# mkiv fx-r wiring.



## elrich_d (Aug 6, 2008)

Alright looked through a few diys and wiring threads and want to make sure i have everything proper before i risk an electrical fire. 

I would like to keep all the wiring and relays looking oem so they will be going under the steering wheel area where the fuses and other relays are.
The fogs should be wired to turn off when the highbeams are on. I also think i will need to do something with the green/yellow wire @ the ignition switch so the low beams stay on with the high beams (bi-xenon)

Lastly both the fogs and hi/lo beams are hids.
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For the *FOGS:*

Relay (12v 40A): 
- 85 - high beam fuse #19 (side AFTER fuse)
- 86 - fog light fuse #3 (side AFTER fuse)
- 87 - euroswitch #8
- 30 - input to HID relay

HID Relay
- 85 - ground
- 86 - from pin 30 of relay mentioned above
- 87 - to ballasts
- 30 - power from 75X with 30A fuse

schematic found here with changes: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=37585

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For the *Hi/Lo driving lights:*

Relay
- 85 - Ground 
- 86 - low beam fuse #20 (side AFTER fuse)
- 87 - Output to hidballasts
- 30 - Input from 75X with 30A fuse

schematic found here with changes: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4871358

I really hope this makes sense. 

Thanks in advance :thumbup:


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## elrich_d (Aug 6, 2008)

calling the electrical gurus!


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## dennisgli (May 17, 2003)

I'm not sure what the questions is???

But why are you putting the relays under the dash? Why are you connecting them to 75X?


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## elrich_d (Aug 6, 2008)

question is do i have this wired correctly and safely. 

Reason im taping into 75x is i can get the 12v for the relays and hids from there as opposed to going to the battery. I hate seeing a hundred wires coming off the battery.


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## dennisgli (May 17, 2003)

First - the usual reason for installing relays for the headlights is to reduce the wiring resistance. Locating the relay between the battery and the lights minimizes the wiring length and resistance. Locating the relay under the dash is going to the leave the wiring the same length as going directly to the light switch. So I'm not sure why you are installing relays?

My relay setup only has two wires going to the battery - one to "+" and one to "-". And they are under the battery cover so you can't see them - so I don't understand the concern about "hundred wires". The relays and fuses are visible - but I think that's better than having the fuses hidden under the dash!



















Finally I'd be really concerned about adding all that load to 75X. The car is designed to have the headlights powered by 75. Using 75X may fry your load reduction relay.


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## elrich_d (Aug 6, 2008)

hmm ok that makes a bit more sense. No point to hide them if it means harder to get to them if a problem arises. 

if i changed the input points to battery would this work?

For the FOGS:

Relay (12v 40A):
- 85 - high beam fuse #19 (side AFTER fuse)
- 86 - fog light fuse #3 (side AFTER fuse)
- 87 - euroswitch #8
- 30 - input to HID relay

HID Relay
- 85 - ground
- 86 - from pin 30 of relay mentioned above
- 87 - to ballasts
- 30 - power from battery with 30A fuse

For the Hi/Lo driving lights:

Relay
- 85 - Ground
- 86 - low beam fuse #20 (side AFTER fuse)
- 87 - Output to hid ballasts
- 30 - Input from battery with 30A fuse


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## dennisgli (May 17, 2003)

So taking power directly from the battery eliminates the concern about frying the load reduction relay.

But I'm not sure I understand the purpose of all the relays. Let me make sure I understand what you are trying to do.

You are building retrofit headlights for a MkIV Jetta that will use a single HID "bi-xenon" for the high beam and low beam. So you need to power on pair of ballasts and a high beam solenoid. And they will have HID fog lights so you need to power another pair of ballasts for those.

What are you planning on doing for DRLs? Just use the low beams?

What are you planning on doing for "flash to pass"?

Why do you want the fogs to go off when the high beams are on? If you really want that I'd stick with halogen bulbs - it's not good to cycle HIDs on and off when you switch from high beam to low beam. What kind of bulbs do you fog lights use? Are they really HIDs?


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## elrich_d (Aug 6, 2008)

So taking power directly from the battery eliminates the concern about frying the load reduction relay.

But I'm not sure I understand the purpose of all the relays. Let me make sure I understand what you are trying to do.

You are building retrofit headlights for a MkIV Jetta that will use a single HID "bi-xenon" for the high beam and low beam. So you need to power on pair of ballasts and a high beam solenoid. And they will have HID fog lights so you need to power another pair of ballasts for those.

What are you planning on doing for DRLs? Just use the low beams?
*DRL's would like to be fogs*

What are you planning on doing for "flash to pass"?
*Dont need the flash to pass, never use that function*

Why do you want the fogs to go off when the high beams are on? If you really want that I'd stick with halogen bulbs - it's not good to cycle HIDs on and off when you switch from high beam to low beam. What kind of bulbs do you fog lights use? Are they really HIDs?

*Looks like an interesting feature to have. I dont see myself flicking my high beams on/off, would just use high beams for low lit streets*


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## dennisgli (May 17, 2003)

So this is what I'd do.

1) For the fogs and DRLs - disconnect and insulate the wire going to pin 3 (TFL) on the light switch. Connect a 15amp inline fuse to pin 3 (TFL). Connect the load side of the fuse to pin 8 (NL) on the switch and to the ballasts for the fog lights. (I'd still recommend skipping the HIDs for the fog lights - you never said whether they were halogen or HID fog lights.) If you want the DRLs to shut off when the hand brake is on that's a bit more work but I can tell you how to do that if you want.

2) Wire the ballasts for the bi-xenons to a 15 amp inline fuse connected to pin 7 (56*) on the light switch. You can just wire the solenoids to pin 9 (56a) at the headlights (or to one of the high beam fuses).

3) If you want to disable the "flash to pass" you can disconnect the wire going to pin 1 (30) on high/low dimmer switch. But I wouldn't bother since it will only work when the low beams are on - otherwise it will just click the bi-xenon solenoid but there won't be any power to the ballasts.

4) If you still want the fogs to go off with the high beams I'd get a 5-pin relay and wire it in series with the wire to the fog light ballasts. Pin 30 going to the fuse and switch and pin 87a going to the ballasts. Wire the relay coil (86 and 85) in parallel with power and ground going to the bi-xenon solenoid. And I guess since the relay will get power from the light switch and not the battery you could put it under the dash like you originally wanted to do!

Hope that makes sense. I'm sure there are plenty of other ways to wire things up but that is the simplest way I can think of.


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