# Rear Door Panel Removal/Window Regulator Replacement DIY



## yakkonvazn (Jan 14, 2003)

1. Open your door wide open











2. Remove the tweeter cover. Remove the window switch top cover using a very thin wedge or something that won't damage the trim. Remove door trim. Remove 2 screws (t25)



















3. Use wedge/pry tool or something to pop out the interior door panel, starting from the bottom and working your way up along the sides, carefully. The unhook the top part of the panel from the tract, by pulling up forcefully. 


4. While holding the panel, use other hand to pop out the cable for the door and unhook it from the panel. Also you need to remove the connector near the speaker and the connector with a purple tab connected to the window motor.



























5. Remove 3 screws (t30?) that holds the motor to the regulator, which is on the other side the metal sheet. Admire the damaged regulator. Pinch the white tabs and push into the other side to unmount regulator.



























6. Pry/pop out the black plastic/rubber piece to gain access to the regulator when removing it later on. Remove 4 screws (t25).



















7. Pull out rubber pieces on each end of the door. This side and one near the hinges. Also, remove circle rubber cover which conceals another screw. Remove, all for screws (t40-45?)



















8. Remove that screw (t30?).











9. Once all 9 screws are removed, pull out the top window frame towards you for about 2-3 inches and then pull up carefully, but forcefully.











































10. Remove the damaged regulator by sliding the window glass off and unscrewing the one screw (t25). Also, two other screws holding the glass to the regulator need to be removed. Then replace with new regulator. 



























11. Replace the window frame by tilting it towards you and sliding it down into place. Will take a couple of tries, but you'll eventually get it in.


12. Make sure that the screw holes are aligned and screw all 9 screws back together. Pop the window regulator tabs back into place.



















13. Reinstall everything.


14. Done. 1- 1.5 hours max.


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## TackeeA3 (Feb 13, 2004)

Good job bud:thumbup:


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## yakkonvazn (Jan 14, 2003)

thanks for the part. The hardest part of the job was posting these pics and editing them. hahah :beer: :thumbup:


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Good work. Thanks for the photo DIY.


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## renohuskerdu (May 1, 2010)

Excellent post. Too bad you don't have a MkIII like mine


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## FreeGolf (Sep 18, 2003)

excellent write-up... thank you.

side note, has anyone here swapped to oem window shade integrated door panels? 

curious on the price and the difficulty.


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## armando.deguzman (Jul 27, 2010)

*Rear-Driver side Window Regulator Repair Kit*

Does anyone know where I can find a Rear Driver Side Window Regulator Repair kit? I'm having trouble finding one on the internet. Thanks.


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## vtraudt (Mar 1, 2010)

*A3 8P window regulator repair clips*

I am stocking (well, trying) all available Audi (and VW) window regulator repair clips for models sold in North America.

I just came across a client with a failed front left window regulator.

I am now contacting my European manufacturers to see if they make the A3 8P clips (front and rear), and I am in need of good photos showing the clip.

Also looking for good, detailed DIY write ups for taking the door panels off, changing the regulator (and clips).

Please PM or send email (photos!) to [email protected]


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## TechnikSLR (Jul 30, 2008)

vtraudt said:


> I am stocking (well, trying) all available Audi (and VW) window regulator repair clips for models sold in North America.
> 
> I just came across a client with a failed front left window regulator.
> 
> ...


so you get a diy for free? i think the client needs to be compensated.


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## vtraudt (Mar 1, 2010)

TechnikSLR said:


> so you get a diy for free? i think the client needs to be compensated.


The client is the one getting the clip.
The forums get a source for clips at a reasonable price.

But yes, I am 'compensating' those who contribute (and may become clients).
They get free clips (only pay S&H) (either for models I already stock, or the clips I am trying to find manufacturers for).

Currently stocking (examples) (clips in large quantity, as 'back up' for clients-in-need also small quantity of pulleys, typically just one set of cables) for those models:
A3 (8L) front
A4 (B5) front
A4 (B6, B7) front, rear
A6 (C5) front
A6 (C6) rear (rare; took me a while to get that one)
Passat front, rear (with the peg/pin)
Golf front, rear
Jetta front, rear
Beetle front
Jetta front (metal)

Others: BMW, Saab, Volvo, Jaguar, Porsche, Land Rover, Mercedes, Ford Focus, some GM, Lincoln LS, Opel Astra,


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## xgarage (Oct 14, 2004)

I had my rear driver side fixed at the dealer for $500. Now my rear passenger went bad I think I will try this DIY. 

Is this the right part or any where I can get the part cheaper?
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2206851/


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## ryuuoh (Jul 27, 2008)

What year?
http://genuineaudiparts.com/parts/2...p=GLASS & HARDWARE&component=Window regulator


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## xgarage (Oct 14, 2004)

ryuuoh said:


> What year?
> http://genuineaudiparts.com/parts/2...p=GLASS & HARDWARE&component=Window regulator


Awesome! Mine is 2006!


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## vtraudt (Mar 1, 2010)

xgarage said:


> I had my rear driver side fixed at the dealer for $500. Now my rear passenger went bad I think I will try this DIY.
> 
> Is this the right part or any where I can get the part cheaper?
> http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2206851/


Well, "right" has a few interpretations:

A) it could fit your (assuming you have the listed year/model/location
B) you may only need the plastic guide clip. They are by far the most common cause for failure. I think I have them in stock. Ca $20 shipped in US.

Sidenote: ECS is talkink about dusted cables as a cause. I have not seen one rusted czble causing an audi regulator to fail!


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## xgarage (Oct 14, 2004)

vtraudt said:


> Well, "right" has a few interpretations:
> 
> A) it could fit your (assuming you have the listed year/model/location
> B) you may only need the plastic guide clip. They are by far the most common cause for failure. I think I have them in stock. Ca $20 shipped in US.
> ...


U got PM!


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## vwlippy (Jul 17, 2001)

Just used this DIY... very helpful. 
Awesome write up/photos. 

I didn't see this in the FAQ section, but it should be there. 

Thanks!


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

vwlippy said:


> Just used this DIY... very helpful.
> Awesome write up/photos.
> 
> I didn't see this in the FAQ section, but it should be there.
> ...


I used this one too. Like 8 times now :facepalm:


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

BeeAlk said:


> I used this one too. Like 8 times now :facepalm:


But that was more out of personal choice, not necessity.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

krazyboi said:


> But that was more out of personal choice, not necessity.


Well, half true. Window regulator busted, then motor stripped, then door handle cable thing snapped, then I forgot to put the insulation back in lol. 

Good news is I can now take off the door card in about 3 minutes flat


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## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

Quick question on this DIY....

I want to replace the metal triangle trim piece on the exterior of the rear door and from the pictures it looks like the bolt holding it in place is just inside the frame. Can I simply lift up the entire window frame after unbolting it from the door frame, and NOT actually have to remove the regulator? My windows are fine, but that trim piece needs some TLC so I want to swap it out with a new one I have.

Thanks...


*** Here's the piece I'm looking to replace


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

The regulator does not have to separate from the window frame to pull it out of the door. Not sure if that triangle piece requires removal of the regulator though.


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## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

Yea, that's what I'm not sure of either... I just don't wanna mess with it since it's working fine... But that triangle trim piece has got to go now that it's starting to look worse... I guess I'll take my chances...


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

You shouldn't screw anything up by removing the regulator if you end up having to do so..


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## TurboChrisB (Feb 25, 2012)

Great DIY, just replaced my left rear with a $50 replacement regulator from rockauto.com. Works GREAT.


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## vtraudt (Mar 1, 2010)

xgarage said:


> I had my rear driver side fixed at the dealer for $500. Now my rear passenger went bad I think I will try this DIY.
> 
> Is this the right part or any where I can get the part cheaper?
> http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2206851/


I think this is 2009-2011 year models.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

vwlippy said:


> Just used this DIY... very helpful.
> Awesome write up/photos.
> 
> I didn't see this in the FAQ section, but it should be there.
> ...


Sometimes I think the mods have abandoned us. There was a period a few months back when they were going to update the DIY section. I did one and JRutter did like 3 of them.... never got added. There's some gems in here too, but they take a while to find without being easily accessible at the top where they should be.


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## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

I tackled this on the weekend and it's sounds a lot worse than it actually is... Highly recommend having an extra set of hands... Managed to take it apart and back together in less than an hour...


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

everfresh59 said:


> I tackled this on the weekend and it's sounds a lot worse than it actually is... Highly recommend having an extra set of hands... Managed to take it apart and back together in less than an hour...


It really is, isn't it? The first time you do it you'll be surprised at how easy it was.. Then the next 5+ times you do it you won't even have to think and you'll get it done in 25 minutes.


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## avinnc (Aug 25, 2014)

*Thank you OP!!!*

Just want to thank the OP for a great write-up! I just replaced the regulator in my 2006 A3 in under 90mins... The write-up is spot on! 

Bryan


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## vwcoupe (Mar 29, 2003)

Thanks for a very nice write-up on this. Using this guide for my 2009 A3, I took it apart, and crazy glue the broken piece and zip tied it so that for now, my window will stay up. I was mad about that plastic piece, but for now, I am at peace. I just need to order a new regulator and redo.


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## DLV (Dec 10, 2012)

:beer::beer::beer:

Read your post, looked at photos, tore door apart, taped window in up position and ordered regulator. Thanks for the write up.


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## Greddy87 (Oct 21, 2010)

Great DYI.. :thumbup:


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## HEM2007 (Mar 13, 2015)

*Excellent write-up. Thank you.*

This saved me a lot of time instead of trying to figure it out on my own.


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

This thread is also a general guid on how much work it takes to change out the rear triangle and switch for brilliant black


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## absolutt (Aug 10, 2007)

This is a really useful write-up and saved me a number of headaches.

Mine failed on the left rear passenger door due to a tremendously forceful wind slamming the door shut. The concussion fractured the plastic at the stress point, where the cable end piece fits inside the plastic retainer. That plastic is made of a composition that resists repair, due to the high oil content. You have to either replace that piece or the whole regulator.

Also important to note is that the replacement window regulator part has changed a bit. It does not look identical to the OEM part. And it's a slightly different technique to securing the window to the mounting bracket.

*Click on thumbnails to enlarge* (_while PostImg still exists... they're having financial trouble and photos may eventually disappear_)

   

I was able to buy this off an eBay seller (huge volume auto parts seller) for under $40 shipped. Well worth it for the peace of mind, compared to getting the plastic bracket alone (which is about $20, for a good quality item--avoid that cheap junk from Turkey). Some key plastic parts that get stressed and can break are replaced with metal in this regulator, except for one... the window attachment piece... but it looks to be a better design than the original. Although lacking the more attractive looking black enameled metal frame, the replacement regulator is very sturdy and of course is hidden inside the door (nothing to see, so looks are unimportant).


*Some tips on this procedure:*

If you use duct tape to secure the window in place while you wait for the part and time to do this, be aware that the longer the duct tape is in place, the more "tape gunk" will be left behind upon removal. I left mine in place for 2 months. It was a nasty mess! Needed 3oz of alcohol to get it all off.
The inner door panel is a pain to detach, unless you use a large piece of firm non-scratching plastic, like a spatula. Slide-n-pry gradually around the door perimeter, as you do not want to break any of the securing clips.
Raising the inner door panel up and off the door is a PITA. You really have to struggle to get the angle just right. Take your time and don't force it too much.
There are a lot of little screws. Be sure you keep track of them and where they go. I found it helpful to take a sheet of paper and draw a diagram of the door, then tape the screws to it so it's easy to remember where they go.
The T-45 is an uncommon Torx bit. Make sure you have one before you start this or you will be stuck. I bought an extended good quality Torx bit set off eBay for about $10 shipped (USA).
That inner black hard plastic panel (visible after removing the inner door panel) is a pain to take off, and it's easy to break a clip. S be cautious. But a single broken clip won't prevent a tight fit. Just make sure that you don't break more than one!
Sliding the window back into the door is tricky. You will need to fiddle with the foam insulation that helps prevent rattling, to get it to slide into place. You will need to slide your hand inside the door to help guide the lower part of the window regulator. Be wary of the outer rubber stripping as it can end up pushed down and into the door (a screw driver comes in handy to pry back up).
*NOTE*: the bottom screw of the window regulator requires two hands to secure (one hand to hold it while the other hand turns the screw). You won't be able to do this if you pop the inner black hard plastic panel in place first!
People may gloat about doing this in an hour, but it'll take longer to keep mistakes to a minimum. It took me 2.5 hours. Fix is solid.
Note that the window won't auto up/down at first. You need to "exercise" the window fully up/down at least once in each direction for it to "reset."
This is really not that bad a job to do... and it'll save you over $300 off the dealer parts & labor costs.


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## Uber-A3 (Feb 23, 2002)

Be nice if these pictures worked, Photobucket peckerwoods.


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## absolutt (Aug 10, 2007)

Uber-A3 said:


> Be nice if these pictures worked, Photobucket peckerwoods.


It was actually the fault of Post Image. Their top level domain had to change for image URLs (from .org to .cc). Thankfully I could edit the post and fix the image links. Sorry I'd forgotten to check back on this for so long.


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