# Stroker + Big Turbo, Chip and tuning campanies?



## Audi Boy TT (Feb 25, 2009)

I'm Thinking of Doing a huge project with a Integrated engineering stroker kit with a big turbo and so on but before i pull a piston on my baby I want to find good places to do a chip and custom tube. does anyone have advice?


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## A4 1.8 Turbo (Feb 28, 2005)

*Re: Stroker + Big Turbo, Chip and tuning campanies? (Audi Boy TT)*

custom tube! 
GIAC, Unitronics, and there's another one im forgetting
but they all do big turbo files. 
were you going to keep the MAF or do pressure based tuning?


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## Vdub 2.0 (Jan 8, 2008)

*Re: Stroker + Big Turbo, Chip and tuning campanies? (Audi Boy TT)*

eurodyne


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## 2001TTransport (Sep 18, 2005)

*Re: Stroker + Big Turbo, Chip and tuning campanies? (Vdub 2.0)*

Maestro


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## chaugner (Jul 13, 2002)

*Re: Stroker + Big Turbo, Chip and tuning campanies? (Audi Boy TT)*

before trying to jump at hardware/software/setup. Figure out your goals first.
- Do you want a daily driver? 
- How much power you looking for?
- Whats the budget for setup?
- whats your annual maintenance budget? (figure min 20% of total setup cost just to run a BT car per year)
- what about supporting non-power components? (drive train, haldex, suspension)
- what about current state of the car in terms of maintenance (bushings, seals, lines, etc)?

Once you have an answer to those you can go for the quest of selecting the actual parts for the engine. Many times a simple setup is best (simple in terms of just doing rods and getting pagparts bottom mount 3071r). Its cheap, lower maintenance and ton of fun. Going stroker will need head work, supporting head mods (valves, springs, intake mani, TB, custom FMIC, etc). Going for more then 350awhp gets VERY expensive very quickly. Even with the 3071r kit you can throw in race gas on oem like hardware and get to 400awhp. Plenty of power for a daily.


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## bvgoosedd (Mar 5, 2009)

really 20% of total setup cost just to run a BT car per year? i've had mine for 6 months about now and no issues just spark plugs, and the reg stuff. but i only have a gt3076r. if ur going with anything above a gt35 i think that is where you have to worry. from the research i did before doing my bt setup cars above like 400hp shouldn't be dd's.


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## chaugner (Jul 13, 2002)

*Re: (bvgoosedd)*

20% per year is a safety net. Meaning worst case scenario you need to be able to absorb this much for stuff that breaks. You do not want to end up with a car that has 400hp when it works and the bus when **** is broken.
Clutch, transmission, tires, etc, things that like to break easily and if you go with a 2.2 (well then you will probably not just go with a small 350hp turbo) so more stuff breaks. Bushings wear out faster, leaks, just random stuff. If you are mechanically inclined yeah probably less but if you NEED the car and do not have time to mess around with an exhaust leak, or some other issue you may have to use a shop to help.
So lets assume a total cost of $5-6K for a decently balanced BT kit, 20% of that does not sound too bad for the "oh shi$ type of scenario"
The main reason I posted up the "Q&A" above was to make sure that hardware is chosen for the right reasons - not just because you think you need more displacement. There are many ways to get to whatever goals you have with lower displacement (I am assuming the 2.2 decision is somehow related to lower spool, you can get higher comp pistons if you want more low end power, or other options). Choosing 2.2 for the sake of having 2.2 does not seem like the right choice to me.
Just trying to help out.


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## A4 1.8 Turbo (Feb 28, 2005)

*Re: (chaugner)*

Is the TT your going to start with a 180 or 225?


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## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

2.2L stroker is a much larger feat than a 2L stroker with AEG/FSI crank. (which i would suggest to you)
if cost is an issue, do not bother with 2.2L as there is extensive modification involved in the said. Please keep in mind of possible problem prone areas such as oil squirter clearances, kock sensor codes.. with a 2.2L dont expect to be passing any emissions with all those codes (related to daily driver cars) 
What i think the guy before was tryign to say is, consider what you need the most before stocking up on parts and then finding out you actually needed something else when the car is put together. 
A 2L stroker has been done extensively... look at A4 1.8Tguys, its a common thing. Tuning for a 2L using FSI/AEG crank should not be an issue as the base programs out there are more than adequate for the conversion. 
even with as stock 1.8T block, a chip tune still needs dyno time to fine tune and get the most out of it. a lot of people wonder why they plug in an ecu and the car doenst do what they "expect" it to do. 
look around for a few storker option. If you have any specific technical questions, i suggest you speak to INA as they are aggressively marketing strokers. 
as a guide, what the guy above i think is trying to say, if your car as 150k+miles or 200Kms+ really ..to just slap a turbo on the motor might not be the wisest idea, adversly .. if you have a low mileage motor, then it would be a more cost effective idea on slapping the turbo and some rods and away you go... 
some food for thought.


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## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: (A4 1.8 Turbo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *A4 1.8 Turbo* »_Is the TT your going to start with a 180 or 225? 

when speaking in terms of a Stroker kit .. 180HP TT or 225HP TT makes no difference as all stroker pistons +rod setups are the same 20mm pins.


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## M this 1! (May 17, 2000)

*Re: (DurTTy)*

it is for surely over exaggerating to think you'll spend $5k on a BT set up and another $1000 annual. "The do it right the first time" is what really should be stressed.


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## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: (M this 1!)*


_Quote, originally posted by *M this 1!* »_it is for surely over exaggerating to think you'll spend $5k on a BT set up and another $1000 annual. "The do it right the first time" is what really should be stressed.

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

The only way i can see a cost going up to 1k+ territory is if you have a dedicated track car, with enough power to be blowing drive shafts and axles every so many passes. 
or killin brakes + clutch aggressively lap after lap after lap


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## Audi Boy TT (Feb 25, 2009)

*Re:*

Thanks for the help guys. I know i havent responded in a while. If any one responds here's my plan.
2L stroker kit, full valvetrain upgrades, cams, Coolant upgrades(radiator oil cooler, etc...), full fuel delivery system upgrade (FPR,Rail,630cc injectors), reconfigure entire suspension(coils,strut bars, tie rods, control arms, braces, antiroll, camber adjusters, wheel spacers,), Drivetrain (haldex controller, Flywheel, Clutch, lightweight driveshafts) and a big turbo setup(whatever will get me to 500AWHP). more stuff too but it's irrelevant. 
Honestly it will take a few years but Thats ok, I won't be driving it too much, and I estimate around $15,000 total and an insane amount of wrench time. 
I'm trying to see if it is possible to get a chip or if I need a custom or should i do a standalone. Don't worry I know I'm mental but this car has been my life for many years so to me it's worth the pain.


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## A4 1.8 Turbo (Feb 28, 2005)

*Re: Re: (Audi Boy TT)*

maestro or uni or i think giac does big turbo stuff now. but all those companies will be able to send you a base file for 630cc injectors and you'll be able to do some data logs and stay in contact for file updates.


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## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

I agree, 
go with a Tuner base file 630CC (since you say those are your injectors) 
Uni or Eurodyne --- as i said... the base file is just to get you rolling out of the shop... dont expect Magic out of the box. you still need dyno time --- 
**especially since you are doing Cams **
Dyno + Base Tuner File = (apprx) price of Stand Alone with no dyno time or installation.
The dyno time will also allow you to fine tune the A/F ratio and if you have an EBC with the abilty to save "files" you can take the opportunity to do that at the same time. 
this is the route i am going as it is cost effective and less down time -- (Tuned ECU + Dyno time)


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