# Building My Own Big Turbo Kit



## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

Would I be able to cut cost if I build my own kit using an ATP cast manifold and a used turbo. My friend has one and I know its in great shape. Also can esialy do a custom dp.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Of course. The prepackaged kits are where you would waste most of your money, depending on vendor of course. There are exceptions, but ATP and custom piping will be cheaper than APR for example. Just remember: Fast, reliable, and cheap. You only get to pick two.


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

20v master said:


> Just remember: Fast, reliable, and cheap. You only get to pick two.


words to live by :thumbup:


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

Ok so I can get a GT35R T3 turbo for $300, atp manifold $300, oil return lines, oil line adapter fir oil pan, turbo gasket, exhaust gasket, custome intake, fmic, wastegate, BOV, injectors (660 cc?), inline fuel pump, Eurodyne tune, customr DP (or aftermarket one). Anything else i need? 

Looking at about $2500-$3000 doing it that way vs prepackaged kit for $5000.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

02TTQuattro said:


> Ok so I can get a GT35R T3 turbo for $300


Are you getting these parts of ebay?


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

No my friend built his focus and did a turbo kit with a gt35r turbo but smashed the back end and totaled it so he is going to let me get it for $300 since it was in about a month. I correct myself on the turbo mani, its abiut $400.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

02TTQuattro said:


> No my friend built his focus and did a turbo kit with a gt35r turbo but smashed the back end and totaled it so he is going to let me get it for $300 since it was in about a month. I correct myself on the turbo mani, its abiut $400.


That's a huge turbo for a 1.8T in my opinion. You might want to consider the new hybrid turbos that are coming out.

Don't forget big turbo = forged rods at a minimum. Forged Rods = $1000-1500 professional install. Big turbo also means clutch and getting your software spot on. Not trying to be as negative as much as I'm trying to help with your budgeting process.

Shameless plug: my complete hardware kit is for sale currently. Although I've been debating putting it back on my car :banghead:


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

DougLoBue said:


> That's a huge turbo for a 1.8T in my opinion. You might want to consider the new hybrid turbos that are coming out.
> 
> Don't forget big turbo = forged rods at a minimum. Forged Rods = $1000-1500 professional install. Big turbo also means clutch and getting your software spot on. Not trying to be as negative as much as I'm trying to help with your budgeting process.
> 
> Shameless plug: my complete hardware kit is for sale currently.* Although I've been debating putting it back on my car* :banghead:


You know you want to do it..


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

warranty225cpe said:


> You know you want to do it..


Something about being at H2o and not seeing any big HP TT's made me sad. It also makes me sad when I spend thousands and implode motors and my car never runs/drives, hence the head banging.


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

I def plan on doing rods. Putting them in myself though. I know its a huge turbo but that price though.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

02TTQuattro said:


> I def plan on doing rods. Putting them in myself though. I know its a huge turbo but that price though.


So get it, and sell it to make some money to fund a reasonable turbo if the GT35R power capacity is beyond your goals. I had/have a GT35R, and yes it's large for a 1.8, but not unreasonable large. The choice is yours, again depending on your goals. 


And yes Doug, mass quantities of low HP TT's should make you DO EEETTTTTT!!!! :laugh:


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

Well I'd like to run the 35 if I can. Any reason not to? Naturally for me I want to make as much power as possible but not be too laggy.


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

GT28R /GT2560R*- 270-300whp - 3000rpms
GT28RS*/GT2860R*- 290-330whp - 3200rpms*
GT2871R*-325-360whp - ~3400rpms*
GT2876R -*AVOID THIS TURBO, BAD MATCH FOR THE 1.8T*
GT3071R*- 360-425WHP - ~3800rpms*
GT3076R -*380 - 500whp - ~3900rpms***
GT3082R/GT3040R*- 440-550whp - ~4200rpms***
GT35R/GT3582R/GT3040R*- 450-600whp - ~4700rpms**

I love the hp of the 35, but also lovr the rpms of the 3076. 

Ehich do I love more?!?


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

02TTQuattro said:


> GT28R /GT2560R*- 270-300whp - 3000rpms
> GT28RS*/GT2860R*- 290-330whp - 3200rpms*
> GT2871R*-325-360whp - ~3400rpms*
> GT2876R -*AVOID THIS TURBO, BAD MATCH FOR THE 1.8T*
> ...


While those guidelines are close (the power numbers are a little outdated as to what the 1.8T can make with each turbo), it takes a whole lot of supporting mods to reach 600whp on a 35R, so it's not as simple as just installing an ATP manifold (one of the worst to install/remove/fix leaks on) and a 35R. You'll need a GOOD IC core (not a fleabay special), an intake manifold and throttle, good IC piping that is approriately sized (not generic kits), injectors and fuel pump (and rail and lines to get over 500whp on gas, definitely more pump and capability if going to use E85), a good boost controller (preferably gear based boost or at least one with two settings), a clutch and flywheel that can hold that power, the rods you are already going to install, and it would be a good idea to install aftermarket exhaust valves at a minimum. While it may seem like the smart thing to do it all at once, and it'll appear cheaper this way, there is a learning curve (and we don't know your previous experience level and or mechanical abilities) to all of this, and sometimes it's better to do things in steps. 

I never drove a 35R with a 1.8, only with a 2.0 stroker, and it spooled right at 4K rpms. I had several 30R's (3076), and it spooled right at the 4K rpms like listed above. Neither was much fun as a daily driver unless you planned and downshifted accordingly. What are your goals for this project? If it's just a street car that you want more power out of, the smaller the turbo = the more fun it'll be for you, so I'd lean to the 30R, but I'm assuming your budget is leaning you to the 35R since you are getting it used and cheap.


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

Bassically yes on the price factor. I don't have ti run it at itd max. Maybe 400-509 hp


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

02TTQuattro said:


> Bassically yes on the price factor. I don't have ti run it at itd max. Maybe 400-509 hp


A 3071 will do that and be much friendlier as a street car.


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

Why wouldnr the 35 be street car friendly?


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

Ill say this, I'd like to run the 35 instead of the 3976 if I can mainly because of the good deal. Unless someone has a 3976 for around the same price. I say y not get thr bigger tuebo and run it incase I want to go for more later on.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Because it doesn't spool til around 4500 rpms with a .63 turbine housing on a 1.8 liter engine, and it's a dog below that. Simply put, and I'm not trying to be rude, but a $3Kish budget isn't enough to install a proper 35R setup that will be enjoyable and reliable.


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

Ok so I buy a new 3976 for what $900? How much for a complete install kit with bolts, nuts linrs and all?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

I'm with Adam on this- we aren't trying to be discouraging or rude but you need to look at the facts and budget correctly or you will be disappointed later.

$3k will barely get you supporting mods to run a big turbo of any size let alone the entire kit. Clutch, rods (and the parts to DIY install them), software, injectors and fuel pump would eat that budget up quickly.

He is trying to tell you that your car will drive like a Toyota Corolla - literally making 100hp until you hit full boost. After full boost it will be a beast. The goal is to get into boost earlier so you get a smaller turbo that will not lag. If you only want to make 400hp then just get a turbo that can do that.

Just posting this here for you to understand (not to brag). My turbo was a PTE5857 and that is somewhere between a GT30/GT35. Notice where it makes power and where it doesn't. A bunch on this forum have driven it and they can tell you it doesn't make for a great street car unless you like to sit at redline all day.

You are better off accomplishing your goals with a hybrid turbo. It will be less stress on the motor and more bang for your buck in comparison to sinking yourself into the BT world.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

20v master said:


> Just remember: Fast, reliable, and cheap. You only get to pick two.


Wait my car is slow, unreliable and expensive:sly:
I guess I should start paying more attention to go fast threads like this


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

PLAYED TT said:


> Wait my car is slow, unreliable and expensive:sly:
> I guess I should start paying more attention to go fast threads like this


:laugh:


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

Trust me I'm taking everything u say to heart. I. Trying to learn and all of you are helping me. So piecing it all together on pag parts with 3076 turbo, ATP manifold, oil lines and fittings, inline fuel pump, injecters, eurodyne maestro, wastegate and v band clamps will run me $3700. Will make my own aluminum intake, DP, and boost pipe. That versus thr prepackaged kit cost of $5600 that includes dp, Intake and boost pipe.


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

Also I love taking off at redline while 2-stepping.  
Whatd the max power I can make with a hybrid turbo? I'd like to do close to 500 hp.


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

I've already got new clutch and flywheel so all I really need is rods. Also want to run meth. But for the price of the prepackeged kit I can build my own kit, do rods, make custom dp and boost pipe, fmic and probably meth.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

02TTQuattro said:


> Also I love taking off at redline while 2-stepping.
> Whatd the max power I can make with a hybrid turbo? I'd like to do close to 500 hp.


I would think that it's possible to get 400 AWHP with a hybrid at full tilt (I'm about to find out what they can do soon). What is appealing with the small frame turbos is that you don't have to order your power and sit and wait for it to be delivered. They are also capable of mid 400 WTQ by 3200 rpm and that's what makes a street car fun and usable. 

Unless you're building a drag car or dyno queen and the ultimate number is all that matter to you, I don't see why anyone would attemp to run a GT30 or more with only 1.8L of displacement behind it. The powerband would make it suck and unusable in most situations except the dyno or the strip. Don't do it to yourself, usable powerband for the intended use is what is important, not peak numbers on a peaky curve. :beer:


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## Bago47 (Jul 26, 2012)

If you want to track you car, get the biggest turbo you can. If you want to use the car as a daily driver, get the turbo that spools quickly (I'd suggest you a hybrid turbo if you want to keep your budget low or go GT28 if you're looking for a bit more power).


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

It will be mostly dd car while tearing up these stangs and camaros round here but will take it to VIR snd and the strip some too. Which hybrid would u recomend? Is the GT28 a BT?


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

It will be mostly dd car while tearing up these stangs and camaros round here but will take it to VIR snd and the strip some too. Which hybrid would u recomend? Is the GT28 a BT?


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

02TTQuattro said:


> Ill say this, I'd like to run the 35 instead of the 3976 if I can mainly because of the good deal. Unless someone has a 3976 for around the same price. I say y not get thr bigger tuebo and run it incase I want to go for more later on.


There is nothing to stop you from doing that. However, you'll leave a lot of powerband and potential on the table by doing that.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

02TTQuattro said:


> It will be mostly dd car while tearing up these stangs and camaros round here but will take it to VIR snd and the strip some too. Which hybrid would u recomend? Is the GT28 a BT?


With what you're describing your intended use will be I'd look into a GTX2863 or even the GTX2867. A hybrid that's not fully maxed out, although super fun and responsive, might not be enough turbo to keep up with stangs and camaros in straight line. Both GTX would be 400+ whp capable with good supporting mods and able to spooled by a 1.8 using a smallish hotside. Used parts are plenty to build around a GTX combo and it's fairly simple for a 1.8t, with your limited knowledge I feel you might have a hard time reaching your goals using a hybrid (squeezing all the power out of a small frame require some skills and knowledge).


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> With what you're describing your intended use will be I'd look into a GTX2863 or even the GTX2867. A hybrid that's not fully maxed out, although super fun and responsive, *might not be enough turbo to keep up with stangs and camaros in straight line*. Both GTX would be 400+ whp capable with good supporting mods and able to spooled by a 1.8 using a smallish hotside. Used parts are plenty to build around a GTX combo and it's fairly simple for a 1.8t, with your limited knowledge I feel you might have a hard time reaching your goals using a hybrid (squeezing all the power out of a small frame require some skills and knowledge).


Good advice. However, I used to do quite well spanking LS1 Camaro's with just a K03S in my FWD GTI at the track. :laugh:


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

So which would be better for me hybrid or GT28?


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

02TTQuattro said:


> So which would be better for me hybrid or GT28?


For what you've described, I'd seriously consider the GT*X*28… check out mainstayinc - he's doing quite well with his :thumbup:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

All_Euro said:


> For what you've described, I'd seriously consider the GT*X*28… check out mainstayinc - he's doing quite well with his :thumbup:


Yep, that's what I prescribed too. A GTX2863r would make a responsive turbo that doesn't completely fall flat up top - or the GTX2867r with a small hotside, real tuned cam timing (no VVT gimmick), E85, and AWIC for the short piping response. I think the OP isn't differenciating the the old GT series from the newer GTX offerings.


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

So the hybrid, GTX28R and the GT30R are totallu different beasts? Is the GTX straight bolt on


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

Ok yes I'm dumb and agravating but after ready I see that the GTX is a new style and seems like its basically replacingthe GT turbos . Is there much difference between the GTX2867 and the GTX3071?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

02TTQuattro said:


> Ok yes I'm dumb and agravating but after ready I see that the GTX is a new style and seems like its basically replacingthe GT turbos . Is there much difference between the GTX2867 and the GTX3071?


Yes! The 2867r is at the border line of what's is usable without killing the spool and response of the setup using the stock 1.8l of displacement. Go too generous on the hotside and even a 2867r would need Viagra to wake it up when needed in the streets. GTX30 series and up will give big power up top but isn't a good match for a 1.8L motor. 

Obviously this is all based on my perception of what works or not, and you will find people telling you that there is nothing wrong with waiting for full spool, usable TQ, and some soul, after 5.5k rpm as long as they get that rush for the small remainder of the powerband. Think of it (big snails on small displacement motors like ours) as driving in the street with a Prius with nitrous that can only be activated around 6k rpm. Not fun in my book!


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## Volksdude27 (Nov 25, 2005)

I run a GTX2867 on a 225 TT and I can vouch for that turbo. I ran a 2863 before that and spool difference on the same tune is roughly 200 rpm. ( seeing 28+ psi by 3900 rpm vs 3700 on the 2863 ) . haven't dynoed the setup yet but can tell it rips. I still need to tweak my tune a little tough as I'm sure I can acellerate spool a little and I'm running a tad rich at low rpm. Plus since I have my valvetrain in now a decent intake cam is something I'm considering. And 2 step launch at 5500 altough effin hard on drivetrain is purely awesome!! You should have seen the face of girlfriend first time I did it with her  

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk now Free


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Yep, that's what I prescribed too. A GTX2863r would make a responsive turbo that doesn't completely fall flat up top - or the *GTX2867r with a small hotside*, real tuned cam timing (no VVT gimmick), E85, and AWIC for the short piping response...


I think I'd do as you've suggested and get the 67r with a small hot side - then, if OP strokes the engine or wants a little more top-end he can just switch hot sides.



Volksdude27 said:


> I run a GTX2867 on a 225 TT and I can vouch for that turbo. I ran a 2863 before that and spool difference on the same tune is *roughly 200 rpm.* ( seeing 28+ psi by 3900 rpm vs 3700 on the 2863 ) . haven't dynoed the setup yet but can tell it rips...


Nice that you've run both - great to hear about the spool characteristics! Are you at 1.8L?


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## Volksdude27 (Nov 25, 2005)

All_Euro said:


> Nice that you've run both - great to hear about the spool characteristics! Are you at 1.8L?


 Yup with drop in rods and small port head. Both turbos were on a .64 A/R housing. Almost no signs of loosing breath at high rpm's ( I will look at my maf logs to have numbers backing this )


Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk now Free


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

Where can I get the 67r with a small hot side? What does the smaller hot side do for me?


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

02TTQuattro said:


> Where can I get the 67r with a small hot side? What does the smaller hot side do for me?


Any Garrett vendor, but Arnold @ Pag can take care of you. A smaller hot side, aka a smaller turbine housing, lowers spool point but also limits flow in upper rpms. Bigger delays spool but flows more up top.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

20v master said:


> Good advice. However, I used to do quite well spanking LS1 Camaro's with just a K03S in my FWD GTI at the track. :laugh:


The Camaro has gotten faster since those days 





OP: I would definitely not do a 35R regardless of how cheap on a 1.8L, unless it's a drag car or only hwy monster with not just a built bottom, but built head as well because you will want to rev it (it's a 650hp turbo after all). I ran a 3076R on a 1.8L for many years and made well over 400whp, now I am downgrading to a 3071R from Pagparts, because that will yield the same HP levels with better spool characteristics with the advancement of better A/R and billet wheels etc. Having said that, buy the 35r and sell it to purchase something more fitting for your needs. The hybrid turbo's can provide good HP. Usually, while street driving I would run 20psi which puts me in the 300-350hp range. That was enough to roast all of 1st/2nd and sometimes 3rd gear with a FWD car.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

18T_BT said:


> The Camaro has gotten faster since those days
> 
> 
> 
> ...


No, they were open header and cammed LS1's, they just had non driving tards behind the wheel.


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

Throw a 2.5l with a 5858 cea in it... Nice spool and power.


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

Would a big port head really be worth the money to me? Can I run a big port intake mani on a small port head? How much am I looking at spending on a big port head and rebuild?


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

02TTQuattro said:


> Would a big port head really be worth the money to me? Can I run a big port intake mani on a small port head? How much am I looking at spending on a big port head and rebuild?


Nope - try this if you have a big-port mani though… http://store.034motorsport.com/intake-manifold-spacer-1-8t-phenolic.html


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Forty-six and 2 said:


> Throw a 2.5l with a 5858 cea in it... Nice spool and power.


12v VR6-T > 2.5


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

02TTQuattro said:


> Would a big port head really be worth the money to me? Can I run a big port intake mani on a small port head? How much am I looking at spending on a big port head and rebuild?


This question goes back to the original statement of: Cheap, reliable, fast - choose two.

In order to rebuild an AEB head and do it right you're going to spend over $2k. Big port heads were around in 1998-1999 and by now all have a lot of abuse and miles on them. Pressing in new valve guides is required and then you need the seats cut.

Head: $200-500 depending on what you find and what condition
Aftermarket valve train parts: ~$1400
New lifters ?
Machine work: $700-1000 - depending on what you've got to do


From a budget standpoint I wouldn't place a big port head high on the priority list along with an intake manifold and throttle body. These items you can always add later to make slightly more power but in the grand scheme of things you should be concentrating on a quality FMIC, good exhaust manifold, turbo sized appropriately to your motor and a tune that is spot on so you don't go destroying anything. Of course you need a bottom end that can handle the abuse - along with a clutch.


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## tedgram (Jul 2, 2005)

opcorn:


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

DeckManDubs said:


> 12v VR6-T > 2.5


2.5 is an easier swap, plus lighter on the front end. Looks better too!


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Bago47 said:


> If you want to track you car, get the biggest turbo you can. If you want to use the car as a daily driver, get the turbo that spools quickly (I'd suggest you a hybrid turbo if you want to keep your budget low or go GT28 if you're looking for a bit more power).


GTX28 would be the best compromise. But in my experience the money can be put elsewhere to make the car faster and reliable with the stock K04.



Forty-six and 2 said:


> 2.5 is an easier swap, plus lighter on the front end. Looks better too!


Easier is out for debate. Still need standalone to run correctly, which for a VR6 is way cheaper and more perfected than the 2.5. Yes the 2.5 is a tad lighter, but I am not convinced it is as tough as a 12v. 

But for a road race / DE car, the stock K04 is pretty much the best bet. Reliability is key when going down this road. Consumables such as brakes, tires, C16 and entry fee's get expensive quick. 

To give you an example, so far this season I have used, 2 sets of rotors and pads on the front, 7 oil changes, 7 sets of spark plugs, 2 coolant flushes, 75% of my R-comps, 100 gallons of C16 and 2 alignments.

Broken wore out parts were wheel bearings, one set of strut mounts/ball joints/tie rods.

Overall the 1.8t with the K04 makes an awesome track package even for straight line power. The money spent on upgrading the turbo is much better spent on entry fee's and tires to dial in your driving skill. There is the wall with the TT, which I have pretty much hit, but without making the car unreliable for street use. It still has AC, radio, heated seats, back seat and with snow tires can be driven in the winter without issue. In order to go faster requires cage/seats/full slicks and more power which will also requires rods. But this will take away from a nearly perfected setup with the perfect blend of speed and comfort. 


Best advise I can provide is to keep as OEM as possible to make any repairs easy. BT repairs often take months, which if your booked up for a bunch of events will cause you to stress out trying to get everything back together only to have it break at the track...at which point you will be very


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

An R32 trans would be needed for the Vr, while the 2.5's bell housing is the same as the 1.8t. That means the axles can be reused as well. The passenger side mounting bracket works with our engine mount placement and frame mounting points. A wire harness from a beetle is a direct swap, so splicing is unnecessary. I'm not sure of this, but I'd imagine maestro would be an option for management.

A low mileage 2.5 can be had for $500-700 to your door. I will mostly likely be paying for one Friday. $550 shipped with only 7k on it. On stock internals a touch over 400 whp was made with no issues. With the extra cylinder, it should spool a 5858 nearly as well as 1.8 can spool the k04. To me that is a winning combo. Price wise, and the added benefits of the extra cylinder. Put some extra money into block and head, and it will be hard to beat!

That is atleast what I have on my winter list. I personally believe it's a solid choice. :beer:


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

With a BT would I gain anything using an aftermarker big port intake mani and hemi TB? Would it hurt anything?


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

02TTQuattro said:


> With a BT would I gain anything using an aftermarker big port intake mani and hemi TB? Would it hurt anything?


Yes. And no. How much is dependent on many variables. :beer:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Forty-six and 2 said:


> An R32 trans would be needed for the Vr, while the 2.5's bell housing is the same as the 1.8t. That means the axles can be reused as well. The passenger side mounting bracket works with our engine mount placement and frame mounting points. A wire harness from a beetle is a direct swap, so splicing is unnecessary. I'm not sure of this, but I'd imagine maestro would be an option for management.
> 
> A low mileage 2.5 can be had for $500-700 to your door. I will mostly likely be paying for one Friday. $550 shipped with only 7k on it. On stock internals a touch over 400 whp was made with no issues. With the extra cylinder, it should spool a 5858 nearly as well as 1.8 can spool the k04. To me that is a winning combo. Price wise, and the added benefits of the extra cylinder. Put some extra money into block and head, and it will be hard to beat!
> 
> That is atleast what I have on my winter list. I personally believe it's a solid choice. :beer:


I was going to go with the 2.5L as well about 3-4 years ago before going BT 1.8T. The only issue was software for me. Eurodyne doesn't have software for that motor currently (to my knowledge) and the only thing out at the time was C2 garbage that made barely any power. Standalone was the only option I saw and that means not passing NYS emissions for me.

Maestro software listing: http://www.eurodyne.ca/prestashop/product.php?id_product=31


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

So a lot of people have told me I would be fine keeping my K04 and doing exhaust, DP, FDIC, tune. What kind of power outputs can i expect with all that maxing out the k04.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Depends max is making over 300 tq and hp at the wheels on one but was running w/m. I would say you could get 300 range no problem on the k04. Apr advertises 265 with their program

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

1fast2liter said:


> Depends max is making over 300 tq and hp at the wheels on one but was running w/m. I would say you could get 300 range no problem on the k04. Apr advertises 265 with their program
> 
> reply typed by trained monkeys


299awtq here on 21psi :thumbup:


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

That's a good number fir a small Gabe turbo. I bet it moves right from the get go

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

Ok, so I have figured some things out. Please tell me if this will work.
3071r turbo. $800
Tubular manifold. $300
Tial WG. $150
Custom IC and piping $400
Custom DP $400
AWP ECU/w Eurodyne Maestro MAFless Immo defete $850
Race line Wideband conversion $150
Wideband O2 sensors $100
HKS BOV $150
630 cc injectors. $250
Coolant and oil lines $100
All gaskets. $100
80mm throttle body $150
Large Port IM. $400


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

02TTQuattro said:


> Ok, so I have figured some things out. Please tell me if this will work.
> 3071r turbo. $800
> Tubular manifold. $300
> Tial WG. $150
> ...


You might want to put a fuel pump in this list :thumbup:


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

Which one of these do I need?

1. http://pagparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=83_112_117&products_id=441

2. http://pagparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=83_112_117&products_id=439

3. http://pagparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=83_112_117&products_id=440


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

> You might want to put a fuel pump in this list*


Thanks forgot that one.


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

What I really need to know is what length oil feed & return lines and angles, coolant lines length and angles (is there a coolant return line? What length), any other fittings or lines? I'm gussing nuts and bolts for mani to turbo and turbo to DP. Gaskets: Mani to turbo, turbo to DP. Any other things?


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Who is making this tubular manifold for $300?


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

Its used.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

02TTQuattro said:


> Its used.


So who was it made by originally?


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

Looks like your starting to hit the pre-packaged price to get you on the go and you can add addons when $ comes in.
Steve


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

02TTQuattro said:


> What I really need to know is what length oil feed & return lines and angles, coolant lines length and angles (is there a coolant return line? What length), any other fittings or lines? I'm gussing nuts and bolts for mani to turbo and turbo to DP. Gaskets: Mani to turbo, turbo to DP. Any other things?


If you are ordering the fittings from Pag, he can set you up with completed lines. Just tell him what you need. I'd be weary of a $300 used tubular manifold. Is the $800 3071 used too?


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

Yea but I see I can get a new GTX3076r for like $1k.


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

What kind of numbers can I get out of a GT2871r with tubular mani and everything?


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## 02TTQuattro (Feb 21, 2013)

Anyone know my possible power outputs:

GT2871r
Top mount tubular manifold
3" exhaust and DP
FMIC
830cc injectors
Eurodyne Maestro
Big Port Intake Mani
80mm throttle body
Inline fuel pump
Rods

Any guesses on WHP?

Also, if I go big port head with intake cam later, how much more can I gain?

I need to know soon, In between a 2871r and a 3071r. If I can get close to 500 WHP with the 2871r then I will do that because of the less lag.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

I don't think you're going to see 500whp with a 28R unless you run race gas or e85 on a 2.0L running lots of timing and boost.

I haven't owned a 28R but from what I've seen they make between 300-400fwhp on pump gas.

For my car to pass the 500awhp mark I ran ~34psi of boost on a turbo sized between a GT30 & GT35.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Doug - you were being too nice. I don't care what baby jesus race gas you run, you won't reach 500whp with any 4cyl VAG car on a 28r, period. 

Ask yourself this simple question, are you after a certain WHP # or what do you specifically looking for out of your set up? Is this a hwy moster with DD duty mostly? Is this going to see any track time (then you definitely don't want 500whp)? Is this going to see occasional drag racing only? Your build should start with answering those type of questions before you commit to purchasing parts.


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