# Sleeper build, round 2



## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Today, I went to the port in Baltimore and picked up my much loved A3. For those of you not familiar, I bought the car new in 2012 in Germany while living overseas, and had a blast with it. Fast forward over three years later, and it's starting a new life on a new continent. In honor of that, and to clean up a thread that was a bit messy at times, I'm starting a new one. It really is going to be completely different. I've got a bunch of plans in store for the littlest Audi available in North America, we'll see what comes to fruition. If you don't care or already read my previous thread (available here) go ahead and skip to post number two. If not, here's a not so concise guide to the timeline. 

Like I said, I bought the car in 2012 in Germany. Picked it up at the port in Bremerhaven and drove it for a good portion of the break-in mileage back to the Netherlands, where I was living at the time. A couple of pics from what it looked like new:



















When I decided to start modding the car, I skipped all of the normal steps that people go through. I never got new wheels (I'm still running the stock ones) and didn't slam it with coilovers or bags. (BTW, bags are for groceries. Sorry for anyone that likes 'em, but I think they're silly.) No, I went full throttle for an APR Stage 3 kit, just over a year after getting the car:










And the dyno sheet. Right at 380hp at the crank. Not too bad, but needs more, which is why I'm doing this. 

The next mods I did were the HPA core interlock mount (aka dogbone mount) and their 3-setting haldex controller. Haldex went through the rear cargo area where the battery cable would go if I had a 3.2










I soon realized that I really needed some help in the braking department; at this point I was still running the factory setup. I initially went with stoptech rotors, brake lines, ATE super blue fluid, stoptech pads, and the tyrolsport caliper stiffening kit.










Then, I finally got smart and started adjusting the suspension. I went with VWR springs and Audi TT rear spring perch mounts over stock dampners at first. The ride was lower and stiffer, but I still had what I can only describe as a vague steering feel in the corners, plus the well documented understeer that plagues this forum. 

Lowered, it looks better, and from the outside, this is still how it looks today:










I also had issues with the transmission; when I would hit peak boost on the car at peak RPM (7k on the tune I had), the TCU would force an upshift that would then cause a drastic reduction in RPMs, leading to boost loss then a jerk back forward as I went for peak boost again. Enter HPA. At the time, they were basically the only company offering a DSG tune and, IMO, they've still got it handled really well. 










I also got more serious about suspension, and started getting some better supporting mods. This was in the fall of 2013. 

I added the tyrolsport subframe kit, the 034 motorsport strut mounts, Audi TT control arm bushings, bilstein B8 sprint shocks and adjustable end links, as well as aluminum control arms, and H&R adjustable rear sway bar.





































I also got more serious about braking, and added the tyrolsport MC bracket and porsche / brembo calipers upfront with new stoptech pads. 










I also added wheel studs and spacers while I was at it. 










Then I did a few small things, like throw in an O2 spacer for an irritating readiness fault I kept getting because of the downpipe, and add a magnetic drain plug. 










With all these things sorted, I turned my attention to the overall driving experience. I really love the DSG transmission, but having only the "slap shift" method of shifting left me wanting more. So after a lot of research and prep, I was able to install and code a full MFSW retrofit with paddles. :heart:










I also got around to doing a catch can install in prep for a new, bigger intercooler.










I also did a DV relocate with some OEM wire, some parts from the unitronic kit, and a little bit of ingenuity. I had a few goodies waiting for install but ran out of time before life got in the way. I had to pack up and leave Europe last month, with quite a few things left unfinished. Then, right after I had all of my stuff picked up (including my tools), I had yet another leak on the oil feed line to the turbo. Some of you know about all the problems I had with those... most of the APR kit is pretty good and the tune is solid, but those oil lines are hot garbage. I had just replaced the return line, and then the feed line went. I wish I had a pic of what it looked like off the car; people would be shocked at the (lack of) quality. 

I ended up calling around to local tuning shops for help with only 2 weeks before the car was going to be shipped. Nobody local could help, and I ended up taking the car to a shop 3 hours away in Germany. The shop had a good rep with other military guys who were stationed in that area, and Jason, one of the workers there, assured me that it would be no problem. He originally attempted to get another APR line, and after finding out the cost, he opted to take the line off the car and take it to a local race boutique that preps various rally and GT cars. They made a one-off that is seriously awesome. I didn't have time to snap pics, but next chance I have to get under the car and get a good shot, I will. The total cost, including labor, came out to less than what APR quoted for the line. I was seriously happy, and would recommend Jason and his shop to anyone travelling in Southwest Germany. 

Thus ends this huge post, and the story of my build up till now. This thread will probably update pretty slow; I've got a new baby on the way and he's already eating into my car budget, but I've juggled some things and have parts on hand that I haven't installed yet, plus some pretty radical ideas of where to take the car in terms of getting it "finished". For those of you that read this far, thanks, and for everyone, stay tuned.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

For those of you that skipped to here, that's cool too. It was too dark to take pics after getting the car back to my house, but it's still got all the shipping stickers, no plates, and everything. I still don't have the final customs document I need to get the car titled and registered. The looks I got on the freeway with no plates on the car, and yellow Dutch plates in the front and rear windshield were comical, to say the least. I'll get a pic up tomorrow in this spot to show off the "new" starting point.


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## beringela001 (Dec 5, 2014)

Awesome build process man. I'm doing a sleeper as well, fsi though (06) which sits At 140k miles now on a stage 2+ on a k03. Once I see the engine starting to let it go I will be deciding if I go big turbo or get the best I can from a k04 setup with proper internals and supporting mods.

Suspensions I only did sway bars and I have not touched braking yet..., did the same changes to rotors, line but didn't get the stiffening kit for the caliper because decided to look into the 986 non S like you got.
Do you feel break bias was affected? Was braking improved significantly or more the feel of braking improved (on stock the car can get a little wobbly on the back on hard braking if you above 100... - I do some tracking here and there) I'm looking to improve that and improve braking distance as well.

Let me know your feedback on it bro. Still deciding on going the Porsche or a stoptech 328mm bbk since they can that their caliper don't change brake bias and what not....

Congrats again. List of improvements looks dead on (for my sleeper eyes lol)

Paulo.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

Enjoyed the original build thread, and reading through this one so far  Congrats on the upcoming addition to the family...I am in the same boat...expecting our first in February  I am trying to get all of my last minute modding done before the end of the year! Looking forward to seeing what you have in store for your A3 :thumbup:


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## AngryGiraffe (Sep 21, 2014)

Love this car! Can't wait to see where you take it from here. What did you do with the 30's frame you had( I'm pretty sure it was you):screwy: glad to have another Monza in the states.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

beringela001 said:


> Let me know your feedback on it bro. Still deciding on going the Porsche or a stoptech 328mm bbk since they can that their caliper don't change brake bias and what not....


AFAIK there's no bias issue with the boxster brake setup. Bias changes have to do with how much fluid is displaced in the front vs the rear, so you could theoretically have a six piston or even 8 piston setup without bias issues as long as the caliper uses the same amount of fluid to displace the pistons. Where people get into trouble is putting on something like TTRS calipers, which are much bigger and have a lot more fluid displacement, and then they don't touch the rears. 



AngryGiraffe said:


> Love this car! Can't wait to see where you take it from here. What did you do with the 30's frame you had( I'm pretty sure it was you) glad to have another Monza in the states.


Thanks. I still have the rolling chassis for the '32 Ford. I've actually never seen it; it was made in the US and shipped to my sister's house for safekeeping. Her husband and I are going to build it together.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Welcome to the area Nick!! Can't wait to see your car. Also, depending on how you drive, just know that driving in Fairfax County can be nerve racking with all the cops. It's well known that it is probably the worse in the area. 



TBomb said:


> Congrats on the upcoming addition to the family...I am in the same boat...expecting our first in February


Congrats bro!!

Looks like you both need to look at the car seat thread soon!


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

krazyboi said:


> Congrats bro!!
> 
> Looks like you both need to look at the car seat thread soon!



Thanks JT! Crazy times  I was looking at the Recaro kiddo seat...just need to convince my wife that I need a set to go with it


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Yeah, thanks. I already have a car seat; wife is due next month. 

Luckily I don't have to drive through/into Fairfax County often.


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## CorrieG60 (Jan 18, 2004)

Nice build!!

Where in the Netherlands did you live?
I'm from the Netherlands!!


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

CorrieG60 said:


> Nice build!!
> 
> Where in the Netherlands did you live?
> I'm from the Netherlands!!


Like two ships in the night..


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## CarNut84GTi (Oct 2, 2002)

Love performance oriented builds :thumbup:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

CorrieG60 said:


> Nice build!!
> 
> Where in the Netherlands did you live?
> I'm from the Netherlands!!


I used to live in Limburg, near Maastricht.



CarNut84GTi said:


> Love performance oriented builds :thumbup:


Thanks. Looking to sponsor any A3s? 

I realize I should've added a pic today, but things got crazy around here. Movers are bringing all of our stuff (finally) on Monday and I was trying to get everything ready for that. Will get a few pics up tomorrow for sure.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

Hey, so I was curious to know...since you bought the car in Germany while living in the Netherlands, but I assume knowing at some point you would be returning to the US, did you have to buy a US spec car? It certainly appears to be...LHD, MPH in speedo, orange corner markers in the headlights...if so, how does that work with being able to drive a US spec car over in Europe for such an extended period of time?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

TBomb said:


> Hey, so I was curious to know...since you bought the car in Germany while living in the Netherlands, but I assume knowing at some point you would be returning to the US, did you have to buy a US spec car? It certainly appears to be...LHD, MPH in speedo, orange corner markers in the headlights...if so, how does that work with being able to drive a US spec car over in Europe for such an extended period of time?


Well, it's all a bit convoluted, but I bought the car from a company called AutoExchange that has now changed their name to Military Auto Source. As you can guess, they specialize in selling cars to servicemembers overseas. There are a few companies that do this, and each one specializes in different makes. These guys used to only do Audi, VW, and Toyota, but now they do several other brands as well. 

Anyway, I ordered the car with the options I wanted (sort of...) like I wanted quattro and DSG, but I also wanted sport seats, however, I wanted them to be manually adjustable, which wasn't an option with sport seats, and so I got less bolstering in exchange for dropping 50lbs of seat motor weight off the car. I got the CW package, but couldn't get NAV unless I also got a sunroof, which I didn't want, also because of more weight and less rigidity. So I compromised and got what I got. 

To answer your question, yes, it is a US spec car. As part of the Status of Forces Agreement (SoFA), service members in Europe may own and operate up to two US spec cars *while serving in Europe on military orders*. This comes back to bite some people who decide to retire and stay in Europe, but I digress. So then I also got to buy the car tax free, and when you return, depending on what state you register in, it remains so, which is nice. So when shipping it back, you then have to go through the customs process, but having a CARB compliant sticker on the car helps. 

So I have ownership / customs docs in the Netherlands and the US for our cars, which is kind of weird.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

And because I didn't want the above explanation mixed in with my "update", here's the pics I promised.

This is how I drove back from the port. I even had a cop behind me at one point. Surprised I didn't get pulled over. Maybe they're used to seeing it. 










The customs and shipping labels are still on the car:










When you ship your car, it has to have less than 1/4 tank. I decided that since it hadn't really been driven for a while and sat with old gas, I would add some of this at the fill up before the drive from Baltimore back to the DC area:










Lastly, here it is from the front. Maybe you all can help with a small decision I'm trying to make. The sticker in the windshield on the passenger side is from Germany; it's basically like a consumption tax sticker that you need to be able to drive in certain cities in Germany. I'm trying to decide whether to remove it or leave it there. I think it's a little unique to the car and adds to it's history, but it's also, you know, an ugly sticker.


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## AngryGiraffe (Sep 21, 2014)

What do you think of the HPA dog bone mount? Is it worth the extra money? I've noticed that it's quite a bit more expensive than some of the other mounts out there.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

AngryGiraffe said:


> What do you think of the HPA dog bone mount? Is it worth the extra money? I've noticed that it's quite a bit more expensive than some of the other mounts out there.


TBH, I got it for free; they threw it into a package deal because I bought the haldex controller and DSG tune at the same time. I don't know how the other inserts are, but the HPA mount is a full replacement instead of an insert, if that makes a difference. I actually really like it a lot, but it does add NVH. 

In my mind, I would probably opt for a replacement style mount anyway. So that would leave the HPA mount, VWR mount, or 034 mount as options.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Great thread, looking forward to the continuous updates.

I vote you keep the sticker until it fades. I think it's neat.


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## CarNut84GTi (Oct 2, 2002)

npace said:


> I used to live in Limburg, near Maastricht.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Haha, yes, mine! . But on a serious note, I don't handle sponsorships, if you were interested in something like that, you would have to submit an application.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*A small update*

As some of you know, I'm a little unhappy with the fitment of the Ground Control coilovers on the ohlins suspension. This is part of the reason that I haven't finished installing all of my suspension items and moved forward. Well, here's the problem:










As you can see, the lower collars don't fit at all. I reached out to a few others who have a similar setup (JRutter, Ceese, JBrehm) and they also had mixed feelings about the GC setup. I'm happy with the springs, and love the fact that they let me specify spring rates for the car. Also, I want to note here that I'm not in anyway complaining about GC as a company. They produce really nice products and have been awesome to deal with. I reached out to them and sent them pics, and I expect an answer back soon on either getting some good shims, new collars, or both. 

One of the issues I had was that I didn't have access to a digital caliper until recently (today). My $70 craftsman one from sears broke, and I was too lazy to order a new one since I wasn't really needing it. So I stopped by Advance Auto parts and got the car craft one you see in the pics below.

It's hard to see, but the Ohlins strut is 53.90mm in diameter










The collars are 56.40mm in diameter










And the threaded sleeves are 55.25mm. So, with that in mind, I hope they get back to me soon on getting some better fitting collars and some shims for the front tubes. Otherwise, I'm going to have to go to a machine shop and get some collars made. 

That's all for now, but I should have some more / better updates in the near future.


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## cleanA3 (Jun 23, 2007)

Car is looking tuff love what you are doing


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)




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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Lol. ^^^ that Joker GIF is creepy.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

npace said:


> As some of you know, I'm a little unhappy with the fitment of the Ground Control coilovers on the ohlins suspension. This is part of the reason that I haven't finished installing all of my suspension items and moved forward. Well, here's the problem:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Soo...I'm having difficulty envisioning where those collars go.  They have notches like they are supposed to be spun or tightened, but I don't see any threads in them. What am I missing here?


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## PhunkFX (Feb 22, 2002)

As far as the brakes go... what can be obtained in the form of OEM+ for upgrades? R32 brakes?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

TBomb said:


> Soo...I'm having difficulty envisioning where those collars go.  They have notches like they are supposed to be spun or tightened, but I don't see any threads in them. What am I missing here?


Not sure, but that's how they came. The threaded sleeves sit on top of those collars, and then there are threaded collars that the springs set on. 
You can see on JRutter's car how they sit (I hope he doesn't mind me borrowing the pic):









And Jbrehm had to machine a custom collar for his:









I don't have the resources or skill to fab my own collars, and thought that the gap was unacceptable and probably not the intent behind the design of the ground control kit; which is why I am in contact with them now to see about replacement collars and sleeves (or shims). 



PhunkFX said:


> As far as the brakes go... what can be obtained in the form of OEM+ for upgrades? R32 brakes?


You could go that route, but I wouldn't recommend it for fronts. I do plan on upgrading the rears on my car to R32 brakes. The reason for not going that way on the front is that it is the same single piston design as our brakes, just a little bigger. So pedal feel won't change, and I doubt the stopping distance would really change, either. The rears are the same design as well, but you get a vented rotor, which will help reduce brake fade and give more consistent stopping over time. Porsche is owned by VW, so in my mind it's an OEM+ upgrade, but if you want to keep it audi, it is possible to go to S3, RS4, or TTRS calipers. It's all a matter of getting the right bracket.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Just a quick update.... super excited that I got my license and registration in the mail yesterday. Car is fully legit now. Also, I wanted some input on an idea for the interior that I have that I'm not sure about. Usually, I just go with my gut, but this is what I'm considering:

Thinking about swapping to a black carpet, black lower trim pieces (pillars, center console, etc) and this for seats:










I like the look of the interlagos, and these allow me to retain heated seats and manual seat controls, plus they're cloth and there won't be any pleather / vinyl / leatherette cracking. These also have better bolstering than my comfort seats. (That was the main thing I hated when I ordered this car, to get sport seats I had to get electric seat adjustment and a sun roof). 

Anyway, I'm on the fence. On the one hand, I think it would look good, but on the other, it's putting vw stuff in my (admittedly very similar) audi.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

Those seats are legit if you want the cloth. I don't mind the VW tie-in at all, personally.


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

I really don't remember what I did for those collars! I also won't be pulling my suspension apart for a while since someone backed into me and destroyed my S3 bumper...not going to refresh the suspension until I have the new body parts.

There is a low-mileage set of TT-RS calipers and rotors on the R32 Parts facebook group for a great deal - $900 IIRC! I like my 17Z and 2-piece rotor setup, but that's a helluva a price for a much-improved, bolt-on setup.

Screw those GTI seats - get something a little more sophisticated for the A3! My S4 seats a suuuuper nice on long drives. :laugh:


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## AngryGiraffe (Sep 21, 2014)

jbrehm said:


> Screw those GTI seats - get something a little more sophisticated for the A3! My S4 seats a suuuuper nice on long drives.


:thumbup:
I mean hey if you got the money and the time I would go this or the S5 route for sure.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

Recaros are nice!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Thanks for the input. I'll probably see if I can find some light grey or silver audi recaros that match.... it's difficult finding a set of non-motorized seats that are heated that I can swap in. I just thought the GTI seats look cool and had a little better bolstering than my comfort seats, plus they have heat. 

For the collars, I got the new ones in from ground control today, so I'll see how they fit and post some pics in a little while. I have a few other thoughts on how to make that setup a little better, so once I get it together and finish off the suspension, I'll post up and let everyone know.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

npace said:


> Thanks for the input. I'll probably see if I can find some light grey or silver audi recaros that match.... it's difficult finding a set of non-motorized seats that are heated that I can swap in. I just thought the GTI seats look cool and had a little better bolstering than my comfort seats, plus they have heat.
> 
> For the collars, I got the new ones in from ground control today, so I'll see how they fit and post some pics in a little while. I have a few other thoughts on how to make that setup a little better, so once I get it together and finish off the suspension, I'll post up and let everyone know.


I like the Interlagos...in a GTI...but if you like the seats you could always go that route and then possibly get them re-covered later on if you want them to match your interior. It would probably be less than tracking down a set of OEM Recaros. Or you could just get some Recaro Sportster CS's and bolt them in :thumbup:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

TBomb said:


> I like the Interlagos...in a GTI...but if you like the seats you could always go that route and then possibly get them re-covered later on if you want them to match your interior. It would probably be less than tracking down a set of OEM Recaros. Or you could just get some Recaro Sportster CS's and bolt them in :thumbup:


What about the airbag and occupancy sensors? I'm not really concerned about having an airbag, but I don't need a warning light.


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## AngryGiraffe (Sep 21, 2014)

npace said:


> In my mind, I would probably opt for a replacement style mount anyway. So that would leave the HPA mount, VWR mount, or 034 mount as options.


Yeah I was planning on doing the full replacement instead of just the insert. What stiffness did you go with? HPA recremends the 90 for our cars, but I think the NVH might be a little to much. I was thinking about getting the softest one(75) I figure it would still be much better than the stock dogbone mount and wouldn't be as harsh as the 90. From what I've read the 034 is really bad when it comes to NVH. I havent heard much about the VWR one.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

I have the 75, and it adds plenty NVH. A lot of GTI and golf R guys run the VWR one. Both that and the 034 one have an option to replace the upper and the lower dogbone mount, but that's pretty involved as you have to remove the subframe. I think the 75 will get you to where you want.


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## AngryGiraffe (Sep 21, 2014)

Thanks for the info. I saw the install on the 034 and it looked pretty fun/easy to do. I think I will go with the softest available by HPA


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

The HPA ones are nice. If you haven't done it yet, I would also do one of the subframe deadset kits.

For anyone interested, I got the new collars for my struts in from ground control. They have a 54mm inner diameter, and fit perfect. What's really nice is there is a snap ring on the ohlins struts. With the new collars, the snap ring fits just above where the collars sit, and it basically keeps the collar in place. I don't know if you can really see the snap ring, but here's a pic:










So no more gap, no more worries about the collar riding up on the strut over bumps, etc. 

Also, got my license plates in from Washington. I'm legit now.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

npace said:


> The HPA ones are nice. If you haven't done it yet, I would also do one of the subframe deadset kits.


If you have to drop the subframe for any reason (front sway bar install, dogbone mount install, etc.) I would go ahead and do the subframe deadset kit at the same time and kill 2 birds with 1 stone :thumbup:


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

Collars look good.


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## cleanA3 (Jun 23, 2007)

I have been running the hpa blue lower mount. Which I think is the 90a one. Yes it adds a lot of NVH but man the dsg shifts on point.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

So this project may be on a slight hiatus for a while... my son was born last week and I seriously don't know if I'm ever going to sleep again, let alone work on the car. Today I re-installed my catch can setup; it was the only thing I took off the car before I shipped it because I wasn't sure if it would pass through customs like that. I also have some quotes for a bottom end build.... decided I don't have the expertise to tackle that myself (yet) and should get someone who's done this to tackle it. I'll probably get that done Jan/Feb of next year. 

Parts I have waiting:

1. RS3 master cylinder
2. new custom intake
3. IE intake manifold
4. Ohlins suspension / coilover setup
5. Maintenance crap (fuel filter, oil filter and oil, new plugs, etc.)

I'm also going to get the R32 rear brake setup, and I won't get around to the mc until that's done.

So that's it.... sorry for the mediocre update.


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

npace said:


> my son was born last week and I seriously don't know if I'm ever going to sleep again,
> 
> So that's it.... sorry for the mediocre update.


best update ever! CONGRATS ON THE BABY!!!:beer::beer::beer::beer:

When I first got my A3, my newborn boy was in a backwards facing car seat... Now hes in just the booster, just started first grade with a missing tooth grin, and BEGGING to sit up front with me!!! (needs to grow a bit more for that).

They grow up fast!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

SilverSquirrel said:


> best update ever! CONGRATS ON THE BABY!!!:beer::beer::beer::beer:
> 
> When I first got my A3, my newborn boy was in a backwards facing car seat... Now hes in just the booster, just started first grade with a missing tooth grin, and BEGGING to sit up front with me!!! (needs to grow a bit more for that).
> 
> They grow up fast!


Thanks! Don't get me wrong, I'm super stoked on having the little guy around, and I'm really excited about when he gets a little older. My wife rolled her eyes at me the other day when she asked me what I was looking at on the computer and I replied with "go kart plans"


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

npace said:


> Thanks! Don't get me wrong, I'm super stoked on having the little guy around, and I'm really excited about when he gets a little older. My wife rolled her eyes at me the other day when she asked me what I was looking at on the computer and I replied with "go kart plans"


Haha! Congrats man! Hope everyone made it here safely and healthy :beer:


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

Congrats! Careful though, our son liked the A3 so much, we had to get another one!


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## easthk (Oct 10, 2004)

the Ohlin setup sure sounds complicated. Could always sell em and get KW's, job done. 

Note on KW's for A3 quattro: get the 15mm or 30mm rear spacer to avoid rubbing. Even on highest setting the rear tends to rub on dips (depends on tire/wheel combo too), spacers minimize rub. I have 30mm, wish I got 15mm for optimum stance, but still happy with setup after 2 years.


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## easthk (Oct 10, 2004)

Congrats on the kiddo, btw - they are awesome - mine just turned 1 and he digs anything with wheels


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

easthk said:


> the Ohlin setup sure sounds complicated. Could always sell em and get KW's, job done.
> 
> Note on KW's for A3 quattro: get the 15mm or 30mm rear spacer to avoid rubbing. Even on highest setting the rear tends to rub on dips (depends on tire/wheel combo too), spacers minimize rub. I have 30mm, wish I got 15mm for optimum stance, but still happy with setup after 2 years.


Sounds like the springs are spec'd for FWD. Extra weight of drive shaft and rear diff compress it farther. Probably best to inquire about rear springs with higher rate.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

easthk said:


> the Ohlin setup sure sounds complicated. Could always sell em and get KW's, job done.
> 
> Note on KW's for A3 quattro: get the 15mm or 30mm rear spacer to avoid rubbing. Even on highest setting the rear tends to rub on dips (depends on tire/wheel combo too), spacers minimize rub. I have 30mm, wish I got 15mm for optimum stance, but still happy with setup after 2 years.


I don't know that it's complicated, per say, but it requires some research and knowledge if you want a truly custom setup that is suited to you. I went this route because I wanted to have adjustable dampening, and ride height, and be able to specify the spring rates as needed. JRutter, JBrehm, and ceese all went the ohlins route before I did, and all raved about the relative comfort compared to other coilover setups as well as the handling improvements. I still haven't installed these yet because now I'm waiting on some helper springs for the front. 

Also, I don't think you can get these anymore without them coming as a complete coilover. They don't sell the struts/shocks in this form on the ohlins USA website anymore, only as a coilover. I had to find mine used, and was lucky enough to get them from a friendly Canadian who parted out his Mk5 GTI and went with a scion frs. 

Ponto, you know him? ^^^^ :wave:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Not a huge update; the newborn and new assignment in the US have been keeping me more than busy. But I did get this done earlier in the week:










It's a custom intake I had 42dd make me, and it is awesome. I wanted to get some impressions before I shared it here. This thing is incredibly well-built, and I would recommend 42dd for anyone in the market for an intake. Behind the air filter, there is a huge velocity stack, which should help with air flow. 

As far as actual results: The first thing is that the intake itself adds noise; I can hear the air coming in more than I could with the carbonio and the exhaust noise is louder when I step on it. 

I also ran some logs with the MAF to see what, if any difference there was. No dyno, but there is no noticeable loss in power according to the butt-meter. MAF readings show a steady flow of air consistent with what is necessary to run the GT28 turbo. No issues here, and to be honest, I was nervous about this part. My thought was that the ram-style of the carbonio would yield much better results, forcing me to go back to that, but the before and after MAF readings remained the same. 

This setup does have one advantage over the carbonio for dsg owners. The stock airbox routes some of the air back over the dsg oil cooler, while the carbonio hogs everything coming in through the grill opening. This intake leaves some space that allows air into the bay, providing some cooling benefits. The other thing I like is the space for the overflow coolant hose. The carbonio just lets it hang underneath, while this routes it nicely out of the way. 

Anyway, that's it for now, thanks for reading. I'll have another update soon for the PCV and a few other engine related items, probably this weekend. After that, sometime early next year, I expect the bottom-end build to happen.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

opcorn:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Did a few things today to continue my slow progress. 

First, I finished my PCV / catch can setup. Some of you may remember my old setup, which was basically the same as this but I retained the stock PCV. After listening to the Humble Mechanic talk about frequent PCV fails on TSI engines, and the subsequent failure of the rear main seal, I decided to head off any issues and replace the PCV. I went with the IE one, mostly for looks, and because you can order it separate from a complete setup. I also went ahead and used a new OEM gasket, because I didn't want to take any chances and I figured that it couldn't hurt. 

Here's the new one with new gasket installed:









Since I'm sticking with a VTA catch can, I went ahead and capped off the return side of the new PCV:









Here's basically everything off during the swap. You can also see where the PCV gasket had to be trimmed to accommodate the IE one:









Looking into the head with the PCV off, I was pleased with how clean everything looked, including the oil:









I also took the opportunity to clean the catch can; it was pretty clogged up:









Lastly, I replaced the Cam position sensor, as the old one was leaking oil. It would've been nice to be able to just get a new o-ring, as that's where the problem was, but audi/vw doesn't sell it. The new one definitely fit tighter when I pushed it in, but time will tell if it completely stops the leak. In the meantime, I'll take the old o-ring and start looking for a good alternative. 

I also replaced the IE vent on the catch can with a larger one I had laying around. The IE PCV is less restrictive, and since more gasses are going to the can without being recirculated, I thought a larger filter was in order to allow more to escape. The stock fitting was also replaced with one to fit the IE PCV. That's about it, and here's everything all buttoned up:









I also ordered some last suspension bits so I can get going on that during my break coming up in December. As I get more work done, I'll keep you all posted.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Nice work man, keep it up!


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## mfractal (May 16, 2005)

Great work buddy! 

Quick question , how much of an improvement does the tyrolsport master cylinder kit offer? 

Sent from my XT1572 using Tapatalk


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

The tyrolsport bracket takes up some of the slack, so the pedal travel when braking is a little shorter. It's more for feel, than anything else, IMO. It won't improve your braking distances or anything, but I'm in the "every little bit helps" camp.


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## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

On the topic of brake feel, I recently had to replace my abs module. When I was coding the new module I noticed there was a setting I could change called "brake assist". I don't know if my original module had this setting but you can set it to high and it causes the brakes to bite sooner in the pedal travel. I am so glad I found it.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

I noticed the module in VCDS, but was afraid to mess with the coding. I assume you changed the setting to "low" is that right?


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## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

High is the desired setting. Low causes the pedal to bite lower than normal aka you push the pedal further for it to do anything. Setting it to high causes the brakes to bite at about one inch of travel. I always felt this car had a long brake pedal travel prior. I highly suggest changing the setting.

Edit: I might be wrong that low causes a lower engagement, but I am positive setting it to high causes the brakes to engage very early in the pedal travel. Low could mean slightly earlier than stock. I tried low went for a spin, then tried high and was very impressed.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

louiekaps said:


> High is the desired setting. Low causes the pedal to bite lower than normal aka you push the pedal further for it to do anything. Setting it to high causes the brakes to bite at about one inch of travel. I always felt this car had a long brake pedal travel prior. I highly suggest changing the setting.
> 
> Edit: I might be wrong that low causes a lower engagement, but I am positive setting it to high causes the brakes to engage very early in the pedal travel. Low could mean slightly earlier than stock. I tried low went for a spin, then tried high and was very impressed.


WAIT WAIT WAIT... WAT. 

You can adjust pedal travel with vag-com?!?!?!?! I NEED THIS


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

louiekaps said:


> On the topic of brake feel, I recently had to replace my abs module. When I was coding the new module I noticed there was a setting I could change called "brake assist". I don't know if my original module had this setting but you can set it to high and it causes the brakes to bite sooner in the pedal travel. I am so glad I found it.


can you show a vcds screenshot of the setting? channel info etc?


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## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

Ponto, us facelift guys have mk60ec1 abs. Prefacelift just had mk60. Not sure if that was added for our revision. I will take a snapshot soon

Go into abs(03) - adaptation(10) - channel 09 brake assist - set to 2 aka high


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Thanks Lou. I always get the low / high thing mixed up with VCDS.... it's not exactly intuitive.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

louiekaps said:


> Ponto, us facelift guys have mk60ec1 abs. Prefacelift just had mk60. Not sure if that was added for our revision. I will take a snapshot soon
> 
> Go into abs(03) - adaptation(10) - channel 09 brake assist - set to 2 aka high


Any pre-facelift guys looked into this yet? opcorn:


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

TBomb said:


> Any pre-facelift guys looked into this yet? opcorn:


If I remember I'll check it out this evening.


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## VW KEVIN G (Oct 26, 2000)

npace, it looks like your stock 4 spoke leather steering wheel had no radio controls on it. Yes? Are you interested in selling it. I need a leather 4 spoke with no controls on it and have come up empty that such a thing is obtainable. I have a stripped A3 so the plastic wheel is disintegrating but all the replacement wheels I find have controls I can't use on them.


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## CarNut84GTi (Oct 2, 2002)

louiekaps said:


> Ponto, us facelift guys have mk60ec1 abs. Prefacelift just had mk60. Not sure if that was added for our revision. I will take a snapshot soon
> 
> Go into abs(03) - adaptation(10) - channel 09 brake assist - set to 2 aka high


Interesting, have you seen any negatives to doing this? Such as ABS intervening early or anything of that sort? Or does it seem to purely effect the point at which the brakes start to grab?


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## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

So far I have not. There is a thread on vortex where a guy is talking about how on the track, having it set to high actually has less abs intervention. I would think it would be opposite as it is called high brake assist. Will have to wait till the spring to say if it effects braking at the limit but so far under normal and snow driving I think it kicks ass.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

VW KEVIN G said:


> npace, it looks like your stock 4 spoke leather steering wheel had no radio controls on it. Yes? Are you interested in selling it. I need a leather 4 spoke with no controls on it and have come up empty that such a thing is obtainable. I have a stripped A3 so the plastic wheel is disintegrating but all the replacement wheels I find have controls I can't use on them.


Sorry, I don't have the old steering wheel anymore. All I could find was this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-A4-OEM-3-Spoke-Steering-Wheel-in-Grey-Anthracite-Leather-/300903772002?hash=item460f432f62:g:HNsAAMXQinlRjUyK&vxp=mtr

It's a 3 spoke without MFSW, but then you'd have to get an airbag, so.... not sure if it's worthwhile for you or not.


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## beringela001 (Dec 5, 2014)

KW Kevin,

I have a 3 spoke steering with MF and airbag sitting in the garage if you want. Steering was fine apart from looking used (car had 140k miles when I replaced for the s3 one.

Let me know if you are interested

Edit: just saw you mentioned you do not need the MF buttons... Still if you get the one npace send you I guess I would sell just the airbag.

Just for record it was on a 06 a3 6MT and it is a 2 stage airbag


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

It's been a while since I've updated this, but there's good stuff in the works. After getting shipped 3 times, my Ohlins struts started leaking oil (Just a little). I looked into getting a pressure test but that was going to cost as much as a rebuild, so I just went ahead and sent them to Ohlins USA for the rebuild. Once they come back I plan on actually installing the rest of my suspension. Coilovers with custom spring rates from ground control, aluminum spindles, adjustable ball joints, new strut bearings, and all the necessary hardware (axle bolts, etc) 

One of the things I'm worried about, and maybe someone can chime in here; will the stock brake calipers work / fit correctly with the passat aluminum spindles. There's contradicting info out there on this. I don't have stock brakes, I have the boxster upgrade, but since they have the same fitment as stock they should work as long as I use the longer caliper bolt, right? 

Thanks for looking, and I'll post another update once I get the struts back from Ohlins and get going on the install.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

npace said:


> It's been a while since I've updated this, but there's good stuff in the works. After getting shipped 3 times, my Ohlins struts started leaking oil (Just a little). I looked into getting a pressure test but that was going to cost as much as a rebuild, so I just went ahead and sent them to Ohlins USA for the rebuild. Once they come back I plan on actually installing the rest of my suspension. Coilovers with custom spring rates from ground control, aluminum spindles, adjustable ball joints, new strut bearings, and all the necessary hardware (axle bolts, etc)
> 
> One of the things I'm worried about, and maybe someone can chime in here; will the stock brake calipers work / fit correctly with the passat aluminum spindles. There's contradicting info out there on this. I don't have stock brakes, I have the boxster upgrade, but since they have the same fitment as stock they should work as long as I use the longer caliper bolt, right?
> 
> Thanks for looking, and I'll post another update once I get the struts back from Ohlins and get going on the install.


Depends which face of the spindle the Boxter calipers attach to. If they register from the same face as OEM, they should be fine, but if they mount to the opposite face, then they will be off by the width difference of the aluminum vs steel spindle.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

JRutter said:


> Depends which face of the spindle the Boxter calipers attach to. If they register from the same face as OEM, they should be fine, but if they mount to the opposite face, then they will be off by the width difference of the aluminum vs steel spindle.


Ok, I'm going to have to look.... I don't remember which side the OEM ones bolt to. The boxster calipers bolt to a bracket that bolts to the backside of the spindle.

Also JR, what brakes are you running... stoptech, right?


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

npace said:


> Ok, I'm going to have to look.... I don't remember which side the OEM ones bolt to. The boxster calipers bolt to a bracket that bolts to the backside of the spindle.
> 
> Also JR, what brakes are you running... stoptech, right?


Stoptech 328 ST40 kit. One these, the bracket + caliper can all be removed as a unit, so I'm thinking it sits on the front face and bolts through the spindle from the back.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

TBomb said:


> Any pre-facelift guys looked into this yet? opcorn:





BeeAlk said:


> If I remember I'll check it out this evening.



For anyone who cares, I tried this on my pre-facelift car and the ABS module seemed to take the coding change. I have not noticed a significant difference in daily driving though


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## PreMier (Jan 4, 2006)

npace said:


> Did a few things today to continue my slow progress.
> 
> First, I finished my PCV / catch can setup. Some of you may remember my old setup, which was basically the same as this but I retained the stock PCV. After listening to the Humble Mechanic talk about frequent PCV fails on TSI engines, and the subsequent failure of the rear main seal, I decided to head off any issues and replace the PCV. I went with the IE one, mostly for looks, and because you can order it separate from a complete setup. I also went ahead and used a new OEM gasket, because I didn't want to take any chances and I figured that it couldn't hurt.
> 
> Here's the new one with new gasket installed:


i just received my catch can a few days ago, after waiting weeks to get here. now seeing this i realize that cts didn't include a gasket in the kit. i hope that i can get on from the dealer over here.. fml.


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## PreMier (Jan 4, 2006)

also do you have a part number for that? i was going to do mine this weekend, but might be screwed :facepalm:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

You should be able to re-use the old one, but I thought it would be a good item to replace for gp. Part number is 06H103484A.


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## -RalleyTuned- (Nov 17, 2008)

Looking forward to seeing this thing with the new suspension!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Me too! I still haven't heard back from ohlins.... I think they're still waiting on the last parts to button everything up and ship the struts back. I signed up for an ice driving course at the end of the month, so my main priority is snow/ice tires. I also finally got around to getting the rear R32 / TTRS brake setup, and I've got about a week of off time coming up.

Edit: BTW, are you near Yakima? I used to have to go there for training at least 2-3 times a year!


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## -RalleyTuned- (Nov 17, 2008)

I'm near cle elum, bout an hour from Yakima. Closer to the mountains, but still nice weather all summer haha


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Nothing done to the car, but a pretty big development. Today I ordered all the parts needed for the bottom-end build. I'm doing this in stages, so after the bottom-end, I'll be ready for the valve train and new turbo setup, date TBD. 

Here's what's going in worth note:

IE tuscan I-beam rods
Mahle motorsport pistons
ARP head stud kit
Mahle rod bearings
Timing chain service, to include updated tensioner and all new guides and rails.... I was originally going to do the tensioner myself, but the labor cost was virtually nothing since the engine is getting pulled, so I went ahead and added this in. 
Carbon cleaning is also happening, which is nice. They do this as part of a build anyway, and since it's been 3 years since the GT28 was installed, my guess is there's going to be some free power picked up as a result.

Of course, all of the associated parts needed, such as new gaskets, seals, oil pan, blah blah blah are being put in. 

Sometime around the end of this month I expect to be taking the car in for the build. This is the only part I'm not doing myself. I was originally going to give it a go, but messing with the bottom end makes me nervous since I've never done it before. 

In the meantime, I got the Ohlins back and pretty much have the coilover setup put together, plus my brake setup is ready to go in. I was able to keep the brembos up front after all, and I have TTRS 310mm rears with new ss lines ready to go on. 

It's been a while, but it seems this thing is coming together. Next update, I'll post pics of the suspension setup off and going on the car, then later I'll get updates of the actual engine build in here.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

Wow, sounds great!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

JRutter said:


> Wow, sounds great!


Thanks, I'm looking forward to it. You've got your own engine stuff going on.... maybe you can post up some pics and share?


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

npace said:


> Thanks, I'm looking forward to it. You've got your own engine stuff going on.... maybe you can post up some pics and share?


If I get a free few days, I can just combine all of my threads into a build retrospective, lol. Not much to see on my stuff except a hole in my bank account to go back to square 1.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Update time. Parts are in for the bottom end. I'm taking the car to RAI Motorsport, the same place that did Johnny's car, later this week. When that happens, I will make sure to get pics of what's going in the car and see if I can get them to provide some photos of the build itself. It isn't anything that hasn't been done before, but I expect that with the valve cleaning the car will run and pull better. 

To anyone else following this, I still haven't mounted up the suspension. I expect to get some work in on that in the coming weeks. Also, to all my fellow A3 lifers, I'm not ignoring you guys. My old motorola phone finally went T.U. for good. I ordered an iphone se and should have it in just in time to take the car to RAI, so there will be potato pics at the least.


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## AngryGiraffe (Sep 21, 2014)

opcorn:


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

npace said:


> In the meantime, I got the Ohlins back and pretty much have the coilover setup put together, plus my brake setup is ready to go in. I was able to keep the brembos up front after all, and I have TTRS 310mm rears with new ss lines ready to go on.
> 
> It's been a while, but it seems this thing is coming together. Next update, I'll post pics of the suspension setup off and going on the car, then later I'll get updates of the actual engine build in here.


Hey, so I have some brake questions for you.

Did you end up installing the RS3 master cylinder, or will that go in with the new rear brakes?

Do you have plans to upgrade the fronts? You are currently running the "NQSBBK" with the Boxster Brembos on stock rotors, right? So your new rear brakes are basically the same size as your front brakes 

Lastly, and most pertinent to my interests, how do you like the Stoptech pads in the Boxster Brembos? I am about to fit my NQSBBK and was going to just use the Galfer pads that came with them for a while, but was considering getting some new pads and fresh rotors at some point and considering Stoptechs since that's what I have in my OEM brakes and have been fairly pleased with them so far.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

TBomb said:


> Hey, so I have some brake questions for you.
> 
> Did you end up installing the RS3 master cylinder, or will that go in with the new rear brakes?
> 
> ...


RS3 master is still on the shelf.... I'm probably going to put in the new rears, see how everything feels, and then do the master cylinder. At this rate, check back in 2017. :facepalm: I still have to do the suspension, the rear brakes, possibly new fronts, some interior bits, and headlights as well. I have the tools and knowledge (for the most part) but lack the time. 

I have boxster brembos on the front, but have two different BBKs I'm considering switching to. I don't know what the NQSBBK is, but I did all the apikol stuff with boxster calipers, if that's what you mean. So yes, the fronts and rears will be basically the same size, but the bias with the amount of fluid displacement is still almost the same as stock. Of the two front setups I'm looking at, one is a wilwood setup, and the other is the stoptech one. It comes down to wheel fitment for me, but we'll see.

The stoptech pads are really good, IMO. No complaints. If you want to see a good improvement in brake fade, get two piece, directional veined rotors when you replace them. Pricey, but worth it if you track the car.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

npace said:


> RS3 master is still on the shelf.... I'm probably going to put in the new rears, see how everything feels, and then do the master cylinder. At this rate, check back in 2017. :facepalm: I still have to do the suspension, the rear brakes, possibly new fronts, some interior bits, and headlights as well. I have the tools and knowledge (for the most part) but lack the time.
> 
> I have boxster brembos on the front, but have two different BBKs I'm considering switching to. I don't know what the NQSBBK is, but I did all the apikol stuff with boxster calipers, if that's what you mean. So yes, the fronts and rears will be basically the same size, but the bias with the amount of fluid displacement is still almost the same as stock. Of the two front setups I'm looking at, one is a wilwood setup, and the other is the stoptech one. It comes down to wheel fitment for me, but we'll see.
> 
> The stoptech pads are really good, IMO. No complaints. If you want to see a good improvement in brake fade, get two piece, directional veined rotors when you replace them. Pricey, but worth it if you track the car.


Thanks for the info! The NQSBBK = Not Quite So Big Brake Kit, as coined by the guy who pretty much came up with the idea of fitting the Boxster calipers on the MkV platform over in the UK (here).

I think I'm going to run the Galfer pads that came in mine on my current rotors and see how that goes, if it sucks I'll buy new rotors and throw in some Stoptech or Pagid pads.

Have you done the math on how the larger RS3 MC will affect your options for larger/more pistons up front along with the upgrade in the rear? One of the reasons the Boxster calipers work so well in our cars is the total piston size is roughly the same as the OEM single piston fronts. With the larger MC that will allow you to safely run larger pistons with a good pedal still. If you are working under the constraints of what will fit under a certain size wheel, that changes things. I am fairly certain the Stoptech ST40 kit has the same size pistons as the Boxster caliper, just with a larger rotor.

Knowing you, you've already looked into all that...but there is some good info in that thread I linked to.

I know all about not having any time...our little girl is almost two months old and I have barely washed my car since she got here 

Edit: The Stoptech ST40 kit actually has smaller pistons than the Boxster calipers, the Brembo GT calipers are the same size as the Boxster. This is some good info - here.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Yeah, I'm trying to stay with 17" wheels for weight / track purposes. Based on the displacement size, the rear r32 brakes should still be fine, even though they're barely smaller than the fronts. After Jbrehm had his rears catch fire, I didn't want to take chances. I'm pretty sure JRutter has the r32 rears, and I know he's running the stoptechs up front. 

Today I replaced all the stock PCV stuff and went over everything before taking the car in on Friday. Tomorrow I'm at work from 0800 through 2100 (9pm) and it's supposed to rain later in the week, so I wanted to make sure I was happy with everything now. Last drive before the engine build will be to RAI motorsport on Friday.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

npace said:


> Yeah, I'm trying to stay with 17" wheels for weight / track purposes. Based on the displacement size, the rear r32 brakes should still be fine, even though they're barely smaller than the fronts. After Jbrehm had his rears catch fire, I didn't want to take chances. I'm pretty sure JRutter has the r32 rears, and I know he's running the stoptechs up front.
> 
> Today I replaced all the stock PCV stuff and went over everything before taking the car in on Friday. Tomorrow I'm at work from 0800 through 2100 (9pm) and it's supposed to rain later in the week, so I wanted to make sure I was happy with everything now. Last drive before the engine build will be to RAI motorsport on Friday.



opcorn:


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

My car will be there Saturday...being towed up.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

krazyboi said:


> My car will be there Saturday...being towed up.




Coolant hose? Or something worse? I hope it all works out for you.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Well, dropped the car off at RAI yesterday. Nothing really crazy to report but I should have a car with a built bottom end, freshly cleaned valves, and new timing chain tensioner and chains in about a week. 

I'll admit, when I pulled up to the shop, the exterior appearance was not inspiring in terms of confidence:










But going inside, they have a really good setup, and can do everything there, including welding and fabrication work. There's a tubular manifold they make in house that I've got my eyes on:










When I went inside and introduced myself, they brought out a box of all the fun parts that are going on the car. I didn't bother to take pictures because its all still individually sealed in plastic with the shipping lubrication, so stock photos!

When I contacted RAI about doing this, they recommended getting IE rods with rifle drilling. Because of the price point, it was worth it to go ahead and get the tuscan I-beam rods, even though my car probably won't be seeing the levels of power that they can handle:










The rods are beefy and a bit heavier than I expected, but one of the reasons I spent the extra money is that they are finished, balanced, and sold in sets in house at IE. The Mahle pistons are also really nice, and a lot lighter that I expected:










They come with wrist pins and piston rings. I also got the OE calico coated bearings, which should be a nice touch. With the new timing chain tensioner, guides, and chains, the engine should last quite a long time without any issues. 

Pic of the car as I left.... the last time I'll see it before it gets surgery:










I shouldn't see any immediate gains, but I am hoping that the engine runs a little smoother and has some more pickup with the valves being cleaned, but we'll see. 

In the meantime, I've got work to do. When I sent out the front shocks to ohlins, they came back with chips in the paint. Not a huge deal, but I used VHT caliper paint. I decided I'm going to smooth everything out with a nylon abrasive wheel and re-paint with some suspension specific stuff. It's more like an epoxy and should resist moisture and corrosion better than the caliper paint. I ended up doing something like 5 layers of the caliper paint, and even as it chips off, it's still really thin pieces. 

I also ended up getting this floor jack:









It's retarded heavy but its also beefy and lifts up to 24". I plan to use it when I finally install all these new suspension bits. 

A pretty big update, but that's it for now. Thanks for following along.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

And so, update with pics. I've had the car back for a week now, with no problems. RAI did a fantastic job, and Ray is a great guy to work with if anyone wants to have work done in the DC / Baltimore area. We've had several conversations back and forth, he's really knowledgeable, and was able to give me a good idea of what to go with in my next turbo setup to get what I want out of the car, but more on that later.





The engine, pre-teardown:
















Head Removed:






























Here you can see the condition of the valves. The car has been running pretty lean without throwing any codes, which is of some concern, especially given the propensity of these engines to have the valve springs fail under lean conditions. This is caused by a software issue, so I've chalked it up to another reason to leave APR:
















I've contacted Eurodyne in an effort to correct this. I should be able to get the maestro software suite, which will allow me to make changes now, and update the software as I get new hardware (like the new turbo I've got my eyes on). In the long run, its a good company with a good reputation and should save me some cost. I can also manipulate the files for things like w/m for increased fueling and boost on track days and then tone it down for the street. Hopefully, I'll hear back soon. 


This engine build became a case of "while you're in there". There were some things I could've done myself, like the timing chain tensioner, but having it done at RAI made sense because of the price point. (Plus, at the rate I'm going with the diy stuff, who knows when I would get to it....)


Cylinder Head on the bench, getting a once over with a much needed intake valve cleaning:
















New timing chain, and oil pan removed:
















Transmission out to remove upper oil pan:
















New Rear main seal:
















So that's all the updates for now. I'll update this more as I get the suspension stuff done and in. It's coming slow, but I'm finishing a graduate thesis. Once that's done, I should have a lot more time to work on the car. And thanks to everyone that's still following along.


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## wishntoboutside (Mar 11, 2002)

very very nice. your car is going to be awesome


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## AngryGiraffe (Sep 21, 2014)

Wow! 
So many things I would love to some day do, but sadly probably never will. Except the timing chain tensioner. I'm getting an estimate on that tomorrow while the car is in the shop. Keep up the good work. Looking forward to what's next.


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## PreMier (Jan 4, 2006)

Is there a break in period after its all put back together?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

wishntoboutside said:


> very very nice. your car is going to be awesome





AngryGiraffe said:


> Wow!
> So many things I would love to some day do, but sadly probably never will. Except the timing chain tensioner. I'm getting an estimate on that tomorrow while the car is in the shop. Keep up the good work. Looking forward to what's next.



Thanks fellas. A few more pics below while I start getting some other things going.......





PreMier said:


> Is there a break in period after its all put back together?



Yes, it's just like if you buy a brand-new car. Break-in can be done according to manufacturer instructions. I was told to do two things: vary my speed if driving on the highway a long way (I'm not / did not) and not to be afraid to step on it a little. Basically you can drive it like normal, if like 99% of the public normal means not getting into heavy boost and racing around. 


Some more pics - 





Fun parts laid out and getting ready:
















Old on the left, new on the right:
















New rods on the crank:
















New pistons and headstuds installed. You can also see one of the new timing chain guides on the left:
















Head and block getting back together again, plus another shot of new timing chain and guides:
















That's all for now. Back to schoolwork. In a few more weeks, I should have a lot more time for suspension and whatnot.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

Looking good! opcorn:


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## AngryGiraffe (Sep 21, 2014)

:thumbup:


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

Nice! Those new rods look beefy


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Let me know if you need a hand with anything. I'd be glad to hand you a beer while sitting there.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

krazyboi said:


> Let me know if you need a hand with anything. I'd be glad to hand you a beer while sitting there.


You can finish my thesis for me.  Seriously though, you're welcome here anytime you want. I'll let you know when I plan to start the suspension stuff if you just want to come by, hangout, whatever.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

So, a minor update, but should lead to a noticeable change. 


In an effort to try and get my fuel trims in line, I just ordered two new O2 sensors and the P3 gauges track pack to add on to my existing P3 gauge. This was the less expensive route; I figure that with the P3 gauge I'll be seeing what the AFR is according to the ECU, so I'll know for sure if it is indeed a software issue or something else. My plan is to update the gauge and check the readings, then see if the readings change when I replace the rear sensor, and the same when I replace the front sensor. I'll post an update once all that stuff comes in and I install it. Because of the potential severity if the problem persists, this will be the next thing I take care of on the car.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> So, a minor update, but should lead to a noticeable change.
> 
> 
> In an effort to try and get my fuel trims in line, I just ordered two new O2 sensors and the P3 gauges track pack to add on to my existing P3 gauge. This was the less expensive route; I figure that with the P3 gauge I'll be seeing what the AFR is according to the ECU, so I'll know for sure if it is indeed a software issue or something else. My plan is to update the gauge and check the readings, then see if the readings change when I replace the rear sensor, and the same when I replace the front sensor. I'll post an update once all that stuff comes in and I install it. Because of the potential severity if the problem persists, this will be the next thing I take care of on the car.


Was the tune leaning out? Just wondering because it's a fairly known issue with APR stage 3.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

crew219 said:


> Was the tune leaning out? Just wondering because it's a fairly known issue with APR stage 3.


It's my suspicion but I'm not sure. It could be the O2 spacer, a fouled sensor, or something in the fuel system. I have my doubts about the fuel system being the issue. I'm leaning toward it being the software, but I want to rule out the possibility of sensors as the issue before I spend $800 on new software. I'll be doing the software eventually, but I would prefer to push it off to a later date.


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## AngryGiraffe (Sep 21, 2014)

Track pack is only $25 and seems pretty easy to install. Getting that for sure. I noticed that on the P3 website it says it's for 2.0t fsi/tsi/tfsi but under cars it only lists the TT and 8V A3. weird?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

AngryGiraffe said:


> Track pack is only $25 and seems pretty easy to install. Getting that for sure. I noticed that on the P3 website it says it's for 2.0t fsi/tsi/tfsi but under cars it only lists the TT and 8V A3. weird?


It is weird; it actually lists Audi 8P next to the TT variants; the TT chassis code is 8J. I honestly think it will work fine. It works with all of the other VAG MkVI platform variants, and third-party retailers like USP list it on their site as fitting the A3. If it doesn't work I'll post it. 

Since my earlier post I've been looking into software, and it looks more and more like I'll be upgrading that sooner than later. :banghead:

I'm still going to test out all the O2 stuff, however.


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## [email protected] (Jul 29, 2008)

npace said:


> Here you can see the condition of the valves. The car has been running pretty lean without throwing any codes, which is of some concern, especially given the propensity of these engines to have the valve springs fail under lean conditions. This is caused by a software issue, so I've chalked it up to another reason to leave APR


Unfortunately, this is a misdiagnosis. 

-	The color of your valves are normal for a direct injected engine.
-	Lean conditions don’t cause valve springs to fail.
-	The ECU has closed loop fueling. We don’t “turn this off.”

You ECU has closed loop fueling control. We don’t change this. The rear o2 sensor constantly sniffs the exhaust, and makes adjustments to the fueling to hit the targeted values. A physically hardware limitation, such as a failing or incorrect part, is the only way to create a “lean” condition, so to speak. The o2 sensor will capture this instantly, and will apply changes to make the fueling system hit the prescribed values. This will mean longer injection times, which, if it’s an issue, will result in the fueling maxing out the injection window, resulting in a misfire, rapid fuel trim increases, fuel codes, and limp mode. 

Thank you

-Arin


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

opcorn:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> Unfortunately, this is misdiagnosis.
> 
> -	The color of your valves are normal for a direct injected engine.
> -	Lean conditions don’t cause valve springs to fail.
> ...


So RAI doesn't know what they're doing, and the valves should be white with black specks? Note that it's almost all of the valves, and not just the exhaust valves. Also, note the color of the spark plugs. I realize that you don't change how the car fuels (that's a hardware issue, then software to control it), but APR must change something. If not, are you telling me that you add boost, make changes for the MAF location and diameter, and hope that everything else adapts for the best? In other words, APR software only adjusts for increased air intake and maybe timing, but not fuel? If so, that is just as concerning, but I don't believe this to be the case.

You're also saying that a lean condition (which can cause overheating) won't cause valve springs to fail. That simply isn't true, or plausible. Increased pressure would be the technical cause, but added heat is certainly a contributing factor. The increased heat and pressure weaken the spring, making it unable to hold the valve against the inertia created at high RPM during the combustion process. Sometimes its because the weight of the valvetrain components is too much for the spring, but in this case, it's unlikely, unless VAG had a supplier issue when they built my car. In fact, in a post you made here you state that the cause of valve spring failure is increased back pressure. 

For reference, here's a spark plug chart. It might be hard to see in the pic, but mine look like the first ones labeled as hot or lean. Also, as you can see on some of the valves, there's signs of pre- detonation. That is exactly a fueling issue. It could be an O2 sensor, it could be software, or it could be a problem in the fueling system. Because everything in the fuel system in the engine bay was disassembled and inspected, hardware in the fuel system is most likely not the problem. 












And if you'd read my earlier post, I'm looking into the O2 sensors first. When I get some solid AFR readings, I'll post them. I realize that Dave and APR had a feud, but I'm not trying to get involved in any of that. I'm posting what I found the way I found it. If you don't like the fact that Dave posted something about APR stage 3 cars having fuel trim issues, please take it up with him. 

Please do not turn this thread into a crappy string of insults and arguments. It's my car, and the color and spotting on the valves and spark plugs point to a lean condition and pre-detonation. I will continue to update as I see fit, as you can do with your car. If it isn't a software issue, I'll be glad to post that as well. :beer:


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## [email protected] (Jul 29, 2008)

npace said:


> So RAI doesn't know what they're doing, and the valves should be white with black specks? Note that it's almost all of the valves, and not just the exhaust valves. Also, note the color of the spark plugs. I realize that you don't change how the car fuels (that's a hardware issue, then software to control it), but APR must change something. If not, are you telling me that you add boost, make changes for the MAF location and diameter, and hope that everything else adapts for the best? In other words, APR software only adjusts for increased air intake and maybe timing, but not fuel? If so, that is just as concerning, but I don't believe this to be the case.


In the simplest form, the calibration commands a desired lambda. Through closed loop control, the ECU does the rest. 



> You're also saying that a lean condition (which can cause overheating) won't cause valve springs to fail. That simply isn't true, or plausible. Increased pressure would be the technical cause, but added heat is certainly a contributing factor. The increased heat and pressure weaken the spring, making it unable to hold the valve against the inertia created at high RPM during the combustion process. Sometimes its because the weight of the valvetrain components is too much for the spring, but in this case, it's unlikely, unless VAG had a supplier issue when they built my car. In fact, in a post you made here you state that the cause of valve spring failure is increased back pressure.


Valve float can occur when backpressure is too high. 

In such case, there are a couple options to eliminate float:

- Better valve control 
+ Spring design
+ Stiffer springs
+ Lighter hardware

- Reduced back pressure
+ Reduce boost pressure
+ Upgrade to a freer flowing setup (stage 3, vs k04 for example).




> For reference, here's a spark plug chart. It might be hard to see in the pic, but mine look like the first ones labeled as hot or lean. Also, as you can see on some of the valves, there's signs of pre- detonation. That is exactly a fueling issue. It could be an O2 sensor, it could be software, or it could be a problem in the fueling system. Because everything in the fuel system in the engine bay was disassembled and inspected, hardware in the fuel system is most likely not the problem.


Much of the information on the net relates to older port injection vehicles. It was once believed by most in the industry that richer mixtures were an absolute necessity for safety, even on GDI engines. However, direct injection differs greatly on the newer engines in that they are able to operate at leaner air fuel ratios. For example, our own R8 LMS race cars completed the 24 hours of Daytona running at nearly lambda one the entire race. Furthermore, VW/Audi's later generation of high output EA888 engines constantly target lambda 1.

With regards to a plug that's "too hot," I'd suggest running a cooler plug. We've found success with this plug, but you may experiment with cooler plug for your own driving style / setup: _NGK BKR8EIX, gapped to 0.022" ±0.002" or 0.55mm ±0.05mm with a change interval of 10-15,000 mi or 16-24,000 km_



> And if you'd read my earlier post, I'm looking into the O2 sensors first. When I get some solid AFR readings, I'll post them. I realize that Dave and APR had a feud, but I'm not trying to get involved in any of that. I'm posting what I found the way I found it. If you don't like the fact that Dave posted something about APR stage 3 cars having fuel trim issues, please take it up with him.
> 
> Please do not turn this thread into a crappy string of insults and arguments. It's my car, and the color and spotting on the valves and spark plugs point to a lean condition and pre-detonation. I will continue to update as I see fit, as you can do with your car. If it isn't a software issue, I'll be glad to post that as well. :beer:


I appologize, but I have not followed the rest of your thread, or the comments of which you speak. 

My only desire is to respond to the misdiagnosis. 

Thank you!

-Arin


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> In the simplest form, the calibration commands a desired lambda. Through closed loop control, the ECU does the rest.
> 
> Valve float can occur when backpressure is too high.
> 
> ...


Okay, there really isn't any information out there on how APR does tuning. Again, software is only one thing I'm looking at.

FWIW, I don't have, or suspect valve float. The information out there suggests that the CCTA engines are susceptible to valve float, and I'm concerned that a lean condition could contribute to it. 





[email protected] said:


> Much of the information on the net relates to older port injection vehicles. It was once believed by most in the industry that richer mixtures were an absolute necessity for safety, even on GDI engines. However, direct injection differs greatly on the newer engines in that they are able to operate at leaner air fuel ratios. For example, our own R8 LMS race cars completed the 24 hours of Daytona running at nearly lambda one the entire race. Furthermore, VW/Audi's later generation of high output EA888 engines constantly target lambda 1.
> 
> With regards to a plug that's "too hot," I'd suggest running a cooler plug. We've found success with this plug, but you may experiment with cooler plug for your own driving style / setup: _NGK BKR8EIX, gapped to 0.022" ±0.002" or 0.55mm ±0.05mm with a change interval of 10-15,000 mi or 16-24,000 km_


I'm still running the same plug that you're suggesting, which is also what originally came in the stage 3 kit. The pre-detonation evidence, coupled with the heat is what leads me to believe that there is a lean condition





[email protected] said:


> I appologize, but I have not followed the rest of your thread, or the comments of which you speak.
> 
> My only desire is to respond to the misdiagnosis.
> 
> ...


No worries! I didn't mean to *only* blame APR for the issue, as I haven't finished going through everything yet. It came off that way, and I get that. But given the (lack of) frequency that APR visits this section of the forum outside advertising, I found it odd that Dave commented yesterday and then this post came up. The signs of pre-detonation point to the car running lean, so it isn't a misdiagnosis, as you claim. The root cause is what's in question.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> I appologize, but I have not followed the rest of your thread, or the comments of which you speak.
> 
> My only desire is to respond to the misdiagnosis.
> 
> ...


Thread jack, when is your next software sale? I have a buddy interested.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

npace said:


> Given the (lack of) frequency that APR visits this section of the forum outside advertising, I found it odd that Dave commented yesterday and then this post came up.





krazyboi said:


> Thread jack, when is your next software sale? I have a buddy interested.


I'd be surprised at a response. After the whole RSC thing, and some of the problems people have had, they're just trolling around for damage control in an effort to retain a customer base. Dave's post led to Arin's post.


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

npace said:


> I'd be surprised at a response. After the whole RSC thing, and some of the problems people have had, they're just trolling around for damage control in an effort to retain a customer base. Dave's post led to Arin's post.


hahahaha arin follows dave's posts!


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## PreMier (Jan 4, 2006)

:facepalm:


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)




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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Well, it seems photobucket dropped all of my pics. I have most of them, and I'll re-update the thread with the photos over the next couple of days to get it all straightened out. There's a few pics that I can't find. They show as being there on photobucket, but when I click on the thumbnail, it shows the bad link stock image that you see all over this page. It seems that when they went to update their site, they got everything all screwed up.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

I got the P3 track pack software in the mail, and got it installed today. It's a nice, quick 5 min project for anyone looking to upgrade an older P3 gauge.




























And here's the result. Either my O2 sensors are bad, or the car is indeed running lean. Based on the condition of the cylinder head, I'm guessing that it's the latter, and not a misdiagnosis as Arin suggested. 













The closest to 14.7 my car ran during readings was 14.89. This leads me to believe it is in fact, a software issue. When I do the O2 sensors I'll post another update, but I'm not holding my breath for any changes.


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## AngryGiraffe (Sep 21, 2014)

Glad to hear the update worked on the P3 and I'm going to order mine in the next few weeks. From what little I have read and I'm sure you would know better than I would, but with the oxygenated gasoline that most of us use isn't an actual A/F ratio of 15:1 closer to stoichiometric? If Lambda is greater than 1.0, then there is a surplus of air and the engine is running lean. If Lambda is less than 1.0, then there is a surplus of fuel and the engine is running rich. So even if you were going for a 14:7 reading shouldn't a 15:18 be ok?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

First, I'll say that I certainly do not know everything I could about AFRs, but basically 14.7:1 is stoichiometric for pump gas. Lambda 1 is stoichiometric regardless of which fuel you use. In terms of AFR, it breaks down like this:

14.7:1 - Pump fuel
13.4:1 - Racing fuel (Such as VP 109)
9.8:1 - E85

The higher the readout on the AFR, the higher the oxygen content. In my case, the car is running 15.18:1, which means that for every 1 unit of fuel, the car is burning 15.18 units of oxygen. To be running rich, I would have a readout below 14.7. 

This is how I understand it: The O2 sensors read oxygen content in lambda. So if you're running a different fuel, such as VP 109, as long as you tune for that fuel the car will adjust to the appropriate fuel levels to target stoichiometric, and you'll still get a readout of 14.7:1, unless you redefine lambda in the ECU.

As for what I'm getting, the ECU translates this to an AFR when storing a fault code, but it has to reach a certain level to trigger a fault. So while 15.18:1 is lean, it is not normally a problem. However, when adding the heat of a big turbo, the heat added from running lean even a little can be dangerous. It also isn't ideal, and it means that the car is less efficient, and producing less power than it could be. 

But like I said, I don't know as much as I could or should, so if I'm wrong, anyone can feel free to correct me and point me toward the right information.


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## AngryGiraffe (Sep 21, 2014)

I'm with you as far as wanting it to read as close to 14:7 as possible and it would drive me crazy getting readings that were off that number as well. I only asked because that is what I read on Ross-Tech. I also didn't think about the fact that you luckily have a bigger turbo. :laugh: I hope you get it all sorted soon so we can resume the CarPorn that this build thread provides.:beer:


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## gammerx (Nov 24, 2015)

Is it worth it to do pistons as well? How much did it cost ya for install/parts? Looking to do something similar later this year


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

None of this is cheap. I listed all of the parts that went into it, so you can get an idea of the cost from that perspective. As for the labor, you'll have to find a motorsport or machine shop in your area. I went to a place that specifically does these cars and has a good reputation. I also shopped around. Luckily, in addition to RAI, there's NGP, APTuning, and a few others semi-regionally that help keep prices competitive. RAI gave me the best prices on laobor. Things like the timing chain tensioner that I am capable of were basically free (well, after parts, but I would've had to pay that anyway) because everything was already disassembled. 

Basically, I contacted places, and asked for an estimate for what I wanted. A few were off the deep end on prices and were easy to eliminate. Then there were the ones that tried to upsell me on stuff I didn't want. I went with the best price/reputation, and who listened to me and gave me honest feedback. RAI gave me a lot of specific feedback about my car, and they did krazyboi's car, so I knew that they could handle the job.

Sorry, but I'd prefer not to post specific numbers. My wife might read it and kill me, and I'm looking forward to my first father's day as a dad. You can contact RAI and get an estimate, or contact someone near you and get a good idea of what something like this costs.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> I'd be surprised at a response. After the whole RSC thing, and some of the problems people have had, they're just trolling around for damage control in an effort to retain a customer base. Dave's post led to Arin's post.


:laugh:

Didn't even see this thread after I posted. 

A few APR distributors / employees told me about the issues with the TSI Stage 3 tunes. Even if that wasn't enough evidence, just look at what happened with Halvie's poor car. 

Either way, Arin's posting has very little to do with helping you out, but I think you already know that. 

Dave


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## gammerx (Nov 24, 2015)

Already put together a decent parts list so I know cost for that. Force fed engineering is near me, they helped develop the Franken turbo build back in 2013. Most likely going with a gtx2976r and will do all the work there. They got me for under 5 figures, but I'm going to do it in 3 stages. 
1st WMI and possible IE intake manifold.
2nd bottom end rebuild (I'll probably just do pistons while it's out) and valvetrain
3rd turbo and tune
Might take me a while though, military doesn't quite pay the big bucks but good luck with yours! Hope to join you soon


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

crew219 said:


> :laugh:
> 
> Didn't even see this thread after I posted.
> 
> ...





And cue an APR response in 5, 4, 3.........






gammerx said:


> Already put together a decent parts list so I know cost for that. Force fed engineering is near me, they helped develop the Franken turbo build back in 2013. Most likely going with a gtx2976r and will do all the work there. They got me for under 5 figures, but I'm going to do it in 3 stages.
> 1st WMI and possible IE intake manifold.
> 2nd bottom end rebuild (I'll probably just do pistons while it's out) and valvetrain
> 3rd turbo and tune
> Might take me a while though, military doesn't quite pay the big bucks but good luck with yours! Hope to join you soon




If you're near FFE, you're also near tyrolsport, excelerate performance, BNR motorsport, and I think a few others. One recommendation I would make is to do the W/m and manifold after the engine build, and if you can swing it at the same time as the turbo. You'll need a tune for it, and that way you only pay once instead of twice.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Today I started working on finalizing the suspension for install. 

Back in February, I had the struts rebuilt at Ohlins USA, because I bought them used and wasn't 100% confident in them. The fronts started leaking, so I sent them out. 

When they came back, the paint was flaking off. I had originally stripped and re-painted them with a high temp caliper paint because I couldn't find a silver suspension paint to match what the ohlins originally looked like. So today, I started stripping them again with a dico nylon wheel.

















It came right off because it was basically $h*t. A better paint would've required a wire wheel.



















Once stripped, I also removed the ohlins stickers. Now, only you and I know that they're ohlins. I wanted to make sure that the struts got full coverage and that I wouldn't have to worry about rusting or paint bubbling or anything. So I used a VHT epoxy paint designed for suspension. Here it is after the first coat:
















I also wanted to do some other suspension bits, those are the brake line brackets that mount to the spindles with one of the struts. I still have a few more coats, and then I have to do the rears. Later, I'll get new front bearings and wheel studs, and it can all go in, fingers crossed.


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## A3-Owner (Aug 10, 2015)

*Sharing My Fueling Experience*

NPace, you have helped me few times so I thought I would share my fueling experience with this car. If you know all of this then that is great.

I have a built motor and the APR Stage 3 2867R kit also on a 2012 Audi A3 Quattro. I live in Denver at a mile elevation and we have 91 octane. When I was on APR's software I never had fueling issue because they keep the tune to below the limits of the engine and stock fueling system. We put in an APR inline pump and I went with United Motorsports custom tune and they got 50 more HP from the car before we starting running into 'limp' mode issues. This was from the stock fuel pump controller overheating but we didn't know it at the time. I put in a DW65V AWD pump and a 3.2 A3 fuel pump housing and we kept seeing the issue. I put in the 3.2 pump and still saw limp mode issues. Our cars don't have a low side fuel pressure sensor. After having my car completely die on me on the highway I went into the shop and the tech put the stock fuel pump controller in his hands and couldn't hold it because it was so hot. Aha! Doing research I found this is common on the stock fuel pump and after market pumps that are working under heavy load. They fuel pump controller can overheat and the fuel pump stops working.

With UM and APR the car would run lean by the way at this point.

I found the Torqbyte PM3 and I installed that and my overheating issues were taken care of and left the 3.2 pump in because the DW65V AWD(389-400AWHP limit confirmed from DW themselves) pump can't work as well as the stock 3.2 pump from a A3. Next I had ZZP Opel injectors installed and UM did increase the fueling and the car was now on the rich side and we got a little more power but now the car was going into limp mode again at about 25 PSI. The shop had a mechanical fuel pressure device and they installed it inline on the low side and high side and put the car on the dyno and saw this time the HPFP was being maxed out. Once the HPFP hit 160 PSI it would tell the ECU to slow down and the ECU would limp mode the engine to protect it. Doing more research the motor's HPFP is good for about 450-500 crank HP. 

We started looking into an aftermarket HPFP for the TSI but none are made in the US. The US HPFP is different then the rest of world's(ROW) TSI HPFP and there is a Loba HPFP that is 50 percent more flowing but it doesn't work on US cars. So I am hitting the fueling limit for the TSI's HPFP in the US. Next steps if I want more power are:

W/M
Fifth Injector
Engine Swap-would love a 2.5T if I won the lotto.


https://torqbyte.com/products/torqbyte-pm3

Torqbyte has nice diagrams showing the overheating issue on their site. 

The big turbo thread on golfmk6.com is a great source of big turbo knowledge.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Thanks, this is all great information. I knew about the torquebyte, but didn't know about using the 3.2 pump. I plan on eventually doing a w/m setup that runs off of torrquebyte in tandem with the fuel system. As for the 3.2 pump does it drop in, or do you need a different housing? Also, can you send me a link to the Opel injectors? A quick search and I'm coming up with two that look different from one another. And thanks again, that's all great info you provided.


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## A3-Owner (Aug 10, 2015)

npace said:


> Thanks, this is all great information. I knew about the torquebyte, but didn't know about using the 3.2 pump. I plan on eventually doing a w/m setup that runs off of torrquebyte in tandem with the fuel system. As for the 3.2 pump does it drop in, or do you need a different housing? Also, can you send me a link to the Opel injectors? A quick search and I'm coming up with two that look different from one another. And thanks again, that's all great info you provided.


For the 3.2 pump you will need the housing from a 3.2 A3 also so it is not a drop it. Just buy the housing and the pump and it will drop right into the tank. Our LPFP pumps are much smaller then the 3.2 pump or DW65V pump which are the same size. Make sure all of the fuel lines are put back into the same place so when you take out the old pump make a mental note. There is a line that connects to the sending unit on the other side of the saddle fuel tank on the drivers side that is a pain to disconnect and reconnect. 

http://zzperformance.com/ecotec/fueling/opel-hp-direct-injection-fuel-injectors.html

For the ZZP they come connected to the fuel rail for an ECOTec motor. Just pull them off and there is some slight modifying that has to be done. My mechanic installed these and he spliced the electrical connection into the VW OEM harness and they work great. Ben, my mechanic, said they fit great. These flow 30 percent more the then stock injectors and can run E85. There are older LNF injectors out there that I think APR put in their Stage 3 + kit but those flow at 18 percent more then the OEM stock injectors. These ZZP are larger versions of the LNF injectors. 

I am thinking about the CM5 from Torqbyte for the future.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Well, now I need to figure out how those get modified to fit the car. The nice thing is they are a great deal less $ than the only other option I've seen, which is at about $1k. 

Thanks again for the info.


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## gammerx (Nov 24, 2015)

npace said:


> If you're near FFE, you're also near tyrolsport, excelerate performance, BNR motorsport, and I think a few others. One recommendation I would make is to do the W/m and manifold after the engine build, and if you can swing it at the same time as the turbo. You'll need a tune for it, and that way you only pay once instead of twice.


Are you suggesting I check those places out as well? I've heard good things about tyrolsport; I only spoke with the owner of FFE and he did a good job selling me on his knowledge of the platform. Well since this is a long term build, I was planning to just WMI and max out the K03 now, and then finalize the engine build in 2 phases since the bottom end build and turbo each cost a few buckaroos


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

gammerx said:


> Are you suggesting I check those places out as well? I've heard good things about tyrolsport; I only spoke with the owner of FFE and he did a good job selling me on his knowledge of the platform. Well since this is a long term build, I was planning to just WMI and max out the K03 now, and then finalize the engine build in 2 phases since the bottom end build and turbo each cost a few buckaroos


I'm not going to tell you what to do. What I did was get written estimates from shops in my area that already had a good reputation. That way, I knew what their pricing schedule was and how to prepare for the possibility of unforeseen costs. It will happen; it happens in every build like this. You could be the rare exception, but I've yet to see one not go over budget for some reason. I was also able to use multiple estimates to my advantage. I went back to a couple of places and was like "look, such and such is telling me they can do it for this, here's a copy of the estimate." It's one thing to say it, but when you put it in their hands and show them an itemized list with parts and labor laid out, it changes their attitude. 

For labor, almost all of these places work on a flat rate system, meaning they pay the mechanic for a set amount of hours for a certain job, regardless of how long it actually takes. For example, if they pay 8 hours for a piston and rod swap, but you don't have an estimate or know what they pay, then they can charge you whatever they want and pocket the rest. Things come up, but you'll want to go into this with as much knowledge as possible. I've been wanting to do this for three years, and spent a long time researching it. I'm not suggesting you take 3 years on it, but it would benefit you to take your time. 

I'm also not trying to steer you away from FFE, they have a great reputation. In my experience, one shop wouldn't provide me with a written estimate, and that automatically disqualified them from working on my car. Like I said, I'm not going to tell you what to do, but I look at it as a short term contract; they work for you until the car is completed as requested. You wouldn't hire a contractor to remodel your kitchen without a written estimate, so why would you hand over your car for an engine rebuild without one? Just a thought.


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## gammerx (Nov 24, 2015)

Gotcha. The biggest thing for me is I like to be a part of it. Where I live now the shop I goto let's me work on the car with the mechs. It's do much more rewarding but I understand for insurance liability why shops wouldn't want a non employee doing work. I'll definitely ask around in terms of cost but to me it seems like FFE has the best tuner experience and build quality. 

This is why I've always loved to use forums for the purpose of discussion and advice with others who are also interested in the same thing as I am or have even done it. I divided up the build into those 3 steps knowing it will need to be tuned twice. But given that it'll likely take over a year to save up for it comfortably, I tried to space it out in a way that cures the mod bug. I could also do smaller aesthetic bits too such as rear LED tails and wheels etc. But of course power is more appealing


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Did some more work on my fuel trim issue today; installed a new rear O2 sensor. It seemed to help a little. I guess the downpipe and high flow cat could cause it to get fouled a little early, but it seems like it should still work with less than 30,000 miles. 


For anyone in the market for O2 sensors, I would highly recommend saving some money and getting bosch brand ones instead of the OEM brand ones.

Here's why:


















It comes with an OEM connector installed, and a replacement one to swap over depending on what style you have. The instructions are OEM, and have the Audi/VW logo on them, as do the connectors. In other words, it's an OEM part in a bosch box. I got mine for half the price of OEM on Amazon, and with prime that meant free shipping. 


Fits like a glove:

















Also, I've been getting a clunking noise when turning slowly over bumps, like in a parking lot. So I took off a front wheel and found the culprit pretty quickly:















That's one of the rod ends on my front endlink. 3 out of 4 look like that. I could drop $200 plus on some new ones, but I think I have a better, and much cheaper solution. 



First, I measured the bolt width:
















Then the length:















And finally the thread pitch:














I'll be ordering some high quality spherical rod ends to replace these. What I have now is the same style you get from USP, whiteline, etc. So if this happens to you, you can measure to make sure, and then order just the rod ends at a fraction of the cost for what places like 034 are charging. 



That's it for now, but I'm going to try and keep doing a little work every week until I move again in July. Thanks for reading.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

I was notified that some of the pics in the thread were missing, so I re-posted. Everything should be fixed now, but if there's anything you guys want to see more of, let me know and I'll make more updates. 

Another small update. Finally got the spherical rod ends in and started putting everything together. 
















I had to stop, however, because the bolts are just a little too small for the ID of the rod ends. I ordered some sleeve bearings to correct the problem. Once those are in, I'll have _almost_ everything I need for the new suspension to go in. What's left is I also need front bearings and wheel studs, and currently don't have the $$ to support. I'll be posting some sale threads at the end of the week, so if anyone needs a haldex controller or other goodies, take a look. I'm also going to sell the bilstein shocks and VWR springs. Looks like the rain will stop Thursday / Friday, so I'm going to try and have that stuff posted up by the weekend.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Another small update. Slowly but surely, things are coming along. I guess if I keep going, slow as it is, this will get done.


Installed the HPA haldex competition controller today.















I also removed the front end links so I could get the jamb nuts cleaned up. Put them in a phosphoric acid bath with some other bolts and some tools that had rust. So for the end links, I'll be using the other parts, and re-using the threaded bodies and jamb nuts. 












That's all for now. When I get the scratch, I'll get the wheel bearings and studs and do the suspension.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

Nice. Does the controller have a switch? Even if it doesn't, sport mode is good stuff.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

No, I had the switchable controller with remote, but it was on sport mode all the time. I was going to get a UM tune for my stock one; supposedly its very similar to the HPA competition controller in that it stays engaged through braking. Then Lou offered his HPA competition controller for sale and it was too good to pass up, so I removed the switchable one and swapped in the competition controller. A convoluted answer, but that was my thought process.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

Ooooh, I get it now. I didn't know about the gen 4 options. That seems like a really nice upgrade, staying engaged with braking. Jealous...


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> Did some more work on my fuel trim issue today; installed a new rear O2 sensor. It seemed to help a little. I guess the downpipe and high flow cat could cause it to get fouled a little early, but it seems like it should still work with less than 30,000 miles.


From what I understand, the rear O2 doesn't affect fuel trims. It's solely the primary O2 sensor.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Congrats on being out of purgatory!

As far as the O2 sensor goes, here's how I understand it: they really both only read oxygen content in the "atmosphere" that exists in the exhaust. That information is balanced against the information the ECU gets about the fuel injector duty cycle and information from the MAP and MAF to determine fuel trims. It makes sense that the primary O2 has a larger role in helping the ECU control the injector duty cycle, but it has to be balanced against post-cat readings to account for the turbo and the surges in oxygen content that causes based on whether the wastegate is open or not. 

Either way, the fuel trims are still rather lean, but they're not sitting above 15 at idle anymore. I plan to swap out the front one in a day or so; I just haven't gotten around to it. It was more of an experiment. I wanted to change the rear, see how the readings changed, or if they did after driving for a while, and then do the front. I'll post up the results when I do the swap.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> Congrats on being out of purgatory!


Thanks! Don't post a screenshot of a vendor making contradictory statements on another platform 

Still running APR? United Motorsport might be a good option to look into. They seem to be writing better software for the APR kits (Golf R & TTRS at least).


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

LOL sponsors are never wrong. I have had good experience with UM and the premier VW/Audi tuning shop in Seattle uses them as a basis for their tunes.


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## A3-Owner (Aug 10, 2015)

*My UM and APR experience*

I am the UM with APR hardware A3 whore on the forums so I can provide insight and I always like to share my experiences.

Pros of going to UM-
Powarrr! I am putting down 380 all wheel HP on 91 on a mustang dyno at 5200 feet and 420 all wheel HP on a dynojet dyno at 5200 feet. For comparison-330 AWHP on a mustang with APR and 370 on a dynojet with APR.
Refinement
A rushing feeling as car gets into boost.
Tune can be changed as you give feedback to Jeffrey Atwood. Jeffrey is happy to make changes as the customer needs. I asked for a slightly detuned file recently, still powerful though, to give more longevity to the engine and he did it. He is always happy to provide feedback through his shops about where to take a car next and work with custom setups if you go that route.
Jeffrey is great with DSG tunes. He is masterful in getting more torque to the wheels.
Better support from the local UM shop if you have one near you. Jeffrey is a busy man but he stays in touch with his partner shops. Jeffrey has worked on my car late in the night a few times.
Haldex tune available.
Jeffrey has done a lot of things with tuning that other tuners have to copy from him to get into their products.

Cons of going to UM-
Need to buy a custom BT tune.
Need to buy a custom DSG tune if a person has a DSG. APR's tune can't handle the stage 3 power and it really limits the torque. I should know because I had the APR stage 2 DSG tune for months after the stage 3 install.(Maybe a UM dealer can give you a bundle deal)
Lose a lot of the bells and whistles that APR has:
-Changing Octanes
-Going to back to a stock file.
-Fault Erase
-Valet mode
-Security pin
-What ever else I am missing.

Pros with staying with APR-
Bells and whistles that APR has:
-Changing Octanes
-Going to back to a stock file.
-Fault Erase
-Valet mode
-Security pin
-What ever else I am missing.
Don't have to spend any more money and time on tunes.

Cons with staying with APR-
Changing the tune to fit your needs has rarely been done for a customer.
DSG tune can't handle more then K04 power.
Not the greatest support-It took them weeks to have my stage 3 tune ready and the tune sucked. The tune should have been ready when they sold the kit to the shop that installed it. It should have been a vanilla file on their server for a stage 3 TSI motor but they didn't have one?
Not the greatest customer service.
Several products on back order or slow in being manufactured.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

I haven't decided, but I'm either going UM or Eurodyne. I may end up going Eurodyne because their home shop in Ottowa is going to be one of the closest tuners to me anyway, and Maestro is basically like having the bells and whistles of a SEM system while keeping the Bosch ME7 ECU and not having to re-wire anything. 

As for the DSG, I have HPA's stage 3 and I'm quite happy with it. I don't see a reason to switch even if I go UM; as long as the ECU lets the TCU control the rev limiter, I'm all set there.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Not an update, but there's been a few questions about the Passat control arms and installing them into these cars, so I decided to re-post this from my previous thread.



> Putting in new aluminum control arms was actually one of the more difficult things I've had to do. I went with OEM Passat control arms; Part number 3C0407151KT. These appear to be the same as the superpro ones that are popular lately, and can be found for $100 less, although they aren't polished like the superpro ones. The reason it was so difficult is this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## ceese (Jul 2, 2011)

Cheers


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Brakes*

Worked on my brakes today. First, I removed the crossover tube from the Brembos up front. With the boxster setup, you can do one of three things:

1. Put the caliper on the appropriate side, but leave the crossover tubes on top. This leaves the bleeder valves on the bottom, because on a boxster, the brakes sit at the rear of the rotor, not the front. This means that you'll have the larger and smaller pistons in the right position, but you have to unbolt the calipers and flip them to bleed the brakes. 

2. Same as above, but remove the crossover tube, remove the bleeder valves, and swap them. Pistons on the appropriate side, and bleeder valves in the right place. 

3. Don't swap the crossover tubes, and put the caliper on the opposite side (Left caliper on the right side of the car and vice versa.)

I didn't want to do 3 because of uneven pad wear, and I've been doing number 1 in the almost 2 years I've had these on the car. 

At this point, I'm giving a shout out to TBomb who clued me in to all of this. 

Crossover tube:















I also upgraded the rears. The calipers are technically off a TTRS, but they're the same as the golf R, just black instead of the .:R blue color. I paired them with centric rotors and raybestos pads.

A note of the Raybestos pads... there's different levels of these. Yes, they're cheap. But the higher end version offers a full ceramic compound with great properties. They aren't as good as some of the high-end stuff, but the way I go through rear pads, especially, makes me think they're worth it. At $16 a set, I can go through three sets of these before the cost catches up to stoptechs, and they last me just as long.


BEFORE:














AFTER:














Flushed the system with ATE typ 200. Sadly, I'm not done with the brakes, but I am getting close to being done. There's a few more things I want to do, but this is probably it for a while until after the engine and turbo upgrades are complete. 

Thanks for reading.


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## skater3820 (Sep 15, 2002)

You should take a look at my build on www.facebook.com/nolimitsmotor A lot of "similar" stuff but I really think you'll like where I'm going with this.

Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

skater3820 said:


> You should take a look at my build on www.facebook.com/nolimitsmotor A lot of "similar" stuff but I really think you'll like where I'm going with this.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk


I have, and it's coming along nicely. I'm really jealous of the 034 rear trailing arms. I want them, but can't justify the price at the moment. My next big expense is going to be the valvetrain; now that the bottom end is done I want to get it to where it can rev higher / stronger in prep for the turbo setup.


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## skater3820 (Sep 15, 2002)

Need an extra 3.2 for that? I may be selling due to finding a very "special" motor I want to swap in

Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

skater3820 said:


> Need an extra 3.2 for that? I may be selling due to finding a very "special" motor I want to swap in
> 
> Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk


No, thanks though. My car is a 2 liter, and seeing how I just finished an internals build, a 3.2 wouldn't make a lot of sense. So what are you doing, a 2.5 RS motor?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Not a big update, but progress is progress. So, remember how I said I wasn't happy with the brakes? Well, one of the issues is the bleeder valves. I want to get speed bleeders all around, but can't justify the cost right now. The bleeder valves on the rear brakes were completely messed up. When I bled the brakes a few days back they were really hard to open and close. Not sure if the guy I bought them from overtorqued or what, but this is what they looked like:














You can see how the threads were mushroomed out, and uneven, not to mention the dirt and gunk in there. My stock calipers used the same size bleeders, so I swapped those on and bled the brakes again at all 4 corners. Car feels way better now, even if it's in my head over some OCD. Based on the bleeding difficulty, though, I do think that there was some slight air contamination. 


I also got these in the mail today:














A couple of brand new F.A.G. wheel sets! Also known as bearing / hub combo. *** is the OEM supplier, but if you get it without the VW/Audi logo it costs significantly less. 


Since I have no excuse now, I started some minor assembly before I have to do the hard part and remove the suspension.














So that's it for now. Guessing it will be a few weeks before another update. I have a weeklong family vacation starting next week, and I absolutely have to get another chapter of my Master's thesis in before we go. Thanks for reading.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

Make sure you get the appropriate OEM retaining nut and caliper bolts for the aluminum spindle :thumbup:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

I have the caliper bolts. Which retaining nut are you talking about; the one that clamps the back of the spindle together, or something else? I probably have it, but I'm a little confused.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> I have the caliper bolts. Which retaining nut are you talking about; the one that clamps the back of the spindle together, or something else? I probably have it, but I'm a little confused.


Sorry, the tie rod end nut. It has a larger flanged base. IIRC if you reuse the one for steel spindles, the diameter of the nut is roughly the same size as the steel insert in the alum spindle.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

Same with the ball joint.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

For the tie rod end, I think it's the opposite. Looking at them, the ones on my car currently are shouldered, while the pics of the ones for the B6 passat show no shoulder, but the thread dimensions are the same. As for the ball joint, I'm using the superpro adjustable ones, and the nut there fits fine, no issues. If you look at the pic, I already have them mocked up, and I'm not running into any problems there. If something changes or I do run into issues, I'll post it so that others don't run into the same mistakes / problems.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

The main thing is to be in contact with the aluminum, not just the steel insert. In rare (probably very rare?) cases, the insert can come loose from the casting.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Ok, I get what you're saying. Superpro supplies a rather large washer with the ball joint kit, so no worries there. I'll double check the tie rod end when I do the install.


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## skater3820 (Sep 15, 2002)

npace said:


> No, thanks though. My car is a 2 liter, and seeing how I just finished an internals build, a 3.2 wouldn't make a lot of sense. So what are you doing, a 2.5 RS motor?


Maybe... 

Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk


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## PreMier (Jan 4, 2006)

im a bit jelly of your progress. things seem to be moving along nicely. im curious how much better you'll like the spherical rod ends (let us know when you decide to assemble and sell them :laugh: ).


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

PreMier said:


> im a bit jelly of your progress. things seem to be moving along nicely. im curious how much better you'll like the spherical rod ends (let us know when you decide to assemble and sell them :laugh: ).


Haha! I actually thought about offering to do something like this. Not sure what people would want to pay for a series of one-off end links, however. 034 motorsport makes a really nice set, but they charge $245 plus shipping, which is why I went the DIY route. If anyone was interested in these, I could probably be convinced to make a few sets for you guys at cost, but I probably wouldn't get to them until September - October.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Running out of time.....

I'm not as far along as I's like to be, so for those of you following along, I'm sorry. Between trying to finish school, the move (movers are on their way to my house right now), an upcoming deployment, and fatherhood, getting the suspension finalized and put on before the move was too much. The good news is that I should be able to do it rather quickly once in the new house. I won't be confined to an outdoor gravel parking space next to a sort-of garage / shed combo. I'll have a legit two car garage with a workbench and space for tools. 

Thanks again to everyone who reads this. Hope to have a real update soon.


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## PreMier (Jan 4, 2006)

npace said:


> Running out of time.....
> 
> I'm not as far along as I's like to be, so for those of you following along, I'm sorry. Between trying to finish school, the move (movers are on their way to my house right now), an upcoming deployment, and fatherhood, getting the suspension finalized and put on before the move was too much. The good news is that I should be able to do it rather quickly once in the new house. I won't be confined to an outdoor gravel parking space next to a sort-of garage / shed combo. I'll have a legit two car garage with a workbench and space for tools.
> 
> Thanks again to everyone who reads this. Hope to have a real update soon.


Life happens, be safe wherever youre sent off to, and good luck with the move.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

I thought I might as well update the thread as some things are in progress and I'm making moves toward working on the car again. I finished my Master's and graduate tomorrow, so that's one obstacle out of the way. I can't believe it's been over a month since I've even seen the A3; the movers picked up our stuff and the wife and I met them at the new house where we left the car and all of our other belongings. 

In the meantime, I've been shopping for another vehicle. When I took an assignment up north, my wife made me promise that we would get a boat for the summers, since the winters are so long and cold. Between the A3 and my wife's Subaru, neither of us could actually tow a boat, so getting something with a real tow capability seemed to be the first thing I needed to do before just buying a boat. Since the Subaru is a 98, it also made sense that the wife should really get a nice vehicle, so the plan was a decent family hauler with truck-like capability. She also wanted a third row seat so we could take the whole family to the lake in one vehicle. It took a long time to find something; we shopped Ford Expeditions, Chevy Tahoes and Suburbans, Nissan Armadas, Toyota Sequoias, we even looked at a 1989 Suburban with a 6" lift and 37" tires. 

Finally, we ended up with this:
















2013 Lincoln Navigator L. It has pretty much everything. Tow package, 4WD, power liftgate, power third-row seat, navigation, sunroof, etc, etc. 
To me, the gauges are what really sets it apart from it's expedition sibling.




























Probably not the update some of you were hoping for, but I'll be reunited with the A3 in less than a week. A few days for unpacking, and I can get back to work again before the deployment kicks off. Thanks again to anyone who's interested and / or reading this.


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## prestigious_clique (Nov 30, 2015)

npace said:


> I thought I might as well update the thread as some things are in progress and I'm making moves toward working on the car again. I finished my Master's and graduate tomorrow, so that's one obstacle out of the way. I can't believe it's been over a month since I've even seen the A3; the movers picked up our stuff and the wife and I met them at the new house where we left the car and all of our other belongings.
> 
> In the meantime, I've been shopping for another vehicle. When I took an assignment up north, my wife made me promise that we would get a boat for the summers, since the winters are so long and cold. Between the A3 and my wife's Subaru, neither of us could actually tow a boat, so getting something with a real tow capability seemed to be the first thing I needed to do before just buying a boat. Since the Subaru is a 98, it also made sense that the wife should really get a nice vehicle, so the plan was a decent family hauler with truck-like capability. She also wanted a third row seat so we could take the whole family to the lake in one vehicle. It took a long time to find something; we shopped Ford Expeditions, Chevy Tahoes and Suburbans, Nissan Armadas, Toyota Sequoias, we even looked at a 1989 Suburban with a 6" lift and 37" tires.
> 
> ...


Cant wait to see the progress on the a3. That SUV is huge!

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Update time*

Got home from work today, and started what I intended to be a simple oil change.... first one since break-in with the new bottom end. Probably should have done it a while ago but it's still got less than 5k miles since the install. 


Motul oil















New filter














ECS had the OEM oil filters on sale for less than the Mann ones, so that's what I went with.

I'm happy to report that upon inspecting the magnetic oil plug, there's a little bit of metal bits, which is to be expected with new piston rings, but no large chunks of metal or anything catastrophic looking. 















That was going to be all I did but I was standing there and thinking, "I'm never going to get the car the way I want it if I keep putting it off." So I loosened the axle bolt and wheel bolts, lifted the car, and started taking apart the front suspension so I can put in the new bits. 


I was a little concerned when I got off the axle bolt; the red loctite is nowhere to be found on it, and it has the faint smell of transmission oil. This is what it looked like when I removed it:















I can't find evidence of a DSG leak, so I'm thinking maybe I drove through a puddle of transmission fluid because someone busted their transmission oil pan at some point. :screwy:



With that out of the way, I proceeded to go through the process of removing stuff to get it out of the way for the new goodness. Took a little effort, but I got the tie rod end loose with a pickle fork.















After removing the brake caliper, rotor, wheel hub, steering knuckle / spindle, hub speed sensor, and ball joint, I finally got the strut / spring out.















So now, the wheel well is empty, and this is what it looks like:












Tomorrow, I plan to do the other side and get the ohlins coilovers, aluminum spindles, homemade endlinks, new adjustable ball joints, and new hubs in. I may even get the rears done, time permitting. I'm excited to drive it with the new suspension setup; should be fun. 

That's it for now. Thanks for reading.


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## mypixeladdiction (Dec 1, 2011)

opcorn:


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

I hope you're replacing that tie rod end. 

FYI this works even better than a pickle fork and doesn't damage the boot. 

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3...t_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KX6ACN7AKBHMRCR7NSBM


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Nope. The boot's not damaged, it just looks that way in the pic.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

:thumbup:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Suspension installed....*

Well, I got it all on the car and buttoned up.


This is the new hotness:

















Almost everything on the front suspension is new (minus the tie rod end  ). 


Taking a top down approach; I replaced the upper strut nut with a new OEM one. The thread pitch is the same, and the one that the ohlins came with was pretty gnarly. If you recall, I got the dampers used and had them rebuilt by ohlins USA, then stripped and painted them. 

The 034 density upper strut mounts looked good, so I simply cleaned them and re-used them.















The upper strut bearings were also still good, but for what I put into this, a new set was pretty cheap insurance, so I got those as well.















Altogether, this is the setup before going on the car. Although, I'm probably going to remove the strut and take out the helper springs; they're basically compressed all the way and not doing much "helping". 
















Unfortunately, I still can't drive the car: The wheel stud conversion I did a while back kept me from finishing. I thought I would be able to just remove and re-use them, but they're stuck on the old hub / bearing assembly for good. Also, as you'll probably recall, I got new front hubs / bearings. Here's a pic of it all installed, with the aluminum spindles. Superpro adjustable ball joints are on here as well, but you can't really see 'em:















The hub isn't shiny here because it's got anti-seize on it before the brake rotor goes on. The studs are old ones that are too short to fit with the spacers that my brembo brakes require.  

Also, you don't see it here, but getting the caliper back on was a huge PITA. For anyone that does this with a brembo brake conversion, I recommend you remove the bracket from the caliper to get it on. I wrestled with it forever trying with the caliper attached. Once I installed the bracket by itself, it all went together no problem. 

Really, it's all mocked up, because I realized I forgot to install the strut retention bolt. Since I'm pulling the strut back off to remove the helper spring, it's better anyway. 

Once the new wheel studs get here and I take it for a ride, I'll let you all know my impressions.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

I forget what spring specs you are using. I blew off the helper spring, too. The sway bar keeps it all compressed in normal use, unless you go all General Lee.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

The springs are 300 lb/in in the front and 350 in the rear. 

This last weekend, I got the time and got everything finished. Once I did, the alignment specs were really out of whack. I planned on getting an alignment anyway, but it was ridiculous how far off everything was, especially front toe settings. It was so bad, the tires were screaming on the way to the alignment shop. My guess is that because the aluminum spindles are shaped different than stock, the tie rod ends have to be moved outward to have toe within spec. 


Here's a pic of what I'm talking about:

















You can really see what I mean here, the steering wheel is straight but the wheel on the ground is facing out. It looked the same on the other side.

The other thing that's noticeable is the monster truck clearance. I left it that way for the time being. It was even worse in the rear:
















The rear settled quite a bit, however. The front stayed pretty high. I'll probably get everything back where it needs to be this weekend in terms of height. I've also got winter tires on the way, as the current ones basically have no tread left and need to be replaced anyway. 

Another thing about this setup is the rear springs. Unlike other coilover kits, the rears are designed to have the spring perch sit inside the lower control arm, instead of up top. For height adjustment, this sucks. I was able to flip it upside down, but I'm not entirely happy with it just sitting and rubbing against the body the way it is. Putting the rubber mount in place won't work because the threaded portion cups around the protruding section of the body that holds the mount, but with the rubber mount it would just sit flush and be un-stable. 


Here's what I'm talking about: 















If anyone has suggestions for a better way to do this, please let me know. 

The final alignment specs are zero toe all around, and -1.6 degrees of camber. I asked for -2, but the adjustable ball joints maxed out at -1.6. I don't really want camber plates, so I'm okay with where things are. 

Lastly, ride impressions. The ohlins are amazing. I can't believe how smooth the ride is, and yet the car handles better than I hoped for. With the Bilstein struts and VWR springs it handled really well, but now turn-in and response is even sharper and more predictable, with a smoother ride. I have the shocks set at 7 clicks from full stiff (they have 20 clicks of adjustment). I'm really looking forward to seeing how it handles in the snow. I highly recommend this mod to anyone that tracks their car or does autocross. It seriously transformed the driving experience.


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## ceese (Jul 2, 2011)

Looking good :thumbup:


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

I used hollow wall expansion anchors to hold the adjusters on the top. I'm just going to monitor for corrosion when I remember because we don't have road salt here in WA.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

JRutter said:


> I used hollow wall expansion anchors to hold the adjusters on the top. I'm just going to monitor for corrosion when I remember because we don't have road salt here in WA.


Did you use a toggle bolt like this:














Or something else?


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

More like this.


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## ceese (Jul 2, 2011)

JRutter said:


> I forget what spring specs you are using. I blew off the helper spring, too. The sway bar keeps it all compressed in normal use, unless you go all General Lee.


Or live in downtown Seattle.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

ceese said:


> Or live in downtown Seattle.


or drive like ceese :laugh:


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## A3-Owner (Aug 10, 2015)

I see you threw in your hat for the rear diff. Cool.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Yeah, I wasn't going to because of cost, but after a lot of thought, I figured I would rather go open front and limited slip rear than the other way around. New turbo and head rebuild will just have to wait a little longer is all. I don't plan on getting rid of the car, so it's not like I'm really on a time crunch.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

A3-Owner said:


> I see you threw in your hat for the rear diff. Cool.





npace said:


> Yeah, I wasn't going to because of cost, but after a lot of thought, I figured I would rather go open front and limited slip rear than the other way around. New turbo and head rebuild will just have to wait a little longer is all. I don't plan on getting rid of the car, so it's not like I'm really on a time crunch.


So someone is finally making a rear limited slip for the 8P? opcorn:


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

I love this thread. 

Sent from my Igloo


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## A3-Owner (Aug 10, 2015)

TBomb said:


> So someone is finally making a rear limited slip for the 8P? opcorn:


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7257946-Rear-LSD-Golf-VI-R/page7

Here is the forum post in the Golf R MK6 section.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Yep. Wavetrac is doing a limited run. It's expensive, but not too much more than the cost of one for the front. There's some special machining involved, but since it's an entire diff replacement, it's something I can install myself. The front is a different story; you have to drop the transmission and drill out the studs holding in the ring gear to put it in. So when you factor in installation, this is actually cheaper.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Well, I'm at a loss for what to do about the rear LSD. The group buy thread got locked because MFactory jumped in and started making accusations and getting all defensive. Basically, they were going to do a group buy but couldn't get 30 people on board, so it disintegrated. Issam from INA jumped in and worked out a deal with wavetrac to get it done, but the thread got locked yesterday and now no response from Issam who was running the GB. Hopefully this all works out......

Edit: Group buy is back on. For anyone interested in a rear LSD, here's the link: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?8268017-VW-GOLF-MK6-R-MK5-R32-Front-amp-Rear-Wavetrac-LSD-Thread-Group-Buy&p=100753753&posted=1#post100753753


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Realized it's been quite a while since I've updated this. I got winter tires put on the stock wheels right before Thanksgiving, and it's a good thing I did... we've had something like 2 feet of snow between Thanksgiving and today. That and the temps have made for some really icy roads. 

















I went with continental wintercontacts that I got on sale on Amazon with free prime shipping. I was able to take these over to the shop and install them myself for $12 per wheel. All told, I saved over $300 off of what a local shop wanted me to pay to have a set of blizzaks installed. I've never had those tires, but I'm really happy with these. I literally have to floor it through corners to get the rear end to break loose... the grip on these on ice with the competition controller is amazing. 

That's all for an update for now. Temps here are ranging in the below zero to low teen ranges, and I have some parts stacking up again, but my garage isn't heated, and the weather makes it really easy to be lazy. Next big items should be seats and the rear diff.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Late update*

I'm still doing stuff on the car, but life took control for a little while. Back in May when I was pulling off the winter wheel / tire combo, I noticed that there was a significant amount of rust on a large portion of the suspension. I took everything apart and stripped the shocks / struts down again and re-painted them. This time I used a 2-phase primer that I got from Eastwood, along with their chassis paint. The primer is amazing. 2 coats adhered and hardened to the struts really well, and did a great job of promoting paint adhesion. 

I also got new tires and wheels on the car, and have adjusted the suspension. I completely eliminated pre-load on the sway bars, and I now have a set of Recaros to install, as well as a bunch of parts for a battery relocate. I'll post pics in a few days, but thought I should post an update.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

npace said:


> I'm still doing stuff on the car, but life took control for a little while. Back in May when I was pulling off the winter wheel / tire combo, I noticed that there was a significant amount of rust on a large portion of the suspension. I took everything apart and stripped the shocks / struts down again and re-painted them. This time I used a 2-phase primer that I got from Eastwood, along with their chassis paint. The primer is amazing. 2 coats adhered and hardened to the struts really well, and did a great job of promoting paint adhesion.
> 
> I also got new tires and wheels on the car, and have adjusted the suspension. I completely eliminated pre-load on the sway bars, and I now have a set of Recaros to install, as well as a bunch of parts for a battery relocate. I'll post pics in a few days, but thought I should post an update.


Glad to hear an update on the car. What's the status with the rear diff?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

The rear diff is dead. I was tipped off by another forum member who was tipped off by someone else in the GB who called wavetrac direct. It seems Wavetrac was unable to make it work, so refunds were issued. I was in the field for about a month and missed everything going on, but I'm all caught up now. 

I got this in the mail. Twice. 















So yesterday, I took the car to the dealer and had the steering wheel airbag replaced under recall. Now if I get in an accident, at least I know it won't be shrapnel in my neck that kills me.... not from the airbag, anyway. 

Also, I've been working on a few things.

First, last winter was not kind to my sh*tty paint job on my coilovers. 
So I pulled them off, and stripped them again in response. 














The mistake I made last time was not using a primer to coat them first. This time I went with Eastwood's 2k primer. Really good stuff for what you can get in a spray can. It's a 2 stage primer where you puncture an inner can and shake it together to paint. It makes a nice coat that hardens to the metal really well. Even if the paint comes off, the primer's probably on there for good. 













For the paint, I stuck with Eastwood and used their extreme chassis paint... so far so good. Pretty standard stuff, and I can't complain. Comes out in a nice satin finish. 













Some of you may remember that I made one off end links for the front suspension. Well, they weren't long enough for how low I had the car, and I didn't have the time to tap and thread a new center section before driving to Nashville for a reunion. So, I gave in and got the 034 motorsport end links. They're on the expensive side, but they are really good quality, and I think they're the best you can buy without making your own because you get spherical rod ends and they are long enough for any application. I also upgraded to poly sway bar bushings, which make a nice difference. 























Also, new wheels and rubber. I got enkei fujin wheels because they are my favorite combination: cheap and lightweight. They weigh in at just under 16 lbs each, and with rubber they are significantly lighter than the stock wheels and tires. I got them wrapped in falken azenis tires, which are really fast and grippy. 













I like the wheels, but I'm not jazzed about the center caps. I'm looking for a set of audi logo ones I can throw on them, but haven't settled on any yet. 

Finally, new old seats out of an S4. Matching Recaros, to be exact. These came a little worn, so I went to work cleaning and re-finishing them. The results are pretty good as you can see on the before and after, but I'm not super happy with the color match of the dye / finish... it's a little off and left more beige than the original color. I even colored another piece of leather and compared the two. It looked like a perfect match before I started. I'm considering just having them reupholstered. If anyone's messed with seats like this and has suggestions, feel free to provide them. 



Before:













After:














That's it for now, but there's already some more stuff on the way, and I've got some other ideas about what's to come this spring. 

Oh, and one more thing. I'm getting pretty sick of photobucket, so if anyone knows of a better photo hosting service, I'm all ears.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Good stuff...except for the diff


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Forgot to add that I switched to SmugMug. . .Figured if I am paying for a service, I'll get a better one, with a better phone app.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

I use flickr and it's been awesome and free lol

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

I got out of flickr when they started messing with linking, to photobucket who started messing with linking, to smugmug...Much better interface, much better app :thumbup:



Ponto said:


> I use flickr and it's been awesome and free lol
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*It's been a long time*

It's been a long time since I've posted anything here, but I actually am making slow progress, and now have something big in the works. 

Let's get started:

First, I installed the tyrolsport rear subframe collars. Fronts have been on for quite a while now, but just got the rears. No pics, but I literally took the car out maybe twice this last winter, and there was a lot more surface corrosion than I expected. So I've been dealing with that. I also got around to putting on new front swaybar bushings. 













These ones from powerflex are pretty nice. Getting the swaybar out was a huge PITA though. Also, to do this, you have to pull the swaybar out and drill out the backside of the bracket to get the old bushings out (and be able to install the new ones). 

Like this:













But those are small things. The big news is that I've been slowly collecting parts for this car's intended purpose. The main reason I have this car (and mod it) is for the enjoyment of driving it. In my opinion, there is nothing more fun than a manual, but I also wanted AWD, so when I bought the car I compromised. No more. I'm doing a transmission swap, and keeping AWD. 

Here's the manual transmission I bought:













What's really cool about it is it came off of an A3, so I'm not putting VW parts on my Audi 













Another member on the forum was parting out, so I got the shift box, clutch master and assembly, brake pedal and master, and various other parts that I'll need. 

























I've also already ordered a short shift kit, and all of the delrin bushings available from diesel geek. Some of it is a case of "while you're in there" but in the pic below you can see how the side to side bushing was starting to disintegrate already.












This is going to be a pretty big undertaking, at least for me anyway. I still need the following parts to actually be able to do this:

1. Differential. AWD and FWD transmissions have different output splines, on an AWD diff you need the output splines for the transfer case. This is literally the only difference, so I bought a FWD transmission for $500, and will get a LSD for $900, totaling $1400. I could not find an appropriate AWD transmission for anything less than $1600, so I get a LSD for $200 less. This is the only place I'm getting a win in the money department. 

2. Clutch. Don't have one yet, lots of options. I'm leaning toward a BFI kit, but if anyone has any recommendations, I'm interested. I need something that can hold at least 450 ft-lbs. 

3. Shift knob and boot. I already have one in mind, and it's going to be pretty cool, I think. 

4. Rear main seal. Another "while you're in there" thing. Probably going to get the upgraded one, if my wallet can support. 

5. Bolts. These are the ones that hold on the manual transmission. They're different length than the DSG ones. 

6. Starter motor, this is also different. 

7. The biggest issue is going to be coding. VCDS will let you tell the computer that you have a manual, but it still looks for DSG inputs. This will require a new tune. Looking into different options, but I think I've settled on one. 

This whole thing is going to take a while, especially the tune. I probably won't finish until January if I'm being realistic. In the meantime, I'll keep you all posted on the exploits I do with this. I've also got the parts and stuff organized for a battery relocate, as well as a few other interesting things.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Also worth mentioning: if anyone knows where I can get a wiring diagram for the clutch switch and the 2 pin reverse light switch I would appreciate it. I'm going ot have to read up and figure this part out as well because I know next to nothing when it comes to electrical stuff.


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## AngryGiraffe (Sep 21, 2014)

opcorn:


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

Stay away from the BFI clutch kit. 

It's smaller than stock and fails.

The HSTuning TTRS clutch kits are good.

Sachs Performance (buy directly from sachs and it's cheaper) is also good if you have high HP#s in mind.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

I thought the BFI kits were made by clutch masters; also it's what HumbleMechanic recommends. :shrug:

I looked at the HS tuning kit, but it is expensive and I would still have to buy a factory DMF.... if spending that kind of money I'd rather get a lightweight flywheel in the kit. 

The sachs kit with a lighter flywheel is over $1600, which is more than the entire transmission with LSD. Otherwise, it's the same issue as with the HS Tuning kit. 

There are a ton of options out there that aren't as limiting, but thanks for the advice.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> I thought the BFI kits were made by clutch masters; also it's what HumbleMechanic recommends. :shrug:
> 
> I looked at the HS tuning kit, but it is expensive and I would still have to buy a factory DMF.... if spending that kind of money I'd rather get a lightweight flywheel in the kit.
> 
> ...


Comp clutch. It's the design APR rejected. Surprised HumbleMechanic didn't pick up on the size difference. Plenty of people with the failed BFI clutches now. I'd even take a southbend over it.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

crew219 said:


> Comp clutch. It's the design APR rejected. Surprised HumbleMechanic didn't pick up on the size difference. Plenty of people with the failed BFI clutches now. I'd even take a southbend over it.


Makes sense. After more research, I may actually go with this clutch masters kit: http://www.clutchmasters.com/fx300-17375-hdtz-shp/

The HS Tuning kit does sound good as well; I just wish I could use a lighter flywheel with it.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Diesel Geek parts came in today:














Obviously not installing the short shift kit yet, as that will have to wait until the transmission is in the car. 
I did, however, go ahead and install the bushings on the shift box, as it's easier with it out of the car. 

Probably the biggest change is what they call their 1st gear getter. For reference, here's the before; you can see the amount of play with the old bushing:













And here's the shift box with all the new bushings installed including the 1st gear getter and the shaft bushings:












What you can't see are the cable end bushings inside the box. I only installed one of those two, as you have to drill a hole in the opposite side of the box to get to the other one. I'm not sure how I feel about doing that; I'm sure it isn't a huge deal, but it feels kind of wrong. Also, it's interesting to note that DG told me the first gear getter may not fit on mk5 or mk6 boxes, but I didn't have an issue. You can probably see that I had to use pliers to force the bushing in, but that's the extent of the difficulty I had, not a big deal at all. This took about 20 minutes for 4 of the five bushings, and that was with me taking my time and putting things together and pulling apart several times to ensure proper operation. 

I've got more stuff on it's way for the swap, notably some tools to help with the job (transmission jack and engine support bar) plus I'm slowly buying all the little extras as I get paid.


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## A3-Owner (Aug 10, 2015)

There was a reason I subscribed to this thread.....


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

If I do go with the HS Tuning clutch, does anyone know if there's a significant difference (other than cost) between the sachs or luk one?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Got to work on the battery relocate today. First, I removed the battery, battery tray, and tyrol mc brace, and found a suitable place for the switch bracket:














So much more room for activities! I decided I should sort of mock everything up, so the first next thing was get the new positive cable (actually a welding cable) to check the length.














Once I had a good idea of routing and a new home for the cable, I did the end terminal for the switch side. 














I decided to route the cable above the underbody cover on the driver's side, and then through the e-brake cable bracket on the rear trailing arm, like so: 














There's just enough room to push it through and for it to live side by side with the e-brake cable. The next step made me pretty nervous; I cut the end off the OEM positive cable and starter cable to make the new setup as seamless as possible, and put a ring terminal on the resulting loose ends. 




































This is the final result in the engine bay: 














I still need to connect the battery in the back because I haven't figured out the final routing location into the back hatch area. I also have to put a new negative cable together, because the stock one isn't long enough. Audi was thoughtful enough, however, to leave a negative battery bracket in the rear hatch area. The other thing I did was clean out all the AC cooler fins to remove blockage. I've had the front bumper off for a while now,and figured that cleaning this crap was something I should do while it was off. The second pic is all the garbage I got out of there that collected on the inside of the radiator core support. 


























That's about it for now, but there's more coming.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

That reminds me, if anyone wants the tyrolsport master cylinder bracket, let me know. I'll be putting it up for sale soon.


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## kill-p (Aug 4, 2008)

How were you able to manage to install the sway bar bushings if there is no slit on them to slide them over the bar?


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## dman4486 (Jun 22, 2011)

southbend clutch. stage 2 endurance. awesome clutch. put mine in when i went stage 1 tune. 

https://www.southbendclutch.com/clutches/4734/

and one of these to allow quick engagement

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/6-speed-clutch-bleeder-block/001284ecs01kt/


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

kill-p said:


> How were you able to manage to install the sway bar bushings if there is no slit on them to slide them over the bar?



They slit open, it's just hard to see in the pic. 





dman4486 said:


> southbend clutch. stage 2 endurance. awesome clutch. put mine in when i went stage 1 tune.
> 
> https://www.southbendclutch.com/clutches/4734/
> 
> ...



Thanks for the tip, I appreciate it. I was going to ask if anyone had a billet bleeder block and if it was worth it, so thanks again for that. 


I've got some other stuff going on, but should have another update pretty soon....


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

I am still working on this, but it's been difficult to get to with everything. My wife gave birth to our second child, another boy, and with the parade of family members coming to visit and my military duties not taking a break, getting the time to work on and document everything has been difficult. 

First, I didn't like the center caps on the enkei wheels I have, so I took some measurements and ordered some cheap generic chrome ones from amazon. Then I found center cap stickers on fleabay with the audi rings. Came all the way from Ukraine:

























Meanwhile, while messing around with the clutch pedal and doing mock-up, I smashed the crap out of my thumb. It's tie-dye purple now:














I ended up doing another suspension refresh / upgrade. This time I quit screwing around and got tubular front control arms with spherical bearings. You can see in the pic how they compare to the aluminum passat ones:














They allow for a greater deal of camber adjustment than the roll control ball joints. I also believe the stock joints are superior in quality to the roll control ones, so I got some new stock ones and went with those.


























While I was in there, I basically refreshed all the wearable suspension components, sans coilovers since those only have about 3k miles on them since the rebuild.















I also decided to get everything as clean as possible, which required removal of the plastics and a hose down with simple green. It isn't 100% perfect, but that will get dirty when I drive again anyway. I just wanted to get what was left of the winter salt / sand off. 














While all this was going on, the OEM / stock battery died for good. This led to me getting a new lightweight battery and investing in a battery tender. In retrospect, I could've got an 11 lb battery, but the 15 lb one is nice. It's only 4 lbs difference, so not a huge deal. At the end of the day, adding lightness is always good. 







































After all that, I decided to do a quick drive to try everything out. Lots of grinding was going on.... uh oh. I went back to the garage, and discovered that the front brake rotors looked like this:















What an idiotic thing to do. I forgot to tighten the axle bolts fully, allowing the caliper to come in contact with the rotor surface and shave away all that material.
So it was new rotors and pads from stoptech. I also got new 5mm spacers from 42 Draft Designs. They're works of art. The wider ones I had from H&R were nice and fit well, but these are even lighter and fit perfect. I went with 5mm because I thought the old 12mm ones stuck out too far and gave the car a weird look, while these keep the wheels as close to the hub as possible without coming into contact with the bigger brakes. 














I also finally put some new RS shims in the brake calipers / on the backs of the pads, which are supposed to help significantly with pad wear and braking surface area. 














I think that's about everything. This is what it looks like now:














I'm still gathering the final pieces for the transmission swap. I already bought all the necessary new TTY bolts, which was expensive in its own right. A new upper radiator hose and heater hose are required since there's no trans cooler, plus a different starter. I'm also in the process of sourcing the correct differential (lsd of course), and need a clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel. There's a few more items in store with some more plans in the works, such as upgrading the rear suspension to match the front. I'll be taking the car to UM to get the tune / computer worked out to support the transmission swap. 

That's it for now, but I will keep posting updates as I continue to make progress. Thanks to everyone who's still reading / interested in this. It seems like the forums are dying a bit, but this is the best place to catalog everything, unless I get my own blog page, but who has time for that?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Fall colors


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## cleanA3 (Jun 23, 2007)

Looking real good 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## PreMier (Jan 4, 2006)

sucks about the rotors! nice fall picture though


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## AngryGiraffe (Sep 21, 2014)

I miss fall on the east coast. Best time of the year out there for sure.


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

npace, you're doing a ton of work !! I don't understand where you still find time between the two kids family and your military duties :thumbup::thumbup:


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

Good progress, considering. Congrats on the family!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Got some rear suspension goodies in.... rear spherical trailing arm bearings to replace the rubber bushings and poly bushings for the spring perches. I'll update with pics when installed.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

This is taking way longer than expected.... mostly because I can't find the time to get work done. The break has been helpful. 

Cracked the trans and pulled the open diff today. 







































Tomorrow I'm going to the shop to remove the ring gear and set up the peloquin LSD. Still waiting on shim kit and steel shift forks to arrive before finishing everything up.... I'll post pics. 


I've also been working on some cosmetic details. I put together some custom headlights and did the front plate delete. I'll post pics later, as I'm also waiting on a few items to put the finishing touches on the headlights and re-install. 

I'm registered for WITW and the goal is to have the headlights complete and installed, trans in, car programmed, and suspension mods complete by then.


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## AngryGiraffe (Sep 21, 2014)

Nice man! Can't wait to see some more pictures of the progress.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

AngryGiraffe said:


> Nice man! Can't wait to see some more pictures of the progress.



Thanks! Got in to the shop today to remove the ring gear from the open, FWD diff and installed on the new LSD AWD diff. 




The ring gear removed:














I read a lot about how this was difficult, would take 3 hours to remove, etc, but I found that not to be the case. Instructions on peloquin's website say to use a smaller bit and step up to the 1/2", but with the dimples already on the rivets, I found that I could go directly to the 1/2" bit. I had a friend help and add oil as I pressed down to keep the bit from burning up. Once I got to the ring gear itself, I was able to use an air hammer with a chisel attachment to get the heads off, and then used the air hammer to drive the rivet back through the other side. It took about 30 minutes total with this method. 


Ring gear being pressed on the new diff:
















Peloquin's provides 4 bolts that are used just to evenly press the ring gear onto the new diff. 
















Ring gear installed. I used 30wt motor oil for the lubricant for the bolts. According to peloquin's, the ARP bolts get torqued to 105 ft-lbs, so that's what I did. 















Bearings pressed on and all boxed up, ready to go. It's sitting this way in the garage now. I still have to remove the old races and press the new ones into the case, and then adjust preload whenever the shims arrive with the steel shift forks. Plan is to remove the old races tonight and press in the new one on the side without the shim. Then, while I wait for parts to arrive, I'll start working on removing what I need to for the DSG removal.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Got the bearing races out.... terrible time. 














Everyone says the ring gear is the most difficult part of the process, but I disagree. I abused the original race to get it out.....














I don't know if you can see the inside, but I tried cutting with a dremel to remove it, but got nervous that I would get into the case underneath. After some research, I ended up finding out that a lot of people use a die grinder to remove material from the case above the race in order to get a punch in there and knock it out. This is especially important on the shim side as it allows access for removing / re-installing in order to get the correct backlash. 

I don't know if you can see it, but I took a pic of where I'm talking about grinding. 













The original race and shim are destroyed, but the new shim kit is on the way, and the diff came with a new race, so no issue. I'll probably grind a little more space for the punch and clean everything up before I test, shim, re-test, and repeat until final install. Fingers crossed that the shims and steel shift forks come in. 


I also had to remove the axle flange seal to do this, which destroyed the seal, even though I was careful. So now that's on order as well. 


Next day or two I plan to start removing the interior trim pieces, then the downpipe and DSG shifter. For anyone that's removed interior bits, what's the best way to go about this without breaking clips or scratching up the plastics? I have a trim removal tool set, but I have no idea how to start when it comes to disassembly of the center console.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

No pics, as I didn't get any "real" work done, but an update nonetheless. I spent several hours last night teaching myself how to read wiring diagrams and figured out where the reverse light sensor in the DSG Mechatronics connects on the big 20 pin connector. Than means I can keep most of the OE wiring for it and connect the manual reverse light sensor to that wire. 

Problem is, the manual transmission has 2 wires coming from the reverse light sensor, and the Wiring diagram for the DSG only shows one wire connecting to where I need it. My thought is maybe connect one of the others to ground? I'v also spent a lot of time looking at the canbus diagram, and no luck there either. I'm a little stumped on this one, so again, if anyone knows or has any ideas, please let me know. 

I still need to figure out the clutch position sensor as well, although that may be something that can be coded out when I get the car programmed after I finish the install.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Got started on the DSG removal today. I've been taking this slowly, but I plan to pick it up and have the DSG completely out tomorrow. Removed most of the stuff from the top side (starter, coolant hoses, wiring) and got the top bolts started on removal, including the "hidden" one behind the starter. 
















I also removed the front drive axles, and the flange on the driver's side. I got the bolt out for the passenger side flange, but cannot pull the flange itself. My thought is that it's geared in the transaxle that drives the rear wheels, meaning that I will have to pull the transmission toward the driver's side to release the front diff from the axle flange, if that makes sense. 















Also, a load of parts came in. Got the new clutch and flywheel. I ended up going with the RSR clutch from HS Tuning. Those guys are awesome, they even threw in a free T-shirt. 















They also include a complete hardware kit with this setup, which includes a new, metal OEM throwout bearing that should help with pedal feel. 















Now, if the steel shift forks and bearing race shims for the diff would get here...... ordered them before the clutch kit and they still haven't shipped. Super frustrating. 

As for the flywheel, the RSR clutch uses the factory DMF. I'm a little bummed about the car not being able to rev as quickly, but since this is still mostly a street car, it makes sense to keep the car as driveable as possible.

More to come as the DSG comes out and parts come in that will let me put the 02Q together.


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## Tjtalan (Jan 19, 2013)

Good work, I’m learning that they actually come apart relatively easily.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

What comes apart easy? The engine and the transmission or the transmission and the axle flange. After reading about it, it seems that I can either pull the transmission with the transaxle attached, or I can leave it in the car. If I leave it in the car, then the axle flange stays in, which means the diff has to line up to that at the same time the transmission lines up to the engine. It's a little harder, but I think that's the route I'm going.


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## Tjtalan (Jan 19, 2013)

It was literally a three hour out for me, remove the whole front end as one piece. Axles get disconnected, driveshaft gets disconnected, exhaust gets disconnected. Leave the engine and transmission together, and out.










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## Tjtalan (Jan 19, 2013)

Just make sure you have a load leveler.


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## Tjtalan (Jan 19, 2013)

I’m in the process as we speak, if you have any questions message me.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Still making steady progress, just slower going after going back to work following the winter break. 


I removed the fans / shroud and boost pipe for more space. Once I had the room, I decided to replace the upper radiator hose first. 



The old hose, with the provisions for the DSG cooler: 














And the new hose installed:














Then I disconnected / removed the driveshaft, followed by full removal of the subframe. 







































For anyone doing this, you either need to completely remove the steering rack, or have a jack ready to keep it supported. The subframe has to be separated from the steering rack; it's only three bolts but there are dowel pins on each side of the rack that hold them together.
















The hole where the transmission used to be:



























And one of several "while you're in there" moments: 034 motorsport transmission mount on the right, OEM mount on the left:















During the week I'm chipping away at this in small steps, like yesterday after work I removed the heat shield from under the car for access to the shift box. Today I plan to replace the lower heater core box coolant hose (the other coolant hose with the DSG cooler provision), get the DSG shift box removed, install the manual shift box, and start on the brake pedal and clutch master / pedal.


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## Tjtalan (Jan 19, 2013)

Great work, moving right along. Sometimes finding the time is the hardest part of the build.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Still going slow, but progress is progress. Part of my problem is finding motivation to go outside and do this, my garage is not heated, and it's been in the negatives for the past 5 days. 

Some of you may be interested in what I'm using.... a kerosene heater to warm up the area.
















Thanks to meth, I have to sign a form every time I go purchase fuel for it. 
The lower heater core hose is replaced, so now my cooling system is ready to be more efficient and not have to circulate through the transmission heat exchanger. 















The DSG removed, in all it's glory. 















And this, the transfer case, off the transmission:















I found it much easier to remove the transmission with the t-case on and leave the support bracket in place, but YMMV. 
The DSG DMF is a PITA to get off. I highly recommend the OEM flywheel retention tool, even though it's expensive for what it is.

You can see it below on the left side, but if anyone does this, my recommendation is to flip it and use it off the dowel position on the right side for removal, and use it as you see in the below pic for install of the replacement. 















And with the flywheel off, I'm on to other areas for removal of old parts before new ones start going on. I purchased a new rear main seal when I started this, but after seeing the one that's on there now, I have no intent to replace it. It's in really good shape. I'll hang on to the one I have, and replace in the future if needed. The catch can / breather setup I have is efficient, so I'm not worried about the seal blowing prematurely. 















And finally, parts came in so I can reassemble the manual transmission. First, the backlash shims. $100 seems like a waste of money for these, but unfortunately, there's really no other choice when replacing the diff. 















The steel shift forks are nice. I went with the OEM ones. They have an extra arm in the center for more precise engagement. 


























I also got started on removing everything needed under the car to replace the DSG shift box. The plastics and lower exhaust shield are out, the upper one is unbolted, but hanging in place because I need to remove the driveshaft to get clearance, and that may require removal of the exhaust. I really dodn't want to mess with the DP if I don't need to, but I'm probably crawling back under there tonight to get this sorted.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Got quite a bit done already, and with the long weekend I expect everything to be complete minus actually installing the transmission. Reason is that I had to order a new dial gauge so I can ensure proper spacing for the diff, which means I can't actually put all the bolts together on the case and put it in. 

I had to have a friend come and help put the gears in. I've heard of people doing this by themselves, but I have no idea how. 

Gears in one side of the transmission case:



























I also took the other half of the case to the parts washer at the shop where I work. Main reason was because grinding out some of the lip for the bearing race left metal shavings in there that I wanted to make sure were gone. 

Next was installing the clutch / flywheel. Since I went with the RSR kit, I was required to use an OE flywheel. I went with a LUK unit. 



























Clutch and pressure plate installed. Only thing is, I've read two specs for the pressure plate bolts, 15 ft.lbs and 20 ft. lbs. I torqued to 15, but have no idea if I need to go more. It seems plenty tight, but the last thing I want is to get the transmission on and have to remove again because there's too much play. I reached out to HS tuning to see what they recommend; I'll probably get an answer back on Tuesday. 















Removed the heat shield from under the car. This is what the DSG shift unit looks like from the bottom:















On to the pedals. Old:














As you can see, I found it necessary to remove the lower dash cover, but YMMV. The brake pedal has a very hard white plastic clip that I found impossible to remove by hand, whether I was going to break it or not. I ended up melting it out with a heat gun. Luckily, after hearing and reading about it, I was ready with a new one. Old melted one on the left, new one (with part number) in bag on right:















Installed in the (new to me) brake pedal:















And the narrow manual brake pedal is on the car, ready to go: 















For the clutch, there's a rubber cover for the hole to the master, and then another foam / rubber cover held in with metal clips. 

Removed: 















There's no fluid in the master, as I haven't connected it to the brake master yet, but now I have 4 pedals instead of 3: 













That's it for now. Tonight I expect to get the manual shift box in and the reverse light wiring. There's some other random stuff I'm working on too.... small things you notice when you remove something big like a transmission and it leaves other components exposed.


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## strangetdi (Feb 5, 2002)

Impressive work.


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## Tjtalan (Jan 19, 2013)

What is that third pedal for?

Looking good man! 


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*More progress*

I've gotten quite a bit done over the past week. Took longer than expected because the manual shift box is bigger than the DSG one, requiring the driveshaft to be unbolted from the rear as well as lowering the exhaust off the hangers. 

Shift box out:















Manual and DSG one side by side:
















And manual one installed: 
















I also had to replace the reverse light switch wire connector, the one I got with the part out was cracked and broken. Old one de-pinned:















All fixed, next to the old cracked one:














It's been snowing a ton here. This was yesterday afternoon; the previous day I cleared the cars and the driveway twice and this is what piled up overnight. After clearing it again yesterday, it was more of the same overnight. 
















Got the diff measured and shimmed:















Transmission is all back together with new covers and outer seals installed. I used Permatex grey to seal it, and followed the directions on the permatex label. Basically, you run a bead, put the case on, and hand tighten all the bolts to where the stuff just starts to squeeze out a little. Then you wait an hour and torque to spec (25 nm plus 1/4 turn according to the Bentley I have). 















I don't have pics, but I also installed the new throw out bearing. Tonight I'll put the shift tower in and all the sensors, bolt on the transaxle and actually bolt it to the engine. Once that's done I can put in and bleed the clutch line and start bolting everything up. Then it's on to wiring; after pouring over diagrams for countless hours, I think I figured it out. There's only a single wire off the DSG to J519 (the body control module). According to the Benltey, the body control module controls the reverse lights, so I should be able to run a positive lead (15a) from the fuse box to one of the sensor wires and plug the other one into the appropriate wire from the DSG plug. Fingers crossed. I'm still not sure how to run the clutch position sensor; when I get the care re-programmed I may just have it coded out because I'm not sure it's needed for anything. If anyone has more information about the wiring, let me know, I'd really appreciate it.


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## Tjtalan (Jan 19, 2013)

Great work, getting close!


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

Man. I step away from this forum for a little bit and come back to see this glorious-ness. Amazing work so far with the manual swap!

Edit: I just went back a page and realized that you are actually using a FWD trans, installing an AWD diff and moving the transfer case from your DSG over, is that right? If so, that's awesome and opens up a whole new world of dreaming...


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

TBomb said:


> Man. I step away from this forum for a little bit and come back to see this glorious-ness. Amazing work so far with the manual swap!
> 
> Edit: I just went back a page and realized that you are actually using a FWD trans, installing an AWD diff and moving the transfer case from your DSG over, is that right? If so, that's awesome and opens up a whole new world of dreaming...


That is correct / exactly what I'm doing. I realized it was possible after seeing some of the guys on the CC side of the forum who were converting FWD to AWD and using the same FWD transmission. I'm still worried about coding; once I get everything buttoned up I'm not sure that it will start because the ECU will be looking for a signal from the mechatronics unit, but we'll see. 

For everyone that's following: some of you may know that I'm in the Army. My unit went and did a JRTC rotation for the month of February, followed by supporting another unit's exercise at that location. I intended to have the transmission bolted up to the car before departing, but it didn't happen for a variety of reasons. I'm home and getting back on track. I'm also scheduled to move this summer, so pressure is on to get it running. 

For reasons mentioned above, I'm seriously concerned about my ability to get the car running in time, mostly based on programming. If anyone has any suggestions, I would really appreciate it.


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## PreMier (Jan 4, 2006)

man, i wish i could help, but ive never even researched something of this magnitude. I did a transfer case swap on my old explorer from electric to manual once.. but that was easy compared to this. Hopefully someone can offer some real advice.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

The manual transmission is in the car!!!!

This may not seem like a big deal, but getting the transmission to line up into the clutch splines and fit properly, by myself, working on the floor with no lift, was a huge ordeal. The transmission is heavy af and getting it lifted into place and lined up properly while pushing it to mate up with the engine was rough. 

Anyway, here's a pic of it in the car:















The transmission mount is all bolted up to the transmission now, and all the bolts are in, including those that go through / hold in the new manual starter. 


Feels super good to have the transmission off of the jack:















Also cleaned up the subframe, this is what the top looked like when I pulled it:














I don't seem to have a pic of it all cleaned up, but I'll snap one before that goes on the car tonight. 

There's still a ton of work to do... I've got to secure the transfer case to the support bracket on the back of the engine, reconnect the driveshaft, install the axle flange on the driver's side, fill the transmission and transfer case with fluid, wire up the reverse light sensor and clutch position sensor, connect the shift cables to the transmission, reinstall the lower dash, bleed the clutch, install the center console trim and shift knob, re-route / run the battery cable, install the subframe and axles, re-connect the ball joints, bleed the brakes, re-install the cooling fans, fill and bleed the cooling system, re-connect a bunch of wiring, replace the front bumper and headlights, and replace two exhaust donuts that I tore when lowering it for clearance to get the shift tower in. 

I think that's everything.... then I can turn the car on, reprogram a few things with VCDS, get a list of fault codes, send it off to the tuner, make an appointment, and tow the car over. 

Then maybe I can drive it. 


Anyway, now that I'm past the hump, a lot of the other stuff should go quick. I plan on getting back in the garage tonight after the kids go to bed and knocking out quite a few of those above items.


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## strangetdi (Feb 5, 2002)

You are an inspiration npace! Great work there!


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## AngryGiraffe (Sep 21, 2014)

:thumbup: nice work man! Things are really starting to come along.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Another kind of small update... chipping away at this. 

Transmission is completely bolted in with the new 034 motorsport mount, new starter on, and clutch line installed.
















Put in the 034 motorsport engine mount since the engine support bar was already there and coolant already drained. Easy to get the bubble out of the way when it's empty. 














034 mount on the bottom, stock on top. 

And the engine support bar is off the car. a small victory, but I'll take it, as it's starting to at least look driveable. 














I also installed the front axle flange. I wasn't sure if I was going to have to use the manual transmission one and replace the axle on the driver's side. After inspection, the splines turned out to be exactly the same, so the DSG one went in. A few hundred dollars I don't have to spend. 














This also keeps things symmetrical since the transfer case came direct from the DSG and there is no easy way to get the axle flange off on that side.

I also put a liter of trans fluid in the transmission. It's been sitting since I built it in January with no fluid, so I was a little concerned about lubrication. I also wanted to check for leaks. The other 2 liters will go in once I have the car level. Went with liquimoly for the fluid. 
























And that's pretty much where I'm at. I'll get more done tonight after work. I haven't decided whether I want to tackle the cooling system or the subframe yet. The cooling system is less work physically, but will take about as long. With the subframe, getting everything lined up with the steering rack on a floor jack will probably be tedious, but it gets more space back into the garage. Decisions, decisions.....


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Update*

A bunch of stuff got done. I owe pics, but here's where I'm at:

Subframe and steering rack are mounted and installed. I added the 034 Motorsport dogbone. With that added, I'm pretty sure there's nothing left I can do on the front suspension. 

Axles are installed.

Shift linkage is all connected and adjusted. I went with the diesel geek short shift kit. I had to re-adjust a couple times, as the first time I did I had a really hard time getting first and couldn't get reverse at all. 

Clutch is bled. This was the actually the hardest thing (as far as what's left on the list goes). It took me several hours and different methods. What worked best for me was getting the fluid reservoir half empty, and reverse bleeding (pumping fluid in through the bleed valve). 

I still have to finish filling the transmission, fill the transfer case, connect the ball joints, wire up the clutch position sensor and reverse light sensor, re-route / connect the battery cable, re-install the intercooler piping and cooling fans, re-install the coolant res and bleed the cooling system, throw on the front bumper cover / grill and headlights, and install the exhaust hangers. 

It's a laundry list of what should be a bunch of 10-15 minute jobs, but I'm not convinced it will happen that fast. 

Pics tomorrow..... probably.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

npace said:


> A bunch of stuff got done. I owe pics, but here's where I'm at:
> 
> Subframe and steering rack are mounted and installed. I added the 034 Motorsport dogbone. With that added, I'm pretty sure there's nothing left I can do on the front suspension.
> 
> ...


opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:

It's getting so close man! Have you had any more insight into how to handle the programming side of things? Would it be possible to swap the ECU with one from a manual car if necessary? (Did the TSI cars come with a FWD manual option?) I'm not sure how the Haldex/transmission/ECU all talk to one another...


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

TBomb said:


> opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:
> 
> It's getting so close man! Have you had any more insight into how to handle the programming side of things? Would it be possible to swap the ECU with one from a manual car if necessary? (Did the TSI cars come with a FWD manual option?) I'm not sure how the Haldex/transmission/ECU all talk to one another...


From what I've been able to find, if I get the wiring right, I'll be able to drive the car, but will have warning lights for the transmission, and possibly will have ABS upset with me. When I spoke with United Motorsport over the phone, they indicated that it's possible that I will need an ECU, but not definitive. They won't be able to make a determination until I get the car to them.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

Shy on details, but: https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?9311129-6-speed-swap-done


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

So Close man! 

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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

According to everything I've read on the internet (which must be true), one only needs to wire up two of the 4 connections on the clutch position sensor in order to get the car to start. I did both of them and.... nothing. This wasn't totally unexpected. I'm still planning on getting the car to someone who can do the programming, and I may have them go ahead with wiring. What I haven't done it attempt to wire up all of the clutch position sensor connections to see if that works. 

It's going to be a little while before another update... I am completely moved out of my house in upstate NY, and most of my tools went with the household goods shipment to GA where I'm moving. My wife and I are buying a house, and still have to get the non-moving car (I'm going to tow it) and the kids down next week. 

Again, if anyone has ideas on a DSG to manual swap or knows someone who knows someone who's done it, let me know.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

As promised (a while ago, I know), I have pics for the two other people that read this. At this point, the thread is probably more of an internal conversation / documentation, but whatever. 


Got the front axle cups in. The splines for the 02E version matched, so I re-used those since they are a slightly stronger design. It was a cheaper way of doing this, since I didn't have to buy new axle cups and axles. 















Front to rear driveshaft, all bolted up. I made a mistake and left a hydraulic jack supporting the steering rack / driveshaft (which was just resting on the steering rack) for the month I was out training with the Army. The jack failed, and the driveshaft coupling got banged up, which you can see in the pic. I'll probably end up getting a new one, if for no other reason than my own OCD, but for now I just want to get this done and driving. 















The top of the subframe, all cleaned up before re-install:















Getting it mounted and installed took a while; essentially you have to lift it into position with the steering rack, get the three dowel pin sleeves lines up, bolt it to the steering rack, and then lift everything into position to bolt to the unibody. When bolting to the unibody, I recommend only threading in each bolt a little then going around and threading each bolt to hand tight, and then doing the process one more time to torque. If you go ahead and try to hand tighten each bolt immediately, you probably can't get at least one other bolt in (at least I couldn't). 


























And the 034 billet dogbone mount. I need to get a pic of this as it is on the car now, but can't find one, so I'll have to snap one later and upload it. 















It took a couple tries to get the adjustment right, but here's the Diesel geek short shift kit installed: 



























And finally, the clutch master line connected to the brake master reservoir: 
















But believe it or not, the most exciting part of this update is not a picture. I reached out to Black Forest Industries, as they are on the way (mostly) between upstate NY and GA, and they will be able to get the car programmed in house! Super stoked on this one. I'm going to finish up the wiring over the next week and then get the car to BFI. It also saves me close to 8 hours of towing the car, which will make the trip a little more enjoyable and safer. Hopefully my next big update will have the car driving.


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## dale333 (May 14, 2016)

That's great news (BFI)! Hope all works out for you. I think there's a few more that two people that read your thread, at least five!


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## strangetdi (Feb 5, 2002)

dale333 said:


> That's great news (BFI)! Hope all works out for you. I think there's a few more that two people that read your thread, at least five!


Agreed. Good luck!


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## PreMier (Jan 4, 2006)

im also here :laugh:


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

npace said:


> But believe it or not, the most exciting part of this update is not a picture. I reached out to Black Forest Industries, as they are on the way (mostly) between upstate NY and GA, and they will be able to get the car programmed in house! Super stoked on this one. I'm going to finish up the wiring over the next week and then get the car to BFI. It also saves me close to 8 hours of towing the car, which will make the trip a little more enjoyable and safer. Hopefully my next big update will have the car driving.



That's awesome! What is involved with the programming to make it work? Is it basically a custom ECU modification or what? Also curious to know if it will show as a manual in the DIS on your cluster, how that looks/works, etc.

For what it's worth, I basically only check in here these days to read updates in your thread, so keep it going!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Thanks everyone. I've made it down to GA.... towed the A3 to BFI in North Carolina on the way down:















I'm not entirely sure what the programming entails; according to BFI it's different than tuning the engine, this is just telling the ECU that it's a manual transmission. While it's there, they will clean up my make-shift wiring job and a few other odds and ends. I wasn't sure about the wiring as the A3 Bentley is only available as an electronic version and it's a little dated. I also have a hard-copy MKV Bentley, and the wiring diagrams in that are different so I had to take a "best guess". Since the car didn't start, I never crimped anything because I didn't want a permanent wiring job in there without knowing if it worked. Once I get the car back, I'll look through how BFI did it and post what I can gather. 

As far as the DIS goes, it should show as a manual. When I programmed the TCU in the DSG, it changed the display to show what gear the car was in, even if not in "S" mode. I think the display is programmed to show what is sent by the ECU / TCU. 

I'll let you all know once I get the car back and running. Even when that happens, the project is far from over; I still want to rebuild the cylinder head for more / better flow, upgrade the turbo, and do a few other things.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

Any idea how long it will take BFI to get the car going? Looking forward to your first drive impressions


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

TBomb said:


> Any idea how long it will take BFI to get the car going? Looking forward to your first drive impressions



I'm not sure, but they seemed pretty confident that it would be a fairly quick affair. I'm closing on a house this month, and I start training for my new assignment as well, so the real issue will be finding time to fly back to NC and pick it up.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Setback*

Got a call from BFI the other day. The good news is the car is re-programmed and recognizes itself as a 6MT / AWD car. The bad news is when they went to move the car, it "sounded like marbles" in the transmission. When they drained it, this is what they found.....














It's hard to see, but that fluid should look brand new, and there's metal chunks and shavings in there. This is 100% my fault, as I missed something when I re-assembled the transmission. Either I did something wrong, or the transmission was bad to begin with and I overlooked something. When I pulled it apart, there was an area on the engine side of the inside of the case where the main input shaft sits that looked slightly rubbed. I ignored it because when I put everything back together before putting the case back together, everything turned freely with no issue. 

The most frustrating thing about this (other than having to source another transmission) is that I don't know where I went wrong in the disassemble / inspect / rebuild / assemble process. If anyone has any ideas, please let me know. 

Now I have to get another transmission shipped to BFI and leave it in their hands. I'm sure they'll do a great job, I'm just bummed that I didn't do it myself. 


On another note, one of the front control arms is missing a bolt:














BFI sent this pic, and I'm not sure where / how this happened; the only thing I can think is that the vibration on the 1200 mile trip on the trailer eventually knocked it loose. Not a big deal, but the lesson is this: always use thread locker. 


That's it for now. Next time I should be in the car and driving, after I take care of a few other small issues on the car (finish / finalize the battery cable routing, re-install the rear end-links, install the headlights). I towed the car without headlights installed basically because I ran out of time... I made some custom lights that still need to be properly aimed.


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## dale333 (May 14, 2016)

That sucks about the trans. It definitely seems like the car is in good hands. Thank goodness the control arm bolt didn't come out while driving. 

I tried to put a GT35R turbo on my Nissan Altima CVT (after I killed the third trans I took it off) I got my all my transmissions from same place. The guy was prompt, and good to work with. Granted this was a few years ago but his email was [email protected] You could email him and see if he can help. 

* From one of my emails*
Talley Trans North America Recycled Car and Heavy Truck parts 1-888-413-1875 or 1-404-477-4840 or 1-912-996-4444
HQ: Georgia. 1600 warehouses in the U.S. and Canada, since 1982.
We care: Talley Trans is Better Business Bureau A+
http://goo.gl/sBxL0

Reliable engines, Turbos, transmissions, axles, differentials, airbags, computer modules,
navigation, doors, seats, hatches, truck beds, truck cabs, front ends,
audio, climate controls, speedometers, steering columns and wheels.

http://www.talleytransinc.com
http://www.twitter.com/talleytrans


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

dale333 said:


> That sucks about the trans. It definitely seems like the car is in good hands. Thank goodness the control arm bolt didn't come out while driving.
> 
> I tried to put a GT35R turbo on my Nissan Altima CVT (after I killed the third trans I took it off) I got my all my transmissions from same place. The guy was prompt, and good to work with. Granted this was a few years ago but his email was [email protected] You could email him and see if he can help.
> 
> ...




Thanks for the info. I've found two good candidates with 6-month warranties. I'm also looking at a place that deals exclusively in used audi parts and has a lifetime warranty ---- this may be out of reach in terms of cost. According to their webpage they don't have an 02Q in stock currently, but I've reached out to them and requested the part / quote so we'll see. 

The other thing I didn't mention earlier is that I have to have the brand new LSD shipped back to peloquin for a teardown / inspection / rebuild. It's cheaper than buying new, but again, just something else to deal with. 

I can't find a transmission with less than 84,000 miles on the clock, which shouldn't be a huge deal as long as the syncros are good. I think in terms of long time use / reliability, manual transmissions (even in these cars) are pretty good; it's other things like timing chain tensioners and rear main seals that tend to go. 

If anyone has another experience to pass on, let me know.


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## dale333 (May 14, 2016)

I don't know the price point you're looking at but wow, this is cheap for new OEM. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-Au...924257?hash=item43ed0df721:g:-LkAAOSw~oFXEwNi


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

dale333 said:


> I don't know the price point you're looking at but wow, this is cheap for new OEM.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-Au...924257?hash=item43ed0df721:g:-LkAAOSw~oFXEwNi


Unfortunately that won't work; the bellhousing side of the case is different so it won't bolt up. In my case, it's very likely that the same portion of the case is all ground up. If that's true, I can't swap over either.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

Dang man, bummed to hear about the setback. I know it's doubly frustrating when it's something you worked on yourself. Hopefully BFI will be able to determine what happened when they tear it down to remove the diff.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Update*

More Carnage!!!!!



So I heard back from BFI, and the (sort of) good news is it seems that I didn't totally botch the transmission install. I messed up, but not with rebuilding / installing the transmission. 

What happened is the 1st-2nd shift fork bent, and when BFI tried to shift to neutral and start the car, the bent fork was in the way. See below pic:













From what they can tell at BFI, and the only thing that makes sense to any of us, is that the car was in gear at some point while I was towing it, and with the car shifting around on the trailer, it bent the shift fork, causing catastrophic failure when the car started. The reason we're thinking this is because I was able to shift smoothly and get every gear before I left my house and brought the car down. 



Here's some more carnage pics:

























The good news is that the reprogramming went well; the car recognizes that it's a manual now and I didn't have to buy an ECU or anything like that. 

The diff got shipped off to Peloquin earlier this week for cleanout / rebuild (which is less than the easy route of buying a new one) and I re-ordered shift forks for the new to me transmission. The new transmission is off a 2009 FWD A3 with a little under 60,000 miles. This time I got one with a 6 month warranty, so that will help if something else happens. Fingers crossed.....


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

npace said:


> More Carnage!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I guess it doesn't make it any less painful, but at least it doesn't really appear to be your fault...not sure how anyone could have envisioned that happening.

Good news about the reprogramming though! It's getting so close! :thumbup:


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## Tjtalan (Jan 19, 2013)

Wow, the struggle is real. I’ve been there man, it will all be worth it in the end.


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## Tjtalan (Jan 19, 2013)

Please enlighten me, front control arms?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Tjtalan said:


> Please enlighten me, front control arms?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My front control arms? They're tubular control arms from Epic Euro tuning. I had the Passat aluminum ones but when I was going to change bushings I decided on these since they're full spherical. The other advantage is that they're fully adjustable. Camber plates are a PITA on these cars in my opinion. I do my own alignments so being able to do everything at the control arm is a plus for me.


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## Hawkman312 (Nov 4, 2016)

npace said:


> My front control arms? They're tubular control arms from Epic Euro tuning. I had the Passat aluminum ones but when I was going to change bushings I decided on these since they're full spherical. The other advantage is that they're fully adjustable. Camber plates are a PITA on these cars in my opinion. I do my own alignments so being able to do everything at the control arm is a plus for me.


How harsh are these? I like everything about them except the spherical bushings. I drive my car every day and I'd love the adjustment these provide, just not sure I'm willing to sacrifice those big rubber bushings. It'd be perfect for me if they mounted up to the original points with the original bushings and retained the adjustment.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Hawkman312 said:


> How harsh are these? I like everything about them except the spherical bushings. I drive my car every day and I'd love the adjustment these provide, just not sure I'm willing to sacrifice those big rubber bushings. It'd be perfect for me if they mounted up to the original points with the original bushings and retained the adjustment.


You can't retain rubber or even poly bushings with these; they use spherical rod ends that thread in / out of the body which is what provides the adjustment. I don't really notice that much in terms of harshness; I think the dampers play a much more critical part of how smooth or harsh the ride is. With the control arms / subframe if everything is locked down, it's using _only_ the springs and dampers for this. I think the ride would be more harsh if I had a poly setup or some poly and some rubber, or a combination of spherical bearing and bushing, because then part of the subframe / control arm assembly is locked down, transferring more vibration to the compliant bushings. 

That being said, I have some poly bushings that I'll be putting in the rear along with spherical bearing trailing arms when I get the car back.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

The tiniest of updates:

I got almost all of my garage organized / cleaned out from the move, so I can think about getting the car back and moving forward. It's still at BFI, as the inspected / returned LSD only came back recently from Peloquin's. I have a part order on the way as well. Nothing big, just some new hardware and bits to keep this thing going and in good shape before I start with fueling / cylinder head work. 

Speaking of BFI, I plan to be there for their Oktoberfest this year, if anyone wants to meet and / or see the car.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Another pic free update (sorry  ) Got a message from BFI today that the transmission is together and went into the car today! Super excited. I expect to see the car sometime late next week. 

Also, if anyone is in the area and wants to meet, I plan on attending the BFI Oktoberfest.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

First the good news: The car is running and driving again, and everything works (transmission shifts, AWD functions, no errors). I have my car back, but I'm still not driving it yet  More on that in a minute.....

So I went to BFI for Oktoberfest, and planned to pick up the car the day prior to the event and finish the interior and clean it up to drive it back. Well, there's a leak between the transmission and the transfer case, which BFI stated they think is because the transfer case on my car is for a DSG and not manual. While plausible, the more I look into it, that isn't very likely. I ended up going to the event without the A3, and then towing the car home. 

I saw this in Raliegh:















And had a beer when I got home in my new glass:















The event itself was fun. I met Paul from DAP and Charles the Humble mechanic, and got to see a lot of really cool Audi, VW, BMW, and Porsche cars. 


Here's why I don't think the transfer case itself is the culprit:
The input and output splines line up and fit into one another, and the car runs and drives. The transfer case and output to the haldex / rear diff is confirmed working. Also, independent of one another, the transmission and transfer case don't leak from the splined shafts, they would leak from the seals themselves. I suspect that the leak is due to a faulty or improperly installed transmission output shaft seal. 

When I returned home with the car, here is what I found: 














Bent / broken turbo outlet pipe bracket and missing captive bolt.


















Misaligned / improperly mounted transmission mount. 



























New Short shifter rusted, and formerly clean aluminum parts (like the alternator there) oxidized. The Brand new 034 Motorsport engine mount and the throttle body were like this as well. 


























Rodent feces and chewed up bits of whatever throughout the car. 


I will say upfront that when I dropped the car off, I was on the way down during a move, and had tools and spare parts in the car. I know for a fact that the rodent feces and other debris was not there. I also know that the turbo discharge pipe / bracket was not left that way. I contacted BFI when I found the issues, and they asked me to send pics. After doing so, they said the car was that way when dropped off. After I responded I got no response back. 

The other issue is the wiring. They charged a substantial amount to wire things up, when all they did was ground out the wire that goes from the DSG to the body control module. The clutch position sensor was left alone and simply bypased, and the reverse lights were not wired. When I asked about this, they stated that all the lights work because there is no bulb-out error. When I explained that there wouldn't be for the reverse lights because the bulb is there and the can-bus is getting proper resistance. The reverse light switch on the transmission was not wired either, so it would be impossible for it to work. After this, I started to question other things they did. It's why I question the "improper transfer case" explanation as well as what I posted above about the leak. 

To date, I have not gotten a response back. As stated, when I dropped the car off, I was in the process of moving from Upstate New York to Georgia, and didn't have the tools or space to finish the car. I do not have the knowledge to program the car, which is what I left it there for in the first place. 

All told, they did a great job on the programming, a good job on the 2nd transmission rebuild, and a questionable job on the wiring. At the end, they probably wanted to get it out of there and get on to other projects, which I get. Would I go there again? It depends. Anything long-term is probably not a good idea, as the car was stored / left outside with no transmission and the hood open while waiting for the replacement transmission and LSD. This isn't a huge problem, but it's what caused the rust / oxidation and allowed for rodents to get into the car. While an "enthusiast" shop, I would probably also only take the car there for bolt-on installs and stock type service. Swaps or any other type of custom work should probably be left to someone else.


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## Tjtalan (Jan 19, 2013)

Sorry you had a bad experience. It’s home, in your hands, you can set it strait.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Tjtalan said:


> Sorry you had a bad experience. It’s home, in your hands, you can set it strait.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



It wasn't the worst experience. Adam @ BFI seemed like a pretty good guy, but in the end I felt like they could've handled the issues better and done something to make it right. 

I did get the reverse lights functioning, although it took me purchasing an ErWin subscription to get the appropriate wiring diagram and figure out the pins on the BCM. 



I had to rob Peter to pay Paul, so to speak, to get it working. The BCM uses tiny pin connectors that are different than what's on most of the rest of the car. Not wanting to spend a bunch of money on an OEM repair wire, I grabbed the harness off the old paddle shift steering wheel and used one of the wires on that:
















I'll regret it when I have to buy a new harness to put another MF steering wheel on. 

After testing and making sure the reverse lights worked, I crimped the wiring, tidied everything up, and put the interior back together. 

My new favorite part of the car:
















Not sure if I posted it before, but the shift knob is the OEM one off the A1 quattro. 

And the interior, all buttoned up: 















I also finished up a custom headlight project. Lights are currently off the car for other reasons, but here's a sneak peek:


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

Ugh, sucks about how BFI treated you and your car - that would frustrate me to no end. Glad they at least got the programming done, as the rest I'm sure you're more than capable of sorting out.

Looking forward to your impressions on the Morimoto kit. Are they bi-xenon's or their newer LEDs?


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## PreMier (Jan 4, 2006)

wow.. youre nicer than i wouldve been with BFI. im sorry you had to go through that


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

TBomb said:


> Ugh, sucks about how BFI treated you and your car - that would frustrate me to no end. Glad they at least got the programming done, as the rest I'm sure you're more than capable of sorting out.
> 
> Looking forward to your impressions on the Morimoto kit. Are they bi-xenon's or their newer LEDs?



After a lot of research and reviews, I went with xenons. LEDs are the way of the future, but I didn't want to mess with any potential issues. 




PreMier said:


> wow.. youre nicer than i wouldve been with BFI. im sorry you had to go through that



It is what it is. I'm not totally eating it, but didn't want to air everything out. Once its all settled I might post everything.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

npace said:


> After a lot of research and reviews, I went with xenons. LEDs are the way of the future, but I didn't want to mess with any potential issues.


Nice. I have a set of the Mini's I'm getting ready to retrofit into some euro replica housings for my wife's old Mk4 Jetta, which is about to become my daily driver. The headlights in that car are abysmal. After I get a few things addressed on the Mk4 then the A3 can get a few more go-fast upgrades


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Got the transfer case off of the transmission a little while ago. Started on it last weekend, ran out of time, and then was sick all week, so didn't get to it until today.

I found this at the right axle when I went to remove it:














Yep, the bolts weren't in all the way, but they were strangely tight. After removing them, you can see why:



























Yep. Those bolts are stripped and bent, and three of the six threaded holes in the axle cup are now stripped. I'm sure BFI will claim the car was like that when they got it... although you all know it wasn't because I recorded everything here when I installed the first transmission. 

So then when I finally got the transfer case off, I found this..... hmm, I wonder why there's a transmission fluid leak?
















So there's supposed to be a seal in there, and there isn't one. I wasn't completely sure, but I consulted the workshop manual, and sure enough, it calls for one on the transfer case and one on the transmission side. It's also supposed to be accessible without taking the transmission apart, so it doesn't go inside or something. Straight up, I am now saying whoever the tech was that worked on my car was incompetent, lazy, or both. 

BFI, if you still bother going on the forums and reading stuff like this, I would love to know why a transmission seal wasn't installed and why an impact gun or a gorilla with a 40 foot long breaker bar was used to try and force cross threaded axle bolts in (<----- I assume it was one of these two things). 

The good news is that I already have the seal, and it should now be a fairly straight-forward install. Then I get to drain whatever is left of the fluid that's still in there, and re-fill. 

I'm also excited that I should have the car up and running by the end of the weekend, and weather permitting I can drive it for a change.


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## strangetdi (Feb 5, 2002)

Hope it works out. Are you getting any portion of your money back from BFI?


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

Damn dude. The hits keep coming. I'd be really tempted to go through everything they may have touched with a fine-toothed comb at this point to find any other FUBARs before feeling confident in the state of the car moving forward. I'm sure you'll get it all sorted.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

strangetdi said:


> Hope it works out. Are you getting any portion of your money back from BFI?



They stopped responding to me, but I have an open dispute on my CC.



TBomb said:


> Damn dude. The hits keep coming. I'd be really tempted to go through everything they may have touched with a fine-toothed comb at this point to find any other FUBARs before feeling confident in the state of the car moving forward. I'm sure you'll get it all sorted.



Yep. I got the wrong seal, so it will probably be next weekend before I'm driving the car. I ordered one and it came in the box with the right part number, but the part number on the seal when I opened the box was different (and it didn't fit). I called the local VW dealership, and the person I spoke with insisted the part number didn't exist (02Q 409 189). 

There's plenty to do, though. This is my first time tapping threads, and it's proving more time-consuming and tedious than I thought. I also need to re-situate my battery cable, as I never really routed it where I wanted, and it's still a lot longer than it needs to be.


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## Tjtalan (Jan 19, 2013)

Man I hate to say it, I’ve been a professional technician for 15 years. In that time I’ve worked with a lot of techs, 99% have been hacks, even at the dealer level. No one touches my car for this reason. If I don’t know how, I learn. 



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## dale333 (May 14, 2016)

Man, that sucks they did that to you. I've had simmilar problems. I made the msitake of putting a turbo on an 08 Nissan Altima Coupe with a CVT (back in 09). The guy that put it on used a Garrett GT35R which I asked if it was to big. It was, it kept plowing the CVT. The first transmission was replaced by Harbor Nissan in Port Charlotte FL, while they had it, waiting on the trans, they stored it outside, the intercooler was stolen off the car, they didn't cover it, I had to buy another one. After the third CVT, I had all the turbo taken off by Automotive One in Longwood FL while I was deployed to Afghanistan. They had the car for six months, I told them to just work on it when they didn't have any other work...to save me money. They did an awesome job, even electrical removing the Haltech piggyback that was wired in. They stored my car in a garage when they weren't working on it. 

Sadly we never know until after. I hope you get it all sorted out. Sorry so long


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## AngryGiraffe (Sep 21, 2014)

Tjtalan said:


> Man I hate to say it, I’ve been a professional technician for 15 years. In that time I’ve worked with a lot of techs, 99% have been hacks, even at the dealer level. No one touches my car for this reason. If I don’t know how, I learn.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I've been professionally painting cars for 20 years and I would agree a lot of techs are hacks. There are still plenty of good techs left in the world, but it seems most people(not just car technicians) don't care/take pride in their work anymore. There is an influx of people (can only speak for my industry) who aren't car people. To them this is just a job to pay their bills. It's sad really, but it's the world we now live in. 

These days your options are DIY or do a ton of research on the shop you brought it to(not saying you didn't Npace. I'm sure you did) and then re inspect the work that said shop has done.


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## Tjtalan (Jan 19, 2013)

AngryGiraffe said:


> I've been professionally painting cars for 20 years and I would agree a lot of techs are hacks. There are still plenty of good techs left in the world, but it seems most people(not just car technicians) don't care/take pride in their work anymore. There is an influx of people (can only speak for my industry) who aren't car people. To them this is just a job to pay their bills. It's sad really, but it's the world we now live in.
> 
> These days your options are DIY or do a ton of research on the shop you brought it to(not saying you didn't Npace. I'm sure you did) and then re inspect the work that said shop has done.


Exactly, I call them clock punchers. I could go on for hours on this topic, but I don’t want to clog up Npace’s awesome thread. 

In closing, it’s that old adage, do it right, or not at all!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Getting close......

Got this in the mail earlier this week:

















New OEM Seal, part number 02Q 409 189A. I also tried multiple methods to get the threads in the axle cup right. This is what I ended up using:

















This is a thread chaser by Lang tools. Made in the US, and it worked incredibly well on 2 of the 3 threaded holes that BFI F***ed up. 
The other one, however, was cross threaded so badly that I couldn't get anything started straight into it. The OEM bolts, the thread chaser, and a sh**ty harbor freight tap kit wouldn't go in right. This is what it looked like:
















So I ended up using a drill and this monster:
















A tap kit from Irwin tools; it was much better than the HF one. That particular hole will let me thread in the OEM bolts, but they don't hold as well now that they were cut further. Some thread locker should help quite a bit. 

With that finished, I got the new seal in place on the transmission:















When putting this in, you're supposed to put grease between the dust lip and the main flange on the seal, to prevent binding on the transfer case side and keep everything lubricated. I ordered the OEM stuff from an Audi dealer, but it never showed up. After some research, I found out that the OEM "seal graes" is on block order, meaning even the dealership can't order it. Some more research later, and I found out that the grease is just to keep the transfer case from tearing it on the way in, and that the transmission fluid is what keeps it lubricated. So I figured it didn't matter that much, and used this stuff:
















It's the same stuff I used on the splines of the output shaft and the transfer case input shaft.

















That done, I put the transfer case back in:
















Unfortunately, while under the car, I found two more issues. The more serious one:
















Oil coming from the turbo.... I've been planning on a turbo upgrade for a while, and if a seal's blown, I guess I'll have to do it sooner than later. If that's the case, I'll have to make lemons into lemonade. 


The other, not really serious at all issue:
















This was left somewhere in my car by BFI. I found it when I removed the transfer case. Hopefully that's the last surprise they left me. 


So what's left? To get the car rolling again, I have to install the subframe, dogbone mount, passenger side axle, both front wheels, new headlights, and front grille / bumper. Oh, and don't forget to re-fill the transmission and transfer case with gear oil. I expect to get all of this done tonight and at least be able to take it on a test drive. I'll throw up another post when I do.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

opcorn:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Getting close....*

A small update: got the sub-frame re-installed. Removal shouldn't be necessary, but I found it impossible to put the transfer case back in with the subframe just lowered. It was no problem with it out of the way. 


Getting it lined up on the steering rack is the hardest part, IMO. 

















And installed:
















Sorry the pics are kind of garbage... the lighting in my garage is not the best. I thought I would have this done on Sunday, but as usual, kids and other obligations interrupted. The hardest part is done; now I just need to button up the rest of the front suspension, drain / fill the transmission, and get the battery cable lined up and connected.


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## Tjtalan (Jan 19, 2013)

Kids and other obligations, story of my life. 

Excited for you!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Almost there....*

Got a bunch done and should be able to drive the car soon! Actually, I could drive it now, but it's been raining here all day. I would prefer to do a shakedown run in dry weather so that it's easier to discover any leaks. 

First, I got the transmission fluid filled. So much easier with a funnel that has an integrated 12" tube. While I was there, I installed a magnetic drain plug in the transmission. Yes, the transmission has a magnet inside, but unless you drop it and crack it open, you're never going to clean it or see what's there. 


Drain plug:
















Filling the transmission:
















So I think this is actually going to be the last surprise from Hack Forest Industries:
















You can see where they just chugged away on an impact when re-installing the transmission mount. Those threads aren't supposed to be there on the mount side. Instead of getting the mount lined up properly and threading in the bolts by hand, and then tightening to spec, they just shoved everything in as fast as possible and pressed down with an impact when it didn't fit right. That's why the mount was sitting crooked before. The mounts are slotted to allow for some adjustment. It takes all of 5 extra minutes to support the engine / trans from above and then use a jack to get the transmission mount lined up underneath. 


Here's what it should look like, and what mine looks like now:
















Also, I think I'm going to mount the catch can here, at least for now:
















I also got the battery routed to where I want it. It now crosses over the rear diff / subframe and enters directly into the battery box. I used a 1" hole saw and added a grommet:
















I also left some length in case I need / want to adjust it in the future. I used a clamp style terminal, instead of solder lugs for this reason. This is the end result in the battery box:
















Car's back on the ground, feels good. Can't wait to drive it. (And wash it, it's filthy)

















Also, the custom headlights. I can't get a good pic with my iPhone that does these justice, but they're really good. I tried in the dark but the glare was worse.


















DRL LEDs with a LED backlight for the projector. I tried taking a pic with the lights actually on, but all you can see is a white blob from the light. When I get a chance I'll shoot a pic with the lights shining on something so you can get an idea of the cutoff and brightness. 


That's it for now. I have a couple suspension upgrades in the works and then it'll be just driving and enjoying the car for a while. :thumbup:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Rear suspension upgrades:

I got the 034 spherical rear trailing arms and rear lower control arms with poly bushings. I got the entire trailing arm because I don't own a shop press and didn't want to have to mess with melting out the rubber and then trying to press the bearings in. For the lower control arms, they were pretty rusty and crusty, and it was a time saver to only have to swap over instead of pressing things in and out. 

New on top, old on bottom:
















A note on removing / installing these: The one time use pin / rivet (part number 1K0 609 600) to hold in the parking brake cable bracket is ridiculous. Supposedly you can drive it out using a pin punch. After two hours of trying this on one side, I decided to use a chisel and brake off the sides around the center. Seriously, Subaru axle roll pins are easier to get in and out. Once I got that out, the rest was pretty easy. When I put it back in, I used an appropriate sized nut / bolt; the only reason I can think of to do it the other way is robots. This was less expensive, and when I need to service these again, I won't have to fight with the rivet to get the trailing arm out. 

The bolt in question:

















That done, I moved on to the rear lower control arms. The install on the driver's side proved to be more difficult than I expected. It is necessary to lower the exhaust as the muffler is in the way. 

Here's what the inner bushing looked like on the driver's side:

















And the new one, powerflex black:






























I also cleaned up the lower rubber isolation mounts, as those were in pretty rough shape. 

Before:

















After:



















Not perfect, but I'm happy that all that dirt and rust is gone. I also got a case of "while you're in there". Back when I installed the manual shift tower, I had to lower the exhaust to remove the exhaust shield. Well, I tore two of the hangers, and wasn't happy about it. I bought new ones, but they've been sitting on a shelf and I figured since I had to lower the exhaust to get the rear eccentric bolt out, I would go ahead and replace them. 

The tear doesn't look that bad in the pic, but It's pretty bad with weight hanging off of it. New one on the right:
















And installed:
















I also got the car up on ramps and installed the rear endlinks with zero pre-load. The car dives great now. Super pumped about getting all this done. BFI had my car from late May until mid-October, and with a full shop got less done. At least now I can keep it properly maintained.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

Glad to hear that you finally have it back on the road...just in time for winter  Although I'm pretty sure you live in the south now so you shouldn't have much to worry about in that regard.


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## SteveKen (Oct 6, 2009)

npace said:


> Rear suspension upgrades:
> 
> I got the 034 spherical rear trailing arms and rear lower control arms with poly bushings. I got the entire trailing arm because I don't own a shop press and didn't want to have to mess with melting out the rubber and then trying to press the bearings in. For the lower control arms, they were pretty rusty and crusty, and it was a time saver to only have to swap over instead of pressing things in and out.


You suggest that the trailing arm bushings can be replaced with shepricals? I searched 034's site and couldn't find just the bushings for this. Where can I source these since I have a rust free car and a press?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

TBomb said:


> Glad to hear that you finally have it back on the road...just in time for winter Although I'm pretty sure you live in the south now so you shouldn't have much to worry about in that regard.



Yeah, I honestly miss a lot of things about Northern winters, but I can't lie, it's pretty nice when winter basically means hoodie season. I'm still driving around on performance summer tires; it's been in the high 60's here.





SteveKen said:


> You suggest that the trailing arm bushings can be replaced with shepricals? I searched 034's site and couldn't find just the bushings for this. Where can I source these since I have a rust free car and a press?




034 used to offer them separately, but you're right, I can't find them on their site. My guess is it was less popular to get just the bearings. ETekTuning has a page for them still, but I'm not sure if they're offered that way anymore. You might also be able to source them from aurora directly. 

https://www.etektuning.com/034-motorsport-rear-trailing-arm-spherical-bearing-upgrade-kit-vw-mk5-mk6-audi-a3-s3-tt/


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

So this happened......















That's the silicone hose from the compressor outlet... with a gaping hole in it. The oil everywhere is coming from the turbo. I got to drive the car for four days before this happened. I knew the turbo was on it's way out, but not this bad. The problem is I can't afford a new turbo right now, so the car is probably going to sit for a month or two. 

If anyone has thoughts on a turbo, let me know. The car was running a garrett GT2867. I'm leaning toward a gen 2 GTX3071R. It's available with a compact compressor housing and will basically drop in where my current turbo is without modification. I think it's the least expensive route as I can still get an upgrade but hold off on a tune as long as I drive conservatively.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

npace said:


> So this happened......
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Damn. The hits just keep coming 

Did the turbine grenade itself and some shrapnel cause that hole in the silicone hose? If so, I'd be concerned about what trash may have gotten sent into your intercooler (or worse). Hopefully that isn't the case.

I've heard great things about the GTX3071R and I think it's a great application for our cars. Supposedly spools plenty fast thanks to the billet compressor turbine and flows nicely. That one would be at the top of my list most likely.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

TBomb said:


> Damn. The hits just keep coming
> 
> Did the turbine grenade itself and some shrapnel cause that hole in the silicone hose? If so, I'd be concerned about what trash may have gotten sent into your intercooler (or worse). Hopefully that isn't the case.
> 
> I've heard great things about the GTX3071R and I think it's a great application for our cars. Supposedly spools plenty fast thanks to the billet compressor turbine and flows nicely. That one would be at the top of my list most likely.


No, the turbine is still intact. The seals blew, and the resulting oil and coolant mixture is what you see all over the place. That got into the threads of the just re-tapped axle cup, and the bolt in the threaded section that I had to completely re-tap backed out after it was covered in oil. That side of the double washer spun around, sheared off, and smacked the turbo outlet hose until it made that nice hole in the picture. 

This is honestly the best result, because if that bolt didn't back out and I didn't notice the leak, the results could have been much worse, and I might be replacing an engine with the turbo. 

And I think I am just going to go with the GTX3071.... it makes the most sense and is only $100 more than a GTX28 series turbo.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

First, I want to wish everyone a late Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year... the holiday season is one of those times that I reflect on how truly lucky I am to be able to pursue a hobby like this and, despite my setbacks, I'm not really mad because, well, this kind of thing comes with the territory when building / modifying / customizing a car. 

Anyway, this is more of a question than an update. I'm just about settled on the new turbo I want, but I'm also looking at fitting / line replacements. For those who haven't followed this and my previous thread, one of the things that's always bothered me about my setup is the oil lines. A few years ago I had to replace the feed line for the third time, so I took the car to a motorsport shop and had a custom feed line made that's been perfect - I plan to re-use that. 

The return line is still the same one however, and it's junk. I'm looking at converting to -an fittings for the plumbing, and will probably do hard lines as the distance between fittings is impossibly short for braided. *What I want to know is this: In order to maximize space / clearance, can I tap the drain on the turbo to accept an ORB? * This will give me about another 1/2 inch of space / wiggle room and make leaks and maintenance less common but I'm not sure if it's okay or not. If I do the turbo and the upper oil pan, that's an extra inch of room, which would really help. I can't find an answer in my research. If anyone knows or has seen this done (good or bad) I would really like to know.

I've also thought about having a -10 an male fitting welded onto the turbo, but again, I'm not sure if this is okay or not. I haven't personally seen it, which doesn't make it wrong, but it seems like there's a reason not to do it if it isn't being done. 

Thanks in advance, I appreciate any information anyone has on this.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

No turbo yet, but I have an update and another question, if anyone can answer it. 

So I decided to unwrap the portion of the wiring harness containing the un-used DSG wiring, and well, things sort of snowballed from there:


















Since I was going through the pain of unwrapping and removing wires, I decided to do tuck. Which leads to my question, there is a giant pigtail harness that plugs into the bottom of the fuse box. I've gotten the purple locking mechanism undone, and 28 of the 30 wires out. The last two, however, are giving me trouble. They are the two thick wires at the top section. I can't tell if they use a different locking mechanism than the rest of the wires or if the cheap terminal tools I got off amazon are just not long enough. 

The connector in question is this one, with the pin circled in red:



















It's OEM part number 1K0 937 700 B. 


Other than the wiring, and the turbo, I've got a few more things in the works, but that's it for now. Slow progress is still progress. I hope to be able to get the turbo once my tax return comes in, and plan on having that, as well as the manifold and downpipe ceramic coated.


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

SteveKen said:


> You suggest that the trailing arm bushings can be replaced with shepricals? I searched 034's site and couldn't find just the bushings for this. Where can I source these since I have a rust free car and a press?


aleksracing also has them in rubber and spherical


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Got the pins out.... it turns out that standard vw connector tools aren't long enough for the larger gauge wiring. I didn't have a screwdriver narrow enough to fit into the pin-out portion of the connector housing. The best thing to do is get two long, narrow screwdrivers (cheap ones) and grind / file them down to fit. 


This is what it looks like now:
















Don't mind the battery switch location; that's just there for the time being until I get everything moved out of the way and can mount it permanently where I want it. 

I intend to get this portion of the harness moved into the cabin today. After that, I'll finish removing the remnants of the DSG harness and then start to test route everything to see what actually needs to be extended. 

If anyone decides to tackle something like this, I'll tell you that it's way more intimidating than it is difficult. I ended up labeling connectors on both ends so I could make absolutely sure that everything goes back in the right spot. That said, there's only a couple of connections on the each side that are the same size and could possibly get confused.


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## atrociousa3 (Aug 6, 2007)

Thanks for the info. I red through some of this last night but somehow missed the post about the races. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## absolutt (Aug 10, 2007)

Thanks for keeping this topic updated. Good to see the results. And it'll be helpful for those of us who have to delve into it later. This spring, I intend to do a full suspension inspection of all these parts. I've decided to keep my A3 all the way until I'm ready for electric, as it's just behaving far too well to let it go. I really didn't expect to keep it this long. But no regrets & kind of getting sentimental about the thing now. :laugh:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Getting there*

It's been a while since I've updated. Still working but nothing exciting.... it's all wiring. I'll post pictures tonight. Got some of the chassis harness extended and run. I haven't started on the engine wiring harness yet, but I did buy an extra one to extend it more easily. I have it running between the engine and transmission where the starter sticks out, then across the front / bottom of the transmission to the frame rail and along the inside wheel arch, then up and into the rain tray where the ECU sits. 

I have no visible wiring from the rain tray into the engine bay. Once I get the wiring done and test that it runs, I have plans to get rid of the ugly coolant bubble. This won't be a full on shave... the chassis harness will still come through the firewall and I have no plans to remove seam sealer, weld holes, spread mud all over the place, or re-paint everything. Just cleaning it up to look a little better while I save for the new turbo / tune. 

Sorry for the lack of pics, I'll try to get out to the garage and snap some tonight.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

A day late, but a few pics to show _some_ progress. Extending and tucking the wiring harness is tedious and time consuming, but it isn't particularly difficult. With everything inside the car, I started separating the wires so they can go where I need them. I'm basically splitting the main chassis harness into three, one for the fusebox, one to go up into the rain tray for the ECU, and one for the engine bay connections. 


















Separated. The goop you see on one of the sections is on the all of them; for some reason the wires are covered in an extra sticky butyl , then wrapped in a double thick electrical tape, and then covered in the rubber boot at the portion of the harness that sits in the firewall. I re-wrapped some of the larger portions in some tesa tape, which is really nice stuff. I bought 3 rolls of it because I didn't want to run out mid-project, but so far I've only used about 1/2 a roll. 

Since getting the wires separated, I've slowly started to get everything unwrapped and covered in techflex. That requires de-pinning and heat shrink.... fun!

















I'm sticking with OEM connectors as I see no reason to pour money into special amphenol or deutsch connectors. Here's a completed section, although looking at it makes me think I should redo it so that the heatshrink covers the bottom of the connector to make a sort of boot, completely covering the wire. 
















So that's it for now. Nothing exciting or fancy. I'll post a pic of the harness once I get it finished and start plugging things in. I'm also considering a bulkhead pass through or cover to make the section of the harness going back into the bay less obvious. When the wiring is done, I should be in a position to get the new turbo.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

So this happened:


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

I assume you know there is a fix for that. How far down did it break off?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Tcardio said:


> I assume you know there is a fix for that. How far down did it break off?


A fix for what? Nothing's broken. I removed the center console and the glove box to get at where I want to route the fusebox.


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## strangetdi (Feb 5, 2002)

I was going to ask what were you trying to show, lol. Now we know.


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

npace said:


> A fix for what? Nothing's broken. I removed the center console and the glove box to get at where I want to route the fusebox.


I assumed your plastic shifter rod snapped off


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Tcardio said:


> I assumed your plastic shifter rod snapped off


Gotcha. If that was the case, I wouldn't have removed the center console (although maybe this is how some people do it?). My shift rod is metal (I assume aluminum), the only plastic there is where the shift knob goes around the rod. 

Speaking of, the shift knob had one of theose one time use metal clamps around it. I'm assuming when it goes back on I can just use a zip tie, or is that no good?


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

npace said:


> Gotcha. If that was the case, I wouldn't have removed the center console (although maybe this is how some people do it?). My shift rod is metal (I assume aluminum), the only plastic there is where the shift knob goes around the rod.
> 
> Speaking of, the shift knob had one of theose one time use metal clamps around it. I'm assuming when it goes back on I can just use a zip tie, or is that no good?


yeap ziptie FTW


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Nothing major yet, but it's getting closer. 

This is the colored spaghetti I'm using to extend the harness. I paid $80 for a full GTI harness with TSI engine and DSG transmission, since 90% of the wiring is the same. 
















And here's the fusebox wires extended to the passenger side of the car, ready to plug in. 
















I still need to replace or extend the thicker positive wires for the alternator, battery cable, and chassis power. I also have to cut a little bit of plastic out of the glovebox so the fusebox will fit, but the bulk of the hard work is done. The connectors in the engine bay are extended and connected, and the rest of the wiring is run to where it needs to go. The last thing to do will be extending the engine / ECU harness. I haven't fully decided how I want to do this yet. On the one hand, I can simply crimp and extend each wire, but I'm also considering using a motorsport bulkhead connector to make everything cleaner / neater. 

That's it for now, but more is coming.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Okay, I have a question for those of you out there that read this. Normally I ask questions in here and nobody answers, but I need help. As I wrap up the wiring and turn my attention toward cleaning up the coolant bubble and hoses, one of the things I'm looking at is the upper heater core hose. Where it connects to the heater core, there's a nipple that feeds a hose back into the upper coolant hard line that eventually connects to the coolant ball. Is there any harm in removing it? In other words, can I cap off that nipple or are there issues with that? It seems like as long as the upper and lower heater core hose are connected, there shouldn't be a problem, or do I have that wrong?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Welp, nobody answered, so I guess I'm going to try it and hope for the best. I can always go back if it doesn't work. 

I had to take a break from wiring, it's not especially difficult work, but it is time consuming and _sooooo_ boring. 

Worked on this instead:
















The bolt on the right is what cam out of the car with DSG transmission. It threads into the differential from the front passenger axle side through the bevel box. When I did the manual conversion, for some reason the short bolt won't reach the threads in the new differential... it's too short. The bolt on the left is from a european S3.... it's too long and threads all the way past where it's supposed to, blocking the one on the driver's side from threading in all the way. So my solution?
















Use a die to thread the S3 one to where the A3 one is threaded, as referenced from the bolt head.

Here is is threaded all the way to where I want it:















The threads need to be cleaned up a little, but you get the idea. I still need to figure out how long the bolt needs to be so I can cut it to the appropriate length. This wasn't an extremely difficult part of the swap, but threading a bolt by hand is time consuming. 


Also, I figured I would ask about this:
















It's the ECU where I plan to mount it... in the current body control module location. By relocating the relays that normally sit below the BCM, I can mount the BCM directly below the ECU. My question is, how hot does the ECU get? It seems like it should be fine, but the last thing I want to do is melt part of the BCM or lower dash and then have to replace it. I don't see this happening, as I _think_ the ECU is heat shielded based on where / how it sits above the engine / exhaust in the rain tray. It sits in a plastic bracket, but I want to know if anyone thinks this will be an issue. 

I suppose I could use DEI heat reflective tape on the BCM and other areas I'm concerned about. 

Okay, that's it for now. More updates soon.


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## mafia8 (Apr 14, 2020)

Awesome build and thanks for all the detail! Cant wait to see when it's done!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

mafia8 said:


> Awesome build and thanks for all the detail! Cant wait to see when it's done!


Thanks for the kind words. 


I've been getting in the groove, in terms of actually working from home, so oddly, work on the car has stalled a little. The other issue was there were some problems with the daily driver ('98 Subaru) that needed attention. I've been putting off an intermittent check engine light and an annoying oil leak for over a year now. 


First, the check engine light. After some searching and a couple of trips to autozone for a free scan, I realized that the issue was the crankshaft position sensor. 

The old one:
















Oxidation is plainly visible on the sensor side. The other issue that you can see in the pic is the side of the plastic housing is cracked, most likely from all the heat cycles over the years. This one served me well for the better part of 200,000 miles, so no issue tossing it. I replaced it with an OEM / Hitachi one. 
















Much better. This solved the check engine light, but the oil leak took a bit more work. About 30,000 miles ago, I had the head gaskets replaced because Subaru. Honestly, I don't think 140,000 miles of hard driving and family road trips across 3 continents is bad for the head gaskets to go on an economy car. I originally thought the source of the leak was the oil cooler gasket. When I dropped the cooler and inspected the gasket, the old one was flat and hard, but within a few hours, the leak was still happening. I finally tracked it down to a small drip coming out of the timing cover; it was leaking there and then spraying across the engine as I drove, making finding the leak difficult. 

If you have a subaru and it's leaking from behind the timing cover, you most likely have a leak on your front main seal / oil pump seal. This requires removing the timing components and pulley, as well as the oil pump, to replace. It's a big job for a little seal, and even though my timing components only had about 30,000 miles, it seemed stupid to not replace them since I was basically doing all the work anyway. 















And here's the oil pump, prior to cleaning and new sealant being applied:
















So where is this going? Well, one, it's an excuse as to why I haven't gotten more done on the A3. But the other big news here is it gave me the confidence to tackle the timing components on the A3. Big changes are in the works, once some specialty tools and parts arrive. 

Also, I got all of the fusebox wiring into the cabin, including the alternator cable, and mocked in place. Since I had to run new cables, I upgraded the gauge of the alternator and battery from 4 AWG to 2 AWG. Here's everything mocked up, with the fusebox in place "in" the glovebox (obviously I have to put the glovebox back in place under the dash). This is a top down view:














That's it for now, more soon.


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

npace, you've asked for answers here ... I wish I could help but ... all you described on this page (starting with the $80 colourful spaghetti ;-) is waaaayyy beyond me 

So I am just sending my admiration and good luck !! :thumbup:

Cheers,


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## strangetdi (Feb 5, 2002)

Bronco said:


> npace, you've asked for answers here ... I wish I could help but ... all you described on this page (starting with the $80 colourful spaghetti ;-) is waaaayyy beyond me
> 
> So I am just sending my admiration and good luck !! :thumbup:
> 
> Cheers,


I second that. Way beyond my automotive knowledge and skill.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Bronco said:


> npace, you've asked for answers here ... I wish I could help but ... all you described on this page (starting with the $80 colourful spaghetti ;-) is waaaayyy beyond me
> 
> So I am just sending my admiration and good luck !! :thumbup:
> 
> Cheers,



Thanks. How's Goldie in these strange times? Post a pic!




strangetdi said:


> I second that. Way beyond my automotive knowledge and skill.



And thank you, I appreciate it. 


Not really anything big, but I stripped the interior:
















I'm always looking to drop a little weight, and two things became abundantly clear to me when I did this. The back seat is really heavy. Not so much the bottom bench cushion, but the upper part that folds down is way heavier than anticipated. The 2/3 section weighs as much, maybe more, than a manual front seat. 

Also, the carpet is heavy. I was thinking about leaving it out and just putting in floor mats, but it's heavy because the floor pans are way deeper than expected. The carpet has molded foam fused to the backside of it, and it's about 4-5 inches thick in the floor pan areas. 

All this may have changed my plans for fusebox placement. I'm going to try a few things out and let you all know how it goes.


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

npace said:


> Thanks. How's Goldie in these strange times? Post a pic!


She is great, thanks for asking 

Hoping to do a few minor things like door switches with aluminum trim (the paint on my original switches is worn out), new fogs (one sense is cracked), some LEDs etc.











Cheers,


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Bronco said:


> She is great, thanks for asking
> 
> Hoping to do a few minor things like door switches with aluminum trim (the paint on my original switches is worn out), new fogs (one sense is cracked), some LEDs etc.



Looks really good. I keep finding little things with the car as I continue to work on the big things. With that said, here's another little update:


It looks like a mess under the dash, but I finally got the right segments of wiring separated and routed properly. You can also see where I put reflective heat barrier to support the ECU relocation:
















I also covered the BCM in reflective heat barrier to ensure that it stays operational. I'm not too concerned about the ECU heat, because the stock bracket that holds it is made of the same type of plastic. 
















Lastly, the ECU and BCM in place under the dash, all wired in:
















The BCM is sitting crooked, but it's secure and will be hidden under the dash. I can pull on both back and forth and they don't come loose. 

I also got a good portion of the fusebox harness extended, and settled on a permanent location. It will sit under the driver's seat right next to the wiring for the seat itself. This is a prime location as it's low, close to the center of the car, and out of the way away from the elements. It will have a plastic cover and be surrounded by foam, so I'm not really worried about it getting damaged. 

I should have a few more pics today, as I plan to finish the harness and get it routed, as well as test fit the fusebox with all the wiring in place.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

It was fun getting caught up on your project today, Nick. I haven't logged into here in a looong time! :thumbup::thumbup:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

JRutter said:


> It was fun getting caught up on your project today, Nick. I haven't logged into here in a looong time! :thumbup::thumbup:


Thanks. I'm behind, as I was supposed to post an update like 2 days ago, but there are parts coming in and work is getting done, slowly. The wiring harness extension is done, but that took forever because the spare chassis harness I bought ended up being half junk. There were sections of wire that looked good, but when I stripped them back the copper strands were black and burnt out. I ended up buying several rolls of wiring in different sizes at autozone and testing resistance with every wire before and after crimping to make sure it would be good. 

I still have to shrink the crimps and wrap the harness, and then plug everything in, but it's about there.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Fusebox is in place in it's final location. It will sit under the driver's seat next to the seat wiring harness panel. 


This is what the harness looked like in progress:
















And here it is all wrapped and tucked:
















The fusebox, in it's final location:
















I will have to cut the carpet, but plan on having a plastic panel that fits on the fusebox and covers around the edges of the carpet. All I will have to do to access it is slide the front seat back and pull the panel off. Different location, but no more difficult to access than where it was in the engine bay. 

Lastly, this is a sample of what my garage floor looked like after I finished all the wiring:
















That said, I have a ton of wiring pieces leftover that I won't be using. Whole sections of harness, connectors, loom, crimped ends, etc. If anyone needs any of this stuff for repairs or whatever, let me know. I would be willing to give most of it up for the cost of shipping, instead of spending a bunch of money on new stuff.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

A few weeks back, I ordered a special edition, Europe only interior off of ebay. Because of the size and quantity, it was easier and cheaper to have shipped in multiple, smaller packages. Today, some of the pieces started to come in. 

Another thing I worked out with the seller was the front seats. Instead of having the whole seat shipped, the seller sent the cushions with covers (and required trim pieces and headrests). This requires more work on my end, but saved a ton of money, as the A3 seats use the same frame, and the cushions and covers are the only real difference. 

In that vein, my garage is now starting to look like an upholstery shop. 
















When I bought my car, I got the winter package, which included heated seats. The new seats are not heated, so I had to take them apart. I was told some time ago that the heated seats have the heater element molded into the foam, but this is not the case. They use a coil in pad design just like what's available through the aftermarket. So I carefully peeled them back on my seat, and placed them on the foam for the new seats. 















To be continued.....


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

This post is all about door cards. One of the great things about our modern economy is the fact that you can find just about anything and get it. No need to drive around for an entire weekend to multiple junkyards looking for the part you need (yes, I've actually done this). The problem is you can't get a really good feel for what you're buying through pictures alone, so the risk is higher. The seats I got from the UK were about how I expected based on pics and conversations with the seller. They were complete, no rips or stains, and some wrinkles in the leather. No big deal. I realize things aren't going to be perfect. I got the right door cards, but they are not in the shape I would have liked. 

Here's a photo of what the passenger side (driver's side in the UK) looked like after I removed the armrest and trim:
















Not bad from far, but there are some details that need to be looked after. First of all, my stuff is in *way* better shape. I'll be using my armrests, switches, switch panels, and door pulls. The trim is a good example of the care (or lack thereof) that was taken. It's odd, because the seats are in such good shape. The car these door cards came off had piano black trim, which I was on the fence about, but now will definitely not use. 

This is what I'm talking about:
















So my carbon door trim accent pieces will be used. It's hard to see in the picture, but there are scratches and scuffs that run the entire length of the trim... it looks like an extremely abrasive cleaner was used, removing the glossy finish. The other part of the door card that had seen better days is the upper portion. I'm fairly certain these came from a smoker's car, because there's what looks like slight melting along the top of the door card, and it goes all the way through the covering on the corner near where it would sit at the rear of the window.




























If you're looking at those pics and thinking "hell, that isn't that bad" you're right. But the thing is, it would bother me every time I got in the car and saw it. I would probably be the only person to notice it, but I would notice. Not wanting to buy another set of door cards, I started looking at these more closely. I can probably swap the upper portion of the door card as well, right? 


Here's mine:
















The upper portion is still black, (Audi calls it "soul") so I should be able to get away with it. There's just one problem - the upper portion is snapped into the lower portion, and then the plastic is melted together. It's like Audi didn't have the foresight to think that people would be swapping these pieces 10 years down the road. Here's what it looks like on the backside:
















Those are three of the plastic tabs that lock the top portion of the door card to the bottom portion. They are then plasti-welded together to create one piece. I had to go through and carefully trim each one of these with a razor blade so they would pop out, leaving me with this:
















Now I still have to do my passenger side door card and put it back together, plus both on the driver's side. So I'm making two door cards out of four door cards. I'm not sure how this is going to go, but I feel in the end it will be worth it, as I'll have the interior I want. I firmly believe that a good interior makes the car. Hopefully I can meet my vision with this and not end up with something that looks like it was just a hodge podge of parts I found.

Luckily, the rear door cards are in great shape, and just need to have a good cleaning and the trim accents swapped over.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

One down, three to go. 
















Really, most of the hard work is done. The second black door card has the top portion removed, and is all cleaned up. I just have to remove the top portion on the original one from the car and swap over, and to clean up the rears and put them on. 

Also, does anyone know what this switch is for? I've never seen it... came on the new door cards. My thought is it turns off the dome light with the door open, but it's got the WiFi signal icon used on the steering wheel, so maybe it turns off bluetooth?
















Anyway, that's it for now. I expect to be able to post updates every 2 or 3 days from this point on.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Something I forgot about... the switch on the driver's side door for the gas cap and trunk. Since my new (to me) interior came from the UK, there isn't a switch on that side, or a provision for one. What's odd is that there wasn't one on the other side either... I wonder how A3 owners in the UK put gas in the tank. 

Anyway, I had to improvise a little. Here's the provision on the backside of the door panel that I'm replacing:
















And here's where it should be but isn't on my black one:
















I decided the best way to handle this was to make a template, turn it into a stencil, and copy. I used a white etching pencil to mark the black door card. 




























The resulting cut wasn't factory pretty, but it's good enough, and covered anyway. Here's the end result:
















And the door card, with my upper portion, handle, switches, and trim fully installed:

















I wasn't sure how going to a full black interior was going to look, as I've never seen a Monza car with it, but I think it's going to look great while completely changing the character of the car.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

I'm pleased to announce that I'm done with door cards! finished the rears today. No pics, because I'm sure everyone is sick of seeing posts about door cards. Nothing fancy. I had to swap the top portion on the rear driver's side just like both fronts because there was some light overspray from something... probably from the scrapyard that sold me everything. 

Anyway, next up is carpet, trim, and seats. All of these pieces haven't arrived, so it might be a while before I post again because there is an order to installing this stuff.


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

npace said:


> I'm pleased to announce that I'm done with door cards! finished the rears today.


:thumbup::thumbup:




> No pics, because I'm sure everyone is sick of seeing posts about door cards.


Nope, never sick of pictures :laugh::laugh:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Looks like a small update, but this took a while for me to get right. Finally settled on a location for the battery switch. Since the fusebox is under the front seat, I ran the battery switch to the glovebox. This also kept the starter cable from having to go with everything else through the firewall, so it will be easier to tidy up later. 
















Also, the glovebox is now in, I think permanently since I have nothing else to run over there:

















Hmmm, seems to be missing something. 
















Much better. I also re-ran the battery cable for the third and final time; it now sits inside the cabin and runs along the passenger side under the outer rail. Doing all of this required a lot of planning for the cable locations, cutting, and crimping, as well as routing the wiring just right. 

I'm currently waiting on a few more interior parts to arrive and some supplies (cleaning and tools) so I'll probably start on the passenger side wiring in the meantime.


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

npace, just wondering ...

The reason for the the battery switch - safety, convenience (not having to disconnect?) ??


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Bronco said:


> npace, just wondering ...
> 
> The reason for the the battery switch - safety, convenience (not having to disconnect?) ??


Both, and it's easier to relocate the battery. You have to connect the positive battery terminal direct to the starter and the fusebox. 0 gauge wire is heavy, so running two cables all the way from the back of the hatch doesn't make sense. If you run one to the switch, you can run two slightly smaller (I used 2 gauge, factory is 4) cables from the switch to the fusebox and starter. 

Also, because racecar


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

npace said:


> Both, and it's easier to relocate the battery. You have to connect the positive battery terminal direct to the starter and the fusebox. 0 gauge wire is heavy, so running two cables all the way from the back of the hatch doesn't make sense. If you run one to the switch, you can run two slightly smaller (I used 2 gauge, factory is 4) cables from the switch to the fusebox and starter.
> 
> Also, because racecar


Sounds good, thanks :thumbup:


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Would you mind sharing the source/name of the switch used? Looking good, Npace.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Thanks! I got the switch at summit racing a few years ago, when I originally re-loacted the battery. It was in the engine bay for a while. 

I believe flaming river is the brand name, but these are all pretty similar in operation. There are two terminal ones, which is what I have, and 4 terminal ones for guys running more direct-powered accessories. The reason I got the one I did was because it came with the bracket - there are some that don't because a lot of people install directly into an interior panel.

Here's a link to it: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fla-fr1002?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwiMj2BRBFEiwAYfTbCkDrnCk3V7tjRskwp1_OeSsib_Yx6srF9dWoZoerA4I3gRY5MhO2zhoC7tYQAvD_BwE


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

I've been hitting interior and wiring pretty hard lately, but here's something a little more fun. Thanks to A3 Owner, who queued me in to the fact that the VR6 in-tank pump will fit, is larger, and flows more. 

The pump:
















So I went to work. I was surprised by how much dirt and debris accumulated under the seat on top of the tank. 
















It's necessary to clean up the stock pump before removal.
















Larger pump installed:
















So those are the pics. I found it necessary to modify the 3.2 pump a little. If you look at the first pic, you'll see that there's a brown hose. That came off the 2.0T pump... the VR6 pump has a connection to the pump on the other side of the tank that's different, so I had to remove it and adapt with a different hose. I didn't have hose clamps, so I used cable ties to hold them together. I can pull really hard and they don't come off, so I think it's fine.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Another quick update / addition to the previous post:

I installed the torqbyte PM4 controller to run the pump. Again, A3 Owner (I think he's still on the forum) made the recommendation. It seems that the stock module will overheat if used / left in place as it can't control the demands of the pump. This replaces it while still working in the parameters of the CAN-BUS. It's a nice little upgrade that leaves fewer worries and headaches down the road. 





























I'm installing it inside the battery box in the rear. The braille battery takes so little space that it seems a waste not to use that area. Plus everything stays tucked away, nice and tidy.


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

I wonder how this 3.2 fuel pump will affect performance and fuel consumption ... ?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Bronco said:


> I wonder how this 3.2 fuel pump will affect performance and fuel consumption ... ?


Consumption is based on the demand in the control module, which is based on accelerator pressure as well as the injector duty cycle and pulse width. So for day to day driving, there won't be any increase in consumption as the pump only pushes what's demanded of it. Performance-wise, the 3.2 pump puts out more fuel than the deatschwerks 65v pump, which is capable of flowing 500hp on a 1.8T or 2.0T. So, when I get the upgraded HPFP and turbo, it should be able to meet my needs without issue.


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

npace said:


> Consumption is based on the demand in the control module, which is based on accelerator pressure as well as the injector duty cycle and pulse width. So for day to day driving, there won't be any increase in consumption as the pump only pushes what's demanded of it. Performance-wise, the 3.2 pump puts out more fuel than the deatschwerks 65v pump, which is capable of flowing 500hp on a 1.8T or 2.0T. So, when I get the upgraded HPFP and turbo, it should be able to meet my needs without issue.


Sounds great, thanks !


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Driver's side front seat is together. I still need to finish one minor detail before I put the carpet in and can really get going on getting the interior together. 

Not the best pic, but you get the idea:
















To the best of my knowledge, these were never available in North America, and weren't available at all with heat. So I have black, S-line sport seats, with cloth inserts, white stitching, and heat. The white stitch should go well with the shift boot and knob and really pull the interior together. 

Cleaning these took a while.... they are obviously in really good shape but sat at the scrapyard where I got them from for a while, and were really dirty. I imagine they were outside.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Interior wiring is done, which means I can start putting the interior back together!

Carpet is in the car:
















The interior I bought was from the UK, so I didn't get the carpet because it's RHD, and won't fit right. I did buy a black carpet off of ebay, but it was too filthy beyond salvage. After pressure washing, drying, steam cleaning, and running the ozone machine, it looked good but still smelled terrible, and at the end of the day when seats, center console, and floormats are in, for me, it wasn't worth having a smelly car for black carpet. :screwy:

Anyway, here's the fusebox after final install; front of the car is toward the top of the image:

















And with the cover on:


















Once everything's together, this will still be accessible as all I will need to do is slide the seat back and remove the cover. Just as easy as when it was in the engine bay, but different. 

And lastly, got the driver's side lower dash in. It's a minor detail, but since I was getting one anyway, I got a Euro version with the little cubby:


















More coming soon.


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## badtzmar2 (May 15, 2011)

npace said:


> Driver's side front seat is together. I still need to finish one minor detail before I put the carpet in and can really get going on getting the interior together.
> 
> Not the best pic, but you get the idea:
> 
> ...


I don't have that specific seat, but my 2011 S-line Titanium edition came with that seat style except it had alcantara with white dots instead of the cloth in the middle. And it also had heated seats available too.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

badtzmar2 said:


> I don't have that specific seat, but my 2011 S-line Titanium edition came with that seat style except it had alcantara with white dots instead of the cloth in the middle. And it also had heated seats available too.


Like I said, these seats, as far as I know, were not available in North America. As in, black edition (that's what this trim is called in the UK) S-line seats with cloth inserts (not alcantara) and heat. 

In any event, most of the interior is in now. I still have to finish the front passenger seat and a few minor trim pieces. 
































I've been gathering engine-specific tools, so soon I'll be able to focus on some of the more fun items.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Xlnt stuff, I must say 



npace said:


> Like I said, these seats, as far as I know, were not available in North America. As in, black edition (that's what this trim is called in the UK) S-line seats with cloth inserts (not alcantara) and heat.
> 
> In any event, most of the interior is in now. I still have to finish the front passenger seat and a few minor trim pieces.
> 
> I've been gathering engine-specific tools, so soon I'll be able to focus on some of the more fun items.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

kgw said:


> Xlnt stuff, I must say


Thank you.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Progress*

First, Happy Father's Day to all my fellow Dads out there. Hope you are enjoying it. 

So, here's a small update. Interior is in. It looks like a driveable car now. 
















Next, I drained the coolant and started removing things. The ugly coolant bubble will remain out of the car. 
















I'm waiting on engine specific tools and some parts to come in. It seems IE no longer offers a fully built cylinder head. My plan was to use that, but I've decided in the interest of saving money and more work to go ahead and re-build myself with new stiffer springs, valves, and seals. I do not plan to remove / replace the valve guides as I see no need or benefit based on my projected power levels. I'm also looking at tuning, and I may actually take that part on myself. It will be a learning experience for sure, and take me out of my comfort zone, but will be worth it in the end. 

If anyone has experience tuning with Eurodyne Maestro, please let me know. I'll have a ton to do, but look forward to learning.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

One of the things I really like about long projects like this is being able to find excuses to get new tools. 

Take these for example:

















SK tools. Lesser known, but made in the USA and on par in terms of quality with Snap-On, Mac, and other high-end brands. This is a metric ratcheting wrench set that was almost $100 off on a father's day sale. 




Today the radiator came out, along with the fans and shroud. 
















The radiator is in good shape, just a few minor flat areas, which is normal with regular driving.
















But since it's out......
















Might as well upgrade to an all aluminum radiator with a slightly larger capacity. 

More parts are going to start coming out of the engine bay as I begin the cylinder head tear-down. I got my valve spring compressor and stem seal pliers in the mail today, and have a cylinder head stand on the way. If you guys are interested I'll post more pics of tools and how they're used, or I can just post pics of progress and leave it at that. Really this thread is for me to keep a record of everything, especially since the forums are a dying space and everyone is migrating to the gram or youtube.


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

npace said:


> If you guys are interested I'll post more pics of tools and how they're used, or I can just post pics of progress and leave it at that.



If you don't mind posting, I'm sure a few of us would find the tools info useful :thumbup:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Bronco said:


> If you don't mind posting, I'm sure a few of us would find the tools info useful :thumbup:


Sure, I'll do what I can. I warn you though, I'm no great photographer, and I'm not going to be doing any videography.


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

npace said:


> Sure, I'll do what I can. I warn you though, I'm no great photographer, and I'm not going to be doing any videography.


Warning accepted !! :laugh:

Ok, we get it, you're not a dasPonto type of photographer  but the documentation you provide is excellent so no worries !! 

Cheers,


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Tiny update: I have performance valves, valve seals, springs, and retainers on order and they've already shipped. I'm also in contact with a local machine shop that will be doing a performance valve job. 

This weekend I plan to get the passenger side wiring harness re-routed and tucked, remove the intake manifold, get the downpipe un-bolted, and remove the cylinder head. Depending on how much time I have, I will also tear down the cylinder head so I can get it to the machine shop as soon as possible.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

Looking good! :beer::thumbup:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

JRutter said:


> Looking good! :beer::thumbup:


Thank you very much. 

My plans for the weekend were a bit ambitious, but here's where I'm at so far-----


Intake manifold is off. Not the best pic, but you get the idea:
















It's hard to see, but the intake valves are actually not too bad. Black, but not all gunked up like others I've seen:
















And here's the intake manifold, with associated items such as fuel rail and throttle body:
















All but one of the injectors came off with the fuel rail. Not a huge issue since I'm replacing them, but they don't just pull out of the fuel rail, either. I'm going to have to figure something out with these.


I also removed some other items, namely the high pressure fuel pump and vacuum pump. 




























It's important to note that the vacuum manifold has to be placed properly onto the intake cam. It's keyed on the inside to fit on the end of the intake cam one way. Here's a shot of what I'm talking about:
















In the center, you can see the keyed section. Also, the lower oil screen (upper right side in this pic) is in good shape. Glad I don't have to replace it, just carefully clean a little gunk. 

Also, I took a look at the cam follower. This is the original one that came with the car when new in 2012:
















Definitely not the same as the problems associated with the FSI. Still, there's more scoring on this than I would like to see, so I'll be replacing it with a new one when the time comes. 


I'm also planning on doing the water pump while everything is out of the way and it's easy to access. In the next update, the cams should be out of the car, cylinder head removed, and getting ready to pull the valvetrain. I don't want to get too far ahead of myself, though. I plan to pull the exhaust manifold and turbo with the cylinder head, since those need to come out anyway. I'm not sure how difficult they will be to remove off the block.... I'm thinking I should at least try to loosen the exhaust manifold first. 

In any event, I'm not on a strict schedule and I'm taking my time so I get it right. I would rather things go slow and smooth than fast and reckless.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Okay, another question. I'm sure nobody will answer, and I'm still looking, but it's worth an ask here. I have the IE intake manifold, and have been transferring the necessary parts over (fuel rail, throttle body, evap). The IE manifold has a provision for the stock PCV, but it's a threaded hole with a metal valve and a silicone hose to replace the factory one. Since I have the IE PCV to a catch can, and won't use the stock style PCV, what are people using to block this off? I would prefer some kind of block off plate, but I can't seem to find one for this purpose on the IE page and don't know of one. Maybe I need to make one. 

If anyone has ideas, please let me know. If not I'll figure something out, but there may be a great idea out there that I haven't thought of.

Edit: For reference, here's the opening in question:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

This is taking much longer than anticipated, but progress is progress. I wasted a ton of time figuring out how to get the exhaust manifold nuts off the studs... really not looking forward to putting them back on. 

The culprits:
















With that done, I got the upper timing chain cover off and got everything ready to remove the valve cover / cam girdle.
















I decided to stop there. Not because I don't want to move on, but I probably won't get the cylinder head to the machine shop until next week anyway, and I want to take my time when I start removing the camshafts. I plan to get the valve cover, camshafts, and cylinder head out in one session in the garage. I also need to check with the machine shop that's doing the valve job to see how far down they want the head stripped. If I can leave in the valves, springs, and retainers and they remove them included in their price, then I'm going to take them up on it. 

Lastly, I got the fuel rail, injector harness, and throttle body, as well as some of the vacuum lines, all mocked up on the IE intake manifold. 















I cleaned up the oxidation and smoothed the throttle body a little, but I think I'm going to keep it how it is for a more "raw" look in the engine bay, and maybe do the other visible aluminum parts like that (alternator, engine mounts). The transmission already has this look, and I think everything would go together well that way.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Well, this build officially took on a new flavor tonight. I was all set to remove the valve cover and camshafts, but first, I had to remove the cam bridge. That's where things get interesting. To remove, you need one of these special tools:
















Here you can see why. The intake cam adjuster valve face, and the valve itself:




























This, the camshaft adjuster magnet, and the cam bridge, at a minimum, have to be replaced. Here's why:
















If you can't see in this pic, here's a better one:
















The oil screen on the cam bridge is broken... that center section is missing. I spent 4 hours looking for it to no avail. If I'm lucky, it's stuck somewhere in the cam bridge or the cam adjuster / N205 valve. If it's in the intake cam, I may have to replace that as well. 

The plan is to get the N205, magnet, and bridge and try to find the other piece or pieces when I remove the cam. If I can't find it, I'll probably replace the intake cam for "cheap" insurance, although I really don't want to. That's about $850 I didn't have in the budget, and will push back my ability to get other things done. 

Here's the Cylinder head with timing cover and cam bridge off... The good news is the oil looks really clean. 




























So that's where things are at. Tomorrow I'll continue to dismantle, since I still need to get the cams out and the cylinder head off and out to the machine shop.


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

Oh man, what an adventure !! That sure requires some awesome patience !

In your previous post you mentioned throttle body - I just had that replaced $$$ ;-(


Good luck with everything :thumbup:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Bronco said:


> Oh man, what an adventure !! That sure requires some awesome patience !
> 
> In your previous post you mentioned throttle body - I just had that replaced $$$ ;-(
> 
> ...



Thank you. Here's some more... making really good progress now. Should be able to drop the cylinder head off on Monday at the machine shop. 

First, getting the engine to TDC. Not difficult, but it takes some patience. Basically once you have the upper timing cover off, you have to rotate the crank pulley at the bottom of the engine until everything lines up. It's four rotations between when the timing marks are at the top and the camshafts are facing the right direction (marks pointed up). But.... the off-colored links won't line up exactly and may be off a couple of teeth. In the workshop manual, it doesn't say that the off-colored links need to be lined up, and after some research, I found out why... it takes 160 rotations of the engine (x4 at the crank for a full rotation, so 640 rotations of the crank) to get a perfect alignment. Here's what I ended up with....

The crank pulley:
















Kind of hard to see, but at the 4 O'clock, there's a notch on the pulley that lines up with an arrow on the lower timing cover. Sorry for the dark pic. Mine is a couple of mm off. This is nothing to worry about... I have done a few timing jobs now, and I've never once had an issue because all three weren't perfect... in fact I've never seen it where all three are perfectly centered.

The camshafts lined up perfectly. Like with timing belts or chains on DOHC engines, I've never seen it where the mark on the cams was directly in the middle of the link on a chain or directly with the mark on a timing belt. Both cams, and then a better shot of each one:








































Then the struggle began. To get the tensioner (yes, that tensioner, the one that has multiple revisions due to failure) to retract, you have to insert a lever (specialty tool) in between the chains and bolt it in the place of two cylinder head bolts:
















Then it gets really tricky. There's a little clip on the tensioner that you have to squeeze, while simultaneously pulling on the lever to retract the tensioner. Once retracted, you can then, while holding the lever in place, put in the little clip (another specialty tool... comes with a new tensioner, but who has that lying around?) to hold the tensioner in place. Huge props to Mrs. npace :heart: who held the lever in place once I got the tensioner retracted, so I could put the clip in. A note here as well.... I found that by pulling on the lever, and then releasing slightly multiple times (almost like pumping, but slow and easy, not fast) was the best way to do this. Brute force won't get the tensioner to just go in smoothly, and you might damage something. The tensioner works off of oil pressure, so pumping it basically forced oil out to allow it to retract. 

So here's the little clip holding the tensioner in place:
















Next up, you have to hold the cams in place to release the chain. These little tools do that, already in place:
















You also have to unbolt the left / rear chain guide to get space to hold the exhaust cam in. Once unbolted, you release the guide while counter-holding the exhaust cam with a wrench. I don't have three hands, so no pics of this, but it's not too bad. When I did this, the chain released and jumped a tooth on the exhaust cam, but that isn't really a problem because I already had the exhaust cam marked and at this point, you're two steps from removing the chain anyway. With that done, you remove the upper chain guide:
















It's interesting, all of the timing components only have audi logos and not VW. This includes the cams themselves. With that done, you can remove the chain from the cams. My method of holding the chain on the crankshaft:
















With that done, remove the 22 bolts holding on the valve cover. I found it came off pretty easy:
















And that's where I'm at. Cams need to come off and get wrapped up (after I inspect the intake cam for the missing screen debris  ) and then the lifters can come out. Then I can remove the head nuts and the head.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Cylinder head is free of everything and ready to come off! I haven't removed it yet because I basically want to put it right into the packaging for the machine shop and have the bottom end covered for as long as possible. 

In other good news, no need for a new intake camshaft. It isn't hollow all the way through, and you can see pretty easily to where it goes solid, and there's no little bits of screen blocking it. Here's what I'm talking about:
















After removing the camshafts, I wiped them down with a lint-free cloth and then wrapped them in cling wrap:
















And then removed the hydraulic lifters. I'm keeping track of where they go by using an ice cube tray. 16 ice cubes, 16 lifters. Coincidence?
















After getting them all in the trays, I used cling wrap on the tray to keep everything where it belongs. I did the same for the cylinder head nuts (I upgraded to ARP headstuds when I had the bottom end re-built), although there's only 10 of those.

Tomorrow it's off to the machine shop!


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## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

Hey Npace, impressive project to say the least, I got a quick question...

Is the entire middle console one long piece from front to back? I want to swap out the middle section where the armrest is and the ashtray for rear passengers sit. I found the bolts to unscrew in the back, not sure if i have to actually remove the entier mid section including the front tray and the black bars? 

I've done this before when I did a single din to double din conversion, just not sure if i do have to go all the way to remove the rear section.

Thanks in advance.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

everfresh59 said:


> Hey Npace, impressive project to say the least, I got a quick question...
> 
> Is the entire middle console one long piece from front to back? I want to swap out the middle section where the armrest is and the ashtray for rear passengers sit. I found the bolts to unscrew in the back, not sure if i have to actually remove the entier mid section including the front tray and the black bars?


Thanks! Yes, it's pretty much all one piece. I worked back to front. You have to remove the rear ashtray (it just pulls out) to expose a single bolt that holds in the armrest. Here is where I also un-plugged and removed the piece that lets the rear passengers lock the car. Once the armrest is un-bolted and removed, there's two bolts you can get to that hold the back of the center console down (I'm pretty sure on this...) you might be able to get to the two bolts without removing the armrest, but it has to come out either way. Then you can pry off the little trim piece that covers the handbrake. I think there's a bolt in there as well. If not, that still has to come off to pull the console over the handbrake. 

Then you have to pull the shift boot trim up from the center and remove the 4 bolts in there. With that out of the way, you can slide back and remove the ashtray or cargo area or whatever you have in front of the shift boot... this is how I got to the two front bolts that hold in the black grab bars you're talking about... they're back behind the climatronic. I had to use a long wobble bolt extension to get to them. Then there's a lower and upper bolt on each of those bars holding them in place. Remove those bars and then all you have left are two bolts on each side that are covered by a small little cover in the front footwell area. 

Lastly, you have to un-plug the handbrake sensor, the power to the accessories in the center console (12v power and aux input) and another plug by the shift module. I found it easiest to lift the console straight up around the footwell, and then push back, then up, then back. Just go slow in case I forgot something here because it's everything I remember but I might have missed a step or two.


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## groesche (Dec 18, 2000)

npace said:


> If you can't see in this pic, here's a better one:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I thought that screen isn't necessary and will degrade even after replacing the bridge anyways . When I serviced mine, I just pulled the last remaining portion of the plug out and have been running it that way ever since.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

groesche said:


> I thought that screen isn't necessary and will degrade even after replacing the bridge anyways . When I serviced mine, I just pulled the last remaining portion of the plug out and have been running it that way ever since.


It will degrade. The problem is I can't find the remnants. The most likely scenario is that it's particles that ran through the engine and hopefully got caught in the oil filter. It's possible, however, that it can clog the variable intake valve and / or the intake camshaft and lead to catastrophic damage. This has been well documented by DAP, Humble Mechanic, and a few others. Since I ruled out the camshaft, but can't find it, I can't be sure that it still isn't in the camshaft bridge or variable intake valve. Best bet is to replace. I will remove the oil screen on the new bridge, however.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

I haven't gotten to the machine shop yet. I was ready to go, but after more research found out that using the stock steel valve guides with the new stainless valves isn't really a good idea; the two materials can cause galling on the valves and reduce reliability. 

With that in mind, I ordered new valve guides that aren't here yet, so the head isn't at the machine shop yet. I also compiled a list of everything left to do. I'm sure this isn't exhaustive, but it will get the car about to where I want it. The list isn't in any order, it's basically me throwing out everything I want done:

1. Cylinder Head to Machine Shop
2. Order fittings for coolant system
3. order coolant
4. replace brake reservoir and upper clutch line
5. route pass. side harness
6. remove strut tower brackets
7. install aluminum water pump
8. install radiator and fans
9. order fuel pump and injectors
10. install intake manifold, fuel pump, and injectors
11. order turbo
12. install turbo onto head
13. install head onto block
14. ceramic coat header and downpipe
15. convert downpipe to v-band
16. Make oil return hard line
17. install interior trim (rear quarters, door sills, front kick panels)
18. in-tank fuel pump
19. call ohlins USA
20. send off "new" struts for rebuild
21. order ground control kit
22. order 034 front strut mounts
23. remove downpipe
24. replace front flex disc
25. bleed brakes
26. drain remaining oil / replace
27. install coolant res. and refill coolant
28. upper rad hose fitting?
29. clean head (after getting back) and check valve clearance
30. order and install fluidampr with ARP crank bolt and new belt
31. remove, clean, reinstall alternator
32. secure pass. side cables in wheel well
33. fuel lines.... probably later with seats and brakes
34. recaro front seats
35. wilwood front brakes
36. wheels (CCW? not sure yet)
37. Re-heat and seal pass. headlight
38. route and plumb vacuum system
39. buy software and tune
40. win the lottery

So that's it. Move #40 to #1 and the rest should happen pretty easy. :facepalm:


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## strangetdi (Feb 5, 2002)

npace said:


> Move #40 to #1 and the rest should happen pretty easy. :facepalm:


Love it. Very interesting build. Way above my pay grade.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

strangetdi said:


> Love it. Very interesting build. Way above my pay grade.


It's expensive, but less so if you do all (or almost all) of the work yourself. COVID is actually helping me move this along faster than expected. I am teleworking, so I have more time to do it, and the annual family vacation was cancelled, which freed up some money in the budget.


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## groesche (Dec 18, 2000)

Who's H2O pump are you getting?
As I understand it there's a couple of manufacturers of it, Italian (Graf) & German (Hepu). They have all aluminum versions.

Graf from DAP:
https://www.shopdap.com/make-model-year/audi/a3/2009-2013/engine/2-0-turbo-tsi/repair/cooling-system/water-pump-assembly-for-2-0t-tsi-graf-all-aluminum-pa-1359.html

Hepu from Europaparts:
https://www.europaparts.com/water-pump-assembly-06h121026dd-aluminum.html

And there's USP:
https://www.uspmotorsports.com/06H-121-026-DD-USP-Cast-Aluminium-Water-Pump.html

They state that there's is patent pending (It's not a Graf or Hepu, is it modified from one of those sources????) and has a metal impeller with a lifetime warranty. I couldn't see any casting marks on it like Hepu or Graf.

Do the others have plastic impellers but aluminum housings?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

groesche said:


> Who's H2O pump are you getting?
> Do the others have plastic impellers but aluminum housings?


I got the Graf one, but not from DAP; I got a kit from ECS tuning. It has a metal impeller. I'll snap some pics later. The kit came with the metal union fitting that goes from the water pump to the oil cooler (stock is plastic). Uro parts makes that. The kit also came with a new conti (OEM) belt and hardware.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Cylinder head actually went to the machinist today... he said I should get it back in about a week. Super excited to see how it turns out, but I've got a way to go before I start the car again. I think I posted earlier, but if not, I did end up getting upgraded valve guides. I wasn't going to but after more research I learned that the stock steel ones can cause galling on the new ferrea valves because of the material. So those didn't show up until last night, and the head went to the machine shop today. 

IE springs and retainers:
















I packaged up all the stuff so it would be really easy for the machinist and to make sure nothing got lost.
















I also took pics of all the numbers stamped and etched into the head:
















Lastly, one of the things I recommend investing in if you do something like this is a cylinder head stand. Sets on a table, and has tapered pins that sit in the stud holes so you can work on / around the cylinder head without any of the surfaces touching anything. 
















Next up is some work on the downpipe, cleaning the block surface and piston surfaces, and sending some pieces off for ceramic coating.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Well, I can't get the down-pipe to separate from the mid-pipe. I need heat to do it, but my torch is out of butane, so when that happens, I can get that out. On to other things. 

I found a set of Ohlins VWS M100 shocks (which they don't make anymore) and got them for a steal at $600. The plan is to have a complete second set of coilovers, so that when I need one rebuilt, I can swap on the second set without any downtime. Well, I want to have these extras re-built, but can't get in touch with anyone from Ohlins USA. I've called and emailed multiple times. I don't know if they've shut down operations due to COVID or if they're just super backed up. So my backup plan is to call PSI later today and see if they can do it. 

Also, I'm cleaning the carbon off the pistons on the bottom end and getting ready to ship off the exhaust manifold and down-pipe for ceramic coating. 

That's about it for an update, sorry for no pics. I'll get some up later, hopefully tonight.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Okay, so no pics in this update. If you just want to see pics of shiny parts, go ahead and ignore this post. But if you want to learn something (as I did this week) continue on. I'll start by saying that I'm very lucky in that the machinist I'm working with is incredibly competent and professional, and he basically saved me from a future disaster. Here's the deal: nowhere in any forum, youtube video, the Bentley manual (I'll touch on that later) or even places that sell performance parts, does anyone talk about requirements for an upgraded valve train. (At least not for the TSI engine) 

In many ways, this is more complex than upgrading the bottom end, because with the bottom end (relatively) inexpensive tools can be used to take and confirm measurements. As long as you aren't trying to alter the crank or overbore and can manage a ring file, stock sized pistons and upgraded con-rods can be done in a home garage. This is not really the case with the valve train, for a couple of reasons. 

First, if you simply buy aftermarket valves, seals, guides, springs, and retainers and install them, you probably won't have them seat properly. Even with stock sized valves, it is highly unlikely that they will just seal to the head without machining. Aftermarket guides will also be smaller in diameter than the valve stems, to allow machining to the preferred tolerance for the valves in question. Finally, you will have a valve retainer to rocker clearance minimum that needs to be maintained for the proper cam profile for the engine. This gets even more complicated if you plan to run aftermarket or ground cams to change the lift and duration. All of this I knew, which is why I went to a machine shop in the first place. 

Another consideration is that aftermarket valve springs will be stiffer than stock. What I didn't know is that in many (but not all) cases, they will be slightly taller, to allow for machining. I also didn't know that the TSI and FSI engines, with aluminum heads, do not come from the factory with shims. What this means is that the springs sit on the aluminum, which is fine for stock, but when you are increasing the pressure, you have harder steel springs pressing into softer aluminum at higher pressures, with (probably) more heat from the higher RPMs and boost since it's a performance application. Hardened shims are a requirement, but it's not like you can just buy any shim, because you need to know the required thickness.

Bottom line: if you buy an aftermarket valve train and just install it, you will have a poor running engine because the valves won't seat / seal properly, and you will also damage the cylinder head. All this said, when doing this make sure to have a few things:

1. A machinist you trust. Mine called me, told me there were no shims, and asked for information I didn't immediately have. 
2. Specifically, you want to know the recommended seat pressure, the install height, and the spring rate. This will help your machinist determine the required shim thickness and save you time and money in the end.
3. Know that the Bentley is a guide, like anything else. The workshop manual details how to remove and install valves and springs, but doesn't talk about any of this because it assumes you will use stock OEM replacement parts. 
4. Don't be afraid to call people and ask questions. Throughout this process, I've spoken with tech support at ferrea (manufacturer of my valves) and I've also emailed and called IE (valve springs, guides, and seals) multiple times. 
5. Unless it's a Formula 1 or NASCAR team, most engine builders out-source their machining, unless they are big enough to have a dedicated machine shop. If you just buy this stuff and take it to a shop for install (even a well-known place), they will probably install it for you, but you're likely to run into problems. 
6. Wherever you go, have this discussion upfront, and if they aren't involved in the conversation or don't know, don't be afraid to take your business somewhere else. Ask who the machinist is, and if you can talk to them about seat pressures and recommended shim thickness. If they can't or aren't willing to have this discussion, DO NOT have your valve job done there. 

Okay, I know that was long, and maybe a bit boring for a lot of you, but I wanted to make sure to put this out there for those that don't or might not know. I'm glad I have an honest machinist, because until a few days ago, I didn't know.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Not a lot of pics, but progress is progress. This wasn't hard, but it took a while. I cleaned the piston tops and combustion chamber (just the top, the inside where the rings run were spotless). 

Before:
















After:
















Not going for perfectly spotless here, just want it clean of the carbon buildup for some smoother operation. Also, having it clean will make checking valve clearances way easier when I get the head back. I'm not going to clean the gasket mating surface yet, since I have to put the old gasket back on to check valve clearance and then clean it again anyway.


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## PreMier (Jan 4, 2006)

npace said:


> Okay, so no pics in this update. If you just want to see pics of shiny parts, go ahead and ignore this post. But if you want to learn something (as I did this week) continue on. I'll start by saying that I'm very lucky in that the machinist I'm working with is incredibly competent and professional, and he basically saved me from a future disaster. Here's the deal: nowhere in any forum, youtube video, the Bentley manual (I'll touch on that later) or even places that sell performance parts, does anyone talk about requirements for an upgraded valve train. (At least not for the TSI engine)
> 
> In many ways, this is more complex than upgrading the bottom end, because with the bottom end (relatively) inexpensive tools can be used to take and confirm measurements. As long as you aren't trying to alter the crank or overbore and can manage a ring file, stock sized pistons and upgraded con-rods can be done in a home garage. This is not really the case with the valve train, for a couple of reasons.
> 
> ...


 i havent been around i na while, but this is great info. I have considered going a bigger turbo and would need to upgrade the valve train. in the uk here there are a lot of shops that are reputable for building racing motors, but this is something that i never even thought of to ask. it can save a lot of trouble :thumbup:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

PreMier said:


> i havent been around i na while, but this is great info. I have considered going a bigger turbo and would need to upgrade the valve train. in the uk here there are a lot of shops that are reputable for building racing motors, but this is something that i never even thought of to ask. it can save a lot of trouble :thumbup:


Thanks. If I was going to do this all over again, I would probably go with a valvetrain kit from supertech. The springs and retainers I got from IE are high quality and there's nothing wrong with them, but I had to get separate shims from supertech anyway, and it was difficult to find the right thickness and inner / outer diameter. Supertech has a complete kit that takes out all the work of measuring and finding shims, assuming your head hasn't been machined before. If it has, you probably have different machining requirements. They also sell their own high temp seals, so guides would be the only thing you might source elsewhere.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Things are starting to go back together. I removed the alternator, cleaned it up really good, and put it back on. I also cleaned up the engine accessory bracket and oil cooler, and installed the new water pump / thermostat / belt, cleaned up the water pump belt cover, and put that on as well. Then I connected the lower radiator hose to the water pump, and the water pump to the heater core. 

So here it all is:
















I think it's starting to look pretty good.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Got up early and took another small step forward. The hose from the brake reservoir to the clutch master was leaking. I wasn't sure if it was the line or the reservoir, so I replaced both. 

Off:
















The OEM hose has been updated and is plastic now :screwy: I'm assuming it will be fine. You can see it in the pic below installed with the new res.


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

Great work man !! :thumbup:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Bronco said:


> Great work man !! :thumbup:


Thanks. 

Got a package in the mail today:


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

Nice! :thumbup:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

I've made a little progress, but nothing exciting or worth posting pics over. Got the passenger side harness tucked and routed. In the process, eliminated some wires that I won't be using, like the coolant ball and all the stuff for the windshield washer. 

Also, the hits keep coming. I don't have the cylinder head back yet. Machine shop called me a little over a week ago. They had everything done, and were doing a skim off the bottom, when the bit came loose and gouged the head. So.... I have a brand new one coming from Audi. Machinist was super cool about it and is taking care of it... he could have gotten it TIG'd and not told me, so not all bad. 

It really isn't setting me back anyway, because I still need to send of the exhaust manifold and downpipe for ceramic. Things are definitely going slow right now, but once those get coated and the head comes back, everything should start going together quickly.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

When it comes to project car building, one of the commandments appears to be "thou shall not catch a break".

Machine shop sent me this pic:
















That is the tab on the valve cover / cam girdle that holds on one of the timing chain guides. And yes, that is the brand new cylinder head, ordered direct from Audi. :banghead:

So, machine shop is exchanging it for another one. :sigh: At this rate, I'll be lucky if I can drive it by Christmas.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Another update. According to audiusaparts.com that was the last new cylinder head in North America. I can get a OEM reman one (one re-manufactured by audi) or wait 5 weeks for a new one from Germany. I told the machine shop I was fine with the OEM reman one. They're basically brand new as far as the block goes, as they are primarily cores from bent valves. Audi / VW does not accept cylinder heads with external damage, so I know it will be a good unit. The machine shop will still be doing a performance valve job on it, so no worries with the valve guides or valves since that will all come out anyway. 

Well, that's all for now. Still making (very) slow progress, but nothing picture worthy. All the wiring is completely run and tucked, I just need to pick up a few items so I can cover the hole in the firewall and fix a connector that's broken. Once that's done I can install the interior (again) and hopefully start slamming this thing together soon.


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## ArclitGold (Apr 21, 2009)

Wahooo! Frustrating about all the troubles but you’re making the best of it


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Some of the bolts I removed when taking the car apart had superficial rust on them. Nothing major, and they certainly could be re-used, but it bothered me. So I decided to try my hand at electroplating. It's relatively simple and can be done with great results as long as you clean the surface to be plated really well. I went with nickel, but zinc can be done the same. Copper can be done as well, but requires nickel plating first, because copper won't react with the steel.

Here's my setup:
















And here's the result:
















It comes out uneven, but can easily be buffed to a nice shine. I'm not doing that with these since they are the bolts that hold on the headlight under the grill, and nobody will ever see them.


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## ArclitGold (Apr 21, 2009)

Oh sweet! Did you get a kit? Mind sharing what resources you used?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

ArclitGold said:


> Oh sweet! Did you get a kit? Mind sharing what resources you used?


No kit... those are way more expensive than doing it yourself. For the electrolyte, all you need is white vinegar, water, and table salt. It's about 50 /50 vinegar / water and then about a tablespoon of salt mixed up. You don't have to use salt but it does speed the reaction time (see below). I stole some mason jars from my wife, but you can use any glass or plastic container. I would recommend something with a lid, because the electrolyte solution will last about forever once you make it. 

I ordered some alligator clips, a "nickel anode" and d battery holder (lets you connect them in series or parallel) from amazon. All told, this setup cost less than $20. 

To make the electrolyte solution, you put two anodes in the water / vinegar / salt mix and connect positive to one and negative to the other. The solution turns greenish after about 2-3 hours, then its ready for plating. With the metal you want to plate, you simply remove the negative one, hang the part you want to plate into the solution from some copper wire, and connect negative to the wire. It bubbles, and you're plating. Takes about 45 minutes to get a good coat.

I did nickel, but you can do zinc or copper as well. If you want to do a yellow zinc passivate, that's possible as well, but I'm not sure what the extra steps are to add the color. With copper, if you want a brilliant copper shine, you have to plate in nickel first, then do it again in copper (separate solution, same process but with copper anodes instead) because copper won't bond directly to steel. Then you can have some nice shiny copper bolts if that's your thing. Nickel, zinc, and copper will all shine up nicely if you take the time to buff them out, but I was just going for corrosion prevention here since these bolts are hidden and I'm lazy.


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## ArclitGold (Apr 21, 2009)

Awesome write up! Thanks for that. I’ll have to give it a shot


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

Nicely done !! Your creativity never ends :thumbup:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

ArclitGold said:


> Awesome write up! Thanks for that. I’ll have to give it a shot


Thanks. I hope it works out. This was my first attempt at this. If you need more help, just look it up on youtube. There's quite a few how-to's that are really good. 





Bronco said:


> Nicely done !! Your creativity never ends :thumbup:


Thanks! 

Nothing big, but chipping away at it. I removed the old exhaust wrap from the downpipe and this was the result:
















I don't think I'll ever use this stuff again. It makes a mess, doesn't last long, and is a nightmare to work around if you have to do anything near where it lives (I was itchy for the next day and a half after this, and that's wearing gloves and long sleeves). I planned on doing ceramic coating, but can't afford it at the moment, so I'm looking into other heat management options.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

This post is overdue, and it's going to look like I haven't done that much. This took me way longer than expected, and you're probably thinking it's ridiculous that this update took as long as it did, and you're right. The thing is, I think I'm _finally_ done with wiring (knocks on wood). I ran pretty much everything through the frame rail on the driver's side, which requires de-pinning and then re-pinning all the connectors, and extending some of the lines. 

Also, I wanted to patch the hole in the firewall, but still needed to run the MAF harness, the brake sensor, and the upstream O2 sensor. I also kept the wheel speed sensor harness running through here, because it didn't make sense to have the empty hole in the fender well and then drill another hole into the frame rail for it. Same with the MAF, O2, and brake sensors; I would have had to drill a separate hole for those, so 2 extra holes in the frame rail seemed like a bad idea to me for structural reasons. 

Okay, long explanation, but here's what I ended up with. I used some thin aluminum sheet metal, a rubber throttle cable grommet from a Chevy II, and 2 M6 bolts for a hotrod inspired firewall pass-thru. Here's my first attempt at it:
















I wasn't super happy with it, so I ended up making another one. No pics of it off the car, but here's the final result:
















Because of where these cars have the firewall pass-thru (all the way behind the shock tower in the corner) it took me a really long time to get this to where I'm moderately happy with it. Just getting the nutserts into those locations was a lesson in patience and persistence. I still think it could be better; I used some flame resistant cut it yourself exhaust gasket material behind the aluminum to make sure and have everything safe, and so I think the way it sits looks awkward. 

Now that that's done, however, things should fall into place rather quickly. I can finish putting the interior in. I also ordered a new exhaust heat shield that will do what I want without the need to put sh**ty exhaust wrap back on. Lastly, the machine shop has another cylinder head in as of yesterday, and it looks to be correct without anything broken on it. When that comes back, things will really start to take off.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Thorough...the honest way!  You'll enjoy it the hell out of it...


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

kgw said:


> Thorough...the honest way!  You'll enjoy it the hell out of it...


Thanks! 

I got the complete interior back in the car today, and got in my heat shield solution as well as a new O2 sensor. The heat shield is a ceramic fiber with aluminum backing. Should do the job without all the complications of heat wrap. 

New O2 sensor from Bosch:
















On the exhaust with new heat shield:
















Still a ton to do, but inching closer.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Another update. Got one more item checked off the list, replaced the front flex disc on the driveshaft. The original one was okay and could have run longer, but it's a PITA to get to, and with the cylinder head and turbo out of the way it made sense to just take care of it. It took me quite a while because in order to get the clearance needed, I found it necessary to lower the subframe. The workshop manual does not consider this necessary, but I could not find a way to get the driveshaft clear of the transfer case without doing so. 

Counter-holding proved to be difficult, and after a few attempts at using a screwdriver through one of the holes, I ended up using a camshaft tool, like so:
















Camshaft tool is with the blue handle, basically it has two pins that thread into the end of it and it's hinged so you can adjust the size to get to the holes of whatever it is you're trying to hold in place or rotate. That done, I had a chance to compare old and new. Old on the left, new on the right:
















The main reason I decided to do this was that big dent on the topside of the old driveshaft. That done, I put the new one in and torqued to spec with new bolts, which was just as much fun as removal, since counter-holding was still necessary. I also used blue loctite on the threads, which isn't required but I want to make sure that there are no issues. Here's the new one, all mounted up:
















And that's where it's at. I'm starting to run out of things to do until I get my cylinder head back. Next up is replacing the timing chain tensioner. I wasn't going to do this, but I'm going to be replacing the stock vibration damper with a fluidampr, and since I'm basically 80% of the way there, I figured I should just go ahead and remove the lower timing cover and go for it.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

More engine work today... which is really all I have left. I decided to move forward with replacing the timing chain tensioner and removing the lower timing cover. I think I'll leave it off until I check valve clearance and am ready to install the cylinder head for the last time; I can remove the bolts for and lower the front guide rail so it's easier to get the cylinder head on and off. 

Anyway, I went to start, and ran into an issue right away. Getting to the middle bolt on the engine mount bracket was just about impossible, at least with what I have for tools. So, I had to make my own. I have a set of extra long triple square sockets that I have literally never used (5 years and counting). So I measured the appropriate length and cut the M12 one so I could use it on the mount.




























That let me slide the bit in and use a 12mm wrench to get it off. Not looking forward to replacing it and using a crow's foot to torque. 
















And for my hard work, I was rewarded:
















Next was pulley removal. I went ahead and got the pulley removal tool... not required but it gave me piece of mind. I was able to find an aftermarket one used on ebay, so cheap to start and then even cheaper. 
















Pulley removed, donut spacer and crank bolt in place:




























After that, it was pretty easy to get the timing cover off and get everything exposed, oil looks really good, which is encouraging:
















I probably should have done this first, but now the new tensioner is sitting in an oil bath:
















If I did that when I started, it would be on the car right now. Well, that's where the car is at. Tensioner will go on tomorrow, and then I'll keep playing the waiting game for the cylinder head.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

You are going to know that car like the palm of your hand, npace


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)




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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Be still my heart!!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

kgw said:


> Be still my heart!!


Yep. Super excited. I still need to clock it and everything, but finally pulled the trigger. I also got a call from the machine shop, and my new cylinder head is ready to go. All I need to do now is figure out what fuel injectors to get and order them.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

New cylinder head, still has stickers on the valve cover:
















Shiny new valves:








































Getting everything setup now. I clocked the turbo and torqued the housing to spec, and put on the wastegate actuator / bracket. I'll get some pics a little later and post them.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Shiny stuff is great...:thumbup:


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## Jimmyk.mo (Nov 5, 2020)

This is an awesome build!! Almost makes me wish mine wasn't a TDI. Keep up the good work!!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

kgw said:


> Shiny stuff is great...:thumbup:



Thanks.




Jimmyk.mo said:


> This is an awesome build!! Almost makes me wish mine wasn't a TDI. Keep up the good work!!



Thank you! 

Here's some more. I sprayed the turbo manifold gasket with copper gasket spray since it didn't have any kind of coating on it:




























And mounted up the turbo with new copper self-locking bolts:




























Not sure if I shared the turbo specs... thinking I didn't. It's a Gen 2 GTX 3071R with compact housing, so it fits exactly as the GT28 did. Housings are upgraded stainless and it's got a .64 AR. Despite the bigger size, it should spool faster than the 28 and have a higher top end, so it's win-win without the drawbacks normally associated with going to a bigger turbo. 

I also got all new fittings for a clean install. I still have to get injectors and a tune for everything to work, but otherwise it's closer to running and driving than it looks.


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

Awesome !!! :thumbup:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Bronco said:


> Awesome !!! :thumbup:


Thanks! 

Got my cylinder head installed yesterday. Chain stayed in place this whole time until I went to put it on the camshafts, and then jumped a tooth on the crank. Fortunately, installing the chains is actually not terribly difficult, just something where you have to pay attention to detail and follow the steps. 








































All in all, not too bad of a job. If I could do it over again, I wouldn't worry so much about the timing chain on the crankshaft. I would say unless you have _*ALL*_ of the appropriate VW tools and are going to only have the cylinder head off for a day or two, removing the lower timing cover is necessary. Getting enough slack in the chain to go back over the camshafts while keeping the chain in place on the crank proved to be difficult, and I think it's doable, but I would want to make sure, even if that means buying a new lower timing cover, sealant, and a bolt. 

Lastly, with the valve cover, I got these nice ARP bolts to go on. So once my new pulley and crankshaft bolt arrive, pretty much all of the critical bolts in the engine will be ARP.
















I still need to install the camshaft bridge, release the tension on the new timing chain tensioner, and get the covers installed. After that I can get to installing the turbo \m/...(>.<)…\m/


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

Those are very healthy looking insides.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

I got the cam bridge on and took some pics, but I had to take it back off. With the cam bridge on, the timing chain was lifting off the intake cam a little, and then dropping back onto it when I turned the engine over. I think it was caused by the much stiffer valve springs; when the cam lobe comes off the lifters the valve springs snap back into position faster than how slowly I'm turning the crank by hand, if that makes sense. This shouldn't really happen, however, and since I have a new tensioner, the only thing I can think of is that the timing chain is stretched and needs to be replaced. 

So the timing chain is off again, and I ordered a new one. When it comes in, I'll compare the two, and hopefully the new one will be a little shorter. It makes sense in my case that the chain could be stretched without the guides being really worn. The car has low mileage (a little under 35k), so the chain hasn't run against the guides, and the guides were replaced when the bottom end was built only a few thousand miles ago (about 31k). But the chain has been under tension for the life of the car, so I could see where it could be stretched a little. Of course, I could be completely wrong and have just wasted money I don't really have, but we'll see.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Different engine, but...Look at how a little bit becomes large  The tension on the chain is key! From my forays on the edge of the German forums, chains do not stretch. Good stuff here! 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VOtrlFvmqU0&feature=youtu.be



npace said:


> I got the cam bridge on and took some pics, but I had to take it back off. With the cam bridge on, the timing chain was lifting off the intake cam a little, and then dropping back onto it when I turned the engine over. I think it was caused by the much stiffer valve springs; when the cam lobe comes off the lifters the valve springs snap back into position faster than how slowly I'm turning the crank by hand, if that makes sense. This shouldn't really happen, however, and since I have a new tensioner, the only thing I can think of is that the timing chain is stretched and needs to be replaced.
> 
> So the timing chain is off again, and I ordered a new one. When it comes in, I'll compare the two, and hopefully the new one will be a little shorter. It makes sense in my case that the chain could be stretched without the guides being really worn. The car has low mileage (a little under 35k), so the chain hasn't run against the guides, and the guides were replaced when the bottom end was built only a few thousand miles ago (about 31k). But the chain has been under tension for the life of the car, so I could see where it could be stretched a little. Of course, I could be completely wrong and have just wasted money I don't really have, but we'll see.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

kgw said:


> Different engine, but...Look at how a little bit becomes large  The tension on the chain is key! From my forays on the edge of the German forums, chains do not stretch. Good stuff here!
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VOtrlFvmqU0&feature=youtu.be


I realize that nothing actually "stretches" but the chain can get elongated from a lack of regular maintenance and / or oil... in my case the car has been sitting without running for over a year, and I'm not convinced that the previous tensioner was 100% doing it's job. Also, the way the chain goes onto the cams and crank on a TSI is different; you have to put the camshafts into position (you check based on distance from the center guide rail), then place the chain over the camshafts loose, then get it in place on the crank, then put in the front (intake side) guide rail, then the rear, and then release the tensioner. Before you release the tensioner you will have the top and front tight, but there's still significant slack on the exhaust side until you release the tensioner. I have a new tensioner, so I am left to think that the problem is the chain itself; although I will say proper oil pressure buildup prior to a start will add tension to the chain. I already took off the cam bridge, removed the chain, and removed the valve cover / cam girdle, but if it's still happening with the new chain I'll take a video of it and post it up here. I'll also post a side by side of old vs new chain.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Yes, poor servicing can make the chain links wear; that was mentioned in the German forums. Keeping the oils clean, on a prompt schedule, is the key :thumbup:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Haven't put the new chain on yet (arrived yesterday). 

I decided to remove the valve cover / cam girdle to re-check the cams and rockers for positioning, because I figured if the chain lifting issue was there, it wasn't that much more work at this point. 

With the cams out, all the rockers were in position. I made sure everything was clean and re-lubed all the surfaces with engine assembly lube. Don't mind the excess lube on the sealing surfaces and in the plug holes below; I cleaned all that up before actually putting the cover back on.
















That done, I lubed the cams and put them back in place.
















With those in place, I had to re-install the cover. Prior to all this, I bought anaerobic sealant, but the new cylinder head came with the OEM branded stuff, which is green instead of red and significantly more expensive for some reason. 

This is what the tube looks like with part number, if anyone is tackling something like this and wants the OEM one:
















It's a little thick on the cover in this pic, but I wiped off the thick sections and made sure it wasn't going to seep all over the place inside the head. A little bit is probably fine, as there was some excess on the inside when I removed it. This, I assume, is the reason the workshop manual calls for anaerobic sealant instead of regular gasket silicone; it won't harden and clog oil passages and will just come out with then next oil change as long as there isn't too much in there. 



















Later tonight I expect to have the timing chain on, the engine timed up, the cam girdle on, and be able to turn over the engine by hand, hopefully without the chain lifting like before.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Most, definitely, looking good. As an old Thai waiter used to say to me as he laid the check on the table, "Take your time, take your time..."


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

kgw said:


> Most, definitely, looking good. As an old Thai waiter used to say to me as he laid the check on the table, "Take your time, take your time..."


Great advice for almost anything. And thank you. Turns out the chain was lifting because I forgot to put the spring / clip on the tensioner all the way back. It doesn't have oil pressure, so when you get to the peak of the intake cam on the rockers, the pressure pushes back on the tensioner and that little bit is enough to let the chain lift for a fraction of the rotation. This information *is not* in the workshop manual, BTW. I got the engine all timed up, _*again*_, and the chain was lifting, *again*. Instantly, my mind goes to WTF!?!?!!?! What am I doing wrong? I decided to take a break instead of ripping everything apart again, calm down, and think my way through it. I went back and looked at some information online, used google, and saw where someone recommended to put that spring / clip back all the way because it will let itself get pushed in without oil pressure. Did that, took all of 2 seconds, and bam.... no more lifting on the chain! 

So, here's where I'm at:

Chain is on the engine, all the guides are in place, and the tension is on, everything lined up.
















Next was the cam bridge. I was worried about the missing screen from my original one, so I bought a new one. Screen still in place:
















Popped that sucker off:
















For anyone that needs to install a new one of these, you have to lubricate the oil passage in the intake cam journal before installing, like so:
















One more thing, all the little T30 bolts that go on the cam bridge, valve cover, etc, have a low torque threshold of 8 or 9 nm (*not* ft-lbs). I got this little torque wrench from a company called Hazet, made in Germany (it was actually the only one readily available that went that low). I will say, this thing is a dream to use, and I plan on replacing all of my torque wrenches with Hazet ones, just as soon as I win the lottery and / or slot machine jackpot. Seriously, this thing is nice. 

















I also got a new control valve; box with part number in case anyone's interested:
















Let it soak in an oil bath, removed, and installed after installing the cam bridge:
















That's how it currently sits. Next is to install the lower timing cover, upper timing cover, cam control magnet, dipstick / tube, turbo, and oil / coolant lines for the turbo.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Maybe I'm getting old or I don't like change, but I am not enjoying the "improved experience" of the forum. Anyway, someone asked, and the screen is not required over the check valve on the cam bridge. Here's a link to a .pdf from the AERA engine builder's association which discusses the issue and states that the screen is not required: http://www.engineprofessional.com/TB/TB091917-1.pdf


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Good stuff! Do you still have a day job?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Teleworking... one can find all kinds of things to do in the garage while drinking coffee between video meetings. 

Got all this done before the forum software swap, but had to wait. For some reason our little section of the forum only works on VWvortex and not Fourtitude  

Anyway, got the lower timing cover on the car. It was a new one from elring, which I think is the OEM supplier to Audi. Either way, it's made in Germany and feels really well made. I went ahead and used a white paint marker to mark out the arrow for the crank pulley / damper TDC location while it was off. The other two white marks were on the cover when I got it, some kind of quality check at the factory I assume. 














The kit came with the elring brand silicone sealant, so I used that instead of the Permatex stuff, which is what I normally get. Not sure f there's a difference. 











Probably no big deal, but I did feel the cover touch a few places / times while I was putting it on after adding the silicone. I think it's more likely that it was the oil spout on the inside of the cover since that protrudes and it felt like it touched in the center, if that makes sense, but I plan to turn the crank and make sure the chains are still clean once I get the pulley back on. 

You read that right, the pulley is still off. I've had a fluidampr with ARP bolt on order since October and still don't have it . It's irritating, but I guess maybe it's also a result of COVID. 🤷‍♂️

Anyway, nothing fancy, but here it is installed:













I also got new gaskets for the upper timing cover, but haven't installed the cover since I'm waiting for the pulley so I can turn the crank and check the chains.... FML. 

New gaskets:





















Lastly, I put in a new intake cam seal:












So, I'm waiting for that fluidampr, so I can put it on and crank over the engine, and then install the new accessory belt, and then install the upper timing cover and cam adjuster magnet, and then install the motor mount, so that I can support the weight of bolting the manifold and new turbo onto the back of the car. 

The place I ordered from says I should have those by December 3rd, but they already pushed my ship date back twice. I'm considering getting a new OEM crank bolt, putting the stock pulley back on, and then moving forward and just installing the fluidampr whenever I finally get it.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

OK, how was Thanksgiving break? Now, back to the real work!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

kgw said:


> OK, how was Thanksgiving break? Now, back to the real work!


I would like to be further along, but I'm being held up by a few things. I need the fluidampr and ARP bolt or the OEM crank bolt that I ordered. OEM bolt should ship by tomorrow, Fluidampr is scheduled to ship on the 3rd. I want one of these before putting the upper timing cover on so I can rotate the engine over a few more times and make sure I don't have sealant on the timing chain. This is also keeping me from putting the engine mount back on, which is keeping me from putting the turbo on. It's more weight and I don't feel comfortable with putting it on while the engine side is held up by a transmission jack and a wooden block. 

I got a notification that fuel injectors shipped today, so that will let me finally put on the intake manifold, which will in turn let me know how much space I have to install the HPFP hard line and route the vacuum hoses, once I get the engine mount on of course. 

After that, I can finally put the radiator in, mount up my coolant reservoir, and really get going on all the hardware. Then the tuning nightmare starts. Originally I thought I would have no problem getting it done by Christmas, but time is getting away from me. Unfortunately it all hinges on the damper, which I ordered back in October.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

That does sound like real work...The ups and downs appear to equal 50%, at least in one's own mind


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Fluidampr and ARP bolt shipped last night. I should have them both by Saturday, along with the fuel injectors, which means I should be able to start again.


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## gravediGGGer (Feb 20, 2008)

Just caught up with the thread and can't thank you enough for sharing all this info even if most of it goes over my head. Keep it up and good luck with getting all the parts you're waiting on.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

gravediGGGer said:


> Just caught up with the thread and can't thank you enough for sharing all this info even if most of it goes over my head. Keep it up and good luck with getting all the parts you're waiting on.


Thanks.... glad you're enjoying it. I got the fluidampr and ARP bolt today and got a pretty good amount of work done. I'm too tired to upload pics and do a write-up, but I should have that all posted sometime tomorrow. Unfortunately I'm still waiting on the fuel injectors, but there's plenty of work to be done without them.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

This is a bit of a longer post, as I got a good amount done and back together yesterday. 

More work done, as the fluidampr came in the mail.












Here's the pulley, with the old one next to it:












The fluidampr is quite a bit heavy compared to the stock one, but it should smooth out the idle a tiny little bit... probably not even noticeable. I got it in a kit with an ARP crank bolt that is re-useable, instead of the OEM one that you have to buy new every time. 

The ARP bolt:











And for posterity, a shot of the crank with no pulley:












You can see the larger v-shaped notch on top; that has to line up with the notch on the back side of the pulley. You have to do this blind, and it is quite difficult to "feel" for engagement. I ended up using the trusty paint marker and marking a line just below the tip of the "V" on the inside of the crank sprocket, and again on the pulley, and then positioned myself at an angle to see them lined up when I put the pulley on. If you do it this way, you have to hold it firmly in place and have the bolt ready. Once you get the bolt started you can't see the marks inside anymore. I was maybe a degree off of TDC, so I couldn't rely on the mark on the pulley being lined up with the mark on the cover, but they were close. 

The pulley installed:













You can see the notch on the pulley outlined in white; it comes this way but just barely. I used my white paint marker to make it more pronounced and easier to see. Also, on install, USP says on their website to torque the bolt to 250 ft-lbs. The workshop manual calls for 110 ft-lbs, and the fluidampr instructions call for 111 ft-lbs. I torqued to 110, and then went up in 10 ft-lb increments to 150. At this point, it started to get really difficult, and I thought I was going to tear the o-ring (the ARP bolt comes with an o-ring on it to prevent oil seeping out). I went up another 10 to 160, and called it good. In the process, I broke one of the four pins off of the OEM crank pulley holding tool. 

I realize the workshop manual torque spec is for an OEM stretch bolt, and I realize that the USP instructions are for the ARP bolt, but I don't see how the bolt could or would fail at 160.... it's not like the crank will spin in reverse rotation. If anyone has any ideas to the contrary let me know. I can try to get it tighter but it started to feel like I was just going to strip the crank threads, and that's not something I'm prepared to deal with. 

Moving on, I went ahead and installed the upper timing cover with new gaskets, and then put on a new accessory / pulley belt:






















Then the cam adjuster magnet. I got a new one of those as well... there's a OEM update. Other than looks, I'm not sure what the difference is. Old one is on the right:












With that out of the way, I put in the dipstick tube and dipstick, so the right side of the engine is all buttoned up:












Not wanting to leave the engine exposed any longer, I went ahead and put on the PCV:












That's basically how it's sitting now. I still need to get the engine mount back on, and then I can install the new turbo and run all the lines. 

After that, I'm waiting on fuel injectors before I can put the intake side back on.... but at that point it's pretty much a downhill slide with getting everything back on.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

I gotta say, this is pretty cool seeing the complexities of the engine come together.

But at the same time, it is convincing me to go electric, where the motor has one moving part.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

MisterJJ said:


> I gotta say, this is pretty cool seeing the complexities of the engine come together.
> 
> But at the same time, it is convincing me to go electric, where the motor has one moving part.


Now where's the fun in that? 

Also, for anyone interested, you may have seen that I've been getting SK tools lately. All US made, similar quality to what you get on a tool truck (like snap-on). Anyway, I am in no way affiliated with them or making money from them, but I do enjoy their tools. They are having a 30% off sitewide sale today at sktools.com.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

npace said:


> Now where's the fun in that?


I had a '69 baja bug when I was 16 (1981). Blew a hole in a piston and I replaced the "jugs and pistons" on it. It's been almost 40 years of adventures and mis-adventures with engines since then. I think I've had my fun, but now I'm done.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

MisterJJ said:


> I had a '69 baja bug when I was 16 (1981). Blew a hole in a piston and I replaced the "jugs and pistons" on it. It's been almost 40 years of adventures and mis-adventures with engines since then. I think I've had my fun, but now I'm done.


I get it. For me, working on engines is an enjoyable distraction from other parts of life, but only if it's something I want to do. I daily a 22 year old subaru, which is fine but I keep chasing new problems with it. It had an intermittent CEL for a year, and I finally fixed it with a new crank position sensor. No CEL, but started running really rough at idle, which was a clogged IACV. Removed and cleaned it, ran great, and then got a CEL for throttle position sensor. Had to get a new one and measure voltage off the output with a multimeter and move the sensor around to get it "just right". Ran around with no problems for a week, and now there's an exhaust shield rattle that, while not in itself a big issue, is a little embarassing. Also, CEL is back.... I'm pretty sure its the fuel pressure regulator. I guess the point of that story is that, as long as the subaru is running, I ignore the problem if it means I get to work on the A3.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Separate post to the above reply to keep it easier to read. Today I got more work done, but it will look like very little progress. 

Yesterday I put the PCV on to close off the engine, and today decided to finish with the vacuum pump and HPFP. So I've been sitting on these parts for a while. Not sure if anyone else has ever done this, but if they have they didn't share, because I did a lot of research and even pulled a garbage vacuum pump out of a junkyard to test and see if this would work. 

Let me explain: the gen 1 / 2 TSI had zero aftermarket HPFP support for a long time. As of now, as far as I know, the only company that makes one is nostrum, and it is quite expensive. Everything that I've read says that the gen 3 MQB HPFP won't fit or work. Well, it won't fit onto a gen 1 / 2 vacuum pump. But it does fit on a MQB vacuum pump, which is a direct fit onto a gen 1 / 2 TSI cylinder head. All three engines have the same exhaust cam / lobe profile to drive the HPFP, and use the exact same cam follower. The MQB HPFP piston is the same size as the earlier TSI ones, but the mating surface and o-ring are larger. 

If you're still following, what I did was get a new MQB vacuum pump and HPFP and bolt them on. Here's the new vacuum pump and new gasket, the gasket is the same OEM part number for MQB or earlier TSI engines:






















So, where does the PCV enter into the equation? When I test fit the junkyard part, the cylinder head was off the car and no PCV, and I didn't think anything of it. The vacuum pump, however, is clocked back further on MQB cars, so it wouldn't fit with the PCV in place. I had to get out the angle grinder and remove material from the PCV to get everything to play nice. 

No shots of the interference, but here's a pic of where I removed the material and where the two came into contact:











It's unsightly, but I figure the engine cover will be on the car anyway. It took me a while to get to this point, as I went back and forth, test fitting, removing more material, and repeating about five times until I got to where I was happy with it. I still need to figure out an M6 x 1 fastener that will fit there, as the OEM bolts with the large torx head won't fit, and neither will the cap head bolt that IE provided with the PCV... it is barely too big. We have a fastenal at the other end of town so I guess I'll head that way tomorrow. Luckily, the seating gasket is inside the hole on the mating surface, not outside, so the fastener only needs to clear enough to hold that inside edge. 

I went with the upgraded HPFP from HPA:











If anyone is curious, they use the Hitachi fuel pump for the base instead of Bosch. Both are OEM. What I found really interesting is that, despite this being a Hitachi unit, it was made in Germany:












The last thing I did was put in the new spark plugs. I went with NGK BK8EIRX. Not sure why I took a pic of a spark plug box, but I did, so here it is:











And lastly, here's a pic of the engine as it sits, with a new vacuum pump and HPFP:


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

npace said:


> I still need to figure out an M6 x 1 fastener that will fit there, as the OEM bolts with the large torx head won't fit, and neither will the cap head bolt that IE provided with the PCV... it is barely too big.


For a bolt head that is "barely too big", lightly chuck it up in a drill motor and spin the head against abrasive. E.g.: File, sandpaper, belt sander, bench grinder, etc. If the bolt is going into aluminum, I would want to chase the threads with a die if they get damaged. Alternately, you can jam nuts together on the thread and chuck up the nuts, but it may not work if the flats don't line up.

P.S. I see they are continuing with the triple-square nonsense. Like a hex socket or even a torx couldn't possibly work. 🙄


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## ArclitGold (Apr 21, 2009)

Nice. Keep it up!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

MisterJJ said:


> For a bolt head that is "barely too big", lightly chuck it up in a drill motor and spin the head against abrasive. E.g.: File, sandpaper, belt sander, bench grinder, etc. If the bolt is going into aluminum, I would want to chase the threads with a die if they get damaged. Alternately, you can jam nuts together on the thread and chuck up the nuts, but it may not work if the flats don't line up.
> 
> P.S. I see they are continuing with the triple-square nonsense. Like a hex socket or even a torx couldn't possibly work. 🙄



I'm glad you responded here... I don't know why I didn't think of the drill idea. I thought about trying to remove some material but figured I wouldn't do it even and it would get all messed up. You saved me a wasteful trip to fastenal.

And yeah, it seems like they doubled down on the triple square bolts. The originals were torx, but I guess when the MQB platform came out they were like "these bolt heads should be twice as big as they need to be, let's justify it with some triple squares". I wish everything was either hex or 12 point. 




ArclitGold said:


> Nice. Keep it up!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks!


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Double-check that..After a good VW/Audi shop installed the Schrick cams (back when I had more money than time), I was driving to the market, and the display started beeping and flashing the overheating icon, telling me to pull over immediately.  When I opened the hood, the serpentine belt was off, joining the crank damper pulley and bolt laying on the aluminum street shield. I had it taken back to the shop, where the owner/main mechanic said he sweated that bolt on, so he got a fresh bolt, a longer wrench, and really sweated it on! That was several years ago, many high rpm jaunts included: no issues since then. 



npace said:


> You can see the notch on the pulley outlined in white; it comes this way but just barely. I used my white paint marker to make it more pronounced and easier to see. Also, on install, USP says on their website to torque the bolt to 250 ft-lbs. The workshop manual calls for 110 ft-lbs, and the fluidampr instructions call for 111 ft-lbs. I torqued to 110, and then went up in 10 ft-lb increments to 150. At this point, it started to get really difficult, and I thought I was going to tear the o-ring (the ARP bolt comes with an o-ring on it to prevent oil seeping out). I went up another 10 to 160, and called it good. In the process, I broke one of the four pins off of the OEM crank pulley holding tool.
> 
> I realize the workshop manual torque spec is for an OEM stretch bolt, and I realize that the USP instructions are for the ARP bolt, but I don't see how the bolt could or would fail at 160.... it's not like the crank will spin in reverse rotation. If anyone has any ideas to the contrary let me know. I can try to get it tighter but it started to feel like I was just going to strip the crank threads, and that's not something I'm prepared to deal with.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

kgw said:


> Double-check that..After a good VW/Audi shop installed the Schrick cams (back when I had more money than time), I was driving to the market, and the display started beeping and flashing the overheating icon, telling me to pull over immediately.  When I opened the hood, the serpentine belt was off, joining the crank damper pulley and bolt laying on the aluminum street shield. I had it taken back to the shop, where the owner/main mechanic said he sweated that bolt on, so he got a fresh bolt, a longer wrench, and really sweated it on! That was several years ago, many high rpm jaunts included: no issues since then.


Thanks for the reply. What I don't get is that the Audi workshop manual and the fluidampr instructions call for 110 and 111, respectively, which is pretty tight. (the workshop manual actually calls for 150nm, which is 111 ft-lbs when rounded up). 250 seems insanely tight - it's actually the max that my torque wrench will go. I got to 160 and was trying to get to 180, and couldn't do it. I didn't put a cheater pipe on the torque wrench, however, so maybe I'll give it another go; but I don't see how 250 even makes sense; the ARP threads won't stretch, so the likelihood of damage to the crank threads is actually higher. I might call ARP and just ask them about it.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Yes, it's really odd there are "choices" for the torque! I've read that some have seen the bolt backing out, before it comes off, so keep your eyes on it. Mine actually came off the first week out of the shop.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

kgw said:


> Yes, it's really odd there are "choices" for the torque! I've read that some have seen the bolt backing out, before it comes off, so keep your eyes on it. Mine actually came off the first week out of the shop.


Yep. Ruined my crankshaft when the bolt loosened on my Fluidamper...


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

JRutter said:


> Yep. Ruined my crankshaft when the bolt loosened on my Fluidamper...


Did you have the ARP bolt or the OEM one? Just curious. I'm calling ARP tomorrow.


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## ArclitGold (Apr 21, 2009)

Let us know what they say; I’m considering getting one also


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## Tjtalan (Jan 19, 2013)

I am supper impressed, this is one of the best builds I’ve seen. Keep it up, great work!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

ArclitGold said:


> Let us know what they say; I’m considering getting one also
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I called ARP. The bolt USP sells in the kit is not on their inventory, but it's basically a regular M16 bolt sized for the application. They confirmed 250 ft-lbs.... actually depending on the pressure requirements you can go all the way to 270. I went ahead and tried to add more torque. I think letting it "settle" for a day or two helped. I got it to 180, then 200 without issue. 

Then I jumped up to 220, and it was more difficult but I got there. My plan was to go to 240 and then the last 10 at 250. At 240, this happened:










One of the pins already snapped when trying to get to 180 previously. With two snapped, I cannot hold the pulley in place at all. I got this counterhold tool in a timing tool kit from ECS; it has the Schwaben name on it. I'm fairly certain that this is the same manufacturer that does other aftermarket specialty tools for CTA and Harbor freight. Luckily, I was able to find the OEM one on sale for $50, so I went ahead and ordered it; it's only $5 more than another one of these, and hopefully the quality is high enough that no pins snap. Honestly I'm surprised that one didn't snap earlier with only three pins since the load was less evenly distributed at that point. 



Tjtalan said:


> I am supper impressed, this is one of the best builds I’ve seen. Keep it up, great work!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks very much, I really appreciate it. Yours is excellent as well, and I look forward to future updates. I took your "learn to do it yourself" advice and I'm planning on actually tuning this on my own.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Too bad Belzer is out of business... I see Hazet has this:
HAZET-WERK - Hermann Zerver GmbH & Co. KG

Where did you fine the OEM?


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

npace said:


> Did you have the ARP bolt or the OEM one? Just curious. I'm calling ARP tomorrow.


OEM. Should have gone with ARP. I had a shop do it, and I think they just impact gunned the bolt on. They didn't outright admit it, but after they tried to dowel the damper pulley to the nose of the crank (because the keyway was fubar) they had to wait on a "special installation tool" which I'm guessing was the counterhold.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

kgw said:


> Too bad Belzer is out of business... I see Hazet has this:
> HAZET-WERK - Hermann Zerver GmbH & Co. KG
> 
> Where did you fine the OEM?


I love Hazet tools... their torque wrenches are the best I've ever used.... and my big torque wrench is a snap-on. That tool you linked to, however only has two dowel pins, and I can't hold enough pressure against the damper with the two left on my counter-hold tool, so I'm not sure it would work. I got the OEM tool, ironically enough, at ECS. It didn't come up on the ECS site immediately; I had to search google for the OEM part number out of the manual and then it came up on ECS. 




JRutter said:


> OEM. Should have gone with ARP. I had a shop do it, and I think they just impact gunned the bolt on. They didn't outright admit it, but after they tried to dowel the damper pulley to the nose of the crank (because the keyway was fubar) they had to wait on a "special installation tool" which I'm guessing was the counterhold.


I'm not sure that there's anything wrong with the OEM bolt; I only went ARP because the cost difference was minimal when bought as a package from USP. Sucks about the shop, though... I could definitely see someone doing that, especially after what BFI did to my transmission mount and axle mount bolts. I will say that getting the bolt to torque has been a struggle, and a shop (and mechanic) that makes money off of doing it as fast as possible is probably going to get away with using an impact gun 9 times out of 10, which is why things like this happen. It's unfortunate, really. Oddly enough, Humble Mechanic and Shop DAP have a podcast where they were talking about sh***y mechanics and how this kind of thing is common.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Fuel Injectors. I got a new aftermarket set, but after learning more about tuning, I am going to reinstall the stock ones initially, so that I can do one thing at a time when I flash the car since I'm doing it myself. I don't want to have to worry about injector scaling, deadtime, and adjusting from multiple data logs while I'm also trying to code out the intake manifold runner flaps, adjust for increased boost pressure, and adjust for the larger HPFP and in tank pumps. So, with that in mind, today I installed new seals on my fuel injectors. 

Here's how the injectors looked out of the car - covered in carbon:












To clean them, I soaked them in the safest solvent for fuel injectors - fuel. I did this by simply cleaning out a bucket, adding gas from the tank that I use for my lawnmower, and setting the injector tips in, like so:













After removing and cleaning, the injectors looked a lot better. Fuel injector seal kit, in case anyone needs the part number:













If you plan on doing this yourself, you'll also need a toolkit, primarily to install the teflon seals at the injector tips. This being the first time doing this, I f*d up the first one, so I need to order another kit. 













My recommendation is to not follow the instructions exactly, but instead push the teflon seals onto the little transfer cone by hand, and then continue to push by hand into place on the injector. You can then use the knurled nut, starting with the largest one, smooth side first, to push onto the injector tip and compress the seal. Then use the middle sized one. The next step is supposed to be going to the smallest one, but I found that difficult, and I didn't want to force it and mess up another seal. I found that the injector stopper /seat (the black and silver piece) is just a little bigger than the smallest knurled nut, and compresses the seal that much more if you push it on next. Then you can use the smallest one and finish. The rest of the seals are easy. 

All finished, a nice, clean injector ready to install. I have three of these and will finish when I get another seal kit.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Small update..... 

OEM counter-hold tool came in yesterday. 












It is a bit thicker than the schwaben one, and I was able to use it successfully to get to 250 ft-lbs on the crank bolt. My plan is to check it periodically once I get the car running to make sure it's in there good. 

With that done, I was able to get the motor mount on. 












That's pretty much it for today, but the mount on means I can put the turbo on the car. Slowly but surely, this thing is going back together and progress is being made. If I work fast enough, I can start the car before Christmas.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

moving on! What does the long arm brace itself against? I've heard some remove the oil pan, and position a 2x4 against the crank


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

kgw said:


> moving on! What does the long arm brace itself against? I've heard some remove the oil pan, and position a 2x4 against the crank


Nothing? I pressed against it while pulling on the torque wrench, but I suppose you could use that method. Or are you talking about how I held up the engine with the mount out? If that's the case, I used a 2x4 under the oil pan and a transmission jack.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Strong! Like ox!  
"Nothing? I pressed against it while pulling on the torque wrench"


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

kgw said:


> Strong! Like ox!


The handles are quite long, and I found using opposing force helped put enough pressure on it. 

Not a lot of pics, but I think a pretty big update.... turbo is on the car. Actually, the one pic I do have is not the best, the lighting in my garage isn't great, but the turbo and manifold are visible. 











I still need to plumb the coolant and oil lines, put on the downpipe, and then I can start on all the intake parts and vacuum side of things. Also, I never realized how close this is to the A/C lines... so I think I'm going to get some heat shield sleeve to put on before I button everything up.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

That looks way closer to the A/C lines than what I remember on my car. I wonder if having the A/C lines run right next to the exhaust has a lot to do with why the A/C sucks so bad.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

I've actually never had a problem with the A/C... I think it works pretty good. There's a few things going on here: first, the aftermarket turbo and manifold are bigger than stock and therefore sit closer to the firewall. Second, where it sits closest is next to the cold side of the turbo. Also, I think the photo is misleading... the lines are close, but they look a lot closer in the pic than they actually are... I had to lean over the engine bay pretty far to get that pic and so the angle is off. But they are way closer than I would prefer, and I've heard a lot of complaints about the A/C in these cars not being very good.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

More slow progress. First I put some dielectric grease on a set of new R8 coils and installed them on my new plugs. 





















Then I did the more difficult work of plumbing the turbo. I don't have a ton of pics of it, because the clearances are nil and it took some time and swearing to get things on. You can see the oil supply line laying across the exhaust manifold in the above pic. The hardest part was getting the coolant return onto the back of the engine block; it's a banjo fitting and getting the bolt through the line and both crush washers and holding it all together while trying to squeeze it between the block and the turbo was tedious. 

I got pretty much new gaskets and lines for everything; the only line I re-used was the oil supply line since that was already a reuseable -AN fitting / line combo. The old APR coolant supply line could have been re-used, but it was hard and brittle so I thought it best to replace it. 

New return line gaskets:










The oil lines were a bit easier, and I also got some turbo priming oil. This took a while to get into the turbo, not because it's difficult, but you need the return line installed first so if it drains it goes somewhere, and the restrictor inlet lets oil in very slowly without the pressure the engine provides when running. 






















New fuel injector seal kit arrived yesterday, so I plan to install the injectors today. I'm at a standstill on installing the intake manifold because I need new vacuum line to get everything to fit on the underside. The main thing is parts are actually going on the car, which is the right direction.


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## ArclitGold (Apr 21, 2009)

That’s right! Progress is progress!


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

On my 3.2l, again after the Shrick cam install, the oil cooler hoses were actually in contact with the condenser...I noticed the lack of cooling right way, and it was corrected right away. As you say, npace, as long as there is a good separation between the lines (good air space) all should be well.



MisterJJ said:


> That looks way closer to the A/C lines than what I remember on my car. I wonder if having the A/C lines run right next to the exhaust has a lot to do with why the A/C sucks so bad.





MisterJJ said:


> That looks way closer to the A/C lines than what I remember on my car. I wonder if having the A/C lines run right next to the exhaust has a lot to do with why the A/C sucks so bad.





npace said:


> I've actually never had a problem with the A/C... I think it works pretty good. There's a few things going on here: first, the aftermarket turbo and manifold are bigger than stock and therefore sit closer to the firewall. Second, where it sits closest is next to the cold side of the turbo. Also, I think the photo is misleading... the lines are close, but they look a lot closer in the pic than they actually are... I had to lean over the engine bay pretty far to get that pic and so the angle is off. But they are way closer than I would prefer, and I've heard a lot of complaints about the A/C in these cars not being very good.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Your work is looking very good, npace  I predict a happy 2021 is in your future...


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

It's been a weird month... I've had to travel for work, got sick with the flu, and had a wisdom tooth pulled. Added to other life responsibilities and I've either been unmotivated or unable to work on the car. 

Today, I got back in the garage and started making progress again. First I got the turbo all plumbed up with the oil and coolant lines. The oil return was already on the turbo from back when I put in that turbo additive, and it leaked where the line mates with the engine block. So I removed it, put on a new gasket, and put a small amount of grey gasket maker on each side of the new gasket. 

I only have this pic of the coolant feed line because I'm working off jack stands and didn't really have space under the car to get pics of everything:












With the turbo all plumbed up, I went ahead and cleaned and installed the exhaust heat shield. It's a small step, but a step in the right direction:












The other thing that's taking a while is I keep finding little repairs I need to make. The DV connector was a perfect example, here's what the wire looked like where it met up with the connector:












The insulation should go all the way to the bottom crimp inside the blue weather seal, but as you can see, it was a CEL waiting to happen. Hard to see in the pic, but the wires were turning green. So I cut this and the other one like it, and replaced it with a new one. Luckily I already had an engine harness on hand and didn't need that section, So I got to replace it with the same color OEM wires.













I also got a new oil pressure gauge for Christmas, so I used a T-fitting adapter and ran it off the OEM sensor at the oil filter housing. 

Here's the sensor and fitting:













And installed on the oil filter housing:














I also finally finished the bolt that I had to make for the front right axle housing.... way back in this thread I showed how I threaded a longer M8 bolt to reach where my OEM one wouldn't bolt into the diff. Well, that bolt was sitting all this time and today I finally cut to length and put it in. Here's a pic of the cutting I did:











I also had to smooth over the edges after the cut and then run the die back over it, but it threaded in easy so my method was crude but effective. 

Lastly, and probably the biggest update, was getting the intake manifold on the car. It did not want to go on, and I had to be really careful not to tear the injector O-rings and not to totally force it on. I _almost _got out a rubber dead blow hammer, but thought better of it and finally got the intake on. I found the best method was to get it started and positioned and then, starting with the top center bolt, walk it on by bolting it up slowly. 












Hey, it's starting to look like an engine again! I still need to get the intake and intercooler piping on the car, get all the wiring in place, and then install all the coolant bits. Easier said than done, but glad to be moving forward again.


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## ArclitGold (Apr 21, 2009)

Wow


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

That intake looks like "tha bomb"... or a bomb.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Well, I made a dumb mistake that's going to cost me some time, but luckily not really any money. I put the intake manifold on without connecting the fuel injectors to the harness.... now there's no way to reach them. 🤦‍♂️ Thankfully I got the new seals from FCP Euro, so I'm using the lifetime warranty to get a replacement set. 

I feel dumb, but whatever. There's plenty to do before the new seals come in, and I may not even need them. If I get lucky, the manifold will come off without any of the injectors.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Here's to Luck! That's all we have sometimes...Or not.  Ah well. 

It's gonna be good, npace, of that I am sure! Your basic inclination to detail will serve you well.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

kgw said:


> Here's to Luck! That's all we have sometimes...Or not.  Ah well.
> 
> It's gonna be good, npace, of that I am sure! Your basic inclination to detail will serve you well.


Thanks. I don't look at it so much as an issue of luck. I wasn't going to put up my last post, but I figured hey, everyone makes mistakes. So many build threads and youtube videos make it look like everything happens easy, or that these people do everything perfectly the first time, which is not the case. I made a mistake that set me back a week, but it was an honest (if not simple) mistake. I got so caught up in putting on my cool new intake manifold that I didn't pay close enough attention to what I was doing.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

I hear 'ya...I replaced the ignition coil connectors yesterday: I broke the release mechanism on 4-5 connectors while learning about VAG connectors over the initial time with the A3 🥴


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

We're getting worried, npace! How's things?


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

kgw said:


> We're getting worried, npace! How's things?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Yeah, I need to do some work and post an update. Getting ready to move again, and had a bunch of stuff to take care of. I replaced the flooring in my house and got occupied with a few other handyman type projects. I should have an update later this week.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Life intrudes whenever it likes  Good thing we are patient!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Didn't get a ton accomplished today, but progress is progress. I successfully removed and re-installed the intake manifold with the fuel injectors plugged in this time. 🤦‍♂️ 

I also connected the hard line from the HPFP to the fuel rail.... with the IE intake manifold you have to bend the hard line a little.... and I mean only a little bit. It would be easy to get carried away, but a little bit goes far with this, so if anyone is reading this and will go the same route, my recommendation is to make small, incremental adjustments here. 

Ive seen other people's projects and when they do this they do it by hand. It's doable, but I wanted a better result, so I used this small, hand-held tubing bender:













I had to put the hard line on, adjust, and remove multiple times to get everything to line up right. It's a PITA, but don't force it on there; make sure the ball is seated in the socket on the brass adapter before you tighten anything. Otherwise I can almost guarantee a fuel leak. Here's the final result:













I also ran and installed the soft line from the low pressure side to the HPFP, and un-wrapped and re-ran some wiring. The intake air temp sensor, throttle body control, and evap purge valve wiring all branch out fairly close to each-other, but I placed the purge valve under the intake manifold instead of on top like OEM. I didn't have to cut or extend anything, just spread them out a little more. After, I replaced the loom and tape with heat shrink. It all came out good, but don't have a pic of it right now. 

So that's it for now. Next up is finishing / tidying up all the chassis to engine bay wiring. Once that's done, I'll install the lower charge pipe onto the throttle body side, and then put the front bumper and radiator in place. After that, I can install the fill / overflow tank and run those lines; I think I've settled on placement where it will look good and simplify everything so I'm happy with it. Re-installing the turbo intake and outlet pipes should be the last thing, then I can fill the engine with oil, turn the engine over by hand a few times, and maybe actually start the car. Then it's a matter of tuning it for the intake adjustments, removing the fueling components to install new / upgraded ones, and tuning for fuel, re-installing the front axle, and taking it for a spin. Easier said than done, but that's the current plan.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

xlnt work, npace! Where did you come by the tubing bender?


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## ArclitGold (Apr 21, 2009)

kgw said:


> xlnt work, npace! Where did you come by the tubing bender?


Nice progress!!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Thanks. 

I looked at it, and can't find any kind of brand marking on it. I honestly don't remember where it came from. I think I got it from summit racing, and if that's the case, it's probably made by all-star performance. If not, I got it from Eastwood. Either way, it's really only good for small projects. A vise mounted one would be better if you're doing a lot of tubing with complex bends so you don't have to provide counter-force to hold the tube in place. 

For thinner wall stuff, you can actually use a coil spring with a slightly larger ID than the tubing OD. Put it around the tube and bend by hand - the tube won't collapse and you can get any radius you need.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Got a ton done over the last two days. The wiring is pretty much complete; but I'm thinking I might re-route where I have the ECU harness because I'm not liking how it sits right now. The rest of the chassis wiring is in the frame rail. No pics of that because it's just boring wires. 

I also got the turbo hoses on and the N75 / boost control plumbed. 

I used these knipex pliers and ear ring clamps for the boost control, I find that the ear ring clamps do a better job and are more even clamping than worm gear style. 













In use:













And the end result:













I also plumbed up most of the vacuum lines. Here's the line from the intake manifold to the intake (post-MAF):
























Lastly, with the wiring done, I was able to put the bumper / rad core support back on the car. 














Just lining it up by eye was okay, but here you can see the witness marks from the locking washers, and how far off I was:












After some moving around and a lot of back and forth between sides, I got them lined up. Probably not 100% perfect, but pretty close. I imagine I'll need to re-do these when I put the front grille / bumper cover on to get a better alignment. Here's one of them after multiple adjustments; no marks (except for some very light ones that I added when I first re-installed it):














Getting the rad core support on was a pretty big deal. I already put the hood latch back on. I need to mock up the coolant overflow and run those lines before I put the radiator in. Also, I've been cleaning / de-greasing everything under and behind parts as well as the parts themselves before I put them back on. This should make it easier to get everything the way I want once the parts are back on. 

That's everything for now. I expect to have new updates every few days.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

You've convinced me on the clamps/K-pliers: I was looking at them about 6 months back. You are closing in on it, npace. When I recently bolted the core suppot back on, I closed the hood and could see the distance from the headlight to the hood was not the same left-right. So, I put some supports under both sides, and loosened the bolts, and checked the hood rubber stoppers for their positions up or down. Then I adjusted the core support until the gaps were even right to left with the hood latched... this got the fenders/hood in good alignment too. The headlights outside corner gaskets are touching the fenders.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

kgw said:


> You've convinced me on the clamps/K-pliers: I was looking at them about 6 months back. You are closing in on it, npace. When I recently bolted the core suppot back on, I closed the hood and could see the distance from the headlight to the hood was not the same left-right. So, I put some supports under both sides, and loosened the bolts, and checked the hood rubber stoppers for their positions up or down. Then I adjusted the core support until the gaps were even right to left with the hood latched... this got the fenders/hood in good alignment too. The headlights outside corner gaskets are touching the fenders.


Thanks for the tips on aligning the core support. I feel like this will still take a while.... tuning it is going to be a learning experience for me since it will be the first time. Doing the wiring was a big deal; I've done wiring projects before but only to fix stuff, never to extend and re-route things.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Not an update. I have a cut up Mk6 Golf R chassis harness that I'm going to throw out. Like I said it's all cut up - so I'm not tossing a bunch of good wiring. That said, if anyone wants or needs some spare Audi / VW connectors or a fuse panel or anything, let me know. I'll let it go for the cost of shipping.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Some progress, although I'm waiting on parts to finish the cooling system and the wiring. 

The vacuum system is finished and plumbed; I removed the hard line from the coolant system by cutting off the bracket, so I just have the single hard line that runs under the intake manifold for the vacuum system:













The vacuum line from the pump to the intake manifold runner flaps isn't needed anymore, so I capped that off. I also started on the MAF housing. The powdercoat that APR put on it is either bad, or the housing wasn't prepped very well, because it shouldn't flake off like this:













I stripped it and already have it painted, but need to take a pic. 

For the coolant system, I removed the hose that goes to the bottom of the coolant ball / expansion tank. It normally has a T section that runs between the aux water pump, the lower heater hose, and the coolant bubble. The T is gone, and I used a section from all the extra hose I removed from the DSG setup, so now it's like this:













Since I'm deleting the expansion tank, I'm converting to a more traditional overflow style system where the coolant will expand into an overflow tank when hot and then suck it back into the system as it cools down. This is the expansion tank I got:












It came with this giant p-clamp for mounting:














I wasn't happy with how it fit around the tank and how thin it was, so I used some 3/4" heat shrink around it:














I was going to have it mounted in place, but the stud I want to use hanging off the frame rail is an odd thread size - M5 x 1.5, so I don't have an extra nut and I can't seem to find one anywhere. I can drill and mount a nutsert, but I would rather not since there's something in place I can use. 

Lastly, I started unwrapping the engine wiring harness. I was going to mount this around the wheel well and then into the cabin from the side, but decided I don't like how that sits and looks. I ordered all the stuff to setup a bulkhead connector instead, which will solve the problem of where to run the wiring while also making servicability easier for if / when I want to remove the engine. So here's the wiring:












So that's it for now. Seems like not a lot of progress, but once I get the filler neck, I can finish the cooling system, and I will be completely done with the wiring once I get the bulkhead connector in. Slowly but surely I'm getting everything knocked out.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

I'm reminded of the exhibits of the plastized cadavers...That's actually really beautiful!! Can you leave it like that?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Yeah..... no. I think I'm actually going to remove the harness completely so I can get it how I want. Right now the flapper motor sensor and actuator plugs are still on the harness. Right now the connectors are just hanging there, and I'd like to get rid of them. Also, if I remove those wires from the harness completely instead of just cutting them out, I'll gain space on the bulkhead connector. The bulkhead connector I ordered has 47 pins. By removing those wiring sections from the harness, I can include the brake master sensor, the front O2 sensor, and the MAF sensor harness sections on the bulkhead connector, which would simplify my wiring even though it's only 13 extra wires. I also want to clean it up and heat shrink everything, instead of having random sections with OEM tape and convoluted loom.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Even better! 👍


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Removed the engine harness.













Getting it stripped took some time; some of the plugs were un-cooperative and I didn't want to break anything. I removed the intake manifold wiring and plug from the harness. I also added in my oil pressure gauge wiring, so I can run it with the harness and have a completely clean look. The plug you see in the bottom center of the above pic connects to the chassis harness. With everything out, I also re-routed that so the wires will go to the bulkhead connector and it will connect inside of the cabin, allowing me to clean up a lot of wiring from the bay. The only plastic / convoluted loom that will be left is the section that covers the coilpack wiring; I think that looks good and does a good job of keeping everything in place. 

Below is a pic of the harness completely stripped. I needed to do this to re-route some things for clean up and to get everything ready for Heat shrink. Where you see the black sections is where I already put on heat shrink. The sections with tape are to keep the harness together. 













I'm going to pull and re-do the harness in the frame rail one last time to remove the section that connects to this harness for routing through the bulkhead connector. Other than that, I'm still waiting on parts for the coolant system and the last few things to finish up the wiring.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Great work, npace...I was actually considering buying a new engine harness a few weeks back  A mere $500!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

You can get them for less on ebay, but probably have to play the waiting game. I got one for $95 when I started this, in case I needed to extend or add any wires. 

I made a spreadsheet with all the pinouts / connections to make servicing easier in the future. This is just what was viewable to make a photo; I have the entire engine harness and chassis harness (engine bay side only) on it. This will hopefully help if I ever take things apart and forget or lose labeling.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

The spreadsheet is like a map to prevent getting lost: a necessary item, for sure. I'll peruse ebay and see what I find.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

kgw said:


> The spreadsheet is like a map to prevent getting lost: a necessary item, for sure. I'll peruse ebay and see what I find.


It helps. I got half of my bulkhead connector in the mail, the receptacle end. The plug end is on back order, somehow. 🤦‍♂️ Whenever that comes in, it will probably take me forever to actually pin everything. I plan to do one wire at a time, so cut, strip each side, crimp each side, then pin each side in the same number on the appropriate receptacle / plug of the bulkhead connector. 

In updates, I finished everything that I can do with the harness before I do the bulkhead connector. For some reason, the MAP sensor harness connects to the engine harness in the most roundabout manner possible. From the factory, it connects to the chassis harness plug, which then connects to the engine harness and back to the ECU. I went ahead and made those connections directly so they will be integrated into the harness. 

I'm also eliminating that big plug completely; there's no reason for me to run those wires into the engine bay just to run them back out. The bulkhead connector will basically take the place of that plug as well. I'm not sure if that makes sense or not, but it will help clean up the bay a bit. Basically all my wiring will be tucked. I will eventually shave the bay and firewall, but not until after I get the car running and can drive it for a while, like this whole upcoming summer. 

I've routed and re-routed the wiring like three times; I honestly think figuring that all out is the hardest part of doing a shaved and tucked bay. Once it's all complete and I get a welding setup, I should be able to just remove the engine, take off the things I don't like on the firewall, weld the holes, sand, and paint. Easy, right?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Got the cooling system plumbed up today. 

I started with the recovery tank... I had to drill and mount a nutsert in the framerail. I'm not super into nutserts, but this was the only decent option. Here's the result:














The cap is pretty close to the top of the framerail, but I can tilt / rotate the reservoir back if I need to fill it in the future. 

For the fill point, I used a Moroso remote thermostat fill neck that I got from summit. A lot of people talk about using the dirty fingernail on paper trick for making a template. I say nuts to that.... in this case I used masking tape:














That let me carefully remove it and stick it to where I wanted, making drilling mounting holes that much easier. 
In my case, I chose to mount it on the rad core support, above the radiator, easily making it the highest point in the system. 















All mounted up:













That done, I measured and ran the AN hose and got that plumbed in. 

Done:


















No pic, but I also ran silicone hose from the pressure valve to the overflow tank. Probably seems like not that much work, but basically I'm at the point where I need the bulkhead plug before I can do anything else. After that happens, I can pretty much reassemble and fill with fluids.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Looks quite clean from here...


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## ArclitGold (Apr 21, 2009)

Sweet!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

kgw said:


> Looks quite clean from here...





ArclitGold said:


> Sweet!
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks. I'm still waiting on the plug, but I realized there were some small things lacking that I could do. First, I tackled the front axle. The whole reason all of this started (over year ago, SMH) was because an axle bolt backed out and the double washer spun around and punctured the boost hose. 

Enter stage 8 hardware. These bolts have a locking collar that you put over the bolt head after it's threaded in, and then you put on a snap ring to hold the locking collar in place. 















I also got new OEM washers to go behind the bolts:

















Kind of hard to see, but this is what it looks like installed:
















Lastly, I decided to update my PCV system a little. Before, I had the rear section of the breather blocked off. Now I'm going to run it out to the exhaust, so I put this together:

















Now I can connect an AN fitting. I plan to run aluminum hardline to an extra O2 bung that is currently blocked off. 

And that's basically it. There's a few more small things to do; I can mock up the harness and make sure the cut location is good, and I need to make the hole in the firewall plate bigger. Other than that, there are a few small things I want to clean up like the lugs on the battery switch and the wiring in the cabin. Then I continue to play the waiting game based on COVID supply chain issues.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Go deeper...best way to haul it in! Kudos to you


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Lots going on, still slower than I would like. First, I realized that my upper rad hose connection to the water pump wasn't very good, and would probably leak. I found the culprit, which I think was actually the new aluminum water pump. 

Here you can see in the pic the water pump from graf I bought. The flanges don't have the tabs for the OEM connectors like the OEM plastic one:















So I bought one that geba makes. You can get it at USP motorsports, but other places probably sell it. Theirs have the tabs:














The graf one still has the notch around the flange for the clip that locks in place, but the hose was loose on the open side. On this one, I had no such issue. There's some slight play there, but it feels much more secure and I can tell that the o-ring is still fully engaged. I'm not saying that this would be a problem for everyone; plenty of people have the graf one and don't have problems, but if I could do it again I would just get the geba one and be done with it. 

Also, re-installing the water pump was much more difficult. Last time, I installed the belt on the bottom (balance shaft) side, then installed the pump, and just pulled the belt up over onto the pump. This time, that was impossible for some reason. I ended up having to get the pump in place on the dowels with no bolts, and then loosening the lower balance shaft sprocket to get enough play to pull the belt over, and then tightening everything. I tried to join the union with the oil cooler after the belt, and no dice. 

As for the wiring, the engine harness is almost done:














You can see I finished one side. Crimping all of those solid connectors was a little difficult, but the real issue was the smaller wires. Size 16 ga and larger are no problem, they just push in. The smaller ones (18 and 20 ga) aren't stiff enough to get all the way into the connector and lock in. I found that I could use the de-pinning tool to get enough stiffness to push them in. The problem, however, is that the de-pinning tool is soft plastic, and it only lasted me through about 3 connections on the small gauge wires. 

It ended up like this:











Lisle makes a metal one that I ordered and is on the way. Barring that, there's still some stuff to work on. I've got to get the bulkhead panel on the car, finish the wiring that goes to it, and move forward on the cooling stuff and front end. It's getting very close, but still feels like there's a million things to do before I can drive it.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Today I got some more done.... extending a wiring harness and tucking everything is not hard, but it takes forever to get right. I've moved, re-routed, and changed some aspect of the chassis harness at least 6 times, but I think I'm just about there. 

Below is a pic of the interior, with _almost _all of the wires tucked. Don't mind the stuff under the carpet - that runs to the fuse box, and the other wires / connectors hanging down go to the BCM and dash switches.














The five extended wires on the top / right are going to the bulkhead connector. 

The bright yellow wire in the center is for the new oil pressure gauge, and is plugged into the dimmer switch connector. Here's a better look at it:













It looks huge in the pic; it's actually only 18 gauge but the adjacent wires are 20 and 22. The power for the gauge is coming directly off of the back of the interior fuse panel, pic below.














It's the black and white one that isn't going to anything. I put a 5 amp fuse in the front, but might change it. Autometer recommends a 3 amp for some reason, but literally nothing else in this car or any car I've ever run uses anything smaller than 5, and I don't have any 3 amp fuses hanging out. Wierd. I'll monitor how hot the gauge gets and see.

There's two ground posts that sit under the kick panel that I'll use to ground it. With the sensor wires running through the engine harness, I think it's a pretty clean install that will be as OEM as possible - no random extra wires running through the bay, no piggyback fuses, and a direct connection to the interior dimmer switch. 

I also did some boring stuff; blocked the gaping hole in the rain tray, re-set the ECU in it's place, and got all but the five wires in the first pic routed to their final places. I also got the bulkhead connector in place:














It's hard to see, but I had to trim a little off of the black upper rain tray piece. I also went ahead and shaved off the studs on that piece, which again, isn't readily visible. I re-painted it black, but on looking at it, I'm thinking I might go back and match the rest of the engine bay / body later down the road - much later, because I can't wait to drive this thing. 

I still have to make a spacer for the remote filler neck and finish that, install the rad fans, and put everything back together. tons of little stuff to take care of before I can start the car, but it's getting closer.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Looks like you are, that's for sure. Persistence furthers ...


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Only one pic. Engine harness is finished. Not a lot to see, but this was a lot of work - tracing every wire, crimping the deutsch terminals, and pinning out the connectors on both sides. 
















This goes on the car today. No pic, but I also got the remote coolant filler in place, the radiator fan on, and all the wiring done on the chassis side. This is getting very close to initial start up.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

And, what a pic it is...Xlnt crafting, npace!


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## Tjtalan (Jan 19, 2013)

Wow, I’ve been gone too long. This build just gets better!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Tjtalan said:


> Wow, I’ve been gone too long. This build just gets better!


Thank you. I've neglected this for the better part of a month due to getting moved again and needing to prep my house for sale and start looking for a new one. With that going on in the background, I also have an excuse to go full bore on the car again.... it has to move out of the garage if we're selling the house. 

Baby steps. All of the wiring in the car is done, fingers crossed it's good to go and I haven't messed anything up. When I first did the transmission swap, I put the old, non-MFSW back on the car because paddles on a manual transmission car are silly. A friend of mine with a 3D printer made some plugs for me, so I removed the paddle section of the harness on the MFSW and replaced with those. I also got the oil pressure gauge installed. Here's the result:














I'm not a huge fan of the steering wheel pod, and I also don't like blocking the A/C vents, so I need to figure something out. I'm quite pleased with the stack gauge, however, and other than the white needle, I think it compliments the other gauges nicely. 

I plan to get the rest of the interior back in tonight, as well as getting the coolant system buttoned up and putting in fresh oil and a filter. So close to startup.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

I think the pod will grow on you  Having the oil pressure right in your face is good!
The AutoPolar is very good since it uses the MFD, but I have to pick the readings out; not as visible as the gauge with its needle.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

kgw said:


> I think the pod will grow on you  Having the oil pressure right in your face is good!
> The AutoPolar is very good since it uses the MFD, but I have to pick the readings out; not as visible as the gauge with its needle.


I'm keeping the gauge, but I think I want to figure a way to mount it on top of the dash. I have autopolar as well, but I need to get the car running with a basic tune before I install it into the gateway. 

I got a bunch done last night, but nothing pic-worthy. Interior is back in the car and all buttoned-up. The checklist is getting smaller. I need to finish the rear breather setup on the PCV, check the torque on all the major bolts, and put everything back on the car (rain tray cover, bumper, headlights). Then I can put the battery in the car, build oil pressure, and start it up, fingers crossed I did everything right. 🤞


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

The pace is quickening


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

Exciting !! 


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Well, it is taking an incredibly long time to get the last few things done. I finished installing all of the cooling system components and put in coolant. I used a fluid transfer pump to get coolant into the majority of the system, and then decided that I would use the gravity fill method with the car running for the rest of it. 

Here's how I hooked it up:












Hard to see, but at the top I had to replace the original brass fitting with a right angle npt / nipple fitting. I was careful to keep the pressure below 20 PSI so as not to overload the system. Also, I discovered a leak at the back of the turbo; I now need to remove the front passenger axle to get to it. 🤦‍♂️ 

I also drained and put in fresh oil and a new OEM filter. This is the oil I used:















The main reason I went with this is to build oil pressure quickly. I used assembly lube when I did the cylinder head and I filled the turbo with the turbocharger oil / additive, but I'm worried about something not having lubrication right away. I'll probably only run this for about 100 miles or so and then change it... it's basically insurance against immediate oil starvation. 

When I did the oil change I also took a sample to send to blackstone. I think I'll probably end up doing this for the next 5 oil changes so I can monitor for premature wear. 

And this is pretty much what the engine bay is going to look like for now:













I just have to install the intake after I fix the coolant leak; I might have to go after the banjo bolt from the top, so I don't want to put the intake back on prematurely. 

I also finished the PCV system and routing. No pics but I'll get one next time. Previously I had the rear PCV outlet blocked off, but now I have it running out through a check valve and into the exhaust. It should significantly reduce the amount of gas that was getting into the bay from the catch can. 

And that's pretty much it. Once the leak is fixed, I can put everything back together and try to fire it up. I think the only other thing I need to do first is install the battery (it's sitting on a bench on the battery tender) and add some stabilizer to the fuel tank.


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## F0urRingTing (Apr 29, 2020)

Great work, as always!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

This update is exciting.... if you like random pictures of bolts. So remember how I said there's a coolant leak? Here's the culprit:














It's the banjo bolt coming off the coolant inlet on the turbo. I tried tightening it first, but to no avail. I was afraid of breaking the bolt off in my new turbo, and didn't want to push it, so I only used a 5/8 ratchet. When that didn't work, I removed it, and inspected it. Here's a decent close up, with one of the crush washers:















Nothing looks off, the threads are clean and straight. There is a bit more of a gap on the copper crush washer than I would normally like, but it shouldn't be a problem. I looked into it, however, and a lot of times people have issues with copper crush washers. Sure enough, the OEM ones are aluminum. Aluminum is softer than copper, so it requires less torque to crush to a seal. Odd that the other side is fine, but whatever. 

I ordered new OEM washers and a new OEM bolt to be safe. Here's what the new stuff looks like:















The OEM bolt has an allen cap instead of being a normal hex bolt. Side by side with the one that I got from ATP Turbo for comparison:















They're about the same length along the threaded section and the "banjo" section. The OEM bolt is tapered more at the threaded end, and is taller at the cap. The holes in the OEM bolt aren't really larger, but they look that way because they're chamfered. Also, I didn't get a good pic of it, but the OEM aluminum crush washers were a bit thicker than the copper ones. I tightened the bolt back onto the turbo and torqued it to 35 nm (a little over 25 lb-ft) as required in the workshop manual. 

Fingers crossed that it works.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

I'll bet it will. I went back to the oem oil drain bolt with it's aluminum washer: no leaks.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

kgw said:


> I'll bet it will. I went back to the oem oil drain bolt with it's aluminum washer: no leaks.


It seems to have worked. I haven't put pressure on / in the coolant system yet, but the drip stopped... there were actually two leaks, one at the bolt on the turbo, and the other at the banjo bolt where the coolant returns to the engine block. The one at the engine block was a huge PITA to get to with the wastegate on; the wastegate and bracket sit in front of it. I ended up not replacing those washers, mostly because I didn't want to mess with removing the bolt in that awkward position. Interestingly, while the workshop manual calls for 35nm of torque on the banjo bolts (about 25 lb-ft), ATP turbo calls for 34 lb-ft. I put 34 lb-ft on the bolt and now it's not leaking. 

This is misleading though, because I did that initially and the leak slowed but didn't stop. It's like you have to (very) carefully get as close to the limit of the bolt as possible without snapping it. I definitely went past the point of the "click" on the torque wrench for about another 1/8th of a turn.

In other news, I was going to hook up the battery and start the car today to get the rest of the coolant in the system and load the base tune, but that was halted by a crash sensor... well the connector, actually. The yellow connector on the driver's side behind the front bumper seems to be broken. I don't know if I stepped on it at some point or what, but the red tab won't slide in or out and is blocking it from connecting to the sensor. I'm afraid that if it's un-plugged that the crash sensor will trigger the airbag, so I don't want to put power into the car via the battery. I'm going to call the local VW dealer tomorrow and see if they have one, and also look at a few junkyards. 

I also have a body harness from a same year GTI, but the connector for the crash sensors is different for some reason... although it seems like it could be made to work, so I'll test that out as well. I'll make an update either way.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Good catch on the crash sensor.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

I'm bored at work, and I need to remember all the stuff I still have to do to finish the car. And I'm moving in 3 weeks, so that's how much time I have. This is the list, in no particular order:

1. Re-check and tighten DP clamp
2. Check, tighten and align subframe (more on this later)
3. Install front grille / bumper cover
4. Install headlights
5. Install weatherstrip on rain tray
6. Install and connect battery, connect battery tender
7. Add octane / fuel stabilizer to fuel tank
8. Prime fuel pump
9. Check for leaks
10. Check for leaks again
11. Download current software
12. Check current software against known values for air and fuel
13. Check for leaks
14. Check all wiring connections
15. Check for leaks
16. start car???

Also, I figured out the connector issue. Connector was actually fine, but the terminal on one of the wires was a little smashed, probably from when I ran it through the frame rail. I was a little unhappy with that particular section of the harness anyway, as the crimps for the extension were closer to the terminals than I would have liked. I ended up removing that section and making a new pigtail with the old connector that works perfectly. The best part is, I didn't have to buy a new connector or anything or wait for it to arrive.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Sometimes life gives you cherries!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Yeah, it was nice that this one little thing worked out. 

So, now it's getting oh so close, but I feel like I keep taking steps backwards. When I was working on the coolant banjo bolt, I realized that the subframe was full of coolant that leaked onto it, and as a result so was the steering rack. Not wanting to, I sucked it up and removed the subframe to get it all cleaned up. 














Not great, but not terrible. The subframe mounts were looking a little worse for wear:
















The HPA mount is on the right, and it's not too terrible, but it was worth replacing. I recently got a set of the solid 034 mounts, so I went about installing those. 
















Or so I thought. The mount is both too stiff and too soft. It flexes out at the thinner portion, and won't go in. Here's a better shot of what I'm talking about:
















I struggled with this for about 3 hours, and then gave up. This wasn't going to work. My advise is don't buy these mounts. I ended up biting the bullet and going with these:















They slid into place exactly where they belong. 
















I also put the battery in the car:
















The cables go to the battery tender. I still need to clean this all up, but it's in, and so far, things work (instrument cluster, rear hatch opens, gas cap opens). When I put the key in (I haven't tried cycling the ignition yet) the fuel pump turns on and everything sounds like it should. 

Dash lights on:














I need to tape down the oil pressure gauge pod (lifts up when the wheel is turned) but things are encouraging. 


More coming.


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## ArclitGold (Apr 21, 2009)

Wow looking awesome!


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)




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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

I forgot.... I got my oil analysis back yesterday. Here's a pic of the report:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Well, car starts and sort of idles, but I did something idiotic. I was thinking everything was hooked up and ready to go, but I didn't check myself, so I wrecked myself. The car was running really rough with some misfires, so I shut it off. Took a look around and, duh, the air charge pipe from the turbo to the intercooler... I never put it back on. 🤦‍♂️

So, of course the MAF was telling the computer to look for a different amount of air. That coupled with no intake runner flaps probably made it pretty bad. It's late and I'm tired, so I'll tackle this in the morning.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

This is cool to watch but it's also a great reminder of why I am sooo done with working on cars after 40 years of it.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Ah, yes...The saturation point, nearing the final stuff. After I replaced my 6 coil plugs (removing the wires and putting them in the new connectors) I started the car up, it sputtered, and a cloud of dark smoke came out of the engine bay I shut the engine off, and discovered a melted connector: I had swapped the two inner wires! I had a spare connector with the pigtails and a new coil, and was good to go! 🥵

This morning will be different, eh?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Okay, so last night, the car would idle but was rough and misfiring. Now it won't idle and the fans come on right away. I'm worried that the ECU is fried. Does anyone know how to test this? I forgot to remove the battery tender when I started the car. It _should _be okay, but I'm not sure. 

Also, I can't get the tuning software to read the ECU (not write to it, just read it). I sent them a tech support inquiry, but probably won't hear back until Monday. 

Lastly, if I buy a new ECU, does anyone know how this works? As in, can I just install it (probably not) or does the dealer have to key it to the car?


F M L


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

npace said:


> I struggled with this for about 3 hours, and then gave up. This wasn't going to work. My advise is don't buy these mounts. I ended up biting the bullet and going with these:



npace, if you don't mind sharing - what brand are these mounts ? OEM ?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Bronco said:


> npace, if you don't mind sharing - what brand are these mounts ? OEM ?


They're VWR mounts


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

npace said:


> They're VWR mounts


Thanks !


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

I'm with you npace, the battery tender is not the reason for your issue. Did you pull any codes yet? Checked all the wiring for "integrity?"


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

kgw said:


> I'm with you npace, the battery tender is not the reason for your issue. Did you pull any codes yet? Checked all the wiring for "integrity?"


I pulled codes and didn't get anything overly concerning, although I'm starting to think that the ECU is in fact okay. This is the code that is most interesting to me right now:

Address 22: AWD Labels: None
Part No SW: 563 tun ere l HW: 563 tun ere l
Component: Haldex 4Motion T303 
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 1D31046CC489A963C8-8048

2 Faults Found:
01315 - Transmission Control Module 
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 138
Mileage: 54678 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2019.11.24
Time: 16:50:45

00625 - Vehicle Speed Signal 
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01110001
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 138
Mileage: 54678 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2019.11.24
Time: 16:50:45

Freeze Frame:
Ign. Timing: 4.6 °BTDC
Raw, Form. N/A: 000 000 000
Raw, Form. N/A: 000 000 000
Raw, Form. N/A: 000 000 000
Raw, Form. N/A: 000 000 000
Raw, Form. N/A: 000 000 000
Raw, Form. N/A: 000 000 000
Raw, Form. N/A: 000 000 000

The TCM doesn't concern me..... I don't have one anymore and I've looked in to VCDS... I can't remove the TCM from the car's hard-coding, but I should be able to code it out of each module. 

The vehicle speed sensor, I think, is actually related to the cam position adjuster. I replaced mine with the updated version, which required a new connector and that you swap wires to a different location on the connector. I could have easily put the wires in the wrong spot here, which would make sense for "no communication". Another thing is that it says 4.6 degrees BTDC, but it should be 28 degrees.... again pointing me to the cam position adjuster. All of the symptoms I described can also relate to a bad (or improperly connected) cam position adjustment sensor, so that's going to be my first step. 

It could also be a bad cam position sensor. I already looked at the wiring, and I'm fairly certain that my wiring here is not the issue, because I didn't touch it. I did remove the cam position sensor when I had the cylinder head at the machine shop, but was pretty careful about boxing it up and setting it aside. It's of course possible that I dropped it or accidentally touched something magnetic to it, but I don't think I did. 

Anyway, I have a direction to move in now. I did find a connection that I failed to hook up (wheel speed sensor) that was causing codes, and a few of the other codes were known - the MAF not plausible signal was from before when I broke a boost hose, I knew I was going to have no communication to the runner flaps, etc. 

I might be wrong here, but if the ECU was fried, I should suddenly get no communication to the coils, injectors, etc. 

One last thing that probably isn't helping is the gas in my gas tank is over a year old. I put a bunch of fuel stabilizer in it, but that only goes so far. 

I didn't hear crunching, or rod knock, or other "expensive" sounds when I started the car, and I was meticulous about setting timing and going over it several times so I think that's good. I'm going to go over all of the engine wiring harness again, and see if I can find anything. The good news is, out of all of the possible things that could have gone wrong with wiring and sensors, I only have one code related to two connectors on the engine. I'll update here, hopefully with a pic, when I get it figured out.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Have you tried starting it again? I ended up with a dead battery a few years ago, put a new one in, no sound system. Put in a new battery, no instrument cluster!! No comm with the canbus...Checked everything I could think of, unplugged, replugged, cluster in/out, put the key in--turned it and the cluster lit up  🤩 Digital circuitry is most interesting! Only thing I did: the new battery was not fully charged, so I put the charger on it and let it fully charge. Turned the key for startup...baby came back!! 

Check all the things, for sure. Make sure the voltage in the battery is up to snuff, and turn the key again.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

electrical gremlins - VCDS help


Hi all, I need some help diagnosing some major electrical gremlins in my girlfriend's car. She drives a 2007 Rabbit, 2.5L, auto, with about 104k on the clock. About two weeks ago, she went on a 4 hour drive, and the car ran perfectly. Shut it down, let it sit for a few days, then went to...




www.volkswagenownersclub.com





OP post at #6 and down... Flaky steering column module to canbus. Double-check all the things!!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

So, things are slowly getting better with the car. First thing is that the ground to the coilpacks that runs in the main engine wiring harness was not ideal. I had it on the vacuum hard line on the back of the cylinder head, which is steel, and is part of the original grounding location (originally it was also off the vacuum hard line bracket but next to the HPFP). I relocated it to a good chassis ground and the car starts better. It now idles on its own without me hitting the gas, but idles erratically. I think this actually has to do with the runner flaps and the poor fuel... the combination of the two is probably what's doing it. 

The way it runs reminds me of having air idle control valve issues on older fuel injected cars, so now I'm almost certain it's a runner flap issue. Tomorrow I'll get new fuel and pull the back seat to drain the tank. 

Also, the magnetic intake cam valve connection had a wire that wasn't all the way seated. It was still making contact, and I'm not sure it changed anything in the short term, but I re-seated it into the connector, so it should at least be more reliable. 

I have good, consistent communication with VCDS, and can pull all control modules, including the engine and associated sensors, so I'm pretty sure I'm okay as far as the ECU goes. I have a code for the N75 valve that won't go away, so I'm digging into that, but otherwise things are going in the right direction. I ordered a new N75 and am looking into a few other potential problems. 

My only other issue is that my tuning software won't read the ECU. Really, I should be able to download the current code, code out the runner flaps and direct the TB to choke off the intake air instead, allowing me to have a smooth, normal idle. I'm thinking about biting the bullet and buying another program like Eurodyne, but it can't do everything that HP tuners can do. Also, I think Cobb might support what I'm trying to achieve, but I don't want to pay them every single time I make a hardware change.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

When in doubt, check your work, and then check it again. I had a friend over the other night who helped me install the cylinder head all those months ago. He asked to see it start, and I started it. I told him I thought that the intake manifold was causing the idle issues. It backfired a couple of times, and he said it sounded like a timing issue, like it was backfiring on the intake side (vs. the exhaust). 

Well, it's possible I could have botched the wiring to the intake cam adjuster, right? So I swapped the wires because I figured what's the worst that could happen. Lo and behold, the car now idles at around 900 RPM, which is just about where it should be. It's rough, which I attribute to a few things:

1. It's still old fuel in the car
2. It's not going to run perfect with the intake manifold and no software update
3. The VWR subframe mount is significantly stiffer than what was in there before

So that's the update. I'll post again when I have more.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Well, that's xlnt news!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Long time.... so I moved over the summer. Towed the car to the new place, and then it sat for a couple of months as I settled into my new job and then slowly got settled into the house. Projects around the house came up, then my whole family got covid (after vaccinations ) , then Thanksgiving, then Christmas, and now here we are.

When I first moved to the house, I parked the car outside in the driveway, as the house is on a steep hill and moving meant shoving a bunch of stuff in the garage because I couldn't move it all up steps from the garage into the house all at once. 

By the time January rolled around, the car wouldn't even start anymore. Nothing changed, so I'm attributing this to old gas. The last time I filled the tank was in October 2019.... that's pre-pandemic gas right there. I'm not sure, but I can absolutely see a scenario where that stuff is to old for an already rough running car to start on. 

Anyway, I got some wheel dollies for the car, and then used the Navigator (my tow vehicle) to keep the car from sliding down the driveway or crashing somewhere else, and slowly gave some slack, pushed the car, back and forth like that for what seemed like forever, but really amounted to a 40 minute workout that puts crossfit to shame. 

Sorry, no pics of any of that. But this is what's going on now:





























The second pic is from today. I became convinced that the exhaust manifold isn't seated correctly on the back of the cylinder head, and decided that removing the engine would be the best way to get at it and make absolutely sure that it is. Honestly, this was easier than messing with removing and replacing the copper stud bolts and hoping to get it right. While its out, I'm also going to remove and re-seat the intake manifold, which I'm also pretty sure isn't seated right. I ordered new gaskets from IE. With access while on the engine stand, I'm pretty sure I can make it work. 

So that's it, not super exciting but making more progress. I also have to get this going soon, as my daily (an old Subaru) has a leaking rear main seal that I've been ignoring, and I have a mountain of new seals and gaskets, because I decided if I'm going to pull that engine, that I should get everything I can while I'm in there.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

The saga continues  You must be enjoying getting back to it...


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

Wow. Just wow. you're one busy dude !! Good luck with everything !!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)




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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

So I decided to kind of shave the engine bay. I say "kind of" because I'm keeping the seam sealer, ABS, brake booster, and AC (and associated hard lines). In the above pics I deleted the no longer used (or needed) coolant ball bracket and chassis grounding post. I also got rid of the studs used to mount various brackets and accessories that I no longer need. Right now I'm in the priming process... I've primed 2 coats and sanded smooth. I need to prime another coat and smooth before I can paint. I'll post pics of that later. 

I also ordered a new clutch kit. The RSR clutch was slipping just putting the car on a trailer when I moved. There's noting wrong with it, but it can't handle the power levels I'm running. It's rated for 400 tq, it's barely used and even still has the sachs printing on the friction material. I'd be willing to let it go for pretty cheap (clutch and pressure plate combo) so if anyone wants it, send me a pm. 

There's all kinds of little stuff I need to do. More for my own memory, here's the list in no particular order:

Install new flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate
Prime and install new TOB
Drain and refill engine oil
Drain and refill Transmission oil
Put engine and transmission back together, and put in car
Reinstall rear breather
clean and check wastegate
Prime turbo (oil inlet)
rear wiper delete
fix battery box / mount
reinstall air intake manifold
run all coolant lines and re-fill
check and double check all connections
reinstall AC lines (before engine)
re-connect downpipe 
re-connect driveshaft
install front axles
bleed clutch

There's probably more that I'm missing, but I think that's about it.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

It's been a while, but there's progress.

I drained all the old fuel out of the tank. When it's this yellow, it's probably bad:














Upgrades are in progress, so the engine is out again. 














I replaced the rear main seal with a billet one:














Also, I had to run a tap through the flywheel mount threads on the crank.... they were full of gunk from when I took off the DMF. This is what the tap looked like:















Sneak peek at what I'm putting on for a clutch:















I also pulled and replaced the oil pan. 










































And I took apart the crusty old alternator.
















Then I painted the cage and re-assembled. 
















Lastly, I found a better mounting solution for the battery. No more bouncing around in the box. 













That's about it. I've taken a few steps back and forth on the engine bay. I've never done body work / painting before, wasn't happy with how it turned out, and started over. It's in primer waiting to sand right now, and then I can add color and clear.


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## ArclitGold (Apr 21, 2009)

Nice work! Let’s see some pics of the body work!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

ArclitGold said:


> Nice work! Let’s see some pics of the body work!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Yeah, so in the pic below you can see how it came out. There's a ton of dust from removing the wrap to protect the rest of the car so I've got to vacuum and clean all that up. Next step (after cleaning) will be putting the heat shield on the firewall. After that I'll install the flywheel and clutch, mate the engine to the transmission, and put those back in. 
















Looking at this, I'm thinking I should have eliminated the second (and redundant) ground stud (the one on the right), but I really don't want to smooth, prime, smooth, paint, and clear again, so I'm not going to do it. I'm thinking I'll drop the subframe and clean everything up while I have access. I also want to relocate where I have the engine harness quick connects. I think I'm going to pull the ECU back into the cabin and run the connector at the original hole on the firewall (the lower one) instead of up at the rain tray. The way it is right now works, but the harness is bulky and in the way of the wiper motor / transmission arms. Plus I think it will look cleaner if the harness is tucked out of the way a little lower and below the brake booster instead of above it. 

Other stuff I don't have pictures of: I checked and adjusted the exhaust manifold, as it was a little off on one side of the cylinder head. Last time I installed it the engine was in the car, so my access wasn't as good and while it wouldn't have made a huge issue, it's always better to have everything set up the way it should be. I also pulled the upper intake support off (the one that sits on top of the exhaust manifold) and gave it a good clean and painted it with some engine enamel. 

Lastly, I was able to get a black carpet to help finish off the interior, and that's on it's way. I still need to find a black headliner, and may have to suck up buying a new one. The problem is that there weren't that many cars without a sunroof that had black headliners in North America, and getting a used one from Europe is a little iffy because the thing basically needs to be shipped flat and full length. I have the pillar pieces and the sun visors. I guess I could do alcantara wrap or something. I also thought about getting rid of the headliner altogether and just having the painted interior. 

Okay, that's a lot of words without a lot of pics. Next time I'll do the opposite.


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## benforseter_21 (1 mo ago)

depending on how you drive, just know that driving in Fairfax County can be nerve racking with all the cops. It's well known that it is probably the worse in the area.





Nox Vidmate VLC​


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

benforseter_21 said:


> depending on how you drive, just know that driving in Fairfax County can be nerve racking with all the cops. It's well known that it is probably the worse in the area.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks... But I moved away from VA back in 2016.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Here's where I'm at: 















Probably doesn't look like much but I'm basically ready to put the engine back in. I cleaned up the area on and around the firewall, and put in some heat shield with the sticky backing to replace the factory stuff. The factory piece had this weird felt area that is impossible to clean (I know, engine bay, but still) and it's right at the top where you can see it. Before I put the engine in, I'm going to clean everything up a little more, and drop the subframe. I left it in last time, but it's kind of in the way and pretty dirty, plus there's a few areas on the front swaybar that were dinged up where rust is starting to appear, so I'm going to address that.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Test


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

npace said:


> Test


Successful


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Ha, thanks. I did that because I posted a message in the regional forum about finding a detailer near me, but it had to be reviewed by the moderator, and I didn't know if it was some new rule or not. Seems like its only something for the regional sections. That, and now I can't delete posts (or don't know how.... it isn't readily apparent to me). It's not an option when I click the three dots in the upper right corner of a post anymore.


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