# Audi TT intake.



## rafael6996 (Jul 30, 2014)

Hey guys, i was experimenting with my babe today the 2001 audi tt quattro the 180. and i took off the intake box but left the filter in, so what i did the for was to get that blow off valve sound, which holy **** it dumps so hard haha really brings out the turbo. but is it bad to have no cover over the intake? and just the filter? still a nooob on this forum.


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## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

Just get a large cone filter and attach it to the MAF if you want that sound. Running a tune with more boost and an aftermarket DV reallllly helps!


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## [email protected] (Dec 14, 2013)

Ya cheap cone and velocity stack will sound nice and pull air and you can get parts for 50 bucks or so ...nothing fancy


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

But when running an aftermarket intake without the tune for it you will be messing with your engine. Your ECU will automatically try and calibrate for the increased air intake (or so I was told) but you could still go into limp mode from running lean. You will also be idling a lot harder. I recently put the stock intake back in to keep things running normally after using an aftermarket intake for about 3 years (guessing at the number of years). I loved the throaty sound of the intake, but after putting the stock box back on I am much happier with performance and smoothness.


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## [email protected] (Dec 14, 2013)

Makes sense you would think it could adapt for that level of increase but I'm running an apr clone tune and I was flashed before I changed the intake so all I noticed where good affects.

Wile we are topic I love my mad max dv that flutter is like music


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Makes sense you would think it could adapt for that level of increase but I'm running an apr clone tune and I was flashed before I changed the intake so all I noticed where good affects.
> 
> Wile we are topic I love my mad max dv that flutter is like music


I was replying to OP.

Not sure if it's your motor mounts or something else that ultimately reduce engine vibration in the front end and steering column, but I'm guessing either your tune says intake was optional or your mounts/somesortofmount are new thus reducing the rough idle of a (possible) lean engine. Really all depends on what it's tuned for.


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## rafael6996 (Jul 30, 2014)

all aftermarket intakes are bad for the 1.8t? i went to usp the other day and then recommended intake,tune, and downpipe for the best performence increase.


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

rafael6996 said:


> all aftermarket intakes are bad for the 1.8t? i went to usp the other day and then recommended intake,tune, and downpipe for the best performence increase.


No, after market intakes are not bad. Figure out what your intentions for the TT are then hit SEARCH for a vast wealth of information as to how to go about it. Never walk in to a tuner and ask anything, know& learn what you want. Or you will pay dearly.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

chrisc351 said:


> Just get a large cone filter and attach it to the MAF if you want that sound.


Not the greatest idea IMO... simply because this will mess with the accuracy of the MAF readings. The filter needs to be spaced away from the sensor to allow the air stream to be be straightened as much as possible before entering the MAF housing. 



Chuckmeister87 said:


> But when running an aftermarket intake without the tune for it you will be messing with your engine. Your ECU will automatically try and calibrate for the increased air intake (or so I was told) but you could still go into limp mode from running lean. You will also be idling a lot harder. I recently put the stock intake back in to keep things running normally after using an aftermarket intake for about 3 years (guessing at the number of years). I loved the throaty sound of the intake, but after putting the stock box back on I am much happier with performance and smoothness.


:facepalm: Don't even know where to begin with this one Chuck. So, I'll put it simply:

stock system = restrictive 
open cone system with v-stack = improved mass air = improved power

The me7 ECU is a smart one and is more than capable of handling a small bump in airflow from an intake (tune or not). 



rafael6996 said:


> all aftermarket intakes are bad for the 1.8t? i went to usp the other day and then recommended intake,tune, and downpipe for the best performence increase.


Nope, not all aftermarket intake are bad for the 1.8t. A good intake like the 42DD, a DP, and a remapped tune is a good beginner mod path and will serve you well. :beer:


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## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

An intake like the 42dd is well worth it. Its made beautifully and you really can feel in increase in power up top. A cone filter is less than ideal becuause theres no way to attach it properly.. it can even collapse the TIP from flopping around


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## darrenbyrnes (Jan 4, 2005)

I've been running one of these for about 6 years now. They don't sell it any longer, but it's pretty much like the Neuspeed P-Flo.

Works like a charm.


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> :facepalm: Don't even know where to begin with this one Chuck. So, I'll put it simply:
> 
> stock system = restrictive
> open cone system with v-stack = improved mass air = improved power
> ...


Again, the guy has a 180Q. You have a 225 and have drastically altered your car, for the better I might add. Everything you do compliments the other.

Having said that, I did not say that the cone intake would not increase airflow or power. Obviously you get more airflow and everyone knows more air = more power, however, don't you think the engineers at Audi specifically designed the airbox? It looks as though they formed it especially for the engine bay and they had to have restricted it for some reason. Maybe the reason was for noise reduction, I can't say, but even if the ECU is capable (without a tune) to compensate for the increased air it does not necessarily mean that it will still run smoothly. If your car wasn't so beastly you could try it out, but anyone running close to stock can test for you. All mods alter the vehicle, which is why they're called "mods", and some things are best done together.


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

My best guess at why you get more vibration with just an intake is because of restricted flow after the engine. Increasing the DP at the same time would probably eliminate vibration.... but that's a hypothesis I cannot yet test.


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

No shortage of 400 - 550 hp 1.8t & 3.2 running stock air boxes, I know a few who don't care for the noise. Kinda deflates the whole holy grail of air filter B/S. That said, back in 2001 & 02 we all found out with real atw dyno #s how not THAT dreadful a stock box is. Yes I have a nice big intake collection in the basement, biggest scam in the mod world for the minimal, provided any gains. Build a nice engine with the right tune a frikken air filter becomes no great addition one set up over another.


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

TToxic said:


> No shortage of 400 - 550 hp 1.8t & 3.2 running stock air boxes, I know a few who don't care for the noise. Kinda deflates the whole holy grail of air filter B/S. That said, back in 2001 & 02 we all found out with real atw dyno #s how not THAT dreadful a stock box is. Yes I have a nice big intake collection in the basement, biggest scam in the mod world for the minimal, provided any gains. Build a nice engine with the right tune a frikken air filter becomes no great addition one set up over another.


Would you happen to have the numbers still and mods corresponding to each dyno run? opcorn:


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

lol - No that was quite awhile ago. What started the conversation then debate / argument was APR using a stock box with there stage 3. The 180 hp was the engine back then. I had this very set-up on a 02 Jetta 180 1.8t. The air box worked just fine. WAKS TT site still may have some #s on this, he did dyno runs etc. If so you'll see the #s are not that substantial over a stock or modified stock box verse cones, venturi's bells whistles and all the other hype & noise.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Intakes cause vibration and downpipes eliminate the vibration caused by the intakes, ECU's can't compensate for added airflow of an intake, and nothing beats a stock 180hp airbox for a 500hp motor. Wow, you learn something new every day. :screwy:


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

20v master said:


> Intakes cause vibration and downpipes eliminate the vibration caused by the intakes, ECU's can't compensate for added airflow of an intake, and nothing beats a stock 180hp airbox for a 500hp motor. Wow, you learn something new every day. :screwy:


Come on, your very well aware of plenty high HP 1.8t & 3.2 that run a stock box is it the absolute best? No. Point was a efing air filter is not the end all of performance as most swear by. The gotta get a cone mentality or some other contraption. No clue in regard to a 180hp box. The factual truth of the matter is tuners have been installing larger I.D maf's with velocity stacks in stock boxes since the 1.8t & 3.2 hit the scene and with great results. That's all................HPA 3.2 565hp - 500 trq. have a look at what there using.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

TToxic said:


> HPA 3.2 565hp - 500 trq. have a look at what there using.


It makes ZOMG #'s on a stock airbox = it wouldn't make more with a different style of intake = false logic. Works /= best. Especially when dealing with turbo engines, the less restriction the better. Yes, there are many BS intakes out there for "cold air," "heat shields," "vortex generators," etc, but there are also gains to be had over OEM (ie a compromise of many factors) solutions. Now if you just hate the sound level and can live without making the most HP possible, that's fine too.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

I'm baffled by the logic behind the some of the comments in this thread.

We all know that an intake is not going to stop a 1.8t from making 400-500+ HP. It's also not hard, even for the newbies, to realize that bolting a random cone filter to the MAF will not net an incredible amount of power. That's not the argument been made, what we're saying is that doing a well designed (or thought out) intake system is part of the overall inlet (aka breath-in) upgrade path -- and failing to do so, is leaving a restriction or choke-point that will eventually limit how much is ultimately made. 

People often get skeptical about the mods I have done to achieve the power I have. Why? Because others have done the same mods and have not gotten similar results. Is is it chance? Not at all, it's looking at "small things" like the intake as part of a system and leaving no rocks unturned. 

- Why do you use a larger MAF housing to keep flow unrestricted when the gains are also minimal?
- Why do you use a larger high flow intake pipe when the gains are also minimal (TIP)?

The big BECAUSE is that *together*, they compose the inlet (breath-in) system, and doing one without the other is pretty pointless (you're only as efficient as your biggest restriction). The inlet system needs to be seen like the exhaust system. Yes, the cat converter, or the DP, individually might not make much in terms of overall power limit and potential, but as a system, cannot be ignored. 

To each their own, but I don't care what any dyno show from switching a factory box to a cone. Mass airflows gains don't lie, if there is an increase in measured air moved, there is a way to turn that increase into power. The difference will be that not everyone understands how to make that happen! :wave:


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## tedgram (Jul 2, 2005)

Ahmen!!


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

Good grief guys! Iam not exactly on a stock air box campaign far from it, simply throwing it out there nice factual #s can be achieved with a stocker provided that's one's interest.


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

I am in no way saying a cone won't increase power. I am not saying the ECU cannot alter all other controllable aspects to match the increased intake. What I *speculated* was the dramatic vibration in my engine was due to restricted flow through DP caused by larger flow through intake. Don't try to put words in my mouth. I have no numbers or tests to back the DP theory, so it still remains a theory until someone can discredit it through testing. Unless you have tested solutions for increased engine vibration after installing an aftermarket intake please don't mock theory.


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## [email protected] (Dec 14, 2013)

I have never heard one story of rough idle or engine vibration after an cone or increased flow intake


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> I have never heard one story of rough idle or engine vibration after an cone or increased flow intake


What happens sometimes, as mentioned in one of my posts above, is the MAF reading gets inconsistent if the filter is placed right on the housing (a lot of yahoos think that's a good idea).

That's also the reason why there is a flow straightener screen in the housing, it helps straighten the airflow before it goes through the sensor. But, doing the 'cone on a stick' thing without a velocity stack creates too much turbulence for the MAF screen to take care by itself, resulting in rough running conditions. 

As for the general discussion, another thing peple seem to not take into consideration in comparing factory boxes to aftermarket solutions is that not all cone filters are created equal. Some filters could be more restrictive than the OEM flat panel configuration for several reasons: 

1) Pleated count and surface area (basically filter size -- there is reason the 42 DD filter is gigantic, they made sure they had enough pleated count and surface area).

2) The filtering material plays a huge role in how free-flowing filter X is in comparison to filter Y at the same physical size. A foam filter will flow considerably more (at the same size) then and oiled gauze filter (although at the expense of filtration). 

At the end of the day, generalizing aftermarket intakes as if they're one, and making a comparison to the factory system without looking at the variables that are associated with them is kind of stupid. It's like comparing any parts to the original equipment, there is always room for improvement, but some solutions could be worst.


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

Its been proven beyond any doubt. The RIGHT cone on a gutted maf improves flow considerably with out any adverse effects. The right cone straightens the flow.
This is directly on the maf housing install. Is this group which is many all yahoo's? lol


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## [email protected] (Dec 14, 2013)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007Z...200_QL40&qid=1410018790&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1


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## [email protected] (Dec 14, 2013)

I feel bad for the op. Hey buddy above is the intake I have it works great others can chime in here but that should work just fine for you.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

TToxic, I've also seen it proven without any doubt that the wrong cone mounted on a de-screened MAF housing make for turbulent inconsistent mass air reading on the sensor. This begs the question which side of the fence are you? At first it was the OEM box being the all-end-all for performance, now it has morphed into arguing that a cone right on the MAF is or isn't an ideal practice. 

So let's recap for a second:

- stock box = ok and can still support decent power

- well engineered intake = improvement over stock and will allow to reach higher potential

- not so well-designed intake (random cone filter tossed on the MAF) = a gamble that may result in less performance than the stock unit being replaced

Agreed? Or what's your argument against each of the 3 points above that I made throughout the thread? :thumbup:



PS: there is no beef, I'm just trying to get the thread to reach some kind of a consensus and make sense so the uninformed enthusiast that may read it can form their own (somewhat educated) opinion on the topic. :beer:


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

No beef here what so ever, I suppose what I was trying to suggest is. Theirs a myriad of options from stock box to the glorious 42dd which I have and is not coming off any time soon ). Its all relative to the request of the tune employed. A example of this, a buddy of mine has HPA 3.2 one afternoon we experimented with cones what we discovered was zero gains and actually a slightly diminished lower trq.#. Why? because this increased flow was not the request of the tune. Could it be? yes we simply did not have access to programing at this time and didn't want to get into it, the stock box flow still offered 565hp. In regard to the ol cone on a maf, this is unquestionably the biggest taboo out there grabbing any K&N that will fit, as opposed to the right cone directly on the maf with gutting reveals a nice improvement again as long as it works in concert with the tune trims etc. The difference being, the wrong cone on a gutted or otherwise maf will greatly diminish performance regardless of the tune - hence my comment on the bells whistles & contraptions. Lets agree, theirs a ton of placebo rubbish that floods the market regardless of tuning. My only point really is there are many options from the stock box to the 42dd ( which btw I think all others will be judged by for some time) the very reason I suggested the OP to hit search to see what works best for his intensions / goals with his TT. The reality of which is, it could be from stocker - the glorious one. No argument here, constructive conversation yes!...........Perhaps its high time to get this subject matter into a stand alone thread with factual dyno #s and various set ups/ tunes and who is using what & why. This very topic is NEVER going to end. Its 2014 and we still talking about intakes for the most part here in this forum the 1.8t. and the 180 to boot. :laugh::thumbup:


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

My cone is not right on top of the MAF housing. The cone goes on a v-stack and then I even have 3 inches of silicone to connect the v-stack to the MAF. I would think it would give enough room between the filter and MAF for the screen to take effect but I guess not? I mean what's the big different between these two?









vs









You can't tell me there is a large difference between the two so much so that engine vibration increases over a stock intake. All of my mounts are stock and have never been replaced so I'm sure those factor in as well though I can't quite wrap my head around why (at idle) the engine would vibrate more when it should be idling on the same air flow.


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

Never heard of this but, the only thing I can think of would be maybe your cats are still functional but on there way out slightly clogged. And your caught in that window of soon to totally failed cats. Your increasing flow at one end and its not making it out the other at the same rate creating turbulence? Yea its out there but so is what you have going on. Odd one for sure.


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