# Need a bit of help!!! Error Message - Exhaust Workshop



## Realist42 (May 14, 2006)

Hi all,

On the way home today from work I got the following error message:









http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab17/realist42/20120329_193034-1.jpg

Has anyone seen this before on a 3.0TDI?

What is it? 

...and is the car drivable?

Don't have a VCDS, so I can't get any more info at the mo.

Any help would be appreciated.

Should state that there is not real appreciable loss of power, and it has been intermittent

Regards,

Johan


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## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

Bugger. Can only offer sympathy really...

Particulate filter clogged? There's a scary thread on here about how to burn it clean... but again needs VAG-COM....

Good luck.

M


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## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

Hi,

does the 07, 3.0TDi Phaeton have a DPF?

Stu


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## Realist42 (May 14, 2006)

EnglishPhaeton said:


> Hi,
> 
> does the 07, 3.0TDi Phaeton have a DPF?
> 
> Stu


Yes it does... All the 3.0 TDI have one as far as I know.

Regards,

Johan


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## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

Realist42 said:


> Yes it does... All the 3.0 TDI have one as far as I know.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Johan


Johan,

I thought it was introduced from 2008? But then I don't have one. If, as I suspect, yours doesn't have DPF it could be a Lambda Sensor, a faulty catalytic converter or a clogged EGR. Having seen the state mine were in you might just be lucky! 
Fingers crossed!

Stu


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## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

EnglishPhaeton said:


> Johan,
> 
> I thought it was introduced from 2008? But then I don't have one. If, as I suspect, yours doesn't have DPF it could be a Lambda Sensor, a faulty catalytic converter or a clogged EGR. Having seen the state mine were in you might just be lucky!
> Fingers crossed!
> ...


Johan,

I stand corrected just Googled the introduction date for the DPF 

Stu


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## Realist42 (May 14, 2006)

*When it rains...*

...just to really impress me, the pad warning light came on within 2 minutes of this fault... 

Sometimes you just can't win!

Regards,

Johan


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## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

Maybe it's time to replace the LH battery!


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## Realist42 (May 14, 2006)

n968412L said:


> Maybe it's time to replace the LH battery!


Well, we did that about a month ago... So that should not be the issue I hope (still, can't rule it out)

Regards,

Johan


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## churchy (Sep 9, 2008)

Johan,

I have had this warning in the past and as far as I can remember, and I am sure I read this somewhere, that you need to drive at 50mph for a period of time (10 – 15 mins at a guess) or am I getting this procedure confused with another problem? Anyway the fault went away without any expensive work being carried out.

Regards,
Barry.


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## perfrej (Dec 24, 2009)

*DPF*

I believe the particle filter clogged condition is indicated by a light of its own, so this must be something else. I'll e-mail my tech guy and check...

/per


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## perfrej (Dec 24, 2009)

*That was quick!*

OK, he replied at once:


Hallå där! Partikelfiltret, om det är fullt tänds en annan lampa, men detta kan vara många olika fel, statistiskt brukar det vara differenstrycks givare eller drallspjäll höger eller vänster på insuget(V6 diesel)

jb


Translation:

The particle filter, if it is full another light is lit, but this can be one of many different faults. Statistically, it is usually the differential pressure sensor or the left or right air damper of the manifold.

End translation

Doesn't sound expensive to me!

/per


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## Realist42 (May 14, 2006)

perfrej said:


> OK, he replied at once:
> 
> 
> Hallå där! Partikelfiltret, om det är fullt tänds en annan lampa, men detta kan vara många olika fel, statistiskt brukar det vara differenstrycks givare eller drallspjäll höger eller vänster på insuget(V6 diesel)
> ...


Hi Per,
Thanks for the pointer, will forward the information

Regards,

Johan


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## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

Realist42 said:


> Well, we did that about a month ago... So that should not be the issue I hope (still, can't rule it out)


Sorry Johan - it's what passes for humour up north. Still... it is a remote possibility... but one I was referring to only in jest knowing your LH battery is all of 5 weeks old.

Hope you get some better news soon.

Regards

Mike


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## Realist42 (May 14, 2006)

The car is now at the dealer, car circus all around, suspicions are along what Per posted, the differential pressure sensor. Won't know until Monday now, should not be too bad I hope... It is the first thing wrong with that car in 5 1/2 years... So I am not holding it against it, and the pads are the originals, so 55k miles is not bad for a set of pads in my book. In my old BMW, it got 2nd set of pads and new rotors at 55k.

Thanks for all the advice and support.

Regards,

Johan


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## perfrej (Dec 24, 2009)

Still on the original pads after 110000 km


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## Realist42 (May 14, 2006)

perfrej said:


> OK, he replied at once:
> 
> 
> Hallå där! Partikelfiltret, om det är fullt tänds en annan lampa, men detta kan vara många olika fel, statistiskt brukar det vara differenstrycks givare eller drallspjäll höger eller vänster på insuget(V6 diesel)
> ...


Hi,
Well Per, you were spot on, it was the differential pressure sensor that had failed. All fixed now.
The only issue was the price of the part, all in all not too bad, but it still cost almost £190 just for the sensor alone.

Thanks for all the help!

Regards,
Johan


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## Rayston (Mar 31, 2012)

Greetings Johan,

I had the same problem intermittently almost from new. Unfortunately, I assumed it was DPF problem owing to short runs and found that a good high-speed run cleared it. When it happened again I looked more closely and found it wasn't DPF but probably Lambda sensor problems. A couple of years later I found that the high speed run no longer cleared it and decided to have it checked. My local techie ran a diagnostic and found two problems:-

1 06480 P1950 001 Radiator fan V7 difficulty of movement/blocked intermittent

2. 01137 P0471 001 Exhaust Pressure sensor "A" Range/Performance intermittent

Had both replaced at a total cost of £1235 including the diagnostic & VAT and haven't had a problem since, even with short urban running. Don't see why these would fail after probably 10k miles; Lambda sensors are supposed to be good for 100k and the fan shouldn't fail... period! Unfortunately with 46k on the clock VW wouldn't contribute but as this is the first significant bill in 6 years, I guess I can't complain.

Hope this helps with your problem.

Regards

Ray


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## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

Got the yellow picture of the engine tonight- on the V6 TDI

Did about 6 miles - just got the engine almost fully warm. Stopped for 5 mins. When I got back in and set off, noticed it straight away. Tried the reboot trick. ie stopped again and cycled the ignition. Still had the depressing engine icon.

Handbook says it's exhaust gasses. Drive slow and get it checked at a dealer.

I drove slow and then scanned it:

1 Fault Found:
008213 - Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 1) 
P2015 - 001 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 10100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 82171 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2013.04.18
Time: 15:57:32

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Voltage: 11.17 V
Lambda: 0.0 %
Lambda: 0.0 %
Voltage: 0.540 V

Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0 

Reset all fault codes. It's now gone away. Did another six miles and it's still gone away. Am I now on borrowed time??

Any advice gratefully considered.

Thanks

M


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## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Hi Mike,
Try to lubricate with silicon grease the actuator ball head linkages on both cylinder banks. It might well be that the fault showed up because the actuator got stuck. Both lambda figures are 0%, one should be the actual actuator position and the other one the actuator requested position.
At idle my phaeton shows at bank 1 94.5% for the requested postion and 93.8% actual position, there is a tolerance of +-2%. Bear in mind that my engine code is CARA so if your is different, the figures may vary.
Cheers.

Gabriel


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## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

Could be very well the intake manifold, the plastic inlet with butterfly swirl flaps.... A very common problem causing this faults as all is plastic and wear out ( on 3.0 V6 TDI). 

Look here; 

http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=hL4VwMKO0Pg&desktop_uri=/watch?v=hL4VwMKO0Pg 

Lubricating the ball head linkages with silicon spray as Gabrial mentioned might help on a short term however one day a expensive repair is approaching for both banks.. Sorry. 

Cheers, Wouter


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## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

Happened again tonight. Seems to do it on restart with a hot engine.

Reset the codes... but the exhaust pressure error now won't reset.

Also -I have looked quite hard to see where to rub silicone on my balls - but I can't even find my balls. Those of you who know me will not be surprised....

Anyone got any advice on how to find the ball joints on the inlet manifold flap actuators on this engine? And yes... I did think to take the engine cover off....

Regards

M

Control Module Part Number: 3D0 907 401 F HW: 3D0 907 401 D
Component and/or Version: 3.0TDI EDC17G100AG 0010
Software Coding: 0406002C190F0160
Work Shop Code: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 2240E403FE5C8208178
2 Faults Found:

008213 - Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 1) 
P2015 - 001 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 82723 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2013.05.25
Time: 16:43:59

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 147 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Voltage: 10.64 V
Lambda: 0.0 %
Lambda: 0.0 %
Voltage: 0.540 V

001139 - Exhaust Pressure Sensor 1 (G450) 
P0473 - 001 - Signal too High - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 82794 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2013.05.30
Time: 07:21:36

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1197 /min
Speed: 31.4 km/h
Pressure: 794 mbar
(no units): 3264.0
(no units): 108.1


Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0


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## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Hi Mike,
Let me illustrate you where to look for your balls with some fine pictures...



















I hope it helps!!!

Gabriel


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## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

Gabs08PHTN said:


> Hi Mike,
> Let me illustrate you where to look for your balls with some fine pictures...
> 
> 
> ...


 Well- I can see your balls... I was looking for mine on the wrong side of my actuator... I'll look again at the weekend. I need to get my vaseline out anyway to follow your advice with my reservoir rim.
thanks very much.

M


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## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Your balls, my balls, your actuator, vaseline...
I think this thread is getting a bit out of due course Mike 

Gabriel


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## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

Gabs08PHTN said:


> Your balls, my balls, your actuator, vaseline...
> I think this thread is getting a bit out of due course Mike
> 
> Gabriel


Oh? Never crossed my mind!

Regards

M


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## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

well.. engine light has come back on... and the only error is this one:

001139 - Exhaust Pressure Sensor 1 (G450)
P0473 - 001 - Signal too High - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 82794 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2013.05.30
Time: 07:21:36

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1197 /min
Speed: 31.4 km/h
Pressure: 794 mbar
(no units): 3264.0
(no units): 108.1


Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0

So maybe it's the differential sensor that started this thread. Any ideas how long I can drive it with this error?

Thanks

M


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## ddantes (May 14, 2012)

Hi Mike,
It seems that you have 2 problems... pressure sensor and intake manifolds. 
I had the same problem with the intake manifolds and i can tell you that you have to repair it or change them completly. This is the only problem in a V6 3.0 tdi vag engine, no matter the brand (VW, Audi, etc)
The linkage arms are made from plastic and they are worn out. Luckly there is a repair kit with code 059 198 212 that costs around 12euros each. This will refresh the linkage arms as they were new.
But, there are also some bearings in the lower part of the intake manifold. If those are worn out also, then you have to either recondition them by replacing the bearings or buy the whole intake manifold, that will in time take you to the same problem.

There are on the market some reconditioned intake manifolds, with strenghten bearings and linkage arms, but i only know it for Romania. I think there are some also on ebay...but i don't know.

Look the pics below for a worn out intake manifold and the official repair kit for linkage arms.


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## Realist42 (May 14, 2006)

n968412L said:


> well.. engine light has come back on... and the only error is this one:
> 
> 001139 - Exhaust Pressure Sensor 1 (G450)
> P0473 - 001 - Signal too High - MIL ON
> ...


Hi Mike,

It is not recommended to drive much at all with this fault as the car does not know when to regenerate the cat. So it just doesn't do it at all. Could lead to all sorts of fun down the line.

Cost about £500 to do on mine. (VW labour rates)

Regards,

Johan


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## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

Thanks guys. Got an exciting appointment with VW next Wednesday to sort this out... if I don't sell it first....

I'm sure I'll feel better when it's mended... but not delirious right now....

Regards

M


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## Realist42 (May 14, 2006)

n968412L said:


> Thanks guys. Got an exciting appointment with VW next Wednesday to sort this out... if I don't sell it first....
> 
> I'm sure I'll feel better when it's mended... but not delirious right now....
> 
> ...


I was the same, felt much better once it got fixed and it started working properly again. It took a little while until the cat got properly regenerated by the car. (my driving pattern did not have a long run at 60+mph for 20 mins, lots of stop start (at roundabouts). Feels really good now. Albeit I need to do my drop links, rear pads and discs are getting close and I do have some corrosion on the powers steering pipe... and a small bubble of door blade corrosion (galvanic) 

Getting of for 7 years, and only few of them in a garage, still not bad in my book. 

Regards,

Johan


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## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

Thanks Johan. This is really odd. Moved the car this evening just to clean it an photograph it in case I do have a brainstorm and decide to sell it... and the CEL light was OFF. I didn't reset it last night... after messing around with it I left it... so I really didn't expect it to have reset itself....

I'll scan it later and see what's standing.

Regards

M


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## Realist42 (May 14, 2006)

n968412L said:


> Thanks Johan. This is really odd. Moved the car this evening just to clean it an photograph it in case I do have a brainstorm and decide to sell it... and the CEL light was OFF. I didn't reset it last night... after messing around with it I left it... so I really didn't expect it to have reset itself....
> 
> I'll scan it later and see what's standing.
> 
> ...


Most odd, but mirrors what I had as it would get better for a bit then worse, and if left it would sometimes cure itself for a bit - sadly no long term solution as the car gets really cross about not knowing how much resistance there is in the cat. (and it does seem to back off on power and torque when the MIL is on for this, certainly felt like it anyway) 

I also have an ailing exhaust gas temp sensor, it is failing in the low temp range. Can't be bothered to do much about as I think the car is just plain wrong and the design is stupid. What is the issue with a sensor that operates in the 200 degrees area failing to get to 20 degrees C - really?!! (deep breath)

Sometimes its get stuck at 70-80 degrees when the engine cools down and the car gets cross on startup as it should see ambient but reads 70 odd degrees. Once it is up and running again and all the temperatures are at operating level it seems to be fine in terms of reported values. This issue was overlapping with the pressure sensor and did cause some confusion at first. 

Regards,

Johan


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## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

Fault still standing - but light not lit.... odd!

Address 01: Engine (CAR) Labels: None
Part No SW: 3D0 907 401 F HW: 3D0 907 401 D
Component: 3.0TDI EDC17G100AG 0010 
Revision: --H01--- Serial number: VWX3Z0H1742371
Coding: 0406002C190F0160
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 2240E403FE5C8208178

1 Fault Found:
001139 - Exhaust Pressure Sensor 1 (G450) 
P0473 - 001 - Signal too High - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 82844 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2013.05.30
Time: 21:44:01

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 798 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Pressure: 794 mbar
(no units): 3266.0
(no units): 42.3

Readiness: 0 0 0 0 0


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## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Hi Mike,
With vcds look for the figure of engine measuring block 102.3. That is the DPF differential pressure sensor reading. Mine at iddle with a warm engine shows 13mbar. Give it a go at different engine revs and write the figures down, then if you want I will reproduce your tests so that we can compare the results.
Cheers.

GAbriel


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## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

Thanks Gabriel - will try and make time over the weekend if I'm not enjoying myself too much with the vaseline.


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## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

You naughty boy!!! Behave yourself!!!


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## Realist42 (May 14, 2006)

Gabs08PHTN said:


> Hi Mike,
> With vcds look for the figure of engine measuring block 102.3. That is the DPF differential pressure sensor reading. Mine at iddle with a warm engine shows 13mbar. Give it a go at different engine revs and write the figures down, then if you want I will reproduce your tests so that we can compare the results.
> Cheers.
> 
> GAbriel


Hi, from I saw when mine failed, the failure scenario is one where it is fine one moment and then up the spout the next. With that it also seems to get progressively worse, i.e. showing bad data more often and eventually only showing bad data. 

Still, getting comparative data is always interesting.

Regards,

J.


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## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

Thanks Johan.

do you know what's involved in changing the sensor? any chance it's a DIY job?


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## Realist42 (May 14, 2006)

n968412L said:


> Thanks Johan.
> 
> do you know what's involved in changing the sensor? any chance it's a DIY job?


Hi Mike,

It might well be easy enough, it is only a sensor that sits with pipe on either side if the DPF. The part was the expensive part, labour was about an hour. I think that the part was something like £350+ VW prices. Finding that part on the open market will make it cheaper I bet, but can you find it?

I will look for the repair invoice to see if I can find the part number, but the sensor is called the G450. Googleing the G450 gives loads of hits, but the price I paid is vastly more than for the smaller engines seems to cost, it could be the same, but gut feel says no. (hope I am wrong - which means I was stiffed - ahh well)

Good luck

Regards,

Johan


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## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

Thanks Johan... some interesting hits from googling - I now know what it looks like (if not where it is..). Downloaded the self study guide from somewhere about DPF etc. Can't find the host page again... but if anyone wants the guide, PM me and I'll email it to you.

Regards

M


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## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

Went for a run, logging the pressures. Idle is 6mbar
After about a minute of a bit of a hill climb, the value locked at 94mbar- and hasn't moved since. Abscissa is seconds, ordinate is mbar. 

Suspect this is not reality!


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## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Hi Mike,
It is interesting to see that the peak figure is almost 800mbar, and 794mbar is what triggered the fault. I will check if I have a usb cable long enough to put my laptop on the passengers seat and if so I will go for a test run too.
Cheers.

GAbriel


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## Realist42 (May 14, 2006)

Hi Mike, 

Well, got it the wrong way around, the part about £135+ 

The part no appears to be 3D0131552E, which looks like the whole assembly with the sensor and ancillary gubbins. 

On my car they spent along time faultfinding, as it could have been a DPF fault rather than a sensor fault it was argued at the time. (3.8hrs)

Hope it helps

Regards,

Johan


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## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

Realist42 said:


> The part no appears to be 3D0131552E, which looks like the whole assembly with the sensor and ancillary gubbins.


That looks right. Found this from the part number above. Think it's the whole shooting match.. which I don't need:



The transducer looks to be part 16. Can't see it in the engine bay. Looks like it's piped to the box (part 11 - is that the DPF?) so that it will be nearer the front... but not spotted it yet.

Not yet feeling I'll DIY it.... 

M


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## jkuisma (Nov 23, 2009)

> The part no appears to be 3D0131552E, which looks like the whole assembly with the sensor and ancillary gubbins.


Yep. The VW service manual says to replace the sensor with the Phaeton specific part, which comes with pretty long piping to the sensor and a hefty price tag. Yet the sensor itself is a very common part (the part number which is not 3D0... is printed on it), and can be replaced without replacing the piping. The piping "should be replaced as it is pressure tested at the factory" or something. Geesh.

I had only the sensor replaced in my car. The sensor has VW part number 07Z906051A and I paid a whopping 25 euros for a part dismantled from an Audi A5 with 1000km on the odo. Getting at the sensor was really tough. You need to work on a lift from underside of the car. My trusted mechanic sweated about 45 minutes to replace it.

Anyway, this part is a common item to fail and no need to worry, just have it replaced one way or another. In my experience, it is also perfectly normal that the exhaust workshop error comes and goes. This gradually gets worse and then it is the time to do the sensor.

Jouko


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## Realist42 (May 14, 2006)

jkuisma said:


> ...Anyway, this part is a common item to fail and no need to worry, just have it replaced one way or another. In my experience, it is also perfectly normal that the exhaust workshop error comes and goes. This gradually gets worse and then it is the time to do the sensor...


That is what I did, and when it stopped going away, I had it changed. I now know better, ad if it happens again I will one change the sensor itself...

Regards,

Johan


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## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Right! Here is my log: RPM vs. DPF pressure. 
We are getting as good with our logs as F1 telemetry . Don't you think so Mike? 
Next time we can log a full lap at Snetterton :thumbup: !!!









You can see that the highest DPF pressure figure is about 300mbar and that is a 3500rpm. So obviously there is something wrong with your differential pressure sensor.
Cheers.

Gabriel


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## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

Sensor £49; labour £190. Not trivial.. not too painful... and with a guarantee. Which I expect to be pretty much no-quibble!

But from where it's located I still don't think it's DIY for me.

Regards

M


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## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Hi Mike,
How did you get on with the vaseline and the cooling fluid reservoir? And what about your actuator balls , did you have a chance to lubricate them with silicone oil?
Give us an update, would you?

Gabriel


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## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

Well... as VW dealer have had the car for 3 days investigating this and other things... I decided to just leave it for a few days. VW dealer cannot find anything wrong. 

Last weekend I did locate the ball joints for the inlet manifold flaps - and lubricated them with silicon spray. No errors related to that since... but that's not really a clean bill of health 

Differential pressure sensor changed... 

VW dealer also failed to even agree that the auxiliary heater was faulty... 

AC regassed... but they said there's no leak... even though the gas has come out twice in 12 months.... 

I suspect there's a saga brewing here... 

Yes - I will keep you posted. 

Regards 

M


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## ddantes (May 14, 2012)

Hi Mike, 
Regarding the AC... i had a similar problem that was solved by cleaning the radiators, especially between them... You cannot do it unless you remove them, or at least the a/c radiator, and clean between them. 
I had a lot of dirt and after the operation it's perfect and i'm enjoying the full power of the ac system. 

The ideea is that there is not enough cooling capacity, and the pressure is rising until the overpressure valve will open and will loose some refrigerant.. it will loose until there is not enough and the compressor will not switch on, or if it switches on, it will switch off shortly. 
The pressure of the refrigerant must not be over 20bars. When switched on, depeding on how hot it is outside, it is between 12 up to 20 bars. Over 20, it means there is a problem...at 24 or 25 you will start to loose refrigerant. 
Good luck.


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## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

ddantes said:


> Hi Mike,
> Regarding the AC... i had a similar problem that was solved by cleaning the radiators, especially between them... You cannot do it unless you remove them, or at least the a/c radiator, and clean between them.
> I had a lot of dirt and after the operation it's perfect and i'm enjoying the full power of the ac system.


 That is very interesting... I'll certainly look into it. I think the radiators look fairly clean - very benign GB climate... but I'll check it out. It certainly fits the symptoms. 

Thanks very much. 

Regards 

Mike


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## stefanuk (Jul 7, 2010)

Hi, 

Just to add a little extra complication to this thread regarding the A/C. 

I had my waterpump replaced a couple of weeks ago and prior to it being replaced the HVAC generally didn't seem to be running as effectivley, eg not cooling as efficiently, very little, if any, output from rear vents. I'd run a scan but this showed nothing. 
However now that the waterpumps been replaced the HVAC is back to how it used to be, blasting cold air when needed, the rear vents now fully functioning again. 

Stefan


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## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Hi Stefan,
The water pump that you had replaced, was it the engine water pump or the HVAC system water pump?

Gabriel


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## stefanuk (Jul 7, 2010)

Hi Gabriel,, 
It was for the engine water pump. 

Regards, 
Stefan


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