# Jetta dies at redlight....code P0322



## Firedogut (Jun 10, 2005)

So I was driving around and my Jetta died while at a stop light. I turned the key and after 2-3 sec the car stated back up but the EPC light was on. Drove into a parking lot, turned the car off and back on. Started up with out an issue but now the check engine light was on. Lucky for me I was only a few miles from a part shop and was able to look up the code. While stopped the car died again and started up after 3-4 attempts. Drove nice and easy and was able to make it to the store. The code was
P0322 “ignition/Dist Engine Speed input Circuit no signal”
Of course I was WTF does that mean so I had the guy look it up. Their little computer stated “poor electrical connection or faulty CKP sensor”
After checking the code I go to start the car and it won’t start. Pissed off cranked the engine for about 15-20 sec and it started up however it would not go above 3000 RPM.
So I take it that my crankshaft sensor is bad and needs to be replaced. Does that sound right? 
Where is it? What does it look like? Is it easy to do? And is this going to cost me my left nut? Anything cause the sensor to fail or are they just junk?
Oh yeah I have a 2005 Jetta 2.5L with just over 60,000 miles on it.


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## Firedogut (Jun 10, 2005)

*Re: Jetta dies at redlight....code P0322 (Firedogut)*

ok car been sitting for a hour......starts up fine and able to get the RPM above 3000. EPC light is off but the check engine light is still on.

dealer wants $200-250 in labor plus $50 for the part.


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## csapp (Mar 22, 2005)

If it is the crank sensor on the bottom of the crank mounted close to the engine/tranny, it takes about 30 secs to change it. Unplug the harness, two allen bolts, and reconnect. They do fail, and they don't get better once they fail.


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## Firedogut (Jun 10, 2005)

*Re: (csapp)*

can you give a little more detail on the location. it is hard to see anything.
anyone have a pic?


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## Unilateral Phase Detractor (Aug 23, 2005)

*Re: Jetta dies at redlight....code P0322 (Firedogut)*

I haven't heard of CKP sensors being faulty on Jettas before but I'm curious to see how things turnout.


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## Firedogut (Jun 10, 2005)

i have searched the forum and found a bunch of older jettas (old body style and different engine) that have failed. guess the 2.5 has the same issues.


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## Trua (Apr 10, 2007)

I have the same problem on my car. It happens when I drive the engine cuts off and then back on with the epc on. I turn off the car and back on the the light goes away. I'm waiting for the car to do it again for I could take it to the dealer.


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## cbloyer81 (Jan 14, 2011)

I did a quick write up of this procedure. 

I was getting the following codes at about 90,000 miles:

2 Faults Found: 
000802 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal 
P0322 - 004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent - MIL ON

I fixed the code by going to the dealer and picking up what they called the crankshaft position sensor. I know when I was investigating this I was trying to figure out what the difference was between the engine speed sensor, crankshaft position sensor, and the camshaft position sensor. The engine speed sensor and crankshaft sensor are the same thing. The camshaft position sensor is different. 


The part number for the crankshaft position sensor is 07K-906-433-B and it lists for $63.03.

Here you can see the location of the sensor.










Here you can see the two fasteners holding it in. 










There are two tie down points for the cable. Be careful with the metal one, it will stay on the old sensor and you'll think you lost it. 










This is where the harnes connects. Remove it from it's bracket and disconnect.










Two photos of the sensor. 



















Installation is the reverse of removal.


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## Unilateral Phase Detractor (Aug 23, 2005)

cbloyer81 said:


>


Awesome write-up!

I think you solved the mystery of why my car had the EPC and CEL illuminate while driving through a humongous downpour in Florida. That sensor is exposed such that I could see it getting troubled by water intrusion.


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## eatrach (May 13, 2004)

just had CEL and EPC lights came on. I have to yet check out the codes; too dark outside. 
But car is running rough. Dang it, and I have two patients to attend to today.


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## Fantomasz (Aug 15, 2001)

must drain oil before?


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## curbaez (May 29, 2013)

*was it fixed ?*

were you able to fix your problem by replacing the crankshaft sensor ? 
Im having the same exact problem at 108k miles, to replace the EPC is 1000 plus calibration
- I dont think you need to perform an oil change to replace the sensor ....do you ?
Thanks


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## [email protected] (Oct 26, 2012)

curbaez said:


> were you able to fix your problem by replacing the crankshaft sensor ?
> Im having the same exact problem at 108k miles, to replace the EPC is 1000 plus calibration
> - I dont think you need to perform an oil change to replace the sensor ....do you ?
> Thanks


If you are having the same issue it is very likely the crank sensor. Its always tough to say for sure because there are a lot of different reasons why things can happen. You should not need to drain the oil to install this part. Should just be the 2 5mm allen bolts that hold it in. 

http://www.deutscheautoparts.com/View/07K-906-433-B/0/150127


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## curbaez (May 29, 2013)

*its all good now*

thanks to autozone for the crankshaft sensor $53 bucks
problem went away ....

Thanks


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## vw_n (Sep 23, 2013)

*problem fixed*

My 2005 Jetta 2.5 had this same problem since last week.. I just replaced the crankshaft position sensor and its gone now.. 

except the part I got from autozone (duralast i think).. one of the screws broke when I tightened it too much.. but the other screw is holding it pretty well and Im not sure if I should try and remove the broken screw using a screw extractor and put in the one from the old sensor.. 

Im just planning to wait it out.. if I see any oil leaks then I might try that route..

But thanks guys.. I thought this was going to burn a big hole in my wallet.. hopefully I wont have to touch it again..


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## ozonejetta (Mar 20, 2014)

*i need one also*

on ebay these range fro $6 to $90. wonder what the difference is between the $6 and the $90. other than $84


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## RoadRunnerM3 (Feb 24, 2015)

*Perfect! Worked for me*

Same symptoms - Started car in parking lot, began to accelerate and car bogged down and nearly stalled but I pushed in clutch and save it. Car drove okay, but no more than 3K RPM. EPC light on. Drove for 1 mile and decided to turn car off and then back on. It took about 15 seconds of cranking for car to fire and now check engine light and EPC. Limped home, reset ECU (pulled positive battery cable and reconnected - car wouldn't start at all) and called to get it towed to dealer. While waiting for tow truck, found this forum and cancelled tow and drove wife's car to VW to pick up the crankshaft position sensor. Came back and spent an hour replacing sensor (NEED longer allen wrench) and once complete, engine fired up immediately. Yeah!! THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!


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## cbloyer81 (Jan 14, 2011)

I'm glad to see this is still helping people.

- No need to change the oil, but it looks like you guys figured that out.


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## Blkzilla (Jul 24, 2008)

Are you guys running stock intakes? I have a P-Flo. P0322 is one of the codes I'm getting. The others are P0102 & P0113. I believe the P01* codes are related to the intake air/fuel ratios being out of wack. My question is can the P01 codes cause the Crank Shaft Position sensor to fail?

My car is currently at the shop. Rep wants to install the factory airbox before proceeding w/ diag. I'm curious as to what the final diag will be, now that I've found this thread.


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

Bump.

I'm having this issue, and i just ordered the sensor. Will install later tonight and then will confirm the fix.

I have all the symptoms including the random no start, the bog downs, the random limp modes, the random misfires, etc.


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

^^ in for results.


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

le0n said:


> ^^ in for results.


i was going to change it yesterday but i saw that i had grease all over. CV boot thing needs replacing. I Will maybe change the sensor today.


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

Changed the sensor last night, the car started without hickups, no CEL, no nothing.

All is good in the world.

I diagnosed the issue easily: i was going to run some logs, and saw that vag com was randomly telling me about misfires, and it was cutting off on the RPM signal. Then i got the code 0322, and right away it was clear that the RPM sensor was going bad.

Replacing takes... 30 mins total? remove the undertray and then just unplug, and unbolt. Easy.


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

^^ nice.

I wonder if I should just buy this sensor to have on hand.


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

Its $100 at the dealer, or 50 with the above post.

Buy it whenever the car starts miss behaving. I've been having random and irregular issues for the last 2 months, when the sensor was working intermittently. It finally gave up last week.


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

^^ gotcha.


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## Oldskull (Aug 6, 2015)

*crank sensor test*

does anyone know how to test the sensor? I have taken it out but I have not ordered it yet.


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## 06jettaSEL (May 24, 2011)

Oldskull said:


> does anyone know how to test the sensor? I have taken it out but I have not ordered it yet.


There is some YT videos about testing the crankshaft sensor, you will need tools but I recommend changing for a new one. Had this issue recently in my G35 coupe and replaced both camshaft (bank1&2) and crankshaft sensor together as it's preventative maintenance and was throwing a p0345 code, slip/cel lights came on. Car was having starting problems (extended cranks) but ran like new, but others have the same code would randomly shut off or bog down in traffic...scary! So better to replace it and be done with it. 

You don't want to skimp out on the OEM sensors as they will fail prematurely or come DOA. Infiniti sensor was $110/ea they have some online for $40-50 bucks YMMV. Same with VW I would imagine. :thumbup:


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

you can test it with a tester. Search around, mk4 people have many written diy on the testing and proper diagnosing.


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## Datboul (Sep 26, 2018)

*Great instructions!!!*

I greatly appreciate the play by play instructions and changed the crankshaft sensor in 10 mins overall. Autozone had the sensor $50 bucks plus tax hopefully this will solve the mystery. My issue was the car would start and I'd drive and the car would just cut off and die!!! WTF... Luckily both times it cut back on about 15 mins later and drove the car home. Weird part is that once the car sat it like reset and the EPC light disappeared and cars do not fix themselves, at least not yet. The second time I had a code reader and P0322 came up and I looked it up on this site and browsed this thread. Very helpful will update everyone should it be something else but I'll play it by ear.


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## dsleggett (Feb 5, 2006)

*Thanks for the help 16706.P0322 & 16490.P0106*

Just did this on a friend's 2005 Jetta 2.5. Same EPC and MIL that would disappear after sitting for a while. I think the failure is heat related as once the car cools down everything seems fine. Replaced sensor with Duralast from Autozone, $48 plus tax, LIFETIME WARRANTY (who does that!). Maybe 15 minutes for the project mostly jacking it up etc. My VAG V-checker gave me 16706.P0322 and 16490.P0106.


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## danielscars (Mar 14, 2019)

In the morning I went to start my car and it’s started roughed and bogged really hard 3 times before I turned the car off. I let the car rest for a minute and then started it again and it started perfectly fine. I have a 2009 vw Jetta 2.5L. I drove to 2 places and the car started and drove fine. Then I was in a drive through and the car was idling and then it just died on me. I went to crank it and it just wouldn’t start up again. I did it 2 times but then on the third time i gave it gas and it finally started and the EPC light came on. I drove the car without letting go of the gas all the way home because I didn’t want to be stranded. I got home and parked the car. I started the car and it cranked and started again when I gave it some gas. At this point the check engine light turned on so I just let the car run to get all the codes read properly. The first code I got was P0322. I found this forum and went out and bought the crankcase sensor and replaced it. Took 45 min but then I went to start the car and it still cranks really long. Idle is fine ish. It idles 950-1000 rpm but usually it would at 700-800 rpm. The car seems fine when running but I don’t want to drive it anywhere. I have a screenshot of all my codes that it threw. Any help would be nice. I really would like to get this car back and running


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## Bob123Bob (Dec 5, 2021)

Thank you for this post! My 2.5l '07 automatic jetta was doing the same thing - 10 minutes of driving (until fully warmed up), then dies as soon as i come to a stop light, where the car needs to idle @ low RPM - it would die. The car would still crank up after ~7turns+ a little bit of gas.

This video is great at showing how to change the cable (



) . Unfortunately, I didn't have a place to do it myself, and ended up 1 hr of labor @ mechanic shop ($120) to get this 15 minute job done. Once done, the car started acting as it supposed to immediately. Even idles at the redlight @ .5k rpm, vs .8-1k prior to the fix.

P.S. If you have to drive it somewhere, once the engine is warm, and you have to come to a stop at the red light - hold break + gas to keep it above 1k rpm, this will keep the car from stalling.
P.P.S. It potentially took ~2 years for this sensor to go out. I think warning sign was engine starting after 3-4 turns. I replaced the battery, that didn't help. Once I replaced this sensor - the engine starts in 2 turns.


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## Boomer Guy (Mar 26, 2021)

It seems like most sensors start to die after the engine exceeds 100K miles. I've been replacing mine on my 2008 VW Rabbit 2.5 since I bought it over a year ago with 142K miles on it. It now has over 155K trouble free miles. I'm changing my crank position sensor during my next oil change. I think I've gotten all the ones with the bad reputation (hope I didn't just jinx myself.).


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## Bob123Bob (Dec 5, 2021)

An update on my repair: Even though replacing the sensor fixed the idling issue, my starter died a few weeks later. Once i started digging through that area of the engine, I noticed some oil pooled at the top of the engine (and, my car was leaking a little bit of oil over the years, but i didn't pay attention to it). 
It turned out that vacuum pump gasket was failing, sending one drop of oil at a time down the engine, every few days. It looks like both the starter, and the crank position sensor are both below the vacuum pump! So potentially, the leaking gasket caused the crank position sensor to start malfunctioning, and for the starter to die. Keep an eye on any oil leaks in that area of the engine, and replace the gasket if you notice any leaking oil. 
You can pick the gasket up for $40 on amazon, and its a very doable DIY, even for a novice like myself. Just follow the instructions online (note- articles online say that for automatic transmission, you have to move the transmission to get to the vacuum pump. However, there are a few videos online that show you how to replace the gasket, WITHOUT moving the tranny. I've done it. So can you). Once the vacuum pump gasket, and the starter were replaced, the car has been running like a champ.





VW 2.5L 5 Cylinder Vacuum Pump Oil Leak/ Gasket - Articles - Deutsche Auto Parts


We talk about Vacuum Pumps leaking on 2.5L 5 cylinder VW engines. This can be a common issue that requires replacing the whole vacuum pump.




www.shopdap.com





In short, if your car leaks oil from that area, replace the vacuum pump gasket before you get stranded with a broken starter (or your car starts dying at red lights). Fortunately for me, the starter died while i was parked at home.


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## Boomer Guy (Mar 26, 2021)

Bob123Bob said:


> An update on my repair: Even though replacing the sensor fixed the idling issue, my starter died a few weeks later. Once i started digging through that area of the engine, I noticed some oil pooled at the top of the engine (and, my car was leaking a little bit of oil over the years, but i didn't pay attention to it).
> It turned out that vacuum pump gasket was failing, sending one drop of oil at a time down the engine, every few days. It looks like both the starter, and the crank position sensor are both below the vacuum pump! So potentially, the leaking gasket caused the crank position sensor to start malfunctioning, and for the starter to die. Keep an eye on any oil leaks in that area of the engine, and replace the gasket if you notice any leaking oil.
> You can pick the gasket up for $40 on amazon, and its a very doable DIY, even for a novice like myself. Just follow the instructions online (note- articles online say that for automatic transmission, you have to move the transmission to get to the vacuum pump. However, there are a few videos online that show you how to replace the gasket, WITHOUT moving the tranny. I've done it. So can you). Once the vacuum pump gasket, and the starter were replaced, the car has been running like a champ.
> 
> ...


I agree. If you have a leaking vacuum pump, address the issue immediately! Note that replacing all 3 gaskets (front, back, o-ring on hose from brake booster) is a temporary fix. The gaskets may last 100K miles, but it is actually easier to just delete the vacuum pump and block the cavity with the IE Blocking Plate Kit and source the vacuum from the hose to the throttle body like I did. The vacuum pump is mechanically driven by the engine and drains some of the hp. Here is the link I followed:








DIY: 2.5L MKV Vacuum Pump Delete


Items purchased: IE plate: $73.00 (shipped) 5/16" ID fuel line (2 foot): $3.00 (local) Universal Tee: $5.00 (local) Clamps: $4.00 (local) I removed this the other night while doing a transmission swap: You can remove the pump without removing the transmission. Google search it to find the...




www.volkswagenownersclub.com





Now, I have no leaks from the vacuum pump. The brake pedal and braking performance are exactly as before. It seems to me that this "German Engineering" took something simple and made it complicated. Very little vacuum is needed for the brake booster on this small car.


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