# 11 CEL Codes, I need some advice on what to do next...



## sengd001 (Dec 18, 2006)

*4 CEL Codes, I need some advice on what to do next...*

Update, soooo I FINALLY took her out for a test drive, after I bleed the brakes and every thing of course, then....
1. I noticed the car was driving/idling rough, 
2. my cel began to flash, 
3. the abs light was on, 
4. my battery light turned on, 
5. lacked power steering, (however my alternator was working when I checked, and serpentine belt intact), 
The only thing I can think of as of now would be when I pulled the wheel bearings out I may have damaged the hub sensors on the front passenger side, because I feel it hitting something, oh and the fumes are strong, like gas and smoke (of course I just refilled brake fluid, and it spilled onto engine, a lot of it), took her to the gas station and smoke was coming out of the grille put hand on intake manny, and was hot to the touch, not burning, but hot, temp gauge was at half way, but this was 4am in the morning, maybe a coolant line is disconnected because it poured everywhere, and also a vacuum line that is misconnected?
*4 NEW CEL CODES: (All seem to be related to the evap/emissions system)
P0102-MAF circuit low input
P0112-Intake air sensor 1 circuit low
P0301-cylinder 1 misfire
P0134-No signal from O2 Sensor* 








Also right now I'm only running water in my reservoir not coolant yet, and I see huge leak when I park it, another reason why I'm not using coolant yet
*UPDATE
Oh yeah, too much oil in car... Drained a quart and a half to be safe
-Cleaning out MAF later today...
-I think the power steering has to do with a lack of fluid, remember it spilling out during swap* 

_Modified by sengd001 at 6:38 AM 8-4-2009_


_Modified by sengd001 at 6:40 AM 8-4-2009_


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## vdubbugman53 (Nov 7, 2006)

*FV-QR*

you need to see if a VAG COM pulles any additional codes. you said you lost your tensioner....you could have totally ****ed the head if that let the timing belt slip on there


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## sengd001 (Dec 18, 2006)

I doubt the belt slipped, it was lose, like it kept moving over to the side, but I don't think it slipped, however about the head, I really hope its not the case... because the aeg is a non interference motor, and its hard as **** to bend a valve, but still possible...
On a maybe plus side.... found out my crank sensor was disconnected in the back, because a tab had broken loose, so that could possibly explain my timing issues, and why I got it running the first time, and haven't been able to since.
The only issue that is scaring me right now is that the compression test shows that the number 4 cylinder having only 75 psi, this was after I had the tensioner on broken... which could spell head gasket... I REALLY hope not, but I can't really say until I get my ignition to start again, and see how she runs with the crank sensor plugged in...
But I just have completely no idea why is the ignition not reading.... no starter even... and I doubt its bad, because I had it tested like 2 weeks ago, 3 times, this happened like over night, so iono, 
As for the vag com it pulls the same stuff as the obd2 does only difference is it gives it in VW language, but with the bentley you can figure it out, like 1850 and 1780 are specific VW codes I got off the obd2... while there maybe certain things that it might pull that the obd2 won't I doubt its a serious issue... 
But yeah that compression on the number 4 cylinder is scaring me right now... I just remember cranking the engine, and my lights and everything got dimmer, and it was slower and slower (I tried to get 8 revolutions for the compression test) barely made it, and it was 75 psi... it was the last one I tested as well... I'm scared and frustrated at the same time, believe me...


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## sengd001 (Dec 18, 2006)

GOT IT TO RUN!!! *** YEAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I was so *** scared my car was ***, but now that i got it to run and hold idle I'm so ***relieved!!
Only issue a lot of smoke from intake manny, possibly because i didnt seal gasket or bolt everything down yet, and theres coolant leakage i need to deal with, VW mechanic coming over tomorrow to look over everything and fine tune that sucker!! Thanks for everyone's help!!


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## sengd001 (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (sengd001)*

Smoke issue resolved, just sealed the gasket, filled with pink coolant, replaced some leaky hoses, need to seal thermostat and buy a new output speed sensor


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (sengd001)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sengd001* »_....because the aeg is a non interference motor, and its hard as **** to bend a valve, but still possible...


How do you know this? There is pretty much no difference between the mk3 head and the mk4 head and plenty of people have bents valves. Granted that's also variant upon the lift of the camshaft. 
At the piston is at TDC, part of the crown is flush with the top of the block and the valves pop out more than the.... 0.275" that the depth of the CC chamber is if I remember right at it's maximum opening. 

Good job on getting the car up and running again http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Reminds me I need to do a compression test on my motor to see where it stands.


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## sengd001 (Dec 18, 2006)

humm... im no mk3 expert, but iono if the heads are the same... plus the mk3 is a interference motor i think, 2.0 mk3 iono, but the 2.0 mk4 is non interference, more space between pistons and valves to prevent a clash if the belt breaks, also the internals could have different measurements as well, but yeah im no mk3 expert... but thanks for the props on getting my car started, i just have an engine code, p0722 faulty output speed sensor which i have no idea what or where that is...


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (sengd001)*

The speed sensor is down below the oil cooler/ filter flange. A single 5 or 6mm bolt holds it on and is easy to replace. It's about directly in line with the starter. Those are like $40ish and some change for a new one I *think*, maybe more, I can't remember exactly though I do need a new one.


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## sengd001 (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

You pulling up the same codes? I haven't driven it yet, so iono what happens when it goes bad.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

AEG motor with a timing belt that snapped, proof that it's interference... marks from valves on the pistons. 
vdubbugman53 had it saved and it's perfect for a question like this.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (sengd001)*

No, not pulling any codes. Just mine is dirty and yucky with a cut in the seal so I figure I'd replace it.... add it to the list of new parts for my motor, hahah.


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## sengd001 (Dec 18, 2006)

humm, maybe it is interference then lol, but you dont have any issues with your car with the sensor? Maybe I'll buy it off you? pm me with price


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (sengd001)*

Since you have an automatic, your sensor looks like this one:








http://www.autohausaz.com/sear...ensor

Since my car is a manual, it looks like this one:








Yours, according to the link I gave, is only $59 SHIPPED (Free shipping on orders over $50 from AutohausAZ)
Might want to double check on the kind of sensor when you go to locate it.


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## sengd001 (Dec 18, 2006)

That is very strange... 
I looked next to my oil filter and have the exact same one as the manny, or the lower link, it has a cable and the red o ring, 
If I move more to the right if I am facing the car, the top sensor you posted a photo of is there,
Then if I move more to my right, or further away from my flywheel I have another sensor which looks like the one below, only it is smaller and instead of a red o ring it has a white one... all 
these are speed sensors for my car, 
There is also another one closer towards the firewall on top of my tranny which looks like the top one, but it is for my speedometer, so I have 4 sensors that I have taken out which are lying on my table in front of me as I speak...


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## sengd001 (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (sengd001)*

So question is out of these 4, which one is throwing the P0722 code for a faulty output speed sensor? Oh and they all seem to be in great condition, they are even still magnetic, so iono if its even a bad sensor or faulty connection, or where it would be since I don't even know which sensor of these 4 is causing it...


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (sengd001)*

Take a picture of where all the sensors go and whatnot that you're speaking of(hard to understand written directions because it depends on how you're facing). I'll refer to my Bentley to see exactly what sensors are what and where for the tranny.


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## sengd001 (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

Throwing 4 codes now, p0715, p0715, p0722, p0722
went to stealership, told me its my crank sensor, and the speedometer one, on the top of the tranny if I face vehicle, only prob is he said it could be either the one closest to the flywheel or the one farther away if I am facing my car, the driverside most sensor is hard to get out, looks like i may need to get the motor mounts off to take em off again...


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## vdubbugman53 (Nov 7, 2006)

*FV-QR*

there is only 1 crank position sensore....bottom of block front of motor flywheel side...1 bolt.
tranny one is also fairly easy to get to


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## sengd001 (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubbugman53)*

Just replaced all sensors (facing car left/pass to right/driver side):
1.the one before flywheel near oil filter*Crank* 








2.the one after flywheel *Speed sensor g38* 








3.the next one after flywheel *Speed Sensor g68* 








4.the one on top of tranny (speedometer) *Speed Sensor g22* 
still same codes....










_Modified by sengd001 at 8:26 PM 7-31-2009_


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (sengd001)*

from another thread about the same codes p0715:

_Quote, originally posted by *bearing01* »_Well, I don't know the details of the VW auto-tranny. The input shaft / turbine sensor usually tells the ECM the speed of the shaft. Then the ECM can use that info and compare it with the tranny output shaft speed sensor. The ECM can then determine if the car is in the correct gear and how to regulate shift timing, torque converter clutch apply pressure and line pressure to use to apply clutches and bands.
If the tranny is shifting hard or shifting at times that you're not used to then maybe the sensor turely is bad. Depending on how the sensor is wired up, maybe the sensor isn't getting voltage, ground or a wire is broken or something. If the sensor is bad then I don't know what's involved to replace it. I would hope you can access it through the tranny oil sump pan. Hopefully all you have to do is drop the pan and filter and then access it.... or maybe have to remove the valve body and get at it that way. If you're not used to working on auto-trannies then maybe it's something you should bring to the dealer.
We have an automatic transmission forum. Try over there. Also, if you have a VAG-COM then there is probably some diagnostics you can do with that to see if the problem really exists. Try the VAG-COM forum.


_Quote, originally posted by *03Jetta1.8T* »_from what Jetta_1.8Tip says that code descriptions are i will give my opinion.
Your trans is slipping to the point that the TCM is seeing a large RPM variation between input shaft speed and output shaft speed. this happens what the clutches slip and the trans flares. Are you having any slipping issues with that trans before it went into limp mode?
Everytime i see these two faults its because K1 clutch pack has failed and the car is either "neutralling" or banging into gear from a stop.


or you could try a brief system reset:

_Quote, originally posted by *StaffordS* »_you cant just disconnect the battery for a short time like 30 min or so and that should do. Make sure you have your radio reset code and stuff from your radio manual. 


If you just put in new sensors, can you clear all them CEL's and they do come back?


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## sengd001 (Dec 18, 2006)

I erased the codes on the obd, but the lights still on, right now, car cranks, and everything, almost to the point of starting, but never gets there, cranks so starter is good, battery is new, got replaced today under warranty, no idea right now getting frustrated because it ran, but now it wont start... I mean wth?? iono anymore, possible serious issue as in what u think?


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## vdubbugman53 (Nov 7, 2006)

*FV-QR*

back to basics.....Air, Spark, Fuel


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## sengd001 (Dec 18, 2006)

obd2 isnt pulling codes for anything but those sensors, spark/fuel/air.... iono it cranks,so maybe no fuel to injectors, no spark at ignition, air iono hummm... how could i test for these, wait don't answer that, just let me do my research before u get back to me on that, 
btw... if it cranks would that mean my crank sensor is good though? I just bought it n wanna be sure...


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## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

*Re: (sengd001)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sengd001* »_btw... if it cranks would that mean my crank sensor is good though? I just bought it n wanna be sure...

No. It can crank with a bad crank sensor.


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## sengd001 (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (FL 2.0L)*

But it just wont start right?


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## sengd001 (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (sengd001)*

OK....
You guys are probably going to have a field day with this one but....
The problem was (drum roll) THERE WAS NO GAS IN THE CAR!! I can't believe I missed that!! Its like you said basics, I jumped striaght to the complicated stuff, the sensors were good, just the lack of fuel threw those stuid codes... I wasted 100 bucks on 4 sensors!! damnit... any one here need a crank, speedometer sensor, and those two speed sensors lmk $25 each


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## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

Too funny. So you got all of the speed sensor codes because you were scanning it without the car running, huh?


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## sengd001 (Dec 18, 2006)

WAYYYYYYY too funny lol, I swear its the littlest things I mean my gosh!!


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## vdubbugman53 (Nov 7, 2006)

*FV-QR*

very well done if i must say so my self


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubbugman53)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubbugman53* »_very well done if i must say so my self


I do agree! 
reminds me of when my cabin blower wouldn't work, so I bought a new fan for $50. Ended up being a $0.05 fuse!


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## sengd001 (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

Update, soooo I FINALLY took her out for a test drive, after I bleed the brakes and every thing of course, then....
1. I noticed the car was driving/idling rough, 
2. my cel began to flash, 
3. the abs light was on, 
4. my battery light turned on, 
5. lacked power steering, (however my alternator was working when I checked, and serpentine belt intact), 
The only thing I can think of as of now would be when I pulled the wheel bearings out I may have damaged the hub sensors on the front passenger side, because I feel it hitting something, oh and the fumes are strong, like gas and smoke (of course I just refilled brake fluid, and it spilled onto engine, a lot of it), took her to he gas station and smoke was coming out of the grille put hand on intake manny, and was hot to the touch, not burning, but hot, temp gauge was at half way, but this was 4am in the morning, maybe a coolant line is disconnected because it poured everythere, and also a vaccum line that is misconnected?
4 NEW CEL CODES: 
P0102
P0112
P0301
P0134








Also right now I'm only running water in my resouvour not coolant yet, and I see huge leak when I park it, another reason why I'm not using coolant yet
Oh yeah, too much oil in car...


_Modified by sengd001 at 11:50 AM 8-3-2009_


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (sengd001)*

flashing CEL generally means a misfire on one of the cylinders. Too lazy to scroll back but have you check all the spark plug wires? New ones? They tend to arc out to the block and cause a misfire. 
Also, again with me being lazy but might want to post up for others to know what the codes you got mean. I'm at work and my machine hails me (I'm a machinist) so I can't search a long while for them. 
Have you checked all electrical connections and verifyed EVERYTHING is plugged in?
As for the coolant leak, is it leaking out of the coolant flange on the back side (actually tranny side) of the motor? That plastic thing tends to fail the most often.


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## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

0102 is maf low input - clean it, possibly replace it


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## sengd001 (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (FL 2.0L)*

Ok first of all I just personally wanted to thank you guys for sticking with me and giving me advice, I've noticed its been the same group of people throughout this process so thanks for helping and bearing with me during this difficult process I really appreciate it A LOT







,
Now back to the car, 
1. I put what each code meant on the top portion like you recommended, 
2. Also I drained a quart and a half of oil to be safe, will add more today if low, 
3. Next the power steering issue is likely due to the fact that the fluid spilled out during the swap and is likely completely drained, 
4. I plan on cleaning my maf today
5. Find that coolant leak, and sealing
6. Then resetting the codes, 
7. I also took off my wheel to look at my hub sensor for the abs, its bent, but only slightly, I do not think, (could be wrong) that that would be enough to cause it to shake (not close enough to hit, plus sensor isn't damaged like it was hitting), but it might be enough to cause the abs light to go on.... 
That's it for now, oh I also repainted my calipers since I was down there anyhow, only took like an hour atm








*4 NEW CEL CODES: (All seem to be related to the evap/emissions system)
P0102-MAF circuit low input
P0112-Intake air sensor 1 circuit low
P0301-cylinder 1 misfire
P0134-No signal from O2 Sensor* 


_Modified by sengd001 at 6:58 AM 8-4-2009_


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (sengd001)*

I bet the intake air sensor is related to the MAF since that's the only real sensor that does anything on the intake side that I can think of at the moment. 
Check the plug connections to #1 as you might just have something loose.
For the O2 sensor, umm...... if the car didn't run because there wasn't any gas in the tank, is the O2 even plugged in?

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view
















Sorry, low blow on that one but couldn't resist








This is such an interesting problem that I wish I could just dig into it and really work on it. It's got me rather intrigued.










_Modified by TMTuned99.5Golf at 11:37 PM 8-4-2009_


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## sengd001 (Dec 18, 2006)

Hahahaaa,
Yeah it okay, stupid gas tank... it was a doumb mistake, ended up draining like 3 quarts of oil, ran car for 10 mins, started to leak oil, and began to overheat.... I did all the hard stuff already (motor swap) now its like fine tuning crud....
All I know is im not happy with her, and im like 5 seconds from throwing in the towel and calling in a mechanic


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: 4 CEL Codes, I need some advice on what to do next... (sengd001)*

screw getting a mechanic, buy me and my toolbox a round trip ticket! Heh, my small toolbox weighs like 40 some pounds.....
I wouldn't worry about the #1 misfiring unless it's causing your car to run bad. 
Clean the MAF using the CRC brand MAF cleaner. It didn't ruin mine when I cleaned it and so far it's the only stuff that I know for certain (so far) that won't kill one. 
If no power steering, try bleeing the system, might be an air bubble in there perchance?


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## sengd001 (Dec 18, 2006)

that's the problem...
it is running bad, i hit up a mech on craigslist he says he might know whats up, im hoping its not piston or anything or blown head gasket.... what you think?


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## sengd001 (Dec 18, 2006)

lol on the flight, im broke cant afford anything lol


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## sengd001 (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (sengd001)*

_*OK... STATUS UPDATE:*_ 
1. Soooo... I figured out why the battery kept dying, my alternator ground and positive were reversed, essentially I had grounds everywhere, but no circuit i.e. engine to tranny to chassis and back to engine, its supposed to be like a circle, my circle was broken so shorts were happening, luckily my alternator ground was kinda bad (paint wasn't fully stripped) so it wasn't toasted







so I bought 2 4 gauge negative cables to ground my car correctly and complete my circuit
2. Rattling was from my serpentine belt, one of the wheels only had one lug on instead of 4 (used auto zone bolt no way to torque it to specs since there wasn't an Allen key hole to torque it with), so I bought the bolts and blue lock tight to put on.
3. Cylinder 1 misfire, VW sent out a recall notice a few years back (from the coil pack, there is a brown wire I think?? Which needs to be grounded on its own directly to the chassis)
4. ABS light, VW tech stopped by with vag com my front driversside wheel sensor is bad and needs to be replaced
Sooooooo....
Now I just need to find out where my oil/coolant is leaking from, and essentially why it is leaking.
_*In the meantime:*_ 
-Cut my rear R32 bump and got it to fit flush with my car, and installed my rear license lights
-Installed my R32 front bump, got it somewhat flush, needs some more modding
-Installed my diy $20 Cupra lip
-Installed and painted my lower bumper mesh grilles for my R32 Front/Rear bumpers black
-Retrofitted 2 front '89 BMW 3 series power window motors to fit my golf
-Repainted interior trim silver
-Installed/cleaned up speaker grills and wiring for sub/speaker setup
-I went to my VW oem parts hookup in Van Nuys, and bought power window switches and a control arm for 45 bucks (upgrading to power windows, and my thread on the control arm on the passenger side is stripped so I replaced the whole thing)
-I also repainted my brake calipers, 
-I refitted the GTI door wires, and ran the power window wires from the driver/passenger side windows together to a ground and mutual power source
-Also to help pay for all this being a broke college student and all, I've lowered a D9A Integra, Infinity G35, and a '99 Civic SI, also did a sub/head unit install in a 2000 Volvo S40, and some tacky neons in a 09 Sentra for this one "daddy's little princess" chick lol, shes coming back for me to install leds in her car on Monday, oh and sold my hockey table as well lol....
_*STILL NEED:*_ 
-2 Front tires
-Alignment
-Double din touchscreen navigation
-Repaint passenger side skirt
-Freon for A/C unit


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (sengd001)*

can you post some pics of the engine bay to where you see the leaks coming from about?
It's the easiest way we can help you out in giving you an idea what might be the solution.


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## sengd001 (Dec 18, 2006)

Been awhile, but I got the car running great for about a year and a half or more, unfortunately my car is having issues yet again. It overheaded on the freeway, so I pulled over turned on heater full blast. Coolant hose broke, replaced it and everything, output speed sensor not reading again p0722, this time theres definately gas in the car lol.

So.... 

-My car overheaded, 
-It cranks but doesn't start, took the sparkplug wires out and put near block, and found it has spark, 
-Opened up the Valve cover to see the plastic cover on the inside was all melted, I took it off and cleaned everything up inside,
-No idea if its getting fuel, buzzing noise when key is in ignition though so I think the pump is engaging, 

What do you think it could be? What sensor or sensors could be causing it? Oh and lmk about the crank sensor if you posted it I really need it, been without a car in 4 weeks!! 

PS: 
Well it overheated, I turned the heater up full blast, the temp guage was not in the red, but halfway from the middle where it normally is to the red. When I turned on the heater the temp went bellow the normal halfway idle point. It overheated about a min or less because I turned on the heater full blast, then the temp dropped, so I drove it another 5 mins max before I was able to pull over because I was on the freeway. It made a clunking noise like it hit something and I noticed coolant leaking. Don't think rod bearings or tie rods broke, because I shut off car myself, just wouldn't restart after coolant repair.


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