# Sticky  A1 Vr6 FAQ



## Bubble Block (Sep 19, 2009)

In the past few weeks I have found myself answering/responding to a lot of questions/threads in regards to a Mk1 Vr6 swap; needless to say, I figured it was time to start an A1 Vr6 FAQ thread. In no way am I a "all-knowing expert", simply an enthusiast with education and a technical background in the automotive industry. I will mainly be referring to the OBDII AAA Vr6 swap but will throw in whatever insight I come across in regards to OBDI (AAA), OBDII AFP (MkIV 12v), and even the AQP/AUE/BDE (24v). In no way am I affiliated with any of the parts suppliers in which I post links to; I am simply attempting to make an ease of access in identifying parts and where to buy. 

If I missed anything or listed incorrect information, please PM and I will update the information accordingly; do not fill the thread with bickering and childish remarks!

It is easier to find a donor car and pull the parts you require to conduct your swap; opposed to piecing it together from various sources. Donor cars such as the MkIII Golf/Jetta, B3/B4 Passat, & Corrado (just to name a few) are a good source for the AAA Vr6 12v motor. Depending on the year your car, it will be either OBDI (Pre ’95) or OBDII (Post ’95). It is extremely important to know which system you are getting, as it may determine some of your modifications in the future (assuming you are not leaving it stock)

Parts to be considered from Donor vehicle (or sourced after deciding you want to conduct the Vr swap into your MkI)

Required Parts:
Engine (AAA or other)
Trans-axle (*02A*) 
Engine wiring harness/associated sensors
ECU


Optional parts (based on build goals):
Fuse box (CE2)
Cluster (speedo, tach, etc)
Shifter assembly (linkages & box)
5 lug swap
Brake master cyl/brake booster/abs unit

_An important note in regards to the AFP 12v_ 


Vr6DubNY said:


> This post below is the closest thing you will find to a diy for an afp into a mk1.
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5797918-Mk4-AFP-VR6-swap-into-CE2-MK2
> 
> ...


_An Important note to the AQP/AUE/BDE (24v)_
When installing the 24v Vr6, the Oil Cooler interferes with the front torsion mount and requires modification; from what I found, the “modification” to the oil cooler is deleting the oil cooler sandwich plate or relocating it all together. I know there are a few aftermarket oil coolers in the market that may have different measurements, which may be a third option.


My recommendations on gathering parts to complete your swap are as follows:

Eurowise Stg II Kit (front brace helps!)
http://euro-wise.com/store/index.php...products_id=12

Eurowise 02A cable conversion
http://euro-wise.com/store/index.php...roducts_id=336

Eurowise Mk1 Vr6 Trottle cable
http://euro-wise.com/store/index.php...roducts_id=756

Eurowise Heater core adapter 
http://euro-wise.com/store/index.php...roducts_id=728

Eurowise down pipe (assuming your are building for performance, if not just get the 2.25 header back setup)
http://euro-wise.com/store/index.php...roducts_id=260

Eurowise shorty oil pan (also depends on your build needs; if you plan on going low, buy it.)
http://euro-wise.com/store/index.php...roducts_id=773

BBM Speedometer cable (assuming you want to maintain your Mk1 cluster; opposed to swapping in the mkIII cluster)
http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/p...edometer_Cable

11"/10.1 and adapter brake upgrade kit (necessity, regardless if you build for performance or stock) *Upgrade both front and rear brakes!*
http://www.momentummotorparts.com/store/brakingmk1.asp

Billet Crackpipe (motor will be out, may as well replace it and prevent future headache)
http://gruvenparts.com/website/cart/cart.php?target=product&product_id=255&category_id=60

Billet upper rad hose Y Pipe (same reason as the one above, prevent future headache)
http://gruvenparts.com/website/cart/...category_id=60

Billet OBDI Oil Filter conversion (Don't over look this, aside from that crappy leaky housing in the OBDII; the OBDII filters suck!)
http://gruvenparts.com/website/cart/...category_id=60

Coil pack spacer (not a necessity but can prevent future headache)
http://www.verdictmotorsports.com/Volkswagen_12v_VR6_Coil_Insulator_Saver_low_temp_p/0137.htm 

Silicone Hose Kit (not necessary but an option)
http://www.urotuning.com/Forge-Silicone-Coolant-Hose-Kit-8pcs-Mk3-p/fmkc015.htm

02A Stainless Steel Shift rod package (not necessary for the build but will allow u to use the 02A w/o the mkiii/donor car linkages or shifter box. The guy who makes them is Claus von Essen and he speaks very good english. He will tell you what you need to do to order it.) *PM me and I will send you his Email.*
http://www.clausvonessen.de/pi69/pi38/pd1332.html 

NLS Also makes an 02A & 02J Swap kit (you will have to verify that it can be used with the Eurowise kit, I doubt it though. The Eurowise engine swap kit relocates the motor 3" over from stock)
http://nothingleavesstock.com/online-store/#ecwid:category=2903030&mode=product&product=13912984

_Note in regards to the 02A Trans-axle_


VWpowa said:


> 3.94 and peloquin are the two best mods I have done. It's taken me almost 15 years to do it. Really transformed the car. Got mine from an 02j that had a spun 5th gear.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2


_Emissions Delete (if your state allows on "Antiques")_
Secondary Air pump removal
http://pwrhaus.myshopify.com/collections/block-off-plates/products/pwrhaus-vr6-sai-plug

O2 Sensor Spacer (Assuming you are removing opposed to installing a wideband)
http://store.blackforestindustries.com/oxsesp.html

C2 Race Chip; remove SAI codes (other brands & options availble, mainly an example)
http://store.blackforestindustries.com/c2moobd2vr6s1.html

***I will continue to update accordingly***

As far as general information goes, you can use the stock radiator, the mkiii (donor car) radiator with slight modification for fitment, a Corrado Radiator with the mk3 fan, or an aftermarket radiator (I choose to upgrade to a lighter, slimmer, godspeed unit). The mkiii Vr6 fuel pump will not fit in place of the mki (the mki fuel pump will be efficient for mild builds), Suspension upgrade (bushings, shocks/struts, etc) is an absolute necessity for drivability, same is true for the braking system (recommend 22mm master cyl). 

In regards to wiring; there are 3 ways to accomplish this swap. You can use a dual fuse box setup, wire the motor into your Mk1 fuse block, or Convert everything into the CE2 fuse block. Personally I will be leaving the mk1 fuse box inside to control the electrical body components & use the Ce2 (mkiii/donor car fuse block) for the engine. This will just be a temporary setup as I will eventually be converting everything over to the CE2 fuse block. The benefit of a dual fuse block setup is it’s a cheap way of making your swap a plug & play set up and eliminates the need for custom schematics.

_Dual Fuse box information_ 


the mad conductor said:


> you get a signal line coming from the car (switched 12v and start) from the ignition switch and wire it up to the ce2 box. its pretty much 5 wires to hook up and it starts. +12v, ground, switched 12v and starter output. then you gotta bypass the starter kill, which you can do by a 30amp fuse.


Nothing-Leaves-Stock (NLS) and Eurowise offer a Plug & Play harnesses for those who prefer to maintain the Mk1 fuse block. The PnP harness from NLS is compatible with Mk1 Scirocco fuse block which utilizes ceramic fuses. The PnP harness from NLS also allows you to retain the OBDII connection (I have not verified these two facts with the Eurowise harness).

Additional information on Radiator setup


Vr6DubNY said:


> And just for some more info as you asked about radiator options... People run every radiator imagineable...i however am running a rabbit non overflow (one without the filler cap) flipped so the outlets are on the drivers side...i am running a single 12" flex a lite fan on it as a pusher. I believe it should be enough as my entire cooling system is new, including t stats, fan switch, radiator, t stat housing, crack pipe...the only thing i reused were some of the hoses. Also something to think about is that a mk4 t stat housing sends the coolant pipe out the front so you can run an s shaped hose, i feel it is a cleaner look than the side exit of the mk3 pipe.


_Retaining the Vr6 A/C_


heywier427 said:


> get a radiator from a 1979 Peugeot
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C7S1SO/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item_image
> 
> ...


Another Member recommended not using the Rad., said to use the Corrado Rad. Instead.
Shortly after another member responded stating


allroad said:


> I use the Corrado rad. In the cabby I needed to create my own mounts, but it was worth the (small amount of) time to do that - tons more clearace when paired with slimline fans.



_Custom Downpipe_ (for those who don't want to spend $$$ on a Eurowise Set. Just an example, there are many ways to accomplish this)


laxman1306 said:


>



_Information in regards to weight_
VW Vr6 12v weight/specs
Volkswagen Jetta, Passat, Corrado. '92-'98, 2900cc VR6. Computer controlled. Specify slant 7½º or vertical. Length: 19"; Height: 181/2" *Weight: 374lb*; 172 HP.
Source
www.kennedyenginc.com

While this is not referring to a mk1 swap, there is some knowledge to be gained in regards to weight distribution when dropping in a Vr6. *This is why upgrading suspension and brakes is so important*!


FaithInMkIII2.0 said:


> Not exactly sure how heavy either of these engines is but the VR is definitely heavier than the AHU..I just swapped an AHU into a B4VGLX and it is now at a reverse rake because of less weight in front....ABA is w out a doubt the light weight out of the bunch, my ABA powered coupe that was a/c and p/s free was uberlight, you could tell a difference between how my mk2 TDI takes big bumps compared to the ease at which the coupe would take them...however now that I have my GTI TDI at a reasonable ride height on Shine racing springs, it takes bumps much better.
> ABA and AHU/1Z are basically the same basic block. then you add heavier pistons (combustion chamber in the piston) , cast iron IP bracket, IP, lines, injectors, turbo charger, EGR cooler, etc
> VR6 (mk3) larger overall block than 4 cyl, heavy cyl head, timing chains (heavier than belt drive)
> 
> ...


This illustration above also explains why there is so much space for adding Turbochargers.

Additionally,



Vegeta Gti said:


> ful JH motor, with lighter stainless header, all fluids, trans/clutch no axles : 349lbs
> 
> 2.8l vr6, all fluids, aftermarlet valvetrain, LSD in trans, stainless headers, etc : 538lbs
> 
> ...


The above is why it is so important to upgrade your brakes and suspension.

Here is some additional information in regards to working on the Vr6 and 02A (Not really swap information but it helps to know)

_Relatively inexpensive, reliable, powerful Vr6 build_
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...relatively-inexpensive-reliable-powerful-Vr6.

_Timing Chain Replacement_
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1264409

_Ce2 Full conversion_ (For an ABA but it all applies :thumbup: )
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...2.0-swap-2.0-into-A1-2.0-into-MK1-info-thread

_Ford 4.6 Coil Pack conversion information_ Click Here for the Original Thread ~ Thank GardenSnake for post. I personally prefer to maintain the OEM Coilpack but wanted to provide the information for those interested.

_02A to 02J Shifter Conversion (aka short shifter) _ Click Here for the Original write up ~ Thank EvoRabbit for the link, Thank TheCorradoKid24 for the write up! 
I really don't want to put to much repetitive information that can be found by using the search function; however, those are quite helpful and should be reviewed when conducting a swap.



This isn't even touching rebuilding the engine or building it for performance (there are threads already created for that); honestly it depends on your goals, financial standings, and time line. It is my recommendation to conduct a thorough check of the engine prior to installing it in your MkI, including but not limiting to: checking timing chains/associated parts, spark plugs (identify running condition of motor), compression (Rings/valves sealing properly), All gaskets (don’t forget out the rear main seal!), Oil (color matters and look for shiny particles), Flywheel Starter ring (teeth do brake off!), Clutch, hoses (assuming you are reusing the old ones), Vacuum lines/plugs, and the cooling system (recommend replacing the water pump/thermostat).

_Please Note_:
The Eurowise is not the only way to put a Vr6 in your MkI, there are other options that involve permanent modifications to your chassis; If anyone wants to chime in on those methods feel free to PM me and I will add it in. I prefer to have the option to remove my swap and sell the shell or leave the option to drop another motor in the future (based on technological advances); therefore I have not done the research to conduct such a swap and in turn do not have the information to share.

I will update this post with photos in time. Big thanks to everyone who has given to this thread (either by my quoting your information or adding insight). Happy building fellow dubbers. :beer:

_Just a friendly heads up to the people working on a tight budget_
This swap can be done and functional with the bare minimum and a lot of cut corners; outside of that, expect to spend some $$$. Since July of 2013 I have invested Well Over 12k into this build (mind you that was including a shell that was already done in terms to body, brakes, & suspension). I still need to spend another 1-2k before it will be running. This is with me rebuilding the motor and adding performance parts for my build goals. If anyone is interested in my build thread, feel free to PM me and I will send you a link. 

~Reca


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## evorabbit (Jan 2, 2007)

great write-up man. Thanks for taking the time the only thing I would recommend is the o2j to 02a http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5820143-DIY-02A-gt-02J-Shifter-conversion-for-VR6-SLC-Cars this mod with the diesel geek mk4 short shift is amazing...and the ford 4.6 coil conversion after all the bugs are worked out you will never need another coil again. I did mine the old fashioned Weld in way using a hot rod harness . my Jetta shell was completely gutted no wires... Murray


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## Bubble Block (Sep 19, 2009)

@ EvoRabbit,

Thank you for your insight and adding to the thread (I implemented the OP's in the link/info you submitted) :thumbup:

Here is some additional information in regards to working on the Vr6 (Not really swap information so I didn't edit it into the OP)

_Relatively inexpensive, reliable, powerful Vr6 build_
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...relatively-inexpensive-reliable-powerful-Vr6.

_Timing Chain Replacement_
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1264409

_Ce2 Full conversion_ (For an ABA but it all applies :thumbup: )
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...2.0-swap-2.0-into-A1-2.0-into-MK1-info-thread

I really don't want to put to much repetitive information that can be found by using the search function; however, those are quite helpful and should be reviewed when conducting a swap.

:beer:

~Reca


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## bansheelos (Nov 29, 2004)

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## AWopGenius (May 14, 2009)

:beer:


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## Bubble Block (Sep 19, 2009)

Bringing this back up top :beer:


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## CasuallyWreckless (Aug 27, 2007)

I used a rado rad with a mk3 fan. If you search funksoulkitty there's a good writeup on how to do a hydro clutch setup. I put my Vr Rocco on hold for a bit but I hope to be back at it soon:thumbup: ce2 conversion is pretty straight forward just time consuming. Thanks for starting this I had such an influx of Pm's myself. 
Nls makes the p&p harnesses. 
United Motorsports also makes a good tune for the 12v
42dd makes a nice intake elbow with a bung for a 1.8t iat
I personally rec a LSD of some sort
If you do a search for root beers thread how to build a fast reliable vr6 it has tonssss of useful Vr info :thumbup:


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## Bubble Block (Sep 19, 2009)

*Bumping this up for those in need.*

I will be adding some information over the next few days :beer:


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## hieriv1126 (Jan 9, 2009)

*MK1 GTi 24 valve Swap. Front Mount?*

I have the Eurowise engine mount kit for this swap and I keep seeing everywhere that the front mount will hit the oil cooler in my swap. Eurowise says "just a little modification to the oil cooler." what does that mean? i have been searching the forums here for quite a while and havent found a solid answer on what to modify or how to modify the oil cooler for this 24v VR6. I dont want to run into a problem when im dropping the motor and trans in so if anyone has input or pictures of this oil cooler "modification" for the 24v, please let me know. Thanks :beer:


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## Bubble Block (Sep 19, 2009)

*Not doing a 24v conversion but..*



hieriv1126 said:


> I keep seeing everywhere that the front mount will hit the oil cooler in my swap. Eurowise says "just a little modification to the oil cooler." what does that mean?


I did some research on this problem. From what I have found, the "modification" to the oil cooler is deleting the Oil cooler sandwhich plate or relocating it all together. I know there are a few aftermarket oil coolers in the market that may have different measurements, which may be another option all together. Hoped this helps (I will add what I found into the original post as well. 

Post some pics of how you get it worked out. Good luck.
:beer:


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## nothing-leaves-stock (Mar 1, 2005)

we make a PLUG-N-PLAY harness for VR6 obd2 swaps into a mk1. takes 3 wires to hook up  power, ground and a trigger wire. super simple and no need to cut up your mk1 harness! 
$450 or $375 with a GOOD uncut core.


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## prom king (Aug 14, 2004)

A lot of the links are dead


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