# Vacuum leak, CEL, rough idle, torn PCV hose



## monsieur2 (Apr 24, 2007)

Sometimes my car dies on a cold start. Periodic power loss in low RPM range. See the VAG scan below.
While working on my car today (replacing throttle body gasket) I found this PCV hose that is torn:
location:

Hose (yuck!):

I'm going to wrap it with some tape until I can get a new part (let the search begin).
I'd like to get an opinion as to whether this could be the vac leak Vag-Com suspects, or if I should keep searching. Just got a new DV 2 years ago, so I'd have a hard time beleiving that the DV has failed again already.

VAG COM Scan:
--------------------
16804 - Catalyst System: Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold
P0420 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16395 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
P0011 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16685 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0301 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16686 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0302 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17705 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
P1297 - 35-00 - -
_Modified by monsieur2 at 1:25 PM 10-24-2009_


_Modified by monsieur2 at 2:51 PM 10-24-2009_


----------



## maddenbowler (Dec 17, 2006)

there is a cheap diy fix on here somewhere. It doesnt look the best but it cost less than 10 dollars.


----------



## maddenbowler (Dec 17, 2006)

well here it is but the pics are down
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3280795


----------



## monsieur2 (Apr 24, 2007)

*Re: Vacuum leak, CEL, rough idle, torn PCV hose (monsieur2)*

Thanks for the quick response. Read that article and some DIYs and was getting ready to wrap some tape around it as a temp fix and the whole thing just broke off (from the bottom section). The hose has a bunch of cracks in it too and looks difficult to get to. I went to Napa last time to replace a hose, but this one has a special shape so I might just order the EuroJet Lower T Hose. 



_Modified by monsieur2 at 4:08 PM 10-26-2009_


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: Vacuum leak, CEL, rough idle, torn PCV hose (monsieur2)*

Fix that leak, and pressure test your intake tract.. You most likely have several other leaks if your hoses are that bad.. At least I did..


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: Vacuum leak, CEL, rough idle, torn PCV hose (monsieur2)*

Here's a link to theswoleguys thread on building a pressure tester..
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2692757. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Tony Lane (Dec 1, 2007)

I have the same ****ing problem too. I bought the Y hose from Eurojet, and as I was installing it I noticed the lower T hose was cracked too. 
lol @ the PCV system on these cars. Headaches.


----------



## gtx4tec (Oct 20, 2009)

*Re: Vacuum leak, CEL, rough idle, torn PCV hose (monsieur2)*

Take a look at the 13th picture down..... 








Hopefully it's what you have on your car:
http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/t/269734.aspx
I used a dremel with a small metal cutting wheel to get the hard to reach (single use) metal bands off. In some cases I had to make a series of cuts (5+) in the raised crimp part and then push laterally through all the cuts (sideways) to finally separate the metal band. I did this for the PCV valve actually. Alternately you could just go full bore and take the whole assembly out as in pic 13, and work on it off the car. 

Also check out this thread, http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/t/1...dex=1 and the 13th post's picture








for your 17705 code. This pipe is a total #$#$%#%#%% POS design nightmare on my car.....stupid stupid, stupid, stupid,,, (can't say it enough!!) design. If you have that situation goin on, it's leaking for sure, especially if you feel the hose and there's oil on it.. 
It's simple job to get the hose off the car, and rig up one of the solutions in the thread....(thank god)
Best of luck!



_Modified by gtx4tec at 6:30 PM 10-30-2009_


----------



## breakscape (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: Vacuum leak, CEL, rough idle, torn PCV hose (monsieur2)*

I'm replacing the hard plastic pipe that goes from the infamous Y pipe that comes off the manifold. It's hard to see down there and I believe this pipe goes into a T-valve. I don't see any factory clamps where it fits in....any suggestions on getting it off? I've got the hose out but it ripped about an inch short. Any thoughts?


----------



## breakscape (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: Vacuum leak, CEL, rough idle, torn PCV hose (breakscape)*

anyone???????


----------



## monsieur2 (Apr 24, 2007)

*Re: Vacuum leak, CEL, rough idle, torn PCV hose (gtx4tec)*

Wow, excellent picture gtx4tec. Very helpful. Those hoses snake around so much it's hard to figure where they go. Well I finally got my hose today (stupid ground shipping) so I'm about to change it.


_Modified by monsieur2 at 1:00 PM 11-5-2009_


----------



## gtx4tec (Oct 20, 2009)

Best of luck, hope it goes well, slow and steady!


----------



## monsieur2 (Apr 24, 2007)

*Re: Vacuum leak, CEL, rough idle, torn PCV hose (monsieur2)*

So that 90 degree plastic elbow that connects to the cylinder head cover broke sure enough when I took it out (I tried to be careful). I epoxied it as per the PCV DIY http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3747836 and then it broke again when I was re-installing it. It broke in a different place. So I epoxied it again. Then it broke a third time. AHH! I'm going to VW to pick up a new one today ($90, 06A 103 213 AF). This obviously wasn't manufactured to withstand the materials flowing through it.


----------



## Hawaii5-0 (Apr 10, 2007)

*Re: Vacuum leak, CEL, rough idle, torn PCV hose (monsieur2)*

90 bucks, whoa! should have invested in a catch can and cleaned some of that clutter out of there. ECStuning sells the eurojet replacement for like $50, its the lower T hose.


----------



## breakscape (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: Vacuum leak, CEL, rough idle, torn PCV hose (monsieur2)*

Ok so I thought that I needed the oil block breather hose that attaches to the block from the T-valve but now I'm confused. I went to the stealership and bought 06A 103 213 F but what I pulled out of my car is 06A 103 213 AM. What's connected to the oil breather tube is 06A 103 245 F. Check out the pic: 








Question is...do they sell the oil block breather that is connected to 06A103245F or no? It seems all of us have to do this at one point or another so somebody's got the answer.


----------



## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

incase anyone searches this thread and comes up with the same problem
There are two variations to that part
first one being more L shaped thats shown below
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volks...3283/








the other being a stubby L pictured below








http://www.ecstuning.com/Volks...7938/


----------



## monsieur2 (Apr 24, 2007)

*Re: (Dub-Nub)*

My elbow for a 2001 Jetta 1.8T AWW was a 06A103213F. 
This is the top picture on Dub-Nub's post. I actually had to whittle down the outer diameter of the connection to the Eurojet lower PCV hose, because the inner diameter of this connecting hose was too small to fit over the flared end of the elbow. I didn't completely remove this, but just changed the angle to be a little steeper. It was such a tight fit that it was starting to tear the silicone lining of the PCV hose (even after I tried lubing it with some oit). Worked fine afterward.












_Modified by monsieur2 at 7:21 AM 11-14-2009_


----------



## AutoMeister (Jun 22, 2004)

I had to replace my top breather Y-hose and then the lower S-hose as both were torn and causing stalls upon start up, limp mode, and cyclinder misfires. Since I change the two hoses everything runs extremely smoothly for almost a week, thank God. Of course, the only way I could get the lower S-hose out and break off them clamp was to break the plastic hose that fits into the lower engine block.... what a mess. I thought inserting the new one would also be hard but ended up fitting in easily after I cleaned the hole thoroughly with a Q-tip and added some oil to ease it in... worked great!


_Modified by AutoMeister at 2:23 AM 11-18-2009_


----------



## RUbbish (May 7, 2007)

*Re: (AutoMeister)*

Just bringing this thread back up... 
but last poster, (AutoMeister)... you said you were getting cylinder misfires due to cracked pcv hoses? 
Is this possible?... running into a similar problem. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 

:EDIT: 
Yeah, so... Eurojet pcv hoses fixed my misfire http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by RUbbish at 7:25 PM 1-15-2010_


----------



## monsieur2 (Apr 24, 2007)

*Re: Vacuum leak, CEL, rough idle, torn PCV hose (monsieur2)*

Just a little update. I had the timing belt changed in December (car was just at 80kmi). The shop found a leak in the valve cover gasket they assume was causing the misfires. No codes for a few weeks after timing belt job, and now I have:
16804 - Catalyst System: Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold
P0420 - 35-00 - -


----------



## gtx4tec (Oct 20, 2009)

Ok I finally got around to replacing the lower PCV hose, (it was long overdue as it was already ghetto fixed from already breaking right where it connects to the upper Y hose). I was dreading doing this job.
Anyhow I ordered this autobahn88 ebay hose kit from "zenaracing"
$200...awesome price for all the hoses you get. Good hoses, and they fit nicely too, aside from having to trim 1/2 inch off the top of lower PCV hose, small compensation. No big deal considering the price tag.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...%3AIT
Anyhow, I can't believe how relatively easy this job was.
The trick is to remove the one small vacuum line on the front tray, that connects to the right side on the underside of the intake manifold (in the picture below it's the red hose). Also remove the one 10mm nut for the corrugated plastic air pump hose on the front underside the front tray, look for it, its' there.
One all this is done, the front tray moves completely off to the side right out of the way. 
"front tray"








Once that is taken care of, remove the metal bracket in directly front of the C clip. In the forefront of the picture below those wires are pressed into this bracket with plastic posts that simply pry right out with very little effort (and press right back in afterwards, no worse for wear). 
See where the screwdriver is? By removing the bracket, and two sets of wires connected to it I was able to get a pair of full sized vice grips right in there with lots of room to spare so I could grab right on to the clip. 
The metal bracket is only attached with one 10mm bolt on the left side of the bracket itself. You can slide the bracket off to the side, and down to get full access to the C clip so that you can grab it, and it comes right off, in one pull. 
Use the vice grips to put it back on as well. The C clip goes on on and off in a matter of seconds this way, no messing around. Forget about trying it with a long screwdriver from the top of the manifold like some have suggested.








I can't imagine doing it any other way. I found it was remarkably easy by taking these little extra steps. The C clip would have been a nightmare otherwise.
A quick note is to cut the old rubber hose off (pic below) of the plastic "L" tube so as not to break it, be careful with this tube, I could see how some people snap this thing by being rough with it (in picture "to block breather housing"... that "L" tube)








Got home from work at 6pm, and was taking it for a test drive at 7:30pm. I had nightmare visions of this taking all day on a Saturday.
Hope this helps someone else dreading the task.




_Modified by gtx4tec at 9:54 PM 4-16-2010_


----------



## xfordtech1 (Mar 30, 2012)

is this the same layout for 1.8t beetle?


----------



## carlb79 (Mar 21, 2011)

Excellent tips! My hands were to big to get under there without doing this, made the job really easy compared to trying to navigate with tray and bracket in your way.


----------



## abel81 (Aug 4, 2010)

What is the name of that hose that sits on the front tray?


----------

