# building mk1 rabbit gti as track car.....help



## rstrabbit (Sep 28, 2015)

Hi everyone, I'm new to this forum but I've been an VW loyal for decades. Few years ago I bought a clean 84 GTI from New Mexico and started working on it but took some time of due to kids. Now I'm back at it and want to turn it into a killer track car and could use some help. 
This is what I've done so far:
Got the car running with its original 1.8L 8V, stipped the interior, welded brackets for Sparco seats, installed coilovers.
What I need help is getting a widebody kit and I need to know where to start with that. Also would like a 2.0L 16 valve and turbo charge it. Wheels and slicks and a roll cage. Let me know if any one can assist. I live in Clinton Township MI. Thanks.


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## smaceng (Sep 21, 2013)

Hi, 
We run a 1983 GTI on the 24 Hours of Lemons circuit. A major weak point is the front axle bearings. We upgraded to the MK3 hubs, with the larger bearings and brake rotors. Also, using the stock tank was a problem with slosh in the tank and engine cut-out. Turn out the baffles came loose. We upgraded to a 1995 ABA 2.0 l engine and we are using a Digi 1 electronic fuel injection system. May not be the ideal, but it works ok, with a big increase in power. I would say that make sure whatever mods you make will be ok with whatever organization rules you will be racing under.
Good luck, Scott in CA


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## rstrabbit (Sep 28, 2015)

smaceng said:


> Hi,
> We run a 1983 GTI on the 24 Hours of Lemons circuit. A major weak point is the front axle bearings. We upgraded to the MK3 hubs, with the larger bearings and brake rotors. Also, using the stock tank was a problem with slosh in the tank and engine cut-out. Turn out the baffles came loose. We upgraded to a 1995 ABA 2.0 l engine and we are using a Digi 1 electronic fuel injection system. May not be the ideal, but it works ok, with a big increase in power. I would say that make sure whatever mods you make will be ok with whatever organization rules you will be racing under.
> Good luck, Scott in CA


Thank you Scott for the advice and info on parts. I've been looking at a ABA 2.0 for some time but everything I found so far had a lot of miles so I've been waiting. As far as the fuel tank I've already repaced it with a new one as well as the pump and all the filters. I'm not really planning on racing in any organization just plan on buying track time at different track events and do the best I can. Would like to find out what type of wheels I need to look at in order to buy slicks? Let me know if you have any leads on that. Thanks a lot.


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## Sean mk6 (Dec 11, 2015)

You want to run actual racing slicks? Maybe R-comps to start? What size wheels would you like to run or even tire size would be desirable to you? Maybe the brakes you are planning on using will help with what size wheels you are going to use, clearance wise.


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## rydermike (Jul 23, 2010)

*Mk1 stuff*

Where are you located? In the very near future I will have a aba shortblock available and Coraddo front brakes off a Mk1 (can't use them for my racing class, besides they won't fit under a 13 inch wheel !) As for body parts here is a reasonable place: http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/rabbit.html


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## DanielSL (Feb 9, 2016)

Rule number one, is to know what you are building.

Any type of racing. Any vehicle.

What organization will you be running with? What class? Have you read the rules for your class yet? 

What are your limitations in each of the following categories: Body, Interior, Protection (bar/cage), Engine, Trans, Brakes, Suspension, Exhaust and Intake, Etc...

What length tracks, and style tracks will you be running at? You will want to build your trans for the majority of your local tracks, so you are not switching out final R&P's, and gear ratios. Even if you build multiple transmissions, you don't want to swap for every track, unless you're running for a championship.

Then you can prep to build the car.

If you are planning on going with a 2.0 and later doing a turbo, it will be cheaper to just get a 1.8T out of a Mk. 4 chassis. Upgrade the front steering knuckles/spindles/brakes to the Mk. 3 stuff at least. Upgrade the rear stub axles to the Mk. 4 stuff.

Mk. I's are flimsy. That's why they're so light. If you can, by your rule set, cage the hell out of it. Extra strengthening and bracing everywhere.

I had multiple Mk. I GTi's in Showroom stock, Street Stock, and SCCA IT classes. They are wonderful little buggers to run. You will definitely be happy.


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## smaceng (Sep 21, 2013)

Hey guys and gals, 
I wanted to update you with our recent improvements to our race car...a 1983 Rabbit GTI.
We race in the 24 Hours of Lemons.....which is endurance racing on road courses with a $500 car to start.
I just finished my 10th race at Thunderhill Raceway in Willows CA. The object in Lemons racing as I see it is to have fun, be safe, and try to finish the race. Each weekend we race for about 14 hours split over two days. We have had a lot of fun and have been able to say out of trouble, but not always finishing. We have had blown up engines (make sure the coolant is free of air bubbles), transmission stuck in third gear, wheels falling off (use upgraded hubs), blown clutch (teach driver how to drive a clutch vehicle), etc. For the longest time, we had a stock suspension. Recently we got our suspension dialed in and it is very good. Coil overs on the front (400 lb/in) with stock sway bar. Upper and lower braces. At the rear, coil overs with 350 lb/in springs and the stock sway bar with a upper brace on the top of the towers. Car is now very well balanced with less body roll. Car is much easier to drive, but beware, when it goes, it goes off the track all four wheels, not much chance to catch it!
Cheers to you and good safe racing!
The Cheese Whiz Rabbit 
Scott in CA


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## jimbbski (Jun 3, 2007)

I race a 16V Scriocco and I have made some upgrades that enhance reliability to the front suspension and improve handling.

I modify the front hubs to accept VW Dasher front hubs and wheel bearings.
I machine the hub to accept a steel bushing to the outside of the knuckle that is then welded to the knuckle.
The bearing bore is then enlarged to accept the larger diameter Dasher wheel bearing.
I add snap ring groves and I'm done.
The Dasher hub is twice as thick as the Mk1 hub due to having a larger OD where the CV stub axle fits into.

Another mod is raised ball joints.
I make my own ball joints using a spherical bearing installed in a housing that looks like the stock ball joint housing that bolts to the lower A arm.
It is just taller so it lowers the control arm and improves the handling.

These mods are not cheap as each BJ would cost around $100-110 and the knuckle about $75 not counting the Dasher WB and hub that's required.


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## RennWerks (Aug 19, 2003)

*Need Inspiration?*

This seems like the appropriate thread in which to preserve this YouTube clip. Hopefully, it will inspire those who are crazy enough to want to continue to run the first generation of Rabbits/Golfs in some form of motorsports. Enjoy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tXoVc4wz9gk


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