# HELP!!! i cant fig out my coolant lines 1.8t swap



## High Body slc (Aug 23, 2004)

can someone help draw out my coolant lines... ive tried and i just cant get them right 
its a AEB with ABA hardware
thank you!!!


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## High Body slc (Aug 23, 2004)




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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

This is an open ended question. We need to know:

What H20 Pump yu are running (AEB or ABA) (i.e. 1 side nipple or 2)
What accessories such as Heater, OIl->water oil cooler, etc etc..
What Head oulet Flange (Driver's Side of 20v head)


Since you are using AEB (058 block with Eternal H20 pump) you are using the same essential config as all other 4cyls, prior to Internal H20 pump 4cyls.
Let me explain how the system works and it might help you answer your own question.

There are 2 or 3 circuits depending on AEB H20 pump (1 side pump nipple) Vs all other 058 block 4cyls (2 Side pump nipples)

1.) There is a main Cooling Circuit. Lower Rad -> H20 PUmp -> Block -> head Flange -> top Rad
2.) a ByPass Circuit on AEB or 2 bypass circuits on all 058 (except AEB) (thus 1 side h20 pump nipple Vs 2)
2a.) 1 for Heater Core and other accessories such as auto Trans Cooler, Oil -> water cooler, Expansion Tank Bottom draw, etc. (e.g. Head Flange -> HC -> hard pipe (usually with nipples from bottom of coolant ball, accessories, etc -> back to side nipple on pump - Bottom nipple) 
2.b) 1 for continuous flow Temp bypass Circuit (no need to go to Rad when temp in block is appropriate) This runs from Driver's Head Flange (or upper Rad hose) back to appropriate Nipple on H20 pump (Top) to send temp to thermostat. Purpose: When Thermostat is closed, this circuit is still circulating (bypassing Rad) to prevent hot spots in engine, etc.

The bypass circuits all come from the Drivers Side Head Flange -> their appropriate bypass circuits and then to the side nipples on H20 Pump (respectively via descriptions above). AEB all merge into one.

Since I am assuming Corrado, I would make sure you are using a Non-AEB 058 H20 pump (2 nipples like 8v/16v 058 4cyls).

Hope that helps.

P.S. I make up a special bypass pipe on my 20v Hybrid for the main bypass circuit ->


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

That pipe goes to upper Rad hose with typical small line to top of expansion tank.


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## High Body slc (Aug 23, 2004)

Great information... Sorry I thought the drawing explained it ..
It's a aeb block using aba hardware with 2 outlets besides the one going to the bottom of the radiator 
My buddy help me put the setup together and bought a 3 nipple flange off the driver side of the head... Almost all the aba stuff went directly where it needed to go as if it was set up in a aba...
But I have a extra nipple on the flange off the head. The nipple on the cop of the overflow bottle and the return line for the turbo...
Can I block off the bottom nipple and use the top nipple on the overflow to return the turbo coolant line?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Helps, if I click on your pic :laugh: I see you have the details there.

When I get a few, I can detail what goes where, but for now, the info posted should get you most of the way. 

As far as the Drivers Side Head Flange (and the metal return pipe from the heat Ex to the lower Nipple of h20 pump), you may have an extra nipple or two depending. You can cap off extras as they were for Auto Trans Cooler and/or the diff between AEB setup and/or the ABA Metal return pipe.

- You want the larger rear nipple on head flange to go directly to Heat Ex.
- Return from Heat Ex, should go to Metal Return pipe.
- Return on Exp tank (lower Fitting) should go to any nipple on Return pipe.
- One side of Oil Cooler should go to Bypass Circuit from either Head Flange or a hose along the way to H20 Upper Nipple.
- Other side of oil Cooler should go to return pipe.
- Need to think where the best place for Turbo Return would be, but needs to be somewhere on lower pressure return side (maybe someone can chime in).


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## High Body slc (Aug 23, 2004)

I appreciate the help.... I'm def a visual learner!! 
The pipes for the most part fell right into place where they wanted to go but I need to make sure I have it right!! 
I am missing just a few!! If you could draw it out it would be great!!


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## High Body slc (Aug 23, 2004)

Up


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## High Body slc (Aug 23, 2004)

I set it up how I got into how to.. It's overheating quick! I replaced everything and even removed the thermostat and it still is heating up fast


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Sounds like you either have Air in the System that is troublesome to get out, or you are using the wrong Temp Sender.

Are you going by the Cluster Temp gauge or do you have an External Gauge? What Temp Sender are you using for the cluster gauge? The Corrado Black or are you using the gauge pins off of the blue AEB Sensor?


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## High Body slc (Aug 23, 2004)

I am using a green temp sensor I believe it's a mk4 sensor.. I am using the gauge and megasquirt is actually reading the temps at 230.. It will get to that temp at 2 mins of idling. 
My first thought was air pockets but I've had 2 respectable people check out the lines and they deal it was bled correctly.. 
I will draw out my diagram of lines and see whAt you think.. It's a Aba pump with 3 nipples on it


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Anything later than the Mk3 ABA Yellow Ring Temp Sensor will cause the Temp gauge on the cluster to Skyrocket quickly as it warms.

All ECU side of the sensors are pretty close (Corrado 2 pin blue, ABA, AEB blue 4 pin, D shaped green or black 1.8t, etc), but the gauge side on the 4 pin sensors are way different for the cluster gauge. I have a long write up about this somewhere, but in short, for your gauge to read properly, you have 2 "real" choices:

1.) Find an extra port and use the dedicated Corrado Black 2 pin sensor for the cluster gauge
2.) get the ABA Yellow Ringed 4 pin square Sensor (2 pins are for the ECU and 2 for the gauge with proper NTC "thermistor") <- this is what I use with megasquirt and proper cluster gauge.

The ABA 4 pin uses the same square plug as the AEB Blue 4 pin square temp sensor (if you have that harness)

Now, why Megasquirt is reading off is a question. Unless you truly are getting high temps. 

... But, regardless, skyrocketing temp gauge on cluster is def due to wrong sensor.

This may help you.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

in terms of what Megasquirt is reading, what version of MS are you using? I, II or III? and did you set the correct Thermistor values for the VW/Bosch/saab sensor?

Also, are all of your sensors grounded to the head on a good ground? along with the MS sensor ground?


Even using the Correct values, I have always had MS read about 10-15* higher than actual.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

I'm the one who installed/built the ms2 v3.

All grounds for the ms is at the battery, sensor return is on its own dedicated wire for the IAT/CLT/TPS. Temp sensor readings match when the engine is not run for several hours.

Car uses a late 20v sensor, wired per that diagram.

Edit: I was hanging out with my friend Johnny Walker earlier.

CLT resistance values are taken directly from the MK4 Bentley, so taking the gauge reading out of the picture this thing still heats up quickly.

Lower rad hose doesn't get up to temp at all. One of the heater core hoses gets warm, not as warm as the lower rad hose but it's not from radiant heat for sure, as the other is a bit closer to the exhaust manifoldb and stays cool.

Still gets stupid hot stupid fast with the thermostat removed.

My own DD mk4 doesn't get that hot that fast, even with or without a working thermostat. Friend's VRT Rado takes 20min of idling to get up to temp ( I know apple's vs oranges)

Coolant overflow does get some flow out of top hose with some RPM.

It's almost like the thermostat isn't getting the full effect of 220* coolant temp to open up, and even with the thermostat removed it's like the radiator is getting bypassed.

I can have Matt grab a datalog of warmup if anyone would like to see how fast this thing heats up.


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## High Body slc (Aug 23, 2004)

Pretty original name Dave hahahah!! I really feel it has to do with my hoses.. I'm about to cap off one of the waterpump inlets and just run it like a oem aeb.. I am so frustrated, do you think the overflow is not at it highest point? 


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

High Body slc said:


> ...I'm about to cap off one of the waterpump inlets and just run it like a oem aeb.. I am so frustrated, do you think the overflow is not at it highest point?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It is possible. I was going to ask you to snap a pic or two so I can visually see whats up. What Rad did you end up using? The Corrado?

I have personally fought with a few G60's that were stubborn on bleeding the air out. The results are as you describe. A lot has to do with the Corrado Rad Elbow and upper line position in relation to the coolant ball. 

I usually park the car on slope (nose down), so the coolant ball is definitely at the highest point. Remove cap, start car and as car starts to warms and the thermostat starts to open, I start squeezing the upper Rad host to bleed the air into the coolant ball. I have never not been able to get all of the air out this way.


Regardless though, you will need that ABA Yellow Ringed sensor for your cluster to read correctly. MS will be fine if the sensor values are set.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Dave926 said:


> ...
> It's almost like the thermostat isn't getting the full effect of 220* coolant temp to open up, and even with the thermostat removed it's like the radiator is getting bypassed.


If the lines routed to the Waterpump are not right, this is very possible since the top one circulates water through the engine constantly and the Bottom is used to open to Thermostat. But, if you removed the thermostat, this should not be the case.


This may be a stupid question, but you sure the H2o Pump vanes are intact and not a plastic one that has gone south? Also, what is your belt routing? V-belt for H2O and PS pump? You are not running the H20 pump backward are you? I know this may sound silly, but I have seen it before with custom bet routing, so just thought I would ask.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

sdezego said:


> If the lines routed to the Waterpump are not right, this is very possible since the top one circulates water through the engine constantly and the Bottom is used to open to Thermostat. But, if you removed the thermostat, this should not be the case.
> 
> 
> This may be a stupid question, but you sure the H2o Pump vanes are intact and not a plastic one that has gone south? Also, what is your belt routing? V-belt for H2O and PS pump? You are not running the H20 pump backward are you? I know this may sound silly, but I have seen it before with custom bet routing, so just thought I would ask.


Single serpentine for everything, no p/s or a/c.

WP is said to be new and looks the part. Was spinning backwards but had a 'doh' moment and was fixed prior to this thread and has since been fixed. (spins clockwise)


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## High Body slc (Aug 23, 2004)

heres a image of how my coolant lines are run, 
like i said i have 3 nipples on my waterpump, the top nipple runs to the top nipple on the oil cooler
there are 3 nipple off the head (front, back and bottom....the bottom one is capped off)

like dave said, the pump was running in reverse, but has now been fixed


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## High Body slc (Aug 23, 2004)

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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

The only thing I see (which really is no big deal and will not cause this) is that I think the lines on the Heater Core are reversed. Again, just nit picky and will not cause what you describe.

I see nothing wrong with what you have there, unless I am missing something. Lines sizes for the pink yellow and red would be my only question and since you are probably using the bypass pipe for Yellow, that is moot. Even if Red was large, I don't think it would cause an issue. What size line is the first T off of head flange to pink bypass? Smaller that Top Rad hose right? 

Judging by what I am seeing, I would say you have to have air in the system.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

One other question, you are not running a valve on the Heater Core line right? To close off flow like Mk1's since their bypass came off front of head too?


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## High Body slc (Aug 23, 2004)

There is no valve off the heater core... I am using a stock Corrado heatercore and just a line off the head to it


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## High Body slc (Aug 23, 2004)

All the hoses are oem Aba (2.0) hoses just trimmed to fit


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Has to be either Air or clogged Rad from what I see.


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## High Body slc (Aug 23, 2004)

Rad is brand new... I'll try bleeding it better


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## High Body slc (Aug 23, 2004)

Rad is brand new... I'll try bleeding it better


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## High Body slc (Aug 23, 2004)

I was thinking about it and was wondering if you think the brown line coming off the turbo and meeting the pink line is too low...
My thinking is that it's out of the flow to the radiator.. Being on the warm coolant return from the block to the oil cooler and the. Back to the motor that it's actually dumping the hottest violent that's in circulation in with warm coolant and it's actually bypassing the radiator hence why the longer it runs the temps will climb when the fans went on


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## 3 bar (Aug 16, 2001)

Having the same issue trying to figure out my cooling lines for my 1.8t swap in my Corrado. Thanks all for the heads up.


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