# HELP! 02 Audi TT 225 AMU



## nocornerscut (Jul 26, 2013)

...I am very sad to be typing this post right now.. I have just purchased this audi tt 225 quattro with the amu engine. I noticed a louder tick than usual.. I have done a ton of reading and iv'e read ticks are pretty common with these vehicles. This loud tick seemed to be coming from the bank 1 side closest to the t-belt. 


Kept getting either misfire in cylinder 1 code, or multiple misfire code. Checked the plugs. Removed the cheap autolite plugs. Threw in some NGK's, gapped em to .028. Still got the code for cyl 1 misfire. Ticking became even louder. 


I then removed the oil sump to inspect the screen and pump...boy oh boy... what a sad day:facepalm: I found a nice big metal oil squirter in the bottom of the pan. And yes, she was chewed up quite a bit. The bolt and squirter were together, atleast the top of the bolt. I think the other half is still screwed in. So my next question is what the hell do I do now? Pull the motor? Inspect? Rebuild? Or just buy a new oil squirter and pray for the best.. 

Another question.. how could this have happened? And I suppose the chance of that piston skirt being fouled is pretty damn good. There is a lot of build up in the sump, dark brown oil residue baked on the metal. 


Any advice or suggestions would be very much appreciated. I have the mechanical knowledge to perform just about any of the above mentioned next steps but of course the less work I have to do the better. Thanks guys and gals.


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

You can still do a leak-down test to see if valvetrain and rings are good, though you'll probably want to spray a little oil in each chamber if your head's been starved of oil. If that comes out OK, then I'd replace the broken parts and see how well she runs. I'm pretty sure my car was serviced for this around 80k, and even after overheating several times and blowing a head gasket, she's running fine 60k later on the same (decked) head and original internals.

Where are you located? It's always good to have a second set of eyes around when you need them...


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## nocornerscut (Jul 26, 2013)

Ok good advice, I have a brand new leak down tester ($60 harbour freight :laugh The funny thing is, before the guy sold me the car I was his mechanic and he thought I screwed him over.. so he took it to auto haus. Where they performed a compression test and said cylinder 3 was at around 90psi.

Then they told him in order to find out where he had a leak they would have to pull the head. I bust out laughing and told him that the next step in the process is to perform a leak down test which of course as most of us know will pin point the area of concern WITHOUT ripping the head off for 2,000. Long story short he apologized to me, lol. I am located in Norfolk, VA. (Hampton Roads) And I would GREATLY appreciate a second set of eyes if anyone is up for the challenge. I am a driveway mechanic and I make decent money solving some of the hardest problems in the auto world. I have a good reputation.

However, I am stepping into some uncharted territory with this issue. Havent ever worked on audi's for a start... and has anyone noticed it is kind of a challenge finding certain things out about these cars on the internet when you try to dig and look for help? Ok sorry for going so far off topic. 

Again if anyone is up for helping me out PLEASE let me know :banghead:


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## toy4two2 (Feb 6, 2012)

shade tree mechanic here too. Welcome to the world of Audi (roughly translated to English means $500)

I've never owned a harder car to work on and I've even owned mid-engine Toyotas which make access difficult. You will wind up buying lots of special Audi/VW tools.. I have haldex wrench, timing belt tensioner tool for valve cover gasket job, sockets for bolt heads I've never seen before, inside and outside hex, triple square bits, coolant tester (SCORE for Harbor Freight :laugh: ), VAGCOM (


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## nocornerscut (Jul 26, 2013)

Agreed, the specialty tools alone are crazy. I have many, lol. Just from the work on the bmw 740il I got recently. Which was an insane diagnosis process. Only to find a backwards relay .

And thank you for the warm welcome. I need advice on the first move to make, I suppose leak down test? After I figure out how my seals are looking go from there. But due to the scaring on the oil squirter I think the chances of crank being damaged and piston fouling are around 95%. So regardless of compression I have decided to do a full rebuild and I want to ask you guys if this series that shows an entire 1.8 tear down and rebuild is good enough for what I want to do. (Of course having the bentley along side is a must for the process.)

Link - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPYIUylUW9I - This guy seems to be extremely thorough, either that or loves adderall :screwy:

If I can add in some "beefed up" internals for fun, great. If not, oh well. I can throw $1500 into the build. 

As I mentioned I have done a ton of reading, and it still hasn't stopped. But I need help to form an opinion of the best route with my cash flow in mind. I will buy the ring compressor and all the other necessities for the build. I want to try to stay away from the machine shop if possible I will even re-hone my self.


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

Do the leak-down if you have the tester and a compressor handy already. That youtube vid is fantastic, by the way. I'm hoping you can get some life out of the motor before you have to rebuild. Keep us posted on your progress!


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## nocornerscut (Jul 26, 2013)

Will do.

Pulled off the radiator/condenser assembly, discharged R134 removed High/Low lines and dryer. Drained G-12, pulled out headlights, removed coolant tank, power steering tank. 


I am curious to know how easy this will be by leaving tranny bolted in...


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## nocornerscut (Jul 26, 2013)

This also seems like it will be a good time to do the PCV Delete..... hell or even just simplifying the crazy hose system Audi implemented.


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

Pull the tranny, too. From what you've said so far, it sounds like you have the whole front end torn off, so you may as well pull the tranny with the motor. Personally, I wouldn't have drained the A/C, as you can pull the motor while leaving it intact, but if you have easy access to refigerant at a decent price then it doesn't really matter.

The stock PCV system works fine in my car, and there's a really good writeup on replacing the entire AMU PCV system with stock components on one of the other forums, iirc. It is expensive if you go through the dealer, though.


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## nocornerscut (Jul 26, 2013)

I have a vacuum pump with container, gauge system, and a 30lb cylinder of 134a. I also dyed the system to check for leaks, came up with a few bad o-rings. 


Going to pull tranny too.


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## nocornerscut (Jul 26, 2013)

Ok.... so disconnecting drive shaft from back of tranny? ...I am guessing it the easily accessible circle of silver bolts??


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## volksvrsex (Feb 8, 2004)

there are 6 10mm 12point bolts 3 on the front and 3 on the backside of the coupler.
you only need to remove 3 from either the front or the back which ever has the best access.
good luck!


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

*FV-QR*

So wait you claim to be a shade tree mechanic that can solve the hardest problems, but yet need to ask how to remove a drive shaft?

These cars are beyond simple to work on, the 1.8T motor is also not very complicated.

Have you taken a bore scope to the cylinder where the damage occured? To see if there is damage to the cylinder walls? Have you done the leak down and compression tests to see where the issue is?

Have you dropped the oil pan, windage tray, oil pump and looked and the cylinder in question?

It sounds like you are gung ho on pulling the motor, go for it. Drop in some rods, throw a different turbo on there and have fun.


Also the PCV system performs a important function, deleting it is a bad idea. Improving it is a good idea.


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## nocornerscut (Jul 26, 2013)

Buddy, 

I have solved some tough mysteries period. However I was a little confused on which bolts to pull on the shaft. Thought this place was for asking ANYTHING Audi related. Basic or not. Instead you insult me?:thumbdown: Thanks a lot bro. Just as I was about to upload a pic thanking the community here for being so kind.... well here it is. Thanks for the sour taste on the day I got my motor out. 


-THANK YOU LITE1979 - You da man!!!

http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/matthew_charles1/media/20130802_171553_zpsc2b6870d.jpg.html


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## pIOUs (Feb 17, 2013)

nocornerscut said:


> I have a vacuum pump with container, gauge system, and a 30lb cylinder of 134a. I also dyed the system to check for leaks, came up with a few bad o-rings.
> 
> 
> Going to pull tranny too.


 i wish you could document this process for the forum. I haven't found any writeups on this. Snap some pictures of your tools and equipment for doing this. I want to learn this soon so I can do it. Dying the system looks like the part where the write equipment is necessary. You would be my personal hero for contributing this to the forum.


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## pIOUs (Feb 17, 2013)

ejg3855 said:


> So wait you claim to be a shade tree mechanic that can solve the hardest problems, but yet need to ask how to remove a drive shaft?


When I used to work on Canon copiers, I felt like the sh!t after a few years of working the field. It didn't matter how old the model or new I could diagnose most problems over the phone with a nervous secretary or mailroom kid. Once I got away from the dealership to general service companies, I was asked to work on everything...Ricoh, Samsung, Oce, Kodak, Zerox. Working on a new platform no matter how easy it turns out to be later can be intimidating until you get right into it. I'll take a Honda or Toyota any day for diagnostics. My Honda's Helm manual needed no supplements from the internet. It was superbly written. VAG and Bentley has been a disappointment, but I like the forum communities. Anyways, rock on no corners!


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## nocornerscut (Jul 26, 2013)

Hey,

No problem bro, I already have pics of most of the process in my smart phone. I throw all that stuff onto the thread and explain it step by step. 

That's the great part about diving into something like this Audi TT, didn't know much about it when I started, and now I pretty much understand every system in the car. That's the way I learn. Dive in, rip it all out, put it back together. No left over nuts and bolts either:laugh:


Also it's a great way to thoroughly investigate a vehicle that you have just purchased. It may seem daunting at first but when you're finished you can say that you haven't left any stones unturned. No surprises. Of course most mechanics here would probably say i'm insane for advocating such a process and time consuming journey :screwy:. 

Today I am removing the head from the block and investigating all the goodies inside.


“There is no conflict between the ideal of religion and the ideal of science, but science is opposed to theological dogmas because science is founded on fact. To me, the universe is simply a great machine which never came into being and never will end. The human being is no exception to the natural order. Man, like the universe, is a machine. Nothing enters our minds or determines our actions which is not directly or indirectly a response to stimuli beating upon our sense organs from without.” - Nikola Tesla


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

*FV-QR*

you dove head first into a problem? you didn't diagnose it properly, you ignored advice from the forum, you can't remove a drive shaft. 

Removing a drive shaft is the same concept on a Ford as it is an Audi or a Honda. Conceptual mechanics are all the same, your ability to figure things out is what separates you from someone who takes the car in for service. 

I wish you luck in your repairs, but your methods are horrible.


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## nocornerscut (Jul 26, 2013)

Again buddy, 


I didn't come here to argue or to say anything negative. If you have a problem with my way kick rocks and don't bother posting on my thread. Leave me alone bud. 


And how in the world do you know if I did or didn't follow any advice from this forum? Because as I recall I read all the questions you asked and I didnt bother responding to YOUR questions due to the fact that you wanted to second guess my abilities. Just like you have yet again above. 

Low compression in cylinders 1 and 3, broken oil squirter in oil pan, misfire codes for miles. ENGINE IS COMING OUT. Not to mention the stuck exhaust valves (hence low comp), scared piston skirt on cylinder 1. 


So you tell me if I was wrong to pull the motor. After finding those facts out I decided it was best for a full rebuild. And last time I checked that was my decision. 

Or are my methods horrible? Anybody would pull motor at that point bro, it has to be rebuilt. 


Oh and to address "PCV Delete" - I am well aware of how the system works buddy, I chose the wrong word when I stated "Delete", "Simplify" would be a better word for what I meant. And if you havent read of the actual Audi TT 225 AMU PCV delete, google it. 

This little mud slinging match between you and I needs to stop, this isn't the place for that kind of nonsense. Wouldn't you agree? Aren't you here to help? Negativity and Mechanics don't go together bro. If you don't like the way I do things get over it. Now lets be friends. Let me be the first to apologize. I'm sorry.


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

pIOUs said:


> i wish you could document this process for the forum. I haven't found any writeups on this. Snap some pictures of your tools and equipment for doing this. I want to learn this soon so I can do it. Dying the system looks like the part where the write equipment is necessary. You would be my personal hero for contributing this to the forum.


 ^^^This is a good idea. 

Pics of what you've found or other things you're doing will be helpful to others too and just interesting in general. Welcome to the forum either way


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## nocornerscut (Jul 26, 2013)

Hey, 

Thanks for the warm welcome . 


Yes I will be posting many pics soon. Been so tied up with other vehicles lately. I have every intention of contributing valuable information to this forum, as the internet doesn't have much to offer sometimes regarding the TT. I've been having a blast with this car haha and I haven't even been able to drive it yet! 

LOTS of information soon to come!


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## nocornerscut (Jul 26, 2013)

*Audi TT 225 Quattro AMU - A/C Leak Detection*

Also, 


In regards to Dye Injection. I have found a very common area for a system leak to develop. The Receiver/Dryer line connected to the bottom of the Receiver/Dryer curves under the front passenger side of the bumper. Mine had literally been sawed almost in half by the radiator/condenser housing. 


So check in the area right where the line is close to the plastic housing by the fans (passenger side)


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