# Just another MKI 1.8T AEB swap



## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

I have always wanted a fun little MKI and have owned a couple now but never anything that was clean enough to keep around for long. 2 weeks ago I picked up a pretty clean little 84' GTI and I really love this one. The 8V was... not my cup of tea, too slow, and I do not have the patience or interest to learn CIS. Also the water pump blew after driving it daily for a week so I decided it was a sign to put a 1.8T in the car. Apparently I can not own a car without a 1.8T and I know them like the back of my hand so it makes sense. :laugh: Not looking to make a monster and FWD on a >2000 pound car doesn't need much power so I sourced myself a running 058 AEB long block, wiring harness, ECU, etc... out of a Passat parts car and went to work. I'll be keeping the 020 until it decides to blow up then maybe go down the road of hydro/cable conversion later. Mostly I just want this to be a fun little cruiser to play with when my Audis are broken. 

Started by getting rid of the JH engine:










It was snowing in the morning and very cold, but I pushed through.





































30 years of grime. I have some cleaning to do on this trans. 










Still a lot to pull out of this bay.



















My neighbors probably love me. :laugh:










Why wouldn't you stand in the empty bay?










The old 8V is off to put life in another MKI, in the back of the new owners Toyota. :screwy:










My engine stand is currently occupied by another project, so I had to get creative when time came to tear down the 1.8T.




























All the stuff I won't be needing in the MKI. Minus the timing covers, the dremel and I modified them.










The new block needs a few more parts and the MKI needs to be emptied of more stuff before it can go in. So for now its slotted in next to my stroker 06A engine that is undergoing some gasket and exhaust re-work. 1.8Ts in all the cars!










Next up I have to figure out the wiring... and I know absolutely nothing about the MKI wiring system or where to begin as that is all new territory for me. I can turn wrenches with the best monkeys, but wiring this car has me a little confused at the moment. Supposedly from what I'm reading its "easy"... I have no idea where to start.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

:beer::beer::beer::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::heart::heart::wave:


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## prom king (Aug 14, 2004)

:thumbup::thumbup:
Subscribed, I'm doing a very similar project.


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## kevlar_vw (Jan 5, 2005)

killer workspace :beer:


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Im doing the same and have just modified my harness and took pics incase some needed any help with it


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Im doing the same and have just modified my harness and took pics incase some needed any help with it


I'll be pulling the CE1 engine harness tonight or tomorrow... I would love to see the photos or the color>color wiring if you have it. Would save me a fair bit of time, thanks!



ABAinA1 said:


> killer workspace :beer:


The driveway or the cramped garage? :laugh:


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Sure thing, I will do. You'll
Laugh when you realise how simple these engines are to wire in. I
Just went from Ecu pin list and stipend the lion back to determine afew other 12v feeds needed for sensors and injectors. I'll get some pics up when in sat down at the comp. the aeb wiring loom, you only need the part from the engine to the fuse box, think there were 5 multi coloured plugs. That's all. No need for the rest. My original mk1 loom, remained where it was, I just removed the majority of the engine wiring. And spliced the gandful of aeb wires in. Few grounds, few 12v switched, 12v permanent, and few others like temp, obd etc.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Also, as you know your 20v's I'll assume you know what needs changing to fit it into the mk1? I'm using my original tranny too, till I find a cheap decent upgrade.


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Also, as you know your 20v's I'll assume you know what needs changing to fit it into the mk1? I'm using my original tranny too, till I find a cheap decent upgrade.


Oh yeah, I modified (AKA hacked) the accessory bracket down to the alternator, replaced the oil cooler housing with an ABA "upright cooler", I still need to make a trip to the J-yard and nab a ABA oil pan and pick-up, the timing belt has been converted to 16V solid tensioner to fit the MK1 engine mount, timing covers trimmed to fit over the mount, new upgraded 8V clutch mounted with sachs flywheel on order, and need to source a shorter accessory belt. Should be it minus the catch can and fueling setup. I'll probably slay through a couple 020's before I get the motivation to convert over to cable/hydro with a 02X trans.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Sounds about right! Plus the inlet manifold and A water pump/pulley. The rest you sound good to go! Yeah I'd like to stick with cable clutch, it's all
Possible!


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Sounds about right! Plus the inlet manifold and A water pump/pulley. The rest you sound good to go! Yeah I'd like to stick with cable clutch, it's all
> Possible!


Ah good catch, did not think about the external water pump being a V belt. Are guys using an ABA pulley on that? I have a few transverse intake manifolds to choose from here.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

You can use a vr6 pulley and get a belt to suit. I've used aba parts, bracket etc just because I had no aeb stuff with me, else I would've kept it!


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Very good, I have a 12V pulley kicking around at work I'm sure. 

BTW if anyone is interested, this whole project was to see if I could do this swap completely funded from my garage. So far I am only around 95.00 out of pocket with everything else including suspension and the car completely purchased by either selling or trading parts laying around my garage. :laugh: I have a few more items that are about to sell locally from my B5 parts car so I might just be above water again soon. Exhaust might kill it however. Been a lot of fun to do it this way. :thumbup:


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

here you go buddy, if you need any ore, just ask, but i didn't want to blow up your thread!
anyway, these will come in handy, theyre the pin list and locations



and these are the plugs you need to pay attention too. they're at the end of the engine harness, which go into the fusebox.



now, the wires you'll need and locations are as follows,
from ecu pin #3 solid red wire, this is the power/memory for the ecu, and needs to be a 12v permanent. you can take it striaght from the ecu plug or follow it back to one of the plugs above.
it's here on the fusebox plugs 



then theres a red/blue wire at pin#4 on the ecu which replaces the fuel pump relay ground, so at 85 or 86 depending on how its fitted, this lets the ecu control the fuel pump.



pin #19 on the ecu is for your obd port (k wire) it'll be green/blue OR green/black. which again is here on the fusebox plugs. but, just to be safe, i'd trace it back to the ecu plug.
but it's found here



then at pin #1 you'll have a black/blue wire, this merges into a number of wires in the loom, this is for the ignition coil power and should have a 12v switched live, so power with ignition on and at 20amp fuse.
don't cut this from the back of the ecu though because as i said, it shares the power with the coils so either take it from the plug at the opposite end of the loom. i unwravelled my loom just so i could be 100% sure what wires were what and did what i thought. heres the wire i mean at it's join, you can see the cut piece i'm holding is the piece that goes to the 12v power source, then theres one with branches off itself, this goes to pin #1 on the ecu and the other 4 go off down the loom to each coil. like so.


you can find this here, at this plug




so thats 4 wires down.
so at the fuse box plugs, there will be a 10amp green/yellow wire, this also needs a 12v ignition on feed. make sure to give it it's own feed, don't share it with the previous black/blue wire. anyway, this wire comes to here on the plug


and again, stripped back, it branches off again like so


this supplies power to the injectors.

finally, theres a red/green wire at the fuse box plugs, which again needs a 12v ingition feed. this one is found here on the plug



and again, when traced back, leads here




for the oil i'm simply using the original wiring from the golf, for the starting and charging, again i'm using the original jetta wiring. for the temp gauge, just splice this wire into your original. this is from the aeb coolant sensor plug



you see the one i've seperated, coming from number 2 on the plug.

hope this helps!! if you need more, just ask, i've got afew pics i took just incase.

oh i almost forgot, pin #16 on the ecu is for your tach input!if using a digital rev gauge, (aftermarket, carrodo, etc) wire it straight in, as i am using as i have a no tach cluster. if you want to use your original, you'll need to get hold of a tach digital to analog converter, msd do one which is pretty popular. 
i'm thinking of getting rid of the ignition control module so i can walk you through that also, i haven't done it yet though, as it's depending on if i can find a cheap icm first! as thats something else i'm missing!


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Well ****, that is incredibly helpful. Thanks a metric ton for taking the time to lay all that out. Wow. :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Ok her you go, hopefully you'll get this, as basic as I could do it, and it's messy and on a piece of wood lok as I'm currently working! 









Also, the fuel pump with either have it's earth at pin 85 or 86, depending, it's just a case of probing it beforehand and see which one it is but it needs to replace the ground as shown in my diagram! Hope this is understandable


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Alright, I think I'm now ready to wire this thing. Big thanks to *Deathproofcapri*, using his information I just layed it out into this diagram sheet. Should help anyone else looking to do this swap in the future as well!


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Deathproofcapri said:


> here you go buddy, if you need any ore, just ask, but i didn't want to blow up your thread!
> anyway, these will come in handy, theyre the pin list and locations
> 
> 
> ...



yeah..i copied it...but this is HUGELY HELPFUL. this is the stuff i lose people on when i explain it, having someone document that simply is massive. very cool!!:beer::beer:


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## dfonzi88 (Jan 26, 2010)

subscribing to this. thanks for the wealth of info!:beer::beer:


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Vegeta, yeah that's exactly why I thought I'd take afew pics, when you don't have anything to look at, some people totally lose focus on it, and also this way, there's no cutting wrong wires!


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

:beer::beer::thumbup::thumbup:


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Just a word of caution, the wires on my harness ran to completely different colored fuse box connector colors and pin locations entirely, so my harness did not follow the photos above at all. However, *Deathproofcapri * did such a good job of explaining the wires and supplied that ECU pin-out I was easily able to trace and find the wires on my harness very quickly. :thumbup:


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

I THINK it differs depending on if it was out an Audi or a vw as they may have different fuse boxes. May be wrong but it'd make sense. Glad you got it sussed


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## CasuallyWreckless (Aug 27, 2007)

:thumbup:opcorn:
Doin the same but swapped to ce2 as I did in my scirocco for the Vr. You know about the tach adapter?


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Yeah, if you're not running a digital gauge, you'll need a digital to analog converter. Msd do a commOn one


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

CasuallyWreckless said:


> :thumbup:opcorn:
> Doin the same but swapped to ce2 as I did in my scirocco for the Vr. You know about the tach adapter?


Yup, I still need to grab a MSD 8920. Tach does not work now on the car, so I need to diagnose if it is the cluster or something else.


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## izcorrado18 (Aug 21, 2005)

Looking good bro!!! If you need any help let me know.


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

dri0514 said:


> Looking good bro!!! If you need any help let me know.


Thanks, I just read through your build... clean swap. :thumbup:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

:beer::beer::thumbup::thumbup:

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Well, even though it was freezing cold I got the engine in Saturday morning. Pretty straight forward, no real hurtles. Unfortunately I did not get my intake manifold, exhaust manifold, or turbo manifold until the last minute so I was not able to wash the engine down before I put it in. It has years of gunk on it and I did not want to risk spraying that crap off and into the ports or block breather. Now that it is in the bay and sealed up, I will get to pressure washing everything clean and detailing it down. For now though, it is very dirty. :laugh:

New clutch/flywheel:









ABA oil filter housing, had to drill/tap/taper one of the ports for the OE AEB oil feed line.









Turbo mounted up with ABA oil pan and -10AN drain line. ABA pan is drilled for a male -10AN ARP weld bung and welded in.









Trans back on, I have no excuse for not cleaning it except that now I can do it all at once.









I grinded/sanded/prepped the engine mount brackets down and had them powdered. Also put in new mounts:









And going in:



























IN!









And looks embarrassingly dirty. For now....









Its a complete mess compared to my 06A:









But I have some plans.

I also got a good start on the wiring, I'll get photos of that up soon. :thumbup:


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## britishrocco (Dec 14, 2006)

What clutch/flywheel combo did you use?


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

britishrocco said:


> What clutch/flywheel combo did you use?


Spec stage 2 and new OE flywheel.


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Wires...




























Its nice that VW kept the B5 AEB ICM the same shape and bolt pattern as the MKI distributor control unit, easy mount for that.


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Beautiful weather out this weekend, so I finished up a lot of projects on the MKI. Put new front axles, control arms, all poly bushings, front & rear strut/shock mounts, wheel bearings, and coilovers on the car. Then I took advantage of the weather to tow it to a pressure washer and used about 20.00 at the car wash and a gallon of purple power to scrub the bay and engine down. I then finished modifying the OE MKI engine harness and removed everything except the oil sensor, coolant sensor, and reverse lights and integrated it into the AEB harness. With the engine wiring done I re-ran the engine harnesses and cleaned up the wiring side of the bay a lot. Still need to tackle the chassis harness and wire the rest of the AEB harness into the fuse block. Then I can start work on the intake and intercooler setup. :thumbup:

First time the car has moved since I pulled the 8V out:










And cleaning up the engine bay:


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## dfonzi88 (Jan 26, 2010)

hot damn you move fast


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

dfonzi88 said:


> hot damn you move fast


Trying to get it on the road before the end of March. I've pulled the engine out of my A4 enough times now that taking in and out 1.8T's is like a walk in the park. Not necessarily a good thing....


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## 93VR6Passat (Jan 26, 2005)

fantastic write up. Where are you located? Wish this was around when I did my aeb swap, going to be switching to dbw soon if you'd like some practice on that :wave:. Everything looks great. :beer:


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

93VR6Passat said:


> fantastic write up. Where are you located? Wish this was around when I did my aeb swap, going to be switching to dbw soon if you'd like some practice on that :wave:. Everything looks great. :beer:


Thanks man, I'm in Utah.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but looking at your turbo... I'd seriously adjust the housing donut faces up. I've got mine all in and bolted, I've adjusted it sonits aiming almost upright else you'll have a bastard of a time making up the boost/charge pipes! I finished my downpipe today, what an absolute C-U-N-T that was!!! Cause I'm sticking with the original tranny also so had to shake the pipe back on itself, but again there's probably a way to 'flip' the turbo to make life easier then too. What are your plans for your downpipe??


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Someone correct me if I'm wrong but looking at your turbo... I'd seriously adjust the housing donut faces up. I've got mine all in and bolted, I've adjusted it sonits aiming almost upright else you'll have a bastard of a time making up the boost/charge pipes! I finished my downpipe today, what an absolute C-U-N-T that was!!! Cause I'm sticking with the original tranny also so had to shake the pipe back on itself, but again there's probably a way to 'flip' the turbo to make life easier then too. What are your plans for your downpipe??


I got it all figured out, my charge piping is all mapped out and in the works with no problems. Downpipe is getting built from an exhaust shop that has done a lot of work for me, he said it shouldn't be hard. I'm keeping it 2.5" and there should be plenty of room at that size.:thumbup:


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Ah nice one bud. Yeah I made mine up with 3" as it was what I had laying round as a spare, was real tight around the linkage but it's done! I also tapped a reducer in the water way for the turbo I the block so the coolant pipe simply sleeves over. I think I'll have that ic off you too bud as mine is just too big, I've for 3" each side of the in and outlets and I don't think I'm going to find any 90 deg couplers that'll fit there??


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Ah nice one bud. Yeah I made mine up with 3" as it was what I had laying round as a spare, was real tight around the linkage but it's done! I also tapped a reducer in the water way for the turbo I the block so the coolant pipe simply sleeves over. I think I'll have that ic off you too bud as mine is just too big, I've for 3" each side of the in and outlets and I don't think I'm going to find any 90 deg couplers that'll fit there??


The I/C I have is too big also. The end tanks end directly at the headlights.
I had to order a smaller one. Do you think you could use cobra heads on yours? 

http://www.performancebyie.com/search/?q=cobra&order=relevance&dir=desc 

Might give you the clearance you need.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Yeah I had a look for some but I don't want to spend 70 dollars on 2 couplers when I can get a better fitting ic. I managed to get a gold of everything else I needed now, it's literally just the ic piping left to do. Ill add more to the build thread when I actually get round to taking pics. I see what you mean with mounting the icm when the old one went. Makes life a little easier!


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Yeah I had a look for some but I don't want to spend 70 dollars on 2 couplers when I can get a better fitting ic. I managed to get a gold of everything else I needed now, it's literally just the ic piping left to do. Ill add more to the build thread when I actually get round to taking pics. I see what you mean with mounting the icm when the old one went. Makes life a little easier!


You are getting close as well then! I ordered a much smaller 25.5x5.5x2.5 intercooler that should fit great and allow plenty of room for piping and the OE MKI radiator. I still have to finish my intake and I/C piping, hoping to finish that up this weekend if everything I ordered arrives before then. Then I have to put together the coolant system, wire the slim fan, finish wiring the AEB harness under the dash, get the mocked up I/C piping welded, and get the car towed to the exhaust shop for the exhaust to be made. Chewing through it though, hopefully I can have her driving before the end of March. :thumbup:

I pulled the stock MKI engine harness out, and de-pinned removed everything except the coolant and oil signal line and reverse lights then ran it with the AEB harness wrapping. Was a pretty clean way to run both those modified harnesses through the firewall and got rid of a lot of wiring under the dash, the extra room should make it a little easier to mount the ECU under there now.


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Well, its going to rain buckets this weekend. Guess no work on the MKI for me.... disappointing, especially since I received the cutest little intercooler and piping today. K03 stuff is soooo precious, like wee lil' baby parts. :laugh:


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## izcorrado18 (Aug 21, 2005)

Looking good man!!! :thumbup:


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## kevlar_vw (Jan 5, 2005)

lots of good info here :beer:


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Between spouts of rainfall this weekend I managed to get some work done. Car is still not wired, but I did extend all the AEB harness wires to length I need to reach the fuse block. My plan is to tap the 12V constants into the fuse block wiring as if it was an OE harness so I need to identify and source what OE MKI wires I'll be using. That way it is easily serviced and I can remove the harness if needed, also it should look very OE. I also received everything I ordered for the intake and intercooler setup, so I got to work mounting the I/C and cutting the piping. Its all mocked up now and ready to be welded, all the blue couplers will be removed and it will be welded instead. The only visible couplers will be at the intercooler, and I will replace those with nice black couplers. I also made brackets and got the radiator re-mounted, the brackets will get cleaned up and painted/powdered and I'll run some rubber lining to keep the metal from rubbing through.





































I then loosely installed the hood, lights, and grill to make sure everything still fit. Cool to see her looking like a car again.





































Next up I need to start working on fuel lines and the coolant system. The I/C piping will get removed to start welding, and provisions made for the diverter valve and catch can. :thumbup:


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Where'd you order the intercooler kit from bud? I've been scratching my head figuring out how to do it on the cheap. Tried to get hold if a civic turbo setup which I'd chop up and use but seller is being a right tit!!


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Where'd you order the intercooler kit from bud? I've been scratching my head figuring out how to do it on the cheap. Tried to get hold if a civic turbo setup which I'd chop up and use but seller is being a right tit!!


I'll find where I sourced it.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Also, to get your temp gauge to read 100% accurate, get a temp sensor from an aba napa stock the right one for 6.97. And that second wire coming from the sensor, ground it.


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## izcorrado18 (Aug 21, 2005)

stkshftgti said:


> Between spouts of rainfall this weekend I managed to get some work done. Car is still not wired, but I did extend all the AEB harness wires to length I need to reach the fuse block. My plan is to tap the 12V constants into the fuse block wiring as if it was an OE harness so I need to identify and source what OE MKI wires I'll be using. That way it is easily serviced and I can remove the harness if needed, also it should look very OE. I also received everything I ordered for the intake and intercooler setup, so I got to work mounting the I/C and cutting the piping. Its all mocked up now and ready to be welded, all the blue couplers will be removed and it will be welded instead. The only visible couplers will be at the intercooler, and I will replace those with nice black couplers. I also made brackets and got the radiator re-mounted, the brackets will get cleaned up and painted/powdered and I'll run some rubber lining to keep the metal from rubbing through.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I see you kept the 3 pin coils with the ICM. Looks very good.


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

dri0514 said:


> I see you kept the 3 pin coils with the ICM. Looks very good.


Thanks. :thumbup: Yeah, I'm not looking at making a ton of power or anything and the MKI distributor module heat sync was the exact same bolt pattern and size that made mounting the AEB ICM too easy. I see no reason to wire up an ICM delete and 4 pin push down coil packs at this point and time.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Your inbox is full bud do I'll reply here 
For now, I'm simply using the stock lines and filter, with a threaded line to a barbed hose adaptor on it going to the fuel rail. Same for the return. I'll eventually copper line the whole car as its cheap and tidy, but that'll be when the weather gets better. I'm still stuck on the last hurdle of the intercooler and piping.


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Your inbox is full bud do I'll reply here
> For now, I'm simply using the stock lines and filter, with a threaded line to a barbed hose adaptor on it going to the fuel rail. Same for the return. I'll eventually copper line the whole car as its cheap and tidy, but that'll be when the weather gets better. I'm still stuck on the last hurdle of the intercooler and piping.


I'm doing something similar with my lines as well. I would like to convert them to -6an stainless braided lines later as I have a lot left over from my Audi's fuel system build but I need a few other items first before I go down that road. Are the intercooler and piping links I sent you not going work out? 

I have a big list of items to get done this weekend. My I/C piping is off being welded now, should be done by the weekend then I can finish running the MAF/N75 wiring along with the diverter valve and catch can. Also work on running fueling lines and I have a new gas tank to put in (I have a Nascar bunny that wont turn right under 3/4 of a tank). If I get those finished then I can start working on the coolant system and mounting/ wiring the slim fan.

Also, I have some more wiring stuff to do. My coolant sensor has a brown and blue wire coming from it... Deathproofcapri, you mentioned that I should use the blue wire from pin #2 for the dash light sensor wiring, however my pin # 2 is the brown wire, not blue. So I'm unsure of what brown/blue wire to use and what one should be cut. Also, I have the ECU under the dashboard, but I don't have any bright ideas on exactly where or how to securely mount it. 

Finally, after I finish up the last of the list I can get an exhaust put on her and it should run. I think it will be road ready by the end of the month. :thumbup:


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

It doesn't matter which way round you out the coolant wires as long as one is ground and the other goes to the gauge. Yeah they came up I am just being stubborn and trying to find a local kit by the weekend which I think I now have sorted! So we shall see. When doing your fuel lines, if putting slip on ends, make sure to used barbed ends! What are you doing for your exhaust? Keen to see pics if your downpipe see how you went about doing it


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> It doesn't matter which way round you out the coolant wires as long as one is ground and the other goes to the gauge. Yeah they came up I am just being stubborn and trying to find a local kit by the weekend which I think I now have sorted! So we shall see. When doing your fuel lines, if putting slip on ends, make sure to used barbed ends! What are you doing for your exhaust? Keen to see pics if your downpipe see how you went about doing it


Yup, I will use barbs for now, until I swap it over to stainless that is. I'm towing it to a local exhaust shop, giving him the car, turbo flange, muffler, and cash... after a few hours it will have an exhaust. :laugh:


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Nice one! Makes life easier! Unlike myself, I'm a tight arse! I got the downpipe done, got a flange for the downpipe and some old ****e exhaust bits I can 'use'


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Nice one! Makes life easier! Unlike myself, I'm a tight arse! I got the downpipe done, got a flange for the downpipe and some old ****e exhaust bits I can 'use'


I would be the same way only I don't own any welding equipment, and my welding skill set is non-existent. That's better left up to the pros better than myself.


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## Barney_ZA (Jul 21, 2012)

awesome work sir

my cabrio is also at the exhaust shop then i can finish the wiring then time to start up the 1.8 AUQ :sly:

i now see why everyone goes cable throttle on these conversions :banghead:


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Spent a big chunk of the weekend putting the new gas tank in, but I did manage to get some other work done. Intercooler piping welded, diverter valve mocked up, fuel lines ran, engine bay wiring finished, and fuel pump re-wired. Previous owner somewhere down the line ran the pump to a switch bypassing the relay. Not sure why, I rewired it back to factory so maybe I will find out.. hopefully not.

Next big hurtle is the coolant system. Got a lot of work ahead of me there I'm thinking. Then I need to finish under the dash wiring and get the exhaust made. If the coolant system doesn't fight me too much it should be up and running soon.

















































Barney_ZA said:


> awesome work sir
> 
> my cabrio is also at the exhaust shop then i can finish the wiring then time to start up the 1.8 AUQ :sly:
> 
> i now see why everyone goes cable throttle on these conversions :banghead:


Thanks man, yeah DBC is super easy on this. No reason to change when using an AEB.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Looking at your ic piping setup... I really should fork out for a practical sized setup, but I got a local set mega cheap so it's going to do for now!! The intercooler end to end is 32" and pipes are... Everywhere! A 225 tt manifold is on the list for sure lol. I'll update soon


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Want to sell me your old couplers and clamps!? Well, I need 2 2" couplers and I 90 deg if you have any?


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

I have a ridiculous amount of straight couplers left, but no 90s. They are yours if you want them.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Sweet! I'll pm you my address and you let me know what I'd owe


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## dfonzi88 (Jan 26, 2010)

:thumbup::thumbup::beer:


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Sweet! I'll pm you my address and you let me know what I'd owe


You don't owe me anything, you've been incredibly helpful.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Cool! Thanks buddy, I really appreciate it! You have my address!


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## Barney_ZA (Jul 21, 2012)

i agree but finding the way to mount the pedal in a mk3 box correctly is was really tough. decided to get the guys doing my boost pipes and exhaust to mount it

looking forward to when you can drive


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Barney_ZA said:


> i agree but finding the way to mount the pedal in a mk3 box correctly is was really tough. decided to get the guys doing my boost pipes and exhaust to mount it
> 
> looking forward to when you can drive


I need to wore up the rest of the harness under the dash, build a coolant system, and get the exhaust made. Building the coolant system is the next hurdle for sure.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Coolant system is eaaaasy! I got mine done now without having to buy a single pipe besides a water feed to the turbo. I used leftovers from the aeb and the 8v it replaced. Got a later style coolant flange which has 3 outlets, one to rad, one to heater matrix and one to turbo. Job done. Got 2 bleed nipples (. Y .) on it too, one I used off the aeb, the other was the original mk1 bleed going to the matrix


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## Barney_ZA (Jul 21, 2012)

collant was easy enough in a mk3 only thing that needed to be changed was the top hose is on the other side of the block so a piece of pipe was added.

other than that only the aircon pipes were not a straight fit cause the oil filter is in the way :banghead::banghead:

i just need to finish wiring in my ecu and redoing the fuel pump wire then my oem setup is good to go. cant wait :vampire:


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

I dont have any of the AEB coolant hoses, but I do have a lot of coolant hoses from an MKIII ABA I'm going to try to work in there. I did also pick up a ABA coolant head flange to make it easier. We will see this weekend. How did you guys route the oil cooler hoses? Any photos of your setup Deathproofcapri ?


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Well the ABA coolant flange doesn't come close to fitting. :screwy: So I'll return that and buy a MK4 20V coolant flange instead. Hopefully this all lines up somehow in the end without looking entirely terrible.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

****, I did the sameas you bud. I should've told you but in so exhausted this week I didn't think. Yeah I got a later golf 20v flange for 5 dollars at napa. Works perfectly. I still need to send you over a diagram. Sorry, I'll get that to you tomorrow. It's real straight forward and plumbs in oil cooler, turbo water cooler and heater matrix. Also, one thing I will warn you, if you're using an aba oil filter housing, for your oil feed, Helicoil it. Don't just drill and tap. I had a tdi one, had a crack, **** knows how, so I got an aba one, tapped it and the threads chewed out whilst tightening the feed pipe. So I had to take it back off and Helicoil the bloody thing. I ordered a seal kit too, O ring for oil cooler to housing and housing to block. Worth doing. Think it'll be springing into life this weekend!?


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Yep, I picked up a 20V coolant flange today and it fits much better. I also managed to get the heater core to coolant flange hooked up, and the main ABA coolant hose worked well, it comes off the top of the rad and down to the upper pump outlet and T's that into the oil cooler perfectly then up to the coolant flange... Its just going to take some cutting to fit correctly to the coolant flange and rad. It did make me move the slim fan to where I don't know yet. I have no idea how I'm getting the lower rad to the lower water pump connection, thats gonna be a magical hose. I'm not sure how the rest hooks up from here, but its starting to make way. 

My oil cooler was drilled and tapped a long while ago and is perfectly healthy. 

This weekend does not look likely, I'm going to go ride the ATV at the dunes all day tomorrow so I only have Sunday to work on the MK1. I still have to finish a coolant system somehow, finish the wiring, repair the broken coolant sensor wire, re-wrap the chassis harness, wire and mount the slim fan, and wire up the harness under the dash all before I can start it. Then it needs an exhaust. Also I noticed today that the motor mount bolt is touching the timing belt :banghead: ...glad I caught it but that means I have to source a shorter bolt, re-hang the engine, and take a lot back off to get in there and replace that bolt. So I dont think this weekend is going to happen. If I can sort all that out this week though i could be driving it next week after the exhaust gets on. As long as there is no hiccups. I still don't know why a previous owner had the fuel pump wired into a switch.... but I will probably find out. Hopefully the pump just works with the OE wiring re-connected.


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

I am in the process of getting my AEB conversion done in my Corrado. My thread is in my sig. My coolant lines will be a little different though. I spent a bunch of time in Utah. Where abouts in Utah if you don't mind me asking?


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

turtledub said:


> I am in the process of getting my AEB conversion done in my Corrado. My thread is in my sig. My coolant lines will be a little different though. I spent a bunch of time in Utah. Where abouts in Utah if you don't mind me asking?


I'm in Uintah/upper South Ogden mountain area. North of Salt Lake City. I work in SLC. I'll check your thread!


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Not sure what your throttle cable plans are but a vr6 cable works perfectly, 12v I believe? But I used my original cable, snipped the end off and got a barrell end from a bike store, clod it on, tightened it up, job done. Cost 1 dollar


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## traderX (Aug 23, 2013)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Also, as you know your 20v's I'll assume you know what needs changing to fit it into the mk1? I'm using my original tranny too, till I find a cheap decent upgrade.


I just picked up an 02A for $250 at a junk yard with 90k on it
then added 100mm shafts for another $100

Could be a decent add


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

I actually builds a pedal assembly to operate a clutch master cylinder for an o2A. As I had a spare column/pedal setup and future plans to upgrade box. I actually mounted the cylinder up the column toward the steering wheel, and uses the original mk1 pedal to push it in reverse motion. There was/is probably a more tried and tested way of doing it but this cost me did all.


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## traderX (Aug 23, 2013)

Deathproofcapri said:


> I actually builds a pedal assembly to operate a clutch master cylinder for an o2A. As I had a spare column/pedal setup and future plans to upgrade box. I actually mounted the cylinder up the column toward the steering wheel, and uses the original mk1 pedal to push it in reverse motion. There was/is probably a more tried and tested way of doing it but this cost me did all.



For around $350 you can grab this setup. I just bought one for my rally car build (same 1.8T / AEB / but an 02A tranny)

http://www.obpltd.com/Pedal-Boxes/V...lkhead-Fit-Hyd-Clutch-Race-Pedal-Box-OBPVIC01


My build thread

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...r-Needs-Help&p=85124767&posted=1#post85124767


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## traderX (Aug 23, 2013)

traderX said:


> For around $350 you can grab this setup. I just bought one for my rally car build (same 1.8T / AEB / but an 02A tranny)
> 
> http://www.obpltd.com/Pedal-Boxes/V...lkhead-Fit-Hyd-Clutch-Race-Pedal-Box-OBPVIC01
> 
> ...


BTW thats three master cylinders (clutch for 02a) and two for brakes with BIAS BAR !!! (no more proportioning valve)


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Yeah I almost always go for bias pedal boxes but this is just a budget build and I wanted to keep the stock brake servo etc


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Alright, working on my coolant system today. Using a bunch of ABA, AEB, JH, and random wall of hoses from Autozone I have this much done. And I'm not sure where to run the rest with question marks. The second black flange is a 4 way flange that fits in the upper radiator hose with two outlets from a MK4 1.8T engine. Let me know if anything is hooked up wrong so far.











Can I do this, it would be really easy with the way I'm setup now and only leave the expansion tank hose that I still would not know where to connect it. This way would have both heater core hoses running to the coolant head flange, the turbo coolant feed line running from the radiator, and the expansion overflow to the top hose. Is this kosher?


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

I've had afew beers and I tried to draw it on some ****e iPhone soo but I hope this helps somewhat. The scribbles join, coolant flange to turbo, or how you had it in the previous setup


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## dfonzi88 (Jan 26, 2010)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Not sure what your throttle cable plans are but a vr6 cable works perfectly, 12v I believe? But I used my original cable, snipped the end off and got a barrell end from a bike store, clod it on, tightened it up, job done. Cost 1 dollar


Did you use a tt manifold as well? I'm trying to make it work with a gti manifold. I bought a b3 passat vr6 throttle cable and it's still wayy too short :banghead:

Any ideas?


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Nope, I'm using a fri manifold also. I didn't use a vr6 cable, I used my original cable, snipped the end off and fitted a lockable barrell end from a bike store which cost me a dollar. Works perfect. I know there's a difference between the vr6 cables, not sure what though? Maybe one is longer? I'm not sure, just what I've seen and saw. I know they work with 225 tt manifolds but for the gti, just do as I did. Cheap and cheerful!


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## traderX (Aug 23, 2013)

I love that manifold you have - tt 225hp?

I am going to take the stock AEB (larger air intakes) -= chop it, then weld on the intake side from a stock one - with intake on the driver side like the TT ones.

Will do it next week and post pics

my build

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...r-Needs-Help&p=85124767&posted=1#post85124767


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

Look for an AUG manifold. They came on euro cars. They are a large port manifold with the TB on the passenger side. Also do a VR Corrado throttle cable. See my build for pics of the manifold.


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

traderX said:


> I love that manifold you have - tt 225hp?


Yep, its a TT225 manifold. I also went to town on it with a grinder to port match it to the AEB gasket, should flow just fine... especially for a little K03 engine.


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Alright, so back to my coolant system. 



Deathproofcapri said:


> I've had afew beers and I tried to draw it on some ****e iPhone soo but I hope this helps somewhat. The scribbles join, coolant flange to turbo, or how you had it in the previous setup


So I should finish it up like this?










And if so, where am I sourcing these fittings to "T" into these lines. The top radiator hose I'm using is an ABA hose and I have already cut and tapped into it once, its not going to have a lot of room left for another.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Delete in of those t pieces you put in, then plumb expansion tank or heater core to the flange with the port you put an 'X' on. Then plumb the remaining one into the 1 new T piece. Also, for wiring in the fuse box, to the left of it, there are constant 12v outputs on the back, (female spade connectors) and to the right there are switched 12v's which'll come in handy for your wiring. My Ecu, is mounted where the bonnet pull handle usually is, then I just moved the pull up higher. Basically same position as the stick Ecu 'cept it's on the drivers side instead


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Delete *one


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Delete in of those t pieces you put in, then plumb expansion tank or heater core to the flange with the port you put an 'X' on. Then plumb the remaining one into the 1 new T piece.


Well, that open flange is pretty small. Probably too small for the heater core or expansion return, its about the size of the turbo feed or top expansion tank line. What did you use for T pieces?

This guy is what I have in there, the larger port is connected to the heater core as of now.










The bend in that flange is perfect also as it helped move the ABA hose away from the radiator and under the intake manifold, before it was smashed up against the radiator and rad fan.


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Also, for wiring in the fuse box, to the left of it, there are constant 12v outputs on the back, (female spade connectors) and to the right there are switched 12v's which'll come in handy for your wiring.


Woah, VERY good to know... that might just be what I needed to finish that part up. All I need is the 4 switched 12V to be wired up and that's all done.



Deathproofcapri said:


> My Ecu, is mounted where the bonnet pull handle usually is, then I just moved the pull up higher. Basically same position as the stick Ecu 'cept it's on the drivers side instead


I should have taken a photo of this, I made a little bracket that uses a strong Velcro strap to keep the ECU up and mounted under the dash higher up on the drivers side of the car... just forward of where the ECU harness runs in. Similar to yours only higher.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

No worries, I thought it'd be handy to know!! Yeah, that'd be too small lol. I used a splitter from the Audi thecenginecwas from, cut it down, filed and rolled the end. Looks ok. But it will all get tidied and tucked when the car gets broke for a build up/freshen up


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Alright, I think I have the rest of the coolant system figured out. I will tackle that this week/weekend, finish the wiring, mount/run the catch can, then I can get the exhaust put on. It _could be _running this weekend. :thumbup:

I didn't take any photos this weekend, but here is a phone snap with the majority of the coolant system in.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Nice one! Getting there then! Can you stick a pic up of your downpipe? I want to see how mine matches with it and if I was being retarded in designing it overly complex as I thought too much about it lol! In just waiting to relocate my battery as unfortunately my boost pipes get in the way with the ****e setup I have! That and getting this exhaust done with a ****ty gaskets welder I have!


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Nice one! Getting there then! Can you stick a pic up of your downpipe? I want to see how mine matches with it and if I was being retarded in designing it overly complex as I thought too much about it lol! In just waiting to relocate my battery as unfortunately my boost pipes get in the way with the ****e setup I have! That and getting this exhaust done with a ****ty gaskets welder I have!


I'm towing the car this Sunday to the exhaust shop to get the exhaust made, I'll take a photo of it when it exists. Yep I test fitted my radiator, fan, intercooler, battery, I/C piping, etc.. a lot when I was mocking it all up to make sure everything fit. I need to replace the battery cables and terminals as they are ugly and very corroded.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Look forward to seeing it. Yeah I knew I was getting in the way if the battery but I picked the piping and ic up CHEAP so I went with it lol. Cheap is the way to go lol! Good work bud


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Just got mine runnin today. Still need to do an exhaust though but fired straight up. AFTER I sorted a voltage drop problem!


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Just got mine runnin today. Still need to do an exhaust though but fired straight up. AFTER I sorted a voltage drop problem!


Awesome! That's great news!!!! :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: Very happy for you man. Hopefully I'll be doing the same this week. What was your voltage drop issue?


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

The side was because I wired the injectors and coils 12v feeds through relays, on cranking the voltage dropped on both of them down to zero. For now I've bridged them as they both carry an inline fuse also. Also I had to rewrite a fuel pump relay outside the fusebox as I couldn't figure out which pin On the back was its ground pin and assumed it takes it's ground from inside the fusebox in a board


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> The side was because I wired the injectors and coils 12v feeds through relays, on cranking the voltage dropped on both of them down to zero. For now I've bridged them as they both carry an inline fuse also. Also I had to rewrite a fuel pump relay outside the fusebox as I couldn't figure out which pin On the back was its ground pin and assumed it takes it's ground from inside the fusebox in a board


Might have to see how you did your fuel pump relay, I have not wired mine yet either. Good work man, I'm right behind you on this. I have two more coolant lines to run and finish up the wiring (fuel pump and 3 switched 12volts) before I can start it.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Patiently waiting to see this exhaust lol as for the fuel pump relay, just wire in a std 4 pin relay, fuse inline the 12v to it, wire the Ecu fpr trigger wire to the relay ground and you're golden. Mine fires up first turn of the key. No Im getting the bay wiring tidied up abit. Exhaust then throw it back together. Also, the aba temp sensor works perfect. Hopefully yours should be breathing under its own steam this weekend?! Again, double check your 12v feeds don't drop to 0 on cranking as its a problem I had with mine at the beginning. I just had to find a different 12v feed in the fusebox. Looking forward to hearing your progress!


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Patiently waiting to see this exhaust lol as for the fuel pump relay, just wire in a std 4 pin relay, fuse inline the 12v to it, wire the Ecu fpr trigger wire to the relay ground and you're golden. Mine fires up first turn of the key. No Im getting the bay wiring tidied up abit. Exhaust then throw it back together. Also, the aba temp sensor works perfect. Hopefully yours should be breathing under its own steam this weekend?! Again, double check your 12v feeds don't drop to 0 on cranking as its a problem I had with mine at the beginning. I just had to find a different 12v feed in the fusebox. Looking forward to hearing your progress!


Yeah, I had a few setbacks on starting it up. Once I went to put the fusebox back up the ECU was in the way, made the mistake of not checking that first... oops. So i had to re-work that and in doing so made my 12V switched wires too short and had to remove them. Then I forgot that my new gas tank was dry so i could not start it if I had wanted too and it was getting too late. With all the projects going on I completely overlooked the catch can, so I need to get the block breather setup still as well. So in the end no start this weekend. 

I did tow it to the exhaust shop and dropped it off, so when it does start it will be able to drive at least. I should get the downpipe flange in the mail at my work tomorrow, and they will probably start work on the exhaust Tuesday. I'll get photos of the finished product for you of course. Unfortunately I only have a couple cell phone photos from this weekend when we towed it.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Lol yeah that's the joys of crap like this lol. I tempt'd all my wiring connection with excess wiring, now it's all 100% I've trimmed and finalised the wiring. Got tge Ecu where the hood latch used to be, L bracket at the bottom, strapped along centre. And just moved catch up. I'd put a fuel line cleaner in your tank if he's new too. Liqimoly do a good one. I should have tge exhaust done this weekend coming, during tge week, it's just abit if tidying up and battery relocating. Can't go much as I've injured my back though which is a pain in the arse! Did you send those couplers my way? Never saw them


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Also, what are you doing plumbing in your catch can? I was thinking of gettin a later valve cover or tapping mine so I had a breather port in there but I'm not sure yet. Also, that's cool you kept with the oem diverter valve. I didn't as I didn't have one and I've built plenty if turbo setups without running one. . I hate open dump noises do that was a no, and tge sound of turbo winde is smart lol. But unless the bearings , fins and rest if tge turbo are made out of clay, it won't do any damage. I'm going t3/4 in tge future anyway, erst/Cossie spec and I know you can't go wrong there


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Lol yeah that's the joys of crap like this lol. I tempt'd all my wiring connection with excess wiring, now it's all 100% I've trimmed and finalised the wiring. Got tge Ecu where the hood latch used to be, L bracket at the bottom, strapped along centre. And just moved catch up. I'd put a fuel line cleaner in your tank if he's new too. Liqimoly do a good one. I should have tge exhaust done this weekend coming, during tge week, it's just abit if tidying up and battery relocating. Can't go much as I've injured my back though which is a pain in the arse! Did you send those couplers my way? Never saw them


Yeah, I might run over to the exhaust shop tonight and try to re-finish the wiring if I can a bit after work. I ended up mounting my ECU to the left of the steering wheel behind the dash support, worked out well. Yeah, your couplers went out a while ago. If you don't get them let me know, I have more as I didn't use any straights at all in my setup and my piping kit came with a ton.



Deathproofcapri said:


> Also, what are you doing plumbing in your catch can? I was thinking of gettin a later valve cover or tapping mine so I had a breather port in there but I'm not sure yet. Also, that's cool you kept with the oem diverter valve. I didn't as I didn't have one and I've built plenty if turbo setups without running one. . I hate open dump noises do that was a no, and tge sound of turbo winde is smart lol. But unless the bearings , fins and rest if tge turbo are made out of clay, it won't do any damage. I'm going t3/4 in tge future anyway, erst/Cossie spec and I know you can't go wrong there


I'm keeping the engine stock, maybe K04 down the road if I change over to a new transmission, this little car wont need much more than 200HP to be loads of fun so I don't think it will need a valve cover breather. I have a inlet on the intake pipe for the catch can return (I do not want to run vented, my Audi was and the smell was annoying) and I'll run *one of these* off the block with a push lock hose from the block to catch can, then catch can to intake pipe. So it should all work very OE and recirculate with no smell while the crap all gets caught in the can. Yep, I re-used the OEM DV and even the OE hose off a MK4 was used for the DV.

:thumbup:


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Sweet! I'm just dumping mine into the inner wing, so it gets dragged out by the movement if the car. Catch can to come when I'm feeling like spending money lol. Not even touched 500 bucks and I have everything to finish


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Sweet! I'm just dumping mine into the inner wing, so it gets dragged out by the movement if the car. Catch can to come when I'm feeling like spending money lol. Not even touched 500 bucks and I have everything to finish


Nice! 

My car is still sitting outside the exhaust shop waiting to for them to get started on it. I dropped the exhaust flange off yesterday, and they said they would have it ready by the weekend. :thumbup: 
I decided to run 2.5" exhaust from the turbo back with a magnaflow muffler and I did have them add a CAT. A 2.5" downpipe and exhaust with this good sized muffler will be plenty large enough even for more power than I plan on making while hopefully staying pretty quite. Not going with a 3" downpipe should also help with the tight fit between the turbo, shift linkage, and axle.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Sweet! Look forward to seeing it! I've gone without a cat, for now anyway at least, again, due to money, I've stepped the lambda sensor though so it doesn't bring on the light etc. should be done and ready to test this weekend! Need to try get out there and tidy the wiring up but I'm a little crippled! Ha! Just out of curiosity, I don't know much about there engines, only what I've needed to drop it in the jetta (I'm a British ford guy) so, what exactly is needed to touch 200bhp mark with these? In guessing that's about the ko3 limit! They're tiny! My Ecu is chipped, but that's bout it. Although my downpipe is 3" my exhaust back will be 2.5 also as its what I have laying around


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

It you are chipped then you should already be at about 200BHP 240ft/lbs ...most aeb stage 1 software puts it at about there. From there you can go with larger injectors and VR6 Maf then do a stage 2 for a bit more, around 240bhp on the aeb. Although if you're going through that trouble might as well do a K04 at that point. They are very small turbos, but make for a snappy engine. I don't even dare flash mine until I get the 020 replaced, I doubt it will handle 240ft/lbs long.


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

They pulled my car in to start the exhaust and the 3 bolt downpipe flange for the downpipe I ordered was wrong. :banghead: They sent me a 3 bolt cat flange instead and of course its way too small. So now I have to wait for them to send me the new part and my exhaust guy is going out of town next week. This really throws my project back. :thumbdown: So much for getting it running this weekend.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Got one if it's worth me sending it to you?


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Thanks for the offer, but its ok. They are sending me the right part just sucks because it will not be done for another weekend now.


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## britishrocco (Dec 14, 2006)

Waiting on snow to melt here to start the project, got a question. Do you know if there's any wire that can be remove from the harness, cause am trying to clean things up a bit.


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

britishrocco said:


> Waiting on snow to melt here to start the project, got a question. Do you know if there's any wire that can be remove from the harness, cause am trying to clean things up a bit.


Lots of wires are removed, what harness are you referring to?


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## Barney_ZA (Jul 21, 2012)

man that sucks. does the exhaust guy not have bolts?


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Barney_ZA said:


> man that sucks. does the exhaust guy not have bolts?


I didn't get the wrong bolts, I got the wrong flange for the downpipe to be fabricated off of. It's the flange that matches the back of the turbo.


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Alright, proper flange came in this morning and the car is getting pulled in to start fab right now. I'll take some photos of the work later on today. Hopefully its done tomorrow. :thumbup:


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Sweeeet!


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Sorry for the bad cell phone shots.


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

And downpipe...


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

That easy!!? Haga! Well I defenatly went abut overkill with mine hahaha! I must've had one too many when I tackled it.... So the car may be in motion this weekend then bud!? Sweeet! Nice One!!


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> That easy!!? Haga! Well I defenatly went abut overkill with mine hahaha! I must've had one too many when I tackled it.... So the car may be in motion this weekend then bud!? Sweeet! Nice One!!


If only, unfortunately the lower turbo stud was broken. I missed it when I put the engine in the car. So we tried to remove it but the stud broke again inside the turbine housing. So I need to remove the turbo and drill out then tap for a new one. That puts me back.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

That's an utter pain In the arse! Well it'll keep you busy anyway! Hopefully I manage to get afew things sorted thus weekend. Small tick box left to complete


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> That's an utter pain In the arse! Well it'll keep you busy anyway! Hopefully I manage to get afew things sorted thus weekend. Small tick box left to complete


I was hoping to save a tow rental and drive it back, won't happen now. That leaves the car about 35 minutes away and I didn't setup a tow to return it. So I won't even get to work on it this weekend either. This sets me back a lot.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Did you get all your cooling and oil lines done? And all your wiring is completed now? So more or less just the stud!?


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Did you get all your cooling and oil lines done? And all your wiring is completed now? So more or less just the stud?


Yeah, pretty much. Still need to wire up those switched 12V and put gas in it.


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## Barney_ZA (Jul 21, 2012)

ah ok makes sense now

sorry to hear about the troubles. like me this weekend with cam tension. cam follower and dropping allan key to the bottom of the cma belt :banghead:

then popped the boost pipe off the the turbo


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Well, plans on the car kind of got set back. 75 degrees yesterday and sunny, blizzard today. On and off rain and heavy snow. That's spring in Utah for you. 

But I did sit in the car and finished the wiring. Ran the ecu switched 12V connections through two relays and hooked up the fuel pump ground to ecu. Tested all connections and I have power to everything perfectly. Except as I expected, fuel pump is not working. Some previous owner at some point had installed a toggle switch for the fuel pump bypassing the relay. I removed all.that and hooked the factory wires back up....

The pump relay fuse is good and powered, and there is power going to the relay. That's it though, relay is not sending power to the pump and there is no clicking in it. I'm gong to try repmacing the relay and see if that fixes it. If not, guess I will re-wire it with my own relay. 

Then when the weather gets nicer again Ill start pulling the turbo out to repair the broken stud. Blah.


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Some more cell ohone snaps, relay setup:


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Yeah tats as I did, rewired a new relay in for the pump. Just a standard 4 pin relay. As for the weather, was ****e here too, I got fed up of my hoody filling up with rain water whilst on my back underneath the car fitting the exhaust, and once a clumP of crap dropped in my eye, u decided to call ut quits for the day. I ordered 2 90 deg silicone couplers so I can tidy the boost piping more and I have some euro headlights flying over from Germany too which'll be cool to get rid of this hideous front end. Managed to pick them up cheap, much cheaper than what people sell them for over here. Too much money for a set of lights but you pay for rarity I guess. I'll bombard my thread with pics etc once it's all up and running.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

:heart::thumbup::thumbup:


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

How'd you get on buddy!? Got my exhaust sort if on today.. Got more cutting and welding to make the 3" over the rear but I got rough running problems.. Seems to run way too rich, I'll have to plug it onto the diag tomorrow. Spluttering under pickup, idles well, missing when picking up revs. Smells rich, meh. Got fed up so left it for today


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Well it turned out to be a pin on the back of the throttle body plug had infact came lose and dislodged, one of the very few pins I never had to touch. Lesson learned, it's worth double checking every pin expecially the oem ones


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> How'd you get on buddy!? Got my exhaust sort if on today.. Got more cutting and welding to make the 3" over the rear but I got rough running problems.. Seems to run way too rich, I'll have to plug it onto the diag tomorrow. Spluttering under pickup, idles well, missing when picking up revs. Smells rich, meh. Got fed up so left it for today


I Struggled with the fuel pump relay for a bit, the one in it was just not working. I ordered a new one but it was mis-packaged and I got a condenser of some sort instead, so I returned it for another relay. The correct listed Hella relay came in, but it was much different than the one in my fuse box and did not fit. So I returned that one, bought a universal 30amp relay, removed all the fuel pump wiring from the fuse box and wired that one instead... fuel pump is now working and pumping. By that time it was late, dark, and cold and I still did not have any gas in the car so I left it. This morning it was raining again, and I noticed that when I moved my oil cooler during the coolant system build I mis-aligned the oil cooler o-ring and the edge is sitting out. Oops, glad I caught it before oil spit out all over the driveway. So I just need to fix that little detail, put gas in it, connect the starter, and fire it up. Maybe that can be done after work today if the weather is raining/snowing buckets.



Deathproofcapri said:


> Well it turned out to be a pin on the back of the throttle body plug had infact came lose and dislodged, one of the very few pins I never had to touch. Lesson learned, it's worth double checking every pin expecially the oem ones


Good catch! So its running smooth now? Did you drive it?:thumbup: :thumbup:


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Smooth as a babies arse. Not driven it yet as I still have to finish the exhaust over the rear beam. Being a pain and in reluctant to buy any piping ha! Also have no headlights as in waiting on them from Germany, got a pretty sweet deal on a gandful of euro setups from there and Sweden. Hopefully I'll sell afew sets over here for a more realistic price than what people are currently trying to do


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Smooth as a babies arse. Not driven it yet as I still have to finish the exhaust over the rear beam. Being a pain and in reluctant to buy any piping ha! Also have no headlights as in waiting on them from Germany, got a pretty sweet deal on a gandful of euro setups from there and Sweden. Hopefully I'll sell afew sets over here for a more realistic price than what people are currently trying to do


You are swapping to rounds then?


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Nah, mines a mk1 jetta, not a golf. They have ugly front ends over here, I was going to stick an early westy front on but it looks best with the euro setup. I got fed up of people wanting 400 bucks for lights lol, so I took my time and sourced a couple sets from over seas. My brother will b shipping me afew grill and surrounds from uk, got couple sets from Germany and one from Sweden. And I haven't come close to 400 bucks


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Nah, mines a mk1 jetta, not a golf. They have ugly front ends over here, I was going to stick an early westy front on but it looks best with the euro setup. I got fed up of people wanting 400 bucks for lights lol, so I took my time and sourced a couple sets from over seas. My brother will b shipping me afew grill and surrounds from uk, got couple sets from Germany and one from Sweden. And I haven't come close to 400 bucks


Nice, sounds great. I wouldn't mind putting an early westy front on mine either. I like the squares, just don't love the big corner blinkers.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Go for it! Real smart look. Then again the single rounds work for a rabbit but it just looks goofy on a jetta for some reason? How's the progress of the stud? Got fuel in there yet!?


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Go for it! Real smart look. Then again the single rounds work for a rabbit but it just looks goofy on a jetta for some reason? How's the progress of the stud? Got fuel in there yet!?


I think it is possible to swap to the early westy lights without changing the core support, just make some headlight brackets and move the lights outward then put on a early westy grill. I need to look into it more.

No progress, lol. I'm at this job thing.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

You're correct yes. You can keep your remaining core and just make couple if brackets to move the headlights outwards. Couple of fenders, job done


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> You're correct yes. You can keep your remaining core and just make couple if brackets to move the headlights outwards. Couple of fenders, job done


I will have to look into that for when I get it painted. :thumbup:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Early westy foooo llliiffee

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Fixed the oil cooler o ring, hooked up the alternator, and starter and tested out the wiring. injectors, coilpacks, and relay setup all have perfect power, no voltage drops, throttle is clicking, relays are firing, fuel pump is running, and the engine is turning over on crank. Add fuel and she_ should_ fire right up. Being the AEB is a narrowband ECU, has no MAP, and until I remove the turbo and fix the broken stud it wont have an 02 sensor either I'm not expecting it to run well on just a MAF... but I'm going to add a splash of fuel then start it up and let it idle anyway tonight. I'm sure my neighbors will just love the sound of a 1.8T with no exhaust. :laugh:



Vegeta Gti said:


> Early westy foooo llliiffee


Its officially in the plans Chris!


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## izcorrado18 (Aug 21, 2005)

stkshftgti said:


> Fixed the oil cooler o ring, hooked up the alternator, and starter and tested out the wiring. injectors, coilpacks, and relay setup all have perfect power, no voltage drops, throttle is clicking, relays are firing, fuel pump is running, and the engine is turning over on crank. Add fuel and she_ should_ fire right up. Being the AEB is a narrowband ECU, has no MAP, and until I remove the turbo and fix the broken stud it wont have an 02 sensor either I'm not expecting it to run well on just a MAF... but I'm going to add a splash of fuel then start it up and let it idle anyway tonight. I'm sure my neighbors will just love the sound of a 1.8T with no exhaust. :laugh:
> 
> 
> 
> Its officially in the plans Chris!



I ran mine like that for 5 minutes so you should be good. It's a good feeling when it first starts. :thumbup:


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

It would have been a good feeling, I gave it a bunch of fuel and turned her over. Sounded good on cranking but no start. She didn't even try to fire, no ignition at all, not even a sputter. I checked for fuel, lots of that coming, spark plugs looked good. So I pulled out a voltmeter and started to test the voltage at the coilpacks and injectors... perfect voltage on switch, but it dropped to zero on cranking. Traced the voltage drop all the way back to the switched 12V used to power my relays. I removed my switched 12V tap on the back of the fusebox and ran it directly to the switched 12V connection on the back of the ignition.... still dropping. 

I have two 30a relays powering the 3 switched 12V wires needed for the ECU. The relays are powered directly from the battery, the 20a fused line for the coilpacks runs to its own relay and the remaining two 10a fused lines share a relay. All three of these lines are dropping voltage on cranking but are fine when just switched.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Tried to pm you but you're full, first, remove the relay, check your constant 12v while cranking, then check your switched 12v and see if either drop. If they do, you'll need to source another feed. If they don't, bridge/jump/bypass the relay with a wire, from switched 12v pin to your injector (etc) feed pin. See if you get life


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Tried to pm you but you're full, first, remove the relay, check your constant 12v while cranking, then check your switched 12v and see if either drop. If they do, you'll need to source another feed. If they don't, bridge/jump/bypass the relay with a wire, from switched 12v pin to your injector (etc) feed pin. See if you get life


Sweet, will do. If it turns out the 12V switched ignition source is the problem, where else can I tap into? I've already tapped into a source on the back of the fuse box and now I'm directly off the ignition module switched 12V.

PM's cleared BTW.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

You souk don't have any drops at the ignition buddy. I'm having a nightmare at my end. V6 injectors, but I have no idea why too small of an injector would cause it to run rich?? Bloody thing!! How'd you get on with yours?


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> You souk don't have any drops at the ignition buddy. I'm having a nightmare at my end. V6 injectors, but I have no idea why too small of an injector would cause it to run rich?? Bloody thing!! How'd you get on with yours?


The wrong injectors on these engines will cause all sorts of haywire. Until you get stock injectors in your car it will not run at all right. No progress, I'm just getting off work now, I'll run home and jump the relay and see if it runs... then see if I can figure out where the hell to get my switched 12V from.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Sweet, let me know w you get on bud


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

I found a proper switched 12V source that gives power while cranking and tapped into it (Terminal 15 on the ignition module harness BTW). Well, car started up briefly on a couple of cylinders then quickly choked out. It was flooded for sure, and after a few more cranks it fired up but again died out. Then it would not start again. I know the fuel pump was working yesterday when cranking, and it was firing today when cranking until the engine started. Now the relay is not working, no click no power... if I bridge the relay the pump runs but still no fire. I took out the relay and tried another but same story. So at that point I decided to try another approach and ran the fuel pump power into one of my other relays I wired previously to test. Sure enough pump started working on switch/crank. Then I gave the negative to the relay to the ECU as it should be wired and suddenly it stopped working. So the ECU has stopped supplying ground to the relay... I do not know why. It was doing its job yesterday and today before it started. Ugh, I don't get it.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

How'd you get on buddy?


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## traderX (Aug 23, 2013)

Hey everyone - anyone got the pin out for the aeb Ecu for power and ground ? Doing a painless 50002 harness for all accessories - and stock Ecu for motor - thanks !!!


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Read through this thread buddy. I've posted more than enough info on here for help! Cherrs


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## traderX (Aug 23, 2013)

Will do - on tapatalk and have not figured out search yet - lol


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## traderX (Aug 23, 2013)

Deathproofcapri = hell yes - just found your post !!!!! Exactly what I needed - thanks bud


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

traderX said:


> Hey everyone - anyone got the pin out for the aeb Ecu for power and ground ? Doing a painless 50002 harness for all accessories - and stock Ecu for motor - thanks !!!


It's all in this thread man, look on page 1.


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Well its been an eventful day on the car. After lots of trying to get it to start, it would only breifly run. Found oil in a plug and a low compression in that cylinder. Turned out to be a head gasket. Changed the head gasket and now have proper compression on all 4. Still wouldn't start, I sprayed a little carb cleaner and she fired right up. 

This is where it gets funny. 

Turns out it wasn't getting fuel. The factory fuel pump wiring on that relay was for some reason running the rear hatch washer fluid pump. .....yeah. 

So I had been hearing the ecu prime and run the washer resevoir. I laughed hard. So I need to run all new wiring from the pump and get that working. Wow, why that wiring was hooked up way I do not.know.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Pah hahahahahaha hahahahahaha ****ING AWESOME!!!!!!! Traced the wrong wire then bud!! Hahaha!! Hopefully it SHOULD spring into life once you get that fuel pump feed going instead


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Explains why my fuel pump was hooked up to a switch. At some point someone rewired the fuel pump or washer wiring and hooked all the washer wiring into the fuel pump relay spot. The fuel pump relay spot was empty minus the ground. Then I found the fuel pump wiring tapped up and shoved into the carpet. Weird, threw me for a loop. But its sorted now. She runs everyone, and sounds great.


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## dfonzi88 (Jan 26, 2010)

Congrats! :beer:

How's she drive?


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Nice one! Let's get a vid! Also, pm me your address buddy and I'll get those parts up to you if you don't mind doing that for me?


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

dfonzi88 said:


> Congrats! :beer:
> 
> How's she drive?


Thanks man! I have not been able to drive it yet, spent all day getting it running and not being able to address the items stopping me from actually driving it. I still need to bleed the brakes, raise and level out coilovers, add and bleed coolant. And of course, I need to remove the turbo and drill/tap for a new stud then re-install and hook-up exhaust. I'm going to try and finish all that tomorrow.



Deathproofcapri said:


> Nice one! Let's get a vid!


This was the actual first start after attaching the correct fuel pump wire.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

How's you get in tackling this today bud?


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

I got the turbo off and broken stud repaired and exhaust hooked up. The dash is back in and the cluster in as well. Although, now that the cluster is in I'm a bit worried. When I start the car and idle after a few seconds the oil warning light turns on in the dash. Hmmm.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

If I remember correctly, the jh engine had a low pressure and a high pressure sensor? High pressure on the oil filter housing? Blue wire with a female spade connector?


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> If I remember correctly, the jh engine had a low pressure and a high pressure sensor? High pressure on the oil filter housing? Blue wire with a female spade connector?


Yes, I have a blue wire with a black stripe connected to my oil filter housing. That's the only thing connected though, I can't think of anything else connected for oil pressure.


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Also, the oil light turns on constantly without noise after running for a couple of seconds. I thought the oil pressure warning light on the MK1 would buzz and flash?


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

No idea if they buzz or not. There's a low pressure oil sensor too which is maybe yellow/green? I sent you a pic if it. Goes to a pressure sensor on the side of the 8v? Maybe sometging to do with that? Your car revs up fine etc? So runs all good? I'll send my Ecu etc to you after I recieve these injectors, see if I still get problems!


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## traderX (Aug 23, 2013)

*You are running 020 right?*

I am working on wrapping up the build in time for a track day shake down - and ran into a wall - hoping readers of this post can help

1.8T AEB Block
02A Tranny (kaaz LSD)
got a chromoloy flywheel (bolt pattern for a 1.8T) , stage 3 clutch (splined for 02a), and 1.8T pressure plate

Issue is - no way the 1.8T flywheel fits in the 02a Bell

I think i need a 228 flywheel - but anyone know what part numbers match up bolt pattern wise??



and sweet wheels and Proxes R1R rubbers


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## traderX (Aug 23, 2013)

traderX said:


> I am working on wrapping up the build in time for a track day shake down - and ran into a wall - hoping readers of this post can help
> 
> 1.8T AEB Block
> 02A Tranny (kaaz LSD)
> ...


Ahhh- 228 Flywheel from a G60, NOT VR6 looks to be just the ticket !


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

traderX said:


> Ahhh- 228 Flywheel from a G60, NOT VR6 looks to be just the ticket !


Sorry, didn't see that in time but yes seems you found your answer. You need a G60 228 flywheel from what I have read. :thumbup:


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

So after replacing the broken stud in my turbo and putting the exhaust on I could now hear a whine I couldn't hear over the previous open exhaust. After a bit of investigation I found it coming from the turbine side of the turbo. I pulled back the downpipe last night and found a bent fin on the turbine... :banghead:

There is no play in the turbo, spins freely, and there are no markings on the exhaust housing. This leaves me to believe when I received the turbo (separate from the engine) that it either was put in a box with a bolt or hardware or who knows and something bent the fin. It looks a lot like that. I can't catch a break. Luckily I found a replacement locally today I'm going to go pick up on my lunch break. Its a good deal on a K04 from a longitudinal Audi so it should be a direct swap. I'll run it on the stock K03 file until I get a n 02A trans in her then I will add injectors, MAF, and a tune for it.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Mmmmm...kaaz diff. Best for racing

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Ha, any excuse for an upgrade! Haha! Any joy in sorting out that oil pressure light with the info I pm'd?

As for the guy with the questions above, I'm sure you've been told now but it sounds like you have a v6/vr6 flywheel, change it for any 4 cylinder flywheel depending on what clutch setup you go for. I would not get a dual mass though, load of bollocks


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Ha, any excuse for an upgrade! Haha! Any joy in sorting out that oil pressure light with the info I pm'd


Not yet, I have not had a chance to get into it yet. I'll let you know if it works out, will probably try to give it a shot today. :thumbup:


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## izcorrado18 (Aug 21, 2005)

Looking good!!!:thumbup::thumbup:


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

dri0514 said:


> Looking good!!!:thumbup::thumbup:


Thanks man, although everything is sort of like 1 step forward 5 steps backwards lately. Get the stud fixed and exhaust on... but the turbo is bad. Got the dash and interior in... but now I probably have to pull it all out to figure out my oil sensor wiring.

Right now I have a blue/black wire for my oil sensor on the oil filter housing. And nothing for the oil pressure sensor wire that was for the sensor on the JH head. According to Deathproofcapri I should have a blue/black wire for my oil filter housing and it runs to pin #9 on the cluster and a yellow wire for the old head sensor that runs to pin #11

However according to what I'm reading elsewhere I should have a yellow wire on my oil filter housing and a blue/black wire for the cylinder head sensor.

Also, on my cluster pin #9 is solid blue and pin #11 is black/green completely different from both. 

At this point I think it might be best to pull the dash off and trace pin #9 and pin #11 all the way through the harness and figure out where they are actually leading to verify my black/blue wire is correctly hooked up and then run a new wire for pin #9 and ground it. I should also verify my oil pressure is in fact good with a gauge but I don't have access to the oil filter housing without pulling the intake manifold. So I would have to pull it twice to test the oil pressure. Also from what I am reading the oil light is supposed to be flashing, but mine is on constant. I suppose that could be from the low pressure sensor wire that would have been hooked up to the old JH cylinder head just not existing right now. 

Super annoying as I'm very close to being able to drive this sucker but this darn oil light is really going to end up costing me a lot of backwards work it looks like.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Sometimes the colours of the wires are switched. I think it may be to do with being German built to us built. The oil pressure sensor setup is so simple, it won't take much to sort it. Not sure if they used tge Ecu or a relay to blink the oil sensor light. Don't know enough about vw's to help much more than that but it is very simple to suss out


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Sometimes the colours of the wires are switched. I think it may be to do with being German built to us built. The oil pressure sensor setup is so simple, it won't take much to sort it. Not sure if they used tge Ecu or a relay to blink the oil sensor light. Don't know enough about vw's to help much more than that but it is very simple to suss out


Right, I'm just going to have to remove the dash yet again and undo a bunch of wrapped wires to trace them through. A lot of undoing and re-doing previous work.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

The joys of modifying old cars eh!? I just did a quick scour over the Internet and read that they sometimes flip tge colours of the wires. Is yours a 14 pin plug on your clocks?


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> The joys of modifying old cars eh!? I just did a quick scour over the Internet and read that they sometimes flip tge colours of the wires. Is yours a 14 pin plug on your clocks?


Not sure how many pins are on it, I didn't check or retain that info... I was mostly just looking at pin 9 and 11. Still weird that those are green/black and solid blue. Also I do still have all the parts of my original engine harness for the JH and there is not one single yellow wire on it. So even if VW switched the blue/black and yellow ....mine still does not have that yellow. I did drive this thing for a while with the JH engine and never had any oil lights, and all the wires on my engine harness looked original and all had OE looking ends. So I suppose its possible that in 84 VW could have not used a yellow wire, but I cant find anything showing a different color other than blue/black and yellow being used on MK1's.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

What about an orange/red wire? Or it may be yellow/red. I can't tell as I'm colourblind! But it should have a female spade end on it


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> What about an orange/red wire? Or it may be yellow/red. I can't tell as I'm colourblind! But it should have a female spade end on it


Not sure off the top of my head, but I don't remember seeing anything close to orange or yellow. Some reds and red/black... there was a solid blue wire that was longer and had a female spade on it.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

That sounds like the high pressure oil sensor. Almost certain. The other one is low pressure. Yellow/red or orange..


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> That sounds like the high pressure oil sensor. Almost certain. The other one is low pressure. Yellow/red or orange..


I don't have a red/yellow or orange either. I have a solid blue and a blue/black. I'll check again tonight to be sure.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Ignore that cause that's for the temp sensor. I'll have to pull my loom apart to trace them properly for you. I'll get round to it over tge weekend. Fitted injectors, still misfiring. Going to just buy anotger icm. But may just call ut quits for now as its beginning to **** me off ha


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Ignore that cause that's for the temp sensor. I'll have to pull my loom apart to trace them properly for you. I'll get round to it over tge weekend. Fitted injectors, still misfiring. Going to just buy anotger icm. But may just call ut quits for now as its beginning to **** me off ha


Send me your ECU first and I'll test run it.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

I'll send them tomorrow for next day and stick shipping money in tge package too. If you could thatd be sweet


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Of course I will, no problem.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Thanks bud. I'm 99% sure it's tge icm and tge Ecu is good but in going to send them your way anyway! I'm heading down tge postie now to get them
Posted to you. I may do next day depending in price


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Thanks bud. I'm 99% sure it's tge icm and tge Ecu is good but in going to send them your way anyway! I'm heading down tge postie now to get them
> Posted to you. I may do next day depending in price


Next day will be Monday unless you do next day Saturday... that will be pricey.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Managed to squeeze it into the small fixed rate box. Well, my better half did, she just posted it out to you. You'll get it Monday buddy


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Managed to squeeze it into the small fixed rate box. Well, my better half did, she just posted it out to you. You'll get it Monday buddy


Perfect, I'll have the new turbo on by then. I'll test your equipment and let you know.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Sweet, nice one, thanks buddy. Going to get everything else sorted during the week. Got another icm on its way regardless. Hoping you tell me the icm is ****ed as its showing symptoms of it now I got the right injectors in but that's be 2 identically ****ed icms. Don't have a lower timing cover to check timing but I set it to tax on number 1 and all lining up good. If they're both working well, I'll turn to tge timing. Tooth either way. Hopefully have some success by next weekend!


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## dfonzi88 (Jan 26, 2010)

What did you guys use for that gasket/ plate piece that sandwiches between the motor and the trans? The stock jh one?

On a side note this went in yesterday. Big thanks to stkshftgti and and Deathproofcapri for all the info! :beer::beer:


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

dfonzi88 said:


> What did you guys use for that gasket/ plate piece that sandwiches between the motor and the trans? The stock jh one?


Looks great man! My JH and 020 did not have a trans spacer/gasket on it so I did not use anything.


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## dfonzi88 (Jan 26, 2010)

Ahhh ok. I'm just a little nervous about having the flywheel and clutch exposed.


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Oh, that plate. Yeah you can run that if you want. I have never ran any cover plate on my Audi and its never been an issue.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Same, you can use the cover plate from the gearbox you use. I don't think I've put mine back on yet but I do have it. The lower one, just bolts straight back up. Same goes for the smaller one along tge side of the bellhoising. Install looks good


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## dfonzi88 (Jan 26, 2010)

Deathproofcapri I tried to message you this but your inbox is full. 

Are you guys having any hood clearance issues? My throttle body sits about 2" above my core support :banghead:
Is the aba throttle body smaller? Also stkshftgti I don't think I can clock my tb 90* like you did cause I'm using a gti intake manifold and it'll hit my alternator. 

Thanks in advance!!:beer:


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Flip
It 180 deg. I'm using the same inlet, zero issues bud.


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Yup, yours will fit. Just clock until it does.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Any joy with that wire??


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Your inbox is full bud so I'll reply here!
Don't mention it buddy! Glad I could help! Not far to go then til it's a runner! You should recieve my icm and Ecu today, I'm hoping you tell me my icm is dead. That'd make thus build worth carrying in with again haha! Test your fan circuit by just bridging the 2 connections that go the the fan switch on your radiator. Fan should kick in. I had to clean up the terminals on mine. Well I just replaced them. Also there's another connector about 7 or 8 inches off the switch wiring that plugs into the car harness, that was a ****ty connection also so I just cut it out and replaced it. New switch and mine works perfectly. Well providing the switch works but as its new... Air leak should be easy enough to sort! I've got all mine out already, had a minor oil leak and coolant leak, they're all sorted now. Literally just this running issue left and I'm good to go. Oh and mod my bumper and refit my lights when they get here whichll hopefully be today!!


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Meh, another setback for me haha! Not major though but FYI, never use an amazon company called speed shop. I ordered 2 90 deg 2.5" couplers. Over 2 weeks ago. Finally arrive today! I get 1 90 degree 2" coupler... Wtf. So I get on their case, tell them to send the 2 correct parts out via priority mail so I get them this week, yet instead they get back to me hr later telling me they're refunding me. So I mail them again and ask for the correct parts twice... This was at 11am... And nothing back. Useless morons. That's a business? Haha, meh, so I'm on the hunt again for couplers as I can't fit my headlights without them. Try eBay again. You should recieve my Ecu and icm today. Hopefully I hear what I'm hoping about that! How you getting in bud?


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Your inbox is full bud so I'll reply here!
> Don't mention it buddy! Glad I could help! Not far to go then til it's a runner! You should recieve my icm and Ecu today, I'm hoping you tell me my icm is dead. That'd make thus build worth carrying in with again haha! Test your fan circuit by just bridging the 2 connections that go the the fan switch on your radiator. Fan should kick in. I had to clean up the terminals on mine. Well I just replaced them. Also there's another connector about 7 or 8 inches off the switch wiring that plugs into the car harness, that was a ****ty connection also so I just cut it out and replaced it. New switch and mine works perfectly. Well providing the switch works but as its new... Air leak should be easy enough to sort! I've got all mine out already, had a minor oil leak and coolant leak, they're all sorted now. Literally just this running issue left and I'm good to go. Oh and mod my bumper and refit my lights when they get here whichll hopefully be today!!


Are you running your original rad fan? I hooked up a slim fan from a Range Rover on mine, used the range rover wiring and used the Range Rover harness connector to tap into the original MK1 wiring. It should work fine, just have not tested it. No way could I fit my original fan with that TT225 manifold on there. I just need to pull my intake manifold off the car to fix a broken vacuum nipple that I somehow missed before installing it. Found it when bleeding the brakes, I could hear it when pumping the brake booster.  So, pull off manifold, fix broken nipple by drilling, tapping, and installing a plug, add coolant, and she should drive finally. Almost there. Should have it on the road before the weekend! :thumbup:


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Sweet! I just checked tge tracking, looks like the parts arrived with you! Come on please be a fuvked icm!! Yeah I'm using my original fan for now, trimmed down the cowling a little to slide in a lower rad bracket I made and ut fits nice. My rad has moved over 1 1/2" too though. It may still fit with a 225 Mani but I couldn't tell. Maybe not if you had issues. Yeah you can't really go wrong with a cooling fan circuit! I got my euro lights here now but as I said that crappy amazon company shafted me so I have to wait for my new order!


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Sweet! I just checked tge tracking, looks like the parts arrived with you! Come on please be a fuvked icm!! Yeah I'm using my original fan for now, trimmed down the cowling a little to slide in a lower rad bracket I made and ut fits nice. My rad has moved over 1 1/2" too though. It may still fit with a 225 Mani but I couldn't tell. Maybe not if you had issues. Yeah you can't really go wrong with a cooling fan circuit! I got my euro lights here now but as I said that crappy amazon company shafted me so I have to wait for my new order!


I get off work in 5 hours and I'll be home in about 6 hours. I'll test your equipment as soon as I get back and let you know. I even left my kick panel off the dash to reach the ECU easy for a fast swap over. I'll test them separate and together. :thumbup:

I'll get a photo of how close my manifold sits to even my slim fan, its only a few millimeters at best.


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Here is a quick cell phone snap photo as of yesterday. All the coolant lines, fuel lines, catch can, cables, and wiring has really made a clutter in the end. Over time I can start trying to run that all cleaner. The engine just sits very far to one side and everything runs across the bay. Its not the prettiest thing in the world, but she runs good.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

looks smart buddy!! I know what you mean about cluttering lines etc, I could've spent far too
Much time and tucked everything but I just wanted mine tidy and running well! Still working in the 'well' haha. Can't wait to give it a blast! Bet you're the same! I see wgat you mean about space for the fan! Least you got it fitted!! I'd have to change my ic, rad and fan if I were to go 225 inlet. Think I'll stick to mine for now after the amount if time I spent with a bloody die grinder matching the ****er! Ha


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Get your manifold sorted buddy?? Driving it yet?? Got that Ecu and icm in its way back yet? I should have another standard Ecu in my mitts tomorrow. Fit exhaust finished today. Out if curiosity, what did the ship charge you to do your exhaust? Down tge road I may get one redone. Did the best I could making one up out if spares and on my back under the car in stands ha


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Yep, got the intake Mani on last night. I filled it with coolant tonight and took it for the first few runs. Super amounts of fun, little go kart for sure. Needs more boost. 

I shipped your stuff back this morning, sorry it took a couple if days I've had a chaotic few days. You should have it before the weekend.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Hahah sweet!! Yeah that tge problem with boosting. Never enough! Get a vid of it running!


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Hahah sweet!! Yeah that tge problem with boosting. Never enough! Get a vid of it running!


My cluster us not doing much though. No fuel gauge, temp gauge, or speedo. Blinker light works, emergency brake light works, high beam light works and the illumination lights work. Nothing else though. Also none of my gti center gauges are working (volt and oil temp), only lighting up. Weird. My temp gauge didn't work before, but the gas gauge and speedo did and so did my voltmeter and oil temp gauge.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Sounds like an earthing problem


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Sounds like an earthing problem


Agreed, need to look into it better.

Do you know where the ground for all that is?


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Above fuse box area


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

It is not the cleanest swap ever, but it matches the car and is a hell of a lot of fun to drive. :thumbup:



















...Needs more boost. :laugh:


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Boost boost boost! What's next on the list then!? You got a ko4 on there right?? My 30 bucks Ecu arrived today! So did my new icm but that went to girlfriends so I'll have to wait 'til tomorrow to get that. But in theory should be good to go then. I know you can up the boost on standard aeb to 15psi. They don't need a diode as tgey have no map but any higher than that it throws itself into limp mode. Easiest way is a chip. Shame my tune was too rich. Meh.


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

I'm going to wait till I have an 02A in it then I will add a MK3 VR6 MAF, 440cc injectors, and a United Motorsports stage 2 K04 tune. That combo is good for 270awhp on A4's... should be a blast on the MK1. My front tires are struggling for traction as it sits. :laugh:

Car still needs work, the gauges are still not working even after I cleaned and re-installed the grounds. The radiator is leaking, found a hairline crack on the plastic end tank. Hood latch doesn't want to work either. Its not registered right now, and the gauges need to work before it will pass safety.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Nice, sounds like a good goal. Yeah that was bound to happen. Small leaks stc. As for your cluster. You've checked your 12v feed to it? As well as tge ground at the harness


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> Nice, sounds like a good goal. Yeah that was bound to happen. Small leaks stc. As for your cluster. You've checked your 12v feed to it? As well as tge ground at the harness


Not really, ha ha. I need to locate the ground on the harness and look it al over. The center console gauges were working last week when I was trying to crank it over, not sure what changed between then and now that would disrupt that.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Check earths at your fusebox, fuses etc. you'll pin point it


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## traderX (Aug 23, 2013)

*Thanks*

I just wanted to thank you guys on this thread - got the rally car all sorted !


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

^ That thing is sweet!


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Nice one!!


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Spent 4 hours trying to get the gauges working. I'm still at a lost. I checked every chassis ground on the car, all good. The cluster is getting 12V at pin 15. I did fix the speedo, my speedo cable was not seated properly, so that's working now. 

Gas gauge does not work
Temp gauge does not work
Volt gauge does not work
Oil temp does not work

I sent a constant 12V to the temp gauge from the coolant sensor clip, and the needle did raise, so the gauge works and the wiring is good. I have an ABA sensor, and I know the sensor is working as I was able to read the sensor from the OBD port. I don't get it. 

I tested the fuel level sensor wiring and its got power and ground, but no gauge.

I don't get it.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

How did you give the temp gauge 12v? As it gets a ground through the wire from the sensor. If you 12v through that then you're not getting 12v to the cluster


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

I put a 12V wire into the bottom of the sensor and touched it to the battery. Made the gauge climb....


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Yeah you're not gettin 12v to the gauge then. That wire which you touched gives tge ground. Touch it to a ground and see what it does. I'll guarrentee you're not getting 12v to the cluster for you gauges. Either a fuse or bad connection/wire


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

There is only one 12V I can find to it in the Bentley, pin 15 and its getting power. I verified all grounds.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Hmm, what happens when you earth tge wire? It should shoot up then. I can't tell you
Much more without looking at a diagram. I'll have z hunt when I'm home


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Did you manage to sort this? You have 12v going into the. Lister when it's running, there must be a break somewhere on the cluster itself? Immusing tge Ava sensor also, ran mine up to temp today, gauge works perfectly. You did ground the other wire coming off tge sensor right? There's 4 wires. 2 go to tge Ecu, 1 to cluster/gauge and tge other is a ground wire. Fuel gauge, bridge the terminals by tge sender, see if it rises. If so, give terminals a good clean, you may even have a faulty sender. If they've been left dry for a while they can become sticky. We're they all working before? New coil mine runs brilliant.


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Been driving the car all weekend, even an 80 mile round trip to a car meet last night. She drives flawless and is a load of fun!








































Deathproofcapri said:


> Did you manage to sort this? You have 12v going into the. Lister when it's running, there must be a break somewhere on the cluster itself? Immusing tge Ava sensor also, ran mine up to temp today, gauge works perfectly. You did ground the other wire coming off tge sensor right? There's 4 wires. 2 go to tge Ecu, 1 to cluster/gauge and tge other is a ground wire. Fuel gauge, bridge the terminals by tge sender, see if it rises. If so, give terminals a good clean, you may even have a faulty sender. If they've been left dry for a while they can become sticky. We're they all working before? New coil mine runs brilliant.


Still not sorted, no. 
Yes coolant sensor is grounded. And the ecu reads it fine, I've been monitoring coolant temps through it. 

I did bridge the fuel sensor port, but no gauge movement. The fuel sensor connector is showing ground and power through the voltmeter.

I don't think temp gauge worked before, fuel gauge did. The only time I got gauge movement was when I gave the temp website wire 12V. 

Voltmeter and oil temp gauges worked before also, but those no longer do. I do know the voltmeter worked fine even a couple weeks ago when I was trying to start the car. 

I dont have any fuses for cluster gauges, just cluster lights, and its fine.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

You defenatly have a 12v drop for those sensors. Guarrenteed. Glad the car drives well!! Nice one! Nice note from the exhaust?


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Deathproofcapri said:


> You defenatly have a 12v drop for those sensors. Guarrenteed. Glad the car drives well!! Nice one! Nice note from the exhaust?


Exhaust sounds great, little loud on the freeway in 5th... but its an old tin can. Where would be best to check the sensors for 12V drop?


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Exactly! It's not a car for cOmfort ha! I'm not sure without looking at a diagram as your cluster is obvously different to mine. Can you see tge cluster board? See where the 12v splitter goes to feed the sensors? If not, take a pic of the back if tge cluster and I'll look up a wiring diagram for it


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Ohd any joy on that tracking number? See where it's got to


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Bunny passed emissions test first shot with flying colors. :thumbup:


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Here's One of my polished turd..


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

i actually have the same wheels from an e30, the basket weaves, on my gli right now...poor 165/60's scream so loud when pounding lol


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Try 175/70's...... Ha. Was thinking of 185/55's or 175/50's they're what I usually ran on 13's but wether I can get them easily enough over here. And cheap enough


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Put a chipped ecu in it last night, now things are getting a little more fun.


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

stkshftgti said:


> Put a chipped ecu in it last night, now things are getting a little more fun.


What tune did you go with?


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

I put a flashed Unitronic stage 1 ecu from a buddies A4 that currently isn't running. I'm going to flash my ecu with a United Motorsport K04 tune or something similar when I get the new trans in it.


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## 1.8T16vhead (Aug 3, 2006)

nice job tyler 
bunny looks great 
can't wait to see it in person


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## traderX (Aug 23, 2013)

Well, we got her running - missed the RECCE day - but started Day one.

She overheated when i melted the turbo water line 90 seconds into the stage.

we wrestled her all day Saturday, and made it to the Monticello Motor Club Stages at 7am !!!

She ran like a cat the whole day - amazing lil car - just wanted to say THANK YOU for all who helped


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Looks like a blast man, great job!


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## traderX (Aug 23, 2013)

*And a video*



stkshftgti said:


> Looks like a blast man, great job!


LIL VIDEO OF US AT SPEED

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10152786086744972&set=o.1465301370373162&type=2&theater


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## Vam0328 (Jul 24, 2011)

stkshftgti said:


> Been driving the car all weekend, even an 80 mile round trip to a car meet last night. She drives flawless and is a load of fun!


is your original tach working? im doing a 1.8t swap as well my fuel gauge no longer works for some reason and im trying to figure out a way to make my tack work and my temp gauge if you or anyone here *have any ideas or figured out a way* pls let me know:beer::beer:


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Vam0328 said:


> is your original tach working? im doing a 1.8t swap as well my fuel gauge no longer works for some reason and im trying to figure out a way to make my tack work and my temp gauge if you or anyone here *have any ideas or figured out a way* pls let me know:beer::beer:


You need a digital to analog tach converter, MSD makes one.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

8920 is the one

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## Vam0328 (Jul 24, 2011)

Vegeta Gti said:


> 8920 is the one
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


yea i was doing some research last night and i found that msd adapter
does anyone know why my fuel gauge stopped working though. harness to the pump seems to be fine. but the cluster doesnt work at all.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Test tge oon at the pump. Give it an extra earth as the earths get **** commonly. Mine was temperamental this week. I just gave it a decent earth and it's sorted now


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Looks like I'm going to have to figure something else out other than this radiator fan probably. I got stuck in warmer weather, with lots of sitting at red lights and stop and go traffic. Ugh. Car had a hard time staying under 228.8 degrees and spent some time in 237 and even 245. Damn. It's only about 85 degrees out today.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

****. What antifreeze you using? Premium? Mine sits around 195-200. I'm using all stock cooling


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

I'm using OE G12 coolant 50/50 with distilled. Now I have a few coolant leaks under it also, one might be water pump but its hard to tell. I don't believe it was leaking before that I can tell.


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## dfonzi88 (Jan 26, 2010)

wiring woes..

i'll start with the fuel pump relay

according to the diagram you posted up on the first page ecu pin 4 should be wired to pin 86 or 85 on the fuel pump relay? I don't have a 85 or 86 pin and when i check the connector pin 87 and 31 are grounded. when i find the correct pin do i cut the wire behind the fuel pump relay connector and wire it in there? if i jump pin 15 to 87 or 87 to 31 the pump kicks on. 

second

im using this small fuse block to keep the engine wiring separate. 

all 4 wires off the left side are wired straight to the battery 

first fuse goes straight to pin 4 on the ecu and pin 16/13 on the obd port

the three switched connections are then wired from this fuse block to 3 different relays which power the injectors fuel pump relay and coils.

the trigger for the three relays was wired to the grey/yellow? wire off the ignition switch until i found the voltage drops there when cranking.
where is a good switched connection to activate these relays. otherwise does everything else sound ok??

the motor cranks just fine but doesn't want to fire. Is it because the ecu isnt seeing ground from the fuel pump relay? i tried to ground it to the body but still no luck.

lastly my obd port has 6 wires coming out of it
i wired pin 4 and 5 to ground
7 to the k line on the ecu
and 13 and 16 to constant power
does pin 1 have to be wired to anything? i'm not able to read any codes with my scan tool but it does get power.

and for some reason i'm not getting any lights or anything at my cluster any more.... not sure what that's about.


thanks in advance for any help. I hate this wiring **** :banghead::banghead:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

I'm running 2 spal fans. A 7" and a 14". My car stays cool.



Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## Vam0328 (Jul 24, 2011)

dfonzi88 said:


> the motor cranks just fine but doesn't want to fire. Is it because the ecu isnt seeing ground from the fuel pump relay? i tried to ground it to the body but still no luck.


I switch to a 4 pin relay and and deleted the 31 pin... i just added the ground fron the ecu to the relay and left the relay in he same.spot where the original relay is at


Sent from my LG-LS980 using Tapatalk


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

You're close.



dfonzi88 said:


> wiring woes..
> 
> i'll start with the fuel pump relay
> according to the diagram you posted up on the first page ecu pin 4 should be wired to pin 86 or 85 on the fuel pump relay? I don't have a 85 or 86 pin and when i check the connector pin 87 and 31 are grounded. when i find the correct pin do i cut the wire behind the fuel pump relay connector and wire it in there? if i jump pin 15 to 87 or 87 to 31 the pump kicks on.
> ...


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Vegeta Gti said:


> I'm running 2 spal fans. A 7" and a 14". My car stays cool.


I'm not sure if its because it got so hot, or why it got so hot. But now I have some pretty good coolant leaks, and it appears it might be the waterpump itself leaking. I need to fix these leaks then see if that corrects the overheating issue. It was not leaking like this before.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Bear in mind with sudden leaks after a heated drive. That some clamps can grow and shrink due to the temp rise and fall. Crappy clamps/pipes will do that. Also an old seal/gasket on your waterpump. I was going to repeat myself to tge guy above asking about wiring issues but I'm sure you've helped. I'm pretty sure it's all been covered in this thread too. Hopefully help him out with a bit of a read through. Just took the jetta along 22. Yeah, I need new clocks. Mine ends at 85 and.... Yeah


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Mine doesn't end at 85, but it sure does start to bounce a lot around there. Haha, don't think it ever drove above 60 before.


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Yup, its the waterpump.... pouring out of the weep hole. Hopefully I can just replace that guy and it will fix the leak and overheating problem in one go. :thumbup:


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Ordered a new waterpump, new radiator (there was a small pin-hole leak in one of my end tanks), and a second smaller slim fan. Hopefully that takes care of all the cooling issues. :thumbup:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

that would def do it man. glad it didn't cook itself off


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Vegeta Gti said:


> that would def do it man. glad it didn't cook itself off


I hope it didn't anyway.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

you'll know when you get it running again lol


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Replaced the AEB water pump and put in a new radiator with two new slim fans. Changing an 058 1.8T waterpump when it is mounted transverse is a sucky job.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

looks soo much better man.

the verdict?


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Vegeta Gti said:


> looks soo much better man.
> 
> the verdict?


Its cold here again, so no need for the fans yet, ha ha. I tested the fans directly off the battery and they had plenty of power, but after I let car idle to temp and make them kick on they turned on with a small amount of power... I dont think the stock fan wiring is up to the job, so I'm going to wire in my own relay and power to them and that should do it.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

yeah..i made a small harness for mine as well.


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## traderX (Aug 23, 2013)

*Selling the Rocket Ship  1984 Tarmac / Rally / Track GTI*

Those of you that followed my build know we poured our heart and soul into this build. I am going to build a 911 this summer - so this car, plus my Focus Rally car is a bit too much for wifey 



1984 GTI 
220HP with the GIAC TUNE
1800lbs Car with cage
FAST
Full NASA+ Spec Cage.
Fully Seam Welded
Solid Metal Motor Mounts 
Proper 1.8T (1998 AEB from 1998 Passat) Swap. 
K04 Turbo New
FMIC New
02A Transmission - 80miles on rebuilt gearbox
Kaaz LSS 80 miles on new LSD
New Shift tower
8 Rims - new
6 Toyo Proxes R1R with 80 miles on 4 of them - 2 full spares on rims
new control arms
new poly bushings
new brake lines
16V front and rear Caliper Swap
New 16v front and rear rotors
new 16v Hawk Blue Pads +Spares
New FIA 3.5 Fuel Cell
Carbon Fiber Dash
Carbon Fiber WideBody
Carbon fiber Hood
Carbon Fiber Molds for all panels above
Painless Wire Harness (Accessory)








$12,999 with spares
[email protected]


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## mk1g60gti (Dec 2, 2003)

I put an AEB into my mk1 with an O2a and hydro clutch conversion...I bolted it in back in 2006ish and have not touched it since...still need to wire it and plumb the coolant system..this is a great thread and had motivated me to finally finish it up!!!


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## dfonzi88 (Jan 26, 2010)

How's this thing treating ya?


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

wish you could've gone for a spin in the MK1 while you were here man


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

dfonzi88 said:


> How's this thing treating ya?


Needs more power still :laugh:

But its been fun, I've been driving the piss out of it and its been for the most part great. I added two new slim fans and a new radiator to it, but its still running hot at times. Even when the fans kick on during hot days it starts to overheat if left at idle or heavy slow traffic. Its also starting to run too hot even at certain slower speed. Ugh. Maybe I need a fan shroud or something to better direct air flow through the radiator. 



Vegeta Gti said:


> wish you could've gone for a spin in the MK1 while you were here man


I know man, I wish I could have seen your car in person and had a ride. Just too much going on and not enough time to do it all while I was there. I'll be back again, next time for sure. :thumbup:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

i ditched a shorud for airflow..

simplify your setup maybe? got a pic of the bay as it currently sits?

what temp fan switch? what temp thermostat? what voltage to the fans? checked for bubbles and drawn the system now that it's been run for awhile?


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Vegeta Gti said:


> i ditched a shorud for airflow..
> 
> simplify your setup maybe? got a pic of the bay as it currently sits?
> 
> what temp fan switch? what temp thermostat? what voltage to the fans? checked for bubbles and drawn the system now that it's been run for awhile?




Its pretty simple I believe, photo wont show much. I have a diagram of how its setup somewhere.... No bubbles in the system, I filled it using a venturi and it doesn't overheat except in certain circumstances. 
I ran a 12G wire directly from the battery and a 40A relay with a 12G wire to the fans. They should not be having any problems getting proper voltage. One is a 9" slim fan and the other is a 10" slim fan both rated for 1750CFM. The fan switch is the stock MK1 switch, kicks on at 200F. Thermostat is the OE AEB thermo.


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Hey its raining!

And my MK1 apparently leaks a lot of water into the cabin. :laugh:

Passenger side carpet is soaked, and drivers side is spitting a lot of water onto my left foot when I drive. I think the drivers side is coming from the grommet-less hole in my firewall where all the wiring is ran. I cant find the cause of the leak on the passenger side however.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Window seal or fresh air inlet for ac

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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

No more ugly huge bumpers, added the plastic euro small bumpers last night.










Also ordered a new GTI grill, the headlight surrounds broke, and mine is faded and warped like crazy so I should have that in soon. 

I'm also starting work on a custom gauge cluster I want to build myself. The MK1 gauge cluster is crap and I want something that can keep up with the 1.8T better. More coming on that project soon. :thumbup:



Vegeta Gti said:


> Window seal or fresh air inlet for ac


Perfect, I'll look into those.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

i want your stock bumpers and mounting,etc!!


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Well, I'm still having overheating issues. 

If the weather stays under 75 degrees F or so then it runs just fine. However, if it gets hotter than that (and its about 90 degrees here in and climbing now) then she overheats. Doesn't matter the speed, I can be driving on the freeway or around town anywhere from 20MPH to 80MPH and temps will steadily climb. I have a perfect mix of 50/50 G12 and distilled water, I filled the system using a venturi and have no air bubbles. Again, car does not overheat when ambient temperatures are under 75 degrees or so. I'm using a new aftermarket replacement MK1 JH GTI radiator with two slim fans 9" and 10" that are wired on a separate harness and run plenty of power rated at 7500 CFM each. Regardless of the fans, they don't push as much air as freeway speeds, and it overheats at those speeds as well. My coolant system is built using a bunch of random hoses, including the top rad hose out of an ABA.

This is how my coolant system is ran:










I'm thinking either the radiator just is not doing the job or maybe the way my coolant system is ran is off a little. Not so sure.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

I'm still looking to get mine to shift abit quicker..! How'd you get on with a tune?? Water in your footwell could possibly be corroded in your front wheel arch. Have a little poke around in there, almost guarrentee you'll find it's gone. Give your car a block test, make sure you go no gasses in your coolant. You never know! Mine, sits a little hotter than the old 8v but that's expected. No overheating etc. original tad and fan with original shroud modified to fit.


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## britishrocco (Dec 14, 2006)

put my engine in the car this weekend, got some trouble with the intake, got a question for you, is your turbo really close to the shift linkage?


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

one is yeah. I've got a 3" pipe made coming off the turbo because it was all I had, and was all being done cheap. I've got around 6 mill Clearance from the linkage. You can get more space using 2.5 or 2" obvously. And is all doable


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## dfonzi88 (Jan 26, 2010)

what was the problem with the cluster. i still cant figure mine out:banghead:


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Not sure, I've been through all the wiring multiple times to no avail. Could just be a faulty cluster or something similar maybe. Regardless, it doesn't matter now as I'm making my own cluster.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Coolant issue. .. Get to that yet brother?


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Vegeta Gti said:


> Coolant issue. .. Get to that yet brother?


It's still running hot, have yet to find a solution.


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Just finishing up my custom cluster.


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## dfonzi88 (Jan 26, 2010)

Damn the cluster looks awesome!


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## Vam0328 (Jul 24, 2011)

That cluster is dope


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Thanks guys, the factory cluster is riddled with issues, overpriced to replace, and had a hard time keeping up with the 1.8T engine in mine. So I moved the fuel level gauge and water temp gauges into the GTI center console gauge locations, and built this to replace it. The speedo is powered by a GPS, so no cables or wires and makes it easy to change transmissions in the future. It has a lot of cool features such as 0-60, top speed, directional, accelerometer, 1/4th mile time, and keeps track of trips and total mileage. The rev counter works directly from the 1.8T ECU. I had these gauges custom made, I designed the colors, numbers, ticks, lighting, needle, bezel, etc... and even added a MK1.8T logo I made for the speedo for a custom little touch. The numbers glow white and the needle glows red. All the center lights lights on the cluster such as brake, battery, oil warning, brights, blinker, etc.. .all still function normally. I had a spare cluster I took apart, and found a cool OE textured plastic I cut and shaped to use as gauge housings that is mounted to the cluster.


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

Nice, the gps speedo sounds like a smart idea!


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## odj (Nov 26, 2001)

Dig the cluster. What brand speedo and tach are those?


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

They are made by a company called Speedhut. Got them all installed yesterday. All the lights in the center console for blinker, brights, battery, etc... All work. I even installed an extra light that I hooked up to the ecu for the CEL. I bought new VDO gauges for fuel, water temp, and voltage and moved those into the gti gauge holders above the shifter. 

Here is the cluster installed.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

So. . It's in. ... Coolant issue figured out?


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

No, It's still running hot.


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Alright, I decided to try out a theory on the overheating issue. There is some space between the radiator, front of car, and intercooler. I built some fan shrouds out of cardboard as a test to force the air through the radiator to make sure it was not all flowing around it. Sure enough, that solved the issue. My cardboard radiator shrouds are keeping it plenty cool, even at the over 100 degree weather. So now I just need to remake them from some sheet metal and that problem should be solved!


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## zaskar (Jan 17, 2000)

stkshftgti said:


> Alright, I decided to try out a theory on the overheating issue. There is some space between the radiator, front of car, and intercooler. I built some fan shrouds out of cardboard as a test to force the air through the radiator to make sure it was not all flowing around it. Sure enough, that solved the issue. My cardboard radiator shrouds are keeping it plenty cool, even at the over 100 degree weather. So now I just need to remake them from some sheet metal and that problem should be solved!


I did not read your full thread, but, did you replace the passat/a4 aeb coolant sensor for a mk3 one ? it not, then you have too, not the same sending at the cluster...


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

zaskar said:


> I did not read your full thread, but, did you replace the passat/a4 aeb coolant sensor for a mk3 one ? it not, then you have too, not the same sending at the cluster...


Yes I did. It does not matter anyway as I'm not using the cluster to monitor temps anyhow, as I have a custom cluster now. I'm using a VDO temp gauge and the OBDII port via bluetooth to monitor engine temps.


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## 69vdub (Apr 24, 2007)

so jelly tyler. looks good though and definately got this saved to my favorites


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## mk1agutoo (Apr 3, 2014)

*battery fuse box*

Hi sorry to hijack your thread, im currently , stripping my audi a3 donar car do I need to keep the battery mounted fuse box or can I delete this ?? 

Im also running a mk3 fusebox .


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Updates


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## B6handofgod (May 20, 2012)

hows it coming along ?


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## stkshftgti (Oct 11, 2005)

Mostly just driving. Nothing new really. It got too cold to drive it, so now it's sitting in the garage.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Drive it. Updated pics


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## Deathproofcapri (Aug 18, 2013)

i'm already on my second 20v................. the first one i dropped in **** itself so i finished dropping this one in tonight


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## mk1vDUBtec (Aug 12, 2009)

stkshftgti said:


> Well, I'm still having overheating issues.
> 
> If the weather stays under 75 degrees F or so then it runs just fine. However, if it gets hotter than that (and its about 90 degrees here in and climbing now) then she overheats. Doesn't matter the speed, I can be driving on the freeway or around town anywhere from 20MPH to 80MPH and temps will steadily climb. I have a perfect mix of 50/50 G12 and distilled water, I filled the system using a venturi and have no air bubbles. Again, car does not overheat when ambient temperatures are under 75 degrees or so. I'm using a new aftermarket replacement MK1 JH GTI radiator with two slim fans 9" and 10" that are wired on a separate harness and run plenty of power rated at 7500 CFM each. Regardless of the fans, they don't push as much air as freeway speeds, and it overheats at those speeds as well. My coolant system is built using a bunch of random hoses, including the top rad hose out of an ABA.
> 
> ...


Nice build man :thumbup:
I'm re-running and cleaning up coolant lines in my bay right now. I'm switching to the mk4 1.8t coolant flange from the AEB coolant flange... What kind of line did you use to run the 3rd port on the mk4 coolant flange to the turbo? Did you need a step down of some sorts? IIRC, the turbo coolant line is smaller and the port on the mk4 flange is a bit bigger.
:thumbup: thanks in advance.


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## bl33ch3 (Feb 28, 2014)

Hey everyone, I have been reading through this thread for a few days.

Originally I wanted to put a vr6 in my mk2, unfortunately due to my location I haven't been able to find a good donor car.
However
I have a 99 audi a4 1.8tQ with the aeb engine, my question is how different is this engine compared to and aeb from a passat? Will I encounter any major hurdles compared to one from a vw? I noticed OP seems so be an audi guy.

Thanks in advance.


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## mk1vDUBtec (Aug 12, 2009)

bl33ch3 said:


> Hey everyone, I have been reading through this thread for a few days.
> 
> Originally I wanted to put a vr6 in my mk2, unfortunately due to my location I haven't been able to find a good donor car.
> However
> ...


they are the same.


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## jagdpanther9 (Mar 14, 2015)

great thread! it is very nice to find this info!


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## High Body slc (Aug 23, 2004)

How did you route your new setup?


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## izcorrado18 (Aug 21, 2005)

Looking good!!!! :thumbup::thumbup:


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## 88_8v (Apr 25, 2015)

Awesome thread, car is looking good. Just getting ready to embark on my swap and had a question for clarity regarding the wiring aspect of this. When you splice, are the joins for the injectors and coils on the engine side of the harness or fuse block side of harness? I pulled the complete engine harness, stripped the under dash harness and pulled as much wire on the fuse block side as I thought I would need. Thanks.


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## Leno182 (Sep 7, 2015)

*Need a little help*

Since you know a good deal about the wiring is it cool if I pm you with a few questions?


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## Leno182 (Sep 7, 2015)

So do I even need the wires from my diner car that were under the dash? I pulled out almost everything just in case. Or do i only need the wires coming from the engine into the box b4 the ecu?


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## TeamPeña (Nov 18, 2014)

stkshftgti said:


> Well its been an eventful day on the car. After lots of trying to get it to start, it would only breifly run. Found oil in a plug and a low compression in that cylinder. Turned out to be a head gasket. Changed the head gasket and now have proper compression on all 4. Still wouldn't start, I sprayed a little carb cleaner and she fired right up.
> 
> This is where it gets funny.
> 
> ...


Still laughing at this......:laugh:


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## Cushy (Oct 16, 2008)

Well, this car changed hands a few times before I got my hands on it. It was sans a few brake items, which we have since reattached and bled. Went to a mk3 booster and 22mm master now, but when we welded the Mk1 pedal end to the booster actuating rod, I may have gotten the measurement a little long. It brakes well, but the pedal sits a little lower than I feel comfortable with, so I may pull that out and cut it and reweld it. After that we got it to start, and first and second gear are generally useless :laugh: but that all said we're chasing some wiring gremlins. theres some......funky things up with this wiring to say the least. About 3 times as many relays as needed. The Berg flares are being sold and a clipper kit is going on. Ive gotten some heat for that and ill probably get some more, but to do the berg flares right takes more work than I want to put into a clean rust free shell. Would seem a shame to chop it for that, and the early 90s DTM look does more for me than a full out widebody hillclimber. It does now have a rear mounted battery and im waiting on a mk3 tray to get refinished before mounting it to the floor of the trunk so its held in well. Im using a BMW battery bus terminal up in the bay to help with jump starting and Ive made a bracket to mount it to the inner fender where the old tray is (going to remove that via spot welds). But so far the plan is to:

-get the cabby dash swap in and finished (the original dash was lost along the way. probably toasted)
- get the wiring sorted correctly. 
-the fans arent turning on yet, so see above
- get the clipper kit mounted
- some decent seats (acquired)
- zender turbos (acquired)
-rear pop outs (acquired)
- refinish the rear beam to allow both triangulation and rear sway bar (currently the rear sway is off due to triangulated mounting point)
-clean up the paint (it was wrapped even though the paint is okay, sans the roof where there is buffer burn)
- lower it a little more with some proper handling coils
- stage 2 (already have injectors, just need software)
- sort the plumbing to make it a bit more tidy and generally easier to work on

lots of work to do, but its a decent little car. :thumbup:

i dont come on here nearly as often as I used to, because FB and the scene killed it all  
But, if you are interested in following my (slow) progress, then the IG is :the_cush27 or the shop is mayo_motoren. We do all things german, but were all mk1 guys at heart. :wave:


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## Cushy (Oct 16, 2008)

The car is in good company 




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## 69vdub (Apr 24, 2007)

Cushy said:


> Well, this car changed hands a few times before I got my hands on it. It was sans a few brake items, which we have since reattached and bled. Went to a mk3 booster and 22mm master now, but when we welded the Mk1 pedal end to the booster actuating rod, I may have gotten the measurement a little long. It brakes well, but the pedal sits a little lower than I feel comfortable with, so I may pull that out and cut it and reweld it. After that we got it to start, and first and second gear are generally useless :laugh: but that all said we're chasing some wiring gremlins. theres some......funky things up with this wiring to say the least. About 3 times as many relays as needed. The Berg flares are being sold and a clipper kit is going on. Ive gotten some heat for that and ill probably get some more, but to do the berg flares right takes more work than I want to put into a clean rust free shell. Would seem a shame to chop it for that, and the early 90s DTM look does more for me than a full out widebody hillclimber. It does now have a rear mounted battery and im waiting on a mk3 tray to get refinished before mounting it to the floor of the trunk so its held in well. Im using a BMW battery bus terminal up in the bay to help with jump starting and Ive made a bracket to mount it to the inner fender where the old tray is (going to remove that via spot welds). But so far the plan is to:
> 
> -get the cabby dash swap in and finished (the original dash was lost along the way. probably toasted)
> - get the wiring sorted correctly.
> ...


I knew Tyler was gonna sale it and was wondering what ever happened to this car. How many owners between Tyler and you? Seems like a lot has happened to it, cause other than the motor swap I remember everything else was pretty much stock


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## paco115 (Jun 25, 2013)

Deathproofcapri said:


> here you go buddy, if you need any ore, just ask, but i didn't want to blow up your thread!
> anyway, these will come in handy, theyre the pin list and locations
> 
> 
> ...


Links are dead. Anyway you could send me all those? Thanks a millon 

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## blackfxgt (Dec 22, 2015)

Iam also looking for the wiring pics but the links are dead to them. Could someone repost them. Thanks


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## Cushy (Oct 16, 2008)

69vdub said:


> I knew Tyler was gonna sale it and was wondering what ever happened to this car. How many owners between Tyler and you? Seems like a lot has happened to it, cause other than the motor swap I remember everything else was pretty much stock
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Generally it is. Tyler sold it to a guy, and then I think it switched hands once more before it got to the guy I bought it from. Not 100% but it wasnt a long amount of time. The car has a full disc swap already, but has since been finished up. Works great. Brakes better than my mk4 does. The car is sitting on some sort of cup kit. It may be Konis and Neuspeed Sports. The wiring was just too much of a headache to sort through correctly, so I finished up the cabby dash swap, and got the cluster mostly working. Its been a bit of a pain because I'm new to wiring and reading diagrams hasnt been my forte. Not to mention you have to integrate the german pig tails from a Cabby harness into the american wiring. While I couldve swapped the whole car to something different like CE2 or what have you, I didnt feel that was entirely neccessary and may have produced more work than needed. Then theres the mounts. I thought the outside mounts would be sufficient, but once I had a dash in there, it was wedged a little I think and started to sag in the middle, so I cut some center brackets off of a cabby and those will be making there way on there. The oil pressure and water temp works, and the cluster lights up and the hazards flash and the headlights work, so its pretty much there, but I think I need a fuel sender, and there still needs to have a tach signal converter installed....but that leads us to the current micro-project: 06X harness.

The motor is an 058 with an AEB and chinese K04 (so not a -22 or -23, and thus only an impeller, not a K04 housing), so now im going through and acquiring all the proper sensors and parts to run an 06x harness on it. The MAF is different, a MAP needs to be put in, crank position and coolant temp sensors are different, throttle body, coils etc. Part of my reasoning wasnt only because it had 4 relays wired to each other to run the fuel pump (so simplify), but also because the routing was a bit haphazard. The harness was 058, so it was made to work with a transverse motor, and this makes it a bit short to be what i feel is properly routed in a longitudinal bay. It was interfering with the 020 shift linkage, and was a bit tight around the booster and it also put the ECU directly in conflict with the pedal cluster\fuse box, and I dont like having that much stuff up under there. So the old harness has been yanked and the new harness has had a few things cleared out of it and will be getting the remaining parts this weekend. With any luck, and some help from my excellent friends at Mayo Motoren, it will soon be a safely running and driving 1.8t, this time without cooling issues. The plan is to drive it to Bonelli and maybe to Yellowstone or somewhere fun this year, so it needs to not catch on fire or have any electrical mishaps. From that standpoint, my worst fear is being on the side of the road with one wire out of a hundred that keeps it from functioning, buried in the harness somewhere. But it is a VW, so I say that well knowing that will probably be the case at some point  I have also purchased a factory k04 and manifold, but it will require a redo on the boost piping, so while that is in the cards, it probably wont be while we do the wiring. One bite at a time I suppose. 

As for those who are asking for the pictures of the wiring walk through, I dont have those unfortunately. But I do know there is an update or patch of Firefox that will reverse all the photobucket junk and allow you to see all the photos as they were 

Pic of 058 harness that came out of the car


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