# Projet Fredybender V2.1 : NA with an attitude for the track... A sister for Euclid



## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

After buying a second and a third Scirocco mk1 in the same week, I think that its time to put all my different aspiring project onto one platform;

I present to you Dagomar...

On the menu, a full track day car, with all necessary goodies for :laugh:

Just wanted to start this up, more to come, very soon, I have to go to the machine shop at lunch; Big valves getting installed in the head this week, but I have my saying on specifics, about how they will do it


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## echassin (Dec 28, 2005)

Oh my, tsk tsk; a veteran of these forums starting a new thread

WITHOUT ANY PICS!


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## DKScirocco (Sep 30, 2003)

:facepalm::facepalm::facepalm:

:laugh:


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## rod_knock (Oct 4, 2010)

:facepalm:


opcorn:


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## MrPill (Jul 3, 2006)

opcorn:


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## punchbug (Jul 15, 2000)

MrPill said:


> opcorn:


^what he said.


AND 

:banghead::banghead:THIS THREAD IS WORTHLESS WITH NO PICTURES!!!!:banghead::banghead::laugh:


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## Just Kevin (Jan 10, 2010)

punchbug said:


> ^what he said.
> 
> 
> AND
> ...


I've got to agree with them Fred...I'm on the edge of my seat in anticipation.


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## Chris16vRocco (Apr 30, 2006)

Just Kevin said:


> I've got to agree with them Fred...I'm on the edge of my seat in anticipation.


[Monster Truck promoter]You paid for the whole seat.......*but you'll only need THE EDGE!!....*[/Monster Truck promoter]


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## scirocco*joe (Feb 23, 2002)

:bs:

That's what I say when I see no pics.

:laugh:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Jeez!
You post up, and a few hours later its mayhem if no pics! :laugh::laugh::laugh:

Chronological chain of events;

1- At one point during summer (Between VagKraft & H20) a small brain fart including engine about Euclid, was assessed.

2-Started to acquire some of the said needed parts just for an "upgrade engine build for Euclid"

3- Yeah right!

4-Saw 3 different sightings of double sided rainbows since September; Kathy you know you are the culprit!

5- Started entertaining a true track day project...

6- Bought a 78 from Smith Falls Ontario last week, with the best intentions to make this a great track car...

7- Saw the car, after driving about 7 hours to get it, saw the rust, and more rust... Bought it anyways...

8- Brought the car to my house, and started taking it apart, bit by bit, and leaving nothing but rust for the crushers 
Got everything I could out of the car (see pics)

9- Contacted Larry in NH, North of Boston for his shell for sale

10- Drove 3 times to export control in NY, to try to buy the car

11- Got export control approval, to buy Larry's 80

12- Rented a trailer, and brought her back, ready to get the "good stuff"

13- got back from NH yesterday night around 2:30 am


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

The pics:

Bought second rocco with pics only:









Ended up looking like this:

























Cut it up in pieces, and the sent out Euclid for winter 
Got the other one in : Thanks Larry!

















Big valve kit:








More specs coming soon...

Rule #1 complied with...


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## punchbug (Jul 15, 2000)

fredybender said:


> Jeez!
> You post up, and a few hours later its mayhem if no pics! :laugh::laugh::laugh:
> 
> 
> ...


re #4: "Why are there so many...songs about rainbows? And what's on the other side..." (and please excuse Kermit's agents for ever letting him sing that with Justin Timberlake) Yeah, those things. I dread ever seeing them...they are nothing but trouble :laugh: Three eh? Well, for me anyway, I see them on the day of title transfer, and I only get them for running cars. So *maybe* you're not done yet, though you think you might be....have you had any odd dreams lately...... No reason....just asking......

re #7: That one is almost as bad as the one Chris Canfield posted up, and they both make my 80 look real good.


re#10: I'm pro-star at that process now but it sure is a pain if you are a normal person with a job and such. The new one looks good, but it should be more green.....right Kevin? :laugh:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

This is what the river blue 79 looked like yesterday...
I kept almost everything sheet metal that was good.

Never knew a car could be so small...

















Now Euclid is sleeping for winter, with a lot of toys around it...No choice Dagomar is now taking the garage space for the winter build...


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## echassin (Dec 28, 2005)

fredybender said:


> Jeez!
> You post up, and a few hours later its mayhem if no pics! :laugh::laugh::laugh:
> got back from NH yesterday night around 2:30 am, which left me several hours to post pics, so I have no excuse


Fixed that for ya 

Can't wait to see this come together :thumbup:


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## Just Kevin (Jan 10, 2010)

Hmm, Green eh, yup, gotta love the green :laugh: What was it you said Cathy about Cedar trees in a "Glenn"?


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## punchbug (Jul 15, 2000)

Just Kevin said:


> Hmm, Green eh, yup, gotta love the green :laugh: What was it you said Cathy about Cedar trees in a "Glenn"?


Oh Kev, that message was not intended for you, unless you added a second cedar to your grove. But I think I know where that glenn is moving to on a map....and if you go to Cincy, I bet it will relocate there temporarily. 

And Fredy, that car sure did get small! I'm using my rotted River Blue as a Scirocco shaped storage cabinet!


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## Just Kevin (Jan 10, 2010)

punchbug said:


> Oh Kev, that message was not intended for you, unless you added a second cedar to your grove. But I think I know where that glenn is moving to on a map....and if you go to Cincy, I bet it will relocate there temporarily.
> 
> And Fredy, that car sure did get small! I'm using my rotted River Blue as a Scirocco shaped storage cabinet!


Ya I know Cathy, I was just tying into the whole Green Rules thing thats all. You know how biased I am. Believe me, I was more than tempted when I saw Glenn was looking for a new home, especially for that price! But two in my stable is more than enough for me.


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## punchbug (Jul 15, 2000)

No worries. If Glenn is going where I *think* he is, he will displace a very nice 16V. We cannot be selfish, everyone needs a green MkI. And Konomi will miss him a lot I'm sure. Maybe Fredy's third running car is that 16V. Who knows? All things for a reason. Three double rainbows eh Fredy? Damn, that's a challenge. After Euclid, I'm sure you can manage it!


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## scirocco*joe (Feb 23, 2002)

:sly:


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## punchbug (Jul 15, 2000)

scirocco*joe said:


> :sly:






:sly: the sequel....

:laugh:


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## LT1M21Stingray (Sep 14, 2006)

punchbug said:


> :sly: the sequel....
> 
> :laugh:


:screwy:

:beer:


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## punchbug (Jul 15, 2000)

Mtl-Marc said:


> :screwy:
> 
> :beer:


:wave:

:sly:



:beer:

:thumbup: 

now back to opcorn:


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## Chris16vRocco (Apr 30, 2006)

Wow, we have really derailed this thread. Sorry Fred.

:facepalm:


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## LT1M21Stingray (Sep 14, 2006)

punchbug said:


> :wave:
> 
> :sly:
> 
> ...


opcorn:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

:laugh:


:laugh:


:laugh:


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## punchbug (Jul 15, 2000)

Chris16vRocco said:


> Wow, we have really derailed this thread. Sorry Fred.
> 
> :facepalm:


It's not derailed, it's just sitting on a siding while we discuss the topic of "getting a new MkI" in more general, brader terms, one that includes new American homes for MkIs as well. I'm sure that Fredy will be amazing us with more of his mad skilz shortly...he's not one to sit around on a projet!

Now back to opcorn:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

I know there are no pics, but I guess there will be a pic whoring session soon.

Block is getting bored to 84mm it's presently in the machine shop.
Got my 84mm Wossners on Thursday; need to do some calculations for comp. height & valve interference dimensions.

I also ordered the 100 feet of DOM 1-3/4 tubing for the roll cage.
First thing, will be to start the roll cage.

Just need to find a mandrel bender 
Saw a few models, but its kind of exaggerated to buy this for a one time project.

Three of us are building roll cages, so we will do the "barn building" thing with alll 3 cars 

More coming soon!


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Fred = OCD...
(Its OK, knowing this, is about 80% of treatment  )

So first;
Dagomar is inside, while Euclid is out in boarding school...

Engine stuff:
Big valves from TT (supertech & Ferrera) are finding their way into the 051 head:
I brought all the supplies to the machine shop, but told them to call me when the seats would be in, so I could do my stuff!

Oversized valve seats before porting:









Oversized valve seat AFTER porting 









More detailed pictures of poring on the head:

























Guess what's going into those heads? 










Also working on the "Chassis" side...


My back yard, as we speak:









A bit of weight taken off...
I would guestimate this as about a diet of 40 lbs per door ...

















More coming soon, especially on the engine...


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## rod_knock (Oct 4, 2010)

I love this thread oh so much right now.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Order is in for 100' of DOM 1-3/4" X0.095"
I also bought these for making my roll cage:






And also one of these:


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## rod_knock (Oct 4, 2010)

can you adopt me?


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## scirocco*joe (Feb 23, 2002)

opcorn:

All of this goodness is making me want to build an engine. Tonight. 

:thumbup:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Couldn't sleep passed 4:00AM...
So got up and got a few things planned; measured the amount of material needed.
This is what the next step is after the engine is finished (within a few weeks)


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## Muffler Bearing (Apr 4, 2004)

i should check out the rocco forums more often.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Updates, yeah, yeah... I know, no Pics...

K bar on the way; thanks Mr Bee!
Bilstein on the way; thanks Shindul
Megajolt distributorless ignition, with programmable 3d mappping & MAP input: Check
VDO dash gages: check
5 point seat belts ; Check
ARP engine hardware; Check
Poly engine & suspension kit; Check
H&R race springs; Check
4-2-1 race headers; check
Camber plates; check
All O.E. stuff, such as driveshafts, ball joints, A-arms, engine gaskets, water pupm, oil pump, discs, etc...
ALL of them: Check!

Will post pics of the Christmas tree


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## theenico (Nov 12, 2003)

Subscribed :thumbup:

Not to whizz in any one's cornflakes but, based on the Production and GT rule sets for SCCA cages for a car of this weight, 1.5 X .095 wall DOM tubing is all you need. With that said, 1.75 X .095 is a negligible increase in weight.

Carry on. This will be sweet.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Pic whoring session coming...
Just parts, and a few teadious rendering of former glory...
opcorn:


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## Grig85 (Feb 11, 2006)

I am in for this


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## scirocco*joe (Feb 23, 2002)

Patiently awaiting the pic whoring.

opcorn:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Battery tray, injection bracket, and side for the rear parcel shelf, drilled the spot welds, and they're off...
Today, sandblasted the rear axle, rear brake baking plates, axle pivots, and reat strut spring top.
Primered everything, and then layed a coat of gloss black (I wish I would have the time and money to have them powdercoated, but its a race car...) It will be painted and cleaned up, nonetheless.

I remembered how much fun it is to take the front spindles apart, especially the front wheel bearing. All is appart, except for the front strut insert threaded top: I used a 24 inch pipe wrench, and the workbench was starting to rip appart under the vise... So I heated it up a few times with a propane torch, still won't budge. I put some liquid wrench in there, and I'll wait for a day or two, before going at it again.

I want to sandblast everything; the struts, caps, spindle, hub, etc...
A nice coat of primer and paint, to make it nice and enjoyable to work on, at the track.

On to some pic whoring as previously mentionned 


In this pic, we can see: 
5 point seatbelts, ARP head studs, Bilstein Sport shocks, Edis 4 kit for distributorless ignition (Megajolt Jr to be here soon), Short shift kit, Tube bender for the roll cage, and the tube notcher, also for the roll cage. 









Recent acquisition; 10 gallon sandblaster (Hope my neighbors don't freak out too much  )









OEM goodnes; tie rod, ball joints, lower control arms, all new pumps, seals, bearings, etc...









Spring porn; H&R Race kit :laugh:









Shine racing service camber plates. Not new, but thats OK! (notice the nice stress bar)










ARP head studs, 800lbs pressure plate










Diesel crankshaft machined, lightened, and balanced










Can anyone say 14X8's  Basset racing wheels, with 4" backspacing for the rear, and 4.750" for the front. BTW, I'm picking up my 225-50-14 RA1's on monday 










K-bar (thanks Mr Bee!) More Bilstein sport goodness (rear), 100mm driveshaft (soon to be machined for the Mk1 spindles)










New gas tank










Zimmerman cross drilled 10.1's










Poly kit (I know its not the best, but hey, it might not look like it, but I'm on a budget!)









Some of todays work: Notice the square tubing welded on in the center; I have some rod-ends, and aluminum tubing to triangulate the rear beam. The square tubing is prepped with drilled & tap holes, to anchor the rod end tubes...


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## Grig85 (Feb 11, 2006)

Sick stash!


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Finally some parts are finding their way on the car...
I had planned for the roll cage to be started, but the DOM tubing is only getting delivered on wednesday, and we're 3 guys building cages in our cars. I will help out on the 2 other builds, and they will do the same for me. We will be starting on a 79 rabbit this week end.

Still have some shopping to do, but I got enough parts to keep me busy for a while...

I will be getting my block & my head from the machine shop tomorrow, all is done!

Pics to come on the engine, soon!

p4c


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Its engine time!
This is always one of my favorite time, during projects...

All parts back from the machine shop
Nice little 16V head with all kinds of goodies!

















Here's a little pic that shows well the intake passage, with the small 5.5mm intake vale stem, and the smaller & shorter cross section of the guide, and the taper it has instead of being "blunt"









Bloc prep for paint:

















Bloc painted:










Shop pic; overview of engine components 










This picture shows well the #2 cylinder crank modification to accept the diesel crank in the OBD1 ABA; oil squirter clearance, and needed counterweight modification (not shown in pic)











Crank install, and dry fitting, including thrust bearings end play verification


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## scirocco*joe (Feb 23, 2002)

^^Sh*t's dirty.  :thumbup:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Space for parts is now at a premium in here...
So I thought that my my wheels & tires would blend in my son's room, the way its decorated 
They actually look good in there!


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## MrPill (Jul 3, 2006)

Yeah, maybe too good. I hope you get them back when you need them!
-Dan


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

^ :thumbup: I Hope I will !

Engine mounts, struts, spindles, and spring perch all sandblasted, and now painted...


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

I helped out a friend with a Mk1 golf, building a certifiable 8 pt roll cage on the week end, looks good! My car is up next, and if the stars line up OK, the week end of December 20th is the "roll cage week end" for Dagomar.

I have since finished up a few tidbits here & there, but mostly attacked the engine, and the calculations of compression height, deck clearance, valve clearance, head CC's, piston dome CC's, compression ratio according to which fuel to run, all based on the CC's, and needed head gasket thickness, Max connecting rod load, for reaching the max RPM taking in consideration Max HP @ X RPM ... Also calculating dynamic compression with cam timing. 

Interesting enough, the big valve kit from TT, when installed, has increased the combustion chamber to 50cc's from the stock 43 CC's usually encountered; this can be explained by the height of the valve faces changing thus incresing volume, and also the clearancing of the new seats in the chamber has also incresed volume of the combustion chamber.

So for all you guys & gals out there taking a look at a big valve kit, if you increase your combustion chamber volume by that much, the HP gains will NEVER be seen, if the true to life, measured compression ratio is not calculated, and adjusted either with pistons, or shaving head/ block and adding gasket thickness!

I will have a 2.97mm thick head gasket, which will give me a 13.05 STATIC compression ratio with my Wossner ABF pistons rated at 12.4 compression. (Stock is 1.6mm, but I have a TD crank that makes the piston go 1.35mm higher)
this equates to 220 psi at the end of the compression stroke (Avgas 100LL is rated for 220  )
This in turn, should yield interesting power numbers... But I might need a diesel starter 

I will be posting pics, soon, as I am machining some components; for taking off weight on internal moving parts


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## thatGTIguy (Feb 2, 2010)

on pins and needles....


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## scirocco*joe (Feb 23, 2002)

Fred, I love the thorough nature of your builds. :thumbup:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Thanks Joe!
Updates:

I came home tonight, and started final assembly of the engine...
SNAFU

I was listening to some tunes, while taking my time, and assembling very nice new and machined components. I put the rings on the pistons, carefully installed the rod bearings, torqued the main crank caps with new brearings, installed the new pistons in the bores, lined everything up made my own head gasket thickness, and machined some locating pins for the head & block.
all was great, the crank would turn freeley, as smooth as peanut butter...

Torqued the head down, and crank wouldn't move any more... 
Good thing I got ARP studs, this time, because I would have gone through at least 3 set of head bolts tonight, not including the rod bolts that I need to undo...

I have interference at the squish line between piston & head, I would rate it at about .002"
I will be taking out my pistons, machining them, and re-doing all my CC calculations for both head & pistons. I didn't come this far, just to have an engine that will fail...

A few pics...


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## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

subscribed!!


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

I took the engine apart again;
I got that the squish band interferes with piston travel, so I decided to do something about it.
Got my courage together, and put them in my 4 jaw chuck to machine my new Wossner pistons...
I would say that the first piston must have taken me an hour and a half, to get it within a couple of tenths ( ie: 0.0001") on the idicator, on run out and flatness.

I then machined them down with the same angle, but taking off about 0.043" on the diameter, at 45 degrees.

I then re-installed my pistons, to take the CC readings once more, to keep my dynamic compression ration, to the value I require... (this equates to 220psi)

Calculations to be done tomorrow, to compensate head gasket thickness once again.

p4c


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## scirocco*joe (Feb 23, 2002)

You're a stronger man than I, Fred. Machining pistons? Out of my comfort zone. But cheers to you!


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## Roc'N'Green (Apr 1, 2010)

Dam fred you got some cojones...

I am sure it will all work out :thumbup:


Oh and saw some weber 48's on ebay just thought i would link em up for ya in case you didn't see them

http://frame.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?CompareItems

No luck finding any Dell 48's though, those would be a real prize.


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## rod_knock (Oct 4, 2010)

mk3 starter is stronger and smaller than a diesel, btw.


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## cholland_ (Apr 12, 2006)

rod_knock said:


> mk3 starter is stronger and smaller than a diesel, btw.


The lightest, and stronger than a standard 020 starter, but a diesel's the strongest you can get (they've gotta turn some pretty high compression ratios, remember).

Freddy, your dedication is ridiculous. Machining brand new pistons? :screwy:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Did a few things chassis wise. Its good to leave engine stuff, and spread efforts around.
Less probable of screwing up... And I guess you can call those "breaks"

Triangulated the rear axle beam with hem joints.


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## thatGTIguy (Feb 2, 2010)

fredybender said:


> Did a few things chassis wise. Its good to leave engine stuff, and spread efforts around.
> Less probable of screwing up... And I guess you can call those "breaks"
> 
> Triangulated the rear axle beam with hem joints.



you know that doesn't sound like a bad idea... have you done this before? do you think it will make a difference?


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## LT1M21Stingray (Sep 14, 2006)

thatGTIguy said:


> you know that doesn't sound like a bad idea... have you done this before? do you think it will make a difference?


Read about it.

Great progress. :thumbup::beer:


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## echassin (Dec 28, 2005)

Top notch build right gere, mad skills :thumbup:!


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

echassin said:


> Top notch build right *gear*, mad skills :thumbup:!


Thanks Eric, fixed it for you


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## echassin (Dec 28, 2005)

echassin said:


> Top notch build righcheer, mad skills :thumbup:!


*Blushes*

Fixed it gud.


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## 81sciroccorelived (Feb 1, 2009)

*just tuned in!*

Hey Fred, 

Great to see the 80S coming to life in a great home!! I am tuning in more often. So good it did not fall off that tiny rickety trailer on the way from New Hampshire!!! 
Keep up the great work. I need to start on my 81 soon, you are the motivator!


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Thanks Larry, 
I have just put in my order for the Berg cup type flares, and rear quarter panels. 
Merry X-mas present from me, to me! 
Got them from Precision Motorsports in Ma. 
Great guy to deal with! 

The front fenders are one piece, all fiberglass gel-coated, and the rear quarter panels, start from the bottom of the rear window, all the way to the bottom, and the rear. 

I will be doing less body work / repairs, than I thought with those body parts on their way... 
Scheduled dilevery, a few days before X-mas...:biggrinsanta::biggrinsanta:


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## 8716vrocco (Feb 12, 2001)

What a sick build :thumbup:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

A few updates; 
Next saturday, the car will be going to get a full 8 point roll cage. 
I will be bringing my camera ... 

Until then, I had to make it a rolling chassis, so I put back an old set of rear shocks, since one of my rear Bilstein was on back order. I will leave those on there, until the car is painted. 

A few things: 
I have finished doing the most of the engine; windage tray, oil pump, intermediate shaft, timing pulleys, water pump, and made a block off plate for the crank sensor hole too. Oil pan is on. 


















I also doweked the main crank pulley, as I have seen horror stories on the TD cranks with just the keyway slot... 

Drilled a hole in the pulley: 









Then with a transfer punch, located the hole on the crank 









This is the pulley into place. The large washer sits on top of the pressed pin afterwords. 









Since I got the hole rear beam into place, I wanted to mock up where the tire would poke to... 
Perfect fit for the 3" flares on order! 

















Mocked up my brakes with the 10.1 Zimmerman's, new calipers, and my 16V carriers I had stashed from my previous build. 









Front A arms assembled with the new bushings & ball joints 









HD clutch (800lbs) , with very light flywheel is assembled without the ACT 6 pucks solid center; I will be bringing it to get balanced tomorrow. 









When you install a lot of new parts, you have a lot of boxes to recycle! 









I have also started to install my camber plates! 













Last but not least, my valve cover... Shaved black wrinkle finish!


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## Chris16vRocco (Apr 30, 2006)

opcorn:


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## rod_knock (Oct 4, 2010)

LOVE IT. 


Still confused why you went with a higher backspacing in the rear....


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

rod_knock said:


> LOVE IT.
> 
> 
> Still confused why you went with a higher backspacing in the rear....


 The opposite of what you said... 
4.75 backspacing in front and 4" in the back


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## rod_knock (Oct 4, 2010)

fredybender said:


> The opposite of what you said...
> 4.75 backspacing in front and 4" in the back


 Oh, even better.  I must have misread, horribly.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Painted & shaved valve cover installed, and I also finished machining all the components for my "distributor delete" I jsut got my clutch assembly back from balancing


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## California 16v (Jul 20, 2008)

:thumbup: loving that valve cover  

I look forward to all your updates :snowcool:


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## rod_knock (Oct 4, 2010)

love the work, but isn't it better to balance the crank, clutch assembly and any pulleys attached to the crank as one assembly?


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

rod_knock said:


> love the work, but isn't it better to balance the crank, clutch assembly and any pulleys attached to the crank as one assembly?


 That idea is probably better, for having a perfectly balanced assembly, but on what part of the assembly (axial) would you remove the weight? 
As far as with the pulleys, Its not a bad idea, but its the first time I hear about his. 
And to top it off, I don't even know which pulleys I will be using, as I need to find a small alternator, and machine some brackets... 

But taking everything in consideration, I have the following balanced individually, so the assembly of its parts, should be well within acceptable tolerances 
Pistons (0.1g) 
Con rods(0.1g) 
Crank (no spec from crank place, but very competent) 
Clutch assembly (0.3g) 

Fred


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## rod_knock (Oct 4, 2010)

Just something I had spoken to Collin over at TT about a while back ago when I was playing with a 1.6.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Roll cage is finished; 17 hours on saturday, and about 10 today...
Not a full 17 hours, as I attended a friends funeral from 9-12...

p4c


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## Monster8V (Dec 23, 2000)

Im not sure of these pics represent the finished cage or not, but it looks like you have omitted the bar that runs from the top of the main hoop, over the dirvers head to the bottom of the main hoop drivers side. 

Picss from my first cage build:


























Overall it depends on what you plan to do with the car, but if you are going to build a cage, build it so its spec legal in the event you decide to run with NASA or the SCCA. (apologies if you have already disclosed the intent in the thread, havent read it all.) 

Car looks good tho!


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

This is only going to be a track day toy.
It seems that here in Canada, CARS, is only approving FIA roll cages since 2008.
The basis of the fully approved FIA rulebook have been applied, but a few more braces would be needed.
Since I was in a "borrowed space" for the week end build, translates into limited time, thus simplifying the build.
For the main hoop brace, my triangulation is done in the two aft braces going to the rear strut towers; to have it FIA legal, it would have been to make an "X" , instead of just having one diagonal brace.
The principle of that bar that you have, but I don't, is to triangulate the main hoop. (which is done by the aft triangulation for me).

Also, the way they are, the front strut braces are NOT legal, but I really wanted them for chassis strengthening

For the door hoops, it looks like you bent in 2D; Did the fact of having over 100mm between car's sheet metal and hoop, made you comply with installing gussets?


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## Monster8V (Dec 23, 2000)

I gotcha. I built mine to be as minimal (light weight) as possible and still legal inder the NASA CCR. I couldnt add gussets or otherwise tie the cage into the chassis or it would cost more points for the series I race in. The rules changed for this year so I can do a bit more with the cage to the chassis. 

FIA loves to add bars, everywhere. 

That car got wrecked in a nose over tail rollover at Buttonwillow 4 years ago. Everything on that car was bent yet the cage held. Only thing im doing different on the new cage (another MK-I Scirocco) is building the drivers side like the nascar style door bars. (extending into the door.) That will give be a little more quench area in the event of a drivers side impact. But mostly, after having driven in several different cars with that style door bar, I find it extensively easier to get in and out of the car. (especially on a test weekend where your in and out of the car 25 times a day. OMG!) 

I had the same delima. I had to get the car done over the course of a weekend at my work so the downtubes werent shaped exactly how I wanted them but it was a legal, safe cage. 

Well, you say this is a track day toy now, but at some point you will find a nich for it to compete in! LOL!! 

Loving the build, keep posting! (and im glad im not the only moron building (another) a Scirocco track car!) 
My progress:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Thanks for posting up your track car ventures; I'm also happy to see someone else into making Mk1 Rocco's into track inclined vehicles...
I just love the faces of the $30K + newer track car owners, look at you, when you're passing them! 
(re; FSI GTI vs my street Rocco last summer) 
I can only anticipate next year


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Things are starting to have a better pace now...

I prepped the engine compartment with Scotch brite.
Bought a HVLP spray gun.
Bought all the paint supplies (Urethane diamond silver metalic L97A)
The metalic is hard to place properly, but I'm learning, and its only the engine bay 
Next step is prepping the interior, and priming the tubes...

p4c


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## toy_vw (Feb 11, 2006)

man...I cant wait for this canada day weekend again (2011) this time I'll bring the rocco and learn some french so I can hang with you guys and not look like a tool...

good build man...no one ever suspects scirocco's...we are like butterflys


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

toy_vw said:


> man...I cant wait for this canada day weekend again (2011) this time I'll bring the rocco and learn some french so I can hang with you guys and not look like a tool...
> 
> good build man...no one ever suspects scirocco's...we are like butterflys


You left only a few moments after I got to the meet...
You can hang around with us anytime, and I will be glad to be the translator 
If all goes well, I know its a track only car, but I will be the proud owner of two silver Roccos that _might_ share the privilege of going on the streets...
If that is the case, Dagomar should be present at that meet


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Steering rack completely disassembled cleaned up, re-greased, adjusted the rack pre-load.
Then installed it with the new tie-rods, with one poly mount, and the second mount, a solid Neuspeed aluminum mount.

Also one side is fitted with the camber plate. I mocked up the complete assembly with my new parts, so I could adjust / fit how the strut mated with the spherical bearing of the camber plate.

Like ususal, I'm a pic whore!


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

This is howw I mounted the Shine racing camber plates:
I machined 4140 steel washers of the largest diameter possible, without having interference with the strut tower shapes & bosses.
M6 socket head cap screws grade 12.9 hold them into place.
photo from the underside:


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## rod_knock (Oct 4, 2010)

I know that'll hold, but still not a fan. Since you have access to fabrication nonsense, why didn't you make a ring (backing plate) that was drilled for all the bolts?


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

rod_knock said:


> I know that'll hold, but still not a fan. Since you have access to fabrication nonsense, why didn't you make a ring (backing plate) that was drilled for all the bolts?


My lathe doesn't have enough swing for my part-off to clear that diameter...
I thought about it too...


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## rod_knock (Oct 4, 2010)

cut two C's out of plate and weld together? Cut 4 90's and weld?

There are ways around it to wast the least amount of material. I just like making things overkill, speciially for a track car.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Thanks for your suggestions, but I'm happy with my decisions on how to build it!

Edit:
Take a look of how the Shine Racing camber plate is made;
The bottom of the washers on the underside are pulling upwards with the weight of the car.

Now take this into consideration: The weak point would be the 3 M10 studs, acting in tension on the upper part of the camber plates; for me, that would be the weak link. And in this case, what would be the purpose of making only one link bullet proof, if the link right next to it, would be the weak one...

I have my ideas on how to improve SRS camber plates, but they have been around for a while, and I consider myself in a good enough position, to stand behind any engineering decisions I make.
Voila!
Fred


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## rod_knock (Oct 4, 2010)

Oh, don't get me wrong, I think that'll do just fine, and I wasn't criticizing your work. Thoroughly enjoying your build, just was curious as to why washers instead of a backing plate. 


Keep the good stuff coming :thumbup:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Instead of hitting the stores for boxing day, I decided to tackle the Weber DCOE 45's;
On the menu (litterally, because I had to do this on the dining room table, as the shop is overcrowded, and no space is available, and I do need a very clean workspace to do this in...)
All new seals
New needle valve
New mains 160
New Emulsion tube F2
New air jet 210
New idle jet 55F9
New Venturi's (40 is the biggest one available for the 45's, so I'm border line with those carbs, for the power that will be produced  )
Re-adjusting float height
Etc...

As you can see in the second and third picture, I even ground down the butterfly screws, to reduce air resistance... They say quality of workmanship is in the details... 

Pics:


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## 81type53 (Jun 2, 2008)

*Carbs*

Quick question on the Webers, why the giant venturis?? Also, don't forget to safety wire the aux. venturis because the hardware that comes with the Webers Is junk and they will work their way out through vibration depending on what mounts you are using for the carbs. Nice build, GL with the rest of It.:thumbup:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

81type53 said:


> Quick question on the Webers, why the giant venturis??


As per the Weber's handbook calculations, and other calculations with the help of an engine Guru and his calculators taking in consideration Dynamic compression ratio, displacement, rod ratio, vlave sizes, and cam specs; should have about 242HP @ 6850RPM with 529cc's per cylinder...



81type53 said:


> Also, don't forget to safety wire the aux. venturis because the hardware that comes with the Webers Is junk and they will work their way out through vibration depending on what mounts you are using for the carbs. Nice build, GL with the rest of It.:thumbup:


The fasteners are already drilled for safety wires 
The carbs are mounted with plain gaskets. Always worked fine for me.

Thanks for the cooments :thumbup:


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## toy_vw (Feb 11, 2006)

thats one insane build...you love your high carb diet.

Just one more quick one...are the bolts securing the butterfly locktited? or something.

I sorta remember the ends being mushroomed to prevent the bolt from backing out? atleast on other stuff.

Either way, I figure you've got everything covered...and 250 NA Hp is INSANE...thats honda s2000raping material there


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## LT1M21Stingray (Sep 14, 2006)

Yeah, turkey for Christmas is so played out. :thumbdown::screwy:

We want Weber carbs for Christmas! :thumbup::beer::laugh:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

*ROAD TRIP!!!*
Going to pick up my fenders (3" flares all around) in Milford Ma. today 

It's going to be a good long day; I should be back with other goodies from my US postal addy;
Wavetrac, ARP diff bolt kit, a missing rear Bilstein shock, and other sundries 

Ater all this, I should be able to finishe the paint on the inside panels of doors, hatch & hood!
(see you around 7pm Marc):thumbup:


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

Mtl-Marc said:


> Yeah, turkey for Christmas is so played out. :thumbdown::screwy:
> 
> We want Weber carbs for Christmas! :thumbup::beer::laugh:


I prefer Dellorto, it's the other white meat :laugh: .

F2 etubes...oldschool right there!


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

B4S said:


> I prefer Dellorto, it's the other white meat :laugh: .
> 
> F2 etubes...oldschool right there!


Looking at the charts I really needed the F2's
F9's with 529cc & 13.4:1 = :thumbdown:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Teaser!
had to fit them on the car as soon as I got home...


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## Wildkard9 (Nov 26, 2002)

Amazing build here! and with those fiberglass replacement fenders to boot! I can't help but drool.


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## 81sciroccorelived (Feb 1, 2009)

Cool fenders!! Wow you were right in my backyard again today Fred! Dedication !! Looking good!


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## LT1M21Stingray (Sep 14, 2006)

No more skinny tires... :thumbup::laugh:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Some of the other stuff that I picked up yesterday...

1977 924 Porsche tacho (yes its BIG!)
Red line is appropriate for the 2.2 









Honda Del Sol Racing radiator dual rows all aluminum. Its about 15" wide, so all my carbs velocity stacks, have no interference with the rad. 









And yes its finally here! Wavetracc LSD with the ARP bolt kit


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## Monster8V (Dec 23, 2000)

Fenders look really good!! I couldnt find any and the local who was going to make me a set flaked so I ended up grafting on some generic flares to mine. Id rather have FG and be done. I like yours alot!

Your 16v should rev well past 6250rpms! That Tach is suited better for an 8v, like mine. You should just mail it off to me and be done with it.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Started sanding / prepping the interior of the car; a few more hours of sanding, and some cleaning up, should be able to finish the interior by the end of the week (I hope)


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

I guess you can call these "daily updates"... 

Finished the front suspension, direction, brakes (except the braided lines) and modified drive shafts. 
All is in, so I decided to see how the tires & offset fitted with the Precision Motorsport fenders  
I like!!! 

This is only the front, I think the back will be as nice as the front, because of the 3/4" difference in back spacing on the wheels, and the flares seem to be a tiny bit wider too


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## rod_knock (Oct 4, 2010)

:snowcool: 

Sorry if I missed this, but what suspension are you running?


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

rod_knock said:


> :snowcool:
> 
> Sorry if I missed this, but what suspension are you running?


 Bilstein Sport with H&R race springs for now... 
Hopefully I can eventually save, for some serious stuff like RSS's or Bilstien Race coil overs. 

I just got a pic from Mtl-Marc, when we painted the interior of the hatch, hood & doors; A big thanks Marc, for your time, help & space! :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## 81type53 (Jun 2, 2008)

opcorn:


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## Monster8V (Dec 23, 2000)

fredybender said:


> Bilstein Sport with H&R race springs for now...
> Hopefully I can eventually save, for some serious stuff like RSS's or Bilstien Race coil overs.[/IMG]


 

I think you will be surpised at how well what you already have, works!


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

This is the last stretch of car tinkering, before going back to work after the holidays... 
Got the inside painted; Its still looks like a real beginner's paintjob, the paint for the inside is POR15. Its like all patched up because of the metallic, but its OK, it will do the job for what its made to be: A race car! 

The exterior paint, will get someone with skills, as I would like the car to look OK, especially with those flares  

Like I said, it looks kind of crappy with a few "silicone" spots, and the texture of the metallic is "chammy" like, but mostly on the floor pans... 

The purpose is to have a single colour, and that the paint is actually against rust, would have been great if I could have made it look good, but what the hey, like I said, its a track car  

P4C


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## gamblinfool (Sep 28, 2001)

Man - you actually have a real job too?? The amount of time in which you make your progress is awe-inspiring! :thumbup:


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## theenico (Nov 12, 2003)

Nice. I like what you've done so far. :thumbup:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Updates:


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

In. :thumbup:


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## 81sciroccorelived (Feb 1, 2009)

How do you get all things done so quickly???????


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## echassin (Dec 28, 2005)

I think the floor came out great


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## 81type53 (Jun 2, 2008)

*H20*

How are you routing your water outlet for your head?? Curious.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

81type53 said:


> How are you routing your water outlet for your head?? Curious.


Found a dual flange, for the outlet on the side of the head:
One outlet will go to the Honda rad, the other has the same diameter as the thermostat bypass on the water pump housing, and will be going there... Then, rad bottom, to water pump inlet
As simple as that!


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## Brycejoseph (Jul 9, 2008)

fredybender said:


> and the second mount, a solid Neuspeed aluminum mount.


Where did you get that solid steering rack bushing? I have been looking everywhere for one!

Awesome build Freddy! I have been watching it for a while! I am also looking for suspension and your set up seems like a good set up! I am wondering if getting Koni Yellows with some race springs or spending $200 more and getting some Bils Coils 

Cheers!


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## LT1M21Stingray (Sep 14, 2006)

Brycejoseph said:


> Where did you get that solid steering rack bushing? I have been looking everywhere for one!


Neuspeed.

It was in my personal stash of parts I'll never use.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)




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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

I have finished the brake lines, mocked up the dash panel, modified the Shine Racing camber plates, and included a strut bar at the same time. I had those plates laser cut.
The seat tracks are finished, I started off by keeping the stock mounting points, but soon found out that it was a lot more work to make custom bases, than to just weld in some 1-1/4" square tubing, and mount the seats directly...

As you can see also, I have finished gluing my rear quarters, and started mocking up the front spoiler to the glass fenders; it does not fit easily either, because of the extended fenders.

Still waiting on a few painters / body guys: I have a hard time finding reliable and trustworthy ones. They all say yes but when I'm ready, no one steps up to the plate

More to come...


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Some more work done...
Rear brake lines are secured (second picture, don't be confused: worklight wire is at the forefront... ooops)

















"D clip" anchoring of the SS flexible brake lines :

















My personal favorite!!!
Dash!!! Whoaaaa!!!!


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## Roc'N'Green (Apr 1, 2010)

Your building the car and motor I have built in my head time after time. :thumbup:


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## 868valver (Nov 3, 2009)

Sweet build! :thumbup:opcorn:


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## 81type53 (Jun 2, 2008)

fredybender said:


> Some more work done...
> Rear brake lines are secured (second picture, don't be confused: worklight wire is at the forefront... ooops)
> 
> 
> ...


whoaaaaaaaa!!


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## Chris16vRocco (Apr 30, 2006)

Does that dash have one of those caps over it?

Good progress, Fred. opcorn:


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## ziggirocco (Dec 13, 2010)

looking good!!


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## brownhound (Mar 22, 2007)

So damn tidy!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## LT1M21Stingray (Sep 14, 2006)

brownhound said:


> So damn tidy!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


:thumbup::beer:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Chris16vRocco said:


> Does that dash have one of those caps over it?
> 
> Good progress, Fred. opcorn:


Thanks Chris, yes it's the dash cap I didn't use in my other build...
Got a nice dash instead for Euclid, so took the dash cap for Dagomar

BTW, updates: No pics but both rear quarters are ready for primer, so is one door, and one fender (drivers side) Got some help from someone who works at a body shop. Body work sure makes a mess!!!


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## 76sciroccoRelived (Jul 27, 2005)

All I can say is that shell that had ideas of going to the scrap yard sure made it to a good home!!!

Great progress Fred!


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Thanks Larry, it would have been a real shame to have that very well preserved Mk1 shell, end up as toasters & sardine cans...

Peekshurz;


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## 76sciroccoRelived (Jul 27, 2005)

fredybender said:


> Thanks Larry, it would have been a real shame to have that very well preserved Mk1 shell, end up as toasters & sardine cans...
> 
> Peekshurz;


Nice job on the bodywork, you are working a lot faster than me on my 81S. Are you doing the bodywork Fred?


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## Monster8V (Dec 23, 2000)

I like the look of your flares better than I do the ones I ended up putting on my car. 
Now that I have it done, I think I want to go a different route and cut up the stock fenders, pull them out and graft in some metal. Its alot of work but you know how these projects are. Looking good man, keep the updates coming! I'm living my project thru yours since mine is on hold for a while longer....










is that lower line a solid line going to the caliper?


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Monster8V said:


> is that lower line a solid line going to the caliper?


Nope, its a flexible SS braided one


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## Monster8V (Dec 23, 2000)

fredybender said:


> Nope, its a flexible SS braided one


Thats funny, on my screen it looks like a solid line.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

I hate body work so much !!! 
Its on primer p4c:


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## rico_arg (Apr 28, 2006)

wow fred.. that looks amazing..


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Thanks for the good comments!

Wrenched a bit more tonight;

Finished up the spare tire hole with alloy
Made an alloy battery tray and made a strap for anchoring the battery between the two rear struts 
Finished machining & welding the EDIS 4 crank trigger wheel to crank pulley, and fabbed up the crank sensor bracket too. Al this for the Megajolt Jr V4 ignition set up 

C4p


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## calyp_so_fine (Jun 9, 2008)

sick project, hope to see it one day on the street!


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Final stretch in the parts buying mode (Geez! its about time!!!) I did end up by going twice over budget, even though I finished up Euclid last spring, and thought I could balance out a track build better... :screwy:

For the worst part, I'm actually thinking about a dual car trailer...:banghead:

Never mind! I have to get back on track and focus at the task at hand!

Got in some seats, and I finally ended up by buying the whole exhaust race set-up (head ports to tailpipe) from TT, for the tall block 16V application. I thought I could find something decent second hand, and make it work, but I've been looking since october and nothing came up, so I splurged again!

Got a kill switch mounted in the vent opening in the dash, I think it looks cool!

Got some wheels studs with the Hex head, I also scored a Painless wiring total kit on e-bay for 100$ including shipping...

A few liters of Ate blue racing brake fluid, I also scored a pair of OMP racing shoes for 31$ on e-bay... 

I'm just waiting on the painter to get back from his Florida vacation, and hopefully, my last buy; a 2Y transmission just waiting for my 3.94 final drive & Wavetrac just sitting in my living room to get transplanted, in order to start finishing up the car; I do have some fabrication left, (re; rad brackets, etc...) but I love doing that!

After having the car painted I can drop the engine & tranny in, then it will start looking like a real race car!

Cliky for peeeeechuuurz!


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## rico_arg (Apr 28, 2006)

Wow.. do you always move this fast on your projects..? this is great! 

Btw, i really like the setup on the dash. Very nice.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Little things getting done...
Waiting for the paint. Scheduled to go in the paint booth friday the 25th, and picking it up on sunday the 27th. Drivetrain will be ready for the transplant by then.

Transmission is a 2Y , with a modified 3.94 final drive, had to find a 4th gear for a small spline pinion shaft (the 2Y is the only tranny with the larger spline on the 4th gear  )
So found a set of same ratio gears on another donor tranny, and fixed it 
Wavetrac is in, with the ARP blot kit all the the 3.94 FD 
All new bearings, new synchros, and cases cleaned up and painted.
Both preloads are done, I just need the puller for the race on the pinion shaft, and back together it goes!

Finished fabbing my front engine mount reinforcement bar also...

As usual, a few pic for clicks!


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## LubsDaDubs (Apr 6, 2004)

Love the quality look of the reinforcment bar!!!!


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

A little more getting done.
Since I got a dash cap going in, I thought about having the dash go on a diet... Drilled a few holes, it will all get covered with the dash cap...

I also started mocking up the stand alone fuse boxes (2 of them, both 8 circuits, but one is a "painless" hot rod type fuse box) and the Megajolt Jr. box.
They will a fit nicely inside the glove compartement  
I had to do some cutting and fitting, but who says a race car, can't have some class!

They are all finished up & ready, but they are now out, as I am prepping the car to leave for paint on friday...

I ended up by re-doing my main positive from my battery: It wasn't fused, and it was bugging me... Especially with the battery relocated to the back, and having that nice 1/0 wire full of +12V going through the whole car...
So I got a nice 300 amp fuse (I know that the starter current will be demanding with close to 14:1 compression...)

I got some aluminum sheet and made nice door panels 
Not for the looks, but for safety: Having cut out the doors, sharp edges could be dangerous in the event of a crash. 
I have put simple straps for closing the door, and made a simple string attached to the upper triangular front window mounting point with a brass pulley near the mirror anchoring point, for opening my door latch from the inside...

I bought a few airplane vents for the front windows, and got my 3/16" Lexan sheet, to make all the glass (but keeping the stock windsheild) 

I will probably take a week vacation after its back from paint, so I can give this little project, a boost!

p4c


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Left today 

Back Sunday AM!


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Sorry for the quality of the video (and the spelling of the caption), it was taken with my son's laptop (forgot my camera this morning...)


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## Brycejoseph (Jul 9, 2008)

OMG. That is so clean. Did you go with original Diamond silver?

Someday i hope to have a scirocco this well put together for any type of driving!


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## garasja (May 12, 2010)

:thumbup:


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## Monster8V (Dec 23, 2000)

Thatsa funny. I just dropped off my car to get shot while im out of town and they already called me to come pick it up. Figures that I didnt want it back for a few weeks and they put a mad rush on it and got it done. Dunno why. I guess thats the trick to a fast turn around to getting a car painted. Tell them to take their time, ill be out of town for a few weeks...... LOL!!! 
Well see how it looks when I get home.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Eurethane paint does not have the shine of base coat clear coat, but its a go fast car, and clean looks were the only prerequisites; 


Spring is coming faster than we think 

Lexan windows cut & installed, front grille, and headlight buckets, with modified bracketery for the front turn signals (fiberglass fenders are not OEM fitment  ) Also put in the rear lights. 

A few pics from when I got back from the painters, and few more after my small progress...


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## LubsDaDubs (Apr 6, 2004)

makes me want to blow wretched apart and have her repainted:thumbup:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

SCHAWINNNGG !!!!!


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## Brycejoseph (Jul 9, 2008)

I would hate to get that dirty !
Beautiful!


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## Falcor (May 26, 2004)

I approve of this..... :thumbup:


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## Monster8V (Dec 23, 2000)

Where in the helll is the LIKE button?? 
:laugh:


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## LT1M21Stingray (Sep 14, 2006)

Monster8V said:


> Where in the helll is the LIKE button??
> :laugh:












:laugh:


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## Chris16vRocco (Apr 30, 2006)

Looking good, Fred.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Rear engine mount: check
fuel neck, lines, pump, pressure regulator, gauge, and necessary fittings for complete fuel management: check
Header wrap & install : check
Drivers side lexan window cut to size, installed with rubber molding & aircraft vent window ; check
Megajolt Jr, wiring: In progress... 

Tomorrow I would like to continue with finishing front brakes, axles, oil cooler installation, passenger side lexan window mock up, and try to find my front mount that I can't find anywhere! 

p4c


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

NOS Kamei hood scoop color matched


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## roccodingo (Apr 25, 2004)

Progressing at a great pace Fred  looking good


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

I just had to post this up;
This picture makes me think so much of the photoshpped "shrunk cars" (and I hate those!)
I like the stance of the car, and the tire width, but doesn't the picture of Dagomar incline to the looks of the "stupidity shrunk car fad" ...


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## 1983rabbitgti (Apr 4, 2004)

oh man she is pretty!


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## petebee (Jul 8, 2006)

Pull it out of the garage and take some pics in daylight please


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

@ Pete: you should know better, I'm a pic whore! all in due time my garage is in my basement, and its only coming out under its own power  

Not much posting, but working at a steady pace. 

Made some bumper cover mounts, so the front bumper cover sits real tucked in. I also wanted to have a permanent tow-bar attachment, so I combined them both, in one fabrication. 









I mocked up where the ignition module (Megajolt Jr v3) and the painless fuse boxes would go; decided to have them nicely tucked away in the glove compartment. 









I also worked on the dash & figuring out circuits for everything; I am making everything new, no gremlins allowed  . Hazards running with appropriate diodes on the flasher circuit, shift light (LED with resistance) right in my face!, etc... 









You can see in the picture below that spaghetti has begun! 










Engine bay: 
Fuel pump & circuitry: Check 
Coilpack wiring & fitment : Check 
Custom fabbed wires (16V front ends with Ford back end for EDIS4 coilpack) : Check 
EDIS4 module wired, routed, and installed including all shielded wires, etc... : Check 
VR sensor install & wired : Check 
Starter, alternator, & engine grounds & wires : Check 
Brake light circuit: Check 










Here we see the empty space that needs to be occupied by a Rad... I have fabbed & welded my alloy rad once, and still had clearance problems; I will be attacking this shortly... 









Rear of the car wiring almost finished 










Here we can see my front end pretty much the way it should stay... 









Keep y'all posted!


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## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

oh man, I'm so pumped to see it run! Please please video the first start and when its running


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## petebee (Jul 8, 2006)

Fred I know it's a track car, but you've repainted it so nice and everything is so purty...so please paint those bumpers with some trim paint. Nice red S stripes would look good, too


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## ziggirocco (Dec 13, 2010)

nice work, makes me feel embaressed I have not gotten much done on my car!!


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Finished fabricating my rad supports, and welded up the bottom outlet (clearance problems with motor mount) I also fabbed up a 90 degree angled neck to clear my new rad support, and that way I can use a straight hose to the water pump  

My aluminum welding skills are getting better  

I also cranked the car for the first time today  no sparks, but its ok; I'm sure its just a little something I overlooked... 
Just a matter of days before it starts... 

Season starts in may, so I'll have time to test & tune! YAY! 

p4c


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## 868valver (Nov 3, 2009)

ABSOLUTE :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: !!! Cant wait to see this in action!


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Fist day of spring: Epic! 
Rocco gave its first breath of life... 
Cylinders have close to 250psi, and started it with ignition in limp mode ... 
The car, actually resonates & moves your chest cavity. 
No pics this time, it was worth it to take in video... 
This will give me the motivation to accelerate my pace to have this done soon, so I can take it the track & dyno to tune it. 

enjoy! 
PS: Sorry if you don't understand the talking in french, but its all good


----------



## Chris16vRocco (Apr 30, 2006)

Sounds nice and angry. Can't wait to see videos of this thing in action.


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## ziggirocco (Dec 13, 2010)

Malade!:thumbup: 

Good stuff, nice to see it will be a very pissed off rocco on the track!! 

:laugh:


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## SpahnDirge (Dec 6, 2010)

Hey there! 
I was curious if you had any more info, or even the files used to machine that crankwheel trigger 
for EDIS. I'd be interested to know a bit more in depth as to how you mounted it up. 

Thanks in advance!


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

SpahnDirge said:


> Hey there!
> I was curious if you had any more info, or even the files used to machine that crankwheel trigger
> for EDIS. I'd be interested to know a bit more in depth as to how you mounted it up.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


 I took an old v-belt crank pulley, and bolted it up to a timing belt pulley to position it on center, since bolt pattern is not equidistant. I then put the timing belt pulley (with V-belt pulley attached to it) in the lathe and turned down the V-belt pulley to the exact same diameter as the Ford trigger wheel I.D. (got a full EDIS 4 kit with trigger wheel, coil etc, on e-bay for 50$) 
I then had a proper pulley "core" to fit with the ford trigger wheel. Basically its just keeping the center... 

With turning the pulley core, to the same diameter as the trigger wheel, you get an interference fit, thus giving you the needed concentricity of the trigger wheel mounted on the pulley core . I then positioned the trigger wheel axially on the pulley core, for proper timing belt clearance. marked it at 90 BTDC with missing tooth with VR sensor positioning, & then proceeded with TIG welding alternatively at about 9 tack points between trigger wheel, and pulley core. 
I just sandwiched the now "proper bolt pattern" trigger wheel between V-belt pulley & timing belt pulley. 
HTH 
Fred


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## ziggirocco (Dec 13, 2010)

mad scientist has spoken!:thumbup:


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## psychobandito (Sep 10, 2009)

can't believe i haven't seen this thing yet. what tracks do you plan on running? maybe i'll see you with my mk1!


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

psychobandito said:


> can't believe i haven't seen this thing yet. what tracks do you plan on running? maybe i'll see you with my mk1!


Where are you from?

I have 5 events registered with the VW lapping club; Mecaglisse, Ste-Croix, Sanair (2) , & St-Eustache.
And a 6th with DSC in Shannonville


----------



## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Updates:
Car almost done still things to do:
Download ignition map & test out Megjolt Jr (still running on EDIS 4 limp mode)
My Innovate LC1 came in D.O.A. , so still waiting on getting the controller back to finish up wiring
Shift linkage needs to be completely done; no linkage installed 
Hood & pins need to be installed
Windshield needs to be installed
Tach needs to be wired: Some diodes coming from the coil pack, yada, yada, yada... 

I have not yet completely heat cycled the engine (thermostat to open & fan to come on) because: 
1- Car is inside the house
2- I need a proper ignition map, in order to run in proper temperature range
3- I need to get C12 fuel
4- Need to time the cams properly


So I need to finish off the shift linkage so I can bring it out...

p4c
Do not be shy to comment !


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## California 16v (Jul 20, 2008)

:thumbup: like the new pictures and the porsche tach 

looking forward to seeing some videos of this Scirocco on the road/track


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## cholland_ (Apr 12, 2006)

fredybender said:


> And a 6th with DSC in Shannonville


More info, s'il vous plait?


----------



## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

cholland_ said:


> More info, s'il vous plait?


I will be driving to Shannonville on friday July 8th;
DSC from Quebec city, is organizing a track day on the long track at Shannonville motorsport park Saturday the 9th.
Spectators are welcome.

I will be driving up with the RV and staying at the track on friday night...

We will be a few of VW's going there.

Can't wait


----------



## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Machined brass bushings for the transmission relay lever; The rest of the bushings are either Teflon or Delrin, except for the shaft bearing, which I machined a sleeve to accept an A2 bushing sleeved with brass & O rings...
I would estimate back lash at 0.003" - 0.008" maximum on all movable components of shift linkage...


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## cholland_ (Apr 12, 2006)

fredybender said:


> I will be driving to Shannonville on friday July 8th;
> DSC from Quebec city, is organizing a track day on the long track at Shannonville motorsport park Saturday the 9th.
> Spectators are welcome.


Damn, I was hoping to take the Golf around and see how long it takes before the engine blows up


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## microdub98 (May 12, 2007)

This is awesome opcorn:


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## rod_knock (Oct 4, 2010)

fredybender said:


> .
> I would estimate back lash at 0.003" - 0.008" maximum on all movable components of shift linkage...


that's great and all, but how's the slop in the actual forks in your transmission. Typically, the majority of the play is found in the transmission and the shifter forks, alteast when the linkage is rebuilt. 

Of course, every bit helps, so if you want to make a few more of those bushings, I'll take a set :laugh:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

rod_knock said:


> that's great and all, but how's the slop in the actual forks in your transmission. Typically, the majority of the play is found in the transmission and the shifter forks, alteast when the linkage is rebuilt.
> 
> Of course, every bit helps, so if you want to make a few more of those bushings, I'll take a set :laugh:


I'm sure you can get a local machine shop to make them cheaper than I can sell them to you, not even mentioning shipping... It's not that I don't want to do them, but time is money!

As for the shift forks...
Took 4 transmissions appart, and took the best components from them. I needed to play with the gearing anyways... I am not too keen on spending $800 on a diff, and another $500 on new bearings & synchro's to overlook selector play :thumbup:


----------



## rod_knock (Oct 4, 2010)

fredybender said:


> .. It's not that I don't want to do them, but time is money!


exactly why i don't want to spend my own time on the lathe. sometimes it's just easier to buy. haha. 


:laugh:


----------



## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Quite a few bugs to iron out, but that s part of a build, especially in something like this...
Going to the alignment today.

Double take anyone ? :laugh:


----------



## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Car is NOT tuned at all...
At first it was so lean, we couldn't get a reading from the wideband...
Ran, and Oh, My Friggin, GOD!!!
Close to peanut buttering my shorts!


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

Sounds awesome. Any estimates on a power to weight ratio?


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

mellbergVWfan said:


> Sounds awesome. Any estimates on a power to weight ratio?


Close to 2.83kg/ hp, as per my calculations
6.23lbs / HP


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

fredybender said:


> Close to 2.83kg/ hp, as per my calculations
> 6.23lbs / HP


Damn. That's about the same as Z06 Corvettes and better than the GT3 RS. Seriously impressive. :thumbup:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

mellbergVWfan said:


> Damn. That's about the same as Z06 Corvettes and better than the GT3 RS. Seriously impressive. :thumbup:


Those are estimates, real numbers will be released after the dyno...
Hopefully the "seat of the pants" dyno, coupled with the jetting calculators are not too "off the mark"
Thanks for the good comments!
:thumbup::beer:


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## Grig85 (Feb 11, 2006)

:thumbup:


----------



## LT1M21Stingray (Sep 14, 2006)

fredybender said:


> Car is NOT tuned at all...
> At first it was so lean, we couldn't get a reading from the wideband...
> Ran, and Oh, My Friggin, GOD!!!
> Close to peanut buttering my shorts!


:thumbup::beer:


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## -RalleyTuned- (Nov 17, 2008)

Just went over your whole build, what an awesome car! Can't wait to see some track vids and dyno numbers, that thing is gonna be a kick in the pants :thumbup::thumbup:


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## microdub98 (May 12, 2007)

fredybender said:


> Car is NOT tuned at all...
> At first it was so lean, we couldn't get a reading from the wideband...
> Ran, and Oh, My Friggin, GOD!!!
> Close to peanut buttering my shorts!


Looks like ya broke the "Fun O' Meter" there :thumbup:


----------



## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Finally got a lot of the bugs ironed out...
Still in need of tuning.

I will admit to makig a REAL NOOB error; mixture was so lean, and car would run like ****, because I actually assembled the auxiliary venturis backwards :banghead:

While trying to iron out my bugs, and make my Porsche tach work, the megajolt module blew up the voltage regulator...I actually finished souldering the new one yesterday on the board (that regulator was not that easy to find either)

So I got a Autometer monster tach now.

I still need to make a good ignition map for VP C12 racing fuel...

Jetting is back to what I had in at first. except for the Idle jets that are now 60F6's

Dyno is tomorrow, but I am not expecting high numbers; Its not a tuning session, its more of a meet at the dyno, with local guys. 3 runs each, type of thing...

Expect pics & vids


----------



## r32autoxer (Aug 12, 2005)

opcorn:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Went on the Dyno today:
The car is still not tuned at all; I had to change the voltage regulator chip on the Megajold board Thursday night... My laptop wont communicate to the module because of the famous RS232 to USB interface  So no timing tuning)

Running pretty rich (10:1)

With the correction factors 172.4HP at the wheels @ 6074RPMs / 175ft-lbs @ 5237 RPMS
Mustang dyno, calibrated in april 2011.
Meaning that crank HP should be around 204HP at this time...

Will schedule dyno tuning time in 2 weeks... 

Vid


----------



## California 16v (Jul 20, 2008)

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: dyno video ... looking to the next one in 2 weeks


----------



## Rocco R16V (Oct 7, 2008)

:heart:


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## rod_knock (Oct 4, 2010)

fredybender said:


> Went on the Dyno today:
> 
> 
> Running pretty rich (10:1)
> ...


you've got so much power left to be found. 10:1 afr is pig rich, and once you get the timing figured out it's gonna be a huge difference. CAn't wait to see what you get of this motor.


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## d-bot (Sep 6, 2004)

Looking great here Fred! Have you gotten this to an actual scale yet? Keep up the good work. I enjoy how thorough you have been (in both of your project really!).


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

FF to the 4:02 minute mark 
Remember, this is NA


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## Meltkamp (Oct 10, 2008)

very nice! build is amazing cant wait to see more


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Notice the absence of "PSHHHH" when i drive by 
You can only hear "BRWAAAAAAP"






Rabbit scared the Civic off :laugh:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

More pictures & videos coming after this week end:
Spending from the friday, until Sunday, at Shannonville Long track 

VWLC (Volkswagen Lapping Club) will be more than present with 4-6 members present :thumbup:


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## SpahnDirge (Dec 6, 2010)

The car sounds absolutely beautiful! :thumbup:


----------



## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)




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## d-bot (Sep 6, 2004)

the turbo 16v rabbit is either really slow or your rocco is a beast


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## xavw (Aug 24, 2006)

ouaip ! c'est vraiment nice


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## 92sGTI (Jan 9, 2006)

d-bot said:


> the turbo 16v rabbit is either really slow or your rocco is a beast


 hahahahaha just giving chance to the old man.  
fred's rocco is a beast , period. 

in this video i was driving with fredybender's kid don't want to kill his kid trying to pass fred, beacause fred is so old , that he can't do 2 thing at the same time, so he NEVER look in his mirroir to let us pass him safely 

anyway even his kid said the rabbit is a roller coaster ride and his father's ride is stinking brake/oil :laugh: 

hahahahha :heart: papy , i'm joking you know but next time i go first  


i'll upload more video of this rocco really soon.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

92sGTI said:


> hahahahaha just giving chance to the old man.
> fred's rocco is a beast , period.
> 
> in this video i was driving with fredybender's kid don't want to kill his kid trying to pass fred, beacause fred is so old , that he can't do 2 thing at the same time, so he NEVER look in his mirroir to let us pass him safely
> ...


 :laugh: :beer: :thumbup:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

I just went to the dark side, again... 
After last weekend, I knew that the H&R race / Bilstein Sport combo was a major concern: 

The car is so lightweight, that the helper portion of the spring (tighter wound 4 coils at top, and at the bottom) are not even compressed... 

I had to clamp them down with collets, and I would still need more weight to sag them down, to the proper height, to get the needed spring rate... 

So, I e-mailed, I phoned, I searched the internets  

Finally I caved in, and I will have some custom H&R coilovers produced, and should be shipped in a couple of weeks from Germany. The Mk1 race coil overs, are somewhat of a non-disclosed, unicorn, type; they will NOT give spring rates, nor valving info, even when you buy them ...  

Next event is July 24th, and I should have them for the other event after that.


----------



## -RalleyTuned- (Nov 17, 2008)

noice upgrade! what spring rates do those come with? 

I have new coils on my track mk1 as well, im looking forward to getting out on them, i bet you are stoked right now :thumbup::thumbup:


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## theenico (Nov 12, 2003)

Awesome. :thumbup:


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## blubayou (Oct 3, 2001)

:beer: really like this car


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## mad rallye (Apr 29, 2007)

Oh man that is buetifull all that need is now a 6 speed dog box 

Love it well done 


Nas


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Long vid of the Rocco at Reverside speedway in Quebec city...
Before anyone says anything, yes I know, I need to work on my hand positionning!!!
(But I am having fun anyways  )
Thanks for the vid Rej!


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## echassin (Dec 28, 2005)

Salaud, 'shuis jaloux.


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## LT1M21Stingray (Sep 14, 2006)

echassin said:


> Salaud, 'shuis jaloux.


:laugh::wave:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Sanair track vid, taken with a phone:
OMG! New suspension, killer set-up for the track!
It was worth the wait... H&R RSS Clubsport (custom order for A1 chassis)


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

Holy crap. It's like a freaking rocket.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Some interior dash shots for my buddy Rico: 
You can see the mounting screws on the bottom, they hold well. 
As for the top part, I forgot I ditched the screws, and just put some 1/2" thick, self adhesive neoprene material (I have some left overs, from when I used to do GP bike seats out of it...) 
It doesn't vibrate as much with that... 

HTH 
Fred


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## rico_arg (Apr 28, 2006)

thank you for the pictures Fred. It makes sense now.. What did you do for Euclid. 

Edit: just found Euclids thread.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

rico_arg said:


> thank you for the pictures Fred. It makes sense now.. What did you do for Euclid.


 stock S dash...


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Last outing of the season yesterday (Canadian thanksgiving)
Ouch!!!
Fisrt started with play in the "new" ball joints (this car was tracked 6 days this year, thats it!)
Then came brake problems; pedal travel all the way to the floor almost.
Finished off, by having zero oil pressure coming back into the pits.

The car was flawless all summer, but I guess she was telling me she needs attention...

Just went totally nuts today, and bought a 6 speed Quaife Dog box & real VWMS clutch type diff...:screwy:

So, this winter:
02A shifter, 
Motor teardown & replace bearings
change clutch
Change booster & master cylinder
maybe looking for a floor mount pedal cluster
Quaife quick ratio Steering rack
Rod end tubular A arms
Ball joint extenders

keep you all posted


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## Meltkamp (Oct 10, 2008)

Im just going to live my dreams through ok thanks 

seriously though amazing car. Sounds like one hell of a time


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Can anyone say *DOGBOX*? 

6 speed Quaife dog box with a VWMS LSD 
Totally insane purchase...

Dagomar is in the garage, awaiting transplant.
I will also raise the compression a tad, redoing the brakes, changing the master, and the brake lines.
I will also need to cut & re-weld the pedals, as its hard to heel & toe with the pedals as they are now, and the transmission, has no synchros, needs to be rev-matched.


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## d-bot (Sep 6, 2004)

02A box :thumbup:

Are you doing a full hydro clutch set-up or using the cable to hydro conversion?


----------



## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

d-bot said:


> 02A box :thumbup:
> 
> Are you doing a full hydro clutch set-up or using the cable to hydro conversion?


Going for the Eurovan cable set-up


----------



## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Found out why I lost oil pressure, at the last track day I attended...
Broken intermediate shaft, right next to the bearing next to the pulley...

Thus the importance of having no burrs, and smooth transition radii's whenever machining parts with stess loads...

But I think the culprite is the oil pump, (bought a new Shadeck during the build)
It has abnormal shaft play, and binds when rotating it by hand 

p4c


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## d-bot (Sep 6, 2004)

How are the bearings; or did you shut it off before the pressure drop was too low?


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

d-bot said:


> How are the bearings; or did you shut it off before the pressure drop was too low?


I actually did about 2 miles without oil pressure 
Bearings are getting replaced, and only minor scoring on cylinders , I think :what:

BIG red light in dash to go in for low oil pressure!


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

New bottom end bearings are installed, changed them with the engine still in the bay;
I have such limited space, that I need to leave the engine in the car... 

I have to lower the timing belt side of the engine, to take out the intermediate shaft. On top of this, I have to remove the other part of the intermediate shaft by reaching inside the block...

After that, I will reinstall the mount, and take out the transmission & mount.

I placed an order for A1 chassis O2A trans mounts from Germany; 
I thought I would post the link, because they are way cheaper than anywhere else; 89 euros, and about 12 euros shipping...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/36034764677...76&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT&vxp=mtr

Got my stage 4 clutch kit also with the 8lbs chromoly flywheel

Also splurged on this:  CAE VWMS ultra shifter









Keep you all posted soon with progress!

p4c


----------



## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Finally took the engine out; I wanted to do all the work with the engine in the car, but it was a wise decision to remove it.

While I was taking out the broken intermediate shaft, I noticed that the new I.S. bearings I had pressed in, were destroyed 
That means a total tear down of the engine, and sinding out again to get new bearings pressed in...
I took a PL 16V intermediate shaft, and pressed out the oil pump gear from the 9A, and machined the PL I.S. to the same OD for pressing in the 9A gear.

The 9A I.S., is a real bad excuse for a lame part; the casting is totally out of round of quite a few mm, and just plain looks bad. On the other hand the PL I.S. is real nice... Thus my choice of doing this I.S. swap.


Engine is getting rebuilt, and no trace of detonation, so I might go up a few points on compression 

Keep you all posted


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## ziggirocco (Dec 13, 2010)

Nice to see the carnage was limited, looking forward to seeing the new motor


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Intermediate shaft bearings pulled out: I machined myself a puller for removal & installation.
Just waiting on the new bearings now...

I am perplexed as to the cause / effect:
Did the bearings have effect on breaking the shaft, or the shaft on the bearings?
The chicken or the egg, kind of question...

Tool & mangled bearings :


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## ziggirocco (Dec 13, 2010)

Chicken or egg.... In the end unfortunately the motor got scrambled!

My guess would be the shaft killed the bearing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

New crankshaft bearings: Check
New Con rod bearings: Check
New intermidiate shaft bearings: Check
New 02A Mk1 engine mounts: Check
New stage 4 Clutch kit for 02A : Check
New 02A starter : Check
New Oil pan: Check
New Corrado master cy,inder : Check
Used late Mk1 Cabriolet booster sanded & repainted: Check


Looks like the 02A engine mounts for Mk1 from Germany are real nice: almost no tweeking needed!
And real cheap too: 89 Euros!!!

Engine is in the hole, I will be finishing off engine compartement fiddling prior to bolting down the head. Talked to Scott from USRT, for my VWMS shifter on order, and I guess Santa is going to be late for me this year  
Should have it sometime in Janurary...

Meanwhile I will goahead with pedal modifications for heel & toe, rear disc conversion, with two prop valves (I will have one per side in the back) 

Still need a game plan for my airdam splitter, and a few other things.

I will be taking vacation from next Friday to Janurary 3rd, so I might get a good boost on the pace...

p4c


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## ziggirocco (Dec 13, 2010)

Looking good!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 1983rabbitgti (Apr 4, 2004)

even with the unfortunate loss in oilpressure, that thing is still beautiful!


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

^ Thanks!

These will be finding their way on Dagomar: Ball joint extender is actually designed in the control arm (ball joint sits about 1"higher than stock)


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## d-bot (Sep 6, 2004)

Really like the arms but moving the complete joint up does not help the suspension geometry. The control arm can look like anything you want but the pivot point is critical. Ideally the distance from lower pivot to the upper pivot is lengthened to gain better geometry from lowering. In your case it has remained the same.


Free typos thx to iPhone.


----------



## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

d-bot said:


> Really like the arms but moving the complete joint up does not help the suspension geometry. The control arm can look like anything you want but the pivot point is critical. Ideally the distance from lower pivot to the upper pivot is lengthened to gain better geometry from lowering. In your case it has remained the same.
> 
> 
> Free typos thx to iPhone.


Totally right, should have looked at it closer...
Bought them from a someone here on Vortex, but I think I will modify the ball joints, with spherical bearings & extensions like Jarod does, when they get here...

Fred


----------



## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Cable clutch is installed:
02A cable clutch conversion is relatively easy. The actuator is still available from the dealer, I bought my engine mounts for the 02A for A1 chassis here: http://www.tech-53.com/product-p/trsmt02a02j.htm
Cable clutch adapter kit here: http://www.tech-53.com/product-p/mk1cckit.htm

I also decided to use SS braided lines directly from the master, as I changed my master for one off a Corrado; The flares were not the best, and I was worried about more leaks, so I decided to change all the brake hoses. I will also change the rear set-yp to discs, and will use a n adjustable prop valve right next to my hand brake. I will only use one circuit for the rear brakes, and I will also change the hand brake to hydraulic; fab pics coming soon...

The head is on, but I ordered a 152 teeth timing belt from a 1.8T, but its too long, the tensionner, can do a full rotation, and will not have enough travel to take out the play.
Rock Auto has the 151 teeth ABF belt (euro only) for about 20$ plus shipping.

I also decided to go a bit more on compression, I just hope I never over rev, because the expensive valve train will desintegrate! 
I should be around the 14.5-15:1 static ratio. I took off some lamination from the ABA head gasket.
I also had to modify the HG because of the 84mm high compression pistons, coupled with the disel crank: they really were "licking" each other, so I took a flapwheel, and opened up each of the layers, slowly & carefully , and deburred the, with the upmost attention. I think I spent about 3 hours to do this...

Keep you all posted...

Again, p4c


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## ziggirocco (Dec 13, 2010)

looking good !!


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## Shocwav3 (Feb 13, 2003)

d-bot said:


> Really like the arms but moving the complete joint up does not help the suspension geometry. The control arm can look like anything you want but the pivot point is critical. Ideally the distance from lower pivot to the upper pivot is lengthened to gain better geometry from lowering. In your case it has remained the same.
> 
> 
> Free typos thx to iPhone.


D-bot,

I actually made the referenced arms that freddy will be using. I chose to modify the location of the ball joint in order to maximize the range of motion one could gain from the ball joint on a lowered application. ( compared to stock arms, where the joints are already using well over half those range of motion once the car is lowered.) I'm not sure why maximizing the distance between upper and lower pivots would help the suspension( I'm not saying u are wrong) I have just not found anything that gives me a clear understanding as to why that is the only acceptable method?

I am currently developing Cro- moly spindles that incorporate a lower mount point for the ball joint, which should fix the issue entirely, allowing use of either stock arms or tubular like I have developed. They will be available in custom dimensions to suite the car.

Shoot me a pm if u would like, maybe I can get a clear understanding of the whole geometry 
issue.:thumbup:

Happy holidays guys


----------



## Brycejoseph (Jul 9, 2008)

ugggg, love the brake lines! :thumbup:


----------



## Muffler Bearing (Apr 4, 2004)

Shocwav3 said:


> D-bot,
> 
> I actually made the referenced arms that freddy will be using. I chose to modify the location of the ball joint in order to maximize the range of motion one could gain from the ball joint on a lowered application. ( compared to stock arms, where the joints are already using well over half those range of motion once the car is lowered.) I'm not sure why maximizing the distance between upper and lower pivots would help the suspension( I'm not saying u are wrong) I have just not found anything that gives me a clear understanding as to why that is the only acceptable method?
> 
> ...




i'm trying to find a non jerky way of saying this... but... you didn't at all accomplish what you wanted regarding the range of motion in the ball joint and your understanding of basic geometry is severely lacking. if you don't understand these things then i really suggest you study up on basic geometry (not even specifically car related, just basic lines, points, angles, that short of thing) before diving into making parts trying to fix a problem that you really don't understand. at this point your just spinning your wheels and wasting other peoples time and money, and that's a bit upsetting. i would not drive those control arms around the block, not to mention around a track while turning it up to eleven.

also, what is this upper pivot you speak of?


----------



## d-bot (Sep 6, 2004)

Thanks Muffler Bearing. To follow up Shocwav3, you haven't achieved any of what you set out to do. At full droop and bump the stock ball joint doesn't bind so there is no reason to move it. Short of taking a ton of time to explain basic suspension read this as well as do more homework that isn't on vortex. There are plenty of suspension books available.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?988550-OK-i-want-to-have-some-ball-joint-extenders-made...

I have recently seen people selling spacer plates for mk5s and mk6s that push the a-arm down and keep the pivot of the ball joint in the same location. It's wrong and does not do one single thing for the suspension geometry.

A control arm can look like whatever it wants, straight, curved, wavey; but the only thing that matters is the distance between the pivot points which make up the geometry. As the distance of the pivots change, so does how the suspension works. What you have achieved is just making the a-arm a different shape and doesn't lend itself to any better geometry over stock. 

The only reason I said anything in the first place is that I find it important that people get products that actually work for what the user expects them to do.


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## echassin (Dec 28, 2005)

Fred, those videos are great!

Sorry about the engine, I was thinking the shaft broke first and without any support at the pump end, the shaft flopped around and destroyed the other bearing, and the rest happened due to the absence of oil pressure. With a better shaft, I bet all will be well :thumbup:

While not as harsh as Muffler Bearing (is anyone? ), I too have concerns about those control arms, especially twisting loads under hard braking at the junction between the front tube and the rear tube. I wonder why that's not welded solid with inboard and outboard gussets at that spot 

And I'll risk speaking out of my area of expertize and say that a custom spindle with a "lower ball joint" sounds just like a custom spindle with the ball joint in the same spot as stock, but with a "higher hub". That would give a lowered car with proper geometry, just like those extenders that push the ball joint down away from the hub, wouldn't it?


----------



## d-bot (Sep 6, 2004)

echassin said:


> And I'll risk speaking out of my area of expertize and say that a custom spindle with a "lower ball joint" sounds just like a custom spindle with the ball joint in the same spot as stock, but with a "higher hub". That would give a lowered car with proper geometry, just like those extenders that push the ball joint down away from the hub, wouldn't it?


Well, yes and no. Not sure moving the hub will do anything but making the distance greater below the hub is what will correct a lowered cars geometry. Instead of moving the hub up, we would still want the hub to maintain the distance on the top like stock and have a longer bottom which would attach to a ball joint. The ball joint extenders or a "drop spindle" will change the pivot point by having a greater vertical point to point distance. 

But to follow up a bit more in Fred's case to help explain a bit more.
The center point of the hub axis is where with new a-arm? Still in the same point as stock. Why? Because the pivot point aka ball joint, is still in the SAME point in relation to the spindle. The control arm shape and the way the ball joint mounts will NOT change the suspension geometry. It will only make it look like you did by making your a-arm lower with out actually changing the most important part; the PIVOT! 
So I must repeat...



d-bot said:


> A control arm can look like whatever it wants, straight, curved, wavey; but the only thing that matters is the distance between the pivot points which make up the geometry.


Hope this helps but if it doesn't then I'll do a diagram tomorrow after work.


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## Shocwav3 (Feb 13, 2003)

Muffler,

I understand your frustration but I want to make it clear I was not saying these would do anything they wouldn't.
I never claimed this corrected the center line of gravity on a car? I understand the difference, and the price of the product reflected that as well. I simply said that by raising the ball joint it would put it in a more level orientation with the ground, allowing the full range of motion from the ball joint. 

I dont see why you wouldn't drive my arms around the block, that just seems like a personal attack? 
They are well constructed and have performed without any issues for me over the past year. 

I'm not trying to get into a pissing match, I just need to defend my position here.

D-bot,

If Freddy is unhappy, he knows how to contact me and we will work something out. I am not trying to pull a quick one on anybody.

Echassin,

The design I refereed to with the spindles would not raise the location of the hub but actually incorporate, for lack of a better term "a built in extender".


----------



## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Today I decided to start working with a bit more of a serious pace:
I have everything to start the rear disc conversion (I thought the drums could handle it, and save myself a few $, but I should have done it with discs, from the start...)
I have installed a Wilwood lever type prop valve for the rear brakes, next to the hand brake.

New discs, bearings, handbrake cables, pads, etc...

Today my objective was to install the head, and put my new 151 teeth ABF tmimng belt on...

So I put the head on, and temporarily torques the head with only a few foot pounds to verify that the head gasket does not intefere with the pistons. Put on the belt, and proceeded to rotate the engine by hand from the crank bolt with the spark plugs removed from the head.

Not even after a full crank rotation, something was binding 
So I decided to make some custom dowel pins, because of my lamination of 2 HG from an ABA:
I am presently at 2.40mm HG thickness with a static compression ratio of 14.7:1

I doweled the first one with 3 different diameters, and the second with 2:
The first one locates block, head gasket, and head within 0.002"
The second one is a interference fit, on the slot of the HG. Meaningt it has the same diameter as the slot width. This means that I will never have to locate any delaminated gaskets ever again!

So proceded with the dowel installation, after spending almost 2.5 hours machining within 0.0005" the little metal parts...

Installed the HG on the block, and I was very happy with the result; I decided to turn the crank to verify clearance with pistons 2 & 3, and the same binding occured. I tried rotating the intermediate shaft pulley, and thats where I understood that the 1.8 PL intermediate shaft, even though fitted with the proper 2.0 9A oil pump gear, would not clear the diesel crank...

So tomorrow, I will need to lower the engine on the passenger side, that means I need to take out the CV joints, etc...

Oh well, I also need to find a 9A intermediate shaft now 

Keep ya posted! 
p4c


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

I haven't worked on the car, as much as I wanted to, but thats how it goes...

Working on modifying the heim joint lower control arms: shockwav3, is a great stand up guy, he made some more parts and shipped them out; I really would like to point out his dedication on the control arms. Yes there were issues, but he stood up and worked with me to correct that.

So I will have a FULL spherical rod end set-up, including top plate, lower control arms, & tie-rods 

Working on finishing the rear disc set up, with the Wilwood prop valve.

I will be working on the ball joint extenders, with modified & welded spindles, not bolt on parts.

I'm still waiting on my shifter from Germany, which will defintaly be porn


----------



## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

I also started to machine some steering column bearing repair parts, posted some up for sale, but the tex brought them down.
Just thought I would share what they look like and if you think this is good for you PM me, do not post about them in the thread...

Its a bearing retainer, that just blots on to the steering column, no need to take it appart.
It holds the lower bearing in place, as the plastic race usually breaks & slips out.


----------



## Meltkamp (Oct 10, 2008)

Can you build a car for me lol. All seriousness amazing build and phenomenal work.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Meltkamp said:


> Can you build a car for me lol. All seriousness amazing build and phenomenal work.


Thanks for the kudos :thumbup::beer:

Mocking up the new rod end lower control arms...
I will be making welded ball joint extenders, to fit in the rod end at the spindle.
I should draw it up tomorrow, and get it on the lathe also. similar to this:





I won't have the same set up, but you get the idea, on where I'm going with the extenders...

P4C


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## Shocwav3 (Feb 13, 2003)

Fredy,

glad to see the arms in there:thumbup: 
As always Im in for progress.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Getting there...


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## d-bot (Sep 6, 2004)

fredybender said:


>


 Is this a prop valve or e-brake? I would assume the former but never know. I'm looking for in-line hydro ebrake solutions.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

d-bot said:


> Is this a prop valve or e-brake? I would assume the former but never know. I'm looking for in-line hydro ebrake solutions.


 This is a prop valve only... 

If you are looking for a hydraulic e-brake solution, just use a clutch master, from anything (toyota, VW, Honda...), hose in, then hose out... normally open, and closed with brake on... Just put a clevis on the piston shaft & you're done! 

As far as developements for tonight, finally some welded ball joint extender goodness!


----------



## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)




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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Nippon Denso (kubota tractor) alternator installed; Pulley welded & machined for proper offset, and apppropriate v-belt fitted.
1.6D alternator bracket, and a few mods...


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Not to many posts lately after mine...
Am I boring you guys (gals) :laugh:

Post up comments, good, bad, constructive, etc...
all welcome :wave:


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## chinarockfish (Dec 8, 2009)

I love this thread! I think the engine build part was the final inspiration for my engine. Just got the block back from the machine shop, so a re-read is in order. Keep up the good work!


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## ziggirocco (Dec 13, 2010)

fredybender said:


> Nippon Denso (kubota tractor) alternator installed; Pulley welded & machined for proper offset, and apppropriate v-belt fitted.
> 1.6D alternator bracket, and a few mods...


Looking good Fred, the forums have been a bit slow 

Always cool stuff in your garage, but wondering why go with this alternator setup? Might be ignorant of me but ?? What am I missing.

Looks nice tho.


Misspelled by my iPhone using Slaptalk!


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## Chris16vRocco (Apr 30, 2006)

It's difficult to say anything when your jaw is on the floor.


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## scirocco*joe (Feb 23, 2002)

Chris16vRocco said:


> It's difficult to say anything when your jaw is on the floor.


Well said. The customization on this beast is rad. :thumbup:


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## echassin (Dec 28, 2005)

Chris16vRocco said:


> It's difficult to say anything when your jaw is on the floor.


:laugh: yup.


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## rico_arg (Apr 28, 2006)

Chris16vRocco said:


> It's difficult to say anything when your jaw is on the floor.


for real... i feel small in a world of giants.... and i am 260lbs....


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## prom king (Aug 14, 2004)

fredybender said:


> Not to many posts lately after mine...
> Am I boring you guys (gals) :laugh:
> 
> Post up comments, good, bad, constructive, etc...
> all welcome :wave:


I know how you feel everyone quiet on the build threads. 
I'm guilty of this on your thread though, I lurk and never post, but it's definietely an inspiration to my carb build.


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## d-bot (Sep 6, 2004)

I'm bored...






But I'll just keep sending you PMs to tell you how I really feel! Haha!


Post enhanced with free VIP posting status.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

ziggirocco said:


> Looking good Fred, the forums have been a bit slow
> 
> Always cool stuff in your garage, but wondering why go with this alternator setup? Might be ignorant of me but ?? What am I missing.
> 
> ...


Its basically clearance;
Since I cut up the rad support that houses the front engine mount, I had to make a front steel sub-structure, independent of the rad support, in order to take the forces on the front engine mount; So I triagulated some steel bars, thus reducing front end clearance for the alternator...

The weight saved on the alternator, is actually transmitted to the front rad support beefed up fabbed piece...
Cheers!
Fred


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

*SPLITTER!!!*


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## gamblinfool (Sep 28, 2001)

Don't walk near that thing with shorts on!! :beer:


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## d-bot (Sep 6, 2004)

gamblinfool said:


> Don't walk near that thing with shorts on!! :beer:


Srsly! Super cool though. Requires "forza motorsport" approved adjusters


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## ziggirocco (Dec 13, 2010)

The new "ankle slap chop!"



Misspelled by my iPhone using Slaptalk!


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Blend paltes for the transition from splitter to fender flares finished.
As for the ankle chopper, I already have some black vacuum hose, that I want to split open, and put as a molding to prevent injury


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## petebee (Jul 8, 2006)

fredybender said:


> As for the ankle chopper, I already have some black vacuum hose, that I want to split open, and put as a molding to prevent injury


Yeah that sounds prudent...I can imagine Fred going to check the oil and forgetting about the blade at the lower edge of his car...not a good shin picture :what:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Woohoo!!! car is on its wheels!!!

Ankle chopper fixed 
car is now on the ground.
Plenty done to it this week end, just waiting on my stupid VWMS CAE shifter 
ordered the #%**& !! thing beginning of November, paid in full!
I want to go to alignnement soon, so I can go to the dyno 

Still need to get ride height correct on all 4 corners.


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## LubsDaDubs (Apr 6, 2004)

schwinggg


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

I *LOVE* ball joint extenders !!!


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## ziggirocco (Dec 13, 2010)

Very nice work Fred!!


Misspelled by my iPhone using Slaptalk!


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## Lord_Verminaard (Apr 6, 2004)

Looks amazing!!

Brendan


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

A Friday night grooving my rain tires...
Just a nice relax night, that I decided to take on a slow paced task...

Got some R888 for the track car, for rain tires. As I could read they are not the best for the rain, but the compound is good. So decided to do them some groovin.

First pic is the stock R88
Second pic, every second groove does not reach outer edge of tire: Grooved to the edge.
Third pic, all grooves do not go to center, so small grooves done past center line.
Forth pic, comparison.


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## Doug T (Dec 20, 2003)

That looks cool as long as the standing water is about 3mm or less. The tires are so wide you may float even with the cool groves. Let me know how it works.


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## handyalbert11 (Nov 22, 2007)

Wow that is a lot of time and skill right there. Great work with the tires.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

@Doug:
I Will let you know how they turn out 

I finished grooving them today; final result:


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## 868valver (Nov 3, 2009)

Good luck at the track this year Fred!opcorn:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

decided to go a bgit further in the thread grooving...
Final product:


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## Doug T (Dec 20, 2003)

Hope that works because I like it.


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## onurB (Nov 4, 2010)

Fred: a resourceful man.
:thumbup:


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## Grig85 (Feb 11, 2006)

this needs some BBS motorsports instead of steelies dude


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Grig85 said:


> this needs some BBS motorsports instead of steelies dude


I know 
BBS Motorsports :heart:
Wallet = :facepalm:


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## Doug T (Dec 20, 2003)

Naaaaaa BBS are way over rated. You can get some great wheels for 1/2 the price or less. 

My track work horse wheels are lighter and stronger than most BBS wheels and cost much less.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Doug T said:


> Naaaaaa BBS are way over rated. You can get some great wheels for 1/2 the price or less.
> 
> My track work horse wheels are lighter and stronger than most BBS wheels and cost much less.


My problem is the size & offset: I'm running 14X8 et8
Choice is limited to steelies, Work Equip 03's, and BBS motorsport E76's... There's a set in Halifax N.S. for sale... Must re...sist...!!! 11.8 lbs...

I want to try to stay away from spacers on the track car.


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## Doug T (Dec 20, 2003)

14 X 8s with any offset you want for $407.91 - $443.38 each 

http://www.kodiakracingwheels.com/prices.html


























And:
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tpc=Bogart-Road-Race-10-Wheels-14&form_prod_id=1258&action=product


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## Grig85 (Feb 11, 2006)

those e76s are a smoking deal Freddie


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Ok, time for some porn...
I have been waiting since November for this...
Car will be ready for alignment for Easter


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## Brycejoseph (Jul 9, 2008)

fredybender said:


> Ok, time for some porn...





Wow! How much did that Beaut run?!?! Cause I want one bad now


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Brycejoseph said:


> Wow! How much did that Beaut run?!?! Cause I want one bad now


Lead time is between 8-12 weeks, nothing to be done to get them faster.
USRT are one of the US distributor for CAE

http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_75&products_id=437


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Final adjustments on rear end


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## SMKYDUB (Apr 1, 2008)

nice work on this car, love it

if you don't mind me asking (and maybe you already posted it and I missed it) what spring rates do you run?


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## BHolmes (May 15, 2012)

Amazing build!! I just spent the last 2 hours reading this from beginning to end. Thank you for building such an amazing Scirocco :thumbup:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

SMKYDUB said:


> nice work on this car, love it
> 
> if you don't mind me asking (and maybe you already posted it and I missed it) what spring rates do you run?


Thanks for the good comments, 
spring rates
(remember car is lighter too...)
front 370lbs
rear 342 lbs


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## d-bot (Sep 6, 2004)

Nice hockey pucks... errr camber/toe spacers!  Is that the home mill?


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

yep


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Took out the Rocco for a test & tune yesterday night:
I need to make a better set for the breather, it spits out a liter of oil witihin 10 minutes 
You can see the oil still dripping on the garage floor...

The engine pulls a bit stronger than last year, and the dog box is really nice!

I know I am faster, as the wind actually ripped out the fron left fender in the straight...
Vid: Sorry about the bad lighting, and for the pics, you can see, it got ripped out with the wind force...

I got to 220km/h+ in 5th on the straight, according to the RPM, and the Quaife speed calculator.
Never punched the 6th speed...


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

Bummer.


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## MickR (Jan 27, 2011)

Good thing they let you walk out there and go get the piece!


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## prom king (Aug 14, 2004)

How is the beast? I'm looking through this for inspiration I'm wiring my car and carb setup tonight lol


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Last time I took the car out in Shannonville, the 36-1 trigger wheel that I welded to the center of a crank pulley, decided to shatter itself!

So it took with it, the crank sensor, the bracket, and damaged the timing belt, but it didn't skip a teeth :thumbup:

So I am in the process of machining another pulley, another bracket, and I have just sourced an EDIS 4 36-1 trigger wheel off an older Focus.

Its been kind of "grounded" lately; as I am finishing up my shop remodel, and all my organizational stuuf with the garage, the shed & the shop.

Pics to be here soon!

But if you want some more on the carbs, you can also see my "street" car thread; Euclid also runs Webers


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## Cushy (Oct 16, 2008)

:heart: everything about this car. Ideal. Im presuming that you own a lathe at your house since you do so much machining?opcorn:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

OMG!!!

I just measured the lift on the camshaft with a dial indicator at the lifters, to verify cameshaft timing...
276 /110 Schrick specifies 0.094" lift @ TDC

just measured 0.009" at TDC, and tried to do the whole 2012 season with that :facepalm:

Posting pics soon on the 2012 upgrades!

Cheers!
Fred


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Cushy said:


> :heart: everything about this car. Ideal. Im presuming that you own a lathe at your house since you do so much machining?opcorn:


Yes and I do enjoy tools & tooling


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Winter time! 
Time for working on the track toy! 

Started by retiming my cams (with the Frankenstein engine my timing marks are out the window, and I just want to set everything right; 
Timed my 276 Schricks with a dial indicator. At TDC (Intake TDC, NOT explosion TDC) the intake valve for #1 cylinder is supposed to be open 0.094" 
Checked what I had: 0.009" :screwy: Meaning I ran all of last year with 2 gears retard on my cam :what: 

OK, thats it for that little screw up, but also my trigger wheel set up needs to be adressed. 
My Ford trigger wheel that was welded on my crank pulley, decided to explode last year, and take away the Crank pos, sensor, and my sensor bracket. I made another one, but stayed with the Ford Pulley that was modified to go on top of the 16V damper, but that one decided to "unpress" itself from the hub, giving me 90 degrees retard on my spark:facepalm: 

So I machined myself a bulletproof bracket, to accept a new sensor, and I am in the process of machining a trigger wheel to fit on the 16V crank pulley. 

I am also in the middle of re-engineering the suspension geometry. 

Keep you guys posted.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Crank trigger wheel machined (bought & counterbored) , 16V pulley / Damper machined (drilled & tapped on the bolt circle of the trigger wheel) 
Sensor aligned and ajusted at 1mm from teeth of trigger wheel. 

Hopefully, this set up, with beefing up all components, will pass the test of time!


----------



## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

The steering rack, even though I rebulit the thing in 2010, had some loose on the nylon bushing, that must have been helped by having 225 R compoounds...

So took out the old rack, and machined a new larger contact area bushing out of Nylatron.
The stock bushing is held in the rack with a groove, but I decided to secure it with fasteners.

I needed to take out the rear transmission mount, to access the steering rack bolts, and to my surprise, the poly mount is totally destroyed! 

I will also use Mk2 manual steering tie-rods, as they are just a bit longer, and will permit of having more threads in the heim joints, and on the steering rack.

I have also machined my outer tie-rod spacers, to eliminate bump steer.

p4C


----------



## d-bot (Sep 6, 2004)

Progress looks great Fred!


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## vee_dubb_ya (Dec 1, 2006)

wow, great work, and for better or worse, it's wild that the fender tore away just due to speed/wind...seems you need to start stamping your own super light aluminum fenders


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## Enter the chicken (Dec 11, 2011)

*Intermediate shaft*

Happy new year Fred! Just wondering what you did with the 9A intermediate shaft as I am building an ABA 16V turbo and am wondering if I should have it machined smooth or just leave it. I am also going to be using an Oettinger 2 piece oil sump which uses a longer oil pump drive shaft. Which happens to be for the old style pump (not splined). Soo...I have to get one made to fit. I was wondering if this longer shaft will put even more stress on the intermediate shaft. Also do you know where I can get some new metal fenders for my 80 Scirocco. Keep up the good work. You are such an inspiration to many!


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## 83mk2scirocco (Nov 13, 2008)

fredybender said:


> Crank trigger wheel machined (bought & counterbored) , 16V pulley / Damper machined (drilled & tapped on the bolt circle of the trigger wheel)
> Sensor aligned and ajusted at 1mm from teeth of trigger wheel.
> 
> Hopefully, this set up, with beefing up all components, will pass the test of time!


Wow very nice,Wow very nice.


----------



## 83mk2scirocco (Nov 13, 2008)

fredybender said:


> Final adjustments on rear end


Wow very nice.opps I already said that.
Sweet track scirocco.,That looks loads of great
Times,wrenching and driving your fabrications,
Love the rear shim set up.


----------



## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Enter the chicken said:


> Happy new year Fred! Just wondering what you did with the 9A intermediate shaft as I am building an ABA 16V turbo *and am wondering if I should have it machined smooth or just leave it*. I am also going to be using an Oettinger 2 piece oil sump which uses a longer oil pump drive shaft. Which happens to be for the old style pump (not splined). Soo...I have to get one made to fit. *I was wondering if this longer shaft will put even more stress on the intermediate shaft.* Also *do you know where I can get some new metal fenders for my 80 Scirocco*. Keep up the good work. You are such an inspiration to many!


If your intermediate shaft does not seem to have too much run out, leave it as is. If you do decide to have it machined, its very important to have a radius of at least 2mm on the transition from machined surface, to bearing diameter face. The longer shaft, will most probably have a lot less effect, than the volume / pressure output, the Oettinger pump is built for.
New metal fenders for a Mk1... Hens teeth my friend!


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

83mk2scirocco said:


> Wow very nice.opps I already said that.
> Sweet track scirocco.,That looks loads of great
> Times,wrenching and driving your fabrications,
> Love the rear shim set up.


 :thumbup::beer:


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## 83mk2scirocco (Nov 13, 2008)

Ahh, I see what the V2.1 is.
1 fast question.Did you make the crank shaft sensor bracket?
I am thinking if I can hide the Dist. via the EDIOUS coil pack on top of a wire tuck
with a smoothed out engine bay would look sweet.
If was hounding you I had no Idea.I think I remember posting on your posts in the past.
I took a fast look with no research what I was posting on.From now on I think before I post.
I had no Idea the level of the skills and fabricating you were capable of.
Looks Like your are living a dream.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

83mk2scirocco said:


> Ahh, I see what the V2.1 is.
> 1 fast question.Did you make the crank shaft sensor bracket?
> I am thinking if I can hide the Dist. via the EDIOUS coil pack on top of a wire tuck
> with a smoothed out engine bay would look sweet.
> ...


Yep made the bracket from 6061-T6 material, and no hounding from your part / no worries...


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## gtiing (Apr 20, 2002)

Unreal build, unreal car. This thing is amazing, maybe one day I'll be able to build a car like this... :beer:


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## 83mk2scirocco (Nov 13, 2008)

fredybender said:


> Yep made the bracket from 6061-T6 material, and no hounding from your part / no worries...


Ok cool,I seen a picture of piston.
And told the person that it looked like a cruise missile poking out of a silo.
:bs:no more bump steer.:wave:


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## 83mk2scirocco (Nov 13, 2008)

So in the sig.
"or bust out the roc'n $cirocco lets roll"
I tried to quote gtiing


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Wll its been a while, but car is fully re-timed, starts fine, runs smooth. 
New transmission mount in, Mk2 manual steering tie rod ends (longer for widened track) installed. 
Bushings to offset tie-rod (rod-end to minimise bump steer, installed, and a few more odds and ends done. 

Dyno time has been scheduled for next Friday night: Megajolt tuning time... 

For sh!ts and giggles, I decided that the car would really look awsome with a set of sideskirts to go with the widebody kit... 

I struggled with a few ideas, and looked at getting local shop brake me some 0.063" aluminum, and then ... figured out, this other solution, would actually look good: 
Had some leftover eavesthrough form the garage build, and flipped it upside down. The width, radii and overall form, matched so well with the flares, I was impressed! 

So bought 2 lengths of vinyl eavesthrough (8.00$  ) sanded them a bit, primered them with plastic primer, and painted them with eurthane L97A to match the car. 
Took about 2 hours each side, to match the contour, but all worth it! 

The way they are held is good for now I think, one more screw at each end will solidify theses assemblies enough for track use (I hope) 

On with pics! 

Started with this 
 




To get this!!!


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## crazyaboutrocs (Nov 23, 2005)

Wow, they look amazing. I never would have thought gutter would look good. 
:thumbup:


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## ziggirocco (Dec 13, 2010)

*Projet Fredybender V2.1 : NA with an attitude for the track... A sister for Euc*

Looks good Fred!


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## rabbitnothopper (Oct 19, 2009)

hey hey mr yellow lab coat

nice type 53

keep up the good track work


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Opened up the dog box, as I wanted to change 5th & 6th gear (both too long IMO) because the tracks I visit, never have 240km/h stretches...

I had a friend help me out, and he had a couple of spares for that box.

As we opened up his boxes, he just remembered, that he had a 4.64 FD 
I had a 4.16 FD in my box on the VWMS LSD

So, We ended up by leaving the 5th & 6th, and changing the FD to 4.64 Changed the ring gear, and output shaft

This coupled with my tire sizes, and 7000RPM shift point should yeild a 208Km/h top speed, which is just about right, for the longest straights, in the tracks I go to. I can stretch my redline to 7200, which will bring it up a few more km/h...

I will be going to Tremblant on the 11th of september, and I still have a bunch of stuff to do on the car; The keyway broke in my exhast cam, so I need to change the sprocket, and exhaust cam (already here, thanks to Collin at TT) I also need to change my seat belts, for some Schroth pull up type (also here) double check some wiring etc...

Just a few pics of the dog box 
BTW the pink stuff is Red Line HD heavy gear oil (gears were not yet washed...)


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## Lord_Verminaard (Apr 6, 2004)

Transmission porn!

Looks amazing, can't wait to see a vid of it ripping it up with the new cams and shorter box.

Brendan


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## onurB (Nov 4, 2010)

Fred's stuff are someway always porn


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

First, a little video from end of june at Shannonville Motorsport Park (posted in another thread, but thought I would put it here too)

Didn't have time to edit...
From 0:40- 2:45 pits
2:45 - 4:25 Warm up
4:25 passing a 16V turbo Rabbit 
7:35 Catching up to Z06
9:20 passing Z06 :wave: 






A lot of hours lately on the car:
I finally ended up by finishing putting back together the dog box, and changing the final drive ( The ring gear was so big, that I had to machine the inside of the housing to clear the OD of the gear  Standard procedure recommended by quaife, when fitting a 4.64 or a 5.09 FD) 

I also changed the exhaust cam and pulley (broken keyway) and timed the cams with a dial indicator as suggested by Schrick (intake valve on #1 cylinder has to be opened 0.098" at intake TDC) I am within 0.001" of that tolerance 

I changed to Schroth clip on harnesses, and pull-up adjustement, with proper 3" shoulder belts.

Changed to Brembo slotted rotors and Carbo-Tech XP-20 race compound pads.

Lots of stuff done too much to enumerate in details...

On to pics


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## Fleischwagen (Oct 22, 2006)

I absolutely love this car :beer:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Thanks for the comments :thumbup::beer:

Little video of le Circuit Mont-Tremblant from yesterday.
This track takes major steel balls... 
I had to quit after 6 minutes of that heat: oil leak & got black flagged because of it.


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## zac16V (Dec 16, 2005)

Nice video...car...work...
I didn't know Tremblant was open to the public, I tought it was for the por$he dude. Looks like a fast/fun track!


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

zac16V said:


> Nice video...car...work...
> I didn't know Tremblant was open to the public, I tought it was for the por$he dude. Looks like a fast/fun track!


Not open to the public:
On invitation


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## zac16V (Dec 16, 2005)

Ha! Thank you for the clarification, I was already seeing myself driving there...it's going to take couple of years before my scirocco is invitation friendly


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## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

fredybender said:


> First, a little video from end of june at Shannonville Motorsport Park


are you allowed to pass on the cool down lap :laugh:

wow dude.. one of my fav threads on here :beer:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

At last! Time in the garage!!!
I bought a new computer for my son Gabriel for X-mas, and "stole" his old one so I can have one in the garage. Il ike the set-up !



Since the last 2 seasons were less than satisfactory, I have decided to remedy to the situation.

I have now commited on doing the following in the next few weeks:

Bought another ABA OBD1 block, and will be making it 83mm bore instead, making it 2066cc instead of the previous 2116cc's
New Wossner to be ordered, as sonn as I sell enough steering bearings ; most of my car money tied up in them, at the moment. 

Dzus fastened Lexan 3mm front windows will replace the 5mm with slide outs I have presently.

replacing a few heim joints on the front suspension

Cutting the floor boards (foot rests) so I can weld in reinforcement oint the floor where the suspension A arms anchor in the back.

Painting, and installing the fiberlass hood.

Cutting out the front rad support, and making a removable one, like a Mk3. 

Changing all the radiator hoses (with hardware type elbows) to braided lines, and AN fittings

A few more odds and ends, but on with pics, or it didn't happen 
BTW the phone pics are a lot less better quality, then usual; when I have my real camera...


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## PA 16v (Nov 5, 2001)

*Beau projet...*

Salut Fred, si jamais tu as besoin de deux mains pour continuer ou accélérer ton projet, fais-moi signe. Je suis à Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu. Toi?

On a un set-up moteur semblable. Tu peux voir mes specs ici : http://www.parts4vws.com/registry/registry_detail.asp?MemberCarID=3506

Une petite question, que veux dire « p4c »?


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

J'habitait St-jean il y a 5 ans... Je suis a Ste-Julie.
p4c = Pics for clics 

Surgery has begun... Muahhhaaa!!!

Decide to attack the removable front clip project first: Since the engine work will not start until after the holidays, minus well chop up the front so all the measurements and front motor are still in place to fabricate stuff.

Drilled out all the spot welds on the front clip. I wanted to keep the top shelf, and lower valence skin intact; they will be attached to the new removable front cross member; the sheet metal is so lightt weight, and the fact that I can attach the light buckets, grille, and lower kamei spoiler to that seetmetal, with keeping the things where they should be, makes this decision easier. I also detached the top part from the lower part; They will be joined back later.


Lower part cut out:




NOw doesn't this look clean, and easy to work on ? 



Unwanted weight, and makes accesibility a pain ...



Top shelf will be attached with Dzus fasteners to the remainder of the sheetmetal I left on both side, that are still attached to the car. I left about 2 inches, in order to squeeze in 4 Dzus total; 2 on each side.



Again, isn't this nice to look at ? 


Captive nut plates TIG welded, and then attached in the inside of the frame horns with a few tacks with the MIG both on the outside, and the inside. The removable cross memeber will attach to those anchor points.




Thats it for today


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## PA 16v (Nov 5, 2001)

fredybender said:


> Lower part cut out:


Ah the similarities, I have a Scirocco (MK2) 2.1L with carbs, an 83 Jetta (diesel sedan) and had a Derbi GPR. Now back to your project...

I'm guessing you will integrate reinforcements in the front fenders and make them part of the front clip?


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## Lord_Verminaard (Apr 6, 2004)

Brilliant! I have been dreaming of doing this very same thing. My upper-core support got wanged up at one point so I am not loosing much cutting it out and making it removable. Can't wait until the finished product.

Brendan


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

PA 16v said:


> I'm guessing you will integrate reinforcements in the front fenders and make them part of the front clip?


I will see how much the fender sides need reinforcement, nothing planned ahead. The strut towers, are already joined to the roll cage with DOM 1.750 X 0.095 tube.

The front clip will be similar to Geatan Hayot's Mk1 golf; his design is my inspiration.
This is how he made his:


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## PA 16v (Nov 5, 2001)

fredybender said:


> Gaëtan Hayot's Mk1 golf


Wow, another amazing project.


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## ziggirocco (Dec 13, 2010)

*Projet Fredybender V2.1 : NA with an attitude for the track... A sister for E...*

That is very cool! What does the rabbit look like with the clip on?


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

ziggirocco said:


> That is very cool! What does the rabbit look like with the clip on?


http://www.gaetanhayot.com/photos.ws


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## ziggirocco (Dec 13, 2010)

*Projet Fredybender V2.1 : NA with an attitude for the track... A sister for E...*

Cool thanks!


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Just ordered:
for the complete front end, including hood, complete front fascia (engine compartment shelf, and grille support), & front spoiler:









Radiator from a L4-L6 cherokee : Real low, 3 rows,, and fits exactly between the front frame horns 
Overall Size: 35.00" x 11.50" x 2.50" Core Size: 31.00" x 11.25" x 2.00"










I have to wait until next monday, to continue: need 2X2 square tubing, but my supplier is closed until then.
There are a few things I can do meanwhile. 

Pic whoring week end in perspective


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## Grig85 (Feb 11, 2006)

you never stop to impress dude


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## fast bunny (Jan 4, 2004)

nice build!! it's always fun to see mk1 people pushing the envelope... **** bolt on mods...

one quick question, will you need to put quick disconnect on all stuff in front like radiator hose, oil cooler?? or they will stay in place on an front cross member and you will just pull out the front end leaving all the mechanic in place??


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## 20vRocc (Mar 19, 2006)

very impressive :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Time for a few springtime updates...
Car is still on the lift, and no work or almost was done to Dagomar, because of my many interests 

First, engine is out, I have a new ABA OBD1 block O/S'd and honed to 83.5 instead of the 84.00 I had before.
I also got some 83.50 high compression ABF pistons from Wossner, to fit them in.

As you can see on some of the pictures below, the pistons squish band area did come in contact with the head...
Nothing disastrous, but not the best scenario.

So I programmed a nice radiused releif on my CAM software, and loaded it in the lathe.
Voila, nice radii, and clearance.

I am planning to have a go at the car within a few weeks.
A lot still needs to get done.

On with pics, explanations, a even a video!

On this picture, you can see the 84mm piston and the interference it had with the head; Even though I did turn those down on my manual lathe, I could only do an angle, and it just wasn't enough to clear the head. You can also see the difference on the squish band area of the piston : The nice new radii machined and the flat angle on the older piston.



















You can see here, where the piston was hitting the head. Please note that this only occurs, because of the compound fact of 1- Stroker crank pushing the piston higher 2-the head and block have been decked 3-the Wossner high compression ratio pistons, do have more "meat" on them.




Workbench pretty well occupied at the moment 





This is showing the naked heartless beast ... Oh what a JOY it is to work in the engine bay without the cross member / rad support being in the way. Truely a marvelous upgrade! :thumbup:



And finally a little video of brand new pistons being hacked up my little me, in my basement shop


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

fast bunny said:


> nice build!! it's always fun to see mk1 people pushing the envelope... **** bolt on mods...
> 
> one quick question, will you need to put quick disconnect on all stuff in front like radiator hose, oil cooler?? or they will stay in place on an front cross member and you will just pull out the front end leaving all the mechanic in place??



I looked at the quick disconnect options, but for the price, nops, ain't going to happen. Mostly because of the coupelr size of the rad hoses.
They will stay in place on the front cross member.


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## aarron (Aug 11, 2013)

fredybender said:


> Time for a few springtime updates...
> Car is still on the lift, and no work or almost was done to Dagomar, because of my many interests


I for one, am thankful for your many other insterests like COLUMN BEARINGS!

Thanks again Fredy. :thumbup:


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## scirocco*joe (Feb 23, 2002)

Fred, I can't say enough what a f*cking treat it is to see you do work. 

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Bringing this back from the dead...

Worked on the track Rocco this past week end; It has been about 18 months since it last ran. I had a few scored cylinder, due to a broken intermediate shaft (oil pressure loss) Rebuilt another engine, and the project sat idle for another 10 months or so. I wanted to take out all the lights / electrical from the front end out, replace the hood, for a fibre one, make the rad support modular, and a few things here and there... Redid the coolant lines, replaced the Honda rad, by an OEM Scirocco one. Added dual fans, The front end is removable with 4 bolts, and the fascia now consists of the grille being integrated with the fiber hood, and the spoiler, is quickly removed with Dzus fasteners. The driver and passenger widows, will also be changed, for a thinner Lexan, and fixed on the door with Dzus fasteners, enabling running enclosed, or windows completely off. NACA ducts are getting installed on the rear side windows, to provide ventilation to the cabin.

Also building 14X8 custom one off directional wheels, to accommodate the big brake kit; I'm running 14X8 at the moment, but the Basset wheels have very poor spoke clearance, and don't want to invest in more tires... 



On with pictures


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## ziggirocco (Dec 13, 2010)

Looks way cool!!


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## MK1_F00L (Nov 13, 2001)

I love the removable front clip. Are those msw wheels? Look awesome what are the details on them


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

MK1_F00L said:


> I love the removable front clip. Are those msw wheels? Look awesome what are the details on them


Yes MSW Type 1901A directional.
Stamped date 1987. 
To make the proper offset, and width, I cut off 4 P-slot rear halves, and will be machining the front of the MSW, so the lips can be precisely mounted with machined faces on the MSWs, for welding in the added front lip.

I will then machine the face and lip, to blend them together.

As far as the P slots on the floor next to them, these will be 2pc custom 16X6.5 et28 4x100


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## Mk1Madness (Nov 8, 2009)

I've been brainstorming on the removable front clip for a while now.


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## AKscirocco (Dec 21, 2013)

just read the entire thread in one go, thoroughly enjoyable read! keep up the good work 

nice to see all the videos of the car in action. i love the sound man!!


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## 92_MK_2 (Oct 11, 2010)

Found my inspirational thread :beer::beer: thanks freddy


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## GXL (Mar 31, 1999)

Awesome thread!! 

I agree with some of the posters, the steel wheels are hideous. The black color is terrible, too. Get them painted gunmetal if you like them dark.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

auteck said:


> Awesome thread!!
> 
> I agree with some of the posters, the steel wheels are hideous. The black color is terrible, too. Get them painted gunmetal if you like them dark.


I have to agree, but this car is nothing, zero, zilch, about looks; 100% track dedicated. I will not paint something on that car, to change a color... 
The reason for these wheels, is tire size (circumference and contact patch) nothing out there exists, except BBS motorsport wheels. I am presently talking with BBS Motorsport at this point in time, but the invoice total is brutal. I'm still wondering to see if I'm going there. We're talking over a grand a wheel... I have been tryiing to find a 14X8 et5 wheels that clear my brake kits for over 2 years now, to no avail...


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Better now ?


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## echassin (Dec 28, 2005)

fredybender said:


> Better now ?


Yes 



fredybender said:


> this car is nothing, zero, zilch, about looks


Liar.

Funny to see this thread pop up. I was just on Youtube watching you blow past a Z06 :heart:


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