# My first Project on the Tex. G60 supercharger rebuild.



## vwhead5223 (Feb 20, 2006)

I am not usually one to write much here on the tex but I had some extra time and thought I'd give it a try. I recently bought a used G60 charger from a friend for a couple of bucks. He took it off of his car when he put a Lysholm on his car. He sold the car a year or so ago. When he bought the car it had close to 100,000 miles on it. The charger to the best of his knowledge had 117,000 on it when he put the Lysholm in. I had the time today to take it apart. I have a car that has a charger on it.The one on my C was rebuilt about 10,000 miles ago so this is just for a back up. So I embarked on a project. 

Here is a picture of the charger with the belt cover and the pulley bolt taken off.








Here is the charger with the pulley removed. The pulley cam off without the use of a gear puller.








Taking a picture of the timing mark on the top pulley.








Taking a picture of the lower timing mark. It is hard to see my cell phone picture wasn't the greatest.








Taking a picture ove the numbers stamped on the unit. 








Taking the screws apart from the housing.








Seperating the two halves.








One side apart. 








Getting to the displacer.








Looking at everything so far it looks good. Seals actually look to be in decent shape from what I can tell.








Getting the displacer out. have to take the counter balance out by removing the snap ring.








Displacer out. 








Checking for wear on the othe half. Looks to be good.








Knocked the shaft out. 








Have the shaft out. 








Looks like I might need to polish the main shaft a little better.








I didn't take the small shaft out. I want to do a little research on the rebuild kits. I was basically trying to establish if this unit was suitable for a rebuild. If you guys see anything in the pictures that looks bad let me know. I am not a newbie but I am not an expert either. If you guys have any insite on anything please feel free to post it. Thanks.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: My first Project on the Tex. G60 supercharger rebuild. (vwhead5223)*

Looks good so far, but clean up the displacer than take some close up pics. 
I assume his car was a 91 or 92 as have the later generation charger.
Also, I wouldn't polish the main shaft that much. You are going to have seal grooves, no way around it on a used mainshaft. But, it is more important that the main fits tight in the displacer and other bearings. Polishing too much can open the tolerance slightly.


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## vwhead5223 (Feb 20, 2006)

*Re: My first Project on the Tex. G60 supercharger rebuild. (sdezego)*

The charger was out of a 92. What is the difference? I wasn't going to sand it too much. I was going to use some krokus paper. What should I be looking for on the displacer?
Thanks


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: My first Project on the Tex. G60 supercharger rebuild. (vwhead5223)*

Main difference is the displacer itself that has added supports near the center. It is questionable whether the later gens are actually better, but most usually have less miles








- Look for wear on the displacer surfaces where the Apex strips seal against (case surfaces usually do not wear like the displacer). The lip will indicate how much wear.
- Look for the lead tip grooves for the Apex strips. Look for cracks, wear etc as this is where they usually spit the strip out.
- Look for hairline cracks along the displacer walls and any contact the the displacer may have made with the cases.

From here, it looks like you got a decent charger.


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## LO-vw (Sep 24, 2001)

*FV-QR*

Any way to repair hairline cracks along the displacer walls?


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## vwhead5223 (Feb 20, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (LO-vw)*

From what I've been reading on here KK welds them. Not sure if they weld the cracks you are talking about but that is the only "repairing" I have read about so far. Other than rebuilding and replacing warn parts.


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## vwhead5223 (Feb 20, 2006)

*Re: My first Project on the Tex. G60 supercharger rebuild. (sdezego)*

Thanks sdezego!










_Modified by vwhead5223 at 6:38 PM 3-22-2010_


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (LO-vw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *LO-vw* »_Any way to repair hairline cracks along the displacer walls?

Not really on that one. Not welding anyway.
The tips can be welded, but the problem along the apex groove is that as you add heat, the super thin apex walls will start to melt into the pool and it is very hard to control that. And, even is you can weld, it is almost impossible w/o a lot of money to re-machine the apex groove.
I have a couple of displacers with varying degrees of dismay. When I get some time, I am going to get some proper rods and play around on the Tig. I have the welder to do it, just need to see what is and is not possible.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

That is exactly what you want to find when you open up a G-Lader.
Nice Buy!


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## MrDave (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: My first Project on the Tex. G60 supercharger rebuild. (sdezego)*










On my charger, 3 of 4 of these tips were gone.
Followed this route to fix:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4328813
I still have to replace the bearings and seals before I put it back together.

-Dave


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_ - Look for the lead tip grooves for the Apex strips. Look for cracks, wear etc as this is where they usually spit the strip out.


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## vwhead5223 (Feb 20, 2006)

I plan to take a closer look this weekend. I just haven't had the time latley.


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## GTI1-G60 (Oct 7, 2002)

*Re: (vwhead5223)*

Nice chager to rebuild. From youre photo's nothing wrong.
Mayby the mainshaft has some wear from the seals. 
But now you have to get to the most difficult task, getting the right rebuild goodies.
In Europe only 1 source can be used without problems. http://www.slstuning.de/eng/


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

*Re: (GTI1-G60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GTI1-G60* »_In Europe only 1 source can be used without problems. http://www.slstuning.de/eng/


Not really one source...There's also this:
http://www.bar-tek-tuning.de/


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## GTI1-G60 (Oct 7, 2002)

*Re: (RedYellowWhite)*

I don't have any experiance with there materials. But have no intentions to switch from supplier. 
I use the SLS parts about 8 years. The are the company to deliver the displacer special kits to last with 60mm wheels.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

*Re: (GTI1-G60)*

Mario (from Bartek) and SLS Tuning are probably the two best companies in Europe that specialize in G60 products/service








We have experience/bought two rebuilt kits from Bartek (mine and a friends) and the quality of his products is 10/10 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
We also tried a well-known g-lader rebuilter from the UK (no need to mention names, lol







) and after less than 1000 km the g-lader was in very bad condition inside...


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

And also
http://www.roettele-racing.de/
They kick the crap out of their cars, and they make real power. Real world results speak volumes! Plus who else anywhere in the world is developing an aftermarket replacement displacer? BBM was, but has dropped the project.
I got some parts from M&M tuning (Mike Bohn) in Germany, and I was very happy with the parts I got. They are catering more to the lary ugly American style obnoxious tuning style now (big wheels, dumb tailights, bodykits), but they still do all the G-lader stuff.
Not the first time I've heard bad thing uttered about Jabbasport on the 'tex either.




_Modified by G60 Carat at 8:37 PM 4-4-2010_


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

*Re: (G60 Carat)*


_Quote, originally posted by *G60 Carat* »_Not the first time I've heard bad thing uttered about *Jabbasport * on the 'tex either.
_Modified by G60 Carat at 8:37 PM 4-4-2010_

^^lol, did I mention names???















_Btw, how did you know?_


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## Choppa6 (Jan 9, 2009)

*Re: (RedYellowWhite)*

Mr Dave! I fixed mine the same way!!! All is good and runnin strong!!!


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## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: (Choppa6)*

Good stuff. I have two that will get done this year at one point.


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## IBD12NV (Nov 24, 2000)

*counter weight notch*










Guys,
How did you get the small peace of metal on the main shaft out? It in the pic on the bottom right of the photo and used to hold the counter weight in place.


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## IBD12NV (Nov 24, 2000)

*nevermind*



IBD12NV said:


> Guys,
> How did you get the small peace of metal on the main shaft out? It in the pic on the bottom right of the photo and used to hold the counter weight in place.


disregard Figured it out with some pliers.:banghead:


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## vwhead5223 (Feb 20, 2006)

Snapring pliers work the best. :thumbup::beer:


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## harve6 (Apr 17, 2010)

i can't get the oil seals off so i can get the bearing off. or do you take them off together and with what cause heat is not doing it.


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## G_Lader_91 (Dec 28, 2006)

Aren't G-ladders made of mag any who? You can tig weld mag but its super easy to have porosity (no good) in the welds as you have to run the tungsten supa-close, if not, dragging in the puddle of molten metal....Just saying I'm just a certified welder, no expert

Also, for seals in general, a very fine point scribe is your best friend:thumbup:


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## vwhead5223 (Feb 20, 2006)

I agree a pick or a seal puller tool will work. Heat is only for the bearings. Looks like a regular screw driver with a 90 degree hook at the end. I have not persued the welding of the displacer. mine was in good enough shape not to need any welding. i did talk to a machine shop that my company deals with and he said Mag is difficult to weld. It has a low flash point. it can start on fire and burn. not sure what temp that is or what temp is needed to weld. depends on how close the two temps are. I also know where the welding would be needed it is very thin. most guys are suing J.B. weld epoxy or something like that to fix the fins.


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## harve6 (Apr 17, 2010)

got seals off and bearing  used a allen key to pry them up.


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## vwhead5223 (Feb 20, 2006)

good to hear:beer::thumbup:


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## harve6 (Apr 17, 2010)

replaced apex strips because bearings and oil seals looked good. i installed my charger and i'm not getting boost. i can hear my charger wining (working) but no boost. ideas?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

harve6 said:


> replaced apex strips because bearings and oil seals looked good. i installed my charger and i'm not getting boost. i can hear my charger wining (working) but no boost. ideas?


 Boost leak? How are you testing boost levels?


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## harve6 (Apr 17, 2010)

well from my MFA and it said i had 0 psi and i defiantly feels like 0 psi. could you have a leak that bad that causes 0 boost to go through?
like i checked all the major tubbing ie. intercooler piping and intake manifold piping


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

harve6 said:


> well from my MFA and it said i had 0 psi and i defiantly feels like 0 psi. could you have a leak that bad that causes 0 boost to go through?
> like i checked all the major tubbing ie. intercooler piping and intake manifold piping


 top of IC??? MFA's can be problematic, need to test on actual gauge... are you sure the charger is timed correctly?


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## harve6 (Apr 17, 2010)

do you think timing might be it? because that is possible i had problems getting my two belts back on it may have moved when i was getting them on.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

harve6 said:


> do you think timing might be it? because that is possible i had problems getting my two belts back on it may have moved when i was getting them on.


 could be very possible, and I wouldn't run it again until you are 100% and I hope you aren't revving it past 3500 for it's break in period...


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## vwhead5223 (Feb 20, 2006)

Be sure you hooked everything back up properly too. The silencer on the output of the chargers are notoriuos for leaking. Did you have boost before you rebuilt the charger. I know anothe culprit can be vacuum lines.


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## harve6 (Apr 17, 2010)

no i had no boost so i riped the charger out and i had like 4 apex strips and one was not even in the groves.i noticed my silencer box was broken on the one side where it connects to the other half of the box so i ordered a RSR outlet. I don't think i would be losing all my boost from my silencer box. and no i didn't break it in because i never had any boost at all once i put it in.


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## harve6 (Apr 17, 2010)

found a vaccum leak on mt fpr to my intake manifold. repaired and still no boost felt down by my silencer box and AIR blowing out even at idle. So i ordered an RSR outlet from BBM


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## vwhead5223 (Feb 20, 2006)

I have one they are sweet! :thumbup:


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## Rubbed Radish (May 20, 2010)

any ideas on how to get the woodruff keys out i tried pliers i dont want to get to frisky with it.also the displacer tips are gone as well can anyone repair this with out having them want to rebuild the whole thing


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Rubbed Radish said:


> any ideas on how to get the woodruff keys out i tried pliers i dont want to get to frisky with it.also the displacer tips are gone as well can anyone repair this with out having them want to rebuild the whole thing


 I had to hammer mine out, used a flat chisel and was uber careful. Also, I used JB weld on the scroll ends :thumbup: There are some pics in one of the threads in here of my work, think in a thread IIRC "Kluber Grease, where to apply"


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## vwhead5223 (Feb 20, 2006)

I usually use a pair of dikes or wire cutters to take keys out of shafts. I put the cutting edge closest to the shaft. Then I grip tight a use the cutter to pry up. It won't damage the shaft, might just take some light filing of the key if its real tight when you use this method.


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