# Torque Wrenchs - Craftsman Vs Husky Vs Pittsburgh Vs Other



## cypaul (May 29, 2007)

Has any one used this Torque Wrench?
http://www.harborfreight.com/c...r=807
$15 . 0-80 lb
I also look at sears, they have one with a range of 5-80 lb for $120.
Homedepot Husky has a range 10-100 lb for $70.
I'm intending to use it for Oil Changes and a Spark plug change. 
I would like to know what others think about those tools and their experiences. 
Also if you have any other brands you would recommend.
Thanks


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## jasonsp6 (Sep 8, 2003)

*Re: Torque Wrenchs - Craftsman Vs Husky Vs Pittsburgh Vs Other (cypaul)*

Take a look at SK tools. I have a 3/8" and 1/2" torque wrench from them. I use them quiet often and never had a problem. The quality is good! They are priced around your price range too.


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## Pats16vGTI (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: Torque Wrenchs - Craftsman Vs Husky Vs Pittsburgh Vs Other (jasonsp6)*

stay away from cheap torque wrenches at the least get a craftsmen...


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## CasaDelShawn (Jun 21, 2000)

*Re: Torque Wrenchs - Craftsman Vs Husky Vs Pittsburgh Vs Other (Pats16vGTI)*

David Wallens @ Grassroots Motorsports did a torque wrench comparo a little while ago (end of '06/beginning of '07, IIRC), and concluded that the $15-$20 Harbor Freight unit worked almost as well as the high-dollar units. I've been using my HF 1/2" drive for about three years now, and haven't had any problems. 
Granted, I don't flog it on a daily basis, but it should be fine for a hobbyist.


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## cypaul (May 29, 2007)

*Re: Torque Wrenchs - Craftsman Vs Husky Vs Pittsburgh Vs Other (CasaDelShawn)*

Thanks to every one answering. After searching and reading there is no one clear answer. 
Below is all the information I have found so far. Thought that it might be useful for someone else who is also looking for a low range torque wrench.
Since I'm not using it many times , I am considering between getting either the HF 3/8 or Lowes.

Homedepot $70
Husky Brand. Lifetime warranty
20-100 ft./lbs. range
3/8
Lowes $74
Kobalt Brand. Lifetime warranty
10-100 ft./lbs. range
3/8
Northern Tools $34.99
5-80 ft./lbs. torque range
3/8
Harbor freight
pittsburgh. Lifetime warranty.
0 to 80 ft./lbs. range
3/8
SK Tools. 1 Year Warranty.
Part No.	Drive	English	Length	Price 
74026	3/8"	25-250 in.lb. (1 in.lb.)	13.40"	$ 160.80	
74104	3/8"	10-100 ft.lb. (.5ft.lb.)	18.00"	$ 162.87
Sears
Craftsman Beam Torque Wrench $25 
3/8 in. Drive
Sears item# 00944690000 Mfr. model# 44690
Craftsman Torque Wrench $80 1 Year Warranty
3/8 in. Drive
Sears item# 00944594000 Mfr. model# 44594
10-75 ft./lbs. range
Craftsman Torque Wrench, $120 1 Year Warranty
3/8 in. Drive
Sears item# 00944596000 Mfr. model# 44596
5 to 80 ft. lb
Craftsman Professional Torque Wrench, $175 2 Year Warranty
3/8 in. Drive 15 to 75 ft./lbs.
Sears item# 00934883000 Mfr. model# 810756
Craftsman Professional Torque Wrench, $165 2 Year Warranty
3/8 in. Drive 4 to 20 Nm
Sears item# 00934882000 Mfr. model# 810776


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## mechsoldier (Aug 14, 2004)

*Re: Torque Wrenchs - Craftsman Vs Husky Vs Pittsburgh Vs Other (cypaul)*

The thing about the HF and Lowes is that while they may start out as accurate the key to mechanical torque wrenches is their calibration. All mechanical torque wrenches need to be calibrated and are supposed to be I think once a year. My craftsman one still works fine for me on headgaskets and the like after a year but will harbor freight or lowes? I would go with at LEAST a craftsman torque wrench.


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## vwpieces (Apr 20, 2002)

*Re: Torque Wrenchs - Craftsman Vs Husky Vs Pittsburgh Vs Other (cypaul)*

May also want to check out mscdirect.com too. They sell Proto for a good competitive price & are on sale often. Lifetime warranty. I got the 250ft.lb 1/2in dr. 
Craftsman http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif because of the warranty


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## raceware (Sep 28, 1999)

*Re: Torque Wrenchs - Craftsman Vs Husky Vs Pittsburgh Vs Other (cypaul)*

Here is what is important in a torque wrench:
* ACCURACY* 
In addition you want a torque wrench that *maintains it's accuracy*. If it needs to be recalibrated every month or two, like many clicker style torque wrenches, you're just wasting your money.
So your next question is how do I know what T/wrench is accurate and what wrench will stay accurate?
The first question is easy. Don't buy any torque wrench that doesn't come with a *certificate of calibration stating the accuracy of the wrench.* That will eliminate about 95% of the T/wrenches on the market. 
The second part of the equation is how to know what T/wrench will maintain it's accuracy without the need to be recalibrated regularly. That too is pretty easy to answer. *Beam style torque wrenches maintain their accuracy for life unless you physically destroy them, i.e. run over them, use them for breaker bars, etc.*
Are there other T/wrenches that *might* be accurate and *might stay* accurate? Probably, but how would you know if the $300 torque wrench *WILL* stay accurate and do you really want to spend $300+ on a T/wrench???
So here's the deal: Buy a beam style T/wrench that comes with a certificate of accuracy with 5% or better maximum deviation full scale. On a 100 lb. torque wrench that would mean it's accurate +/- 5 lbs. @ 100 lbs. and 2.5 lbs. @ 50 lbs.
Now just for informational purposes I can sell people this type of aircraft quality T/wrench with a 2% guaranteed accuracy for around $100, but I'm not looking to sell these on Vortex, I'm just trying to educate people on what is important in a torque wrench and that price guarantees you nothing. 
In general however the lower the price, the lower the quality and usually the accuracy. You can however have a $50 beam style T/wrench that maintains it's accuracy better than a $200 clicker style T/wrench, so don't be swayed just by price, looks, brand, etc. *What counts is ACCURACY and the ability to maintain that accuracy for life.* Beam style T/wrenches are not fancy but they maintain whatever accuracy they have to start with and the right beam style wrench can be more than accurate enough for any automotive application if you chose wisely - as in 5% or better accuracy.


_Modified by raceware at 5:34 PM 2-6-2008_


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## mechsoldier (Aug 14, 2004)

*Re: Torque Wrenchs - Craftsman Vs Husky Vs Pittsburgh Vs Other (raceware)*

Or here's another thought....just buy a damn torque wrench and quit romancing it. The only time most PROFESSIONAL technicians even torque things is for flywheels, head bolts, and anything that has to do with timing (cam caps, cam gears, tensioners). 

It's NOT that big of a deal this isn't an airplane. buy one from sears and be done with it.


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## vwpieces (Apr 20, 2002)

*Re: Torque Wrenchs - Craftsman Vs Husky Vs Pittsburgh Vs Other (mechsoldier)*

I use a torquewrench for my lug bolts. 
My head bolts & rod bolts are "Torque Angle" method.


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## raceware (Sep 28, 1999)

*Re: Torque Wrenchs - Craftsman Vs Husky Vs Pittsburgh Vs Other (mechsoldier)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mechsoldier* »_Or here's another thought....just buy a damn torque wrench and quit romancing it. The only time most PROFESSIONAL technicians even torque things is for flywheels, head bolts, and anything that has to do with timing (cam caps, cam gears, tensioners). 

It's NOT that big of a deal this isn't an airplane. buy one from sears and be done with it.


*WOW, just clueless...* http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
Any *professional* actually torques nuts and bolts per the factory manual. The hacks that think they are professionals probably use an impact wrench.
The OP was asking for advice because he obviously appreciates the fact that the oil drain plug and sparkplugs require a precise tightening torque to prevent leaks and other problems. In typical Net *"wisdumb"* you tell the guy to buy a Sears T/wrench when you have no clue as to what the accuracy is of said wrench. For reference, I have seen clicker style T/wrenches that were off by 50% - yes - 50%. Why even use a T/wrench if it's a POS and inaccurate?
While not an airplane, people have wheels come loose all the time and cause a lot more damage than the price of a quality T/wrench. Stripped sparkplug or oil pan threads ain't a cheap repair either. Obviously common sense went out of fashion with the advent of the Net.
This illustrates why the Internet is referred to by the scientific and engineering communities as the *IgnorantNet*. A few people actually try to learn and do things properly, then they get "wisdumb" from the peanut gallery and don't really know what to believe. I find it quite a disservice to all when ignorance is spewed as knowledge. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## CasaDelShawn (Jun 21, 2000)

*Re: Torque Wrenchs - Craftsman Vs Husky Vs Pittsburgh Vs Other (raceware)*

Wow, you're kind of harsh. You're an engineer, aren't you? (I mean no disrespect, you just put things right out there like I'm used to hearing from an engineer)








You do have a point, though, and one that is not lost on me. I use a clicker for important-but-not-critical things like wheel bolts, but I may now get a bar style for the critical stuff. Thanks for the info! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## cypaul (May 29, 2007)

_Quote, originally posted by *mechsoldier* »_The thing about the HF and Lowes is that while they may start out as accurate the key to mechanical torque wrenches is their calibration. All mechanical torque wrenches need to be calibrated and are supposed to be I think once a year. My craftsman one still works fine for me on headgaskets and the like after a year but will harbor freight or lowes? I would go with at LEAST a craftsman torque wrench.

Recalibration was one of my concerns. 
The lifetime warranty of the Lowes was very attractive feature.
At $30 per calibration. I was thinking that I could just keep buying a new HF T/Wrench.

_Quote, originally posted by *vwpieces* »_May also want to check out mscdirect.com too. They sell Proto for a good competitive price & are on sale often. Lifetime warranty. I got the 250ft.lb 1/2in dr. 
Craftsman http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif because of the warranty

Except for the Craftsman Beam Torque Wrench, Warranty for craftsman is a negative.

_Quote, originally posted by *raceware* »_
So here's the deal: Buy a beam style T/wrench that comes with a certificate of accuracy with 5% or better maximum deviation full scale. On a 100 lb. torque wrench that would mean it's accurate +/- 5 lbs. @ 100 lbs. and 2.5 lbs. @ 50 lbs.
In general however the lower the price, the lower the quality and usually the accuracy. You can however have a $50 beam style T/wrench that maintains it's accuracy better than a $200 clicker style T/wrench, so don't be swayed just by price, looks, brand, etc. *What counts is ACCURACY and the ability to maintain that accuracy for life.* Beam style T/wrenches are not fancy but they maintain whatever accuracy they have to start with and the right beam style wrench can be more than accurate enough for any automotive application if you chose wisely - as in 5% or better accuracy.


I agree that the Beam Torque Wrench would be the most accurate and the most cost effective method. There has been suggestion that a beam wrench could be used check the calibration of the clicker torque wrenches. However I have not read any method that would convince me that it would be accurate. Any thoughts on this? Also do you have any Beam Torque Wrenches to recommend?


_Quote, originally posted by *vwpieces* »_I use a torquewrench for my lug bolts. 
My head bolts & rod bolts are "Torque Angle" method. 

Could you elaborate a little more on the Torque Angle Method? 
Wiki and google it and couldn't find much information. 

____________________________________
I'm still looking to get a torque wrench and want to find out as much as I can about it before I decide which to buy. 

More information on Torque Wrenches.
http://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/kiat_3.htm
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq....html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_wrench
Thanks everyone for their input and replies.


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## vwpieces (Apr 20, 2002)

*Re: Torque Wrenchs - Craftsman Vs Husky Vs Pittsburgh Vs Other (cypaul)*

Check the Bentley for head bolt tourque. 
I have the beam type in 3/8 in lbs & lower spec 1/2 in drive. 
Posted the 250lb Proto in case anyone was looking for hub nut wrench. Sale price was $120


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## mechsoldier (Aug 14, 2004)

*Re: Torque Wrenchs - Craftsman Vs Husky Vs Pittsburgh Vs Other (raceware)*


_Quote, originally posted by *raceware* »_
*WOW, just clueless...* http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
Any *professional* actually torques nuts and bolts per the factory manual. The hacks that think they are professionals probably use an impact wrench.


I didn't say we use impact wrenches but you obviously sound like an engineer as already stated. There are MANY MANY areas on a car where you can't even get a torque wrench in there. 
You can sit there with your engineering math all you want but I've done MANY MANY headgaskets, timing belt jobs, and clutch jobs with my sears torque wrench and NEVER had one of them come back (and yes the place I work has a warranty as well). I live in the real not engineering world.
If you actually think that even 25% of technicians torque even valve covers than you are living in a fantasy world buddy. As already stated head studs, lug nuts (with a torque stick), SOME suspension components, and INTERNAL engine and transmission components are pretty much the only things that technicians torque. I'm sure in your fantasy world this leads to bolts backing out of bell housings, valve covers falling off, and axle bolt failure. However I can assure you that this does not happen often and you are still safe driving about with all the hack job unprofessionals trying to fix the CRAP you guys design even after you give us little to no information on how many things work (Narnia magic)

Oh and to the person who wants to know what torque angle is it's where you torque the nut to say 10 newton meters or whatever and then turn it another 90 or 180 (or whatever) degrees after torquing it. It's used on stretch bolts. 
And for the record, I'm not saying that toque isn't important but an experienced technician can put an oil pan onto the bottom of an engine using only a ratchet and have it not leak for 40-70,000 miles (which is about the range that a factory assembled oil pan will start leaking most of the time anyway). I'm just saying that for MOST things the difference of a couple foot lbs is not an issue. 
You are the one spreading the misinformation of telling the kid that a sears torque wrench won't work for his application. I know plenty of people using them and I've NEVER seen a parts failure due to their use.



_Modified by mechsoldier at 12:40 PM 2-14-2008_


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## Mr. Tickles (Jul 25, 1999)

*Re: Torque Wrenchs - Craftsman Vs Husky Vs Pittsburgh Vs Other (mechsoldier)*

I've got a 3/8 and 1/2 drive Proto torque wrenches and those are spot on. I check them on my torque wrench calibrator at work and in 6 years they haven't needed to be adjusted.


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## mike2coupe (Nov 30, 2006)

*Re: Torque Wrenchs - Craftsman Vs Husky Vs Pittsburgh Vs Other (cypaul)*

oops


_Modified by mike2coupe at 10:27 AM 2-19-2008_


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## mike2coupe (Nov 30, 2006)

*Re: Torque Wrenchs - Craftsman Vs Husky Vs Pittsburgh Vs Other (cypaul)*

chinese tools suck.
ps if you get too big of a torque wrench it won't go down to a low enough setting for spark plugs and you will break them off.
just use a rachet about 1 foot long and pull with 15 pounds of force and you will have 15f/lbs of torque. plenty for spark plugs and oil drains.


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## hickorygti (Sep 17, 2007)

*Re: Torque Wrenchs - Craftsman Vs Husky Vs Pittsburgh Vs Other (mike2coupe)*

As a former toolman, Cornwell tools, there really is little need for a torque wrench on oil pan drain bolts, spark plugs and wheel lugs.
If you work on other people's cars for money, you need it in your toolbox so that when a drain bolt leaks or a spark plug cracks or blows out of the threads or a wheel comes off, you can say, "I torqued it per spec."
As far as your own cars are concerned, always hand thread to start and tighten reasonably with a 3/8" ratchet, 1/2" for the lugs. Never use any power tool on drain pan bolts or spark plugs. Power impacts on lugs are ok, just don't hold the button and wail on them. They only need about 90 ft. lbs on VW's.
Drive the car and check for leaks or looseness.
Buying a torque wrench for these bolts is simply overkill. Unless you simply want a torque wrench.
I would absolutely advise against not using a torque wrench on any timing belt, head work, internal engine work, or transmission work. Here is where precision and accuracy matter. Even on a head, if the torque applied is not enough, the mere fact of applying the same torque to each bolt in the proper pattern will likely be successful.
Remember from physical science class precision and accuracy are two different measurements. Precise is 50 vs 49.4956. Accurate is 50 +/- <1% (49.5-50.5) vs 50 +/- 5% (47.5-52.5).
Also, important practices when using a torque wrench: 1. never drop the wrench,if so, the wrench should be considered out of calibration 2. always, always, always reset the wrench to the lowest setting or zero when finished using 3. one last tip from physical science or automotive tech class...adding an extension to a torque wrench LOWERS applied torque. (For every inch, there's some calculation.)
Just some thoughts from a former tool salesman.


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## Paul. (Jan 29, 2008)

*Re: Torque Wrenchs - Craftsman Vs Husky Vs Pittsburgh Vs Other (hickorygti)*

you suck at the bold feature


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## raceware (Sep 28, 1999)

*Re: Torque Wrenchs - Craftsman Vs Husky Vs Pittsburgh Vs Other (hickorygti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hickorygti* »_As a former toolman, Cornwell tools, there really is little need for a torque wrench on oil pan drain bolts, spark plugs and wheel lugs.
If you work on other people's cars for money, you need it in your toolbox so that when a drain bolt leaks or a spark plug cracks or blows out of the threads or a wheel comes off, you can say, "I torqued it per spec."
As far as your own cars are concerned, always hand thread to start and tighten reasonably with a 3/8" ratchet, 1/2" for the lugs. Never use any power tool on drain pan bolts or spark plugs. Power impacts on lugs are ok, just don't hold the button and wail on them. They only need about 90 ft. lbs on VW's.
Drive the car and check for leaks or looseness.
Buying a torque wrench for these bolts is simply overkill. Unless you simply want a torque wrench.
I would absolutely advise against not using a torque wrench on any timing belt, head work, internal engine work, or transmission work. Here is where precision and accuracy matter. Even on a head, if the torque applied is not enough, the mere fact of applying the same torque to each bolt in the proper pattern will likely be successful.
Remember from physical science class precision and accuracy are two different measurements. Precise is 50 vs 49.4956. Accurate is 50 +/- <1% (49.5-50.5) vs 50 +/- 5% (47.5-52.5).
Also, important practices when using a torque wrench: 1. never drop the wrench,if so, the wrench should be considered out of calibration 2. always, always, always reset the wrench to the lowest setting or zero when finished using 3. one last tip from physical science or automotive tech class...adding an extension to a torque wrench LOWERS applied torque. (For every inch, there's some calculation.)
Just some thoughts from a former tool salesman.


Wow, a little bit of knowledge is dangerous... It's safe to say that VW and every car company publishes tightening specifications for threaded fasteners *FOR A REASON* and that reason is so that *the fastener is tensioned PROPERLY so it can function properly and safely.* That includes sparkplugs, wheel lugs, head bolts, suspension, brakes and every other important threaded fastener on an automobile. A fastener that is over or under tensioned is likely to fail, loosen or create other problems. It's just ignorant to tell people to *NOT use a torque wrench on a modern automobile.* It ain't like they are working on a friggin wheelbarrow where if the wheel falls off it's no big deal... 
You're dealing with people's LIVES here. If a wheel falls off, a brake caliper comes loose, a suspension component comes loose, a drain plug falls out, a sparkplug strips out, etc. it's a dangerous and expensive problem because of ignorant Net "wishdumb" regarding tightening of thread fasteners and components. *You should really educate yourself before posting such uninformed and dangerous opinion.*










_Modified by raceware at 8:25 AM 2-22-2008_


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## rivethead (Nov 27, 2004)

*Re: Torque Wrenchs - Craftsman Vs Husky Vs Pittsburgh Vs Other (raceware)*

http://www.torqwrench.com/ Certification comes with the wrench.
The only thing I dont torque is rod bolts - I use a stretch gauge.


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## hickorygti (Sep 17, 2007)

*Re: Torque Wrenchs - Craftsman Vs Husky Vs Pittsburgh Vs Other (raceware)*

raceware...i know more about tools than most people. i guess everyone is entitled to an opinion.
if you think my opinion and education are incorrect, i challenge you to stand and watch the most experienced and highest paid technicians in your town at respected dealerships or independent shops.
I'll bet you money that what I reported is accurate and correct.
I spent four years of my life making a living selling tools to these exact people and asking questions about why they do what they do and what the impacts are.
Before you go spouting off about what I do and don't know...best check the details.
Just a thought.


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## Mr. Tickles (Jul 25, 1999)

*Re: Torque Wrenchs - Craftsman Vs Husky Vs Pittsburgh Vs Other (hickorygti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hickorygti* »_
Remember from physical science class precision and accuracy are two different measurements. Precise is 50 vs 49.4956. Accurate is 50 +/- <1% (49.5-50.5) vs 50 +/- 5% (47.5-52.5).


Precision is repeatability, accuracy is how close to the mark the work is. You can't have one measurement and say it's precise. 
On a scale of 50, hitting 23 four times is precise, but not accurate. Hitting 48, 49, 50, and 51 is accurate, but not precise.


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Sears is having a sale this week on their torque wrenches for $69.95 thru 03/01/0 these are availible in the 1/2" and 3/8" drive sizes: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_1...rench 
craftsman club is on this week as well so you may get a extra 10% off.


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## CorradoFuhrer (Mar 21, 2002)

My hf T/r wasn't clicking at 7 lbs it over tightened the drain plug on the oil filter, it's fine but it even over torqued the filter housing that it set right at 18 ft lbs before. Not sure why it didn't engage that low.

Hand tight with a 3/8 up by he ratchet head is probably close to 7 lbs. HF seems to work well though at stuff above 10 ft lbs.


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