# What's wrong with your A3 today?



## bobbeck (Jan 4, 2001)

Not meant as a bitter "I hate my car" thread at all, quite the opposite. Just looking to see what's common, what's not, how you've fixed it, where you got parts, etc... 

1. P0303 Monday (Tune up parts ordered from ECS)
2. LR window sometimes goes up, sometimes doesn't, sometimes the pinch protection gets confused. 
New master switch waiting for install (same happens to the RF but less frequently)
3. Heat shield, down pipe, flex pipe rattle (?) between 2000-3000 RPMs under light acceleration 
(no boost), read something about this in the GTI section. Sounds like marbles in a tin can. 
4. Various interior bits failing (already know this is common) search eBay daily for replacements with
some success.

That's today.

Since June replaced wheel bearings, cam follower, drive belt and tensioner, wiper motor, all the filters (oil twice), tires and new engine mounts. Most just maintenance / wear and tear. 

...and wash day


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## DG7Projects (Jul 12, 2011)

What's wrong with my car? It's DIRTY. :laugh:


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## $$Rich$$ (Oct 14, 2005)

my A3 has now become my wifes DD, since I bought my new GTI, and now the CEL came on, says the radiator fan is jammed 
:what:


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## thenamescolby (Apr 18, 2007)

-Driver's roof rail strip thingy WILL NOT stay in place, I've had 2 shops "attempt" to fix it

-Front bumper desperately needs a respray. The previous owner was in an accident and must have had the front bumper painted at home depot. It's horrible.

-Misc rock chips need to be touched up throughout the car, oh and the side body work isn't the smoothest, needs a little PDR

-small evap leak I CANNOT TRACE! Not the purge valve, probably not the leak detection pump. I run the output test in VCDS-Engine-Basic Settings-block 071 and sometimes it detects a leak, sometimes it doesn't, sometimes it aborts the test procedure altogether. Throws a soft code first, then a CEL. every. single. time. Working on a procedure to test the whole system, but I bet it's my carbon canister.

-It's black, so it's permanently dirty, no matter how many times each week I wash it

-collecting parts for 75k service.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

bobbeck said:


> 4. Various interior bits failing (already know this is common) search eBay daily for replacements with
> some success.



What parts you looking for? 

Today - Hmm what's wrong? I had to fill it up. Haha My problems got fixed yesterday! :thumbup:


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## Alrockaz (Jul 15, 2013)

Front right wheel bearing is bad, due for replacement on Saturday.
Defrost vent rattle, need to find something to wedge in there to stop the rattle.
8mm nut driver bit is stuck somewhere in the center console from the ashtray delete process.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

- Front bumper needs respray.

- Dings and dents everywhere.

- Front driver axle busted.

- Both front air e-level sensors are off; driver side broke at h2o, i think passenger side did as well

- Issue with fueling, hopefully it's the filter being clogged.

- CF Devel lip is chipped/busted in the front center.

- crack on windshield

- driver side city-light isn't working, believe its wiring since i got new bulbs and it still didn't come on

- front sunroof clip is broken

- rear armrest latch is broken

-- car is too slow


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## ceese (Jul 2, 2011)

missing a supercharger


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## Mici (Aug 22, 2012)

Mine is frozen. The winter wheels look a bit shy. Still have a lot of stuff not finihed in the trunk area, since of lazya$$ owner. :banghead: Sometimes the first gear takeoff is very harsh, and sometimes while slowing down and gear going to 1st I hear a noticeable "clunk" from the rear end. I'm guessing something to do with haldex or the rear differential itself. Service history shows that the oil has been changed not too long a go, but maybe I should go ahead and do this again.. Scary, since of grinding one rear differential of my TT since of it had different size rubber on front and rear axles. The A3 has same size all 4 tho but how could I know what it has previously had.

All this said. I love this car. :heart: It has been high maintenance, I've bought some expensive stuff to make her happy and me stand out a bit when cruising around. Just one thing that really annoys me. While I go around to get some food, I tend to keep an eye for stock A3's, to park next to them and vent my airbags. The problem, the A3SB seems to be a ladycar here in Finland. Those are like second cars here and wifes do use these to get the groceries. Thats not the issue tho. I've seen few times while these ladies have been taking pics of my car and quickly getting back to their own and driving away. The problem is, they can't park. How do I get to the next "free" parking slot while the lovely lady next to me has parked over the line?  I should get some refund for my airbags for this from them... :facepalm:

Thats all. 

-Mici-


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Slowing down to make a left turn where the cars fly out from behind a blind turn at 60+. There's space so I don't have to come to a full stop but just as I'm about to hit the gas and power through... BEEEEP!!! Some warning buzzer starts blaring away and I have to commit to power through the turn and hope the engine doesn't die. Turns out it was just a blown brake light bulb. :facepalm:


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## PeteA3 (Dec 3, 2005)

1. Tires are bad...deciding on replacing them again or taking the opportunity to get new wheels and tires. Sick of spacers...
2. Brakes need to be replaced: Adams rotors ordered + stop-tech pads
3. Drivers armrest cracked: new one ordered
4. Rear wiper bad: new one ordered
5. License plate LED bulb out: new set ordered
6. VF Engineering dog bone mount bushings worn: new set ordered
7. R Fog light glass broke, but light still works...need to order a new one

- LR Window also randomly goes up and down...think its the switch but its not that big of a deal to me.
- I also get the marbles in a can between 2000-3000 RPMs under light acceleration.

This Year: oil changes, new A/C Compressor, new APR HPFP and cam after cam follower failure, and Intake mani cleaned.

And the thing that is most annoying: On a hot day my NAV DVD is unreadable. I have to take it out and let it cool off...

And of course...its dirty


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## bobbeck (Jan 4, 2001)

Ponto said:


> What parts you looking


Passenger side center console grab handle. I plastidipped mine as a temp fix for peeling

Armrest (or armrest delete option) 

Rear sunshade clip


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

Thinking about getting a the custom lettering," lol [ bump!":










Where's the point? At least it matches my license plate now 










Recently had the rear brake/rotors, spark plugs, and the thermostat replaced. Normal right


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## bobbeck (Jan 4, 2001)

PeteA3 said:


> - I also get the marbles in a can between 2000-3000 RPMs under light acceleration.


Has your car always done this? Mine seemed to start when my engine mounts started to go south (coincidence or not). My indie pointed me to read up on the GTI forum about this problem, not so many solutions.


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## PeteA3 (Dec 3, 2005)

No it hasn't always done it...so I did check my mounts and they are fine. I am replacing the dog bone mount bushings but I am sure this is not the cause of the rattle. I also was thinking it might be a heat shield loose but haven't checked...or maybe the down pipe mount, which to me always looks misaligned or malformed. Not sure what it is, just one of those annoying things you get used to I guess with time...


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

Coolant leak


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## Cajetan (Feb 1, 2012)

That headlight leveling warning light has come on a couple times recently. 

I had the 25k KM service at the beginning of summer and the next service isn't far off already after a summer of road trips.

Oh yeah, those road trips yielded 3 chips in the hood.

FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF


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## thenamescolby (Apr 18, 2007)

PeteA3 said:


> No it hasn't always done it...so I did check my mounts and they are fine. I am replacing the dog bone mount bushings but I am sure this is not the cause of the rattle. I also was thinking it might be a heat shield loose but haven't checked...or maybe the down pipe mount, which to me always looks misaligned or malformed. Not sure what it is, just one of those annoying things you get used to I guess with time...


check all the pulleys and the tensioner in your accessory belt system.


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## Rathroe (Dec 13, 2011)

Intake Manifold Runner Flaps are broken. I need a new intake manifold :banghead::banghead:


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

Low speed pop/clunk has returned to the front of the car, even with the Tyrolsport kit in place 

Guess I'll need to get the car up in the air and check my subframe bolts.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

TBomb said:


> Low speed pop/clunk has returned to the front of the car, even with the Tyrolsport kit in place
> 
> Guess I'll need to get the car up in the air and check my subframe bolts.


Maybe try to get some lube grease up into the strut mounts?


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## kharma (Jan 2, 2004)

Need to epoxy or replace broken drivers side headlight leveling sensor arm 
Broken drivers visor clip
Both seat backs coming off
Drivers door seal
Thule fairing wing needs new connectors


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## 06A3Stage2 (Mar 19, 2012)

Fun Stuff:
1) I need to install meth/hpfp and get it re-tuned 
2) Passenger side bumper fitment is horrible due to losing the passenger side bumper tabs when getting stuck in the winter, need s3 or smooth s-line bumper in my life
3) Needs a good detail before she's parked for the winter (need to get my mk1 rabbit winter ready)

Not So Fun Stuff:
1) AC compressor is shot, parts on the way
2) Reverse lights don't work (switch on top of the trans needs replacing I believe)
3) Hit a nasty bump and ripped the wires going to my oil temp/level/pressure sensor, replaced sensor/resoldered wires and reset the car via vagcom but the oil sensor light on the dash won't go away, some days it's gone and the next day its back. 
4) ESP is always activated, the switch won't turn it off so I can have fun (unsure of issue as of yet). Happened after #3 occured so that may have something to do with it?


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

06A3Stage2 said:


> 1) AC compressor is shot, parts on the way


What parts? Where from? DIY?


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## VW KEVIN G (Oct 26, 2000)

Check engine light comes on for "bank 1 lean". After reseting the light it doesn't come on right away. Could take a few days. At least I cleared it long enough to pass e check.
Interior is in need of a good going over with new parts. broken ashtray, cupholder is disintegrated, softouch parts are worn, etc. 
Previous owner cut up the plastic panel that is in front of the hatch. Now the rear carpet falls into the spare tire well. Oh, spare tire looks like it was curbed. The sidewall is shredded!
Steering wheel is disintegrating. Did the previous owner wash his hands in acid every day??
Various, dings, scratches, rust spots.
AC doesn't work.
HVAC fan or something affected by the fan makes an intermittent rattling.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Rust. After every winter, I check all of my cars and have them professionally detailed. I am also very careful to thoroughly rinse the car and underbody, even if I can't get in a proper wash, particularly after driving on snow. Somehow, my rear lower control arm now has rust along the upper edges (due to paint chipping) as well as the driveshaft flange where it connects to the rear diff. :banghead: Pretty sure this was because I got lazy about it over the summer. 

Today, I got under the car and scrubbed with a wire brush and some WD-40. The rear LCAs are easy enough, but for the driveshaft, I am contemplating removing the 3 bolts, covering the rest of the underbody, and taping it off, then painting with some VHT Rust convertor. Not sure if it will work, but I think it's worth a shot. the alternative is removing the entire rear diff, the catback, and the driveshaft so I can wire wheel it and paint it proper.

If anyone has ever used the VHT rust convertor, and knows anything about it, good or bad, I'd appreciate the advice.


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## JaxACR (Dec 6, 2007)

Just did oil change, DSG service, fuel filter, and brakes (pads, rotors, braided steel lines, Motul fluid, Boxster front calipers, and rebuilt my stock rears.) Going on this week: new O2 sensor, HPFP stud kit, and CV boots on both axles.

Spotted the torn outer boots while doing my brakes, both were fine 5k ago at my last oil change. No clicking yet and very little grease visible in the wheel wells, so I think I caught it soon enough that I don't need to replace the joint/axle. Going to go ahead and do inner boots while I'm there as cheap preventative maintenance (and with over 100k it couldn't hurt to get some new grease in there.) Besides that, I've got a "whoosh whoosh" noise that's speed related, was hoping that it was just the old pads or rotors, but now I'm thinking wheel hub.

Both rear windows act wonky intermittently as others have stated, headliner is sagging, driver side door armrest has a hole worn in it where my elbow sits, and of course I've got the usual assortment of paint chips and dings. Oh and I need to clean my intake valves.



npace said:


> If anyone has ever used the VHT rust convertor, and knows anything about it, good or bad, I'd appreciate the advice.


A buddy of mine used this on some rusty spots on the body panels of an old BMW. It doesn't look pretty, but it seemed to hold up well, he sprayed the spots and drove it for several months without painting over it, none of the rust returned. Granted we don't we snow here, but we're near the ocean and see fairly salty air. Never got to see what it looks like with paint over it as the car got totaled before it was finished.


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## Grey D (Mar 3, 2009)

- Coolant leak
- Need to do an oil change
- Need new rotors and pads, will do lines and fluid as well
- Exhaust hangar is squeaking
- Startup motor has been chirping for two years, found the DIY but haven't had time yet
- Front coils are too high
- My stock 06 wheels are peeling. Rear tires are getting closed to done, trying to hold off so I can just get new wheels and tires
- Due for a carbon cleaning? I'll wait until I really mod the motor
- Front bumper needs a respray, was backed into a few winters ago and the shop that replaced the bumper primed it for a metal bumper and the whole thing is peeling all over 
- Dings and scratches galore
- Sent my Escort Redline in because the speaker went bad, waiting for that.
- Interior bits all over, particularly arm rests and opensky clips.
- iPod dock is broken, currently have my Visioo with paper jammed underneath it to make the connection work.
- Getting tired of my ghetto cat-delete. Waiting to order the 034 downpipe 
- One of LED license plate bulbs doesn't fit right, and my trunk-light LED flickers and wont stay on.

Sigh.


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## S1iver (Jan 7, 2009)

This thread is making me start to regret looking for an A3, is there no silver lining here? lol


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

S1iver said:


> This thread is making me start to regret looking for an A3, is there no silver lining here? lol


You could start a thread like this in any car forum. And yes, there's a silver lining: even with all the potential repairs, the A3 will always be worth it.

Most of problems people are listing here are ones that your every-day person would ignore on their car:
Rear wiper stopped working? **** it. 
Coolant leak? Just keep adding some coolant. 
Rust? All my cars have been rusty. 
Rattles, creaks, squeaks? "That's normal car sounds!" (quoting my gf on that one).


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

S1iver said:


> This thread is making me start to regret looking for an A3, is there no silver lining here? lol


Exactly what BeeAlk Said, We are very particular about our cars and will complain/fix the smallest issue. 

Both this car and my Gti were great, did I spend more money fixing it than most? Of couse. But the Gti lasted me for ever and it is still running great with its new owner. 

Silver Lining though - They are a unique car that not many people have, they don't look dated even after being released 7 years ago. I think mine is quite comfortable and great on long highway drives. They are German cars, so of course parts are more expensive. But I find the fit and finish on my A3 to be quite good. 

Thats my short opinion. I have had my A3 for a year now and still love it. Especially when people ask me what it is lol.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

BeeAlk said:


> You could start a thread like this in any car forum. And yes, there's a silver lining: even with all the potential repairs, the A3 will always be worth it.
> 
> Most of problems people are listing here are ones that your every-day person would ignore on their car:
> Rear wiper stopped working? **** it.
> ...


Nah, getting the engine replaced :laugh:


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

crew219 said:


> Nah, getting the engine replaced :laugh:


Actually i just went with a new Radiator... Well a certain Mini van bumper helped me get that replaced. :banghead:


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## ceese (Jul 2, 2011)

Driver side camber plate bearing is bad and needs to be replaced.


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## S1iver (Jan 7, 2009)

Ponto said:


> Exactly what BeeAlk Said, We are very particular about our cars and will complain/fix the smallest issue.
> 
> Both this car and my Gti were great, did I spend more money fixing it than most? Of couse. But the Gti lasted me for ever and it is still running great with its new owner.
> 
> ...


This is exactly what I wanted to hear! Now, off to try and find my future MY09 3.2Q w/Magnetic Ride Control!


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

ceese said:


> Driver side camber plate bearing is bad and needs to be replaced.


Which company did you go with?


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## ceese (Jul 2, 2011)

crew219 said:


> Which company did you go with?


GC but they are a great company and are working with me to correct it since both passenger and driver side failed way sooner than they should have. I think it's in part due to running the Ohlins without tender springs which is what GC recommended to me. The bearing is designed to take the weight of the entire car and after I hit a bump followed by a dip (such as a bad road tie) the car crashes down on the springs. I just installed 150lb tenders a week ago and while it can still be loud and hard jolt its no where near as bad as it was without them. They deffinitely soften the drop. On the other hand it's entirely possible I just got a couple bad bearings.

If I had it to do my camber adjustment mod over again. I'd go with the 034 strut mounts and the TT control arm mod with the adjustable ball joints since the camber plate bearings will eventually start to fail again even after they are repaired and while rubber strut mounts and control arm bushings will fail they should last a lot longer and make for a slightly more comfortable ride (ie. less noise and vibration).


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## DG7Projects (Jul 12, 2011)

Both Xenon headlights stopped working. :banghead:

Replaced bulbs less than 8,000 miles ago & barely used the headlights (I drive during the daytime) 

I have a feeling it's the ballasts that need replacing. Sucks, I'm only at 55K miles.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Let's see..

Driver's door window module is shot.
Rear driver's-side door interior handle doesn't open the door.
The driver's door pull has developed a big crack in it where your elbow rests. Both driver's and passenger's door pulls are snapped.
Both sunroof latches are broken.
Driver's side sun-visor hinge is broken.
Rear cupholder latch is broken.

And finally: the car wash trashed my body work. I lost a bumper corner lens and a couple tabs on my front bumper cover are broken so the whole thing sags a good 1/2" on the passenger side now. Not a good week for my car!


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

BeeAlk said:


> Let's see..
> 
> And finally: the car wash trashed my body work. I lost a bumper corner lens and a couple tabs on my front bumper cover are broken so the whole thing sags a good 1/2" on the passenger side now. Not a good week for my car!


And this is why I never take any of my car's through any sort of auto wash.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Ponto said:


> And this is why I never take any of my car's through any sort of auto wash.


x2

Coming up on 8 year anniversary of owning my car and never ran it through an auto wash. I'm just now reaching a point where there's some very fine "spiderwebbing" that I will need to polish out.


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

did i tell you guys that my drivers side door wiring harness had broken wires and audi took care of it out of warranty FOC?


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## dhinez (Jul 24, 2013)

This










Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Ponto said:


> And this is why I never take any of my car's through any sort of auto wash.





MisterJJ said:


> x2
> 
> Coming up on 8 year anniversary of owning my car and never ran it through an auto wash. I'm just now reaching a point where there's some very fine "spiderwebbing" that I will need to polish out.


Man, wish I could say the same. I never took any of my cars to an auto wash but the new living situation doesn't allow for me to wash it myself. And I took it to get hand washed ($50) and they put more swirls in it than cinnamon toast crunch. I can't find a place that hand washes (and knows what theyre doing) that doesn't cost a fortune.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

dhinez said:


> This
> 
> Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


Ouch. What happened? Deer?


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

BeeAlk said:


> Man, wish I could say the same. I never took any of my cars to an auto wash but the new living situation doesn't allow for me to wash it myself. And I took it to get hand washed ($50) and they put more swirls in it than cinnamon toast crunch. I can't find a place that hand washes (and knows what theyre doing) that doesn't cost a fortune.


There are no wand wash bays around you?? I will always do the wand wash until I can manage a hand wash ( I live in a condo )


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## dhinez (Jul 24, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> Ouch. What happened? Deer?


Unfortunately. I was heading back home when it ran in front of me. 

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Ponto said:


> There are no wand wash bays around you?? I will always do the wand wash until I can manage a hand wash ( I live in a condo )


I've heard those are worse than the brushed kind..In order for them to clean a car without being "touched" the chemicals are very potent.. potent enough to eat away at the finish (not only the paint but trim and seals as well). I guess I'm not sure how true this is - but I have had bad experience with them. I had my old mustang in one and the wheel cleaner detergent (which is supposed to stay off the paint) started leaking from the hose joint in the ceiling, leaking all over the roof of my car ---> clear coat was ruined.



dhinez said:


> Unfortunately. I was heading back home when it ran in front of me.
> 
> Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


Just saw your other post. GL with the rebuild :/


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Wheel cleaner is pretty strong stuff. But I've never had an issued with wand wash bays. And neve. Heard if this paint eating soap. If anything their soap sucks. This being said it does get the car clean over the winter months. Well clean enough. 


Sent from my Igloo


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## NYCameron (Nov 17, 2010)

my washer fluid level warning light came on-filled up the tank and it still didn't go away. Tried clearing the code in VAG-COM and it's still there. Kind of convinced that my sensor is broke. Anyone have any experience changing their washer fluid sensor?


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

Grey D said:


> - Coolant leak
> - Need to do an oil change
> - Need new rotors and pads, will do lines and fluid as well
> - Exhaust hangar is squeaking
> ...


Hi there, my startup motor chirps whenever I startup, it even start up hadly with the chirping noise 
wheres the DIY writeup ?? thanks


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## yowzaa (Jul 31, 2007)

*noisy wheel bearing*

 My own fault for not torquing the axle bolt according to the proper procedures!

...replacement on its way before the end of week 



...UPDATE: After replacing the front passenger bearing, and not eliminating the noise, I purchased and installed both _rear_ bearings. _This_ solved the noise.
I was mistaken when I thought that my procedure for torquing the front axle nut caused a failure.
Hopefully I'll get another 70k out of these bearings!


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## DLV (Dec 10, 2012)

- One of LED license plate bulbs doesn't fit right, and my *trunk-light LED flickers and wont stay on*.


I get the same: trunk light briefly flickers right when I click the latch and then it goes out. Were you able to sort it out?


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## TOYPAJ (Sep 30, 2012)

Needs new coil packs
Oil change this weekend
Rear wheel bearings need to be replaced
Cam follower 
N80 valve
Alignment

fuhhh


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## MillerMav (Sep 7, 2012)

Some kind of weird DSG fluid leak from the cap area. I noticed the leak about 3 weeks ago and did the service about 8 months ago with no issues, now this all of a sudden. I removed the fill cap and filter; top filled about 100mL's just to replace what may had dripped out and to improve shifting. I tighten'd the filter cap down to 15ftlbs and its still leaking.......Ugh. I gave the cap a bit of a snug and it seems as though it is still leaking. I couldn't find anything wrong with the cap and I replaced the o-ring during service. I am at a loss.......

Other than that while I was investigating the leak I noticed my passenger inner CV boot is ripped so that's awesome and my rear sunshade has never closed!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

It doesn't fly. Seriously. When I was a kid, we were all going to have flying cars by the year 2000, in cities where roads were "layered" in the air. The jetsons and back to the future are to blame for this. I want my flying car!


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

MillerMav said:


> Some kind of weird DSG fluid leak from the cap area. I noticed the leak about 3 weeks ago and did the service about 8 months ago with no issues, now this all of a sudden. I removed the fill cap and filter; top filled about 100mL's just to replace what may had dripped out and to improve shifting. I tighten'd the filter cap down to 15ftlbs and its still leaking.......Ugh. I gave the cap a bit of a snug and it seems as though it is still leaking. I couldn't find anything wrong with the cap and I replaced the o-ring during service. I am at a loss.......
> 
> Other than that while I was investigating the leak I noticed my passenger inner CV boot is ripped so that's awesome and my rear sunshade has never closed!


Man, my DSG is leaking from the drain plug. Frustrating..


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

DLV said:


> - One of LED license plate bulbs doesn't fit right, and my *trunk-light LED flickers and wont stay on*.
> 
> 
> I get the same: trunk light briefly flickers right when I click the latch and then it goes out. Were you able to sort it out?


Same, and I have dual trunk lights. Wonder what's wrong. It worked when I first installed them. Then it did the flickering. And once in a blue moon, it'll work, but like once or twice only. Then back to flickering. :banghead:


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

MillerMav said:


> Some kind of weird DSG fluid leak from the cap area.


I know that the 2.0t often gets a leak on the engine housing that sticks out over the tranny and it drips down there, making it look like the filter cap is leaking. Not sure if the 3.2 has something similar.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

MisterJJ said:


> I know that the 2.0t often gets a leak on the engine housing that sticks out over the tranny and it drips down there, making it look like the filter cap is leaking. Not sure if the 3.2 has something similar.


Do you know if there would be any warning light tripped if the DSG fluid gets too low (or too hot because of less volume) before any damage were to happen?

I don't want to have to drain my tranny in order to put a new crush washer on the drain bolt..


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

MisterJJ said:


> I know that the 2.0t often gets a leak on the engine housing that sticks out over the tranny and it drips down there, making it look like the filter cap is leaking. Not sure if the 3.2 has something similar.


Do you know if there would be any warning light tripped if the DSG fluid gets too low (or too hot because of less volume) before any damage were to happen?

I don't want to have to drain my tranny in order to put a new crush washer on the drain bolt.. 

Unless.. does the snorkel thing go above the fluid level when the car is running?? Would it not drain out if I removed the plug while running (if that's even possible)? I'm not terribly familiar with these DSGs..


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

I actually saw an aluminum cap for sale somewhere... They stated that the filler cap have been known to actually crack.


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## JaxACR (Dec 6, 2007)

Ponto said:


> I actually saw an aluminum cap for sale somewhere... They stated that the filler cap have been known to actually crack.


This?

http://www.uspmotorsports.com/DSG-Cool-Flow-Aluminum-Filter-Housing.html


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

JaxACR said:


> This?
> 
> http://www.uspmotorsports.com/DSG-Cool-Flow-Aluminum-Filter-Housing.html


YUP


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

BeeAlk said:


> Do you know if there would be any warning light tripped if the DSG fluid gets too low (or too hot because of less volume) before any damage were to happen?


I have assumed as much, but have no proof.



BeeAlk said:


> I don't want to have to drain my tranny in order to put a new crush washer on the drain bolt..
> 
> Unless.. does the snorkel thing go above the fluid level when the car is running?? Would it not drain out if I removed the plug while running (if that's even possible)? I'm not terribly familiar with these DSGs..


This is how the level should work:
Engine not running: Fluid level above snorkel.
Engine running, tranny cold: Fluid level below snorkel.
Engine running, tranny at specified temp: Fluid right at level of snorkel.

So... You should be able to start the car and remove the drain plug safely, as long as the tranny does not heat up, which takes a few minutes. However, the amount of fluid in the snorkel will drain out. Also, the snorkel may be loose inside and may leak so you should be ready to snug up the snorkel as soon as you get the drain plug off.


----------



## bobbeck (Jan 4, 2001)

cylinder head is off today. otherwise it's fine.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

MisterJJ said:


> I have assumed as much, but have no proof.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


So then, wouldn't it be wise of me to add a bit of oil and when the DSG is up to temp it'll spew out the excess over the snorkel? Otherwise I wouldn't be able to tell if the level is low, right?


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

JaxACR said:


> This?
> 
> http://www.uspmotorsports.com/DSG-Cool-Flow-Aluminum-Filter-Housing.html


Someone set up a famiry purchase :thumbup:


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Rock in my rear brake shield... fck that squeals like a banshee!


----------



## AckermanA3 (May 16, 2010)

Rust

Waiting on audi to get back to me since end of july

**this was suppose to be taken care of a couple years ago, i guess the dealership just decided to put the votex kit on rust and the hell with it, no wonder it peeled off!**


----------



## niteryder (May 25, 2007)

Well, lets see.

I replaced this today:
Intake cam
fuel pump cam follower
cam chain tensioner
tensioner housing (effen a!)
valve cover gasket
oil filter
oil filter canister
oil
spark plugs
coil packs (all of them)
outer cv boot
dsg filter
dsg fluid
manifold runner switch


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

niteryder said:


> Well, lets see.
> 
> I replaced this today:
> Intake cam
> ...


That's aggressive, I like it! I can't even manage to do more than change the oil before my SO begins to hound me about being in the garage too long :facepalm:


----------



## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

whats the green stuff? no gasket or with gasket?


----------



## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

SilverSquirrel said:


> whats the green stuff? no gasket or with gasket?


Cam cage sealant. Looks like he used a bit much.


----------



## toadham (May 17, 2013)

It's wet.


----------



## toadham (May 17, 2013)

Non-stop issues lately!


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

toadham said:


> Non-stop issues lately!


Better just get rid of it and send me that white cluster........ :thumbup:


----------



## Mici (Aug 22, 2012)

It has started to grow some white hair over the night. :what:










-Mici-


----------



## kennysdubbin (Jan 8, 2008)

-Crack in drivers door armrest wich is driving me insane :banghead:
-slight rattle around 3000rpm
-cold mornings the car does not seem to want to go into second until fully warmed and has me slightly stumped haven't had time to dig into it yet

Otherwise I love my A3


----------



## VW KEVIN G (Oct 26, 2000)

Found an oil leak around the oil pan I think. Coming from the front side.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

kennysdubbin said:


> -Crack in drivers door armrest wich is driving me insane :banghead:


Same here. It's killing me.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Car backfires when I go WOT.

Also, an interesting issue. Whenever I park my car at work (in a garage, 3 floors below ground level), 99% of the time the car will not turn over when starting the first time. I most likely have to give it some gas to start. Whenever I park anywhere else, car starts w/o extra gas and on the first time. :screwy:


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

krazyboi said:


> Car backfires when I go WOT.
> 
> Also, an interesting issue. Whenever I park my car at work (in a garage, 3 floors below ground level), 99% of the time the car will not turn over when starting the first time. I most likely have to give it some gas to start. Whenever I park anywhere else, car starts w/o extra gas and on the first time. :screwy:


Condensation messing with the door sensor causing it not to prime the pump when opened?


----------



## DG7Projects (Jul 12, 2011)

My car needs new strut mounts. Doing that on Thursday.


----------



## Alrockaz (Jul 15, 2013)

Aftermarket EMPI CV axle died last night after two months in service:banghead:. Looks like it failed on the inner part by the flange, guessing it kept rotating despite the tire being planted. Boot's torn, rides a bit rough. Will replace it under warranty and if the second part fails then I'll likely go back to OEM.

Also think my thermostat is stuck open. Not a big deal and not anxious to tackle that job as it looks like a PITA.


----------



## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

DG7Projects said:


> My car needs new strut mounts. Doing that on Thursday.


which ones didya get?


----------



## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

Finally snapped center arm console lid thing... :banghead:

Also have issues with car starting after sitting for a few hours, replaced battery last winter. It's cold out (-12 Celsius/10 Fahrenheit), so I'm not sure if it's that... real test will be when it gets to -20 later this week.

Passenger front seat starting to tear like the driver side, kind of sad....


----------



## DG7Projects (Jul 12, 2011)

SilverSquirrel said:


> which ones didya get?


Surprisingly, my strut mounts were fine & the culprit was my strut coming loose. Removed, inspected, re-installed, tightened, and everything seems to be fine. No more clunking.


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Ponto said:


> Better just get rid of it and send me that white cluster........ :thumbup:


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-A...ument-Cluster-Clocks-8P0920951S-/181272958097

Actually... not bad price in the UK for them.... 

RS3 would be amazing, but thats about 800 bucks.


----------



## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

DG7Projects said:


> Surprisingly, my strut mounts were fine & the culprit was my strut coming loose. Removed, inspected, re-installed, tightened, and everything seems to be fine. No more clunking.


 :thumbup::beer:


----------



## L_A_456 (Apr 8, 2011)

have to figure out why when i hit large bumps i get the adaptive headlight warning. where some coolant went (usually at the max level but dropped to just barely below the minimum level) with this past week of extreme cold and wind chill, with no leaks anywhere inside the car or outside.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

L_A_456 said:


> have to figure out why when i hit large bumps i get the adaptive headlight warning. where some coolant went (usually at the max level but dropped to just barely below the minimum level) with this past week of extreme cold and wind chill, with no leaks anywhere inside the car or outside.


G12 shrinks a lot at cold temps.


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

BeeAlk said:


> G12 shrinks a lot at cold temps.


I am going to have to look at this. haha I leave my nice heated garage and drive out into -40... So coolant will be warm, but after work I might have to give my level a look.


----------



## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

BeeAlk said:


> G12 shrinks a lot at cold temps.


wasnt that a sienfeld episode?

I know mine shrinks when it gets cold.


----------



## niteryder (May 25, 2007)




----------



## daniel.ramirez (Nov 24, 2001)

seatbelt warning ligth started to blink somehow randomly, I guess the sensor switch is going or it could be a cabling issue...


----------



## BalloFruit (Sep 25, 2006)

Mine threw a check engine light and shutdown into safe mode due to a P0321 code for a faulty crankshaft speed sensor in the middle of nowhere NC. $180 part and a couple hours of labor required to diagnose and replace... Ugh.


----------



## daniel.ramirez (Nov 24, 2001)

seatbelt warning ligth started to blink somehow randomly, I guess the sensor switch is going or it could be a cabling issue...


----------



## ceese (Jul 2, 2011)

My Canada light went on and I'm running three winter wheels and one summer wheel because my wrench broke when I was changing out my wheels.:banghead:


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

ceese said:


> My *Canada light* went on and I'm running three winter wheels and one summer wheel because my wrench broke when I was changing out my wheels.:banghead:


lol

But that sucks man... 3 out of 4 ain't bad though.


----------



## MrsYareka (Dec 29, 2012)

Noticed the passenger turn signal light in the mirror isn't working. Noticed it was really dim a few weeks ago and not its not working at all. Gotta do some research to find a fix. I hope I don't have to replace the whole mirror.... I am hoping it is a simple fix.

Oh, and after I rear ended someone today at a stoplight, my front grill is cracked right above the filler plate. Crazy enough, the filler plate is fine, no scratches or anything. Might be able to pop the grill back into place until I can order a replacement. I swear the light was green.... the car in front just didn't want to go :banghead:


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Open sky quit working today. Nothing happens when I hit the switch, no sounds, no sign of life at all. Fuse was good. No clue what's going on here. I hope it's not a costly fix because I use the Open Sky pretty regularly. 

Driver's window is still ****ed too.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

niteryder said:


> Well, lets see.
> 
> I replaced this today:
> cam chain tensioner
> tensioner housing (effen a!)


Why'd you have to change yours out? I have suspicion mine might be failing, but my VW guru says it sounds perfectly normal..


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

A/C keeps getting louder and louder. I've got the parts but it's supposed to be in the 80's this week so I put off working on it again.


----------



## Tjtalan (Jan 19, 2013)

Ok, I serviced the DSG in my A3 Two Months ago. Used one of the vieco filters and the seal that comes with it. Filter housing starts to leak, ok new VAG housing and seal. I think its still leaking, or I think the cooler may be the culprit. Has anyone had the DSG cooler seals leek?


----------



## K092084 (Dec 6, 2006)

Replaced my purge valve trying to troubleshoot the P2404 check engine light error code I am getting only to notice a vacuum hose has a small hole in it from somewhere, has been suspected to be a rodent
Hoping replacing the hose will fix the check engine light, unless of course someone has a better idea of what would be causing me the P2404 error.


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Tjtalan said:


> Ok, I serviced the DSG in my A3 Two Months ago. Used one of the vieco filters and the seal that comes with it. Filter housing starts to leak, ok new VAG housing and seal. I think its still leaking, or I think the cooler may be the culprit. Has anyone had the DSG cooler seals leek?


I'm willing to bet that the filter housing is not leaking. Check for oil leaking from the bottom side of the housing attached to the cylinder head, which is above the filter housing.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

K092084 said:


> Replaced my purge valve trying to troubleshoot the P2404 check engine light error code I am getting only to notice a vacuum hose has a small hole in it from somewhere, has been suspected to be a rodent
> Hoping replacing the hose will fix the check engine light, unless of course someone has a better idea of what would be causing me the P2404 error.


I'm wiling to bet that right there would trigger the CEL.. And it definitely looks like rodent tooth marks. Time to set up some bait in your garage before they mess up something more important.


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

She's got a bad ticker you see....


Still no word


----------



## K092084 (Dec 6, 2006)

BeeAlk said:


> I'm wiling to bet that right there would trigger the CEL.. And it definitely looks like rodent tooth marks. Time to set up some bait in your garage before they mess up something more important.


sadly no garage, just a car port. 

Going to do what another member suggested and get an electronic rodent repellent that you can hook to the car battery. 

Need to stop being lazy and order the replacement hose.


----------



## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

K092084 said:


> sadly no garage, just a car port.
> 
> Going to do what another member suggested and get an electronic rodent repellent that you can hook to the car battery.
> 
> Need to stop being lazy and order the replacement hose.


or a cat.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

I think I have a power issue, well, I'm sure I do.

I'm on my 2nd (or maybe 3rd) new battery in about a year time span. My first thought is its something with my air suspension installation. 

My second thought is possibly all my LED lights. When running VCDS, I get lots of electrical shorts on my LED panels (doors, trunk, DRL). -- Could this really cause my battery to die quickly?


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

krazyboi said:


> I think I have a power issue, well, I'm sure I do.
> 
> I'm on my 2nd (or maybe 3rd) new battery in about a year time span. My first thought is its something with my air suspension installation.
> 
> My second thought is possibly all my LED lights. When running VCDS, I get lots of electrical shorts on my LED panels (doors, trunk, DRL). -- Could this really cause my battery to die quickly?


If it's a ground fault or short possibly?


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Ponto said:


> If it's a ground fault or short possibly?


So, who else that has done LED puddle lights and dual trunk (that has vag'ed their car) does not have issues?


----------



## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

krazyboi said:


> So, who else that has done LED puddle lights and dual trunk (that has vag'ed their car) does not have issues?


I've done my puddle lights no issues here. I have an error but I don't remember what it says. My car is at the body shop probably for two weeks. When I get it back I'll scan it. Did you install the wires right? I know in the instructions I had a different pin or something in the rear doors. Also do the lights go off when you close the door?


----------



## davis_449 (Apr 6, 2011)

This isn't new today, but this recent rain we had come through really made the fact that my rear window wiper fluid won't flow. Taking this ****er to the dealer next week.


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

davis_449 said:


> This isn't new today, but this recent rain we had come through really made the fact that my rear window wiper fluid won't flow. Taking this ****er to the dealer next week.


Mine had that issues as well. I never use it though. Probably doing a delete anyways.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

davis_449 said:


> This isn't new today, but this recent rain we had come through really made the fact that my rear window wiper fluid won't flow. Taking this ****er to the dealer next week.


Weird, mine just shoots water/meth.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

neu318 said:


> I've done my puddle lights no issues here. I have an error but I don't remember what it says. My car is at the body shop probably for two weeks. When I get it back I'll scan it. Did you install the wires right? I know in the instructions I had a different pin or something in the rear doors. Also do the lights go off when you close the door?


Just checked the doors and yes, they turn off when the door closes :banghead:


----------



## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

krazyboi said:


> I think I have a power issue, well, I'm sure I do.
> 
> I'm on my 2nd (or maybe 3rd) new battery in about a year time span. My first thought is its something with my air suspension installation.
> 
> My second thought is possibly all my LED lights. When running VCDS, I get lots of electrical shorts on my LED panels (doors, trunk, DRL). -- Could this really cause my battery to die quickly?


Buy/borrow a multimeter, unhook the negative lead from the battery, and measure amps between the negative post on the battery and the negative lead from the car. Start pulling fuses one at a time in order of what you suspect might be the issue to narrow it down.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

TBomb said:


> Buy/borrow a multimeter, unhook the negative lead from the battery, and measure amps between the negative post on the battery and the negative lead from the car. Start pulling fuses one at a time in order of what you suspect might be the issue to narrow it down.


Sounds time consuming 


Thanks.


----------



## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

krazyboi said:


> Sounds time consuming
> 
> 
> Thanks.


Haha nah, it's not too bad. I am assuming you have a fused connection for your air ride equipment, and I'm sure there is a fuse for the interior lighting. I'd start with those two. If you have a meter or can get one easily (you can buy a cheap one at Harbor Freight that will get the job done for $5) then the rest is a piece of cake. :thumbup:


----------



## davis_449 (Apr 6, 2011)

Ponto said:


> Mine had that issues as well. I never use it though. Probably doing a delete anyways.


I refuse to do that. People keep telling me to do it and I keep telling them to get ****ed. I like my rear wiper, I think it looks fine on the car, and I REALLY like the rear visibility it provides me while doing 20 MPH over everyone else on the freeway in the rain. My buddy with his 996 911 Turbo's got my back...he ain't gettin' rid of his either.:thumbup::laugh:



> Weird, mine just shoots water/meth.


Oh, **** off! :laugh:


----------



## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

davis_449 said:


> I refuse to do that. People keep telling me to do it and I keep telling them to get ****ed. I like my rear wiper, I think it looks fine on the car, and I REALLY like the rear visibility it provides me while doing 20 MPH over everyone else on the freeway in the rain. My buddy with his 996 911 Turbo's got my back...he ain't gettin' rid of his either.:thumbup::laugh:
> 
> 
> Oh, **** off! :laugh:


or can waste ur money get Q5 wiper


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

davis_449 said:


> I refuse to do that. People keep telling me to do it and I keep telling them to get ****ed. I like my rear wiper, I think it looks fine on the car, and *I REALLY like the rear visibility* it provides me while doing 20 MPH over everyone else on the freeway in the rain. My buddy with his 996 911 Turbo's got my back...he ain't gettin' rid of his either.:thumbup::laugh:
> 
> 
> Oh, **** off! :laugh:


You drive on the freeway in reverse? :laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:

Impressive.


----------



## VW KEVIN G (Oct 26, 2000)

I continue to get a slight intermittent steering wheel jerk which seems to come from the driver's side. It happens at highway speeds and is very slight yet unnerving at the same time. The first time I noticed it was when the roads were snow covered and the symptom was worse. It almost feels as if something like a tie rod is shot and the wheel is loose. I jacked it up and grabbed the wheel and tried to shake it but there was no noticeable play. I took it to the dealer and they found nothing except for worn rear trailing arm bushings, which I had them replace.
I have a clicking cv joint on the driver's side. Could this cause a steering wheel jerk?


----------



## davis_449 (Apr 6, 2011)

Ponto said:


> You drive on the freeway in reverse? :laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:
> 
> Impressive.


You gotta know if you have enough room to cut between cars. Side mirrors aren't enough for me.


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

davis_449 said:


> You gotta know if you have enough room to cut between cars. Side mirrors aren't enough for me.


Haha clearly traffic is tighter down there. I never have to worry about having enough room. And well shoulder check bro. 

Sent from my Igloo


----------



## AckermanA3 (May 16, 2010)

Rust, always rust. Been waiting on Audi to approve warranty since end of July.

Stereo, Chinese double din not working properly. Pulled it out today and put my old alpine in... Found there was an alternate harness for aftermarket amps lol. 

Oil catch can was full

Thermostat on its way out, pia to replace, been putting it off.

Needs an oil change and a wash


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Yesterday I did DSG basic settings with vag com on my car to show someone else how to do it.. then this morning I was greeted with my very first MIL.



> 2 Faults Found:
> 012555 - Low Pressure Fuel regulation
> P310B - 004 - Fuel Pressure Outside Specification - Intermittent
> Freeze Frame:
> ...


Thinking back, about a month ago I did DSG basic settings for the first time and I got the same codes.. only that time it didn't trip the MIL..

Anyone have experience with these codes? Should I just clear it and see if it returns and not worry?


----------



## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

BeeAlk said:


> Yesterday I did DSG basic settings with vag com on my car to show someone else how to do it.. then this morning I was greeted with my very first MIL.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Bad thrust sensor on the HPFP and your LPFP will probably start dying soon. Replace both.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

crew219 said:


> Bad thrust sensor on the HPFP and your LPFP will probably start dying soon. Replace both.


Any way to take some fuel readings to verify this or anything? I'd like to do a more comprehensive diagnosis if possible.. I do have the ross tech cable.

If the code pops up again I'll replace the sensor, if it still pops up after that, LPFP it will be..


----------



## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

BeeAlk said:


> Any way to take some fuel readings to verify this or anything? I'd like to do a more comprehensive diagnosis if possible.. I do have the ross tech cable.
> 
> If the code pops up again I'll replace the sensor, if it still pops up after that, LPFP it will be..


Trust the man. I had the same codes, only I was experiencing fuel cuts while cruising on the freeway. Basically, the thrust sensor on the HPFP goes bad, the ECU thinks the pressure is less than it really is, and it runs the LPFP at 100% to compensate. This basically "burns up" the LPFP, and when it starts to overheat you get fuel cuts like I experienced. You might be able to get by with just changing out the thrust sensor (cheap and easy) or you might have to change the in-tank LPFP (less cheap and less easy, but not a bad job). :thumbup:

http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?5274788-Power-cuts-on-highway&highlight=power


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

TBomb said:


> Trust the man. I had the same codes, only I was experiencing fuel cuts while cruising on the freeway. Basically, the thrust sensor on the HPFP goes bad, the ECU thinks the pressure is less than it really is, and it runs the LPFP at 100% to compensate. This basically "burns up" the LPFP, and when it starts to overheat you get fuel cuts like I experienced. You might be able to get by with just changing out the thrust sensor (cheap and easy) or you might have to change the in-tank LPFP (less cheap and less easy, but not a bad job). :thumbup:
> 
> http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?5274788-Power-cuts-on-highway&highlight=power


Cool. I'll pick up the sensor on Monday while I'm out getting another cam follower. If the code pops up after this I'll replace the pump. Thanks for the link.


----------



## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

BeeAlk said:


> Cool. I'll pick up the sensor on Monday while I'm out getting another cam follower. If the code pops up after this I'll replace the pump. Thanks for the link.


No problem. That's my thread from when I was figuring out what my issue was. I never updated it with a resolution (dick move, I know :laugh but after replacing the sensor and pump I have been good to go :thumbup:


----------



## a4000 (Apr 23, 2009)

Lost all power to driver door, no windows, no door lock, alarm wouldn't arm, car thought door was ajar, interior lights stayed illuminated etc.

Pulled fuse 12 and put back in, problem went away. :banghead:


----------



## t.oorboh! (Feb 11, 2012)

my driver's side door wasn't unlocking for a while. it's now working fine again. random.

ever since i put my winters on it seem like my headlights have been pointing up. i feel like i might be blinding people. 

i regret losing my **** on the service department at the dealer that i bought my car from. they're close to my office so it was convenient to leave my car there and get a ride to work. i told them i was never coming back, so now i have to take my car somewhere much less convenient. 

also that stupid cup holder in the back seat arm rest popped out. i put it back in but every time i lower the arm rest to put something through from the hatch it pops out and lands on the floor. 

what kind of bullcrap design is that? and they're using again in the mqb A3


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

t.oorboh! said:


> i regret losing my **** on the service department at the dealer that i bought my car from. they're close to my office so it was convenient to leave my car there and get a ride to work. i told them i was never coming back, so now i have to take my car somewhere much less convenient.


Why'd you lose your **** on them?


----------



## t.oorboh! (Feb 11, 2012)

one of the brake sensors in the pedal needed to be replaced. 

over the course of a year and 3 visits. i replaced the rear bulbs twice, 1 new battery, had to pay to get the radio recoded and replaced the rear light assembly on one side.

meanwhile, the second time i brought it in i suggested to them that it was the brake sensor. that's when i ended up buying a new light assembly."the brake sensor was fine"

during the third and final visit they finally realised it was the brake sensor. but they couldn't get the part for 2 days. meanwhile i got charged a lot for diagnostics and other crap.

unfortunately for them while i was waiting for my car i decided to talk to a sales guy about trading in my A3. i felt like i had to nag the guy to get me info on the cars he had on the lot. i was customer and basically saying "hey sell me a car" and he basically ignored me. and then as if to get rid of me he offered me $2k for my car. that was a kick in the nuts. 

i was steaming by the time i got my bill. i was pretty civil with the service guy. he was new and all the previous service bull**** wasn't his fault. but i ripped into the manager. via a follow up survey. i ended my rant with something along the lines of "i'm never coming back to your dealership, my next car's going to be a bmw"

i also included some ranting about how no manual and no sportback A3 made audi look like a bunch of appliance manufacturing *******s and that the new corolla would have more personality than the new A3. i copied audi canada on it.

2 days later the manager tried to get in touch with me but i ignored him and didn't return his email.

i don't think they're going to invite me to their annual track day in the spring.

oh ya and on the way home after work i stopped at my local mechanic and he ordered the part and told me to leave the car with him and he'd have it ready in the morning. and he only charged for 30 min of labour


----------



## a4000 (Apr 23, 2009)

a4000 said:


> Lost all power to driver door, no windows, no door lock, alarm wouldn't arm, car thought door was ajar, interior lights stayed illuminated etc.
> 
> Pulled fuse 12 and put back in, problem went away. :banghead:


This happened again this morning? Any ideas? Temporary fix seems to be pulling fuses 12 or 17 (not sure which fixes it). 12 is front doors, 17 is convenience unit ctrl module.


----------



## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

a4000 said:


> This happened again this morning? Any ideas? Temporary fix seems to be pulling fuses 12 or 17 (not sure which fixes it). 12 is front doors, 17 is convenience unit ctrl module.


got a pinched or otherwise f'd up wire harness from the door to the body. see recent thread by tcardio, might be same deal.


----------



## Grey D (Mar 3, 2009)

Woke up this morning, still doesn't have a turbo.


----------



## DG7Projects (Jul 12, 2011)

Code 02234. My adaptive headlights are malfunctioning. :banghead:

Will get them looked at on Wednesday @ Eurowurx.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

My driver's side front window rolled down and refused to go back up. 200 miles from home in the freezing snow. :facepalm:

I'll be replacing my regulator this weekend.


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Update...

Months ago I noticed that my brake pedal wasn't soft anymore in the morning. It would stay soft for only a few hours after stopping so I figure it's a tiny leak in the system and nothing to worry about.

A week ago I got a CEL for EVAP leak and LPFP replacement stopped a "thump" I was getting but the CEL came back.

So yesterday I check vacuum lines a little closer, pulling and twisting on them, looking for cracks or other weaknesses but I found nothing. I checked the vacuum line to the brake booster because someone else reported it being cracked, but the line looked solid. Then I pull the N80 valve and sure enough, it was leaking. I sprayed carb cleaner in it and replaced it. This morning the brake pedal was soft and on the drive to work the CEL went away by itself. :thumbup:


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

MisterJJ said:


> Update...
> 
> Months ago I noticed that my brake pedal wasn't soft anymore in the morning. It would stay soft for only a few hours after stopping so I figure it's a tiny leak in the system and nothing to worry about.


Umm we are talking about cars here right?


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## a4000 (Apr 23, 2009)

SilverSquirrel said:


> got a pinched or otherwise f'd up wire harness from the door to the body. see recent thread by tcardio, might be same deal.


Yup that was it thanks. A few wires were cracking and the large brown ground wire was completely broken. Soldered in a short piece of wire....h hopefully will hold for a while.

Also realized I couldnt get gas cause switch on door wasnt functional. And my hatch wouldnt open to access the manual release.......so had to crawl in trunk to access emergency hatch release to get enough light to access fuel door release....all because of 1 broken wire. lol


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## bobbeck (Jan 4, 2001)

Day 79 without a running A3.


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

CEL came on last night, still on this AM, dealership can't get me until Saturday at noon but said it was okay to drive as long as it wasn't blinking. Fun.

Yeah, I know, I need to get a VAG-COM, but $350 is a lot  :banghead:


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Went to a Brazilian steak house and the damn valet managed to break my interior driver door handle. They claimed zero responsibility


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## easthk (Oct 10, 2004)

Driving along on a cold 10F morning and within about 2 miles (following a fill-up and hitting a frost heave pretty hard) got sudden loss of power and multiple misfires, flashing CEL. Only 24k on car and running APR K04 v1.1 for 10 months with no issues- K04 has been pulling hard up till this incident. Note: running an 034 tsi catch can system

First round of codes (in order of occurence)
P2177 Bank 1; System Too Lean off Idle </SPAN>
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected (all cylinders)
P2279 Leak in Air Intake System 
High Pressure Sensor (G65)</SPAN> 009 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent (this occurred about a month earlier- HVAC related)
</SPAN>
Inspected intake system and found one slightly loose hose clamp on turbo inlet pipe. Figured this would solve it. Ran great on test drive, no misfires or CEL :beer:. Then next day back to same symptoms after a short drive, warmer 50F day. 

2nd round of codes:
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected (again all cylinders)
P2279 Leak in Air Intake System: Possible Causes 

Vacuum Leak
Intake Manifold Runner Position out of Specification
Faulty Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) System or Heating Element (N79)

Checked for vacuum leaks, couldn't find any obvious leaks. Also noticed some oil leaking from rear of 034 PCV block off plate where vent breather hose plugs in (connected to turbo inlet pipe). Vent hose connection seemed not quite as snug as new-hose pulled out without much force. O-rings seemed in tact on both vent hose connection and main seal on 034 block off plate. Couldn't think of a good way to test if breather hose connection is causing intake leak- seems like a possible source. Suggestions before I try to source a new vent hose and o-ring?
</SPAN></SPAN> </SPAN></SPAN> </SPAN></SPAN>


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Found out my outer CV boot on the driver's side is busted. Added to the long list of crap to take care of :facepalm:


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

BeeAlk said:


> Went to a Brazilian steak house and the damn valet managed to break my interior driver door handle. They claimed zero responsibility


WTF?!?! That sounds like total responsibility to me.



BeeAlk said:


> Found out my outer CV boot on the driver's side is busted. Added to the long list of crap to take care of :facepalm:


Do these driver side outer boots bust often b/c mine is too. The passenger side is fine.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

krazyboi said:


> WTF?!?! That sounds like total responsibility to me.
> 
> Do these driver side outer boots bust often b/c mine is too. The passenger side is fine.


I managed to fix the handle with some glue and a screw behind the door card, so you can't even tell it was repaired.. I was so tired from eating about 70 lbs of raw meat that I didn't have the energy to fight the valet.

I'm not sure if the driver side outer boots fail more often or not, this is my first boot to fail since I've owned my car. Lucky for me it happens when we have a ton of snow and salt, so there's basically no chance of rescuing the cv joint I would think.


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## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

This happened... right behind rear passenger door on left side just under rear wheel well. I pulled off the moulding since I didn't want to lose it while driving. Getting it repaired next Monday but was wondering if you guys think those 2 holes can cause more damage if left exposed as it is....


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## niteryder (May 25, 2007)

davis_449 said:


> I refuse to do that. People keep telling me to do it and I keep telling them to get ****ed. I like my rear wiper, I think it looks fine on the car, and I REALLY like the rear visibility it provides me while doing 20 MPH over everyone else on the freeway in the rain. My buddy with his 996 911 Turbo's got my back...he ain't gettin' rid of his either.:thumbup::laugh:
> 
> 
> Oh, **** off! :laugh:



I'm with you. Since I live in MN, I usually can't make it much more than a mile without having to use it.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

The latch on my headlight connector broke. I now have to use a small flat head to pry it off


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

krazyboi said:


> The latch on my headlight connector broke. I now have to use a small flat head to pry it off


Did you finally get around to putting in those bulbs I sent you? :beer:


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

TBomb said:


> Did you finally get around to putting in those bulbs I sent you? :beer:


Yes! I did. I scratched the crap out of my hands and arms doing it as well. Went through the wheel well. I couldn't tell much difference from what I had, but I think the flickering stopped. I owe you some brewskis...too bad you chose some hard to find ones 

On another note, I think I may have found out my draining battery issue. I have LED DRL bulbs and was using a resistor b/c that's what we did back in 2006. I would always get a bulb out for the right parking light in my DIS. A few days ago, I upgraded the bulbs and vag-com'ed the headlight to not require resistors. I went to remove the resistors from the car and noticed that at one mounting point where I zip-tied the wire, the wire shield was broken totally and wires exposed. It was touching, or very close to touching metal. Could this be my culprit? I guess I can recharge my battery and see if it drains quick again.


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## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

Lately, when I start the car up, I've noticed a squeaky/scratchy noise coming from the dash. It doesn't last long, maybe 5-6 seconds at best. Anyone know what this is? It seems to only happen after the car has been sitting there for a few hours, and of course it's cold outside.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

everfresh59 said:


> Lately, when I start the car up, I've noticed a squeaky/scratchy noise coming from the dash. It doesn't last long, maybe 5-6 seconds at best. Anyone know what this is? It seems to only happen after the car has been sitting there for a few hours, and of course it's cold outside.


Blower fan?


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## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

crew219 said:


> Blower fan?


Let me re-phrase... It does make the noise for maybe 1-2 seconds when I first start the car, bit it also happens when I turn the heat on, which I usually do the moment I take off. This is when it lasts for up to 5-6 seconds.

You think it's just weather related? It's -10 where I'm at, though I haven't had the chance to let the car sit for a few hours in a warm garage to rule it out.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

everfresh59 said:


> Let me re-phrase... It does make the noise for maybe 1-2 seconds when I first start the car, bit it also happens when I turn the heat on, which I usually do the moment I take off. This is when it lasts for up to 5-6 seconds.
> 
> You think it's just weather related? It's -10 where I'm at, though I haven't had the chance to let the car sit for a few hours in a warm garage to rule it out.


I think he meant the blower fan is acting up, not just doing its thing. That'd be my guess as well.


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## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

BeeAlk said:


> I think he meant the blower fan is acting up, not just doing its thing. That'd be my guess as well.


Would this be the culprit you guys are referring to?


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## bobbeck (Jan 4, 2001)

After forking over $3659, nothing! Nothing is wrong today.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

bobbeck said:


> After forking over $3659, nothing! Nothing is wrong today.


Damn dude! So are you going to keep it?


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## bobbeck (Jan 4, 2001)

Hell yeah. It's pretty much got a new engine now.


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

Speaking of....

Blower motor stopped working yesterday morning. Yesterday evening it miraculously worked again totally at random. This morning, dead again. Im assuming this is typical for a dying motor ?


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Worthlessbackup said:


> Speaking of....
> 
> Blower motor stopped working yesterday morning. Yesterday evening it miraculously worked again totally at random. This morning, dead again. Im assuming this is typical for a dying motor ?


This happened on a previous car of mine. The electric motor has "brushes", which are actually solid conductive blocks that press on the rotating shaft. They are long and spring loaded to account for wear. What I found in my old car was that there was plenty of life left in the motor brushes but the wire connected to them was soldered short so when the brush wore past a certain point it would no longer make good contact, resulting in the intermittent operation that gets progressively worse. I resoldered the wire to give more travel and it worked fine for years afterwards.


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

CEL came on, took it to the dealership on what I thought was my last day of my CPO warranty, turns out, misfires on CYL 1 and 2, they swapped plugs to 3 and 4 respectively and everything corrected itself.

On a brighter note, found out my warranty is actually still good until August as the car still had a factory warranty when I got it CPO so that's a bonus if they do decide to die before then, its covered with only a $50 deductible.


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## skotti (Sep 27, 2005)

Time to change my spark plugs.
Do most people change coil packs at same time they change plugs? Mine have about 30,000 miles on them, after the dealer replaced them under the campaign.


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

Went to add washer fluid and when I added it, it started to run all over the engine bay, looked at the hose leading down to the main reservoir and its brittle and falling apart. Fun. I guess I'm happy I found out my CPO is extended until August.


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## 8PA3_EuroChick (Oct 1, 2013)

This to start...









Plus both my driver side window regulators are out front and back....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 8PA3_EuroChick (Oct 1, 2013)

Better picture of my lovely back passenger door










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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Oh no!!  what happened? 

Sent from my Igloo


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## kobrian85 (Oct 31, 2012)

It got crunchy front end now.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

^^ that sucks.  what happened?


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## kobrian85 (Oct 31, 2012)

krazyboi said:


> ^^ that sucks.  what happened?


Cars in front of me jammed on brakes, I do the same as I approach the rail road crossing... and slide through the RR crossing... I didn't stand a chance in that instance. By the time I made contact with the car in front of me I don't think I had been even going 10mph. Car in front of me had no damage (because it had been previously rear ended and had no bumper...), pretty much my fault so it'll hit my insurance. I had towed to the Audi dealer for repairs yesterday morning, hopefully will know more this afternoon or tomorrow. Either way, I'm gonna be rocking a sweet rental for 2-3 weeks probably.


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## 8PA3_EuroChick (Oct 1, 2013)

Snow and a pole happened... 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

I caught a chunk of ice and it got sucked up into my wheel well.. took a chunk of paint with it :banghead:

Any idea on the best way to fix this? Not sure I want to pay to have whole fender painted/blended..


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## bobbeck (Jan 4, 2001)

Paint marker? Sharpie? 


I had a similar blemish on my C Class and just swapped out the fender with one that matched. Easy and fun to do after a day of boozin.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

bobbeck said:


> Paint marker? Sharpie?
> 
> 
> I had a similar blemish on my C Class and just swapped out the fender with one that matched. Easy and fun to do after a day of boozin.


Mostly I want to make sure it wont start to rust.. That white stuff on the fender is salt 

It's hardly noticeable as it is, and if it were black I don't think you'd be able to tell at all.. I'm just wondering how to tackle it. 

Pick away loose paint, sand, prime, sand, touchup, clear? Sharpie and clear nailpolish? I have no clue..


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## ceese (Jul 2, 2011)

BeeAlk said:


> Mostly I want to make sure it wont start to rust.. That white stuff on the fender is salt
> 
> It's hardly noticeable as it is, and if it were black I don't think you'd be able to tell at all.. I'm just wondering how to tackle it.
> 
> Pick away loose paint, sand, prime, sand, touchup, clear? Sharpie and clear nailpolish? I have no clue..




Sand lightly so that the paint edges smooth to the metal
Borrow a hobby air brush and buy a tube or two (depending on tube size) of touch up paint that matches your paint code
Air brush two or three thin coats of primer until it's fully primed. Your putting down very little primer on each coat should feel dry to the touch in under an hour for each coat. First / second coat a little metal should still show through (helps if you set up some work lights and put them about a foot away so the heat helps it dry and removes any moisture. Lightly wet sand with at least 1200 grit sand paper
Follow the steps of the air brush for the paint
finish it with a couple thin coats of clear and no one should notice.


Find some cardboard an practice with the air brush first. Go slow, you can always lay down another coat of primer, paint or clear.


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## REvolution01 (Feb 17, 2012)

ceese said:


> Sand lightly so that the paint edges smooth to the metal
> Borrow a hobby air brush and buy a tube or two (depending on tube size) of touch up paint that matches your paint code
> Air brush two or three thin coats of primer until it's fully primed. Your putting down very little primer on each coat should feel dry to the touch in under an hour for each coat. First / second coat a little metal should still show through (helps if you set up some work lights and put them about a foot away so the heat helps it dry and removes any moisture. Lightly wet sand with at least 1200 grit sand paper
> Follow the steps of the air brush for the paint
> ...



I've had the same kind of paint damage to my fenders, it's really noticeable on a black darker paint vehicle - I havent had the chance to repaint but ceese basically has it down pat. As for rusting, the exposed sheetmetal on my car is still rust free (been over a year now) and thats with constant humidity/rain (Pacific NW) not sure how it would fare with salted roads...

I've been meaning to fix it but havent had the time. However, I was planning on purchasing the touch up paint from: Automotive Touch Up

With the option to order by the bottle, aerosol, or can


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

So I guess the locking collar on my front suspension was loose and allowed my hose to roll to the wheel side and my wheel ate the hose.


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

krazyboi said:


> So I guess the locking collar on my front suspension was loose and allowed my hose to roll to the wheel side and my wheel ate the hose.


I've heard of that happening on a couple of these struts now. You should contact AirLift and see if they will hook you up considering this seems to be a reoccurring problem.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

This:


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## kenjiwu_85 (Aug 20, 2010)

*Intermittent EPC/CEL + unable to accelerate at some point.*

Got throttle body Controller fault code from VCDS.
Related to voltage.
Brought it to the dealer to fix.
Findings: corroded wires from ECU to Throttle Body Controller.
Out of warranty period.
Total billed $1200 for 5.5h + parts

They offered to reduced the bill to $820.
Basically they remove the cost of the parts.
Still expensive for the labour cost.
Had no choice since I need the car to get to work so i have to get it working.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

kenjiwu_85 said:


> Got throttle body Controller fault code from VCDS.
> Related to voltage.
> Brought it to the dealer to fix.
> Findings: corroded wires from ECU to Throttle Body Controller.
> ...


Well non dealer place would make life a lot cheaper. I know having my mechanic saves me an awesome amount of money. :thumbup:


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

800 dollars to replace wires? Id be very interested to see what the wiring job for this included. Suspicious.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

kenjiwu_85 said:


> Got throttle body Controller fault code from VCDS.
> Related to voltage.
> Brought it to the dealer to fix.
> Findings: corroded wires from ECU to Throttle Body Controller.
> ...


WTF . . . . the Throttle body wiring is part of a TSB too :banghead:


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Worthlessbackup said:


> I've heard of that happening on a couple of these struts now. You should contact AirLift and see if they will hook you up considering this seems to be a reoccurring problem.


You mean the locking collars getting lose and spinning the whole assembly? Can you link me to some? Gonna have to research. :beer:



MisterJJ said:


> This:


Too much bumpin' in the car?


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## kenjiwu_85 (Aug 20, 2010)

Worthlessbackup said:


> 800 dollars to replace wires? Id be very interested to see what the wiring job for this included. Suspicious.


5.5Hrs of labour at 132.95/Hr
Total 731.23 plus tax

They rewired from the ECU all the way to the Throttle Body Controller.

Beats me.
Don't even know how that wire got corroded in the first place.

Driving seems smoother after the repair. Could be placebo effect.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

kenjiwu_85 said:


> 5.5Hrs of labour at *132.95/Hr*
> Total 731.23 plus tax
> 
> They rewired from the ECU all the way to the Throttle Body Controller.
> ...


Ouch. Go to indie man..


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

krazyboi said:


> Too much bumpin' in the car?


Hehe.. I guess so.

Torque mount insert + Chipped + Aggressive driving = Dogbone bushing failure

Now to figure out what to get as a replacement.


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

krazyboi said:


> You mean the locking collars getting lose and spinning the whole assembly? Can you link me to some? Gonna have to research. :beer:
> 
> 
> 
> Too much bumpin' in the car?


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?t=6937969

This is what I saw. Maybe that's the same problem maybe not. It sounded similar to me but perhaps it is a similar but slightly different issue. 

Sent from my LT30at using Tapatalk


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Worthlessbackup said:


> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?t=6937969
> 
> This is what I saw. Maybe that's the same problem maybe not. It sounded similar to me but perhaps it is a similar but slightly different issue.


I shot AirLift a customer service notification last night after I saw your message. Got a response today and they are shipping me a replacement today. :thumbup:

Bump for good customer service...and thanks for the insight Worthless


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

Boiled off all of the G12 coolant in my reservoir at the track and had it dripping all over the place. Time for a pressure test and flush with G12++


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

JRutter said:


> Boiled off all of the G12 coolant in my reservoir at the track and had it dripping all over the place. Time for a pressure test and flush with G12++


Try to keep up to date please. We are on G13 now... 

I have a 71C degree thermostat (long story...) kicking around. Wanna try it? Our Stocker is 80C

Lets just say I can now do a 3.2 Thermostat job in about an hour.... from drain to refill:banghead:


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

G13 it is, lol. I was just looking at the low temp t-stat. Think it would really help, or just delay the inevitable?


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

krazyboi said:


> I shot AirLift a customer service notification last night after I saw your message. Got a response today and they are shipping me a replacement today. :thumbup:
> 
> Bump for good customer service...and thanks for the insight Worthless


That's awesome! The only reason I bought V2 with their performance struts was because of their storied customer service. Im glad they are keeping things that way. 

Sent from my LT30at using Tapatalk


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

JRutter said:


> G13 it is, lol. I was just looking at the low temp t-stat. Think it would really help, or just delay the inevitable?


I think a larger radiator and an oil cooler are in your future.

Low temp t stat will just give you cooling performance fault codes on really cold mornings, because it takes too long to warm up. Once your oil is hot, the tstat is open, and not going to do anything to keep oil temps down.


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## dfriz (Apr 24, 2012)

*golf clubs*

what's wrong today? more like, what's wrong with your A3 every spring? It never fails, every spring I try to put my golf bag in the hatch and it just wont fit unless I put the rear seats down or pull out the driver. This is literally the only thing that irks me with my A3. All I need is another inch or two... :banghead:

like those pins aren't set up for someone ... it feels like a Friday, so let's act like it's a Friday, more :beer: and lol bump plz


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

dfriz said:


> what's wrong today? more like, what's wrong with your A3 every spring? It never fails, every spring I try to put my golf bag in the hatch and it just wont fit unless I put the rear seats down or pull out the driver. This is literally the only thing that irks me with my A3. All I need is another inch or two... :banghead:
> 
> like those pins aren't set up for someone ... it feels like a Friday, so let's act like it's a Friday, more :beer: and lol bump plz


I've fit two bags of clubs in my hatch without folding the seats down....


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Ponto said:


> I've fit two bags of clubs in my hatch without folding the seats down....


He's probably tall...


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## dfriz (Apr 24, 2012)

krazyboi said:


> He's probably tall...


my sticks are longer?


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

Looks like i'm going to need to replace my A/C system..


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

neu318 said:


> Looks like i'm going to need to replace my A/C system..


Been there, done that.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

dfriz said:


> my sticks are longer?


Thats what she said!


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

neu318 said:


> Looks like i'm going to need to replace my A/C system..


How many miles do you have now?


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

krazyboi said:


> How many miles do you have now?


66k miles. If you have any info on what I need to replace my A/C I would appreciate it. I was trying to find the kit online but notice most of them are for 2.0t not the 3.2. Also they show the evaporator and expansion valve as one piece. Not sure what I need. I know someone that can do the work for me but wanted to see if I could find the parts on the cheap. Let me know. :thumbup::thumbup:


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## kobrian85 (Oct 31, 2012)

neu318 said:


> 66k miles. If you have any info on what I need to replace my A/C I would appreciate it. I was trying to find the kit online but notice most of them are for 2.0t not the 3.2. Also they show the evaporator and expansion valve as one piece. Not sure what I need. I know someone that can do the work for me but wanted to see if I could find the parts on the cheap. Let me know. :thumbup::thumbup:


Or, or... You can do what I did... "Purposely" rear end a truck who's bumper is above yours (if there's a trailer hitch that's even better), so that their bumper plows into your grill and hood. By doing this, the important parts of the A/C system (along with other things such as the motor cover, radiator and intercooler) are replaced in the scope of your insurance responsibility. In my case, I had nearly $12,000 in parts and labor, so my $500 deductible was worth it. However, understand that there is a real risk of your car being totaled as well, and thus ruining the sole purpose of getting a new A/C system for your existing (and likely beloved) A3.










As an added bonus, you can drive a real awesome rental car for a month while the A3 is in the shop for repairs - I had a brand new Kia Soul, if that doesn't boost your ego into the "I'm a badass" zone, nothing will!


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

Damn man, sorry to hear.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

kobrian85 said:


> Or, or... You can do what I did... "Purposely" rear end a truck who's bumper is above yours (if there's a trailer hitch that's even better), so that their bumper plows into your grill and hood. By doing this, the important parts of the A/C system (along with other things such as the motor cover, radiator and intercooler) are replaced in the scope of your insurance responsibility. In my case, I had nearly $12,000 in parts and labor, so my $500 deductible was worth it. However, understand that there is a real risk of your car being totaled as well, and thus ruining the sole purpose of getting a new A/C system for your existing (and likely beloved) A3.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Dang that sucks! Fairly similar to my accident. Mine only ran 7,500 though. Them headlights be expensive!!

But I did get a whole new Ac system thanks to it too.


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## kobrian85 (Oct 31, 2012)

Ponto said:


> Dang that sucks! Fairly similar to my accident. Mine only ran 7,500 though. Them headlights be expensive!!
> 
> But I did get a whole new Ac system thanks to it too.


Its all good fellas, I'm back in the Yay and things are running like butter.

I inquired about upgrading my headlights to factory bi-xenons since they already had to replace both halogens... Talk about effing expensive! It was going to run me over $1,000 out of pocket to upgrade. Needless to say, I'm still running halogens, but they are BRAND NEW halogens.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

kobrian85 said:


> Its all good fellas, I'm back in the Yay and things are running like butter.
> 
> I inquired about upgrading my headlights to factory bi-xenons since they already had to replace both halogens... Talk about effing expensive! It was going to run me over $1,000 out of pocket to upgrade. Needless to say, I'm still running halogens, but they are BRAND NEW halogens.


You could always buy them yourself for much less.. I've been thinking about it.


----------



## easthk (Oct 10, 2004)

Update: this turned out to be a bad oxygen sensor, the top one located on the downpipe. 

After passing boost and vacuum leak tests and still misfiring/running like crap 100% of the time, it came down to looking at the oxygen sensor readouts through vag-com, then testing. In hindsight, the lean code should've clued me to check O2 sensors first, but since engine ran normally after tightening a few hoses and the lean code never returned (was likely intermittent O2 sensor performance), it took a little longer to diagnose the real issue. 

New oxygen sensor and its running like a champ! And steering like a champ with solid TT control arm bushings.



easthk said:


> Driving along on a cold 10F morning and within about 2 miles (following a fill-up and hitting a frost heave pretty hard) got sudden loss of power and multiple misfires, flashing CEL. Only 24k on car and running APR K04 v1.1 for 10 months with no issues- K04 has been pulling hard up till this incident. Note: running an 034 tsi catch can system
> 
> First round of codes (in order of occurence)
> P2177 Bank 1; System Too Lean off Idle </SPAN>
> ...


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Got back from my 3 week vacation and found the car totally dead. Couldn't even unlock the doors w/ fob. The battery is no more than 6 months old. Alternator has been replaced. I've been having electrical problems for a while now, but have yet to figure out what the problem was.

Jumped the car and drove it 40 miles. Parked it for about 2-3 hours. Went to start it again and it wouldn't even try to turn over. Threw the car on my battery charger and got it up to 11.85v before disconnecting it last night. Going to check the voltage tonight when I get home to see if it's dropped.

While I was charging it, I noticed my NAV display was flickering on/off slightly. Held the power button down and then the NAV started flipping out and was flashing bright white. Disconnected the NAV and I saw the DENSION Gateway 100 I installed a little while back. I disconnected it thinking it could possibly be my culprit even though it works fine. Or perhaps my NAV is the issue?

:banghead:


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## kobrian85 (Oct 31, 2012)

Misfires in cylinder 2. This has been an ongoing issue for about 4,000 miles. I've taken it into my awesome local shop a couple of times but they can't get the misfire to occur when they have the car in their possession, so they reset the code for me and I call them when the CEL returns. Took it in again yesterday morning and still no misfires while they had it (VAG COM indicated there were 11 misfires over the past week from the time CEL came on until they reset it), so I picked it up again last night. I asked the mechanic what he thinks is going on, he said that it maybe the wiring (harness?) for the #2 coil. I asked about carbon cleaning and he thought that since it is always isolated to cylinder 2 that carbon probably isn't the main culprit. I replaced the plugs and the coils right after the first time my CEL came on for the misfire, so that's unlikely the cause. This morning the CEL returned... So frustrating!

:banghead:

On another note, I ordered a new Cam Follower this week and that will probably be my weekend project.


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Have you tried swapping coils to see if the problem follows it? But I'm betting that carbon is the culprit.


----------



## Greddy87 (Oct 21, 2010)

krazyboi said:


> Got back from my 3 week vacation and found the car totally dead. Couldn't even unlock the doors w/ fob. The battery is no more than 6 months old. Alternator has been replaced. I've been having electrical problems for a while now, but have yet to figure out what the problem was.
> 
> Jumped the car and drove it 40 miles. Parked it for about 2-3 hours. Went to start it again and it wouldn't even try to turn over. Threw the car on my battery charger and got it up to 11.85v before disconnecting it last night. Going to check the voltage tonight when I get home to see if it's dropped.
> 
> ...


Possibly Bad Ground connection? Fuse Relay?.. Get those checked.. & Good luck..


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Greddy87 said:


> Possibly Bad Ground connection? Fuse Relay?.. Get those checked.. & Good luck..


Yea, I noticed it more when I got my air installation done, but the installer said he checked everything. At least I have my own garage now and can play with it a bit. :beer:


----------



## kobrian85 (Oct 31, 2012)

MisterJJ said:


> Have you tried swapping coils to see if the problem follows it? But I'm betting that carbon is the culprit.


I have, and it continually says Cylinder 2 is misfiring. I shuffled the original ones around. I even purchased a single coil pack and used it in #2, then moved it around. Finally purchasing all 4 coil packs and then shuffling them around again. I tend to agree with you about the carbon, but I've got complete faith in my mechanic, so I'm doing my best to not be *that guy* with him and let him do his job. But I'll tell you, the inconvenience of having to leave the car with them for a day on a regular basis is getting old.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

kobrian85 said:


> I have, and it continually says Cylinder 2 is misfiring. I shuffled the original ones around. I even purchased a single coil pack and used it in #2, then moved it around. Finally purchasing all 4 coil packs and then shuffling them around again. I tend to agree with you about the carbon, but I've got complete faith in my mechanic, so I'm doing my best to not be *that guy* with him and let him do his job. But I'll tell you, the inconvenience of having to leave the car with them for a day on a regular basis is getting old.


Ask your mechanic if he can check inside your intake with a borescope to completely rule out carbon build up.

My money is on that.


----------



## telchar (May 17, 2014)

Flat tire. Going to have to replace the tires a little sooner than expected. Debating getting a new set of wheels and keeping the current s-line 17s as winter wheels.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

telchar said:


> Flat tire. Going to have to replace the tires a little sooner than expected. Debating getting a new set of wheels and keeping the current s-line 17s as winter wheels.


Where in VA are you? New wheels w/ Continental DWS :thumbup:


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

Iam in the same boat.

Need to change two tires but gonna replace all wheels/tires. Going with 18x8 with 225-40


----------



## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

My DIS is being weird, randomly, here and there it'll flash between (F) and (C) for the temperature outside. This is pretty random and okay.

Today, starting her up, she choked a little bit, but it was all good, but the DIS was stuck on "No NAV DVD Inserted" which is okay, it wasn't inserted, however it also lost my place in the menus as well, I usually keep the digital speedometer on, this was off, my radio station pre-set was showing up weird. Overall, weird experience.

Also, my audio settings on my RNS-E reset (Bass and Treble). I'm thinking maybe the battery going? It's going on three years, in AZ, probably should go get it checked and replaced if needed. Anyone have this happen to them?


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

beckermanex said:


> My DIS is being weird, randomly, here and there it'll flash between (F) and (C) for the temperature outside. This is pretty random and okay.
> 
> Today, starting her up, she choked a little bit, but it was all good, but the DIS was stuck on "No NAV DVD Inserted" which is okay, it wasn't inserted, however it also lost my place in the menus as well, I usually keep the digital speedometer on, this was off, my radio station pre-set was showing up weird. Overall, weird experience.
> 
> Also, my audio settings on my RNS-E reset (Bass and Treble). I'm thinking maybe the battery going? It's going on three years, in AZ, probably should go get it checked and replaced if needed. Anyone have this happen to them?


Even with my battery completely out I never lost any radio settings or had any weird things happen with my DIS. 

Is there a separate, smaller battery somewhere that backs up the "memory" ? My old car had a large watch battery to provide power if the battery was out for this purpose.


----------



## DOMIT (Oct 26, 2009)

Mine isn't here yet... have to pick it up July 11th in Denver. :banghead:


----------



## dman4486 (Jun 22, 2011)

*05/04/14 Accident*

well... Mine was rear-ended on the interstate... Luckily behind me there was a Crown Vic and an x5, both of which were totaled by a Mountaineer.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Sucks man. That's pretty bad to be the front of 4 cars.


----------



## wishntoboutside (Mar 11, 2002)

Bummer to see but glad your ok.


----------



## REvolution01 (Feb 17, 2012)

Any pics of the other cars in the chain? ic:


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

BeeAlk said:


> Even with my battery completely out I never lost any radio settings or had any weird things happen with my DIS.


Yea, I don't recall my RNS-E settings ever resetting and my battery has died plenty of times. :banghead:


----------



## dman4486 (Jun 22, 2011)

krazyboi said:


> Sucks man. That's pretty bad to be the front of 4 cars.


actually I was #2 of 5 we ended up like this...

1 2
3
4
5

Luckily I had the brains to move to the right of #1 and prevent myself from a total. #3(crown vic) was unable to stop without the extra length of my car out of the way.



wishntoboutside said:


> Bummer to see but glad your ok.


3 of us in the car and we were all alright



REvolution01 said:


> Any pics of the other cars in the chain? ic:


I thought of getting other pics but the State Trooper thought I was the best witness since I knew where all of the cars were before the accident which meant I was busy for the 4 hours we were on the side of the interstate. Apparently giving lots of detail makes you the main show. :facepalm:


----------



## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

krazyboi said:


> Yea, I don't recall my RNS-E settings ever resetting and my battery has died plenty of times. :banghead:


Well you're right, didn't lose any settings, but it was the battery, went out for lunch. Nothing but clicking.

New battery looks good. Anything I should know as far as VAG-COM reset anything? I got an ESP warning when I turned it on the first time after the new battery was in.


----------



## telchar (May 17, 2014)

Darn, wish I'd been keeping up on this thread. I just installed new Enkei Kojins with Conti DWs. What kind of wheels are you selling?


----------



## clashofhope (Sep 9, 2011)

krazyboi said:


> Where in VA are you? New wheels w/ Continental DWS :thumbup:


Best overall tires ever.

Bought them right before a snowstorm here in Texas last year and I didn't have any issues with ice like the thousands of others on the road. Then again everyone here sucks at driving.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dman4486 (Jun 22, 2011)

Any reason to not go back with stock parts? I should be getting a call next week telling me to go to the shop and make use of someone else's $2,500.


----------



## skotti (Sep 27, 2005)

Closed my car door and was showered with pieces of the open sky screen latch.
Hadn't touched it in weeks.
And it was already replaced once (by dealer, under warranty).
Ugggghhhhhhhhh:facepalm:

(Inadvertently posted this under 'What did you do to your A3?')


----------



## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

Timing belt broke and caused head damage. The lifters knocked off. I'm taking the whole head off


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Audi_O said:


> Timing belt broke and caused head damage. The lifters knocked off. I'm taking the whole head off


Damn dude, sorry to hear. Seems like we get a post like this about every other week.

How many miles on TB? Was it the belt that actually failed or something else?

I'm waiting on my bonus check to arrive so I can have my TB done. 50k miles on my TB and this makes me nervous.


----------



## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

AC still sucking. I have the new Sanden Valve waiting to go in to see if it fixes the issue.


----------



## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

BeeAlk said:


> Damn dude, sorry to hear. Seems like we get a post like this about every other week.
> 
> How many miles on TB? Was it the belt that actually failed or something else?
> 
> I'm waiting on my bonus check to arrive so I can have my TB done. 50k miles on my TB and this makes me nervous.


This was the second timing belt. I changed the first one at 92000 miles and now at 176000 miles. I didn't see anything else that could of caused it. The timing belt was missing about 20 teethes on it.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Audi_O said:


> This was the second timing belt. I changed the first one at 92000 miles and now at 176000 miles. I didn't see anything else that could of caused it. The timing belt was missing about 20 teethes on it.


What brand belt and components? Did you change just the belt or all the other parts too? If the tensioner failed it will take out the belt and, well, you know the rest.

Factory interval was revised to 75k miles.. So sounds like you pushed your luck just a little and it wasn't in your favor.

Plans to upgrade anything with the head removed?


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Audi_O said:


> I didn't see anything else that could of caused it. The timing belt was missing about 20 teethes on it.


How's the cam follower for the fuel pump look? Had it failed earlier in the car's history?

Is the water pump and belt tensioner pulley okay?

I'm still waiting for proof of a timing belt failure for our engine that was not caused by other component failure or excessive mileage (>110k on belt).


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

BeeAlk said:


> Factory interval was revised to 75k miles.. So sounds like you pushed your luck just a little and it wasn't in your favor.


Source?

Online maintenance schedule still says 110k for 2.0t: http://www.audiusa.com/content/dam/audiusa/Documents/Audi-Maintenance-Schedule-Model-Year-2006.pdf


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

BeeAlk said:


> What brand belt and components? Did you change just the belt or all the other parts too? If the tensioner failed it will take out the belt and, well, you know the rest.
> 
> Factory interval was revised to 75k miles.. So sounds like you pushed your luck just a little and it wasn't in your favor.
> 
> Plans to upgrade anything with the head removed?


I bought the first kit from dbc tuning and changed all the components. I had just ordered another kit from Blau parts to change it again right before this happened. 
I'm getting the APR k04 turbo and just redo the head stock


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

MisterJJ said:


> Source?
> 
> Online maintenance schedule still says 110k for 2.0t: http://www.audiusa.com/content/dam/audiusa/Documents/Audi-Maintenance-Schedule-Model-Year-2006.pdf


Don't have the time to find a concrete source, but: https://www.google.com/#q=2.0t+fsi+timing+belt+75k+miles

I asked my dealership back when I bought the car and they also confirmed that it was modified from 110k to 75k. Plenty of people have lost their TBs right around 80k from the research I did a while back.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

Iam at 155k miles and never changed the T-belt ... 

BUT

I got the car used at 110k miles.

I think the previous owner did it but cant confirm.


Iam getting the ECS tuning soon, the complete one minus the crank pulley.

What do you think on this kit? 

damn that uber sucks. sorry for the comments but I dont wanna that happens on mine. 

Also whats about the cam chain tensioner replacement? any info on a DIY or parts involved? thanks


----------



## Bezerker (Nov 12, 2013)

MisterJJ said:


> Source?
> 
> Online maintenance schedule still says 110k for 2.0t: http://www.audiusa.com/content/dam/audiusa/Documents/Audi-Maintenance-Schedule-Model-Year-2006.pdf


What does your hardcopy service manual say? I don't have mine in front of me right now, but folks in other forums (http://www.audiforums.com/forum/audi-a3-12/2-0t-timing-belt-replacement-160904/) say there is a discrepancy between the service manual and the online documents (and also the Bentley Manual apparently  ) when it comes to the timing belt service. This whole issue is so annoying - particularly because Audi's online documents are out of date (assuming there was actually a real revision to the service schedule - I have yet to track down any "official" documentation).


----------



## fefyfo (Mar 27, 2014)

Took the car through the car-wash and the rain sensing wipers kept going despite it being in the off-position. Now the rear wipers won't turn off. Pulled the fuse. Hoping it'll fix itself after a few weeks or change the motor.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Bezerker said:


> What does your hardcopy service manual say? I don't have mine in front of me right now, but folks in other forums (http://www.audiforums.com/forum/audi-a3-12/2-0t-timing-belt-replacement-160904/) say there is a discrepancy between the service manual and the online documents (and also the Bentley Manual apparently  ) when it comes to the timing belt service. This whole issue is so annoying - particularly because Audi's online documents are out of date (assuming there was actually a real revision to the service schedule - I have yet to track down any "official" documentation).


If you are that concerned and unsure why not just go ask your local dealer. Hell get it in writing even. 

Instead of looking online, reading what people say or think they know. 

I can't stand people who base everything on what they read online, or forums etc. Not to say there isn't good knowledge here and people don't know their ****, but if you are really that unsure or concerned I would advise against not using internet sources for something like a timing belt that could cost you a few valves, a head and a lot of money. 

That being said my old 1.8T was 100k or 60k miles. I changed it every 85-90k km depending on how the belt looked just to be safe. 

Why push your luck with something like this?


----------



## Bezerker (Nov 12, 2013)

Ponto said:


> If you are that concerned and unsure why not just go ask your local dealer. Hell get it in writing even.
> 
> Instead of looking online, reading what people say or think they know.
> 
> I can't stand people who base everything on what they read online, or forums etc. Not to say there isn't good knowledge here and people don't know their ****, but if you are really that unsure or concerned I would advise against not using internet sources for something like a timing belt that could cost you a few valves, a head and a lot of money.


If you're referring to my post (you quoted my post) - I was just pointing out that others are equally confused by the service schedule for the timing belt :screwy: I agree, you shouldn't believe everything in the forums, but Audi should be able to post an updated service schedule (assuming there was in fact an official revision to the schedule).


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

BeeAlk said:


> Don't have the time to find a concrete source, but: https://www.google.com/#q=2.0t+fsi+timing+belt+75k+miles
> 
> I asked my dealership back when I bought the car and they also confirmed that it was modified from 110k to 75k. Plenty of people have lost their TBs right around 80k from the research I did a while back.


The link totally contradicts what you said. 1st hit is a failure at 122k miles and the next ones say that the mileage was changed FROM 75k TO 105k (or 110k). The maintenance schedule confuses things because it lists timing belt under 75k for most engines but then lists 110k for the 2.0t in the notes.

I think there has been a lot of bad information and paranoia due to previous engines, cough-1.8t-cough, that have gone from 105k to 75k intervals because of a rash of premature failures. If you look at the design of our belt compared to the 1.8t belt you will see that it is very different due to a redesign for longevity.

I put out a challenge a while ago for anyone to find a single case of premature (<100k miles) failure for our engine not caused by other component failure. Not a single one could be found. One guy insisted he had a premature failure but eventually admitted that his cam follower had previous blown apart.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Ponto said:


> If you are that concerned and unsure why not just go ask your local dealer. Hell get it in writing even.
> 
> Instead of looking online, reading what people say or think they know.
> 
> ...


I like you.

This isn't really something you want to **** around with. Call up your dealer and get a concrete answer. I'm basing my comment (about the revision from 110 to 75) from memories of research I did well over a year ago. I got confirmation from my dealer.. but hey, they could be wrong.

Call up your own and ask. It'll take 3 minutes and you will have it straight from the source. 

I plan on changing my TB at around 60k, as _*preventative*_ maintenance and peace of mind. These things are _known_ to fail prematurely at a startling rate. Why risk making your car worthless over a couple hundred bucks you'll be spending anyway (whenever you decide to stop postponing the inevitable and get it taken care of).


----------



## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

MisterJJ said:


> How's the cam follower for the fuel pump look? Had it failed earlier in the car's history?
> 
> Is the water pump and belt tensioner pulley okay?
> 
> I'm still waiting for proof of a timing belt failure for our engine that was not caused by other component failure or excessive mileage (>110k on belt).


Cam follower and fuel pump all good never had a problem with it. 
When I took out the water pump the top of the plastic impeller came off.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

Audi_O said:


> Cam follower and fuel pump all good never had a problem with it.
> When I took out the water pump the top of the plastic impeller came off.


Plastic impeller.. Mmmm and thats the previously replaced one. Next time stick with the metal impeller. Iam looking for the ECS kit with metal imp wp. G/L man


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

BeeAlk said:


> I plan on changing my TB at around 60k, as _*preventative*_ maintenance and peace of mind.


I agree 100%. Everyone should do the maintenance that gives themselves peace of mind. It's just different for different people and should be based upon information which is as accurate as possible.



BeeAlk said:


> Why risk making your car worthless over a couple hundred bucks you'll be spending anyway.


It's far more than a couple hundred bucks if someone else does it for you and if you do it yourself it is a couple hundred bucks plus a whole lot of time and I value the time to do this as much more than the cost of the parts. And it depends on how long you intend to keep the car. If you can keep it long enough to get one less timing belt change done during the life of the car I would consider it a significant savings of time and money. But like I said, it should be what you are comfortable with, based on accurate information and considering how risk averse you are. Some people buy premium insurance because they are willing to pay more for less risk while others want to pay less and accept more risk.



BeeAlk said:


> These things are _known_ to fail prematurely at a startling rate.


Here's where I disagree 1000%. Nobody has been able to present a single case of a timing belt failure at less than 100k miles that wasn't likely related to other parts failing. Not one in all the thousands of these engines in use. I think there's just been a lot of bleed-over from other VAG engines which have had problems along with a lot of cam follower failures that are initially reported as a timing belt failure.

Personally, I'm going with 80k interval. 2 changes will take me to 240k miles. That's one less change for me over a 60k interval.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

MisterJJ said:


> It's far more than a couple hundred bucks if someone else does it for you


A place local to me will do the job for about $600 and guarantee their work. If I buy the parts myself it will knock that price down by about $100 or so. Maybe not exactly a "couple hundred" but not much more, either. 



MisterJJ said:


> Here's where I disagree 1000%. Nobody has been able to present a single case of a timing belt failure at less than 100k miles that wasn't likely related to other parts failing. Not one in all the thousands of these engines in use. I think there's just been a lot of bleed-over from other VAG engines which have had problems along with a lot of cam follower failures that are initially reported as a timing belt failure.


What's the difference if it's actually the TB or one of the other components failing, taking out the whole system with it? If I'm changing the timing belt, I'm changing all the other components as well, regardless of which one of them is most likely to fail. I think most other people would do the same, though I know of instances where they haven't and catastrophe ensued. 

"Changing the timing belt" = replacing belt, tensioner, pulleys, water pump, etc.


I hope I'm not coming across as overly defensive. I suppose I should just be more careful with my words. :beer:


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

BeeAlk said:


> A place local to me will do the job for about *$600 and guarantee their work*. If I buy the parts myself it will knock that price down by about $100 or so. Maybe not exactly a "couple hundred" but not much more, either.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's a steal of a deal, most places are around the 1k mark. 

And to you changing the belt includes all that, but there are people out there who don't realize all that needs to be changed with it and don't change it, I have seen it a lot where people want to skimp out because it is a nearly 1000-1300 job from the dealer or various places. 

The difference is the belt itself may not fail if something else wasn't changed ie the water pump and all of a sudden you have 150-200k on the water pump and it goes and takes out the belt prematurely aka not the belt failing but the water pump.


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

BeeAlk said:


> A place local to me will do the job for about $600 and guarantee their work. If I buy the parts myself it will knock that price down by about $100 or so. Maybe not exactly a "couple hundred" but not much more, either.


 That is a real good price if they change all the other important bits as well.



BeeAlk said:


> What's the difference if it's actually the TB or one of the other components failing, taking out the whole system with it? If I'm changing the timing belt, I'm changing all the other components as well, regardless of which one of them is most likely to fail. I think most other people would do the same, though I know of instances where they haven't and catastrophe ensued.
> 
> "Changing the timing belt" = replacing belt, tensioner, pulleys, water pump, etc.


I agree. But I was really referring to cam follower or cam chain failing as being a root cause of timing belt failure. Things that wouldn't get changed along with the timing belt. I would consider water pump, tensioner, etc. to be part of a timing belt failure, which I have not heard of either, other than cheap replacement parts failing.



BeeAlk said:


> I hope I'm not coming across as overly defensive. I suppose I should just be more careful with my words. :beer:


Nah. It's all good. We're just putting our own opinions out there and it will hopefully help others to make a better informed decision as to what to do with their own car.

P.S. I also maintain a Passat with a 1.8t, which is notorious for premature TB failure. It has over 220k miles and I changed the belt at 80k, which would have been sooner if I knew of the water pump problems earlier. I did use a metal impeller replacement. Then I did the TB again at 153k and am looking to do it again soon (daughter wants to keep the car despite my protests).


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

I will do my own TB, I will do it my way:


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> I will do my own TB, I will do it my way:


:laugh:
0:00------------------------1:45-------------2:28


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

MisterJJ said:


> :laugh:
> 0:00------------------------1:45-------------2:28


ROFLOL sorry couldnt resist really. Lets all do this TB thing and do a thread bout it. Peace


----------



## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

CEL again, I suspect more misfires, have to scan this morning to see. /sigh, only have CPO for another few weeks, lets hope to get it fixed before then!


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

beckermanex said:


> CEL again, I suspect more misfires, have to scan this morning to see. /sigh, only have CPO for another few weeks, lets hope to get it fixed before then!


new spark plugs can do the trick. mine's been storing a fault related to misfiring. Didnt even bother if I cant feel them or CEL is off.


----------



## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> new spark plugs can do the trick. mine's been storing a fault related to misfiring. Didnt even bother if I cant feel them or CEL is off.


They did replace them a few months ago, or atleast they told me they moved them around 1 into 3 and 2 into 4 and that seemed to solve the issue, but its back now, VAG-COM says misfire on 2 and 3 so I'm just going to take her in and have her checked out, be sure there isn't more wrong, free for a few more weeks, might as well use it


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

beckermanex said:


> They did replace them a few months ago, or atleast they told me they moved them around 1 into 3 and 2 into 4 and that seemed to solve the issue, but its back now, VAG-COM says misfire on 2 and 3 so I'm just going to take her in and have her checked out, be sure there isn't more wrong, free for a few more weeks, might as well use it


I carry coil packs with me regularly. When I get misfires, replace and problem solved.


----------



## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

krazyboi said:


> I carry coil packs with me regularly. When I get misfires, replace and problem solved.


Dropped her off at Audi Chandler to check out the misfires, they gave me a 2014 A4 Quattro, wow, amazing machine, never driver Quattro before


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Hey beckermanex, you're not alone!

First time getting cold start misfires the other morning. CEL started flashing at startup but it went away after about 5-10 seconds. Then this morning when I started up, after about 1 second the RPMs dropped very low, struggled for a second, then stabilized after a couple rumbles. No other misfires or CELs any other time from what I can tell. Makes me think it's coil packs.. 

I'm gonna scan for codes this afternoon and see what I get. Could be happening because it's valve cleaning time, right? It's been about 50k miles. I would think carbon buildup would cause misfires during load and higher RPM though.. hm


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

BeeAlk said:


> Hey beckermanex, you're not alone!
> 
> First time getting cold start misfires the other morning. CEL started flashing at startup but it went away after about 5-10 seconds. Then this morning when I started up, after about 1 second the RPMs dropped very low, struggled for a second, then stabilized after a couple rumbles. No other misfires or CELs any other time from what I can tell. Makes me think it's coil packs..
> 
> I'm gonna scan for codes this afternoon and see what I get. Could be happening because it's valve cleaning time, right? It's been about 50k miles. I would think carbon buildup would cause misfires during load and higher RPM though.. hm


So far they're still diagnosing, have found that it may need new coils (pretty much assumed this) but there is raw fuel coming out the exhaust so it could also be the fuel injectors. They need to do more testing. Asked if I was tuned (I'm not, yet) but I guess that's common?


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

beckermanex said:


> So far they're still diagnosing, have found that it may need new coils (pretty much assumed this) but there is raw fuel coming out the exhaust so it could also be the fuel injectors. They need to do more testing. Asked if I was tuned (I'm not, yet) but I guess that's common?


Hm, my car's been stage 2+ for a while now.. wonder if my injectors are something to look at. I'm not sure I've heard of tunes causing injectors problems though.

How does one go about testing/diagnosing injectors?


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## kobrian85 (Oct 31, 2012)

beckermanex said:


> So far they're still diagnosing, have found that it may need new coils (pretty much assumed this) but there is raw fuel coming out the exhaust so it could also be the fuel injectors. They need to do more testing. Asked if I was tuned (I'm not, yet) but I guess that's common?


Wouldn't raw fuel at the exhaust indicate there is a consistent misfire? Also, if you have raw fuel at the exhaust, is your catalytic converter shot?

Mine is still having inconsistent/random misfires and last time I took it into my mechanic he was unable to get cylinder 2 to misfire while he had it hooked up to the computer. He is kind of leaning towards the wire harness for cylinder 2 needs to be replaced. I asked about carbon build up in the injection manifold or a bad injector itself and he didn't seem to think that either of those would lead to 11 misfires over a 2 week period. Then I have those random times where I start the car without the CEL on, drive 30 miles to work, start it again after work and my CEL is back on. Super strange...


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

kobrian85 said:


> Wouldn't raw fuel at the exhaust indicate there is a consistent misfire? Also, if you have raw fuel at the exhaust, is your catalytic converter shot?
> 
> Mine is still having inconsistent/random misfires and last time I took it into my mechanic he was unable to get cylinder 2 to misfire while he had it hooked up to the computer. He is kind of leaning towards the wire harness for cylinder 2 needs to be replaced. I asked about carbon build up in the injection manifold or a bad injector itself and he didn't seem to think that either of those would lead to 11 misfires over a 2 week period. Then I have those random times where I start the car without the CEL on, drive 30 miles to work, start it again after work and my CEL is back on. Super strange...


Strange all around, they're being in-depth because they want to charge as much (if everything) to my soon-to-expire CPO and they need to know exactly what it is in order for that to happen, $85 deductible vs. who-knows-how-much, I'll just let them have it for a few days, besides, they're going to have to pry this A4 away from me


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

kobrian85 said:


> Wouldn't raw fuel at the exhaust indicate there is a consistent misfire? Also, if you have raw fuel at the exhaust, is your catalytic converter shot?
> 
> Mine is still having inconsistent/random misfires and last time I took it into my mechanic he was unable to get cylinder 2 to misfire while he had it hooked up to the computer. He is kind of leaning towards the wire harness for cylinder 2 needs to be replaced. I asked about carbon build up in the injection manifold or a bad injector itself and he didn't seem to think that either of those would lead to 11 misfires over a 2 week period. Then I have those random times where I start the car without the CEL on, drive 30 miles to work, start it again after work and my CEL is back on. Super strange...


You're right about his converter having a good chance of being toast. My old car had one of the plugs foul and just after 5 minutes of driving I could feel he heat of the converter through the floor. It was glowing red. It had to be replaced after that, which was OK because I was ready to upgrade the exhaust anyhow.

Depending on how hot things get, couldn't oil seals in the turbo get toasted as well? 



beckermanex said:


> Strange all around, they're being in-depth because they want to charge as much (if everything) to my soon-to-expire CPO and they need to know exactly what it is in order for that to happen, $85 deductible vs. who-knows-how-much, I'll just let them have it for a few days, besides, they're going to have to pry this A4 away from me


Definitely keep us posted on what the outcome is.



I scanned for codes yesterday and here's what I got:



> 00819 - High Pressure Sensor (G65)
> 009 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
> Freeze Frame:
> Fault Status: 00101001
> ...


This is from the AC? I did notice my econ light wouldn't go off for about 2 minutes during a several hundred mile trip. Seems to be working fine since.



> 000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
> P0300 - 001 - - Intermittent
> Freeze Frame:
> Fault Status: 00100001
> ...



So random/multiple and cylinder 4 misfires. This morning when I started my car the RPMs suddenly dropped and then stabilized again, just like the other morning. However this doesn't seem to occur with any misfires. Any ideas?

I just ordered new coils and will install them next week.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

BeeAlk said:


> So random/multiple and cylinder 4 misfires. This morning when I started my car the RPMs suddenly dropped and then stabilized again, just like the other morning. However this doesn't seem to occur with any misfires. Any ideas?
> 
> I just ordered new coils and will install them next week.


Have you swapped coils just for fun and see if the bad ones are misfiring on other cylinders?


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

I would swap plugs and coils, and add an injectors cleaner to the gas tank, just my 2 cents.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

krazyboi said:


> Have you swapped coils just for fun and see if the bad ones are misfiring on other cylinders?


I have not yet, but am going to on my way out of work and drive around until the new ones arrive next week. Is it correct that cylinder 4 is the furthest to the driver's side? Coils were last replaced about 50k ago, so I'd say it's about time they start failing.




2006_A3_2.0T said:


> I would swap plugs and coils, and add an injectors cleaner to the gas tank, just my 2 cents.


I changed plugs about 10-15k ago but never changed the coils. Plugs look fine still. I'm using 1 step colder NGKs. I don't think injector cleaner is necessary as I only fill up with 93oct Shell V-power which has a ton of detergent already in it. I'd rather not dilute the gas at all.


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## kobrian85 (Oct 31, 2012)

BeeAlk said:


> Is it correct that cylinder 4 is the furthest to the driver's side?


I believe you are correct - They are in order 1 - 4, with 1 on the passenger side and 4 on the driver side.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

What's this 4 cylinder stuff you guys are talking about? :laugh:


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> I changed plugs about 10-15k ago but never changed the coils. Plugs look fine still. I'm using 1 step colder NGKs. I don't think injector cleaner is necessary as I only fill up with 93oct Shell V-power which has a ton of detergent already in it. I'd rather not dilute the gas at all.


yup could not be the case. I wonder why my last plugs lasted 1000 miles 
now I setted at one step colder too and so far so good. good luck


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

kobrian85 said:


> I believe you are correct - They are in order 1 - 4, with 1 on the passenger side and 4 on the driver side.


I'll just swap 1 and 4, so even if the order is wrong they'll still be swapped 

Thanks man



krazyboi said:


> What's this 4 cylinder stuff you guys are talking about? :laugh:


It's not the size that matters, it's how you use it! 

Right guys? 


penis.


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## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

Compressor pressure reads "high", so I can't get the system to kick over to cold...bringing to shop Monday.
Front wheel bearings are both shot...same trip to shop for that fix. 
Wheels I found and love are an et20 rear and I don't want to pull my fenders...complete and utter "le sigh" moment. 
Small air leak...going to get some good 'ole soap and water going tonight.


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

NBPT_A3 said:


> Compressor pressure reads "high", so I can't get the system to kick over to cold...bringing to shop Monday.
> t.


I have the same issue but the AC eventually gets cold. I have since purchased the compressor control solenoid to replace which many have said fixes the issue. I'm crossing my fingers.


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## kobrian85 (Oct 31, 2012)

krazyboi said:


> What's this 4 cylinder stuff you guys are talking about? :laugh:


Oh please, don't be all actin' like you don't have a 4th cylinder too.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

BeeAlk said:


> I'll just swap 1 and 4, so even if the order is wrong they'll still be swapped


Worth a shot to at least rule out the coils



NBPT_A3 said:


> Small air leak...going to get some good 'ole soap and water going tonight.


Don't forget to shake what your momma gave ya!



kobrian85 said:


> Oh please, don't be all actin' like you don't have a 4th cylinder too.


True...didn't think about that.


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

BeeAlk said:


> Definitely keep us posted on what the outcome is.


Bad fuel injectors on Cylinders 2 and 3 causing excessive fuel leakage and misfires. Shoring up the paperwork with the extended warranty company and will replace under CPO hopefully tomorrow. Until then, more driving fun in my loaner! Weeeeeee!


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

I swapped my coils today and found that the plug from cylinder 4 was very white and had all sorts of deposits on it. I've never had a plug look so bad. I hope this doesnt mean my piston was melting! The coil pack was also white around the end.


















They are NGK BKR6Es but am supposed to have BKR7Es which are a step colder. Not sure how I managed to put the wrong plugs in.. But this is the only one which looks so bad. Could a bad coil cause this, presumably very high cylinder temps?

Then while I was in there I spotted this mess:


















Looks like it happened today. Temp gauge never moved and I didnt get any codes or anything. Coolant level dropped to LOW but not any lower than that. Also no signs of oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil.

Any ideas where it could be coming from? For a frame of reference, it's below and ahead of the master cylinder, right next to (and on) the hoses going to the oil cooler, right below the cam chain area of the motor.

I'm not too happy right now :/


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

BeeAlk said:


> Any ideas where it could be coming from?


Looks like all the coolant was being blown back from the leak point so just follow the mess towards the front of the car and that's it right there on the top of the hose connection at the clamp.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

MisterJJ said:


> Looks like all the coolant was being blown back from the leak point so just follow the mess towards the front of the car and that's it right there on the top of the hose connection at the clamp.


Looking at the pics again, you're right I see it clear as day where it came from. I guess I just had to step away and take a breath. 

Any chance all of this would be related? Or do I just happen to have two simultaneous issues at the moment? That spark plug looks scary white to me, not to mention all the crap all over it. This is my first turbo car so I'm not too familiar with what's acceptable in this regard.

This obviously isn't going to resolve itself, correct? I'm assuming the hose or fitting needs to be replaced to stop the leak for recurring?


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

BeeAlk said:


> I swapped my coils today and found that the plug from cylinder 4 was very white and had all sorts of deposits on it. I've never had a plug look so bad. I hope this doesnt mean my piston was melting! The coil pack was also white around the end.
> 
> 
> :/


looks like burning oil in that cylinder, ring failure is a known issue on the 2.0

if the problem was related to wrong plug spec, they would all look the same, right?


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> Looking at the pics again, you're right I see it clear as day where it came from. I guess I just had to step away and take a breath.
> 
> Any chance all of this would be related? Or do I just happen to have two simultaneous issues at the moment? That spark plug looks scary white to me, not to mention all the crap all over it. This is my first turbo car so I'm not too familiar with what's acceptable in this regard.
> 
> This obviously isn't going to resolve itself, correct? I'm assuming the hose or fitting needs to be replaced to stop the leak for recurring?


New plugs, the correct ones, and new hose.

Few months ago I installed wrong plugs, the Denso IK20, because they are listed for this car and engine, but they have the wrong gap. I had to learn this the hard way, they didnt last a month working correctly, I thought the worst as the plugs were new. 

Get a good plier for those clamps, use a very small Philips screwdriver and squeeze it between the junction to loose and remove the hose, they get hard, very hard to remove, it looks like plastic from the pics. G/L


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

SilverSquirrel said:


> looks like burning oil in that cylinder, ring failure is a known issue on the 2.0
> 
> if the problem was related to wrong plug spec, they would all look the same, right?


Seems plausible, however I don't consume very much oil at all and there's no traces of oil coming through the exhaust. But the clumped up gunk on there would make sense. Does a leak down and pressure test seem like a logical next step? I surely hope I don't have to have the motor rebuilt 



2006_A3_2.0T said:


> New plugs, the correct ones, and new hose.
> 
> Few months ago I installed wrong plugs, the Denso IK20, because they are listed for this car and engine, but they have the wrong gap. I had to learn this the hard way, they didnt last a month working correctly, I thought the worst as the plugs were new.
> 
> Get a good plier for those clamps, use a very small Philips screwdriver and squeeze it between the junction to loose and remove the hose, they get hard, very hard to remove, it looks like plastic from the pics. G/L


Picking up new plugs tomorrow. I'll have to find some diagrams and figure out what hose I need to get.. Not sure if it's a shaped hose or if I can pick up a "cut to size."


As soon as I get home tomorrow I'll hopefully be able to clean up some of that mess to inspect things further.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Well I fixed my leak.. but in doing so I broke another fitting without realizing it until the test drive. This one was much worse lol :facepalm:

What better place to have your car die than right in front of a cemetery?









I tried refilling with water to get it a mile back home. I went through a gallon and only got about 1/4 mile. Luckily my buddy was able to give me a pull


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## REvolution01 (Feb 17, 2012)

Keep us updated on the leak(s)

From the prior pictures it looks like it was probably leaking at the secondary coolant temp sensor... bad O-Ring perhaps??

Sux for your breakdown, never fun!! :banghead:


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> Well I fixed my leak.. but in doing so I broke another fitting without realizing it until the test drive. This one was much worse lol :facepalm:
> 
> What better place to have your car die than right in front of a cemetery?
> 
> ...


BeeAlk, the fitting now broke is the plastic 3 hoses union? the lil' hose that goes to the bottle? the other day I broke that by my mistake. just curious its an easy fix. sorry u having trouble I hope u get it fixed soon, yeah is better to not **** with water leak and get it towed. g/l


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

So, while they had the thing apart changing the injectors, I had them take a look at the carbon build up. Wow, decided to just have them clean it while it was apart.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

REvolution01 said:


> Keep us updated on the leak(s)
> 
> From the prior pictures it looks like it was probably leaking at the secondary coolant temp sensor... bad O-Ring perhaps??
> 
> Sux for your breakdown, never fun!! :banghead:


Where's the secondary coolant temp sensor? From what it looked like to me it was leaking from the hose connecting to that one way valve (I think that's what it is). 

Not too big of a deal with the break down, it made for a fun afternoon and my buddy is always happy to be rescuing someone with his gear. I have a motorcycle to ride in the mean time 





2006_A3_2.0T said:


> BeeAlk, the fitting now broke is the plastic 3 hoses union? the lil' hose that goes to the bottle? the other day I broke that by my mistake. just curious its an easy fix. sorry u having trouble I hope u get it fixed soon, yeah is better to not **** with water leak and get it towed. g/l


Yup, that's the part that broke. That stupid little nipple broke clean off. It's only like $10 at the dealer so no big deal on that either. 

Hopefully I can get all the parts Monday and get to work on it.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

You wouldn't even be able to tell that anything was wrong.. maybe just a bit too dusty









But pop the intake off and move the battery and yich. 









I believe the initial leak was actually coming from the coolant temp sensor's o-ring like REvolution01 had suggested earlier. All other hoses and fittings are in great shape..









Well, except for the one I busted from not being careful during reassembly









Coolant flush hopefully tomorrow.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> believe the initial leak was actually coming from the coolant temp sensor's o-ring like REvolution01 had suggested earlier. All other hoses and fittings are in great shape..
> Coolant flush hopefully tomorrow.


Hi, in the end it was the oring? how to fix this, just a new oring there? thanks


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## REvolution01 (Feb 17, 2012)

Good thing you found the source of your leak. You can pick a replacement up from O'Reilly/Autozone/Pep-Boys/Napa they should have the same size and diameter (thats where I picked mine up when my A4 coolant sensor was leaking)

So you ended up breaking a flange?


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> Hi, in the end it was the oring? how to fix this, just a new oring there? thanks





REvolution01 said:


> Good thing you found the source of your leak. You can pick a replacement up from O'Reilly/Autozone/Pep-Boys/Napa they should have the same size and diameter (thats where I picked mine up when my A4 coolant sensor was leaking)
> 
> So you ended up breaking a flange?


Yup, the initial leak was from the o-ring around the temp sensor. I picked mine up at Audi since I had to buy the distribution pipe I broke anyway. $40 out the door with a $25 jug of G12 and the two parts.

I broke the small flange on this piece. You can see me holding the distribution pipe in my last post, but it's dark so it's hard to see where the nipple is missing.









Here is a comparison of the new o-ring on the left to the old on the right. You can see how the old one has shrunk considerably









Also installed the new (correct temp) plugs and gapped them down to .028 along with new red coilpacks:









It's running like a dream now, no signs of any leakage. I have a VF Engineering motor mount to complete my set of mounts the way. And if nothing else pops up beforehand, I still have cv-boots and a carbon cleaning in my near future. 

Thanks guys :beer:


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

Got her back on Monday, runs like a dream!

However, my clip on my armrest broke (FML), apparently you need to replace the entire lid, but there's leather and leatherette options on ECS, I have a 2008 preface, Premium Plus, anyway to know which one I have. Isn't leatherette just pleather basically?


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

I have premium plus model, 2006, and it definitely wasn't leather. I have my cover replaced with Alcantara now though.

How did that shop get pics of your intake valves before doing the work? Borescope? If so they must have a really nice one because mine can not manage to get pics of my valves..


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

beckermanex said:


> Got her back on Monday, runs like a dream!
> 
> However, my clip on my armrest broke (FML), apparently you need to replace the entire lid, but there's leather and leatherette options on ECS, I have a 2008 preface, Premium Plus, anyway to know which one I have. Isn't leatherette just pleather basically?


Check w/ AutoHaas on FB...they may have something.


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

BeeAlk said:


> I have premium plus model, 2006, and it definitely wasn't leather. I have my cover replaced with Alcantara now though.
> 
> How did that shop get pics of your intake valves before doing the work? Borescope? If so they must have a really nice one because mine can not manage to get pics of my valves..


Yeah, they scoped it to get the pictures, all I had to do was ask if they would email them to me and they did (was Audi Chandler, great dealership for anyone in the East Valley in Phoenix).

Really, all I need is the clip portion, but since I can't get it separate, I'll check out AutoHAAS, some people have had good luck at the junk yards but I think the A3 8P is still too "new" to appear there regularly.


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

I'll preface this by saying I'm not a car guy by any means so these questions may sound dumb, and they are, but fellow A3'ers are the best source of help 

Is it normal, on a very, very hot day, after using the car for a while, for the intercooler (?) or radiator (?) behind the grill to continue to run/spin after the car is off and the key removed? They temp gauge never went above the middle ground, but the car continued to run for a while. I opened the hood and it immediately stopped, I'm assuming I dissipated the heat and it clicked off?

Secondly, my driver's side door window is starting to make a "crack" noise when going up and down, it still does the full stroke no problem, but I'm assuming I'll need a new window regulator soon?

Thanks gents! :beer:


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Perfectly normal for radiator fan to continue running after stopping the car. In my old Sirocco the fan was so loud that I would be walking away from my car and people would stop me to say that I left the engine running.

Does the window "crack" at the very top as it closes completely? If so, try putting some rubber conditioner on the rubber around the window.


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

MisterJJ said:


> Perfectly normal for radiator fan to continue running after stopping the car. In my old Sirocco the fan was so loud that I would be walking away from my car and people would stop me to say that I left the engine running.
> 
> Does the window "crack" at the very top as it closes completely? If so, try putting some rubber conditioner on the rubber around the window.


Sounds more in the door than the rubber, only seems to make noise going down, sometimes up, but mostly down.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

MisterJJ said:


> Perfectly normal for radiator fan to continue running after stopping the car. In my old Sirocco the fan was so loud that I would be walking away from my car and people would stop me to say that I left the engine running.
> 
> Does the window "crack" at the very top as it closes completely? If so, try putting some rubber conditioner on the rubber around the window.


Yup gotta do that.


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## skotti (Sep 27, 2005)

*P1071*

CEL comes on JUST as I was turning in to the inspection station 
P1071. This is going to be a tough one to track down.:facepalm:


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

skotti said:


> CEL comes on JUST as I was turning in to the inspection station
> P1071. This is going to be a tough one to track down.:facepalm:


p1071 is a vw audi code??


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

skotti said:


> CEL comes on JUST as I was turning in to the inspection station
> P1071. This is going to be a tough one to track down.:facepalm:


PCV valve


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## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

I've got this noise when I accelerate from a dead stop with the AC on, but disappears when I turn off the AC. Air is still cold so that doesn't seem to be the issue. Has anyone had this symptom before, I'm thinking belt tensioner or maybe alternator? 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

Video of sound?


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

everfresh59 said:


> I've got this noise when I accelerate from a dead stop with the AC on, but disappears when I turn off the AC. Air is still cold so that doesn't seem to be the issue. Has anyone had this symptom before, I'm thinking belt tensioner or maybe alternator?


Original A/C?

Good news: You don't have one of the exploding compressors that require major repair and cleaning of entire system.
Bad news: You probably have one of the slowly dying compressors, like mine.

I replaced mine with a Sanden compressor and now my A/C works much better than it did than when the car was new.

If you want to further diagnose it you can take it to a shop and have them check if you are able to get full pressure from the compressor. Also, if it sometimes takes a minute or two to start working, that's a dead giveaway too.


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

MisterJJ said:


> Original A/C?
> 
> Good news: You don't have one of the exploding compressors that require major repair and cleaning of entire system.
> Bad news: You probably have one of the slowly dying compressors, like mine.
> ...


He can also replace the control valve. My AC would take 10-15 minutes to start cooling and would come on and off. First AC guy I took it too said high pressure side was too high and that I would need to replace everything. I replaced the control valve, AC starts cooling in less than a minute and is cooler than the first day I drove the car home.


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## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

neu318 said:


> Video of sound?


I'll post a video up at lunch, but to get an idea, I ran a test yesterday with a friend and I started the car and started revving the engine, and had no problems whatsoever, but the moment I turned on the AC and started to rev, the noise was very evident. It only seems to occur during acceleration from a dead stop, or while in P.



MisterJJ said:


> Original A/C?
> 
> Good news: You don't have one of the exploding compressors that require major repair and cleaning of entire system.
> Bad news: You probably have one of the slowly dying compressors, like mine.
> ...


Now that I think about it, it does take about 10-15 seconds to get cold, but I still want to verify that it's the compressor so I'm not burning cash. If I replace the compressor with a Sanden model, will it make any difference if the one in there now is a different model? Like a Denso...


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## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

Since everyone in the office is on vacay, my slack meter has significantly increased, thus it has allowed me to find a similar problem from another user. I found this on Google, mind you it's from a GMC truck, but it's almost the exact same symptoms that I'm currently dealing with. 

Here's the post I found.

I'll get the video up soon... just wanted to give you guys an idea of what's wrong with my A3 today...


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## skotti (Sep 27, 2005)

skotti said:


> CEL comes on JUST as I was turning in to the inspection station
> P1071. This is going to be a tough one to track down.:facepalm:


So- smoked the engine, no leaks found.
However- we've had several days of cooler weather (due to rain)- and the CEL light has gone away.
Anyone have any clue as to how a P1071 code (system mixture lean bank 1) might be caused by higher ambient temperatures- and what component might need replaced?
My shop suggests changing the 'PCV tube' (not the PCV itself, already did that with latest revision)- they say there is a newer revision out than the one I have installed (stock 2006).

Maybe I should just drive it when it in cool temperatures


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

skotti said:


> So- smoked the engine, no leaks found.
> However- we've had several days of cooler weather (due to rain)- and the CEL light has gone away.
> Anyone have any clue as to how a P1071 code (system mixture lean bank 1) might be caused by higher ambient temperatures- and what component might need replaced?
> My shop suggests changing the 'PCV tube' (not the PCV itself, already did that with latest revision)- they say there is a newer revision out than the one I have installed (stock 2006).
> ...


MAF Sensor maybe? Spark plugs?


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

skotti said:


> So- smoked the engine, no leaks found.
> However- we've had several days of cooler weather (due to rain)- and the CEL light has gone away.
> Anyone have any clue as to how a P1071 code (system mixture lean bank 1) might be caused by higher ambient temperatures- and what component might need replaced?
> My shop suggests changing the 'PCV tube' (not the PCV itself, already did that with latest revision)- they say there is a newer revision out than the one I have installed (stock 2006).
> ...


http://www.bshspeedshop.com/bshstore/products/BSH-%2d-FSI-2.0T-PCV-Revamp.html


that solved my P0172 code. Ive heard that the new version PCV still craps out after a while. just my 2 cents. oh Iam loving the springs thanks man.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

The other day I took video of my motor running for before/after comparison for when I replace the cam chain and tensioner. Upon review of the video I noticed I have a pronounced "chirp" at idle.. looks like my drive belt tensioner is on its way out. I took a look at my car this morning and sure enough the tensioner was bouncing around quite a bit.

Parts are ordered. 

That's what I like about this car. As soon as I am teed up to take care of one issue another one presents itself. Good thing I like wrenching..


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> The other day I took video of my motor running for before/after comparison for when I replace the cam chain and tensioner. Upon review of the video I noticed I have a pronounced "chirp" at idle.. looks like my drive belt tensioner is on its way out. I took a look at my car this morning and sure enough the tensioner was bouncing around quite a bit.
> 
> Parts are ordered.
> 
> That's what I like about this car. As soon as I am teed up to take care of one issue another one presents itself. Good thing I like wrenching..


yeah this car gives so much things to do on it. Right now Iam thinking on new motor mounts, but at the same time I need to change fluids, T-belt, new dampers and so on. It never ends.


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

neu318 said:


> He can also replace the control valve. My AC would take 10-15 minutes to start cooling and would come on and off. First AC guy I took it too said high pressure side was too high and that I would need to replace everything. I replaced the control valve, AC starts cooling in less than a minute and is cooler than the first day I drove the car home.


It is possible that it is only the control valve. You would have to drain the system, replace valve, and fill system to find out. If it was a compressor issue you would then have to repeat the drain and fill all over again. But here's my reasons for thinking it's the compressor instead of just the control valve:
A/C is making noise.
No noticeable loss of performance yet.
All A/C systems from early 2.0t models have compressors that either explode or slowly fail, depending on the brand.

Besides, the A/C compressors on the 2.0t (non-Sanden) suck anyway so putting in a Sanden is worth the upgrade.

Here's my old compressor and the new Sanden. If your compressor looks like mine, it is one that tends to fail slowly:


----------



## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

Here's the video of the noise, you can clearly hear it at around the 27 second mark.


----------



## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

MisterJJ said:


> It is possible that it is only the control valve. You would have to drain the system, replace valve, and fill system to find out. If it was a compressor issue you would then have to repeat the drain and fill all over again. But here's my reasons for thinking it's the compressor instead of just the control valve:
> A/C is making noise.
> No noticeable loss of performance yet.
> All A/C systems from early 2.0t models have compressors that either explode or slowly fail, depending on the brand.
> ...




:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

Damn... thats gonna be a lot of work...


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

everfresh59 said:


> Damn... thats gonna be a lot of work...


It took the guy less than 6 minutes...


----------



## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

BeeAlk said:


> It took the guy less than 6 minutes...


Damn NINJA'S!


----------



## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

Here is my latest after beating the snot out of it all weekend...






knock knock


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## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

everfresh59 said:


> Damn... thats gonna be a lot of work...


You can access the compressor from underneath the vehicle without removing any other parts (accept the accessory belt). It's a bit of a tetris game getting it in and out, but it should only take about an hour.


----------



## aznsap (Aug 7, 2010)

NBPT_A3 said:


> You can access the compressor from underneath the vehicle without removing any other parts (accept the accessory belt). It's a bit of a tetris game getting it in and out, but it should only take about an hour.


why did he remove the front bumper? and what did he put in front of the intercooler?


----------



## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

aznsap said:


> why did he remove the front bumper? and what did he put in front of the intercooler?



The condenser


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

I wish there was an AC only shop like that one over here.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

We swapped out my AC compressor and Alternator without dropping the bumper (on the old 3.2) its a little tight, but doable. Condenser, not a chance.


----------



## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

Thankfully nothing is _wrong_ today, but last night my friend slapped his phone down on top of my V2 controller and we began to air-out at 40mph on Memorial Drive in Cambridge :banghead:. Luckily I got my hand there fast enough to throw his phone to the back seat and cancel the function with only a split-moment of what sounded like the bumper scraping. No leaking fluids as of this morning, as I feared the oil pan would have ruptured had I not reacted fast enough.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

NBPT_A3 said:


> Thankfully nothing is _wrong_ today, but last night my friend slapped his phone down on top of my V2 controller and we began to air-out at 40mph on Memorial Drive in Cambridge :banghead:. Luckily I got my hand there fast enough to throw his phone to the back seat and cancel the function with only a split-moment of what sounded like the bumper scraping. No leaking fluids as of this morning, as I feared the oil pan would have ruptured had I not reacted fast enough.


Being ignorant about air setups, I've always wondered if there was a sort of fail safe to prevent this from happening. Some sort of speed sensor that doesn't allow airing out at speed.


----------



## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

BeeAlk said:


> Being ignorant about air setups, I've always wondered if there was a sort of fail safe to prevent this from happening. Some sort of speed sensor that doesn't allow airing out at speed.


That would be a good feature, or a lock out on the pad that requires you to input a sequence...but that could also end terribly


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

NBPT_A3 said:


> Thankfully nothing is _wrong_ today, but last night my friend slapped his phone down on top of my V2 controller and we began to air-out at 40mph on Memorial Drive in Cambridge :banghead:. Luckily I got my hand there fast enough to throw his phone to the back seat and cancel the function with only a split-moment of what sounded like the bumper scraping. No leaking fluids as of this morning, as I feared the oil pan would have ruptured had I not reacted fast enough.


You need a list of those who cannot sit in the front passenger seat.

They will be #1.


----------



## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

JRutter said:


> Here is my latest after beating the snot out of it all weekend...
> 
> 
> 
> knock knock


 So turns out this is the sound of a crank pulley bolt that has loosened. Back on the road with no noise now...


----------



## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

krazyboi said:


> You need a list of those who cannot sit in the front passenger seat.
> 
> They will be #1.


I think I'm going to remove it all together...along with my rear seat.


----------



## Donkey-Punch (Feb 6, 2011)

So my wife's A3 snapped the timing chain inside the head back in april. havent had time to diagnose it so finally took it to HB motorworks here in chesapeake VA since I know Paul personally and he's gonna do it on the side for cheaper.

Found out that the head is ok but all the valves are trashed, needs new cams and obviously the chain. Luckily I got that head off here a few months ago that the fa**ott scammed me on that has some useable parts, so the bill is ONLY going to be about $1500


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Donkey-Punch said:


> So my wife's A3 snapped the timing chain inside the head back in april. havent had time to diagnose it so finally took it to HB motorworks here in chesapeake VA since I know Paul personally and he's gonna do it on the side for cheaper.
> 
> Found out that the head is ok but all the valves are trashed, needs new cams and obviously the chain. Luckily I got that head off here a few months ago that the fa**ott scammed me on that has some useable parts, so the bill is ONLY going to be about $1500


Who's the dbag? It's good to know so we don't buy off them.


----------



## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

MisterJJ said:


> Original A/C?
> 
> Good news: You don't have one of the exploding compressors that require major repair and cleaning of entire system.
> Bad news: You probably have one of the slowly dying compressors, like mine.
> ...


So I'm probably going to replace the AC compressor since you're assessment seems to be spot on that it's slowly dying. Do you think I'd have to replace the expansion valve also? I figure I can simply replace just the compressor and the receiver/dryer and I'm good.... thoughts?


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

everfresh59 said:


> So I'm probably going to replace the AC compressor since you're assessment seems to be spot on that it's slowly dying. Do you think I'd have to replace the expansion valve also? I figure I can simply replace just the compressor and the receiver/dryer and I'm good.... thoughts?


While you're at it you should replace the expansion valve. It may be clogged or dirty. Just FYI I believe the expansion valve is located in the cabin behind the dashboard. Might be a pain in the ass to get to.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

everfresh59 said:


> Do you think I'd have to replace the expansion valve also?


No, I don't think you would have to replace the expansion valve. But I found it was cheaper to buy a kit that included the receiver/dryer, oil, O-rings, and expansion valve. So I figured that while I've got the system open I might as well do the valve at the same time.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

neu318 said:


> While you're at it you should replace the expansion valve. It may be clogged or dirty. Just FYI I believe the expansion valve is located in the cabin behind the dashboard. Might be a pain in the ass to get to.


It's on the firewall, right behind the engine. Kind of a pain to get to, but not terrible. Mine looked clean and perfect but YMMV.


----------



## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

MisterJJ said:


> It's on the firewall, right behind the engine. Kind of a pain to get to, but not terrible. Mine looked clean and perfect but YMMV.


On the 3.2 it's inside the cabin behind the dash for some reason, not sure why.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

This morning my car stalled immediately after starting two times in a row. The third time it idled roughly for 5-10 seconds and then was fine the rest of the way to work.. that's a first for me.

I'm excited to see how this will manifest itself.


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## TOYPAJ (Sep 30, 2012)

A rattle through my glovebox :/


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## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

neu318 said:


> While you're at it you should replace the expansion valve. It may be clogged or dirty. Just FYI I believe the expansion valve is located in the cabin behind the dashboard. Might be a pain in the ass to get to.


I always assumed the AC compressor can be pulled out from under the car, but I'm guessing I'd have to go the long route and move the rad support forward an inch or two. Dangit, that sucks! lol.

Is this one compatible for an 06A3? PN is correct but it doesn't display it when I check for compatibility...


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

everfresh59 said:


> I always assumed the AC compressor can be pulled out from under the car, but I'm guessing I'd have to go the long route and move the rad support forward an inch or two. Dangit, that sucks! lol.
> 
> Is this one compatible for an 06A3? PN is correct but it doesn't display it when I check for compatibility...


Keep searching, I know there is one for the 06 A3. I know there was an AC thread here somewhere that had a link to the correct one. I think maybe MisterJJ knows.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

everfresh59 said:


> I always assumed the AC compressor can be pulled out from under the car, but I'm guessing I'd have to go the long route and move the rad support forward an inch or two. Dangit, that sucks! lol.
> 
> Is this one compatible for an 06A3? PN is correct but it doesn't display it when I check for compatibility...


I believe that A/C compressors for VW and Audi with either 2.0t or 3.2l engines are all compatible, but official compatibility lists vary. The Sanden I got was listed for the 3.2l only but I have the 2.0t.

If you are just doing the compressor, it can come out the bottom, but I've heard it's a tight fit. To do the receiver/drier you have to take off the bumper cover and other stuff so at that point it's easier to get it out from the front.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> This morning my car stalled immediately after starting two times in a row. The third time it idled roughly for 5-10 seconds and then was fine the rest of the way to work.. that's a first for me.
> 
> I'm excited to see how this will manifest itself.


Could be carbon buildup?
How many miles your car has? tune? could be related to the cam chain work?


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> Could be carbon buildup?
> How many miles your car has? tune? could be related to the cam chain work?


Could definitely be carbon buildup. I haven't had any issues since, though. 

Doubt it's related to the cam chain.. I'm not going to worry about it unless it does it again or more frequently.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> Could definitely be carbon buildup. I haven't had any issues since, though.
> 
> Doubt it's related to the cam chain.. I'm not going to worry about it unless it does it again or more frequently.


this looks promising

http://forums.fourtitude.com/showth...ke-Valve-Cleaning-DIY&p=86117860#post86117860


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## tcardio1 (Mar 25, 2014)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> this looks promising
> 
> http://forums.fourtitude.com/showth...ke-Valve-Cleaning-DIY&p=86117860#post86117860


 FSI engines suck. I hate carbon


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

tcardio1 said:


> FSI engines suck. I hate carbon


3,2 ftw


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

tcardio1 said:


> FSI engines suck. I hate carbon


155k miles and never a carbon clean up or issue because of it 

Will do a clean up because of what Ive read over here and the above link showing the easy way though. . Just because I like to be on top of things eace:


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## TOYPAJ (Sep 30, 2012)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> this looks promising
> 
> http://forums.fourtitude.com/showth...ke-Valve-Cleaning-DIY&p=86117860#post86117860


say whaaat


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## skotti (Sep 27, 2005)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> this looks promising
> 
> http://forums.fourtitude.com/showth...ke-Valve-Cleaning-DIY&p=86117860#post86117860


Not sure where he got the list of what's in CRC- diesel??? The website has 75% by volume of acetone. No mention of 'fuel', either. I'm not a chemist, but where did he get those in CRC?
I'd like to get some sort of confirmation that his mixture won't eff-up my engine before I try this- until then, I'd use the CRC formula, at least it's safe. Not sure it will give the same results as his mixture, but at least it won't cause any issues.
If anyone can find some evidence this guy's mixture is safe, please chime in- this could be significant for A3 owners!

EDIT: This guy used Seafoam, but he modified the way he introduced the solvent into the port. Not sure which would be better, but this one is pretty simple:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i9wAeJeA24Y


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## kobrian85 (Oct 31, 2012)

Dropped it off at the mechanic this morning to have the timing belt and water pump replaced. No failure, just being proactive.


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## aznsap (Aug 7, 2010)

skotti said:


> Not sure where he got the list of what's in CRC- diesel??? The website has 75% by volume of acetone. No mention of 'fuel', either. I'm not a chemist, but where did he get those in CRC?
> I'd like to get some sort of confirmation that his mixture won't eff-up my engine before I try this- until then, I'd use the CRC formula, at least it's safe. Not sure it will give the same results as his mixture, but at least it won't cause any issues.
> If anyone can find some evidence this guy's mixture is safe, please chime in- this could be significant for A3 owners!
> 
> ...



i'd think about using the solvent cleaners, but if there's several tens of thousands of miles of hard buildup, i don't see how spraying stuff in there will get it off. until we have more evidence, i think the best thing to do is a manual cleaning if it's been a long time or never cleaned, and then using the solvent cleaners for the intake valves maybe every 10k or something like that.

i had to replace a bad thermostat on my car at 49K just a few weeks ago, so ended up doing the valve cleaning as well for the first time:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7015690-Cam-follower-intake-valve-cleaning-thermostat-semi-DIY

i just can't imagine solvent getting all that hard stuff off--but after doing a manual cleaning i think i'll give the CRC intake valve cleaner a shot maybe every 5-10k miles.


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## skotti (Sep 27, 2005)

aznsap said:


> i'd think about using the solvent cleaners, but if there's several tens of thousands of miles of hard buildup, i don't see how spraying stuff in there will get it off. until we have more evidence, i think the best thing to do is a manual cleaning if it's been a long time or never cleaned, and then using the solvent cleaners for the intake valves maybe every 10k or something like that.
> 
> i had to replace a bad thermostat on my car at 49K just a few weeks ago, so ended up doing the valve cleaning as well for the first time:
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7015690-Cam-follower-intake-valve-cleaning-thermostat-semi-DIY
> ...


The guy did post some bore scope pics (crappy quality)- the stuff appeared to work.
I had BG service done some time ago, and I noticed a significant improvement. May not have been 100% clean! but apparently enough to be noticeable.
The wife has a Chevy Equinox with a direct inject engine, suppose I'll have to keep an eye on that one, too.


----------



## L_A_456 (Apr 8, 2011)

Driver window won't roll down. Now I have to figure out if it's the switch or regulator.


----------



## FinderRO (Sep 17, 2012)

L_A_456 said:


> Driver window won't roll down. Now I have to figure out if it's the switch or regulator.


Use your remote to lower all windows. If the drive window doesn't go down it's the regulator, if it does it's the switch.


----------



## L_A_456 (Apr 8, 2011)

i used the key in the door lock, the driver's window won't go up or down like the others. i have a vagcom and it said this... 

42-door elect, driver -- status: malfunction 0010

address 42: door elect, driver labels: 8p0-959-801-min3.lbl
part no sw: 8p0 959 801 k hw: 8p0 959 801 k
component: tuer-sg h03 0060
coding: 0001209
shop #: wsc 06314 000 00000
vcid: 438f7d9c020c5206c65-8016

2 faults found:

00932 - electric window motor; driver side (v147)
012 - electrical fault in circuit

00928 - locking module for central locking; front driver side (f220)
008 - implausible signal - intermittent


so it's the motor? because before the window quit, it did act strange, slow response, but no crunching noises. i got it to roll all the way up and then it quit/died.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

May have a oil leak/seeping somewhere. Was driving this past weekend and got the min. oil light. As I usually do, I added about 1/3 liter into the car, which I usually do 1/2 and lasts me quite some mileage. Drove about 150 miles and the light came on again. I topped the car off w/ the remaining 2/3s liter and was able to drive the 180 miles home no problem. Now I await to see when I get the light again.

Besides the obvious look under the car for leaks, is there a way to do a leak/smoke test to see where else oil may be leaking?


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

Visual inspection with a flashlight.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

krazyboi said:


> May have a oil leak/seeping somewhere. Was driving this past weekend and got the min. oil light. As I usually do, I added about 1/3 liter into the car, which I usually do 1/2 and lasts me quite some mileage. Drove about 150 miles and the light came on again. I topped the car off w/ the remaining 2/3s liter and was able to drive the 180 miles home no problem. Now I await to see when I get the light again.
> 
> Besides the obvious look under the car for leaks, is there a way to do a leak/smoke test to see where else oil may be leaking?


I just developed a small oil leak too.. mine is my fault though.. stripped a screw on the cam chain cover when I replaced my tensioner a couple weeks ago.

As far as pinpointing your leak, if it's a mess in your engine bay from oil spray - only real way is to degrease your engine and then run it.. then get in/under and look for where it's coming from. As an alternative, you can use a fluorescent tracer dye that glows under UV/black light..


----------



## a4000 (Apr 23, 2009)

L_A_456 said:


> i used the key in the door lock, the driver's window won't go up or down like the others. i have a vagcom and it said this...
> 
> 42-door elect, driver -- status: malfunction 0010
> 
> ...


First thing I would look at is a broken wire in the door hinge, peel back the rubber boot and inspect. The wires often break here.


----------



## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

krazyboi said:


> May have a oil leak/seeping somewhere. Was driving this past weekend and got the min. oil light. As I usually do, I added about 1/3 liter into the car, which I usually do 1/2 and lasts me quite some mileage. Drove about 150 miles and the light came on again. I topped the car off w/ the remaining 2/3s liter and was able to drive the 180 miles home no problem. Now I await to see when I get the light again.
> 
> Besides the obvious look under the car for leaks, is there a way to do a leak/smoke test to see where else oil may be leaking?


Have you checked to see if you have a shorting wire on the oil-level sensor?


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

BeeAlk said:


> I just developed a small oil leak too.. mine is my fault though.. stripped a screw on the cam chain cover when I replaced my tensioner a couple weeks ago.
> 
> As far as pinpointing your leak, if it's a mess in your engine bay from oil spray - only real way is to degrease your engine and then run it.. then get in/under and look for where it's coming from. As an alternative, you can use a fluorescent tracer dye that glows under UV/black light..


I don't see anything on the ground or around the intake manifold gasket area where I was getting a leak when it tore. Going to a mech. on Wednesday...will let him check.



NBPT_A3 said:


> Have you checked to see if you have a shorting wire on the oil-level sensor?


Nah, I opened the cap and it looked dry when topping off.


----------



## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

krazyboi said:


> I don't see anything on the ground or around the intake manifold gasket area where I was getting a leak when it tore. Going to a mech. on Wednesday...will let him check.
> 
> 
> 
> Nah, I opened the cap and it looked dry when topping off.


The unit attached to the oil pan under the car is the one I'm referring to, sorry.


----------



## L_A_456 (Apr 8, 2011)

a4000 said:


> First thing I would look at is a broken wire in the door hinge, peel back the rubber boot and inspect. The wires often break here.


Did that. All good. There is power going from the switch to the motor but all it does is click. I separated the motor from the regulator, and it's the motor that's a no go.:banghead: 500 bucks :facepalm:


----------



## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

L_A_456 said:


> Did that. All good. There is power going from the switch to the motor but all it does is click. I separated the motor from the regulator, and it's the motor that's a no go.:banghead: 500 bucks :facepalm:


Find a junker and check if other models in the VW/Audi family can lend parts.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

L_A_456 said:


> Did that. All good. There is power going from the switch to the motor but all it does is click. I separated the motor from the regulator, and it's the motor that's a no go.:banghead: 500 bucks :facepalm:


There's a ton on ebay for much much less. Won't be new but worth the savings..

Are these brushless motors? If it were me I'd be trying to crack the motor open to find a problem.


----------



## L_A_456 (Apr 8, 2011)

BeeAlk said:


> There's a ton on ebay for much much less. Won't be new but worth the savings..
> 
> Are these brushless motors? If it were me I'd be trying to crack the motor open to find a problem.


I found one at germanautoparts for under 300.
It's not the actual motor (i did crack it open, brushless and clean) it's the black box where the wires plug into, power gets to it and i could feel something inside clicking.


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

L_A_456 said:


> It's not the actual motor (i did crack it open, brushless and clean) it's the black box where the wires plug into, power gets to it and i could feel something inside clicking.


The locking mechanism for the rear door on the 2009 GLI was acting up so I searched and found that it was common for the solder joints between the wires and the circuit board in the motor to crack. I re-soldered the joints and it works fine now. You may have a similar problem.

Oddly enough, a little while later the light sensor for my garage door opener was acting up so I took it apart and found the same problem.


----------



## Donkey-Punch (Feb 6, 2011)

OK listen to this sh*t.

got all the head work done on the wife's car to the tune of $2100.00 (Which was paul at HB motorowerks hooking me up since I know him personally) SHould have been about $3000.00. New camshafts, new valves, head was toast so I had the spare casting I had swapped in. new timing belt, water pump, gaskets, etc etc.....







Starts the car up and the lifters wont pump up. ****. Waht the ****.

Pulls oil line on the back of the turbo, no oil pressure.

****.

pull the pan off and see this ****.



Thats the oil pump drive gear. SO NOW it needs an oil pump. 1.8T conversion here I come, and thats gonna run me another $1200 with install. FML


----------



## nxcess (Oct 18, 2010)

everfresh59 said:


> I always assumed the AC compressor can be pulled out from under the car, but I'm guessing I'd have to go the long route and move the rad support forward an inch or two. Dangit, that sucks! lol.


Compressor can be pulled out from the bottom. Remove the cooling fan so it gives you more room to drop it. Drill a hole big enough to remove the 2 bolts underneath the drier. This will be quicker than removing the radiator support.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Donkey-Punch said:


> Thats the oil pump drive gear. SO NOW it needs an oil pump. 1.8T conversion here I come, and thats gonna run me another $1200 with install. FML


Wait did this happen somehow after all the head work?? Or was this part of the initial damage? With the kind of carnage to the cams and such, why wasn't the pan ever dropped to look for debris in the oil pickup? WOuldn't that be standard protocol?

Sucks real hard man..


----------



## nxcess (Oct 18, 2010)

It's been a long time coming. The front bearings were bad; causing excessive tire wear on the inside corner. Should have taken a picture of the tire's camber before and after. Replaced my Zexel compressor along with drier. AC blows cold. The tech was able to get it down to 43°F 

Out with the old..









In with the new.. 









Zexel next to a Sanden...









Didn't feel like removing the radiator support so I drilled a hole underneath the drier..


----------



## kobrian85 (Oct 31, 2012)

I think this car either hates me or perhaps I'm just cursed...?

Some dickbag in a giant Chevy 2500HD didn't feel like stopping at the light... Mashy Rear...


----------



## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

kobrian85 said:


> I think this car either hates me or perhaps I'm just cursed...?
> 
> Some dickbag in a giant Chevy 2500HD didn't feel like stopping at the light... Mashy Rear...


Well at least you're alright! I hope she's repairable


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

kobrian85 said:


> I think this car either hates me or perhaps I'm just cursed...?
> 
> Some dickbag in a giant Chevy 2500HD didn't feel like stopping at the light... Mashy Rear...


Actually looks like it held up pretty well...depending how fast he was going.

I have to say, w/ all the accidents we've seen here on the A3, our cars hold up well.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

Did my 450k miles desert crossing from my city Iquique to Tacna, Peru.
Traspased the boarder with her.
Gonna doit again today or tomorrow. Wish me luck.
Overall the car did wonders. Went all thr trip without front liscense, only before arriving iquique a cop asked me for it but i put it on the windshield and no worries.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> Did my 450k miles desert crossing from my city Iquique to Tacna, Peru.
> Traspased the boarder with her.
> Gonna doit again today or tomorrow. Wish me luck.
> Overall the car did wonders. Went all thr trip without front liscense, only before arriving iquique a cop asked me for it but i put it on the windshield and no worries.


Is it that difficult to border cross in that area?


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

krazyboi said:


> Is it that difficult to border cross in that area?


no. its easy, depends how many ppl is there at the moment.


----------



## kobrian85 (Oct 31, 2012)

NBPT_A3 said:


> Well at least you're alright! I hope she's repairable


Yea, I was on my way to ankle surgery, so it was probably the most inconvenient time possible. My girl was with me and she said her neck was sore, so we went and saw the chiropractor last week to get a little realignment. Otherwise, the car should be fine, it was towed to the dealer right from the site of the accident and things are progressing.




krazyboi said:


> Actually looks like it held up pretty well...depending how fast he was going.
> 
> I have to say, w/ all the accidents we've seen here on the A3, our cars hold up well.


He wasn't moving much, we were stopped at a light, traffic started to move again then came to a halt and he said he wasn't paying attention when he hit me, he may have been moving 5-10 miles an hour.


The real kick in the teeth for this one - the douche appears to been on a lapse with his auto insurance at the time of the accident, and this thing falls under my uninsured motorist coverage, so I'm responsible for my deductible as well as the rental car limits. FML.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

kobrian85 said:


> The real kick in the teeth for this one - the douche appears to been on a lapse with his auto insurance at the time of the accident, and this thing falls under my uninsured motorist coverage, so I'm responsible for my deductible as well as the rental car limits. FML.


I really hate how this works. And what happens to him? Does he just get a citation for driving without insurance? That's probably less costly than your deductible and rental car fees. :screwy:


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## kobrian85 (Oct 31, 2012)

BeeAlk said:


> I really hate how this works. And what happens to him? Does he just get a citation for driving without insurance? That's probably less costly than your deductible and rental car fees. :screwy:


Yea, and they impounded his truck with a $2,500 bond, but really is only hit with the citation because the bond is cleared and he get's his truck back when he proves he has valid insurance, that's how I understand it anyways but I'm not certain. State Farm has told me they will go after him for the damages and file a judgement against the him, but I doubt that I'm first paid out if they don't recover 100% of the expenses related to the repair.


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

kobrian85 said:


> Yea, and they impounded his truck with a $2,500 bond, but really is only hit with the citation because the bond is cleared and he get's his truck back when he proves he has valid insurance, that's how I understand it anyways but I'm not certain. State Farm has told me they will go after him for the damages and file a judgement against the him, but I doubt that I'm first paid out if they don't recover 100% of the expenses related to the repair.


Euro tails on on sale, just sayin.


----------



## Shizuka (Apr 19, 2006)

On my way to the office. I really sympathise this A3 driver...


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Shizuka said:


> On my way to the office. I really sympathise this A3 driver...


Why? B/c stock height? I agree.

Kidding aside, hope they're ok.


----------



## jds215 (Mar 24, 2011)

kobrian85 said:


> I think this car either hates me or perhaps I'm just cursed...?
> 
> Some dickbag in a giant Chevy 2500HD didn't feel like stopping at the light... Mashy Rear...


almost the same exact thing happened to me two years ago...take the opportunity to add some fun things...euro tails, lower valence, etc.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

put 1000k miles in a week.

But just the CEL just came on. Everything's normal. I suspect bank 1 too rich. Gonna hook up Vag Com to see whats going on.


----------



## DG7Projects (Jul 12, 2011)

My paddle shifter (+) is kinda broken. It's hanging onto one of the 2 holes where the pin goes through. The other hole broke, so now I have to press onto the lower right corner of the paddle for it to shift. 

I think a new steering wheel is in my future. Last mod I'll ever to do my car.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

DG7Projects said:


> Last mod I'll ever to do my car.


Says everyone...yet never happens.


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

DG7Projects said:


> My paddle shifter (+) is kinda broken. It's hanging onto one of the 2 holes where the pin goes through. The other hole broke, so now I have to press onto the lower right corner of the paddle for it to shift.
> 
> I think a new steering wheel is in my future. Last mod I'll ever to do my car.


I has wheel.


----------



## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

kobrian85 said:


> I think this car either hates me or perhaps I'm just cursed...?
> 
> Some dickbag in a giant Chevy 2500HD didn't feel like stopping at the light... Mashy Rear...





jds215 said:


> almost the same exact thing happened to me two years ago...take the opportunity to add some fun things...euro tails, lower valence, etc.



Me three!


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

kobrian85 said:


> I think this car either hates me or perhaps I'm just cursed...?
> 
> Some dickbag in a giant Chevy 2500HD didn't feel like stopping at the light... Mashy Rear...





Shizuka said:


> On my way to the office. I really sympathise this A3 driver...





jds215 said:


> almost the same exact thing happened to me two years ago...take the opportunity to add some fun things...euro tails, lower valence, etc.





crew219 said:


> Me three!




__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> put 1000k miles in a week.
> 
> But just the CEL just came on. Everything's normal. I suspect bank 1 too rich. Gonna hook up Vag Com to see whats going on.


Scanned and threw multiple codes:

P1093 P0456 P0441 P2279


symptom is hard start after filling up.

Read lots of threads and N80 purge valve is the solution.

Anyone knows where is located so I can pull it and test it? :thumbup: thanks in advance !



edit:

threads:
http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?5320411-Mulitple-Faults-P1093-P0455-P2187-P0441-P2261
http://www.audiforums.com/forum/b7-models-71/2007-a4-p0442-p0455-codes-180150/
parts:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-A3-FWD-2.0T/Search/SiteSearch/Purge_Valve/ES281033/
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-A3-FWD-2.0T/Search/SiteSearch/8P0133781B/ES261138/ 
quick DIY:
http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119267


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> Scanned and threw multiple codes:
> 
> P1093 P0456 P0441 P2279
> 
> ...



If youre standing in front of your car the n80 is in the right corner of the intake plenum closest to you. mine made loud ticking before it went out.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> If youre standing in front of your car the n80 is in the right corner of the intake plenum closest to you. mine made loud ticking before it went out.


Thx man found it.
What could be those codes? When yours dieded..similar codes appeared? 
Cleared them and they havent appeared yet, suspect they are highway only codes.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> Thx man found it.
> What could be those codes? When yours dieded..similar codes appeared?
> Cleared them and they havent appeared yet, suspect they are highway only codes.


I didn't have any fault codes.. mine was just making a ton of ticking noise as I assume the valve was about to go out. I replaced it before it had a chance to become a problem.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> I didn't have any fault codes.. mine was just making a ton of ticking noise as I assume the valve was about to go out. I replaced it before it had a chance to become a problem.


thx man :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Iam getting this N80 purge valve asap. Might get it with the hose or not. desicions.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

My timing belt tensioner bearing started screaming at me yesterday. Looks like I'll be replacing my TB at 50k! 

Local german gurus spent an hour looking over my car, without an appointment, for no charge. Quoted me $680 for the full gambit, guaranteed work. Can't beat that! I was going to do it myself but my time is more valuable than what they're charging for labor. 

Now hopefully I can drive it home before it explodes


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

CEL on - rear O2 sensor.


----------



## Bezerker (Nov 12, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> My timing belt tensioner bearing started screaming at me yesterday. Looks like I'll be replacing my TB at 50k!
> 
> Local german gurus spent an hour looking over my car, without an appointment, for no charge. Quoted me $680 for the full gambit, guaranteed work. Can't beat that! I was going to do it myself but my time is more valuable than what they're charging for labor.
> 
> Now hopefully I can drive it home before it explodes


Good catch - can't believe it went after only 50k  At least you have some great local gurus - that price is an absolute steal. I think I paid around $750-800 for my timing belt service from a local, independent VW/Audi mechanic.


----------



## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

Ponto said:


> CEL on - rear O2 sensor.


Just use a generic


----------



## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

BeeAlk said:


> My timing belt tensioner bearing started screaming at me yesterday. Looks like I'll be replacing my TB at 50k!
> 
> Local german gurus spent an hour looking over my car, without an appointment, for no charge. Quoted me $680 for the full gambit, guaranteed work. Can't beat that! I was going to do it myself but my time is more valuable than what they're charging for labor.
> 
> Now hopefully I can drive it home before it explodes


Just make sure they're using quality parts. It's not uncommon for places to use cheap low-quality parts on timing belt changes. Even some of the large parts companies selling TB kits aren't using the same quality parts as OEM.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> My timing belt tensioner bearing started screaming at me yesterday. Looks like I'll be replacing my TB at 50k!
> 
> Local german gurus spent an hour looking over my car, without an appointment, for no charge. Quoted me $680 for the full gambit, guaranteed work. Can't beat that! I was going to do it myself but my time is more valuable than what they're charging for labor.
> 
> Now hopefully I can drive it home before it explodes


yeah I would get the parts and supply them. All OEM parts.

Also I would be all over them lol .. but all mechanix dont like that of course.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Bezerker said:


> Good catch - can't believe it went after only 50k  At least you have some great local gurus - that price is an absolute steal. I think I paid around $750-800 for my timing belt service from a local, independent VW/Audi mechanic.





crew219 said:


> Just make sure they're using quality parts. It's not uncommon for places to use cheap low-quality parts on timing belt changes. Even some of the large parts companies selling TB kits aren't using the same quality parts as OEM.





2006_A3_2.0T said:


> yeah I would get the parts and supply them. All OEM parts.
> 
> Also I would be all over them lol .. but all mechanix dont like that of course.


WELL - turns out the gurus were NOT correct! I got home and did some more prodding around under the hood. It turns out that if I stick a screw driver between the two halves of my accessory belt tensioner the noise goes away. I _just_ replaced the belt and tensioner about 1k miles ago with an ECS kit. Emailed the guys over there to see what they say. 

Much better than a failing TB! But, it's good to know that they can replace my TB for <$700 when the time comes, most likely early next year. And the guy said "OEM parts where we can," whatever that might mean. I guess I should have them elaborate on that when I see them again. 

Check it out:





Should there even be any play between the two halves like that?? :sly:


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> Should there even be any play between the two halves like that?? :sly:


Dunno.. gonna take a look. 
I would try to listen that with a long screwdriver.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Been getting intermittent traction control light on/off the last two days. Pulled my codes and came up with this; I'm more concerned about the ABS and Airbag:

(BTW, does anyone else that have LEDs have all these errors?)

Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1K0-614-517-MK60-A.lbl

1 Fault Found:
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 8P0-907-279-23-H.lbl

7 Faults Found:
00061 - Footwell Lights 
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101100
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 8
Reset counter: 98
Mileage: 149414 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.05.31
Time: 00:00:00

Freeze Frame:
OFF
Voltage: 9.50 V
OFF
ON
OFF
OFF
OFF

01504 - Bulb for License-Plate Light (X) 
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101100
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 22
Reset counter: 66
Mileage: 148743 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.04.21
Time: 22:33:00

Freeze Frame:
ON
Voltage: 11.30 V
ON
ON
OFF
OFF
ON

01800 - Light Switch (E1) 
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 101
Mileage: 152219 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.09.10
Time: 19:37:00

Freeze Frame:
OFF
Voltage: 12.00 V
OFF
ON
OFF
OFF
OFF

01117 - Generator Terminal DF Load Signal 
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 53
Reset counter: 88
Mileage: 150382 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.07.19
Time: 09:15:00

Freeze Frame:
ON
Voltage: 12.55 V
ON
ON
OFF
OFF
OFF

02195 - Dimmer Switch Instrument Panel & Switch Lighting (E20) 
009 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101001
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 101
Mileage: 152219 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.09.10
Time: 19:35:00

Freeze Frame:
OFF
Voltage: 12.10 V
OFF
ON
OFF
OFF
OFF

01496 - Bulb for Fog-Lamps; Left (L22) 
010 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101010
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 95
Mileage: 151919 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.09.06
Time: 16:55:00

Freeze Frame:
ON
Voltage: 11.40 V
ON
 ON
OFF
OFF
OFF

01500 - Bulb for Fog-Lamps; Right (L23) 
010 - Open or Short to Plus
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101010
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 4
Reset counter: 66
Mileage: 151341 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.08.23
Time: 17:27:00

Freeze Frame:
ON
Voltage: 13.35 V
ON
ON
OFF
OFF
ON
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 8P0-959-655-94.lbl

1 Fault Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+ 
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 224
Reset counter: 106
Mileage: 149471 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.06.10
Time: 19:28:19
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8P0-920-xxx-17-MY7.lbl

1 Fault Found:
16346 - Control Module - ROM Error 
014 - Defective
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000011
Fault Priority: 1
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 110021 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2010.04.17
Time: 07:40:39
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 1K0-907-530-V2.clb

1 Fault Found:
00463 - Control Module for Digital Sound Package (J525) 
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 254
Reset counter: 66
Mileage: 148573 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.04.19
Time: 11:15:55
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 37: Navigation Labels: 8E0-035-192-RNSE.lbl

4 Faults Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+ 
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 106
Mileage: 149471 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.06.09
Time: 18:22:10

Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 11.30 V

00446 - Function Limitation due to Under-Voltage 
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 12
Reset counter: 106
Mileage: 148743 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.04.21
Time: 22:34:15

Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 10.50 V
Mileage: 152490 km
Count: 1409
Clock: 20:46

16352 - Control Module - Electrical Error 
014 - Defective
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101110
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 225
Mileage: 112528 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.12.16
Time: 17:59:39

01044 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded 
000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 248
Mileage: 148573 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.04.19
Time: 11:16:00
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 42: Door Elect, Driver Labels: 8P0-959-801-MIN2.lbl

1 Fault Found:
00120 - Outside Warning Light/Door exit Light Driver Side 
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 8P0-959-433.lbl

1 Fault Found:
01565 - Luggage Compartment Light (W3) 
007 - Short to Ground
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 52: Door Elect, Pass. Labels: 8P0-959-802-MIN2.lbl

1 Fault Found:
00121 - Outside Warning Light/Door exit Light Passenger Side 
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio Labels: 8E0-035-192-RNSE.lbl

4 Faults Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+ 
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 106
Mileage: 149471 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.06.09
Time: 18:22:10

Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 11.30 V

00446 - Function Limitation due to Under-Voltage 
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 12
Reset counter: 106
Mileage: 148743 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.04.21
Time: 22:34:15

Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 10.50 V
Mileage: 152490 km
Count: 1409
Clock: 20:46

16352 - Control Module - Electrical Error 
014 - Defective
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101110
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 225
Mileage: 112528 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.12.16
Time: 17:59:39

01044 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded 
000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 248
Mileage: 148573 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.04.19
Time: 11:16:00


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

I have all LEDs, no problems ever. I don't really know for sure, but it's looking like you had a pretty serious short somewhere, maybe popped a fuse causing all the "lower limit exceeded" errors. Are your lights, instruments, and radio working?

Have you checked fuses?


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Everything works. I have always randomly got the LED license plate bulb out and the right fog (hid). My trunk lights go in/out sometimes too. Everything else works fine.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

I have leds but the glovebox, vanity mirrors (passenger side light not working), and trunk. 
Also aftermarket radio, no electrical issues whatsoever. 
Looks like a short of somekind?
Maybe put back all original bulbs back for testing.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Yea, I thought about swapping bulbs...but they all work, just get errors and some in/out


----------



## sethroid (Apr 19, 2012)

Two of the three battery tray bolts got goobered up removing/reinstalling the battery tray multiple times during the 3-day BFI transmission mount troubleshooting evolution I went through. I got a 6mm 1.0 pitch threaded tap and new bolts (N10482701) and they thread in like new. Not sure how they got messed up, but I didn't think I was going to get one of them out at all; it just spun in place. I eventually zipped it out of there with an impact wrench.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

krazyboi said:


> Everything works. I have always randomly got the LED license plate bulb out and the right fog (hid). My trunk lights go in/out sometimes too. Everything else works fine.





krazyboi said:


> Yea, I thought about swapping bulbs...but they all work, just get errors and some in/out


I suck with all things electrical for the most part, but I'd start at the trunk bulbs and fog. Check for burned up wires, connections, etc. Check all fuses and relays. 

How were your HIDs wired up? Do you know if they had their own in-line fuse?


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

BeeAlk said:


> How were your HIDs wired up? Do you know if they had their own in-line fuse?


They just use the original wires. I need to check it out one day b/c if I recall, it may just be ghetto rigged


----------



## L_A_456 (Apr 8, 2011)

Replaced the driver door window motor and window switch still no window movement up or down. Is there some sort of reset in the door? I can manually move the window up and down at the plastic crank. Even with the motor not connected to the door and all the wires all plugged in, the motor does not move when I press the window switch in the arm rest.


----------



## dman4486 (Jun 22, 2011)

Took my 24k mile Motivo in for a balance and rotation and came home with a new set of Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 in 235-45ZR17. Definitely thought a 60k mile tire would have done better than 24k. PICS!!!


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

I'm getting a short squeal when taking off from a stop the first few times. Only when A/C is on. Swapped belts with the old one (after first belt change I throw the old one in the trunk), and the squeal did not change.


----------



## icegrill (Nov 10, 2009)

Water pump failed at 8500 miles. Had to be flat bed towed into audi. I'm a little worried about this car.


----------



## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

MisterJJ said:


> I'm getting a short squeal when taking off from a stop the first few times. Only when A/C is on. Swapped belts with the old one (after first belt change I throw the old one in the trunk), and the squeal did not change.


Try replacing the tensioner.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

icegrill said:


> Water pump failed at 8500 miles. Had to be flat bed towed into audi. I'm a little worried about this car.


what how  8500 miles is kinda a short amount if mileage for a water pump... something's wrong there. Ahh I remember that there was problems with water pumps on TSI's with lots of revisions. Maybe this is not true but I think I read that somewhere once upon a time. Glad ithat Audi is getting care of and under warranty.


----------



## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

dman4486 said:


> Took my 24k mile Motivo in for a balance and rotation and came home with a new set of Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 in 235-45ZR17. Definitely thought a 60k mile tire would have done better than 24k. PICS!!!


:banghead:

Same boat here, light feathering started at under 15k:
1. Rotated and balanced at 15k, they had to add about an ounce of weights to all four tires.
2. Rotated and balanced at 20k, they removed about 1/2 and ounce from the rears, that were moved to the front.

At 25k, I will give them another chance, but if they have to add or remove any more weights . . .* Has anyone every heard of a tire needing to be re-balanced every 5k miles?*

Everything else about the tire is great, except they are very LOUD, especially from 25 mph to 45 mph :what:

I have been looking at the Michelin's lately, Super Sports or the A/S3's  I have never had a set, they have really come down in price :wave:


----------



## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

auto light and auto wiper error only occurs early in the morning. In the afternoon the error clears itself. Light sensor is on it's way out for sure, just don't want to spend $250 for a new one.:banghead:


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

I cant balance wheels. Vibration will always be there between 110 - 130 KM/H

Balanced the 4 wheels like 3 times.. did nothing. 

IAm thinkink of bad tires? (new ones but chinnesse) or bad wheels?

Or bad suspension component like control arms or tie rods or steering rack? 

Gonna rotate them and see what happens


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> I cant balance wheels. Vibration will always be there between 110 - 130 KM/H
> 
> Balanced the 4 wheels like 3 times.. did nothing.
> 
> ...


Chinese tires. I put all my money on that.


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## sethroid (Apr 19, 2012)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> I cant balance wheels. Vibration will always be there between 110 - 130 KM/H
> 
> Balanced the 4 wheels like 3 times.. did nothing.
> 
> ...


I had the same problem here. Goodyear Eagles I think. There was a defect or injury to one tire, which was visible when the tires were spun on the balancing machine.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

sethroid said:


> I had the same problem here. Goodyear Eagles I think. There was a defect or injury to one tire, which was visible when the tires were spun on the balancing machine.


hey man thanks for the chime in. Then I will go to the balance machine and visually inspect for deffects. The amount of vibration is huge, that means more likely is one of the front tires rather than the rears?


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## sethroid (Apr 19, 2012)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> hey man thanks for the chime in. Then I will go to the balance machine and visually inspect for deffects. The amount of vibration is huge, that means more likely is one of the front tires rather than the rears?


My preferred tire shop has a Hunter road force balancer, which I request to have done instead of the regular spin balance. They noticed the defect on the road force balancer; I'm not sure if the machine reported it, or if they could see it moving against the road-simulation bar (or whatever it's called). They wouldn't actually road-force balance them.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

sethroid said:


> My preferred tire shop has a Hunter road force balancer, which I request to have done instead of the regular spin balance. They noticed the defect on the road force balancer; I'm not sure if the machine reported it, or if they could see it moving against the road-simulation bar (or whatever it's called). They wouldn't actually road-force balance them.


I will look for one of those balancers. The one I go to have a Hunter device but dunno what kind. definetly not one of that ones. thx


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> hey man thanks for the chime in. Then I will go to the balance machine and visually inspect for deffects. The amount of vibration is huge, that means more likely is one of the front tires rather than the rears?


Normally if it was on the front tires you would likely feel it in the steering as well as in your seat. Rear tires would likely just be felt in your seat. However, our cars have electronic steering, so I'm not sure how it would cope with shake through the steering.



sethroid said:


> My preferred tire shop has a Hunter road force balancer, which I request to have done instead of the regular spin balance. They noticed the defect on the road force balancer; I'm not sure if the machine reported it, or if they could see it moving against the road-simulation bar (or whatever it's called). They wouldn't actually road-force balance them.


When I bought my wheels they came with tires on them, some no-name tires from China I believe. They cupped REALLY badly in the rear and caused huge amounts of vibration in the car - I mean the passenger seat headrest was shaking back and forth a good 1" or more. It was brutal. 

I had them tossed on a road force and it was something like 60lbs out of balance and it couldn't be brought down below 30lbs (not that I'd even be OK with that, the whole wheel would've been covered in weights). 

Long story short I ended up with new tires and have been vibration free ever since.

How do your tires look? Any weird wear patterns? They could be out of balance, out of round, or have snapped belts inside.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> Normally if it was on the front tires you would likely feel it in the steering as well as in your seat. Rear tires would likely just be felt in your seat. However, our cars have electronic steering, so I'm not sure how it would cope with shake through the steering.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


They are chinnese tires..

I need to find out wich ones are bad to swap them with at least two new tires.

I balanced them twice already, maybe they are out of round. They have like 5000 miles on them.

The steering wheel doesnt vibrate is more likely the whole car, I feel the front end badly and under the front seats. 

It goes away if the road is bad. The better the road the worse the vibration. Yesterday I had a can in the cup holders with some coins under it and it started to make sound.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> It goes away if the road is bad. The better the road the worse the vibration. Yesterday I had a can in the cup holders with some coins under it and it started to make sound.


That's kind of odd, I haven't really heard of that before. I guess you can't rule out suspension or alignment issues. Is road force balancing offered where you are? That could rule out tires/wheels.


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## sethroid (Apr 19, 2012)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> I will look for one of those balancers. The one I go to have a Hunter device but dunno what kind. definetly not one of that ones. thx


Locator: http://www.gsp9700.com/search/findgsp9700.cfm


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> That's kind of odd, I haven't really heard of that before. I guess you can't rule out suspension or alignment issues. Is road force balancing offered where you are? That could rule out tires/wheels.


The thing started to happen after new wheel/tires. Hope is not something else. Gonna swap wheels then change tires. thx !



sethroid said:


> Locator: http://www.gsp9700.com/search/findgsp9700.cfm


thx man. Iam outside the states though. eace:


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> thx man. Iam outside the states though. eace:


I personally knew this, but you may want to update your profile so others know...if you care.


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## mypixeladdiction (Dec 1, 2011)

2012 A3 TDI with about 29k on it. Wouldn't start this morning, couldn't even jump it. Thrown on the back of a tow truck and on its way to the dealer about 30 minutes ago. Thought for sure it was just the battery but we'll see.


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

I been getting ready to sell the car.
My opensky likes to open itself on really hot days. My golf also does that for some reason. I searched on froums for the golf problem and seems like the contacts needed to be worked on.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

tp.wannabe.s3 said:


> My opensky likes to open itself on really hot days.


Sounds like a nice feature to me! How thoughtful of VAG :laugh:


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

krazyboi said:


> I personally knew this, but you may want to update your profile so others know...if you care.


yeah man so true. I really didnt care at first but now that Iam posting more and more is odd. :thumbup: eace:


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## dman4486 (Jun 22, 2011)

azoceanblue said:


> :banghead:
> 
> Same boat here, light feathering started at under 15k:
> 1. Rotated and balanced at 15k, they had to add about an ounce of weights to all four tires.
> ...


Discount Tire had to balance mine every 5k as well. I would actually get a vibration as I approached the 5k mark.

I also noticed as the Motivo aged they got much louder.

The A/S 3 have WAY more traction than the Motivo did but the motivo were indeed worn out. One thing I did notice is that at the same PSI the A/S3 does not Pudge nearly as much as the worn out Motivo


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## Grey D (Mar 3, 2009)

azoceanblue said:


> :banghead:
> 
> Same boat here, light feathering started at under 15k:
> 1. Rotated and balanced at 15k, they had to add about an ounce of weights to all four tires.
> ...


Get the Super Sports, you won't regret them. I'm in love, and I swear they last twice as long as my PS2's did and I've definitely been abusing them. I'd say its one of the top 5 tires in the dry and unbeatable in the wet. My buddies Evo X runs them as well, they're a dream, just keep them well inflated... it seems more than 5lbs under and in a heavy car the sidewalls like to rollover in hard corners. The AS/3's are great for an all season, but personally I think all-seasons are pointless.


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

I have always had all seasons, and I mean always, time for summers ffs, I live the desert :facepalm:

I always keep my tires a couple pounds over oem :wave:


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

inflated the tires to 38psi and vibration stopped slightly.. gotta do some testing


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## mypixeladdiction (Dec 1, 2011)

mypixeladdiction said:


> 2012 A3 TDI with about 29k on it. Wouldn't start this morning, couldn't even jump it. Thrown on the back of a tow truck and on its way to the dealer about 30 minutes ago. Thought for sure it was just the battery but we'll see.


update: They're saying it must have just been a bad battery, no draw or anything to signal something else caused it. Tow and new battery covered by Audi.


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## TOYPAJ (Sep 30, 2012)

Coolant leak
Oil leak
Gold fluid leaning near tranny :/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Need new axles...

My god what a pain in the ass... Living in Canada has its downsides. 

However finally sourced some USA Industry (Empi) Axles. 

http://www.carpartkings.com/empi-front-right-cv-joint-half-shaft-80-6874.html

If anyone is interested for the future.


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## Taintted (Jan 25, 2014)

Ongoing misfire that comes and goes and now I believe my wheel bearings are on their way out. Humming noise that gets louder with speed and its not the tires nor is anything rubbing.


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## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

Taintted said:


> Ongoing misfire that comes and goes and now I believe my wheel bearings are on their way out. Humming noise that gets louder with speed and its not the tires nor is anything rubbing.


Bearings aren't so bad, got the front set for $220 from ECS, misfire could be as easy as a single coil, but just get an ignition tune up kit and eliminate the chances.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

Ponto said:


> Need new axles...
> 
> My god what a pain in the ass... Living in Canada has its downsides.
> 
> ...


Poto, this is for the right side in the description, what about the left one? is the same part?


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> Poto, this is for the right side in the description, what about the left one? is the same part?


Different Part's


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## Taintted (Jan 25, 2014)

NBPT_A3 said:


> Bearings aren't so bad, got the front set for $220 from ECS, misfire could be as easy as a single coil, but just get an ignition tune up kit and eliminate the chances.


Ironically enough I got brand new coils when i got the car, new spark plugs, 3m carbon cleaning kit, etc.. I've swapped coils around to see if the misfire moves but it didn't. Still stuck on cylinder 2, which is ironic because my old car has a misfire on the same cylinder. Still haven't figured that one out yet but that car is on the back burner for now. I had actually priced out the bearings and found the same set you are referring to, but because I got an aftermarket warranty on the car when I bought it and the deductible is only 100 I'm letting the dealership figure the wheel bearings out as well as the misfire. No sense in dumping more money into the car when the warranty will cover it. If they try to hit me up for a carbon cleaning I'll tell them no and do it myself.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Taintted said:


> Ironically enough I got brand new coils when i got the car, new spark plugs, 3m carbon cleaning kit, etc.. I've swapped coils around to see if the misfire moves but it didn't. Still stuck on cylinder 2, which is ironic because my old car has a misfire on the same cylinder. Still haven't figured that one out yet but that car is on the back burner for now. I had actually priced out the bearings and found the same set you are referring to, but because I got an aftermarket warranty on the car when I bought it and the deductible is only 100 I'm letting the dealership figure the wheel bearings out as well as the misfire. No sense in dumping more money into the car when the warranty will cover it. If they try to hit me up for a carbon cleaning I'll tell them no and do it myself.


If you got a warranty with only $100 deductible you are smooth sailing from here.. I'd even try to get the carbon cleaning covered.

If you swapped coils around and replaced plugs and it's still misfiring on the same cylinder then I would say it's almost definitely carbon buildup.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Dumb question, but w/ replacing 2 tires out of 4, should the new tires go in front or rear for quattro? The old tires are pretty good (need to measure depth), just forgot to rotate for a while.

Secondly, if my front control arm bushing is bad, should I just replace the bushings or replace the whole arm?


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## Taintted (Jan 25, 2014)

BeeAlk said:


> If you got a warranty with only $100 deductible you are smooth sailing from here.. I'd even try to get the carbon cleaning covered.
> 
> If you swapped coils around and replaced plugs and it's still misfiring on the same cylinder then I would say it's almost definitely carbon buildup.


Thats exactly were my head was at on this with both the humming noise and the misfire. I'll find out after I drop the car off tonight and they look at it tomorrow.


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## Taintted (Jan 25, 2014)

krazyboi said:


> Dumb question, but w/ replacing 2 tires out of 4, should the new tires go in front or rear for quattro? The old tires are pretty good (need to measure depth), just forgot to rotate for a while.
> 
> Secondly, if my front control arm bushing is bad, should I just replace the bushings or replace the whole arm?


I believe the new tires go on the back and old in the front regardless if its awd or fwd.


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## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

krazyboi said:


> Dumb question, but w/ replacing 2 tires out of 4, should the new tires go in front or rear for quattro? The old tires are pretty good (need to measure depth), just forgot to rotate for a while.
> 
> Secondly, if my front control arm bushing is bad, should I just replace the bushings or replace the whole arm?


1) New tires should always go on the back of the vehicle regardless of FWD, RWD, AWD, etc.
2) I am in the same predicament, but I am opting for replacing the bushings since they're relatively inexpensive.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Taintted said:


> I believe the new tires go on the back and old in the front regardless if its awd or fwd.





NBPT_A3 said:


> 1) New tires should always go on the back of the vehicle regardless of FWD, RWD, AWD, etc.
> 2) I am in the same predicament, but I am opting for replacing the bushings since they're relatively inexpensive.


Damn, getting conflicting responses. You both say they should go to the rear. A few others on AZ are saying they should go on the front due to steering.

Patrick, what are you thinking of for bushings? Gonna replace both sets of bushings for the fronts?


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

krazyboi said:


> Damn, getting conflicting responses. You both say they should go to the rear. A few others on AZ are saying they should go on the front due to steering.
> 
> Patrick, what are you thinking of for bushings? Gonna replace both sets of bushings for the fronts?



I always put them in the front, because the rear camber will do the same wear to the new tires, and because of security of having better tires up front.

but.. I could be wrong. Maybe theres a handling reason that new tires go in the rear? something related to oversteer? eace:


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## Taintted (Jan 25, 2014)

krazyboi said:


> Damn, getting conflicting responses. You both say they should go to the rear. A few others on AZ are saying they should go on the front due to steering.
> 
> Patrick, what are you thinking of for bushings? Gonna replace both sets of bushings for the fronts?


From my understanding the reason you put the new ones in the back is because the rear tires provide stability and if braking in wet or damp conditions with low tread on the back it can cause a spin out or loss of control because the fronts will disperse the water while the backs will go surfing so to speak so you'll spin out faster than you will have a chance to react to.


----------



## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

krazyboi said:


> Damn, getting conflicting responses. You both say they should go to the rear. A few others on AZ are saying they should go on the front due to steering.
> 
> Patrick, what are you thinking of for bushings? Gonna replace both sets of bushings for the fronts?


I'm going to replace both sides at the same time with OE bushings :thumbup:



Taintted said:


> From my understanding the reason you put the new ones in the back is because the rear tires provide stability and if braking in wet or damp conditions with low tread on the back it can cause a spin out or loss of control because the fronts will disperse the water while the backs will go surfing so to speak so you'll spin out faster than you will have a chance to react to.


This is the explanation I'd give as well. The rear is prone to lifting under braking in wet conditions, so by putting the new tires in the rear you greatly reduce the chance of hydroplaning and kicking out the rear-end.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

NBPT_A3 said:


> I'm going to replace both sides at the same time with OE bushings :thumbup:
> 
> 
> 
> This is the explanation I'd give as well. The rear is prone to lifting under braking in wet conditions, so by putting the new tires in the rear you greatly reduce the chance of hydroplaning and kicking out the rear-end.


thanks for explaning this with real facts :thumbup:


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Taintted said:


> From my understanding the reason you put the new ones in the back is because the rear tires provide stability and if braking in wet or damp conditions with low tread on the back it can cause a spin out or loss of control because the fronts will disperse the water while the backs will go surfing so to speak so you'll spin out faster than you will have a chance to react to.


This is bang on, living in the frozen north its very apparent. 

For people who run winters, even on FWD cars its better to have more traction in the rear. Stopping with control is always more important than getting moving.


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## Taintted (Jan 25, 2014)

Ponto said:


> This is bang on, living in the frozen north its very apparent.
> 
> For people who run winters, even on FWD cars its better to have more traction in the rear. Stopping with control is always more important than getting moving.


Exactly. Though getting stuck because you have tires that cant get traction in the snow is not fun either.


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## gls 1.8T cali-golf (Oct 22, 2007)

Just curious Ponto, but what were the symptoms you noticed that you need to replace the axles? 


Ponto said:


> Need new axles...
> 
> My god what a pain in the ass... Living in Canada has its downsides.
> 
> ...


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

gls 1.8T cali-golf said:


> Just curious Ponto, but what were the symptoms you noticed that you need to replace the axles?


While driving - Vibration and chattering of axle, moreso under load on the highway- thats your inner CV, the outer CV would be clicking when turning which would be more audible at slower speeds. 

The Boot also had a tear in it, so i knew it was coming... Just put it off far to long.


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## Taintted (Jan 25, 2014)

BeeAlk said:


> If you got a warranty with only $100 deductible you are smooth sailing from here.. I'd even try to get the carbon cleaning covered.
> 
> If you swapped coils around and replaced plugs and it's still misfiring on the same cylinder then I would say it's almost definitely carbon buildup.


Heard back from the dealership. Both bearings were shot so the warranty will cover it but will only cover up to 100 of the labor charges. So I have to pay for the deductible and the labor charges over 100. The misfire is due to carbon build up. They wanted 605 to do it. I was like yea um no I'll do that myself.


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## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

*In need of some direction here...*

So I tackled an oil change this weekend and while I was waiting for the oil to finish dripping I had a look around and noticed an excessive amount of oil covering a fair amount of parts not he driver side. I took a picture and this seems to be the main culprit. Can any of you give me some insight on what I'm looking at here and what is the likely culprit creating this mess?

UPDATE: just realized it's my diverter valve... I did replace this last year with the latest version, but could it be leaking because its loose? Or could it be something else? (Turbo Oil Return line?)


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

everfresh59 said:


> So I tackled an oil change this weekend and while I was waiting for the oil to finish dripping I had a look around and noticed an excessive amount of oil covering a fair amount of parts not he driver side. I took a picture and this seems to be the main culprit. Can any of you give me some insight on what I'm looking at here and what is the likely culprit creating this mess?
> 
> UPDATE: just realized it's my diverter valve... I did replace this last year with the latest version, but could it be leaking because its loose? Or could it be something else? (Turbo Oil Return line?)


Is that the DV valve? :sly:

Edit: oh just read the last.

I would check it. Hope someone chime in.. maybe its the turbo. Not sure though.


----------



## Taintted (Jan 25, 2014)

everfresh59 said:


> So I tackled an oil change this weekend and while I was waiting for the oil to finish dripping I had a look around and noticed an excessive amount of oil covering a fair amount of parts not he driver side. I took a picture and this seems to be the main culprit. Can any of you give me some insight on what I'm looking at here and what is the likely culprit creating this mess?
> 
> UPDATE: just realized it's my diverter valve... I did replace this last year with the latest version, but could it be leaking because its loose? Or could it be something else? (Turbo Oil Return line?)


I would double check to make sure its tight.


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## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> Is that the DV valve? :sly:
> 
> Edit: oh just read the last.
> 
> I would check it. Hope someone chime in.. maybe its the turbo. Not sure though.


I'll probably clean it all up, remove the DV and check it before re-tightening it. I really hope thats the only issue...


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

Ponto said:


> Need new axles...
> 
> My god what a pain in the ass... Living in Canada has its downsides.
> 
> ...



Can anyone tell whats the part number for my car? 

2006 DSG 2.0T FSI. both left and right. I think I need new axles:

odd of vibration on the highway, strange noises at very slow speed over rough roads. torn boots.


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## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> Can anyone tell whats the part number for my car?
> 
> 2006 DSG 2.0T FSI. both left and right. I think I need new axles:
> 
> odd of vibration on the highway, strange noises at very slow speed over rough roads. torn boots.


Use ecstuning to find your axles... On another note, I've had an empi axle for over 2 years and the boot has started to rip... But then again, you get what you pay for...


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

everfresh59 said:


> Use ecstuning to find your axles... On another note, I've had an empi axle for over 2 years and the boot has started to rip... But then again, you get what you pay for...


thx. Iam in a budget so I will get the empi or OE Parts. Just did a thread about it. feel free to post there or wich one of those brands would be better


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## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

2006_A3_2.0T, buy new boot kits from www.ecstuning.com. Pull the axle(s), have a shop R&R the boots, reinstall. Then get a Firestone Lifetime Alignment.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

lausch said:


> 2006_A3_2.0T, buy new boot kits from www.ecstuning.com. Pull the axle(s), have a shop R&R the boots, reinstall. Then get a Firestone Lifetime Alignment.


:thumbup:
that will fix my stock axles? Just the boots??? I mean the whole front end shakes, new boot will fix it ? thx !


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

Been having a small leak near the DSG filter for the longest time. It seems to have gotten worse. After some research it appears it's coming from the DSG cooler (mini radiator) that sits on top of the transmission near the filter housing. Going to go grab some seals during lunch and install in the morning hopefully that solves the issue. For those that have an older A3 with DSG might want to check that area make sure there is no DSG oil leak. For those interested there are two seals and the part number is: N91027901


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

neu318 said:


> Been having a small leak near the DSG filter for the longest time.


I haven't heard of that leaking before. But a common leak is the housing on the cylinder head that sticks out over that area. Oil can drip down unseen so make sure it's not coming from there.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

everfresh59 said:


> I'll probably clean it all up, remove the DV and check it before re-tightening it. I really hope thats the only issue...


The pic looks like your DV if you're looking up at it from under the car... is that right? I was a little confused by your post sinc you said the driver's side and it should be on the passenger side. Also, it looks to me like the leak is coming from the turbo oil return line, above the DV. At least it looks like the oil return line. That's a lot of oil, and while you may get some in the air piping and have it leak out the DV, that much is excessive. If it is coming from the DV, then you probably have an oil leak coming from the turbo but it's leaking into the air piping, or your PCV is broken and throwing a ton of oil into it. But it really looks to me like it's the oil line, and it's just dripping down past the DV and getting on the DV as well. Either way, the pic suggests that the DV is not the problem. Try and trace the oil up to wherever that line is coming from, you'll probably find it quick if you take off the air intake section above the engine and look straing down. Oil inlet and oil return line on the turbo are right next to each other, and above the DV.


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

MisterJJ said:


> I haven't heard of that leaking before. But a common leak is the housing on the cylinder head that sticks out over that area. Oil can drip down unseen so make sure it's not coming from there.



Thanks for the heads up :thumbup: I have a 3.2 so there really isn't anything above it except for the Brake fluid reservoir and it's dry. I'll keep you posted on my findings tomorrow.


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

Here is a pic of where the DSG fluid is accumulating. It's not a lot but it's noticeable. I also purchased a new filter housing just in case.

As you can see the only part right above it is the brake reservoir which is completely dry.


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## Fellow Gaucho (Aug 3, 2011)

Squeaking developing (in the direction of the center console from the driver's perspective). Happens when I brake (even at low speeds) and sometimes when I turn. It is like the sound of plastic deforming. My inside door handles make a similar sound when I squeeze them. Sounds like plastic being unsettled 

Any guesses what is making the noise?


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Fellow Gaucho said:


> Squeaking developing (in the direction of the center console from the driver's perspective). Happens when I brake (even at low speeds) and sometimes when I turn. It is like the sound of plastic deforming. My inside door handles make a similar sound when I squeeze them. Sounds like plastic being unsettled
> 
> Any guesses what is making the noise?


First time owner of VW/Audi? 

My first step is to remove any and all loose stuff from anywhere near the sound source, which can be rather deceptive as the sound likes to bound off windows and other objects, misleading you from the source. Then I try pushing on various pieces to see if I can simulate the sound. That usually fails, so I try driving around and when I hear the sound I again push on panels to see if anything makes it go away. After that fails, I turn up the stereo.

P.S. Your post count for this was 666, so maybe your car is just possessed by an evil spirit, which will probably be easier to get rid of than the squeak.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

Developing all kind of noises when parking and turning the wheel 180°. Well Iam near 160k miles what would I expect. 
Some new noise is driving me insane... like the axle shaft is craping out. If anyone has part numbers for both front axles EMPI brand would be nice. DSG FWD FSI 06'' thanks


----------



## Spab-2012 A3 (Nov 4, 2014)

*Right side lights are all OUT*

I purchased pre-owned & am now receiving the blessings.

I am now getting an unstable idle, right side lights went out just as the 55K maintenance is needed.

The dash let me know that the right side front & back and license plate lights are all out.

Brake light was replaced & not an issue. Turn indicator on the right mirror & rear are working even though the dash is telling me its out. Turn indicator on the dash blinks rapidly but the exterior lights blink normal.

The right headlight is out, right foglight is out, right blinker front is out... but day time runner is working.

Where would I start looking for the short?


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

Spab-2012 A3 said:


> I purchased pre-owned & am now receiving the blessings.
> 
> I am now getting an unstable idle, right side lights went out just as the 55K maintenance is needed.
> 
> ...


welcome to the forums and welcome to Audi eace:

lol I dont like stupid lights but they are common on those cars. I bet somebody will chime in as thats a comon issue on those cars. peace


----------



## Fellow Gaucho (Aug 3, 2011)

MisterJJ said:


> First time owner of VW/Audi?
> 
> My first step is to remove any and all loose stuff from anywhere near the sound source, which can be rather deceptive as the sound likes to bound off windows and other objects, misleading you from the source. Then I try pushing on various pieces to see if I can simulate the sound. That usually fails, so I try driving around and when I hear the sound I again push on panels to see if anything makes it go away. After that fails, I turn up the stereo.
> 
> P.S. Your post count for this was 666, so maybe your car is just possessed by an evil spirit, which will probably be easier to get rid of than the squeak.


You are correct!

Yes I saw the 666 after my post, I was looking for another thread to post in immediately after 

I am going to dig around this weekend.


----------



## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> If anyone has part numbers for both front axles EMPI brand would be nice. DSG FWD FSI 06'' thanks


Go to www.ecstuning.com. Once there, enter your make, model, year, etc. They'll have the axles, and the part number so you can shop around.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

lausch said:


> Go to www.ecstuning.com. Once there, enter your make, model, year, etc. They'll have the axles, and the part number so you can shop around.


yeah I already have the right side on wish list. but cant find the left side lol.

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2515332/ empi right side

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2770300/ bolt kit



and here's the left side, but it says this list is for "manual". my car is DSG 

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-A3-FWD-2.0T/Search/SiteSearch/Axle_Assembly_Left/

but, found them on Ebay too, EMPI right side too, and FEQ left side, both for DSG FSI 06-10. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-A3-Vol...iter_Display:2.0L&hash=item53f9b6139c&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Audi-A3...iter_Display:2.0L&hash=item51bd4ce000&vxp=mtr

maybe I go ebay route.


edit: well Iam realizing that the "manual" liste axle shaft are compatible with DSG. if somebody can confirm this


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

Accesory belt tensioner is making odd noises... Its going kaput. 

What do you think on the alternative at ECS? should I keep with OEM on this one?

OEM
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-A3-FWD-2.0T/Search/SiteSearch/Belt_Tensioner/ES252670/

Other brand
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-A3-FWD-2.0T/Search/SiteSearch/Belt_Tensioner/ES2538164/


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> Accesory belt tensioner is making odd noises... Its going kaput.
> 
> What do you think on the alternative at ECS? should I keep with OEM on this one?
> 
> ...


I went with the "Other brand". I'll tell you if it outlasts the OEM in another 130k miles... If I remember to.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

MisterJJ said:


> I went with the "Other brand". I'll tell you if it outlasts the OEM in another 130k miles... If I remember to.


Wow really is that good? If it lasts what err.. 100k lol it double pays itself.
Only thing is that a fellow member reported that it made odd noises after 1000 miles and got replacement. I think it was bad luck and gonna get it anyway. 

Side note: Mister, the dsg fluid change went smoothly, best method ever, It was actually not slow and I pressed on the bottles to speed up. Thanks for that diy.period.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

MisterJJ said:


> I went with the "Other brand". I'll tell you if it outlasts the OEM in another 130k miles... If I remember to.





2006_A3_2.0T said:


> Wow really is that good? If it lasts what err.. 100k lol it double pays itself.
> Only thing is that a fellow member reported that it made odd noises after 1000 miles and got replacement. I think it was bad luck and gonna get it anyway.
> 
> Side note: Mister, the dsg fluid change went smoothly, best method ever, It was actually not slow and I pressed on the bottles to speed up. Thanks for that diy.period.


Yep, I went with the _other brand_ and it was clunking loudly after not even 1k miles. ECS sent a replacement and it has been good for the past several thousand miles.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> Yep, I went with the _other brand_ and it was clunking loudly after not even 1k miles. ECS sent a replacement and it has been good for the past several thousand miles.


yeah Iam debating on getting the oem or the other. cant risk the tensioner shipped to Chile and then sent it back for replacement. desicions.. sometimes the cheap costs lots.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

BeeAlk said:


> Yep, I went with the _other brand_ and it was clunking loudly after not even 1k miles. ECS sent a replacement and it has been good for the past several thousand miles.


Yikes! Well... keeping fingers crossed. Maybe that's why ECS charges so much for shipping. They have to cover the shipping of replacements for defective parts.


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## Snifly (Aug 9, 2014)

ESP light stays on...


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Snifly said:


> ESP light stays on...


Did you accidentally hit the button?


----------



## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

Snifly said:


> ESP light stays on...


Any other lights as well?


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

Snifly said:


> ESP light stays on...


http://www.ross-tech.com/


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## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

NBPT_A3 said:


> Any other lights as well?


Reason I ask is that it could be a bad ABS sensor :thumbup:


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## Snifly (Aug 9, 2014)

NBPT_A3 said:


> Reason I ask is that it could be a bad ABS sensor :thumbup:


Didn't hit it by accident, can't turn it back on with the button and no other lights light up.

-S-


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## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

Snifly said:


> Didn't hit it by accident, can't turn it back on with the button and no other lights light up.
> 
> -S-


Take it into a local audi shop that has a code reader--so many possibilities.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

Changed the accesory belt tensioner because some odd noises. 

Well the biggest sound dissapeared, but theres still a metal with metal loud sound when moving from a stop on "D" or "R". Is torque related. Dunno if its the right axle or bearing


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> Changed the accesory belt tensioner because some odd noises.
> 
> Well the biggest sound dissapeared, but theres still a metal with metal loud sound when moving from a stop on "D" or "R". Is torque related. Dunno if its the right axle or bearing


Could be motor/trans/dogbone mount..


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> Could be motor/trans/dogbone mount..


Yeah that could be, it started to happen when installed the dogbone mount insert.

The sound comes from the middle behind the alternator, is loud sound like metal bearings or a bolt loose 

How can I determine if its from a mount? I just recorded couple of vids.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

THis is the metallic sound, I reproduced it applying at full the parking brake and the shifter on "D", leave it like that with some kind of "torque" and took the vid. help


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

definitely grenaded bearing..


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> definitely grenaded bearing..


Hope is that and not the valvrs or something else inside the intake manifold area.

Anyone can chime in if the alternator pulley have bearings and could be the culprit? Thx in advance


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

Ok I think I found the problem:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=336303

Ordering
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES6417/
and
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2570215/


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## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

Went back to OEM brakes, now my windshield spray nozzles won't work. Joy. :banghead:


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Well since the temp dropped below freezing my car is making a TON of noises now. Creaks, rattles, etc. One rattle in the dash above the glove box at 1800 RPM is SOO loud, like a buzzing sound. I'm going to lose my mind if I don't rectify it quickly.

My BFI mounts are creaking like mad too. The poly grease kept things quiet for almost a year I guess, but it's back again :thumbdown:



NBPT_A3 said:


> Went back to OEM brakes, now my windshield spray nozzles won't work. Joy. :banghead:


Sounds like you installed your brakes backwards. Common problem in these cars.


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## Snifly (Aug 9, 2014)

NBPT_A3 said:


> Take it into a local audi shop that has a code reader--so many possibilities.


Yeah... here's what I got:

01435 - Brake Pressure Sensor 1 (G201) 
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit

-S-


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

BeeAlk said:


> Well since the temp dropped below freezing my car is making a TON of noises now. Creaks, rattles, etc. One rattle in the dash above the glove box at 1800 RPM is SOO loud, like a buzzing sound. I'm going to lose my mind if I don't rectify it quickly.
> 
> My BFI mounts are creaking like mad too. The poly grease kept things quiet for almost a year I guess, but it's back again :thumbdown:
> 
> ...


so not makes a noise in reverse? what backward? front pads in rear?


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

SilverSquirrel said:


> so not makes a noise in reverse? what backward? front pads in rear?


Sorry, it was a bad joke. I was trying to say that putting your brakes in backwards leads to faulty wiper nozzles.


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## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

BeeAlk said:


> Sorry, it was a bad joke. I was trying to say that putting your brakes in backwards leads to faulty wiper nozzles.


Compounding humor with agony is a dangerous mixture, I don't blame you


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

Want to report that replacing my DSG oil filter housing and the two seals under the DSG oil cooler have stopped the random leak of DSG fluid.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

*FV-QR*

Diagnose please: I've noticed that my heater has never been really warm/hot when turned on, even comparing to my wife's Mazda. Say we both have it on 72 degrees, mine feels cooler.

Anyways, last night while driving in almost standstill traffic, I noticed cold air was blowing from the vents. I looked at my settings: 72 degrees pointing at face and feet. I turned the feet portion off and it was still cool. I turned the temp up to 78 and it was still cool. When traffic opened a bit and I was driving, the heat went up just a slight bit.

Does it make sense that when my engine cools down from idling, the heater stops working? I doubt it, so I'm curious what may be dying and needs to be replaced.


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## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

krazyboi said:


> Diagnose please: I've noticed that my heater has never been really warm/hot when turned on, even comparing to my wife's Mazda. Say we both have it on 72 degrees, mine feels cooler.
> 
> Anyways, last night while driving in almost standstill traffic, I noticed cold air was blowing from the vents. I looked at my settings: 72 degrees pointing at face and feet. I turned the feet portion off and it was still cool. I turned the temp up to 78 and it was still cool. When traffic opened a bit and I was driving, the heat went up just a slight bit.
> 
> Does it make sense that when my engine cools down from idling, the heater stops working? I doubt it, so I'm curious what may be dying and needs to be replaced.


I've noticed that anything below the 82 degree mark blows cool, regardless of driving scenarios. Not sure why, and my shop can't figure out why either


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## sethroid (Apr 19, 2012)

NBPT_A3 said:


> I've noticed that anything below the 82 degree mark blows cool, regardless of driving scenarios. Not sure why, and my shop can't figure out why either


I can't speak from experience with the A3, but with other cars, when the heat wouldn't work right, it was usually because of low coolant.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

sethroid said:


> I can't speak from experience with the A3, but with other cars, when the heat wouldn't work right, it was usually because of low coolant.


Hmm, I'll check that tonight.


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

NBPT_A3 said:


> I've noticed that anything below the 82 degree mark blows cool, regardless of driving scenarios. Not sure why, and my shop can't figure out why either


I have experienced this as well.


----------



## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

sethroid said:


> I can't speak from experience with the A3, but with other cars, when the heat wouldn't work right, it was usually because of low coolant.


I am topped up on coolant...maybe it's just German witchcraft :vampire:


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Just got a new sound... When the doors lock the rear passenger lock makes a loud buzzing sound after locking. Still locks fine and alarm arms. The sound reminds me of the door lock releases that a small jewelry or coin store would have where the store owner would have to push a button to release the door lock to let you in.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

sethroid said:


> I can't speak from experience with the A3, but with other cars, when the heat wouldn't work right, it was usually because of low coolant.


More likely a bad thermostat, our cars pipe up real quick if you are low on coolant.


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## GT1373A (Mar 27, 2002)

*Rear Hatch Sensor bye bye*

The problem today with my A3 is that I went to close the read hatch and when I went to sit down, I notice the "door open" light for my hatch on the dashboard. Door latches and unlatches just fine, but the light is always on, the alarm won't kick in, and my rear windshield wiper won't turn on. When I open and close the hatch now, I hear a rattling noise that sounds like something loose is moving around.

I asked the dealer for a quote and he said 400 for the part, 350 for labor. I guess I can live with the freakin light on my dash on.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

GT1373A said:


> The problem today with my A3 is that I went to close the read hatch and when I went to sit down, I notice the "door open" light for my hatch on the dashboard. Door latches and unlatches just fine, but the light is always on, the alarm won't kick in, and my rear windshield wiper won't turn on. When I open and close the hatch now, I hear a rattling noise that sounds like something loose is moving around.
> 
> I asked the dealer for a quote and he said 400 for the part, 350 for labor. I guess I can live with the freakin light on my dash on.


Why don't you just pop off the rear hatch trim and peak around? It's like 2 screws and a the rest is clips.. super easy. 

It could be a simple fix, like a wire to some stupid switch or something.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

Had random wierdness today. Turned into gas station with turn signal on and parked at the pump. Heard light on chime when I got out even though they are disabled via vagcom. Noticed while filling up that outer tail led tube was on but all other lights were off. Chimed every time I opened the door. Turned light switch to off instead of auto. Still chimed, led tube still on. Finally, when I pulled out noticed that the turn signal was still on. Have not been able to duplicate. Must have turned off ignition at exactly the right (wrong) moment...


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> Changed the accesory belt tensioner because some odd noises.
> 
> Well the biggest sound dissapeared, but theres still a metal with metal loud sound when moving from a stop on "D" or "R". Is torque related. Dunno if its the right axle or bearing



In the end it was the alternator pulley.

Today we pulled the alternator out and swapped pulleys with the air tool, using the special splined socket. 

When putting back the alternator it didnt fit, we realized that we didnt retract the sliders, but it was easy in the end.

now it idles smoothly.


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## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> In the end it was the alternator pulley.
> 
> Today we pulled the alternator out and swapped pulleys with the air tool, using the special splined socket.
> 
> ...




Any chance you have a video of that noise your referring to when you accelerate from a stop? I'm having the same issue and my conclusion was AC compressor....


This was the video I posted:





FYI, this still happens even now with the cold northeast climate with the heat turned on. Also, how much did the labour cost you to repair the alternator pulley?


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

everfresh59 said:


> Any chance you have a video of that noise your referring to when you accelerate from a stop? I'm having the same issue and my conclusion was AC compressor....
> 
> 
> This was the video I posted:
> ...





Here's the alternator pulley doing the sound. It sounds good at 0:05 and 0:10 seconds mark.
The constant rattle is from the cam chain I think, but the pulley sownds loud.

I had to "reproduce" the sound for the video with the car stopped, idling at "D" with the hand brake applied.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2tuzxbxvhMc 

I think your's a different sound. My friend is a mechanic, charged me 2 hours of labor but resulted in 80 dollars total. Found the german INA pulley and the special tool here in Chile. The pulley came in a Febi Bilstein box but it was INA.


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Blower Fan quit working... only -25C today. 

Hopefully just frozen?


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Ponto said:


> Hopefully just frozen?


The fan or your toes? 

If it's any consolation, it was also 25C today where I live.


----------



## dfwvw (Sep 22, 2003)

JRutter said:


> Had random wierdness today. Turned into gas station with turn signal on and parked at the pump. Heard light on chime when I got out even though they are disabled via vagcom. Noticed while filling up that outer tail led tube was on but all other lights were off. Chimed every time I opened the door. Turned light switch to off instead of auto. Still chimed, led tube still on. Finally, when I pulled out noticed that the turn signal was still on. Have not been able to duplicate. Must have turned off ignition at exactly the right (wrong) moment...


Normal operation. Those are the European park side marking lights for parallel on street parking. You can duplicate by leaving turn signal on for either side and switching off ignition. Most likely you activated them in the past by changing your instrument cluster country.


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

MisterJJ said:


> The fan or your toes?
> 
> If it's any consolation, it was also 25C today where I live.


Haha the entire car! 

Apparently lots of drifting and a foot and a half of snow everywhere = frozen car. 

Oh and just add a negative sign to that. 

Thawed out now and working fine again. 

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


----------



## ceese (Jul 2, 2011)

All of the sudden my auto windows aren't working.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Loss of power? Did you try holding the button down a few seconds after down, then hold all the way back up and hold a few seconds?


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

My driver's side CV joint decided it was time to grenade itself.. while 500+ miles away from home :banghead:

I had no choice but to take it to a Firestone. I ended up having them replace both axles for me. I wish I didn't.

Now I have bad vibrations on the highway and my alignment is all out of whack, steering wheel off center, etc. I called up the local Firestone (since I'm now 500 miles away from the shop that did the work) and they wan't nothing to do with me. Pretty cool right?

Also, while having the work done, the tech knocked off my front rings. As a courtesy he went ahead and ziptied + applied GLOBS of glue to the rings and my grille. Thanks man! The manager, to rectify the problem, used his pocket knife to cut out the extra glue from both the rings and grille. Nice.










They did end up giving me a partial refund on the service to make up for the unauthorized glue party the tech had with my car.

Corporate America! Home of quality service and outstanding customer care!


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## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

ceese said:


> All of the sudden my auto windows aren't working.


Happened to me this summer, but after holding the button down for 5 seconds or so, and up for 5 seconds or so, they went right back up.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> My driver's side CV joint decided it was time to grenade itself.. while 500+ miles away from home :banghead:
> 
> I had no choice but to take it to a Firestone. I ended up having them replace both axles for me. I wish I didn't.
> 
> ...


wow man that $ucks.. thats one of those horror stories that happen often. 

wait but, how the axle went? it started making any sign of deterioration? like noises or torn boot? 
I have the passenger side boot torn. 

how the tech managed to knock off the front rings? I dont let anyone work on my car. I hope no further damage to the rings/grille. 

What kind of vibrations are you having on the highway?

the manager looks like a dirty old man


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> wow man that $ucks.. thats one of those horror stories that happen often.
> 
> wait but, how the axle went? it started making any sign of deterioration? like noises or torn boot?
> I have the passenger side boot torn.
> ...


My boot have been torn for a long while now. You might remember I made a thread a few months back asking about axles.. well, I never got around to it. My fault, really. 

I had no noise whatsoever up until the cv joint started to fail. It was fine through 500 miles of highway and then several miles of mountain switchbacks the day before. I was on my way out to the mall with my girl and as I was pulling away and making a right turn from a stop sign I started to get a very loud cyclical click. I could feel it through the gas pedal and my seat. A few miles later, as I was approaching the nearest garage, it got really bad. It felt like it was binding and breaking free with every rotation of the wheel. Very little warning and very rapid failure.

Now with the new axles in place the steering wheel vibrates slightly from 60-75mph. If I really get on the gas the whole car vibrates.

I don't know how the tech knocked off the rings. He was probably messing around with them and accidentally ripped them off :facepalm:

And for the record, I rarely let anyone work on my car as well. Not much I could do 500 miles from my own tools!


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

I have the same vibration


----------



## ceese (Jul 2, 2011)

krazyboi said:


> Loss of power? Did you try holding the button down a few seconds after down, then hold all the way back up and hold a few seconds?


The tap to roll all of the way down stopped working after it snowed the other day but the passenger side started working again today - the driver side still isn't working.


----------



## rick89 (Dec 2, 2008)

Just ordered a new mechatronics unit as mine is jerking in the transmission when starting from a stop (especially on an incline) and the hard "clunk" when the DSG shifted from 2nd to 1st when stopping. Also after researching looks like its a solenoid that's stuck and is causing the issue. 

These were codes I got in case anyone else experiences anything similar.

Address 01: Engine Labels: 06F-907-115-AXX.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 907 115 B HW: 8P0 907 115 B
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0080 
Revision: --H10--- Serial number: AUX7Z0E2FNO0EW
Coding: 0103010A1C070160
Shop #: WSC 03303 444 83874
VCID: 31630568A8F2F5A9D05-8064

1 Fault Found:
005668 - MIL Request Signal Active (Check TCM for errors too!) 
P1624 - 008 - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 231549 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.11.25
Time: 20:21:37

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1781 /min
Load: 12.2 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 91.0°C
Temperature: 6.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.097 V

Readiness: 0000 0001

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 02E-927-770.lbl
Part No SW: 02E 300 042 Q HW: 02E 927 770 AD
Component: GSG DSG 041 0902 
Revision: 04004010 Serial number: 00000503110783
Coding: 0000020
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 2143F528F8124529405-8074

1 Fault Found:
18227 - Pressure Control Valve 2 (N216) 
P1819 - 008 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 255
Reset counter: 40
Mileage: 231549 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.11.25
Time: 20:21:20


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

rick89 said:


> Just ordered a new mechatronics unit as mine is jerking in the transmission when starting from a stop (especially on an incline) and the hard "clunk" when the DSG shifted from 2nd to 1st when stopping. Also after researching looks like its a solenoid that's stuck and is causing the issue.
> 
> Mileage: 231549 km


At least you got a lot of mileage on the original MU. Still wish Audi covered early 8Ps in their recall


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

krazyboi said:


> At least you got a lot of mileage on the original MU. Still wish Audi covered early 8Ps in their recall


x1000 

Still got the old unit sitting in the garage.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

krazyboi said:


> At least you got a lot of mileage on the original MU. Still wish Audi covered early 8Ps in their recall





MisterJJ said:


> x1000
> 
> Still got the old unit sitting in the garage.


I just ticked over 140k on mine. 

Is there any reason the early 8Ps aren't covered?


----------



## rick89 (Dec 2, 2008)

I guess but it costs a lot for a new one and I did not want to dish out 2gs for a new one.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

rick89 said:


> Just ordered a new mechatronics unit as mine is jerking in the transmission when starting from a stop (especially on an incline) and the hard "clunk" when the DSG shifted from 2nd to 1st when stopping. Also after researching looks like its a solenoid that's stuck and is causing the issue.
> 
> These were codes I got in case anyone else experiences anything similar.-


Iam getting a clunk when starting from an inclined stop. Dont have any codes though. 

Could be my dogbone mount giving up?
I recently installed a dogbone mount insert. 
Or could be yhe mechatronic unit? Iam at 160k miles. Thx


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

BeeAlk said:


> I just ticked over 140k on mine.
> 
> Is there any reason the early 8Ps aren't covered?


I don't think there were enough '06 with issues for them to consider. Apparently those MU's were better. Mine died right around 55k miles IIRC. I had extended warranty but the 3rd party vendor declined to pay for it since I had aftermarket suspension :screwy:


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

krazyboi said:


> the 3rd party vendor declined to pay for it since I had aftermarket suspension :screwy:


thats a ripoff


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

so you have 231KM on the car, do you have records for or know your dsg fluid change history, and what fluid did you use?


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Wiper motor is pooched.  all factory Lighting lol. 

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

Ponto said:


> Wiper motor is pooched.  all factory Lighting lol.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


You're cursed bro.


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## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

Ponto said:


> Wiper motor is pooched.  all factory Lighting lol.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


Checked fuses? This happened to me a few months ago and it happened to be a blown fuse that took both down :thumbup:


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Ponto said:


> Wiper motor is pooched.  all factory Lighting lol.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


Check for stray bolts that may have impaled the motor..


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

TBomb said:


> You're cursed bro.


Blower motor was just frozen, back in action now. So just the wiper motor is my issue now lol. 



NBPT_A3 said:


> Checked fuses? This happened to me a few months ago and it happened to be a blown fuse that took both down :thumbup:


I checked fuse and it was ok, the fuse for the front wiper runs the washer pump too and the pump kicks in fine.


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## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

Ponto said:


> Blower motor was just frozen, back in action now. So just the wiper motor is my issue now lol.
> 
> 
> 
> I checked fuse and it was ok, the fuse for the front wiper runs the washer pump too and the pump kicks in fine.


The washer pump is on a different fuse, for the 2.0T at least (position 42)


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

NBPT_A3 said:


> The washer pump is on a different fuse, for the 2.0T at least (position 42)


When I checked the book it said front wipers (washer pump) fuse 42 or did I miss some other fuse? 

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

BeeAlk said:


> Check for stray bolts that may have impaled the motor..


Hahaha funny man. 

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

*confused*

Hi guys sorry for the confusion but i didnt want to double post cross thread whatever.

This might belong in the "what i did" thread, not the "whats wrong" thread, but what I did was fix a broken rear wiper blade by replacing it with a _brand new_ wiper blade. 


So thats what I did to my A3.

Today.:grinsanta:


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

SilverSquirrel said:


> Hi guys sorry for the confusion but i didnt want to double post cross thread whatever.
> 
> This might belong in the "what i did" thread, not the "whats wrong" thread, but what I did was fix a broken rear wiper blade by replacing it with a _brand new_ wiper blade.
> 
> ...


:/


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Ponto said:


> When I checked the book it said front wipers (washer pump) fuse 42 or did I miss some other fuse?
> 
> Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


The fuse panel should tell you which it is


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

Ponto said:


> :/


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

krazyboi said:


> The fuse panel should tell you which it is


Johnny
DID YOU EVEN READ?

I said 42 says front wipers (washer pump) from reading it in the manual  

What I was asking is if there is a separate one I might have missed.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Ponto said:


> Johnny
> DID YOU EVEN READ?
> 
> I said 42 says front wipers (washer pump) from reading it in the manual
> ...


What?


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

krazyboi said:


> What?


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## rick89 (Dec 2, 2008)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> Iam getting a clunk when starting from an inclined stop. Dont have any codes though.
> 
> Could be my dogbone mount giving up?
> I recently installed a dogbone mount insert.
> Or could be yhe mechatronic unit? Iam at 160k miles. Thx


I think it could be your dogbone mount, when I came to a stop at a stop sign my car would jerk forward every time and I had PRNDS lights flashing. The car would not let me drive it until I restarted it.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

krazyboi said:


> What?


Yup there was a second fuse.

All good in the hood now.


----------



## hentotheree (Dec 3, 2014)

my clutch is making a weird rubbing sound on the initial take off


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## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

Ponto said:


> Yup there was a second fuse.
> 
> All good in the hood now.


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

Thinking of raising the car up from my H&R cup kit to S-Line OEM (if I can buy/trade one). The negative camber is killing tires faster than I can make money to replace them, even rotating every 1500-2000 miles. As much as I like the low, my wallet sure doesn't.


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## voughtt (Dec 9, 2014)

*Not much wrong...today*

Picked up my Brilliant Red/Coal Mine Black 2006 A3 3.2 S-Line from a lot in Reno a couple of months ago. 99k when purchased. 107k now. 

Within the past two months, I've:

-Switched engine oil to Mobil1 5w-30, then 0w-40. (Changed filter in between, then drove to Louisiana and back from the SF Bay Area...lots of high speed driving, no oil consumption.)
-Done VW DSG service. 
-Replaced plugs and used some dielectric grease on the boots
-Silicone lubed all the window tracks.
-Detailed the interior and used the speed buffer and Meguiars 102 and 105 on the exterior to rough off a lot of paint wear. 
-Added the superb Audi-branded all-weather mats and cargo area liner.
-Added a SiriusXM tuner. (Awesome!)

What's still wrong?

-Driver's seat bolsters need some attention from an upholstery shop.
-The Audi Rings fell off of the engine cover recently, so now it just says "3.2".:roll eyes:
-On cold start, there's a little stumble that goes away within 30 seconds, but VCDS shows no codes; likewise, there's a little unevenness around 1200-1500rpm. Maybe that's just the BUB?
-Replaced the passenger's lock switch and driver's window switches due to the rubberized paint bubbling off, been giving a lot of regular Lexol care to the leather to re-soften it, and of course the armrest and sunshade latches are all broken, but it's been quite solid. 

Um...that's about it. Aside from a zillion rock chips and some poor repaint work on the driver's door, it's an awfully solid car so far. No timing chain guide noise, the DSG solenoids and clutches seem pretty solid, and I am replacing the ContiExtreme DWS tires this week.

Also: I need to discern the Haldex type and change hat oil and filter. The car was originally sold from Royal in SF, and last serviced at Audi of Oakland. Of course, no dealer stamps at all in the maintenance manual. :-\


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## hentotheree (Dec 3, 2014)

voughtt said:


> Picked up my Brilliant Red/Coal Mine Black 2006 A3 3.2 S-Line from a lot in Reno a couple of months ago. 99k when purchased. 107k now.
> 
> Within the past two months, I've:
> 
> ...


I have a 2011 with about 60k and the driver seat definitely needs attention from an upholstery shop. and I've also heard numerous complaints about the lock and window switches so that sounds about the norm.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

beckermanex said:


> Thinking of raising the car up from my H&R cup kit to S-Line OEM (if I can buy/trade one). The negative camber is killing tires faster than I can make money to replace them, even rotating every 1500-2000 miles. As much as I like the low, my wallet sure doesn't.


How low does the cup kit go? I'm assuming your "camber wear" is in the back? How much camber do you have and what are your wheel/tire specs? If I were you I'd go to an alignment place and request that they zero out your rear toe. In all likelihood that's probably causing the wear and not the camber.


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

BeeAlk said:


> How low does the cup kit go? I'm assuming your "camber wear" is in the back? How much camber do you have and what are your wheel/tire specs? If I were you I'd go to an alignment place and request that they zero out your rear toe. In all likelihood that's probably causing the wear and not the camber.


The back is actually fine, its the front and the inside of the front tires that is wearing badly compared to the other tires or even the entire surface of the front tires. I'm not sure the exact camber, as I'm not too good with that type of stuff, but this is what the tire place told me when I had to have the two fronts replaced because they were balding in the inners. I've been rotating them every 1500-2000 miles rather than the traditional rotation period to try and stave it off.

I'm running 225/40/ZR18 with stock A6 AVUS 18" wheels, so very little, if any stretch. 

The cup kit dropped the car 2" measuring before and after at the lip of the fender, 26.5" to 24.5".

So, not sure what to do, I think this excessive wear, even for being moar low, but not sure what to do with it really.


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

beckermanex said:


> The back is actually fine, its the front and the inside of the front tires that is wearing badly compared to the other tires or even the entire surface of the front tires. I'm not sure the exact camber, as I'm not too good with that type of stuff, but this is what the tire place told me when I had to have the two fronts replaced because they were balding in the inners. I've been rotating them every 1500-2000 miles rather than the traditional rotation period to try and stave it off.
> 
> I'm running 225/40/ZR18 with stock A6 AVUS 18" wheels, so very little, if any stretch.
> 
> ...


Yeah I am lower on coils and don't have the wear, its not the camber killing your tires. Get the spec's from the alignment, see what the toe is.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

Ponto said:


> Get the spec's from the alignment, see what the toe is.


This - toe kills tires. You could also ask to have the tires flipped on the wheels to put the wear on the outside to squeeze a bit more life out of them.


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

JRutter said:


> This - toe kills tires. You could also ask to have the tires flipped on the wheels to put the wear on the outside to squeeze a bit more life out of them.


Would taking the car in for an alignment potentially "solve" this issue? If so, would it need to be an VW/Audi place or any good shop that does it?


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

beckermanex said:


> Would taking the car in for an alignment potentially "solve" this issue? If so, would it need to be an VW/Audi place or any good shop that does it?


If I was near an Audi dealership or place, yeah I would take it there for alignment, otherwise any reputable shop will do.

as others suggest get the toe checked. 

I wanna max rear negative camber with the help of my mechanic friend. Recently I had my car aligned from a trustful guy that set the steering wheel dead center and car drives straight on the highway, If I ever crap out my alignment adjusting the rear camber I will take it there.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

beckermanex said:


> Would taking the car in for an alignment potentially "solve" this issue? If so, would it need to be an VW/Audi place or any good shop that does it?





2006_A3_2.0T said:


> If I was near an Audi dealership or place, yeah I would take it there for alignment, otherwise any reputable shop will do.


I always try to find performance shops to do my alignments. They tend to find the small adjustments and fine tuning more important than all the other "routine" maintenance places like dealerships or the big chain "express" kind of places. Also, where I'm at the dealerships tend to charge 30-40% more for the same jobs.

I was just guessing it was your rear tires in my previous post. VW/Audi call for some heavy toe in the rear on our cars, more than what seems usual. Some tires just don't like aggressive toe. Your front toe might just be off.

Being lowered, unless extremely low, should not have much effect on the wear of your tires. With just a 2 inch drop you should still be able to achieve factory alignment specs.. zero out the toe and your tires will last muuuch longer. Your car will feel a bit more "vague" at highways speeds though.. all a tradeoff.

What tires are you running?


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

BeeAlk said:


> I always try to find performance shops to do my alignments. They tend to find the small adjustments and fine tuning more important than all the other "routine" maintenance places like dealerships or the big chain "express" kind of places. Also, where I'm at the dealerships tend to charge 30-40% more for the same jobs.
> 
> I was just guessing it was your rear tires in my previous post. VW/Audi call for some heavy toe in the rear on our cars, more than what seems usual. Some tires just don't like aggressive toe. Your front toe might just be off.
> 
> ...


Conti Extreme DWS, I'll look for some local shops to see what I can do, do I just tell them I want my toe to be adjusted/fixed/examined in the front? Sorry, just want to know what to tell them to solve this issue once and for all.


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## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

let me get this straight, you lowered your car with new springs and dampers, experienced poor tire wear, assumed bad camber wear, but DID NOT get the alignment checked? face palm to the maximum. my car is on coil overs and every single time i adjust them the toe is out of whack. if you think of how the rear is adjusted its by cam bolts on the inside of the lower control arm. the same control arm you have to unbolt to install springs. and as you change ride height the angle of your tie rods change which means the front toe will be out! luckily for me i can do my own alignments at work, but every time I've adjusted my ride height (as little as 10mm) the alignment has gone out of spec.

for the record, my car with rear sway bar set to stiff, eats rear tires. have -2 degrees camber in back but pretty sure the tire wear i get is due to the sway. currently have the coils almost all the way up and the sway on the soft setting and hoping my winters don't get devoured.


EDIT: you want front and rear toe in spec! rear camber is adjustable but you won't be able to get it in spec if your 24.5" FTG. front camber should be even, otherwise your subframe needs to be shifted. caster should be fine unless you've ****ed with the subframe or been in an accident.


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

louiekaps said:


> let me get this straight, you lowered your car with new springs and dampers, experienced poor tire wear, assumed bad camber wear, but DID NOT get the alignment checked? face palm to the maximum. my car is on coil overs and every single time i adjust them the toe is out of whack. if you think of how the rear is adjusted its by cam bolts on the inside of the lower control arm. the same control arm you have to unbolt to install springs. and as you change ride height the angle of your tie rods change which means the front toe will be out! luckily for me i can do my own alignments at work, but every time I've adjusted my ride height (as little as 10mm) the alignment has gone out of spec.
> 
> for the record, my car with rear sway bar set to stiff, eats rear tires. have -2 degrees camber in back but pretty sure the tire wear i get is due to the sway. currently have the coils almost all the way up and the sway on the soft setting and hoping my winters don't get devoured.
> 
> ...


Hey man, thanks for making me feel better  :beer:

I'm actively searching out a shop to do my alignment and hope to get it all fixed up shortly.


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## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

Look for a shop that does lots of alignments. Don't worry about a specialized German shop. This car is easier to align than most jap/American cars.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

louiekaps said:


> let me get this straight, you lowered your car with new springs and dampers, experienced poor tire wear, assumed bad camber wear, but DID NOT get the alignment checked? face palm to the maximum. my car is on coil overs and every single time i adjust them the toe is out of whack. if you think of how the rear is adjusted its by cam bolts on the inside of the lower control arm. the same control arm you have to unbolt to install springs. and as you change ride height the angle of your tie rods change which means the front toe will be out! luckily for me i can do my own alignments at work, but every time I've adjusted my ride height (as little as 10mm) the alignment has gone out of spec.
> 
> for the record, my car with rear sway bar set to stiff, eats rear tires. have -2 degrees camber in back but pretty sure the tire wear i get is due to the sway. currently have the coils almost all the way up and the sway on the soft setting and hoping my winters don't get devoured.
> 
> ...


Hey Louie, do you have the factory specs? I was shredding the inside edge of my rear tires with stock spec rear toe, ever since I 0ed it tires have been fine but the handling now leaves a bit to be desired.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

BeeAlk said:


> Hey Louie, do you have the factory specs? I was shredding the inside edge of my rear tires with stock spec rear toe, ever since I 0ed it tires have been fine but the handling now leaves a bit to be desired.


Here is what I pulled off of my old alignment sheets as the specs for various specific models (the 3 digit codes) You can see that the S3 has lower toe specs - this makes the car more nimble, but as noted earlier more twitchy and less dead steady on the hwy.

*Audi 06-10 A3 4x4 Sport UA1 UA5 UA6 UA9*
*Front*
Camber -0.18 to -1.18
Caster 7.28 to 8.28
Toe 0.0 to 0.17
*Rear*
Camber -0.83 to -1.83
Toe 0.13 to 0.29

*Audi 06-10 A3 Sport UA3 UB3*
*Front*
Camber -0.3 to -1.3
Caster 7.6 to 8.6
Toe 0.00 to 0.17
*Rear*
Camber -0.8 to -1.8
Toe 0.13 to 0.29

*Audi S3 8P UB5*
*Front *
Camber -0.3 to -1.3
Caster (not noted on my sheet)
Toe 0.00 to 0.10
*Rear*
Camber -0.8 to -1.8
Toe 0.05 to 0.15


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

JRutter said:


> Here is what I pulled off of my old alignment sheets as the specs for various specific models (the 3 digit codes) You can see that the S3 has lower toe specs - this makes the car more nimble, but as noted earlier more twitchy and less dead steady on the hwy.
> 
> *Audi 06-10 A3 4x4 Sport UA1 UA5 UA6 UA9*
> *Front*
> ...


Thanks :thumbup:

Since I'm getting my alignment redone tomorrow I am going to request that my toe gets set to the lower limit of stock specs instead of 0. Maybe it'll rid the floatiness on the highway but still treat my tires well.


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## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

I can look it up tomorrow. Tbh when I do an alignment I just look at the bar graphs on the screen till its centered. Time is money lol.


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## kharma (Jan 2, 2004)

Do all quattros shred rear tires? Took my PSS's off a few weeks ago, and while the wear was even the rears are WAY more worn than fronts with only about 7500mi this summer.

Got in the car this AM, bish did not want to start. Had to put on the charger. New Bosch battery went in tonight after she stumbled at work and again at the brewery.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

kharma said:


> Do all quattros shred rear tires? Took my PSS's off a few weeks ago, and while the wear was even the rears are WAY more worn than fronts with only about 7500mi this summer.
> 
> Got in the car this AM, bish did not want to start. Had to put on the charger. New Bosch battery went in tonight after she stumbled at work and again at the brewery.


Again all down to your alignment.


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## kharma (Jan 2, 2004)

The alignment's solid, they just wear faster than the fronts which is counter to what I expected. I don't drive like THAT much of an asshat. All the time. Or something.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

I had noticed a bit of slop in the driveline the past 2 months or so.. I haven't thought much of it.

I took it in for an alignment today and they mentioned that my axle flange seal is weeping. It has trickled down into my dogbone mount and sure enough it's starting to disintegrate. 

So now I need to replace my dog bone and replace the flange seal (anyone ever do this before??) as well as figure out how much DSG fluid I may have lost and do a flush. It really does never end..


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## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

I did rears on mine and they were cake. I'm pretty sure the fronts are even easier but I'd have to have a look. Should just be a simple seal puller job and pound the new one in.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

louiekaps said:


> I did rears on mine and they were cake. I'm pretty sure the fronts are even easier but I'd have to have a look. Should just be a simple seal puller job and pound the new one in.


I'm assuming I'll have to pull the axle out to replace, right? Meaning... I'll need _another_ alignment? Mother ****er! 

Thanks for the words of encouragement though


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## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

BeeAlk said:


> I'm assuming I'll have to pull the axle out to replace, right? Meaning...I'll need _another_ alignment? Mother ****er!


Three words: Firestone Lifetime Alignment.


----------



## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

Yeah definitely have to pull axle, then just use a seal puller(lisle makes a good one for cheap) and pound the new one in.


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## hentotheree (Dec 3, 2014)

has anyone heard this before?


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## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

Sounds like a definite transmission issue. 6MT or DSG?


----------



## hentotheree (Dec 3, 2014)

NBPT_A3 said:


> Sounds like a definite transmission issue. 6MT or DSG?


6MT. I've heard a few different ideas around here and from friends.... trans bearing, or a spring that has sneaked out of its cage and is dragging on the flywheel. 

It doesnt make this sound all the time. This morning on the way to work it was silent. Chances are on the drive home it'll start making the noise again.


----------



## L_A_456 (Apr 8, 2011)

Broke the bloody arm rest latch. Piece of crap


----------



## wishntoboutside (Mar 11, 2002)

Lunch was ruined yesterday.... Entered the freeway to have the Epc code and check engine light go on. It got the AAA call to find out it had a bad coil pack. Shinny red ones put on and car is as good as new. Sad to say this is my first car ever to go on a flatbed that had less the 60K on it.


----------



## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

wishntoboutside said:


> ...bad coil pack. Shinny red ones put on and car is as good as new.


All's well that ends in an upgrade.


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## Scuba*A3 (Feb 2, 2013)

JRutter said:


> ........ You can see that the S3 has lower toe specs - this makes the car more nimble, but as noted earlier more twitchy and less dead steady on the hwy.


Hummm......I did my own alignment when I put on new tires last month and aligned it with the S3 specs. My car is straight as an arrow and is very responsive to steering wheel inputs. On the drive up here to the PNW from SoCal, I noticed no twitchiness on the highway.


----------



## Evo V (Dec 29, 2010)

I joined the club - broke arm rest latch on Monday and yesterday water pump leaked. I am amazed that it lasted this much. I am at 170k miles now.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

Scuba*A3 said:


> Hummm......I did my own alignment when I put on new tires last month and aligned it with the S3 specs. My car is straight as an arrow and is very responsive to steering wheel inputs. On the drive up here to the PNW from SoCal, I noticed no twitchiness on the highway.


What did you end up with for toe? I did zero all around on my last one and the car will shift around if you just sneeze. I may go to very minimal toe on my next go round.


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## Scuba*A3 (Feb 2, 2013)

JRutter said:


> What did you end up with for toe? I did zero all around on my last one and the car will shift around if you just sneeze. I may go to very minimal toe on my next go round.


On the alignment rack I used, I selected a 2011 Audi S3 (UB5) that had range of 0.10 to 0.30 degrees with a preferred setting of 0.20 degrees. I was able to adjust the rear toe to the preferred setting of .20 degrees. It took a while but I was finally able to get both sides. 

Also, the rear camber had a range of -1.8 to -0.8 degrees with a preferred setting of -1.3 degrees. I set my rear camber at -1.3 degrees.

Funny how the mentioned specs are different than the ones I used for the S3....wonder why? I did look at the specs for the RS3 but they were the same for the S3 so I used the S3 specs vs the A3 specs. I figured since I was lowered to the roughly same height as the Euro S3 cars I should align it to that as well. Drives like a dream for me.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

Thanks. If you ever head up north and have time for a beer and car talk, hit me up.


----------



## eh (Mar 4, 2003)




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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

^ I know, right. That thing is buried. I helped my son with his recently and when it finally came out, the arm was flopping around like a politician during election year.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

JRutter said:


> ^ I know, right. That thing is buried. I helped my son with his recently and when it finally came out, the arm was flopping around like a politician during election year.


I can get mine out in less than 10 minutes now.. I've probably pulled mine out 6 or 7 times in the lat year dealing with the nise the poly insert has been making 

When I took out my OEM one it was really really floppy too.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

eh said:


>


Looks like it was a painful mount swap ..


----------



## eh (Mar 4, 2003)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> Looks like it was a painful mount swap ..


At least I have a clean, warm parking garage, and my neighbour's car was out, so I had lots of room.


----------



## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

Scuba*A3 said:


> On the alignment rack I used, I selected a 2011 Audi S3 (UB5) that had range of 0.10 to 0.30 degrees with a preferred setting of 0.20 degrees. I was able to adjust the rear toe to the preferred setting of .20 degrees. It took a while but I was finally able to get both sides.
> 
> Also, the rear camber had a range of -1.8 to -0.8 degrees with a preferred setting of -1.3 degrees. I set my rear camber at -1.3 degrees.
> 
> Funny how the mentioned specs are different than the ones I used for the S3....wonder why? I did look at the specs for the RS3 but they were the same for the S3 so I used the S3 specs vs the A3 specs. I figured since I was lowered to the roughly same height as the Euro S3 cars I should align it to that as well. Drives like a dream for me.


got my TT ( no holes type) control arm bushings installed today. one of my original ones (2 void / hole type) had cracked rubber connecting the top and bottom holes. Toe was 0.40 Left and 0.55 right. 
After alignment, he set it at 0.05 left and right. 
Car was pulling a tad, and that bushing must have been moving a bit on accel and braking. Better now.
Camber not really changed. It sits at -0.8 and -0.9, caster 7.1/6.7, a bit off, but best he could do.

The really odd thing was rear toe. It was -0.20 both sides. Best he could do was +0.05 both sides ( 1/4 degree change!) 
any Ideas where to look or what bushing, to see whats up?


----------



## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

^ I'm glad you mentioned the torn LCA bushing. The boy's A3 developed a side-to-side shimmy under braking and acceleration after we did the euro springs. Did the motor mounts thinking it was torque related movement, but the LCA rear bushing(s) may have torn when the spindle swung down to remove the struts. 

Here is the trans mount, lol.


----------



## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

JRutter said:


> ^ I'm glad you mentioned the torn LCA bushing. The boy's A3 developed a side-to-side shimmy under braking and acceleration after we did the euro springs. Did the motor mounts thinking it was torque related movement, but the LCA rear bushing(s) may have torn when the spindle swung down to remove the struts.


My mechanic had recently changed out lca bushings on another 3.2, and noted it had the same split rubber. Glad I went solid rubber. Dont think pushing down the arm while changing struts would tear it... its not bonded to the arm shaft. It would just clock around the hex shape to the next flat if it went too far. But who knows. Ive r&r'd struts 4 times now, on the old bushings.. First three times disconnecting the axles, fourth time not.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Busted motor mount videos? Here was mine:


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> Busted motor mount videos? Here was mine:


Wow that looks toasted.

There was somebody moving the transmission from below while taking the vid? I need to diagnose whats going on with my mounts, because after installing the dogbone insert, a strong movement or play down there can be felt when running from a red light when passengers are in the car. I suspect the dog bone is bad.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> Wow that looks toasted.
> 
> There was somebody moving the transmission from below while taking the vid? I need to diagnose whats going on with my mounts, because after installing the dogbone insert, a strong movement or play down there can be felt when running from a red light when passengers are in the car. I suspect the dog bone is bad.


I set up the camera and then just rocked the car back and forth in park.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> I set up the camera and then just rocked the car back and forth in park.


Thx for the tip. Gonna do that for sure.


----------



## Scuba*A3 (Feb 2, 2013)

JRutter said:


> Thanks. If you ever head up north and have time for a beer and car talk, hit me up.


NP....we'll need to have an A3 get together and compare notes one of these days...


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Door lock was making funny "Bzzzt" noise but then it got warmer and went away. Now it's colder again and it stopped working and alarm won't set. 
By "colder", I mean down into the 50's.


----------



## L_A_456 (Apr 8, 2011)

MisterJJ said:


> Door lock was making funny "Bzzzt" noise but then it got warmer and went away. Now it's colder again and it stopped working and alarm won't set.
> By "colder", I mean down into the 50's.



Check the wires in rubber boot/sleeve between the body and door.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

wishntoboutside said:


> Lunch was ruined yesterday.... Entered the freeway to have the Epc code and check engine light go on. It got the AAA call to find out it had a bad coil pack. Shinny red ones put on and car is as good as new. Sad to say this is my first car ever to go on a flatbed that had less the 60K on it.


Coil packs should be carried as spares in your trunk :thumbup: (and hopefully a vag-com and laptop too)


----------



## kharma (Jan 2, 2004)

Driver's window regulator shat the bed. First one in this car, can't complain too much.


----------



## eurotuned00 (Jul 16, 2007)

Meant to post this a few weeks back
Came follower failure at 110k


----------



## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

eurotuned00 said:


> Meant to post this a few weeks back
> Came follower failure at 110k


Rip apart the head yet?


----------



## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

krazyboi said:


> Coil packs should be carried as spares in your trunk :thumbup: (and hopefully a vag-com and laptop too)


spoken from the master! Merry Christmas bro!


----------



## wishntoboutside (Mar 11, 2002)

krazyboi said:


> Coil packs should be carried as spares in your trunk :thumbup: (and hopefully a vag-com and laptop too)


Great idea. Ty


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

L_A_456 said:


> Check the wires in rubber boot/sleeve between the body and door.


Everything looks okay. It's the passengers side rear door, which only gets used a few times a year. It's definitely temperature dependent since it's now started working again with the temps in the 70's. It's like this:

70's: Works fine
60's: Works, but makes funny noise
50's: Does not work


----------



## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

MisterJJ said:


> Everything looks okay. It's the passengers side rear door, which only gets used a few times a year. It's definitely temperature dependent since it's now started working again with the temps in the 70's. It's like this:
> 
> 70's: Works fine
> 60's: Works, but makes funny noise
> 50's: Does not work


didnt think you got 50s in  Cali.


----------



## eurotuned00 (Jul 16, 2007)

NBPT_A3 said:


> Rip apart the head yet?


Audi took care of it, new cam, follower and hpfp, the metal punched out part was also located


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Tcardio said:


> spoken from the master! Merry Christmas bro!


Never had this issue in the past, but I ran into one and started to carry them.

Merry Christmas to you too!


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

eurotuned00 said:


> Audi took care of it, new cam, follower and hpfp, the metal punched out part was also located


The center just broke through as a solid piece? ****. Glad audi took care of it all.


----------



## eh (Mar 4, 2003)

No middle finger this time.


----------



## wishntoboutside (Mar 11, 2002)

Thank god for AAA dead battery in the way to work today. Sounded weak at the start but would not start up after a brief stop getting gas. 2nd call in two weeks to them. If anything happen next week this car is gone. Is only a 2013. I love my car but I need it dependable.


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## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

Because having a dead battery is good means to sell a car.....


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

louiekaps said:


> Because having a dead battery is good means to sell a car.....


yeah Iam on 3rd battery after getting the car with 110k miles


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

wishntoboutside said:


> Thank god for AAA dead battery in the way to work today. Sounded weak at the start but would not start up after a brief stop getting gas. 2nd call in two weeks to them. If anything happen next week this car is gone. Is only a 2013. I love my car but I need it dependable.





louiekaps said:


> Because having a dead battery is good means to sell a car.....





2006_A3_2.0T said:


> yeah Iam on 3rd battery after getting the car with 110k miles


Lawl seriously guys, find out what's ruining your batteries instead of just replacing them over and over..


----------



## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

BeeAlk said:


> Lawl seriously guys, find out what's ruining your batteries instead of just replacing them over and over..


Agreed. Aftermarket stereo equipment? Accessories? Stock electric grounds disconnected or chewed through? Has to be something going on.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> Lawl seriously guys, find out what's ruining your batteries instead of just replacing them over and over..





npace said:


> Agreed. Aftermarket stereo equipment? Accessories? Stock electric grounds disconnected or chewed through? Has to be something going on.



first 2 batteries were chinnese knock offs, the one now is a Bosh but smaller, its holding pretty good. Next time Iam getting the bosh full size.


----------



## wishntoboutside (Mar 11, 2002)

I just need my car to be dependable and reliable calling AAA two times in 10 days doesn't work for me-(.


----------



## Bezerker (Nov 12, 2013)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> first 2 batteries were chinnese knock offs, the one now is a Bosh but smaller, its holding pretty good. Next time Iam getting the bosh full size.


Buy nice or buy twice ... er often.


----------



## bobbeck (Jan 4, 2001)

Boostleak! Starting with a new dirverter valve.


----------



## bandphreak587 (Sep 8, 2011)

This is what's wrong!!


----------



## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

^ HPFP?


----------



## bandphreak587 (Sep 8, 2011)

Yea the fuel line to it is broken! I wanted to get one made but no one Makes them around here so I have to order one tomorrow


----------



## a4000 (Apr 23, 2009)

Tensioner pulley exploded. Ironically, friend was on his way to his house with the car to replace tensioner/belt/idler pulley and a bunch of other maintenance items. It lasted just about 86k miles...needed it to last another 10 or so....catastrophic failure on his way to replace it. Good thing he already had a replacement in the hatch.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

a4000 said:


> Tensioner pulley exploded. Ironically, friend was on his way to his house with the car to replace tensioner/belt/idler pulley and a bunch of other maintenance items. It lasted just about 86k miles...needed it to last another 10 or so....catastrophic failure on his way to replace it. Good thing he already had a replacement in the hatch.


Valves are OK?


----------



## a4000 (Apr 23, 2009)

BeeAlk said:


> Valves are OK?


I sure hope so. This was the serpentine belt....that shouldnt effect valves right?


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Found thick brownish fluid on this. Doesn't seem like motor oil. Thoughts?


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

krazyboi said:


> Found thick brownish fluid on this. Doesn't seem like motor oil. Thoughts?


Hard to see where you're at..

Only things that should be turning brown are 6MT trans fluid, haldex fluid, and motor oil.


----------



## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

a4000 said:


> I sure hope so. This was the serpentine belt....that shouldnt effect valves right?


Nope. Should be fine. The ECU knows to shut down when the coolant temp skyrockets and alternator stops.


----------



## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

krazyboi said:


> Found thick brownish fluid on this. Doesn't seem like motor oil. Thoughts?


Shaft seal on the inner rear axle? Or is that the prop shaft from the front? Looks like a seal either way...


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

a4000 said:


> I sure hope so. This was the serpentine belt....that shouldnt effect valves right?


Ah, yeah. I read "tensioner" and "catastrophic failure" and assumed it was the timing belt tensioner pulley. 

Serpentine belt snapping is far from catastrophic :laugh:


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

BeeAlk said:


> Hard to see where you're at..
> 
> Only things that should be turning brown are 6MT trans fluid, haldex fluid, and motor oil.





JRutter said:


> Shaft seal on the inner rear axle? Or is that the prop shaft from the front? Looks like a seal either way...


I think JRutter is probably right. It's on the inner passenger side axle area.

What needs to be fixed/replaced? The shaft seal?

Thanks :beer:


----------



## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

krazyboi said:


> I think JRutter is probably right. It's on the inner passenger side axle area.
> 
> What needs to be fixed/replaced? The shaft seal?
> 
> Thanks :beer:


The black plug looks like the diff drain plug to me. Did you have the diff fluid changed lately? Could just be a $0.20 crush washer.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

npace said:


> The black plug looks like the diff drain plug to me. Did you have the diff fluid changed lately? Could just be a $0.20 crush washer.


No I haven't had it changed lately. I have an appointment with the dealer to fix a few recalls. I'll have them look at it.


----------



## jro90 (Jan 3, 2015)

*Hoping its Miniscule*

My 09 A3 2.0TQ is sitting at about 70K. Other day on the highway Service light popped up. Noticed car hiccup or should i say delay in gear change. I am driving it like a grandma now. Any suggestions or ideas wtf I might be dealing with?


----------



## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

KB, I had a leak at that spot on mine that only showed up after a 7 hour drive after a track weekend. It was the first ever drip from this car on the garage floor. I ended up with new seals when I did the TT axles 5k miles later. I need to do my diff gear oil though, "lifetime" means warranty period probably.


----------



## Bezerker (Nov 12, 2013)

Since cooler weather has set in, I've noticed my A3 runs less smoothly from a cold start. It's almost as if it's missing - I feel a slight power loss when accelerating. It's not constant either. Yesterday, I had a slight hiccup going from second to third gear from a cold start. No CEL (or other indicators) and I'm without VAGCOM, so I have little to go on. I'm going to get VAGCOM as soon as I can, but does anyone have any ideas? Carbon buildup? Plugs/coils (plus replaced 1 year/~20k miles ago)? MAF?


----------



## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

JRutter said:


> KB, I had a leak at that spot on mine that only showed up after a 7 hour drive after a track weekend. It was the first ever drip from this car on the garage floor. I ended up with new seals when I did the TT axles 5k miles later. I need to do my diff gear oil though, "lifetime" means warranty period probably.


LOL on the diff fluid. My wife's Subaru has a requirement to change the diff oil at 40k. Most other cars (at least the ones I've had) are between the 40k-50k range. I was going to change mine (approaching 25k) because, like you, I track the car and it gets a little more hard use, but I checked the fluid and it still looks brand new. I would say somewhere in the 40k range is more realistic. These cars use 75w90 gear oil, so it's not like there's some secret recipe in there that keeps the fluid good forever. 

What was interesting, however, was that the haldex fluid was already dirty and I was getting some buildup on the magnetic plug at 20k. Food for thought, I guess.


----------



## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

I changed the rear diff fluid when I did the axle seals. Around 42k miles and looked brand new. Funny how these jeeps I work on at 30k the fluid is disgusting.


----------



## a4000 (Apr 23, 2009)

If you start hearing some squealing from the serpentine belt area, it's a good idea to change out your belt and tensioner. Good chance the bearing is failing and then this will happen as you're cruising down the road.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

a4000 said:


> If you start hearing some squealing from the serpentine belt area, it's a good idea to change out your belt and tensioner. Good chance the bearing is failing and then this will happen as you're cruising down the road.


good heads up. BTW the belt and tensioner are a breeze to swap.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

a4000 said:


> If you start hearing some squealing from the serpentine belt area, it's a good idea to change out your belt and tensioner. Good chance the bearing is failing and then this will happen as you're cruising down the road.


How many miles on your car? I'm at 96k and haven't had to change mine out yet.


----------



## a4000 (Apr 23, 2009)

krazyboi said:


> How many miles on your car? I'm at 96k and haven't had to change mine out yet.


86k


----------



## a4000 (Apr 23, 2009)

krazyboi said:


> How many miles on your car? I'm at 96k and haven't had to change mine out yet.


It is an inexpensive maintenance item. But while you're there, there are also 2 idler pulleys which are also cheap. And since you're there, you may as well do the water pump too. lol


----------



## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

Right headlight Flapper is not working so now my car winks when I flash the high beam. :banghead: Any help would be appreciated. I've searched around and only thing I could come up with is maybe the wiring to the flapper is cracked. Not sure how easy this is to check.


----------



## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

id be guessing the motor is worn out if anything. Check fuses I believe each beam is fused. Otherwise you'll need to check for voltage when activating the high beams with a dmm.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

a4000 said:


> It is an inexpensive maintenance item. But while you're there, there are also 2 idler pulleys which are also cheap. And since you're there, you may as well do the water pump too. lol


:thumbup: Thanks. Another thing to add to my list of things that need to be done.


----------



## a4000 (Apr 23, 2009)

krazyboi said:


> :thumbup: Thanks. Another thing to add to my list of things that need to be done.


Also, oddly enough, the tensioner that blew up had "Litens" stamped on the side, so it may not have even been the original.


----------



## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

louiekaps said:


> id be guessing the motor is worn out if anything. Check fuses I believe each beam is fused. Otherwise you'll need to check for voltage when activating the high beams with a dmm.


Thanks for the info. Wonder if this motor can be purchased or if I'm going to need to buy a new headlight.


----------



## Bezerker (Nov 12, 2013)

Bezerker said:


> Since cooler weather has set in, I've noticed my A3 runs less smoothly from a cold start. It's almost as if it's missing - I feel a slight power loss when accelerating. It's not constant either. Yesterday, I had a slight hiccup going from second to third gear from a cold start. No CEL (or other indicators) and I'm without VAGCOM, so I have little to go on. I'm going to get VAGCOM as soon as I can, but does anyone have any ideas? Carbon buildup? Plugs/coils (plus replaced 1 year/~20k miles ago)? MAF?


Welp, we had a huge rainfall down here in Alabama Saturday evening (power at the house even went out for a while). Didn't drive the car Sunday. Drove to work today and it started misfiring when going above 2k RPM. Misfires were violent - shaking the whole car. Noticeable loss of power. CEL light flashed and went away. Car idled just fine, though. It seemed to do better once it reached operating temperature - it was cold (~30 degrees F) this morning so it took a while. After it warmed up, it seemed to run better but I was driving/accelerating very slowly to avoid causing more misfires. Went ahead and ordered new coils/plugs as I need to have the car running since my MkIV is also in the shop  I'm hoping this will solve the issue. From what I've read, I don't think it's an issue with an injector (since it idles fine) nor do I think it's an issue with a leaky valve cover gasket/PCV (I haven't noticed any change in oil consumption). I'll know more once I have the chance to poke around under the hood.


----------



## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

Bezerker said:


> Welp, we had a huge rainfall down here in Alabama Saturday evening (power at the house even went out for a while). Didn't drive the car Sunday. Drove to work today and it started misfiring when going above 2k RPM. Misfires were violent - shaking the whole car. Noticeable loss of power. CEL light flashed and went away. Car idled just fine, though. It seemed to do better once it reached operating temperature - it was cold (~30 degrees F) this morning so it took a while. After it warmed up, it seemed to run better but I was driving/accelerating very slowly to avoid causing more misfires. Went ahead and ordered new coils/plugs as I need to have the car running since my MkIV is also in the shop  I'm hoping this will solve the issue. From what I've read, I don't think it's an issue with an injector (since it idles fine) nor do I think it's an issue with a leaky valve cover gasket/PCV (I haven't noticed any change in oil consumption). I'll know more once I have the chance to poke around under the hood.


man, your car was really going bezerk, bezerker


----------



## Barn01 (Feb 26, 2011)

Pulled the blower fan and lubed up the squirrel cage bearing. It was making a nasty squeal too bad it was -18C outside and my hands kept freezing after 10-15min. I can't have it failing or even being annoying with this kind of cold scheduled for the week.


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Barn01 said:


> Pulled the blower fan and lubed up the squirrel cage bearing. It was making a nasty squeal too bad it was -18C outside and my hands kept freezing after 10-15min. I can't have it failing or even being annoying with this kind of cold scheduled for the week.


She is definitely cold this week! Don't go drifting to much or the motor will ice up and kick out! haha

Had that happen to me a few weeks ago, over night in the heated parkade and all was well.


----------



## Barn01 (Feb 26, 2011)

Ponto said:


> She is definitely cold this week! Don't go drifting to much or the motor will ice up and kick out! haha
> 
> Had that happen to me a few weeks ago, over night in the heated parkade and all was well.


Ya mine isn't happy below -15C. Anything under that and it's hit or miss if the PCV is going to freeze up on me. I've already replaced it with a newer version and it still does it, just less frequently. The tell tale signs that your PCV is frozen is rough idle and white smoke out the tail pipe while driving. Also every couple weeks I have to clean out the chocolate GUNK under my oil filler cap. It's like pudding in this weather


----------



## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

High beam error:

Tuesday,06,January,2015,08:10:15:01798
VCDS Version: Release 14.10.0 (x64)


Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 8P0-907-279-23-H.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 8P0 907 279 F HW: 8P0 907 279 F
Component and/or Version: Bordnetz-SG H43 1201
Software Coding: B18C5FA18014100000000000300000000008FE175A1500
Work Shop Code: WSC 06314 123 08192
Additional Info: 8P1955119B Wischer AU350 H01 0130 
VCID: 40857EB81384C5212FB-8015
1 Fault Found:


02499 - Right Low Beam Reflector Motor (V295) 
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101100
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 184
Mileage: 120611 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.01.04
Time: 22:22:00


Freeze Frame:
ON
Voltage: 14.00 V
ON
ON
OFF
OFF
OFF


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

That sucks Jorge. Hopefully you can just fixed that part and not the whole lamp.

What could possibly kill my battery...

I purchased a new AutoCraft Platinum AGM H6 battery back in 2013 (sticker stays June 2013). I've been having trouble starting the car so I figured I may have something electrical going on.

I took the battery out of my car last night and put it on a charger for a bit. Last night, I left it at 12.05V. This morning, I checked and it dropped to 11.92V after roughly 8 hours. Going to check again tonight when I get home to see what it is.

So, is it normal that my battery would go bad after 1.5 years? Or is there a gremlin that could be killing it prematurely?


----------



## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

krazyboi said:


> That sucks Jorge. Hopefully you can just fixed that part and not the whole lamp.


Thanks man, but after reading up on the webs, it appears I might have to replace the headlight. Can't find any info on replacing the motor. Sigh


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

krazyboi said:


> That sucks Jorge. Hopefully you can just fixed that part and not the whole lamp.
> 
> What could possibly kill my battery...
> 
> ...


Sounds like an internal short in the battery.. If it was *out* of your car and on a charger, nothing could be discharging it besides a short as far as I know. Did you check the water level?

Lucky for you I'm almost positive that Autocraft has a 100% money back warranty on their batteries for 3 years.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

BeeAlk said:


> Sounds like an internal short in the battery.. If it was *out* of your car and on a charger, nothing could be discharging it besides a short as far as I know. Did you check the water level?
> 
> Lucky for you I'm almost positive that Autocraft has a 100% money back warranty on their batteries for 3 years.


Yea, that's one reason why I didn't mind buying Autocraft. Stupid question, how do I check the water level  and are all batteries serviceable? (I'm just going to take it in for a replacement though)


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

krazyboi said:


> Yea, that's one reason why I didn't mind buying Autocraft. Stupid question, how do I check the water level  and are all batteries serviceable? (I'm just going to take it in for a replacement though)


As far as I know, all lead/acid batteries are serviceable because it's a natural side effect of the battery chemistry to lose water due to gassing. There should be a cap or cover on the top of the battery that pops or screws off. Once you remove it you should be able to see inside the battery. If you can see the lead plates breaching the surface of the acid, it's too low. It's never a bad idea to top off batteries with (distilled) water! 

I've had two batteries last me over a decade of use, each. I think that's due to proper maintenance, including keeping water levels correct and proper charging/discharging. Only time I had a battery fail prematurely was when I crossed some jumper cables (too much beer) in a Volvo I used to drive. I've never seen a battery swell up so fast! :laugh:


----------



## bandphreak587 (Sep 8, 2011)

Anyone wanna sell me a 2.0T long block lol


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

BeeAlk said:


> As far as I know, all lead/acid batteries are serviceable because it's a natural side effect of the battery chemistry to lose water due to gassing. There should be a cap or cover on the top of the battery that pops or screws off. Once you remove it you should be able to see inside the battery. If you can see the lead plates breaching the surface of the acid, it's too low. It's never a bad idea to top off batteries with (distilled) water!
> 
> I've had two batteries last me over a decade of use, each. I think that's due to proper maintenance, including keeping water levels correct and proper charging/discharging. Only time I had a battery fail prematurely was when I crossed some jumper cables (too much beer) in a Volvo I used to drive. I've never seen a battery swell up so fast! :laugh:


I'll try looking tonight but will just take it in for replacement. Once I get out of my warranty, I'll take care of it 

Edit, guess it has a sight glass that I should be able to look into


----------



## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

bandphreak587 said:


> Anyone wanna sell me a 2.0T long block lol


http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_VI--2.0T/Engine/Mechanical/Engine_Block/ES2804322/


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

npace said:


> http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_VI--2.0T/Engine/Mechanical/Engine_Block/ES2804322/


Would it be a straight swap to get the TSI into a FSI A3? I'd assume you'd need a new ECU as well, right?


----------



## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

bandphreak587 said:


> Anyone wanna sell me a 2.0T long block lol


I heard awhile ago that eurospec tuning in gilroy california has an actual S3 motor with ECu for sale


----------



## bandphreak587 (Sep 8, 2011)

No I just need a motor I can build then drop into my car later


----------



## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

Anyone know if these wings below the OEM/Votex load bars are removable, and if so how? They're interfering with the U brackets on my Thule box. TIA.


----------



## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

Yes, I believe they are glued/double sided taped to it if I'm not mistaken.


----------



## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

kb you have an AGM battery, absorbed glass mat, which is a sealed battery. these are the only types of batteries that can be mounted sideways, and are commonly used as an OE whenever the battery is inside the vehicle and not sealed off. it does not use distilled water like a typical lead acid battery. a question i have is, when you charged the battery, was it on the floor? also i see loads of AGM batteries fail prematurely at work, however i do not know why.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

louiekaps said:


> kb you have an AGM battery, absorbed glass mat, which is a sealed battery. these are the only types of batteries that can be mounted sideways, and are commonly used as an OE whenever the battery is inside the vehicle and not sealed off. it does not use distilled water like a typical lead acid battery. a question i have is, when you charged the battery, was it on the floor? also i see loads of AGM batteries fail prematurely at work, however i do not know why.


initially when charging the battery, it was still in the trunk. when i was charging it yesterday, i had it on a workshop bench. would this make a difference?

i double checked and it says it's not serviceable.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

krazyboi said:


> What could possibly kill my battery...
> 
> I purchased a new AutoCraft Platinum AGM H6 battery back in 2013 (sticker stays June 2013). I've been having trouble starting the car so I figured I may have something electrical going on.
> 
> ...


Battery update:

1/5 11:20PM - 12.13V
1/6 5:20AM - 11.92V
1/6 10:40PM - 11.88V


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## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

JT, Pep Boys is having a fantastic sale on Bosch batteries right now. Bought a Group 48 online tonight—my 2.0T barely cranked this morning—and after the instant and mail-in rebates it's going to cost me less than $90. Check it.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

my battery today barely cranked. during the day it recharged itself, but feels like this month will go kaput.


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## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

Kb, that is good aslong as it was not on concrete floor. Now the other thing, every battery charger I've used has a special setting for agm. Not sure how big of a deal it is if you happened to charge it conventionally. Sounds to me like you have a bad battery.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

lausch said:


> JT, Pep Boys is having a fantastic sale on Bosch batteries right now. Bought a Group 48 online tonight—my 2.0T barely cranked this morning—and after the instant and mail-in rebates it's going to cost me less than $90. Check it.


I would check it out if I was out of warranty. The battery for me would be $200 after rebates from Pep Boys.



louiekaps said:


> Kb, that is good as long as it was not on concrete floor. Now the other thing, every battery charger I've used has a special setting for agm. Not sure how big of a deal it is if you happened to charge it conventionally. Sounds to me like you have a bad battery.


So since last night to this morning, it only dropped .01V so I'm at 11.87V. I think it's kaput. 

I have a CTEK charger which doesn't seem to have a AGM setting: http://smartercharger.com/battery-chargers/#CTEK Multi US 3300


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## Bezerker (Nov 12, 2013)

Tcardio said:


> man, your car was really going bezerk, bezerker


Yeah, it was! :laugh: I got new coils and plugs yesterday (red top OEM coils, NGK Platinum plugs - the kit from ECS Tuning). Pulled the old coils and plugs (I put in 4 NGK Iriridum plugs back in November 2013 - had ~62k miles on it then, now up to ~94k). They didn't look terrible, but the engine has run smoothly since changing them. Ordered VAGCOM, so I'll finally be able to scan for codes (and clear the CEL, Service Due) :thumbup: I still have 4k+ miles of warranty, so if I just treated the symptom and not the problem, hopefully that becomes apparent soon!


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## S-LineVinny (Dec 2, 2014)

*Cold Day Warm Up*

People alway say to let the car idle on very cold days until at least the first tick before driving.. I'm finding that unless the car was recently warm, the gauge won't move at all until the car starts being driven. The water pump and TB are almost at time for service but it just seems a little odd that even after almost ten minutes, the gauge doesn't budge at all. I noticed that even when driving (out of boost), the car takes quite long (15mins +) to reach running temp. Normal or just add it to the list of problems?:banghead:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Normal? IDK, but what I can tell you is it is going to take longer to get to a good operating temp in freezing weather. The other thing you have to consider is since it is cold, you're probably running the heater, which means the thermostat is open and is transferring more heat out of the engine bay, making it take longer to warm up. My car only takes about 5 min to get to the 100-120 degree range, but it takes another 5 min or so to get to 215-230, which is where you want it to be, especially if you are going to get into boost. In the summer, I can get to temp in half the time or less. I don't think it's a problem; I think its the effects of physics on a small 4 cyl engine.


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## Bezerker (Nov 12, 2013)

S-LineVinny said:


> People alway say to let the car idle on very cold days until at least the first tick before driving.. I'm finding that unless the car was recently warm, the gauge won't move at all until the car starts being driven. The water pump and TB are almost at time for service but it just seems a little odd that even after almost ten minutes, the gauge doesn't budge at all. I noticed that even when driving (out of boost), the car takes quite long (15mins +) to reach running temp. Normal or just add it to the list of problems?:banghead:


My gauge read 12 degrees on my commute this morning. I had the defrost running full blast for the first 5 minutes of my drive, then switched it over to auto/75 degrees. Temp gauge didn't hit optimal until I was just about to park (so after a 15-20 minute drive).


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

Broke the latch on my center arm rest because I'm dumb. Put my house keys in the middle while I was driving and it wouldn't close so my instinct was to force it. :banghead::banghead:


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

neu318 said:


> Broke the latch on my center arm rest because I'm dumb. Put my house keys in the middle while I was driving and it wouldn't close so my instinct was to force it. :banghead::banghead:


Velcro fix!

Update on my battery issue. Took the battery to Advance Auto and they said it's at 730 cold cranking amps where new is 760 CCA. Going to try and charge it fully to 14.4 and then see what happens before putting it into the car. :banghead:


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

krazyboi said:


> Velcro fix!
> 
> Update on my battery issue. Took the battery to Advance Auto and they said it's at 730 cold cranking amps where new is 760 CCA. Going to try and charge it fully to 14.4 and then see what happens before putting it into the car. :banghead:


Will definitely try that when I get home.

Damn man, still dealing with battery issues. sucks. Hope you get it sorted out.:thumbup:


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

neu318 said:


> Will definitely try that when I get home.
> 
> Damn man, still dealing with battery issues. sucks. Hope you get it sorted out.:thumbup:


Yea, hopefully fully charging it will resolve the issue, but I bet my secondhand alternator from AutoHaas is bad.


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## Barn01 (Feb 26, 2011)

S-LineVinny said:


> People alway say to let the car idle on very cold days until at least the first tick before driving.. I'm finding that unless the car was recently warm, the gauge won't move at all until the car starts being driven. The water pump and TB are almost at time for service but it just seems a little odd that even after almost ten minutes, the gauge doesn't budge at all. I noticed that even when driving (out of boost), the car takes quite long (15mins +) to reach running temp. Normal or just add it to the list of problems?:banghead:


I don't know how cold it was outside where you were but here when it's below -20C it can easily take 20min of driving before I reach operating temp on the gauge. It makes for a long cold drive into work and no I don't let the car idle most of the time. I find it to be a waste of gas.

This morning the dash was reading -27C and it took 5min of driving before it would get out of 3rd (DSG frozen). I changed the t-stat last summer so I know that's not an issue. It's just the car!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Bezerker said:


> My gauge read 12 degrees on my commute this morning. I had the defrost running full blast for the first 5 minutes of my drive, then switched it over to auto/75 degrees. Temp gauge didn't hit optimal until I was just about to park (so after a 15-20 minute drive).


75 degrees is still 63 over the outside temp in that case. I assure you, if you drive with the climate control off for the first 5 minutes (even min is 60 degrees, which is 48 over in this case) it will get to temp much faster.


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## Bezerker (Nov 12, 2013)

npace said:


> 75 degrees is still 63 over the outside temp in that case. I assure you, if you drive with the climate control off for the first 5 minutes (even min is 60 degrees, which is 48 over in this case) it will get to temp much faster.


I'll try that tomorrow morning. The main thing I run into is a fogged windshield. I have to run the defrost (at least initially), otherwise I can't see


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Bezerker said:


> I'll try that tomorrow morning. The main thing I run into is a fogged windshield. I have to run the defrost (at least initially), otherwise I can't see


Well, seeing is probably more important. I wouldn't worry about it all that much unless you get into heavy boost during your commute.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Barn01 said:


> This morning the dash was reading -27C


Yikes. It was over 80F yesterday. I wish it would get colder because now my door lock is working again and it's a lot harder to fix something that isn't broken at the time.


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## S-LineVinny (Dec 2, 2014)

Glad to know I'm not alone on that subject, the past week has been below -15C but usually any temp under 0 just seems a little long. Understandably cold wether has an effect, usually I just keep the windshield defogger on the lowest level just so I can see.. Thank god for six stage seat warmers....

Thanks for the input, all!


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## eh (Mar 4, 2003)

Front inner CV boot and right rear wheel bearing. It never ends.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

krazyboi said:


> Update on my battery issue. Took the battery to Advance Auto and they said it's at 730 cold cranking amps where new is 760 CCA. Going to try and charge it fully to 14.4 and then see what happens before putting it into the car. :banghead:


More updates for those who care. I took the battery home and changed the bitch. It got to 12.7V and stopped charging. My CTEK charger was blinking weird so I looked and it meant that whatever reason, the battery is bad and can't charge any more.

Took my battery back to Advance Auto where the threw their stupid diagnostic machine against the battery and it says the battery is fine still. I left it with them overnight and they said it barely dropped over the past 12-15 hours. :banghead: Without their stupid machine showing a default battery, they couldn't replace it under warranty for me.

So, now I will try to go chase this gremlin. A mechanic who was in the store told me I may have a parasitic draw on the battery (which was recommended to me by Tbomb many million months ago to test for). Just sucks b/c my battery is in the trunk...and all fuses are up front.

On another note, I found out that when the auto up/down buttons on the windows don't work, you don't have to lower the window all the way down first to get it working. Just lower it 2 inches, then raise it all the way and hold for a few seconds. The auto up/down will now work again. :thumbup:


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

krazyboi said:


> More updates for those who care. I took the battery home and changed the bitch. It got to 12.7V and stopped charging. My CTEK charger was blinking weird so I looked and it meant that whatever reason, the battery is bad and can't charge any more.
> 
> Took my battery back to Advance Auto where the threw their stupid diagnostic machine against the battery and it says the battery is fine still. I left it with them overnight and they said it barely dropped over the past 12-15 hours. :banghead: Without their stupid machine showing a default battery, they couldn't replace it under warranty for me.
> 
> ...


It's really quite easy to check for parasitic draw on your battery. Narrowing down which circuit it's happening on is the time consuming part.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

Iam following this battery issue, g/L hope it gets sorted soon


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

BeeAlk said:


> It's really quite easy to check for parasitic draw on your battery. Narrowing down which circuit it's happening on is the time consuming part.


True, at least I have eBahn on my side once I find the culprit. Gonna see if I can get a child to look at the multimeter while I pull fuses.


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## eh (Mar 4, 2003)

Just give up and part/sell the car. I'll take your brakes.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

eh said:


> Just give up and part/sell the car. I'll take your brakes.


I get dibs on... everything else!


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

BeeAlk said:


> I get dibs on... everything else!


That's what I would've done too. Or at least the turbo kit first :laugh:


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## wishntoboutside (Mar 11, 2002)

I had a license plate bulb go out this week. The dash indicator thing sensor is bigger the the bulb itself. The good news is I got to see a new q3 when picking up the bulb. Very nice auto, but the would not let me take it for a test drive.. They must have been warned in advance about me. Lol


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

wishntoboutside said:


> I had a license plate bulb go out this week. The dash indicator thing sensor is bigger the the bulb itself. The good news is I got to see a new q3 when picking up the bulb. Very nice auto, but the would not let me take it for a test drive.. They must have been warned in advance about me. Lol


I'm surprised you went to the dealer to pick up a light bulb...


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## wishntoboutside (Mar 11, 2002)

krazyboi said:


> I'm surprised you went to the dealer to pick up a light bulb...


Me too. The dealer is closer than pep boys. After a long day in the office I did not have the paintence for the lack of customer service there. Just happy it's fixed


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## Ratfester (Jul 10, 2008)

Flywheel rattle, thermostat housing leaking, 2 oxygen sensors being replaced. A month after DSG output seal replacement and 75K service. :banghead:


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

BeeAlk said:


> It's really quite easy to check for parasitic draw on your battery. Narrowing down which circuit it's happening on is the time consuming part.





2006_A3_2.0T said:


> Iam following this battery issue, g/L hope it gets sorted soon





krazyboi said:


> True, at least I have eBahn on my side once I find the culprit. Gonna see if I can get a child to look at the multimeter while I pull fuses.


So, it looks like my issue is my RNS-E. When I lock my car, everything turns off after 30 seconds or so and drops to 0.07/0.08 amps. After a few minutes, my head unit wakes up (nothing on display, but you do see it light up slightly and you hear slight white noise) and the reading is a little above 4.0 amps. It then keeps cycling like that, on/off on/off. 

Now what?

I went from Symphony II to RNS-E and also have a Dension Gateway 100. I disconnected the Dension and it still did the same thing.

Vag-com faults:

Address 37: Navigation Labels: 8E0-035-192-RNSE.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 035 192 HW: 8P0 035 192 
Component: RNS-E US H46 0260 
Revision: 03S Serial number: AUZBZ7S0003500
Coding: 0225213
Shop #: WSC 06435 000 00000
VCID: 6CDCDE144FEB5041A33-8039

2 Faults Found:
00446 - Function Limitation due to Under-Voltage 
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 150
Mileage: 154742 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.11.25
Time: 22:15:50

Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 10.50 V
Mileage: 154740 km
Count: 2511
Clock: 22:17

16352 - Control Module - Electrical Error 
014 - Defective
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101110
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 225
Mileage: 112528 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.12.16
Time: 17:59:39

I also have this too, which upon pulling the heating and a/c fuse, it dropped too:

Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8P0-820-043.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 820 043 Q HW: 8P0 820 043 Q
Component: KlimavollautomatH18 0260 
Revision: 025899 Serial number: 8P0820043Q 
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 3A70284C753F3EF161F-806F

1 Fault Found:
00796 - Fan for Interior Temp Sensor (V42) 
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101011
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 173
Mileage: 153636 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.10.20
Time: 17:30:28

Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 13.20 V
Temperature: 29.0°C


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

krazyboi said:


> So, it looks like my issue is my RNS-E. When I lock my car, everything turns off after 30 seconds or so and drops to 0.07/0.08 amps. After a few minutes, my head unit wakes up (nothing on display, but you do see it light up slightly and you hear slight white noise) and the reading is a little above 4.0 amps. It then keeps cycling like that, on/off on/off.
> 
> Now what?
> 
> ...



I have the same Auto HVAC fault, always had. my .02


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Update, figured out my issue. 










That right there is the Dension Gateway 100. I was tracing the wiring from there to the car and things were whack. Removed it, sat in car for 10 min and didn't hear the Navi come back on. 

I'm sure it's a ground wiring issue in the harness. Easier to remove the whole thing then troubleshoot.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

I'd say you got lucky.. at least it's something you could easily unplug. Imagine if it were in a main harness somewhere..


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## bandphreak587 (Sep 8, 2011)

What's wrong where do I begin... 

Lol I need motor mount spacers or a slimmer oil pan. Anyone done either of these?


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## bobbeck (Jan 4, 2001)

This. 




Audi - 0 

Tahoe - 1


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## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

Sorry. Wheels for sale?


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

lucky the window was up at that moment. .. will you get a new door shell?


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## bobbeck (Jan 4, 2001)

Haven't seen an adjuster yet, just made the claim on the other guys insurance today. Yup, glad the window was up cause it's not going anywhere now.


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## Bezerker (Nov 12, 2013)

Bezerker said:


> Welp, we had a huge rainfall down here in Alabama Saturday evening (power at the house even went out for a while). Didn't drive the car Sunday. Drove to work today and it started misfiring when going above 2k RPM. Misfires were violent - shaking the whole car. Noticeable loss of power. CEL light flashed and went away. Car idled just fine, though. It seemed to do better once it reached operating temperature - it was cold (~30 degrees F) this morning so it took a while. After it warmed up, it seemed to run better but I was driving/accelerating very slowly to avoid causing more misfires. Went ahead and ordered new coils/plugs as I need to have the car running since my MkIV is also in the shop  I'm hoping this will solve the issue. From what I've read, I don't think it's an issue with an injector (since it idles fine) nor do I think it's an issue with a leaky valve cover gasket/PCV (I haven't noticed any change in oil consumption). I'll know more once I have the chance to poke around under the hood.


So I thought I had this problem resolved, but ... no :banghead: I put in NGK platinum plugs and red OEM coils back on January 6. I got VAGCOM that weekend and found two codes (don't have the exact codes on me right now): misfire in cylinder 3 and random/intermittent misfire. Problems went away for about a week. Then I noticed it was running slightly rougher at cold starts and acceleration was "wobbly" until my engine warmed up. This was most noticeable when going up hills - there seems to be some hesitation. Once my engine warms up, I have no issues. I started it up yesterday and had the same issue going to work. Leaving work, my CEL lit up and stayed lit as soon as I started the car - but performance was the same (slightly rough while cold). Once it was warmed up, it ran fine. Came home, scanned for codes - same ones as before popped up. I cleared them. Ran the car this morning - same performance issues but no CEL. I still have about 3.5k miles in warranty left, but I don't know how helpful the dealer will be (they may just fuss at me for running non-OEM branded plugs). If the code comes back, I'll have it towed to the dealer (1.5 hours away). I'm going to check out the gap on the plugs this evening though I doubt that's the issue. Reading through the forums, I find that it could be any number of things (carbon buildup, bad fuel injector, bad coolant temp sensor, bad intake manifold, vacuum leak, bad fuel pump ... the list goes on).


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## Evo V (Dec 29, 2010)

Bezerker said:


> So I thought I had this problem resolved, but ... no :banghead: I put in NGK platinum plugs and red OEM coils back on January 6. I got VAGCOM that weekend and found two codes (don't have the exact codes on me right now): misfire in cylinder 3 and random/intermittent misfire. Problems went away for about a week. Then I noticed it was running slightly rougher at cold starts and acceleration was "wobbly" until my engine warmed up. This was most noticeable when going up hills - there seems to be some hesitation. Once my engine warms up, I have no issues. I started it up yesterday and had the same issue going to work. Leaving work, my CEL lit up and stayed lit as soon as I started the car - but performance was the same (slightly rough while cold). Once it was warmed up, it ran fine. Came home, scanned for codes - same ones as before popped up. I cleared them. Ran the car this morning - same performance issues but no CEL. I still have about 3.5k miles in warranty left, but I don't know how helpful the dealer will be (they may just fuss at me for running non-OEM branded plugs). If the code comes back, I'll have it towed to the dealer (1.5 hours away). I'm going to check out the gap on the plugs this evening though I doubt that's the issue. Reading through the forums, I find that it could be any number of things (carbon buildup, bad fuel injector, bad coolant temp sensor, bad intake manifold, vacuum leak, bad fuel pump ... the list goes on).


I have TSI engine but had similar issues when I first got the car (at 90K miles). I swapped plugs and coil packs and from time to time I would have misfire. I checked the coil packs and one was popping up just slightly. I pushed it in and it went away. I later cleaned the intake valves and never had this issue again.


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## Bezerker (Nov 12, 2013)

Evo V said:


> I have TSI engine but had similar issues when I first got the car (at 90K miles). I swapped plugs and coil packs and from time to time I would have misfire. I checked the coil packs and one was popping up just slightly. I pushed it in and it went away. I later cleaned the intake valves and never had this issue again.


How long has it been since you cleaned the intake valves?


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Nothing wrong persay. 

But apparently its been it's been 62k miles since the DSG was last done.


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## Evo V (Dec 29, 2010)

Bezerker said:


> How long has it been since you cleaned the intake valves?


Almost 80K miles. I replaced intake manifold 50k miles later and cleaned them again. I didn't have to - there was a very little build up. I had to replace water pump two weeks ago and removed the intake manifold again. There was a very little build up so I didn't bother to clean it. I would say if you clean them at 80-100k miles you will be fine.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Evo V said:


> I would say if you clean them at 80-100k miles you will be fine.


Every engine is different. My '06 FSI would be choking to death at that point. The wife's '08 TSI would be fine though.


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## Evo V (Dec 29, 2010)

MisterJJ said:


> Every engine is different. My '06 FSI would be choking to death at that point. The wife's '08 TSI would be fine though.


I remember the pictures of yours. That motivated me to clean mine the first time. :beer:


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## savs9two (Jan 16, 2014)

Okay so this has been happening for a while now, the cars at 195000km I don't know what that is in miles but basically my car has a vibration while driving at speeds 100-140km/h even when I let off the gas it still vibrates. I bought brand new tires and rims so it cant be the balancing of the tires, I changed both cv axles left and right, now all im doing is guessing. The brakes are getting changed all around very soon but all I can think of is a warp in my rotors? Any ideas? anyone have this happen to them...


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## bandphreak587 (Sep 8, 2011)

Brake rotors?


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

savs9two said:


> Okay so this has been happening for a while now, the cars at 195000km I don't know what that is in miles but basically my car has a vibration while driving at speeds 100-140km/h even when I let off the gas it still vibrates. I bought brand new tires and rims so it cant be the balancing of the tires, I changed both cv axles left and right, now all im doing is guessing. The brakes are getting changed all around very soon but all I can think of is a warp in my rotors? Any ideas? anyone have this happen to them...


I have the same thing. It appeared after changing wheels and tires, also re-balanced them. I will turn the brake rotors with new pads. 
Also gonna swap the wheel bolts, from ball to conical. If it goes the same I think theres something wrong with the new tires or wheels.


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## savs9two (Jan 16, 2014)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> I have the same thing. It appeared after changing wheels and tires, also re-balanced them. I will turn the brake rotors with new pads.
> Also gonna swap the wheel bolts, from ball to conical. If it goes the same I think theres something wrong with the new tires or wheels.


It was happening with my old set of tires and rims and I changed them and it was still happening... I will change my rotors and pads soon but wont know until then.. hopefully nothing to do serious


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## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

savs9two said:


> Okay so this has been happening for a while now, the cars at 195000km I don't know what that is in miles but basically my car has a vibration while driving at speeds 100-140km/h even when I let off the gas it still vibrates. I bought brand new tires and rims so it cant be the balancing of the tires, I changed both cv axles left and right, now all im doing is guessing. The brakes are getting changed all around very soon but all I can think of is a warp in my rotors? Any ideas? anyone have this happen to them...


How many miles on the tires? Have the rears been rotated to the front? The rears of these cars like to cup tires. The cupping is less noticeable in the rear, but once moved to the front unbearable in some cases. Regarding the axles, what brand? I had a bad vibration—among other problems—with an Empi axle from ECS. They took it back, and I rebooted my OEM axle.


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## savs9two (Jan 16, 2014)

lausch said:


> How many miles on the tires? Have the rears been rotated to the front? The rears of these cars like to cup tires. The cupping is less noticeable in the rear, but once moved to the front unbearable in some cases. Regarding the axles, what brand? I had a bad vibration—among other problems—with an Empi axle from ECS. They took it back, and I rebooted my OEM axle.


The tires are brand new bro, I don't know what brand the cv axles are but theyre aftermarket from one of my parts guys. Had my audi mechanic look at it and theres absolutely no play in both axles. Im gonna do my brakes soon hopefully its just a warped rotor.


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

Bezerker said:


> So I thought I had this problem resolved, but ... no :banghead: I put in NGK platinum plugs and red OEM coils back on January 6. I got VAGCOM that weekend and found two codes (don't have the exact codes on me right now): misfire in cylinder 3 and random/intermittent misfire. Problems went away for about a week. Then I noticed it was running slightly rougher at cold starts and acceleration was "wobbly" until my engine warmed up. This was most noticeable when going up hills - there seems to be some hesitation. Once my engine warms up, I have no issues. I started it up yesterday and had the same issue going to work. Leaving work, my CEL lit up and stayed lit as soon as I started the car - but performance was the same (slightly rough while cold). Once it was warmed up, it ran fine. Came home, scanned for codes - same ones as before popped up. I cleared them. Ran the car this morning - same performance issues but no CEL. I still have about 3.5k miles in warranty left, but I don't know how helpful the dealer will be (they may just fuss at me for running non-OEM branded plugs). If the code comes back, I'll have it towed to the dealer (1.5 hours away). I'm going to check out the gap on the plugs this evening though I doubt that's the issue. Reading through the forums, I find that it could be any number of things (carbon buildup, bad fuel injector, bad coolant temp sensor, bad intake manifold, vacuum leak, bad fuel pump ... the list goes on).


I don't know about you guys but reading all this without paragraphs makes me go bezerker!


----------



## vwlippy (Jul 17, 2001)

My car is sooooo dirty....


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

vwlippy said:


> My car is sooooo dirty....


Same here, dash is full of dust and floors are full of dirt and dog hair...:banghead::banghead:


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

vwlippy said:


> My car is sooooo dirty....


We need a "post your dirty car pic" thread. Mine looks like I drive through chocolate milk.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

krazyboi said:


> We need a "post your dirty car pic" thread. Mine looks like I drive through chocolate milk.


Created.


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## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

savs9two said:


> The tires are brand new bro, I don't know what brand the cv axles are but theyre aftermarket from one of my parts guys. Had my audi mechanic look at it and theres absolutely no play in both axles. Im gonna do my brakes soon hopefully its just a warped rotor.


An axle that is poorly balanced during remanufacturing could cause a vibration with no "play."


----------



## daniel.ramirez (Nov 24, 2001)

*Rapid Unplanned Disassembly? I hope not!*

Over the weekend I was on my way to see Seth Meyers do stand-up in the WinStar casino in Oklahoma, we stopped in Oklahoma City to check the Osteology museum (it was great, I highly recommend it), so I start the car, idle was rough, like multiple misfires at low rpm, at high rpms the engine seemed fine. After a mile I stopped to take a picture, turned off the engine; and then it never started again.

I always drive with tools, a spare coilpack, computer and the VCDS cable, not in this trip... :banghead: 

Had the car towed to Bob Moore Audi, I hope it's something simple, like a sensor, or all 4 coilpacks.

Update: got the call, no compression in any cylinder!  I'm at 120,000 miles, I hope it's only the timming chain/tensioner.


----------



## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

^^^ Argh, hope it turns out OK.

My crank pulley bolt loosened up (for the 3rd time) and was sounding more and more like a diesel for the second or two coming off the brakes into light acceleration. Tried a new shop that specializes in BMW after two go rounds at the local VAG "performance" shop. They said that the bolt started to back out easily, but then hung up. They were afraid to shear it off, so they stopped and retorqued it past spec. to see if it holds. I may just buy a counterhold wrench to add to my trunk tool kit...


----------



## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

JRutter said:


> ^^^ Argh, hope it turns out OK.
> 
> My crank pulley bolt loosened up (for the 3rd time) and was sounding more and more like a diesel for the second or two coming off the brakes into light acceleration. Tried a new shop that specializes in BMW after two go rounds at the local VAG "performance" shop. They said that the bolt started to back out easily, but then hung up. They were afraid to shear it off, so they stopped and retorqued it past spec. to see if it holds. I may just buy a counterhold wrench to add to my trunk tool kit...


Sounds like the threads in the crank have basically been worn due to the first time the bolt was loose.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

crew219 said:


> Sounds like the threads in the crank have basically been worn due to the first time the bolt was loose.


I am hoping that it is just the outer threads that may be galling. I do have a friend with a crank from his R32 that blew a piston, so if worse comes to worse...


----------



## ceese (Jul 2, 2011)

Felt the tranny slip and then the service engine light came on. Might be time for a new car.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

ceese said:


> Felt the tranny slip and then the service engine light came on. Might be time for a new car.


You're alive...

And how bad was the slip? What codes? 

Nevermind that, just do a manual swap and or sell me your grill along with any other parts I might want. 

PS Leavenworth! Got a case of Sleemans with your name on it.


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## ceese (Jul 2, 2011)

Ponto said:


> You're alive...
> 
> And how bad was the slip? What codes?
> 
> ...


Looking forward to Leavenworth. I'm going to test drive an A4 Avant and 2010 A5 2.0 tomorrow. If I do a trade in this week I will be pulling all of the parts off my car so my suspension and everything is going up for sale. Part of me took the code as a sign, I put my notice in at work then an hour went to later had the transmission slip and light come on. If I'm starting a new company don't want to be worrying about my car. As much as I'll miss the A3 I'm more comfortable with a CPO for the time being.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

ceese said:


> Looking forward to Leavenworth. I'm going to test drive an A4 Avant and 2010 A5 2.0 tomorrow. If I do a trade in this week I will be pulling all of the parts off my car so my suspension and everything is going up for sale. Part of me took the code as a sign, I put my notice in at work then an hour went to later had the transmission slip and light come on. If I'm starting a new company don't want to be worrying about my car. As much as I'll miss the A3 I'm more comfortable with a CPO for the time being.


You sticking in Seattle then? Good luck with the test drives - hope you find something and get the car curse lifted.


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## REvolution01 (Feb 17, 2012)

Broken window regulator, at least it's not raining! :thumbdown:


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## ceese (Jul 2, 2011)

JRutter said:


> You sticking in Seattle then? Good luck with the test drives - hope you find something and get the car curse lifted.


Yep staying put, might be moving to the east side since I expect that is where most of my business will come from.

It really does feel like a curse now that you mention it. Man, I love the A3 and if I make a trade am going to miss it but two accidents in under a year, the car just has not been right since. I'm also going to miss the 3.2L engine and since I just don't seeing switching sides in 2.0 vs 3.2 debate  I'm opening myself up to it. Although I suppose I could get an S4, S5 or TTRS and avoid the 2.0T all together.


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## dman4486 (Jun 22, 2011)

Misfire cylinder 3. Moved the Coil to Cyl 2 and the misfire moved. 55k miles. I've still got a random shudder so I think I'll replace the rest of them.


----------



## cruzanstx (Oct 10, 2011)

Warrantied: PCV/Valve cover replacement, timing chain job and axel boots up front


----------



## eurotuned00 (Jul 16, 2007)

Did a valve cleaning job, pretty dirty aftwr 111k
Also replace an ac hose that decided to burst a few days ago.


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Apparently my Waterpump is leaking and on it's way out 

Dropped the car off for DSG Service and Oil change... Figures.


----------



## bandphreak587 (Sep 8, 2011)

My clear coat is peeling on just about every plastic exterior part


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

bandphreak587 said:


> My clear coat is peeling on just about every plastic exterior part


Oh **** really? All the bumpers and mouldings? Thats messed up.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

ceese said:


> Yep staying put, might be moving to the east side since I expect that is where most of my business will come from.
> 
> It really does feel like a curse now that you mention it. Man, I love the A3 and if I make a trade am going to miss it but two accidents in under a year, the car just has not been right since. I'm also going to miss the 3.2L engine and since I just don't seeing switching sides in 2.0 vs 3.2 debate  I'm opening myself up to it. Although I suppose I could get an *S4, S5 or TTRS* and avoid the 2.0T all together.


Now you're thinking!!!

Thats one of the reasons I am hesitant about getting an Allroad next.


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## bandphreak587 (Sep 8, 2011)

Ponto said:


> Oh **** really? All the bumpers and mouldings? Thats messed up.


Well the bumpers yes it makes my brillant red look dull and flakey and the rear bumper spots fill with dirt so and it looks even worse


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## bandphreak587 (Sep 8, 2011)

Ponto said:


> Now you're thinking!!!
> 
> Thats one of the reasons I am hesitant about getting an Allroad next.


I'm actually looking at an imola yellow S4 avant Or an brillant black RS4 next but I'm still hesitant because I love my A3 and what I've done to it! It would be a shame if I just said ok I want something better! And up and left her. Although doing that to my wife is a fantastic idea!! Lol


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

Ponto said:


> Apparently my Waterpump is leaking and on it's way out
> 
> Dropped the car off for DSG Service and Oil change... Figures.


Replace with the metal impeller version?


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

JRutter said:


> Replace with the metal impeller version?


Naturally. 

But funny cause I replaced it along with almost everything on the accessory side on the last A3. :sly:

Anyone got the part number for the metal one? 

Guess I am at 100k miles almost so not bad ?? lol


----------



## a4000 (Apr 23, 2009)

Ponto said:


> Naturally.
> 
> But funny cause I replaced it along with almost everything on the accessory side on the last A3. :sly:
> 
> ...


I recently got this one...

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES4713/


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

just replaced spark plugs and discovered that the 2 sp farthest to the passenger side were loose leaking oil to the coils.

that xplains the sweated oil over the valve cover around those coils.


Now Iam running NGK's platinum with correct gap of 0.028, but feel the car with better response overall, specially low end, while top end feels the same or less. smoother all around but feels that I loosed a bit of top end that the Denso IK22 were giving. just a report.

did the change to please the tuner, buy I still can't tune my car because the driver programer is stuck on customs since a month ago.


----------



## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

a4000 said:


> I recently got this one...
> 
> http://www.ecstuning.com/ES4713/


Yep, the MK4 R32 pump.


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

JRutter said:


> Yep, the MK4 R32 pump.


Bump. 

So I forgot I changed the water pump already. 25k km ago with the metal impeller revision. The shaft seal went on it. 

Pump Changed again. 

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


----------



## hentotheree (Dec 3, 2014)

I need to replace my water pump, fml


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

heard that there are lots of wp revisions for the tsi


----------



## daniel.ramirez (Nov 24, 2001)

Intake valves bent... seems like the timing chain tensioner failed and the chain skipped over 4 tooth... last number is over 4K in parts and labor...


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

daniel.ramirez said:


> Intake valves bent... seems like the timing chain tensioner failed and the chain skipped over 4 tooth... last number is over 4K in parts and labor...


If you're in the states I would get a whole engine.


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## ceese (Jul 2, 2011)

Ponto said:


> Now you're thinking!!!
> 
> Thats one of the reasons I am hesitant about getting an Allroad next.


Test drove the A5 and A4 Avant 2.0 yesterday. Both nice cars but they felt gutless next to my 3.2 especially pulling out. Convinced me that a part of me really doesn't want to give up the 3.2. 

VagCom came FedEx saturday delivery from a buddy in the Windy city today. I'll be pulling codes this afternoon if I can find the power plug for my laptop. Should know the final verdict.


----------



## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

Get in a tuned 2.0t and tell me it feels gutless compared to a 3.2.......


----------



## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

louiekaps said:


> Get in a tuned 2.0t and tell me it feels gutless compared to a 3.2.......


The 2.0t will never have the same immediate throttle response as the 3.2. 

A chipped or even stage 3 2.0t can be pretty fun, but I prefer something with more cylinders for immediate power delivery.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

crew219 said:


> The 2.0t will never have the same immediate throttle response as the 3.2.
> 
> A chipped or even stage 3 2.0t can be pretty fun, but I prefer something with more cylinders for immediate power delivery.


yep the 2.0T power delivery is different. 
I think the only reason to stick to the 4cyl is the mpg's.


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## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

I've lined up with a couple r32's and a 3.2 tt and had no problem staying in front.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

louiekaps said:


> I've lined up with a couple r32's and a 3.2 tt and had no problem staying in front.


yeah power wise they are close but power delivery, powerband, driveability, power response etc.


----------



## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

I'm with you on that! Two weeks ago I had the car in stock mode to pass emmissions and my God was it awful!


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Update on door latch intermittently not working:

Took the mechanism apart (not simple) and everything looked okay so I suspected the little electric motor. Pried the thing open and there was lots of crud inside. Cleaned it out, along with cleaning the brush contact surfaces, and put everything back together (even less simple). Works perfectly.


----------



## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

MisterJJ said:


> Update on door latch intermittently not working:
> 
> Took the mechanism apart (not simple) and everything looked okay so I suspected the little electric motor. Pried the thing open and there was lots of crud inside. Cleaned it out, along with cleaning the brush contact surfaces, and put everything back together (even less simple). Works perfectly.


I doubt you took pics, but you, Sir, owe us a DIY. 

Glad it worked out. :beer:


----------



## DutchcaribbeanGTI (Dec 7, 2000)

*Broken SPM engine mount*




The engine mount was less than a year old. I have contacted Drive SPM for replacement inserts. Response from them was, replacement inserts are not available, we can sell you a new mount at a discounted price.

Anyone knows if the BSH or VF engeneering inserts fits the SPM hardware.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

npace said:


> I doubt you took pics, but you, Sir, owe us a DIY.
> 
> Glad it worked out. :beer:


Yeah. Thought about that afterwards. Well.. when the next one fails...


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## daniel.ramirez (Nov 24, 2001)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> If you're in the states I would get a whole engine.


I found a new engine in ebay for $3,600, (around 4K including shipping), but it's about another 2K for labor... :banghead: decisions, decisions!


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

how hard is it to replace the water pump on the 3.2? I might have to do this soon.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

neu318 said:


> how hard is it to replace the water pump on the 3.2? I might have to do this soon.


I'll look later and let you know. I can send you info if you PM me your email.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

well, my car has been doing fine sice time ago. 

but 2 things happened today:

first the driver's door inner handle became loose, like I was going to close the door inside and the handle fell apart on me. I put it but its all loose. 

second: went to the highway because family beach day, and I was driving spirited, when I had to do a U-turn to acces a restaurant, 
and in the take off engine misfired, with flashing CEL of death. I was crossing fingers not to be a missed tooth on the chain, but
in the end was just a random mifire (typical on the A3). Odd it has new red coils and new spark plugs. 
But it was with the AC on, so Iam blaming the AC load on the engine caused it?


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> well, my car has been doing fine sice time ago.
> 
> but 2 things happened today:
> 
> ...


Your handle broke. It's a tiny stupid tab holding the whole handle to the door at the top. Kinda common. I fixed mine with epoxy and longer screws going into the door card. Pop off the little cover that the switch is on and you'll see what's going on.

Misfires can be from carbon buildup.. or a coil pack isn't pushed in all the way.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> Your handle broke. It's a tiny stupid tab holding the whole handle to the door at the top. Kinda common. I fixed mine with epoxy and longer screws going into the door card. Pop off the little cover that the switch is on and you'll see what's going on.
> 
> Misfires can be from carbon buildup.. or a coil pack isn't pushed in all the way.


:thumbup: thx BeeAlk!

yeah gotta take the door appart. Good advice on the fix.. definetly need that sorted out. Also I need to install too the new windows switch. 

Its weird that a coil pack is loose, but gonna take a look. eace:


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Lately my rear brakes are loud as ****! If my car sits for more than 5 minutes in park (or if I'm on the highway and don't use the breaks for more than 5 minutes), when I go to use them my rear brakes screech and grind like mad! Then it goes away after a bit of braking. It's as if the rotors are getting "surface rust" almost immediately. Checked the pads (outter pads at least) and they're plenty thick at about 5mm. What gives??

Also I've developed some sort of knock/clunk/groan at the front passenger side suspension during braking, right at the moments before coming to a complete stop. This happened before this past summer on hot days, then went away. Now it suddenly came back and it's much worse than before.. not sure if it's actually coming from the brakes or the suspension somewhere. Kinda frustrating.

Anyone have any ideas?


----------



## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

BeeAlk said:


> Lately my rear brakes are loud as ****! If my car sits for more than 5 minutes in park (or if I'm on the highway and don't use the breaks for more than 5 minutes), when I go to use them my rear brakes screech and grind like mad! Then it goes away after a bit of braking. It's as if the rotors are getting "surface rust" almost immediately. Checked the pads (outter pads at least) and they're plenty thick at about 5mm. What gives??
> 
> Also I've developed some sort of knock/clunk/groan at the front passenger side suspension during braking, right at the moments before coming to a complete stop. This happened before this past summer on hot days, then went away. Now it suddenly came back and it's much worse than before.. not sure if it's actually coming from the brakes or the suspension somewhere. Kinda frustrating.
> 
> Anyone have any ideas?


Rear brakes: If there's plenty of pad life, check the rotor to see if there's grooves in it. It's possible a small pebble got stuck in there somewhere and is causing all the racket. 

Your knock/clunk, without hearing it or knowing more, reminds me of the common subframe clunk, the way you describe it. Do you have the tyrolsport kit installed? That's the fix. I think USP is selling one now too for a few dollars less.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

npace said:


> Rear brakes: If there's plenty of pad life, check the rotor to see if there's grooves in it. It's possible a small pebble got stuck in there somewhere and is causing all the racket.
> 
> Your knock/clunk, without hearing it or knowing more, reminds me of the common subframe clunk, the way you describe it. Do you have the tyrolsport kit installed? That's the fix. I think USP is selling one now too for a few dollars less.


Thanks for the ideas. 

As far as the rear brakes, I'm skeptical that it's a pebble or some debris jammed up in there because this happens on both sides. However the passenger side is much worse.. Maybe with all the salt the past fews weeks there's some sort of crap built up somewhere.

Knock/clunk - I was kind of suspecting subframe noise as well. I don't have the tyrol sport kit installed but it is in the plans. Maybe it'll happen sooner than I was planning. I'll have to look into the USP alternative as I always thought the Tyrol kit was a bit too pricey for what it is.

I've been extremely busy with work/school/life and haven't been able to do much more than oil changes - and probably won't even be able to do that over the next 2 months. I'm hoping nothing falls apart in the mean time.


----------



## vwlippy (Jul 17, 2001)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> first the driver's door inner handle became loose, like I was going to close the door inside and the handle fell apart on me. I put it but its all loose.


Check this thread for a fix I posted a while back. 
Its not fancy, but works. Mine has held ever since. 

http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?5389719-Awesome-Door-handle-broke!


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

vwlippy said:


> Check this thread for a fix I posted a while back.
> Its not fancy, but works. Mine has held ever since.
> 
> http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?5389719-Awesome-Door-handle-broke!


good write up thx


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

I recorded what my brakes sounded like this morning.. this is how it sounds after every time I park for a little while. It's ****ing embarrassing!






Both rear brakes doing it but it's much worse on the passenger side. never did it before. It goes away completely once the brakes have a little heat in them.


----------



## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

BeeAlk said:


> Both rear brakes doing it but it's much worse on the passenger side. never did it before. It goes away completely once the brakes have a little heat in them.


Stock pads and rotors?


----------



## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

BeeAlk - might want to check the inner pads as well - they wear faster for me. 

As far as what's wrong with my A3, I'm going to give my crank pulley one last ditch effort with some loctite 660 in the keyway and then loctite the pulley onto the shaft nose and loctite a new bolt in after chasing the threads with a tap. If that fails, I am looking at a new crankshaft. I do have an R32 buddy with one that I can get for a beer, but still, labor and incidentals could easily go $2K.  Moral of the story: don't go swapping pullies lightly, and if you do, make sure that the shop uses a new bolt and is running in and torquing it by hand.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

lausch said:


> Stock pads and rotors?


Not sure. Are Textar pads what're used in OEM? That's what's stamped on them. I'm guessing rotors are stock. Know what the lower limits on the rotors are? I'll pull out the caliper tool and check the thickness.



JRutter said:


> BeeAlk - might want to check the inner pads as well - they wear faster for me.


Interesting that inner pads would wear faster.. I'm making time to check out the brakes thoroughly this weekend. 



JRutter said:


> As far as what's wrong with my A3, I'm going to give my crank pulley one last ditch effort with some loctite 660 in the keyway and then loctite the pulley onto the shaft nose and loctite a new bolt in after chasing the threads with a tap. If that fails, I am looking at a new crankshaft. I do have an R32 buddy with one that I can get for a beer, but still, labor and incidentals could easily go $2K.  Moral of the story: don't go swapping pullies lightly, and if you do, make sure that the shop uses a new bolt and is running in and torquing it by hand.


This right here is nightmare material. Good luck.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> Not sure. Are Textar pads what're used in OEM? That's what's stamped on them. I'm guessing rotors are stock. Know what the lower limits on the rotors are? I'll pull out the caliper tool and check the thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Maybe just turn the rotors along with new pads.

Rrecently I had my rear pads serviced with a set of metallic pads. They are loud, they tinted my wheels from black to cooper-like with so much brake pads dust.
They stop fine but just got a new set front/rear Akebono ceramics brake pads, gonna turn the rotors too. :thumbup:


----------



## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

Could the emergency brake be causing the noise? Do you use it regularly? Stock and stockish rotors are relatively inexpensive—my rule of thumb is: replace the pads, replace the rotors. YMMV.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> Maybe just turn the rotors along with new pads.
> 
> Rrecently I had my rear pads serviced with a set of metallic pads. They are loud, they tinted my wheels from black to cooper-like with so much brake pads dust.
> They stop fine but just got a new set front/rear Akebono ceramics brake pads, gonna turn the rotors too. :thumbup:


If they need resurfacing I will just replace them. Not a big fan of the idea of resurfacing, plus our rear rotors are already thin as hell. I'm sure there isn't much room to make them much thinner. 



lausch said:


> Could the emergency brake be causing the noise? Do you use it regularly? Stock and stockish rotors are relatively inexpensive—my rule of thumb is: replace the pads, replace the rotors. YMMV.


I don't think it's the e brake causing it. I use it regularly, yeah. It'll make the noise when I pull the ebrake just the same as when I use the foot brake. 

What's the OEM maker of rotors? I don't want to get ****ty chinese "oem replacements" or anything like that.


----------



## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

BeeAlk said:


> What's the OEM maker of rotors? I don't want to get ****ty chinese "oem replacements" or anything like that.


Lots of choices at ECS Tuning. For the small price increase versus OEM, I'll be get something drilled, slotted, and coated. Here's what I have in my shopping cart for when I need new brakes, which, should be this Spring...


----------



## dman4486 (Jun 22, 2011)

56k miles: P2015 intake flaps. First instance Monday so I reset to see if it would happen again. Indeed it did so I went to my local dealership who informed me of a warranty extension to 10 years and 120k miles for full intake replacement.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

^^^ Do you know the quality of those rotors? They look cool but I'm skeptical about how quality they actually are. Last thing I want is cheap brake components. They don't mention who makes the rotor blanks that they then drill and coat with that geomet stuff..

Also, in my experience, the drilled and slotted rotors make a lot of noise and after a lot of miles the grooves and holes get plugged up with crud. Not what I want for my DD.


----------



## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

BeeAlk said:


> Also, in my experience, the drilled and slotted rotors make a lot of noise and after a lot of miles the grooves and holes get plugged up with crud. Not what I want for my DD.


thank you for saying this. So true. extra cost + worse braking friction surface. 

but they look great as you pull up to the valet when you are getting you hair done.:laugh:


----------



## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

BeeAlk said:


> This right here is nightmare material. Good luck.


 x2
I would hafta be taken away by the men in white coats if this happened to me.


----------



## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

I got all 4 OEM rotors for $220 employee price at the dealer. It pays to have friends at a dealer!


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

louiekaps said:


> I got all 4 OEM rotors for $220 employee price at the dealer. It pays to have friends at a dealer!


Well aren't you lucky. I wonder what my dealer would charge me. I'm guessing somewhere around double that.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

group buy + employee price


----------



## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

I got this set










http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-A3-FWD-2.0T/Braking/Service_Kits/ES2594011/

Waxed my wheels, so a quick spray off/micro cloth works just fine :thumbup:

No noise complaints so far either.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

BeeAlk said:


> Well aren't you lucky. I wonder what my dealer would charge me. I'm guessing somewhere around double that.


Did you check GenuineAudiParts.com? Or look into Adam's Rotors?


----------



## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

BeeAlk said:


> Also, in my experience, the drilled and slotted rotors make a lot of noise and after a lot of miles the grooves and holes get plugged up with crud. Not what I want for my DD.





SilverSquirrel said:


> thank you for saying this. So true. extra cost + worse braking friction surface.


Good to know. I'll put the Kool-Aid down now.


----------



## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

BeeAlk said:


> Well aren't you lucky. I wonder what my dealer would charge me. I'm guessing somewhere around double that.


I'd look at Centric power alloy/high carbon discs. You can find them on rockauto for usually some of the cheapest prices. It's the same formulation that they use in Stoptech rotors but without the slots / holes.

Dave


----------



## shaner3721 (Jul 6, 2011)

Just got P0456 last night. Apparently means very small leak in the EVAP system. I'm hoping it was just the gas cap, so I swapped that out last night and we'll see what happens. Anyone else have experience with it and have it be something other than the gas cap or purge valve? Gonna do a vision inspection tomorrow as best I can without taking stuff apart and see if anything is obviously loose/disconnected.


----------



## vwlippy (Jul 17, 2001)

JRutter said:


> BeeAlk - might want to check the inner pads as well - they wear faster for me.


Inner pad wear could be a worn caliper piston seal not allowing the piston to return to position. One of the caliper guide pins / bushings seized.
Or the pads could have seized in slides.

http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/brake-pad-wear-chart/


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

crew219 said:


> I'd look at Centric power alloy/high carbon discs. You can find them on rockauto for usually some of the cheapest prices. It's the same formulation that they use in Stoptech rotors but without the slots / holes.
> 
> Dave


Interesting. In your opinion, these rotors meet or exceed OEM quality rotors? What pads mate well with high carbon alloys? 



vwlippy said:


> Inner pad wear could be a worn caliper piston seal not allowing the piston to return to position. One of the caliper guide pins / bushings seized.
> Or the pads could have seized in slides.
> 
> http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/brake-pad-wear-chart/


I am suspecting sticky caliper pins or all the salt caused some rust making the pads get stuck in their grooves on the calipers.. just odd that it would occur at the same time on both sides.


----------



## vwlippy (Jul 17, 2001)

BeeAlk said:


> I am suspecting sticky caliper pins or all the salt caused some rust making the pads get stuck in their grooves on the calipers.. just odd that it would occur at the same time on both sides.


It could be a problem at the Master Cylinder then.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

vwlippy said:


> It could be a problem at the Master Cylinder then.


... 'splain dat pls


----------



## kharma (Jan 2, 2004)

Just replaced my drivers door window regulator with an eBay special. Seemed straightforward much like any one I've done, but got the door back together and it's really struggling to go up and down... but does. Motor sounds fine when not on the regulator. Any chance I overlooked something, or did I likely get what I paid for? :banghead:


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

I had a chance to look at my brakes today. Well, I actually only had enough time to pull the rear passenger apart to inspect. 

Pads were worn evenly on both sides. Slide pins move nice and smooth. No stones or anything jammed anywhere that I saw. Pad clips were pretty dirty with a good bit of a grit built up on them. I cleaned everything, used liberal amounts of grease everywhere it was needed, and started reinstalled when I noticed something funny. One of the pad's backing plates was 90% separated from the pad itself with a nice layer of bubbly rust in between. Hmmm. I sammiched the two back together with caliper grease, bolted everything back up and would you believe it - the horrible noise is gone! Well, the noise is gone on that side at least.

All in all looks like I'll just replace the pads even though they've got lost of life left in them otherwise. 

I didn't get to measure the rotor thickness, but it looks like they're about .75mm worn on each face. Anyone know what the lower limit is on the rear rotors? Wondering if I need to replace them too.




kharma said:


> Just replaced my drivers door window regulator with an eBay special. Seemed straightforward much like any one I've done, but got the door back together and it's really struggling to go up and down... but does. Motor sounds fine when not on the regulator. Any chance I overlooked something, or did I likely get what I paid for? :banghead:


Did you grease the rails? It's also possible it's not installed squarely. It took 2 tries for me, worked after ensuring it was square and greasing the rails.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

since the rear brakes were serviced with new metallic pads, theres a loud grinding sound when driving steady at low speeds like 40-50mph.

I thought the noise would gonna go after a few miles on the new pads, but is still there.

Could this be related to not use grease on the back of the pads? now I got new ceramic pads but I haven't installed them yet, the rears come with grease. help


----------



## kharma (Jan 2, 2004)

BeeAlk said:


> Did you grease the rails? It's also possible it's not installed squarely. It took 2 tries for me, worked after ensuring it was square and greasing the rails.


I did not... this seems a bit severe for just lubing the rails but I'll give it a shot. Maybe the tabs aren't aligned well, time to tear the damn thing apart again.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

I ended up buying the Centric rotors Crew suggested. Hopefully they hold up well. I paired them with a set of Textar semi-metallic pads. They're high dust but the bite of them is very nice.. worth the constant wheel cleaning. I'll get to the front brakes when the time comes.



kharma said:


> I did not... this seems a bit severe for just lubing the rails but I'll give it a shot. Maybe the tabs aren't aligned well, time to tear the damn thing apart again.


My window was struggling so bad I was worried I was either going to burn the motor or pop a fuse when I tried to roll it up. After greasing it was butter smooth.


----------



## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

BeeAlk said:


> I ended up buying the Centric rotors Crew suggested. Hopefully they hold up well. I paired them with a set of Textar semi-metallic pads. They're high dust but the bite of them is very nice.. worth the constant wheel cleaning. I'll get to the front brakes when the time comes.


I have the centric stoptech rotors and the only difference, AFAIK, is that they're slotted. Great rotors, you're going to like them. If you're replacing all 4 wheels, make sure you go through the break-in procedure; my pedal felt super spongy until I did, all of the sudden everything firmed up.

Edit: Just re-read and realized you're only doing rears.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

npace said:


> I have the centric stoptech rotors and the only difference, AFAIK, is that they're slotted. Great rotors, you're going to like them. If you're replacing all 4 wheels, make sure you go through the break-in procedure; my pedal felt super spongy until I did, all of the sudden everything firmed up.
> 
> Edit: Just re-read and realized you're only doing rears.


Good to hear that I'll be happy with the rotors. 

I might be replacing the fronts as well, I just haven't had the chance to inspect them yet. 

Even if I just replace the rears, I should still do a break-in right?


----------



## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

BeeAlk said:


> Good to hear that I'll be happy with the rotors.
> 
> I might be replacing the fronts as well, I just haven't had the chance to inspect them yet.
> 
> Even if I just replace the rears, I should still do a break-in right?


I would, but you probably won't have the super sponge feel right off the bat.


----------



## mypixeladdiction (Dec 1, 2011)

One of the rear passenger turn signal lights went out


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

mypixeladdiction said:


> One of the rear passenger turn signal lights went out


Aww... Need a hug?

(>^_^)> <(^_^<)


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

mypixeladdiction said:


> One of the rear passenger turn signal lights went out


Might as well set the car on fire and claim insurance at this point.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

^^ I would go with this


----------



## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

mypixeladdiction said:


> One of the rear passenger turn signal lights went out


Parting out?


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Where's TP when you need him?


----------



## S-LineVinny (Dec 2, 2014)

Doing fifth gear pulls, I'm noticing moments of major hesitation. The car jerks as if a misfire but no cel or codes? It's a stage 2+ APR (fsi) and my guess is maybe the hpfp that came with the car wasn't an APR rebuild and I'm getting fuel cuts:banghead: even though the APR tech I brought my car to said it was on a 2+ file:screwy:. Bought the car from a dealership who knew nothing about it and I can't seem to track down the previous owner. It usually happens at speeds of 180 km/h+ or under full boost hold, ideas? When it happens, the car stops accelerating and I get a little freaked out and stop pulling


----------



## mypixeladdiction (Dec 1, 2011)

MisterJJ said:


> Aww... Need a hug?
> 
> (>^_^)> <(^_^<)





BeeAlk said:


> Might as well set the car on fire and claim insurance at this point.





krazyboi said:


> ^^ I would go with this





lausch said:


> Parting out?



:laugh: :thumbup:


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

lol


----------



## VW KEVIN G (Oct 26, 2000)

lausch said:


> Parting out?


If you part it out I need a rear passenger turn signal bulb.


----------



## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

S-LineVinny said:


> Doing fifth gear pulls, I'm noticing moments of major hesitation. The car jerks as if a misfire but no cel or codes? It's a stage 2+ APR (fsi) and my guess is maybe the hpfp that came with the car wasn't an APR rebuild and I'm getting fuel cuts:banghead: even though the APR tech I brought my car to said it was on a 2+ file:screwy:. Bought the car from a dealership who knew nothing about it and I can't seem to track down the previous owner. It usually happens at speeds of 180 km/h+ or under full boost hold, ideas? When it happens, the car stops accelerating and I get a little freaked out and stop pulling


What RPM? Also, manual or dsg?


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

S-LineVinny said:


> Doing fifth gear pulls, I'm noticing moments of major hesitation.


Done the carbon cleaning?


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

I read that the stock HPFP on FSI engines can's handle a stage 2+ tune. More likely a Stage 2 alone.


----------



## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

S-LineVinny said:


> Doing fifth gear pulls, I'm noticing moments of major hesitation. The car jerks as if a misfire but no cel or codes? It's a stage 2+ APR (fsi) and my guess is maybe the hpfp that came with the car wasn't an APR rebuild and I'm getting fuel cuts:banghead: even though the APR tech I brought my car to said it was on a 2+ file:screwy:. Bought the car from a dealership who knew nothing about it and I can't seem to track down the previous owner. It usually happens at speeds of 180 km/h+ or under full boost hold, ideas? When it happens, the car stops accelerating and I get a little freaked out and stop pulling


APR refers to their stage 2 file as "2+" 

There's an additional drop-down menu selection for the upgraded HPFP.

If you get a copy of your burn report, it'll state whether or not you have the correct file. 

Dave


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## S-LineVinny (Dec 2, 2014)

Hey guys just to clear up, the car IS forsure on a 2+ tune, the tech reset everything for me (file order and passcode) about a month after getting the car. What was in question was if the fuel pump is ACTUALLY the APR upgraded one. It is missing the sticker, which in an email from APR support, I was told was the only telling visual sign. I don't know how to tell if it has rebuilt internals but will be looking into that soon. 

To answer the two questions, it happens around 3800-4500 rpm and the car is dsg equipped. This problem happens in every like 1/3 pulls at that speed (which is quite rare because I don't exactly go that fast very often, *especially* now with snow tires)


----------



## S-LineVinny (Dec 2, 2014)

Also, no carbon cleaning has been done.. on the list of projects for warmer weather.

Thank you guys for your input!


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

today with my friend we rotated tires and swapped conical wheel bolts from ecs.

everything was fine until...

rear tire had a nail on it, it was there since couple months ago with no tire pressure loss.
But my friend mechanic told me to go fix that just because to be safe.
So... took the wheel to a shop and moron guy repaired and later i realized it was loosing air. I went to another more reputable shop to find that the guy screwed the tire with the grinder they use to peel a bit the inside side of the puncture. 
Dang.. had to buy a new tire... now Iam running a different tire on the rear left.
I didnt want to go to start a complain because I had to do soesome stuff.. but maybe tomorrow I will go there to ask for a refund on the tire.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> today with my friend we rotated tires and swapped conical wheel bolts from ecs.
> 
> everything was fine until...
> 
> ...


Pretty typical to rough up the puncture before plugging it. That way the plug can seal well. How did they screw it up?


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> Pretty typical to rough up the puncture before plugging it. That way the plug can seal well. How did they screw it up?


well, after the seal was placed, tire mounted on its wheel, (I
was carrying the wheel/tire in another car)
I took the tire back to were my car was, and realized there :banghead: that the seal was leaking air.
So after taking the tire apart, the seal was there but it was way too deep grinded, I mean the rough was so deep that the wires could be seen, maybe it was ok?
and it was a scam for selling me a tire?

I will take a pic of the patch so you can see and give me an advise if tire is ok for a second new seal ok. :thumbup:


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> well, after the seal was placed, tire mounted on its wheel, (I
> was carrying the wheel/tire in another car)
> I took the tire back to were my car was, and realized there :banghead: that the seal was leaking air.
> So after taking the tire apart, the seal was there but it was way too deep grinded, I mean the rough was so deep that the wires could be seen, maybe it was ok?
> ...



don't get too upset about it. maybe its just me but I never plug a tire. I just buy 2 new ones. I never know if the job is done well and don't have time to waste figuring it out on the side of the road


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

Tcardio said:


> don't get too upset about it. maybe its just me but I never plug a tire. I just buy 2 new ones. I never know if the job is done well and don't have time to waste figuring it out on the side of the road


lol yeha man. tires are so safety wise important. I will just get a pair of good tires soon.


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## Bezerker (Nov 12, 2013)

Have a leaky fuel injector that is causing cold-start misfires in cylinder 3. The dealer originally quoted me $1100 to replace the fuel injector and clean the valves before I reminded them I still had warranty left.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Bezerker said:


> Have a leaky fuel injector that is causing cold-start misfires in cylinder 3. The dealer originally quoted me $1100 to replace the fuel injector and clean the valves before I reminded them I still had warranty left.


So wonderful they jump to quote you a price without even checking first if you have warranty


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## Bezerker (Nov 12, 2013)

krazyboi said:


> So wonderful they jump to quote you a price without even checking first if you have warranty


They should have known as I had it at their shop last year for a separate warranty repair. I had to remind them that time as well


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## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

Bezerker said:


> They should have known as I had it at their shop last year for a separate warranty repair. I had to remind them that time as well


I'd be interested to know how many times they fake out a warranty-eligible owner. :banghead:


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## rainierfuller (Jan 11, 2010)

I'm so excited about this thread! I need a new driver's side axle something fierce.:banghead:


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

I was up to install the downpipe, but had to abort.

Found this:


















here's the downed tire


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


>


Deep sea exploration?


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

MisterJJ said:


> Deep sea exploration?










yeah thought the same thing !

that belongs to the sea deep


----------



## dman4486 (Jun 22, 2011)

Took mine in for Intake replacement under warranty this morning. Dealership broke the coolant temp sensor plug so i am now driving a Mazda 6 :facepalm: until they can order in the replacement. **** happens I guess.


----------



## wishntoboutside (Mar 11, 2002)

*i think someone should start a thread of "how did you enjoy your A3 today?" Let's be a little more positive guys-).*


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

wishntoboutside said:


> *i think someone should start a thread of "how did you enjoy your A3 today?" Let's be a little more positive guys-).*


From the very beginning, OP's first sentence:



> Not meant as a bitter "I hate my car" thread at all, quite the opposite. Just looking to see what's common, what's not, how you've fixed it, where you got parts, etc...


This isn't a negative thread. opcorn:


----------



## dman4486 (Jun 22, 2011)

dman4486 said:


> Took mine in for Intake replacement under warranty this morning. Dealership broke the coolant temp sensor plug so i am now driving a Mazda 6 :facepalm: until they can order in the replacement. **** happens I guess.


Well they got my car back together already.... Ended up with a new intake, coolant temp sensor plug, and a valve cleaning all under the Intake extended warranty.


----------



## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

wishntoboutside said:


> *i think someone should start a thread of "how did you enjoy your A3 today?" Let's be a little more positive guys-).*


obsequious remark! If you want to start it...do it


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> I was up to install the downpipe, but had to abort.
> 
> Found this:


guys, should I replace that sleeve clamp with:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-A3-FWD-2.0T/ES315747/

or

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-A3-FWD-2.0T/ES2015539/

or

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2807623/

1st and 2nd are the OEM and alternative.
3rd is alternative a little bit longer.


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> guys, should I replace that sleeve clamp with:


Maybe something more like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-X-2-00-THRUSH-STAINLESS-STEEL-EXHAUST-T-BOLT-CLAMPS-SET-2-/221453254116?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item338fa47de4

or this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-33230

or this:
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/Shop-by-Category/Exhaust-Clamps/AccuSeal-Exhaust-Clamps

Don't know about size though.

Hmm... All those happen to be stainless steel. Coincidence, I suppose.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

MisterJJ said:


> Maybe something more like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-X-2-00-THRUSH-STAINLESS-STEEL-EXHAUST-T-BOLT-CLAMPS-SET-2-/221453254116?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item338fa47de4
> 
> or this:
> http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-33230
> ...


thx Mr. !


----------



## kharma (Jan 2, 2004)

Dropped mine off Tues... it will take a new transmission. Extended warranty and 2015 Q5 FTMFW!


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Still having issues with my car/battery. Looks like it wasn't my Dension Gateway 100 that was the culprit. With everything together, if I lock my car, the car takes about a minute to 'shutdown'. After 7-10 minutes, it kicks on and power runs through the car. It will then 'shutdown', but power up again after 7-10 minutes. Just keeps doing this cycle. :banghead:

Tried the following:
1) Pulled Fuse 19 under the hood (Navigation/Radio); same error. Disconnected the RNS-E from the harness; same error.
2) When pulling Fuse 19, after a while, I can hear a clicking coming from the trunk area. If I remove Fuse 3 (Comfort System Central Control Module) under the hood, the clicking goes away; but same error.

When disconnecting the RNS-E, the hazard button blinked and it sounded like the heating unit goes off. 

Does anyone know what would "boot" our car up? While sitting in the car with it armed, I opened the glove box and it powered the car up as well.

I've tried pulling every single fuse in the side panel and the top panel under the hood. Perhaps I need to disconnect the fuses in the front of the box under the hood.


----------



## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

Throwing darts here Johnny ... you have a tune, yes? Have you tried switching back to the stock program?


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Hmm, if only I knew how to do that with UM. Lemme try to look it up.

Or, maybe I'll just get a new battery and see what happens?!?  Just sucks that Advance Auto won't replace it under warranty because their tester shows its fine.

Using my CTEK, I get the following: 


> If the indicator for *charge and maintenance charge are flashing alternately*, this may have the following causes:
> • Interruption of the charging process because a cable has become loose or because the battery is not conducting.
> • The battery is sulphated. If the indicator flashes for more than 30 minutes the battery may be defective and should be replaced.
> • If the flashing signal is flashing at intervals of more than 10 seconds, then there is a high self discharge of the battery, indicating a bad battery.


----------



## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

Remind us, did AA test in the car or on the counter?


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

lausch said:


> Remind us, did AA test in the car or on the counter?


Tested on the counter. Thinking I need to bring my car there and let them test in the car as well as the alternator.


----------



## AUDI EH3 (Jul 1, 2009)

krazyboi said:


> Still having issues with my car/battery. Looks like it wasn't my Dension Gateway 100 that was the culprit. With everything together, if I lock my car, the car takes about a minute to 'shutdown'. After 7-10 minutes, it kicks on and power runs through the car. It will then 'shutdown', but power up again after 7-10 minutes. Just keeps doing this cycle. :banghead:
> 
> Tried the following:
> 1) Pulled Fuse 19 under the hood (Navigation/Radio); same error. Disconnected the RNS-E from the harness; same error.
> ...


What do you mean by "boot up"? 

Have you logged you gateway module (measure blocks 125-135) for activity? After turning your car off


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

AUDI EH3 said:


> What do you mean by "boot up"?
> 
> Have you logged you gateway module (measure blocks 125-135) for activity? After turning your car off


Anytime I unlock the car and get in, the car "boots up" as in I can hear the radio's white noise in the speakers, the RNS-E goes from blank (no pixels) to full black pixels.

With my current issue, I can see/hear my RNS-E/audio doing this at 7-10 minute intervals.

No, I haven't tried logging the gateway module. When you say turning the car off while logging, just cut the engine, but not the power right?


----------



## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

krazyboi said:


> Anytime I unlock the car and get in, the car "boots up" as in I can hear the radio's white noise in the speakers, the RNS-E goes from blank (no pixels) to full black pixels.
> 
> With my current issue, I can see/hear my RNS-E/audio doing this at 7-10 minute intervals.
> 
> No, I haven't tried logging the gateway module. When you say turning the car off while logging, just cut the engine, but not the power right?


I could be way off, but it sounds to me like it could be a faulty ignition switch, especially with the cycling on and off. Maybe check that?


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

npace said:


> I could be way off, but it sounds to me like it could be a faulty ignition switch, especially with the cycling on and off. Maybe check that?


How would I check that?

I just checked my alternator by checking voltage at the battery with the car idle, it was 13.88-13.90 so that probably means my alternator is fine right?

Still 99% sure my battery is bad, however, wondering what makes my car's electronics wake up on its own.


----------



## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

krazyboi said:


> How would I check that?
> 
> I just checked my alternator by checking voltage at the battery with the car idle, it was 13.88-13.90 so that probably means my alternator is fine right?
> 
> Still 99% sure my battery is bad, however, wondering what makes my car's electronics wake up on its own.


http://www.clarks-garage.com/pdf-manual/elect-17.pdf

My thought is if there's a wiring issue, it may think its being turned to the "on" position. This tells how to troubleshoot the switch itself, as well as the wiring. It's the only thing I can think of that would make the car think that it's "on" when it isn't.


----------



## AUDI EH3 (Jul 1, 2009)

krazyboi said:


> Anytime I unlock the car and get in, the car "boots up" as in I can hear the radio's white noise in the speakers, the RNS-E goes from blank (no pixels) to full black pixels.
> 
> With my current issue, I can see/hear my RNS-E/audio doing this at 7-10 minute intervals.
> 
> No, I haven't tried logging the gateway module. When you say turning the car off while logging, just cut the engine, but not the power right?


You can actually connect to the gateway module with the key off. What's interesting is the can-bus system can be to blame for a lot of battery drain issues, traditionally for your year it's a broken wire in your door that makes everything wake up again.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

npace said:


> http://www.clarks-garage.com/pdf-manual/elect-17.pdf
> 
> My thought is if there's a wiring issue, it may think its being turned to the "on" position. This tells how to troubleshoot the switch itself, as well as the wiring. It's the only thing I can think of that would make the car think that it's "on" when it isn't.


Thanks, I'll give it a shot. Wish you were moved to the area already so you could assist 



AUDI EH3 said:


> You can actually connect to the gateway module with the key off. What's interesting is the can-bus system can be to blame for a lot of battery drain issues, traditionally for your year it's a broken wire in your door that makes everything wake up again.


I do kind of feel like it's some door module as well b/c its similar symptoms.

Here's my latest vag-com malfunctions if it shows anything I'm not noticing. I know the electrical light faults are b/c of LEDs.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Address 01: Engine Labels: 022-906-032-BDB.lbl
Part No SW: 022 906 032 KS HW: 000 000 000 00
Component: United R32 RAI G 408K 
Revision: --H01--- Serial number: AUX7Z0F0FN60ND
Coding: 0000178
Shop #: WSC 66565 257 00032
VCID: 66C8AC3C51076A11F4C-8033

1 Fault Found:
012313 - Valve for Exhaust Flap 1 (N321) 
P3019 - 004 - Open Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 155359 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.01.03
Time: 14:18:31

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 912 /min
Load: 49.4 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 8.0*C
Temperature: 11.0*C
Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar
Voltage: 11.049 V

Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8P0-820-043.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 820 043 Q HW: 8P0 820 043 Q
Component: KlimavollautomatH18 0260 
Revision: 025899 Serial number: 8P0820043Q 
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 3A70284C753F3EF1604-806F

2 Faults Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+ 
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 1
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 200
Mileage: 155072 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.12.22
Time: 16:31:33

Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 8.60 V

00796 - Fan for Interior Temp Sensor (V42) 
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101011
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 220
Mileage: 155682 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.01.27
Time: 05:35:01

Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 13.50 V
Temperature: 18.5*C

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 8P0-907-279-23-H.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 907 279 F HW: 8P0 907 279 F
Component: Bordnetz-SG H43 1201 
Revision: 00H43000 Serial number: 00000005403497
Coding: F58C9F81901410000000000024000000000800105A1600
Shop #: WSC 06314 123 08192
VCID: 40845AA413E364212E0-8015

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 8P1 955 119 B Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB
Component: Wischer AU350 H01 0130 
Coding: 00062736
Shop #: WSC 06314 

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 4E0 910 557 Labels: 8K0-955-559.CLB
Component: REGENLICHTSENSORH11 0050 
Coding: 00150573
Shop #: WSC 06314 

2 Faults Found:
00061 - Footwell Lights 
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101100
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 216
Mileage: 155679 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.01.24
Time: 20:36:00

Freeze Frame:
ON
Voltage: 11.05 V
ON
ON
OFF
OFF
OFF

01504 - Bulb for License-Plate Light (X) 
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101100
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 8
Reset counter: 194
Mileage: 155674 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.01.23
Time: 05:34:00

Freeze Frame:
ON
Voltage: 11.35 V
ON
ON
OFF
OFF
OFF

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 0F: Digital Radio Labels: 8E0-035-593-SIR.lbl
Part No SW: 8E0 035 593 D HW: 8E0 035 593 D
Component: SDAR SIRIUS H03 0060 
Revision: 00000000 Serial number: AUZ4Z7E2020315
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 2A50180C859F8E71104-807F

1 Fault Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+ 
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 224
Mileage: 155862 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 7.10 V

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8P0-920-xxx-17-MY7.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 920 981 E HW: 8P0 920 981 E
Component: KOMBIINSTR. VDO H80 0420 
Revision: D06 Serial number: 2240FD06007739
Coding: 0033203
Shop #: WSC 09401 444 91641
VCID: 3A70284C753F3EF1604-806F

1 Fault Found:
16346 - Control Module - ROM Error 
014 - Defective
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000011
Fault Priority: 1
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 110021 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2010.04.17
Time: 07:40:39

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 1K0-907-530-V2.clb
Part No SW: 1K0 907 530 G HW: 1K0 907 951 
Component: J533__Gateway H10 0140 
Revision: H10 Serial number: 3000106112859A
Coding: FF3F03EA07000100
Shop #: WSC 09401 444 84380
VCID: 2B5E1D088A659779EB2-807E

1 Fault Found:
00463 - Control Module for Digital Sound Package (J525) 
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 254
Reset counter: 194
Mileage: 155441 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.01.18
Time: 22:36:33

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 37: Navigation Labels: 8E0-035-192-RNSE.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 035 192 HW: 8P0 035 192 
Component: RNS-E US H46 0260 
Revision: 03S Serial number: AUZBZ7S0003500
Coding: 0225213
Shop #: WSC 06435 000 00000
VCID: 6CDCDE144FEB5041A28-8039

3 Faults Found:
00857 - CD Changer Unit (R41) 
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 172
Mileage: 155441 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.01.18
Time: 22:37:28

16352 - Control Module - Electrical Error 
014 - Defective
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101110
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 225
Mileage: 112528 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.12.16
Time: 17:59:39

01044 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded 
000 - - 
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 172
Mileage: 155441 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.01.18
Time: 22:36:39

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 42: Door Elect, Driver Labels: 8P0-959-801-MIN2.lbl
Part No: 8P0 959 801 H
Component: Tuer-SG 020 0090 
Coding: 0001275
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 40845AA413E364212E0-8015

1 Fault Found:
00120 - Outside Warning Light/Door exit Light Driver Side 
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 8P0-959-433.lbl
Part No: 8P0 959 433 D
Component: 02 KSG H04 0050 
Coding: 9BC003403F3F850FC80F047300
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 3D7A2350641109C9456-8068

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1K0 951 605 C
Component: LIN BACKUP HORN H03 1301

Subsystem 2 - Component: NGS n.mounted 

Subsystem 3 - Component: IRUE n.mounted 

1 Fault Found:
01565 - Luggage Compartment Light (W3) 
007 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 47: Sound System
Cannot be reached

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 52: Door Elect, Pass. Labels: 8P0-959-802-MIN2.lbl
Part No: 8P0 959 802 H
Component: Tuer-SG 020 0090 
Coding: 0001275
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 41825FA018E96D2921E-8014

1 Fault Found:
00121 - Outside Warning Light/Door exit Light Passenger Side 
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 55: Headlight Range Labels: 4F0-910-357.lbl
Part No SW: 4F0 910 357 E HW: 4F0 907 357 E
Component: AFS 1 H01 0010 
Revision: 00000001 Serial number: 
Coding: 0000020
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 2854E2049B93BC61060-807D

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 8E0 941 329 A
Component: AFS-Modul links H03 0010

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 8E0 941 329 A
Component: AFS-Modul rechtsH03 0010

1 Fault Found:
00446 - Function Limitation due to Under-Voltage 
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 233
Mileage: 156008 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.02.10
Time: 05:35:40

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio Labels: 8E0-035-192-RNSE.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 035 192 HW: 8P0 035 192 
Component: RNS-E US H46 0260 
Revision: 03S Serial number: AUZBZ7S0003500
Coding: 0225213
Shop #: WSC 06435 000 00000
VCID: 6CDCDE144FEB5041A28-8039

3 Faults Found:
00857 - CD Changer Unit (R41) 
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 172
Mileage: 155441 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.01.18
Time: 22:37:28

16352 - Control Module - Electrical Error 
014 - Defective
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101110
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 225
Mileage: 112528 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.12.16
Time: 17:59:39

01044 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded 
000 - - 
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 172
Mileage: 155441 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.01.18
Time: 22:36:39


----------



## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

krazyboi said:


> Thanks, I'll give it a shot. Wish you were moved to the area already so you could assist


I would, too. I should be there sometime around July/August. Still no orders yet. I'l shoot you a PM, as I have some questions about passing emissions.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

npace said:


> I would, too. I should be there sometime around July/August. Still no orders yet. I'l shoot you a PM, as I have some questions about passing emissions.


You don't want his advice on passing emissions! :laugh:


----------



## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

BeeAlk said:


> You don't want his advice on passing emissions!


lulz.


----------



## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

My questions aren't really related to how... I can probably figure that out. I just need to know how the test goes, what's involved, and all that so I can make sure I do pass. If it's just OBD-II and visual, I should be good to go.


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Damn, krazyboi, reset your codes once in a while.

Anyway, I would suspect the instrument cluster:



krazyboi said:


> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8P0-920-xxx-17-MY7.lbl
> Part No SW: 8P0 920 981 E HW: 8P0 920 981 E
> Component: KOMBIINSTR. VDO H80 0420
> ...


Mostly because of the Reset counter. I assume it's using an 8-bit number for this so this error happens every time.


----------



## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

npace said:


> My questions aren't really related to how... I can probably figure that out. I just need to know how the test goes, what's involved, and all that so I can make sure I do pass. If it's just OBD-II and visual, I should be good to go.


Maryland is OBD-II. I have never had a visual on any of our cars—even our STX Miata—in the 18 years we have been in Maryland. But, I do not drive a car that looks or sounds [or apparently smells to Johnny's own admission) like krazyboi's.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

BeeAlk said:


> You don't want his advice on passing emissions! :laugh:





lausch said:


> Maryland is OBD-II. I have never had a visual on any of our cars—even our STX Miata—in the 18 years we have been in Maryland. But, I do not drive a car that looks or sounds [or apparently smells to Johnny's own admission) like krazyboi's.


From what I see, I guess smell shouldn't matter: http://www.deq.virginia.gov/Program...icleOwners/VehicleEmissionsInspectionFAQ.aspx

Parts of the inspection is: 


Air Injection System 
Exhaust Gas Recirculation System 
Positive Crankcase Ventilation System 
Catalytic Converter 
Fuel Evaporative System 
Thermostatic Air Cleaner System 
 


MisterJJ said:


> Damn, krazyboi, reset your codes once in a while.
> 
> Anyway, I would suspect the instrument cluster:
> 
> Mostly because of the Reset counter. I assume it's using an 8-bit number for this so this error happens every time.


That's interesting. So, if I can disconnect the instrument cluster, I shouldn't have this occur right?


----------



## AUDI EH3 (Jul 1, 2009)

krazyboi said:


> Thanks, I'll give it a shot. Wish you were moved to the area already so you could assist
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You got some stuff going on there, 

Can you add measure blocks for the module 19 - gateway. For groups 125-128, 130-133, 140-142. Do it for idling and then maybe 10min after to see what awake.


----------



## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

krazyboi said:


> From what I see, I guess smell shouldn't matter: http://www.deq.virginia.gov/Program...icleOwners/VehicleEmissionsInspectionFAQ.aspx
> 
> Parts of the inspection is:
> 
> ...


Okay, thanks. Umm..... I thought cars didn't have EGR anymore because it doesn't do anything. So what you listed here is for visual, right? I'm definitely going to live in VA, not MD. But based on the above, it looks like as long as I pass OBD-II, have a stock PCV in place, have a stock evap purge valve, and don't have an O2 spacer (or they don't see one) I'm good to go. Am I reading that right?


----------



## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

npace said:


> I'm definitely going to live in VA, not MD.


In that case, you should also familiarize yourself with VA's annual vehicle safety inspection program.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

AUDI EH3 said:


> You got some stuff going on there,
> 
> Can you add measure blocks for the module 19 - gateway. For groups 125-128, 130-133, 140-142. Do it for idling and then maybe 10min after to see what awake.


Here's what I got. First one is car running idle, second is after I shut the car off, removed key, opened/closed door and locked car. It then awoke after 9 minutes. I immediately did the readings while I heard the system on. Unfortunately, there was no difference when the car was locked vs. locked and awoken.  I was very hopeful this would show what was causing the problem, but no. Thanks for the idea...anything else to try?

*First reading: Full idle*

Tuesday,17,February,2015,14:38:00:24743
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 14.10.1.1
Data version: 20150130

Address 19: CAN Gateway (1K0 907 530 G)

14:37:54 Group 125: CAN-Databus Powertrain (Communication)
Engine 1 Engine Electronics (J623)
Transm. 1 Transmission Electronics
ABS 1 Brake Electronics (J104)
Instruments 1 Instrument Cluster (J285)

14:37:54 Group 126: CAN-Databus Powertrain (Communication)
Steer. ang. 1 Steering Angle Sensor (G85)
Airbag 1 Airbag System (J234)
Steering 1 Steering Aid (J500)
HdLtRange 1 Headlight Range (J431)

14:37:54 Group 127: CAN-Databus Powertrain (Communication)
AWD 1 All-Wheel-Drive Electronics (J492)
Damper Control (J250)
Immo 1 Immobilizer (J334/CAN-Display)
Tire Pressure Monit. 2 (J502)

14:38:11 Group 128: CAN-Databus Powertrain (Communication)
Engine Electronics II (J624)
Park Steering Assist (J791)
Parking Brake Electronics (J540)
N/A Lock Electronics 

14:38:11 Group 130: CAN-Databus Comfort (Communication)
2-Wire CAN-Comfort Status
Cent. Elect. 1 Central Electronics (J519)
Central 1 Comfort System (J393)
Dr. Door 1 Door Electronics Driver (J386)

14:38:11 Group 131: CAN-Databus Comfort (Communication)
Pas. Door 1 Door Electronics Passenger (J387)
RL Door 1 Door Electronics Rear Left (J388)
RR Door 1 Door Electronics Rear Right (J389)
Seat Memory Driver (J136)

14:38:22 Group 132: CAN-Databus Comfort (Communication)
Tire Pressure Monitoring (J502)
St. Wheel 1 Steering Wheel Electronics (J527)
HVAC 1 Heating/Air Condition (J255)
Parking Aid Electronics (J446)

14:38:22 Group 133: CAN-Databus Comfort (Communication)
Auxiliary Heater
Convertible Top (J256)
Trailer Electronics (J345)
Seat Memory Passenger (J521)

14:38:22 Group 140: CAN-Databus Infotainment (Communication)
2-Wire CAN-Infotainment Status
Dig.Soundp. 0 Digital Soundsystem (J525)
Telematics (J526)
Navigation 1 Navigation System (J506)

14:38:39 Group 141: CAN-Databus Infotainment (Communication)
TV-Tuner (J415)
DigitRadio 1 Radio (digital) (R146)
Radio 1 Radio (analog) (R)
Telephone 1 Telephone Electronics (R36)

14:38:39 Group 142: CAN-Databus Infotainment (Communication)
Auxiliary Heater (J364)
Position Sensing Compass (J603)
Telephone Operation (J738)
N/A Back-Up Camera (J772)

*Second reading: Car off - wakes up*

Tuesday,17,February,2015,15:05:45:24743
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 14.10.1.1
Data version: 20150130

Address 19: CAN Gateway (1K0 907 530 G)

15:05:42 Group 125: CAN-Databus Powertrain (Communication)
Engine 0 Engine Electronics (J623)
Transm. 0 Transmission Electronics
ABS 0 Brake Electronics (J104)
Instruments 0 Instrument Cluster (J285)

15:05:42 Group 126: CAN-Databus Powertrain (Communication)
Steer. ang. 0 Steering Angle Sensor (G85)
Airbag 0 Airbag System (J234)
Steering 0 Steering Aid (J500)
HdLtRange 0 Headlight Range (J431)

15:05:42 Group 127: CAN-Databus Powertrain (Communication)
AWD 0 All-Wheel-Drive Electronics (J492)
Damper Control (J250)
Immo 0 Immobilizer (J334/CAN-Display)
Tire Pressure Monit. 2 (J502)

15:05:54 Group 128: CAN-Databus Powertrain (Communication)
Engine Electronics II (J624)
Park Steering Assist (J791)
Parking Brake Electronics (J540)
N/A Lock Electronics 

15:05:54 Group 130: CAN-Databus Comfort (Communication)
2-Wire CAN-Comfort Status
Cent. Elect. 0 Central Electronics (J519)
Central 0 Comfort System (J393)
Dr. Door 0 Door Electronics Driver (J386)

15:05:54 Group 131: CAN-Databus Comfort (Communication)
Pas. Door 0 Door Electronics Passenger (J387)
RL Door 0 Door Electronics Rear Left (J388)
RR Door 0 Door Electronics Rear Right (J389)
Seat Memory Driver (J136)

15:06:01 Group 132: CAN-Databus Comfort (Communication)
Tire Pressure Monitoring (J502)
St. Wheel 0 Steering Wheel Electronics (J527)
HVAC 0 Heating/Air Condition (J255)
Parking Aid Electronics (J446)

15:06:01 Group 133: CAN-Databus Comfort (Communication)
Auxiliary Heater
Convertible Top (J256)
Trailer Electronics (J345)
Seat Memory Passenger (J521)

15:06:01 Group 140: CAN-Databus Infotainment (Communication)
2-Wire CAN-Infotainment Status
Dig.Soundp. 0 Digital Soundsystem (J525)
Telematics (J526)
Navigation 0 Navigation System (J506)

15:06:07 Group 141: CAN-Databus Infotainment (Communication)
TV-Tuner (J415)
DigitRadio 0 Radio (digital) (R146)
Radio 0 Radio (analog) (R)
Telephone 0 Telephone Electronics (R36)

15:06:07 Group 142: CAN-Databus Infotainment (Communication)
Auxiliary Heater (J364)
Position Sensing Compass (J603)
Telephone Operation (J738)
N/A Back-Up Camera (J772)


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

npace said:


> Okay, thanks. Umm..... I thought cars didn't have EGR anymore because it doesn't do anything. So what you listed here is for visual, right? I'm definitely going to live in VA, not MD. But based on the above, it looks like as long as I pass OBD-II, have a stock PCV in place, have a stock evap purge valve, and don't have an O2 spacer (or they don't see one) I'm good to go. Am I reading that right?


From what I see, I don't think you'll have an issue passing. I've heard some locations will pass you easily with just OBD-II and no dark smoke coming out your exhaust. I guess it all depends where you go.



lausch said:


> In that case, you should also familiarize yourself with VA's annual vehicle safety inspection program.


This is correct, we have annual safety inspections. It's quite easy to pass really. I was able to pass recently myself, just had to pull my rear tail light Lamin-X. Pretty much make sure all bulbs work, tires and suspension are in good working condition, no major windshield cracks, no tint on rear lens. 

http://www.vsp.state.va.us/Safety.shtm#InspectionProgram


----------



## DutchcaribbeanGTI (Dec 7, 2000)

DutchcaribbeanGTI said:


> The engine mount was less than a year old. I have contacted Drive SPM for replacement inserts. Response from them was, replacement inserts are not available, we can sell you a new mount at a discounted price.
> 
> Anyone knows if the BSH or VF engeneering inserts fits the SPM hardware.


Big thumps up :thumbup: for Phillip at Drive SPM. He hooked me up with a new set of insert for free.

:beer:


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

DutchcaribbeanGTI said:


> Big thumps up :thumbup: for Phillip at Drive SPM. He hooked me up with a new set of insert for free.
> 
> :beer:


I've seen this once before with BFI mounts crumbling like that, but it was after like 50-60k miles. Less than 1 year is crazy. Glad to see they got it sorted for you.


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

wishntoboutside said:


> *i think someone should start a thread of "how did you enjoy your A3 today?" Let's be a little more positive guys-).*





BeeAlk said:


> From the very beginning, OP's first sentence:
> 
> 
> 
> This isn't a negative thread. opcorn:


Well still could do that thread too lol.


----------



## AUDI EH3 (Jul 1, 2009)

krazyboi said:


> Here's what I got. First one is car running idle, second is after I shut the car off, removed key, opened/closed door and locked car. It then awoke after 9 minutes. I immediately did the readings while I heard the system on. Unfortunately, there was no difference when the car was locked vs. locked and awoken.  I was very hopeful this would show what was causing the problem, but no. Thanks for the idea...anything else to try?
> 
> *First reading: Full idle*
> 
> ...


Hmmm looks like everything is properly communicating and sleeping except your J525 module. I wonder if that is somehow causing you these issues?


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

AUDI EH3 said:


> Hmmm looks like everything is properly communicating and sleeping except your J525 module. I wonder if that is somehow causing you these issues?


Yea, I just noticed that. What is that module? My head unit and all speakers work fine. Is that the amp?


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Every since replacing my rear brakes and hubs I get a weird sound when turning right. It doesn't seem to be associated with the speed of the car, but it's hard to tell. It's most prominent on long sweeping turns like jug handles or on/off ramps. It's like a low pitched, kind of scraping/grinding sound, pretty muffled. It almost sounds like when a tire is rubbing the fender liner. Or kind of like when you hear someone who's brake pads are worn to the metal and it gives that grinding sound - only not nearly as loud as that. 

naturally I would assume it has something to do with either the brake or hub install I did a week ago. but it sort of sounds like it's coming from the front/driver corner of car, though it's hard to tell. Not sure where to begin.. and it's so cold the last thing I was to do is pull my brakes apart again


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> Every since replacing my rear brakes and hubs I get a weird sound when turning right. It doesn't seem to be associated with the speed of the car, but it's hard to tell. It's most prominent on long sweeping turns like jug handles or on/off ramps. It's like a low pitched, kind of scraping/grinding sound, pretty muffled. It almost sounds like when a tire is rubbing the fender liner. Or kind of like when you hear someone who's brake pads are worn to the metal and it gives that grinding sound - only not nearly as loud as that.
> 
> naturally I would assume it has something to do with either the brake or hub install I did a week ago. but it sort of sounds like it's coming from the front/driver corner of car, though it's hard to tell. Not sure where to begin.. and it's so cold the last thing I was to do is pull my brakes apart again


take your time. I also have a sound after servicing rear brakes.

today I parked and mistakenly run over a half tire that was poping in the ground in front of the car. It crushed my intercooler driver side hose, also the small coolant hose, and the rad fans, rad and intercooler.
I cant understand that the only damage was the classic right side of the front bumper being loose.

my friend helped me with a big jack to lift car to clear the half moon tire. I thought it was a game over for my car. thanks god.

BeeAlk: today I received the spring for the hatch mod along with the strong strut. and a drivermotorsport driver programer. 
Thx man for the extra spring instead of spacer. Big thanks man. I will report how it turns out.


----------



## AUDI EH3 (Jul 1, 2009)

krazyboi said:


> Yea, I just noticed that. What is that module? My head unit and all speakers work fine. Is that the amp?


Ya I think it's the Bose amp, you did a rnse retro fit right? 

See if this thread is any help. 

 http://audiforum.us/threads/multiple-fault-codes-after-rns-e-retrofit-into-a3-8p.13183/


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

AUDI EH3 said:


> Ya I think it's the Bose amp, you did a rnse retro fit right?
> 
> See if this thread is any help.
> 
> [url]http://audiforum.us/threads/multiple-fault-codes-after-rns-e-retrofit-into-a3-8p.13183/ [/URL]


Wonder if someone can snap a pic of their Bose Amp wires and cigarette socket back there. I just looked and noticed the wires looked "tampered".

Edit: I saw that thread a bit ago. I actually traced the wiring between Symphony II to RNS-E. Everything was good.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> take your time. I also have a sound after servicing rear brakes.


I wish time was a thing I had. I've been working 60-70 hours a week (not hourly, either. I'd be rich if that was the case!) and also writing 30-40 hours a week. Time is hard to come by!


----------



## aznsap (Aug 7, 2010)

oil light came on, i've had to put in about a quart every 1,500 miles as of late. prior to last couple top ups i was only adding 1qt between 5k mile oil changes.

to add insult to injury, my hood wouldn't close all the way after i topped off my oil. it made it to the first click, but wouldn't fully close, literally took me 20 tries and messing w/ the latch to get it to close. may be because of the -10deg weather here in chicago, but i'm scared to open my hood again in fear that it won't close!


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

aznsap said:


> oil light came on, i've had to put in about a quart every 1,500 miles as of late. prior to last couple top ups i was only adding 1qt between 5k mile oil changes.
> 
> to add insult to injury, my hood wouldn't close all the way after i topped off my oil. it made it to the first click, but wouldn't fully close, literally took me 20 tries and messing w/ the latch to get it to close. may be because of the -10deg weather here in chicago, but i'm scared to open my hood again in fear that it won't close!


When your hood didn't latch, did you go pull on the release inside the car? That could help allow it to latch next time.


----------



## kharma (Jan 2, 2004)

kharma said:


> Dropped mine off Tues... it will take a new transmission. Extended warranty and 2015 Q5 FTMFW!


Back in action! But... no longer have gear display in DIS in D/S :banghead:


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

kharma said:


> Back in action! But... no longer have gear display in DIS in D/S :banghead:


They did the software update that removes it. I instructed the dealer not to do that update, which just disables a temperature sensor in the transmission, I believe.


----------



## AUDI EH3 (Jul 1, 2009)

kharma said:


> Back in action! But... no longer have gear display in DIS in D/S :banghead:


Woah woah woah, there is a update so you don't know what gear your in when driving in tip mode? That's messed up


----------



## kharma (Jan 2, 2004)

AUDI EH3 said:


> Woah woah woah, there is a update so you don't know what gear your in when driving in tip mode? That's messed up


I'm fuggin' annoyed!


----------



## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Newer cars with DSG come with the display not showing the gear unless you're in M mode. Mine didn't show gear in D or S until I got the HPA tune.


----------



## kharma (Jan 2, 2004)

Guess I'll have to get a tune


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

AUDI EH3 said:


> Hmmm looks like everything is properly communicating and sleeping except your J525 module. I wonder if that is somehow causing you these issues?


Well, I went into 19-CAN Gateway, Coding, Byte 3, Bit 1 and disabled Sound System. This got rid of the J525 error.

Also, my coding for both 37-Navigation and 56-Radio are both: 0205135

My full scan errors went down A LOT, however, I still get my system powering up after 9-10 minutes 

Here's a picture of the wiring harness at the BOSE Amp:


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

have you tried with the headunit unplugged?


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> have you tried with the headunit unplugged?


Yea, well, I actually had different results when the head unit was out. There was a constant low amp pull as well :banghead: 

Here's my current faults. A LOT has gone away :thumbup:, but the new one is the HVAC Control module :banghead::
~~~~~~~~~
Address 01: Engine Labels: 022-906-032-BDB.lbl
Part No SW: 022 906 032 KS HW: 000 000 000 00
 Component: United R32 RAI G 408K 
Revision: --H01--- Serial number: AUX7Z0F0FN60ND
Coding: 0000178
Shop #: WSC 66565 257 00032
VCID: 66C8AC3C51076A11F4C-8033

2 Faults Found:
012313 - Valve for Exhaust Flap 1 (N321) 
P3019 - 004 - Open Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 155359 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.01.03
Time: 14:18:31

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 912 /min
Load: 49.4 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 8.0*C
Temperature: 11.0*C
Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar
Voltage: 11.049 V

049508 - No Communications with HVAC Control Module (J301) 
U0164 - 008 - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 156022 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.02.14
Time: 00:00:30

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 5.0*C
Temperature: 7.0*C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 11.303 V

Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8P0-820-043.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 820 043 Q HW: 8P0 820 043 Q
Component: KlimavollautomatH18 0260 
Revision: 025899 Serial number: 8P0820043Q 
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 3A70284C753F3EF1604-806F

2 Faults Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+ 
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 1
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 200
Mileage: 155072 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.12.22
Time: 16:31:33

Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 8.60 V

00796 - Fan for Interior Temp Sensor (V42) 
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101011
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 220
Mileage: 155682 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.01.27
Time: 05:35:01

Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 13.50 V
Temperature: 18.5*C

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8P0-920-xxx-17-MY7.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 920 981 E HW: 8P0 920 981 E
Component: KOMBIINSTR. VDO H80 0420 
Revision: D06 Serial number: 2240FD06007739
Coding: 0033203
Shop #: WSC 09401 444 91641
VCID: 3A70284C753F3EF1604-806F

1 Fault Found:
16346 - Control Module - ROM Error 
014 - Defective
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000011
Fault Priority: 1
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 110021 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2010.04.17
Time: 07:40:39

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 37: Navigation Labels: 8E0-035-192-RNSE.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 035 192 HW: 8P0 035 192 
Component: RNS-E US H46 0260 
Revision: 03S Serial number: AUZBZ7S0003500
Coding: 0205135
Shop #: WSC 06435 000 00000
VCID: 6CDCDE144FEB5041A28-8039

2 Faults Found:
16352 - Control Module - Electrical Error 
014 - Defective
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101110
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 225
Mileage: 112528 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.12.16
Time: 17:59:39

01044 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded 
000 - - 
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 199
Mileage: 156247 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.02.21
Time: 12:48:33

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 42: Door Elect, Driver Labels: 8P0-959-801-MIN2.lbl
Part No: 8P0 959 801 H
Component: Tuer-SG 020 0090 
Coding: 0001275
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 40845AA413E364212E0-8015

1 Fault Found:
00120 - Outside Warning Light/Door exit Light Driver Side 
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 52: Door Elect, Pass. Labels: 8P0-959-802-MIN2.lbl
Part No: 8P0 959 802 H
Component: Tuer-SG 020 0090 
Coding: 0001275
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 41825FA018E96D2921E-8014

1 Fault Found:
00121 - Outside Warning Light/Door exit Light Passenger Side 
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio Labels: 8E0-035-192-RNSE.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 035 192 HW: 8P0 035 192 
Component: RNS-E US H46 0260 
Revision: 03S Serial number: AUZBZ7S0003500
Coding: 0205135
Shop #: WSC 06435 000 00000
VCID: 6CDCDE144FEB5041A28-8039

2 Faults Found:
16352 - Control Module - Electrical Error 
014 - Defective
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101110
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 225
Mileage: 112528 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.12.16
Time: 17:59:39

01044 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded 
000 - - 
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 199
Mileage: 156247 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.02.21
Time: 12:48:33


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

So, perhaps if I swap the following, all errors should disappear?!?!

Address 01: Engine
022 906 032 - Engine Control Module

Address 08: Auto HVAC
8P0 820 043 - HVAC Module

Address 17: Instruments
8P0 035 192 - Instrument cluster

Address 37: Navigation | Address 56: Radio
8P0 035 192 - RNS-E unit


----------



## Grey D (Mar 3, 2009)

Johnny, I'm not sure whats going on, but I hope for your sake it's not relevant to your Comfort Control Module. Mine was two years of issues that I am just now feeling confident enough to say are over.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Grey D said:


> Johnny, I'm not sure whats going on, but I hope for your sake it's not relevant to your Comfort Control Module. Mine was two years of issues that I am just now feeling confident enough to say are over.


Tell me more. What parts needed? Estimated cost? What issues were you having?


----------



## Grey D (Mar 3, 2009)

krazyboi said:


> Tell me more. What parts needed? Estimated cost? What issues were you having?


I had several electrical issues, including windows being unresponsive and the wireless functions on my keys not working. Can't remember what else. CCM was replaced at a large independent, then I went to have the keys re-coded by a dealer only to have them tell me I would need new keys altogether. Our keys are very expensive.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Guys, I think I found the problem to my issue with a grinding/rubbing sound while turning right:










I thought it was just snow and figured it would fall off or wear down quickly.. turns out that right there was a solid chunk of ice that took a chisel and hammer to break out :laugh: It needs to warm up - that thing has been frozen on there for over a week now!


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

BeeAlk said:


> Guys, I think I found the problem to my issue with a grinding/rubbing sound while turning right:
> 
> I thought it was just snow and figured it would fall off or wear down quickly.. turns out that right there was a solid chunk of ice that took a chisel and hammer to break out :laugh: It needs to warm up - that thing has been frozen on there for over a week now!


Lol, that's pretty funny. Glad it was a simple fix.


----------



## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

Pine needle in my blower. Just enough resistance to keep it from turning. No heat in the car all day. High of 20. Thank god my seat warmers go to 11.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> Guys, I think I found the problem to my issue with a grinding/rubbing sound while turning right:





krazyboi said:


> Lol, that's pretty funny. Glad it was a simple fix.


Well, seems like this wasn't the issue after all. On my drive into work today the sound was ever present. I took it through a car wash in hopes that maybe ice was still stuck somewhere. No change. It actually sounded a little louder after the wash, wtf!

I'm hoping it's not one of the new rear hubs I put on.. I'm terrified of it rapidly failing and losing a wheel while going down the highway.  It's hard to place where exactly the sound is coming from though. Almost seems like the front actually but I can't be too sure.

I should note that the sound only occurs when I'm slightly turning right - turning the wheel 1-2 inches. It doesn't seem to happen below about 15mph, and above about 45mph it either goes away or it's drowned out by road noise. Has anyone else experienced anything like this?


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## VW KEVIN G (Oct 26, 2000)

My 42 Draft Design catch can keeps freezing and plugging up. I drain it constantly but I still end up with one of the lines getting frozen solid. When this happens the oil starts blowing out of random places on the valve cover gaslket. The first time it happened I changed the gasket. Now it does it with the new gasket. I guess I will have to go back to the stock pvc system.


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## gls 1.8T cali-golf (Oct 22, 2007)

VW KEVIN G said:


> My 42 Draft Design catch can keeps freezing and plugging up. I drain it constantly but I still end up with one of the lines getting frozen solid. When this happens the oil starts blowing out of random places on the valve cover gaslket. The first time it happened I changed the gasket. Now it does it with the new gasket. I guess I will have to go back to the stock pvc system.




I heard of this same thing happening when I was working on my 1.8 and was considering a catch can. If you live in a cold weather climate, there is a risk of freezing occurring in the catch can circuit because of the water/gas/oil vapors not having the same freezing point as liquid oil. Probably would be a good idea to make sure none of the lines for the CC have any U shapes where the condensation could pool. At least winter is almost over. How much of a mess did it make of your engine?


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

VW KEVIN G said:


> My 42 Draft Design catch can keeps freezing and plugging up.


Would adding a little anti-freeze after emptying it help?


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Gotta do VTA and make sure your hose running from the valve cover slopes downwards only on its way to the CC.


----------



## HaLf3viL (Nov 27, 2008)

MY buddy is having an issue with his L/H door switches. I've searched this a little bit haven't come up with anything as a solution. His drivers side door switches are not working, nothing doesnt work at all.. the fuel door switch isnt working, and when he closes the door and is driving, it keeps saying door ajar.. I've scanned no codes, im gonna try and jump in with VAG-COM this weekend and see what if i can find anything out. If you guys know of anything in particular to look for in advance that would be great. Its a 2009 a3 auto trans.. i'm more of a B5 A4 guy so kind of in the dark with this one.. Thanks in advance


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

HaLf3viL said:


> MY buddy is having an issue with his L/H door switches. I've searched this a little bit haven't come up with anything as a solution. His drivers side door switches are not working, nothing doesnt work at all.. the fuel door switch isnt working, and when he closes the door and is driving, it keeps saying door ajar.. I've scanned no codes, im gonna try and jump in with VAG-COM this weekend and see what if i can find anything out. If you guys know of anything in particular to look for in advance that would be great. Its a 2009 a3 auto trans.. i'm more of a B5 A4 guy so kind of in the dark with this one.. Thanks in advance


Wires going from door to car are probably busted.


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## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

BeeAlk said:


> Wires going from door to car are probably busted.


Seconded.


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## HaLf3viL (Nov 27, 2008)

That's what I was thinking. as worst case scenario.. He is hoping different. thanks for the quick input :thumbup:


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## VW KEVIN G (Oct 26, 2000)

gls 1.8T cali-golf said:


> I heard of this same thing happening when I was working on my 1.8 and was considering a catch can. If you live in a cold weather climate, there is a risk of freezing occurring in the catch can circuit because of the water/gas/oil vapors not having the same freezing point as liquid oil. Probably would be a good idea to make sure none of the lines for the CC have any U shapes where the condensation could pool. At least winter is almost over. How much of a mess did it make of your engine?


I believe you are right. I did consider straightening some of the lines a little more but I don't know if there is enough slack to get them to slope directly down to solve the problem, at least not withought kinking the lines. I may try to play around with them a bit once the temperature goes up enough that I can work outside without instantly being frost bitten. Maybe I'll try to find some plastic elbows to make my turns a little closer to a 90 degree bend rather than a long U.
It made enough of a mess that the interior of the car smells overwhelmingly of burning oil every time I sit at a stop.


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## S-LineVinny (Dec 2, 2014)

Anyone remember what the service interval on the car's computer is? I think its ~16,000km?


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## Evo V (Dec 29, 2010)

S-LineVinny said:


> Anyone remember what the service interval on the car's computer is? I think its ~16,000km?


It's 10000 miles in US so 16000 km sounds about right.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Evo V said:


> It's 10000 miles in US so 16000 km sounds about right.


Close, it was 15k km - I reset mine to 8k km.


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

Leaving parking lot during lunch, older lady in a new passat backed into me. Rear bumper near hatch creased a little, paint is cracked like a spider web. FML :banghead::banghead::banghead:


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

My battery just dieded. but a friend came with quality cables and jump started at once.


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## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

So, after a long and dreaded winter, she took quite a beatdown from the abysmal roads and arctic temps. You guys think this is even remotely salvageable? My quick/cheap fix is likely going to be EMPI/FEQ since I can source that pretty quick up here in Canada. Raxles will take too long, and OEM is out of the question. This busted one is OEM, so I'm trying to debate wether it's worth keeping to either repair/repack, or am I dreaming?

FYI, this OEM axle went 110,000 miles before failing... damn impressive if I say so myself. I also plan on buying a new ride within 18 months, so am I better off just buying EMPI/FEQ axles?


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Did the cv blow up or just puke the grease? Was it making any noise prior?

As far as axles - stateside here we can get axles from from Autozone for $105, brand new (not remanufactured) with lifetime warranty that even covers a split boot. Not sure if any of your big box places up there in eskimoland have something similar.

Really, you can't go wrong with that. Even if they only last half as long as OEM, that's a good deal considering your next set would be free.

For what it's worth, my OEM axles lasted over 130k miles - and that was with well over a year of driving with split boots on both sides!


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

guys, how my axles are in good shape with 170k miles?? 

that means that the previous owner changed them down the road? I got the car with 110k miles on the clock. with a good cam follower and ... I've never done the t-belt. 



Also:

its good to go with Empi/Feq/Autozone in flashed Audi's ?? 

raxles with the core charge are 500 dollars, they include a shipping label for your oem ones. without it its 700 dollars alone. ouch


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

I think the OEM axles could last a very long time if the cv joints are taken care of. If they never split or are replaced without ever being contaminated, the axles are sure to last a long time.

Likely they've been replaced, as well as your TB. I'd be surprised to learn that there's 170k on the original. 

I don't think your car is putting down enough power to have to worry about axles lasting either.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> I don't think your car is putting down enough power to have to worry about axles lasting either.


the above poseter is doing 300 HP that the axle went ?


----------



## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

BeeAlk said:


> I think the OEM axles could last a very long time if the cv joints are taken care of. If they never split or are replaced without ever being contaminated, the axles are sure to last a long time.
> 
> Likely they've been replaced, as well as your TB. I'd be surprised to learn that there's 170k on the original.
> 
> I don't think your car is putting down enough power to have to worry about axles lasting either.


I actually put the car up on ramps this morning, and I can confirm that the left axle I posted above is EMPI, whereas the passenger side is original. So I'm not so surprised to see that after 100,000+ miles, the passenger side has held up till now, and the EMPI driver side has completely been mangled after only 2 years.

I'm from the North, where we get hot summers, and brutal winters. Axle repair/replacement is almost inevitable up here.... I Macgyvered the whole axle using an old bicycle tube since I'll only be able to get it fixed this Friday.


----------



## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

BeeAlk said:


> Did the cv blow up or just puke the grease? Was it making any noise prior?


From the looks of it, it seems like the metal cable tie just gave in because I don't see it anywhere. I'm getting a significant knock when I hit bumps on the road, but it's not so bad while turning as of yet.


----------



## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Here's my take on axles: A good set of axles (OEM, raxles) should last just about forever. Usually they fail because people don't notice or ignore a split in the boot and wait until they hear noise. You can get a new boot with clamps and grease at a local parts store (autozone, pepboys, kragen, O'reilly, etc) for less than $10. Remove (cut away) the split garbage boot while it's still on the car, clean out all the old grease, then remove the axle, replace the boot, and repack with grease. Then add clamps, and replace on the car. It really is more or less that simple. 

The reason a lot of people say to just drive the car until it makes noise and replace the axle is because axles are really cheap now. However, this is only because the market has been flooded with low quality chinese garbage that will fail. I mean, if you could get a new knockoff car engine for $400, would you just not change the oil, ever, because it's cheaper in the long run to get a new engine? Nevermind the fact that it's not made of the same materials, doesn't go through the same stress testing, and probably has casting issues or other imperfections. (I'm not even going to get into the wastefulness of doing this, because that's more of a personal value)

In some cases, people have reported problems with vibrations and noise immediately after install or after only a few thousand miles with the knockoff axles. It's your car, do what you want, but for me, it's worth the extra time and effort to keep the good piece on my car. Besides, if you check the axles every oil change, you'll probably notice an issue long before you have to actually replace the axle. But what if you don't want to remove the axle from the car just to replace the boot, because time is money? There's a tool for that: http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-A3-Quattro-2.0T/Tools/Drivetrain/ES1899405/

Anyway, that's the end of my long rant on axles. I realize I'm probably in the minority with that mindset, but I felt the need to add it to the discussion.


----------



## mypixeladdiction (Dec 1, 2011)

Over the past week, about 90% of the time I turn the car on the stereo is off. Not sure if I've accidentally changed some setting, or I do vaguely recall seeing some threads about gremlins in the system with the stereo unit.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

got rid of the vibration above 70mph :beer:
It was the tires.


----------



## mypixeladdiction (Dec 1, 2011)

And found another one. Driver's side rear door won't open from the inside.


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

mypixeladdiction said:


> And found another one. Driver's side rear door won't open from the inside.


Child lock engaged? Or perhaps the door was taken apart and not put back together property.


----------



## mypixeladdiction (Dec 1, 2011)

Ponto said:


> Child lock engaged? Or perhaps the door was taken apart and not put back together property.


I thought it was the child locks the first few weeks I had it when people couldn't get out that side, unfortunately that's not the case.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

The hook to the inside door handle on my rear driver's side popped off once all by itself.

It's really pretty easy to fix.


----------



## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

mypixeladdiction said:


> Over the past week, about 90% of the time I turn the car on the stereo is off. Not sure if I've accidentally changed some setting, or I do vaguely recall seeing some threads about gremlins in the system with the stereo unit.


The electrical portion of the ignition switch is likely failing, the TSB for this issue comes up for both MY's you own.


----------



## mypixeladdiction (Dec 1, 2011)

BeeAlk said:


> The hook to the inside door handle on my rear driver's side popped off once all by itself.
> 
> It's really pretty easy to fix.


I'm going to be working on the car either today or tomorrow. So I might as well take a peek at it. Did you have to take off the entire inside of the door, or is it possible to just take off the handle piece? 




Audi_Mechanic said:


> The electrical portion of the ignition switch is likely failing, the TSB for this issue comes up for both MY's you own.


I'll have it in the shop in a few weeks for some brake mods. Is this something I should have the shop take a look at, or is it something a novice could do at home? And how concerned should I be about getting to it fixing it soon?


----------



## Cris (Feb 26, 1999)

*'06 A3 front xenon level arm - part #?*

I noticed the headlights dipped to the lowest level after I hit something yesterday. Came to find out, the impact was enough to break off the front leveling arm for the xenons. I wanted to see if someone can help me identify the part # for replacement. 

Note in picture that arm and the base attached to the A-arm (bottom arrow) are gone. The level sensor works fine - I can move that broken lever (upper arrow) up/down and the lights will move up/down. 









Alternatively, I supposed I can just zip tie the arm so it stays in one position, but if I can find a less expensive replacement for whatever is missing, I'd like to do that instead. 

And I would really appreciate if someone could send a picture of the level arm off their 06-07 A3 FWD so i know exactly what it looks like before it broke off.

Thanks!


----------



## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

mypixeladdiction said:


> I'll have it in the shop in a few weeks for some brake mods. Is this something I should have the shop take a look at, or is it something a novice could do at home? And how concerned should I be about getting to it fixing it soon?


You need to remove the airbag, steering wheel, and steering column trim to access it, then you can work on digging it out of the lock cylinder housing. You can use the new switch as a guide to where the release tabs are. Not sure if a novice can tackle this job seeing how the first time I did the repair I had access to Audi's online repair manual. 

The current symptom you have says that it's not a big issue if it doesn't annoy you too much. But it may eventually cause the radio to shut off while you're driving, cause the doors to lock/unlock, and has the potential to drain the battery by turning things on. So you might not need to replace it right away, but shouldn't wait too long. If you decide not to do the repair yourself, then have the shop take care of it for you since it will be there anyway.


----------



## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

Cris said:


> And I would really appreciate if someone could send a picture of the level arm off their 06-07 A3 FWD so i know exactly what it looks like before it broke off.
> 
> Thanks!


My R32 has cast steel arms like your car seems to have in that picture so it should have the same setup. This angle is from behind the left front suspension.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

mypixeladdiction said:


> I'm going to be working on the car either today or tomorrow. So I might as well take a peek at it. Did you have to take off the entire inside of the door, or is it possible to just take off the handle piece?


Entire door card has to come off. But it's pretty easy to do.


----------



## L_A_456 (Apr 8, 2011)

Ponto said:


> Close, it was 15k km - I reset mine to 8k km.


Did you use VAG-COM? How? Gonna do a oil and filter change in the next couple of days, want a lower interval than I have now.


----------



## mypixeladdiction (Dec 1, 2011)

BeeAlk said:


> Entire door card has to come off. But it's pretty easy to do.





Audi_Mechanic said:


> You need to remove the airbag, steering wheel, and steering column trim to access it, then you can work on digging it out of the lock cylinder housing. You can use the new switch as a guide to where the release tabs are. Not sure if a novice can tackle this job seeing how the first time I did the repair I had access to Audi's online repair manual.
> 
> The current symptom you have says that it's not a big issue if it doesn't annoy you too much. But it may eventually cause the radio to shut off while you're driving, cause the doors to lock/unlock, and has the potential to drain the battery by turning things on. So you might not need to replace it right away, but shouldn't wait too long. If you decide not to do the repair yourself, then have the shop take care of it for you since it will be there anyway.


Thanks guys :thumbup:


----------



## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

For changing your service interval you go into 17-instrument cluster. I believe you then go to adaptation and select basic time/ mileage for oil and change the value. Even tho my cluster reads in miles I had to input KM.


----------



## L_A_456 (Apr 8, 2011)

louiekaps said:


> For changing your service interval you go into 17-instrument cluster. I believe you then go to adaptation and select basic time/ mileage for oil and change the value. Even tho my cluster reads in miles I had to input KM.



thank you


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Nothing.


----------



## Just-play (Aug 26, 2013)

hahahahahah now that made my day. Thanks!


----------



## eh (Mar 4, 2003)

I've had the following fault code recorded a few times:


```
000104 - MAP/MAF <-> Throttle Position Correlation 
               P0068 - 002 -  - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00100010
                    Fault Priority: 0
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Reset counter: 255
                    Mileage: 233107 km
                    Time Indication: 0

             Freeze Frame:
                    RPM: 1324 /min
                    Load: 11.8 %
                    Speed: 52.0 km/h
                    Temperature: 68.0∞C
                    Temperature: 12.0∞C
                    Absolute Pres.: 970.0 mbar
                    Voltage: 14.351 V
```
I'm not sure if it's the MAF or if the throttle body just needs a cleaning. I had been mostly ignoring the code until I had a situation this weekend where the ECU seemed to completely ignore input from the MAF until I erased the fault code. The car barely idled, the idle would bounce around and unplugging the MAF seemed to have no effect. Also, the DSG transmission wouldn't creep and wouldn't engage the clutch without significant throttle (engaging the clutch very abruptly) like it had no idea of engine load.

I decided to log block 003. These are both at 100% throttle (block 060 S1/S2 values are consistent) in 3rd and 4th gear.



















I feel like the graph should be a lot smoother? Is that a sign of a faulty MAF?


----------



## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

eh said:


> I've had the following fault code recorded a few times:
> 
> 
> ```
> ...


----------



## eh (Mar 4, 2003)

Thanks. That's what I figured, but I'm still curious about the graph. As an example, according to the MAF, the engine is taking in less air at 5,560 rpm than at 5,120 rpm. Seems odd, no?


----------



## eh (Mar 4, 2003)

There was a fair bit of carbon buildup. All clean now.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

eh said:


> There was a fair bit of carbon buildup. All clean now.


What was your method of cleaning?


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

BeeAlk said:


> What was your method of cleaning?


spit shine!


----------



## eh (Mar 4, 2003)

BeeAlk said:


> What was your method of cleaning?


I removed it and cleaned it with a toothbrush and CRC Throttle Body Kleen.


----------



## marcocampagna (Feb 21, 2015)

After a long winter in Canada I have some work to do:

1. The car only seems to want to lock/unlock randomly. Changed the FOB battery. No change.
2. Passenger side doors both have rust at the bottom. One of the doors is really bad. Also, rusting from the inside on rear rocker. Brought to the dealership to see if it will be covered. I was told they'd respond in a month or two.
3. Blown speaker. I have the crappy base system, so I see this as an opportunity.
4. Washer fluid reservoir is leaking. 

I still love this car though.


----------



## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

So found more areas that needs some TLC. I'm hoping someone on here can chime in on how difficult of a task it would be to replace this part.

Noticed significant oil in my driveway... I replaced the valve cover over the weekend, and also noticed another area with a leak. After doing some searching, I've pinpointed the problem to be the turbochargers oil line feed.










Can anyone here confirm if this is the correct oil line I need for this part? And is this in fact the correct problem that I've assessed?

Also, how hard would it be to replace this? I'm aware its just two banjo bolts, which, from my understanding simply needs to be torqued to 18lbs, depending on wether i use copper washers (more torque required?) or not. I just wanna know if it's even possible to swap this part without having a significant amount of other parts that would require removal. FYI, I already checked the DV, and it's fine.

One other thing... could a bad breather hose or even PCV cause something like this to happen, or is this simply because of inevitable stress and corrosion, combined with the fact that the car is chipped, to be the reason?

Here's another pic from on top of the engine bay, I pointed out the Breather hose so you get an idea of what your looking at.










'06 A3 with 120,000 miles on the odo.


----------



## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

eh said:


> I removed it and cleaned it with a toothbrush and CRC Throttle Body Kleen.


Definitely gonna tackle this on the weekend!


----------



## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

everfresh59 said:


> Here's another pic from on top of the engine bay, I pointed out the Breather hose so you get an idea of what your looking at.


If the second picture is taken from the top, then it looks like something was leaking onto the turbo and making it look like something else is leaking. A new valve cover/gasket might be all that you needed. Try cleaning everything off first, drive it around to get oil circulating, and then check to see where the oil leak is coming from. Start searching from the top and work your way down while inspecting.


----------



## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

Audi_Mechanic said:


> If the second picture is taken from the top, then it looks like something was leaking onto the turbo and making it look like something else is leaking. A new valve cover/gasket might be all that you needed. Try cleaning everything off first, drive it around to get oil circulating, and then check to see where the oil leak is coming from. Start searching from the top and work your way down while inspecting.


Yea, I cleaned up the mess atop the engine but wasn't able to clean out the mess at the bottom. Gonna give it another go on the weekend and hopefully it was only the vc gasket.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## meltorment (Jan 20, 2009)

car has been at the dealership for the past coupla days. just got a call that the flywheel needs to be replaced.
it was sounding like a engine with gear drive before i took it in! 
no performance mods and only 17k on the clock 
already had the water pump replaced. sheesh.
at least i get to drive a 2015 a3 sedan as a loaner till next week.


----------



## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

Torn fuel line


----------



## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

Torn? It looks twisted. That's the HPFP, right? Any recent work on the HPFP or cam follower?


----------



## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

Yeah a buddy of mine and I twisted it. Was about to do the autotech internals upgrade, then i noticed... :/ oh well


----------



## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

We worked on the follower a few weeks back


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

how can it get twisted like that?


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> how can it get twisted like that?


Too much working out.


----------



## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

Lmfao, honestlt, i think we tightened it without holding the rail. If we wouldve held it, it wouldn't have gotten that bad


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

fob remote controller doesn't work anymore


----------



## Ruthle$$Turtle (Mar 4, 2010)

*just another day of*

here's my issues 
Front drivers turn signal doesnt work but rear and side do (bulbs are are good )if i leave the bulb in it stays on. passenger side front and rear perfect side no go...


ideas? i think there is a dead short or a bad ground somewhere.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

krazyboi said:


> Too much working out.


lol too much spinach



GvFx said:


> Lmfao, honestlt, i think we tightened it without holding the rail. If we wouldve held it, it wouldn't have gotten that bad


wow tathats crazy. good call when doing the cam follower next time. 


regarding my fob key is more dead than the deads.
when trying to reprogram it with vagcom, the car flases its lights when i press the fob's unlock button, but it wont work afterwards even erasing the fobs


----------



## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

The marks on the brass fitting looks like it was used to loosen the fuel line, which is the wrong way to loosen it. Correct way is to loosen the silvery nut that secures the hard line to that brass fitting. If that brass fitting starts to turn as you try to loosen the fuel line nut, then you need to counterhold the brass fitting.

Or there was some serious corrosion on that fuel line nut that welded it to the hard line and forced the line to turn with it. The fuel line nut usually can be loosened/tightened most of the way by hand and final tightening is done with a wrench. But I live/work in socal so I haven't seen any kind of corrosion that could do that.



GvFx said:


> Torn fuel line


----------



## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

Beats me, so much for doing the autotech internals swap. Lol


----------



## cody.eich (Mar 22, 2015)

I used to drive a WRX and felt like I never needed to replace anything except for oil, bulbs, and wiper blades occasionally. Good thing I have a better job now than when I had the WRX. 

*In the last few months I've...*
1. Replaced diverter valve (GFB DV+) (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/561116-B7-A4-2-0T-Diverter-Valve-Removal-Installation)
2. Replaced left CV boot
3. Replaced right CV boot
4. Replaced front pads and rotors
5. Replaced timing belt/water pump
6. Spark plugs
7. Serpentine belt

*In the next week*
8. Replacing thermostat after I noticed the temp. gauge playing dead and then got a check engine light (http://forums.fourtitude.com/showth...ge-disabled-due-to-coolant-performance-faults)
9. Replacing rear pads and rotors
10. Fixing driver inside door handle (I like this haha http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...to-your-A3&p=81980378&viewfull=1#post81980378)
11. Replacing corroded passenger headlight plug 
12. Fixing flickering tail light
13. Leveling ride height on coilovers after they have fully settled (I'm getting lazy and had a shop install them for me!)
14. Alignment


*Whenever I get to it*
15. Fixing this sad dent in my rear fender  (although when I bought the car, the seller of the car went down $1000 in price for the dent!!)


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

^^ nice
curious what was the fix on the rear taillight flickering?


----------



## jumalian (Apr 16, 2015)

had to put it on the charger...again. sigh...


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

cody.eich said:


> I used to drive a WRX and felt like I never needed to replace anything except for oil, bulbs, and wiper blades occasionally. Good thing I have a better job now than when I had the WRX.
> 
> *In the last few months I've...*
> 1. Replaced diverter valve (GFB DV+) (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/561116-B7-A4-2-0T-Diverter-Valve-Removal-Installation)
> ...


So how many miles does the A3 have? And how many did the subi have? 

Just out of curiosity. 

Sent from my Igloo


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

All day yesterday, I was trying to diagnosis my electrical gremlin.

I think I narrowed it down to Fuse 47/48 under the hood, which relates to the front driver/passenger headlights, fogs, turn signals, and parking lights...maybe.

This morning, when I was driving, I had low fuel. I fed the witch and when starting the car, the upper display in the DIS is pitch black. I can go to Menu and the upper display is fine.

Is there something wrong with the link between RNS-E and the instrument cluster? Fuse? HELP!!!!!!!!


----------



## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

krazyboi said:


> All day yesterday, I was trying to diagnosis my electrical gremlin.
> 
> I think I narrowed it down to Fuse 47/48 under the hood, which relates to the front driver/passenger headlights, fogs, turn signals, and parking lights...maybe.
> 
> ...


JT, check the wires from the RNS-E something must have come lose. I installed an aftermarket HU and the upper part is pitch black too since there is no information going into it from the aftermarket.


----------



## cody.eich (Mar 22, 2015)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> ^^ nice
> curious what was the fix on the rear taillight flickering?


Not sure yet. I was hoping to get to it this weekend, but didn't get the chance. Might be another couple weeks now.


----------



## cody.eich (Mar 22, 2015)

Ponto said:


> So how many miles does the A3 have? And how many did the subi have?
> 
> Just out of curiosity.
> 
> Sent from my Igloo


Audi has almost 139,000 km

WRX had 130,000 miles (209,215 km) when I sold it. I am from Colorado. I did do the 120,000 mile service on the WRX which included the timing belt, etc., but I remember the whole service costing me about $800 at the dealer. The same (basically) service cost me about $1200 for the Audi and wasn't even at the Audi dealership, just at an Audi certified mechanic. I did the regular things like brakes on the WRX, but nothing out of the ordinary ever really seemed to go wrong on it. All the finishes on the interior seemed to last better than the Audi too, although the Audi feels nicer inside for sure. 

Just interesting to think about. I love the Audi, it just seems like I've had to do a lot of things already. Tomorrow I'm having the shop that's doing my alignment, rear brakes, and replacing my thermostat, replace the corroded headlight plug as well. I'm driving to the States on Thursday and have too many things to do for my trip to tackle these things right now.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

neu318 said:


> JT, check the wires from the RNS-E something must have come lose. I installed an aftermarket HU and the upper part is pitch black too since there is no information going into it from the aftermarket.


Would you happen to know if there's a connection from RNS-E to fuse panel? I guess I'll have to pull the head unit and check the back.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

cody.eich said:


> Audi has almost 139,000 km
> 
> WRX had 130,000 miles (209,215 km) when I sold it. I am from Colorado. I did do the 120,000 mile service on the WRX which included the timing belt, etc., but I remember the whole service costing me about $800 at the dealer. The same (basically) service cost me about $1200 for the Audi and wasn't even at the Audi dealership, just at an Audi certified mechanic. I did the regular things like brakes on the WRX, but nothing out of the ordinary ever really seemed to go wrong on it. All the finishes on the interior seemed to last better than the Audi too, although the Audi feels nicer inside for sure.
> 
> Just interesting to think about. I love the Audi, it just seems like I've had to do a lot of things already. Tomorrow I'm having the shop that's doing my alignment, rear brakes, and replacing my thermostat, replace the corroded headlight plug as well. I'm driving to the States on Thursday and have too many things to do for my trip to tackle these things right now.


Thats some good maintenance. Also is good to check/swap the cam follower, and the DSG fluid too :thumbup:


----------



## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

krazyboi said:


> Would you happen to know if there's a connection from RNS-E to fuse panel? I guess I'll have to pull the head unit and check the back.



Not that I know of


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

neu318 said:


> Not that I know of


No worries, it's back. Lol. Stupid gremlin


----------



## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

You ask what's wrong with my A3? What's wrong with my A3 is what has been wrong with it from the beginning...it's not an S3 nor and RS3:banghead:
It will never change to a sedan ever but that's what is being shoved down my throat. I have come to the conclusion that it's not that hatchbacks don't sell well, it's that hatchbacks with crappy low HP don't sell. So here's to opcorn: while I wait till maybe 2017. Yeah...I'm bitter


----------



## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

here is todays whats wrong.

driving through town the other day, and I hear this horrible scraping screeching sound, and a very pronounced metal clang and bang rattle going over potholes. Great. I am thinking how much is THIS gonna cost me.....

Saturday, I jack her up, and pull the right rear wheel off... phew its only the tin dust shield for the brake. (formerly) Held on by 3 little torx screws to the hub housing. Not rusted, not rotted, but just flopping around making a god awful noise.

the metal on the shield cracked in a nice little ring around each screw head. Vibrated to death metal fatigue? wtf. 
A pita to get to, behind the rotor. Note: going to need Rear pads and discs soon..

My first thought was to get the tin snips or sawzall,, and amputate the dust shield. But It was a nice day, and I had some time, so I found some just right sized stainless washers in my sailboat parts box and sandwiched the dust shield between two washers at each bolt, and put it back nice and tight. Success..

now if i can find the other oxygen sensor for a decent price. :banghead:


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

SilverSquirrel said:


> here is todays whats wrong.
> 
> driving through town the other day, and I hear this horrible scraping screeching sound, and a very pronounced metal clang and bang rattle going over potholes. Great. I am thinking how much is THIS gonna cost me.....
> 
> ...


I wish I had a sailboat parts box!


----------



## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

Woke up to a dead car this morning. Put a new battery in it because it was due. My friend sent me this then:

"Newer Audi's and BMWs and minis you have to program the battery to the car- I can't figure out for sure if an 07 needs to be but we had to program the 08 a6 we had. If it does need programmed and it doesn't get done it can cause a lot of issues in the future."

I've never dealt with that before. Anyone know if 07's need this programming done?


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

justagirlandhercar said:


> I've never dealt with that before. Anyone know if 07's need this programming done?


Nope, however, you may have reset your auto window up/down function. If you did, just hold up on each button a few seconds and it'll work again.


----------



## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

^ This. No issues replacing the battery on my '07. Or disconnecting it for hours at a time.


----------



## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

krazyboi said:


> Nope, however, you may have reset your auto window up/down function. If you did, just hold up on each button a few seconds and it'll work again.





lausch said:


> ^ This. No issues replacing the battery on my '07. Or disconnecting it for hours at a time.


Thanks guys! ️


----------



## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

SilverSquirrel said:


> driving through town the other day, and I hear this horrible scraping screeching sound, and a very pronounced metal clang and bang rattle going over potholes.....................


After the third time a rock got caught in one of my dust shields, I took them all off!


----------



## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

JRutter said:


> After the third time a rock got caught in one of my dust shields, I took them all off!


did you cut them off in place (I would assume with woodworking power tool) or remove the rotor and caliper carrier, and take them off intact?


----------



## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

Get this. . Stage 2+... going 100 max. My apr boost tap disconnects.. bam insane idling running 60 mph.. pull over seconds later. Plug it in. Ecu sis only boosting 10 psi seconds later... 30 minutes of driving and im back to 20 psi. Ecu? Anyways.. minutes later I red line and bam clutch locks up. Pedal is not depressed wont shift unless car is off. Disconnect battery car now shifts, but there is a jerk. Stop, disconnect battery. Switch apr boost tap. Car is running normal as ever. Im so lost.


----------



## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

SilverSquirrel said:


> did you cut them off in place (I would assume with woodworking power tool) or remove the rotor and caliper carrier, and take them off intact?


Ha- they are intact! Came off during a brake service.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

JRutter said:


> Ha- they are intact! Came off during a brake service.


my front passenger dust shield is torn to pieces from rust. Is any cons to removing the 4 shields? There are there for something or its ok? dusty senario can harm the brakes?


----------



## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

Battery dead...again. Dealer told me they fixed the draw issue. I'm calling bull****. Seems like an intermittent draw though because it's every other day. Car sat for only six hours overnight and had less than five volts. Looks like it's going back to the dealer.


----------



## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

got the pain in the ass upshift paddle stuck issue. figured it was a piece of plastic caught in the spring mechanism. battery off, airbag out, paddle shifter out and so is the plastic piece. works like a charm now


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

justagirlandhercar said:


> Battery dead...again. Dealer told me they fixed the draw issue. I'm calling bull****. Seems like an intermittent draw though because it's every other day. Car sat for only six hours overnight and had less than five volts. Looks like it's going back to the dealer.


Another 3.2 w/ battery issues...not fun.

One possible thing is to look at the main ground cable. When I first had a battery issue years ago, that cable was bad.


----------



## Snifly (Aug 9, 2014)

I was about to replace the brake light switch on my 2007 A3 but there wasn't one on the brake pedal like every guide suggests. Is it in a different location (does it depend on the year the car was made)?

-S-


----------



## Kevin A3 Quattro (Sep 10, 2014)

a/c not working- have to replace the hi/low switch and get a regas


----------



## shaner3721 (Jul 6, 2011)

*3.2 fan noise!*

Have only had the car for a few months and now that it is starting to be consistently warm out (70 Degrees) the fans run *insanely loud* when the car is driven for any minor amount of time. I understand that the car needs to cool off when it heats up, but this seems excessive...

Can any one confirm or deny if the 3.2 fans are just this loud or if I might have a control module issue that is forcing the fans to always run at full speed?


----------



## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

shaner3721 said:


> Have only had the car for a few months and now that it is starting to be consistently warm out (70 Degrees) the fans run *insanely loud* when the car is driven for any minor amount of time. I understand that the car needs to cool off when it heats up, but this seems excessive...
> 
> Can any one confirm or deny if the 3.2 fans are just this loud or if I might have a control module issue that is forcing the fans to always run at full speed?


Have you opened the hood to see if both fans are running? Could be that one is compensating for the other. Scanned for trouble codes?


----------



## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

I win for biggest PITA job of the day (at least on this thread)
Under the car on ramps, on my back, replacing post cat 02 sensors. One finally free after a pb soak, and contorting my wrench setup just right to get some leverage. Front ones were WAY easier. 

The other one is soaking. maybe overnight at this point. Im beat.


----------



## Kevin A3 Quattro (Sep 10, 2014)

shaner3721 said:


> Have only had the car for a few months and now that it is starting to be consistently warm out (70 Degrees) the fans run *insanely loud* when the car is driven for any minor amount of time. I understand that the car needs to cool off when it heats up, but this seems excessive...
> 
> Can any one confirm or deny if the 3.2 fans are just this loud or if I might have a control module issue that is forcing the fans to always run at full speed?


in cabin noise in my 3.2 is always minimum- cant recall ever hearing the fans run loud enough that would cause me to think something was wrong


----------



## dfwvw (Sep 22, 2003)

I switched over to my summer wheels yesterday. I changed my left inner cv boot in jan. when I did a euro spring fsd suspension. I noticed that the other three cv joints are leaking. I think im going to go through the summer and do them in the fall september. I also have an R32 rear sway bar to install which will be fun.


----------



## DG7Projects (Jul 12, 2011)

Stupid belly pan came loose. Tried to put it back on and found that the two main holes are no longer holes. :banghead: Yanked that f_cker off. Ordered a new one for $66.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

my wp started a huge leak. I think that the time has come, t-belt here I come. Iam going to have a talk with my mechanic, just ordered the G12, and gonna go get a triple square bit for the balancer bolts. thankfully I had a pre-vision of this, and have a fresh t-belt kit on the basement waiting for the moment :beer:


----------



## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

Came back from SOWO in Helen Georgia and both rear tires have bubbles on the contact area that meets the road. WTF?!?! Guess I'm buying two new tires.


----------



## Shizuka (Apr 19, 2006)

*P2177 fault code*

My 2006 A3 2.0t got P2177 fault code and it keeps coming back every time I cleared it. I don't feel major problem from engine.
What is the possible problem throwing this fault? Any advice would be appreciated.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06F-907-115-AXX.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 907 115 B HW: 8P0 907 115 B
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0080 
Revision: --H14---
Coding: 0103010A1C070160


1 Fault Found:
008567 - Bank 1; System Too Lean off Idle 
P2177 - 001 - - Intermittent - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 10100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 38
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 158219 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.12.24
Time: 13:03:02

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2482 /min
Load: 49.8 %
Speed: 83.0 km/h
Temperature: 93.0°C
Temperature: 30.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 980.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.589 V

Readiness: 0000 0000


----------



## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

Shizuka said:


> My 2006 A3 2.0t got P2177 fault code and it keeps coming back every time I cleared it. What is the possible problem throwing this fault?


Looks like you possibly have an intake system leak somewhere. Might be just under boost, or vacuum, or both. While the engine idles, can you remove the oil fill cap? Dipstick fully seated?


----------



## Evo V (Dec 29, 2010)

So I parked on Friday to pick up my kids and while exiting the house I hear pssssss and massive pink puddle formed immediately underneath the car. Second water pump in 8k miles. Luckily I had spare at home so I started working on it. The problem this time was an oil leak from my upper timing chain cover. I replaced the gasket without removing the engine mount. I removed the pump without removing the intake manifold. If you do it once you have an idea where the bolts are. Saturday didn't have more than 2-3 hrs to work on the car so I left assembling it for Sunday. What a surprise - massive rain storm and driveway is not covered. Oh well lesson learned - always check the forecast. Finally put everything together today but I have fun weekend ahead of me. I discovered a head gasket leaking and thus causing water pumps to fail. I was planning to replace timing tensioner, timing chain and upper valve cover. I will only need to remove 8 more bolts to get to the head gasket Joy, Joy, Joy...


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## jmarch (Apr 17, 2012)

Pulled up to a three way stop. When it was my turn the car lurched forward and made several loud clunking sounds and I could feel a bad vibration through the steering wheel. I limped the car off the road, put it in park, and turned it off. Checked the coil packs, MAF, oil, coolant, and everything seemed ok. No fluid under the car. Then waited awhile, turned it back on motor sounded great, revved up normally but when I tried to put it in gear it made a rough grinding sound then a clunk, and it wouldnt go into gear. 

At this point I'm assuming it's the S-tronic. I got it towed home, and placed in the garage. I disconnected the battery, and looped the cables together through a long screwdriver as per a friends (vw tech) recommendation. Then after 20 minutes reconnected, started the car, and it went into gear smoothly. I went back and forth in the garage at idle and it was smooth I'll take it for a drive down my road on Sunday when I return home. 

Anyone have any other thoughts or suggestions? I'm dreading the possibility that the S-tronic may need work. What are people hearing. mods are in my sig, and it has 158,000kms on it.


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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

> jmarch: Anyone have any other thoughts or suggestions?


Have you checked for trouble codes? Any recent repairs?


----------



## yonip79 (Feb 16, 2011)

check your vacuum hoses and all the other hoses if there is crack on them and change it.


----------



## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

Both brake lights burn out within minutes of each other in a 110+ degree heat & a traffic jam.

(outer taillight assembly, inside bulbs).

Weird, Freaky :vampire:

Within the past year, I have changed bulbs in both outer taillight assemblies, and the left inner taillight assembly. Related?

Waiting till morning to replace the bulbs (hopefully I have two bulbs left, bought extras with my other outages), letting them cool down. Heat related?

I hope the wiring is ok and the heat did not melt anything.

Weird, Freaky :wave:


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

azoceanblue said:


> Both brake lights burn out within minutes of each other in a 110+ degree heat & a traffic jam.


This morning I was flying around a turn when a warning light flashed on and I just saw "brake" and freaked out.... It's just the brake light.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

azoceanblue said:


> Both brake lights burn out within minutes of each other in a 110+ degree heat & a traffic jam.
> 
> (outer taillight assembly, inside bulbs).
> 
> ...


I was having this happen to me too. The bases of my bulbs at the contact points were actually melting. Turns out your generic bulbs from the auto parts stores are made with high lead content in on the contacts which melts rather easily. When I recently bought bulbs from Audi the contacts were made from something that appears to have less lead (harder, shinier) and so far things have been good.


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

BeeAlk said:


> I was having this happen to me too. The bases of my bulbs at the contact points were actually melting. Turns out your generic bulbs from the auto parts stores are made with high lead content in on the contacts which melts rather easily. When I recently bought bulbs from Audi the contacts were made from something that appears to have less lead (harder, shinier) and so far things have been good.


Theoretically, you want the metal soft, so it conforms to the contact over a large area, making good contact. However, after time and repeated expansion and contraction due to heating every time the light is on, there can be intermittent contact which will then cause excessive heat at the point of contact.

Which is exactly what happened to my bulb. It was not burnt out but the contact on the bulb was mostly gone. I cleaned off the contact and bent it a little so it applies more force to the new bulb, hopefully preventing the problem in the future.


----------



## vwlippy (Jul 17, 2001)

The sender in the Meyle fuel pump I installed in February FAILED already. 
Now I have to buy a new pump, install and send my old gas soaked unit back. 

Thats gonna be fun.


----------



## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

BeeAlk said:


> I was having this happen to me too. The bases of my bulbs at the contact points were actually melting. Turns out your generic bulbs from the auto parts stores are made with high lead content in on the contacts which melts rather easily. When I recently bought bulbs from Audi the contacts were made from something that appears to have less lead (harder, shinier) and so far things have been good.


Dealer bulbs 

I have to replace both of the bulb assembly boards (?), $65 each and all three bulbs on each side to be safe.

I hope I do not have electrical gremlins 

:wave:


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## cupboy (Sep 3, 2006)

*license plate*

Tried replacing the license plate on the back and 3 of the 4 screws are stripped. Can't even get the old plate off.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

cupboy said:


> Tried replacing the license plate on the back and 3 of the 4 screws are stripped. Can't even get the old plate off.


Same thing happened to me when I first got my car. I had to extract two stripped bolts. I replaced them with stainless hardware so it doesn't happen again.


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## jumalian (Apr 16, 2015)

my ac isn't blowing cold air...and it's been 110+ (F) here for the past 2 weeks.


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

right rear brake dragging... pads wearing fast. squeaks. hot hot hot.

took it apart, cant tell if the caliper is seizing, or the parking brake not letting go. Disco'd the cable, and tried to turn the piston in, and was going in hard, but got maybe a full turn with the shwabbin tool. Went to put new rotor and pads, could only break one carrier bolt free.. If you havent had the pleasure of trying to get any kind of leverage on a quattro rear caliper carrier bolt, without a lift, you havent lived. feel the pain. yes, I bent a cheapo 16" breaker bar. :banghead:

my back hurts. 

Im done. 
its going to the shop. 

any of you guys in the salty north east had to replace a rear caliper yet?


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

SilverSquirrel said:


> right rear brake dragging... pads wearing fast. squeaks. hot hot hot.
> 
> took it apart, cant tell if the caliper is seizing, or the parking brake not letting go. Disco'd the cable, and tried to turn the piston in, and was going in hard, but got maybe a full turn with the shwabbin tool. Went to put new rotor and pads, could only break one carrier bolt free.. If you havent had the pleasure of trying to get any kind of leverage on a quattro rear caliper carrier bolt, without a lift, you havent lived. feel the pain. yes, I bent a cheapo 16" breaker bar. :banghead:
> 
> ...


If access to the carrier bolts is any worse on the quattro than it is on the fwd, **** THAT. With about 1" of ratcheting space and no room for leverage, it's just a nightmare.

Did you have to go straight up from underneath to get access to it? That was the only way I was able to get my breaker bar in..


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

BeeAlk said:


> If access to the carrier bolts is any worse on the quattro than it is on the fwd, **** THAT. With about 1" of ratcheting space and no room for leverage, it's just a nightmare.
> 
> Did you have to go straight up from underneath to get access to it? That was the only way I was able to get my breaker bar in..


Crows Foot, FTW!


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

MisterJJ said:


> Crows Foot, FTW!


The problem with the rear caliper carrier bolts is they are a triple square bit, like M14 or something, so you really need to be able to get a socket in there. I just pulled one of my rear calipers off the other day to replace a wheel bearing (FWD, not AWD) and it wasn't that hard 

Of course, I have a longer handled flex-head Snap-On 3/8" drive ratchet with a high number of engagement points, so that helps...


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

TBomb said:


> The problem with the rear caliper carrier bolts is they are a triple square bit, like M14 or something, so you really need to be able to get a socket in there. I just pulled one of my rear calipers off the other day to replace a wheel bearing (FWD, not AWD) and it wasn't that hard
> 
> Of course, I have a longer handled flex-head Snap-On 3/8" drive ratchet with a high number of engagement points, so that helps...


imagine what you had, but with a booted cv joint and drive shaft in the middle of everything, and the lower bolt being rusted in after 9 salty new england winters. Needs to be on a lift, 30" breaker bar. done.


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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

Most rear Audi brakes with solid discs don't require removal of the caliper carrier bracket, even some vented rear discs can be removed witout touching the caliper carrier. A particular brake package on the front of a C6 A6 doesn't even need caliper bracket removal to replace the discs. Although I don't remember if the A3 is one of those cars that requires rear bracket removal for disc replacement. Have you guys ever tried to pry them off first?


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

Audi_Mechanic said:


> Most rear Audi brakes with solid discs don't require removal of the caliper carrier bracket, even some vented rear discs can be removed witout touching the caliper carrier. A particular brake package on the front of a C6 A6 doesn't even need caliper bracket removal to replace the discs. Although I don't remember if the A3 is one of those cars that requires rear bracket removal for disc replacement. Have you guys ever tried to pry them off first?


tried, but no go. 286mm rotor, TRW caliper. Would be nice if they lifted right out like that, for sure. Should the piston be hard to screw back in? It was going, but with a lot of resistance.


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## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

SilverSquirrel said:


> Should the piston be hard to screw back in? It was going, but with a lot of resistance.


Did you open the fluid reservoir cap?


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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

SilverSquirrel said:


> tried, but no go. 286mm rotor, TRW caliper. Would be nice if they lifted right out like that, for sure. Should the piston be hard to screw back in? It was going, but with a lot of resistance.


Depends on what your threshold is. They definitely don't run in easily, but the tool used will determine how hard it is to turn in. You have to compress the pistion and turn it in at the same time. If you do too much of one or the other, it will make it hard to run the piston back in. The tool I use allows you to do both at the same time but it is a little difficult to spin two things at once so I alternate between compression and rotation. 



lausch said:


> Did you open the fluid reservoir cap?


It shouldn't matter, I never do. Cap allows ventilation for fluid level variations during braking, wear, temperature.


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

2nd Engine CEL in 2 weeks :banghead:

Dealer said code for first one was P0456 (evap control system leak detected very small leak) and they & indy mechanic cannot see me, too busy :banghead: :banghead:

(Dealer til Monday, guess I'm not worth it with my 7 year old car  )

P0456 - EVAP Control System Leak Detected Very Small Leak

- Missing or loose fuel cap
- Incorrect fuel filler cap used
- Fuel filler cap remains open or fails to close
- Foreign matter caught in fuel filler cap
- Evaporative Emission (EVAP) canister or fuel tank leaks
- Evaporative Emission (EVAP) system hose leaking
- Fuel tank leaking

Replaced gas cap last week. The new gas cap does not look like the old cap. Wrong gas cap?


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

SilverSquirrel said:


> imagine what you had, but with a booted cv joint and drive shaft in the middle of everything, and the lower bolt being rusted in after 9 salty new england winters. Needs to be on a lift, 30" breaker bar. done.



I'd rather not imagine the 9 salty New England winters :laugh:...but I wouldn't mind imagining the extra axles 

I had to get to the bottom one from underneath to get enough leverage. The top one sucks due to the position of the shock and control arm, leaving you a very small amount of room in which to turn a wrench, nevermind even being able to get a socket on a breaker bar in there in the first place.


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

Audi_Mechanic said:


> Depends on what your threshold is. They definitely don't run in easily, but the tool used will determine how hard it is to turn in. You have to compress the pistion and turn it in at the same time. If you do too much of one or the other, it will make it hard to run the piston back in. The tool I use allows you to do both at the same time but it is a little difficult to spin two things at once so I alternate between compression and rotation.


Thanks, Audi Mechanic. I disconnected the parking brake cable for now. (to rule out sticking cble) threw the rusty shims in the trash, cleaned things up, and put the old pads back in for now, about 4 mm of material left on one, 6mm on the other. I used the shwabin tool with the adapters, that pushed and turns like you said, but it was my first tie using that, so i dont have the feel. I did back the piston in about a full turn, to try and free things up, without the cable. 

a few test drives yesterday, and the wheel stayed nice and cool, but this morning it was a bit warm, after a 15 min. drive no where near as bad as it had been, but the brake is still dragging. Do you think new pads and rotor, once the piston is pushed all the way in, will free up the caliper, or is it replace/rebuild time?


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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

SilverSquirrel said:


> Do you think new pads and rotor, once the piston is pushed all the way in, will free up the caliper, or is it replace/rebuild time?


New rear pads should come with new mounting shims/clips so maybe they'll help a lilttle but probably not. Have you removed the slide pins and re-lubricated them? They are what the caliper bolts thread into and they mount inside the carrier bracket with dust boots. With the caliper off you can just push on them and see if they move in freely and push themselves back out freely; if air gets squeezed out of the boots they won't rebound so you'll have to pull on them. If you still have sticking problems then you will need to rebuild or replace the caliper. I've never rebuilt a rear caliper so I don't know if it's a worthwhile repair. I've always just replaced the caliper since it is much more likely to provide long term reliability. 

When installing caliper pistons you need special lubricant that won't eat the seals. Brake fluid is a terrible lubricant and it will be very difficult to reinstall pistons if it is used. You need to weigh the cost for all the parts to rebuild plus the uncertainty vs an already rebuilt or new caliper. A plain seal kit is cheap but might not be all you need and depending on how you look at it, might suck if it doesn't remedy your caliper issue.


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

Audi_Mechanic said:


> New rear pads should come with new mounting shims/clips so maybe they'll help a lilttle but probably not. Have you removed the slide pins and re-lubricated them? They are what the caliper bolts thread into and they mount inside the carrier bracket with dust boots. With the caliper off you can just push on them and see if they move in freely and push themselves back out freely; if air gets squeezed out of the boots they won't rebound so you'll have to pull on them. If you still have sticking problems then you will need to rebuild or replace the caliper. I've never rebuilt a rear caliper so I don't know if it's a worthwhile repair. I've always just replaced the caliper since it is much more likely to provide long term reliability.
> 
> When installing caliper pistons you need special lubricant that won't eat the seals. Brake fluid is a terrible lubricant and it will be very difficult to reinstall pistons if it is used. You need to weigh the cost for all the parts to rebuild plus the uncertainty vs an already rebuilt or new caliper. A plain seal kit is cheap but might not be all you need and depending on how you look at it, might suck if it doesn't remedy your caliper issue.


Thanks for your detailed reply, Audi Mechanic. Good tips on the caliper. 
Any warnings against a reman. / core swap deal, vs a new oem TRW caliper?
I am glad you mentioned the guide pins. I didnt mention it, but it was the first thing i assumed and checked, but they were good, still nice and well lubed from the last pad and rotor change, but for anyone in the future reading this thread from a search, definitely check and lube them. I have had to put the torch to more than one of those things on older cars.


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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

SilverSquirrel said:


> Thanks for your detailed reply, Audi Mechanic. Good tips on the caliper.
> Any warnings against a reman. / core swap deal, vs a new oem TRW caliper?
> I am glad you mentioned the guide pins. I didnt mention it, but it was the first thing i assumed and checked, but they were good, still nice and well lubed from the last pad and rotor change, but for anyone in the future reading this thread from a search, definitely check and lube them. I have had to put the torch to more than one of those things on older cars.


After too many problems with aftermarket parts on my own cars, I have returned to using almost exclusively dealer parts. Unless I know for sure something is the same part minus labeling. For example, 'aftermarket' Luk clutch kit and dmf for audi/vw applications are the exact same parts as what a dealer gets, minus logos and part #s. 

But just because a part is made by the same manufacturer as oe, it doesn't always mean it was made to the same quality. Just this week I replaced a breather valve on a customer's B7 A4 2.0t that was leaking at its seams when smoke tested. It had the correct part # cast into it, looked just like a new oe part, but was missing audi/vw logos. They had it replaced the month prior at an independent for an intake leak code. We replaced it for free to the customer under an open recall. It still had an intake leak fault but I discovered the car had the wrong engine; was supposed to have BWT but someone installed a BPG that has the older fsi system :screwy:

Sorry to get long again but I try to explain my viewpoint so my reasoning can be understood. If you get a reman unit, make sure it is an oe part with an audi part # (reman parts end in X). Aftermarket rebuilds aren't worth the risk. TRW is an oe supplier of brake parts so whatever they make should be good. ECS tuning lists a TRW rear caliper seal kit with assembly lube for about $9, so if they actually fit your calipers and you don't mind the time and effort spent, it will make for a cheap experiment. Or just buy a new unit and be done with it. Call your local dealer, supply VIN, get a part number and use it to shop around on the interwebs for best price. If the dealer has a reman part # and the price difference isn't very high compared to new, go with new.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

I have a grinding sound after a poor rear pads job. Could be the same problem?


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

Audi_Mechanic said:


> After too many problems with aftermarket parts....


good post. this kind of wisdom from a pro is much appreciated by us home mechanics whos experience is limied to the cars in the driveway...


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## hentotheree (Dec 3, 2014)

my damn water pump is leaking again.... just replaced it about 4 months ago......


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

azoceanblue said:


> 2nd Engine CEL in 2 weeks :banghead:
> 
> Dealer said code for first one was P0456 (evap control system leak detected very small leak) and they & indy mechanic cannot see me, too busy :banghead: :banghead:
> 
> ...


take off your N80 purge valve and tap in on the canister outlet side to release grunge and replace or just replace the N80 valve


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## mypixeladdiction (Dec 1, 2011)

Temp display was showing 65 while driving around today. It was 91 out.


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

Tcardio said:


> take off your N80 purge valve and tap in on the canister outlet side to release grunge and replace or just replace the N80 valve


:thumbup: Replaced, Thanks :wave:


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## tiptronic (Apr 18, 1999)

mypixeladdiction said:


> Temp display was showing 65 while driving around today. It was 91 out.


That happens to my car when I take it to a high pressure washer. I think the sensor gets confused. But it eventually fixes itself. But is yours a constant wrong reading?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk


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## mypixeladdiction (Dec 1, 2011)

tiptronic said:


> That happens to my car when I take it to a high pressure washer. I think the sensor gets confused. But it eventually fixes itself. But is yours a constant wrong reading?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk


I had taken it to a self-wash place yesterday morning. Gauge was showing the correct temps today.


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## toadham (May 17, 2013)

Getting old!


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

^^^ I'm about to hit 5X that number. So please stfu


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

Seat backs are coming unglued  :wave:

I pushed them back in place, but to me, it seems stupid that the plastic seat backs are glued (sticky taped) :facepalm:

I cannot think of a reason for someone wanting to take the plastic panels off :bs:

They should be secure with screws or locking pins (?).

:wave:


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## mypixeladdiction (Dec 1, 2011)

mypixeladdiction said:


> Over the past week, about 90% of the time I turn the car on the stereo is off. Not sure if I've accidentally changed some setting, or I do vaguely recall seeing some threads about gremlins in the system with the stereo unit.





Audi_Mechanic said:


> The electrical portion of the ignition switch is likely failing, the TSB for this issue comes up for both MY's you own.


Well, radio finally went ballistic. Yesterday on my drive home it started turning off and on over and over and over and there was a clicking sound coming from the steering column. Was hoping to hold off on fixing it until my next mod when it would be in the shop, but the car didn't want to wait. Setting up a doctors visit for the car for next week :/


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## DG7Projects (Jul 12, 2011)

Not a damn thing. She's actually ready to go to her new owner. :laugh:


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## AngryGiraffe (Sep 21, 2014)

azoceanblue said:


> Seat backs are coming unglued  :wave:
> 
> I pushed them back in place, but to me, it seems stupid that the plastic seat backs are glued (sticky taped) :facepalm:
> 
> ...


Sh¡t. I was cleaning the car tonight and noticed mine came loose on the drivers side. Did the same thing you did. If it happens again I will have to re glue it. Terrible design.:bs:


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## wishntoboutside (Mar 11, 2002)

DG7Projects said:


> Not a damn thing. She's actually ready to go to her new owner. :laugh:


Quiter-).


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## DG7Projects (Jul 12, 2011)

wishntoboutside said:


> Quitter-).


Not quite. I still have a 3 door S3 in Italy. I'm still very much tethered to the A3 community. :beer:


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## bobbeck (Jan 4, 2001)

This makes a nice mess when it breaks on the highway. 



Part # 1K0 121087H $15 dealer & $40 worth of VW coolant. 

Lasted 201,179 miles.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

bobbeck said:


> Part # 1K0 121087H $15 dealer & $40 worth of VW coolant.
> 
> Lasted 201,179 miles.


I'm coming up on 150k miles. Sounds like a good preventative maintenance item to me. Maybe we should start a list...


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## Jack Watts (Jul 19, 2015)

MisterJJ said:


> I'm coming up on 150k miles. Sounds like a good preventative maintenance item to me. Maybe we should start a list...


Funny, I thought the same thing when I saw that part. I was thinking that a cooling hose re-fresh at 10 years wouldn't be a bad idea, seeing that reminded me of that idea...


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

man that little tiny piece of hose coupler broke on me and left me with only one eye vision for couple of mins. lol I still remember that stream of pressurized warm coolant penetrating my open right eye. 
the Royal PITA is removing the hoses that are attached to it.


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## bobbeck (Jan 4, 2001)

Yeah, I got a coolant shot too. If it were any lower in the engine bay, I'd get a set of those 24" spring pliers to remove the clamps. A good old set of vice grips worked fine though.


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

DG7Projects said:


> Not quite. I still have a 3 door S3 in Italy. I'm still very much tethered to the A3 community. :beer:


I'm heading to Italy in 10 days for a week. Where's your car? I need something to drive.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

bobbeck said:


> This makes a nice mess when it breaks on the highway.
> 
> 
> 
> ...





2006_A3_2.0T said:


> man that little tiny piece of hose coupler broke on me and left me with only one eye vision for couple of mins. lol I still remember that stream of pressurized warm coolant penetrating my open right eye.
> the Royal PITA is removing the hoses that are attached to it.


Mine snapped the same exact way somewhere around 135k miles, which resulted in this picture of me getting towed by a friend:


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

BeeAlk said:


> Mine snapped the same exact way somewhere around 135k miles, which resulted in this picture of me getting towed by a friend:



Ugh man WTF...now I'm freaking out as I approach 100,000 miles hoping this part doesn't crap out on me. What/where is this part located? I realize it is a coolant Y-pipe of some sort with a tiny nipple on it that likes to break off...how hard is it to replace? I assume you have to drain the coolant in order to do it...


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

there's an alluminium replacement from one of the forum's vendors. Can't remember the name of them ... they provide lots of billet alluminium replacement parts like the oil dipstick and that Y coupler. I wanted to go that route but it costs like a hundred or close.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

TBomb said:


> Ugh man WTF...now I'm freaking out as I approach 100,000 miles hoping this part doesn't crap out on me. What/where is this part located? I realize it is a coolant Y-pipe of some sort with a tiny nipple on it that likes to break off...how hard is it to replace? I assume you have to drain the coolant in order to do it...


From what I remember it's directly to the right anda couple inches below the HPFP. Easy to replace and doesn't require draining the system, you will lose some though.



2006_A3_2.0T said:


> there's an alluminium replacement from one of the forum's vendors. Can't remember the name of them ... they provide lots of billet alluminium replacement parts like the oil dipstick and that Y coupler. I wanted to go that route but it costs like a hundred or close.


I remember seeing that part as well but the price basically made it not worth buying. The OEM piece for me was like $15 or so and if it lasts another 100k+ I'm ok with that.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Outside air temp is being funky. It gets stuck on whatever it was last reading. It's been doing this occasionally for a while but I only really paid attention today.

At about 9am it was reading 73 when I parked. Around noon it's about 90 out and when I start it up it says 73 and stayed at 73 for a one block ride. Parked in the sun for 1/2 hour and drove back, all the time reading 73 when it's around 90 outside. At 2pm I drive the block again, with it still reading 73. Leave work at 3pm and after two blocks it finally bumps up to 74 and a few blocks later it's made it up to 76. I get stuck at a long light and it never budges from 76 until I put in another 2 blocks, so it's only changing when I've driven a certain distance. I watch, and it consistently changes 1 degree in a little less than .2 miles. After about 10 minutes of driving it's finally topped out at 91 degrees.

So it seems that the sensor is working and I suspect it is supposed to not change quickly (or it would bounce every time you went under a bridge), so that part seems to work okay but it's not updating properly when the car is first started. Sounds kinda like a software glitch to me.


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## bobbeck (Jan 4, 2001)

TBomb said:


> Ugh man WTF...now I'm freaking out as I approach 100,000 miles hoping this part doesn't crap out on me. What/where is this part located? I realize it is a coolant Y-pipe of some sort with a tiny nipple on it that likes to break off...how hard is it to replace? I assume you have to drain the coolant in order to do it...


. 

To give you an idea where it's at. No hard to get to at all.


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## CorrieG60 (Jan 18, 2004)

After swapping some Golf mkV R32 seats in my 2006 A3 SP, all my windows aren't working anymore... :banghead:
Neither windows are responding, not to the main switch in the drivers-doorcard, neither on their own switch..
Checked all fuses: OK

Anyone that can guide me in the right direction??

Just swapped the seats, didn't touch the doorcards/switches....


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## MrsYareka (Dec 29, 2012)

Just replaced the tensioner last week. Had Audi replace my water pump this week under the recall. Seat backs are falling apart. Was quoted $40 per seat for them to remove all the old glue and re glue them. Meh... I'll do it myself. Just ordered my passenger side LED turn signal that is in the side mirror. Should be here Tuesday. Will try to install that myself and then hope I've fixed ask the problems.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Do you have a link to the water pump recall? I got wind of it from the Mk6 forums, but haven't been able to find anything from AoA.


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## MrsYareka (Dec 29, 2012)

Don't have the link to the site. Just did a search for Audi vin lookup and I believe it came up. Called Audi the next day, gave them my vin, and they confirmed it. Had it scheduled for the same week. No problems.


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

AngryGiraffe said:


> Sh¡t. I was cleaning the car tonight and noticed mine came loose on the drivers side. Did the same thing you did. If it happens again I will have to re glue it. Terrible design.:bs:


:thumbup: opcorn: 



:wave:


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## skotti (Sep 27, 2005)

CorrieG60 said:


> After swapping some Golf mkV R32 seats in my 2006 A3 SP, all my windows aren't working anymore... :banghead:
> Neither windows are responding, not to the main switch in the drivers-doorcard, neither on their own switch..
> Checked all fuses: OK
> 
> ...


First- POST PICS!!!
The windows are completely inop? Or just the single touch up/down?
If just the single touch- Did you disconnect the Battery? If so, just press and hold the window switches fron the drivers panel and lower/raise them individually. Should work normally after that.
Hope this helps?


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

after installing the downpipe now I have an odd rattle:

only at 1500-1800 rpm mostly when desacelerating. It comes from the dash, specially in the middle/below dash... 


Could be the common fuel lines rattle? Its after the DP install, I suspect something in the firewall/heatshields, but remembered about the fuel line rattles that most ppl have here, specially the ones with aftermarket downpipes. Maybe the 3"dp now make them sound when the oem dp keept them quite? help


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> after installing the downpipe now I have an odd rattle:
> 
> only at 1500-1800 rpm mostly when desacelerating. It comes from the dash, specially in the middle/below dash...
> 
> ...



I believe the fuel line rattle comes from the passenger (LHD) floorboard area. If it's in the middle/center dash, it is almost certainly the downpipe hitting the firewall heat shield. Make sure you have some generous clearance there, as the engine moves quite a bit fore/aft and the downpipe can hit the metal heat shield and cause a rattle.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

TBomb said:


> I believe the fuel line rattle comes from the passenger (LHD) floorboard area. If it's in the middle/center dash, it is almost certainly the downpipe hitting the firewall heat shield. Make sure you have some generous clearance there, as the engine moves quite a bit fore/aft and the downpipe can hit the metal heat shield and cause a rattle.


thats spot on. Its coming from in front of the dash, center, like from behind the radio. 

I went down there to lube the hanger's soft mounts that hold the DP to the subframe because it was chirping a lot after a mild rain fall.

That solved but the desacelerating rattle is kinda annoying. I will go down there with some pry bar or somehting to make room for the DP.

ITs only when "braking" with the engine, just when the revs pass between 1600-1800 rpm, only there.


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## wishntoboutside (Mar 11, 2002)

Check engine light on again after being reset last week. To the shop it goes. The sad thing is that the enterprise rental peeps know me by face after the third rental.


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

front passenger window makes a screeching sound moving up and down, takes longer to open/close


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

neu318 said:


> front passenger window makes a screeching sound moving up and down, takes longer to open/close


Pull the door apart and clean/grease the window regulator and arms.


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## bobbeck (Jan 4, 2001)

Clickity clack clickity clack from left outer cv joint. RAxles quotes $250 a side for axles. Ordering soon.


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## jrfeatherman (May 2, 2014)

New coolant sensors, but when car idles in traffic temp drops slowly and stays warm while driving..thinking a bad thermostat

Sent from my D6616 using Tapatalk


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## [email protected] (Aug 5, 2015)

Very small evap leak. Got a new gas cap on the way to see if that fixes it.


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## skotti (Sep 27, 2005)

jrfeatherman said:


> New coolant sensors, but when car idles in traffic temp drops slowly and stays warm while driving..thinking a bad thermostat
> 
> Sent from my D6616 using Tapatalk


I'd put money on it. Mine went at around 5X,000 miles. Getting TB done next week, sitting at 82,000 miles, and thermostat will be replaced as well as other required items.


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Very small evap leak. Got a new gas cap on the way to see if that fixes it.


do't bet on it . It's your purge valve


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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> Very small evap leak. Got a new gas cap on the way to see if that fixes it.





Tcardio said:


> do't bet on it . It's your purge valve


I agree, fuel cap's likely not going to fix it. In 8yrs I haven't come across a faulty gas cap outside of a recall. Sometimes the cap seal dries out, cracks, and eventually leaks. The seal is replaceable if that's the case. 

Use a hand vacuum pump to drop pressure on engine side of purge valve; if it leaks, it will probably fix the evap leak code.


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> Very small evap leak. Got a new gas cap on the way to see if that fixes it.





Tcardio said:


> do't bet on it . It's your purge valve





Audi_Mechanic said:


> I agree, fuel cap's likely not going to fix it. In 8yrs I haven't come across a faulty gas cap outside of a recall. Sometimes the cap seal dries out, cracks, and eventually leaks. The seal is replaceable if that's the case.
> 
> Use a hand vacuum pump to drop pressure on engine side of purge valve; if it leaks, it will probably fix the evap leak code.


Just replaced my purge valve a few weeks back. Replaced gas cap, didn't fix uneven idle at about 1500 rpm, but the purge valve did. I was also experiencing decreased gas mileage. About 1.5 mpg.

I was also experiencing surges in my miles-to-empty in my driver's information display. After short wot's, my miles-to-empty would spike 20 to 50 miles-to-empty higher. This also went away and my mpg's went back to normal.

That was until this past weekend, when I had another miles-to-empty spike.  :banghead:  (Mpg's are down on this tank, will hold verdict until after a couple fill ups.)

I really don't know what it could be? Fuel filter(s)?

:wave:


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## [email protected] (Aug 5, 2015)

Tcardio said:


> do't bet on it . It's your purge valve





azoceanblue said:


> Just replaced my purge valve a few weeks back. Replaced gas cap, didn't fix uneven idle at about 1500 rpm, but the purge valve did. I was also experiencing decreased gas mileage. About 1.5 mpg.
> 
> I was also experiencing surges in my miles-to-empty in my driver's information display. After short wot's, my miles-to-empty would spike 20 to 50 miles-to-empty higher. This also went away and my mpg's went back to normal.
> 
> ...





Audi_Mechanic said:


> I agree, fuel cap's likely not going to fix it. In 8yrs I haven't come across a faulty gas cap outside of a recall. Sometimes the cap seal dries out, cracks, and eventually leaks. The seal is replaceable if that's the case.
> 
> Use a hand vacuum pump to drop pressure on engine side of purge valve; if it leaks, it will probably fix the evap leak code.



Welp, time to do a purge valve.


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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

azoceanblue said:


> Just replaced my purge valve a few weeks back. Replaced gas cap, didn't fix uneven idle at about 1500 rpm, but the purge valve did. I was also experiencing decreased gas mileage. About 1.5 mpg.
> 
> I was also experiencing surges in my miles-to-empty in my driver's information display. After short wot's, my miles-to-empty would spike 20 to 50 miles-to-empty higher. This also went away and my mpg's went back to normal.
> 
> ...


 So, your miles to empty value spikes (as in it goes up/increases?) but MPG's are down/have decreased? If that is the case then I understand your confusion/frustration cause that's some weird sh!t going on.

You replaced the gas cap without it providing a remedy so then you replaced the purge valve which led to a successful repair? When a purge valve leak is so bad that it causes drivability problems, it can drop the pressure inside the fuel tank to the point of it collapsing. This can lead to bending of the fuel delivery unit's spring loaded supports which throws off fuel level readings. You will have to remove the delivery unit to check this, preferably at a low fuel level. This bending happens often with B7 A4s but I don't remember if it happens to other platforms. If you know how many gallons usually go in at fill up, is it the same amount but you're getting less miles or is it taking less gallons than usual to fill up?

An uncommon failure, but sometimes the fuel tank rollover valve fails and allows raw fuel to enter the charcoal canister. The raw fuel makes its way to the purge valve and causes it to leak. This usually happens almost immediately after starting the engine. Why a valve that controls the flow of fuel vapors to fail if liquid fuel runs through it, I dunno. But test the new valve with a vacuum pump to see if it's leaking. If it is, unplug the lines to the canister and see if liquid fuel comes out. If you get some drips, fuel tank, canister, purge valve.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

anybody knows where's the alarm control module located?


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

Audi_Mechanic said:


> So, your miles to empty value spikes (as in it goes up/increases?) but MPG's are down/have decreased? If that is the case then I understand your confusion/frustration cause that's some weird sh!t going on.
> 
> You replaced the gas cap without it providing a remedy so then you replaced the purge valve which led to a successful repair? When a purge valve leak is so bad that it causes drivability problems, it can drop the pressure inside the fuel tank to the point of it collapsing. This can lead to bending of the fuel delivery unit's spring loaded supports which throws off fuel level readings. You will have to remove the delivery unit to check this, preferably at a low fuel level. This bending happens often with B7 A4s but I don't remember if it happens to other platforms. If you know how many gallons usually go in at fill up, is it the same amount but you're getting less miles or is it taking less gallons than usual to fill up?
> 
> An uncommon failure, but sometimes the fuel tank rollover valve fails and allows raw fuel to enter the charcoal canister. The raw fuel makes its way to the purge valve and causes it to leak. This usually happens almost immediately after starting the engine. Why a valve that controls the flow of fuel vapors to fail if liquid fuel runs through it, I dunno. But test the new valve with a vacuum pump to see if it's leaking. If it is, unplug the lines to the canister and see if liquid fuel comes out. If you get some drips, fuel tank, canister, purge valve.


AM, thanks for your reply :thumbup:

The miles-to-empty spike does not last. Within a few miles, 5 to 10 miles, the miles-to-empty reading is back where it started or below, which would make sense because of the miles driven.

On occasion, over the 71k miles that I have owned this A3 (purchased with 8k miles), just after start up and backing out of the garage, I occasionally smell gasoline. I do not know if this is related in any way. I just thought I would mention it.

As far as on how many gallons go in; I calculate my mpg for every fill up. 

My first tank after my 75k service I noticed the decrease in mpg, from 26.4 mpg before the service (5 tanks), to 24.6 mpg after the service (5 tanks). Since the purge valve was replaced, 26.8 mpg (6 tanks).

My observation from earlier in the week, may have been due to too many short trips and wot outbursts 

My miles-to-empty plus miles driven is back up to around 400 mile range, which is close to what I get in the summertime with heavy AC usage. 

AM, you are very much appreciated on our forum, thanks :thumbup:

:wave:


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## [email protected] (Aug 5, 2015)

Did my purge valve at lunch. Now let's see if they CEL stays off. :thumbup:


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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

azoceanblue said:


> :wave:


You're welcome :thumbup:

Okay, it was just a matter of understanding the tone of your post. I wasn't sure if you were still having problems or your reduced mpgs were related to your WOT bursts. So I took a safe route and replied with what I felt may have been helpful.


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

No problems here 

I think the longer you have a car, the more its niggles/quirks bug you, and you want them gone. Some of the niggles were probably always there or as the car has aged, have become more noticeable. Also frustrations with Audi not continuing to offer the Sportback in the form you want . . . or, I would like to have, could have, the new Q3 or A6 3.0T, but it is allot of money to spend, for an A3'er that is approaching retirement in a few years.

I hope we can continue to ask you, our poorly worded questions. :wave:

I have a little compassion for my Audi service adviser now, owners ask some weird questions, and it is not clear what we feel the problem is.

I can only hope my 3, gets the mileage that some of the other members here (over 200k miles, get out of here :what: ) :heart: .


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

$3,200 - DSG, both clutch packs need replaced   

2 DSG service's, complained about DSG issues at least once, and their service tech's didn't detect the 2 clutch's were slipping 

Heard weird noises from DSG, but didn't know if they were normal or not.

But, with the diagnosis, yes, the clutches were/are, slipping :facepalm:

:wave:


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## derek.c (Aug 7, 2015)

Can anyone tell me if my HPFP has a banjo bolt or if you cannot tell from the pics? 


http://imgur.com/a/aWENA


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

azoceanblue said:


> $3,200 - DSG, both clutch packs need replaced


Dealer did some extra extensive diagnostics on my DSG and said the mechatronics was bad, which I knew, and also the clutch packs needed replacing so they recommended a new transmission for about $6,500. :screwy:

I replaced the mechatronics only and have put on about 60k miles since without a problem.


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

MisterJJ said:


> Dealer did some extra extensive diagnostics on my DSG and *said the mechatronics was bad*, which I knew, and also the clutch packs needed replacing so they recommended a new transmission for about $6,500. :screwy:
> 
> I replaced the mechatronics only and have put on about 60k miles since without a problem.


My greatest fear   

If this happens, hopefully I can raise some stink and get them both covered (clutch packs & mechatronics) :vampire:

:wave:


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

azoceanblue said:


> My greatest fear
> 
> If this happens, hopefully I can raise some stink and get them both covered (clutch packs & mechatronics) :vampire:
> 
> :wave:


Your 2009 should be fine and covered. Us early years were screwed.


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

Hope so 

I still don't understand how the clutch slippage was not detected earlier during the DSG or regular services where they had to do a test drive (Audi Mechanic?).

As far as I knew, the transmission was working fine :facepalm: until, occasionally, the DSG would not go into reverse (over the past 3 1/2 months since the 75k service). [Not going into reverse without putting the selector back into Park or Neutral and then back into Reverse.]

:wave:


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## CorrieG60 (Jan 18, 2004)

Having trouble uploading pics....

Windows don't respond at all to their individual switches(both front and rear).
When using VCDS, no fault when scanning, to test the actuators: all windows function perfectly..
But still no luck respnding to the switches..

Also the Open Sky roof doesn't respond as well(aparently no actuator test possible)
Problem started I think after I put in my immo-defeat ECU, new style cluster and the R32 seats...

Anyone got ideas?
Coding problem? Immo problem(car starts and runs fine, everything else is working perfectly)?


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

DSG is starting to do some random "kicks" when starting from a stop, from time to time, like 1 out of 10 times, when pressing the gas pedal from a complete stop in D mode, it will jerk and start like if it was launch control lol  looks like DSG adaptation time


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> DSG is starting to do some random "kicks" when starting from a stop, from time to time, like 1 out of 10 times, when pressing the gas pedal from a complete stop in D mode, it will jerk and start like if it was launch control lol  looks like DSG adaptation time


When was your last dsg fluid change? The kicks get worse when you are due I've noticed. 

Sent from my Igloo


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

@audi_mechanic, I got a question. I've been driving my car a bit lately and noticed recently that my wheels are slipping when making hard turns. The traction light comes on. The only recent change is installing a pair of new tires on the rears. 

Anything else to look for?


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

krazyboi said:


> @audi_mechanic, I got a question. I've been driving my car a bit lately and noticed recently that my wheels are slipping when making hard turns. The traction light comes on. The only recent change is installing a pair of new tires on the rears.
> 
> Anything else to look for?


All the power. Too much torques

Sent from my Igloo


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

Ponto said:


> When was your last dsg fluid change? The kicks get worse when you are due I've noticed.
> 
> Sent from my Igloo


It will turn a year in November since the last DSG fluid change... maybe is due?


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> It will turn a year in November since the last DSG fluid change... maybe is due?


Typical interval for the DSG fluid is every 30,000-35,000 miles depending on your driving habits and, I would say, whether or not you have a DSG tune.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

krazyboi said:


> @audi_mechanic, I got a question. I've been driving my car a bit lately and noticed recently that my wheels are slipping when making hard turns. The traction light comes on. The only recent change is installing a pair of new tires on the rears.
> 
> Anything else to look for?


I couldn't say for certain, but I know that new tires can be slick as snot until the mold release gunk wears off of them completely. I'd say at least 500 miles or so before they're really working at their optimum grip level.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

TBomb said:


> I couldn't say for certain, but I know that new tires can be slick as snot until the mold release gunk wears off of them completely. I'd say at least 500 miles or so before they're really working at their optimum grip level.


Yep, gotta scrub them in before they will hook up properly.. 200 miles or a few awd burnouts should do the trick.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

BeeAlk said:


> Yep, gotta scrub them in before they will hook up properly.. 200 miles or a few awd burnouts should do the trick.


Option 2 sounds like a better plan


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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

krazyboi said:


> @audi_mechanic, I got a question. I've been driving my car a bit lately and noticed recently that my wheels are slipping when making hard turns. The traction light comes on. The only recent change is installing a pair of new tires on the rears.
> 
> Anything else to look for?


New rear tires? On front whee- .... oh, 3.2T. Umm, what do your front tires look like? Scan for codes, maybe something's up with ABS or Haldex. 

Even with Haldex, you're still FWD based with variable torque AWD. The amount of slip in the haldex clutch will be high until abs detects a reason to tell haldex to reduce slip. When turning the wheel your front tire contact patch gets reduced (turn steering to full lock and take a look if you've never noticed) and provides a loss of traction (one of the sources of understeer on these cars). So it may take a little longer for the haldex to catch up. Better tires up front (if necessary) might even out the available traction. What is your weather like, starting to get cold or wet?


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Audi_Mechanic said:


> New rear tires? On front whee- .... oh, 3.2T. Umm, what do your front tires look like? Scan for codes, maybe something's up with ABS or Haldex.
> 
> Even with Haldex, you're still FWD based with variable torque AWD. The amount of slip in the haldex clutch will be high until abs detects a reason to tell haldex to reduce slip. When turning the wheel your front tire contact patch gets reduced (turn steering to full lock and take a look if you've never noticed) and provides a loss of traction (one of the sources of understeer on these cars). So it may take a little longer for the haldex to catch up. Better tires up front (if necessary) might even out the available traction. What is your weather like, starting to get cold or wet?


First time I noticed it, it was raining so I didn't think anything of it. 

Second time was dry, about low 70s. Was taking a left turn at an intersection at string 10-15 mph.

When I last put a new pair of tires on, I put them up front and didn't experience this. Maybe I'll just swap them.


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

BeeAlk said:


> Yep, gotta scrub them in before they will hook up properly.. 200 miles or a few awd burnouts should do the trick.


will that 3.2T do an AWD smokeshow on asphalt? I can only get my regular 3.2 to spin 4 wheels on dirt or snow.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

SilverSquirrel said:


> will that 3.2T do an AWD smokeshow on asphalt? I can only get my regular 3.2 to spin 4 wheels on dirt or snow.


All you need to do some AWD burnouts is less traction. Get some old, bald tires and smoke out your neighborhood. That, or add a ton of power to the equation.


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## aznsap (Aug 7, 2010)

flushed my brake/clutch fluid.

introduced air into the clutch system--didn't realize that the line to the slave cylinder is like halfway up the main brake fluid compartment. what a silly design, I think. it's gotta be topped off if you're going to manually flush your clutch line w/o introducing air into the system. 
eventually flushed and flushed, had a couple passes w/o air bubbles but there were still small bubbles coming out. took it for a test drive and was still able to shift gears.


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## Rathroe (Dec 13, 2011)

I replaced my clutch this weekend, and found out my axles were going bad. They hadn't been making any noise before I ripped everything apart, but now they sound horrid every time I turn the wheels. New Raxles are ordered and going on next weekend.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Damn 6-electron element!

Random misfires.... CEL this morning. Codes show repeated misfires on both cylinder 2 and 4. I was hoping to wait to clean that crap until the timing belt in 10k miles. I suppose it could be something easy like coil packs or spark plugs... yeah, right... not my first day owning an Audi. :banghead:


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

SilverSquirrel said:


> will that 3.2T do an AWD smokeshow on asphalt? I can only get my regular 3.2 to spin 4 wheels on dirt or snow.





npace said:


> All you need to do some AWD burnouts is less traction. Get some old, bald tires and smoke out your neighborhood. That, or add a ton of power to the equation.


I guess if I have nothing better to do, I'll give it a shot.


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

krazyboi said:


> I guess if I have nothing better to do, I'll give it a shot.


all captured on video, of course:wave:


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

Apparently, I have been closing the hood wrong for the past almost six years :facepalm:

On the outside, I can now see an image of the outlines of the underneath hood supports 

Somehow, I knew or should have known, dropping the hood from 3" to 6" inches to close it, would lead to something like this 

:wave:


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

azoceanblue said:


> Apparently, I have been closing the hood wrong for the past almost six years :facepalm:
> 
> On the outside, I can now see an image of the outlines of the underneath hood supports
> 
> ...


OCD oil level checker?

I've been doing this for 10 years without a problem. Maybe your latch is too low.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

after installing the 3"DP appeared a sqeeking sound when slowly moving the car on 1st gear.
I thought its comingfrom underneath but yesterday it got loud and is coming from the front left side undercarriage.
what could be? the DP's hanger where it has those kind of bushings or things, or a strut mount, or a tranny mount?


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

MisterJJ said:


> OCD oil level checker?
> 
> I've been doing this for 10 years without a problem. Maybe your latch is too low.


I only check the oil every two weeks or so (it's not a 2006 :laugh: )

Tried to get a pic of it yesterday, but apparently it has to be colder out (cold front that went through last week, i could see the outline clean as day). I could only see the briefest of the outline before it got dark at work yesterday.


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## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

I only see the outline when it's lightly covered in snow/water and the engine is hot. Which would be normal for any car.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

Driver's side rear window regulator shat the bed on me last night coming home from work. Went to roll the windows up with the all-up and right as it got to the top I heard this loud POW and some crackling noise...at first I thought the window had somehow shattered but it was fine...guess the noise was the cable breaking and the tension causing it to snap against the inside of the door...


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

TBomb said:


> Driver's side rear window regulator shat the bed on me last night coming home from work. Went to roll the windows up with the all-up and right as it got to the top I heard this loud POW and some crackling noise...at first I thought the window had somehow shattered but it was fine...guess the noise was the cable breaking and the tension causing it to snap against the inside of the door...


I know the pain. I was in Columbus, OH (about 500 miles from home) when my driver's window did the same thing. I was pulling out of a parking garage, rolled my window down to pay the fee, then half way up my regulator exploded. It wasn't warm or dry, so I had to duct tape the window up to the frame to keep it from sliding down into the door


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

BeeAlk said:


> I know the pain. I was in Columbus, OH (about 500 miles from home) when my driver's window did the same thing. I was pulling out of a parking garage, rolled my window down to pay the fee, then half way up my regulator exploded. It wasn't warm or dry, so I had to duct tape the window up to the frame to keep it from sliding down into the door


Yeah I would have been OK to survive until I got a replacement if I would have realized what happened instead of rolling my window down half way before I figured it out :banghead: It would have been all the way up and I'd be home free, but now I can't get it to go all the way up...


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

TBomb said:


> Yeah I would have been OK to survive until I got a replacement if I would have realized what happened instead of rolling my window down half way before I figured it out :banghead: It would have been all the way up and I'd be home free, but now I can't get it to go all the way up...


Have someone hit the UP switch while you sandwich the glass between the two of your hands while pulling upwards. That's how I got mine to go up. the regulator is already ****ed so you won't be making things any worse.


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## DG7Projects (Jul 12, 2011)

BeeAlk said:


> I know the pain. I was in Columbus, OH (about 500 miles from home) when my driver's window did the same thing. I was pulling out of a parking garage, rolled my window down to pay the fee, then half way up my regulator exploded. It wasn't warm or dry, so I had to duct tape the window up to the frame to keep it from sliding down into the door


Something similar happened to me when I picked up the A3 from Texas. I had the car for exactly 6 hours. Was on my way to El Paso from Houston and was getting tired so I pulled over at a rest stop, rolled all windows down, and took a power nap. 

Woke up 30 minutes later and when I rolled up my windows, the exact same thing happened to my rear passenger window. I hella McGyvered that situation by using paper that I folded like 5-6 times and wedged it in there to hold the window up. I knew that wasn't gonna hold for very long so I decided that my first stop in El Paso would be to Home Depot. Bought a rubber door wedge, cut it in half, and wedged it between door and window. It was very effective and I left it in there until I took the car to the stealership for warranty work. 

What a sh*tty situation being so far from home. It all worked out in the end. :laugh:


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Pssh I wish I just had a window regulator blow. Lol

Sent from my Igloo


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

DG7Projects said:


> Something similar happened to me when I picked up the A3 from Texas. I had the car for exactly 6 hours. Was on my way to El Paso from Houston and was getting tired so I pulled over at a rest stop, rolled all windows down, and took a power nap.
> 
> Woke up 30 minutes later and when I rolled up my windows, the exact same thing happened to my rear passenger window. I hella McGyvered that situation by using paper that I folded like 5-6 times and wedged it in there to hold the window up. I knew that wasn't gonna hold for very long so I decided that my first stop in El Paso would be to Home Depot. Bought a rubber door wedge, cut it in half, and wedged it between door and window. It was very effective and I left it in there until I took the car to the stealership for warranty work.
> 
> What a sh*tty situation being so far from home. It all worked out in the end. :laugh:


What's funny is that the home depot part would probably be a more effective long term solution :laugh:



Ponto said:


> Pssh I wish I just had a window regulator blow. Lol
> 
> Sent from my Igloo


What happened to you?


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

had some one went all vandalic on my car and stole a fish eye sticked to my left mirror 
all this while parked at my apartment complex.
well in the end today I went buying one of those things as I can't drive this car without one, and ended paying 1.50 dollars (800 pesos) for a set of 2 :sly:


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> had some one went all vandalic on my car and stole a fish eye sticked to my left mirror
> all this while parked at my apartment complex.
> well in the end today I went buying one of those things as I can't drive this car without one, and ended paying 1.50 dollars (800 pesos) for a set of 2 :sly:


Buy the blindspot mirrors. Problem solved :thumbup:


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

krazyboi said:


> Buy the blindspot mirrors. Problem solved :thumbup:


yeah Johnny that mirrors are a must opcorn: 

That next mod, along with some S4 mirror covers FTW

edit:

for anyone looking for one of those mirrors (prefacelift): on sale at ecs

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-A3-FWD-2.0T/ES2778207/


----------



## hentotheree (Dec 3, 2014)

this started appearing and also I'm noticing a lack of power and also some hesitance when I accelerate, wonder if it's related....


----------



## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

Pop your hood and make sure the engine is still there


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

hentotheree said:


>


According to my wife.. that's the "torpedo" light.


----------



## Bezerker (Nov 12, 2013)

A/C is stuck in ECON mode  Thankfully, it's winter-ish here. I just hope it's not the compressor (seems that the 06-07 models had issues - but maybe 08 as well?). I had VAGCOM out recently but didn't see any codes.


----------



## DG7Projects (Jul 12, 2011)

BeeAlk said:


> What happened to you?


He was on a road trip and his engine ate a bolt. Motor died, car was totaled, so Ryan bought his second 3.2. Not as bad as our experiences. :laugh:


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

DG7Projects said:


> He was on a road trip and his engine ate a bolt. Motor died, car was totaled, so Ryan bought his second 3.2. Not as bad as our experiences. :laugh:


LOL, yeah I knew of that incident.. didn't realize he was referring to that. Ponto quit being a baby, you're not the only person who's had a foreign bolt fly through your crankcase


----------



## hentotheree (Dec 3, 2014)

louiekaps said:


> Pop your hood and make sure the engine is still there


haha will do, I think it's time I invest in a VAGCOM :banghead:


----------



## hentotheree (Dec 3, 2014)

after researching a few different scanners came up.... any recommendations?

anyone ever used a Autel Maxidiag Elite MD702 DS?


----------



## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

hentotheree said:


> after researching a few different scanners came up.... any recommendations?
> 
> anyone ever used a Autel Maxidiag Elite MD702 DS?


Get this, be done: http://store.ross-tech.com/shop/VCHUC.html


----------



## Bezerker (Nov 12, 2013)

TBomb said:


> Get this, be done: http://store.ross-tech.com/shop/VCHUC.html


x2. If you plan on owning a VW product for more than a year, it will practically pay for itself and it does a whole lot more than just scan for codes.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

TBomb said:


> Get this, be done: http://store.ross-tech.com/shop/VCHUC.html





Bezerker said:


> x2. If you plan on owning a VW product for more than a year, it will practically pay for itself and it does a whole lot more than just scan for codes.


I agree, x3.

However, if you don't want to shell out the money (it is a lot for a cable and interface), you can look into the free app Carista OBD2 (for both iOS and Android). All you would need to do is buy a ELM327 wireless OBD2 dongle ($15-40, depending on where you get one). 

The app along with the wireless OBD2 reader will allow you to read codes (in the VW language, which is important) as well as clear them. You also get the option of activating many (all?) the features possible with the Ross Tech cable (eg windows up/down with keyfob, etc). The UI of Carista is much, much simpler than Ross Tech VCDS, and it also has some safety features to prevent you from screwing up your coding (which is possible with VCDS if you are not careful).

That's my 2 Abes.


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

BeeAlk said:


> LOL, yeah I knew of that incident.. didn't realize he was referring to that. Ponto quit being a baby, you're not the only person who's had a foreign bolt fly through your crankcase


really? theres someone else like me?! haha

I miss that Lava grey and its flawless paint... unlike my brilliant black that looks like a nervous teenager breaking out before prom.


----------



## unoudid (Nov 20, 2012)

Guessing my thermostat is going out. The coolant temp gauge never went up on my way to work this morning.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

fixed one of the most annoying squeaking sounds ever.

it was a wrong aligned downpipe install, along with dry bushings on the exhaust hangers. 

adjusted the rear sleeve clamp that wasn't proper aligned with the rear section, and added some oil to the exhaust bushings. 

now the only noise left: the wastegate rattle. Iam getting part no. 06J145220A to see if it can do something or I will have to try turning the adjuster.


----------



## wishntoboutside (Mar 11, 2002)

Close to 1000 miles to 4 ski resorts. Mammoth, June, North Star and heavenly the car is a champ thru these crazy iced up roads, just needs a serious washing


----------



## vwlippy (Jul 17, 2001)

I keep dealing with an annoying fuel sender issue. 
I already replaced the pump/sender months ago, but now the new sender on the new pump is intermittently not working!


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

vwlippy said:


> I keep dealing with an annoying fuel sender issue.
> I already replaced the pump/sender months ago, but now the new sender on the new pump is intermittently not working!


Not sure what "sender" you at referring to, but there is a "thrust sensor" on the HPFP that gets flaky and causes fuel cuts. I believe there's a service bulletin on it since the dealer replaced mine for free.


----------



## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

MisterJJ said:


> Not sure what "sender" you at referring to, but there is a "thrust sensor" on the HPFP that gets flaky and causes fuel cuts. I believe there's a service bulletin on it since the dealer replaced mine for free.


Sender tells fuel gauge on instrument cluster how much gas is in the tank.


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

SilverSquirrel said:


> Sender tells fuel gauge on instrument cluster how much gas is in the tank.


O, IC.

OP: Did you replace with OEM or <gasp> eBay/Amazon part? When I've done in-tank fuel pumps I've gone with OEM after reading numerous complaints about China knock-offs on eBay/Amazon.


----------



## vwlippy (Jul 17, 2001)

MisterJJ said:


> O, IC.
> 
> OP: Did you replace with OEM or <gasp> eBay/Amazon part? When I've done in-tank fuel pumps I've gone with OEM after reading numerous complaints about China knock-offs on eBay/Amazon.


I bought a Meyle pump from ECS Tuning. 
Its a German company... but when I received the pump it was made in China like everything else.

ECS has a Viaco pump as well, not sure if its any better (or worse).


----------



## hentotheree (Dec 3, 2014)

TBomb said:


> Get this, be done: http://store.ross-tech.com/shop/VCHUC.html


oh sweet thanks man, I'm definitely going to check this out


----------



## hentotheree (Dec 3, 2014)

So my engine warning light has been on for about a week or so and the code P0300, PO3002, PO3003 have all came up which are all engine misfire codes.... fml

replaced the plugs and coils a few months ago because I thought that it would fix the problem and apparently it's still there and has gotten worse, any ideas? vacuum leak?


----------



## Evo V (Dec 29, 2010)

hentotheree said:


> So my engine warning light has been on for about a week or so and the code P0300, PO3002, PO3003 have all came up which are all engine misfire codes.... fml
> 
> replaced the plugs and coils a few months ago because I thought that it would fix the problem and apparently it's still there and has gotten worse, any ideas? vacuum leak?


How many miles on your car? I had something similar and end up cleaning the carbon buildup. This was with 98K miles on the car. I cave now 190K and have cleaned it 2 times.


----------



## hentotheree (Dec 3, 2014)

Evo V said:


> How many miles on your car? I had something similar and end up cleaning the carbon buildup. This was with 98K miles on the car. I cave now 190K and have cleaned it 2 times.


I'm right under 70k, is hard to clean up the carbon? I've never researched that before but I've heard it mentioned before on the forums I'm apart of.

I also got a vagcom for christmas 

the same 3 codes came up: P0300, P0302, P0303/$07E8

and what I've gathered is that it could be either an engine speed sensor, coil packs (which i just replaced in September) or this carbon build up you speak of.


----------



## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

hentotheree said:


> I'm right under 70k, is hard to clean up the carbon? I've never researched that before but I've heard it mentioned before on the forums I'm apart of.
> 
> I also got a vagcom for christmas
> 
> ...


What temperature values in Celsius are stored for the freeze frame conditions on each trouble code? If below 70 then the trouble codes were stored when the engine was cold. Carbon build up on the intake valves are the most common cause for cold start misfires. Aside from the codes, how does the engine run?


----------



## hentotheree (Dec 3, 2014)

The engine ran rough, as if I were pulling a load or something. Lack of power and also fuel efficiency. Last night I replaced the coils and also checked out the plugs and reset the gap and it ran a whole helluva lot better so I am hoping that was the issue....ran the vagcom and no codes came up thankfully


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

hentotheree said:


> The engine ran rough, as if I were pulling a load or something. Lack of power and also fuel efficiency. Last night I replaced the coils and also checked out the plugs and reset the gap and it ran a whole helluva lot better so I am hoping that was the issue....ran the vagcom and no codes came up thankfully


glad is back to normal. another good thing to do is to replace the fuel filter and run some brand injectors cleaner on the gas tank (Liqui Moly), this alone fixed mine that was running rough and throwing some running rich CEL. If don't wanna pour that in the gas tank just get the fuel filter replaced. :thumbup:


----------



## aye four (Jan 31, 2005)

Alarm will not set when I lock my doors. From what I gathered it is my rear passenger door latch that needs to be replaced. Looked it up on ECS and its $350 :screwy:


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

aye four said:


> Alarm will not set when I lock my doors. From what I gathered it is my rear passenger door latch that needs to be replaced. Looked it up on ECS and its $350 :screwy:


I took my door latch apart and cleaned out the electric motor. No more problem.


----------



## aye four (Jan 31, 2005)

MisterJJ said:


> I took my door latch apart and cleaned out the electric motor. No more problem.


I will definitely give that a try. Did you use an electronics part cleaning spray? or just cleaned it off with a rag.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

MisterJJ said:


> I took my door latch apart and cleaned out the electric motor. No more problem.


Mr. is that an easy task or more involved? just curious though


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

aye four said:


> I will definitely give that a try. Did you use an electronics part cleaning spray? or just cleaned it off with a rag.


Spray. I also took the motor apart and cleaned out the areas of the shaft between the brush contacts, which had a lot of debris, but that's really tricky if you aren't familiar with small electric motors. Probably blasting it with spray while spinning it a little would have worked. The motor brushes/contacts are on the end opposite the shaft, so spray into the holes on that end, spraying towards the center. Just be sure to put it together and connect it up and check if it works before re-assembling into the door. Hopefully that does the trick.

But... the motor is deep inside that sucker and there's a lot of screws, levers, and gears involved. You've got to pay attention to how it's put together as you are taking it apart.


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> Mr. is that an easy task or more involved? just curious though


Involved. But if it's broke it can't get more broke! Worst case is you have to buy a new one, like would have to do anyway if you didn't try.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

MisterJJ said:


> Involved. But if it's broke it can't get more broke! Worst case is you have to buy a new one, like would have to do anyway if you didn't try.


thx! Gonna take them apart for a clean if they start to act :beer:


----------



## gammerx (Nov 24, 2015)

Noticed my block off plate wasn't fully pressed against the valve cover. Left most screw's hole had been stripped. Replaced with ECS catch can setup today, and bought a #12 (OEM bolts are #10) screw and re-threaded the hole carefully. Seemed to get placed just fine, but after driving for 30 mins and checking, there's still an extremely light layer of oil on the underside of the PCV plate. Gonna replace the gasket and see if that helps, but otherwise there is practically no smoke out of the exhaust anymore!


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

aye four said:


> Alarm will not set when I lock my doors. From what I gathered it is my rear passenger door latch that needs to be replaced. Looked it up on ECS and its $350 :screwy:


So you're sure your doors lock, but the alarm doesn't? Could it be the horn?


----------



## 2.0T Dan (Aug 14, 2012)

Catch can hoses were leaking. I put some teflon on the fittings and the problem was solved. Drained it as well.


----------



## jack0131 (Mar 19, 2007)

from Dec 22nd to today, three things....driver side actuating motor, coolant temp sensor, wiper motor shot this morning.... 

2007 3.2Q

Sent from Asus Zenfone2


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

jack0131 said:


> from Dec 22nd to today, three things....driver side actuating motor, coolant temp sensor, wiper motor shot this morning....
> 
> 2007 3.2Q
> 
> Sent from Asus Zenfone2


HIDs installed?


----------



## jack0131 (Mar 19, 2007)

BeeAlk said:


> HIDs installed?


OEM xenon, error free hid fog for 6 years without any issues until now, I think the wiper motor just had to go.


BeeAlk said:


> HIDs installed?


OEM xenon, error free hid fog for 6 years

Sent from Asus Zenfone2


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

BeeAlk said:


> HIDs installed?


I've never had my wiper motor go and have been running HIDs (as fogs though) for years.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

just ordered a replacement keyfob. I will try to program it with vagcom when it arrives, if it does I then will try to swap the immo chip, I wonder if thats possibe with our keyfobs.


----------



## hentotheree (Dec 3, 2014)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> glad is back to normal. another good thing to do is to replace the fuel filter and run some brand injectors cleaner on the gas tank (Liqui Moly), this alone fixed mine that was running rough and throwing some running rich CEL. If don't wanna pour that in the gas tank just get the fuel filter replaced. :thumbup:



Ahh so Saturday night my car couldnt go above 45mph and/or 2k RPMS.... the check engine light came back on showing both cylinders 2 and 3 were misfiring so I dropped it off at a shop and i am hoping that there is a vacuum leak somewhere.... I have not replaced the fuel filter so it may be that as well. I'm going to call them now to see if they've had the chance to check me car out, wish me luck!


----------



## Miotke (May 16, 2010)

1) Rebuild of axles
2) Replaced brakes
3) Replaced both rear air bags...:facepalm:

It's been a long week. :laugh:


----------



## SHREKZGZ (Jan 23, 2016)

*839*

Hi to everyone from Spain.

It is my first time writing in this forum, I´m not sure this message has been upload to the proper topic.

I have several faults from my last checking with VAG-COM. I cheked after I changed my car radio. 

The car shows in the dashboard the fault of no connection with oil sensor, ESP button under the radio doesn´t work too.

My car has 30 fuse box close to the engine.

Would you mind to give some advice to repair it? I´m getting crazy with this electrical trouble. Thanks in advanced.


I copy VAG-COM the thext below.

Tuesday,19,January,2016,20:00:02:62939

Mileage: 149320km-92783mi 

Chassis Type: 8P (1K0)

VIN: WAUZZZ8P68A013065 Mileage: 149320km

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8P0-820-043.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 820 043 AG HW: 8P0 820 043 AG
Component: KlimavollautomatH19 0420 
Revision: 147513 
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 71E9334F685CC1966BD-8024

2 Faults Found:
00819 - High Pressure Sensor (G65) 
009 - Open or Short to Ground
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101001
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 4
Reset counter: 178
Mileage: 149318 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.01.18
Time: 19:51:53

Freeze Frame:
Temperature: 21.5°C
Voltage: 12.30 V
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Load: 9.0 %

01592 - Air Quality Sensor (G238) 
010 - Open or Short to Plus
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101010
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 3
Reset counter: 177
Mileage: 149318 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.01.18
Time: 19:51:54

Freeze Frame:
Temperature: -50.0°C


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 8P0-907-279-30-H.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 907 279 K HW: 8P0 907 279 K
Component: Bordnetz-SG H54 2501 
Revision: 00H54000 
Coding: 018C0F0190141000471600001600000000095E175C01000C000000000000
Shop #: WSC 06435 123 08192
VCID: 4581B79F0C543D36E75-8010

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 8P1 955 119 E Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB
Component: Wischer AU350 H01 0130 
Coding: 00062736
Shop #: WSC 06435 

2 Faults Found:
01259 - Fuel Pump Relay (J17) 
009 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101001
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 217
Mileage: 148883 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.01.01
Time: 11:15:00

Freeze Frame:
OFF
Voltage: 12.95 V
OFF
ON
OFF
OFF
OFF

00059 - Terminal 30 for Interior Lighting 
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101100
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 217
Mileage: 149318 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.01.18
Time: 20:14:00

Freeze Frame:
OFF
Voltage: 12.25 V
OFF
OFF
OFF
OFF
OFF

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8P0-920-xxx-17-MY8.clb
Part No SW: 8P0 920 931 F HW: 8P0 920 931 F
Component: KOMBIINSTR. VDO H20 0640 
Revision: D0H20001 Serial number: 2245G001003133
Coding: 0000108
Shop #: WSC 80093 222 69422
VCID: 3663C05341B2A6AE7EF-8063

2 Faults Found:
00562 - Sensor for Oil Level/Temperature (G266) 
010 - Open or Short to Plus
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101010
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 177
Mileage: 149318 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.01.18
Time: 19:52:52

00562 - Sensor for Oil Level/Temperature (G266) 
008 - Implausible Signal
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101000
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 177
Mileage: 149318 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.01.18
Time: 19:53:52​


----------



## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

SH****GZ said:


> Hi to everyone from Spain. Would you mind to give some advice to repair it? I´m getting crazy with this electrical trouble. Thanks in advanced.


Hello! 

I helped someone else with a similar problem I think in the past year. The wiring to their oil level sensor was damaged somehow and it caused its fuse to be blown. The fuse also supplied power to the refrigerant high pressure sensor and prevented proper operation of A/C. Since you have faults for both of those sensors it's a good idea to check your fuses.

I ran your VIN in Audi's online repair manual but I am unable to recieve information for cars outside my market, so I cannot look up wiring diagrams and tell you which fuses you need to check. Take a look at the wiring to the components with static trouble codes for damage; rodents like to chew on the wires to oil level thermal sensor. Good luck!


----------



## SHREKZGZ (Jan 23, 2016)

Audi_Mechanic said:


> Hello!
> 
> I helped someone else with a similar problem I think in the past year. The wiring to their oil level sensor was damaged somehow and it caused its fuse to be blown. The fuse also supplied power to the refrigerant high pressure sensor and prevented proper operation of A/C. Since you have faults for both of those sensors it's a good idea to check your fuses.


Thanks a lot, I am going to check the wire. How can I get electrical maps from my car?


----------



## ravohs (Jan 25, 2016)

First post.

Heater blower went. Replaced that. Now my temp gauge went so I'll be replacing the thermostat. Joined so I can get advice on mods and advice on where to buy parts in Edmonton Alberta.


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

ravohs said:


> First post.
> 
> Heater blower went. Replaced that. Now my temp gauge went so I'll be replacing the thermostat. Joined so I can get advice on mods and advice on where to buy parts in Edmonton Alberta.


Welcome! But first things first... CAM FOLLOWER!!!! What is the replacement status of yours?

As far as where to buy parts... I hear they sell stuff like that on the Internet these days.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

ravohs said:


> First post.
> 
> Heater blower went. Replaced that. Now my temp gauge went so I'll be replacing the thermostat. Joined so I can get advice on mods and advice on where to buy parts in Edmonton Alberta.


Good luck 'round these parts. Some of us don't take kindly to you Canadians.


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

BeeAlk said:


> Good luck 'round these parts. Some of us don't take kindly to you Canadians.


What?!? I love having Canadians around! It's like having a little brother that you can pick on and make fun of all the time and if they get too annoying you can just slap them in the face with your freedom!


----------



## ravohs (Jan 25, 2016)

MisterJJ said:


> Welcome! But first things first... CAM FOLLOWER!!!! What is the replacement status of yours?
> 
> As far as where to buy parts... I hear they sell stuff like that on the Internet these days.


No idea on the status of the cam follower. I'm new to the audi world. Picked up an 08 2.0 fsi. It has 140k km on it. All service was done at an audi dealership. Last service at 110k km. I don't have any experience working on vehicles but I've tackled everything on my sport bike with the help of YouTube. So I think the first thing I'm going to do is install a downpipe and get a tune.


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

ravohs said:


> First post.
> 
> Heater blower went. Replaced that. Now my temp gauge went so I'll be replacing the thermostat. Joined so I can get advice on mods and advice on where to buy parts in Edmonton Alberta.


Welcome fellow Edmontontian. 

Get in touch with Richard at Dubsport or Geoff at Southgate Audi.


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

MisterJJ said:


> What?!? I love having Canadians around! It's like having a little brother that you can pick on and make fun of all the time and if they get too annoying you can just slap them in the face with your freedom!


And ill just slap you in the face with a crippling health care bill


----------



## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Ponto said:


> And ill just slap you in the face with a crippling health care bill



False. If I need healthcare, I go to Canada, wait in line for four days, and then after they see me I tell them I'm an American and leave with, you know, my freedom.


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

npace said:


> False. If I need healthcare, I go to Canada, wait in line for four days, and then after they see me I tell them I'm an American and leave with, you know, my freedom.


And probably try to steal some of good beer too I presume. 

I mean I'm sorry, you go enjoy that freedom... Trump and Palin make such a great leadership pair.... :sly:


----------



## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Ponto said:


> And probably try to steal some of good beer too I presume.
> 
> I mean I'm sorry, you go enjoy that freedom... Trump and Palin make such a great leadership pair.... :sly:


Just got back from a drive....

But you're right, I would much rather have Justin Trudeau leading me....


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

npace said:


> Just got back from a drive....
> 
> But you're right, I would much rather have Pierre Trudeau leading me....


 

Sigh. He's right. 

Sent from my Igloo


----------



## SHREKZGZ (Jan 23, 2016)

Someone could help me??? I dont have any idea. What can be damaged? This is my vag-com.

_Tuesday,26,January,2016,16:48:23:62939
Mileage: 149340km-92795mi 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chassis Type: 8P (1K0)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 25 42 44 46 47 52 56 62 72

Mileage: 149340km/92795miles

01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
02-Auto Trans -- Status: Malfunction 0010
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: Malfunction 1010
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: Malfunction 1010
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
15-Airbags -- Status: Malfunction 0010
16-Steering wheel -- Status: Malfunction 0010
17-Instruments -- Status: Malfunction 0010
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: Malfunction 0010
25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: Malfunction 0010
44-Steering Assist -- Status: Malfunction 0010
46-Central Conv. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
47-Sound System -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
56-Radio -- Status: Malfunction 1010
62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine 

3 Faults Found:
28793 - No Communication with ABS Brake Control Module 
U0121 - 009 - - Intermittent - MIL ON
16897 - Incorrect Immobilizer Key 
P0513 - 008 - - Intermittent
28836 - No Communications with HVAC Control Module (J301) 
U0164 - 009 - - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans 

1 Fault Found:
01316 - ABS Control Module 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes 

1 Fault Found:
01309 - Power Steering Control Module (J500) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC 

2 Faults Found:
00819 - High Pressure Sensor (G65) 
009 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent 
01592 - Air Quality Sensor (G238) 
010 - Open or Short to Plus 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags 

1 Fault Found:
01316 - ABS Control Module 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel 

1 Fault Found:
00002 - Transmission Control Unit 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments 

2 Faults Found:
00562 - Sensor for Oil Level/Temperature (G266) 
010 - Open or Short to Plus 
00562 - Sensor for Oil Level/Temperature (G266) 
008 - Implausible Signal 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway 

5 Faults Found:
01304 - Radio 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
00381 - Databus Instrument Cluster 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
01316 - ABS Control Module 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent 
01320 - Control Module for Climatronic (J255) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent 
00470 - Combination comfort Databus in Single Wire 
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 42: Door Elect, Driver Labels: 8P0-959-801-MIN3.lbl
1 Fault Found:
01321 - Control Module for Airbags (J234) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 44: Steering Assist 
1 Fault Found:
00625 - Vehicle Speed Signal 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. 
1 Fault Found:
01320 - Control Module for Climatronic (J255) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 52: Door Elect, Pass. 
1 Fault Found:
01321 - Control Module for Airbags (J234) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent_


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

MisterJJ said:


> What?!? I love having Canadians around! It's like having a little brother that you can pick on and make fun of all the time and if they get too annoying you can just slap them in the face with your freedom!





ravohs said:


> No idea on the status of the cam follower. I'm new to the audi world. Picked up an 08 2.0 fsi. It has 140k km on it. All service was done at an audi dealership. Last service at 110k km. I don't have any experience working on vehicles but I've tackled everything on my sport bike with the help of YouTube. So I think the first thing I'm going to do is install a downpipe and get a tune.





Ponto said:


> Welcome fellow Edmontontian.
> 
> Get in touch with Richard at Dubsport or Geoff at Southgate Audi.





Ponto said:


> And ill just slap you in the face with a crippling health care bill





npace said:


> False. If I need healthcare, I go to Canada, wait in line for four days, and then after they see me I tell them I'm an American and leave with, you know, my freedom.





Ponto said:


> And probably try to steal some of good beer too I presume.
> 
> I mean I'm sorry, you go enjoy that freedom... Trump and Palin make such a great leadership pair.... :sly:





npace said:


> Just got back from a drive....
> 
> But you're right, I would much rather have Justin Trudeau leading me....





Ponto said:


> Sigh. He's right.
> 
> Sent from my Igloo


LOL. Didn't mean to spark a border war, but hey it's bringing activity back to the forum! :beer:


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

BeeAlk said:


> LOL. Didn't mean to spark a border war, but hey it's bringing activity back to the forum! :beer:


I'll take it lol. All in good fun anyways. 

Sent from my Igloo


----------



## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Ponto said:


> I'll take it lol. All in good fun anyways.
> 
> Sent from my Igloo


Yep. I would never go to Canada for healthcare. :laugh:

In all seriousness, the Canadians bring a much needed sense of levity to the forum. It wouldn't be the same without their technical questions that list Kilometers instead of miles and water temps in Celsius.


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

npace said:


> In all seriousness, the Canadians bring a much needed sense of levity to the forum. It wouldn't be the same without their technical questions that list Kilometers instead of miles and water temps in Celsius.


Don't forget the metric tachometer:


----------



## eh (Mar 4, 2003)

What freedoms do Americans enjoy that Canadians do not?


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

eh said:


> What freedoms do Americans enjoy that Canadians do not?


We have the freedom of HATE SPEECH! Ha, take that, Canada!


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

BeeAlk said:


> We have the freedom of HATE SPEECH! Ha, take that, Canada!


Um so do we... we're just not a$$holes. :laugh:


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

BeeAlk said:


> We have the freedom of HATE SPEECH! Ha, take that, Canada!


Restricting "hate speech" sounds like as a good thing, and most Canadians think it is a good thing. But the problem is that the Government gets to define what hate speech is.

Canada has a lot of wiggle-words regarding free speech, in general. So the government gets to make up rules that would not be constitutional in the U.S., although this has been bypassed recently and we are one supreme court justice away from getting the same thing as Canada.

Other things are; no specific right to bear arms and no right not to be re-tried for the same crime.


----------



## eh (Mar 4, 2003)

Freedom of speech is a fundamental right in Canada according to the Canadian Charter of Rights and Freedoms.

I don't want the _right_ to bear arms. I realize is a fundamental difference in belief between Americans and Canadians. I don't consider my freedom impaired because I can't walk down the street with a Desert Eagle.

Double jeopardy:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double_jeopardy#Canada


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

eh said:


> Freedom of speech is a fundamental right in Canada according to the Canadian Charter of Rights and Freedoms.


"While freedom of expression is a fundamental freedom, it is not absolute, but is subject to such “reasonable limits” as are “demonstrably justifiable in a free and democratic society,” pursuant to section 1 of the Charter".

http://ualawccsprod.srv.ualberta.ca/ccs/index.php/eh/518-freedom-of-expression


----------



## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

[URL="







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----------



## eh (Mar 4, 2003)

You left out this bit:



> Limitations on freedom of expression, such as obscenity and child pornography laws, hate propaganda laws, and the law of defamation, have been upheld by the Supreme Court of Canada as “reasonable limits” upon free expression.


Seems pretty reasonable to me.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Ponto said:


> Um so do we... we're just not a$$holes. :laugh:





MisterJJ said:


> Restricting "hate speech" sounds like as a good thing, and most Canadians think it is a good thing. But the problem is that the Government gets to define what hate speech is.
> 
> Canada has a lot of wiggle-words regarding free speech, in general. So the government gets to make up rules that would not be constitutional in the U.S., although this has been bypassed recently and we are one supreme court justice away from getting the same thing as Canada.
> 
> Other things are; no specific right to bear arms and no right not to be re-tried for the same crime.





eh said:


> Freedom of speech is a fundamental right in Canada according to the Canadian Charter of Rights and Freedoms.
> 
> I don't want the _right_ to bear arms. I realize is a fundamental difference in belief between Americans and Canadians. I don't consider my freedom impaired because I can't walk down the street with a Desert Eagle.
> 
> ...


This has all been in jest, I didn't think I would actually learn something here!

In all seriousness though, as far as the right to bear arms - doesn't Canada give the right to self defense but not specifically by guns? So it's open to interpretation? And, besides that, Canadians do not have the right to bear arms with the intent to _organize militias_, right?


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

eh said:


> Seems pretty reasonable to me..


And therein lies the fundamental difference. Whereas the Canadian viewpoint is "sounds reasonable", the traditional American viewpoint is "sounds reasonable now, but allows the government to determine what is reasonable, which can change at any time, so it is therefore not acceptable". However, due to the U.S. government near monopoly on education, younger Americans have come to believe the more Canadian view.

Regarding the "thread jack" comment... this is the A3 forum... NOBODY CARES! We revolted from our oppressors a long time ago and now enjoy the freedom to depart from the established thread topic. Stop being such a Canadian.


----------



## eh (Mar 4, 2003)

Canadians can own firearms. They have to be registered and hoops need to be jumped through. I'm not sure of the specifics because I've never looked into it. It's my understanding that it's pretty easy to get a license for a long gun, and much more difficult, but not impossible, to get restricted firearms like handguns. Again, never looked into it, because I live in a big city and don't hunt caribou for sustenance.


----------



## eh (Mar 4, 2003)

MisterJJ said:


> And therein lies the fundamental difference. Whereas the Canadian viewpoint is "sounds reasonable", the traditional American viewpoint is "sounds reasonable now, but allows the government to determine what is reasonable, which can change at any time, so it is therefore not acceptable". However, due to the U.S. government near monopoly on education, younger Americans have come to believe the more Canadian view.


I don't really see how our two systems are all that different. Post some child porn and claim freedom of expression. Threaten to kill someone and claim freedom of speech. The justice system will laugh at you.

It's the Supreme Court of Canada's job to strike down any law which violates the Charter. My understanding of US law is limited, but I think that's what your Supreme Court does as well.


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

eh said:


> I don't really see how our two systems are all that different.


Of course they are similar, since Canada copied US.


----------



## eh (Mar 4, 2003)

I need a worm on a hook emoji.


----------



## gammerx (Nov 24, 2015)

Narrowed down oil leak to the cam girdle sealant...PCV block off caused too much positive pressure and blew the green sealant that was used for the intake cam recall. Oil melted the timing cover so I gotta get one of those. Doing all the timing belt related stuff. Checked the valve cover since I had it off and it was cracked...well at least not much else can go wrong now :banghead:


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

gammerx said:


> Narrowed down oil leak to the cam girdle sealant...PCV block off caused too much positive pressure and blew the green sealant that was used for the intake cam recall. Oil melted the timing cover so I gotta get one of those. Doing all the timing belt related stuff. Checked the valve cover since I had it off and it was cracked...well at least not much else can go wrong now :banghead:


I have the pcv block off and IAm suspecting that there's too much pressure because all top end of the engine is sweating oil.

I will get a cc setup for this, before starting to replace the valve cover and maybe other things


----------



## gammerx (Nov 24, 2015)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> I have the pcv block off and IAm suspecting that there's too much pressure because all top end of the engine is sweating oil.
> 
> I will get a cc setup for this, before starting to replace the valve cover and maybe other things


I can sell you the CC I have if you want. Decided to just go back to stock PCV and not mess with that system anymore. Where are you leaking?


----------



## ravohs (Jan 25, 2016)

So should I be replacing my cam follower?


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

gammerx said:


> I can sell you the CC I have if you want. Decided to just go back to stock PCV and not mess with that system anymore. Where are you leaking?


yeah on top of the valve cover it has some oil "sweat", also the oil cap, the vaccum pump, and maybe the cam chain housing.
But the cc setup should relief some of the pressure? or maybe go back to stock pcv is the way to go, there some latest pcv valve revision.


----------



## gammerx (Nov 24, 2015)

ravohs said:


> So should I be replacing my cam follower?


Yes, check it for wear every other oil change. Typically around 20k miles is a good time to change it as preventative maintenance. 



2006_A3_2.0T said:


> yeah on top of the valve cover it has some oil "sweat", also the oil cap, the vaccum pump, and maybe the cam chain housing.
> But the cc setup should relief some of the pressure? or maybe go back to stock pcv is the way to go, there some latest pcv valve revision.


That doesn't sound to bad. My block off plate literally caused the cam girdle sealant to push out, and was squirting oil into the timing belt area. Lots of time and parts to fix everything that caused. CC should be fine for you then it does help with the pressure


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

gammerx said:


> CC should be fine for you then it does help with the pressure


pm'ed


----------



## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Wow, I missed the whole freedom argument, but I'll chime in with a little history for background.

The fundamental difference lies in our roots with the British government. When the American colonies were slapped with taxes to pay for a war Britain started with France, they revolted, which led to the British government cracking down. (Yes, this is an oversimplification, but it is the essence of the American Revolution). In 1776 we sent a big F U to Britain via the Declaration of Independence, and fought a war to guarantee our separation that lasted until 1783. 

Our Constitution, completed and ratified in 1787, was a rejection of British law. It gave Americans status as citizens, responsible for self governance, rather than status as subjects, with rights granted (but not given) by the crown. (Bonus points if anyone knows when Constitution day is. I put my flag out every year and always have neighbors ask why the day is significant --- no, I didn't do it while I lived in Europe.)

Canada, on the other hand, remained part of the British Empire until 1982. You read that right. Now before you Canadians go all 1867 on me, that was the year Canada was allowed to self-governance as a part of the British Empire. The Canada Act of 1982 actually separated it. So most of the Canadians in this forum were born as British subjects, but if not their parents were. 

So, as MrJJ pointed out, there is a fundamental difference in the way Americans view their rights vs the way Canadians do. Is this true for every single person in each country? No. But the basis of our relationship as citizens with government has been radically different for centuries. 

So to sum it up, that is how/why we view our systems as different. Even if you didn't know this, as an American, you probably grew up with a greater distrust of government that is rooted in this history. Our oath of citizenship, and for those who serve under an oath of office, is to the Constitution. The Canadian oath of citizenship is to the monarchy.

Does that answer your question, eh?


----------



## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Nice history lesson. I have to admit, being born in the US, I never really looked too much into our history. Also, I feel we aren't taught enough about our history in school to pay attention and care about how things are the way they are. 🍺


----------



## eh (Mar 4, 2003)

That makes me less "free" than an American _today_ because...?


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

eh said:


> That makes me less "free" than an American _today_ because...?


It doesn't is what he is getting at... kinda. 

America just really prides itself on Freedom, like its the only one who has it and can force it down the throats of anyone who they think needs freedom***



***disclaimer, this is a sarcastic stereotypical view. Not representative of the entire truth or what I actually believe. 


Also.

Nothing is wrong with my A3, accept the future wifey is driving it... thats a problem. lol


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Ponto said:


> Nothing is wrong with my A3, accept the future wifey is driving it... thats a problem. lol


Has she "curbed" the rims yet? They should sell bolt on rim protectors that you can install for when you want to allow a female to drive your car.

Now we find out if any females are lurking here.


----------



## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

MisterJJ said:


> Has she "curbed" the rims yet? They should sell bolt on rim protectors that you can install for when you want to allow a female to drive your car.
> 
> Now we find out if any females are lurking here.


http://wheelbands.com/


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

BeeAlk said:


> http://wheelbands.com/


That wouldn't last a day. I'm thinking solid metal. There could be different grades depending on how long you would be loaning your car to the female:
1 day = 1/8" thick aluminum
1 week = 1/8" thick steel
1 month = 1/4" thick steel
Indefinite = 1/2" thick hardened tool steel with built in wear sensors


----------



## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

MisterJJ said:


> Has she "curbed" the rims yet? They should sell bolt on rim protectors that you can install for when you want to allow a female to drive your car.
> 
> Now we find out if any females are lurking here.


nah she is actually pretty good. Plus its got the winters on.


----------



## Evo V (Dec 29, 2010)

Few years ago I installed brand new wheels on my Jetta. My ex took it to go meet with friends and came back 3 hrs later with one of the rims bent and the other one curbed. When I asked she said: "what curb? I didn't see anything.":facepalm:


----------



## mypixeladdiction (Dec 1, 2011)

Yesterday just after a right turn and pressing the gas the car stuttered. Seemed like it was misfiring and about to stall. EPC and engine light came on. Pulled over and looked around, no weird noises or signs of a leak. Turned it off and on and the engine light was still on. Limped back home trying to be very gentle on the accelerator. Had it stutter like it was going to stall a couple times.

Should have a VAGCOM here tomorrow to check the codes. Just going to let it sit until then. From the research I did it sounds like it is likely something minor, I certainly hope so.


----------



## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

I would go out and push down on all the coilpacks. Mine have slightly popped up a few times which has caused misfires. I will never understand why a manufacturer would not use a hold down bolt for each coilpack. Otherwise please update with what codes you have.


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

louiekaps said:


> I would go out and push down on all the coilpacks. Mine have slightly popped up a few times which has caused misfires. I will never understand why a manufacturer would not use a hold down bolt for each coilpack. Otherwise please update with what codes you have.


My VW 1.8t went through coil packs like a Canadian goes through maple syrup. Then I replaced them with the Audi bolt-down coil packs and never had a single one fail in over 100k miles.


----------



## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

I work for Chrysler and see very few coilpack failures, they are all bolted down. Then I look at mk6 gti forums and this forum for the fsi and tsi engine and coilpack failure is hands down the most common failure. Can't believe the rely on a tight fit to hold the thing down. So stupid.


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

But I must say that the fit of the coil packs in my FSI is very tight. They are nearly impossible to remove by hand so I very carefully pry them up with a screwdriver and pry block. They have also lasted over 100k miles since the original ones were replaced under warranty.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

I had random misfires until.... installed a set of red coils and NGK spark plugs. never had misfires again, its been more than a year now. touching wood lol


----------



## mypixeladdiction (Dec 1, 2011)

Alright. It was showing no fault codes, engine light was still on. Took it for a spin around the block, no misfires or anything. Came back home checked one more time and no fault codes. Took a look at the coil packs and the far right one was definitely sticking up about 1/8 - 1/4 or so of an inch more than the rest. Gave em all a good press down to make sure they were all tight (far right one was definitely lose compared to the rest).


----------



## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

mypixeladdiction said:


> Alright. It was showing no fault codes, engine light was still on. Took it for a spin around the block, no misfires or anything. Came back home checked one more time and no fault codes. Took a look at the coil packs and the far right one was definitely sticking up about 1/8 - 1/4 or so of an inch more than the rest. Gave em all a good press down to make sure they were all tight (far right one was definitely lose compared to the rest).


There is a sure fire way to permanently solve this problem...get a 3.2


----------



## mypixeladdiction (Dec 1, 2011)

Well I took it out on a main street. Soon as I got out there and on it the issue came back although this time it doesn't feel like it's going to die, it just drives/sounds really bad. Both EPC and engine light on - although the tool I have says no errors. Wonder if the VAGCOM I'm using isn't any good. https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Yaw/ES9950/ - Using that since I don't have windows and just needed something to quickly check codes.


----------



## mypixeladdiction (Dec 1, 2011)

P3cars gauge just showed code 0303 - going to go check again with the v-checker.. wtf

update: v-chicker still wasn't showing anything. P3 was finally showing 0303 every start. Rearranged the coils, cleared codes, went for another spin to get the issue again. Showing 0302 now. Going to run to the shop now to get some red coils. 

06E905115E is the part number?


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Tcardio said:


> There is a sure fire way to permanently solve this problem...get a 3.2


I can buy a lot of coil packs and cam followers with the gas savings of my 2.0t and I'm chipped so I'll still beat the pants off your 3.2. 

On topic... I've noticed some weird HVAC behavior. It's been relatively chilly here (40's, F). If I let the car idle and set the temp controls to HI, there will be cool air blowing. As soon as I bump the throttle up a little I will get warm air, but when I drop back to idle, it's cool again, even with recirc on. :screwy:


----------



## mypixeladdiction (Dec 1, 2011)

Red R8 coils put in, car is running great.


----------



## gammerx (Nov 24, 2015)

But turbo


----------



## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

1,700 miles to Daytona and back in 60 hours without a single problem. And then a Baltimore pothole takes out my tire and wheel.










Dat tuck tho.


----------



## AngryGiraffe (Sep 21, 2014)

Epc light came on today. This is the second time(last time it was mid November) with the same codes P2138 and 01314. 

Both times were after is had snowed quite a bit and then warmed up rapidly. The roads are wet with a combo of sand and Mag Chloride(road de-icer) In November I cleared the codes and washed/cleaned the interior. The P2138 I'm not to worried about. Probably just some crud built up around the peddle and inside of the connector. Wondering if the 01314 is a bad ABS sensor. Anyone else ever run into either of these? Other than the light coming on the car seems to be running fine.


----------



## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

For some dam> reason, after getting my dsg clutch packs replaced and valves cleaned, I now getting slightly over 30mpg :banghead:  

My commute increased from 30 to 65 miles, round-trip, probably helps  

:laugh:


:wave:


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Rear wiper felt neglected so it decides it's going to do its own thing... Randomly starts running, then randomly stops wherever it damn well pleases.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

Anybody knows how to remove the rear headliner section? the one just next to the 3rd brake light, where those antenna amps are hidden?

I wanna remove it and have a look in there, my radio reception went from bad to crapy this summer :wave:


----------



## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

What is the name of the module that controls taillights in these cars and where is it physically located within the car? I have a single brake light out. The bulb is fine, the taillight housing is fine, the wiring at the taillight is fine. I've swapped from LED to OEM and back (including re-coding each time) and get the same fault every time. Short of chasing that single wire through the whole chassis (which I REEAAAALLLY don't want to do), I'm not sure what else to try other than swapping the control module and pray that it's ****ed up but not causing any other issues or producing a fault code (is that even possible?). I don't know what else to try and I really want to resolve this.

So ya. Brake light out, and I'm stumped. Sometimes I feel like I have no idea how to wrench.


----------



## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

I feel for you Rob :banghead:

First time this issue happened to me, oh easy pesie, I will just replace the brake light and be fine. But, no, I find out the the brake light out warning means that any of the three light bulbs could be out. This time it ended up being the turn signal bulb, why does the message say so 

The second time, the same issue, but on the opposite side, the hatch bulb was out.

The third time, nothing would work, and ended up swapping out the tan colored bulb holders for new black holders, problems solved so far 

My guess the the lighter colored holders do not dissipate heat as well as the black ones, but my bigger thought is, why are more people not having the same problem if the holders are the issue??? :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:


:wave:


----------



## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

azoceanblue said:


> The third time, nothing would work, and ended up swapping out the tan colored bulb holders for new black holders, problems solved so far
> 
> My guess the the lighter colored holders do not dissipate heat as well as the black ones, but my bigger thought is, why are more people not having the same problem if the holders are the issue??? :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
> 
> ...


You're talking about the bulb "tray" that the bulbs twist-lock into? Same piece that the wire harness clips into? I think mine are black, and I'm pretty sure that's not the issue, since I swapped from LED to incandescent and back and had the same issue in each orientation. But that's weird. It's solid metal strips that connect from the pin connector to the bulb, it would be pretty obvious if it was broken I think, and that would take some serious trauma or corrosion.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

a couple of days ago a brake bulb went. Ive been riding with it, but I Will swap the bulb and see if it fixes. hope is not the same


----------



## vetaldj (Dec 28, 2011)

RPM needle jumps like a crazy after oil change.

All back lights are out (as per instrument cluster).

Good enough to keep it parked and use another car for commute.


----------



## vetaldj (Dec 28, 2011)

azoceanblue said:


> I feel for you Rob :banghead:
> 
> First time this issue happened to me, oh easy pesie, I will just replace the brake light and be fine. But, no, I find out the the brake light out warning means that any of the three light bulbs could be out. This time it ended up being the turn signal bulb, why does the message say so
> 
> ...


Have same problem, it shows whole lot of bulbs are out... First will put new bulbs, will be here tomorrow and then will proceed with holder looks like. 
Have tan looking holder and it already melted in few places for hatch lamps as well as on one fender mounted light.


----------



## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

How does the bulb holder melt? It must be overpowering somehow and not blowing the fuse? Or you had a car fire you neglected to mention.


----------



## vetaldj (Dec 28, 2011)

I've got this car with that, have no idea what happen but I did notice that one bulb was broken in place and holder around it melted a bit, enough to make bulb change a real challenge.


----------



## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

WEIRD!

Hopefully you get it sorted. Unfortunately, I think my issue is still unique and as such I have no idea where to look. Contemplating dealership, but I'm really reluctant.


----------



## thomas.2345 (Mar 19, 2016)

Front passenger door lock module has failed. Found a new Chinese replacement on eBay for a fourth the cost of Audi. Just need a good dyi to replace. Don't want to damage anything. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk


----------



## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

thomas.2345 said:


> Front passenger door lock module has failed. Found a new Chinese replacement on eBay for a fourth the cost of Audi. Just need a good dyi to replace. Don't want to damage anything. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
> 
> Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk


lock mechanism or door control module?


----------



## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

mypixeladdiction said:


> Yesterday just after a right turn and pressing the gas the car stuttered. Seemed like it was misfiring and about to stall. EPC and engine light came on. Pulled over and looked around, no weird noises or signs of a leak. Turned it off and on and the engine light was still on. Limped back home trying to be very gentle on the accelerator. Had it stutter like it was going to stall a couple times.
> 
> Should have a VAGCOM here tomorrow to check the codes. Just going to let it sit until then. From the research I did it sounds like it is likely something minor, I certainly hope so.


I bet its a ignition coil


----------



## mypixeladdiction (Dec 1, 2011)

GvFx said:


> I bet its a ignition coil


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## bobbeck (Jan 4, 2001)

@ 216,235 miles I have developed an intermittent problem with the remote fob not unlocking the driver side door. Key works fine. Looks like a fun fix when it finally takes a dump.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

bobbeck said:


> @ 216,235 miles I have developed an intermittent problem with the remote fob not unlocking the driver side door. Key works fine. Looks like a fun fix when it finally takes a dump.


could be the door controller or the latch or the CCM? electrical gremlins are some pita

las year I spent several months without remote control because of a 10 years old keyfob going kaput  couldn't belive it lasted that long lol 
Replaced it and all good.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

bobbeck said:


> @ 216,235 miles I have developed an intermittent problem with the remote fob not unlocking the driver side door. Key works fine. Looks like a fun fix when it finally takes a dump.


This may be silly, but have you tried replacing the battery? Also, mine occasionally does this and I have noticed that the door on the fob that holds the battery in place is not as tight fitting as it once was. I kind of wonder if it makes a difference to squeeze that door on the fob shut as you attempt to unlock the car, ensuring the battery is making good contact in the remote.


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## bobbeck (Jan 4, 2001)

I changed it about 6 months ago, I'm guessing a microswitch or solenoid is on its way. It's intermittent.


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## Bigo1087 (Feb 19, 2010)

Rob Cote said:


> How does the bulb holder melt? It must be overpowering somehow and not blowing the fuse? Or you had a car fire you neglected to mention.


It's a design flaw, common issue, the older ones with tan melt.there some threads online about it. The revised black ones don't melt


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Rob Cote said:


> How does the bulb holder melt? It must be overpowering somehow and not blowing the fuse? Or you had a car fire you neglected to mention.





Bigo1087 said:


> It's a design flaw, common issue, the older ones with tan melt.there some threads online about it. The revised black ones don't melt


Yep. My original bulb housings from my 06 wouldn't melt, but the lead contacts on the bulbs would get hot enough to melt out! The housing themselves looked charred. After I swapped to the Euro LEDs, no more melting.


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## Bigo1087 (Feb 19, 2010)

Technically that's a RECALL issue, because it affects a lighting system component. As with the bad fuse box and fuse issue that some of us share with the tiguan (which was recalled).

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Bigo1087 said:


> Technically that's a RECALL issue, because it affects a lighting system component. As with the bad fuse box and fuse issue that some of us share with the tiguan (which was recalled).
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


Are you saying it _should_ be a recall issue, or _is_ a recall? Running my VIN gives zero recalls for this.


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## Bigo1087 (Feb 19, 2010)

BeeAlk said:


> Are you saying it _should_ be a recall issue, or _is_ a recall? Running my VIN gives zero recalls for this.


Sorry let me clarify. It should be a RECALL., becuase it relates to lighting system, which can cause "dangerous conditions", when on the road. That's how the NHTSA, chooses what to make mandatory recalls.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


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## jaehee (Jul 2, 2015)

Replaced fog light bulbs. I have a 2007. They are H7, not H11 like so many databases suggest... maybe it was switched to H11s after 2008.5?

I noticed that the gasket in the bulb housing is looking a little tired, can't seem to find any for sale online... has anyone else replaced the gasket?

Thanks!


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

jaehee said:


> Replaced fog light bulbs. I have a 2007. They are H7, not H11 like so many databases suggest... maybe it was switched to H11s after 2008.5?
> 
> I noticed that the gasket in the bulb housing is looking a little tired, can't seem to find any for sale online... has anyone else replaced the gasket?
> 
> Thanks!


Actually, it depends on if you have a Premium or S-Line trim package as the fog lights are different between the two. Premium = H7, S-Line = H11. For what it's worth, the fog lights in the Premium bumper are much better than the ones in the S-Line, although the S-Line looks worlds better. Go figure...


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## jaehee (Jul 2, 2015)

You're right, S Line fogs are cleaner looking, but seems like you have to access the bulb from underneath. The Premium cover has the tabs in the front so they can be pulled straight out.


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## jaehee (Jul 2, 2015)

Started replacing the fuel filter, found out the top of the screw that closes the housing is stripped. Looks like I might be able to free it with the rubber band trick. Started raining so I'll get back to it later.

Has this happened to anyone else out there, and do you remember the size of the screw? I have a hardware store within walking distance so I can report back if I can free the damn thing.

And on that note, how often do you change out the filter? Have a great weekend everyone


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## quietA3guy (Oct 12, 2007)

The screw head on my fuel filter clamp is also corroded/stripped. I looked it up and there is no part number for it. My next step was to go to the dealer and see if they had anything. If you figure out the size please post it, I've been putting this off for months.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

I didn't have that problem when I changed mine, but Home Depot has thread gauges or whatever they're called where they sell screws and bolts. You should just be able to take it there and check the size.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

jaehee said:


> You're right, S Line fogs are cleaner looking, but seems like you have to access the bulb from underneath. The Premium cover has the tabs in the front so they can be pulled straight out.


Eh, I more so meant the S-Line bumper as a whole is better looking than the Premium. I believe on either one you can pull the fog light surround off to get to the back of the fog light.


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## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

I'm not exactly sure what's wrong, but something is. Last night as I was driving home from Philly, and about ten minutes into the drive if I would let go of the gas or idle, there was a high pitched squeal, but stopped and hasn't done it since, but now when idling, the rpms will spike to around 2k then drop to 700ish. 

It's kind of weird though because I stopped at one light, did that up and down idling. Stop at another light, doesn't do it, just sits a little over 1k, pull into work and does it again. 

Typically on a cold morning when I start it, it will idle around 1200 for about ten seconds then fall to around 800.

Anyone run into this before?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

justagirlandhercar said:


> I'm not exactly sure what's wrong, but something is. Last night as I was driving home from Philly, and about ten minutes into the drive if I would let go of the gas or idle, there was a high pitched squeal, but stopped and hasn't done it since, but now when idling, the rpms will spike to around 2k then drop to 700ish.
> 
> It's kind of weird though because I stopped at one light, did that up and down idling. Stop at another light, doesn't do it, just sits a little over 1k, pull into work and does it again.
> 
> ...


Your PCV is probably shot.


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

PCV or Evap valve not closing and opening correctly.


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

HELP!

My Alarm indicator light on the dash does not go out. 

The alarm does not chirp when I lock the doors. 

I suspect lift gate/hatch locking mechanism install from my accident. 

Question: With the alarm indicator light staying on, will the light drain my battery?

Thanks :beer:


:wave:


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

Self-crisis adverted, went back a few minutes later, and the alarm indicator light is now blinking. 

Will find out later if I hear the alarm chirp. 


:wave:


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

No alarm chirp.

I tried a search for the hatch lock sensor, but could not find any help.

Can anyone tell me where the hatch lock sensor is located?

I'll add this item to my accident repair-lack of repair-list that I sent my insurance company yesterday 

But, I want to see if it is something as simple as the body shop did not connect(?) the sensor wire tight/correctly, and a nonce like me can make a quick fix.

Thanks :beer:

:wave:


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

It is the passenger rear door lock.

Had the drivers door lock replaced in May of 2014.

A 50% failure rate :banghead:

Working with Audi to get the passenger door lock covered 


:wave:


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

There is a VCDS setting for alarm chirp. You might look into that.


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

The chirp is back? Sometimes, the passenger door lock spins and the door will not open. One time it did open and the chirp came back. I set the drivers info display to only open the driver door. So far so good

Spent allot money recently, would like to either get Audi to pay for it or wait for my 95k service (or do a search and finally do something myself :/) :beer:


:wave:


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## jaehee (Jul 2, 2015)

*Fuel filter clamp screw*

quietA3guy, sorry it took awhile to get this back on the forum, hope this helps. The screw ended up being a simple #10 screw with a cup washer. It had corroded together over the years.

I sprayed wd-40 onto the screw (it peeks out the other side) and let it sit for about 5 minutes. Also sprayed a little bit onto the head and brushed off some of the corroded material. That allowed me to get a better grip and ease it out.

I could tell the filter had never been replaced since the housing still had that plastic tab I had to snip off next to where the screw goes.

I got a #10 stainless sheet metal screw with a cup washer (I forget what size exactly), and it fit perfectly.



















I replaced it as I thought I could hear the fuel pump buzzing, but the buzzing it still there.

It sounds like it's coming from rear right, an electrical buzzing sound that seems to correspond to applying the gas but also to hitting slight bumbs and vibrations on the road. Usually goes away as I'm applying breaks. Doesn't buzz when stopped. Can't get it to make the sound when in neutral and revving engine.

Any thoughts?


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## jaehee (Jul 2, 2015)

Meant to add on that the buzzing could still be the in-tank fuel pump, but wanted to see what we thought. Anyone else replace the pump because noise could be heard in the cabin? If so, how would you characterize the sound?

Thanks in advance for any advice!


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## sergecur99 (Sep 17, 2005)

Battery replaced yesterday. The engine starts were getting to the limit of almost not turning over.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

azoceanblue said:


> The chirp is back? Sometimes, the passenger door lock spins and the door will not open. One time it did open and the chirp came back. I set the drivers info display to only open the driver door. So far so good
> 
> Spent allot money recently, would like to either get Audi to pay for it or wait for my 95k service (or do a search and finally do something myself :/) :beer:
> 
> ...


you wont get a chirp if the one of the lock modules has a fault. check fault with vcds and clear the fault.


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

I don't have a vag-com.

This door lock has been making weird noises for years, maybe since I purchased the 3. The door lock has had several courtesy inspections by the dealer, with the response, nothing found. (and of course, not one of my service invoice's lists a question from me asking them to check this door lock) 

I still have chirp with my fob just opening the driver's door versus all four, so hopefully I can make it till I convince Audi to pay for it :sly:


:wave:


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Right rear door now locks 50% of the time, and the hatch must be pulled up while pressing the fob button to release. . .:facepalm:


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

It's sold...


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

1st gear is hard to shift into, reverse is hard to get into... clutch was replaced less than a year ago... :/ Thinking about just selling...


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## gammerx (Nov 24, 2015)

I looked at it.


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## clashofhope (Sep 9, 2011)

Sad face...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)




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## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

Oh that hurts my heart!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Bezerker (Nov 12, 2013)

Underbody lining on my driver's side is shot.


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## Fellow Gaucho (Aug 3, 2011)

sergecur99 said:


> Battery replaced yesterday. The engine starts were getting to the limit of almost not turning over.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk


This happened last week for me. I didn't realize how fast the battery drops off though. In the morning to work and it took a little longer to turn and start. Then at lunch, didn't crank. Dropped off a cliff.


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## cupboy (Sep 3, 2006)

*driver window motor gone bad*

How can this be? It went from working fine to not working at all. Must be some reason. Maybe whatever stops the motor when the window is all the way up or all the way down didn't stop the motor and it burned out? $617 parts & labor. And of course it has to be the driver window, not any of the passenger windows.

Saw a couple of e-tron A3 hatchbacks while I was at the dealership. Both already sold. FWD though.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Are you sure it's the motor? These cars are notorious for window regulators to fail. I've replaced two on mine and pretty soon will need a 3rd. I'm not sure I've heard of motors burning up though.


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## Bigo1087 (Feb 19, 2010)

Finally attempted to install my stronic knb, twisted the plastic rod, and broke off in 2 pieces when puting the knob on.

currently searching for a shift mechanicsm unit that is already in the correct orientatation.


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...lace(upgrade-a3-dsg-stronic)-shifter-assembly

Looks like 2011/2012 A3 had the updated stronic shifter, and thus 5k1713025A is the part number for the shifter assembly?


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> Are you sure it's the motor? These cars are notorious for window regulators to fail. I've replaced two on mine and pretty soon will need a 3rd. I'm not sure I've heard of motors burning up though.


Didn't now that was a thing. my windows are fine after 180k miles, but the chinnese windows switch driver side that I bought for cheap locally just teared apart and it needs replacement, gotta get one of those famiry purshase oem switches


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## cupboy (Sep 3, 2006)

BeeAlk said:


> Are you sure it's the motor? These cars are notorious for window regulators to fail. I've replaced two on mine and pretty soon will need a 3rd. I'm not sure I've heard of motors burning up though.


Seems odd to me too. I even purchased a window regulator in advance of taking it in for service. My best guess is that some snow fell on the switch and shorted out the motor somehow. That seems to be when the window quit working.

Remember back when power windows were OPTIONAL? Who really needs this junk?


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

I may have found the source of my electrical issues (lights dimming momentarily when I touch the brakes).




















I'm almost positive it's the line that runs to the alternator. It's the purple 200 amp line.

I tried searching for the part number but I can't figure out what the hell I need. Anyone know if I could just run my own line? Not sure if anything else branches off from there..


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## fkdlol (May 25, 2016)

*Epc / cel 2010 a3 8p*

Three days ago I give it gas to pass someone in my 2010 A3 8P (stage one / intake) on 95, boom CEL flashes / EPC kicks in and it runs like crap (as usual) until I take it in (I don't normally try to work these out beyond attempting to reset it). Ignition coil, no big deal, shop fixes it and I fork over a few hundred for that and a service while it's in. So I get it back yesterday, this morning I go to accelerate from a stop sign and BOOM! Happens again...it was a moderate acceleration, I wouldn't call it a hard one. I know this could be a number of things, but what are the chances all my coils and spark plugs are just going bad? May have them replace everything, car just hit 63k miles. Anyone have a similar experience?


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## skotti (Sep 27, 2005)

fkdlol said:


> Three days ago I give it gas to pass someone in my 2010 A3 8P (stage one / intake) on 95, boom CEL flashes / EPC kicks in and it runs like crap (as usual) until I take it in (I don't normally try to work these out beyond attempting to reset it). Ignition coil, no big deal, shop fixes it and I fork over a few hundred for that and a service while it's in. So I get it back yesterday, this morning I go to accelerate from a stop sign and BOOM! Happens again...it was a moderate acceleration, I wouldn't call it a hard one. I know this could be a number of things, but what are the chances all my coils and spark plugs are just going bad? May have them replace everything, car just hit 63k miles. Anyone have a similar experience?


I had 2 coil packs go at the same time. :screwy:
So I'd say no!


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

BeeAlk said:


> I may have found the source of my electrical issues (lights dimming momentarily when I touch the brakes).
> 
> 
> I'm almost positive it's the line that runs to the alternator. It's the purple 200 amp line.
> ...


Good find. can't help with the part number but I will check mine now to see in what condition it is.


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## cupboy (Sep 3, 2006)

fkdlol said:


> Three days ago I give it gas to pass someone in my 2010 A3 8P (stage one / intake) on 95, boom CEL flashes / EPC kicks in and it runs like crap (as usual) until I take it in (I don't normally try to work these out beyond attempting to reset it). Ignition coil, no big deal, shop fixes it and I fork over a few hundred for that and a service while it's in. So I get it back yesterday, this morning I go to accelerate from a stop sign and BOOM! Happens again...it was a moderate acceleration, I wouldn't call it a hard one. I know this could be a number of things, but what are the chances all my coils and spark plugs are just going bad? May have them replace everything, car just hit 63k miles. Anyone have a similar experience?


Could be the connectors to the coils aren't plugged in tight enough. I had that problem a couple of days ago and found a somewhat lose one. Hope that fixes it. I cleared the engine light but haven't driven it much since.

Now I need a window motor. Dealer thinks they are worth around $450 or so. I would like a better price. There are funner things to spend $450 on.


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## AngryGiraffe (Sep 21, 2014)

So right now the car sits in the garage Monday-Friday for the rest of this month for fear of all the crazy hail storms we get in Colorado in the late spring/early summer. Plus biking to work is always fun So Friday night I went for a ride in the car and when I shifted(DSG) from first into second I heard a loud thunk! It almost sounds like the auto lock but it clearly came from under the vehicle. It didn't do this in any other gears and didn't do it ever again over the weekend which I drove it quite a bit and was getting on it a bunch on Saturday. Was wondering if maybe the DGS fluid hadn't warmed up yet or maybe if it's the subframe bolts/bushings are possibly going bad. Anyone else ever have this happen to their car?


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## shaner3721 (Jul 6, 2011)

Outer passenger side led tail light is out... Although it comes on for a few seconds when I hit the unlock button. Thinking the resistor maybe???


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

AngryGiraffe said:


> So right now the car sits in the garage Monday-Friday for the rest of this month for fear of all the crazy hail storms we get in Colorado in the late spring/early summer. Plus biking to work is always fun So Friday night I went for a ride in the car and when I shifted(DSG) from first into second I heard a loud thunk! It almost sounds like the auto lock but it clearly came from under the vehicle. It didn't do this in any other gears and didn't do it ever again over the weekend which I drove it quite a bit and was getting on it a bunch on Saturday. Was wondering if maybe the DGS fluid hadn't warmed up yet or maybe if it's the subframe bolts/bushings are possibly going bad. Anyone else ever have this happen to their car?


Hey mine does all those big clunks and things like it just releases the clutch at once.
But only when cold,while exit the condo on early mornings.


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## gammerx (Nov 24, 2015)

I can her a slight ticking under load when driving the car from my left side. I'm guessing its the cam chain tensioner? It was about time I replaced the follower so I did that and nothing changed. It's very slight and doesn't happen all the time. Would be hard to capture on video but what to see what yall think


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## bitzer (May 30, 2006)

Took the car in for an oil change today, turns out my oil pan is weeping and I have 2% moisture in my brake lines, and missing some clips that hold the fire blanket behind the engine. Only 45,000 km's, guess its time to burn it like a nest of spiders! Hahaha


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

bitzer said:


> Took the car in for an oil change today, turns out my oil pan is weeping and I have 2% moisture in my brake lines, and missing some clips that hold the fire blanket behind the engine. Only 45,000 km's, guess its time to burn it like a nest of spiders! Hahaha


And I thought Brent was the hypochondriac of the A3 world.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

bitzer said:


> Took the car in for an oil change today, turns out my oil pan is weeping and I have 2% moisture in my brake lines, and missing some clips that hold the fire blanket behind the engine. Only 45,000 km's, guess its time to burn it like a nest of spiders! Hahaha


How do they even measure 2% "moisture" in your brake lines/fluid? That doesn't seem like that much considering brake fluid is hygroscopic and will eventually end up pulling in moisture. That's why you flush and bleed with new fluid every 3 years (at the longest!) or every year or so if you want to stay on top of it.

How is your oil pan weeping? Is oil literally weeping through the pores of the metal? Is the drain plug stripped, or an old crush washer re-used on it? Sounds like some :screwy: to me.

As far as the clips go...just go to your dealer and ask for the parts, spend the $10 and put them back on yourself.

If those few things have you deterred from owning the car, you probably should have bought an Accord instead of an Audi. Just saying


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

Think positive. You have 98% brake fluid. 
Winning!


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## bitzer (May 30, 2006)

Ponto said:


> And I thought Brent was the hypochondriac of the A3 world.


Not as bad as Brent, I remember he literally thought something was wrong with his car just looking at it during one of the few coffee and cars meet ups I went too before he moved.  I just mention things to you as they come up and some how that makes me a hypochondriac.




TBomb said:


> How do they even measure 2% "moisture" in your brake lines/fluid? That doesn't seem like that much considering brake fluid is hygroscopic and will eventually end up pulling in moisture. That's why you flush and bleed with new fluid every 3 years (at the longest!) or every year or so if you want to stay on top of it.
> 
> How is your oil pan weeping? Is oil literally weeping through the pores of the metal? Is the drain plug stripped, or an old crush washer re-used on it? Sounds like some :screwy: to me.
> 
> ...



Ironically, I do own a 2008 Honda Accord Touring V6 with only 67,000 km's. I can honestly say that it has been the best car I have ever owned maintenance wise. As for how they measure the moisture content of brake fluid, I am not a mechanic and do not know. The oil pan is weeping in front right at the gasket/seal, and do you have the clip part numbers by any chance? I asked Ponto last night if the clips are inserted from the engine bay side or from the dash side, he was not sure. I ask this because there are bolts going from the dash side into the engine bay. These minor things have not deterred me from owning this car, more along the lines of how is it going to nickel and dime me now? The reason why I bought it was because it only had 26,000 km's at the time and was elderly person owned, so things like this should not be popping up was my reasoning. I would expect things like this and more from a car that has exponentially more mileage. Ponto should be a salesman, he told me life would be all puppies and rainbows, I would float through my daily commute like the nyan cat with blaring dubstep.....but I hear no dubstep Ryan! where is it! You lie!


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

bitzer said:


> Not as bad as Brent, I remember he literally thought something was wrong with his car just looking at it during one of the few coffee and cars meet ups I went too before he moved.  I just mention things to you as they come up and some how that makes me a hypochondriac.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Oh, well, your first mistake was trusting Ponto. Sorry...all bets are off now 

I do not have the part numbers unfortunately. I am not even 100% sure what part you are talking about. I'd say try looking it up on http://www.jimellisaudiparts.com/ or just go to the dealer if that's an option.

An Audi is not going to be the same as a Honda from an ownership experience, it will nickel and dime you if you're lucky. If you're not, it will straight up punish your wallet  There are little things that you need to stay on top of, and if you do, you can avoid the major things. The car will reward you because it is an absolute joy, but you can't just put gas in it and change the oil every 10,000 miles and expect to get along with it.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

My fire wall clips have been missing since I got it 7 years ago...

My local dealer was really reasonable for a fluid flush with my fancy fluid that I provided. Nice firm pedal. I forget how much they charged, but i couldn't quite duplicate their results flushing it myself.



TBomb said:


> you can't just put gas in it and change the oil every 10,000 miles and expect to get along with it.


I was talking to a guy who has an R8 the other day and he mentioned that in 30,000 miles, he has only changed the oil twice!


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

JRutter said:


> I was talking to a guy who has an R8 the other day and he mentioned that in 30,000 miles, he has only changed the oil twice!


Sacrilege


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## Evo V (Dec 29, 2010)

Few small things started coming up lately:

Rear brakes worn - replaced pads and rotors
Front brakes worn - upgraded to S3 calipers
Rear right brake light shows intermittently that it's broken
Drivers door windows doesn't move - Vag com shows motor is bad
Check engine light came on this morning - running lean
AC unit randomly switches off - in the middle of a hot day of course

The car is 300 miles shy of 200 000 mark and I am using it as a daily driver. I just bought 2012 GTI so I may switch cars for awhile until I fix all these little bugs...


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## dmar179 (Jun 23, 2015)

Also had an oil change today and found out my drivers side axle boot had torn and was leaking oil for god knows how long #safe. This was after the passenger side axle had to be replaced a few months ago..... Yay for $500 in repairs in 6 months. 


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

dmar179 said:


> Also had an oil change today and found out my drivers side axle boot had torn and was leaking oil for god knows how long #safe. This was after the passenger side axle had to be replaced a few months ago..... Yay for $500 in repairs in 6 months.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


How many miles on the car? Not a huge deal really - I had a torn boot on my one side for probably 6 months before i finally changed it. Torn boot doesn't = immediate failure lol.


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## dmar179 (Jun 23, 2015)

Ponto said:


> How many miles on the car? Not a huge deal really - I had a torn boot on my one side for probably 6 months before i finally changed it. Torn boot doesn't = immediate failure lol.


I have about 61k on it and it's lowered a bit so I guess it's something that was destined to happen lol 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

dmar179 said:


> I have about 61k on it and it's lowered a bit so I guess it's something that was destined to happen lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Bingo I'm at 125. Around 100k i had to replace mine. Lowered since 80k or so. 

Sent from my Igloo


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## gammerx (Nov 24, 2015)

$500 in 6 months is pretty good!


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## Bezerker (Nov 12, 2013)

Thanks to the insane heat down south, I have joined the "seat back separation" club. Now to find some glue.


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## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

*insert gorilla glue commercial here*


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

Bezerker said:


> Thanks to the insane heat down south, I have joined the "seat back separation" club. Now to find some glue.





justagirlandhercar said:


> *insert gorilla glue commercial here*
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yep. Finally had this happen to one of my seat backs last summer. Gorilla Glue FTW. :thumbup:


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## tbvvw (Jun 19, 2002)

My 07 3.2 HATES the hot weather...as the fan runs for wayyy to long after shutting the engine down and the DSG 2-1 shift feels like a cinder block dropped next to your feet. Never happens 8 months out of the year, only in summer. My 06 2.0T DSG has neither of these issues, it's consistent all year round.


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## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

tbvvw said:


> My 07 3.2 HATES the hot weather...as the fan runs for wayyy to long after shutting the engine down and the DSG 2-1 shift feels like a cinder block dropped next to your feet. Never happens 8 months out of the year, only in summer. My 06 2.0T DSG has neither of these issues, it's consistent all year round.


I noticed this with mine too!


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

tbvvw said:


> My 07 3.2 HATES the hot weather...as the fan runs for wayyy to long after shutting the engine down and the DSG 2-1 shift feels like a cinder block dropped next to your feet. Never happens 8 months out of the year, only in summer. My 06 2.0T DSG has neither of these issues, it's consistent all year round.





justagirlandhercar said:


> I noticed this with mine too!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


So my 3.2 doesn't have the heat issue - however in really rainy days my DSG shifts go all wonky. Makes zero sense. Only on rainy days. 

As for the fan thing... its a 3.2 they are heat sluts - common for the fans to run for quite a while after shutting the car off.


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## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

Ponto said:


> So my 3.2 doesn't have the heat issue - however in really rainy days my DSG shifts go all wonky. Makes zero sense. Only on rainy days.
> 
> As for the fan thing... its a 3.2 they are heat sluts - common for the fans to run for quite a while after shutting the car off.


My old tt was too, so when I noticed how long the fan was running I just paused for a second, shrugged my shoulders, and kept walking. 


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

Replaced my 4th battery, in 6 years, yesterday, died very little juice, needed a jump to go get the new one. 

At least this last one lasted 2 1/2 years, world record?

Gremlins I shouldn't have ignored: 1. Windshield wiper movement every other time the car is turned off, was happening while I was driving. 2. Driver's door window motor would not shut off once the window was completely up or down, had to flick the window switch to make it stop. 3. My stage 1 APR changed to stock mode on it's own 

:wave:


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## mypixeladdiction (Dec 1, 2011)

Ugh, that reminds me I'm almost going on 2 years without replacing a battery. The end is probably near....


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

Whaaaaa? Your tune reverted to stock? 

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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

pix, I will pray for you and your battery : ))

Gv, yep, with the battery so weak, I have no doubt, one time starting the car took all of the juice, and the chip reverted to stock. Same thing happens when you disconnect the battery.


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

Hmm, ive never had that happen even when my battery died xD after i deployed. Only reason i know is my boost gauge still boosting over 20psi

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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

That's why I call them gremlins. The last time my battery died, I did not have these same symptoms. They are always different.


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

Have 3 torn cv boots. :banghead::banghead::banghead:


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

GvFx said:


> Hmm, ive never had that happen even when my battery died xD after i deployed. Only reason i know is my boost gauge still boosting over 20psi
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


Strange, when I had APR anytime the battery was disconnected or drained to the point that there was a power loss (like trying to start the car when the battery is weak/dead) it would revert back to whichever map is in position 1. So, if you have position 1 be your 93 octane performance map, then it will be the default after a power loss. If the "stock" map is in position 1, then it will default to that. Could be that your position 1 map is something other than "stock"?


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

Not sure haha probably then. Only time iver boosted under 10psi is when a hose got disconnected... For the first time there is nothing wrong with the car... I fixed the nasty transmission gear locking up issue 

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## Evo V (Dec 29, 2010)

*Car wouldn't start - fans not working*

I've been having an issue with my cooling fans since the end of last summer. In the very hot days the AC will just turn off by itself. When I scan the car I see that first one of the fans have intermittent error and now after several months - both. Last Friday was very hot and after about an hour driving in traffic finally got home. I had to leave in 10 min and the car wouldn't start at all. Not even crank. Luckily I am rebuilding a GTI VI and was able to swap the whole fan assembly. The A3 ran as new, no more issues with AC turning off. I wanted to share this in case somebody run into the same problem in the future. :beer:


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## mypixeladdiction (Dec 1, 2011)

So tired of my windows acting weird. anyone have the issue where the windows don't really seem to respond to the controls? Such as, from the driver's side controls: Press down on rear window button, windows starts to roll down, press further to auto down, window stops moving, release button and press again, nothing, release button and press again, window moves an inch down, release, press, nothing, repeat, repeat, repeat. 

I've never had it not work at all for a long period of time. Eventually I get the window to where I want it or it just works. I'd say I have this issue every 2-3 days. Any time it happens, and I press the button when the window isn't responding. I can hear the electronic *click* noise inside the door of that window.


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## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

mypixeladdiction said:


> So tired of my windows acting weird. anyone have the issue where the windows don't really seem to respond to the controls? Such as, from the driver's side controls: Press down on rear window button, windows starts to roll down, press further to auto down, window stops moving, release button and press again, nothing, release button and press again, window moves an inch down, release, press, nothing, repeat, repeat, repeat.
> 
> I've never had it not work at all for a long period of time. Eventually I get the window to where I want it or it just works. I'd say I have this issue every 2-3 days. Any time it happens, and I press the button when the window isn't responding. I can hear the electronic *click* noise inside the door of that window.


My driver side window currently doesn't want to go down automatically, I have to hold the button down. It throws tantrums like that occasionally. 


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## VW KEVIN G (Oct 26, 2000)

My air conditioning quit. I had an Audi specialty shop check my system. No leaks, full pressure. The econ light does not stay on. We replaced the refrigerant circulation valve in the compressor. The radiator cooling fans don't come on when the air conditioning is turned on so he thought the fan control module was bad. He replaced that and the fans still don't come on. He ran out of ideas thinking the actual hvac controls or the wiring is bad.
He suggested taking it to a dealer to check the controls. Is there a way to test the controller? I can buy a used one off of eBay but I guess there is no way to know if I'm purchasing a good unit.
I just had the compressor and the condensor changed two years ago.


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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

mypixeladdiction said:


> So tired of my windows acting weird. anyone have the issue where the windows don't really seem to respond to the controls? Such as, from the driver's side controls: .


Sounds like you need a new driver's window switch. If the other door windows operate properly from their respective switch then it's likely the driver's window switch. Additionally you can roll all the windows down and up from the driver's door lock cylinder by holding the key in the locked and unlocked positions. If all windows operate correctly then again I think it's the driver's window switch. If the problem is with only a particular door window and continues to malfunction with its own window switch, then it might be a window regulator. But regulator failures are typically accompanied by crunching noises.



justagirlandhercar said:


> My driver side window currently doesn't want to go down automatically, I have to hold the button down. It throws tantrums like that occasionally.
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Same here, driver's window switch. Since it works just fine while manually holding the switch then everything else should be okay. The window switches don't control the windows directly, they have four different circuits internally with different resistance values. Whichever resistance value makes it to the control module determines how the window is operated. As an example (not actual values) auto up will be something like 50 ohms, manual up would be 250, manual down 600, auto down 900. I think you can look at a particular measured value block in the respective door control module and/or comfort module to see the resistance values.



VW KEVIN G said:


> My air conditioning quit. I had an Audi specialty shop check my system. No leaks, full pressure. The econ light does not stay on. We replaced the refrigerant circulation valve in the compressor. The radiator cooling fans don't come on when the air conditioning is turned on so he thought the fan control module was bad. He replaced that and the fans still don't come on. He ran out of ideas thinking the actual hvac controls or the wiring is bad.
> He suggested taking it to a dealer to check the controls. Is there a way to test the controller? I can buy a used one off of eBay but I guess there is no way to know if I'm purchasing a good unit.
> I just had the compressor and the condensor changed two years ago.


Diagnosing climate control systems with an internally regulated compressor isn't easy, especially if you don't have access to information about that particular system. Check your fuses; there was another A3 owner a while back that had cut open and shorted wires to the oil level sensor that blew a fuse which fed power to the oil level sensor and high pressure refrigerant sensor. Did the shop scan for trouble codes? Did they check the climate control module measured value blocks to see if it was receiving an accurate refrigerant pressure reading from the high pressure sensor? Did they check if the compressor was receiving proper regulator current at its electrical valve and verify in the climate module's value block? The large diameter cooling fan contains the fan control module which makes it difficult to diagnose. I think you can turn on the fans through the ECMs output tests with a scan tool. They also could have warmed up the engine to see if it overheats from failed fans before condemning them. Even with inoperative cooling fans you should get some cooling output from the A/C for a short time. It's possible that the high pressure sensor has failed and is causing your issues.


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## VW KEVIN G (Oct 26, 2000)

Haha. That was me that had the damaged oil level sensor wiring. I went back and checked the fuses this time too, but the problem is different.
Supposedly, the shop I took it to this time checked for codes and the pressure switch as well.


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## napkinn (May 13, 2003)

My wife's AC Compressor is gone, I think.

She has an '08 FSI, and so far it's been semi reliable, but issues are starting to pile up. She's pushing 140K miles now. AC not working, seat back separation, thermostat went last summer...not sure what else, but it feels like it costs more to keep this thing running than it did to own an E46 M3.


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## toadham (May 17, 2013)

It's at the dealership getting a new intake manifold (P2015).


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## tbvvw (Jun 19, 2002)

Ponto said:


> As for the fan thing... its a 3.2 they are heat sluts - common for the fans to run for quite a while after shutting the car off.


~15 days of 95-98+ doesn't help any. Yesterday on my way home from work the indicator read 107F.

Now I need to find a grey, middle arm rest lid, the one in my '06 split apart at the staples.


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## A3-Owner (Aug 10, 2015)

Oil in the coolant over flow reservoir. Hopefully it is just the oil cooler leaking and not a head gasket or head/block crack.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

A3-Owner said:


> Oil in the coolant over flow reservoir. Hopefully it is just the oil cooler leaking and not a head gasket or head/block crack.




http://www.performancebyie.com/ietsishortblock

http://www.performancebyie.com/ie-2-0t-tsi-sport-series-assembled-cylinder-head

Then 30+ PSI


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## A3-Owner (Aug 10, 2015)

TBomb said:


> http://www.performancebyie.com/ietsishortblock
> 
> http://www.performancebyie.com/ie-2-0t-tsi-sport-series-assembled-cylinder-head
> 
> Then 30+ PSI


That would be great!

I have a fully built lower end. It would be nice to have the head built but I don't and can't put the power through this engine to warrant a built head. With the stock HPFP on the TSI only being good for 150 bar, it puts the car into limp mode at 120 or 130 to protect it. I can't get higher then 25 PSI on my turbo. I have the tune set to 23 PSI to reduce some strain on the motor and to run it rich. We could run it lean for more power but that increases the chances for more issues. Cars at the shop over the weekend. What ever it is, it is not going to be cheap. I hope it is the best option possible. Car has been good for 14 months now with the BT setup.


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## A3-Owner (Aug 10, 2015)

TBomb said:


> http://www.performancebyie.com/ietsishortblock
> 
> http://www.performancebyie.com/ie-2-0t-tsi-sport-series-assembled-cylinder-head
> 
> Then 30+ PSI


Oh yeah, unlike the FSI that has an aftermarket HPFP, the TSI doesn't. Talking to several companies, they have tried to make one for the US but haven't been able to. Some companies have, like Unitronic or USP, but they won't mass produce it or share their research in which I don't blame them.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

A3-Owner said:


> Oh yeah, unlike the FSI that has an aftermarket HPFP, the TSI doesn't. Talking to several companies, they have tried to make one for the US but haven't been able to. Some companies have, like Unitronic or USP, but they won't mass produce it or share their research in which I don't blame them.


Yeah, I knew the ceiling for the TSI HPFP was higher than the FSI in stock form, I thought it was still higher than the aftermarket FSI HPFP options, but I am not sure what that ceiling actually is. I know that DI engines aren't all they're cracked up to be. In which case...you need one of these and some E85 opcorn:

http://www.performancebyie.com/ie-s...vvt-hybrid-oil-pan-w-o-sensor-awp-valve-cover


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## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

Soooo went to turn my key this morning and there was resistance. Tried again and it was fine. When I turned the car off there was resistance again...not looking forward to whatever the hell this problem is.


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## gammerx (Nov 24, 2015)

What's the advantage to the AEB ?


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

An oil leak, been ages, i might not even consider it a problem

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## jordnalos (Nov 19, 2009)

I finally got a chance to do carbon cleaning for the first time @ 82k and had S3 injectors installed. No more misfires and car is running strong but now I get a recurring CEL for either system lean or system rich in bank 1. Currently still on stg2 Revo software but revs when coasting and shifting into neutral drop to 400-600rpm before it blips itself back to idle @ 800-900. The concerning part is that while shifting into neutral and rolling after slowing down, the car has stalled on me and I have to restart in the middle of rolling. Any ideas?


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

jordnalos said:


> I finally got a chance to do carbon cleaning for the first time @ 82k and had S3 injectors installed. No more misfires and car is running strong but now I get a recurring CEL for either system lean or system rich in bank 1. Currently still on stg2 Revo software but revs when coasting and shifting into neutral drop to 400-600rpm before it blips itself back to idle @ 800-900. The concerning part is that while shifting into neutral and rolling after slowing down, the car has stalled on me and I have to restart in the middle of rolling. Any ideas?


Why would you install S3 injectors if your tune doesn't support it?


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

crew219 said:


> Why would you install S3 injectors if your tune doesn't support it?


Yeah...I have an idea. It's this ^. If you put a K04 on your car and tune for it, you should be good to go :laugh:


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## jordnalos (Nov 19, 2009)

Just making sure nothing else needed reworking. Still waiting for my shop to get the stg3 file from Revo for the K04 so other than that it's all good. After this the car is done. Hopefully another 3-4 years this thing will keep running strong then I can go looking for a 911.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

jordnalos said:


> Just making sure nothing else needed reworking. Still waiting for my shop to get the stg3 file from Revo for the K04 so other than that it's all good. After this the car is done. Hopefully another 3-4 years this thing will keep running strong then I can go looking for a 911.


Good deal...I figured you wouldn't just throw S3 injectors in there without planning on upgrading your turbo...but at the same time, running them without tuning for them will definitely cause issues related to fueling.


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## jordnalos (Nov 19, 2009)

TBomb said:


> Good deal...I figured you wouldn't just throw S3 injectors in there without planning on upgrading your turbo...but at the same time, running them without tuning for them will definitely cause issues related to fueling.


Yea, I've been running a Frankenturbo F23t since late Fall last year and it was good on the stock injectors and lower boost setting that I was controlling with a manual boost controller with the stg2 just like they guaranteed but since I was overdue for carbon cleaning, I decided to go ahead with the injectors since the hpfp and turbo back exhaust had already been on for awhile. I wish I could've gone with their Eurodyne tuning program but I can't fiddle around with programs and the local shop around is Revo and further out is APR so hopefully the K04 file will run smoothly then I'll dyno it.


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## VW KEVIN G (Oct 26, 2000)

My ac compressor that was replaced two years ago at the VW dealership with an oem Denso unit is now broken. According to the Audi dealer I took it to, the shaft snapped.


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## autonymous (Jul 26, 2016)

Front seatbacks: Most people seem to have a problem with broken metal clips on their seatbacks. Mine are different.

The plastic piece on the outer seatback (that the metal clips hook into) separated from the backing. Dealership where I bought my car tried to *fix* it with some epoxy, but they didn't let it cure, so they came off again. They ALSO tried to do it right on the car, instead of removing the entire seatback and clip support bar, getting it bonded, then re-installing. So, the weight of the seatback itself kept it from adhering to the support to form a good bond.

So, I ended up taking the backs off, sanding off the epoxy and roughing the surfaces, but I was out of JB Weld at home. Crap.

Threw them in my trunk along with a pair of clamps, stopped at the 24-hour-everything-store on my way to the office this morning to get some JB Weld. Will be walking out to the parking lot in 20 minutes to get those glued and clamped, then let them cure(bake) in my trunk for a few hours until the day is over. 

Slap them back on, leave the parking lot, head to the car wash. :thumbup:


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

autonymous said:


> Front seatbacks: Most people seem to have a problem with broken metal clips on their seatbacks. Mine are different.
> 
> The plastic piece on the outer seatback (that the metal clips hook into) separated from the backing. Dealership where I bought my car tried to *fix* it with some epoxy, but they didn't let it cure, so they came off again. They ALSO tried to do it right on the car, instead of removing the entire seatback and clip support bar, getting it bonded, then re-installing. So, the weight of the seatback itself kept it from adhering to the support to form a good bond.
> 
> ...


I would say most people who have issues with their seat backs on the 8P end up having the problem you described where the plastic seat back separates from the piece that the clips are fastened to, leaving the clips and bracket in the seat while the seat back folds away from the seat. This happened on one of my seats last summer. I just used some Gorilla Glue on the bracket, wrapped a towel around the seat and then used some bungee straps to secure the seat back until the glue set. It's been good to go since :beer:


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## Bezerker (Nov 12, 2013)

TBomb said:


> I would say most people who have issues with their seat backs on the 8P end up having the problem you described where the plastic seat back separates from the piece that the clips are fastened to, leaving the clips and bracket in the seat while the seat back folds away from the seat. This happened on one of my seats last summer. I just used some Gorilla Glue on the bracket, wrapped a towel around the seat and then used some bungee straps to secure the seat back until the glue set. It's been good to go since :beer:


^ Yup. This is the problem I had a couple of weeks ago. I initially just tried to glue it back together without clamping it down and it separated again a couple days later. Cleaned off the surfaces and re-glued it, this time using a clamp with a towel and it seems to be holding up alright after two weeks.


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## gammerx (Nov 24, 2015)

CV boot was ripped on my drivers side outer axle. Local shop said for $300 they could replace it with a new one instead of putting a new boot on (I don't have a ton of tools and was starting to move out). 9 days later the CV joint just exploded. No way they used a proper OEM axle. Brought it to my dad's mechanic now to have a real axle put in. :banghead:


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

gammerx said:


> CV boot was ripped on my drivers side outer axle. Local shop said for $300 they could replace it with a new one instead of putting a new boot on (I don't have a ton of tools and was starting to move out). 9 days later the CV joint just exploded. No way they used a proper OEM axle. Brought it to my dad's mechanic now to have a real axle put in. :banghead:


Did the local shop provide any kind of parts/labor warranty for the axle replacement? I'd at least try to get my money back for the parts if they put some POS in there.


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## skotti (Sep 27, 2005)

TBomb said:


> Did the local shop provide any kind of parts/labor warranty for the axle replacement? I'd at least try to get my money back for the parts if they put some POS in there.


On that note- is there a 'best' axle to put on the A3?


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## gammerx (Nov 24, 2015)

Biggest difference being at my dads house is the first Mechanic is 200 miles away. They're going to reimburse me for the part as I'm keeping the axle to show them...as far as I'm concerned they should pay for everything because I definitely could have gotten seriously injured


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

skotti said:


> On that note- is there a 'best' axle to put on the A3?


Raxles.


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## gammerx (Nov 24, 2015)

New OEM axle put in. Also did rear rotors and brake pads with OEM stuff. Fronts were done with new brembo pads like 5k miles ago (got the 4 pots)


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

gammerx said:


> New OEM axle put in.


Baller


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## sergecur99 (Sep 17, 2005)

*steering noises*

Getting a single click/poping sound in the drivers side front when taking tight turns(90+ degrees). Doesn't happen everytime but most of the time. Any ideas? Will check CV to make sure when I have time. Thanks


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

sergecur99 said:


> Getting a single click/poping sound in the drivers side front when taking tight turns(90+ degrees). Doesn't happen everytime but most of the time. Any ideas? Will check CV to make sure when I have time. Thanks


Strut mount shifting possible. Bearing could be shot. 

Sent from my Igloo


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## caffeine powered (Apr 16, 2007)

right rear wheel bearing is beginning to howl. Again. I guess they're only good for 5 years.


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## gammerx (Nov 24, 2015)

MisterJJ said:


> Baller


$500 and not having a $300 axle job blow up again requiring a $200 tow is well worth it


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

sergecur99 said:


> Getting a single click/poping sound in the drivers side front when taking tight turns(90+ degrees). Doesn't happen everytime but most of the time. Any ideas? Will check CV to make sure when I have time. Thanks





Ponto said:


> Strut mount shifting possible. Bearing could be shot.
> 
> Sent from my Igloo


Could be a strut mount, like Ponto said. Could also be the subframe click/pop noise that is known to happen. The Tyrolsport subframe collars solved my pop/clicking noise, but I had other noises related to the strut mounts as well which went away when I installed new TT mounts and SKF bearings. Are you stock suspension or aftermarket? If aftermarket, what kind? I had an issue at one point with spring bind on one of my front coilovers that caused some noises that went away when I adjusted them.


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## sergecur99 (Sep 17, 2005)

TBomb said:


> Could be a strut mount, like Ponto said. Could also be the subframe click/pop noise that is known to happen. The Tyrolsport subframe collars solved my pop/clicking noise, but I had other noises related to the strut mounts as well which went away when I installed new TT mounts and SKF bearings. Are you stock suspension or aftermarket? If aftermarket, what kind? I had an issue at one point with spring bind on one of my front coilovers that caused some noises that went away when I adjusted them.


Thanks for the info. Stock Sport suspension. Any visual signs the strut mount is bad?


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

sergecur99 said:


> Thanks for the info. Stock Sport suspension. Any visual signs the strut mount is bad?


Not typically. It's usually the bearing within the mount that goes bad. The bearing basically holds the spring in the mount and allows the spring to rotate when the wheels are turned. If the bearing starts to get shot, it can make different noises such as a groaning/grinding noise, or a pop/click noise. You could try spraying some white lithium grease on the bearing from underneath the car and see if that alleviates the noise. If it does, then you've identified the culprit.

The subframe pop/click can typically be heard to be coming from the bottom of the car and is more noticeable when you're changing directions, like if you are backing into a parking spot or doing a 3-point turn or something.


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

Ac in my wifes car (2011 a3) is acting up. Ac button turns off when it fails at producing cold air or it blows cold air for a few mins in the low setting. Then turns off. Filled it up with r134a. Perhaps i overfilled. Nonetheless, ill check for bad fuses and overfill. I had a similar issue on my 2006, but it fixed itself somehow

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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

fellow member with K04 has his DSG serviced. cel comes on right after he picks it up and the cars shifts like crap. He brings it back into the dealer and they give him the finger saying his car is modded and they are washing their hands. gotta love these dealerships. at least look like you give a ****


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## gammerx (Nov 24, 2015)

Apparently they plug your car into the system and auto update the software. Blows my mind


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

key won't turn into ignition... I can't use my car anymore 

anybody knows how to remove the ignition switch?

https://www.ecstuning.com/ES318091/

I think Iam ordering this part, but readed here in another thread that is a PITA to do it, also could be something electrical or sure is this? lord help


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

Not to insult your intelligence, but is the steering wheel locked?


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## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> key won't turn into ignition... I can't use my car anymore
> 
> anybody knows how to remove the ignition switch?
> 
> ...


This literally JUST happened to my car. In my case, the lock needed replaced, but you can't replace it if you can't get your key into third position. We couldn't, so we had to order a new tumbler entirely plus the steering wheel lock. They're coded to your VIN though so I had to go through the actual dealer to get it. Got the tumbler assembly for $85 and the steering wheel lock for $60 from a friend.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

GvFx said:


> Not to insult your intelligence, but is the steering wheel locked?


lol yeah 100% sure the key unlocks the steering wheel but won't turn fully to crank the engine or turn on electronics.



justagirlandhercar said:


> This literally JUST happened to my car. In my case, the lock needed replaced, but you can't replace it if you can't get your key into third position. We couldn't, so we had to order a new tumbler entirely plus the steering wheel lock. They're coded to your VIN though so I had to go through the actual dealer to get it. Got the tumbler assembly for $85 and the steering wheel lock for $60 from a friend.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


thx for replying. 

edit: found that if the tumbler needs replacement you can get both the keyfob and lock cylinder used together for cheap, then transfer immo chip from your original keyfob to the new one, and bypass the dealer. 
Also if the lock cylinder is in good condition but can't be removed, you can cut the steering lock housing to press the securing latch and remove it.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

Tcardio said:


> fellow member with K04 has his DSG serviced. cel comes on right after he picks it up and the cars shifts like crap. He brings it back into the dealer and they give him the finger saying his car is modded and they are washing their hands. gotta love these dealerships. at least look like you give a ****





gammerx said:


> Apparently they plug your car into the system and auto update the software. Blows my mind


Yeah, this is completely crazy. For starters, I would think that any update to the ECU or TCU software should require a customer notification at the very least, especially if you are bringing the car in for something unrelated. In this instance, there was not an issue that would have required an update. The DSG service only requires them to run the adaptation for the transmission after the fluid and filter are changed.

My dealer experiences here in Dallas have been pretty good for the most part, but that is just another reason why I try to do everything I can myself.


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## gammerx (Nov 24, 2015)

Yup. Intake manifold was messed up with the runner flaps...have to replace the whole thing.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

finally removed this


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## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> finally removed this


PITA right?!


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

justagirlandhercar said:


> PITA right?!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


good times :laugh: 

seriously it was a Royal PITA


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## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

Ok, I'm sure one of you guys can help me here...how the heck do I get my volume to NOT go up when accelerating?! I can't find it in the menu and it makes me a little crazy.


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## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> good times :laugh:
> 
> seriously it was a Royal PITA


Well hopefully you won't ever have to do it again!


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

justagirlandhercar said:


> Ok, I'm sure one of you guys can help me here...how the heck do I get my volume to NOT go up when accelerating?! I can't find it in the menu and it makes me a little crazy.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What head unit do you have? If you can find the GALA setting, put that to 0.


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## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

TBomb said:


> What head unit do you have? If you can find the GALA setting, put that to 0.


It's just the stock nav unit one.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

justagirlandhercar said:


> It's just the stock nav unit one.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


yes, if is not there then vagcom has a few settings for the stock headunits.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

justagirlandhercar said:


> It's just the stock nav unit one.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


http://www.vagoc.co.uk/vb/showthread.php?t=4278

Third post there will tell you how to turn it off.


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## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

TBomb said:


> http://www.vagoc.co.uk/vb/showthread.php?t=4278
> 
> Third post there will tell you how to turn it off.


I have the Bose so it looks like Vagcom it is! Thank you! 


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

justagirlandhercar said:


> I have the Bose so it looks like Vagcom it is! Thank you!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


thats not going to fix it


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

justagirlandhercar said:


> Ok, I'm sure one of you guys can help me here...how the heck do I get my volume to NOT go up when accelerating?! I can't find it in the menu and it makes me a little crazy.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I assume you have RNSE so...

that unit has Gala which is speed dependent volume change and

Bose Audipilot which is interior noise controlled volume change

Turning off Gala will not change the interior noise compensation. To do that you need perform or have a stealer perform TSB Audi Technical Service Bulletin 91-04-17.

To be honest, it's not worth it but turning Gala off may make life a little easier. I will say taking out plug 7 on the blue connector disables the bose eq and the sound is much better


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## Xymox (Jul 1, 1999)

Left rear brake light bulb randomly turning on/off and throwing the annoying bulb out indicator. :banghead:


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

Xymox said:


> Left rear brake light bulb randomly turning on/off and throwing the annoying bulb out indicator. :banghead:


And that nasty beep at startup? Bwuahahah

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## napkinn (May 13, 2003)

Xymox said:


> Left rear brake light bulb randomly turning on/off and throwing the annoying bulb out indicator. :banghead:


Lol, I live near Harrisburg and my wife's A3 does the same thing...

So this morning, my wife's battery was dead. We jumped it and took it to Advance Auto Parts and they said they won't replace it because it needs to be coded at the dealer. Is that true? Do you actually need a VAG-COM for something as simple as a battery replacement?


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

No.

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## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

napkinn said:


> Lol, I live near Harrisburg and my wife's A3 does the same thing...
> 
> So this morning, my wife's battery was dead. We jumped it and took it to Advance Auto Parts and they said they won't replace it because it needs to be coded at the dealer. Is that true? Do you actually need a VAG-COM for something as simple as a battery replacement?


Definitely not.


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## napkinn (May 13, 2003)

GvFx said:


> No.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk





justagirlandhercar said:


> Definitely not.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


This seems to indicate otherwise for a similar era A6...



> You do nead VCDS (VAG-COM)
> 
> Audi A8 (4E) Battery Replacement
> 
> ...


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## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

napkinn said:


> This seems to indicate otherwise for a similar era A6...


We've replaced the battery in mine twice. Never did any sort of coding.


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

justagirlandhercar said:


> We've replaced the battery in mine twice. Never did any sort of coding.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Same... Ive replaced mine and my wifes. 0 coding involved. No errors to date. (2011 A3, 2006 A3)

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## napkinn (May 13, 2003)

Thanks for the replies, guys. I'm gonna have her take it to Autozone and see if they'll replace. If they won't, I'll have her buy a battery and I'll F'n do it. Just don't really have time today...Ugh.


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

Its only like 5 mins xD

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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

napkinn said:


> Thanks for the replies, guys. I'm gonna have her take it to Autozone and see if they'll replace. If they won't, I'll have her buy a battery and I'll F'n do it. Just don't really have time today...Ugh.


Like others have said there's no coding involved, just replace the battery. It matters on other Audis because they have a battery energy manager control module, which the 8P A3 does not have.


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## marcocampagna (Feb 21, 2015)

My AC intermittently goes from ice cold to completely non-existant. 

It seems to happen when the car has been sitting for a while, and if I turn the car off and restart it once it is at operating temperature, the AC blows cold again.

Any ideas?


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

Audi_Mechanic said:


> Like others have said there's no coding involved, just replace the battery. It matters on other Audis because they have a battery energy manager control module, which the 8P A3 does not have.


Yeah, but since it was more of a 8P thread, we kind of figured..

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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

GvFx said:


> Yeah, but since it was more of a 8P thread, we kind of figured..
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


What? I don't understand the point of your reply.

To clarify, I posted the reason why someone may be afraid to install a battery into an Audi. No one explained why use of a specific scan tool would be necessary and no one explained why it wasn't necessary on a 8P A3, so I tried to take care of that (not well enough it seems). If the reasons were common knowledge for every member of the A3 forum the question wouldn't have even come up. 

Purpose of adapting/coding of Battery Energy Manager control module after battery replacement is to allow the control module to monitor the health of the new battery to properly perform shut down stages, monitor state of charge, charging rate of battery and evaluation of battery lifespan. Shut down stages work by preventing use of electrical consumers when certain battery voltages aren't met so that the engine can be started and battery recharged. Early stages shut off things like window/seat heaters, sunroof, radio. On older Audis with the control module, a new battery might not be fully recharged if the module wasn't reset and would lead to electrical problems (the main reason for someone not wanting to replace a battery on an Audi). BEM control module also monitors history for low voltage events and if a small number of systems were left on like lights and ignition. So if the battery dies due to someone leaving the lights or car on, it will be seen. Luckily there are usually too many history entries of low voltage when a battery dies to determine if the owner is at fault.


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

Audi_Mechanic said:


> What? I don't understand the point of your reply.
> 
> To clarify, I posted the reason why someone may be afraid to install a battery into an Audi. No one explained why use of a specific scan tool would be necessary and no one explained why it wasn't necessary on a 8P A3, so I tried to take care of that (not well enough it seems). If the reasons were common knowledge for every member of the A3 forum the question wouldn't have even come up.
> 
> Purpose of adapting/coding of Battery Energy Manager control module after battery replacement is to allow the control module to monitor the health of the new battery to properly perform shut down stages, monitor state of charge, charging rate of battery and evaluation of battery lifespan. Shut down stages work by preventing use of electrical consumers when certain battery voltages aren't met so that the engine can be started and battery recharged. Early stages shut off things like window/seat heaters, sunroof, radio. On older Audis with the control module, a new battery might not be fully recharged if the module wasn't reset and would lead to electrical problems (the main reason for someone not wanting to replace a battery on an Audi). BEM control module also monitors history for low voltage events and if a small number of systems were left on like lights and ignition. So if the battery dies due to someone leaving the lights or car on, it will be seen. Luckily there are usually too many history entries of low voltage when a battery dies to determine if the owner is at fault.


Is this just for older models, if so how old? I hadnt ever heard of coding involved with batteries, but im far from being a mechanic xD

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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

GvFx said:


> Is this just for older models, if so how old? I hadnt ever heard of coding involved with batteries, but im far from being a mechanic xD
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


Officially from Audi all cars with the battery manager needed to be re-coded. What I've seen is that newer cars don't have problems when an adequate aftermarket battery is installed. I think the first Audi with a battery manager in the US was the 2004 A8. Then the '05 A6, then the '07 Q7, then the '08 A5, then '09 A4 sedan. Currently the only cars without a battery manager are I think the A3, TT and maybe new R8. Updates to the battery manager have taken place along the way so I can't say when exactly they become less of a nuisance because it varies per model. But the A8 was the biggest offender, many would come to the dealer with dead batteries after an aftermarket battery was installed; most of the time they were fixed by just simply re-coding the battery manager. I'd say anything 2010+ is probably not going to have problems if the battery is replaced without re-coding, but as cars age we don't see them much so I can't say for sure when for each model. I think the versions where the battery manager is integrated into the negative battery clamp is the type that probably won't have charging issues.

Battery manager has the capability to run its own battery test when using a scan tool which is a requirement for battery warranty. Batteries are typically mounted in a location that isn't easily accessible such as under the driver's seat in a first gen Q7 or in the trunk under the spare wheel and tools on most others. So if I test the battery with a scan tool and can't see if the battery was already replaced, the battery will come up faulty and I won't find out until after I start taking stuff out. Seeing aftermarket batteries without any concerns leads me to believe that it's probably okay to replace them without re-coding the battery manager. I give customers the option to just re-code the BEM and not replace the aftermarket battery because it's probably fine.


----------



## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

installed back the original diaphgram diverter valve, the new piston style "upgraded" DV dieded after a year chipped.
now the car is fast again opcorn:


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> installed back the original diaphgram diverter valve, the new piston style "upgraded" DV dieded after a year chipped.
> now the car is fast again opcorn:


I haven't heard much of the piston style valves dying. Was it electrical or mechanical failure?

I've been running the piston style in my chipped car for around 8 years.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

MisterJJ said:


> I haven't heard much of the piston style valves dying. Was it electrical or mechanical failure?
> 
> I've been running the piston style in my chipped car for around 8 years.


yeah thats weird. The car was loosing boost and going limp mode, so I scanned it with vagcom and found:

008801 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249) 
P2261 - 008 - Mechanical Malfunction - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 294266 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.08.26
Time: 14:00:10

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2774 /min
Load: 8.2 %
Speed: 93.0 km/h
Temperature: 90.0°C
Temperature: 28.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.716 V

and


000567 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31) 
P0237 - 002 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 294106 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.08.19
Time: 11:53:45

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 3980 /min
Load: 74.9 %
Speed: 76.0 km/h
Temperature: 89.0°C
Temperature: 32.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.970 V



so I decided to clean the MAP sensor and swap the DV to the old one I had lying around.


When I removed the piston rev. D diverter valve from the turbo, it came apart after pressing it, it wasn't feely moving, it was like partially stuck. 


Now I checked ecs tuning and found that a new diverter valve is out, the revised diapghram valve. Anybody knows about this?

Also I maybe just swap the MAP sensor too in the go for peace of mind, just dunno if it should be done, car is back running strong.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> installed back the original diaphgram diverter valve, the new piston style "upgraded" DV dieded after a year chipped.
> now the car is fast again opcorn:





MisterJJ said:


> I haven't heard much of the piston style valves dying. Was it electrical or mechanical failure?
> 
> I've been running the piston style in my chipped car for around 8 years.





2006_A3_2.0T said:


> yeah thats weird. The car was loosing boost and going limp mode, so I scanned it with vagcom and found:
> 
> 008801 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249)
> P2261 - 008 - Mechanical Malfunction - Intermittent
> ...


Just get a GFB DV+ and install it on your Rev. D solenoid. It's the best of both worlds from the diaphragm and piston styles.


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## tbvvw (Jun 19, 2002)

marcocampagna said:


> My AC intermittently goes from ice cold to completely non-existant.
> 
> It seems to happen when the car has been sitting for a while, and if I turn the car off and restart it once it is at operating temperature, the AC blows cold again.
> 
> Any ideas?


I had the exact issue 2x...cost me $1500 each time. Failed compressor. It'll work and blow cold air...but only for so long.


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## Evo V (Dec 29, 2010)

marcocampagna said:


> My AC intermittently goes from ice cold to completely non-existant.
> 
> It seems to happen when the car has been sitting for a while, and if I turn the car off and restart it once it is at operating temperature, the AC blows cold again.
> 
> Any ideas?


I had this same on mine '09. I ran vag-com and it tells me that both fans intermittently stop working. What I noticed is that the AC shuts off when I am in traffic. If I am at cruising speed AC doesn't shut off. I replaced the fans about a month ago and haven't had the issue since. I did round trip Boston - NYC in 95F weather with traffic so I would have seen the issue if it wasn't fix. The smaller fan cools the AC and if it stop working the AC overheats and shuts off.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

Crack in DSG bell housing next to a repair weld that some shop did without telling me (they must have dropped it or something). 3rd flywheel is getting rough, maybe due to small misalignment internally in the housing? I may have found a complete replacement that would also give me many spare parts. Waiting for a shipping quote.

Also have engine power shut down due to intermittent ECM communication to many modules all at once. Fortunately, it seems to fail into neutral, so I coasted to an off ramp this morning when it happened at highway speed. Car will restart, but problem recurs. It is sitting at the dealer now. Hoping for a corroded pin in the ECM plug housing.

Bleh...


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

JRutter said:


> Crack in DSG bell housing next to a repair weld that some shop did without telling me (they must have dropped it or something). 3rd flywheel is getting rough, maybe due to small misalignment internally in the housing? I may have found a complete replacement that would also give me many spare parts. Waiting for a shipping quote.
> 
> Also have engine power shut down due to intermittent ECM communication to many modules all at once. Fortunately, it seems to fail into neutral, so I coasted to an off ramp this morning when it happened at highway speed. Car will restart, but problem recurs. It is sitting at the dealer now. Hoping for a corroded pin in the ECM plug housing.
> 
> Bleh...


feck that! sorry to hear that. Way to much moisture up in your neck of the woods


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## alex-t (Mar 24, 2008)

Bought the car from my dad at 160K KM. All service was done at dealer and thus cam follower never got done. Took it out the other day (165k KM) and this is what I found....Email got sent to the dealership today. Car was bought in 05 as an 06 model. I know the extended warranty only covers 10years or 120K miles so I'm crossing my fingers.

20160911_141904_HDR by ARTorres., on Flickr

20160911_141707_HDR by ARTorres., on Flickr

20160911_141659_HDR by ARTorres., on Flickr


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

not an atypical experience. Another news flash. Make sure you get old parts back from stealer. They rarely change dsg filters either


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## alex-t (Mar 24, 2008)

:thumbup: It's a good thing I don't have a DSG then. I'll try harder to be atypical next time


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

alex-t said:


> :thumbup: It's a good thing I don't have a DSG then. I'll try harder to be atypical next time


I think is the other way around, DSG's are bulletproof. 



My whole top end is sweating oil, I will go back to stock PCV, and get an new valve cover gasket, start from there :screwy:


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## autonymous (Jul 26, 2016)

70k, my front wheel bearings just started making noise yesterday.

(BTW: Hi!! new here, just got the car last month)


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## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

autonymous said:


> 70k, my front wheel bearings just started making noise yesterday.
> 
> (BTW: Hi!! new here, just got the car last month)


Hi! 


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

JRutter said:


> Also have engine power shut down due to intermittent ECM communication to many modules all at once. Fortunately, it seems to fail into neutral, so I coasted to an off ramp this morning when it happened at highway speed. Car will restart, but problem recurs. It is sitting at the dealer now. Hoping for a corroded pin in the ECM plug housing.


It was a pinched wire to the ECU with copper exposed and shorting out. They did an overlay with a repair pin and the car is running again. SO that's one less thing to worry about.


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## tiptronic (Apr 18, 1999)

Xymox said:


> Left rear brake light bulb randomly turning on/off and throwing the annoying bulb out indicator. :banghead:


 So I am assuming it happens when the car is not even on? If so you may have an ECU issue. Cost me $$$.


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## tiptronic (Apr 18, 1999)

JRutter said:


> It was a pinched wire to the ECU with copper exposed and shorting out. They did an overlay with a repair pin and the car is running again. SO that's one less thing to worry about.


Was that the main cause of your engine shutting down? Hopefully your car gets back to 100%


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## -j- (Jan 15, 2006)

Hi all,
Long time lurker. Here's my issue. Has anyone heard this sound on their car before? Mechanics unable to pinpoint. I'm thinking tensioner bearing is going out but it's a shot in the dark. This is not my car but the same issue. I have a 2006 A3 2.0t

https://youtu.be/_F3cR1rwIHs


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## kskreider (Aug 12, 2016)

My rear windshield wiper decided it was possessed last weekend but threw no codes.

I will disassemble the motor and see whether I can clean it up a little. It appears the A3's are known for having problems with it. I live on a dirt road so I have to pay more attention to keeping the fluid jet ports unclogged.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

kskreider said:


> My rear windshield wiper decided it was possessed last weekend but threw no codes.


Mine did some random isht a while ago but stopped on its own. Seems like all VW/Audi cars have demons that just stop by, cause random weirdness, maybe they'll add a new rattle, drink some oil, and then they move on.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

my car just doesnt starts anymore.

Thought it was a dead battery but with new battery it doesnt crank-

I tapped the started and then it tries to crank at least, looks like a weak or dead starter.

Would it need some grease (it grinds when it turns), or a new starter?


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## GohnJallo (Sep 20, 2016)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> I think is the other way around, DSG's are bulletproof.
> 
> 
> 
> My whole top end is sweating oil, I will go back to stock PCV, and get an new valve cover gasket, start from there :screwy:


Are the PCV's on the 2.0 and 3.2 prone to clogging? The PCV on my Volvo got so badly clogged that the cam seals blew out, and I'd really like to avoid another incident like that. That was quite the repair job. Turning the key when everything was back together was a serious clencher moment. The cam sprocket on the intake camshaft isn't indexed/keyed onto the shaft even though it isn't VVT. That was a weird motor to work on.


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## GohnJallo (Sep 20, 2016)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> my car just doesnt starts anymore.
> 
> Thought it was a dead battery but with new battery it doesnt crank-
> 
> ...


First check the voltage at the battery when it's just sitting and have someone read it as you try and crank. If you hit it with a hammer and it tried to crank but ultimately failed it's likely the starter. From how you're describing it, it sounds like the starter doesn't want to turn and also the bendix isn't popping up to engage the flywheel- or did you mean that the motor does crank or just the starter turns?


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

GohnJallo said:


> Are the PCV's on the 2.0 and 3.2 prone to clogging?


The 2.0t doesn't seem to be too bad. I'm at 160k miles and the only PCV related CEL I've ever got was when the car was new and the PCV was replaced under warranty. Hoses and inlets that I've removed have looked pretty clear EXCEPT the large hose that goes from the PCV to the oil cooler. I recently did major maintenance and found that near the bottom of this tube it was close to completely clogged. I broke the junk loose and it was fine... until this weekend when I broke the hose while replacing the cam chain tensioner.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> I tapped the started and then it tries to crank at least, looks like a weak or dead starter.


That's normally a sign of a solenoid going out. In the old days you could replace the solenoid separately but now they're all integrated into the starter. It's possible that it's just the shaft sticking and some grease would help but solenoids tend to eventually go bad so I would put my money on that bet.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

GohnJallo said:


> First check the voltage at the battery when it's just sitting and have someone read it as you try and crank. If you hit it with a hammer and it tried to crank but ultimately failed it's likely the starter. From how you're describing it, it sounds like the starter doesn't want to turn and also the bendix isn't popping up to engage the flywheel- or did you mean that the motor does crank or just the starter turns?


:thumbup: 



MisterJJ said:


> That's normally a sign of a solenoid going out. In the old days you could replace the solenoid separately but now they're all integrated into the starter. It's possible that it's just the shaft sticking and some grease would help but solenoids tend to eventually go bad so I would put my money on that bet.


Hi there Mr:

In the end it was the starter, I didn't feel like tackling it, so decided to just make things painless and called my mechanic, he came and boom got it up running in a couple of hours.

He removed the starter, and then his electro-specialist took it apart and replaced those little parts that consume themselves, a pic is worth a thousand words:

those grey little blocks that sit inside the black plastic cases were replaced.









at the same time the starter was cleaned and regreased with lots of grease. Wow after geting this car since 6 years ago, it never ever had a clean, noise-free start. Now just listened on how those cars really start... :beer:


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> those grey little blocks that sit inside the black plastic cases were replaced.


The grey blocks are called "brushes". I've fixed blower motors, window actuators, and lock actuators by simply unsticking them or adjusting the connecting cables. I've never had to do that on a starter but it's good to know so if/when mine fails I can give it a shot. Funny thing is... just this weekend I was working on my car and looked down at the starter and thought "All my previous cars have had starter problems, but the ones in the A3 seem pretty solid".

Did the mechanic actually have replacement brushes available? They're usually pretty specific to each make and model of motor. Do you have an invoice with part number?


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Having an intermittent fuel cut out. Car has stalled a couple of times and non-start once. 

Usually cycle the key and she will fire right up. 

Codes indicated fault to all 6 injectors - reasoning, no fuel. Probable cause? Fuel Pump Relay. But I keep forgetting to replace it cause the issue goes away for a month lol.


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## GohnJallo (Sep 20, 2016)

Starter rebuilds are becoming rarer and rarer, even on small engines. The Bendix on the starter for our Suzuki outboard died last summer 4 mechanics in a row said nothing was wrong. The Bendix is what pops the starter gear up onto the flywheel, and it wasn't working. The worst part about the whole ordeal was that we had just gotten the boat in water...

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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

MisterJJ said:


> The grey blocks are called "brushes". I've fixed blower motors, window actuators, and lock actuators by simply unsticking them or adjusting the connecting cables. I've never had to do that on a starter but it's good to know so if/when mine fails I can give it a shot. Funny thing is... just this weekend I was working on my car and looked down at the starter and thought "All my previous cars have had starter problems, but the ones in the A3 seem pretty solid".
> 
> Did the mechanic actually have replacement brushes available? They're usually pretty specific to each make and model of motor. Do you have an invoice with part number?


 yeah Mr is weird I didn't know the name of those things. this car has had the grinding noise at startup since day 1 with me, so today I heard , after 6 years of owning it, the real way those start without the noise lol. maybe thats why those brushes went in the first place from working with the extra load because a dirty dry internals.

The mechanic asked me to source the brushes at a local shop that has those parts for all kind of starters, from korean to us models,-mine didn't-, but they had in stock a very similar one, so in the end got those for 5 dollars, and he grinded it to the right size, and solder it to the brush holder, he told me thats the weak point and I should source a refurbished unit, but the starter woks like a charm, like new, I might stick with it for a while until getting a proper replacement. opcorn:


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

GohnJallo said:


> Starter rebuilds are becoming rarer and rarer, even on small engines. The Bendix on the starter for our Suzuki outboard died last summer 4 mechanics in a row said nothing was wrong. The Bendix is what pops the starter gear up onto the flywheel, and it wasn't working. The worst part about the whole ordeal was that we had just gotten the boat in water...
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


yeah, I thought the same thing, the bendix because thats what most rebuild shops do, but those german starters are bulletproof, so I thought it was just a lube thing, but after further inspection the mechanic pointed to worn or eaten brushes. I suspect it was from a clogged/dirty hardly turning starter all those years


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

My wife's A3 is acting up. The AC blows cold only when i just start the vehicle. Frustrating issue! Oh, and the smell coming from the AC is disgusting... Replaced the cabin filter recently. I think i will take it to the mech. Codes arent being thrown at all. 

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

GvFx said:


> My wife's A3 is acting up. The AC blows cold only when i just start the vehicle. Frustrating issue! Oh, and the smell coming from the AC is disgusting... Replaced the cabin filter recently. I think i will take it to the mech. Codes arent being thrown at all.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


Need to do a refresh/recharge on the system. If you run the Ac a lot the water condensing all the time causes the nasty smell. Run the HVAC system with the ac off for a few minutes before shutting the car off each time to help avoid this. 

Sent from my Igloo


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

Ponto said:


> Need to do a refresh/recharge on the system. If you run the Ac a lot the water condensing all the time causes the nasty smell. Run the HVAC system with the ac off for a few minutes before shutting the car off each time to help avoid this.
> 
> Sent from my Igloo


Yeah ive done the recharge, the pipes get cold and everything, but it never actually makes it cold in the cabin.. well sometimes it does for a few minutes then it ggoes off

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

GvFx said:


> Yeah ive done the recharge, the pipes get cold and everything, but it never actually makes it cold in the cabin.. well sometimes it does for a few minutes then it ggoes off
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


Everything held pressure fine when the recharge was done? 

Does the Econ light come on ever on its own? Depending what compressor you have it may be on its way out. Pretty common on the A3 sadly. 

Sent from my Igloo


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

Ponto said:


> Everything held pressure fine when the recharge was done?
> 
> Does the Econ light come on ever on its own? Depending what compressor you have it may be on its way out. Pretty common on the A3 sadly.
> Yeah the pressure was reading fine
> ...


Its just sad, my 06 had an issue briefly, and now my 11 has a bad compressor!  

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

My first 07 A3 has a bad compressor. Second A3 has been good thus far (130k miles) 

Sent from my Igloo


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

GvFx said:


> Yeah ive done the recharge, the pipes get cold and everything, but it never actually makes it cold in the cabin.. well sometimes it does for a few minutes then it ggoes off


That's different from the other common failures (exploding compressor internals or slow to get cold, like mine was).

I wonder if some flap in the HVAC unit is broke and not directing the air correctly. Or maybe a partially clogged orifice.


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## GohnJallo (Sep 20, 2016)

MisterJJ said:


> Or maybe a partially clogged orifice.


😏💩


Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


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## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

GohnJallo said:


> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


 Glad someone else was entertained by that.


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## GohnJallo (Sep 20, 2016)

justagirlandhercar said:


> Glad someone else was entertained by that.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Likewise! 😂

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Must be getting old... just can't keep it up anymore. 

Anybody try the cheaper brand remedies, like this: Keep it UP!


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## GohnJallo (Sep 20, 2016)

MisterJJ said:


> Must be getting old... just can't keep it up anymore.
> 
> Anybody try the cheaper brand remedies, like this: Keep it UP!


Lmfao I'm ded

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

MisterJJ said:


> Must be getting old... just can't keep it up anymore.
> 
> Anybody try the cheaper brand remedies, like this: Keep it UP!


mine's a goner too. thats gotta do the work, gonna get one too thanks for the link :beer:


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## gammerx (Nov 24, 2015)

After spending $$ on k04 upgrades, flywheel rattle. :banghead:


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## Trueginster98 (Oct 28, 2013)

Just got my first audi. An a3 obviously. Just in time for winter! No heat. Tried a coolant/heater core flush still no heat. Looking like a bad heater core. It has a wonky start for the first turn over of the day, and a few dings in the paint. That's the only thing wrong with it so far! 

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

Trueginster98 said:


> Just got my first audi. An a3 obviously. Just in time for winter! No heat. Tried a coolant/heater core flush still no heat. Looking like a bad heater core. It has a wonky start for the first turn over of the day, and a few dings in the paint. That's the only thing wrong with it so far!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


Welcome to the club!


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## Trueginster98 (Oct 28, 2013)

justagirlandhercar said:


> Welcome to the club!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks! I've owned a number of VWs but decided to go Audi this time and im enjoying it so far. Is it normal for your friends, family and neighbors to think your like baller status rich because you own an Audi. Cus that's kinda the response I've gotten. Audis arn't that much different than VWs.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

Trueginster98 said:


> Thanks! I've owned a number of VWs but decided to go Audi this time and im enjoying it so far. Is it normal for your friends, family and neighbors to think your like baller status rich because you own an Audi. Cus that's kinda the response I've gotten. Audis arn't that much different than VWs.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


Yes! I get that alllll the time. I paid $14k. You'd think I paid $40k!


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## Trueginster98 (Oct 28, 2013)

justagirlandhercar said:


> Yes! I get that alllll the time. I paid $14k. You'd think I paid $40k!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Right! My neighbor was like "wait until your first oil change" hahaha people think changing the oil in these things is like doing a blood transfusion and it's ridiculously more expensive than a regular car using synthetic. Don't get me wrong, some of the bigger engines take a crazy amount of oil and can get pricey, but just as pricey as a Chevy with a giant motor.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## tbvvw (Jun 19, 2002)

Trueginster98 said:


> Right! My neighbor was like "wait until your first oil change" hahaha people think changing the oil in these things is like doing a blood transfusion and it's ridiculously more expensive than a regular car using synthetic.


My VW dealership does all my maint and the oil changes on both my A3s - same price as a Golf/GTI. And at $59 ($49 w/ a coupon) for a synth change, a bargain. 



Question: my MFD shows a light out (and i checked every single bulb - they are all in working order?) What now? The menu doesn't tell me which one?


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## Trueginster98 (Oct 28, 2013)

tbvvw said:


> My VW dealership does all my maint and the oil changes on both my A3s - same price as a Golf/GTI. And at $59 ($49 w/ a coupon) for a synth change, a bargain.
> 
> 
> 
> Question: my MFD shows a light out (and i checked every single bulb - they are all in working order?) What now? The menu doesn't tell me which one?


Put a little piece of electrical tape over the light. It should appear to be off after that. 

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## tbvvw (Jun 19, 2002)

Trueginster98 said:


> Put a little piece of electrical tape over the light. It should appear to be off after that.


Sounds good in theory...but it's the info displayed there when the burned out bulb isn't showing that I want to see.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Have you switched any of your bulbs to LED's recently? 

Signals all work? All 3 brake lights per side work in the back? (6 bulbs in totalll)


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

tbvvw said:


> Question: my MFD shows a light out (and i checked every single bulb - they are all in working order?) What now? The menu doesn't tell me which one?


My car has always told me exactly what bulb is out. Maybe it only does that for brake and headlights though. I've never had a side marker light go out or anything else.

You could try removing a bulb and see if you get a specific warning for that light or not and you can eliminate any ones that get a specific warning as being the problem.


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## tbvvw (Jun 19, 2002)

Ponto said:


> Have you switched any of your bulbs to LED's recently?
> 
> Signals all work? All 3 brake lights per side work in the back? (6 bulbs in totalll)


No change to LEDs and everything seems to work?? 




MisterJJ said:


> My car has always told me exactly what bulb is out. Maybe it only does that for brake and headlights though. I've never had a side marker light go out or anything else.
> 
> You could try removing a bulb and see if you get a specific warning for that light or not and you can eliminate any ones that get a specific warning as being the problem.


It used to tell me which one was out, it's how I replaced a burned out bulb a few months ago. This time it doesn't tell me anything other than that damn yellow warning light. I'll try your suggestion.

FWIW - I have 2 A3s and have had to replaces rear taillight bulbs 3-4x in the last yr. (the dual ones for brake and lamp)


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## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

tbvvw said:


> No change to LEDs and everything seems to work??
> 
> 
> 
> ...












You mean this little jerk?  It didn't tell me either, but I know it's my one city light which is more work than it's worth right now. Haha I'll change it when I put my winter wheels on.



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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

tbvvw said:


> No change to LEDs and everything seems to work??
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hmm corner markers maybe? Seems odd. 

Sent from my Igloo


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

P0237 comes on some time to time: impausible intermitent signal from the MAP G31 sensor. Swapped in a new MAP and no dice. Anybody knows about this?
sympthoms: will cut on full boost in warmer days. limp mode. 

I've read its a vacuum or boost leak somewhere. I will test the MAP harness but not sure if is a short to ground or something like that, oh also I have a new boost control valve (not the DV) I will swap too, but not sure about that yet. TIA


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## vwlippy (Jul 17, 2001)

tbvvw said:


> Question: my MFD shows a light out (and i checked every single bulb - they are all in working order?) What now? The menu doesn't tell me which one?


There are multiple bulbs in the tail lights. I bet its one of those. 
You have to look close.


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## tbvvw (Jun 19, 2002)

Ponto said:


> Hmm corner markers maybe? Seems odd.


I agree it seems odd, the message "used to" tell me which light was out, now the only message is the "passenger airbag..."

I've gone around the car 5x with my son hitting brakes and signals behind the wheel and everything works.

I wouldn't have a complaint if I could turn it off and see my sat radio data again, but alas no.


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## vwlippy (Jul 17, 2001)

tbvvw said:


> I've gone around the car 5x with my son hitting brakes and signals behind the wheel and everything works.


Did you check the reverse lights?


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

vwlippy said:


> Did you check the reverse lights?


What about interior lights? There's one in glove box and also one in the trunk... uh... hatch area... uh... whatever that's called behind the rear seats. Not sure if they would register bulb warnings or not.


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## mypixeladdiction (Dec 1, 2011)

Can you adjust the headlights manually or does it require a computer connection? Drove pretty late last night and noticed mine are way low, probably from the coilovers/lowering.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> P0237 comes on some time to time: impausible intermitent signal from the MAP G31 sensor. Swapped in a new MAP and no dice. Anybody knows about this?
> sympthoms: will cut on full boost in warmer days. limp mode.
> 
> I've read its a vacuum or boost leak somewhere. I will test the MAP harness but not sure if is a short to ground or something like that, oh also I have a new boost control valve (not the DV) I will swap too, but not sure about that yet. TIA


this was it just in case, the N249.


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## GohnJallo (Sep 20, 2016)

Finally figured out what the rattling noise that started last weekend was. I definitely hit a rock on SS7...









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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Hadn't been using the A3 for a week or so, due to having so much fun driving my '99 Tacoma after putting in all new injectors, coils, and plugs...So, first time I started the A3 I hear this strange little squeak, thought it was the e.brake, it went away immediately. Next day, heard the squeak again, and saw the "check coolant" graphic on the display: reservoir was almost empty. Put some pink back in it and all is well. Where did the coolant leak from? Didn't see any under the reservoir


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Self-levelers need to be put in "maintenance mode" first, which requires VAG or VAD...Then they can be mechanically aimed. Then you save the position through VAG/VAD.



mypixeladdiction said:


> Can you adjust the headlights manually or does it require a computer connection? Drove pretty late last night and noticed mine are way low, probably from the coilovers/lowering.


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## skotti (Sep 27, 2005)

kgw said:


> Hadn't been using the A3 for a week or so, due to having so much fun driving my '99 Tacoma after putting in all new injectors, coils, and plugs...So, first time I started the A3 I hear this strange little squeak, thought it was the e.brake, it went away immediately. Next day, heard the squeak again, and saw the "check coolant" graphic on the display: reservoir was almost empty. Put some pink back in it and all is well. Where did the coolant leak from? Didn't see any under the reservoir


My 2006 had a fine crack in the radiator, it kept losing fluid until finally lost enough to see the drops in the housing and under the car.
I believe it is not uncommon for a radiator leak in the early models- maybe someone else can chime in?


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

skotti said:


> My 2006 had a fine crack in the radiator, it kept losing fluid until finally lost enough to see the drops in the housing and under the car.
> I believe it is not uncommon for a radiator leak in the early models- maybe someone else can chime in?


Common...

http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?5019314-Got-Pink&highlight=radiator+leak+ignore

7 years now and still not leaking again.


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

Ughhh these small annoying problems..
Stupid armrest is locked in position.. From 1 hr to the next.










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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

*Low coolant...*

I'll keep a Gearhead's Eye on it...


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## kskreider (Aug 12, 2016)

I put my winter tires on the other day (Blizzaks on stock 18" rims) I found two tires losing air often so I took it to the tire shop today. Front left had a leaking stem which was fixed. Rear left has a cracked rim. FML.

Anyone have a source for a Hollander 560-58823? I can get one for $190 + freight brand new from the local junkyard/part supplier.


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## body electric (Aug 27, 2002)

*rough idle when in Drive but Neutral is calm?*

I've been noticing on my 2008 A3 that at stops my idle is kinda rough. Not to the point of it's noticeable but a subtle shake. But, when you engaged it in neutral it's smooth and no hesitation. Anyone have an answer for this?


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

body electric said:


> I've been noticing on my 2008 A3 that at stops my idle is kinda rough. Not to the point of it's noticeable but a subtle shake. But, when you engaged it in neutral it's smooth and no hesitation. Anyone have an answer for this?


Possible PCV?

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## body electric (Aug 27, 2002)

GvFx said:


> Possible PCV?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


is that an easy fix? Valve easy to get to?


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## body electric (Aug 27, 2002)

awesome, did a google search and found some info. Looks easy. I hope that is it.


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

body electric said:


> awesome, did a google search and found some info. Looks easy. I hope that is it.


You see your RPMs fluctuate a little at idle, after coming to a stop?

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## body electric (Aug 27, 2002)

GvFx said:


> You see your RPMs fluctuate a little at idle, after coming to a stop?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


yes, seems to idle rough like it's going through hesitation.


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## tbvvw (Jun 19, 2002)

From the last page, regarding my bulb out that doesn't give the exact bulb location in the display. 

I found the culprit, a side marker turn signal. Problem is/was it works 50% of the time. Issue fixed.


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

" i swear i didnt see it " wife side swiped a gas protector poll at a gas station 


















4800$, fully covered though  

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## skotti (Sep 27, 2005)

GvFx said:


> " i swear i didnt see it " wife side swiped a gas protector poll at a gas station
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Damn- I did the SAME thing about 8 years ago- although there was about 5" of snow pack with ice, and the cement pole was buried. Exact same damage.
Sucks.


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

skotti said:


> Damn- I did the SAME thing about 8 years ago- although there was about 5" of snow pack with ice, and the cement pole was buried. Exact same damage.
> Sucks.


Yuup, I was like "I hate you" hahaha. I had a 1k deductible oh well. 

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


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## vwlippy (Jul 17, 2001)

Smaller rad fan stopped working. 
Got a new one. Hope to put it in on Saturday.


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## MurkyRivers (Dec 4, 2016)

Had the roof rack on the car and my sons bike on the rack. My girl had forgotten the rack was on the car and attempted to pull into the garage.....

The bike attachment snapped in half and the rack got pushed back. Luckily the car or the rack wasnt damaged. Just the bike and the bike attachment.


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## Evo V (Dec 29, 2010)

vwlippy said:


> Smaller rad fan stopped working.
> Got a new one. Hope to put it in on Saturday.


You are lucky it's not hot outside. Mine quit in the middle of the summer. I did 1hr drive in traffic. Stopped to buy something and... the car couldn't start until cooled down 1 hr later.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

MurkyRivers said:


> Had the roof rack on the car and my sons bike on the rack. My girl had forgotten the rack was on the car and attempted to pull into the garage.....


Ouch! Tip: Bike goes on top, garage remote goes in trunk. Or place on object in parking spot in garage so you have to get out and move it.


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## MurkyRivers (Dec 4, 2016)

MisterJJ said:


> Ouch! Tip: Bike goes on top, garage remote goes in trunk. Or place on object in parking spot in garage so you have to get out and move it.


yeah, I normally drive when the rack is on for that reason but she wanted to go and get some shopping done after picking up the kiddo. 

Im buying the fork mount bike attachments this time. It will be low enough to fit in the garage if it happens again, although I think she is too afraid to even risk driving with the rack on.


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## SFBay-A3 (Aug 18, 2005)

vwlippy said:


> Smaller rad fan stopped working.
> Got a new one. Hope to put it in on Saturday.


I have the same problem on my 3.2. Is this hard to fix? Dealer quoted me over $1300 for parts and labor but I declined and will try to do this myself.


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## vwlippy (Jul 17, 2001)

SFBay-A3 said:


> I have the same problem on my 3.2. Is this hard to fix? Dealer quoted me over $1300 for parts and labor but I declined and will try to do this myself.


I bought the fan for $100. I saw a quick video online that made the swap look pretty easy. 
Hopefully I get to it tomorrow and I'll let you know for sure.


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## vwlippy (Jul 17, 2001)

Evo V said:


> You are lucky it's not hot outside. Mine quit in the middle of the summer. I did 1hr drive in traffic. Stopped to buy something and... the car couldn't start until cooled down 1 hr later.


True. I didn't even know it was bad until the shop told me when I took it in for inspection. 
Never overheated.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

changed front wheeel bearings, now I need a new steering rack and all asociated parts.


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## A3REDT (Mar 22, 2014)

Took the A3 on an 8 hour (there and back) trip last week; rolled over 110k on the way there! The car performed flawlessly the entire trip. Got back and now it is near impossible to get it in and out of gear when I first start it up and start driving it. Consistently from 1st-4th. It's always been a little notchy in the cold, but this feels almost like I'm trying to shift without putting the clutch in, unless I put it in really slowly, and then slowly pull it into neutral, and slowly slide it into the next gear. So I figured I probably got the trans fluid much hotter than I have in the past few years, maybe it was time to change it, so I took it to the dealership to see if they had heard of issues and to get the fluid changed. I heard the following possible causes: leaky slave cylinder, busted synchros, shifting linkage; oh, and the fluid is lifetime and they have NEVER heard of any problems with it. The VW dealership confirmed that they also have NEVER had any issues with the transmission setups in the GTIs. The problem goes away completely after maybe 5 minutes of driving the car, so I thought shift linkage was unlikely. The issue is only noticeable when its below 20 degF. Any ideas?


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## vwlippy (Jul 17, 2001)

SFBay-A3 said:


> I have the same problem on my 3.2. Is this hard to fix? Dealer quoted me over $1300 for parts and labor but I declined and will try to do this myself.


It might be a little different for the 3.2, but overall it was a pretty easy swap for the 2.0T. The hardest part was getting access to a bolt that was directly behind and AC line. 
Sounds like a lot of guys pulled the assembly out from the bottom, but I let the passenger side slide down then pulled the whole thing up from the drivers side of the fan.


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

parked and turning the key and felt a littel resistance. Got my burrito, walking back to my car and happy to be getting home. Put the key in and snap it turns part way and stops and it won't turn back. It's effing stuck. Wiggle, shake and crank but stuck. Eff this. well ate my burrtio in the cold, called a flatbed and towed it to the local audi. So much for a relaxing evening


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

Tcardio said:


> parked and turning the key and felt a littel resistance. Got my burrito, walking back to my car and happy to be getting home. Put the key in and snap it turns part way and stops and it won't turn back. It's effing stuck. Wiggle, shake and crank but stuck. Eff this. well ate my burrtio in the cold, called a flatbed and towed it to the local audi. So much for a relaxing evening


What was in the burrito?


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## sergecur99 (Sep 17, 2005)

Had the intake manifold replaced last week. Covered under extended part warranty.😎

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk


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## SFBay-A3 (Aug 18, 2005)

vwlippy said:


> It might be a little different for the 3.2, but overall it was a pretty easy swap for the 2.0T. The hardest part was getting access to a bolt that was directly behind and AC line.
> Sounds like a lot of guys pulled the assembly out from the bottom, but I let the passenger side slide down then pulled the whole thing up from the drivers side of the fan.


Thanks for the tip! Hope it is as easy for the 3.2 when I eventually get around to my repair.


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## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

Yay...


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Looks like a section of my exhaust pipe had the stainless coating fail and it started to rust out. The point where one of the hangars is welded to that section broke through and now I've got a big blowhole.



















Milltek exhaust btw. I imagine a shop will be able to weld in a new section.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> changed front wheeel bearings, now I need a new steering rack and all asociated parts.


post update: the steering rack was ok, it was worn-out tie rods that made the torque sensor to go wacko


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

BeeAlk said:


> Looks like a section of my exhaust pipe had the stainless coating fail and it started to rust out. The point where one of the hangars is welded to that section broke through and now I've got a big blowhole.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


post a sound clip for laughs. sorry though


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## grawk (May 26, 2002)

I have vibration that starts at about 65mph. I assume it's either control rods or CV joints. I think I've decided to hold onto my A3 for a year or better (it's a buyback TDI) so I'm going to take it to a shop to have it checked out.


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## dman4486 (Jun 22, 2011)

7k rpm in 6th at any speed. 









yup i went stage 1 today and am doing southbend stage 2 endurance,ae revision breather, and rear main seal Saturday. not a good start to this 1k mile trip.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Misfires on cylinder #3. Haven't had a chance to swap coil packs around to see if code follows.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Error followed coil pack. And they were doing so well. Dealer replaced them on TSB many years ago so they've probably got 120k+ miles on them. Looks like there's another new rev that came out recently, for more $$$, of course.


----------



## [email protected] (Aug 5, 2015)

ESP light came on and is staying on so now I get to deal with all of that fun.


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## body electric (Aug 27, 2002)

[email protected] said:


> ESP light came on and is staying on so now I get to deal with all of that fun.


definitely have it checked via vagcom. Maybe your ABS sensors might be dirty?


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## [email protected] (Aug 5, 2015)

body electric said:


> definitely have it checked via vagcom. Maybe your ABS sensors might be dirty?


Checked it this morning when I got to work and got codes 01435 -Brake Pressure Sensor 1 (G201) Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent, and P1847. Gonna try to dig a little deeper at lunch.


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## hpsims (Jun 17, 2016)

Started noticing it more this year since it's been colder more often than last... having some issues with cold start on A3 3.2. When it's very cold out (-15C and below), car seems to want to stall but catches itself when starting. Revs would go to 200rpm for a second or two before going back up to 800rpm. Once at 800rpm, it's stable, no bouncing around, doesn't shake, no misfires or codes. No issues when car is warm or outdoor temperature is warmer. Showed mechanic and thinks it maybe engine coolant temperature sensor getting wrong info causing wrong air/fluel mix at statup. Cheap fix if it is indeed the issue. Wonder what else can be. Pump primes, new battery, maybe MAF, dirty injectors (only use Vpower all the time). Posted link on youtube: 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jpzg86ravYQ&feature=youtu.be


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## A3REDT (Mar 22, 2014)

hpsims- that sounds exactly like an issue I had when my battery was low on acid of all things. I filled it with distilled water as a Band-Aid and it hadn't come back for the past two months while I waited to have the time to change out the battery. I do see you have a new one, but that's what worked for me.

As for what's wrong with mine- I changed my oil this weekend, and noticed that my CV axle boot had a nice little tear. I've noticed a little extra slack in the driveline for the past two weeks, as well as a noticeable clunk when de/accelerating in sharp right hand corners. So CV time...


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## hpsims (Jun 17, 2016)

A3REDT said:


> hpsims- that sounds exactly like an issue I had when my battery was low on acid of all things. I filled it with distilled water as a Band-Aid and it hadn't come back for the past two months while I waited to have the time to change out the battery. I do see you have a new one, but that's what worked for me.
> 
> As for what's wrong with mine- I changed my oil this weekend, and noticed that my CV axle boot had a nice little tear. I've noticed a little extra slack in the driveline for the past two weeks, as well as a noticeable clunk when de/accelerating in sharp right hand corners. So CV time...


I checked the battery and fluid levels are good and battery is new anyways. I did changed my engine coolant sensor for now. Will see if that fixes it. It's not a huge deal. It just happens when it's very cold out. Maybe will do an Italian tuneup before my next oil change as well.


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

G609 secondary air sensor out. 30 min fix and now no more cel. error 2432


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## grawk (May 26, 2002)

turn signals and tail lights all non-functioning.


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## Hendricks433 (Feb 11, 2017)

Just picked up a 2009 2.0T Quattro with 90K miles 3 weeks ago.

Passenger door started vibrating at low speeds/bumps and sounds loose when closing. Door grip broke inside near the unlock button.

Replaced my timing chain tensioner this past weekend and the CV joint is leaking.


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

grawk said:


> turn signals and tail lights all non-functioning.


I assume your horn is nonfunctioning and you have a cel present?


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## kskreider (Aug 12, 2016)

Rear Wiper Motor Blues. It has been acting wonky for a long time. I finally figured out how to remove the "boot panel" to access it and the entire inside of the door panel is blue from wiper fluid leaks. It was leaking from all around the seal of the motor. Today I yanked the motor and opened it up and holy crap it is a wonder this thing was working at all. Packed with dirty, sludgy grease and corrosion. I cleaned it up really good but the electrical contacts are just too corroded. It functions but only long enough for a the new one ordered from Amazon UK to arrive. $80 shipped the the door.


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

Having taillight burnout issues again, happened to many times.

Question: 

1. When you 2006-08ers were doing the LED tail swap out, you were talking about the resistors, or something like, that you had to install with the Euro tails.

2. October/November of 2010, about 8 month's after I replaced the 2006, I had a battery issue, took it to the dealer. It was dead on their service drive, so they jumped it, couldn't get it to start, and ended up frying the ECU, replaced under warranty.

?? If my battery issue fried the ECU, could it have damaged the resistors(?) in the taillights ???

Taillight and drivers door locked replaced Apr/May 2014 (passenger rear door lock's been going out for years  , but still works most of the time)
Taillights April 2015
Taillights June 2015 (also replaced bulb holders)
Taillights January 2016 (right rear hatch light and front right marker light)
Taillights March 2, 2017 (left rear brake light not fixed)

Battery's" Oct'10, Nov'12, Sep'14, and Jul'16

Other possible electrical related:
Thermostat at 55k miles (normal)
DSG Clutches replaced Sept'15

If I didn't like this car sooo much :heart:

Any wisdom is appreciated :beer::beer::beer:


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## vwlippy (Jul 17, 2001)

Turn signal out. Checked bulb and about a cup of water poured out of the (cracked at the seam) tail light. 
Time to check ebay for a used one....


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

A bit warmer today (80's) and the fans run full speed for a minute after shutting off engine.


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

hate my horns. thinking of placing black hella supertones behind the rs grill. should I or shouldn't I ?


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

Tcardio said:


> hate my horns. thinking of placing black hella supertones behind the rs grill. should I or shouldn't I ?


Why not go ahead and do the red ones, and get some rally armor while you're at it? 

If you're serious and want to avoid the Subaru bro look, you could probably mount them behind your impact bar so that they aren't seen. The black ones would probably blend in enough that even if you mounted them where they were visible they wouldn't stick out too much. Personally, I don't mind the look of them as long as they're a tasteful color...and it's hard to go wrong with black. Ultimately, you typically make pretty tasteful decisions when it comes to modifying your car so trust your gut and do what makes you happy. Just don't remove the LATCH anchors on the back of your rear seats.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Tcardio said:


> hate my horns. thinking of placing black hella supertones behind the rs grill. should I or shouldn't I ?





TBomb said:


> Why not go ahead and do the red ones, and get some rally armor while you're at it?
> 
> If you're serious and want to avoid the Subaru bro look, you could probably mount them behind your impact bar so that they aren't seen. The black ones would probably blend in enough that even if you mounted them where they were visible they wouldn't stick out too much. Personally, I don't mind the look of them as long as they're a tasteful color...and it's hard to go wrong with black. Ultimately, you typically make pretty tasteful decisions when it comes to modifying your car so trust your gut and do what makes you happy. Just don't remove the LATCH anchors on the back of your rear seats.


Unless you like the particular sound of Supertones (I think they're a little shrill), I wouldn't recommend them. They're quite directional so without putting them in the "ricer" location, for example behind the crash bar, you will lose a lot of the dBs getting out onto the road around you. 

Personally I'd do something like the Wolo 310-2T, which has a nice deep sound, doesn't look like it belongs behind the grille of a 17yr old's del Sol, and is way louder than OEM. It only draws 5amps as well, so it can go right up with the stock wiring and wont need a relay added or anything like most air horns would. This horn is also directional, but I don't think it would give that Pep Boys vibe like the Supertones give if it were behind your grille.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

BeeAlk said:


> Unless you like the particular sound of Supertones (I think they're a little shrill), I wouldn't recommend them. They're quite directional so without putting them in the "ricer" location, for example behind the crash bar, you will lose a lot of the dBs getting out onto the road around you.
> 
> Personally I'd do something like the Wolo 310-2T, which has a nice deep sound, doesn't look like it belongs behind the grille of a 17yr old's del Sol, and is way louder than OEM. It only draws 5amps as well, so it can go right up with the stock wiring and wont need a relay added or anything like most air horns would. This horn is also directional, but I don't think it would give that Pep Boys vibe like the Supertones give if it were behind your grille.


Just did a quick YouTube search and evidently you can have your ricer cake and eat it too. Hella Sharptones look as fly as the Supertones but sound like a real horn.


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## 2.0T Dan (Aug 14, 2012)

Car was slowly loosing coolant, took it in and they diagnosed it as a leaking waterpump  got a Q3 loaner for the meantime 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk


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## jumalian (Apr 16, 2015)

four O2 sensors + catalytic converter replacements for an 07 3.2 = $2100. awesome. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

jumalian said:


> four O2 sensors + catalytic converter replacements for an 07 3.2 = $2100. awesome.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Oh that hurts me FOR you.


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## jumalian (Apr 16, 2015)

justagirlandhercar said:


> Oh that hurts me FOR you.


yeah tell me about it. gotta do it though. my car may not be the prettiest or the fastest, but i still love my car.











Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Hendricks433 (Feb 11, 2017)

Got it back from dealer for ABS and Airbag recalls and got the PRNDS flash of death. Worked ok after a restart. Gonna check with Vagcom tomorrow and see whats up, really hoping its not the mechatronics.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Hendricks433 said:


> Got it back from dealer for ABS and Airbag recalls and got the PRNDS flash of death. Worked ok after a restart. Gonna check with Vagcom tomorrow and see whats up, really hoping its not the mechatronics.


You got a fix for the airbag recall?


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## Hendricks433 (Feb 11, 2017)

Yep.

When I took it in I looked on the Audi site and it said it wasn't ready or available but the guy at the dealer said they would do it and the final paper work says they swapped out the takata inflator.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Hendricks433 said:


> Yep.
> 
> When I took it in I looked on the Audi site and it said it wasn't ready or available but the guy at the dealer said they would do it and the final paper work says they swapped out the takata inflator.


You would be the very first A3 I've heard of being fixed.. not saying it isn't true, just hard to believe they had a fix.


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## Hendricks433 (Feb 11, 2017)

I'm a surprised as you. Unless the dealer is lying.


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## L_A_456 (Apr 8, 2011)

Check engine light came on again, usually driving into a strong wind. Throws a P0068 a couple of times but last night threw a B2800. Now the research begins.


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## L_A_456 (Apr 8, 2011)

Cleared those previous codes (P0068 and B2800) with the generic code reader, tonight I got a B2000 and B3800. From what i have read it looks like new thermostat and or coolant sensors. Gonna check with the VAG-COM time as soon as my tablet charges.


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## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

Friends! I need help! I'm selling my BLQs with the practically new tires on them. They're polished and ceramic coated. 18x8.5 et35. Probably about less than 5k on the tires. If that. They're pirelli p-zero tires. 205 40 18. I want $1000 for them. Is that unreasonable?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## unoudid (Nov 20, 2012)

Let's see...

- Rear wiper motor is constantly running. Guessing the motor needs replaced?
- When I opened the hood I noticed a nice crack in the washer fluid filler line. looks like that needs replaced.
- Weird flapping noise just started when I get above 60mph. no clue what's causing this. guessing I need to get the car into the shop.
- Some jackass decided to rub my front bumper with their car. now have a nice white paint stripe on my blue car.


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## A3-Owner (Aug 10, 2015)

My car is not a RS3 is what is wrong with my A3 today.......


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## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

This ... 










Looking for a bumper, grille, hood, and fog light surrounds.


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## jumalian (Apr 16, 2015)

justagirlandhercar said:


> Friends! I need help! I'm selling my BLQs with the practically new tires on them. They're polished and ceramic coated. 18x8.5 et35. Probably about less than 5k on the tires. If that. They're pirelli p-zero tires. 205 40 18. I want $1000 for them. Is that unreasonable?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


pics?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

unoudid said:


> Let's see...
> 
> - Rear wiper motor is constantly running. Guessing the motor needs replaced?
> - When I opened the hood I noticed a nice crack in the washer fluid filler line. looks like that needs replaced.
> ...


open the washer area as they leak after years of use and clean the connector and it should work correctly

I replaced the line only which is a very cheap part and not the bottle

if someone changed the oil then I suspect the belly pan is loose

can't fix jackasses


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

lausch said:


> This ...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


499 on ebay and just fix the hood


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## AngryGiraffe (Sep 21, 2014)

unoudid said:


> Let's see...
> 
> - Some jackass decided to rub my front bumper with their car. now have a nice white paint stripe on my blue car.


Get some rubbing compound and a wax towel. The white is just paint transfer from their bumper. There will probably still be some damage underneath but it should look better than it does right now.


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## unoudid (Nov 20, 2012)

Tcardio said:


> open the washer area as they leak after years of use and clean the connector and it should work correctly
> 
> I replaced the line only which is a very cheap part and not the bottle
> 
> ...


Is the washer area inside the hatch panel or on the exterior?

Did you order that from a dealer? I'm only finding replacements of the whole unit

I did just have the oil changed. I'll have to have the belly pan checked. it makes sense to me as to what would be causing that noise


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## justagirlandhercar (Apr 4, 2015)

Slight problem...the door is definitely closed.  pretty positive it's a wiring thing which is hurting my brain already.


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## bobbeck (Jan 4, 2001)

Changed the original N80 valve @ 228,200 miles.


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## Bezerker (Nov 12, 2013)

Getting this code that comes back after clearing. Gotta do a little more research into it...

Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8P0-820-043.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 820 043 AH HW: 8P0 820 043 AH
Component: KlimavollautomatH19 0420 
Revision: 093683 Serial number: 8P0820043AH 
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 72EBEB146D3A92D1EF-8026
1 Fault Found:
00796 - Fan for Interior Temp Sensor (V42) 
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101011
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 133
Mileage: 225606 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.05.11
Time: 13:49:23
Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 13.80 V
Temperature: 24.0°C


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

Finally broke the arm rest. It just wouldnt go down... it stayed locked in the up position... Most annoying thing in the car.... 

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


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## GohnJallo (Sep 20, 2016)

Had the timing chains done, along with the water pump and haldex fluid. Was perfect, dropped the car off and went fishing with the old man for a week. Except when I got back, found out the mechanic had to replace the radiator since he found a leak it it that had been sealing itself up but would've almost certainly blown out this summer. And, what I had thought to be an ABS issue has turned out to be something with the haldex system. Car starts and drives fine but within 10 minutes of driving there's a thud and a jerk and the traction control light comes out. Doesn't come back on when you restart the car. Battery is new. It's throwing the following codes which the mechanic was kind enough to give me, I couldn't leave the car there since I need to get to work.

01234 - Control Module fo All Wheel Drive (J492)
013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent

00448 - Haldex Clutch Pump (V181)
014 - Defective - Intermittent


I'm going to have some time tomorrow so I'll have the car up on jackstands and see if the wiring harness is beat up somewheres but other than that there's no much I can do besides look around online for anyone with similar problems. Should I just get a new control module or a new pump? I've been reading that "Mk1" haldex systems are prone to failure but I don't know what years are considered "Mk1", the car is a 2006, I can give you the VIN if that'll help in case there's some odd inter-year part variations. Please and thanks.


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## L_A_456 (Apr 8, 2011)

No Air Conditioning. Econ stays lit up, air won't kick on, doesn't sound like the compressor is working.:banghead:


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## Evo V (Dec 29, 2010)

L_A_456 said:


> No Air Conditioning. Econ stays lit up, air won't kick on, doesn't sound like the compressor is working.:banghead:


I had this last year in a hot summer days. Both fans had gone bad. I replaced the whole assembly and this fixed my issue.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

When it's hot out my fans will turn on full blast (both) shortly AFTER turning the ignition off. They will run full bore (very loud) for about a minute and then stop completely. This is not the usual running extra because the engine is hot. I haven't found a definitive answer about what exactly the problem is. All I find is people reporting the fans running constantly and never stopping or one fan running normal speed but the other fan not running at all.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

The list keeps growing:

Sunroof stopped responding to switch input
Driver's side window regulator crapped out (again)
Still have exhaust leak
Lights dim when I hit the brakes
Developed a slight front end shake

:facepalm:


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

bobbeck said:


> Changed the original N80 valve @ 228,200 miles.


I had mine replaced @ 80k miles.


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

Hendricks433 said:


> Just picked up a 2009 2.0T Quattro with 90K miles 3 weeks ago.
> 
> Passenger door started vibrating at low speeds/bumps and sounds loose when closing. Door grip broke inside near the unlock button.
> 
> Replaced my timing chain tensioner this past weekend and the CV joint is leaking.


2009 2.0T Quattro with 113k 

Re: timing chain tensioner, is there only one tensioner?

Thanks


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## AngryGiraffe (Sep 21, 2014)

Get the revision K tensioner. It's the most recent updated version of the tensioner. But at 113K you might want to look into doing the full service(chains/guides/tensioners/upper and lower covers) kit. There are a few places online that offer it all as a kit. It's the labor that's going to get you. I'm glad I had my tensioner done early on so I only had to get the lower cover and tensioner. Then again I plan on keeping the car for a while so I will probably end having to do the full kit when I hit 130K or so anyways


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

Thanks :beer:

Labor: It's the price you pay for relying on someone else :frown:


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## dp_motley (Nov 12, 2016)

Something is definitely wrong.

Skade 2 by Dmitrij Motley, on Flickr


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## Hendricks433 (Feb 11, 2017)

Called Audi because my DSG has been acting up. PRNDS light of death 3 times in the last 2 months. Tons of clunking, doesn't want to go into reverse.

Found out I have the 10 year 100,000 mile warranty extension on my transmission. Booked an appointment to take it in.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

MisterJJ said:


> When it's hot out my fans will turn on full blast (both) shortly AFTER turning the ignition off. They will run full bore (very loud) for about a minute and then stop completely. This is not the usual running extra because the engine is hot. I haven't found a definitive answer about what exactly the problem is. All I find is people reporting the fans running constantly and never stopping or one fan running normal speed but the other fan not running at all.


Replaced the easy-to-get-to coolant sensor on the side by the tranny... No luck. Might have to apply the usual fix. This should come standard in the tool kit:


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## sergecur99 (Sep 17, 2005)

*headliner*

Noticed yesterday the headliner starting to sag. Not sure if it can be replaced with the same material.:banghead:


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## Audi'sRevenge (Mar 24, 2008)

I haven't been here in years apparently--hello again! 

I still have my slow coolant-loss issue as I did back then. Never brought it in for this and now the warranty is over--wow how time flies these days. The bad news is the car still "consumes" a little bit of coolant. At first I was just topping it up with DI water, which I did like 2-3 times in the time I've owned it. It was never down very far, but always seemed to drop again over time. 

I recently noticed I was now below the min line (but still way higher than when the low coolant light comes on--if you see how deep the sensor goes you'll know what I mean--the surge tank needs to be almost empty for that to come on). So I bought a $30 bottle of G13 from the dealer now so I don't keep diluting it (small amounts sure, but over time it'll add up). 

I still have no clue where it's going--doesn't look like in oil, have never seen a leak on pavement or on garage floor, looked around at water pump, etc., nothing. Very weird.

The good news is the car has never went into the dealer or shop once for anything TBH--which is better than my 08 was (seat belt buckles, mechatronics woes, armrest latch, clicking front suspension, failed HPFP...failed injector out-of-warranty). Actually that's not totally true, it took one trip back to the dealer at 8000km for the complimentary first service (all maint. since then done by yours truly). 

That was it. Recently my armrest latch is half-broke again though--there is nothing that will stop that shoddy design from breaking unfortunately, and I had a bulb go out, nbd (now I can get LED plate lamps and install my reversing camera haha). It does have the airbag recall pending, though they've never told me to come in to replace it yet?

Overall, despite this still mysterious coolant disappearing act (only have to add every year or so), I'm overall a lot happier with this car than the previous one  

I recently did my DSG fluid change (bought the fill tool) and it was not as bad as I was expecting other than it amounting to a science experiment trying to figure out what was drained and what went back in. Even though the guy at the shop where I bought the fluid said I might have to change the filter housing (cap) because many cars leak afterwards, I've had no leaks since. 

Unfortunately due to job loss a couple years ago, a string of really crappy jobs, and general bad luck, I never got to do much with the car other than transferring the audio gear (removed from 08 after accident), installing an aftermarket intercooler (had in box and never installed in 08) and just this weekend installing the VEI gauge/NSW pod I'd also had in storage for years. Times got tough  so despite the car staying mostly stock I was lucky enough I didn't have to sell the car altogether. 

While this thread is obviously geared toward the "complaints" side, I think it's nice once in a while to remember we still have pretty nice cars and I for one am still quite happy with mine


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Audi'sRevenge said:


> I still have no clue where it's going--doesn't look like in oil, have never seen a leak on pavement or on garage floor, looked around at water pump, etc., nothing. Very weird.


Try laying off the DI... It's bad for you.. uh... your car. DI water will eat away at metal, although the anti-freeze probably negates it, which makes it useless anyway. Distilled will work just as well.

Look between the radiator and cooling fans for any signs of pink. Pretty common to have a small leak that just evaporates. I had a leak and pink buildup on the back of my radiator. It stopped leaking about 7 years ago and hasn't been a problem since.


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## Evo V (Dec 29, 2010)

The forums seems to shed lights on the problems with our cars as the owners try to find solutions. Gad you are happy with yours. I had mine for 7.5 years now and I think this is the perfect car for my life style. I don't post often on the forums but use them as a research tool. I am at 222 000 miles now and I'm keeping it for as long as I can. I do all maintenance and repairs myself. Pre-A3 I've only done brake jobs. Now DSG oil change and carbon buildup cleaning are routine maintenance. I just did 3rd carbon cleaning and I'm about to change the DSG oil for 5th time. I still receive compliments about the car occasionally especially by mechanics when I do early inspections.


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## Audi'sRevenge (Mar 24, 2008)

MisterJJ said:


> Try laying off the DI... It's bad for you.. uh... your car. DI water will eat away at metal, although the anti-freeze probably negates it, which makes it useless anyway. Distilled will work just as well.


? First time I've ever heard that. Every auto parts store I've ever been to, all the service manuals I've read, and many anti-freeze bottles say to use DI water as the mix with AF. (Granted the VW bottle actually does say distilled...)

DI water is typically lower in mineral content while distilled is lower in micro-organisms (bacteria, etc.) which are not important in cooling systems where the temperature alone kills these things quickly anyhow. DI water is typically higher in resistivity (lower in conductivity). Technically speaking you can have water distilled after de-ionisation and vice-versa but that's another story. 

DI water is typically better for automotive applications as far as I know. It's better in lead-acid batteries due to lower mineral content, and is typically the preferred stuff you find on the shelf beside the coolant at the parts store.

Distilled is preferred for lower-than-boiliing-point cooling sytems (like PC cooling) because those never get to temperatures like an internal combustion engine's cooling system would--in these, micro-organisms can multiply and sludge things up (algae is the most common).

In any event I don't think it really matters which is used and I've certainly never heard anything about DI eating away metal--water will do that regardless, that's where the glycol part comes in, with the corrosion inhibitors. Water itself is a better heat conductor (and thus better coolant), the only reason we need to use coolant/AF in cars is:
1. Corrosion protection
2. Freeze protection



MisterJJ said:


> Look between the radiator and cooling fans for any signs of pink. Pretty common to have a small leak that just evaporates. I had a leak and pink buildup on the back of my radiator. It stopped leaking about 7 years ago and hasn't been a problem since.


Hmm thanks for the tip. Would definitely have noticed something like that. I have looked around (I even had my bumper off last weekend) and there's nothing on the radiator or around any of the hoses I looked at. I don't really get it other than it's leaking at the head...but then, typically, it gets in the oil and forms a milky type of oil which I've never seen. Even the lighter-on-the-end-of-the-dipstick test does not turn up any significant water (no popping) in the oil and the car's been running fine for years (water in the oil would kill the engine a lot sooner than that). Perhaps it's getting burned off instead of getting a chance to get into the oil, since it's so little. Here's hoping it doesn't turn into something worse :|

My neighbour used to have an MB GL (purchased new, an MY10 I think) that did the same thing--"consumed coolant". His was a lease though and he since has another vehicle (maybe even two--I can never tell he always has some generic grey SUV, either MB or BMW) but pretty sure it was fine until he returned it, engine-wise.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Audi'sRevenge said:


> I've certainly never heard anything about DI eating away metal.


It won't bother aluminum but, by itself, it will dissolve copper and attack many other metals which are commonly used in various metal alloys. Deionized is just that... lacking ions. Anything that lacks ions will try to pull ions from elsewhere and things like copper give up their ions and corrode.

Here's a nice bit from NASA:

https://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/19690015779.pdf


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## Hendricks433 (Feb 11, 2017)

Dropped my A3 off at the dealer yesterday for my DSG issues and PRNDS flash of death. Got the call today and the transmission is covered and being replaced for free. It's being delivered by ground so gonna be in this 2017 A4 for a week or 2.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Hendricks433 said:


> Dropped my A3 off at the dealer yesterday for my DSG issues and PRNDS flash of death. Got the call today and the transmission is covered and being replaced for free. It's being delivered by ground so gonna be in this 2017 A4 for a week or 2. ??????




Good for ya, but this gets me pissed off all over again. I'm one of the very few that were excluded from the extended coverage so I had to drop $1k on a mechatronics and do the install. I've bought many VAG products over the years and have steered others towards VAG products. Now I refuse to buy another one and steer people away... Good job Audi!


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

dp_motley said:


> Something is definitely wrong.
> 
> Skade 2 by Dmitrij Motley, on Flickr


Bummer, dude!:thumbdown:


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## Audi'sRevenge (Mar 24, 2008)

Hendricks433 said:


> Dropped my A3 off at the dealer yesterday for my DSG issues and PRNDS flash of death. Got the call today and the transmission is covered and being replaced for free. It's being delivered by ground so gonna be in this 2017 A4 for a week or 2.


What year was yours and how many kms? How is the 2017 A4? I was never really a huge fan of the B8 and now with the B9 being slightly larger yet again, not sure I'd like it very much either. The decision to drop the DSG in the S4 in favour of a torque-converter auto, is also disappointing...but that's another story.

I met a guy with a 2012 in Wal-mart parking lot yesterday he was saying he had some transmission issues but his was a 2012 quattro...I though the warranty extensions were only for 2007-2011 cars? I told him to look into it but I'm imagining he didn't have the extended warranty and his conventional warranty is surely over by time already so yeah. I actually didn't even think 2012 cars would be affected at all.



MisterJJ said:


> Good for ya, but this gets me pissed off all over again. I'm one of the very few that were excluded from the extended coverage so I had to drop $1k on a mechatronics and do the install. I've bought many VAG products over the years and have steered others towards VAG products. Now I refuse to buy another one and steer people away... Good job Audi!


Oh right 06 cars weren't covered IIRC? Well If it's any consolation, my 08 which _did_ have the MU replaced under warranty...even after replacement I don't think it was ever totally/100% "right". I remember with that car I always thought they should have eliminated the "creep" feature altogether. With the current car I never really felt that way. I think the thing is if you have a working one, you never really notice/don't care. Though I don't particularly like the "creep" business, it's a lot slower and smoother in the car with the properly working gearbox.


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## Hendricks433 (Feb 11, 2017)

Audi'sRevenge said:


> Hendricks433 said:
> 
> 
> > Dropped my A3 off at the dealer yesterday for my DSG issues and PRNDS flash of death. Got the call today and the transmission is covered and being replaced for free. It's being delivered by ground so gonna be in this 2017 A4 for a week or 2.
> ...


Mine is a 2009 A3 Quattro with 96,500 miles. Bought it with 89,000 in January and started having issues in March. Around 91,000-92,000. Had to wait a month for an appointment after calling Audi.

The 2017 A4 is pretty nice but nothing special. Mainly just impressive interior upgrades. Makes some weird noises near the pedals at time. Not sure if it's switching modes or what. 

It's also a quite big, what the A6 used to be.


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## Audi'sRevenge (Mar 24, 2008)

Hendricks433 said:


> Mine is a 2009 A3 Quattro with 96,500 miles. Bought it with 89,000 in January and started having issues in March. Around 91,000-92,000. Had to wait a month for an appointment after calling Audi.


So you're getting an entire new trans, or just Mechatronics? Def. lucky to be in warranty still, either way.



Hendricks433 said:


> The 2017 A4 is pretty nice but nothing special. Mainly just impressive interior upgrades. Makes some weird noises near the pedals at time. Not sure if it's switching modes or what.
> 
> It's also a quite big, what the A6 used to be.


Yeah I know, just keeps getting bigger year after year. I think with the A3 being a sedan for a few years now it basically gave them carte blanche to make the A4 even bigger  

Always preferred the A3 to the A4, even when it was a hatch only. But then I'm one of those people that "doesn't get" large cars...a lot of ppl like them better somehow  I love how you can basically get a loaded up S3 for the price of a base S4 as well  I don't get why S3s aren't a lot more popular TBH. Though of course I'd love to buy one of _those_, I don't think that'd be happening for another 4-5 years. Oh well.


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## Hendricks433 (Feb 11, 2017)

Audi'sRevenge said:


> Hendricks433 said:
> 
> 
> > Mine is a 2009 A3 Quattro with 96,500 miles. Bought it with 89,000 in January and started having issues in March. Around 91,000-92,000. Had to wait a month for an appointment after calling Audi.
> ...


They're replacing the whole transmission is what the person told me. Shipping by ground so it'll take a week alone for them to get it.

Yea I'm torn on small va big cars. I preferred the 2017 A3 I had when it was in the for the ABS recall.

Really wish they made the A3 with something other than the e-tron here in the US.


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## vwgliin05 (Aug 1, 2006)

Stupid p0171 can not find the problem which is throwing the car into limp mode. Also p2181 cause the temp gauge on the dash isn't working but car remains at proper temperature, new ect but i guess the thermostat is next Idk


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## Audi'sRevenge (Mar 24, 2008)

vwgliin05 said:


> Stupid p0171 can not find the problem which is throwing the car into limp mode. Also p2181 cause the temp gauge on the dash isn't working but car remains at proper temperature, new ect but i guess the thermostat is next Idk


What engine do you have? P0171 can be fueling issue--bad injector, bad HPFP, FPR. Are you just doing a generic OBD-II scan or do you have VCDS or similar?


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## risottto (Jun 13, 2017)

*Sightly annoying little things ....*

APR downpipe bracket seems slightly rattly when starting in 1st when I don't give it enough gas. Turn on the radio or AC full blast and you can't hear it. Local APR guys say it wont get worse .... so _ignore!_

Front brakes with new pads and rotors ... ever so quietly groan when coming to a stop. Really have to listen to hear it, maybe it's just the Brembo pads?

Rear driver's tail light has some condensation in it, will get around to popping it off and checking for leaks sometime, in the meanwhile not going to go though any automatic car washes. 

Catalytic converter efficiency readiness is not set, pretty sure it's the APR high flow cat, NY allows on monitor not ready so _ignore!_

overall really happy with it. I stripped the fish scale off the door trim inserts which were torn up pretty bad and wrapped it in Avery brushed silver vinyl, looks better than stock IMO. Replaced beat up driver window switches, and the window regulator on the rear driver door, all working flawlessly now.

Eventually would like to fix the rips in the driver's seat, but the local trim shop quoted $400-$500 to match and replace the torn panels. Keeping an eye out for any cheap seats or covers on ebay, but refuse to pay retail for an OEM seat cover ($500+ each bottom and back)


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## Hawkman312 (Nov 4, 2016)

risottto said:


> Front brakes with new pads and rotors ... ever so quietly groan when coming to a stop. Really have to listen to hear it, maybe it's just the Brembo pads?


This is normal and should last for a few hundred miles and/or until the new pads get bedded in properly.


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## bitzer (May 30, 2006)

At low speeds in reverse and forward when turning either left or right, there is a groaning/creaking sound. From what I dug up on the search it could be a whole host of things, anti roll bar, control arm bushings, steering column and/or rack, cv joint, power steering pump. Checked the power steering fluid level and its full.


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## skotti (Sep 27, 2005)

bitzer said:


> At low speeds in reverse and forward when turning either left or right, there is a groaning/creaking sound. From what I dug up on the search it could be a whole host of things, anti roll bar, control arm bushings, steering column and/or rack, cv joint, power steering pump. Checked the power steering fluid level and its full.


I have something similar, if not the same, in my 2006 with 90K miles. I notice it same as you- I am backing into/pulling out of my garage when I hear it (slow speed, turning). Mine almost sounds like something clicking- I suspected a CV but nope, they are fine. Nothing found with a visual inspection. I tend to think mine is related to steering.

I suppose now I either start replacing stuff that could be the cause, or wait for something to break.


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## AngryGiraffe (Sep 21, 2014)

skotti said:


> I have something similar, if not the same, in my 2006 with 90K miles. I notice it same as you- I am backing into/pulling out of my garage when I hear it (slow speed, turning). Mine almost sounds like something clicking- I suspected a CV but nope, they are fine. Nothing found with a visual inspection. I tend to think mine is related to steering.
> 
> I suppose now I either start replacing stuff that could be the cause, or wait for something to break.


I have the same problem with my 2010. I only notice it with slow speed turning and it clicks. Haven't had time to put it on a lift and check it yet.


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## vwgliin05 (Aug 1, 2006)

Audi'sRevenge said:


> What engine do you have? P0171 can be fueling issue--bad injector, bad HPFP, FPR. Are you just doing a generic OBD-II scan or do you have VCDS or similar?


I have the BPY , specifically 010952, engine code, I do have access to a VCDS but also my own OBD II scanner. When using the VCDS at a friends shop it didn't help much with the problem, ill try and get that info. Did replace the the DV and pcv but had to put the pcv delete kit back on cause when the brand new pcv was installed it made the car runs worse. So odd, the car has been smoked tested with no result to find a vacuum leak, clear the code car runs perfect but than after 30 miles it kicks into limp mode, maybe wastegate issue? Haven't heard any clinking around though? Any help would be great. The 2181 code is odd too, clear the code the gauge works fine and will for a few days than stops working, did notice an abnormally high coolant level in the reservoir. Replaced the ECT just hoping to avoid the thermostat. Thanks guys.


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## 801_Bri (Jun 20, 2008)

Well this just happened, anyone else have their handle break off the cable on the hood release?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

You're lucky it happened on the handle end and not on the latch under the hood. I knew a guy who had that happen on his a4.. talk about PITA to fix.

My handle always feels like it's flexing way too much and I worry it'll snap at some point. We all know how the plastics in these cars hold up with age...


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## Hendricks433 (Feb 11, 2017)

3 weeks later and finally got my car back. Shifts so smooth, like butter. It's like a new car.


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## Ratfester (Jul 10, 2008)

- Two of the little rubber pieces in my cup holder tore and the springs pushed through. I think the dealer wanted $250 for an entire new cup holder assembly so I'll just be dealing with it. 
- Backed into a trash can and tore my drivers side mirror off. The aluminum(?) mount broke, mirror and housing are fine. JB Weld and it's as good as new, we'll see how long that lasts.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Ratfester said:


> JB Weld and it's as good as new, we'll see how long that lasts.


If it's anything like most of my JB Weld repairs, 20 years from now when the car is at the junkyard and the giant car crushing machine comes down on that mirror bracket... BOOM! broken car crusher!


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## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

Bulb replacement in 2007 with bi-xenon adaptive headlights. True story.


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## vms150 (Mar 28, 2008)

Ratfester said:


> - Two of the little rubber pieces in my cup holder tore and the springs pushed through. I think the dealer wanted $250 for an entire new cup holder assembly so I'll just be dealing with it.


https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-A3-FWD-2.0T/Interior/Center_Console/Cup_Holder/


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## Barn01 (Feb 26, 2011)

Broken spring and bearing


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Barn01 said:


> Broken spring and bearing


Jeebus! Salt the roads much?


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## sergecur99 (Sep 17, 2005)

Making a squealing noise from the engine









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## Barn01 (Feb 26, 2011)

MisterJJ said:


> Jeebus! Salt the roads much?


Ya I live in Ottawa ON and they salt the roads a LOT up here. It's the only way to keep the black ice under control.


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## Audi'sRevenge (Mar 24, 2008)

skotti said:


> I have something similar, if not the same, in my 2006 with 90K miles. I notice it same as you- I am backing into/pulling out of my garage when I hear it (slow speed, turning). Mine almost sounds like something clicking- I suspected a CV but nope, they are fine. Nothing found with a visual inspection. I tend to think mine is related to steering.
> 
> I suppose now I either start replacing stuff that could be the cause, or wait for something to break.


Clicking while turning at low speeds, particularly over small inclines like a driveway is often caused on older models due to loosened/slightly backed out subframe bolts, IIRC. I remember I had this problem on my 08 car and people were saying it's common on PQ35 cars including the Passat. The solution is to install some anti-rotation washers that were part of a TSB. I never found anything visually either but then again I never got around to installing those washers because before it got warm again, the car was in an accident  so I never investigated further.

This _may_ be your issue, try searching for Passat TSB for this same problem and you should find the washers I'm talking about.


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## Barn01 (Feb 26, 2011)

skotti said:


> I have something similar, if not the same, in my 2006 with 90K miles. I notice it same as you- I am backing into/pulling out of my garage when I hear it (slow speed, turning). Mine almost sounds like something clicking- I suspected a CV but nope, they are fine. Nothing found with a visual inspection. I tend to think mine is related to steering.
> 
> I suppose now I either start replacing stuff that could be the cause, or wait for something to break.


Two things come to mind when you combine clicking and turning. 

1) If you still hearing the clicking/crunching sound while turning the wheel from lock to lock while in park, then it's likely your strut bearing. I just replaced mine, not fun.
2) If you hear clicking while going over bumps at low speeds then it could be your stabilizer end links They are prone to failure on this car. I'm on my 3rd set. These are cheap and easy to replace.


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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

sergecur99 said:


> Making a squealing noise from the engine
> Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk


Sound like it needs a breather valve. If it is very difficult to remove the oil fill cap while the engine idles, confirmation. Additionally, you may still hear air passing through the engine for a couple seconds after you shut it off. Easier to hear with hood open. There is a weep hole for the diaphragm in the round cap of the breather, if air is being sucked in through it then triple confirmation. You can block off the hole with a finger and the noise will change with maybe an improvement of idle quality. 

It may eventually set faults for oil pressure and high side fuel pressure due to irregular idle speed so don't worry about them if theres new codes before you get it fixed. Judging by your listed MY it's probably this guy: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/separator/06h103495ah/


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## sergecur99 (Sep 17, 2005)

Audi_Mechanic said:


> Sound like it needs a breather valve. If it is very difficult to remove the oil fill cap while the engine idles, confirmation. Additionally, you may still hear air passing through the engine for a couple seconds after you shut it off. Easier to hear with hood open. There is a weep hole for the diaphragm in the round cap of the breather, if air is being sucked in through it then triple confirmation. You can block off the hole with a finger and the noise will change with maybe an improvement of idle quality.
> 
> It may eventually set faults for oil pressure and high side fuel pressure due to irregular idle speed so don't worry about them if theres new codes before you get it fixed. Judging by your listed MY it's probably this guy: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/separator/06h103495ah/


Thank you so much. Just picked up the part today. Looked online for steps to replace it and looks straight forward. Already ready moved the coils 3 and 4 for access to the the screws and released the 2 connected hoses. Will install on Monday. 

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk


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## Audilove88 (Sep 26, 2016)

I need some tails!


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

Noise in engine compartment. I think it is the engine cover (w/o air filter). 

How do take off the cover?

Just pull up?


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## skotti (Sep 27, 2005)

Yes- BUT- Look at this DIY so you don't break/crack it https://oooo-a3.blogspot.com/2008/01/how-to-remove-engine-cover-stock-airbox.html
I put some grease on the connecting points to make it easier the next time I needed to remove it.


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## bangarng (Aug 24, 2017)

Intermittent puttering at idle when the engine is warmed up. The engine sounds like it's gasping for air, which you can see move when it happens, which causes the RPM to drop juuuust a smidge, which shakes the entire car, which makes the exhaust note skip a beat. No engine codes and it still pulls hard.


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## Barn01 (Feb 26, 2011)

bangarng said:


> Intermittent puttering at idle when the engine is warmed up. The engine sounds like it's gasping for air, which you can see move when it happens, which causes the RPM to drop juuuust a smidge, which shakes the entire car, which makes the exhaust note skip a beat. No engine codes and it still pulls hard.


Could be your PCV is stuck


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## bangarng (Aug 24, 2017)

Barn01 said:


> Could be your PCV is stuck


Thank you I will check that out!

Edit: Holy **** I just googled how to replace that on a 3.2. What a pain in the ass!

Here is a youtube video of the engine and exhaust note. You can first hear what I'm talking about at 6 seconds, then 9, 13, 16, 24, 25, 37, 40, 46, 50, and 53:
https://youtu.be/ge9EDjYpCIs

And here is a video of the rpm dropping ever so slightly making the car shake:
https://youtu.be/vQ1vprXnT7Y

WTF right?


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

azoceanblue said:


> Noise in engine compartment. I think it is the engine cover (w/o air filter).
> 
> How do take off the cover?
> 
> Just pull up?


Not the engine cover...the dealership used body putty and the top engine cover is still snug (the connector on the right side would not seat).

A little history...I just had my 115k mile service and timing chain service (yes, $$$$).

Ever since since this service, i have been having a plastic rattle beginning at about 25mph to 40mph, but this plastic rattle can now be heard at highways speeds.

It could be the underneath splash guard...the more I look at the splash guard, it does not look like the stock splash guard. I looked up the splash guard online and the splash guard on my car looks nothing like the picture. Could the dealership have accidentally thrown my splash guard away and put another splash guard for another model (TT) on my car, hoping I would not notice?

The splash guard does not look like the same one that was on the car before the service...Anyone got a picture of of their splash guard?

Thanks :beer:


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

I have moved on from the splash guard...

I know the noise I hear is coming from directly in front of me while driving...plastic circular noise...

Tonight, after arriving home, I heard an electrical hum from the front of the engine compartment, but the fan(s) did not come on. Could the noise be coming from a bad radiator fan(s)?

No way for anyone to answer, I’ll have to have them checked out.

Do the fans run while moving or only after the car is stopped or parked?


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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

Is the lid for the air intake snorkel still in place? Sometimes the lid falls into the fans and only makes noise when the fans run. With the engine idling turn on the a/c, this should get the fans to operate and allow you to check them. With everything off you can check behind the fan blades with a flashlight. 

Tires could be rubbing against the fender liners, check them for wear marks. Check front wheel weights to see if they are rubbing against brake calipers.


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## Barn01 (Feb 26, 2011)

Also check if you have a ripped CV boot. It could be so bad that it's touching a brake rotor or inside rim. Also check the inside boot, it's less likely to be ripped but if so then it could be rubbing on stationary parts and or plastic from the wheel well.

As for the noise you hear when shutting off the car. I get that too sometimes and I can't remember what it is but unless you are throwing codes then I won't worry as much about that. Fix the rubbing sound first.


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

Audi_Mechanic said:


> Is the lid for the air intake snorkel still in place? Sometimes the lid falls into the fans and only makes noise when the fans run. With the engine idling turn on the a/c, this should get the fans to operate and allow you to check them. With everything off you can check behind the fan blades with a flashlight.
> 
> Tires could be rubbing against the fender liners, check them for wear marks. Check front wheel weights to see if they are rubbing against brake calipers.


Thanks, I’ll check these possibilities out.


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

Barn01 said:


> Also check if you have a ripped CV boot. It could be so bad that it's touching a brake rotor or inside rim. Also check the inside boot, it's less likely to be ripped but if so then it could be rubbing on stationary parts and or plastic from the wheel well.
> 
> As for the noise you hear when shutting off the car. I get that too sometimes and I can't remember what it is but unless you are throwing codes then I won't worry as much about that. Fix the rubbing sound first.


Thanks, I’ll look at this too.


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## A3 Wannabe (Feb 22, 2017)

Driver's side rear brake and turn signal lights are out- went to change to new bulbs and they don't work, so the problem must be either in wiring somewhere...or a fuse, if there even is a fuse for rear lights. I have to do some wire repair in the driver's door already (rear d-side door doesn't lock, but others do, and I'm 99% sure I have a broken wire in the harness where the door hinge is. Anyone know if the rear lights run through that same spot?


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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

A3 Wannabe said:


> Driver's side rear brake and turn signal lights are out- went to change to new bulbs and they don't work, so the problem must be either in wiring somewhere...or a fuse, if there even is a fuse for rear lights. I have to do some wire repair in the driver's door already (rear d-side door doesn't lock, but others do, and I'm 99% sure I have a broken wire in the harness where the door hinge is. Anyone know if the rear lights run through that same spot?


A door lock malfunction is usually caused by a failing door lock unit. Checking for trouble codes may help. 

Using good bulbs/correct bulbs? Crappy or wrong bulbs obviously aren't any good, where did you get them? Unplug the electrical connector to the bulb holder to see if any of the pins are burnt. I think the electrical system control module J519 or comfort module J393 powers the bulbs off a duty cycle. No direct fuse for the bulbs, fuses to just the control module.


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## A3 Wannabe (Feb 22, 2017)

Audi_Mechanic said:


> A door lock malfunction is usually caused by a failing door lock unit. Checking for trouble codes may help.
> 
> Using good bulbs/correct bulbs? Crappy or wrong bulbs obviously aren't any good, where did you get them? Unplug the electrical connector to the bulb holder to see if any of the pins are burnt. I think the electrical system control module J519 or comfort module J393 powers the bulbs off a duty cycle. No direct fuse for the bulbs, fuses to just the control module.


Thanks for weighing in, Audi_Mechanic. Turned out to be none of the above. PO installed LED daytime running lights that are on anytime the key is in the ignition, and must be drawing power away from, well, everything. I had my climate control on auto since it's gotten chilly out, happened to turn it off and POOF, the brake light and turn signal worked again. Later on, the side light was showing up as out, but that went away, too. Annoying! Thought- would switching to LED bulbs draw less power, possibly alleviating the problem?


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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

How would low current drawing LED daytime running lamps at the front of the car affect a door lock or tail lights that are on the opposite side of the car? That would be like plugging in a vacuum or phone charger into a 12V socket causing the same problems. Where were those DRLs wired into, a control module circuit? Scan for trouble codes? Have you physically checked the bulbs & bulb holders for burn marks? Sometimes bulb filaments get loose and lose contact, vibration cuts or corrects the circuit. If a marker lamp goes out sometimes you can smack the area and the bulb will illuminate or go out again. Since bulbs are on control module circuits, generic LED replacements tend to result in trouble codes and warnings since their internal resistance is different than the appropriate bulb. You can get rid of bulb issues by buying them at a dealership's parts counter, with VIN in hand. Ensures correct type and quality. If you know the correct type, buy name brand at an auto parts store, like phillips or osram, avoid bulbs with brass housings.

Sometimes door lock problems go away for a while. A couple years ago the driver's door in my GTI intermittently wouldn't unlock, I held onto a replacement unit for about a year since the problem mostly went away. When it cropped up again I then replaced it. I come across the same thing on customer's cars, concerns about central locking issues that can't always be reproduced, but trouble codes are stored. If your door lock started working again, hold off on replacement until it starts failing again, if you don't store anything of value in your car.


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## tbvvw (Jun 19, 2002)

Speaking of lights going out, the "bulb out" service light is on for a headlight on my bi-xenon/self leveling 2007 A3 3.2Q. The main headlights work fine, however the high beam does not on the passenger side? I can replace just about any bulb myself and have done so on both my A3s many times but never a headlight. Any ideas/suggestions?


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## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

tbvvw said:


> I can replace just about any bulb myself and have done so on both my A3s many times but never a headlight. Any ideas/suggestions?


On my 2007 2.0T FWD with bi-xenons, I had to go through the fender wells. True story.


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## oldmandt (Dec 26, 2006)

Squeaking front bushings everywhere....strut towers....control arms....sway bar.....:facepalm::thumbdown:


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## tbvvw (Jun 19, 2002)

lausch said:


> On my 2007 2.0T FWD with bi-xenons, I had to go through the fender wells. True story.


I am fine with whatever it takes, however that's the only way to replace those bulbs? You can't just pull them from up top with the hood open? Hmmm


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## lausch (Mar 29, 2002)

tbvvw said:


> You can't just pull them from up top with the hood open?


If you find an easier way, do be sure to post a write up.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

lausch said:


> If you find an easier way, do be sure to post a write up.


It depends on how dainty and dexterous your hands are :laugh: I have been able to replace the bulbs in my bi-xenons from up top but it usually involves a lot of swearing and scratched up hands.


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## kskreider (Aug 12, 2016)

It must be headlamp season. Left low beam out on mine. If I have to pull the front wheel well off I am considering going HID or LED. Too much to read through...


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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

kskreider said:


> It must be headlamp season. Left low beam out on mine. If I have to pull the front wheel well off I am considering going HID or LED. Too much to read through...


Sometimes aftermarket HID kits kill the windshield wiper control module, so do thorough research before buying.


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## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

Audi_Mechanic said:


> Is the lid for the air intake snorkel still in place? Sometimes the lid falls into the fans and only makes noise when the fans run. With the engine idling turn on the a/c, this should get the fans to operate and allow you to check them. With everything off you can check behind the fan blades with a flashlight.
> 
> Tires could be rubbing against the fender liners, check them for wear marks. Check front wheel weights to see if they are rubbing against brake calipers.





Barn01 said:


> Also check if you have a ripped CV boot. It could be so bad that it's touching a brake rotor or inside rim. Also check the inside boot, it's less likely to be ripped but if so then it could be rubbing on stationary parts and or plastic from the wheel well.
> 
> As for the noise you hear when shutting off the car. I get that too sometimes and I can't remember what it is but unless you are throwing codes then I won't worry as much about that. Fix the rubbing sound first.


Turned out to be the Left Front Wheel Bearing - only took 6 visits, free visit-the first 5, to diagnose the problem. I understand a couple visits, the bearing is beginning to go out; the bearing noise is not heard on a consistent basis, but 6 visits?

ALSO a biggie, P2015 Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor Circuit Range Performance Fault Code --- dealer replaced Intake Manifold --- Wait for IT ---




On the way home from work, the engine shutters, coughs, and spits; producing a flashing check engine light, which goes out after about 1/2 mile; then a EPC CEL lights up and stays on.

Towed to dealer last night and dealer provided a loaner this morning --- did not receive another call today.

Fingers crossed, I hope they cover the repair.

:wave:


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## Barn01 (Feb 26, 2011)

azoceanblue said:


> Turned out to be the Left Front Wheel Bearing - only took 6 visits, free visit-the first 5, to diagnose the problem. I understand a couple visits, the bearing is beginning to go out; the bearing noise is not heard on a consistent basis, but 6 visits?
> 
> ALSO a biggie, P2015 Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor Circuit Range Performance Fault Code --- dealer replaced Intake Manifold --- Wait for IT ---
> 
> ...


Wasn't there a recall on the manifold runner motors? They replaced mine at no charge a couple of years ago. 

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----------



## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

My was replaced in April 2015. I thought this replacement should have covered, but it wasn’t. The intake manifold shouldn’t fail every 2 to 4 years...


----------



## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

azoceanblue said:


> On the way home from work, the engine shutters, coughs, and spits; producing a flashing check engine light, which goes out after about 1/2 mile; then a EPC CEL lights up and stays on.
> 
> Towed to dealer last night and dealer provided a loaner this morning --- did not receive another call today.
> 
> ...


#4 Fuel Injector—Dealer covered, yeah!


----------



## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

Barn01 said:


> Wasn't there a recall on the manifold runner motors? They replaced mine at no charge a couple of years ago.


The older timing belt driven 2.0T uses an electric motor to adjust the intake manifold flaps, older part #s were replaced during a campaign. Extended warranty applied for the adjuster motor on BPY/BPG/BWT engine codes, up to at least 2007 MY for I think 10yr/120k miles; don't remember if 08-09 are covered.



azoceanblue said:


> My was replaced in April 2015. I thought this replacement should have covered, but it wasn’t. The intake manifold shouldn’t fail every 2 to 4 years...


Some MY A3s with chain driven 2.0T have an extended warranty for the intake manifold, they fail often on those with the extension; 10yr/120k mi I think. There have been A3s where the manifold I was installing was the car's 3rd or 4th in its lifetime. Manifold flaps are adjusted by a vacuum motor which is controlled by a simple vacuum solenoid valve. I think they get excessive wear in the flap system or the solenoid valve malfunctions some how, don't know why.



azoceanblue said:


> #4 Fuel Injector—Dealer covered, yeah!


A 10yr/120k mile extended warranty for fuel injectors is present for certain model years on various Audis with the chain driven 2.0T. Audi will only pay for fuel injectors if misfire DTCs are present for specific cylinders, and only the affected injectors, not all four. So if another fuel injector fails, don't blame the dealer for having to go back a 3rd time. If time between fuel injector failures is short, they might be able to get approval to replace the remaining under warranty.


----------



## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

I’m @ 123,000, so the extended warranty does me no good, unless the extension begins after they replaced my intake manifold @ 80,000 miles under the extended warranty program. 

I have never had an intake manifold fail on any car I have owned. Is this fail specific to the TFSI engines? Or possibility, the failure is due to the the materials used in newer car, i. e. plastic (like) compounds?

I am thankful that my dealer covered the fuel injector. Is there any way the injector failed due a fuel line picking up contaminates during the intake manifold replacement?

As always, thanks for answering our questions ^5


----------



## dkenn75 (May 22, 2008)

2006 A3 at 148K where to start...

- Remote key fob no longer locks/unlocks doors - have to use the flip key manually to lock/unlock driver door. And when locking manually, the passenger door won't lock, so I have to turn the manual lock switch on the inside seal of the passenger door, so that's pretty annoying.

- Automatic windows have a mind of their own. Usually drivers side window locks up attempting to roll down. Some days are worse than others.

- Obnoxious "pinging" noise under heavy load going up steep grades at higher RPM's. I have a brand new (~10K) catalytic converter but it certainly sounds like it's coming from the middle/rear below connected to the exhaust.

- Also obnoxious, what sounds like my cv boots are completely dried out causing an annoying rubber whining noise at full turn, slow speeds. Silicone spray has fixed this in the past but it never lasts a week.

- To top it all off, my Neuspeed RSB cracked in half exiting out of a parking garage so that's kind of just dangling in two pieces below the rear bumper. :banghead:

It is an 11 year old car so maybe I shouldn't be too surprised all the high mileage issues...


----------



## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

azoceanblue said:


> As always, thanks for answering our questions ^5


My understanding is that warranty extensions are very specific to what they cover and for how long; terms start from the in-service date (when first sold) and mileage is maximum from 0. If a failure happens past either time or mileage, Audi won't pay, not even goodwill. If repair was performed recently, I think a 12 month/12,000 mile parts warranty will be applied from the date of repair. Say the manifold was replaced at 118,239 miles with 3 months to go before the 10 years is up, warranty coverage will apply up to 130,239 mi or additional 9 months, whichever occurs first. We have an employee that directly deals with warranty claims that I can go to if im not 100% on something, so I apologize ahead of time if my information is incorrect. If your manifold was replaced at 80k mi then you are obviously past the 12k parts warranty.

The plastic intake manifolds on the older timing belt engines have been reliable, minus the failure prone electric adjuster motor which has since been fixed with a recall. The early model years for chain driven 2.0T intake manifolds are a little crappy, they don't fail nearly as often as their fsi fuel injectors, maybe 1-10% as much. Yeah plastic isn't a completely durable material for an intake manifold but making the same out of aluminum would be very difficult and cost prohibitive. Moving parts complicates things greatly, plastic molding techniques makes things much easier to manufacture on large scale. Having to cast an aluminum manifold that you then have to machine before assembling the flap system is costly. Plastic molding more easily meets dimension and texture requirements. Everything VW group has loads of black plastic everywhere, so long term reliability isn't something I see their products are going to be known for any time soon.

Those FSI injectors are a pain to deal with because of how they can randomly fail after performing a repair. It's possible that they were contaminated, it's possible that the tech maybe broke one trying to pry the manifold off the head, or while prying the injectors out of the fuel rail. Or the injector just decided it didn't like being touched and said so long cruel world. Sometimes the fuel injectors come out the cylinder head and stay stuck inside the fuel rail (which is attached to the intake manifold) keeping them safe from contamination. Contamination could have occurred during inector seals replacement, but that would need some carelessness to achieve that. I would bet more on the injector just failing on its own, or possibly from being disturbed like how ignition coils used to fail from being disturbed after spark plug replacement. If they cleaned the intake ports/valves of carbon whIle the manifold was out, and the injectors stayed in the head after removing the manifold, and the tech didn't cover the injectors during cleaning, then gunk could have got in the injector. Did they do a carbon cleaning?


----------



## skotti (Sep 27, 2005)

dkenn75 said:


> - Also obnoxious, what sounds like my cv boots are completely dried out causing an annoying rubber whining noise at full turn, slow speeds. Silicone spray has fixed this in the past but it never lasts a week.
> 
> - To top it all off, my Neuspeed RSB cracked in half exiting out of a parking garage so that's kind of just dangling in two pieces below the rear bumper. :banghead:


THat happened to mine a few years ago- I contacted Nuespeed and they replaced it for free- all I had to do was return the old one.


----------



## azoceanblue (Aug 13, 2006)

RE: Carbon cleaning-they were supposed to, I would have to check the invoice. ^5


----------



## dkenn75 (May 22, 2008)

skotti said:


> THat happened to mine a few years ago- I contacted Nuespeed and they replaced it for free- all I had to do was return the old one.


Just contacted them and they're doing the same for me! :thumbup:


----------



## sergecur99 (Sep 17, 2005)

Hit my girlfriend's Mercedes backing out of driveway. Looks like a bumper repaint for both cars.









Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk


----------



## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

Passenger headlight internal wires are all frayed/disintegrating.


----------



## kevichar (Nov 15, 2002)

Dash light shows right brake light out even though they look like they are on. 

Sent from my SM-G530W using Tapatalk


----------



## knaviaux (May 12, 2009)

*Transmission Replaced*

Took my '09 A3 2.0T Quattro in to a independent shop for the 75k service. The shop noted the transmission had an issue (clunking when put in reverse) and wanted to replace a failing mechatronic unit for $2.2k. Since I had the 10yr/100k extended warranty from AoA, I took it to my local Audi dealer for diagnosis. First response was transmission was failing and it wasn't covered by warranty. I pulled out the letter AoA sent me back in 2009 stating any issue with the s-tronic transmission would be repaired at no cost. After checking with AoA, they're replacing the entire transmission under warranty.

Makes me both happy and pissed. Happy that it is being replaced and AoA provided the 10yr/100k warranty, pissed that a car that is less than 9 years old with only 72.5k miles has a failing transmission. I'm not a hard driver, treated it well, and had all maintenance done per schedule (actually have done the oil changes every 5k instead of 10k although that has nothing to do w/ the transmission). At first thought it was a fluke, then looked online at all the issues folks have had with the DSG from the '08-'10 build years. While my issue doesn't appear to be associated with the mechatronics recall, it is apparent that Audi DSG transmission quality/reliability was quite poor during this period.

Stood in line last year to put my $1k deposit on a Tesla Model 3, but am not thrilled with the Model 3 interior design so am thinking of other options. Likely going to put my A3 up for sale, but have no idea whether a fully replaced tranny will add or subtract from the sales price.


----------



## BlkSTIG (Jun 25, 2007)

My wifes 09 A3 S-Line wouldn't start and prompted a ESP Fault on the MFD. The P on the shifter was blinking to and I can't move the shifter out of P.:banghead:


----------



## Rush10 (Feb 16, 2012)

2007 a3 3.2 quattro

ESP fault randomly making the car FWD. I’m assuming the haldex pump.

Drivers side window rolls down and not up. Unless button is wiggles around for a minute then it goes up. Probably a bad master switch?


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

Rush10 said:


> 2007 a3 3.2 quattro
> 
> ESP fault randomly making the car FWD. I’m assuming the haldex pump.
> 
> ...


Check the wiring to the haldex controller. Including the harness connection under the rear seat, in the porthole. Of course scan for fault codes first.
And get a new window switch. Common issue. Cheap original crappy switch.


----------



## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

BlkSTIG said:


> My wifes 09 A3 S-Line wouldn't start and prompted a ESP Fault on the MFD. The P on the shifter was blinking to and I can't move the shifter out of P.:banghead:


Scanned with vcds for fault codes? That will narrow down the possible list of causes.


----------



## 2.0T Dan (Aug 14, 2012)

Went to a lift to fix an exhaust rattle and saw this. Oh boy :/









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## BlkSTIG (Jun 25, 2007)

SilverSquirrel said:


> Scanned with vcds for fault codes? That will narrow down the possible list of causes.


Here's the full scan. Basically the TCU isn't communicating with anything. Don't know if its because it's lost power or it went kaput.


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Sunday,10,December,2017,22:00:13:45534
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 17.8.1.0 (x64)
Data version: 20171130 DS276.6
www.Ross-Tech.com


VIN: WAUHF78P49A082783 License Plate: CAM_A3
Mileage: 75500km-46913mi Repair Order: 



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Chassis Type: 8P-AU35 (1K0)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 15 16 17 19 25 42 44 46 47 52 56 62 65 72
77

VIN: WAUHF78P49A082783 Mileage: 75500km-46913miles

01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
02-Auto Trans -- Status: Cannot be reached 1100
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: Malfunction 0010
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: Malfunction 0010
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
0F-Digital Radio -- Status: Malfunction 0010
15-Airbags -- Status: Malfunction 0010
16-Steering wheel -- Status: Malfunction 0010
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: Malfunction 0010
25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: Malfunction 0010
44-Steering Assist -- Status: Malfunction 0010
46-Central Conv. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
47-Sound System -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000
62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000
65-Tire Pressure -- Status: OK 0000
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000
77-Telephone -- Status: OK 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine (CCT) Labels:. 06J-906-026-CCT.clb
Part No SW: 8P0 907 115 AG HW: 8P0 907 115 Q
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0030 
Revision: AAH03--- Serial number: AUX7Z0HNFNI06D
Coding: 0103010A1C070160
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 77FDF8D9067C9AFEA0-8022

1 Fault Found:
049409 - No Communication with Transmission Control Module 
U0101 - 000 - 
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 32
Reset counter: 255
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2047.15.31
Time: 31:63:63

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 23.0°C
Temperature: 24.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 11.557 V

Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans
Cannot be reached

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes (-----) Labels:. 1K0-907-379-60EC1F.clb
Part No SW: 1K0 907 379 AP HW: 1K0 907 379 AP
Component: ESP MK60EC1 H45 0107 
Revision: 00H45001 
Coding: 14426012492A00FC281206EC921C00413900
Shop #: WSC 46093 000 1048576
VCID: 000F930593B2DD4691-8054

1 Fault Found:
01315 - Transmission Control Module 
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 22
Mileage: 75504 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.12.07
Time: 09:17:52

Freeze Frame:
Count: 16384
Count: 14
Count: 12288
Count: 8195
Count: 41984
Count: 64769
Count: 0
Count: 2304


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8P0-820-043.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 820 043 BG HW: 8P0 820 043 BG
Component: KlimavollautomatH09 0100 
Revision: 000490 Serial number: 8P0820043BG 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 72EBC9CD6D1EFFD697-8026

1 Fault Found:
01206 - Signal for Duration of Ignition Off Time 
008 - Implausible Signal
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101000
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 22
Mileage: 75504 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.12.07
Time: 00:00:42

Freeze Frame:


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels:. 8P0-907-279-30-H.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 907 279 P HW: 8P0 907 279 P
Component: Bordnetz-SG H54 2903 
Revision: 00H54000 Serial number: 00000009119016
Coding: 11AC2F81C0141380EF00001C0080000000284E0564114003003800000000
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 08192
VCID: 4A9B712D250ED7160F-801E

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 8P1 955 119 F Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB
Component: Wischer AU350 H10 0040 
Coding: 00056595
Shop #: WSC 06314 

4 Faults Found:
01800 - Light Switch (E1) 
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 26
Mileage: 75504 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.12.07
Time: 14:34:00

Freeze Frame:
OFF
Voltage: 12.10 V
OFF
ON
OFF
OFF
OFF

01321 - Control Module for Airbags (J234) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100100
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 62
Mileage: 75504 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.12.07
Time: 13:03:00

Freeze Frame:
ON
Voltage: 11.90 V
OFF
ON
OFF
OFF
OFF

01314 - Engine Control Module 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100100
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 62
Mileage: 75504 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.12.07
Time: 13:03:00

Freeze Frame:
ON
Voltage: 11.90 V
OFF
ON
OFF
OFF
OFF

01309 - Power Steering Control Module (J500) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100100
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 62
Mileage: 75504 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.12.07
Time: 13:03:00

Freeze Frame:
ON
Voltage: 11.90 V
OFF
ON
OFF
OFF
OFF


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 0F: Digital Radio Labels: 8E0-035-593-SIR.lbl
Part No SW: 8E0 035 593 M HW: 8E0 035 593 M
Component: SDAR SIRIUS H07 0150 
Revision: 00000000 Serial number: AUZ4Z7H0471280
Coding: 0000100
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 33650CC95284B6DE5C-8066

1 Fault Found:
02635 - Tuner Not Enabled/Activated 
000 - - 
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 103
Mileage: 73490 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.06.12
Time: 12:04:12


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags (J234) Labels:| 8P0-959-655-10.clb
Part No SW: 8P0 959 655 K HW: 8P0 959 655 K
Component: Airbag AU1042 H06 0090 
Revision: -------- Serial number: 003000000000
Coding: 303142393041303030374A55304C38503053
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
ASAM Dataset: EV_Airba10AURB4 001001
ROD: EV_Airba10AURB4.rod
VCID: 4A9B712DED0ED7160F-801E

Seat occupied recognition: 
Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 8P0 910 339 C HW: 8P0 959 339 C
Component: BF-Gewichtss. H02 0030 
Serial number: 5810000R0000003M2N
Coding: 000000

Crash sensor for side airbag: driver side: 
Serial number: 3572DRB4000084BCF160

Crash sensor for side airbag: front passenger side: 
Serial number: 3582DRB4000084BCF172

Crash sensor for side airbag: rear: driver side: 
Serial number: 35128RB400004731C5FM

Crash sensor for side airbag: rear: passenger side: 
Serial number: 35228RB400004715FACU

Crash sensor for front airbag: driver side: 
Serial number: 35547RB40000491BD2BV

Crash sensor for front airbag: front passenger side: 
Serial number: 35647RB40000491C0C9S

2 Faults Found:
13636864 - Control Module for ABS Brakes 
U1015 00 [008] - No Communications
Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 62

12583424 - Powertrain Databus 
U0002 00 [008] - No Communications
Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 1


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel Labels: 8P0-953-549-F.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 953 549 F HW: 8P0 953 549 F
Component: J0527 H36 0070 
Coding: 0014142
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 418956011838144EDE-8014

Subsystem 1 - Part No: XXXXXXXXXXX 
Component: E0221 H02 0030

1 Fault Found:
00002 - Transmission Control Unit 
004 - No Signal/Communication

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8P0-920-xxx-17-MY8.clb
Part No SW: 8P0 920 982 G HW: 8P0 920 982 G
Component: KOMBIINSTR. VDO H18 0830 
Revision: D0H18006 Serial number: 224NH006002753
Coding: 0016288
Shop #: WSC 29823 002 1048576
VCID: 3D712AF164C070AEBA-8068

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels:. 1K0-907-530-V4.clb
Part No SW: 1K0 907 530 S HW: 1K0 907 951 
Component: J533__Gateway H16 0210 
Revision: H16 Serial number: 3400K08B140539
Coding: ED807F07100702002102
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 377D38D946FC5AFE60-8062

1 Fault Found:
01315 - Transmission Control Module 
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 22
Mileage: 75504 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.12.07
Time: 09:17:51


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 25: Immobilizer Labels: 1K0-920-xxx-25.clb
Part No SW: 8P0 920 982 G HW: 8P0 920 982 G
Component: KOMBIINSTR. VDO H18 0830 
Revision: D0H18006 Serial number: AUX7Z0HNFNI06D
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 3D712AF164C070AEBA-8068

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 42: Door Elect, Driver Labels: 8P0-959-801-MIN3.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 959 801 K HW: 8P0 959 801 K
Component: Tuer-SG H03 0060 
Coding: 0001181
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 43855C090224065ECC-8016

1 Fault Found:
01321 - Control Module for Airbags (J234) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 44: Steering Assist Labels: 1K0-909-14x-GEN3.clb
Part No: 1K0 909 144 C
Component: EPS_ZFLS Kl. 233 2301 
Revision: 00H15000 
Shop #: WSC 02069 000 90108
VCID: 2A5B11AD854EF716EF-807E

1 Fault Found:
00778 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85) 
000 - - - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
Battery Volts: 12.6 V
PD
Temperature: 25.0°C
Count: 2
Steering Angle: 0.00°
Count: 0
SteerAng n.Init


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 8P0-959-433.lbl
Part No: 8P0 959 433 K
Component: KSG H11 0080 
Coding: 1B80228001382D090F0FCC8F0477
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 44875F15072A0166F5-8010

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1K0 951 605 C
Component: LIN BACKUP HORN H03 1301

Subsystem 2 - Component: NGS n.mounted 

Subsystem 3 - Component: IRUE n.mounted 

1 Fault Found:
00352 - Terminal 30A 
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 47: Sound System Labels: 8Px-035-382.lbl
Part No SW: 8P4 035 382 D HW: 8P4 035 382 D
Component: AB2 SUBWOOFERBOXH06 0180 
Revision: 00005 Serial number: 30674803084652
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 356132D15CF0A8EE72-8060

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 52: Door Elect, Pass. Labels:. 1K0-959-702-MIN3.clb
Part No SW: 8P0 959 802 K HW: 8P0 959 802 K
Component: Tuer-SG H03 0060 
Coding: 0001181
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 44875F15072A0166F5-8010

1 Fault Found:
01321 - Control Module for Airbags (J234) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio Labels: 8J0-035-1xx-56.clb
Part No SW: 8P0 035 186 Q HW: 8P0 035 186 Q
Component: R Concert2+ H03 0270 
Revision: 00H03000 Serial number: AUZ1Z3H2989375
Coding: 0750212
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 408F530513321D46D1-8014

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 62: Door, Rear Left Labels: 8P4-959-801.lbl
Part No SW: 8P4 959 801 E HW: 8P4 959 801 E
Component: Tuer-SG H04 0040 
Coding: 0001176
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 1012544
VCID: 418956011838144EDE-8014

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 65: Tire Pressure Labels: 8J0-907-273.lbl
Part No SW: 8J0 907 273 A HW: 8J0 907 273 A
Component: J502-RDK H03 0370 
Revision: --H03-H0 Serial number: 13137782079332
Coding: 0860021
Shop #: WSC 06435 000 00000
VCID: 2F6D00B9BEAC923E38-807A

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 72: Door, Rear Right Labels: 8P4-959-802.lbl
Part No SW: 8P4 959 802 E HW: 8P4 959 802 E
Component: Tuer-SG H04 0040 
Coding: 0001176
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 1012544
VCID: 428B590D1D3E0F56C7-8016

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 77: Telephone Labels: 8P0-862-335.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 862 335 T HW: 8P0 862 335 T
Component: FSE_256x BT H34 0550 
Revision: 00000000 Serial number: 00000005013663
Coding: 0001277
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 479D4819361C2A7E10-8012

No fault code found.

End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 02:33)--------------------------
Log-CAM_A3-WAUHF78P49A082783-75500km-46913mi.txt
Open with Google Docs
Displaying Log-CAM_A3-WAUHF78P49A082783-75500km-46913mi.txt.


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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

BlkSTIG said:


> My wifes 09 A3 S-Line wouldn't start and prompted a ESP Fault on the MFD. The P on the shifter was blinking to and I can't move the shifter out of P.:banghead:





BlkSTIG said:


> Here's the full scan. Basically the TCU isn't communicating with anything. Don't know if its because it's lost power or it went kaput.
> 
> ....lots of faults for communication loss with powertrain network and loss of battery power (terminal 30)


Have you tried jump starting it? Some control modules say loss of communication with just the TCM, some lost communication with various modules on the powertrain network (ECM, TCM, Airbag), some have faults related to a loss of power. Climate control module stores a fault for ignition signal duration that I've only seen when there is a loss of power, like when the battery dies. Without having the car in front of me, suspecting power supply is my first guess.

Has there been any major repairs in the past year, maybe engine or transmission removal? A power or ground cable might be loose if yes. Sometimes when batteries go bad they cause weird problems, communication between modules and networks won't go well if battery voltage is insufficient.

Do the same faults come back after erasing?


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## kevichar (Nov 15, 2002)

2.0T Dan said:


> Went to a lift to fix an exhaust rattle and saw this. Oh boy :/
> 
> 
> 
> ...


An alignment easy fix or may have worn control arm bushings or something? Headgasket leak?

Sent from my SM-G530W using Tapatalk


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## 2.0T Dan (Aug 14, 2012)

Cam cover/girdle was leaking so I had it resealed. That costed a pretty penny. The tires are from when I got cut off and had to slam on my brakes. Bushings looked ok but could be worn. I'm almost at 80k miles so a bushing/suspension refresh will come soon. 

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## hgrail (Nov 21, 2002)

click..click

dead battery this morning


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Bah stupid hood cable froze....









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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

Ponto said:


> Bah stupid hood cable froze....
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That happened to me last year here when it got pretty cold (probably in the 20's freedom units) and it turned out it was the latch itself that got stuck, the cable moved freely. Maybe try spraying some PB blaster or WD-40 in the hood latch if you haven't already straightened it out :thumbup:


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

TBomb said:


> That happened to me last year here when it got pretty cold (probably in the 20's freedom units) and it turned out it was the latch itself that got stuck, the cable moved freely. Maybe try spraying some PB blaster or WD-40 in the hood latch if you haven't already straightened it out


Perfect thanks. Was thinking that was the problem. Glad you confirmed it now haha it was about 12 freedoms today. 

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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

Ponto said:


> Perfect thanks. Was thinking that was the problem. Glad you confirmed it now haha it was about 12 freedoms today.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


Yeah man! I spent so long f'ing around with the connector under the hood for the cable with bare fingers in sub-freezing temps, it was not fun and I wound up breaking it  only to find that the cable itself moved freely it was the latch itself that was all gummed up.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

TBomb said:


> Yeah man! I spent so long f'ing around with the connector under the hood for the cable with bare fingers in sub-freezing temps, it was not fun and I wound up breaking it  only to find that the cable itself moved freely it was the latch itself that was all gummed up.


Yeah I noticed the handle pulls and moves freely. Figured the cable was seizing or freezing of it wasn't the latch. 

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## BlkSTIG (Jun 25, 2007)

Audi_Mechanic said:


> Have you tried jump starting it? Some control modules say loss of communication with just the TCM, some lost communication with various modules on the powertrain network (ECM, TCM, Airbag), some have faults related to a loss of power. Climate control module stores a fault for ignition signal duration that I've only seen when there is a loss of power, like when the battery dies. Without having the car in front of me, suspecting power supply is my first guess.
> 
> Has there been any major repairs in the past year, maybe engine or transmission removal? A power or ground cable might be loose if yes. Sometimes when batteries go bad they cause weird problems, communication between modules and networks won't go well if battery voltage is insufficient.
> 
> Do the same faults come back after erasing?


Yeah I started with trying to jump it thinking the battery went but that didn’t solve it. Also swapped the battery to one in my GLI and still no change. Yes the faults return right after they’re cleared.


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## Bigo1087 (Feb 19, 2010)

PCV Failed and Took out my Rear Main Seal....FML

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## Hendricks433 (Feb 11, 2017)

Bigo1087 said:


> PCV Failed and Took out my Rear Main Seal..
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Just bought a PCV an hoses to replace and maintenance. Desperately don’t want to get a rear main seal leak.


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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

BlkSTIG said:


> Yeah I started with trying to jump it thinking the battery went but that didn’t solve it. Also swapped the battery to one in my GLI and still no change. Yes the faults return right after they’re cleared.


Start wiggling the cables in the engine compartment to see if any are loose. Check the fuses in the engine compartment fuse panel, some might be blown. Might have a faulty relay, swap the ECM/TCM power supply relays with one of the adjacent relays. Owner's manual should have a breakout of fuse panels.


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## BlkSTIG (Jun 25, 2007)

Audi_Mechanic said:


> Start wiggling the cables in the engine compartment to see if any are loose. Check the fuses in the engine compartment fuse panel, some might be blown. Might have a faulty relay, swap the ECM/TCM power supply relays with one of the adjacent relays. Owner's manual should have a breakout of fuse panels.


Checked, checked and I'll try that tomorrow.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

TBomb said:


> Yeah man! I spent so long f'ing around with the connector under the hood for the cable with bare fingers in sub-freezing temps, it was not fun and I wound up breaking it  only to find that the cable itself moved freely it was the latch itself that was all gummed up.


Yup the WD40 did the trick! Works good as new again. Thanks buddy. 

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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

Ponto said:


> Yup the WD40 did the trick! Works good as new again. Thanks buddy.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


Glad to hear it!


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

FYI, WD40 is a solvent, not a lubricant. Probably works good at cleaning out the gunked up grease in there but now you're not protected from rust and wear. I would suggest spraying some actual lubricant in there after the WD40 dries.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

MisterJJ said:


> FYI, WD40 is a solvent, not a lubricant. Probably works good at cleaning out the gunked up grease in there but now you're not protected from rust and wear. I would suggest spraying some actual lubricant in there after the WD40 dries.


Oh yes very true. Well once it's not frozen hoth land up here I'll do some extra lube. 

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


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## L_A_456 (Apr 8, 2011)

First time since I got my A3 back in 2010 my baby failed to start in -30 plus Celsius temp's. I have never had to plug in my oil pan heater or get a boost till today, looks like i'm in the market for a new battery with some good cold crank's. I should also install a inline coolant heater i have laying around.


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## Barn01 (Feb 26, 2011)

L_A_456 said:


> First time since I got my A3 back in 2010 my baby failed to start in -30 plus Celsius temp's. I have never had to plug in my oil pan heater or get a boost till today, looks like i'm in the market for a new battery with some good cold crank's. I should also install a inline coolant heater i have laying around.


Ya I put a 150W oil pan heater on mine because -30C is no joke. The difference in how it sounds when you crank it over is night and day! I should note that it shifts better as well. I've had a couple mornings without it at -30C where the car would get stuck in 3rd or 4th gear until the DSG oil warmed up. Since I mounted the heater on the transmission side of the oil pan, I don't have that problem anymore.


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## L_A_456 (Apr 8, 2011)

I forgot to mention the hood strut/shock pisses out its oil all over my engine and coil packs. I guess leaving 2 feet of heavy wet snow on your car for 2 days cause you are to drunk and then too hung over to brush the snow off was to much weight for the hood. The snow also pushed the hood latch down. It took me a while to figure out where the hell the oil came from and why my hood wouldn't close. I am not a smart man.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

L_A_456 said:


> I am not a smart man.


You're Canadian. 

It was 80° here yesterday. So about 100° warmer than you?


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## BlkSTIG (Jun 25, 2007)

Audi_Mechanic said:


> Start wiggling the cables in the engine compartment to see if any are loose. Check the fuses in the engine compartment fuse panel, some might be blown. Might have a faulty relay, swap the ECM/TCM power supply relays with one of the adjacent relays. Owner's manual should have a breakout of fuse panels.


Update: I towed it to a Audi/VW shop. They did 2 hours of diag and tested all the connections and relays. Technician found DSG fluid in the electronic connector which apparently shorted the whole unit. Shop wanted $3000 to repair it. I said no and had it towed to my brothers garage where we will perform the repair. It's an 02E DSG. I've been searching for part numbers to find a match on a new or rebuilt unit on ebay. Do you have any leads on part numbers?


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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

BlkSTIG said:


> Do you have any leads on part numbers?


Mechatronic part number is pretty specific, best source is to call a dealer with your VIN handy.


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## Evo V (Dec 29, 2010)

Going to work today all of a sudden the car stopped responding to the gas pedal input. Luckily I was on a back road right next to a gas station so I stopped there. No flashing on the DSG shifter. I turned the ignition off and on again and DSG started flashing. Left the car sit for 5 min and started again - no problems at all. My first thought was that the mechatronic went bad. It almost felt like one of the solenoids stuck open/close and the DSG went in safe mode. I changed the oil about 3000 miles ago so it's fresh. Lately I also felt that the clutch started slipping (stopping to a red light the revs go up before calming down). The car is with 232K miles now and the clutch was replaced at 120k.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

MisterJJ said:


> You're Canadian.
> 
> It was 80° here yesterday. So about 100° warmer than you?


-22 F today... so actually 102 Degrees warmer...


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

It's just sitting in the driveway...I'm not blasting down the Coast Highway through Laguna Beach!! Got visitors from Seattle to entertain. . .. . . JK, kinda. . .


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## eliasvaldez (Jan 21, 2018)

*Help coding abs control module*

my old abs control module dosnt work any more its 1k0907379 ae and y was told that i can use a 1k0907379 bm but i can't code this new abs control module. 

my car its a audi a3 2009 cabrio 2.0 t vin:TRUJF2891011017 

HELP PLEASE !!!


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## broadmargin (Jan 24, 2018)

2009 A3 2.0T Quattro with the standard 3 codes for a vacuum leak. Searches for idle.

I forget the codes, but they are the 3 you get with a vacuum leak.
air in past the MAF
Bank 1 lean
Idle too high

I already replaced the PCV. So i guess next i do a smoke test or start spraying carb cleaner around the intake manifold.


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## Hawkman312 (Nov 4, 2016)

Beginning of the end...


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## BlkSTIG (Jun 25, 2007)

Audi_Mechanic said:


> Mechatronic part number is pretty specific, best source is to call a dealer with your VIN handy.


Updated: Found the specific part number that had been superseded. Installed it myself back in January and the car runs and drives normally.


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## michael2016 (May 18, 2016)

*heat*

The heat seems to have stopped working on my 09 A3 2.0T quattro. the side vents produce a small amount of heat and the center vents are not producing at all. has anybody had to repair the heat in their Audi?


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## Hendricks433 (Feb 11, 2017)

My heat is starting to not work. Sounds like flushing your heater core is a good first step.


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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

michael2016 said:


> The heat seems to have stopped working on my 09 A3 2.0T quattro. the side vents produce a small amount of heat and the center vents are not producing at all. has anybody had to repair the heat in their Audi?


Scan the climate control module for trouble codes? Might have a faulty air door motor not directing flow through heater core.


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## Evo V (Dec 29, 2010)

michael2016 said:


> The heat seems to have stopped working on my 09 A3 2.0T quattro. the side vents produce a small amount of heat and the center vents are not producing at all. has anybody had to repair the heat in their Audi?


Mine (09) does the same except if I let the air circulating inside the car only and I push all 3 buttons on the right it warm up the car. I also can hear high pitch squeaking noise when the heat is working. I will deal with it when the weather is a little warmer. It's too cold now to troubleshoot this on the driveway.


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## kevichar (Nov 15, 2002)

Evo V said:


> Mine (09) does the same except if I let the air circulating inside the car only and I push all 3 buttons on the right it warm up the car. I also can hear high pitch squeaking noise when the heat is working. I will deal with it when the weather is a little warmer. It's too cold now to troubleshoot this on the driveway.


Mine did that noise. Turned out to be the heater fan shaft going. It waz not hard to replace it under the glovebox. I got a aftermarket one for 100$

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## A3REDT (Mar 22, 2014)

Something is wrong with the fans... When I run the AC the big one comes on high and makes a lot of noise. Did some testing with VCDS and the ECU could actuate the main fan but the AC had no way of getting a fan to run. Don't have my full arsenal of tools so it'll be a few weeks before I can fully diagnose it. Hate knowing there's something wrong but not what it is.

Also for the 2nd time found a code for the cam adjuster.

And I intermittently find a code for a drivers side speaker not working on the audio system.


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

Omg.. currently 2 of my a3s, and my old s4... feels bad man


Hawkman312 said:


> Beginning of the end...


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## absolutt (Aug 10, 2007)

I recently had a problem where some wires had begun to frag in the driver's door harness, to the point where the key fob would no longer function to lock/unlock the doors and driver's door buttons to lock/unlock and roll down windows wouldn't work. I fixed it by reconnecting the two wires. Everything was working fine for over 2 months.

Suddenly, I'm getting this strange behavior where key fob will lock doors, but not unlock them. Driver's door is functioning with lock switch and window switches. Thankfully the key will handle the job of unlocking, but this is baffling. It is possible that my previous fix is partially undone, or another wire may have frayed?


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## tbvvw (Jun 19, 2002)

For my 2007 A3 3.2 VR6:

My temp gauge works one day, not the next - been doing this for a week. And when it stays on the far left "C", I can still get very hot air blowing out the vents in 35-40 degree F outside temps. 

Intermittent stuck thermostat?
Faulty sensor?
Gauge kaput?

Any experience with this? TIA


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

tbvvw said:


> For my 2007 A3 3.2 VR6:
> 
> My temp gauge works one day, not the next - been doing this for a week. And when it stays on the far left "C", I can still get very hot air blowing out the vents in 35-40 degree F outside temps.
> 
> ...


U need new tstat. Y U no looky faq?
I solve. Now u fix. Buy good german tsat, not crappy one.
Not believe me? U read thread here:

https://forums.fourtitude.com/showt...i-A3-dead-temp-gauge-after-new-sensor-install.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

SilverSquirrel said:


> U need new tstat. Y U no looky faq?
> I solve. Now u fix. Buy good german tsat, not crappy one.
> Not believe me? U read thread here:
> 
> https://forums.fourtitude.com/showt...i-A3-dead-temp-gauge-after-new-sensor-install.


Is that you, krazyboi?


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## tbvvw (Jun 19, 2002)

SilverSquirrel said:


> U need new tstat. Y U no looky faq?
> I solve. Now u fix. Buy good german tsat, not crappy one.
> Not believe me? U read thread here:
> 
> https://forums.fourtitude.com/showt...i-A3-dead-temp-gauge-after-new-sensor-install.


Thank you! I wish I hadn't read the end of the thread where it says, "you can drive it around for a while with no worries..." 

I got enough on my car maint/repair plate right now. Might have to wait until after Jan 1.


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

MisterJJ said:


> Is that you, krazyboi?


Crazy. For sure. Yep.


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## Trueginster98 (Oct 28, 2013)

*winter is here...*

...and i'm remembering my heat doesn't work in my POS a3. heater core replaced, and coolant flushed... still no heat. :banghead: anyone else know common things with these that will cause heat to blow cold?


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## ceese (Jul 2, 2011)

Trueginster98 said:


> ...and i'm remembering my heat doesn't work in my POS a3. heater core replaced, and coolant flushed... still no heat. :banghead: anyone else know common things with these that will cause heat to blow cold?


Yeah, sleeping with her sister.


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## Moomtaz (Jun 28, 2015)

I believe the oily residue here is a sign of a boost leak and the hose clamp clip there doesn’t seem very secure 




















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## A3 Wannabe (Feb 22, 2017)

*What's that noise????*

OK, I'm stumped. I have a faint noise coming from the air vent to the left of the steering wheel that sounds like hissing...kinda like the noise the belt-driven parts under the hood make. Hard to describe, other than it sounds like a hissing, "circular" sound...like "shhhhhhh". It's faint, but when coming to a stop with the radio off it's definitely audible. The funny thing is, it quiets when I apply the throttle- it kinda sounds like a valve that's open that closes when I give the engine gas. I thought it was climate control-related, but it does it even when the climate control is completely off. It doesn't ever get louder or change pitch- it's a constant "shhhhhhhh" I tend to notice when I am going slow and not on the gas. Is there something behind the dash in that area that may be making that noise? Am I hearing radiator fans through just the driver's side vent? It's making me mental! I recorded on my iPhone but don't see a way to attach audio files...is that even possible?


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## dale333 (May 14, 2016)

A3 Wannabe said:


> OK, I'm stumped. I have a faint noise coming from the air vent to the left of the steering wheel that sounds like hissing...kinda like the noise the belt-driven parts under the hood make. Hard to describe, other than it sounds like a hissing, "circular" sound...like "shhhhhhh". It's faint, but when coming to a stop with the radio off it's definitely audible. The funny thing is, it quiets when I apply the throttle- it kinda sounds like a valve that's open that closes when I give the engine gas. I thought it was climate control-related, but it does it even when the climate control is completely off. It doesn't ever get louder or change pitch- it's a constant "shhhhhhhh" I tend to notice when I am going slow and not on the gas. Is there something behind the dash in that area that may be making that noise? Am I hearing radiator fans through just the driver's side vent? It's making me mental! I recorded on my iPhone but don't see a way to attach audio files...is that even possible?


That's funny, I have what I describe as squeaky fan sound sound coming from my passenger side below the dash but mine does stop when I turn the fan off and it doesn't seem to do it as much when when it warms up, only when it's cold out.


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## A3 Wannabe (Feb 22, 2017)

If only we knew where to aim the WD-40


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## Moomtaz (Jun 28, 2015)

Somewhere along the life of this A3, someone thought this was slick. 

Hahahahaha 

I’m trying to fix this before I need the car again (I’m on “vacation” currently)











Edit: This is the large, drivers side (for North America) cooling fan... with a zip tie holding it together 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## sergecur99 (Sep 17, 2005)

Car is telling me rear blinker bulbs on driver side are not working. They are...

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk


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## dale333 (May 14, 2016)

Moomtaz said:


>


Not much room in there for that Spulen pipe, how does it seem?


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## Moomtaz (Jun 28, 2015)

It’s tight, but there’s room for it. In that previous image above, I didn’t have it fully installed yet. Once the pipe was raised higher into the upper coupler hose piece it brought everything more into place. Here’s a picture after full install, but it doesn’t quite capture how much room there is now...so much so that I have near zero concern it’ll interfere with anything. 











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## Moomtaz (Jun 28, 2015)

sergecur99 said:


> Car is telling me rear blinker bulbs on driver side are not working. They are...
> 
> Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk


Pardon the question, but is it doing the thing where it flashes rapidly? Signaling that it’s near its end




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## sergecur99 (Sep 17, 2005)

Moomtaz said:


> Pardon the question, but is it doing the thing where it flashes rapidly? Signaling that it’s near its end
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The light in the dashboard is blinking fast but the blinkers are flashing normally

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk


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## dale333 (May 14, 2016)

Moomtaz said:


> It’s tight, but there’s room for it. In that previous image above, I didn’t have it fully installed yet. Once the pipe was raised higher into the upper coupler hose piece it brought everything more into place. Here’s a picture after full install, but it doesn’t quite capture how much room there is now...so much so that I have near zero concern it’ll interfere with anything.


That's good to know. My next upgrade is going to be the HPA intake manifold because I need to do a valve cleaning. So I'll do them at the same time.


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## K3V11N (Aug 15, 2001)

AC doesn't get cold. Found a leak on the hose going from condenser to compressor. Apparently it's an expensive hose. Lol


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## Moomtaz (Jun 28, 2015)

dale333 said:


> That's good to know...


Cool, feel free to hmu when you’re putting it in and run into any issues.



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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

K3V11N said:


> AC doesn't get cold. Found a leak on the hose going from condenser to compressor. Apparently it's an expensive hose. Lol


Metal hose or rubber hose? On a previous car I got a leak on a metal hose and thought it couldn't hurt to try something... I cleaned off the area really good and put JB-Weld around it. It held for years.


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## OCaudi (Nov 16, 2006)

Hawkman312 said:


> Beginning of the end...



I'm attempting to stop the bleeding. 








[/URL]


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## sergecur99 (Sep 17, 2005)

OCaudi said:


> I'm attempting to stop the bleeding.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Good luck man. Decided to have my headliner redone a couple years ago. Sucks because it doesn't exactly match but it's better than having hang.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk


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## Evo V (Dec 29, 2010)

Timing chain tensioner failed on the 09 A3 148K miles. I was about to inspect it next weekend... Oh, well - head rebuild time. Luckily I have the whole rebuild kit leftover from my first A3 8P so not a big impact on my wallet.


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## Rocco8788 (Nov 5, 2015)

On trips that the oil temp reaches 93°C the oil pressure starts to fluctuate and occasionally when coming to a stop light the low oil pressure warning will blip on even though the readings I get are "normal." Possibly time to have bottom end refreshed.


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## K3V11N (Aug 15, 2001)

Replaced my spark plugs. Noticed some oil on the 1st plug from the left and a little on the 2nd plug. Thinking I need to replace my valve cover gasket


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

Tail lamp "open, or short to plus" i hate electrical problems...

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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Dang! Seems like our cars are getting old and falling apart. Guess that happens. My latest one is clunking around the driver's side suspension. Not when hitting bumps or anything. Just when going slow there is something banging around. Been going on for a while without getting worse.


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## mk4mac (Oct 11, 2018)

2007 A3 3.2... noticed the car was taking a while to warm up, then the gauge died, then the CEL came on for cooling system.... car's in the shop now getting new Thermostat and coolant temp sensor... oh well, seems pretty common on these cars...


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

MisterJJ said:


> Dang! Seems like our cars are getting old and falling apart. Guess that happens. My latest one is clunking around the driver's side suspension. Not when hitting bumps or anything. Just when going slow there is something banging around. Been going on for a while without getting worse.


I chased a similar issue for ages. Wound up being my rear end links.


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## absolutt (Aug 10, 2007)

Had rear rotors and pads replaced. I'd bought Bosch for those and was expecting that's all I needed... but calipers were apparently done as well. This was right before Memorial Day weekend and I didn't have time to source on my own... so through my mechanic I probably paid double the cost of the calipers. But in any case, they did a great job. Braking is back to its normal very grippy self.


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## A3 Wannabe (Feb 22, 2017)

1. Popping noise when turning at low speeds. Bushings or something needs replaced.
2. Vacuum pipe leading to brake booster cracked. I have the replacement but have been too damn busy to fit it.
3. Leaking something in the brake booster area...I think it's brake fluid cuz my level is low.
4. Scan says I have misfires in 2 cylinders

God I wish I had a lift at home


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## absolutt (Aug 10, 2007)

Evo V said:


> Timing chain tensioner failed on the 09 A3 148K miles. I was about to inspect it next weekend... Oh, well - head rebuild time. Luckily I have the whole rebuild kit leftover from my first A3 8P so not a big impact on my wallet.


Man... that really sucks. When did you have the timing belt done last time? Was it around 80k ~ 100k? Seems like your tensioner should have lasted at least to 160k.


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## absolutt (Aug 10, 2007)

*Suddenly experiencing a strange electrical peculiarity with instrument cluster lighting--any ideas?*

OK, my A3 is suddenly experiencing a strange electrical peculiarity -- white instrument cluster lights are on when headlights are off. For no apparent reason I can think of. Didn't drive hard, change anything, mod anything... I have a Euro switch (with rear fog support), which was one of the first mods I did nearly 10 years ago. Used VAG COM back then to enable. No problems since.

As you know, the A3 8P sport back from 2006 to 2008 had a specific instrument cluster lighting behavior. It has 2 groups -- red for all indicators and central LED computer display, and white for all digits and gauge tick marks. The white lighting would be on only when the headlights are on. In all other modes, just the red gauge needles and LED computer cluster would be on. It's a simple, easy way to know when your headlights are active.

But now... these lights are on in all modes except "off". I don't even need the key. With the car off, if I turn the light switch to any other position other than off, the white numeric back lights all come on. They wouldn't come on before without the key. Thankfully the lights do go off when the light switch is in the off position. So I don't have to worry about the battery being drained. It's a "passive" change that doesn't really affect function, but because this isn't the usual behavior I'm worried it might be an indication of some other looming problem that could become worse.

Anyone here have a clue as to what might be going on?  Thanks!


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## daniel.ramirez (Nov 24, 2001)

Hawkman312 said:


> Beginning of the end...


I saw this and two weeks later my car is doing the same! :banghead:

I got some super magnets to try stopping this... :facepalm:


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## absolutt (Aug 10, 2007)

daniel.ramirez said:


> I saw this and two weeks later my car is doing the same! :banghead:
> 
> I got some super magnets to try stopping this... :facepalm:


I wonder if it's possible to deal with this by using a syringe to inject liquid adhesive, then use magnets to secure it to the roof until it dries.


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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

absolutt said:


> I wonder if it's possible to deal with this by using a syringe to inject liquid adhesive, then use magnets to secure it to the roof until it dries.


Was thinking the same thing, would probably work. But i think the glue would bleed over the fabric, and the foamy orange underneath the cloth would make it a little difficult to get it to adhere good

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## L_A_456 (Apr 8, 2011)

getting the "esp fault consult owners manual" in the cluster, time to scan and find out what's up


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## 801_Bri (Jun 20, 2008)

Started her up for the first time in over a month and got hit with a P0300 P0301 and P0304. So will have fun diving into that this weekend. 

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## dale333 (May 14, 2016)

801_Bri said:


> Started her up for the first time in over a month and got hit with a P0300 P0301 and P0304. So will have fun diving into that this weekend.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Most likely just the coils


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## 801_Bri (Jun 20, 2008)

dale333 said:


> Most likely just the coils


That's what I'm hoping for just concerns me that they havent seen much use the last few months and now they are bad.

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## absolutt (Aug 10, 2007)

absolutt said:


> OK, my A3 is suddenly experiencing a strange electrical peculiarity -- white instrument cluster lights are on when headlights are off. For no apparent reason I can think of. Didn't drive hard, change anything, mod anything... I have a Euro switch (with rear fog support), which was one of the first mods I did nearly 10 years ago. Used VAG COM back then to enable. No problems since.
> 
> As you know, the A3 8P sport back from 2006 to 2008 had a specific instrument cluster lighting behavior. It has 2 groups -- red for all indicators and central LED computer display, and white for all digits and gauge tick marks. The white lighting would be on only when the headlights are on. In all other modes, just the red gauge needles and LED computer cluster would be on. It's a simple, easy way to know when your headlights are active.
> 
> ...


Well, all I can think of the cause is...








Mysteriously, the instrument gauge lighting behavior went back to normal. Go figure.


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## absolutt (Aug 10, 2007)

Replaced the license plate lamps again with aftermarket LED's. The first set I bought off of Amazon and they lasted 6 years. Weird thing is that one went out at that point, simply by the emitters falling off the PCB. Looks like the solder decayed somehow. The other one still works. Bought another pair, this time off of eBay from "super_auto_light". $13 shipped. Quality seems a little better than the last set. Nice and bright. If they last 5+ years, that's still a win... as I don't expect I'll still have the A3 at that point.


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## A3 Wannabe (Feb 22, 2017)

absolutt said:


> Well, all I can think of the cause is...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Mine acted weird after I plugged my scan dongle into the ODB port...a couple key cycles and it went back to normal 


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## absolutt (Aug 10, 2007)

A3 Wannabe said:


> Mine acted weird after I plugged my scan dongle into the ODB port...a couple key cycles and it went back to normal


Yeah, there are oddities... and maybe what clears up such strange electronic variances is self correcting software. Only it can take several cycles to register and then act.

Btw, thought I'd post this here in case anyone was curious. Some license plate bulb substitutes are just LED encrusted styled bulbs (often the festoon type). The ones commonly being offered for the A3 are whole unit replacements (includes lens and casing). So instead of a replaceable LED bulb inside, it's a PCB with an array of emitters soldered into place. Most appear to have an array of 18 LED's. In my case, one appears to have suffered from poor quality solder that eventually weakened to the point of the emitters falling off.





























The replacement ones I installed seem to be better quality, but only time will tell...


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## dale333 (May 14, 2016)

Started to hear a crunching/thumping/knocking sound coming from the rear when I drive over bumps.  Luckly I'm having the DSG/Haldex oil/filters serviced tomorrow, I'll have my mechanic look at that too.


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## dale333 (May 14, 2016)

dale333 said:


> Started to hear a crunching/thumping/knocking sound coming from the rear when I drive over bumps.  Luckly I'm having the DSG/Haldex oil/filters serviced tomorrow, I'll have my mechanic look at that too.


Easy fix, was the sway bar bushing.


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## absolutt (Aug 10, 2007)

dale333 said:


> Easy fix, was the sway bar bushing.


Good to hear it was simple. I had the same problem with my old Audi TT. Some nasty creaking going on when going over bumps. Bushings replacement totally cleared it up.


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## A3 Wannabe (Feb 22, 2017)

Big ass evap leak, no CEL yet though.  Anyone have a clue what it would cost to refresh all the evap lines?


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## kskreider (Aug 12, 2016)

An expensive week here. 

Replaced the Haldex controller and a passenger side door lock actuator.


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## L_A_456 (Apr 8, 2011)

need to repair passenger door wires


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## absolutt (Aug 10, 2007)

L_A_456 said:


> need to repair passenger door wires


Did the harness start to fray at the segment between the door and the frame, causing broken/faulty connections? If it never happened to your driver's door, would be surprising... unless you're often not driving solo.


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## L_A_456 (Apr 8, 2011)

did the drivers harness a couple of years ago. just finished the passenger side but still no window up or down. i hear the window motor click when the button is used. time to open up the door panel and look at the motor.


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## absolutt (Aug 10, 2007)

L_A_456 said:


> did the drivers harness a couple of years ago. just finished the passenger side but still no window up or down. i hear the window motor click when the button is used. time to open up the door panel and look at the motor.


Did you have to solder in an extra length of wire for several of them? In my case, I used a crimp coupler that seemed to work, for the most part, but just the other day my key fob stopped responding to unlock. Everything else works and the fob will lock all doors, but does not unlock. Probably another wire frayed.


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## L_A_456 (Apr 8, 2011)

i soldered extra wire to the broken ones and the ones that were cracking. so basically all of the wires.


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## absolutt (Aug 10, 2007)

Well, if you were ever curious where your FCM (fuel control module) is located... it's probably the last place you'd look. Under the rear seat!

I removed my rear seat for a replacement. I was actually surprised at how easy it is to remove the bottom cushion. After removing it, I see this peculiar contraption. A round plastic disc with weather stripping around it, and this electronic module.




























While the plastic disc seems like all that's required is to just pull up forcing a release of tabs, you need to use a shim of some kind around the rim. I inadvertently broke off one of the plastic tabs. Still fits OK though. Underneath the disc there was dirt buildup. Looks like there's several layers of sheet metal with gaps throughout, allowing dust/debris to circulate.


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## skotti (Sep 27, 2005)

It is sitting on top of the low pressure (in tank) fuel pump.
I had the relay and the pump replaced a few months ago- was getting fuel cuts with high outside ambient temperatures, and my fuel pump sounded a bit wonky when I opened the driver door. 
Cured both.


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## absolutt (Aug 10, 2007)

skotti said:


> It is sitting on top of the low pressure (in tank) fuel pump.
> I had the relay and the pump replaced a few months ago- was getting fuel cuts with high outside ambient temperatures, and my fuel pump sounded a bit wonky when I opened the driver door. Cured both.


Good to hear you got it figured out. Seems a little weird that the fuel system wouldn't be more robustly shielded from the passenger cabin.
There's a socket in that round plastic part that is empty on mine. Do you have any idea of what was meant to fit inside it?


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## dale333 (May 14, 2016)

I've been having the random LOW OIL PRESSURE TURN ENGINE OFF (or something to that effect), I've replaced the upper oil sensor, didn't resolve issue. I tested the oil pressure and it's good so I'm very happy with that. I bought https://www.europaparts.com/oil-level-sensor-06e907660.html and will be replacing it tomorrow.


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## skotti (Sep 27, 2005)

absolutt said:


> There's a socket in that round plastic part that is empty on mine. Do you have any idea of what was meant to fit inside it?


Sorry, not sure what it's for.


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## groesche (Dec 18, 2000)

I've got this going on, anyone have any ideas?

https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?9336149-Timing-Chain-or-other-Fault-codes-00017-000768-000769-000771-000772-000773


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## Evo V (Dec 29, 2010)

I believe I had the same codes (including the camshaft advanced timing) when my tensioner went couple months ago. I had 5 bent valves as a result of it.


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## jcnix (Jul 25, 2018)

A light just came on this morning for defective auto leveling headlight. Haven't had a chance to look into it, but hopefully it resolve itself because those things cost like $800 a piece.


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## absolutt (Aug 10, 2007)

*Need help on identifying wire-function for driver's door wiring harness*

Last year I'd had that typical problem older A3's suffer from -- some electrical functions stopped working due to frayed wires at the bend point on door harnesses. In my case there were 2 wires that were faulty. The brown one and red/green one. All I had at the time to fix the problem was some crimp connectors. The brown one was fixed with a crimp connector. The red/green one was only half frayed, so I protected it with electrical tape, figuring this would do the job.

Fast forward to the summer, my remote could no longer unlock the car. I had to use the physical key instead. Also, the driver's window wouldn't go down any longer, but all the others worked. I discovered that the red/green wire fully separated this time. The brown wire "appears" to be connected. I can't quite confirm as the metal crimp part isn't see-through. So I fixed the separated red/green wire with a heat shrink solder connector. It seemed to work fine.

My driver's window function is restored. However, I still can't unlock my car with the remote. 

I'd like to avoid disturbing the previous fix I made to the brown wire if it's not the issue. Does anyone here have enough experience with the driver's door loom to know which wires control which functions? Because if the brown wire doesn't control the unlock command, then it must be a more problematic issue with a different wire. I thoroughly examined it (with rubber sheath still attached) and cannot see any other frayed wires.

Thanks for any help.


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## tbvvw (Jun 19, 2002)

My 2007 3.2Q has 2 issues:

1) CEL points to a bad cat converter! Ugh. Sounds pricey...
2) Had some coolant leaking on the driveway and the VW dealer says it's leaking from the thermostat. I guess the gasket for that housing?? They want $1200 to fix?


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## absolutt (Aug 10, 2007)

tbvvw said:


> 2) Had some coolant leaking on the driveway and the VW dealer says it's leaking from the thermostat. I guess the gasket for that housing?? They want $1200 to fix?


$1200 suggests a much more severe problem than just a gasket... unless they're purposefully trying to fleece you. It could be possible that the gasket has degraded enough to leak. Best bet would be to check it out visually, clean off all grime around the housing, then tape some paper towel around it, leave overnight, then check in the AM to see if it absorbed any coolant. But you might want to do this not long after driving the car, so everything is sufficiently warmed up first.


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## tbvvw (Jun 19, 2002)

absolutt said:


> $1200 suggests a much more severe problem than just a gasket... unless they're purposefully trying to fleece you. It could be possible that the gasket has degraded enough to leak. Best bet would be to check it out visually, clean off all grime around the housing, then tape some paper towel around it, leave overnight, then check in the AM to see if it absorbed any coolant. But you might want to do this not long after driving the car, so everything is sufficiently warmed up first.


They say (and I simply do not know) that it's mostly labor due to the amount of things that need to come off the car to get to the thermostat? The VW SA says the manifold, parts of the front end need to come off for access?? Are they wrong?

This is for my 3.2 VR6. For my 2.0T A3, that same job is 30% of the VR6.


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## robotvoice (Apr 7, 2014)

My A3 was making a weird whistling/whining noise so I went ahead and replaced the PCV gaskets. I will say, the whole process of getting the intake manifold off was a bit of a nightmare and my dumbass accidentally broke one of the injector clips trying to put everything back together. Whoever designed the intake manifold for this car should burn in hell. The sound went away at least.


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## absolutt (Aug 10, 2007)

tbvvw said:


> They say (and I simply do not know) that it's mostly labor due to the amount of things that need to come off the car to get to the thermostat? The VW SA says the manifold, parts of the front end need to come off for access?? Are they wrong?
> 
> This is for my 3.2 VR6. For my 2.0T A3, that same job is 30% of the VR6.


Ouch. Sorry to hear that. Yeah, that's one of the key issues I had with the VR6 & why I went with a 2.0T. The VR6 is so crammed into the Golf & A3, that service is a nightmare for things like this. Enterprising VR6 owners may have come up with "shortcuts" to take care of things like thermostat replacement. Might be worth searching around to see what has been sourced.


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

You can get to the thermostat. Take out throttle body duct and air box top and bottom, its all under there. Get the good hose clamp tool with the cable operated jaws. Ive done it more than once on my vr6 a3. No need to remove any manifolds. Just the plastic tstat housing that is bolted to the side of the engine, with a bunch of hoses clamped to it. You can reach down in there and get to it. Get all the o rings ahead of time, like for the crack pipe.


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## #123 (Nov 30, 2014)

Some idiot backed into my car 









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## GvFx (Feb 16, 2015)

#123 said:


> Some idiot backed into my car
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Oh god id be ****ing pissed

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## absolutt (Aug 10, 2007)

#123 said:


> Some idiot backed into my car


Ouch... man, I feel your pain. My unattended fender-bender wasn't as bad... the right fender near the headlight was swiped, making a subtle impression and compromising the headlight seal (it now gathers condensation on very cold humid days). Not bad enough to warrant the high cost of fixing, but every time I look at it, I feel a tinge of annoyance (curse the **** who did it). Anyway, hope your insurance covers it. Make sure you get replacement side markers. Get white or smoked ones & install amber bulbs. Will be a nice improvement on the front end.


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## absolutt (Aug 10, 2007)

I finished a stereo install late last night. Install was long & arduous, with a few headaches. Man, that "A" pillar cover is a bear. Hope I never have to take it off again. Anyway, the DIY video provided by Enfig for the A3 was great. Everything is working fine, even the remote USB ports.

Strange thing happened, though. This morning I went to my to check on the head unit functions. While I'm sitting there after about 15 mins, the "low battery" warning comes on. I was in the midst of running a software update on the head unit. While it's going I hear the engine cooling fans going full bore. I hadn't even started the car. The fans didn't stop until a minute after pulling my key from the ignition. And now? Battery is dead. Can't start car.

Last night I did use the cabin light for a couple hours. Yet the car started up OK. I'm seriously hoping this head unit isn't putting a draw on the car's electrical system while the car is off. But I'm really baffled as to why the cooling fans were running. I'm thinking this has to be a coincidence. I only dealt with the head unit wiring harness, nothing else. Anyone else here experience this? 

*EDIT*: It all cleared up after the jump start. Seems that if the battery is very low, the fan relay can get triggered somehow when engine doesn't even need cooling. After driving for a good 20~30 mins, everything is OK now.


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## #123 (Nov 30, 2014)

GvFx said:


> Oh god id be ****ing pissed
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


Ya at least It's on the only rusty part of my car lol

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## absolutt (Aug 10, 2007)

I posted earlier about having electrical issues with my driver's door. My key fob will lock the car, but won't unlock it. All functions on the door work. Key fob will unlock rear hatch and panic works. I thought the loom was suffering another broken wire problem, but I couldn't see any sign of an insulation breach.

Well, over on Audi-Sport.net, a guy recommended checking the key fob battery. I have a spare key fob, so I tried it... and _*it works*_! So it's the battery. Why the damned hell a low battery would cause only one specific function to stop working and everything else works... is baffling. Anyway. Mystery solved.


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## dale333 (May 14, 2016)

During the winter months here in Des Moines, I started getting a squeak when the heat was on, oddly, it would go away on right hand turns. Anyway, the fan finally went out the day before I was going to drive down to Orlando. Once I got down there, I investigated and it was the blower motor. Bought a new one and wow, that thing is really easy to replace. I first ordered Valeo off Amazon but they sent me the wrong part so I returned it, then ordered Behr Hella from a local shop my brother goes to. I was surprised to find the original was Valeo.


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## sergecur99 (Sep 17, 2005)

*Window problem*

Hadn't driven the car in a couple days and it was parked in the garage. Just moved it to the driveway. Closed all the windows and I go back out a few minutes later and the passenger side window is partially open. Took the car for a short drive, rolled up the passenger window and right away it reopens partially. Did this a couple times and after that no issue. Any ideas?


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## absolutt (Aug 10, 2007)

sergecur99 said:


> Hadn't driven the car in a couple days and it was parked in the garage. Just moved it to the driveway. Closed all the windows and I go back out a few minutes later and the passenger side window is partially open. Took the car for a short drive, rolled up the passenger window and right away it reopens partially. Did this a couple times and after that no issue. Any ideas?


Sometimes the circuitry gets some "bad data" stuck in it. I don't know why. It rarely happens. But I just recently faced something similar.

I had to put a new battery in my key fob, because the UNLOCK function wasn't working. Everything else was fine. So, it fixed the problem. However, when I went to test the remote window down operation (holding unlock), it refused to work. Put the key in the driver's door and hold in unlock position -- windows were not going down. I had to "exercise" the windows manually, from inside the car. Down, Up, Down, Up. Once I did that with each window, the "auto" feature worked. Then I put the key back in the door and yes, I was able to control the windows up/down with it.

Weirdly, though, when I went to close up the windows all the way with the remote, the left rear passenger window went down partially. And when I pressed & held the lock button, again, it went down. And down again. After it went all the way down, it then rebounded and went all the way back up. I tried it again with the key fob -- they all went down, and all back up again to the top. Now? No issue.


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

Once you disconnect the battery, you need to "re-teach" the windows the one-click (and the FOB, if coded) down/up by running the cycle manually from inside for each window.


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## kskreider (Aug 12, 2016)

I have not posted in a while but I recently replaced the lock actuator in the passenger door which caused intermittent door locking, etc.

At the time that was identified, I was getting Haldex controller errors and had the whole controller replaced.

I also just had my water pump fail so that has been replaced as well and my mileage carries me outside of what Audi will reimburse for. (Naturally)

I think that this makes it official and I have now spent more on repairs for my A3 than I did for the initial cost.


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## Evo V (Dec 29, 2010)

kskreider said:


> I have not posted in a while but I recently replaced the lock actuator in the passenger door which caused intermittent door locking, etc.
> 
> At the time that was identified, I was getting Haldex controller errors and had the whole controller replaced.
> 
> ...


Did you receive the reimbursement letters from Audi for the water pump? I got 4 at home - 3 for the audi's and one for the GTI I had. I replaced the water pumps on every one of them. 3 times on my first Audi A3 (75k, 150k, 195k). I haven't read the letters yet to see if they have mileage limits.


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

Evo V said:


> Did you receive the reimbursement letters from Audi for the water pump? I got 4 at home - 3 for the audi's and one for the GTI I had. I replaced the water pumps on every one of them. 3 times on my first Audi A3 (75k, 150k, 195k). I haven't read the letters yet to see if they have mileage limits.



Was that a recall? US only or other countries as well? Got any more info / links please ?


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## Evo V (Dec 29, 2010)

My transmission or clutch went this morning. Car was making some ticking noise from the front left and I was thinking it's probably hub bearing. Now I have to find a garage and open it to see what broke. 

edit: After researching found that probable cause is dual mass flywheel failed.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Looks like the VVT (variable valve timing) valves, intake specifically according to VAD, are getting gummed up! Researching it, looks like the upper timing chain cover has to be removed to get to the valves in order to r & r them. Which, for those who aren't in the know, requires first removing the intake manifold, second removing the valve cover...:screwy:

https://www.r32oc.com/topic/225113-r32-timing-chain-checking/ has the lowdown on how to do this, possibly without doing any mechanical work. Shorter version, change your oil twice as often as factory recommendation!


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## mvp2128 (Jan 4, 2020)

*Clutch Pedal and Starting Issue*

Hey All,
So my big issue at the moment (have a few easier issues) is that my A3 won't recognize that the clutch is engaged when starting even though its pushed in. Nothing is in the way of pushing it all the way down. It started out of the blue last month. Sometimes it wouldn't start without pushing the clutch in anywhere from 3 to 10 times. I've changed the clutch pedal sensor that is attached to the clutch slave cyl twice. The first time I changed it, the car wouldn't recognize the pedal being pushed in randomly, but would start after several attempts. I hoped that maybe the first one I put in was bad. I ordered a second more expensive sensor and still no good. Won't start even after patiently trying dozens of times. Sometimes it would go days without any problems My buddy came over with is VAG-COM and got nothing that seemed related. The ESP sensor is bad, temp sensor, and catalytic converter is on its way out though. We did notice that there is a double clicking noise from the engine when pushing in the clutch. He thought it might be the actual clutch that is causing the problem since the sensor doesn't seem to be the issue. Surprisingly, I'm not finding any good info online at all. Even here. Any ideas folks? I'm trying to avoid towing it to a shop.
Thanks in advance.


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## Nambypamby (Jan 9, 2020)

My car needs cleaning after the long 300 mile ride yesterday.


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

mvp2128 said:


> Hey All,
> So my big issue at the moment (have a few easier issues) is that my A3 won't recognize that the clutch is engaged when starting even though its pushed in. Nothing is in the way of pushing it all the way down. It started out of the blue last month. Sometimes it wouldn't start without pushing the clutch in anywhere from 3 to 10 times. I've changed the clutch pedal sensor that is attached to the clutch slave cyl twice. The first time I changed it, the car wouldn't recognize the pedal being pushed in randomly, but would start after several attempts. I hoped that maybe the first one I put in was bad. I ordered a second more expensive sensor and still no good. Won't start even after patiently trying dozens of times. Sometimes it would go days without any problems My buddy came over with is VAG-COM and got nothing that seemed related. The ESP sensor is bad, temp sensor, and catalytic converter is on its way out though. We did notice that there is a double clicking noise from the engine when pushing in the clutch. He thought it might be the actual clutch that is causing the problem since the sensor doesn't seem to be the issue. Surprisingly, I'm not finding any good info online at all. Even here. Any ideas folks? I'm trying to avoid towing it to a shop.
> Thanks in advance.


I going to go out on a limb here but I suspect your starter motor is the issue


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

Go to vcds into engine block and test the clutch. Push in get a 1 and no push is 0 iirc. I think group 66


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

I decided to try the engine flush method to revive the VVT system, before I took the 3.2 apart to change out the VVT valves. I posted about this earlier: a dubster from Ole Blighty trying to solve the same issue came across the method on the German forums. 
https://www.clubgti.com/forums/inde...tch-or-do-they-the-truth-is-out-there.287374/

The "Long-Life Maintenance" schedule appears to be too optimistic, the interval between oil changes needs to be much shorter than recommended. 


I picked up 2 5-quart jugs of Liquimoly 5-40 (I'm thinking that 5-30 would be better for cold weather), Liquimoly Pro-Flush 500ml, and went to it! After getting the engine up to normal operating temp, driving at highway and city speeds, I pulled into the driveway, poured the Pro-Flush into the crankcase, and let it idle (with me feathering the throttle) for 20 minutes. Then put the car up on jackstands and drained the oil, changed the filter, and filled it with the fresh Liquimoly.


I drove it for a while, and still had the herky-jerky idle. So I put a half-can of the Pro-Flush in and went for a short drive to get the engine temp up. The engine still did the herky-jerky idle. I parked it for a few days, leaving this mixture in the engine. I went out the other day, thinking of the crank position sensor, and to drain the engine again, and upon starting, the engine was idling perfectly! Took it for a warmup drive, drained and filled again with new oil/filter. 


So far, so good...If the idle changes again, I'll report back.


BTW, the 3.2l takes a while to come to operating temperature, 10-15 miles at varied speeds is about right in cool weather, less in warm weather.


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## eurotuned00 (Jul 16, 2007)

Currently cant pass smog due to the catalyst monitor not setting 🏾


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

On readiness? Did you recently clear DTC?


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

My Cupra lip did not survive the recent dump of snow.










As the break point is fairly clean, I was thinking it could be fixed. 











Any thoughts on fixing it ? I thought attaching some sort of a plate in the back and either glue or screw it on and then seal the crack in the front. 

Or does anyone have one for sale?

Thanks,


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## Evo V (Dec 29, 2010)

Bronco said:


> My Cupra lip did not survive the recent dump of snow.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You can plastic weld it from the inside. The welding kits are $15-25 on ebay.


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

Evo V said:


> You can plastic weld it from the inside. The welding kits are $15-25 on ebay.


Thanks Evo V, I'll look into that.


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

Great time to change to a TRC splitter


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

Tcardio said:


> Great time to change to a TRC splitter


Their web site seems to only have one for S3


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

Bronco said:


> Their web site seems to only have one for S3


you must have non S line bumper sorry

https://www.ebay.com/p/7002554293


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## McDubin (Mar 24, 2007)

Hello, kind sirs. How's everybody doing?

Inaugural post since purchasing my A3. Over from the MkIII forums. I've owned my '95 MkIII GLX for 17 years now. Bought it off my older brother when I was a senior in high school. Still have her. VR still runs like a top. Clutch went. Have the full clutch kit to go in, but wanted to do the chains and main seals while I was there, and simply hadn't had the time to do it. She sits and waits. Eventually... Any way. My apologies, I digress.

The VR holds a special place in my heart. For all this time, I hadn't known they put 3.2's in the A3. Once I was informed of this, and I was looking for another ride about a year ago, the research and search began. Unfortunately, I kept coming across literature on transmission issues for the 3.2. Just as I was about to start looking in alternate directions, I came across these premium+, S-Line, Quattro, facelift models. Started researching these. Non 3.2, but Quattro with enough specialty appeal to perk my interest. One finally pops up in my state. Black Optics package, leather and perforated suede LeMans seats, the 9's. Thing was sitting on a Hoffman Audi lot for almost a year. Mileage of 95k, and too old for any type of warranty. Never sold there, and it moved to a mah and pah shop. Sales pictures on Car Gurus were horrible. Figured the car was beat, but wanted to take a look just to get a good baseline on this model. 

When I walked up, I was blown away. Thing was tight. All original, untouched. Wasn't quiet adding up for the price they were asking. What's the catch? Inspected the whole thing and test drove it. Thing shook violently at 70+ mph. Took the gamble, knowing I have the mechanical capabilities, and went for it. Some droning of a front wheel bearing. Took care of both front hubs and grabbed an alignment. Still shook violently. Oh, boy. What did I get into? More research. Upon that, recentered the subframe with the CTS subframe centering shims/spacers and some ARP bolts. Shake gone. It was a scary point, but now sorted.

Now, for the rest. All in the span of this year... Waterpump goes. Luckily had already ordered one knowing they're potential issues. Grabbed a full aluminum one from USP, but hadn't planned on doing it until this winter. Turned into a summer job. Took care of walnut blasting the intake valves and grabbed a catch can while I was there, to sort this direct injection fallout. Figured the waterpump was going to be easier to do with the intake manifold removed, and wanted to take care of carbon buildup anyway. All in all, really not that bad of a job. Thing is to label everything, take note of steps and orientation of things, take your time, and just have the confidence to push forward.

With a little extra money saved, and thinking it's mechanically sorted, I grabbed the ECS performance engine/trans/dog-bone mounts, BC Racing fully adjustable coilovers, and some wheel spacers. Make it my own. Wasn't going to do much more beyond that and called it done. I'm happy. Well, maybe extra engine vibrations from the race mounts developed the next problem. Major oil leaks started to form.

Accessory built got covered in oil and started getting chewed. One thing led to another while I was in there. Upper timing cover, lower timing cover, front main seal, crank pulley, turbo oil feed line attached at the block, oil pan, accessory belt and tensioner. Saw how blow-back covered the intake pipe to turbo was, so grabbed the APR stage 2 intake pipe and kept the factory air box. Figure the air turbulence is created passing the MAF sensor and accordion anyway. Smooth air flow there on out to the turbo, so why spend more money for the box. Took care of the other turbo pipes that were covered in blow-back too. CTS outlet pipe, Spulen throttle pipe. Grabbed what design I liked and made most mechanical sense, instead of staying with one brand.

Beyond that, with the engine hoisted and the timing covers off the motor, figured I'd do the chains. Would be stupid to be that far into this project and not take care of them. Wouldn't you know, what the dealership told me about the chains being done was true. The chain tensioner was already updated and literally only had 2 visible notches sticking out of the tensioner collar. So no chain stretch or worn chain guides were present. Best Christmas present I could've asked for this year. Funds getting low, and the headaches were beginning to get unmanageable.

All back together running like an absolute sewing machine. All that time and work, and it was still leaking. Found it trailing down the front of the block. Leaking from the oil filter housing/alternator bracket/AC bracket. Grabbed all the gaskets from a nearby dealer and went at it once again. Tone of cleanup on mating surfaces, old gasket material, etc. Just finally finished a few weeks ago. She's officially oil leak free now, and running better than ever.

Think someone less patient would've washed their hands of it a while ago. She's sorted, and I absolutely love the car. Nothing like hopping in that thing and letting it breath. Needless to say, we've developed a bit of a relationship over the last year. Worth it? I could definitively say, yes. Apologize on the book of a post, boys and girls. First post here since ownership, and as you've read, there was quiet a bit to cover as far as stuff going wrong...

Looking forward to getting to know all of you, and helping when I can.


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## strangetdi (Feb 5, 2002)

Hoffman Audi?

You in CT?


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## McDubin (Mar 24, 2007)

strangetdi said:


> Hoffman Audi?
> 
> You in CT?


I am. Can see you are too... How long have you had your A3 for?


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## strangetdi (Feb 5, 2002)

About 2 years. It was stock when I got it.


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## absolutt (Aug 10, 2007)

Heh, I almost bought an A4 from Hoffman when I was living in CT. But I passed on it, moving to NJ not long after. I'd heard mixed reviews of it. Judging by the condition of that A3... man. They didn't bother to fix it right, if at all.


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## nbkkb7x (Jan 12, 2009)

Got my ABS sensor finally fixed!


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## Evo V (Dec 29, 2010)

Finally little warm outside. Decided to bleed the brakes after BBK install. Few times that I took the car for a drive I found oil dripping on the ground right underneath the master cylinder. Check everything only to find out that the transmission housing is cracked. I had my driver side axle lose couple months ago I replaced it back then but haven't driven the car since. The axle bridge between the bolts had cut the aluminum housing. Oh, well - ordered replacement transmission from car-parts. Looks like I will have fun project next weekend. :banghead:


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

Evo V said:


> Finally little warm outside. Decided to bleed the brakes after BBK install. Few times that I took the car for a drive I found oil dripping on the ground right underneath the master cylinder. Check everything only to find out that the transmission housing is cracked. I had my driver side axle lose couple months ago I replaced it back then but haven't driven the car since. The axle bridge between the bolts had cut the aluminum housing. Oh, well - ordered replacement transmission from car-parts. Looks like I will have fun project next weekend. :banghead:


Oh man, sorry to hear that


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## Alteredracoon (Mar 27, 2020)

This, https://imgur.com/gallery/KeICz6A getting parts on Friday. Hopefully I can get everything installed.


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## Evo V (Dec 29, 2010)

Bronco said:


> Oh man, sorry to hear that


Removed the transmission last weekend. What you know - the flywheel was almost gone. Had so much play - it was probably about to fail in few thousand miles. removed it and found that the rear main seal was replaced by the previous owner with oem piece but was installed wrong and had small leak already. New iabed rms arrived yesterday along with new flywheel. For good measure I'm replacing the water pump with metal one too. Hope after this work I don't have to touch the tranny for a long time . Oh, and ordered Stage 1 from IE for the ECU. The previous tune was wiped by the dealer when they performed recall on the ABS last fall. Probably will get IE tune for the 8V as well.


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## groesche (Dec 18, 2000)

*Water Pump-Metal*

Is there a preference between the metal water pumps from ECS or USP?

With everything being on lock down, it might just be the time to do this as preventative maintenance


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## A3REDT (Mar 22, 2014)

*RE: Water Pump-Metal*

I used the ECS-supplied metal impeller water pump as part of my timing belt kit, it worked great on my FSI. But I'm not sure if you're talking about a TFSI/TSI water pump or an FSI water pump, I know next to nothing about the TFSI/TSIs


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## groesche (Dec 18, 2000)

Yeah, I should've been more clear. 

It's for a TSI ('12). I've tried searching in the TSI forum but couldn't really find much.

It looks like there's a Graf (ECS) & Hepu (Europaparts) version, and what ever USP's version is (They reference patent pending, so is that their own version or???).

Looking to see if they are all equal or not. I assume all three also ave a metal impeller.


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