# royal purple



## steveo88 (Jun 19, 2011)

is royal purple engine oila good substitute for my 2002 golf w 2.0l gas engine


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## Super Hans (May 27, 2011)

It's decent oil, nothing special. A 2.Slo needs nothing more than plain dino oil. There is nothing to be gained with any premium oil in this engine.


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

Super Hans said:


> It's decent oil, nothing special. A 2.Slo needs nothing more than plain dino oil. There is nothing to be gained with any premium oil in this engine.


Switching from dino 5w30 (previous owner) to Motul 5w40 in my 2.0 8v reduced oil consumption drastically, quieted lifter noise and increased MPGs.

Those are 3 pretty good gains for me, and I ran it to 10,000km OCIs with OEM filter.

However I wouldn't waste money on royal purple, I know I know everyone raves about it. 

No 502/505.00/505.01 stamp = it doesn't go in my VW/Audi


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## Super Hans (May 27, 2011)

2.0 needs nothing more than the most basic dino oil. There is no reason to believe otherwise.

In fact, I'm dumping the factory oil in mom's new 2.5 when it gets cool for some GTX 10w-30 I have here. VW 502 means nothing more than extended drains and ok for turbos. 

I fail to see how mpg would have increased for you from switching to an oil that is 50% thicker at operating temp.

Again, no need for synthetic or VW 502 in ANY non-turbo, sorry. 

In fact, in northern Alberta, that VW 5w-40 is far far thicker in cold than dino 5w-30, a poor choice. 

People need to equivocate their statements with reality.


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## raider (Aug 22, 2002)

steveo88,

if you want to run synthetic, you go ahead and do that. 

i run synthetic in all my vehicles because i don't always change my oil on time.

they're my cars and i will use whatever oil i feel like.....at least until hans starts paying

for my oil changes.


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## Super Hans (May 27, 2011)

I guess that's a good approach if you have no idea what the lube requirements of an old n/a 4 cyl are.


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*recommended*

vw recommends 5w-40 502 spec oil. just a hunch but they may have a little more expertise than our internet experts.


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## Super Hans (May 27, 2011)

Funny, because before VW went to extended service there was no 502 rec for the 2.Slo, it took API SJ oil. 

Funny too, all the expertise at VW, they have zero experience with US market oils.


Funny too, all the newest VW oils are 5w-30.


Funny too, there is no data to prove otherwise, that "synthetic" or 502 is necessary, just speculation.


Funny too, VW doesn't test every oil on the market and select the best for VW, lol. 


Non-VW oil seemed to work very well in my GTI...










How can that be...???


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*funny?*

whatever, should never have questioned an anonamous genius.


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## shipo (Jan 3, 2006)

Super Hans said:


> In fact, in northern Alberta, that VW 5w-40 is far far thicker in cold than dino 5w-30, a poor choice.
> 
> People need to equivocate their statements with reality.


I'm thinking your opinions are based more on fantasy that fact. I've seen lots of VOA and UOA reports, and I've yet to see even one which would suggest that a 5W-30 conventional oil is anything but thick molasses compared to a 5W-40 (or better yet a 0W-40) synthetic oil. So, I'm thinking it's time for you to "equivocate your statements with reality."


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## Super Hans (May 27, 2011)

Are you asking me to come to your house with a bottle of 5w-30 and a bottle of 5w-40 and put them in your freezer for you? That seems to be the only way you'd accept facts, a physical demonstration, because you seem baffled by just the technical description. 

5w-30 is thinner than 5w-40 at all temps, by definition, about 1/2 as thick at some temps.

Getting hung-up on the "synthetic" or non-synthetic label is a basic stumbling block, get over it.

If you don't know something, look it up or figure it out, don't give some bumbling rhetorical blurb based on tortured logic and the inevitable, "prove me wrong". :facepalm:

So, step one: put 2 oils in the freezer.

Step two: take oils out of the freezer and compare their viscosity.

Step three: post results here.

Think it'll ever happen? Doubt it.

Even better, try some 0w-30 Syntec next to 5w-30 dino and get back to me. 

Place your bets which one is thicker in the freezer at 0f.

How about 0w-40?

This should be good.


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*don't question the hans*

he know what he knows, not much:screwy:


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## jmj (Feb 6, 2001)

Jay-Bee said:


> No 502/505.00/505.01 stamp = it doesn't go in my VW/Audi


I don't pretend to be any sort of oil expert and I have no desire to enter the fray of the "oil knowledge wars v2.0), but I lost all faith in the VW specs when I followed the factory recommended oil change specifications, using 502 oils, and discovered one day that my cam shaft had eaten my fuel pump plunger and cam follower for lunch (out of warranty, of course) without ever throwing a code to alert me of the problem. I had to fight VWoA for any relief on the repair bill for a couple of months, even with full documentation of my car's maintenance history from day one (i.e. proof that I had not neglected the engine through improper maintenance or modifications). Two years later they reimbursed me the other half of the repair bill, which they should have done all along, IMHO.

Anyway, I've used a non-502 oil since then and had significantly less wear on my cam follower. I know because I check it every time I change the oil (banjo bolt be damned). I'm at almost 128K miles, and the repairs were done at 85K.

I understand that many people assume VW's engineers know more about what oil to use in any given engine, and maybe they do, but I have my doubts that this is the driving force (no pun intended) behind the oils on the 502 list, or any other factory approved oil list from VW. If I were under warranty, but that would be the only reason I relied upon that list.


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## raider (Aug 22, 2002)

i think we have an 'oil nazi' in our midst.

'NO OIL FOR YOU!'


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## Mortal_Wombat (Jan 29, 2004)

He's Obnoxious

Honestly run whatever weight you want
I like synthetic, much less oil burn-off.
And no lifter tick on cold mornings anymore.


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## Super Hans (May 27, 2011)

Mortal_Wombat said:


> He's Obnoxious
> 
> Honestly run whatever weight you want
> I like synthetic, much less oil burn-off.
> And no lifter tick on cold mornings anymore.


 
Lucky we have this technical reference at our disposal. :facepalm:


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## Mortal_Wombat (Jan 29, 2004)

*FV-QR*

yup i need a ten page document to tell me that my car no longer lifter ticks on cold mornings since i switched to synthetic, or that i no longer need to add a quart between oil changes. 
f*ck you buddy.


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## Super Hans (May 27, 2011)

Yeah, I bet those South Carolina mornings are brutal. :snowcool: 

Of course you ruled out the ADBV having anything to do with lifter tick. 

"Synthetic" oil makes all the difference because thinner oil is better for that, or is it thicker?  

I guess that's why we have experts, or at least people who have a clue. :screwy:


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## Super Hans (May 27, 2011)

91 Jetta is pretty hard on oil too, huh? That was API SH? lol. 

If any engine needs synthetic oil, it's an old beater Jetta in a Southern climate. :facepalm:


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## Mortal_Wombat (Jan 29, 2004)

*FV-QR*

arm chair engineer. 

you keep doing your "thing" and I'll keep putting in synthetic 5w50. 
I'll enjoy my quiet engine and not having to add oil every 2k miles. 


I've made my point, arguing with you is no longer worth my time.


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## Super Hans (May 27, 2011)

Super Hans said:


> If any engine needs synthetic oil, it's an old beater Jetta in a Southern climate.


 
:thumbdown::thumbdown::thumbdown: 


Welcome to the clown party that is Vortex Lube Forum. :screwy: 


Of course, a strong technical background is a plus. :what:


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*the oil nazi has spoken*



Super Hans said:


> :thumbdown::thumbdown::thumbdown:
> 
> 
> Welcome to the clown party that is Vortex Lube Forum. :screwy:
> ...


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## JohnStamos (Feb 3, 2010)

Every time someone with actual knowledge enters this forum, all the people who "think" they understand this very basic subject come in and argue FACTS with their opinion that they based off false logic.

You will soon learn, Hans, that this is the Vortex. It is a HUGE joke. They don't care about facts or hard data. 



Go tell someone with a 90k ABA, that gets babied back and forth to work daily, that running 20w50 dino in the winter, let alone ever, is a stupid idea on many counts, and watch them explain how you are an idiot because the higher grade the oil the more protection it provides. and how 0w's wont provide enough "pressure" Literally went 6 pages of this. 


They will never learn, and never understand. You are wasting your time.


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## Super Hans (May 27, 2011)

Agreed, but I'm writing for the average bloke who would like to know if there are any gains to be had uprating from plain dino oil. Thumping on the posters whose opinion > their knowledge is just part of the task.


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## Super Hans (May 27, 2011)

Super Hans said:


> If any engine needs synthetic oil, it's an old beater Jetta in a Southern climate. :facepalm:


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*soup*



Super Hans said:


>


you wouldn't be from eastern pa would you?


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## Super Hans (May 27, 2011)

Mortal_Wombat said:


> arm chair engineer.
> 
> you keep doing your "thing" and I'll keep putting in synthetic 5w50.
> I'll enjoy my quiet engine and not having to add oil every 2k miles.



Pfft, I got you one better, how about strait axle grease? That would be even quieter and hardly any burn-off. :facepalm:


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## Super Hans (May 27, 2011)

gmikel said:


> you wouldn't be from eastern pa would you?



No, but it's colder than South Carolina! :snowcool:


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## harmankardon35 (Sep 16, 2009)

I live in a warmer part of canada(southern ontario), but I ran 5w40 synthetic in an ABA in the winter because it was a good deal (half price) . Big mistake, my engine turned over like it had a dead battery and i thought i was going to destroy my valve-train as it was warming up on a cold morning. 5w30 dino, believe it or not, was much better @ sub -15c mornings. I think the 5W synth would have been perfectly fine, but not necessary in the summer.


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*5w-40*

i've been using fuchs supersyn or total 5w-40 year round until this year when i used fuchs 5w-30 in the winter. going back to 5w-40 this winter. ski all over the north east with temps to the -20'sf. can't say i see much difference. keep your battery up.

use what works for you. if you use good oil, no matter the brand, you'll be fine. changing the oil is more important than the brand. the 10 k interval has so many exceptions if you read the manual that almost no-one really falls into that catagory.


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*speaking of jokes*



JohnStamos said:


> Every time someone with actual knowledge enters this forum, all the people who "think" they understand this very basic subject come in and argue FACTS with their opinion that they based off false logic.
> 
> You will soon learn, Hans, that this is the Vortex. It is a HUGE joke. They don't care about facts or hard data.
> 
> ...


guess you guys can figure out more in your carports than all the manufactures engineers put together. go figure


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## SCToy (Jul 26, 2011)

I stumbled across this thread googling VWs because my Mom's VW is such a pain in the ass and breaks down all the time. I just had to make an account because this thread is :banghead:
Hans you're an idiot if you think dino oil will be thinner than synthetic in the freezer. NEVER GUNNA HAPPEN.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles
All the info that is based on fact for those who actually care about the oil they put in their car. I would actually disagree with the author of this article's oil brand choice, but the facts of what he is saying does ring true.

Hans can just keep putting dino pennzoil in his car for all I care :facepalm:


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## Super Hans (May 27, 2011)

*Can't fix stupid.*

BZZT.








:facepalm:


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*audijerk?*



Super Hans said:


> BZZT.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


recognized your signature BZZT


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## JohnStamos (Feb 3, 2010)

gmikel said:


> guess you guys can figure out more in your carports than all the manufactures engineers put together. go figure



No, you tool. The fact that this is EASILY FOUND PUBLISHED DATA.


It's not rocket science, but some of us actually have credentials, schooling, and TON's of SAE paper's I can throw in your face if you are that dense, and STILL don't get it.






Are you saying because I ported my head, and cut and welded my intake up, and made MORE power in the entire band, and got better mileage, and suffered no drawbacks, that I am an idiot, because the "Engineers know more then everyone in the world"? No. It's called production, and packaging. Not everything is optimized from the factory, including the generic oil chart.


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*you're right*



JohnStamos said:


> No, you tool. The fact that this is EASILY FOUND PUBLISHED DATA.
> 
> 
> It's not rocket science, but some of us actually have credentials, schooling, and TON's of SAE paper's I can throw in your face if you are that dense, and STILL don't get it.
> ...


it's not rocket science and does not need to be made as complicated as it is here. i don't remember anyone suggesting you were or are an idiot. i think it was you who called the rest of us a joke. this all started when i suggested a fellow stay with what works for him, after all he has gone 235k. terrible advice i know.


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## Super Hans (May 27, 2011)

You have to WANT to learn.


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*just not from you*



Super Hans said:


> You have to WANT to learn.


are you sure you haven't been banned under various user names in the past? :screwy:


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## Super Hans (May 27, 2011)

You are a weird one for sure. :what:


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*really*



Super Hans said:


> You are a weird one for sure. :what:


whats so wierd about figuring you out. you are audijerk aren't you?


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## SCToy (Jul 26, 2011)

Viscosity is a measure of the resistance of a fluid which is being deformed by either shear stress or tensile stress. In everyday terms (and for fluids only), viscosity is "thickness" or "internal friction". Thus, water is "thin", having a lower viscosity, while honey is "thick", having a higher viscosity. Put simply, the less viscous the fluid is, the greater its ease of movement (fluidity).

Higher viscosity is thicker, thanks for proving yourself wrong :laugh:


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## SCToy (Jul 26, 2011)

It's easy to find published date, but I guess it's not easy for everyone to understand it :screwy:


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