# Multiple "short to ground" codes question 1.8t jetta



## Smh007 (Nov 13, 2005)

01 Jetta 1.8t
Problem:
Ive had an issue with starting the car for the last few weeks. I can turn the car over but all it does is crank and crank but will not fire. I tried to pull codes but could not link up. I finally figured it was because of the damn K-wire on the aftermarket radio that was installed by previous owner. I pull the radio and cut a loop wire that the kwire was connected to in the aftermarket harness. I was then able to pull codes associated with the car turning over and over and over but not starting.
The Codes: (all short to ground)
p1117(17525)o2 sensor heater circ. bank1 sensor2 short to ground
p1225(17633)cyl 1 short to ground
p1226(17634)cyl 2 short to ground
P1227(17635)cyl 3 short to ground
p1228(17636)cyl 4 short to ground
p1289(17697)turbo short to ground
p1421(17829)sec.air inj valve circ short to ground
p1425(17833)Tank vent valve short to ground
p1435(17843)sec.air.inj.sys.pump relay circ short to ground
p1530(17938)camshaft control circ short to ground
p1547(17955)Boost pressure Cont Valve short to ground
Ways that ive been able to start the car:
I was able to get the car started by changing the plugs and then jumping it off my w8. The car would fire up at least a dozen times and then back to the continious cranking where it would not fire. I tried to jump it off a friends car (small 4 cyl auto) and it would not happen. As soon as i tried to jump it with my w8, it started up. I started to think it was due to the engine and battery size but who knows. Other ways ive been able to get it started or avoid the issue is if i think its going to just crank i can give it a little gas and then it sometimes fires up. The battery theory could be disolved because i may have flooded the engine with gas....
Its so strange because once i get it started i can start and shut of the car a half a dozen times in a row and not have the issue. There seems to be no known pattern that i can see.
Questions:
What might cause such a wide variety of short to ground issues? Could it still be related to the damn radio? Any suggestions thoughts would be greatly appreciated. 
Thanks in Advance


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## Smh007 (Nov 13, 2005)

*Re: Multiple "short to ground" codes question 1.8t jetta (Smh007)*

Other things done to the car recently: last 12 months or so...
New coils.... a year ago.
New plugs..... 1 week ago.
Timing belt/waterpump/ thermostat/serp belt....1 month ago.
New valve cover gasket....1 week ago.
green top coolant sensor....6 months ago.


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## Smh007 (Nov 13, 2005)

*Re: Multiple "short to ground" codes question 1.8t jetta (Smh007)*

here's what i did today:
Okay...whatever the issue is, it is Not related to the radio. I pulled the radio completely and did not reinstall it. 
I then started the car....It crank slowly one time (kind of like the battery was dead or close to it) then it cranked at a medium pace until it fired up, all in all, maybe 3-4 rotations which sounded like it normally does just at a slower pace. I then drove the car for about 20 minutes and let it run out in the parking lot for another 25 minutes to try and charge the battery back up. 
After the 45 minutes of continuous running, i shut the car down. I then started it back up and it cranked at normal(fast) speed and fired up like it should. I did that a handful times and each time it progressively got slower and slower like the battery was draining. 
I then let it sit for over an hour and went out again and tired to start it. It cranked over very slow one time, the 2 more times at a med pace when it fired up, similar to this morning before i let it run for 45 minutes.
I then checked the alternator. Pulled the positive off the battery to see if the car would die. Car ran fine with the positive off the battery for 4-5 minutes.
I forgot to mention, I dont think it’s the battery because i had it tested at Walmart the other day and they said it was fine/no problems.
I then shut the car off, and tired to start it again and DAMNNNNNN IT. It started that whole damn crank crank crank but would not start. This all happened while the radio was completely out. I pulled the codes and the same 11 short to ground codes logged after the continuous cranking but not starting. These codes only show up when the car will not start.


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## max13b2 (Jul 24, 2007)

*Re: Multiple "short to ground" codes question 1.8t jetta (Smh007)*

OK man, you obviously have a grounding issue. I would begin by REPLACING the ground wire located under the batt box (run a new 4ga wire from batt ground to a new ring terminal to this location, using a little sandpaper to make sure its metal on bare metal), and cleanup the ground wire on the valve cover. Do this and report back http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Smh007 (Nov 13, 2005)

*Re: Multiple "short to ground" codes question 1.8t jetta (max13b2)*

Cool, thanks for the reply. I will put that on the list as the next thing i do.
Although, the starter itself may be taking a dump. Since it grounds through it's housing to the transmission/engine, an internal short to ground would throw a whole ton of engine related codes. 
I'm going to pull it first and have it tested.


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## Smh007 (Nov 13, 2005)

*Re: Multiple "short to ground" codes question 1.8t jetta (Smh007)*

okay, not the starter. Next is Max's suggestion....I report when i have something. 
Cheers



_Modified by Smh007 at 9:46 AM 8-1-2009_


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## max13b2 (Jul 24, 2007)

*Re: Multiple "short to ground" codes question 1.8t jetta (Smh007)*

Also, I forgot to add this in my other post, REPLACE the ground wire on the tranny housing. A few buck for NEW automotive stereo power wire and ring terminals goes a very long way http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
After doing mine the motor was nice and steady at idle.



_Modified by max13b2 at 10:02 AM 8-1-2009_


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## Smh007 (Nov 13, 2005)

*Re: Multiple "short to ground" codes question 1.8t jetta (max13b2)*

Are you talking about the ground that goes from the neg battery lead to the transmission? 
My plan is to replace that whole 4 gauge wire. Clean out the other smaller ground underneith the battery box and clean up the ground ontop of the valve cover.


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## dubchuck117 (Feb 6, 2009)

are those the only codes? my friends car (exact same as yours) had the exact same codes but it also had a long term fuel trim code to enrichen...but if the injectors are shorted to ground the car would run so rich it woudnt know what to do so were replacing the ecu next week and see if that changes anything


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## max13b2 (Jul 24, 2007)

*Re: (dubchuck117)*

Yeah, negative batt to trans, replace that one and the negative lead from batt to under batt box, then use sandpaper to clean up the one on the valve cover. And I stress to REPLACE those cables, not just clean them up. While your at it I would suggest replaceing the alt to batt positive cable also, I gained almost an entire volt doing this http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 




_Modified by max13b2 at 1:52 PM 8-1-2009_


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## Smh007 (Nov 13, 2005)

*Re: (max13b2)*

Awesome, i will do that and let ya know what happens. Thanks Max.
Dumbchuck, sent you an IM.


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## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (Smh007)*

unplug the cam adjuster, and clear the faults. bet thats bad. paypal me diag if it fixes it


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## crazyass713 (Dec 28, 2006)

*FV-QR*

Fuel pump relay


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## Smh007 (Nov 13, 2005)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VW1990CORRADO* »_unplug the cam adjuster, and clear the faults. bet thats bad. paypal me diag if it fixes it









You think the cam adjuster is bad? 
****, i hope not.
Or do i just need to disconnect the clip and reset it?
Thanks


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## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (Smh007)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Smh007* »_
You think the cam adjuster is bad? 
****, i hope not.
Or do i just need to disconnect the clip and reset it?
Thanks

i want you to unplug it, and clear the faults. see if all but cam adj go away. hard to diag without the car, but i have a small hunch.


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## Smh007 (Nov 13, 2005)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*

Okay, i will let you know tomorrow if i find anything out. 
As mentioned in earlier posts, the problem comes and goes. After i finished cleaning off all the ground wires and i reinstalled the starter today, the car fired up just fine. Its done that before though. I let it run for about 30 minutes so the battery would be good hand fully charged. 
I will try to start it in the morning and see if i have the slow start again or just the "turning over" and not starting. If i do ill give what you said a shot. 
Thanks


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## Smh007 (Nov 13, 2005)

*Re: (Smh007)*

Well....Here's the update:
Went out this morning, started the car, fired right up. No slow crank, no continous turning over, nothing. Right as Rice...
So, i'm going to watch it, try and start it and drive it every day for the next week and see if the problem resurfaces. If it doesnt, it looks like the main battery ground just needed to be replaced along with the grounds under the battery box needed cleaned out. 
Update to come next time something happens.
thanks to everyone's help! I hope i dont need any more


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## Smh007 (Nov 13, 2005)

*Re: (Smh007)*

Bahahahaaaa, 
So, after letting the car sit for a few hours. Went to start it up and it kinda start slow, but started. Drove it to a couple spots, left it running while i went inside. On my last stop, i decided i needed to shut it down to see if it would act up. 
Went into Panara, got lunch for the wife and i, and then went back outside.
Turned the car over, slowwwwwwwww first crank, then slowly crank over and started. 
This time however, the CEL, ABS, and the traction light were all on. Also the brake light was blinking continuously. The car seemed to run fine. I drove it home, about a mile. Shut the car off when i got home, then started it back up. Started fine like nothing was wrong. Still had the CEL but the other lights were off and the brake was not blinking. So, i pulled the codes (2) and here what they were.
17544 (p1136) 
and 17608 (i cant find this code in bentley)
Going to try a few differnt things...


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (Smh007)*

I looked it up on Bing for you and found..
17608- wastegate bypass valve mechanical malfunction


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## McBee (Aug 11, 2006)

*Re: (Smh007)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Smh007* »_
and 17608 (i cant find this code in bentley)
Going to try a few differnt things...


17608/P1200/004608 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction
Possible Symptoms
 * Power Loss 
Possible Solutions
* Check Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249)


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## Smh007 (Nov 13, 2005)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*

Well, I dont think it's cam adjuster related. When the car started acting up again (turning over but not starting), i unhooked the clip to the cam adjuster, cleared the codes and then tired to start it up again.
It did start up fine. Then i shut the car off and i tired to start it up again. It reverted back to the not starting thing. So i again, pull the clip off the cam adjuster, cleared the same 11 codes and then tired to start it up again.
It fired up fine. so i did this process 2 more times (4 total) with the same result. So i figured vw1990corrado was right. Well, on the fifth time, i just cleared the codes (i did not pull the cam adj clip) and after that the car started up. Drove it about a mile, came home, shut it off, and then started it up 7-8 times in a row with no problem. So i dont think it was the cam adj because i could get it to start by just clearing codes(not clearing and pulling the cam adj clip). 
Any thoughts?
As far as the other codes go, heres what ive established. The p1136 i bet is a vacuum leak. And the other code, the 17608 is because the previous POS owner deleted the vacuum reservior off the valve cover and its firing a soft code.
I cant began to explain how crappy of a shadetree mechanic the person was


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## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (Smh007)*

still think its the adj. if you unplug it and clear faults, and drive it and only have the adj fault. theres the problem.


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## Smh007 (Nov 13, 2005)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*

That's what i'm saying. I have tired to start the car, cleared the codes(11), got it running, driven the car, then tired to restart it all over again but i always get the same 11 faults. Ive never only got the camshaft fault. Its always been either the eleven "short to ground" or the p1136 and 17608.
Is it your experence that when the adjuster is bad, it fires all these short to grounds? Or just the cam short to ground? 
When thats the case is it the whole cam adj assembly or just the part that the port clips into?



_Modified by Smh007 at 6:34 PM 8-2-2009_


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## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (Smh007)*

all. but u can unplug it(keep unplugged), clear it and they dont return. with it plugged in hard fault.


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## Smh007 (Nov 13, 2005)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*

ahh, i see.... I always plugged it back in before i started it. I have never left it unplugged. I figured it wouldnt run. I'll give it a shot and report back!


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## Vdub4me97 (Jun 26, 2009)

*Re: (Smh007)*

Smh007
I see you had to fix the K wire to get the codes from the start.
I need to do the same with my aftermarket radio.
Could You explain what u did a little more?
Thanks.


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## Smh007 (Nov 13, 2005)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*

vw1990corrado, thanks a million for all your help. I did a little work on the car after i got off work.
Heres what ive found. 
I started the car when i got home, started slow but fired, then let it warm up and then shut it down. Then I restarted the car 3-4 more times until i got the issue of the car "not starting" to resurface.
I then checked the codes. After i got the same 11 codes, i cleared them, pulled the cam adj clip, then tired to restart. The car cranked and cranked but did fire. I tired to pull codes....No code record this time. Pulled the cam adj back in. Car started up. Then shut the car down and then tired to restart and got the no start issue. Pulled codes again (with the cam adj clip installed) and i got the 11 codes again so...
cam adj clip out, no start no code.
cam adj clip in: no start (11) codes.
So, is this what you thought would happen? 
Is it the whole cam adjuster assembly or just the sensor clip? 
Do you know of a DIY. Ive pulled cams off of a vr before so im familar with TDC and cam removal, just not with cam adj removal.


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## Smh007 (Nov 13, 2005)

*Re: (Vdub4me97)*

vdub4me97, sent you a PM. Let me know if you have questions


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## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (Smh007)*

feel free to paypal diag








i have only seen that once happen. but rang a bell.
you need to replace the cam adjuster, its inbetween the cam shafts, in the cam chain under the valvecover.


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## pugi03 (Mar 14, 2007)

good i m goona do that too, same thing here, but diff codes.


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## Smh007 (Nov 13, 2005)

*Re: (pugi03)*

what codes are you pulling? 
Is your just car just turning over with out starting too?


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## headache56 (Sep 27, 2007)

Looks like you guys are a lot more experienced than me but I had a starting problem caused by a worn ignition switch. My car cranked at the regular speed and either started or did not start but it never cranked slowly. I got a lot of those Short to ground codes also.


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## maddenbowler (Dec 17, 2006)

and a bad fuel pump relay will throw a bunch of short to ground codes


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## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VW1990CORRADO* »_feel free to paypal diag








i have only seen that once happen. but rang a bell.
you need to replace the cam adjuster, its inbetween the cam shafts, in the cam chain under the valvecover.

you refer to the VVT cam adjusted on the g'box end, not the camshaft position sensor on the cam belt end yea?
never heard of this but a good tip to try.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (badger5)*

yes the vvt adjuster.


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## MkIVwarrior (Mar 9, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (crazyass713)*


_Quote, originally posted by *crazyass713* »_Fuel pump relay


x2
Same codes in my buddies car told him to replace the relay, starts every time! Same exact codes even with the cam adjuster code thrown, it all was the by product of that fuel pump relay.
HERES WHAT A BAD TENSIONER SOUNDS LIKE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oIhKXCbuOCM

A bad cam chain adjuster makes a loud clank clank clank noise while at idle, it typically doesnt throw a code until it is VERY worn. The part itself considering you have VVT is around $340 (mjmautohaus).
How do I know????????? Did mine last week.
Obviously remove the valve cover.
1. To replace the cam chain tensioner pull the intake cam only, make sure the two cam windows are on top. The exhaust one should be one tooth to the left, the intake should be in the middle. I marked mine with a china marker to make sure the position would not be forgotten.
2. Compress the tensioner using vw tool 3366. Unbolt the 4 bolts holding the tensioner in place.
3. Now remove all the cam retainers INTAKE CAM ONLY. Pull the cam positioning sensor off as well. Now the cam should be lose. Pull the cam out vertically, (the cam plug will still be attached). Remove the cam from the chain and replace tensioner. 
4. Place the intake cam back into the chain making sure the marks you made on the chain coincide with each other. You also can verify that *16* rollers are between each window! THIS IS ESSIENTIAL OR YOU WILL BE OFF TIME!
4. There is a seal bellow the tensioner as well, half moon and metal gasket. Put RTV sealant on the top of the seal or it will leak.
5. Also put RTV sealant on the rear cam retainer (thats the one that crosses all cams bently says its a must). Replace all retainers starting outside in. Torque is said to be 16nm for all retainers. 

IF YOU ARE HAVING TROUBLE YOU CAN LOOSEN THE EXHAUST RETAINERS BUT DO NOT REMOVE THE CAM. THIS WILL PRRRROOOOOLLLLLONNNNNG THIS ENTIRE SWAP.
6. Install in reverse. 

Took me about 2-3hrs just being very VERY careful. Everyone chime in if more needs to be added

_Modified by MkIVwarrior at 6:30 PM 8-4-2009_

_Modified by MkIVwarrior at 6:32 PM 8-4-2009_


_Modified by MkIVwarrior at 6:39 PM 8-4-2009_


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## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (MkIVwarrior)*

i recommend using whiteout on the sprocket/chain to locate it. 
it doesnt have to clank to be bad


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## maddenbowler (Dec 17, 2006)

personally i would try the Fuel pump relay first. Its a whole lot cheaper then the cam adjuster and you can probably get it at a local auto store


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## Smh007 (Nov 13, 2005)

*Re: (maddenbowler)*

Thank everyone, I am going to try the fuel pump relay first. I do have a slight ticking at idle but i'd like to give it a simple relay a shot first. 
Anyone know where about this relay is?


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## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (Smh007)*









the clanking is a "hello sludge" wakeup call.
youre aware the adj has an electric solinoid right? 


_Modified by VW1990CORRADO at 10:10 PM 8-5-2009_


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## NaturalDisaster (Aug 6, 2009)

i have a 2001 Audi s3, i replaced the actuator valve and reconditioned the Turbo, But my car feels like its not boosting and limits at 5000Rpm, Please advise as to what it might be


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## MkIVwarrior (Mar 9, 2007)

*Re: (NaturalDisaster)*

The fuel pump relay is located under the dash almost exactly under tr steering wheel. It's easy to find math the relay numbers


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## NaturalDisaster (Aug 6, 2009)

*Re: (MkIVwarrior)*

hello
My car is the 2001 Audi s3, im having a problem with boost and car cuts of at 5000rpm....any dears?


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## [email protected] (Nov 3, 2008)

*Re: (Smh007)*

E-mail me your VIN and I will get you a relay diagram for your vehicle and also a wiring diagram and see if there is another relay that is in control of the short to ground items you are getting.


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## [email protected] (Nov 3, 2008)

*Re: (Smh007)*

But I am thinking either FP relay or SAImotor Relay both can cause the short to ground codes and the SAI relay can also cause hard to start issues and drain the battery if the SAI pump is being energized when the vehicle is off. Also had one car bite me when I worked in the dealer as a tech that ended up with a bunch of short to ground codes I want to say it was an ignition switch but I think it was throwing different codes.


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## Aronc (Jan 30, 2006)

*Re: (maddenbowler)*


_Quote, originally posted by *maddenbowler* »_and a bad fuel pump relay will throw a bunch of short to ground codes

yup aswell check fuse 43, mine blew and i had a whole slew of short to ground codes...


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## [email protected] (Nov 3, 2008)

*Re: (Smh007)*

Fuel pump relay should in slot 4 under the dash marked 409, also one other thing to maybe look at is the 14 pin connector near/below the battery see if it has coolant or any watter damage as some of the circuits for the solenoids you are getting codes for run through this connector as well.


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## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: ([email protected])*

wait didnt the short to ground codes go away once he unplugged the vvt? am i missing something here?


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## NaturalDisaster (Aug 6, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (MkIVwarrior)*

Please can you help me.... i have posted a question about my audi s3...


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## Smh007 (Nov 13, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (NaturalDisaster)*

NaturalDisaster: You might get more responces if you post your question in its own thread or....SEARCH for your answer. 
Going to change out the Adj next week. Ive ordered the part and its in route.


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## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Smh007)*

the best way to verify is to unplug one sensor/solinoid at a time untill the short to ground faults go away for reference everyone.


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## ilie.vw.tech (Dec 31, 2008)

*Re: Multiple "short to ground" codes question 1.8t jetta (Smh007)*

your fuel pump relay!!! replace it


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## ilie.vw.tech (Dec 31, 2008)

*Re: (McBee)*

have a vacuum tester and check you bypass valve see if its holding vacuum.

_Quote, originally posted by *McBee* »_
17608/P1200/004608 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction
Possible Symptoms
* Power Loss 
Possible Solutions
* Check Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249)


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## chilenoONvw (Sep 18, 2005)

we got the same problem , 
vw bora , was at the shop for 5 days , new clutch , new timming belts , new water pump , fix starter , and then the car was out for a test drive and died getting back to the shop .
then after the scan , 11 faults , same as described before . we tested the fuel pump relay , 409 with one from a friends gti , and nothing , we tested the bora relay on the gti and the gti run great ( the test last 1 full day ) then we change the battery , and the car starts , that was like 2 weeks ago .
we tried the cam position sensor , plug and unplugged , also the shop guy told us that the car its sucking energy from the fuel pump . 








for the moment the car run great , no star problems , no cel , no nada ¡ still it was so weird so we have no idea of how it got fix , just by changing the battery .


_Modified by chilenoONvw at 6:58 PM 8-7-2009_


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## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (chilenoONvw)*

each time you unplug , start it and scan for faults, clear, plug in the sensor and unplug another (from the fault list) and repeat untill faults are gone.


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## Smh007 (Nov 13, 2005)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*

I'm going to put my head threw a brick wall.







The previous owner stripped out one of the torx barring cap bolts. So now i'm left with that, Any good tips for something like this...
After 4 days of rain, i was finally gear up to change out the cam adj and now this. ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.


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## crazyass713 (Dec 28, 2006)

*FV-QR*

Wow, those cam cap bolts don't strip easily...


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## Smh007 (Nov 13, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (crazyass713)*

Well, they can strip if you have a moran working on ur car. I have never owned a car with so many different "wrong" things done to it. A bolt that held the tensioner in wasnt even finger tight when i started so some obiviously had jerked with it before. 
That being said, i was able to get the strip bolt out. I used a different torx bit and was able to get it out. 
I had a hell of a time getting the camshaft sprocket off the chain.
After i finally got it off, i was able to pull the tensioner adjuster with little problem. Marked my TDC with white out and again had a hell of a time getting the cam sprocket back on the chain. That is by far the most difficult part for me. 
I then ran out of daylight so i'm going to wait until morning to finish it up (valve cover install, chech the timing, ect.)
Ill report tomorrow.


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## Smh007 (Nov 13, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Smh007)*

Well, should have called it a night much earlier yesterday. When i went out this morning in good daylight, i noticed that my exhaust cam was off one tooth so it pushed my intake cam off center. So the whole thing is off time right now. 
To make things worst, i started to depress the tensioner and the plastic section on left part on my tool broke. 
So anyone who reads this in the future, make sure you watch how many times you crank this down. They will break. Live and learn. So i will call around and see if i can find one of these tools today. If not, then ill just have to order one and wait.


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## dubchuck117 (Feb 6, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Smh007)*

so this is definetly the problem or you just tryin it out?


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## dwntrdr (Mar 29, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Smh007)*

Just wondering if this was ever resolved...
I am getting similar symptoms on my VR6. This morning the only 'diagnostic' (w/ CEL light on) was a coolant system fault. Going to look at the suggestions in this thread to see if any of them might be the problem (fuel pump relay ... etc.)
Also going to look at cleaning / replacing the suggested wires... with so many ground faults, a wiring issue seems a likely culprit...
Rob.


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## Balomo41 (Apr 2, 2009)

*Re: Multiple "short to ground" codes question 1.8t jetta (Smh007)*

I recently had some short to ground codes and never fixed my electrical, except that I fixed (changed) 6 solenoids in my valvebody.
after I changed the battery I have no electrical problem so far.
Even when a battery is new can be bad, my battery was 1 year old yet caused problems, I did not know until I tested it and found that one of the cells was damaged, probably causing short to ground.
if anyone out there have simular problem, don't forget to check your battery too.


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## diggy84 (Sep 3, 2014)

*Electrical issue 99.5 vw jetta vr6 AFP and car running rough!*

I am getting many electrical short to ground codes and i cleaned the terminals under the battery box and the car is still running really rough and really rich! I noticed that on the alternator there is a visible nut that is on a screw and there is no wire attached to it! The kid i bought the car from just had the alternator replaced. The camshaft sensor also had oil in the plug and was bad and i replaced it and still runs rough and when i down shift it pops like a lil bit of backfiring going on!My MIL and ABS and a the other lights in the middle cluster will not illuminate and my temp gauge is also not moving. I am going to check the converter to see if it is clogged but i want to figure out the electrical short faults that i am getting! Here is the scan!
20 Faults Found:
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30 
P1602 - 35-10 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected 
P0300 - 35-10 - - Intermittent
16687 - Cylinder 3 
P0303 - 35-10 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
16497 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42) 
P0113 - 35-10 - Signal too High - Intermittent
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) 
P0102 - 35-00 - Signal too Low
17834 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80) 
P1426 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
17950 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187) 
P1542 - 35-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
17952 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187) 
P1544 - 35-10 - Signal too Large - Intermittent
17580 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Signal too Low 
P1172 - 35-10 - - Intermittent
17633 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1 (N30) 
P1225 - 35-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent
17637 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 5 (N83) 
P1229 - 35-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent
17635 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 3 (N32) 
P1227 - 35-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent
17638 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 6 (N84) 
P1230 - 35-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent
17880 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump 
P1472 - 35-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent
17843 - Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299) 
P1435 - 35-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent
17829 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112) 
P1421 - 35-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent
17636 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 4 (N33) 
P1228 - 35-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent
17923 - Intake Manifold Valve (N156) 
P1515 - 35-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent
17634 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 2 (N31) 
P1226 - 35-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent
17525 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating Circuit: B1 S2 
P1117 - 35-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent
Readiness: 0110 1101

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Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1J0-907-37x-ABS.lbl
Part No: 1J0 907 379 H
Component: ABS/EDS 20 IE CAN 0001 
Coding: 03604
Shop #: WSC 00066 
VCID: 3663DDFA12827BAE71B-4B1A

3 Faults Found:
01276 - ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64) 
16-00 - Signal Outside Specifications
00290 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Left (G46) 
35-00 - -
00287 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Right (G44) 
35-00 - -

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Address 15: Airbags Labels: 1J0-909-60x-VW3.lbl
Part No: 1J0 909 609 
Component: C AIRBAG VW3 SG 0002 
Coding: 00067
Shop #: WSC 00066 
VCID: ECD7BF929C4E717ED7F-4B1A

1 Fault Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+ 
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

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Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1J0-919-xxx-17.lbl
Part No: 1J0 919 951 B
Component: A4-KOMBIINSTR. VDO V57 
Coding: 06262
Shop #: WSC 00000 
VCID: 2F6DE89EEDD84A6632D-5142

1 Fault Found:
01039 - Coolant Temperature Sensor (G2) 
29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1J0-959-799.lbl
Part No: 1J0 959 799 AJ
Component: 61 Zentral-SG Komf. 0001 
Coding: 04096
Shop #: WSC 00066 
VCID: 8603ED3AA2E2AB2E21B-4AE8

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1J1959801C
Component: 61 T?rsteuerger. FS0001r 

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1J1959802D
Component: 61 T?rsteuerger. BF0001r 

Subsystem 3 - Part No: 1J4959811C
Component: 61 T?rsteuerger. HL0001r 

Subsystem 4 - Part No: 1J4959812C
Component: 61 T?rsteuerger. HR0001H 

4 Faults Found:
00953 - Interior Light Time limit 
25-10 - Unknown Switch Condition - Intermittent
01358 - Internal Central Locking Switch; Driver Side (E150) 
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
00912 - Window Regulator Switch; Front Left (E40) 
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
00944 - Heated Exterior Mirror; Passenger Side (Z5) 
35-00 - -


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## diggy84 (Sep 3, 2014)

*I just bought a 99.5 burgandy bora 2.8 liter AFP and i am getting all the short to grounds also! Was yours burgandy? I replaced 409 relay and still the same faults !*



chilenoONvw said:


> we got the same problem , <p>vw bora , was at the shop for 5 days , new clutch , new timming belts , new water pump , fix starter , and then the car was out for a test drive and died getting back to the shop .<p>then after the scan , 11 faults , same as described before . we tested the fuel pump relay , 409 with one from a friends gti , and nothing , we tested the bora relay on the gti and the gti run great ( the test last 1 full day ) then we change the battery , and the car starts , that was like 2 weeks ago .<p>we tried the cam position sensor , plug and unplugged , also the shop guy told us that the car its sucking energy from the fuel pump . <br> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/confused.gif" BORDER="0"> <br>for the moment the car run great , no star problems , no cel , no nada ¡ still it was so weird so we have no idea of how it got fix , just by changing the battery .<BR><BR>
> <i>Modified by chilenoONvw at 6:58 PM 8-7-2009</i>


 I just bought a 99.5 burgandy bora 2.8 liter AFP and i am getting all the short to grounds also! Was yours burgandy? I replaced 409 relay and still the same faults !


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

diggy84 said:


> I am getting many electrical short to ground codes and i cleaned the terminals under the battery box and the car is still running really rough and really rich! I noticed that on the alternator there is a visible nut that is on a screw and there is no wire attached to it! The kid i bought the car from just had the alternator replaced. The camshaft sensor also had oil in the plug and was bad and i replaced it and still runs rough and when i down shift it pops like a lil bit of backfiring going on!My MIL and ABS and a the other lights in the middle cluster will not illuminate and my temp gauge is also not moving. I am going to check the converter to see if it is clogged but i want to figure out the electrical short faults that i am getting! Here is the scan!
> 20 Faults Found:
> 18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30
> P1602 - 35-10 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent
> ...


Short-to-ground codes don't usually indicate a ground problem, especially when you have multiple ones. They usually mean the + voltage is missing or weak, which could result from a broken or corroded supply connection, or a blown fuse, or bad relay or switch that is common to all the sensors, valves, etc., that are throwing codes. I notice that the airbags + voltage is low also.


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