# 2.0TFSI Coolant Flush



## Ries (Sep 18, 2014)

So since my TTS came from down south, and it was tracked (coolant mostly water), it's cooling system wasn't set up to handle MN winters where it can get to -15degF pretty easily. Thankfully I found this out before it got too cold and avoided some serious damage.

First off I was able to get my hands on the Elsawin v3.91 to help me out with my car. Helped quite a bit to show where everything was located. I also picked up the ECS Tuning Schwaben cooling evacuation tool kit too. The tool also helped out quite a bit with avoiding air pockets in the system and was 1/4 of the cost of the VAG tool, which is pictured below.

So that said it was all pretty straight forward and I figured I'd post this up for everyone since I didn't find anything on the interwebs showing the level of detail I was after. Should save a DIY guy a bit of coin. I'm personally the type of guy that just enjoys working on his cars and would rather do the work myself knowing it was done right the first time. In any case enjoy.

*Tools/Fluids required:*
-T25 torx bit
-T45 torx bit
-ratchet or electric impact driver for bits
-hose clamp removal tool or 90deg offset needle nose pliers
-small flat head screw driver (used to loosen hoses upon removal)
-coolant evacuation tool (not required, but recommended and is used in the following procedure)
-1 gallon of G12/G13 coolant
-1 gallon distilled water

*Time to complete:* roughly 45min - 3hrs depending on mechanical ability

*Coolant Flush Procedure (at least what worked for me)*

1 - Put car up in the air ensuring it is adequately supported and secure.
2 - Remove lower engine noise insulation cover








3 - Remove cap on shunt tank
4 - Position fluid catch pan accordingly and remove lower radiator hose from tee on engine side (easier to get to then removing hose off radiator)









5 - Re-position fluid catch pan and remove outlet hose from circulation pump









6 - Ensure the system has had a chance to completely drain
7 - Re-install hoses on tee and pump
8 - Install evacuation kit. (*Note*: I found that the 35mm adapter worked in the shunt tank once the tool was installed and the knurled knob was adjusted)










9 - Insert the key into the car and turn it to the on position then proceed to turn the heat on.
10 - Pull a vacuum (25inhg) on the system and let it sit for at least a minute to ensure the vacuum is held and there are no leaks in the system. If there are leaks obviously they will need to be fixed. For details on how to operate the tool kit see below.










11 - Turn the key off in the car.
12 - Fill the new coolant container with your desired mixture, I chose 60/40 since I live in the frozen tundra.
13 - Install the suction hose into the container holding the new coolant mixture.
14 - Briefly pull vacuum again on the system with the valve to remove the air from the suction hose and prime it with coolant.
15 - Disconnect the air feed to the tool and open the valve for the suction hose.
16 - Allow the system to fill until the shunt tank level reaches within the max/min range as indicated on the shunt tank.
17 - Disconnect the tool.
18 - Start the engine and check for leaks.
19 - Shut the engine off and re-install the noise insulation.
20 - Take the car for a test drive bringing the coolant temp up to normal operating temperature.
21 - Check coolant level and top off as necessary.

*Note:* The evacuation tool isn't necessarily required, but it ensures a complete fill the first time. If so desired you could fill the shunt tank manually; however take note that you will have to 'burp' the system to adequately fill it. This may be accomplished by removing the highest hose in the cooling system to allow the air to escape. Once coolant begins to come out of the line re-install the hose. Not doing this procedure can result in cavitation of the water pump, which can cause system failure.


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