# DSG S-Tronic Shift Rod



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

To use an S-Tronic shift knob (front button) in a car equipped with a DSG shift knob (side button) the plastic rod inside the shifter post needs to be rotated. It is possible to heat and twist the existing part but it has been known to break.

Therefore, I am offering this part as a solution to broken shift rods or as an alternative to twisting the existing rod.










I do not have a DIY procedure since I don't have an S-Tronic knob to install (donations welcome). FiftyPence has a good description of the process on this page: http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?5885117-DSG-Shift-rod-3dprinting/page2

The parts are 25mm long and have an M2 x .4 threaded hole. Existing plastic rod should be cut off slightly above the top of the metal shaft.

These are NOT for sale. We are sharing the cost of materials, manufacturing and shipping. Your share is $10, including shipping in U.S. by first class mail. I'll ship priority or international but that requires a trip to the post office so your share is $5 plus cost of shipping. PM me.

I figured out how to make these because it was an interesting engineering job. I am making and offering them to others because I believe that if you can help others, you should. So I ask that you do the same for others when the opportunity arises.

Parts are one per person and not for resale. Use of these parts is at your own risk. No guarantee is expressed or implied.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

These work fantastic!! JJ for President!


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## DG7Projects (Jul 12, 2011)

Ponto said:


> These work fantastic!! JJ for President!


I second this notion. :beer:


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## VWAddict (Jun 12, 1999)

Cool!

I have a DSG knob if MisterJJ needs to borrow one to try...

I'm probably up for one of these!


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## x SMURF x (Sep 12, 2010)

Ahh its been along time. I am definitely in for one of these


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Looks good!:thumbup: Should I pm you yet?


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Can we vote to have MisterJJ as a dictator instead?


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

The new knob! And the tools! Picked up a hand tap and 2mm drill bit at the local hobby shop. 









Also grabbed a 2 mm rod while there, had to trim it down as it was to long.










And missing a few pictues - It was dark in the car. But drilled and tapped the shift rod in the car. Mine broke a bit further down so JJ was nice enough to send me an extra long rod. 

But took me about 20 minutes all said and done! 










Slid right on, the button stuck once, but self cleared and we were good to go! Been rocking it ever since.


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## Maitre Absolut (Aug 5, 2009)

Been there done that, good job.

I'll take à spare if ever mine breaks

:thumbup:


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

Maitre Absolut said:


> Been there done that, good job.
> 
> I'll take à spare if ever mine breaks
> 
> :thumbup:


Get that French "a" out of here :laugh: Fortunately I was able to heat and twist mine without breaking it, but if not I would totally be down for one of these. MisterJJ is hooking you guys up! :thumbup:


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## Ultimatetaba (Feb 18, 2005)

MisterJJ, you are a standup guy :beer::thumbup:


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## Mici (Aug 22, 2012)

Yes sir, PM sent. Maybe I now have the courage to try and get my ass-tronic knob installed. That thing definately changes the interior to another decade.

-Mici-


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## asal (Oct 12, 2007)

very cool of MisterJJ. I have no need for this but :thumbup: anyway.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

krazyboi said:


> Can we vote to have MisterJJ as a dictator instead?


I'm good with that. My first decree is: Restore the original lol bump!


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## Mici (Aug 22, 2012)

My rod  arrived here in Finland today. Thank you, sir!:wave: I didn't remember to ask, you could've sent a few weeks of warm CA weather with it here too... I'm fed up with the white stuff already.

-Mici-


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Mici said:


> My rod  arrived here in Finland today. Thank you, sir!:wave: I didn't remember to ask, you could've sent a few weeks of warm CA weather with it here too... I'm fed up with the white stuff already.
> 
> -Mici-


What white stuff?


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

krazyboi said:


> What white stuff?


I'd give her my rod alright.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

I've got some more requests but have run out stock. It's super crazy at work right now so I'm not sure when I'll get a chance to make more. If work makes me come in on a Saturday I'll try to work on them, since I'm not getting paid anyway.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Made another batch.

PM me.


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## Cajetan (Feb 1, 2012)

Not to thread jack, but where do I shop s-tronic shifters? I know I missed a group buy.


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## ceese (Jul 2, 2011)

Cajetan said:


> Not to thread jack, but where do I shop s-tronic shifters? I know I missed a group buy.


Ebay or ECS


Don't know how I missed this thread before - is it still possible to order two?


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## G2SSM (May 20, 2013)

*PM Sent*

Thanks! I may finally be able to install a cool shifter to match the car.


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## RedATPGti (Nov 25, 2002)

PM Sent! Thanks!:thumbup:


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

G2SSM said:


> Thanks! I may finally be able to install a cool shifter to match the car.


who said your car was cool?


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## onasisvr6t (Jun 15, 2007)

*S-tronic*

Do you still have the rods to to the shifter
Mod?
I need 2 of them 
How do I get my hands on them


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## asal (Oct 12, 2007)

no rush, but now that i have an A4 w/side mounted button i'd like one as well for when I make the switch to the s-tronic knob. double bump :beer:


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## mfractal (May 16, 2005)

Also am very interested in one. 

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Well... I originally made these as a favor for the guys here and because it was interesting to figure out how to do it. Many months and several more requests later, I found it to be not worth the time to make them. So it was either stop making them or charge a bit more to make it worth the time. I figured that $10 a part would be enough to cover time and materials to a point where I would be willing to keep making them.

So if you still want one for $10, just PM me.


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## toastedzen (Feb 10, 2013)

Hello! Dead thread revival :vampire: any chance that you can fab one of these up for me as one piece, longer than shown, using a bit wider material, where I can hollow out the bottom part to slip over the plastic part on the DSG shifter? I made a mistake when I was tapping and drilling, and because it was not perfectly centered the drill hole slipped off to the side to break out the thinnest part. The plastic part of some shift rods is a crossed design, if you look at the cross section from above, and this doesn't leave enough material to re-drill the hole. Not too much of a big deal, I can just change the mod to the lift-knob-to-disengage-lock mod similar to how I modded my Mk.IV back in the day. In fact, I think most VW owners still mod this way. But I saw that you were fabbing these up and my machine shop guys are being a bunch of tools these days. It would be nice to install the later model knob with the button if there is still a way for me to do it. If I have a piece that slides over the plastic I can tap through it from the side with a set screw, but the top portion would still have to be the same dimension I believe to fit within the knob.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

toastedzen said:


> Hello! Dead thread revival :vampire: any chance that you can fab one of these up for me as one piece, longer than shown, using a bit wider material, where I can hollow out the bottom part to slip over the plastic part on the DSG shifter?


Hmm.. I think I see what you want to do but I'm not sure it will work. The plastic sleeve to cover the existing part would have to be quite thin. I don't think you could make a set screw work.

I think you might be better off cutting it shorter and trying the drill and tap again, but use an alignment piece to get the hole straight. Then use a longer grub screw to fill the space between existing rod and top piece.

You can make an alignment piece easily using a lathe but if you just have a drill press you can do it as follows:
Equipment needed: Drill press. Block of wood or plastic. 1/4" dia. drill bit. 1/16" dia. drill bit. 1/4" dia. stock of metal or hard plastic.
Method:
Clamp block of wood or plastic onto drill press.
Drill 1/4" hole.
Press short piece of 1/4" dia. metal or had plastic into the hole you drilled.
Drill 1/16" hole in the 1/4 dia. piece.
You now have a piece that should fit inside the metal part of the shift rod and the 1/16" hole will be perfectly centered for drilling a hole in your plastic shift rod.

The above method is pretty much what I do to get the threaded hole centered in the shift rod pieces I made, but I use 6mm. I think 1/4" dia. will fit into the metal shaft for the alignment piece though.


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## toastedzen (Feb 10, 2013)

Nah, I am just going the old VW route, with pull up action knob. I can drill through the remaining plastic shaft and set a bolt, through the outside sleeve. There won't being kung-fu-grip-button-action but it will be okay. Thank you for the reply. If I had not already made it impossible to repair I could use your advice. I would need to pul up on the plastic and cut the damaged part off and then use the longer version of your mock up... in the end it is more convenient for me to go with the other type of mod.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

toastedzen said:


> Nah, I am just going the old VW route, with pull up action knob. I can drill through the remaining plastic shaft and set a bolt, through the outside sleeve. There won't being kung-fu-grip-button-action but it will be okay. Thank you for the reply. If I had not already made it impossible to repair I could use your advice. I would need to pul up on the plastic and cut the damaged part off and then use the longer version of your mock up... in the end it is more convenient for me to go with the other type of mod.


Another thought... Use a 1/4 drill or end mill to get rid of the messed up part and try again. Might be tough to clean out the shavings though. Good luck with whatever you do.


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## toastedzen (Feb 10, 2013)

MisterJJ said:


> Another thought... Use a 1/4 drill or end mill to get rid of the messed up part and try again. Might be tough to clean out the shavings though. Good luck with whatever you do.


:thumbup: I was looking at this today. There is enough room to try this just once more. After that I will have to go with the pull up knob because there won't be enough plastic showing, but at the moment there is enough left that I could pull up on the rod, cut off the bad part, make a little hole jig, shim the rod, and drill out the center tap. I would need to ask if I could get an extra long one of these replacement rod ends from this thread, such as the one shown in the center of the picture above. I can get the length measurement with calipers from work tonight.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

toastedzen said:


> :thumbup: I was looking at this today. There is enough room to try this just once more. After that I will have to go with the pull up knob because there won't be enough plastic showing, but at the moment there is enough left that I could pull up on the rod, cut off the bad part, make a little hole jig, shim the rod, and drill out the center tap. I would need to ask if I could get an extra long one of these replacement rod ends from this thread, such as the one shown in the center of the picture above. I can get the length measurement with calipers from work tonight.


I made a batch of regular size ones. After making the longer one I realized that the added length didn't really do anything that a longer screw wouldn't also accomplish since the bottom of the rod never goes below the top of the metal tube.


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## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

a long screw would obviously be the easiest bet, but I ****ed mine up and already bought grub screws so I simply made an extension out of the rod that came with the new shift knob. Aslong as the top of your rod is the right height you'll be fine.


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## toastedzen (Feb 10, 2013)

Ponto said:


> Mine broke a bit further down so JJ was nice enough to send me an extra long rod.


I am not sure why, but my gut feeling is that a long screw with no plastic meat around it will not be as secure; the longer rod end would have less strain on it over time. It would be so much easier to fix if we could dissemble the shifter rod and fix it.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

toastedzen said:


> I am not sure why, but my gut feeling is that a long screw with no plastic meat around it will not be as secure; the longer rod end would have less strain on it over time. It would be so much easier to fix if we could dissemble the shifter rod and fix it.


Mine was longer down into the shifter. I still have an inch of more of screw buried into each end. 

It's not like there is a ton of force on the shift rod and it's only in one direction. 

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

My custom JJ replica rod lol


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Another option - go to a 3mm hole and screw, guy in the UK did it with that cause its all he had. Still worked fine.


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## toastedzen (Feb 10, 2013)

louiekaps said:


> My custom JJ replica rod lol


^^ This. 

:laugh::laugh:



Ponto said:


> Another option - go to a 3mm hole and screw, guy in the UK did it with that cause its all he had. Still worked fine.


Okay. Thanks. :beer: for you both. I will try something here soon.


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## toastedzen (Feb 10, 2013)

Thank you to JJ for supplying me with the new rod end. It worked out perfectly, and the new shift action feels as though it has always been this way. :thumbup:


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

You weren't kidding on the scenic route. I missed this while it was happening. I still have one to install on my car...


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## toastedzen (Feb 10, 2013)

JRutter said:


> You weren't kidding on the scenic route. I missed this while it was happening. I still have one to install on my car...


Use a 2mm screw, NOTHING LARGER. Thinking I might just use what I have at work, maybe 3mm, did not turn out for the best. Also, be sure to properly create a centered pin hole for the drill and drill straight down into the rod, being particularly cautious not to deflect to the side. Other than that it is easy.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

toastedzen said:


> Thank you to JJ for supplying me with the new rod end. It worked out perfectly, and the new shift action feels as though it has always been this way. :thumbup:


Cool. Glad I could help.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Announcing a new and improved shift rod!

I know what you’re thinking... How can you improve on perfection... but I did! The custom shift rod now has a 1/16" dia. hole all the way through! Amazing, right? This is the tap drill size for the 2mm thread so now you can use the part for alignment to drill the hole in the existing shift rod stub. Added bonus is less weight! Less weight means less mass to move when shifting between D and S or to "+" and "-" so that means faster shifting! It's science, trust me. 

 

The part is still machined to precise standards from solid "Billet" high performance plastic Delrin rod!


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Great Scott my friend! That's genius! This makes me want to remove my current one just to use this. But I won't.


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## tcardio1 (Mar 25, 2014)

MisterJJ said:


> Announcing a new and improved shift rod!


Just in time for Christmas!


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## toastedzen (Feb 10, 2013)

MisterJJ said:


> Announcing a new and improved shift rod!


I want a refund. :facepalm:


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

toastedzen said:


> I want a refund. :facepalm:


I'm so good that I already changed it out for you. Don't believe me? Check.


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## fourtwofive (Dec 20, 2011)

Paypal SENT! Your inbox is full so i can't send you a PM but here you go!

I just sent you $20 through paypal with my address. i noted that I don't know the exact length needed so whichever is the longest one you have i will take then cut it to length. Thank you again man!! i need to get my car sold!!


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## Teh_Chris (Dec 31, 2007)

MisterJJ said:


> Announcing a new and improved shift rod!
> 
> I know what you’re thinking... How can you improve on perfection... but I did! The custom shift rod now has a 1/16" dia. hole all the way through! Amazing, right? This is the tap drill size for the 2mm thread so now you can use the part for alignment to drill the hole in the existing shift rod stub. Added bonus is less weight! Less weight means less mass to move when shifting between D and S or to "+" and "-" so that means faster shifting! It's science, trust me.
> 
> ...


Dayum i want one made outa aluminum.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Teh_Chris said:


> Dayum i want one made outa aluminum.


I thought of doing that. It would actually be easier because I can buy 6mm diameter aluminum stock.

But aluminum wouldn't have the same lubricity as plastic and may cause wear on the shifter mechanism... hmm... the Delrin likely has better lubricity than the stock plastic so that's even less friction for even faster shifting!


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## Teh_Chris (Dec 31, 2007)

MisterJJ said:


> I thought of doing that. It would actually be easier because I can buy 6mm diameter aluminum stock.
> 
> But aluminum wouldn't have the same lubricity as plastic and may cause wear on the shifter mechanism... hmm... the Delrin likely has better lubricity than the stock plastic so that's even less friction for even faster shifting!


Got any of them on hand? If so how much shipped? Lookin at gettin a new shifter for the A3 in the next month or so and dont wanna do the heat &twist

Sent from my Galaxy Note3


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Teh_Chris said:


> Got any of them on hand?


Yup. $10. Just PM me.

But what is up with the archaic symbology in your signature?


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Teh_Chris said:


> Got any of them on hand? If so how much shipped? Lookin at gettin a new shifter for the A3 in the next month or so and dont wanna do the heat &twist
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note3


Not to take a sale from JJ, but you can do the cut and tap without his piece, which is normally what should be done. I did it with both of mine, just snapped the one on my old A3 trying the heat and twist, thankfully JJ saved me.


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## Teh_Chris (Dec 31, 2007)

MisterJJ said:


> Yup. $10. Just PM me.
> 
> But what is up with the archaic symbology in your signature?


Thats where the fun is at ... soon to be Supercharged 04 R32... the A3 is my daily while i boost the beast


















Sent from my Galaxy Note3


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## Teh_Chris (Dec 31, 2007)

MisterJJ said:


> I thought of doing that. It would actually be easier because I can buy 6mm diameter aluminum stock.
> 
> But aluminum wouldn't have the same lubricity as plastic and may cause wear on the shifter mechanism... hmm... the Delrin likely has better lubricity than the stock plastic so that's even less friction for even faster shifting!


Forgot to reply but it showed up last week. ... now just gotta stalk down the drillbit/tap and a knob i wanna use 

Sent from my Galaxy Note3


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## toastedzen (Feb 10, 2013)

The S-Tronic knob got stuck on me - twice. Seems the shifting spring might have too much downward force (later model spring?) and the lever action of the S-Tronic knob button is enough to slowly rip the rod end off. But it was mentioned, and likely true, that the 2mm rod I have is not long enough. I scoured the Internet and local cites and was only able to come up with an RC model tie rod with a one inch long section of 2mm thread. That one inch section appears to not be long enough to adequately tie in the stock rod, middle spacer, and the Delrin top. So if anyone has access to a hobby shop in their area with a better option, I would be much obliged if you can hook me up. Since it causes so much of a hassle when the top comes off with the S-Tronic knob and I am out somewhere I think I might change it to a solid knob that I can pull up on, the way that I modified the DSG shifter in my Mk5.

:facepalm:


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## AngryGiraffe (Sep 21, 2014)

toastedzen said:


> The S-Tronic knob got stuck on me - twice. Seems the shifting spring might have too much downward force (later model spring?) and the lever action of the S-Tronic knob button is enough to slowly rip the rod end off. But it was mentioned, and likely true, that the 2mm rod I have is not long enough. I scoured the Internet and local cites and was only able to come up with an RC model tie rod with a one inch long section of 2mm thread. That one inch section appears to not be long enough to adequately tie in the stock rod, middle spacer, and the Delrin top. So if anyone has access to a hobby shop in their area with a better option, I would be much obliged if you can hook me up. Since it causes so much of a hassle when the top comes off with the S-Tronic knob and I am out somewhere I think I might change it to a solid knob that I can pull up on, the way that I modified the DSG shifter in my Mk5.
> 
> :facepalm:


I have a bunch of 2mm threaded left over from doing my shifter. PM me with how much you need, an address, and I will send it to you.


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## toastedzen (Feb 10, 2013)

AngryGiraffe said:


> I have a bunch of 2mm threaded left over from doing my shifter. PM me with how much you need, an address, and I will send it to you.


Thank you thank you. Also, try and stay dry over there


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## AngryGiraffe (Sep 21, 2014)

toastedzen said:


> Thank you thank you. Also, try and stay dry over there


Not a problem. Forget staying dry. I'm just trying to keep my car from getting hailed on. I've had to run out of the paint booth, take off all my gear, haul ass to my car and pull it into the shop. It's like the third or fourth time this month I've had to do it!


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## speedyrex (Mar 18, 2011)

Hi MisterJJ, are these still for sale? My heated pull-rod just broke off, and the remaining rod is sitting pretty deep in the mechanism...:banghead: It's quite similar to what Ponto had his broken-off...










:facepalm:


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

speedyrex said:


> Hi MisterJJ, are these still for sale?


 I've got more that are "standard length", which will work fine if you have a long enough screw to bridge the gap.


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## speedyrex (Mar 18, 2011)

MisterJJ said:


> I've got more that are "standard length", which will work fine if you have a long enough screw to bridge the gap.


Great! I will PM you now!


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## speedyrex (Mar 18, 2011)

Hi MisterJJ, your PM is full, so I have to respond to you here...

I managed to salvaged whatever remaining top part of the rod and screwed it back onto the shifter. But I am not sure how long it will last, coz I was only able to get a scrub screw of 1.8mm. So far it is holding up!

I think I will still get a piece from you. Kindly let me know the total costs on first class USPS mail, and I will transfer to you through PayPal.

Thanks for the help so far!


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

speedyrex said:


> Hi MisterJJ, your PM is full, so I have to respond to you here...
> 
> I managed to salvaged whatever remaining top part of the rod and screwed it back onto the shifter. But I am not sure how long it will last, coz I was only able to get a scrub screw of 1.8mm. So far it is holding up!
> 
> ...


@MisterJJ


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## sprinta301 (Jun 7, 2015)

Misterjj another Audi A3 with a broken shift rod! this time the eye of the plastic rod broke while attempting the shift knob retrofit. 

Hopefully you can help me out with your solution kit...just send you a message. 

Thank you in advance for any help to get me back on and enjoy my a3, its been a bummer with this issue. 

Joe


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## sprinta301 (Jun 7, 2015)

Thank you Misterjj, the replacement plastic rod worked like a charm!! 

In case anyone needs to do this: The hardest part was to get a drill and tap set to do this job. I used a 1.5mm drill to make the hole needed for the 2mm tap. The 2mmx0.40 10mm long grub screw was another item that needed some eBay search. 

Anyways, much appreciated for all the research involved and the great knowledge of this forum!!


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## hed1 (Feb 9, 2012)

sprinta301 said:


> Thank you Misterjj, the replacement plastic rod worked like a charm!!
> 
> In case anyone needs to do this: The hardest part was to get a drill and tap set to do this job. I used a 1.5mm drill to make the hole needed for the 2mm tap. The 2mmx0.40 10mm long grub screw was another item that needed some eBay search.
> 
> Anyways, much appreciated for all the research involved and the great knowledge of this forum!!


Thanks for this, I'm about to give this a try, do you have links to the eBay items you could post up?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

sprinta301 said:


> I used a 1.5mm drill to make the hole needed for the 2mm tap.


1/16" drill will work as well. I've heard the tap can be found at hobby stores. Industrial hardware stores should also have it, along with a grub/set screw. Then there's this Internet thing. 

Glad I could help!


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## ed j (Mar 11, 2003)

Would love to upgrade to the carbon knob.


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## Giyome (Dec 24, 2015)

Nicee! How much for the black one? :O!!


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## gammerx (Nov 24, 2015)

@MisterJJ awesome worked out great! Waiting on a S3 shifter from germany


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## ceese (Jul 2, 2011)

I could get into that red one


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

talking about coming late to the party

http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/complete-step-by-step-guide-dsg-gear-knob-retrofit-rs3-replica.263232/


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

MR JJ WHAT CITY YOU LIVE IN?

wat machines you guys use?


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## ed j (Mar 11, 2003)

Decided to cut and tap instead of the heat and twist method. 

From this:


To this:


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## Bigo1087 (Feb 19, 2010)

MR. JJ, just got my knob in, would rather cut and tap ten heat and twist sent u a pm for your paypal.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Bigo1087 said:


> MR. JJ, just got my knob in, would rather cut and tap ten heat and twist sent u a pm for your paypal.


If you cut and tap from the start you don't need a new top. 

Sent from my Igloo


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## Joey9 (Sep 18, 2014)

I would like one. If you could email me at joeyjacobsss (at) gmail (d0t) com that would be great. Thanks!


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## Bigo1087 (Feb 19, 2010)

I attempted the heat and twist, followed all the threads i could find, broken when putting the knob on, in two pieces.

I sent over paypal for the piece last month, no response yet :-(

becuase mine in several pieces, should i find a longer 2mm screw?, then try to attach the top piece, middle piece to whats left?
or just try to atttach the top and leave a gap?


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Bigo1087 said:


>


Quicky method:
Get 2mm threaded rod and drill/tap from hobby shop. Hand drill and tap both existing plastic rod and broken off top piece. Cut threaded rod to 1" + missing gap distance. Install and if you were careful to align everything, you're good to go.

Here's my complicated, detailed, over-engineered method:
Get 2mm threaded rod and drill/tap from hobby shop.
Clamp a block of solid wood or plastic, about 3/4" thick, onto a drill press.
Drill a hole about the same diameter as the plastic rod. Should be 15/64" or maybe a letter B size.
Put broken off plastic rod top piece in hole (thick end up) and file/sand top of piece level so drill doesn't wander off center.
Start hole with small "center drill" if you have one.
Drill tap size all the way through rod piece (hold with pliers if it spins) and remove rod piece but leave block in place.
Wrap tape around rod piece so it fits snug and centered in metal shift rod shaft.
Hand drill tap size through rod piece and into what's left of the original plastic shift rod, at least 3/4" deep.
Remove top rod piece and put it back in block in drill press with thick side up.
Chuck the tap into the drill press and manually rotate tap into rod piece to get it started, perfectly aligned. Pro method is to start drill press, then turn it off and quickly drive the tap into the hole. Finish tapping at least 1/2" length of threads.
Tap threads into the remains of plastic rod at least 1/2" deep using the metal shaft as a guide to keep tap inline with shaft.
Cut threaded rod to 1" + missing gap distance. It helps to have a nut you can thread past end to clean up threads, or just file off cut threads carefully so it will thread into the plastic easily.
Install threaded rod, rod piece, and shifter. Top of rod should be about 1" above metal shaft.
Shift happy.


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## Bigo1087 (Feb 19, 2010)

MisterJJ said:


> Quicky method:
> Get 2mm threaded rod and drill/tap from hobby shop. Hand drill and tap both existing plastic rod and broken off top piece. Cut threaded rod to 1" + missing gap distance. Install and if you were careful to align everything, you're good to go.
> 
> Here's my complicated, detailed, over-engineered method:
> ...


MisterJJ,
Your inbox is full, could you send me the standard lenght one? As it would be easier and Then I could use it to align for drilling.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Bigo1087 said:


> MisterJJ,
> Your inbox is full, could you send me the standard lenght one? As it would be easier and Then I could use it to align for drilling.


Cleaned out the box. Didn't realize the sent box added to the limit.

I'll have access to a 3d printer soon so I may be able to make longer ones easily. But I'm not sure how strong the parts will be so I'll have to test it.


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

i put the drawing on shapeways. someone can try it. i printed rc control arms from them and seems ok. 

but i think the walls on the top for the oval hole might be too thin if 3d printed


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

tp.wannabe.s3 said:


> i put the drawing on shapeways. someone can try it. i printed rc control arms from them and seems ok.
> 
> but i think the walls on the top for the oval hole might be too thin if 3d printed


Yeah, I was thinking of printing it sideways to help with tensile strength. I've got a pull tester at work so I can test it out. We'll see.


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## vick2002 (May 24, 2016)

*Broken pin*

Mister JJ , I sent you a PM for your paypal, i will apreciate your help .


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

LOL, TP: http://www.shapeways.com/product/SKW73JUFM/dsg-shift-rod?optionId=6755086

I've got a few messages that I've ignored. Been too busy. You could go with the above, although, not to knock TP, but this one is oriented the direction which would be stronger and how I was going to do it:

http://www.shapeways.com/product/S9NUJNC9N/shift-shaft1?optionId=7913040


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Mucho Thx, MisterJJ!!


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

You can now purchase 3d printed parts here: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/transmogrify

Rod - Needed if you failed trying to "heat and twist" or if you want a backup in case things go wrong. Pilot hole only - needs to be tapped.
Rod Long - Same as above but extra long for those who have broken off their shift rod deep in the shaft. Cut as needed. Pilot hole only - needs to be tapped.
Drill Rod - If doing the cut and tap method, this can be used to precisely locate the drilled hole in the shift rod piece that was cut off.
Tap Rod - After drilling, this can be used to get the tap perfectly straight and aligned in hole. Tap as far as possible then remove tool and continue tapping.
Drill Shifter - Used for getting the drilled hole in the shifter shaft rod straight and centered. Add some tape around rod first to center it in the shaft to make it perfect.
Tap Shifter - Used to get the tap perfectly straight and aligned in hole. Tap as far as possible then remove tool and continue tapping.

All of these parts have been made available for download and have zero markup in the cost. They are all "beta" versions and have not been tested yet. Let me know if there are any problems.

P.S. For the ultimate stealth baller, I made the Rod available in 18k gold:


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Just ordered up! :beer::beer:


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

MisterJJ said:


> rod deep in the shaft.


Hahaha... 

Sent from my Igloo


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

MisterJJ said:


> rod deep in the shaft.





Ponto said:


> Hahaha...
> 
> Sent from my Igloo


Nice to see that someone's paying attention. 

I got a report that the first 3d printed parts had been successfully created. I hope to hear from those that receive them.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Always! Nice work man. Keep it up. 

Sent from my Igloo


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

The parts are very well produced! I ordered almost all of them, only leaving out the extra length top rod. The guide "cones" for centering the drilling are excellent, both from a design and a production perspective. Kudos to MisterJJ :thumbup::beer::thumbup::beer:




MisterJJ said:


> I got a report that the first 3d printed parts had been successfully created. I hope to hear from those that receive them.


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

I can see sometime down the road that the rod develops problems. I then kick myself in the ass and say I should have purchased the lot when they were available. So....I bought the lot!


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## korben007 (Apr 21, 2010)

I want a rod 

Rory - Audi Customization Specialist


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

Tcardio said:


> I can see sometime down the road that the rod develops problems. I then kick myself in the ass and say I should have purchased the lot when they were available. So....I bought the lot!


24K Gold Rod?


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

TBomb said:


> 24K Gold Rod?


giving that to TP on a gold chain to hang against his hairy chest !


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## smj006 (Aug 9, 2016)

*Hoping your still making this part.*

I have a 2012 audi a4 and the white plastic shift pull rod has broken off just below the top of the metal tube when in the down position (hope that makes sense). Can this part still be made and of course im wiling to pay in order to avoid the massive dealer repair bill. If so do you need a measurement of how much was lost? I look forward to your help and any advise you can give. (Computer was not letting pm you for some reason.) 

Cheers and thanks ahead of time!


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

smj006 said:


> Can this part still be made


Repost:

You can now purchase 3d printed parts here: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/transmogrify

Rod - Needed if you failed trying to "heat and twist" or if you want a backup in case things go wrong. Pilot hole only - needs to be tapped.
Rod Long - Same as above but extra long for those who have broken off their shift rod deep in the shaft. Cut as needed. Pilot hole only - needs to be tapped.
Drill Rod - If doing the cut and tap method, this can be used to precisely locate the drilled hole in the shift rod piece that was cut off.
Tap Rod - After drilling, this can be used to get the tap perfectly straight and aligned in hole. Tap as far as possible then remove tool and continue tapping.
Drill Shifter - Used for getting the drilled hole in the shifter shaft rod straight and centered. Add some tape around rod first to center it in the shaft to make it perfect.
Tap Shifter - Used to get the tap perfectly straight and aligned in hole. Tap as far as possible then remove tool and continue tapping.

All of these parts have been made available for download and have zero markup in the cost. They are all "beta" versions and have not been tested yet. Let me know if there are any problems.


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## sprinta301 (Jun 7, 2015)

Thanks to Misterjj, he has created a 3D model that you can use if it is the plastic part is correct shape and size as it is for the A3 8p. 

http://www.shapeways.com/shops/transmogrify

Read the entire thread and inform yourself in the steps to follow. Good luck


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## ASyme1 (Sep 18, 2016)

MisterJJ said:


> To use an S-Tronic shift knob (front button) in a car equipped with a DSG shift knob (side button) the plastic rod inside the shifter post needs to be rotated. It is possible to heat and twist the existing part but it has been known to break.
> 
> Therefore, I am offering this part as a solution to broken shift rods or as an alternative to twisting the existing rod.
> 
> ...


Help! MisterJJ, I seriously need one of your slotted posts for my now broken DSG shifter. For some reason I can't PM you. Probably because I haven't posted on the Vortex in a LONG time. Anyway, I hope you see this post and have one of these lying around some where. Happy to pay whatever you think is fair for this part. 

Hope to hear from you very soon...

Thanks!!
Alec


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Just click on the link in the post above yours...Will take you directly to where you can purchase what you need.




ASyme1 said:


> Help! MisterJJ, I seriously need one of your slotted posts for my now broken DSG shifter. For some reason I can't PM you. Probably because I haven't posted on the Vortex in a LONG time. Anyway, I hope you see this post and have one of these lying around some where. Happy to pay whatever you think is fair for this part.
> 
> Hope to hear from you very soon...
> 
> ...


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

I don't need this now but I bought it anyways cuz one day **** will happen and I will kick myself in the ass if I dodnt order it


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## GohnJallo (Sep 20, 2016)

MisterJJ said:


> Repost:
> 
> You can now purchase 3d printed parts here: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/transmogrify
> 
> ...


OOOHHH this is neat! Damn, now I want to swap shift knobs to the front button. I didn't even know you could do this. What type of material is the 3D printer using? I'd be interested in getting my hands on the dimensions or part file to machine one out of aluminum myself.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Nylon is probably the best material. And it's the cheapest because of how they make it in bulk with other parts. Here's a video showing it:






I have all the 3D models available for download on Shapeways. Just go to the item and click the "Download Product" link.

Also on the product page is an option for other materials. You can get the rod in stainless steel for $8.43 or go baller and get the gold one for $488.56 (current market price, I suppose). All prices have $0 markup from me.

So... anybody here buy 3 Rod and 3 Long Rod? I'm wondering who would buy that many and why.


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## korben007 (Apr 21, 2010)

So should I buy one of everything for ease of use?

-Avantwerks Audi Customization Specialist


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

korben007 said:


> So should I buy one of everything for ease of use?
> 
> -Avantwerks Audi Customization Specialist


Ease of use was the point of me making the whole set. The pieces for tapping are mostly for convenience and aren't really needed as long as you are familiar with tapping and take care to keep the tap straight. Also, if you are cutting and drilling the existing rod you really want the "drill rod" piece but if buying the 3D printed rod you shouldn't need it since it has a pilot hole.

I was hoping to get some feedback so I could adjust the various pieces if needed. I'm not sure how accurate the actual parts come out and how they fit. But so far 38 pieces have been sold, including several of each one and I haven't heard of any problems so I guess that's a good sign.


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

MisterJJ said:


> Ease of use was the point of me making the whole set. The pieces for tapping are mostly for convenience and aren't really needed as long as you are familiar with tapping and take care to keep the tap straight. Also, if you are cutting and drilling the existing rod you really want the "drill rod" piece but if buying the 3D printed rod you shouldn't need it since it has a pilot hole.
> 
> I was hoping to get some feedback so I could adjust the various pieces if needed. I'm not sure how accurate the actual parts come out and how they fit. But so far 38 pieces have been sold, including several of each one and I haven't heard of any problems so I guess that's a good sign.


great product and well made and everyone should buy it for future issues. Sportback is not coming to USA ever. It is over so we have the last of the model. I am keeping mine forever. Its a classic


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## mfractal (May 16, 2005)

So if i didn't even start the job, didn't destroy anything at all lol which one should i buy ?


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

mfractal said:


> So if i didn't even start the job, didn't destroy anything at all lol which one should i buy ?


You don't need the "Long Rod". That's only for those who have tried the heat-and-twist method and borked their rod.

As previously stated, you don't need the "Tap" tools if you know what you're doing and are careful.

That leaves the "Drill Rod" to get the hole straight in the top piece you cut off and the "Drill Shifter" to do the same for the end in the shifter rod. You don't need the "Rod" piece but it's so cheap you should have it on hand in case something goes wrong.

There are ways to get the hole straight in both pieces, which has been mentioned earlier in this thread. You don't need to buy anything in that case but it requires a moderate amount of mechanical skills.


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## mfractal (May 16, 2005)

MisterJJ said:


> You don't need the "Long Rod". That's only for those who have tried the heat-and-twist method and borked their rod.
> 
> As previously stated, you don't need the "Tap" tools if you know what you're doing and are careful.
> 
> ...


Thanks ! To be safe i'll order both sides drill and tap pieces and a normal sized rod just in case something goes wrong. Promise to give feedback here after i am done.


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## cleanA3 (Jun 23, 2007)

Tcardio said:


> great product and well made and everyone should buy it for future issues. Sportback is not coming to USA ever. It is over so we have the last of the model. I am keeping mine forever. Its a classic


That's why I'm gonna buy your car tom and put with my car and have 2 classic's.


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## DC Dawg (May 13, 2012)

Resurrection of an old but fantastic thread 

Wow. These parts are a life saver ! 

I ordered a new rod and the tap and drill guides. 
And a few extras for some guys on Audizine 

1 question: mine snapped really just at the punch out - see below 









So is my best bet to cut the rest right at the outer metal sleeve and then attach the new rod with a grub screw as per instructions? That would be the correct height for the rod correct ?

Thanks !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## DC Dawg (May 13, 2012)

Resurrection of an old but fantastic thread 

Wow. These parts are a life saver ! 

I ordered a new rod and the tap and drill guides. 
And a few extras for some guys on Audizine 

1 question: mine snapped really just at the punch out - see below 









So is my best bet to cut the rest right at the outer metal sleeve and then attach the new rod with a grub screw as per instructions? That would be the correct height for the rod correct ?

Thanks !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## DC Dawg (May 13, 2012)

Resurrection of an old but fantastic thread 

Wow. These parts are a life saver ! 

I ordered a new rod and the tap and drill guides. 
And a few extras for some guys on Audizine 

1 question: mine snapped really just at the punch out - see below 









So is my best bet to cut the rest right at the outer metal sleeve and then attach the new rod with a grub screw as per instructions? That would be the correct height for the rod correct ?

Thanks !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## DC Dawg (May 13, 2012)

Woods sorry for the triple post. Not sure how that happened. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

haven't been in here for awhile but Mr JJ made an armrest latch which is really awesome on Shapeways. Thanks for the solution to a very common problem!


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Perhaps Mr. JJ is working on a front sunroof roller bow latch as we speak!! ( ͡ʘ ͜ʖ ͡ʘ)


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Glad to help with the shift rod but, sorry, no sunroof so no part to make model from.


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

I really appreciate your efforts, MisterJJ! My request was actually done in _somewhat_ of a humorous vein!



MisterJJ said:


> Glad to help with the shift rod but, sorry, no sunroof so no part to make model from.


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

I just replaced my rear bow today. Surprisingly easy but hard on the wallet for such a poor design


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## Mansor (Sep 6, 2021)

MisterJJ said:


> To use an S-Tronic shift knob (front button) in a car equipped with a DSG shift knob (side button) the plastic rod inside the shifter post needs to be rotated. It is possible to heat and twist the existing part but it has been known to break.
> 
> Therefore, I am offering this part as a solution to broken shift rods or as an alternative to twisting the existing rod.
> 
> ...


Hi Mr. JJ, do you by any chance still sell them? I really could use a cheaper solution then the sales man at Audi offers me.


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## EthanPP (7 mo ago)

Hello I’m also interested? Do you still have any spare part for sell?


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Go here and you can order them now: Transmogrify! by MisterJJ - Shapeways Shops




EthanPP said:


> Hello I’m also interested? Do you still have any spare part for sell?


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## 0207tipz (6 mo ago)

HI still available to order


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## 0207tipz (6 mo ago)

MisterJJ said:


> Made another batch.
> 
> PM me.





MisterJJ said:


> To use an S-Tronic shift knob (front button) in a car equipped with a DSG shift knob (side button) the plastic rod inside the shifter post needs to be rotated. It is possible to heat and twist the existing part but it has been known to break.
> 
> Therefore, I am offering this part as a solution to broken shift rods or as an alternative to twisting the existing rod.
> 
> ...


You selling any


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