# Crankshaft Front Seal



## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

I need input from someone who has replaced the crankshaft front seal. I'm currently replacing my timing belt and noticed that there is a little oil residue around the crankshaft seal. It doesn't look too bad but since the timing belt kit includes a new seal I was thinking about replacing it. However, I can't get the front crankshaft bolt off which needs to come out to replace the seal. I'm using the correct socket and a 2 ft pry bar, sprayed the little gap between the bolt and the timing belt sprocket, tapped the bolt a few times but still it won't come loose. I'm being very careful not to round of the bolt so I gave up today. 

Judging by the photos below, would this be considered a very minor leak and should I just leave the old seal in place or am I asking for trouble not replacing it?



















Any suggestions or tricks on how the get the bolt off? Btw, the manual says to replace the bolt with a new one if it is taken off. Would it be ok to reuse the old one?


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## Motorista (Oct 28, 2005)

*A couple of thoughts*

Stefan,
First of all the leak, while not huge, seems too noticeable not to be taken care of, but that's just my humble opinion. 
Secondly, the yellow paint mark (stripe) on the bolt (probably added at the factory to track future disassembly) appears to show that the bolt moved roughly a quarter of a turn to the left (i.e. in the correct direction given that you were trying to loosen it): yet, you report that the bolt is not budging. I'm wondering if it might be left-threaded? Manufacturers sometimes do this to minimize the possibility of loosening on rotating shafts. If this is true, by turning it left you would have tightened it further, and you would need to turn it in the opposite direction. Just a thought: perhaps other forum members can verify this?
Stefano


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

I noticed the yellow paint marks too and figured those are factory markings since they were also on the camshaft sprockets. The markings were not aligned on the crankshaft bolt when I started, the bolt did not move at all and I don't think it's a left thread since neither the factory manual nor the Blauparts instructions mention it. I guess the safest way to get that bolt loose would be to move the lock carrier out of the way and use an impact gun on the bolt. I don't really want to disconnect the condenser hoses so I decided today that I'll just chance it and will leave the seal alone for now. I did take plenty of photos and notes so if I have to do it again in a couple of years I'll be a lot faster


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

I'm sure those crank bolts are super tight. I had to remove one of of my Mercedes and a 2 ft bar is not going to cut it. It was torqued to 200 NM or 147 ft lbs and then stretched to an angledof 90º. I used a 2 ft breaker bar extended another foot and a half with a jack handle. The deflection on the bar looked pretty scarry. When it finally broke free, I thought I broke the bar. Easy strong pressure breaks it free. Some people use air impact guns and still can't get it off. I'm sure the Phaeton crank bolt is torqued pretty high also. Patience and a good position when applying force will get it off. Some people brace the breaker bar against something like the floor and bump the starter. I never liked that idea. My friend who was a Mercedes tech did that all the time. Maybe you can contact C.G. for some tips. Btw, verify if you need to replace the bolt.

Damon

Edit:

Alldata says:
"Center Bolt To Crankshaft 1) 200 Nm + 180 degrees (148 ft. lbs. + 180 degrees) 2) Cover To Cylinder Head 10 Nm (7 ft. lbs.) 1) Always replace center bolt. 2) Turning in two stages of 90 degrees is also permissible"

I'll check VW documentation in a few. 
Damon


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

Crankshaft seal installation from VW documentation:

Unscrew the central bolt of toothed belt crankshaft sprocket and remove the sprocket from the end of the crankshaft.

Then, pull out the seal using pulling hook -T20143/1
Remove thrust collar from end of crankshaft and mark thrust collar on its face with a waterproof felt pen. 

Installing seal:
Before installing, remove oil remains from end of crankshaft and thrust collar with a clean cloth. Press in new seal up to stop using pressure piece -T40007-. Turn the thrust collar and press it onto the end of the crankshaft so that the marked surface faces the engine. 

Install toothed belt crankshaft sprocket, using a new central bolt. Torque specification: 200 Nm + 1/2 (180°) additional turn.

So it does say to replace crankshaft bolt. T40007 is a seal installation tool. It presses in the new seal to a specified depth. When removing the old seal, be careful not to scratch the crankshaft or the surfaces that meet the seal.

Damon


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

dlouie said:


> I'm sure those crank bolts are super tight. I had to remove one of of my Mercedes and a 2 ft bar is not going to cut it. It was torqued to 200 NM or 147 ft lbs and then stretched to an angledof 90º. I used a 2 ft breaker bar extended another foot and a half with a jack handle. The deflection on the bar looked pretty scarry. When it finally broke free, I thought I broke the bar. Easy strong pressure breaks it free. Some people use air impact guns and still can't get it off. I'm sure the Phaeton crank bolt is torqued pretty high also. Patience and a good position when applying force will get it off. Some people brace the breaker bar against something like the floor and bump the starter. I never liked that idea. My friend who was a Mercedes tech did that all the time. Maybe you can contact C.G. for some tips. Btw, verify if you need to replace the bolt.


Thanks Damon, I also read the Bentley manual and was aware of the 200Nm plus 180 turn which is why I decided to leave this alone for now. If I end up having to replace the seal in the future I'll know which tools to get and be better prepared. Btw, I talked to a coworker at work today who's a TDI guy and a stationary cogeneration engine mechanic by trade and he also mentioned using the starter to bump the bolt loose ... I would not feel comfortable with that though. 



dlouie said:


> So it does say to replace crankshaft bolt.


One more reason why I didn't want to deal with this right now.

Btw, just finished putting the timing belt back on and setting the tension per the manual. Tomorrow I'll turn it over by hand and hopefully it will turn freely.


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## Motorista (Oct 28, 2005)

Thank you Damon, very interesting about the additional half-turn: that explains the misalignment of the two factory paint marks, and also the need to replace the bolt. If I recall correctly from an old post by Michael, in these cases the bolt is designed to stretch slightly, as a result of whcih it can only be used once (at least that's the idea, though I'm sure I'm not using the right technical terms, sorry Michael!)
Stefano


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