# My 8v rebuild (in progress)



## HappyVdubber2 (Dec 28, 2001)

Hey, I'm new to the 8v forum so any tips, pointers, do's and don'ts that you can suggest, please feel free to let me know. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I actually don't even own a car right now but I'm in the process of sourcing a clean Mk2 Golf or GTi. I picked up this old JH 1.8L from a local club member for a 12 case of beer (Keith's if it matters







) and decided that a rebuild will keep me busy while searching for my next ride. I tend to rush into things and having a rebuild to hold me back is definately a good thing! Anyways, blah, blah, blah...here's where I'm at.
Dropped by my local Princess Auto and bought a stand.
















I spent most of the 1st morning fighting with rusty screws and bolts trying to remove most of the peripheral items attached to the block and head.
























Rusty as you can see. For today, I thought I'd get started on some gereral cleanup so I headed over to my Canadian Tire and picked up some cleaning supplies.
1) 3 pack of wire brushes








2) 1 brass wiring wheel for a drill








3) 4L of Motormaster brand auto parts cleaner and degeaser








4) Foaming Motormaster brand engine cleaner








5) A can of penetrating oil








I actually wired the engine dry for a while before taking these photo's, so if you can imagine, the condition was even worse. The engine's soaking in the Motormaster foam stuff. It only stay's foamy for maybe 5 minutes
















I let the engine soak for about 30 minutes then went at it again with the wire brushes and wire wheel on a drill. Still a long way to go, but it was a start. You can see that I am missing some exhaust manifold studs.








The bill for today is as follows:
Wire Brush 3 pack - 3.99
Motormaster Wire Wheel - 4.99
Motormaster Foamy engine cleaner - 4.49
Motormaster Dunk Engine Degreaser - 19.99
3 in 1 Penetrating Oil - 4.99
1.8L Engine - 12 Pack of Keiths - 20.00
Engine Stand - 44.44
For a grand total of - $102.89 (no taxes calculated)


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## HappyVdubber2 (Dec 28, 2001)

Got the engine up on it's stand...








Here's a close up of how it's mounted...








Pulled the valve cover off and had a look inside for the first time...

























Here's a question, I noticed that the lobes on the camshaft are rusty, can I just use my brass wire wheel to polish those up? Anything that I would have to look out for?
Anyways, when looking around inside the head, I realized that I did not have the correct bit to remove the head bolts. I drove out to Princess Auto but they did not seem to have what I needed. After making a quick call to a local club member while on my way to Canadian Tire, I picked up a Triple Square bit.








However, no one can ever leave Princess Auto without buying something, so I picked up some tools and more cleaning supplies. 
Here are some Hex Head Drivers (5.99)...








I am having some problems getting the oil filter housing and what ever the part (that smells like gas) is beside it, off. So I also picked up this set of easy outs...








And the cleaning tools...
















So after getting the triple square bit, I managed to pull the head off...
















Here's a close up of what's inside...ewwwwwh!
















And now some shots of the head...
























I measured up the valves to confirm if this is a GTI motor, 40mm intake and 33mm Exhaust...








Damage for today (taxes not calculated):
Extracter set - $5.99
Hex Head Key Set - $5.99
Brass Wire Brush Cup - $6.59
Rust Removal Pad - $8.99
Triple Square Bit Set - $21.99
Nut, Bolts and Washers for mounting the engine - $4.39
Todays Total = $53.94
Grand Total = $156.83



_Modified by HappyVdubber2 at 2:42 PM 9-27-2004_


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## HappyVdubber2 (Dec 28, 2001)

I spent a good portion of this morning cleaning the block using various combinations of wire brushes, wheels and the drill. Here are the results...
Front...








Back...








Here a closeup of where the Oil filter housing and CIS Fuel Pressure Controller once sat. I still need to scrape off some of the gasket...








I took some paper towel on the tip of my fingure to see how bad the carbon build up is on the pistons. Not too bad (I think)...








I am going to purchase a smaller wire wheels and try to get into the smaller areas better. Next step will the the cylinder head disassembly.


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## HappyVdubber2 (Dec 28, 2001)

Today I pulled the bearing caps, camshaft and cam followers (lifters)...
















The questions is concerning the solid lifter "shims". You can see in the following picture one of two notches which each cam follower contains.








Is there some kind of tool that's needed to pop off the top disc (shim)?


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## machschnelGTI (Jun 28, 2004)

*Re: (HappyVdubber2)*

you can use a small screwdriver, but it you are reusing the same cam, leave the shims in the lifters as they are all slightly different sizes...and don't mix them up.


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## HappyVdubber2 (Dec 28, 2001)

*Re: (machschnelGTI)*

I've been told that the camshaft is toast, no?


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## Vwagen18t (Jun 13, 2004)

*Re: (HappyVdubber2)*

not too sure about the cam








imo, i'd go with fresh parts i.e. new camshaft (only run you $100 +/-) http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
nice rebuild







to ya


_Modified by Vwagen18t at 3:37 AM 9-28-2004_


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## triton2 (Sep 29, 2002)

*Re: (Vwagen18t)*

Starting with a motor before the car... nice way to do it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## BuZnEE (Jan 5, 2002)

*Re: (triton2)*

are you gonna take the plugs out from the block? also are you gonna get the block hot tanked?


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## HappyVdubber2 (Dec 28, 2001)

*Re: (BuZnEE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BuZnEE* »_are you gonna take the plugs out from the block? also are you gonna get the block hot tanked?

Do you mean the frost plugs? If I can find a local shop, I would like to go the hole nine yards and get the block hot tanked. How much does this service normally run for?


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## 89JettaCoupe (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (HappyVdubber2)*

Looks like a fun project! And some good documentation to go with it. If you want a Ggrind cam I might have one I could give ya for free +shipping (unless you're looking for something more aggressive)


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## HappyVdubber2 (Dec 28, 2001)

*Re: (89JettaCoupe)*


_Quote, originally posted by *89JettaCoupe* »_Looks like a fun project! And some good documentation to go with it. If you want a Ggrind cam I might have one I could give ya for free +shipping (unless you're looking for something more aggressive)









I think I may take you up on that! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif You've got PM.


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## 86 gti turbo nitrus (Jul 30, 2004)

looks like fun iam going throught the same exact process but iam going with all performance parts and a turbo


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## HappyVdubber2 (Dec 28, 2001)

*Re: (86 gti turbo nitrus)*


_Quote, originally posted by *86 gti turbo nitrus* »_looks like fun iam going throught the same exact process but iam going with all performance parts and a turbo

Are you rebuilding the same motor (JH)? What parts are you using for the turbo system?


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## 86 gti turbo nitrus (Jul 30, 2004)

iam doing the rd


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## machschnelGTI (Jun 28, 2004)

*Re: (86 gti turbo nitrus)*

hot tanking will run about $30...take all the freeze plugs out ... punch holes in 'em with a screwdriver and a hammer and pry on 'em, and take everything else off the block. Don't mix up the main caps or rod caps, I usually mark them 1, 2, 3, 4, etc... with a centerpunch. 1 dot, 2 dots, 3 dots, etc.... Reinstall them on the block and the rods before hottanking.


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## BuZnEE (Jan 5, 2002)

*Re: (machschnelGTI)*

do you have to preclean the engine before hot tanking or can you just get it hot tanked as is?


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## turbowagen (Sep 24, 2001)

*Re: (86 gti turbo nitrus)*

Isnt the JH more turbo friendly because of the lower compression? The only real difference I guess is the pistons though.


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## 86 gti turbo nitrus (Jul 30, 2004)

oh ok well igot new pistons


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## machschnelGTI (Jun 28, 2004)

*Re: (machschnelGTI)*

You don't need to do anything....just show up with a ball of crud and tell them there is an engine somewhere in the middle of it and throw it in the hot tank. I just went through the top end of my engine, I spent very little money and had amazing results. The engine makes awesome power, more than I expected. I did a homegrown port and minor polish, took 1mm off the head, installed a header and a big cam along with an Autotech Power Module. It pulls harder than my old 16 valves used to. There is a place up in Washington called Delta Cams. They regrind stock cams to their own profiles and then retreat the lobes. I am using the Delta Cams #272 grind for a Hydro head...Its got a lopey idle but makes loads of power. Cams are $65 directly through them with a $35 core charge. I've been running the cam for about 6 months and it shows no signs of wear like an improperly reground cam....these guys are really cool, great products and great customer service.


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## baomo motorsports (Sep 6, 2004)

*Re: My 8v rebuild (HappyVdubber2)*

yea i would look into getting the block hot tanked, it'll come out so clean you can eat a sammich off it. probably only cost like $20 or so.
looks like a fun project http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## ABA Scirocco (May 30, 2001)

*Re: (HappyVdubber2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *HappyVdubber2* »_The questions is concerning the solid lifter "shims". You can see in the following picture one of two notches which each cam follower contains.








Is there some kind of tool that's needed to pop off the top disc (shim)?

There's a special pair of pliers made for the job. You can find a picture of the pliers here  Driverfound's valve adjustment page 
Even with those pliers, the shims sometimes stick and can be a bit of a pita to separate from the lifter, I think it's the surface tension of the oil trapped under the shim that makes them stick. So, I use compressed air to pop the shims, if you look carefully at the notch you can see the bottom edge of the shim, direct a jet of air right there for several seconds and the shim will pop out. That's BY FAR the easiest method that I've ever used and I've got the special pliers.



_Modified by ABA Scirocco at 1:30 AM 10-4-2004_


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## 86 gti turbo nitrus (Jul 30, 2004)

*Re: (ABA Scirocco)*

[IMGhttp://ssl10.mysecureserver.com/bosstoolscom/store/store/catalog/r-1700.jpg][/IMG]


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## 86 gti turbo nitrus (Jul 30, 2004)

*Re: (86 gti turbo nitrus)*


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## 86 gti turbo nitrus (Jul 30, 2004)

these would work perfect for your build


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## HappyVdubber2 (Dec 28, 2001)

*Re: (86 gti turbo nitrus)*

Thanks for the interest guys. Not much to update yet as I still haven't got the valve springs out. Today I removed the oil pan just to look inside the block. I will post pictures shortly.
Have a question.








The bearing cap on the far right (with the red seal), is this cap "1" or "5"? My Bentley doesn't detail.


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## [email protected] (Jun 29, 2004)

*Re: (HappyVdubber2)*

very nice DIY , the pictures are great. your gonna have a nice motor when your done http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Tjax (Feb 20, 2003)

*Re: (HappyVdubber2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *HappyVdubber2* »_
The bearing cap on the far right (with the red seal), is this cap "1" or "5"? My Bentley doesn't detail.

*1*


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## MrWizard (Feb 10, 2004)

*Re: (Tjax)*

great detailed post http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








Thanks for you time and effort put into this post can't wait to see your progress


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## HappyVdubber2 (Dec 28, 2001)

*Re: (MrWizard)*

We just had our thanksgiving weekend so I haven't had a ton of time to work on the engine. I've removed the oilpan and oilpump and have started working on the disassembly of the bottom end. I will update with detailed pictures in short time. Thanks for the great responses!








-Craig


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## 86 gti turbo nitrus (Jul 30, 2004)

i would get a new oil pump if i were u also


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## mechsoldier (Aug 14, 2004)

*Re: (86 gti turbo nitrus)*

To answer your question I wouldn't use a wire wheel on any area that has close tolerances such as piston bores, crank journals, cam lobes, rod journals. I know brass is soft....but I still wouldn't risk it. If it's messed up buy a new one, don't spin a bearing after all this work is the general idea. I would replace the cam if I was you also. (I know you now plan to, but I'm just saying)


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## baomo motorsports (Sep 6, 2004)

*Re: My 8v rebuild (HappyVdubber2)*








for updates.


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## 86 gti turbo nitrus (Jul 30, 2004)

bump


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## kobe82 (Dec 27, 2003)

*Re: (86 gti turbo nitrus)*

i must say i turboed a jh motor it is a whoping 8:5-1 comp so ya its perfict for turbo lOOk








http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## kobe82 (Dec 27, 2003)

*Re: (kobe82)*

Try this


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## kobe82 (Dec 27, 2003)

*Re: (kobe82)*

And here is the motor..... any questions


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## HappyVdubber2 (Dec 28, 2001)

*Re: (kobe82)*

Hey guys! First off, thanks for all the interest.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








Saturday afternoon I will be posting all the pics of my progress to date.
Here's a repost from my home clubs forum. Input would be much appreciated...

_Quote »_
Hey guys, 
I am at a point right now in my rebuild process where I need to decide if I'm going to use the JH motor or not. The next step would be to spend some money and get the block tanked, various bottom end pieces measured for tollerences, ect.. Then go and buy the nessesary gasket kits and hardware to put things back togeather. 
My thought process is running on the following assumptions: 
- the next car's a Mk2 
- likely to have a Digi2 motor 
- in the future I would like to run some type of boost on SDS 
Option 1: 
Rebuild the complete JH motor + digi2 EFI components + boost? 
Option 2: 
Rebuild just the JH bottom end + digi2 counter flow hydro head & EFI components + boost? (cheapest) 
Option 3: 
JH bottom end + ABA cross flow head w/ ABA EFI components + boost? 
Option 4: 
Complete the JH rebuild and sell it? 
Option 5:
Put it back togeather with the old junk, write it off as a learning experience, take the money I was going to spend on the rebuild and put it towards a complete ABA motor + boost or G60 setup?




_Modified by HappyVdubber2 at 1:03 PM 10-27-2004_


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## kobe82 (Dec 27, 2003)

*Re: (HappyVdubber2)*

well how much do you plan on spending ? couse i would love to lend a word or 2


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## HappyVdubber2 (Dec 28, 2001)

*Re: (kobe82)*

I think I may be leaning towards option 3. Then I could buy a 1.8T badge








Edit: Found a place locally that will do the "hot tank" service.


_Modified by HappyVdubber2 at 9:12 AM 10-28-2004_


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## hatter36 (May 20, 2003)

*Re: (HappyVdubber2)*

I'm thinking option 3... just because I hear good things about the Motronic system.
Any idea what putting that head on your motor would do for compression though?

Also, where are you getting the engine hot-tanked, for future reference


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## HappyVdubber2 (Dec 28, 2001)

*Re: (hatter36)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hatter36* »_I'm thinking option 3... just because I hear good things about the Motronic system.

Acutally, I am going SDS

_Quote »_Any idea what putting that head on your motor would do for compression though?

8.5:1 c/r

_Quote »_Also, where are you getting the engine hot-tanked, for future reference









Engines Extra
Stafford Rd., Nepean Ontario
613-8285413


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## hatter36 (May 20, 2003)

*Re: (HappyVdubber2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *HappyVdubber2* »_
Acutally, I am going SDS
8.5:1 c/r
Engines Extra
Stafford Rd., Nepean Ontario
613-8285413

SDS > Motronic > Digi II. Anyways, I was thinking either ABA bottom end or complete Crossflow swap. I'm annoyed with Digifant, so that's the reason I would like to do an entire swap really. 
Naturally, i'd do a little polishing and add a cam to the head before I put it in. Thinking about big valves and lightened hydro lifters as this will be a daily and I don't wanna have to adjust lifters every so often.


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## HappyVdubber2 (Dec 28, 2001)

*Re: (hatter36)*

Some updated pictures...
Oil pan off, right before I pulled the oilpump.








Pulled the Intermediate shaft sprocket, seal and housing off.








































Piston 1 comes out!
































And the rest.








Dropped piston 2 when pushing it out of the block. Hope it's nothing serious?








How the hell am I supposed to get the bolt holding the crankshaft off?








And how am I supposed to remove caps 1 & 5? There is not enough space between the head of the bolt and the side of the block. The walls of my 17mm socket are too thick.


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## 86 gti turbo nitrus (Jul 30, 2004)

*Re: (HappyVdubber2)*

nice update...... hope u finish soon nice job http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Montana Green (Sep 24, 2003)

*Re: (86 gti turbo nitrus)*

Looks like a fun project.
Remember when you are out parts shopping, as well as gaskets and seals you will need some fasteners. The head bolts, 12pt. crank pulley bolt, and some connecting rod bolts are stretch bolts, and are one time use only. I know for the G60 it says you can re-use rod bolts once, so I did. So far so good.
Are you planning on boosting this engine in the future? If yes, then a crossflow head would be A LOT easier to work with for that purpose, so look into that before you spend any money on your current head. If not, maybe you should consider a 10:1cr bottom end. I think that JH is 8.5:1, which won't be much fun even after it's rebuilt. 8v's are "falling out of people pockets" as someone once put it to me, so you should find a 10:1 bottom end for no more than $50.
Since you are going to all the effort of cleaning this thing up, I would also suggest using the one piece rubber valve cover gasket. It will save the aggravation of watching your freshly cleaned and assembled engine get drenched in oil. Some people would suggest getting new injector cups as well while everything is apart. My injectors were a pain in the ass to get out so I figured the cups couldn't be too bad







.
Make sure you follow all the proper torque values and sequences when you reassemble everything, and reassemble everything in the same place it came from.
Good Luck http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## HappyVdubber2 (Dec 28, 2001)

*Re: (Montana Green)*

Thanks for your post. 
Boost is somewhere in my near future. I'm leaning towards using just the JH bottom end and a crossflow head as you suggested. 8.5:1 c/r, running 15-20psi should be fun! No bolt or fastener would be re-used but I'm not going to install APR hardware, just use factory style "stretch" bolts. The APR stuff is so expensive!
-Craig


_Modified by HappyVdubber2 at 5:29 PM 10-31-2004_


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## machschnelGTI (Jun 28, 2004)

*Re: (HappyVdubber2)*

First, in order to gain enough clearance to remove the #1 and #5 main caps, I would take the aluminum seal retainer plates off the front and rear of the engine....and good luck on getting the crank bolt out.
As far as reusing that cam....don't. I have a pile of them in my garage and I'd be happy to give you one, if you pay for shipping. I've got a new JH cam....it came with the head I bought from VW. Whatever you do, take it easy on the compression....race gas gets expensive. I just bolted together a 1.8 16V block with a Ported JH head and a big cam...I have to run a minimum of 105 octane fuel to keep the detonation under control.


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## Red Robertson (Oct 20, 2003)

*Re: (machschnelGTI)*

To get the bolt holding the crankshaft pulley off try wedging a piece of 2x4 or even a hammer handle, i would recomend something wood, between the counterweight on the crank and the block, then use a strongbar on the bolt and it should come out, 
Also maybe try heating it up with a oxy/actly tourch, 
I just rebuilt a 8v engine for my 92 golf and i looked for parts forever, since i am also in canada
The cheapest easiest parts i could find was from 
http://www.altrom.com
just look up what you want and write the part number down, then head into your local uap napa store and they will order it for you.
Good Luck and if you have anymore questions im or email me, 
Andy


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## kobe82 (Dec 27, 2003)

*Re: (Red Robertson)*

the easest thing i think is using a good impact like a mac or a snop on yo get it off cant afford one rent it


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## Man&Golf (Oct 2, 2001)

*Re: (HappyVdubber2)*

nice one dude keep it up............ http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 2.9VR6 (Jul 24, 2003)

*Re: My 8v rebuild (HappyVdubber2)*

I have 2 heads on my bench right now. One is from my '95 CL ACC block and the other is from a MkII Jetta and neither have the #4 cam bracket. 
Weird?
I'm rebuilding my ACC head. Reconditioning it, replacing all valve seals, valves and throwing in a 276 cam.


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## coneracer (Sep 11, 2002)

*Re: My 8v rebuild (2.9VR6)*

I'm rebuilding my JH also. The Crank bolt is giving me some trouble too.
I'll be using 10.8 - 1 forged pistons, p & p shaved head, lightened. balanced. shot peened. knife egded. polished. crank and intermediate shaft, 288tt race cam, twin dellorto's, jacobs ignition. lightened flywheel, 6 puck clutch etc. etc. 
OT, has anyone had their rods shot peened and balanced? Rod strength is my only concern right now. 
Good luck with the rebuild


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## EVDTuning (Jul 2, 2004)

*Re: My 8v rebuild (coneracer)*

It's coming together very nice. Those pistons look like SH!T! I never seen piston so dirty before.







Keep up the good work bro'
I took am in the process of doing an 8v build up. You didnt need all those chemicals. I just used Simple Green and the wire brushes.
Before build up. minor clean up.
















Freshly built
















Mock up


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## Cab42 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (HappyVdubber2)*

Happy, (and others) very nice of you that you are posting pics as your work makes progress. More pics?


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## 86 gti turbo nitrus (Jul 30, 2004)

i will post some pic's of mine later


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## kobe82 (Dec 27, 2003)

*Re: (86 gti turbo nitrus)*

looking good http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 86 gti turbo nitrus (Jul 30, 2004)

*Re: (kobe82)*

hers the turbo will post pics when it gets bolted up and the motor painted







DESCRIPTION:
Brand: Borgwarner / IHI
Model: 51T-32
Size: T3/T04E
Compressor A/R: 0.70 
Compressor trim: 54
* 360° thrustplate, dynamic seal, integrated backplate
Turbine A/R: 0.6 
Turbine trim: stage II
Flange type: standard T3


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## HappyVdubber2 (Dec 28, 2001)

*Re: (86 gti turbo nitrus)*

here's what i've been working on...
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1703653


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

That rebuild is coming out great.  If you plan on keeping the engine, you should look into getting the intermediate shaft lightened and balanced, I hear that there is a big lobe on them that used to drive a fuel pump back in the day... 
While you are doing the buildup, are you going to put any performance parts on? I would throw on some lightweight cam and intermediate shaft gears, get a port and polish, and a more aggressive camshaft...
I am in the process of prepping an ABA bottom end for my 83 Rabbit. I have a old solid lifter head that I am going to send out to get a P&P, and I am also going to do a bigger cam, adjustable cam gear, and lightened intermediate shaft, with lighter gear...
Good luck with your rebulid, thanks for all the pictures!


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## mdm (Apr 1, 2004)

i completed the same project this summer. i found that the easiest and safest way to remove carbon from the pistons/combustion chamber is with a combustion chamber cleaner. you can get that for cheap at canadian tire. just soak and use a bristle brush to wipe clean. make sure tou get the oil holes clean that are in the groves for the rings. if you are interested, i have a set of pistons from an '84 gti with a jh engine that have been cleaned that i'll let go cheaply. 
good luch with your project


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## 86 gti turbo nitrus (Jul 30, 2004)

bump


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## Paxle (Aug 29, 2004)

*Re: (86 gti turbo nitrus)*

any updates?


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## HappyVdubber2 (Dec 28, 2001)

*Re: (Paxle)*

Engines gone. I gave it away after I bought my car. There was no time as other items needed attention.


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## juli0s (Nov 2, 2004)

*Re: (HappyVdubber2)*

oh no !
your walk-thru rocked !


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## wclark (Mar 28, 2001)

*Re: (HappyVdubber2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *HappyVdubber2* »_
Dropped piston 2 when pushing it out of the block. Hope it's nothing serious?
How the hell am I supposed to get the bolt holding the crankshaft off?
And how am I supposed to remove caps 1 & 5? There is not enough space between the head of the bolt and the side of the block. The walls of my 17mm socket are too thick.


Before you get all excited about clening the pistons you will want the cylinders checked for roundness and determine minimum over bore needed. I would say the odds are pretty good you will need oversized pistons.
I found doing a couple heat/cool cycles with Mapp gass waslenough along with my impact wrench to get mine off. Be sure to let the thing cool before you put a wrench to it. If it is still hot is will be softer and more likely to shear. You will need to secure the crankshaft or the impact motion will be absorbed by the crank.
Remove the seal housings first. Of course you need to get that crankshaft toothed pully off first.


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## 86 gti turbo nitrus (Jul 30, 2004)

bump


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## JFCMK2 (Nov 12, 2004)

*Re: (86 gti turbo nitrus)*

I offer you a







! Thanks for the pictures, this will help me...


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