# V8 DIY Oil Change



## liv2ryd (Oct 13, 2002)

For those Do-It-Yourselfers (DIY) out there, if you haven't done it already, I just did. My first oil change on the treg. If you're not a DIY, you may want to stick around for an amusing read. I do not know if ANY of this applies to a V6 since I have a V8.
First off, let me begin by saying this procedure is _MESSY!_ It is also involved. It is not difficult, but it is involved. The first oil change on any vehicle is always an adventure as you discover where the oil splats, but this one takes the cake. It is the most involved oil change I have done on any car.
And, don't think you can run down to Checker for a filter. It is a cartridge type. Yup, just like an old, late 50s Chevy small block. Even Chevy went to spin-on filters! I guess what goes around comes around. Anyway, the filter cartridge is about $20 at your local, friendly dealer, who will be sending his daughter to an Ivy League college on the profits from these filters alone!
Tools needed: 10mm socket & rachet w/ exention. 10 mm allen wrench (yeah, it's a big one!) 10mm open end wrench. #25 torx head. 6mm allen. 36mm socket or Crescent wrench that can open that big. Small flat blade screwdriver. Lots of rags. Aluminum foil. A big sheet of cardboard or something you can throw away to keep oil off the garage floor. Oil pan capable of holding 8+ qts, & capable of receiving a big flood of oil in a very short time. Ramps help but are not required, they just make moving around under the vehicle easier. Safety glasses. Latex gloves.
Let the games begin! First, you have to remove the "belly pans." Remove the 4 #25 torx screws holding the outer forward parts of the front pan. Then, remove the 9 10mm head bolts holding same. Two of them are hiding up above the sway bar in the wheel well, you'll need a 6" extension to get to those. Three are across the front pan just behind the little lip, and 4 where it meets the back pan. You need to jiggle it around a little bit to get it out becuase of how it juts up into the wheel well. Then, remove the 4 bolts holding the rear pan, pay special attention to how the rear ones engage - they're weird, but they go back together OK. I won't even attempt to describe them.
Now, you are ready to change the oil. Put on the safety glasses and the latex gloves. Don't just lay the safety glasses down near your work area. That doesn't help. Don't ask me how I know this.
I began by changing the filter. Its on the front right lower part of the engine. Right always refers to passenger side of the car. You'll see a black cylinder with a hex head and a silver plug residing in the middle of the hex. It's just above the sway bar. Wrap aluminum foil around the sway bar and cross member to keep oil off them and directed into your oil pan. Remove the plug in the middle of the filter body with a 6mm allen wrench. Allow to drain completely. Remove the black body with either a 36mm socket or large Crescent wrench. The body is plastic so don't be a gorilla. There will be some resistance at first as there is an O ring sealing it. The filter cartridge will come out with the black body. It needs a little jiggling to remove it from the body but it will come off. Simply slide the new cartridge over the shaft in the body and jiggle it till it lightly snaps into place. Use the flat blade screwdriver to lift the o-ring out of its groove in the black body and slide the new one provided with the filter into place, you may need to lever it with the screwdriver. Also remove and replace the small o-ring from the silver drain plug using the same method. Hand start the black filter body back onto the mount, tighten with socket/wrench until it stops. Remember, it's plastic, so don't tighten past where it stops.
Now, the real fun begins! The first drain plug is at the back of the oil pan, behind the cross member and in front of the axle. Get your oil pan up as close as you can to it and still have room to work, it's gonna be a flood! Wrap some foil around the cross member to "try" to keep it clean. Loosen the plug with the 10mm allen, you'll have enough room to stick the short end in and plenty of leverage on the long end to turn it. It won't take too many turns until it comes out, and the oil won't begin trickling as it gets closer - the plug will simply come to the end of the threads and come out, and it is about a half-dollar size opening, so the oil will come fast and furious! After that gusher stops, look up a little further back, and you'll see another silvery plug right before where the engine/tranny junction is. There isn't enough room to put the short end of the 10mm allen in, so you'll have to stick in the long end and that doesn't give a lot of leverage, so you may need to use the 10mm open-end on the allen to give you leverage. At least, that's what I did. Same procedure, same quick dump, only about a quart comes out this time.
Replace the washers on each main drain plug, you may need the little screwdriver again to work the old ones off, just be gentle so you don't score anything. Replace the drain plugs until good and snug. My rule of torque is to run it in till the threads strip, then back it off a half turn







.
Before replacing the belly pans, fill the engine with oil, I put in about 8.5 qt even though VW "claims" the V8 takes 7.9. Of course, that info wasn't in the owner's manual, which just said about the V8 capacity "Information not available at press time." Huh?
Run the motor and look under the treg to make sure there are no leaks at anything you took off.
Replace the pans in reverse order. It's a little tricky getting the front pan to line up just right up in the wheel well, you may have to remove the 2 25 torx screws at each wheel well to get those "flaps" out of the way, then it slides right in.
Stay tuned for my next installment: Rebuilding your engine during halftime of the Super Bowl!


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## ButteBeautie (Aug 16, 2003)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (liv2ryd)*

liv2ryd:
You are a VERY entertaining writer ... enjoyed that more than anything from the moto-scribes of the 3 major mags have done ... can't wait for the "SuperBowl Overhaul."
You are SO entertaining, I will almost INSIST you consider joining our "2004 Summer Colorado Rockies Rally" ... I still have you on the "mail list" ... and as soon as you get the wheel/tires you seek, you should be ready (assuming the "she who must be obeyed" can no longer object ... or can she?)
Shoot me your home phone via email and we'll give you a call when we pass through enroute to CB late next week ... or ... meet me at the Bronco's concession stand during half-time against the Browns ... and I'll buy you a watery Coores!




































PS TO OTHER MEMBERS: We still have a few openings for a "few strong men" next summer on the "Alpine Loop" in Colorado's San Juans ... feel free to email me: "[email protected]"


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## PabloP (Nov 24, 2003)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (liv2ryd)*

Very nice read. Enjoyed it immensely. I'll remember why when I fork over $120 or so for an oil change at the dealer.


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## Eric Dow (Mar 4, 1999)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (silverandteak)*

Agreed. I felt like I was reading the origional 'Idiot's guide to VW Rabit Repair'. The one with the rabbit completely torn down on the cover







I'd LOVE to meet you guys at the Colorado Rallye








As for the filter, its a requirement in Germany I heard. I think ALL Vw's and Audi's are destined for the paper type filters. They are really cool on the TDI's. The top spins off and you can change it without a drop of oil anywhrere. 
They have to be able to completely recycle not only the oil, but have to have a plan on what to do with the filters too. Guess what VW choose to do?

Furnace fuel! That's why they are all paper, and even the rubber o-rings can be removed







Very cool if you think about it. Couldn't do that with a self contained metal shrouded filter







I'll bet they come up with some carbon outside next that will make it like a self contained, yet still burnable








Cheers!


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## JoCaputo (Sep 10, 2003)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (liv2ryd)*

Excellent. Thanks for sharing.
I'm usually a DIY guy, but I may just let the dealer have my money every 10k on this one.


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## liv2ryd (Oct 13, 2002)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (JoCaputo)*

Actually, now that I have done it once, I'll go ahead and continue doing it. The first oil change is always full of surprises, as this one certainly was! Sears and Snap-on both sell a 10mm 3/8 drive socket, which will make the main drain plugs removal much easier to control, and I'll know to use my open oil drain pan instead of the one where I directly drain the oil into it, cap it, and take it to recycling. The hole the oil drains into on that one is very small and the flood of oil came frighteningly close to overwhelming it!
I've just always done minor maintenance on my vehicles, but these days there just isn't much you can do, so changing the oil helps keep my in synch with them.


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## spockcat (Jun 5, 2003)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (liv2ryd)*

I wonder if you could install one of those oil drain valves on the main drain so it could be let out more slowly and controlled? I don't suppose you measured the thread?


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## stephenkyu (Aug 18, 2003)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (liv2ryd)*

I have seen a lot of new car that have those types of filters. They claim that it does not damage the environment as much.
I wonder if you can just pump the oil out instead of letting it drain out the bottom. I bet that would reduce the mess somewhat.


_Modified by stephenkyu at 9:56 AM 12-5-2003_


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## spockcat (Jun 5, 2003)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (stephenkyu)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stephenkyu* »_I wonder if you can just pump the oil out instead of letting it drain out the bottom. I bet that would reduce the mess somewhat.


Based on the procedure, I bet you would miss a quart or so by using a suction device down the oil level stick hole.


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## Chuck Cheeze (Aug 14, 2003)

I am more than happy to give my dealer $90 for that mess!


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## liv2ryd (Oct 13, 2002)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (spockcat)*


_Quote, originally posted by *spockcat* »_I wonder if you could install one of those oil drain valves on the main drain so it could be let out more slowly and controlled? I don't suppose you measured the thread?

I did not measure the thread, but trust me, the hole is HUGE! I know of the valves you are talking about. Generally, oil drain holes I have encountered have been relatively small - 1/2 diameter or so. This one is an inch (25.4mm for the metric thinkers out there) at least. Think of a Mickey's Big Mouth Malt Liquor bottle versus any other bottled beer.







I don't know if there are any of those drain-type valves that big.


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## Outrageous (Jul 3, 2003)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (spockcat)*

liv2ryd,
Is there room to install a valve such as spockcat mentioned? See one of these valves at:
http://www.fumotovalve.com/

_Quote, originally posted by *spockcat* »_I wonder if you could install one of those oil drain valves on the main drain so it could be let out more slowly and controlled? I don't suppose you measured the thread?


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## liv2ryd (Oct 13, 2002)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (Outrageous)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Outrageous* »_
liv2ryd,
Is there room to install a valve such as spockcat mentioned? See one of these valves at:
http://www.fumotovalve.com/


I did go to that website, and there is plenty of room around both drain plugs to install something like that if they make it to fit the hole. It would certainly make the draining procedure less dramatic!


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## watson007 (Oct 16, 2003)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (silverandteak)*

I'm paying $100 here in Kansas for a Mobil 1 0W-40 oild change. I think I'll stick with that for now.


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## spockcat (Jun 5, 2003)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (liv2ryd)*

How about some reducing fittings to some copper tubing, to a tee, to a single copper tube run to the side of the car where it ends with a valve. Then you have a couple of 5 gallon containers ready at the end of the valve and you can drain your oil while sitting on a stool by the side of your car. Sort of like milking a cow!


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## Outrageous (Jul 3, 2003)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (liv2ryd)*

The website ( http://www.fumotovalve.com/ ) lists a N-type valve (which has a nipple for connection to a hose if you wish) available for the Audi A8, so maybe this would fit the Touareg V8. 


_Modified by Outrageous at 5:28 PM 12-6-2003_


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## Outrageous (Jul 3, 2003)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (Outrageous)*

If you could change the filter without removing the underbelly shrouds, you could do a complete oil change fairly easily using Spockcat's technique.


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## TheWaterSkier (Dec 12, 2003)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (liv2ryd)*

Hmmm, my boat (Ski Nautique) has a 351 CID Ford V8. Where the drain plug would be, there is a fitting to a rubber hose (inside diameter about the same as your little finger). The hose is about 3 feet long and has another fitting on the end to which a cap is screwed. The drain plug for the hull is directly below the front of the engine. So, to drain the oil, I run the engine for a few minutes on the trailer (I have a fresh water hose fitting) to warm things up. I then feed the hose down through the drain plug hole, place a collection jug under the boat and take the cap off the end of the hose. Very clean system and I don't see why it wouldn't work for the T-Reg with the proper fittings. The end of the hose has a clip that you use to secure the hose to another fitting on the engine when your not draining the oil. 
The filter would still be an issue though...
Roger


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## liv2ryd (Oct 13, 2002)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (TheWaterSkier)*

Actually, the filter housing is the easiest part of the whole oil change as far as draining and removal/replacement. It's the gusher you get when you remove the main drain plug that ya gotta be careful of.


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## Outrageous (Jul 3, 2003)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (liv2ryd)*

Is it possible to change the filter without taking off the lower shrouds?


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## trexer001 (Dec 8, 2003)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (liv2ryd)*

FYI. T-Rex Oil filters are available here for under $12:
http://www.auto-parts-oem.com/....html


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## liv2ryd (Oct 13, 2002)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (Outrageous)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Outrageous* »_Is it possible to change the filter without taking off the lower shrouds?

No, it's not at all possible. As a matter of fact, you really can't access ANYTHING on the underside of the motor without removing the shrouds.


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## foosballchamp92 (May 10, 2004)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (liv2ryd)*

Wow, as someone who has ALWAYS changed my own oil, your email is starting to make the $140 the dealer wants to charge me more appealing! Changing oil and rotating tires has always been a fairly fun bonding time for me and my dad, so I think I might take this on. How long did it take you? Should I plan a couple of hours or an entire afternoon?


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## mdjak (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (foosballchamp92)*

Sounds to me as you'd be better off playing a game of foosball. Why don't companies think these things through during the manufacturing process? Sounds like an awful lot of work and mess that shouldn't be the case.
I wonder if even the dealers do it correctly.
And that certainly was a very well-written and fun-to-read post.


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## foosballchamp92 (May 10, 2004)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (mdjak)*

Trust me, I'd rather play foosball than have oil all over my garage. I'll bet the dealers do it right, but I would trust any other place. Besides saving a few bucks, it is nice to know that it is done clean and correctly. Have you changed your own oil?


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## liv2ryd (Oct 13, 2002)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (foosballchamp92)*

I would actually say that a couple of hours to do both the oil change and tire rotation would be sufficient - I would say it took me about an hour to do the oil change alone, and part of that time on the first change is always spent "in discovery", if you know what I mean. It's really not that intimidating, and removing and reinstalling the belly pans takes as much or more time than the actual change. If you like to do this to bond with your car, go for it!


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## Leo Yudysky (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (liv2ryd)*

V6 oil change:
Well on my V6 I only needed to take off the rear belly pan. I drained the oil first before tackling the oil filter. It does really shoot out there, overshot my drain pan by 6 inches, reminds me of my youth. On the filter, I just used an american oil filter wrench and it worked great. I was afraid of the plastic 36 mm nut, which being plastic might break? Actually if you just quickly unscrew the canister and just go for it, its not so bad. My first attempt had a 'learning curve', so the next one should only take a half hour.
My filter cost $11.99 at Champion auto parts, at Car Quest they wanted $14.00 so I smartly drove all over and saved $2.00.
I changed the oil at 2500 miles, I know , I'm supposed to wait for 5,000 miles, but thats hard to do. I can't imagine waiting for 10,000 miles for a regular oil change, how do they figure that?
This oil change cost me $6.00 less than taking it to the dealer and having him do it for $34. 
So he'll do it next time for that much. 
I'm not sure a Quicklube will have the filters yet, but now that I know its that easy I don't think their highschool mechanics will mess it up any worse. They might charge $5.00 for removing the covers as they did that to me on my Durango, they called it a 'skid plate surcharge'. 
Leo from Montana
04 Touareg, Colorado Red V6 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Bishop (Jan 17, 2000)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (liv2ryd)*

I just wanted to bring this back to life and say what a great write up liv2ryd did with this thread.
I'n sure I could have figured everything out without the knowledge in this thread, but knowing what all tools I needed and the assurance of having a step-by-step guide sure helps(!)
Anyway, I do have a couple things to add that hopefully will help someone else out.
First, where it said to use #25 torx to remove the belly pan, #27 was a perfect fit for me.
Next, I didn't bother with wrapping foil or anything the k-member and just gave everything a quick shot or two or with a can brake cleaner and blasted it clean.
Mine also took exactly 8.5 quarts even though the manual said 7.9.
Anyway, thanks for the write up, liv2ryd! http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif


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## 2003PassatTurbo (Sep 14, 2003)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (Bishop)*

Anybody know why there are two drain holes? Are there two oil pans? Is this so that each bank has a more dedicated oil pan, to better serve the engine when the car is tilted to extreme levels? The oil pans have to be connected, since there is only one dipstick...


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## sanderle (Sep 13, 2004)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (2003PassatTurbo)*

I just finished my first oil change last night. Great instructions!! Not too bad of a DIY job, really. The biggest problem I had, was removing the drain plugs. The dealer did my last oil change.
Which brings me to ask, does anyone have the torque specs for the oil pan drain plugs? How about the oil filter drain plug and housing?
I am also interested to know why there are two oil drain plugs.

Thanks


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## yugodutch (Aug 9, 2004)

V6 seems to be alot easier! Removed the rear section of plastic belly pan. Used a large drain pan and cardboard beneath and around in case I missed the initial shot. I did. I would recommend ramps or blocks for the next time. I crawled underneath without, but will use them next time! Other than that, not bad. Off to replace the cabin air filter now. Enjoy


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## Treg_John (Dec 30, 2004)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (spockcat)*


_Quote, originally posted by *spockcat* »_How about some reducing fittings to some copper tubing, to a tee, to a single copper tube run to the side of the car where it ends with a valve. ... 

That would be really cool to have, but would something like that be vulnerable to a pot-hole or off-road obstacle?


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## spockcat (Jun 5, 2003)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (Treg_John)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Treg_John* »_That would be really cool to have, but would something like that be vulnerable to a pot-hole or off-road obstacle? 

Did you see the







?


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## sanderle (Sep 13, 2004)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (spockcat)*

Just finished my second oil change on my V8 yesterday. Everything went smoothly, except for breaking loose the drain plugs. My local service guy said they should be torqued to 50Nm.
Any tips/suggestions for breaking them loose? I would guess shops just use an impact wrench, so no problem. Would one of the electric impact wrenches make sense? I don't have an air compressor.

Thanks


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## Phagus (Aug 5, 2003)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (sanderle)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sanderle* »_Just finished my second oil change on my V8 yesterday. Everything went smoothly, except for breaking loose the drain plugs. My local service guy said they should be torqued to 50Nm.
Any tips/suggestions for breaking them loose? I would guess shops just use an impact wrench, so no problem. Would one of the electric impact wrenches make sense? I don't have an air compressor.

Thanks

a 1.5'-2' long metal tube that you use as an extension of your wrench works.
just looked up the bentley manual. 50 nm torque is what it says.


_Modified by ****us at 12:46 PM 10-11-2005_


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## sanderle (Sep 13, 2004)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (****us)*

That what I used. Just looking for an easier way.


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## UROOC (Dec 19, 2004)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (sanderle)*

I just did my first oil change on my '06 V8. That's was easy as ****! The only thing I can suggest instead of using allen wrenches, use a allen head socket with 6" extension. That's what I did. Breaking the two drain plugs loose with this combo was easy. I torqued everything snug and then a half turn roughly. The T-Reg took 8.5QTS just as the original poster said! Good job on VW to make it one of the easiest oil changes to date! Even easier then my Mini.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Blue04 (Jun 13, 2006)

*Re: (Chuck Cheeze)*

$90 wow here in San Diego we pay closer to $128.


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## bigscout79 (Aug 24, 2004)

*Re: (Blue04)*

On my old Audi I cut a circle hole in the underbelly pan about 5" in diameter - then put two spring clips on the circle that was removed to allow reinstallation. This allowed me to get my arm up and remove the oilfilter without dropping the pan - would something like this work on the touareg?
I'm coming up on being out of warranty and am considering trying out a DIY.
-Jeff


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## Phagus (Aug 5, 2003)

*Re: (bigscout79)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bigscout79* »_...- would something like this work on the touareg?
...
-Jeff

No. open it up and see why by yourself.


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## amphicar770 (Feb 19, 2006)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (liv2ryd)*

Will add my thanks for the great DIY write up. I tackled the job on my V8 this weekend. While it was certainly more time cosuming that the standard oil change it was not that awful and I managed to avoid making a mess of the Treg and my garage floor.
I found the tip to use aluminum foil was very helpful. For an oil drain pan I used a very long and wide rubbermaid container that worked great.
When I removed the 1st plug I was able to keep it agains the opening to control the gusher. The 2nd plug i was not so lucky and gave my arm a nice oil bath.
As others noted, removing and replaceing the pans was about 50% of the time involved. Putting the car up on ramps is almost a must do. I initially thought I would raise up the air suspension and just crawl underneath. Even at full height it was cramped working quarters. One on the ramps it made a world of difference. 
I also used exactly 8.5 qts of synthetic oil (Agip). Bought the filter on-line. Figure I saved about $50-$70 dollars and bonded with Treg in the process. VW should have provided that first service as a freebie with the CPO program, they might have gotten me in the habit of taking her in for the oil change.


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## dentmac (Apr 29, 2004)

For interest- The capacity of the V8 including filter is 8 US quarts. The dip stick is often misread.


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## wrh3 (Mar 18, 2004)

*Re: (dentmac)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dentmac* »_For interest- The capacity of the V8 including filter is 8 US quarts. The dip stick is often misread.

Yes, I read all of the oil change threads before tackling this job myself 2 weekends ago (THANKS to all for the info). As others have said, a lot of the time is R&Ring the plastic undercovers. 
I had also read how 8.5 qts seemed to be what most were putting in but mine was full after 8 (I think the spec is 7.9). I have checked it since and verified that is still full.
Even after reading how fast the oil comes out I was unprepared but did have sense to put a piece of cardboard under the oil drain pan (a big Rubbermaid) and spilled very little while giving my arm an oil bath.
I have a similar oil filter setup on my R32 so that was pretty starightforward, the two oil drain plug thing is new to me though.


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## Phagus (Aug 5, 2003)

*Re: (wrh3)*

the best oil collection container is one of these:








get the front wheels on RhinoRamps (or similar) and the bucket fits very well under the oil pan.
try not to drop the oil pan plug into the bucket when unscrewing it. some might find it unpleasant to fish for the plug in 8 quarts of warm oil.


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## Evil Treg (May 25, 2006)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (liv2ryd)*

I just changed my oil this last weekend as well. Thanks to liv2ryd for a great write up!








The only difference (maybe) that I can tell from his description of his '04 and my '06 is the rear belly "pan" rear mount - mine has a nice, simple spring clip attachment. The aluminum foil tip is great! (How could I go 28 years of wrenching without learning that??







)
I do have a tip for those of us trying to come up with a better way to contain the explosive release of oil (wow!). I like the idea of installing a valve on the 2 plugs which I believe is do-able, but I am going to try this a few times first. I notched the 2 plugs to allow for oil to begin draining just before completely removing the plugs:








Simply loosen the plug (don't go too far or ...) until you get a pretty good stream of oil and then go mow the lawn or vacuum or clean the bathrooms.... I have 2 large oil drain pans so my plan is to drain the oil filter and the main plug first (at the same time). Then, while I am servicing the filter I'll be draining the secondary plug.
NOTE: I changed the oil at 1200 miles. I always strongly suggest that you change the break-in oil well before the manual recommends. Proof- The oil was not fresh looking or feeling, even at this early mileage and there was a significant amount of sludge (dirt and metal particles) in the oil filter canister, down in between the ribbing. I encourage everyone to thoroughly clean the filter canister on every oil change as well.
See y'all!


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## Mark78 (Nov 28, 2005)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (liv2ryd)*

Excellent review on doing it right. liv2ryd 
I just completed a V8 oil change in about 1 1/2 hours including clean up.
Couple of extra tips I suggest:
T-handled allen wrenches sped up pan removal and install.
Metric allen sockets and a 6" extension helped with the crankcase plugs.
Use a big coffee can to catch the oil from the filter canister and rear reservoir. Hold it close to avoid splashing.
Carboard and lots of rags essestial
COST
8 quarts Mobile 1 52.00
Filters, sealing washers 19.00
1 roll paper towels 1.79
72.79
So I saved 50.00 from paying a dealer for the same service. But boy did I appreciate looking at the Treg's construction and quality!
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## papaTDI (Jan 9, 2004)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (liv2ryd)*

anyone gonna do the Oil Change *DIY* for the V10 ?


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## spockcat (Jun 5, 2003)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (papaTDI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *papaTDI* »_anyone gonna do the Oil Change *DIY* for the V10 ?

No one is stopping you.


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## papaTDI (Jan 9, 2004)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (spockcat)*


_Quote, originally posted by *spockcat* »_No one is stopping you.

okie dokie spokie


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## Me_tobster (Sep 7, 2007)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (liv2ryd)*

Great write up. These directions are perfect. Location descriptions are superb. This is the first VW I have owned and was nervous about changing the oil in it. With these directions you can not go wrong. The only negative thing for me was the previous tech that did the oil change needs to learn what a torque wrench is. The drain plugs were so tight I had to use a breaker bar to get them loose. Wonderful write up. Thanks a lot. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif way up!!


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## MK67 (Oct 15, 2007)

Thanks for the detailed write-up!
FYI, a T30 torx bit worked best for me on the under-tray screws. Other than that, the DIY write-up was spot on.
-Mike


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## nltomba (Jan 30, 2007)

*Re: (****us)*

I agree with the bucket, however I shortened the bucket a bit and raised the air suspension. When you get the plug out, catch the first oil while simultaniously lifting the bucket. I also put some crumbled up paper towel on the bottom. No spill whatsoever


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## WHOISBIGMAN (Mar 8, 2007)

*Re: V8 DIY Oil Change (liv2ryd)*

Stuff to add...
I did my first oil change today on our new to us V8. Used the directions given here. Ordered V8 oil change kit from PAP-parts. All went very well, not a drop spilled.
1. Used t30 on underbelly pans, t25 on smaller outer pans.
2. Used a 5 gallon bucket that I cut off at about 11 1/2 inches to drain oil into, fits up close so no splashing.
3. And you guys will love this... As far as the gushing oil coming out everywhere, here is the cure. Take your shop vac, stick it over the valve cover fill opening and turn it on. let it hold itself there with it's own vacuum/suck power. unscrew the cork and not a drop or dribble comes out of the bottom







turn off the vacuum and let it flow.


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## webbstarrs (Mar 4, 2004)

WHOISBIGMAN said:


> Take your shop vac, stick it over the valve cover fill opening and turn it on. let it hold itself there with it's own vacuum/suck power. unscrew the cork and not a drop or dribble comes out of the bottom
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
Sick!!! this really helped a lot!:laugh::beer::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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