# 1.8t turbo replacement



## eXcel161 (Mar 26, 2009)

Quick and stupid question. Does the engine need to be lifted or droped to replace the turbo? Or can i just spin off the TIP and Downpipe, do the exhaust mani bolts oil line etc. and pull it up?


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## McBee (Aug 11, 2006)

Nope, no need to even release the mounts. Remove:

DP, TIP, Charge pipe
Lines
Support bracket
Turbo
Ex Mani

In that order. You will need an open ended wrench with a step to get to a few of the ex. mani bolts.


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## eXcel161 (Mar 26, 2009)

okay thanks man.


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## panheadjdhess (Oct 18, 2008)

*a blind old man question*

Got everything off my K03S but 1 thing I'm not seeing. I know theres a hose/pipe coming into the center or the turbo thats holding me up. Where/what the frick is it? I cant see it guess I better drop it off the jackstands and look, geez!!!! almost there.:screwy:


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## J_Bone (Apr 11, 2009)

its probably your oil or water lines. If you cant see/get to them remove the lines going to the block. They are a banjo style fitting with steel braided hose, if you remove those you might be able to remove the turbo easier. If you can find a DIY garage with bay lifts its a little easier.


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## juiceyou321 (Jul 18, 2008)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3562254-Stock-Turbo-Removal-Ko4-20-Install-My-DIY

Just follow the removal. You have to remove the coolant line that goes into the back of the block with a large allen wrench and the oil return line that goes in to the back of the oil pan. The other two lines you can undo from the top of the turbo once the exh mani is removed.


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## panheadjdhess (Oct 18, 2008)

*K03S removal!*

So I have the 2 banjo fittings on the top off, The oil return line is off, and the banjo fitting on the back of the block is off. I'm seeing a small metal line that appears to be attached with a 10 mm nut/bolt and looks to run to the lower side o9r front of the turbo. Is there another coolant fitting and if I can get to the 10mm nut that has a mounting bracket for the metal line, will it just pop out is is there another wrench I need that I just can't see. I know once that's off the turbo shoulod lift right out.

Sorry guys, this is my first turbo work.


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## panheadjdhess (Oct 18, 2008)

nevermind, I got it. It was an allen bolt holding on the cooling line that attached to the top. Got the turbo on the ground now. Now to break it down and if the the seals are bad or just replace it with another K03S.


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## juiceyou321 (Jul 18, 2008)

I wouldn't even waste my time pulling it apart.... that thing is shot. good job getting it out, it is a PITA the first time.


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## panheadjdhess (Oct 18, 2008)

yeah, I pulled on the shaft and it moved approx 4-6 mm, it's a gonner


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## steve05ram360 (Aug 14, 2006)

what are you going to replace it with? I just picked up a F4H-T for my audi which was leaking coolant.
http://frankenturbo.com/F4h-t.html if I could only find the time to get it in... everything except the turbo & ex-mani are already removed


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## TexasK04 (May 19, 2010)

*Crush washers*

Alls I have to say is make sure you put the crush washers on the coolant and oil lines when putting a replacement turbo back on..........or you will have leaks and have to do the whole job over again. Like I did.......!!!!!! :banghead:


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## panheadjdhess (Oct 18, 2008)

steve05ram360 said:


> what are you going to replace it with? I just picked up a F4H-T for my audi which was leaking coolant.
> http://frankenturbo.com/F4h-t.html if I could only find the time to get it in... everything except the turbo & ex-mani are already removed


Gonna buy a used k03s and put it on, then the wife wants to sell it because she can't stand the crayon smell either the undercoating or the adhesive gives off. It's a damn shame, new waterpump, timing belt, alternator....I've go a lot of time in this getting it in great shape.


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## Pats16vGTI (Mar 2, 2004)

Do the coolant and oil lines use the same crush washers? I am only seeing ones for the oil line on German auto parts and want to get my order in today.


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## rosasjonathan (Jul 3, 2011)

wow jbone, a&l performance in kendal? much


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## Mk1v (Mar 12, 2015)

*K03s turbo replacement*

Okay so I'm looking to replace my stock turbo in my jetta 1.8t cause my turbo seal is leaking oil. I've been researching and bunch of people suggested to rebuild the stock turbo but it will have to get balanced after and there's a few things that can go wrong. I'm wondering if I get a ko3s to swap out, is there anything else that needs to be done to complete the swap? Some people said its a bolt on turbo, take the stock out and replace it with a new one and your good to go, but that seems to good to be true. I might be wrong but I need some help with this. Is it worth rebuilding or swapping ? Or should I just sell the car?


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## GasInMyVeins (Jul 11, 2010)

First, start a new thread instead of digging up one from 2011.

For your question though, I'll assume you have a 150 Jetta with a K03, so yes, the K03s is totally bolt on. You will see little to no gains from it without tuning though. As for replacing or re-building, the re-build is pretty intensive (I did it recently), but if you are mechanically inclined, it's not too bad. If you are super careful to mark the wheel and shaft, it doesn't need to be balanced either. One note though that several DIYs leave out: the nut holding the compressor wheel to the turbine shaft is _reverse threaded!_ If you just want to replace it, don't buy an eBay one. I did (original's housing cracked and I was broke) and I ended up rebuilding it 10k later. I rebuilt it with OEM parts and it works great now though.


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## Mk1v (Mar 12, 2015)

GasInMyVeins said:


> First, start a new thread instead of digging up one from 2011.
> 
> For your question though, I'll assume you have a 150 Jetta with a K03, so yes, the K03s is totally bolt on. You will see little to no gains from it without tuning though. As for replacing or re-building, the re-build is pretty intensive (I did it recently), but if you are mechanically inclined, it's not too bad. If you are super careful to mark the wheel and shaft, it doesn't need to be balanced either. One note though that several DIYs leave out: the nut holding the compressor wheel to the turbine shaft is _reverse threaded!_ If you just want to replace it, don't buy an eBay one. I did (original's housing cracked and I was broke) and I ended up rebuilding it 10k later. I rebuilt it with OEM parts and it works great now though.


Oh my bad lol I didn't even see how old this was, I was just researching and decided to reply. So you think I should just get a ko3 and replace it myself? I would wanna try rebuilding it but it's my daily and I don't wanna screw it up. 
Thanks


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