# Finally got the heads off and this is what I found...



## MEDEL514 (Jan 12, 2002)

For those that don't know, my car started hesitating while driving and then started blowing a thick cloud of white smoke out the tailpipe. I immediately shut down the motor and rolled into a parking lot. Long story short, I rented a trailer and towed the car back to the house thinking I had to change a blown head gasket.








When I started tearing into the motor, I first took out the spark plugs. The #2 spark plug was the only one that looked abnormal...I mean...catastrophic!
















What lies beneath?!?!?!








I had to order the 6pt. poly drive tool from the Audi dealer that finally came in today, now time to take the heads off. What I thought was a blown head gasket, turned into a bit more work than I anticipated. I'll let the pics explain the rest...








































I don't know what the heck happened, but the middle intake valve snapped off its stem, chewing up the head, bent 3 other valves, and ate a hole in the #2 piston. I don't think the head is repairable since some of the gouges go deep near the valve seats, unless there is a machine shop around that knows their stuff to be able to mill down the gouges and replace the valves and seats. I hope the chunks of piston didn't damage anything else when they fell into the block. It looks like the car will be out of service for a lot longer than I thought.








New motor? Or rebuild this pile?


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

*Re: Finally got the heads off and this is what I found... (MEDEL514)*

Wow...I've seen exhaust valves neck down and loose their heads due to high spring pressure and the heat they are subjected to..but an intake valve?....We're you running low octane gas...or maybe a knock sensor failure allowed lots of detonation?....Looking at the damage, I'd say finding a used motor with low miles would be your best option...like you said...who knows what damage the bits 'n pieces caused down in the bowels of the motor after they punched thru the piston crown!


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## Geordie (Jun 22, 2001)

*Re: Finally got the heads off and this is what I found... (MEDEL514)*

Wow! That's impressive. I've never seen a plug like that. I've seen engines damaged at least as badly and rebuilt though, but Ihave no good advice on the rebuild/replace question, jus glad it didn't happen to me (touch wood).


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## oksidzen (May 20, 2006)

*Re: Finally got the heads off and this is what I found... (MEDEL514)*

Wow. Thats terrible!
I'd recommend checking the cylinder walls very closely for any damage. If they are smooth still, drop the pan, pull the blown piston... see if you can find a good used piston, get a set of rings, and get rod bearings. hone out the cylinder for good measure (I'd use a berry ball hone), and slip the new piston in with new rings, rod bearing...
Then confirm with VW whether the ACK engine code is essentially the same as the ATQ, and if so, buy my extra head, and install with all new gaskets.
Thats where I'd start. Should be able to pull it all off fairly inexpensively, supposing you can find a used piston. That could be harder. Maybe put up a want ad on the 'tex here. Never know what someone has laying around. But get the rod with the piston, and use both.
Oh, btw, I'm not responsible if you do what I suggest and it doesn't work...







Its just what I'd try to do.


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## tryin2vw (Dec 30, 2006)

*Re: Finally got the heads off and this is what I found... (MEDEL514)*

Wow, sorry to see the damage. A slight difference from one suggestion: Find a used piston and rings, IF the existing connectiing rod is ok, use it (the proper journal size). Good luck, wish I could be of more help.


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## oksidzen (May 20, 2006)

*Re: Finally got the heads off and this is what I found... (tryin2vw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tryin2vw* »_Wow, sorry to see the damage. A slight difference from one suggestion: Find a used piston and rings, IF the existing connectiing rod is ok, use it (the proper journal size). Good luck, wish I could be of more help.

Thats a good idea... I was thinking for some reason putting in the new rod bearings would allow for any difference for the new rod to the crank.. but you're right. Using the old rod would probably be better.
The old or new wrist pin should work well with the new piston and old rod, I would imagine.
Good luck, and keep in touch!


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## MEDEL514 (Jan 12, 2002)

*Re: Finally got the heads off and this is what I found... (oksidzen)*

Let me know if you guys have any good websites to buy one new piston. I can buy the rings locally for 50 Euro, but noone here seems to sell a piston. 
I may end up just pulling the whole motor out since it will be easier to change the piston, and I can change the clutch out at the same time. 
Here goes more money into the pit!


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

*Re: Finally got the heads off and this is what I found... (MEDEL514)*

I'd not reuse your old rod unless you can have it "aligned"... here machine shops will align rod (straighten and make sure wrist pin and bear bores are in line with each other), hone out bearing area and grind down the cap ends to maintain proper bearing bore size. While the piston was beating the valve head against the cylinder head there's a good chance the rod was bent in the process!


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## oksidzen (May 20, 2006)

*Re: Finally got the heads off and this is what I found... (MEDEL514)*

Sent you an IM


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

*Re: Finally got the heads off and this is what I found... (oksidzen)*

buy a used engine







dont hack together the car, its a vw it wont run right unless you fix it properly.


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## MEDEL514 (Jan 12, 2002)

*Re: Finally got the heads off and this is what I found... (Slimjimmn)*

I'm still weighing my options, this ACK motor is hard to find stuff for, let alone a complete new motor. If I can find another complete version (i.e., AHA, ATQ, AFC, etc) I'll have to research all the compatability issues that might come along with it. For example, I know the ATQ is drive by wire, and the AHA has a bunch of US emmisions that the Euro ACK's don't have. That will be a chalenge in itself! If I can find an ACK head, then I'm gonna keep it simple and just rebuild this pile...


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

*Re: Finally got the heads off and this is what I found... (MEDEL514)*

the base block of the atq is the same. All you would need to do is use the ack intake manifold and exhaust manifolds and throttle body and possible swap over oil pressure sensors (or buy new ones) everything alse should be bolt up (for the block and heads). Also the ack uses a hydraulic cam tensioner not a hyd and electric like the atq does so you might have to swap over the cct (or buy new ones heh).


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## MEDEL514 (Jan 12, 2002)

*Re: Finally got the heads off and this is what I found... (Slimjimmn)*

I'm trying to see what heads will be compatable to my engine block. 
So far I have this list of part numbers:
078 103 266 BX for the ACK Head <-- this is the one I need!
078 103 266 AX for the AHA Head
078 103 266 KX for the AFC Head
078 103 266 EX for the ATQ Head
078 103 266 LX for the ATQ Head
What is the difference in the last two digits of these parts numbers (AX, BX, EX, KX, LX)??

If the only difference between the ACK and ATQ is the CCT, then that would be great, I could swap that out no problem. The rest of the head is the same (intake and exhaust mounts?)?


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## newtome (Aug 1, 2009)

*Re: Finally got the heads off and this is what I found... (MEDEL514)*

I don't know what you're gonna do but these guys are pretty knowledgable; autohausaz.com I'd also use google by trying several different searches. I often find ideas when I check out links that aren't exactly what I want.
Never saw a piston that bad but if you do try putting in anotherpiston at least make certain the rod isn't bent. 
I gotta ask how did it run up to the time you pulled over? Seems like it might have been bad a while. Is that coolant in #1 cylinder?


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## MEDEL514 (Jan 12, 2002)

*Re: Finally got the heads off and this is what I found... (newtome)*

It ran great up to the last minute. I was in a tight road in the moutains of austria when it started chugging. I pulled over and shut it off to look at the timing belt and anything else out of the ordinary, but saw nothing. Started it up again and it wouldn't idle without a little gas pedal finessing, but it had no knocking or any other noise other than the new chugging sound. Since I was on the side of a tight mountain road, I decided to continue on to get the car somewhere safer, but I didn't make it very far when I heard a small pop from the motor and a white screen of smoke out of the tailpipe. I then shut her down and rolled into a church parking lot where she sat until I came back with a trailer. 
Now that I have the motor all tore apart, what I think happened was when it first started chugging, the broken valve head had somehow bent or got damaged. Then when I was trying to drive on it to a parking lot, the valve broke off all the way and eventually made the motor into what it is today. 
Hopefully I'll get an engine stand and cherry picker this week and can have the motor out this weekend to inspect the rest of it. More to come on this...


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## MEDEL514 (Jan 12, 2002)

*Re: Finally got the heads off and this is what I found... (MEDEL514)*

Got the motor out all the way this weekend! The rest of the block looks great, I'm going to press on with the rebuild. Hone cylinders, new bearings, bolts, etc. I got a new clutch on the way too. I need to get this car back on the road, it getting to cold in the mornings to be riding my motorcycle everyday!


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## MEDEL514 (Jan 12, 2002)

*Re: Finally got the heads off and this is what I found... (MEDEL514)*

So, almost a month later, I got the motor put back together in my Garage this weekend!!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif















I had alot of hold ups, from taking evening classes, ordering special tool after special tool, waiting on parts to come in from the states, German Parts stores ordering the wrong parts, and waiting on the new head, but I finally had everything I needed when the piston rings arrived in the mail this past friday!!! I bought most of the parts from AZAutohaus.com. I used them all the time when I lived in Phoenix because their prices are great and they were right down the block. Even now with shipping, their prices are still better than what I can get on the local German Economy, and our US dollar sucks compared to the Euro!!!
Got the new head in the mail this past Monday and started swapping the CCT, covers, and misc bolts n such








Got the piston rings in on Friday, now I have everything I need to get the motor back together! I honed the cylinders a couple weeks ago and got out all the marks and scrapes. 
Another thing I noticed was that the #2 pistons' oil squirter was clogged up shut. I'm wondering if the lack of oil cooling on the piston attributed to the #2 middle intake valve to overheat and sheer off like it did. 
















Got all the pistons back in and everything torqued to specs! Upper and lower oil pans on too








Had some little helpers keeping me company!!








Got both heads on and the timing belt installed! I rotated the crank a bunch of times listening closely for knocks, everything seems to be smooth!!!








Now she looks like a motor again!!! Hopefully I'll be able to get her shovel'd back into the car next weekend. 








I'm so excited to get this beast back on the road, its been just sitting around so long begging to get back on the Autobahn!!!!
So what is the best method to use when I first start the car? Like how do I get the coolant and oiling systems primed up before cranking her over? How about initial idle period? how long should I let her run before putting a load on it? Please chime in on the best procedure for breaking her in the right way. Thanks!!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## oksidzen (May 20, 2006)

*Re: Finally got the heads off and this is what I found... (MEDEL514)*

I'm so glad I could help with supplying a head. Seeing it in your photo, knowing its in Germany, going to be driven on the autobahn gave me a smile from ear to ear.








I sure hope everything goes super smooth for you. I'd tell you how to prime everything, but I'm not entirely sure what would be the best way to do it. As far as I know, as long as you used engine assembly lube on all the moving parts as you put it together, that it should last the few moments before oil is pumped to all the vital spots.
Oh, and you may want to run standard oil for the first oil change.. not synthetic. And be sure to change it after about 500 miles or so.
This may be the case for brand new motors, not used parts, but I'd do it if it were mine, just to be safe.
Good luck, and thank you again, and it looks fantastic!


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## litesleeper (Sep 19, 2009)

*Re: Finally got the heads off and this is what I found... (oksidzen)*

Before you prime, hand crank to make sure all timing marks are on. no interferance. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
The best way to pirme:
Fill oil filter, squirt a little oil in plug hole, crank over for 60 sec with plugs out.
Install plugs, start.

Thank you for sharing your experience with everyone. First for me to see a valve fail like that.








Good luck with the re-install and start-up.


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## MEDEL514 (Jan 12, 2002)

*Re: Finally got the heads off and this is what I found... (litesleeper)*


_Quote, originally posted by *oksidzen* »_Oh, and you may want to run standard oil for the first oil change.. not synthetic. And be sure to change it after about 500 miles or so.

I already have the 10W-30 Dino oil for the break in period. I'll do the change somewhere shortly after 500 miles after everything breaks in. The head worked out great! Thanks again! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif









_Quote, originally posted by *litesleeper* »_The best way to pirme:
Fill oil filter, squirt a little oil in plug hole, crank over for 60 sec with plugs out.
Install plugs, start.

Now this makes me wish I would've lubed the cyilinder walls before I put her back together








Once I get all the fluids filled up, should I hand crank the motor a bunch of times to get the pumps working a bit? I'm just worried about running the motor 'dry' before all the oil start pumping to where it needs to be, especially in the crank/cam bearings and lifters...


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## litesleeper (Sep 19, 2009)

*Re: Finally got the heads off and this is what I found... (MEDEL514)*

Cranking with the plugs out will fill the oil pump and should pressurize the lubication system. No plugs= no compression= faster crank rpm.
About 60 sec is enough to coat moving parts with oil. Insert plugs and fire it up. Check for leaks before you drive.
Good luck


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## MEDEL514 (Jan 12, 2002)

I got the motor installed this past week. I was able to squeeze in a couple hours a day to put all the last nuts and bolts back on. The only problems I ran into were exhaust bolts breaking off, and a bunch of stuff that did not want to go back together easily. Th AC compressor was a PITA, the Exhaust manifolds were a PITA, the Starter and Alternator was a PITA, but everything else was pretty straight forward.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Got the new Sachs installed!








Like a glove.....that was two sizes too small!!
























All the rest of the bits and pieces
















And a beer for celebration!








http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## MEDEL514 (Jan 12, 2002)

*Re: Finally got the heads off and this is what I found... (MEDEL514)*

So today was the maiden voyage around the block. 
First let me say that I did the break in as carefully as I could have. After putting in all the fluids, I hand cranked the motor a bunch of time till my arm was going to fall off, Left the plugs out and ran the starter for two intervals of 60 seconds a piece to prime the oil pump and can tentioners. then started it up and let her run for 30 minutes, three different times until I was able to get the collant levels to stabilize, and got a pesky exhaust leak fixed. Everytime I started it, it was just a little rough for the first few seconds, but stabilized very quickly.
Today I went out, let her warm up again, the backed her out of the driveway for a trip around the block, she still started up the same way, rough for a few seconds, then stable. When I put her in reverse to back out, she felt like she wanted to stall unless I gave her some gas which is abnormal. Even going down the road, she was rough at anything below 1500 rpm's, but anything over 1500 rpm's, everything got smooth and calm in every gear. 
Something is happening at low rpm's and idle. So I know the two common problems are the collant temp sensor or the coil pack and wires. I'll throw a new coolant temp sensor in there, but is there anyway to test the coil pack and wires before I go dropping $150 on some new ones? What else should I look into for this issue? 


_Modified by MEDEL514 at 1:19 PM 10-12-2009_


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## tryin2vw (Dec 30, 2006)

*Re: Finally got the heads off and this is what I found... (MEDEL514)*

Recheck the spark plug wiring, making sure they go to the right plugs. Firing order is on the plate in front of the coil. Also check for vacuum leaks as it can cause a rough engine.


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## MEDEL514 (Jan 12, 2002)

*Re: Finally got the heads off and this is what I found... (tryin2vw)*

Spark plug wires are fine, the wires are numbered as well and cut to length. I swapped in a different set of plugs and got the same rough idle results. The coil is working great, I pulled each wire one at a time while it was running, grounded it, and confirmed an arch from all six. 
I also unpluged the fuel injectors one at a time while it was running. Each time I unpluged one of them, the engine idle'd down and got sluggish, then went back stabilized as soon as I reconnected it. This was the same for all six fuel injectors. 
I'm still confused as to what to look into. I replaced all of the braided cloth vaccum lines while the motor was out, and I'm almost certain that there isn't anything disconnected. Are there any other suggestions?
Tommorrow I'm going to pull the valve covers off to check the cams one more time, but I'm postitive that they are still aligned. I turned that motor a thousand times while it was on the stand and the cams were on point every time, but I'm gonna check again anyway since I'm out of ideas.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

*Re: Finally got the heads off and this is what I found... (MEDEL514)*

try unpluggin the maf sensor and see if it bogs out.
Also its easier to check compression than pull the VC and check timing. If the compression is low the timing is off. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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