# SAI Delete DIY Guide Almost complete



## 2003gtivr62.8liter (Sep 1, 2009)

Disclaimer: I am not a ase certified technician and do not take any responsibility if things don't go right. 

Ok here is some of it. I bought the block off plate from INEngineering. You can probably do this without taking off the bumper beam & lock carrier, but I did just because. 

First I located the SAI pump motor which is right behind the radiator. After locating that I then traced all the lines/hoses and found out where they all went. 

Second I took out the Bracket holding pump motor. It has 2 bolts in the oil pan and 1 bolt in the cylinder block. They are right under the oil filter housing. You will have to disconnect the Harness connector on the pump. 

Disconnect half of the pressure hose on the side of the engine so you have less hose to remove from the bottom. These hoses are disconnected by pushing in and pulling. Remove pump from the bottom thru and around radiator hoses. 

Next, take out your intake tubing to gain better access to the Combi-valve. It is kind of a pain in the ass but not to bad. 

Now you can gain access to the Combi-valve you have a radiator hose that needs to be disconnected. It might be a pain, but keep at it and take your time to take it off as you will still need it. There are 3 bolts one is on top, one is on bottom and the other is in the middle of the radiator hose and the Fitting Flange on the Combi-Valve. The one in the middle was the real only pain. 

You will have to disconnect the ground wire and relocate it. I relocated mine right on top of the Valve cover. (hopefully that works) (Any ideas on where else it could be moved to are welcome). 

Install the block off plate and the hose. 

The only thing that I have left to do is the vaccum plug leading into the SAI Solenoid Valve(N112). Has anyone done this before? Can I just delete that whole solenoid valve or just plug it? 









Where the bracket is located. 









Combi-valve. 









SAI Pump motor. You can disconnect the hose in the middle to make removal easier. 









Side view of the lines afterwards. 









What it looks like with the combi-valve. 









Better pic of Block off Plate with hose connected. 









SAI Solenoid Valve on the left. Can I just take that compeletly off or just plug that hole?


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## madonion (May 1, 2007)

Remove the whole plastic box with both solenoid under the intake. Cut the 2 connectors and put 300omhs 10W resistors instead. Make sure you don't cut the connector too short so you can weld them back if you need to. Keep everything in a box in case you need to reinstall everything. Once the plastic box and the solenoids have been removed you'll have to figure out the vacuum lines but this part is quite easy, make sure you reconnect the FPR vacuum line and that there's no vacuum leaks anywhere.


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## 2003gtivr62.8liter (Sep 1, 2009)

Sounds good. Man I hate to mess with electrical ****


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## 2003gtivr62.8liter (Sep 1, 2009)

So what you are saying is to completely remove these solenoids







correct? 

Another question is since I already have the Unitronic Stage 2 will I still throw a CEL?


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## madonion (May 1, 2007)

Yes these and the black plastic box. Take a look at the 1.8T sai delete DIY it's really similar. Resistors "should" prevent from trowing codes. But I can't guarantee it will. In my case, I get N112 circuit open error code I need to check if something as gone wrong with the connection to the resistor. 

You could remove the black plastic box and vacuum lines and leave the solenoids connected and tuck them somewhere.


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## 2003gtivr62.8liter (Sep 1, 2009)

Now I was looking in the Bentley and there is a relay for the sai. Should I get rid of that also? Considering I am taking I out.


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## madonion (May 1, 2007)

Personally I wouldn't remove the relay, but you could do it if you make sure it's not used for anything else than the pump. Just make sure you find a way to insulate the SAI pump connector. I used a big piece of eat shrink with glue in it.


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## anthony3vdublove (Sep 14, 2010)

You can remove the SAI relay. Chip tuning along with resistoring is need to keep the CEL off and fuel trims adapting.


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## jaso028 (Aug 12, 2007)

Nice!! 
glad to see someone making a nice DIY on this.. 

removing that SAI frees up some nice space...


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## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

The other solenoid is for your intake changeover valve, don't remove that one.


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## jaso028 (Aug 12, 2007)

dont some tunes allow you not to use the solenoids?


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## 2003gtivr62.8liter (Sep 1, 2009)

^. That's what I thought. Could have sworn unitronic does it with the stage 2 software.


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## jaso028 (Aug 12, 2007)

Meant to say resistors, but I think you knew what I meant.. lol 
I remeber something with the UM tune I have saying it eliminates the SAI, but I always here it run. So I dont think it did..


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## madonion (May 1, 2007)

GRN6IX said:


> The other solenoid is for your intake changeover valve, don't remove that one.


 Oops... good thing you mentioned this. I deleted mine thinking it wasn't used. I wonder how the change over was acting while it was plugged directly on a vacuum line with no solenoid, no check valve. I will reinstall it tonight.


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## 2003gtivr62.8liter (Sep 1, 2009)

So it sounds like I should not delete the IMT just relocate it


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## jaso028 (Aug 12, 2007)

so did you end up putting the resistors on yet? if so you have pics of that and how that works?


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## 2003gtivr62.8liter (Sep 1, 2009)

No not yet. I have been busy with work and school. Hope to get back at it tomorrow.


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## jaso028 (Aug 12, 2007)

are you getting a CEL without them????


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## 2003gtivr62.8liter (Sep 1, 2009)

Don't know haven't had a chance to do anything with the car


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## jaso028 (Aug 12, 2007)

Oh lol


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## madonion (May 1, 2007)

Anyone else as red and brown wires going to the n112 solenoid ? Diagrams show it should be blue/yellow, brown/yellow.


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## 2003gtivr62.8liter (Sep 1, 2009)

Ok so I have called every place I can think of except the VW dealer. Where can I get the 330 ohm resistors from? Right now I am thinking of just disconnecting it and just tucking it somewhere out of the way. This is the last thing before it will be complete.


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## 2003gtivr62.8liter (Sep 1, 2009)

madonion said:


> Anyone else as red and brown wires going to the n112 solenoid ? Diagrams show it should be blue/yellow, brown/yellow.


 I will check my wires when I get home after work and let u know.


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## madonion (May 1, 2007)

Never mind, diagrams are correct. I had the wrong connector.


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## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

2003gtivr62.8liter said:


> Ok so I have called every place I can think of except the VW dealer. Where can I get the 330 ohm resistors from? Right now I am thinking of just disconnecting it and just tucking it somewhere out of the way. This is the last thing before it will be complete.


 
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=330+ohm+resistors


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

i am watching all this very close. i am ready to do it to mine.


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## madonion (May 1, 2007)

Just to keep this thread alive, here's what I wrote to 2003gtivr62.8liter in private. 

I had done the delete but since I followed 1.8T DIY I got some things wrong. I fixed it yesterday. Yesterday I reinstalled the black box under the intake and reinstalled the solenoids. On the n112 I installed a vacuum hose between the in and out of the solenoid, just to keep dust out of the solenoid. I removed the resistors I had installed in the past and just kept the solenoid plugged in. Like someone else said in the thread it's important to keep the N156 solenoid for the intake change over. Most people recommend 330ohm 10 watts resistor but I believe it is not required for the SAI pump it self, and I have doubt about 330ohm 10 watts being the ideal resistor to get for everything. I measured the N80 @25ohms and N112 at 55ohms. I believe if you let the n112 and the n80 plugged in you won't have to purchase any resistors. I believe you should keep the black vacuum box under the intake since it provide the reserve of vacuum to feed the N156 (intake change over). 

At the time I bought the resistor from integrated engineering. I need to clear the codes in my ECU and make sure everything runs like it should. But everything seems fine now.


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## secfodubbin (Apr 5, 2012)

Im attempting this also and have some questions, I'm pretty new to vw but I get the hang of things... I took the combi valve off and the pump and all, installed the block off plate.. Now I'm wondering what my next step is... Where should I put the ground wire, and where exactly are the solenoids located?


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## 2003gtivr62.8liter (Sep 1, 2009)

I put the ground wire on the stud top right. As for the solenoid it is in front of the head. I left mine in but took off both vacuum lines from the SAI solenoid. Pluged both of them and the IMT solenoid. Everything runs good. Driven the car around 200 miles. Going to get it flashed by um and get launch control for ****s and giggles Monday. I will let u guys know that night how everything is.


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

what did you use to plug the vac lines?


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## 2003gtivr62.8liter (Sep 1, 2009)

I went to autozone and bought the vacu-tite value pack lol. Vacuum cap assortment. I went yesterday and got the car flashed by UM and it is all good and then some. :laugh:


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## jaso028 (Aug 12, 2007)

so with the flash are you running the resistors?


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## 2003gtivr62.8liter (Sep 1, 2009)

Nope. No resistors. I just plugged the vacuum lines and that was that.


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## MachtSchnell (Oct 31, 2010)

2003gtivr62.8liter said:


> Nope. No resistors. I just plugged the vacuum lines and that was that.


Ditto, I removed the pump and valve and plugged the vacuum line. Screw buying a block off plate for what $50? I bought aluminum flat stock at HomeDepot (


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## jaso028 (Aug 12, 2007)

Ok good to know with the UM tune I am able to not run resistors.. I know what I am ordering next week! 
Thanks for the good updates and good write up!!


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## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

Does it pass readiness though? I'd get it scanned with VAG-COM to be sure. I know in my state (CT), when it comes to your emissions test, they check not just for engine lights, but for readiness as well.

There are 8 parameters (I think) that need to pass (or read "0"). One is the smog pump (SAI pump in this case) is one of them.


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## 2003gtivr62.8liter (Sep 1, 2009)

No problem. If u need in advice while doing it just send a message to me


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## MachtSchnell (Oct 31, 2010)

GRN6IX said:


> Does it pass readiness though? I'd get it scanned with VAG-COM to be sure. I know in my state (CT), when it comes to your emissions test, they check not just for engine lights, but for readiness as well.
> 
> There are 8 parameters (I think) that need to pass (or read "0"). One is the smog pump (SAI pump in this case) is one of them.


Dunno, but I believe so. I'm keeping the parts just in case problems with emissions arise, and if I ever decide to sell the car.

The main reason for doing this was to gain better access to the oil cooler/heater o-rings that needed replacing. I figure oil on the ground is more harmful than a little cold start emissions.


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## Yak Meat (Sep 28, 2011)

bump need this


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## 24vGTiVR6 (Sep 14, 2010)

yep I second the comments made before..... 

I left all solenoids plugged in and tied up out of the way (no resistors), deleted the vacuum reservoir, and capped off all vac lines - with a UM 630cc BT flash. No CEL's and it passed emissions although it was a sniffer type test so I can't comment about readiness codes etc. 

Although my next test will be done via OBD.... so I'm curious to know if it passes or not.


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## 2003gtivr62.8liter (Sep 1, 2009)

This is why I love where I live. Good ole OHIO!!! No emmisions test!!!!!!!


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## DemonTech (Jul 29, 2012)

*DemonTech has questions*

just got an 01 vr6 and pulled the engine to do some mods on it. and the SAI is already disconnected but just still bolted on (it was like that when i bought the car). I am new to VW tuning. Normally i build BMW's but i wanted to build a jetta. I've got everything i want to put on it but im also wanting to eleminate the SAI completely. The car ran like crap and im assuming it has something to do with this thing. correct me if im wrong. i need to remove it, block of the hole, plug the vacume line at the solenoid, then get it flashed and that will get rid of everything that has to do with the SAI. 

While ive got the eninge out im doing a full rebuild on it. then adding a T3 turbo kit, front mount intercooler, F1 racing flywheel, Stage 4 clutch kit, NGK plug wires, ZEX plugs, cold air intake, and a ZEX 150 wet nitrous kit. (the turbo kit is going to be set to only 5 PSI and im not ever planing on using the nitrous just puting everything on it because it makes it look better at the shows.) 

is there anything else you would recomend?


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## gti_sean (Feb 14, 2009)

so im looking at some of the other vacuum lines and wondering what their for, and do i need them, 










one hose goes to a "T" and the fuel rail, then up and around to the back of the manifold, what is it for, can i put a "90" to the fuel rail and get rid of the rest, or is it needed? 


















another hose goes from under the fuel rail peice to the intake right after the MAF, is that needed, and what does it do? 









better view 

















also the hosees around the back, are thewy needed, they go everywhere... 


























and


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## DemonTech (Jul 29, 2012)

I am in the process of building an AFP vr6 and i could not find a SAI block off to fit it anywhere. so i designed one that will fit the AAA and the AFP prototyping starts tomorrow. this is a crucial part for my build and i would assume it is for everyones build. Not going to be any type of special symbols or color just a two piece aluminium block off. as soon as mine is installed and i know that it is not going to have any issues i will get back on here and let you all know and post pics of it. if anyone else wants one let me know. i dont see them costing any more than like 15 bucks. i also made a block off plate for the SAI valve pedestal. it performs the same function but it leaves the mounting pedestal on the head. it just didnt really seem like a full removal with the pedestal still mounted.


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## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

You could always just use your factory SAI unit/ grind off the SAI portion and weld on a plug, or plug it with a freeze plug.

Like this:


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## DemonTech (Jul 29, 2012)

well thats actually a different engine then the AFP 12v VR6. yes you could use a freeze plug but rubber will break down and eventually something bad will happen. plus that is just a ghetto, shade tree mechanic way of doing it. the welding on a plug is similar to the first thing i did which was cut off the valve pedestal as close as i could then tig weld the hole up and it worked but it just looked like crap. i know once the engine is installed you cant see it but i am taking pictures of every part opf this build and it was just to ugly to leave like that. plus with the new SAI block off that i made it should work on MK3 and MK4 12v vr6 engines.


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## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

Sorry for being so vague in my reply. I was just posting a different option to the one posted in the original post (on the BDF) that costs around 50 dollars. I'm not familiar with the AFP SAI, although I know it is different than the MK3 12v unit, hence why the 42DD plug will not work. Good luck with your project, if you have the means to, you could start producing them for sale on here, there would obviously be a market for them!


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## Charles Devine (Aug 22, 2007)

Added to the new official DIY/FAQ sheet, please see my signature until this becomes sticked.

-Charles


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## Klaus Daimler (Jul 7, 2012)

does anyone have pictures of the finished product? (i.e. all the vac lines in their final positions and where to plug the solenoids and what not?)


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## 2003gtivr62.8liter (Sep 1, 2009)

I don't have a pic, but just follow what i wrote. I believe all you have to do is get a vaccuum line cap and cap off the solenoid that is missing the vaccuum line from the SAI. Just take out the whole SAI and canister and it is basically right there for you. Pretty self explanatory. I can take a pic of my engine bay, but it wouldn't be what you need considering I would have to take apart the front end to get the right pics.


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## Klaus Daimler (Jul 7, 2012)

2003gtivr62.8liter said:


> I don't have a pic, but just follow what i wrote. I believe all you have to do is get a vaccuum line cap and cap off the solenoid that is missing the vaccuum line from the SAI. Just take out the whole SAI and canister and it is basically right there for you. Pretty self explanatory. I can take a pic of my engine bay, but it wouldn't be what you need considering I would have to take apart the front end to get the right pics.


Cool thanks, so far ive gotten the pump unit out and the solenoid out from under the LIM and im about to install the 42 block off. the ground wire is the only thing im scratching my head on, i saw in your previous posts you put it on the "stud top right" to be specific where is the ground wire and which top right stud do you mean? thanks for all the help this is the most information ive gotten on the subject in a long time


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## 2003gtivr62.8liter (Sep 1, 2009)

Keep your soleniods attached to the black box. Just put a vaccuum cap on the ends that are now open. The Ground wire should be the only wire left that is not hooked up to anything. I put mine on the top of the valve cover nearest the trans and firewall. You might have to put a new lock nut on it to help keep it secure


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## adcodo (Dec 17, 2013)

Looking at deleting my pump too! will there be a CEL after? and if so is there any way to get rid of it forever? also planning on getting a UM tune if that changes anything.


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

SOOO glad somebody already went down this road.

I'm really big into 1.8t stuff and things. My wife just got an '05 GTI 24V. She's super stoked so i'm happy about that.

Anyway. Went to do spark plugs today and the coil packs were drowning in oil. Since there were no codes and it ran butter smooth, I figured it's the valve cover gasket. Got the Intake manifold off (what a b!tch) and the valve cover gasket off and I was right. The gasket was crinkly and brittle. Now that I'm in there, I recognize a lot of the tubes and hose and after tracing them, I realized they're all part of emissions, Evap and SAI. I REALLY want to delete as much as I can. I have a Eurocustoms tune and I know it delete the post cat o2, i'm gonna ask if it deletes the SAI. I am going to order the SAI delete block from IE because I like IE bling.

Is there any movement on this. I see the last comment is some time ago. Can I PLEASE get rid of the big dumb block under the intake manifold? Any news on resistors?

Thanks in advance.


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## 2DubBub (Feb 25, 2018)

MÄDDNESSS said:


> SOOO glad somebody already went down this road.
> 
> I'm really big into 1.8t stuff and things. My wife just got an '05 GTI 24V. She's super stoked so i'm happy about that.
> 
> ...



The vacuum reservoir and one of the two solenoids under the intake manifold controls your variable intake. I removed my SAIP and left the solenoid for it plugged in and capped off.


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

2DubBub said:


> The vacuum reservoir and one of the two solenoids under the intake manifold controls your variable intake. I removed my SAIP and left the solenoid for it plugged in and capped off.


I'm guessing the variable intake cant be deleted. Unless I go with an aftermarket manifold.

So all I can remove is the pump, the big plastic hoses and the combi valve on the back of the block?


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## 2DubBub (Feb 25, 2018)

MÄDDNESSS said:


> I'm guessing the variable intake cant be deleted. Unless I go with an aftermarket manifold.
> 
> So all I can remove is the pump, the big plastic hoses and the combi valve on the back of the block?



It can be deleted but, you might lose some mid-range. Some people do it and claim there's no difference, I'd guess theirs wasn't working in the first place. So that's up to you. The only aftermarket manifolds for this engine are short-runners and you'll only want to use those if you're going forced induction. 

So, what you've listed is pretty much what you can get rid of when it comes to the SAI system. It does clear up a decent amount of space. It helps more when working from underneath the car than above. 


Side note on the variable intake: I've put a lot of thought into this myself. For me, it came down to the current condition of my manifold. There was a vacuum leak in my change-over valve and upgraded bushings for my intake shifter rod didn't keep it from rattling like pennies in a can. So, I figured my manifold is past it's prime and needs to be replaced, the system isn't functioning and it's causing additional problems. Until I'm ready to replace everything I've just locked my shifter rod in place and capped off any vacuum lines involved. So, maybe you'll want to think about those things too. Is the system working, and if it isn't do you feel like spending the time and money to get it back to where it should be? If not, you may as well take the vacuum reservoir out. Personally, I'll be fixing mine when I have the more essential things taken care of. Sorry for the rant, just got excited to see something happening on the 24v forum


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

2DubBub said:


> It can be deleted but, you might lose some mid-range. Some people do it and claim there's no difference, I'd guess theirs wasn't working in the first place. So that's up to you. The only aftermarket manifolds for this engine are short-runners and you'll only want to use those if you're going forced induction.
> 
> So, what you've listed is pretty much what you can get rid of when it comes to the SAI system. It does clear up a decent amount of space. It helps more when working from underneath the car than above.
> 
> ...


I'm a little confused.
First you said I MIGHT lose a little bit of mid range power then referenced those who have deleted it and didn't notice any chance as if they were wrong.
If this tumbling thingy does what I think it does, then its the low end that it controls. like the flapper valves in the new 2.0T and TDIs.

Also, HPA makes a long runner manifold to retain the stock MAF placement for NA application.

https://www.hpamotorsports.com/cvp-short-runner-intake-manifold

The system is working, as in there isn't a CEL or anything else that tells me there is something wrong. As I stated in my first post on this thread, I pulled the intake manifold off to replace the VC gasket. WHILE I'm in there (famous last words) I'm doing serious preventative maintenance. I'll be putting in the Ultimate crack pipe from GruvenParts along with the CNC'd (delrin?) pieces from them and the billet manifold drive ball and linkage, and cast parts for the coolant system. I'm debating whether or not if I should get the billet auxillary pump bracket. Is the stock one really an issue?

With that said, I'm not looking to remove the variable intake tumbler thingy, just the whole fvck fest under and around it.

Jeez, I should probably just make build progress/thread.


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## 2DubBub (Feb 25, 2018)

MÄDDNESSS said:


> I'm a little confused.
> First you said I MIGHT lose a little bit of mid range power then referenced those who have deleted it and didn't notice any chance as if they were wrong.
> If this tumbling thingy does what I think it does, then its the low end that it controls. like the flapper valves in the new 2.0T and TDIs.
> 
> ...



Right, what I should have just said is google "intake shifter rod delete." Then you would have seen the endless threads of debate on the effects. It operates between ~2k-4k RPM. Anyway, you said you really wanted to get rid of the vacuum res and asked if the variable intake could be removed. So I was just trying to give you a little bit of a rundown, I guess. 

Also, that manifold is for a 3.2. Which has a different head than a 2.8 so it's not gonna fit.


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

2DubBub said:


> Right, what I should have just said is google "intake shifter rod delete." Then you would have seen the endless threads of debate on the effects. It operates between ~2k-4k RPM. Anyway, you said you really wanted to get rid of the vacuum res and asked if the variable intake could be removed. So I was just trying to give you a little bit of a rundown, I guess.
> 
> Also, that manifold is for a 3.2. Which has a different head than a 2.8 so it's not gonna fit.


I see. Thanks for the skinny on it.

It will fit on the 3.2 head i'm gonna swap on to it.


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## KurtCav (May 8, 2010)

Thanks for making this write up! Saving it for future use!


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