# Downpipe for ttrs



## Ginovega (Jul 22, 2013)

Hey TTRS owners has anybody installed a Wagner tuning downpipe kit? Or a 034 Motorsports downpipe? 
I just a little bit of info on what to get for my car. Any issue on installation, etc? Need help from pros.:wave:


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## Fined (Sep 3, 2013)

The only kinda "pro" I am is a pro-crastinator. So I'm not sure if I should weigh in here but.. I had an 034 Motorsports catless downpipe installed on my car about 3 weeks ago. Install went smoothly. I know that the driveshaft was taken off the car. I did it myself on my TTS but I didn't care to do it on my RS. 

I did not purchase or install an oxygen sensor spacer and my car has not thrown any codes. 

I test fit the system of downpipe and midpipes together in my living room and the fit was very nice. Welds were nice also. 

The car has a little deeper growl but not nearly as noticeable as the downpipe I put on my TTS from 42 Draft Design.


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## ROLDGOLD (Dec 20, 2013)

Ginovega said:


> Hey TTRS owners has anybody installed a Wagner tuning downpipe kit? Or a 034 Motorsports downpipe?
> I just a little bit of info on what to get for my car. Any issue on installation, etc? Need help from pros.:wave:


i had the 034 DP installed last week on my TTRS. I also had the 034 dogbone billet mount and density line tranny mounts installed as well. The DP def make a sound and feel difference... and as for the mounts... the car has completely been transformed. No more drivetrain slop. Furthermore... car has lost its comfort... feels AND vibrates like a race car at lower end of the rev... but once it gets going, it's all good. If you are going to do the DP, i suggest an ECU FLASH to advantage and unleash full potential of vehicle (pre-stage 3).


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## Ginovega (Jul 22, 2013)

ROLDGOLD said:


> i had the 034 DP installed last week on my TTRS. I also had the 034 dogbone billet mount and density line tranny mounts installed as well. The DP def make a sound and feel difference... and as for the mounts... the car has completely been transformed. No more drivetrain slop. Furthermore... car has lost its comfort... feels AND vibrates like a race car at lower end of the rev... but once it gets going, it's all good. If you are going to do the DP, i suggest an ECU FLASH to advantage and unleash full potential of vehicle (pre-stage 3).


Thanks for the info. I know 034 has a good downpipe paired with mid pipes . I was thinking about going all the way and get the Milltek race exhaust since there is no restrictions here South Carolina but I'm skeptical that it might be loud all the time even when your cruising.


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## ROLDGOLD (Dec 20, 2013)

Ginovega said:


> Thanks for the info. I know 034 has a good downpipe paired with mid pipes . I was thinking about going all the way and get the Milltek race exhaust since there is no restrictions here South Carolina but I'm skeptical that it might be loud all the time even when your cruising.


without a doubt it is a bit louder, but a pleasurable experience if you are into that sort of thing. i am running...

034 DP ---> AWE Test Pipes ---> AWE Switchpath exhaust. 

The Switchpath offers you a toned-down sound or straight dump.


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## as350 (Nov 8, 2011)

I'm installing a 034 downpipe next week. I had it ceramic coated. I already run 034 straight pipes and a Borla exhaust. The sound is heavenly


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## CarbonRS (Jul 15, 2013)

Any reason to go for the 034 down pipe + mid pipes when the APR downpipe is cheaper and also replaces the mid pipes? I doubt there is a performance difference, so what makes the 034 worth it?


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## ROLDGOLD (Dec 20, 2013)

carbonrs said:


> any reason to go for the 034 down pipe + mid pipes when the apr downpipe is cheaper and also replaces the mid pipes? I doubt there is a performance difference, so what makes the 034 worth it?


wow... Apr's went on sale... 034 just came off sale. There is a difference... Look and see for yourself at the design. Apr's tapers sooner and is a single pipe, while 034's is split into dual. In my opinion, dual offers more flow or dump than a straight pipe. I guess it's all splitting hairs... But i got the 034 dp during their sale. Email them... I am sure you can work out a deal w them if you get a few items.


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## CarbonRS (Jul 15, 2013)

ROLDGOLD said:


> wow... Apr's went on sale... 034 just came off sale. There is a difference... Look and see for yourself at the design. Apr's tapers sooner and is a single pipe, while 034's is split into dual. In my opinion, dual offers more flow or dump than a straight pipe. I guess it's all splitting hairs... But i got the 034 dp during their sale. Email them... I am sure you can work out a deal w them if you get a few items.


Yea, from what I can tell, the APR replaces the down pipe and mid pipes, and also adds a 200 cell cat for $787. Compared to buying the 034 down pipe $925 + mid pipes $330 + $$ if you want a high flow cat.


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## lpriley32 (Jul 28, 2012)

ROLDGOLD said:


> wow... Apr's went on sale... 034 just came off sale. There is a difference... Look and see for yourself at the design. Apr's tapers sooner and is a single pipe, while 034's is split into dual. In my opinion, dual offers more flow or dump than a straight pipe. I guess it's all splitting hairs... But i got the 034 dp during their sale. Email them... I am sure you can work out a deal w them if you get a few items.


i never really understood this. I mean the entire system bottlenecks into one pipe before it goes into the muffler so is running two pipes all the way to that bottleneck any more efficient than just running one pipe all the way back? I am by no means an engineer so I don't really have a clue...it just doesn't seem logical that running two pipes back to a bottleneck would be any more efficient than running one pipe all the way back. If it had two pipes all the way back and two mufflers and two exits then I could see running two pipes all the way making a difference.


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## CarbonRS (Jul 15, 2013)

It was an expensive way to design the system and compromises by going back to a single pipe for a cheaper muffler design and single exhaust flap. I'd assume the design was chosen for getting the most flow through the secondary cats to help the little turbo in the high RPM range, while being designed in a package that didn't affect ground clearance. Piping diameter isn't the problem, fighting restrictive cats while keeping emissions in check is where the restriction comes from. These things are all flow tested to death and they would never waste metal and add weight unless they absolutely had to. Other times this is done to create a desirable exhaust note. If you hollowed out your cats, it would perform as well or better than any aftermarket design exhaust which are almost never flow tested and just eyeballed to look good.

Anyway, since the cats are removed, APR's design decisions make a lot of sense to me.


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## JohnLZ7W (Nov 23, 2003)

lpriley32 said:


> i never really understood this. I mean the entire system bottlenecks into one pipe before it goes into the muffler so is running two pipes all the way to that bottleneck any more efficient than just running one pipe all the way back? I am by no means an engineer so I don't really have a clue...it just doesn't seem logical that running two pipes back to a bottleneck would be any more efficient than running one pipe all the way back. If it had two pipes all the way back and two mufflers and two exits then I could see running two pipes all the way making a difference.


I think the point is that restrictions closer to the turbo when the exhaust gases are hotter and moving at higher velocity are more important than restrictions back towards the muffler when the gas has cooled and slowed down.

The total surface area available by running two pipes may be larger than what you can run with a single pipe solution due to the available space to run the pipe through. With the TTRS the downpipe needs to make a 90^ turn from the turbo to aim towards the back of the car and then the pipe has to fit between the body above, the subframe and steering rack below and also not interfere with the driveshaft that occupies the same space.

The 034 solution also provides a more modular arrangement for people that want to maintain the stock exhaust since it bolts up to the stock midpipes.


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## the1mancircus (Aug 11, 2019)

*Wagner Downpipe Fitment Issues - Don't buy! Buy APR instead! Livid!*

Recently bought a Wagner downpipe for 2013 Audi TTRS.

Had it installed by THE reputable shop in town, drove it for a few days and thee downpipe started rubbing on the drive shaft.

Called Wagner - they don't care, "send us a few pictures and we'll get with our engineers."

Cool, guess what I don't give a ****. I spent $2k with install on this thing and they give zero ****s that their part doesn't fit. 

Unbelievable that they're not more willing to help in a situation where their part doesn't fit. 

Moral of the story - DON'T BUY WAGNERS DOWNPIPE BUY APR.

Wagner, I was going to buy your intercooler, think I'll pass after your piss poor customer service.


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## caj1 (Feb 16, 1999)

the1mancircus said:


> Recently bought a Wagner downpipe for 2013 Audi TTRS.
> 
> Had it installed by THE reputable shop in town, drove it for a few days and thee downpipe started rubbing on the drive shaft.
> 
> ...


EXACT same thing happened to me. If your TT RS was built after 1/10/12, you have a revised drive shaft part which is apparently larger in diameter and allows for only a couple mm of clearance. 

DO NOT BUY! Wagner does not admit fault. My downpipe was installed by NGP - highly reputable shop. I'm going wide with this.


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## VRPISSED (Jan 7, 2005)

caj1 said:


> EXACT same thing happened to me. If your TT RS was built after 1/10/12, you have a revised drive shaft part which is apparently larger in diameter and allows for only a couple mm of clearance.
> 
> DO NOT BUY! Wagner does not admit fault. My downpipe was installed by NGP - highly reputable shop. I'm going wide with this.


Come one guys, your dealing with England. They dont care as much as the Chinese :facepalm:

My car came with the very very poor quality O34 DP, and it was rubbing all over the place. When I took it out to install a cat, I noticed they DIDN'T even back purge any of their welds.:thumbdown: Just typical oo: I ended up cutting it up, making it fit and back purging everything, and just going over the welds again. When your dealing with an aftermarket part, the "reputable" folks are the ones responsible for getting the job sorted right, with lock washers:facepalm:, and back purging:facepalm: - the first time. After re-positioning everything, I have no rubbing issues of any kind. I'm sure even as nice as they say, the APR part is, I'm sure if a gumball installed it, it too would rub.


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## robotvoice (Apr 7, 2014)

Has anybody had any experience with this downpipe from Redstar Exhaust or any of their other products? I've never heard of them but the downpipe looks like a pretty nice piece and similar in style to the APR downpipe for the TTRS.

http://redstarexhaust.com/product/audi-rs3-8p-ttrs-8j-2-5-tfsi-downpipe


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## robotvoice (Apr 7, 2014)

For the 2 or 3 people who use this site still....I did wind up picking up a downpipe from Redstar Exhaust and have been very impressed so far. Fitment was spot on and the build quality of the downpipe looks top notch. Only downside is shipping from Europe takes a while, especially with COVID causing extra delays.


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## 9sec (Jun 12, 2021)

robotvoice said:


> For the 2 or 3 people who use this site still....I did wind up picking up a downpipe from Redstar Exhaust and have been very impressed so far. Fitment was spot on and the build quality of the downpipe looks top notch. Only downside is shipping from Europe takes a while, especially with COVID causing extra delays.


can you tell what the total cost was delivered? im trying to decide between store bought or custom 3.5" d/p and single mid pipe


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## robotvoice (Apr 7, 2014)

9sec said:


> can you tell what the total cost was delivered? im trying to decide between store bought or custom 3.5" d/p and single mid pipe


Shipping was like $25, just took a while to get here from Europe. This was like over a year ago so their prices may be different from when I picked it up. If you reach out to them they are very responsive and helpful.


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## ChatWithaNinja (Aug 14, 2021)

So looking at the picture for the DP from Red Star Exhaust, it seems that its a single tube downpipe instead of the dual tubes that go around the driveshaft?
Or is that just a stock picture and the actual DP is dual pipes going around the driveshaft?

Thanks for finding one, I'm in the market


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## robotvoice (Apr 7, 2014)

ChatWithaNinja said:


> So looking at the picture for the DP from Red Star Exhaust, it seems that its a single tube downpipe instead of the dual tubes that go around the driveshaft?
> Or is that just a stock picture and the actual DP is dual pipes going around the driveshaft?
> 
> Thanks for finding one, I'm in the market


The picture is correct. The downpipe style is similar to the APR downpipe that is a single tube that goes down past the driveshaft and then splits out into two tubes to connect back to the stock catback.


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## 9sec (Jun 12, 2021)

robotvoice said:


> Shipping was like $25, just took a while to get here from Europe. This was like over a year ago so their prices may be different from when I picked it up. If you reach out to them they are very responsive and helpful.


purchased a setup today. luckily they had a setup already built so they are heat shielding not and shipping it Monday. hope to have it in 7-10 days. did you do the install? any tips on driveshaft removal and getting the oem d/p out?


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## robotvoice (Apr 7, 2014)

9sec said:


> purchased a setup today. luckily they had a setup already built so they are heat shielding not and shipping it Monday. hope to have it in 7-10 days. did you do the install? any tips on driveshaft removal and getting the oem d/p out?


I cheated and swapped my downpipe when I had my turbo out so I didn't wind up needing to remove the drive shaft. It looks to be a 2 person job though and you want to make sure not to bend the driveshaft at the joints too much or you can cause damage. There's also a driveshaft removal tool that a few places sell to help get it removed from the car.


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## 9sec (Jun 12, 2021)

robotvoice said:


> I cheated and swapped my downpipe when I had my turbo out so I didn't wind up needing to remove the drive shaft. It looks to be a 2 person job though and you want to make sure not to bend the driveshaft at the joints too much or you can cause damage. There's also a driveshaft removal tool that a few places sell to help get it removed from the car.


I ordered the tool so that should help. ill mark the front and back to keep the orientation correct and drop it out. trying to avoid removing the subframe


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## davemarco (Apr 8, 2021)

Is it possible to disable the CEL from installing this downpipe using Vagcom, or is tuning the only way?


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## 9sec (Jun 12, 2021)

davemarco said:


> Is it possible to disable the CEL from installing this downpipe using Vagcom, or is tuning the only way?


you have to tune the code out or disable the post o2 sensor from reading to keep the light off the dash. then you wont pass emissions if you have to. I used a simple o2 fouler to move the post o2 out of the exhaust stream and filled it with steel wool to reduce the amount of exhaust it reads. took a few tries to get the amount of steelwool to keep a light from popping but in the end I have no cats , no lights and car would pass emissions obd11 testing.


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