# lightly modded 8v. is dpr adjustment necessary?



## Northfox (Jul 6, 2010)

89 fox, 1.8 8v cis-e. autotech 270, bowl blend, 2" exhaust. 

should i be worried about adjusting my fuel pressure?


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## vwturbofox (Jul 31, 2010)

Northfox said:


> 89 fox, 1.8 8v cis-e. autotech 270, bowl blend, 2" exhaust.
> 
> should i be worried about adjusting my fuel pressure?


 what rpms are redline at 7,500-8,000 then yes turn the pressure up a little check the faqs for dpr tuning and do you have the wot switch swap done?


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## Northfox (Jul 6, 2010)

6000rpm limiter, no wot switch yet. 

havin a hell of a time getting this car running right. just hesitating real bad under load and not starting worth a crap when its warm. 

changed the filter, and the pump is new. the accumulator is hiding under an inch or so of its own rust. im thinking it will be next to be replaced.


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## vwturbofox (Jul 31, 2010)

Northfox said:


> 6000rpm limiter, no wot switch yet.
> 
> havin a hell of a time getting this car running right. just hesitating real bad under load and not starting worth a crap when its warm.
> 
> changed the filter, and the pump is new. the accumulator is hiding under an inch or so of its own rust. im thinking it will be next to be replaced.


 check all you basics ignition,injectors make sure good spray pattern,vacumn leaks,electrical connections check the ground strap i have had issues with those,timing belt all good, timing? 
replace the accumulator with that much rust.make sure the cold start valve isnt leaking.check the thermo time switch.have you done a compression check?when did it start running like crap after you did something or ?


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## Northfox (Jul 6, 2010)

it started running like crap since i rebuilt the head and put an autotech 270 in it. got it timed in at 6btdc. all ignition components are new. 

as far as the fuel system is concerned, iv replaced the filter and bypassed the accumulator, but no luck yet. 

iv never checked the thermo time switch yet though. where does that guy hide?


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## vwturbofox (Jul 31, 2010)

Northfox said:


> it started running like crap since i rebuilt the head and put an autotech 270 in it. got it timed in at 6btdc. all ignition components are new.
> 
> as far as the fuel system is concerned, iv replaced the filter and bypassed the accumulator, but no luck yet.
> 
> iv never checked the thermo time switch yet though. where does that guy hide?


 Now have you checked the timing belt and is all good?have you checked the plugs what color are they?


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## Northfox (Jul 6, 2010)

black with tan tips


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## vwturbofox (Jul 31, 2010)

Northfox said:


> black with tan tips


 is it really black can you smell fuel sounds like you are running to rich can you take pics of the plugs.Unplug the thermo time switch and drive around and see if the car feels better aslo double check all you connections


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## Northfox (Jul 6, 2010)

i'll try and get pics up. 

i unplugged my thermo time switch, and it seemed to help a little. still very hesitant when i get on er, and sometimes wants to stall when i come to a stop. but when there is no load on the motor, it hesitate only at the slightest opening of the throttle, then revs up nicely.


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## vwturbofox (Jul 31, 2010)

Northfox said:


> black with tan tips





Northfox said:


> i'll try and get pics up.
> 
> i unplugged my thermo time switch, and it seemed to help a little. still very hesitant when i get on er, and sometimes wants to stall when i come to a stop. but when there is no load on the motor, it hesitate only at the slightest opening of the throttle, then revs up nicely.


 sounds to me either injectors or vacumn leak now have you checked the cold start valve not leaking.you havent messed with the airflow plate have you? check all those things


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## Northfox (Jul 6, 2010)

would you be soo kind to letting me know how i can go about checking my injectors? my shop manual is in my project car, about 30min away.


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## vwturbofox (Jul 31, 2010)

Northfox said:


> would you be soo kind to letting me know how i can go about checking my injectors? my shop manual is in my project car, about 30min away.


 The way i do it is change the fuel pump relay to come on with the key on so a horn relay works.ok so pull rubber boot off the airflow plate and the plate that lifts i clamp small vise grips on it very carefully then pull one injector out just one at a time and place in a cup and then turn the key on and pull on the airflow plate and check the spray pattern. thats the way i do it i had that issue with my fox the injectors went bad and had issues i replaced my injectors with mercedes 190e brass ones much cheaper than stock and work great :thumbup:


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## Northfox (Jul 6, 2010)

checked my injectors, and one was half assed, so i replaced it. 

still doing the exact same thing.


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## vwturbofox (Jul 31, 2010)

Northfox said:


> checked my injectors, and one was half assed, so i replaced it.
> 
> still doing the exact same thing.


 Ok thats the only things it sound like to me fuel or vacumn leak or timing wrong other wise i am lost without seeing the car run myself.just double check cause you could have missed something doing the swap.


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## Northfox (Jul 6, 2010)

could these symptoms be from a bad coil? going bad once it warms up.

the coil i replaced the og one with i bought less than a year ago. and have since put less than 50 000km, so i figured it would be working fine.

iv gone through everything time and time again, and i am positive i have no vac leaks. my injectors are spraying fine. cap and rotor are new, filter new, intank pump new.

i dont have the means of checking my fuel pressure, so that im not sure about.


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## vwturbofox (Jul 31, 2010)

Northfox said:


> could these symptoms be from a bad coil? going bad once it warms up.
> 
> the coil i replaced the og one with i bought less than a year ago. and have since put less than 50 000km, so i figured it would be working fine.
> 
> ...


could be the coil I would replace it with pertronix coil i just sold one too but use the 1.5 ohm you will feel power gain with this coil in the higher rpms i use now 0.6 ohm or you can use msd but these coils have built in resistance or you could use stock up to you.

http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/40000_volt.aspx


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## Northfox (Jul 6, 2010)

bought a brand new bosch coil today. and it made a bit of a difference, but didnt solve my problem.

i know the cap, rotor, and wires are all new. but im thinking maybe i fouled these plugs badly when i was having a hard time starting it. at least im hoping its something ignition related.

also, i took it for a short drive after it idled up to temp, and checked my plugs after. they looked a bit fouled, but still tan tips. tried to restart the car 10min later, and it was doing the same crap. fire it up, and it would struggle to stay alive. check my plugs, black as night, but dry.

left the car for an hour and got it to fire up, roughly at first, then it started to idle better. actually revved up good once it stopped hesitating. so i started pulling plug wires while maintaining idle, and it made little difference.


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## vwturbofox (Jul 31, 2010)

Northfox said:


> bought a brand new bosch coil today. and it made a bit of a difference, but didnt solve my problem.
> 
> i know the cap, rotor, and wires are all new. but im thinking maybe i fouled these plugs badly when i was having a hard time starting it. at least im hoping its something ignition related.
> 
> ...


Plugs are super cheap only use oem.have you checked to see if the cold start valve is leaking or faulty wire trying unpluging the wire to it and see if that helps


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## Northfox (Jul 6, 2010)

tried it unplugged, no difference. how do i check to make sure my it isnt faulty?

gonna buy some new plugs tomorrow. iv always used champion coppers in the past, with satisfactory results.


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## ziddey (Apr 16, 2006)

i skimmed the thread. have you checked your mixture yet, either by checking current through the dpr, or o2 sensor output with a voltmeter? coils are rare to fail. a 270 cam shouldn't need any changes to the mixture, but it's always good to see where your mixture is at. from there, either you hunt after any possible vacuum leaks, or you adjust it and see what that does. there is also actual dpr adjustment, but that's to be saved until the car is actually running well.


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## Northfox (Jul 6, 2010)

turns out the ground that goes on my exhaust manifold was coming a bit loose. it was still intact, just loose enough for me to pull one of the wires out. replaced it, and no more problems.

i am soo stoked, yet soo pissed right now. a learning lesson for future projects.

thanks again to all who helped me out through this.

eace:


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## vwturbofox (Jul 31, 2010)

Northfox said:


> turns out the ground that goes on my exhaust manifold was coming a bit loose. it was still intact, just loose enough for me to pull one of the wires out. replaced it, and no more problems.
> 
> i am soo stoked, yet soo pissed right now. a learning lesson for future projects.
> 
> ...


What wires are we talking about on the exhaust mainfold o2 sensor or you talking about the wires on the intake?thats good news you solved the issue.:thumbup:


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## ziddey (Apr 16, 2006)

I'm guessing you mean intake manifold? Without those grounds, perhaps you weren't getting current through the DPR


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## Northfox (Jul 6, 2010)

nope, it was bolted to the exhaust mani.:screwy:

side note, car is running real good. just need to tune that dpr and get a wot wired up


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## ziddey (Apr 16, 2006)

?!?!?!?!


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## Northfox (Jul 6, 2010)

ya, it never really caught my eye before. my last 3 vws have been cis basic or carb, so im figurin out this cise as i go along.


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## ziddey (Apr 16, 2006)

are you sure it's supposed to connect to the exhaust manifold? it gets mighty hot.. what wires are they?


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## Northfox (Jul 6, 2010)

im not sure if thats where its supposed to be, but thats where i pulled it off of.

i moved to the connection onto the intake manifold and it seems to be running just fine right now.


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