# Common Issues



## orange1218 (Mar 23, 2007)

Hey 2.5L Tech forum! There is a new addition to my VW family, so of course I want to do some research.
My wife just bought an 08 Rabbit 2.5L 6sp auto (non-dsg). Pics soon, but it's pretty basic. What are some common issues with this engine and/or trans? I looked through the FAQ, but it was mostly filled with links for aftermarket parts. Not really much in the way of DIY








I'm familiar with the art of flaming for asking stupid questions...so gimme a search term and I'll take it from there.
Cheers!


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## IJSTROK (Oct 2, 2007)

*Re: Common Issues (orange1218)*

Common issues seem to be premature rear break pad wear (around 10k-20k miles), airbag sensor fault (also usually before 20k miles), and rattles from just about everywhere. All are fixable by the dealer under warranty except the rattles seem to be an easier diy. There might be more but those are the only ones I experienced and see often in here. I too have the 6spd tiptronic transmission and haven't had one issue. It's a great car!


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## jettafan[atic] (Dec 2, 2008)

*Re: Common Issues (orange1218)*

Like was already said the issues are very minor, no transmission meltdowns or catastrophic engine failures. From what I've seen and experience firsthand this is a great motor. And I dunno if the rattles are just in the rabbits but I have firmer engine and trans mounts in mine as well as 2 12" subs and I still don't have many interior rattles. (when I have the volume turned down at least)


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## orange1218 (Mar 23, 2007)

*Re: Common Issues (jettafan[atic])*


_Quote, originally posted by *jettafan[atic* »_]From what I've seen and experience firsthand this is a great motor. 

So I'm a bit surprised to hear this since I come from the land of 24v...water pumps, green top sensors, crack pipes, etc. Rattles suck, but they won't bother me since I won't drive the car much. Keep those insights coming...I'm a vortex junkie when it comes to learning a new VW engine.
BTW, I'm surprised this engine doesn't make more power (I see it's about 170hp/170tq). Any recommended reading why that is?


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## LampyB (Apr 2, 2007)

i've got an '08 5spd rabbit, no issues at 42K miles so far! i'm pretty happy about the timing chain too, instead of a rubber belt. i did quite a bit of research before purchasing my car with 35K miles on it and no one had anything bad to say. there's people here with '08's that have over 75K miles without any major issues. keep up on the maintenance and this may be one of the most reliable VW's to date!


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## david8814 (Aug 14, 2007)

Rattles galore (on HARD suspension, stiffened mounts, and loud exhaust...) from: driver's seatbelt assembly, rear seats (somewhere in passenger side, upper area), and headliner on driver's side covering the curtain airbag.


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## undercoverdubber (Aug 24, 2008)

*Re: (david8814)*


_Quote, originally posted by *david8814* »_Rattles galore (on HARD suspension, stiffened mounts, and loud exhaust...) 

x2 but bone stock w/17" denvers at 6K on the odometer. I found that one odd rattle coming from the passenger side is actually the passenger seat. Pressing the seat in the thoracic area completely eleminates the noise


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## kungfoojesus (Jan 10, 2005)

*Re: Common Issues (orange1218)*


_Quote, originally posted by *orange1218* »_
So I'm a bit surprised to hear this since I come from the land of 24v...water pumps, green top sensors, crack pipes, etc. Rattles suck, but they won't bother me since I won't drive the car much. Keep those insights coming...I'm a vortex junkie when it comes to learning a new VW engine.
BTW, I'm surprised this engine doesn't make more power (I see it's about 170hp/170tq). Any recommended reading why that is?

It makes more power than a 12v vr6 or early 1.8t, no parasitic drains from electrical steering. All considered, for an "economy" engine it is incredible power wise!
The 24v is a great engine too! Can't believe you've had problems with all those parts. I've had zero issues with my 24v.
As far as common issues, some have bad rear brake issues, stretched timing chains, head gaskets (there's only one right now which means revisions are coming, only fix involves tons of sealants and a stock gasket), and the stupid air bag issues (rare). As far as rattles, well the mk4 is a pile of poop compared to the mk5. Build quality has improved greatly and you'll be happy to know the peeling interiors, rattles, and security issues of the mk4 no longer exist in the mk5 platform. Not to that extent anyway.
No idea why this car doesn't make more power, can't help ya there. Considering the 12v 2.8 makes the same I understand why you would question the measly 170hp of a 20v 2.5. This engine is still very new and the aftermarket is slow, just like with the vr6 engines in the past. It will pick up in time. This engine has more potential than any 24v (honestly).
Good luck with your new car, enjoy it and try not to be too biased/unfair toward the new VW. I know I was but over time it has grown on me. Especially the handling and suspension!!!


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## 07Wolfie (Oct 24, 2009)

As for the rear brakes, watch for improper parking brake cable adjustment. Lots of these cars left the factory with the cables just a tad too tight, which keeps the rear pads dragging on the rotors. The dealerships tend to be deliberately obtuse about this, I suspect VW's being very careful to avoid recall/liability issues. I gave up the warranty path, found a DIY, adjusted it properly, and the rear brakes stay nice and cool now. Get an extra 1 MPG, too.
VW faced a conflict when deploying this engine to the North American market. It was originally designed to require 91 octane fuel, and would have been tuned appropriately from the factory. However, the prospect of an entry-level sedan or hatchback with a base engine requiring premium fuel didn't sit well with the marketing department, and it was electronically detuned late in production (some 2006 and 2007 owner's manuals still specify 91 octane as a requirement). Mid-2007 saw a few physical improvements to squeeze a few more horses from 87 octane. Lots of people find, however, that it will still knock a little in hot weather with 87, so they use higher octane anyway. I am by no means a "tuner", and the closest my car will ever get to a racetrack is the parking lot. Having said that, though, the best money I've ever spent on this car was for a flash reprogramming of the ECU. I went with APR because of local availability, and other folks have had similarly good results with other companies. The reprogramming uploads new fuel/air maps, spark timing tables, algorithms from the Manhattan project, and I don't know what else... basically, it optimizes the engine's performance for the higher octane fuel that you were probably putting in there anyway. The improvement in driveability, fuel economy, and power is absolutely worth the money. Don't get me wrong, it's not an electronic turbo or anything, but 12 extra HP is noticeable. My particular setup is switchable, so I can easily switch between 87, 91, and 93 octane tunes using the cruise control buttons.
Good luck, and enjoy the Rabbit!


_Modified by 07Wolfie at 8:07 PM 11-3-2009_


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## IJSTROK (Oct 2, 2007)

*Re: (07Wolfie)*

I think the reason this engine (stock) is so detuned and not making as much power as it has potential for is because VW doesn't want it's base engine to be making as much power as the GTI. This engine with cams, headers, exhaust, software, intake, etc... makes nearly the same amount of power as a stock GTI. Here's an article that may help ease your mind on the 2.5 http://editorial.autos.msn.com...age=2


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## Unilateral Phase Detractor (Aug 23, 2005)

*Re: Common Issues (IJSTROK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *IJSTROK* »_Common issues seem to be premature rear break pad wear (around 10k-20k miles), airbag sensor fault (also usually before 20k miles), and rattles from just about everywhere. All are fixable by the dealer under warranty except the rattles seem to be an easier diy.

Those problems were mostly fixed by the 2008 model year.

_Quote, originally posted by *07Wolfie* »_
However, the prospect of an entry-level sedan or hatchback with a base engine requiring premium fuel didn't sit well with the marketing department, and it was electronically detuned late in production (some 2006 and 2007 owner's manuals still specify 91 octane as a requirement). Mid-2007 saw a few physical improvements to squeeze a few more horses from 87 octane. Lots of people find, however, that it will still knock a little in hot weather with 87, so they use higher octane anyway.

Indeed, I use 89 octane when the average temperature is above about 70°F because I can hear some knock going on and don't want to damage things.
FWIW, Consumer Reports now rates the Rabbit as "much better than average" in their reliability report and the Jetta is "better than average". Those ratings tend to signify that there really aren't any "common issues".


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## orange1218 (Mar 23, 2007)

*Re: Common Issues (kungfoojesus)*

Great reading! Thanks everyone, I'm glad to hear the overall consensus is that it's a good car/engine. I can handle minor repairs like brake cables and rattles!
I wasn't so sure on the CAI and chip (since it had minor effect on my 24v), but the wife doesn't have/want the same kind of power I do. I did convince her she needs a chip (she'll get better mpg right?







), so we'll probably go GIAC or C2 since Dubwerks if fairly close. 
Are CEL common with CAI? I've seen some kind of MAF sleeve, what is that? ABD seems to have a nice filter on a stick.

_Quote, originally posted by *kungfoojesus* »_This engine has more potential than any 24v (honestly).

For moderate tuners...maybe. But doubtful for heavy hitters. Have you seen this from Tom Long ? Either way, this won't be happening to this car










_Modified by orange1218 at 10:06 AM 11-4-2009_


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## kungfoojesus (Jan 10, 2005)

go with c2, i think dubwerks is a dealer now. the difference is night and day in terms of drivability.


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

*Re: (kungfoojesus)*

I had "infant mortality issues" (factory fabrication/assembly defects) in both the engine (oil leaking thru block casting..engine replaced @ 6K miles) and tranny (oil leak from right output shaft)...eventually traced (after a seal replacement leaked again) to faulty threads for axle to diff bolt so the bolt wouldn't seat all the way...diff replaced at 7K miles..no issues since..I'm at 17K+ miles. No issues with rattles..and I have VW sport springs installed. Rear brakes seem to be wearing about normal...VW has worn rear brakes faster than fronts since they went to ABS across the board (my 2000 Passat and my son-in-law's MKIV Jetta have more wear goin on in the rear than front..more brake dust on rear wheels than fronts)...so I'd guess I'll be replacing rear pads first on the MKV as well. Enuff power for me...I don't do drag racin..just drive aggressively, so being quick thru "twisties" which is the key to quickness is more important to me..hence the suspension and brake mods on my Rabbit.


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## LampyB (Apr 2, 2007)

i'm a big fan of GIAC software and used to have two tuned Audi's. not too sure about going with GIAC on the 2.5 engine though, they don't seem to have any real interest in updating the software or moving forward with new testing on our platform. i'd go with C2 or APR, they're a lot more active with the 2.5L inline 5 engine.


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## Tubaplaya (Mar 29, 2008)

The biggest problem I had was my coil pack on the #1 cylinder burned up. This happened at about 25k miles and the dealer covered no questions asked. Other than that it has been cosmetic stuff for me (Headrest button fell off and rub strips out of alignment)
Awesome car and I run it ragged! Have fun!


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## BuddyWh (Nov 11, 2006)

*Re: Common Issues (orange1218)*

As most others have noted, rear pads wear quicker - very strange to me. My advice is to replace the rears early and avoid the extra cost of the rotors, not really necessary if you don't wear 'em to the binders. Pads only isn't very hard at all: you only need to remove one bolt after getting the wheel off and they slide right out/in. It's almost worth doing evey year when you rotate tires at annual inspection. 
Biggest troubles I've noted are with the 5 speed: I developed a transmission leak, which a number of people have. Also a problem is the horrible dual-mass clutch. Lastly, it's not very strong; the diffy is prone to grenading when driven hard. That's only something that racers (drag or street) should have to worry about, but none of these are issues for you since you got the tip-tronic.
All this said, I don't think I'll ever get a VW again. Not because of the car but because of the dealer network. I know it's generalizing, and there are doubtless exceptions to my experience, but VW dealer's are a pain. They act like you should feel incredibly fortunate to have the opportunity to spend your money with them and then are anything but helpful after the sale. And to top it, their mechanics are no more careful or skillful than the average shade tree garage, in spite of the supposed 'factory training' and access to best service literature. 



_Modified by BuddyWh at 8:35 AM 11-5-2009_


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## chrissisc0 (Aug 18, 2006)

*Re: Common Issues (BuddyWh)*

2008 rabbit with 40k on the clock changed the front and back brakes at 17k miles and again just had to change the back rotors and back brake pads at around 37k only issue i notice and of course the rattle but im lowered on H&R race and a magnaflow catback exhaust. also a 12 inch type r so i guess its my own fault lol


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## Fluffy (Aug 25, 2008)

*Re: Common Issues (BuddyWh)*

All this said, I don't think I'll ever get a VW again. Not because of the car but because of the dealer network. I know it's generalizing, and there are doubtless exceptions to my experience, but VW dealer's are a pain. They act like you should feel incredibly fortunate to have the opportunity to spend your money with them and then are anything but helpful after the sale. And to top it, their mechanics are no more careful or skillful than the average shade tree garage, in spite of the supposed 'factory training' and access to best service literature. 

_Modified by BuddyWh at 8:35 AM 11-5-2009_[/QUOTE]
Well that explains why you didn't fix it yourself. Let me know when your shade tree needs to re-write the long coding on your Rabbit. Don't generalize that all VW techs are idiots and I wont asume all engineers are *******s.


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## BuddyWh (Nov 11, 2006)

*Re: Common Issues (Fluffy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Fluffy* »_
Well that explains why you didn't fix it yourself. Let me know when your shade tree needs to re-write the long coding on your Rabbit. Don't generalize that all VW techs are idiots and I wont asume all engineers are *******s.










Fix what?








I explained I knew I was...and qualified it. If you want to group yourself in with those who are that's your problem. I've no idea what you mean by 're-write the long coding' in my rabbit, if it means I have to go them to do it I will. But my past experience means I'll do so with great trepidation. 
It's sad that the bad ones make the goods ones suffer, but that is a burden you'll just have to carry.


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## tnvdubclub (Nov 21, 2008)

*Re: Common Issues (orange1218)*


_Quote, originally posted by *orange1218* »_
BTW, I'm surprised this engine doesn't make more power (I see it's about 170hp/170tq). Any recommended reading why that is?

Deliberately detuned from the factory. 
As other posters have already mentioned, they can't have the 2.5 making GTI numbers. If you remember the SEMA TB rabbit, they easily made 225hp with their turbo. Even NA, when you switch out the cams, flywheel, reflash and open up the engine's breathing... you are going to see a completely different engine. As more aftermarket developments come to light I think we will see more and more people considering the 2.5
If anything, at least reflash with C2 and install a $20 motor mount. It will make a considerable difference for a mere $320. 
Other cheap mods, find unwanted '08/'09 GTI suspension/sway bar and some 17" wheels/tires. It will totally transform the often underappreciated Rabbit.


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## orange1218 (Mar 23, 2007)

*Re: Common Issues (tnvdubclub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tnvdubclub* »_
Deliberately detuned from the factory. 
As other posters have already mentioned, they can't have the 2.5 making GTI numbers. 


Logically that makes sense. However, the MKIV Golf came in a 1.8T and VR6...same as the GTI at the time. Either way, the wife is happy with the car, so we'll probably put a C2 chip and CAI and be done with it. I'll be keeping an eye on the brakes though, since that seems to be a common issue (is that an MKV thing or 2.5L thing?).
And pics as promised (please excuse my dirty jetta in the back and the crappy iPhone pics)


























_Modified by orange1218 at 1:54 PM 11-6-2009_


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## seanmcd72 (May 14, 2008)

your driver door latch electronics will probably go bad







I've seen several people on the rabbit forum have this issue, including me. (fixed under warranty) (car doesn't know door is open, or door lock clicks like crazy for a while when you unlock it)
Other than that - the 2008's don't usually have the rear brake issue (mine are still like new after 28K miles), you may be dissapointed with the MPG, depends on your driving.


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## 07Wolfie (Oct 24, 2009)

*Re: (seanmcd72)*








I just came back from the dealership after having the driver's door latch internals replaced.


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## tnvdubclub (Nov 21, 2008)

*Re: (07Wolfie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *07Wolfie* »_







I just came back from the dealership after having the driver's door latch internals replaced. 

Hey, what do they do for it? THey are familiar with this issue? I've always been so worried about electronic issues... most of the time you get the car back and it is worse








Mine does this once in a while as well, I guess I should take it in.


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## tnvdubclub (Nov 21, 2008)

*Re: Common Issues (orange1218)*


_Quote, originally posted by *orange1218* »_
Logically that makes sense. However, the MKIV Golf came in a 1.8T and VR6...same as the GTI at the time. Either way, the wife is happy with the car, so we'll probably put a C2 chip and CAI and be done with it. I'll be keeping an eye on the brakes though, since that seems to be a common issue (is that an MKV thing or 2.5L thing?).









_Modified by orange1218 at 1:54 PM 11-6-2009_

That's true.. forgot about the MKIV. The Golf 1.8 may have been much closer to the GTI in price vs. the 2.0 though.
I think that if the 2.5 had more power stock, it would seem even harder to justify 6-8K extra for the GTI. The fact that they introduced the Rabbit at a lower cost than what a MKIV golf with the 2.0 went for is really amazing. 
Nice SB Rabbit btw!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 2ohgti (Nov 8, 2004)

*Re: (07Wolfie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *07Wolfie* »_As for the rear brakes, watch for improper parking brake cable adjustment. Lots of these cars left the factory with the cables just a tad too tight, which keeps the rear pads dragging on the rotors. The dealerships tend to be deliberately obtuse about this, I suspect VW's being very careful to avoid recall/liability issues. I gave up the warranty path, found a DIY, adjusted it properly, and the rear brakes stay nice and cool now. Get an extra 1 MPG, too.
_Modified by 07Wolfie at 8:07 PM 11-3-2009_

Do you have a link to the hand brake DIY? My stealership replaced my pads and rotors after 12k. and said it was the hand brake cable, and said they adjusted it. 5k later I brought the car back and the pads were nearly gone. I complained about it and they said there was nothing they could do














http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## Cherb32 (Jun 18, 2006)

*Re: (2ohgti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2ohgti* »_
Do you have a link to the hand brake DIY? My stealership replaced my pads and rotors after 12k. and said it was the hand brake cable, and said they adjusted it. 5k later I brought the car back and the pads were nearly gone. I complained about it and they said there was nothing they could do














http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 

Its why you just may have to do everything yourself....hell last month I went in for an oil change and got my car back with a broken seat lever an autotech mount insert missing. Good ol dealership!


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## 07Wolfie (Oct 24, 2009)

*Re: (tnvdubclub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tnvdubclub* »_
Hey, what do they do for it? THey are familiar with this issue? I've always been so worried about electronic issues... most of the time you get the car back and it is worse








Mine does this once in a while as well, I guess I should take it in.

I noticed the electronics not always seeing the door as being "open" when I opened it. Dome light not coming on, etc. They monitored the door latch measuring block and verified that it was not always sending the "open" signal when the handle was pulled. I think it's a microswitch in there.


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## 07Wolfie (Oct 24, 2009)

*Re: (2ohgti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2ohgti* »_
Do you have a link to the hand brake DIY? My stealership replaced my pads and rotors after 12k. and said it was the hand brake cable, and said they adjusted it. 5k later I brought the car back and the pads were nearly gone. I complained about it and they said there was nothing they could do














http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 

I used the DIY for installing a euro cup holder http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2944110 to tear the center console apart. You only need to get access to the bottom of the handbrake lever, so you don't have to take the entire front section of the console apart. I was able to remove enough pieces that i could slip two wrenches in from the back and crank on the adjusting nuts. The proper adjustment is done by measuring a clearance on a lever on the rear caliper with the wheels off... or you can just adjust the nuts until the handbrake lever has a tiny bit of free play when fully released.


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