# ENGINE FLUSH LIQUI MOLY Motor Clean



## RoloGTI (Sep 7, 2008)

Hi,
Does the Engine Flush, made by Liqui Moly makes it's job in a GTI with about 70k miles?
http://www.liqui-moly.com/liqu....html
Is there any danger of breaking some internal part (seals, gaskets, etc)?
The instructions says that the Engine Flush should be mixed with the oil, and then leave the engine running for about 10 minutes. After the 10 minutes, shut down the car and make the normal oil change (oil + filter).
I usually change oil and filter every 3000 or 3200 miles and I use the Liqui Moly GT1 Race Tech 10W60.
For all the advice, thank's


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## saaber2 (Jul 15, 2008)

*Re: ENGINE FLUSH LIQUI MOLY Motor Clean (RoloGTI)*

A lot of people, including myself, see risk in chemical flushes. The risk is that you spall off larger chunks of sludge which can clog oil passages. I have heard first hand from some people that chemical flushes ruined their motor. That doesn't mean it Will ruin your motor, just that there is risk.
I think it is safer to use auto-rx which slowly removes sludge, carbon, and other deposits over many thousands of miles. i have used it in two cars with very visible success. You can see the sludge and carbon gradually being reduced. It works and has withstood intense real-user scrutiny on the Bob is the oil guy forum. Some users have posted their before and after engine compression numbers and it is a pretty dramatic change.
The basic idea is remove it slowly over time rather than in 10 minutes.


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## RoloGTI (Sep 7, 2008)

*Re: ENGINE FLUSH LIQUI MOLY Motor Clean (saaber2)*

That's the same risk that I see.
What is auto-rx (I had never hear about ir), brands to search it?
How should it be used?
Does it have some restrictions on the usea of the car while it's used?
Thank's a lot


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## slayerrule (Feb 20, 2006)

i personally never used it, didnt feel like i needed it but heres the site http://www.auto-rx.com


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## AZV6 (May 3, 2006)

*Re: ENGINE FLUSH LIQUI MOLY Motor Clean (RoloGTI)*

All additives are no good. 
I would not add anything. What makes you think you even need it?
First off I would dump the race oul for volliesynth or any of their 100% synthetic oils. change your oil and filter at 10K miles. What a waste of money changing it at 3K. 
The oils of today do not need to be changed at 3K intervals.
Your making them rich for no reason. If you change at 3K there is no need for an engine flush. Stay away from those additives.
Jason


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## RoloGTI (Sep 7, 2008)

*Re: ENGINE FLUSH LIQUI MOLY Motor Clean (AZV6)*

Actually, i change the oil every 3k or 3.3k because at that mileage, the oil level is under the 1 half (at about 2k I put in the other 0.5 lt that is left in the bottle), service manual recomends to change it at about 4.4 or 4.5k
The reason why i do this:
1) the oil is in a 5 lt can, they don't sell any other
2)i drive fast, really fast, so my oil consumption is higher
3) the roads that i drive some are really dirty (and i don't trust 100% in the K&N filter in this roads)
4)Maybe the most important..i'm a bit PARANOIC about oil changes
The reason to make the engine flush is just to be sure that the internals of the engine are clean...and mostly the lubrication line of the turbo.


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## AZV6 (May 3, 2006)

*Re: ENGINE FLUSH LIQUI MOLY Motor Clean (RoloGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RoloGTI* »_Actually, i change the oil every 3k or 3.3k because at that mileage, the oil level is under the 1 half (at about 2k I put in the other 0.5 lt that is left in the bottle), service manual recomends to change it at about 4.4 or 4.5k
The reason why i do this:
1) the oil is in a 5 lt can, they don't sell any other
2)i drive fast, really fast, so my oil consumption is higher
3) the roads that i drive some are really dirty (and i don't trust 100% in the K&N filter in this roads)
4)Maybe the most important..i'm a bit PARANOIC about oil changes
The reason to make the engine flush is just to be sure that the internals of the engine are clean...and mostly the lubrication line of the turbo.


Sorry but it still does not make any sense.
5ltr containers?? What does that have to do with change intervals?
Fast driving? Ok, so change the oil at 7-8K miles instead. But honestly how long of a duration of fast driving do you do?
K&N is crap. My suggestion, use OEM filter. Cheaper than replacing an engine or Turbo.
Using Lubro-Moly full synthetic can be changed @ 10K miles regardless of abuse the motor gets. Your not doing 150MPH consistently. If you are your writing this from jail.
Like I said the oils these days especially European oil can take a lot of abuse. It is made to handle even racing conditions.
Save your money, buy an OEM paper filter, change at every oil [email protected] miles and be worry free,
Buy an extra 5ltr bottle and top off when needed. What can your oil consumption be? 1/2 ltr every 1000 miles? Not a big deal. Just top it off. 
The additive and detergents will suspend any contaminants and then be trapped in the filter. The cheaper way to go if your paranoid is to change the filter at 5k miles w a liter of oil to top off. 
But again just follow the schedule and Use a paper filter. I do not understand why people use K&N or any performance filter, there are no gains to them and their filtering capability is terrible. Plus the turbo sucks the oils off the filter media very quickly thus leaving your filter with gaping holes to bring in dirt,. That would be more of a concern of the oil to me. Bye bye turbo, hello cylinder wall wear and hello blow by!
Jason


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## RoloGTI (Sep 7, 2008)

*Re: ENGINE FLUSH LIQUI MOLY Motor Clean (AZV6)*

I agree with your point, the reason why i do these changes are the following:
(i'll answer your questions)
1) Do i drive fast?, YES, on my way to work and back home, speed? usually 120mph almost all the way (about 22 miles of highway of really low traffic), and for 1 or 2 minutes about 140 - 150 MPH
2) The reason for change the oil is why buy another can of 5 liters just to refill, I rather like to change the oil and use 4.5 liters and a new filter (maybe here i'm paranoic)
3)I bought the K&N because with the mileage that i do (and the price of the OEM filter here, about US$60)
4)I agree with the idea of going back to OEM filter, actually i'm selling mine








5)About 1 a month or once every month and a half, I do some laps at the local track
Because all of that, I feel I should change the oil in shorter terms than the service schedule says, but I have to say that i know a lot about some engine topic, but on oils, i'm not the right person to ask, so after these facts, do you still recomend to make longer oil changes? 
I have read that the Race Tech GT1 is a great oil (in the past I use the Castrol RS), but it dosen't have really good washing properties (that was why i was asking about the engine flush)
Thank's for your help!


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## AZV6 (May 3, 2006)

*Re: ENGINE FLUSH LIQUI MOLY Motor Clean (RoloGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RoloGTI* »_I agree with your point, the reason why i do these changes are the following:
(i'll answer your questions)
1) Do i drive fast?, YES, on my way to work and back home, speed? usually 120mph almost all the way (about 22 miles of highway of really low traffic), and for 1 or 2 minutes about 140 - 150 MPH
2) The reason for change the oil is why buy another can of 5 liters just to refill, I rather like to change the oil and use 4.5 liters and a new filter (maybe here i'm paranoic)
3)I bought the K&N because with the mileage that i do (and the price of the OEM filter here, about US$60)
4)I agree with the idea of going back to OEM filter, actually i'm selling mine








5)About 1 a month or once every month and a half, I do some laps at the local track
Because all of that, I feel I should change the oil in shorter terms than the service schedule says, but I have to say that i know a lot about some engine topic, but on oils, i'm not the right person to ask, so after these facts, do you still recomend to make longer oil changes? 
I have read that the Race Tech GT1 is a great oil (in the past I use the Castrol RS), but it dosen't have really good washing properties (that was why i was asking about the engine flush)
Thank's for your help!

You should still be fine with 10K mile oil changes. A lot of Europeans run the same. 120+MPH back and forth to work on the Autobahn. That is essentially what most of these oils need to conform to. Some intervals are longer and it is not uncommon to change at 15-20K miles.
Trust me. Your oil will be just fine. Buy an extra 5 ltr container, trust me again, you can use it for several oil intervals. You buy it once and use to top off many many times. When you change your oil buy what you need and always keep the top off oil in the car or garage. You will forget you even bought it after awhile.
I am telling you, the paper filter even if $100USd is much better at filtering than the K&N. That is CHEAP insurance over a new turbo or motor. 
Your killing your turbo and motor not to mention a few other things a well, like you MAF.
I would still change at the scheduled interval....really!!!!
It is not worth changing it that soon. A little track time or 120MPH for 22 miles is not a reason to change sooner. 
I would not recommend RACE OIL, it does not have the detergents and additive packages that your standard Engine oil has. I would not bother spending the money on oil like that your using a superior oil, keep using it and change @10K. Change that filter out too. Your will not regret it. 
There are reasons for the scheduled maintenance and specific approved oils. The engineers designed them that way. Trust me they know some owners will drive at high speeds, it is common. But they do not specify race oils nor do they specify you should change sooner than 10K miles. 
Non of us here on this site are smarter than the engineers. 
Use what is recommended plain and simple. This will ensure long life of your vehicle. I never stray from OEM spec's, I see too many problems when you do. 
Some here or on other forums will say this is the best and this is the best and so forth. Most have no real world experience with oils nor vehicles. Owning vehicles and a alfa romeo service/parts business for 20+ years with proper training will teach you much more than guessing. Advertising and talk are cheap. 
If a manufacturer says to use 502 approved oil 5w-40 or 5w-30, with intervals of 10K miles, then do it. 
If there is a VW recommendation for race purposes to use a 10w-40, then you can do so. 
Alfa Romeo for example recommends Alfa Selenia oil 10W-40 with all our 3.0L, 3.2L 24V V6 engines, But for RACE purposes you can use 20W-60 (not race OIL, synthetic street engine oil).
I again would not stray from the recommended oil/weight/interval.
Hope that helps. Your car I am sure cost you a lot and gets you to and from your work and many other places. Sucks to have to spend tons of money on it for bad decisions not to follow the manual. 
I am sure you get it now. I am just trying to help. I made some bad decisions when i was a youngster.








Hope my bad decisions can help you make the right ones.
Jason

Thanks


_Modified by AZV6 at 7:18 PM 9-25-2008_


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## RoloGTI (Sep 7, 2008)

*Re: ENGINE FLUSH LIQUI MOLY Motor Clean (AZV6)*

Thank's Jason...
Just a question to be sure.. i have always use the Castrol RS 10W60.
The Castrol RS 10W60 is no longer sold here, so i've change to the oil that has the same "specs", after some search, i've found the Liqui Moly Race Tech GT1 10W60
http://www.liqui-moly.com/liqu....html
This is a race spec oil or a "normal" spec oil for hard use???
Should i change to another oil?
Thank's again Jason
P.S: I'll change my oil every 4680 miles (7500km) as the service book says


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## saaber2 (Jul 15, 2008)

*Re: ENGINE FLUSH LIQUI MOLY Motor Clean (RoloGTI)*

Why are you using a 60 weight in a gti?????


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## AZV6 (May 3, 2006)

*Re: ENGINE FLUSH LIQUI MOLY Motor Clean (RoloGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RoloGTI* »_Thank's Jason...
Just a question to be sure.. i have always use the Castrol RS 10W60.
The Castrol RS 10W60 is no longer sold here, so i've change to the oil that has the same "specs", after some search, i've found the Liqui Moly Race Tech GT1 10W60
http://www.liqui-moly.com/liqu....html
This is a race spec oil or a "normal" spec oil for hard use???
Should i change to another oil?
Thank's again Jason
P.S: I'll change my oil every 4680 miles (7500km) as the service book says

I would not use 60 weight oil. The tolerances are too small on these VW motors. That thick of oil cannot lubricate bearings well unless you have excessive wear.
Do not use it. 
My suggestions:
Lubro-Moly Synthoil High Tech 5 W-40
Or the best thing to use is this:








SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL 5W40 1L
Fully Synthetic Motor Oil 1 Liter Energy conserving Fuel Economy motor oil for the latest engine concepts both gas and diesel, such as multi-valve arrangements, variable cam and timing configurations, turbo charging, intercooling, etc. Saves fuel, provides instant lubrication after a cold start. Good for extended oil change intervals and highest demands. With approvals from BMW, Porsche, VW-Audi. 
PENTOSIN HIGH PERFORMANCE- 5w-40








Pento High Performance 5W-40 is an especially formulated fuel economy engine oil. It is based on synthetic base oils only, the most modern and best engine oil additives currently available and a very shear stable VI - Improver. The combination of these exquisite components guarantees an excellent engine performance under the most severe driving conditions.
Pento High Performance 5W-40 is ideally suited as an all season engine oil.
Pento High Performance 5W-40 contains a special combination of very efficient fric-tion modifiers which cause the engine to run very smoothly. Even more important, it causes fuel savings in a recognizable way.
Available in ltr cans. Yeah!
I would only use this weight oil. REALLY. With 100% synthetic oil by one of these manufc. you do not need a heavy weight. 
If your service books says to change every 7500 KM, then that is fine. I think you can stretch it with one of the oils above a bit longer to 8000Km easily!!! Really! you Can.
60 weight is too heavy. Your going to get better performance from a 40 weight oil. I bet you have Better performance, better lubrication, better MPG. First time you use it you will be surprised. I am sure of it. It will be a quicker responding motor. 60 weight makes is sluggish and 100% synthetic 60 weight will not thin out, so it will stay heavy if you will. 
40 weight in the above oils will not thin out either but you need the lower weight to lubricate properly.
Your asking for trouble with the heavy weight.
Jason


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## saaber2 (Jul 15, 2008)

*Re: ENGINE FLUSH LIQUI MOLY Motor Clean (AZV6)*

I also wonder what kind of oil pressure a 60 weight in a gti would make? Doug Hillary on BITOG recently posted about using too thick of an oil causing oil to bypass the filter. Hadn't thought of that but it it makes sense and is another possible risk. I don't think I would want to experiment with that one too much. 
There aren't that many street engines out there built for 60 weight oils. I can recall a BMW (can't remember which one, old m5 maybe?) and I think Ferrari that was speced for that oil but that is awfully thick for a car speced for a 30 or 40 weight.


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## RoloGTI (Sep 7, 2008)

*Re: ENGINE FLUSH LIQUI MOLY Motor Clean (saaber2)*

Thank's!!!
I'll try one of those oils and I'll tell you about any changes.
Thank's again for all the advice.


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## AZV6 (May 3, 2006)

*Re: ENGINE FLUSH LIQUI MOLY Motor Clean (RoloGTI)*

There will be. You will see the difference and will be protecting your motor much better.
Glad you decided to change it.
Race oil is for just that, race engines. I do not recommend it in street vehicles.
Most "race" products really make no sense on a street car even if going 125mph for 20 miles a day. It is not needed.
Stick with street oil as you have and your much better off.
Race does not = Better.


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## That Gli (Jan 4, 2021)

AZV6 said:


> *Re: ENGINE FLUSH LIQUI MOLY Motor Clean (RoloGTI)*
> 
> 
> _Quote, originally posted by *RoloGTI* »_Actually, i change the oil every 3k or 3.3k because at that mileage, the oil level is under the 1 half (at about 2k I put in the other 0.5 lt that is left in the bottle), service manual recomends to change it at about 4.4 or 4.5k
> ...


your 10k oil change advice is killing me. this is the reason people’s engines don’t last even 110k.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

A major effort on this subject has already been done in a German forum: Schleichende Längung der Steuerkette beim Audi A3 VR6 3.2 Liter Motor - wcf.page.pageNo - Rund um Steuerkettenlängung und Longlifeintervalle - Der Audi A3 3.2 quattro, das größte Audi A3 Forum des 250PS starken Audi A3 VR6 3.2 + S3/RS3
You need to speak German to read it, unfortunately! 

But, if you read this thread Why the 3.2 platform chains stretch... or do they? The truth is out there!

You will get really good info on on 3 things: chain "stretch," the "Long-Life" oil regime, and the benefit of engine flushes. 

The people at a3quattroforum.de have experience with the Long-Life oil regime, and have experience with it being a wonderful way to gum up the internals of a VR6! They have used an oil flush regime to restore engines to "well-oiled" machines without opening the engine. Sometimes the flush has to be done multiple times, but it usually works quite well.

A section of the clubgti.com post: 

"As is known faulty cam phase sensors cause spurious readings. However a surprising point to note is that high values are not always indicative of worn guides or a stretched chain! There have been instances in Germany whereby poor service intervals (Longlife) has gummed up the cam variators/VVT assemblies/solenoids resulting in high values that’s clearly appeared to be worn chains but after several oil flushes and filter changes returned to almost perfect ‘out the factory’ values. There appears to be some correlation between the intercam timing spread and the intermediate shaft values that points to this; if I can find the original page I’ll save it off and translate it. As best as I can tell a good way to help in diagnosing if the chains truly require replacing is to also log the requested vs actual cam timing in VCDS. One of the symptoms of sluggish cam timing is mild bucking/hesitancy similar to a faulty MAF. If the actual values values are slow to match the requested values then his points to a gummed up VVT system or the inlet gauze possibly being blocked.

The snapped chain syndrome on the early MK4s was attributed to the Sachs stamping weakening the chain links and also related to chemical corrosion caused by the extended Longlife service intervals (A topic for a future post when I get around to translating it). Chain stretch was mainly attributed to buggy/poor implementation (in early software revisions) of the VVT causing cam kickback and resonance effects on the chains at particular RPMs; this also may attribute to guide wear (but the likely main culprit was still the extended Longlife -what an oxymoron- service intervals) and (I've not fully translated this yet) possibly linked to faulty pressure relief valves in some oil pumps although that again could simply be caused by the extended Longlife service intervals."


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