# Replacing Hard Brake Lines on Mk2, help!



## wintrode (Aug 2, 2001)

Anyone ever replaced their hard brake lines? My fittings are all corroded and stripped and I need to replace all of the lines. Are the flarings on the VW lines the same standard double flared style used on most American cars or do they use something different? Where can I can I pick up the brake line stock, ends, flaring tool and bending tool cheap? 
Anyone have any tips or stuff to avoid? 
Thanks. - -MW


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## lnoriel (Jul 31, 2000)

*Re: Replacing Hard Brake Lines on Mk2, help! (wintrode)*

I am currently doing this on my A2 Golf. I converted the rears to Disc brakes and I have to plumb to the rear. 
I was advised by others against bending virgin stock and told to get the pieces from a junkyard. 
I did this on my VW Caddy and it worked fine. I removed the lines myself taking care not to strip the ends.


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## Evolution Sports (Aug 30, 2000)

*Re: Replacing Hard Brake Lines on Mk2, help! (wintrode)*

These lines fittings and flairs are metric, where as American Cars use SAE.
The Lines and Fittings can be purchased through your VW dealer.
Typically they will come as an 8' or 10' line section with two fittings and factory flairs.
For the perfect flairs you need the VW specialty tool. Normally, I have a dealer tech friend stop by with the tool, for a soda. As the tool kit is super expensive for the amount of times you'll use it.
It is possible to do with a Sears type tool. Here's the trick... Use a little brake fluid to lube the flairing on the tool when compressing and only do the second step of the flair about half way. Then use an extra, soft line fitting (female) and tighten the fittings together. This will give the final shape of the metric VW.
It takes some p&p, but once you get the hang of it, they'll turn out just fine. 
Hope that helps.
Matt


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## Evolution Sports (Aug 30, 2000)

Sorry there is one more option.....
Try to find a good used set at a yard.... typically difficult.
Matt


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## wintrode (Aug 2, 2001)

*Re: Replacing Hard Brake Lines on Mk2, help! (Evolution Sports)*

Thanks for the responses. I just purchased a bubble flaring tool, line cutter and bending tool, so we will see how it goes this weekend. Wish me luck!


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## DgenR8 (Nov 17, 1999)

*Re: Replacing Hard Brake Lines on Mk2, help! (wintrode)*

Tell us how that bubble flairing tool works out. I'm replacing my front lines this week. I might buy one myself.
I have seen two flaring tools so far. The most common is the Sears-type flairing tool for about $20. It might work for bubble ends like the above post said. They also sell a more complicated tool specifically for bubble ends. They had this in the NAPA catalog for $102.
NAPA sells brake line in various lengths. It's just 3/16" line with the 11mm metric flair nut. They are not exactly the length of the stock lines, but they don't need to be I guess. I called my VW dealer and they said they don't flair their own line (at least at that location). They call up NAPA and get a length that is close then do the bending themselves.
If you do buy line from a junkyard, make sure to check them for corrosion. You don't want rusty bits making their way to your piston seals. At least flush them out well with brake fluid before you install.


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## wintrode (Aug 2, 2001)

*Re: Replacing Hard Brake Lines on Mk2, help! (DgenR8)*

The brake job went pretty well. The fittings on the front two hard lines were stripped, so I pulled out the lines, cut off the stripped fittings, put on some new/used fittings that I had, and flared them with the bubble flaring tool.
The flaring tool is straight forward to use, just make sure that you clamp down on the part that secures the tube in the jig, or else you'll have problems with the pipe slipping out. Other than that it is pretty straight forward to use, although I would recommend you have a vice, or some way to secure the jig. Here's the kit that I got from JCWhitney. 
(Catalog Part# 13zx5704x, $54.99) 








The rest of the brakes went well also. 
The entire brake and suspension job took approximately 36 hours to complete with two people working at a somewhat leisurely pace. Here's all that I did for it:
*Front Brakes -* Replaced the front carriers, calipers, wheel bearings, hubs, discs and pads. Removed the stripped hard line fittings and flared new ones in their place, and fitted Autotech stainless brake lines to the calipers.
*Front Suspension -* Removed the top part of the existing strut tower (yeah sawzall and angle grinder!!) to make it flat across the top. Fitted Eurosport camber plates and spacers with H&R coilovers (from Virtual World - only $1095). No bushings now in the front suspension, all hard mounts







.
*Rear Brakes -* Replaced rear calipers, bearings, rotors/hubs and pads. Fitted stainless steel lines.
*Rear Suspension -* Removed the rubber suspension bushings and replaced with poly bushings from Eurosport, and H&R coilovers.
*Emergency Brake Cables -* Replaced both cables relatively easily after I figured out that you didn't want to pull out the brass tube that goes through the floor







.
*General Brake System -* Replaced the vacuum booster (or brake servo) and master cylinder. Notes - If you have the ratcheting closed end wrenches, they are SOOOO useful in removing the vacuum booster, I didn't but they are definitely on the Christmas list now!
All in all it was slightly difficult due to the corrosion on the brake lines and fittings, but it was very rewarding and has totally changed the personality of the car. Now I just have to get it aligned (waaaay too much toe at this point), and it is going to be a blast. - -MW










[Modified by wintrode, 1:07 PM 12-4-2001]


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