# Megasquirt Project, Attempt #1



## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

As the title states, I'm giving this whole megasquirt thing a go. I'll be running MS-I V2.2 on a 16V, ordered from DIYautotune. They're good guys :thumbup:
I already have almost everything to set this up and run it, as I've been running Digi-II on my 16V for the past year or so.

The assembly is going well, especially as it's my first time assembling a PCB. On to some photos!

Stim assembled:
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/13183134593/" title="IMG_20140313_233637 by dunc12, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3698/13183134593_87f970a812_b.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="IMG_20140313_233637"></a>

And the main board so far:
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/13183299174/" title="IMG_20140315_215539 by dunc12, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7406/13183299174_2b4e9f8089_b.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="IMG_20140315_215539"></a>

Now is where I've run into something of a problem. I can't get Megatune to recognize it, but Tunerstudio works like a charm.

I'm at the point where I'm testing sensor input with the stim, but for some reason, my RPM seems locked at 3000. Turning the pot won't change it. I've done the mods listed on the DIYautotune website for running this on a watercooled VW here: http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_arti..._cooled_vw.htm
Small edit: RPM is back to not being read at all; changing the switch from PNP to NPN doesn't make a difference. 

Should I not have done this yet? Does it make a difference? Hoping an MS guru out there has an easy answer.

Cheers :beer:


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

First things first. Don't waste your time with Megatune, TunerStudio is a MUCH better tuning program and is considered the standard for Megasquirt now.

Second. It doesn't look like the board is even close to finished. Whose build instructions are you following? 

Third. Why did you cheap out and get a V2.2 main board? The extra $50 for a V3.0 kit is worth every penny especially if you want to upgrade processors or add functions later on.


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

Prof315 said:


> First things first. Don't waste your time with Megatune, TunerStudio is a MUCH better tuning program and is considered the standard for Megasquirt now.
> 
> Second. It doesn't look like the board is even close to finished. Whose build instructions are you following?
> 
> Third. Why did you cheap out and get a V2.2 main board? The extra $50 for a V3.0 kit is worth every penny especially if you want to upgrade processors or add functions later on.


1. Yes, I ditched megatune as soon as tunerstudio recognized the board instantly. Haven't touched megatune since.

2. No, the board isn't complete. I'm following the assembly instructions on the mega manual website. I'm at the point where I should be testing sensor input, but I'm not seeing RPM.

3. I'm not intending for this to be a high-hp build or highly technical setup, I was just looking for something cheap and usable to get away from digifant. That being said, hindsight is always 20-20... 

I'm hoping someone has input on my RPM testing issue, I'd like to get that issue sorted before I continue soldering. I'm thinking I'll undo the VW-specific changes suggested by DIYautotune and see if that helps. I'm thinking it was too soon to make those changes.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

The v2.2 board was not meant for spark control, thus it needs mods to do it. The 3.0 board had spark control onboard and is way better. I have a v2.2 board from way back that is modded to control spark and works just fine, but having built 2 other v3 boards for other cars, I would never use anything but a v3 board. And if I remember correctly, my v2.2 board doesn't really respond to the rpm controls on my stim.(I think) It has been awhile since I put it on the stim.


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

ps2375 said:


> The v2.2 board was not meant for spark control, thus it needs mods to do it. The 3.0 board had spark control onboard and is way better. I have a v2.2 board from way back that is modded to control spark and works just fine, but having built 2 other v3 boards for other cars, I would never use anything but a v3 board. And if I remember correctly, my v2.2 board doesn't really respond to the rpm controls on my stim.(I think) It has been awhile since I put it on the stim.


Thanks for the info. I guess my plan of action at this point is to just keep building, seeing as I have sensor input from everything else (besides O2, which is RPM dependent. Might be an issue?) 

Once I finish the board and can confirm it functions properly, I can fiddle with the mods and try to get spark and RPM to work.

Does this sound like a decent plan? :wave:


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Not much else you can do. I would recheck O2 sensor settings and circuit.


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

ps2375 said:


> Not much else you can do. I would recheck O2 sensor settings and circuit.


Slight corretion, I am getting O2 signal, but in a fairly narrow range. I'm assuming I just need to play with the settings and calibration. It is working though. I'll post progress as it comes. Thanks again for the help :thumbup:


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Sounds like it is set as a narrow band.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

I haven't even used a "regular" stim in so long, but it's likely that it only outputs 0-1v. It's worth measuring!


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

Well, bumping this after the project has sat dormant for a little while due to school and such. 

The motor is in the car, mega is in the car and wired up, and the car is ready to fire!

Unfortunately, the ECU doesn't seem to be seeing RPM, so the car will crank but mega won't know that it needs to start. :banghead:

I've followed the mods from here: http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_water_cooled_vw.htm and am using mega to control the stock bosch ICU and in turn, the stock coil. I've got the hall sender hooked up to pin 24, but am getting nothing. Am I missing a step? 

Thanks in advance :thumbup:


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

If you are using jumpers for the vr conditioner make sure you use a 500-1k pullup on the input. Start with pots fully ccw but r56 may need some turns. 

For hall the opto circuit is more robust, its just more work to solder. Tachselect to xg1, opto out to tsel, 1k in r12 position, jmp top c30 to 5v. Hasnt let me down yet.


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

Thanks for the reply :thumbup:

I should have mentioned that I'm running a V2.2 board with megasquirt 1 (MSnS extra code). 

Do I need the pull-up resistor for this setup?


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Sorry didnt scroll up and look!

You need a pullup somewhere. Use the second circuit here: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Ignition_Hardware_Manual.htm#hallV22 low to high for stock hall.


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Sorry didnt scroll up and look!
> 
> You need a pullup somewhere. Use the second circuit here: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Ignition_Hardware_Manual.htm#hallV22 low to high for stock hall.


Thanks! Will try and report back.


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

Tried a couple of different pull-up resistor setups and still couldn't get mega to see any rpm. No change in pulse width or rpm signal. I tried a 1k resistor in line with the 12V source and also tried the resistor across the 12V source and signal wires. 

I've followed the DIYautotune guide for getting spark to work with mega on a VW, but the guide you posted doesn't quite line up with that one:

DIYautotune:
Remove D5, D8, and R10. Also remove the jumper between XG1 and XG2.
Replace D8 with a 1K resistor.
Run a length of wire from XG1 to the right hole of D5.
Run a wire from the bottom hole of R10 to the top of R11.
Run a 750 ohm to 1K, 1/4 watt resistor from the right (5v) side of R23 to the negative (top) leg of D17.
Run a wire from the negative leg of D17 to X11.

MSExtra Guide:
Remove D5, D8, R10
Remove jumper between XG-1, XG-2
Fit wire between XG-1 and right of D5
Fit wire between bottom of R10 and right side of D9
Fit 1K resistor in place of D8


At this point I'm stumped. Another clue could be that my tach gauge on the dash doesn't move as I crank. Does the Hall sensor get 5V or 12V?

Thanks in advance


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

If using either of the above use 5v. 

If you take the center hall wire and tap it to ground fast can you get rpm?


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

need_a_VR6 said:


> If using either of the above use 5v.
> 
> If you take the center hall wire and tap it to ground fast can you get rpm?


I tried powering the hall sender with 5V from the TPS wire. Still no go. Didn't get RPM while tapping the signal wire to ground as fast as I could.

Am I using the correct wire/pin for signal to the board? I'm using what I tested as pin 24, as per the DIYautotune guide (white wire in the shielded black/white wire combo, labelled "CKP+/RPM input").

Thanks for all the help, it is much apprecieted :beer:


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

If tapping ground wont work its the harness or ecu not the hall. 

Double check your mods make sure you removed all required components and installed the correct jumpers. 

Make sure spark is setup for distributor set to msns and no other modes are enabled.


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

need_a_VR6 said:


> If tapping ground wont work its the harness or ecu not the hall.
> 
> Double check your mods make sure you removed all required components and installed the correct jumpers.
> 
> Make sure spark is setup for distributor set to msns and no other modes are enabled.


After inspecting the board and reading through the online guides I've been following, I realized that I had followed the DIYautotune guide assuming that it would set up the board for both spark and hall sender input, while the actual MSnS guide for hall sender input (low to high, 12V output) differs slightly. 

The only mod that the MSnS guide has that the DIYautotune one doesn't is a wire from the bottom of R10 to the right side of D9. Would omitting this wire cause megasquirt to not see RPM? I'll add it tomorrow and see what happens.

edit: After further reading, I realize that the DIYautotune one sets the board up for 5V hall sensor output, but mine seems to be 12V. I'm not sure why it didn't see anything when I tried powering the sensor with 5V, but I guess I'll modify it for 12V output and see if megasquirt will see anything :banghead:


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

Slight update, I changed the hall circuit on the board to the 12V, low to high setup and am still not seeing anything with tapping the signal wire or spinning the dizzy by hand.

I measured the output of the dizzy and with a pullup resistor it went from 0.1V to 2.45V with the supply voltage being 12V. At this point I'm lost. Any suggestions?


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

If you get nothing tapping the signal wite to ground something is up. 

Try jumpering the d5 jumper to ground and see if you get anything. If you do, its a wiring issue. If not keep working on the board.

Feel free to toss up some pics.


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

I tried jumpering the D5 jumper to ground and got the hall sensor output voltage flowing through the ground wire. Should this have happened? 

Also, what should my output voltage be from the hall sensor? Should it be as low as it is (max 2.5V)?

Snapped some photos of the board, let me know if you need to see anything in closer detail. It's set up for a 12V hall sensor right now.

Thanks again :beer:


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Shouldn't the jumper to D8 be on the side that connects with R10 (top)?


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Shouldn't the jumper to D8 be on the side that connects with R10 (top)?


Jumper to D8? I don't have one, I have a jumper from the bottom of R10 to the right side of D9, and I've replaced D8 with a 1K resistor. Should this be different? All per the DIYautotune guide and MSextra guide for 12V hall senser.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Yeah the jumper from 12v to the bottom of the 1k that is jn the d8 spot. I think it should go on the top/r10 side. Otherwise you are not even using the resistor in the circuit


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Yeah the jumper from 12v to the bottom of the 1k that is jn the d8 spot. I think it should go on the top/r10 side. Otherwise you are not even using the resistor in the circuit


I'm having a hard time visualizing what you're describing, so I used MS paint! Tell me if I'm following the thread here. The red line all seems to have continuity, from the bottom of D8 to the right side of D9. Where is this jumper supposed to go?


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Ok gotcha, from the bottom it was hard to tell if it was landed to the bottom of D8 or R10, it's good to go there. 

The next thing to try is jumper the bottom of R11 to ground quickly and see if you see activity. That will jumper the processor pin DIRECTLY to ground, so be careful and do not let it touch anything but ground. If you get pulses the U4 opto is likely damaged or not completely soldered, etc.


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Ok gotcha, from the bottom it was hard to tell if it was landed to the bottom of D8 or R10, it's good to go there.
> 
> The next thing to try is jumper the bottom of R11 to ground quickly and see if you see activity. That will jumper the processor pin DIRECTLY to ground, so be careful and do not let it touch anything but ground. If you get pulses the U4 opto is likely damaged or not completely soldered, etc.


Ah-HA! Action! I briefly jumpered R11 to ground and saw RPM signal jump, fuel pump turned on, etc.

Is this a sign that the U4 opto-isolator is dead? The solder looks good, and I'm fairly sure it's the correct orientation.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Your u4 looks good from here. Likely its bad but may be worth reflowing the solder joints on it first. 

You can bypass it and go processor direct with a series resistor, 330-1k. The only issue is if there is anything over a few volts on there, the processor could be damaged.


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

OK, I'll reflow the solder and see if I get anything. I'd rather not risk not having it and frying my processor. Is there any way to test it? Or is it just a "replace it and see" kind of thing. 

Thanks again :beer:


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

You need to pull it to test it and they're cheap. I usually cut the pins at the chip to remove them. Makes it easier to get the pins out.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

need_a_VR6 said:


> You need to pull it to test it and they're cheap. I usually cut the pins at the chip to remove them. Makes it easier to get the pins out.


And that's why I use DIP sockets on my board builds


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Handy but I have only seen a few go bad. Lots of them with a confirmed "oops."


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Handy but I have only seen a few go bad. Lots of them with a confirmed "oops."


Speaking of test, I re-flowed the solder on U4 and tested again and I'm back to no signal. At least I have a couple new ones in the mail :thumbup: 

Do either of you have any good spark and fuel maps for a mostly stock 2.0 16V? :beer:


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

Progress! ECU is seeing RPM, car is cranking, and it almost runs! 

It will crank and sometimes sputter, but I can't seem to get it to catch. Throttle input doesn't seem to make much difference. I took some logs of me trying to start it which I can post here if it helps to diagnose what I'm doing wrong. My thinking is more fuel, since going to flood-clear mode didn't seem to make a difference. 

Where can I adjust how much fuel is injected during cranking? The article I'm using as a guide refers to a cranking PW table, but all I can find is a priming PW table.

Any input would be appreciated :beer:


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

There should be a cranking PW table. What firmware is this on?


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

need_a_VR6 said:


> There should be a cranking PW table. What firmware is this on?


The latest version of MSnS-extra (029y4a) with the latest free version of TunerStudio. I have seen screenshots of the table but can't seem to find it myself. 

I also ran my fuel calculations again and realized that I might be off by about 50% (~10ms to around ~15ms). I'll change that and try again.

Cheers :beer:


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

So I think I figured out how to adjust the cranking pulse widths. Adjusting the priming pulse curve seems to change the cranking pulse widths. However, playing with the fuel settings doesn't seem to be getting me anywhere. It will still just crank and sputter, but not catch. I'll post some logs below, hopefully someone can tell me if there's something obviously wrong.

I can also take screens of any settings windows that will help diagnose the problem :thumbup:

Thanks again.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Make sure your trigger angle is near 60 and at tdc rotor lines up w notch in the dizzy.


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

It runs! :wave:

...Somewhat. It won't idle, and seems to be crazy rich, but I can seemingly reliably fire it up now after a few cranks. It needs the throttle held to stay running, and the amount of black smoke is impressive, but at least it's progress. The problem appears to have been the way I had wired the injectors. I pulled the plugs and only 1 and 4 had been getting fuel, so I switched it to simultaneous injection with 4 squirts per cycle and it fired right up!

I'm going to post some screenshots of various settings, hopefully you all can tell me where they need adjusting. I took a log of it running, AFRs seemed to get down to 10 at times :sly:

Like I said, it needs some major tuning. I also need to figure out an idle control solution. I have a fast idle valve from an A1 cabriolet that I'm thinking of using.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Change squirts/cycle to 2 and make pwm limit 100%


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Change squirts/cycle to 2 and make pwm limit 100%


Ah-hah! Changing those smoothed it out enough to get it to idle fairly reliably. I used TunerStudio's auto-analyze feature to end up with a pretty solid idle, once I can get it there. It's a bit tricky to get it down to idle without it dying, but once it's there, it stays there pretty reliably. 

However, once I touch the throttle, it will immediately die. I'm thinking I have way too much acceleration enrichment, and it's flooding out as soon as it sees throttle. 

I also have no idea where my advance settings should be, maybe someone can look at them and tell me if I'm somewhat close?

Thanks in advance :beer:


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## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

To get it idling and you initial VE table just turn AE off.

The TPS dot graph looks all messed up. You are basically saying add 15% fuel as long as the throtle position is being increased no matter the rate. I have not tuned AE on my setup yet but the higher the rate you are opening the TB, the more AE you would need. I do not think its a linear relationship but in general you should be able to avoid accel enrichment almost completely by very slowly opening the TB.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

You can turn AE off by making the TPS threshold really high. Agreed that your enrichment numbers are jacked! Start around 2ms at the low end and maybe up to 10ms at the top end for a stock injector.


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

You were right, the AE was at 15ms for any voltage change in the TPS! :what: I lowered it to a more reasonable curve, but also disabled it for the time being.

I didn't get much of a chance to test it, however, because it appears that my cylinder 2 and 3 injectors aren't working. Not a clue why. 

The weather got humid recently, and when I started the car, it had a ton of vibration and read off-the-scale lean. I threw in a new set of plugs and cylinders 1 and 4 were white, while 2 and 3 still looked brand new.

I checked all of the injectors and they were all ~20 ohms. I checked all the injector plugs and they all have at least 12V to one pin, while the other grounds to the correct DB37 connector.

At this point can I assume one of my injector drivers died? What can I check on the board to confirm this?

It never ends with this car...


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

Problem solved :thumbup:

Did some testing and injector bank 2 was only getting an intermittent signal due to some crappy soldering on some pins on U7. Runs and idles well now.

Time to get brave enough for some road tuning :laugh:


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

Bumping this back from the dead, it's time for this project to finally get going. The car has been sitting for about 6 months due to financial and work commitments.

Until now, that is! Pushed it out and charged the battery, and it fired right up :thumbup: Held it at idle with the gas for a minute, then it settled down into a nice idle.

Unfortunately, I'm still plagued with O2 sensor issues. It would seem that either my brand new Bosch LSU 4.2 is dead, or something isn't configured right. It'll run great until the coolant gets warm enough that it transitions to EGO correction. After that, it starts showing some crazy AFR numbers, and idle will start to fluctuate until it dies. 

Any ideas? Really don't want to buy another sensor. :wave:

I can post a log if need be.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

What controller?


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

14point7 Spartan Controller. Any ideas or tips? 

Thanks


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Those dont even cal, they work or dont. Make sure you have it grounded properly.


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Those dont even cal, they work or dont. Make sure you have it grounded properly.


Hmm, ok. I'll check the wiring tomorrow. The odd thing is that it *was* working, so I suppose a connection must have somehow deteriorated. I'll report back.

The help is much appreciated. :beer:


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

No chance to check wiring yet, but as it was working, I fear that the sensor may be dead, or dying. After researching a bit, my logs show symptoms constant with researched symptoms of a dying O2 sensor (indicated AFR staying constant, regardless of RPM or throttle position).

Going back to past logs when problems started arising, the AFR would hover at around 18.5 and stay there, regardless of throttle input or RPM. Now, I'm getting the same issue but the AFR is hovering around 11.5. Throttle movement does nothing to change this.

Thoughts? The whole setup has done 0km and only been run for a few hours.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

I dont remember but does that setup have both wideband and narrowband output? If so double check you are using the right one. 

Generally even a lazy sensor will cal and read ok just be laggy.


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

Well, I'm once again bumping this from the dead. I swapped the O2 sensor and it appeared to fix the issue, until I ended up with a dead battery and went to jump the car.

I hadn't ever thought to look at the voltage in tunerstudio, but with the car running on the jumper cables it ran MUCH smoother than it ever had before. I checked the voltage and it was a solid 14V. I disconnected the cables and it started to run like garbage, and the voltage started jumping all over the place. 

Could this have been the cause of my O2 sensor problems before? 

I swapped my voltage regulator and brushes for some better looking ones I had lying around (not new, or known good) and it made no difference.

Could this be a bad alternator diode? I'll post a photo of my log when I can.

Thanks in advance.


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

Looking for a bit of help once more.

The voltage issue seems to be solved, with a combination of a bad ground and internally shorted battery being the culprits. 

The car is ready to be road tested. My only issue is that it seems to be running incredibly rich. AFR is maxed at 10. What should an acceptable PW table look like at idle for a stock 16V? I'll update this with images and some more info shortly.

Cheers


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Idle ve 30-40 if reqfuel is right


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Idle ve 30-40 if reqfuel is right


Well, here is my req fuel:









And here is my VE table:









Do these look correct? The car seems to run well, but I really can't be sure what it's doing with the AFR reading the way it is.

I appreciate the help :thumbup:


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

Well, the car drives! ...And much better than I thought it would, to be honest. 

I still don't seem to have accurate AFR readings so I'm not sure what the motor is really doing, but I was able to fairly reliably cruise around to test things out, and then make the trek to my new house.

It never died, temps were good, and it seemed to have decent power (no AE tuned in yet though), although I generally kept it below 3500rpm. I'll post my log files and tune when I get a chance.

The only oddity besides the AFR readings is the warm-up behavior. It'll bounce and sputter and almost die for about 5 minutes when cold (with throttle held), then suddenly settle into a solid idle with no throttle needed. Not sure if my settings need adjusting, but I'd say "yes".

Thanks for reading.


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

Bumping this for the fall, any insight? Would posting my ignition map help? 

Cheers


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Post links to the tune and logs. Msruns.com allows you to attach. Just link your thread.


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## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

Why dont you have accurate AFR readings?


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Post links to the tune and logs. Msruns.com allows you to attach. Just link your thread.


MSRuns won't let me sign up with any of my current email addresses (gmail, yahoo, outlook, etc) so I've linked a dropbox folder with the files here. I've included my .msq file and the most pertinent log from when it was last driven.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/tpm29zemguzhtuk/AABRPXgHlmBLqtTbq1dQJKnOa?dl=0

Looking forward to your analysis, I'd love to drive this thing daily again.

Cheers umpkin:


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

Drove it around the block today. 

Thinking that the O2 sensor might be functioning after all; while it was warming up I saw the AFR start to rise from 10 to 11.5 or so as the ASE tapered off, but after that it ended up stuck at 10 again.

Could I just have way too much fuel? 

Anyone glanced at the tune file? 

Cheers


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## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

dunc12 said:


> Drove it around the block today.
> 
> Thinking that the O2 sensor might be functioning after all; while it was warming up I saw the AFR start to rise from 10 to 11.5 or so as the ASE tapered off, but after that it ended up stuck at 10 again.
> 
> ...


Its very possible that you have too much fuel.


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

lorge1989 said:


> Its very possible that you have too much fuel.


What's the best way to play with this? Should I lower the req_fuel or do it in the VE table?

Cheers


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Set your req_fuel to an accurate number based on injector and engine size, etc. Get the car warmed up and use VE to adjust accordingly.


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Set your req_fuel to an accurate number based on injector and engine size, etc. Get the car warmed up and use VE to adjust accordingly.


Roger that. It's currently sitting at 15ms using the calculator built into Tunerstudio. 2 squirts per cycle at 7.5ms per squirt, simultaneous injection.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Also don't use 2 squirts simultaneous, 1 simultaneous or 2 alternating. Anything else increases dead time and reduces how much you can get out of your injectors.


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## dunc12 (Jan 24, 2011)

I'll play with the settings and report back.

I've been driving the car some and have come to the conclusion that something isn't correctly set up with the O2 sensor. It reads 10:1 no matter what I do, even on decel. I tried lowering the VE table idle bins while it was idling, and nothing changed.

Also, it sounds like it starts to break up whenever I try to reach higher RPMs. Is my timing too advanced? Or not enough?

Thanks umpkin:

edit: And roughly what should my pulse widths be under harder acceleration?


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

dunc12 said:


> I'll play with the settings and report back.
> 
> I've been driving the car some and have come to the conclusion that something isn't correctly set up with the O2 sensor. It reads 10:1 no matter what I do, even on decel. I tried lowering the VE table idle bins while it was idling, and nothing changed.
> 
> ...


Probably too much fuel


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## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

dunc12 said:


> I'll play with the settings and report back.
> 
> I've been driving the car some and have come to the conclusion that something isn't correctly set up with the O2 sensor. It reads 10:1 no matter what I do, even on decel. I tried lowering the VE table idle bins while it was idling, and nothing changed.
> 
> ...


Like the other guy said, once you get your req fuel value correct it should never change. And your pulsewidth will depend on fuel type, injector size, rail pressure displacement and other specifics of your engine. Once the car is warm you should be able to let it idle, or sit at any constant RPM/pressure so you are in one box on the VE table. Adjust that VE value only until your AFR gauges read back what you want (14.7 for pretty much everything in lower RPM and load under 100 kpa). You should be able to get a decent value, then do that again for a few other cells in the VE table. Even after you have a couple cells populated your can extrapolate to a lot of the other cells, just to get in the ball park. 

Ideally you would have a dyno or street tune the car with a helpful passenger. On the street you need to use the gas and the brake at the same time to reach different pressures at different RPMs. Try to hold the car at a constant RPM and pressue, zero in on your VE value that gives you the AFR you want and move on to another cell.


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