# ***16vt Cabriolet Classic Budget Build***



## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

My budget cabby winter built. 16vt FTW! My budget for this budget turbo build was $2000 MAX-not including:beer: and Advil for the headaches. With patients and some luck i was able to purchase all the parts i needed via kijiji, ebay and most importantly the classifieds here on Vortex. The work was done by myself so this kept costs down. My goal is 220whp at 8.7psi- daily driver.

Don’t mind the messy engine bay- it will be cleaned up before it hits the road!

Specs:
•	1993 Cabriolet Classic (99% rust free) w/Original Paint
•	2.0 16v 9a (rebuilt 30,000km ago)- Full engine rebuild, incl new pistons, rebuilt cylinder head 3 angle valve job, block re-bored 1 size up
•	Precision 6031 60trim .63Ar
• Rebuilt 020 w/80% Shim Kit & Bolted Diff- TDI 5th Gearing
• 034 Motorsports 16v Turbo Header
• Lightened Flywheel w/Sachs Sport Clutch
• HKS SSQV Bov
• RMR Fuel Rail 
•	Autotech sport cams. I+E
•	Megasquirt V1-2.2. Spark and fuel. LC1 Wideband o2 sensor, for precise AFR integrated with Megasquirt.
•	AMS Adjustable FPR
•	Precision FMIC
•	Tial Wastegate (8.7psi)- Open Dump
•	Neuspeed 8mm Ignition Wires
•	Jegster Rad Fan+ Shroud
•	1989 CIS Fuel Pump (211lph)
•	Braille 12lb Sport Battery
•	BFI Oil Catch Can
•	Custom SS 3” Exhaust and DP- exit out passenger side (incomplete)
•	62lb Siemens DEKA EVI Injectors
•	42DraftDesign Vacuum Log Manifold
•	BFI Short shifter
• V-Maxx Coilovers 
•	16v scirocco calipers and rotors. HAWK pads
• 3:1 power steering rack for tighter steering
• Gold BBS RZ 15" wheels.
•	BFI lower control arm brace
•	BFI Rear Sway
•	Full Leather Carrado Front/Rear

Missing a bunch of items I am sure!

Started Like This:









Surgery:









Classifieds, KIJI Raid:









In Progress.....Picture is dated- I will update soon!









Engine is still a work on progress! I will post updates as they come. 

Enjoy!


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

I was going to suggest an 034 manifold, as I have an ATP/Turblownetics and it sucks. Seems like you have a good plan, only suggestion I'm going to make is get an 02A, or everytime you step on it a crapshoot if it will stay together. 

I kept my 020 2y with my holset hx30, and it sucks having to drive like there is egg shells under thegas pedal. Otherwise it sounds like you got a good plan together.


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

I tried an atp. Its now a paperweight on my bench! Brutal. Wg did not fit, Turbo had to be run cold side on drivers side, but it mashed the shift linkage. Atp is a waste! 

The 034 hits my short shift at the wg flange so I had to take an inch off of it..other then that its a beauty!


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

*My observations:*

ATP 16V Turbo Manifolds are terrible-see image below:









Problems you will/may encounter especially if you are running a t3/t4 can be found below:


WG does not fit
Your turbo hits your shift linkage
You will have to run your turn cold side on drivers side-but even so thier is space issues.
Terrible and dated design


*Better alternatives:*
034 Motorsports:









Note: With this manifold it places your t3/t4 intake extremely close to the side of the engine bay. You have 2.5" until the engine bay. your brake line and fuel line are also directly infront of your intake opening. Since this space is very tight your alternatives are to run a custom made mesh or find a VERY low profile intake cone-mushroom style. I will be tackling this on tuesday. I may rebend my brake line and relocate my fuel lines a few inches over- squeeze a 3" inch to 2.5" 90deg coupler if i can. See images below.









BBM:









*Vacuum Source:*
Easiest way to pull a vacuume source is not your brake booster or tapping into your fpr line. Simple tap into the existing cnc machined (capped) manifold hole on the left hand side of the lower manifold. Simply punch the cap out with a flat head and use the existing 3/8 threads to mount a vacuum fitting. Also, vacuum logs are your friend. 42draftdesign has a great one- comes in cnc or black. See image below.


















More to come!


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Dave926 said:


> I was going to suggest an 034 manifold, as I have an ATP/Turblownetics and it sucks. Seems like you have a good plan, only suggestion I'm going to make is get an 02A, or everytime you step on it a crapshoot if it will stay together.
> 
> I kept my 020 2y with my holset hx30, and it sucks having to drive like there is egg shells under thegas pedal. Otherwise it sounds like you got a good plan together.



Yea my theory is this. The 020 might hang around for a bit if i do not load the clutch, do burn outs and so on. I dont do these things anyways! The tranny is a fresh rebuild with tdi 5th gear-which is nice. It has all the proper "safety parts"- those being bolted diff, shim kit and such.

Also-trannys break at thier weakest point- so i have a weaker clutch. this will insure the weakest link is the cluth- if anything goes i replace a clutch plate here or thier. Keeping your clutch the weak point might sound silly, but it will save you a tonne fo money- better a cheaper clutch then a new tranny!

One 020 tranny is $150. A full 02a swap will cost $900 with all the fixings . I can replace the 020 several times. 

We shall see! Maybe a 02m in the future :snowcool:


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Update!

Found my way around my intake space problem.

http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=RX-4130-1









I will need to modify the inlet size as this one is .8" to large. Win win!


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Stangy said:


> Yea my theory is this. The 020 might hang around for a bit if i do not load the clutch, do burn outs and so on. I dont do these things anyways! The tranny is a fresh rebuild with tdi 5th gear-which is nice. It has all the proper "safety parts"- those being bolted diff, shim kit and such.
> 
> Also-trannys break at thier weakest point- so i have a weaker clutch. this will insure the weakest link is the cluth- if anything goes i replace a clutch plate here or thier. Keeping your clutch the weak point might sound silly, but it will save you a tonne fo money- better a cheaper clutch then a new tranny!
> 
> ...


Its not going to cost you nearly that much if you shop around. Mine, though not installed, cost me nothing lol.


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Dave926 said:


> Its not going to cost you nearly that much if you shop around. Mine, though not installed, cost me nothing lol.


True. One day it will happen! 020 until it blows


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Catch can in and fpr on. UPDATED PICS!
Bay:









Fan assembly:









Catch can:
Can anyone see the problem?









Completed my catcch can. I still need to make a vent though. Right now it feeds right into my aux air valve into my Vac Mani. When the engine is cold the valve is open but when warm it closes and essentially does not allow the trapped gases in the can to escape. I'm afraid this would cause backpressure into the crank case...hence the filter. What do u all think? My thought process is that when the aux valve closes it basically caps the Mani vacuum so I would need to release the pressure on the can side.


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Black hole represents filter which i will add. Will the valve be sufficent to hold boost? Will it seal enough to stop any vac leaks?

Should i just unplug it and run the can to atmosphere dammit! :banghead:


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Updates to come!


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Update:

*Catch Can:*
Ended up running the catch can to atmosphere (filtered) and deleting the auxilary air valve- which was causing weird idle problems anyways.


*Turbo Filter Update:*
Also- the K&N filter did not fit so i went with a SS mesh and one of these ITG filters- modified of course to fit the small space. See below for details.










*Fueling:*
I will be switching to a stock CIS fuel pump/filter rather then my digi2 and keeping my 315 cc injectors. Since the CIS pumps still flow 200+ph it is more then enough for my needs- yes, no need for the famous walbro 255lph pumps that everyone pimps outs. I will use MS and try my hand at the fueling at 1 pulse rate and see if i can get my injector volumetric efficiency to around 80% by rising the fpr pressure-starting at 3bar until i get it right. If i cannot get it down i will raise the pulse rate to 1.1 and start again.


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## sp_golf (Nov 28, 2007)

Get bigger injectors, those 315cc will be working hard to make 200whp


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

exactly what i said...440 at a minimum


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

sp_golf said:


> Get bigger injectors, those 315cc will be working hard to make 200whp


note taken!


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Picking up some 46lb injectors. Might as well. Plus at 3 bar fuel pressure I won't have to worry about the 46lb injectors working above 80%+ efficiency zone where as the 30# injectors would have been working upwards of 100%the unless I changed pulse width to 1.1 on my Ms.


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## sp_golf (Nov 28, 2007)

:thumbup:
If you need help with the tune let me know.

Sorin


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

sp_golf said:


> :thumbup:
> If you need help with the tune let me know.
> 
> Sorin


pm'd!


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Stayed tuned for my CIS Bosch Fuel Pump DIY


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## sp_golf (Nov 28, 2007)

Stangy said:


> Stayed tuned for my CIS Bosch Fuel Pump DIY


:thumbup:
Did that on my mk2 about 5 years ago. Try to use a new or lightly used pump, the one I put in started getting tired above 8-9psi, car kept leaning out on top end, pressure was dropping when it was using more fuel.


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

the cis pump should be good for 211lph and around 400+hp. How did it get tired at 9psi?


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## sp_golf (Nov 28, 2007)

Stangy said:


> the cis pump should be good for 211lph and around 400+hp. How did it get tired at 9psi?


Age. 
It would've been fine in a stock 90-110hp car but when that was 2x-3x it wouldn't flow enough fuel to hold pressure.
FWIW you can get a brand new walbro 255hp inline for about $100-130..


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Warning: Brake Clean + Weld= Death

Not to scare anyone but i read this article this monrning- and although i have never been in this situtation, i am hoping this might help some fabricators in the future!

http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm

:beer:


*Fuel Pump DIY:*
So my camera crapped out and i lost all my pics . I will however post up a step by step within the next few hours. :snowcool:

pss. Who knew a 20 year old car would have seized clamps and screws EVERYWHERE on the fuel system haha. Took me 3 times longer then it should have


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

*Update Time! *
Sorry for the cell phone shots.

Old 20yr old filter...ew:wave:








ps. Lots of rust on it..but the car is 99% rust free. Solid everywhere! Has not seen winter in the last 10years. Ill prove it...see below:laugh:

Boom...not a drop of rust. Crotch shot.








ps. The old exhaust is hanging..new will be 2.5" side exit.

There has been a lot of questions regarding vac logs. 42draftdesign makes one which i am using and its a great item to have.









Few questions about the SSQV-wanting closer pics. 









Waiting to start the DP! 2.5"









My DIY Turbo Inlet Intake. Simply an ITG filter sock (rated for 300whp) over a mesh (Home Depot) and a 3" coupler w/clamp. Tested the mesh for flow and its great-tested the filter and it flowed fine as well. It literally was the ONLY thing that would fit.









*Interior Shots:*
Took me an hour to clean the parts out of it...:banghead:. Threw the carrado seats back in for your viewing pleasure.









Back Seats-Done right.









Dash.









Full Frontal


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## wolfsberg321 (Feb 17, 2008)

SHOOOTS bro car looks mint!!! Can't wait to go for a rip to the hwy7 and martin grove tims and chill. Remember 2012 is the year of tha rabbit!


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Haha yea right. And another yea right- if we can get ur hunk of crap running


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Cut the 20yr old filter in half and you wouldent believe what i found....




it was flipping spotless!:banghead:. I dont even know how that is possible :thumbup:


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

ATP mani is made for 5 bolt T3/T4's. All of ATP mani's are designed for their setups. You can't buy the mani without buying the DP. ATP was the 1st & people made alotta power with them before Zornig (Racecraft) came out with his log style.

I would run the BOV & FPR vac line straight to the intake. Cleaner signal then you would get from the vac block.


And i would ditch that FPR. It sucks big time. That big plastic spacer in the middle will start leaking like a bitch. Ask me how i know. That's why they're giving them away on Ebay.


You catch can is totally wrong. The should be going to the valve cover. With a turbo setup, you need a large vent. You can't vent a non vented can. They work for different reasons. The way you have it now you're gonna be sucking oil right into the engine's combustion chamber.

Change that TB boot with a cut down 135 degree silicone connector. You're gonna blow a hole right through it.


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## Azazyle (Mar 25, 2010)

The tb boot has been changed. The can is set up correctly now..it's vented into atmosphere.


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Azazyle said:


> The tb boot has been changed. The can is set up correctly now..it's vented into atmosphere.


This is true. The eBay fpr's have never done me wrong in the past!


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Pic of the fixed catch can


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

These should help. 

62lb Siemens Deka EVI


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

So i received this yesterday-MK1 Raceland Upper Strut..flipping $45 new from thier website...did some test fitting and came up with this. 

Observations: 
It has terrible fitment, but i was aware that its not made for my intake- only scirocco. The mounting bars were not even the with of an mk1's mounting spots on the strut- i had to bend them with my hands!:banghead:. Other then that its a very nice bar..simple and clean. 

Pics: (sorry for the cellphone pics) 

Sort of what ti will look like 









Rubbing 









Rubbing 









Gap due to rubbing 










Direction: 
As you can see below i will be cutting back the bar to clear the throttle wires and fitting the cut with additional aluminium to keep the bar as rigid as possible. 

Cut outline: 
This cut would clear the throttle wire and the actuator. It is a fairly large cut. 









The bar should still be super rigid after the weld. I will polish the welded area and possible paint the bar as well. I will post pics up monday as i should be done this weekend with the cut and weld.


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

Stangy said:


> This is true. The eBay fpr's have never done me wrong in the past!


 ok..:thumbup:...opcorn:


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Capt.Dreadz said:


> ok..:thumbup:...opcorn:


 You sir are correct. To minimize any complications down the road I have purchased an aeromotive fpr. I sat down one day and thought to myself hummmm if the diaphragm does go on the ebay fpr, fuel will be sucked through my vac line, into my vac log and then into my BOV, waste gate, boost gauge and anything else attached to my log. Not worth the massive damage and danger it may cause. 

This project is becoming less of a budget build :facepalm:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

good to see it coming along 


strut bar is cool, but adding understeer to a naturally understeering car. use a lower tie bar, and weld in a brace from the outside of the strut tower to chassis. works wonders.


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## wolfsberg321 (Feb 17, 2008)

lol speaking of the "budget build" i would be interested in knowing how many people have attempted this so called budget turbo build. Just a thought


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

I'm only into mine for 1500 or so, maybe a bit more. Problem is not saving a few bucks on the initial build, but rather not getting excessive buying little things here and there adding power after the fact. 

On mine 18psi feels oh_so_****ing good, but now if I'm not careful it slips a bit. So there goes another 600 bucks on a clutch setup for an 02A, but then who knows what's next when 18psi gets boring.


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Vegeta Gti said:


> good to see it coming along
> 
> 
> strut bar is cool, but adding understeer to a naturally understeering car. use a lower tie bar, and weld in a brace from the outside of the strut tower to chassis. works wonders.


 The car already has front lower and rear lower bars. I have crossed it with 0 understeer, the back end slips out perfectly when needed! 

I am currently $2500 deep. Originally had a$2000 budget so I'm sitting in the budget categories still. Its the small unexpected stuff that adds up! If u are resourceful u can make it happen!


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Vegeta Gti said:


> good to see it coming along
> 
> 
> strut bar is cool, but adding understeer to a naturally understeering car. use a lower tie bar, and weld in a brace from the outside of the strut tower to chassis. works wonders.


 Can u show me an example?


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

My buddies supra 600hp+ project teaser..hand built in his shop. He has been great with helping me with fabrications! 



















Drool..:thumbup:


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Since i have not posted up anything lately..dont worry it will come! I have decided to post another cool project that myself and my supra buddy had put together for my 2007 cbr600rr race bike!

I will be posting up my Strut and exhaust fabrications update soon. 

*2007/2008 CBR600RR Exhaust Build:*
Take a look. Myself and another memeber put this bad boy together a while back for my 2007 cbr600rr race bike- thought i would post it up! My buddy is the welding master, i am simply the sherpa! :laugh:

Exhaust is SS steel with 4-1 header and 2.5" after collector with V-Band connection (yes on a bike haha). We also made CNC machined header clips (hold header to engine).This was matted to a 2.5" two borthers exhaust. Simply a for fun test go at an exahust build. Made less power down low and moved the power band way high- gained few WHP after 9000rpm. Ended up taking it off and running a two borthers header back as it yeilded better mid range which is what i needed. Never the less...and amazing build and learning experience. 

Custom 4-1 Collector:









Jig:









Sooo Fresh and Sooo Clean:









Up Pipe:









Done!:









On Bike:









Comments are welcome!:laugh:


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## sp_golf (Nov 28, 2007)

Looks good.. you'll have no problems making the DP then :beer:
What's your buddy's shop called? I may need a new downpipe for my car soon


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

sp_golf said:


> Looks good.. you'll have no problems making the DP then :beer:
> What's your buddy's shop called? I may need a new downpipe for my car soon


He is a millwright and does these projects for enjoyment in his company shop. Not sure if he would do outside jobs. When u know what u want let me know.


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Downpipe DIY coming this sunday! Upper stress bar is in the machine shop hopefully ready for sunday install. Then fluids and first start/tune coming soon!

P.S Anyone form Ontario looking for a great exhaust/exhaust parts, i.c piping suppliers, tubing and much more..check out Tri Canada in Mississauga. Super cheap and great service- they are a manufacturign company who produces a massive amount of S.S fittings, piping, v-bands, flanges and such.

http://www.tricanada.com/


:laugh:


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

The machining on the stress bar is finally done!










Cleeeeeeeean!

Now to weld some aluminium back into that hole to give the bar its regidity back!


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Bar just came back from cnc + shop for welding. Fitting asap! Pics soon.

Xmas already?



























Teaser of dp build:


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## jewish_ (May 20, 2007)

Honestly, that bar is pretty much doing nothing at this point. The bases would give to any chassis flex encountered, let alone, the bar will now allow torsion to occur. That thing is merely cosmetic.


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

I will have to do some testing on the car. Should still add rigidity. If not it wad a fun project which cost me next to nothing!:laugh:


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

*Downpipe Update: *
Quick update for anyone interested. About 90% done the DP, just waiting on one more cut and the addition of a V Band flange. Updates will happen accordingly. 

*Materials:*


2 90deg 304 stainless 2.5" pipes
4' of 304 ss straight pipe at 2.5"
1 4" flex pipe 304 stainless 2.5"
1 3.5" straight pipe in 2.5"
5 bolt ss flange
TIG Welder
Clamps
Beer


*Step by Step: (Applicable for 2.0 16v 9a with 034 manifold and t3/t4 60trim)*
Note: I have already doen the calculations for you. This should be a direct fit for the application listed above.



Cut your 1st 90deg albow down 1.75"- straight cut (yes this will now make your perfect 2.5" a slight oval)









Tack your 4" flex pipe to your newly formed 90deg elbow
Mount your 5 bolt flange to your existing turbo.
Test fit your new piece by hand and insure this clears your WG and shift linkage(if running 020 tranny) and get a friend to mark the angle with a perm marker.












Tack your peiace via TIG

Cut a 3.5" straight piece of your 2.5" piping and tack to to the end of your 4" flex pipe











Grab your 2nd 90deg 2.5" elbow and run it in line at a 90deg angle to your outlet. Mark via perm marker and tig.










Note: When mounted this peice must run flat the rest of your pipeing moving toward the back of your vehical. Insure you test fit this peice and mark the angle you will need to cut. If you do not cut this angle your exist angle will be into your chassis. 

Note: I will post this cut angle when it is complete. Should be done for monday and i will have pics fo the fitment + v band weld.


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

All done. The cut angle was 80deg. Test fit it and was about 1/2" off (hitting power steering shaft) so I have to rotate the entire pipe on the flange 1/2"clockwise and she should be ready to go!


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Update: Gauge wiring DIY to be up by this evening. Stay tuned. :heart:


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Downpipe almost complete. Thsi is what it looks like so far.









Went over the tie bar- to many mk1-mk2 guys are touching or tapping the bar while driving.


















*Super Simple DIY:*
Simple wiring for you guys/gals who want to wire up your guages but are to lazy/dont want to hastle with finding your wiring- especially with alot of you running custom wiring and so on. Use your fuse box dammit!

PS: Legend for VDO Gauges..
+: Positive 12v feed wire
-:Ground wire
G: Wire to sender 

Start with wiring all your guages together and leave a lead for your power source. I did the same with my grounds and grounded it to the body using a screw.









Then attach to gauges.









This is your fuse power connection- can be bought at your local hardwear store. Simple connects to the fuse of your choice. I used fuse #20 (license plate lights). Pull your #20 fuse, fill the slot with your new clip and replace the 10amp fuse into the two open slots located on the new fuse power connector. Please a second 10amp fuse into the open slot. Tuck and zip your wiring. Test- done.





















Enjoy.


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Full dp with v band. Not bad id say.



















PS. What is everyone's opinion on dp wraps?


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## wolfsberg321 (Feb 17, 2008)

Looks sick!


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

wolfsberg321 said:


> Looks sick!


Get your pos on the road!


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Looking sweet bud:beer:


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Update! Well I FINISHED the car today. Worked on it for 7 hours today and added oil and coolant, primed the Turbo, checked for leaks and did some last min instals/maintenance. See below for proper (there are several different ways yes) Turbo priming. As it sits it has no exhaust just a 2.5 dp. Exhaust will be put on as soon as tune is complete. Gunna be loud until then!:laugh:

Step 1:Add oil (4L w/filter change) +exhaust filter
Step 2: grab a beer
Step 3: check for leaks and inure oil feed and drain lines are tight and no kinks are found
Step 4: unplug coil connection to distributor + pull fuel pump fuse
Step 5:disconnect oil drain from oil pan and place catch can under line.
Step 6: turn engine for three 15sec intervals
Step 7: check line for oil drainage. 
*repeat step 6-7 if needed until desired oil is found

Step 8-10 involve beer so I won't bother 

Pics! She is awaiting tune on wed! Summer here we come!!




























Comments are welcome. 5 months of work. Woot!


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Congratulations duder! :beer:


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Thanks!. 

Did base tune on the car today with a friend of mine. Got it go idle nicely again around 14.5-15afr once warm. Starts at each turn of the key! Super loud without the exhaust (just has dp as of now).

Ended up grabbing a etx14 power sports battery from autoquest for $100. Same as the Dena ext14 just rebranded. Retrofitted the connectors and she works like a charm, even at 220cca. 

Used some spare stainless to make a makeshift wastegate dump tube. It will work for now! Not bad actually. Made it in 5min literally. Its actually a spare header pipe from a old cbr600rr project-pis can be found earlier in this thread. 




























Street tune and video tomorro!


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Here she is. 75% tuned. Just need a working VE table dammit! 


















Video of Idling after warm up + basic tune once I can find a way to load it! 


I will post my Ms file later on. The car under acceleration sputters and looses power for some reason. Has terrible power across the board. Ve table or something must be way off. Any takers? I was using auto tune for ve as well. Made little difference..I must be way off? 

I checked plugs. Bought new nkg iridium plugs gapped at .25. Check coil, distributor and wires...grrrr


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

http://www.2shared.com/file/08mZADsw/CurrentTune.html 

my full tune file as of today..ve looks wayyyyyyy off.


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

Made some adjustments to the table. Look better now. Here is a screen shot. Removed the cell enrichment that was set way to high I think causing the hicupping or so says the Ms manual. So I put it too 2500 kpa/s so I won't ever kick in. They said to tune ve to near perfection before using the inrichments. Test number 3 tomoro!


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)




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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

75% tuned. Just need ot tune in boost. Could not do so because it had the stock sachs clutch which dident hold squat in boost. Maybe 1spi..grr! 

ACT HD 4 puck Ceramic clutching going in on wednesday! Pumped tp be able to finally drive it to its full potential!


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