# The dirt on Seafoam????????



## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

After replacing the spark plugs on my 2000 jetta 2.0 we used a special tool to look inside my engine only to find a small amount of sludge. I know manny people are against using any cleaning additives but has anyone ever use a product called Seafoam? It seems very popular, would change oil, oil filter and fuel filter after use. $10 dollars at autozone.


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## AudiJunkie (Jun 19, 2009)

Ok, DO NOT put it in your oil.


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## AudiJunkie (Jun 19, 2009)

It's a fine solvent for intakes and such, but way too harsh for inside an engine. edit-engine SUMP

The main problem I have with it is seal compatibility. As it is not tested for such, and it will melt them. All oils are tested for seal compatibility, Seafoam is not. If you want a solvent flush, use something less harsh, Kero, Diesel or best of all BioDiesel.


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## AudiJunkie (Jun 19, 2009)

The way to do it is not leave it in the engine while driving for two reasons. First it will thin the oil the same as excess fuel does. "fuel dilution" is well known, and physically and chemically damages the oil, permanently. 

Another reason is the low boiling point of a solvent like Seafoam. As it heats up it dissolves the sludge, yes, but as it evaporates it re-deposits the sludge evenly inside of the engine, from areas where it was doing no harm with little oil flow, to other areas of the engine which may be more critical. You want do run it at idle for 10 minutes, no load on the engine, and drain it out while the sludge is still dissolved.


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## AudiJunkie (Jun 19, 2009)

Likely, the little sludge you found was nbd, and any flushing is optional. Look up my posts on "piston soak" if you want to do some service to your engine. After soaking the pistons, then you do a "Seafoam (intake) Cleaning", but can use other solvents like Gumout if you don't spray your MAF. afaik, Berryman's B-12 is a little better than Seafoam and much cheaper.

Let me know if you have any specific questions.


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## AudiJunkie (Jun 19, 2009)

Solvents will also scour the anti-wear AW layer on the metals that the oil additive package(s) left behind. No problem, as the new oil will lay down it's own layer, but another reason not to drive with it in the old oil and keep the whole flushing process to a minimum.

If you want to try some Auto-Rx.com, that fine...a better way to spend money than $10 bottles of SF. 

Many new oils advertize a degree of sludge cleaning, the Pennzoil products come to mind.


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## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

Thanks alot, yes the sludge I found was small so im not too worried about it. I'll proble just look into getting sludge cleaning oils.


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

Do the sea foam as directed. You'll read "do before oil change" since it thins out oil, do it before the oil change, then change out your oil


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## AudiJunkie (Jun 19, 2009)

What's in Seafoam anyway, acetone? 

You think that's good for your seals and bearing babbit?  

Whatever...


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*sludge*

anyone who's interested can get a long cotton swab and run it around in their oil pan next time they change the earl. if it comes back oil soaked but not sludged you'll be fine.


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## stark9dubber (Mar 27, 2007)

seafoam = junk! use BG products. theyre pricey, but they rock.


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## AudiJunkie (Jun 19, 2009)

"petroleum distillates", same stuff. :facepalm:

I love how companies like B&G have some secret ingredient that the major oil formulators~forgot~, like harsh solvents or extra zink.


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

The best place to look is the MSDS: http://www.seafoamsales.com/component/option,com_rokdownloads/Itemid,17/view,folder/

Pale oil, naphtha and IPA (isopropyl alcohol). You decide if putting this is your engine is worth it.


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## marine24 (Jan 19, 2008)

AudiJunkie said:


> It's a fine solvent for intakes and such, but way too harsh for inside an engine. edit-engine SUMP
> 
> The main problem I have with it is seal compatibility. As it is not tested for such, and it will melt them. All oils are tested for seal compatibility, Seafoam is not. If you want a solvent flush, use something less harsh, Kero, Diesel or best of all BioDiesel.


If you read the directions on the seafoam bottle you'll be just fine. I have used it multiple times in my VR6 with no issues. You put it in, idle the car for about 10 minutes then shut it off and change the oil and filter. You can even use it in your fuel system to clean it out; again I know this from experience. It's not going to hurt the seals. DO NOT LEAVE IT IN THE OIL FOR A LONG PERIOD OF TIME; i.e. drive with it in. Seeing as it's been around for a couple of decades I think someone would have noticed by now if it was going to do some damage to seals.


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## FaithInMkIII2.0 (Jul 10, 2008)

I put a few oz of SF in my gf's 350,000 mile plus volvo 850 which had a loud lifter...I left it in the oil, haven't noticed any ill affects yet, and the noisy lifter is quiet, car runs great for its age..I think the volatile solvency is evaporated/burned by the pcv system..like I said no ill affects noticeable, just a much quieter valve train..SF seemed a lot easier than finding and replacing the one loud lifter bucket..and I have more time to devote to my project!


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## AudiJunkie (Jun 19, 2009)

AudiJunkie said:


> I love how companies like B&G have some secret ingredient that the major oil formulators~forgot~, like harsh solvents or extra zink.


 :thumbup:


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## lemansvw (Jan 21, 2009)

Love how people thumbs up their own comments. Made me laugh my ass off


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## AudiJunkie (Jun 19, 2009)

lemansvw said:


> Love how people thumbs up their own comments. Made me laugh my ass off


 :thumbdown:

I was reiterating my point. 

You know what makes me laugh, when someone comes to a technical forum to share their random thoughts. :facepalm:


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*he's alright*



lemansvw said:


> Love how people thumbs up their own comments. Made me laugh my ass off


it's the rest of us:laugh:


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## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

I love when random conversations break out of nowhere.
Anywho, I didn't choose to add Seafoam. After changing my oil the old oil came out clean.
MKIV, 185,000 and still going.


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*and it will go lots longer*



VWstung said:


> I love when random conversations break out of nowhere.
> Anywho, I didn't choose to add Seafoam. After changing my oil the old oil came out clean.
> MKIV, 185,000 and still going.


regular oil and filter changes are the key. you really should not need adatives in either the oil or fuel.


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## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

gmikel said:


> regular oil and filter changes are the key. you really should not need adatives in either the oil or fuel.


Yes, I keep everything up to date and clean. A new fuel filter is next, I doubt the previous owner ever replaced it.


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*fuel filter*



VWstung said:


> Yes, I keep everything up to date and clean. A new fuel filter is next, I doubt the previous owner ever replaced it.


the scary part with fuel filters is when they plug you come to a halt, no warning!


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## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

gmikel said:


> the scary part with fuel filters is when they plug you come to a halt, no warning!


You mean when they get clogged with gunk or something?


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*yup*



VWstung said:


> You mean when they get clogged with gunk or something?


its not so bad anymore since the epa made the stations put in new tanks, if you buy off brands it's a problem sometimes.


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## rdezsofi (Sep 21, 2010)

SeaFoam....I use it yearly, _on my 150hp 2 stroke outboard boat motor_.....not for automotive maintenance purposes. 2 strokes gets a lot of carbon buildup and the stuff works fantastic, but we're talking about a 2 stroke boat engine with no oil sump or oil pump system. I have used it in automotive engines that are still running right before I tear them down to rebuild.....simply because it cleans so well and a new oil pump will go in anyway. One thing to follow, if you must use this on your car, is to drop the oil pan afterwards. _You will not get all the crap out of the pan by simply draining._ I would say replace the oil pump as well. The pick up screen _will be partially plugged _by debris and who knows how much went through the gears.


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## dval372 (Mar 20, 2010)

as long as you use it as directed, you should be fine

ive used it in my 1.8t's and no problems whatsoever


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## Jon718 (Aug 14, 2007)

i just put some (about 15% of the bottle) into my engine today for my ride to work. Will a 65 miles roundtrip damage the engine assuming i change out the oil tomorrow?


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## marine24 (Jan 19, 2008)

*seafoam*

your not supposed to drive with it in your oil due to the fact that it breaks down the viscosity of the oil, making not coat as well. It would probably depend on how strenuous the drive is (uphill, highway, fast acceleration) and the condition of your engine.


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## Jon718 (Aug 14, 2007)

marine24 said:


> your not supposed to drive with it in your oil due to the fact that it breaks down the viscosity of the oil, making not coat as well. It would probably depend on how strenuous the drive is (uphill, highway, fast acceleration) and the condition of your engine.


Drove it granny style, i.e. no shifts beyond 3k rpm and no uphills, all driven highway at 60 mph


Just checked their website:

"As a pre service cleaner for old oil residue, sticky rings or valve train noise, pour 1 ½ ounces of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the engine oil crankcase for EACH quart of oil capacity, including filter. Drive a MINIMUM of 30 minutes/miles, MAXIMUM 100 miles, and then do your oil change service – Lube, Oil & Filter (LOF). This begins the process of safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. This also makes your old oil dirtier, quickly, so a LOF service is necessary when the oil gets dirty. Great for Turbocharged & Supercharged applications where oils deteriorate so quickly due to heat, and leave those residues that NEED CLEANING."


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## dr.chop (Apr 8, 2009)

I used it in my MKIII Jetta GLX that had 176k on it...Followed the instructions, ran a portion through the tank, a portion in the crankcase (about 100mi of driving), and the remainder through the intake as directed and it worked like a charm. Can't say the engine had horrible gunk buildup, but it cleaned out the top end, made the throttle response smoother, and had NO ILL effects on the seals...At 176k, if they were gonna fail and Seafoam is so bad, they would have been shot...Never had a single leak, not one problem, and nothing but positive results. Just follow the can and you'll be fine. It's not some magic snake oil or crap like that, it just works and has been on the shelves at shops for years. Besides, 4-5 oz in your crankcase of how much? a gallon + isn't going to thin out your oil that much, isn't going to be so caustic it will instantly destroy seals, and certainly won't do much other than clean like it's supposed to. You don't add the full can to your oil, bottom line.


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## rdezsofi (Sep 21, 2010)

Even used correctly for cleaning carbon and/or sludge/gunk....I would reiterate that you need to take 10 minutes and drop the oil pan. I guarantee you will not simply drain the crud all out by just draining the oil. The stuff works good. I use it always right before an engine rebuild in an engine thats still running. 96.3% of the time, the oil pick up screen is 60% full of crap from the flush. At least pull your pan and take a look. You'll get to see how clean the engine internals are, you can inspect the pick up tube screen and clean/replace it, and you'll spend a few minutes wiping a layer of sludge off the inside of the oil pan.


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