# 1971 VW Super Beetle Build-Up Thread



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

Ok, here we go.








My brother, jetbug, and I own a 06 Shadow Blue Beetle














, and I am usually surfing the Mk4 and 337, Gli, and 20th AE forum as well, I am in love with those cars. 
After having purchased my car, and being in love with VWs for quite some time, I wanted a project car. At first I wanted an Mk1 Rabbit of Jetta, but that search did not go so well. 
One day I was searching The Samba, and I found a 1971 Super Beetle for $600, a pretty good deal, I think. He told me that the car was running, and since I wanted him to bring it hear, we agreed that he would trailer it to Northbrook, IL, where I live for another $50. So we agreed on $650, and the next Saturday, the car was at my door. He drove it up onto our driveway, but we it would not start afterwards. We finally got it to run without stalling out when it was already up on jacks, and the wheels and interior had been stripped. There was a fuel pump kill switch that we did not know about. Yes, we are morons, but the owner never informed us of one. 
This was the first weekend: 
Us trying to push start the car, after already getting a new battery, and cleaning the carb.
























That did not really work, so I decided to rebuild the carburetor, because that seemed to be the problem. I purchased a carb rebuild kit form JC Whitney, and got to work. 
My work station: 








That was no help at all, but the carb is now clean, and I will not have to worry about it in the future.
Here I skip a few elements. 
We jacked the car up, started taking the interior out, and all of the panels that we could take off. We decided to do the best job of restoring it, and making it look better, as we could. 
























































No more interior:








Engine removal: It is red because I think it was rebuilt 70,000 miles ago.
























Is it not beautiful? 








Skipped a couple of weeks. Here is the car, body disassembled form the chassis: 








































Tranny:








This is what the back end of the car looks like rite now:








This is the “daily driver”:
















Finally made it to AutoZone to get a 17mm hex bit socket.
The trailing arms: 








What the front of the chassis looks like:








The back end of the chassis, with the trailing arms off:








All I have left to do, until the car is completely stripped, is unbolt the doors and cut the floor pan off. 
I am not sure how I want to go with this project, I think I want to go Euro look, with it being lowered and have 17inch rims. Also, want to have a very nice, semi modern interior, but I am not sure yet.
It would also be nice if it had a Porsche 911 gauge cluster and steering wheel.
I think that I am about to lose the deal I have with this guy form Texas.






















But, oh well








I will be asking many questions, but those I will make separate posts. 
Suggestions are more than welcome. 
Thanks for all of your help!








And sorry for the horrible pictures, I always work on the car after school, and by the time I am done, its dark outside, and I have minimal lighting in my garage.











_Modified by 71DubBugBug at 4:51 PM 1-9-2007_


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## Noshujate (Nov 15, 2005)

2 things on the engine stalling thing:
1.) adjust the valves
2.) take the hose going from the oil spout to the carb. filter and throw it in the trash...it will also stall the car...
both were things i ran into, mine is a 72' super


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

When we found the fuel pump kill switch it fired up and there was nothing wrong with it.
But thanks anyway.


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## 1302Frank (Dec 16, 2006)

*Re: (Noshujate)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noshujate* »_2 things on the engine stalling thing:
1.) adjust the valves
2.) take the hose going from the oil spout to the carb. filter and throw it in the trash...it will also stall the car...
both were things i ran into, mine is a 72' super

1.) the valves do need to be kept up with every oil change.
2.) that is supposed to help crankcase venting, and it would help to be there. I don't understand why that would cause an engine to stall. Besides, without it the air filter now has a big hole for stuff to get sucked up into.
I would also try to get the paint off the heads and the cylinders. The rough bare metal surface dissipates heat better. 
anyways, I'm a fan of lowered supers with wider fiberglass fenders, and more modern wheels. but not slammed. And otherwise relatively stock. Maybe some stock interior components from a Porsche or other car.
























use your own judgment with removing/painting the trim pieces, sometimes it looks better, sometimes it looks worse.









This is my car, which I did on a budget. One day when I can store it in a garage and not worry about people messing it up, I'll make it look nice. But until then, form follows function.








It's missing a headlight trim piece, the bumpers and the running board is all dirty, but you get the idea. Rustoleum. 


_Modified by 1302Frank at 2:29 PM 12-26-2006_


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## oasis (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (1302Frank)*


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## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (oasis)*

some links for you:
http://www.superbeetlesonly.com
http://www.toplineparts.com
http://www.germanlook.com
http://www.71sbeetle.com (my website, go to the technical section, it's VW Trends 71 Super that was fully restored)




as it sits right now, waiting for the new engine .....


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

As you can see, we need to change the floor panels. 
We checked the sites and didn't find anything.
How do we do this? Do we cut them off? is there anything we can do except for cutting them off?
What do people usually do? 
Also, how do i convert my 4-lug beetle to the modern porsche 5-lug pattern? I saw a good priced disk brake conversion kit at toplineparts.com, but can I redrill them?


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## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

topline can get you rotors in any bolt pattern I believe. also x-drilled and slotted if you want. also www2.cip1.com has kits where you can choose the bolt pattern, but their adapters are flimsy (I speak from experience there)
you could buy just the rotors from cip1.com if topline cant get you the bolt pattern you want.
check this for the floor pans, and anything else you could need. (Volume 6)
http://www.bugmevideo.com


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## ZeroTO60inWhenever (Jan 3, 2007)

Hey whats up Guys... sorry to change the Subject... but I just bought a pretty beat up 71 Super beetle about 3 weeks ago and finally lookin up parts for it... theres no rust on it what so ever but I just got to lookin at wheels last night and all I could find was EMPIs... so I'm stressed right now and I was wondering... could you help me find a Conversion kit from a 4x130mm Lug Drum brake to a 5x100 Lug Disc brake kit ?...
I know its a bit much to ask about... but its really makin me mad. lol.... if you find one send me the link or email me and lemme know... Thanks guys =] its good to know that ppl that care about Bugs are still around...


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## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (ZeroTO60inWhenever)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ZeroTO60inWhenever* »_Hey whats up Guys... sorry to change the Subject... but I just bought a pretty beat up 71 Super beetle about 3 weeks ago and finally lookin up parts for it... theres no rust on it what so ever but I just got to lookin at wheels last night and all I could find was EMPIs... so I'm stressed right now and I was wondering... could you help me find a Conversion kit from a 4x130mm Lug Drum brake to a 5x100 Lug Disc brake kit ?...
I know its a bit much to ask about... but its really makin me mad. lol.... if you find one send me the link or email me and lemme know... Thanks guys =] its good to know that ppl that care about Bugs are still around...

call John at http://www.toplineparts.com http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

now i just gotta figure out what bolt pattern i want
whats the bolt pattern on modern porsches 5X???


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## 1302Frank (Dec 16, 2006)

Porsche is 5x130.. though the selection is somewhat limited, and much more expensive.
5x100 will give you a larger selection of wheels and seem to be cheaper as well..


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## ZeroTO60inWhenever (Jan 3, 2007)

Hey 71sbeetle... thanks man I was lookin at the site last night before I posted... so I can call and get them drilled for 5x100mm ?... if thats so then thats a great deal man... because I was dumb enough to look at the bolt on conversions where its just a cut steal plate with the lug holds drilled out and you just bolt it to your bug and then bolt the tires on... and I would know how that would turn out... all 4 wheels running away from the car on the freeway. lol but thanks man... your a great help... and I'll be back to ask more about some parts... =]


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## ZeroTO60inWhenever (Jan 3, 2007)

Ok quick question... I got old Hot vw mags from like 70's and 80's... but I was lookin through them and seen theres a Front Spoiler for a super beetle... but of course the net didn't come out till like 94... lol so could someone help me find one ?... and not the air scooped one. lol just the solid fiberglass front spoiler... and one more thing... where are the custom decklid emblems ?... all I could find were Cal Look, hot rod, Streetmachine and the original Volkswagen one... wheres all the Volkswagen GT emblems ?.. lol sorry to bug you guys about all these worthless parts... its just its the 2nd bug I've ever ownd... I had a 75 Fuel Injected Autostick that I never got around to fixin abd I had to hand it over to my friend back home







...


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## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (ZeroTO60inWhenever)*

http://www.aircooled.net carries the Kamei front spoiler, I also have one here


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## Tuggle (Aug 19, 2005)

keep up the good work


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

This project is killing me.















I need HELP!!!
So all I got to take off are those big moving arms in back. And I think that's a hex socket that I need to take them off, and quite a huge one. What size is it?
This one: 








A picture to give you an idea of what you are looking at:








What size takes that off?
Also, the brakes: 








What size is this one? 
Thanks



_Modified by 71DubBugBug at 12:52 PM 1-4-2007_


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## GLdubber (Jun 13, 2006)

36mm socket and a breaker bar to remove the brake drum, looking into the tool for the trailing arm removal, be right back.


_Modified by GLdubber at 12:56 PM 1-4-2007_


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## GLdubber (Jun 13, 2006)

Found it, 17mm hex should do the trick, be careful as the trailing arms and torsion bars are under some pressure.


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## 1302Frank (Dec 16, 2006)

I think the trailing arm thing is the same size as the trans drain plug. Which I'm pretty sure is a 17mm hex head. You might be able to find a socket version at a local hardware store.
For the rear drum's I recommend getting one of these http://www.thesamba.com/vw/cla...94557 . There is another way of doing it with a large socket and some leverage, but you have disassembled too much for that to work I think.


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

thanks a lot
gotta go find sockets that big, and a hex that big


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## GLdubber (Jun 13, 2006)

*Re: (1302Frank)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1302Frank* »_For the rear drum's I recommend getting one of these http://www.thesamba.com/vw/cla...94557 . There is another way of doing it with a large socket and some leverage, but you have disassembled too much for that to work I think.


Forget you have the body off, there's another tool that you can get that may be a bit cheaper than the axle buddy tool, here's a link...
http://www.800luvbugg.com/shop?frame=3.30.4681
Also here's the 17mm transaxle drain tool that will work for the trailing arm as well....
http://www.800luvbugg.com/shop?frame=3.30.7416


_Modified by GLdubber at 1:15 PM 1-4-2007_


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## 1302Frank (Dec 16, 2006)

*Re: (GLdubber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GLdubber* »_
Forget you have the body off, there's another tool that you can get that may be a bit cheaper than the axle buddy tool, here's a link...
http://www.800luvbugg.com/shop?frame=3.30.4681
Also here's the 17mm transaxle drain tool that will work for the trailing arm as well....
http://www.800luvbugg.com/shop?frame=3.30.7416

_Modified by GLdubber at 1:15 PM 1-4-2007_

The torque tool works by being bolted on to the drum with 2 lug bolts and runs along with a gear and like 20-30 ft lbs... I was thinking it would be difficult for him to turn it without the e-brake or anything to hold it still.


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

thanks again, someone fromy my fathewrs work has these the tools i need, all i needed were the sizes, but thanks for your help again


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## GLdubber (Jun 13, 2006)

*Re: (1302Frank)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1302Frank* »_
The torque tool works by being bolted on to the drum with 2 lug bolts and runs along with a gear and like 20-30 ft lbs... I was thinking it would be difficult for him to turn it without the e-brake or anything to hold it still.

One step ahead of me, probably the best idea based on application, just wanted to offer the alternatives but I think your idea works best. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by GLdubber at 1:45 PM 1-4-2007_


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

71sbeetle
In the pictures of your car, you have a turbo boost guage.
What kind of turbo do you have on your super?
because I would love to have a turbo, but its hard to find one that will fit under the "hood"


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## ZeroTO60inWhenever (Jan 3, 2007)

yea 71sbeetle thats exactully what I was lookin for =] ! but whats the part number for it because I can't find to order forum on aircooled... and what do you mean you have one with you... you mean an extra one !?. lol... nice lookin bug by the way... so the front spoiler fits one the stock metal fenders for a 71 super ?... or do you needa buy fiberglass fenders and apron to ?... because I am ordering all 4 new fenders for my bug... lol its a pretty beat up bug... but its clean =] thanks man... like I said... its good to know you kinda guys are still around







... Bugs needa get popular again...


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## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1302Frank* »_
The torque tool works by being bolted on to the drum with 2 lug bolts and runs along with a gear and like 20-30 ft lbs... I was thinking it would be difficult for him to turn it without the e-brake or anything to hold it still.

get a piece of metal (cant remember the name right now, it's the right angled one) long enough, drill a hole big enough to put a lug bolt thru, bold it to the drum, put a second bolt in the drum and rest the bar against it, no need for ebrake to hold it







that will actually hold it better







oh and I dont like the other tool, it's not really good for your axles, or crank if you use it to remove your flywheel








or if you are "rich" you can buy one of those








http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDe...2D145


_Quote, originally posted by *71DubBugBug* »_71sbeetle
In the pictures of your car, you have a turbo boost guage.
What kind of turbo do you have on your super?
because I would love to have a turbo, but its hard to find one that will fit under the "hood"

No Turbo .... I was supposed to get a 1600T kit from AJ Sims, but after over a year of waiting he just refunded my money .... I am getting a new engine (2017cc) in a week or so, that will, when I have money again, get a modified CB Performance Fuel Injected turbo kit







if you want some Turbo info go to http://www.shoptalkforums.com and go to the Forced Induction forum







oh and on a Bug it's called a decklid









_Quote, originally posted by *ZeroTO60inWhenever* »_yea 71sbeetle thats exactully what I was lookin for =] ! but whats the part number for it because I can't find to order forum on aircooled... and what do you mean you have one with you... you mean an extra one !?. lol... nice lookin bug by the way... so the front spoiler fits one the stock metal fenders for a 71 super ?... or do you needa buy fiberglass fenders and apron to ?... because I am ordering all 4 new fenders for my bug... lol its a pretty beat up bug... but its clean =] thanks man... like I said... its good to know you kinda guys are still around







... Bugs needa get popular again...

uhhh ..... just go to http://www.aircooled.net and seach KAMEI ! it's there







make sure you get the super beetle one (if you have a super) it attaches to the bumper, and has 2 optional mounting points on the fenders (I didnt use them) you can use it with any fender. I have the one in the picture and another brand new one







but I wont sell them


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## ZeroTO60inWhenever (Jan 3, 2007)

jeez... 300 bones from my good ole pocket for that ?... theres none that are cheaper than that ?... I mean I know its a hard to find part... but I just ordered all new front and back fenders, new front and back aprons, and new hood... so I'm pretty broke right now. lol


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## ZeroTO60inWhenever (Jan 3, 2007)

oh and one more thing... whats the widest wheel you can put on a bug ?... because I'm goin with the Old GT style bug... and now I'm not gettin a wing or nothin for it... was just gonna get that front spoiler... cut some holes in the back quarter fenders and run some hoseing from there to the engin compartment to help the engine breath better... pretty much I'm makin my bug a GT Drifter... I know it sounds pretty childish... but I am 16 you know. lol and you know a kids car needs to be fast and cool lookin =]


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## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (ZeroTO60inWhenever)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ZeroTO60inWhenever* »_oh and one more thing... whats the widest wheel you can put on a bug ?... because I'm goin with the Old GT style bug... and now I'm not gettin a wing or nothin for it... was just gonna get that front spoiler... cut some holes in the back quarter fenders and run some hoseing from there to the engin compartment to help the engine breath better... pretty much I'm makin my bug a GT Drifter... I know it sounds pretty childish... but I am 16 you know. lol and you know a kids car needs to be fast and cool lookin =]


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## 1302Frank (Dec 16, 2006)

*Re: (ZeroTO60inWhenever)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ZeroTO60inWhenever* »_oh and one more thing... whats the widest wheel you can put on a bug ?... because I'm goin with the Old GT style bug... and now I'm not gettin a wing or nothin for it... was just gonna get that front spoiler... cut some holes in the back quarter fenders and run some hoseing from there to the engin compartment to help the engine breath better... pretty much I'm makin my bug a GT Drifter... I know it sounds pretty childish... but I am 16 you know. lol and you know a kids car needs to be fast and cool lookin =]

make your own thread, and invest in a full roll cage before anything else. It will stiffen up your car and save you from that tree.


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

About that roll cage, where can I find one that is decently priced?
Also, the wide wheels, could anyone answer that question by any chance?
Also, anyone know about the wide fender kit on this site?
http://markvfiberglass.com/catalog/kits/kits.html
Are there any other sites that have better wide fenders?


_Modified by 71DubBugBug at 9:46 PM 1-5-2007_


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## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

Creative Car Craft http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*

Whats a reasonalbe price for a set of chrome Porsche Twists?
The front are 17X8.5 and the rear are 17X10.
The chrome is in okay condition, with several scratches here and there.
these:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/cla...66823
Will look so good on my car.










_Modified by 71DubBugBug at 12:04 PM 1-6-2007_


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## ZeroTO60inWhenever (Jan 3, 2007)

*My Red 71... kinda banged up...*

ok well I am just posting pics up of my 71... to show you what I'm working with. lol


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

nice, enjoy your build


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## aircooled traitor (Jun 22, 2004)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

ker-CHIZZLE!


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

Since I am kinda on a budget, I am going to stick to fairly stock performance.
My question is what I should do with the engine and tranny.
I would like to purchase a stock rebuild kit, which go for around $300, but would like to put a little more money into the engine, and maybe work a bit on performance.
I know that I want an oversized oil pan and a nicer exhaust. 
But here is my real question:
What's practical to do on a budget build with the engine? Is it difficult to put a big bore piston and cylinder kit? Is it worth the money? If I do put a big bore kit on, must I also upgrade my heads? And if i am forced to change htis, is it not better to just purchase all the components seperatle instead of gettin the kit and not using half of it?
Another important topic:
What should i be doing to my tranny? Should I leave it the way it is? Or should i play around with the gears? 
What I guess I am aslinkg is how to get reliable performance for cheap? 
*Links would be great! *
Thanks


_Modified by 71DubBugBug at 5:19 PM 1-9-2007_


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## 1302Frank (Dec 16, 2006)

cheap, performance, reliability - pick two of those.


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## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (1302Frank)*

hehe, exactly what I was going to say, and I personally picked
performance and reliability
like Gene Berg used to say .... "Cry only one" (when your wallet gets empty from buying high quality parts) http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*

I chose:
Performance and Reliability
Any of the numerous sites on the aircooled FAQs that I should visit?
Any particular performance kit that gives modest performance, and reliability? Or any good place to get the parts seperatly?
greesha


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## ZeroTO60inWhenever (Jan 3, 2007)

well what I'm still stomped about it I will be getting a Conversion kit for the front from 4x130 Drums to 5x100 Disk... but I'm gettin back ones to but change she from the 4 lug drum to 5x100 drum... so really what I need to find out is whats the widesr wheel for a stock bug ?... please help me. lol


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## DubsMcGee (Jul 31, 2005)

*Re: (ZeroTO60inWhenever)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ZeroTO60inWhenever* »_well what I'm still stomped about it I will be getting a Conversion kit for the front from 4x130 Drums to 5x100 Disk... but I'm gettin back ones to but change she from the 4 lug drum to 5x100 drum... so really what I need to find out is whats the widesr wheel for a stock bug ?... please help me. lol

Dude start your own thread, you are making this one impossible to read.


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## oasis (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (ZeroTO60inWhenever)*

My '71 with Kamei front spoiler, BBS wheels from Wolfsburg Jetta (5x100 bolt pattern), and four-wheel disk brakes (and other stuff) from TopLine:


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## ZeroTO60inWhenever (Jan 3, 2007)

Nice bug man... very clean...
Heres a pretty dumb question... I just got back from drivin my bug around seein if theres any lag or sputter to the engine... and I realized my bug has no pickup what so ever... I mean I know its a 1600 CC witch is 65 hp right ?... but even you could drive it and say its only puttin out 42 hp... so wheres the best place to get some higher CC turnkey motors ?... because this engine has really seen better days....
and VDubMcGee... sorry man... but this post is all about 71 Supers... and I needed help... and I actully started my own post about 2 weeks ago ?


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (ZeroTO60inWhenever)*

This post is not about 71 Supers 
*Its about MY 71 Super*
Get the difference?
Sorry if I sound like a jackass, but its becomening impossible for even me to follow. 
If you have your own thread, post in there.


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## GLdubber (Jun 13, 2006)

S0 how's things coming along on 71DubBugBug, were you able to get the brakes apart and trailing arms removed?


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## raul (Nov 6, 2006)

Nice project!















keep going e good luck!


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (GLdubber)*

To answer your question, my project is going well. 
Just not as fast as I had hoped. 
I am taking a little break this week because of finals, but come Thursday 11:15, when my finals are over, its a 3 day weekend of &1 Super Beetle.
I am going to get some solvent and clean the engine, look bellow. 
I am excited








I took the trailing arms off like a week ago, and updated my first post. 
But I guess that’s hard to follow, so I am going to make a new post each time.
The trailing arms, from page one: 








I am going to worry about the brakes afterwards. 
Probably not a good idea, but too late.








I also started sanding the body. 
Here is how i am doing this:
First of all, there are 4ish layers of paint.
1. The flat black and grey that you see on page one.
2. The green which seems to have been the original color
3. A matte yellow, maybe a primer or a base coat, don’t know.
4. And rite above the metal there is this light grey, probably the actual primer.
And then every once in a while there is this brown bondo, that is really thick in some places rite after the top layer. 
Pics: 
















I am going to wait to get to the actual metal for a little while longer until i get the engine built, and my garage is ready for paint.
Also, I took the engine apart, well almost:
















And I drained the tranny oil:








I had this crazy idea two nights ago.















Since my front needs some added weight, and since I am getting Porsche rims, and since I need a spare tire, I will get 4 of the ultra thin space saving spares that Porsche has, and stack them in my spare tire area and my "trunk". Also, if I want to go slammed, just bolt them on, and since they r only 15 and 16 inches, the car will automatically look slammed.















Tell me what you think of my idea. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif ? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif ?
And how thin did Porsche make the spare tires????
Anyone know where to get them cheap????
I also need your help on the tranny. 
What should I do with my tranny???? 
Finally, about the engine. What size socket do I need to take the fly wheel off? Because its HUGE!!!
As always suggestions are greatly appreciated!








And THANKS to everyone who has been helping me out!
The Vortex is amazing!


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## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

for flywheel and rear axle nuts, I recommend this:
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDe...D7036


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## GLdubber (Jun 13, 2006)

I believe you'll find that anything with PORSCHE on it will not be cheap, I've seen those space saver spares on the samba for as much as a Fuch wheel.


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*

Is there any other tool that would remove the fly wheel nut.
So you are saying that the brake nut and the flywheel nut are the same size.
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDe...D7040
Will one of these do the trick as well?
I got it!!!!!!!!!
I am going to ask the Autos teacher at our school.








hmmm. I gotta hurry up and figure out what i am going to do with the engine, and order parts before its too late.










_Modified by 71DubBugBug at 7:58 PM 1-17-2007_


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## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*


_Quote, originally posted by *71DubBugBug* »_Is there any other tool that would remove the fly wheel nut.
So you are saying that the brake nut and the flywheel nut are the same size.
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDe...D7040
Will one of these do the trick as well?
I got it!!!!!!!!!
I am going to ask the Autos teacher at our school.











_Quote, originally posted by *71sbeetle* »_
oh and I dont like the other tool, it's not really good for your axles, or crank if you use it to remove your flywheel

yes same size but I've heard a few people damaging their cranks or axle by using the tool that you hammer on .... I personally never used it and never will http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*

71SBeetle,
Thanks for your help with all of the engine stuff!!!
I am going to finally order everything for the engine tomorrow.
I am very excited!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
you should post on http://www.superbeetlesonly.com too


----------



## oasis (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (ZeroTO60inWhenever)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ZeroTO60inWhenever* »_I know its a 1600 CC witch is 65 hp right ?... but even you could drive it and say its only puttin out 42 hp... so wheres the best place to get some higher CC turnkey motors ?

According to the 1971 owner's manual, the engine puts out 60 hp. But that is not measured at the wheels. Before the transplant of my Type IV engine, I had my totally stock engine dyno'd at 42.5 hp -- and it was perfectly fine. (It got me to Florida for the Dyno Day and BugJam, and back to Maryland okay.)
I have no experience with any engine builder but I was told by more than one person to check into Chico Performance if you are locked in on getting a Type I engine.


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (oasis)*


_Quote, originally posted by *oasis* »_
I have no experience with any engine builder but I was told by more than one person to check into Chico Performance if you are locked in on getting a Type I engine.

I triple that ! Anibal Chico is the best ! http://www.steelbuggin.com or call him at 626 390 5107 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*

I can't wait!!!






















I finally sent my money to Anibal Chico from Chico Performance Racing
The list:
1.CB Performance stroker crank nitrided and micro polish 78.4 - 82 or 84mm
2.CB Performance I-Beam 5.4 Super unitech rods. (add H-Beam's 125.00, yes) 
3. You choice of cam Engle and stock gear and bolts ( Add CB straight cuts 85.00, yes)
4. German gasket set with rear main.
5. Custom Norris lifter's treated (the best)
6. New chromoly Scat gland nut.
7. New 26mm oil pump modified with Empi steel pump cover with fitting's.
8.New Piston and liner set with Grant ring's. (90.5-92-94mm), Mahale
9. Heads, for 150+ HP 
10. New machined case
That makes a 2017cc engine with like 150-170hp, I think! 






















Anibal Chico is a great dude for all your engine builds, he helped us out SOOO much!








And why do I need all of this?














I am still trying to answer that question.
Other progress on the car, not much at all. have been busy with senior year, and its FREEZING outside, so that doesn't help at all.








Oh well








Now I have something to look forward to!


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

Chico is the best







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Dj_Rasta_vw (Oct 4, 2006)

Hey nice bug here is ur super bug brother my 71 bug 

Oh and in case ur thinking why vw O fire well ill later post a pic of the exhaust

















_Modified by Dj_Rasta_vw at 10:15 PM 1-30-2007_


----------



## The_Black_Pearl (Jan 31, 2007)

*Re: (1302Frank)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1302Frank* »_









I think that is a amazing looking bug.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

WOW
Is it cold or what?
I can't wait till the engine comes in, so I can work on somehting on my car.
I am putting the engine together in the basement, so the cold will no longer bother me!


----------



## eviljettavr6 (Feb 25, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

nice bug http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

engine should be shipped on friday


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

I need your help!
Before we can order the correct rocker arms and push rods, we need to determine the compression ration that we want.
The two choices:
9:1 vs. 10:1
Which one is better?
According to chico, a 10:1 will give us around 180hp, but will require 93 octane fuel and the engine will need to be better taken care of. 
AKA baby the car.
So what are the pros and cons of both?
Thanks, 
G


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

I suggest this for all large nuts or bolts, its really handy.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...e=Yes


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

i have something like that!


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

Today is a VERY good day!
After more than a month of anticipation, she has arrived.
I stayed home sick today, and at 9:15, i was awakened by the door bell ringing.
Who could it be?








It was the mail man. 








My 150 pounds of joy!
































































Crank is under the platic wrap!
This is going to be TONS of fun!
1 problem.
He forgot the torque specs.








I am going to have to give Chico a hard time for this, JK
Wish me Luck! 








I hope this does the job!


_Modified by 71DubBugBug at 1:25 PM 3-6-2007_


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

Looks like santa came really early. I wish i had a budget to get stuff like that. How much for the engine stand? If the price is high I might just build my own instead of buying one. What cam and and pistons did you buy?
Anyways, looks like your going to have alot to do for a while, good luck.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

Thanks man, 
We are having issues with stuff fitting in the new engine, but its tons of fun!
Progress pics will be posted in an hour or two.
About the engine stand, it ws 49.99
http://www.costco.com/Browse/P...=&s=1
Costco has another one for 115, but thats where I got mine.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

OK, pictures of progress so far:
My work space, in my basement,








Cam attached to gear,








Crank and the connecting rods,








Good work Greesha!!! JK
Now for the troubles. Please HELP! 
Problem number UNO:
These, 








Don't want to go into these, 








Problem number DOS:








ITS NOT THREADED!
I don't know if its a problem yet, but does this look okay? 








Thanks for all your help!


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

You got a pretty sweet deal, maybe i should get one and take my engine apart. For the rest... lol I dunno ive never taken a vw engine apart.


_Modified by Happy_person36 at 10:01 PM 3-7-2007_


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

http://www.bugmevideo.com


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

Wow, that was a sweet demo. I might end up getting all the volumes some day.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

We have figured out the problem!
We originally ordered 92mm bore.
He sent us a 92mm case,
but accidentally sent us everything for a 94mm bore.
So here is what he is going to do.
He will exchange our 92mm case for a 94mm case, FOR FREE!
He will also pay shipping, and will include some free hardware for final assembly of the long block!
This is GREAT!!!
Thanks Anibal


----------



## GLdubber (Jun 13, 2006)

Sweet upgrade Anibal, props to the company for thier willingness to keep the customer happy.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (buggyman)*

very
i am kindof scared as to how the body and everythign is going ot react to tripple the stock horsepower.


----------



## GLdubber (Jun 13, 2006)

Take a look at http://www.germanlook.com/forums and do a search for "racelook". There's a guy in Sweden (I think) that is building up a killer car and doing alot of reinforcement on the suspension.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

That is a awesome deal *cough* gimme the other case *cough* That thing is gonna haul ass


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

CORRECTION:
He sent us the correct heads and case. 
His only mistake was that he sent us 93.93mm cylinders and pistons, So i sent those back to him several days ago. 
And yes, Its gonna HAUL ASS!
Happy_person36, which case r you talking about? My old one? How much you offering?


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

just kidding around. So he sent the wrong one again?


_Modified by Happy_person36 at 7:40 PM 3-15-2007_


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

come on.... im anxious to see how this turns out


----------



## stagger_lee (Jun 13, 2006)

*Re: (buggyman)*

What is this on the case? Not cracks I hope? Oil stains? Its a bit deceiving in the photo.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

looks like small cuts in the case to me, i hope its nothing serious, anyways didnt he get a new case? So he wont have to worry about it, i recommend telling the seller about it so he doesnt go and sell a hazardous case to someone


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

Nope, its just on the surface.
I talked to someone who knows a lot abotu metal, and when they cast anything, it usually looks that way, unless they go and clean it. 
Quick question.
I have to order new floor pans, the entire right and left side.
Where is a good place to order them?


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

http://www.oeveedub.com


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

so i cut o tu the floor pans
and the correct engine parts should ship soon
i am going to go on vacation for 9 days, so serious progress should start when i get back


----------



## GLdubber (Jun 13, 2006)

Here's to a good vacation then. See ya when you get back!


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

i got back this morning
and had a package waiting for me
details to come


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

yay! take pics of new parts


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

I am a retard and forgot to take a picture of the actual new parts.
But, he just sent us the correct size pistons and cylinders, a woodruff key, and something else. I don't remember what it is. 
So today we practically test fit all the parts of the engine. 
The only part we didn't put in were the pistons, we still have to figure out how ot put them one. We have a ring compressor, but can't figure out how to do it with the connecitng rods sticking out of the case. 
Pics: 
























There is still a little problem. 
First, we don't know what this part does. 








And then, this won't fit where it is supposed to. 








Gonna have to call the engine guy on that one. 
When we figure out those minor problems, we are going to put it all back together, because its all tacken apart again, and torque everything.


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

that gear is the distributor drive gear, it goes on the crank.
the cam bearing is a tight fit, but they are different a little, make sure you put them in the right place.
As for the pistons, you put them on the connecting rod, arrow pointing toward the front of the engine (towards the flywheel side), put the teflon button/circlip on one side to block the wrist pin, slide the wrist pin in and put the other side's clip. use the ring compressor, compress the rings (make sure they are in the right locations/angles) and then slide the cylinder over them, and let the compressor slide back as you slide the cylinder over, then move on to the next one .....


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*

So that gold thing is supposed to go onto here: 








Did we put the gear in the correct place?


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

Engine is looking good, try this website, it should help. http://www.vw-resource.com/vw-....html


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

nvm, that link isnt much help lol


----------



## buggedowt (Mar 27, 2007)

Was this motor already put together by chico and dismantled to ship??? You are venturing in unchartered territories...lots of stuff you need to know ....


_Modified by buggedowt at 10:49 PM 3-31-2007_


----------



## buggedowt (Mar 27, 2007)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

Not to rain on your parade.. but did you ever build a vw motor before??? If you don't know what the dist. drive gear is,man.. put it all in a box and take it to someone who can put it together for you the *right *way,and not just slap it together. I guarantee ,that if you haven't gotten the right clearances and gaps,especially with this monster you are building,it won't last two minutes..if even turn over at all. Please find someone who knows what they are doing.. Is it balanced?? is it full flowed??? It'll be fast alright.... fast to blow up!! What is your deckk height?? What compression ratio are you planning to run?? what size cam and carburation do you have?? What rato are the rockers you are running??? do you know how to set the end play?? how about the cam end play?? Please take it to someone ...Or have someone come to you. Learn off of them.


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (buggedowt)*

tried to tell him that already .... seems like they want to make the big $$$ mistake ....


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (buggyman)*

I agree you guys completely. 
No, Chico had obviously not pre assembled the engine, or he would have noticed that he had sent us the wrong pistons and cylinders. 
As we speak I am ordering the Bug Me Videos video on rebuilding an engine. I am also going to stop by a bookstore and purchase a book on rebuilding VW aircooled engines 
Before beginning the build, we talked to a friend who said he was experienced with building engines, which he is, just not VW engines. 
As we started trying to put things together initially, I became a little nervous that we are doing something wrong, it doesn't help when parents are pressuring us to get this thing finished. 
I am very thankful that you guys are giving me so much support, and I hope that you don't think that I am ignoring you. 
As of now, progress has officially halted, on the engine that is.


----------



## OldSchoolRyan (Aug 22, 2004)

*Re: (buggyman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *buggyman* »_I wholeheartedly agree with buggedowt ,trying to build something like this is exciting,but depending on online advice _alone_ just doesn't crack it,not everyone who knows very specific tolerance info is online,on demand,at any given time,if ever.
I've contributed to this post in the past and have tried to be a cheerleader under the assumption that the _absolute_ basics were known and understood at your end.
This will turn into a very expensive disaster unless you at least crunch the books *very hard* for a while,or otherwise obtain experience on a few stockers before proceeding any further.
Installing those gears properly,even on a 25hp engine,involves a combination of chilling the crank to shrink it and heating the gears to expand them so they can be placed into a _very_ specific location on the crank in order to line up properly with their counterparts in any given case(which all have their own tolerance variations) to prevent premature wear to all of the components involved,or worse,have it grenade upon initial startup,considering that tolerances vary enough to a point that if all are on the + side the motor crunches itself to death,all on the - side slaps itself to death,internally.
I went a good 5 years through jr. and high school of just watching others who were much more experienced before attempting my first new engine build,which was just a 1650,and I still managed to screw up a few details which ended up costing me dearly,little subtle things that make a world of difference in how the engine runs and how long it lives.









Heating and chilling cranks???







what kind of highschool did you go to where they heated and chilled cranks and i don't think I've ever purchased an unbalanced crank. Anyway... i do believe he discussed what rocker compression ratio he was going to order earlier in the thread... thread bashers







If you could tell him what books he should "crunch" for his specific build that would be great. I'm sure he'd appreciate that... hell, I'd read it.
Hey man, I think your doing a fine job on the motor. I wouldn't recommend going out and buying a couple "stockers" and rebuilding them just because you need experience. Stick to the books, Torque to specs. Set everything to top dead center on timing. And then advance the $hit out of it till it starts and idles. 
An air-cooled knowledgable friend would help out a lot i agree. 
Mistakes are made regardless of what size motor is being built. 
Don't let these guys scare you into "taking a halt" on your build. 
** keep up the good work and find a local air-cooled friend for support, not Chico or thread-bashers **


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (OldSchoolRyan)*

I usually just heat the gears before I put them on the crank, makes it easy to slide on


----------



## buggedowt (Mar 27, 2007)

*Re: (OldSchoolRyan)*

*@oldschoolryan*
No one was *threadbashing* nor scare him from his build. Just giving some advice from *EXPERIENCE*. It is apparent that you know very little about building an _aircooled _motor because you would know that once it gets started ,that you don't let it idle...at all. You take it to 3500 rpms for the first 20 minutes of its newborn life and pray it doesn't develope a low to high pitch squeal and slow down to a screeching halt in the process. He did the best thing by setting it to the side for now because there is a ton of cash sitting in boxes and hearing 3000+ dollars worth of parts melt internally or exit out of the case isn't fun. I don't know about you, but every ,rod ,piston etc I build up with gets weighed and balanced.. That is one of the secrets of building a VW motor that will last more then a few years daily driven. There are no books out there that are going to tell you all the ins and outs of H/P VW motors.. They will tell you _about_ them, but not step by step on how to build a specific size. You think these brand new cases come ready to put together without any internal grinding of flash and out of tolerance oil relief valve decks?? Think again. Let a small slither of flash wedge inside of the highly needed oil galleys while you are running you motor down the highway...Did he get any spacers for his jugs?? If the motor wasn't preassembled once,there is a good chance it won't fit together right. 
Yes.. heating the dist. drive gear is best for removal/installing it. Unless ,he being a first timer, wants to destroy that new crank bearing surface forcing it off. 
Seems like he did the *right* thing and took our advice..,I just hope he doesn't take yours and slaps it together, _advance the $hit __out of it till it starts and idles_......more like ...till it seizes or gets a hole knocked into the pistons or it just gets so hot it literally melts itself inside out. 
Don't forget, he will need to cut his own pushrods to length... one chance only.. you suggest just taking them out of the package and installing them as they come??? or ,better yet..use the stock aluminum pushrods for a stroker?? So..in ending.. If anyone here is *"THREADBASHING"* it is *YOU.*

_Modified by buggedowt at 6:35 PM 4-4-2007_


_Modified by buggedowt at 6:39 PM 4-4-2007_


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

agreed


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (buggedowt)*

OK
ENOUGH fighting about absolutely nothing!
Fighting like little girls isn't gonna get nobody anywhere.
No one here is a thread basher. 
Just some cool pics I found on the Mk1 forums: 
























And I thank all of you that look out for me and what I am doing with my project.
THANKS!


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

Ok since we want to get rollign wiht all the other parts of the project, we need floor pans. 
I found these: 
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDe...1%2DN
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDe...2%2DN
They say that they should fit my beetle. 
Since we cut out the entire floor pan, including the outer part, where the body bolts on, do these inlcude that part? 
Or do we need to purchase 
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDe...2D712.
I looked at the biagram that thye have on their website and am still confused.


----------



## buggedowt (Mar 27, 2007)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*


----------



## buggedowt (Mar 27, 2007)

*Re: (buggedowt)*

post a pic . of what you have removed so far. some are best done with the body on and bolted for better alignment. you will have to do some pounding to form and tacking in lace. Sealing is a must !! It is a big job,but not so bad. Take it on.. but take your time before final welding in place so you can see where it all comes together .


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (buggedowt)*

This is what the stuff we cut off looks like. 
















Putting it on the body to weld is goign to be very tricky, because we are taking it somewhere to have it welded.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

Sweet, so what are your plans for the engine? Someone gonna help or you giving it to a mechanic?


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

I don't know what we are doing with the engine yet. 
Probably either gona have someone help us, or do it at school. 
I just still can't figure out what floorpans to get.


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

you need both pan halves, the first 2 links you posted.
the 3rd link looks like you still have it, you didnt cut it out, it's the part at the back, I can see the right side one in the picture.
I try to stay away from the brazil made ones usually though, I look for the ones made in Denmark, thicker gauge, but they are usually in 2 piece (front and rear) and the seats track are not on there so you need to reuse your current ones ....


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

sorry for no updates
ordering parts


----------



## Kiddo (Jan 19, 2005)

*Re: (buggyman)*

WOW, this thing is still around!!!
After your done this should be stickied or kept in the facts. Should end up with a lot of great info here!
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## papichulo7 (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: 1971 VW Super Beetle Build-Up Thread (71DubBugBug)*

Wow, great thread and fabulous pics ... I may be picking up a '68 tomorrow; can't wait.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Kiddo)*

I don;t know about the facts, but I am going ot print myself a copy of it. 
Thanks for the support.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

Tal Strip worked wonders
pics tomorrow


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

I want pics now..... havent really had a update lately


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

You wanted pictures???
OK!
These are the floor pans








This is my mini workbench








I use it for 








And the results in 








I should have the chassis stripped by the end of Friday, and will try to bring it in to school over the weekend to have the floor pans welded on. 
Coming very soon: 
18/7.5 and 18/10 rims
VMaXX strut kit
Front disk brake kit, drilled, zincked, slotted
Rear disk brake kit, drilled, zincked, slotted
Top line full front rebuild kit. 
Sorry, but progress is VERY slow. 
Have a not of stuff going on at school, and will try to make more time this week.
Finally figured out the engine problem, all I have to do, accoriding to Chico is grind that little notch off. 
BTW, that engine video is GR8!


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

sweet! Nice pans. I bet you cant wait till summer, then progress will probably speed up. Why do you use chemicals for the paint? why not just sand it down? Anyways, its looking great and good luck.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

Sanding takes too much time. And is more of a mess than chemicals.
Progress will start to speed up the week after May 20th, but i am still going to be working one it. 
That's when APs are over. 
By summer its going to be ready for assembly. 
Here are my plans for the interior, but I am not sure yet. 
Since i want to paint the car a camponela white, i was thinking of doing a blue interior and matching blue rims, if I can get to paint them. 
Where I am confused is what to do about the interior. 
I want to make it a fun track car, so I am going to need racing sports seats in fornt, and harnesses, which need a roll cage to be properly installed, I hear. 
What kind of a roll cage should I go with, if I want one, and will rear seats fit with a roll cage? 
Also, any recommendations of seat companies that are good for my purposes other than sparco recaro and corbeau? 
Thanks again for all your support.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

Good good..
Turn it into a buggy.















A road legal buggy wouldn't hurt


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

http://mysite.verizon.net/res0tyr8/id2.html
Has anybody hear of this company?
Their prices are pretty good I think, and they have a 12 month guarantee, and the make them in 4-6 weeks. 
I think I am going with the Pro Comp Type 1 Transmission, and adding a freeway flyer gear for an extra $150.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

You need a buggy.


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/...gears


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

Hows progress?


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

SLOW!!!






















I finally got the tracking number for my wheels that I ordered.
It only took the person 2 weeks to get it to me.
I just ordered 2 inch, 50 mm, spacers for the rear wheels. 
We were going to weld the floor pans this weekend, but everything got screwed up, so we are pushing it back to this coming Saturday. 
The body is coming close to being clean, but my angle grinder decided to fry itself, so I can't use the wire wheel.








I in the next few days I will order the Kamei front spoiler, is there any other place to get one of these other than http://aircooled.net/new-bin/v...artid ? 
Also, does anybody know of where I can get interesting guages for the car? Such as a semi stock speedo? And other stuff like that. 
I would love to post pictures of the progress, but my photo bucket doesn't work, whenever I post a picture, it comes out as a tiny white box with a red x in the middle.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

http://www.imageshack.us


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

Some basic gauges, http://www2.cip1.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1760


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

I just got a huge shippment from Top Line.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

sweet, hows the engine?


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

We are waiting for rocker arms and push rods. 
As soon as these come in, we assemble everything. 
Still waiting on the wheels and the front end rebuild kit. 
Just had a conversation with the welder teacher, everything gets welded the 19th.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

Sweet, i cant wait to see the final product. Man look how cheap this sandblaster is! Something i will definetely be considering once i get some money : http://www.mytoolstore.com/cyclone/tf5000.html


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

I still think you should turn it into a buggy


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

Yes, thats exacty what I am going with it. 
After almsot six grand of parts, and still counting, I am going to trun it into a dube buggy.
Oh, and 18/ 7.5 and 10 inch Porsche rims will look very good on a dune buggy, no?


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

DO IT, lol yea i understand. Its still gonna be awesome. Any pics of anything?


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

YES, I finally have some pictures of the slow progress. 
The chassis








The chassis number 








Question, How do I get these out? 
I have tried pulling them, but they don't seem to want to move. 
















Also, i don't have a picture, but there is this metal rod, that connects the gear shifter to the tranny, is it possible to take that out? or does it have to be left in for paint and everything? 
Front right 
















That was all covered with 1/2 inches of bondo.
I have no idea how he got it to be this bumpy. 
The "trunk"








There is bondo in here as well, and some forms of cheep ways of covering holes.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

I forgot these. 
2 inch spacers for the rear wheels.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

Lookin good! Those are nice brakes







About the clutch cable... im not sure if this is true but ive seen a couple cases of which greese turns into concrete after a period of time, so i dont know if you should greese it along with WD40. Anyone have any feedback on this one? My friends dirtbike brake lever was greesed and a couple months later it turned into concrete and was impossible to move! You getting the frame blasted, or are you just gonna sand it by hand? Good luck with those dents







Cant wait till summer then progress should speed up and i can be fed some more pictures


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

No, i am not getting the frame sand blasted, but a wire wheels seems top be working very very well, until it decided to die, while I was taking the 1/2 inches of bondo off. 
Now I have to get a new one.








The only problem, that little metal broze looking tube, that you guys say is the clutch cable is very bent rite now, is there a way to replace it? 
I don't have to wait till the summer for progress to pick up, once APs are over, next thursday, and after I get back form Wisconsin, next weeknd, prgress will pick up. 
We are trying once more to get the car into our metals shop next weekend to weld all of the things in.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

If it is bent it must be replaced, dont want your clutch sticking on you while your driving. Shoot some WD40 down the clutch cable tubing to free it up a little bit, then it should just pull right out from the pedal assembly. Just buy this and you should be good to go!







http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDe...5%2DA


_Modified by Happy_person36 at 12:09 PM 5-12-2007_


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDe...D293D boots


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (buggyman)*

*WE HAVE A PROBLEM*
Um, the frame head seems to be bent. 
















This one has a ruler on it, so you can see better. 








I have been informed that it is very hard to do this if the body has also been bent. is there another way to fix this? other than welding a new one on.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

Here are some crappy shots of the underside of the car. 








































Does anything there look bent?


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

Front right quarter panel 
























Front left quarter panel 
















Looks like they need to be replaced. 
Here is what I found: 
http://www2.cip1.com/SearchRes...879-9
Any other places for thse, aka cheaper ones?


----------



## 57Drag (Oct 23, 2003)

Check thesamba.com,you might find a donner car for less than the price of panels.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

Wow... that sucks. Im not too sure how to fix bends other than a hammer, maybe you should ask a collision repair shop. Man thats a nasty problem..


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (buggyman)*

I don't know how a firberglass fornt clip works,
Will if fit wide wheels in front? 
Also, is it stock looking? or like a silly typeof dune buggy look? 
getting a donor car is out of the picture for me. 
No room in garage, plus parets owudl probably make me get rid of what I got.


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

No fiberglass front cipls for Super Beetles (that I know of) and remember, the strut attaches to that 1/4 panel so fiberglass is definitely out of the question there.
I told him about getting a donor car which would be cheaper than fixing that one but apparently he can't.
I think it's *BAJA TIME* !!!!


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

I strongly dislike bajas. 
As I said, a donor car is not the best idea for me now, because my parents will probalby make me get rid of what I already have. 
As 71sbeetle said, even if a fornt clip exhisted, it would not solve the quarter panel issue, 
Also, even if I do baja, which I don't want to do, I still have to repair the quarter panels. 
the way I understand it, stiwching styles and looks still leaves me with the same problem of having to change the quarter panels.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (buggyman)*

You mean http://www.marksbugbarn.com/sh...tg=15 , this part? 
Is it anything similar to http://www.oeveedub.com/mm5/me...ehead ?
If not, please explain because I am a little bit confused.


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

no, it's this part
http://www.oeveedub.com/mm5/me...ehead


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*

MORE GOODIES
From my engine building friend: 
































From Top Line Parts: 
































Engine should be coming together tomorrow.
Also, some more good news:
MY WHEELS CAME. pics tomorrow.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

YAY! sweet parts, why new rockers? Those push rods look used? So whats up with the frame? Man this bug is gonna be sweeeeet. Check out my thread







http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3228232


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

New rockers because everythign else is new. 
I think the pushrods look used because they are.








With the body, talking to another person at school, and if that does not work out, I am going to have to find a prefessional shop to do it.








Once I find soemone to do it, I will order those parts.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

Ah i see, mine as well get all new parts







I guess the pushrods dont really wear lol. Man that sucks for the body, its gonna cost you..


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (buggyman)*

just a tip: get new pushrods ! And make sure you do rocker geometry http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*

oh and these valve covers WILL leak


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

oooh, nice wheels. On the last pic it looks like the paint is scratched at the bottom


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

Yes, there are some sratches on one of the back wheels. 
But thats not as important as getting the body fixed. 
Welders in my area charge around 60 bucks an hour, and there is a ton of welding to be done, and then parts are almost 1200, so I am looking into the idea of swaping bodies. 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem 
This is what I have found so far, and it is close enough to be albe to trailer back home. 
I have offered the person to pick it up. 
My question is, how much it it worth? 
Also, If I do sell my body and chassis, how much should I be asking for them? 
Also, whats the difference between the 71 and 72 super?
Are they the same? and are their parts interchangable? 


_Modified by 71DubBugBug at 4:58 PM 5-22-2007_


----------



## eviljettavr6 (Feb 25, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

i love the wheels http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
btw if you have a stock one off the bug with a good tire shoot me im i need a spare tire im in northbrook too


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (eviljettavr6)*

stop by and see








If 72 supers and 71 supers are the same, 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem
could be a great deal. 
They want 200 for it. 
Is it a good deal?



_Modified by 71DubBugBug at 8:19 PM 5-22-2007_


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (buggyman)*

If you take a close look, there are some holes.
One can be seen in the interior pic, in the front right corner.
Owner says that they were all fiberglassed but he removed it.
Does that look like I can fiberglass again?


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (buggyman)*

i already have new floor pans for the car anyway.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

Hows the engine


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

Question
We just got the dowel pins in, but in the same bag there were washers that were not mentioned in the Bug Me Videos.
Dowel Pins 








The washers in question: 








Where do these go?
Also, I am going to be dipping all the parts into miniral sprits in the next few days. And then, I will watch the video once more, and finally put the engine together.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

No idea, are they engine parts?


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

yes


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

Hmm i cant think of anything that looks anything like that on my engine.. lol im new to aircooled too


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

how big are they ? post a pic of one next to a coin so we can tell the size


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*

Horrible pic, but its being compared to quarter.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

ive never seen them before


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

I think they are dowel pins for the flywheel
http://www.cip1.ca/ProductDeta...2D277


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

yeah that we knew, it's the spacers we're trying to figure out


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

o, lol


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (buggyman)*

only thing I can think of is clutch bolt washers, but even then they would not be the right ones I think (too thick) and not enough of them to be the head stud washers


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

how big of a socket do I need for the flywheel nut?


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

36mm, torque that bitch down good though and I hope you got a good chromoly nut, also dont forget to put grease in there


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

I hate gland nuts, DONT OVER TORQUE IT lol im dealing with one and i have to take the torch to it.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

no, the dowel pins are for the main bearings, not the flywheel.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

Give me pictures. lol


----------



## buggedowt (Mar 27, 2007)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

engine case washers.


----------



## buggedowt (Mar 27, 2007)

*Re: (buggedowt)*

or head bolt washers. your clutch washers are wavy type. also the ones for the rockers are wavy.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

OK, so i found a place to rent me both a plasma cutter, and a good welder to weld the new fraeme head, yet to be ordered, and the floor pans. 
So after talking to several people, this is what I have decided to do. The frame head needs to be replaced, but i think i can most likely leave the front quarter panels the way they are. The reasoning is that all the important drive stuff, such as where the suspension attaches is before there is any damage to the metal, and since the steering only attaches to the steering column, which also attaches ot the body before the damage is done, it should all work. Also, all the fenders will bolt on correctly because the ones i took odd seemed to all fit snugly together as well. 
I think thats the only option for me. 



_Modified by 71DubBugBug at 5:35 PM 6-12-2007_


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

I also figured out the size of the gland nut, its a scat one that is 1 1/2 inches.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

any suggestions? anybody? 
also, from oeveedubs, do i need to purchase the ramehead repair piece? of can i jsut purchase the complete framehead and us the piece that is alreay welded to my car?


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

Maybe you could do the same as DubsMcGee's frame :


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

i can't because i don't have a beam like that in front. 
mine is a super


----------



## Bugs (Aug 16, 2001)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

another thread to watch.. nice!


----------



## ShadowWabbit (Aug 16, 2006)

looks like its gunna be a bad @ss bug http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (ShadowWabbit)*

I have a favor to ask those who know about aircooleds. 
I need some front end measuremnts.
Kinda like this: (sorry its for an mk1, but doe the job of explaining what I need) 








This is so that I can see if I can leave the damage up fornt of the actual body, not frame, alone and not have to do anything about it.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (ShadowWabbit)*

OK, the Bug is currently in the body shop. 
They are reparing the frame, and welding the floor pans. 
We got the frame and floor pans to fit into my grandfathers coversion van, and put the body into a firends truck. 
Some pictures: 

















PAGE 7 OWNED by me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

sweet, yay progress


----------



## oopseyesharted (Mar 2, 2005)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

Awesome man.
Its good to see some progress. Sorry to hear about the frame damage. But at least it all set now.
Cant wait to see more.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (oopseyesharted)*

OK, i need some serious help. 
First, i cleaned one of my cylinders with engine solvent, and then washed it off with watter, and dried it. I come back in the evening, and the outside is like covered in surface rust. 
Also, I have like 1/2 inches of end play between my flywheel and my main bearring. 
How do I controll the rust?






















I will post pictures tomorrow.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (buggyman)*

OK
I need to go get wd40 then. 
Also, I kinda need to wash the cylinders down a bit, becasue the engine solvent is VERY string, like it eats through latex gloves and stuff. 
Also, do I do the same wash meathod for the pistons? With the wd40 and all? 
Also, in the video, they have not yet installed the fornt pullery, they put it on in the very end. 


_Modified by 71DubBugBug at 9:50 AM 6-26-2007_


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

no need for the front pulley, but did you set the end play correctly ?


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*

no, thats what I am trying to do with the spacers, but its not working because that gap is way too big.


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*


_Quote, originally posted by *71DubBugBug* »_no, thats what I am trying to do with the spacers, but its not working because that gap is way too big. 

did you torque the flywheel all the way down ?


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*

No, I have not yey torqued it down all the way. 
This is what the rust looked like. 








This is the gap I am talking about. 
















The solvent I use. 








My mini assembly line. 








AND, Vwala. 










_Modified by 71DubBugBug at 8:22 PM 6-26-2007_


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*


_Quote, originally posted by *71DubBugBug* »_No, I have not yey torqued it down all the way.

then there's at least part of your problem


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

Its because there are no shims, and remember that it fits into the case, the case is thick around that area
EDIT
and the flywheel seal


_Modified by Happy_person36 at 8:53 AM 6-27-2007_


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

flywheel seal? woops forgot about that one. 
also, I was doen with the crank and cams when I noticed that I have no oil slinger. 
i am very angry 
also, chassis should be back from the welder on saturday, gonna go to the place and check it out. will bring my camera, i think. 
ONE MORE QUESTION.
Its about how much to torque the cam gear onto the cam. 
The actual cam came with a papaer that says 18 or 19. 
The cam gear says 20. 
For now I torqued them to 20. Is that what I shoudl torque them to? 


_Modified by 71DubBugBug at 12:17 PM 6-29-2007_


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

20 is fine, 1-3 extra ft/lbs of torque wont hurt it


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

I also noticed that I was missing a distrbutor drive. 
http://aircooled.net/new-bin/v...88184 
One of these. Any better place to get these? 
Also, what are some reccomendations for the electrical system for the engine. Like distributor, spark plugs, ignition coil, CDIs, and wires. Taking into consideration that this is a performance engine, I think. 
http://aircooled.net/new-bin/v...88184 do I need these? 
Also, a place to get all the tin that I will be needing for the engine, including a fan and fan shroud, because mine doesn't looks so good anymore.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

I told you earlier that I vsited the body shop that was welding things for me. 
































They said that they de-bent the framehead. 
Look good to you? 
























Should have her back by monday. 
More questions. 
Carbs, I know that I want dual carbs. What are the good brands? Other than Weber? 
I have also read that not all fit under the hood. Is that true? 
Also, about xhaust systems. I want loud, but also performance.
I seem to be liking the 2 inch full merged exhaust. 
http://www.cbperformance.com/c...D=384
I don't want a sitnger. 
What kind of mufflers would I opt to put onto that system?


----------



## oopseyesharted (Mar 2, 2005)

looking good man


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re:  (buggyman)*

wow is that confusing


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

bump


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

oh, its back from thew body shop that I had do the welding. 
question, can I put the distributor dirve pinion thingy in after the case is closed? or should i just wait for it to come ine?


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

definitely, the shaft just slides down into the case and has a o-ring + dist clamp. The design makes it easy to swap broken distributors.


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*


_Quote, originally posted by *71DubBugBug* »_
question, can I put the distributor dirve pinion thingy in after the case is closed? or should i just wait for it to come ine? 

not only you can, but you have to


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*

also, does the flywheel seal go with that black thign sticking outward, or inward towards the engine?


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

There is a bore on one side with a metal elastic sort of thing. Im almost positive that faces outwards.


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

look at the pic here:
http://www.aircooled.net/new-b...84127
this is the visible part once installed, dont hammer that thing in, get a seal installer ....... unless you feel like pulling the engine back out in 20 miles


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*

"dont hammer that thing in, get a seal installer ....... unless you feel like pulling the engine back out in 20 miles"
I dont think its a bad idea to hammer it in, DubsMcGee used a mallot and wood, and his hasnt leaked.


----------



## air skooled (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*


_Quote, originally posted by *71DubBugBug* »_oh, can I put the distributor dirve pinion thingy in 

Don't forget the 2 thrust washers that go in the case first, just under the dist drive. There is also a spring that goes into the drive just under the dist. 
[QUOTE does the flywheel seal go with that black thign sticking outward, or inward towards the engine?]
The open side of the rear seal faces inward. The spring is there to retain the shape of the seal. Make sure you put sealer on the outer edge of the seal before installing it and put a small amount of engine oil on the inside edge that contacts the crank. You can use a hammer to put it in, just make sure that it is in straight (flush with the case). I've put hundreds of them in with a hammer and never had a leak.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

i took the shifter linkage out today, and somehow its bent


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

bent? Must of been street raced


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

How goes the project?


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

Sorry for not posting in so much time. 
I am currently on a 477 mile bike ride in Iowa, called Ragbai, and I will be back home Saturday or Sunday. 
I sent the money in to get my widened fenders for the rear, three inches wider, but I have not yet been able to see if he has recieved the money, or if they have been shipped yet. 
71sbeetle, 
Please send me how much shipping was for the front spoiler, because all of my messages have been deleted and I dont know if you sent me anything or not.


----------



## TrueValue (Dec 23, 2000)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

RAGBRAI?...you're twice the man....Bringing the '71 back to life, and participating in the RIDE! Okay, cycling is one of the few allowable diversions from your VW quest...Carry On.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

thanks
i did it last year too. 
anyway, wide rear fenders came in yeserday. i am going to take pics in a few days.
currently shopping around for a body shop that will paint for cheep. i might just do primer for now, and have the ghetto look for a year.


----------



## oopseyesharted (Mar 2, 2005)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

Cant wait to see the pics man.
Where did you get wide fenders from?


----------



## GLdubber (Jun 13, 2006)

_Quote, originally posted by *oopseyesharted* »_Cant wait to see the pics man.
Where did you get wide fenders from?

Best place and plus it's in Florida...
http://www.creativecarcraft.com


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

i got my rear wide fenders used off of someone.
i think i am going to go with mark v fiberglass for the front ones. 
rite now i am in the middle of trying to get a body shop to take a look at my car so that they can paint it. 
and finally, after weeks of waiting, i recieved the nuts to close up my engine case, so that is going to happen today.
sorry for beign so slow with the build, i work now, untill school starts. 
but the project is still alive


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

Spent the Entire evening into the early morning working on the engine. 
I closed the case. 
Put head gasket sealant around all the metal that was being joined, and all the nuts and blots and washers. 
Torqued everything down. I did all of them to 25 ft lbs. Because on CB performance.com it instructs you to torque the 12mm nuts to 25. But my smallest nuts were 13. So i figured I would do 25 for now, and ask you guys. 
I then noticed that the crank was not spinning inside of the case. 
When i heavily loosened all of the nuts it started spinning again. 
So now i gotta take it all aprt again, clean it all up, and put it all back together. 
And, because you all like updates with pictures, here ya go:


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

I hope you pre-oiled ALL of the bearings.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

including the wrist pin bushings when you assemble the rest.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

yes, but that still doesnt explain why the crank wont turn when its al torqued on. 
It might be that my main bearings are the wrong thinckenss. Would that explain it?
Becasue I know that there r the standard thicknes, .010 inch, and .020 inch. 
Also, any reccomendations for how much to torque the bolts. 
I did put kithium grease all over everything when I was putting it all together.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

Did you buy standard oversize bearings with a unground crank?


----------



## buggedowt (Mar 27, 2007)

I can appreciate someone wanting to do a build themselves...but....PLEASE take it apart and clean everything up ,your cam plug is backwards..unless it is an automatic stick,and way too much and wrong type case sealant. it'll leak all over and blow itself apart.If you got that much excess on the outside... how much is on the inside waiting to clog up the oil passages?? What is your deck height and cc??? what compression ratio are you running or plan to run? Don't get all those fancy big motor parts and automatically think it'll all go together and run long without any measuring ..Everything balanced??? I am enjoying your enthusiastic build and admire your tenacity,but ....I warned you.It's your money..and a whole lot of it I see seizing up within the first minute . Put it together dry first a few times. get all your measurements ,know what you are building ,then ,when all fits good,rolls good and is ready to be put together for the final time. Only then...do it. Good luck..
can you say..end play??
















_Modified by buggedowt at 10:03 PM 8-16-2007_


_Modified by buggedowt at 10:03 PM 8-16-2007_


----------



## buggedowt (Mar 27, 2007)

I am not in the least trying to scare you or step on your toes.. I have been following this thread and am like the rest of us, We want to see it back on the road and running like it should so you can get that ultimate rush of accomplishment that it is done right, and you did it yourself....I am backing you 100%..You got the first and main part down..PATIENCE!!


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

I a almost positive Chico sent me the wrogn size mainbearings. 
This is liek the 10th time he forgot to send something, or sent the wrong thing. 
Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. 
Patiene is getting very thin with this engine dude. 
I got the heagsket sealant form my local automotive shp, and they said that it would work just fine, but I tend to be sloppy. 
Tine to redo it.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (buggyman)*

Ok so i gotta get Aviation Form-A-Gasket(yellow). 
Question about washign the case. 
can this be done with soapy water? And if i use that, do i gotta spray wd40 all over, and dump it in oil as i did for my cylinders and pistons, which are still in the same ocndition they were in when i just dipped them. Prolly not? 
I spun the crank with the cam in place, and everythig was ok. I am going to do it again when i rip everything apart. 
I didnt insert any extra mainbearing dowel pins, but i will look at that. 
Again,
thanks for all of the support.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

I pressure washed mine, its fine, just make sure you dont leave anything steel in there. Probably want to blow out the oil passages, bearing seats, lifter seats etc. just incase they have steel sleeves. I dont see anything wrong in dipping it with oil, its just a big mess


----------



## cactu4r (Feb 14, 2006)

this thread has officially scared me away from rebuilding my engine...ive got all the parts ordered, but im not so sure i want to do it myself anymore.........


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

*Re: (cactu4r)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cactu4r* »_this thread has officially scared me away from rebuilding my engine...ive got all the parts ordered, but im not so sure i want to do it myself anymore.........

Im 14 with only a few years of experience with me. Im rebuilding my engine, Its hard, and takes patience, but as long as you have people like buggyman and others guiding you, it can turn out right


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

hahahahaha .... Woops


----------



## air skooled (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

Read this. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2920112 
If you have already, you need to go back and read it a few more times. If you haven't bought the book How to Hotrod VW Engine's, you need to and then you won't be having these problems. Here, I made it easy for you. http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDe...-9693 And when you put an engine together think of yourself as a surgeon. Keep it Clean.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

after talking to the person that i bought the kit from, we determined that one of my mainbearings was pinched. i just gotta take the case apart again and see which mainbearing i need to change.


----------



## buggedowt (Mar 27, 2007)

when you install the bearings and crank in,set it in,get the bearings dowel pins to line up correctly,then use a marks a lot and draw straight lines down the center of the bearings so you can tell how they line up. make sure it fits good and tight,then turn it for a smooth rotation. did you bother to lubricate the bearings prior to assembly?? use STP oil treatment. works great . Make sure the dowel pins line up and the pin holes in the bearings are mated. there are other holes in the bearings which can be easily mistaken for the correct dowel hole.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

slowly. 
school takes up too much time. 
i talked to the body shop. they want to sandblast the entire car before they can give me a quote on the paint job, but they havnt told me how much it is to blast the car yet.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

ok, i am back, i hope.
school sucks, but w/e. 
finally talked to a body shop, agreed on a price, and i think i have found the color i want. 
aquarious blue, the one they use on New Beetle Convertibles. 
So i am taking it into the body shop sometime next week. 
Ok about the engine, i noticed that as i unscrew the case nuts, the actual studs come out with the nuts as well, is this okay? will i just be able to bolt those rite back in later? Also, what is going to wash that gunk off? because it is quite sticky.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

I used a solvent tank to get rid of my sealant, as for the studs coming out with the nuts, I dont think thats suppost to happen, the threads on the studs and nuts are probably very dirty, clean them up with a wire brush, but dont forget to clean out the case after your done.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

ok thanks, gonna do that then. 
question. before i take it into the bodyshop to paint, i need to find fenders. i know CCC had them and also markV fiberglass. but does anybody have used ones for sale? or know about someone who does? also, i think i might need a new hood and decklid. thanks


----------



## buggedowt (Mar 27, 2007)

Dude... just use some mineral spirits or some denatured alcohol and rags to remove the sealant from the case. Don't use a razor against the aluminum because you are taking a chance on gouging it .Find a thick piece of plastic and shave the end down if you want to scrap the sealant off.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

You could only gouge it if your not scraping it right, or your careless. I just used solvent and an aluminum wire brush, probably not the best way, but no visible gouges for me


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

ok. 
i need some paint help. 
i need to find the perfect color in the next few days. 
i am contemplating between the colors, white, light blue, and yellow. a soft light yellow. 
anybody know of paintcodes, and model years and cars that were sprayed in this color?
anything would help. 
tia 
EDIT: NO BLACK! I HATE BLACK 


_Modified by 71DubBugBug at 7:35 AM 9-24-2007_


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

Black with white trim







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

Shantung Yellow







original 1971 VW color







my Super's original color (going back to that color when I repaint it again)
L12D


----------



## air skooled (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

Try this. http://www.hallvw.clara.net/vwpaint.htm


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*

my supers color might have actually been that color oroginally as well. 
there was a color similar ot that under the tons of layers of paint that i sanded and stripped away. 
well, the car is at the body shop. 
but i hve about another week to decide on the color.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

its down to marina blue or aquarius blue. 
we need to set up a vote.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*









FINALLY!!!!!!!
My new best friend: 








It took me quite a while to get all of the crap disolved, and tomorrow I will clean the entire case. 
You all were CORRECT about it gettin inbetween the places for the oil to flow. 
















































I also tore the guetto rigged padding off of one of the seats. 








!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! HELP ME GET RID OF THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My parents are getting annoyed of the dirty look of the garage, which will be fixed when the car comes back from the body shop,





















, but they want me to get rid of all the old stuff. 








All I am keeping are the door cars, I could probably get rid of everything else, the rear seats, the front seats, or whats left of them, the old guages, the old fuel tank, getting a bigger one, the old wheels ... 
The list continues, and the old engine is included in this list. 
I have narrowed the color choices down to two different colors. 
1. 
Aquarius Blue 
LB5B
Off of the New Beetle Convertibles, and the 2003 Mexican old Bug. 
http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif ?
2. 
Miami Blau 
L51C
A paint availible on the 1977 Swallowtail. 
http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif ?
My mom likes #1, but I like #2. 







































































Yet another page to my build thread!!!


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3470015
The constitution gave everyone the right to VOTE!!!
so, VOTE!
thanks 
CAREFUL:
The choices are flipped on the pole!

_Modified by 71DubBugBug at 9:13 AM 10-1-2007_


_Modified by 71DubBugBug at 10:25 AM 10-1-2007_


----------



## cactu4r (Feb 14, 2006)

nah, it just depends on which was voted for last. i picked the Ultima Edicion blue.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

How goes the project?

GET THAT BENCH GRINDER AWAY FROM THAT ENGINE RIGHT NOW!


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

OH NO, 
It protects the engine. 
Because if anyone other than me comes near the engine, I take their hands to the grinding wheels, to teach them a lesson.





























My brother is a slow learner, and well, i wont post pictures of whats left of his hands.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

But really, I would get that bench grinder away, especially if you plan on grinding anything. Small particles will fall into your engine block and sooner or later get into your bearings.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

I stopped by the body shop today. 
Not much work got done, but will show you anyway. 
They dont seem to be in a hurry. 








































71sbeetle, that answer your question about the decklid? 


_Modified by 71DubBugBug at 4:59 PM 10-5-2007_


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

Engine:
a. 
















b. 
























c. 
































d. 
I didnt take pictures of the last one because it shouldn't move, correct? 
Because it doesn't.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

whats the "last" one, show pictures please


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*









The beaering farthest to the left, rite by the oil slinger.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

What do you mean it doesnt move? The shaft cant rotate inside the bearing? That is definitely a problem!


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

yep, the shaft doesnt roate inside of it.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

Well thats not good, shoot some oil all over the shaft and see if it unseizes.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (buggyman)*

buggyman, 
I have already started to clean up the red sealant. 
Anibal from California told me the same thing, about the pinch. 
thanks again


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

where can i get that tool to take the brass gear off, and the other gear. 
the one where you attach a socket to it.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

Here is what I found. 
http://www.cbperformance.com/c...=1061 
Any other places to get these? 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem 
Would this one work? Or raather get the CB Performance one. 
http://www.cbperformance.com/c...=1074 
Is that going to be good for sealing my case? 
Also, 
http://www.cbperformance.com/c...=1044 
A set of these would probsbly be helpful, correct? 


_Modified by 71DubBugBug at 3:21 PM 10-9-2007_


----------



## Beetle008 (May 1, 2003)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

You really need to ask all these questions in the samba forum group. You will find a larger aircooled crowd and greater wealth of knowledge of aircooled VWs in that site. I'm on it daily!
http://www.thesamba.com


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Beetle008)*

Candy White, LB9A it is. 
Just like 71sbeetle's Passat Wagon


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

I cant wait


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

its going to be a while


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*


_Quote, originally posted by *71DubBugBug* »_its going to be a while































I might end up finishing my buggy before you, and I work slow, and I mean SLOW















The tortoise might beat the hare in this race


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

What race? I was never racing? 
Rushing is what f-ed my engine up. 
I quit that sport. 
I hope to have engine assembled, suspension assembled, brakes all put together, all by the time the car gets back from the body shop . 
but it all takes time to get everything perfect. 


_Modified by 71DubBugBug at 10:04 PM 10-15-2007_


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

A very slow race, in a non competitive way







I used to stay up all night working on my buggy, until i brought it to school


----------



## eviljettavr6 (Feb 25, 2002)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

so what color did ya pick ?


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (eviljettavr6)*

CANDY WHITE! 
LB9A


----------



## Curt_pnw (Nov 27, 2005)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*


_Quote, originally posted by *71DubBugBug* »_CANDY WHITE! 
LB9A 


yeahhh white is the only way to go.
i have an alpine white mk2. i love candy white as well, good choice http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Curt_mk2)*

Yes, White is the only way to fo!
I stopped by the body shop and work on the body will only begin in two weeks.





























I recieved 2" wider than stock front fenders from MarkV fiberglass, 71SBeetle's old kamei front spoiler, and MSD6AL as well as MAD 2 step module selector. 
71SBeetle, please check your IMs!
Engine work is going slow, its been cold as F-uck lately.


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*


_Quote, originally posted by *71DubBugBug* »_
71SBeetle, please check your IMs!


didn't get anything


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*

woops, 
i forgot to click send. 
check again!


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/for...65437
as several of you advised, a thread on thesamba! 
hope you liky, i skipped a few things, like the stupid questions I had, and other little things.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

also,
who is who on the samba
like what are your usernames on there?


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

happy thanksgiving everyone


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

I had thanksgiving last month. Why could USA and Canada agree on the date? lol


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

Btw, go give the body shop a kick in the pants and tell them to hurry up!


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (buggyman)*

I went to the body shop.
A month ago they said the owner would be bakc in 2 weeks, not he is coming back next week, yup, i am mad!






















Russian people cant tell the truth to save themselves. 
Anyway, 
















71SBeetle, where did you get that sticker? You know which one I speak of.
























I took a close look at it, especially the cup that was glued on to hold the headlight, I hadnt imagined that these would literally be done by hand.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (buggyman)*

One more








I just need to figure out how high my engine can rev, without exploding.


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*


_Quote, originally posted by *71DubBugBug* »_71SBeetle, where did you get that sticker? You know which one I speak of.









The one below the Kamei emblem ? I had them made







I have some left here, black, white, 4", 6" and 12" tall


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*

Yes, that one.
Ok lets go over these once more before I order!. 
1. Camshaft Gear Puller. 
http://www.cbperformance.com/c...=1061
2. Lifter Retairner Springs
http://www.cbperformance.com/c...=1044
3. A set of mainbearings.
4. New woodruff jeys. 
5. Engine Sealer. 
http://www.cbperformance.com/c...=1074 ????? Anything better?
Also, how do I restud the case? someone mentioned a name o a process of doing this, but never explained it. 
Also, do I need loctite for that as well?


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

I used Aviation Form-A-Gasket for sealing up my block, you could probably find it at any hardware, or general automotive store. I'd use loctite for any studs being put in.


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

"Sound familiar Happy?"
Yes it sounds very familiar, i actually tried to torque my studs into the block, resulting in metal shaving dropping into the engine. I had to tear down the block again just to clean those shavings out. Thanks buggyman for mentioning loctite on the nuts as well, I torqued mine without loctite, Ill go back and redo them.


----------



## bullyboy (May 23, 2002)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

"I just need to figure out how high my engine can rev, without exploding"
What did RPM limit did you have it balanced for?
Where do the heads stop making power?
That's where you set your rev limiter.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

k parts ordered, and on their way


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

yay, I forsee progress.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

as do I, but very slow. 
semester 1 of school is gonna be over at 3:00 pm on thursday!


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

slow progress is better than no progress


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

i think someone in my family tossed my gas door into the garbage, where can i get one? 
i think the paint place will want it very soon


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

http://www.thesamba.com


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

i searched gas door on the samba, nothing
cip1, i called them, dont have it


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

I feel your pain.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

i guess i am going to go without one
and cut each limb off of the person in my family that tossed it!


----------



## air skooled (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

I have a few I will sell you.


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*


_Quote, originally posted by *71DubBugBug* »_i searched gas door on the samba, nothing
cip1, i called them, dont have it


ok call these people then:
http://www.bfyobsoleteparts.com


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*

i wil tomorrow
my heads are set up for 6500, but i should not shift past 6k
its good that the chip that you sent me was for 6k!


----------



## air skooled (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

IM sent.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

IM sent back


----------



## air skooled (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

Your gas door is on the way. Sent it to the 8 address. Should see it friday or sat at the latest.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

thank you!
idiots at the body shop still have not started, making excuses that I said I cant drive it in the winter, and its going to be done after new years at the earliest.
seriously conisdering changing body shops!


----------



## air skooled (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*


_Quote, originally posted by *71DubBugBug* »_seriously conisdering changing body shops! 


You're welcome. Sounds like a plan.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

yep, because what the body shop is doing is obnoxious. 
not a single word of truth comes out of that @ss holes mouth


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (air skooled)*

thanks air skooled, got the gas door in
also, main bearings came in, but waiting on the gear puller from CB performance


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

watched topics list, 
updates:
i finally got the gear puller and lifter retainer springs from CB performance








also, I moved my opperation to my basement


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (buggyman)*

I AM BACK.
got back last night from a 10 day trip to europe. 
today went to have a look at the body shop, and was surprised!
PROGRESS!
these should be self explanitory, i think


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

more or less detailed shots








71sbeetle, look familiar?


----------



## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*








I cant wait! Had fun at europe I hope?


----------



## AnythingVW (Oct 13, 2004)

*Re: (buggyman)*

I'm diggin your project bro http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Cant wait to see it completed.

I am putting the finishing touches on my Super Beetle rebuild too. 
Check it out here...
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3628394


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

thanks everyone.
i just hope that the inside of the front end being black wont look too bad.
guess i will have to do carpet.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (AnythingVW)*

UPDATES: 
First, the good. 
and then the bad. 
well, i think this is good


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

ok this is the bad part.
when we had agreed on everything, me and the bodyshop guy, it was agreed that the interior would all be white, minus the clear coat. now i find out that they cant do white in the interior.
there are two choices. 
1. keep it looking ****ed up like it is
2. doing the entire interior rough black, other than the dashboard. 
















































i am leaning towards the interior just being done in rough black.


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

rear apron ..... rubber plugs ...... painted over ....... eeek

as for the interior, was it agreed in writing or no ?


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*

and I just noticed your front apron is still smacked like ****, what gives ?


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*

yes, i just noticed about the rubber getting painted all over. 
it looks like they don't understand how these things need to be done, but i dont think they can go back. 
as about the agreed in writing. i drafted a "contract", that we were both supposed to sign, but he refused to sign it, claiming it wasn't real estate. 
front apron, i dunno


----------



## Jeepr21 (Jul 28, 2004)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

i say let them finish the exterior, and then when thats done... spraypaint it yourself... i know i might get flammed for this but w/e... i would cover all the holes that lead to the exterior up so you don't spray on your brand new body... and use high temp engine paint in a gloss white... it will come out really well... test it in a small area first if you don't trust me... you can spray it, wetsand it lightly, maybe a clearcoat, wetsand... and wax... seriously though. that would get you a white interior... I Personally would go with a gloss black interior... and rug it all up after... well thats what i'm personally going with in my interior... but i'm painting the inside first... then sending it off to paint... also might want to try some sort of rust preventor on it first... like a gray primer type... then apply your paint.


----------



## l5gcw0b (Mar 3, 2000)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*


_Quote, originally posted by *71DubBugBug* »_..
front apron, i dunno 


It looks bent under for sure.


----------



## jetbug (Aug 30, 2006)

im dubbugs brother and i just want to say, im proud of how far the project has come.
I mean its not easy and its taking longer than expected and it looks great.
Now its just time to finish the engine
keep up the good work


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (jetbug)*

i visited the shop again today, but didn't take the camera, stupid me!
anyway, the doors have been sprayed, as has the decklid.
waiting to be sprayed are all four fenders, the hood, and the front spoiler. 
finally figured out a way to get it home when it gets done, measured the body, and it shoud fit perfectly in a 13 foot by 5 foot 7 inch box. So most likely going to rent a 14 or 17 foot trailer from u-haul. this saturday or next. 
question, to anyone who knows
about putting more modern lights onto the bug, such as xenons, HIDs, LEDs. 
anyone ever done that?


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

I was reading about LEDs, it will work fine, only one is the turn signals that need a load equalizer to work correctly (or you will get the rice stupid fast flasher)
As for HIDs, unless you get a projector housing (they make 7" round ones, the projector isn't 7" but it's mounted and basically fits right in where your sealed beam goes) it won't be good.


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*

HID legal reflector (not as good as projector)


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*

one more of the XE7:


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*

thanks


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

I was thinking more along the lines of 
























6k or 8k 
inside of: 
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autop...10101


----------



## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

yeah but that will look like **** IMHO
anyway, go with 6000k, anything higher than 4100/4300k is just bluer but not as bright, 8000k is stupid, and 12000k is just plain whack


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*

got a call today, paint is finished.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

SHE IS HOME! 
We rented a 17foot UHaul truck. took them an hour to jump the thing, because it was 0 degrees outside.








Took the doors and the fenders downstairs.
















And the body and chassis are in the garage. 
























I must say, i am very happy with the way it turned out. could have been better, but its very nice.


----------



## jetbug (Aug 30, 2006)

sweet paint job
rough black turned out better than i thought
now when it gets a little warmer you can start putting it together


----------



## Cptn. SenseofDirection (Oct 30, 2007)

looks awesome. great color
only wish i would've kept up on my project


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## eviljettavr6 (Feb 25, 2002)

*Re: (jetbug)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif very nice


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (eviljettavr6)*

thanks
2 more additions today


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## jetbug (Aug 30, 2006)

spoiler looks so much better than before..
any ideas for whats insignia is gonna go on that decklid?


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

i am still alive, getting started doing. 
tkaing the crank apart to clena everything from that red sh it, do the connecting rod bolts need to stay with the same connecting rods? should i spend the time keeping them together or does it not matter?


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## vwgli_04 (Sep 4, 2007)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

thats looks awesome good work man


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (vwgli_04)*

thanks
oh, btw, i got my bonnet back from the body shop, have taken apart the crank, and am working on cleaning all the parts.


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*1971 posts!*

1971 POSTS! 

do we get it? 






































i have started working again updates soon, maybe. 
like the movie; definitely, maybe 


_Modified by 71DubBugBug at 2:12 PM 2-18-2008_


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*UPDATES!!!!!!*

Everything is all clean now! 
















2 questions.
1 what oil should i use for assembly. 
2 What do i torque connecting rods to? I know we talked bout this already.


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## air skooled (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: UPDATES!!!!!! (71DubBugBug)*

I've always used this. Any parts store should carry it. http://www.naparts.com/Product...=1660
I would torque the rods to what the manufacturer states. Should have been a card with them of contact CB Perf. Remember...very thin coat of sealer on the case


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

i went to three part stores in my are and all they had was 
http://permatex.carshopinc.com...81950
i asked them all, and they said it works the same way as the one air skooled linked me to. 
one problem. I bolted don my first connecting rid, and it fells like its got a bit of resistance. 
What is the check you are supposed to do? where you raise it to a certain angle and time how long it takes for it to fall?


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

buggyman said: 
"Do all the rods still rotate freely and drop from near-verticle at the same rate of speed in both directions" 
a few pages ago. 
so as long as they all move at the same rate?
or is there a certain rate they should be moving at?


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## air skooled (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

You need to get some plastigage from your parts store and check clearances. That is the ONLY way to do it. I hope your following my build up.


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## fightthisfeeling (Apr 28, 2006)

updates


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

very soon


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

http://www.plastidip.com/indus...i_Dip 
for the interior, what does everyone think?


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## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

I think no http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

*Re: (71sbeetle)*

x2


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

71sbeetle and happy person 
any reason? or think it will look like crap


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## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

will look like crap, will be hard to clean, will add considerable weight, next owner will hate you for it, etc etc etc ....


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## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

Looks like a cheap tacky product. Wouldn't look right with such a perfectly restored beetle.


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Happy_person36* »_Looks like a cheap tacky product. Wouldn't look right with such a perfectly restored beetle.

mine is everything but perfectly restored


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## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

If not perfectly, then beautifully







What im trying to say is, that your car is too nice for that product.


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Happy_person36* »_If not perfectly, then beautifully







What im trying to say is, that your car is too nice for that product.

thanks for the kind words
i finish with school, this year of it, in 1 week and 1 day
and then the project is number one on my priorities list


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## eviljettavr6 (Feb 25, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*


_Quote, originally posted by *71DubBugBug* »_
thanks for the kind words
i finish with school, this year of it, in 1 week and 1 day
and then the project is number one on my priorities list

nice http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

you got a 08 rex? 
btw how is your bug doing?


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## eviljettavr6 (Feb 25, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*


_Quote, originally posted by *71DubBugBug* »_you got a 08 rex? 
btw how is your bug doing? 

yup they are both fine


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## fightthisfeeling (Apr 28, 2006)

your car looks beautiful, Im in the process of rebuilding mine, and putting a vr6 into it. I only hope it will look as good as yours some day. Come check it out sometime http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3821049
And Good luck on finishing it!


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (fightthisfeeling)*


_Quote, originally posted by *fightthisfeeling* »_your car looks beautiful, 

THANKS
i checked your thread out, good luck!


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*distractions distractions distractions*

















his name is Turbo 
finally starting to figure his schedule and everything out, and he is getting used to his new home
updates in the next few days


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

got back from a trip ot switzerland a few days ago 
they have aircooled VWs there too


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*question*

back to building the bug 
Crankcase nuts
Crankcase 12mm nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 ft/lbs. 
Crankcase 8mm nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 ft/lbs. 
Cylinder head nuts
Stock 8mm studs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 ft/lbs. 
Chromoly 8mm studs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 ft/lbs. 
10m studs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 ft/lbs. 
Connecting Rod Bolts
Stock T-1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 ft/lbs. 
UniTech. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 ft/lbs. 
Uni Tech HD w/ARP 3/8" bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 ft/lbs.
CB H-Beam/ARP Bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 ft/lbs. 
(consult with other mfgs)
Generator Pulley. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 ft/lbs. 
Spark Plug. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 ft/lbs. 
Oil Drain Plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 ft/lbs. 
Rocker Arm Shaft Nut. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 ft/lbs. 
Clutch Pressure Plate. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 ft/lbs. 
Stock Gland Nut. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250 ft/lbs. 
Racing Gland Nut. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .350 ft/lbs. 
Valve Adjusting Nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 ft/lbs.
should i go with the torque specs on this table, from CBPerformance.com? 
another question, can end play be measured and adjusted after the case is closed? or must this be done before as shown in the bug me video


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## air skooled (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: question (71DubBugBug)*

You can do it either way. If you don't have a dial indicator do it the video way. Adjustments can always be made with the case closed later if need be.


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## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: question (buggyman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *buggyman* »_The torque list looks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif .
The one to watch out for is the small oil drain plate cap screws not shown on the list,5 ft/lbs







.










I always thought those were 5 inch.lb


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## Bariman82 (Jan 26, 2004)

*Re: question (71sbeetle)*

Definitely 5 foot pounds. 5 inch pounds would be almost nothing!


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## vwbugman74 (Apr 24, 2008)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*


_Quote, originally posted by *71DubBugBug* »_








got back from a trip ot switzerland a few days ago 
they have aircooled VWs there too 


I would do anything to have that license plate on my bug. ANYTHING.


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## 71sbeetle (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (vwbugman74)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwbugman74* »_
I would do anything to have that license plate on my bug. ANYTHING.









Anything ???
http://www.licenseplates.tv/pr....html


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

HOLY SH*T 
1302 ... i just noticed its a super beetle
wow, im retarded sometimes 
and the decklid vents r just like mine


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

a few final questions before i close the case for the second time, very nervous 
1
this is the wrong way to put the flywheels seal in correct? as i did the last time

_Quote, originally posted by *71DubBugBug* »_








 
2
also, for the 2 dowel pins for the bearings that are farthest from the crank, the dowel pins are just coming out of their holes a tiny bit, is this ok? because its impossible for me to get them out. but they are out far enough that i can feel where to place the main bearings and mark them so that i dont pinch anything else.


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (buggyman)*

yep, makes sense
i think im going to have to drill them out, because they stick out so little that i can't get pliers to stick around them so that i can pull them out. 
called every parts store in the area, and nobody has nothing
here is what i found in terms of dowel pins online
the difference between the flywheel ones and the main bearing ones is a bit confusing 
http://www.mamotorworks.com/acvw?frame=1.3385
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDe...5093B
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDe...2D277
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDe...2D277
this looks like the part i need, correct?

_Quote, originally posted by *http://www.mamotorworks.com* »_1


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## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

Well, if I were you, I would drill a tiny hole into the dowel pins that you cant get out, and screw a screw into them and pull them out with a slide hammer, thats how I got mine out. If you put them in and they dont stick out enough, I would just cut down a few dowel pins and stick them in, then the real dowels in. That would make the dowels stick out farther, but you would have to make sure they dont stick out too far that it makes the bearing sit out. Thats the ******* way, NOT the best way.


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (buggyman)*

buggyman
when you say remachine the case, so you mean drill a larger dowel pin hole? 
sorry for the stupid question, but machining a case can include lots of other things 
ive been calling machine shops in my area and none of them do that kind of work


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## air skooled (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

If the pins are not sloppy in the case there is no reason for machining. The pins should be 8mm in length. Try gettting them out with a strong magnet. Measure the depth of the hole and then call Rimco to see what they say. They could possibly make some longer oness. Make sure your pins are the correct length.


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (air skooled)*

ok i got everything out 
first i went to bill @ 
Apex Auto
224 Evergreen Ave
Bensenville, IL 60106
(630) 766-7168
its this garage in an industrial area, haven't seen so many engine blocks, camshafts, crankshafts, and pistons in a while 
i could barely walk through the place. he talked to me for about an hour and referred me to Ralph @ 
Witt Disintegrating Service 
729 W. Fullerton Ave. Unit f
Addison, IL 60101
(630) 628-9570
left the case half there overnight and the next morning i came to pick it up, and the two dowel pins were no longer there. the guy uses a process called EMD,where hes got this electrode that disintegrates the metal, and water washes it away 
total: $50



_Modified by 71DubBugBug at 4:16 PM 6-18-2008_


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

took a bike, bicycle, trip up to Madison a few days ago
and am now in Niagara falls. should be back monday, and will get back to work


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

i lost my torque wrench, and have to get a new one 
question 
is one of these going to be ok, the +/- 4% accuracy
http://www.harborfreight.com/c...r=807
or should i go out and get a nicer one, like a mac tools one which is $238


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## Silver01GLS (Jan 16, 2008)

I just read through your thread and the car looks great. I am redoing a 72 super in the Germanlook style and wish my car would have been half as rust free as yours looks.


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Silver01GLS)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Silver01GLS* »_I just read through your thread and the car looks great. I am redoing a 72 super in the Germanlook style and wish my car would have been half as rust free as yours looks.

thanks! yep i didnt have much rust, other than the pans 
question 
since some of the case studs came out and i have to put them back one 
it was explained to me that i gotta screw two nuts onto the stud, and tighten them into each other, and use the top one to tighten the stud into the case 
how much should i torque that too? just as much as im going to torque the nut thats going on once i close the case?


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## calyp_so_fine (Jun 9, 2008)

good work.
subscribed


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## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*


_Quote, originally posted by *71DubBugBug* »_
it was explained to me that i gotta screw two nuts onto the stud, and tighten them into each other, and use the top one to tighten the stud into the case 
how much should i torque that too? just as much as im going to torque the nut thats going on once i close the case? 


Do not! Torque them to anything more than barely snug, with some loctite. I made the mistake of torquing them and it stripped my case










_Modified by Happy_person36 at 11:30 PM 7-10-2008_


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Happy_person36* »_
Do not! Torque them to anything more than barely snug, with some loctite. I made the mistake of torquing them and it stripped my case









_Modified by Happy_person36 at 11:30 PM 7-10-2008_

ok thanks
btw, anyone know what happened to buggyman?


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## eviljettavr6 (Feb 25, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

any updates pic etc


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## Hey its Antman (May 30, 2002)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

up dates http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Hey its Antman)*

no major updates 
been taking apart old parts to get rid of lately to try to free space in the garage


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## JettaGetUpandGo (Mar 1, 2005)

*FV-QR*

Just read through your entire thread. Looks like it's starting to take shape. I admire your willingness to learn and your dedication!


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## vdubstar (Jun 16, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (JettaGetUpandGo)*

Wow! Keeping a look out on this one http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## r0nd3L (Nov 1, 2005)

*?*

Any updates?


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: ? (r0nd3L)*


_Quote, originally posted by *r0nd3L* »_Any updates?


i need help
here are my 2 case halves








and








i have 2 studs left that i dont know where they go 
these two


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## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

Above the back end (opposite side of flywheel) crankshaft bearing seat.


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Happy_person36* »_Above the back end (opposite side of flywheel) crankshaft bearing seat.

you are talking about the one with the threads on each end, and no threads in the middle 
also, looking at the second picture of the engine case, the on that is on the stand. 
to the far left, the area i think you are talking about, it looks like it is missing 2 case studs no?


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## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*









Use the stud with no threads in the middle on the threaded hole closest to the crankshaft, and the fully threaded one, on the more outer part http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
The holes with no threads in them, are filled in with the studs on the other side of the case. And the bottom back and front holes (bottom part of the block) have a bolt and nut on the other end, i think.


_Modified by Happy_person36 at 8:31 PM 10-28-2008_


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

*Re: (Happy_person36)*

Just IM'd the same reply







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif .


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## buggedowt (Mar 27, 2007)

Did you get someone who knows what they are doing to help you out in putting that motor together yet??? Unless you have deep pockets...then go for it. Did you have the pistons,crank,rods,wristpins etc...balanced??? Don't take it for granted that it will go together and run..it may run,but not as long or smooth if you don't take the time and get help . I admire your enthusiasm,I think you are on a good track,but get someone to show you and learn the ins and outs of measuring, gaps and balancing. You are throwing money at this motor all because you are putting it together with all good intentions,but there is more to a vw motor,especially a hi-performance VW motor that needs some experience and technique to get the full benefit out of it.Good luck and I am keeping an eye on this build...have been for over a year now and have already jumped your butt before ..so I will keep at it my friend!!


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## classic_bug_lover (Mar 11, 2009)

*Re: (buggedowt)*

What a process, sounds like definitely a great deal of work
i was really hoping to see the end product when i got to the end of the post
lol oh well i guess the suspense can grow some.
it's been a while since an update, but i would love one
and it seems a few other people are interested too


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: question (71DubBugBug)*


_Quote »_
Crankcase nuts
Crankcase 12mm nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 ft/lbs. 
Crankcase 8mm nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 ft/lbs. 
Cylinder head nuts
Stock 8mm studs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 ft/lbs. 
Chromoly 8mm studs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 ft/lbs. 
10m studs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 ft/lbs. 
Connecting Rod Bolts
Stock T-1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 ft/lbs. 
UniTech. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 ft/lbs. 
Uni Tech HD w/ARP 3/8" bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 ft/lbs.
CB H-Beam/ARP Bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 ft/lbs. 
(consult with other mfgs)
Generator Pulley. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 ft/lbs. 
Spark Plug. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 ft/lbs. 
Oil Drain Plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 ft/lbs. 
Rocker Arm Shaft Nut. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 ft/lbs. 
Clutch Pressure Plate. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 ft/lbs. 
Stock Gland Nut. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250 ft/lbs. 
Racing Gland Nut. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .350 ft/lbs. 
Valve Adjusting Nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 ft/lbs.


so i dont have to keep looking for it every time i need it 



_Modified by 71DubBugBug at 11:18 PM 5-24-2009_


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

questions
1.
As you can see in this pic, theres a tiny bit of rust forming on the case studs 


Happy_person36 said:


> The same is on the camshaft and on the connecting rods.
> Does anything need to be done about this?
> 2.
> Since its been so long that I have not worked on the engine, is it a good idea that i loosen the camshaft gear, as well as the connecting rods, and re-torque them?
> ...


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## air skooled (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

The rust is fine as long as it is not on the bearing surfaces. As far as the case studs go, hand tight and then if you want take some pliers and turn it to make sure they are in all the way and didn't hang up half way in. Just look at them to verify they are all in the same amount. Remember the #3 case saver should be sunk in deeper and needs the longer stud. I would set the cam gear at 0 degrees. Do not loosen up the rod or cam bolts. They will be fine.


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## 72marinablue (Dec 1, 2008)

*Re: (air skooled)*

Def leave the cam timing at zero. You can always adjust your timing with your dist after the engine is assembled.


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## Happy_person36 (Dec 22, 2006)

*Re: (72marinablue)*


_Quote, originally posted by *72marinablue* »_Def leave the cam timing at zero. You can always adjust your timing with your dist after the engine is assembled. 

The cam timing is for timing the valve positions relative to the crankshaft rotation. The distributor is for ignition timing of the sparkplugs


----------

