# MkIV R32 front brakes on GTI w/Bilstein - brake hose hookup - DIY



## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

edit: for a 100% plug and play install, order brake hose part number 10.611.1950MTK from Autotech for $27 each.
With OEM R32 brake hoses:
I thought the MkIV R32 front brakes would be plug and play on a MkIV GTI. Hardly! I ran into the following issues:
# OEM GTI hard-line-to OEM R32 flex-hose interface does not secure with OEM wheel-well clip
# OEM R32 hose is 5" longer than GTI hose - how to route that extra hose?
# OEM R32 hose has provision to clip onto the strut, but GTI/Bilstein strut does not have the proper sized clip to accept it.
# OEM GTI strut upper clips for ABS/brake pad wear sensor grommets interfere with the brake hose when turning the wheel

I solved most of the issues by bending the clips on my Bilsteins. See the following pics:

How to secure this?
This is not secure - its just resting there:
What the hell do I do with this? (part number 191 611 715) It doesn't secure anything:
OEM R32 hose is too thick to fit - must bend the clip on the strut:
That worked, but added a big zip-tie just in case:
Also bent the upper clips on the Bilsteins out of the way:
See how close that hose gets to the strut?








Safe?


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## Turbozo (Nov 17, 2005)

Use 2 zip ties in an X formation for the hardline. I have used that for 2 years now, no issues. 
For the strut, you need to allow for _some_ movement or your zips will snap. 
I am not using the R32 system, but encountered similar challenges with my BBK install.


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## turbogti03 (Jul 20, 2005)

*Re: (Turbozo)*

I did the same set up on my GTI a couple of moths ago, ran into the same problems. First the clip on the fender you have to try and close it as much as possible with pliers that how i did it and its fits perfectly and holds it tight. Second The strut im not completely sure about because i have PSS9's so they fit in perfectly with no need to mode the clips. I would try to bend them open to route the extra line their so it doesn't get in the way. 
If you need i can got take a picture of my set up in the front for you.


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: (cstjetta)*

Ok guys, I got the skinny on Autotech's R32 kit. They actually sell a specific brake hose for the R32 upgrade which is plug and play to the R32 caliper and the GTI clip on the wheel-well. Instead of being 25" long like the OEM R32 hose, it is 19" long like the GTI hose. As soon as I get the go-ahead from Autotech, I'll post pricing and part numbers here.


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## turbogti03 (Jul 20, 2005)

*Re: (phatvw)*

okay cool i just bout there steel braided lines and they fit perfectly. Why not just do that?


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: (turbogti03)*

Autotech has 2 different steel hoses: one that replicates the OEM R32 hose (25") and one that replicates the GTI hose (19") but has the proper fitting for the R32 caliper.

_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
The 191 clips that you show on the thread do not come with either R32 brake line kit we sell, but they will work with the correct line I am about to describe to you. The length of the front lines that come in our brake conversion kit are actually 19.5" long, and are a male to female connection that are tabbed for that clip. The part number for those particular lines are 10.611.1950MTK, and are $27.00 each; they do not feature the grommet captured on the line to attach to the strut because as you mentioned, there is a difference between the R32 and non- R32 struts and the brackets they have to hold the lines. 

The lines included in the conversion kit do feature a different, smaller female end that leads to the hard line, which allows you to mount that 191 clip as you show in your second picture on the thread. The clip should fit this new bracket/line like a glove with the line specifically for the conversion. Please feel free to call me if you have any further questions! We have these lines in stock if you wanted to source them out for your brake conversion kit. 
...
These lines are actually a stainless braided line with billet ends and Teflon inner hose, but they do not have a clear vinyl covering. They are also not DOT-approved, but we have been selling these lines for many years now and have had no complaints about their durability. Feel free to post up the part number of the lines, the price of each, and if they have any questions to give me a ring! 

As mentioned, the lines are 10.611.1950MTK, $27.00 each. Clips like you mentioned are 191.611.715, we don't really have them for sale here, but can be purchased at any VW dealer (probably $1.50 or $2.00 each, tops). These hoses we have should kill at least two of your birds with one stone! 





_Modified by phatvw at 11:39 AM 1-26-2007_


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## Ryan @ Autotech (May 12, 2005)

*Re: (phatvw)*

Thanks for the good word Phatvw! Not to be a thread-jacker but here is a little supplemental information on this topic. 
We found this out for ourselves a number of years back upon fitting these R32 brakes on a non-R32 vehicle, so if you want to keep installation issues to a minimum, those 'R32 conversion' brake lines are a trouble-free way to adapt the kit correctly to your car. 
As a bonus, you get the added performance benefit of a stainless braided brake line (with billet ends which won't rust!) that won't expand and create air bubbles in the line under high heat or repeated heavy braking conditions.








Call us up with any questions or if you want to order the lines mentioned above! Check my signature for contact information.










_Modified by Ryan @ Autotech at 4:12 PM 1-26-2007_


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## traffic (Sep 23, 2003)

*Re: (Ryan @ Autotech)*

Dan,
Sounds like this kit is the way to go. The SS lines will be good for modulation. Especially since you've been beating on your OEM rubber lines, it's probably time to change hoses anyway!!
--Paul


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: (traffic)*

The Autotech brake hoses worked great. My only concerns with them are:
No outer vinyl wrapping like the goodridge "DOT-approved" hoses: solution: 3/4" heat-shrink tubing from local electronics supply shop








At full steering lock, the caliper hose end comes VERY close and just grazes the plastic front-swaybar end-link. I think this is why the OEM R32 brake line has a bend on the caliper end. Should not be a problem unless you do donuts at full-steering lock for an hour.
The install is plug and play exactly as described.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 



_Modified by phatvw at 5:47 PM 2-10-2007_


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## Baxy (Dec 18, 2008)

*Re: (phatvw)*

Hi, im having problems with r32 front brake set up i have fitted the kit to my Gti anniversary used the goodridge hoses first then changed to genuine vw ones.... im gettin loads of winding noises when driving and gets louded when braking only started after fitting brakes car was mint before..... the discs are handed and are on the right way any ideas guys?


_Modified by Baxy at 11:37 AM 12-20-2008_


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

*Re: (phatvw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *phatvw* »_The Autotech brake hoses worked great. My only concerns with them are:
No outer vinyl wrapping like the goodridge "DOT-approved" hoses: solution: 3/4" heat-shrink tubing from local electronics supply shop








At full steering lock, the caliper hose end comes VERY close and just grazes the plastic front-swaybar end-link. I think this is why the OEM R32 brake line has a bend on the caliper end. Should not be a problem unless you do donuts at full-steering lock for an hour.
The install is plug and play exactly as described.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
_Modified by phatvw at 5:47 PM 2-10-2007_

In your position just readily check your hoses for indications of contact wear. As OEM designs we go through great great lengths to insure that there is not contact in any suspension contions. This includes suspenion bump, over bump, rebound, over rebound, and such in ALL steering lock-to-lock instances.
As you check your vehicle on jack stands the suspension is in a static rebound condition, so steering lock-to-lock is really the only suspension condition you are checking. 1G lock-to-lock would be the best condition to check (vehicle sitting statically on all 4 tires). Usually to check all these conditions the springs need to be removed from the vehicle, more than what a typical person would want to remove to check hose clearances.


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