# The Ultimate Ebay Big Turbo Experiment



## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

I’m too broke to afford even a Kinetic 50 Trim kit so I decided to take the plunge and get all my major BT parts from Ebay, just for the hell of it. Please don’t start telling me how stupid I am for not going APR 3+, CTS 50 trim kit, or buying “quality” used parts. I am aware of these options and am happy for you if you chose them. The point of my experiment was to go as cheaply as possible and to see how the Ebay parts hold up, and for how many miles. I do expect some or all of them to fail. I am interested in how and at what point them fail (if in fact they do fail). Also keep in my mind my GTI has 162,000 miles on it and I have a hard time spending more on the car than the car is worth. Anyway….
First up, the classic Ebay T3/T4 turbo you’ve seen all over the place on Ebay for around 140 dollars shipped. We’ve all seen the hilarious pictures of old Turbo XS Ebay turbos that were glued together. Mine came fully bolted together, though I did take it apart. The ones made these days are basic journal bearing Garrett knock-offs the Chinese seem to have successfully reverse engineered. The castings seem decent, the exhaust wheel has balance grind marks, etc. The exhaust side is .63a/r. You will not see .48a/r anywhere on Ebay for these knock-offs for some reason. The compressor wheel could either be a 50 trim or 57 trim. The sellers of these seem to often confuse the compressor housing with the compressor wheel. I would obviously prefer the 50 trim, as the 57 trim surges, but because I have a stock bottom end, I will limit boost to around 18-19 psi, where I am told the 57 trim behaves itself pretty well.
















































































Next up, the Ebay wastegate for around 65 bucks shipped (vs. around 300 bucks for the real deal). These are Tial-type 38mm knock-offs. I took it apart just to take a look around, though I didn’t take any pictures of the inside. Inside is basically just the diaphragm, which looked to be the standard reinforced silicone material. Otherwise these are simple devices, with a large spring and the metal valve. The wastegate also came with additional springs that can be put inside, though I will be controlling boost with a manual boost controller. The lowest boost pressure for this one is 7 psi, when only one spring has been installed. 
















Next up, the classic Ebay no-name T3/T4 ATP rip-off exhaust manifold for about 75 bucks (vs. 395.00 from ATP). Mine even came with “ATP” in the casting, though it was manufactured by “EMUSA”. The casting is somewhat rough, but decent, and lays flat and smooth on the head. We’ve all heard that the iron in these suck and that it should crumble and crack shortly, but we’ll soon find out. 
















Lastly, the Ebay T3/T4 downpipe, which I got from an Ebay store called “E-Motors” for 90 bucks. This is a one-piece copy of ATP’s three-piece 3” downpipe (they charge 395 bucks for theirs). When I bought it, I figured there was no way in hell it would fit and that they’d gotten all the bends correct, but it fits. Go ahead and laugh at the welds, they’re pretty bad. Interestingly, I have not seen these for sale on Ebay since about last September. 
















For oil supply and return I went with ATP parts. For intake, I used the 3” modular intake Fast and Furious crap from Pep Boys (about 50 bucks vs 150 from ATP), but it looks and works okay. 
For fueling and software I will go Unitronic or Eurodyne 630cc with injectors and fuel pump. But I will need to save another 1000 bucks before I can do this. Feel free to send me money if you want to know how these parts hold at 19psi. 
Here's most of the pieces before install:

















Update:
So far I have put about 500 miles on the parts. Boost builds fine, though I am limited to around 9psi on my stock fuel system. No smoke, no screeching noises of turbines or compressors on housings. Wastegate seems hold boost very steady with no problems. Obviously this is too soon to see how the manifold is holding up or any other parts for that matter, but so far so good. I will keep the board posted on how the parts hold up so others can take the chance on Ebay parts if you are as broke as I am. 
Update 2
Here are a few extra pictures showing the kit after install after someone requested them. Not anything special or different from what you would expect a standard ATP style BT install to look like. You’ll see that for the “perfect” fit for the ATP Ebay knock-off downpipe, you need to add two extra 5 bolt turbo flanges. These shift the entire downpipe over about 1 inch which is what it needs for perfect clearance. I think the people who cloned the ATP downpipe forgot that at the turbo “end” of the ATP downpipe, it connects with a V band adapter that bolts to the turbo which adds about 1 inch in length. If this doesn’t make sense, don’t worry about it. Anyway, you can get the extra flanges on Ebay for about 10 bucks a piece. 
























Someone also asked how much I’ve spent for hardware for my “recession BT build”. My goal was to spend about 1000 bucks on hardware (including every nut, bolt, etc.) and about 1000 bucks on name brand BT software and fueling for a total of 2000 dollars for a set up that would give me about 300-330 whp and about 300 wheel torque (what my current clutch and stock rods are good for). So currently I’ve spent about 1000 bucks for the entire hardware set up. You could do it cheaper. 
If you don’t want to pay 82 bucks for ATP’s fancy oil drain kit with the oil pan adapter, do what I did (if you’re not afraid to have your friends laugh at you). I found that ATP’s 5/8” silicon oil drain hose (at 8 bucks per foot, buy two feet) fits nicely over the existing stock oil drain pipe, when you cut it. I know what you’re thinking, but it is not leaking so far. (The stock oil drain has an extra bend in it to cut separately and use as necessary for clearance.) For extra protection from the hot downpipe, I slipped over Pep Boys spark plug wire thermal protectors. Probably not necessary though. Here's a pic.








For oil supply, I did splurge and get ATP’s regular oil supply kit as I already mentioned. Attention: my Ebay T3/T4 required a different oil supply fitting than the ones that work on real Garretts. You will need to get a 4an to M10 x 1.25 fitting available on Ebay for about 7 bucks.
I had originally planned to dump my wastegate to the atmosphere for maximum cheapness but decided against it when I realized that for now it would be opening at 7psi, that is to say always, even in the parking lot of Starbucks. Since I don’t have access to a welder, and didn’t want to pay some muffler shop (who would probably immediately report me to the smog Nazi’s here in California) I came up with this somewhat monstrous creation. It is an “exhaust cutout” I found online at JEGS for about 28 bucks. This let me route my wastegate dump into it using standard exhaust components from Pep Boys. Also, this will let me disconnect it and dump my wastegate (or my entire exhaust) into the air when I’m in a really crappy mood or wanting to piss off my neighbors. Here it is.









The inspiration for my build, the classic (Godspeed) Ebay frontmount which has served my full-of-hot-air K03s for the past few years.








Also, here’s a pic of the first failed component, which I should have known better (will I end up saying this about all the parts?) This wastegate gasket that came with a dump tube I bought on Ebay (25 bucks). It burned through almost immediately, leading to a nasty exhaust leak. A word to the wise, only use metal gaskets for these wastegate gaskets. Maybe everybody on earth already knew this except me. 








I will update again at the next failure and/or every 1000 miles, whichever comes first! 



_Modified by TimC at 10:46 PM 11-9-2009_


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## saps (Jul 10, 2009)

Keep us posted man, I enjoyed you're write up! 
I hope nothing breaks on you.


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## weirdvw (Feb 22, 2003)

looking good. are you using a ebay FMC ? good luck 
hope it will last


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## 03gtibturbo (Jul 23, 2009)

*Re: (victorhfranco)*

i used a e-musa turbo kit for a long time. e-musa is a little shop from my home town in indianapolis IN, they checked out. i bossted 20psi on there 50trim 63ar. did two passes at the strip and worked pretty good, i am changing it out as soon as i get home to a cts kit. good luck some times you just get lucky


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## ethorman (Jun 18, 2006)

I am interested in how well the manifold will hold up.


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## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

*Re: (ethorman)*

wanna buy a tapp 630cc ecu with 93pump/104 race gas file?
your ecu + cash monies.
its immob. defeated, mafless, emissions delete. my car is out of comission for a while and i will be going to an 870 or 1000cc file http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## ibiza 20vf (Nov 21, 2008)

Wish u good luck with your experiment! I d like to be updated about the turbo when u start boosting..
A friend tried one of these turbos had his car going really crazy but after 2000km the turbo blowed. Anyway just for reference i have tried 2 of these wastegates and BOTH failed at the same point.. PISTON! Yeap right!! The piston scratched to both of them and the leaked air to exhaust and reverse.. Hope yours last more than mine.. Also if u have a tial and see the material of the diaphragm it is a little different.
Good luck and keep us updated!


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## storx (Dec 6, 2006)

good luck man.. i have many friends that run these ebay turbos... they have gotten better on machining.. one of the things they found was if you hook up a oil line to them and spin with a vacuum cleaner that the metal shaving are still in them from assembly.. so most of my friend take them apart carefully and inspect everythink.. or they just hook them up to a cheap electric pump and pump fluids through them.. 
When they blow.. there easy enough to have rebuilt from a turbo rebuilder for 200-250 dollars..


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## EF9Si (Dec 12, 2003)

*Re: (ethorman)*

I'm actually running an ATP clone manifold from ebay and I've been running that for almost 2 yrs now! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Hope your experience is better than mine, which is it will warp slowly driving you nuts over x amount of months and run like garbage while doing so.

I just got my car back together with pagparts hardware, and it now runs perfect from a dead cold start under all conditions.


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## Hawaii5-0 (Apr 10, 2007)

*Re: The Ultimate Ebay Big Turbo Experiment (TimC)*

you are a brave soul! hope everything holds up while you save for replacements. what, e-bay doesn't have big turbo software?








i hate saying it, but, good luck bro. may the force be with you http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: The Ultimate Ebay Big Turbo Experiment (TimC)*

congrats on taking the plunge, I'm looking forward to updates. I'm secretly hoping your eBay kit lasts forever


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## audis488 (May 19, 2006)

these turbos do not like going above 22 psi. i had one for like 2k miles at about 18 psi was working pretty good full boost by 4k. raised it up to 24 psi for like 3 days then it started to burn oil like crazy. soo much shaft play when i pull it off. went through 2 of the btw, now have a 3076r waiting to go on.....


_Modified by audis488 at 4:48 PM 11-8-2009_


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## -Khaos- (Dec 22, 2003)

*FV-QR*

I think you'll find it'll last for ever on low boost.
On high boost, which is what it takes to make power on these engines.... probably won't last too long.


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## coreyj (Aug 18, 2006)

i would have had it balanced before i put it on.. even though they say there balanced already they like to tear apart themselves alot.


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## vwturbo02 (Sep 8, 2006)

*Re: (coreyj)*

I have an Ebay front mount intercooler that works great!


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## coreyj (Aug 18, 2006)

*Re: (vwturbo02)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwturbo02* »_I have an Ebay front mount intercooler that works great!









i am also guilty of this.. 3 years and counting w/ no problems. i couldnt justify $750 for a radiator.


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## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

*Re: The Ultimate Ebay Big Turbo Experiment (TimC)*

all eyes on this thread ...wanna def know how this turns out


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## 5inchMAF (Sep 12, 2007)

*FV-QR*

i wish they had that DP when i did my very first BT kit way back when. i found it used for $150 and i thought that was the deal of the century. all the Ebay DPs for the K03 hold up just fine....
BTW, ive NEVER run any T3 exhaust mani besides the Ebay ATP knock off. ive put years on them!!! ive never had even one issue with them!!! nor has anyone ive know that used them....


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## halchka99 (Apr 18, 2002)

*FV-QR*

ive got a buddy who sells this downpipe manifold etc. If anyone is interested you can PM me


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## J-tec (May 20, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (halchka99)*

Interested to see how this comes out!! Always wondered when a little build like this would come up, def curious to see how it holds up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Good luck man


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (J-tec)*

Thanks for the interest and support in my slightly crazy experiment (this is my daily driver that I depend on getting to work in after all). I will keep the board updated on issues and problems as they arise. Also, I will be updating my original post with miscellaneous information pertaining to small annoying things to keep in mind when using all these slightly mismatched parts if anyone actually tries to recreate this "recession" BT build.


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## blackgti1340 (Oct 28, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TimC)*

do you have any pics of it installed? so far everything looks good, keep up the good work!


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## drftstars wolfsburg (Oct 29, 2009)

swwet build im curiouis to see how wel the parts work toghter and how much power it will make vs going top dollar. i love these wacky tangent builds it shows that there are still real budget minded ppl out there


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## RonN (Feb 15, 2001)

*Re: (drftstars wolfsburg)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## dspl1236 (May 30, 2007)

i have seen a few full ebay builds on 1.8t's and 12v vr's.
vr6t made 380whp @ 490wtq 18psi on ebay t60-1. ran for 3 years being abused. ebay ic, ebay dv, ebay mani, and ebay wg. would still be running if the mkii was not parted out this last year. turbo was spiked 22-24psi a few times on pinched vac lines, but all held.


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: The Ultimate Ebay Big Turbo Experiment (TimC)*

poor man's software = injectors, vr maf housing, diode, and unisettings.
.
.
.
.
.

I said "poor man's" not "smart man's".


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## gti03AE (Jul 8, 2009)

*Re: The Ultimate Ebay Big Turbo Experiment (TimC)*

Jw how much do you think you saved over all? Good luck with the "recession BT build" http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 860redrabbit (Dec 5, 2006)

this should be interesting....subscribed.


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## 860redrabbit (Dec 5, 2006)

*Re: The Ultimate Ebay Big Turbo Experiment (hawaii_50)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hawaii_50* »_you are a brave soul! hope everything holds up while you save for replacements. *what, e-bay doesn't have big turbo software?







*
i hate saying it, but, good luck bro. may the force be with you http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

well....actuallyyyyyyy http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ories


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## boots patrol (May 26, 2009)

*Re: The Ultimate Ebay Big Turbo Experiment (TimC)*

watching...
i was curious and looked for a turbo kit for my vr6 on ebay and the prices are super low as we all know and i was wondering why so i posted up on the link to the kit and most people have nothing good to say about them. this is like my savior post, if this work out for you i'm deffinately going for it. good luck dude.


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## bwalzywolfsburg (Feb 10, 2008)

*Re: The Ultimate Ebay Big Turbo Experiment (boots patrol)*

I believe all you got to do is inspect the parts when they arrive. I mean they are cheap. If i bought a turbo off ebay I would take it to a place who rebuilds turbos for them to inspect it


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## bwalzywolfsburg (Feb 10, 2008)

*Re: The Ultimate Ebay Big Turbo Experiment (bwalzywolfsburg)*

suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuperrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr K03
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ories


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## Gear_Dog (Aug 11, 2006)

*Re: The Ultimate Ebay Big Turbo Experiment (bwalzywolfsburg)*

Good Luck with the build, I'll be watching this one.


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## 5inchMAF (Sep 12, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *boots patrol* »_watching...
i was curious and looked for a turbo kit for my vr6 on ebay and the prices are super low as we all know and i was wondering why so i posted up on the link to the kit and most people have nothing good to say about them. this is like my savior post, if this work out for you i'm deffinately going for it. good luck dude.










Just remember, if this works out for him, he is a VERY lucky man indeed!! at least use a real turbo.


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## boots patrol (May 26, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (5inchMAF)*

these ebay turbos are bullcrapola right? well i mean he took it appart and said everything seemed fine. i'm new to all this turbo whatnot, and i really wanna learn so i will be watching and commenting. but if you run low boost, shouldn't everything be alright? or not necessarily?


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (boots patrol)*

the materials are lesser quality and the balancing is off. Main reason why they seem to last ok with low psi and fall apart fast when its turned up. Faster shaft speeds, more off balance it becomes. Just like your tires when you get above 60mph and you can feel the wobble


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## boots patrol (May 26, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (cincyTT)*

so basically you should be safe if you keep it at a lower psi from like 10-15? i'm not looking for a race car, this would be my daily driver nd i'm just looking for a little more pep in my step you know?


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## coreyj (Aug 18, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (boots patrol)*


_Quote, originally posted by *boots patrol* »_so basically you should be safe if you keep it at a lower psi from like 10-15? i'm not looking for a race car, this would be my daily driver nd i'm just looking for a little more pep in my step you know?

you just said what everyone originally want to do is just want a little bit more power. then you will eventually want more and more power, so keeo that in mine


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (coreyj)*

Update added to original post with more info and a report on the first Ebay part failure! Don't worry, it's not too bad...yet.


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## ethorman (Jun 18, 2006)

If you want alittle more power for less $$$ get a HY 35, or 50trim and rebuild them, then they will last a long time.


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## boots patrol (May 26, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (coreyj)*

yea i get what you're saying but those couple extra poney will do me fine i believe, i mean i just want to learn more about turbos and how to put them together bla bla and the only way to learn is to actually do it right? and instead fo going super crazy with greddy and garret turbo kits, why not try with a cheap one? or am i completely wrong










_Modified by boots patrol at 9:56 AM 11-10-2009_


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

It's your nickel, spend it how you like. My car's almost finished being built and I overspent the crap out of my budget just to make sure it was more reliable than less. I need a daily driver, not a car that's being repaired repeatedly.


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## MarkusSwe (Nov 10, 2009)

Damn you have inspired me! i have just ordered a similar turbo and a similar manifold that i am going to bolt on my vw passat 1.8t -98. hope everything works out for me to!
t3/t4 turbo, 53/76mm compressor whit ar .50, 58/74mm turbine with ar .63 whit and internal wastegate and a casted manifold without a wastegate connection.








How does the engine run with the stock software? does it deliver enough fuel all the way to the revlimiter?
i have a stage1 software in my car, boost around 1bar (14-15psi?) at 2000rpm, but only 0.5bar (6-7psi?) at the revlimiter, im going for some new software soon, i have some 450cc/min injectors. but will the engine run well with my stage1 software or will it run leen above 4000rpm? dont really now how these maf ecu's works, only worked with map-based ecus before. had a MegaSquirt in my last car.
sorry for the bad english, i live in Sweden.

_Modified by MarkusSwe at 2:54 PM 11-10-2009_


_Modified by MarkusSwe at 3:09 PM 11-10-2009_


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## houeis (Oct 13, 2005)

Good luck to you guys! I am going with a similar setup, but will not be going cheap on the Turbo. I am looking into a turbonetics. Anyways, I have bookmarked this, and I am hoping things go well for you guys!


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## 860redrabbit (Dec 5, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (5inchMAF)*

was pokeing around on ebay and found this kit for anyone that is thinking of going this route, it seems to be from the same "E-motors/Speedyracer" company. $600 for FMIC,turbo,manifold,oil feed and return line, and downpipe
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ories


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (860redrabbit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *860redrabbit* »_was pokeing around on ebay and found this kit for anyone that is thinking of going this route, it seems to be from the same "E-motors/Speedyracer" company. $600 for FMIC,turbo,manifold,oil feed and return line, and downpipe
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ories


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## GLI_jetta (Jan 3, 2006)

*Re: The Ultimate Ebay Big Turbo Experiment (TimC)*

your CHRA should be clocked a little more so the feed line is a little more verticle... you want oil going over the bearing at a verticle position.


_Modified by GLI_jetta at 2:43 PM 11-11-2009_


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## 860redrabbit (Dec 5, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (gdoggmoney)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gdoggmoney* »_



















you came into an EBAY BT Experiment thread, and then bashed an ebay BT experiment....right. Go back to another thread and troll around.


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (cincyTT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cincyTT* »_the materials are lesser quality and the balancing is off. Main reason why they seem to last ok with low psi and fall apart fast when its turned up. Faster shaft speeds, more off balance it becomes. Just like your tires when you get above 60mph and you can feel the wobble

Most relevant is that the materials are a lesser quality. Odds are your components have come reasonably balanced, but they are made with less-costly alloys. So long as you "baby it" you will be staying away from these materials' main bugaboo: heat. Unlike OEM Garrett and BW, the bargain Chinese materials will be unable to withstand the high EGTs that accompany hard driving. The two best areas for the Chinese to shave costs are in the turbine housing and wheel/shaft. The former will be vulnerable to cracking, the latter to deformation and warping when left standing at motor turnoff.
My recommendations: don't spend too much extended time at high boost -- and allow ample cooldown at idle.


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## boots patrol (May 26, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (slappy_dunbar)*

sooo, maintain like 10 psi and haver a turbo timer?


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (860redrabbit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *860redrabbit* »_
you came into an EBAY BT Experiment thread, and then bashed an ebay BT experiment....right. Go back to another thread and troll around.


Take a look at the flange on that downpipe, and then tell me it is going to seal against exhaust leaks.
There is no experiment when what is there will fail and cause issues right of the bat.
Next time use common sense and some logic.
The original poster had a fighting chance with his ebay setup. The post I responded to is practically soup cans and scrap metal like it or not.


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## burkechrs1 (Dec 1, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (gdoggmoney)*

honda guys run ebay turbos for years without problems. granted they rarely push over 10psi. but im sure if honda can do it vw can do it. its just a matter or pride and who wants to use ebay parts on their car.
im def gonna watch this. get software asap!


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## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

can we get some VIDEOS up on here im really checking into this and it seems likke if we had a couple of youtube vids of the progress that would be a sweet way to update us


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## -Khaos- (Dec 22, 2003)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *burkechrs1* »_honda guys run ebay turbos for years without problems. granted they rarely push over 10psi. but im sure if honda can do it vw can do it. its just a matter or pride and who wants to use ebay parts on their car.
im def gonna watch this. get software asap!


The problem is they can make good power on low boost
We can't. So might as well stay stock really.


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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (-Khaos-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-Khaos-* »_
The problem is they can make good power on low boost
We can't. So might as well stay stock really. 

with that said... U never answered the question. how well is Ur set up running on the stock softwear? Do U notice any gains? any cut out or lag? hows it feel to drive so far?


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## motoo344 (May 26, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (~Enigma~)*

So if you can't really push this setup because of the quality of parts, what kind of power can you even expect at low psi? Good luck with everything.


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## geminidubberGTI (Dec 18, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (motoo344)*

I'm also interested to see how this goes............keep it updated lets see your setup amd software. I'm suscribed


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## storx (Dec 6, 2006)

the quality of the turbos and turbo kits on ebay have made a large jump over the years.. i have watch time after time of friends ordering these turbos and parts and figuring out the weak points and fixing them before install... 
For example the stainless tubular manifolds.. are really cheap and rather ok... but they are not extremely durable and on dsm's have over the years learned how they break and people buy them take them to a local machine shops and have them braced and welded for like 100.00 making an really durable proven unit afterwards.. without having to start from scratch....
Hint.. if your interested on the stainless tube ebay manifolds.. take them to a shop and have them weld down the side of the tubes 180 degrees across from each other.. what this does is create stronger bracing for the steal to not expand the wrong way... they tend to crack on the long sections of stainless from the welds being stronger then the metal.
I know about 6 folks running ebay manifolds on there car reliably daily..... as in the tubular stainless ones.. they went up 2 gauges in thicknes on the metal it seems also this year.


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

*Re: (storx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *storx* »_the quality of the turbos and turbo kits on ebay have made a large jump over the years.. i have watch time after time of friends ordering these turbos and parts and figuring out the weak points and fixing them before install... 
For example the stainless tubular manifolds.. are really cheap and rather ok... but they are not extremely durable and on dsm's have over the years learned how they break and people buy them take them to a local machine shops and have them braced and welded for like 100.00 making an really durable proven unit afterwards.. without having to start from scratch....
Hint.. if your interested on the stainless tube ebay manifolds.. take them to a shop and have them weld down the side of the tubes 180 degrees across from each other.. what this does is create stronger bracing for the steal to not expand the wrong way... they tend to crack on the long sections of stainless from the welds being stronger then the metal.
I know about 6 folks running ebay manifolds on there car reliably daily..... as in the tubular stainless ones.. they went up 2 gauges in thicknes on the metal it seems also this year.

I beg to differ on this. I had the opportunity to help out w/ a local 1000whp mustang project that involves a BW S375R (50lb turbo). Owner brought me the manifold that was purchased from god knows where. Long tube w/ a Y-union made out of some nirosta ss tubing that my bandsaw just whipped through easier then mild steel. Not to mention that there was a 38mm flange to vent this. I dont know what ppl are thinking these days. But here is a pic of the aforementioned wastegate tube off that very manifold next to your run-of-the-mill 16g 304 material stock I use for dump tubes. Notice the quality of the cut on the left as opposed to the ragged cut on the right that tells you that it cut through that in no time... Notice also the wall thickness... Also notice the 'brace' lol...








I just cant see these things being braced as that will only accomplish accentuating the weak areas even further. The material is not substantial enough to absorb the heat. They will just kind of wilt after a while. While better/thicker/more expensive material will absorb a bit of the stress before failing, I can only see these things acting more like an eggshell when stressed...


_Modified by [email protected] at 6:21 AM 11-16-2009_


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## EuroTrash88 (Oct 4, 2007)

*Re: ([email protected])*

watching


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

*Re: (EuroTrash88)*


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## 01 (Sep 9, 2009)

*FV-QR*


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## Vdubed13 (Jun 6, 2008)

Bump just bought this kit cause my turbos going out on my car....Hopefully will be on during the winter when i park the car...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...2ee99


----------



## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

*Re: (Vdubed13)*

I hope to god that works for ya that looks like the OP's kit, yet even cheaper, and the intercooler is even made for our cars... its not a universal piping kit. idk, this is what I wanted for a kit but wit the cost of repairs I couldnt afford it... well this ebay kit is giving me hope... specialy Ur E-motors (aka EMUSA) kit. beautiful, affordable and even if its a "cheap ebay kit" Im not planning on boosting the **** out of it. I was thinking of 14 to 18lbs psi. maybe something like giacx+ or maybe revo can tweek a program a lil for me (thats all i have round here)


----------



## Vdubed13 (Jun 6, 2008)

Yea its cheap but looks nice anyway i already have a eurojet intercooler kit im just buying kit for turbo and exhaust mani and oil lines and stuff cause its soo cheap and my stock turbos on its way out and i dont feel like repacing it with stock


----------



## Agtronic (May 14, 2001)

I did not read the entire thread, but I thought I'd drop this : 
Seriously consider using better fasteners. Cheap bolts can become your worst nightmare. If they're not always backing out, they'll snap right off when you tighten them for the 40th time. Use high grade studs where possible, with copper coated nuts if you can find them.
Good luck!


----------



## Punchdance (Jun 19, 2003)

*Re: (Agtronic)*

It seems rather amazing that you can even get all that stuff for 600 dollars. My 3071r was 1300 for the turbo alone. Hell, those kits are cheaper than an intercooler for most people. Crazy Chinese people.


----------



## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

*Re: (Punchdance)*

yeah. but the saying is true... U get what U pay for.... $600 cant be quality, but it can be quality enough...lmao. Me, for instance, would never need to hit over 20lbs psi. I wass going to go k04 but see that the k04 tunes are at like 24psi... thats way too high for a tiny turbo. the t3 isnt realy all that huge but im sure its powerband is equalized and running at say 18 will make me more than happy. If i keep craaving more power its prob a better investment for another car. (for me)


----------



## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: (~Enigma~)*

Official Update at the 1000 mile mark: 
I'm still broke but going a little faster than my old K03s could ever push me.
Well, it's been 1000 miles so far and no problems yet, apart from the crappy wastegate gaskets (non metal type) that immediately burned through. Obviously the major component that will probably go first, if it does go, is the turbo. It doesn't smoke and boost builds smoothly and consistently. I do have boost limited to about 10psi, so I know that it will not be truly tested until I crank it up as soon as I somehow put more money together for BT software and fueling. I have been logging some pulls and my stock fuel system seems to have no problems maintaining requested A/F ratios at this low boost level. Does anyone know how much boost I can safely run on stock fueling? I would hate to melt a piston. 
A few have asked what software I currently have and how it drives. I have GIAC X+ and as mentioned, set to about 9-10psi. It basically feels as strong or stronger than spiking that little KO3s to 24psi and then 15psi at redline. Boost comes on strongly at 4000RPM and I imagine would hit full boost (if requested) by 4500RPM, as with any T3/T4 50 (or 57) Trim. 
Obviously, any issues with the manifold and downpipe will take hundreds of heat cycles to show any problems so there is not much to report there. The wastegate is doing fine so far as well. Also, there are no "sealing" issues so far. The manifold, turbo, wastegate, and downpipe all fit snugly against each other and there are no nasty exhaust leaks. 
What have I learned so far from my experiment? 
1. Ebay T3/T4's, these days at least, are not glued together.
2. Ebay T3/T4's do not immediately blow oil through their seals.
3. Ebay T3/T4's are balanced well enough to survive at at least 10psi (for at least 1000 miles.)
Thanks for everyone's support. I'll update the board at 2000 miles or at failure points along the way.


----------



## geminidubberGTI (Dec 18, 2004)

*Re: (TimC)*

let me be the first to congrat I on your ebay success. I'm watchin as I may go this route as well. Does it feel faster with the t3t4 at 10 psi than the ko3? Does the boost fall off at red line? And what are I spiking at?


----------



## geminidubberGTI (Dec 18, 2004)

*Re: (geminidubberGTI)*

ooh page 3 ownage!!!!








anybody with info on me running this setup with revo stg 1? Thanks


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*Re: (geminidubberGTI)*

revo stg 1 is pointless... revo all together is get uni or eurodyne... revo stg1 is for if you have no mods to your car at all


----------



## shook1db (Nov 27, 2008)

*Re: (weenerdog3443)*


_Quote, originally posted by *weenerdog3443* »_revo stg 1 is pointless... revo all together is get uni or eurodyne... revo stg1 is for if you have no mods to your car at all

I would just jump up to stage 2. Stage 3 is their dedicated BT software which isn't that expensive if you already have stage 1/2. Stage 2 only requires a TBE, 4 bar FPR and an intake. . . For 50 more bucks you might as well hop up to stage 2. That's what i'm running and I love it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
I have heard good things about both Euro and Uni but the Revo dealer is closest to me and I went that route. Haven't had any issues with it all summer so. . .


----------



## geminidubberGTI (Dec 18, 2004)

*Re: (shook1db)*

thanks. Do you have rods done what boost you running on your revo setup. Ididnt know that revo was only 50 bucks more. I thought I had to pay the $400 again.


----------



## shook1db (Nov 27, 2008)

*Re: (geminidubberGTI)*

No need for rods on stock turbo. Stage two redline is about 15 paid and spike around 20. It was 50 dollars for me to go from stage two but I started at stage two because I had the necessary mods.


----------



## rockstone (Feb 24, 2008)

*Re: (shook1db)*

how much have you spent already on everything?

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


----------



## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

watching this forum closely as i may be the 3rd to get into the ebay turbo experiment as another is already trying ....so if i do get it now i konw exactly what to get

previous post i was asking for UPDATES with maybe videos.......

by any chance is that possible....just checking out how the car sounds and i would say feeling but not thier to experience it but atleast i can get a feel for what i would be purchasing and what not to do till i have all the parts and softwares added


----------



## Green Jolf (Mar 19, 2009)

Anyone know which seller sells this manifold and wastegate?


----------



## BoostinBejan (Apr 13, 2009)

*Re: (Green Jolf)*

Oh god. We are turning into the DSM scene.


----------



## 16plus4v (May 4, 2006)

*Re: (BoostinBejan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BoostinBejan* »_Oh god. We are turning into the DSM scene.









They think they are the first to try out ebay crap. Meanwhile it's been proven that most end up spending more in the end than they would have if they had just bought a quality kit.


----------



## BoostinBejan (Apr 13, 2009)

*Re: (16plus4v)*

Agreed.
You'll save money if you do it right the first time.


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

I am just keeping my mouth shut and watching.


----------



## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: (rockstone)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rockstone* »_how much have you spent already on everything?









I paid $399 for the Ebay kit, which included manifold, turbo, wastegate, and downpipe.


----------



## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (halchka99)*


_Quote, originally posted by *halchka99* »_ive got a buddy who sells this downpipe manifold etc. If anyone is interested you can PM me

For those of you who have expressed interest in doing a similar build, this person seems to know where you can get the kit currently, as I do not see it listed now on Ebay. Remember though, the only "special" part the kit gets you is the downpipe (which will save you about 200 bucks if you buy similar part from ATP). Otherwise, remember that the "cloned" wastegates, manifolds, and turbos are all found on Ebay by any number of hundreds of sellers.
Also to clarify above post, I spent $399 on the kit and about 500-600 bucks on other incidentals, including tax and shipping, which add up. So total I've spent about 900-1000 bucks on a complete running hardware kit.
Lastly, I encourage everybody interested in running similar Ebay setups to watch as I run this experiment for at least a six months or many thousands of miles. I might have major part failures and would not ultimately recommend this approach to others. Take advantage of my mistakes, if and when they occur. 
My motivation for this public experiment is that up to now, I've never seen any documented accounts of Ebay clone parts. I might find that in fact these are all junk parts but until I do, and it's been documented here, I'm not going to just live in fear of buying "inferior parts". Thanks again for everyone's support.


----------



## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: (BoostinBejan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BoostinBejan* »_Oh god. We are turning into the DSM scene.









You must be psychic, you nailed me on this.







I've owned two DSM's (a first gen, then a second gen) and a 1991 Mitsu Galant Vr-4, which is another type of DSM basically. DSM is about cheap (kinda reliable) speed, so yeah, I'm guilty of that.


----------



## BoostinBejan (Apr 13, 2009)

*Re: (TimC)*

Jealous of the Galant VR4. DSM's are not reliable if done cheap, nor are any car. Atleast not when you're putting power through them.


----------



## Das Bar 2k4 (Sep 2, 2005)

*Re: (BoostinBejan)*

i'm sitting in on this one.


----------



## dlsolo (Sep 6, 2004)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *TimC* »_
You must be psychic, you nailed me on this.







I've owned two DSM's (a first gen, then a second gen) and a 1991 Mitsu Galant Vr-4, which is another type of DSM basically. DSM is about cheap (kinda reliable) speed, so yeah, I'm guilty of that.










Very interesting read. As I use to be a DSM owner ('91 Galant VR-4, 95 GSX, and '97 3000GT VR-4). As most of the scene would go with cheaper parts, it was hard to stay with mainstream vendors. Hahn racecraft was the route I stuck with.
OP: Good luck with your build. As refreshing as it is to find someone with a good review of Ebay parts, I fear this will cause a flock of enthusiast to go and buy similar parts and expect the same results.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (5inchMAF)*


_Quote, originally posted by *5inchMAF* »_
Just remember, if this works out for him, he is a VERY lucky man indeed!! at least use a real turbo.

Yes, most of these threads go something like this..
"I dont know why ebay turbos get such a bad wrap. I've been running my ebay turbo for xx years with no problems. Just so long as you bring it over to a a turbo rebuilder and get GARRETT parts to replace the cheapo chinese ones, you're good. I've been running my setup at 8-10psi for 5yrs and no problem. I'm going to push it up to 20psi after i get the so and so upgrades and we'll see... *crickets* Never a follow up"


----------



## wellDAMN (Oct 24, 2009)

*Re: (geminidubberGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *geminidubberGTI* »_ooh page 3 ownage!!!!








anybody with info on me running this setup with revo stg 1? Thanks


*FAIL*


----------



## 50trim S (Jun 3, 2008)

*Re: (wellDAMN)*

the only ebay turbo i'd have much faith in is a holset and with those to get similar spool and power to a .63 t3t4 would be the hy35, a he351, or a hx35 which you would have to change the hotside
so if that turbo doesn't last once you turn up the boost id recommend the hy35 or he351......since they come off of diesels they are made for high boost and EASILY rebuilt for cheap
here is a dyno from a 1.8t with the hy35 and some info on it
I wanted to go against the grain on this build so I chose a Holset hy35.
engine specs:
AEB block bored .5mm
Wiseco Pistons
Scat rods
AEB head ported and polished.
Supertech Inconel exhaust valves.
Custom tubular header.
Tial 38mm wastegate. 1.5bar
Tial 50mm BOV
750cc siemens injectors
2.5" intercooler piping
treadstone intercooler.
70mm Mustang Throttle body
Megasquirt 2
GM DIS coils.
Custom intake manifold.
02m six speed.
Oh ya, this is in a Corrado.
22psi








video of above dyno
dyno video 
definitely an EBAY turbo worth looking into as you could buy one for btwn150-300 and have it rebuilt for say 200 give or take and have a turbo that can handle as much boost as you can throw at it
or you could find this turbo in the junkyard off of a dodge diesel but im not sure what yr truck it comes on and whether its on the automatic or manual as the turbo's on the auto and manual are different

_Modified by 50trim S at 9:39 AM 11-23-2009_


_Modified by 50trim S at 9:40 AM 11-23-2009_


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

There will be some neat lessons learned and it will not just be from the turbos.
The ebay manifolds will leave your car never running right unless you machine them monthly.


----------



## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*

Not to be contentious, but at least two previous posters earlier in this thread would disagree with you regarding the inferior quality of Ebay manifolds. Its on the first page.
I will not argue with your firsthand experience, but there seems to be contrary firsthand experience out there as well.
I will keep you updated on whether my manifold cracks, warps, or otherwise turns to a pile of crap.


_Modified by TimC at 3:19 PM 11-23-2009_


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## shimmy2244 (Nov 20, 2006)

*Re: (TimC)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TimC* »_
I will not argue with your firsthand experience, but there seems to be contrary firsthand experience out there as well.
I will keep you updated on whether my manifold cracks, warps, or otherwise turns to a pile of crap.


Exactly.


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## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

*Re: (shimmy2244)*

Good luck with the setup. Definitely going to keep an eye on it.


----------



## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

*Re: (shimmy2244)*

can U please answere the question some of us have asked repeadedly....








how is it running on stock tune at 11psi? is it noticeable? hows gas consumption?


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: (TimC)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TimC* »_Not to be contentious, but at least two previous posters earlier in this thread would disagree with you regarding the inferior quality of Ebay manifolds. Its on the first page.
I will not argue with your firsthand experience, but there seems to be contrary firsthand experience out there as well.
I will keep you updated on whether my manifold cracks, warps, or otherwise turns to a pile of crap.

_Modified by TimC at 3:19 PM 11-23-2009_


Oh it will take a while, but it will happen. I have had two of them. I still have one sitting on my shelf in the garage as a nice reminder.
The more boost you run and the hotter you get it, the faster it will happen also. My manifold was straight as an arrow, verified by myself with feeler gauges and glass as well as a legit machine shop straightedge. It stayed that way for a month or two. Then slowly it crept, little by little.
The T25 ebay ATP clone manifolds are actually(usually) a T3 port with a t25 stud pattern and T25 sized studs. 
It will not warp like an A&L manifold comes from their shop stock, but you will notice it after chasing around running and tuning issues for a long time, as they gradually get worse. 
Once it goes on long enough yuo will see the black soot bleeding out below your exhaust ports on the portion of your exhaust manifold gasket sticking out. 
Just like the threads I see about mafless running problems, and etc. A quick "seafoam the car for exhaust leaks"
and the poster never posts again.









Or I guess you could keep the boost at like 7psi on your big turbo, make 225whp and it will be reliable. 
But at that point, you are better off on a stock turbo that makes that 225whp for a better powerband.









What is going to happen here, is there will be a lot of money spent twice when the garbage downpipes, manifolds and wastegates start having problems.

Hell the damn downpipes in those ebay links show a flange that is not true to the pipe itself, it is able to move up and down. You honestly think that will *EVER* seal? 
Do you know what giant pre O2 sensor exhaust leaks do? 
There are not enough facepalms for this.
I was fortunate and the only thing ebay I had was a manifold. I still spent money twice, but now I can get in my car and cold start any weather drive it as soon as it keys on mafless. No excessive engine load etc. 
Bear in mind these two posters have 1000 miles on the manifolds and few heat cycles. 
To turn these ebay kits into real kits:
New.......
Pagparts T3 logger 450$ish
38mm MVS Gate 250-275$
50 trim Garrett 400$
Pagparts downpipe with proper stepped v-band flange you need in a gas application xxx$?
1.5ft -10 line, fittings for oil drain 60$
You could go with an ATP manifold, but really why. You want to toss another turd piece onto the car after an ebay manifold? Hell ebay manifolds are coming stamped ATP now to some folks, which is NOT coincedence, they are probably rolling off the same belt at zhang gong foundry in the jin province.
So take all those parts above and add them to the cost of the 600$ ebay kit.
This is assuming the 600$ kit with the failsport wastegates and turbos don't get stuck or send pieces/bits into your motor. 

Instead of learning from countless other folks real world experience, you guys think you have found something good and are trying something new. 
But what i have seen so far is laughable in that the basics are not even covered. 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...52933

Seriously? That downpipe and flange is going to seal up? So after you spend money and time welding or finding someone to weld it proper, *IF* The low grade metal can even be welded clean, you will be up more $$$ into the setup. 

I also see the original poster(you) laid it against the head and pretty much said it looks like it seals. It appears to lay flat against the head.
You get a double facepalm for that one. 








When your magical manifold laying ability can see a few hundredths or thousandths, I will take it seriously.


----------



## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: (~Enigma~)*


_Quote, originally posted by *~Enigma~* »_can U please answere the question some of us have asked repeadedly....








how is it running on stock tune at 11psi? is it noticeable? hows gas consumption?

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you on this. I am currently running about 10psi on standard GIAC X+ and the power gains are noticeable in the upper range. Horsepower is about 220whp or so? I don't really know. It runs flawlessly, no hiccups, no exhaust leaks, etc.  Gas consumption seems the same, though it theoretically should get better mileage as boost is slower to build than on the K03.


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Paragraph - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia* »_A *paragraph* (from the Greek paragraphos, _"to write beside"_ or _"written beside"_) is a self-contained unit of a discourse in writing dealing with a particular point or idea. Paragraphs consist of one or more sentences. The start of a paragraph is indicated by beginning on a new line. Sometimes the first line is indented. 
.....
To help the reader understand and enjoy it, the explanation or narration is broken down into units of text, the paragraph.

I'm sorry, but it's too early in the morning for me and I'm grouchy.


_Modified by elRey at 8:57 AM 11-24-2009_


----------



## Punchdance (Jun 19, 2003)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gdoggmoney* »_

Oh it will take a while, but it will happen. I have had two of them. I still have one sitting on my shelf in the garage as a nice reminder.
The more boost you run and the hotter you get it, the faster it will happen also. My manifold was straight as an arrow, verified by myself with feeler gauges and glass as well as a legit machine shop straightedge. It stayed that way for a month or two. Then slowly it crept, little by little.
The T25 ebay ATP clone manifolds are actually(usually) a T3 port with a t25 stud pattern and T25 sized studs. 



I too disagree with you. I have been running one for 30k miles. However, I took the time to safety wire all the turbo-manifold studs and nuts, port the turbo to match the size of the hole on the manifold, and lapped both mating surfaces to ensure flatness. I run 23lbs every single day and I drive 60 miles round trip every single day.


----------



## Budsdubbin (Jul 14, 2008)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gdoggmoney* »_

Do you know what giant pre O2 sensor exhaust leaks do? 


run really rich







what else would it do? 
Like its gonna blowed up the engine


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

*Re: (Punchdance)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Punchdance* »_
I too disagree with you. I have been running one for 30k miles. However, I took the time to safety wire all the turbo-manifold studs and nuts, port the turbo to match the size of the hole on the manifold, and lapped both mating surfaces to ensure flatness. I run 23lbs every single day and I drive 60 miles round trip every single day.

You live in Utah. I'd venture to say that you dont see the kinds of road conditions and traffic that Gary sees. This coupled w/ the heat cycling.. Driving in the Northeast puts alot more torture on a vehicle then any place in America. Perhaps this is why this








is a common occurence where I am. Inferior material dont stand up here. Most ppl have learned long ago that cheap rims here dont last
As far as UTAH, they are one of the states not being considered for stimulus money for road repair..
http://www.usatoday.com/news/n...at.me


----------



## Turbo freak (May 9, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Yes, most of these threads go something like this..
"I dont know why ebay turbos get such a bad wrap. I've been running my ebay turbo for xx years with no problems. Just so long as you bring it over to a a turbo rebuilder and get GARRETT parts to replace the cheapo chinese ones, you're good. I've been running my setup at 8-10psi for 5yrs and no problem. I'm going to push it up to 20psi after i get the so and so upgrades and we'll see... *crickets* Never a follow up"

I don´t understand why a reputable parts seller/fabricator is doing here trying to convince people to avoid buying cheap parts, well for all of those, take a close look to this:
"Everything was OK until i turned up the boost +28 psi with a 50 shot of NOS. Then after a few days i ve heard a little exhaust noise along with an increase of turbo lag. Then i though: D amn, my turbo got loose again! I have to remove the entire manifold/turbo assembly again just because my studs are impossible to reach when installed at the engine. WTF i am used to, i did it countless times."
But that time i ve found this:









If you didnt noticed, a close look:









Here a panoramic view, why not:









And the signature:










This manifold was ceramic coated, now you can hardly notice that.

I´am pretty sure this is going to annoy arnold, but i think that even the best hardware fails when pushed to the limits.

BTW, can you give me warranty of this?


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Turbo freak)*

OHHHH NOOOO HE DIDN'T! ! !














This Sh*t Is Like A Movie










_Modified by Big_Tom at 1:27 AM 11-25-2009_


----------



## wellDAMN (Oct 24, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Turbo freak)*

^ After that I wonder If he responds?


----------



## Turbo freak (May 9, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (wellDAMN)*

yea, me too.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Turbo freak)*

He's Gotta Respond. He Can't Just Take Dat.


----------



## Turbo freak (May 9, 2005)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gdoggmoney* »_

Do you know what giant pre O2 sensor exhaust leaks do? 




Can you explain then how external wastegates with a dump works?
Like that or more giant?


----------



## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Turbo freak)*

... speachless... if this was a debate then U just took the floor!
very true that even the best quality parts may fail when pushed to the limit.
Im not saying that the ebay kit is the way to go, or that its quality, but just like any economy brand style product there has been major improvements through the years, and that just because they used to be crap, or because it doesnt say "abercrombi" doesnt mean it wont work. they maybe inferior, but maybe not to the point that it wont be dependable for some. The OP knows this so telling him he is wrong is kinda a d#ck head move. Im watching this post, and yeah I going to buy ebay parts for a build, DP, manifold and God Speed FMIC. Turbo is undecided, and injectors wastegate and all requred lil parts will be quality, because Ive found thats where they cut corners first.


_Modified by ~Enigma~ at 11:45 PM 11-24-2009_


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Turbo freak)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Turbo freak* »_
I don´t understand why a reputable parts seller/fabricator is doing here trying to convince people to avoid buying cheap parts, well for all of those, take a close look to this:
"Everything was OK until i turned up the boost +28 psi with a 50 shot of NOS. Then after a few days i ve heard a little exhaust noise along with an increase of turbo lag. Then i though: D amn, my turbo got loose again! I have to remove the entire manifold/turbo assembly again just because my studs are impossible to reach when installed at the engine. WTF i am used to, i did it countless times."
But that time i ve found this:









If you didnt noticed, a close look:









Here a panoramic view, why not:









And the signature:










This manifold was ceramic coated, now you can hardly notice that.

I´am pretty sure this is going to annoy arnold, but i think that even the best hardware fails when pushed to the limits.

BTW, can you give me warranty of this?

Yes, absolutely warrantied. Those were my first versions of the old manifold. That thing is quite a few years old now. I've since changed a few things because attaching a T25 .64ar turbine housing on anything larger then a 2871r induces stupid backpressures. For instance, that was the SAME exact thing that happened to one other manifold. IDENTICAL spot and after getting the manifold back, realized that w/ the 3076R with T25 housing that he was running, it was reaching over 1800+degs in EGT's on moderate boost levels. He was seeing over 2000deg's after the turbine on anything over 27psi! No manifold survives that over a period of time (which was over 1.5 years in that case). But there was a small change that I made that alleviated that issue. This is not a material issue, like that which can be found in some of the other manifolds, but an issue of allowing the manifold to withstand abnormal EGT's which it has done since for over 6yrs. I know of this one that you posted and one other since 2002. The other one recieved the newer version of that particular manifold, running the same turbo w/ the crazy EGT's w/ no problems.
While 28+psi and 50shots of NOS would've been okay on a T3 type configuration, think of how much backpressures you are trying to overcome on a poor T25 housing. Think about how elevated your EGT's must've been. But, I should've added expansion slots, that probably wouldnt have happened if I had done so, even w/ my older manifolds
Anyways, here is a picture of my other manifold w/ TiAl's first iteration of their .63ar SS turbine housing. After almost 2yrs and the crazy amount of mileage that this particular car (I think the car has over 250k) has endured, this happened. Of course TiAL has since updated their castings and I had this warrantied. Manifold is PERFECT:








Yes, and even the best parts sometimes fail. But the difference is, is it a quality-derived material failure or the case of exhaust components withstanding unacceptable physical limits?



_Modified by [email protected] at 8:38 AM 11-25-2009_


----------



## fobyulous (Oct 7, 2007)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_











might be a "noob" question but could you point out what exactly is wrong with this mani? not questioning what you are saying, just trying to learn what to look for..thanks!


----------



## 20aeman (Jun 8, 2006)

*Re: (fobyulous)*


_Quote, originally posted by *fobyulous* »_
might be a "noob" question but could you point out what exactly is wrong with this mani? not questioning what you are saying, just trying to learn what to look for..thanks!

look at where the studs are supposed to be attached.


----------



## Turbo freak (May 9, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
While 28+psi and 50shots of NOS would've been okay on a T3 type configuration, think of how much backpressures you are trying to overcome on a poor T25 housing. Think about how elevated your EGT's must've been. But, I should've added expansion slots, that probably wouldnt have happened if I had done so, even w/ my older manifolds

Yes, and even the best parts sometimes fail. But the difference is, is it a quality-derived material failure or the case of exhaust components withstanding unacceptable physical limits?




This engine has a T25 housing GT3071R WG with a 90 trim .86 A/R. According to garrett this housing/turbine flows more than a T3 .63 A/R. So the backpressure is not so big. This car can see 32-34 psi of boost at 7500 rpm. With NOS i never run it above 28 psi. Furthermore it has a proper fueling system (software/injectors/fuel pump) with AFRs of 12:1 and a progressive water/alcohol injection with a massive 1200 cc/min spray nozzle, That helps with the EGTs that is always below 900 degrees celsius. You will see that the manifold has a 1/8" NPT tread for the EGT probe in the place of the wastegate flange.
Very glad that you will warranty this manifold, that talks a lot of your buisiness.

Im not sure about the EGTs you mentioned hope you are talking degrees fahrenheit, because at 1500 degrees celsius or more, not only the manifold but the valves, pistons, turbine and spark plugs will fail.

_Modified by Turbo freak at 11:22 AM 11-25-2009_


_Modified by Turbo freak at 11:34 AM 11-25-2009_


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: (20aeman)*

If Arnold does in fact warrenty the manifold for you, then it may cost him out of pocket. But the respect he will retain AND gain will be well worth it. 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif to Arnold.
However, that's not to say 'some' ebay products haven't gone thru a similar evolution where earlier version were 'more' prone to failure and may have been improved since. BUT the failure rate was way up before and is still probably way higher than non-ebay.
And try having one of those eariler ebay versions replaced.
And I may seem like a ... what do you call it? .. ah yes, nut swinger, but I don't run a name brand kit or turbo for that matter.
_edit... for the post above - way to go arguing as he throws help your way.. or how do they say 'bite the hand that feeds you' or 'look a gift horse in the month'_










_Modified by elRey at 12:34 PM 11-25-2009_


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Turbo freak)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Turbo freak* »_

This engine has a T25 housing GT3071R WG with a 90 trim .86 A/R. According to garrett this housing/turbine flows more than a T3 .63 A/R. So the backpressure is not so big. This car can see 32-34 psi of boost at 7500 rpm. With NOS i never run it above 28 psi. Furthermore it has a proper fueling system (software/injectors/fuel pump) with AFRs of 12:1 and a progressive water/alcohol injection with a massive 1200 cc/min spray nozzle, That helps with the EGTs that is always below 900 degrees celsius. You will see that the manifold has a 1/8" NPT tread for the EGT probe in the place of the wastegate flange.
Very glad that you will warranty this manifold, that talks a lot of your buisiness.

Im not sure about the EGTs you mentioned because at 1500 degrees celsius or more, not only the manifold but the valves, pistons, turbine and spark plugs will fail.

_Modified by Turbo freak at 11:22 AM 11-25-2009_

Its not so much the A/R. Its the entry into the T25. Whether its a .64ar or .86ar, this is identical. It gets HOT right there. Think of an hourglass, it superheats at that particular point of entry. Say you're at 1650deg F (I'm not talking Celsius but Fahrenheit which would make it 1093deg C = 2000deg F) at the wastegate flange which is part of the chamber. It can easily pick up 200degs at the T25 port of entry rapidly heating and cooling depending on RPM's. The EGT's at the wg flange wont tell you the full story as it will not superheat or crack there. Proper thing to do is port match at least if you're running such high boost. Also, the GT3071R w/ 90trim is a cutdown 76R wheel. Its crammed in there. Takes up a bit of the space the NS111 RS/2871R wheels do not, so it picks up a lot of heat by physical obstruction in a small passageway.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

*Re: (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_If Arnold does in fact warrenty the manifold for you, then it may cost him out of pocket. But the respect he will retain AND gain will be well worth it. 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif to Arnold.
However, that's not to say 'some' ebay products haven't gone thru a similar evolution where earlier version were 'more' prone to failure and may have been improved since. BUT the failure rate was way up before and is still probably way higher than non-ebay.
And try having one of those eariler ebay versions replaced.
And I may seem like a ... what do you call it? .. ah yes, nut swinger, but I don't run a name brand kit or turbo for that matter.
_edit... for the post above - way to go arguing as he throws help your way.. or how do they say 'bite the hand that feeds you' or 'look a gift horse in the month'_









_Modified by elRey at 12:34 PM 11-25-2009_

This guy is telling me he basically beat the crap out of a manifold that is some years old, out of its intended use.. I must be crazy







. If you want to run this kind of power, RUN A T3 PPL!


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
This guy is telling me he basically beat the crap out of a manifold that is some years old, out of its intended use.. I must be crazy







. If you want to run this kind of power, RUN A T3 PPL!

i lol'd


----------



## 20aeman (Jun 8, 2006)

*Re: (weenerdog3443)*

There is a reason these t2 3071r setups don't make any power. 
Sure the turbine wheel can flow...but it's also one of the most inefficient wheels garrett offers, so you'll have to physically shoot more exhaust energy at it to make boost. 








64 percent max efficiency when the standard 3071 is 72 percent. 
Is it better to have a more restrictive but efficient turbine...where you hit required boost with minimal exhaust energy and send the rest out of the wastegate...or a free flowing inefficient turbine, where it flows more...but you'll have to actually send more exhaust energy through it to make required boost...in then end, you'll hit the flow capacity of the wheel trying to get to the boost levels you want with a bare minimum going out the wastegate. 
The one thing that the garrett turbine flow charts don't take into account is the extra flow a wastegate offers....
or at least, that's my theory. 
I think in the real world, there are lots of dyno charts proving that the t3 3071 is the better, more efficient turbo.


----------



## Turbo freak (May 9, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
This guy is telling me he basically beat the crap out of a manifold that is some years old, out of its intended use.. I must be crazy







. If you want to run this kind of power, RUN A T3 PPL!


Now i dont understand, if the turbo is capable then the manifold is not intended for?
I am not trying to do anything wrong here, this manifold was replaced at least 6 months ago from my engine. If arnold want to replace it as he said, i cant be more happy, whether if he is crazy or not. 
Ive posted here because he was talking about products that fails when pushed.


----------



## Turbo freak (May 9, 2005)

*Re: (20aeman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20aeman* »_There is a reason these t2 3071r setups don't make any power. 
Sure the turbine wheel can flow...but it's also one of the most inefficient wheels garrett offers, so you'll have to physically shoot more exhaust energy at it to make boost. 








64 percent max efficiency when the standard 3071 is 72 percent. 
Is it better to have a more restrictive but efficient turbine...where you hit required boost with minimal exhaust energy and send the rest out of the wastegate...or a free flowing inefficient turbine, where it flows more...but you'll have to actually send more exhaust energy through it to make required boost...in then end, you'll hit the flow capacity of the wheel trying to get to the boost levels you want with a bare minimum going out the wastegate. 
The one thing that the garrett turbine flow charts don't take into account is the extra flow a wastegate offers....
or at least, that's my theory. 
I think in the real world, there are lots of dyno charts proving that the t3 3071 is the better, more efficient turbo.









I did test a lot turbo setups in my engine incluiding: T3/T4, GT2871R A/R.86, GT3071R trim 84 A/R.64, GT3071R trim 90 A/R .86, GT3071R 60 mm wheel T3 A/R.63 and .82 and i can tell you the best one for me is the GT3071R trim 90 A/R .86 i like it very much how it spools and the top end power is absolutely great. Maybe there is more efficient turbos but i like this one.
You said this turbo dont make any power but it was tested at 470 WHP at 30 psi without NOS. I think thats some power.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

*Re: (Turbo freak)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Turbo freak* »_

Now i dont understand, if the turbo is capable then the manifold is not intended for?
I am not trying to do anything wrong here, this manifold was replaced at least 6 months ago from my engine. If arnold want to replace it as he said, i cant be more happy, whether if he is crazy or not. 
Ive posted here because he was talking about products that fails when pushed.

If you were to come to me today w/ the scenario that you laid out, I wouldnt recommend the turbo that you are running. Garrett sells alot of product that is questionable IMO as far as a design/engineering standpoint. The .86AR T25 housings, I think, are for lower boost, high displacement motors which need the extra flow down low, but not necessarily the boost levels up top. They arent very good turbine housings for the 1.8t engine after testing them out on several occasions on various turbos. I think the only turbo they are passable with are the 28RS' as they dont need much exhaust energy to get them going like you would the 2871's and 30's compressors.
I'm not talking about products that fail 'when pushed'. I was referring to products that fail period. When not pushed much at all...
I am also not talking about the turbo, but the marriage of your turbo to that particular housing. If I was to set up a .63ar T3 housing on your EXACT chra w/ accompanying manifold, you'll free up alot of backpressure and just as much power easier and safer. We're not talking about power here, we're talking about conditions that test durability.
And yes, original owners will get a warranty against defects (which this clearly isnt). But I'll cover this one if you want to send it back and you give me your full details so I can see that you are on file.


_Modified by [email protected] at 11:20 AM 11-25-2009_


----------



## Turbo freak (May 9, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
If you were to come to me today w/ the scenario that you laid out, I wouldnt recommend the turbo that you are running. Garrett sells alot of product that is questionable IMO as far as a design/engineering standpoint. The .86AR T25 housings, I think, are for lower boost, high displacement motors which need the extra flow down low, but not necessarily the boost levels up top. They arent very good turbine housings for the 1.8t engine after testing them out on several occasions on various turbos. I think the only turbo they are passable with are the 28RS' as they dont need much exhaust energy to get them going like you would the 2871's and 30's compressors.
I'm not talking about products that fail 'when pushed'. I was referring to products that fail period. When not pushed much at all...
And yes, original owners will get a warranty against defects (which this clearly isnt). But I'll cover this one if you want to send it back and you give me your full details so I can see that you are on file.

_Modified by [email protected] at 11:20 AM 11-25-2009_


I am an original owner. I do even have two of your manifolds. One cracked and the other one installed right now at my engine. I gladly send to you the full details but only by email.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

*Re: (Turbo freak)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Turbo freak* »_

I am an original owner. I do even have two of your manifolds. One cracked and the other one installed right now at my engine. I gladly send to you the full details but only by email.


No problem then, you're covered http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif . BTW, the bottom mounts in all bolted configs are T3's now. So, no more T25's supported. But, you're covered as I have one that I can machine out to T25 pattern


_Modified by [email protected] at 11:46 AM 11-25-2009_


----------



## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: ([email protected])*

I have a tremendous amount of respect for Al at PagParts, as a businessman and I'm assuming a fellow speed junkie. I can assure you that if my manifold fails, I will not be getting this kind of support and warranty from Mr. Ebay. 
The purpose of this thread originally was not to call out reputable manufacturers who have laid out massive cash to create original pieces, but rather to simply to share MY experience with extreme hardware cost shaving.


----------



## Turbo freak (May 9, 2005)

*Re: (TimC)*

I agree with you, sorry for the inconvenience.


----------



## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

*Re: (Turbo freak)*

You guys are crazy...
it's a build thread, take the discussion somewhere else


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *MightyDSM* »_You guys are crazy...
it's a build thread, take the discussion somewhere else



__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


----------



## Das Bar 2k4 (Sep 2, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (hootyburra)*

wow go ebay lol this is cool


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: (Turbo freak)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Turbo freak* »_
I did test a lot turbo setups in my engine incluiding: T3/T4, GT2871R A/R.86, GT3071R trim 84 A/R.64, GT3071R trim 90 A/R .86, GT3071R 60 mm wheel T3 A/R.63 and .82 and i can tell you the best one for me is the GT3071R trim 90 A/R .86 i like it very much how it spools and the top end power is absolutely great. Maybe there is more efficient turbos but i like this one.
You said this turbo dont make any power but it was tested at 470 WHP at 30 psi without NOS. I think thats some power.


You realize you are running 2 bar of pressure to make that 470whp, and it is/was dealing with 2bar worth of exhaust heat?

All of that going through a T25 inlet? 
I jumped from a T25 3071R with the 56.5mm turbine wheel .64 to the T3 .64 Garrett housing with the same exhaust wheel. 
It spools a little later, but it makes more power with less boost and has a tiny bit more lag.
Pressure and flow are interrelated, you can't just turn the boost up without dealing with the rest of the consequences that come with it!

Also good to see pagparts taking that manifold back, and standing up to it.


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: (Turbo freak)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Turbo freak* »_

Can you explain then how external wastegates with a dump works?
Like that or more giant?



Ugh, god are you serious?


----------



## Turbo freak (May 9, 2005)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*

You were saying that exhaust leaks upset WB O2 readings.... 
External wastegates dumps A LOT of exhaust before the WB O2 without problems.
Yes, i am doing that kind of power through a T25. Check that im using a trim 90 turbine with A/R .86 not a very common turbo i think but very happy on how it works. As garrett claims, it flows as much as a T3 housing/turbine with a .82 A/R.
Please let the thread continue with its topic.


----------



## CTS Turbo (Oct 2, 2008)

*Re: (Turbo freak)*

I'm really excited to see how the low budget eBay turbo kit works, most of the time we get threads like this and no follow up info.
Interesting developments for the T25 guys here, I was never a fan of the T25 turbine housings myself. But, it's good to see a vendor standing behind the products they sell, even though the T25 flanged manifold that cracked with the T25 flanged turbo was not due to a manufacturing defect. 
I wonder how many of the other 1.8T guys running T25 flanged 3071R and 3076Rs are having these types of problems, even Don R is running a T25 GT3076RWG and has for years, but he had a welded manifold not a cast unit. There are also multiple guys running the same turbos on ATP kits and modified APR stage 3 cars including 'Wolk's Wagon', surprising we don't hear of this T25 turbine housing back pressure problems more often.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

*Re: (CTS Turbo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CTS Turbo* »_I'm really excited to see how the low budget eBay turbo kit works, most of the time we get threads like this and no follow up info.
Interesting developments for the T25 guys here, I was never a fan of the T25 turbine housings myself. But, it's good to see a vendor standing behind the products they sell, even though the T25 flanged manifold that cracked with the T25 flanged turbo was not due to a manufacturing defect. 
I wonder how many of the other 1.8T guys running T25 flanged 3071R and 3076Rs are having these types of problems, even Don R is running a T25 GT3076RWG and has for years, but he had a welded manifold not a cast unit. There are also multiple guys running the same turbos on ATP kits and modified APR stage 3 cars including 'Wolk's Wagon', surprising we don't hear of this T25 turbine housing back pressure problems more often.










This happens all the time. Sometimes manifolds, sometimes housings. Any manifold in any form whether T25 or T4 w/ backpressures of 1800+degs for extended periods of time will be prone to cracking. APR's have cracked under duress which have been documented even w/ their inconel alloy. The reason why wolks and don are fine are they are using them as they are intended for the most part. Any manifold/turbo combo, when they reach the point where the motor is outflowing them or the exhaust gases coming out of the engine is less then ideal temp-wise will be prone to meltdown. The particular mani in this thread was pushing at least 28psi and 50shot of nitrous and god knows what prior for years. The one that i've mentioned was on over a dozen renditions of uni tunes (basically a beta tester for them) where EGT's were recorded in the 2000deg range WHEN the probe was put on and it was running in that state ignorant of this for well over a year til it gave out after almost 2 yrs. Those are the two manis under some extreme conditions that have given in my camp since 2002. If garrett product, OEM product can crack, I'll allow a couple to crack in 7 yrs under very obvious conditions... As for my T3 and vbanded setups, not a peep...
BTW, if you havent noticed, the mani runners werent slotted, which was a big no no on my version 1 manis. This probably caused the issue. No room to expand and the weakest point gave...
Just happens sometimes in this environment. We are not aware of ppl's state of tunes, if they are preigniting alot, pushing boost.. Hell, I even know one of your manis that have given up the ghost, but I wont blame its construction unless I can test it (I'm sure you are aware).. Don had some of loggers made and they were nice pieces, but ask Mike Z what happened to his... 
Over the years, there have been many atp mani's that have been publicly posted w/ crackage issues. if you were unaware, you just werent paying attention.. T25 housings are fine for its intended purpose, up to 400whp, maybe a smidge over. Over this, i'd look elsewhere
Lets get back on topic...


_Modified by [email protected] at 2:09 AM 12-1-2009_


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## 20aeman (Jun 8, 2006)

the atps crack around the wastegate opening.


----------



## Turbo freak (May 9, 2005)

*Re: (CTS Turbo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CTS Turbo* »_
Interesting developments for the T25 guys here, I was never a fan of the T25 turbine housings myself. But, it's good to see a vendor standing behind the products they sell, even though the T25 flanged manifold that cracked with the T25 flanged turbo was not due to a *manufacturing defect*. 


Hi Clay, as Arnold said the first generation T25 manifolds has no expansion slots. That could be one of the causes my manifold cracked. Im more than happy that the vendor stands at their product. This products were designed to be installed in modified engines and we choose them because they are good (and not cheap BTW). My car is driven very hard every single day and can be considered a test mule for every single part it has. Some companys want their parts to be tested under severe conditions so they could see how they withstand. 
About the running conditions of my engine, they are totally fine. It has all the parts needed to keep it together, like pauter rods, big intercooler, progressive alcohol injection system, electronic boost controller, apropiate software, injectors and fuel pump, exhaust system and the so. It can run at +28 psi without any timing been pulled even with the 50 shot. An engine that is running in poor conditions is not able to last much time. Mine has over 2 years from built without disassembly. Maybe this manifold has some time working, but it wasnt any cool to find it fail.


----------



## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: (Turbo freak)*

***2000 Mile Update***
Well, so far so good. I have crossed the 2000 mile mark this weekend with still no problems on any of the components. The skeptics out there will say that the Ebay turbo (should we call it an Erbo?) will not be truly tested until I have proper software and fueling and turn boost up to 20 psi or so. Perhaps this is true, we'll see. For now I'm at 10psi. 
Do Garrett and other "real" turbo manufacturers really need to charge $600+ for a journal bearing turbo whose design is ancient at this point, when these knock-off units can obviously be produced for sale for 120 bucks (sometimes cheaper). 
Much to my surprise as well, is that the Ebay wastegate is doing fine as well. Remember, these can be had for 60 bucks vs. 275 for the real thing. 
On a related note, I hooked my stock catalytic converter up to my 2.5" exhaust. I couldn't stand the smell of raw exhaust anymore. My local muffler shop did this for me. The small pipe sticking out of it allows me to route my wastegate into the exhaust.








I experimented with a open wastegate dump and all I can say is that it's f****** insane loud. To all those out there going for a super cheap BT build, I say spend the money to somehow route that dump back into your exhaust. 
I'll see everyone again in another 1000 miles.


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## GLI_jetta (Jan 3, 2006)

*Re: (TimC)*

thanks for the update...looking forward to the next thousand mile update... and yeah thats the only way i run my wg... open dump... gets EVERYONE'S attention


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## Vdubed13 (Jun 6, 2008)

Open Dump FTW...


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: (Vdubed13)*

I got nothing but respect for anyone willing to run an open dump. It's awesome in a "jack hammer from f****** hell sort of way". http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## motoo344 (May 26, 2006)

*Re: (TimC)*

You have made it 2000 miles, but you haven't really tested it yet or did I just miss something in the thread. The test will come at 20psi like you said. It will be interesting to see, I hope it stays running strong.


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: ([email protected])*

My T25 3071R-WG exhaust housing is cracked.

It is/was cracking bad across the scroll area, you would not see it until you took the CHRA out, but I bet it expanded nicely under 1800 degree EGT's.
That was the last straw in addition to the warping ebay manifolds that I felt like dealing with.
I dont know what the PO ran that 3071R housing at, because I bought a new CHRA from Garrett. I do know I had it at 1 bar then 22psi for almost a year when I took it apart for hte leaky manifold and the T3 housing I bought from you and T3 log manifold I noticed it had started to really take a dump.


----------



## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*

***4000 Mile Update***
No hardware failures yet. Kinda getting boring actually. I am surprised that the knock-off wastegate is holding up but it is. I am still limited to 10psi though, still on stock fueling so the real test is yet to come. The recession is getting worse and I'm poorer than ever. 
Are there any vendors out there selling Unitronics or Eurodyne software who want to give me an awesome discount on software and fueling so that I can crank up the boost and destroy this kit? I promise I'll post it on YouTube and tell others to only go with quality products like Pagparts and Kinetics!


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## Denniswhat (Sep 12, 2007)

*Re: (TimC)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TimC* »_***4000 Mile Update***
Are there any vendors out there selling Unitronics or Eurodyne software who want to give me an awesome discount on software and fueling so that I can crank up the boost and destroy this kit? I promise I'll post it on YouTube and tell others to only go with quality products like Pagparts and Kinetics!









Goodluck


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

haha im entering into this same experiment. Im getting mine because i am being deployed and the stock turbo is going out so why not get a slight upgrade right? then when i get back ill already have the fuel pump, injectors and software (eurodyne) then ill just run the turbo tell it blows and upgrade to a real 50 trim. I have my own thread going on the progress of this and i will be running dyno runs at around 15-18 psi on the turbo. I went with the full kit with the intercooler kit and everything.


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## Late__Apex (Dec 2, 2007)

*Re: (TimC)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TimC* »_
......... Are there any vendors out there selling Unitronics or Eurodyne software who want to give me an awesome discount on software and fueling so that I can crank up the boost and destroy this kit? I promise I'll post it on YouTube and tell others to only go with quality products like Pagparts and Kinetics!









Can't you increase boost with just a diode & mbc?


_Modified by Late__Apex at 7:28 AM 1-28-2010_


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## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

*Re: (Late__Apex)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Late__Apex* »_
Can't you increase boost with just a diode & mbc?

_Modified by Late__Apex at 7:28 AM 1-28-2010_

Sure he could but he only has stock fueling. Stock fueling + more boost = really hot engine temps and increased chance of detonation. Just a bad idea.


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## pagvrt (Oct 15, 2005)

*Re: (Denniswhat)*

good luck on the bt upgrade


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## Vdubed13 (Jun 6, 2008)

*Re: The Ultimate Ebay Big Turbo Experiment (TimC)*









where did you get that rubber 90 from on the turbo


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: The Ultimate Ebay Big Turbo Experiment (Vdubed13)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Vdubed13* »_
where did you get that rubber 90 from on the turbo 


http://intakehoses.com/Merchan...=CHEW


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## Vdubed13 (Jun 6, 2008)

i was looking for some where local like autozone pepboys napa u know


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Not going to happen...Not a cobra head anyway. Maybe a basic 90


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## Vdubed13 (Jun 6, 2008)

ok ill probably just get it from pagpart i need some other crap too


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## storx (Dec 6, 2006)

*Re: (TimC)*

tim, those knock off wastegates are actually not bad.. the tial knock off are really solid units besides the spring..... being weak and brittle.. so you can order REAL tial spring kit and replace it and you should be problem free for a long time.. 
I know many people who run the knock off tials with REAL springs with no issues for years....also...
i was in a korean shop here and they had someo of those chinese knock off turbos for like 90 dollars haha.. i laughed...


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## arome079 (Jan 28, 2010)

*Re: (TimC)*

Tim,
Great write up bro! As well I have a lot of respect for what you have done here. I do not have the balls to do this to my daily driver out of fear of loosing my job on Monday morning when I call in saying that my car is still in pieces and I ran out of money to finish doing the job I was trying to do... or something along those lines. 
I have had my fare share of disappointments on parts bought off eBay, my favorite was my downpipe splitting in half at the smaller diameter/thicker non stretched/cooler end. 
I think that sometimes you do get what you pay for with those parts, but when it comes to budget builds little problems like that are acceptable. I paid $25 to have a new piece of pipe welded to the SS POS eBay downpipe and have not had a problem since then. 
Had the same problem with some HID bulbs I bought off there. First bulb lit up just fine, second did not even spark... just DEAD







. Contacted the buyer to find that he wanted to have me mail it back so he could send it to his manufacturer. Not sure if anyone has mailed out of country before, but it is a pain the the ass if you only have a 30 min lunch break to get to the post office and take care of. I said screw it and ordered another set so that I would have a backup.
End of the story, you have done everything correctly. If I had done this I would have waited as well to "turn things up." You are below the stress point it seems after 5k miles. If you were to overboost the stock turbo to 30PSI something will break, same with any setup. You found a healthy median and it worked for a small price. There is something to be said there indeed sir. GOOD JOB! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Vdubed13 (Jun 6, 2008)

*Re: (arome079)*

bump this thing... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## jetta PWR (Apr 5, 2009)

*Re: The Ultimate Ebay Big Turbo Experiment (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_congrats on taking the plunge, I'm looking forward to updates. 

^


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (Vdubed13)*

Bump just bought this kit cause my turbos going out on my car....Hopefully will be on during the winter when i park the car...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...2ee99

i am interested on buying that kit, how did it work? http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by alexlm at 1:40 PM 2-18-2010_


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *alexlm* »_
Bump just bought this kit cause my turbos going out on my car....Hopefully will be on during the winter when i park the car...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...2ee99

i am interested on buying that kit, how did it work? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


link no good


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*

this one 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors..._1165
is there any installtion DIY on pics??


_Modified by alexlm at 6:14 PM 2-18-2010_


----------



## boost_addict (Dec 4, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (alexlm)*

what??? 600 bucks. that is so worth trying it out. i paid double that for just my turbo


----------



## dubbin' on Jlines (Sep 20, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (boost_addict)*

should of went this way in november when my ko3 went out the door


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

install of the turbo kit was very straight forward. The only problem with mine is i had to fab up an oil return line and get some new fittings for the oil feed line. The fittings were not the right size to go into the oil housing but i went to a shop and got the correct fittings to adapt to the SS line. The downpipe installs properly to the turbo but down below where it connects to the rest of the exhaust it is a inch or so off. You can pry it towards the other way and bolt it up but i recommend finding an alternative way. Intercooler pipes mount up great and so did the FMIC. Looks great and my turbo will be primed and running saturday. We got a eurodyne big turbo software and are going to be running the 630cc injectors with a MAfless tune. I will post to everyone and let you guys know how POWERFUL this thing is going to be and how well it works. It was 600 dollars for the kit and 950 dollars for injectors and the software.


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*

is it hard to install? in 15 days I start with my build







do I need to buy something else?


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

no installation is pretty straight forward. the hardest part is removing all the old lines and crap. Once the old turbo i/c pipes a and intercooler are out its smooth sailing. I cant wait to hear this thing purr. I also am going to make a dump pipe for the wastegate to make the exhaust gasses go down under the engine bay instead of in to the middle of it. This isnt necessary but i am doing it anyhow. they had forgot a few parts with my kit but the customer service was great and they helped me out and shipped me the parts that day!


----------



## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*

Congrats on getting this kit and installing it. Everybody who paid $2000+ on their hardware kits are going to be pissed if these kits hold up. This looks like the exact same kit that I purchased, minus the intercooler. I had the same issue with the downpipe being off about an inch. The solution I found to work was to install three T3 5-bolt flanges between the downpipe and turbo to shift the downpipe over about an inch. You can take a look at the beginning of the thread of my pics. It looks a little ghetto but now it's a perfect fit with no bending necessary. 
I am looking forward to how the kit holds up to BT software and fueling. Please post your results. I am still months away from saving the 950 bucks needed for fueling (20 bucks a week, ouch). I am still limited to about 10psi and it sucks to have to wait!
Also, to let you know, I have been running the oil supply to my Ebay turbo WITHOUT a restrictor and it seems to be doing fine. This might be the key to keeping these T3/T4 journal bearing turbos alive. 
Keep us posted! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

we are only going to be setting the boost to about 15-16 psi even with the injectors and the chip. We dont want to push the limits of the system and are waiting to get new rods. At that point we will crank the boost up to about 22-23


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (TimC)*

so do you think i should buy the flanges for the downpipe? your kit is like the one I am buying on ebay? how does it feel a t3/t4







I have to wait 15 days


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## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

what injectors do you guys recommend for a daily use?


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

i would go 630cc injectors and yes i would recommend getting the flanges, It just makes the mating of the downpipe to the rest of the exhaust so much easier.


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*

what did you do with the coolant lines?







and is it ok to use de hks SSQV???


_Modified by alexlm at 9:40 AM 2-19-2010_


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

i just made a custom line that runs from the coolant feed straight to the coolant return so it bypasses the turbo. I hacked one of the coolant lines and then attached it to a piece of hose and then attached that to the other end of the coolant line. It just bypasses the turbo and keeps the flow going. For the hks yes it is ok to use but i would get a MAF delete software file or else you will run into problems


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*

ok thx for the information!


----------



## hyperformancevw (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (TimC)*

i ran 15psi on one of these junker kits a few years ago with just a diode and unplugged MAF, never had a problem. i finally blew the turbo but it was after software and a lot of 25psi pump-30psi race gas runs


----------



## dubbin' on Jlines (Sep 20, 2007)

*Re: (hyperformancevw)*

do you have a link for the kits cause i cant seem to fingd them


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (hyperformancevw)*

how long did it last?


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (dubbin' on Jlines)*

there you go
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors..._1165


----------



## hyperformancevw (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (alexlm)*

it never failed on me i sold it and then it finally failed on the kid a little later. i guess it lasted about a year maybe ~10k miles but i had rods and a walbro pump so on race gas i pretty much maxed the turbo out. i know that was really hard on it but it was cheap enough i didnt care. then i got a holset hx35 for $230 shipped on ebay and that is the best bang for buck bigger turbo out there. if you are considering going the ebay route i would suggest the holset right from the start it is very durable and loves high boost.


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (hyperformancevw)*

wow thats not bad at all! for a 150$ turbo, was your turbo EMUSA?


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

how much power can this turbo generate at 13 psi??


----------



## hyperformancevw (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (alexlm)*

it probaby makes about 220whp at 13psi with the right supporting mods like intercooler and exhaust. i had a 4bar fpr too. all the turbos are the same probably made on the same assembly line just marketed by different brands so just buy the cheapest one


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (hyperformancevw)*

hmmm so to get 300hp how much psi do you think?


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: (alexlm)*


_Quote, originally posted by *alexlm* »_hmmm so to get 300hp how much psi do you think?

50


----------



## dubbin' on Jlines (Sep 20, 2007)

*Re: (alexlm)*


_Quote, originally posted by *alexlm* »_hmmm so to get 300hp how much psi do you think?

maybe around 17


----------



## hyperformancevw (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (alexlm)*

about 20psi should put you around 300whp. anything over 20psi the turbo will probably not last long


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

anyone know if the software change will make the car lurch between shifts? It is an automatic transmission and it shifts HARD. I had read somewhere else before that it happened and worked itself out once that cars ecu adjusted. I am very worried but at the same time i know i didnt touch any transmission components. The turbo is working fine. Have it set to low boost while i work out the rest of these problems. Please let me know


----------



## hyperformancevw (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*

i dont have any experience with BT automatic cars. i think the autos are fragile enough stock so i wouldnt even try more power on it. start your own new topic and you will get more help. there is nothing related to transmissions in this topict so anyone that can help wont find your post in here. not trying to be a di ck just tryin to get you help and keep this thread related to ebay turbo builds http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

haha this is a ebay turbo question. I installed the kit earlier and everything is going fine except for the trans shifting funny. I pulled a p1855 engine code as well. This is with the eurodyne bt mafless file with 630cc


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

with the kit that I am buying du you think I can use the k03 turbo inlet? or do I have to buy a new one?


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

no chance of using the stock inlet. you can just buy a 20 dollar auto parts store special and have it work as long as its 3 inches. By the way my problem with the shifting was the software. They flashed my ecu for manual transmission instead of a automatic tiptronic


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (TimC)*

where did you get your plastic turbo inlet?


----------



## hyperformancevw (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (alexlm)*

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/


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## dubbin' on Jlines (Sep 20, 2007)

*Re: (hyperformancevw)*

did the dump tube come with the kit


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

do yo have any videos of your ebay kit in action ?? or more pics of the installation proses or how it looks










_Modified by alexlm at 9:58 AM 2-24-2010_


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

we are getting the ecu back today for the second time. They chipped it for a manual transmission when we have a tiptronic automatic. We will be running in a few hours here. Anyone know what the psi rate of the emusa wastegate springs are??? Im trying to make sure i can run about 15-16 psi on the spring thats in there right now. If not i will have to put another spring in there before we start her up


----------



## hyperformancevw (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (alexlm)*

no i dont have any vids of it. it was only a temporary set up. i just made it all work for the time and didnt really worry with the results. then i just parted my mk4 out and put the swap in my mk2 with an hx35. i would strongly recommend just piecing the kit together because those "kits" on there charge you for a lot of extra junk that you will end up throwing away. intercoolers, manifolds, and even wastegates i would get off ebay but the turbos really arent that good. if you just piece the kit together from ebay instead of getting the "kit" you can save enough money to buy a used holset turbo for only $100 more than the chinese turbo. just my .02 cents.
and most of the wastegate springs are 8psi to start and you can usually turn them up with a boost controller to about 15psi


----------



## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

im sold on this ....
piecing seems like the best idea...but also with the t3/t4 turbo upgrade kit that doesnt sound to bad at all either with all the parts that are included like front mount and dowpipe and wastegate and wastegate piping
its either 680shipped ebay kit 
or piecing together 
t3 maniford w/external waste gate flange 199
hx35 ebay turbo from the diesel's shipped 350 
then of course inter cooler and ebay front mount would easily destroy the kit from above price wise ....
but i actually think just get the ebay kit and when the t3/t4 dies..upgrde to the hx35


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (xrecklesdriverx)*

but i actually think just get the ebay kit and when the t3/t4 dies..upgrde to the hx35
thats exactly waht I am going to do.
guys I am a little worried of the installation, is there any DIY or something?


----------



## hyperformancevw (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (alexlm)*

the original poster has it already documented pretty well. just read this whole thing from pg1


----------



## hyperformancevw (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (hyperformancevw)*

just to let everyone know also i used one of those obx tubular exhaust manifolds and it cracked 3 times. the last time i took it off and just mig welded all the welds real thick and made a few braces for it. i used it in my mk2 for around 4k miles after that with no more cracking and sold it to a another friend of mine and he has ran it on his mk4 for over a year and 15+k miles and it still is fine with no cracks


----------



## ypsetihw (Nov 20, 2008)

*Re: (alexlm)*


_Quote, originally posted by *alexlm* »_there you go
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors..._1165









amazing . . . this makes me wanna buy a cheap crappy jetta with a million miles and throw one of these kits on there for fun
stock turbo for me . . . until the 100k warranty is up at least


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## hyperformancevw (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (ypsetihw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ypsetihw* »_
amazing . . . this makes me wanna buy a cheap crappy jetta with a million miles and throw one of these kits on there for fun
stock turbo for me . . . until the 100k warranty is up at least









thats exactly what this kit is for. sometimes its just not worth it to dump $5000 worth of turbo upgrades into a car thats worth $2000
the ebay kit with a holset turbo, good software, injectors, rods, clutch, and fuel pump still comes in around $2500


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## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

I need just some minor help on kit....what kind of oil feed and return lines do i buy for this kit....like im clueless so if by any chance may you guys explain with major details


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: (xrecklesdriverx)*

Quoted from the first page of this thread (there are pics there too): "For oil supply, I did splurge and get ATP’s regular oil supply kit (about 45 bucks). Attention: my Ebay T3/T4 required a different oil supply fitting than the ones that work on real Garretts. You will need to get a 4an to M10 x 1.25 fitting available on Ebay for about 7 bucks.
If you don’t want to pay 82 bucks for ATP’s fancy oil drain kit with the oil pan adapter, do what I did. I found that ATP’s 5/8” silicon oil drain hose (at 8 bucks per foot, buy two feet) fits nicely over the existing stock oil drain pipe, when you cut it. I know what you’re thinking, but it is not leaking so far. (The stock oil drain has an extra bend in it to cut separately and use as necessary for clearance.)"
Keep us updated. And by the way, my ultra cheap setup described above does not leak, amazingly.


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## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

k so i get the drain and oil supply ..last questiion is it an m10 x 1.25 fit the oil fiilter housing as well


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## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

bump for a quick answer on the oil filter housing


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

1500 mile update. Turbo is boosting strong at 17 psi even. It pulls very hard and is not making any shaft play at all. No in and out and no side to side. No oil leaks or anything. an update on the kit, the hks style bov was crap so we bought a real one and it works now. Also i am having trouble with the coolant bypass and it is leaking from time to time. It doesnt affect the turbo but im trying to find a way to stop it from leaking haha. Turbo seems to be holding up perfectly!


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*

niiceee 17 psi! cool do you have any pics of you engine bay! congrats dude!


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## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

yea pics and video....a big request for me..just to hear what theese things are made of


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bsbllfit7* »_Also i am having trouble with the coolant bypass and it is leaking from time to time.

Remove the plastic Y fitting near coolant res and replace with just a straight fitting (5/16" I believe). Get a M14 oil drain plug/bolt and matching crush washer and put it into the back of the block to plug the coolant feed.


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## hyperformancevw (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_
Remove the plastic Y fitting near coolant res and replace with just a straight fitting (5/16" I believe). Get a M14 oil drain plug/bolt and matching crush washer and put it into the back of the block to plug the coolant feed.


works like a champ http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Bannedfortrolling (Oct 21, 2009)

updates?


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## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (Bannedfortrolling)*

yeah any updates dude?? i am geting mine in 3 days


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## maldos1.8T (Aug 26, 2009)

*Re: (alexlm)*

WOW Awsome thread....there is a ton of good info in this thing. With that beind said it brings a few questions to mind. Being I am not an expert on turbos and am learning more and more everyday.
If you bypass the oil line going to the turbo and run it direct to the return line. Wont that effect the turbos performance and life span? 
What kind of maifold would I need if I upgraded my turbo to a Hy35? And Is there anything else I would nned to change out?
Keep the great info coming guys http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

we arent bypassing the oil line we are bypassing the coolant line. T3t4 turbos are oil cooled only. No coolant lines will hook up to them so therefor we need to route the other ones else where or block them off. I also want to know about the hx35 stuff because if this turbo fails which i presume it will sometime i want to go to a holset


----------



## Budsdubbin (Jul 14, 2008)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*

you can just cap off those lines? I was wondering what to do with them.


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

i didnt cap them off. What i personally did was hack the metal line on the block and attached a length of hose to it and then plumbed that to the other end of the other coolant pipe. It continues the flow like the turbo was there, it just isnt there anymore. I will have videos and everything for you soon. We blew the 09a and it is getting a performance rebuild with an upgraded quick shift valve body and a stronger torque convertor.


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## Budsdubbin (Jul 14, 2008)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*

and the oil feed starts at the top of the oil cooler right? I bet the fitting is a standard bubble flare course thread 1/4" fitting, either that or 3/16".


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## burble X2 (Dec 9, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Yes, absolutely warrantied.


i'm absolutely elated to see this. truly above and beyond.


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## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

some pics of how is mi install doing 
























































































YouTube - golf gti 1.8t t3/t4 first start


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

Two things, if you dont have your front bumper back on yet the intercooler itself might be upside down. I mounted mine with the pipes on the upper part instead of how yours are. Idk if it helps but there ya go. Second on the video, it sounds like there might be a massive exhaust leak and judging from the smoke there is. Its not an exhaust leak its actually the wastegate. When you install the wastegate there is a little metal circular looking flange that needs to go on between the wastegate and the manifold. It took me a few start ups to realize that the wastegate was unable to seal completely because of the lack of this little circular flange. Lemme know if that helps you out


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*

hey, thx for the help, I allready fixed the intercooler







and the the first start was without downpipe so I hope no exhoust leek


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

an update on our jetta. Its running 20 lbs of boost all day long now. Wastegate is holding strong and the turbo is working perfectly. We had to do a full tranny rebuild and it works great now! I have a random vac leak still that i need to track down but its almost been 2k miles already on this turbo kit. Holding strong and boosting like a mofo.


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

did you already put that circular metal thing between the wastegate flange and manifold


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*

yeah, but with that installed I had trouble fiting the turbo and the wastegate but finaly its on


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

ya it looks like they didnt send you the wastegate elbow. The elbow takes the wastegate away from the turbo and manifold. Its very nice to have and makes any adjustments or anything like that much easier. But ya that circular thing needs to be there to seal the wastegate otherwise it will be slightly open and loud as hell


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*

do you have pics of your build? I am having problems installing the downpipe because of the screws :S


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

they didnt send me the wastegate elbow or the right hardware for the turbo so i called them and they sent it to me. You can just go to a hardware store though. That will make life easier i thinjk


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*

tomorrow I will buy some new screws and finish mi bt build!


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## [email protected] (Dec 29, 2003)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*

Its called a fire ring or a valve seat










_Modified by [email protected] at 8:20 PM 3-14-2010_


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

are you going to be using any software or just gonna run it with the stock stuff


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## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*

A Fire ring : explain will this result in the wastegate blowing fore balls or none

And bslift7 I wanna see videos please I here 3 builds on here ad in looking to be the 4th but someone please post what I'm gonna get


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (xrecklesdriverx)*

I whant viedeos twooo


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

haha what do you guys want pictures of. I turned the boost to 20psi for the day but its back down to 17 psi now. I am going to be rerouting the external wastegate to the rest of the exhaust soon. We live in too urban of an area and when we hit full boost its too loud


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## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

sounds perfect to my likings ...post a vid before the new exhaust


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## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

hey guys I have no boost what could be the problem? 0 boost!! :S :S :S


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

check all of your charge pipes. More than likely you have a boost leak that is fairly large. Also it could be the bob not being seated properly and the air is escaping


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

just a question for you guys. Im wondering what the max psi i should run is. I have the stock fuel pump but 630cc injectors. It also has the 4 bar fuel pressure regulator which enables me to run slightly higher boost. I dont wanna run too lean and dont have a wideband yet. What is a safe amount to run on this 50 trim.


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

what software? None? IF the answer is none I wouldn't run it at all. get software and an inline fuel pump and save your motor


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

i have the eurodyne big turbo software with the 630 cc file and mafless file so i can vent to atmosphere. the guy from pag parts said the stock fuel pump was good for just over 300whp so i figured im right at that level with like 20psi or so. What are your guys thoughts. a fuel pump is in the near future but not at this current moment


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

would 20 psi be safe on the stock fuel pump or is that pushing it? I know the injectors are fine and the ecu is fine to accept that but im not positive on the fuel pump


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

anyone know if that would be a safe amount or what to run???


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

run 15 to 18 psi on the stock fuel pump with a 3bar fpr. no more or it will go lean. thats what Arnold from PAG told me when i installed my CTS 50 trim setup and injectors before doing the walbro inline. i just saw you have a 4bar fpr, mine is stock so you might be good to 20psi
_Modified by Big_Tom at 8:13 PM 3-17-2010_


_Modified by Big_Tom at 8:17 PM 3-17-2010_


----------



## dtcaward (May 10, 2009)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bsbllfit7* »_i have the eurodyne big turbo software with the 630 cc file and mafless file so i can vent to atmosphere. the guy from pag parts said the stock fuel pump was good for just over 300whp so i figured im right at that level with like 20psi or so. What are your guys thoughts. a fuel pump is in the near future but not at this current moment

if that's Arnold told you why are you asking


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

I would not run the 4 bar if you are running Eurodyne 630 file. That file is made for 3 bar and is the same file I run. I would not run more than 15 psi until you get the other $150 bucks or whatever for an inline pump.


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: (Big_Tom)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Big_Tom* »_run 15 to 18 psi on the stock fuel pump with a 3bar fpr. no more or it will go lean. thats what Arnold from PAG told me when i installed my CTS 50 trim setup and injectors before doing the walbro inline. i just saw you have a 4bar fpr, mine is stock so you might be good to 20psi
_Modified by Big_Tom at 8:13 PM 3-17-2010_

_Modified by Big_Tom at 8:17 PM 3-17-2010_

The 4 bar will just make him run really rich.


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

i was under the impression that the 4bar will allow more fuel to be squeezed out of the system. Just wanting to make sure on this.


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Your 630cc injectors flow 630cc/min @ 3 bar or 43.5 psi
630cc injectors @ 4 bar or 58psi will put out 15.5% more fuel so your injectors will be flowing 727.65cc/min
The 630cc file is made for 630cc/min, If you put in the 4bar you are then running rich.
Here is an example of what would work if someone was on the 630cc file and didn't have enough fuel.
Say I had 550cc injectors and wanted to run a 630cc tune. I could then scrap my 3bar fpr and throw in a 4bar and make my 550cc injectors flow 15.5% more fuel putting me at 632.5cc/min...the correct amount of fuel for my 630cc tune.
I would just run low boost until you save up the extra money to put a walbro 255 inline fuel pump in. They can be had on http://www.usrallyteam.com/ind...10_45 for $140. I would also recommend the wiring kit, makes life easier when installing.


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

ok we will be getting the fuel pump in the next week or two. that is an inline pump correct? so i wont need to get into the fuel tank to hook up the fuel pump correct? Also checked the turbo for shaft play today and had absolutely 0. We are at about 2500 miles on this setup now and boost has not been lower then 15psi. A video of a walkaround and startup with a few revs is being uploaded to youtube as we speak. As soon as its on there i will post the link!


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6IHaTCRYKY
There is the link to the video. Sorry it was with a cell phone camera but it actually looks and sounds surprisingly good


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

time for another question. Once i upgrade the fuel pump what can i up the boost to without having to worry about throwing or bending a rod. I know ill be pushing the limit but what will that limit be?


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

What turbo again? What size hotside? 300-350tq is the breaking point but continuous hard tq spikes can bend rods. It is all speculation. BT and stock bottom end is just luck whether or not you end up with a rod through the block.
Yes the walbro is an inline. All the directions are there in the box. Easy to do. Def run the 3bar fpr and not the 4


----------



## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

damn i learned so much on this forum i do bleieve its either atp or cts or someone who offers the injector pump wiring kit for 300 somehting shipped ...

props on the vid i was hoping maybe you guys would take it for a spin but hey it does sound decent


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

more videos are to come. That's just all I had time for today. Also is it that necessary to switc to the 3 bar. Its not running too rich and gas mileage is still good on the car. No black smoke at all. We will be getting the pump but for now will stick to 17 psi. More videos will be coming. Shoot some ideas of what you want the videos too show and I will snap them.


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Running rich will cost you more than just bad gas mileage, it costs you power but do whatever you want it is your car. Check my sig I have a 3bar fpr for sale if you need one. 
Figure like this. You spent almost $1000 for a good tune for fueling why throw that away on a part that can be had for $30


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

rodger that back to a 3 bar we go. How much do you want for yours?


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

OEM 3bar fpr $30 shipped.


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

hey guys, i am having an oil leek from the blue fitting that goes into the turbo(drain line), do you know a good ebay kit or something that I can do??


----------



## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: (alexlm)*

I used a 5/8" silicon hose and 5/8" barbed hose fitting for a T3/T4 drain and it works fine, no leaks. CTS turbo sells these, as well as many others on Ebay. On the oil pan end, cut the stock line and slip the hose around the pipe.


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Make sure you put some type of heat wrap around that. If you do not, kiss your whole car goodbye. The hose will melt, oil will catch fire and burn your car down before you can blink...same if you botch this and oil starts dripping on the hotside of the turbo. Just spend $70 and buy a real oil kit.
Edit: good heat wrap will cost you $20 alone (needs to be rated over 1000 degrees) so common sense says buy the kit with the heat wrap included.


_Modified by jwalker1.8 at 10:41 PM 3-19-2010_


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (TimC)*

thats what i did but the oil is leaking from the turbo


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *alexlm* »_thats what i did but the oil is leaking from the turbo 



exactly my point. be smart and do it right or end up like 
http://video.google.com/videop...09906#


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*

damnnn







that suks! http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif help me find an ebay one that would fit mi car plz!!


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...98505 Not to mention the piece that bolt to the turbo looks redic small to me...but that is my opinion.


_Modified by jwalker1.8 at 12:32 AM 3-20-2010_


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

personally I would get a better known kit like pagparts, ffe, kinetic, or cts for oil/coolant lines


----------



## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jwalker1.8* »_

exactly my point. be smart and do it right or end up like 
http://video.google.com/videop...09906#

Wow. That SUCKS! http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
Great song/video combo though.


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Andaloons)*

I'd had a bad experience with the Ebay T3/T4 oil drain kit I bought for about 40 bucks. The fittings were of low quality aluminum that did not look like they would even come close to sealing tightly. For a better solution, take a look at ATPturbo.com, they have an oil drain kit for our cars for 80 bucks or so.


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TimC)*

I am going to check that thx http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif did you guys used all the T s for the sqv??? mi kit brought like 4 of them


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TimC)*

i think mi problem is because the oil drain line is touching the down pipe and making it flex to much and makes the blue housing leak


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

You should only need one tee if that. It depends o. What you tap into. For mine I used the line off of the throttle body but slot of people use the old divertor valve line. By the way don't use the pos sqv knock off. It doesn't open under boost which will increase your chance of frying the turbo. Compressor surge will drastically shorten the life of your turbo.


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*

how do I remove te fake sqv from the ic pipe? what if I buy the real one?


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

the real one works perfectly! That's what I am using after trying the fake one with our setup and it never opened under boost. To remove it you need to get a pair or surclip pliars I believe they are called. There is a c clip inside where the bob sits and that needs to be removed and then the bov will just pop out


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*

yours didn't open?? mine does make a cool sound


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

what does the sound sound like? it could be compressor surge which sounds like a fluttering sound. If it is the high pitched sound the ssqv usually makes like a whistle then its opening right. I would recommend getting an authentic one asap though. But if it is opening then it should be ok for the time being


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*

yeah the hks sound, what I did was cuting a little pice of the spring because the problem with these ebay SQV is that the spring is to hard


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

heres a video of my gti t3/t4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...edded


----------



## dtcaward (May 10, 2009)

*Re: (alexlm)*

why only 5psi?


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (dtcaward)*

i have no big turbo remap, and stock injectors


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: (alexlm)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dtcaward* »_why only 5psi?


_Quote, originally posted by *alexlm* »_i have no big turbo remap, and stock injectors


----------



## nug548 (Jan 28, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jwalker1.8* »_

exactly my point. be smart and do it right or end up like 
http://video.google.com/videop...09906#


wasnt this in appleton??? or did i just hear wrong


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (nug548)*

no this is n Guatemala


----------



## nug548 (Jan 28, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (alexlm)*

not your run but the burning gti








nice little run tho http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (nug548)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nug548* »_

wasnt this in appleton??? or did i just hear wrong









I'm from Green Bay too but have only seen the vid...never heard is was in Appleton. IDK


----------



## nug548 (Jan 28, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*

idk i remember it being posted in the FV forums and i thought i remember some of them saying they knew him or something...







oh well sucks either way


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

Ill be doing a run like that video of the gti today. But my boost is set to 17psi. Now that i have an idea of what kind of video you guys want i will do that.


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)




----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cJCs4AdwYbA


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYsur3ooe3o


----------



## .iDubhXc. (Dec 2, 2007)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*

Is that auto? Something definitely sounded off in the first video when you were shifting.


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

ya its an auto and it has a 3 4 gear flare that needs to be fixed. The guy at the tranny shop has been in the hospital the last week so we are scheduled to get it fixed monday


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## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

why does my SQV doesn't sound in neutral??


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

does it sound off when you are boosting?


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

Here is a video of a 4th gear pull from 70 mph to 100. Anyone wanna know why my turboxs dual stage boost controller is spiking to 19psi or so and then settles and stays at 15.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_rYRdyQ8IR0


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*

yes it dos but the in neutral it doesn't :S is it normal?


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

could just be too stiff a spring when its in neutral. you dont build boost in neutral because there is no load. As long as it is opening in gear that is all that matters


----------



## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*

For those looking to run one of these Ebay set ups, it looks like you can now buy these BT downpipes by themselves (not part of a kit) for under 100 bucks. 
http://cgi.ebay.com/VW-JETTA-G...3bd2c


----------



## speed6GTI (Oct 21, 2007)

*Re: (TimC)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif on the link!


----------



## ricky_vwt (Nov 30, 2005)

*Re: (speed6GTI)*

great, Tim C how is it holding so far?


----------



## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: (ricky_vwt)*

I've put about 6000 miles on my setup so far, but still running only 11 psi. I won't have BT fueling and software, which will let me run 18-19 psi, until about September. I know this is not impressive to the naysayers out there, who have now apparently started posting hoax posts about their Ebay builds. This I do not understand. Anyway, that's my update for now. Others out there are apparently already finding success with these setups at increased boost levels. 
As promised early in this thread, I'll keep the board updated whether it's a success or failure.


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

so an update on our car. 3k plus miles on the setup and still running strong. We are gonna be out of commission this next week. My fiance got in an accident in the car and dented the front passenger fender really good and took the passenger mirror off. Also the people who rebuilt our tranny at AAMCO said they replaced the valve body in the tranny with a better one but really didnt so the tranny ended up frying again and they are stuck having to rebuild it. They are doing it right this time im sure. Its under warranty for 3 years and im sure they wont want to rebuild it again. Also i was so impressed with this ebay turbo that i got an ebay evo3 big 16g for my talon as well. Its pushing 15 psi right now tell i get fuel mods and then it will be up to 23. So far it pulls hard and is doing well. Sounds like ebay turbos have made leaps and bounds in their construction and seam to be much more durable. I will keep an update of both ebay turbos going on this site


----------



## ricky_vwt (Nov 30, 2005)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*

who were the sellers/store you bough it from?It would be good to know cause there are too many selling those, and I`m afraid my luck will get me a not so good one...


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

here is an exact link to the kit i bought and it was bought from the ebay seller speedyracerparts
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ories


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0KcQgx4dUHY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20tyVN0qf-Y&NR=1

Dear bsbfilt7 or whoever. Your car is slow. A 50 trim pushing that kind of boost should be taking less than 12 seconds to rip through 4th.
Basically, your car is probably as fast as a chipped 1.8t
See that video I posted? Watch how hard the speedometer climbs instead of the tach.
Your car also sounds like it is leaking any of the following horribly:
1. Charge air pressure, AKA boost.
2. Exhaust gas, aka that stuff which makes the turbo spin happy and compress that air it feeds your motor.

Hear how the cars in the video above sound? 
Yes that is correct, your car should sound somewhat like that as well.


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

To the negative nancy in the post before me. That sound u are hearing is the sound of the external wastegate DUMPING to atmosphere. Its not gonna be quiet when that happens. The car is boosting just fine, no leaks or anything. We have an automatic transmission and its been having problems. The boost has been regulated better now because of a new boost controller. Next time lets think about what you are saying before you spill your idiocy on to these forums. That video is also pushing 25.5 psi and we are at 15 right now. Im sure my car will be just as fast when i get a fuel pump and change out the 4 bar for a 3 bar. These turbos work just as well as any other 50 trim. The question about these is the durability which is what we are testing in this thread. So please before you try and put these down, do some research or at the very least know what an external wastegate sounds like


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

and for the record we had a stage 2 chipped 1.8t before this and this hauls way more ass. Only difference is when the turbos spool up in the RPM range.


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*

mi motor is AGU and is chiped stage 1 but I have a t3/t4 running 7psi, OEM injectors and FPR.
in 1 week i am receiving I 4bar FPR how much psi do you think is safe for mi setup??


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (alexlm)*

no more than 12


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

I would recommend getting some kind of logger or a egt or wideband to ensure that you arent running too lean. That way you will know what exactly is going on and you wont have any surprise melted pistons haha


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*

egt?? wideband? what is that?


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

You still using stock injectors? Stock tune? If so just wait till you can afford something real. You people who have no clue even what a wideband is have no business touching your cars.


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*

stock injectors yes, stock tun no, why can you just explain what a wide band is???


----------



## dtcaward (May 10, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (alexlm)*


_Quote, originally posted by *alexlm* »_stock injectors yes, stock tun no, why can you just explain what a wide band is???

The last time i looked Google was still working


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

a wideband air fuel ratio gauge is a gauge that plugs into your exhaust system and lets you know exactly what ur air fuel ratio is. if its too lean aka not enough fuel you can blow up your engine or melt a piston. If its too rich u have too much fuel and are losing power and gas mileage. It is a device used to tune cars and make sure we dont blow the engine. An egt gauge or exaust gas temperature gauge is a gauge that lets you know the temperature of the exhaust gasses. If they are too high you know something is wrong with your tune. Read up on those and how to tune your car before doing anything else or else you will make a multi thousand dollar error.


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*

thx dude! thats how to answer! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

ya man no problem im on this forum to help people so ill give information when people need it. i would want people to do the same to me so thats what i do.


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bsbllfit7* »_To the negative nancy in the post before me. That sound u are hearing is the sound of the external wastegate DUMPING to atmosphere. Its not gonna be quiet when that happens. The car is boosting just fine, no leaks or anything. We have an automatic transmission and its been having problems. The boost has been regulated better now because of a new boost controller. Next time lets think about what you are saying before you spill your idiocy on to these forums. That video is also pushing 25.5 psi and we are at 15 right now. Im sure my car will be just as fast when i get a fuel pump and change out the 4 bar for a 3 bar. These turbos work just as well as any other 50 trim. The question about these is the durability which is what we are testing in this thread. So please before you try and put these down, do some research or at the very least know what an external wastegate sounds like

Nice try amateur. 


















There is what a real tial wastegate looks like, you know one that does not flutter and is not warped like a taco leaking.
Your car sounds like it is retarded. Coincedentally not unlike the owner throwing ebay parts at it.
Go find some other cars to ride in that are running right and proper.
Negative nancy is cute. Happy thoughts and positive thinking will make your boost and exhaust leaks go away.















We are all sitting here wondering why we spent money on pagparts, forcefed and other quality components while you ebay champs are posting videos of your lightning fast properly running cars.
Holy crap, you guys sure showed us how that 500$ ebay turbo kit holds up, and the massive 220 or so whp you are making there.


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

there is no flutter of the wastegate at all....... the boost gauge proves that now, the problem before was the boost controller we were using was taking too long to regulate the amount of air going in. that is now fixed and the boost rises quickly to 15psi and sticks there. The reason the wastegate is so loud is because we dont have a dump pipe or anything like that connected. We have the parts but need to get it welded and i do not have access to one. We will be getting it dyno'd as soon as we get the fuel pump and proper FPR on there. Ive ridden in much faster cars than any VW can be and no how they work and why they do. The parts are holding up perfectly. No warping of any parts, the springs in the wastegate are holding strong and regulating boost and the turbo has absolutely 0 shaft play. the manifold is not cracked at all and no exhaust leaks are present. Everyone has proven that these ebay turbos work, the question everyone has is how long they hold up. That is what we are testing in this thread. The car is much stronger with this setup then the k03s running on the stage 2 program. As i said earlier the difference is the powerband has been pushed higher because we are running a bigger turbo. Please before you make any more half assed comments do some research on what you are talking about and actually try to do what this forum is trying to do and help people. We never said it was "lightning fast" we said it was much faster than before. Some people dont have the money for the expensive kits that vendors are offering, this is a test to see if the ebay ones can even compare in durability. All of the people who have these kits and are running them will tell you that the kits dont come perfect, there is slight fabrications that need to be done in order for everything to work right. We never said this was a perfect kit, what we did say is that it is holding up fine, is much stronger than the old turbo.


----------



## NOLA_VDubber (May 24, 2007)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gdoggmoney* »_
Nice try amateur. 


^^dude, I know you mean well, but how can you bust these guys balls knowing damn good and well you were that ebay guy a few years ago. Anyone who's been around here for a while remembers your epic thread.
It's one thing to be helpful by sharing your experiences for others to learn from; it's another thing to stand high upon a throne and bash kids for experimenting. You've been doing it a lot lately and I just think it's a bit ironic.
/drama


_Modified by NOLA_VDubber at 11:03 PM 4-4-2010_


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

i agree with VDubber, we have all the basics of a BT kit even with the ebay turbo, the exhaust is there, the manifold is there. If the wastegate or turbo fails then we will upgrade to a reputable one, but for the time being the kit is working just fine, The intercooler piping fits perfectly and almost all intercooler kits work the same.... pretty much, some cores loose more pressure but they do the same thing. Im not tryin to say that ebay is the way to go but it is working and holding up fine.


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: (NOLA_VDubber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NOLA_VDubber* »_
^^dude, I know you mean well, but how can you bust these guys balls knowing damn good and well you were that ebay guy a few years ago. Anyone who's been around here for a while remembers your epic thread.
It's one thing to be helpful by sharing your experiences for others to learn from; it's another thing to stand high upon a throne and bash kids for experimenting. You've been doing it a lot lately and I just think it's a bit ironic.
/drama

_Modified by NOLA_VDubber at 11:03 PM 4-4-2010_


That manifold lasted.
The T25 did not. You can ebay certain things and get away with it. 
Stock turbo, not ridiculous EGT? Sure have fun. That ebay high flow manifold will work great. Deck it every 15k because it will walk that often.
That was the ONLY ebay component aside from a Godspeed cheap core & kit which has lasted fine for years. 
You live in New Orleans. Your opinion is suspect also.


----------



## NOLA_VDubber (May 24, 2007)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*

I'm not the one opining; you are. I just thought the irony needed to be brought to your attention since you seemed to have missed it.
again, i'm not trying to start anything with you; I'm just starting my campaign to end the hate in the 1.8T forum.


----------



## TheZooKeeper (Jan 28, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Ive said it sooooooooooo many times but ill say it again since its needed in here.....Its cheaper to do it right the first time


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

ok then leave it at that, you have said what you needed to say now let the evidence and other information lead people to do what they want to do. I agree that cheap isnt ALWAYS good. But sometimes it will get you by. Lets drop this and just see how long these things will last haha


----------



## TheZooKeeper (Jan 28, 2009)

*FV-QR*

I agree and understand where you are coming from...Trust me ive been there done that. On with your testing


----------



## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

*Re: (NOLA_VDubber)*

such a good thread and to see haters come on it means were doin our job .... Vw truely doesn't mean one way suites all... It's about trying new things and being creative and expericening your joy in a different factor .... I'm stoked to see success come out of these guys with this turbo setup.. So what if it's 220 hp it's better then 150 and if It can shake the hairs on the hot chick next to you then who gives a f **ck....
Like check this out I can get cheap coils for 400 .. Hids for 30 .. Tint for 100 .. And this bt kit for roughly a full 1800$ with full tune and software ... So for 2330$ that's to me would be a deCent car for a 20 year old kit who pays for every penny on his own .. 
I don't care I seen people doing it and their living up the dreams we all thrive for on fractions of the cost and you would never tell the difference if they never told you ... So advice to all get the cheap **** wit the warranties and use y'all warranties bitches


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## dtcaward (May 10, 2009)

*Re: (xrecklesdriverx)*

im thinking of buying this 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...7166b 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...3c241
im cheep the car 95k on it so im not putting money then what it worth, most of car is made in Mexico for dear god. im getting eurodyne 630 file and buying rods next week i know there will be hater's 



_Modified by dtcaward at 8:49 PM 4-5-2010_


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

And what are you doing for a downpipe?
That manifold choice is the worst one you could have chosen. They are notorious to crack. Good luck


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Not to mention you bought a t3 manifold and a t25 manifold. FAIL CITY


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

AND on top of that you got an internally gated turbo with an external gated manifold. LOLOLOL


----------



## dtcaward (May 10, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*

no i didn't buy this stuff yet, one i can weld the gate on the turbo and run a external wastegate im allso saying i going to put a kit together off on ebay a gt3076 


_Modified by dtcaward at 8:21 PM 4-5-2010_


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Then do http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ories
with 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ories
It would still be best to just buy one of those kits in this thread for $600-700...at least it includes the downpipe


----------



## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*

I would get a T3 based manifold. It has soooo many more options for upgrades than the T25 set up. Just a thought for ya


----------



## dtcaward (May 10, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*

dont see a gate actuater on the turbo but it cheaper http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

*Re: (dtcaward)*

I found this for the 3076R...it's externally wastegated.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ories
Trying to help!


----------



## TheZooKeeper (Jan 28, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Moar optionz

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/me...di_A4


----------



## dtcaward (May 10, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheZooKeeper)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheZooKeeper* »_Moar optionz

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/me...di_A4

can't find a cheap t3 gt3076r on ebay there all t25 so im stuck with t25/t28


----------



## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (dtcaward)*

Cxracing I heard good things about ... If I had my e30 I would of definitely have bought the kit but for future upgrades it could be in consideration


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

_Modified by alexlm at 7:13 PM 4-6-2010_


----------



## Richard_Cranium (Mar 28, 2010)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *NOLA_VDubber* »_I'm just starting my campaign to end the hate in the 1.8T forum. 


sorry, NOLA...... but as long as i breathe, no matter what name i carry at the time, i will spread the hatred and discontent.







its my nature..... because as long as there are retarded people posting stupid stuff about keyless entry, ignitions, wiper fuses, lowering, brakes, tires, trans noises, tint, etc, there will always be someone like myself to jump 2 feet deep in their ass just to let em know they are in the wrong place.
now back to the regular programming.


----------



## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Richard_Cranium)*

I for one am glad you're here Richard_Cranium, Dick_Head, gdoggmoney, or whatever name your evil ass is going by today. I like you for the same reason I like to spread cow**** in my garden every spring. It makes stuff grow.


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TimC)*

hey TimC how did you installed your boost controller??


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (alexlm)*

Everyone is entitled to spend the money the way they want. To me, you're still watching the game, but from the upper deck







. Ppl rocking the box seats can see the game so much better and its so much more enjoyable.
I wished I could've bottled the joy that ensued two weeks ago when, on a sunday, I swapped out an ebay fmic on a proper 3071r kit. He hated the turbo, wondered why ppl were raving about it... It was laggy, no spirit on the hwy. I mean its an FMIC right? We burned some midnight oil, got it done in the wee hrs. Took this camera phone shot midway...








Started the car, closed the shop, went on the hwy. He punched 1st, 2nd, 3rd... Torque steer, nasty torque steer.. His eyes lit up.. "Crap, its never done this before. Oh my god, my car is fast!". We drove home w/ his ebay kit in his trunk...


----------



## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (alexlm)*

My boost control is as simple as it gets. From charge pipe to manual boost controller to wastegate. Hope this helps.


----------



## Richard_Cranium (Mar 28, 2010)

*FV-QR*

my boost control is super simple.


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Richard_Cranium)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Richard_Cranium* »_my boost control is super simple.










I wouldn't use that type ^^^^ of setup unless I got the SUPER DUPER KIT from Ebay user AwesomeRacerDude orrrrr Ebay user GoFastTillUrHeadSpins
They make the best kits...PAG PARTS








Ebay


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

lol we all agree those parts are better. idk about everyone else but im just doing this setup to get by until i ship out to afghanistan.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Richard_Cranium)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Richard_Cranium* »_my boost control is super simple.










Where can I get this on ebay? Is there a DIY to install this kit? Did the ebay header come with the crazy lines? 

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Yes, I have been looking for an ebay twin scroll style header with dual wastegates. I heard the are going for $99 plus $180 shipping


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jwalker1.8* »_Yes, I have been looking for an ebay twin scroll style header with dual wastegates. I heard the are going for $99 plus $180 shipping

Yeah maybe A&L performance could fab me up that real quick. He could do a run and they could like buy it now for 200$


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

I actually do want to see this thing. Cast stainless ebay mani by treadstone


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## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

mi downpipe has a leek i am getting a new one from the warranty


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (hyperformancevw)*

you unplugged the maf? did that help? didn't cause any problem?


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: (alexlm)*


_Quote, originally posted by *alexlm* »_mi downpipe has a leek i am getting a new one from the warranty 

Get used to that.
You are going to be changing them like underwear.


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*

so what can I do???


----------



## NOLA_VDubber (May 24, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Richard_Cranium)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Richard_Cranium* »_my boost control is super simple.

ahhh, now I know who you are. I was wondering who you used to be; i recognize the charge pipe off the turbo, but i don't recognize the twin scroll. that new? Looks sick indeed.


----------



## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (NOLA_VDubber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NOLA_VDubber* »_
ahhh, now I know who you are. I was wondering who you used to be; i recognize the charge pipe off the turbo, but i don't recognize the twin scroll. that new? Looks sick indeed. 

x2 Richard_Cranium - You always have the coolest stuff!


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## Richard_Cranium (Mar 28, 2010)

*FV-QR*

ahhh, you guys have me mistaken with someone else, i am CERTAIN of it.
i JUST NOW got into VW cars. i have always been into Honda's til i crashed my B16Da 18B hatch coupe swap thing with Vtec, YO!


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Richard_Cranium)*

Post a decent pic of the leak in the downpipe. My hope is to document how these components fail, where they do, etc. Is it a leak at a weld? or a warped 5 bolt flange? Thanks.


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## 1.8t67 (Dec 7, 2008)

it's only because dick head is the tubing master!
looking at your pic, i'm kinda confused though. you have both top and bottom ports running to the same port on your boost solenoid.


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Also, how well does that metal piping hold up to heat? That "T" looks like it is right on the turbine. I know you know your stuff so I am sure it is fine, just curious.


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## Richard_Cranium (Mar 28, 2010)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8t67* »_it's only because dick head is the tubing master!
looking at your pic, i'm kinda confused though. you have both top and bottom ports running to the same port on your boost solenoid. 

and yours will be the same way








see, the blue line is not for vibration or movement or anything, there is a MIG tip in there for restriction. lets follow the signal path.
compressor to Tee. lets go the low road first, it goes to another Tee and then to the bottom ports.
high road; goes thru the restrictor and on to the next T (brass on the solenoid). it goes on to the top ports, and to the solenoid. the restrictor slows down/limits the pressure, and the solenoid bleeds off, thereby lessening the pressure to the top ports and making the WGs close or open allowing for more or less boost respectively.
the solenoid gets the same reference signal as the bottom ports, but bleeds pressure for control.
there are other ways to do it, Kevin helps with my tuning and thus it is plumbed to the fashion that he requested and is familiar with.

_Quote, originally posted by *jwalker1.8* »_Also, how well does that metal piping hold up to heat? That "T" looks like it is right on the turbine. I know you know your stuff so I am sure it is fine, just curious.


ahhhh. the SS tubing.... there is actually a good deal of room there (see side shot) and thus only radiated heat.... 
this tubing has a working pressure of 5100 psi. it is industrial stuff, and 1/4" has plenty of give, it wont go anywhere nor will it break. that motor is mounted SOLID, there is zero flex with it.









and in case anyone was wondering, the ebay seller www dot horsepowerconnection dot com is the one who makes the manifold LOL.


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## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Everyone is entitled to spend the money the way they want. To me, you're still watching the game, but from the upper deck







. Ppl rocking the box seats can see the game so much better and its so much more enjoyable.
I wished I could've bottled the joy that ensued two weeks ago when, on a sunday, I swapped out an ebay fmic on a proper 3071r kit. He hated the turbo, wondered why ppl were raving about it... It was laggy, no spirit on the hwy. I mean its an FMIC right? We burned some midnight oil, got it done in the wee hrs. Took this camera phone shot midway...








Started the car, closed the shop, went on the hwy. He punched 1st, 2nd, 3rd... Torque steer, nasty torque steer.. His eyes lit up.. "Crap, its never done this before. Oh my god, my car is fast!". We drove home w/ his ebay kit in his trunk...


awsome al


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## 1.8t67 (Dec 7, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Richard_Cranium)*

makes sense. didn't think of the solenoid as a bleeder. 
and dick head (







) is right, that ss tubing is some badass stuff. what he is using it for...it will outlast anything else on the car.


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Gotcha, like I said, I was sure it was fine. There def is a lot more room between the tubing and the turbine than there initially appeared to be from the top shot...5100psi, don;t think there will be a problem there either, now only if you can get the head to not lift at ~45 psi


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Richard_Cranium)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Richard_Cranium* »_
and yours will be the same way








see, the blue line is not for vibration or movement or anything, there is a MIG tip in there for restriction. lets follow the signal path.
compressor to Tee. lets go the low road first, it goes to another Tee and then to the bottom ports.
high road; goes thru the restrictor and on to the next T (brass on the solenoid). it goes on to the top ports, and to the solenoid. the restrictor slows down/limits the pressure, and the solenoid bleeds off, thereby lessening the pressure to the top ports and making the WGs close or open allowing for more or less boost respectively.
the solenoid gets the same reference signal as the bottom ports, but bleeds pressure for control.
there are other ways to do it, Kevin helps with my tuning and thus it is plumbed to the fashion that he requested and is familiar with.
ahhhh. the SS tubing.... there is actually a good deal of room there (see side shot) and thus only radiated heat.... 
this tubing has a working pressure of 5100 psi. it is industrial stuff, and 1/4" has plenty of give, it wont go anywhere nor will it break. that motor is mounted SOLID, there is zero flex with it.









and in case anyone was wondering, the ebay seller www dot horsepowerconnection dot com is the one who makes the manifold LOL.



What do you mean manifold? I can not just buy everything in this picture off ebay and drop it into my car? 








This turbo stuff is a lot of work, maybe I should just spend 600$ on aluminum brushed trim accents for my MKIV.


_Modified by gdoggmoney at 12:07 PM 4-10-2010_


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## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

i just lol'd


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## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TimC)*

Looking to get this turbo kit and with ordering this it comes with the downpipe but what I need is the other half such as either cheap test pipe an muffler combo.... Anysites to check out ?


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## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

hey guys what do you think about this brake kit
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors..._1161


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## dtcaward (May 10, 2009)

*Re: (alexlm)*

try it, what could happen...


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

yeah, what could happen? It's just your brakes lol. I personally wouldn't skimp on the most important safety feature of the car, but that is just me.


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## Nevaeh_Speed (Jul 9, 2004)

*Re: (alexlm)*


_Quote, originally posted by *alexlm* »_hey guys what do you think about this brake kit
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors..._1161

My brother in law has that on his 97 vr6 (different kit, same people). Works great.


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## Nevaeh_Speed (Jul 9, 2004)

How about some #'s on the ebay kits.. Anybody have any software on those turbo's yet?


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## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

we have a eurodyne 630cc file on ours and are running about 17psi now. We are ordering a new fuel pump and 3 bar fpr and then will turn the boost up more to like 22. So far she is running strong just over 3k miles.


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## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*

any help on my exhuast question?


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

HEy man look you get free zinc with those ebay brakes!








Holy **** sign me up, I get some minerals with my chinese brakes!


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## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*











_Modified by alexlm at 11:15 AM 4-12-2010_


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*

gdoggmoney...you offer an endless wealth of unceasingly funny knee-slapping hilarity but please go somewhere else now. 
The point of this thread is to give those of us stupid enough to try ebay BT engine hardware a place to share our experience and setbacks, where they occur. 
Perhaps you could start a competing thread like "People not like me are stoopid". 
You're much funnier than I am, I'm sure you'll come up with something extremely chortle inducing. At any rate, please do it somewhere else or at least do it here more sparingly.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: (TimC)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TimC* »_gdoggmoney...you offer an endless wealth of unceasingly funny knee-slapping hilarity but please go somewhere else now. 
The point of this thread is to give those of us stupid enough to try ebay BT engine hardware a place to share our experience and setbacks, where they occur. 
Perhaps you could start a competing thread like "People not like me are stoopid". 
You're much funnier than I am, I'm sure you'll come up with something extremely chortle inducing. At any rate, please do it somewhere else or at least do it here more sparingly.









Excuse me? I am waiting too, so I can sell all my overpriced parts when you guys crack the code and are making reliable leak free big power on these quality ebay parts we are being shown here.
Come on guys you are so close!


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## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*

You guys are straight a.s.s h.o.l.e.s. ..... rather then bash on people why not help them into making a product no one thought could work actually work ... So what they didn't spend and arm and leg on reassuring product but atleast we can fix the errors that aren't reassuring and so far we have a wastegate gaskest and spring cuts and these turbos will go ... It's proven for 8 miles so far and the number is still going higher and only reason numbers are low is only Cause were getting present day info and not payed drivers....
And to those who still like the kit if this turbo goes
we already have a hx35 option to turn to for a minimal cost


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## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

*Re: (xrecklesdriverx)*

And didn't they explain the downpipe gasket before ... I wouldn't consider that an error just a minor fix with correct style gasket


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## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

hey guys look what i found
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors..._1165
do you think that would make the turbo to load at less rpm?


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## hyperformancevw (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (alexlm)*

the only thing is if you did want to try that thrust bearing by the time you buy it and the ebay turbo you are already at the cost of an hx35 or more. just something to think about. i really suggest getting an hx or hy35 from the beginning. ebay turbos are proven to fail, holsets are proven to last. price in the same ball park so why not? also do yourself a favor and get the biggest front mount on ebay and not the smaller one, they dont support power much over a t3 super 60.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: (hyperformancevw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hyperformancevw* »_the only thing is if you did want to try that thrust bearing by the time you buy it and the ebay turbo you are already at the cost of an hx35 or more. just something to think about. i really suggest getting an hx or hy35 from the beginning. ebay turbos are proven to fail, holsets are proven to last. price in the same ball park so why not? also do yourself a favor and get the biggest front mount on ebay and not the smaller one, they dont support power much over a t3 super 60.


If any of you were smart you would listen to this guy. 
Then you still have to address the issues with the crappy iron castings on the manifold and crappy chinese iron wastegates.
You will be cutting them regularly. Any other ebay hardware is likely to warp more often than the enterprise.
But once you guys figure the secrets out to solve that, I am right here ready to dump this overpriced pagparts garbage and stupid 3071R Garrett turbo that has survived a few catastrophes. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gdoggmoney* »_ebay hardware is likely to warp more often than the enterprise.

That is some QUALITY sig material right there! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (Andaloons)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Andaloons* »_
That is some QUALITY sig material right there! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
 Beat me to it..


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## hyperformancevw (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*

ran an ebay mani and wastegate for 3 years no problems. dont use a gasket at all on the turbo just on the head and thats it. dont put a gasket on the wastegate either, let the fire ring seal it. also use quality stainless hardware and you will be fine i beat the hell out of it(had it glowing red) and never had a sealing issue even when it was started cold. the main problem is ebay supplies you with gaskets that couldnt hold up any better than cardboard.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: (hyperformancevw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hyperformancevw* »_ran an ebay mani and wastegate for 3 years no problems. dont use a gasket at all on the turbo just on the head and thats it. dont put a gasket on the wastegate either, let the fire ring seal it. also use quality stainless hardware and you will be fine i beat the hell out of it(had it glowing red) and never had a sealing issue even when it was started cold. the main problem is ebay supplies you with gaskets that couldnt hold up any better than cardboard.


I had an ebay clone ATP manifold, and it constantly warped. Maybe due to the fact I daily drive my car and beat the absolute snot out of it, but yeah it constantly warped.
I ran it gasketless, and gasketful with a proper stainless gasket. No change. 
I would not trust an ebay wastegate, god forbid it gets stuck shut, or something happens.
2nd time, it went on with nordlocs and jet nuts. All torqued evenly, all around.
Still warped. It came off, and quality bits went on. End of warping problems.


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## hyperformancevw (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*

luck of the draw i guess...


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: (hyperformancevw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hyperformancevw* »_luck of the draw i guess...


Something like that.
I think the stress of differing heat cycles pushes metal a lot harder than something that is run at the track then parked or driven occasionally and beat on then parked.
Day in day out, I drive it, sit in traffic, heatsoak, WOT boost, glowing red, cool off, traffic heatsoak, repeat.
Then start fudging the ambient temperatures for seasons, and so forth.
Of course that could be all the booze I just drank talking because I dont have any supporting logic or information.


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*

one of my customers doing a VRT is experimenting too. I reluctanctly will work w/ this one w/ a disclaimer...
















































Last but not least... This is my relocation of the wastegate flange. But after drilling, I couldnt believe how thin these things are. With the obvious porosity and crap casting, this is an accident waiting to happen. NICE stuff. Goes to show that the quality is sometimes beneath the surface.


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## hyperformancevw (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: ([email protected])*

i agree it is not a quality part, but we have been running an ebay vr6 mani on a friend of mines and havent had any trouble with it. this car is his daily driver. we beat it up constantly and for the last 4 months have had a holset hx52 on it @20psi with no bracing at all and its still holding up fine. i agree for someone who cant do their own work or wants a completely trouble free set up, then yea buy a quality manifold. If you just want a fun cheap car to beat up then just buy ebay junk with a good turbo and have fun. if it breaks, who cares you paid $120 for the manifold. we built the vr on a budget and havent had any trouble with it except eating a transmission but that is expected with a full weight mk3 jetta with drag radials.


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

*Re: (hyperformancevw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hyperformancevw* »_i agree it is not a quality part, but we have been running an ebay vr6 mani on a friend of mines and havent had any trouble with it. this car is his daily driver. we beat it up constantly and for the last 4 months have had a holset hx52 on it @20psi with no bracing at all and its still holding up fine. i agree for someone who cant do their own work or wants a completely trouble free set up, then yea buy a quality manifold. If you just want a fun cheap car to beat up then just buy ebay junk with a good turbo and have fun. if it breaks, who cares you paid $120 for the manifold. we built the vr on a budget and havent had any trouble with it except eating a transmission but that is expected with a full weight mk3 jetta with drag radials. 

I understand that. A broken performance part isnt the end of the world. It can be frustrating at times, but the earth isnt going to stop revolving. Anywhow, the customer has a cheap, junk manifold between the engine and a brand new fully loaded GT35R. I cant guarantee, from what I'm seeing, that a piece of this manifold wont break off and do what shrapnel does to spinning turbine wheels. I dont think the poor college kids or the guy that delivers pizzas are going to like their $200 ebay turbos blowing up either. I've seen more then my share of these. The more I see, the more it becomes apparent to me that car building w/ a thirld world country mentality is alive and well








Ppl have no idea how the marriage of these parts really work. There's no way that this manifold is going to be doing its job over the years. There are going to be leaks. It will always be susceptible to crackage both internally and externally. The guys that cant get their cars running right are the guys that have leaks all over the place because they're simply not using the right stuff for the job, etc etc... Its not just about catastrophic failure. Its also the little things that keep a system a system..
As I was welding this manifold, good quality castings usually have a nice even sound to it w/o much drama. This one was popping alot. Needed to go over a few as the beads developed some splitting...


_Modified by [email protected] at 11:07 AM 4-18-2010_


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## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_The guys that cant get their cars running right are the guys that have leaks all over the place because they're simply not using the right stuff for the job, etc etc... Its not just about catastrophic failure. Its also the little things that keep a system a system..


cts kit, apr fmic piping done right. i havent had a problem with leaks or failure to anything yet


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*


_Quote, originally posted by *weenerdog3443* »_
cts kit, apr fmic piping done right. i havent had a problem with leaks or failure to anything yet

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

no experimenting here. if i ever touch a 1.8t or a VR6 again. Another PAG Parts system is going on the car. that goes without question. same for Software Eurodyne all the way.


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (boosted b5)*


_Quote, originally posted by *boosted b5* »_no experimenting here. if i ever touch a 1.8t or a VR6 again. Another PAG Parts system is going on the car. that goes without question. same for Software Eurodyne all the way.

Hehe, thanks Brett. I'm not trying to sell anything. This is an information thread. You'll get guys that buy these things and report after a very short period of mild useage. I've driven smoking on-the-verge turbos for months as well. Turbos chipped teeth and they would hold. Go beyond a certain point and its a quick death. But as there are details to some experiences, there are also other truths that are outlined by pictures that tell a different story.
Here is another cheapy mani and a properly mfr'ed one..


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## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

some of those pictures remind me of cheap ar$e manifolds being peddled about.. one of which had smears of chemical filler to try and hide the porosity!!! i kid you not
some people will sell any old **** for a buck wont they.
buy cheap buy twice is a saying we have here
if you dont mind fitting yourself and doing it over, then cheap parts and your own free labour has its appeal i guess. when parts fall out of the porosity on the castings and damage your nice new turbo however, the smiles dissapear and reality sets in.
buyer beware, and you go in eyes wide open when you choose these cheaper parts of dubious quality
good luck i say


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## hyperformancevw (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
I understand that. A broken performance part isnt the end of the world. It can be frustrating at times, but the earth isnt going to stop revolving. Anywhow, the customer has a cheap, junk manifold between the engine and a brand new fully loaded GT35R. I cant guarantee, from what I'm seeing, that a piece of this manifold wont break off and do what shrapnel does to spinning turbine wheels.


i completely agree with that. if i were buying a new gt35r then i wouldnt even think about an ebay manifold. on the other hand, holset hx52 can be had for around $150 and then couple that to the ebay mani, you have a really cheap option to make good power on the vr. i agree this option is NOT for everyone and to be honest if anyone is considering relying on an ebay turbo i would say dont do it even on a weekend car. the only way i feel comfortable using the manifold is because it is a lot less technical than a turbocharger and essentially a chunk of steel so its harder for low quality to be a concern. Al you have good quality parts and from what i can tell stand behind what you do. if the mani ever fails, i will report it here so we have the info. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

There is enough challenge and time spent getting your big turbo monster just running right when it is leak free, and sealed 100%
I think another divide here is a lot of people do not have sensitive feet or butts.
This means you do not care what your car feels like at anything BUT wot.
I demand perfection. Daily drivable at every part of the pedal under every condition, cold start warm start etc.
Ebay parts undermine that from the get go, and there is nothing good about a polished turd.
All those little leaks and problems add up to a poor ownership, driving, and "tuning" experience.
Popping, stuttering here/there, rich/lean induced misfires. 
You are not going to be able to tune anything right if it is leaking.
I remember seeing videos of some 500hp Turbo VR6 24v basically stalling on the dyno after making a pass.... what kind of crap is that?
Why bother posting a video if you can not even get the damn thing to idle after making a power pass? 
Back to the drawing board there too.


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## hyperformancevw (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (hyperformancevw)*

doesnt leak at all with no gaskets on the turbo or wasegate







like i said he drives the car everywhere, runs like a stock vr off boost, spools around 4800 rev to 7200. there are no stumbles or misfires. if it leaks or breaks i will let everyone know but until then we will keep trying to kill it. not bad for a $300 turbo/mani that is capable of 50psi and 800whp. to each his own but as long as it works, we arent going to change it. if it cracks in 2 years and destroys the turbo, oh well its only $300 and you are right back at it. also a customer of mine just blew a japanese gt2871r on a 2.0 turbo with only putting around 10k miles on it. paid $1200 for that thing so yea that sucks pretty bad. he had a quality feed line with a filter too. if it was a $200 holset, oh well just get another one.


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## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

how much boost are you guys geting in 1st gear? I am geting like 8 psi and I whant more LOL


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## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

*Re: (alexlm)*

Right now I'm holding 15 psi strong with my ebay turbo. Have been for around 1600 miles! After 3000 miles and "if" no problems, I'm going to push it up to 22 psi. Keep fingers crossed!


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (GloryFreak)*

do you have the stock acceleration body house?


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## hyperformancevw (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (alexlm)*

run a tighter spring in the wastegate


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## T.D.B. (Aug 11, 2009)

*Re: (hyperformancevw)*

Congratulations! By purchasing a bunch of Chinese bootleg crap you are damaging our economy and improving theirs even further! 
It is a pretty well known fact that the Chinese steal intellectual property from legit companies that do the proper R&D, they steal resources and land from Africans, and they pay their employees next to nothing and force them to work in horrible conditions. This is how the price to you is kept lower. It’s a pretty simple concept to get your head around. 
The final goods ARE of lesser quality - that is indisputable. Not only that... You are also supporting the harmful Chinese bootleg manufacturing system and stealing from the legit companies that truly put in the work to make the REAL products. Hope your crappy running turbo build was worth it. 
http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## .iDubhXc. (Dec 2, 2007)

*Re: (T.D.B.)*

Hmm I thought even Garrett was selling out and shutting down their last remaining US plant to move operations over to China and continue down in Mexico. Thought there was a whole big post on that not too long ago. Maybe that was Turbonetics? Idk, it one of the major companies at least.


----------



## Bannedfortrolling (Oct 21, 2009)

I believe its garrett.


----------



## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: (T.D.B.)*

Yeah, they bought and will be manufacturing Volvos soon. This must really disturb you, you racist, xenophobic asswipe.


----------



## Vee-Dubber-GLI (Nov 27, 2006)

*Re: (T.D.B.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *T.D.B.* »_Congratulations! By purchasing a bunch of Chinese bootleg crap you are damaging our economy and improving theirs even further! 
It is a pretty well known fact that the Chinese steal intellectual property from legit companies that do the proper R&D, they steal resources and land from Africans, and they pay their employees next to nothing and force them to work in horrible conditions. This is how the price to you is kept lower. It’s a pretty simple concept to get your head around. 
The final goods ARE of lesser quality - that is indisputable. Not only that... You are also supporting the harmful Chinese bootleg manufacturing system and stealing from the legit companies that truly put in the work to make the REAL products. Hope your crappy running turbo build was worth it. 
http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


While his post is OT, it is an interesting point on the dark side of globalization; while worded harshly, it still rings true in some aspects though the quality issue is much like what Japanese products were considered during the 1930's and 1940's, but are improving.


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: (T.D.B.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *T.D.B.* »_Congratulations! By purchasing a bunch of Chinese bootleg crap you are damaging our economy and improving theirs even further! 
It is a pretty well known fact that the Chinese steal intellectual property from legit companies that do the proper R&D, they steal resources and land from Africans, and they pay their employees next to nothing and force them to work in horrible conditions. This is how the price to you is kept lower. It’s a pretty simple concept to get your head around. 
The final goods ARE of lesser quality - that is indisputable. Not only that... You are also supporting the harmful Chinese bootleg manufacturing system and stealing from the legit companies that truly put in the work to make the REAL products. Hope your crappy running turbo build was worth it. 
http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif



They do not get it. Same kind of people who do not mind talking to a scripted indian guy in chennai for their dell support and eat up those 500$ PC's like candy.


----------



## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

forget what everyone else is saing we got GLORYFREAK on here with rods and all supporting mods and all fuel software and is sooon gonna put this turbo to 22 .... now its time for this thing to hold its own or blow its own but well see......i still beleive its gonna hold its own with no problems despite what the critics say


----------



## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

*Re: (xrecklesdriverx)*

Thanks xrecklesdriverx, I know people will hate all over the internet...it's just their nature I guess. I have all 100% quality parts with the exception of my turbocharger. I use to have a Garrett T3/T4 50 trim but I guess it was getting older or something and the turbine wheel snapped in two (even high paying quality parts can fall apart sometimes). I really didn't have the money to buy a new Garrett so I took a chance and bought a Godspeed T3/T4 50 trim off of ebay. I'm not saying this turbo is perfect, but I like trying new things and making my own assumptions on things. Here is a video I took today driving around my home town. *** Special note, this isn't a Unitronic stage 3 file, it's the stage 2+ with 380cc injectors. I will have the Stage 3 file in about 2 weeks hopefully and while I'm sending the ECU up to Unitronic to have it tuned, that's when I'm throwing my other wastegate spring in to boost 22 psi.


----------



## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

*Re: (GloryFreak)*

Sorry about the very short video to guys. It's kinda hard to hold the camera, steer, and shift and the same time. I need to get a friend to hold the camera and do like a 0-140 mph kick, lol


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

So your plan is to boost 22psi on a 50 trim with 380 injectors and uni stage 3?


----------



## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*

No, the reason I have the 380cc injectors in right now is because my ecu is still tuned for the Unitronics stage 2+ (380cc k04 file). I will have my 630cc injectors and the 630cc file loaded in hopefully 2 weeks. If anyone questions my 380's, talked with unitronic and explained my situation (when I 1st put on the T3/T4 in September 09), and they said the 380s were good up to 400 hp. Thats probablly the biggest reason I haven't upped the boost yet. Then again, the car is strong as hell with 15 psi with the stage 2+ file and the 380s. I've ran the absolute dog piss outta my car since september. Only put in rods about a month ago. I'm honestly surprised that I didn't throw a rod myself...Then again, Volkswagen never ceases to amaze me.


----------



## hyperformancevw (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (T.D.B.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *T.D.B.* »_Congratulations! By purchasing a bunch of Chinese bootleg crap you are damaging our economy and improving theirs even further! 
It is a pretty well known fact that the Chinese steal intellectual property from legit companies that do the proper R&D, they steal resources and land from Africans, and they pay their employees next to nothing and force them to work in horrible conditions. This is how the price to you is kept lower. It’s a pretty simple concept to get your head around. 
The final goods ARE of lesser quality - that is indisputable. Not only that... You are also supporting the harmful Chinese bootleg manufacturing system and stealing from the legit companies that truly put in the work to make the REAL products. Hope your crappy running turbo build was worth it. 
http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


dude im not trying to start a battle here but you probably purchase a lot more chinese stuff than you realize. there is no way you can get through a normal life these days without buying something chinese unless you are amish or something. go into wal-mart and buy anything while riding your high horse and tell yourself its not chinese and you are a good little american. i agree its sad but there is nothing the average person can do about it but thats a whole different topic so lets not get this locked up and move on. yes it is a black market chinese turbo, but we are just trying to see what it can do the end.


----------



## djGolfGTI (Oct 29, 2001)

ive been running a 3" ebay catless downpipe for about 5 years now and haven't had one issue with it. good luck with your build.


----------



## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (GloryFreak)*

videos sick cant wait to see the 22psi


----------



## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (xrecklesdriverx)*

Thanks, wish it was a longer and better video. Sending off ECU hopefully 1st week in May...then 22 psi


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

mi car is doing something strange, when I start boosting more than 10 psi i feels like the power is not entering into the throtel body, could it be because I have the stock acceleration body house?


----------



## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

*Re: (alexlm)*

what's your list of mods? Check for valcum/boost leaks. You have a MBC on stock N75? IM for more help and I'll try my best to help ya fix the issue!


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (GloryFreak)*

thx dude, actually I have:
3.0 downpipe to 2.5 exhaust 
supersprint exhaust
4 bar fpr
forge turbo tip
FMIC
and I have the MBC installed into the n75, that gives problems?? 
thx 4 the help


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

i think you are supposed to remove the n75 but keep it plugged into its pigtail. Then you plug in the mbc into the two vac lines that went to the n75 before. I did this on my setup and am having no boost problems whatsoever.


----------



## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

*Re: (alexlm)*

I'm with bsbllfit7. Run the 2 lines that "suppose" to go to your N75 to the MBC. You still have the electrical connector connected to the N75 and still have the N75 pluged into the tip. Line from charge pipe to mbc in, line from mbc (to wastegate) goes to wastegate. Here is a pic from the 1.8t technical forum that should help a bit hopefully!


----------



## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

*Re: (GloryFreak)*

One thing I forgot to mention (idiot me). Make sure you plug up the 2 rubber lines you disconnected from the N75. Either that or remove the N75 from the TIP (leaving it's electrical connector plugged into the N75) and zip tie it up away from moving parts and such <----that's how I have mine but it's just a suggestion.


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

thx guys, am going to try that tomorrow, and I am going to post a 14 psi video XD


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

haha for everyone to know i was just challenged to race by a "fully built" b20. The guy said its pushing just over 200whp. And he is wanting to race against the jetta at 18 psi. Its funny what these ***** folks think there cars can do.


----------



## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*

Don't be surprised if that B20 gets you off the line, they have ALOT of torque...then again I don't think he will win the race though. VeeDub FTW!


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

oh i wouldnt be surprised off the line, they have much more low end torque, then the turbo lag is up and they are smelling the sweet smell of a jettas exhaust


----------



## hyperformancevw (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*

if its b20 vtec you will have your hands full especially if he can drive


----------



## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

*Re: (hyperformancevw)*

My buddy has a 95 civic with b20 block and b16 vtec head. That thing has some torque.


----------



## shazim (Mar 1, 2010)

*Re: The Ultimate Ebay Big Turbo Experiment (TimC)*

hi did you put on your down pipe from the bottom of the car or through the top?


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

i put my downpipe on from on top through the engine bay. I believe i already had it connected to the rest of the exhaust though if i can remember correctly


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

thx for the help guys that solved the problem XD, how much psi do you boost on 1st gear?


----------



## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

*Re: (alexlm)*

Depends on your setup. Rods, software, injectors...etc. Since mine isn't tuned properly yet, I'm only boosting 15 psi in all gears to be safe.


----------



## midwest dubin (Feb 18, 2008)

Would that kit work with a neuspeed chip. Other than injecters and fpr what else would I need? If I spike at 18ish and fall to 11ish with my ko3s is that what the 50trim would run at? Help


----------



## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

*Re: (midwest dubin)*

Not to familiar with neuspeed chips. I would highly recommend either unitronic or eurodyne personally. Search the vortex for people running 50 trims with neuspeed chips.


----------



## Richard_Cranium (Mar 28, 2010)

*FV-QR*

i like pringles for chips.
also, i like salt and vinegar chips. the best thing to do, put a big mouthful in and then try and mouth-breathe a big huge deep breath. spew chips everywhere... its cool.
and hey, bsbllfit..... if you want to race some honda cars in Salem (i live here also) i will get you in touch with one or three..... there are kids that build cookie cutter POS's and then there are others that build straight up cars.
this is a Salem local daily driven car, you may have seen it around. it has a nicer paint job now. many a muscle car has felt shame at the hands of this car. as well as many others. and it runs complete with huge ass speaker box and all.....


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

havent seen that one around here. The one i was talking about is a non boosted b20 but has a FMIC just for looks haha! Talk about rice!


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (GloryFreak)*

do you have stock rods??? aren't stock rods safe until 300hp and 300tq??


----------



## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

*Re: (alexlm)*

Nope, I installed Brute rods myself about 3 weeks ago.


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (GloryFreak)*

nicee, i need to get those for mine







why are you at 15 psi???


----------



## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

*Re: (alexlm)*

Cause I'm runing unitronics stage 2+ software. I don't have the stage 3 yet, plus when I did my rods, I deleted my sai pump. Doing that will throw a some readyness codes. Can't log fuel trims with the readyness codes so I'm worried that if I increase boost, It might run lean. Better safe than sorry.


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (GloryFreak)*

yeah its better to be careful http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif, is it posible to know if I am running lean or something with vag com??


----------



## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

*Re: (alexlm)*

Block 032 - Oxygen Sensor Control Learned Values
- Go to Block 032. Field 1 represents the fuel trim at idle (additive) and Field 2 represents the fuel trim at part load (multiplicative), i.e., while driving. The value should be between -10 and +10% (negative indicates the engine is running rich and positive indicates the engine is running lean).


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (GloryFreak)*

cool thats going to be very useful, how do I enter into block32?? I am a new to this vag-com thing LOL 
I have a 1.8t AGU 


_Modified by alexlm at 9:19 AM 4-29-2010_


----------



## Redapex (Mar 9, 2004)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *alexlm* »_cool thats going to be very useful, how do I enter into block32?? I am a new to this vag-com thing LOL 
I have a 1.8t AGU 


Go into the Engine at the bottom there should be a button that says "measuring blocks" or something to that degree. Type in 32 into the field, profit.
BTW: What are you guys running for inlets on these things? 


_Modified by Redapex at 1:07 PM 4-29-2010_


----------



## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Redapex)*

I just built one from parts bought from Lowes hardware! Works just fine for me!


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

*Re: (GloryFreak)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GloryFreak* »_Cause I'm runing unitronics stage 2+ software. I don't have the stage 3 yet, plus when I did my rods, I deleted my sai pump. Doing that will throw a some readyness codes. Can't log fuel trims with the readyness codes so I'm worried that if I increase boost, It might run lean. Better safe than sorry. 

As long as you put resistors in you will only throw a code for improper flow. 
Your fuel trims will still be read fine; as long as you did it right and used resistors.


----------



## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

*Re: (hootyburra)*

I'm just waiting till i get it tuned. No biggy


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

*Re: (GloryFreak)*

you still need the resistors if you want your fuel trims to be read.


----------



## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

*Re: (hootyburra)*

All that stuff (SAI delete, MAF Delete, N249 Delete, EVAP delete) will all be taken care of in about 2 weeks. I'm fine for now


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: (GloryFreak)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GloryFreak* »_Thanks xrecklesdriverx, I know people will hate all over the internet...it's just their nature I guess. I have all 100% quality parts with the exception of my turbocharger. I use to have a Garrett T3/T4 50 trim but I guess it was getting older or something and the turbine wheel snapped in two (even high paying quality parts can fall apart sometimes). I really didn't have the money to buy a new Garrett so I took a chance and bought a Godspeed T3/T4 50 trim off of ebay. I'm not saying this turbo is perfect, but I like trying new things and making my own assumptions on things. Here is a video I took today driving around my home town. *** Special note, this isn't a Unitronic stage 3 file, it's the stage 2+ with 380cc injectors. I will have the Stage 3 file in about 2 weeks hopefully and while I'm sending the ECU up to Unitronic to have it tuned, that's when I'm throwing my other wastegate spring in to boost 22 psi. 



So what your saying here via video is your built T3/T4 1.8T acccelerates as fast a my wife's stock K03 sport car with boltons?


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

gdog is at it again.....


----------



## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*

Arguing on the internet is like winning the special Olympics. Even if you win, your still restarted. This gdoggmoney can believe all the crap he wants about my car. He can say some crap likes his wifes/dudes/sisters/dog or whatever stock k03 is faster...But I know it's not. When a k03 starts dieing off about 5000 rpms, sad. Oh and gdoggmoney, I never knew you were into telling fiction stories. Thanks for the laugh!


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: (GloryFreak)*

If the K03 pulls just as hard below 5000rpm's for a broader range, as your car appears to after 5000rpms what is the difference?


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

has anyone ever thought how short these build threads would be without useless information and pointless rambling of the competition?


----------



## D3hd3nd (Jun 18, 2008)

*Re: (bsbllfit7)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bsbllfit7* »_has anyone ever thought how short these build threads would be without useless information and pointless rambling of the competition?

i agree... we should fill a page with comments on this particular subject


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: (GloryFreak)*

mi car continues to have the problem







it doesn't hapens in 1st gear?? it feels like the boost is getting cut


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: (GloryFreak)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GloryFreak* »_Arguing on the internet is like winning the special Olympics. Even if you win, your still restarted. This gdoggmoney can believe all the crap he wants about my car. He can say some crap likes his wifes/dudes/sisters/dog or whatever stock k03 is faster...But I know it's not. When a k03 starts dieing off about 5000 rpms, sad. Oh and gdoggmoney, I never knew you were into telling fiction stories. Thanks for the laugh!










You can take a trip up to MD with it, and run my GTi if you want to see what a properly put together car does. 3071R @ 1bar wastegate. 
Pretty even match there, no? Afterwards you can run the stock Ko3 Jetta


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *gdoggmoney* »_

You can take a trip up to MD with it, and run my GTi if you want to see what a properly put together car does. 3071R @ 1bar wastegate. 
Pretty even match there, no? Afterwards you can run the stock Ko3 Jetta










i can even bring my getta with a real 50 trim out to have some fun with you gdoggmoney... then we can have 2 properly put together tuned cars
n yea that video with ur 50 trim made the wifey k04 look like a 3071


----------



## 1.8t67 (Dec 7, 2008)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gdoggmoney* »_

You can take a trip up to MD with it, and run my GTi if you want to see what a properly put together car does. 3071R @ 1bar wastegate. 
Pretty even match there, no? Afterwards you can run the stock Ko3 Jetta









wow. build a "racecar" to run ~15psi of boost. thats awesome. then try and call someone out online with it. lmfao. what a joke. i love how you think you can comment on everyone elses car, yet you run your own car like a turd. seriously dude? thats retarded.


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: (1.8t67)*

Hey princess, someone still a little salty after being called out on having a "SFWD build" with a stock 02J and rubber fuel lines a few inches from the ground?








Oh boy it certainly seems so.
<3 1.8t67 Need a hug pal?


_Modified by gdoggmoney at 6:29 AM 5-1-2010_


----------



## 1.8t67 (Dec 7, 2008)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gdoggmoney* »_Hey princess, someone still a little salty after being called out on having a "SFWD build" with a stock 02J and rubber fuel lines a few inches from the ground?








Oh boy it certainly seems so.
<3 1.8t67 Need a hug pal?

_Modified by gdoggmoney at 6:29 AM 5-1-2010_

that what you call a call out? 
rubber lines? shows how little you know about modifying a car. stick with the search button. it shows that is where your knowledge comes from. 
ps. cupcake, i'm all grown up, have a wife and kids, and 2 other vehicles to "tow them around in". i don't have to sell MY baby.


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: (1.8t67)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8t67* »_
that what you call a call out? 
rubber lines? shows how little you know about modifying a car. stick with the search button. it shows that is where your knowledge comes from. 
ps. cupcake, i'm all grown up, have a wife and kids, and 2 other vehicles to "tow them around in". i don't have to sell MY baby.










Yes, go back to your SFWD stock 02J build, then getting laid off and blowing your money on cars.
I dont have to sell my baby either, I want to because I have 6 vehicles now princess.


----------



## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gdoggmoney* »_
I have 6 vehicles 

I have 7


----------



## Bannedfortrolling (Oct 21, 2009)

I have 12, and my dad can beat up your dad.


----------



## 1.8t67 (Dec 7, 2008)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gdoggmoney* »_

Yes, go back to your SFWD stock 02J build, then getting laid off and blowing your money on cars.
I dont have to sell my baby either, I want to because I have 6 vehicles now princess.









i'm sure you do. 
i get excited when jealousy brings hateness. knowing someone can afford to build a car while they are layed off, while others would be selling everything.


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

You guys are funny. This ****ing thread has gone on long enough...Lets lock this ****!!


----------



## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*

Agreed. Am I able to kill this thing, since I'm the one who created it? I am happy to do so if I am able. Please let me know.
On a happier note, I have ordered the Eurodyne 630cc file along with injectors and hope to recieve it within a week or so. I will be starting a new thread with the results, as this one has become ridiculous.


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

you can join my thread on this topic i created awhile ago. ill post the link


----------



## bsbllfit7 (Oct 26, 2009)

nvm cant find the link haha. Start a new one with ebay 50 trim results as the title. We get the jetta back monday, turns out the wiring harness to the tranny shorted out. A bolt was rubbing on a few wires and it shorted out. Now on to 18psi with no shifting problems!


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TimC)*








dont kill the thread, it has helped me alot and has a lot og great information


----------



## Redapex (Mar 9, 2004)

k03 finally died and is coming off next week. Against my better judgment I will also be joining the scientific ranks. The kit came in, everything _looks_ decent though Im no materials engineer. Those looking to follow I purchased the kit made by EMUSA on ebay for $680 shipped. It included the turbo, manifold, wastegate, oil feed, return line, and downpipe..and FMIC that actually has all the right bends but the core... well I'll be sticking to my eurojet. Extra hardware needed from just looking at it: You will need a 38mm Wastegate elbow to clear the turbo and wastegate dump ($40), the oil return setup does not include an adapter or the right bends to connect it back into the block. You will need an oil return adapter from ATP, a 45 degree -10AN to 1/2NTP adapter and a female to female -10 AN to -10 AN 90degree (about $45at least thats what I've ordered, we'll see). I went ahead and ordered the 2 extra flanges suggested by tim though Im hoping I wont need ($30) them along with a 90 degree 3" Silicone hose for the inlet ($20) and 3" MAF housing ($70) + misc. gaskets and bolts. Fueling will be handled immediately by 580cc Siemens injectors (thanks to 1.8t67, though if he knew I was using them for this he probably wouldnt have sold them to me), software will be APR Stage 2 tweaked via Lemmiwinks/VAG-COM and monitored. I'm not looking to build anything crazy, the lack of an upgraded fuel pump and software will keep me limited to about 15psi for now. So... Yeah playing with fire. 

Car should be up and running by thursday night, friday morning at the absolute latest (doing the timing belt as well). I'll try and get you small updates with pics as I go. Logs and more detailed info to follow next week provided I don't launch a rod into orbit on the way to SoWo. 

2 Immediate questions: 
1.) Im running NGK BRK7Es and plan on swapping in a new set. Currently im running a gap of .028, would this be fine for this setup? 
2.) Provided I can get the AFRs, and timing in check @ a my target boost, what is the limit of the factory fuel pump? I would assume 15psi would be pretty close? 

Why am I doing this? Im hard headed and genuinely curious. When people tell me something wont work I still have to try it... 


...And then I'll buy them a beer and ask for help when it all goes horribly wrong. (I know what you're thinking, don't worry. I dont skimp on beer.)


----------



## alexlm (Feb 27, 2009)

Redapex said:


> k03 finally died and is coming off next week. Against my better judgment I will also be joining the scientific ranks. The kit came in, everything _looks_ decent though Im no materials engineer. Those looking to follow I purchased the kit made by EMUSA on ebay for $680 shipped. It included the turbo, manifold, wastegate, oil feed, return line, and downpipe..and FMIC that actually has all the right bends but the core... well I'll be sticking to my eurojet. Extra hardware needed from just looking at it: You will need a 38mm Wastegate elbow to clear the turbo and wastegate dump ($40), the oil return setup does not include an adapter or the right bends to connect it back into the block. You will need an oil return adapter from ATP, a 45 degree -10AN to 1/2NTP adapter and a female to female -10 AN to -10 AN 90degree (about $45at least thats what I've ordered, we'll see). I went ahead and ordered the 2 extra flanges suggested by tim though Im hoping I wont need ($30) them along with a 90 degree 3" Silicone hose for the inlet ($20) and 3" MAF housing ($70) + misc. gaskets and bolts. Fueling will be handled immediately by 580cc Siemens injectors (thanks to 1.8t67, though if he knew I was using them for this he probably wouldnt have sold them to me), software will be APR Stage 2 tweaked via Lemmiwinks/VAG-COM and monitored. I'm not looking to build anything crazy, the lack of an upgraded fuel pump and software will keep me limited to about 15psi for now. So... Yeah playing with fire.
> 
> Car should be up and running by thursday night, friday morning at the absolute latest (doing the timing belt as well). I'll try and get you small updates with pics as I go. Logs and more detailed info to follow next week provided I don't launch a rod into orbit on the way to SoWo.
> 
> ...


 cool you going to like the kit! what thing can be done with vag com??


----------



## TheBossQ (Aug 15, 2009)

Bannedfortrolling said:


> I have 12, and my dad can beat up your dad.


 My dad is a 3rd degree black belt in Taekwondo, a brown belt in Karate and is a former all american collegiate wrestler. Can your dad still beat up my dad? If so, what does my dad need to do to get better than your dad? Any help is appreciated.


----------



## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

Ran 15 psi of boost for about 6 months straight with my bt build with Unitronics stage 2+ with 380cc injectors @ 3 bar. No problems. I hoep you will be fine ...Then again to be cautious, i would do rods whenever you get around to it. I'm surprised I didn't throw a rod as well.


----------



## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

I'm all against clogging up the threads with off the topic crap, but this one actually made me laugh. "Can your dad still beat up my dad? If so, what does my dad need to do to get better than your dad? Any help is appreciated. " lmao!


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

TimC said:


> Agreed. Am I able to kill this thing, since I'm the one who created it? I am happy to do so if I am able. Please let me know.
> On a happier note, I have ordered the Eurodyne 630cc file along with injectors and hope to recieve it within a week or so. I will be starting a new thread with the results, as this one has become ridiculous.


 The Eurodyne 630cc file is sick. my car is amazing now, SOOO much power at my toe tips


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## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

cant beleive thse a.s.s.h.o.l.e.s put this thread to hell.....big tom glad to see you made successs as well as everyone els


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

So at long last, I got the Eurodyne 630 file along with an upgraded fuel pump. I've been running about 20psi for the past 500 or so miles with no problems so far and it pulls very nicely. Anybody out there know how much boost I can run on this file (it's the 91 octane version) to keep it under the 300 wheel torque limit for stock rods?


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## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

TimC said:


> So at long last, I got the Eurodyne 630 file along with an upgraded fuel pump. I've been running about 20psi for the past 500 or so miles with no problems so far and it pulls very nicely. Anybody out there know how much boost I can run on this file (it's the 91 octane version) to keep it under the 300 wheel torque limit for stock rods?


Not exactly sure. I ran 15 psi for about 8 or so months with stock rods, but then again I had unitronics stage 2+ 93 octane file. You need to get those rods man! 25 psi is AWESOME!!! Do you have a wideband gauge and or logging block 032 with vagcom? At 20 psi, i'm just hoping your not running lean up top!


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

I promised updates so I'm posting again, though many have attempted to undermine this thread with their "ebay sux!" musings. 

I've been running 20-21psi for about a thousand miles now on Eurodyne 630cc Mafless file with no problems and I do beat on it regularly. It pulls really nice, as anyone with a t3/t4 on these engines know. (I've put a total of about 8,000 miles on the turbo, downpipe, wastegate, manifold, etc.) 

I will be taking off the entire setup briefly in a few months because I will need to get smogged here in California and will take pictures of the components again, if there are any interesting issues to note. 

For those wanting to get 300-350whp out of their aging 1.8t's for under 2,000 bucks (about a grand for the hardware kit, and a grand for the BT software and fueling), this is the way to go.


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## j.burton50 (Oct 20, 2008)

haha im very pleased to hear about your success i have an ebay kit in my room brand new and pretty much complete that ive been concerned about installing. but now hearing about your luck, i guess im ready to tempt fate aswell  will continue to wathc this arguementative thread. plz post more often ha


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## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

I don't have the whole ebay kit, but I have the ebay turbo. An update on myself: The turbo has about 10,000 miles on it right now. Checked it yesterday and no shaft play, no smoking, no problem. This might be overloading the turbo but it has seen 25 psi for the past 4-5 weeks now with no problems....So far so good.


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## Redapex (Mar 9, 2004)

I've got about 600 miles on my setup. Running 580cc's and APR Stage 2 software @ 15psi. Everything seems to be good. If you go with the actual kit from ebay just do your self a favor and order the ATP return kit (or use Tim's solution) and the ATP wastegate adapter. My oil feed line that came with the kit ruptured and spewed oil all over the downpipe. Instant flashback to that say it aint so video:what: The wastegate adapter will be needed to clear the turbo, I tried to use a simple elbow off of ebay but the wastegate would actually end up hitting the block and wouldnt seal at the manifold. Everything runs fine, I wouldnt think 15psi would be that big of a deal for this turbo but im not going much higher on the factory pump. Next time I go visit my friends in Auburn I'll swing by APR and pick up their pump and move up to 20psi. Detailed list of my parts would be;

+ EMUSA Racing kit from ebay
+ Siemens 580cc Injectors
+ 3" Machined MAF housing from ebay (actually a very,very nice piece for $50)
+ 3" ATP Inlet
+ ATP Oil Return Line Kit
+ ATP Oil housing adapter
+ ATP Wastegate Adapter
+ APR Stage 2 ECU software 
- APR Fuel Pump coming soon

Seeing as this is just an ATP clone kit I figured Id have the best luck with their misc. hardware. I'll report back once the APR pump is in and im running my target boost. I also want to get the wastegate routed back into my exhaust. It sounds great at WOT but is kind of annoying when Im just slightly getting on it.


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## jettawlfsbrg01 (May 1, 2008)

This is kinda like the thread that was started a while ago "who here has actually broken a rod" and from what i recall over 85% of the people who actually did a lot of them were not driving vw's and the rest were using nozzzzzzz on stock rods . Now like anything like this thread or that one, there are going to be problems and failures its to be expected its just when 1 person has a bad experience with something they tell there friends and word of mouth like wild fire. Not saying that ebay stuff is top of line but you should get my point. 

But...I know you guys have taken ALOT of **** and braved experimenting and trying to prove everyone wrong but this is to you :beer:


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## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

*Proudley to say*

Proudly to say ...we did prove everyone wrong.....

Cheap turbo build gives you the same results for half the cost im happy to say i never gave up and glad to see everyone is making it big....

Also 10,000 k update proud to see everything is well and come to find out he only has the ebay turbo and still rocking 25 psi strong and pulling hard....


Success always doesnt have to cost a fortune ...remember that name branders lol


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## j.burton50 (Oct 20, 2008)

i love this place hahahahaha


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## gstrouse (Oct 13, 2000)

So I just found this thread. I also just posted a new thread titled, "Are the K03 turbos on Ebay any good?". I see that this thread started with the OP using a "kit". I'm not looking for any performance upgrade, rathter just to replace a bad turbo on a high mileage car. So the question is are these ebay turbos worth a look? It would appear so. The other question is what issues will I run into if I just purchase the turbo? Is it a direct swap and will it hook up to the factory parts without any problems? I have to admit this was a long thread and I haven't read every post. So it might have been covered.
Thanks for any replys.

One last question. Are there any special tools or tricks to replace the turbo?


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## j.burton50 (Oct 20, 2008)

i dont recall seeing anything about ebay k03 turbos? mostly the 50 and 57 trim upgrades... but if u dont have experience with ebay, sometimes when u get parts, the mounting holes are a little off, or just dont exist on the new parts. not usually a big deal, just something to think about?

and as far as the last question.... wrenchs, time, common since..... lol remove bolts. put em back in tight, and its replaced. dont let it intimidate you so much. its just a turbine in a metal housing. all ur doing is taking a few bolts loose.


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## j.burton50 (Oct 20, 2008)

gdoggmoney said:


> If the K03 pulls just as hard below 5000rpm's for a broader range, as your car appears to after 5000rpms what is the difference?


:sly: im pretty sure if u read tht enough u can answer ur own question. but since u wanna ask, its basically just figuratively "changing" the power band. if i do recall, the stock turbo spools around 2k or 2500 and is outa breath by 5k, and since most chipped cars tach out around 7500 those 2500 rpms would be pretty useless without a bigger turbo.. jerk.

sorry lemme correct myself, the cams run out of breath at the above range. there are just soo many ways to answer that question..


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## j.burton50 (Oct 20, 2008)

to the OP, did you upgrade your clutch or anything previously, and if not have you noticed much slippage?


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## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

j.burton50 said:


> to the OP, did you upgrade your clutch or anything previously, and if not have you noticed much slippage?


I'm not the OP but I will take that question. I have been stage III since Sept. 09. I have ran the dog piss out of my car ever since. The clutch finally went out about 2 weeks ago while I was drag racing at Rockingham Dragway. Here are some pics that I took 2 days ago. Bare in mind this is the stock 05 GLI LUK clutch. The clutch had 90,000 miles on it. 30,000 of those miles were stage III.


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

any updates guys?>??

im about to order the parts for a aussie build


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## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

GloryFreak said:


> I'm not the OP but I will take that question. I have been stage III since Sept. 09. I have ran the dog piss out of my car ever since. The clutch finally went out about 2 weeks ago while I was drag racing at Rockingham Dragway. Here are some pics that I took 2 days ago. Bare in mind this is the stock 05 GLI LUK clutch. The clutch had 90,000 miles on it. 30,000 of those miles were stage III.


*thasts just awesome ahaha wish i still had a pic of my old clutch...only had 2 teeth left on my pressure plate *


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Seriously debating buying just the turbo for 18psi until I get the rods next year and go bigger


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> Seriously debating buying just the turbo for 18psi until I get the rods next year and go bigger


do u wear Nike's? Just Do It


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

hey guys,

how do i contact chris tapp?
im from australia and want to get the eurodyne software..

is there a parts list for all parts required from apt website like oil reducers etc?

this is the kit il be buying
http://cgi.ebay.com/VW-Jetta-Turbo-...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eae0f7d7b


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ call pagparts


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

bl33su said:


> hey guys,
> 
> how do i contact chris tapp?
> im from australia and want to get the eurodyne software..
> ...


i love in the link a pic of a ATP manifold installed and not theirs :laugh:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

So EMUSA is the brand to go with?
Are you using the ebay lines also going with something good for them?


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## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

hootyburra said:


> So EMUSA is the brand to go with?
> Are you using the ebay lines also going with something good for them?


please read further into the thread alll of your questions will be answered ..*trust me *


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

so any problems yet with turbo etc??

been awhile..


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

I've put about 10,000 miles on the setup at this point, still with no problems. I did at least expect the wastegate to go bad at this point, or perhaps a few exhaust leaks and warps, but nothing yet. "EMUSA" is the ebay kit to go with if you're going ebay kit. I think they are the only people making these ultra-inexpensive ATP downpipe clones. Otherwise, all other ebay turbos and wastegates are pretty much identical.

Here is a little video of a 3rd gear run. I'm running about 19psi with a small spike to about 21psi for just a moment, you'll see. I think I'd have to go electronic boost control to eliminate any spiking. No really sure. I have not dynoed it yet, but I think I could run 22psi with no problem, since I have to run crappy California 91 octane and I know the timing tables have been dialed back for my 91 octane specific file.



I am getting smogged here soon, so I will be temporarily removing the entire setup and going back to the stock hardware. This will give me a chance to inspect all pieces and I will post pictures of anything notable, includine warps, cracks, leaks, shaft-play, etc if they exist. 

I encourage others to keep this thread updated as well. The a**h**** seem to have disappeared, at least for now.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

That video looks very promising. 

I might order the turbo and manifold and be done, or get the whole kit and part everything I don't need. 

Wouldn't it be great if the OP made this thread for EMUSA and he is actually using a cts kit. :laugh:
Or if all of this stuff is made in the same building and gets a fancy named stamped on it....


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

hootyburra said:


> That video looks very promising.
> 
> I might order the turbo and manifold and be done, or get the whole kit and part everything I don't need.
> 
> ...


Ha ha, I wish I was getting kickbacks from somebody. In fact the closest I came to that was earlier in this thread when I begged somebody at Pagparts to give me the Eurodyne BT software for free so I could crank up the boost, blow up the EMUSA kit, and then have to buy a Pagparts kit. 

Seriously, I promise I've been using the hardware pictured in the beginning of this thread and soon when I take it off, I'll post pictures of how it's holding up.

I don't think there's anything unique or special about EMUSA parts, with the exception of one thing, the downpipe they make to fit the T3/T4 for our platforms. Occassionally I've seen them listed by themselves on Ebay for like 90 bucks. I think this is really the only unique part they manufacture themselves. The next best think is to just get the ATP part for 395 bucks.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

how long 'till you tear it apart?


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

sometime within the next month.


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

has any1 tried this exhaust package?

3" turboback.. but since you have a different dump pipe, just use the 3" catback..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/99-0...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

I have that exhaust system.. The hardware they give you is garbage; but overall you cant beat it


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## 1.8t67 (Dec 7, 2008)

tha video is crap. i would cliff dive my car if it accelerated like that.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

1.8t67 said:


> tha video is crap. i would cliff dive my car if it accelerated like that.


LOL. it does look a bit slow for a 50 trim


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

Big_Tom said:


> LOL. it does look a bit slow for a 50 trim


would you be able to take a video of your car big_tom??

i wanna see a 50 trim scream.. 

ANY1 WITH A GOOD VIDEO OF A GOLF WITH SCREAM PIPE?


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Screamer pipe eh? 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lUn...6951C64B1&playnext_from=PL&index=0&playnext=1


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Screamer pipe eh?
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lUn...6951C64B1&playnext_from=PL&index=0&playnext=1


lol yeh here we call it a screamer pipe.. you call it open dump from the wastegate.


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

1.8t67 said:


> tha video is crap. i would cliff dive my car if it accelerated like that.


Damn, you guys are tough. I am limited to about 19psi as you can see, and am forced to run California 91 octane, which I'm sure does no favors to my timing pull. 

When I'm able to get dynoed, I'm sure I'll be able to turn the boost up to 22 or so. 

Either way, f*** you very much for your input.


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> LOL. it does look a bit slow for a 50 trim


Please do post a video of your 50 trim running a good third gear pull for comparison purposes. I would like to know a well running setup looks like at a decent boost level. I've searched YouTube and the selection is limited and of low quality. thanks.:thumbup:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

TimC said:


> Damn, you guys are tough. I am limited to about 19psi as you can see, and am forced to run California 91 octane, which I'm sure does no favors to my timing pull.
> 
> When I'm able to get dynoed, I'm sure I'll be able to turn the boost up to 22 or so.
> 
> Either way, f*** you very much for your input.


Ahahaha you have a good sense of humor bro :beer: I'll try to post a vid today when i can get a cameraman. i didnt know you were running 91 oct cali gas and it looked like u were running a 20-21 psi u might be alright there.





TimC said:


> Please do post a video of your 50 trim running a good third gear pull for comparison purposes. I would like to know a well running setup looks like at a decent boost level. I've searched YouTube and the selection is limited and of low quality. thanks.:thumbup:


you tube is very limited it sucked for me while i was doing research.


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

wot do you mean by hardware? as in the product itself??
did it all bolt up in place?


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## Redapex (Mar 9, 2004)

hootyburra said:


> So EMUSA is the brand to go with?
> Are you using the ebay lines also going with something good for them?


Those of you going with the EMSUA kit, read this:
1.) Do NOT use the supplied oil return lines. They suck, they will leak.
2.) Go ahead and pick up the ATP Oil return line kit. Worth every penny.
3.) I dont know if the kit is supposed to come with a wastegate adapter or not but mine did not. You will need to pick up the ATP Wastegate adapter to keep the wastegate from hitting the turbo. Or take it to a fabricator and have him fab an adapter for you.
4.) The downpipe will not line up correctly you can use Tim's method or take it to a shop and have them extend the piping. If you're going this route you might as well have them plump the wastegate back into the downpipe to keep things quiet.
5.) You will need an inlet, either get that fabbed up too or just go with ATPs 3" inlet.

Just be aware that the kit is not 100% bolt on. The manifold and turbo fit fine you will need to get creative with the rest of it. Luckily for you I seem to have done most of the guess work. If you source ATP parts plan on spending another $300 on hardware. Fabrication for the wastegate plumbing will depend on the shop. Tack on another $300-400 for fueling as well. Take you choice on software. If you're planning on just shelling out $600 and running 12s then keep moving.

All in all be prepared to spend about $1400 or so... Which isnt all that far off from a PAG/FFE/CTS kit Its your choice. I didnt mind going this route because I like Tim was willing to take the bullet and provide feedback on the setup. I have no doubt that it will make power, longevity wise my car has 150k on it and I probably wont be keeping much longer and I doubt I'll see any major failures before I move on to something else. If you want a *somewhat* cheaper alternative to one of the legit setups or your stock turbo is shot but want more than a k04 for around the same price then sure look into it. 

Im not going to knock the kit because well, it does work. It lacks the workmanship of the more expensive kits but no one should expect the quality that Arnold and the others put into their kits for half the price. That being said, there are better ways to get into the BT game for sure and I'll leave it at that. Happy modding.


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

Redapex said:


> Those of you going with the EMSUA kit, read this:
> 1.) Do NOT use the supplied oil return lines. They suck, they will leak.
> 2.) Go ahead and pick up the ATP Oil return line kit. Worth every penny.
> 3.) I dont know if the kit is supposed to come with a wastegate adapter or not but mine did not. You will need to pick up the ATP Wastegate adapter to keep the wastegate from hitting the turbo. Or take it to a fabricator and have him fab an adapter for you.
> ...


THANKS SO MUCH FOR THIS WRITE UP!

now just one question regarding the downpipe, when you say extend it.. Do you mean it is short where it connects to the rest of the exhaust?
if so, it shouldnt be a big job for a exhaust shop to weld extra piping to connect.


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## Redapex (Mar 9, 2004)

bl33su said:


> THANKS SO MUCH FOR THIS WRITE UP!
> 
> now just one question regarding the downpipe, when you say extend it.. Do you mean it is short where it connects to the rest of the exhaust?
> if so, it shouldnt be a big job for a exhaust shop to weld extra piping to connect.


If you look at Tim's earlier posts you'll see whats going on. The downpipe itself is long enough but if you just throw it on it will sit just to the right of where you want it to go. You could probably still bolt the midpipe to it but wouldnt be pretty. He used two flanges to kind of push the whole thing over a little and I am too for now. Not sure how this will hold up long term as its just one more thing to leak. You would need to have a shop cut the downpipe right before the flange and extend it about an inch and a half. I can measure the flanges for you if you want the exact length.


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

Well stated and good write up, Redapex. I agree with everything you wrote. By the time you put together all the parts no one thinks about (wastegate adapter, decent oil lines, inlet etc.) it begins to add up but I am still happy I didn't shell out for a higher quality kit for my 160,000+ mile car. I still think it's pretty awesome to get a comparable turbo for $125 vs. $600, a wastegate for $60 vs. $200, exhaust manifold for $120 vs. $400, etc.

As a side note, so far, I haven't had any exhaust leaks even with the extra flanges added to shift the downpipe over.


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

oh i see now how you have added a extra flange to the DP.

i guess it shouldnt be a big problem if you tighten it up and use gaskets


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

so how much did you save in the end versus going with the CTS kit?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

sent a message to speedyracer regarding his kit; still waiting for a reply. 

Has anyone had experience with this sellers manifolds? 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0621567204&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

hootyburra said:


> so how much did you save in the end versus going with the CTS kit?


I spent about $1000, including every nut, bolt, and gasket. When you consider I spent only about $425 for the turbo, downpipe, wastegate, and manifold "kit", you see that the other bits and pieces do add up (to about $575).

This means I saved about $1295 compared to the CTS kit. For me it was worth it, considering this savings was enough to get me my Eurodyne 630cc BT file, injectors, and fuel pump.


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

hootyburra said:


> sent a message to speedyracer regarding his kit; still waiting for a reply.
> 
> Has anyone had experience with this sellers manifolds?
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0621567204&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT


I say give it a try for 120 bucks. It certainly looks a lot easier to install than the ATP style log manifolds. A negative though is that it will require a downpipe that matches a turbo positioned directly in the middle of the head, as opposed to shifted over a bit to the passenger side. 

People will say you've lost your mind, until you demonstrate that it works just fine. Is it possible the Chinese have mastered the robotically controlled TIG welder? It seems so.


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

is there any reason for using a stainless steel manifold instead of the cast iron?

they are both about the same price and the cast iron would prob be more durable and less likely to crack.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

simply to be different


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I didn't see it mentioned anywhere, did you use an oil restrictor?

Edit it looks like you did in the pics on the first page?


Speedyracer replied 

"hi,dear cusotmer,we don't have any more pictures for this,it is made in China.and we aren't sure what software you will need.thanks.

- speedyracerparts"

WOW :laugh::what:


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

this kit is getting even cheaper guys! 

you can now make a ebay offer LOL!!


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## j.burton50 (Oct 20, 2008)

did you run a boost controller? i dont recall seeing one anywhere. my next step is ordering that dayum eurodyne software :/ ha dam it!


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

j.burton50 said:


> did you run a boost controller? i dont recall seeing one anywhere. my next step is ordering that dayum eurodyne software :/ ha dam it!


 I currently run a manual boost controller but have just ordered an electronic boost controller due to what I consider excessive boost spike and general boost instability. The Eurodyne Mafless 630cc file will run an N75 valve and it seems to be set to around 21psi if you are interested in going that route. 

To answer a question a few posts up, I do NOT run an oil restrictor and I think this is an important thing to do to keep these journal bearing turbos alive on our engines.


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## j.burton50 (Oct 20, 2008)

i was told that most ebay turbos are "babbet" bearing. and that the main failure comes from improper oil supply. forgive my question here, but are you saying its important not to use one? kinda got me a little confused now.

and what i plan on doing is the mafless 630 maestro. but for the time being i have to figure out what imma use for my tip. where did you get the scorpion silicon from again? i found it once but cnt find it now.

also, since we are running external wastegate, whats the purpose for the n75? im drawing a blank right now.... and i cant remember where all the vacuum lines were run.


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## j.burton50 (Oct 20, 2008)

hootyburra said:


> sent a message to speedyracer regarding his kit; still waiting for a reply.
> 
> Has anyone had experience with this sellers manifolds?
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0621567204&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT


 wow i like that the welds look pretty good... dont understand why they had to brace the wastegate flange like that.. kinda makes me curious.


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## Red_MK4 (Jun 26, 2009)

suscribed.... 

lower it... lol


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

j.burton50 said:


> i was told that most ebay turbos are "babbet" bearing. and that the main failure comes from improper oil supply. forgive my question here, but are you saying its important not to use one? kinda got me a little confused now.
> 
> and what i plan on doing is the mafless 630 maestro. but for the time being i have to figure out what imma use for my tip. where did you get the scorpion silicon from again? i found it once but cnt find it now.
> 
> also, since we are running external wastegate, whats the purpose for the n75? im drawing a blank right now.... and i cant remember where all the vacuum lines were run.


 No problem, to clarify, I do NOT use an oil restrictor. I have heard similar things you have about our turbos (and journal bearing turbos in general) needing a lot of oil supply. Some people have warned that without an oil restrictor you'll "blow oil past the seals" but this has not been the case with me. So again, I run the oil line directly onto the turbo without a restrictor. 

To answer your question about the tip (turbo inlet pipe), I got mine from ATP turbo or I also think Pagparts sells these. You're calling it a scorpion silicon, they call it a cobra-style intake for tight fitting places. 


Regarding the n75 valve, I would not necessarily recommend using it, I would recommend at least a simple mechanical manual boost controller. I only mention it because you can use it if you want. The way you rig it (as with any boost controller) is bottom wastegate port to n75 valve port #1 to n75 valve port #2 to boost source. Hope this helps.


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## j.burton50 (Oct 20, 2008)

SO your saying that an MBC replaces the need for an n75. so will all that work with no software. im sorry i dont recall these questions covered before. i have a 50 trim kit 63 ar, and it came with a restrictor. aswell as a stainless braided oil line. not the cheap crappy one. and i also orderd the atp lines anyway. but what would you do. the fact that mine came with a restrictor is whats throughin me off. my buddy always ran a restrictor on his turbod hondas, but he also wasnt boostin over 10 psi.


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

j.burton50 said:


> SO your saying that an MBC replaces the need for an n75. so will all that work with no software. im sorry i dont recall these questions covered before. i have a 50 trim kit 63 ar, and it came with a restrictor. aswell as a stainless braided oil line. not the cheap crappy one. and i also orderd the atp lines anyway. but what would you do. the fact that mine came with a restrictor is whats throughin me off. my buddy always ran a restrictor on his turbod hondas, but he also wasnt boostin over 10 psi.


 If you're running stock software, you will simply need to keep the N75 plugged into the wiring harness but disconnect the vacuum lines. Then just run an MBC from a boost source to the MBC to the wastegate, this is what I did for a long time until I got BT software. 

Regarding the restrictor: you will hear endless arguments pro and con all over the place. It is possible that for example Hondas run slightly higher oil pressure so they need to run a restrictor. I am just guessing here. My thinking is that you want to run as much oil to our turbos as you possibly can (since they are not water cooled) without blowing oil past the seals. All I can share is my experience, which is I have run no restrictor, with no problems, for around 10,000 miles. I know that many Rotomaster 50 trims (sold by CTS, Kinetics, etc,) went bad very quickly, and often even name brands like Garrett, is it possible this happened because of running a restrictor? I am only guessing here.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

have you taken anything apart yet? 
Have you ran into anymore issues?


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

I have just gone through the hellish experience of going back to stock for the time being, so I have taken off all the parts and have pictures. The basics are that I've put about 10,000 miles on all the parts, most recently running 21-22 psi, and I beat on it regularly. The short version of this post is that there's really nothing to report in terms of failures. However, I'll go through the parts with some pics. 



















Here is the wastegate with top and spring removed. I had really expected that the ebay tial knockoff would fail by now due to what I expected would be a crappy diaphragm. I have been told that the design is similar to Tial, but not identical. Basically, the diaphragm is made of fiber or fabric reinforced silicone. You can see some soot and general dirtiness present. However, I inspected it at length and found no burns, melting, ripping, or tearing. Also, the functioning of the wastegate has been consistent and without problems, with quick rise of boost and no overboosting isssues. Is the failure point somewhere above what I am running, maybe at 25psi or higher? Perhaps, I won't know until I have rods. Also, you can see some rust inside the housing, which I find odd. I guess it's due to the natural production of water vapor as a byproduct of gasoline combustion. 



















Here's a couple of shots of the exhaust manifold. Again, no problems here. No cracking or warping and I never had any exhaust leaks at the head or elsewhere. I had expected nightmares regarding warpage and the ensuing exhaust leaks based on other people's input but have had no such problems. 










A shot of the compressor and housing. Nothing of note here. I checked for shaft play but found none. 










A shot of the turbine and housing. Before you post messages about how you think I'm running super lean, don't bother. I have done extensive vag-com logging of afr's, and my plugs look fine. As to why there is this fine coating of white substance, I don't know, perhaps another consequence of running crap California gas. 










Here's the downpipe. It doesn't look pretty and shiny anymore but the welds have held up, with no leaks anywhere. 

Like I said, there's nothing really to report, but people have requested pics so there they are. 

I did go ahead and get the ATP stainless steel oil return kit. The silicon line I was using, pictured earlier in this thread, was doing fine but I always worried about it. I never did like using slip fittings and running that plastic line so close to my downpipe. 

Anyway, that's the 10k update. Good luck with the other super cheap builds out there. ,


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## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

Big :beer: Tim for going against the norm! Glad to see everything is holding up. Keep us posted.


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## NumberOne 2nd2none (Jan 30, 2010)

Since your back to stock why dont you sell the kit!! Its a big turbo kit who wouldn't want it?! :screwy: Get rid of all this **** for like 300$:thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Thanks for taking the time to put the picks up and go through that. 
Looks like I'm sold

Or I could buy this http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...manifold-Wastegate-Extension-ATP-downpipe-etc!
and the ebay turbo ..... what to do


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Look Great!:beer:


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## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

> Or I could buy this http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...manifold-Wastegate-Extension-ATP-downpipe-etc!
> and the ebay turbo ..... what to do


This is very similar to my setup right now. I have name brand parts, but ebay based turbo. I have had 2 name brand turbo's before my ebay 50 trim. I have had a borg warner k04-001 and a Garrett T3/T4 50 trim. Both after about 30-40,000 miles went out on me. Right now I'm using a Godspeed 50 trim with 25 psi daily and so far no problems. I got it for about $220 on ebay. The turbo has about 13,000 miles on it. Just because you buy the "name brand" stuff doesn't mean that they don't occasionally fail too. This is just my choice though.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I am leaning towards the name brand, there is already a sale pending on it. 

If it falls through I will pick it up. 

If I get the ebay kit I can sell the FMIC and make some money back. 

I am ready to order it, just need to decide what I want. 

From what I have read so far the chineeeeese seem to have found out how to make a good quality copy.


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## j.burton50 (Oct 20, 2008)

TimC said:


> If you're running stock software, you will simply need to keep the N75 plugged into the wiring harness but disconnect the vacuum lines. Then just run an MBC from a boost source to the MBC to the wastegate, this is what I did for a long time until I got BT software.
> 
> Regarding the restrictor: you will hear endless arguments pro and con all over the place. It is possible that for example Hondas run slightly higher oil pressure so they need to run a restrictor. I am just guessing here. My thinking is that you want to run as much oil to our turbos as you possibly can (since they are not water cooled) without blowing oil past the seals. All I can share is my experience, which is I have run no restrictor, with no problems, for around 10,000 miles. I know that many Rotomaster 50 trims (sold by CTS, Kinetics, etc,) went bad very quickly, and often even name brands like Garrett, is it possible this happened because of running a restrictor? I am only guessing here.


i hear what your sayin, but i believe it was integrated engineering that i read it on, that had a better explanation, they said that if you didnt run a restrictor, it would EVENTUALLY blow past the seals, so i may just run a restrictor.. still not sure.


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

[/QUOTE]



















[/QUOTE]

The wastegate stem/valve guide/lower hat is leaking as condensation is pressured out of the manifold and some coming through the vac port from the intake I'm sure. You can see the rust/corrosion inside the lower diaphragm housing and outside the wastegate. Pretty soon your valve is going to seize or bind in the guide. I've seen it quite a few times on these gates and one that is in the shop that had the lower hat corrode as a result of this.

Cant really tell too much by the pic, but inside runner number 3, there is a casting flaw and it looks like a small hairline crack developing there?

And no offense, but you cant be serious w/ the wastegate flange stacking.. That is an inevitable leak waiting to happen. Maybe not in 10k miles (which seems like a very TAME 10k miles seeing your components), but inevitably. I can also see by the gasket imprint on the head flange that something is not quite square, especially tapering out into the ends of the mani. Its just takes time and some real abuse...

Something is also going on w/ your 2nd cylinder. The burn doesnt seem to be right. Might wanna keep an eye on that..


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## j.burton50 (Oct 20, 2008)

The wastegate stem/valve guide/lower hat is leaking as condensation is pressured out of the manifold and some coming through the vac port from the intake I'm sure. You can see the rust/corrosion inside the lower diaphragm housing and outside the wastegate. Pretty soon your valve is going to seize or bind in the guide. I've seen it quite a few times on these gates and one that is in the shop that had the lower hat corrode as a result of this.

Cant really tell too much by the pic, but inside runner number 3, there is a casting flaw and it looks like a small hairline crack developing there?

And no offense, but you cant be serious w/ the wastegate flange stacking.. That is an inevitable leak waiting to happen. Maybe not in 10k miles (which seems like a very TAME 10k miles seeing your components), but inevitably. I can also see by the gasket imprint on the head flange that something is not quite square, especially tapering out into the ends of the mani. Its just takes time and some real abuse...

Something is also going on w/ your 2nd cylinder. The burn doesnt seem to be right. Might wanna keep an eye on that..[/QUOTE]



where were you earlier when there was so much arguement about the components of this setup? if you have seen it a few times, ya coulda spoke up :thumbup: lol what about the other parts. any failures you know of we could expect? i mean i plan on slowly buying things little at a time, but from what im saying and based off of what you say, the turbo seems to be the last thing imma replace.....btw, oil lines and WG adapter came yest.day thank you atp 



o btw, OP, can you post a pic of the way your mbc was setup when you were runnin off the WG spring?


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

[/QUOTE]

The wastegate stem/valve guide/lower hat is leaking as condensation is pressured out of the manifold and some coming through the vac port from the intake I'm sure. You can see the rust/corrosion inside the lower diaphragm housing and outside the wastegate. Pretty soon your valve is going to seize or bind in the guide. I've seen it quite a few times on these gates and one that is in the shop that had the lower hat corrode as a result of this. Sounds like this is a common problem to this type of wastegate design, name brand Tial and Ebay types alike? I can't imagine you've had numerous idiots come into your shop with these Ebay gates "quite a few times". Does anyone manufacture a wastegate with a freely sliding valve in a metal sleeve that is 100% air tight at all pressure levels and temps? If not, then the condensation issue you describe, which I do believe is 100% correct, must be inevitable with all brand wastegates with this type design. Sounds like you've seen quite a few. 

Cant really tell too much by the pic, but inside runner number 3, there is a casting flaw and it looks like a small hairline crack developing there? As best I can tell, you are seeing the "seam" where the two sides of the casting mold meet. Will this manifold turn to crap at some point in the future? I don't doubt it, but so far, there are no cracks developing at this point

And no offense, but you cant be serious w/ the wastegate flange stacking.. I am absolutely 100% motherf****** serious about that wastegate flange stacking. You ought to see me make a ham sandwich.  I know it's quite embarassing, but it's what I had to do to make these components play nicely together and not get into shoving matches. That is an inevitable leak waiting to happen. Maybe not in 10k miles (which seems like a very TAME 10k miles seeing your components), but inevitably. I can also see by the gasket imprint on the head flange that something is not quite square, especially tapering out into the ends of the mani. Its just takes time and some real abuse...Will that be the new reason to cite as to why these parts are not breaking? Because I'm not abusing them enough? I'll make sure I run a stoichiometric mixture at WOT at 30psi on 87 octane in an effort to melt this sumbitch directly onto the pavement. 

Something is also going on w/ your 2nd cylinder. The burn doesnt seem to be right. Might wanna keep an eye on that.. Thanks, you wanna make fun of the cheap indiglo Timex I'm wearing in one of the pics too? Damn. In all seriousness, I dropped about 1500 bucks with your company to get my Eurodyne BT software, ecu, and injectors so i do appreciate your input and expertise. :thumbup:[/QUOTE]


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## j.burton50 (Oct 20, 2008)

I am absolutely 100% motherf****** serious about that wastegate flange stacking. You ought to see me make a ham sandwich.





HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA :laugh:


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

Strange place to have a parting line Tim. Parting line should be higher up I think. Haha, ham sandwich sounds good just about now. No need to run it 30psi/87oct, just for longer and use it for what its intended. Guys taking their cars to the track, dyno'ing, tuning, racing are not pampering their stuff.

Well, I guess some pictures are worth more then me having you guys take my word for it... I will apologize for the crappy digiphone pics.

Exhibit A: Ebay Wastegate. This beauty came in a VR6 turbo with all sorts of running problems. First off, boost control was a little flaky after around 8 months of use. First pic: Notice nipple position...










And a second later. Its gone!










Seriously, the top hat for some reason had the nut on the inside come loose and the diaphragm started to dance around and happened to wear itself to the point that it couldnt be tightened any longer...

Lets investigate on the inside...



















Yep, you guessed it. Crapped out diahpragm inside. The valve wasnt moving freely in the guide as well.

Next, turbo...










This guy came out of the same car that the gate came from. What a surprise . The turbine shaft/comp is a little hard to turn which has me thinking the shaft is bent for some reason... Strange because it was never really boosted past 15psi throughout its life...










Above is the comp wheel. It was leaking a little oil past the front seal/thrust system. Oiling up the entire charge pipe system. What struck me as odd is the lack of balance cuts on the wheel itself...










As I probe deeper... The turbine shaft is completely discolored. Obvious heat markings which indicate coking and overheating of the oil. Perhaps some hot shut downs, but still. Coming from a turbo that has never really seen 20psi, the color is odd... Also, notice the shiny part of the shaft near its base. Indicates lack of lubrication there and its virtually machining itself at this point. I have no doubt that the turbine wheel would've come off due to this at some point...










Horrendous seal material...










Hard to see, but its a badly discolored journal bearing.

Here are shafts from previous quality turbos w/ various mileage on them. Turbos that have seen alot of boost and mileage...










Top is Garrett, middle is K03 and bottom is Evo 16G...

Talk amongst yourselves 

As for your tune Tim... Lets say that hypothetically, that there was no such thing as faulty coils, damaged wiring, iffy injector, bad grounds, ecu issues perhaps you can monitor things a little bit so you dont damage anything in the future. Just be cautious...


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## j.burton50 (Oct 20, 2008)

now thats what im talking about. a little bit of insight :thumbup:

whats your opinion on running a restrictor on this setups? lol


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

So this is the kit?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200503829507&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I am going to give speedy a call today and see what he knows about his products


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I have been browsing through feedback and asking buyers what they think of the kit. 

Most of them are good. 

Here are a few

``i honestly put it on and took it off the manifold is really hard to tighten so i had an exhaust leak n i couldn't figure out where it was coming from n the turbo was on the firewall so honestly to much work for me so im selling the turbo, manifold, blow off valve, waste gate, and the down pipe only keeping the front mount intercooler welding is required for the down pipe so basically i have to cut it off I'm selling for 450 as far as the turbo its pretty good i got mines to spool to 7 to 8 psi and u feel the difference spools around 2500 3000 rpms the turbo itself is great just hard to put on. ``

``Hello, I bought the turbo kit for a friend, I installed it myself using an oil restrictor and the turbo its been running since then with no problems, I believe the turbo has around 1000 miles right now and no problems so far. Let me know if you have any other questions``

``Unfortunately, I have not installed the unit yet.
What I can tell you is that appears to be of good
quality, although not polished interior, and true.
I spoke with several guys that have ran these with
no problems, that is why I bought it.( and way
cheaper than most!) Hope that helps!``

``Hi,
im going to be totally honest so that you are not going to put thru the same as me!
The kit was not a bolt on, the turbo is but needs to be forced thru as it touches your firewall, the downpipe took a week to build because the one which came with the kit fouled the steering rack and driveshaft. The bolts need replacing with stronger ones, the oil feeds and return line you should purchase from a Garretts turbo kit too as i had to custom make mine. The car is running fine, smokes alot at the min because the oil pressure is high and i need an oil restrictor, Im looking to remap and run approx 15-18psi very soon. The turbo is slightly lagged, kicks in around 3.5k rpm. Boosting 7 psi at present and its just fine.``


Discuss ....


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

just ordered it. 

Excellent customer service on the phone.


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## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

hootyburra said:


> just ordered it.
> 
> Excellent customer service on the phone.


 

do it bro and make history ....the ppl on here already did it ....dont forget post results


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

what did everyone who installed this use for hardware (bolts, washers, studs, nuts)? 
What oil are you running?


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

pag or 034 will have what you need.. as far as oil.. 15w-5o mobil1 for the win... Those heavy oils were designed for hot, highly stressed applications, wich ANY BT car qualifys as


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## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> pag or 034 will have what you need.. as far as oil.. 15w-5o mobil1 for the win... Those heavy oils were designed for hot, highly stressed applications, wich ANY BT car qualifys as


 15w-50man... im runnin 5w-30 in my 50trim setup...


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Its a hotly debated subject. All I know is that ive run either 20w-50 or 15w-50 mobil1 in both my old B5 and the jetta.. Both ive owned since new. The b5 had a BT for most of its life til I sold it at 186,000 miles. The jetta currently has 211,000 on it. The jetta is currently off the road as im tearing it down for a full BT build, new paint, interior etc.. the 50 weight stuff has always done me well as far as engine longevity. Just my experience..


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## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Its a hotly debated subject. All I know is that ive run either 20w-50 or 15w-50 mobil1 in both my old B5 and the jetta.. Both ive owned since new. The b5 had a BT for most of its life til I sold it at 186,000 miles. The jetta currently has 211,000 on it. The jetta is currently off the road as im tearing it down for a full BT build, new paint, interior etc.. the 50 weight stuff has always done me well as far as engine longevity. Just my experience..


 hmmm i may have to try some heavier stuff... ive been runnin 5w-30 since the bt went in but i think once it gets hot that it may be thinning it out too much ... pm'd ya


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## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

I'm running Royal Purple 5w-30 for my BT


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

GloryFreak said:


> I'm running Royal Purple 5w-30 for my BT


 cooking oil......


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

mobil 1 full synthetic 10w 30


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## AnOtHeRGlIGuY23 (Aug 7, 2010)

i love this...i would love to do this to my car for that much lol...but jw did you have o run a diff ecu or anything like that or did you just run the kit and ower boost???


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

What does everyone do about the coolant line?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

you can blckit off with an extra oil drain plug or just loop it back around skipping the turbo if you have the proper fittings


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## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

hootyburra said:


> What does everyone do about the coolant line?


 Here is 2 options you can do for cheap. I choose option # 2 

Option # 1: Take OEM feed line and modify it 



















or Option # 2: Find a bolt with same thread and diameter (can be found at hardware store), cut to length needed and plug hole in block. The y connector on the coolant system, replace with a straight connector that can be purchased at any auto parts store.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I will be going with option 2; for those wondering it is an m14 x 1.5 plug for the block I believe it is the same as the oil pan bolt. 
:beer: for the pics that cleared everything up for me. 

 What did everyone use for hardware? 
Is the supplied stuff any good, is it even included? 

I just want to make sure once I get everything torqued down it doesn't back out. 

Edit, another ? that is probably dumb. 

What needs to be plumbed back into the intake if anything? 
The PCV is taken care of with a catch can. 
I'm assuming you only need a port for the DV/BOV; does the n75/ mbc get plumbed back in? 

Another edit, it's better then making new posts.... 

The DP doesn't appear to have bungs for o2 sensors? I'm guessing these need welded in? 
1 for bank 1 and 1 for your A/F guage? The other sensor will be eliminated by the tune?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

They definitely skinmped on the IC. Other then the cheap paper gaskets and hardware it looks good.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

:thumbup: for new parts! the setup looks ok.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

the housing needs clocked on the turbo. It is just a matter of loosening the bolts and rotating it, correct? 

I would not use most of the included gaskets or hardware.


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## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

hootyburra said:


> does the n75/ mbc get plumbed back in?


 This should hopefully help out with MBC. I have my tip plugged and my n75 just zip tied away.


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## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

hootyburra said:


> the housing needs clocked on the turbo. It is just a matter of loosening the bolts and rotating it, correct?


 Correct. You can just loosen the bolts holding the brakets to the compressor side housing and should be able to clock it anyway you want to. For some reason what so ever, mine would not clock from the compressor bracket bolts so I had to loosen the 4 CHRA bolts. Which ever way works for you, just be be careful.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

:beer: :beer: for you GloryFreak 


I emailed them regarding the dented IC and no heat wrap included, it was in the item description.... 
Still waiting to here back....


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## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

hootyburra said:


> I emailed them regarding the dented IC


 Its really nothing big, just cosmetic. After you install it, your gonna have ass holes that spit up rocks on the road that well dent some of the fins anyway. All you have to do is take 2 small flat head screw drivers and even out the fins. If you are worried, pressure test the intercooler just to be safe. Cheers:beer:


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

LOOOKS GREAT! 

another detailed install would be awesome again.. to compare how easy it was and if everything just bolted up


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## alextjoe (Aug 7, 2008)

i have never been a guy to skimp out on quality when it come to modding my motors... 

i have been looking into going BT for my mk2 2004 awp 1.8t for a little bit now... 

although i do see the evidence that these turbos and other parts of the kit seem to hold up i am very hesitant to bolt this up to my 1.8t. 

also i know you have a better chance to throw a rod with a ko4 because of the crazy torque spikes at low revs but arent you guys worried about rods?? 

how much boost you guys running with these kits and what power you guys putting down??? 

i have always told myself that if i do go BT i am at the minimum putting rods in... 

im so tempted!! :laugh:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ just do it. BT or go home:thumbup::beer:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

alextjoe said:


> i have never been a guy to skimp out on quality when it come to modding my motors...
> 
> i have been looking into going BT for my mk2 2004 awp 1.8t for a little bit now...
> 
> ...


 If you read through this thread, there is a lot of information covered. 
I wouldn't go over 18 psi without rods.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

GloryFreak said:


> Its really nothing big, just cosmetic. After you install it, your gonna have ass holes that spit up rocks on the road that well dent some of the fins anyway. All you have to do is take 2 small flat head screw drivers and even out the fins. If you are worried, pressure test the intercooler just to be safe. Cheers:beer:
> 
> [/QUOTE]
> 
> ...


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

hootyburra said:


> What about the quality of these intercoolers?
> I have a godspeed now and even that feels much more solid then the one supplied in the kit?
> 
> I have the turbo clocked correctly. No I need to find a WG adapter. Would this suffice? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0359447884&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT
> ...


 what do you mean by the bend on the DP? 
are you able to buy the oil feed flange with a 6mm hole? i dont trust myself drilling it lol


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

on the phone with Sam trying to get the wastegate clearance issue squared away. 
:banghead: 

Edit 
They are sending out a wastegate adapter today.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

could anyone post a pick of the oil feed line attached to to the block?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

bl33su said:


> what do you mean by the bend on the DP?
> are you able to buy the oil feed flange with a 6mm hole? i dont trust myself drilling it lol



If you look at my pics you can see what I mean, there isn't much room between the flange and where the DP starts to angle. 

If you don't trust yourself to drill a hole I hope you don't plan on attempting to install this.


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## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

hootyburra said:


> could anyone post a pick of the oil feed line attached to to the block?


Your feed line is directly mounted below your intake manifold above the oil filter. It is ALOT easier to work with if you have the n249 crap removed. I don't know if the ebay stuff is any good (oil feed/return lines and fittings) but this is a 1.8t adapter from either pagparts or ctsturbo and the oil line is atp. Sorry for the blurry 1st picture (it was taken whenever I 1st did my bt setup). The 2nd one was taken a few moments ago.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Thank you Glory Freak
That clarifies so much, 
I have been browsing these forums like a mad man trying to figure it out. 
If you know the thread pitch of the adapter going into the filter housing you would be my hero for the night. :beer:
I found these two on pag parts, http://pagparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=83_118&products_id=431 this being 10x1
this one is not identified http://pagparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=83_118&products_id=415


For anyone needing a link for the adapter needed for the turbo if you are using the ATP feed line here it is
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T...4607069?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories
I have not verified this on my own; just going by what I have found in the thread.

Edit, It appears the supplied line will work. I printed off a thread chart, don't have a gauge, and it appears the supplied line is m10x1 on the engine side and the other side threads right onto the flange for the turbo which has a restrictor.


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## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

Can't recall the tread pitch unless I removed it and used a tap/die set to see the tread pitch, but this is the EXACT one that is on my car right now. http://www.ctsturbo.com/products/1_8T_Oil_Feed_adapter_Stock_port_to_4_Male_AN-140-5.html


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## j.burton50 (Oct 20, 2008)

hootyburra said:


> If you read through this thread, there is a lot of information covered.
> I wouldn't go over 18 psi without rods.





alextjoe said:


> i have never been a guy to skimp out on quality when it come to modding my motors...
> 
> i have been looking into going BT for my mk2 2004 awp 1.8t for a little bit now...
> 
> ...


its is by research i have learned that the 1.8t engine namely the rods are good to 300+ 350 is pretty much breaking point.. on a good tune you can run 22 psi. on stock rods. which is what i have been told by the guys at eurowise..a local shop for me that will likely do my tuning when i can affrd the software.. rods will however be my first upgrade after all this is settled anyway.. but i belive (tom correct me if im wrong) but i believe the eurodyne 630cc file runs you around 20psi out the box. so. its a pretty safe bet. :thumbup:


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## j.burton50 (Oct 20, 2008)

ps hooty.. atpturbo sales the adapter and the oil lines. they arent sold as a kit, but they sale them. i have them sitting in my pile o parts right here.. they came in a big padded bag. lol. they only took a couple days, id recommend them


ahhhh page ownage


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

If one were to go with ATP oil feed with this kit they would need? 
4an to m10x1.25 adpater for the turbo
4an to stock filter housing adapter, I believe it is m10x1 but have not verified. 
ATP 1.8t oil return line.
??


How much oil would I lose if I were to unscrew the stock oil line to see if the line supplied with the kit threads into the stock location?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^if u unplug the oil return from the turbo and dont let it fall then prob not that much, but if u unhook it from the oil pan, ur gonna lose almost all ur oil. the feed line wont have any oil in it unless ur car is running or has recently been shut off. i took mine off the turbo other day and nothin came out


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

thanks for the info. 
I meant to put the feed line, that's what hours of searching through old threads does to you 
You still answered the question though. :beer:

For anyone reading there is lots and lots and lots of good information in here:thumbup:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^no prob man. i know how u feel having to find very specific info. i did about 2 years of research before i finally picked a turbo kit to go with. i looked at the speedy racer 1 a LONG time before you guys got hold of it lol. i just like the cts one best of all and so i ended up getting that one. i bought it used so i didnt pay full retail for it. i was 2 seconds from getting the speedy racer kit, swapping the turbo and wastegate for garrett 50 trim and tial 38mm and throwing it on with my current fmic. sell speedy fmic, 50 trim, and wastegate and voila cleanish setup for WAY under $1500


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

the wastegate adapter sppedy sent out is more of an elbow. 
It puts the wastegate out over the manifold so that it will hit the head :banghead:

Looks like I am waiting till monday and getting on the phone. 

It is similar to this. http://pagparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=589


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Screw ATP, call Arnold at Pag and he can make the oil lines for you. Just fill him in on the hardware and voila.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

thats pretty gay that elbow they sent wont work. its the little stuff that will give you the biggest headaches man


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

It is a little bit of a pain, but at least they are trying to help. It goes to show they are trying to stand behind something they are selling. The money saved is also worth it imo

Here are some pics of what i am dealing with, I think a 2" straight extension or atp's flange will solve the problem. 

Also with the elbow they sent; when it was welded it warped the flange so it does not fit flush. 
I will be on the phone with them this week\and we will see how willing they are to help me solve this.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Fun times and bloody knuckles are in my future, well the bloody knuckles already started opcorn:


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## VWNando31 (Apr 1, 2007)

dud that wastegate looks like it going to hit with the head or block... u sure it dosent go the other way... i might be wrong


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I posted a thread about this; http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4987440-Will-this-fit-Wastegate-issues.

I'm not sure if it will clear or not.


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## alextjoe (Aug 7, 2008)

LOL.. :laugh: ...dude where are thinking of dumping your waste gate exhaust straight into your head/valve cover the waste gate does not bolt up that way.... you need to rotate it 90degrees and dumb it of to the side or recirculate into the exhaust

good luck tho looking good



hootyburra said:


> It is a little bit of a pain, but at least they are trying to help. It goes to show they are trying to stand behind something they are selling. The money saved is also worth it imo
> 
> Here are some pics of what i am dealing with, I think a 2" straight extension or atp's flange will solve the problem.
> 
> ...


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Actually he's got the manifold upside down there. It would be pointing at the block just like any other ATP/Clone manifold user.


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## alextjoe (Aug 7, 2008)

ya manifold upside down or turbo upside down 

the turbo charge pipe should be pointing towards the top of the engine..

this should be flipped and then wastegate adjusted after


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

The latest picture that I posted is how I have it now. 
can anyone comment on this?


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

mani is upside down homie


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> mani is upside down homie


Why does everyone keep saying this? 

How is it upside down, 8 holes on the top, 5 on the bottom....


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## alextjoe (Aug 7, 2008)

that is correct the way you have it in the pic you asked to comment off but the wg wont work i dont think kinda hard to see tho..


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> mani is upside down homie


Not sure if you're joking here or what, but you either have a poor sense of humor or are simply uninformed and should stop feeling the pressure to chime in with misinformation on even the simplest things like manifold placement.

Hootyburra, take a look at the pictures I posted on the first page of this thread and consider placing your wastegate like I did which I decided upon after considering all the options you have. Contrary to what you might think, it is not leaking and only requires that you grind about 1/16th of an inch of material off of the wastegate base.


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

hootyburra said:


> The latest picture that I posted is how I have it now.
> can anyone comment on this?


what about the dump pipe??
from earlier posts a extra flange was required so it would move it all bolt up together?

there was a picture from timC that had 2 flanges


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I have seen those; sppedyracer sent me the adapter after sending him pictures and talking with sam on the phone. 

It is obviously wrong from what everyone is saying. 
I am fine using the extra flanges; I am just trying to see how long they will help me to get things right. So far they have stood behind the product they are selling.


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## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

hootyburra said:


> I have seen those; sppedyracer sent me the adapter after sending him pictures and talking with sam on the phone.
> 
> It is obviously wrong from what everyone is saying.
> I am fine using the extra flanges; I am just trying to see how long they will help me to get things right. So far they have stood behind the product they are selling.


Your on the right path just small things to fix....turbo is clocked correct maniford is correct ....just a small wg adapater fix and youll be good ...and if the company is helping you in the process then only time will tell till the right pieces come


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I am shooting to have it done by the 28th, I still to find a tune and get/make and intake. 
What lines is everyone connecting back to the intake? I will be running a mbc and the dv; I do not trust the supplied BOV


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## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

Do NOT run BOV unless your car's MAF has been deleted with software. You will run rich as hell. :beer:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

MAF will be deleted; hell it has been unplugged for the past 1000 miles.


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

i cannnot wait til all your issues are solved..
this is awesome. would be nice if we can get a list up after of everything need to purchase outside of the kit!

does any1 run a dose pipe?? straight pipe after turbo with no MAF and NO dv or bov..
it echo's really loud

do a search on vl dose pipe on youtube


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## j.burton50 (Oct 20, 2008)

atp's oil return line, and feed line came with all the fittings i needed...to whoever was discouraging the atp oil line kit above... and just fine the angle that gets it facing the DP and have a dump tube welded in. hell with the noise. not sure bout ur emissions, but mine make dumping it illegal. go figure.


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

just realised that all australian mk4's have AGU engine codes with NO map sensors  
will it run crappy with a mafless file??


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

hootyburra said:


> I am shooting to have it done by the 28th, I still to find a tune and get/make and intake.
> What lines is everyone connecting back to the intake? I will be running a mbc and the dv; I do not trust the supplied BOV


have u thought about inmotion tuning?

they have stage 3 files for like $300US

and doing a search thru vortex they have had good feedback


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

j.burton50 said:


> atp's oil return line, and feed line came with all the fittings i needed...to whoever was discouraging the atp oil line kit above... and just fine the angle that gets it facing the DP and have a dump tube welded in. hell with the noise. not sure bout ur emissions, but mine make dumping it illegal. go figure.


Could take a screen shot of your shopping cart and post it up, or write a list of what parts you purchased? 




bl33su said:


> have u thought about inmotion tuning?
> 
> they have stage 3 files for like $300US
> 
> and doing a search thru vortex they have had good feedback


Any more info on them?


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

hootyburra said:


> Could take a screen shot of your shopping cart and post it up, or write a list of what parts you purchased?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


http://www.inmotionusa.com/vwgraphs.html

custom tune $500


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## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

bl33su said:


> http://www.inmotionusa.com/vwgraphs.html
> 
> custom tune $500


definately like that ..275 basic chip...i wonder if they let you get the basic and then upgrade and only pay the difference


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

So I see that Tim is using the m10x1.25 adapter for the oil feed, is everyone else finding this is the same thread pitch? 

Any idea what size the feed line is that is supplied? If the supplied flange is -4 why not just drill that out to .065 and use that with a quality feed line? 

Are the fitting for the the drain -10? 

I am still waiting to here back from speedy regarding the WG flange; I will probably call him between my next class.


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## j.burton50 (Oct 20, 2008)

screen shot of my shopping cart? i baught them weeks ago, came in 3 days, but it comes with the adapters, and lines u need. they are 2 seperate things, the oil feed kit, and return kit, and it specifies mk4.
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=tp&Category_Code=VVWOL


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

For anyone still following, speedy is still working with me to get the wastegate adapter issue figured out.

I have been talking with Sam on the phone and he is trying to be as helpful as possible


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

hootyburra said:


> For anyone still following, speedy is still working with me to get the wastegate adapter issue figured out.
> 
> I have been talking with Sam on the phone and he is trying to be as helpful as possible


thats great to hear.

is there any chance when your on the phone to him to have all these issues fixed with the kit and advised them of this thread maybe and how there are fair few people interested in there kit so if they have all issues solved it would be easier for them aswell.
possibly group buy


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

can anyone confirm that this kit will fit audi a3 1.8T??

same engine so should all bolt up the same right?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

not sure on that, I think you may have some fitment issues


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I have let them know about the issue, I also spoke with Zac and tried to find out the size of the supplied oil lines. He told me he has being trying to get the equipment to find this info for the past 6 months he has been working there. 

Sam told me he will reimburse me for the cost of getting the flange cut and welded to work :sly:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Ok, I received the 42dd oil pressure relocation kit yesterday. 

I used it to try and find the thread pitch going into the oil feed on the turbo. 
It is not m10x1 and it is not 1/8"npt

I am going to say that as TimC has already stated and judging by how the m10x1 starts to thread in that it is m10x1.25

I think that I am going to use the supplied feed flange since it is -4 and already has a restrictor. 
I will get a good gasket and use good hardware to fasten it to the turbo. 
Anyone see anything wrong with this? 
If you didn't go this route you would need multiple fittings in order to run a threaded restrictor. 
m10x1.25 to 1/8" then a restrictor with 1/8" m/f threads then an 1/8' to -4an adapter. To me that just seems like to many points for a leak. :thumbup: :thumbdown:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I have decided what I am going to do about the DP. 

I am going to get a vband kit and have it welded on. 
I will cut the flange off the DP, weld one side to the flange and the other to the DP. 
This should add enough space to take care of the clearance issues. 

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/prod...d=325&osCsid=d630928e17fb34a13d0ab24efd904987


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## Redapex (Mar 9, 2004)

hootyburra said:


> I have decided what I am going to do about the DP.
> 
> I am going to get a vband kit and have it welded on.
> I will cut the flange off the DP, weld one side to the flange and the other to the DP.
> ...


Hmm didn't think about that. I was about to just buy an adapter but then I realized I can just have someone weld the clamp to one of my extra flanges.










Probably a lot cheaper too... This sucker is $100


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

that sucker ^^^ will ultimately leak. definitely weld any of those flanges if you can over bolting them. ask me how I know..


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## Redapex (Mar 9, 2004)

screwball said:


> that sucker ^^^ will ultimately leak. definitely weld any of those flanges if you can over bolting them. ask me how I know..


How would the v-band leak?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Redapex said:


> How would the v-band leak?


I think he means if you bolt the flange with the vband on to the turbo. 

That is what I am going to do. So we will find out. 
safety wire ....


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Not the Vband, the flange side. Safety wire or not it won't stay sealed forever.


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## Lurch Legs (Feb 14, 2006)

Just found and read through this entire thread while sitting at work all day. Awesome thread OP! Really cool of you to do this and not go crazy with all the haters and how off topic it got a few times. Keep posting up! I am learning a lot here. :thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Lurch Legs said:


> Just found and read through this entire thread while sitting at work all day. Awesome thread OP! Really cool of you to do this and not go crazy with all the haters and how off topic it got a few times. Keep posting up! I am learning a lot here. :thumbup:


:thumbup::thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Why I didn't do this earlier I don't know. 

I decided to check the shaft play, I am able to wiggle from side to side about an 1/8". :banghead:


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

That sucks about the shaft play. Journal bearing turbos will have some shaft play, not really sure about what the upper limit should be. Does it allow the compressor or turbine to touch either of the housings? If so, it it most surely toast. 

Also, have you installed the turbo and run it yet? Or is there this much shaft play right out of the box?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

This is right out of the box


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## alextjoe (Aug 7, 2008)

side to side shat play is not that bad all turbos have some...to a certain entente for sure not sure how much yours is but if i mover about 1mm side to side then thats not bad oil pressure will stabilize that..

the shaft play that there cant be is in and out... no amount of in-out shaft play can be present.

anyways call up the company and ask them whats up!


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

no in and out play at all. 

Side to side is very minimal. 
had a buddy who is very knowledgeable in the FI scene look at it and he said no worries.


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## Redapex (Mar 9, 2004)

Got a date with a local fabricator this weekend to install the vband on the downpipe and run the wastegate into the downpipe as well.


----------



## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

Well, this sucks to have to report (here come the "I told you so's") but I've had my first real failure at about 11,000 miles. Drum roll please....it was the...wastegate diaphragm. The sucker blew a hole in its sides like a ruptured colon or something. 

Here's the deal, and I do accept most responsibility. Basically, the diaphragm blew out almost immediately after switching from a manual boost controller (which as you know is only connected at the bottom port of the wastegate) to an electronic boost controller (which is connected at both the top and bottom ports). Here is a picture that shows the disassembled and turned upside down wastegate with bulging and ruptured diaphragm...



















The diaphragm could apparently hold a lot of boost (at least up to about 22psi) when pushed on from the bottom port, but when pressure was applied from the top (by the electronic boost controller) that was its weakness and it went POP! 

Probably making this worse was more of ignorance because I was only running a 6psi spring in the wastegate. I now know that you shouldn't try to increase the boost to more than double the wastegate spring pressure. This was making the electronic boost controller send 16psi to the upper chamber of the wastegate in a frantic effort to hold 22psi at the manifold. If I had been smart and installed a 14.5psi spring in the wastegate then the EBC would have had to only send about 8psi to the top of the wastegate and the diaphragm might have survived. 

Either way, be warned, if you are using a manual boost controller you are probably okay, but if you use an electronic boost controller, make sure you put in a stronger spring. If you don't know what the hell I'm talking about, do some more research on how boost controllers and wastegates work.

At any rate, I'm a little heartbroken and I have to go bury my head in shame for a little while. Also, I'm now rocking the real deal, a Tial 38mm unit, that I bought on Ebay for 224 bucks shipped, not bad!:thumbup:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Thanks for the updates. 

Do you have any idea what the other springs that are included are good for?


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## Lurch Legs (Feb 14, 2006)

Thanks for the update and the information! This thread is chock full of good information on more than just ebay parts. Appreciate it! :thumbup:


Edit: Quick question. Why not try again with the same wastegate but a stronger spring? You know, to see if it can hold up when with an electronic boost controller that is set up perfectly. Just wondering, thanks.


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Why gamble on the tune?? Maestro FTW:beer:


----------



## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

here's a teeny tiny pic of my WG adapter - ATP manifold - Garrett 50 trim - PAG adapter


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Screwball, thank you for that pic, That is the same idea I was thinking for having something welded. 

Can anyone clarify what springs are for what boost that are included with the WG?


----------



## Redapex (Mar 9, 2004)

hootyburra said:


> Screwball, thank you for that pic, That is the same idea I was thinking for having something welded.
> 
> Can anyone clarify what springs are for what boost that are included with the WG?


Its a 7psi pre installed... I run a MBC so I dont know what the others are.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Redapex said:


> Its a 7psi pre installed... I run a MBC so I dont know what the others are.


 Thanks,
I saw that Tim had his fail, I will be running a mbc also, just wasn't sure if it would be better to run a higher psi spring even with the mbc.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I am going to have this flange welded on, what should I do about that hole? 









have it plugged, or get it tapped and thread a bolt in?


----------



## Redapex (Mar 9, 2004)

hootyburra said:


> I am going to have this flange welded on, what should I do about that hole?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thats hole for the external wastegate. Dont weld the vband to the turbo just buy another flange and weld it to that.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Redapex said:


> Thats hole for the external wastegate. Dont weld the vband to the turbo just buy another flange and weld it to that.


could you elaborate on this? 
The flange will cover this hole anyway, also If I were to use the flange wouldn't it be prone to leaking?


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

not if u use a gasket:thumbup:


----------



## Redapex (Mar 9, 2004)

hootyburra said:


> could you elaborate on this?
> The flange will cover this hole anyway, also If I were to use the flange wouldn't it be prone to leaking?


Theres a bypass hole that runs through the housing for the external wastegate which would normally block off the hole and allow the turbo to spin. It needs to be covered either by flange or weld something over.


----------



## jkallhoff (May 9, 2010)

i just read all 19 pages and i think it fried my brain.:screwy: absolutely intense, keep it up :laugh:, sorry bout the waste gate lol


----------



## MrMark4 GLi (Jul 26, 2010)

srry, but i dont feel like reading 20 pages... cliffs?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^Nope Start Reading :thumbdown:


----------



## Lurch Legs (Feb 14, 2006)

Yah, if you have some free time at work or something go for it. I did. Best thread I have gone over in a long while. Well worth the read.


----------



## Redapex (Mar 9, 2004)

Just a feeler for anyone interested. I may be selling my setup. Right now im running 15psi and its pulling pretty good but I dont think this BT game is for me. 

My setup is as follows: 
EMUSA Manifold 
EMUSA T3/T4 .63 50 trim 
EMUSA Downpipe 
All lines included 

Stuff I've added: 
3" ATP inlet - $199 
Vband flange on turbo - $100 
Labor to convert downpipe to vband and custom wastegate routing - $245 
580cc Deka Injectors $150 

PM me if interested... I'll do my best to cut you a good deal but I dont want to lose my ass on this either... We can trade for your stock setup plus cash or just sell outright.


----------



## MrMark4 GLi (Jul 26, 2010)

Big_Tom said:


> ^^^Nope Start Reading :thumbdown:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Ok, I will weld the vband to the flange and the other side to the DP. 

How far down the DP is everyone mounting the bung for A/F gauges? 

Anyone know the different spring rates for the WG?

Has anyone noticed the hole on the dp flange is probably only 2.5" but the piping is 3".....


----------



## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

hootyburra said:


> Ok, I will weld the vband to the flange and the other side to the DP.
> 
> How far down the DP is everyone mounting the bung for A/F gauges?
> 
> ...


comon boi!! 
i wanna hear and see your setup scream  get a move on haha :laugh:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

bl33su said:


> comon boi!!
> i wanna hear and see your setup scream  get a move on haha :laugh:


Hoping to have it done by this weekend. 

Dropping off parts tomorrow to get welded. 
Have the ECU. Eurodyne 630. 
Have everything else I need


----------



## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

hootyburra said:


> Anyone know the different spring rates for the WG?


BAR PSI Description 

0.250 3.626 Small Yellow 
0.400 5.802 Small Red 
0.500 7.252 Small Green 
0.600 8.702 Small Blue 
0.700 10.153 Large Yellow 
0.800 11.603 Large Red 
0.900 13.053 Large Green 
1.000 14.504 Large Blue 
1.100 15.954 ** ( ex. Lg Yellow + Sm Red ) Small + Large
1.200 17.405 ** ( ex. Lg Red + Sm Red ) Small + Large
1.300 18.855 ** ( ex. Lg Green + Sm Red ) Small + Large
1.400 20.305 ** ( ex. Lg Blue + Sm Red ) Small + Large
1.500 21.756 ** ( ex. Lg Blue + Sm Green ) Small + Large
1.600 23.206 ** ( ex. Lg Blue + Sm Blue ) Small + Large

Didn't know if this was the info you were looking for. I got it from: http://www.tialmedia.com/documents/w3_tial_38_sp.pdf


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

thanks for that info, problem is, it's a generic gate so the springs aren't color coded. 

I was hoping to find what to run to get 15 psi. 

I picked up a turboxs mbc so I will be using that instead of just running off the WG


----------



## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

Redapex said:


> Just a feeler for anyone interested. I may be selling my setup. Right now im running 15psi and its pulling pretty good but I dont think this BT game is for me.
> 
> My setup is as follows:
> EMUSA Manifold
> ...




How much you talking for the kit itself shipped to 19063


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

starting the install tonight. 
The monsoon tomorrow should make things interesting


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Sweet! Come Join The BT Fam:thumbup:


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## mikeg9876 (Dec 10, 2007)

Hey guys i'm looking at picking up one of the ebay kits to see how well it's made and try and save on BT build, just not happy with the 4000 price tag for other kits.
I noticed on ebay there is a bunch of different kits out there for our cars, i have a jetta mk4 and wanted to know which ebay kit seems to fit the best and has the least amount of issues? besides the oil return lines and what not


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

READ THE DAMN THREAD


Wow getting the stock stuff out is a PITA. I really hope it is easier going back in. 

Took a coolant bath removing the bolt from the block.


----------



## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

hootyburra said:


> starting the install tonight.
> The monsoon tomorrow should make things interesting


Danville pa ain't far from me but how is the install coming along .


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

not to bad. no major issue yet besides the DP being way shorter then I anticipated


----------



## sponcar (Feb 5, 2010)

Sorry guys I just read the first page of comments and the writte up as well...
but I wonder if anyone running this ebay set up has a video of how it runs...?
just curious...


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

hooty I'm from the indiantown gap area if you need any help let me know, I wanna know how this turns out.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

screwball said:


> here's a teeny tiny pic of my WG adapter - ATP manifold - Garrett 50 trim - PAG adapter



I hope that gasket didn't break on ya. I went through 2 of them before I decided not to use one anymore. No more problems since then!


----------



## Redapex (Mar 9, 2004)

sponcar said:


> Sorry guys I just read the first page of comments and the writte up as well...
> but I wonder if anyone running this ebay set up has a video of how it runs...?
> just curious...


I'll get one for you...


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

got everything installed. 
Need to find some 3" piping so I can finish the exhaust. Woke the neighborhood up at 2:30 this morning/last night. :laugh:

Have only drove it up the road and back. It is so different not having boost early. Can't wait to find some piping and connect the exhaust so I can drive it past the police station where I live to the main road.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> hooty I'm from the indiantown gap area if you need any help let me know, I wanna know how this turns out.


Could have used some help getting the mani tight :banghead:
Luckily my dad had some map gas to bend a wrench, and then the patience to tighten them

edited for my retarded spelling, :beer:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

well new tires are going to be needed sooner then expected.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ LOL i quickly realized that too lol. good tires are a must now


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

for anyone thinking about purchasing this; have a good amount of mechanical and fabrication knowledge. 
It will need some modification to fit correctly. 
I am currently running 15psi on a eurodyne 630 file and it feels great. I have a leak at the exhaust flange, I had a vband welded on the space the DP over and the flange warped, I will have it machined flat this week. 
Also I had to have the DP cut and rewelded so it would fit under the car, it was angled towards the rear driver side wheel. 
You will need to use extra pipe to connect to the rest of the exhaust. 
The placement of the o2 sensor puts it on the bottom of the dp. 
The wg will not fit without an adapter, speedy sent me one but it didn't work, I had this cut and rewelded to look similar to pag's adapter. the flanges on this will need to be machined flat also. 

I would not use the supplied oil lines, the return definitely not. 

I used hardware that I ordered from paragonproducts and fastenal instead of the supplied nuts, bolts, studs... I can get thread sizes later. 

boost comes on hard, 2nd gear is a joke at WOT
Here is a crappy cell phone vid at 14 psi


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ Looks good man. u think 15 psi is fun wait till u see 20 to 23 psi


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> ^^^ Looks good man. u think 15 psi is fun wait till u see 20 to 23 psi


That will be after rods./


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## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

hootyburra said:


> READ THE DAMN THREAD
> 
> 
> Wow getting the stock stuff out is a PITA. I really hope it is easier going back in.
> ...


lmao, sorry dude, that was just funny....Next time, drain the coolant


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## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

hootyburra said:


> That will be after rods./


Whens the better vid coming the car looked good for 15psi...also can you post up some pics of the setup and other misc stuff you did to get the whole kit to work ?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

xrecklesdriverx said:


> Whens the better vid coming the car looked good for 15psi...also can you post up some pics of the setup and other misc stuff you did to get the whole kit to work ?


when it stops raining and I can get traction. :laugh:

I will get some pics later in the week, as well as a list. 
Pretty busy with classes this week

edit here is a cell pic I had















k04 v 50 trim.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

looks pretty solid under there


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

fitting the intake was a pita


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

i bet it was lol. it looks awfully close to those coolant lines. mine sat back enough for me to get the intake on easily.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> i bet it was lol. it looks awfully close to those coolant lines. mine sat back enough for me to get the intake on easily.


The coolant lines were bent after that pic was taken. 
Will get some good pics up later this week. 
I used a 90 3" coupler, had to cut the side that attaches to the turbo about 1.5" shorter so that it would fit.


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

18T_BT said:


> I hope that gasket didn't break on ya. I went through 2 of them before I decided not to use one anymore. No more problems since then!


It's been good actually although I'm sure it'll blow out at some point. I'm getting as much crap welded together as possible soon which would include the gate to the adapter and some other flanges. Running mafless w/ slight exhaust leaks on a car you daily at 100 miles a day is getting annoying.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

screwball said:


> It's been good actually although I'm sure it'll blow out at some point. I'm getting as much crap welded together as possible soon which would include the gate to the adapter and some other flanges. Running mafless w/ slight exhaust leaks on a car you daily at 100 miles a day is getting annoying.


That is why I am getting the WG adapter and dp flange machined flat. 

Will be doing that this week. 
As well as re-torquing


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

I did that several months ago, but I"m having bolts backing out on me now w/ nordlocks.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

screwball said:


> I did that several months ago, but I"m having bolts backing out on me now w/ nordlocks.


interesting that is what everyone swears by....

I used copper crush nuts from paragonproducts


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## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

hootyburra said:


> interesting that is what everyone swears by....
> 
> I used copper crush nuts from paragonproducts


I had the same issue until I upgraded to copper crush nuts my self


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

4 and 3


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## Redapex (Mar 9, 2004)

> My setup is as follows:
> EMUSA Manifold
> EMUSA T3/T4 .63 50 trim
> EMUSA Downpipe
> ...


 Kit is officially for sale my main FS post is $950 but I'll give it to you guys for $800 obo. The catch is I'll will need about 2 weeks to pull it off the car and ship it out. 

Issues still having: 
- 1 bolt keeps backing out of the manifold causing it to leak. Can probably be fixed with some locktite. 
- Same thing with the turbo but it does not leak at all. 
- DP has been Vbanded but still sits a little to the right and rattles on the power steering rack. I had a piece of 3" tubing bent to mate to any 3" catback. 

Other than that it pulls hard, friend with APR Stage 3 rode along and said it feels about the same as his. This setup will keep up with my roommates VQHR 350Z at 15psi. He dynoed at 270hp. 
Im selling it because im a student, and ive dumped way more than I should have into this setup almost $1100 total. That and I destroyed my oilpan last night and that was the last straw I just want a quiet car I can drive again I think im done with this I wanna go fast thing.


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## 03redgti (Feb 18, 2006)

screwball said:


> I did that several months ago, but I"m having bolts backing out on me now w/ nordlocks.


 im havin the same problem right now man =\ car sounds like a tractor when they come out lol


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## Redapex (Mar 9, 2004)

Redapex said:


> Issues still having:
> - 1 bolt keeps backing out of the manifold causing it to leak. Can probably be fixed with some locktite.


 


03redgti said:


> im havin the same problem right now man =\ car sounds like a tractor when they come out lol


 
Hmmmmm..... Think we found another problem.opcorn:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Redapex said:


> Issues still having:
> - 1 bolt keeps backing out of the manifold causing it to leak. Can probably be fixed with some locktite.
> - Same thing with the turbo but it does not leak at all.





03redgti said:


> im havin the same problem right now man =\ car sounds like a tractor when they come out lol


 

Loctite will burn off in seconds. 
Which is it that is backing out? 
What hardware are you using? 
Did you retorque, I was able to get things alot tighter after a few heat cycles. 




Redapex said:


> Hmmmmm..... Think we found another problem.opcorn:


 Are you saying another problem with the kit is the bolts backing out? 


I put 360 miles on it this weekend, about 600 since I have installed it. For the money spent I am happy. Yes modifications are needed, if you are not mechanically inclined and have some fabrication skills I would not attempt this. 
I still have a small leak at the v-band that I had welded to the DP. I will be fixing that once I put the 3" exhaust on. 
So far I am happy, time will tell. 
I emailed speedy last Wednesday regarding the flanges needing machined flat and other modifications that need to be done; I still have not gotten a response, he was always bad at replying, Phone was the best method and I will probably call him today.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Here are a bunch of pictures.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Still trying to work with Sam at emusa about fixing the issues with the dp, wg and other small things. 

If we get enough people to call I think we can get somewhere. 

The number is 317.337.0800


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## first9t! (Jul 13, 2009)

watching as I may be doing this soon :thumbup:


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## j.burton50 (Oct 20, 2008)

so my question to the last picture post is.....whats the point of the diverter down there?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

j.burton50 said:


> so my question to the last picture post is.....whats the point of the diverter down there?


 relocated to the cold side. This way it is getting air that has already been cooled, prolonging the life and better response


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## j.burton50 (Oct 20, 2008)

guess that makes sense. can someone tell me what kinda plug i will need for the coolant port. as slow as i have been pulling parts together im lacking like 2 things. 

also, did you install it yourself.. hope so.. lol did you have access to a lift, cuz im not sure if i will or not, and im tryin to plan like i do not have access to a lift so i will atleast have a decent backup


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## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

so tell me where did u get that in take from Hooty? or what are the measurements


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

j.burton50 said:


> guess that makes sense. can someone tell me what kinda plug i will need for the coolant port. as slow as i have been pulling parts together im lacking like 2 things.
> 
> also, did you install it yourself.. hope so.. lol did you have access to a lift, cuz im not sure if i will or not, and im tryin to plan like i do not have access to a lift so i will atleast have a decent backup


 I used a black vacuum cap I had laying round, you can take the fitting out and replace it with a straight piece. 

The install was done myself using ramps and jack stands, my dad tightened some of the upper bolts on the mani, I was losing patience. 



xrecklesdriverx said:


> so tell me where did u get that in take from Hooty? or what are the measurements


 The intake was a 3" 90 degree piece of aluminum from siliconeintakes, the coupler was a 3" 90. 
I cut a few inches off the side that goes to the turbo.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

just received a partial refund of 20 from Sam, I asked multiple times if he needed/ wanted pictures so he could resolve issues with the kit. Looks like he just cares about making the buyer somewhat happy and keeping his good feedback. 
It is too late to leave feedback now, waited to long, I would give it neutral do to fitment issues and modifaction/ fabrication to make it fit.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

The amount of money and especially time to modify any of these ebay experimented parts, was it worth it? Or would you rather pay a little more up front and the install is smooth like butta?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

18T_BT said:


> The amount of money and especially time to modify any of these ebay experimented parts, was it worth it? Or would you rather pay a little more up front and the install is smooth like butta?


 So far I would say it was worth it, I like a challenge every now and then. 
I am still probably 1500-2g under what I would have paid for a name brand kit. 

Now when I have the money I will be going with a tried and true name brand turbo, but at low boost levels and I stock bottom end I am more then happy with this.


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## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

yeah man i watched 2 builds and compeltely ready to buy this kit ...hooty and timc both had success in this kit and hopefully i will too ....after seeing this im ready for it


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Trying to piece this together; wanting to make sure i have everything. So far this is what i have: 

*T3/T4 Turbo Kit---$599.99 + $80.00 shipping* 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-J...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories 

*ATP Oil Return Line Kit---$82.00 + $10.55 shipping* 

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...&Product_Code=ATP-VVW-068&Category_Code=VVWOL 

*38mm Wastegate Adapter for Log Manifold---$90.00 + $10.95 shipping* 

http://pagparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=589 

*Cobra Head Rubber 90*---$22.64 + $10.36 shipping* 

http://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=90CB30&Category_Code=CHEW 

*Unitronic Software---$~890.00* 

My question, anything else i will need to 100% complete this *for just the turbo kit*? I dont think im missing anything, but like i said, im trying to get this as complete as possible so when i do it im not missing anything.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Zneith said:


> Trying to piece this together; wanting to make sure i have everything. So far this is what i have:
> 
> *T3/T4 Turbo Kit---$599.99 + $80.00 shipping*
> 
> ...


 Inlet 
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/prod...id=36&osCsid=6a72267fa9156023e2d99003dad6a4db 
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/prod...d=750&osCsid=c5df6f8d5629b926f8586aa0574f19db 

As far as the wastegate adapter, speedy sent me one for free. I had it cut and rewelded to work for $12. It looks very similar to one you have linked. 
ATP also sells an adapter. 

If you read through you will see you are going to need to adjust the downpipe. 
I cut the bolt flange off and had a 3" v band welded to that and to the DP. I also had to have the downpipe cut and rotated because it was way off under the car. 
Luckily there is a welding shop a few minutes from me. 

I would look at eurodyne, just like you want the 50 trim now since the k03 isn't doing it you will want more down the road. maestro will take care of this. 

What are you planning on doing for fueling? ? 
An oil pressure gauge and a/f gauge, assuming you already have a boost gauge would be a great idea. 




Something else I just remembered about the downpipe. 
The hole in the 5 bolt flange is only 2.5", so is the exhaust on the turbo.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

According to Tim, he used the flanges and it worked. I thought about doing that for a temp solution. Also, the 2' Mandrel Bent Aluminum 90° Bend, 3.0, is that necessary?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

The flanges will work, but I can tell you after having to take the DP off multiple times while fitting things those v-bands are awesome. 


depending on how you are mounting the filter and what you plan on doing for an intake. 
If you are running mafless and deleting all the emissions stuff you wont need any ports on the intake..... 
There is alot more then just buying the parts and bolting it on.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

I understand that, but I do not plan on doing software for a little bit yet. It will be a couple months. After that i will run mafless, just cannot yet.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Zneith said:


> I understand that, but I do not plan on doing software for a little bit yet. It will be a couple months. After that i will run mafless, just cannot yet.


then wait and do it right all at once


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## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

hootyburra said:


> then wait and do it right all at once


I didn't have "proper" software on my GLI for 8 months...money was tight and I couldn't afford it....Then again, I didn't go all crazy with boost either. I had unitronics stage 2+ on my car with the 380cc injector file. Car ran fine, but then again this was my experience. Also, I keep my eye on air/fuel ratios too! ....I only ran 15 psi without software and rods.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

That is what im planning on doing. I dont think ill run 15psi, most likely a little less than that just to be safe. Ill do software and rods at once. Thanks for the tip:thumbup:


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

im planning on going this route too.. just use current software and run it on low boost til the software is done.

still will be fun to drive i recon. just keep an eye on the AFR


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## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

bl33su said:


> im planning on going this route too.. just use current software and run it on low boost til the software is done.
> 
> still will be fun to drive i recon. just keep an eye on the AFR


I tried 7 psi and I got bored with it after about a month or so. I was racing my buddy's Infinity G35 and he beat me by a hair, turned the boost up to 15 psi (still safe) and it was like he was sitting still  ...then again, 25 psi will blow your mind!


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

GloryFreak said:


> I tried 7 psi and I got bored with it after about a month or so. I was racing my buddy's Infinity G35 and he beat me by a hair, turned the boost up to 15 psi (still safe) and it was like he was sitting still  ...then again, 25 psi will blow your mind!


 great 2 hear!

so like with your uni stage 2+ did u use 380 injectors? so basically like a k04 kit but you had the t3/t4

i sure wouldnt mind 15psi


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

bl33su said:


> great 2 hear!
> 
> so like with your uni stage 2+ did u use 380 injectors? so basically like a k04 kit but you had the t3/t4
> 
> i sure wouldnt mind 15psi


If you read his sig he is running a BT file with rods.


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## Redapex (Mar 9, 2004)

bl33su said:


> great 2 hear!
> 
> so like with your uni stage 2+ did u use 380 injectors? so basically like a k04 kit but you had the t3/t4
> 
> i sure wouldnt mind 15psi


Im running 15psi on APR Stage 2, a 3" MAF and 580s.


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## TM87 (Dec 30, 2008)

A very good read,minus the few annoying complainers you keep comparing apple and oranges.Im sure the $4000 kits will last longer,produce more hp,but thats why they are $4k.These ebay kits are cheap fun,for a normal use.

Its really sad when you have a reputable shop/vendor trying to compete or diss an ebay product.Like seriously?Your kit better last longer then the darn car for the price of it.saying stuff like "you dont beat on it enough" is retarded.As shown a in begining of the thread,your products dont hold abuse either.CTS comented in the thread,but didnt have a pissing contest cuz they know their product is better.They know that their product is better,so no need to voice an opinion about it.

I compare these kits to raceland.They are not H&R,KW's,Eibach but they get the job done.
So the first faliure is around 11k mi,maybe even longer if you dont mess with things.Thats pretty good.Im sure they are not made for dragstrip or race track,but they will get you around town for cheap.If and when they go bad,you dont feel bad cuz you only payed about a $1k for everything.

Too bad i cant find a kit for a passat,but im sure its there.My close to 200k 1.8t doesnt need a $4k set up.


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## Tofik (May 7, 2007)

Is it safe to ssume I would need rods wih a t3/t4 turbo? Just saw this thread and it looks semi promising


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Tofik said:


> Is it safe to ssume I would need rods wih a t3/t4 turbo? Just saw this thread and it looks semi promising


:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:


Did you read the thread

Did you search

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4893298-Eurodyne-630cc-file-max-boost-stock-rods


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ LOL i almost posted a similar response bout 20 mins ago Hooty :thumbup:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

If you run a low setting of boost you wont need rods. You want to go faster? I'd do rods rather than gambling your engine.


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## gulfgti18 (Feb 24, 2010)

wow... hell of a write up. thanks everybody for all the help and information. after reading this thread, my bt build will start with ebay. i have a guy in a neighboring city that rebuilds turbos. after i purchase my kit, ill take it to him and have everything checked out and have it balanced, just to be safe. and soon after the BT, comes rods, then after that, gonna beat by buddies evo :laugh:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

you guys sure ebay items are the best place to get this kind of kits? I mean, 900c egt's, 20+ psi boost. Want it to last more than a couple months, right?


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## alextjoe (Aug 7, 2008)

i have followed this thread for a while but after compiling all the info i just see much more con's then pro's to go with this cheap stuff..

i really wanted to jump on the cheap bt kit but i just cant do it to my motor and im just not that cheap

so im going with the quality and safe way

with all the goddies

-gt3071r
-brute rods
-arp head stud kit
-all gaskets inc/ head gasket
-630cc injectors
-fuel pump
-supertech valve springs with keepers
-t3 turbo manifold
-tial 38mm WG
-tial 50mm BOV

etc

its right at 4k in parts..not bad if you ask me at least il have the piece of mind

already have eurodyne software/FMIC/Exhaust so dont have to worry about that.


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## Redapex (Mar 9, 2004)

alextjoe said:


> i have followed this thread for a while but after compiling all the info i just see *much more con's then pro's to go with this cheap stuff..*
> 
> i really wanted to jump on the cheap bt kit but i just cant do it to my motor and im just not that cheap


Im going to have to agree with you on this one...


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## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

bl33su said:


> great 2 hear!
> 
> so like with your uni stage 2+ did u use 380 injectors? so basically like a k04 kit but you had the t3/t4
> 
> i sure wouldnt mind 15psi


Yes that correct. I was using the 380cc Genisis injectors and stage 2+ file until I had enough money for an upgrade...took me a couple months with bills left and right.


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## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

hootyburra said:


> :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:
> 
> 
> Did you read the thread
> ...


lol, my stock rods are in the pic in that thread, lol


----------



## Mr.Tan (Jun 9, 2004)

Tofik said:


> Is it safe to ssume I would need rods wih a t3/t4 turbo? Just saw this thread and it looks semi promising


nope, not at all... with the tq curve of a t3/t4 they are not necessary. If you running something like a 2871 or bigger then yes, but for that turbo no.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

^ hes right to an extent. If your gunna push 20 psi *with tuning,* you prolly will want to do rods, inless as i said before you want to gamble your engine vs. getting rods. If you dont wanna do rods, run 15-18 pounds and call it a day


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

20 psi is fine for stock rods on the .63ar hotside, but no more than that on them:thumbup:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

So if someone has like APR Stage 2 tuning with this turbo setup, they should only run like 15 pounds? because of fueling and such?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

APR stage 2 isn't for BT. why skimp out on the tune, it's more important than the hardware IMO:thumbup:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

I have APR Stg2 now, ill upgrade eventually. I guess the question i have is can you run that software @ 15 psi with the t3/t4 without any probs? or do you suggest staying low at like 7-8 psi till bt tuning?


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Zneith said:


> I have APR Stg2 now, ill upgrade eventually. I guess the question i have is can you run that software @ 15 psi with the t3/t4 without any probs? or do you suggest staying low at like 7-8 psi till bt tuning?


Here you go, I asked the same question; sav also has a diy on this somewhere. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4999061-Can-I-get-away-with-it


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## Redapex (Mar 9, 2004)

Zneith said:


> I have APR Stg2 now, ill upgrade eventually. I guess the question i have is can you run that software @ 15 psi with the t3/t4 without any probs? or do you suggest staying low at like 7-8 psi till bt tuning?



....



Redapex said:


> Im running 15psi on APR Stage 2, a 3" MAF and 580s.


----------



## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

dont have a 3" maf and stock injectors....


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## Elballoonrat (Jun 25, 2003)

i've been running the same turbo, manifold and wstegate for 15,000 miles now on my a4, no problems. I have a thread on it as well if anyone is looking for more info on ebay parts, just search my name.

glad to see someone else doing this. :thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

mimnd sharing some links?


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

Elballoonrat said:


> i've been running the same turbo, manifold and wstegate for 15,000 miles now on my a4, no problems. I have a thread on it as well if anyone is looking for more info on ebay parts, just search my name.
> 
> glad to see someone else doing this. :thumbup:


 tried searching for all your threads you started and didnt find any relating to the ebay parts turbo build..


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## mikelavine (Dec 12, 2009)

can someone send me the link for the oil lines and tip from atp? ive been looking on the website but cant find them?


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...&Product_Code=ATP-VVW-068&Category_Code=VVWOL

^ oil return lines. The tip im not sure


----------



## mikelavine (Dec 12, 2009)

Zneith said:


> http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...&Product_Code=ATP-VVW-068&Category_Code=VVWOL
> 
> ^ oil return lines. The tip im not sure


thanks! what about supply? for some reason i cant find anything i look for on their website..


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=tp&Category_Code=VVWOL


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

what did you guys do for intake pipe? i see that tim used the rubber 90 to go off the turbo, but what about the rest? I'm assuming stock does not fit. If im going to run 10psi w/ apr stg 2 for now, do i stick with the stock maf? stock intake?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

*Part failure!*

First part to fail. 
Was loosening it and it snapped right off. 
Called Sam and he says he will contact his supervisor. I'm not holding my breath. 









Edit. Sam was very helpful and willing to ship it out asap, he wanted to charge for the part. I decided to go with this one. 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T...8096122?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item20b48d0c7a


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ Damn! i woulda never expected that one! if anything Pag, ATP, and gazillions of others have that fitting for not to bad of price


----------



## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

yeah ive seen that on pparts for not too much. Anyone have any insight for me with this intake question?


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

yea, siliconeintakes.com. 

The problem is you are still running the maf so you will have to fab it up using 2.5" pipe and couplers.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

the maf still needs to be there though correct? until tuning...


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

yea u still need the MAF if ur not on a BT Tune


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Needing the maf is not necessary but it's not a bad idea. On stock programming at 10lbs you'd be fine w/ the bigger turbo.


----------



## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Thats what i planned for. Ok, for the intake side then, what size piping and how much do ya think i need?


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

I'm meant stock software, not chipped software. You can tweak your APR flash w/ their tuning module and by reading several of the threads on here that illustrate what you need to do.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Alright to just clear this up, im planning on using the turbo kit that timc and hooty have used. My question is for the intake side: Should i get a silicone coupler that is a 90* angle that goes from 3"od and tapers to 2.5"od? If i have that i can use 2.5" piping to go meet the maf, but i also need to know how much piping ill need. If i go to an apr dealership and get vtune, i know i can tweak it. Is there a charge for this? Im sure i can find a diy on tweaking for the turbo. Any other help or suggestions? Thanks for your time already.:thumbup:

Also, im on stock injectors, so i probably will not tweak much if at anything. Thanks again


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## Redapex (Mar 9, 2004)

Zneith said:


> Alright to just clear this up, im planning on using the turbo kit that timc and hooty have used. My question is for the intake side: Should i get a silicone coupler that is a 90* angle that goes from 3"od and tapers to 2.5"od? If i have that i can use 2.5" piping to go meet the maf, but i also need to know how much piping ill need. If i go to an apr dealership and get vtune, i know i can tweak it. Is there a charge for this? Im sure i can find a diy on tweaking for the turbo. Any other help or suggestions? Thanks for your time already.:thumbup:
> 
> Also, im on stock injectors, so i probably will not tweak much if at anything. Thanks again


I dont think I would even try this on stock injectors honestly...Unless you're going to be limited to like 7-10psi. I was damn near maxing out my factory injectors on my k03. As far as vtune the upgrade itself is free but some shops will charge labor... I have vtune but usually use unisettings instead, just snag that. As far as the maf piping you might as well just go 3" all the way in. Theres a guy on ebay that sells a single piece MAF housing in 3" for like 50 bucks, thats what I used and its actually really nice.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Stock injectors @ 10psi will be ok. Now if i do get the 3 inch maf from that guy, do i still need piping?


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## Redapex (Mar 9, 2004)

Zneith said:


> Stock injectors @ 10psi will be ok. Now if i do get the 3 inch maf from that guy, do i still need piping?


Yeah... Once you do the 90 off of the turbo you will still need an inlet that makes another 90 and then goes for about 10" (dont quote me on that). I just used the ATP inlet 3" all the way through. Its got provisions for the PCV, DV, and one more that I just capped off. The only issue is the damn thing is $200 and the PCV bungs are on the wrong side... You can still make it work (run under the inlet pipe and get a 90deg adapter for autozone) but for $200 im sure there are better options out there. Good luck:thumbup:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Any link for the inlet ill need? So i need the 90* and an inlet? Any other preferable options? If i need the 90* and the inlet, do i still need piping?

For the maf, would it be ok to just go with a vr6 maf? If i can get an inlet for the t3/t4, that maf should be able to fit. correct?


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## Redapex (Mar 9, 2004)

Zneith said:


> Any link for the inlet ill need? So i need the 90* and an inlet? Any other preferable options? If i need the 90* and the inlet, do i still need piping?
> 
> For the maf, would it be ok to just go with a vr6 maf? If i can get an inlet for the t3/t4, that maf should be able to fit. correct?


Yeah I'll snag the link for you tomorrow... Too many shots tonight But the VR6 maf is 3" as well so either one will work just fine. They're the same size and that 3" machined piece is pretty much the same price. But yes you will need piping either way if its 3".


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

look back a few pages at the picture of the pipe I used. 
Got a 90 degree 3" piece from silicone intakes. silicone 90 on the turbo, cut a few inches off the pipe and that goes .... hold on I'll find a thread I made 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5041000-Some-questions-after-my-first-install.-50trim

pics are somewhere in there


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

So you used a 3" 90* silicone piece and aluminum piping to meet with your maf? (if not your maf then your air filter). How much piping do you recommend i purchase w/ couplers? Any pictures of the cold side all hooked up? I'm not sure if i will go with atp's inlet or not; hard to justify $200 bucks for it when i can go this current route. Any other insight will help along with pictures. Visual learner unfortunately.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I'll get pics when I get everything back together. 

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/prod...d=750&osCsid=d88c5192883c774ab7ce68b0f3839976
That pipe with a 3" 90 off the turbo. 
No MAF. AEM Dryflow.

EDIT. 
This 








As you can see I trimmed the side that attaches to the turbo to help with fitment, you can see in the pics how tight it is. 










And that. That is my intake.

EDIT again, around $40. I already had the filter. 
You can just drill holes and add ports for anything you would need. 
Like I said many times. Have some fabrication skills if you attempting this. I was not about to pay $200 for an inlet. I made that mistake already buying the fancy silicone one for the k04:banghead:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

So you used that piping in that link with a 90* 3" inlet for the turbo, and a filter on the end to finish the intake side? For now, I'm going to use the maf; its possible to still use what you did, but incorporate the maf as well? Sorry for all the questions just trying to get this 100% before i take the plunge.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I dont see why you could't just put a coupler on the end then the maf then the filter. 
I ran that same 3" filter with the stock maf with the old setup, the clamp easily got tight enough for it to fit snug. I knew I would be upgrading and using a 3" intake so I saw no need to buy 2 filters.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Yeah I see, just looking at some ideas of what people have done differently. If that pipe is too long im sure i can get a coupler to attach the maf and filter to that piping. Only thing is my maf isnt 3", guess ill need to get one. If i just take the maf out completely, will this cause any problems? Pretty much run the exact same thing you are; i just do not have eurodyne. (apr stg 2)


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

APR will read from the MAF to calculate a/f. If you are running the 50 trim off of it I wouldn't/ 

Without out it you will run rich, I created a thread about this, can I get away with it. Search for that. 

IMO I would save the money and buy a used file, picked up my eurodyne 630 for 600. 
Then sell the APR... g/l.


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## Redapex (Mar 9, 2004)

Looks like I may be heading to the track this Friday for the first time on the new setup. Previous best was a [email protected] on my K03s... Should be fun :laugh:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Ah report back with some numbers.... interested to see what they are. @hooty: i guess i could try and find someone selling it used, id still need a fuel pump and injectors.

EDIT: With that silicone 3", and that 3" pipe, i can mate that to my maf right? just get a tapered coupler from 3"--->2.5" or whatever it would be?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Zneith said:


> EDIT: With that silicone 3", and that 3" pipe, i can mate that to my maf right? just get a tapered coupler from 3"--->2.5" or whatever it would be?


:thumbup:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Alright, count with me here.... So i need (1) rubber silicone 90* 3" for the turbo, that 3" mandrel pipe(1), and a tapered coupler, 3"--->2.5 inch or whatever the maf is. So in the end ill need:
2 couplers, one 3 inch and at a 90, the other a straight tapered rubber silicone going from 3"--->to maf size. and the intake side is complete?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

yes, if you are not recirculating the DV, running the PCV to a catch can, not running the N75, and deleted that lower port on the TIP I can't remember what it is for. 

All the info you need is out there. I know I created a few threads, if you seach my username you will come across them. 

_________________

Question for Tim if you are still following this or anyone else.

For the oil feed are you using a flange like the broken one that I pictured or a threaded adapter? 
I know Tim is using a threaded adapter. 
I am thinking the vibration is what caused it to fail. 
The thread pitch is m10 x 1.25. I purchased a bolt to verify this. 
My concern is running a restrictor or not. 
My oil pressure if around 55-60 when driving, 25 at idle after it has warmed up. 
Would this be to much for the seals on the turbo? 
I have read so many different opinions on this. The flange that cracked I had drilled out to act as a restrictor, can't remember the size, it was a tiny hole. 
What is everyone doing for the feed side of the turbo, flange or fitting?


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

currently, im running an hsk ssqv off of the manifold. (n249 bypass) and i have the port on the intake capped for the dv. Ill be running an MBC with the n75 PLUGGED in but the nipples capped so that fixes that. The pcv im not sure yet. Suggestions? or just run a catch can?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> yes, if you are not recirculating the DV, running the PCV to a catch can, not running the N75, and deleted that lower port on the TIP I can't remember what it is for.
> 
> All the info you need is out there. I know I created a few threads, if you seach my username you will come across them.
> 
> ...


i'm running a threaded one. i'd say just run a restrictor on it. i strapped on my 50 trim in february, and have been using the restrictor since the beginning with no problems yet:thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> i'm running a threaded one. i'd say just run a restrictor on it. i strapped on my 50 trim in february, and have been using the restrictor since the beginning with no problems yet:thumbup:


The problem I am having is finding a fitting with a restrictor built in. 
It is m10x1.25 to -4. 

I would have to use a combination of fittings to make this work. Wouldn't this be more prone to leaks?


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Hooty, are you running a catch can? is it vented or recirc? Do you still have your prv for the tip? I've been looking around and people seem to have created homemade catch cans and this looks like the route to go. With a catch can, can i delete the prv? I'm planning on doing the custom intake as discussed before and really do not want to deal with the pcv hoses (i already have one that is ripped into 2 and held together with a clamp; y breather hose). if i can seal that up by completely removing it, that would just simplify things. What do you think? what are you running for your pcv?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

was running a can. 
now hoses to the ground


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Should i just use a can then delete the prv? i believe thats a vented can. Or should i do a recirc kit and try and drill and stick the prv to the custom intake?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

that's up to you. Do some reading and decide. 









Intake.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Thank you for the picture:thumbup: Clears things up for me. I guess ill just have to drill a hole for the prv, i heard there is problems within the crank case if you dont. Ill use that mandrel bent piping, for the intake and a 90* coupler coming off the turbo. I guess a 3" coupler for the end of the piping to the maf. Will a straight 3" fit on the stock maf or should i do a tapered one? I figured its flexible enough but i dont want leaks.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Still having issues with a leak at the exhaust flange. 

I had the surfaces machined flat, purchased some mr. gasket exhaust gasket material from jegs and made a new gasket for the 5 bolt. Used new high grade lock washers. 
I am still having an exhaust leak :facepalm:

ready to weld the flange to the turbo


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## Elballoonrat (Jun 25, 2003)

woops.

here ya go

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4288639-the-balloon-rat-thread-o-rama




bl33su said:


> tried searching for all your threads you started and didnt find any relating to the ebay parts turbo build..


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

Elballoonrat said:


> woops.
> 
> here ya go
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4288639-the-balloon-rat-thread-o-rama


Great =)

so how many miles have you put on that turbo and any problems occur so far?


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

something broke on hooty, do not remember what and TimC had the wastegate flange for the dump tube fail bc of the gasket off of ebay


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

the flange for the oil feed broke.


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

any more updates??

any1 able to record a video from the outside of the car take off, drive by etc etc?


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

I pieced mine together, just have to deposit my pay check in the bank and i will be ordering this within the week. I think im going to be recording and posting pictures for reference and will try to keep up with some updates. This is my first bt build so id love to see how it goes. It will prolly take a month or 2 to save up for tuning afterwards. I priced everything out on a spread sheet and im sitting around $2400ish for EVERYTHING i can think of. It is not all for the turbo kit directly, but things i believe i should have.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Ordered today, but have to wait until monday to give him the credit card information. Ill keep up to date posts:thumbup:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

So the turbo kit came. It was nicely packaged, nothing damaged. I do not believe i received hardware to mount the manifold and a few other things. Any suggestions on what to pick up from the hardware store? The turbo seems to be in good condition. The down pipe seems like it most likely wont hold up; the welds just do not seem very strong. Along with not receiving some hardware, the bolts and such provided seem to not fit correctly for most of the parts. I would definitely suggest picking up different oil lines and most definitely a different BOV if you choose to not use a diverter valve. The BOV that comes with this kit is ****. I plan on going with Eurodyne (when i eventually get enough money). The intake will be a custom intake; almost exactly what hooty did. I will be running a manual boost controller in parallel with the wastegate. An oil catch can will be installed to fix my ripped PCV breather hose as well. I'm planning for a turbo timer as well. I plan on taking the DP to an exhaust shop, have them weld in the o2 sensor for the a/f gauge, and also possibly just weld my whole exhaust so i dont have to f*ck with clamps and adapters. I took ALOT of photos but the iphone quality is absolutely FANTASTIC:thumbdown:. Please excuse it. Here they are:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

jealous of the blue WG and the heavy duty gasket for the DP. 

I picked up copper crush nuts for the manifold from paragonproducts. 
http://www.paragon-products.com/Hardware_Zinc_Plated_Nuts_p/hardware-nut-zinc.htm
The 20 pack for 7.95 They are one time use, ovaled on the head. They have not came loose yet. 








I also ordered a bunch of other hardware from there. 
If I were doing it again I would find a fastenal nearby and get all the hardware besides the nuts above from them. 

I actually ran the BOV for sh!ts and giggles when I still had the k04 installed. 
It held boost and responded ok, I went back to the R1 because I didn't trust it after taking it apart. 

Do you notice any shaft play in the turbo?


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

It sounds really pathetic, and i am learning, but i never did a turbo install before. This is my first boosted car and im having a couple of vw gurus help me with install. Im really not sure how to check for shaft play. Also i see im going to have to move the chra. Any tips? And like i said i didnt receive any bolts or anything for the manifold. (that i could see. i looked and tried all bolts in the box and they all seem EXTREMELY small.)


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

You will need to clock the turbo. 

Wiggle the shaft and see if there is movement. 
Minimal side to side is ok
In and out is bad.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

ah i know what you mean now. I'll check when im done work. Any recommendations for the bolts for the manifold? Like i said, i dont think i have any to mount the manifold or the turbo to the manifold.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Checked the turbo for shaft play tonight. There was absolutely ZERO shaft play. I could move it a the tad back and forth, barely noticeable at all. In and out, like i said was zero shaft play.:thumbup:


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Lol, the mani's still casted w/ ATP 3! hahahhahahhahaaaa...


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

Congrats on taking the plunge and doing your first turbo install. I'm a total amateur and was able to install these pieces in a way that have held up with no problems for over a year and over 13,000 miles so far. 

I too was very suspicious that the downpipe welds would not hold up but mine has been fine. I am running stock engine mounts except for a stiffer dogbone, of course. 

I haven't updated this thread in a while due to work, but I plan on updating more extensively after I get my car dynoed, hopefully by the end of this month.

The short version is that I've had no problems with turbo failure, leaks, cracked manifolds, or anything, and I've been running 21-22psi for a long time now. 

Also, I do have an Ebay vs. Precision intercooler update coming. To put it mildly, the Precision core is incredibly denser with fins, at least inside. I need to do more logging to confirm the results of switching over though. I"ll keep the board updated.

Good luck.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Good to know you will keep this updated. I did receive everything in the turbo kit, and there was zero shaft play with the turbo. I'm most likely going to have to wait until next month for the rest of what i need: MBC, oil catch can, custom intake w/ couplers, turbo timer, wastegate adapter (any suggestions for this? $90 seems a tad high for an adapter), a/f gauge, ATP oil lines, downpipe modifications for the a/f gauge, and the misc nuts, bolts and washers for the install. I'll post back when i do the install. I'm going to try and make it as detailed as possible. :thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I have pics in one of my posts and probably in this thread of what I did for the WG adapter. 

Call up speedy and tell him you need a wastegate adapter. They are aware there is a problem. 
He sent one out to me for free. You then need to get it cut and welded. 



here is a link for a thread I made. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...his-fit-Wastegate-issues.&highlight=wastegate


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

I will give them a call tomorrow. Lets see if they will continue their good customer service. With me ordering and asking for tracking numbers, they have been really helpful so far. For me, i haven't called with part issues yet so we will see. Thank you for the post/help:beer:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

@ the guys that have ordered this, did you just use your old hardware (bolts etc) to install the mani and the turbo etc; or were you supplied with nuts and bolts? I received studs and a few other accessories and nothing really seems like it fits right. I wanted to prefit everything together and i wasnt able to do this. If the kit didnt come with anything, what do you suggest besides the copper crush washers? Also, i called sam today for the wastegate adapter problem and he told me to give him a call tomorrow and we will work it out. :thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I didn't use any of the supplied hardware.
the bolts to hold the turbo to the mani are m10x1.5
the exhaust housing and flanges for oil feed\drain are m8x1.25
i used the stock exhaust studs and the linked crush nuts to secure the mani. 
go to your local fastenal or hardware store, i ordered them paragon products when i got the crush nuts but you can source them locally


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

i get most of the hardware i need from ace hardware


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Thats what i was planning. Thank you for the posts and a few :beer:'s to you for the specs thank you


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## sgentile787 (Feb 4, 2010)

TimC said:


> I'm a total amateur and was able to install these pieces in a way that have held up with no problems for over a year and over 13,000 miles so far.
> 
> I too was very suspicious that the downpipe welds would not hold up but mine has been fine. I am running stock engine mounts except for a stiffer dogbone, of course.
> 
> ...


 Just curious about you having had no major issues besides the gaskets in the beginning of the build... is that with really wailing on it from time to time? or do you take it easy most of the time?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

sgentile787 said:


> Just curious about you having had no major issues besides the gaskets in the beginning of the build... is that with really wailing on it from time to time? or do you take it easy most of the time?


 did you read through this thread, I know it is alot but alot of good info is within


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

hootyburra said:


> did you read through this thread, I know it is alot but alot of good info is within


 how is your's going? 

any more updates? psi your running and how many miles so far..


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## sgentile787 (Feb 4, 2010)

hootyburra said:


> did you read through this thread, I know it is alot but alot of good info is within


 yea I read through some, i plan on continuing the 24 pages lol. I am just curious about his last update saying that everything is still okay after a year, after I'm assuming upgrading software and injetors and now running something like 21-24 psi? I am shocked.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

bl33su said:


> how is your's going?
> 
> any more updates? psi your running and how many miles so far..


 Running 20 psi. 

Probably around 1500 miles. 
I can check later to be sure. 

Only issue right now is an exhaust leak at the v-band flange I fabricated. 
I had the 3" v-band welded right to the adapter some of the welds are to close to the holes making it hard to tighten. I have parts ordered to weld up another using a 2.5-3" transition from the flange to vband. 
I also ordered another flex section to add to the exhaust. I feel like to the one on the DP is stressed to much. 

Other then that great. 
Need to switch out the summer tires. I had the asr kicking in on a 3rd gear pull.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Just got off the phone from sam. I told him about the wastegate issue and at first he played it off like he didnt know what i was talking about. I referenced hooty in the conversation saying it was posted in a thread and he said give him a day. Called him today and explained again and he shipped an adapter out immediately. Maybe soon they will just incorporate this into the kit.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ LOL he tried to play it off:snowcool:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Well he kept saying he didn't understand, he doens't know what i'm talking about. I brought up hootys example and said i can provide info on what he needs and hes like alright well give me a call tomorrow. I did, and now he said its sent out for delivery today. Just funny how ALL OF A SUDDEN he now understands Oh well lets see how it looks when it arrives. I dont believe i was charged anything.


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

hootyburra said:


> Running 20 psi.
> 
> Probably around 1500 miles.
> I can check later to be sure.
> ...


 THATS great =) 
iv forgoten what software you w ent with? or are you still running stage 2? 

im going to need to email these guys n have the wastegate adaptoer sorted before they ship to me as im in australia its going to be big hassels going back and forth!


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

running a eurodyne 630 file


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

So the wastegate adapter came today, it was fedexed, and i dont believe i was charged for anything; even shipping. I have to ask, cause i can't really tell if it will help with the wastegate fitment. I have some pics so give me some input. Here is what it looks like: 









































eace:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I have already posted multiple times of how the adapter needs to be modified. 
Also you should post them as thumbnails, makes things much easier.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Really looks like mine was different than yours. And the images are posted as


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

yes it does look different to hootys... 

have you tried to just do a mock up install of all the parts?


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

no i didnt purchase the hardware yet, i guess thats the next step. Ill post pics of what it looks like when i get time to go purchase what i need for the manifold and wastegate.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

The Original 
 

Modified, cut and welded straight and shorter. 
 

Better pic of what you want it to look like. 









Post with the same topic I already covered. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...his-fit-Wastegate-issues.&highlight=wastegate


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Guess ill be calling Sam again tomorrow and telling him it needs to be cut and welded.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Zneith said:


> Guess ill be calling Sam again tomorrow and telling him it needs to be cut and welded.


 He has pictures from me of all of this. 

He did actually paypal me $20 towards costs for welding


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

I asked him about cutting and welding the adapter and he said, "go ahead and cut it. Whatever is easier for you". I said i talked to someone that previously had this problem and he told me that he got it cut as well. He said he would get hell from his boss if he would pay the cost to get it cut and rewelded. Well, I need to get the down pipe modified anyway (a/f o2 sensor bung), so i might as well do it all at once.


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

It's amazing you guys are having such success with these kit's. I guess like others have said the R&D is already done by copying a tried and true design and using lower grade materials. 

I am seriously thinking of picking up one of these kits just for the parts that come with it. Just the downpipe aline would save me a ton of money. What other places charge for a 5 bolt dp is the price for this whole kit. I'd end up getting the manifold new oil lines and an extra turbo and intercooler core for free, essentially. 

How are the wg's holding up for you guys same with the mani? The kit I found has just a dp flange with a bend attached that I could weld to my current pipe. 



Good Luck and Godspeed to you all, you're entering a world many have veered away from and are doing it well. Keep it up! :thumbup::thumbup:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Mine is not installed yet, we are planning on getting her in around january/february. As of now, i'm still compiling pieces into my pile, but everything looks relatively decent. Ill keep you updated when its installed just as timc did.


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## 97VRT (Mar 6, 2007)

lol or not


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

97VRT said:


> I am the officail owner of page 25:wave:


What were you saying? :bs:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Update for those who want use use a vband on the exhaust. 
The original adapter I was using didn't cut it. I could not get the bolts to stay tight because the flange was to big. 
I had to make a new one with a 2.5" to 3" adapter. 

I also used some high temp gasket material from jegs to make a new 5 bolt gasket. 
It was labeled as exhaust manifold gasket. I don't think it stood up to the heat to well.


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## 97VRT (Mar 6, 2007)

lol i thought i was but hey you can shove that bs flag in your arse :wave:


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## Redapex (Mar 9, 2004)

Just checking in... The 337 was rear ended and totalled so I never got to make my 1/4 pass but just wanted to see how you guys were doing. She was pulling strong though


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Couple questions that I would like to double check on. 

1.) I ordered an oil catch can for when I do the BT setup (i have the ripped PCV breather hose figured this was a cheaper route). I have a rough idea of how to install this, but does anyone have a pic of where the hoses go exactly? Also, what am i going to do with the "hockey puck". I'm going with just a 3" mandrel bent 90* pipe for the custom intake. Should i reinstall the hockey puck or can i run without it?

2.) I have a manual boost controller and will be bypassing the n75 valve. Can i just leave the n75 plugged in electronically and leave it unplugged from the TIP? Or does the N75 need to be plugged into the tip as well.

3.) What hose do you recommend purchasing for the catch can. Also let me know that it is not vented, but does have a drain bolt on the bottom to empty it out.

Any other tips/suggestions are appreciated.


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## Redapex (Mar 9, 2004)

> 1.) I ordered an oil catch can for when I do the BT setup (i have the ripped PCV breather hose figured this was a cheaper route). I have a rough idea of how to install this, but does anyone have a pic of where the hoses go exactly? Also, what am i going to do with the "hockey puck". I'm going with just a 3" mandrel bent 90* pipe for the custom intake. Should i reinstall the hockey puck or can i run without it?


I ran mine without the PCV valve, and hose from valve cover and crank case into a T fitting into the catch can. One hose out into the TIP.



> 2.) I have a manual boost controller and will be bypassing the n75 valve. Can i just leave the n75 plugged in electronically and leave it unplugged from the TIP? Or does the N75 need to be plugged into the tip as well.


Different cars seem to take this different ways. I ran my 02 on a MBC and the N75 100% removed with no issues at all. I tried it on my friends GLI and his car wouldnt make more than 5lbs of boost at all... plugged in or not.

_



3.)What hose do you recommend purchasing for the catch can. Also let me know that it is not vented, but does have a drain bolt on the bottom to empty it out.

Click to expand...

_ I just went to autozone and picked up 5 feet of heater hose for around $6


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Leave the n75 plugged in electronically and plug the open ports

You can put a filter on top of the can so you don't need to run it back into the intake. 
Or you can run 2 hoses down to the ground....


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Well the catch can that i have is closed; as in i cant put a filter on top of it. So i know one hose goes to the crankcase and the other one goes below the intake manifold by the break booster line. From what i see from your responses, i dont need to run the prv at all then. Any pics that can be had for the line going under the intake?

As for the N75, ill definitely leave it plugged in but bypass it and see how she runs. Thanks for the quick responses:

*EDIT:* just an edit, i also just ordered everything else i needed to complete this (minus tuning, injectors, and fuel pump).

The A/F Gauge was ordered, oil return line kit, silicone couplers for the intake side, vagcom, 2 5 bolt flanges for the exhaust side, and lastly the 2" mandrel bent piping for the intake side. Everything should be here by the 1st-2nd week of january. We will go from there and start the build. If someone can get back to me about the oil catch can, that would be great; im going for other misc hardware tonight including the heater hose as suggested.


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

It's been a while since I've updated the thread on my experience. I finally had my car dynoed and I'm generally happy.










I was hoping for peak whp to be closer to 330 or so, but I guess this is what you get on California piss 91 octane and an engine with 177,000 miles. I know I'm playing with fire with the torque a little rich for stock rods. 

Also, based on compressor inducer and exducer measurements listed on various Ebay "57 trim" turbos, I think these Chinachargers are actually "48 trim". Check it out for yourself. This would account for the somewhat low overall whp I'm putting out. Just my guess.

Otherwise, I've put about 16,000 miles on the set up so far with no problems. I run boost daily in the 22-23 psi range. 

Good luck to others out there.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ Thats Good Useful Info Tim! Seem's Like U And Hooty R The Only Ones Who Contribute To The Thread. #'s are decent definately. i bet that thing is a 48 trim too, i agree :thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Thanks for the dyno, and keeping the thread updated. 

What was the boost set at for the dyno? 

Edit, what kind of gas mileage are you seeing.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Wondering about what @psi you were running during the dyno as well. 

Ill be getting a dyno time once everything is completed, but like TimC, money is an issue I have everything ordered minus the tuning and software, just have to wait for it to get here and install it. Ill give my run down once i get everything installed. 

Thanks again TimC for the update! Seems more and more promising to install this. How is 323lbs of torque safe for the rods??:screwy: You dont daily that do you?


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Just an update as far as where I'm at: So we pulled the dub in the gf's parents garage this weekend. We only had about 3 hours to work on it on Saturday. We got the whole intake side minus the tip out, n75 out, oil catch can disconnected, the top fmic intercooler piping off, and a few other odds and ends that needed to be done.

Sunday morning, we started again to tear some sh*t out. For me, today was the "fun" day because everything we were doing ended up being an SOB to do. Sunday, Joey Skoda, Anthony Capasso, Krystal Spencer, and myself were able to get the old downpipe off, drain the oil and coolant lines, disconnect the oil line from the oil filter housing, get all the hardware to install the new stuff, remove the old turbo*(Explain about this in a second), install the new wastegate to the manifold, mount the manifold (just needs to be tightened). 

When we were removing the turbo, it took me about 2 hours to do so..... about 15 minutes to get the SOB OUT of the engine bay and about 1hr45min to get that stupid allen bolt out that holds it to a bracket.. It was right in a spot that i couldnt reach it underneath the car at the angle it was, and i actually was sitting in my bay to get it out from above. 

I figured something must go wrong because we had the manifold out really fast. I heard that was more of a pita than anything else.

So where I stand as of now: Like i said the wastegate is mounted to the manifold and the manifold is against the block, just needs to be tightened. The turbo is clocked and ready for install next. I'm waiting on Joey Skoda to get me the oil drain line because the one that came with the kit needs welding to the oil pan; and by no means do i plan on dropping that. So after the oil drain line gets into my hands we can continue with installing all the lines to the turbo, we can put the turbo and downpipe in.

Just a side note for anyone looking to do this with not much mechanical knowledge: I was supposed to have two guys that are pretty good with vw/audis help me. And of course Saturday the day we were supposed to start they bailed. I figured everything out this far, so i said screw it and started it myself. Everything is pretty self explanatory, and I do have very minimal pictures to show what I have done so far. I got so wrapped up into taking everything out and focusing on not screwing up I completely spaced on taking pictures. If anyone else has any tips for anything that I will be doing in the near future please, enlighten me

Onto the pictures:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Look at the pictures of the bent wrenches I had made and follow them. 
It will be much easier for you. 

DO NOT use the supplied oil drain. 

I can think of more later.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

We got the manifold off with ease... didnt take long at all to my surprise. The turbo was more of a bitch than anything. I'm not using the supplied oil drain line, just the gasket that Sam never sent to me. Just emailed him a pic and he said he will send it out when he gets the email.

After i get the gasket, my DSM buddy has an oil drain line for me that we are going to use and we can continue putting everything together from there. Let me know if you think of anything else:thumbup:


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## Camride (Oct 16, 2005)

Zneith said:


> When we were removing the turbo, it took me about 2 hours to do so..... about 15 minutes to get the SOB OUT of the engine bay and about 1hr45min to get that stupid allen bolt out that holds it to a bracket.. It was right in a spot that i couldnt reach it underneath the car at the angle it was, and i actually was sitting in my bay to get it out from above.


I hear you on that. Same problem when I put my Frankenturbo in this past weekend. That little allen bolt was a HUGE pain in the ass.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Camride said:


> I hear you on that. Same problem when I put my Frankenturbo in this past weekend. That little allen bolt was a HUGE pain in the ass.



My girlfriend has pictures of me sitting in my bay trying to get the mFer out.... finally i loosened it and just shook the living hell outta it and it came out. What a PITA


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## Camride (Oct 16, 2005)

Zneith said:


> My girlfriend has pictures of me sitting in my bay trying to get the mFer out.... finally i loosened it and just shook the living hell outta it and it came out. What a PITA


Thankfully I had a friend helping me out so we just keep going back and forth, one of us would attack it for a while then give up and the other would go at it. I did NOT put that bolt back in when I mounted the FT.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Camride said:


> Thankfully I had a friend helping me out so we just keep going back and forth, one of us would attack it for a while then give up and the other would go at it. I did NOT put that bolt back in when I mounted the FT.


With the new turbo there isnt even a spot for that bolt to go THANK GOD. My one buddy, anthony, he started on it, got so pissed off he had to take a break, i worked on it for probably almost 2 hours, and at the end i just shook the **** out of it. Like i said though i was extremely surprised on how well the manifold went; that shouldve taken forever but it didnt. Anthony did the top studs and i did the bottom, came out in about 30 minutes:thumbup:

Ill update my build this weekend; i should have the oil drain line from my buddy today, but im waiting on the gasket from Sam.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ Lucky You! Getting My Stock Mani & Turbo Off Was a B*tch.:thumbup:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Just a question for you guys. Can I use my stock oil drain line, but modify it with the flange needed for the turbo? My buddy got me that DSM oil drain line and it looks like the flange that is on there will fit the turbo and then its the stock flange that will mate to the block. Does anyone see a problem with this? Ill post up pictures shortly, the boss is on my laptop at work.

The oil drain line he gave me has the flange at the end but is a rubber hose connecting it to the rest. I plan on just hacking the one flange off, attaching the rubber hose to it and calling it a day. Is this ok without causing leaks/problems?


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## nbkkb7x (Jan 12, 2009)

I thought it was a good measure to increase the volume the drain hose could flow. I wouldn't utilize the stock drain volume. If you need one, I have an extra AN -10 one sitting around. :beer:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

nbkkb7x said:


> I thought it was a good measure to increase the volume the drain hose could flow. I wouldn't utilize the stock drain volume. If you need one, I have an extra AN -10 one sitting around. :beer:


Hmm, ill have to wait until i can get back on my laptop. Ill snap some pics of the stock line, and the new line so you can see what i mean. Any other ideas? I need this last piece to complete the build this weekend.


EDIT: Here is what im dealing with, and i do need it sorted out today

here is the flange that will be going to my turbo on the *new line*.


This is the line i want to modify. If i chop this here, and hook on the rubber line on the NEW LINE, would this work? They look like they are relatively the same size. (*if you click on the picture, you will see where i circled and entered text to cut this and attach the rubber line from the NEW LINE.*


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

up for an answer


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

went through the same thing already, even posted a thread about it. 

Just buy a -10an line and be done with it. 

You can use the included fittings to attach it to the turbo and will need a new one for the pan.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

hootyburra said:


> went through the same thing already, even posted a thread about it.
> 
> Just buy a -10an line and be done with it.
> 
> You can use the included fittings to attach it to the turbo and will need a new one for the pan.


I did a search on oil drain line and i completely overlooked that thread. My apologies!!!

I read through a few of our posts and actually, what i was gunna do is exactly what other people have done. Ill utilize the stock oil pan flange and just use the new flange on that rubber line for the turbo; should work like a charm. Sorry for the repetitive question, simple overlook:banghead:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Here is another update: Turbo is installed. The downpipe got f*cked up though, where i had the bung welded for the a/f gauge; the guy that did it welded it in the wrong spot Going back to him to get moved up about an inch. The manifold is tightened, wastegate is tightened, the turbo is tightened. All that is left is getting a fitting for the oil supply, hooking up the oil lines, installing the intake and manual boost controller. Onto the pictures:







Shes almost done:thumbup:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Another Update: Intake side is in and the MBC is setup. The oil drain line, and supply needs to go in, along with the downpipe and shes ready to run. Should be finished this week *knock on wood*. Here are some pics of the intake side, dont mind the messy engine bay, i tore everything apart. When tuning is here, it will be cleaned up, but thats not for a month or 2.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Replace that wastegate and mbc tubing


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

hootyburra said:


> Replace that wastegate and mbc tubing


 With what and why?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I would use some fuel line or something reinforced, when you are doing a 6th gear pull and the hose ruptures from the heat you will know why.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Alright well it was the finishing touches last night to get this thing started. The girlfriend wired up the a/f gauge, I ran some wire to the battery to hook it up, hooked up the rest of the exhaust, and filled fluids. We found a coolant leak caused by the previous owner, we kept filling coolant till operating temp and it stopped leaking. We let it idle for a while and we also found the oil drain line leaking a bit. Going to put some gasket sealer on the ends; it is by no means a bad leak. I'm hoping the sealer fixes it, thats what it looks like TimC did.

Besides these problems, everything is installed. We had to rotate the test pipe to get the downpipe to mate up; not a big problem. I did notice (just driving her around the block) that she has a MUCH deeper tone. I didnt really get to spool up the turbo (didnt pass -5psi). I was too concerned about the oil leak and coolant leak. I did get to hear the wastegate a tad and the turbo spool a tad; Was very impressed and it sounded fuking SWEET! Tonight I'm hoping to go back over to the garage, seal up that drain line, let her warm up and take her for a "harder" spin. I'll post up some more pictures soon of the build completed.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

:thumbup::beer:

you are definately right about the exhaust note change. i noticed that right away after going BT as well


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

awesome news!!!!

Can you get videos of it driving outside aswel.. like drive bys =)


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Big_Tom said:


> :thumbup::beer:
> 
> you are definately right about the exhaust note change. i noticed that right away after going BT as well





bl33su said:


> awesome news!!!!
> 
> Can you get videos of it driving outside aswel.. like drive bys =)


Like I said, didn't get to truly hear the car, I was too concerned about the leaks, making sure everything was ok etc. I will get updates and such. 

I probably could get videos eventually, but I don't believe it will be very impressive. At a merely ~7psi (wastegate pressure), I really don't think I'll have the full "feel" of being BT. It sounds like it will be a little faster than my ko3 spiking 24psi. I'm hoping that the performance difference is noticeable, but we will see; I have not gotten to go WOT yet. Thanks for the replies and reading!

*EDIT:* Forgot to add this, when we started the car, *ZERO CEL's!* :laugh: Sorry just something I was even more happy about


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

if at 7psi is almost faster then the baby k03 chipped then thats worth the money!


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## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

i've been reading this topic for 6 months now and i finally decided to upgrade my K04 to an emusa t3/t4 but with internal WG, i orderd two turbos and two manifolds from sam (one for me and one for a friend) and now i'm waiting for them to arrive. i'm a bit dissapointed about Sam, he tryed to fish some money off me because i wanted him to reduce tha package value so i could avoid customs fees, but finally decided to buy them individually so package value won't be more than 150$. i hope everything will go smooth, i'll keep you posted. thanks to all of you guys for experimentig these cheap parts!


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Motor069 said:


> i've been reading this topic for 6 months now and i finally decided to upgrade my K04 to an emusa t3/t4 but with internal WG, i orderd two turbos and two manifolds from sam (one for me and one for a friend) and now i'm waiting for them to arrive. i'm a bit dissapointed about Sam, he tryed to fish some money off me because i wanted him to reduce tha package value so i could avoid customs fees, but finally decided to buy them individually so package value won't be more than 150$. i hope everything will go smooth, i'll keep you posted. thanks to all of you guys for experimentig these cheap parts!


Mine are still running strong!


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Motor069 said:


> i've been reading this topic for 6 months now and i finally decided to upgrade my K04 to an emusa t3/t4 but with internal WG, i orderd two turbos and two manifolds from sam (one for me and one for a friend) and now i'm waiting for them to arrive. i'm a bit dissapointed about Sam, he tryed to fish some money off me because i wanted him to reduce tha package value so i could avoid customs fees, but finally decided to buy them individually so package value won't be more than 150$. i hope everything will go smooth, i'll keep you posted. thanks to all of you guys for experimentig these cheap parts!


:thumbup:


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## Oh_My_VR6 (Sep 6, 2004)

Motor069 said:


> i'm a bit dissapointed about Sam, he tryed to fish some money off me because i wanted him to reduce tha package value so i could avoid customs fees, but finally decided to buy them individually so package value won't be more than 150$.


Sounds like you were the one who went fishing and came up empty handed. :thumbdown::facepalm:


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## sponcar (Feb 5, 2010)

any videos yet of how this turbo run on our engines?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

sponcar said:


> any videos yet of how this turbo run on our engines?


:what::facepalm:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> :what::facepalm:


+1


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

is this the rhetorical "our"


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

sponcar said:


> any videos yet of how this turbo run on our engines?


Many pages earlier in this thread I posted a video of a decent 3rd gear pull. My dyno sheet is also posted in this thread. 

My experience has been that these Ebay t3/t4 turbos are good for about 300whp due to their having a smaller compressor wheel (something like a 48 trim) and a stage 1 turbine wheel which leads to decent backpressure at high rpm's. 

I have purchased a used "real" T3/T4 and will be posting comparison pics shortly.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

TimC said:


> I have purchased a used "real" T3/T4 and will be posting comparison pics shortly.


Waiting for this. :thumbup:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

TimC said:


> Many pages earlier in this thread I posted a video of a decent 3rd gear pull. My dyno sheet is also posted in this thread.
> 
> My experience has been that these Ebay t3/t4 turbos are good for about 300whp due to their having a smaller compressor wheel (something like a 48 trim) and a stage 1 turbine wheel which leads to decent backpressure at high rpm's.
> 
> I have purchased a used "real" T3/T4 and will be posting comparison pics shortly.


Ah sick update. Keep us up to date Tim!

Are you still having minor problems with your car hooty? Did you figure out if the injectors were your issue with the idle?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Busy with school this week. I'm going to try and diagnose some things friday.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

TimC said:


> Many pages earlier in this thread I posted a video of a decent 3rd gear pull. My dyno sheet is also posted in this thread.
> 
> My experience has been that these Ebay t3/t4 turbos are good for about 300whp due to their having a smaller compressor wheel (something like a 48 trim) and a stage 1 turbine wheel which leads to decent backpressure at high rpm's.
> 
> I have purchased a used "real" T3/T4 and will be posting comparison pics shortly.


nice! i wanna see what this :thumbup::beer:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

hootyburra said:


> Busy with school this week. I'm going to try and diagnose some things friday.


The idle still iffy? Driveable though I'm guessing?


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

I'll be ordering one of these kit's sometime this week and doing the same, using a T3 S60 I already have in place of the supplied turbo. I think it's a great deal since so many of you guys are having good responses. Plus the cost is so nominal that selling a couple unused parts from the kit (FMIC, Turbo, Catch can) I can most likely end up paying close to nothing for the kit. 

I was also thinking of experimenting with the supplied turbo, possibly purchasing a Garret or Other Center Cartridge, possibly BB and having a pretty good tweaked turbo for cheap.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

DMVDUB said:


> I'll be ordering one of these kit's sometime this week and doing the same, using a T3 S60 I already have in place of the supplied turbo. I think it's a great deal since so many of you guys are having good responses. Plus the cost is so nominal that selling a couple unused parts from the kit (FMIC, Turbo, Catch can) I can most likely end up paying close to nothing for the kit.
> 
> I was also thinking of experimenting with the supplied turbo, possibly purchasing a Garret or Other Center Cartridge, possibly BB and having a pretty good tweaked turbo for cheap.


do it :thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Zneith said:


> The idle still iffy? Driveable though I'm guessing?


Very drivable, I will keep the other thread updated; no need to clutter this up.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

hootyburra said:


> Very drivable, I will keep the other thread updated; no need to clutter this up.


:thumbup:


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## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

what clutch do you use? stock?i have kit Valeo with rigid flywheel, remains to be seen how will resist


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Motor069 said:


> what clutch do you use? stock?


I'm currently using ECS Stage 2 Clutch kit, 12lb flywheel. I believe its rated for 350ish hp. Should be good enough for me:thumbup:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Spoke with Arnold @ PagParts this morning, and I decided to order up some software and tuning.

I ordered up the Maestro 7 Suite, 630cc Injectors, an Inline Fuel Pump, and an oil filter fitting for my leaky atp fitting. I'm hoping to get these installed shortly, and flash the car with a Eurodyne base map file. Arnold said estimate these parts will reach me tomorrow or the day after, as I'm right below him; in PA. Ill keep this up to date, but I think for now after tuning and such, the boost will still only be around 15-18..... I'm worried about rods


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Good choice on software you won't be disappointed. 

If you can got some dyno time to dial in your boost at a safe level, that's what you should do. 

The T3/T4 put's out more HP than TQ so you should be fairly safe.


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## first9t! (Jul 13, 2009)

Zneith said:


> Spoke with Arnold @ PagParts this morning, and I decided to order up some software and tuning.
> 
> I ordered up the Maestro 7 Suite, 630cc Injectors, an Inline Fuel Pump, and an oil filter fitting for my leaky atp fitting. I'm hoping to get these installed shortly, and flash the car with a Eurodyne base map file. Arnold said estimate these parts will reach me tomorrow or the day after, as I'm right below him; in PA. Ill keep this up to date, but I think for now after tuning and such, the boost will still only be around 15-18..... I'm worried about rods


How much was all that? One of the last things I need.

Picked up a "jdm" t3/t4 off cl the other night. Whole thing was rebuilt by a diesel shop the kids dad works at, no shaft play at all. Pretty good for $150


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

DMVDUB said:


> Good choice on software you won't be disappointed.
> 
> If you can got some dyno time to dial in your boost at a safe level, that's what you should do.
> 
> The T3/T4 put's out more HP than TQ so you should be fairly safe.


Well putting into consideration TimC's dyno, I'm definitely convinced that this is a .48ar not a .63ar. Dyno will definitely be necessary, but I'm not going to push the 1-3 extra psi for my motor. I have no experience or plans on doing rods, and I just want to enjoy the car for awhile


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I'm at 20 now and have no problems


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

hootyburra said:


> I'm at 20 now and have no problems


I pm'd Arnold @ pagparts in regards to the injectors spacers. Hoping that I get these with the injectors, fuel pump, and software that was ordered. Is there anything else I'm missing to complete the install? I know I'll need wires for wiring up the pump, and probably a fuse and such. Would it be worth it to purchase USRT's wiring harness?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Zneith said:


> I pm'd Arnold @ pagparts in regards to the injectors spacers. Hoping that I get these with the injectors, fuel pump, and software that was ordered. Is there anything else I'm missing to complete the install? I know I'll need wires for wiring up the pump, and probably a fuse and such. Would it be worth it to purchase USRT's wiring harness?


i skipped the harness. i grounded the pump on the valve cover and snagged power supply from one of my injector wires with a cheater clip. it works perfect this way for me:thumbup: vortex wants you to buy the harness tho lol:wave:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Big_Tom said:


> i skipped the harness. i grounded the pump on the valve cover and snagged power supply from one of my injector wires with a cheater clip. it works perfect this way for me:thumbup: vortex wants you to buy the harness tho lol:wave:


Well vortex didnt' want me to purchase the harness in the first place. I'm asking others opinion. Any pics on that? I was told from a few diy's that I should tap a yellow (? maybe?) wire from in the cabin. I believe its to the OEM fuel pump.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

first9t! said:


> How much was all that? One of the last things I need.
> 
> Picked up a "jdm" t3/t4 off cl the other night. Whole thing was rebuilt by a diesel shop the kids dad works at, no shaft play at all. Pretty good for $150


I believe it was 1225ish, plus 25 for shipping so about 1250. Maestro was 895, not sure on the injectors and such. I was gunna say forget Maestro but its probably better if I have this:thumbup:

Expand my knowledge with tuning, and maybe blow my DD up :laugh:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Zneith said:


> Well vortex didnt' want me to purchase the harness in the first place. I'm asking others opinion. Any pics on that? I was told from a few diy's that I should tap a yellow (? maybe?) wire from in the cabin. I believe its to the OEM fuel pump.


yeh ill go snap a few pics for you in a to show. i am sure there are many ways to get power to the pump, but my way was the easiest and took the least amount of extra supplies


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Big_Tom said:


> yeh ill go snap a few pics for you in a to show. i am sure there are many ways to get power to the pump, but my way was the easiest and took the least amount of extra supplies


Whenever you get to it, no rush. And thanks bro!:thumbup::beer:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ YW:thumbup::beer:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Big_Tom said:


> ^^^ YW:thumbup::beer:


Thanks for the fast response. I'm a little leery tapping into my injector harness might have to take a look when i go to install. Thanks again bro


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Zneith said:


> Thanks for the fast response. I'm a little leery tapping into my injector harness might have to take a look when i go to install. Thanks again bro


there's only 2 wires that go to each injector. u dont even have to cut it if u use the cheat clips. run each wire thru and snap it closed and be DONE. all i did to expose that wire was unwrap that oem tape around it. everything else is untouched


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Big_Tom said:


> there's only 2 wires that go to each injector. u dont even have to cut it if u use the cheat clips. run each wire thru and snap it closed and be DONE. all i did to expose that wire was unwrap that oem tape around it.


I might PM you when i go to do the install if you dont mind. Im sure ill be doing it the same way you did.:thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I can get some picks of my relay setup. 

Signal wire goes into the cabin
fused power to battery 
power to pump pump to ground.

It is easy.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

hootyburra said:


> I can get some picks of my relay setup.
> 
> Signal wire goes into the cabin
> fused power to battery
> ...



:thumbup: Sounds good, thanks bro


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Just a small update, at around 500 miles on this setup, no issues, no shaft play, boost is fine, no failures. I'm still only on 10psi. I have ordered Maestro 7, waiting on a user name and password to get that going, I have the 630cc injectors, and the inline walbro fuel pump. Only waiting on the USRT Wiring harness to get here and we are set to bump this boost up. I think I'm going to keep it at ~18-19 psi, im deathly afraid of bending/breaking a rod on my DD. Ill post up updates once I get the boost dialed in.:thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

make sure you use fuel line clamps when you put the pump in. 
I found it easier to just use a new line instead of the old stock one.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

hootyburra said:


> make sure you use fuel line clamps when you put the pump in.
> I found it easier to just use a new line instead of the old stock one.


How long did you guys have to wait to receive your username and password for logging into the eurodyne website for the SW? I sent an email yesterday, called eurodyne today and they told me to email the support email address. Was kinda looking to get the flash squared away before this weekend.

I emailed [email protected], which was recommended by the guy who picked the phone up at eurodyne.

@hooty, Ill keep that inmind, im sure ill need new clamps.


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

Zneith said:


> How long did you guys have to wait to receive your username and password for logging into the eurodyne website for the SW? I sent an email yesterday, called eurodyne today and they told me to email the support email address. Was kinda looking to get the flash squared away before this weekend.
> 
> I emailed [email protected], which was recommended by the guy who picked the phone up at eurodyne.
> 
> @hooty, Ill keep that inmind, im sure ill need new clamps.


Took a day, they even sent me mine on a sunday.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

TooLFan46n2 said:


> Took a day, they even sent me mine on a sunday.


After 3 days, Chris finally emailed me. He said that he thought he sent over the username and password, I emailed him back saying please send that ASAP and gave him my number. No reply as of yet. I hope I dont need to wait another 3 days for a reply.

When I get the username and password, after I read the ecu and send that back to him, how long till I receive the new tune? Like I said, I want to wrap this up by sunday, but from the way it looks, I wont be doing the work until next weekend:banghead:


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## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

finally ... the pieces have arrived today, I broke turbo pieces, checked, no play, cracks, and I mounted internalwastgate (I do not like the idea of external wastgate, although I think it's best), and I started retouch manifold, and that's all for today

http://www.netsight.ro/recn/2011-02/26/92.jpg
http://www.netsight.ro/recn/2011-02/26/93.jpg
http://www.netsight.ro/recn/2011-02/26/94.jpg
http://www.netsight.ro/recn/2011-02/26/95.jpg
http://www.netsight.ro/recn/2011-02/26/96.jpg
I apologize otherwise I could just put pictures


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

nice, i thought about going internal wastegate too, but i ended up buying the full cts kit. let us know how that internal wastegate works out i am curious:thumbup:


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

:thumbup: guys are doin werk..


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

Well, after about 20,000 miles on this setup, my Ebay turbo experiment is basically over, but not due to a failure. As my dyno sheet that I posted earlier in this thread states, I'm topped out on this setup at about 306whp, which I knew was low for a T3/T4 50 trim. No matter how much boost I ran, even up to 25psi, my flow up top just sucked. 

As a result, I found a beat up Turbonetics T3/T4 50 trim online for about 150 bucks and rebuilt it. These run Garrett internals so it's a "real" turbo. Here are the pics which confirm that the Ebay turbo I ran was not flowing as much air as it should have been. 

(Don't get me wrong, 360 crank horsepower out of a 100 dollar turbo is not bad, I just wanted more.)

First, some pics of the two compressor housings:

Turbonetics. 









Ebay.










Simply put, it's no surprise, the Ebay runs a .50 A/R compressor housing, the Turbonetics runs a .60 A/R housing. Basically, less flow.


Now for the turbine housings:
Turbonetics.









Ebay.









Both are cast with a .63 A/R on them, but does the scroll on the Ebay housing look slightly smaller? Perhaps. I'll let you decide.

Now let's get to the internals.
Here's the Stage 3 Turbonetics wheel with 10 blades.










Mr. Ebay has 12 blades.









Turbonetics turbine again.









Ebay turbine.









This is beginning to show the picture about why my peak horsepower as so low.
Notice the much more severe bend and arc in the Ebay turbine blades. This was good for spool, which was quick, but killed flow.

Now forget eyeballing this crap, let's break out the micrometer!

The Turbonetics compressor wheel, inducer and exducer.


















Trim calculations show this to be a 50 trim, just as expected. 

Now the Ebay part, also promised to be a "50 trim".

















Hey, this thing is actually a 44 trim, not a 50 trim! No wonder my horses are down.

Now for the turbine measurements.
Turbonetics.


















Calculations show this to be a 76 trim, which is the same thing as a Stage 3 turbine.

Now for the Ebay.

















Surprise, it's not that much smaller, only slightly, about a 74 trim, but that blade design sucks for flow. But good for spool.

That's about it. 

To summarize, I ran this thing daily about 22psi, sometimes up to 25psi, with no failures for 20,000 miles. Shaft play was identical to when new. It pushed 306whp with great spool. 

I'd still be running it but I have a nasty addiction to more power. My turbonetics pulls harder up top and is much slower to spool. I imagine that this Ebay .63 a/r is really closer in performance to a .48 a/r. 

Good luck to others, I hope this thread dispelled some rumors out there that these turbos are glued together and grenade at 5psi.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^:beer::thumbup:


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## VWBugman00 (Mar 17, 2009)

Hey Tim, thanks for having the sack to try something like this, and reporting back on it. Have a few :beer::beer::beer: and enjoy your Turbonetics.


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## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

I checked yesterday declared the SAM measures and found that not correct, I calculated and I went out and trim 44 not 50

a friend ordered a turbo, this week must go ... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...&item=170606527856&viewitem=&_trkparms=clkid%, which is cooling and water
when I do get a measurement, I'll tell you the dimensions coincide with those stated

I had to choose between this turbo and EMUSA, I choose EMUSA because you have "tested"


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## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

Wow what an unbelievable write-up! Thanks so much for your contribution!!!


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Time to upgrade. 

Also I might try and contact Sam again and see what he has to say. 

Thanks for all the info Tim :beer::beer:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

I was able to install the walbro inline fuel pump and injectors this weekend, as well as flashing it. I had a few problems with the flash, and I am having a few problems opening up Maestro 7 editor, but atleast the car is running good with the 630cc mafless file. The car has such a different throttle response, spool rate, and how hard the boost comes on. Second gear feels like a completely different car when going from apr stg 2 to Eurodyne. Tomorrow, the boost will be cranked up to 15psi for now, and ill take it for a drive. If all is well, I'll be taking it up to 18-19 psi. Does anyone see a problem with this? Stock motor, and I'm aware of the torque vs rods issue. Based off of how much boost TimC was running and the actual size of the turbo, is 18-19 safe for rods?


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

I ran 22psi daily on California 91 octane. I think you're able to get 93 octane in your area and will run more aggressive timing, so I'd keep it in the 20psi range to be safe. Your best bet is to dyno it and crank it up until you're pusing 300 lb/ft torque. As you see from my dyno sheet, running even up to 323 lb/ft at the wheels does not suddenly bend rods and make your motor crap itself. 

In fact, I don't know how much hard data there is out there about 300 lb/ft at the wheels being the limit for stock rods. Perhaps it's an old wives tale. Not sure where this started, but my motor was able to handle quite a bit more. Maybe others can chime in.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

TimC said:


> I ran 22psi daily on California 91 octane. I think you're able to get 93 octane in your area and will run more aggressive timing, so I'd keep it in the 20psi range to be safe. Your best bet is to dyno it and crank it up until you're pusing 300 lb/ft torque. As you see from my dyno sheet, running even up to 323 lb/ft at the wheels does not suddenly bend rods and make your motor crap itself.
> 
> In fact, I don't know how much hard data there is out there about 300 lb/ft at the wheels being the limit for stock rods. Perhaps it's an old wives tale. Not sure where this started, but my motor was able to handle quite a bit more. Maybe others can chime in.


Now that you say it, I never really found any "real" evidence, just saw it and lived by it. I still do not want to risk the motor, as I doubt I have the skill to throw in drop in rods. My original plan was to just crank it to 20psi, but I think what I'm going to do is start around 15, go for a run, turn it up to 18-19 go for a run, and then keep it there until she gets dynoed. I'm really skeptical about a few more psi for the risk of my motor. In april a bunch of us are going for a dyno day, we will see what type of numbers are put down. It will be the first dyno I've ever done


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Zneith said:


> Now that you say it, I never really found any "real" evidence, just saw it and lived by it. I still do not want to risk the motor, as I doubt I have the skill to throw in drop in rods. My original plan was to just crank it to 20psi, but I think what I'm going to do is start around 15, go for a run, turn it up to 18-19 go for a run, and then keep it there until she gets dynoed. I'm really skeptical about a few more psi for the risk of my motor. In april a bunch of us are going for a dyno day, we will see what type of numbers are put down. It will be the first dyno I've ever done


:thumbup::beer:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

If it makes you feel any safer a friend of mine ran a 35r @23-25 psi on a stock bottom end years ago and never had an issue.


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

TimC said:


> In fact, I don't know how much hard data there is out there about 300 lb/ft at the wheels being the limit for stock rods. Perhaps it's an old wives tale. Not sure where this started, but my motor was able to handle quite a bit more. Maybe others can chime in.


Some have snapped rods with stock turbos, some have been fine running larger turbos like above. There are some people that think they have a good running motor only to find when installing new rods that the stock ones were bent. There is no limit on when they will break, just depends on the power level and how it is run. Its a better safe than sorry deal.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

hootyburra said:


> If it makes you feel any safer a friend of mine ran a 35r @23-25 psi on a stock bottom end years ago and never had an issue.




That sounds really dangerous haha. What boost are you running on your car? I want to optimize and get the most out of my setup, just not put my motor in danger by doing it. I really wanted to see whp closer to 340-350 but I know that is out of the question with the bottom end being stock. Do you recommend taking it step by step, IE: 15psi, then 18-19, then dyno? Or just dial it into 20 and call it a day? My bottom end is always int he back of my mind and I'd hate to oh lets do a nice pull, and BOOM.:banghead:


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

If you are worried about blowing your motor, either get rods or keep the psi below 20 and cross your fingers.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

cincyTT said:


> If you are worried about blowing your motor, either get rods or keep the psi below 20 and cross your fingers.


Staying at 18-19 until dynoed. To much time and effort to blow this up for 1psi


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I have mine set at 20 and beat on it regularly 2nd through 6th gear....

Like stated every motor is different


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

hootyburra said:


> I have mine set at 20 and beat on it regularly 2nd through 6th gear....
> 
> Like stated every motor is different


Yeah, for right now, I have it dialed into like 17.5psi. I first turned it to about 15 psi, then up to 17.5.... and wow When the boost gets to about 15psi and climbs..... the car doesnt want to stop pulling. I'm very happy with the way the car performs, although I'm sure this isnt going to be enough power for me after awhile:laugh: Oh well, this is the DD so it is staying where it is. maybe down the road ill be able to pick up a project car.

Wanted to thank everyone that has helped for the advice, tips, and answering my dumb questions. I really hope there are guys out there that consider this kit, especially when a budget is in mind. Don't expect mind boggling numbers from this turbo setup, but you can expect a decently powerful 1.8t, with a decent spool and pull. If I had to do this all over again, I would. I have learned ALOT from this build, as this was my first, and although it isn't a "name brand" kit, I do hope this opens the eyes of some other guys out there that yes it is an ebay kit, but THEY WORK. Im coming up on 1,000 miles, and id say 9xxmiles of that was ran at 10psi. I guess this is the tried to true time, when running a higher boost. I'll keep this updated the best I can, but from what I can see, this thing just pulls! Thanks again everyone!:wave:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^:thumbup: 22.5psi daily and i beat on it a lot sometimes... however i wont be responsible if u blow urs up at that psi lol


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Big_Tom said:


> ^^^:thumbup: 22.5psi daily and i beat on it a lot sometimes... however i wont be responsible if u blow urs up at that psi lol


Well, the line running from the intercooler piping popped off yesterday and i spiked 24-25.... Definitely getting a good clamp on that. I realized that was a clamp that was never tightened:facepalm::facepalm: Kicked myself in the ass afterwards, doesnt look like any damage was done, I saw it right away. I'm gunna run 20psi I think, but thats after the dyno I think. Scared to risk it


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## jonpwn (Aug 13, 2010)

so all in all, how much did you spend on this project? including the FMIC that you had from before and all other aftermarket parts.

and are all of your upgraded parts ebay parts? I am also going for the budget parts and want to know just how well they go. 
So far i've heard that godspeed is a good FMIC maker, and Tsudo makes a good 3" exhaust. any other tips?


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

jonpwn said:


> so all in all, how much did you spend on this project? including the FMIC that you had from before and all other aftermarket parts.
> 
> and are all of your upgraded parts ebay parts? I am also going for the budget parts and want to know just how well they go.
> So far i've heard that godspeed is a good FMIC maker, and Tsudo makes a good 3" exhaust. any other tips?


If you get this kit, you get a FMIC that is direct fit for an MK4 jetta/gti. Cost has been covered in this thread over and over again. I bought a lot of extra siht I either didn't have and needed, or things that needed to be replaced in the kit. Overall, I'd say for software, extra things that I wanted, the turbo kit, I paid probably around 2.5k total? Maybe a little bit more. It was about 1200 for fueling and software, and another 680 for the turbo kit. The rest is extra stuff like the MBC, catch can, return and supply lines, etc.


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

good quality video from outside please   

want to hear the screamer lol


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## deadleavesdie (Jun 26, 2006)

Awesome write up, great experiment. Me and a buddy were going to get an ebay setup to do this same kind of test, we got talking about how bad they could actually be.



Good show mate.:thumbup::thumbup::beer:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

bl33su said:


> good quality video from outside please
> 
> want to hear the screamer lol


I'll have to have the g/f post one up. 2nd gear is still the money gear; once boost spools in second the car rips, 3rd gear pulls too, just gotta be in the powerband. Much faster than the ko3


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## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

Love the quality, precision, and patience in this thread.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Well just an update, I'm at about 1k miles on this new setup, and I've been running 17.5psi for awhile now. Sometimes it spikes to 18-19, depends where in the powerband I stomp on it. 

So far, extremely happy with it. The car has so much more top end balls, it just wants to keep going. I need to find a different coupler and clamp to hook the fmic pipe to the turbo; was messing around with a buddy last night on 309, just to see what kinda balls my car had and we started in 3rd gear at like 40. He has an ss slowbault thats all done up, pretty quick car, respectable. Well when we first took off, he took the lead mostly because I was pretty much standing still waiting for this turbo to spool Once it did, I was right up next to him, shifted to 4th and started pulling away. Then shifted to 5th and the fmic coupler going to the turbo popped off, scared the living hell outta me. Needless to say, I reclamped her down and now everything is running normal. 

I haven't had any failures yet, no bad signs of things going bad, no exhaust leaks. The injectors and fuel pump are running good with the tune, and no cel's. Extremely happy with the car and I'll keep this thread updated.


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## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

what injectors you use? get 440cc injectors? I think not exceed 19-20psi


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Motor069 said:


> what injectors you use? get 440cc injectors? I think not exceed 19-20psi


630cc Siemens Injectors. Running 17.5psi still, just until some bugs get worked out.


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## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

I finished installing the turbo, I thought it was so complicated) but worth it, now run something in 14 to 15 psi spike, do not know why, although using MBC ... lack of space we had to suffer what I chose internalwastgate but worth it, I'll keep in touch with what happened, good luck


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## Nevaeh_Speed (Jul 9, 2004)

My buddy is running a t3/t4 50 trim @ 14psi. turbo has had no problems.


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## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

my turbo is death( tomorrow, I'll come back with pictures


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

looking forward to the carnage in the pics, I never could kill mine. I'm guessing improper lubrication or imbalanced from the factory.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

TimC said:


> looking forward to the carnage in the pics, I never could kill mine. I'm guessing improper lubrication or imbalanced from the factory.


 Or failure to prime her up before starting her.


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## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

I do not know if I order EMUSA turbo, or looking for a serious producer 

I have 5 bar oil pressure, turbo was balanced, I think it was a manufacturing defect, do not know why the spool had scratched in the compresor's wall, the shaft is not playing more than 1 mm


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## V-dubbulyuh (Nov 13, 2005)

Zneith said:


> Or failure to prime her up before starting her.


 
That happens on even the more expensive/high end turbos. I think this might be a reason a lot of people are killing their Precision turbos. 

Will be good to see the pics tho.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

V-dubbulyuh said:


> That happens on even the more expensive/high end turbos. I think this might be a reason a lot of people are killing their Precision turbos.
> 
> Will be good to see the pics tho.


 i agree this happens a lot, but precisions problems are with the seals on some of their turbos. thats why they take them back to rebuild for free in a lot of cases.


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## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

pictures 
http://www.netsight.ro/recn/2011-03/18/106.jpg 
http://www.netsight.ro/recn/2011-03/18/107.jpg 
http://www.netsight.ro/recn/2011-03/18/108.jpg 
http://www.netsight.ro/recn/2011-03/18/109.jpg 
http://www.netsight.ro/recn/2011-03/18/110.jpg 
http://www.netsight.ro/recn/2011-03/18/111.jpg 
http://www.netsight.ro/recn/2011-03/18/112.JPG 
I apologize otherwise I could just put pictures


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## DanA4 (Feb 28, 2011)

youre still using the factory oil feed line?? :what:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^wow


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

:facepalm::facepalm:


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## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

DanA4 said:


> youre still using the factory oil feed line?? :what:


 if we managed to adapt 

spool very slow ... Boost spike ...1-0.6 bar, smoke evacuation, we decided to remove the compressor and what I found., 

I mounted to a friend as an A3, at it works perfectly, I removed last night to see what conditions is the turbo is OK, no shaft play, no oil, no spike boost 

Excuse my mistake of writing


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

To be fair, the precision turbos arent usually outright failures. Just seal leakages. This one looks like your thrust bearing is gone which is an outright failure. Seems to me that there is a 30-40% failure rate on these turbos, so literally, you wins some, lose some. But that is a pretty high rate of failure on any new part. Good luck with it though :thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Funny how the one using the stock oil feed has the failure. 
However multiple other people in these threads have not had any issues. 
I will be going w/ a 3076 when I build the bottom end and hopefully get an AEB head. 

Right now the money spent on this kit is well worth it imo. 

If I could only figure out my idle issue.... 
Really thinking it's the injectors at this point


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## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

My a4 AEB really is I thought for a while will be enough 44 trim, but will bring rods, it will be somewhat higher (3071-3076 ballbering) just could not resist doing even 60-70 miles


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Motor069 said:


> My a4 AEB really is I thought for a while will be enough 44 trim, but will bring rods, it will be somewhat higher (3071-3076 ballbering) just could not resist doing even 60-70 miles


 The communication barrier is really lacking here mang...


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

hootyburra said:


> The communication barrier is really lacking here mang...


 I couldnt quite follow that either. 

On another note, no real problems with the turbo kit itself. The only thing I'm struggling with currently is keeping the coupler on the turbo and intercooler piping. I have another silicone coupler on order and I'll be using T bolt clamps to keep it intact. Hoping this works.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Zneith said:


> I couldnt quite follow that either.
> 
> On another note, no real problems with the turbo kit itself. The only thing I'm struggling with currently is keeping the coupler on the turbo and intercooler piping. I have another silicone coupler on order and I'll be using T bolt clamps to keep it intact. Hoping this works.


 I spray some hairspray on a rag and wipe down the inside of the coupler before applying. 

You can also rough up the IC pipe with some sand paper if it really won't stay.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

hootyburra said:


> I spray some hairspray on a rag and wipe down the inside of the coupler before applying.
> 
> You can also rough up the IC pipe with some sand paper if it really won't stay.


 Good tip:beer::thumbup: Ill give that a shot


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## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

never said it was not good, I just submitted my failure. I'm ready I decided tomorrow to order another EMUSA turbo (I hope you have better luck)


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Motor069 said:


> never said it was not good, I just submitted my failure. I'm ready I decided tomorrow to order another EMUSA turbo (I hope you have better luck)


 
Why do we need better luck? :what:


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## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

Zneith said:


> On another note, no real problems with the turbo kit itself. The only thing I'm struggling with currently is keeping the coupler on the turbo and intercooler piping. I have another silicone coupler on order and I'll be using T bolt clamps to keep it intact. Hoping this works.


 I always wash the hose and pipe with brake cleaner and make two clamps is guaranteed for life 

lucky thing was for me


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> Funny how the one using the stock oil feed has the failure.
> However multiple other people in these threads have not had any issues.
> I will be going w/ a 3076 when I build the bottom end and hopefully get an AEB head.
> 
> ...


 :laugh::thumbup:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Big_Tom said:


> :laugh::thumbup:


 Well this really blows to report..... What has been happening lately is my coupler going from the intercooler pipe to the turbo has been popping off under load. So I ordered a new coupler and installed it. Took the car for a drive, obviously letting it warm up first. I boosted to about 15 psi just for the first run and something didnt sound quite right. As soon as I left off the throttle, it sounded like a horrifying exhaust leak. So pulled back into my place, popped the hood, and this is what I found: 

 

:thumbdown::facepalm::thumbdown::facepalm::thumbdown::facepalm::banghead::banghead::banghead: 

Now I have to rip the downpipe out, have it rewelded, and pray that it stays. Of course, I'm the one that gets the "fun" kit I'll post back with an update when I get this done.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I would get rid of all those flanges and have another flex section welded into the exhaust. 

Send sam some pictures and keep on he he may refund you some money.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

hootyburra said:


> I would get rid of all those flanges and have another flex section welded into the exhaust.
> 
> Send sam some pictures and keep on he he may refund you some money.


 I've had the kit for some time now... I really do not think he is going to refund anything. I'm not sure whatthe best thing for me to do is.....


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

Sorry, man, I send my condolences. Interesting thing is that the welds on your downpipe look much better than on mine, which never failed. By better I mean perfect, small welds. The welds on mine were obviously done by hand, were sloppy, and very chunky. I guess chunky is better in this case. This area of the downpipe is obviously a high stress point on our setups. Even the CTS topmount kits break at this point just like your's did at the welds. (see the recent thread posted on this). 

My suggestion is to get the ATP downpipe, though it costs 400 bucks. I recently picked one up when I found the Ebay downpipe fits only an Ebay turbo, not the Turbonetics. :thumbdownanother way these turbos are not identical clones.) 

On the other hand, have the sucker welded, make sure your motor mounts are as stiff as you can live with, and save the cash.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

TimC said:


> Sorry, man, I send my condolences. Interesting thing is that the welds on your downpipe look much better than on mine, which never failed. By better I mean perfect, small welds. The welds on mine were obviously done by hand, were sloppy, and very chunky. I guess chunky is better in this case. This area of the downpipe is obviously a high stress point on our setups. Even the CTS topmount kits break at this point just like your's did at the welds. (see the recent thread posted on this).
> 
> My suggestion is to get the ATP downpipe, though it costs 400 bucks. I recently picked one up when I found the Ebay downpipe fits only an Ebay turbo, not the Turbonetics. :thumbdownanother way these turbos are not identical clones.)
> 
> On the other hand, have the sucker welded, make sure your motor mounts are as stiff as you can live with, and save the cash.


 With the ATP downpipe, do you think this would be a better way to go rather than welding the current one? If so, will the ATP downpipe fit the way it should? As in without having the two extra flanges there to bump it over? I'm really considering the ATP downpipe now because I would have been screwed if this didnt happen 10 seconds from home


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## sponcar (Feb 5, 2010)

so far this ebay turbo had works fine for must people in here doing the experiment.


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

Zneith said:


> With the ATP downpipe, do you think this would be a better way to go rather than welding the current one? If so, will the ATP downpipe fit the way it should? As in without having the two extra flanges there to bump it over? I'm really considering the ATP downpipe now because I would have been screwed if this didnt happen 10 seconds from home


 I can't make any 100% guarantees, but I think the ATP piece will work for you because it has two v-band connection points that allow it to pivot and rotate around some (at least until you tighten it all up). Regarding fitment in general, it fit my setup perfectly, with no extra flanges. Just make sure you order the 5-bolt adapter, which you will see on their website. 

Will the ATP downpipe welds hold? Only time will tell, it's a super stressed part of our setups, apparently. The only thing worse than having a cheap ebay piece inevitably break, is having an expensive "quality" piece inevitably break. (again, see the recent CTS topmount failure.) I think it's a crapshoot.:banghead:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

TimC said:


> I can't make any 100% guarantees, but I think the ATP piece will work for you because it has two v-band connection points that allow it to pivot and rotate around some (at least until you tighten it all up). Regarding fitment in general, it fit my setup perfectly, with no extra flanges. Just make sure you order the 5-bolt adapter, which you will see on their website.
> 
> Will the ATP downpipe welds hold? Only time will tell, it's a super stressed part of our setups, apparently. The only thing worse than having a cheap ebay piece inevitably break, is having an expensive "quality" piece inevitably break. (again, see the recent CTS topmount failure.) I think it's a crapshoot.:banghead:


 agreed:facepalm: 

I think I'll try a reweld before dropping $400 bucks on a "quality" downpipe.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Zneith said:


> agreed:facepalm:
> 
> I think I'll try a reweld before dropping $400 bucks on a "quality" downpipe.


 I would absolutely re-weld it. 
I would add another flex section. 

I cut my downpipe and had it turned so you don't need the spacers to make it fit under the car. 
Now would be the perfect time for you to do this. 

Take off the spacers and bolt it up then put some marks where it lines up under the car. 

If you are going to go with the vband flange that is sold for around 100 by some vendors... I had one made for around 60. There are pictures somewhere in this thread


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

hootyburra said:


> I would absolutely re-weld it.
> I would add another flex section.
> 
> I cut my downpipe and had it turned so you don't need the spacers to make it fit under the car.
> ...


 :thumbup: 

Actually just looked back for a reference:beer:


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## sponcar (Feb 5, 2010)

are you guys running a ebay turbo from a random seller on ebay or any specific manufacter?


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

sponcar said:


> are you guys running a ebay turbo from a random seller on ebay or any specific manufacter?


 Mine is from the ebay store "speedy racer parts" or "speedy" or "emotors". I've seen all of those names floating around through where I purchased my kit. The turbo kit is an "EMUSA" kit. Hope this helps:thumbup:


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## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

Quick question for you guys. 
When using the ATP manifold, you have to use a Wastegate relocation kit, right? 
Can't run the wastegate directly from the mani, can you? 
Cheers! :thumbup:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

HidRo said:


> Quick question for you guys.
> When using the ATP manifold, you have to use a Wastegate relocation kit, right?
> Can't run the wastegate directly from the mani, can you?
> Cheers! :thumbup:


 With this setup, its an ATP knock off mani for one, and two, yes, you need a wastegate adapter. If you read back awhile, hooty discussed this, and then I started asking questions about it as well.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Everything you need to know has been covered. ... 

I made a separate thread about the wg and it has also been covered in this thread. 

You can search this thread... top right side of the thread iirc


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## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

Got it! 
Never used that search in topic functionality. 
Got what I needed. 
Thanks!!


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

HidRo said:


> Got it!
> Never used that search in topic functionality.
> Got what I needed.
> Thanks!!


 :thumbup:


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## first9t! (Jul 13, 2009)

ended up flipping it 








now have braided lines in, still having trouble putting an intake on, anyone else have this issue?


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## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

Intake pipe in the turbo? 
What turbo is that?


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

HidRo said:


> Intake pipe in the turbo?
> What turbo is that?


 Most of us using this kit used a 90* 3" silicone coupler, cut it down a bit, bent the coolant line as much as possible without breaking it, slipped the coupler on and clamped the living hell out of it. As for the intake, I just used a 3" mandrel bent pipe with a filter on the end of it; works like a charm. 

These might help: 


















Also, if you look a few pages back, hooty was helpful in providing pics of what to do with the cut coupler, the piping that was used, and the filter as well. 

It took me awhile to get this to fit, and make sure you have everything in order because once you get that PITA on, your not going to want to take it off. Good luck


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Yea, you really have to bend those hard lines. 
I stopped when I realized mine started to pinch just a little. 
It is tight in there but I like it that way  

I have had to remove it a few times and after the first two I have getting the turbo out down to about 15 minutes after the oil drains.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> Yea, you really have to bend those hard lines.
> I stopped when I realized mine started to pinch just a little.
> It is tight in there but I like it that way
> 
> I have had to remove it a few times and after the first two I have getting the turbo out down to about 15 minutes after the oil drains.


 ^^^LOL:laugh:


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## first9t! (Jul 13, 2009)

yeah, finally got it on, pain in the ass, as I am not a small guy nor do I have small hands. Next question is the downpipe. I have searched around, where can I get one? not looking to spend $400 on the atp one.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

first9t! said:


> yeah, finally got it on, pain in the ass, as I am not a small guy nor do I have small hands. Next question is the downpipe. I have searched around, where can I get one? not looking to spend $400 on the atp one.


I got mine with the kit from EMUSA


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## first9t! (Jul 13, 2009)

i built my own kit, so am looking for just the downpipe alone. I emailed an ebay seller and they said yes, then I asked for a price and they never got back to me.


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## first9t! (Jul 13, 2009)

Gettin the dp for $85, cant wait


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Hey guys, 

Love this thread, and I talked to a few of you many times before, and I'm glad to see how well you're all doing with this! It's a great day to see that a sub $700 kit can compete with the big name kits. I don't have any plans of going BT with my current 1.8t but I'm sure alot of people would love to.

I was tossing around the idea that all you guys that have these kits should do a quick roll call. Just give which kit it is, turbo, how long you've been running it and any issues you've had and of course the solution to the issue.

This has become a BIG thread and it would show alot of nay sayers and people that can't afford and think there's no option to an expensive kit that there's a good number of you and that there has been alot of success. Plus pictures and/or dyno sheets of your setups would be great!eace:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

DMVDUB said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Love this thread, and I talked to a few of you many times before, and I'm glad to see how well you're all doing with this! It's a great day to see that a sub $700 kit can compete with the big name kits. I don't have any plans of going BT with my current 1.8t but I'm sure alot of people would love to.
> 
> ...


:thumbup:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

DMVDUB said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Love this thread, and I talked to a few of you many times before, and I'm glad to see how well you're all doing with this! It's a great day to see that a sub $700 kit can compete with the big name kits. I don't have any plans of going BT with my current 1.8t but I'm sure alot of people would love to.
> 
> ...


I've been running the EMUSA kit for about 1000 miles. The first major failure I think we had of course was about 2 weeks ago We had the downpipe crack right on a weld. I'm not sure what caused this, the only thing that maybe could relate to it, was the coupler from the intercooler that connected to the turbo kept popping off under boost. There were times that I would have to drive a few miles to a gas station to reattach it, and by then, you know that this thing must've been really hot. It couldn't make any boost, but it still got extremely hot, which inturn, im guessing had the downpipe extremely hot. With the heat cycles, I think it endured far to much heat and the welds had a enough. It only cracked off in that one bend, but it literally cracked off from the whole weld. Pictures are ^.

From the EMUSA Kit, I sold the FMIC, sold my old turbo and downpipe, my old boost gauge. I did not use the oil lines or any hard ware that came with the kit. The bov was sold with the FMIC, and im currently running a true hks ssqv. I purchased an mbc to go with this kit, along with 42dd's catch can, new vacuum lines obviously, new injectors, inline walbro fuel pump, and lastly was Maestro 7 (which still didnt get to much of a chance to play with, still trying to get the car running without any hiccups)

I'd project I spent about $2500-$2600 IN TOTAL (that includes a lot of the things I didnt "need" for the kit, just used to try to make it a bit more reliable.) So far, I'm happy with it, and with any major modification, I expect to be working on this hunk every weekend for the next year

EDIT: Lastly, I think its time for a bigger BOV too, the HKS SSQV seems to flutter like a motherfcuker, even at WOT when the throttle is released and im at 19psi.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

EMUSA: Turbo, mani, wastegate, dp. 
BBP/SpeedElement/Tseudo exhaust 
Walbro Inline, Siemens 630's w/ ECS spacers. 
Eurodyne 630 file, mafless and emissions deletes. 
TurboxS MBC 
AEM A/F, Autometer Cobalt oil and boost gauge. 
APR R1 DV right before the TB. 
Did not use the supplied oil lines or hardware. 

I am running at 20psi dd. And I get on it at least once a day, I have had it to the track and made a few back to back runs. 
Currently around 7000 miles.

Have had the turbo off multiple times and shaft play is the same as day 1. 
Now that I switched to nordlock washers I don't think I will be taking this apart for awhile. ..
All exhaust leaks are fixed

Issues:
Exhaust leaks, downpipe fitment. Reference the thread for pictures and explanations on fixing. 
Waste-gate needs an adapter to fit. 
I had the flange for the oil feed crack and had to replace that. I think this was my fault though. 
Rough Idle.... ..... ..... :facepalm:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

> Rough Idle.... ..... .....


This is a good addition and I cannot believe I spaced on this in my response. With the Eurodyne 630cc mafless tune that we all have, the 630cc Siemens injectors that we all have, there is an irradic idle that we are all trying to track down.


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## first9t! (Jul 13, 2009)

Knock off atp mani from a buddy for $30
T3/t4 .57 trim .63ar for $100 off craigslist
Ebay wastegate for $50 off cl
Oil feed lines and all oil fittings, local shops for $65
Downpipe I made was $5 to hold me till the $85 ebay one came in
When I got my fmic I had planned to go bt so purchased one capable of that
Still running on apr stage 2 tune, stock fuel and stock injectors, running at 14psi
Been on it for about 2 weeks now, and first problem was last night, boost pipe at the turbo popped off

Soo looking at that, dont have much money into this, but I will be putting it on the dyno to see what its pushing someday soon


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## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

after two weeks reached the second turbo, I installed, I tested one day, next day I removed it to check the play, so far everything is ok, now I run 24-25 psi) in 3th gear

but do not know why I still spike ... tomorrow I'll do a boost leak, if we manage to boost line, are very happy

so far, saying it was worth all the invested money and hard work


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Motor069 said:


> after two weeks reached the second turbo, I installed, I tested one day, next day I removed it to check the play, so far everything is ok, now I run 24-25 psi) in 3th gear
> 
> but do not know why I still spike ... tomorrow I'll do a boost leak, if we manage to boost line, are very happy
> 
> so far, saying it was worth all the invested money and hard work


Hard to comprehend.....:screwy::what:


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## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

Zneith said:


> Hard to comprehend.....:screwy::what:


Not THAT hard...
And he is from Romenia.
I can "translate it for you"

after two weeks the second turbo arrived, I installed it, I tested one day, next day I removed it to check the play. so far everything is ok, now I run 24-25 psi) in 3th gear

but do not know why it still spikes ... tomorrow I'll do a boost leak, if we manage to hold boost (not spike and drop), I'll be very happy.

so far, I believe it was worth all the invested money and hard work.

Is this better? :laugh:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

HidRo said:


> Not THAT hard...
> And he is from Romenia.
> I can "translate it for you"
> 
> ...


Yeah, I understood it, just took a bit to comprehend. Thanks though


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## Panama1.8t (Apr 9, 2011)

Hi Guys,

I am new here, but have read most of this very informative thread. Love it!

I have a question that I have not found the answer to... Has anyone run these cheap t3 setups without software???

I currently run my k03s mafless with a diode and mbc and 4bar fpr and some lemmiwinks tweaks . Was wondering if I could upgrade to a ebay t3 kit, 630cc injectors, inline fuel pump..... Could it work? 

I also have a 3" turbo back, silicone TIP, CAI, and evap, N112, N75, N249, SAI all removed.


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## Three3Se7en (Jul 2, 2007)

Gotta run the injectors your tune calls for, but it will run. Just keep the boost down low and will be good.


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## Panama1.8t (Apr 9, 2011)

Thanks for the quick reply.

I don't have a tune, simply relying on ecu baseline map with the wideband o2 sensor to correct the afr. My car runs great currently with k03s one of the fastest 1.8t's in Panama, and most of the other guys are running GIAC (have to drive to costa rico to get it) with same bolt-ons.

In Panama we only have the option of Revo, and the reseller is a dumbass. I have tried contacting revo head office for help with no success.

Obviously I want to run decent boost or why waste my time installing everything.
Will the baseline and wideband 02 be enough to regulate fuelling for a BT if I have 630cc injectors and an inline pump?? I have a vagcom and lemmiwinks of course and can log and tweak, just would like to know if guys think it will work, or better yet.. has someone tried this


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

It "can" be done. It's by far not at all the best way to go about running this setup. But, it can be done. Your biggest obstacle will be correcting the fuel map to keep up with the boost at higher rpms. 

Just think, people were running BT 1.8t's before there was software available. You just need to do alot of logging and make sure you're not leaning out the engine. 

When you run a diode mod, especially if you're running it MAF'less you're limiting the amount of information the ecu sees. If you're clamped at 11psi the ecu is only pushing 11psi worth of fuel into the injectors. YOU NEED TO LOG YOUR AFR'S. Besides that you should be ok. Just start the boost low and work up while tweaking the trim.eace:


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## Panama1.8t (Apr 9, 2011)

DMVDUB said:


> It "can" be done. It's by far not at all the best way to go about running this setup. But, it can be done. Your biggest obstacle will be correcting the fuel map to keep up with the boost at higher rpms.
> 
> Just think, people were running BT 1.8t's before there was software available. You just need to do alot of logging and make sure you're not leaning out the engine.
> 
> When you run a diode mod, especially if you're running it MAF'less you're limiting the amount of information the ecu sees. If you're clamped at 11psi the ecu is only pushing 11psi worth of fuel into the injectors. YOU NEED TO LOG YOUR AFR'S. Besides that you should be ok. Just start the boost low and work up while tweaking the trim.eace:


Awesome Bro! Thanks for the reply.

I have 100's of log files which allowed me to take my car to where it is today. I always turn up boost slowly. 
With mafless and clamped map I thought I was relying on the 02 sensor to correct fueling after 11psi. Am I wrong??
The only thing I was worried about is if the ecu can react to the 02 sensor fast enough to make the injectors dump more fuel.
Currently my mbc is set to 19psi and even with the 4bar at top end I am getting .85 lamdba(perfect in my eyes) when the ecu is requesting .75.


I will give it a try and keep everyone posted.
Unfortunately I live in central america so it will take a long as time to get the parts.
I plan to order the following.
1. Godspeed t3/t4
2. Godspeed manifold
3. Godspeed 38mm wastegate
4. Godspeed FMIC
5. atp oil lines
6. Siemens 630cc from ECS
7. Walboro 255 inline from ECS

I can't locate a cheap downpipe(other than a flange with a short curve to 3" which I can fab into my current 3" system) Anyone have know where I can get one?

Also need a 3" TIP, will a silicone 3" elbow work? I have my doubts due to the coolant line in the area (my current silicone TIP was f in hard to install) If it won't work want can I use? we don't have pep boys in Panama everything needs to ordered.

Am I missing anything?
Car has only 70KM on it so I am going to hold off on rods, and already have a stage 2 clutch.

:beer: for the help!


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## Panama1.8t (Apr 9, 2011)

Oh yah, forgot to add, I am running a Forge SplitR DV/BOV. Will this be able to told the boost on a BT. Forge says you only need 21 clicks(out of 52) for a chipped 1.8t. My car need 32 clicks to hold the measly 19lbs my k03s is running....
Should I order a rip off HKS ebay BOV or something else or will my SplitR (which was expensive and I love it) work for this setup?
:beer:


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## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

Panama1.8t said:


> I will give it a try and keep everyone posted.
> Unfortunately I live in central america so it will take a long as time to get the parts.
> I plan to order the following.
> 1. Godspeed t3/t4
> ...


There is a guy on eBay (I think it's Speedyracer) that sells the t3/t4 turbo kits and if you send him a message he will split a 3" downpipe from kit kit and sell it separately. :thumbup:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Andaloons said:


> There is a guy on eBay (I think it's Speedyracer) that sells the t3/t4 turbo kits and if you send him a message he will split a 3" downpipe from kit kit and sell it separately. :thumbup:


This is where we got all of our shiz from, just give him a *call* and he should be able to help you. If you try to get in contact with him any other way...... well, just good luck haha.

As far as running the car without a tune, the most that any of us had ever did was run a chipped ECU on this setup. I myself ran APR Stage 2 tuning @ 10-11psi for probably 1-2months, zero problems. Your a/f at WOT should be *NO MORE* than 12.4. My car took a bit to adjust, and plan to be working at fixing small things for a long while; especially with knock off kits. Not everything is bolt up, you will be spending more money for extra parts, but in the end, is still cheaper than a "tried and true" setup.

Aside from the turbo, mani, wastegate, and fmic that you get with the kit, you will need a dv/bov, oil return and drain lines, a wastegate adapter, 2 (5) bolt downpipe flanges (unless you go vband), all hardware for securing the mani, turbo, wastegate, etc, a MBC if you dont have one, and lastly, I REALLY REALLY recommend getting a tune, injectors, and if needed, a 3" maf housing. I would hate to spend all this money and only be able to run wastegate pressure We all skimped on the hardware a bit, but as you can see, its holding up. The last thing you wanna do is skimp out on the tune. Believe me when I say 10psi gets boring very fast, and I cant imagine how 7psi would be.... I'm sure the ko3 spiking 20's would be quicker, and obviously faster spool up. Just some things to ponder when piecing this together:thumbup::beer:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Zneith said:


> This is where we got all of our shiz from, just give him a *call* and he should be able to help you. If you try to get in contact with him any other way...... well, just good luck haha.
> 
> As far as running the car without a tune, the most that any of us had ever did was run a chipped ECU on this setup. I myself ran APR Stage 2 tuning @ 10-11psi for probably 1-2months, zero problems. Your a/f at WOT should be *NO MORE* than 12.4. My car took a bit to adjust, and plan to be working at fixing small things for a long while; especially with knock off kits. Not everything is bolt up, you will be spending more money for extra parts, but in the end, is still cheaper than a "tried and true" setup.
> 
> Aside from the turbo, mani, wastegate, and fmic that you get with the kit, you will need a dv/bov, oil return and drain lines, a wastegate adapter, 2 (5) bolt downpipe flanges (unless you go vband), all hardware for securing the mani, turbo, wastegate, etc, a MBC if you dont have one, and lastly, I REALLY REALLY recommend getting a tune, injectors, and if needed, a 3" maf housing. I would hate to spend all this money and only be able to run wastegate pressure We all skimped on the hardware a bit, but as you can see, its holding up. The last thing you wanna do is skimp out on the tune. Believe me when I say 10psi gets boring very fast, and I cant imagine how 7psi would be.... I'm sure the ko3 spiking 20's would be quicker, and obviously faster spool up. Just some things to ponder when piecing this together:thumbup::beer:


well said Z :thumbup:


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## Panama1.8t (Apr 9, 2011)

Zneith said:


> This is where we got all of our shiz from, just give him a *call* and he should be able to help you. If you try to get in contact with him any other way...... well, just good luck haha.
> 
> As far as running the car without a tune, the most that any of us had ever did was run a chipped ECU on this setup. I myself ran APR Stage 2 tuning @ 10-11psi for probably 1-2months, zero problems. Your a/f at WOT should be *NO MORE* than 12.4. My car took a bit to adjust, and plan to be working at fixing small things for a long while; especially with knock off kits. Not everything is bolt up, you will be spending more money for extra parts, but in the end, is still cheaper than a "tried and true" setup.
> 
> Aside from the turbo, mani, wastegate, and fmic that you get with the kit, you will need a dv/bov, oil return and drain lines, a wastegate adapter, 2 (5) bolt downpipe flanges (unless you go vband), all hardware for securing the mani, turbo, wastegate, etc, a MBC if you dont have one, and lastly, I REALLY REALLY recommend getting a tune, injectors, and if needed, a 3" maf housing. I would hate to spend all this money and only be able to run wastegate pressure We all skimped on the hardware a bit, but as you can see, its holding up. The last thing you wanna do is skimp out on the tune. Believe me when I say 10psi gets boring very fast, and I cant imagine how 7psi would be.... I'm sure the ko3 spiking 20's would be quicker, and obviously faster spool up. Just some things to ponder when piecing this together:thumbup::beer:


Thanks, I will call up speedyracer.

I am running a Forge Splitr DV/BOV and a MBC with Diode to clamp the map, also I have no MAF.
Yes I will be getting injectors and fuel pump, so it will be no problem to turn the boost up.... Just worried if the ecu base map and the wideband 02 sensor will be enough to regulate fueling with a BT. It works great on the K03s, but that is obviously a little different from at BT.

Thanks for all the advise!:beer:


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## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

Panama1.8t said:


> I have a question that I have not found the answer to... Has anyone run these cheap t3 setups without software???


My friend uses the stock injectors (260cc) from AGU, put regulator 4 bar (it should reach 300cc), Walbro 255 inline, stage 2 software, running 17psi boost with t3t4 and the car going strong (over 1000 miles)


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Motor069 said:


> My friend uses the stock injectors (260cc) from AGU, put regulator 4 bar (it should reach 300cc), Walbro 255 inline, stage 2 software, running 17psi boost with t3t4 and the car going strong (over 1000 miles)


:facepalm:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Motor069 said:


> My friend uses the stock injectors (260cc) from AGU, put regulator 4 bar (it should reach 300cc), Walbro 255 inline, stage 2 software, running 17psi boost with t3t4 and the car going strong (over 1000 miles)



I hope you have a wideband to monitor your a/f's


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

Panama1.8t said:


> With mafless and clamped map I thought I was relying on the 02 sensor to correct fueling after 11psi. Am I wrong??


No, you are correct the car is adjusting fueiling via the 02 sensor. Its reading the predetermined values in the ECM and adjusted them as needed from the 02 sensor. Contratry to what the other user said the MAP plays really no role in fueling, its more used for a check and balance of everything.



Panama1.8t said:


> The only thing I was worried about is if the ecu can react to the 02 sensor fast enough to make the injectors dump more fuel.



Apparently it does if your actual fueling and tune are semi-kosher. I've always been skeptical since the fueling is now working on an Output signal (02) instead of an input (MAF).



Panama1.8t said:


> Currently my mbc is set to 19psi and even with the 4bar at top end I am getting .85 lamdba(perfect in my eyes) when the ecu is requesting .75.


Well this is what I would be concerned with. Perfect in your eyes? The ECM is a full 1.5 points of meeting its determined fueling. Yes, in my opinion .85 is more ideal, but it clearly shows you your hardware cannot keep up with the software. 

Does your current tune call for a 4bar fpr? You said you've done tons of logging, how do your fuel trims look? Generally speaking there is no reason to use a 4 bar fpr on a ko3. Its simply to much fuel where you don't need it. By adding a 4bar fpr your ECM will be pulling fuel across the board, then when you reving and boosting high it won't know what to do because its been pulling fuel then it gets to a point where it needs to add fuel because its been taking 20% away everywhere else. Fuel trims adapt as a whole not to a certain part of the fueling map. So basically your running rich low&midrange and lean up top. One possiblily why you can't meet your target Air Fuel.




Panama1.8t said:


> Unfortunately I live in central america so it will take a long as time to get the parts....


I have no idea what your situtation is like but if parts are that tough to come buy I'd seriously consider actually buying a name brand kit. The $800 you save from buying chinese copied parts, being sold by ebay middleman out of their garage doesn't offset the extra amount of fabrication and parts needed in my opinion. To me having everything I need in 1 box, installing the kit in 8hrs offsets the money saved by running to parts stores 10x, ghetto double stacking flanges, taking a week to gather up all the extra parts, hell you don't even get a true 50 trim with the kit. But to each is own, I'm kind of old school and would actually rather support the VW community.



> My friend uses the stock injectors (260cc) from AGU, put regulator 4 bar (it should reach 300cc), Walbro 255 inline, stage 2 software, running 17psi boost with t3t4 and the car going strong (over 1000 miles)


That is just downright stupid. What is that like 150% injector duty cycle? Good thing VW made forged pistons because he is going to melt something eventually.:facepalm:


----------



## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

Motor069 said:


> My friend uses the stock injectors (260cc) from AGU, put regulator 4 bar (it should reach 300cc), Walbro 255 inline, stage 2 software, running 17psi boost with t3t4 and the car going strong (over 1000 miles)


any product purchased on Ebay get in my two weeks, yesterday reached Bosch 440cc injectors


----------



## V-dubbulyuh (Nov 13, 2005)

Motor069 said:


> the car going strong (over 1000 miles)


You're not "going strong" in just 1000 miles, he has to get some proper mileage on that car first (not even due for an oil change yet). :thumbup:


----------



## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

bad news guys, as you know my first turbo died shortly after i fit it. my friends turbocharger (the one with the audi a3) also dided yestarday. he went for a mapping session and after three consecutive dyno runs on 22psi it started smoking, we checked how bad is it and it has about 5 mm radial play. we'll take it apart this week and i'll be back with pictures. 

by the way, did any of you runing approx 300-350bhp experienced horrbile torquesteer in 3rd and 4th gear when coming on boost? all steering parts are in good condition and i had the tracking done recently but when it comes on boost at high speeds it dances from one lane to another...


----------



## Panama1.8t (Apr 9, 2011)

Thanks for the advise toolfan!
I have decided to hold off and get a proper kit. Most likely from CTS, and I will need to send in the ecu to get the correct file flashed.


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

Motor069 said:


> bad news guys, as you know my first turbo died shortly after i fit it. my friends turbocharger (the one with the audi a3) also dided yestarday. he went for a mapping session and after three consecutive dyno runs on 22psi it started smoking, we checked how bad is it and it has about 5 mm radial play. we'll take it apart this week and i'll be back with pictures.
> 
> by the way, did any of you runing approx 300-350bhp experienced horrbile torquesteer in 3rd and 4th gear when coming on boost? all steering parts are in good condition and i had the tracking done recently but when it comes on boost at high speeds it dances from one lane to another...


Running lean and extremely high EGT's could contribute to that failure.


As for torquesteer, it really only happens for me when its cold out ~40 degrees or less the car will walk a little bit. But I do have an LSD and heavily moddified suspension so that may help.


----------



## jjjcost (Aug 12, 2008)

I'm following a similar route but I'm only using a eBay dp and ATP style manifold I got two flanges and stacked them for the dp im having a problem trying to get everything to line up did you guys pull the heat shield or some type of special technique haha.


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

I'm going to be doing this route aswell so far got turbo kit, manifold, oil return, feed lines from cts, injectors, tune, dp, flanges, waiting till I put it in to buy the inlet.


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Why aren't you guys just using a Cobra Head and some 45* pipe for your turbo inlets?


----------



## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

DMVDUB said:


> Why aren't you guys just using a Cobra Head and some 45* pipe for your turbo inlets?


Pretty much what hooty and I did.


----------



## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

So what are you guys using for inlet?


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

codergfx said:


> So what are you guys using for inlet?


The search button


----------



## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

codergfx said:


> So what are you guys using for inlet?


All of these questions are covered atleast twice in this thread.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> The search button


LOL


----------



## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

hootyburra said:


> The search button


Lovin the *******s of flametex, but I did look thru this thread and couldn't fin that eBay inlet one guy used, and I'm not about to dish out 300$ + on ATP inlet.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

codergfx said:


> Lovin the *******s of flametex, but I did look thru this thread and couldn't fin that eBay inlet one guy used, and I'm not about to dish out 300$ + on ATP inlet.


Loving the **** out of needles posts. 

Page 21, 23. 

You can search threads individually. I would have no need to flame if the simple things weren't utilized on the vortex.


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

Ya I found it


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

codergfx said:


> Lovin the *******s of flametex, but I did look thru this thread and couldn't fin that eBay inlet one guy used, and I'm not about to dish out 300$ + on ATP inlet.


:thumbdown::facepalm: I probably would refrain as much as possible from criticizing the people that are going to be helping you:what:


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## first9t! (Jul 13, 2009)

first failure. The turbo is now burning oil. Gonna look at my options and see if ima rebuild it or go a different rout.


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

even though your turbo failed you can purchase a brand name T3/T4 or whatever T3 you want to replace it for pretty cheap.


----------



## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

Or you can buy brand name internals and rebuilt it


----------



## first9t! (Jul 13, 2009)

codergfx said:


> Or you can buy brand name internals and rebuilt it


thats probably what ima end up doing


----------



## first9t! (Jul 13, 2009)

quick question. Do any of you use a oil restricter going to the turbo? Wondering as I have read that might be why I am burning oil. Dont wana go get one and do more damage not giving it enough oil. Its a t3/t4 .57 trim. I am running -3 ss feed line.


----------



## jjjcost (Aug 12, 2008)

I'm currently running a .065 restrictor from what I have read the seals are only good for 10psi. I just replaced my t3s60 with the .63/50 eBay and it works great with the restrictor.


----------



## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

so here's the damage to the a3's chinacharger...

     

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9h2jF7Sbl0

mine wasn't that bad, but only because it ran about 80 miles and only on 10 psi, i took it to a garage and the guy will rebuild it, i'll keep yo posted!


----------



## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Motor069 said:


> so here's the damage to the a3's chinacharger...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


If you dont mind me asking, why did you go with the 57trim? From what I've read/heard, there is a significant amount of surging with these turbos, and they plain just dont perform well with our cars. Instead of rebuilding that, I would just get it rebuilt with name brand parts or try a different turbo. Just my .02


----------



## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

That'll buff right out dude, just spit on it and put it back in (porn style).


----------



## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

screwball said:


> That'll buff right out dude, just spit on it and put it back in (porn style).


:laugh::laugh::laugh::beer:


----------



## first9t! (Jul 13, 2009)

Zneith said:


> If you dont mind me asking, why did you go with the 57trim? From what I've read/heard, there is a significant amount of surging with these turbos, and they plain just dont perform well with our cars. Instead of rebuilding that, I would just get it rebuilt with name brand parts or try a different turbo. Just my .02


Im running a 57trim, dont have many problems with surge or anything, it does take a bit to build boost though. Will be going 60 trim this summer though


----------



## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

Zneith said:


> If you dont mind me asking, why did you go with the 57trim? From what I've read/heard, there is a significant amount of surging with these turbos, and they plain just dont perform well with our cars. Instead of rebuilding that, I would just get it rebuilt with name brand parts or try a different turbo. Just my .02


we had the so called 50 trim turbos, but they're really .44 trim. the guy that rebuilds it said he's going to do it for free because he wants to experiment on these china turbos to see if he can make them better. i don't really know what brand parts he's gonna use but if it'll last longer i really don't care...


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

I'm a measure my compressor to see if it's actually 50trim


----------



## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

TimC said:


> First, some pics of the two compressor housings:
> 
> Turbonetics.
> 
> ...


----------



## Nevaeh_Speed (Jul 9, 2004)

Did this car stay running long enough to make it to the dyno? My buddy has an ebay built mk4 bt 1.8t. It's been running fine for over a 6 months now. That puppy moves.


----------



## sabbySC (Dec 29, 2009)

Nevaeh_Speed said:


> Did this car stay running long enough to make it to the dyno? My buddy has an ebay built mk4 bt 1.8t. It's been running fine for over a 6 months now. That puppy moves.


Has your buddy got his onto a dyno yet?

How much boost is he running?


----------



## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

Nevaeh_Speed said:


> Did this car stay running long enough to make it to the dyno? My buddy has an ebay built mk4 bt 1.8t. It's been running fine for over a 6 months now. That puppy moves.


If you're referring to my car, yes, it ran for 20,000+ miles and was running strong with no problems when I swapped out turbos. Dyno is posted earlier in this thread and it put out about 310whp likely due to to the small compressor.


----------



## UrbanFox (May 1, 2011)

the turbo appears to be very close to the bulk head! does the stock turbo and manifold run as close?


----------



## jjjcost (Aug 12, 2008)

I'm have my car running great with this turbo only problem is I can't boost over 14 psi I have no leaks and I'm running a turbonetics wastegate and a mbc any ideas guys?


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## fodo1.8t (Sep 21, 2010)

do you guys think this would be a good starting point

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-G...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

fodo1.8t said:


> do you guys think this would be a good starting point
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-G...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories


Be the test dummy like Tim was for the '50 trim'


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## VW-Pssst (Jun 10, 2007)

fodo1.8t said:


> do you guys think this would be a good starting point
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-G...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories


Was curious about these too. Try it :thumbup:

I'm trying the crazy tube manifold for my 1.8t i got it off ebay and a ebay ko4 right now, just installed it on saturday. Manifold had bolts that were a real pain to get too.... that manifold looks like it has the same bolt awkward locations.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

So who in this thread has smoke tested or seafoamed their car and found the exhaust leaks? 


Or have you had all this china hardware decked? Have you verified your manifold is flat after using it? 

My china ATP manifold warped constantly with a 3071R @ 22psi.

Also running these turbos? Are you guys retarded? I have to ask, because compressor shards are going to cost you about what 2 name brand kits run unless you are junkyarding these cars back together.

Glad to see it is still going, and the blind are leading the blind.


----------



## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

gdoggmoney said:


> So who in this thread has smoke tested or seafoamed their car and found the exhaust leaks?
> 
> 
> Or have you had all this china hardware decked? Have you verified your manifold is flat after using it?
> ...


It's time for me to do some maintenance on mine, double check everything. The dub has been neglected lately, the bike has been out instead. I plan on seafoaming and doing a pressure test, cleaning up the bay, valve cover gasket, oil change, reseat injectors (I saw one of them wet around the outside of it, suspecting an o-ring). In all honesty, I'm still somewhat happy with this turbo setup, but I'm sure name quality parts that you have been preaching is a much better route to go. With me being strapped for cash at the time, I'm still ok with my decision, but I'm sure I'll jump ship to something better, "name brand" per say. I need to check for shaft play on the turbo. But like I said, these things all need to be looked at. A lot fo this crap you wouldn't need to dick with if it was a name brand kit, but in the end, its the owner's choice.

The erratic idle issue that we are facing is getting old, but the gf also decided to break the laptop screen that has my maestro sh*t on it:facepalm: Still waiting for a replacement screen so I can get this sh*tbox fixed.


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## jjjcost (Aug 12, 2008)

Have you checked the tb? My 1.8t ran like crap before I cleaned it


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

jjjcost said:


> Have you checked the tb? My 1.8t ran like crap before I cleaned it


Yeah, before going BT, I had a problem with the TB. Cleaned it good with carb cleaner, let it idle, fixed my EPC light issue. Thanks for the tip though:thumbup:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

I think the issue with the idle is tuning, damn Eurodyne 630cc file. We will see though, with all the little stuff that "could" be wrong, I won't point the finger until I'm sure.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Well...... I noticed a sound during the winter, when the car was cold that I really didn't like. After the car would warm up, it would go away (so I thought). I'll be verifying this after work: I seafoamed the car the other day, just wanted to check out some exhaust leaks. For some reason, the bov responded better after doing this, and my idle got a tad bit better. I found exhaust leaks at the turbo, and somewhere below the downpipe; im guessing the wastegate. Anyway, I could take the bottom side bolt out of the turbo with my hand:screwy: 

The sound that I'm hearing sounds like something is rubbing against metal, as in a compressor wheel rubbing.... I dont ever go into boost until the car is at operating temp, but like I said, I noticed it even at 0psi, especially when it was cold out and the car was cold. I'm pretty sure I'm going to find a MASSIVE amount of shaft play with the turbo. I'm still decently tight on money, especially with the baby's 1st birthday coming up so I'll probably have to find a used turbo, or buy another cheapy hunk of sh!t. Not really sure what I want to do yet, just wanted to post my findings. 

I'm still having an irradic idle issue, but I'm sure the pre 02 exhaust leaks arent helping the matter.

As it stands now, I would really like to get a set of drop in rods, and a 3071r, but there is no way that is happening anytime soon, and I doubt I have the tools or knowledge to tear down my motor.... never did before. Ill report back once I take the intake off and can check for shaft play.

Let the fun begin:thumbdown::facepalm::screwy::banghead:


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Soooo. We just found a ton of pre primary O2 sensor leaks YET AGAIN on one of these kits. Every one of you guys blamed the TUNE first. Its kinda funny...


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Soooo. We just found a ton of pre primary O2 sensor leaks YET AGAIN on one of these kits. Every one of you guys blamed the TUNE first. Its kinda funny...



My car acted like this OUT OF THE BOX.... And when this was opened, the turbo kit was just installed. Things were retorqued but havent been for a few months. I had issues with Eurodyne before I even got to flash the ECU. We have good reasons to look at the tune. There are 2 guys including me that I know of running this kit and they have problems, but there are several other members running "name brand" setups and have the same things, no exhaust leaks, no boost leaks, nothing. 

Please, you didnt even provide constructive criticism or anything remotely close to it. Keep those comments to yourself as they are unnecessary and downright pointless. K thx

:thumbdown::facepalm:


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Pre primary o2 exhaust leaks are the main cause of issues with mafless tunes. When the maf is removed from the loop, the file relys heavily on EXTREMELY accurate primary o2 readings. Mafless files tend to be fickle for many because of this. A quick search will yield just as many, or more issues with Unitronics mafless tunes as well. This is the reason that GIAC, Revo, APR, etc. all keep the maf "in the loop". Its a more reliable, predictable, safe way to ensure a good tune. Mafless tunes were created to simplify REAL BT setups. Not because they are better by any means. They most certainly leave something on the table. The issue isnt the tune itself USUALLY.. The issue is the sensitivity of the tune. Something that is pretty much unavoidable with the redundant check and balance of the Maf being taken out of the loop. 

To clarify my position on the subject.....


----------



## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Pre primary o2 exhaust leaks are the main cause of issues with mafless tunes. When the maf is removed from the loop, the file relys heavily on EXTREMELY accurate primary o2 readings. Mafless files tend to be fickle for many because of this. A quick search will yield just as many, or more issues with Unitronics mafless tunes as well. This is the reason that GIAC, Revo, APR, etc. all keep the maf "in the loop". Its a more reliable, predictable, safe way to ensure a good tune. Mafless tunes were created to simplify REAL BT setups. Not because they are better by any means. They most certainly leave something on the table. The issue isnt the tune itself USUALLY.. The issue is the sensitivity of the tune. Something that is pretty much unavoidable with the redundant check and balance of the Maf being taken out of the loop.
> 
> To clarify my position on the subject.....


That was a much better response, and actually, thank you for clarifying. With ^ said, that makes a lot more sense. I checked the turbo for shaft play last night and there was nothing, just about the amount the turbo started with; which was little to none. There is still a noise that I cannot diagnose though. When the turbo is coming down from spooling, it sounds like something is grinding against the turbine housing. It slows down as the compressor wheel slows down. I orginially thought it was shaft play, but I checked it and there was none. Any thoughts on that? Also while I was at it, I tightened down the turbo bolts and down pipe bolts again, they were a tad loose but not too much. The car seems to idle a lot better, but I'm still concerned about the noise that I hear. It started out in the winter time, when the car would just start warming up I'd hear it. Maybe a bearing? I'm really not sure and not sure if its worth replacing the turbo. Any thoughts?


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

The turbo is shot most likely. Id just baby it, and keep ur eyes peeled for a holset


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## tractorsosa (Aug 19, 2009)

can't belive it.. i just read 31 pages!


----------



## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

tractorsosa said:


> can't belive it.. i just read 31 pages!


You are now part of the elite few who have patience and a thirst for knowledge. :thumbup:


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

tractorsosa said:


> can't belive it.. i just read 31 pages!


:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> The turbo is shot most likely. Id just baby it, and keep ur eyes peeled for a holset


I was just surprised that there was no shaft play. Im banking on a dead turbo and checking out the classifieds for a used one. Which turbo do you recommend that will bolt up to my setup? Just another t3/t4?


----------



## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

tractorsosa said:


> can't belive it.. i just read 31 pages!


I did the same about 15 pages ago, but there is a crap load of useful information here. I don't regret reading this. I've probably read it 5-6 times already all the way through.:thumbup:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

get a real garrett t3/t4 journal bearing i think you will need to get the 5 bolt housing tho


----------



## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Big_Tom said:


> get a real garrett t3/t4 journal bearing i think you will need to get the 5 bolt housing tho


exhaust side is 5 bolt as of right now


----------



## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

Zneith said:


> I was just surprised that there was no shaft play. Im banking on a dead turbo and checking out the classifieds for a used one. Which turbo do you recommend that will bolt up to my setup? Just another t3/t4?


As you know from earlier in the thread, I found a dead Turbonetics (basically a Garrett) 50 trim on the board that I rebuilt for 60 bucks (paid about 150 for the turbo itself). Remember that if you go with a real T3/T4 the exhaust housing 5-bolt will be tilted a few degrees so that your EMUSA downpipe will probably no longer fit (they are not perfect clones). Of course you can cut and reweld your downpipe if you are so inclined or buy the ATP v-band downpipe as I did. The other option is to just reuse the Ebay turbine housing, which I was tempted to try, but thought that it looked a little smaller than the real Turbonetics .63AR housing. However, I think I was just seeing s*** that day. Good luck as always.


----------



## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

TimC said:


> As you know from earlier in the thread, I found a dead Turbonetics (basically a Garrett) 50 trim on the board that I rebuilt for 60 bucks (paid about 150 for the turbo itself). Remember that if you go with a real T3/T4 the exhaust housing 5-bolt will be tilted a few degrees so that your EMUSA downpipe will probably no longer fit (they are not perfect clones). Of course you can cut and reweld your downpipe if you are so inclined or buy the ATP v-band downpipe as I did. The other option is to just reuse the Ebay turbine housing, which I was tempted to try, but thought that it looked a little smaller than the real Turbonetics .63AR housing. However, I think I was just seeing s*** that day. Good luck as always.


Thanks for the informative response:thumbup:

I wish everyone would answer like this:beer:


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## tractorsosa (Aug 19, 2009)

Andaloons said:


> You are now part of the elite few who have patience and a thirst for knowledge. :thumbup:


actually thi is a good write up! i like the how brave u guys are for this experiment, and like in every other thread are few haters that always try to look like they always right ! im glad they do have the money to do it right at the first time, but for those who dont, and keep spending more and more in replacing parts to get wht they want i bet u is excited too.. good luck :thumbup:


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

tractorsosa said:


> actually thi is a good write up! i like the how brave u guys are for this experiment, and like in every other thread are few haters that always try to look like they always right ! im glad they do have the money to do it right at the first time, but for those who dont, and keep spending more and more in replacing parts to get wht they want i bet u is excited too.. good luck :thumbup:


Not sure if this was a compliment, an insult, or both..


----------



## tractorsosa (Aug 19, 2009)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Not sure if this was a compliment, an insult, or both..


sorry if my grammar isnt good as everybody else here, english is not my native language but it is a compliment:thumbup: for those brave soul dubbers


----------



## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

Should I run a oil restrictor for the turbo?


----------



## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

no.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Smoking in between shifts.


----------



## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

As far as I know, you should use one. But...


----------



## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

But?


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ but u dont have to run a restictor if u dont want to. dont be surprised if your car smokes and/or the turbo dies tho


----------



## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

Well I want it to be safe and not blow the seals cuz of no restrictor so how big is a good sized restricter?


----------



## first9t! (Jul 13, 2009)

got a bigger turbo today, turbo is hitting the wastegate, where did you guys get the adapters for the POS manifold? 










new one is on right. :thumbup:


----------



## j.burton50 (Oct 20, 2008)

atp turbo sales the wg adapter.


----------



## first9t! (Jul 13, 2009)

ended up buying some wastegate flanges, just gonna make my own lol :thumbup:


----------



## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

How big should I run the restrictor? .060 or .065 I got a -4AN line


----------



## [email protected] (Jan 2, 2009)

Don't use one *unless* it smokes and there is no possible way to cure it otherwise (EG: working on oil drain line, fixing crankcase pressure issues, etc)

They almost always burn up the bearings in the turbo from lack of oil, on journal bearing stuff.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

There is actually no 'lack of oil' issue on running a restrictor. You'll get plenty of oil coming out of a .065" orifice at low and high rpm's. I have turbos going on 5yrs running a restrictor from day one. You would think if there was a problem, it would've shown itself by now. What it does do is curtail the pressure w/in the chra so its 'nicer' on the seal specs. Even on GT series turbos, they had to run a restrictor ON TOP of an internally built in restrictor as there is too much volume and pressure using one.


----------



## [email protected] (Jan 2, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> There is actually no 'lack of oil' issue on running a restrictor. You'll get plenty of oil coming out of a .065" orifice at low and high rpm's. I have turbos going on 5yrs running a restrictor from day one. You would think if there was a problem, it would've shown itself by now. What it does do is curtail the pressure w/in the chra so its 'nicer' on the seal specs. Even on GT series turbos, they had to run a restrictor ON TOP of an internally built in restrictor as there is too much volume and pressure using one.


Probably depends on the CHRA. With the bullseyes, they ask for a -4an, absolutely no restrictor- and it does not smoke. My old SC61 was fried after only a few thousand miles also, with no restrictor, back in the day. 

Also, the GT series work just fine without one, if your return line is setup well. 

It's easier to over supply it with oil, and go backwards, then it is to fry the thing from oil starvation and rebuild it.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Probably depends on the CHRA. With the bullseyes, they ask for a -4an, absolutely no restrictor- and it does not smoke. My old SC61 was fried after only a few thousand miles also, with no restrictor, back in the day.
> 
> Also, the GT series work just fine without one, if your return line is setup well.
> 
> It's easier to over supply it with oil, and go backwards, then it is to fry the thing from oil starvation and rebuild it.


I've had varied experiences w/ the bullseyes as well. Some require it, some dont. Bullseyes use a larger shaft, large bushing system, very similar to the big shaft garrett stuff, so heat soak is an issue with compromised oiling systems. I've had many instances where I did have to make a restrictor for those as well and never ran into a problem where the restrictor'ed setup caused a problem. Turbo manufacturing these days is a gray area, you have to apply different rules at times to the same part. The GT series turbos have an extremely flimsy seal behind the comp wheel. If you go over on chra pressures even by a little, your engine will be consuming oil. Your filter is even remotely clogged, it will leak past that seal as well. Its a given...

Again, you're not starving your turbo using a restrictor. Its disgusting how much oil goes past a .065" orifice at rpm's...


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

Thank you guys for the explanation! Im goin to try out a .065 restrictor and see how it goes.


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## jjjcost (Aug 12, 2008)

I'm running a .065 restrictor on the eBay has about 5000 miles on it pushing 21 psi I'd say you will be fine


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

Alright I'm ordering one right now


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## imalleuro'd (Nov 8, 2010)

I pieced my setup together using an ebay "ATP" manifold, cheap-o T3/T4 turbo, Braided Stainless lines that I put together, a stainless steel v-band adapter, ebay 38mm WG and a replica ATP Downpipe. As for everything else on my setup, I am running 42DD 3'' catback, EuroJet FMIC, yadda yadda yadda. Still waiting on a few parts to come in to finish everything up, but so far everything has gone pretty smoothly just really god damn messy. Will repost when I fire her up.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Can you guys tell me where I can get these sweet custom wastegate gaskets?











They look like they would hold up excellent to 2000 degree EGT's. Surely they must be available seperately. 

I guess if not, I can just get some wax paper from my kitchen and make my own.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

those are some pretty weak lookin gaskets. :facepalm:


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## 03redgti (Feb 18, 2006)

why is this thread still going? is this guy serious? make his own gaskets out of wax paper..lol oh my.


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

03redgti said:


> why is this thread still going? is this guy serious? make his own gaskets out of wax paper..lol oh my.


He's owned a few BT cars.. He's being sarcastic im sure


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

gdoggmoney...If you're really interested (which you're not), those gaskets held up fine. Rather, it was the gasket type that came with my ebay dump tube that took a crap on me (see the first few pages of this thread for the gasket carnage). The gaskets in your pic are made of some sort of fibrous asbestos material that held up fine for many thousands of miles. When my ebay wastegate diaphragm blew (see earlier in the thread) I did replace the gaskets with proper metal ones, but the crappy asbestos ones were still holding. 

Don't talk s**** about these crappy ebay components unless you been there.

As for you dubinsinceuwereindiapers, it's your fault I even started this whole damn ebay experiment. I remember years ago when you found a k04/t28 hybrid crazy ass turbo clone on ebay for a few hundred bucks that you were gonna slap on your high mileage jetta. I don't even know if you remember this, but I'm not making it up. At some point you changed your mind and went with the high dollar stuff and left me wondering just what the hell would have happened. Now I know. It's all your fault and I blame you! :thumbup:


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Yep.. I remember that. My wife had a padlock on my loot back then for sure. 

I think its pretty awesome that you guys are making this stuff work:thumbup: 

Youll never hear any flamage from my direction. My only critisism is that too many guys are blaming their tunes for drivability problems, and we need some moarr dyno results fellas


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^LOL


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

I said it maybe eleventy pages ago. I ran an ebay k03 high flow manifold. It cracked. I ran an ebay ATP clone on my 3071R. It warped every 10k and leaked exhaust. The iron also started to pit, and come apart. I am guessing due to casting impurities and the constant 2000+ degrees then ambient cool offs. I chucked that thing into a metal recycling dumpster and had spent 175$ + mega time down the drain. 

The stuff is trash. I have a total of 2000$ into the 3076 pagparts bottom mount kit on my Jetta I just installed. I have a big name tune on my ECU as well. Had I bought it new with a t3/t4 I would be 2500$ in and not have spent hours cleaning flange surfaces and so forth. I also have to redo my coolant return line, the hose to female fitting is leaking at the hose entrance point. Even quality stuff goes bad after a while.

There really is no point, unless you like pain, suffering and spending a year on top of your intake manifold removing these components when they take a dump.

Even the pagparts stuff as good as it is requires surfacing occasionally and cleaning after a few years. These components are asked to take temperature extremes on and off that are mindbogling. 

The drivability problems are not tune related if you have a good flash. It is hardware. Some of the mafless tunes are picky about idle vacuum with no maf(looking at you eurodyne mafless), be it a few inchse above or below 19, and dump you into a higher engine load than you should have, but that aside there should be almost no drivability issues.


This pagparts used kit with used dirty vband mating surfaces I just cleaned up with 400 grit and used wirebrushes + sandpaper and a straight edge to make sure it was all flat. It idled perfect on the stock tune. It idles perfect on a 630cc tune right now no maf. A few wet misses during the initial 5 minutes of run time after first start, and no issues. 

You can get away with ebay intercooler cores, and a few things, but certain things can not be skimped on period or they will always come back to haunt you.


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## imalleuro'd (Nov 8, 2010)

how the hell are you guys tightening these damn manifolds down?


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Well, ripped the turbo off because it was smoking like a bitch..... and I could not believe the amount of shaft play this thing had. Talked to Arnold a few days later and he said he would take a look to see if it could be rebuilt. He called today letting me know that it is COMPLETELY fxcked. Now, I'm really not sure what to do considering cash is tight. What other turbos would fit my setup? (IE mani, wastegate). At this point its either find a used turbo or go with an ebay one again until I can save some cash. This is the time we all regret buying these parts haha:facepalm:


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Holset hx35


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Guessing ill need a new downpipe with that?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

get a real garrett 50 trim. or look at some precision turbos


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

I've got an HX35 laying in the shop, it needs rebuilding, but it's huge.... RAM3500FTW


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

DMVDUB said:


> I've got an HX35 laying in the shop, it needs rebuilding, but it's huge.... RAM3500FTW


 Arnold said he might be able to use the turbine housing. If thats the case and hes able to obtain the parts, she will be back up and running for ~$550-600. At this point, its the only option I have without dropping a bit of cash for a new setup. We will see once Arnold gets back to me.


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

How's ur guyses turbo running? My tune is completely whacked out the Eurodyne base file for 630s, I was previously running my modified stg 2 base file on the stock turbo an tuned it for e85 ran like a champ. 

But when I tried the 630 file idle runs like **** even with same fueling settings as my other tune. But when I use my old tune idle is perfect even with this setup.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ isn't that a surprise. i still cant get my car to idle properly, but it is a lot better than it was now that i have my exhaust leaks under control


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

It's a surprise a little bit cuz it idles perfect on my other tune


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

Runs perfect on my mafless setup


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Well I spoke with Arnold again yesterday from PagParts and as I said before, the ebay turbo is completely destroyed. The list that Arnold left on my voicemail that was wrong with this thing.... never again. 

Right now Arnold is in the process of using my old turbine housing (only thing salvageable), in a Precision housing and cartridge. Bill should be around 700ish, depending on if Arnold needs to do some machine work or not. 

For anyone looking to get an upgrade done, I highly recommend Pagparts so far. Obviously I haven't received the turbo yet, but I'm confident that everything will bolt up nice. He's managed to stay pretty much in my budget, and take care of my needs for this specific build. :thumbup:'s up and a few :beer:'s to Arnold for saving my ass:laugh:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Zneith said:


> Well I spoke with Arnold again yesterday from PagParts and as I said before, the ebay turbo is completely destroyed. The list that Arnold left on my voicemail that was wrong with this thing.... never again.
> 
> Right now Arnold is in the process of using my old turbine housing (only thing salvageable), in a Precision housing and cartridge. Bill should be around 700ish, depending on if Arnold needs to do some machine work or not.
> 
> For anyone looking to get an upgrade done, I highly recommend Pagparts so far. Obviously I haven't received the turbo yet, but I'm confident that everything will bolt up nice. He's managed to stay pretty much in my budget, and take care of my needs for this specific build. :thumbup:'s up and a few :beer:'s to Arnold for saving my ass:laugh:


 thats great news bro:thumbup: Arnold def is the man. i might have to just take a road trip up to NY and let him install my stroker kit and lsd when the time comes


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Big_Tom said:


> thats great news bro:thumbup: Arnold def is the man. i might have to just take a road trip up to NY and let him install my stroker kit and lsd when the time comes


 Let me know when your going haha. I owe him some :beer:'s


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Zneith said:


> Let me know when your going haha. I owe him some :beer:'s


 Dublin Donuts coffee is quite popular at PAG


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Dublin Donuts coffee is quite popular at PAG


 Sounds like my shop and his shop have something in common


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

And we see that it was a waste of time, and you should have gone with good stuff to begin with. 

Now you are out more money and time. 


Told you so....... Eleventy pages and maybe a year ago now?


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

gdoggmoney said:


> And we see that it was a waste of time, and you should have gone with good stuff to begin with.
> 
> Now you are out more money and time.
> 
> ...


 I wasnt one of the guys arguing with you. I never said this is going to compare to name brand, and I certainly didn't expect it. I never ONCE argued with you about these kits. At the time I was 18, living on my own with a baby and the girlfriend.... money was an issue and I had nothing to lose. You can argue all the want that they are garbage but several other members had them last a decent amount of miles. Going back, would I have done this? Never again. 

Like I said before, the turbo was COMPLETELY fxcked, but it was worth a shot. Everything else seems to be holding up. From the get go, I knew my downpipe would break because of the welds, but once again, its ebay, dont expect quality. In the long run, I'm still saving money with a rebuilt precision from Arnold.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Zneith said:


> I wasnt one of the guys arguing with you. I never said this is going to compare to name brand, and I certainly didn't expect it. I never ONCE argued with you about these kits. At the time I was 18, living on my own with a baby and the girlfriend.... money was an issue and I had nothing to lose. You can argue all the want that they are garbage but several other members had them last a decent amount of miles. Going back, would I have done this? Never again.
> 
> Like I said before, the turbo was COMPLETELY fxcked, but it was worth a shot. Everything else seems to be holding up. From the get go, I knew my downpipe would break because of the welds, but once again, its ebay, dont expect quality. In the long run, I'm still saving money with a rebuilt precision from Arnold.


 Until your manifold creeps, and you get leaks there. Or your turbine housing creeps because it is cast from sewer lids we sent to China/India. Then you will be hoping Arnold still has an ATP clone manifold he cast laying around. Then the wastegate flanges..... etc. etc. 


I'd like to not change my turbo hardware at oil change intervals.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

gdoggmoney said:


> Until your manifold creeps, and you get leaks there. Or your turbine housing creeps because it is cast from sewer lids we sent to China/India. Then you will be hoping Arnold still has an ATP clone manifold he cast laying around. Then the wastegate flanges..... etc. etc.
> 
> 
> I'd like to not change my turbo hardware at oil change intervals.


 :facepalm:


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Zneith said:


> :facepalm:


 Truth gets facepalm now? opcorn:


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## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

gdoggmoney said:


> Truth gets facepalm now? opcorn:


 I don't think so... I just think facepalm is a better reply to a "blind man". 
Guess what... Name brands also creep, and leak, and die.  Shocker, right? 

You did good buying name brand. Now, hold it:laugh:


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

gdoggmoney said:


> Until your manifold creeps, and you get leaks there. Or your turbine housing creeps because it is cast from sewer lids we sent to China/India. Then you will be hoping Arnold still has an ATP clone manifold he cast laying around. Then the wastegate flanges..... etc. etc.
> 
> 
> I'd like to not change my turbo hardware at oil change intervals.


 But alas.. You bought the same parts . Guys warned you too. Chill out man


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> But alas.. You bought the same parts . Guys warned you too. Chill out man


 That is just my point. I wasted untold sums of cash and time. I found causative logic connecting failures that simply can not be fixed. You would think people might listen, but they do not. 

Then they complain about money being tight, /etc but they spend it twice? 


Learning from the mistakes of others is one of the best things you can do, and when people here share their blowups, like aaron who the moderators hate with a passion, they give the BEST knowledge that can be given. 

They are then consequently dumped on.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

gdoggmoney said:


> That is just my point. I wasted untold sums of cash and time. I found causative logic connecting failures that simply can not be fixed. You would think people might listen, but they do not.
> 
> Then they complain about money being tight, /etc but they spend it twice?
> 
> ...


 Well if this was YOUR money you can spend it how you wish, as you did. Your opinion on what is "quality" is your opinion, not everyone elses outlook. Giving us advice or sharing your experience with you "wasting your money" is fine, but criticizing us for something you did yourself, pretty hypocritical. I'm sure you didn't have the exact same setup that we are running. Did we have failures? EVERYONE does, every business is not 100%. Obviously with the price drops, things will be more prone to failure but thats a chance that the CUSTOMER is making. I'm all for voicing your opinion, but being a d!ck really isn't necessary:thumbdown:


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Zneith said:


> Well if this was YOUR money you can spend it how you wish, as you did. Your opinion on what is "quality" is your opinion, not everyone elses outlook. Giving us advice or sharing your experience with you "wasting your money" is fine, but criticizing us for something you did yourself, pretty hypocritical. I'm sure you didn't have the exact same setup that we are running. Did we have failures? EVERYONE does, every business is not 100%. Obviously with the price drops, things will be more prone to failure but thats a chance that the CUSTOMER is making. I'm all for voicing your opinion, but being a d!ck really isn't necessary:thumbdown:


 


I'm all for negative reinforcement. It tends to work better. :thumbup: 

Oh, and I went into it with enough sense to try to cheap out on a manifold, not all in for junk. I don't hide anything and my post history is easily available.


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

I'm just happy to see guys get their hands dirty and make some power. This is really what its all about IMO. 

I entertained the thought of running an eBay Turbo setup on my Jetta a few yrs ago and decided against it. I did however run a real Atp setup for a minute on that car with proper fueling, etc. It ran great for a few days and then I started to have issues with the manifold leaking, etc. That atp Mani was such a pita to remove, and install. I swear it warped after 2 days of pounding on it. I had that kit on for all of 4 days and pulled the setup, and got rid of the car. 

That said, my buddy pretty much gave me the kit with an old t3 super 60.. maybe it was the age of the Mani? I dunno.. it had sat in his garage for yrs.. 

LOL! The biggest lesson I learned is that I need quattro again!

The Atp kit sucked though.. I previously ran a PES Mani, setup on my old a4 and it was bulletproof.. 

This time around it will be a pag setup when I get the funds to start doing my coupeq....


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

Sorry to hear it took a dump on you, Zneith. I am curious, did you use an oil restrictor? I am a big believer in running these journal bearing turbos without a restrictor. If you did not use a restrictor, and it still self-destructed, I'm at a loss. 

Gdoggmoney, I swear to hell you are one major OCD case, talking about manifolds and turbine housings needing constant milling to combat phantom warping. I think you could smell an exhaust leak from 500 yards. My crap ebay fake ATP manifold now has about 25,000 miles, 23psi, daily beat on it, etc. etc., with no leaks, nothing. Damn thing idles perfectly even with the "crappy mafless 630cc tune" others have complained about. 

Damn, Gdoggmoney, if you have granite counter tops in your kitchen (you seem like a classy guy, so I bet you do) I suspect you're in there every other week resurfacing them with a big-ass belt sander from Home Depot making sure they are perfectly smooth after so much as cutting a peanutbutter sammich on them. :thumbup: I'm just giving you a hard time, keep giving us sheeite, esp. that damn DMVDUB on this board.


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## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

TimC said:


> Sorry to hear it took a dump on you, Zneith. I am curious, did you use an oil restrictor? I am a big believer in running these journal bearing turbos without a restrictor. If you did not use a restrictor, and it still self-destructed, I'm at a loss.
> 
> Gdoggmoney, I swear to hell you are one major OCD case, talking about manifolds and turbine housings needing constant milling to combat phantom warping. I think you could smell an exhaust leak from 500 yards. My crap ebay fake ATP manifold now has about 25,000 miles, 23psi, daily beat on it, etc. etc., with no leaks, nothing. Damn thing idles perfectly even with the "crappy mafless 630cc tune" others have complained about.
> 
> *Damn, Gdoggmoney, if you have granite counter tops in your kitchen (you seem like a classy guy, so I bet you do) I suspect you're in there every other week resurfacing them with a big-ass belt sander from Home Depot making sure they are perfectly smooth after so much as cutting a peanutbutter sammich on them. :thumbup: I'm just giving you a hard time, keep giving us sheeite, esp. that damn DMVDUB on this board*.


 :laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh: 
I think the first thing to do is get some milling on the manifold before getting it in. That is probably something most guys do not do, therefore causing issues almost instantly. 
Well, I'm getting some parts to do my own kit. Cheap ATP clone, Garrett t3t4 50trim, probalby a cheapo wastegate, and custom downpipe. So, I hope everything holds up and rip it


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Ohhhh shiiiiiiiiit!!!!!!!!!!!

\\BOOM// goes the dynamite :laugh:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

TimC said:


> Sorry to hear it took a dump on you, Zneith. I am curious, did you use an oil restrictor? I am a big believer in running these journal bearing turbos without a restrictor. If you did not use a restrictor, and it still self-destructed, I'm at a loss.
> 
> Gdoggmoney, I swear to hell you are one major OCD case, talking about manifolds and turbine housings needing constant milling to combat phantom warping. I think you could smell an exhaust leak from 500 yards. My crap ebay fake ATP manifold now has about 25,000 miles, 23psi, daily beat on it, etc. etc., with no leaks, nothing. Damn thing idles perfectly even with the "crappy mafless 630cc tune" others have complained about.
> 
> Damn, Gdoggmoney, if you have granite counter tops in your kitchen (you seem like a classy guy, so I bet you do) I suspect you're in there every other week resurfacing them with a big-ass belt sander from Home Depot making sure they are perfectly smooth after so much as cutting a peanutbutter sammich on them. :thumbup: I'm just giving you a hard time, keep giving us sheeite, esp. that damn DMVDUB on this board.


 :thumbup:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

TimC said:


> Sorry to hear it took a dump on you, Zneith. I am curious, did you use an oil restrictor? I am a big believer in running these journal bearing turbos without a restrictor. If you did not use a restrictor, and it still self-destructed, I'm at a loss.
> 
> Gdoggmoney, I swear to hell you are one major OCD case, talking about manifolds and turbine housings needing constant milling to combat phantom warping. I think you could smell an exhaust leak from 500 yards. My crap ebay fake ATP manifold now has about 25,000 miles, 23psi, daily beat on it, etc. etc., with no leaks, nothing. Damn thing idles perfectly even with the "crappy mafless 630cc tune" others have complained about.
> 
> Damn, Gdoggmoney, if you have granite counter tops in your kitchen (you seem like a classy guy, so I bet you do) I suspect you're in there every other week resurfacing them with a big-ass belt sander from Home Depot making sure they are perfectly smooth after so much as cutting a peanutbutter sammich on them. :thumbup: I'm just giving you a hard time, keep giving us sheeite, esp. that damn DMVDUB on this board.


 As bad as it sounds, I'm not sure if it had a restrictor. This was the first build I did and I had a few hands helping. I can tell you the oil supply was from atp, and the adapters were from arnold. 

The turbo seemed to be acting fine for a little while, then during the winter I heard the scraping sound that I described to arnold. He told me that obviously got progressively worse, causing the failure(s) I had.


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## BSD (Jul 8, 2008)

TimC said:


> Damn, Gdoggmoney, if you have granite counter tops in your kitchen (you seem like a classy guy, so I bet you do) I suspect you're in there every other week resurfacing them with a big-ass belt sander from Home Depot making sure they are perfectly smooth after so much as cutting a peanutbutter sammich on them. :thumbup: I'm just giving you a hard time, keep giving us sheeite, esp. that damn DMVDUB on this board.


 LOL :laugh:


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

That Damn DMVDUB:wave:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

DMVDUB said:


> That Damn DMVDUB:wave:


 Long time no see:wave::beer:


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Sucks to hear your turbo went Zneith, But you'll be happy with your new unit.


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## 20VCanuck (Mar 11, 2011)

im looking to get a atp clone ebay manifold from emusa, but I cannot for the life of me find one with a wastegate flange!, how are you guys running these? or am I blind? 

its for a t3/t4.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

DMVDUB said:


> Sucks to hear your turbo went Zneith, But you'll be happy with your new unit.


 I don't have much doubt about the turbo when it comes back. Arnold his highly recommended from several people. Just hope everything mates back up correctly and Im not in this position in a few weeks/months


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

20VCanuck said:


> im looking to get a atp clone ebay manifold from emusa, but I cannot for the life of me find one with a wastegate flange!, how are you guys running these? or am I blind?
> 
> its for a t3/t4.


 From what I can see anymore, they dont sell the wastegates separate or the mani's separate.


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## first9t! (Jul 13, 2009)

20VCanuck said:


> im looking to get a atp clone ebay manifold from emusa, but I cannot for the life of me find one with a wastegate flange!, how are you guys running these? or am I blind?
> 
> its for a t3/t4.


 You in bc or Washington? 

On a side note, picked up a new manifold yesterday. Anyone use an inc t3 manifold? Welds look good, will post a pic when I get home from work


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Zneith said:


> I don't have much doubt about the turbo when it comes back. Arnold his highly recommended from several people. Just hope everything mates back up correctly and Im not in this position in a few weeks/months


 you should be good now bro, i wouldn't worry. :thumbup:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

20VCanuck said:


> im looking to get a atp clone ebay manifold from emusa, but I cannot for the life of me find one with a wastegate flange!, how are you guys running these? or am I blind?
> 
> its for a t3/t4.


 get 1 from another seller, they are all over the place :thumbup:


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## 20VCanuck (Mar 11, 2011)

okay, didn't know if emusa was a "better" brand than others. I guess an ebay manifold is an ebay manifold. 

To the above poster, Im in bc. about 20 minutes from the sumas washington border.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

get 1 from cxracing.com


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## 20VCanuck (Mar 11, 2011)

oh perfect! not sure if cheaping out on this manifold and wastegate is such a great idea, but ill keep you guys updated! 

going with a real garrett turbo though.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

its not a good idea, but if ur gonna do it, do it right lol dont order something cheap that doesnt at least look like it will work


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

20VCanuck said:


> oh perfect! not sure if cheaping out on this manifold and wastegate is such a great idea, but ill keep you guys updated!
> 
> going with a real garrett turbo though.


 My mani and wastegate seem to be holding up. We will see.....


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## first9t! (Jul 13, 2009)

Anyone use one of these?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

first9t! said:


> Anyone use one of these?


 Not that I know of but test it out and lmk. :thumbup:


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## 20VCanuck (Mar 11, 2011)

i would big time suggest against getting an ebay tubular mani. If any go with a cast one, I have heard nothing but bad things about them breaking and sheering off.


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## first9t! (Jul 13, 2009)

20VCanuck said:


> i would big time suggest against getting an ebay tubular mani. If any go with a cast one, I have heard nothing but bad things about them breaking and sheering off.


 I went through all the welds, everything looks fine, so I am going to try it out.. I have used a few of OBX brand exhaust components, never have had a problem with them. I got the manifold in tonight, gotta run up to the store tomorrow to get some nuts and bolts for a few things and I will be set. This manifold puts the turbo at a weird angle though, and I cant clock the turbo because thanks to my engine spacers, the turbo hits the firewall


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

Of course the obx welds didnt have a 30lb weight hanging on the end of it. It's also the thin metal is why they break


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

cincyTT said:


> Of course the obx welds didnt have a 30lb weight hanging on the end of it. It's also the thin metal is why they break


 30lb weight, going from ambient to 2000 degrees, moving back and forth with a downpipe attached, going over giant potholes that will shock said unit going from ambient to 2000 degrees.......... 


Sounds like a good plan to me. What could go wrong?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

20VCanuck said:


> i would big time suggest against getting an ebay tubular mani. If any go with a cast one, I have heard nothing but bad things about them breaking and sheering off.


 :thumbup: this


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Those mani's have EXTREMELY thin metal. I would definitely go with a cast one if you choose to go the cheap route:thumbup: All of that heat, shifting, and temp changes are going to destroy those welds. Ask the downpipe thats on my car, cracked straight in half on the hard turn down. When I went to get this fixed, I had all the welds rewelded.... hopefully I dont have to deal with this again.:screwy:


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## Nevaeh_Speed (Jul 9, 2004)

anybody try one of these yet


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

Its going to have the same results but probably faster. Plus you have to buy a obx or bigger Tial to for the wastegate. Someone did have it for a short period and then swapped to a EJ or FFE manifold.


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## Nevaeh_Speed (Jul 9, 2004)

I just always see it all of ebay, I'm happy with my atp cast log.


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## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

first9t! said:


> Anyone use one of these?


 friends of mine are using one on their TT racecar.. 
needless to say it gets rewelded often when it cracks.. 

which it does regularly 

If this does'nt worry you.. fine


----------



## first9t! (Jul 13, 2009)

badger5 said:


> friends of mine are using one on their TT racecar..
> needless to say it gets rewelded often when it cracks..
> 
> which it does regularly
> ...


 Well ****, guess I'll be putting the atp one back on. $100 out the door. :banghead:


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

first9t! said:


> Well ****, guess I'll be putting the atp one back on. $100 out the door. :banghead:


 Ebay stuff......... all junk minus the decent godspeed cores.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> Ebay stuff......... all junk minus the decent godspeed cores.


 and cold air intakes :thumbup:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Big_Tom said:


> and cold air intakes :thumbup:


 Dont forget downpipes:beer:


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

You could try and weld some braces on to it... or sell it on Craigslist, god knows someone will buy it.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Zneith said:


> Dont forget downpipes:beer:


 yes, i did lol :thumbup::beer:


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## cablekid (Apr 26, 2011)

So the car ran 20k miles with the ebay turbo? and made 300hp? 

How much was the cost of the whole install including the tune?

Where did you get the tune from? 

:wave:


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## DanA4 (Feb 28, 2011)

Nevaeh_Speed said:


> anybody try one of these yet


haha link?


edit: nevermind, I found it with a quick eBay search. might be worth checking out for only $350 hahahahaha.


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

cablekid said:


> So the car ran 20k miles with the ebay turbo? and made 300hp?
> 
> How much was the cost of the whole install including the tune?
> 
> ...


Um...yes, roughly 20k miles, it made 306whp on crap Cali 91 octane (see dyno), about $1,473,822, and Eurodyne 630cc mafless...


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## rosasjonathan (Jul 3, 2011)

I have used both style manifolds. The OBX ramhorn style manifold is actually pretty good quality. Never had it break when I used it, used it for about 30k miles. The only thing I didnt like is it rusted a little bit. But as far as the welds they are strong, and its not thin metal like the other ebay manifold.

I too had one of those ebay manifolds that you bought for $100 a LONGG time ago, I believe back in 08. I noticed a few differences in the manifold since then, but its still the same design, now they actually incorporate two little braces to help support the wastegate flange. But dude, just like you were told, these things are notorious for cracking. They are extremely thin metal, and they ALWAYS crack around the wastegate flange area. The weight of the wastegate and turbo, specially over a period of usage and heat, will make it inevitable to crack. If you look on google and find peoples experiences with this style ebay manifold, its not too pretty, but back then they were saying the manifold would work better if you welded braces around certain parts. I myself, used this manifold and it cracked specifically around the wastegate flange area, after only about 1000 miles, I got it fixed and it cracked again after another 3000 miles. Extremely unreliable manifold, I would definetely go atp style all the way. you can never go wrong with those atp style cast iron manifolds, they wont break, they will just look ugly.


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## first9t! (Jul 13, 2009)

Zneith said:


> Dont forget downpipes:beer:


The guy that sells the down pipes wont call me back, talked to.him on eBay, he gave me his number and I have called several times leaving messages with his wife. Anyone know of someone selling theirs?


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## imalleuro'd (Nov 8, 2010)

rosasjonathan said:


> you can never go wrong with those atp style cast iron manifolds, they wont break, they will just look ugly.


And they are a massive PITA to install and remove. Save yourself the time and hassle, before your first go around at installing this manifold pick up a set of 10mm hex head jet nut and locking washers. Here are the links for them.


m8x1.25 w/10mm head - http://www.coastfab.com/php/proddetail.php?prod=0947&cat=69

go to this site http://www.mcmaster.com/# and paste this number into the search bar - 91812A230 - This will bring up the m8 locking washers


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## oneops (May 29, 2010)

TimC said:


> Um...yes, roughly 20k miles, it made 306whp on crap Cali 91 octane (see dyno), about $1,473,822, and Eurodyne 630cc mafless...


Wow for that price you could have purchased a bugatti

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk


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## imalleuro'd (Nov 8, 2010)

im thinking it was more along the lines of the sub $1500 range. Hell I don't think I spent even that much including software and injectors. I think the only high dollar items I bought were a Eurojet Street FMIC and a 42DD catback. Everything else was either used or ebay deals.

ATP clone manifold - 125
ATP clone downpipe - 125
oil feed and drain lines - 50
oil feed and drain flanges - 40
3'' intake pipe - 28
ebay T3T4 turbo - 115
gaskets - 40
5 bolt to vband adapter - 50
revo stage 3 (not the greatest but it works for now) - 200
Bosch 550s - 175
Eurojet Street - 700
42DD Catback - 465
Total -------- 2113

All in all im very happy with the way the car turned out. Sure it needs more work but as of right now I have it up and running reliably. It has a few exhaust leaks that need to be addressed, but thats expected with the ebay stuff. That and I made all of this happen by ordering individual parts from the US getting sent to Germany (still stationed here) through the USPS that takes forever to ship ****. Sure I'd love a built block, AEB head, WMI, large port intake manifold and a 3071r all running on a Uni 630 tune thats mafless with all deletes... but that will come when I get to my next base in the next few months.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Just wanted to update for everyone. I got my turbo back from Arnold. It was pretty much brand new out of the box (minus the turbine housing). He machined out the turbine housing a bit, looks good. Cartridge and housing is a Precision 50 trim. Assembled it tonight but since my car has been sitting so long, batt needs to be replaced. Hoping to start er' up tomorrow. 

Pic of turbo from Arnold:



New Hood :thumbup: It might not be everyone's cup of tea, but I definitely think it gives the dub a unique look


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ Nice turbo brah! :thumbup:


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## 02337 (May 12, 2009)

Adding a little bit as im putting my block back together. As it stands now ill start the list
T3/t5 50 trim .63 ar.
Cast log manifold
Wastegate
Water to air intercooler.
All purchased from godspeed/ebay.

Added in were drop in IE 19mm rods
United motorsport with 3" maf housing
550cc injectors with a wahlbro in line pump
Clutchnet organic sprung hub with red pressure plate
Eurospec 20lb single mass flywheel
3" custom welded turbo back with a silicone intakes free flow cat.

Theres other random odds and ends. 
Im hoping to have the car back together as soon as the correct clutch arrives. 
Also having the manifold milled as its having a little issue fitting on the head.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Big_Tom said:


> ^^^ Nice turbo brah! :thumbup:


Chyea:laugh: Excited to see if anything will be different between this turbo and the old one. Hopefully this one stays together


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Did you ask him to straightedge and flatten that turbine housing all over?


Did you check it before sending? That cheap iron creeps.


Nice hood, looks like it will really help with keeping the light inside your headlamps.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

gdoggmoney said:


> Did you ask him to straightedge and flatten that turbine housing all over?
> 
> 
> Did you check it before sending? That cheap iron creeps.
> ...


Cool story bro:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: Now stop trolling and do something productive with your new spare time:beer:


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Trolling? Did you straightedge any of your ebay exhaust iron? I keep hearing exhaust leaks in this thread but nobody seems to be doing what is required to fix them, and you know get the car that is basically almost 100% O2 feedback driven running right. 

I guess that is trolling.


----------



## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

gdoggmoney said:


> Trolling? Did you straightedge any of your ebay exhaust iron? I keep hearing exhaust leaks in this thread but nobody seems to be doing what is required to fix them, and you know get the car that is basically almost 100% O2 feedback driven running right.
> 
> I guess that is trolling.


Your sarcastic "witty" comments are completely unnecessary. I understand if you want to give*constructive* criticism but if your going to bash EVERYTHING, dont expect a response. I'm not sure why your so persistent on being a douche, I never bad mouthed anything you did or your ideas. Oh well, there are people like you everywhere, what a shame:thumbdown:


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Its the tune Gdogg. Didn't u get the memo?


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Its the tune Gdogg. Didn't u get the memo?


Must be the tune. For sure it can't be any of the ebay exhaust hardware causing a venturi effect with atmospheric air being pulled by the o2 sensor at times. 

I missed that memo.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> Must be the tune. For sure it can't be any of the ebay exhaust hardware causing a venturi effect with atmospheric air being pulled by the o2 sensor at times.
> 
> I missed that memo.


stop being a d*ck. the tune's eurodyne puts out are off, i am having the same problems and i didnt buy ebay hardware. we've been thru the whole exhaust leak thing, we have that under control, you just cant let it go


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Big_Tom said:


> stop being a d*ck. the tune's eurodyne puts out are off, i am having the same problems and i didnt buy ebay hardware. we've been thru the whole exhaust leak thing, we have that under control, you just can let it go


:thumbup:


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

^^^^hesmad


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> ^^^^hesmad


:screwy: Not really, just tired of people flaming. It's not your car, your money, or your headache as you both are putting it. You don't like the hardware we are using, then YOU dont use it. Hop off my 'd' bro


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Calm down homie.. 

Welcome to the jungle baby! Id=27 is the biggest bitchfest on the kotex.


----------



## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Calm down homie..
> 
> Welcome to the jungle baby! Id=27 is the biggest bitchfest on the kotex.


Amen to that. Didnt mean to get snippy:wave:


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

I'll be waiting and expecting the same results when the tune changes. Both literally and figuratively.

:thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I'd like to see someone with a rock solid idle and great tune swap with one of us having the issue. 

That should put an end to some bickering.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Free offer. Come to my place, swap my UNI maf based 630cc ecu in your car and see if the problems go away.


Your results may vary based on blow off valves and or lack of MAF. But it runs just as good with the MAF unplugged it seems.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

We have a stock 630cc mafless eurodyne ECU here too for back to backs........


Awfully peaceful here, I think I hear something.........


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

where are you located? 

I would like to see one of the files with rough idle swapped into one that is good also.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

send me an ecu for testing


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## 02337 (May 12, 2009)

Ive been following this for a while. As I said ill be running a 550cc UM 3" MAF file. The ecu is sitting on my desk as my block sits assembled ready for the right clitch from clutchnet. Then it will be in the car. Ill gladly post some VAG logs as well as some video footage of the car while its in break in period 

Not trying to flame or bash but the manifold doesnt quite line up to my studs on my heaf. This will be fixed at a machine shop who will mill it as necessary for straightness.

Personally after speaking to [email protected] Motorsport. $650 for the tune and maf housing I feel 10x more confident running a MAF as opposed to running off of MAP and 02 sensors.

Just my $.02 I should have the car running within a week or so 

And to add, after reading all this. When I saw the "gaskets" for the wastegate. I immediately bought metal gaskets:snowcool:


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

You just doomed yourself homie cause Mafs have ears and they're quite adept at being gremlins.


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

Well, I came back from the dyno after installing my "real" turbonetics 50 trim and am dissappointed to report that I pulled about the same horsepower (roughly 310whp, which still seems low). It looks like it puts out no more power than the Ebay "44 trim". (see my pics and measurements earlier in the thread). This tells me that the turbo is not the limiting factor, and must rather be my exhaust (at 2.5") or my intercooler piping (at 2") or the crap timing my car runs running on Cali 91 octane (maybe 12 degrees at 6500rpm, which I know is damn low) or that my engine is original at 186,000 miles, or hell only knows how long the list could go on. 

So anyway, I'm posting because I'm running the damn Ebay turbo again, as it spools much better than the real 50 trim (full boost by 4200rpm vs. 4800rpm). Again, this is mainly due to the different turbine design. :thumbup:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

well i doubt the gas is your problem. 91 oct is fine for the power levels we are at. you really need to get a 3" exhaust for the BT. i bet that gives you at least 20whp :thumbup: also i think ur nuts to swap back to the ebay turbo  is the real 50 really that bad? i :heart: mine also ive seen 2" hotside piping used in sub 400 whp applications on many different platforms. 2.25 couldn't hurt tho


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## TimC (Jan 18, 2008)

Yeah, I could find no obvious issues causing the slow spool but it did seem a bit slow to build boost. As you know, my car runs pig rich as boost builds, which certainly does not help. It felt like it had a stronger top end, but the dyno showed otherwise, so I figured why give up torque down low if I don't make up for it with a stronger top end (at least with my current exhaust), so back to the Ebay snail I went. 

I will take your advice to heart, will not worry about the intercooler piping and will have to try that Ebay Tsudo 3" exhaust next! Full 3" exhaust for $149.99, what could go wrong?


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## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

Well, just that is wrong... Why pay 149.99 when you can pay 499.99 or more? :laugh:
I bet that is going to take away 20whp from your current total. :laugh:

But that is strange though... A real 50trim doing less than an ebay 50trim... (overall)


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

What kind of shaft speeds or pressures are you getting out of that ebay turbo? You should see what it can do at 22psi if it is that good.

I mean I bet it makes more HP than a 3076. I bet it will be just fine there too.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> What kind of shaft speeds or pressures are you getting out of that ebay turbo? You should see what it can do at 22psi if it is that good.
> 
> I mean I bet it makes more HP than a 3076. I bet it will be just fine there too.


I have actually been running mine @20; closer to 22 in 5 and 6. 

The car had been off the road for awhile but it is still running strong(minus the ****ty idle)

I had a few scares when the MBC line ruptured, I took the turbo blanket off(ebay) and didn't reinstall it yet. I will have to because that thing really kept the heat in. ...
Anyway when the line ruptured I was pegging the gauge @30 :facepalm: I new something didn't feel right and quickly fixed it. 
The turbo still runs great. 

Yes fitment of many things was a pita, but the knowledge I learned doing all of this was worth it. 
Especially for the money spent. 
The only thing I would stay away from is the cheap cheap IC core. It dents up from gnats hitting it:laugh:

When I build the bottom end I will be going with a force fed kit and not having any headaches.... :thumbup:

I would be leery of running any other ebay turbo... This one seems to be tried and true across multiple platforms. 

I would probably never run and ebay 3076 or anything larger then a 50trim for that matter.


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

hootyburra said:


> I have actually been running mine @20; closer to 22 in 5 and 6.
> 
> The car had been off the road for awhile but it is still running strong(minus the ****ty idle)
> 
> ...


You are lucky. For as many sucess stories with ebay turbos there are equally as many if not more with pictures of destroyed motors from sucking in compressor shards.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> I have actually been running mine @20; closer to 22 in 5 and 6.
> 
> The car had been off the road for awhile but it is still running strong(minus the ****ty idle)
> 
> ...


i hit 30 psi once somehow semi recently :laugh::thumbup: i was afraid for my block, but it pulled H A F


----------



## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

gdoggmoney said:


> You are lucky. For as many sucess stories with ebay turbos there are equally as many if not more with pictures of destroyed motors from sucking in compressor shards.


can say from my experience killed four turbo ebay (now I bought the 5th ebay turbo, which can cost me over $ 1,000, money that could buy a 2871 or 3071 ball bearing, but I wanted chinacharger, a project to be lowcost, I tried several brands, but EMUSA charger is the best spool / power) none of them sucking in compressor shards, angry I tried to improve we tried to do ebay turbo to resist, I mounted the central water-cooled and 360 degree thrust bearing , then resist overheating forge extended after this I think I found the combination of OK because I go about 3000-4000 km in 23psi is zero shaft play, no leaks, no oil burning.

excuse my writing mistakes


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## 02337 (May 12, 2009)

Motors in for mock up, manifold had to be modified very little on the top to stop it from hitting the head. The manifold was straight and everything checked out. Manifod is being held on with copper lock nuts and stock washers, everything looks good so far. Have to mount the awic intercooler and fuel pump finish the IC piping and start it. Ill have a video posted when it starts the first time. Just figured id share as everything was relatively good as far as fitment. It helps having a lift though!


----------



## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

I got emusa t3t4 been running it at 18-20 psi and it dynoed at 312whp 298wtq in 4th gear. Running e85


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^thats not too shabby :thumbup:


----------



## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

Thanks I used t series restricter from atpturbo and their oil lines. Haven't had a problem with seals or oil delivery yet.


----------



## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

02337 said:


> Motors in for mock up, manifold had to be modified very little on the top to stop it from hitting the head. The manifold was straight and everything checked out. Manifod is being held on with copper lock nuts and stock washers, everything looks good so far. Have to mount the awic intercooler and fuel pump finish the IC piping and start it. Ill have a video posted when it starts the first time. Just figured id share as everything was relatively good as far as fitment. It helps having a lift though!


make sure to retighten all the nuts after use my manifold backed out on a trip to another city and blew the gasket:[ had a leak had to replace the gasket, it was made out of steel.


----------



## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

I have a T25 flanged ATP Clone manifold FS if anyone needs. It's tapped for 3/8 studs on the turbo outlet.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

got a clone mani, turbo and intercooler if anyone is interested.. Will let go cheap :thumbup:


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## first9t! (Jul 13, 2009)

Anyone know what size/thread the bolts that hold the turbo to the manifold are? Lost one and cant pull one of the others out as I am driving the car and am not touching a 500 degree bolt. Any help would be wonderful. Using the arp wana be cast manifold.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

*My thoughts after 15000 miles*

I had no problems with the turbo. The shaft play is still like day 1 after 15,000 miles of daily driving and boost. 
There was alot of modification that had to be done in order to get things to fit right.
The wastegate requires an adapter to clock it so it doesn't hit the block, the downpipe had some major fitment issues. 
The ATP manifold is a major pita to install and requires custom made wrenches and lots of patience. 
I would not use the supplied oil lines, or hardware. 
I did not use the included BOV, used a DV to atmosphere instead. 
Fitting the inlet was a pita. This can be the case with various setups. 

I ran it at 20 psi daily and never had a problem besides blowing off couplers and having to re-tighten things, until I purchased nordlocks :thumbup:

The oil feed flange cracked on me but this may have been my fault from overtightening. 

If you are good with fabrication I would recommend it. 
If you want something that will bolt on without any hassles stay away.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

first9t! said:


> Anyone know what size/thread the bolts that hold the turbo to the manifold are? Lost one and cant pull one of the others out as I am driving the car and am not touching a 500 degree bolt. Any help would be wonderful. Using the arp wana be cast manifold.


Edit
They are m10x1.5 and I think 25mm in length
I think I posted it somewhere back in the thread, use nordlocks and they won't keep coming loose.


----------



## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

After pulling my downpipe off a while back, had a cracked weld in it... The shaft play from in and out increased, didntt have any up or down play though... still held 20psi boost id say only 6k miles since i installed the kit. No problems with couplers blowing off, mani was pita, and intake, but overall fabbed wastegate adapter, intake piping, and all new nuts bolts, and steel gaskets.... For downpipe used 2 Flanges as suggested in the previous pages and fit right in.

Had a buddy with a garrett t3t4 so swapped em out and been running it since...


----------



## enaroy (Nov 4, 2011)

*TimC Any update*



Tim: said:


> Yeah, I could find no obvious issues causing the slow spool but it did seem a bit slow to build boost. As you know, my car runs pig rich as boost builds, which certainly does not help. It felt like it had a stronger top end, but the dyno showed otherwise, so I figured why give up torque down low if I don't make up for it with a stronger top end (at least with my current exhaust), so back to the Ebay snail I went.
> 
> I will take your advice to heart, will not worry about the intercooler piping and will have to try that Ebay Tsudo 3" exhaust next! Full 3" exhaust for $149.99, what could go wrong?


TimC Any update :thumbup:


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## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

enaroy said:


> TimC Any update :thumbup:


For TimC experiment ended, left the VAG range....http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...separate-GIAC-X-ECU!)&p=73565665#post73565665


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

My kit is up for sale


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## Boostedauditt (Apr 28, 2011)

My kit is also up for sale + your stock stuff. Turbo has less than 5k on it. Has the legit name brand ATP oil feed and return. My kit doesn't have any "stacked" flanges it bolts right up to the turbo as well as the catback. Downpipe has been braced and modified to fit without breaking. It has a complete custom fabricated Fmic intercooler kit with cnc flanges for the map sensor and the hks ( replica ). A forge performance core was used with custom end tanks fabricated. Custom external wastegate pipin as well. The only thing I don't have for it is an intake. A n2mb wot box with the two step feature will also be included. PM me for price and any other info.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

everybody is leaving the ebay turbo scene


----------



## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

Big_Tom said:


> everybody is leaving the ebay turbo scene


Yepp lol


----------



## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

Well, it's probably the next step. As in you start with something cheap, and if you like it, you go to the next level. And, if you already have an eBay kit, you will probably only have to buy the "real" turbo, and you are set


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Still don't get why all these Honda kids are running them with no issues though??:sly:

There's a TON of kids around my area running ebay kits, Godspeed kits, etc. on their Honda's even a two guys running GSP turbo's on an EVO and a WRX???

Why is it they fall apart so quick on our cars, but these guys can run low 12's high 11's on them and DD them? 

I know one guy that's running an Ebay kit on his 2001 SI and runs low 12's at the track and daily drives it. He's had the kit on for 2 years with no issues... The only thing I know that may be different is he dailies it at 10psi and tracks at 18psi. I wonder if that's why it lives longer?

I dunno... I still want one of Clay's kits


----------



## first9t! (Jul 13, 2009)

Boostedauditt said:


> My kit is also up for sale + your stock stuff. Turbo has less than 5k on it. Has the legit name brand ATP oil feed and return. My kit doesn't have any "stacked" flanges it bolts right up to the turbo as well as the catback. Downpipe has been braced and modified to fit without breaking. It has a complete custom fabricated Fmic intercooler kit with cnc flanges for the map sensor and the hks ( replica ). A forge performance core was used with custom end tanks fabricated. Custom external wastegate pipin as well. The only thing I don't have for it is an intake. A n2mb wot box with the two step feature will also be included. PM me for price and any other info.


Wana sell the 2 step separate? Lmk!!


----------



## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

DMVDUB said:


> Still don't get why all these Honda kids are running them with no issues though??:sly:
> 
> There's a TON of kids around my area running ebay kits, Godspeed kits, etc. on their Honda's even a two guys running GSP turbo's on an EVO and a WRX???
> 
> ...


Well, all the guys I know with eBay kits will run 1bar, 1.1bar. No more than that. I know Honda guys, Seat Leon Cupra (our 1.8T), and still running. Making 330+hp and all good. I guess that the issue is when people try to go over that pressure, making everything go boom 
Still, I got a real Garrett 50trim from killa, and got a ATP clone manifold, and some other cheap parts  At least the turbo will not give me issues, I guess


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

HidRo said:


> I got a real Garrett 50trim


:beer::thumbup:


----------



## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

I tried do ebay turbo to resist, I mounted the central water-cooled and 360 degree thrust bearing , then resist overheating forge extended after this I think I found the combination of OK because I go about one year and 6000 km in 22-24psi is zero shaft play, no leaks, no oil burning and running strong

picture about 1 year using )


----------



## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

Motor069 said:


> I tried do ebay turbo to resist, I mounted the central water-cooled and 360 degree thrust bearing , then resist overheating forge extended after this I think I found the combination of OK because I go about one year and 6000 km in 22-24psi is zero shaft play, no leaks, no oil burning and running strong
> 
> picture about 1 year using )


Mine wasn't watercooled but I noticed exsessive shaft play month after use @ 20psi. And started smoking around 10k miles after install. Yes I ran a T series restrictor from CTS turbo.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

seems like he was one of the lucky ones. ebay turbo quality is hit or miss, usually misses tho :laugh:


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

Big_Tom said:


> seems like he was one of the lucky ones. ebay turbo quality is hit or miss, usually misses tho :laugh:


Yea


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## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

codergfx said:


> Mine wasn't watercooled but I noticed exsessive shaft play month after use @ 20psi. And started smoking around 10k miles after install. Yes I ran a T series restrictor from CTS turbo.


 the AGU/AUQ have met the same problem myself, and I used a custom restrictor, 2.5 mm, the AEB A4 6mm diameter lines is no problem

now 3 cars (AEB, AGU, AUQ) runs ebaycharger and Passat 1.8T AWM undergoing, with trust bearing 360' is strong turbo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7nKqWpuUGM&feature=g-upl&context=G2769a02AUAAAAAAAAAA


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I had no failures with the kit. 
It still ran great when it was removed. 

I just need more. 

Search my 'build 'thread'

stroker, built head, tranny, raxles, ...


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

Motor069 said:


> the AGU/AUQ have met the same problem myself, and I used a custom restrictor, 2.5 mm, the AEB A4 6mm diameter lines is no problem
> 
> now 3 cars (AEB, AGU, AUQ) runs ebaycharger and Passat 1.8T AWM undergoing, with trust bearing 360' is strong turbo
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7nKqWpuUGM&feature=g-upl&context=G2769a02AUAAAAAAAAAA


Mine was .063 inches, 1.6mm journal 360 thrust bearing also,


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## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

hootyburra said:


> I had no failures with the kit.
> It still ran great when it was removed.
> 
> I just need more.
> ...


Yes ... I saw that you want to get higher ... I have watched))) luck, and I would do the same, but not have money


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Big_Tom said:


> everybody is leaving the ebay turbo scene


Surprise! 

I'm not sure why the pictures of the ebay manifolds pulling threads out of the stud bores, and losing chunks of material from near them have not been posted yet.


I saw one for sale in the forced induction forum a while ago, the Ebay manifolds can be stamped ATP too because they come from the same place. China/India, recycled sewer caps not meant to hit the temperatures we see.

My ebay ATP clone was deteroriating horribly in that Area (It was stamped ATP too) and it also decided with even torque and nordlocks that it wanted to warp, constantly at the turbine inlet. 

I just saw a tear down of a b series ebay turbo honda, a friend who is 16 just bought the motor and setup from another local. It made 348whp, the turbo has 2mm of in/out play and the wastegate was shaved to the point o fleaking in order to fit (ebay wastegate too) against the valve cover, head and etc.

He is bolting it on as is, and it will probably go for another 10k or so with him ragging on it.

Point is, you can make tons of power and run it for a good while, on garbage that is likely to fall apart at any moment, does not run right, and leaks boost from the botom chamber requiring more shaft speed to open the stupid gate -- etc.

The honda kids are having problems with ebay garbage -- most are either too stupid to tell that there is a problem, or they just ignore it and out of sight out of mind "I Have a 348whp ebay b16 yo!"


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

gdoggmoney said:


> Surprise!
> 
> I'm not sure why the pictures of the ebay manifolds pulling threads out of the stud bores, and losing chunks of material from near them have not been posted yet.
> 
> ...


Actually I've been on the eBay mani for a while now even with the new 50trim haven't cracked welds on exhaust anymore after getting new motor mounts, the mani still holdin up tho! Wastegate isn't leakin either. Guess depends on luck cuz my turbo did take a dump...

I did however notice a chunk of manifold when I took turbo off but it isn't leakin from there..


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> The honda kids are having problems with ebay garbage -- most are either too stupid to tell that there is a problem, or they just ignore it and out of sight out of mind "I Have a 348whp ebay b16 yo!"


there are so many ebay turbo hondas/toyotas around here it's silly. they are running rampant. most that i've seen are still slow :screwy: i hate when people assume i have an ebay turbo on my car. one of my friends friends was trying to look at my turbo, he said he saw the .60 stamped on my turbo and assumed it was ebay "because that what all the ebay turbos have stamped on them". Of course he is building a turbo B20 he says :screwy:


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

I have a dodge srt4 top mount obx kitted '50 trim' setup in the shop currently that had managed to melt the fuel feed line along with the oil feed line along with the insulation under the rain tray along with the coolant reservoir. Caused a fire which was quickly put out, thankfully. Manifold came with the seemingly patented turbo flange so warped that you cannot put the turbo on with studs installed. The oil feed line did not last 30 mins as whatever they decide to manufacture them out of is certainly not to be placed anywhere near an automobile. It never ceases to amaze me at times...


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> I have a dodge srt4 top mount obx kitted '50 trim' setup in the shop currently that had managed to melt the fuel feed line along with the oil feed line along with the insulation under the rain tray along with the coolant reservoir. Caused a fire which was quickly put out, thankfully. Manifold came with the seemingly patented turbo flange so warped that you cannot put the turbo on with studs installed. The oil feed line did not last 30 mins as whatever they decide to manufacture them out of is certainly not to be placed anywhere near an automobile. It never ceases to amaze me at times...


cheap turbo kits do cause fires sometimes :facepalm:


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> I have a dodge srt4 top mount obx kitted '50 trim' setup in the shop currently that had managed to melt the fuel feed line along with the oil feed line along with the insulation under the rain tray along with the coolant reservoir. Caused a fire which was quickly put out, thankfully. Manifold came with the seemingly patented turbo flange so warped that you cannot put the turbo on with studs installed. The oil feed line did not last 30 mins as whatever they decide to manufacture them out of is certainly not to be placed anywhere near an automobile. It never ceases to amaze me at times...


Sounds like he brought it to the right place, and had a come to jesus moment about his choice in turbo hardware.


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

gdoggmoney said:


> Sounds like he brought it to the right place, and had a come to jesus moment about his choice in turbo hardware.


Ha, I wouldn't go that far. But I will try to work with what he has as it's already such a disaster. It was a friend referral so im almost obligated... Btw, didn't they nail that guy to something?


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> Ha, I wouldn't go that far. But I will try to work with what he has as it's already such a disaster. It was a friend referral so im almost obligated... Btw, didn't they nail that guy to something?


They did, after he supposedly taught a bunch of truth, then they edited the records of him and book about him to benefit their own ends erasing a lot of what he said originally.

If he has a shred of sense, he will be back and probably have you do a header for him or install something nice and cast. 

The OBX material is soooooo thin on their headers. Is this a soda can, or some sort of schedule x tubing? 

I see RWD Volvo guys buying the SS Autochrome headers, and glopping 308 wire all over them with tri gas, sometimes plain wire with plain gas. Eventually, they still fail.


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## V-dubbulyuh (Nov 13, 2005)

[email protected] said:


> The oil feed line did not last 30 mins as whatever they decide to manufacture them out of is certainly not to be placed anywhere near an automobile.


They almost *always *fail and if there is any hint of chaffing rest assured that the oil feed line will loose the battle resulting in oil spraying everywhere. I did an eBay build on someone's car this past weekend and sure enough, oil feed blew as usual within ~ 10 miles.


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## xmedina (Apr 1, 2009)

*spool time*

for the people that ran this setup at what rpm were u seeing full boost and till what rpm? i have the same setup and just trying to compare


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

xmedina said:


> for the people that ran this setup at what rpm were u seeing full boost and till what rpm? i have the same setup and just trying to compare


.63 ar here full boost @ 4800-5000 all the way to 7500


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## xmedina (Apr 1, 2009)

*E*

Really? Cuz i hit full boost at like 3,500 20psi and i start to loose boost at 5,500 will start to fall off


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## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

It's probably a 0.48ar or something.
BTW, I think I get 1.2bar at 4200RPM or so.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

xmedina said:


> Really? Cuz i hit full boost at like 3,500 20psi and i start to loose boost at 5,500 will start to fall off


lol, you must have some kinda problem or a cheap turbo. boost is not supposed to fall off at all with a big turbo. if anything you should be running into boost creep problems with a bigger turbo


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## first9t! (Jul 13, 2009)

Big_Tom said:


> lol, you must have some kinda problem or a *cheap turbo*. boost is not supposed to fall off at all with a big turbo. if anything you should be running into boost creep problems with a bigger turbo


You're posting in the ebay big turbo thread. lol :laugh:


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## 02337 (May 12, 2009)

I thin the earlier random eBay turbos were state as being .63 but most were actually .48ish hot side. I actually measures mine to spec and it was true. I did have to retap the cold side compressor covering after I rebuilt it as the soft aluminum stripped. But after the rebuild and upgrade I've been ok so far no shaft play after 6k on the rebuild an 100 miles a day, all highway. Running 25psi.......I hope I didn't just jinx myself. Full boost hits around 4200 and holds to whatever rpm I decide to pull to, I've never taken it above 7k rpms as its on a stock head.


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## xmedina (Apr 1, 2009)

i have the same emusa turbo from this build.....what turbo are yall running?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

first9t! said:


> You're posting in the ebay big turbo thread. lol :laugh:


oops


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## aaronamerica (Jan 21, 2007)

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=200819096303&cmd=VIDESC 

anyone ever considered this turbo...it's called a t-66 turbo, the specs are 70ar on the Compressor side with a 65mm/82mm blade and the turbine side is a 48ar with 45mm/62mm blade 

this should be a fast spooling turbo right?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

aaronamerica said:


> http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=200819096303&cmd=VIDESC
> 
> anyone ever considered this turbo...it's called a t-66 turbo, the specs are 70ar on the Compressor side with a 65mm/82mm blade and the turbine side is a 48ar with 45mm/62mm blade
> 
> this should be a fast spooling turbo right?


 lol, nope... not spooling fast at all with that turbo :thumbup:


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## aaronamerica (Jan 21, 2007)

great...well what you think about this one http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=160870095315&cmd=VIDESC 

I'm looking to have a quick spooling 330-350 awhp on my daily Avant?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

aaronamerica said:


> great...well what you think about this one http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=160870095315&cmd=VIDESC
> 
> I'm looking to have a quick spooling 330-350 awhp on my daily Avant?


 50 trim it :thumbup:


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

3071r it!


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## aaronamerica (Jan 21, 2007)

tough call...the 50trim is way cheaper


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

aaronamerica said:


> tough call...the 50trim is way cheaper


50 trim FTW :beer:


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

here


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ Garrett Turbos FTW :thumbup: I've got over 65k miles on my journal bearing turbo and it does not even need to be rebuilt... Arnold @ Pag has it now and he said it was in pretty good shape 

Arnold has them listed for $725 brand new... Pay the extra $25 bux for reliability :thumbup: My turbo saw 22+ psi daily for years

http://pagparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_8_28&products_id=296


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## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4dP9OoiPedg&list=FLQnHILf8VRHUQ7GZjKrR3jg
) ebaycharger

over 1 year in 22-25 psi stock engine....and now 30-31 psi with built engine, 630cc, AEB head

spool in 3th 4200 over 22 psi with 0.63


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## xmedina (Apr 1, 2009)

Thay video is halarious the guy in the rocco was like **** ya!, and the gti was like to soon jr...


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

xmedina said:


> Thay video is halarious the guy in the rocco was like **** ya!, and the gti was like to soon jr...


yea that $hit was funny. he thought he had em, but in reality he never had his car hahaha


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## RodgertheRabit II (Sep 13, 2012)

Big_Tom said:


> yea that $hit was funny. he thought he had em, but in reality he never had his car hahaha


:laugh: I was thinkin, "Too Sooon *JR!*":beer:


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## xmedina (Apr 1, 2009)

Tom when u gonna leme see this jetta?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

xmedina said:


> Tom when u gonna leme see this jetta?


i will let you know... car has no turbo right now and i been busy doin other $hit


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## xmedina (Apr 1, 2009)

Well just so u kno i work at a turbo shop on forsyth, we do rebuilds and custom/hybrid turbos and do billet wheel upgrades.


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## xmedina (Apr 1, 2009)

I kno u want a billet whell on that .50 trim


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

xmedina said:


> Well just so u kno i work at a turbo shop on forsyth, we do rebuilds and custom/hybrid turbos and do billet wheel upgrades.





xmedina said:


> I kno u want a billet whell on that .50 trim


LOL, kool. if i need something i'll pm ya or something. Billet would be kool, but i'm not taking my turbo off or apart again for a long time. I'm just lookin to put miles on dis hoe


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## xmedina (Apr 1, 2009)

me drunk letting my roomate drive my 20th gti with my ultimate ebay kit on on 20psi
1st thru 3rd gear srry for the ****ty camera action


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## xmedina (Apr 1, 2009)

another vid same setup 2nd thru 4th on 20psi ebay turbo kit


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

Not bad not bad

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


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## xmedina (Apr 1, 2009)

codergfx said:


> Not bad not bad
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


 Thank u sir, its fun for a daily hopefully some rods are comin my way and i can go with a holset hx35 with a billet wheel!


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

xmedina said:


> Thank u sir, its fun for a daily hopefully some rods are comin my way and i can go with a holset hx35 with a billet wheel!


 Holset FTW:thumbup::thumbup:


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## xmedina (Apr 1, 2009)

BR_337 said:


> Holset FTW:thumbup::thumbup:


 Yup!, gonna do hx35 with a garrett .63 a/r turbine housing and put a billet wheel


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Motor069 said:


> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4dP9OoiPedg&list=FLQnHILf8VRHUQ7GZjKrR3jg
> ) ebaycharger
> 
> over 1 year in 22-25 psi stock engine....and now 30-31 psi with built engine, 630cc, AEB head
> ...


 How is he making 380+ Hp and only pulls a mid/high 13 sec 1/4:sly:


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## xmedina (Apr 1, 2009)

DMVDUB said:


> How is he making 380+ Hp and only pulls a mid/high 13 sec 1/4:sly:


 was wonderin the same thing


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

xmedina said:


> was wonderin the same thing


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

DMVDUB said:


> How is he making 380+ Hp and only pulls a mid/high 13 sec 1/4:sly:


 Because wheel spin? Because schit driving?

Trap speed is the power indicator regardless.


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## 3WheelnGTi (Jan 19, 2008)

His 330' is just terrible ... Thats all driver opcorn:


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## BH17DNB (Feb 21, 2011)

Rod Ratio said:


> Because wheel spin? Because schit driving?
> 
> Trap speed is the power indicator regardless.


 The car from the video is mine. 

We don't know the exact hp of the car, the guy with the rocco said it's 380 to make his lose more acceptable i think? 
We put rods into it, a bigport head, and we're running higher boost, and bigger injectors, we just gotta tune it again. 

the reasons for the time are: 
- the tires at the time we're some ****tty chinese brand (i've got some toyo r888s now) 
- the driving was pretty ****tty at the time (I didn't even know how to warm up the tires properly - my first time attending drag-racing) - practice will make perfect 
- my driving sucked. 

As soon as i get it mapped again i'll put up a dyno sheet. 
I plan on going under 13' this year... 

What is a 330? 
What do you think of the trap speed?


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Trap speed puts you around 310-335 chp. I plugged in different vehicle weights from 3200 lbs- 3400 lbs

http://www.dragtimes.com/horsepower...ubmitButtonName=Calculate+Horsepower+Estimate

Obviously I converted to mph for the calculator


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## 3WheelnGTi (Jan 19, 2008)

BH17DNB said:


> As soon as i get it mapped again i'll put up a dyno sheet.
> I plan on going under 13' this year...


 You could possibly hit your target time now , Work on getting that 60' down to 
at least a 2.1 and work on the throttle control and you could do it :thumbup: Trapping 
around 112 shows this car can do a 13 opcorn:


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## first9t! (Jul 13, 2009)

xmedina said:


> me drunk letting my roomate drive my 20th gti with my ultimate ebay kit on on 20psi
> 1st thru 3rd gear srry for the ****ty camera action


 Any info on your setup? What size injectors and what tune are you running?


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

If any of you guys are sick of the ebay hardware, I tore apart my MkIV 1.8t and have a complete super lightly used pagparts bottom mount 3076 setup. 

It's so lightly used the paint on the turbine is still visible, and the metal of the manifold and turbine housing are still very nice. No cracks, all machined 0 flat and still 0 flat after removal (that's the difference here) 

I'm being lazy about putting up a classifieds ad, but will be doing that this week sometime.


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## xmedina (Apr 1, 2009)

first9t! said:


> Any info on your setup? What size injectors and what tune are you running?


 I have the same setup as the OP when it comes to the hardware, for fueling i went with siemen deka 630cc injectors with an inline walbro 255 fuel pump and on a 3bar fpr. As for tune im running eurodyne maestro 7 630cc injector file with barely any modifications to the base map (only because i dont really know how to use the softwear to its fullest yet) i want to dyno the car here pretty soon and gonzo offerd to remote tune my car on my maestro 7 softwear so i might take him up on that. Any other questions?


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## XBOOMSTICK3x (Apr 22, 2012)

xmedina said:


> I have the same setup as the OP when it comes to the hardware, for fueling i went with siemen deka 630cc injectors with an inline walbro 255 fuel pump and on a 3bar fpr. As for tune im running eurodyne maestro 7 630cc injector file with barely any modifications to the base map (only because i dont really know how to use the softwear to its fullest yet) i want to dyno the car here pretty soon and gonzo offerd to remote tune my car on my maestro 7 softwear so i might take him up on that. Any other questions?


Link to said ebay kit :thumbup:


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## BH17DNB (Feb 21, 2011)

So this is the last dyno measurement we made of the car: 
 

The specs are: 
AGU bigport head 
AGU intake manifold 
BMC air filter with custom intake 
Cupra R 3' MAF 
50trim chinacharger at 26PSI 
38mm china external WG 
ATP cast exhaust manifold 
3' custom turboback exhaust 
IE rods 
ACL bearings 
Walbro 255l/h inline fuel pump 
630cc Siemens Deka fuel injectors 
FMIC Intercooler with custom piping 
Forge DV relocation kit 
Forge Splitter BOV 
AEM W/M stage 2 progressive injection kit 
AEM Tru Boost EBC 
Deleted SAI, N249, PCV 

We tried raising the boost, but the differences were too small to make a difference. 
I think this is the limit of the turbo's airflow capacities. 
As a before/ after comparison, the cars pulls much harder and is quite a bit faster. 
And a photo with the car leaving the dyno


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## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

that is kind of inline with what I get here. 
1.7bar (25psi), no water meth, etc. 








This is a Garrett 50trim, but it's almost the same.


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## BH17DNB (Feb 21, 2011)

nice numbers! 
you can tell the difference in size. 
the chinacharger just didn't want to push any more. from 1.7 to 2 bar we had pretty much the same results. 
we were pretty disapointed with the low torque, but we figured it's because the chinacharger is smaller.


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## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

Yeah, I cannot complaint  
I have basically the same setup as you do. 
You were reving to what? 7500? 
I reved mine to 7200, not sure why the MAHA's show different RPM. 
But our numbers are really different from what the guys see in the US. They see 330whp+ at 26psi, and I only got 282whp. 50whp more out of this turbo, sounds a bit impressive


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## BH17DNB (Feb 21, 2011)

yes, i reved it to about 7500. 
the guy who made my tune said that the MAHA dyno shows the biggest losses in transmision, sometimes bigger losses then it's real. 
indeed 50 a whp difference from just the tune can't be real, i think it has to do with the MAHA dyno.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

BH17DNB said:


> yes, i reved it to about 7500.
> the guy who made my tune said that the MAHA dyno shows the biggest losses in transmision, sometimes bigger losses then it's real.
> indeed 50 a whp difference from just the tune can't be real, i think it has to do with the MAHA dyno.


 50whp with a tune can be very real on a turbo car.


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## xmedina (Apr 1, 2009)

XBOOMSTICK3x said:


> Link to said ebay kit :thumbup:


http://www.speedyracer.com/turbo/turbokit/2005-Jetta-Gti-18L-Turbo-Kit-T3T4-Turbo-Downpipe-VW


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## Laswell2001JETTA (Oct 17, 2012)

I just bought one too only for $600 shipped! http://www.ebay.com/itm/150963173615?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I have a question tho if anyone has the answer. 

where do I get a TIP for the t3/t4 turbo?


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Laswell2001JETTA said:


> I just bought one too only for $600 shipped! http://www.ebay.com/itm/150963173615?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
> 
> I have a question tho if anyone has the answer.
> 
> where do I get a TIP for the t3/t4 turbo?


Siliconeintakes,.com


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## Laswell2001JETTA (Oct 17, 2012)

ty :thumbup:


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

hey guys, just wondering have any of you had any issues mounting the manifold?

i've been trying to do so, and ive been having a hard time putting nuts on cylinders 2 and 3..

How have you guys mounted the manifold?


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## Laswell2001JETTA (Oct 17, 2012)

check my thread about mine i did... 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...t-on-t3-exhaust-mani.&p=82623964#post82623964


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## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

DMVDUB said:


> How is he making 380+ Hp and only pulls a mid/high 13 sec 1/4:sly:


when the car had only 309 bhp 396NM in 20 psi, best is [email protected]/h(street tires and no VHT)


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Bump for a real turbo kit for sale. 3076 pagparts bottom mount. No more tightening stuff every week, warped leaking ebay metal and chinachargers blowing apart on your way to work.


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## Motor069 (Jan 2, 2010)

my EMUSA ) 22psi stock engine

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LisEH113KOw )

<a href="http://www.plici.ro/?v=dynopowert.jpg"><img src="http://www.plici.ro/thumbs/dynopowert.jpg" border="0"></a>


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## planbmatt1 (Mar 26, 2013)

That sounds sick! :beer:

Which turbo are you running and what numbers did u make on dyno? I can't tell just by that pic.


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## planbmatt1 (Mar 26, 2013)

Nvm I read your sig lol. Nice but u can defiently make more power with that turbo. Forge the engine!


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## xmedina (Apr 1, 2009)

My setup has still been going strong any one else?

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk


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## planbmatt1 (Mar 26, 2013)

out of all the parts I got off ebay for my kit none failed me. Just took off everything today as Im going a bigger turbo with legit parts for piece of mind.


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## xmedina (Apr 1, 2009)

I've rebuilt the turbo once due to bad seals and some smoke, but I think I'm gonna keep all the hard wear and go with a 5431 turbo

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

Somewhat on topic:



elRey said:


> After 35k turbo gave up.





elRey said:


> While waiting on a replacement turbo, I disassembled and inspected this one:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Running 24psi daily on new $175 turbo and loving it. I can't say everyone else will have my same experience.

Build thread with dynos and logs if you have questions (again SOMEWHAT on topic :laugh


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## xmedina (Apr 1, 2009)

Nice where did u get that seal???? , yeah rebuilding them is easy I've rebuilt a few for my other cars and friends, all I run is China chargers, and where did u get that vband sadapter?

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk


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