# Vr6 won'the start..has me stumped. Please help!



## Ohhtrevor (Sep 6, 2015)

Hey vortex,
I've been a long time lurker on here for years now and have learned a lot about everything just from lurking and reading thread after thread...but I am stumped right now.

I have a 1992 gti with a supercharged vr6 obd2 swap, ran perfectly fine up until about 2 days ago. I came home from work after a long 40 Minute drive in southern California traffic and parked my car in the garage. The next morning it wouldn't start what so ever. 

Key in the ignition and everything come on but car gets no crank what so ever. I have been having to push start my car every day since.

So as of now I have replaced the starter, tested the battery, ive changed the ignition switch and tried to unplug the knock sensor to see if it would even crank over... still have nothing.

Anyou help would be damn great cause I need my car to get to work on Monday. 

Thanks in advance


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## BumblebVR6 (Nov 22, 2001)

I'd say ignition switch but you've already changed that  I'm in a similar situation but my car cranks, just doesn't start, but does after a few tries. My crank sensor is pretty new so I think I may have a bad cam sensor(original with 296k miles) or coil. 


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## Eric D (Feb 16, 1999)

Did you just acquire this car?

If so, the vehicle originally had door mounted seat belts. With this system the seat belt must be plugged in before the ignition will crank.
If the seat belt is connected, there is a possibility that one or both brown wires from the door latch are broken either at the latch or down by the door jamb.
These two brown wires lead to the starter interlock relay. You can easily jumper the two wires together and crimp them. This will act like the seat belt is latched thus allowing for the car to crank.

If the car has had the seat belts replaced (I hate door mounted belts, so I install earlier 3 point belts), then you need to find trace the wiring from the ignition switch to the fuse box, and fuse box to starter solenoid terminal 50.
I re-purposed the starter interlock relay to act as a starter relay (by-passing the ignition switch terminal 50). Ignition switch in my case just acts as a low current trigger for the relay, and the relay will allow 30A max or 40A depending on relay I choose. Regardless of the relay, the current from the relay is well below the max rating. 

Since this is a swap car, hopefully to guy who did the swap installed the DLC allowing you to scan the car for codes.

If he didn't, it would suck to troubleshoot, but it is easy to install one.


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