# Fuel Distributor Varnished?



## Zoso (Sep 19, 2000)

I just bought a 78 audi fox (B1) with 196K miles and it dies it quickly dies in hot weather and gets about 7 miles in warmish weather. Previous (single owner) owner was meticulous in record keeping and used well known VW shops in town and I believe that they replaced almost everything else except the fuel distributor. 

I need to dig through the records to see exactly what was replaced, but this car is in amazing condition and has had tons of stuff replaced, so I'm inclined to believe the PO. However, does that sound reasonable? I found the units rebuilt online for about $200, but wanted to do some due diligence before throwing $/parts at it. 

PO referred to it as the distributor being varnished. Car has never sat for more than a month ever without being started/moved. 

Thoughts?


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## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

I would tend to believe it is unlikely that any varnish could build up enough to cause it to die if it never really sat for long. Your discription of the problem seems a bit thin. Would it be possible to go into some detail on just what happens. Small details help as does as much information as you can provide. How does it start, hot and cold? Idle quality? Just how does it run when it is running? Dash lights/gauges/idiot lights, what do they do when this happens? Re-start time or troubles? Just take some time and try to notice everything you can about the situation and then spell it all out.


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## Zoso (Sep 19, 2000)

At about 90 degrees outside it starts great and idles fine. After about 10 minutes it would pop every once and awhile and stumbled twice within about 20 minutes.

In about 75 degree weather it started great and drove about 8 miles at mixed speeds before it popped once, then totally cut out several times. That was about 8 am. While running it was great, no symptoms. No idiot lights, car was warming up at a regular rate etc. It had sat overnight prior to this.

Around 3 pm that day at around 100 degrees out it started great, idled fine and as soon as I pulled out onto the street it popped then died about 300 yards down the street. After that it would sometimes start but wouldn't stay running long. Got it to start and with my foot on the accelerator got it out of the intersection then it died again.

Later that night, around 10 pm it started fine, idled well and I drove it into my garage space, around 400 yards. It did pop a couple times.

PO reports that during the winter the problem was a lot less noticeable and the car ran pretty well. Again, the car has been well serviced by well known good mechanics and many parts have already been replaced. I need to pore through the services records to determine exactly what still though.


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## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

By pop I have to assume you mean out the exhaust (rear). If not it could make a difference in the problem. This does not sound to be fuel but rather maybe ignition related. Is this electronic ignition or points? Can you test the coil? This has basic CIS correct?


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## Zoso (Sep 19, 2000)

By pop I meant less than a stumble, but an engine fluctuation/dip that I could feel. It appears to be a precursor to stalling. 

CIS, yes.


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## antichristonwheels (Jun 14, 2001)

does this have a point distributor? If so throw a new condenser at it. If its an electronic distributor, the Hall sender cound be going out.


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## Zoso (Sep 19, 2000)

Points yes. Was digging through the service records and see very regular changing of points, caps and plugs. 

Is a condenser something that could be temperature sensitive? I'm not really familiar with it's function.


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## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

Yes, condensers can react to heat and so can coild when going bad. CIS really has nothing that would be heat sensitive and if there were some varnish it would drag more when cold then when warm. The posibility of the fuel pump going south exists also. They make a racket most times when they start going bad, but it could just die also. Now you have three things to check into, replace the condenser (cost about 2 bucks) and check the points while you're there for pitting, test the ignition coil with a multi-meter (and maybe has a good used one handy just for fun, and have the fuel pressure tested (while the problem is happening would be good).


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## antichristonwheels (Jun 14, 2001)

they get temp sensitive when they are breaking down. The engine will barely run and maybe not even be driveable. The condensor is a capacitor. It is wired in parallel with the primary windings of the ignition coil to form a tank circuit which generates a decaying sine wave each time the points close. Many times points are relaced and the condensor is not. Just go get a new one. I think you will be surprised.


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## Zoso (Sep 19, 2000)

Yeah I haven't seen condenser in the service records, but much of it is part #'s with no descriptions. Seems it's worth a shot considering how cheap they are.


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## antichristonwheels (Jun 14, 2001)

it's nearly a vanilla part. One for an aircooled will work fine.


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## Zoso (Sep 19, 2000)

Napa warehouse happened to have the correct condenser part, bought it, drove to shop, left keys at home :banghead:.

One week later I remember my keys, install the condenser and start her up. Drove around for about 5 miles, never straying too far from the shop in case I have to push 'er back. It was only about 80 degrees out, but the engine never faltered. 

I let it idle for awhile after I drove around and it was still fine. I want to try it again when it's hotter but I'm hopeful this took care of it. Thanks for the assistance.


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## antichristonwheels (Jun 14, 2001)

:thumbup:


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