# How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

I did some searching and couldn't find what I was looking for, so here is a how-to on replacing the hydraulic-bonded rear axle bushings in a MKIV. 
*Why do this at all: * Some MKIVs came with an oil-filled bushing which can crack and leak over time, causing clunks and poor handling. Mine weren't leaking, but they were cracked and the car is pushing 100K miles. I was adding bigger rear brakes and a sway bar at the same time, so I decided to just remove the axle from the car. I can't see how this could be done with the axle still in the car, but some people claim to have done it.
*Why do this yourself:* I already had the axle out of the car, so I figured it would be no sweat to have the machine shop press out the bushings. I was wrong. They took one look at it and said they'd never be able to maneuver it the right way in the press. I called the VW dealership and they said they farm the work out to another local machine shop. I called them and they claimed they'd never done one. I figured I better do it myself since I don't have all month to get this done. If you have access to a place that is willing and able to press them out / in for you, I would recommend it.
*Replacement Part:* Originally this was a non-replaceable item, just get a new beam if you need new bushings







. Now the replacement part is: 1J0501541C. I ordered mine from http://www.worldimpex.com, I think they came to around $60 for the pair. I asked about different versions of the bushing, i.e. an Audi TT bushing or a 337 bushing. The part number listed above is the same for all MKIVs, including the TT. It is a "bonded rubber mount", has no oil inside, and looks like this:








*Tools you will need for this job:*
1) A decent-sized cold chisel, and a Big Hammer, like this:








2) A garden-variety hacksaw with a removeable blade, like this:








3) A drill with about a 1/4" bit
4) basic hand tools, air is nice, but not necessary
5) I didn't think I would need this, but it turned out to be the case -- a Big Honking C-Clamp, this one has at least an 8.5" throat. Oh, and a couple of scraps of wood:









*Remove Axle:* 
1) Jack up car and remove wheels, obviously. Don't forget jack stands.
2) Disconnect brake lines, e-brake cables, and shocks (I left them dangling from the top mounts). Rotate the axle down and rest the rotors on the ground. Coil springs should almost fall out at this point.
_I removed my calipers, rotors, and stub axles also, because they are getting replaced. This made handling the axle beam easier, but not necessary if you are just doing the bushings_
3) Remove pivot bolt and nut, which goes through each bushing. The inner fender liner is in the way, but you can bend it back rather than removing it. You might want to support the axle in the center with a jack so it doesn't come dropping down as you take out the second bolt.

*Remove Old Bushings: *
1) With the axle on the ground, drill a couple of holes in the bushing to drain out the oil. Let it all drain out, you don't want it splattering around when you're using your Big Hammer.
2) With the chisel and Big Hammer, go to work on the lip of the bushing, driving it in the direction of the bushing on the other side, like this:








After a couple of hits it will start to look like this:








Keep driving it until you have it out. No need to burn it out with a torch, making a huge mess in the process. 
3) Now you have to remove the metal sleeve that was around the bushing. It looks like this:








Take apart the hacksaw, put the blade through the hole, and cut one slot in the sleeve _carefully_. With the axle standing up, the bushing housing is angled perfectly for this type of easy cutting. You want to cut through the sleeve, but not into the housing:








4) One slot is all that is needed to relieve pressure on the sleeve, allowing you to pound it out with the chisel:








Here is what the old bushing and sleeve look like:








And the empty housing:








5) *Repeat on the other side, stand back and admire your work.* My axle looked like a mess, so I borrowed a friends sand blaster and went to work. After blasting and priming, it looked like this:
















Just a little inspiration for you in case you're wondering why you tackled this job :biggrin: .
6) Go put your new bushings in the freezer.
*Install New Bushings:*
This part turned out to be a lot more difficult than I anticipated. I'm not sure if freezing the bushings did any good at all. Maybe the freezer wasn't cold enough or they weren't in there long enough.

1) Take new bushings out of the freezer. Try to fit them into the housing to see if they are even close. Mine were tantalizingly close, and I thought I could just tap them in with a hammer. Ha.
2) Check their orientation according to the diagram from the Bentley:








3) The problem is, the new bushings are rubber with a plastic sleeve, so the whole thing wants to give and rebound while you're hammering on it. There was just no way to get it started where it didn't pop back out of the hole when I hit the opposite side. There is a lead-in chamfer on both the bushing and the steel housing. My assessment: these chamfers need to be worked so that the bushing can get started in the hole. Break out a half-round metal file for the housing and some rough grit sandpaper for the bushing, and sand a nice gentle lead in on those puppies. I had hoped to get it done without filing metal, but in my case it was necessary. You might have better luck cajoling the bushing than I did. 
4) Spray a little WD40 on the outside of the bushing and set it up as shown with the Big Honking C-Clamp. Once you get it started it will look like this:








I was able to get it a little over half-way in using this method, but then it didn't want to go any farther. I hammered it the rest of the way using the Big Hammer. 
4) And viola! You're done. Now you get to do the other side!







.









*Final Analysis:* With a little perseverance you can do this. I would have much preferred to pay someone with a press to do this for me, especially after the difficulty putting in the new bushings. I had read where the frozen bushing just slipped right in, almost by hand. That was definitely not the case for me. I'll post up pics of the finished and painted axle once it is all assembled. On to other projects . . .

_Modified by RabbitsKin at 8:16 AM 12-4-2008_


_Modified by RabbitsKin at 8:19 AM 12-4-2008_


----------



## Banditt007 (Oct 23, 2002)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (RabbitsKin)*

nice write up!


----------



## groftja (Jul 19, 2004)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (RabbitsKin)*

Great job!


----------



## Banditt007 (Oct 23, 2002)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (Banditt007)*

looks pretty easy too. i have to replace my rear axle b/c its bent, wanted to know if you knew if the axle can be shifted similar to the subframe or is it bolted in one place (the hangers?) also are new bolts always used? torque spec super high or what. thanks.


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (Banditt007)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Banditt007* »_looks pretty easy too. i have to replace my rear axle b/c its bent, wanted to know if you knew if the axle can be shifted similar to the subframe or is it bolted in one place (the hangers?) also are new bolts always used? torque spec super high or what. thanks.

I didn't remove the body brackets that the axle mounts to, so I don't know if the holes are slotted to allow adjustment or not. There is definitely no adjustment in the pivot bolt. I plan on re-using the bolts, as they didn't seem to be a critical one-use part like the axle nuts. Torque specs aren't super high, I got mine loose without an impact gun.


----------



## enginerd (Dec 15, 2001)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (RabbitsKin)*

Next time try hitting the beam with a heat gun and putting the bushings in the freezer. This is how I did bushings before I got a press. From tantalizing close, to dropping right in. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Btw the factory brackets that bolt to the car are slotted so that you can adjust even toe on each side.


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (enginerd)*


_Quote, originally posted by *enginerd* »_Next time try hitting the beam with a heat gun and putting the bushings in the freezer. This is how I did bushings before I got a press. From tantalizing close, to dropping right in. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Btw the factory brackets that bolt to the car are slotted so that you can adjust even toe on each side. 

By the time I thought of the heat gun, I already had it painted. Well glad to know there is another method for people to try.


----------



## tdigearhead (Mar 8, 2004)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (RabbitsKin)*

Exceptional! Thanks for your work on a topic sorely needing doccumentation. I just ordered a 6-ton shop press for the rear LCA bushing (mines cracked). Thanks,


----------



## Kaimera (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (RabbitsKin)*

thx for the write up , im gona do mine next week ,


----------



## paramedick (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (Kaimera)*

Instead of the freezer, get some dry ice. Works great and cools/shrinks quickly. Preferred method to replace bushings in the aviation industry.
Many welding supply houses stock dry ice. It's cheap. Take a cooler with you to pick it up.


_Modified by paramedick at 2:04 AM 6-15-2005_


----------



## El Romano Loco (Sep 8, 2000)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (enginerd)*

Perfect. Someone aked the same question I was gunna ask, and then answered too! I love the search option, I would of never found this. 
I took my car in for an alignment and they told me my right rear left wheel as excessive toe-in, and the right one toe-out







This is causing the whole car to sway back and forth at high speeds(autobahn mind you). He told me he had never seen this and that I needed a new rear axle... I priced one for $600+. 
But know if you say that there is an adjusment, then I will damn look and see what I can do before spending all that money... 
Thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








Adrian


----------



## AutoXMan (Aug 7, 2002)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (El Romano Loco)*

Sweet!


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (AutoXMan)*

UPDATE: Here are some pics I snapped of the finished and installed rear suspension. Too bad it won't stay this clean







:








































_Modified by RabbitsKin at 8:22 AM 12-4-2008_


_Modified by RabbitsKin at 11:37 PM 4-14-2009_


----------



## VR6MKIV (Feb 21, 2003)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (RabbitsKin)*

Just wanted to say thanks for the writeup. I just did this tonight and even with a press, it was still a pain in the ass. It took me six hours to complete but I was taking my time. Anyways, a word to the wise, if you are going to use a press, make sure you have a buddy with you. I left my rotors, calipers, and sway bar on and the whole unit probably weighed in at around 80-90 lbs. This is a difficult thing to hold up by yourself. The whole process was not difficult but god do I hate doing brake flushes.


----------



## Jopn (Oct 22, 2004)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (VR6MKIV)*

does that website still have this product? because I can't find a site that does.


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (Jopn)*

Just call them, they can look it up. Ask for Justin.


----------



## Jopn (Oct 22, 2004)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (RabbitsKin)*

I don't have a heating gun, and the only thing i have is an acetlyne torch or propane. Would this get it to hot causing the plastic on the bushing to melt?


----------



## crazymoforz (Jan 19, 2006)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (El Romano Loco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *El Romano Loco* »_my right rear left wheel as excessive toe-in, and the right one toe-out







This is causing the whole car to sway back and forth at high speeds

i have the same problem, but my car pulls to the left and my sterring wheel is about 35 40 degrees to the right so i could keep the car straight. also my tires have major cuppage.







im glad that someone had pointed this out so ill go under my car tommorow to see if there is any adjustment.


----------



## pair o' dubs (Oct 28, 2001)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (crazymoforz)*

These bushings are the last thing to install. I've replaced all other suspension bushings so far... but need to drop the rear beam - and I've never done this before. 
Thanks for the write up.
m.


----------



## briang (Mar 10, 1999)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (RabbitsKin)*

awesome write up! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Silverbullet1980 (Dec 6, 2003)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (RabbitsKin)*

Nice write up. I just completed mine with no issues, except i found it very hard to use a c clamp and wood to push the bushing home. The bushing kept tilting over and it wouldn't go in straight. easy way around this, i had got a 7" long bolt, and a nut to fit, along with a few huge washers. i was able to put the washers on both end and i used the bolt and nut to pull it togeather. no more bumps and bangs under my car its perfect. 
Cheers
John


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (Silverbullet1980)*

To anyone who has done this, did the new bushings make much of a difference?


----------



## 9 (Apr 30, 2001)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (VgRt6)*

so can you drop the axle enough to press the bushings out without removing the hard brake lines?


----------



## jamesb (Mar 14, 2001)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (9)*

Just have to disconnect those short pesky flexible lines from the chassis to the axle.


----------



## 9 (Apr 30, 2001)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (jamesb)*

by disconnect you mean unclip? or disconnect and ill have to rebleed the system?


----------



## bpederndern (Nov 26, 2002)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (9)*

you have to disconnect them......or you risk damaging them if something slips and weight comes down on the lines.
here's a trick i alway use.....when you disconnect the lines, twist one of the rubber bleeder caps into the female opening.....it's a tight fit, but can be screwed in with a little force. this keeps all the brake fluid from gravity bleeding while you have the axle off....and makes less of a mess. This usually only requires a quick bleed of the front and then the rear. just my experiences and i have not had any problems with doing it this way. Ymmv.


----------



## XM_Rocks (Jan 29, 2005)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (bpederndern)*

Any other feedback on how hard this job is to drop the axle?


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (XM_Rocks)*


_Quote, originally posted by *XM_Rocks* »_Any other feedback on how hard this job is to drop the axle?

I would like to know as well. It seems pretty straightforward to me though.
Unbolt brake line
Unblot shock
Unbolt axle beam from body (where the bushing is)
lower axle beam
Am I missing anything?


----------



## rono1 (Apr 23, 2002)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_To anyone who has done this, did the new bushings make much of a difference?

X2


----------



## mescaline (Jul 15, 2005)

are there any aftermarket bushings instead of using OEM ones? Some that will hold a little better?


----------



## Mr Black (Jan 20, 2002)

*Re: (mescaline)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mescaline* »_are there any aftermarket bushings instead of using OEM ones? Some that will hold a little better?









Aftermarket bearings...from Shine Racing or Bildon I think.
PS shoudln't you be using some sort of grease instead of WD40? WD is penatrating fluid, NOT lubricant. I used WD to slide poly bushings onto a swaybar and it was a ngihtmare. Realized my mistake, switched to white grease and it slid on like a charm.


----------



## Luke9583 (Mar 17, 2005)

Nice write up. It's a lot more different from the mk2/3 than I thought!


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (Luke9583)*

As far as how to do this without dropping the axle.....guys, I just don't see any way around it. The bolt that goes through the bushings is what is holding the axle to the chassis. I suppose you could take out the bolts and drop it down a few inches, but then you'd be working upside down and have no leverage for, say, swinging the hammer. 
By the way, whoever suggested using a big bolt and some washers to draw the bushing into the housing -- that's a great idea! Wish I would have thought of it, but the C-clamp method still works.


----------



## davey_boy (Aug 4, 2007)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (RabbitsKin)*

Awesome write up, wish i'd have seen it before taking this t**t of a job on. I did everything same as but used a set of spring compressors to pull the little bleeders in. I have to admit i didn't line up the bushes as per your diagram, does anyone know why the bushes have to be orientated like this apart from the obvious, 'cos it says so in the book'. Thanks


----------



## dremhmrk2 (Sep 19, 2003)

May be doing this soon, any update on sources of new bushings?


----------



## DbLog (Feb 13, 2007)

*Re: (dremhmrk2)*

Edited for correct link
http://www.tdiparts.com/catalo...d=769


_Modified by DbLog at 12:56 PM 12-15-2007_


----------



## DbLog (Feb 13, 2007)

I did it with the 'bolt and hammer' method. Made a 'custom' spacer to keep the bolt from going crooked while wrentching on it.










_Modified by DbLog at 12:08 PM 8-24-2007_


----------



## pair o' dubs (Oct 28, 2001)

*Re: (DbLog)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DbLog* »_http://www.tdiparts.com/catalo...d=669

That link is for the FRONT control arm - the rear most bushing in the front LCA. This write up is for the rear axle beam bushings. Totally different parts/writeups.
m.


----------



## DbLog (Feb 13, 2007)

*Re: (pair o' dubs)*

My fault on the link. I know what this writup is for..I replaced my rear bushings. Everything else I said applies. 


_Quote, originally posted by *pair o’ dubs* »_That link is for the FRONT control arm - the rear most bushing in the front LCA. This write up is for the rear axle beam bushings. Totally different parts/writeups.
m.


----------



## diegun (Oct 22, 2007)

hi Guys. I am new in this forum and this is my first post.
I am replacing rear axle bushings. I bought some Energy Suspension poly bushes. Tomorrow i will fit the rear axle to its position but i do not know if the screws need to be tightened with a torque wrench. Can you help me with this, please?

PS. is there a thread where i can introduce myselt or i just start posting an that's all?


----------



## tweaked2.0 (Dec 6, 2006)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (RabbitsKin)*

I am about to take on this project this weekend. After talking to a couple people who have done it. It can be done with out removing the beam. 
Just undo the front 2 bolts and the long bolts that hold it to the frame and have just the shock bolts on also support beam with a jack.
After market polly bushings from
http://www.suspension.com/volks.htm part #15.3118


----------



## lokihaus (Jun 2, 2004)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (tweaked2.0)*

Oh my goodness... my back is almost broke from hammering on the lip of that bushing. I was thinking, hey I can just leave it attached via the shock bolts and try to get it out. I'm glad I did not because it needs a HUGE amount of force to get the bushing out.
Also, after pounding and pounding (still not out yet) I think I've realized that I DO have the rubber bushings after all (but I have been getting a major klunking noise back there, so it's gotta be the bushings fault). 
Anyone else try to take out a rubber bushing? I'm trying to use my normal hammer w/ a crow bar and I'm spent! I'm going to go pick up a cold chisel and Big Hammer tomorrow.


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (lokihaus)*

Umm, your clunking could be shock mounts. Wayyyyyyy easier to change out as a first guess


----------



## vwtechryan (Aug 11, 2006)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (davey_boy)*

the bushings have to be put in this way due to they are designed to go in that way and the bushings are angled to go into the axle mounts one way and if you do this incorrectly you cant get the axle back in and it is a absolute whore to get these bushings out and back in with out destroying them or throwing a tool and cursing the gods for making you so stupid for doing this wrong


----------



## Hexar (Jul 23, 2007)

Found this thread through google search.
I know this is a MK4 car, has anyone replaced the rear axle bushings on a MK3 Jetta? 
I have an 99 A3 Jetta, that needs the bushings changed baded, it weavs on the highway and feel really loose when driving over the bumps, and when I push the car sidways at the rear door area, it swings sideways considerably, I can see the bushings are "gone" badly.
I am thinking to change them, however, the proportioning valve is mounted on the rear beam axle, and I could not figure out a way to take it off without breaking it. There are 2 screws that hold the valve to a metal bracket that is weld to the axle bracket, but that 2 screws are very soft, easily get stripped.
Has anyone taken the proportioning valve off successfully? What is your trick?
Thanks,
Wenbiao


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*Re: (Hexar)*

I had to bring my A3 Jetta to the shop to get that proportioning valve off. It's real hard to do in the driveway....


----------



## .:RyouExperienced (Sep 19, 2005)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (enginerd)*


_Quote, originally posted by *enginerd* »_Btw the factory brackets that bolt to the car are slotted so that you can adjust even toe on each side. 

Anyone ever verify this?
*edit: Bentley states "Individual toe values are not adjustable. Toe can, however, be equalized or balanced to a certain extent by by moving the rear axle beam mounting brackets slightly."


_Modified by .:RyouExperienced at 3:33 PM 3-4-2008_


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (DbLog)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DbLog* »_I did it with the 'bolt and hammer' method. Made a 'custom' spacer to keep the bolt from going crooked while wrentching on it.









_Modified by DbLog at 12:08 PM 8-24-2007_

Thats the way i did it. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Ryan Sickles (Mar 10, 2005)

*Re: (O2VW1.8T)*

Bump.
For those that have done this, what kind of mileage did you have and was it a noticeable difference?


----------



## dimsum (Jan 19, 2005)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (RabbitsKin)*

Has anyone tried other bushings like the Energy stuff? I know that FastVWs also carries poly stuff.
Regardless, what are the differences after the install


----------



## Sc0 (Feb 1, 2002)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (dimsum)*

I inserted a new axle beam a few thousand miles ago with newer bushings. The new bushings seem not as heavy duty as what was on my car originally, 2002 GL TDI. The OEM bushings on my original axle compared to the newer bushings is like the control arm bushing verses the TT/R32 version. I was dissapointed when I noticed the difference but went ahead and installed them as I had no choices.
Poly squeeks, sphericals rattle/knock and wear... Not considered for a race car but street cars are different...


----------



## th31nfamous (Mar 2, 2008)

Just did it.. but i think i installed the bushing in the wrong way... Is the !lining mark" is suposse to face the ground or the sky?? I installed them facing the sky... the axle is bolted to the car at this time but the rest insn't installed. If i installed it in wrong position.. will I have a problem.. if so what it will be ??? Thanks again for this DIY..


----------



## Ubergreendubber (Aug 8, 2008)

Alright, my situation differs slightly but along the same lines. My rear axle is bent due to an a**hole in a Ford Countour. Not sure if I'll have to replace the bushings yet if I can find a donor axle with decent bushings. 
But anyway, my question pertains to the time it took to drop the axle and put it in without accounting for the bushing install. 
I don't have a garage to do this at home so I have to do it in the body shop I work in over the weekend. Im just curious to see if this is a feasible project for the weekend. And I'd also like to know what the torque specs are when installing if someone has them available. I don't have a bentley.


----------



## hightide (Aug 5, 2006)

*Re: (dremhmrk2)*

Are TDi bushings compatible with other MKIVs.
Also saw some at germanautoparts.com.

http://www.germanautoparts.com.../30/4


----------



## MK4FAST (Aug 1, 2008)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (dimsum)*

I was having major rear tire wear, I was going through tires like oil.








Les Schwab said I had a bent spindle or that my rear axle beam was bent. I was like yeah OK how did that happen?








I have lifetime alignments at Firestone and my rear toe was the only thing that was way off. Toe specs for 337 or sport suspension are: rear toe specified range is -0.09 to 0.57. 
My Actual was Left: *-0.43*, Right: *-1.44*
That is way off, Major tire wear.















I just got done installing the Energy Suspension rear axle beam bushings part# 15.3118r.
I did it without removing the rear beam from the car, I left the shocks hooked up, and took out the C-clips that hold the brake lines and one bolt on the passenger side that held a bracket up to the body, also unsnapped the lines from the plastic clips, I also unplugged the wheel sensor. I took out the rear bushing bolts and lowered the axle beam slowly and watched my brake lines so I didn't bend or pull on them. U might need to loosen the shock mounts a little bit, NOT all the way for some clearance.
I used a cold chisel to get the stock bushing out, and then a hacksaw to cut the sleeve and then some hammering with a flat-head and the sleeves came right out.






















The poly bushings go in so much easier than the stock ones. Use enough silicone spray and they slide right in.
Bolt it back up, but don't tighten the bolts all the way till u have the wheels back on the ground. 
I had to remove the shock mounts after I was all finished putting the poly's in to get the rear bolts to line up, One side went easy but the other side was a being mean








Put your clips back in the brake lines, bolt the bracket back up, and then plug back in the wheel sensor. Use a jack under the springs to bolt the shock mounts back up.
Put wheels back on lower the car and tighten the two bolts. ALL Done, time to relax








Then U Need an alignment.
I have already done the front control arms with the ECS Poly/Heavy Duty kit. 
My car is so much smoother on the freeway and it hugs corners like a brand new car. My car is 8 years old almost 9.




















































_Modified by MK4FAST at 11:48 AM 8-12-2008_


----------



## brizower (Mar 27, 2007)

I'm about to tackle this when I get back from vacation. I'm going to try to keep the rear axle in the car since I have access to a lift, I will probably disco the brake lines though since I'm sure the fluid is from the factory and the car has 85kmi on it.


----------



## dvf2001 (May 24, 2008)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (RabbitsKin)*

I don't see the pictures associated with this 1st post. Are the photos available anywhere else? I hit a high curb with the rear left wheel and since then my steering wheel is about 30 degrees off center and the car pulls to the right. I have a 03 TDI wagon and I am hoping that the bushing replacement will take care of the problem. What does everyone think?


----------



## dStarAuto (Mar 25, 2008)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (dvf2001)*

DVF, it sounds to me like you bent something... If you jack up the rear, does everything look straight?
Also, if your steering wheel is 30 degrrees off center and you only hit something with your rear wheel then the rear wheel would be at such a sharp angle you'd see it just standing next to it. You're sure you didn't hit something with your front wheel too...?








-Paul


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (dvf2001)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dvf2001* »_I don't see the pictures associated with this 1st post. Are the photos available anywhere else? 

I can see them just fine...

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


----------



## dallas04gli (Jun 25, 2007)

posted for a future diy. good writeup.


----------



## Markhall (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (dallas04gli)*

Im in the same boat right now...Just got out of the Hospitial...Had my car wheels lined up, And my rear drivers is turning in 30 deg. Like my drivers rear is taking a right hand turn....
I can grab a PRY bar and move the bushing to get it closer to spec...Did not see if the mounts have a slot for adjusting..(what years had the slott?) .If i could that would solve the problem i think...Its only 30 deg. All the others are fine, the passenger side is in perfect tollerences...
So question is....Did the bushings help out your huge rear toe in problem?
Are there slots in the mount for the rear on a 99.5 jetta? Its a VR6 GLS
I have no clunking what so ever...And my tire is getting a little scalping going on...Just the rear...
I'm going to throw it up on the lift in a day or two, when i can move again...But i am looking for insight? 
Questions: Are the rear mounts slotted on 99.5 jetta? Can you just replace that side? Can you drill out the holes for more adjustment? Or add one from a newer car?
Did the bushing help your problem? Was there any play in the wheel before the bushing replacement? 
I did go ahead and buy a new axle stub, thinking it may be a STUB, but i dont know how often these bend, and i was thinking more, would it not make a wheel bearing go bad if it was bent? 
I also can not see any damage at ll, looks like a normal car...Again its 30 Deg. not much, you can see it if you look when the wheel is on..
Thanks for your help! Please let me help you!! Just ask!
Sorry for the bad spelling, Bad keyboard...lol
Thanks for the help!
If anyone i around New England that is good with the problem, Please let me know.. Money...Product...Computers, I'll make it worth your time.
[email protected] contact.


_Modified by Markhall at 12:38 PM 10-14-2008_


----------



## Greengt1 (Aug 27, 2006)

*Re: (Markhall)*

Sorry to hijack a little.....
but please dont send this guy anything.. He IS A CROOK! Where R MY ROTORS DAVE???
he has prommised me my rotors for months now... i have even sent him money to send them back and have gottten nothing but voicemail...
please make this right,.... i dont want to have to take legal actions...!


----------



## fiveseven (Jun 11, 2006)

*Re: (Greengt1)*

Humm. My new bushing defiantly dont look like the ones you guys have.
These guys at Moron Falmouth better not have given me the wrong stuff. I'll have to go apes*@$ on them.

















_Modified by fiveseven at 1:36 PM 11-12-2008_
Humm just seems like I didnt get something.. in one of the photos the bushing is on the outside of the mount.. like it has some sort of dust cover or something. I dunno. Probably just trippin


_Modified by fiveseven at 1:52 PM 11-12-2008_


----------



## Sc0 (Feb 1, 2002)

Those are the "new" style bushings!
Have a couple thousand miles on them and they feel "loose" to me and give me a "floaty" car... Have some poly's to replace them with when I get some time...


----------



## miotch (Nov 27, 2006)

planing on doing this soon. i know he went over the tools needed for the bushing replacement but does anyone know if you need anything special to remove the rear beam axle


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (miotch)*

OK guys, I haven't checked on this thread in a while. I just fixed all the broken picture links. I figured after they put this in the DIY section they would have a way of hosting the pictures permanently, but I guess not. Not sure why my picture hosting site alters the links over time, but who really understands the ways of the interwebz. 
Anyway, pictures are fixed! Glad to see people are finding it useful.


----------



## brizower (Mar 27, 2007)

I have had bushings for about 3 months now, and this idea just came to me...

My roomate picked up a harbor freight press a couple weeks ago, so I am thinking I will lay the press down on it's side and use it to press in the rear bushings, combined with heating the axle and freezing the bushings I think it should be cake. And a little lubrication also never hurts...


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*Re: (brizower)*

Ca-va FTW. Let us know how this goes. If it's possible, then all you'd really need to disconnect are the bolts through the bushings, and you could leave the rest all assembled.


----------



## brizower (Mar 27, 2007)

*Re: (zak)*

speaking of CA-VA, DBUS should be changing his too some time. He's needed it for about 2 yrs now.


_Modified by brizower at 3:59 PM 12-11-2008_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

So, I've been trying to do as much research as possible on rear poly bushings... what is the verdict on them? I just put a new rear beam in and one side is toed in and the other out, so I'm going to need to get under there and try moving things around. Should I pick up a set of poly bushings and have at it? Are there any issues w/noises or anything w/them? Any feedback would be great. I've read a couple of scarce, mixed results leaving me more confused on the topic. Great DIY http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_So, I've been trying to do as much research as possible on rear poly bushings... what is the verdict on them? 

Don't know if you read this, but you may find this useful:
Why (Rear) Poly Bushings Are Bad


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (abawp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *abawp* »_
Don't know if you read this, but you may find this useful:
Why (Rear) Poly Bushings Are Bad

Thanks for the link. I've looked over that a few times. Then in this thread in particular I noticed a couple of users who had poly bushings. The more I search, the more conflicting info...


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Hopefully this doesn't add to your confusion, but this is the way that I look at poly bushings. Not trying to start a debate on this, just stating my thoughts.
Taking a look at the nature of poly itself, it is stiff, rigid, and resists movement. The basic principle of the suspension is based on movement of control arms in order to function properly (i.e. give you comfort, compliance absorbing road irregularities (grip), and predictability for "handling"). So you are putting in an object that is restricting movement into a movement critical application. This means you are reducing compliance/range of motion of the suspension (remember, poly resists movement), reducing your comfort, grip, and messing with the predictability of the suspension.


----------



## Sc0 (Feb 1, 2002)

Not to flame:
The purpose of adding coilovers, stiffer springs, and sway bars somehow makes the handling better and still offers a compliant ride? I am not sure if anyone has installed poly axle bushings in an otherwise stock suspension car. If that's the case perhaps "they" can offer up known experiences and handling characteristics? I am also thinking 400lb springs and a 2" drop with a rear sway bar are not installed by people wanting a plush handling car... (A stock suspension car is not very predictable and is considered a marshmallow squishy feeling, not very confidence building IMHO...)
Also, the range of motion is minimal with any type of performance springs and shock setup. Unless you have a "long travel" suspension I really don't think that the animation is correct for real world use. I do see durability as an issue but the newer style bushings are a severe let down in that department compared to the older type.
I haev some poly bushings to go in and to replace some new style OEM bushings that I just don't like.... I haven't done it yet because it's a PITA to remove the OEM style bushings with axle in the car... but will do it sometime soon.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Well, I actually am trying to inhibit side to side movement and front to back movement. Obviously some up and down movement is necessary though. I mean... What poly options are all out there? Do the squeak? Is there a noticeable difference in responsiveness? Does the car have more "regular" rear camber and toe? I mean... I sort of am following with Sc0 on this one. I put a 28mm RSB on so I could try to make the back of my car act more as one unit. I am putting TT225 spindles + LCAs + bushings on to try to get better LCA angles and a better camber curve. I have Koni coilovers that are cranked the entire way up with dampening up pretty high as to minimize body roll and generally make the car more "predictable." 
I guess what I'm saying is I'm hoping someone can maybe offer some real world info. I've read a couple of people, but they haven't come back a couple of months later to re-report or anything. Squeaking is a real issue. Also, if there is some sort of binding issue as depicted in the prior link, that could be an issue. I just haven't heard anyone say there is or isn't definitively.


----------



## Sc0 (Feb 1, 2002)

Bump: In another thread it was mentioned that polyurethane glue can be added to OEM rubber bushings to make them stiffer. This is a great idea to apply to the newer style axle bushes as purchased from VW. Fill in the voids effectively making them more solid, and perhaps more durable than Poly. So for those that are planning on this, it's an idea vs. going poly or spherical. Though from a price point, a tube of polyurethane glue and oem bushings come to the same amount as poly's and are a pain to install!


----------



## glimark (Jul 31, 2007)

*Re: (Sc0)*

hey guys well i found out my beams bent so i got a used one from vwunderground 
i want to change the bushings but i noticed a brake line that is connected to the frame rail and the beam 
heres a pic








and i read the whole thread and is this where the brake line has to be disconnected? 
i remember in autos class back in highschool we used some kind of clip to block the brake fuild from being pushed back into the bake lines when doing brakes and instead go out the bleeder 
is this the right idea of going about this?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Does anyone have any thoughts on the spherical bushings for the rear beams? I'm going to need to put a new rear beam in my car... so it's likely to get either polys or spherical bushings. Anyone? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## fiveseven (Jun 11, 2006)

My car is in the air right now because I cant find a shop to press the bushing.. gotta find some dry ice or something. Lexus is $%@#ing at me because its not out yet.


----------



## fiveseven (Jun 11, 2006)

Use a ball joint press and squeezed these things in there. Talk about tight.. I didnt expect it to go in that hard.


----------



## rhastaVW28 (Jan 28, 2009)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (RabbitsKin)*

Thanks man I have a feeling this will help me. I bought a new rear axle beam and I have to buy the bushings first and I have been reading for 2 days now on what is the best brand of rear bushing/upsides/downsides etc. I looked at the ones you reccomended and they seem suitable but they are now $16.25. cheap cheap cheap... I'm sure if thats a set or for just 1 side. Also sfxperformance has energy rear axle beam bushings for $60.64 a set but no picture to see what they look like apparently the color of them are black (polyurethane? why not red?) ok...not enough info. bottom line I'm unsure what to buy and getting a headache reading about polyurethane bushings squeeking and drying out in 2-3 yrs. i just want to get this done.... whatya think?


----------



## BuciVR22 (Oct 9, 2008)

hey i was wondering why do this or how u can tell if they are cracked or broken. my rear suspension sound like crap every bump i hit its a big rattleing noise.


----------



## SilberneGewehrkugel (Mar 12, 2007)

*Re: (BuciVR22)*

nice http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## gizmocska (Jun 18, 2003)

*Re: (dremhmrk2)*

I have done this several times without removing the axle but you have done an awesome job.Now I know how it has to be done.Thanx


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (gizmocska)*

Hey guys, OP here with a few added thoughts for you. Glad to see this is back from the dead again and still useful to people. 
Close examination of the orientation of the bushings will reveal an important truth...._their axis is not horizontal with the car._ The bushings are tilted, yet the axle by design must








rotate on a horizontal axis...so what does this mean?? It means the bushings are subject to twisting forces as the axle pivots up and down. It undoubtedly has to do with some kind of bias the engineers were trying to create, most likely to affect some toe or camber angle during articulation. Bottom line -- any poly bushing back there is going to squeak, in theory, because of the way it is being twisted every time you hit a bump. This is entirely different than what happens on a front control arm, where the bushing's axis IS inline with the pivot of the arm. The two cannot be really compared. 
As far as why do this at all, that was covered in the original post. Crappy bushings are just....crappy. No one wants slop in their drivetrain, and VW's feel soooooo much better when everything is fresh. Plus the fluid-filled bushings are eventually going to leak. 
Finally, let me say I am *parting out the car*. So hit me up if you wold like to possibly buy this entire axle. It has 20th rear brakes, an Autotech hollow sway bar, hubs and bearings were new at the time of the write-up (only put about 15K on the car since then), and they have a *stud conversion* on them. 


















_Modified by RabbitsKin at 11:46 PM 4-14-2009_


----------



## 805 (May 11, 2004)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

Heres some spericals for the rear that I ran. I loved them


----------



## Himby (Apr 10, 2008)

*Re: (th31nfamous)*


_Quote, originally posted by *th31nfamous* »_Is the [aligning mark supposed] to face the ground or the sky??

I have the exact same question. The diagram in the Chilton's is the same as the Bentley, and I can't tell which way these things are supposed to be oriented








I could have taken note of the orientation of the old bushings before removing them, but I didn't








BTW, Great write-up!!


_Modified by Himby at 7:07 PM 4-15-2009_


----------



## photousa (Dec 31, 2008)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (MK4FAST)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MK4FAST* »_I was having major rear tire wear, I was going through tires like oil.








Les Schwab said I had a bent spindle or that my rear axle beam was bent. I was like yeah OK how did that happen?








I have lifetime alignments at Firestone and my rear toe was the only thing that was way off. Toe specs for 337 or sport suspension are: rear toe specified range is -0.09 to 0.57. 
My Actual was Left: *-0.43*, Right: *-1.44*
That is way off, Major tire wear.















I just got done installing the Energy Suspension rear axle beam bushings part# 15.3118r.
I did it without removing the rear beam from the car, I left the shocks hooked up, and took out the C-clips that hold the brake lines and one bolt on the passenger side that held a bracket up to the body, also unsnapped the lines from the plastic clips, I also unplugged the wheel sensor. I took out the rear bushing bolts and lowered the axle beam slowly and watched my brake lines so I didn't bend or pull on them. U might need to loosen the shock mounts a little bit, NOT all the way for some clearance.
I used a cold chisel to get the stock bushing out, and then a hacksaw to cut the sleeve and then some hammering with a flat-head and the sleeves came right out.






















The poly bushings go in so much easier than the stock ones. Use enough silicone spray and they slide right in.
Bolt it back up, but don't tighten the bolts all the way till u have the wheels back on the ground. 
I had to remove the shock mounts after I was all finished putting the poly's in to get the rear bolts to line up, One side went easy but the other side was a being mean








Put your clips back in the brake lines, bolt the bracket back up, and then plug back in the wheel sensor. Use a jack under the springs to bolt the shock mounts back up.
Put wheels back on lower the car and tighten the two bolts. ALL Done, time to relax








Then U Need an alignment.
I have already done the front control arms with the ECS Poly/Heavy Duty kit. 
My car is so much smoother on the freeway and it hugs corners like a brand new car. My car is 8 years old almost 9.
_Modified by MK4FAST at 11:48 AM 8-12-2008_

Hey, I've been told that I have the same problem with my 2002 1.8T Jetta Automatic Tip. The dealer says that I've bent the rear axle Beam , it's too far out of wack, can't be shimmed and it needs to be replaced, at a cost of $1200.00. Now I'm searching around here for solutions. My question is, once you've replaced the bushings in the rear axle beam, does it then straighten out the "toe in" or camber problem? I have the same problem with my tires, they have excessive wear on the inside 1/4 of the tread. My front end alignment is right on
spec, so the dealer has blamed the problem on the rear axle. Did all of the work you did to replace the rear axle bushings straighten out your rear wheels and your
excessive wear problem or was your axle really bent? My car has about 130,000 miles on it,
with literally all highway miles, back and forth to work everyday. The car hasn't been off roading, so I find it hard to believe that we bent the rear axle, unless of course going over the occasional rough Chicago pothole will bend an axle.



_Modified by photousa at 8:37 AM 4-23-2009_


----------



## mariomega (Jun 10, 2003)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (photousa)*


_Quote, originally posted by *photousa* »_
Hey, I've been told that I have the same problem with my 2002 1.8T Jetta Automatic Tip. The dealer says that I've bent the rear axle Beam , it's too far out of wack, can't be shimmed and it needs to be replaced, at a cost of $1200.00. Now I'm searching around here for solutions. My question is, once you've replaced the bushings in the rear axle beam, does it then straighten out the "toe in" or camber problem? I have the same problem with my tires, they have excessive wear on the inside 1/4 of the tread. My front end alignment is right on
spec, so the dealer has blamed the problem on the rear axle. Did all of the work you did to replace the rear axle bushings straighten out your rear wheels and your
excessive wear problem or was your axle really bent? My car has about 130,000 miles on it,
with literally all highway miles, back and forth to work everyday. The car hasn't been off roading, so I find it hard to believe that we bent the rear axle, unless of course going over the occasional rough Chicago pothole will bend an axle.
_Modified by photousa at 8:37 AM 4-23-2009_

I'd also like to know since my rear end is out of spec. It used to be toed in too much and then I had shims put on to correct and now it is toed out. It's still out of spec but not as bad as before.


----------



## improvius (Mar 6, 2001)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (mariomega)*

I was hearing clunking from the rear over the last few days, so I took a look underneath. Sure enough, the bushings are coming apart. Will I be ok driving them as is for another 500 miles or so before I can get them replaced? Or do I need to keep it parked until then?


----------



## SRSVW (Jun 28, 2001)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (improvius)*

3 comments
1 The axle fits a regular shop press easily! 
2 this is easy to do without removing the axle or disconnecting brake lines
3 Poly cant and doesnt work here!!!!!!!!!
Dick Shine


----------



## D755580 (Jul 25, 2001)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (SRSVW)*









Thanks Dick/SRSVW for your comments. I'm confused point 1 and 2. 1) I should take the axle out to find a shop to press it out. 2) I should leave the axle and the brake lines attached. Can you give us more details? thanks again


----------



## JAYMEN (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (D755580)*

I did this job a few weeks ago.
I disconnected the lines and let the beam swing down so I can work at it.
I used a chisel and hacksaw to get the old ones out, and I made a custom tool to press it back in.


----------



## Ajax2029 (Aug 27, 2007)

*Re: (805)*


_Quote, originally posted by *805* »_Heres some spericals for the rear that I ran. I loved them









Where can one acquire a set of these?


----------



## 805 (May 11, 2004)

*Re: (Ajax2029)*

i have a few sets left
$200.00 each
lmk


----------



## WS6Fury (Feb 4, 2003)

*Re: (805)*

could this what the rear clunk in my vr6 be going over small to large bumps in the road? It's more affected when I impact the pass side rear wheel...


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *WS6Fury* »_could this what the rear clunk in my vr6 be going over small to large bumps in the road? It's more affected when I impact the pass side rear wheel...


That or the upper strut mount. The latter is far easier to change, so you may want to start there. And you can't tell by looking if the one on the car is bad. But you can kinda inspect the axle bushing. If it's oozing oil, it's shot for sure.


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *JAYMEN* »_I did this job a few weeks ago.
I disconnected the lines and let the beam swing down so I can work at it.
I used a chisel and hacksaw to get the old ones out, and I made a custom tool to press it back in.



Could you please elaborate a little more--especially on the press you fabbed up? And about how long did it all take?


----------



## traversjs (Jun 1, 2009)

I am in the middle of this project and I got my bushings at Napa Auto Parts. The only problem is that the bushings aren't round. They are oval and when I try to press them in they flex and pop out on one side of the other. Anyone run into this before?
Also I have put together a list of sites to compare bushings:
http://www.srsvw.com/
http://www.fastaddiction.com
http://www.statracing.com/
http://www.tdiparts.com
http://www.suspension.com/volks.htm
http://www.germanautoparts.com
http://www.worldimpex.com
http://www.napaonline.com/
http://www.1stvwparts.com/
Some of these have already been listed and I am sure I've missed some, but I thought it would be helpful to have a list so one can shop around a bit. 
Also, for what it's worth I would say that the alignment mark should point to the ground as the picture shows it pointing down. I don't think they would have the picture upside down in all the books. I think this is oriented this way because there is less rubber on the top and bottom if oriented this way, thus allowing more vertical movement.


----------



## Afrobandit (Jun 13, 2008)

For guys who dont have a press. To get them out it was easier to hammer a smaller chisel through the back, into the rubber, hammering towards the inside of the car. It will eventually go through until it hits the metal on the other side. This way you dont chip your beam. Plus it comes out easier.


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (traversjs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *traversjs* »_I am in the middle of this project and I got my bushings at Napa Auto Parts. The only problem is that the bushings aren't round. They are oval and when I try to press them in they flex and pop out on one side of the other. Anyone run into this before?
Also I have put together a list of sites to compare bushings:
http://www.srsvw.com/
http://www.fastaddiction.com
http://www.statracing.com/
http://www.tdiparts.com
http://www.suspension.com/volks.htm
http://www.germanautoparts.com
http://www.worldimpex.com
http://www.napaonline.com/
http://www.1stvwparts.com/
Some of these have already been listed and I am sure I've missed some, but I thought it would be helpful to have a list so one can shop around a bit. 
Also, for what it's worth I would say that the alignment mark should point to the ground as the picture shows it pointing down. I don't think they would have the picture upside down in all the books. I think this is oriented this way because there is less rubber on the top and bottom if oriented this way, thus allowing more vertical movement.


Oval? The OEM parts I put in were round. I guess if yours are elastic enough they will just conform to fit the hole, but that sounds weird to me. 
Nice list http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

Still waiting to do this job--when I tried the other weekend, I came to realize that the bolts are siezed in the original bushings. 
Now I have new bolts and nuts from VW, so this weekend I can try cutting the old bolts in order to lower the bushing housing.
I have a feeling this will be an all-day project laying on the driveway....


----------



## goatglx (Oct 18, 2007)

*Re: (zak)*

worst, most aggravating job I've done on a car ever... and I've done a lot of intense jobs. I'd say I'm a pretty skilled back yard mechanic.My bushings were seized in the housing so bad I had to torch the hell out of them, cut the sleeves with a sawzall in several spots and it still took forever to pound them out. The housings were so rusty and crudded up I had to use an engine hone to smooth them out so I could slide the new ones in and file the crap out of the lips too. I even broke one of the new bushings pressing it in and had to order a single one from mjm which put my car out of commission for another couple days. Definitely a huge disaster, I just hope your experience goes better. If not, add a 12 pack to your list of required tools.


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*FV-QR*

Makes me want to farm this one out...


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (zak)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zak* »_Makes me want to farm this one out...

Me too....see my advice in the write-up to pay someone else to do this if you can. I wasn't even dealing with stuck sleeves like the poster above. I would rate this job up there with other necessary-jobs-that-no-one-else-will-do, like changing your heater core.


----------



## goatglx (Oct 18, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (RabbitsKin)*

yea honestly, I'm a huge advocate for doing things yourself but this is one job where I would've passed the aggravation onto someone else for a monetary exchange. I'd rather do my turbo install than this and I'm reluctantly farming that job out due to lack of time (35 hr work week + taking 15 credits = no time for my dub)....at least there's a real reward at the end rather than things just being OK http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*FV-QR*

Cowed by responses from reputable local garages (4-8 hours @ $70) for replacing my rear axle bushings, I've decided to tackle it myself--well, with a buddy or two. And we will have a fresh keg of Labatt Blue Light on hand.
Goat--what did you use to press in the new bushings? What broke the one? I am planning on using the dry ice to shrink the bushings and a home-made draw-bolt puller.
Did you use the bottle brush type cylinder hone on the bearing housing, or the one with the three stones? 
Any other tips? I am not looking forward to this job, but I can't lay out $300-600 bucks. I am hoping to keep the beam on the car, but maybe it's easier if I drop the whole thing?


----------



## MilanoMike (Mar 5, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (zak)*

For a DIY, I'd remove the beam, but it will still be a big pain, for both getting old bushings out and pushing in new. I was lucky, local dealer did job with beam in car for $268 give or take a couple of bucks. Its worth it, if you can find someone to do for 300 or less. On the other hand, if you have a lathe and can machine yourself up a couple of sleeves and pushers and get a long bolt, it's probably pretty straight forward. I've done all kinds of this work over the years, and this one is worth paying for unless you can make a tool. Good luck.
Mike


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (MilanoMike)*

Not to point out the obvioius, but this DIY is based around a chisel, hack saw, and big C-clamp. No special tools required, unless your bushings are so rusted to the beam you need to machine them out.


















_Modified by RabbitsKin at 1:20 PM 9-23-2009_


----------



## goatglx (Oct 18, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (RabbitsKin)*

I used everything in the DIY for the most part. I used a piece of threaded rod, a couple nuts and some large washers to start drawing the bushing into the sleeve and a huge C clamp with a 2X4 block on one end and the cover to a header dump (just a piece of plate steel) on the other side and tightened the nuts on the threaded rod little by little as I clamped different points on the bushing at different times so it would go in straight (which it fought me on A LOT). I also torched the housing constantly and tapped the bushing with a hammer and a 2x4 block. Another thing I used was a crap load of white lithium grease. The hone I used was a 3 stone hone but mine was an extreme case of corrosion so I doubt youll have to use one. However, it did clean up the sleeve nicely. You should be ok with a half round file and some sand paper tho. As for what broke the bushing, the C clamp put cracks in it and when I started tapping it in with a hammer it got ugly. The sleeve just needed a lot of attention to get things in correctly which is why I think the bushing broke cause I did a crap load more filing and honing the second time.


----------



## goatglx (Oct 18, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (goatglx)*

also, id definitely recommend taking the beam out. You'll have to bleed the brakes but it'll give you alot more room to work and more hammer swinging potential


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*FV-QR*

Thanks for the tips, guys. I think I will start by taking out the beam. Bleeding brakes is pie, and I can't see me getting much leverage for anything while lying on my back in the driveway under the car. 
I'm lucky my friend is willing to help--I'm glad I helped him with his engine swap a while back.
I do have a long bolt and big fender washers to use as a draw-bolt puller. I hope it works. I'll post up how the job goes.


----------



## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

im right along with you ..just ordered the bushings from ecs tuning........now just waiting for shipment then getting the hammer...chizzel and hack saw to work


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*FV-QR*

Holy mother of God. Had to sawzall out the driver's side pivot bolt, which means we had to cut through the metal center of the bearing too. 
Getting the old bushings out was actually easy, and taking out the sleeves was not much more difficult.
But there was no way the new bushings were going in--tried freezing (dry ice place was closed), heating the housing, draw bolt, c clamp.
Took out the beam. Cut lead-in bevels on the bearing housings, but even with the easier access of the axle off the car, I still couldn't get them in--they would start but invariably part of the housing would pop its way out.
Got in contact with a guy from a local forum (ROFLwagens.com) with a 12 ton press, drove the beam over, and we got them in. 
Too late now to reinstall the beam and bleed the brakes, but that should (famous last words) be straight forward.
If I didn't have the siezed bolt on the one side and had the press there and ready from the beginning, it would have been done in a few hours. Even as it is, I am glad I did this myself, saving $300-600.


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*FV-QR*

Got the beam reinstalled this morning in the rain by myself with three jacks. 
Hooked up the brakes and all, put on the tires, and lowered it so I could torque the new pivot and lower shock mount bolts.
Now all I have to do is bleed the brakes. 
If you have access to a press, this job really isn't that bad. Not a lot of fun, but not bad.


----------



## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

real quick zak im going to this tommorow ..what size the pivot bolt and nut and the shock bolts im gonna tackel this tommorow and do a write up as well


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*FV-QR*

I went to the dealer to buy the pivot bolts and nuts (iirc grade 10.8 or something else ginormous). For the lower shock bolts I just reused the ones that I used with my Neuspeed rsb.
Method I would recommend:
Raise car, remove rear wheels.
disconnect brake lines where they go through the tabs on the crossmember of the axle.
Disconnect abs sensor wires and e-brake cables
Remove pivot bolts and support with jack (not it that order ha)
Put jacks under the spring cups and remove lower shock bolts.
Lower beam, hammer out bushing as outlined above (way easier than expected).
Use a big vice and spacer to press new bushings in until they bottoms (about 1/2 way). Tap in the parts of the plastic that start to bulge out.
Use a press (I used 12-ton) to press the bearings in the rest of the way.
Reinstall is reverse of removal. Bleed brakes afterward.
I would guess at most 4 hours in the driveway.


----------



## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (zak)*

by any chance do uknow the wrench sizes for shock and axle


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (xrecklesdriverx)*

14mm for shock bolts/nuts; 18mm for pivot axle bolt/nuts.


_Modified by zak at 5:20 AM 9-29-2009_


----------



## _Growler (Apr 28, 2007)

its 16mm for the shock bolt/nut on the axle beam, not 14mm.


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*Re: (_Growler)*


_Quote, originally posted by *_Growler* »_its 16mm for the shock bolt/nut on the axle beam, not 14mm.
That may well be correct for the stock bolts/nuts. Mine are replacements that also attach through the RSB link.


----------



## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

weird i went at the axle beam to get the shocks and the shock bolts were coated 10.5 and i put a 16 to it and that was just shy to big and i put 14 and 15 and both were to smalll......guess im f**ked ..called my buddy to come over tommorwo and help me see whats going on with it


----------



## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

bump ima try this again today


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*Re: (xrecklesdriverx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *xrecklesdriverx* »_shock bolts were coated 10.5 

I guess you meant coded. That's the grade (strength) of the bolt and has nothing to do with the size of the wrench you use to turn it. 
That's a metric rating, so it's surprising your wrenches didn't fit. Are the bolts/nuts crudded up? I've had to tap on correct-sized sockets and wrenches before.


----------



## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

emergengy help....
brake lines.....how far do i go bak with removal i removed the rubber line to caliper and the metal lining attched to it......then i unscrewed the brake hose line and desiconected it from the holding cups...and tahts it ...i see behind that thiers more to it but how far bak do i go ....seems like tuff removal from that point on.....
any help i got all the tools now just the brake lining i think is last...

and for a follow up on the shocks my buddy came over wit a 16mm crafmans and got it off so i guess it was my tools sucked....dont ask me how but yes brakke help please


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*FV-QR*

You don't need to unclip anything. Just at the fitting where the rubber hose goes through the little bracket that's attached to the crossmember of the axle beam.
They are very close to where the bushings are. After you unscrew the hardline, pry off the clip and the rubber hose can be pulled through. The brakes and lines stay with the axle.
You do need to detach the e-brakes and ABS wheel speed sensor wires.


----------



## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

tommorow ima try it .....so where the second rubber is just look for the hardline after and then unscrew that.......at night it looked like a tight spot to get to but it is next to the bushing so i beleive we are talking about the same spot ....ima try and go after that spot tommorow unscrewing the hardline then prying off the brackets that hold the rubber piecing together.....
this part should be a diy ima take pics on it hopefully and post them up cause everything was easy till now or at night it just might be a lil bit harder to see 


_Modified by xrecklesdriverx at 8:18 PM 10-2-2009_


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*FV-QR*

Unscrew the hardline that is is clipped to the rear axle from the rubber hose that goes through the bracket.
If you look at the first post in this thread, you can clearly see the bracket in the second photo in step 2 (passenger side) and in step 4 (driver's side).


----------



## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

ight i got ya ....i see the pic so straight just unscrew the hardline connecting to that and then pry off the clips holding the rubber peice bolted on .....i understand it now.......

any easy ways to get to it or just a lil 11mm or 10 mm love lol


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*FV-QR*

11mm. Pry the clip out with a flathead screwdriver.


----------



## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

so zak man i must say u know sh*t so well....everything was everything ...ran into some issues with the brake lines being all old the lines wanted to twist with the nut but just got a needle nose clamped and twisted the nut and the prying off wasnt to bad either....would undo the bolts now but no shops in pa are open till mon so for now everything is ready for the press which dealer wanted a 3 hour clock time to do which was 267 ....called our local vw and honda shop and they wanted only 70 for a one hour....

so once again dealer loses but updates will be made as i start....i cant thank you guys enough for all the help...


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*FV-QR*

No problem. I am still amazed at how differently the car rides/handles now. I no longer cringe when I approach bumps, and the rear end feels so much more solid in turns. Sh!t, even my emergency brake works again.
1 hour sounds fine for pressing in the bushings. 3 hours at a VW dealer ought to include all the labor to remove and reinstall the axle beam as well.


----------



## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

yeah the dealer tries to get u on everything.....
im still amazed on how far i came with vw ...i member the days of being the newb on here just asking questions to the older vw guys and i came thru to a couple of well known vw guys savwko and a guy named greggory wayne and those guys just set me the right way and now im on here doing advanced installs now just off a lil help of the local guys and forums...zak u even helped me through this like it was pie and it will good to see now how the forum will progress now that were one of the 4 to do this install on the site ...
i owe this site everything cause i tell u i had not a clue on how to work on a dub and all i did was just click on our diy and the faqs and now im a cocky lil fu**er when it comes to my car...










_Modified by xrecklesdriverx at 1:12 PM 10-4-2009_


----------



## TDi RAY (Sep 16, 2000)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (RabbitsKin)*

Just got done installing the OEM replacements in my car and what I used for installing them was the treaded coil spring compressors that you can rent from your local auto parts store. It got them all but the last 1/4" in by taking turns about every 2 full turns per clamps. When it got near the last inch or so I used the old 12mm bolts to give me more space to draw them the rest of the way. The last 1/4" I used about a 5lb dead blow hammer with a soft face on it and hit around the edge to finish sitting the bushing in the hole. It probably only took about a minute or 2 of hammering in to finish the setting. Also I used a thin layer of antiseize on the first one and nothing on the second bushing. The anti seize was just a little bit easier on the hammering part but didn't make to much of a difference to really worry about it. Also I didn't heat or freeze either the axle or the bushing. That might had made a pretty decent difference but didn't try. Just figured I'd share my experience with the situation.


----------



## xrecklesdriverx (May 19, 2006)

ALL DONE.....sorry it took so long to post evertyhing was easy and done wit the best of help man....

all i spend was 39 bucks for the oem bushing off ecs and 72 for locoal shop to put them in ...so all together 111$ for everything and now im smooth sailing again ....free allignment warranty helped out so just got it all freshened up and now im still shocked on how good the car handles the roads and hooks like a monster now


----------



## meb58 (Jun 22, 2009)

I know I am late to the party, but the links a couple pages back that describe the down sides to poly are very accurate. you might be able to get away with poly in some places - swaybar bushings - but VW spends a lot of money engineering bushing material. Toe and camber compliance and comfort are all key ingredients to a proper working suspension.
If I were considering a bushing upgrade I would look to Audi or to the after market for rod end type bushings.
As they say...or write, this is my 2 cents.


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *meb58* »_
If I were considering a bushing upgrade I would look to Audi 


Apparently, the MkI and MkII TT uses the same rear axle bushings as all MkIV Jetta/Golfs, including the R32.
No in-house OEM upgrade.


----------



## meb58 (Jun 22, 2009)

So, stock or rod end type bushing are the only choices?
A thought for all...try Power Flex. Although I realy do nor like poly, they have produced some very interesting and complicated bushings for a few cars. I've been using one quite successfully for about 100,000 miles. Power Flex paid attention to how this control arm moves and the result is less stiction that even the stock oil filled bushing. This one is a two piece bushing.


_Modified by meb58 at 5:50 AM 10-27-2009_


----------



## Col-Buddy-Greenleaf (Jun 27, 2007)

*Re: (meb58)*


_Quote, originally posted by *meb58* »_So, stock or rod end type bushing are the only choices?
_Modified by meb58 at 5:50 AM 10-27-2009_

What about Sperical bearings, like the ones offered by H2Sport and I think also Shine racing? ... or are you talking about something else..


----------



## 805 (May 11, 2004)

*Re: (Col-Buddy-Greenleaf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Col-Buddy-Greenleaf* »_
What about Sperical bearings, like the ones offered by H2Sport and I think also Shine racing? ... or are you talking about something else..

Like this?








$100.00 a set shipped


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *805* »_
Like this?








$100.00 a set shipped 


Thought I had asked this before, but I don't remember any answer--are these doable on a daily driver, or are they for track use?


----------



## 805 (May 11, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (zak)*

they are fine for daily drivers


----------



## bobhowell (Dec 4, 2009)

couple of comments on a few questions posted:
1. Rubber bushings damp out peak loads coming from the wheels and being transmitted to the body. putting in spherical bushes will increase the shock loading the body sees (read fatigue cracks long term), and increased ride harshness. 
2. Bushings are oriented per the manual because the have uneven (tuned) radial rates in different directions. This helps properly steer the rear axle/wheels for a given lateral load input like a lane change manuver. 
3. Bushings are pressed in to the axle sleeves and typically have a targeted push out load that is minimum 2X the peak axial load the bushing sees during normal driving (ie no crashes). Excess lubing/grinding of the outer sleeve of the bushing to enable easy installation will potentially allow the bushing to slip relative to the axle sleeve under normal driving loads, hence not do its job.
4. Axle bolts should be final torqued (as someone pointed out) after the car is back on the ground. This prevents winding up the bushing in the curb position....and potential over travel of the bushing in max jounce (max wheel up travel).


----------



## Oly_Golf (May 20, 2006)

*Re: (bobhowell)*

Great info above, thank you!
Had planned for lithium grease to get it in, but maybe not now. This isn't like FSB or RSB bushings that use metal clamps to hold it on. What seems to 'help' keep this in place IS the tight fit of it, meaning lithium would just invite the actually piece to "wiggle"? Sigh, if so this then makes the install harder.
If this is true, any suggestions on an application safe grease that dries up relatively fast? i.e. WD-40?


----------



## Oly_Golf (May 20, 2006)

*Superseded: New Part Number!*

Old Rear Axle Bushing part #:
1J0 501 541C ( & possibly 1J0 501 541D)
*Updated/superseded VW/AUDI STOCK #:
6R0 501 541A*
FYI Folks,
The part number has been superseded as of January 2009. Though you will still find OEM or OE still referencing the old one. New price is $27.97 from 1STVWPARTS (Auburn, WA VW dealership internet sales) or your local dealership for more $$$.
Quite a change in the number: maybe from the MKV or MKVI? Or just dreaming, and it's from a newer A4/MKIV model in VWs worldwide line up...
Anyways, I have on the original 2001 Golf 4 Door 1.8T GLS bushings and also a Meyle OEM 1J0 501 541C that I got from MJMAUTOHAUS here, and also now waiting for delivery of the superseded 6R0 501 541 A from 1STVWPARTS.
I'll try and post pics, impressions of fit and quality when I have all three to compare.
Anybody else out there with the new part on, how does it feel? Harder/easier to install?


_Modified by Oly_Golf at 11:21 AM 12-12-2009_


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*FV-QR*

I used no grease/lube in installing mine (original ones bought from GAP in September). 
Started them with a honking vice with the beam on the ground (easier) and finished on the press. You have to use a drift and tap the parts of the bushing housing that start to bulge out back in. Go slowly.


----------



## TheBossQ (Aug 15, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (zak)*

I have always used rubbing alcohol when pressing rubber bushings. It acts as a surfactant, breaks surface tension between the rubber and metal. It then evaporates.
Usually, a friend to drip, drip, drip the alcohol while I press/tap the bushing into place.


----------



## nesisg (Jun 9, 2009)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (Banditt007)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Banditt007* »_looks pretty easy too. i have to replace my rear axle b/c its bent, wanted to know if you knew if the axle can be shifted similar to the subframe or is it bolted in one place (the hangers?) also are new bolts always used? torque spec super high or what. thanks.

The subframe can be shifted on MK4s? Can you please clarify how? I may need to do that on mine.


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*FV-QR*

The hangers to have slotted holes for the bolts, which allows "centering" of the beam.


----------



## Oly_Golf (May 20, 2006)

*Re: Superseded: New Part Number! (Oly_Golf)*

Thanks Zak and Boss for the tips. I won't use lithium grease then and will use rubbing alcohol.

_Quote, originally posted by *Oly_Golf* »_Old Rear Axle Bushing part #:
1J0 501 541C ( & possibly 1J0 501 541D)
*Updated/superseded VW/AUDI STOCK #:
6R0 501 541A*

So I got 6R0 501 541 A bushings, and glad I waited and ordered them!
They are quite a bit different from the older Meyle OEM 1J0 501 541 C.
First off the material seems better and the edge is beveled (where my thumb is) so that alone should help in pushing them in.

Though, the real reason I will be using them is that they use ALOT more rubber inside, and are nearly solid. The Meyle OEM have BARELY any rubber in them!
It's hard to tell in the photos as I'll be returning the Meyle OEMs and thus can't take them out of the wrapper, but you can see that where the NEW VW OEM part has 2 small holes that those are almost the size of the amount of rubber IN the Meyle OEMs! *Another way to say it, the Meyles have about 25% rubber, and the NEW VW parts has 75% rubber!!!!! *
This reminds me of the difference between the STOCK Lower Control Arm Rear Bushings and the TT/R32 bushings.
Sorry for the crappy photos, but it should illustrate the point:
*Meyle OEM 1J0 501 541 C:*


*NEW VW 6R0 501 541 A:*


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*FV-QR*

Damn! wish they had these a couple months ago.


----------



## Oly_Golf (May 20, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (zak)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zak* »_Damn! wish they had these a couple months ago.

Zak, it won't be until after Christmas when I get them installed, but I'll let you know how they feel compared to my 2001 stock with 110k miles.
Just curious, were yours more like the Meyle OEM ones? Meaning less rubber?
Also, I am going to try and do the install without removing the axle, did you take yours off? If so, is it a pain to "center" the axle back on? Really scared if so....


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

Yes--less rubber. I was shocked, actually, when I first received the new bushings as to how little rubber is in it. I had the hydro bushings on the car, and they were very different. 
I will say though that the new bushings I put in made a huge difference.


----------



## Newmix (Oct 26, 2009)

*Re: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV (MK4FAST)*

my jetta has the same problem, i change the rear axel Beam from a other vw but the problem continued, the tires are wasting from the inside i dont know what to do..... any help please...
did you problem with the tires continued or no, if so any advise!!


----------



## nesisg (Jun 9, 2009)

*Re: (dremhmrk2)*

vwparts1.com has the new bushings for ~$32 a piece. They cost more than the Meyle ones but are way worth it. I ordered the Meyle ones from German Auto Parts and sent them back a week later without installing them. They have so little rubber you can move the inner shaft .25in off center by hand with very little force, so imagine when you have 500lbs of car sitting on them. Not to mention actually hitting a bump. The new ones are the way to go IMHO.


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*FV-QR*

How long do the regular rubber bushings last? My OE hydro ones lasted about 90k.


----------



## Oly_Golf (May 20, 2006)

*Re: (nesisg)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nesisg* »_vwparts1.com has the new bushings for ~$32 a piece. They cost more than the Meyle ones but are way worth it. I ordered the Meyle ones from German Auto Parts and sent them back a week later without installing them. They have so little rubber you can move the inner shaft .25in off center by hand with very little force, so imagine when you have 500lbs of car sitting on them. Not to mention actually hitting a bump. The new ones are the way to go IMHO.

Glad to know I'm not the only one! Thought I was being anal retentive a bit about it...
Anyways, I bagged the install. The old hydro ones seemed to be still intact, a couple wrinkles though, but pretty much solid. 110k miles on it.
I looked at those brake fluid lines and just shuddered.... How the hell did you get them off? So scared I would break them. Or did you keep the axle on.... An updated guide really needs to be written.










_Modified by Oly_Golf at 11:08 PM 1-7-2010_


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Oly_Golf* »_
Glad to know I'm not the only one! Thought I was being anal retentive a bit about it...
Anyways, I bagged the install. The old hydro ones seemed to be still intact, a couple wrinkles though, but pretty much solid. 110k miles on it.
I looked at those brake fluid lines and just shuddered.... How the hell did you get them off? So scared I would break them. Or did you keep the axle on.... An updated guide really needs to be written.











You need to remove the axle. The brake lines were easy to disconnect (the rubber lines near the bushings).
It's not that bad, really, if you can press the bushings in yourself. I used a honking vice to get them in 3/4 of the way (they started to bottom) and a press with hollow spacers to finish. 
If you do not have a honking vice and press, then don't attempt this. Even with dry ice and all, I don't see these bushings just slipping in my hand.


----------



## Oly_Golf (May 20, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (zak)*

Thanks Zak! I'll fix them once/if they start leaking, but this makes me feel better. Appreciate it.
Btw, not quite sure still how the brake lines come off. I'll do a search for it hopefully someone else has post a DIY.
Cheers


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Oly_Golf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Oly_Golf* »_
Btw, not quite sure still how the brake lines come off. I'll do a search for it hopefully someone else has post a DIY.


Once the car is jacked up and the wheels are off, you just use a wrench and loosen the fitting on the brake line where it goes through the tab on the axle.
When it's disconnected, slide the clip off toward the front of the car, and then you can pull the rubber line down and out through the tab.
If you seal the cap on the brake fluid reservoir with saran wrap, you won't lose much fluid.


----------



## gtveloce (Nov 15, 2005)

I have just got my 6R0 501 541 A from a local dealer. They were trying to sell me the old style and insist that is the newest bushing.
Anyway, I got a question that was asked a few pages ago but I don't see the answer posted. What direction should the mark of the bushing facing? Should it face the sky or the ground?
Thanks!!
I do have a hydraulic press but it's going to be a PITA to hold that axle to it. I am going to turn something on a lathe to make a tool, I will post how that work out.


----------



## jasonsp6 (Sep 8, 2003)

*Re: (gtveloce)*

Here is the orientation info for these bushings:
(the mark faces the ground)








To install the new bushings you can make a puller tool using two steel plates, a threaded rod and some nuts. If you want to get fancy with the lathe, have fun!










_Modified by jasonsp6 at 8:02 PM 2-17-2010_


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*Re: (gtveloce)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtveloce* »_
I do have a hydraulic press but it's going to be a PITA to hold that axle to it. I am going to turn something on a lathe to make a tool, I will post how that work out.

It's not easy to hold the axle to the press--that's why we used the huge vice to press in the bushing until it bottomed. We had the axle and vice on the ground. This way we could make sure the bushing was oriented the correct way and that it was going in square.
After the bushing was about 3/4 of the way in, one person held the axle, a second steadied it/kept it in position, and a third operated the press.


----------



## 10sec-rabbit (Oct 14, 2003)

*Re: (zak)*

good post


----------



## 10sec-rabbit (Oct 14, 2003)

*Re: (10sec-rabbit)*

i did this job today took me about 2.5 hours 
on jack stands i took out the axle took a 1/2 hours
cut the rear bushing out with a sawzall, was very easy 15 min 
I designing a tool based on that wheeling bearing installer i have.
i went to home depot got a 12inch 3/8 piece of all thread 4 nuts a 2inch end cap for threaded pipe and a flange for something not sure what it was
i drilled a hole in the end of the pipe cap for the all thread and used it for a receiver and used the flange on the flange side of the bushing. i had the plastic casing bushing too...i also used a hose clamp to keep the thing nice and round. once i had it all set up it took me about 10 min a side to actually get the new bushing in, ill try and get a pic of this rig i used soon . but it worked great!!
no more clunking or banging made a big diffrence 
with the right tools this an easy job bledding the brakes took longer


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

Definitely post pics.


----------



## gtveloce (Nov 15, 2005)

*Re: (gtveloce)*

Here they come.
I was installing the bushings on a brand new axle so I didn't get to experience the trouble of taking the old bushing off.
Here is what I have made and gathered.
Two pieces of turned Aluminum (A and B)
a 12mmx1.75mmx300 threaded rod
some 12mm nuts and washers
19mm socket and a 19mm wrench.
First of all, I followed the advice and put the bushings in the freezer (why not?)








I line them up as the Bentley drawing shown (with the mark facing ground), and put a mark on them so I know which way it should go








Put some grease on the threaded rod.
Then I put the "tools" that I have turned, with side A facing the side of the bushing that has a rubber ring around it
Side B (with has a slightly smaller diameter, which helps to line up the bushing) will fit inside the hole of the axle beam
and then link them up as shown in the picture with the greased 12mm threaded rod and nuts.

































Make sure the marks are lining up, the bushing at the right angle, and then I start turning one side of the nut with a deep 19mm socket.








You will see the bushing slowly got squeezed into the hole.








When it gets to a certain point, it will be getting hard to turn the socket, it's the because the tool (side B) is starting to hit the bushing itself.
Now is the time to disassemble the whole thing, flip the side B to the side C.








and then keep tigntening it again until the bushing is completely inside the housing.








Viola. DONE!
Took me about 2 mins per side to install the bushings (with manual tools) (I got lazy and used an air tool on the other side, took about 1 min)
As a thanks to RabbitsKin (who started the DIY), zak and other fellow members that have helped me out, IM me if anyone want to borrow the tool (the two pieces of alu, the threaded rod + the nuts and washers) 
I will priority mail them out if postage paid both ways.

_Modified by gtveloce at 2:44 PM 2-19-2010_


_Modified by gtveloce at 2:45 PM 2-19-2010_


----------



## FigureFive (Dec 21, 2003)

*Re: (gtveloce)*

gtveloce: pm'd ya


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

Awesome job, gtveloce.
At first I tried a long carriage bolt with fender washers, but it would not stay centered.
Your machined pieces are totally killer.


----------



## GLI_DRIVER (Mar 27, 2002)

*Re: (zak)*

Great post,proof vortex still has useful info.
The bushings in my 00 GTI starting clunking recently, I had it on the lift today to check out my clunk. The inner rubber rings are sheared off the bushing and with a small pry bar i can wiggle the bushing inside the outer ring. But mine are not leaking?? (yet) The clunk sure is driving me nuts now i moved into a place with high driveway ramp.
What is verdict on the 6RO 501 541 A bushings? Better than the older style?
I have replaced the mk3/2 counterpart, So these may not be much different.


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

*Re: (GLI_DRIVER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GLI_DRIVER* »_ But mine are not leaking?? (yet) 

The oil may (probably) have already leaked all out.


----------



## MrEd (Oct 29, 2003)

I did this bushing replacement over the past two days. I slightly cut the bushing housing and while using a vertical shop press to push in the new bushings, I chipped a small piece of the aluminum off of the new bushing. I used it anyway and hope there is no appreciable loss of integrity in the bushing. I chipped it because one of the arbors was too far toward center and the extended aluminum section of the new bushing was getting pinched against it. It was time consuming overall and without my shop press, I couldn't get the new bushings even started in straight in the axle housing. I was trying to use my front end bearing replacement kit, but just could not get the new bushings to start so I had a friend assist by holding the axle vertically whlie I operated the shop press.


----------



## mastertje (May 10, 2010)

*Rust*

My rear axle looks rusted. Do you guys think it's still safe to knock out those metal rings and put in new bushings or should I just replace the whole axle?



















cheers


----------



## FigureFive (Dec 21, 2003)

It's probably just surface rust. Take some Naval Jelly to it, then paint the bare areas and go for the bushing swap.

Nice to see some of the old posts turning up again!


----------



## mastertje (May 10, 2010)

*Rust*

It was surface rust yay! I got one in, but what a PITA, took me 4 hours for ONE bushing  I did it while the axle was on the car (see rust pic). Once I pused the bushing out, I had to saw the ring and push it out, then another ring, and finally push the new bushing in. I had to scavenge some pullies and rings and stuff to get it in fully, what a tight fit. But now the horrible bumping is gone on the left side.










I read they had to be oil filled? Mine were sand filled


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

With the axle still in the car? Then you must have access to a lift. I tried that on the ground, and wound up pulling the axle (not hard a t all).


----------



## mastertje (May 10, 2010)

Yes I have, I didnt want to bleed my brakes. Anyway this is the way you do it for one side at a time:










Remove handbrake cable from clips with arrows. Remove 2 clips from brake line (nr 2), then remove bushing bolt (nr 1), pull down axle and place a block of wood in between the car and the axle. Voila access to a rear axle bushing.

You can see pics like 4 posts ago (the rust pics) of this situation.


----------



## mastertje (May 10, 2010)

Just replaced the right rear one, this one was a bit harder due to lack of space but got this one done in 2 hours  Rings were the biggest bitch again. Then I found out I put it wrong way round so I spent another hour messing about :banghead:. I torqued them both again with the axle under load so the rubbers dont sit pre-twisted when the car is resting on it's wheels (importante). And now it drives like new. Thanks for this thread guys! Cheers. :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## Jat007 (Jun 26, 2010)

This is my very first Jetta - I love this car and I would like to take care of this thud sound from the rear of my 2003 Jetta VR6 when I go over a bump. I have replaced with new shocks, but the noise is still there when I hit a bump. So, by replacing the bushings will get rid of this thud sound from my rear-end?

This is a great write-up!! However, I will have to farm this work out since I don't have the right tools or the space. How much would you think the shop would charge for this work?

I need help!!

Thanks,

Jay


----------



## VWnotacar (Nov 19, 2005)

Jat007.... did you replace the upper shock mount when you replaced shocks. They can make clunking sounds too. You might want to replace the shock mounts before you try the axle bushing job. Shock mounts are cheap and don't take long to do


----------



## A4oli (Dec 23, 2004)

+1 for using a long bolt as a press. I have 2.5lb plates that you can buy at any fitness products supplier for relatively cheap that serve as really tough washers and dispers the energy nice and wide, I'd recommend using the long bolt, plus 2.5lb plates plus a couple of washers to anyone, you shouldn't have to remove the axle this way. 

Getting the old bushing out is the hard part... Every manual recommends torching them out, but you still have the metal jacket/ sleeve to get out anyway, have a variety of methods on hand, although the metal saw mentioned here seems like a great idea.


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

A4oli said:


> Getting the old bushing out is the hard part... Every manual recommends torching them out, but you still have the metal jacket/ sleeve to get out anyway, have a variety of methods on hand, although the metal saw mentioned here seems like a great idea.


I found taking out the old ones easy--hammer out the rubber part, then use a sawzall to make a slit cut in the sleeve. Then it's just using a BFH and a cold chisel.

Great idea about using the weight plates!


----------



## cadiz (Jan 9, 2009)

MK4FAST said:


> I was having major rear tire wear, I was going through tires like oil.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Hi there, 

thanks for posting the pics on your tire wear. I am having the same exactly tire wear issue. Did you replace the rear beam axle completely, or just did the bushings?, did the new bushings allow you to align the tires within specs? 

thanks


----------



## cadiz (Jan 9, 2009)

photousa said:


> _Quote, originally posted by *MK4FAST* »_I was having major rear tire wear, I was going through tires like oil.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Hi there, 

what was the outcome of your situation?, did you end up repalcing the whole rear axle beam, or just the bushings. I have the same issue as yours. I already ordered a new axle beam for my jetta 2001 VR6, paid $105 for it. Now I neeed to buy new bushings and new wheel bearings. I was told you need new wheel bearings when you replace the axle. 

thanks


----------



## Red_MK4 (Jun 26, 2009)

suscribed for future reference...


----------



## cadiz (Jan 9, 2009)

Red_MK4 said:


> suscribed for future reference...


 No feedback or update, on your particular situation with your jetta being out of aligment? 

thanks


----------



## jokerny77 (Jul 1, 2008)

tools needed to take them out small sledge, nice chisel and hack saw will do it. Easier than everyone makes it out to be. tools need to put the new ones in c clamp and 2 pieces of plywood cut down to size. takes about 2 hours complete.


----------



## gfurt (Oct 2, 2008)

*Two Slots Better than One*

I replaced my rear axel bushings last weekend using this thread. It was very helpful. I did do one thing different that worked well.

When I cut the Slot in the bushing sleeve I used a cordless sawzall with a good metal cutting bi-metal blade. I cut two slots about 1/2" apart at a slight angle to each other so I made a wedge with the wider side on the inside. I then took a big old, nearly indestructable slotted screwdriver I've had for years and got it under the sleeve and with a couple of whacks the whole 1/2" wide piece popped out. From there it was easy to get the screwdriver under one side and peel the rest of the sleeve out.

I did all of this with the axle still attached to the car hanging from the rear shocks. I did make a puller to pull the new bushings into the axle. Worked good but still kind of tricky.


----------



## wolfsburgy2 (Apr 29, 2004)

*Did not work for me!*

So tried replacing my rear axle bushings today. Was going to try the procedure without removing the axle. The bushing bolt nut loosened no problem, but there was no way I could remove the bolt. I tried hammering it from one side and prying it from the other. I can turn the bolt but there is no way I can pull it out:banghead:. I started to think maybe the bushing in a 2000 model is not replaceable? It certainly doesn't look like the new bushing I bought. It appears there is a metal tube core that the bolt runs through. I could barely squeeze a hacksaw blade up against the bolt and started trying to cut it out, but then thought, if this fails, I am stuck without a car! Is it possible after 10 years of rust, that the bolt is rusted to the inside of this metal core of the bushing, making it impossible to pull out?


----------



## genixia (Feb 8, 2002)

*2000 is possible.*

Just finished my 2000 Golf GLS with the axle still in the car. You might need to jack under the bushing to relieve pressure on the bolt in order to remove it.

What a pain in the arse of a job though. I made a poor man's puller, but even so keeping the bushings centered was a pain. Removed the old bushings with BFH, cold chisel and sawzill. My drivers side was so far gone the inner just pushed out by hand  Passenger side needed a few whacks with the BFH.

The metal casing is actually two parts - the outer sleeve that folds in on the outside end, and an inner section that is folded outwards at the inside end to form the lip that everyone hammers on. (Yeah, it's tough to describe, there's some good photos in the previous page). That inner section is for the main part thin, but has a thick ring at the *outside* end. Cut a small section of that ring first, then hammer the lip and the inner section comes out easily. Then you can see what you're doing with the outer section. Cut a slot, then lever it in on itself and it'll come right out.

Looking forward to a knock free existence.


----------



## wolfsburgy2 (Apr 29, 2004)

*Might try again*

Thanks Genixia, I tried the jack under the axle and lifted it to all different heights in an attempt to relieve pressure from the bushing bolt, but as I described the bolt turns but does not pull out:banghead:. I think I will take the plunge and try cutting the bolt on both sides of the bolt and hopefully the axle will swing out.
The bolt was one reason I thought maybe my model isn't replaceable, the other is, my sleeve looks like it is welded to the axle as one piece, although it could be completely rusted to the axle after 10 years making it appear to be one piece.
I am glad you mentioned the bit about the lips, it appears as though on the outside edge there are tabs that bend inward, I thought these were part of the axle, but you are saying this is part of the inner ring that gets hammered out after cutting the length of the inner sleeve,yes?
Given the amount of rust, if I do manage to remove the bolts, I think I will be removing my axle because it looks as though getting my rusted pieces out will be a struggle. Might grind some rust off and repaint while it is out:thumbup:


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

My driver's side axle bolt also siezed in the bushing. I took the sawzall out and just cut both sides. They are two different kinds of metal, and the galvanic action fuses them.

The lips you mention are part of the bushing sleeve, not the axle.

Removing the axle is easy. Just take it all the way out so it will be easier to replace the bushings, and you could POR-15 the rust while it's out.


----------



## wolfsburgy2 (Apr 29, 2004)

*One more try!*

Thanks Zak, I've been pleasantly surprised that people are still following this thread. I'm not giving up! Will try again this weekend.
The dealer wanted $500 to do this, I figure my shop rates are lower
I will look for that POR-15 it seems like a good product:thumbup:


----------



## Dub'tastic (Dec 25, 2007)

looks like i can use my bushing press on this project thanks for the great photos also....:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## cadiz (Jan 9, 2009)

wolfsburgy2 said:


> Thanks Zak, I've been pleasantly surprised that people are still following this thread. I'm not giving up! Will try again this weekend.
> The dealer wanted $500 to do this, I figure my shop rates are lower
> I will look for that POR-15 it seems like a good product:thumbup:


 Well, since I brought this thread back from the death, I let you know that today I brought in my car to the shop, they will replace the whole rear axle beam, put in new bushings and new wheel bearings, they will charge me $281 with alignment included. I supply all the parts. The axle beam cost me $190 including shipping, bushings about $40 and Wheel bearings $55. 

I will update later today as to the out come of this, i am hoping the car can get aligned in the back. Originally the toe was out of whack, and could not be aligned at all. 

Cadiz


----------



## tedzap (Sep 24, 2010)

*bentley instructions*

In the Bentley manual it talks about measuring the distance from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender before you start, and then making sure it is in that same position when you tighten the axle bushing bolts. I think it said this is to avoid preloading the bushings... Is this the reason why several posters mentioned lowering the car down oonto the ground before tightening these bolts? 

In other words, is tightening once on the ground sufficient, or do I need to measure this and that. 

Thanks!


----------



## Black_falcon (Oct 13, 2010)

Nice write up!


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

tedzap said:


> In the Bentley manual it talks about measuring the distance from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender before you start, and then making sure it is in that same position when you tighten the axle bushing bolts. I think it said this is to avoid preloading the bushings... Is this the reason why several posters mentioned lowering the car down oonto the ground before tightening these bolts?
> 
> In other words, is tightening once on the ground sufficient, or do I need to measure this and that.
> 
> Thanks!


 yep--barely snug the bolts with the car in the air, and toque them with the wheels on the ground. This puts 0 pre-load on the bushings, whereas the measurement method would only be approximate. 

They are easy to reach with the car on the ground as well.


----------



## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

So about the method that masterje posted with the wood blocks. The bolts that hold the beam are taken off and the beam just hangs by the shock bolts right? Has anyone else tried this method and avoided bleeding the brakes? I would like to avoid that :/


----------



## tedzap (Sep 24, 2010)

zak said:


> yep--barely snug the bolts with the car in the air, and toque them with the wheels on the ground. This puts 0 pre-load on the bushings, whereas the measurement method would only be approximate.
> 
> They are easy to reach with the car on the ground as well.


 

excellent, that is what I figured - but thought I would get confirmation. 

THANKS!


----------



## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

So does the car need to be completely on the ground (sitting freely) or just the wheels? I think it would be hard to torque the bolt with a lowered car :/


----------



## tedzap (Sep 24, 2010)

bboy_jon said:


> So does the car need to be completely on the ground (sitting freely) or just the wheels? I think it would be hard to torque the bolt with a lowered car :/


 
Remember this is just the pivot point, and the springs are actually holding up the weight. The load goes from the chassis, through the spring, through the tire patch to the ground... It is very nearly a straight line from the top spring mount to the ground. These axle pivots are simply locating the axle and won't have much load when the car is at rest. 

As I understand how these bushings work, the outer part is fixed to the axle, and the inner sleeve is torqued to the mounting point on the chassis. When the rear axle goes through it's angular motion, it's the deformation of the rubber that is allowing the movement. 

By torquing these when the car has it's full weight on the ground (at rest) you are ensuring that there is no angular preload on the rubber which would cause premature wear.


----------



## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

I see, i just dont understand how one could properly torque with the car on the ground 

also about the method that masterje posted with the wood blocks. The bolts that hold the beam are taken off and the beam just hangs by the shock bolts right? Has anyone else tried this method and avoided bleeding the brakes? I would like to avoid that :/


----------



## tedzap (Sep 24, 2010)

I haven't done this job yet (so haven't tried his method). Because I also am going to be installing an idparts "internal" rear sway bar I am going to remove my axle. Drilling holes in it will be much easier on a drill press than under the car. 

Someone suggested using the bleeder rubber caps to plug the brake lines you disconnect, this will minimize fluid loss (and the amount of bleeding required). Good idea, thanks. 

If I were going to try and do this without removing the axle, I wouldn't be worried about letting it hang by the shocks, if that gave you enough room to work. If it didn't I would fabricate some kind of loop at the top shock mount and have adjustable straps that hang down to cradle the outer end of the axle. 

This probably wouldn't balance well, so I would also put a strap near the middle of the axle, hanging from the exhaust hanger. Looking under there I didn't see much else you could hang from.


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

bboy_jon said:


> So about the method that masterje posted with the wood blocks. The bolts that hold the beam are taken off and the beam just hangs by the shock bolts right? Has anyone else tried this method and avoided bleeding the brakes? I would like to avoid that :/


 Avoiding bleeding the brakes takes more work than bleeding them, unless you are working with the car on a lift and have air tools. 

If you're doing it in your driveway, then do yourself a favor and remove the axle. I tried it without removing it at first and wasted time, unable to accomplish the job. With the axle out, it's much easier.


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

bboy_jon said:


> I see, i just dont understand how one could properly torque with the car on the ground


 It was easy for me to reach the bolt and nut with my car on the ground. But I am not lowered very much--Neuspeed SofSports.


----------



## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

is there a tutorial for bleeding the brakes? I dont know how and I couldnt find anything good.


----------



## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

The torque spec on the bushings bolts and the axle bolts?


----------



## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

please does, anyone know the torque specs? Also any advice getting the bushings out? The hammer/chisel method isnt working. How can I burn it out?


----------



## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

man holy ****. What a horrible horrible job. I started saturday afternoon, and finally got done at midnight (monday if you want to be technical). Worked on it for approx. 20 hours...god damn. I really dont know if it was worth saving $300 or so...I did gain some mechanical experience but I also lost my entire weekend...

Anyways, I left the axle on the car and I agree with everyone else...dont do it...it would be waaay easier with it off the car although it is def. do able with it on. I told my dad it would probably be easier if we took it out but he also did not want to bleed the brakes :/ All you have to do though is unclip some brake lines, and lower the axle, making sure that the lines are free to move through their mounting holes.

To get it done I basically used every method described. I threw the bushings in the freezer (a big stand alone chest freezer) for more than 24 hours...I dont know for sure but I dont think it made a difference at all. 

The hardest part was getting the bushings out. They were siezed in the axle like no other; I pounded with a hammer/chisel and got no where. Even took an air chisel and a propane torch and got no where. The method that worked was to take a sawzall, cut the lip off (that you normally would pound with the hammer) and cut directly through the center all the way through to the sleave (cut through the entire diameter of the bushing) and once cut, use a small pry bar and pry each side and it pops right out. The sleeves we just cut a single line through and chiseled it out. 

Getting the bushing in was a pain, I bought a rod, and some washers (broke several). We got it in half way and hammered the rest although it stopped moving with about an inch left. At that point we took the rod and put a piece of wood (drilled a hole through it) and used a crow bar to pull in every direction while hammering. Worked pretty well.

The results: Well, my bushings were ****. I couldnt even get an alignment in the rear because they sucked so bad. The car feels a lot tighter and bumps arent as ****ty...than again I did adjust my shock travel and dampening on my coilovers :/ 

Anyways, seriously, pay to have this done, otherwise good luck


----------



## 03 jetta GLI (Sep 27, 2006)

*Torquing*

I have bushings on the way. I'm probably gonna freeze the parts with dry ice the heat the beam up a little to aide with the install. Should be cake.

BTW I'm not taking the axle out of the car, I have an air chisel.

Anyway my main question is when torquing down the bolts, would it be wise to fill the gas tank to to have the least amount of twist on the bushings once finished? 

It probably wouldn't make too much of a difference but about 14 gallons of gas isn't exactly light!

Let me hear what you think. :beer:


----------



## tedzap (Sep 24, 2010)

LOL, good point. I guess to get the bushings as neutral as possible you should have your normal load (including your normal fuel load). Are you a "keep it full" or "run it empty" kinda guy?

In reality the full fuel load is about 90# (6.42#/gal as I recall), and +/- 45# is pretty small in comparison to the weight of the car. Probably not enough variation to worry about.


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

03 jetta GLI said:


> I have bushings on the way. I'm probably gonna freeze the parts with dry ice the heat the beam up a little to aide with the install. Should be cake.
> 
> BTW I'm not taking the axle out of the car, I have an air chisel.
> 
> ...


 If you want to be anal, do it with the tank 1/2 filled. That way you are never too far off. If you did it with a full tank and ran it near empty, you'd have a bigger difference. 

But I don't think filling the tank puts much of a twist on the bushings. Now from full droop to ride-height? That's got to be 50 degrees or more.


----------



## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

03 jetta GLI said:


> I have bushings on the way. I'm probably gonna freeze the parts with dry ice the heat the beam up a little to aide with the install. Should be cake.
> 
> BTW I'm not taking the axle out of the car, I have an air chisel.
> 
> ...


I figured the air chisel would make easy work, and it might, but dont get your hopes up :/ be ready for some work


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

Taking the axle all the way out makes this job sooooooo much easier. Unless maybe if you have a lift. 

It's nothing to disconnect the brake lines and then bleed them after you reinstall the beam.

I to thought leaving it in place was the way to go, but I soon realized I was making the task monumentally more difficult by leaving it on the car. This was in the driveway, mind you.

I tried to use a long bolt with big fender washers and dry ice, but that wasn't doing it at all. I (we) had to use a honking clamp to start the bushings and then a 12-ton press to get the bushings in. Never would have happened on the ground on my back under the car.


----------



## 03 jetta GLI (Sep 27, 2006)

Yea I just got the bushings today and peeked under there. I'd have to disconnect the brake line anyway because I have stainless lines. 

Odd thing is the Meyle bushings are not perfectly round, they are sort of oblong/oval. Dunno if I should call and complain about them. 

I figure if they are not perfectly round and you freeze them solid the won't go in until they warm up becoming malleable to be able to take the shape of the bushing housing.



(Oh the air chisel made the front bushing removal a breeze)


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

Mine weren't perfectly round, either. Makes insertion kind of a bitch.

The dry ice didn't really do anything for me. I got the bushing lined up with the housing in a huge vice and started tightening it. I had to use a drift and hammer the parts of the bushing sleeve that bulged out around the bearing until it was in the housing about 1/2" or so.

When it wouldn't go any further in the vice, we lifted the beam and used the press and spacers to get them all the way in.


----------



## tedzap (Sep 24, 2010)

If you aren't in a time crunch I would send the non-round bushings back. Why make this more difficult than it is? I got a set of Bilstein-Febi from idparts and they are round.


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

They are in plastic casings now instead of metal. I think they all will not be perfectly round. And even if they were, they start to flex and deform as soon as you start trying to get them in the beam.


----------



## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

Im pretty sure mine were pretty close to being round


----------



## tedzap (Sep 24, 2010)

I haven't measured them, but I usually can see out-of-round pretty good with my eyes. I would guess that these are perfectly round. (Bilsteins from idparts)


mine do have plastic shells. 


I have not tried to press them in yet, but looked through my wheel bearing tools and found a sleeve that is just bigger than the rubber, but still solid on the outer shell. I am hoping that this will be a trivial job using this sleeve.


----------



## tedzap (Sep 24, 2010)

*bushings in...*

Well, I dropped the axle yesterday and installed the bushings this afternoon. 

Removing the old bushings was, as posted here, a PITA. Once I had them out, I had a lot of crud that I had to chip out with a screwdriver, and then polish with a rough sanding ball chucked in a drill.

Installation was interesting. I went into this project with a steel tube that was wider than the rubber insert, but still firmly on the plastic. The perfect pressing tool in my opinion. My hope was that I would be able to use this tube and a draw rod to press the bushing into the axle.

Basically the plastic lip was not strong enough, it deformed and the tube went around the outside of the lip.


Plan B. I reverted to an old bearing race that matched up well against the outer rubber parts of the bushing. The rubber part isn't perfectly flat, so I had to add about an eighth inch on one side so it would push relatively evenly. I used a small wrench as a spacer.

The hardest part was getting it started. Once it was started I could easily keep it going straight with a good whack from a hammer. I learned from the first one, and on the second one I used an air wrench to tighten the draw rod while I tapped on it with the hammer to keep it going straight.

what was good: 
The contraption I put together to try and press the bearing in was a draw bolt (7/16 all-thread), a washer, a piece of pipe, and an old bearing on each side of the bushing. When I had this thing tightened up I could hit it with a hammer and the bushing would move- even if it was cocked.


What was not expected: The plastic part of the bushing was quite pliable. I began to think of it as a harder rubber. The bushing is a larger diameter than the hole it was being pressed into, and as you press it in, the part yet to be pressed in bulges out elastically. I was concerned that it would buckle at this bulge, but it continued to squeeze down iinto the axle as it went along, and didn't get more difficult. Metal would have bulged out until it creased and you would be looking for a new bushing.


Does this make sense? it had very elastic properties. For this reason I don't think it matters if you heat the metal, or freeze the bushing. While these are effective for metal parts, the temperature variation is trivial compared to the natural bulging this thing is going to do. It also doesn't much matter whether the thing is round. When the bushing was about halfway in, it looked like the outside diameter of the bushing was larger than *outside* of the metal tube I was driving it into..

These plastic housings are a neat design.



Good luck all! I am off to install that rear sway bar.


----------



## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

question...so there is adjustability for aligning the rear right? Before replacing the bushing my tires have very similar wear...mostly on the passenger side as the wheel was noticeably cambered out. I took my car to have it aligned and the shop told me the rear is not adjustable... :/ 

Is it or is it not? The shop is a pretty reputable shop too.


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

For an issue with camber, small adjustments can be made with shims to the rear. 

Toe can be equalized in the rear by adjusting the brackets (on the frame rails where the new bushings are).


----------



## tedzap (Sep 24, 2010)

*rear end adjust*

The axle is bolted (through the bushings) to the car at a big pair of brackets. These brackets (or hangers) are bolted to a reinforced part of the undercarriage. 

From my uderstanding of the previous posts, the hangers have slotted holes where they are bolted to the undercarriage. This does would allow some adjustment of the rear alignment. 

A few things of note. Some folks said that their rear alignment woes were cured with new bushings, so I wouldn't adjust this till after the bushing replacement and a negative alignment report. 

My bushings had come apart, and the axle was slid all the way drivers side. I am sure my alignment was poor as a result. 

Looking at the hangers on my car, there are "alignment paint marks" on the bolts which attach the hangers to the frame, suggesting that it is indeed adjustable. These kind of paint marks are usually so the technician can tell immediately if a critical adjustment has been tampered with since it left the factory. 

Good luck!


----------



## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

Should I bother than? I think it is fixed...the wheel is no where near cambered and I saw a stock gti today, looks about the same. 

The bushing on that side was pretty janky before replacing


----------



## tedzap (Sep 24, 2010)

*only as a last resort...*

I wouldn't adjust the axle location unless I had done everything else... it would be my final attempt to rectify a known problem. In other words, what are the actual alignment numbers? Are your wheel bearings in good repair? Are you sure that the axle isn't bent? 

I am fortunate to have a good alignment shop that I trust, and I would probably get them to make the adjustments, they could do this while measuring the numbers. It would save me from going back and forth.


----------



## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

The rear drivers side has -1.7 degrees camber and -.33 toe. The passengers (this was thereally cambered wheel) is -2.0 camber and -0.08 toe


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

Assuming you have new bushings in as noted above, adjusting the axle hangers only equalizes toe (lessens one side while increasing the other by the same amount). The specs are


> rear toe specified range is -0.09 to 0.57


 You could slide it a 1/4" and wind up with both wheels at -.205 toe if I am reading your numbers right. 

On a properly aligned car, the rear tires have noticeable camber. Rear camber is about -1.5* stock. 

Bring it to a good shop. I think you will be back in specs fairly easily.


----------



## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

thats probably what Ill do


----------



## Trackrocket (Nov 15, 2010)

I've read this entire thread and just HAVE to say that I find it farking HILARIOUS that some of you are willing to take on this bear of a job yet you fret over removing the entire axle and/or bleeding your brakes!  

NO offense intended - just sayin...so quit being a buncha Sallys!!  

Certainly, this thread has been of great help in planning my job. I bought my 20th AE two months ago and have been slowly replacing things such as LCA bushings, shock mounts, etc. and have yet to attack the rear axle beam job...it is about 2 jobs down the list as it needs to get a bit warmer so I can sandblast in the back yard. 

I've undertaken several jobs like this, but mostly with Porsche 911/944s that use aluminum trailing arms...changing the cartridge wheel bearings and whatnot. I find this axle beam to have similar characteristics to changing bushings in an E30 BMW rear axle, not the same setup, but it's steel, a PITA to work with and burning the bushings out is certainly an option!  

I have a LARGE ball joint C-clamp type toolset with several different sized cups/rings - found it very useful for the front LCA bushings and hope that it'll be helpful with the rear axle beam bushings...if not, will definitely revert to the threaded rod/bolt/beefy washer procedure. 

My observations from experience: 

There is absolutely NO doubt in my mind, that I will be REMOVING the rear axle beam, entirely...it just makes sense as I can see it taking more time and effort to attempt this procedure with it in the car...plus it gives one a far greater opportunity to clean things up.  

FREEZING your rear bushings is helpful, at a minimum, it can't hurt. I do that with cartridge type wheel bearings...with aluminum housings, I gently heat up the I.D. with a map gas torch and yes, the bearings drop right in. The hardened steel bearings have FAR more material than the thin-walled O.D. of the rear axle bushings, or most other bushings for that matter...so they won't remain cold for very long, the bearings remain cold for a few seconds, just long enough to drop 'em in before the heated up trailing arm heat-soaks 'em. 

HEATING UP the "ring" that the bushing presses into is certainly an option as well. If you have the patience, use a heat gun as you will get far more even heating, deeper into the material, etc. I'm not that patient so will most likely opt for the map torch.  

While freezing the bushing and heating up the axle beam "ring" where the bushing goes may not offer a 100% installation solution...I'll bet it will provide a means to get the bushing started in the hole, without much drama...then the C-clamp/press/threaded rod solution can be called to action without further drama. 

If the I.D. of the "rings" on your rear axle beam are hosed up (I.E. bent from bushing removal with chisel, etc. - then definitely take some emory cloth or a carefully wielded dremel and clean the burrs/dents up...other than that, use some Simple Green or Purple cleaner and a good 3M/Scotchbrite pad to clean up the I.D. - this will facilitate a MUCH smoother installation, no matter what method you use. DO NOT excessively sand the I.D. of the "ring" as yes, duh...you run the risk of removing too much material...jeopardizing the tight fit needed to hold the bushing for it's lifespan. 

I don't believe that the use of any grease/lubricant will facilitate easier installation, nor do I think this will be the death of your "tight" installation...so the choice is up to you. 

I bought a pair of the Meyle bushings and am thoroughly disappointed with what I see. I just paid for a set of the latest VW bushings and will certainly return the Meyles. 

Thanks again to the OP for the original writeup, you have inspired me to go for the sandblast/repaint technique! ...should I paint the axle beam Jazz Blue? Hahahahaha...kidding, well, maybe.


----------



## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

Personally, as much as a pita the job was with the beam still on, it wasnt THAT bad. What took the most time was figuring what works best. If I were to do this again I could probably do it pretty quickly. When I did do it, I ended up using every method discussed in this thread and I ended up having to figure something out on my own (ie cutting the old bushings out and using a bar connected to the bushing to pull and a hammer to push) 

Heating the beam and cooling the bushings imo, dont help very much. If it helps at all, I couldnt imagine doing this without heating/cooling. By the time you figure out how ridiculously tight the fit is, the bushing is already warmed up :/


----------



## maradits (Aug 3, 2010)

so can anyone confirm that replacing the bushings can solve the rear tire eating issue? nobody who mentioned they were having this problem updated after installing the bushings... just very curious because my car is eating the inner rear tires like crazy. :beer:


----------



## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

My passenger side rear tire was cambered as hell and the bushing replacement somewhat fixed it...looks to be a little bit more cambered than normal (compared to my driver side) but I feel that my tires are still going to wear unevenly...I dont know if there is anyway around that though


----------



## Trackrocket (Nov 15, 2010)

Maradits, given the design of the rear suspension, and the problem you're having...unless your axle beam is bent in some way, I could all but guarantee it will vastly improve your situation, at a minimum.

Another thing to consider is shock wear, ride height, etc.


----------



## Trackrocket (Nov 15, 2010)

bboy_jon, of course you could see how having the beam out would've made things easier to work with and the angles afforded for smacking bushings out, heating things up, etc. - and if you did it on the ground (underneath the car) that's pretty close quarters to be doing all of that! 

The added bonus of being able to blast/prime/paint the beam solidifies my decision to pull it all out.

Waiting for the latest factory bushings, bought from another Texer'.


----------



## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

Oh yeah, it def. would have saved me time figuring out how to get at the bushings, but if I had to do it again, I would probably leave it on the car again or atleast wait until I have a reason to disconnect the brake lines and what not :/


----------



## maradits (Aug 3, 2010)

Trackrocket said:


> Maradits, given the design of the rear suspension, and the problem you're having...unless your axle beam is bent in some way, I could all but guarantee it will vastly improve your situation, at a minimum.
> 
> Another thing to consider is shock wear, ride height, etc.


thanks for the reply, i'll give it a go for sure!


----------



## builtvw (Sep 20, 2009)

bump for future


----------



## gtihoot (Aug 21, 2001)

*bushing tool on ebay*

I am planning to do this soon and found this on ebay, anyone has experience with this tool?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-A...Z400196759572QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

Thanks


----------



## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

Oh wow, didnt realize anyone actually produced a tool for it (besides the machined one on here)

It should work, its just some rods and some plates, but it can be done without it. Just gotta improvise


----------



## alomI wolleY iTG (Dec 7, 2003)

Check out this pic at ECS of Meyle's axle bushing.

I have never seen this design before. What's going on?

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-337_20AE--1.8T/ES258198/

BTW, I have the SEAT Leon Cupra R versions waiting to go on. Labor to swap them seems high, I'm going to wait.


----------



## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

wtf, thats really strange looking. Maybe the 337/20th is a little different?


----------



## alomI wolleY iTG (Dec 7, 2003)

I have a 20th and the original axle bushing does not look like that. Maybe ECS made a mistake.


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

alomI wolleY iTG said:


> I have a 20th and the original axle bushing does not look like that. Maybe ECS made a mistake.


I have read that the bushings in the 20th/337s was different than regular Golfs and GTis. The former were solid rubber, while the latter were hydraulic.

I believe that at some time after 03 VW stopped using the hydro bushings all together.

The sleeve on my stock (reg GTi) hydro bushings looked a bit different than the replacements--they did have a shoulder kind of like the ones in the ECS link, but nowhere near that big.


----------



## blacksheep312 (Apr 14, 2005)

*Lining up the Bushing*

I need some expertise on lining up the bushings. I can't seem to make sense of the Bentley Diagram. Based on these pics, does this look like the right angle of pressing the bushing in the correct direction? Any help or references would help me out. I just want to make sure I am putting them in correctly.


----------



## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

I think they are supposed to go in the other side (the side of the rotor) so the lip (on the bushing) will be on the outside. Thats how I did it (thats how my bushings were when I removed them atleast), I dont know if it would really matter though 

edit: lol I just checked...dont listen to me, you have it oriented right


----------



## Kcb (May 29, 2001)

any one put assembly grease into the kidney shape opening as indicating in the Bently? 

also, anyone jack up their axle to the natural position before tightening up the bolt?


----------



## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

Kcb said:


> any one put assembly grease into the kidney shape opening as indicating in the Bently?
> 
> also, anyone jack up their axle to the natural position before tightening up the bolt?


Which kidney shaped opening? I dropped the car onto the ground, than torqued the bolts.


----------



## Deadend (Nov 6, 2009)

*Shop Press*

Has anybody managed to install the bushings with a shop press? If so what kind of difficulties did you have? 

My plan, seeing as I don't have a garage full of odds and ends to keep improvising with, is to take it over to the lab where I work where there's a press, use two fitting pieces of hardwood on each end, and just use the press.

It'll require holding the axel way up in the air I guess, perhaps that's why some of the other posters have had machine shops give them a hassle about pressing them? But I figure that once I remove the spindles the thing couldn't weigh more then 60 lbs or so, two sets of hands ought to be able to hold that straight... I hope.


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

It's harder than you think to hold the axle in a press--it's heavy to hold so high, and it's an awkward angle.

We used a large vise to get them started with the axle on the ground. Once they were in about half way, we switched to the press because we needed to use the correct arbors and spacers.


----------



## gbovino (May 14, 2002)

Kcb said:


> any one put assembly grease into the kidney shape opening as indicating in the Bently?
> 
> also, anyone jack up their axle to the natural position before tightening up the bolt?


Was wondering the same thing. Looks like Bentley recommends VW's Lithium grease.


----------



## gbovino (May 14, 2002)

Did my bushings last Saturday... wanted to share my experience.

1) Raised one side of the car and support with 2-ton stands. Remove tires, disconnect the brake line. Support the rear axle under the spring with a jack. Remove lower bolt on the strut. Let the brake fluid drain into a container. Lower the axle with the jack. I didn't see how to get around the brake line, as lowering the rear axle beam seemed like it was putting strain on the brake hose.

2) Used a drill to drill around the perimeter of the old rubber bushing. Worked the drill into various parts like 10-15 times, until the rubber looked pretty mangled. Then I took a large wrench socket, one large enough to fit over the aluminum insert in the rubber bushing. Place it over the insert and whacked it once or twice with my 5 lb. hammer. Rubber innards shot out of the other side!

3) Now was left with the metal sleeve. Used a sawzall to cut two lines, about a 1/2 inch apart from each other. Then took a big ol' flathead screwdriver and wedged it up between the rear axle collar and sleeve. The sleeve pretty much popped out after that.

4) Went to Ace and picked up two cast iron pipe flanges, and I think a 3/8" threaded rod with various washers, nuts, etc. Used an old bearing on the driving side (side facing away from you as you work - side that faces center of car). On this same side, use the flat side of one of the flange against the bushing with washers and bearing (bearing can be optional I guess). On the side you are pulling to, have the flat side of the other flange facing you (so the threaded hump actually fits inside the rear axle sleeve) with washers.

5) Now the tricky part... drive the nut 1/2 a turn at a time. Keep an eye on the bushing checking it each time from the top and side for proper alignment. If it starts cocking, then just re-adjust with your hand. But soon, you won't be able to adjust with your hand, so use a rubber mallet to re-align it. If the rubber mallet doesn't re-align it, back off a 1/4 turn on the nut, and re-align it with the rubber mallet. If the bushing keeps cocking to one side after re-aligning, then overcompensate in the other direction when you whack it with the rubber mallet. Keep going and you'll get to a point where it's pretty much 1/2 way in and drive that baby home.

I actually cracked one of the plastic sleeves because I didn't do the alignment portion, thinking it would straighten out by itself. Luckily VW parts department was open until 4pm on Saturday! 

6) Reassemble everything with new bolts and nuts on the rear bushing. Tighten (but not too tight). Then put the tire on, lower the car and torque the rear axle bolt and rear strut bolt to spec.

Project should have taken about 3-4 hours. Actual: 9+ hours running between home and Ace to buy the flanges and VW to buy a new bushing. Also did everything laying down in a cramped one car garage. Definitely felt it the next day. 

However, car rides like new again! 

EDIT: Oh, and did a brake flush the next day with the wife. :what: She didn't get the pump and retain brake pedal pressure concept. Taking it in for a flush tomorrow.


----------



## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

So you left the beam on the car like I did :laugh: Mine took longer though :thumbup:


----------



## gbovino (May 14, 2002)

Yip! Left the beam on. However, I'm guessing I was only a few steps away from just removing the darn thing as I disconnected the brake lines. I'm guessing I could have just jacked up both sides, supported, removed the brake lines and just dropped the entire beam.

Would have been easier on my backs and knees, assuming I had someone else to help move it around and re-install it.


----------



## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

Yeah, you might as well have taken it out  

I left everything connected which is why I left mine in


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

My issue with our MK6 rear end noise was related to an end link bolt that came loose. That's all folks


----------



## gusbus1.8t (Mar 30, 2011)

i have the same problem as most of youll!! i changed my bushings as well for my mkIV jetta and it didnt help a bit and my rear beam is not bent.. so whats the problem? anyone know what to fix? heres the numbers.. hope youll can help tires are expensive lol! 
and after


----------



## DubberX (Mar 1, 2011)

The bushings have gaps strategically placed to allow some movement of the axle when cornering...very important to get this part right.


----------



## DubberX (Mar 1, 2011)

gusbus1.8t said:


> i have the same problem as most of youll!! i changed my bushings as well for my mkIV jetta and it didnt help a bit and my rear beam is not bent.. so whats the problem? anyone know what to fix? heres the numbers.. hope youll can help tires are expensive lol!
> and after


No amount of shifting and tweaking that axle will ever get your numbers right...those figures spell excessive toe out (scrubbing of rear tires). I do know that shim kits are available for some vehicles. I've used them on old MKIIs, with rear drum brakes, but I'm sure they were available for disc models as well. Some of these kits would allow you to dial-in correct toe AND camber for each rear wheel. Check out Moog, I think they might have something.


----------



## gusbus1.8t (Mar 30, 2011)

DubberX said:


> No amount of shifting and tweaking that axle will ever get your numbers right...those figures spell excessive toe out (scrubbing of rear tires). I do know that shim kits are available for some vehicles. I've used them on old MKIIs, with rear drum brakes, but I'm sure they were available for disc models as well. Some of these kits would allow you to dial-in correct toe AND camber for each rear wheel. Check out Moog, I think they might have something.


thanks man!:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## ddurang (May 16, 2011)

*Did this this weekend.*

I don't usually post in these type of threads, but after the success I had doing this repair, I felt it necessary. While this was a time consuming project, I was able to complete the job using most if not all the information in the original DIY as well as the reply comments. Hardest part was removing the bushing pivot bolts from the bushing. They was galvanic corrosion in the sleeve that made it tough to bang out the bolts. Took about an hour on one side with the bracket removed from the car with the axle carrier. Once that was done removal of the old bushing and sleeve was a breeze and installation of the new one was easy with my own threaded rod poor-man's press. New bushing pulled right in in about 5 minutes each.

Because of the hard to remove pivot bolt, there was no way to do this easily on the car. If those bolts came out without much effort, doing it on the car would have been pretty easy as well.

Anyway, thanks for the original post as well as all the comments.


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

Hey guys, I'm the author of this thread. Glad to see it has been so useful for people. Regarding installation of the new bushings, they key is in studying this picture carefully:










The alignment notch, the metal seam in the axle....bushing installs from the 'inside' opening, i.e. you are driving it toward the outside. Study the orig pics. 

Glad some of you have found alternate ways of applying pressure to the bushing. My hammer and clamp method wasn't very elegant, not by a long-shot! Seems incredible that some of you have done this job with the axle in the car...dropping the axle is really much easier than it may appear....I just dropped it again because this axle is getting sold (parting out the car), and it only took like 1/2 hour. Tricky-est part for me are the different clips for the brake lines.


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

ddurang said:


> Because of the hard to remove pivot bolt, there was no way to do this easily on the car. If those bolts came out without much effort, doing it on the car would have been pretty easy as well.
> 
> Anyway, thanks for the original post as well as all the comments.


 Mine was siezed on one side as well. I just used a Sawzall to cut the bolt. I had already bought new hardware at VW since these are 1-time use bolts anyway. 

And taking out the bracket will affect the rear-end alignment, so you have to get it checked and aligned at a shop afterward.


----------



## 355 (Jun 10, 2011)

Just did one side of my sons Jetta and it was actually fun to do. BTW the long bolts are not one time use only. The VW mechanics said they never replace them and at that stealership they are a special order. I did mine with the axle in place. Lowered it a bit and once unbolted the old bushing takes all of 5 minutes to remove with a the help of a sawsall. I used threaded rod to pull the new bushing in place. You wont believe what I used to pull it on the other end as the bushing will protrude a little. Get a piece of plywood(3/4") Cut 3 pieces 3.5" X 3.5". Take 2 pieces and clue them together. Now using a hole saw on a drill(the same hole saw as used in boring a hole in your interior doors for the door knob 2.1/8" diameter) Mark the center a bore right through the 2 pieces of 3/4" that you glued together. Then drill a .5" hole through the exact center of the remaining piece of 3.5"X3.5" plywood and then glue it squre to the other 2 pieces. When dry, use a chop saw and cut the corners off the block you now have. Sand the edges and you now have your puller. Lock 2 nuts together on your 3/8" rod which is 10" long and insert a washer and feed your new bushing on to it. Feed the rod with the bushing through the axle and back toward you (mind thebushing position) You will now have the rod pointing through the frame right in your face. Slide the your new puller on with the hollow side facing in to the axle. Slide on a washer and then the nut and take up the slack. Remeber that your new bushing and the clean axle housing should already be lubed. Line up the bushing with the axle hole and start to tighten the nut on your side. Once snug you will need a wrench on the back side to stop it from turning. Use a rubber mallet to keep it in line if it twists or move off line. You may have to back off and restart untill in begins to pull in straight. Once it starts moving in, every 2 complete turns on the nut you will have to use the mallet to hit the bushing firmly and you will see it jump ahead. Do this untill you see the bushing seated all the way in.


----------



## 355 (Jun 10, 2011)

gusbus1.8t said:


> i have the same problem as most of youll!! i changed my bushings as well for my mkIV jetta and it didnt help a bit and my rear beam is not bent.. so whats the problem? anyone know what to fix? heres the numbers.. hope youll can help tires are expensive lol!
> and after


Your axle is not bent but your trailing arm is. Get hold of a cheap lazer level. I have one that is 16" long and with the hub caps off it sits right on the edge of the rim. Drive your car straight and come to a stop while perfectly straight on level ground. Put your lazer level(regular level with a lazer built in) on the rear rim and aim your lazer to hit the ground beside your front tire. The lazer should hit just outside where your front tire touches the ground. Both sides should be the same. Usually the axle and or trailing arm bend when hitting big pot holes and they usual bend to the back making the tire point outward. If this is so then your lazer will hit the ground 2 or more inches outside your front tire compared to the other side. Of course the distance outside the front tire all depends on how you sit your level on the back wheel. Rember to rest the level on the rim and not the tire. If the level is too long to sit on the rim then build it out with something like a 2x2 but the 2x2 has to be perfectly straight. Whatever it is you use the measurements must be close to the same for each side.


----------



## 355 (Jun 10, 2011)

355 said:


> Just did one side of my sons Jetta and it was actually fun to do. BTW the long bolts are not one time use only. The VW mechanics said they never replace them and at that stealership they are a special order. I did mine with the axle in place. Lowered it a bit and once unbolted the old bushing takes all of 5 minutes to remove with a the help of a sawsall. I used threaded rod to pull the new bushing in place. You wont believe what I used to pull it on the other end as the bushing will protrude a little. Get a piece of plywood(3/4") Cut 3 pieces 3.5" X 3.5". Take 2 pieces and clue them together. Now using a hole saw on a drill(the same hole saw as used in boring a hole in your interior doors for the door knob 2.1/8" diameter) Mark the center a bore right through the 2 pieces of 3/4" that you glued together. Then drill a .5" hole through the exact center of the remaining piece of 3.5"X3.5" plywood and then glue it squre to the other 2 pieces. When dry, use a chop saw and cut the corners off the block you now have. Sand the edges and you now have your puller. Lock 2 nuts together on your 3/8" rod which is 10" long and insert a washer and feed your new bushing on to it. Feed the rod with the bushing through the axle and back toward you (mind thebushing position) You will now have the rod pointing through the frame right in your face. Slide the your new puller on with the hollow side facing in to the axle. Slide on a washer and then the nut and take up the slack. Remeber that your new bushing and the clean axle housing should already be lubed. Line up the bushing with the axle hole and start to tighten the nut on your side. Once snug you will need a wrench on the back side to stop it from turning. Use a rubber mallet to keep it in line if it twists or move off line. You may have to back off and restart untill in begins to pull in straight. Once it starts moving in, every 2 complete turns on the nut you will have to use the mallet to hit the bushing firmly and you will see it jump ahead. Do this untill you see the bushing seated all the way in.


Did the Drivers side also after my last post. It was in better shape and it took me more than 30 minutes but the whole job was done in 2 hours and when driving, the car fells much much tighter.


----------



## 355 (Jun 10, 2011)

355 said:


> Did the Drivers side also after my last post. It was in better shape and it took me more than 30 minutes but the whole job was done in 2 hours and when driving, the car fells much much tighter.


Sorry. I ment 30 minutes to get the old one out.


----------



## maradits (Aug 3, 2010)

355 said:


> Your axle is not bent but your trailing arm is. Get hold of a cheap lazer level. I have one that is 16" long and with the hub caps off it sits right on the edge of the rim. Drive your car straight and come to a stop while perfectly straight on level ground. Put your lazer level(regular level with a lazer built in) on the rear rim and aim your lazer to hit the ground beside your front tire. The lazer should hit just outside where your front tire touches the ground. Both sides should be the same. Usually the axle and or trailing arm bend when hitting big pot holes and they usual bend to the back making the tire point outward. If this is so then your lazer will hit the ground 2 or more inches outside your front tire compared to the other side. Of course the distance outside the front tire all depends on how you sit your level on the back wheel. Rember to rest the level on the rim and not the tire. If the level is too long to sit on the rim then build it out with something like a 2x2 but the 2x2 has to be perfectly straight. Whatever it is you use the measurements must be close to the same for each side.


the axle/trailing arm/torsion beam/etc are one piece on these cars unless you are referring to the stub axles on the torsion beam.


----------



## 355 (Jun 10, 2011)

maradits said:


> the axle/trailing arm/torsion beam/etc are one piece on these cars unless you are referring to the stub axles on the torsion beam.


I know. They bend back near the curve where the trailing arm starts. The long rod inside the beam used to be 18mm in diameter and bent easy. When VW realized this they later in around 2003 went to a 21mm diameter to hopefully strengthen the beam.


----------



## volks25 (Dec 14, 2001)

Just finished this DIY, fun times :screwy:

One one side, the bushing shifted as I was hammering it in. My RR wheel now has a bit of an angle to it, which I didn't really notice before. 

Question is, does the orientation of these bushings affect the alignment at all ??


----------



## 355 (Jun 10, 2011)

It can only go in straight. It will not effect the alignment. If your alignment is out then your axle is bent. The earlier axles have a weaker torsion bar which is 18mm diameter and the newer ones are a bit stronger and are 21mm in diameter.


----------



## gbovino (May 14, 2002)

volks25 said:


> Just finished this DIY, fun times :screwy:
> 
> One one side, the bushing shifted as I was hammering it in. My RR wheel now has a bit of an angle to it, which I didn't really notice before.
> 
> Question is, does the orientation of these bushings affect the alignment at all ??


I think it can affect your front end alignment (although not always). I say this because in my case, my right rear bushing had collapsed. It was always hit hard on that side over bumps, etc. I had new tires put a few months before (with the collapsed bushing - unaware) and had an alignment done. Drove nice and straight. I then swapped out the rear bushings, and then my car starting pulling to the side a bit. So I would say yes, it is possible, depending on the condition of your rear bushings and if you had an alignment done with them in that condition.


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

volks25 said:


> Just finished this DIY, fun times :screwy:
> 
> One one side, the bushing shifted as I was hammering it in. My RR wheel now has a bit of an angle to it, which I didn't really notice before.
> 
> Question is, does the orientation of these bushings affect the alignment at all ??


If the bushing is not oriented properly, the axle will not keep its alignment during compression, and the bushing will wear out prematurely. You notice how the angle of the bushing is different than the wheel's arc of motion. This is designed to force the rear wheels to turn a bit during compression. 

With the bushings in the correct orientation, the voids allow the designed motion. If they are in the wrong orientation, the rubber will get torn as axle moves through its arc. Steel > rubber.


----------



## 355 (Jun 10, 2011)

*If anyone needs help*

I had fun doing this. If anyone in the Toronto area ever needs a hand doing this, just drop buy after picking up your bushings at Frisco for less than 50 bucks. Let me know.


----------



## bcruze (Jan 23, 2002)

gtihoot said:


> I am planning to do this soon and found this on ebay, anyone has experience with this tool?
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-A...Z400196759572QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools
> 
> Thanks


 I just got this, don't bother...it's a piece of ****. The auction and instructions say VW/Audi but the one they shipped me was labeled 'Vauxhaul Vectra' Rear Axle Bushing Insertion Tool. The i.d. of the hole in our axles is 72mm and the largest cup in the kit has an o.d. of only 55mm, so there's no way it'd work (pics below). I'd like to say they just sent me the wrong one, but it looks exactly like the one pictured in the auctions.  I'll be sending it back,


----------



## 355 (Jun 10, 2011)

Just follow my instructions on making one out of plywood. It takes all of 10 minutes and works like a charm.


----------



## eb2143 (Dec 10, 2006)

I just wanted to update with a few observations on this procedure, which I am in the middle of. 
I have the plastic new style, which were installed in no particular orientation by a shop that was clearly unaware that they have a marker and correct orientation. I felt that they were soft when the car was pushed hard. We will find out if this is just the nature of the new plastic-cased bushings (someone did mention/complain of this early in this thread :sly or whether they were worn, or whether the incorrect orientation was at fault.

One tip is that when you separate the brake lines, the fluid will continue to drip until air is ingested and you have a headache. Depress the brake pedal with a piece of wood to stop the steady flow of brake fluid. Now your brake lights are on, so I disconnected my battery.

On the removal of the new style bushings, using a chisel does not work because the lip is plastic and simply breaks off on your first couple of whacks. I don't know the best method. I got one out by using a dremel to cut a slot into which I could insert a Sawzall blade and punching out the middle. Then I cut into the plastic with a hacksaw blade removed them.

I know there are others who have perfected this operation using a specialized press, and they do it all with the axle still in the car. In fact, a guy over at TDIclub can do both sides start to finish in under 30 minutes.


----------



## USARMYMP (Sep 29, 2011)

*Suspension noise*

After installing new shocks, lowering springs and bushings on the rear suspension, on my way home from the place where I did the job, I heard a sound coming from the rear that sounds like something rubbing and gets louder with speed. I checked underneath the car and nothing is even close to touching the tires nor is the dust shield touching the rotor. I have no idea what it can be. Does anyone know what it may be? Thanks.


----------



## 355 (Jun 10, 2011)

Your rear wheels track a little different when the car is moving. Youll find it sooner or later. If your new springs are adjustable, try lifting it slightly and see if it helps.


----------



## 355 (Jun 10, 2011)

355 said:


> Your rear wheels track a little different when the car is moving. Youll find it sooner or later. If your new springs are adjustable, try lifting it slightly and see if it helps.


 You can also put chalk on your tires all the way around the edges(inside edge and outer) and see if it rubs off on anything.


----------



## USARMYMP (Sep 29, 2011)

I need to try something because that noise is very annoying. I just dont understand how that sound came about after changing the suspension and nothing else.


----------



## 355 (Jun 10, 2011)

You changed the ride height which changed other things like camber and castor. If you lowered the car drastically, then you will be running into other problems in the future.


----------



## WiscoVR6 (Jul 25, 2008)

Anyone having any clunking or any other weird sounds after installing new bushings, I swapped out my old bushings yesterday, and put in some polyurethane ecs bushings. Im no longer getting the massive thuds or clunks but still having some noise. 
also have brand new Raceland coils in the car, is there any other bushings that could be causing noise.


----------



## rex_racer (May 19, 2001)

Poly bushings squeak and bind. It is recommended to use the stock rubber bushing in the rear when you are due for replacement.


----------



## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

6R0 501 541 A still the newest part number? I was looking at the moog ones on advance since i have that 50 buck coupon, need to make up the difference.


----------



## VWZapper (Apr 14, 2002)

I've got some mean clunking in the rear with 300,000 miles on my 99.5 Jetta TDI. I have to check my bushings out. My shock mounts are original, but the shocks are not. I'm going to check them out too. I couldn't detect any slop in the shock mount and everything is properly torqued. Found this video on Youtube. If you advance it to about 10 miles, there is some good footage of the axle motion.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQLc62dpWSU


----------



## 2ManyKmFor1Tank (Aug 27, 2009)

VWZapper said:


> I've got some mean clunking in the rear with 300,000 miles on my 99.5 Jetta TDI. I have to check my bushings out. My shock mounts are original, but the shocks are not. I'm going to check them out too. I couldn't detect any slop in the shock mount and everything is properly torqued. Found this video on Youtube. If you advance it to about 10 miles, there is some good footage of the axle motion.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQLc62dpWSU


Do you happen to have a hitch on the car? What I did was jumped up and down on the tongue of my hitch and was able to better isolate where the clunks & rattles where coming from in my car. try putting your camera/cell phone camera directly under the rear axle bushings on one side at a time while you put weight on the rear end of the car, or better yet lay under it and have someone do it for you. Mine happened to be a strangely worn out bushing and the nut at the top of the shock had backed off about 1/8th of an inch, both on the same side.


----------



## 2003gtivr62.8liter (Sep 1, 2009)

I recently did my rear bushings and replaced them with poly bushings from ecstuning. I however did the whole thing with the axle basically still on the car. i just lowered it some and put some jack stands under it so it wouldn't hang by its own weight. I just used a 3 jaw puller to shoot out  the rubber bushing. It can be done this way just takes some time and a lot of cussing. No vise required.


----------



## kenter (Sep 29, 2009)

i did this this last weekend. only took about half hour to remove the old bushings.


ONE BIG TIP!!!
you DO NOT have to separate your brake lines.
remove the brake line retaining clip at the front of the axle/beam/arm. slide the brake line till the hard line is in the hole of the bracket. cut the bracket (i used a mini pneumatic recipricating saw)and bend it open removing the brake line from the bracket. i jsut cut the bracket completely off when removeing cause i was replacing the whole beam. upon reassembly just bend the bracket closed and put the clip on.


also should i tighten the bolts that go through the bushings with the car on the ground or when its in the air or when the arm is hanging?


----------



## legoleg (Sep 18, 2002)

First, thank you to gtveloce and this thread! You guys helped a lot! 

My friend and I just finished this job last night, the prep work took much longer than the actual job, but we did have to make room in the garage for the car and watch two little kids the whole time too. The hardest part was taking the old bushing out, but a sawzall helped there, though we did cut through the sleeve/cylinder the bushings go into, it seems to be holding there. Getting the bushing was easy with gtveloce's tool, it worked beautifully! Thanks! 

I noticed that it was better to sawzall the sleeve out with the blade to the side thats welded to the axle itself, more support there in case you do go through some.

My problem also has to do with the bolts once you have the axle on the car. I reused them which is probably bad, but it was dark and late and I didn't have new ones. Anyways, when I was underneath tightening them up (wheels installed and car sitting on the ground) I think I may have overtightened somehow and it seemed like the bolts got stripped. They haven't fallen off yet but maybe theres a rattle now when I go over a bump that wasn't there before. :/ I was just using hand tools and the bolts are pretty big, so its strange. :/

My question is this: Whats the theory behind those bolts? Do they just hold the axle on, or should the center cylinder of the bushing be tightened really tight to the bracket that hold it without slipping radially? So basically, can I just put on a new nut in addition to the original ones to stop it from falling off ( and not tightening it down further) or should I replace them both? ....and then, does anyone know the torque spec on them? Thanks!

Oleg


----------



## bootymac (Apr 19, 2005)

How do I inspect the rear axle bushings and what symptoms should I look for? My GTI only has 130,000km but it is nearly 12 years old so I am thinking of replacing aged suspension components soon. I plan on using Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings for the rear axle due to the ease of install.


----------



## The Kilted Yaksman (Oct 31, 2000)

bootymac said:


> How do I inspect the rear axle bushings and what symptoms should I look for? My GTI only has 130,000km but it is nearly 12 years old so I am thinking of replacing aged suspension components soon. I plan on using Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings for the rear axle due to the ease of install.


 Don't do it. Save up to have stock bushings put in. Poly rear beam bushings will not allow the rear suspension to articulate properly.


----------



## f1torrents (Nov 21, 2010)

Hey guys.
I picked up a set of Bonrath poly bushings "9014" but I'm unsure of the install orientation. Should the tapered end point toward the outside or inside of the car?
And after looking at the stock bushings I'm unsure of what is going to "hold" the bushing in place with these ones. There is no lip on the end and the tapered side is a smaller diameter than the squared off end.

Any thoughts?



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## f1torrents (Nov 21, 2010)

Another pic for reference.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## bootymac (Apr 19, 2005)

Not sure if this is relevant but the ES poly bushings are oriented with the tapered end facing in

http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edoc/Instal_Instruct.pdf


----------



## f1torrents (Nov 21, 2010)

Thanks for the info.
I have been searching everywhere for install instructions.
I still have no idea how to centre these things.
I may have to get another set..


----------



## legoleg (Sep 18, 2002)

My guess would be tapered end pointing out, as you pull them towards the outside of the car, and that end has more play, where the other (in)side is more solid rubber on the original ones.


----------



## rommeldawg (May 25, 2009)

^ i vote tapered pointing out. i just installed powerflex bushings from USRT last night. nice ride home! left the axle on the car just dropped it down to get the old ones out and new ones in... wasnt bad at all. no one at the shop recalled having done them in a mk4 before. alldata shows vag tools for this but basically looks like a slide hammer for removal and something to press/drive the new one in. their proceedure though left the axle hanging on the car by the rear suspension. 
last week i installed koni srt's with neuspeed sport springs and hotchkis front and rear sway bars. i had already replaced the lca bushings using the r32/tt solid rears. car handles and rides like a completely different vehicle. next i am doing tubular lcas, caster plates, bronze subframe bushings, and powerflex ps rack bushing! all courtesy of USRT!


----------



## The Kilted Yaksman (Oct 31, 2000)

MkIVs should never get poly in the rear torsion beam. Poly doesn't allow the rear beam to move properly. There used to be a thread here with a nice animation, I think done by Peter Pyce, that showed exactly why not.


----------



## rommeldawg (May 25, 2009)

here it is... well this is a post using that thread but it links it too.... http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2118568#post22505348 it will be interesting to see how these hold up. i like the idea of the bearings now that i ahve read that thread. i guess i'll be trying those next.


----------



## stephen9666 (Nov 14, 2009)

*DIY tool for rear axle bushings*

I’m in the process of replacing the rear axle bushings on my girlfriend’s 2000 Beetle. I thought I’d show the tool I used to press in the in the bushings. It appears it’s similar to some that other members have cobbled together. 


Here’s what you’ll need to build the tool: 
- 4 blocks of 2x4. Mine are about 4-5” long. 
- 1-3/4” hole saw. NOTE - this was the size I needed for Meyle bushings. If you use a different bushing, you may need a different size hole saw. 
- ⅜” threaded rod. My local hardware store had foot long pieces. 
- Bolts and washers for the threaded rod 
- Wrenches to turn the bolts 









To make the tool: 
-Drill a ⅜” hole into two of the blocks 
-Drill a hole in the other two blocks with the hole saw. My pieces of 2x4 were too thick for the saw to go all the way through. So, I drilled a small pilot hole then used the hole saw from each side to make it all the way through the block. 

You’ll see that the central support of the bushing sticks out farther than the body on each side of the bushing. The holes allow the block to push on the body of the bushing. 









Here’s how it will go together. The outside will be a solid block. 









I pulled my rear axle because I couldn’t get the bushings in. If I had built this tool first, I probably wouldn’t have had to pull the axle. You could use thinner wood pieces, to make the tool smaller. That may help use this tool when the axle is still on the car. 

Position the bushing and tool on the axle. You’ll need a solid block on the side pulling against the axle. The part pulling against the bushing will have a solid block and a hole block. Start tightening the bolt. I put the bushing in the freezer overnight and used lithium grease. The Meyle bushings aren’t very good and are out of round. I used a file to grind a beveled edge on the end of the bushing to help it go in. It might take several tries to get the bushing started without it popping out. 









After a while, you won’t be able to press the bushing in anymore. That’s because the bushing support has gone far enough that the central support is now bumping against the solid block on the other side. 









You can see the bushing has moved enough that the end is now even with the other side of the housing. 









Add a block with a hole to that side. Try to position it so that the end of the bushing will go into the hole in the block. 









Keep tightening the bolt. If you have it positioned properly, the end of the bushing will go into the hole. You can then tighten the bolt until the bushing is pressed in all the way. 









*Additional notes:* 
-I’m not very happy with the Meyle bushings. These are part number 1J0501541C. I bought mine at NAPA, but you can get them at most of the online parts dealers. These don’t seem very heavy duty. The housing is plastic and mine were significantly out of round. If you looked at them from the end, they were an oval, not round. Other members have bought the Genuine VW part, which has been updated and is beefier. If I had to do it over again, I would have bought the VW part. It’s more expensive, but appears sturdier.


----------



## luftandh2o (Sep 27, 2007)

*Thanks everyone!*

Even my Master VW Tech, and his Master VW Tech friend, had issues with these, and said this thread helped alot. Shared information is key to owning these vehicles. Thanks again.


----------



## volks25 (Dec 14, 2001)

:thumbup: like that 2x4 idea


----------



## 355 (Jun 10, 2011)

volks25 said:


> :thumbup: like that 2x4 idea


Plywood is stronger but wood is the way to go and is cheap. If you make a mistake, you dont lose much but time.


----------



## vmax84 (Mar 10, 2012)

I am needing to get this job done as well on my 2001 TDI. Has 260,000 miles on it, runs like a top, but the rear end clunks on it. 

Anyway, I am a bit of a drive from the VW dealer....would these bushings work?:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1534362

Think they are about 13 or 14 bucks apiece. Thanks.

vmax84


----------



## tedzap (Sep 24, 2010)

*bushings*

Do you know who the manufacturer of those bushings are? The ones from IDPARTS are Boge, VW's OEM supplier, or Febi Bilstein.

The idparts items are about $25, and I would hate to go to the trouble of installing a lesser quality part.


----------



## vmax84 (Mar 10, 2012)

tedzap said:


> Do you know who the manufacturer of those bushings are? The ones from IDPARTS are Boge, VW's OEM supplier, or Febi Bilstein.
> 
> The idparts items are about $25, and I would hate to go to the trouble of installing a lesser quality part.


Only name I see is Dorman.

vmax84


----------



## vmax84 (Mar 10, 2012)

here's a pic of teh' Jetta.......things are built like tanks compared to my Corollas.



vmax84


----------



## stephen9666 (Nov 14, 2009)

vmax84 said:


> I am needing to get this job done as well on my 2001 TDI. Has 260,000 miles on it, runs like a top, but the rear end clunks on it.
> 
> Anyway, I am a bit of a drive from the VW dealer....would these bushings work?:
> 
> ...


I wouldn't buy them without being able to see them first. Also, my local auto pars stores could also get the Dormanpart. The picture makes them look like the Meyle bushings I got, which seem pretty flimsy. If I had it over again, I'd definitely only go with the most recent VW part. This job is too difficult to do with a lower-quality part.


----------



## rommeldawg (May 25, 2009)

worldpac listed febi and lemforder so i ordered lemforder, they were higher priced and usually their parts are of a higher quaility. anyway they were also now plastic composite. looking at ecstuning's site the picture of the oem vw part also looks the same. i will order a pair from vw on monday to see what shows up and post back.


----------



## vmax84 (Mar 10, 2012)

stephen9666 said:


> I wouldn't buy them without being able to see them first. Also, my local auto pars stores could also get the Dormanpart. The picture makes them look like the Meyle bushings I got, which seem pretty flimsy. If I had it over again, I'd definitely only go with the most recent VW part. This job is too difficult to do with a lower-quality part.




Yep, I have to agree with you......this looks like a fairly good pain in the a$$ job, and to mess around with junk bushings is just stupid. But knowing me, I have to ask. 

Thanks for the reply.

vmax84


----------



## vmax84 (Mar 10, 2012)

I do tend to keep things for a long, long time. I bought this 1989 4Runner with a bad engine, and at times thought about "skimping" on the engine rebuild, but in the end, I ended up throwing the big money at it to do it right. Runs like a champ now, and I still have yet to drive it in a Michigan winter.....its never been in the salt. Drove it all the way back from Texas with a junk engine. 4 quarts of STP motor honey ran thru it, and i got it home. 



vmax84


----------



## dan.condie (Mar 22, 2012)

*Great Information !*

This sure helped out this VW guy , Many Thanks !


----------



## mikev1 (Mar 23, 2011)

Regarding the rust pics at the end of page 5. Mine are not nearly that rusty. But is it possible that these can rust the point of cracking or is it usually just surface rust? Also is it common that the clip holding the e-brake rubs on that metal sleeve and makes a slight groove in it? I am referring to the picture on page 6 with the red bushings... looks like it made a groove in it from rubbing


----------



## wakarimasen (Jun 5, 2007)

Started this task this weekend. I had to remove the axle beam by removing the two brackets because one side was so siezed up. I'll have to take it in for alignment anyhow, so not too worried that I unmoutned those brackets. 

Long story short, I had to cut through one of the bolts. :banghead: 

Anyone know where I can get a replacement pivot bolt that go through the bushing? The local parts shops can't figure it out or don't have a listing for it :what:. Before I call the dealership, has anyone used and have specs for a different sized bolt that is close enough? The stock one has a thicker diameter near the flange? Is it that critical that I use a replacement identical to the factory one?


----------



## 355 (Jun 10, 2011)

Get the right bolt. The dealer cant be that expensive.


----------



## zak (Aug 27, 2004)

wakarimasen said:


> Started this task this weekend. I had to remove the axle beam by removing the two brackets because one side was so siezed up. I'll have to take it in for alignment anyhow, so not too worried that I unmoutned those brackets.
> 
> Long story short, I had to cut through one of the bolts. :banghead:
> 
> Anyone know where I can get a replacement pivot bolt that go through the bushing? The local parts shops can't figure it out or don't have a listing for it :what:. Before I call the dealership, has anyone used and have specs for a different sized bolt that is close enough? The stock one has a thicker diameter near the flange? Is it that critical that I use a replacement identical to the factory one?


 They are one-time use bolts anyway. Dealer. Cheap enough. 

I had to cut one to get the beam out. If you remove the bracket, you can disturb the rear wheel alignment.


----------



## karimJetta (Mar 16, 2012)

*Done!*

Thanks for the write up! I did it with the axle on the car, just removed axle bolts and raised the car on jacks. Drilled a couple of holes in rubber - put screw driver in center of bushing and hammered out. Sawzall a couple of slits, but did not cut all the way to axle - hammered and chisled out the metal. My golf has 106k and the bushings were beat! I went with energy polys (yes I read all the negative responses, but i don't plan on keeping this car forever). They slide right in! Worse-case I will put OEM's on if I don't like the poly's. Car handels fine, but most importantly.... No more clunk noises in the rear end!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

I'm about to tackle this project and went ahead and returned the cheap bushings made in china from and bought the oem ones from the dealer for 32 a piece at 1stvwparts or w/e, monday I find out shipping, also got swaybar bushings while I was at it, ~160k bushings are starting to go so might as well do em all. 

Anyways....the dealer happened to have 2 of these laying around and 2 bolts nuts also. The BOLTS/NUTS were 6.50 a piece or some crap.....but w/e. I've had experience breaking off bolts when working on my car from all the rust so I ALWAYS buy the bolts for the job now, better to be safe than sorry, esp over a weekend when they are closed. 

I think I'm going to make that 2x4 tool and hope it fits under there. If I do drop the axle I want to sandblast it and use that (primer/paint 2-in-one stuff from rustoleum to save some time). If I dont have to drop it would spraying that paint on it with it still on be a bad idea? I dont care about overspray really.....black looks better than rust. Dust shield should protect the new brakes I just put on.


----------



## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

does someone want to take a picture or explain to me how to use the "washer system" please. It seems it would take up a LOT less room to use while the axle is still on the car than the 2x4 method.



v/r


----------



## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

10sec-rabbit said:


> i did this job today took me about 2.5 hours
> on jack stands i took out the axle took a 1/2 hours
> cut the rear bushing out with a sawzall, was very easy 15 min
> I designing a tool based on that wheeling bearing installer i have.
> ...


this is what im looking to understand please  v/r


----------



## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

or can someone pm me please or post the specs for both of these, tools. 

3301 

3416 

once i have the specs i can make it on CAD for fun


----------



## darkd (Mar 11, 2004)

Dude.. if I ever see you in person i'd give you a kiss on the lips. Thank you for confirming this. i too have the hydrolic bonded and i was about to put a nail in the wall.. paint a red circle and run into it when i found out I'm supposed to replace the entire beam. If i come up with alternative steps, I'll post pictures and write up. 
I'm in the middle of doing this too.


----------



## icarusart (Mar 25, 2012)

*Trailing axle bushing*

I just replaced the rear bonded rubber axle bushings, MK4. Definitely not recommended for the weak and/or feeble minded DIY'er.  It's a simple process, take the old out an put in the new ones, but a few steps require some elbow grease. Some tips to help you along: 

1) Freezing the new bushing the night before will not make installation a whole lot easier. Liquid nitrogen not recommended either. 

2) Taking out the axle will make life easier for you, and it's not that much more additional work. 

3) Don't even bother pressing the old, rusted, and grimy bushings out. After years of weathering and pressure these bushings are basically rusted to the trailing arm. Cut out the sleeve with a saw and/or chisel. Careful not to cut into axle. 

It took me a solid five hours from start to finish. In addition to installing the bushings, I also replaced the brake lines, and the caliper seals.


----------



## a81sturmer (Jan 3, 2011)

I'm installing the bushing today. Is anybody intimately familiar with the various rear suspension bushing configurations and how they are supposed to be oriented in the axle. I have the latest VW bushings for the sport suspension ('02 Jetta VR6). Does the thick part of the outer lip go down, along with the alignment tabs, both sides? 

The Bentley illustration leave a little too much to the imagination. 

Thanks.


----------



## a81sturmer (Jan 3, 2011)

Adding to the confusion factor was that the original bushings (02 VR6 Jetta) were installed with the tab down on one side and the tab up on the other side, still resulting in symmettrical installation right and left side (gap in original bushing facing same direction both sides).


----------



## a81sturmer (Jan 3, 2011)

Installed bushings with tab down - in line with location shown in Bentley illustrations, both sides. Thick portion if rubber lip is mostly down, oriented same on both sides. 

Used pusher based on 3" muffler pipe. Pipe slipped perfectly over the rubber lip to contact the narrow plastic hat/ridge. Also used hose clamp to help keep pipe on the hat/ridge. On the receiving end used two wood blocks, one with 3/4 hole to clear bushing. Passed allthread through middle of pusher. First bushing went ok. 2nd one did not want to stay lined up Guess I got overconfident after first one went easy. Slowed down and took my time and second then went ok.


----------



## a81sturmer (Jan 3, 2011)

Car is rolling again. No alignment yet but it's clear the axle beam was the major alignment problem cause. Now I know it was bent. Steering wheel is almost straight again while rolling straight. The visual rear toe out on the left and and unequal neg camber is corrected. And the car drives right - squirreliness is gone. Front wheel is still a little off, probably due to front end alignment. Will have alignment checked soon.


----------



## '03VR6 (May 16, 2012)

*ID Rear Axle Bushings? Are my bushings bad?*

2 questions:

1) What is a tell tale sign that you need new rear axle bushings? Noise or movement? My car makes a hollow clunk over bumps most noticeable at slower speeds. I've inspected the bushing with a pry bar and there is some movement, maybe 3/8-1/2 inch. Can't remember if it was up and down or lateral.

2) Were there two different bushing styles for MKIV's. I'm not sure..... From what I gathered here below is the newer style. Correct me if I'm wrong. The older style is the pic below that? My '03 has the ones in the top pic. Would those be original?

Thanks, hoping to figure out IF I need to replace my bushings. 

If so, I'll definitely be using my ball joint press. Used that tool to install my LCA bushings and axle bushing on my F350. I rented it from Advanced Auto for $100 and haven't returned it and prob won't. Very handy tool!


----------



## Peterbuilt (Jul 18, 2012)

I'll be starting this job on my 2003 GLI VR6 tomorrow.. 

Hope everything goes smooth..


----------



## KG18t (Aug 9, 2006)

'03VR6 said:


> I rented it from Advanced Auto for $100 and haven't returned it and prob won't.



Real nice.


----------



## '03VR6 (May 16, 2012)

KG18t said:


> Real nice.


 The way their tool rental works is you buy the tool, use it, and get your money back when you return it. You don't have to return the tool if you want to keep it. That's why the rental price is the FULL price of the tool. And since it's such a handy tool I'm keeping it. 
* 
Back to the topic.*....Peterbuilt, How did you determine your car needs new bushings? Did you get in there with a pry bar or something? I'm still wondering if mine are bad. It drives pretty well but the hollow clunk drive me nuts sometimes.


----------



## silverglivr6 (Dec 10, 2012)

Sorry to bump this thread, but I thought I'd share my method of changing the axle bushings.

Here's how I did it:









I used a strut spring compressor set(rented from Autozone). Lay down the axle on its side, positioned the spring compressors on both sides, stood the axle back up, and tightened each side a little bit at a time with a long-handled 1/2" ratchet - not with the impact gun in the picture.  Once the spring compressors started rubbing on the inner diameter of the bushing, I took them out and used the orange dead blow hammer you see in the picture to drive the bushing all the way in. Was easy as cake. I didn't even need to freeze the bushings.

Hope this can help someone struggling with getting these buggers in.


----------



## volks25 (Dec 14, 2001)

Brilliant !


----------



## quiksilver18T (Jul 29, 2002)

My car has 245,000km on it, and a Neuspeed RSB. 

Been working on this since Saturday on and off for the past few days. Finally got over the hump. 

The passenger side one is installed. I was able to do this side without removing the brake line, just undo the clips, and straighten out the solid brake line that goes down the trailing arm to give a little more wiggle room, and you can hopefully wedge the axle down enough to get at it. I initially was going to take the brake hose off, but when I was turning the flare nut, the solid line was turning with it, causing a kink. I have a new RR brakehose to put on when I get the bushings installed. 

I am going to attempt the driverside tonight, hopefully there is enough room to do it with the axle in. 

Be careful when cutting the relief slit in the bushing sleeve. I was a little overzealous with the sawsall, and cut into the axle a wee bit. 

I'm working on a midrise lift, (Maxjax) which definitely helps. If this is your only mode of transportation to work/school etc. definitely think about paying someone to do this. I make a puller from some all thread rod, coupler, washers and plywood. I'll post a pic of it. I've put about 4-5hrs into it over the past 3 days, trying to figure stuff out. I like working on cars, so that's why I do it. If it was something that I had a deadline to get done, than it would be a nightmare on your own. 

Peter


----------



## noelskii (May 19, 2012)

just did this today using this DIY thread. 

I clamped down the tip of the new bushing extra tight and heated it up using a tiki torch (it was already conveniently lit near me, for mosquitoes). Worked like a charm just to get it in the axle enough so I can clamp it. 









And then used two C-clamps to get all the way in.


















This whole job took me from 2:30pm - 9:30pm to finish. I did it all by myself using 2 jack stands and a jack. if I had to do it again, I'd definitely get extra help, it definitely would've saved A LOT of time...

oh, and I didn't remove the beam completely, just unscrewed the brake line..didn't wanna risk breaking that.


----------



## xXx_69_Sexy_Man_69_xXx (Sep 6, 2013)

I'm just starting this and already have two problems :banghead:

1 - What's the best way to unclip the brake line in the photo? It's already slightly damaged so I'm afraid to play with it too much

2 - I unbolted the end of the nut on the axle bushing, but as I unscrew the main bolt, its only spreading the flanges apart. How do you get that bolt out of there? 

Photo: http://imgur.com/2ZAYzbL


----------



## xXx_69_Sexy_Man_69_xXx (Sep 6, 2013)

Update: got the ebrake line off, but the bolt seems to be fused with the inside of the bushing! Did anyone have this problem?

I removed the nut that's out of sight, but its extremely difficult to turn the main bolt, and no amount of rotations help it come out.


----------



## quiksilver18T (Jul 29, 2002)

69,

Maybe cut the bolt with a sawzall so you can lower the axle? 

Doesn't sound like fun, but that should work. 

Or do you ha email an impact Wrench? 

Peter 

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## xXx_69_Sexy_Man_69_xXx (Sep 6, 2013)

Might have to do that, I just would need to find a new bolt haha


----------



## jsc3582 (Oct 3, 2013)

*You think my rear axle beam is bent?*

I hit a football size rock in the road at about 60mph. It was bad enough that it destroyed both front and rear passenger side tires and wheels. Since then my tires wear badly and my car pulls to the right even after having it aligned 3 times by 3 different shops. I think it could have bent the rear axle beam. This is a 2000 Jetta that is still in great shape otherwise. Any input as to what might be the problem?


----------



## StoicJumper (Aug 7, 2013)

Does anyone know the torque specs for the body bracket that the bushings live in (4 bolts hold it on to the frame, had to drop it so I didn't stress any brake lines, kept the axle on). Also the torque specs for the bushings bolt/nut while full weight is on them. Thanks in advance.

Thanks OP for the write up!


----------



## quiksilver18T (Jul 29, 2002)

I'll look in the Bentley 's tomorrow. 

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## quiksilver18T (Jul 29, 2002)

quiksilver18T said:


> I'll look in the Bentley 's tomorrow.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2


55ft lbs. Says always replace

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 355 (Jun 10, 2011)

jsc3582 said:


> I hit a football size rock in the road at about 60mph. It was bad enough that it destroyed both front and rear passenger side tires and wheels. Since then my tires wear badly and my car pulls to the right even after having it aligned 3 times by 3 different shops. I think it could have bent the rear axle beam. This is a 2000 Jetta that is still in great shape otherwise. Any input as to what might be the problem?


Your axle is bent. Replace it.


----------



## StoicJumper (Aug 7, 2013)

quiksilver18T said:


> 55ft lbs. Says always replace
> 
> Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk 2


Sorry, I forgot to thank you for the torque specs! I always replace the one time use bolts, thanks for the heads up though:thumbup:

To everyone, like others have posted, get the upgraded Genuine VW bushings. I saw a FEQ bushings and from the naked eye they look ovalish. The genuine are pretty true in circumference, micrometers show only a few 1/1000s off and look/feel more durable. 

I have this rear axle beam bushing tool I bought for the job, it's made for the MK4s bushings. Bushings went in straight as I orientated them accordingly on my axle. Each side slide in, lightly greased, in about 3 minutes each. If anyone is interested in making the job a bit easier the tool is available for loan, I'm willing to ship (you pay shipping both ways) and I'll refund you the cost of the tool when returned. I'm in north New Jersey and NE Pennsylvania, tool available locally too. PM me if interested.

<a href="http://s928.photobucket.com/user/ShawnMK4/media/IMG_2748_zps85203646.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad128/ShawnMK4/IMG_2748_zps85203646.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_2748_zps85203646.jpg"/></a>


----------



## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

StoicJumper said:


> Sorry, I forgot to thank you for the torque specs! I always replace the one time use bolts, thanks for the heads up though:thumbup:
> 
> To everyone, like others have posted, get the upgraded Genuine VW bushings. I saw a FEQ bushings and from the naked eye they look ovalish. The genuine are pretty true in circumference, micrometers show only a few 1/1000s off and look/feel more durable.
> 
> ...


I have that tool on watch list on eBay. 
I made a custom tool long time ago that worked fine but that's cheap enough anyway to buy.


----------



## dubrider14 (Sep 10, 2012)

Don't mean to spam an old thread, but I just read through all this and am going to replace the bushings on my GTI's rear beam and thought I'd share some links I found helpful.

KTC tools makes the oem style tool you need and it can be found here: 

Amazon


KTC Tools

ECS stocks the standard rubber bushings, but Kerma TDI has the Seat Cupra R bushings available here. 

I'm not sure if anyone else has any feedback on these vs. the stock bushings, but they look a little more beefy and I think I'm going to try them out. Thanks to everybody for all the great info on how to get this done!


----------



## rommeldawg (May 25, 2009)

those replacements look good...go for it... the old ones in your car will be metal sleeved oil filled so you will need to cut them through and then roll the sleeve in on itself and drive them out. at the shop this is done using air tools of course. those cupra r replacements look like they are made of the plastic composite (like the normal replacements) they go in easy enough once you get them started strait. put some pics up or your work


----------



## evanj (Jun 1, 2014)

Who has a good source for OEM bushings?
ECS? Dealer wanted 50$/each plus 8 hours of labor!!!
Has anyone used anything other than OEM and been satisfied? Seems the meyles are not as good.

EDIT: You can buy the OEM direct from VW for $36/each.
http://www.volkswagenpartsamerica.c...icleid=90462&diagram=9277645&diagramCallOut=3

EDIT 2: Does anyone have the part number for the bolt that goes through the bushing?


----------



## rommeldawg (May 25, 2009)

bolt is N10409903 and nut is N10106402 ... ecs has all this too and sells meyle and viaco for under 20 bucks each


----------



## [email protected] (Jun 20, 2014)

evanj said:


> Has anyone used anything other than OEM and been satisfied?


I may be a bit partial, but if you're looking for a bit of increased performance without an increase in NVH, plus a lifetime warranty, then the Powerflex replacement bushings might be worth looking into:

http://powerflexusa.com/volkswagenbora1997-2006rearbeammountingBushing-pfr85-415.aspx


----------



## 20AE3600 (Jan 13, 2004)

Good reading here. Many innovative solutions for installing the bushings. I just did a whole rear axle rebuild on a 2001 TDI Jetta w/ 255,000 miles where everything that could be removed from the axle was replaced including the hard brake lines. The pictures explain why. The only thing I didn't have to replace were the brake parts as they had recently been replaced by the P.O. It was overdue. It is good for another 200,000+ hopefully. I must say having confidence that I had the tab orientation correct was the most concerning item, as once the bushing is in....no do overs. Tab down pointed at the joint where the bushing housing and the trailing arm portion of the beam connect. Bushings install from inside, not Outside as I saw someone had posted. I contacted my local independent VW shop for advice also for tips since this was my first time doing the bushings.

oh yeah, almost forgot. I bought most everything from IDParts. Great people over there with good service, good parts, good prices and great shipping rates.

My tips..


If you are unhooking the brake lines...take the axle out...it is not that hard to do.
Unhook the flex brake line at the axle hard line so that if you do ruin the line you are only replacing a short simple to do line as opposed to the line running to the front of the car.
Clean out the inner housing for the bushing really good before reinstalling. (mine had much rust that need some good hammering and filing and sanding to remove. That old bushing and the housing grew to like each other.)
Use plain old dish soap to lube for the reinstall. Grease or oil could damage the new rubber parts and the soap dries out with time.
Do NOT freeze the bushings if they do not have a metal outer sleeve. Freezing the plastic ones makes them brittle and more prone to crack, and the plastic composite does not contract like steel when cooled.
using the proper tool for the install. It took me 5 mins per side to install the new bushings once I had everything prepped


----------



## evanj (Jun 1, 2014)

Wheres that tool from?


----------



## 20AE3600 (Jan 13, 2004)

evanj said:


> Wheres that tool from?



A professional VW mechanic made it himself. I do not own it and am not able to offer it for use, as it is not mine. Sorry about that. It pays to be friends with good mechanics. You can buy a similar tool for around $100 on amazon.


----------



## dubrider14 (Sep 10, 2012)

I got both sides out and installed Sunday, though I didn't get a chance to completely reinstall everything (hoping to finish up this weekend). I found it was easiest to push the rubber inner bushing out by putting a 1/2" deep socket between the press tool (on the thrust bearing side) -- it pushed the thing right out  Then the only thing left was the cutting out the metal casing... That wasn't as fun -- you definitely have to be careful with your hacksaw. I nicked the edge of one of the sides of the beam a bit on my first go. I'm tempted to spot weld it, and sand it down, but that might be a little excessive. 1 additional thing I read in the bentley was that you need to reposition the spindle to where it is when the car is on the ground before tightening the bushing retaining bolt to reduce pretwist on the bushing. This also means you need to measure the center of the wheel to the middle of the fender before taking the wheel off. It helps to use extra jack to raise the spindle.





















Definitely a bit of fussing around -- but not the worst thing in the world -- just have to be patient.


----------



## evanj (Jun 1, 2014)

I just finished this job, I left the axle on the car, but had to make a surgical slit in the brake line mount with my dremel, spread it open 1/4 inch so I could get the beam to drop without taking the line with it.

I had to purchase the VW tool for 70$ on ebay, I tried every method NOTHING would work. The tool worked excellent, has a cut in the lip to fit around the axle, and the pressing bolt has this genius bearing attached to it so the bolt is not pressing directly on the plate. It was pressed in in 4 minutes and perfectly aligned. 

I would not do this without that tool, which I will never use again, but I saved well over 1000$ compared to what the dealer wanted to do this job, which was to replace the whole axle.


----------



## mugen85r (May 11, 2003)

StoicJumper said:


> Sorry, I forgot to thank you for the torque specs! I always replace the one time use bolts, thanks for the heads up though:thumbup:
> 
> To everyone, like others have posted, get the upgraded Genuine VW bushings. I saw a FEQ bushings and from the naked eye they look ovalish. The genuine are pretty true in circumference, micrometers show only a few 1/1000s off and look/feel more durable.
> 
> ...



Mind sharing a link to that tool?


----------



## rommeldawg (May 25, 2009)

i have a hub tamer kit i got from snap-on and just used a piece of threaded rod. it was easy enough

and to [email protected], i have been running the powerflex in my 03 for over two years. many suspension upgrades to the car also but these bushings have held up fine.


----------



## [email protected] (Jun 20, 2014)

rommeldawg said:


> and to [email protected], i have been running the powerflex in my 03 for over two years. many suspension upgrades to the car also but these bushings have held up fine.


Great to hear, @rommeldawg! No doubt they should continue to hold up perfectly well. Thanks for the feedback! :thumbup:


----------



## evanj (Jun 1, 2014)

mugen85r said:


> Mind sharing a link to that tool?



It arrived in 3 business days from California to NY. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251592820342?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


----------



## Roundhouse (Sep 25, 2001)

looks like I may have to do this soon as the 2000 beetle has a clunk in the back,

although one of the upper shock mounts has some movement in it, so Im gonna swap what first.

some of the posts in this thread mention a swaybar.

our Beetle does not have a swaybar in the back that I can see.

was that optional? or just on the Jettas?


----------



## Powder Hound (Oct 20, 2003)

The roll bar you saw in the original photos of this thread is an aftermarket add-on item.

Cheers!

PH


----------



## bezier_kid (Sep 18, 2014)

I love this thread... I just bought a 1 owner, 2003. I noticed a thump over bumps after I bought it. I thought I needed to replace the suspension then I noticed ALL the bushings were really bad. I love the way the car handles (coming from a 2006 dodge magnum RT, AWD) and I can't wait to feel it with fresh bushings. I'm going to try to install the bushings with the axle in the car. To press the bushings in I bought this CLEEEEEEEEEK THEESE because I can use it for a bunch of other things. Thanks again. Stoked to be here and I'll let you know how it goes.


----------



## GLIck (Jul 24, 2005)

So, I have a question. I screwed up my install. Beleaguered by trips to the hardware store, constantly updating my method of pressing in the bushing, I got to the point of grabbing the nearest thing to me when I got stuck half way through. 

The problem is that I used the old bushing to pull the new one in the rest of the way. Because it has an uneven rubber ring around the lip, I ended up pulling the new bushing in slightly askew. There is a 1mm gap on one side and a 4mm gap on the opposite side. 

But, is the reason there needs to be a gap at all solely for the reason of fitting the VW press tool? If I'm not using that, can I just bump the bushing all the way in, or would that still present a problem?

I can't even fathom how to press the bushing out. I had to cut the old ones out just like everyone else seems to be doing. I suppose I could start over, but it would be so much nicer if I didn't have to. Apparently, rape is on the minds of the shops around me because the first place I asked said it would be $80-$160 to put the bushings in for me.


----------



## MXTHOR3 (Jan 10, 2003)

bezier_kid said:


> I love this thread... I just bought a 1 owner, 2003. I noticed a thump over bumps after I bought it. I thought I needed to replace the suspension then I noticed ALL the bushings were really bad. I love the way the car handles (coming from a 2006 dodge magnum RT, AWD) and I can't wait to feel it with fresh bushings. I'm going to try to install the bushings with the axle in the car. To press the bushings in I bought this CLEEEEEEEEEK THEESE because I can use it for a bunch of other things. Thanks again. Stoked to be here and I'll let you know how it goes.


Easiest way to do it, absolutely no need to remove the axle from the car. I did both the rear bushings in my wagon on the weekend in under an hour. Use the proper tool for installation and make sure you align the new bushing properly.


----------



## bezier_kid (Sep 18, 2014)

Well I got it done. I ended up taking the axle out. It was easier for me because I'm old and fat. The workbench was a better option than the ground. It went about as described by everyone else except the plastic bushings looked like they were gong to pop at one point. It took a while but I also did 2 ball joints and 1 lower control arm too. I think about 8-10 hours. Not only am I old and fat ... I guess I'm kind of slow too. Thanks again everyone! The harbor freight bearing tool worked really well with a 3/8 threaded rod.


----------



## bezier_kid (Sep 18, 2014)

GLIck said:


> So, I have a question. I screwed up my install. Beleaguered by trips to the hardware store, constantly updating my method of pressing in the bushing, I got to the point of grabbing the nearest thing to me when I got stuck half way through.
> 
> The problem is that I used the old bushing to pull the new one in the rest of the way. Because it has an uneven rubber ring around the lip, I ended up pulling the new bushing in slightly askew. There is a 1mm gap on one side and a 4mm gap on the opposite side.
> 
> ...


Maybe a big a$$ c clamp on the 4mm side?


----------



## GLIck (Jul 24, 2005)

bezier_kid said:


> Maybe a big a$$ c clamp on the 4mm side?


Well, although a mallet (or hammer) did jack for me in terms of getting the bushing in, it was amazingly effective at finessing the gap so that it was even all around. I also found that the gap is needed, if for no other reason, in order to get the axle back up into the brackets.


----------



## reildawg (Jan 10, 2015)

Did you change the Wheel bearings too or reuse your old ones?


----------



## MXTHOR3 (Jan 10, 2003)

Wheel bearings and rear axle bushings really don't have much to do with each other.


----------



## jackindabox726 (Jul 31, 2014)

I hear a really loud metal to metal contact in the back every time i go over a bump in my mk4 jetta. is this the repair i need? I looked at my exhaust which also rattles every time i hit a bump and I have confirmed that the rubber hanger pieces needed replacing. Is the rubber bushing described in this post responsible for the loud metal to metal contact that occurs in the back every time i hit a bump?


----------



## Elcroato (May 21, 2002)

My Octavia has about -2 degrees of camber on the right side and is visually lower than the left side too. This is probably a bent axle right? Or could it be a symptom of a bad bushing? The springs are good to my knowledge.


----------



## anks12 (Sep 9, 2014)

I have a 20th with a suspension noise that I have traced to the rear beam bushing, so I will be taking on this job soon. It is my understanding that the 20th has a different bushing than the regular GTI. Will this bushing be a replacement for the 20AE, or do I need to look for something else? Thanks for the help!


----------



## MXTHOR3 (Jan 10, 2003)

I don't think the 20th has special rear axle bushings.... I also wouldn't be paying $46 a piece for them.


----------



## jtowers (Dec 10, 2015)

*How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV*

Hello guys,
I was looking forward to do this on my own, because, like many of you in this forum, I really like working on my car. But I just can't find the time to do it and since live in Mex, it is much cheaper to take my car to a suspension shop and have it done for $1,600 mexican pesos, bushings included (about $100 dollars).

Thank you Rabbitskin for this DIY and all others for sharing their experiences.

Regards


----------



## gutzb4ll (Jun 1, 2007)

I know this is an old post but i wanted to correct some misinformation.

First of all, nylon contracts WAY more than steel when cooled: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/linear-expansion-coefficients-d_95.html 
I also spent a year working in the engineering and prototype lab of a tier two supplier of engine mounts and bushings. I have spent more time than i care to admit pushing bushings of all shapes, sizes and materials into and out of text fixtures. Cooling nylon can help but it does also make it more delicate.

The bushing you have pictured as having been removed from the axle is a hydro bushing. It is VERY important that the bushing be clocked correctly in the axle. I'm not saying you did it wrong, just that you never mentioned this.



20AE3600 said:


> Good reading here. Many innovative solutions for installing the bushings. I just did a whole rear axle rebuild on a 2001 TDI Jetta w/ 255,000 miles where everything that could be removed from the axle was replaced including the hard brake lines. The pictures explain why. The only thing I didn't have to replace were the brake parts as they had recently been replaced by the P.O. It was overdue. It is good for another 200,000+ hopefully. I must say having confidence that I had the tab orientation correct was the most concerning item, as once the bushing is in....no do overs. Tab down pointed at the joint where the bushing housing and the trailing arm portion of the beam connect. Bushings install from inside, not Outside as I saw someone had posted. I contacted my local independent VW shop for advice also for tips since this was my first time doing the bushings.
> 
> oh yeah, almost forgot. I bought most everything from IDParts. Great people over there with good service, good parts, good prices and great shipping rates.
> 
> ...


----------



## crispernaki (Jan 23, 2016)

*Orientation?*

OMG, I have read though this thread a few times (okay, I actually skimmed it all at least once) and I still can not get a good understanding of which way the tabs on the bearings are supposed to be oriented. Of course, I totally forgot to note the orientation before removing the darn things!

I guess I should ask first... are there left and right versions of the bearings? I ordered two bearings that were 6R0501541A replacements.

I've studied the diagrams provided in the manuals and in this thread, and I know which way the bearings go in. But which side is the EDGE OF THE TRAILING ARM? Does the arrow in the diagram point to the seam on the top, or bottom, of the axle?


----------



## MXTHOR3 (Jan 10, 2003)




----------



## crispernaki (Jan 23, 2016)

Thanks, MXTHOR3, but that diagram simply isn't cutting it for me. I'm probably just missing the very obvious, but I can't help it.

Basically, is the arrow pointing to the weld seam on the top of the axle or the bottom of the axle? Is that the right or left side of the axle?

Asked another way:

When the axle is installed and the car's weight is being supported, should the gaps in the bushing be making an equal sign (=) or a roman numeral two (II)?

cb

2001 TDI Beetle


----------



## MXTHOR3 (Jan 10, 2003)

That's the bottom of the axle, and it's the same for both sides, it doesn't make a difference. For reference you should look at your old bushing that's still installed. That will clear up any confusion. First time I did this I was a bit hesitant as well, but it's not rocket science.


----------



## Elcroato (May 21, 2002)

First off, let me get this out of the way. The ID of the bushing housing is 69mm. I couldn't find that info anywhere and hopefully it's useful to someone because it could have saved me a lot of wasted time and money. I had decided to go with poly bushings and when ordering there were two sizes available. I searched on the Internet and found nothing so I ordered the larger size.
On to my story. I first drilled out the bearing portion of the stock bushings. I then used a chisel and hammer to break down the plastic sheath that had enclosed the bushing. Eventually the entire housing popped out. Both sides took an hour or so.
Now came the hard part, inserting 72.5mm OD poly bushings into a 69mm housing. I had no choice but to mill them down with a wire grinder, got them down to 70mm. I used a spring compressor with some washers and various attachments to press them in. This took about 4 hours. I reattached the axle to the car. The result is less than favorable. There are lots of grinding and popping sounds emanating from that area and it feels like there's binding. This was driving only about 18mph. That bushing was in there very tight. Needless to say, I'll be ordering a set of stock bushings to redo this job. I'm not going to risk going for the correctly sized poly bushing.


----------



## Elcroato (May 21, 2002)

I decided to go with the 034 rear aspherical bearings. I couldn't find out their diameter, but I risked it anyway. Lo and behold their OD is 69mm so I shouldn't have a problem installing them. The only question I have is which direction to install them in. I haven't been able to find out so I'll probably install them with the lip portion on the inside.


----------



## GolfCL Smooth (Jul 9, 2006)

Elcroato said:


> I decided to go with the 034 rear aspherical bearings. I couldn't find out their diameter, but I risked it anyway. Lo and behold their OD is 69mm so I shouldn't have a problem installing them. The only question I have is which direction to install them in. I haven't been able to find out so I'll probably install them with the lip portion on the inside.


I did the lip portion on the outside but I don't think it makes any difference at all.

I'd be curious to get your feedback on them in terms of NVH, I made so many changes to the car at once that it's hard to isolate the individual components' effect, but I can say that the rear is very well sorted. A little harsh over sharp bumps as expected, and potentially a little more road noise transmission as well, but overall worth the compromise in terms of handling.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## Elcroato (May 21, 2002)

I am satisfied with the bearings so far. I haven't been able to push the car as of yet -- as I'm still getting the suspension sorted. The added NVH is negligible though.


----------



## Funyellowbug (Jun 26, 2017)

Well, I too am about to install the dreaded bushings. Getting the old bushings out was not a big deal. I used my trusty drill and a smaller bit and proceeded to destroy the internal rubber part off the bushing. Once the metal plug was pretty loose and finished off with my hacksaw, it popped right out with a few good wacks. After it was out, I cut two lines through the inner sleeve with my hacksaw and both sides popped out.
Now, I am ready to put my new bushings but ran into a bit of a snag.
My new bushings do not have the alignment marks. No biggie. By looking at the diagram attached,







it seems like the alignment mark would be in the center of one of the two voids in the rubber surrounding the internal metal plug. 
No problem, but what void do I like up? By looking at the three pronged star pattern of the metal plug, I think I have it right but wanted to see if anyone has any comments on this.

THX in advance.


----------



## Ferfire9 (Sep 11, 2017)

Any tips to how to do the same on a A2 chassis? (MK2 vw) 
I already bought the Bushings, they look like this https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/3r8AAOSwTM5YvTIk/s-l300.jpg
I am thinking to buy a big threaded mechanism such as the Bgs 1514-M10, but then i still would need some press sleeves to do that, can anyone give me an idea to make it. I cant find any sleeves for sale, unless the ones that are 100$ expensive+ and i definitely wont be buying them. I have no steel plates at home sadly and i dont think wood would do the job.


----------



## Tirebiter (Sep 14, 2017)

Has anyone tried using a pair of double sealed ball bearings instead of a spherical bearing or poly or rubber bushing. Add spacers to keep them centralized along the pivot bolt, and centered inside the trailing arm housing ?

NVH might be dealt with by a rubber insulating pad where the bushing brackets mount to the chassis. Additionally, a set of rubber sleeves around each bolt and rubber washers under the 4 bolt heads on each bracket could possibly go a long way towards isolating NVH. If not completly eliminating it as well as the stock rubber bushings do.


----------



## Rickame (Dec 27, 2014)

*Confirm correct rear axle bushings for Mk4*

Got a 1999.5 GLS Golf, been slowly but surely working on stuff. Now I want to work on rear end clunk. Going to replace shock mounts that might do it, since its simple. Am thinking of also doing the rear axle bushings, but know they are a pain to do on the car, but may give it a go. Am I correct that the original bushings have a metal sleeve that may need to be cut and/or banged out, but the replacements are just rubber or poly with no metal sleeve, or do they have a metal or plastic sleeve? I have seen some online that appear to have a plastic or metal sleeve and some that don't. Which is correct? not obvious to me, so any help or other advice appreciated. 
The above thread says part is: 1J0501541C but a goole images search will show you my confusion. 
When asked my mechanic about clunk over potholes, he said 'don't run over pot holes'...he would take off rear end, but not a simple or cheap process..but I think I can do this 
Just need to have right part..can someone send a link or part #, and I will rent a bushing removal/press kit...a recommendation on that may help too. Thanks.


----------

