# DIY: Vac Reservoir Relocation & SAI Inlet Hose Edit



## ypsetihw (Nov 20, 2008)

So I got this idea after researching our engine control and emissions management systems extensively. I will eventually remove most of the systems like SAI, EVAP, and N249 and N112 specifically, but until then, I still want to clean up some of the lines and gain access to my pesky 4th coilpack . . .
I have never been able to find a DIY for editing these systems while leaving the bulk of the stock parts and functionality intact, so I decided to write one myself . . . I have revised this heavily with the help of the community, and have finally got all the pictures done. 
*Vac Res Relocation and Hose Edit*
For Vac Res relocation you will need (from any auto parts store):
- Snips for the factory crimp clamps (I hate these things)
- 4" length of 5/16" Fuel Line to use as coupler (I used fuel line because it is insulated and braided inside like the factory stuff, so it won't collapse, and it fit) <$1/ft
- 1ft 7/32" rubber vacuum line <$1
- 2 small hose clamps $.50/each
The Plan: 








1. Remove your upper and lower engine covers and locate the appropriate vacuum lines and connections. If you're stuck already, stop - go to vortex and read this over and over until it makes sense: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3111538
2. Now that you're edumacated and ready to go - remove the vacuum reservoir from the top of the valve cover (10mm nut - save for reuse on the battery cover) and cut the vac lines for the reservoir from the hardlines mounted to the drivers side of the block. You can then grab the hose nub with pliers and just pull it off (way easier than wrestling with the crimp clamp). 








3. Locate the other side of the hardline, it connects to the driver's side outermost hose coming out of the N249 bracket. Cut that hose, you'll notice it is only a few inches long, and pull off the ends with pliers. Be careful on the N249 side, the plastic nipple looks flimsy. 
This photo shows the nipple on the N249 where you would cap it off with a vac cap if you just want to delete the vac res or if you're like me and you need a stop gap until you get to Autozone . . . See the white vac cap and zip tie in the foreground?








4. Time to fab your new hoses - this might sound scary but take your vac res and twist and pull until the remaining hose comes out of the reservoir. It is connected to a shallow nipple connection that mates perfectly to 7/32" rubber vac line. 
Lightly lube the vac line with dish soap and let it drip out - slide it onto the nipple on the vac res and let it dry for a bit. It will make a great seal and act like glue. 
Lube the other end slightly on the outside, and slide it into the short length of fuel line. It should fit very snug and the soap will again lube and help it seal. Here's a closeup when I was done - it fits perfectly, holds vac, and is strong enough to handle a little pressure from a clamp. I'm not saying this is the right way or the best way, but it worked for me. I had a VERY hard time finding the right size fittings and splicers . . .








5. Secure the vacuum reservoir to the battery cover using salvaged bolts/nuts or something new from the store. Use the nut from the original bracket you saved above, and I found that a bolt from the original upper engine cover mounting brackets fits perfectly in the mysterious hole already in the side of the battery cover, and mates perfectly with the nut. If you want, throw a washer in between the nut/bolt and plastic cover. 








6. Run the new line directly from the vac res outlet on the N249 about 8 inches right across to the relocated reservoir. If you want to run the engine covers, make sure your new vac line is long enough to go under/over the lower cover. 
7. Attach the new DIY vac hose and reducer to the N249 nipple using a couple small band clamps. No need to cap the hardline because you disconnected both ends of it (you can remove them entirely later when you delete the other systems, but the hardlines are welded together, so it is all or nothing). 








6. Remove Vac Res bracket from the VC (3x 5mm allen bolts) and enjoy!

















*SAI Inlet Hose Edit (optional if you replace/remove the stock airbox)*
For SAI hose edit you will need:
-10mm socket and ratchet (if you don't wanna remove the N249 bracket)
-Big Scissors
-4" length of vinyl tubing (approx 1" ID, whatever fits snug, ace hardware) <$1
-piece of foam to act as a filter (find something for free)
-zip ties








1. Rip out the airbox and replace it with whatever you want. When you do that, you end up with a huge long piece of the SAI inlet hose (which normally connects to the airbox) flopping around in the engine bay, which is ugly, loud, and can cause issues if it gets stuck in your shifter. So . . . lets rip it out!
2. Remove the lower engine cover if you wish, just to give yourself a little more room. Feel around under the N249 bracket for a 10mm nut on a long bolt right in the middle of the bracket. Use your deep socket to get it out of there, and the hose will disconnect from the bracket in the middle. 
3. Reach down by the alternator and snip the hose off just above where it connects to the outlet hose by a little plastic clip. Also, if you intend to the use the airbox end to affix/fab your filter, snip it off as well. Here's a picture of the clip, it will keep everything snug and upright after you trim:








4. I had a hard time finding a decent barb splice or alternative that would work to connect the two ends of hose. I ended up using a piece of 1" ID (I think) clear vinyl hose from ace hardware. Buy a 4" piece or so, should be less than $1. 








5. Cram and twist that vinyl connector into the SAI inlet hose nub you just cut until it is about halfway in there. Now, cram the nub that you cut off of the airbox end to make your filter onto the other side. 
6. Voila! A nice little breather nub next to the throttle body, and all that ugly hose is gone!










_Modified by ypsetihw at 7:11 AM 6-9-2009_


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## tainted_demon (Aug 8, 2008)

Already 1 step ahead of you


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## ypsetihw (Nov 20, 2008)

*Re: (tainted_demon)*

hot sauce - yeah I didn't buy a little filter thingy cause $10 seemed like a lot to dish out when the piece of foam was free


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## xXGti2006Xx (Feb 14, 2006)

you can actually pop the hose off at the SAI pump and pop a filter right on there too. Also no need to tee a new hose to the vacuum reservoir, the hose pulls out of it and theres a nipple on the main reservoir, you can directly connect it and make a better connection


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## ypsetihw (Nov 20, 2008)

*Re: (xXGti2006Xx)*

I looked into this, but I didn't have enough stock hose left on the vac res to mount it anywhere. Also, the outlet of the n249 appears to be 5/16", which is why I chose that size hose, and the vac tube on the res looks to be 3/16". Do you mean I can rip the hose right out of the vac res? I was very afraid to do this . . .
(I know they are actually something in metric, but I can't find metric at the local parts store meh . . .)
I crammed and twisted and lubed as much as I could, but couldn't get my 5/16" barb splicer on the hose I cut from the vac res to the hardline (nor would I be able to get the n249 nub on there either). You really need to find a 5/16" to 3/16" reducer to connect the hoses the way I did, which was a bit of a pain. 
The whole process of finding one of those left me with a vac cap over the whole vac res line anyway, and it worked perfectly fine like that. Made me wonder why I went through all the trouble to rig it up instead of just ripping it all off 











_Modified by ypsetihw at 8:05 PM 6-7-2009_


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

*FV-QR*

Why don't you remove the vac reservoir? You don't need it just makes the DV act like 4/10th's of a second faster. The SAI too you dont need just rip all that ish out and make your car happy.


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## xXGti2006Xx (Feb 14, 2006)

The hose on the actual resevoir pulls out, its a nipple connection. I was scared too but said F it and did it one day since i was deleting it. I had no ill effects deleting it by itself as well


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## ypsetihw (Nov 20, 2008)

*Re: (xXGti2006Xx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *xXGti2006Xx* »_The hose on the actual resevoir pulls out, its a nipple connection. 

Thanks everyone for the help! I've actually significantly changed how I did this originally based on all the great feedback I got here. And yes, it does pull right out, SO MUCH EASIER!!!
I will revise my DIY and post pics as soon as I'm finished changing it out.


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## ypsetihw (Nov 20, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (ejg3855)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ejg3855* »_Why don't you remove the vac reservoir? You don't need it just makes the DV act like 4/10th's of a second faster. The SAI too you dont need just rip all that ish out and make your car happy. 

I want to keep the vac res because unless you delete the n249, it definitely impacts the performance of the system. There is no saved up vac to snap the DV open, and the n249 is in the way of it snapping hard from manifold vac. 
It reacts noticeably slower, and there are two distinct stages to the recirc sound without the vac res, more like a whip crack "psssh-CHEET" instead of that nice strong fast "CHIRP!" it has with the res on there. 
I didn't delete SAI cause I hate CELs http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *ypsetihw* »_
It reacts noticeably slower, and there are two distinct stages to the recirc sound without the vac res, more like a whip crack "psssh-CHEET" instead of that nice strong fast "CHIRP!" it has with the res on there. 


I agree with the SAI and CEL, but I disagree with the above comment. I have driven my car in both configurations and there is ZERO performance difference. I currently run the DV straight off the intake manifold now and it reacts sooner than it used. Due to the removal of N249 and the response times associated with that system.


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## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

just remove it all you dont need a n249 or any of that crap


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## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

*Re: (xXGti2006Xx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *xXGti2006Xx* »_you can actually pop the hose off at the SAI pump and pop a filter right on there too. Also no need to tee a new hose to the vacuum reservoir, the hose pulls out of it and theres a nipple on the main reservoir, you can directly connect it and make a better connection

pic please... also did your use an intermediate hose to connect the filter with the SAI pump?


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## tainted_demon (Aug 8, 2008)

*Re: (Imola Yellow GTi)*

As requested by Imola Yellow GTi this is what I did for my mod.
I took a piece of 1" OD (outside diameter) tubing about 5.5" long and put it inside the filter and secured it with a hose clamp.








Next I cut off the entire SAI inlet hose just above the first plastic clamp.








Then take your filter, clamp and hose assembly and slide it inside the existing SAI inlet hose.








Push it all the way down, and clip it in. Done!









I've been running it like this for about 6 months now, no problem. Easy mod for those that want to do some quick clean up right off the bat.


_Modified by tainted_demon at 5:10 PM 6-8-2009_


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## oj1480 (Jun 6, 2006)

nice


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## ypsetihw (Nov 20, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (ejg3855)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ejg3855* »_
I have driven my car in both configurations and there is ZERO performance difference. I currently run the DV straight off the intake manifold now and it reacts sooner than it used. Due to the removal of N249 and the response times associated with that system. 

I did not delete the N249 or bypass it, I simply removed the vac reservoir from the system, but let it continue to operate. As a result, there was not enough stored vac in the line to snap the DV open when the N249 triggered and there was a noticeable delay until manifold vac took over. 
Yes, if you connect directly to the manifold, you will not have this problem. Only if you delete the vac res without bypassing N249. Also, I have a forge 007 DV oriented with the boost on the piston side, and I'm running APR 93. Maybe not every combination will experience this, but mine did.


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## ypsetihw (Nov 20, 2008)

*Re: (tainted_demon)*

HA when did you take those pics? You came up with EXACTLY the same thing I did. I swear if you had that DIY up already I didn't read it lol . . . 
Also bump cause I'm done with revisions . . .


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## tainted_demon (Aug 8, 2008)

*Re: (ypsetihw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ypsetihw* »_HA when did you take those pics? You came up with EXACTLY the same thing I did. I swear if you had that DIY up already I didn't read it lol . . . 
Also bump cause I'm done with revisions . . .









I took those pics last night and posted them as requested. I did the mod about 6 months ago when I got my car, because I thought it was for a different system... I've learned a lot about my car over that time but it's still nice to have that hose removed, for the most part


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## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

*Re: (tainted_demon)*

any con to mounting the filter right on the SAI pump so one could go back to stock if need be?
also do those smalelr k&n breathers require oiling? if so, anything else in the market with similar construction not requiring re-oiling? i don't want to muck up the SAI pump by building up oil and reducing its longevity.


_Modified by Imola Yellow GTi at 7:08 PM 6-9-2009_


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## ypsetihw (Nov 20, 2008)

*Re: (Imola Yellow GTi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Imola Yellow GTi* »_any con to mounting the filting right on the SAI pump so one could go back to stock if need be?
also do those smalelr k&n breathers require oiling? if so, anything else in the market with similar construction not requiring re-oiling? i don't want to muck up the SAI pump by building up oil and reducing its longevity.

only con I could think of is having the filter element that close to the road with all the dirt, dust, grime, etc. 
I don't think any of those little filters require oil


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## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

*Re: (ypsetihw)*

do you have the model number for that k&n filter? thanks!


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## ypsetihw (Nov 20, 2008)

*Re: (Imola Yellow GTi)*

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW
ebay ftw


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## tainted_demon (Aug 8, 2008)

*Re: (ypsetihw)*

This is the filter I'm running:








K&N PN: 62-1370
URL: http://www.knfilters.com/searc...-1370


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## bootymac (Apr 19, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *ypsetihw* »_
Thanks everyone for the help! I've actually significantly changed how I did this originally based on all the great feedback I got here. And yes, it does pull right out, SO MUCH EASIER!!!


So the 7/32" hose fits snugly into the vacuum reservoir after you remove the original line?
Good DIY! I've been meaning to relocate mine, but never got around to it.


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## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (bootymac)*

I'm thinking about replacing the vac res with a small cylinder secured under the bracket plate.


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## ypsetihw (Nov 20, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (bootymac)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bootymac* »_
So the 7/32" hose fits snugly into the vacuum reservoir after you remove the original line?
Good DIY! I've been meaning to relocate mine, but never got around to it.

yeah I just tried a bunch of stuff at autozone until I found something that fit. the 7/32" line made a perfect snug seal and also happened to fit perfectly into the 5/16" fuel line . . . match made in heaven. 
I've been driving on it for a few days now, snug as a bug. also you can tell the vac is back, and the DV snaps again. 
I ended up buying a new bolt and butterfly nut and washers for $2 at ace today and sprucing up my mount job so that you can remove it by hand if you need to get at the battery. 
Also, thanks, I've learned so much from here and I'm just trying to give back. If even one person gets something outta this I'm happy http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by ypsetihw at 10:48 PM 6-9-2009_


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## ypsetihw (Nov 20, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Imola Yellow GTi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Imola Yellow GTi* »_I'm thinking about replacing the vac res with a small cylinder secured under the bracket plate.

neat, yeah any small vac sealed container would work. I guess you could pretty much fab it out of anything, and run the lines anywhere in the bay, easily securing it outta sight if you want. 
I just went with recycled parts from the bay and a hole that was already there cause it was easy


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## iamabootdisk (Apr 29, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (ypsetihw)*

just did this, but with a different twist.
I didn't delete anything, or take out any hard lines, or plug any holes. 
I simply relocated the reservoir to the firewall instead. There are two bolts sticking out. I put the reservoir on the left bolt and I was still able to use the nut that held reservoir down. 
If you look closely you can see where I coupled it with the mentioned 7/32" and 5/16" hoses. 










_Modified by iamabootdisk at 12:48 PM 8-14-2009_


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## ryannorris16 (Apr 7, 2008)

Just cut it off and cap/ tuck the vac line. That resevoir isn't needed.


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## The*Fall*Guy (Aug 10, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Vac Reservoir Relocation & SAI Inlet Hose Edit (ypsetihw)*

It appears that you put much time and effort into this. For that I applaud you...
But..
There is no point to any of this unless you live in California.. The vacum resevoirs purpose is to make up for the lack of response caused by a mile of useless vacum lines running every wich way under the hood. If you remove all that junk; you don't need it. The removal will cause zero issues as long as everything is resistored off....
Now if you were trying to retain the sai system, and clean it up that would make sense, because the sai removal causes an improper flow code that cannot be resolved without a delete flash...
That being said.. I see no point to this..


_Modified by The*Fall*Guy at 6:39 AM 8-16-2009_


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## Vettes Volvos and VWs (Mar 6, 2006)

I love this, I've been looking to get rid of that god awful SAI pipe for ages. Should the hole in the airbox be capped? I assume this will throw no CELs? I've already ditched the N249 and vac res. Hate to bump an old thread, I'm just curious


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Added to 1.8t FAQ under "Deletes"


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