# Turbo Support Bracket Removal on a Quattro



## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

Is it possible to remove these bitches on a Quattro? 

I can't see the head on the bolt because it's wedged between the block and tranny. 

It really doesn't feel like there's enough to space to back any bolts out before hitting the transmission... 

has anyone had to replace these before?


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Yup, came out when I swapped my K04 for for a hybrid. It's tight but you can do it (that's what she said )


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

do you remember what type of bolts hold it in? 

is it a conventional bolt that I can get at from the side?

thank BTW


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Krissrock said:


> do you remember what type of bolts hold it in?
> 
> is it a conventional bolt that I can get at from the side?
> 
> thank BTW


Mine was a hex, and you can get at it from the side coming in from the top, but if I remember... attacking from below was actually a bit easier. These were key to getting it from the side because like you mentioned, there isn't much room to get a wrench back there.


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

yikes... ok, i'll see what I can see from the bottom

thanks again


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Boulderhead said:


> Yup, came out when I swapped my K04 for for a hybrid. It's tight but you can do it (that's what she said )
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Why did it have to come out Tony? I'm on my 3rd turbo pull and never had to remove it. Hopefully you had it go back in as it is a very important piece for the longevity of the manifold/turbo.


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Why did it have to come out Tony? I'm on my 3rd turbo pull and never had to remove it. Hopefully you had it go back in as it is a very important piece for the longevity of the manifold/turbo.


Hey Max, in hindsight it didn't have to come out. This was a 2 AM decision when I was trying to get the original turbo out and things were in my way  It went back in before I dropped the new snail in place.

Side note, I'm sending your MAF sensor / housing combo this week. Been sitting on work bench forever and always forget it when I leave the house


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Boulderhead said:


> Hey Max, in hindsight it didn't have to come out. This was a 2 AM decision when I was trying to get the original turbo out and things were in my way  It went back in before I dropped the new snail in place.
> 
> Side note, I'm sending your MAF sensor / housing combo this week. Been sitting on work bench forever and always forget it when I leave the house
> 
> ...


Gotcha! No rush on the MAF, it's just a testing tool to me. I don't even have a TIP attached to the turbo anymore, so I just use it for testing and/or when the car need to pass inspection. :beer:


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

aaahhhhh no way. This can't be removed without the transmission being unbolted or something...

I can see the bolts from the bottom, the transmission is simply too close, that the angle to get into the head is way too sharp. Even with those ball end allens... 

The bolt is only 5-10 mm's away from the tranny...so I don't see how there's even enough room to back out the bolt...even I could loosen it.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Yeah, it's tight between the block and angle drive. Remove the passenger side axle, loosen the rear drive shaft, and remove the angle drive (4 bolts into the trans) after you drain all the fluid.


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

shiiiiiiiiiit 

that's exactly the kinda stuff I don't want to do. 
The transmission stuff is the one thing i'm too scared to F with. 

ok, here's the situation, the bolt side of the support bracket broke when I was loosening the bolt recently. The two arms surround the bottom of the turbo, the side with the welded bolt just snapped off. 
I can technically still bolt the turbo to the support,... but there'd be one arm instead of two... 















I assume most the "support" comes from the body of the bracket with the "U" like shape...But again, I guess with 1 securing point rather than two, it would allow for more twisting (if there could be)


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

There's really nothing you can mess up by removing the angle drive as long as the orings don't get pinched and you don't get dirt inside the trans or angle drive.


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

so i'm lookin at something like this? 





























The four bolts holding this on? Along with the axel bolts?


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Yeah, the four socket head cap screws holding the angle drive to the bell housing. I forgot, you'll either need a LONG 6mm hex or a 1/4" drive 6mm hex with 1/4" extensions to get the passenger side axle cup out.


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

ok, I can handle the axel and the bolts mounting the angle drive. 

But how do you loosen the drive shaft? 

THanks again 20V


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Krissrock said:


> ok, I can handle the axel and the bolts mounting the angle drive.
> 
> But how do you loosen the drive shaft?
> 
> THanks again 20V


It's just three bolts that hold it to the output flange of the angle drive. I want to say they were 11mm 12pt heads, but could be wrong. It's tight to get at them though.


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

OK 20V, 
just confirm before I apply any more pressure to this thing. I've removed the 4 bolts holding the angle drive, and the two bolts in the support bracket that are bolted to the block...as well as the axel bolts. 

there's nothing else right? 

it's not budging so with knuckle power...I think I may need to take a rubber mallet or some kind of lever to get it to the budge...


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

You have to remove the socket head cap screw (bolt) that holds the axle cup to the diff. This is what I meant about the 6mm 1/4" drive hex bit above. You hold the one bolt on the other cup, and break the passenger side loose. This will remove the axle cup, and let the angle drive come off the trans. This is what I use with 1/4" extensions.


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

So the drivers side axel needs to be removed too?


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Krissrock said:


> So the drivers side axel needs to be removed too?


No, but you need to hold that axle/tire/wheel while you break the bolt loose holding the passenger axle cup to the diff.


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

Bro...You're my hero. 

I got a set of 1/4 extenders from harbor freight. THey were actually too long. But I was able to get that bolt out and the AD started coming loose. It was tough to get it off the drive shaft and the shaft that goes into the tranny... At first I was thinking that i'd just leave it and get the Turbo support bolts since I had room... But then I realized that I wouldn't be able to change the seals on the AD without taking it out. Plus I wanted to clean the mating surfaces. I was able to change the bracket and new angle drive seals, and put it back in. 

thank you Sir. :beer::thumbup:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

:beer:


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