# cams on mkiv 2.0 jetta



## William2.0 (Jun 22, 2009)

Hi all, I have a mkiv 2.0 jetta auto. trans. and I'm thinking about putting a tt260 cam in and a tt chip. can anyone give me some suggestions?


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: cams on mkiv 2.0 jetta (William2.0)*

What suggestion do you want?


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## William2.0 (Jun 22, 2009)

*Re: cams on mkiv 2.0 jetta (ps2375)*

well, i'm not sure what's a good setup for an automatic transmission, and what kind cam i need to use and chip?anything u can tell me will be great.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: cams on mkiv 2.0 jetta (William2.0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *William2.0* »_can anyone give me some suggestions?


How about... search is your friend around these parts.









http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4316748
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?&id=3593309


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

autotech 270.


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *tdogg74* »_autotech 270.


X Eleventy billion.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Jay-Bee)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jay-Bee* »_
X Eleventy billion.


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## e24ohm (Jul 5, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (tdogg74)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tdogg74* »_autotech 270.
i thought ODBII doesn't like 270 cams and retainers and springs would need to be updated as well.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

why wouldnt an OBDII motor like a tiny 270 cam? They like 288's well enough. 
And FWIW, I say the 270 because 
A) The TT260 and AT270 have 0* valve overlap @ 50thou valve lift. So why go with a smaller profile when it wont mess with the vacuum needed for the shush box trans.
B) TT stopped selling the symmetrical 260. 
C) Which would leave your other options for a 260 duration to be TT's 260/256 & AT's 260/256 asymmetrical grinds...which are a waste of money in anything other than an FI car. 
D)????
E) Profit


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## e24ohm (Jul 5, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (tdogg74)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tdogg74* »_why wouldnt an OBDII motor like a tiny 270 cam? They like 288's well enough. 
And FWIW, I say the 270 because 
A) The TT260 and AT270 have 0* valve overlap @ 50thou valve lift. So why go with a smaller profile when it wont mess with the vacuum needed for the shush box trans.
B) TT stopped selling the symmetrical 260. 
C) Which would leave your other options for a 260 duration to be TT's 260/256 & AT's 260/256 asymmetrical grinds...which are a waste of money in anything other than an FI car. 
D)????
E) Profit

wow i have no clue what you are talking about; however, doesn't running a cam over 270 need new heavier springs and retainers?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *e24ohm* »_
wow i have no clue what you are talking about; 

Then you better start reading up then.

_Quote, originally posted by *e24ohm* »_however, doesn't running a cam *with a lift over .432"* need new heavier springs and retainers?


Yes


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## e24ohm (Jul 5, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (tdogg74)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tdogg74* »_
Then you better start reading up then.
Yes


can you recommend some reading material for books for cams? I do not understand what you are talking about.
thank you.


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## e24ohm (Jul 5, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (tdogg74)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tdogg74* »_

How do you keep the ODBII computer from tripping the check engine light?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (e24ohm)*

Stock camshafts are designed by the manufacturer to have a smooth idle and give optimum fuel economy with excellent drivability from idle to a modest redline. While this is ideal for “normal” cars, it is a hindrance when building an engine for all-out performance. Replacing your stock camshaft with a more aggressively-ground camshaft is the first step in letting your head move air more efficiently. Greater volumetric efficiency produces horsepower and torque.
Camshafts are sold by their Advertised Duration number. This number represents the actual seat-to-seat duration (as expressed in crankshaft degrees) taken at a .1mm checking height. When choosing a camshaft, the advertised duration will give you an idea as to where the power band will be. Generally speaking, a higher duration number translates into your usable power band being pushed further up the rpm range.
The Lobe Separation Angle (LSA) of the camshaft lobe is where the peak lift occurs in crankshaft degrees either BTDC or ATDC. The LSA is the result of your lobe centerlines added together, then divided by two. Some camshafts are ground with identical lobe centers (e.g. 110° + 110° / 2 = 110°) while others have mismatched lobe centers (e.g. 109.5° + 110.5° = 110°). Although both cams share the same 110° Lobe center, their performance will be much different. The LSA will be a determining factor in what your valve overlap will be in relation to the duration you decide to go with. High-duration camshafts with wide LSAs (e.g. between 106°-110°) are ideal for upper rpm power and produce a lumpy idle. Narrower LSAs (e.g. 111°-115°) accentuate low-end torque and provide a smoother idle.
Lift is the total amount of valve movement created by the camshaft. Increased valve lift increases the total amount of power made over the entire rpm band. Watercooled VW/Audi heads use cam followers between the lobe and the valve stem. This means that the total lift provided from the camshaft lobe is the same lift that the valve will see.
It is important to remember that “bigger is better” does not apply here and that over-camming a head is a rookie mistake. Make sure you do your homework before investing. A camshaft well-matched to the head’s flow characteristics will deliver maximum torque and power across the desired power band. A cam that is ill-matched to the engine’s spec or the application (e.g. commuter vs. rally vs. drag) may make a vehicle slower if not simply unpleasant to drive.
A total valve lift of .432" is the generally accepted lift ceiling on camshafts for heads with OEM single valve springs. (Generally, but not limited to, all OBDII heads) It is strongly suggested upgrading to an HD dual valve spring set-up mainly due to the strength of the spring cannot handle sustained high rpms without incurring valve float. Coil bind is also an issue, and occurs as soon as .440". It is of my own personal opinion that camshafts with lifts higher than .432", but up to .449", can be used as long as normal driving conditions are adhered to. Damage to the engine will inevitably occur if driven beyond the OEM single valve spring's ability. I personally would never suggest anyone run their engine in this manner. Coil bind (coils touching) occurs as soon as a .440" lift and I have a OEM valve srping to prove this. Don't ever go cheap; ALWAYS replace/upgrade the first time around. Earlier heads come factory with a dual spring setup. These dual springs can safely handle a high lift camshaft. Keep in mind that these are not considered a heavy duty dual spring setup and may cause issues on really aggressive camshafts. Upgrading to a heavy duty spring set is strongly reccomended for engines that frequently see sustained high rpms. (I.E auto cross, drag racing, hill climb, ect) It is also strongly recommended that new cam followers (aka lifters) be used when installing a new camshaft. Flat tappet cams sometimes have taper across the face of the lobe. The tappet will have a slight convex radius to match this taper. When camshafts break-in the taper over the nose and the radius of the lifter is slightly worn in. If you run a lifter with a reduced (worn) radius against a new lobe with correct taper, the edge of the lobe will have concentrated loading. This high load can cause the camshaft material to break down rapidly causing a failure.


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## phatmonk (May 22, 2009)

Dude great explanation!!!!!!!!!!I have been following this forum for quite some time now.I have learned alot.Including all the DIYs.Thanks


_Modified by phatmonk at 3:19 PM 7-22-2009_


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## vdubxcrew (Jul 25, 2004)

*Re: cams on mkiv 2.0 jetta (William2.0)*

William,
I have the same model car as you and am doing a complete re-built to the motor this week. I also was on the search for a good upgraded cam that my car would like for a daily driven automatic. I chose the TT260 for the simple facts that: A) it is an AUTOMATIC trans car. It simply does not rev over 5500-6000 so there is no need to get a cam that produces most of it's power in very high rpm's. This would be a waste. The TT260 has plenty of added lift over stock and a generous low/mid powerband increase. Perfect for daily use. B) there is no need to replace the valve springs for HD ones. And should not throw CEL. 
I have been hearing many good things about the AUTOTECH 270 cam. They have much popularity here in the 8v forum. I believe you may or not be successfull installing these along with stock springs on an AUTO TRANS ONLY simply for the fact thatthe car doesn'trev as high where the most damage can occur. This is risky though and completely up to you. As for chip, there really is no "chip" to be bought.Your computer must be re-flashed with a performance file. Which means you will have to send your ecu out to one of the few companies who do AEG 2.0 flashes (GIAC, UNITRONIC, UPSOLUTE, C2) or take it to a dealer who does the flashloading on site. It will cost you roughly $250-$350 plus flashload fee of around $80 for this. It'salot of money but from what I've heard makes a huge difference in throttle response and better fueling maps to give increased acceleration, even on automatics. Hope this helps. And one last thing. It is true, TT is no longer selling the 260 symetrical cam, but there should still be vendors out there who have a few left on their shelfs. I got mine from Bahn Brenner. It was about $140 shipped. I believe for a daily driven AUTO, you can't go wrong with this cam. Good luck.


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## William2.0 (Jun 22, 2009)

*Re: cams on mkiv 2.0 jetta (vdubxcrew)*

can you update me on your cam installation?how was it?


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## sipediesel (Nov 7, 2009)

*Re: cams on mkiv 2.0 jetta (William2.0)*

I put the neuspeed 262 degree cam in my mkiv 2.0 and it didn't throw a check engine. It was expensive tho.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *sipediesel* »_I put the neuspeed 262 degree cam in my mkiv 2.0 


No you didnt. They dont sell a 262* cam. You sure you dont mean 260*?


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## vdubxcrew (Jul 25, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (tdogg74)*

OK, I have the TT260 cam in my 2000 MK4 AEG and let me tell you, it's pretty mild. I then added a EIP ECU and it's still more mild than what I was hoping. I can't speculate on the AT 270 as I've never tried one, but I'm thinking this would have been the better choice. I just didn't have the extra $$ at the time to upgrade the valve springs. The car pulls harder once past 3000rpm with the 260 but just not quite enough. It is an auto trans though. I'm sure the pull would be much better with a manual.


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