# Clutch Install DIY



## mk1_tt (Dec 7, 2008)

I cant seem to find any DIY clutch installs for the 225 Quattro. Has anyone here ever attempted to do a clutch job on a quattro?

My clutch starting slipping bad this week and its time for a new one. The tt just hit 96k.
Does anyone have a Bentley Manual that they scan and upload the diy?


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

I'm in the same boat, here is a very good one I just found: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-Removal-Clutch-Replacement-diy-Quick-Version Only difference for the TTq is also disconnecting the driveshaft from the transfer box


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## A4 1.8 Turbo (Feb 28, 2005)

mk1_tt said:


> The tt just hit 96k.


is your car chipped or big turbo?


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## isaacblaylock (Feb 22, 2009)

its not too bad, get an extra set of hands, a few beers, and some patience and you'll be fine


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## mk1_tt (Dec 7, 2008)

A4 1.8 Turbo said:


> is your car chipped or big turbo?


my car is chipped, it was holding fine until just one day it started slipping. after that it never held any gear again under wot.


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## mk1_tt (Dec 7, 2008)

isaacblaylock said:


> its not too bad, get an extra set of hands, a few beers, and some patience and you'll be fine


does the subframe have to come down?

I assume yes but im not sure


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## mk1_tt (Dec 7, 2008)

l88m22vette said:


> I'm in the same boat, here is a very good one I just found: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-Removal-Clutch-Replacement-diy-Quick-Version Only difference for the TTq is also disconnecting the driveshaft from the transfer box


Ya i saw that one but i was told the quattro's are different and require a lot more work.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

I've done my clutch twice and a few friend's cars now - it's really not that bad compared to a FWD there's just a few tricks.

When you drop the subframe avoid getting an alignment by keeping the ball joints attached to the control arms. To do this remove the 19mm top nuts and bang the hub with some pressure on the control arm and the ball joint will drop right out. Remove the whole subframe- don't just pull it back, it will make your life so much easier and be sure to buy four new subframe bolts. While it's off the car consider buying a front sway bar if you have $200 sitting around. There's a trick to getting that on the car too...

Drop the trans just as you would any other trans. Support the motor, remove the motor mount and bracket from the trans and it slides right out. The trick comes in when putting it back in the car. Due to the haldex there is limited space. If you look at the trans from the top you will notice there's a space, an outcove right between the bellhousing and the haldex unit. You NEED to literally slide the flywheel through this space when reinstalling. So you essentially line the transmission up then go straight up scratching the pressure plate with the bellhousing. After they are even you can get the flywheel teeth into the bellhousing, have a friend spin the crank and you push the trans on- get a top bolt in and your good to go.

Do a slave cylinder while your in there. Just did an R32 clutch job monday into tuesday on my friend's car and he didn't do a slave- now he needs to. Thank god he has a lift and all the right tools though. Maybe we will snap some photos when we do it next week again.

The front sway bar trick is ONLY necessary for aftermarket sway bars. I've only used H&R bars so I'm not sure if this is applicable to Neuspeed or hotchkiss but I'd assume any larger bar would cause this issue. On the drivers side the power steering rack mount that bolts to the subframe, the front half of that mount slides under the stock front sway bar perfectly- due to the larger diameter bar you cannot slide it under there. What I do is reattach the 19mm ball joint bolts and let the subframe kind of hang. Use a jack under the subframe so you can adjust it without laying down, don't attach any other bolts yet. Get your two 13mm long power steering rack bolts and a 13mm wrench & ratchet setup. You need to remove the sway bar bracket on the drivers side. Pick the sway bar up. Slide the power steering rack into place and get your front bolt in. Now get a pair of very skinny/thin needle nose vice grips and clamp the sway bar bracket to the subframe. Get your 13mm sway bar bracket back in there and be careful not to strip it out. Now you can attach all the steering rack bolts normally. 

Oh and you need the car pretty high in the air and stable. I use these 6-ton SUV jackstands from pepboys. They go probably 6-8" higher than regular stands and are beefy. I feel very safe with the car on them.

If I had to rate this job in beer and if you drink like I do then you're going to need a lot of beer. It's time consuming and a little frustrating but not bad. By the book it's a 12 hours of labor job so consider it a whole weekend and make sure you have all the parts. Also I can't seem to find a clutch alignment tool for our cars so I just use a 1/2" ratchet extension and it's never failed me.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Please PM me the PDF Doug, and post any more info/pics from the slave swap, I was planning that along with a SS clutch line and new steering rack for the hell of it :thumbup: Thanks dood, hopefully I'll be able to post a good thread up during the holidays (fingers crossed)


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## mk1_tt (Dec 7, 2008)

Can you send me the pdf as well. I now have no choice but to do this this week, i drove to long with a slipping clutch and the clutch over heated and something gave out inside, it must be in pieces now


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

just send me an email so I remember tonight: [email protected]


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> If you look at the trans from the top you will notice there's a space, an outcove right between the bellhousing and the haldex unit. You NEED to literally slide the flywheel through this space when reinstalling. So you essentially line the transmission up then go straight up scratching the pressure plate with the bellhousing.


Old post bump. So this indicates to me you can remove the transmission without seperating the bevel box/angle drive from the transmission case? I've only removed whole motors/trans combo from the TT and then seperated the transmission with it out of the car. I'm thinking of putting my 225 6 speed in my 180Q, and putting FWD 02M gears in the 5 speed 02M housing to go back in the 225.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> Old post bump. So this indicates to me you can remove the transmission without seperating the bevel box/angle drive from the transmission case? I've only removed whole motors/trans combo from the TT and then seperated the transmission with it out of the car. I'm thinking of putting my 225 6 speed in my 180Q, and putting FWD 02M gears in the 5 speed 02M housing to go back in the 225.


Yes you can drop the trans complete with bevel box/angle drive or leave it bolted into the car. I've done both but find keeping it attached the easiest due to lack of mess.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Less mess = good. :beer:


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