# URQ won't start



## nic2k4 (Nov 27, 2004)

*urq wont start ( lost of power ???)*

HI, since the beginning of summer my 1984 10v turbo ur-quattro had hard time to start but always able to start. Last week I was coming home when the car sudenly die after a stop, I was able to start it up but the day after, I was enable to start the car, I change the air filter, I chek the fire , the spark plug are working, the fuel pump work, the starter too, I chek the timing belt, every thing is tight, but the mark on the cam pulley, the rotor and the flywheel don't seem to be at the right place. can someone help me








thx Nic


_Modified by nic2k4 at 4:43 PM 10/6/2007_


----------



## nic2k4 (Nov 27, 2004)

*Re: URQ won't start (nic2k4)*

I try to to touch the co adjuster , I turn 1 turn clockwise and the car finaly start but the idle is lower than 1000 and the power steering pump make a lot of noise , it maybe need more oil.
If someone have some advice it would be nice
thx
nic


----------



## Sepp (Dec 10, 2002)

*Re: URQ won't start (nic2k4)*

The idle should be lower than 1000... It should be more like 960-980, or so.
Pull off the snorkel (2-10 mm nuts), and reveal the air flow meter plate. Confirm it's sitting level in it's position..
If it's out of alingment, or sitting not flush, you might have a broken circlip (on the bottom side of the meter plate)
I'll try to get some photos of what I'm describing.


----------



## nic2k4 (Nov 27, 2004)

*Re: URQ won't start (Sepp)*

the flow meter plate is Ok, when I start the car the idle is normal but when I try to accelerate, the car seem to have some problem to get enough gaz.I command a new fuel filter I hpe thats my problem.


----------



## Sepp (Dec 10, 2002)

*Re: URQ won't start (nic2k4)*

Fuel pump might be starting to go bad...supplying enough gas to keep the car idiling, but not for any type of load.
Same thing happened to me.


----------



## nic2k4 (Nov 27, 2004)

*Re: URQ won't start (Sepp)*

I have change the gas filter and now the car start but die after 1-2 sec I try to play with the CO adjustement but it doen't work.
I really don't know what to do


----------



## Sepp (Dec 10, 2002)

*Re: URQ won't start (nic2k4)*

After the fuel ilter changeout, did you allow for the air in the lines to be purged out?


----------



## nic2k4 (Nov 27, 2004)

*Re: URQ won't start (Sepp)*

no I don't is there any technic to do that ??
thx
nic


----------



## Sepp (Dec 10, 2002)

*Re: URQ won't start (nic2k4)*

I was having simular problems with my car a while back, and here's a list of the things I looked at, and took care of.
Ensure theres no water in the gas tank.
And you've already confirmed that the CIS airflow plate is level, and not off alignment. 

#1 always check for vacuum leaks... 90% of the running problems with these cars is due to a leak in the vacuum system.
Ususally in the engine compartment. A cracked hose, something might be disconected, even as simple as a bad seal on the oil fill cap!
This can be a fustrating job, but have paitence, take a break if you get upset, and label everything you have confirmed OK with a piece of tape so you can easily keep track of what you've already done.
#2 loose/poor injectors. I'll check them all first by giving each a gentle tug to ensure they are seated in the head correctly.
(this has happened a few times...#1 injector would pop out)
Also cracked/missing injector seats will cause the same problem ( a vacuum leak right at the injector seal insert)
To test a questionable injector seat, try to get the car running after you spray a liberal amount of WD-40 to the area where the injector is seated into the head. If performance improves..there's your problem.
ou can pull injectors easily enough to confirm you are getting enough fuel, and a good speray pattern.
I'll pull one at a time, and stick the injector end in a glass jar. You'll have to pull off the igloo, and gently pull up on the air metering plate in the CIS.
This will alow a varible amount of fuel to be discharged from the injector depending on how high you pull up on the plate.
Confirm good rate/flow for each injector.
#3 cold start injector. It comes off the intake manifold easily, and will spray in the car is cold.
If not, confirm the injector is good, and the circuit as well.
No fuel anywhere? Might be a bad fuel pressure regulator...?
#4 fuel pump/filter
You changed your filter, and no luck. You should ensure that the line is purged full, to rid of any bound air. (not avoidable when changing these parts..it just happens)
Usually letting the fuel pump run will get rid of most air in the line, a sthe unused fuel is returned back to the tank, but I made sure it was all out by cracking the system pressure regulator in the upper passerger side of the engine compartment above the CIS.
*(CAUTION!!!!! This might have some pressure in it!!!!! Don't smoke, and don't work around a hot engine!!!!!!..some fuel might be released during this.)*
I ran the fuel pump until there was a stream of fuel coming out of the supply line.
I'd check #3 first...It's the easiest to do.
Still no luck?
Let me know!


_Modified by Sepp at 6:24 PM 9-11-2007_


----------



## eurowner (Jan 26, 2002)

Ignition Control Module


----------



## nic2k4 (Nov 27, 2004)

*Re: (eurowner)*

the car start and rev really well in neutral, but when I try to go forward 1st gear or second gear the car dont want to accelerate normaly I dont know if this is a air fuel problem ? maybe need more ou less fuel ??


----------



## nic2k4 (Nov 27, 2004)

*Re: (nic2k4)*


----------



## Sepp (Dec 10, 2002)

*Re: (nic2k4)*

more fuel


----------



## nic2k4 (Nov 27, 2004)

*Re: (Sepp)*

HI, I haved check for any hole in my wastegate diaphragme but everything seem to be Ok, I dont have any cat so the problem is not there. I check my fuel pressure before the fuel distributor and I got 120psi and when I shot down the engine aproximatly 45psi. I check every injector and they seem to be OK the spray of each is normal. when I chek the O2 sensor with a multimeter its always to rich or lean depending on how my CO is set and when I accelerate on idle the voltage of the O2 sensor fall down to 0. When I drive the car every thing is OK until I hit 2000-2500rpm then the car don't want to accelerate or had problem to.
May I change my O2 sensor or maybe change my Hall sender control Unit ? Or maybe I have a problem with my warm up regulator?? too much pressure on the top of my fuel distributor so my air meter plate don't go up....








by the way , my ECU had been chipped and I have a stiffer wastegate spring.
Thanks a lot for any help
NIC


----------

