# IS20 turbo/tune vs Stage 1 only + stock turbo (IS12) and overall wear/tear



## Sprocket (Jul 25, 1999)

I have an 2018 AT SE and have been thinking about getting one of the above tunes. There's obviously a major cost consideration upfront, but is the Stage 1 (91 Octane) adding more wear/tear to the stock turbo where it will wear out more quickly vs adding an IS20 which seems more geared towards higher output, but also an increased stress on the 1.8T internals? Both are adding some additional stress and I know that it can handle some additional load, but am I looking at a lot of $$$ down the road in terms of replacement bits adding the IS20 (plugs, coilpacks, etc.)? I've read over many of the threads, but don't want to wear the motor out prematurely, and may just stay stock in the end. It's difficult w/ an APR tuner just down the road!

Also, what of valve float? I know there are aftermarket valve springs - anyone install these or having any issues with this after tuning?

Probably lots of folks on the fence about tuning and would like some extra juice, but don't want to deal with the hassle of broken bits, CELs, etc. on their DD. There may be a chance I'm overthinking it as well.


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## ZuMBLe (Feb 2, 2012)

If you have a manual, the IS20 tune will make your clutch slip if you romp on it a few times. Turbo upgrades also open up a can of worms which means more $$$. Ask me how I know.

APR Stage 1 91 Octane and the car will feel great and be worry free. Just do it. It's more than enough power for spirited driving and normal driving. It's not enough power that you will want to be fast and furious all the time. 





Sprocket said:


> I have an 2018 AT SE and have been thinking about getting one of the above tunes. There's obviously a major cost consideration upfront, but is the Stage 1 (91 Octane) adding more wear/tear to the stock turbo where it will wear out more quickly vs adding an IS20 which seems more geared towards higher output, but also an increased stress on the 1.8T internals? Both are adding some additional stress and I know that it can handle some additional load, but am I looking at a lot of $$$ down the road in terms of replacement bits adding the IS20 (plugs, coilpacks, etc.)? I've read over many of the threads, but don't want to wear the motor out prematurely, and may just stay stock in the end. It's difficult w/ an APR tuner just down the road!
> 
> Also, what of valve float? I know there are aftermarket valve springs - anyone install these or having any issues with this after tuning?
> 
> Probably lots of folks on the fence about tuning and would like some extra juice, but don't want to deal with the hassle of broken bits, CELs, etc. on their DD. There may be a chance I'm overthinking it as well.


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## Sprocket (Jul 25, 1999)

ZuMBLe said:


> If you have a manual, the IS20 tune will make your clutch slip if you romp on it a few times. Turbo upgrades also open up a can of worms which means more $$$. Ask me how I know.
> 
> APR Stage 1 91 Octane and the car will feel great and be worry free. Just do it. It's more than enough power for spirited driving and normal driving. It's not enough power that you will want to be fast and furious all the time.


Good advice - thanks! I started adding up initial parts cost and I'd be into it several thousand (all new parts - intercooler, turbo, tune, labor...). I'm assuming first hand failure, er, experience. :what: I do have a DSG (have owned both, but...wife and hills/wife).


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## ZuMBLe (Feb 2, 2012)

Sprocket said:


> Good advice - thanks! I started adding up initial parts cost and I'd be into it several thousand (all new parts - intercooler, turbo, tune, labor...). I'm assuming first hand failure, er, experience. :what: I do have a DSG (have owned both, but...wife and hills/wife).


DSG will help in the $$$ Dept, but you'll likely want a DSG tune after a turbo upgrade anyway. Then you'll want a IC, then little turbo bits, better engine management, yada yada. I can honestly say I was probably a happier person before I opened the can of worms. Now I'm driving and watching my JB4 display, worrying about changing oil and plugs more, blah blah. 

I love tinkering with stuff and learning though.


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## Face76 (Sep 30, 2014)

No worries about valve float with an IS20 or even IS38. 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


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## Sprocket (Jul 25, 1999)

ZuMBLe said:


> DSG will help in the $$$ Dept, but you'll likely want a DSG tune after a turbo upgrade anyway. Then you'll want a IC, then little turbo bits, better engine management, yada yada. I can honestly say I was probably a happier person before I opened the can of worms. Now I'm driving and watching my JB4 display, worrying about changing oil and plugs more, blah blah.
> 
> I love tinkering with stuff and learning though.


I'm in the same boat. Love the idea of tinkering, and improving factory specs (oem+ mindset), but don't love the cost of tinkering unless it's ft job or you have the time/tools at your disposal to fix said tinkering. It was two weeks after our tune on the Tig and it blew a coilpack and plugs were on their last leg anyways, so replaced all four, but paying to tow it and having it strand the better half was not my idea of joy. I will say having driven her car a few times, I was impressed with the stg 1 on it (not as quick/crisp shifting w/o dsg, but the 2.0T has some guts).


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## Sprocket (Jul 25, 1999)

Face76 said:


> No worries about valve float with an IS20 or even IS38.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


Good to hear as I think GTIs/Rs have better stock valve springs (may also be part of the 2.0T vs. 1.8T).


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## td1agon (Jan 4, 2019)

I am running is38 APR Stage 2 with APR TCU tune on my Alltrack and my car is proving to be very reliable, and drives great. If I put the DSG in normal Drive mode I can putz around town and just drive the car like normal. If I put the car in sport or manual mode I can drive like a mad man if I want to. Granted going the turbo route is expensive... BUT if you do it and do it right it is very worth it, and very reliable. A lot of people get themselves in trouble by taking their cars to tuners and messing with the OTS APR tune to try and squeeze out more boost or more timing. It is tempting.. but does affect the reliability. Keep in mind that both the is20 and is38 turbos are factory turbos. They are chosen to perform with reliability and daily driving in mind.

If you go is20 you are going to need a downpipe to run the proper tune... an upgraded intercooler is not necessarily required, it will help, but not required for the car to run properly.

If you are concerned about cost but want a fun car to drive just do the tune on the stock is12 and be done with it... I had the 91 octane APR tune on my stock is12 before I went is38 and to be honest... it was just okay. Faster yes, but it left a lot to be desired.


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## ZuMBLe (Feb 2, 2012)

I really don't think a DP is needed for a daily driver. Totally unneeded headache if you're not drag racing the car or tracking it. 





td1agon said:


> I am running is38 APR Stage 2 with APR TCU tune on my Alltrack and my car is proving to be very reliable, and drives great. If I put the DSG in normal Drive mode I can putz around town and just drive the car like normal. If I put the car in sport or manual mode I can drive like a mad man if I want to. Granted going the turbo route is expensive... BUT if you do it and do it right it is very worth it, and very reliable. A lot of people get themselves in trouble by taking their cars to tuners and messing with the OTS APR tune to try and squeeze out more boost or more timing. It is tempting.. but does affect the reliability. Keep in mind that both the is20 and is38 turbos are factory turbos. They are chosen to perform with reliability and daily driving in mind.
> 
> If you go is20 you are going to need a downpipe to run the proper tune... an upgraded intercooler is not necessarily required, it will help, but not required for the car to run properly.
> 
> If you are concerned about cost but want a fun car to drive just do the tune on the stock is12 and be done with it... I had the 91 octane APR tune on my stock is12 before I went is38 and to be honest... it was just okay. Faster yes, but it left a lot to be desired.


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## Sprocket (Jul 25, 1999)

ZuMBLe said:


> I really don't think a DP is needed for a daily driver. Totally unneeded headache if you're not drag racing the car or tracking it.


Thank you both for the input/experiences. This is what my local tuner said as well (yes on intercooler for IS20, dp not required on IS12/20 tune/upgrade - IS38 opens up several other variables/options). Headaches not needed on a DD. Some would also say to leave it completely alone, but that's no fun.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Unitronic Stage 1+ ECU and Stage 1 TCU on stock IS12 is a blast for a DD. APR has an IS20 tune for an otherwise stock 1.8 without DP or IC..that's what I would do if I was upgrading (wish Unitronic did).

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## Sprocket (Jul 25, 1999)

KarstGeo said:


> Unitronic Stage 1+ ECU and Stage 1 TCU on stock IS12 is a blast for a DD. APR has an IS20 tune for an otherwise stock 1.8 without DP or IC..that's what I would do if I was upgrading (wish Unitronic did).
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Would a TCU tune be worth it if you shift it manually (I'm almost never in D or S mode)? What is the biggest noticeable effect from it?


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## Jack Watts (Jul 19, 2015)

Sprocket said:


> Would a TCU tune be worth it if you shift it manually (I'm almost never in D or S mode)? What is the biggest noticeable effect from it?


No, if you're in manual mode most of the time, it's not worth it. Supposedly it increased clamping pressure, but even w/an IS20 and tune you're not going to be experiencing slip. I have the DSG tune on my GTI and manual mode feels the same. Some DSG tunes deactivate the kickdown switch, but this switch seems pretty easy to avoid. I love the DSG tune, but I almost never drive in manual mode. 

As far as ECU tunes, I started off with the APR 87 octane tune on my Alltrack, since I'm on the stock clutch. My thinking was that I'd go IS20 after upgrading the clutch, but truth is the APR 87 octane tune is enough. It feels almost identical to the stock GTI, which is plenty for me. In terms of long-term reliability, it's anyone's guess--but I think the stock internals will be fine. If the turbo does go, then it would just be a reason to go IS20.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Sprocket said:


> Would a TCU tune be worth it if you shift it manually (I'm almost never in D or S mode)? What is the biggest noticeable effect from it?


Probably not. It makes D more livable i.e. not up shifting to 6th at 30 mph  S is similar to me vs. stock. Launch RPM up a bit over stock.

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## Sprocket (Jul 25, 1999)

Thanks guys. Having driven manuals for so long, it just feels normal to control the shift points myself..and yes, it wants to get to 6th asap...annoying.

The parts are starting to trickle in...getting excited for the upgrades. I will do the Stg. 1/91 octane tune. Also figure like you, that any part that breaks or wears out, will be replaced with a better performing part.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Sprocket said:


> Thanks guys. Having driven manuals for so long, it just feels normal to control the shift points myself..and yes, it wants to get to 6th asap...annoying.
> 
> The parts are starting to trickle in...getting excited for the upgrades. I will do the Stg. 1/91 octane tune. Also figure like you, that any part that breaks or wears out, will be replaced with a better performing part.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Yes, turbo goes? IS20! But really, for normal use and not WOT between each stop light all day every day, you aren't going to wear anything out any faster on a Stage 1 tune is my take-away.


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## dardano (Mar 9, 2020)

Have an Alltrack (2019) and I think of going the Uni Stage1 (ECU+TCU) route.
I still have to convince myself of pro/cons of fun vs warranty void 

I don't think I will go further than Stage1 as it's a DD.


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## iceninejim (Mar 23, 2015)

I went with the APR Plus tune for my '18 Alltrack 6MT at 10k miles. Just couldn't bring myself to waiting until 6 years 72k miles. Also wanted to maintain some level of warranty coverage for the powertrain. Such an awesome upgrade, I'm a big believer in getting a tune as soon as one is able to determine that they don't have a lemon. Also very excited to get an is20, but will be more patient with that and wait until the warranty is out!

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## dardano (Mar 9, 2020)

Finally went Uni Stage1, 15k km and now thinking of is20.
I live in an area where the highest octane I can get is 91. would a Unitronic stage2 is20 made for 93 be harmfull to my engine if I fill it up with Shell VPower 91 octane ?

Or maybe should I switch to APR is20 on 91 octane.But I lose money doing so.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

dardano said:


> Finally went Uni Stage1+, 15k km and now thinking of is20.
> I live in an area where the highest octane I can get is 91. would a Unitronic stage2 is20 made for 93 be harmfull to my engine if I fill it up with Shell VPower 91 octane ?
> 
> Or maybe should I switch to APR is20 on 91 octane.But I lose money doing so.


Ask Unitronic - seriously, they did the tune and can give you that guidance better than anyone here.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk


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## JazzFitnessFoodie (May 20, 2021)

dardano said:


> Have an Alltrack (2019) and I think of going the Uni Stage1 (ECU+TCU) route.
> I still have to convince myself of pro/cons of fun vs warranty void
> 
> I don't think I will go further than Stage1 as it's a DD.


I have a 2016 Golf TSI (with the same engine I think...) and did the Unitronic Stage 1+ and it was a pretty insane upgrade for the cost. I was also at 50k miles and didn’t really care about voiding the warranty. You really can’t get anything better for your money!


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