# Vacuum pump leak. Repair? Replace? Air conditioning



## chadweis (Mar 1, 2015)

2.5l manual Jetta 140k 2011
New oil leak. Dealer reports it as vacuum pump but i haven't checked yet. I see that it's a common problem and there are replacement gaskets and I'm leaning towards that option. BUT, could replacing the vacuum pump improve air conditioning in any way???

this car has always had trouble creating cold with the ac. It's been checked and refilled with refrigerant twice, no known leaks. It does cool down a bit when reved up and moving down the road, but it's warm at idle. Are they related on this car? Some have done the delete and report no ill effect on breaking, but what about AC efficiency?.


----------



## jethead102 (Oct 4, 2014)

A/C is weak in this engine, frustrating but that's just how it is for most of us.

I'd recommend the spulen vacuum delete kit, but if it's too pricey then there's replacement gasket kits that work ok for a little while. I think they're $40 or so on Amazon vs the 120 or so for the delete kit. I've been perfectly content with my delete kit for 70k+ miles. 

All that said, unless it's really annoying to you, and the oil leak is actually dripping on the ground, your cheapest option is to just add oil as necessary

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Ichabod0525 (Feb 11, 2018)

Delete or replacement gasket set is not to difficult with lots of how-to videos out there to consult. You say "It's been checked and refilled with refrigerant twice, no known leaks." but if it's been refilled then you do seem to have a leak I would say. This is probably a Clutchless Variable Displacement Compressor and it's operation may be unfamiliar to a less experienced shop. Have it checked by someplace appropriate. No the vacuum pump has no affect on the AC.


----------



## chadweis (Mar 1, 2015)

Thank you greatly for the advice. Good to know that the vacuum pump has no effect on AC. I had the refrigerant filled by the dealer. They said they didn't see anything visually wrong with the system, and they wanted to charge me $$$ to do an in-depth inspection. No thanks to that.


----------



## jjr57 (Sep 17, 2018)

chadweis said:


> Thank you greatly for the advice. Good to know that the vacuum pump has no effect on AC. I had the refrigerant filled by the dealer. They said they didn't see anything visually wrong with the system, and they wanted to charge me $$$ to do an in-depth inspection. No thanks to that.


If you have a reputable local shop they can charge the AC with a dye that will show leaks. I believe the dye is spotted using a black-light, if there is a leak. I had another vehicle done with this method and the leak was in an elbow on a hard line. Would hever have found the leak otherwise.


----------



## JaxPlanet (Sep 17, 2018)

I'm with jethead102 on deleting the VP when it fails. It is one less part to fail and the main reason I chose the 2.5 NA was reliability.

When the time comes for mine, I am going to use the method that "le0n" described in this post using the IE block off plate: https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6906285-Vacuum-pump-delete

The lower price of the IE plate with fittings and, to a lesser degree, using high pressure fuel hose instead of silicone hose are more appealing to me than the Spulen kit.

That said, having the Spulen kit does simplify the process, especially before so many helpful DiY posts were available.

Either way you go, no VP no VP problems :thumbup:


----------



## nekkidlad (Oct 4, 2013)

Vacuum pump delete is the way to go, there’s really no reason to keep it. It’s expensive to replace, doesn’t last long with the reseal kits, and robs hp by just being there(like 1-2 but nonetheless). There’s the spulen kit, the spulen blockoff plate(just the plate from the spulen kit), and the IE(integrated engineering) blockoff plate. The last two options you have to figure out how to get vacuum back to the brake booster. As mentioned before on here le0n has probably the best way to do it (it’s linked on a previous post here). Lots of videos online on how to install the spulen kit if you go that route(what I personally got) for my rabbit).

The vacuum pump is there to provide vacuum for the brakes because Vw decided it needs more vacuum than the engine can provide at some point or another. It has no effect on A/C function whatsover.

One thing I can suggest for improving the AC is replacing the AC refrigerant regulator valve in the compressor. It takes like 15 mins(kind of a PITA location tho, you can also change it after removing the compressor but that makes it an hour job for no real reason). You can find it online easily for $40-70 and then get the system recharged after. I can not guarantee it’ll fix the AC, but it’s a hell of a lot cheaper than replacing the compressor(dealer and most shop’s answer to the mk5 AC repair). It’s something else you can try to see if it helps and as you already said, it’s been recharged already with no difference. Also look around the forum, it’s a known fact they fail on almost all mk5 Jetta/golf/rabbits.

As already mentioned here AC on these cars is kinda weak from the factory, so if that doesn’t help you just kinda have to deal with it after that.


----------



## Stu3 (Jul 17, 2012)

I think I just joined the club on my 2012 2.5L auto Beetle (30K miles). I watched all the videos on how to access the pump to either install a new one, repair with new gaskets or delete without separating the engine/tranny. The level of effort to get to that pump is pretty intense even with the hack of pulling the cover off the pump so you can clear the auto shifter rod. The Spulen kit is $120 ish and you can buy a new pump for $200. Looks like the same labor charge to install a new pump as to install the delete and find a new vacuum source.

What should an independent garage charge to install the delete kit or the pump? I am not going to tackle this project myself but would like to have an informed discussion when I call them.

What does the hive mind say is the best way to crack this nut?


----------



## jethead102 (Oct 4, 2014)

Go with the delete. If you replace the pump, it'll just delay another leak.

Shouldn't be too hard to diy with the delete, the hardest part would be maneuvering the new pump into position. Maybe 2 hours for an honest vw shop. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Stu3 (Jul 17, 2012)

Thx guys. Most shops here in VA have told me "we only do it the VW way" and want close to $2K. One guy said we can install a new pump...we know how...$1500 and I suspect he will do it by removing the cover plate on a replacement pump. Nobody is willing to do the delete option because of the liability issue and I think I can understand that. Not worth the risk for them.

I have seen the videos on how to do most of the options.... replace seals on the existing pump....install new pump....pump delete. All without separating the engine and transmission. I'd try it myself but have limited tool and no garage and I'd be afraid that after 4 hours, I would have car and skinned knuckles and tears, it would be on a flatbed getting towed to a dealer.

WTF VW... you make a car with a part that cost $200 but to install it you have to separate the engine and transmission? Seals that fail at 30K miles? Methinks this is my first and last VW.


----------



## jethead102 (Oct 4, 2014)

You'll be saying wtf for many years to come owning a German car. Comes with the territory. You'll also have an incredibly good ownership and driving experience forany years to come, if you look at it the way the car was designed. Germans take really good care of their stuff and strictly follow the manual, unlike many Americans. They have mechanics, listen to them, and invest in their asset. We tend to want to turn the key and go.

Are you calling dealerships or indy shops? A good local guy should be OK with installation 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## nekkidlad (Oct 4, 2013)

Like I stated above in another post, delete definitely the way to go. Cost is minimal, installation is easy and quick(IE plate is a bit more hands on because you need to figure out your own vac source - which is still very easy to do, where the spulen kit is all inclusive).

As far as labor at a shop they’re all going to charge you WAY too much, specially if they’re not familiar with this procedure. They’ll look it up on all data or some other technical reference and find “step 1: remove transmission” and go “yep, 8hr+ job“.

If you don’t want to try it yourself I suggest finding somebody that is mechanically inclined to help you or jump in and learn to work on it. The only real hard part about this job is the cramped location(specially in a beetle). It’s not like it’s a head gasket or something.

I agree with the wtf Vw but like somebody else said, wtf Vw is very common and also the German car experience. German engineering is very true, however it also means over engineered even tho it’s not needed. It’ll all work great, til it doesn’t and you’ll find it’s some random over complicated process/part that does the dumbest thing and causes a big deal in whatever system and will be 3x as expensive as it should be to fix(unless diy).

Anyway, good luck fixing it. I’m sure you’ll definitely enjoy the car when it’s fixed.


----------



## Stu3 (Jul 17, 2012)

jethead102 said:


> You'll be saying wtf for many years to come owning a German car. Comes with the territory. You'll also have an incredibly good ownership and driving experience forany years to come, if you look at it the way the car was designed. Germans take really good care of their stuff and strictly follow the manual, unlike many Americans. They have mechanics, listen to them, and invest in their asset. We tend to want to turn the key and go.
> 
> Are you calling dealerships or indy shops? A good local guy should be OK with installation
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


I am calling local/indy shops. It was an indy shop who told me he would not even consider installing a delete kit for insurance purposes. He makes a good point about liability. I have enjoyed the car and do like the I5 engine. Yes, I had the window regulator and gas gauge all fixed under warranty. 

Even if they did the hack where they install a new pump and remove and install the plate to get it to clear the trans shifter rod, it still looks like a 2 hour (3 tops) job. Let's say the shop rate is $140/hour, that is $400 in labor plus the the part ($400 oem). I am waiting for a quote from Euro Works and they say they install new gaskets on the existing pump. We'll see.

If you remove the batter, isn't there something you have to do to keep the radio alive so it doesn't lock out?


----------



## Stu3 (Jul 17, 2012)

Update... Okay...I took the car outside in the bright sun and looked in where the pump is located. Dry as a bone. If the seals had failed, there would be oil, right? The brakes feel fine today and the "hard brakes pedal" is very rare. So maybe the pump is fine? If it failed, there would be oil. Right?


----------



## JaxPlanet (Sep 17, 2018)

Stu3 said:


> Update... Okay...I took the car outside in the bright sun and looked in where the pump is located. Dry as a bone. If the seals had failed, there would be oil, right? The brakes feel fine today and the "hard brakes pedal" is very rare. So maybe the pump is fine? If it failed, there would be oil. Right?


Not necessarily. A sure indicator of a failed vacuum pump is that it will not pull a vacuum. However, there are several other reasons why a brake pedal can be unusually hard to press so you should read up on them so you can direct your efforts as effectively as possible.

Here are a few articles from a Google search for "hard brake pedal":
https://techtalk.mpbrakes.com/how-to-series/how-to-diagnosing-a-hard-brake-pedal
https://www.safetybrakeandclutch.co.za/2018/05/10/hard-brake-pedal-intermittent-causes-explained/


----------



## nekkidlad (Oct 4, 2013)

Stu3 said:


> Even if they did the hack where they install a new pump and remove and install the plate to get it to clear the trans shifter rod, it still looks like a 2 hour (3 tops) job. Let's say the shop rate is $140/hour, that is $400 in labor plus the the part ($400 oem). I am waiting for a quote from Euro Works and they say they install new gaskets on the existing pump. We'll see.
> 
> If you remove the batter, isn't there something you have to do to keep the radio alive so it doesn't lock out?


It’s called a battery saver, some shops use them some don’t. Sometimes a shop has them and don’t use them amor sometimes the tech forgets or the thing just dies out even if used correctly...Firsthand experience, former Vw tech.

All you’d lose is the radio presets and clock. Some techs will note them down and redo them when done if they don’t have a saver, then reset your clock(assuming they can figure out how to set it, some cars are tricky).



Stu3 said:


> Update... Okay...I took the car outside in the bright sun and looked in where the pump is located. Dry as a bone. If the seals had failed, there would be oil, right? The brakes feel fine today and the "hard brakes pedal" is very rare. So maybe the pump is fine? If it failed, there would be oil. Right?


Take your hand and feel where the pump is, if you have oil residue on you hr hands it’s leaking, even if it’s just a bit, doesn’t have to be soaked in oil. Obviously the amount of oil on your hand will tell you the severity of the leak. (It’s kind of a tight place, be careful and I suggest doing it when the engine is cold so u don’t possibly burn yourself)

Any shop you talk to, even if you prove to them it can be done in 15 mins(and it can be) they’ll probably try to charge you 2-3hrs at least. Just because of the actual time it’s supposed to take them, they’ll tell you even if they charge you half(2-3hrs) it’s a good deal for both of you. I can see a shop saying for liability they won’t delete it, and if you really want to you can get a pump on rock auto(not oe of course) for like $160(might need pump to engine gasket tho, not sure if included...+$5 also on rock auto) take it in and that way you won’t get ripped on the part price or markup.

Much easier and cheaper to go to harbor freight or whatever your favorite tool store is, get yourself a set of cheap tools(3/8” and/or 1/4” ratchet and a set of torx bits and possibly a set of wobble extensions. And a small bright flashlight). and go home and watch a handful of YouTube videos(jetta, golf/rabbit, beetle....all the same engine so it’s the exact same procedure). If you go slow it’ll take you 2 hours, and even after buying tools and a flashlight and possibly some gloves, you still save $300.


----------

