# New Guys: Ask The Experts Thread.



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

ok new guys, rather than posting a TON of different threads, please post your questions in here so we can all try to help you out.
be sure to list the following:
year of car, motor type, any modifications you know of. 
issue at hand
your ability to work on cars (be honest on this one)
ok, ask away...........
pic for clicks.............


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## xnology (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

So, what's your question?


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (xnology)*

well, my first one is about corrado stance............


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## xnology (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

Knew it!
Seriously, I like your idea here. Start a sticky with different areas listed ie. suspension, turbos, paint etc..
If you feel like you're somewhat of an expert, add your name to the list under the areas you feel you are knowledgeable in. Somebody needs help on that part and bam you have IM or whatever.
I like it. Needless searches and reposts (of which, I too am guilty) should be held to a minimum.


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## pele (Oct 19, 2000)

if i purchase a mk5 rabbit/gti then purchase some bbs rs/airbags from the vortex classifieds am i automatically a 'vdubber?
i am looking to become a vdubber as soon as possible, please give me advice


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (pele)*

pele, while that did make me LOL, lets keep this one purpose centric.


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## Pushrods (May 14, 2001)

*Re: (pele)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pele* »_if i purchase a mk5 rabbit/gti am i automatically a 'vdubber?
i am looking to become a vdubber as soon as possible, please give me advice


That hurts Rich.


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## pileofredparts (Mar 20, 2009)

*Re: (pele)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pele* »_if i purchase a mk5 rabbit/gti then purchase some bbs rs/airbags from the vortex classifieds am i automatically a 'vdubber?
i am looking to become a vdubber as soon as possible, please give me advice

If they are RS's then yes


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## reignofterror (Dec 31, 2008)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

i like this thread. it should be a sticky.








also - *fixed*.

_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_ok new guys and *super awesome, hot, amazing chicks with corrados*, rather than posting a TON of different threads, please post your questions in here so we can all try to help you out.


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (reignofterror)*

sorry rain-uh.


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## xavierz007 (Oct 29, 2007)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

thx, i feel like a new born asking n00b questions. lol.
been 7 yrs since i last had my g60 and the vr6 i just got feels like an entirely different beast.
'94 slc 
only mod GIAC chip
problem/concern: a/c and high temps
my main concern is... if my car is running too hot, i've done some searching and vr's run in the 220's, i tried to run the ac and the temps were climbing some and i got paranoid and turned it off. what are some normal temps with the ac running? another poster pointed out that the manual states that it should be fine until it hits 300 deg, which seems crazy high.. temps with out ac are coolant around 200-210/oil 230-240/ambient temp 95
thanks again


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (xavierz007)*

not abnormal at all. basically, all corrado's run hot. (water and oil temps)
my suggestion: flush system, new thermostat, water wetter, and an external oil cooler. 
also, try a new oil temp sensor. it is possible it is defective. i had one once that was really hot, and i put a new oil temp sensor and the car showed perfect temps (with boost, in the summer too)
also, i have dropped as much as 20 degrees on oil temp by simply changing the viscosity of oil in the car. since then, i have run mobile 1 synthetic 10w30 in everything i own.


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## Dreizehn (Nov 2, 2005)

*FV-QR*

I've seen some sick threads since 1999 on the vortex and this one, by far, is the best.


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Dreizehn)*

well, we have the opportunity to answer alot of questions without starting eleventeen bagilllion threads. 
it is like the FAQ's, but dynamic, as opposed to static.


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## xavierz007 (Oct 29, 2007)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

awesome, thanks for the help. i figured i'd do all of that and do the billet crack pipe everyone seems so fond of.


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## Dreizehn (Nov 2, 2005)

*FV-QR*

Oh, cool. You mean like DHCP? Yessir.


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Dreizehn)*

aluminum crack pipe is def a good idea.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Hopefully this thread stays up top... If I see another thread asking to see 16 and 17 inch wheels on a corrado im gonna snap
Hell ive been hidding out in the mk1 forum due to this.


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## vdubCorrado (Nov 8, 2001)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_not abnormal at all. basically, all corrado's run hot. (water and oil temps)
my suggestion: flush system, new thermostat, water wetter, and an external oil cooler. 
also, try a new oil temp sensor. it is possible it is defective. i had one once that was really hot, and i put a new oil temp sensor and the car showed perfect temps (with boost, in the summer too)
also, i have dropped as much as 20 degrees on oil temp by simply changing the viscosity of oil in the car. since then, i have run mobile 1 synthetic 10w30 in everything i own. 

as i know people have stated 300 is normal but i had one hit 320 with the AC on a +100deg day and the next day melted 2 pistons... (but it wasn't the only sole contributing factor, it just didnt help)
not to make you paranoid but an external oil cooler placed in front of the radiator and behind either grille of choice (upper or lower) wouldnt kill you either...


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (vdubCorrado)*

indeed, i agree on all accounts.


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## sal16v (Mar 15, 2003)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_not abnormal at all. basically, all corrado's run hot. (water and oil temps)
my suggestion: flush system, new thermostat, water wetter, and an external oil cooler. 
also, try a new oil temp sensor. it is possible it is defective. i had one once that was really hot, and i put a new oil temp sensor and the car showed perfect temps (with boost, in the summer too)
also, i have dropped as much as 20 degrees on oil temp by simply changing the viscosity of oil in the car. since then, i have run mobile 1 synthetic 10w30 in everything i own. 

Also don't forget to change all three coolant temp sensore, both oil pressure switchs and oil temp switch like mike said. This will insure correct readings. And what better time to do all of this other then now. And the parts are not expensive or hard to do!


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (sal16v)*

well said nick. 
ok, who's next:


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_well said nick. 
ok, who's next: 


How do I get stance?


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## dasbeast3.0 (Aug 15, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

good idea mike. hopefully this saves me from staying out of the C forum. i useto look forward to new threads..now i cringe.
and miss. raena... hot chicks are ALWAYS allowed to make new threads. that is the exception. doesnt matter what they ask. as long as they send me a naked pic in a c for proof.







then they have the green light. i guess mcnair can have a pic too..although he is rather fond of rod.


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## VpfinnersW (Jun 14, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (dasbeast3.0)*

alright, my turn. The spoiler is starting to act up; has a tough time going up or down, and gets stuck some times. I know it needs to be opened up and cleaned out, but the really good thread that showed how to do this no longer has pics...
anyone have a good pictorial and detail instructions on how to open up the spoiler internals and clean it out/service it so it works again?


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## omega260 (May 16, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (VpfinnersW)*

Car : 1993 
Issue: Stupid spoiler motor doesnt always work it works when it wants to or we have to push the switch up while "gently" pulling up on the spoiler.
Ability to work on cars: I SUCK with large engines or anytrhing my dad was a grease monkey back in tha day but im not sure if he knows european cars but hes got a general idea of cars.


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## Dreizehn (Nov 2, 2005)

*FV-QR*

McNair, I'm trying to fit a civic intake I stole last night onto my G60. **** just won't fit.


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## VpfinnersW (Jun 14, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (omega260)*


_Quote, originally posted by *omega260* »_Car : 1993 
Issue: Stupid spoiler motor doesnt always work it works when it wants to or we have to push the switch up while "gently" pulling up on the spoiler.
Ability to work on cars: I SUCK with large engines or anytrhing my dad was a grease monkey back in tha day but im not sure if he knows european cars but hes got a general idea of cars.

you should look at my above post, we're asking for the same thing. the motor probably still works, but after many years of dirt getting in the spoiler internals and not getting lubricated from time to time, it has a tough time working properly. The spoiler needs to be opened up, cleaned out, and relubed.
no offense to your dad, but he would be clueless on how to work on the spoiler; it's more of a unique electrical component than a car/engine type thing that he's used to working on. You and your dad would almost be on the same knowledge level when working on the corrado spoiler


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## NeverOEM (Dec 17, 2007)

best place to get new interior parts and clips? Got a few pieces that look ass and a few pieces that just don't stay where they're supposed to.
also, any advice on air ride? (seriously)
92 SLC VR6 12v
I have access to lots of tools, got some good and knowledgeable friends. But the Corrado is a trip for everyone, not too bad at figuring things out though.


_Modified by NeverOEM at 10:33 AM 6-10-2009_


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## kjperry (Sep 22, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (omega260)*


_Quote, originally posted by *omega260* »_Car : 1993 
Issue: Stupid spoiler motor doesnt always work it works when it wants to or we have to push the switch up while "gently" pulling up on the spoiler.
Ability to work on cars: I SUCK with large engines or anytrhing my dad was a grease monkey back in tha day but im not sure if he knows european cars but hes got a general idea of cars.


_Quote, originally posted by *VpfinnersW* »_alright, my turn. The spoiler is starting to act up; has a tough time going up or down, and gets stuck some times. I know it needs to be opened up and cleaned out, but the really good thread that showed how to do this no longer has pics...
anyone have a good pictorial and detail instructions on how to open up the spoiler internals and clean it out/service it so it works again?

I don't have any pictures but I have taken my spoiler assembly apart a couple of times to clean and re-lube. I find the most difficult part of the whole process is getting the damn thing out of the hatch. If you are somewhat mechanically inclined it's an easy job, just take your time and pay attention to how it came apart. If you are afraid you'll forget how to put it back together take pictures along the way.
Here are some tips:
1) The screws for the trim around the arms may be corroded and tough to get out. Do your best not to strip them. I don't recall if they have to come out but it makes it easier to get the assembly back in.








2) The plastic screws on panel on the inside hatch only need a 1/4 turn. If you try to turn them more they will strip and look like poo.
3) The internals are pretty straight forward. Clean all parts and re-lube. I used a water proof marine grease on mine.


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (NeverOEM)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VpfinnersW* »_alright, my turn. The spoiler is starting to act up; has a tough time going up or down, and gets stuck some times. I know it needs to be opened up and cleaned out, but the really good thread that showed how to do this no longer has pics...
anyone have a good pictorial and detail instructions on how to open up the spoiler internals and clean it out/service it so it works again?

*here ya go......
http://www.corradocentral.com/spoilertech.htm
http://www.vwhowto.com/vwhowto...d/63/*

_Quote, originally posted by *omega260* »_Car : 1993 
Issue: Stupid spoiler motor doesnt always work it works when it wants to or we have to push the switch up while "gently" pulling up on the spoiler.
Ability to work on cars: I SUCK with large engines or anytrhing my dad was a grease monkey back in tha day but im not sure if he knows european cars but hes got a general idea of cars.

*see above







*

_Quote, originally posted by *Dreizehn* »_McNair, I'm trying to fit a civic intake I stole last night onto my G60. **** just won't fit.

*Please refer to Tong (skaterasian)'s "smoking alteza tails DIY" vid....
*

_Quote, originally posted by *NeverOEM* »_best place to get new interior parts and clips? Got a few pieces that look ass and a few pieces that just don't stay where they're supposed to.
* http://www.corradoparts.com has lots, and so does http://www.europeanperformance...ge/en*
also, any advice on air ride? (seriously)
*airride is dope, expect to spend in the 2500 dollar range, and talk to dave (BMXRADO) about it, he is the man!!*
92 SLC VR6 12v
I have access to lots of tools, got some good and knowledgeable friends. But the Corrado is a trip for everyone, not too bad at figuring things out though.






_Modified by Noobercorn at 1:55 PM 6-10-2009_


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## NeverOEM (Dec 17, 2007)

appreciate the help good sir, I'll be asking a lot of questions when it comes time for the motor swap I have planned haha.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *NeverOEM* »_appreciate the help good sir, I'll be asking a lot of questions when it comes time for the motor swap I have planned haha.



Also mason-tech makes the airride stuff. 
http://www.mason-tech.com/airrideCW1.asp


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## reignofterror (Dec 31, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (dasbeast3.0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasbeast3.0* »_and miss. raena... hot chicks are ALWAYS allowed to make new threads. that is the exception. doesnt matter what they ask. as long as they send me a naked pic in a c for proof.







then they have the green light. i guess mcnair can have a pic too..although he is rather fond of rod.









BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!! yeah, my strategy for you guys to not know what i look like has its drawbacks. batting your eyelashes anonymously only gets you so far . . once i attend that first big GTG, it's all over. or it all starts . . we'll see.


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (reignofterror)*


_Quote, originally posted by *reignofterror* »_
my strategy for you guys to not know what i look like *FAILED*








fixed


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *reignofterror* »_
once i attend that first big GTG, it's all over. or it all starts . . we'll see.











_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
Im here for the gangbang


FIXED


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## reignofterror (Dec 31, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_







fixed

YEAH BUT YOU TRICKED ME. "mcnair'd" indeed.







the cat will be out of the bag at H20, i'm sure.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *reignofterror* »_
YEAH BUT YOU TRICKED ME. "mcnair'd" indeed.







the cat will be out of the bag at H20, i'm sure.


Your actually goin to H20?? AWESHUM


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## reignofterror (Dec 31, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_Your actually goin to H20?? AWESHUM

well i'll either be living in DC, NY, or boston as of this fall, so i really have no excuse to NOT go. so yes, it shall be my "coming out" event http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

dang, come to think of it, i should probably try to secure some kind of lodging for that weekend. doh.


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (reignofterror)*

i would offer you a room at my place, but last time i did that things got a little awkward.......
so, who else needs stuff? questions? etc...


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## herby53-akaherby53 (Dec 24, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

while part of me thinks this is a great idea the other part is worryed about the search . 
inless people pick there subject title to be within a thread and not the topic they will never find what they are looking for. with so many new guys they wont know to search it that way. 
Where as if there is a million threads they will find what they are looking for and not have to make there own thread. 
good idea but way to hard to keep it on point or clean as it would need to be.


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## 92golfdisaster (Jul 16, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

If the mods could extract and/or link good information from this thread to the Corrado FAQ, it would be great. It seems that if we want less repeat questions then we need a more comprehensive / easy-to-use FAQ.


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (92golfdisaster)*

for starters, i am not suggesting that i am "the expert", more so that we have a lot of good folks in here that know their ****. 
secondly, i have seen SOOOOOO many of the same thread over and over and over again over the last 7 years, that i felt we should have a thread like this. one that the more senior level forum attendees could check every day to help out the new peeps, and/or the old ones with questions. 
i will check it everyday, and maybe be able to help someone. 
when i started in this racket, i WISH there would have been a thread like this. 
as for the search, i agree they need to be used, but most newbs actually don't know what to search for (ie terminology, proper explanation of symptoms, etc) 
so, lets keep this going and see where we end up.


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## herby53-akaherby53 (Dec 24, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

format is most important . i will work something up for cough ... another forum 
i think Mike is even a Mod on that board








either way . great idea and it will help alot of people forsure .


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## skaterazn (Jan 9, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
[
*Please refer to Tong (skaterasian)'s "smoking alteza tails DIY" vid....
*


Spell my name right Noob



_Modified by skaterazn at 12:33 PM 6-10-2009_


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (skaterazn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *skaterazn* »_
Spell my name right Noob

sorry, THONG. feel better now?


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## xnology (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

I think a format like I suggested earlier would work.
Start a thread. Get it stickied. Users IM a mod that they know their $#[email protected] about ... and inform them that they'd be willing to receive IM's from perplexed owners.
Their name is on the list. Someone needs help. They look at the thread, drill down to the area they're looking for help in and viola! You have an expert help line. Pretty simple I would think.


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## omega260 (May 16, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (VpfinnersW)*

cool ill see if my dad feels like cleaning it anytime soon... i probably should have mentioned he has been a contraactor for like ever and has been konwn to do some fine work.... electrical, motors etc.. so he should be able to figure it out quickly plus the guides on the internet should help


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## ryanarchy (Nov 27, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (herby53-akaherby53)*

i got some questions...
If i install a non-abs master and booster and other required parts, will i loose my mpg, and trip, distance, and realted functions in my mfa?
anybody got some aftermarket oil cooler line routing tips when retaining A/C?
Is replacing the apex strips something a skilled and trained person can perform?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *ryanarchy* »_i got some questions...
If i install a non-abs master and booster and other required parts, will i loose my mpg, and trip, distance, and realted functions in my mfa?
anybody got some aftermarket oil cooler line routing tips when retaining A/C?
Is replacing the apex strips something a skilled and trained person can perform?


That will not affect the MFA
Cooler line routing is pretty simple run it infront of the radiator on the driver side
Replacing apex strips is something that can be done by someone skilled and confident, but if there is further damage to the charger like the seats where the strips sit are broken then it will need to be rebuilt professionally.


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## jawxx (Feb 15, 2008)

I'm trying to move my radiator out of the way but there's one plug I'm not sure how to remove. Driver's side, a few inches over from the fan. Here's a pic.








How I do remove that bastard?

Also, I'm noticing that while there are excellent threads for doing timing chains, clutches, removing the trans, that there is JACK (that I can find anyway) on removing all the crap that's in the way of my head gasket job. For example, the aforementioned plug. Another, the fuel rail. I have the bolts off but those injectors are stuck fast and I don't want to break them. And what about that clusterfack of wiring they're connected to. Is there a DIY thread for just one-by-one getting items out of the bay for a Head Gasket/timing chains/coolant flush and fill etc and so on job?
Thanks. Thus far the expert vortexers have been immensely helpful.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

squeeze that bitch like you have a pair. And wiggle it out a little bit. It should come right off.


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## herby53-akaherby53 (Dec 24, 2003)

*Re: (jawxx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jawxx* »_I'm trying to move my radiator out of the way but there's one plug I'm not sure how to remove. Driver's side, a few inches over from the fan. Here's a pic.








How I do remove that bastard?

Also, I'm noticing that while there are excellent threads for doing timing chains, clutches, removing the trans, that there is JACK (that I can find anyway) on removing all the crap that's in the way of my head gasket job. For example, the aforementioned plug. Another, the fuel rail. I have the bolts off but those injectors are stuck fast and I don't want to break them. And what about that clusterfack of wiring they're connected to. Is there a DIY thread for just one-by-one getting items out of the bay for a Head Gasket/timing chains/coolant flush and fill etc and so on job?
Thanks. Thus far the expert vortexers have been immensely helpful.


just pull hard . it will come off . alittle wiggle can help but it will come off . no tricks to it


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## jawxx (Feb 15, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_squeeze that bitch like you have a pair. And wiggle it out a little bit. It should come right off.

LOL. It's a LOT easier when you pull the plug's foreskin back. It's almost exactly like a legacy connection on a hard drive. Rock n roll!


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## 92golfdisaster (Jul 16, 2003)

*Re: (jawxx)*

I like your idea OP, but it would be great if we could find a way to make the info that would be presented in this post more easily accessible to the new forum members. We need to re-invent the existing FAQ. 
Side Note: I have learned allot from this forum over the years and greatly appreciate all of the "experts" out there.


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## jawxx (Feb 15, 2008)

*Re: (92golfdisaster)*

So does anyone have any thread links on general tear down of the front end. As I said, I've gotten to the fuel rails, but not past. And I have a lot more to go. I'm slowly getting coolant hoses and stuff out of the way in the mean time... but I will need to go further into the engine itself.


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## jawxx (Feb 15, 2008)

*Re: (jawxx)*

OR does anyone have a digital Bentley they could email me a copy of or host up on filehosting.org
There's no size limit there.... hook it up!


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## 92golfdisaster (Jul 16, 2003)

*Re: (jawxx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jawxx* »_So does anyone have any thread links on general tear down of the front end. As I said, I've gotten to the fuel rails, but not past. And I have a lot more to go. I'm slowly getting coolant hoses and stuff out of the way in the mean time... but I will need to go further into the engine itself. 

Check PM http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## deviantk2 (May 19, 2004)

*Re: (NeverOEM)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NeverOEM* »_best place to get new interior parts and clips? Got a few pieces that look ass and a few pieces that just don't stay where they're supposed to.


Like Mr. McNair already said - european performance parts is a good place to start. Christian (used to be HeizerVr6 on here) is great to deal with and goes above and beyond trying to find stuff. Email him if it isn't listed on his site. Just be prepared to pay out the butt for some of those stupid clips.


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## ein (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (jawxx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jawxx* »_OR does anyone have a digital Bentley they could email me a copy of or host up on filehosting.org
There's no size limit there.... hook it up!

You should seriously buy the book w/the digital version included. The Bentley is hands down the *MOST* important thing you will ever buy for your Corrado (or any VW for that matter). It sucks that its not cheap but the info in the book will save you tenfold in the long run.


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

i am an expert. ask me


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## dapucker1 (Sep 13, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (1broknrado)*

hi,
i was wondering how to repair my cracked fog lights. i really like them, especially with my new strobes that i got installed. they even blink when my subs hit hard.
thanks guys,
micah


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

if you put plastic wrap on the foglights and melt the plastic into the crack, you wont even see it anymore. and you can fix your strobe light issue by putting a piece of tin foil in the fuse by the battery. gives it more power baby!


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: (ein)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ein* »_
You should seriously buy the book w/the digital version included. The Bentley is hands down the *MOST* important thing you will ever buy for your Corrado (or any VW for that matter). It sucks that its not cheap but the info in the book will save you tenfold in the long run.

Personally i just have digital copy but I have an eeepc in my car all the time and at the shop with me


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## dasbeast3.0 (Aug 15, 2007)

*Re: (TheBurninator)*

rob said it ^ bently ftw.


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## dasbeast3.0 (Aug 15, 2007)

*Re: (dasbeast3.0)*

and yeh..digital version is a good idea. i need to get one. i seem to destroy paperbacks.


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## francocorrado (Nov 23, 2004)

*FV-QR*

then you'll just end up with a dirty computer...


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## ein (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (francocorrado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *francocorrado* »_then you'll just end up with a dirty computer...


_Quote, originally posted by *dasbeast3.0* »_and yeh..digital version is a good idea. i need to get one. i seem to destroy paperbacks. 

Thats why you buy both. Besides its only a couple bucks more to get a digital copy with the paper one.
I'm no "expert" just making a







PSA.


----------



## sal16v (Mar 15, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (ein)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ein* »_
Thats why you buy both. Besides its only a couple bucks more to get a digital copy with the paper one.
I'm no "expert" just making a







PSA.

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasbeast3.0* »_and yeh..digital version is a good idea. i need to get one. i seem to destroy paperbacks.



IM sent.


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

PLease help Im having timing chain issues


----------



## ratatat (Nov 28, 2008)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

Hello I have 90 G60
I am about to finish up timing after I get this darn tensioner tool.
before I buy it though, should I buy a new tensioner as well?
I guess I just want to know how critical it is.
I am kinda new to this whole working on your car thing, but am very pumped to learn about all this and save some bucks doing it myself
Thanks in advance, Sean


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *ratatat* »_Hello I have 90 G60
I am about to finish up timing after I get this darn tensioner tool.
before I buy it though, should I buy a new tensioner as well?
I guess I just want to know how critical it is.
I am kinda new to this whole working on your car thing, but am very pumped to learn about all this and save some bucks doing it myself
Thanks in advance, Sean



Timing belt tensioner is critical to buy a new one when you replace the timing belt!


----------



## ratatat (Nov 28, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Thanks Burninator, I will definitely pick that up as well.
I am glad for the quick response, was hoping to maybe possibly get the parts for this weekend.
will ask more questions if I cannot get this right though, though I have seen a few very good threads that have everything I need to know
thanks again, Sean


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *ratatat* »_Thanks Burninator, I will definitely pick that up as well.
I am glad for the quick response, was hoping to maybe possibly get the parts for this weekend.
will ask more questions if I cannot get this right though, though I have seen a few very good threads that have everything I need to know
thanks again, Sean


No problem. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sal16v (Mar 15, 2003)

I think this thread will bring the corrado forum back to where it should be. Not saying i am not guilty of ********, i think we all are but as for myself i think helping is way more fun and important! 
So to all ask away and i will help with what i can inturn pleae help myself and others with your good knowledge!


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (sal16v)*

well said nick. 
who's next?


----------



## prodigy_g60 (Jun 25, 2006)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*

OK, I will join the fun.
I have 91 G60 with no more charger and am running a T3 super 60 turbo. The car is running with 42# injectors, stock IC, SNS stage V chip, 93oct at all times, pushing around 15psi.
I have since gone through two blocks, blew one piston to pieces and another cant be far behind. Why is this happening?
Other people have given me advice but they tend to contradict. Some say running lean and detonation, some say running rich and pooling, and third is the timing is off. I have dyno charts I could post if that helps with the fueling


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (prodigy_g60)*

is that chip for a supercharged application? also, what are you AFR's in boost?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

my guess is the digi1 cant keep up with the changing AFR's quick enough. Probably alot of fluctuation in the AFR's when you get into boost.
Post the dyno plots.


----------



## pileofredparts (Mar 20, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Post the dyno plots.









its a turbo chip


----------



## prodigy_g60 (Jun 25, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (pileofredparts)*









I know I know but I only have narrowband AFR but it never shows lean if anything a little rich. Thats why I was interested in the timing solution, would I want to set my timing back or forward or what?


----------



## galvo (Jun 14, 2006)

Who capitalizes "new guys". Oh yeah, noobs.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (galvo)*

wow, your AFR's are all over the place. it should be MUCH more static than that. i point to a poor fuel filter, pump, or tune.


----------



## pileofredparts (Mar 20, 2009)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_wow, your AFR's are all over the place. it should be MUCH more static than that. i point to a poor fuel filter, pump, or tune. 

like you said
poor tune
but in the G60 world there are no good options


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_wow, your AFR's are all over the place. it should be MUCH more static than that. i point to a poor fuel filter, pump, or tune. 



I think it is from Digi 1 management... it runs like that all the time on a perfect tune. THe CPU cant keep up with the engine
Standalone that thing and get a solid tune on it.


----------



## omega260 (May 16, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

My Corrado logo is missing of the rear of the car and it saddens me alot and the shift nob is missing the medallion... is there a site or something were i can order this stuff from? or am i going to have to sneak into one of your houses and rip off the corrado logo lol


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (omega260)*

contact one of the links in the 3rd or 4th post of this thread for the corrado logo on the back. as for the shift knob, you are better off buying a BRAND NEW one as they are only ~ 35 bucks from the dealership.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *pileofredparts* »_
like you said
poor tune
but in the G60 world there are no good options










Either standalone or swap it out to motronic


----------



## G0to60 (Jun 23, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

I a give and a take. My give is I recently took apart my spoiler to see why one side didn't want to go down very well. Here are the inards of the spoiler mechanism and the broken cable that caused it.
This is the inside of where the motor moves the cables on either side. This needs to be lubed up for the two toothed sliders to move freely. These attach to the cables that raise and lower the spoiler.








This is why mine had troubles going down. The cable broke so it could push the spoiler up but couldn't pull it back down.








Now my question.
I have a '90 G60 and the HVAC has been having issues for some time. Most of the time it is stuck on the dash vents no matter what the selector is on. When it is above 70F outside then it does some other weird stuff. I'll try to explain the best I can.
Driving normal and then taking a left hand turn the HVAC will go from dash vents to what the selector is on (usually floor vents).
If HVAC is working correctly on the indicated vents and then a slight sudden stop is performed it will always go back to the dash vents.
I know that I'll need to pull the dash and get to the HVAC box but what should I look for when I get in there.








Awesome thread idea too. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Your HVAC issue is due to a lack of a vacuum one way valve. Also check the vacuum lines on the actual controls them selves.


----------



## prodigy_g60 (Jun 25, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_

I think it is from Digi 1 management... it runs like that all the time on a perfect tune. THe CPU cant keep up with the engine
Standalone that thing and get a solid tune on it.

Standalone is my plan and it has been my plan, but now I need to get a real job to afford it. I was just wondering if there anything I can do now to get through the season.
Thanks for all the responses


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *prodigy_g60* »_
Standalone is my plan and it has been my plan, but now I need to get a real job to afford it. I was just wondering if there anything I can do now to get through the season.
Thanks for all the responses


There really isn't too much you can do to solve the issue of digi 1 being slow to react. Megasquirt is cheap and works well though.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_Your HVAC issue is due to a lack of a vacuum one way valve. Also check the vacuum lines on the actual controls them selves.

also check the metal relay cables (think bicycle brake cables) going to the "flaps" on the heater box. you can access these from under the pass side dash, and there should be a blue and black one easily accessible. one changes from hot to cold, the other direction of air travel. make sure they are both secured properly.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
also check the metal relay cables (think bicycle brake cables) going to the "flaps" on the heater box. you can access these from under the pass side dash, and there should be a blue and black one easily accessible. one changes from hot to cold, the other direction of air travel. make sure they are both secured properly. 


If it is early interior those cables dont exist


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

really? learn something new every day.


----------



## sal16v (Mar 15, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

OK, so yes jake and i have been going over this and over and over. The first problem is that there are so many GUESSES on what the actual normal running coolant and oil temps on a 1992-1994 slc with working a/c as the car would come from the factory. Please understand Jake and i are not noobs we use search and have read through the bently and have a large back round working on vw's. We are asking to please not post if you are not sure we need facts and specs. To figure it out!
Now to help mods on both cars are intake and exhaust. other then that it's all pretty crap. Both cars do a lot of the same things but a few different.
Jakes car runs at 230 all the time fans run and shut off, temp drops few then temp comes back and fans cycle again. My car runs at 200 till sitting in traffic then 230 and fans kick and cycle as jakes does. The difference is my thermostat is said to be a 160(not sure)
Now both cars with a/c on run same, 230 with fans running.
Jakes car is running 5 40 synth oil and average temps are 220.
My car running 20w-50 castrol and temps run from 220 to as high on highway 250!
I'm thinking i have a bad oil temp sensor as oil should not have that drastic differences.
When both cars are shut off low fans will run for a min then shut off, sometimes turning back on and cycling.
Both have same sensors(all three) and fresh full coolant flush.
So this might be tough to find but could someone who has owned said car from new tell us what they have seen over time if they can remember.
1) please state normal running no a/c on temp.
2) temps in traffic
3) temps when fans kick and cycle
4) all above with a/c on
5) summer temps
6) winter temps
Thank you!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_really? learn something new every day.










Yessir


----------



## Pinepig (Jul 9, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
secondly, i have seen SOOOOOO many of the same thread over and over and over again over the last 7 years, that i felt we should have a thread like this. one that the more senior level forum attendees could check every day to help out the new peeps, and/or the old ones with questions. 



Just want to tag this thread so I can check it in my watched topics.
Oh and here,








http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...age=1


----------



## Mr. Blank (May 18, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Pigsdofly)*

hey guys im new to the corrado thing...... i have a question.
when i turn my wheel in either direction while driving, i hear a clicking sound coming from the drivers side wheel area. what could it be? i can almost feel the clicking in the car. thats how bad it is! is it my transmission? or even worse, my motor? any help would be much appreciated.....


----------



## G0to60 (Jun 23, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Mr. Blank)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Mr. Blank* »_hey guys im new to the corrado thing...... i have a question.
when i turn my wheel in either direction while driving, i hear a clicking sound coming from the drivers side wheel area. what could it be? i can almost feel the clicking in the car. thats how bad it is! is it my transmission? or even worse, my motor? any help would be much appreciated.....

could be the CV joints in the axle. jack up the car (and us jack stands http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif ) and take a look at the CV boots at each end of the axle. if they are torn up then dirt and grime probably got in there and the joint is bad.


----------



## Mr. Blank (May 18, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (G0to60)*

ok, thats better than a tranny or a motor.... any idea on where to jack the car up? on the rocker right? right where the little dimple is? on the rocker? i tried that before and completely crushed the rocker on the other side. if thats a jack point, why is it so weak? also, how do i remove the CV joint? i would much rather replace just the CV joint than the entire axle.....


----------



## itskmill06 (Dec 23, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Mr. Blank)*

starting problems... has fuel, (as far as I can tell) and spark plugs are good. Just replaced FPR, filter, and fuel pump... still just cranks. Starts sometimes, then dies after about 150 miles... here's my thread
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4326953


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *itskmill06* »_starting problems... has fuel, (as far as I can tell) and spark plugs are good. Just replaced FPR, filter, and fuel pump... still just cranks. Starts sometimes, then dies after about 150 miles... here's my thread
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4326953


Fuel pump relay goin bad


----------



## itskmill06 (Dec 23, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Fuel pump relay goin bad

been changed too!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

how about ECU relay? Had an issue with my digi1 rabbit and ended up being ecu relay


----------



## Mr. Blank (May 18, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Mr. Blank)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Mr. Blank* »_ok, thats better than a tranny or a motor.... any idea on where to jack the car up? on the rocker right? right where the little dimple is? on the rocker? i tried that before and completely crushed the rocker on the other side. if thats a jack point, why is it so weak? also, how do i remove the CV joint? i would much rather replace just the CV joint than the entire axle.....


----------



## kevwithoutacorrado (Jun 9, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Mr. Blank)*

Got one for you.
1993 Vr6 coilpack
Runs rough as hell, has huge power loss.
Codes:
2231
1321
1322
3434 (a relay clicks on/off/on/off when this code is blinking)
4312
1322
injectors...
4411
4412
4413
4414
4421
4422
I have no ISV and no EGR (been this way for a year and no problem)
I've swapped MAFs and no change.


----------



## Knightrider_0070 (May 15, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Question for the experts on the MFA mofo...
1993 SLC, with Coilpack.
MPG seems to work, displays anywhere from 18MPG to about 26MPG
Clock works, Oil Temp works, Outside temp works, Trip counter works....
MPH seems to be very inaccurate... also very slow to catch up.
If im going 65, sometimes it reads about 43.
When I goto slow down, it takes about a minute to each 0 mph.
Is this the famous Vacuum leak to the back of the guages?
Also, Cruise Control works, however it stuggles to keep up to the speed which I set..... I assume this is related to the same problem above...
I am curious why the auto-spolier always works at 55mph though.
Obviously this is getting an accurate speed rating.....
Does this guy get its own speed sensor? Where does it get this info?
thanks! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 2925 (Dec 11, 2007)

Any tips when replacing the valve cover gasket?


----------



## nofx1981 (Oct 24, 2006)

I've got this plug just hanging around by the passenger side strut tower after doing some work on the engine... I don't ever remember unplugging it... There's a free plug in the passenger side wheel well that I think it might connect to. The abs speed sensor maybe? How do I run it down into the wheel well? I can't figure it out...
Thanks!
pic of the plug


----------



## Mr. Blank (May 18, 2009)

*Re: (nofx1981)*

is your abs light on? thats def for the abs...


----------



## dude rado (May 22, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (itskmill06)*

noob question:
is there a company that sells a fairly cheap vr6 fuel pump?


----------



## nofx1981 (Oct 24, 2006)

*Re: (Mr. Blank)*

That's what I thought too, but no abs light... I've blinked for codes, nothing stored for it... and there is definitely a free plug on the passenger steering knuckle. Just got to figure out how to thread it down into the wheel well. I'll take a closer look this weekend.


----------



## Mr. Blank (May 18, 2009)

*Re: (nofx1981)*

wierd that the abs light isnt on, with out that plugged in you should have no abs....


----------



## prodigy_g60 (Jun 25, 2006)

*Re: (Mr. Blank)*

edit for wrong answer. Continue


_Modified by prodigy_g60 at 10:16 PM 6-11-2009_


----------



## kjperry (Sep 22, 2006)

*Re: (pileofredparts)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pileofredparts* »_
like you said
poor tune
but in the G60 world there are no good options










_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_wow, your AFR's are all over the place. it should be MUCH more static than that. i point to a poor fuel filter, pump, or tune. 


_Quote, originally posted by *prodigy_g60* »_OK, I will join the fun.
I have 91 G60 with no more charger and am running a T3 super 60 turbo. The car is running with 42# injectors, stock IC, SNS stage V chip, 93oct at all times, pushing around 15psi.
I have since gone through two blocks, blew one piston to pieces and another cant be far behind. Why is this happening?
Other people have given me advice but they tend to contradict. Some say running lean and detonation, some say running rich and pooling, and third is the timing is off. I have dyno charts I could post if that helps with the fueling


^^^What they said, you may have a bad chip. I ordered a stage IV from SNS, installed it and had it dyno'd and it only put down like 130 or so at the wheels and was fat as a pig. I emailed them and sent them my dyno sheets, they burned a new chip for me. It was a night and day difference and the car made 170+ at the wheels.
How long have you had the chip?
Are those dyno sheets from when the set up was completed? (Just trying to understand your time line here)
Have you checked the CO-Pot?


----------



## G0to60 (Jun 23, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Mr. Blank)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Mr. Blank* »_ok, thats better than a tranny or a motor.... any idea on where to jack the car up? on the rocker right? right where the little dimple is? on the rocker? i tried that before and completely crushed the rocker on the other side. if thats a jack point, why is it so weak? also, how do i remove the CV joint? i would much rather replace just the CV joint than the entire axle.....

do not jack up at the rockers. i also crushed mine in my youth.







if you look where the dimple is under the car but past the pinch weld there's a section where the suspension connects too (i think). right around there is there is a good spot for a jack and/or jack stand.
i've never done just the CV as I've always replace the axle. shouldn't be too hard i think.


----------



## dasbeast3.0 (Aug 15, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Knightrider_0070)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Knightrider_0070* »_Question for the experts on the MFA mofo...
1993 SLC, with Coilpack.
MPG seems to work, displays anywhere from 18MPG to about 26MPG
Clock works, Oil Temp works, Outside temp works, Trip counter works....
MPH seems to be very inaccurate... also very slow to catch up.
If im going 65, sometimes it reads about 43.
When I goto slow down, it takes about a minute to each 0 mph.
Is this the famous Vacuum leak to the back of the guages?
Also, Cruise Control works, however it stuggles to keep up to the speed which I set..... I assume this is related to the same problem above...
I am curious why the auto-spolier always works at 55mph though.
Obviously this is getting an accurate speed rating.....
Does this guy get its own speed sensor? Where does it get this info?
thanks! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

no vacuum on the cluster for 93. there is a sensor for the speedo. prob went bad, id sugg. replacing it. should fix your prob. your spoiler will still work @ 45 because it is still seeing a signal being 45mph.. just not @ the right "real world" speed.


----------



## corradokyd (Jun 4, 1999)

*Re: (prodigy_g60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *prodigy_g60* »_edit for wrong answer. Continue



i think you should drop down to 30#s and maybe get the chip remapped. you are most likely running too rich and prob washing all the oil off the cylinder walls with fuel. 
15psi isnt high enough boost to be blowin up blocks....


----------



## Krazee (Jan 26, 2003)

I didn't want to wade through all this...but in the coming weeks I will compile the be-all, end-all of Brake threads. It will not cover DIYs, or anything like that. No, it will simply cover the various upgrade possible and the companies who sell said upgrades.


----------



## jkcorradovr6 (Mar 13, 2002)

*Re: (Krazee)*

Does any one know if manual Euro Headlight adjusters are the same as US spec headlights. Pretty sure they were, but cannot remember.


----------



## Knightrider_0070 (May 15, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (dasbeast3.0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasbeast3.0* »_
no vacuum on the cluster for 93. there is a sensor for the speedo. prob went bad, id sugg. replacing it. should fix your prob. your spoiler will still work @ 45 because it is still seeing a signal being 45mph.. just not @ the right "real world" speed. 


And where might I find this speed sensor?


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (xnology)*


_Quote, originally posted by *xnology* »_I think a format like I suggested earlier would work.
Start a thread. Get it stickied. Users IM a mod that they know their $#[email protected] about ... and inform them that they'd be willing to receive IM's from perplexed owners.
Their name is on the list. Someone needs help. They look at the thread, drill down to the area they're looking for help in and viola! You have an expert help line. Pretty simple I would think.

Maybe something like this?
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1105354


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (ratatat)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ratatat* »_Hello I have 90 G60
I am about to finish up timing after I get this darn tensioner tool.
before I buy it though, should I buy a new tensioner as well?
I guess I just want to know how critical it is.
I am kinda new to this whole working on your car thing, but am very pumped to learn about all this and save some bucks doing it myself
Thanks in advance, Sean


Where did you find the tensioner tool? I take it the tool is the one for compressing the serp. belt tensioner?


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (Pigsdofly)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pigsdofly* »_

Just want to tag this thread so I can check it in my watched topics.
Oh and here,








http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...age=1 

Wow there some old names I have forgotten, I also wanted to add, that if anyone in the Pacific Northwest (Washington) is planing on doing a window regulator R&R with say a stock one. I'd like to help so I can redo my write up from a couple years ago. I lot all my picks from it when hostdub.com
went down in flames.
I will also have a write up soon on replacing the Blower motor for the G60, just swapped in a new one tonight. That is unless people don't need that info.










_Modified by Non_Affiliated at 11:43 PM 6-11-2009_


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (dude rado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kevwithoutacorrado* »_Got one for you.
1993 Vr6 coilpack
Runs rough as hell, has huge power loss.
Codes:
2231
1321
1322
3434 (a relay clicks on/off/on/off when this code is blinking)
4312
1322
injectors...
4411
4412
4413
4414
4421
4422
I have no ISV and no EGR (been this way for a year and no problem)
I've swapped MAFs and no change.


*blink codes suck, get a proper vag reading cause i have no time to look up all those codes. 
i am calling CTS or O2 though. also, could just be a bad coil pack. *

_Quote, originally posted by *Knightrider_0070* »_Question for the experts on the MFA mofo...
1993 SLC, with Coilpack.
MPG seems to work, displays anywhere from 18MPG to about 26MPG
Clock works, Oil Temp works, Outside temp works, Trip counter works....
MPH seems to be very inaccurate... also very slow to catch up.
If im going 65, sometimes it reads about 43.
When I goto slow down, it takes about a minute to each 0 mph.
Is this the famous Vacuum leak to the back of the guages?
Also, Cruise Control works, however it stuggles to keep up to the speed which I set..... I assume this is related to the same problem above...
I am curious why the auto-spolier always works at 55mph though.
Obviously this is getting an accurate speed rating.....
Does this guy get its own speed sensor? Where does it get this info?
thanks! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

*spoiler is meant to be at 45, so you VSS is likely off, and you likely have a vac leak. (explains the cruise control)
and when you say MFA mph, do you mean cluster? or actual digital display? cause the digital part is AVG mph, not ACTUAL. *

_Quote, originally posted by *2925* »_Any tips when replacing the valve cover gasket?

*dont rip the new one, and be careful tightening the end nuts onto the long studs. those studs can break, and cause you a HUGE headache.*

_Quote, originally posted by *dude rado* »_noob question:
is there a company that sells a fairly cheap vr6 fuel pump?

*
look in the archives for a "psa/public service announcement" thread about an 89 dollar fuel pump*


----------



## pileofredparts (Mar 20, 2009)

*Re: (nofx1981)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nofx1981* »_I've got this plug just hanging around by the passenger side strut tower after doing some work on the engine... I don't ever remember unplugging it... There's a free plug in the passenger side wheel well that I think it might connect to. The abs speed sensor maybe? How do I run it down into the wheel well? I can't figure it out...
Thanks!
pic of the plug









that is the plug for the brake wear sensor in the pads
never seen one on a corrado, what harness is in your car? mk3? passat?


----------



## xavierz007 (Oct 29, 2007)

*Re: (pileofredparts)*

is there a corrado wiki out there? this all seems like a perfect candidate for something like that. if there isn't i'm down to set one up.


----------



## LoCashDubbin2 (Jul 14, 2008)

*Re: (xavierz007)*

hey guys,whats good?..I just bought my Rado a few months ago with a swapped VR...how do i tell if it's ODBI or ODBII..dumb question i know can you help me out??


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Hell ive been hidding out in the mk1 forum due to this.

I'm also guilty as charged.









http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif To this thread!
*I have much knowledge on g60> 16v swaps. I read up on tubo setups, but mine is n/a specifically.*


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (LoCashDubbin2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *LoCashDubbin2* »_hey guys,whats good?..I just bought my Rado a few months ago with a swapped VR...how do i tell if it's ODBI or ODBII..dumb question i know can you help me out??

easiest way is to see if it has a dizzy, if so, OBD1, if not, look at the # on the ECU. if it is "258 P" or something similar, it is OBD1.


----------



## jkcorradovr6 (Mar 13, 2002)

*Re: (jkcorradovr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jkcorradovr6* »_Does any one know if manual Euro Headlight adjusters are the same as US spec headlights. Pretty sure they were, but cannot remember.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (jkcorradovr6)*

IIRc they are the same, but why go manual when you can go factory electronic?


----------



## nofx1981 (Oct 24, 2006)

*Re: (pileofredparts)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pileofredparts* »_
that is the plug for the brake wear sensor in the pads


Really? that crossed my mind aswell. I think I've seen that mentioned in the Bentley, I'll take a look when I get home....

_Quote, originally posted by *pileofredparts* »_
never seen one on a corrado, what harness is in your car? mk3? passat?

I'm pretty sure it's the stock 93 harness, I haven't touched it, not sure about any po though.


----------



## jkcorradovr6 (Mar 13, 2002)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_IIRc they are the same, but why go manual when you can go factory electronic?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (jkcorradovr6)*

pus sy


----------



## SilverMan (Dec 8, 1999)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*

Four pages and no sunroof? Faq is up to date to 2002, pics long gone.
Here goes...
pop! sunroof had a broken slider, replaced it with the assembly from an early Passat, Swapped the metal panels so I didn't have a red roof on a purple car. Greased the track and slider, played around with the little rubber bits at the end, tested twice and was done.
Worked perfect! for a couple of months, the other day it seemed to get hung up while closing. Top is scratched, driver side rear. What am I looking for to fix this?
And if I need another new assembly, will the Corrado panel fit in an A3 track assembly? They are a lot more common in the local JY.


----------



## JIIP (Apr 20, 2006)

*FV-QR*

how about a power band that is different than any other vr i have driven. so it acts like a normal vr until about 3500 where upon it just gets a sudden surge of power and pulls like that untill redline. it also has a better intake noise than any other vr I have driven (5 of them). so the question is, does my car have cams?


----------



## SilverMan (Dec 8, 1999)

*Re: FV-QR (JIIP)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JIIP* »_ does my car have cams?

Yup, Two of them.








Cams will not affect the intake noise, my 268s perform as you describe so you may have something similar.


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

so im thinking of getting either 262s or 268s for my car...but the thing is...i want to go turbo, so wouldnt i have to just pull them out anyways when i get the turbo kit? aka waste of money?


----------



## ratatat (Nov 28, 2008)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Non_Affiliated)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Non_Affiliated* »_
Where did you find the tensioner tool? I take it the tool is the one for compressing the serp. belt tensioner?

Germanautoparts.com, was a just about 20 bucks, plus then some shipping
I will definitely buy from them again, they seem like an excellent business



_Modified by ratatat at 9:12 PM 6-13-2009_


----------



## GT TDI Golf (Jan 27, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (1broknrado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1broknrado* »_so im thinking of getting either 262s or 268s for my car...but the thing is...i want to go turbo, so wouldnt i have to just pull them out anyways when i get the turbo kit? aka waste of money?

I've heard of people running 268's with a turbo. Check the forced induction forum. Personally I'm going with SP 263's with a turbo.


----------



## JIIP (Apr 20, 2006)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *SilverMan* »_
Yup, Two of them.








Cams will not affect the intake noise, my 268s perform as you describe so you may have something similar.


well the since the duration becomes more I thought it might change the noise a little. I am pretty sure someone before me put cams in it.


----------



## mk4chris (Mar 4, 2008)

i have being working on this for the last 3 days and can not find the problem. i just bout a 91 corrado when i got to start it for the forst time in the day it turns on but RPM go way low almost stalls but doesent. after is watmed up idles fine at about 840 rpm but when i press on the pedal it goes up and stays at 1,000 RPM + for a long time and slowly comes down.
i have cheaked and adjusted the ISV and it sees to be working also cheaked for vaccum leacks and cant seem to find any. I did the MFA vaccum/boost test thing and i get 137 at idle not sure what this number means.
could any one give me any other ideas of what this could be.
oh i lso cheaked the idle screw behind the T-body and its good 
thanks


----------



## vdubCorrado (Nov 8, 2001)

*Re: (mk4chris)*

things on a G60 that effect idle...
ISV
Blue water temp sensor
O2 sensor
Vacuum line from ECU to TB
various vacuum leaks (Manifold to FPR is common)
faulty ignition switch
Dist cap and rotor being bad
thats atleast off the top of my head... i would first reach behind the intake manifold on the passenger side and locate the O2 harness bolted to the rear engine mount and disconnect it... that's an easy and free check for a faulty O2 sensor.
next i would order in a new blue water temp sensor 
http://www.germanautoparts.com...181/1
i'm also under the assumption you've replaced cap and rotor already. so check back with more infor on what you;ve check so far to see if i can help fix your problem... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## mk4chris (Mar 4, 2008)

isv seems to be working give a little bit of throotle and pressed the idle switch and it hunts for idle so am thinking its good. vaccum line from ecu to TB seems to be in good condition and sprayed it with some wd-40 and nothing so am pretty sure is good new vaccum line on the FPR to mani. is there any way to cheak the ignition switch. i also tryed to disconnect the blue temp sensor to see if there was any difference but it doesent even start with it disconnected witch am pretty sure thats how its suppose to be. looked at the cap and rotor dosnt look bad but i am planning on changin them. is there any way i could cheak the O2 and temp sensor. i am saving up for a bentley am a little broke right now







. i need help i cant even sleep 


_Modified by mk4chris at 2:17 AM 6-15-2009_


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: (vdubCorrado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubCorrado* »_things on a G60 that effect idle...
ISV
Blue water temp sensor
O2 sensor
Vacuum line from ECU to TB
various vacuum leaks (Manifold to FPR is common)
faulty ignition switch
Dist cap and rotor being bad


One thing to also check is the Throttle cable, see how much adjusttment is left. Also when the idle hangs, put your foot under the gas pedal and push up on the pedal. If the RPM's drop your cable is more than likely streched and you need a new one.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (mk4chris)*

to the sunroof Q,: if the top of the metal is scratched you have either :
a) a rock/[ebble stuck in there
b) are in need of adjustment of the 4 torx screws that hold the panel to the slides. 
if the latter in the case, it is no biggie. if you put the roof in in cold weather and now it is hot, that may have effected fitment.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_to the sunroof Q,: if the top of the metal is scratched you have either :
a) a rock/[ebble stuck in there
b) are in need of adjustment of the 4 torx screws that hold the panel to the slides. 
if the latter in the case, it is no biggie. if you put the roof in in cold weather and now it is hot, that may have effected fitment. 


my sunroof is scratched on top too... i can get it to do the "pop-up" but it wont slide back. How do you get to those torx?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
my sunroof is scratched on top too... i can get it to do the "pop-up" but it wont slide back. How do you get to those torx?


the guides are broken on your sunroof you will not be able to get it to slide back.


----------



## prodigy_g60 (Jun 25, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

You can just pop up the sunroof to get at the screws. But like it was said your guides are broken and a new track is needed.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: ([email protected])*

the 4 torx are located on the inner sides of the sunroof. you access them from inside the car. (circled in red)
if your sunroof is not going back, but IS tilting up, it is likely the slider thingy, looks like a silver metal hook, they break all the time, and won't pull the SR back (circled in blue)


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*

yeah i've seen the silver "hooks"... if those are broken its time for a passat sunroof, right?
What does an hook look like if its unbroken... mine dont look damaged or broken off


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: ([email protected])*

look closely at the pic, the blue circle on the left has a "Z" shaped metal piece, that night be broken (very common)
if the hook thingy is broken, it could just be not connected, although look OK. like, it should move. if it does so BY HAND, ****'s broke.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*

ill check it out a little more tonite. one other thing if you dont mind... the guy I bought it from claimed he "disconnected" the spoiler so it didnt break, which I assume is b.s. - i dont see anywhere to disconnect it anyhow, so im assuming maybe the module? the spoiler doesnt go up by itself or with the switch...


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: ([email protected])*

first check to see if there is power to the module, check the relay, and see if the module is even plugged in. 
it is under the dash, drvr side, up high by the switch. most common issue is that the white/blue wire is not connected (speed sensor wire)








and here is mikki's kick ass thread on this........ http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3993253


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*

yer awesome thanks man


----------



## vdubCorrado (Nov 8, 2001)

*Re: (mk4chris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk4chris* »_isv seems to be working give a little bit of throotle and pressed the idle switch and it hunts for idle so am thinking its good. vaccum line from ecu to TB seems to be in good condition and sprayed it with some wd-40 and nothing so am pretty sure is good new vaccum line on the FPR to mani. is there any way to cheak the ignition switch. i also tryed to disconnect the blue temp sensor to see if there was any difference but it doesent even start with it disconnected witch am pretty sure thats how its suppose to be. looked at the cap and rotor dosnt look bad but i am planning on changin them. is there any way i could cheak the O2 and temp sensor. i am saving up for a bentley am a little broke right now







. i need help i cant even sleep 

_Modified by mk4chris at 2:17 AM 6-15-2009_

if you go back and read my post you'll see the very first short paragraph agter the list is an explanation of how to disconnect the O2 sensor... by diconnecting the O2 sensor on the digifant computer system it automatically puts your ECU in "safe mode" which is a pregrogrammed air/fuel ratio with a little more fuel than "normal" to make sure your engine doesn't run lean... many times you'll find your car will idle better with the O2 disconnected than with it connected... i.e. faulty sensor...
if that is problem you can refer to this instead of paying full price for a Corrado G60 O2 sensor... which is over $200... either use a 3 wire universal O2 sensor or an 89 Mustang GT O2 sensor and cut the Ford plug off and wire it to the Corrado harness... sometimes the Ford one is cheaper than the universal thats why i mentioned it, and i have used it before with no problems...








the only way to effectively test the blue water temp sensor is to spend the $10 and replace it... your Corrado is 18 years old as it is... it won't hurt to replace it... first thing i do to every G60 i own is replace every sensor on the motor cause they probably havent been changed since it's been built... but that's me...


----------



## prodigy_g60 (Jun 25, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Whats the best way to clean/fix an ISV?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *prodigy_g60* »_Whats the best way to clean/fix an ISV?


Remove it from car completely


----------



## sal16v (Mar 15, 2003)

*Re: (prodigy_g60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *prodigy_g60* »_Whats the best way to clean/fix an ISV?

Pull it off, fill with wd40 shake and repeat! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## prodigy_g60 (Jun 25, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Remove it from car completely

Since I knew that anwser was coming what is needed to do it? Is there a write up on ISV removal?
I just wasnt sure what the best stuff to use was WD-40 or brake cleaner?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *prodigy_g60* »_
Since I knew that anwser was coming what is needed to do it? Is there a write up on ISV removal?
I just wasnt sure what the best stuff to use was WD-40 or brake cleaner?


Depends on the motor. VR6 you need to plug 2 of the lines that run to the manifold, G60 you need to plug the top port on the manifold and the port in the boost tube.


----------



## vdubCorrado (Nov 8, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (prodigy_g60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *prodigy_g60* »_
Since I knew that anwser was coming what is needed to do it? Is there a write up on ISV removal?
I just wasnt sure what the best stuff to use was WD-40 or brake cleaner?

actually to clean it use Brakleen GREEN can ONLY and spray and let it fall out till the Brakleen falling back out is clear again... spray it in from any possible angle as possible... i also use the straw provided... if you want to then follow it up with WD-40 to keep it lubed up after all the Brakleen has dried out, sure, but i never have. oil flows through the ISV so i never worried about it, but i guess it's not a bad idea...
removing it completely makes the car run alot more like a Carb'd car in the sense you have to spend alot of time setting the idle and changing it for different types of weather... i deleted one for about a month or two. drove me nuts if the weather changed too much so i had to buy a new one... just my opinon on deleting it though...
EDIT: removing the ISV on your G60 is killer easy... unscrew or obliterate your crimp clamp from your ISV at the manifold connection, then do the same to the other hose exiting from the driver side of the ISV. unplug the harness from the passenger side. then slide the ISV w/ the rubber grommet attached off of the hook... just comes straight up and then your ISV is out...


_Modified by vdubCorrado at 6:06 PM 6-15-2009_


----------



## vdubCorrado (Nov 8, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubCorrado)*

i know the site is killer out dated but alot of info is always relevant there to many common problems...
http://www.corrado-club.com 
then Corrado Information tab on the left
then FAQ's & Tech Tips
that would probably still help out alot of people http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_look closely at the pic, the blue circle on the left has a "Z" shaped metal piece, that night be broken (very common)
if the hook thingy is broken, it could just be not connected, although look OK. like, it should move. if it does so BY HAND, ****'s broke. 

here's what the "hooks" in mine look like... can you tell anything from these?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubCorrado)*

satan himself made ISV's, and all should be deleted based on this. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3626413


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
*CAN YOU MOVE THIS FORWARD AND AFT ON THE SLIDE? BY HAND? OR DOES IT JUST PIVOT LIKE A SEE-SAW?*








*GREY/BLACK RECTANGULAR BAR DIAGONALLY CROSSING THIS PIC, CAN YOU SLIDE THIS FORWARD AND AFT BY HAND? IF SO, DOES IT B4RING THE INNER PANEL OF THE SUNROOF WITH IT OR NO?*









IF YOU ANSWERED YES TO ANY OF THESE QUESTIONS YER **** IS BROKE SON


----------



## mk4chris (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: (vdubCorrado)*

ok so i disconnected the o2 harness and turned it on seems to run worst with it off it stumbles and hesetates when i step on the pedal. seems to be gotten better after i adjusted the isv and cleaned it but stil when i start it for the first time in the day it runs like poop i cant even step on the trottle with out it boggin down and then when warm it has the rpm in the right spot but then if i step on it just a bit it stays at 1k rpm now and wont go down. also did the vaccum/boost test thing on the MFA and got 137 againg during idle not sure what this means but according to my undertsnding maybe a vaccum leak but i cant find one no were


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (mk4chris)*

1) COOLANT TEMP SENSOR!!!!!!!!!!!
2) 137 means .............


----------



## mk4chris (Mar 4, 2008)

wait so is 137 good or bad i did a 3rd gear pull and it only hit 194 but it seems to pull strong. i also tryed adjusting the idle screw in the back of the T-body but doesnt do much change to the idle and when unplugin the blue coolant temp sensor it runs like crap am thinking super rich because when i step on the throttle it starts to back fire and bogs down then very sowly starts to go up in rpm very confused right now.










_Modified by mk4chris at 3:35 PM 6-15-2009_


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (mk4chris)*

194 is lower that a "healthy" stock charger
137 seems low for idle. IIRC you wanna be around 11" mercury on a PG, someone confirm this for me.


----------



## mk4chris (Mar 4, 2008)

i have being reading around and found 2 different sets of numbers to compare it to am not sure witch is coreect one vertion says at idle i should be between 550-750 and the other 84-104 reading not sure witch one am suppose to be looking for. am really not sure whats going on here i would think the idle screw would show a significant amount of change to the rpm but when i unscrew it if am siting at around 840 RPM it maybe only increases it to 1k rpm not sure if this is right.


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

*battery in trunk*

I want to put the battery behind my seat is there an easy place to feed wire through the firewall without drilling


----------



## sal16v (Mar 15, 2003)

*Re: battery in trunk (nu2dubbing)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nu2dubbing* »_I want to put the battery behind my seat is there an easy place to feed wire through the firewall without drilling

There are many unused holes capped with gourmets, take down the knee bar and associated plastic, look up between the pedal cluster and fuse block... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## NeverOEM (Dec 17, 2007)

Hey guys, I got the car running today and all is well. However, I do have one concern. The little box that mounts in front of the coolant bulb on that bracket buzzes when the car is turned off. If there is battery power or the car is on, it doesn't do anything. I was wondering if this was normal and if it shuts off after awhile. I disconnected it and then plugged it back in and that stopped the buzzing, but I wasn't sure if this is normal, as stated. Thanks guys.


----------



## dworkz (Nov 17, 2007)

*FV-QR*

wow snood is still around


----------



## PrimaVW (Dec 22, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (dworkz)*

i'll ask the experts... how does mcnair look so damn good all the time... i'm what does this guy have like a team of people following him around driven to make him look his best? I found this pic from an old post...


----------



## mk4chris (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*

so i changed my cap and rotor today and it seems like it was running better but the MFA reading was went up to 140







the idle screw still does almost nothing i could pull it all the way out and it only increases by a few rpms. not sure whats going on here i also cheaked my timing to day and the timing marks seem to be in the right places. ny other ideas


----------



## Rado.Cannonball (Jun 5, 2008)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

heres my question

here


----------



## NeverOEM (Dec 17, 2007)

*Re: (NeverOEM)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NeverOEM* »_Hey guys, I got the car running today and all is well. However, I do have one concern. The little box that mounts in front of the coolant bulb on that bracket buzzes when the car is turned off. If there is battery power or the car is on, it doesn't do anything. I was wondering if this was normal and if it shuts off after awhile. I disconnected it and then plugged it back in and that stopped the buzzing, but I wasn't sure if this is normal, as stated. Thanks guys.

bump, any input?


----------



## sal16v (Mar 15, 2003)

*Re: (NeverOEM)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NeverOEM* »_
bump, any input?

Sounds like it has coolant infiltration, check stealership for recall!


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (sal16v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sal16v* »_
Sounds like it has coolant infiltration, check stealership for recall!

is the fan control module (the box) buzzing, or is the after run pump buzzing? (looks like a silver coke can with 3 black hoses on it, on the side of the motor. )


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*

Battery Drain Question:
How do you find an intermittent drain on a VR? I've checked the draw from the battery with the car off and it is within normal tolerances according to the Bentley. I've pulled the electric seat belts and the associated relays. If the car sits for a day or more there is not enough juice to turn the car over. Any ideas?


----------



## Sponge Bob (Jun 8, 2009)

*Re: (iAco)*

Hi, I'm new to around here, just bought my first corrado this weekend. The brake lights don't work. Well the 3rd one does and the two main ones don't. I was messing around with them a little and noticed that both lights have the 4 terminal connectors on them, but the passenger side light has 1 extra connector going into the back with just one wire. My question is; should the drivers side have that connector too?


----------



## NeverOEM (Dec 17, 2007)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
is the fan control module (the box) buzzing, or is the after run pump buzzing? (looks like a silver coke can with 3 black hoses on it, on the side of the motor. )


it's that little black box. so it's a recall part?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (NeverOEM)*


_Quote, originally posted by *iAco* »_Battery Drain Question:
How do you find an intermittent drain on a VR? I've checked the draw from the battery with the car off and it is within normal tolerances according to the Bentley. I've pulled the electric seat belts and the associated relays. If the car sits for a day or more there is not enough juice to turn the car over. Any ideas? 

*how old is the battery? have you tried filling it with distilled water? *

_Quote, originally posted by *Sponge Bob* »_Hi, I'm new to around here, just bought my first corrado this weekend. The brake lights don't work. Well the 3rd one does and the two main ones don't. I was messing around with them a little and noticed that both lights have the 4 terminal connectors on them, but the passenger side light has 1 extra connector going into the back with just one wire. My question is; should the drivers side have that connector too?

*nope, that is normal. you likely have a bulb out. if it were a fuse, the 3rd one wouldnt work. do your reverse lights work? *

_Quote, originally posted by *NeverOEM* »_
it's that little black box. so it's a recall part?

*yes, and it may very well be. you need to confirm the part # written on it (big white numbers) with the stealership to see if it falls under the TSB. *


----------



## Sponge Bob (Jun 8, 2009)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*

Bulbs are fine, and yes the reverse lights and blinkers work


----------



## ryanarchy (Nov 27, 2008)

*Re: (Sponge Bob)*

1.Anybody know where i can score one of those mk3? or mk2?







factory radios that have that aux jack on the front? I like the period correct look for the corrado. just throwing in a decent alpine is just boring to me at this point and not nearly as cool or rare
2.How much do the above said radios typically cost?
3. would be getting a custom chip from sns/bbm be worth it? Or should i save my $175 and keep my autotech q-chip? motor is an g60 with 260 cam, headwork, small stem valve w/stock size faces, isv reroute, catback exhuast, 3.5fpr, eurosport intake, rsr outlet, and the other typical bolt ons, charger's got 45k on it and boosts good/ little oil loss/ and doesnt produce much grey goo. chargers got a 68mm pulley. soon to have an stock a1 intake manifold. my thoughts were "replace the chip once i get the manifold on" that sound good or would my gains be less than 3hp with a different chip?
4. is there a big difference between a 260 cam and a 268?
5. are there 268 cams that are cali emissions legal?
thats good for now, i feel like i could do this for hours....
p.s. i love this thread. thanks McNooberton


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
*how old is the battery? have you tried filling it with distilled water? *


The battery is no more than 2 years old and I have not tried filling it with distilled water.


----------



## mk4chris (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: (mk4chris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk4chris* »_so i changed my cap and rotor today and it seems like it was running better but the MFA reading was went up to 140







the idle screw still does almost nothing i could pull it all the way out and it only increases by a few rpms. not sure whats going on here i also cheaked my timing to day and the timing marks seem to be in the right places. ny other ideas

bump, any one have any input










_Modified by mk4chris at 4:54 PM 6-16-2009_


----------



## VR SEX (Apr 2, 2002)

*Re: (mk4chris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk4chris* »_
bump, any one have any imput









how are all the vacuum lines....
replacing crappy vac lines is usually a great place to start when tuning up a g60


----------



## NeverOEM (Dec 17, 2007)

the driver's side hood release is absolute crap. The hood seems to be off, so I'm worried its a touch out of shape. Unless other people have had a similar problem with just the latch not releasing. Also, the release has come off the handle, can someone take a picture of how the cable is supposed to be placed so I can get that squared away as well?


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *1broknrado* »_This is waht i come up with after multiple times of installing cams with cam tool in place and matching the lines up on the crank and int. shaft....ike i said its still like a hair off.... is this OK or do i need to pull motor and redo everything.


----------



## patel19 (Feb 24, 2005)

Where can I buy E code Headlights for my 1994 SLC?


----------



## mustloveclutch (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

ok I was on the fence about posting but 'super hot chicks with corrados'... lol kidding but I am a chick with a corrado i suppose the rest depends on personal taste. I just got it last week, and I sorta need an introduction. '92 former g60 now-vR6 via engine swap. Front & rear sway bars, new header & 3 inch exaust (no muffler or cat), basically heavily modified. Decent mechanical skills; no racing or much after-market experience, but tackled most standard repair & replace by 200k. Problem- headlights intermittently come on at best & have yet to get manual. anything radically different from an 84 scirocco? understand likely prob, hesitant to dive in without manual. sorry dont know proper length of post.


----------



## mustloveclutch (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: (mk4chris)*

I was told any idle tweak is automatically compensated for by the computer


----------



## ein (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (mustloveclutch)*

Great. Here we go again.


----------



## mustloveclutch (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (reignofterror)*

To clarify: I am super awesome, amazing, and rated hot by approx. 4 out of 5, with both corrado and scirocco. Can I post annoying questions now? I can drive stick in heels...


----------



## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (mustloveclutch)*

I am not really a "new guy" but i haz a few questions.
1.Is there anything particularly difficult about replacing the rear main seal on the VR6? I have done a few clutches, and replaced a few transmissions on 1.8t's, 8v's, chevs, etc. But never done a rear main.
2. Is the spring loaded ram that helps the hatch pop open useful at all. Mines always been missing, is it worth replacing?


_Modified by 02GTIFREESKIER at 8:07 PM 6-16-2009_


----------



## mustloveclutch (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (02GTIFREESKIER)*

* about the hatch * I dont think so; i am a new guy but mine was gone forever & i replaced it and the hydralics and i shoulda saved my money and used a big stick to prop it up. long as it lifts easily i wouldnt bother 


_Modified by mustloveclutch at 11:12 PM 6-16-2009_


----------



## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (mustloveclutch)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mustloveclutch* »_* about the hatch * I dont think so; i am a new guy but mine was gone forever & i replaced it and the hydralics and i shoulda saved my money and used a big stick to prop it up. long as it lifts easily i wouldnt bother 

_Modified by mustloveclutch at 11:12 PM 6-16-2009_

No thats not what im talking about. There is just a little "popper" that helps the hatch pop open. I wish i had picture, i cant really describe it. My hyrdraulic rams work fine.


----------



## Killingcivics (Feb 23, 2004)

Got a couple good ones since my car actually now runs. 
1) no front sidemarkers or rear drivers driving light.
Turn signals work in the back as well as brake lights.
2) wipers in the front wont go down at all, they seem stuck at upright position.
3) gauges are acting weird temp gauge does not work, tach is working but at idle it appears like the car is off. Fuel gauge raises as you drive.
but it is running for the first time 5 years!


----------



## vdubCorrado (Nov 8, 2001)

*Re: (ryanarchy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ryanarchy* »_1.Anybody know where i can score one of those mk3? or mk2?







factory radios that have that aux jack on the front? I like the period correct look for the corrado. just throwing in a decent alpine is just boring to me at this point and not nearly as cool or rare
2.How much do the above said radios typically cost?
3. would be getting a custom chip from sns/bbm be worth it? Or should i save my $175 and keep my autotech q-chip? motor is an g60 with 260 cam, headwork, small stem valve w/stock size faces, isv reroute, catback exhuast, 3.5fpr, eurosport intake, rsr outlet, and the other typical bolt ons, charger's got 45k on it and boosts good/ little oil loss/ and doesnt produce much grey goo. chargers got a 68mm pulley. soon to have an stock a1 intake manifold. my thoughts were "replace the chip once i get the manifold on" that sound good or would my gains be less than 3hp with a different chip?
4. is there a big difference between a 260 cam and a 268?
5. are there 268 cams that are cali emissions legal?
thats good for now, i feel like i could do this for hours....
p.s. i love this thread. thanks McNooberton

an Autotech Q-Chip isn't a Q -Chip there is different programming for them and you need ot make sure it's programmed for wht you have... Digifant ECU's are bad enough for maintaining a good constant Air/Fuel ratio, and adding the wrong programming will lead to...
















when they should look like...


----------



## vdubCorrado (Nov 8, 2001)

*Re: (NeverOEM)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NeverOEM* »_the driver's side hood release is absolute crap. The hood seems to be off, so I'm worried its a touch out of shape. Unless other people have had a similar problem with just the latch not releasing. Also, the release has come off the handle, can someone take a picture of how the cable is supposed to be placed so I can get that squared away as well?

also sounds like it is time for a new hood release cable... before mine finally gave out the driver side stopped working properly before it completely stopped working all together on red rado...


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
CAN YOU MOVE THIS FORWARD AND AFT ON THE SLIDE? BY HAND? OR DOES IT JUST PIVOT LIKE A SEE-SAW?

GREY/BLACK RECTANGULAR BAR DIAGONALLY CROSSING THIS PIC, CAN YOU SLIDE THIS FORWARD AND AFT BY HAND? IF SO, DOES IT B4RING THE INNER PANEL OF THE SUNROOF WITH IT OR NO?

IF YOU ANSWERED YES TO ANY OF THESE QUESTIONS YER **** IS BROKE SON









neither one seems to be easily moved by hand... any other ideas?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: ([email protected])*

*sponge bob:* check all of your fuses. if all are good, check all of the grounds on the grounding block INSIDE the hatch, but the spoiler motor. make sure all of the brwn plugs are plugged into the grounding block
*
Ryanarchy:* PM me, i have a "DELUXE AUDIO" radio. they came on late jettas, and a few others. i will sell you mine for a deal. 
*neveroem:* adjust the rubber stopper on the rad support by unscrewig it a bit to put more upward force on that dise, then, take a 7mm 1/4 socket and loosen the small bolt on the cable itself (behind pass side headlight) then, pull the metal cable tight with vice grips, while retightening the 7mm. also, get one of these... http://gruvenparts.com/website...id=60
*Patel:* contact corradofuhrer (sp) he has a set of ecodes for a VR he could sell you pretty cheap. 
*o2gtifreeskier:* that little popper just helps the hatch come up a bit once the latch is released. it is not that important. (i dont use them)
*Jared: * you likely need to adjust the 4 screws in that pic i posted (circled in red)


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (mustloveclutch)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mustloveclutch* »_ok I was on the fence about posting but 'super hot chicks with corrados'... lol kidding but I am a chick with a corrado i suppose the rest depends on personal taste. I just got it last week, and I sorta need an introduction. '92 former g60 now-vR6 via engine swap. Front & rear sway bars, new header & 3 inch exaust (no muffler or cat), basically heavily modified. Decent mechanical skills; no racing or much after-market experience, but tackled most standard repair & replace by 200k. Problem- headlights intermittently come on at best & have yet to get manual. anything radically different from an 84 scirocco? understand likely prob, hesitant to dive in without manual. sorry dont know proper length of post.









By intermittent, you mean when you flip the head light switch some times they come on and some times they dont? If so then it is most likely a faulty head light switch. The contacts wear down over time as well the switch's plastic components begin to fall apart inside. 
Solution 1 
(Get a new switch)
Solution 2
(You can take the switch apart and clean the contacts and apply some contact grease to improve the connection. Some times just taking it apart and emptying the broken plastic parts out works as well. This works for Corrado's and MK2's)


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets sta ... ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Solution 2
(You can take the switch apart and clean the contacts and apply some contact grease to improve the connection. Some times just taking it apart and emptying the broken plastic parts out works as well. This works for Corrado's and MK2's) 

just be careful to put it back together correctly, cause things fall out of it when taking it apart


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets sta ... (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
just be careful to put it back together correctly, cause things fall out of it when taking it apart










Good point Mike,
Like the "Oh Jesus!!!" springs that have a tendency to make it into sub-orbit. That has to be followed by the mandatory "Where the F*** did that go!"
Best I have found is to take them apart on a towel so that nothing can bounce that far away.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets sta ... ([email protected])*

i actually put them in a ziplock bag, and disassemble them with the bag CLOSED. that way, nothing escapes


----------



## mustloveclutch (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets sta ... ([email protected])*

ok im very very cheap, so ill clean the contacts and hope that works. thanks for the warning about the springs; ive been guilty of pulling apart things full of springs then swearing for hours as i search my yard with a refrigerator magnet into the night.


----------



## mustloveclutch (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets sta ... (mustloveclutch)*

ziplock bag- brilliant. thanks.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
*Jared: * you likely need to adjust the 4 screws in that pic i posted (circled in red)

would that explain why when I push the button to slide the sunroof back, it just drops down a little (as if its about to slide open) and stops, without any further motor operation or sliding? 
Like I said earlier, it does pop-up and closed with no trouble.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: ([email protected])*

jared, something sounds stuck bro.


----------



## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Mine did the same thing, it was catching on something and needed to be realigned.


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_jared, something sounds stuck bro. 

as in, needs adjustment or something is inside there?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: ([email protected])*

personally, i would pull the headliner, B and C pillars, and operate the SR, see what is happening. if need be, drop the roof down, and try it. you will see if something is getting stuck or not. 
sounds like an alignment issue


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*

thanks man...








sounds like a weekend project


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: ([email protected])*

should take you no more that 40 minutes to pull a sunroof out bro. 
also, just a heads up, i need others to come in here and answer questions cause there is alot of stuff i don't know, so everyone please spread the word and help out








thanks!


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *1broknrado* »_



what do you think about my timing chain issue mike?


_Modified by 1broknrado at 12:27 PM 6-17-2009_


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (1broknrado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1broknrado* »_
what do you think about my timing chain issue mike?

_Modified by 1broknrado at 12:27 PM 6-17-2009_

timmay! just so others know, your high compression head gasket is what is making you "seem" off, but you are fine. MK4 gaskets and LOW compression HG's will make things line up a WEEEEE bit different, but you are safe homie.


----------



## Cor32rado (Jun 5, 2006)

*Blinker issue*

Hello. I am having issues with my blinkers. When I put my blinkers on to turn, sometimes they operate perfectly fine, and other times the green blinker light come on inside the car and stays on while the stalk is positioned to signal, but the blinker light on the outside of the car does not light up at all. I have had both instances happen in the same turn, where I will signal and it will work fine and then just get "stuck". And then there are other times where I signal and the light stays on, and then for no apparent reason it will start blinking...








I want to get this fixed so I can start complaining about other people not signaling again







(without being a hypocrite)


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## NeverOEM (Dec 17, 2007)

if this car wasn't so cool, I'd hate it with an undying passion.
Coolant box thing and hood release cable added to the list.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: Blinker issue (Cor32rado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cor32rado* »_Hello. I am having issues with my blinkers. When I put my blinkers on to turn, sometimes they operate perfectly fine, and other times the green blinker light come on inside the car and stays on while the stalk is positioned to signal, but the blinker light on the outside of the car does not light up at all. I have had both instances happen in the same turn, where I will signal and it will work fine and then just get "stuck". And then there are other times where I signal and the light stays on, and then for no apparent reason it will start blinking...








I want to get this fixed so I can start complaining about other people not signaling again







(without being a hypocrite)

likely relay # 23 (the 3 prong one) that is for the flashers and turns
had the same issue a while ago, and that was the culprit.


----------



## Cor32rado (Jun 5, 2006)

*Re: Blinker issue (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
likely relay # 23 (the 3 prong one) that is for the flashers and turns
had the same issue a while ago, and that was the culprit. 

Do you have a part number and/or a good place to get that relay from?


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: Blinker issue (Cor32rado)*

http://www.bimmerparts.com

http://www.bimmerparts.com/Sho...de=PA


----------



## mk4chris (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: (VR SEX)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VR SEX* »_
how are all the vacuum lines....
replacing crappy vac lines is usually a great place to start when tuning up a g60

i have replaced all vacuum lines and i have sprayed all boost tubes and very where around the engine with carbeurator cleaner and nothing. MFA still says am 140 at idle and my rpms still take for ever to back down to regular idle speed and it usually sticks at 1k rpm. dont know what it could be when i unplug the blue coolent sensor it runs super rich and bogs down to way low rpm's now when i unplug the o2 sensor it does nothing really but would a bad o2 sensor make the MFA read like i have a vacuum leak







some one please help me http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (mk4chris)*

_Modified by [email protected] at 10:14 AM 6-18-2009_


----------



## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (02GTIFREESKIER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *02GTIFREESKIER* »_
1.Is there anything particularly difficult about replacing the rear main seal on the VR6? I have done a few clutches, and replaced a few transmissions on 1.8t's, 8v's, chevs, etc. But never done a rear main.


Bump for this question please.


----------



## mk4chris (Mar 4, 2008)

ok i think i have another problem after u turned the car off and take the key out i could still here the fuel pump pumping and fan stays on for way long. i dont think this is normal is it?


----------



## kevwithoutacorrado (Jun 9, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
*blink codes suck, get a proper vag reading cause i have no time to look up all those codes. 
i am calling CTS or O2 though. also, could just be a bad coil pack. *


o2 and cts were very old, so replaced. same issues. coilpack is 2 years old. anyone in southern oregon with a vag-com?


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## reborndub (Jun 18, 2009)

*Re: (mk4chris)*

thats norm. mine does the same thing, my fan will kick back on 10 mins after ive shut down. it has alot to do w/ having the key in


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## mk4chris (Mar 4, 2008)

so i replaced the 02 sensor and now when i disconnect the blue coolent sensor it actually stays on not just die. also i have very inconsitent boost feels like boost is kicking in to late now not sure what could cause all this.


_Modified by mk4chris at 12:21 AM 6-18-2009_


----------



## vdubCorrado (Nov 8, 2001)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
also, just a heads up, i need others to come in here and answer questions cause there is alot of stuff i don't know, so everyone please spread the word and help out








thanks!

i think you feel you're answering most of the questions mainly because well, you are haha, but you seem to troll more than alotof us









_Quote, originally posted by *mk4chris* »_so i replaced the 02 sensor and now when i disconnect the blue coolent sensor it actually stays on not just die. also i have very inconsitent boost feels like boost is kicking in to late now not sure what could cause all this.

_Modified by mk4chris at 12:21 AM 6-18-2009_

why'd you replace the O2 sensor and not the blue water temp? it was probably half the price of the O2 sensor if you went with the universal








if you disconnect the O2 sensor and it still doesnt run right that ment you had a problem elsewhere...
that blue water temp sensor is a nightmare in a G60 if it's not working properly as it sends information directly to the ECU. the black one is for the gauge cluster so you could see a completely normal temp on your gauges and your ECU could see only god knows what...
a G60 is supercharged, belt driven, boost will always be generated at the same rate provided you're still in the same altitude. so if it's building boost slower you have a vacuum leak, leaky boost hose, leaky IC (and if it is, probably a cracked end cap), or your charger is giving out...
i personally am not the right guy to tell you what those MFA numbers mean as i have never used them. if my G60 isnt running right i replace known problems and resolve my issue so i can't help with the #'s... sorry on that one...


----------



## Cor32rado (Jun 5, 2006)

*Re: Blinker issue (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_http://www.bimmerparts.com

http://www.bimmerparts.com/Sho...de=PA


Thanks!!!!


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: Blinker issue (Cor32rado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk4chris* »_ok i think i have another problem after u turned the car off and take the key out i could still here the fuel pump pumping and fan stays on for way long. i dont think this is normal is it?

*on both of my G60's this happened all the time, and i was told it was normal. someone else may be able to confirm that. *


_Quote, originally posted by *kevwithoutacorrado* »_
o2 and cts were very old, so replaced. same issues. coilpack is 2 years old. anyone in southern oregon with a vag-com?

*google "vag com registry", you should be able to find someone local*


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: Blinker issue (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
*on both of my G60's this happened all the time, and i was told it was normal. someone else may be able to confirm that. *


My G60's did the same thing...Never seemed to cause a problem.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk4chris* »_so i replaced the 02 sensor and now when i disconnect the blue coolent sensor it actually stays on not just die. also i have very inconsitent boost feels like boost is kicking in to late now not sure what could cause all this.


The inconsistent boost is either a boost leak, isv bleeding boost. I would suggest checking the boost tubes and hose clamps, and get a check valve for the ISV from techtonics tuning, also get an ISV reroute. The combo of these should help tremendously. The check valve alone made a HUGE difference the driveability when I had a G60.

_Quote, originally posted by *mk4chris* »_ok i think i have another problem after u turned the car off and take the key out i could still here the fuel pump pumping and fan stays on for way long. i dont think this is normal is it?


The after run is normal, this is due to the after run switch on the head of a G60, It does this to prevent vapor lock from heat. My Digi 2 car does this also.


----------



## SLC Simo (Jan 23, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

For the C Gods, a sunroof switch question.
I had the sunroof tilted up the other day, went to close her up and got nothing from the inside switch.
Then went to lock her up w/ key and the sunroof closed, windows up and locked as usual.
So the sunroof motor is fine, can I assume its the inside sunroof switch that needs replacing.
Cheers to all 
Simo


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## omega260 (May 16, 2009)

Heres a question... why is this car so much damn fun to even sit in... i hate german engineering cuz they hypnotize ur brain and i just cant stop staring at the thing... then i gotta sit in it... then i gotta hound my dad for hours just so he can sit in the front seet so i can drive it down the streat... is there a medical condition for this


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

*Re: (omega260)*

You need to get your licence already


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## mk4chris (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
The inconsistent boost is either a boost leak, isv bleeding boost. I would suggest checking the boost tubes and hose clamps, and get a check valve for the ISV from techtonics tuning, also get an ISV reroute. The combo of these should help tremendously. The check valve alone made a HUGE difference the driveability when I had a G60.

The after run is normal, this is due to the after run switch on the head of a G60, It does this to prevent vapor lock from heat. My Digi 2 car does this also.


ok so now i got it running pretty smooth but still have inconsistent boost some times is strong down low and sometimes nothing dow low and very strong up top







i dont know what it could be.
maybe i should give you my specs
i have a neuseed hp II kit with a 68mm pulley 
ISV reroute 
and rsr outlet 
dont know what it could i have searched every where for a vaccum leack i even rplaced all of them. took the front bumper off to cheak the IC and tubes and couldnt find anything srayed the everywhere with carbeuretor cleaner and nothing dont know what it could be any other ideas.
oh also today after driving it for a while the car the car started missing and then just died. had to wait for it to cool down a bit and the started fine







some one please help


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk4chris* »_

ok so now i got it running pretty smooth but still have inconsistent boost some times is strong down low and sometimes nothing dow low and very strong up top







i dont know what it could be.
maybe i should give you my specs
i have a neuseed hp II kit with a 68mm pulley 
ISV reroute 
and rsr outlet 
dont know what it could i have searched every where for a vaccum leack i even rplaced all of them. took the front bumper off to cheak the IC and tubes and couldnt find anything srayed the everywhere with carbeuretor cleaner and nothing dont know what it could be any other ideas.
oh also today after driving it for a while the car the car started missing and then just died. had to wait for it to cool down a bit and the started fine







some one please help


Sometimes leaks wont show up with just carb cleaner. Ever build a presure tester? Might come in handy right about now.
Also get the damn check valve! It is a must if you have a smaller pulley etc.
Hows the general state of the engine? Stuff like cap and rotor been done? Blue coolant temp sensor? Also might want to get a knock sensor dampener from TT. Hows your ignition timing look? Digi doesn't like the timing being off it will try to compensate one way or the other. If the knocksensor, blue coolant temp sensor, or oxygen sensor are bad then the car will go into a sort of limp mode. You could be hitting this.


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## mk4chris (Mar 4, 2008)

o2 sensor has being replaced together with the cap and roter. just orderd a blue temp sensor not sure if the knock sensor is good or not is there any way to cheack if it is ? also all timing marks aligne fine but will be changing the timing belt tomorrow so timing will be re- done. i will try to do all this and will post back. could it be that i maybe the neuspeed hp kit isnt enough and i need a chip?
another thing do i still need a one way cheak valve for the isv even though i have the reroute










_Modified by mk4chris at 10:25 PM 6-18-2009_


----------



## Z-Raddo G60 (Nov 8, 2007)

*Re: (mk4chris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk4chris* »_...if the knock sensor is good or not is there any way to cheack if it is ? ...maybe the neuspeed hp kit isnt enough and i need a chip?
...do i still need a one way cheak valve for the isv even though i have the reroute

Knock sensor should be replaced if the casing is bad, black shielding going the entire length of wire. Should be replaced as part of maintenance too, not sure after what time frame or number of miles, they do go bad. Without "on-board diagnostic capability cannot have the knock sensor funtionality checked," per Bentley. I am under the impression all G60's do not have the ability to do ANY engine function checking. The complaint however would read "high speed not attainable", again per Bentley. Things to look for in a bad knock sensor: disconnected wiring, corroded terminals, shield damage, mounting bolt incorrectly torqued (must be 20 Nm or 15 ft lb.), abnormal engine noises (duh).
If you are on an OEM chip, it may be faulty; electronics go bad over time, codes become illegiable. I opted to go to a Stg I SNS tuning to replace my OEM chip. I ended up sending in my OEM chip for diagnostics to see if it was still good, it turns out it was on the way out. Glad to have it replaced.








You do not need a check valve if you have the reroute, and you don't really need the reroute if you adjust your ISV, there is an thread in the faq's for adjusting the ISV.


_Modified by Z-Raddo G60 at 12:46 AM 6-19-2009_


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## mk4chris (Mar 4, 2008)

i did adjusted and left the reroute just in case.
idles alot smoother now even though i have to wait a few minutes before i could drive it or else it stumbles and sounds like it back fires. after a few minutes idles good but its a little slow to come back to idle after i press on the throttle. and boost is inconsistent sometime i feel the boost kick in right away and sometimes it kicks in after 3,500 rpm very weird and today after i did a fw passes up and down the street i stoped and noticed it was missing and it got worst and eventuly died had to wait a few minutes before i was able to start it.


----------



## vdubCorrado (Nov 8, 2001)

*Re: (mk4chris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk4chris* »_i and boost is inconsistent sometime i feel the boost kick in right away and sometimes it kicks in after 3,500 rpm.

anyone else feeling bad ignition switch?


----------



## mk4chris (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: (vdubCorrado)*








any way to test the ignition switch i ran out of money but will order a bentley as soon as i can. if there is away to test it please let me know thanks.
would that cause more of a start problems because i dont have a start problem










_Modified by mk4chris at 1:25 AM 6-19-2009_


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Chris I ment ignition timing. Is it at 6* BTDC? Check it with a timing light on the flywheel
And no way to test an ignition switch, they are cheap insurance, just replace it.


----------



## omega260 (May 16, 2009)

*Re: (JamesS)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JamesS* »_You need to get your licence already









I know







July 8th http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## ryanarchy (Nov 27, 2008)

*Re: (omega260)*

So i was in the junkyard yesterday and found a monowiper scirocco 1. i took the motor and bracket and electrical plug. anybody know an easy way to adapt this to the Corrado? A good link? or am i on my own?


----------



## Z-Raddo G60 (Nov 8, 2007)

*Re: (ryanarchy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ryanarchy* »_So i was in the junkyard yesterday and found a monowiper scirocco 1. i took the motor and bracket and electrical plug. anybody know an easy way to adapt this to the Corrado? A good link? or am i on my own?









i just did this same thing...LOL, the best move I have made, other than eurowires NA headlight relays and euro seatbelts!
all the links i read and photos of my set up if needed:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4200275
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=911985
http://www.pocketrocket.ca/single_wiper.html
http://www.corrado-club.com/fa...ID=44
http://www.corradocentral.com/monowiper.htm
btw: I followed the redrill/remount the corrado motor mentioned in one of these to make room, also, the exisiting wiring for the wiper motor needed to be 'loosened' to make up the needed length.
Great score btw! I paid $50 for my set up.
My photobucket album with the setup, limited as it may be, it's in there.
http://s254.photobucket.com/al...e/DIY/


_Modified by Z-Raddo G60 at 1:13 PM 6-19-2009_


----------



## mk4chris (Mar 4, 2008)

ok so today i went to started created a pressure tester out of pcv caps and found a leack so fixed it and went of idle was good and everything. went for a drive boost was instent and it hit hard but when i got to about 4k rpm it felt like it just went away boost no more and it would go up in rpm very/super slow tested it maybe 3 times more and same thing after on the fourth try againg car felt slower like it was loosing boost againg but this time it rpm,s would not stop. so from some reasson it wouldnt go in rpm's when it feals like it has lots of boost and when it doesent it feels fine. another thing it would only do the weird rpm thing in gear when i would rev it in neutral it was ok. any one have ny ideas should i maybe make a video ? or am i explaining my self ok let me know if any one has any ideas please


----------



## 91GSiXTY (Jun 11, 2001)

*Re: (mk4chris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk4chris* »_ok so today i went to started created a pressure tester out of pcv caps and found a leack so fixed it and went of idle was good 

How much pressure did you use to test? if your pushing 12psi test at 14psi. etc.
sound like you have a leak higher. but ya get a video, or explain better.


----------



## ratatat (Nov 28, 2008)

*Re: (91GSiXTY)*

I have a question about anything else I should do/replace before I try starting up my engine again (G60)
1. flushed the old fuel from the tank and cleaned it out
2, just finished up replacing and setting timing, I think I have it dead on
3. going to change out the fuel filter as soon as I go pick one up( tomorrow)
is there anything else I should do to my car before I crank over it again?
I am pretty sure it was off time when I last tried started it, as it would misfire and back fire in random intervals. The fuel pump is working, or should still be. I bought it nonrunning, so I unfortunately dont know all of what was done or exactly went wrong. So I am hoping you guys have some ideas for me
Thank in advance, Sean
would love to hear it run, really would get the fire under my butt to finish it up, I mean I love to look at in our barn and all, buuuuut......
spark plugs were wet, but i kind've figure that was from trying to run it and it not firing and burning up most of the gas



_Modified by ratatat at 8:20 PM 6-20-2009_


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## mk4chris (Mar 4, 2008)

when doing a boost leak test with the pcv pipes do i cap of the isv reroute part? because i cant hold any pressure if i dont, seems to be coming out of the throttle body so its going through the isv into the intake mani and out past the t-body. could some one explain what could be wrong is my throttle body sticking open ?


_Modified by mk4chris at 12:28 AM 6-21-2009_


----------



## mk4chris (Mar 4, 2008)

bump


----------



## Lorenmws (Nov 29, 2008)

Ok so here's my problem, I bought a 92 SLC OBDI VR6 from a guy about a month and a half ago. When I got it the P.O. told me that the ignition coil was sketchy and needed to be replaced. He said he had been arcing the coil bolts to get it to start again. Well It ran when I first got it and then the it started to just randomly shut off while it was running. It had a very rough idle too. Then it just stopped running one day all together. Well in the middle of all this I realized I needed a new battery, I got it and the thing started right back up like there was no problems. Hadn't bought a coil yet either. Drove it for like four days then it slowly started feeling a little hesitant. Came out one day and it wouldn't start at all. Then I had a buddy come over and he jumped the ecm relay and the thing started up like nothing was wrong. So I went and got the replacement relay and it drove fine. A couple of days ago I sea-foamed the car and changed the oil. Up until an hour ago the car was running awesome. Idle as smooth as glass and it ran extremely quiet. Then on the way home it started feeling hesitant around 3k rpm and once I got past that it would be fine. Well almost got home and the thing completely shut down on me while around 3k in first gear. Walked home and got my Truck. Tried to jump start it with my truck and that did nothing. So I thought back to the P.O. and I arced the coil and the thing started up.







So this whole thing sounds like a very easy fix - Buy a new coil but why would the thing run for days and then just quit? Would arcing the coil reset something else too? A buddy of mine that has a 92 corrado said it might be a bad ignition switch. I'm new at this whole thing so please be kind http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Thanks


----------



## itskmill06 (Dec 23, 2005)

*Re: (Lorenmws)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lorenmws* »_Idle as smooth as glass and it ran extremely quiet. Then on the way home it started feeling hesitant around 3k rpm and once I got past that it would be fine. Well almost got home and the thing completely shut down on me while around 3k in first gear. Walked home and got my Truck. Tried to jump start it with my truck and that did nothing. So I thought back to the P.O. and I arced the coil and the thing started up.







So this whole thing sounds like a very easy fix - Buy a new coil but why would the thing run for days and then just quit? Would arcing the coil reset something else too? A buddy of mine that has a 92 corrado said it might be a bad ignition switch. I'm new at this whole thing so please be kind http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Thanks

See, this sounds alot like my problem also. 'Cept mine's a G60. Similar problem though, it will run fine for a few days, a week even, then it will start cutting out on me, then it will eventually just die, won't start again very quickly. I have heard that it could be the coil, even ignition switch... but why would the switch cause this? All the time's I've had to replace my ignition switch, it would just turn, no cranking, no nothing, and sometimes the lights would flicker


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

check the coil wiring.
And the ignition switch would easily cause this.


----------



## itskmill06 (Dec 23, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_check the coil wiring.
And the ignition switch would easily cause this.

not saying you're wrong at all, but i've had to replace my ignition switch at least 6 times, and I've never known it to be related to cutting engine power/spark. How does it affect it in that way? It's a cheap and easy fix though, so I might do it simply for the fact that it's been a good year since I've changed mine; on my G60 that seems too long


----------



## Cor32rado (Jun 5, 2006)

*Re: Blinker issue (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_http://www.bimmerparts.com

http://www.bimmerparts.com/Sho...de=PA









I just went to that page to order this part, and noticed that this turn signal relay is for a VR6. Does the G60 have the same relay?? When I entered in the info for the 1990 G60 all that came up that was turn signal related was this "turn signal switch"


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: Blinker issue (Cor32rado)*

i just checked in WorldPac and it looks like that relay fits just about every vw from the 70s-90s... the G60 was not listed specifically, but its a pretty safe bet that its the same... someone correct me if i'm way off here....


----------



## mk4chris (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: (mk4chris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk4chris* »_when doing a boost leak test with the pcv pipes do i cap of the isv reroute part? because i cant hold any pressure if i dont, seems to be coming out of the throttle body so its going through the isv into the intake mani and out past the t-body. could some one explain what could be wrong is my throttle body sticking open ?

_Modified by mk4chris at 12:28 AM 6-21-2009_

any body have any answears on this. if it was getting through the isv would that be unmessured air the MAP would not be reading it right







isnt the ISV closed when the car is off







am a little confused over this. some help please


----------



## mk4chris (Mar 4, 2008)

ok so today i re did my timing and the car idles a lot smother feels way better. but still boost comes on and off its very inconsistent.
i have cheaked and am pretty sure i have no vacuum leacks i have replaced all vaccum hoses. dont kno what the problem could be i have replace everything cap,roter, o2 sensor, blue coolent temp sensor, knock sensor and nothing helps does any one have any ideas
thanks


----------



## ein (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (mk4chris)*

Just a thought... you probably did this but just checking. The hose to the ECU? Has to be the factory one ( dia ) and *exactly*one meter long. How are your lifters? Are they quiet? Noisy lifters will set off the knock sensor. The problem you are describing sounds like timing. Has the Sensor in the boost tube just before the throttle body been messed with? This sensor if screwed with will play havoc with the ECU. There are threads on how to set the sensor but from what I understand you NEED a 5 gas analyzer. The G60 gurus might know a trick for this. Is the knock sensor new or new to you? The G60 uses a specific sensor IIRC and the car needs this sensor to be perfect and torqued right or it will act funny. Just throwing this stuff out there. Maybe it will help clarify for the gurus on here.


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## mk4chris (Mar 4, 2008)

the sensor before the throttle body has being messed with i cheaked its resisteance and it was set at 875 some one told me to set it to 450 so i did and the car ran a bit smooother. the knock sensor is new to me not new but looks like new way better then the one i had on there before. the lifters sound fine not loud at all. i might try disconnecting the knock sensor and running like that to see if thats it but am guessing it will run worst. i hooked up a vacuum gauge to it and it was set at about 14 inch. not sure if thats right. not sure what it could be it seems almost like when i hit the rev limiter in my mk4 cuts off power compleately and then seconds later kicks back on and snaps your head back the thing is that its never in the same place in the powerband it alwas different or in multiple ranges. am thinking its either timing or fuel maybe not sure . any one have any ideas


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

if the knock sensor disconnected doesnt run worse then its a bad knock sensor, the switches on the throttle body need to be fully functional unless you are using one of SNS's stage 5 tunes.
Hows the ignition timing? I told you to check that a while ago. Make sure its @ the factory marks other wise the ECU tries to do a bunch of compensation and you loose power


----------



## mk4chris (Mar 4, 2008)

i put in a new timing belt on. The ignition timing was off. Nnow is set perfect and it idles so much smoother and if i dirve it slow its really smooth but as soon as i get on it has this problem. am going to try to disconnecting the knock sensor and am going to double cheak the throttle body switches. ill post back when am done.
thanks


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk4chris* »_i put in a new timing belt on. The ignition timing was off. Nnow is set perfect and it idles so much smoother and if i dirve it slow its really smooth but as soon as i get on it has this problem. am going to try to disconnecting the knock sensor and am going to double cheak the throttle body switches. ill post back when am done.
thanks 



When you did the ignition timing did you use a timing light to check it on the crank?


----------



## ein (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Kyle has the dowel pin'd main pulley been brought up? Might be losing power because its slipping. I just did a 16V with a bad crank pulley (the toothed one ). Similar issues the car ran like ish because the key on the toothed timing gear that bolts to the crank had worn away.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *ein* »_Kyle has the dowel pin'd main pulley been brought up? Might be losing power because its slipping. I just did a 16V with a bad crank pulley (the toothed one ). Similar issues the car ran like ish because the key on the toothed timing gear that bolts to the crank had worn away.


I don't think that is the issue he is running into Rob. Everytime I have had an issue with that it has been the engine looses static timing and wont start or has a ton of trouble starting and when it finally does it runs rough.
It is something to do as an "incaseshithappens" type of thing. yes that is one word


----------



## ein (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Werd. I just re-read the last couple posts and I see where you're headed with this.


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (ein)*

Havent read thread in week, still in Cali on business, will read all pages when I get back to a real computer. iPhone browsing gets old real fast.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *ein* »_Werd. I just re-read the last couple posts and I see where you're headed with this.


Hopefully the guy that is having the issue understands it too. Think issues digi2 has with timing and you will know exactly where im going with it.
Unfortunately I know more about digi management than any other management... You know only 6 wires need to be swapped to plug a digi 1 ecu into a digi2 harness?


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## ein (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
You know only 6 wires need to be swapped to plug a digi 1 ecu into a digi2 harness?

We're gonna have to chat about this... my motor is on its way out. Might be time to add a "muffler".


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *ein* »_
We're gonna have to chat about this... my motor is on its way out. Might be time to add a "muffler".


Its super easy. You will be in awe when I show you how simple the conversion is... Rotory muffler? What is your email address I have everything in a doc file


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

got a little idea maybe you helpful people can help me along with:
The city lights that use an annoying little bulb that is only available in that "bleah" color has got me annoyed. I am just about to put an HID kit on my Corrado and I would like to run some white light 194 bulbs in there, like an LED from 42 draft designs or something. Maybe a Golf or Passat or something used a 194 with a big socket size like the corrado?
Here's the question: Is there a 194 bulb socket / harness that will fit into the receptacle on the corrado headlight?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_got a little idea maybe you helpful people can help me along with:
The city lights that use an annoying little bulb that is only available in that "bleah" color has got me annoyed. I am just about to put an HID kit on my Corrado and I would like to run some white light 194 bulbs in there, like an LED from 42 draft designs or something. Maybe a Golf or Passat or something used a 194 with a big socket size like the corrado?
Here's the question: Is there a 194 bulb socket / harness that will fit into the receptacle on the corrado headlight? 

Why dont you just run the LED bulbs that are made for the stock socket?


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

i haven't been able to find an LED replacement for that bulb type though...


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_i haven't been able to find an LED replacement for that bulb type though...

http://superbrightleds.com http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## mk4chris (Mar 4, 2008)

so i discoonected the knock sensor and it seems to do it more consistent now now it just has no power between 3k and 4k just falls on its face with the knowck sensor connected its either higher up or all over the place


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

thanks! Ill check it out...


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk4chris* »_so i discoonected the knock sensor and it seems to do it more consistent now now it just has no power between 3k and 4k just falls on its face with the knowck sensor connected its either higher up or all over the place 


My vote is still ignition timing... Check it again. see where its at, also how are your grounds? Might want to scrape em off and reground everything.
I would replace the knock sensor since they do go out. Did you every buy a knock sensor dampener? Do it, it helps


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## mk4chris (Mar 4, 2008)

does any one have a diagram of where all the grounds are at. also i dont know if its inportant but it only does it while in gear if i just rev it in neutral everything seems fine.


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (mk4chris)*

one other dumb question... after taking the little screw out of the bottom, how do I get the black "frame" off of the rearview mirrors (so I can check the motor?)


----------



## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

*Re: (mk4chris)*

ok, I'll bite. 
1990 g60. I started having problems starting it about a month ago. On the first start, it turns over, and almost catches, but never does. Second start, it'll fire right up, but stumbles a bit on the idle for the first minute of running. 1/4 mile into driving it, everything is fine. Car runs fine after being warmed up. Changed the check valve for the vacuum system, thought that was the problem (it was cracked). Also changed out the dist. cap and rotor, they were due. 
Vacuum problem? Fuel/fuel pump problem?
Any other ideas?
It feels like an old carb car, where the seal to the bowl is cracked, and the fuel is drying out, thus causing the fuel pump to pull fuel from the tank. (Yeah, I had 2 bmw 2002s). I'd just dump gas in the carb to start it.
thanks, 
Lloyd


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## mk4chris (Mar 4, 2008)

i think i fixed it i took out the sensor before the t-body and had it the resistance at 450 so i bumped it up to 500 and the problem is very minimanl now so am going to bump it a little more and see if i could get rid of it all together now does this seem right.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_one other dumb question... after taking the little screw out of the bottom, how do I get the black "frame" off of the rearview mirrors (so I can check the motor?)


I will check ETKA tomorrow to see how they are assembled

_Quote, originally posted by *lmurray* »_ok, I'll bite. 
1990 g60. I started having problems starting it about a month ago. On the first start, it turns over, and almost catches, but never does. Second start, it'll fire right up, but stumbles a bit on the idle for the first minute of running. 1/4 mile into driving it, everything is fine. Car runs fine after being warmed up. Changed the check valve for the vacuum system, thought that was the problem (it was cracked). Also changed out the dist. cap and rotor, they were due. 
Vacuum problem? Fuel/fuel pump problem?
Any other ideas?
It feels like an old carb car, where the seal to the bowl is cracked, and the fuel is drying out, thus causing the fuel pump to pull fuel from the tank. (Yeah, I had 2 bmw 2002s). I'd just dump gas in the carb to start it.
thanks, 
Lloyd


Blue coolant temp sensor is bad, replace it and replace the plugs I bet they are fouled out

_Quote, originally posted by *mk4chris* »_i think i fixed it i took out the sensor before the t-body and had it the resistance at 450 so i bumped it up to 500 and the problem is very minimanl now so am going to bump it a little more and see if i could get rid of it all together now does this seem right.


The CO Pot sensor??? You are never supposed to touch those. It requires a special calibration tool to get them right. Doing them open air with a ohm meter does not work.


----------



## kjperry (Sep 22, 2006)

*Re: (lmurray)*


_Quote, originally posted by *lmurray* »_ok, I'll bite. 
1990 g60. I started having problems starting it about a month ago. On the first start, it turns over, and almost catches, but never does. Second start, it'll fire right up, but stumbles a bit on the idle for the first minute of running. 1/4 mile into driving it, everything is fine. Car runs fine after being warmed up. Changed the check valve for the vacuum system, thought that was the problem (it was cracked). Also changed out the dist. cap and rotor, they were due. 
Vacuum problem? Fuel/fuel pump problem?
Any other ideas?
It feels like an old carb car, where the seal to the bowl is cracked, and the fuel is drying out, thus causing the fuel pump to pull fuel from the tank. (Yeah, I had 2 bmw 2002s). I'd just dump gas in the carb to start it.
thanks, 
Lloyd

My guess is the check valve for the fuel line. Mine does almost the same thing. I had it in the shop a while back for a different issue and they were checking the fuel pressure. Well they left the gauge on the car all night to see if it was hold pressure in the line. Sure enough when they came back in the morning the pressure had dropped more than it should have. They said the check valve was in the fuel tank inside the fuel pump. I haven't gotten around the changing mine yet.
When my car sits for a while I'll turning the ignition on for a bit before I crank the car, then it fires right up.


----------



## ein (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Its super easy. You will be in awe when I show you how simple the conversion is... Rotory muffler? What is your email address I have everything in a doc file

PM sent


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

ok so i tried starting my car tonight and it cranks over but there is no spark or fuel pump...
maybe no power to the ECU? i also have the main ground wire on the inside of the car on the dist. block that is there OEM, MAF and blue coolant sensor were not plugged in either....all other ground wires were connected to the valve cover stud.


----------



## mk4chris (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_

The CO Pot sensor??? You are never supposed to touch those. It requires a special calibration tool to get them right. Doing them open air with a ohm meter does not work.

some one had played with it before the tamper proof plug was out already and it was set way high. i turned it down to 450 ohms and then decided to bump it up a bit and the problem went away







not sure why the probem would go away


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_one other dumb question... after taking the little screw out of the bottom, how do I get the black "frame" off of the rearview mirrors (so I can check the motor?)

I have been wondering about this too. Someone told me that once the glass is removed the black frame is connected by clips to the mirror housing. 
I will be dismantling mine soon and hopefully they come apart without breaking anything.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Here's the question: Is there a 194 bulb socket / harness that will fit into the receptacle on the corrado headlight? 

yep, it is white, and came on alot of later cars with NA lights. i have two of them i can send you for a small fee.....


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (1broknrado)*

timmy, hook up those sensors and grounds ya nutcase. also, check load reduction relay for proper function. 
wow, i have like 4 pages to go back and read, i will do it when i get back to PA


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
yep, it is white, and came on alot of later cars with NA lights. i have two of them i can send you for a small fee.....

hey thanx anyway... i found some white LED BA9S from 42 draft designs!


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

Anyone have a how-to or tips on lubricating the spoiler? Mine works fine but right when its at the top makes a nasty squeaking noise. I tried white grease on the "posts" but to no avail...
How do I lube up my spoiler?!?


----------



## skaterazn (Jan 9, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Anyone have a how-to or tips on lubricating the spoiler? Mine works fine but right when its at the top makes a nasty squeaking noise. I tried white grease on the "posts" but to no avail...
How do I lube up my spoiler?!?


http://www.vwhowto.com/vwhowto...id/63
lube everything up?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (skaterazn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *skaterazn* »_
http://www.vwhowto.com/vwhowto...id/63


thanks that should help me out! how do you get that motor out? is there an easy way?


----------



## G0to60 (Jun 23, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
thanks that should help me out! how do you get that motor out? is there an easy way?

it's pretty straight forward to pull that motor (just did it recently) but it's kind of a pain.
Pull the plastic cover on the hatch. Each screw is only 1/4 turn so don't strip them.
The rest is just a matter of moving wires out of the way and unbolting the assembly. It does take some wiggling to get it out from the wiper and wiring but it just takes some patience.
While it's out you might want to also lube up the cables that raise and lower the spoiler. One of mine recently broke.


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (G0to60)*

I've got a good one for only the experienced: What is this awful rattling in my car? *You have to turn the volume up pretty loud. Try to ignore the exhaust note and focus on the "white noise". What sounds like ****ty audio quality is actually the rattle*. It sounds like a ball bearing in a tin can. Take note at the end, i take it out of gear and get NO RATTLE.
For a little background info; this is a g60 swapped to a stock 16v on digi1. 
youtube 

ALSO: this may be related; do I have a valve tap? Below is a vid of my car at idle. I've experienced lifter tap, but that usually goes away. THIS DOES NOT.
here 


_Modified by skaterhernandez4 at 3:22 PM 6-28-2009_


----------



## 1967ghia (Jan 28, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

I heard that having a grey stripe around the side of a rado gives it another 5hp, is this correct?


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (1967ghia)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1967ghia* »_I heard that having a grey stripe around the side of a rado gives it another 5hp, is this correct?

I think to see proper gains from said grey stripe one needs to pair it with dress socks on a daily basis.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (skaterhernandez4)*

what does this go to? the loom runs down the driver side towards the back. Thanks ahead of time...been hunting through the wiring diagram, but I guess I'm missing it..white/blue/black/brown/white-green wires in a blue 5 pin plug. you can see the path the wires are coming from underneath it (basically coming from in front of the drivers side rear coming up from the front possibly


----------



## pileofredparts (Mar 20, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_what does this go to? 

goes to the hatch wiring


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (pileofredparts)*

so that basically would run up the c pillar? do you know specifically to what though? thanks for the help


----------



## pileofredparts (Mar 20, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_so that basically would run up the c pillar? do you know specifically to what though? thanks for the help

yeah
looks like the rear defroster, etc


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (pileofredparts)*

bump for help 5 posts up ^^^^^


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (skaterhernandez4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *skaterhernandez4* »_bump for help 5 posts up ^^^^^

good call, i was gonna say:
*since i just got back, and am swamped, please re ask any Q's that were not answered while i was away. i just dont have the time to go back through*. 
Skater h 4, i will listen to the video at lunch.


----------



## vdubCorrado (Nov 8, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (skaterhernandez4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *skaterhernandez4* »_I've got a good one for only the experienced: What is this awful rattling in my car? *You have to turn the volume up pretty loud. Try to ignore the exhaust note and focus on the "white noise". What sounds like ****ty audio quality is actually the rattle*. It sounds like a ball bearing in a tin can. Take note at the end, i take it out of gear and get NO RATTLE.
For a little background info; this is a g60 swapped to a stock 16v on digi1. 
youtube 

ALSO: this may be related; do I have a valve tap? Below is a vid of my car at idle. I've experienced lifter tap, but that usually goes away. THIS DOES NOT.
here 

_Modified by skaterhernandez4 at 3:22 PM 6-28-2009_

i'm gonna say your rattle is a direct result of your exhaust being so damn loud haha... i actually can't clearly hear this rattle over the exhaust... is the exhaust "custom" or by an "aftermarket" company? 
as for valve tap... doesn't sound any different than any 16v i've ever had...


_Modified by vdubCorrado at 6:01 PM 6-29-2009_


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubCorrado)*

Thanks for the reply. I will try to capture another vid of the rattle; it is much more significant than the video portrayed. 
As for the valve tap, the reason I asked is because sometimes the starter cranks slowly. When it does this, it sounds as though something is smacking at TDC every rotation. If ppl are unfamiliar with my explanation I will try to capture that as well.
SH4


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (skaterhernandez4)*

Not trying to flood this thread. Here's a vid of my car; jumper cables are hooked up to a truck as I'm trying to start it. Starter is new. I wasn't pushing the clutch in if that makes any difference. My car RANDOMLY does this: 
null 

Please help!


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (skaterhernandez4)*

check voltage at battery and starter, and at starter jumper wire.


----------



## Corradowned (Oct 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

Couple of wiring questions...
I have a 1990 G60. First off, I have no dash or tag lights because the fuse keeps blowing. Happened after I washed the car before heading to a local gtg, thought the tag lights might have gotten water in the housing so I took that apart, bone dry. Next I figured the dimmer switch was the culprit, so I swapped the one out of the parts car I have. I had tag lights but no dash lights as far as I could tell, right up until I moved the dimmer switch then it blew the fuse again. Am I looking at purchasing another headlight switch, or am I looking at pulling the cluster out and trying to find a shorted / broken wire, or is there a way to fix the dimmer switch portion?
My other wiring question - the ground wire for my 02 sensor harness, on the side of the connector that goes to the ECU area, is broken right at the top of the plug. Is there a certain trick to getting that pin out to get a new wire in there? I managed to get the grommet out with a straight pick, but cant figure out how to get the pin itself out. I would just cut the plug off the parts car and splice it in, but unfortunately its just my luck that my parts car has the same exact problem


----------



## nofx1981 (Oct 24, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (Corradowned)*

These 2 threads might help with the connector pins:
http://www.corrado-club.ca/for...=4876 
http://www.corrado-club.ca/for...=9865 
There used to be a nice thread on there that explained exaxtly how to make the tool with measurements and all, but it seems to be gone....


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_check voltage at battery and starter, and at starter jumper wire. 

Came back 24hrs later, and it started right up. Not sure if batteries can gain charge by sitting? 
*There was battery acid seeping out of the top of my battery.* The battery measured 12.86 volts (car off) and the starter measured 12.79v. there is .1 ohms of resistance between the starter and battery positive terminals. (I run a 2 or 4 gauge power wire)


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (skaterhernandez4)*

Is it hot outside?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Non_Affiliated)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Non_Affiliated* »_Is it hot outside?

currently it is 64* and partly sunny with 90% humidity and a chance of isolated thunderstorms. Visibility is 3 km.


----------



## ein (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *ein* »_










Rob cracks me up.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

is the fuel pump afterrun in the G60 controlled of the fuel pump relay or something else? Mine seems to afterrun randomly, not every time i turn off the car.
It is supposed to have an afterrun, right?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

g60's have fuel pump after run to help cool things down (Kyle, chime in here) 
totally normal for it to be spurratic, as both of my G60's did this as well. 
again, kyle, chime in here. 


_Modified by Noobercorn at 3:07 PM 7-1-2009_


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

ok well thats good to know...
2nd question: coolant afterrun pump... I don't think Ive ever heard it run. My fan will kick on afterwards, is the pump on at the same time and therefore I just dont hear it? Is there a way to know if its working before startup or something?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

dammit, KYLE, where are you, yer my G60 expert!! 


_Modified by Noobercorn at 3:08 PM 7-1-2009_


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_yeah, if fans are on, yer after run pump should be as well. 
dammit, KYLE, where are you, yer my G60 expert!! 


Sorry I was off to lunch... MMM olive garden.
The after run cycle on a G60 is normal, circulates the fuel pump and the fans. There is no auxiliary coolant pump on a g60.
There is a switch on the top of the valve cover area that controls the afterrun, not the FCM.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

so to summarize:
there is no coolant afterrun on the G60
the fuel pump afterrun may not always, well, run
does the switch on the valve cover affect if it runs every time? should it run every time? Does it even matter??


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

ahhhh, i feel better already!!!! thanks kyle.
BTW, did you get the pic of punks bride i sent cha?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_so to summarize:
there is no coolant afterrun on the G60
the fuel pump afterrun may not always, well, run
does the switch on the valve cover affect if it runs every time? should it run every time? Does it even matter??


Only runs after a certain temperature is reached. Basically when **** is hot...
The fuel pump is circulated to prevent vapor lock, the fans to well cool **** down.


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_ahhhh, i feel better already!!!! thanks kyle.
BTW, did you get the pic of punks bride i sent cha? 


Totally did, Heather looked like she was having a blast. I keep forgetting to post it on her facebook.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

ok thanks doods!
...so the fans cool **** down? ohhhhhhhhh now i get it!


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

werd son, fans cool **** down! kyle is so dam scientific!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_werd son, fans cool **** down! kyle is so dam scientific! 


LULZ. I can get into the thermo dynamics of the situation if you'd like.
But i would probably be talking out my ass.
On the other hand I do know wiring very very well.


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (skaterhernandez4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *skaterhernandez4* »_
Came back 24hrs later, and it started right up. Not sure if batteries can gain charge by sitting? 
*There was battery acid seeping out of the top of my battery.* The battery measured 12.86 volts (car off) and the starter measured 12.79v. there is .1 ohms of resistance between the starter and battery positive terminals. (I run a 2 or 4 gauge power wire)








 





bump me up


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (skaterhernandez4)*

sounds like your drain is gone mysteriously. 
have you tried the "pull one fuse at a time until voltage jumps" trick? 
also, if acid is coming out of the battery, it MIGHT be a good time to replace bro


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

what does this go to? the loom runs down the driver side towards the back. Thanks ahead of time...been hunting through the wiring diagram, but I guess I'm missing it..white/blue/black/brown/white-green wires in a blue 5 pin plug
















then there's the 3 separate mysterious wires from the fuse panel that have been lengthened to go into the bay that are:
1. blue/black
2. blue/white
3. yellow
there's also a green/black one in the photo that maybe paired up with a yellow that goes to the horns up front....maybe that's the other one??


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*

and lastly...this plug in both doors....


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_sounds like your drain is gone mysteriously. 
have you tried the "pull one fuse at a time until voltage jumps" trick? 
also, if acid is coming out of the battery, it MIGHT be a good time to replace bro









Never thought about that! I'll see what I can do.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Dimitri how good are you at reading wiring diagrams?
and can you get higher quality pics of the wiring. i cant tell exactly what colors are on all the wires


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

I'm ok at it...been trying to figure out some stuff...but I don't have the bentley with me currently...I figured out a few things with Allen's help..
the first pic (of the plug in the back) is white/blue/black/brown/white-green wires in a blue 5 pin plug
the one in the door I'll post later when I'm in front of it


_Modified by dpgreek at 10:18 AM 7-2-2009_


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_I'm ok at it...been trying to figure out some stuff...but I don't have the bentley with me currently...I figured out a few things with Allen's help..
the first pic (of the plug in the back) is white/blue/black/brown/white-green wires in a blue 5 pin plug
the one in the door I'll post later when I'm in front of it


The bentley can be a bit of a pain to figure out wiring and what connectors go to what in.
I will do some digging if I get a chance to today and see what I come up with.


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_and lastly...this plug in both doors....









The 2 plugs in the doors are for the Door handles and the window regulators. I believe you are holding the harness for the handles.


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*

oh, there are 2 clips per door you will need to fasten the wires out of the way of the regulators travel!!!
do you know what im describing?


----------



## vdubCorrado (Nov 8, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (wzach)*

i need some help with...


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubCorrado)*









Err...you my friend....are fahked. 
Trying to wire in that mk4 harness to make the fuel pump prime when you open the door.....HAHAHAHAHAHA, all that work for just one little feature.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubCorrado)*

the one in the background does go to the door handle. The window is down so I can't thread it up.
the plug that goes to the door lock (with is at the edge of the door screwed in) is already in...so that one your saying is the one going to a regulator? where is it?


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*

the door handle harness will plug into one, and the regulator will plug into the other. you should have 2 connections fastened to the little bracket above the opening of the door. 
i think you are holding the other side of the door handle harness. if the plug from the door handle plugs into that one, the regulator should also have conncetor and another wire going to the window switch on the door panel. You probanly do not have that in there yet with the whole reassembly you are doing.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (wzach)*

the door handle plug is haninging in the background, so the one in my hand has to be the regulator. Is the regulator the mechanism in the door that also has the vacuum line on it? or is it higher up in the middle of the door.


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*








im a little lost now. haha
the window motor has a plug, and the door handle has a plug, there are 2 others that these connect too usually attached to that bracket. im pretty sure the one in your hand plugs into the handle harness as it has 3 wires. the 2 wire connector and harness is for the power window regualtor motor and switch attached to your door panel.


----------



## reborndub (Jun 18, 2009)

*Re: (reborndub)*

ive noticed that when you lock a door it runs the"CENTRAL LOCKING SYSTEM" which is suppose to lock everything by driv/pass door key.(mine just locks the fuel door)
there is a actuvatetor on pass side rear strut tower by fuel door that runs when this is activated. hense fuel pump sound. my will sound for a good 30-45 sec. just an idea of what you might be hearing.
thank vw for a owners manual


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

car doesnt start after putting battery in the back:
4ga power wire from starter to battery in rear
4ga ground wire from ground battery to rear seat beat bolt 
fuse block power wire running to back and mounted directly to battery
fuse block ground mounted inside cabin and all the lights and accessories work

BUTTT when i try to start it, it just clicks?
i believe the block needs to be grounded to chasis...how did u guys do this?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

try tapping on the starter with a hammer... 
Is the load reduction relay coming on?


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

when i turn the key, all i hear is the starter click.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (1broknrado)*

load reduction relay, or a dead battery timmy. 
window dude, i need better pix also. and if anyone needs a bentley, PM me, and send me a flash stick, i will PDF it and send it to you.


----------



## BLWN4BNGR (Mar 18, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (1broknrado)*

I got this... switch leads on your starter.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_load reduction relay, or a dead battery timmy. 
window dude, i need better pix also. and if anyone needs a bentley, PM me, and send me a flash stick, i will PDF it and send it to you. 


Or i have it hosted...


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (wzach)*

there was a damn plug hiding in there...so I think I got it..thanks for all the help


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

well i figured out it was 1 - because i forgot to put a fuse in the line connected to the battery and 2 - i need a ground strap going from motor to chasis. 
also whats the load reduction relay


_Modified by 1broknrado at 8:58 AM 7-3-2009_


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

ok so i got it running. i didnt have the ground strap from motor to chasis good enough so it runs...

but now my headlights won turn on...i have the power on the starter and the ground at the same spot i grounded motor at...but when i turn the headlight switch on i get nothing.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (1broknrado)*

no headlights? relay bad? load reduction sticking? switch bad? does the switch light up?


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

fixed the headlight problem. on the barrel harness, the ground wire ripped out a little bit, just had to shove it back in there.
new problems - battery not holding a charge ( need to check connections on battery with volt meter and check that blue wire, totally forgot about it)
custom fan relay not switching on from the radiator temp sensor...someone suggested to me that there may not be enough coolant in the radiator to hit the switch....i have to just double check the fluid levels.
maybe ill be pulling an all nighter with psucorrado (ryan) tomorrow night to get this thing on the road to the show sunday. blah....


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (1broknrado)*

timmy, are you in PA this weekend??????????


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

no CT rado run to hell man. come stay the night so u dont have to drive in the morning


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (1broknrado)*


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

what are these pieces?


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*

the top one I think is the mount for the door pannel which bolts to the door itself. Which interior are you using, early or late?
bottom







not sure. Where's Noob?


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (wzach)*

early interior from a 90....the bottom looks like a light cover


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

top one is deff the lower dash mount.


----------



## Sponge Bob (Jun 8, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

the lower pic is the light diffuser for the ash tray


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Sponge Bob)*

does the lower dash mount bolt up on the drivers side or passenger side


----------



## nofx1981 (Oct 24, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*

I'm pretty sure that bolts up in the middle, behind where the lower dash meets the shifter surround


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_does the lower dash mount bolt up on the drivers side or passenger side



_Quote, originally posted by *nofx1981* »_I'm pretty sure that bolts up in the middle, behind where the lower dash meets the shifter surround


Yup... i wish i had etka with me at work I would screen shot where it goes for you. It basically bolts to the tunnel and to the lower center portion of the dash.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

yal rock...thanks so much...I found it. It was being covered up by something. does it take 8 or 10 mm to bolt it down?
I have one more mysterious wire to inqure about...it's this one in the upper left part of the rear decklid. I was able to go through and figure out the rest of the rear deck wiring...but this one I'm missing. It's a 2 pin connector..with a brown/black wire in it.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

10mm bolt IIRC.
And that plug is for the backup lights.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

burninantor..thanks for all your help man. I'm assuming the back up light is in the tail light assembly?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_burninantor..thanks for all your help man. I'm assuming the back up light is in the tail light assembly?


No problem man. If your at H20 this year meet up with me and we will have to grab a few beers.
The backup light will be a secondary plug that should split off. somewhere in the hatch then to the tail lights.
I have been watching your build for a while, definitely some inspiration for my car.
-Kyle


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

I owe you several brews at h20...my god this wiring stuff is a PITA. I'm trying to figure out what goes where, etc... and I'm missing stuff, etc... it's been a nightmare. thanks for your help man. It'll be a miracle if I ever start this up and don't put it up in the classifieds before that


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_I owe you several brews at h20...my god this wiring stuff is a PITA. I'm trying to figure out what goes where, etc... and I'm missing stuff, etc... it's been a nightmare. thanks for your help man. It'll be a miracle if I ever start this up and don't put it up in the classifieds before that










I don't know how many times I have had the same thoughts. Keep it up, wiring isn't too bad I know it VERY well after swapping my entire car to a 93 harness so I can help.
Sweet im down for drinking my self stupid with other corrado owners again this year


----------



## veedubtek (Feb 1, 2003)

*FV-QR*

Dearest experts, 
Will the auto shipper I hired ever pick up my Corrado and deliver her to me? I grow weary of the growing parts stash I'm accumulating that I cannot install yet. I'm afraid I'm experiencing withdrawal symptoms already, and I've no more than seen a picture of her and wired a bunch of money away. Please help almighty Corrado experts, and I promise to make a sacrifice to the vw gods in your name.
Sincerely,


----------



## skaterazn (Jan 9, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *veedubtek* »_Dearest experts, 
Will the auto shipper I hired ever pick up my Corrado and deliver her to me? I grow weary of the growing parts stash I'm accumulating that I cannot install yet. I'm afraid I'm experiencing withdrawal symptoms already, and I've no more than seen a picture of her and wired a bunch of money away. Please help almighty Corrado experts, and I promise to make a sacrifice to the vw gods in your name.
Sincerely,


You have to sacrifice babies and send 12 year old Thai boys to McNair to please the Gods


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (skaterazn)*

eeeeeeewwwwwwwwwwww 12 yr old? that is WAY too old IMO........


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_eeeeeeewwwwwwwwwwww 12 yr old? that is WAY too old IMO........ 
















Unless its a 12 year old thai lady boy... then McNair is down... Get it? Down?


----------



## Snowhere (Jul 27, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_eeeeeeewwwwwwwwwwww 12 yr old? that is WAY too old IMO........





































McNair is taking over where Michael Jackson died off!


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_does the lower dash mount bolt up on the drivers side or passenger side

correct, top is center dash support, and bottom is difuser for tray of ashes.


----------



## vdubCorrado (Nov 8, 2001)

*Re: (reborndub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *reborndub* »_ive noticed that when you lock a door it runs the"CENTRAL LOCKING SYSTEM" which is suppose to lock everything by driv/pass door key.(mine just locks the fuel door)
there is a actuvatetor on pass side rear strut tower by fuel door that runs when this is activated. hense fuel pump sound. my will sound for a good 30-45 sec. just an idea of what you might be hearing.
thank vw for a owners manual

is this a question








if so...
early VW poer door lock systems are actually vacuum operated rather than electric so there is a main vacuum pump located in the passenger side of the hatch area behind the rear strut tower. it is encased in styrofoam. that is what you hear running for "30-45 seconds." now onto why it runs for that long, and why none of your doors lock... at this point it's rather obvious... you have a vacuum leak. very common problem on a MK3... but i have noticed unlike a MK3 where the vacuum line connection locks on pump the Corrado merely connects with a rubber vacuum line over a nipple... pull back your carpet in the passenger hatch, undo the 2 straps that hold the black styrofoam cover off open it up and see if that hose is still connected to the pump. the pump runs longer attempting to lock to doors but because of the vacuum leak it can not do so, eventually causing it to just give up trying after a while...


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (vdubCorrado)*

i know this may not be the appropriate thread for a wheel question, but here goes:
Ive come up with this: 16 x 7.5 KT1's all the way around... but offset? If I do 35's all the way around I might need spacers to have the tires pushed out closer to the fender. So maybe 20 offset all the way around instead? I'd like to avoid spacers if I can, or just in the back if absolutely necessary. Anyone have pics (or links) with 16x7.5 ET20 in the front?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: ([email protected])*

contact Mr. Blank, he had those wheels, and i know he knows wheel offsets etc like the back of his hand.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

on a g60 go with the et20


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

thanks doods








ET20 all the way around? think Ill need spacers in the back to be even with the fronts?


_Modified by [email protected] at 4:47 PM 7-7-2009_


----------



## Jow wow (Oct 15, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

calling the experts: i am replacing the front wheel bearings do i need to replace the hubs as well? thanks


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_thanks doods








ET20 all the way around? think Ill need spacers in the back to be even with the fronts?



Yeah all the way around, and i wouldnt worry about a spacer at , worst case throw a 5 mill spacer on.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jow wow* »_calling the experts: i am replacing the front wheel bearings do i need to replace the hubs as well? thanks


I would to be safe. Alot of times if the bearing was really bad it will wallow the hub out and make it not fit as well causing the next bearing to wear prematurly.


----------



## ebaradas (Jun 23, 2009)

Hello experts! I just bought a 1990 G-60 w/ 180k original miles and I have several issues I need to address in order of priority:
1. Cooling System - compressor needs to be replaced, can I use the VR6 compressor? It uses the freon R134 which I prefer.
2. Engine Gaskets - I have noted that oil leaks coming from the valve cover, head and oil pan. No over heating issues confirmed by driving it from SoCal to Las Vegas at an average speed of 80-100 mph. I'm going to have the compression test done tomorrow. My question is, if the test results are fine should I just change the gaskets involved and buy time till I get the proper parts for a complete rebuilt or park her for the time being while I patiently gather the necessary parts like a set of forged pistons.
3. Transmission - She's having trouble going to 2nd gear if you rev her up. It'll go in with a grind. To eliminate the grind I wait a couple of seconds before engaging to 2nd gear or double clutching if I need to rush it. Otherwise the rest of the gears are fine. I also noticed that the shifter seems to be wobbly. Is this a sign of synchro going bad or shifting linkages problem. What should I check on first?
4. Passenger Side Window - not closing fully, a quarter of an inch gap. I striped down the door panels and noted that I can push the glass up but won't remain fully closed. Upon research I found that this is a common problem. I have decided to go on the route of just replacing the entire "window regulator" set-up with the Pimax replacement part. Is this a good brand? Are there other brands without having to spend $525 with the VW parts dealer? 
Any input will be greatly appreciated. I refuse to let this baby go as my wife suggested earlier. It took me 19 years to get HER! Of course I can't tell my wife this







Even by today's standard this "Rado" is one hell of a sleeping street monster. I'm confident I can bring her back to greatness. 8 years in Vegas and I have not seen one on the streets.


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_i know this may not be the appropriate thread for a wheel question, but here goes:
Ive come up with this: 16 x 7.5 KT1's all the way around... but offset? If I do 35's all the way around I might need spacers to have the tires pushed out closer to the fender. So maybe 20 offset all the way around instead? I'd like to avoid spacers if I can, or just in the back if absolutely necessary. Anyone have pics (or links) with 16x7.5 ET20 in the front?

Maybe it's just me but don't you need to know if it's a + or - 20et. Which usuall determines if the offset is behind or infront for the wheel center spacing?
Positive
The hub mounting surface is toward the front or wheel side of the wheel. Positive offset wheels are generally found on front wheel drive cars and newer rear drive cars.
Negative
The hub mounting surface is toward the back or brake side of the wheels centerline. "Deep dish" wheels are typically a negative offset.
If the offset of the wheel is not correct for the car, the handling can be adversely affected. When the width of the wheel changes, the offset also changes numerically. If the offset were to stay the same while you added width, the additional width would be split evenly between the inside and outside. For most cars, this won't work correctly. We have test fitted thousands of different vehicles for proper fitment. Our extensive database allows our sales staff to offer you the perfect fit for your vehicle.
Taken from The Tirerack Site.
Taken from http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp I don't think you'll want spaces if its +20et. Going from my 1991 Wheel specs that were 15x6.5" with a +et33, going to a 16x7.5 and +et20, will leave you at Inner Clearance: 1 mm More (the inside of the wheel to the strut housing) and Outer Position: EXTEND an extra 27mm (position of the outside edge of the wheel).
So adding spacers would poke out even further. I amde the epic fail of thinking my stock offset was a +et43 and got a set of 16x7" with a offset of +et43 and found that my rear tire actually was pinned right into my coilovers. had to put some 15MM spacers to push the rears out.


----------



## shaman427 (May 6, 2001)

*FMIC question!!!!!!!!!!!!!!*

Ok guys give an answer to this. I am in a process of putting on a FMIC on my 1.8t G60 swap, and weighing my options here. I have a Godspeed core that I wanna throw on there. Its like 2.75inch deep and as I found out by trial and search that almost ALL of you put your FMICs by cutting the rebar for the OEM bumper. I would prefer not to do that. I am not running an AC so I have more room. I was thinking of cutting the piece in the illustration, but not sure how needed it is for supporting the whole piece. Thinking of welding a piece to where I cut and actually using that as one of the ICs mounting points (it has 3 on one side and 2 on the other). Then mounting the rest of it with brackets to the radiator support on the bottom. Would that be ok? I might even explore some creative air ducting, and slight angle tilt forward to capture more air from bottom air vent. Curious as hell and antsy to get the car finished...
Thanks


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FMIC question!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (shaman427)*

*ebaradas:* replace the gaskets, AFTER compression test. you may just have bad gaskets, which would be nice. if comp test is bad, well, then start digging further. 
REBUILD THE CHARGER NOW before it grenades, Kompressor Kanada is a great place, and highly recommended. 
by yer description, 2nd gear syncro is shot, should cost no more than a couple of hundred bucks to fix, and while in there, ask the trans shop to closely look at 5th as well, as they go. 
also, sloppy shifter, is it side to side, or front to back, the slop? 
*shaman427:* cut the piece you circled in the pic, it will be fine. i have done it more than once. 
also, look at my build thread ("my winter project finally revealed" posted under MIKEMCNAIR screen name, midway through you will see my FMIC install, which has a duct directing air to the IC. it is great cause my IC is 100% invisible from the front of the car http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (ebaradas)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ebaradas* »_Hello experts! I just bought a 1990 G-60 w/ 180k original miles and I have several issues I need to address in order of priority:
4. Passenger Side Window - not closing fully, a quarter of an inch gap. I striped down the door panels and noted that I can push the glass up but won't remain fully closed. Upon research I found that this is a common problem. I have decided to go on the route of just replacing the entire "window regulator" set-up with the Pimax replacement part. Is this a good brand? Are there other brands without having to spend $525 with the VW parts dealer? 

I can chime in on the window regulator... my passenger side window reg is on its way out as well, and Pimax is the brand our parts supplier carries, I'm going with it. Also, they use a Bosch motor on their regulator assembly, so they've got that going for them... which is nice.


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Jared, you will be sorry with the PIMAX brand as it is NOT the same style as OEM. I am sorry i wasted my money on one. 
It does not have the scissor style but rather a cheap track style. And they are CHEAP cause of quality not price.
A1 Electric or the EPP regulators (INPRO I BELIEVE). Are the ONLY options that will work well and OEM like. 
my PIMAX needed to be fabed to fit the car with a couple bars to mount it in place. PITA should have been the name.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (wzach)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wzach* »_Jared, you will be sorry with the PIMAX brand as it is NOT the same style as OEM. I am sorry i wasted my money on one. 
It does not have the scissor style but rather a cheap track style. And they are CHEAP cause of quality not price.
A1 Electric or the EPP regulators (INPRO I BELIEVE). Are the ONLY options that will work well and OEM like. 
my PIMAX needed to be fabed to fit the car with a couple bars to mount it in place. PITA should have been the name. 

ok good advice... thanks for the input http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

after seeing how well Raven's windows worked (he bought the A1 electric stuff) I will be getting a set even though my regulators are working.


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

sell me your passenger then. Cheap plz!


----------



## shaman427 (May 6, 2001)

*Re: FMIC question!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (Noobercorn)*

Thanks man going to cut it now yeah!!!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *wzach* »_sell me your passenger then. Cheap plz!


I might have a spare actually. It is burried at the shop, but im pretty sure I have one.


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

windows and radio dont work... allen said something about a relay with a fuse in it behind the dash but me and him looked and didnt find anything...read something on the archives that there was a fuse or relay behind the rear driver side doorcard...think i could have knocked it loose when i ran the battery wires?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

I've got a "NEWBIE" question for you guys.... On a G60, is the rev supposed to come down slowly from higher RPM? While my car is idling (super smooth idle BTW), the Tach needle bounces, what may be causing this?
Thanks to all http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Sr. Karmann)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1broknrado* »_windows and radio dont work... allen said something about a relay with a fuse in it behind the dash but me and him looked and didnt find anything...read something on the archives that there was a fuse or relay behind the rear driver side doorcard...think i could have knocked it loose when i ran the battery wires?

window control module is there, no correlation to the radio, unless the load reduction relay is effed. also, peep fuses, might be a simple solution. 

_Quote, originally posted by *Sr. Karmann* »_I've got a "NEWBIE" question for you guys.... On a G60, is the rev supposed to come down slowly from higher RPM? While my car is idling (super smooth idle BTW), the Tach needle bounces, what may be causing this?
Thanks to all http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

i am not sure what you mean here, but yer tach should not bounce at all. sounds to me as if the tach signal is interrupted, or the cluster is having issues.


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

i checked all the fuses...there is power at the switch but when i hit the switch, i dont hear any clicks or anything..possibly no power at motors


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

When I rev the engine, or come off the throttle quickly, the engine is slow to get back to idle, which I have to wait for to get into 1st gear again. Mostly upon revving in the driveway or under high speed braking to a stop. The revs just come down slower than any other non-supercharged vehicle I've driven and this is my first supercharged vehicle, I kinda figured it had something to do with the boost pressure having to be lowered slowly. As far as the Tach is concerned, I have no ideas??? Where does the signal come from in the engine bay? The wire on the distributor is maybe what I was thinking?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (1broknrado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1broknrado* »_i checked all the fuses...there is power at the switch but when i hit the switch, i dont hear any clicks or anything..possibly no power at motors

make sure you have power going INTO the WCM. giant red wire on the white plug, in the WCM. 

_Quote, originally posted by *Sr. Karmann* »_When I rev the engine, or come off the throttle quickly, the engine is slow to get back to idle, which I have to wait for to get into 1st gear again. Mostly upon revving in the driveway or under high speed braking to a stop. The revs just come down slower than any other non-supercharged vehicle I've driven and this is my first supercharged vehicle, I kinda figured it had something to do with the boost pressure having to be lowered slowly. As far as the Tach is concerned, I have no ideas??? Where does the signal come from in the engine bay? The wire on the distributor is maybe what I was thinking? 

gotcha, that smells like a vac leak!!!!


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

WCM is behind the rear doorcard correct?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (1broknrado)*

left side (driver) yes. it has two plugs on it. the large white multi pin one (that is always a pain in the ass to get out of the WCM, not too sure why) is the "in plug" meaning it has all signals going into WCM. the other (brown IIRC) is the milti pin out, meaning it sends signals to the windows etc. 
the weird thing about the WCM setup, is that it actually sends a signal to the window, and back to itself. it is hard to explain, but that's how it works.


----------



## ebaradas (Jun 23, 2009)

*Re: (wzach)*

where can I buy these A1 Electric or EPP window regulators?
thanks,
Ed


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (ebaradas)*

http://www.europeanperformanceproducts.com/www_epp/


----------



## ebaradas (Jun 23, 2009)

*Re: FMIC question!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (Noobercorn)*

Compression Test results were fantastic:
Cylinder #1 = 160
#2 = 155
#3 = 155
#4 = 160
Yes I will have the G-60 rebuilt. I notice that some guys just do it themselves. I'm mechanically inclined but never had a chance to rebuild a supercharger. Is this simply replace bearings and stuff then bolt on back together? Any special tool required? I figure the savings from having it done versus DIY is close to $200. Is it worth it? You recommend Kompressor Kanada, how are they comparable to BBM? I've heard of BBM since back in the mid 90's. I really have no particulars at this time, just making sure I get this thing right the first time.
I was told by the VW mechanic to just get a good working used tranny. I'm thinking of just saving to get me a rebuilt one. Is there a Transmission Shop you recommend I can send this tranny for service? And the sloppy shifter problem is side to side.
Again thanks for all your input I greatly appreciate this. I hope I can also be of service to someone in the future. This community is great!!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FMIC question!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (ebaradas)*

get the trans rebuilt, find a local GOOD vw shop. side to side reduction from GRUVEN was posted in here a page or so ago, look back a few posts.


----------



## zideman (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: (ebaradas)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ebaradas* »_where can I buy these A1 Electric or EPP window regulators?
thanks,
Ed

http://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_vwmtr.htm
Went this route never looked back. Remeber when disassembling the old regulator to take off the arms from the rollers in the window bracket and keep those, as they pop/transfer to the arms of the new replacement reg.


----------



## DeadcellCorrado (Jan 8, 2008)

WOW! expert guys must be really overwhelmed! with all these questions..but thanks you guys are really benifiting the Corrado Community..so my turn..Oh might experts..just dropped the engine in my car and havent tampered with this problem yet, i'd like some imput from the experts first. My car wont engage in reverse, and if i want to go into 1st gear i have to shift into reverse..i know this might be because of the linkage and it needing adjusting..could you please steer me in the right direction?
Thanks Guys.


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeadcellCorrado* »_WOW! expert guys must be really overwhelmed! with all these questions..but thanks you guys are really benifiting the Corrado Community..so my turn..Oh might experts..just dropped the engine in my car and havent tampered with this problem yet, i'd like some imput from the experts first. My car wont engage in reverse, and if i want to go into 1st gear i have to shift into reverse..i know this might be because of the linkage and it needing adjusting..could you please steer me in the right direction?
Thanks Guys.


The bolt on the cable where it links to the tranny will need to be loosened, currently your linkiage is too far over to the left preventing reverse from engaging. 
Play with it buy loosening, moving, and tightening it back untill you have all gears!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (wzach)*

Usually I have someone center the shifter and hold it while I tighten it down


----------



## JIIP (Apr 20, 2006)

*FV-QR*

here is a potential baffler, what is the difference between real french spec fogs and fakes (not just yellow glass)
In other words how do I make mine look like the real thing? I know it isnt the lens, is there just a cap like on the headlights?
What I consider real
















Fake


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_ Usually I have someone center the shifter and hold it while I tighten it down

this can be done by putting a screwdriver in the centering hole there (on the shift tower) you kinda can't miss it.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (JIIP)*

nick, the fake ones are either Lamin-x'd, or painted with that chrome yellow stuff the MK3 guys use. 
the REAL ones have yellow BEHIND the glass.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

My next fix is the steering rack. Is there an easy way to identify if I have the TRW or ZF rack on my 91 G60?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_My next fix is the steering rack. Is there an easy way to identify if I have the TRW or ZF rack on my 91 G60?

that is an excellent Q, i have never learned how to tell the diff.


----------



## Sponge Bob (Jun 8, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

Thanks for the help, FIXED











_Modified by Sponge Bob at 11:35 AM 7-10-2009_


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Sponge Bob)*

well here goes...I want to get the rears powder coated because the temp paint is already flaking off...and when I took it to the powder coater they said that the caliper has to be completely apart or the sand will get in there and render the caliper useless. How could I get the rear calipers powder coated if these don't come out? I was thinking of switching to mk 4 aluminum and doing the same, but I'm afraid it'll have the same issue after I pop out the piston. I was able to remove the piston...and the u shaped pin at the bottom...but the threaded bolt in the middle, etc.. won't come out. how does it come out of the rear caliper?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
that is an excellent Q, i have never learned how to tell the diff. 

they have different part numbers of course, but I'd like to I.D. it before taking it off so I can order up a fresh one!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
they have different part numbers of course, but I'd like to I.D. it before taking it off so I can order up a fresh one!


one rack is smooth, one rack has a waffled texture to it.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

do you know which one is which?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_do you know which one is which?


TRW is smooth, ZF is waffled


----------



## nofx1981 (Oct 24, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
one rack is smooth, one rack has a waffled texture to it.


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_do you know which one is which?

the ZF rack has the waffle pattern, TRW is smooth, if your rado is a G60 it's probably the TRW rack


_Modified by nofx1981 at 12:33 PM 7-9-2009_


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

thanks as always


----------



## DeadcellCorrado (Jan 8, 2008)

THANKS GUYS! ILL WORK ON THAT TODAY!!!


----------



## steezbox (Feb 6, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

Most likely an easy one:
92 OBDI VR6 - 66k miles
My skill - beginner, I can replace stuff that is broken, but I suck at diagnosing. I have a bentley.
Problem - Turn the key and get power but no spark. Just all electricals, no turning or anything. Used to never happen, then would happen once in a while, with the second try would always fire up. Today it won't work no matter how many times I try.
Ignition switch?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

totally ignition switch.


----------



## veedubtek (Feb 1, 2003)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *steezbox* »_Most likely an easy one:
92 OBDI VR6 - 66k miles
My skill - beginner, I can replace stuff that is broken, but I suck at diagnosing. I have a bentley.
Problem - Turn the key and get power but no spark. Just all electricals, no turning or anything. Used to never happen, then would happen once in a while, with the second try would always fire up. Today it won't work no matter how many times I try.
Ignition switch?


















Starter isn't cranking the engine at all? Can you use a volt meter or test light? Pull the little wire off the starter and see if it gets juice when the key is in the "Start" position. If yes, bum starter. If no, I'd check the ignition switch. You can also try pushing in and wiggling the key while holding it in the start position now and see if that gets it to go. Could be a few other things, but those 2 are the most common I've seen. 


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
that is an excellent Q, i have never learned how to tell the diff. 



95% of the time, VR cars always have ZF racks and 4 cylinders have TRW. This certainly isn't set in stone, but if it's never been replaced, I've never seen that fail me. As stated, TRW's are smooth, while the ZF's are waffled. They are interchangeable if you change the inner tie rods as well, the outers are the same.


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *1broknrado* »_windows and radio dont work... allen said something about a relay with a fuse in it behind the dash but me and him looked and didnt find anything...read something on the archives that there was a fuse or relay behind the rear driver side doorcard...think i could have knocked it loose when i ran the battery wires?


fix to this was the fuse has to be connected properly. one side of the red wire goes to the door for the window regular, then into the fuse, the wire that comes out of the fuse has a red clip on it...connect it to the 3 plug main power source or onto the block so that the regulators get power http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeadcellCorrado* »_WOW! expert guys must be really overwhelmed! with all these questions..but thanks you guys are really benifiting the Corrado Community..so my turn..Oh might experts..just dropped the engine in my car and havent tampered with this problem yet, i'd like some imput from the experts first. My car wont engage in reverse, and if i want to go into 1st gear i have to shift into reverse..i know this might be because of the linkage and it needing adjusting..could you please steer me in the right direction?
Thanks Guys.



what i usually do with this is put the shifter in 3rd gear and finger tight the bolt and make sure u have 3rd and 4th smooth...then thats a good estimate to get all the gears...if u dont get 1 2 or 5 just tap it a little bit until everything goes in smoother and smoother until u have pretty close or perfect.


----------



## steezbox (Feb 6, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (veedubtek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *veedubtek* »_Starter isn't cranking the engine at all?

No.

_Quote, originally posted by *veedubtek* »_You can also try pushing in and wiggling the key while holding it in the start position now and see if that gets it to go.

This used to work, now no longer does, which is why I think it is the switch...?

_Quote, originally posted by *veedubtek* »_Can you use a volt meter or test light? Pull the little wire off the starter and see if it gets juice when the key is in the "Start" position. 

I'll try this tonight and report back.
thanks guys!


----------



## kevwithoutacorrado (Jun 9, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (steezbox)*

If I unplug the CPS, and nothing changes, does that indicate that it is bad? rough idle, poor mileage, new o2, coilpack & wires, blue temp sensor.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (kevwithoutacorrado)*

anyone have an idea about my earlier post on the brakes? Need to know soon so I can get em going and get the new suspension on....


----------



## KRUSTYLECLOWN (Jan 9, 2009)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

hi, i nead your help.....i got a 1990 corrado g60 bone stock ,radio oem...except a aftermarket alarm system.
when i arm or disarm my system, the light flash ( front and rear et make noise...its ok
the problem is : i drive the car with the heater fan and/or the wiper and stop the car without putting them off ...when i arm or disarm the system the fan and/or wiper go on....or if the alarm system go on, the light flash and wiper and/or fan








the shop how install the system said to me , its not the job, its the car



































http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
thanks for your help


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_anyone have an idea about my earlier post on the brakes? Need to know soon so I can get em going and get the new suspension on....
<hr style="color: black;" size="1" width="15%" align="LEFT">
*<font color="red">The Elite 24v VR6 Club: Member #404</font>*
The G60 Project








PARTS FOR SALE ---> PARTS FOR SALE http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif


Dimitry I have no clue on how to get that apart. 
I just looked in ETKA and the diagram doesn't show that piece as separate from the caliper. None of my bentley manuals show it either.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

dayum....I posted in the brake forum as well....hopefully someone can chime in. thanks for looking...I tried looking too, but no dice.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_dayum....I posted in the brake forum as well....hopefully someone can chime in. thanks for looking...I tried looking too, but no dice.

what was the issue again?


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

scroll up a few and you'll see the inside of my rear caliper. I have to remove the stuff inside in order to get it sand blasted and powder coated. I have NO idea how to get that threaded line out, etc..


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_scroll up a few and you'll see the inside of my rear caliper. I have to remove the stuff inside in order to get it sand blasted and powder coated. I have NO idea how to get that threaded line out, etc.. 

something like this work?


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

I got the piston out already...it's the other thing inside


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*

i dont know homie, i would need to look at it. is it held in with a circlip? 
can you use a tool like this........


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

got the circlip out with picks.....now that damn thing won't come out...tried to wiggle it out...but when I do, I think that it maybe somehow connected to the outside mechanism that swivels to get the ebrake cable on


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*

BFH? 
big ****ing hammer.........


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

hahahah....that maybe the trick I guess. Might makes right http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## NeverOEM (Dec 17, 2007)

Had a similar post of this problem earlier. But here's an update.
I recently flushed out the oil, replaced the oil filter, changed the coolant hoses, the coolant, and the auxiliary water pump. The control module was recently replaced because it would emit a buzzing sound after the engine was shut off. Also, the coolant, oil, and MFA 1 lights would flash erratically on the dash while the battery light remains constant (due to key in the ignition I presume). Is this normal? I've had a battery die on me before and am assuming that this was the cause. Any input would be appreciated.
Also, my hood release is f'ed. The driver's side latch will not release, a good indicator of the time to replace the release cable?


----------



## JIIP (Apr 20, 2006)

*FV-QR*

is this a factory color? Is it rare if it is? I wanna say it is both but im not 100% sure.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/1256647142.html 



_Modified by JIIP at 12:16 AM 7-11-2009_


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (JIIP)*

only two corrado yellows I think are
nugget yellow LK1B
jasmin yellow LK1D
here's jasmin








here's nugget









almost looks imola from that pic... 


_Modified by dpgreek at 12:59 PM 7-11-2009_


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*FV-QR*

NeverOEM, yes, cable for you if ony one side opens, 
JIIP, that is VW DE GTI Yellow. Not oem Corrado, but OEM for sure,


----------



## El Groso (May 29, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (wzach)*

Hi, I need a quick answer before I mess up. - _I asked in the 16v forum but answers are kind of vague.._
*Will a 16v head (1.8 KR the one w/ euro intake mani) fit ok in my PG block?*
*What size (how tall) pistons would I need?* (all stock internals)
Im planing on a low presure quick spool turbo 16v, thought I could leave the CR not too low..








Will be going here 









_Modified by El Groso at 11:32 AM 7-11-2009_


_Modified by El Groso at 11:33 AM 7-11-2009_


----------



## NeverOEM (Dec 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (wzach)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wzach* »_NeverOEM, yes, cable for you if ony one side opens, 


and what about the buzzing?


----------



## ebaradas (Jun 23, 2009)

Suggestions needed:
Just finished taking the engine out of the bay this AM so in search for several parts for rebuild. What would be the best brand for........
1. Head Gasket Set - some brands have more parts than others.
2. Timing Belt
3. Lower Engine Gasket Set
4. Serpentine Belt
5. Water Pump
thanks again!


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *NeverOEM* »_Had a similar post of this problem earlier. But here's an update.
I recently flushed out the oil, replaced the oil filter, changed the coolant hoses, the coolant, and the auxiliary water pump. The control module was recently replaced because it would emit a buzzing sound after the engine was shut off. Also, the coolant, oil, and MFA 1 lights would flash erratically on the dash while the battery light remains constant (due to key in the ignition I presume). Is this normal? I've had a battery die on me before and am assuming that this was the cause. Any input would be appreciated.
Also, my hood release is f'ed. The driver's side latch will not release, a good indicator of the time to replace the release cable?


im not 100% but i too had replaced the fc due to it not eorking. if you hear buzzing and no fans right after the car is tured off yeah its fahked. 
as for the lights, the oil light will flas when the key is turned to on. im not sure what to tell you about the mfa and coolant, i would check the harness going to the cluster itself, and maybey the cluster itself is dying.


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (wzach)*

How do you fix a clicking relay. Whenever I turn the ignition on it will sometimes click for 10-15 seconds or as long as one minute.
A while back I was under the dash & could feel the clicking coming from the fuel pump relay. Replacing the relay did nothing. Just wondering how to go about diagnosing this irritant.
__________________________________


----------



## NeverOEM (Dec 17, 2007)

problem diagnosed, loose wire, gotta fix that


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

*Re: (NeverOEM)*

Is it likely there's a loose wire in back of the fuse/relay panel? Everything looked ok last time I checked the fuel pump/gas tank area.
____________________________________


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *PrjktRado1* »_ How do you fix a clicking relay. Whenever I turn the ignition on it will sometimes click for 10-15 seconds or as long as one minute.
A while back I was under the dash & could feel the clicking coming from the fuel pump relay. Replacing the relay did nothing. Just wondering how to go about diagnosing this irritant.
__________________________________


What relay is it?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *ebaradas* »_Suggestions needed:
Just finished taking the engine out of the bay this AM so in search for several parts for rebuild. What would be the best brand for........
1. Head Gasket Set - some brands have more parts than others.
2. Timing Belt
3. Lower Engine Gasket Set
4. Serpentine Belt
5. Water Pump
thanks again!


Order an OEM set from fourseasontuning or GAP. Same with belts
Get a metal impeller water pump


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (JIIP)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JIIP* »_is this a factory color? Is it rare if it is? I wanna say it is both but im not 100% sure.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/1256647142.html 

_Modified by JIIP at 12:16 AM 7-11-2009_

Ginster Yellow L132/R132


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *ebaradas* »_Suggestions needed:
Just finished taking the engine out of the bay this AM so in search for several parts for rebuild. What would be the best brand for........
1. Head Gasket Set - some brands have more parts than others.
2. Timing Belt
3. Lower Engine Gasket Set
4. Serpentine Belt
5. Water Pump
thanks again!


talk to allen (herby53-akaherby53). He will set you up with everything you need in a quick phone call and give you his opinion on anything u have a question with.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (1broknrado)*

anyone know what it takes to get the rear fog working on a 91 G60? My fog light switch is a 3-position switch but only lights up orange in the farthest "on" position.
The drivers side "inboard" tailight board has a spot for a bulb and is wired, but I cant get it to illuminate.
Is there more to it?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

http://www.corrado-club.com/fa...ID=59
you can also make it so you have 4 brake lights, kinda overkill, but who cares


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_http://www.corrado-club.com/fa...ID=59
you can also make it so you have 4 brake lights, kinda overkill, but who cares









cool.. i read it and it seems do-able. One question tho... there is already a factory-installed wire / connector on the bulb board at the rear fog's bulb socket. I tried a good bulb and switched the fog light switch all the way but no rear fog (with or w/o headlights on). Is the wiring on there but maybe just not hooked up somewhere (left unconnected by VW)?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

correct, follow the instructions, and it will tell you which wire to connect to


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

thanks dood http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

werd to ya mutha, ice ice aby too cold, to cold...............


----------



## YellowZonker (Jun 17, 2006)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

Ok, I'll play along.
Recently found out the engine in my G60 came from an eastern rust bucket that somehow, made it's way to AZ. I'm sure everyone knows the story about how my G60 was supposedly fixed and who did it. Point is I'm still having problems.
Alright, just to clear the board here...the engine has had ALL of the sensors replaced, O2, Thermo, Fan, fuel pump, fuel filter, etc. Next. The headgasket has been changed out as of a year ago. ECU has been replaced, coolant was switched over to G12, and al lthe belts and hoses were replaced last year when the head was in the shop.
O2 sensor is coming tomorrow. The problem was it wouldn't pass the E-test here and it was due to a broken wire. Shop fixed the wire but because it had been running rich for so long it screwed up the O2 sensor.
Problem. It surges when it's kept a constant speed, always has, even when the o2 sensor was new. I can accelorate, and it has great power (not the best but what do you expect for a rust buckets engine?)
I've changed the oil, burned only 102 octaine and it still does this.
I'm also not accepting that this is just a raddo thing deal with it. There are several other G60's here in the valley that I've ridden in ad theirs does do it either.
I DO have to admit that with the new coolant it doesn't do it as often and runs A LOT cooler. Used to run up in the 235 range and up until recently, runs between 1/2 and 3/4's of the way.
I also have the coolent light that's supposed to blink, it stays on when it reachs 230. Had a riend see that last night.
Ok.. so, any ideas?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

So for starters, the 02 sensor is deff effed and a huge cause of that. After you change it since it was running so rich, change the plugs They are fouled out. 
Double check the ignition timing to make sure it is dead on.
Also you may be running too high of an octane if this is a stock chip... The ECU isn't expecting something so high and it might not be fully igniting.


----------



## G0to60 (Jun 23, 2003)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (YellowZonker)*


_Quote, originally posted by *YellowZonker* »_?

Have you checked your vacuum lines? ECU hose that's 1 meter long. Also check the FPR hose to the intake manifold.
One thing you may try to help get the temp down is hose out the fins on the radiator. I did this and it dropped my temps by 10 degrees. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *G0to60* »_
Have you checked your vacuum lines? ECU hose that's 1 meter long. Also check the FPR hose to the intake manifold.


Deff check the ECU vacuum line.


----------



## YellowZonker (Jun 17, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

All Vac lines are new and are functioning. The shop (very reputable here) also checked them as well.
The ECU vac line was measured and cut by a qualified VW tech (also owns the 89 Rallye Golf here in the valley)
TIming is dead on from when the shop was diagnosing the cause of the raddo not passing the e-test.
Fins have been cleaned, and I think it's hot because the temps around here lately have been about 110-115 in the daytime.
I AM happy to report that new spark plugs along with the O2 sensor and another fuel filter will be delivered tomorrow, so checking the plugs is out, since they will be replaced anyway.
I forgot to mention that it still chugs and surges with the O2 sensor unpluged but acts like it wants to die (feels like vaporlock) when it IS plugged in and is running normal temp.
I should just get a 16V put the S charger on it and let someone else have this G60 engine LOL.


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
What relay is it?


I can feel the clicking coming from the Fuel pump relay. 
__________________________________


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Check the wires in the back and it could be a bad ignition switch also.


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Will do thanks. I replaced that PITA switch a long time ago. Don't wanna go there again.








________________________________


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (PrjktRado1)*

got a question for the experts.
Has anyone ever heard of a car not starting SOMETIMES?
I'd say like 1 in 5 cold starts (NOT in succession) it will crank really slowly. It's like roulette every time I go out to my car. 
keep in mind this is a g60 gone 16v n/a.




..I checked all my fuses for a voltage drop, and I think I found the last one (radio) to be ~.05v less. not sure if that's typical or not due to presets.
I went out today and check the same fuse and NO voltage drop on the radio fuse!


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (skaterhernandez4)*

hey guys: i know i have a slight vacuum leak somewhere, and as I was working under the hood last night noticed that this vacuum pump (I believe for the cruise) has no vacuum lines on the two bottom nipples. One large, one small. The cruise does work. At idle no vacuum is coming from any of the 3 nipples on the unit. Is any of this related?
Part number 171907325


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

im not an expert but im 90% sure that that is normal. go around ur engine bay with a mist water bottle and see if the rpm's drop. also check ur grounds.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (skaterhernandez4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *skaterhernandez4* »_im not an expert but im 90% sure that that is normal. go around ur engine bay with a mist water bottle and see if the rpm's drop. also check ur grounds.

ok... thanks! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Any second opinions?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

i use a tank of propane, like a small torch, and go around all vac lines and see if the motor revs. same thing as the water trick, but since it is gas, it can seep into smaller leaks. 








dude with random starting issues, it is your ign switch, i'd bet the farm on it.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_i use a tank of propane, like a small torch, and go around all vac lines and see if the motor revs. same thing as the water trick, but since it is gas, it can seep into smaller leaks. 

so does that cruise control pic (above) look normal to you also? as far as the bottom nipple having no lines coming off of it?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

i will have to look at my daily, as it is the only car i have owned in YEARS with cruise. next smoke i have i will take a pic for ya.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

thank you sir!
Its not so much that im concerned about the cruise (it does work) but the "missing" vac line concerned me. I wasn't sure if it was affecting something else in the engine.
I didnt realize it was the cruise at first, and when i checked it and no vacuum was coming from it, I thought I had solved my problem. Maybe not so much


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_i will have to look at my daily, as it is the only car i have owned in YEARS with cruise. next smoke i have i will take a pic for ya. 


you wont be able to tell Noob, our Cruise is in the fender wells. his is a g60 ,if you have one of those for reference,


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (wzach)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wzach* »_
you wont be able to tell Noob, our Cruise is in the fender wells. his is a g60 ,if you have one of those for reference,

lol, see, shows how much i know. i never had it, so i was just gonna pop the hood and lok around for it


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
dude with random starting issues, it is your ign switch, i'd bet the farm on it. 

Can anyone second this?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *skaterhernandez4* »_
Can anyone second this?


Yep, i sure can


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

COOL im buying one today http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (skaterhernandez4)*

best $20.00 you ever spent.


----------



## kjperry (Sep 22, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (El Groso)*


_Quote, originally posted by *El Groso* »_Hi, I need a quick answer before I mess up. - _I asked in the 16v forum but answers are kind of vague.._
*Will a 16v head (1.8 KR the one w/ euro intake mani) fit ok in my PG block?*
*What size (how tall) pistons would I need?* (all stock internals)
Im planing on a low presure quick spool turbo 16v, thought I could leave the CR not too low..








Will be going here 









_Modified by El Groso at 11:32 AM 7-11-2009_

_Modified by El Groso at 11:33 AM 7-11-2009_

I searched the G60 Forum and found this. I didn't read all of it but it looks like the info you need.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1784212


----------



## El Groso (May 29, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (kjperry)*

Thanks! Thought no one would help








Gonna read it now.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (El Groso)*

*NOTE TO ALL WHO HAVE QUESTIONS THAT HAVE BEEN NOT ANSWERED, REPOST THEM, THEY WILL GET ANSWERED. *


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_hey guys: i know i have a slight vacuum leak somewhere, and as I was working under the hood last night noticed that this vacuum pump (I believe for the cruise) has no vacuum lines on the two bottom nipples. One large, one small. The cruise does work. At idle no vacuum is coming from any of the 3 nipples on the unit. Is any of this related?
Part number 171907325









i cant seem to find out if a line is supposed to be on that bottom nipple or not...


----------



## kjperry (Sep 22, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (El Groso)*


_Quote, originally posted by *El Groso* »_Thanks! Thought no one would help








Gonna read it now.

No problem http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Good luck.


----------



## NeverOEM (Dec 17, 2007)

Ok, it seems I've got a few more problems to address. Something stays on (I think) after the ignition is turned off and kills my battery. On top of that, it seems the alternator is crapping out since it barely made it back home and needed a push start. So I'll be taking apart the front end after my trip to Waterfest to try and address the grounding issue and change the alternator. Anyone experience similar problems? Just looking to make sure I'm on the right track.


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

*Re: (NeverOEM)*

Simple checks for your alternator: pull the voltage regulator and measure the brushes. I think the minimum length is 5mm. It should be in your bentley. Also check to see what your voltage at your battery is @ idle. It should be over 13. Over 12 when not running. 
Also disconnect your neg. bat. terminal and use a multimeter to check the voltage across the cable to the terminal. Pull your fuses one at a time to see if the voltage drops. If/when it does, whatever that fuse is associated with is whats drawing current from your battery. The seatbelts are a common place to start.

_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_hey guys: i know i have a slight vacuum leak somewhere, and as I was working under the hood last night noticed that this vacuum pump (I believe for the cruise) has no vacuum lines on the two bottom nipples. One large, one small. The cruise does work. At idle no vacuum is coming from any of the 3 nipples on the unit. Is any of this related?

I just ran out to my g60 to check; you don't need anything to that nipple http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## shaman427 (May 6, 2001)

*Re: (skaterhernandez4)*

So... wanting to be cool I got myself some e-codes for g60. Knowing that the plugs are different I ordered a connector that changes NA to euro connector so I thought. The connector that I have the NA part is ok its just the other side that is off. The lights have the 4 pin square plug and my kit has the 3 pin square plug what is amiss?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (shaman427)*

show me pics of said plugs, but from the sounds of it the city light wire is not pinned in. 
my reccomendations is to get the ecode relay harness from jeff ( http://www.eurowires.net) 
best ~ 90 bux spent EVER. i do it to EVERY corrado i have ever owned.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*

hey mike - were you able to determine if the one nipple with nothing on it was a normal setup?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_hey mike - were you able to determine if the one nipple with nothing on it was a normal setup? 


Give me a bit and I will be able to look into. I have a meeting in a few but after that I will post


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (skaterhernandez4)*

i wasnt, but sk8ter did check









_Quote, originally posted by *skaterhernandez4* »_
I just ran out to my g60 to check; you don't need anything to that nipple http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## droobear (Mar 12, 2009)

Car: 93 slc
Problem: I need to replace the control arms for my vehicle. I was wondering if there was any upgrade I could make over oem, or is my best bet to find some standard corrado control arms. 
I do not have the ability to do the work myself so I will have a mechanic take care of it. Does anyone have a ball park estimate for new control arms and installation? 
Thanks


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_i wasnt, but sk8ter did check










thx


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *droobear* »_Car: 93 slc
Problem: I need to replace the control arms for my vehicle. I was wondering if there was any upgrade I could make over oem, or is my best bet to find some standard corrado control arms. 
I do not have the ability to do the work myself so I will have a mechanic take care of it. Does anyone have a ball park estimate for new control arms and installation? 
Thanks


They aren't too difficult to do on your own.
Why do you need to replace the arms? Usually it is just the bushings that need to be replaced.
You can use OEM, R32 bushings, or a poly bushing


----------



## skaterazn (Jan 9, 2007)

*Re: (droobear)*


_Quote, originally posted by *droobear* »_Car: 93 slc
Problem: I need to replace the control arms for my vehicle. I was wondering if there was any upgrade I could make over oem, or is my best bet to find some standard corrado control arms. 
I do not have the ability to do the work myself so I will have a mechanic take care of it. Does anyone have a ball park estimate for new control arms and installation? 
Thanks


http://store.blackforestindust....html
Or R32 ones will be a direct fit. I paid about 80 bucks to have them done because I was too lazy to do them myself










_Modified by skaterazn at 8:45 AM 7-15-2009_


----------



## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: (NeverOEM)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NeverOEM* »_Ok, it seems I've got a few more problems to address. Something stays on (I think) after the ignition is turned off and kills my battery. On top of that, it seems the alternator is crapping out since it barely made it back home and needed a push start. So I'll be taking apart the front end after my trip to Waterfest to try and address the grounding issue and change the alternator. Anyone experience similar problems? Just looking to make sure I'm on the right track.

Before taking anything off the front end install a DVOM with min max feature. Lose everything up in the car make sure that there is no alarm witch for the hood. With a jumper wire and DVOM you will install the jumper wire before disconnecting the cable. After its connected pull the main cable off the battery and attach a 10 amp fused the DVOM leads. One to the batt terminal other to the main cable that has been disconnected. Set the DVOM to volts and remove the jumper wire. Wait 10 mins and than set the min max feature on the DVOM to test for battery drain that could go intermediately high. Come back few hours later to see the change. Review your min, max and avg volts. Reading should be low. The jumper wire is used only to prevent possible module wake up. Its a Corrado I know it does not have much in electronics but if a relay or aftermarket radio for axample is energized it will throw off your results.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (skaterazn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *skaterazn* »_

http://store.blackforestindust....html


i have them on the VRT and LOVE THEM!!!!!!!!!! well worth the money!!!!!


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif well its about 102 degrees outside with the humidity, and my a/c compressor seized today. Its finished. Any good suggestions on vendors for a new or decent reman compressor? Our parts vendor doesn't even carry them...


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*

on a 91 g60 what color wires are for the copot and what color for the injectors


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

*Re: (nu2dubbing)*


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

*Re: (nu2dubbing)*

easy dude it's only been 1.5hrs, this isn't ask jeeves.
I have a 90, otherwise i'd tell you. If anyone can confirm they are the same, I'll go look http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

*Re: (skaterhernandez4)*

yea i figured everyone is getting ready for waterfest


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

*Re: (nu2dubbing)*

i actually asked yesterday


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *nu2dubbing* »_on a 91 g60 what color wires are for the copot and what color for the injectors


Injectors are BR and R/Y. The R/Y turns to R at the connector near the fuel rail.
Co Pot is BR/W, BL/W, and BL


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: (nu2dubbing)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nu2dubbing* »_yea i figured everyone is getting ready for waterfest

And WaterWerks.


----------



## steezbox (Feb 6, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (steezbox)*


_Quote, originally posted by *steezbox* »_Most likely an easy one:
92 OBDI VR6 - 66k miles
My skill - beginner, I can replace stuff that is broken, but I suck at diagnosing. I have a bentley.
Problem - Turn the key and get power but no spark. Just all electricals, no turning or anything. Used to never happen, then would happen once in a while, with the second try would always fire up. Today it won't work no matter how many times I try.
Ignition switch?

















New ignition switch swapped in. Starts excellent, every time. No drilling or crazy bent screwdrivers!
thanks doods.


----------



## steezbox (Feb 6, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (steezbox)*

Another one while I'm kicking around here...
Car: 92 OBD1 SLC. 66k miles.
Symptom: After the car has been parked for 3+ hours a loud 'marble shooting around a tin can' noise upon startup. It lasts 1 or 2 seconds and then immediately goes away, leavin nothin but the normal humming of the engine.
Also, possibly relevant: Have a coolant leak (not heavy, but constant) from the passenger side of the bay. Coolant runs a steady 200F, less on highway. Oil and coolant levels are fine. Does not happen when the car is still warmed up.
Water pump for the coolant stuff, but the noise?


_Modified by steezbox at 11:16 AM 7-19-2009_


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

thank you http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (nu2dubbing)*

bump...


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (steezbox)*


_Quote, originally posted by *steezbox* »_
New ignition switch swapped in. Starts excellent, every time. No drilling or crazy bent screwdrivers!
thanks doods.

I'm in the middle of mine, I just drilled a hole to pull the cylinder out. I think the hole is low! I am going to drill another one, it will NOT come out with the current hole drilled.


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (steezbox)*


_Quote, originally posted by *steezbox* »_Another one while I'm kicking around here...
Car: 92 OBD1 SLC. 66k miles.
Symptom: After the car has been parked for 3+ hours a loud 'marble shooting around a tin can' noise upon startup. It lasts 1 or 2 seconds and then immediately goes away, leavin nothin but the normal humming of the engine.


http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4482292
This is all I got at this point


----------



## steezbox (Feb 6, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (skaterhernandez4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *skaterhernandez4* »_
I'm in the middle of mine, I just drilled a hole to pull the cylinder out. I think the hole is low! I am going to drill another one, it will NOT come out with the current hole drilled.

Im sure youve seen the bent screwdriver method... But I used a 4 inch #0 Phillips and managed to unscrew it without having to bend the tool. Just gotta remove all other screws and move the unit around enough.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (steezbox)*


_Quote, originally posted by *steezbox* »_Another one while I'm kicking around here...
Car: 92 OBD1 SLC. 66k miles.
Symptom: After the car has been parked for 3+ hours a loud 'marble shooting around a tin can' noise upon startup. It lasts 1 or 2 seconds and then immediately goes away, leavin nothin but the normal humming of the engine.
Also, possibly relevant: Have a coolant leak (not heavy, but constant) from the passenger side of the bay. Coolant runs a steady 200F, less on highway. Oil and coolant levels are fine. Does not happen when the car is still warmed up.
Water pump for the coolant stuff, but the noise?

_Modified by steezbox at 11:16 AM 7-19-2009_

likely just the noise you are hearing before oil gets up on the chains etc. prolly nothing major.


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

I haven't seen the bent screwdriver method. I assume you mean the cylinder unscrews, and people stick a screwdriver in the keyhole to get the torque to spin it out?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (skaterhernandez4)*

anyone got any good leads on a good reman a/c compressor for a G60?
and a headlight switch problem: when the car is on, and I flip the switch to headlights, sometimes the frivers side h/l comes on, sometimes both (if I flip the switch fast), or sometimes none. If i switch to high beams then back to lows, both come on. I just picked up what was claimed to be a new switch off a vr6 (same internals as the old switch) and have the same issue. thoughts?


----------



## G0to60 (Jun 23, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_anyone got any good leads on a good reman a/c compressor for a G60?
and a headlight switch problem: when the car is on, and I flip the switch to headlights, sometimes the frivers side h/l comes on, sometimes both (if I flip the switch fast), or sometimes none. If i switch to high beams then back to lows, both come on. I just picked up what was claimed to be a new switch off a vr6 (same internals as the old switch) and have the same issue. thoughts?

are your headlights relayed? kind of sounds like a relay isn't kicking on all the time.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (G0to60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *G0to60* »_
are your headlights relayed? kind of sounds like a relay isn't kicking on all the time.

i havent added a relay. There isnt one from the factory, right? The power runs thru the switch on these cars, correct?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

look at the black/white wire on the back of the switch. has it been moved to the "NSL" position on the back of the headlight plug? if so, move it to 56. 
if the car had relays installed before you got it, you need to do the opposite, (move pin 56 to the NSL spot)
this will solve this problem no doubt.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_look at the black/white wire on the back of the switch. has it been moved to the "NSL" position on the back of the headlight plug? if so, move it to 56. 
if the car had relays installed before you got it, you need to do the opposite, (move pin 56 to the NSL spot)
this will solve this problem no doubt. 

I'll check it out tonite and let ya know what i find.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_look at the black/white wire on the back of the switch. has it been moved to the "NSL" position on the back of the headlight plug? if so, move it to 56. 
if the car had relays installed before you got it, you need to do the opposite, (move pin 56 to the NSL spot)
this will solve this problem no doubt. 

Here's what I got: black and white is going to 56, NSL is empty. I don't know if someone previously installed relays, this car hasn't been messed with at all so I would doubt it does. If someone put relays in it, where would they most likely be?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Here's what I got: black and white is going to 56, NSL is empty. I don't know if someone previously installed relays, this car hasn't been messed with at all so I would doubt it does. If someone put relays in it, where would they most likely be?



Probably in the engine bay some where. Follow the wires from the headlights and see where they run to.


----------



## veedubtek (Feb 1, 2003)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *skaterhernandez4* »_I haven't seen the bent screwdriver method. I assume you mean the cylinder unscrews, and people stick a screwdriver in the keyhole to get the torque to spin it out?



some people are discussing the ignition lock cylinder, others are discussing the ignition switch itself...there is no bent screwdriver method for the lock cylinder.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (veedubtek)*

on an 02A tranny....how do you get the 2 shifter cables out of the housing they go through which bolts up onto the tranny? I have the one where the cables are side by side


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*

can you give me a pic? IIRC they just come out, but i have to look at it.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

circled in red


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*

this should explain it.......


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

thanks noober....one last question pertaining to this subject....you know the ugly metallic / aluminum foil looking heat sleeves around the cables the go under the car to the shifter box. Can those be easily removed and replaced with another material? Mine look like arse


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_thanks noober....one last question pertaining to this subject....you know the ugly metallic / aluminum foil looking heat sleeves around the cables the go under the car to the shifter box. Can those be easily removed and replaced with another material? Mine look like arse


Leave them on there and just use electrical sheething (the braided kind) to cover them up. you can also paint them black before putting them in there.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*

they can actually be cleaned, or simply replaced. i have yet to see an aftermarket sleve for that, but a factory one is likely cheap.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_but a factory one is likely cheap. 

fat chance...but I'll inquire and share my findings...


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## steezbox (Feb 6, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_likely just the noise you are hearing before oil gets up on the chains etc. prolly nothing major. 

The water pump needed replacing anyway so I got that done. Still makes the noise though and it definitely sounds like dry chain. Is it just a matter of making sure the oil is always topped up? Or does it indicate ware of the chains or their guides (I hear they are plastic)? 
Oh, I run 5w40 synthetic and my headgasket is done.


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (steezbox)*

in refernce to the chain guides, there are 2 different ones.
the OEM OBD1 chains area dual chain set up. The upper chain guide is made of metal with a riveted material to that guide. Some people prefer to use this style on rebuild.
The obd2 style plastic guide meant for the single chain upper set up can be used as long as the obd2 upper chain bolt is also used. (gold bolt on back of upper timing cover)
I have the later plastic style with the dual chains. works great but if you have noise in the chain sections. 
One thing I have noticed on chains is that when the guides go, the timing advances a little and the cars run AWESOME. Usually shortly followed by a valve bender so be careful, if you hear noise its time to do them. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VR6Nutt (Dec 18, 2003)

*FV-QR*

Valve cover replacement question....have any of you pulled the upper manifold w/o removing the front rad support? I overtightened mine and it leaks a tad....Dont mind replacing - just really dont wanna tear the whole front end apart again....


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (VR6Nutt)*

yes, just a socket and wrench you can get in there.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (wzach)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wzach* »_yes, just a socket and wrench you can get in there. 

x2 should be able to do it in minutes, literally. i have found that a 7" extension does the trick, and it's a straight shot (assuming your motor mounts aren't shot and sagging)


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

ok everyone... ISV check valve or ISV reroute kit? Which one is better or have you had better results with?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_ok everyone... ISV check valve or ISV reroute kit? Which one is better or have you had better results with?




Do both.
Sounds redundant but if you hit over 13psi or so you will bleed boost even with the reroute.


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## JIIP (Apr 20, 2006)

*FV-QR*

is it true you get a universal upper core support when you buy it new from the dealer? I heard it fits fine. anyone got confirmation? I always thought the G60 one had a shorter bar thing that runs under the lights. maybe im wrong though.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_

Do both.
Sounds redundant but if you hit over 13psi or so you will bleed boost even with the reroute.

im getting a lot of stumble at startup and the last thing ive traced it to is the ISV. my engine isnt built up at all, but full tune up, temp sensors, etc have all been done.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_look at the black/white wire on the back of the switch. has it been moved to the "NSL" position on the back of the headlight plug? if so, move it to 56. 
if the car had relays installed before you got it, you need to do the opposite, (move pin 56 to the NSL spot)
this will solve this problem no doubt. 

Here's what I found. My car did not have any previously installed headlight relay. I just put in an HID kit that has a relay in it. The relay box hooks direct to the battery. I checked all my grounds. I have not yet switched the wire on the back of the switch harness as per your suggestion, and now have NO headlights. My black/white wire is currently in the "56" position. City lights and tails work.
And, when i turn the switch to the headlight position, the "brights" indicator comes on very dimly, and fully illuminates when i switch to brights. but NO headlights either way... any ideas?
Does it have something to do with the relay and the wire switch on the back of the harness? I know the HIDs are connected properly, Ive installed a few of these same kits before.
Sorry for the multiple posts!










_Modified by [email protected] at 9:53 PM 7-27-2009_


----------



## Airbag Shmairbag (Sep 12, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (wzach)*

Simple question: Why do some C's have a CEL and others don't? This has been bugging the crap out of me. 92 VRs have CELs.. and correct me if I'm wrong, they're all dizzy engines. Yet, my 93 w/ dizzy is CEL free. I've searched and found nothing but contradicting information. Sorry if this is a bit trivial, but I'm curious. TIA


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## skaterazn (Jan 9, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Airbag Shmairbag* »_Simple question: Why do some C's have a CEL and others don't? This has been bugging the crap out of me. 92 VRs have CELs.. and correct me if I'm wrong, they're all dizzy engines. Yet, my 93 w/ dizzy is CEL free. I've searched and found nothing but contradicting information. Sorry if this is a bit trivial, but I'm curious. TIA










Pretty sure most CEl cars were California cars.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
im getting a lot of stumble at startup and the last thing ive traced it to is the ISV. my engine isnt built up at all, but full tune up, temp sensors, etc have all been done.


Do the re-route. Check for vac leaks also
_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Here's what I found. My car did not have any previously installed headlight relay. I just put in an HID kit that has a relay in it. The relay box hooks direct to the battery. I checked all my grounds. I have not yet switched the wire on the back of the switch harness as per your suggestion, and now have NO headlights. My black/white wire is currently in the "56" position. City lights and tails work.
And, when i turn the switch to the headlight position, the "brights" indicator comes on very dimly, and fully illuminates when i switch to brights. but NO headlights either way... any ideas?
Does it have something to do with the relay and the wire switch on the back of the harness? I know the HIDs are connected properly, Ive installed a few of these same kits before.
Sorry for the multiple posts!











Its all in what noob said. Pin needs to be moved to NSL on the headlight switch harness.


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Do the re-route. Check for vac leaks also
Its all in what noob said. Pin needs to be moved to NSL on the headlight switch harness.

thanks man...


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Do the re-route. Check for vac leaks also
Its all in what noob said. Pin needs to be moved to NSL on the headlight switch harness.

if that doesnt work, let me know, it could be a few other things. that should do the trick tho.


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

so to make sure im straight here: since i now have a relayed headlight system, the black/white wire should be in the NSL position, correct?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_so to make sure im straight here: since i now have a relayed headlight system, the black/white wire should be in the NSL position, correct?

on MOST, not ALL cars, this is a necessary thing to do.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
on MOST, not ALL cars, this is a necessary thing to do. 

my car has appeared to be very "un-messed" with so far, so hopefully im in the MOST category and this will fix it!


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

lol, yeah, i am sure it will help. it is about how the relays are triggered. in some cars, this "mod" is necessary to help the lows NOT trigger with city's, on others, it is to help them trigger. it is weird, but depends on the tech installing your headliight harness that day. 
if he was hung over, it might be right.


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## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

What relays are you using? Only ones I seem to find that are weather resistant are 5 prong and I am only looking for 4 relays with 4 prongs. I have seen the page of the person who sells the wire kits for euro spec Ecods and I can get the relays are available from him but I would prefer to use sealed connectors instead of just female exposed terminals.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (vwscream)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwscream* »_What relays are you using? Only ones I seem to find that are weather resistant are 5 prong and I am only looking for 4 relays with 4 prongs. I have seen the page of the person who sells the wire kits for euro spec Ecods and I can get the relays are available from him but I would prefer to use sealed connectors instead of just female exposed terminals. 

my HID kit came with a enclosed relay box that wires to the battery, so i cant really contribute on this one.


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (vwscream)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwscream* »_What relays are you using? Only ones I seem to find that are weather resistant are 5 prong and I am only looking for 4 relays with 4 prongs. I have seen the page of the person who sells the wire kits for euro spec Ecods and I can get the relays are available from him but I would prefer to use sealed connectors instead of just female exposed terminals. 

i use the 5 prongers in all my setups.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

this is the HID kit i just got... has a relay box


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

are you saying the controller is the relay box? cause it is in a way, but not like other may be referring to relaying the headlights.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_are you saying the controller is the relay box? cause it is in a way, but not like other may be referring to relaying the headlights. 

yeah the instructions refer to it as a relay IIRC. you think the wire switch to NSl is still the cure for me? I thought this setup mite help the issue also...


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
yeah the instructions refer to it as a relay IIRC. you think the wire switch to NSl is still the cure for me? I thought this setup mite help the issue also...


Just go try it already. It takes 30 seconds.


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
you think the wire switch to NSl is still the cure for me? I thought this setup mite help the issue also...

definitely worth a shot, and easily reversible if need be.


----------



## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
i use the 5 prongers in all my setups. 

How do you wire them in? Are those spdt relays? Can you supply a link to were your getting the once you are using?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Just go try it already. It takes 30 seconds.

man i wish i could, but im a work so all i can do is sit here and overthink it instead of just doing it!


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (vwscream)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwscream* »_
How do you wire them in? Are those spdt relays? Can you supply a link to were your getting the once you are using?

with this.... http://www.eurowires.net








here they are............
http://bimmerparts.com/searchi...QBPLS


----------



## ryanarchy (Nov 27, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

Anybody got any good tips for installing the front lower crossmember or subframe bushings or whatever you want to call them? I got my old ones out and am having trouble getting the new ones in. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *ryanarchy* »_Anybody got any good tips for installing the front lower crossmember or subframe bushings or whatever you want to call them? I got my old ones out and am having trouble getting the new ones in. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance










lithium grease and a press
Never go in dry. lube the hole up and stick em in


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## shaman427 (May 6, 2001)

*Corrado Forums rule!!!*

Seriously they do. Now that I am corrado owner again I get more help here than anywhere else. Now enough ass kissing and to the point. 
I put a 1.8t AWP in my G60 and made it proper 5speed. It drives now but trying to wire the sucker to work for oil pressure, and temp as well as coolant temp. 
Lets start with oil pressure there are 2 wires i found in the harness and only one wire at the sensor, how is it connected originally. One wire is high and the other is low pressure buzzer trigger. What should i do?
Oil temp I am pretty sure I know where it is on the AWP, and definitively know where it is on the corrado harness (connected oil pressure sensor there and had a FREAK OUT ha ha 320 F oil temps ha ha). Does the ECU need to see that signal or can I just route it to the MFA? Also AWP has 4 wires while G60 had one... confused here.
now finally to coolant temp. If I splice the coolant temp sensor to G60 harness will it work. I guess I should try heh? before I molest my engine harness even more anyone know that?
Thank you folks...


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: Corrado Forums rule!!! (shaman427)*

wow, i am actually not too sure about the 1.8t wiring. i would ask ryan (psucorrado) he should know


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *shaman427* »_Seriously they do. Now that I am corrado owner again I get more help here than anywhere else. Now enough ass kissing and to the point. 
I put a 1.8t AWP in my G60 and made it proper 5speed. It drives now but trying to wire the sucker to work for oil pressure, and temp as well as coolant temp. 
Lets start with oil pressure there are 2 wires i found in the harness and only one wire at the sensor, how is it connected originally. One wire is high and the other is low pressure buzzer trigger. What should i do?
Oil temp I am pretty sure I know where it is on the AWP, and definitively know where it is on the corrado harness (connected oil pressure sensor there and had a FREAK OUT ha ha 320 F oil temps ha ha). Does the ECU need to see that signal or can I just route it to the MFA? Also AWP has 4 wires while G60 had one... confused here.
now finally to coolant temp. If I splice the coolant temp sensor to G60 harness will it work. I guess I should try heh? before I molest my engine harness even more anyone know that?
Thank you folks...


It sounds like you are trying to make the 1.8t run on digi1 ECU and wiring...


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## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (ryanarchy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ryanarchy* »_Anybody got any good tips for installing the front lower crossmember or subframe bushings or whatever you want to call them? I got my old ones out and am having trouble getting the new ones in. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance









Silicon spray, screw driver and patients. Press does help.


----------



## shaman427 (May 6, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Not at all sorry maybe I was not clear. I am running AWP ECU and both AWP harnesses but I kept the CE2 fuze/relay box etc. The ecu has the immo defeat so I can keep the inside of the car OEM as much as possible. I have the speedo and tach working already, but need the engine vitals so be confident driving it. 


_Modified by shaman427 at 11:52 AM 7-29-2009_


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *shaman427* »_Not at all sorry maybe I was not clear. I am running AWP ECU and both AWP harnesses but I kept the CE2 fuze/relay box etc. The ecu has the immo defeat so I can keep the inside of the car OEM as much as possible. I have the speedo and tach working already, but need the engine vitals so be confident driving it. 


You may want to try the swap forum or the 1.8t forum to see where the actual sensors are on the motor but you can use the g60 sensors since they don't run to the ECU at all (oil temp might be the exception)


----------



## shaman427 (May 6, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

so where is the coolant temp sensor on the G60? and why there are two wires for high and low oil pressure on G60 and one sender by the oil filter?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *shaman427* »_so where is the coolant temp sensor on the G60? and why there are two wires for high and low oil pressure on G60 and one sender by the oil filter?


Coolant temp sensor on the g60 is on the front of the head. The one to the cluster is the black sensor. Blue one goes to the ECU.
There are two different presure switches on a g60. the high presure is on the oil filter housing the low presure switch is on the side of the head where the charger oil outlet runs


----------



## shaman427 (May 6, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

awesome Sir that helps a BUNCH. Now I gots to **** around there and make my ish work. Thanks you guys


----------



## ryanarchy (Nov 27, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (shaman427)*

I was reading in pileofredparts auto-x thread that he was using a cis fuel pump in a g60(well kind of a g60







) is this only needed if you are running way outside of the stock hp or some thing that can be done for reliability and performance to any stg4 g60? is it a straight swap or is there something more? would the k-jetronic pump work or would i need the cis-e motronic pump? maybe a good link? Thanks in advance guys this thread has been a great resource to me and i thank all of the experts for taking time to help out the new guys. i was a tech at a vw dealer, so i know how to work on a car, but i havent worked on these screwy corrado's before, and dont know all the tricks yet.


----------



## ryanarchy (Nov 27, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (ryanarchy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ryanarchy* »_I was reading in pileofredparts auto-x thread that he was using a cis fuel pump in a g60(well kind of a g60







) is this only needed if you are running way outside of the stock hp or some thing that can be done for reliability and performance to any stg4 g60? is it a straight swap or is there something more? would the k-jetronic pump work or would i need the cis-e motronic pump? maybe a good link? Thanks in advance guys this thread has been a great resource to me and i thank all of the experts for taking time to help out the new guys. i was a tech at a vw dealer, so i know how to work on a car, but i havent worked on these screwy corrado's before, and dont know all the tricks yet.

i searched and all i could find was that the cis pump puts out like twice the psi of the g60 pump. but is the volume the same? anyone know what fpr i would want to use on a stg4 g-60 with stock injectors? or would the cis pump only be needed for people with above







15psi?(ie:turbo and twin screw applications?)


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (ryanarchy)*

you can use a CIS pump, its a lot more pressure since CIS runs at a ridiculous rating.
Alot of VR6 turbo guys run the CIS pump as an inline pump in conjunction with the stock pump to get more fueling.
It does work fine as a replacement to the digi pump though.


----------



## SlammedGolfIII (Nov 18, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Did'nt know this was here...arg. Anyways....I have an obdII VRT in my 1990 g60 shell. Engine wiring is from a Passat but the fuse panel and body wiring is all original from the 1990. Which wires need be connected to make the signal lights in my gauge clutster function? I have a 93 SLC cluster and 2 different harnesses....I believe I need the one with the few pigtails correct? And if so what do they hook to? Its boggling my mind......


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (SlammedGolfIII)*

One big thing for new guys to definitly make sure you know how to do as some techs at shops are weary of doing, is the Cog belt for the G60. I think that is what just killed my G60 today. I think I got to lax on my maintinance and I am betting that is what killed it today. The carnage below
























I hate it when my car wants piggy back rides.










_Modified by Non_Affiliated at 11:53 AM 10-11-2009_


----------



## skaterazn (Jan 9, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Non_Affiliated)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Non_Affiliated* »_
























Sorry to hear Don. Is it time for a turbo now?


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (skaterazn)*

Uh, not now, seeing this is my daily and I can't afford the time to piece together a set-up and be out of a DD for long. 
As for my other vehicle, it makes Hummers look like Fuel efficent asphault queens.


_Modified by Non_Affiliated at 12:06 AM 8-3-2009_


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Non_Affiliated)*

that g60 is not blown, it is taking it's clothes off so it can be rebuilt. either that, or it is starting the "weight reduction" process early.......


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

that was the least carnage blown G Charger ive seen, be thankfull the displacer didnt shave everything and spit that into the intake. 
Still sux, and I wish you luck on the rebuild.


----------



## VR6Nutt (Dec 18, 2003)

*FV-QR*

Just got the car running again. Motor is having a similar issue that it had in the past. When you get on the gas, the motor feels "constrained" - like it wont rev out as easily and feels like it has less power - like the ECU may cut fuel. It was always an intermittent issue before...like the VR6 had its on days and off days. In thinking about it more, I think it may be the O2 sensor...but I'm not sure. Motor used to burn some (a lot) of oil in the past before rebuild so I wonder if the sensor failed from that- I had to replace my cat not long ago. Is there a way to test the sensor? Any other diags? BTW, coolant sensor (blue) has been replaced.


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (wzach)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wzach* »_that was the least carnage blown G Charger ive seen, be thankfull the displacer didnt shave everything and spit that into the intake. 
Still sux, and I wish you luck on the rebuild. 

That is what scares me, Hoping I lucked out and just blew the casing.
It could be that minimal damage outside means maximum damage inside. I'll cross my fingers.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_lol, yeah, i am sure it will help. it is about how the relays are triggered. in some cars, this "mod" is necessary to help the lows NOT trigger with city's, on others, it is to help them trigger. it is weird, but depends on the tech installing your headliight harness that day. 
if he was hung over, it might be right.









so I finally went to switch those wires last nite on the headlight harness and now have yet another dumb question: how do I get those connectors out of the harness? They appear to be "locked" in. Do I need to cut the wire and order a few new terminal ends? If I cut the wire it's going to be difficult to "reverse" back to original setup if necessary. Am i missing something?


----------



## skaterazn (Jan 9, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
so I finally went to switch those wires last nite on the headlight harness and now have yet another dumb question: how do I get those connectors out of the harness? They appear to be "locked" in. Do I need to cut the wire and order a few new terminal ends? If I cut the wire it's going to be difficult to "reverse" back to original setup if necessary. Am i missing something?

It needs to be de-pinned. get a cheap de-pinnning tool. or use a paper clip. push from the opposite side of the wires.... I'm not good at explaining... google it


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

you need a depinning tool. or a paperclip.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_you need a depinning tool. or a paperclip. 

so as the other guy said also, paperclip and just push it out?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
so as the other guy said also, paperclip and just push it out?


Yup


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

bent paperclip in a U shape, slide in FRONT of pin you are removing. squeeze, and slightly twist, unlocking the little tiny tabs that hold it inn place. 
pull wire out, plug into new home. 
done.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

cool ill try it again tonite. thanks guys


----------



## VR6Nutt (Dec 18, 2003)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *VR6Nutt* »_Just got the car running again. Motor is having a similar issue that it had in the past. When you get on the gas, the motor feels "constrained" - like it wont rev out as easily and feels like it has less power - like the ECU may cut fuel. It was always an intermittent issue before...like the VR6 had its on days and off days. In thinking about it more, I think it may be the O2 sensor...but I'm not sure. Motor used to burn some (a lot) of oil in the past before rebuild so I wonder if the sensor failed from that- I had to replace my cat not long ago. Is there a way to test the sensor? Any other diags? BTW, coolant sensor (blue) has been replaced. 


Anyone?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (VR6Nutt)*

replace your plugs and fuel filter. cheap, and it will atleast eliminate a few variables.


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (VR6Nutt)*

similar to my issues, 
i ended up finding a bad TPS wire, Bad ISV and replaced them as well as the o2, my car is a N/A vr rockett again. (well as much as a n/a vr can be haha)


----------



## Cor32rado (Jun 5, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (wzach)*

well i posted this question on my own thread about sunroofs, but since this is where all the experts hang out I thought this would be a good spot for it as well. What replacement glass sunroof has the best fitment into a g60? B3 Passat? B4 Passat? or MKIII?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Cor32rado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cor32rado* »_well i posted this question on my own thread about sunroofs, but since this is where all the experts hang out I thought this would be a good spot for it as well. What replacement glass sunroof has the best fitment into a g60? B3 Passat? B4 Passat? or MKIII?

B4 is the closest. but all fit.


----------



## g60partduex (Jun 13, 2009)

Hi I am new to the vortex-90 g60 I bought not running. Up and running after new wiring harness and distributor change. Engine is fairly stout Pretty handy in the garage and I have a friend that is a die hard vw fanatic. I have a tone of questions but here we go. Power windows-not working and no power to the swithces on either door. I have re-fused the entire fuse box. The only thing I think I have left to do is to check the relay and verify the wiring which I am doing tonight. Am I missing anything? Any suggestions on where to get the relay. I cannot seem to locate that one. Also, have not located a Bentley manual yet but I am can you post the timing specs. Sorry about the long post


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: (g60partduex)*

yup, the window module also controls a few more things, replace that its behind the driver side rear panel. Big black box, and that would be the best place to start in light of the other work youve done with the fuses.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (wzach)*

make sure the red wire from the WCM is actually getting powered. SOOOOOO many times, that one plug comes out, and people go nuts trying to find it. 
should be plugged into position Y2 in this pic (big red wire, with a thin red plug on the end)


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (wzach)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wzach* »_that was the least carnage blown G Charger ive seen, be thankfull the displacer didnt shave everything and spit that into the intake. 
Still sux, and I wish you luck on the rebuild. 

Maybe so But It broke the end that the eccentric shaft goes into and there were a few chunkies that came out of the charger, but yoeah it didn't seem to pulverize the displacer. At least that is what I can tell so far, haven't taken it apart.


----------



## kevwithoutacorrado (Jun 9, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Non_Affiliated)*

Since questions get answered here:
When an injector fails, will it work intermittently, or is dead dead? # 4 will not click / doesn't work, but when it was becoming a problem, it would run great, then crappy, great then crappy.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (kevwithoutacorrado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kevwithoutacorrado* »_Since questions get answered here:
When an injector fails, will it work intermittently, or is dead dead? # 4 will not click / doesn't work, but when it was becoming a problem, it would run great, then crappy, great then crappy.


when they die, they can get stuck open, or closed. i have seen both cases.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

So who does noobercorn call when he cant figure out wiring? LULZ


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_So who does noobercorn call when he cant figure out wiring? LULZ

the burninator that's who!!! and it wasn't that i couldn't figure it out, i was at home, with no Bentley nor my computer, so i needed some fast help. 
thanks again kyle, you rock!!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
the burninator that's who!!! and it wasn't that i couldn't figure it out, i was at home, with no Bentley nor my computer, so i needed some fast help. 
thanks again kyle, you rock!!


LOL no problem. Bring your netbook with the bentley on it.
Glad you didn't have to afro engineer the fans... Damn fire hazards


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
definitely worth a shot, and easily reversible if need be. 

sooooo I got the HIDs to work, didnt have to switch the NSL wire in the backof the harness thankfully (as I didnt have the patience to keep trying to remove it with a variety of paper clips!).
Anyhow, one last issue here: When the headlights are on and I flip the switch back to the city lights (middle) position, the headlights still stay on. They of course turn off when i push the switch to the off position.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
When the headlights are on and I flip the switch back to the city lights (middle) position, the headlights still stay on. They of course turn off when i push the switch to the off position.









lol, this is EXACTLY why you need to switch the NSL plug. lol, true story.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
lol, this is EXACTLY why you need to switch the NSL plug. lol, true story. 

ok ok... man you guys are gonna make me fight with that thing no matter what, aren't ya?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

here, to test you theory: CUT the white/blk wire, and stick it in the little NSL tab's hole. elec tape it, and yer done (ghetto done, but done nonetheless)


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_here, to test you theory: CUT the white/blk wire, and stick it in the little NSL tab's hole. elec tape it, and yer done (ghetto done, but done nonetheless)

it may come to that! at least to test it anyhow. im just bein whiny... thanks for your help, really!


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

no prob bro, that's what we are here for.


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

I find that Flat jewlers screw drivers work well for removing pins from molded plugs.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Non_Affiliated)*

got the wire into the NSL position now AND MY HEADLIGHTS WORK PROPERLY!!!


----------



## shaman427 (May 6, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

Did this in order for the information to be search-able....................
Hello folks need yer help once again. here is a link to the post I made. thanks again and its a G60 fan related stuff. lots a questions ha ha
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4518909


_Modified by shaman427 at 5:04 PM 8-13-2009_


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Do the re-route. Check for vac leaks also


I got the BBM ISV reroute kit, started the install and hit a dead-end... imagine that! The t/b hose is a short 90 deg piece, so how do you install that metal insert in a angled hose? If I were to line it up with the ISV, it would have to go in the plastic tube that continues down to the intercooler. What am i missing here?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

you should be able to fit the metal T fitting into the 90 coming off the TB without much of an issue.
I believe it may have been designed with aftermarket intercooler pipes in mind.
On mine it lined up without issue.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_you should be able to fit the metal T fitting into the 90 coming off the TB without much of an issue.
I believe it may have been designed with aftermarket intercooler pipes in mind.
On mine it lined up without issue. 

See that's where I think the problem lies... putting a straight T fitting into a 90 deg hose... hows that gonna work?
If it's intended for aftermarket IC piping, I certainly think that would be a point worth them mentioning....


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
See that's where I think the problem lies... putting a straight T fitting into a 90 deg hose... hows that gonna work?
If it's intended for aftermarket IC piping, I certainly think that would be a point worth them mentioning.... 



There should be enough there to put t fitting in there. Pics may help me see what is going on too.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

I checked under the hood of a 1990 G60 we have here... the kit was obviously designed for a 1990, as the tb hose is a 90 degree with a little straight section on it before attaching to the ic pipe.
The 1991 has a very short tb hose, its just a 90 degree with no straight section, and the ic pipe is routed just a little differently.
If you line the ISV hose parallel to the valve cover it leads right into the plastic pipe section.
I dont have the car here but found this pic online, it may help:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

there is enough room to fit the t fitting into the 90... plenty.
The problem is the IC tube is longer than the early cars. May want to call BBM and see what they have to say about it.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Yeah thats what Im saying... the 90 has plenty of room, the 91 (as pictured) is way too tight.
I actually just heard back from BBM: _"You can either cram it in up there….this is what most people do or…
You can splice the t-fitting into the hose going over the radiator fan and then get a longer piece of hose going from the ISV to the t-fitting."_
I think I'll go for the second option, cramming doesn't seem like a good connection... its such a short tb hose it would almost certainly leak...


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (shaman427)*


_Quote, originally posted by *shaman427* »_Hello folks need yer help once again. here is a link to the post I made. thanks again and its a G60 fan related stuff. lots a questions ha ha
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4518909

looks like you got it sorted


----------



## shaman427 (May 6, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

thanks I did with better than expected results. Less wiring and simpler system. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (shaman427)*

100% agree!!!!!!!!


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

Will the headlight assemblies from a 91 G60 fit into a 93 VR6?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Will the headlight assemblies from a 91 G60 fit into a 93 VR6?


Yes, but there will be a bit of a gap at the fender and they will sit in a bit further


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

thanks... i have 2 drivers side ones from my G60 that Im trying to get rid of.....


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

g60 lights look yucky on VR's IMO. they sit too far back/not flush with the grill.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

ok, my turn.....
how do you get the VSS from an earlier car to talk to the spoiler control module when you are running stand alone? the cluster is mechanical. 
thoughts?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_ok, my turn.....
how do you get the VSS from an earlier car to talk to the spoiler control module when you are running stand alone? the cluster is mechanical. 
thoughts? 


Wait cluster is mechanical? Like speedo cable?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

yep. is an early 160 mph cluster.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_yep. is an early 160 mph cluster. 


You need an early speedo harness to go with it. Most of the pinouts are different from the late style.
There is a blue with white wire that is on the back of the cluster that sends a VSS signal to a white with blue wire on the spoiler controller


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

ok, that's what i wanted to confirm, that the CLUSTER tells the older cars when to put up a spoiler, where as the VSS on the new ones does. 
kyle is the man!
oh, and where does one find the spring thingy for the ABF alt mounting parts? 
and what belt do i use?????


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_ok, that's what i wanted to confirm, that the CLUSTER tells the older cars when to put up a spoiler, where as the VSS on the new ones does. 
kyle is the man!
oh, and where does one find the spring thingy for the ABF alt mounting parts? 
and what belt do i use????? 


ABF... does the spring sit under the alt instead of having a tensioner?
I will find out belt size for you in a few mike


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*









Spring thing part number
028 903 329
belt part number for generic part
6PK-894


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

see, this thread rocks!!!!!!!!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_see, this thread rocks!!!!!!!!


totally perfect for noobs like you Mike


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

absolutely!!!! if i knew anything i wouldnt be driving a VW in the first place


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_absolutely!!!! if i knew anything i wouldnt be driving a VW in the first place










*cough* p car WHAT???


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

almost there buddy, almost


----------



## JayNiche (May 10, 2006)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

Not really a noob but my searches are coming up short. I'm trying to change my front subframe without a lift. Does anyone have a detailed acount of their experiences doing this, the search leads to a link on the CCC website that is expired. 
Yes the engine is supported, yes I have a bentley, yes I've done front end work on my car before, yes I have good beer and little patience, yes my fiance is pissed off and hates me and the car... so everything seems right. I just need to finish it. I'm down to unhooking the steering joint and that's about it I hope.....I just want some PICTURES to be sure I'm doing it right. Plus I want to be sure I'm not going to be crushed to death by a piece of **** G60. Thanks guys, I love you miscreants always (even though I've been MIA for some time now)
-Jay


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

deff make sure the engine isn't going anywhere. remove the knuckles at the ball joint and leave that assembly hangin.
Unbolt rack from subframe (4 nuts) that way you can just leave the rack there while you drop the subframe
Unbolt rear motor mount and rear transmount.
Support subframe and unbolt that lower it down and you are done

other way to do it is this:

remove the knuckles at the ball joint and leave that assembly hangin.
disconnect steering knuckle, disconnect power steering lines and drain them
Unbolt rear motor mount and rear transmount.
Support subframe and unbolt that lower it down and you are done


----------



## JayNiche (May 10, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

^Thanks very much. That's pretty much what I figured, not dropping the steering rack would be awesome. I know it seems redundant but some pics or a thread would help me out greatly if anyone can find some.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *JayNiche* »_^Thanks very much. That's pretty much what I figured, not dropping the steering rack would be awesome. I know it seems redundant but some pics or a thread would help me out greatly if anyone can find some.


I wish I had some...
You should be ok. If you run into issues, send me an IM and I will give you my phone number and help walk you through it


----------



## JayNiche (May 10, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

cool thank you http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## shaman427 (May 6, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (JayNiche)*

I have good beer and little patience, yes my fiance is pissed off and hates me and the car... so everything seems right

Ha HA hA Awesome man sounds like my life... Thanks for the new siggy


----------



## AceWaters (Sep 2, 2008)

alright here's an easy one.. 205/40/17's safe/mountable to run on 8.5" wheels? waiting to click the "confirm" button. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*FV-QR*

i hae 205/40 on 9". your fine ace...stretch is good....


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *AceWaters* »_alright here's an easy one.. 205/40/17's safe/mountable to run on 8.5" wheels? waiting to click the "confirm" button. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


Yer good... I wish I had 195's on my 9's


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

hey guys...trying to figure out the remainder of my brake stuff...and I'm missing the vaccum hose/pipe that goes from intake manifold to brake booster check valve. I got the 16V g60 set up so my intake manifold is diff.
My question is, can I throw on an aftermarket summit brake booster check valve into the brake booster (with hose barb) and run a vac hose from there up to the back of the nipple on intake manifold straight up. Or do I have to put a T fitting onto that line to run vaccum to somewhere else?


_Modified by dpgreek at 9:37 AM 8-21-2009_


----------



## AceWaters (Sep 2, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (wzach)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wzach* »_i hae 205/40 on 9". your fine ace...stretch is good....

thank you zach! and thank you kyle! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_hey guys...trying to figure out the remainder of my brake stuff...and I'm missing the vaccum hose/pipe that goes from intake manifold to brake booster check valve. I got the 16V g60 set up so my intake manifold is diff.
My question is, can I throw on an aftermarket summit brake booster check valve into the brake booster (with hose barb) and run a vac hose from there up to the back of the nipple on intake manifold straight up. Or do I have to put a T fitting onto that line to run vaccum to somewhere else?


Use the summit check valve that we discussed before and run the hose directly to the port on the back side of the 16v manifold


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *AceWaters* »_
thank you zach! and thank you kyle! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


No problem! STRETCH them bitchez


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

how do you replace the driver side kneebar pad? I know it sounds stupid but


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (skaterhernandez4)*

two screws, pull out and UP


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

to install it? that sounds like removal procedure.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (skaterhernandez4)*

*still in wiring hell* 
I managed to label and ID a ton of stuff coming out of the fuse panel. However, there is one 4-pin connector I can't seem to find. It seems to go in the steering columnish area...
The wire colors are red/black, gray/green, black, brown


----------



## onavarro8 (Oct 3, 2006)

I gotta question. What kind of coolant/ how much water:coolant do you use for the corrado. 
I have a 93 corrado and almost every time I drive it it will leak coolant all over the floor whenever I turn off the car. 
It seems like alot of pressure builds up and then the coolant starts leaking but only after I drive it. If I just let the car sit it doesnt leak anything.
any ideas??


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: (onavarro8)*

leaks on the floor? inside the car? bad heater core. 
check your vin with the dealer, and see if youve had the recall work done.
good luck.
1 gallon g11(blue stuff) or g12(pink stuff) coolant and 50/50/ mix with distilled water. no green coolant,


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: (onavarro8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *onavarro8* »_I gotta question. What kind of coolant/ how much water:coolant do you use for the corrado. 
I have a 93 corrado and almost every time I drive it it will leak coolant all over the floor whenever I turn off the car. 
It seems like alot of pressure builds up and then the coolant starts leaking but only after I drive it. If I just let the car sit it doesnt leak anything.
any ideas??

In My G60 I use one gallon of coolent and roughly 1 gallon of water. VR6 May use just slightly more, but not much.
Does the car leak on cool down? Or does it leak while running? Is coolent boiling over in your resivor? Did you just do something with the coolent system, i.e. change t-stat?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (Non_Affiliated)*

t stat could be stuck
cap on reservoir could be bad
reservoir could be bad
headgasket could be blown, causing exhaust gassess to get in the water jackets
water pump could be bad
after run pump could be bad
fan control module could be bad
aux fan switch could be bad
the list goes on. 
need to know where the leak is, and how long the cars has to run or sit for it to happen. also, if you let the car idle for 10 min, will the fans kick on? 
do you have AC? if so, when you turn it on, do the fans come on?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_t stat could be stuck
cap on reservoir could be bad
reservoir could be bad
headgasket could be blown, causing exhaust gassess to get in the water jackets
water pump could be bad
after run pump could be bad
fan control module could be bad
aux fan switch could be bad
the list goes on. 
need to know where the leak is, and how long the cars has to run or sit for it to happen. also, if you let the car idle for 10 min, will the fans kick on? 
do you have AC? if so, when you turn it on, do the fans come on? 


Oh and your mom's horoscope would be good too.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Oh and your mom's horoscope would be good too.

ok charlie..........


----------



## raidensdad (Mar 26, 2009)

ok drove corrado from Indy to Illinois everything was fine, then while in illinois later in the day it overheated, ended up blowing head gasket cause i added water before it was cool oooopps
ANyways replace headgasket put everything together with new gaskets, drove it around town for a while everything was fine (a little sluggish on the pickup but working none the less) Then I was driving it back home to Indy I was getting passed on the highway and could not seem to accelerate worth a crap. Pulled off about 40 miles into the trip to check on everything (gauge cluster doesnt work so no idea speed or temp) steam was rolling out, got out looked no leaks. The top radiator hose was hard as a rock and about to burst, the bottom was squeezable, released some pressure through the reservoir and while i was waiting on the engine to cool i noticed the serpentine belt had been devoured. Now I'm thinking that is probably what cause the overheating, but maybe not because it was over heating before. Also I'm not sure if it is the tensioner or the waterpump because it wasnt making any noise as in squeels or anything. 
Suggestions to test before spending even more moneys ?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

head is warped causing the gasket to not seat


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

anyone for the wiring question above?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_anyone for the wiring question above?

only 4 pin that goes to fuse block is position V, and it is for the MFA....... http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Here we go pros. I want to get amber turn siginals for my vr6 all i can seem to find on the net is amber g60 turns from EPP, will these work or do you guys know of else where that carries vr6 amber turns? Thanks ahead of time


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (Das.Rado)*

amber fronts? like, next to the fogs? cause they only made them for the G60, and you will need to alter a VR fog light housing/bracket to make them work. or, do the steps in the write up in this thread..........
19 posts down, written by "evilrobot"
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3325653


----------



## raidensdad (Mar 26, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

I had it magnafluxed, resurfaced and checked so I know for sure the head isnt warped


----------



## ryanarchy (Nov 27, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (raidensdad)*

I know the g60 distributor is a hall sender, is that considered a magnetic pickup? the reason i ask is i was thinking of installing a msd 6al ignition system and am trying to figure out if it will work with out a ton of hassle. anybody had experience with these and if so, was it a worthwhile modification? Thanks.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *ryanarchy* »_I know the g60 distributor is a hall sender, is that considered a magnetic pickup? the reason i ask is i was thinking of installing a msd 6al ignition system and am trying to figure out if it will work with out a ton of hassle. anybody had experience with these and if so, was it a worthwhile modification? Thanks.


Honestly you could get away with just a higher output coil rather than dealing with a whole MSD 6al on it. It would be much more cost effective


----------



## pursuit99 (Apr 3, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

I've got a question for you guys... looking at buying my first Corrado.
The car was previously a parts car with a lot of electrical interior pieces removed (window switches/motors, heater controls, sunroof controls and vacuum pump for power locks).
The current owner has most of the pieces back, although nothing installed right now, the interior is basically gutted.
I'm just wondering if there's something missing or something doesn't work, are they the same as a B3 Passat? If it's all Corrado specific, I'd be afraid of how quickly a few pieces could add up


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (pursuit99)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pursuit99* »_I've got a question for you guys... looking at buying my first Corrado.
The car was previously a parts car with a lot of electrical interior pieces removed (window switches/motors, heater controls, sunroof controls and vacuum pump for power locks).
The current owner has most of the pieces back, although nothing installed right now, the interior is basically gutted.
I'm just wondering if there's something missing or something doesn't work, are they the same as a B3 Passat? If it's all Corrado specific, I'd be afraid of how quickly a few pieces could add up

im not an expert like burninator or noobercorn, but i would say that yes the switches and controls you see inside are corrado-specific. Some of the motors and such may be shared, but the corrado has a lot of "different" stuff on it.
Most of the switches and controls are readily available from other part-outs, or (pardon the plug here) a shop like us or many other vw shops on vortex.
buy it, have lots of money and time to throw at it, dont get frustrated, and join the club


----------



## pursuit99 (Apr 3, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

I've got time, but not much money to put into it. 
It's a nearly finished diesel swap and I know the mk2 platform well enough that I should be able to keep the mechanical side running fairly well. It's all pretty solid underneath anyway. I figure if I do a lot of the wiring myself right away, I'll have a pretty good idea of what's gone wrong before tearing my interior back out. Maybe starting out from scratch on all the finicky little things that go wrong will work out in my favour. 
I've wanted a Corrado since I was about 10 years old and this is my first chance at possibly joining the club!


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (pursuit99)*

alright im being lazy, what number fuse is for the radio


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *pursuit99* »_I've got time, but not much money to put into it. 
It's a nearly finished diesel swap and I know the mk2 platform well enough that I should be able to keep the mechanical side running fairly well. It's all pretty solid underneath anyway. I figure if I do a lot of the wiring myself right away, I'll have a pretty good idea of what's gone wrong before tearing my interior back out. Maybe starting out from scratch on all the finicky little things that go wrong will work out in my favour. 
I've wanted a Corrado since I was about 10 years old and this is my first chance at possibly joining the club!



What diesel did you swap in?
Switches are pretty specific. What year is the car? I may have some sitting around that I could send your way for a decent price.
There are actually very few things the corrado shares with other cars when it comes to interior motors etc. One is the window control module, it shares that with eurovan. The seat belts window reg's etc etc are all different.

_Quote, originally posted by *nu2dubbing* »_alright im being lazy, what number fuse is for the radio


Fuse 22... last one on the right its a 10 amp


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

Thank you


----------



## pursuit99 (Apr 3, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_

What diesel did you swap in?
Switches are pretty specific. What year is the car? I may have some sitting around that I could send your way for a decent price.
There are actually very few things the corrado shares with other cars when it comes to interior motors etc. One is the window control module, it shares that with eurovan. The seat belts window reg's etc etc are all different.


It was the current owner who swapped it in, I haven't bought it yet.
The engine is an AAZ from a '94 Jetta into a 1990 Corrado, still the G60 transmission.
I searched through Vortex classifieds and the prices aren't too bad so I think I might pick it up! It's a definitely a project car, but finding another Corrado that mechanically solid for that price would be a miracle


----------



## onavarro8 (Oct 3, 2006)

*Re: (Non_Affiliated)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wzach* »_leaks on the floor? inside the car? bad heater core. 


oh no I meant on the floor on my driveway. Il get some blue or pink coolant see if that changes anything because I was using green.


_Quote, originally posted by *Non_Affiliated* »_
Does the car leak on cool down? Or does it leak while running? Is coolent boiling over in your resivor? Did you just do something with the coolent system, i.e. change t-stat? 

It leaks on cool down. After driving the car when I shut it off it takes a piss. I have noticed the coolant boiling in the resevoir is that bad??
I have not done anything to the coolant system.


----------



## dirtofcleveland (Jan 15, 2008)

*Re: (onavarro8)*

1990 g60
it hasn't had any troubles starting (at first), i had noticed while it started it ran rough while idle till i reved the engine and it would run good after that. one day after driving it for a while on and off, i parked and shut it off. then about 20 minutes later i couldn't start it, it didn't even attempt to. so i pushed it out of the spot and a buddy of mine came and jumped it and it started no problem at all. and ran fine for about a week.
then i wen't out one random day and it was dead, not starting again, and i tried to jump it again, and it still wouldn't start... the battery is about 5 months old.


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: (dirtofcleveland)*


_Quote, originally posted by *onavarro8* »_
oh no I meant on the floor on my driveway. Il get some blue or pink coolant see if that changes anything because I was using green.


bad...... do a flush. green will eat your cylinder head and head gasket. 

_Quote, originally posted by *onavarro8* »_
It leaks on cool down. After driving the car when I shut it off it takes a piss. I have noticed the coolant boiling in the resevoir is that bad??
I have not done anything to the coolant system.


start with replacing the cap to the resevior bottle, its the cheapest. check for leaks around the bottle and especially at the bottom where the coolant line is attached. youll probably need to clean it to check. also remove the plastic cover on the side of the bottle for checking that. 
what are the temps like when you stop?

_Quote, originally posted by *dirtofcleveland* »_*1990 g60..............ran good at first..... 20 minutes later i couldn't start it......jumped it .........ran fine for about a week.
then ........ it was dead, not starting again,... the battery is about 5 months old.*

wow...alrighty. so simplified i get it. 
you have a parasitic battery drain. either a bad ground, battery terminal, altenator, or, a bad battery. they do go bad sometimes. ill leave this one to some other people cause that is so general of an issue that needs a proper mechanical diagnosis IMO. 
corrado ownership. renowned for their wiring marvels.


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

*Re: (wzach)*

Does anybody have a simplified diagram for VR6 vacuum lines? The Bentley is somewhat ambiguous and I'm trying to figure out if mine are all hooked up proper.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (wzach)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wzach* »_
you have a parasitic battery drain. either a bad ground, battery terminal, altenator, or, a bad battery. they do go bad sometimes.

sounds like a bad alternator. why is the battery 5 mo's old? what made you replace it? that will give me more insight.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (iAco)*

On a G60, what function does the sensor/switch thats mounted on the bracket in between the intake mani and the valve cover perform?
It's a one-wire switch, and the sensor part of it just threads into the bracket. Part number 535919521


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (iAco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *iAco* »_Does anybody have a simplified diagram for VR6 vacuum lines? The Bentley is somewhat ambiguous and I'm trying to figure out if mine are all hooked up proper.

lol, there are like 3 lines, how can you mess that up?


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
lol, there are like 3 lines, how can you mess that up?










The one coming off the front of the intake near the FPR. I don't have one. Where does that go to?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (iAco)*

skinny goes from FPR to manifold.
fat one goes from manifold to booster


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_fat one goes from manifold to booster

Where on the booster does it go? Sorry if this sounds extremely noobish. Mine never had this line and I don't know where some of these "common" things go to.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (iAco)*

actually, you have a 93 it appears. you should have the fatty going to a set of two nipples. 
feeding the EGR and evap....

the fatty is line #5 in this pic.........


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*

hey noob... you know anything on this:
On a G60, what function does the sensor/switch thats mounted on the bracket in between the intake manifold and the valve cover perform?
It's a one-wire switch, and the sensor part of it just threads into the bracket. Part number 535919521


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_On a G60, what function does the sensor/switch thats mounted on the bracket in between the intake mani and the valve cover perform?
It's a one-wire switch, and the sensor part of it just threads into the bracket. Part number 535919521 


Fuel pump and fan after run switch.


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_actually, you have a 93 it appears. you should have the fatty going to a set of two nipples. 
feeding the EGR and evap....

the fatty is line #5 in this pic.........










So if I got rid of the entire EGR assembly, that fat line should go to that other nipple leading to the back of the engine bay right?
Also 'C' if I don't have an EGR should be capped off that the intake hose coming off the main intake boot?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Fuel pump and fan after run switch.

AH HAH! so maybe thats why my fan is erratic about running after the car is turned off, and sometimes wont shut off w/o pulling the fuse. All other sensors and relays for it are good.
The switch on mine is kinda rough looking, the terminal is hanging on by a thread. I'll get that replaced ASAP!
thanks!


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
AH HAH! so maybe thats why my fan is erratic about running after the car is turned off, and sometimes wont shut off w/o pulling the fuse. All other sensors and relays for it are good.
The switch on mine is kinda rough looking, the terminal is hanging on by a thread. I'll get that replaced ASAP!
thanks!


Clean up the threads. That is the ground for the sensor.
Also you may want to check out your fan control module for the fan issues. That sounds like it is the problem. There could be a wire missing some insulation there.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (iAco)*

cap off A and C and remove entire EGR assembly. use an oil pan drain plug to plug the large hole in the intake manifold.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Clean up the threads. That is the ground for the sensor.
Also you may want to check out your fan control module for the fan issues. That sounds like it is the problem. There could be a wire missing some insulation there.

what I meant to say is the terminal is about to break off of the sensor, so it should be replaced anyway. Does the sensor just read the ambient temp under the hood?
Where's that fan control module at?


----------



## dirtofcleveland (Jan 15, 2008)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
sounds like a bad alternator. why is the battery 5 mo's old? what made you replace it? that will give me more insight. 

i bought the car from a gentlemen 5 months ago and the battery was old and the car sat for (he told me) over a year... so it had troubles starting then and he replaced the battery when i wen't to pick it up.


_Modified by dirtofcleveland at 8:33 AM 8-28-2009_


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (dirtofcleveland)*

hmmmm. 
do you have a voltmeter? when the car is dead, does the battery register any voltage? sound sooooo much like an ignition switch, unless it is indeed dead or low voltage battery, then you have a drain. 
do you have a test light, fluke, or voltmeter of any kind?


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_cap off A and C and remove entire EGR assembly. use an oil pan drain plug to plug the large hole in the intake manifold. 

Awesome. But where does the other line go to from that fat line?
'A' goes to the EGR. 
But where does that other one go to?


----------



## dirtofcleveland (Jan 15, 2008)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_hmmmm. 
do you have a voltmeter? when the car is dead, does the battery register any voltage? sound sooooo much like an ignition switch, unless it is indeed dead or low voltage battery, then you have a drain. 
do you have a test light, fluke, or voltmeter of any kind? 

ive got a voltmeter, but since the last jump its been starting no problems. just when it does start it runs rough during idle (the red battery light on my dash is on) then i rev my engine and the red light goes away also and it starts running fine again.... till it dies and needs jumped again.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (dirtofcleveland)*

check voltage at idle, and after sitting for ~ 1 hr and report back. 
and FYI, the batt light comes on if you stall, so that is not entirely indicative of anything


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
what I meant to say is the terminal is about to break off of the sensor, so it should be replaced anyway. Does the sensor just read the ambient temp under the hood?
Where's that fan control module at?


Kinda... when a certain temp is hit it turns on, if that temp isn't hit it doesn't.
fan control module is the mess of wires right by the coolant bowl


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Kinda... when a certain temp is hit it turns on, if that temp isn't hit it doesn't.
fan control module is the mess of wires right by the coolant bowl *that should be removed and thrown away cause it sucks a fat one.* 

fixed,


----------



## dirtofcleveland (Jan 15, 2008)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_check voltage at idle, and after sitting for ~ 1 hr and report back. 
and FYI, the batt light comes on if you stall, so that is not entirely indicative of anything

....if i let it sit for one hour it'll over heat. haha i have a cooling issue too...


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

regarding your "fixed" quote there... is that module easily bypassed, or is that headaches?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

not easy if you are unfamiliar with the wiring. 
basically, you delete it, and put a relay in so when your car is on, the fans are on. that's how i have mine, and it works awesome.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_not easy if you are unfamiliar with the wiring. 
basically, you delete it, and put a relay in so when your car is on, the fans are on. that's how i have mine, and it works awesome. 

it does sound like a good idea, my fans are on all the time anyway since you have to have the a/c on in FL pretty much all year!


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

there ya go


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
fixed, 


Hence why my cooling system is made up of a 2 relays and slimline fans now

_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_regarding your "fixed" quote there... is that module easily bypassed, or is that headaches?


Pain in the ass...
You would need to build your own relay harness for the fans to replace it.


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_not easy if you are unfamiliar with the wiring. 
basically, you delete it, and put a relay in so when your car is on, the fans are on. that's how i have mine, and it works awesome. 


2 relays... 1 for low speed 1 for high speed would be the ideal way but alot of people wire it all to just the high speed only.


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## germanengineering g60 (Aug 20, 2007)

1992 G60 corrado
268/260 camshaft
autotech cam
neuspeed wires
iradium plugs
42 pound injectors
68mm pulley
rebuilt charger
set at 3.5 adjustable FPR
ac eliminated
some vacuum hoses removed and plugged
ISV re routed

What chip do I need for my ECU?


----------



## ryanarchy (Nov 27, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

What kind of coil would you reccomend?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: (germanengineering g60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *germanengineering g60* »_1992 G60 corrado
268/260 camshaft
autotech cam
neuspeed wires
iradium plugs
42 pound injectors
68mm pulley
rebuilt charger
set at 3.5 adjustable FPR
ac eliminated
some vacuum hoses removed and plugged
ISV re routed

What chip do I need for my ECU?


One that is made for those injectors


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: (dirtofcleveland)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dirtofcleveland* »_
ive got a voltmeter, but since the last jump its been starting no problems. just when it does start it runs rough during idle (the red battery light on my dash is on) then i rev my engine and the red light goes away also and it starts running fine again.... till it dies and needs jumped again.

Pull the battery wires and throw the battery on a charger. That is the proper way to charge a battery. The alternator is there to yes charge the system when needed, but isn't the idel for fully charging a battery.
Also I would look into the possiblility that your voltage regulator may be going, i.e. Brushes wearing down too low. Or possibly the Alt to starter to Battery wires may need replacing if you have a good alt and read low alternator running voltage.
Here is a run down of voltages you should see.
Ignition off, reading across the battery 12.5 to 12.6V
Car running, read across battery ground to alternator B+ post 13.6 to 14.4V
Car running, read across battery ground and Battery + post 13.6 to 14.4V
If there is a large difference between the Alt+ and BAttery + Voltage there maybe too much resistance in the cable causeing a voltage drop. That is usually when you up-grade, or replace the cables.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: (Non_Affiliated)*

Hey all...gotta 16V g60 set up in a rado. Looking to find out what hose / pipe do I use to go from the thermostat over to the rado VR Radiator. I know the g60 had that metal coolant pipe...but I don't know where it fits or if it does at all. gotta 9a motor and BBM brackets for swap


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: (dpgreek)*

also ran into another snag. So here's the deal...it's a 2 part dilemma...in pic one...I have the water pump pulley turned one way which I think is wrong since it doesn't line up at all with the crank.








in this picture, I flipped the water pump pulley over....and it seems to fit better...however still doesn't line up. I'm assuming that I need the BBM spacer (which I bought) to make it fit? Is that correct?








last thought.....if you look at the way the power steering pump pulley and the crank pulley / ps integration work...they don't quite line up.....Kyle is suggesting that I need to get that gruvenparts.com pulley shaved down? Is that the case?


----------



## mustloveclutch (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*

3 vacuum lines hahaha vw vacuum systems have given me high blood pressure at age 22. has someone suggested obtaining an ETKA of the lines? if you cant find the program, just go to a parts dept, smile a lot, and ask for the ETKA print out. bringing donuts wouldnt hurt, either.


----------



## mustloveclutch (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

a) where do I find a new headlight switch for my 92 rodo slc? im sure everyone has noticed their obsolete... 
b)what do i need to know about progressive rate springs to figure out why my seemingly-good eibach sportline (came with car) ride like bedsprings on my struts? i only understand stock.
-92 vr6, mods numerous & still being discovered, purchased from someone completely clueless about car that thankfully did not screw with it. Mods made by competent mechanic.
-solid mechanical skills (really, i promise) 
-suspension mods- front & rear sway bars, Bilstein sport struts, mysterious Eibach sportline springs I dont understand, apparently.
-lights- bad switch, fogs that must have short cause relay heats up when on (but no light), driving by light of parking bulbs & holding brights on in the rain.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (mustloveclutch)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mustloveclutch* »_a) where do I find a new headlight switch for my 92 rodo slc? im sure everyone has noticed their obsolete... 

contact christian (heizervr6 aka [email protected], http://www.europeanperformanceproducts.com/)[/b]
b)what do i need to know about progressive rate springs to figure out why my seemingly-good eibach sportline (came with car) ride like bedsprings on my struts? i only understand stock.
*nothing, your shocks are shot. get a set of bilstein HD's and you will be rockin and rollin. or a set of tokiko adjustables. both nice rides with lowering springs. 
*
-92 vr6, mods numerous & still being discovered, purchased from someone completely clueless about car that thankfully did not screw with it. Mods made by competent mechanic.
-solid mechanical skills (really, i promise) 
*lol, we trust you. *


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

So what if the guy that rents a spot at my shop decided to fill tranny in the wrong hole? Say... the flywheel inspection hole? LMAO
True story happened tonight. Got tranny oil all over the floor.
So as an FYI when replacing tranny fluid do the following:
Remove fill plug to make sure you can refill it... (it is on the front of the tranny not the top.
Remove drain plug (on the bottom on the diff housing)
Replace drain plug after you drain.
Fill through hole in front until it dribbles out.
Remember the plug on the bellhousing is NOT where you fill it


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (TheBurninator)*

anyone on the pulley?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_anyone on the pulley?


Needs to be machined 6mm
The ABA crank pulley on a 16v doesn't line up without being machined.
Since the Timing belt pulleys on a 16v are wider than the ones on an ABA you have to offset that for the accessory pulley by machining it 6mm


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

what side of it? or where does it need to be machined?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_what side of it? or where does it need to be machined?


The side that meets the other pulley. I will see if I can find more detailed stuff in the hybrid forum for you. But yeah thats what needs to happen for it to line up.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

damn...it's one integrated piece...so odds are that won't work at all






















this is why I can't get anywhere with this damn car.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_damn...it's one integrated piece...so odds are that won't work at all


It should... as long as there is meat there to machine off.
You machine the side that is touching the timing pulley


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Kyle (if you dont mind me calling you Kyle) I have an A/C question for you:
My G60's a/c compressor seized, so its not re-buildable. I certainly dont want to buy a new oem one, even at wholesale its price is waaaay too high.
Do you know if the compressor from a vr6 corrado will work if i swap the clutch and rear cap from the case of mine? The vr6 unit uses a block for the lines, mine has the lines directly threaded into the comp. 
I just assume as long as the ears are in the same spots (I guess thats really my question) then I should be good? It appears all of these cars use the same "chassis" from Sanden.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Kyle (if you dont mind me calling you Kyle) 

call him SIR god dammit.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
call him SIR god dammit. 

yezzah, yezzah my apologies


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

haha, im not Kyle, but can take this one. 
If you use a Vr compressor, you will need a custom fabbed adapter for the lines or use corrado or passat ac lines to run the later compressor. Im not sure on the wiring, but that may need to be spliced in. 
I believe the AC high/low pressure switch is also different on the later cars.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (wzach)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wzach* »_haha, im not Kyle, but can take this one. 
If you use a Vr compressor, you will need a custom fabbed adapter for the lines or use corrado or passat ac lines to run the later compressor. Im not sure on the wiring, but that may need to be spliced in. 
I believe the AC high/low pressure switch is also different on the later cars. 


I have a comp here from a 88-92 golf 1.6 / 1.8 that looks like it may be a better match... maybe. The end cap is the same, clutch would have to be switched out, dunno bout the hi/low switch tho. any thoughts?
The switch may be an issue tho....


_Modified by [email protected] at 1:58 PM 8-31-2009_


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

those a2 ones should have the same clutch. if not then yes swap that over but it should work using that one as it too is a r12 set up. 
as for the high/low pressure switch, ther was something different between the newer and older that i cannot think of as i am supposed to be working...hahah
i believe it is a 2 wire on the old, and 4 wire on the new ones. 
AC systems suck donkey dont they...haha. 
I have a car with working (last 3 months) ac for the first time since 2004. 








i hope you can get it sorted.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (wzach)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wzach* »_those a2 ones should have the same clutch. if not then yes swap that over but it should work using that one as it too is a r12 set up. 
as for the high/low pressure switch, ther was something different between the newer and older that i cannot think of as i am supposed to be working...hahah
i believe it is a 2 wire on the old, and 4 wire on the new ones. 
AC systems suck donkey dont they...haha. 
I have a car with working (last 3 months) ac for the first time since 2004. 








i hope you can get it sorted. 


the clutch on this one will have to be swapped, no big deal.
im going to assume for the moment that the pressure switch is the same between the golf and the g60. i hope i assume correctly. it happens occasionally. mine and this golf one are both a two wire. yay!
the a/c issue wouldnt be such a big deal if the g60 compressors werent such a ripoff.







It sucks even more because the car is running really well now, but it just sits in my driveway because as you may know, ITS TOO HOT HERE TO DRIVE WITH NO A/C!!! UGHHHHH!








thanks for your help man!!










_Modified by [email protected] at 2:17 PM 8-31-2009_


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Jared,
Ya cool if you call me Kyle. Sir is only for when Mike calls me!
The mk2 compressor is a direct swap other than the clutch is different so you would need to swap that with a G60 clutch/pulley
The ABA setup MAY be a direct swap too. but it may be more like a VR6 compressor in the way the lines are done.
I am dreading wiring my AC stuff... I don't have a wiring harness at all for mine...


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_Jared,
Ya cool if you call me Kyle. Sir is only for when Mike calls me!
The mk2 compressor is a direct swap other than the clutch is different so you would need to swap that with a G60 clutch/pulley
The ABA setup MAY be a direct swap too. but it may be more like a VR6 compressor in the way the lines are done.
I am dreading wiring my AC stuff... I don't have a wiring harness at all for mine...










so swap the clutch onto the mk2 golf comp and I should be golden... almost sounds too good to be true


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
so swap the clutch onto the mk2 golf comp and I should be golden... almost sounds too good to be true


It could be... it is a Corrado
But it should be good to go


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

wow, you guys are making me wish i had AC. frosty air while driving sounds crazy!


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

its so hot here right now I cant even drive the car without a/c. Sad to say its just sitting in my driveway... lonely.... and without a/c.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

i havent had AC for years. i either ruin it, or just take it out


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

It was barely 80 degrees at lunch today... Was 58 when I left the house this morning... AHHH fall in colorado. perfect weather.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

average daily temp here has been about 90-95, the "feels like" temp is about 100 - 102 with the humidity factored in.
i hate you


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Really me an Jared here have it made......I <3 FL weather especially when its sunny and 40's in the winter. 
The sun is warm on your skin and the cold air is nice for the throttle. 
Win Win.
Really everyone with a Corrado should move here. No emissions is KEY to a trifecta win. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Ok, maybe not "move" here, you guys can visit....lol


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (wzach)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wzach* »_Really me an Jared here have it made......I <3 FL weather especially when its sunny and 40's in the winter. 


yeah i agree... that one day per year when it dips into the 40's is fantastic








i guess the summer is the price we pay for the cooler months.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Eff emissions... Bill getting passed so the last two counties in Colorado (my shop is in one of them) require emissions next year. So much for not having to deal with that crap


----------



## mustloveclutch (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

-thanks for the tips. I got fed up and pulled my switch, cleaned contact surface & bulked up the points with solder. Victory!
-I was all for buyin bilstien springs til I read eibachs 'million mile warranty'.. i'm cheap, and they promise to make these springs everlasting. I want something out of this promise... I will bother them a bit about being several hundred thousand miles short of expressed warranty.
-new prob: bought thermo housing kit w/ metal crackpipe from germanautoparts.com- cannot get it watertight at sensors or lower housing-pipe intersect. spent days putting it together, taking it apart, tweaking order of bolt assembly, got crazy with detail. very sad.
-thanks for believing me lol i am 5'2'' and female; in person i must often work really hard to prove i know how to pop the hood all by myself.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (mustloveclutch)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mustloveclutch* »_-thanks for the tips. I got fed up and pulled my switch, cleaned contact surface & bulked up the points with solder. Victory!
-I was all for buyin bilstien springs til I read eibachs 'million mile warranty'.. i'm cheap, and they promise to make these springs everlasting. I want something out of this promise... I will bother them a bit about being several hundred thousand miles short of expressed warranty.
-new prob: bought thermo housing kit w/ metal crackpipe from germanautoparts.com- cannot get it watertight at sensors or lower housing-pipe intersect. spent days putting it together, taking it apart, tweaking order of bolt assembly, got crazy with detail. very sad.
-thanks for believing me lol i am 5'2'' and female; in person i must often work really hard to prove i know how to pop the hood all by myself.









Bilstien doesn't make springs. They make the struts that keep the car from bouncing all over the place.
Springs and struts go together like PB & J!
Your springs are fine but your struts are bad. Order new ones! That is the issue
When you put the new crackpipe and thermo housing in did you replace the gaskets? Also I find it useful to lube the rubber a bit before sticking it in. (yep lube is always better)
I bet Noobercorn asks you for nude pics in less than a day now since you said you didn't have a *****


----------



## chip_pirate2003 (Dec 1, 2007)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (TheBurninator)*

So I'm pretty new here, I have had my Corrado for 6 months and have my share of problems to date. Anyways, my Corrado is a Canadian Corrado, with a Nov 92 build date. It is a VR6, but with a distributor. My last repair was an ignition coil replacement, however my mechanic replaced the ignition coil with one from a MK3 4 cylinder engine. Has anybody heard of this before. I read on the Corrado Club of Canada forum one user tried this as a cheap fix, but the coil did not last long due to the coil having to fire more often for the VR6 than for a 4 cylinder car. Is this true?
Here's a pic of my car


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (chip_pirate2003)*

coil should be the same part #, i would have to check, but i am 99% sure it is the same part.


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

All Hail NOOB


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (wzach)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wzach* »_All Hail NOOB









no thanks, i might puke (been sick past few days, just overly tired and over worked







) 
must, get, more, rest........ 
sorry i havent been in here a few days.


----------



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (pursuit99)*

new to corrados here







and have question. 
Whats the best oil to use for VR with 140k miles? 
And oem oil filter I'm assuming is best? 
Thanks


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (MrcinaGTI)*

i would go synthetic oil (lots of choices) and a Mann or Mahle filter


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *chip_pirate2003* »_So I'm pretty new here, I have had my Corrado for 6 months and have my share of problems to date. Anyways, my Corrado is a Canadian Corrado, with a Nov 92 build date. It is a VR6, but with a distributor. My last repair was an ignition coil replacement, however my mechanic replaced the ignition coil with one from a MK3 4 cylinder engine. Has anybody heard of this before. I read on the Corrado Club of Canada forum one user tried this as a cheap fix, but the coil did not last long due to the coil having to fire more often for the VR6 than for a 4 cylinder car. Is this true?


Same part number between the two.


----------



## VpfinnersW (Jun 14, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

I have a g60 with a strange rad fan/temp gauge issue.
I've replaced my entire cooling system and related sensors over the past year. some sensors I replaced twice because I thought they were faulty when new.
I have a low temp rad fan switch, which means the low speed fan should come on at approx. 185 F and the high speed fan at approx. 200 F.
Question 1.
I know FOR SURE that the low and high speeds on the rad fan work. However, the low speed comes on (according to the temp gauge in the cluster) at 200 degrees (the hash mark before the 230 degrees on the temp gauge) when it should "technically" be at like 190. so wtf? I'm assuming faulty temp gauge since I already replaced the black temp sensor twice with new ones?
Question 2. When the a/c is on and it's a really hot day, I've seen the temp gauge get up to 230 degrees (sometimes a little higher) before I physically turn the a/c off and the temps go back down to around 200. Is this normal? With the a/c on, is it supposed to continue to get hot until the high speed fan kicks on or something in order to cool the temps back down?
Question 3. I've made the decision to swap the high speed and low speed wires on the rad fan switch. Now, my high speed fan comes on when the low temp is reached on the rad fan switch. will this cause any negative effects having it wired this way?

sorry for so many long questions....I've been trying to figure out this strange issue for a long time and I need answers. TIA


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Check out your fan control module.. Check to see how the wires running to and from it look.


----------



## VpfinnersW (Jun 14, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_Check out your fan control module.. Check to see how the wires running to and from it look.

the g60 has an FCM?


----------



## VpfinnersW (Jun 14, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (VpfinnersW)*

quoting this to the new page so it doesn't get overlooked









_Quote, originally posted by *VpfinnersW* »_I have a g60 with a strange rad fan/temp gauge issue.
I've replaced my entire cooling system and related sensors over the past year. some sensors I replaced twice because I thought they were faulty when new.
I have a low temp rad fan switch, which means the low speed fan should come on at approx. 185 F and the high speed fan at approx. 200 F.
Question 1.
I know FOR SURE that the low and high speeds on the rad fan work. However, the low speed comes on (according to the temp gauge in the cluster) at 200 degrees (the hash mark before the 230 degrees on the temp gauge) when it should "technically" be at like 190. so wtf? I'm assuming faulty temp gauge since I already replaced the black temp sensor twice with new ones?
Question 2. When the a/c is on and it's a really hot day, I've seen the temp gauge get up to 230 degrees (sometimes a little higher) before I physically turn the a/c off and the temps go back down to around 200. Is this normal? With the a/c on, is it supposed to continue to get hot until the high speed fan kicks on or something in order to cool the temps back down?
Question 3. I've made the decision to swap the high speed and low speed wires on the rad fan switch. Now, my high speed fan comes on when the low temp is reached on the rad fan switch. will this cause any negative effects having it wired this way?

sorry for so many long questions....I've been trying to figure out this strange issue for a long time and I need answers. TIA


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (VpfinnersW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VpfinnersW* »_
the g60 has an FCM?









fan control module is a clump of wires right by the coolant expansion tank


----------



## VpfinnersW (Jun 14, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
fan control module is a clump of wires right by the coolant expansion tank

yeah, for a VR6, right








edit:
I would not like to get fixated on the FCM thing. I would rather get answers to my more important questions. My wiring (whether there is an FCM or not) is working just fine. 



_Modified by VpfinnersW at 2:05 PM 9-1-2009_


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Late G60's had them... early ones were just a relay setup.

_Quote, originally posted by *VpfinnersW* »_
yeah, for a VR6, right








edit:
I would not like to get fixated on the FCM thing. I would rather get answers to my more important questions. My wiring (whether there is an FCM or not) is working just fine. 


Discussed answers over IM


----------



## ryanarchy (Nov 27, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ryanarchy* »_
I know the g60 distributor is a hall sender, is that considered a magnetic pickup? the reason i ask is i was thinking of installing a msd 6al ignition system and am trying to figure out if it will work with out a ton of hassle. anybody had experience with these and if so, was it a worthwhile modification? Thanks.



_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Honestly you could get away with just a higher output coil rather than dealing with a whole MSD 6al on it. It would be much more cost effective



What kind of coil would you reccomend?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *ryanarchy* »_
What kind of coil would you reccomend?


Any distributor coil will work... MSD makes high output coils. 034efi makes one too.


----------



## chip_pirate2003 (Dec 1, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Thanks. 
I looked on http://www.vagcat.com and found two different part numbers. For the Corrado VR6, the part number listed is 357905105 and from what I can remember the old one looked like had what looked to be a metal heat sink installedb between the coil itself and the ignition control unit. Here's a link to a pic
http://www.germanautoparts.com.../57/3
from my reciept and vagcat. com a MK3 4 cylinder coil had part number 6n0-905-104 and looks a litte different (no metal heat sink between coil and control unit)
http://www.germanautoparts.com...57/10
your thoughts?



_Modified by chip_pirate2003 at 7:06 PM 9-1-2009_


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (chip_pirate2003)*

brief pause in the thread if I may. Just wanted to say thanks to all you experts (for me...esp sir kyle) for all your help. very much appreciated http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (chip_pirate2003)*


_Quote, originally posted by *chip_pirate2003* »_Thanks. 
I looked on http://www.vagcat.com and found two different part numbers. For the Corrado VR6, the part number listed is 357905105 and from what I can remember the old one looked like had what looked to be a metal heat sink installedb between the coil itself and the ignition control unit. Here's a link to a pic
http://www.germanautoparts.com.../57/3
from my reciept and vagcat. com a MK3 4 cylinder coil had part number 6n0-905-104 and looks a litte different (no metal heat sink between coil and control unit)
http://www.germanautoparts.com...57/10
your thoughts?


There is no heat sink there... I have one I will pull apart in a few and show you. Trust me it is fine. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_brief pause in the thread if I may. Just wanted to say thanks to all you experts (for me...esp sir kyle) for all your help. very much appreciated http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Anytime man.





























Im glad that we are getting your car sorted http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (chip_pirate2003)*


_Quote, originally posted by *chip_pirate2003* »_Thanks. 
I looked on http://www.vagcat.com and found two different part numbers. For the Corrado VR6, the part number listed is 357905105 and from what I can remember the old one looked like had what looked to be a metal heat sink installedb between the coil itself and the ignition control unit. Here's a link to a pic
http://www.germanautoparts.com.../57/3
from my reciept and vagcat. com a MK3 4 cylinder coil had part number 6n0-905-104 and looks a litte different (no metal heat sink between coil and control unit)
http://www.germanautoparts.com...57/10
your thoughts?
_Modified by chip_pirate2003 at 7:06 PM 9-1-2009_

both will work.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (chip_pirate2003)*


_Quote, originally posted by *chip_pirate2003* »_Thanks. 
I looked on http://www.vagcat.com and found two different part numbers. For the Corrado VR6, the part number listed is 357905105 and from what I can remember the old one looked like had what looked to be a metal heat sink installedb between the coil itself and the ignition control unit. Here's a link to a pic
http://www.germanautoparts.com.../57/3


i can get you a Huco brand VR6 unit for $125 NEW, with control module, if you want to save a few bucks over OEM.


_Modified by [email protected] at 9:49 AM 9-2-2009_


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
i can get you a Huco brand VR6 unit for $125 new, if you want to save a few bucks over OEM

how about 43 dollars BRAND NEW.............
http://bimmerparts.com/ShopByV...de=PA







i use them for EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
how about 43 dollars BRAND NEW.............
http://bimmerparts.com/ShopByV...de=PA







i use them for EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!! 

yeah but 43 bucks is for the one without the control module.








I can do that one for $40....


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

ok, 121 with control module. blah.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

i wasn't trying to bust yer [email protected] or nuthin http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
but i'll try to hook my fellow corrado drivers up when I can!








and chip_pirate2003 - if you want etiher of those coils I'll give ya free shipping this time around


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

you ball bustin bastard!!!!!!!!!


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

yup yup thats what im here for


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_yup yup thats what im here for









click on my profile, and look at my "profession"


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

I would get one without the control module and swap the old one over. It is VERY rare that the control module is the issue... unless of course the car is a 2.7t Audi... EFF THOSE THINGS!


----------



## [email protected]rt (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
click on my profile, and look at my "profession"









oh sh!t... that's your _job_! Sorry bout that, didn't intend to encroach on your source of income in these tough economic times










_Modified by [email protected] at 11:54 AM 9-2-2009_


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

i will let it slide ONCE!


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

much appreciated


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

so, who's issues are we missing in here? i was sick for a few days so i was no help, but i am back in the saddle.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_so, who's issues are we missing in here? i was sick for a few days so i was no help, but i am back in the saddle.










The issue of me needing about 2 grand for something I called you about the other day...


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

if you can find me 2500, i can pay you 3000 in 2 weeks. not kidding either


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_if you can find me 2500, i can pay you 3000 in 2 weeks. not kidding either 


i think we are both SOL...


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

werd, but i have a GUARANTEE 9600 for my 2500 investment (well, it is a payoff of something, and i get to go bigger with said something, long story)


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

here's a question I had....
I have the stock g60 water pipe that connects the t-stat to the radiator. Where does that bolt up and route to? right now, I have a BBM front solid motor mount and I route the pipe behind it, but I have not idea where it goes or bolts up. any pics would be appreciated.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

There should be a tab on the motor mount bracket that you can bolt it to.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*

is it the one leading all the way back to the heater core?


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

the tab being the ear that's broken off in the lower right?


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*

this is the pipe:








is it even used in the 16v g60 set up?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

ya you still need it.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

so it bolts up to where that broken ear is?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_so it bolts up to where that broken ear is?


My guess is yes... I cant see it in the bentley diagram though. And ETKA is at home.


----------



## chip_pirate2003 (Dec 1, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_i wasn't trying to bust yer [email protected] or nuthin http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
but i'll try to hook my fellow corrado drivers up when I can!








and chip_pirate2003 - if you want etiher of those coils I'll give ya free shipping this time around 

Thanks for all the help guys! I just wanted some confirmation and confidence that my Corrado isn't going to randomly die on me becasue of the coil....(knock on wood!)
Next question, my C came with Wilwood brakes from the previous owner. I suspect I am going to need to change the pads soon, is it really as easy as removing the cotter pin on the caliper and removing the pads? Do I need a c-clamp to compress the pistons in th calipers? (stupid question I know, that's why I'm in the noob post lol)


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (chip_pirate2003)*

unbolt calipers, take out pads, compress calipers, put pads on, put calipers on. brake pads are a REALLY easy swap. 
these are handy for the front brakes, and can be found at any auto parts store.........








and this is used for the rears...........


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *chip_pirate2003* »_
Thanks for all the help guys! I just wanted some confirmation and confidence that my Corrado isn't going to randomly die on me becasue of the coil....(knock on wood!)
Next question, my C came with Wilwood brakes from the previous owner. I suspect I am going to need to change the pads soon, is it really as easy as removing the cotter pin on the caliper and removing the pads? Do I need a c-clamp to compress the pistons in th calipers? (stupid question I know, that's why I'm in the noob post lol)


Don't listen to noob. He doesn't have wilwoods on a car.
The way that I would go about it is to unbolt the caliper from the carrier (both bolts) then you should be able to pull the cotter pin and pull the old pads out. You will need to compress the pistons. use a little C clamp since there isn't much room to work with them and compress all 4 pistons. Put the new pads and anti rattle shims on. Put the cotter pin in and put the caliper back on the carrier.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Don't listen to noob. He doesn't have wilwoods on a car.

wow, so there's a cotter pin, add that to my simple instructions and mine are complete. 
kill yerself kyle.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
wow, so there's a cotter pin, add that to my simple instructions and mine are complete. 
kill yerself kyle.










You cant use yer gay ass tool to compress it either.
Not much room to deal with those pistons.... Oh and the whole caliper has to come off to do it.
Shut yer face noob I will skull **** you.


----------



## sal16v (Mar 15, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

STOP FIGHTING BOYS, AND you both forgot to say leave the inner brake pad in the caliper so when depressing the piston with a small C-Clamp you press all 4 pistons at the same time(press slow) otherwise you will push one and others will come outward and you take a chance of messing up the seals!
ME FTMFW... Noobs


_Modified by sal16v at 12:58 PM 9-3-2009_


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *sal16v* »_STOP FIGHTING BOYS, AND you both forgot to say leave the inner brake pad in the caliper so when depressing the piston with a small C-Clamp you press all 4 pistons at the same time(press slow) otherwise you will push one and others will come outward and you take a chance of messing up the seals!
ME FTMFW... Noobs


Damn i knew I forgot something


----------



## sal16v (Mar 15, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (sal16v)*

last set of wilwoods i worked on were on a 911, and yes, i used that tool. so poopy on you.


----------



## kjperry (Sep 22, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

Does anybody know how to remove the door window seals without bending them? When I repainted my car they got bent when I removed them and now they don't seal. I'm getting a set from a parts car and I don't want to screw them up when I remove them.
Thanks.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (kjperry)*

it is tough, you have to be VERY careful. i have used a little window trim tool to pry them up, it looks like a plastic wedge.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (kjperry)*

good question


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*

they are plastic.............


----------



## kjperry (Sep 22, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_they are plastic.............









Of those which works best? Do I want to go from the outside or inside?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (kjperry)*

i use the ones on each end depending upon difficulty. 
and basically, you want to go from the center of the trim, if it is easier to reach from in or out you decide.


----------



## kjperry (Sep 22, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

Thanks Mike, wish me luck!


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (kjperry)*

back to my existing BS water pipe prob...thanks to kyle, I was able to see where it bolts up. I got the right tstat cover.....put it on, put the hose on...then the weird water pipe...and it still doesn't really line up perfectly with the motor mount housing (I guess) it's supposed to bolt up to. I'm thinking the solid BBM front mount maybe causing the issue. This crap shouldn't be this difficult


----------



## itskmill06 (Dec 23, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

so, driving to school, I heard a little noise, then it felt like not all of my brakes were working. And when i would slow down, i'd have to stand on it more, and hear some bad metal to metal grinding. My front right rotor looks/sounds like it's the most affected, what happened? Pad fall off? do i need to change just the pads... probably rotors too?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (itskmill06)*

tough to say, but i would buy all pads and replace at the very least.


----------



## dworkz (Nov 17, 2007)

mike do u still have a stock vr grill sitting around?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (dworkz)*

i think i might actually. will have to look for it, cause i have stuff everywhere.


----------



## dworkz (Nov 17, 2007)

I NEEEED THIS ASAP exclamation mark exclamation mark exclamation mark


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (dworkz)*

i will look for it this weekend.


----------



## dworkz (Nov 17, 2007)

gracias


----------



## itskmill06 (Dec 23, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_tough to say, but i would buy all pads and replace at the very least. 


turns out, the end of my axle sheared off. sweet?


----------



## mustloveclutch (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (TheBurninator)*

-bilstein does make springs, (they were mentioned to me by a friend) but they only come as a package with the strut assembly, i discovered. My struts are not bad- i jacked it up and hauled on em, shook em around, every test you can think of; struts are good. car doesnt bounce all over, just wants to go airborne out of potholes. I believe the prob is someone got lazy/stupid & decided that if lowering springs were good, a size too small of lowering springs was better. theres just not enough spring there to support my struts. car has chewed thru bump-stops, and im bottoming out left and right (front rides about an inch from pavement). need to find decent set of front springs (all i can afford, based on prices ive seen), even if their used, to keep from shattering everything in the front end. ill need sturts eventually, but im positive springs are main prob. i can hear my oil pan smack pavement. it hurts me to think about. 
-crackpipe turned out to be only good part. other 2 were cheap knockoff's that didnt fit (i had new gaskets, and i make liberal use of lube, heh) replaced all with fresh vw stock, metal crackpipe fits like a dream. 
-no nude pic requests, so far...


----------



## mustloveclutch (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*

there are some ghetto-thermo housing parts out there *cough*germanautoparts.com*cough*. tip- if they dont fit like puzzle pieces, you got ghetto knock-off's. i did it last month. metal crackpipe was good, though.


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (chip_pirate2003)*

I think I know the answer but I will ask anyway. 91 corrado won't turn over. Put key in seat belts activate. Next position fuel pump primes. Next position dash lights turn off but nothing not even a click. But if I keep trying it will start every fourth try. Batt voltage is alright and a new starter. I'm thinking ignition switch but what do you guys think?


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

*FV-QR*

I want to replace the knock sensor in my 91 Corrado G60 today, but I can't find the torque specs. Anyone know it?


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (JamesS)*

hey kyle and noober.... based on the water pipe bolt up questions we've had....someone posted this in james' thread. 
















it makes sense if you have the missing piece. Here's my problem though....when I line up the pipe to the oval on the housing as it should be....the end of the water pipe that should connect up to the tstat cover....sits like 2 inches under it and not lined up. Is it because I have a 2L water pump or something? I have the correct tstat cover on for a g60...


----------



## AceWaters (Sep 2, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*

Opinions on cutting fenders rather than rolling them? I have heard cutting the rears can jeopardize the body? Thoughts?


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*FV-QR*

you have to make cuts to roll them, so just trim them out Ace... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (JamesS)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JamesS* »_I want to replace the knock sensor in my 91 Corrado G60 today, but I can't find the torque specs. Anyone know it?


20 Nm (15 Ft. Lbs) Found on section 28.10 of the Bently.


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (Non_Affiliated)*

I think I know the answer but I will ask anyway. 91 corrado won't turn over. Put key in seat belts activate. Next position fuel pump primes. Next position dash lights turn off but nothing not even a click. But if I keep trying it will start every fourth try. Batt voltage is alright and a new starter. I'm thinking ignition switch but what do you guys think?


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (nu2dubbing)*

question time...has to do with 16v g60 ISV (irritating as sh_t valve).
Ok...my motor when I got it came with a bracket that was zip tied to the isv. I was told this thing bolts up to the intake manifold. Due to it's shape, the stair stepping (as you can see in the first pic) helps clear the head, etc... it seems like it would make sense and fit in the location I have it and bolt up to the far right bolt on the manifold:








bolted up








you can see the notch where it fits here








The back of the little donut that wraps around the ISV has a notch cut out that sits correctly on that little bracket. (that's what was zip tied). So..here's the problem..I'm trying to figure out if it's sitting correctly or not. Does it sit vertical or horizontal...i've seen both. Also do I use the 2.0L ISV or the G60 one (or does it matter). The g60 one is smaller around the top.
here are some of the issues..
it's close to the TB
I have to push it up through the donut to sit higher, etc...
when it sits horizontal, the Kn filter may have clearance issues with the FPR / TB
I tried it without the bracket...but I'm afraid to let it just hang there because of all the vibrations, etc...
2.0L ISV options on the bracket









2.0L ISV without bracket...








































(maybe some clearance issues of the k&n filter)
G60 ISV on bracket








I have 2 different hoses that go to each one....I've tried everything....but honestly, vertically sitting seems to work better and seems like it mimics this pic:








you can see the filter sticking up in that same spot - but I can't tell if it's coming from the ISV OR from something else on that BBM set up.

_Modified by dpgreek at 5:14 PM 9-7-2009_


_Modified by dpgreek at 5:15 PM 9-7-2009_


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (nu2dubbing)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nu2dubbing* »_I think I know the answer but I will ask anyway. 91 corrado won't turn over. Put key in seat belts activate. Next position fuel pump primes. Next position dash lights turn off but nothing not even a click. But if I keep trying it will start every fourth try. Batt voltage is alright and a new starter. I'm thinking ignition switch but what do you guys think?

ign switch. simple. 

Collin, cut the rear fenders. i did, and am pleased, although i need to cut a weeeee bit more.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (nu2dubbing)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nu2dubbing* »_I think I know the answer but I will ask anyway. 91 corrado won't turn over. Put key in seat belts activate. Next position fuel pump primes. Next position dash lights turn off but nothing not even a click. But if I keep trying it will start every fourth try. Batt voltage is alright and a new starter. I'm thinking ignition switch but what do you guys think?

good call mr. noobercorn.... i concur http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
$30 incl shipping for Febi Bilstein brand if you want one... (let me know if thats a competitive price)


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *AceWaters* »_Opinions on cutting fenders rather than rolling them? I have heard cutting the rears can jeopardize the body? Thoughts?



Personally I would roll them... Cutting you will need to weld them back and seam seal and paint them afterwards.
Dimitri do you by chance have the Pipe flipped the wrong way?


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

I've flipped it all sorts of ways to figure out. I found a dude with a 16v g60 scirocco who looks to maybe using that bracket. He is going to try and send some pics. I dont know....it's bizzare...I just want to get an idea of what people are doing to utilize the ISV and where it would be good to place / mount.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Worst case get a longer hose and hide it somewhere.
and I was refering to the water pipe


----------



## Cor32rado (Jun 5, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

what are peoples feelings about using a 4-->5 lug adapter, vs doing a swap to accept 5 lug wheels?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cor32rado* »_what are peoples feelings about using a 4-->5 lug adapter, vs doing a swap to accept 5 lug wheels?


Personally I like the swap... I did it on my car. Worked well. Other option is to use a kit that keeps the G60 suspension buy uses 5 lug parts. Bildon sells those and so does eurospec


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Speaking of ICV's, i did the reroute kit, but still have a stumble after revving the engine. The rpm's drop too low coming off the rev before getting back to idle. At this point im convinced theres a vac leak, if I go under the hood and rev it manually, there's a slight, almost inaudible "whistle" coming from somewhere around the throttle body.
I know i need to replace my vac lines, but do you think Im on the right track? I really dont want to buy a new ICV, even at my wholesale price... they're a little spendy!
All sensors have been replaced, grounds are good, new ground strap on coil, full tune-up done.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

here's the water pipe update:
I have a VR radiator which is shorter than the G60. I had to use that to make it work with the rallye FMIC and ubend. 
When I put the g60 lower rad hose on the radiator and stick it in the right spot...it bends around and for the most part, clears the starter to hook into the metal pipe. i think my metal pipe was bent, that's why it's not lining up to the housing right.
So, I have to find that little piece that james found that sits in the motor mount to be able to bolt up the water pipe. Once I do that, then I can either cut my lower hose to try and fit or find something else that has 2 90 deg bends to work to clear the starter. I don't know - because the VR radiator sits over to the left more and there is interference


----------



## Cor32rado (Jun 5, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Other option is to use a kit that keeps the G60 suspension buy uses 5 lug parts. Bildon sells those and so does eurospec

I looked on both of their sites but could not find anything pertaining to 4 to 5 lug swaps? am i just not looking in the right place?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Speaking of ICV's, i did the reroute kit, but still have a stumble after revving the engine. The rpm's drop too low coming off the rev before getting back to idle. At this point im convinced theres a vac leak, if I go under the hood and rev it manually, there's a slight, almost inaudible "whistle" coming from somewhere around the throttle body.
I know i need to replace my vac lines, but do you think Im on the right track? I really dont want to buy a new ICV, even at my wholesale price... they're a little spendy!
All sensors have been replaced, grounds are good, new ground strap on coil, full tune-up done.


Vac leak and or digi lag.
Also you may want to check your idle screw. It may be set too low in the first place and the ISV is having to do too much work to get it to idle


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Vac leak and or digi lag.
Also you may want to check your idle screw. It may be set too low in the first place and the ISV is having to do too much work to get it to idle

OK you made me think of something: vac leak seems even more likely now, because when i turn the idle screw either way, no change in idle occurs. And there's the "whistle".


----------



## Cor32rado (Jun 5, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Personally I like the swap... I did it on my car. Worked well. Other option is to use a kit that keeps the G60 suspension buy uses 5 lug parts. Bildon sells those and so does eurospec

Has anyone tried these: 
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volks...S1046/
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volks...S1049/
Are these worth the combined $360?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
OK you made me think of something: vac leak seems even more likely now, because when i turn the idle screw either way, no change in idle occurs. And there's the "whistle".


Replace all of them. It is a bit tedious but well worth it. Remember the line to the ECU needs to be exactly 1meter in length and a certain diameter. IIRC 3mm or 5mm

_Quote, originally posted by *Cor32rado* »_
Has anyone tried these: 
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volks...S1046/
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volks...S1049/
Are these worth the combined $360?


Should work fine. Make sure you get the correct brake rotor needed from ECS for the fronts


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Replace all of them. It is a bit tedious but well worth it. Remember the line to the ECU needs to be exactly 1meter in length and a certain diameter. IIRC 3mm or 5mm

sounds like something i'll do once the weather cools off... sh!t i don't even want to be in the garage for 5 minutes let alone half the day!
thanks for the advice


----------



## AceWaters (Sep 2, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

Thank you Mike, Kyle and Zach. I will be getting nasty with the cut off wheel this weekend!








Look forward to seeing you guys!


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (AceWaters)*

bare with me experts...as I have a few questions / situations.......thanks ahead of time...

based on my ISV situation.....I got some pics today from a rocco 16v g60 dude...and it gave a little insight as to how the ISV bolts up on the manifold next to the intake runner. Its still not sitting great...and I think the vertical way maybe tough to pull off. So I found two bolt holes on the side of the engine, bent the ISV bracket and think it may be able to sit like this. Any bad thoughts on this? or will this inhibit anything?
























my other problem I kind of solved with the help of dogger. I was able to bolt up the lower g60 water pipe to the front mount bracket. It lined up with the tstat and I got the hoses/clamps on. BUT, I have a VR radiator in my rado to be able to use with the rallye fmic. With that said, that radiator is shorter....so right now, I'm having some lower rad hose clearance issues with the starter. I cut about .5 inch off where it connects to the radiator to help...but I think it's not going to work. thoughts?








here it is with the hose rotated down a touch...








LAST question of the day. I'm trying to connect my accelarator cable to the pedal. I'm missing the grommet it goes into for sure....but am I missing anything else?

























_Modified by dpgreek at 10:05 PM 9-8-2009_


_Modified by dpgreek at 10:06 PM 9-8-2009_


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

If you have the clearance to run it like that Dimitri then I say do it!
I think the hose you have is different than the factory one. It is close but the factory one doesnt have such a large radius on the bend. It is a much tighter bend.
For the throttle pedal you just need the grommit and I would look up the grommit/washer/clip for an automatic car or a mk1. I keep forgetting to snap a pic of that from my mk1


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
For the throttle pedal you just need the grommit and I would look up the grommit/washer/clip for an automatic car or a mk1. I keep forgetting to snap a pic of that from my mk1

191 723 559 (throttle cable bushing/grommet, at pedal), about $3.00


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]utosport* »_
191 723 559 (throttle cable bushing/grommet, at pedal), about $3.00


Jared... see if you can find the clip and washer for an automatic car and post those part numbers


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Jared... see if you can find the clip and washer for an automatic car and post those part numbers

all i show from our supplier is the grommet. i cant tell from the pic i "borrowed" of the throttle cable if the clip and washer come on the cable?








oh and heres the bushing:










_Modified by [email protected] at 1:00 PM 9-9-2009_


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
all i show from our supplier is the grommet. i cant tell from the pic i "borrowed" of the throttle cable if the clip and washer come on the cable?


I will check ETKA for it. It is only on automatic VR6's I believe... you might be able to find it for any Mk1 Cabby though


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Thats the wrong cable in the pic I sent then... but the one I show for the VR6 basically looks the same. I cant locate any components other than the cable and bushing from our supplier (for the VR6 or Mk1). Sorry doods...
Unfortunately I dont have ETKA!!










_Modified by [email protected] at 1:08 PM 9-9-2009_


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Thats the wrong cable in the pic I sent then... but the one I show for the VR6 basically looks the same. I cant locate any components other than the cable and bushing from our supplier. 
Unfortunately I dont have ETKA!!










IM sent...


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

I have the right cable, just need that grommet I guess. Kyle, ETKA makes mention of some throttle control element? is that for another model or something? or for automatic? I guess with that grommet, I have everything I need...and then the pedal will adjust when I adjest the cable


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_I have the right cable, just need that grommet I guess. Kyle, ETKA makes mention of some throttle control element? is that for another model or something? or for automatic? I guess with that grommet, I have everything I need...and then the pedal will adjust when I adjest the cable


I will look in etka now to see what it is talking about. It may be referring to cruise control


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Hmmmm I believe the Grommet for connecting the throttle cable that is being spoken of is alos found on Auto G60's. Kind of a white/opaque looking bushing and a funky spring clip that is a PITA to get off/on. The only throttle element I would think on a most MK2's would be for the tranny kick down.
Cause my Auto throttle ha s ana electrical connector that fits to the cable in the engine bay.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Non_Affiliated)*



Non_Affiliated said:


> Hmmmm I believe the Grommet for connecting the throttle cable that is being spoken of is alos found on Auto G60's. Kind of a white/opaque looking bushing and a funky spring clip that is a PITA to get off/on.QUOTE]
> yeah - that same bushing fits VWs from like 85 up to 97! And IIRC from my car, I think the spring clip is just a generic part, nothing special


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Guess it doesn't list it for later VW's but MK1's do have a clip to retain the throttle cable on the automatics.
PN for the clip is 171 721 563
That will keep the cable from popping out and IMO is a must have part


----------



## Boostedcorrados (Dec 2, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Cor32rado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Personally I like the swap... I did it on my car. Worked well. Other option is to use a kit that keeps the G60 suspension buy uses 5 lug parts. Bildon sells those and so does eurospec










_Quote, originally posted by *Cor32rado* »_
Has anyone tried these: 
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volks...S1046/
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volks...S1049/
Are these worth the combined $360?

Why do that when plus suspension is cheaper 99% of the time? You still need rotors for that stuff and if you don't have a press then have to pay to have it done.


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (Boostedcorrados)*

thanks noob one more question on this ignition switch thing i heard that corrado's with automatic trans have a starter relay is this true and doeas anyone know wich one it is


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (nu2dubbing)*

relay 132 (IIRC) above the relay/fuse block. called "starter interlock relay"


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_relay 132 (IIRC) above the relay/fuse block. called "starter interlock relay" 

Which I beleive is the relay to pop the solinoid in the shifter to allow it out of park.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Non_Affiliated)*

yepper, also called the starter interlock relay, since it wont let you start the car in reverse, or "D"








FYI, it is linked into the central locking as well.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

anyone have a lead on a g60 a/c compressor? My attempt to build a hybrid out of other similar compressors has failed, its hot, and I need a/c. I wont pay $700 - $900 for a vw one either, absolutely crazy. Mines shot, cant be rebuilt


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

well the shifter can move with the car off and no key in and the central locking works fine so im going to go with ignition switch. thanks for the help


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_anyone have a lead on a g60 a/c compressor? My attempt to build a hybrid out of other similar compressors has failed, its hot, and I need a/c. I wont pay $700 - $900 for a vw one either, absolutely crazy. Mines shot, cant be rebuilt


Find a used one and rebuild it. Might be your only option at this point.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Find a used one and rebuild it. Might be your only option at this point.

yup im on it. Got one for $75 on the way, seller said its in working order. I'll send it off for a rebuild cuz I dont EVER want to have to take that thing out of there again!!!
Since the charger is out anyway, it's off to Bahn Brenner today for a rebuild!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
yup im on it. Got one for $75 on the way, seller said its in working order. I'll send it off for a rebuild cuz I dont EVER want to have to take that thing out of there again!!!
Since the charger is out anyway, it's off to Bahn Brenner today for a rebuild!


Replace the AC drier when you put it all back together too.
Good call on the rebuild. You bypass and driving it around or are you parking it until that is done?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

oh yeah, new drier and exp. valve are already on-hand. 
She's parked anyway unfortunately... its just too hot here to go around w/o air cond.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Ah so you don't get to feel a NA g60 lol


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_Ah so you don't get to feel a NA g60 lol

i can only imagine the feel of such pure, n/a G60 power...


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

it has the thrust of a 111 yr old man in his FLESH LIGHT.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


----------



## dworkz (Nov 17, 2007)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_i will look for it this weekend. 

any luck mike?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (dworkz)*

looked briefly while at my folks house babysitting their dog. 
i found an NA lip, and a B6 A4 grill. i know i have a badged grill there, just gotta dig it up.


----------



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*

Quick question... Whats the hub bore size on 92 VR? Is it 72.1? Thanks


----------



## 2925 (Dec 11, 2007)

sometimes, in the rain, when i make turns sort of sharply, my brake pedal goes all loopy, like, super hard and moves in and out.
i'm guessing abs?


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: (MrcinaGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MrcinaGTI* »_Quick question... Whats the hub bore size on 92 VR? Is it 72.1? Thanks 

for centering rings VW is 57.1mm center bore. 


_Quote, originally posted by *2925* »_sometimes, in the rain, when i make turns sort of sharply, my brake pedal goes all loopy, like, super hard and moves in and out.
i'm guessing abs?


Um, yeah.......do you have an ABS light? thats your first clue, and if yes, probably. if no light then check under your hood and see do you have an abs pump,or a brake booster. the booster is round the abs is not. 



_Modified by wzach at 9:16 PM 9-14-2009_


----------



## dworkz (Nov 17, 2007)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_looked briefly while at my folks house babysitting their dog. 
i found an NA lip, and a B6 A4 grill. i know i have a badged grill there, just gotta dig it up. 








danke


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: (dworkz)*

can someone please tell me what part I need (pic would be great) that fits inside the 16V BBM crank pulley to run my power steering v belt. I was told there's a piece that fits inside the pulley and bolts up. If anyone has one for sale, let me know.
On a side note, I'm really getting tired of BBM. I don't know if anyone else has gone through the hassle of their bad processing department, but I've been victimized like 3 times. Then to top it all off, I ask the guy point blank, do I need the spacer for the water pump pulley to make sure it lines up with the crank pulley. "Naw, you'll be fine. You don't need. It will line up." Guess again.... Then to make things even better, they always charge you some flat rate for shipping and it takes 6 days to get here from Oregon. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## 2925 (Dec 11, 2007)

*Re: (wzach)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wzach* »_
Um, yeah.......do you have an ABS light? thats your first clue, and if yes, probably. if no light then check under your hood and see do you have an abs pump,or a brake booster. the booster is round the abs is not. 
_Modified by wzach at 9:16 PM 9-14-2009_

lol I just meant, was the abs kicking in? I've heard stories that when it does activate it make demonic noises, none were present though.


----------



## Gawd (Nov 3, 2004)

*FV-QR*

Lets put this thread to some use again.
Recently when I go out on the highway the car will buck and sputter and stall and then kick back in very violent and annoying.
Last weekend I went autoxing an hour out of town. Made it there fine. All was fine during the day, except the last run the car had a hiccup I was praying it wouldn't result in previous problems. Luckily it was only the one.
After auto-x went for some food, upon leaving my car wouldn't start. It would crank and crank and crank. Finally after fiddling with everything it started. Back on the highway 15 minutes down the road the dreaded bucking came back. Pulled over and pulled the ECU relay and Fuel Pump Relay to inspect them. Besides Really hot neither smelt burnt or looked bad inside. Once cooled down I was off again. This happened multiple times on the drive home.
It has started happening just when I am almost home from work recently also, never done this before, it is 16km from work so something is heating up.
I have changed the Fuel Pump Relay with a new one and swapped ECU relays a couple times. Those don't seem to be the problem. Ignition switch was recently done and that doesn't seem to be a problem. Changed all coolant sensors earlier this year.
Now I think it is my oxygen sensor. Pulled in the complex yesterday and car was idling low, like 500. After bucking up the last hill abit. Left it running and looked in the bay to figure out why she was acting funny. Unplugged the o2 sensor and nothing changed. Plugged it back in and nothing changed. So does this sound like the o2 could be my culprit?
Sorry for the long read. Thanks in advance.


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

how much fuel in your tank after the auto x?
sounds like coil pack or fuel pump to me......


----------



## Gawd (Nov 3, 2004)

I had half a tank left.
I thought fuel pump possibly too. It seems to run fine in the cooler mornings and act up in the hotter afternoons.
I am not sure if it is coilpack, it isn't really a misfire, more of a complete dying and coming to life again. Sometimes when it is getting really bad it seems to pour fuel in and backfire with a nice big cloud of black.


----------



## VR SEX (Apr 2, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (Gawd)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Gawd* »_Lets put this thread to some use again.
Recently when I go out on the highway the car will buck and sputter and stall and then kick back in very violent and annoying.
Last weekend I went autoxing an hour out of town. Made it there fine. All was fine during the day, except the last run the car had a hiccup I was praying it wouldn't result in previous problems. Luckily it was only the one.
After auto-x went for some food, upon leaving my car wouldn't start. It would crank and crank and crank. Finally after fiddling with everything it started. Back on the highway 15 minutes down the road the dreaded bucking came back. Pulled over and pulled the ECU relay and Fuel Pump Relay to inspect them. Besides Really hot neither smelt burnt or looked bad inside. Once cooled down I was off again. This happened multiple times on the drive home.
It has started happening just when I am almost home from work recently also, never done this before, it is 16km from work so something is heating up.
I have changed the Fuel Pump Relay with a new one and swapped ECU relays a couple times. Those don't seem to be the problem. Ignition switch was recently done and that doesn't seem to be a problem. Changed all coolant sensors earlier this year.
Now I think it is my oxygen sensor. Pulled in the complex yesterday and car was idling low, like 500. After bucking up the last hill abit. Left it running and looked in the bay to figure out why she was acting funny. Unplugged the o2 sensor and nothing changed. Plugged it back in and nothing changed. So does this sound like the o2 could be my culprit?
Sorry for the long read. Thanks in advance.

Dollars to donuts its the pump. My most recent pump gave me almost the same symptoms when it was crapping out.
Go to the auto parts store and get fuel pressure tester, warm the car up, and idle it in your driveway. When it acts up and stalls, leave the car off, install the pressure tester. Let the car cool down and idle it untill it starts to wig-out again. Than watch what the gauge is doing. 








http://www.corrado-club.ca/mods/vr6_fp_test.html


----------



## JIIP (Apr 20, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (VR SEX)*

need a parts list for abs delete please. also places to buy? people selling one?


----------



## Gawd (Nov 3, 2004)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *VR SEX* »_
Dollars to donuts its the pump. My most recent pump gave me almost the same symptoms when it was crapping out.
Go to the auto parts store and get fuel pressure tester, warm the car up, and idle it in your driveway. When it acts up and stalls, leave the car off, install the pressure tester. Let the car cool down and idle it untill it starts to wig-out again. Than watch what the gauge is doing. 








http://www.corrado-club.ca/mods/vr6_fp_test.html



Ok I just got home with it acting up slightly on the last hill, it is almost all uphill from work. So I let it idle in the driveway, nothing was happening. Purred like a kitten. Started poking around and disconnecting sensors and stuff, everything seemed to work. Tapped my ecu and it hiccupped. So i tapped a few more times nothing. Grabbed a small socket wrench and tapped it again and it died. So I am gonna check that my chip is not falling out, maybe put the oem one back in. I just really do not want to buy a fuel pump haha.


----------



## 359Bailey1320 (Jan 27, 2004)

*PC74 Bulbs*









That is a light bulb out of the voltmeter/oil pressure center council gage from a '93 Corrado. I think both of them are burned out.
Does the bulb come out of that black socket part? It is a PC74 bulb correct?


----------



## dworkz (Nov 17, 2007)

Q's about a 96 obd2 gti vr6 compartment harness.
can i delete the airpump without consequence?
what are the yellow and green plugs for, can i delete?








also whats the piece on the left & the clip on the bottom for?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (dworkz)*

http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html
dot, use that /\/\/\


----------



## Gawd (Nov 3, 2004)

*FV-QR*

So to add to my previous posts. Car was running great on saturday. So I decided to go to autox again yesterday. I am a sucker for punishment. Got 1 run in and then she started throwing a hissy fit. Was standing around the car, turned off, key in the on position. When I hear a random rapid clicking. Pop the hood and my injectors are going nuts. Cycled the key a couple times and it stopped. Also the heated oxygen sensor relay clicks rapidly too and the car wont start, until of course it is cold again. She ran fine in the morning and fine later in the evening when the truck and trailer showed up.
Also I have a weird water pump leak. It leaked out just as it wouldn't start when my injectors were clicking. Then I got the car running when it cooled down, filled it with water and did 2 more runs with no leaking. Drove for lunch with no leaking. Had lunch then car wouldnt start and water pump was leaking again. I did it about 3 years or 30000kms ago. Think it is just the oring? Is there an oring? I forget haha.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Dot, you will get a CEL without the air pump. 200 bucks for a chip from C2 that will delete it though.


----------



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

** Hi. Yesterday, my power windows just stopped working out of no where. Checked all the fuses and replaced the blown ones. My windows are back on and working fine. Now, every time I press the button to close the window, my CD player re-starts. (when i open them, it works fine) It goes blank for 3 sec. and it powers back on. What could this be? Thanks for the help in advance


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (MrcinaGTI)*

load reduction relay may have a crossed line with the CD player, or ign switch .


----------



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_load reduction relay may have a crossed line with the CD player, or ign switch . 

What does this exactly mean? lol. How do i check/fix it?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (MrcinaGTI)*

load reduction relay reduces the electrical load on the vehicle by turning off accessories during the "cranking" of the starter. sounds like your car thinks it is getting started, or you just are pinching a wire in the door.


----------



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_load reduction relay reduces the electrical load on the vehicle by turning off accessories during the "cranking" of the starter. sounds like your car thinks it is getting started, or you just are pinching a wire in the door. 

hmm.. that makes sense. I think the car has a lot of electrical issues. I just recently bought it, and previous owner has changed Ignition Switch 2 times, starter, battery, and there are a lot of wires that are unplugged down where the relay/fuse section is. Also, blinkers don't work, wipers cant stop sometimes etc. I love the car, but this electrical stuff is driving me insane.


----------



## 359Bailey1320 (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: PC74 Bulbs (359Bailey1320)*


_Quote, originally posted by *359Bailey1320* »_








That is a light bulb out of the voltmeter/oil pressure center council gage from a '93 Corrado. I think both of them are burned out.
Does the bulb come out of that black socket part? It is a PC74 bulb correct?

To answer my question, bulb/sock will break if you take it apart. 
Osram's website says it's part number 2351MFX6
http://catalog.myosram.com/zb2...nor=5



_Modified by 359Bailey1320 at 8:46 AM 9-23-2009_


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: PC74 Bulbs (359Bailey1320)*

finally got my auxillary pulley to go onto the bbm 16v crank pulley...fits great...It lines up with the p.s. pump...but It seems that my ps pump pulley is a little wobbly...like it might be warped. It's bolted up and tightened up, so there's no play in the actual pump moving. thoughts?
also still having a biatch of a time with my MKIII non-ac water pump pulley. I got the BBM water pump spacer to work with the crank pulley...but it still seems a little off. Almost like I have to machine the spacer a touch. is this normal? no matter which way I turn the pulley, it doesn't exactly line up....1 rib of the belt will be off...


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

*Re: PC74 Bulbs (dpgreek)*

91 g60 automatic I was driving home on the highway and i kept losing my speedometer and the wing kept going up and down


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: PC74 Bulbs (nu2dubbing)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nu2dubbing* »_91 g60 automatic I was driving home on the highway and i kept losing my speedometer and the wing kept going up and down









loose connection on the back of the cluster. take it out, and push that bitch on. also, make sure the vacuum line to the cluster is free from tears or leaks.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *nu2dubbing* »_91 g60 automatic I was driving home on the highway and i kept losing my speedometer and the wing kept going up and down










If what mike suggested doesn't work the VSS sensor could be going bad. Also check the VSS connector


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

What are the relays on the fan shroud on the G60? Can they be deleted if the ac is deleted?


----------



## jettag60 (Nov 2, 2005)

*Re: (turtledub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *turtledub* »_What are the relays on the fan shroud on the G60? Can they be deleted if the ac is deleted?

yes, but it's best to get the wiring from a mk2 (non ac) and use that
that's what i did (ended up having to splice on the different conenct for the fan but it was no big deal
get's rid of all the useless AC crap


----------



## JIIP (Apr 20, 2006)

*Re: (jettag60)*

What can be removed from the main engine harness if the ac and stock fans are being deleted?
Also how hard is it to hook the fuse box back up if you didn't label anything when you unpluged everything? Oh and if I'm pulling the harnesses anyways, should I just do an obd2 swap?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *JIIP* »_What can be removed from the main engine harness if the ac and stock fans are being deleted?
Also how hard is it to hook the fuse box back up if you didn't label anything when you unpluged everything? Oh and if I'm pulling the harnesses anyways, should I just do an obd2 swap?


Not really much to remove from the engine harness for getting rid of the AC. You can remove a few things from the AC harness though.
Fuse block only goes back together one way. All the connectors are keyed to only fit in one place on the back of the fuse block.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Good call on the rebuild. You bypass and driving it around or are you parking it until that is done?


g-lader is on its way back from BBM! yay!


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

wouldn't celebrate just yet....the BBM monster might strike


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*

also wanted to ask my ?s again in case someone knows...
finally got my auxillary ps pulley to go onto the bbm 16v crank pulley...fits great...Thanks Allen! It lines up with the p.s. pump for the V belt...but It seems that my ps pump pulley is a little wobbly...like it might be warped. It doesn't spin in a straight line - so if a vbelt went on there it might be messed up. It's bolted up and tightened up, so there's no play in the actual pump moving. thoughts?
also still having a biatch of a time with my MKIII non-ac water pump pulley. I got the BBM water pump spacer to work with the crank pulley...but it still seems a little off. Almost like I have to machine the spacer a touch. is this normal? no matter which way I turn the pulley, it doesn't exactly line up....1 rib of the belt will be off...


----------



## reborndub (Jun 18, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*

alright experts i got an easy one for ya.
can the glass of the headlight be removed from the housing?
also what the heck is the diff. between e-codes and the u.s. stock headlights? what makes the e's so great? also how hot do you think it gets in there with silverstar(tm)lights in the housing http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

thanks ahead of time! rebornbud


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

glass can be removed from the ecodes easily, its just clips, US lights are sealed to the housings.
The diff is the light patern. It is a much better light output than US lights. US lights are the devil, they suck.
Are you worried about melting something with the bulbs? you should be fine. If you run bulbs like that though relay the headlights first.


----------



## reborndub (Jun 18, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_glass can be removed from the ecodes easily, its just clips, US lights are sealed to the housings.
The diff is the light patern. It is a much better light output than US lights. US lights are the devil, they suck.
Are you worried about melting something with the bulbs? you should be fine. If you run bulbs like that though relay the headlights first.


not to worried about melting, but had a thought of rechroming the inside part of the housing. looks like it has worn dull inside. 
are e's and the u.s. lights both made by hella? mine are hella. 
but its a bone stock original car to my knowleadge. if mine are u.s. then sealed huh http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif looks like im spending more $$ over more winter rehab projects http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif thank you, burn http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by reborndub at 11:28 PM 9-23-2009_


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Well professionals im back again lol. I put my car on the hoist today at work because i thought it had a minor oil pan gasket leak. Upon seeing a slight o/p gasket leak, i also saw what seemed to be a oil cooler leak, possible valve cover leak (I think it was old oil, because the v/c gasket was changed by a shop when my t-chains were done 3 months ago), a possible head leak. My question is, what could be causing all of this stuff to leak, so far im thinking a clogged or bad pcv causing over pressuring in the engine, but im no expert. Any help is appreciated. Thanks


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *reborndub* »_

not to worried about melting, but had a thought of rechroming the inside part of the housing. looks like it has worn dull inside. 
are e's and the u.s. lights both made by hella? mine are hella. 
but its a bone stock original car to my knowleadge. if mine are u.s. then sealed huh http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


dont know if hella made the US ones, im sure they did.
You can tell easily. US headlights have three bulging dots on the lens. EUro's do not
Euro light for reference:


----------



## ahmetthej3rk (Oct 21, 2008)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

i know its not a corrado but u guys know the best/help the most
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4577832


----------



## dworkz (Nov 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html
dot, use that /\/\/\

i couldt find it anywhere in my bookmarks, thanks.

_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_Dot, you will get a CEL without the air pump. 200 bucks for a chip from C2 that will delete it though.

yeah, i will C200 bucks the ride, i got a few parts to go before i do so.
timing chains, rear main seal, clutch, flywheel and cam the vr up while im at it.
but for now i found this in the 2.8l 12v VR6 Engine Forum

_Quote, originally posted by *1badMKII* »_found it! its a 10w 330ohm resistor from an electronics store (not radio shack) but this will only keep the no pump code from coming not the incorrect flow code...i hear that you can write these codes out with a vag com tho...
 
now looking into confiming vag com powers


----------



## vdubCorrado (Nov 8, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
dont know if hella made the US ones, im sure they did.
You can tell easily. US headlights have three bulging dots on the lens. EUro's do not
Euro light for reference:










also you can tell euro from US by the metal clips that hold the lense to the housing located just under the headlight trim... you can see them in that pic...


----------



## JIIP (Apr 20, 2006)

For those with abs removed (including computer and harness) what did you do about the wires that go to the back and that go over to the passenger side? ill take pictures of the ones im talking about when I get home but would like a an answer sooner.


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (Gawd)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Gawd* »_Now I think it is my oxygen sensor. Pulled in the complex yesterday and car was idling low, like 500. After bucking up the last hill abit. Left it running and looked in the bay to figure out why she was acting funny. Unplugged the o2 sensor and nothing changed. Plugged it back in and nothing changed. So does this sound like the o2 could be my culprit?


If nothing changed when you pulled the O2 Sensor plug, I would suggest putting in a new O2 sensor.


----------



## reborndub (Jun 18, 2009)

*Re: (JIIP)*

alright experts another easy one!








stock 90 g60
i got 12.5v @ batt not running
i got 13.4v @ batt and alt. bolt running
cleaned all terminals @ batt and alt. still the same.
should't it be like 14.5 @ batt running??
could that make the car run rich? just seems like it is, but it runs good
alt. is on its way out isnt it? http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
thanks ahead guys http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *reborndub* »_alright experts another easy one!








stock 90 g60
i got 12.5v @ batt not running
i got 13.4v @ batt and alt. bolt running
cleaned all terminals @ batt and alt. still the same.
should't it be like 14.5 @ batt running??
could that make the car run rich? just seems like it is, but it runs good
alt. is on its way out isnt it? http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
thanks ahead guys http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


Looks normal to me. You should not get 14.5 volts. I see 13.9 in my audi max. Same with my Mk1
It will not cause you to run rich. If you are running rich you either have a bad coolant temp sensor, or a bad o2 sensor


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

did everyone's c's start working flawlessly since H2O or is this thread


----------



## ratatat (Nov 28, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (jare[email protected])*

2 questions
90 g60 chargerless if that matters
first question
It seems to idle high like 1200-1300 rpms, maybe its normal but seems high for an idle to me. What is causing this maybe a sensor? ISV? Also it likes to die when revved up and then when you let off the gas even if you take it down easy it still almost craps out. 
second question
I am pretty positive I need a new clutch as mine was resting on the floor after my last time havving it run. I dont really want to dump even more money into the old girl, so my idea was that I have a parts MK3 and was curious if I could transplant the whole tranny all at once to solve that little issue. I know I need to change starters as well with this precedure because I think I remember reading that at some point on here???








Anyhow thank you guys/gals


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *ratatat* »_2 questions
90 g60 chargerless if that matters
first question
It seems to idle high like 1200-1300 rpms, maybe its normal but seems high for an idle to me. 


um yeah it matters, and you need to search for the thread on how to adjust your isv inthe corrado forum, and see if it will fix it while you are awaiting charger replacment, it MIGHT run right.

_Quote, originally posted by *ratatat* »_
I am pretty positive I need a new clutch as mine was resting on the floor after my last time havving it run. *I dont really want to dump even more money into the old girl, so *my idea was that I have a parts MK3 and was curious if I could transplant the whole tranny all at once to solve that little issue. I know I need to change starters as well with this precedure because I think I remember reading that at some point on here???








Anyhow thank you guys/gals










clutch on floor means slave cylinder or master cylinder. Cheack first for leaks.
Mk3 2.0 is not a cable shifted trans like the Corrado, swap is hell. 
and this: "I dont really want to dump even more money into the old girl" means you arent ready to show it the love it needs, they are demanding cars. Gets worse the older they get, so if you cant afford it now store it and rebuild it fully later rather than patch it and keep it running. Or it will die.
Or, sell it and buy another one later.


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_did everyone's c's start working flawlessly since H2O or is this thread



















nope.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (wzach)*

still having a biatch of a time with my MKIII non-ac water pump pulley. I got the BBM water pump spacer to work with the crank pulley...but it still seems a little off. Almost like I have to machine the spacer a touch. is this normal? no matter which way I turn the pulley, it doesn't exactly line up....1 rib of the belt will be off...


----------



## JIIP (Apr 20, 2006)

*Re: (JIIP)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JIIP* »_For those with abs removed (including computer and harness) what did you do about the wires that go to the back and that go over to the passenger side? ill take pictures of the ones im talking about when I get home but would like a an answer sooner.

anyone?


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: (JIIP) & (dpgreek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JIIP* »_
anyone?

sorry man, i stil run the ABS....cause it still works. haha. I would wait a little bit, McNair is on hiatus. Someone else should chime in though. 

_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_still having a biatch of a time with my MKIII non-ac water pump pulley. I got the BBM water pump spacer to work with the crank pulley...but it still seems a little off. Almost like I have to machine the spacer a touch. is this normal? no matter which way I turn the pulley, it doesn't exactly line up....1 rib of the belt will be off...

Dude, Congrats on Corrado of the week!!!!! But that still doesnt make up fo the lack of knowledge I have on 16v g60 swaps. Im learning by watching you though. 
Im hoping that someone else chimes in for you as well. 
Good luck.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (wzach)*

I got one: since my airbox is out right now (waiting to re-install compressor and charger) Im heavily considering removal of the charcoal canister. We dont have emissions testing here, I'm willing to bet its a contributing factor in my "yet to be located" vacuum leak, and just seems unecessary, period.
I assume I can do this without eliminating the ICV, right?
Does the diagram here tell me all I need to know > http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...9&cmd


----------



## ratatat (Nov 28, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (wzach)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wzach* »_
um yeah it matters, and you need to search for the thread on how to adjust your isv inthe corrado forum, and see if it will fix it while you are awaiting charger replacment, it MIGHT run right.

clutch on floor means slave cylinder or master cylinder. Cheack first for leaks.
Mk3 2.0 is not a cable shifted trans like the Corrado, swap is hell. 
and this: "I dont really want to dump even more money into the old girl" means you arent ready to show it the love it needs, they are demanding cars. Gets worse the older they get, so if you cant afford it now store it and rebuild it fully later rather than patch it and keep it running. Or it will die.
Or, sell it and buy another one later. 


I finally see how they eat your money. But am not disappointed I saved it from behind a barn where it would have continued to sit.
As for the ISV, I found that info and have it saved so I can do that tomorrow








I guess a new master/slave cylinder is better then a clutch right? Though in some ways I was kinda looking forward to that big task honestly, learn yet another thing to do on a car. 
yeah maybe in some ways I am patching it up I guess. I also dont plan on getting a G60 put in anytime soon. because of money yes, but also because I really dont need that extra fast.

Thanks wzach for the info http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (ratatat)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wzach* »_Dude, Congrats on Corrado of the week!!!!! But that still doesnt make up fo the lack of knowledge I have on 16v g60 swaps. Im learning by watching you though. 
Im hoping that someone else chimes in for you as well. 
Good luck.

Thanks bro. I'm learning as I go to and from guys on threads like this. 
With that said, does anyone have any insight on this damn water pump pulley situation?


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (ratatat)*

The bentley will show the bleeding proceedure for the Hydrolic clutch system. 
It take a little time, but your not too bad off if thats what is amiss. 
Hope you can find the leak and please check for air by having someone push the clutch in while you listen to see if its coming from the firewall (master) or above the trans (slave). 
And someone else has done a 16v G60 help Dpgreek out man!!!!


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (wzach)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wzach* »_
And someone else has done a 16v G60 help Dpgreek out man!!!!










sounds like one for kyle or noob to answer...


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

kyle gave a little advice, but it's still a fuzzy area (and not like the ones we see at a good strip club) http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Wayne92SLC (Mar 1, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

I'm at a loss on this one and I think a few others are as well...
The infamous "backing out of a parking lot front end clunk". WTF?
I get it when I back out of (or into) parking spots and I also get it during aggressive cornering like during an auto-x (left turns only)
Here's what I've done in an effort to solve this problem.
New strut bearings just last night last night (mounts were new a couple months ago when I installed coilovers)
Swaybar links
Re-torqued front and rear control arm bolts to spec
Re-torqued k-frame bolts to spec
New wheel bearings installed with Lotite 603 retaining compound
When I installed coilovers few months ago, I also installed new tie rod ends, ball joints, strut mounts, strut bearings, and sway bar links. 
I have Drive Shaft Shop stage 2 axles and the outer CV's on them were replaced a couple years ago.
The only thing on the car that hasn't been touched is the PS rack and the inner tie rod ends. 
Should I disconnect the swaybar (28mm Neuspeed) and see if the problem goes away? Look at outer CV's again? Inner tie rods?
I'm at the point where I just start throwing money at the problem.
Let me know if have any suggestions.
Thanks,
-Wayne


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

If you have replaced all those wear items well.....
Check the car when up on a lift for cracks in the kframe. Could be separation happening. 
Also check your front subframe bolts, these things as well as motor mounts will cause sounds that make your skin crawl....
Good luck on finding the issue.


----------



## Wayne92SLC (Mar 1, 2001)

*Re: (wzach)*

Thanks. 
I'll check the front subframe tonight as well as the motor mounts. (the tranny mount is a VF unit that was new a couple years ago and the others are old skool Turn2 units with upgraded class 12.9 hardware)
I have an auto-x this Sunday so it would be nice to figure this out soon. 
-Wayne


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Also did you replace the sub frame bolts or just put old ones back in? They are stretch bolts. I would try running a tap through the holes to clean up the threads and use new bolts on the subframe to see if that gets rid of the issue.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

kyle ... can you take a look at my last post on the previous page regarding charcoal canister removal?


----------



## Wayne92SLC (Mar 1, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_Also did you replace the sub frame bolts or just put old ones back in? They are stretch bolts. I would try running a tap through the holes to clean up the threads and use new bolts on the subframe to see if that gets rid of the issue.

Yup. Chased threads and used new bolts. Not my first rodeo--been wrenching on this rig for about 13 years.







That's why this is so puzzling. 
I'll check the front subframe tonight. I replaced the 4 big bolts with class 12.9 bolts several years ago. Maybe something has loosened up over the years up there.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_
Thanks bro. I'm learning as I go to and from guys on threads like this. 
With that said, does anyone have any insight on this damn water pump pulley situation?


I have been running this through my head for weeks now trying to figure this out. One of the possibilities is differences between water pumps. If I ever get a free moment between work and moving right now I will call BBM about this and see if John has anything to say. That is IF I can get ahold of him.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Wayne92SLC* »_
Yup. Chased threads and used new bolts. Not my first rodeo--been wrenching on this rig for about 13 years.







That's why this is so puzzling. 
I'll check the front subframe tonight. I replaced the 4 big bolts with class 12.9 bolts several years ago. Maybe something has loosened up over the years up there.


I figured. You are a very OCD person with this stuff but it was worth a try. I have had the welds break on the tranny mount cup before.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_I got one: since my airbox is out right now (waiting to re-install compressor and charger) Im heavily considering removal of the charcoal canister. We dont have emissions testing here, I'm willing to bet its a contributing factor in my "yet to be located" vacuum leak, and just seems unecessary, period.
I assume I can do this without eliminating the ICV, right?
Does the diagram here tell me all I need to know > http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...9&cmd


It lets you get rid of ALOT of BS in the bay. I am for it if you don't have visual inspections to pass. The canisters usually stop working after about 10 or 15 years anyways. One thing that I would suggest that is different from that thread is to follow that vent line all the way back to the tank and put the breather filter closer to the tank. If it is in the bay there is a chance of some fumes coming through the firewall. That and I prefer to see clean bays.


----------



## Wayne92SLC (Mar 1, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
I figured. You are a very OCD person with this stuff but it was worth a try. I have had the welds break on the tranny mount cup before.

I'll check out the subframes for chipped paint/cracks. In the mean time, I'll be in the bathroom washing my hands repeatedly.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Wayne92SLC* »_
I'll check out the subframes for chipped paint/cracks. In the mean time, I'll be in the bathroom washing my hands repeatedly.










HAHA, do you close the door 4 times before leaving a room too?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
It lets you get rid of ALOT of BS in the bay. I am for it if you don't have visual inspections to pass. The canisters usually stop working after about 10 or 15 years anyways. One thing that I would suggest that is different from that thread is to follow that vent line all the way back to the tank and put the breather filter closer to the tank. If it is in the bay there is a chance of some fumes coming through the firewall. That and I prefer to see clean bays.

well it looks like its on for this weekend then... do you know where I can access that vent line in the back of the car?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
well it looks like its on for this weekend then... do you know where I can access that vent line in the back of the car?


It will be near the filler neck. Follow the line all the way to the back of the car. It runs with the fuel lines for most of it.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*















to you sir!


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

kyle is the shiz....


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_














to you sir!


Noooo LOL im still slightly drunk from last night... No more beer for me for a few days


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

I'll ask someone at BBM as well if I can get em on the horn today.
Kyle, you may need to change your name to the Beerinator


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_I'll ask someone at BBM as well if I can get em on the horn today.
Kyle, you may need to change your name to the Beerinator

















Let me know if you do get ahold of them and what they say.
I almost played hooky from work today to go to octoberfest at noon and start drinking again. Decided against it since my boss took the day off to go.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Noooo LOL im still slightly drunk from last night... No more beer for me for a few days

hey, you cant get a hangover if youdont stop drinking


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
hey, you cant get a hangover if you dont stop drinking










I have played that game one too many times. I also enjoy day drinking, and drinking on an empty stomach.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
I have played that game one too many times. I also enjoy day drinking, and drinking on an empty stomach.










[email protected] you're like a triathlete! hey one other question: is it necessary or is there any point to putting a breather filter on the vent line from the tank (as shown in that diagram)?


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_Decided against it since my boss took the day off to go.

You should have gone anyway, get hammered, go up to boss man and tell him you're doing field research.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
[email protected] you're like a triathlete! hey one other question: is it necessary or is there any point to putting a breather filter on the vent line from the tank (as shown in that diagram)?


HAHA I drink like real man. 
Yeah it is to keep any dirt out of the fuel tank. it is a MUST.

_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_
You should have gone anyway, get hammered, go up to boss man and tell him you're doing field research.


Field research for doing database server tech support? LOL


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

beer ---> social networking ---> computer ----> database server tech support ---> internet porn --->beer
it's a vicious circle kyle


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_beer ---> social networking ---> computer ----> database server tech support ---> internet porn --->beer
it's a vicious circle kyle


OOOH I get porn in this deal? haha


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Yeah it is to keep any dirt out of the fuel tank. it is a MUST.


one more question then... in order to save the headache of finding a breather filter and an adaptor to fit that small line, is dirt really going to be able to "crawl" up that line & to the tank if i mount it with the opening facing down?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Its very possible. I know its a bit of a pain to get the right sized breather/adapter but it could mean the difference in killing fuel pumps and not.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_Its very possible. I know its a bit of a pain to get the right sized breather/adapter but it could mean the difference in killing fuel pumps and not.

hmmmm... sounds like a trip over to the RC car / hobby store after work... they have little k&n style filters that may be spot-on for this


----------



## ratatat (Nov 28, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

How tight to I tighten the ISV with the allen?
that part was kinda unclear to me in the thread I read. until I cant hear any air at all coming out?

Thanks again


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Hello Experts, I plan on installing a turbo kit in my corrado in the future and was wodering if there are any specific valves made for turbos? I ask this because, I've just recently found a good deal on some eurospecsport valves and was wondering how they will work with a turbo or if they are not a good match. Their part numbers are: 021 109 611 FP(Exhaust) and 021 109 601 LP(Intake). Any help is appreciated! Thanks in advance.


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *ratatat* »_How tight to I tighten the ISV with the allen?
that part was kinda unclear to me in the thread I read. until I cant hear any air at all coming out?

Thanks again



From what i understand, adjust, reconnect, test by letting idle, hitting throttle, and seeing where it comes to rest. Keep adjusting until you are comfortable with it. 

_Quote, originally posted by *Das.Rado* »_Hello Experts, I plan on installing a turbo kit in my corrado in the future and was wodering if there are any specific valves made for turbos? I ask this because, I've just recently found a good deal on some eurospecsport valves and was wondering how they will work with a turbo or if they are not a good match. Their part numbers are: 021 109 611 FP(Exhaust) and 021 109 601 LP(Intake). Any help is appreciated! Thanks in advance.


Some other motors use sodium filled valves, not really heard of for vr's. 
Those valves just happen to be Eurospec Sport ones that ar swirl polished. If you look at their adds, you can also see bigger valves. 
Stock valves work fine for a vrt. 
Wise man once said, when you can name every part in a turbo system and know what it does, then you are ready for one. Till then learn as much as possible.


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (wzach)*

thanks zach for the help however if you dont mind i have another couple questions for you. Are you saying these valves are sodium filled which is weired or stating that in general stay away from sodium valves? Also are stock valves better than these in a turbo setup or are you saying stock are good enough? Thank you very much.


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Dude slow down, read my post and their adds 1 more time you will notice the different sized valves in their desriptions. Those part numbers you gave are for replacement valves that are stock size but swirl polished.
1) The forced induction forum is where the VRT searches should be done. 

_Quote, originally posted by *Das.Rado* »_ *Are these valves are sodium filled which is weired or stating that in general stay away from sodium valves?*

2)No such thing as sodium filled VR6 Valves that I have heard of. I meant that some other motors have them. The VR was engineered to be a diesel, but was changed later in design to be a gasoilne motor. This is the reason they like boost, they were intended for higher compressions. 

_Quote, originally posted by *Das.Rado* »_ are stock valves better than these in a turbo setup or are you saying stock are good enough? 


3) I do not see a difference between them and stock, so no not better, not worse. Not real familiar with the benefits of a swirl polish and what possibleperformance gains you would net from them. Stock rebuilt is more than good enough. If you are worried about this, buy a performance built cylinder head from somewhere maybe even eurospec unless you want to rebuild a cylinder head. Its a pain to do, 








Please do a search for VRT in the Forced Induction forum for more VR6 turbo related questions.
When you have trouble with your Corrado or the obd2 swap for your vrt, then refer here to the corrado forum.


----------



## AceWaters (Sep 2, 2008)

*Help*

Corrado craped out while driving. Pretty sure its the fuel pump. Is the pump relay the smaller gray one that says 18 on it? The pump it self has been sounding pretty weird lately.. maybe the whole unit is dead?? How could i jump the relay to see if the pump will come on?


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *AceWaters* »_Corrado craped out while driving. Pretty sure its the fuel pump. Is the pump relay the smaller gray one that says 18 on it? The pump it self has been sounding pretty weird lately.. maybe the whole unit is dead?? How could i jump the relay to see if the pump will come on?


fuel pup relay is #12, bottom right on fuse panel. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Check fuse 18 OK
Battery OK
Switch ignition on, fuel pump must e audiable for 1 second.
If no, remove fuel pump relay, jump pin #4 of fuel pump relay socket, apply power, if pump turns on, replace relay.
If no, bad pump. 
Let me know if this works.


----------



## Wayne92SLC (Mar 1, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (Wayne92SLC)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Wayne92SLC* »_
I'll check out the subframes for chipped paint/cracks. In the mean time, I'll be in the bathroom washing my hands repeatedly.










No go. Everything looked o.k. under there. To be sure, I pulled the front subframe bolts, chased the threads and installed new class 12.9 bolts. I'm thinking that I may replace the ball joints and tie rod ends next (again) as they aren't TOO expensive. How bout inner tie rods? Are they a pain to do? They are one of the original parts left on the car. Also, how do you go about adjusting backlash in the steering rack?


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Wayne92SLC)*

Inner rods are fun, not too hard, but still one of those PITA items.
After re reading your post, it may be part of the issue. 
When you had it up in the air, was there play in either tie rod?


----------



## Wayne92SLC (Mar 1, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (wzach)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wzach* »_Inner rods are fun, not too hard, but still one of those PITA items.
After re reading your post, it may be part of the issue. 
When you had it up in the air, was there play in either tie rod?

Nope--no play anywhere with me yanking on stuff. That's why this is so tough to diagnose.
I think there's a special tool for the inner tie rods. Is it necessary or just convenient?


----------



## AceWaters (Sep 2, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (wzach)*

Thanks for the input willhelm. Tim walked me through some repairs over the phone (lifesaver!) and I was able to hard wire the pump. Car still wouldn't start for a while, ended up being a damn fuse. Finally got it though! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Wayne92SLC) & (AceWaters)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Wayne92SLC* »_
Nope--no play anywhere with me yanking on stuff. That's why this is so tough to diagnose.
I think there's a special tool for the inner tie rods. Is it necessary or just convenient? 

I have yet to do a set of inners personally. Seen people doing them and offered beer support while working, but do not recall any special tools. 
I am actually baffled at your issues.





















haha
Glad to hear you got it sorted Ace http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
And that is why i carry a 4Bar VDO pump, just in case....lol


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
It lets you get rid of ALOT of BS in the bay. I am for it if you don't have visual inspections to pass. The canisters usually stop working after about 10 or 15 years anyways. One thing that I would suggest that is different from that thread is to follow that vent line all the way back to the tank and put the breather filter closer to the tank. If it is in the bay there is a chance of some fumes coming through the firewall. That and I prefer to see clean bays.

here's the filter I used on the end of the fuel tank vent line. Its for r/c cars (sorry for the crap cellphone pic). Part # is 4060, they even sell little replacement filter elements for them. Its about 3/4" diameter and 3/4" long. This one was $6 at a hobby store:


----------



## VpfinnersW (Jun 14, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

I'm getting a strong gasoline-ish, burnt oil smell coming from the engine bay area and coming through the vents in the car when sitting in traffic.
It smells like it's coming from the pcv/heater element. I know the g60 doesn't technically have a pcv valve, so if that heater element is broken, would that cause the overwhelming oil/gas smell?
How do you remove the heater element from the return tube? 
TIA


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
here's the filter I used on the end of the fuel tank vent line. Its for r/c cars (sorry for the crap cellphone pic). Part # is 4060, they even sell little replacement filter elements for them. Its about 3/4" diameter and 3/4" long. This one was $6 at a hobby store:










Werd. Gonna pick up one of those myself now.

_Quote, originally posted by *VpfinnersW* »_I'm getting a strong gasoline-ish, burnt oil smell coming from the engine bay area and coming through the vents in the car when sitting in traffic.
It smells like it's coming from the pcv/heater element. I know the g60 doesn't technically have a pcv valve, so if that heater element is broken, would that cause the overwhelming oil/gas smell?
How do you remove the heater element from the return tube? 
TIA


That shouldn't happen. It gets recirculated back into the intake. You shouldn't smell it from there unless you got rid of the boost return.


----------



## VpfinnersW (Jun 14, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

I'm getting a strong gasoline-ish, burnt oil smell coming from the engine bay area and coming through the vents in the car when sitting in traffic.
It smells like it's coming from the pcv/heater element. I know the g60 doesn't technically have a pcv valve, so if that heater element is broken, would that cause the overwhelming oil/gas smell?
How do you remove the heater element from the return tube?
TIA

_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
That shouldn't happen. It gets recirculated back into the intake. You shouldn't smell it from there unless you got rid of the boost return.

so what/where else could that smell be coming from? I still have a boost return hose.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

charcoal canister could be fubared and causing it. You could have a leak from somewhere that is burning off


----------



## reignofterror (Dec 31, 2008)

*FV-QR*

ok, i give up on searching. what are the best materials to use for a heater core bypass?


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (VpfinnersW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VpfinnersW* »_I'm getting a strong gasoline-ish, burnt oil smell coming from the engine bay area and coming through the vents in the car when sitting in traffic.
It smells like it's coming from the pcv/heater element. I know the g60 doesn't technically have a pcv valve, so if that heater element is broken, would that cause the overwhelming oil/gas smell?
How do you remove the heater element from the return tube? 
TIA

Check fuel lines around the fuel rail, and the line that runs dwon by the intake mani. The crimped hose clamps loose their tension and the lines get brittle over time. It was a TSB for corrados but it's like pulling teeth on a alligator to get a dealership to honer a Saftey bulletin anymore.
I suggest for saftey sake just get some High pressure fuel line and some fuel line hose clamps (Not just regular hose clamps) and repace the soft lines.
That problem has ended quite a few Corrados on here.


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (reignofterror)*


_Quote, originally posted by *reignofterror* »_ok, i give up on searching. what are the best materials to use for a heater core bypass?

Materials?
Say maybe a 3/4" coupler, pull the heater hoses and use the coupler and a couple hose clamps to bypass the heater core. PS make sure to verify hose diameter seeing I am not sure what the actual hose i.d. is.


----------



## reignofterror (Dec 31, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Non_Affiliated)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Non_Affiliated* »_Materials?
Say maybe a 3/4" coupler, pull the heater hoses and use the coupler and a couple hose clamps to bypass the heater core. PS make sure to verify hose diameter seeing I am not sure what the actual hose i.d. is.

by materials i mean metal (i.e. flexible copper piping) or pvc . . i've seen both on different threads here. thanks!


----------



## burton198 (Sep 12, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (reignofterror)*

so something that happend a amonth or so ago but
G60
200k+ miles
Charger+60k after a rebuild

After driving 45 min to work my car "seazed up" it turned it self off. After about 2 hours it started back up and i was able to drive it about 20 miles before having a buddy trailer me home. 
I pulled the plugs and they are black and almost damp. If i take it for a drive ill hear back fires. When i start and rev it ill get greyish whitish smoke. Im thinking maybe massive bypass from the G-ladder and maybe messing with the fuel?When people are behind me they can smell coolant, but then one of my buddies said he smelled oil... so i know i am burning something.
I plan on putting into a project that includes a rebuilt motor and going turbo but itd be nice to figure it out.
TIA
Jared


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *reignofterror* »_
by materials i mean metal (i.e. flexible copper piping) or pvc . . i've seen both on different threads here. thanks!


Take the 2 hoses going to and from the heater core and put them together with a $3.00 fitting at home depo made of copper. Use the existing hose clamps if they arent the OEM types. 


_Modified by wzach at 10:13 PM 10-14-2009_


----------



## dasbeast3.0 (Aug 15, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (wzach)*

Ms. terror, you can use whatever fits and wont melt. i had a plastic piece of sht pipe connector in there. it has not failed for over a year and never leaked. I would however suggest going to autozone or home depot and getting the correct barbed fitting. i'd stay away from copper due to corrosion issues. you can get a zinc plated or brass fitting for the same price.


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (dasbeast3.0)*

Plastic works fine as said above, the OEM heater core has plastic pipe fittings.


----------



## reignofterror (Dec 31, 2008)

*FV-QR*

thanks guys! you're my heroes. ::swoon::


----------



## VpfinnersW (Jun 14, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Non_Affiliated)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Non_Affiliated* »_
Check fuel lines around the fuel rail, and the line that runs dwon by the intake mani. The crimped hose clamps loose their tension and the lines get brittle over time. It was a TSB for corrados but it's like pulling teeth on a alligator to get a dealership to honer a Saftey bulletin anymore.
I suggest for saftey sake just get some High pressure fuel line and some fuel line hose clamps (Not just regular hose clamps) and repace the soft lines.
That problem has ended quite a few Corrados on here.


already replaced the soft fuel lines that connect to the fuel rail and FPR. no fuel smell from there or the fuel rail.
I'll try another sniff test around the PCV/heater element and charcoal canister again and report back. 
it seriously smells more like burnt oil/gas mixture more than pure gas smell


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *burton198* »_so something that happend a amonth or so ago but
G60
200k+ miles
Charger+60k after a rebuild

After driving 45 min to work my car "seazed up" it turned it self off. After about 2 hours it started back up and i was able to drive it about 20 miles before having a buddy trailer me home. 
I pulled the plugs and they are black and almost damp. If i take it for a drive ill hear back fires. When i start and rev it ill get greyish whitish smoke. Im thinking maybe massive bypass from the G-ladder and maybe messing with the fuel?When people are behind me they can smell coolant, but then one of my buddies said he smelled oil... so i know i am burning something.
I plan on putting into a project that includes a rebuilt motor and going turbo but itd be nice to figure it out.
TIA
Jared


Head gasket


_Quote, originally posted by *VpfinnersW* »_
already replaced the soft fuel lines that connect to the fuel rail and FPR. no fuel smell from there or the fuel rail.
I'll try another sniff test around the PCV/heater element and charcoal canister again and report back. 
it seriously smells more like burnt oil/gas mixture more than pure gas smell


I still think you have a leaky gasket somewhere.


----------



## VpfinnersW (Jun 14, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Head gasket

I still think you have a leaky gasket somewhere.


define leaky gasket. valve cover? o-ring around the injectors? need some ideas here


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (VpfinnersW)*

You can always take a can of WD40 and spray around say the intake gasket areas, or places where a vacuum is, if idle changes drastically then most likely you have found a leak.
Reason I suggest WD40 is it isn't as flamamble as intake cleaner. WD40 was reformulated so the propellents and some compnents aren't as flammible is what I was told. It also explaines why it doesn't ignite as well in a 2-stroke motor, I used to use it for starting outboards when they sat for long durations. Better than starter fluid (ether) is very bad for outboard motor cylinder walls.


----------



## burton198 (Sep 12, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Non_Affiliated)*

So if i where the change the head gasket my problem could be fixed. Couldnt it have warped the head?


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (burton198)*

got some wiring questions
1. where does this go to? It's brown and white. I think it goes from the luggage compartment switch to the luggage comp. light....but how the heck does is go onto the light?








2. where do these go? I'm assuming maybe the top rear light? One is a 3 wire (brown, green/? black/yellow). the other is a single pin....green/gray








are my tails wired up right?
rear drivers side tail: 








rear passengers:








rear drivers side reverse light:








rear passenger side reverse light:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *VpfinnersW* »_
define leaky gasket. valve cover? o-ring around the injectors? need some ideas here


Valve cover, your head gasket could be leaking a little bit seeping out the back, probably valve cover though. Could be an oil line to/from the charger that is leaky, could be a leaky pan gasket. Just look around a bit see what is leaking.

_Quote, originally posted by *burton198* »_So if i where the change the head gasket my problem could be fixed. Couldnt it have warped the head?


Very possible


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_got some wiring questions
1. where does this go to? It's brown and white. I think it goes from the luggage compartment switch to the luggage comp. light....but how the heck does is go onto the light?


That is ground. Bolts to the body VIA one of the nuts that hold the tail light in.


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
That is ground. Bolts to the body VIA one of the nuts that hold the tail light in.


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_









In this pic ^ here the ground gets bolted to the body right where that red/grey wire is running in front of. do you see it?







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## reignofterror (Dec 31, 2008)

*FV-QR*

thanks guys! you're my heroes. ::swoon::


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (reignofterror)*

so the only thing missing from the tails (that way I have it wired) is that one ground on passenger side?


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

As far as i can see yes, thats all. any other harnesses laying around?


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: (wzach)*

don't think so...the only two other wires really are the ones up by the spoiler motor that are in the pic above


----------



## nofx1981 (Oct 24, 2006)

*Axle shaft nut*

Hi guys, i'm at my wits end right now with my rado and hoping you guys can help me out. After changing my springs this summer I noticed that on my driver's side the wheel hub and half shaft were loose. So apparently the axle nut had backed off a bit. I thought this might be because I didn't replace the nut when I did my half shaft last summer. I replaced the axle nut, tightened it to the torque specs in my Bentley and things seemed nice and tight again. 
I just re-checked my wheel today because of some squeaking and now the new axle nut has backed out on me So I go to take off the axle nut to apply lock tite and re-torque it, but half way taking off the nut, it doesn't want to turn any more.







as if it has suddenly become cross threaded. Now the nut is stuck between almost off and nowhere close to being tight. Can't tighten it or loosen it, I broke my 1/2" drive breaker bar using a 4 foot cheater pipe trying to take it off the rest of the way... Any suggestions on how to proceed? I'm done for tonight and want to go at it again tomorrow with some sort of plan. Any Ideas? TIA


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *nofx1981* »_Hi guys, i'm at my wits end right now with my rado and hoping you guys can help me out. After changing my springs this summer I noticed that on my driver's side the wheel hub and half shaft were loose. So apparently the axle nut had backed off a bit. I thought this might be because I didn't replace the nut when I did my half shaft last summer. I replaced the axle nut, tightened it to the torque specs in my Bentley and things seemed nice and tight again. 
I just re-checked my wheel today because of some squeaking and now the new axle nut has backed out on me So I go to take off the axle nut to apply lock tite and re-torque it, but half way taking off the nut, it doesn't want to turn any more.







as if it has suddenly become cross threaded. Now the nut is stuck between almost off and nowhere close to being tight. Can't tighten it or loosen it, I broke my 1/2" drive breaker bar using a 4 foot cheater pipe trying to take it off the rest of the way... Any suggestions on how to proceed? I'm done for tonight and want to go at it again tomorrow with some sort of plan. Any Ideas? TIA


Yep... its a ****ty thing to deal with. I had the same thing happen to me on my cabby
You will probably need a new CV when this is said and done. You need to grind/cut the nut off of the axel. Chances are you will damage the axel in the process.
I would replace the wheel bearing and hub too while you are in there. They sound like they are on the way out anyways.
Use locktite on the axel splines not the axel nut, also make sure you tighten the nut to spec and maybe a touch more.


----------



## nofx1981 (Oct 24, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Yeah, it is pretty sh*tty, I'll go at it today with a grinder. Too bad there isn't enough room to get my cut-off wheel on that f'n nut. Thanks for yer help!


----------



## reignofterror (Dec 31, 2008)

*FV-QR*

thanks guys! you're my heroes. ::swoon::


----------



## Sponge Bob (Jun 8, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (reignofterror)*

Why am I not getting a display of the ambient temp on my MFA?


----------



## nofx1981 (Oct 24, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (Sponge Bob)*

the sensor is probably broken or not plugged in, check in the bumper on the passenger side, behind/below the blinker/foglight


----------



## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Wayne92SLC)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Wayne92SLC* »_
Nope--no play anywhere with me yanking on stuff. That's why this is so tough to diagnose.
I think there's a special tool for the inner tie rods. Is it necessary or just convenient? 

No special tool needed. Just a 17mm open end wrench and a crescent wrench that can open up to about 34 or so mm I thing. Did you check the rack tension? Its an idea since that can cause you a knock when the steering is loaded and than unloaded when you go over a bump.


----------



## Wayne92SLC (Mar 1, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (vwscream)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwscream* »_
No special tool needed. Just a 17mm open end wrench and a crescent wrench that can open up to about 34 or so mm I thing. Did you check the rack tension? Its an idea since that can cause you a knock when the steering is loaded and than unloaded when you go over a bump. 

I haven't checked the rack adjustment, but that's on my list. Thanks for the input!
-Wayne


----------



## ryanarchy (Nov 27, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Wayne92SLC)*

I bought that mk3 radio with the aux jack in it about two months ago and i cant get the screen to light up or even display anything, but the buttons light up. do i need to switch to the mk3 radio harness or should this be a plug and play deal? does anybody know what buttons i need to press to get it in safe mode, or display 0000? TIA


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (nofx1981)*

Nut Splitters work well also to get the stuck nut off. I did it before when I changed my half shafts on my old '80 Honda accord. We broke a 32mm socket and tried using a 1/2" breaker bar, impact socket, with a 5 foot galvanized steel breaker bar, and may father in the 280 lbs range, still didn't budge.
We actually used a tooled steel chisel to bust it off. would have used a nut splitter , but couldn't get in there with one with one, not enough room.


----------



## nofx1981 (Oct 24, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (Non_Affiliated)*

yeah, I was thinking a nut splitter would work well, but there no room with the hub in the way. I did finally get my nut off, I used my die grinder to grind down a spot on the nut right down to the threads of the CV. Then I used a chisel and small sledge hammer to break it off. Took me a little over an hour. I found that my bearing was shot, and I need a new outer CV joint as the threads are f'd.


----------



## wzach (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (ryanarchy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ryanarchy* »_I bought that mk3 radio with the aux jack in it about two months ago and i cant get the screen to light up or even display anything, but the buttons light up. do i need to switch to the mk3 radio harness or should this be a plug and play deal? does anybody know what buttons i need to press to get it in safe mode, or display 0000? TIA

radio is probably fried, this is what happened to my MK3 when it had ~20k miles on it. 
Turn the dial, it clicks, lights up but no workie. 
Try disconnecting your battery with it all wired in.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (wzach)*

Hey guys... going to put my a/c comp back in this weekend, but can't determine what type of oil it takes... PAG. Ester...?
Our Alldata system doesn't specify...


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

pag oil. do you have the specs for pressure? if not they are in the bentley. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Hello. Im new here. I bought a car from a guy, and was told to come here for help. 
haha


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_
Hello. Im new here. I bought a car from a guy, and was told to come here for help. 
haha
















<hr style="color: black;" size="1" width="15%" align="LEFT">
http://****************.com/smile/star.gif http://****************.com/smile/star.gif http://****************.com/default/zero2/lock5.gif 


Old owner was a cock sucker and looks like the new one is too... SAY WHAT


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

PAG oil fo sho?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*

jared! you doubt me because of my post count?


----------



## Pixie_rado (Sep 28, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

Welcome back


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_jared! you doubt me because of my post count? 









what happened? needed a name change?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

nah, this guy zach, sold me the car yesterday, and said I need to leave his legacy alone. I had to make the screen name before I could get the title. 






























_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_








what happened? needed a name change?

yup.


----------



## VpfinnersW (Jun 14, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_nah, this guy zach, sold me the car yesterday, and said I need to leave his legacy alone. I had to make the screen name before I could get the title. 





























yup.










so what you're really saying is you got sick of people calling you "wuh-zach" and not the proper "dub zach"







haha


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

yo experts....got more 02 sensor questiones,
I was able to undo the cover on the ecu plug to reveal the pins. Turns out I had a green wire (which I thought was going to 02 sensor plug) I believe is for AC...which I don't have anymore. So from pin 2 - I have a violet wire to wire into the oem plug. That's the sender. coming from the fuse panel is the red/white heater element. 
Bentley says I have two more wires that go into that plug - a black wire and a brown. This mystery black wire is nowhere to be found. What should I do?
as for the brown wire.....I have three grounded:








two come from the ECU (brown and a brown/black) that are supposed to go straight to ground. The other (brown) wire is grounded here, but terminates to no where. But it looks too thick to go into that plug? any ideas on WTF i have going on.


_Modified by dpgreek at 11:17 AM 10-27-2009_


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

got your voicemail last night D. The violet wire from ECU pin number 2 is the green one in all of the diagrams


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

huh? The green wire I found was coming out of pin 16 (which isn't listed at all on the ecu diagram on bentley...but in 1991...it's AC). Coming straight from the pin it's violet.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_huh? The green wire I found was coming out of pin 16 (which isn't listed at all on the ecu diagram on bentley...but in 1991...it's AC). Coming straight from the pin it's violet.










Your v/m last night said pin 2 on the ECU right? That pin goes to the o2 sensor.


----------



## nofx1981 (Oct 24, 2006)

quick question, should my horn beep when I lock my doors/arm the factory alarm?


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: (nofx1981)*

my bad Kyle....I read your post wrong. Exactly...what we thought was green is violet. now what do I do about that brown and black wire?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: (nofx1981)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nofx1981* »_quick question, should my horn beep when I lock my doors/arm the factory alarm?

mine does not, and I believe I have everything hooked up correctly. 
The keyless set i did does have the output to add it though. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4361507


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_
pag oil. do you have the specs for pressure? if not they are in the bentley. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


medium or high viscosity PAG? Parts store has both...


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

compressor manufacturers specs call for grade 46. I am positive that would be the mid since the grade 100 is the higher. there is a grade 150 for Rolls Royce and Voxhaull's








http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_compressor manufacturers specs call for grade 46. I am positive that would be the mid since the grade 100 is the higher. there is a grade 150 for Rolls Royce and Voxhaull's








http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 



i'll keep that in mind next time I work on my vauxhall! 
thanks man http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
BTW, are you going to FixxFest? We'll be there - stop by and see the Forge Scirocco! http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4622720


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

haha, got yerself a VX for real? pics or it dont exist. 
yeah man, i hope im there. 
If not something happened to me.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

it dont exist








cool see you there - stop by and introduce yourself! I don't know if my radowill be 'allowed' at our booth, as its dented and in need of paint!


----------



## 1Driv3r (Jun 17, 2006)

*ugghhh*

Ok, So today I decided to use a jump box that plugs into the wall for my car. 93 VR corrado. I try to start it and it clicks like crazy and everything is on super speed? I stopped unplugged it and said **** it...I will go buy a battery. So I did...and now my car wont start. I just had it started a couple days ago...but my alarm module that I just replaced drained my battery....Car started just fine after replacing the alarm module....So now I am wondering if I might have caused a voltage spike to my ECU? or distributor....or something I have to check for spark...I know it gets fuel...I hear the pump turn on... Either secondary ignition Coil, Crank sensor, cam sensor (distributor), ECU FTL...


----------



## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Hey guys... going to put my a/c comp back in this weekend, but can't determine what type of oil it takes... PAG. Ester...? 

Number of people get away with just using pag oil but recommendations are to use a blend of pag and ester if you will be using R-134a. The compressor internals were designed for mineral oil which does not flow with R-134a. PAG oil is designed for use with R-134a. Ester works very well in retrofitted system. The refrigerant will carry the PAG oil and some of the Ester but for the most part the ester oil will coat the system walls. The molecules of R-134a are much smaller than the R-12 that was found in the pre 93 Corrados. With no barrier hoses installed R-134a will slowly seep out and to reduce this you can use a bit of ester oil or top off your system when it gets low.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: ugghhh (Vdubracer612)*

wow, scream knows how to retro :thumbup. 


_Quote, originally posted by *Vdubracer612* »_Ok, So today I decided to use a jump box that plugs into the wall for my car. 93 VR corrado. I try to start it and it clicks like crazy and everything is on super speed? I stopped unplugged it and said **** it...I will go buy a battery. So I did...and now my car wont start. I just had it started a couple days ago...but my alarm module that I just replaced drained my battery....Car started just fine after replacing the alarm module....So now I am wondering if I might have caused a voltage spike to my ECU? or distributor....or something I have to check for spark...I know it gets fuel...I hear the pump turn on... Either secondary ignition Coil, Crank sensor, cam sensor (distributor), ECU FTL...






























check your wiring to the starter, and hit that mofo with a hammer.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_
check your wiring to the starter, and hit that mofo with a hammer. 



and check the load reduction relay.


----------



## 1Driv3r (Jun 17, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

The load reduction relay? which is that and how could it affect the starter? It doesn't click or anything and it cranks and cranks


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Vdubracer612)*

YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY I got the car put back together! Reman compressor, charger is fresh back from a tune-up at BBM, charcoal canister / vac regulator setup GONE, new knock sensor and she is purring like a kitten!!








Idles soooo smooth now!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Vdubracer612* »_The load reduction relay? which is that and how could it affect the starter? It doesn't click or anything and it cranks and cranks


Load reduction relay is part of th starting circuit. Sorry didnt hear that it actually cranks over though. if that is the case is the fuel pump coming on at all?


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY I got the car put back together! Reman compressor, charger is fresh back from a tune-up at BBM, charcoal canister / vac regulator setup GONE, new knock sensor and she is purring like a kitten!!








Idles soooo smooth now!


Good to hear man. AC blowing cold yet?


----------



## 1Driv3r (Jun 17, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Yeah the Fuel pump turns on, I think it has to either be ECU or the hall effect sensor in the distributor ? both of which are easy and inexpensive


----------



## VpfinnersW (Jun 14, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Vdubracer612)*

I'm about to replace the o-rings on the fuel injectors because I believe one or two of them are leaking.
While I'm in there, anything else I should replace?
Should I get the injectors rebuilt or buy new ones?
Any tips on removal and installation of the fuel injectors (G60)? I didn't see a DIY when I was searching


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Vdubracer612)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Vdubracer612* »_Yeah the Fuel pump turns on, I think it has to either be ECU or the hall effect sensor in the distributor ? both of which are easy and inexpensive

Do you have spark at the plugs? Do you have fuel getting into the cylinders? Doubt its ecu, more likely ecu relay check for both first


----------



## 1Driv3r (Jun 17, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

which is the ECU relay?


----------



## 1Driv3r (Jun 17, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (Vdubracer612)*

I tested relay number 109 and it is still good, I am pretty sure its the ECU. I dont think anything else would be wrong. I have no spark...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Vdubracer612* »_I tested relay number 109 and it is still good, I am pretty sure its the ECU. I dont think anything else would be wrong. I have no spark...


is there fuel in the cylinders? IE are the injectors firing?
_Quote, originally posted by *VpfinnersW* »_I'm about to replace the o-rings on the fuel injectors because I believe one or two of them are leaking.
While I'm in there, anything else I should replace?
Should I get the injectors rebuilt or buy new ones?
Any tips on removal and installation of the fuel injectors (G60)? I didn't see a DIY when I was searching


If you are removing the injectors you need to de-pressurize the rail before pulling it. Remove the fuel pump relay and pull the coil wire and crank the car over for 30 seconds or so.
careful when pulling the rail. its plastic and can be broken easily.
I would replace the fuel lines while you have it all apart.


----------



## philrobo (Oct 28, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

alright heres my first question... my wing doesnt automatically come up and now my gas gauge and temp gage arnt working... now i heard this was all from the same thing but i wasnt sure.... 2nd question what does everyone run for oil in there g60 rado's, guy that had it before me has a sticker on the window saying he ran 5 40... i dont know if i wanan run that was hoping you guys had some idea's... last but not least, the ecodes euro headlights, they basically a easy swap with the na and or do i need to add relay's to ecodes too... thx for the help


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (Vdubracer612)*

where is the ground for the cluster and where is mcnoob


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *nu2dubbing* »_where is the ground for the cluster and where is mcnoob


technically speaking in the fuse block. None of the wires from the cluster run directly to ground.
And no clue. haven't talked to him since h2o when I was out there.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (philrobo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *philrobo* »_alright heres my first question... my wing doesnt automatically come up and now my gas gauge and temp gage arnt working... now i heard this was all from the same thing but i wasnt sure.... 2nd question what does everyone run for oil in there g60 rado's, guy that had it before me has a sticker on the window saying he ran 5 40... i dont know if i wanan run that was hoping you guys had some idea's... last but not least, the ecodes euro headlights, they basically a easy swap with the na and or do i need to add relay's to ecodes too... thx for the help

I run Mobil1 20W-50 in my G60


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Good to hear man. AC blowing cold yet?

i'll bring it to work one day this week and charge it up, and enjoy my AC in November. Its down to 81 today!!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
I run Mobil1 20W-50 in my G60


ACK thats thick!

_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
i'll bring it to work one day this week and charge it up, and enjoy my AC in November. Its down to 81 today!! 


I hate you... its has already snowed 2 feet here.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
ACK thats thick!
I hate you... its has already snowed 2 feet here.

I just figured that 20W-50 would be best for those older vw engines. Plus remember its always hot as [email protected] here anyway... 
Plus it never gets cold enough to turn the oil into molasses! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
I just figured that 20W-50 would be best for those older vw engines. Plus remember its always hot as [email protected] here anyway... 
Plus it never gets cold enough to turn the oil into molasses! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


True you do have heat to deal with but that is still a bit thicker than I would go.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

20-50 summer
15-40 diesel for winter http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
for the VR/


----------



## VpfinnersW (Jun 14, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
If you are removing the injectors you need to de-pressurize the rail before pulling it. Remove the fuel pump relay and pull the coil wire and crank the car over for 30 seconds or so.
careful when pulling the rail. its plastic and can be broken easily.
I would replace the fuel lines while you have it all apart.

thanks for the advice. I'll make sure to do that http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
-Does anyone know if the G60 fuel rail is the same as another VW (maybe off a MKII 4 cyl 8v motor?) I would like to replace the fuel rail with a new one if possible.
-It seems that buying *new* G60 fuel injectors are out of the question...they are being sold for $131 to $200+ per injector and are in very small supply







What are people's recommendations on whether the injectors should be refurbished/rebuilt? Or should I just clean them with fuel injector cleaner, put fresh o-rings on and call it a day?
TIA to the corrado gurus


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *VpfinnersW* »_
thanks for the advice. I'll make sure to do that http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
-Does anyone know if the G60 fuel rail is the same as another VW (maybe off a MKII 4 cyl 8v motor?) I would like to replace the fuel rail with a new one if possible.
-It seems that buying *new* G60 fuel injectors are out of the question...they are being sold for $131 to $200+ per injector and are in very small supply







What are people's recommendations on whether the injectors should be refurbished/rebuilt? Or should I just clean them with fuel injector cleaner, put fresh o-rings on and call it a day?
TIA to the corrado gurus


Fuel rail is the same as digi II mk2 cars. that is it though. You can buy an aluminum rail from BBM or many other places as an option for you.
Send the injectors out and have them rebuilt and balanced.


----------



## ein (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

^ Cruzin Performance was recommended to me by a very reputable guy. Fast, reasonable, and they paint them too!


----------



## nofx1981 (Oct 24, 2006)

Hey guys, I just replaced the outer cv joint, wheel bearing and hub on the driver's side of my VR6 and now my inner cv joint decides to pop lose like so























The boot is ok, all the balls bearings still there and everything seems to be intact, can I just use a gear puller to pull the joint back together? or should I replace it?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

You should be able to put it right back in. If not then you will either need to replace it, or remove it from the axel to put the center section of the CV back in


----------



## nofx1981 (Oct 24, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

ok, cool, I thought it might be ok to put back together, just wanted some confirmation, thanks!


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (ein)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ein* »_^ Cruzin Performance was recommended to me by a very reputable guy. Fast, reasonable, and they paint them too!









I have heard also good things from here too. http://witchhunter.com/index.php4
may cost a little more but I like the fact that they layout their cleaning and testing methods.
Also Phil seeing that it jogged my memory that the fuel rail is plastic. There is a possibility it could be a small crack in the fuel rail itself.


----------



## VpfinnersW (Jun 14, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Non_Affiliated)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Non_Affiliated* »_
I have heard also good things from here too. http://witchhunter.com/index.php4
may cost a little more but I like the fact that they layout their cleaning and testing methods.
Also Phil seeing that it jogged my memory that the fuel rail is plastic. There is a possibility it could be a small crack in the fuel rail itself.

thanks guys for all the help. I'm going to tear into the corrado this weekend. My plan is to buy the BBM billet aluminum fuel rail and try to find a local shop to rebuild my injectors. The bbm fuel rail is expensive, but I can't find any new mkII/corrado fuel rails and ill have more piece of mind with a metal one. Also, the injector rebuild site Ein recommended, the guy is on vacation right now. Hopefully I'll find a local shop for a quicker turn around. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 1Driv3r (Jun 17, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (VpfinnersW)*

021-906-259AA That is the ECU out of a coilpack VR will it work with a dizzy ECU for a rado?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Vdubracer612)*

no.


----------



## ryanarchy (Nov 27, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

ok, so im seeing conflicting reports about passat moonroofs. out of the three, what has worked best for the majority of the group with the best results in the passat moonroof swap?:
the MK3 glass only
the entire B3/4 sunroof assembly 
or just the b3/b4 glass?
TIA http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif for the help. i just want my car to be as reliable and solid as it can be and not cut any corners. i already have a good seal, so that is not an issue. a sunroof is stupid thing to have fail, when i have a perfectly good one in the car


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (ryanarchy)*

entire late b4: Best fit.
This assembly has different metal used in some pieces rather than the pot metal of the early mk3 and b3 passat. Late MK3 also uses the better metal, I believe it was 96 up. 
B4 glass fits best using a MK3 wind deflector will position the roof to not be raised in the middle. 
I am using a late MK3 track, with a B4 glass, and B3 slider for the ultimate hybrid roof. 
Hope this helps.


----------



## nofx1981 (Oct 24, 2006)

Are there any tricks to getting control arms to slide out? I've removed the ball joint, the sway bar link, and the bolts going through the bushings, but the rear bushing will just NOT slide out of it's home. Both passenger and driver's side are stuck. I've tried prying, yanking and hammering, they don't seem to be budging.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: (nofx1981)*









apparently, I have a lot of slop in the way I bolted up the mechanism circled in blue. It's for a 90 g60. I have all the parts in the diagram, and put it together, but I was told I'm missing one or two bushings that fit in this area around a bolt or in the notch that the lever fits on to. Any pics would be helpful? Let me know


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *nofx1981* »_Are there any tricks to getting control arms to slide out? I've removed the ball joint, the sway bar link, and the bolts going through the bushings, but the rear bushing will just NOT slide out of it's home. Both passenger and driver's side are stuck. I've tried prying, yanking and hammering, they don't seem to be budging.










Prybar in the rear mounts and pry hard


----------



## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Prybar in the rear mounts and pry hard

x2 
Make sure you pull the front bushing out and when removing the back pull it forward and than out. There is a lip there keeping you from getting it out. Sorry I just got my front finished up and did not take a close up. 
Just went out and check and there is no way for me to take a pic showing the raised lip.
Here is what I did find. Look at the mounting point there is a half moon lip.

















_Modified by vwscream at 10:05 PM 11-10-2009_


_Modified by vwscream at 10:06 PM 11-10-2009_


----------



## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: (dpgreek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_








apparently, I have a lot of slop in the way I bolted up the mechanism circled in blue. It's for a 90 g60. I have all the parts in the diagram, and put it together, but I was told I'm missing one or two bushings that fit in this area around a bolt or in the notch that the lever fits on to. Any pics would be helpful? Let me know

Even with the new bushings you will have slop. I run into that with my VR6 just the other week and will be in process to make a aftermarket version with less play. The VR has a different pin in place of those bushing you have but there is play I don't like.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: (vwscream)*

but it's just wobbly even bolted up. I think Im' missing the parts....can someone take some pics of their 90 O2A assembly linkage down there and post up?


----------



## nofx1981 (Oct 24, 2006)

Thanks for the help guys! I put a little more muscle into my prying and they popped right out!


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (nofx1981)*

in keeping with corrado tradition, something broke while I had the car out today. Does anyone know of a source for new exterior door handles for a 91 (aftermarket maybe) or have a set of like-new ones ready to sell? thanks doods!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_in keeping with corrado tradition, something broke while I had the car out today. Does anyone know of a source for new exterior door handles for a 91 (aftermarket maybe) or have a set of like-new ones ready to sell? thanks doods! 


What broke? Just the mechanism? If thats the case there are metal repair kits available for them.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
What broke? Just the mechanism? If thats the case there are metal repair kits available for them.

when you pull the handle, nothing happens. It only works from inside. Yesterday I noticed that it had a lot of play in it, and did not fully "retract" to its "resting" position when you used the handle.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
when you pull the handle, nothing happens. It only works from inside. Yesterday I noticed that it had a lot of play in it, and did not fully "retract" to its "resting" position when you used the handle.


Bad mechanism. get a repair kit for it.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...age=1


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

whats the install like?
I assume by your recommendation of originalgermanfolks, that these in the link below would not be as good (even though they include a removal tool)?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...:1123


_Modified by [email protected] at 3:37 PM 11-12-2009_


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

either one would work and last longer than stock


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Have you done this before, Kyle? Whats the level of difficulty or install time?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Have you done this before, Kyle? Whats the level of difficulty or install time?


Honestly nope. I have never had one break.
I would assume it is pretty quick. Just remove the handle (the screw is left handed) from the door, disconnect the handle wiring and then replace the mechanism. and put it back in. I would guess less than an hour as it takes about 30 seconds to pull the handle off.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

i'll let ya know how it goes


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

I did change the pins on mine, i can def help if you need it. It is a super easy task though. 
Only differnce is I used passat rear door handles with no locks and used a different striker pin to use those handles on the corrado. 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_I did change the pins on mine, i can def help if you need it. It is a super easy task though. 
Only differnce is I used passat rear door handles with no locks and used a different striker pin to use those handles on the corrado. 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

that's cool man I appreciate it. If you say its easy Im sure me and my buddy who is a tech here can knock it out. I just feed him beer and stuff gets done


----------



## Wayne92SLC (Mar 1, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

Make sure you route the wiring harness carefully and use the existing wire guides whenever possible. I half-assed it the first time around and got the harness snagged on the window.








Gotta get the door panel/moisture barrier off to do it since the connector is attached down by where the speaker is. Fun stuff...
-Wayne


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

*Re: (dpgreek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_but it's just wobbly even bolted up. I think Im' missing the parts....can someone take some pics of their 90 O2A assembly linkage down there and post up?


----------



## palakaman (Oct 8, 2006)

*Re: (dogger)*

my question. can someone give me the dimensions of the upper radiator bolt that connects the elbow to the radiator?
93 vr6


----------



## Swink (Aug 15, 2003)

*Re: (palakaman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *palakaman* »_my question. can someone give me the dimensions of the upper radiator bolt that connects the elbow to the radiator?
93 vr6 

do you mean the bolt that connects the plastic flange to the actual radiator?


----------



## Wayne92SLC (Mar 1, 2001)

*Re: (dogger)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dogger* »_


















Holy F. Looks like this rig just rolled off the assembly line!


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

*Re: (Wayne92SLC)*

It did. The assembly line at my garage.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_I did change the pins on mine, i can def help if you need it. It is a super easy task though. 
Only differnce is I used passat rear door handles with no locks and used a different striker pin to use those handles on the corrado. 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

where is the piece that gets replaced located... on the handle or the gold-colored latch assembly that mounts on the door?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

on the back of the handle. 
The arm moves downward when the handle is pulled. 
Here is the passat lockless handles i did with the strikers from Original German Folks. 








I did have to add 1/8" to the bottom to make the pin work properly.








Kit comes with new pins, use a center punch to get the old ones out. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (DUBZAK)*

oh okay... i couldnt picture where those strikers went. You think the germanfolks are good or I was looking at these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...:1123


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Original German Folks are the same without the powdercoating on them. Cost less as well. 
Check for his thread here.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (DUBZAK)*

found it... thanks man


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)




----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (DUBZAK)*

too bad i dont have the parts already - perfect weather for wrenchin


----------



## VR SEX (Apr 2, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*








alright so my passenger side strike pin (on the unibody in the door jamb) the plastic from it has wedged itself in the lock mechanism and the door will not open.
Anyone have a trick or advise for get my door open.
both interior and exterior handless will release the door from the shut position, but only about a 1/4 inch.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

wow, i have not encountered this one before.....
can you get the pannel off from inside the car?


----------



## VR SEX (Apr 2, 2002)

*Re: (DUBZAK)*

not with out damaging it, all the side screws are concealed in the jamb


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

you have PM. 
Special outside contractor for assitance.


----------



## Cor32rado (Jun 5, 2006)

*Re: (DUBZAK)*

Well I recently had an idea for a top mounted intercooler, but it is looking like the giant fan motor is going to get in the way. Has anyone had any luck with any sort of slimline fans? If you have used any of these slim fans what did you use as a shroud, or did you mount them in front of the radiator?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: (Cor32rado)*

Slimfans use pins to mount to the radiator so no shroud. I know of people doing one push, one pull fans and no issues.(Dapucker1) with clearance for a Short runner on a VR. 
As far as top mount, i hear heat rises, and if top mounted in the engine compartment you get a lot of heat soak that way. Subaru tp mounts get replaced by front mounts. There is a reason for that.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (Cor32rado)*

if any of you guys need the metal tube that takes hot air into the air filter box on a g60, i have one for free (just pay me for shipping).


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_Slimfans use pins to mount to the radiator so no shroud. I know of people doing one push, one pull fans and no issues.(Dapucker1) with clearance for a Short runner on a VR. 
As far as top mount, i hear heat rises, and if top mounted in the engine compartment you get a lot of heat soak that way. Subaru tp mounts get replaced by front mounts. There is a reason for that. 

I would build a shroud for the slim fans, the pin mounts for the slim fans will destroy your radiator eventually


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (TheBurninator)*

whirring sound from the auto trans when im on the gas... is she on her way out or what?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: ([email protected])*

if it sounds like your supercharged, yes. The autos are a dying breed. 
DSG swap? lol


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_if it sounds like your supercharged, yes. The autos are a dying breed. 
DSG swap? lol

yeah its a funny "whirring" sound... should I start looking for one now?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Have you changed the fluid? Problems shifting?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (DUBZAK)*

i did a fluid and filter change a few months ago. It does shift somewhat hard. I dont have it in "sport" mode either.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Now would be a good time to consider a manual swap. Sourcing the parts for that will be just as hard on your wallet as rebuilding an automatic.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_Now would be a good time to consider a manual swap. Sourcing the parts for that will be just as hard on your wallet as rebuilding an automatic. 


golly that sounds fantastic...


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

We havent eve got into the labor portion. Pulling the dash for the pedal cluster swap, dropping the exhaust for the shift linkage, ect....
The auo that is in your car is the same auto up to 93 used on both VR6 and 4 Cyl models. Bellhousings are the only difference I believe. 
If you want to keep the auto, finding a Passat 16v auto trans would be best advised.


----------



## VeeDubScott (Apr 13, 2006)

I just purchased a Corrado G60. I'm coming from the Mk3 world so this is all kinda new to me.
The PO told me he had this installed:
Techtonics Tuning One-way Valve (G60):
http://www.techtonicstuning.co...3.385
They claim it keeps the ISV from bleeding off boost." I called TT last week to ask them about it and was told it doesn't negatively affect performance and should prolong the life of the G-Lader. Apparently it is just shoved into the hose between the breather and the intake manifold.
I was hoping to get the straight goods on this thing from you guys, the experts.







I was under the impression that excess boost should return to the airbox for maximum performance. Wouldn't this prevent that?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (VeeDubScott)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VeeDubScott* »_I just purchased a Corrado G60. I'm coming from the Mk3 world so this is all kinda new to me.
The PO told me he had this installed:
Techtonics Tuning One-way Valve (G60):
http://www.techtonicstuning.co...3.385
They claim it keeps the ISV from bleeding off boost." I called TT last week to ask them about it and was told it doesn't negatively affect performance and should prolong the life of the G-Lader. Apparently it is just shoved into the hose between the breather and the intake manifold.
I was hoping to get the straight goods on this thing from you guys, the experts.







I was under the impression that excess boost should return to the airbox for maximum performance. Wouldn't this prevent that?

The TT check valve is a good product, I would recommend an ISV reroute kit (available from Bahn Brenner as well as a few other companies) to be more effective.
Theres a few other guys in here who could prob shed some more light on this... give it a few minutes they'll chime in!


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: ([email protected])*

hey if any of you guys need any odds and ends, I have a few things here that I'm tired of having around and I need to get out of my garage. dome light, g-lader belt cover, g60 front grille)
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4468374


----------



## VR SEX (Apr 2, 2002)

*Re: (VR SEX)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VR SEX* »_







alright so my passenger side strike pin (on the unibody in the door jamb) the plastic from it has wedged itself in the lock mechanism and the door will not open.
Anyone have a trick or advise for get my door open.
both interior and exterior handless will release the door from the shut position, but only about a 1/4 inch.

Got the door open... I tried for two hours with a screw driver that had the tip slightly bent. 
I was going from the inside and depressing the trigger that releases the second stage of lock mechanism.
When I tried on the side that wasn't stuck, it worked first try everytime.
The stuck side not so much...
So we (xtremevdub and I) resorted to shaking the door, like a woman you don't want to hit 'cause she'll call the cops.








and voila...after a violent shake the door opened...
Readjusted and retaped the strike pin. Which will have to be replaced along with the lock mecahanism, which is pretty beat up as well.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *VR SEX* »_
So we (xtremevdub and I) resorted to shaking the door, like a woman you don't want to hit 'cause she'll call the cops.










Does your door make me a sandwich too? If not shake harder I want a goddamn sandwich!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *VeeDubScott* »_I just purchased a Corrado G60. I'm coming from the Mk3 world so this is all kinda new to me.
The PO told me he had this installed:
Techtonics Tuning One-way Valve (G60):
http://www.techtonicstuning.co...3.385
They claim it keeps the ISV from bleeding off boost." I called TT last week to ask them about it and was told it doesn't negatively affect performance and should prolong the life of the G-Lader. Apparently it is just shoved into the hose between the breather and the intake manifold.
I was hoping to get the straight goods on this thing from you guys, the experts.







I was under the impression that excess boost should return to the airbox for maximum performance. Wouldn't this prevent that?


That should be between the ISV and the boost tube running to the throttle body, not between the breather on the valve cover.
Will not affect the way the boost is bled off when you let off the throttle, the boost return hose/lower butterfly on the throttle body is un-affected.
It is a solid mod.


----------



## Cor32rado (Jun 5, 2006)

*Re: (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_ Slimfans use pins to mount to the radiator so no shroud. 

Where is a good place to get these slim fans? Can 2 - 11" fans fit on the G60 radiator? And does anyone make a setup like this (http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/16927/10002/-1) with fans and shroud all together for the G60?

_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_ As far as top mount, i hear heat rises, and if top mounted in the engine compartment you get a lot of heat soak that way. Subaru top mounts get replaced by front mounts. There is a reason for that. 

My plan was to make a heat shield around the IC and also to graft in some vents or a scoop to feed fresh air to the IC. I am planning on moving my battery to the trunk and using a Mazda IC that a friend has at his shop, with some slight modifications. The thought is that this will shorten the path of the airflow to the TB and thus give me better throttle response.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

no kits that I know of for a g60... Build a shroud out of aluminum and use the stock shroud mounting points on the radiator. Done deal!
Your IC plan has fail written all over it. I would build a front mount before I would go cutting vents, etc etc.


----------



## pug_nasty (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

I NEED HELP!
Bought the car and it broke down 3 weeks later...it randomly stalls while driving and wont restart for a while.
It seems like it just stops getting spark..then wont spark when i try to restart.
Already changed: Ignition Coil, fuel pressure regulator, Distributor, cap and rotor, and ECU.
When i put the new ecu in...it wouldnt start like it did with the old ecu.
My dad seems to think i got a bad ecu...i think hes crazy...what do you guys think it could be?
Did i get a bad ecu or is it just something else?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (pug_nasty)*

Ok, there's a MILE long list of things that can go wrong, and to help you , we need more info. Time frames, does it run sometimes, have you checked the relays, fuel pump turn on and you can hear it? 
Its a G60 right?
ECU codes, are they the SAME Part number?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *pug_nasty* »_I NEED HELP!
Bought the car and it broke down 3 weeks later...it randomly stalls while driving and wont restart for a while.
It seems like it just stops getting spark..then wont spark when i try to restart.
Already changed: Ignition Coil, fuel pressure regulator, Distributor, cap and rotor, and ECU.
When i put the new ecu in...it wouldnt start like it did with the old ecu.
My dad seems to think i got a bad ecu...i think hes crazy...what do you guys think it could be?
Did i get a bad ecu or is it just something else?










Well did you actually check for spark or are you assuming?
Does the fuel pump turn on when you key on the car?
Hows the fuses look? Relays for fuel pump and ECU?
what is your mom's horoscope and is she into kinky things your dad doesn't know about?
Almost sounds like an ignition switch or bad relay rather than ECU.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*

haha beat you to it, but I must say sir, your diagnosis is spot on. LOL


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_haha beat you to it, but I must say sir, your diagnosis is spot on. LOL


haha damn you sir!
Does that mean I got burninated? I hope he talks about dirty things his mom does but dad doesn't know about


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Meh, No, I got burninated, and am taking a break from the wonders that are the "Job hunt".


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_Meh, No, I got burninated, and am taking a break from the wonders that are the "Job hunt". 


weak sauce... maybe you should work at a porn store. I would if I was looking for a job!
[/drunk]


----------



## pug_nasty (Jun 17, 2009)

DUBZAK: Yes, it runs sometimes, will check relays. 
Basically, if I drove for a while, turned it off then tried to turn it back on...nothing. Then, i was making a right turn and the car shut off. 10 mins later it started and i got back home. This happened again, got it home, but the next day it wouldnt start. Changed the parts I stated in OP and now it starts half the time..and half the time it doesnt. When it does start we try to shut it off and restart to test it. Again, half the time it does, half the time it doesnt
Yes, the fuel pump turns on. G60 and yes, the ecu part number is the same.
Burninator: Yes, when it would fail we checked each time and there was no spark. Should have clarified.
Fuel pump and relays are fine.
Fuses are fine. I will check the relay to the ecu.
Will check the ignition switch and relays like you suggested.
thx a lot both of you
Edit: Virgo...and yes.




_Modified by pug_nasty at 10:49 PM 11-16-2009_


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

good sport. lol you'll do fine here. 

let us know what you find. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *pug_nasty* »_DUBZAK: Yes, it runs sometimes, will check relays. 
Basically, if I drove for a while, turned it off then tried to turn it back on...nothing. Then, i was making a right turn and the car shut off. 10 mins later it started and i got back home. This happened again, got it home, but the next day it wouldnt start. Changed the parts I stated in OP and now it starts half the time..and half the time it doesnt. When it does start we try to shut it off and restart to test it. Again, half the time it does, half the time it doesnt
Yes, the fuel pump turns on. G60 and yes, the ecu part number is the same.
Burninator: Yes, when it would fail we checked each time and there was no spark. Should have clarified.
Fuel pump and relays are fine.
Fuses are fine. I will check the relay to the ecu.
Will check the ignition switch and relays like you suggested.
thx a lot both of you
Edit: Virgo...and yes.


It sounds like the car just hasn't been maintained more than anything.
Deff replace the ignition switch. They are really cheap. 7 bucks last I checked.
With what you are saying about lack of spark, how is the hall sender on the dizzy? If the hall sender is coming apart then that is your issue right there. 2 ecu's and still no spark don't usually point to 2 bad ECU's
And you are totally a good sport. You may call me dad from now on LOL jk jk


----------



## pug_nasty (Jun 17, 2009)

The car was def not maintained very well by the PO. Once I get this solved Im gonna have to find a diagram for the vaccuum lines..they look ridiculous right now, but no diagram on the fan shroud.
Anyways Im gonna replace the ignition switch asap and check everything else you mentioned.
2 bad ECUs really didnt sound right.
thx again


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: (pug_nasty)*

When it dies, check Voltage going to the Ignition coil.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: (Non_Affiliated)*

I have an eibach flat strut bar - I was told it would fit on the G60, however, I don't think that's the case. Long story short....the whole thing sits up a little high and my G60 hood won't close. I have the hood hinges slid up to the highest point too. Is there anything I can do to make it work? 
I'm guessing not and my options are get a VR hood....or to sell it and get another style?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (dpgreek)*

SOmewhat off-topic here, but if any of you guys want a VW refurbished Heidelberg radio fo ryour 'rado, ECS is blowing them out super cheap:
Just in case you have some old cassette singles you want to rock out in the ‘Rado…. 
http://www.ecstuning.com/Searc...33231/


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: (dpgreek)*

dim
i would buy it off you, but unemployment is the suck. 
go for the autotech bar http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: (DUBZAK)*

that's what I was thinking....gotta cover up the drilled holes on the strut towers.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Damn, I need to make some money fast. I totally want that strut bar! Damn bills own me


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

hopefully I won't have to sell it, as I would love to keep it - which is why I'm asking about it in this thread....I'm just wondering if anyone's made it work without shaving the ends down on the strut tower


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_hopefully I won't have to sell it, as I would love to keep it - which is why I'm asking about it in this thread....I'm just wondering if anyone's made it work without shaving the ends down on the strut tower


I don't think I have ever seen one on a g60 at all even. Maybe cris has a pic?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Its a VR only Part, i know for sure cause it clears the VR hood, but not the g60. 
Plus it wasnt available until almost 94 IICRC


----------



## ALLROAD VR (Jan 23, 2006)

*Re: (DUBZAK)*

Which OEM VW NGK sparkplugs should I use? 
BKR5EKU or BKR6EKU
The VR is stock, just with intake and exhaust.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *S4Bi-T* »_Which OEM VW NGK sparkplugs should I use? 
BKR5EKU or BKR6EKU
The VR is stock, just with intake and exhaust.










BKR6EKU
The 5's are 16v plugs


----------



## ALLROAD VR (Jan 23, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
BKR6EKU
The 5's are 16v plugs

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nofx1981 (Oct 24, 2006)

So I've stripped the threads on the bolt for the front control arm bushing, it won't tighten... can I just buy a new bolt, run a tap through whatever is in the subframe and hopefully it'll hold? Might I have to cut open the subframe? Any insight would be helpful... Thanks
pics of the bolt:


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: (nofx1981)*

You may be able to just chase the threads with the correct size tap, looks like you gualled the threads on the bolt. Could be wrong though.


----------



## nofx1981 (Oct 24, 2006)

*Re: (Non_Affiliated)*

I'm gonna try to clean up the threads in the subframe and get a new bolt, see what happens....


----------



## kevhayward (Mar 13, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
BKR6EKU
The 5's are 16v plugs

BKR5EKU is the stock plug on euro 2.9 VR6s








I've tried them all and in all honest, VR6s just aren't that fussy with plugs unless you're boosting, and even then they'll run on quite a few different types http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *kevhayward* »_
BKR5EKU is the stock plug on euro 2.9 VR6s








I've tried them all and in all honest, VR6s just aren't that fussy with plugs unless you're boosting, and even then they'll run on quite a few different types http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


Didn't know that about the 2.9's
Yeah they aren't too fussy and as long as you are in a correct heat range for boost they are happy.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

SO, leaky injectors will cause rough starts in the morning, rite?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

It does and so does a bad FPR check pressure before the rail. If normal, look for leaks. 
Smell gas?


----------



## ALLROAD VR (Jan 23, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
BKR6EKU
The 5's are 16v plugs

Anyone got the part number for the BKR6EKU? 
Also looking for the part number of the front VR6 bumper bracket, just below the fender. 












_Modified by S4Bi-T at 8:28 PM 11-19-2009_


----------



## Halojunkie222 (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

Has any of the experts here done a DIY CAI for a 92 Corrado SLC. Im a big fan of DIY stuff so i figured i'd see if anyone has a good step by step or write up for one. or if im insane for thinkin of the DIY on a CAI


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Halojunkie222)*


_Quote, originally posted by *S4Bi-T* »_
Anyone got the part number for the BKR6EKU? 
Also looking for the part number of the front VR6 bumper bracket, just below the fender. 


that *is* the only number you need for the plugs at any parts store. 
For the bumper bracket & any other p/n you need. 
http://www.vagcat.com

_Quote, originally posted by *Halojunkie222* »_Has any of the experts here done a DIY CAI for a 92 Corrado SLC. Im a big fan of DIY stuff so i figured i'd see if anyone has a good step by step or write up for one. or if im insane for thinkin of the DIY on a CAI









c'mon man really? you live near seattle and want a CAI. You know what a straw does right?








Hydro lock is not cool. 
Ok, if yoy are serious about one, go get any generic honda one, and test fit it with clamps if some sort. 
Bolt one side to your MAF with the bend going through the whole where your charcoal canister is or was. 
Not to complex.


----------



## VR SEX (Apr 2, 2002)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (DUBZAK)*

tried vagcat but couldn't find the pn..
the clear lense and gasket for the liscence plate lights
I only found the pn for what appeared to be the metal outer trim piece


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (VR SEX)*

I haz no ETKA. if Kyle does, hell post it for you.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *VR SEX* »_tried vagcat but couldn't find the pn..
the clear lense and gasket for the liscence plate lights
I only found the pn for what appeared to be the metal outer trim piece


I will try and get that PN for you


----------



## Halojunkie222 (Oct 27, 2009)

*Buying a Used Chip*

So if i plan on buying a used chip what is it that i have to look for to make sure it will work with my car? i heard its the type of motor, theres some special code on it, and to be honest i have no idea. 
Any help?


----------



## Halojunkie222 (Oct 27, 2009)

*DIY Dash mod 92 corrado SLC*

Anyone know of a good detailed write up for dash mods? gauges and lights preferably something to illuminate it a little more?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

G60 engine: 89 or 93 octane...?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: Buying a Used Chip (Halojunkie222)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Halojunkie222* »_So if i plan on buying a used chip what is it that i have to look for to make sure it will work with my car? i heard its the type of motor, theres some special code on it, and to be honest i have no idea. 
Any help? 









they are ECU code specefic for the most part. Make sure they come from a similar ecu or supported ecu. 
Check with the manufacturer.
As for dash mods, you really need to search "interior".
The gauge faces from DDI are the most know, there is customer work done by 5d0t1 on here that you should also search for. 
Jared, 89 or 93 are the options? I would run 93 but it really isnt 100% clear that you HAVE to unless you chip tune calls directly for it. 
Didnt get another chance to see you on Saturday, and i will be in Mexico durring Winter Treffen.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: Buying a Used Chip (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_
Jared, 89 or 93 are the options? I would run 93 but it really isnt 100% clear that you HAVE to unless you chip tune calls directly for it. 
Didnt get another chance to see you on Saturday, and i will be in Mexico durring Winter Treffen. 









I dont have a chip tune, so im thinking 89 is the best option.
No sweat, I'll catch up with you at DubJam in February in Daytona!


----------



## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: Buying a Used Chip (DUBZAK)*

The bumper bracket is less than $20 from 1stvwparts.com. What happen did the inner bolt tabs break? If they did you can cut them off and use a square insert in its place. 
I was going to use the NGK but ended up with Bosh Copper Plus.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
I dont have a chip tune, so im thinking 89 is the best option.
No sweat, I'll catch up with you at DubJam in February in Daytona!










Run premium in it. The ecu will retard timing with 89


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Run premium in it. The ecu will retard timing with 89

oh reallllly? ive been running 89 so Ive probably not been helping myself out oo much then, eh? I'm giving her a tank of 93 and a can of seafoam today as a special treat


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
oh reallllly? ive been running 89 so Ive probably not been helping myself out oo much then, eh? I'm giving her a tank of 93 and a can of seafoam today as a special treat










Go easy on the seafoam through the gas. And deff run the 93. Man I wish we had 93 here


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Go easy on the seafoam through the gas. And deff run the 93. Man I wish we had 93 here









I figure after 18 years of what appears to be very little maintenance, one can of the 'foam will probably be okay. I'm sure there's a lotta
sh!t built up in there.
I'm pretty sure I've got a leaky injector too - starts real rough in in the morning like theres gas sitting in the cylinder. When I drive it all day, re-starts are fine, no stumble at all.
All the other tune-up stuff has been done. I did grab a brand new ICV for only $75 on eBay if I need that to go in there, but those things rarely go "bad" from what I know.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
I figure after 18 years of what appears to be very little maintenance, one can of the 'foam will probably be okay. I'm sure there's a lotta
sh!t built up in there.
I'm pretty sure I've got a leaky injector too - starts real rough in in the morning like theres gas sitting in the cylinder. When I drive it all day, re-starts are fine, no stumble at all.
All the other tune-up stuff has been done. I did grab a brand new ICV for only $75 on eBay if I need that to go in there, but those things rarely go "bad" from what I know.



Replace the injector o-rings see if it feels better. Otherwise it is probably something else causing the hard starts.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_

Replace the injector o-rings see if it feels better. Otherwise it is probably something else causing the hard starts.

any ideas? Cap, rotor, wires, coil, coolant temp sensors are all brand new. Knock sensor is new, vacuum regulator / charcoal cannister system is deleted, idle valve reroute is installed. Thats why I was thinkin leaky injector....
I guess when I'm feeling motivated to take it apart again, i'll do those o-rings.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
any ideas? Cap, rotor, wires, coil, coolant temp sensors are all brand new. Knock sensor is new, vacuum regulator / charcoal cannister system is deleted, idle valve reroute is installed. Thats why I was thinkin leaky injector....
I guess when I'm feeling motivated to take it apart again, i'll do those o-rings.










FPR is a possbile still too.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
FPR is a possbile still too.

i forgot about the FPR! But if it was bad, wouldn't the rough starts be constant, and not just after the car sits overnight for instance?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
i forgot about the FPR! But if it was bad, wouldn't the rough starts be constant, and not just after the car sits overnight for instance?


More probable, but its a corrado so I wouldn't rule it out. LOL


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
More probable, but its a corrado so I wouldn't rule it out. LOL

'nuff said


----------



## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
i forgot about the FPR! But if it was bad, wouldn't the rough starts be constant, and not just after the car sits overnight for instance?

Have your tried priming the fuel system before trying to start it the first time. If you do have a leaking injector you will have fuel in the cylinder if its the pump check valve is leaking than priming the system will help in cold morning starts.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (vwscream)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwscream* »_
Have your tried priming the fuel system before trying to start it the first time. If you do have a leaking injector you will have fuel in the cylinder if its the pump check valve is leaking than priming the system will help in cold morning starts. 

you mean like turning the key to the "on" position for a sec before starting? Yes I do that already. Doesn't seem to help.


----------



## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
you mean like turning the key to the "on" position for a sec before starting? Yes I do that already. Doesn't seem to help.

I would prime the fuel system by manually bypassing the fuel pump relay and let it run for a bit to purge air out.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (vwscream)*

gotcha... thanks!


----------



## Rento_VW (Jul 1, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

How do I remove this cover or w/e to get to the sliders so I can adjust the alignment???








This whole swap has taken me nearly 10 hours to do...


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Rento_VW)*

Kyle, Zak... I got my wheels (Miro STP-1). They're 16x7.5. I need to make a tire size decision, so I ordered one of each of these from our supplier to check out before I get a full set:
205-45
205-40
215-40
Obviously I don't want to rub in the fenders, etc. I don't think I'd be against a lil stretch... which will prob be the case as I'm thinking the 215s will be too wide? I'm leaning toward the 205-45. My car is lowered but not slammed.
Thoughts / opinions?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Nice, we need pics!!!!!
Im pretty sure Kyle would agree. 205/40. 
If not a 195/40 lol. Do your suppliers have those sizes?


----------



## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Rento_VW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Rento_VW* »_How do I remove this cover or w/e to get to the sliders so I can adjust the alignment???








This whole swap has taken me nearly 10 hours to do...

















Push it by hand and it will pop out and give you access.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (DUBZAK)*









VW center caps will be on the way soon
I think 40 might be a little too low profile? Esp with the 205 slight stretchage? know what i mean?
I have a 205-40 and a 205-45 sittin right here


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

well, i say 40's, but you can always burn them off intentionaly if you do not like them. 
If your not planning on slammng it, then the 45's will ride nice and fill the wheel wells.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_








VW center caps will be on the way soon
I think 40 might be a little too low profile? Esp with the 205 slight stretchage? know what i mean?
I have a 205-40 and a 205-45 sittin right here


What is the size of the wheels?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

They're 16x7.5. I need to make a tire size decision, so I ordered one of each of these from our supplier to check out before I get a full set:
205-45
205-40
215-40
Obviously I don't want to rub in the fenders, etc. I don't think I'd be against a lil stretch... which will prob be the case as I'm thinking the 215s will be too wide. I'm leaning toward the 205-45. My car is lowered but not slammed.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

195/40/16's or 205/40/16's


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

think i'll mount one of each of the 205s and see what they look like. Im guessing the 45 series might look a bit too balloon-y, eh?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_think i'll mount one of each of the 205s and see what they look like. Im guessing the 45 series might look a bit too balloon-y, eh?


Yeah pretty damn balloony on that narrow of a wheel.
I still vote 195's


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

told you so......LOLZ


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
I still vote 195's









nah too much stretch for my taste!








on another subject, is there a outside handle from another VW that would be compatible with the G60? The 93 and up models have a different revision letter on the end of the part number, and I could get aftermarket ones really cheap if I could just find one.
But I assume nothing else will work - cuz its a corrado


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
nah too much stretch for my taste!








on another subject, is there a outside handle from another VW that would be compatible with the G60? The 93 and up models have a different revision letter on the end of the part number, and I could get aftermarket ones really cheap if I could just find one.
But I assume nothing else will work - cuz its a corrado










There won't really be much stretch with those wheels, quit being a sissy








Passat handles will fit but need a small modification to fit. Late corrado handles will fit early corrado's also. The only difference is the area around the lock cylinder is raised a bit on the late ones and is flat on the early ones


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
you mean like turning the key to the "on" position for a sec before starting? Yes I do that already. Doesn't seem to help.

FYI, corrado fuel pumps do not turn on until the CAR IS RUNNING. they don't prime like a normal car. 
i agree with the "jump the relay" suggestion. relay # 167 or 67 (both the same) 
Ray: that thing does indeed "unclip" by sliding back from the front. do not forget to "clip" it back in place, or it rattles like a bitch (did that once, and it drove me nuts for the 30 seconds i drove the car)
Jared, stretch the piss outa them, you only live once. wuss. 
Hi Kyle.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
Jared, stretch the piss outa them, you only live once. wuss. 


lolz








welcome back


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
Hi Kyle. 










Hi Mike!


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Hi guys.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_Hi guys. 


Hi Will!


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

Ohai guys. I am Chris. 
Another spoiler question...
My spoiler motor works, so the spoiler goes up and down. However, as soon as I give the car gas the spoiler will go up...I don't even have to be moving, just if getting the RPMs up will make the spoiler come up. 
Ideas?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (chrisd1891)*

spoiler module or speed sensor?
experts?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Sounds like a crossed wire somewhere.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

if it is a 92 slc (per yer sig) the vehicle speed sensor wire goes from VSS to cluster then to spoiler control module. the RPM pickup is likely crossed/touching/etc the VSS wire (blue/white)
IIRC, the RPM pickup is red/white
i would pull the cluster out and see if there is any visible evidence of a frayed wire etc.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

as you can see i have nothing to contribute


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_as you can see i have nothing to contribute










Well you did donate a night with yer mom a few weeks ago. That was contribution enough


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

um, what did i miss?

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

dumb question...I got ecodes...need to replace the bulbs.....they're H4 right? is there a diff bw NA headlight bulbs and euro? also trying to find something a little brighter but not HID.....any recommendations?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Well you did donate a night with yer mom a few weeks ago. That was contribution enough









[email protected] she's "contributed" to every forum on the 'tex now!


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_dumb question...I got ecodes...need to replace the bulbs.....they're H4 right? is there a diff bw NA headlight bulbs and euro? also trying to find something a little brighter but not HID.....any recommendations?

i've heard silverstar are pretty good for non-HID, hella makes some too ( i think I saw them at Advance Auto)


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
[email protected] she's "contributed" to every forum on the 'tex now!










I saw her in your caddy build... so she's gotta be makin her way around. Glad the corrado guys didn't get sloppy seconds.

_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
i've heard silverstar are pretty good for non-HID, hella makes some too ( i think I saw them at Advance Auto)


Yup


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
I saw her in your caddy build... so she's gotta be makin her way around. Glad the corrado guys didn't get sloppy seconds.


that caddy has a 6 foot bed that never has to be made. can't keep her out of there.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

H4 silverstars, i have them in the daily, with E Codes, and they rock.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_H4 silverstars, i have them in the daily, with E Codes, and they rock. 


Speaking of rocking and beds that never need to be made... hows McMom doin?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*

Im running the HELLA H4's, used to run the Silverstars. 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_Im running the HELLA H4's, used to run the Silverstars. 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

so you prefer the hellas? are they whiter, or...


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

nah, they have the same light blue hue to them, look bright white. 
IIRC there is about a $10.00 difference. Hella's are a few $$$ more.


----------



## ALLROAD VR (Jan 23, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

We're putting back the VR intake manifold and we have no idea where this hose goes lol...








It's coming from here at the back of the motor...








Where does it go? TIA.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_nah, they have the same light blue hue to them, look bright white. 
IIRC there is about a $10.00 difference. Hella's are a few $$$ more. 


i was thinking about doing those on mine, I put in an HID kit and its just toooo bright... those giant housings and HIDs just dont mix. *If anyone wants a bi-xenon (HIS for hi and lo beam







)H4 kit (5000k) for about $75 shipped, LMK.*
On the same subject, is the up/down aiming adjustment for the headlights the one that is way at the bottom, that you need a [email protected] screwdriver to reach??


_Modified by [email protected] at 4:53 PM 11-30-2009_


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

yay EGR BS


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
*If anyone wants a bi-xenon (HIS for hi and lo beam







)H4 kit (5000k) for about $75 shipped, LMK.*



are they for E Codes Jared? edit: Duh"H4" 
pming you


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
On the same subject, is the up/down aiming adjustment for the headlights the one that is way at the bottom, that you need a [email protected] screwdriver to reach??



Nein mien freu
That is one of the holds for the headlight not an adjuster. Adjusters are plastic little things on the back side of the headlight Should be little white knobs


----------



## pug_nasty (Jun 17, 2009)

Thx a lot to Burninator and Dubzak. I asked a question a few pages back and your advice helped to get her running again. You guys are awesome.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (S4Bi-T)*

that hose goes to the back of the intake boot onto the line for the ISV near the silencer for the ISV. Look at the ISV Silencer box and then slightly upward to the right youll see the white male connection plugged into the tubing. 








Oh, and rip that EGR the eff out of there if yo can get away with it for emissions. 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
My McNairbq EGR Delete:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *pug_nasty* »_Thx a lot to Burninator and Dubzak. I asked a question a few pages back and your advice helped to get her running again. You guys are awesome.


No problem, glad to help out


----------



## ALLROAD VR (Jan 23, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_
that hose goes to the back of the intake boot onto the line for the ISV near the silencer for the ISV. Look at the ISV Silencer box and then slightly upward to the right youll see the white male connection plugged into the tubing. 








Oh, and rip that EGR the eff out of there if yo can get away with it for emissions. 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
My McNairbq EGR Delete:











Thanks dude.








If I take it out, would the performance improve or something?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (S4Bi-T)*

haha performance? maybe closer to normal since those things clog up with carbon from spiting exhaust back into the intake.







haha


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

k experts...question....on this flange...








I was going to utilize this on the side of the 9A head. I was going to utilize 2 of the bungs for black/blue sensors. the third one came with a plug to cap off....the outlet coming toward you would connect to my heater core....how would I block off or cap off the other outlet as coolant would be flowing through there? any thoughts...


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_if it is a 92 slc (per yer sig) the vehicle speed sensor wire goes from VSS to cluster then to spoiler control module. the RPM pickup is likely crossed/touching/etc the VSS wire (blue/white)
IIRC, the RPM pickup is red/white
i would pull the cluster out and see if there is any visible evidence of a frayed wire etc. 

Wow, many details here, Gracias!








If I remember correctly, the PO said my car is on the third gauge cluster. The Po's PO apparently put an after market cluster in, and then the PO put an OEM one back in. I'm sure the problem lies somewhere in there








Did the cluster change much from 92 to 93? I could have a 93 cluster...


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_k experts...question....on this flange...








I was going to utilize this on the side of the 9A head. I was going to utilize 2 of the bungs for black/blue sensors. the third one came with a plug to cap off....the outlet coming toward you would connect to my heater core....how would I block off or cap off the other outlet as coolant would be flowing through there? any thoughts...

 
Is that side not being used by anything ooling system related? No heater core right?


_Quote, originally posted by *chrisd1891* »_
Wow, many details here, Gracias!








If I remember correctly, the PO said my car is on the third gauge cluster. The Po's PO apparently put an after market cluster in, and then the PO put an OEM one back in. I'm sure the problem lies somewhere in there








Did the cluster change much from 92 to 93? I could have a 93 cluster...


Yes, there are differnces mostly in the faces & needles. As long as the car is a VR, you should be plug and play. I remeber seeing in the FAQ the differences, check there for sure. 

_Quote, originally posted by *pug_nasty* »_Thx a lot to Burninator and Dubzak. I asked a question a few pages back and your advice helped to get her running again. You guys are awesome.


No sweat. thanks for thanking. haha


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *chrisd1891* »_
Did the cluster change much from 92 to 93? I could have a 93 cluster...


Yes and no... it was a split year for dizzy cars.
If you car is dizzy then you have a vacuum port for calculating MPG otherwise it is electronic.
Also the Gauges changed to a different style face and needles on 93 cars regardless of engine type.


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_k experts...question....on this flange...








I was going to utilize this on the side of the 9A head. I was going to utilize 2 of the bungs for black/blue sensors. the third one came with a plug to cap off....the outlet coming toward you would connect to my heater core....how would I block off or cap off the other outlet as coolant would be flowing through there? any thoughts...

You don't need the black coolant sensor. Use the 16V sensor that is mounted on the side of the head. You need to connect only one wire up to it, I believe its yellow/red.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (dogger)*

the spot where that 2 pin sensor you're talking about was been plugged up by the dude that first worked on it with a brass set screw - and it was stripped when I got to it. There's not enough thread to try and grab with vice grip or anything. So I either use one of the two flanges I have or try and extract that screw...and that scares me bc of shavings falling in the head


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Nein mien freu
That is one of the holds for the headlight not an adjuster. Adjusters are plastic little things on the back side of the headlight Should be little white knobs

oh... Maybe I'm confused on somethin... I was talking about the "gear" type things, there's one up top and one way down low... Those aren't the adjusters?
IIRC there are no knobs on the back of my headlight housings??


_Modified by [email protected] at 8:34 AM 12-1-2009_


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

how can i get my speedo to work.. i pulled the harness off the back of the cluster yesterday and found that there was no t27 wire coming out.. that wire goes to u1/11 for the speedo.. can i just put a wire there and make it work? i have the vss connected into w/1. and for referance it is a vr swap from a 90 g60. i do have the vr guages.. also why would there be no wire there.. is it possible that this cluster harness is from a g60 cluster? or maybe an automatic....


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *g6raddo* »_how can i get my speedo to work.. i pulled the harness off the back of the cluster yesterday and found that there was no t27 wire coming out.. that wire goes to u1/11 for the speedo.. can i just put a wire there and make it work? i have the vss connected into w/1. and for referance it is a vr swap from a 90 g60. i do have the vr guages.. also why would there be no wire there.. is it possible that this cluster harness is from a g60 cluster? or maybe an automatic....


If the cluster harness is from a 90' car then it won't have a VSS wire at all. You need the cluster harness for that specific cluster


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

today's corrado issue: wiper arms. I have heard these are designed to not work well, as is the case with many other corrado systems, and it's supposed to rain for the next two days. 
I have the hovering wiper syndrome... tried regular bosch blades and the newer style Icon blades (frameless). I heard there's some mod or fix, but my SEARCH turns up nothins...
_edit:_ bent the wiper arms, tossed the icons, installed bosch excel - good to go


_Modified by [email protected] at 9:54 AM 12-3-2009_


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

anyone on the plugging of the coolant flange?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_anyone on the plugging of the coolant flange?


D, I already told you to do that a few weeks ago.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

it's been a while and too many new probs sprouting up since...remind me if you wouldn't mind


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Yes and no... it was a split year for dizzy cars.
If you car is dizzy then you have a vacuum port for calculating MPG otherwise it is electronic.
Also the Gauges changed to a different style face and needles on 93 cars regardless of engine type.


Clarification on this, my 93 dizzy does not have the vac line for MPG.


----------



## PrimaVW (Dec 22, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
nah too much stretch for my taste!








on another subject, is there a outside handle from another VW that would be compatible with the G60? The 93 and up models have a different revision letter on the end of the part number, and I could get aftermarket ones really cheap if I could just find one.
But I assume nothing else will work - cuz its a corrado









i used a passat handle, and in order for it to be locking you have to source (or use your old C handle) for the raised 2 pronged striker that engages the lock inside the door. Pull the cotter pin, take the old peice out, put the higher peice in and replace the spring and pin. good to go.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_it's been a while and too many new probs sprouting up since...remind me if you wouldn't mind


Just plug it and you should be fine.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

the question is how...with a bolt, hard rubber cap?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_the question is how...with a bolt, hard rubber cap?


Rubber cap and a clamp


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

cool...thanks bro...


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (PrimaVW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PrimaVW* »_
i used a passat handle, and in order for it to be locking you have to source (or use your old C handle) for the raised 2 pronged striker that engages the lock inside the door. Pull the cotter pin, take the old peice out, put the higher peice in and replace the spring and pin. good to go.

i actually just ordered the repair kits from Volksport! thank you for the suggestion tho


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

hey...if I want to measure to see what size my current g-lader pulley size is....what diameter do I measure?


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*

can an ignition switch going bad cause the speedometer to not work intermittently 91 g60 electric speedo. does anyone know where the ground for this located. dont think its the cluster or the sender


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *nu2dubbing* »_can an ignition switch going bad cause the speedometer to not work intermittently 91 g60 electric speedo. does anyone know where the ground for this located. dont think its the cluster or the sender


sounds like a bad vss or the cluster wiring. pull the cluster to ensure no burnt up wires and same with vss and if old replace the vss. 

_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_hey...if I want to measure to see what size my current g-lader pulley size is....what diameter do I measure?


outside diameter. in MM.


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

Also there is this Modification.
http://www.corrado-club.com/fa...ID=78
Found on this Thread:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4278605
If you are a more Pics type of person.
http://web.mac.com/thedubnutz/....html


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR*

Bump:
NOOBS,WE BEG YOU PLEAZE post here please instead of starting a new thread ESPECIALLY if you refuse to search.
KTHNKBYE, 
The Experst.







haha inentional mispell.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_Bump:
NOOBS,WE BEG YOU PLEAZE post here please instead of starting a new thread ESPECIALLY if you refuse to search.
KTHNKBYE, 
The Experst.







haha inentional mispell.


OH HAI! I forgot how to search, can you teach me?


----------



## ALLROAD VR (Jan 23, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Are the MK3.5 Cabrio chrome door handles the same as the newer style Corrado inner door handles? Hence, can they fit?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

yeah they will fit. They will fit older style too you just have to swap the cup out


----------



## turbonegro (Sep 4, 2006)

ok i hope this hasnt been asked yet because my search isnt working.....i have a 1990 g60less corrado and have been having a high idle problem since before i blew the charger. when it warms up it idles at 3000 and i replaced the isv and the blue temp sensor. when i plug in the isv (with everything off of course) and start it back up the idle goes crazy high so i have been driving with it unplugged. and when i unplug the blue temp sensor the car idles fine....but if its unplugged the car wont start....please help meeeeee


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: (turbonegro)*

no charger? that sucks, but you need to locate the isv adjustment and use the alen key you adjust it. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4267919
next time use the archives for search.


----------



## turbonegro (Sep 4, 2006)

it has nothing to do with the blue temp sensor?


----------



## Jow wow (Oct 15, 2008)

*Re: (turbonegro)*

i have a 92 vrt (kinetic stg 1, c2 30#) that died randomly after 60 miles of cruising over thanksgiving weekend. it started again drove 1/2 mile and died again. 
what i need help understanding is what are the symptoms of a bad coil(ICM) vs. a bad RPM sensor vs. a bad ecm? 
i have put ~10k miles since going turbo. i have checked some things and seem to be getting fuel but no spark. so far i have replaced ECU relay and ig. switch. im thinking its the coil (or more specifically the ICM part of it), but could use a little more insight before i start throwin even more money at her.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jow wow* »_i have a 92 vrt (kinetic stg 1, c2 30#) that died randomly after 60 miles of cruising over thanksgiving weekend. it started again drove 1/2 mile and died again. 
what i need help understanding is what are the symptoms of a bad coil(ICM) vs. a bad RPM sensor vs. a bad ecm? 
i have put ~10k miles since going turbo. i have checked some things and seem to be getting fuel but no spark. so far i have replaced ECU relay and ig. switch. im thinking its the coil (or more specifically the ICM part of it), but could use a little more insight before i start throwin even more money at her.










Generally ICM's don't go bad. The coils will crack before the ICM decides to die. Have you checked for spark signal at the plug that goes into the coilpack? If you are getting signal it is the coilpack if not then it is either ECU or wiring.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *turbonegro* »_it has nothing to do with the blue temp sensor?


Doubt it. It sounds like it is working actually. You should adjust your ignition timing properly and then adjust your idle with the idle screw. Remember warm the car up then unplug the blue coolant temp sensor with the car running and then adjust timing to 6-8 degrees BTDC (the big mark on the flywheel) then plug sensor back in. Car has to be running the whole time and when setting timing it needs to be done at around 1500-2000 RPMS


----------



## Mudkicker_1 (Jan 19, 2005)

*Re: Rubber thing under spoiler*

Hi,
Where can i find the two rubber things that are glued on the underside of the wing? Dealer told me that he cannot get them.
Does anyone have any extras?
thanks


----------



## Mudkicker_1 (Jan 19, 2005)

*Re: Red tails*

Hi,
What is my best option for having Red Tails? What yields the best results?
thanks


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Mudkicker_1* »_Hi,
Where can i find the two rubber things that are glued on the underside of the wing? Dealer told me that he cannot get them.
Does anyone have any extras?
thanks


Yeah they are NLA... Maybe a hardware store will have something similar that is the same height


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Mudkicker_1* »_Hi,
What is my best option for having Red Tails? What yields the best results?
thanks


Personally I use overlays. They came out damn near perfect and are completely reversible. Other people like using candy apply red testors paint. You can also have clear coat tinted to a red and have them professionally sprayed.
Here are the overlays that I used:








http://www.empiregfx.com/shop/home.php


----------



## Mudkicker_1 (Jan 19, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Yeah they are NLA... Maybe a hardware store will have something similar that is the same height

what are the chances of finding it at the scrap yard? I havent seen a Corrado in the scrap yard for many years.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Mudkicker_1* »_
what are the chances of finding it at the scrap yard? I havent seen a Corrado in the scrap yard for many years.


You may want to give EPP a try for them. or ARZtuning.


----------



## ALLROAD VR (Jan 23, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

I'm here again.








Anyone got the RIGHT part number for a '93 VR cluster bulb? 
I've been to 2 dealerships and they both gave me MK3 cluster bulbs!


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

hello. i have an obd2 harness, ecu and all the stuff from a 96 passat vr6 auto that i want to use on my 93 dizzy obd1 manual corrado as a swap/upgrade. i have seen most say that a manual harness and ecu would be the way to go.as i already have the above mentioned, will it work for a swap?


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: (angelod307)*

gotta question guys....
I have omitted my coolant expansion tank in lieu of a moroso filler neck, etc.. the filler neck has that nipple on it...and currently, the plan is to run a hose from the neck out to atmosphere. The question is, should I maybe try and run it to some sort of expansion tank? Otherwise, will I have to be topping off coolant all the time?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *STI VR* »_I'm here again.








Anyone got the RIGHT part number for a '93 VR cluster bulb? 
I've been to 2 dealerships and they both gave me MK3 cluster bulbs!










357919243B

_Quote, originally posted by *angelod307* »_hello. i have an obd2 harness, ecu and all the stuff from a 96 passat vr6 auto that i want to use on my 93 dizzy obd1 manual corrado as a swap/upgrade. i have seen most say that a manual harness and ecu would be the way to go.as i already have the above mentioned, will it work for a swap?


Lots of extra wiring for the auto trans, but you can remove it. Do your self a favor and pick up a bentley for a passat and one for a corrado


----------



## ALLROAD VR (Jan 23, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *STI VR* »_I'm here again.








Anyone got the RIGHT part number for a '93 VR cluster bulb? 
I've been to 2 dealerships and they both gave me MK3 cluster bulbs!










_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
357919243B


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (STI VR)*

I did the striker replacements from Volksworks Audimotive - great success!
I can get into the passenger side of the car again! Did the drivers side too (before it breaks!)
205-45-16 tires have arrived as well (I know, I'm a wussie) and should get mounted up verrry soon!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
205-45-16 tires have arrived as well (I know, I'm a wussie) and should get mounted up verrry soon!


Fine you can have balloon tires on the corrado but the Caddy project better get something with stupid stretch. I don't car that you have a 1.8t with a GT28 on it! NEEDS STRETCH!


----------



## Gawd (Nov 3, 2004)

*Re: (dpgreek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_gotta question guys....
I have omitted my coolant expansion tank in lieu of a moroso filler neck, etc.. the filler neck has that nipple on it...and currently, the plan is to run a hose from the neck out to atmosphere. The question is, should I maybe try and run it to some sort of expansion tank? Otherwise, will I have to be topping off coolant all the time?

I have mine setup to dump to atmosphere and it has never opened up. So I would say make a container if you don't want it to dump on the ground incase something goes wrong, or just don't worry as it shouldn't dump out unless something goes wrong.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Gawd* »_
I have mine setup to dump to atmosphere and it has never opened up. So I would say make a container if you don't want it to dump on the ground incase something goes wrong, or just don't worry as it shouldn't dump out unless something goes wrong.



Leave it dump to the ground. Unless you are at the track you don't need an overflow container


----------



## Cor32rado (Jun 5, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Personally I use overlays. They came out damn near perfect and are completely reversible. Other people like using candy apply red testors paint. You can also have clear coat tinted to a red and have them professionally sprayed.
Here are the overlays that I used:








http://www.empiregfx.com/shop/home.php

I used testors Candy Grape as recommended by someone in this thread i created. I am going to wetsand and spray clear on them this weekend, and if I remember my camera i can snap a few pics for you. So far the candy grape was a great match (on top of the amber)

_Modified by Cor32rado at 10:18 AM 12-10-2009_


_Modified by Cor32rado at 10:19 AM 12-10-2009_


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

*Re: (angelod307)*


_Quote, originally posted by *angelod307* »_hello. i have an obd2 harness, ecu and all the stuff from a 96 passat vr6 auto that i want to use on my 93 dizzy obd1 manual corrado as a swap/upgrade. i have seen most say that a manual harness and ecu would be the way to go.as i already have the above mentioned, will it work for a swap?

Lots of extra wiring for the auto trans, but you can remove it. Do your self a favor and pick up a bentley for a passat and one for a corrado
ok. i have the corrado bentley on hand. i also got the corrado online in pdf. does the passat have an online pdf link as well that anyone know of?
also, why remove the extra wires? cant they just be left there and tied back?


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

*Re: (angelod307)*

oh yeah, will the ecu from the auto still work ok in the my corrado with a manual in the swap as well?
thanks again, angelo


----------



## Feature5 (Oct 10, 2005)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

heres a question...








5 years ago my brother gave me his 98 gti, it was totalled when someone tboned me http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 1 year later i found my dream car which was/is the illustrious corrado, bought a 90 g60 and it was stolen not more than 45 mins after i picked it up by some dirty canadians







and it was never to be seen again... i took it as an omen and didnt buy a car but put the money into my college education like a good boy.
long story made somewhat short....
should i buy this car? i wont have any facilities whatsoever to work on the car nor the skill for that matter, the most i have going is my undying love for the most beautiful looking and fun driving cars ive ever had the pleasure of knowing
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4674991
i would of course get some new wheels pronto, steelies probably since im all about the oem aesthetic


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Feature5)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Feature5* »_heres a question...








5 years ago my brother gave me his 98 gti, it was totalled when someone tboned me http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 1 year later i found my dream car which was/is the illustrious corrado, bought a 90 g60 and it was stolen not more than 45 mins after i picked it up by some dirty canadians







and it was never to be seen again... i took it as an omen and didnt buy a car but put the money into my college education like a good boy.
long story made somewhat short....
should i buy this car? i wont have any facilities whatsoever to work on the car nor the skill for that matter, the most i have going is my undying love for the most beautiful looking and fun driving cars ive ever had the pleasure of knowing
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4674991
i would of course get some new wheels pronto, steelies probably since im all about the oem aesthetic

well, sucks about your experience. But i can say that if you are going to get a Corrado, one that has been swapped to a manual would NOT be on my list, but would not necesarily be a bad move. He did not state if he used a correct CDM coded Corrado transmission either. He may have used the mk3 CCM coded box which is nice if your turbo'd, but NOT oem for the Corrado or the Corrado Experience. The CDM box has a more agressive R&P.
I would prefer a more oem car myself, and hate to say it Steelies are not OEM, BBS RZ or Speedline for SLC's. RZ's and Seebrings for the G cars. 
That guy has owned a few Corrado's so i'm not sure it would be a bad move, but he did get smart with me over some dumb s**t, I never forget a d-bag when I meet one. Biased LOL!!!
AC and Sunroof are no bueno, or at least he says try at your own risk?!?!? If you need an evaporator, and or any other AC repairs your looking at a lot in labor for AC maintainence.
pushing the cost of wnership to all time highs, not worth the $5500 imo. 
My personal exerience, was a 93, w 126k 4k. this was 3 years ago and the market hasnt been up so I would state that as a reasonable starting point. 
People fail to remember, you dont get out what you put in. So if you are going to own a Corrado, you must come to terms with either dumping money into it knowing you are taking a loss, or never sell it and go wild. 
Good luck to you.


----------



## Cor32rado (Jun 5, 2006)

*02A LSD DIY writeup*

Does anyone have the full writeup for installation of an LSD into an 02A Tranny? I found this writeup but since it is almost 4 years old all the pictures are down. There is a link to download this and many more DIY's but that is down too. Does anyone have this writeup with pics, or a similar one? 
Thanks in Advance


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*

that write up is not bad at all even wthout pics. 
If you are not experienced with transmission rebuilds and cannot make out the intall instuctions and or are missing any of the tools listed in that write up, I would seek professional assistance with the install.


----------



## Jow wow (Oct 15, 2008)

*Re: (Jow wow)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jow wow* »_i have a 92 vrt (kinetic stg 1, c2 30#) that died randomly after 60 miles of cruising over thanksgiving weekend. it started again drove 1/2 mile and died again. 
what i need help understanding is what are the symptoms of a bad coil(ICM) vs. a bad RPM sensor vs. a bad ecm? 
i have put ~10k miles since going turbo. i have checked some things and seem to be getting fuel but no spark. so far i have replaced ECU relay and ig. switch. im thinking its the coil (or more specifically the ICM part of it), but could use a little more insight before i start throwin even more money at her.









Just thought i would update. i ordered a new coil from GAP, installed and fired right up and even feels a little smoother through the revs.
I noticed however, before getting this coil through GAP i tried to get one locally and they tried to sell me this one i think?
http://www.germanautoparts.com.../57/2 second and third down
This is the one i ordered from GAP (which also turned out to be Huco, not Bosch like it looks in the picture) because i didnt feel right about the above one. http://www.germanautoparts.com.../57/3 
Could i have saved money and used the g60 one?



_Modified by Jow wow at 4:35 AM 12-14-2009_


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: (Jow wow)*

got two questions today for the experts...
1. I have a duostyling air/fuel gauge....has three wires coming from it and is supposed to wire into 02 sensor harness. Is this a bad idea? I'm getting the suggestion to go with wideband, but don't know if that's feasible at this point.
2. my drivers rear caliper plunger has a little play in it. So I can't really get it to lock up and keep the wheel from spinning when I try and adjust the ebrake...any ideas or suggestions as to what could be wrong?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jow wow* »_
Could i have saved money and used the g60 one?


No, the G60 one doesn't have an ICM on it at all.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

I put the drivers side handle back in tonight, but now the lock cylinder is very loose, there is almost no spring resistance when I turn it with the key to lock / unlock. There is a "collar" (circled on the pass side handle pic) on the pass side that appears to be missing from the driver's side. It wasn't there before, and it didn't come off during the striker repair. Thoughts?
Passenger:








Driver:








anyone?


_Modified by [email protected] at 10:08 AM 12-16-2009_


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

hello...? where'd everyone go?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_hello...? where'd everyone go?









lol. mexico. Seriously.








it look as the clip is not fastened. pull it off and reinsert it closer to the base of the lock cylinder. That should tighten things up.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_
lol. mexico. Seriously.








it look as the clip is not fastened. pull it off and reinsert it closer to the base of the lock cylinder. That should tighten things up. 


what clip? theres a retainer on the pass side (i circled it in the 1st pic) is that the one you mean? Cuz for some reason there isn't even one on the driver side.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

anyone on the MKIV ebrake prob I'm having? Even more importantly....I'm dying to see about this stupid bushing that I'm supposedly missing on the shifter mechanism on top of the tranny. I have the old style....on my 02A. Lot of slop in the mechanism after being bolted up. Some people snapped a few pics...but I need some pix possibly really close up and at diff angles....I'm lost as to what's missing


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
what clip? theres a retainer on the pass side (i circled it in the 1st pic) is that the one you mean? Cuz for some reason there isn't even one on the driver side.

Yes that clip.
there should be a clip holding the cylinder on both?!?!?!?







Ill have to dig out my handles with locks when im done. 
well, ill be out of work for a while. get a list of what needs attending to and lets see if i can make a trip to assist!!!! 
I return to the us on the 21st. My cams and other goodies arrive by the 22nd.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*

dim, whats the issues with each? 
Brakes:
Shift Linkage: 
sorry if i missed it.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

brakes...
Trying to adjust the ebrake. On the drivers rear caliper where the plunger holds the ebrake cable is not engaging too much...it's very sloppy and we think it's a caliper issue. I can only get one click out of the ebrake handle. The passenger side locks great. The drivers....wheel spins no matter what.
shift linkage...
Got is all bolted up...but its wobbly. My bud Miguel seems to think I'm missing a bushing or two in there to keep it steady. thread below might help...maybe it's #13 on ETKA diagram?
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4642431
thanks bro


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

the ebrake adjusted inside too?
the calipers on the right sides?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_
Yes that clip.
there should be a clip holding the cylinder on both?!?!?!?







Ill have to dig out my handles with locks when im done. 


yeah it appears the driver side clip is gone. maybe it broke off from being made of cheap pot metal, but it aint there. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
yeah it appears the driver side clip is gone. maybe it broke off from being made of cheap pot metal, but it aint there. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 


check inside your door for it lol


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
check inside your door for it lol

good idea lol
except if its down there, it be broke. It cant just fall off if it isnt broke, so im confused. Before I did the striker fix, it was fine. Now the lock cylinder is loose and offers no resistance when I turn the key. Like I said it looks like that retainer is gone, but it didn't fall off or anything during the upgrade...??
So basically I need to find one of those retainers, take the handle apart and get one on there if I want it to "feel" right, eh?


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_the ebrake adjusted inside too?
the calipers on the right sides?

We've sort of adjusted the ebrake on the inside - one to two clicks and it's set....
it's the rear driver's side caliper. The rear passengers is just fine


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_
We've sort of adjusted the ebrake on the inside - one to two clicks and it's set....
it's the rear driver's side caliper. The rear passengers is just fine


is the bracket that holds the ebrake cable on the caliper bent?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_
shift linkage...
Got is all bolted up...but its wobbly. My bud Miguel seems to think I'm missing a bushing or two in there to keep it steady. thread below might help...maybe it's #13 on ETKA diagram?
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4642431
thanks bro

if yourt linkage is all in place and you still suffer from a sloppy shifter, check the bushings on the shifter box first. 
If they are all good, I have bad news......shifter selector housing on the actual trans may be bad.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

bracket holding the ebrake cable seems to be ok. it's like the plunger is loose or something?
as for shifter: shifter itself isn't sloppy...just where the linkage is. The shifter selector housing....per my etka link...what are you referring to?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*









the actual item circled in blue is the selector housing. The top of that piece is the reverse light trigger. 
this item the lower portion, has a bushing on the inside. that gets sloppy as it wears. Causing a gear grind or missed shift. 
Double check for all linkage pieces and bushings. If they are there, then your selector is a main culprit. 
Have you tried to get all gears with the current shift alignment? 
check out the Verdict Motorsports shifter bushings.


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

selector housing seems to be fine. I updated pieces 19, 32, 21, 22, 23, 20 from dealership..so those are new. I think the verdict piece you're referring to is 13? That maybe missing


----------



## Wirbelsturm.VW (Sep 24, 2007)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

Noobercorn...(Mike) Do you ever think you will sell your Corrado?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Wirbelsturm.VW* »_Noobercorn...(Mike) Do you ever think you will sell your Corrado?










its up for sale right now


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

bump


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

gotta get my aftermarket steering wheel hub onto the spline. I think my spline is a little rusty cruddy... Only way it seems to go on is if I hammer it down. Any tips?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_gotta get my aftermarket steering wheel hub onto the spline. I think my spline is a little rusty cruddy... Only way it seems to go on is if I hammer it down. Any tips? 


Steal wool the hell out of the splines then lube em up with some anti sieze or similar to prevent any more rusting.
OR hit it harder with a larger hammer


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

I think I'll go with option 1


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_I think I'll go with option 1


option 2 is much more stress relieving


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
option 2 is much more stress relieving 

Until you find out the seller sent you the wrong hub. Been there done that, still have a wheel with no useful hub.








A wire brush is also useful to clean the hub. Some times the rust build up on a spine such as a wheel hub can be a bit much for a brush, so you can always order some Triangle files from McMaster-Carr. Useful to have when working on old cars when you some time just need to fix up an axle thread.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Until you find out the seller sent you the wrong hub. Been there done that, still have a wheel with no useful hub.








A wire brush is also useful to clean the hub. Some times the rust build up on a spine such as a wheel hub can be a bit much for a brush, so you can always order some Triangle files from McMaster-Carr. Useful to have when working on old cars when you some time just need to fix up an axle thread. 


IE small VW steering wheel hub?
Good call on the wire brush and the file.. Damn machinist think up all the good tools


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Anybody knowledgeable in engine rebuilds? How much am I looking at for a basic rebuild of the bottom end on my VR6? Nothing fancy for FI.


_Modified by iAco at 9:41 PM 12-27-2009_


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (iAco)*

happy new year to all you guys - thanks for all your corrado expertise this year! See you in 2010!


----------



## WAKIZASPEED (Jun 29, 2009)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

I just bought a 90 G60 and the drivers door has to be slammed pretty hard to close all the way. Everything looks like it lines up fine. I don't want to replace parts I don't need. I don't know if there is a way to clean/adjust the latch. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (WAKIZASPEED)*

All you probably need is a new door striker pin. The bushing on the pin gets worn out and then the door bounces if you don't slam it. I just replaced mine in 10 minutes, and they're cheap!
$8 plus shipping PM me.










_Modified by [email protected] at 4:37 PM 12-31-2009_


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
IE small VW steering wheel hub?
Good call on the wire brush and the file.. Damn machinist think up all the good tools









I think so Kyle, I ended up scrapping the hub and selling the wheel just the other day. Going to an OMP unit to replace the Momo that currently is in the car. The vendor swore it was the right one so I sent him pictures, refused to provide the proper one, only a refund. 
Any progress with your rado since we chatted @ H2O?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Any progress with your rado since we chatted @ H2O? 


I have made a bit of progress. All body work stuff though. I can't wait to actually start putting an engine in the car and to see those brakes behind my wheels








Any changes on your car?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
I have made a bit of progress. All body work stuff though. I can't wait to actually start putting an engine in the car and to see those brakes behind my wheels








Any changes on your car?

Got a new engine ready to go in. Just have to make some new charger brackets and get a new impeller upgrade for the hybrid blower. Looks like the first and second week of March I will toss everything together and tune the car. Then its off to do some track days this summer.
You can check out the build thread on Herby's53, quite a few pages now.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Got a new engine ready to go in. Just have to make some new charger brackets and get a new impeller upgrade for the hybrid blower. Looks like the first and second week of March I will toss everything together and tune the car. Then its off to do some track days this summer.
You can check out the build thread on Herby's53, quite a few pages now.


Just read the whole build. Good stuff man!


----------



## WAKIZASPEED (Jun 29, 2009)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

Just bought a corrado with a BBM twinscrew and silencer installed by the PO. It no longer has an ISV. Is that normal with the silencer kit? It does not want to idle when its cold. Once its warmed up it runs fine. I am also going to try and get the a/c going again. I think I would need the ISV for that as well. Thanks in advance for any help you guys can give.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (WAKIZASPEED)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WAKIZASPEED* »_Just bought a corrado with a BBM twinscrew and silencer installed by the PO. It no longer has an ISV. Is that normal with the silencer kit? It does not want to idle when its cold. Once its warmed up it runs fine. I am also going to try and get the a/c going again. I think I would need the ISV for that as well. Thanks in advance for any help you guys can give. 

not sure if the ISV is typically eliminated with that kit, but I'd be willing to guess that when you turn on the a/c, your idle is going to drop too low. You either have to compensate by raising your idle or getting the isv back in there. Ask Burninator for his opinion on this one too.


----------



## cstanley19 (Sep 23, 2006)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start ... ([email protected])*

Anyone have pictures of relocated powersteering reservoirs near the headlight?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *cstanley19* »_Anyone have pictures of relocated powersteering reservoirs near the headlight?


Im too lazy to actually find the thread but dogger's build thread will have a pic of this.


----------



## cstanley19 (Sep 23, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

thanks Kyle, I'll look for it.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *cstanley19* »_thanks Kyle, I'll look for it.


He t-ed it from the cooler line that runs up front BTW


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR*

sup yall....took a lil hiatus. 
and for the new guys...please again post random questions here rather than new threads if either a) search doesnt work.
b) your too lazy or other to use it.
and 
c)








thnx for your cooperation. 
If we missed your question, please repost it.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

I think I gave WAZIKASPEED a good answer re his ISV a few posts back... any second opinions?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_I think I gave WAZIKASPEED a good answer re his ISV a few posts back... any second opinions?


I agree partially.
It sounds like he needs to adjust his idle if he keeps the ISV removed. When the AC comes on it wont drop more than 100 rpm.
If the ISV goes back on I would still adjust the idle because it is probably a bit low


----------



## WAKIZASPEED (Jun 29, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
I agree partially.
It sounds like he needs to adjust his idle if he keeps the ISV removed. When the AC comes on it wont drop more than 100 rpm.
If the ISV goes back on I would still adjust the idle because it is probably a bit low

It will not run when its cold without me giving it throttle. Once its warmed up it runs fine. If I adjust the idle up once it gets warm it would be way too high. I was curious if removing the ISV was common on silenced bbm s/c kits. I also thought about taking the intake pipe and welding a port and hooking one back up. (If it would work with the silencer setup)
Thanks


----------



## eurotrashmax (May 9, 2006)

92 SLC with Dizzy 
201+K 5spd
I've owned this car for 4+ years
Only mods are a cold air intake and TT SS header.
Current issue:
Just had the transmission rebuilt a month ago got the car all put back together last week. However, the car takes forever to start and it will turn over and run but after shutting it off it won't start back up and i'll run the battery dead its like it has no spark or no fuel.
If i wait a while it will start up again eventually but again it takes a minute of cranking for it turns over and when you turn it off it does the same thing again where it wont start at all. I did a fuel pressure check it was at 50 PSI while running, then i tested the FPR by pulling the vac line off it and it went up to 60PSI which is normal. The residual pressure test was normal as well it stay at 60PSI while the car was off past 10 minutes. 
I also drained some fuel out and collected to check for water but no water whatsoever. 
What else can i start checking is the coil going bad? is the dizzy messed up? prior to dropping the motor in i checked the hall sensor wires and they are all fine and not broke or cracked. i got spark when i pull the coil wire off and ground it to something. 
Any advice would really help.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: (eurotrashmax)*

you already verified its not the coil. check the wires themselves. Inspect for any breaks in the silocone outer sleeve.
IF it runs sometimes and is hard to start, how are your intake tubes? any cracks or splits will result in your MAF misreading the amount of air and cause funny running. 
Also check all of your ISV routing and hoses. If there are leaks this also would cause hard starting and stalling. 
If you have spark, and you have fuel, no leaks in the intake or vaccum, the only items left would be the Dizzy itself, or ecm. Remove and check your ecm relay, also do the same for the fuel pump relay just in case. If those are fine, I would see if a spare ecm will make the car run. 
Good luck, let us know what you find.


----------



## eurotrashmax (May 9, 2006)

*Re: (DUBZAK)*

thanks i'll look into that i do have a spare working ecu to try at least and i'll inspect the hoses and everything i can do that for tonight i have another car i can get parts from to at least swap and check various components with but i can't get to those till this weekend but at least i can try this stuff for now thanks again. I'll let you know what i find.


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## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

Ok this is probably a stupid terminology question, but I haven't found a straight forward answer.
What are people talking about when they say "standalone" typically referring to a turbo setup?


----------



## skaterazn (Jan 9, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *chrisd1891* »_Ok this is probably a stupid terminology question, but I haven't found a straight forward answer.
What are people talking about when they say "standalone" typically referring to a turbo setup? 



engine management


----------



## WAKIZASPEED (Jun 29, 2009)

*Re: (chrisd1891)*


_Quote, originally posted by *chrisd1891* »_Ok this is probably a stupid terminology question, but I haven't found a straight forward answer.
What are people talking about when they say "standalone" typically referring to a turbo setup? 


A stand alone is an ecu that is separate from your cars stock ecu. A standalone ecu lets you build new ignition cam angle and ignition maps for your car, starting from scratch. This is a basic definition without going into too much detail. 
Hope that helps


_Modified by WAKIZASPEED at 11:33 AM 1-5-2010_


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

stand alone engine management. such as Motec, Megasquirt, 034EFI, etc etc etc
Full control over the engine as far as maps go.


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

*Re: (WAKIZASPEED)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WAKIZASPEED* »_
A stand alone is an ecu that is separate from your cars stock ecu. A standalone ecu lets you build new ignition cam angle and ignition maps for your car, starting from scratch. This is a basic definition without going into too much detail. 
Hope that helps

_Modified by WAKIZASPEED at 11:33 AM 1-5-2010_


Thanks! Do you run something like megasquirt in addition to your stock ECU or does it replace the old one?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *chrisd1891* »_

Thanks! Do you run something like megasquirt in addition to your stock ECU or does it replace the old one? 


it is a replacement. new harness or adapter harness is needed. PM me if you want some info.


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## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
it is a replacement. new harness or adapter harness is needed. PM me if you want some info.

Alright. While I'd love for my car to produce over 9000 hp....it'll be a daily...so it just wouldn't make much sense.








Maybe one day....


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *chrisd1891* »_
Alright. While I'd love for my car to produce over 9000 hp....it'll be a daily...so it just wouldn't make much sense.








Maybe one day....


I daily my mk1 on standalone...


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## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
I daily my mk1 on standalone... 

Intriguing. 
Need to do an engine rebuild first :/


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (chrisd1891)*

Hey guys - just a heads up ECS has the red/clear FK tails for corrado on clearance for $169.95: http://www.ecstuning.com/Flyer...S9484/


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Hey guys - just a heads up ECS has the red/clear FK tails for corrado on clearance for $169.95: http://www.ecstuning.com/Flyer...S9484/


Thats a decent price for em


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Experts: what the hell is this foreign icy substance all over my car this morning? Has anyone experienced this?
Temps were in the low 30's this morning, maybe a connection there?


















_Modified by [email protected] at 1:25 PM 1-6-2010_


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Experts: what the hell is this foreign icy substance all over my car this morning? Has anyone experienced this?
Temps were in the low 30's this morning, maybe a connection there?


















OH I know this one all too well!
What you are experiencing is known as the el-nino effect.


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
OH I know this one all too well!
What you are experiencing is known as the el-nino effect. 

hmmm can't find that in SEARCH or Alldata...


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
hmmm can't find that in SEARCH or Alldata...










You must have the down south edition of SEARCH and Alldata


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*

haha @ Jared.


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_haha @ Jared. 

i see you got yourself an 80 rocco... congrats now take all your problems to the scirocco ask the experts thread


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
i see you got yourself an 80 rocco... congrats now take all your problems to the scirocco ask the experts thread










I hear the scirocco guys are all old and huff too much paint


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*

That Rocco is kind of hurt....might get parted out...and worth what I paid for the single wiper set up alone......


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## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

*Re: (eurotrashmax)*


_Quote, originally posted by *eurotrashmax* »_92 SLC with Dizzy 
201+K 5spd
I've owned this car for 4+ years
Only mods are a cold air intake and TT SS header.
Current issue:
Just had the transmission rebuilt a month ago got the car all put back together last week. However, the car takes forever to start and it will turn over and run but after shutting it off it won't start back up and i'll run the battery dead its like it has no spark or no fuel.
If i wait a while it will start up again eventually but again it takes a minute of cranking for it turns over and when you turn it off it does the same thing again where it wont start at all. I did a fuel pressure check it was at 50 PSI while running, then i tested the FPR by pulling the vac line off it and it went up to 60PSI which is normal. The residual pressure test was normal as well it stay at 60PSI while the car was off past 10 minutes. 
I also drained some fuel out and collected to check for water but no water whatsoever. 
What else can i start checking is the coil going bad? is the dizzy messed up? prior to dropping the motor in i checked the hall sensor wires and they are all fine and not broke or cracked. i got spark when i pull the coil wire off and ground it to something. 
Any advice would really help. 


this is a reply to a similar situation in my 86 z24. every now and again the motor fouls out the plugs when i am trying to start it back up. in my case, i pull the ecu/fuel injector fuse, turn the motor over, it busts of for a moment then dies again. i put the fuse back in after the excess fuel is burned/run out of the cylinders, and the car starts no problem. just something to try if you can remove the ecu/ign fuse easy like and can still make the motor turn over. for diagnosis purposes that is.


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

*Re: (angelod307)*

You can pull the fuel pump fuse.


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## eurotrashmax (May 9, 2006)

*Re: (angelod307)*

Well i went through all my connections and checked everything on the advice i was given. I didn't see anything other then the one of the is that the hall sensor on the dizzy the plastic is broke that would allow it to sit in the dizzy housing that was hanging down and one of the wires leading to my o2 sensor was hanging by a thread of a wire which i broke off and resolder together. 
My engine wiring harness is pretty aged i know at some point i should replace that. But after all that i went ahead and swapped ecu's and it fired right up and after shutting it off it fired up again which it wasn't doing in the first place. But just to be sure i swapped back the old one in and it still fired up fine. So i'm confused on that but maybe i nailed the problem when i checked everything out. It also runs way better feels like i got my power back.


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## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: (eurotrashmax)*

eurotrashmax
Could be a bad connection causing high resistance from heat after you had it running.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*

the hall sender on the dizzy is a concern, but vwscream said it best. resistance after it warms up might be causing a lot of issues. Unshielded/exposed wires are what you would need to repair asap. 
Good luck.


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## eurotrashmax (May 9, 2006)

i can agree with that but it would hard start even it had been left alone for several days. So did i have an airleak in the intake boot? 
I did take all that back off and made sure that hose from the isv went into the boot maybe that wasn't in all the way? I'm not sure, i'm happy it runs now until something else comes up. 
I'll have to source a good engine harness its not so much i have exposed wires but its more of where the connectors meet the wiring some of the insulation is cracked on a few of the connectors.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: (eurotrashmax)*

Sounds like you ether had a loose connection to the isv or a leak in the boot somewhere. 
Sometimes its good to check all the connections and pull off the old crumbled wrap, replace it with 3m friction tape. Do NOT use electrical tape on the harness. Ever. 
Use of connectors to repair wiring is actually taught to factory techs (at least the one I learned from) versus soldering. Your choice though, and if you do get solder slag, it can cause interference. Very Bad. 
When I say exposed wires, this usually means the core inside is showing.
Find the breaks in the wiring, fix them, re wrap. done. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## eurotrashmax (May 9, 2006)

*Re: (DUBZAK)*

will do thank you very much for the help. I'd buy you a beer if it were possible.


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## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_Sometimes its good to check all the connections and pull off the old crumbled wrap, replace it with 3m friction tape. Do NOT use electrical tape on the harness. Ever. 
Use of connectors to repair wiring is actually taught to factory techs versus soldering.

Number of automotive manufacturers apply this practice during technician training sessions. But as we all know some times the job is not done right with the butt connectors. Number of times I been told by field service engineers visiting dealerships that techs have been using non weather resistant connectors on vehicles. When you get connectors make sure when working on outside of cabin wiring to use heat shrink connectors. Good luck


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## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

Hey I have a question about Vag-com....for an OBDI car, I know I need some other special adapter...but I've been searching and searching, on the Ross-tech website and on Vortex (but the search sucks) and I'm still wondering what do I need to buy for my OBDI vr6....and that being said, this is all assuming it's a pretty essential tool, is that correct?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: (chrisd1891)*

you need the Ross Tech obd1 adapter. They have it, but may not avertise it. 
Send them an email, they will reply. 
It can be essential, but I have no CEL in my car to worry about.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: (DUBZAK)*

Bottom of the page the 2x2 adapter
http://www.vadmobile.com/products.htm
its 30 bucks


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

*Re: (TheBurninator)*

Ok, i have a question (maybe its stupid







)... but how do you align the taillights so they "sit" even (outer part and inner part of lights). Pictures of what i have to adjust would be very helpful


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: (RedYellowWhite)*

you need to enlarge the holes that the taillight bolts to. Sorry no pics my car isn't anywhere near me.


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## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: (TheBurninator)*

Experts...been trying for a while now, STILL NO STARTING CAR.
We first checked injectors by rigging up a mock fuel rail with good injector harness, fuel rail, air pressure and fuel. The injectors worked great. No problems there. They sprayed well and evenly. We put them back into my rail, hooked it all up...and I have power to all injectors, they all squirt (which we tested by shooting into individual cups by manually rotating the dizzy rotor). Checked send and return...Fuel system works.
What we found today as a definite problem is that the autotech wire that had to get the MSD connector put on, wasn't a good connection and was not getting any voltage. When we tested my buddy's G60 coil wire and it showed 70V while cranking over. Mine showed a 0 (BUT it still gave spark to injector wires...as if it were jumping). We pulled the elbow off from the MSD connector and tested and found out it was a dud. So I need to replace that. BUT, we put the good G60 wire on my coil / dizzy set up, tested, and got 70V....but still no start though it was getting the voltage it needed. Don't think it's a spark issue.
Finally we ran compression tests ALL day. When we first did a test, each cylinder showed 30 psi. WAY too low. After adding some oil intermittently and starting fluid, pulling spark plugs, cleaning, drying, etc... We got different variances between 160 - 60. At the end of the night, after letting it sit it finally got:
cylinder 1 = 120 psi
cylinder 2 - 60 psi
cylinder 3 -60 psi
cylinder 4 = 90 psi
Obviously, compression is farked somewhere. We've deduced that it's either:
farked piston rings, the double stacked head gasket, or maybe valve seats/guides. My bud is coming over tomorrow for a leak down test to see what it could be. So we're kind of at a loss right now as to WTF is the problem. Anyone?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_the double stacked head gasket,


This is where I would start. Are they the fiber gaskets?
There is no way you fahked a ring if it didnt fire, unless one was damaged upon assembly. 
Hope you get it figured out.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Wait D, your running a double stacked gasket? did you remember to remove the rivets on both gaskets before stacking them?


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

it was the metal ABA gasket IIRC. I didn't install it.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dpgreek* »_it was the metal ABA gasket IIRC. I didn't install it. 


You can see the part of the head gasket that is normally riveted. It should be on the front of the block.
If you see rivets on the gasket itself then I will bet that is at least part of the issue


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

also if the headbolts aren't torqued all the way or properly that would be something to look into also.


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## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

Righto, I have another question








So it's the black temp sender that sends to the cluster, and the blue one to the ECU? My temp gauge doesn't work, so my first guess would be the sender, so I'll just need a new black one? Or do I need to try to do the calibration thing on the temperature needle? Some people said they had success with that, and some didn't...

_Modified by chrisd1891 at 12:03 PM 1-12-2010_


_Modified by chrisd1891 at 12:03 PM 1-12-2010_


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *chrisd1891* »_Righto, I have another question








So it's the black temp sender that sends to the cluster, and the blue one to the ECU? My temp gauge doesn't work, so my first guess would be the sender, so I'll just need a new black one? Or do I need to try to do the calibration thing on the temperature needle? Some people said they had success with that, and some didn't...


has your cluster ever been apart?
I would try the temp sensor first personally. Its cheap and easy to replace


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## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
has your cluster ever been apart?
I would try the temp sensor first personally. Its cheap and easy to replace

Yea, PO said that there was an after market cluster, and then the PO said he put a stock one back in. 
I think I'm confused, there's a temp sender (the black one) and a temp sensor? I guess I'll just consult the bentley...I guess I don't really understand








Thanks!


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *chrisd1891* »_
Yea, PO said that there was an after market cluster, and then the PO said he put a stock one back in. 
I think I'm confused, there's a temp sender (the black one) and a temp sensor? I guess I'll just consult the bentley...I guess I don't really understand








Thanks!










sensor, sender... samething.
The black one is for the cluster, blue is for the ECM.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

A bad coolant temp sensor on the G60 can be one possible cause of a rough idle (among the laundry list of other things) right?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_A bad coolant temp sensor on the G60 can be one possible cause of a rough idle (among the laundry list of other things) right?


yes... Is it running rich?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
yes... Is it running rich?

haven't gotten too far into it yet. I told someone (a local fellow G60 owner) this morning that the sensor could be one of a few issues and i just wanted to make sure my claim was correct!


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
haven't gotten too far into it yet. I told someone (a local fellow G60 owner) this morning that the sensor could be one of a few issues and i just wanted to make sure my claim was correct!


its a valid one. Easy to check, just swap the plugs on the two sensors and see if it changes how it runs. Also could be timing.


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
its a valid one. Easy to check, just swap the plugs on the two sensors and see if it changes how it runs. Also could be timing.

I just like to contribute from my bank of 'useless corrado knowledge' with the techs out in the shop when an event as rare as a corrado coming here happens...


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
I just like to contribute from my bank of 'useless corrado knowledge' with the techs out in the shop when an event as rare as a corrado coming here happens... 


Ah yes... the corrado, making techs tremble in fear since 1990








Although I do find it takes a certain type of person to deal with these cars. Most of which are alcoholic and or retarded in some way


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Most of which are alcoholic and or retarded in some way

I'm one of those


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
I'm one of those









So you haven't started drinking yet?


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

ba-zing!


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## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_Most of which are alcoholic and or retarded in some way

I am both


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (dpgreek)*

Anyone ever hear a techtonics tuning Magnaflow exhaust on a G60?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Anyone ever hear a techtonics tuning Magnaflow exhaust on a G60? 


No. TT uses flowmaster and borla for mufflers


----------



## reborndub (Jun 18, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

got an easy one for you!
whats the diffrence between off set and et?
are they the same thing?
and my corrado should be an et 38,what if i went with a offset of 45?
i know nooobe ?


----------



## dpgreek (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (reborndub)*

yes, et refers to the offset of your wheels.
the lower the offset, the further the wheel moved OUTWARD of the fender, and vice versa
so a 45 would move your wheel more inwards. This could possibly cause rubbing against struts /brakes. Depends on your set up really and size of wheel width.
I have 16 x 9" Borbets on my corrado. The et is 30. I'm having to definitely use 10mm spacers to push out in the front and rear because of brakes in back and because of rubbing on coilover on front. Probably would have been better off with a 15 et.


_Modified by dpgreek at 12:21 PM 1-14-2010_


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Also offset changes with width.
IE your stock wheels are 6 inches wide ET 38, say you find a 8 inch wide wheel same offset of 38.
it will have 25mm LESS clearance on the inside and extend 25mm MORE out.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
No. TT uses flowmaster and borla for mufflers

I just ordered one from them for a customer here. Magnaflow muffler. At least that's what they told me / sold me.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
I just ordered one from them for a customer here. Magnaflow muffler. At least that's what they told me / sold me. 

Maybe they changed mufflers? Not listed on TT's site at all though.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Maybe they changed mufflers? Not listed on TT's site at all though.

i know it threw me off when he offered it


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

I prefer magnaflow Jared, so I say you got the good end of the stick


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_ you got the good end of the stick

thats what she said


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
thats what she said










No its what he said to her


----------



## Swink (Aug 15, 2003)

*FV-QR*

Oh hey guys. I haven't been around in a while, so I figured I'd chime in and ask an expert for advice. My driver's front wheel on the passenger side is leaking water, how can I has a fixing?!?!

By the way, I miss you guys


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Swink* »_Oh hey guys. I haven't been around in a while, so I figured I'd chime in and ask an expert for advice. My driver's front wheel on the passenger side is leaking water, how can I has a fixing?!?!

By the way, I miss you guys










Oh use lots of epoxy on the inside of the wheel, only put it on one side... A few ounces will do fine. Then make sure to test drive the car after it hardens. A little shake is normal








BTW where the hell have you been?


----------



## Swink (Aug 15, 2003)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_Oh use lots of epoxy on the inside of the wheel, only put it on one side... A few ounces will do fine. Then make sure to test drive the car after it hardens. A little shake is normal








BTW where the hell have you been?


Thanks!
I've been around, just really busy. Lots of life changes and so forth. I never usually have time to get on vortex, but I had a few minutes today so I figured I'd swing by. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Swink)*

Hope you ar doing well!


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

Stolen from The Tirerack web page.
*Offset*
The offset of a wheel is the distance from its hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel. The offset can be one of three types (measured in millimeters).*
*Zero Offset*
The hub mounting surface is even with the centerline of the wheel.
*Positive*
The hub mounting surface is toward the front or wheel side of the wheel. Positive offset wheels are generally found on front wheel drive cars and newer rear drive cars.
Negative
The hub mounting surface is toward the back or brake side of the wheels centerline. "Deep dish" wheels are typically a negative offset.
If the offset of the wheel is not correct for the car, the handling can be adversely affected. When the width of the wheel changes, the offset also changes numerically. If the offset were to stay the same while you added width, the additional width would be split evenly between the inside and outside. For most cars, this won't work correctly. We have test fitted thousands of different vehicles for proper fitment. Our extensive database allows our sales staff to offer you the perfect fit for your vehicle.
_*Backspacing, similar to offset, is the distance from the hub mounting surface to the inside lip of the wheel (measured in inches)._


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
No its what he said to her

indeed


----------



## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

Alright, nice and simple. Swapped out the G60 PS rack and got a VR one in there. Other than changing out the sreering column, how can you make this work/fit? Taking out the joint was a PITA and I'm guessing the wrong thing to do








After a little struggle and hammering, the joints came out. The ends are actualy caps that have rollers inside them which are now trashed. Was a mess.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (NYCGTM)*

anyone know a good place to get new or rebuilt g60 injectors, even at my wholesale price the OE Bosch ones are way overpriced...


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_anyone know a good place to get new or rebuilt g60 injectors, even at my wholesale price the OE Bosch ones are way overpriced...


http://www.bimmerparts.com
those guys are local to me and they rock!!! their prices are awesome.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
http://www.bimmerparts.com
those guys are local to me and they rock!!! their prices are awesome. 

cool thanks man - i just emailed them since they dont have any listed. Im waiting to hear back from BBM too. They have a few diff ones listed on their site...


----------



## Gilboyto (May 25, 2007)

My Corrado looks different than all these pics?


----------



## skaterazn (Jan 9, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Gilboyto* »_My Corrado looks different than all these pics?


















http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (Gilboyto)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Gilboyto* »_My Corrado looks different than all these pics?

















thats because yer a pussssssey and you biled on us you bitch. hell, even i still have 2 VW's, one of which is a rado, supercharged in fact. (thanks tong) 
nathan, if you had a peeenis you would sell that sissy car and get something with a set of ballz. 
you are the reason the "facepalm" pix are on the internet.


----------



## Gilboyto (May 25, 2007)

hahaha. I just got bored of working on my car to prevent fires







. 
I heard you died and were risen! damn I cant believe my account magically still works, I hadnt logged in for like 2 freakin years it seems like. My car hs balls, they just turned into a vag.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (Gilboyto)*

i did indeed die for 7 minutes, and subsequently spent 22 days in the hospital. not fun.


----------



## Wingzjk (Dec 17, 2009)

Hey guys I just had a question on the carbon canister assembly. If someone could give me a detailed explanation on how to install it on a G60 corrado that would be awesome. Pictures or diagrams would help a bunch too. Thanks -James


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (JemahK)*

1: take out
2: place in trash can
3: crack a brew and enjoy not having a TRULY USELESS piece of sheit in yer engine bay.


----------



## Swink (Aug 15, 2003)

*FV-QR*

too bad he's in CA where he'd fail inspection without it mike.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Swink)*

good project car for somebody: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4709529


----------



## eurotrashmax (May 9, 2006)

Here's another issue. 
I put my transmission back in after having it rebuilt, i also put a new clutch and t.o. bearing in. The problem i have now is a noise in the transmission when the car is in neutral it sounds like a dragging noise and when you push the clutch in the noise goes away or if i try to move the shifter, as if i'm going to put into 5th with out pushing the clutch in i can temporarily make the noise go away as well. 
I dont think any amount of linkage adjustment is going to make that noise go away did i do something wrong when i put the clutch lever, t.o. and spring back in? The car shifts through all gears smoothly with no grinding so i'm positive i put the disc in the right way and not backwards. I applied lube to all the contact points per manual instructions. Did i put on too little? or is that spring clip that holds that clutch lever in place worn out i didnt get a new spring clip and i'm kicking myself currently for not doing so.
I"m trying to get a lot of insight before i go pulling the transmission out again.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

to bearing is most likely making the noise.
What clutch/flywheel is in the car?


----------



## VRT (Dec 8, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

release bearing


----------



## eurotrashmax (May 9, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Sachs OEM kit. The more i think about it i must have messed up down there.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *VRT* »_release bearing


Ive had a bad one new, what a pain in the a$$.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

you didn't put a lightened flywheel in it by any chance, did you?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_
Ive had a bad one new, what a pain in the a$$. 


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_you didn't put a lightened flywheel in it by any chance, did you?

Its gonna be one of the two


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

not flywheel chatter from a lightened flywheel, but a bad bearing that made that chatter really bad. 
was replaced and all is a lot quiter.
but to eurotrashax, yes, if you are using any kind of lightened flywheel, you will have some chatter.


----------



## eurotrashmax (May 9, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

no lightened flywheel thats stock too.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (eurotrashmax)*


_Quote, originally posted by *eurotrashmax* »_no lightened flywheel thats stock too. 

TO bearing is fubar


----------



## eurotrashmax (May 9, 2006)

why would the noise go away by sliding the shifter towards 5 gear?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
TO bearing is fubar

x2


----------



## corr-a-do (Nov 9, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*











_Modified by corr-a-do at 4:38 PM 1-23-2010_


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: (eurotrashmax)*


_Quote, originally posted by *eurotrashmax* »_why would the noise go away by sliding the shifter towards 5 gear?

Because you are putting presure on the input shaft at that point.


----------



## eurotrashmax (May 9, 2006)

*Re: (TheBurninator)*

ah thanks


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Hello experts i have a couple series of question reguarding Lights. 
I bought Ecodes to replace the crappy NA Spec lights, and i was wondering what the best way to wire them up is? Im seeing a lot of conversion and relayed harness wire sets on EPP and TM Tuning, has anyone used these or is there a better way to wire them up? However these lights also come with the motorized levelers and i was wondering how these are supposed to be wired up? Im assuming i will also need the leveling switch and harness as well as the motor harnesses.
Along with the ecodes i bought some foglights and after reading the corrado-club.ca fog light install DIY it seems like the connector for the fog lights are integrated into the headlight harness, is this true or do i have to run a seperate harness? Also, being that my car is a non fog light car im assuming i will need the switch and switch harness for this as well. This being said, i saw on a website (Eurewires.net) a pre maid harness for the fog switch and the leveler switch, is that website reccomended?
Anyways any help is greatly appreciated, thank you ver much.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: (Das.Rado)*

do all the euro wires harnesses and relaying is the best way to not burn your car to the ground.........you ill be happy. 
you will need the level switch wired in if you want to use the leveler motors.


----------



## dilbert0927 (Jan 5, 2008)

*Hmm*

This is my first post in this thread. I think what you guys are doing here is a great thing for us rado newbies.
I purchased my rado about 2 weeks ago. It is a '94 SLC. I have a few issues I would like to ask about.
The first and biggest issue I am having is after the car is warm (not right when you start it) as i first press on the throttle the RPMs drop really low and then go up. As I press is slightly or even harder the RPMs drop before they raise. So I kinda have to tap the throttle twice before i can leave off the clutch or it will stall out. Like I said this only happens when the motor is warmed up. It does not happen when I first start it up and the motor is cold. The plugs and wires have all been done in the last 3k miles. The injectors were either cleaned or replaced at the same time (I do not remember if he said cleaned or replaced). The fuel filter is the only thing I am aware of that was not replaced yet. 
The second problem I am having is the previous owner must have taken out the headlights or done something to the front end. The headlights stick out about 1/4 inch on the outer sides. I have not been able to remove the lights yet. The passenger side looks to be held on with a zip tie so I am not sure what is going on there. The headlights are supposed to sit flush on the sides correct?
The third and final problem I am having is with the HVAC controls. I have read around on the forums a bit about these issues and even tried to find a good DIY but most of the older posts no longer have pics up. I get speed 4 on the fan switch. 1-3 do not work. Also none of the lights in the HVAC controls light up. I opened it up to look and the only thing that looked out of place was a small brownish black spot on the connector where it plugs into the pins. I have a friend parting out his MK3 golf and was gonna take the controls out of his car and try to put them in. I have also seen it done with a MK4 control panel. Was hoping someone could show me a good DIY with pics that could help me out. Or let me know if I will need to go through a ton of work for the MK3 controls to work. I looked at the fuse (#6 i do think) for the fan switch and it seems all good.
Sorry for the long post. These are the issues I am trying to tackle first. Hope someone can give me some advice.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Your IDLE problem: ISV. Clean the entire ISV system. Do not disconnet the ISV with the car running. Only when off. Also replace the Blue coolant temp sensor on the thermostat housing. Should cure most of the warm running issies as long as the ISV has been cleaned and everything else is good. 
Headlights: There are more than enough pictures to show how headlights should look, and obviously zip ties arent oem for that part. Take them off, and put them back. Dont be scared to work on your Corrado. 
HVAC: Blower motor resistor: Change this first and see if the speeds return, if not then your HVAC is screwed. Pull out your glove box. If you dont care about the lights on the hvac, the MK3 unit will work for 93+ cars only. 
We only do this cause not very many will search and have all lived through these fiascos. Honestly guys, everything on this page has been covered, same questions are asked for the last 10 years.


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_
We only do this cause not very many will search and have all lived through these fiascos. Honestly guys, everything on this page has been covered, same questions are asked for the last 10 years. 

Ok here are a few hopefully new ones.
I just put a crossflow 8v head on the corrado and turbocharged it. The thing now sounds like a clattery diesel tractor. Do my lifters just need to suck it up and get used to the new cam? 
Also I do not have the power steering belt on the car as I have gone to a non AC ABF set up. I am going to try to bring the car home on monday. It will drive(hopefully) about 20 miles or so. Will this harm the power steering pump or rack?
Thanks!


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (turtledub)*








smart guy heh. lol
New lifters need to pump up with oil and will sound that way at first. You can however allow them to soak in oil one day prior and press the center of them in priming them manually. Next time.







Clicking should go away soon. 
Steering: Nah, I see only manual power in your future ride home. Pump isnt turning, so no power, and no way to hurt it except at direct pump hits if your low. 
Are you deleting this?


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_







smart guy heh. lol
New lifters need to pump up with oil and will sound that way at first. You can however allow them to soak in oil one day prior and press the center of them in priming them manually. Next time.







Clicking should go away soon. 
Steering: Nah, I see only manual power in your future ride home. Pump isnt turning, so no power, and no way to hurt it except at direct pump hits if your low. 
Are you deleting this? 

I did soak the lifters. Oh well. We will see if they quiet down. I am keeping the power steering. It will run off the stock pully using a v belt. I just have to get a belt that is the right size. I am too much of a wuss to not have power steering.








Also I grafted the thottle body switches off the G60 to the new throttle body. However after adjusting the throttle body so the car will stay on, the one idle switch does not make contact. Will this cause a problem? What does the idle switch do? ISV has been deleted as well.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*

move the switch agin, only this time closer so the screw akes contact. 
I believe your ecm looks for that pick up? G60 Digi II ecm right?


----------



## vitamin C (Jan 23, 2010)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

tried search but nothing to this effect was there
What part(s) of the vacuum system must remain or be reinstalled to have the air ducts/ flaps working? where is the vac diagram in the service manual? Its driving me crazy...
I took out the vacuum thingy that I thought controlled the cruise and the hoses that went through the firewall under the dash by the pedal cluster. not sure that it what controls the flaps. I cannot find the damn diagram








thanks


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (vitamin C)*








corr-a-do















vitamin C








If you removed all that stuff you just removed your cruise control. 
As for your HVAC vac line request. 
Buy a Bentley. Now. Not tomorrow, not next week. It doesnt matter that you have a 1.8t swap. you will still need this for the rest of the car. 
MJM autohause has these in stock.


----------



## vitamin C (Jan 23, 2010)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

YES I have a Bentley for both the AWP and Corrado
YES I removed the cruise no need for it never use it hate it in fact
Looked in bentley for 15 min where is that ****????
BTW Vitamin C from now on...


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*

the vac line that controls the flap is in between the heater core lines. It runs into the ENTIRE vaccum system. 
Start in the Bentley section 80.1 heater and ventilation. Every bit of what you need is there.


----------



## vitamin C (Jan 23, 2010)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

Thanks just to confirm I need the cruise vac pump to have it working? 
Just checked still cannot see the diagram anywhere all I see is the air routing and all that ish but no vac diagram


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (vitamin C)*

where do they mark or identify the transmission code on the G60? I need to order a gasket kit but not sure if my 4-spd auto is a APC, or CPY/ABP/CFA/CFF.
_edit:_ looks like the front seal i need is the same either way.


_Modified by [email protected] at 8:49 AM 1-25-2010_


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

above the starter, is where the id codes are. the is a flat ridge that will need to be cleaned most likely.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

alright thanks.
looks like the 'rado isn't going to make it to dubjam - had the g-lader resealed / rebuilt by BBM and it is leaking oil.
The BBM curse is REAL


----------



## dilbert0927 (Jan 5, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_Your IDLE problem: ISV. Clean the entire ISV system. Do not disconnet the ISV with the car running. Only when off. Also replace the Blue coolant temp sensor on the thermostat housing. Should cure most of the warm running issies as long as the ISV has been cleaned and everything else is good. 
Headlights: There are more than enough pictures to show how headlights should look, and obviously zip ties arent oem for that part. Take them off, and put them back. Dont be scared to work on your Corrado. 
HVAC: Blower motor resistor: Change this first and see if the speeds return, if not then your HVAC is screwed. Pull out your glove box. If you dont care about the lights on the hvac, the MK3 unit will work for 93+ cars only. 
We only do this cause not very many will search and have all lived through these fiascos. Honestly guys, everything on this page has been covered, same questions are asked for the last 10 years. 

I cleaned the ISV and still no difference in running. I do not have any warm running problems I was just saying that it only acts up when the motor has warmed up. I removed the ISV and cleaned it out good. The valve was moving find when I took it out and it really didn't look too dirty, but i cleaned it anyway. The RPMs are still dropping when I press the throttle.
As for the HVAC problem. I still have not gotten anywhere with it. Like I said I do have a friend giving me a new HVAC control from a MKIII. I have seen many people use them and still are able to get the lights working. I am not sure what they did to make it work though. No one really had a write up about it.
Thanks for the advice. Hope someone can help me out a little further.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (dilbert0927)*

Still need the blue coolant tep sensor. its what controls your fueling after the car is warmed up. 
Personal experience from this running issue, check your wiring to the TPS sensor as well. I found a brake in the wire that caused almost a 40hp loss on the dyno. 
as for the hvac, yes the lights can work if you get the pigtail from the mk3 and splice in the 2 wires for the corrado hvac lights. I currently have a mk3 unit in mine. If yours currently only works on speed #4 replace the "blower motor resistor" first, it is located behind the glove box. About $20.00 and a lot less work (the hvac controls are the last thing taken out of the dash, you must remove the center bezzel beforee you can get those out) to see if your hvac unit is still good. It may be the resistor is done causing you to not have any speed but 4. 
good luck


----------



## reborndub (Jun 18, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

whats the experts favorite trick for holding inner tie-rods,when replacing outers??








thanks in advance http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (reborndub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *reborndub* »_whats the experts favorite trick for holding inner tie-rods,when replacing outers??








thanks in advance http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

using the correct sized wrench on the tie rod. There is a spot where two flat spots are cut into the tie rod itself. Or a pipe wrench if you cant seem to find the correct way to do it.


----------



## reborndub (Jun 18, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
using the correct sized wrench on the tie rod. There is a spot where two flat spots are cut into the tie rod itself. Or a pipe wrench if you cant seem to find the correct way to do it.









yeh i know that spot on the inner is there,just seems f'd. 12mm to small,13mm played so the torqe would spin it.
well looks like vise grips on inner, and make the outer glow.








just looking to see if there was a secret trick.
thanks burn http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (reborndub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *reborndub* »_
yeh i know that spot on the inner is there,just seems f'd. 12mm to small,13mm played so the torqe would spin it.
well looks like vise grips on inner, and make the outer glow.








just looking to see if there was a secret trick.
thanks burn http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

pipe wrench is much better than vice grips. You can get more leverage http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## reborndub (Jun 18, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
pipe wrench is much better than vice grips. You can get more leverage http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

got them off, no damage. on pass side. had to wedge grips between dr.shaft and c-arm. little heat popped right off. same thing on the driver side but because of more room in there i had to use a little more imagination.oh and only one bashed nuckle http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
now for my next question:
i snapped the bolts for the abs sensors, they may be broken flush with the spindle,but not sure. 
now how can i remove the sensors without destroying them. they aint broken now so i would love to save them.
worse case i could leave them in and pull them back through the fender.
ideas??


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *reborndub* »_
got them off, no damage. on pass side. had to wedge grips between dr.shaft and c-arm. little heat popped right off. same thing on the driver side but because of more room in there i had to use a little more imagination.oh and only one bashed nuckle http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
now for my next question:
i snapped the bolts for the abs sensors, they may be broken flush with the spindle,but not sure. 
now how can i remove the sensors without destroying them. they aint broken now so i would love to save them.
worse case i could leave them in and pull them back through the fender.
ideas?? 


easy out and a drill might be your only bet.
you may want to try tapping on the edge of what is left of the bolt with a screw driver and hammer in a CCW direction.


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

On an abf alternator set up do I need the smaller wire that does not go to the battery? Also on which pin do I hook it up?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *turtledub* »_On an abf alternator set up do I need the smaller wire that does not go to the battery? Also on which pin do I hook it up?


You mean the alternator exciter wire? yes you do. What do you mean which pin? There should already be an exciter wire in your bay.


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
You mean the alternator exciter wire? yes you do. What do you mean which pin? There should already be an exciter wire in your bay.

On the back of the alternator there is a place for a plug that has 2 pins in it. I need to know which one I plug into.


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

Bump. Also the car had the battery light on while I drove it. It ran fine and then without warning or anything catastrophic it died. Now it will not even attempt to crank. Power windows will not go up easily and other general electric stuff has taken a poo. Did my battery just die all the way to the point where it will not attempt to start?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *turtledub* »_Bump. Also the car had the battery light on while I drove it. It ran fine and then without warning or anything catastrophic it died. Now it will not even attempt to crank. Power windows will not go up easily and other general electric stuff has taken a poo. Did my battery just die all the way to the point where it will not attempt to start?


Battery light was on because your alternator exciter wire wasn't hooked up. If it isn't then it will not charge the battery at all. 
Sounds like you killed the battery.
Info you need:

_Quote, originally posted by *INA* »_
<font color="blue">*WHEN YOU RECEIEVE YOUR KIT YOU WILL NOTICE A 2-PIN CONNECTOR ON THE UPPER PART OF ALTERNATOR WITH 2 TERMINALS:
**D+*
*W*
</font>
*YOU HOOK UP THE EXCITE WIRE ON YOUR STOCK SYSTEM TO THE "D+" TERMINAL. THE "W" TERMINAL IS FOR DIESELS ONLY!*
******


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

I thought that it might just be the battery.Thank you TheBurninator! I will get the battery checked out.


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Hey guys i took off the ecode bezel so i could wet send the lens to clean it up, im at the reassemble stage and the bezzle doesnt want to clip in on the top. 
Am i retarded and am doing something obvious wrong or did something probably break when i took it off?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: (Das.Rado)*

did you loose the clips? 
There are clips that go on the 2 tabs on each side that retain the bezzels. 
If not EPP has new ones.


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

that seems to be the problem thank you very much.


----------



## Wirbelsturm.VW (Sep 24, 2007)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

Can someone help me with what this sound could bee















http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...56520


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Wirbelsturm.VW)*

maybe wheel bearings.


----------



## Wirbelsturm.VW (Sep 24, 2007)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (DUBZAK)*

No i know what that sounds like and this is more of a high pitch noise.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

thats a really tough thing to try and diagnose over the interwebz. 
High pitched and only in neutral? Maybe the diff is going out. Then when you put load on the trans it stops?
Like I said, this is going to be a tough one to figure out without seeing and driving the car.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

*Re: (DUBZAK)*

Need a pic of the 1m vaccum line that goes from the ecu (map sensor) to the TB on a G60 (to see in which of the two..."nipples"







of the TB is bolted). Thanks


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *RedYellowWhite* »_Need a pic of the 1m vaccum line that goes from the ecu (map sensor) to the TB on a G60 (to see in which of the two..."nipples"







of the TB is bolted). Thanks










its the one passed the butterflies.
I will try to find it in the bentley for you


----------



## VR6Nutt (Dec 18, 2003)

*FV-QR*

Been driving the Corrado for about 3 months solid now and just started having a couple issues creep up. It was a long run, I know. But it's inevitable. Threw a CEL. Blinked it and came back with 4411 (Injector #1). I fiddled with the wires and started motor. CEL still. Blinked and got 2342 (O2 Sensor). Crap. I think some demon is living in my bay eating my wires! I didn't check the connection on top of the motor mount - as I will today - but had a question about O2 sensors in general. I happen to have a brand new in box 3-wire Bosch O2 Sensor for a Mercedes (Left behind by father-in-law). Since this is an OBDI motor and has a 3-wire sensor, wouldnt it be safe to say that if needed, I could swap sensors; just have to move the connector over? It has 2 White/1 Black wires. I kinda feel I should swap since my current sensor has about 150k on it.


----------



## FissionMailed (May 26, 2006)

2 quick q's-
I wanna replace the vacuum lines this weekend, and I can't get to the vw dealer to get the braided one. Is regular autozone line ok, at least for a little while? The car doesn't really get driven much yet, still a project, and I need to sort out the bucking while the g60 is off. Money isn't the issue- the vw dealer is open at bad times for me this week, so the braided will have to wait.
2nd- mine is bucking, like just cuts out sometimes. How can I tell if its the fuel pump/o2 sensor, etc?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Disconnect the barrel plug and stare it it for a few hours. After it attempts to eat your soul spray some dielectric grease in it and put it back together. I wouldn't waste my time with a used sensor... just go buy a new one. They are only 35 bucks for a 4 wire universal.


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

*Re: (FissionMailed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FissionMailed* »_2 quick q's-
I wanna replace the vacuum lines this weekend, and I can't get to the vw dealer to get the braided one. Is regular autozone line ok, at least for a little while? The car doesn't really get driven much yet, still a project, and I need to sort out the bucking while the g60 is off. Money isn't the issue- the vw dealer is open at bad times for me this week, so the braided will have to wait.
2nd- mine is bucking, like just cuts out sometimes. How can I tell if its the fuel pump/o2 sensor, etc?


The normal stuff from the autoparts store works just as well. In fact I think it will last longer than the OEM stuff will.


----------



## VR6Nutt (Dec 18, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (VR6Nutt)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VR6Nutt* »_Been driving the Corrado for about 3 months solid now and just started having a couple issues creep up. It was a long run, I know. But it's inevitable. Threw a CEL. Blinked it and came back with 4411 (Injector #1). I fiddled with the wires and started motor. CEL still. Blinked and got 2342 (O2 Sensor). Crap. I think some demon is living in my bay eating my wires! I didn't check the connection on top of the motor mount - as I will today - but had a question about O2 sensors in general. I happen to have a brand new in box 3-wire Bosch O2 Sensor for a Mercedes (Left behind by father-in-law). Since this is an OBDI motor and has a 3-wire sensor, wouldnt it be safe to say that if needed, I could swap sensors; just have to move the connector over? It has 2 White/1 Black wires. I kinda feel I should swap since my current sensor has about 150k on it. 

Anyone?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *VR6Nutt* »_
Anyone? 



_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_Disconnect the barrel plug and stare it it for a few hours. After it attempts to eat your soul spray some dielectric grease in it and put it back together. I wouldn't waste my time with a used sensor... just go buy a new one. They are only 35 bucks for a 4 wire universal.



I responded to it.


----------



## VR6Nutt (Dec 18, 2003)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
I responded to it.


I didnt see that. $35 where? BTW, that benz sensor I have is 3 wires. oh well.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *VR6Nutt* »_
I didnt see that. $35 where? BTW, that benz sensor I have is 3 wires. oh well. 



you will want a 4 wire not a 3 wire. Use a bosch sensor for a 5.0 mustang, cut off the connector and solder your connector onto it.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
its the one passed the butterflies.
I will try to find it in the bentley for you

Found it on the Bentley...








now, can i use any kind of vaccum line?


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

hello. so the question is, would a passat b4 sunroof glass work in a 93 corrado mechanism. the track on the passat is not 100% and the metal roof in the corrado has no problems. is it easy to swap out the glass with the metal and the slider under it?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: (angelod307)*

cant do it, the rain tray and hooks on the passat roof are different.


----------



## atlanticcoastcustoms (Sep 26, 2007)

*Re: (DUBZAK)*

I'm doing a auto trans to manual trans swap, and am swapping the ECU's (digifant control module) and I noticed that the connector on the auto car looks like it connects to different pins on the ECU than the connector on the manual car. Am I going to have to swap that whole wiring harness and connector, or can I plug the manual ECU into the automatic connector?


----------



## FissionMailed (May 26, 2006)

*Re: (atlanticcoastcustoms)*

Car isn't shifting quite right- when up/downshifting, you have to rev-match or the car just won't shift. I tried bleeding the clutch, starting with the clutch master cylinder, but it still doesn't quite feel right- it doesn't come back up very quickly. feels kinda...sludgy, to put it. 
Oh, as a bonus, the brake fluid was absolutely black and totally opaque, so I'll probably bleed all the brakes soon. Now, my question- I know I need to bleed all the brakes, but there doesn't seem to be any air in the brakes, and the clutch master/slave cylinder doesn't seem to have any air in it. What can I do now?


----------



## FissionMailed (May 26, 2006)

One more thing- is bucking typically caused by the main or transfer fuel pump, if it is a fueling issue?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *atlanticcoastcustoms* »_I'm doing a auto trans to manual trans swap, and am swapping the ECU's (digifant control module) and I noticed that the connector on the auto car looks like it connects to different pins on the ECU than the connector on the manual car. Am I going to have to swap that whole wiring harness and connector, or can I plug the manual ECU into the automatic connector?


ECU pinouts are the same between manual and auto cars
Hell the ECU's are the same too.

_Quote, originally posted by *FissionMailed* »_Car isn't shifting quite right- when up/downshifting, you have to rev-match or the car just won't shift. I tried bleeding the clutch, starting with the clutch master cylinder, but it still doesn't quite feel right- it doesn't come back up very quickly. feels kinda...sludgy, to put it. 
Oh, as a bonus, the brake fluid was absolutely black and totally opaque, so I'll probably bleed all the brakes soon. Now, my question- I know I need to bleed all the brakes, but there doesn't seem to be any air in the brakes, and the clutch master/slave cylinder doesn't seem to have any air in it. What can I do now?


replace your clutch master and slave cyl

_Quote, originally posted by *FissionMailed* »_One more thing- is bucking typically caused by the main or transfer fuel pump, if it is a fueling issue?


bucking isn't usually fuel pump related. Check for vac leaks and other stuff ETC ETC


----------



## PtownVdub (Jun 22, 2006)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

I have a 1992 Corrado with a VR6. The car is pretty much stock. I am trying to remove the center dash section with the vents, radio, and HVAC controls.
I am wondering how to remove the HVAC panel. I thought all I would need to do is put the sliders in the middle of the panel and pull them off just like a MKII. However, I can't get them to slide off and I am afraid of breaking something if I use too much force.
Thanks for the help.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (PtownVdub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PtownVdub* »_I have a 1992 Corrado with a VR6. The car is pretty much stock. I am trying to remove the center dash section with the vents, radio, and HVAC controls.
I am wondering how to remove the HVAC panel. I thought all I would need to do is put the sliders in the middle of the panel and pull them off just like a MKII. However, I can't get them to slide off and I am afraid of breaking something if I use too much force.
Thanks for the help.

try removing the screws that hold it in place. Do you have a bentley?


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (TheBurninator)*

Once you pull the sliders out the panel should snap out. There are screws that hold the bezel to the rear part of the HVAC controls but the front panel just snaps into place.


----------



## PtownVdub (Jun 22, 2006)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_try removing the screws that hold it in place. Do you have a bentley? 

The Bentley is on order so I am not able to reference it at the moment.
I don't see any screws holding the HVAC panel in place. I thought it was just popped in place but the slider levers are preventing me from taking it off all the way.
Here is a picture with the sliders in question that I am trying to remove:








Thanks again.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*

pull the vents out to find the screws.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

you need to remove the ashtray and the cig lighter to get to them


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

No that panel just pops out. The screws hold the bezel and the rear portion of the HVAC together!
There are two screws in the lower rear pocket. Two behind the top vents. And the screws behind the HVAC once you pop the face piece off.


_Modified by dogger at 12:13 PM 3-2-2010_


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*

bump


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_bump

you should have those bumps checked out


----------



## Baby Jai (Jul 31, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

4x100 stock rims? Is this correct, i did a search and came up with just about the same thing im asking you, also is the offset the most i can go with 40?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Baby Jai)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Baby Jai* »_4x100 stock rims? Is this correct, i did a search and came up with just about the same thing im asking you, also is the offset the most i can go with 40?

4x100 is the bolt pattern for a g60.
Offset depends on wheel width. I would start with this:
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=wheel+offset


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Baby Jai* »_4x100 stock rims? Is this correct, i did a search and came up with just about the same thing im asking you, also is the offset the most i can go with 40?


THANK YOU!!!!!!! Even though your a snotty little smart a$$ heres the deal. I will help you but this is what you need. Pick a wheel and give us the dimensions of it, diameter and width. from there we can offer advice as to how much work will be needed to make them fit or if your going to look a lil south of the border style. 
your stock wheels offset for a g60 with a 6.5" wide wheel is i believe et42. For every half inch you go wider on, the ET changes . 
G60 is 4x100
SLC is 5x100 bolt patterns
ingrate.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_
THANK YOU!!!!!!! Even though your a snotty little smart a$$ heres the deal. I will help you but this is what you need. Pick a wheel and give us the dimensions of it, diameter and width. from there we can offer advice as to how much work will be needed to make them fit or if your going to look a lil south of the border style. 
your stock wheels offset for a g60 with a 6.5" wide wheel is i believe et42. For every half inch you go wider on, the ET changes . 
G60 is 4x100
SLC is 5x100 bolt patterns
ingrate.









Stock on a G60 is 6" wide ET 38


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*

see glad i asked an expert.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_see glad i asked an expert.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_see glad i asked an expert. 


I retract that comment, they are et 35. 
geeze experts...get your sh*+ together man!!!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_
I retract that comment, they are et 35. 
geeze experts...get your sh*+ together man!!!









Eh it was a guestimate.


----------



## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_Eh it was a guestimate. 

You my friend need to get that white stuff washed out of your eyes so you can see better


----------



## ALLROAD VR (Jan 23, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (NYCGTM)*

Kinda simple question, what is the speaker size for the rear speakers? Is it 4 X 6?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (STI VR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *STI VR* »_Kinda simple question, what is the speaker size for the rear speakers? Is it 4 X 6? 

4x6 metric


----------



## ALLROAD VR (Jan 23, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## PtownVdub (Jun 22, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (dogger)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dogger* »_No that panel just pops out. The screws hold the bezel and the rear portion of the HVAC together!
There are two screws in the lower rear pocket. Two behind the top vents. And the screws behind the HVAC once you pop the face piece off.

_Modified by dogger at 12:13 PM 3-2-2010_

Thank you everyone for the help. I got everything taken apart so I can tidy up the stereo wiring. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Nstuart88 (Jan 29, 2010)

*Re: FV-QR (PtownVdub)*

how hard is it to replace the cylinder head cover gasket?and is their anything else i should check while i have it apart


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Nstuart88* »_how hard is it to replace the cylinder head cover gasket?and is their anything else i should check while i have it apart



what engine


----------



## Nstuart88 (Jan 29, 2010)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

vr6


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

is it hard to do a valve cover gasket? that depends on the person doing it. 
remove the intake manifold, egr, valve cover, replace upper intake mani and valve cover gaskets, use a little permatex on the vc, and bolt it back together in reverse order.
you'll need allens and sockets for most of the work. 


_Modified by DUBZAK at 8:55 PM 3-3-2010_


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Nstuart88)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Nstuart88* »_how hard is it to replace the cylinder head cover gasket?and is their anything else i should check while i have it apart

It's harder than it needs to be, just like most things on the vr6








I have a question...my check engine light comes on after driving above 60mph for about 20 minutes, and then when I go below about 50mph it turns off, and then after i've been driving for a while above 60 again it may or may not turn back on? This only happens on the highway. Any ideas?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (chrisd1891)*

scan it would be the best way to find out. my 93 didnt come with a CEL.


----------



## FissionMailed (May 26, 2006)

Ok, well, I've looked everywhere- and I do mean EVERYWHERE- for this vacuum line and can't find it. NAPA, Autozone, Advance Auto, O'Reilly's, any of the independent store, even the VW dealer- NOBODY carries metric line.
Can I just use SAE, then? What worries me is I know the ECU vacuum line has to be exact length, but what if the diameter is off?
Is SAE ok if I use a clamp on it?


----------



## FissionMailed (May 26, 2006)

^^anybody got any idea?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *FissionMailed* »_Ok, well, I've looked everywhere- and I do mean EVERYWHERE- for this vacuum line and can't find it. NAPA, Autozone, Advance Auto, O'Reilly's, any of the independent store, even the VW dealer- NOBODY carries metric line.
Can I just use SAE, then? What worries me is I know the ECU vacuum line has to be exact length, but what if the diameter is off?
Is SAE ok if I use a clamp on it?


The bentley has the measurement in it. IIRC it was 5mm vac hose.


----------



## FissionMailed (May 26, 2006)

I have the measurements and how much of each written down, but the issue is- NOBODY carries metric line, not even the dealer. Will SAE work, if it is close/clamped off?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *FissionMailed* »_I have the measurements and how much of each written down, but the issue is- NOBODY carries metric line, not even the dealer. Will SAE work, if it is close/clamped off?


so order some online. OR convert from metric to imperial measurement.
Personally I feel the G60 map sensor exact length thing is a myth. There is no way a map sensor can be that sensitive. Bench testing with MS stuff has shown that you don't get vacuum attenuation for almost 50 feet.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

cluster is bein funny... fuel / temp gauges work, but display is f'd and the speedo and tach are not working. THe needles move a little when driving. The spoiler still works so the VSS is functional. ??


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

*Re: (FissionMailed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FissionMailed* »_I have the measurements and how much of each written down, but the issue is- NOBODY carries metric line, not even the dealer. Will SAE work, if it is close/clamped off?

Don't know if this is any help to you but here's the part # of the 1m vaccum line from tb to ecu: N02035327
Maybe with the part no. the "stealer" can help you...


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_cluster is bein funny... fuel / temp gauges work, but display is f'd and the speedo and tach are not working. THe needles move a little when driving. The spoiler still works so the VSS is functional. ??










I would pull the cluster, and check the harness to it. If it looks good open the cluster up and check for burns. If nothing there, check the harness at the fise box. 
Also how is the battery? I only see that when mine is dying.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_
I would pull the cluster, and check the harness to it. If it looks good open the cluster up and check for burns. If nothing there, check the harness at the fise box. 
Also how is the battery? I only see that when mine is dying. 

I'll check that stuff. it's intermittent, as most of the time it works fine. On the way home today the speedo worked fine but the tach was malfunctioning and the LCD displays still looked like they did in my original pic. Battery is new, alternator is new.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*

cluster might be taking a poop. but check your grounds for sure.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

So basically, make sure the harness or anything inside the cluster doesn't look cooked (which would indicate bad grounds. Or good chance the cluster is finished.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*

basically.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

Guess i'll yank it this weekend. The cluster.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

Hey, do a search under my name, asked the same on two different occasions, the way to test it is to, a eff it, just gonna call ya http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Sr. Karmann)*

What VW dealer doesn't carry the over priced OEM vacuum line? 
I have one meter of OEM vacuum line if that guy could use it. $9 it cost at the dealer!!!


----------



## FissionMailed (May 26, 2006)

*Re: (RedYellowWhite)*

Ok, that may help, thanks a lot. This really is strange- I could have sworn just 2-3 years ago I bought metric vacuum line for my Cabriolet at Autozone.
Mazda, 2 VW dealers, Audi, Lexus, Mercedes dealer, independent shops, Autozone, O'Reilly's, Advance Auto, NAPA, NOBODY carries metric line. It's as if it disappeared off the face of the earth and nobody's even heard of the stuff. The VW place wasn't even sure if VW ever made the quote unquote (both VW and O'Reilly's guys said this) "Colorado, you say? That's a GMC."
Why, you're right! My car is actually 20 years newer than I thought it was, and wow, what's this? It has a truck bed, you say? Amazing!
In fact, the only metric line I found was some fabric braided 5mm diesel hose, but at $7 a foot that isn't getting anywhere near my car, insane pricing.
And I really don't want to order it online- it's either buy 100ft or buy the crazy overpriced silicone hose, and if I'm paying $60 for silicone hose and shipping I better be able to put vac line on my Jetta and Corrado.

EDIT: location if anybody has any idea: Chattanooga, TN, and yeah, I did check mainly foreign...
and I have tried to find all 3 sizes the 'rado apparently uses. sorry for all the Q's, and thanks a lot,.


_Modified by FissionMailed at 9:21 PM 3-9-2010_


----------



## wed3k (Feb 22, 2010)

why do we need metric line?


----------



## FissionMailed (May 26, 2006)

*Re: (wed3k)*

'cuz I also can't find SAE that is close enough...


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (FissionMailed)*

some braided vac line available here: http://www.ecstuning.com/Volks...acuum/


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

so i noticed my rear motor mount was loose today....so i went to tighten the bolt on top of it and the whole mount just spun??


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: (1broknrado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1broknrado* »_so i noticed my rear motor mount was loose today....so i went to tighten the bolt on top of it and the whole mount just spun??









YOU BROKE IT!
bolt the ears on the mount down to the subframe


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

oh jesus. what should i do?


----------



## FissionMailed (May 26, 2006)

I see that GAP carries the little hose from the brake master to clutch master, but is there anything that is readily available at parts stores I can substitute? Again, price isn't the issue (ordered my vacuum hose online...) but I don't wanna order just one thing online...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: (FissionMailed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FissionMailed* »_I see that GAP carries the little hose from the brake master to clutch master, but is there anything that is readily available at parts stores I can substitute? Again, price isn't the issue (ordered my vacuum hose online...) but I don't wanna order just one thing online...

have a hydrolic shop build you a line.


----------



## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Stock on a G60 is 6" wide ET 38

Maybe the Stock, but the optional Cast 1 Piece BBS 407's is 6.5" x 15" and has a offset of 33et.


----------



## FissionMailed (May 26, 2006)

*Re: (TheBurninator)*

It's not really a line though, it's just a blue braided hose that isn't even clamped on or anything. Doesn't seem to hold much pressure. I'm just wondering if fuel injection hose or something can be substituted. 
http://www.germanautoparts.com...425/1
What's so special about this line, other than resistance to brake fluid? What other kind of rubber hose is resistant to brake fluid?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: (FissionMailed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FissionMailed* »_It's not really a line though, it's just a blue braided hose that isn't even clamped on or anything. Doesn't seem to hold much pressure. I'm just wondering if fuel injection hose or something can be substituted. 
http://www.germanautoparts.com...425/1
What's so special about this line, other than resistance to brake fluid? What other kind of rubber hose is resistant to brake fluid?

OH that line? it is just the feed to the clutch master from the res.
Find some braided line that is rated for use with brake fluid


----------



## Pueblorrado v4.0 (Nov 17, 2009)

*Re: (TheBurninator)*

Hey, experts. 
I tried to perform an injector cleaning on my corrado yesterday and now i have a no-start condition
the cleaner is the type that you connect directly to the fuel rail, and then use shop air to pressurize a canister of injector cleaner and gasoline to feed the injectors. 
i connected the canister to the fuel inlet per my professor (the one just right of the FPR, not on the base of the FPR), and removed the vac line from the IM to the FPR to prevent the mix from recircuilating back to the fuel tank, plugged the IM vacuum barb, and pressurized the canister. the fuel pressure gauge on the canister read 50psi on the wet side, and just higher than that on the dry side. (air pressure forcing fluid down to the rail). 
with this setup, i was unable to get the engine to start. after a minute or so of cranking, i cracked the caniser open and all of my fuel/detergent mixture was gone. once i reconnected the fuel line to the rail i was also unable to get it to start
i verified that the fuel pump is moving fluid but didnt have time to check KOEO fuel pressure. 
when cranking, the first turn of the engine at low rpm seems to spark and get 1-3 combustion events, but anything beyond that as it continues cranking doesnt seem to get any combustion. 
i pulled the spark plugs and fuel pump relay and cranked the engine and let it hang out just in case i flooded the holy god out of the engine. after this it still had the same 1-3 pops, no start. 
the mixture either went to the cylinders or through the fuel return line to the tank (uhhh, f me, that stuff is vicious and this will be bad news to correct) 
my suspicion: i overwhelmed the FPR with the pressure of the fuel/detergent mixture and it is now not allowing enough fuel pressure to even sustain an idle. sound reasonable to you?










_Modified by Pueblorrado v4.0 at 10:04 AM 3-12-2010_


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: (Pueblorrado v4.0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pueblorrado v4.0* »_Hey, experts. 
I tried to perform an injector cleaning on my corrado yesterday and now i have a no-start condition
the cleaner is the type that you connect directly to the fuel rail, and then use shop air to pressurize a canister of injector cleaner and gasoline to feed the injectors. 
i connected the canister to the fuel inlet per my professor (the one just right of the FPR, not on the base of the FPR), and removed the vac line from the IM to the FPR to prevent the mix from recircuilating back to the fuel tank, plugged the IM vacuum barb, and pressurized the canister. the fuel pressure gauge on the canister read 50psi on the wet side, and just higher than that on the dry side. (air pressure forcing fluid down to the rail). 
with this setup, i was unable to get the engine to start. after a minute or so of cranking, i cracked the caniser open and all of my fuel/detergent mixture was gone. once i reconnected the fuel line to the rail i was also unable to get it to start
i verified that the fuel pump is moving fluid but didnt have time to check KOEO fuel pressure. 
when cranking, the first turn of the engine at low rpm seems to spark and get 1-3 combustion events, but anything beyond that as it continues cranking doesnt seem to get any combustion. 
i pulled the spark plugs and fuel pump relay and cranked the engine and let it hang out just in case i flooded the holy god out of the engine. after this it still had the same 1-3 pops, no start. 
the mixture either went to the cylinders or through the fuel return line to the tank (uhhh, f me, that stuff is vicious and this will be bad news to correct) 
my suspicion: i overwhelmed the FPR with the pressure of the fuel/detergent mixture and it is now not allowing enough fuel pressure to even sustain an idle. sound reasonable to you?









_Modified by Pueblorrado v4.0 at 10:04 AM 3-12-2010_

Hi Kyle, get banned again?








I would say that is plausible that it is an issue with the fpr. too bad you aren't further north we could check real quick since I have a couple FPR's laying around.
Normally when an FPR goes bad though it dumps fuel, not restrict the flow


----------



## pueblorrado v3.0 (Nov 22, 2006)

*Re: (TheBurninator)*

that is what i would suspect, but the FPRs also aren't subjected to what could be 5x the normal fuel pressure, so who knows. 
is there a particular testing sequence for the FPR? i dont have my bentley on me at the moment...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: (pueblorrado v3.0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pueblorrado v3.0* »_that is what i would suspect, but the FPRs also aren't subjected to what could be 5x the normal fuel pressure, so who knows. 
is there a particular testing sequence for the FPR? i dont have my bentley on me at the moment...

The only way that I can think of is to put a fuel pressure gauge on the feed going to the FPR. it should regulate it to 50psi or so with key on. Not sure if there is an actual test for the FPR other than testing pressure.


----------



## dasbeast3.0 (Aug 15, 2007)

*Re: (pueblorrado v3.0)*

Standard fpr is 3.5bar if I remember right..50 psi exactly. Your pressure was not anything abnormal. I doubt its the fpr. Did you make sure the fuel lines are not reversed when you put them back on?


----------



## dasbeast3.0 (Aug 15, 2007)

*Re: (dasbeast3.0)*

I doubt it unloaded to the tank, otherwise the can would have unloaded as soon as you connected it to the rail. W/ the vac line disconnected, the fpr doesn't do anything different once the car is started Ie: no vac.. You sent that stuff right through the injectors fwiw.


----------



## Yoss (Apr 24, 2005)

*idle problem*

*IDLE PROBLEM*
Have a loud tick/knocking noise at idle , even a small amount of gas resolves it - ISV has been removed because it was causing the idle to hunt and ping - Vaccuum leak? All the hoses are relatively new , the only thing I can think is maybe the idle screw?


----------



## FissionMailed (May 26, 2006)

*Re: idle problem (Yoss)*

Hm, I wonder if it's just old hydraulic lifters? I'm new to Corrados (but not VWs) and I know that the JH tends to tick when the lifters get old. Sometimes it only does it at idle. Or if they're solid, need adjusting maybe?


----------



## Mr. Toes (Mar 2, 2010)

I just ordered a new radiator today after finding a small crack in the plastic in mine







. Anyone have a write up for this? Thanks


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Mr. Toes* »_I just ordered a new radiator today after finding a small crack in the plastic in mine







. Anyone have a write up for this? Thanks


pretty strait forward.
Remove bumper, remover headlights, remove core support, unbolt radiator from ac condensor, remove radiator, put new one in, put it all back together, then burp the coolant system.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

kyle: can you look on your ETKA and confirm for me if part #357957033AC is the entire instrument cluster for my 91? thanks dood...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_kyle: can you look on your ETKA and confirm for me if part #357957033AC is the entire instrument cluster for my 91? thanks dood... 


sure thing


----------



## Mr. Toes (Mar 2, 2010)

another thing... My EGR and ISV are not working properly i've heard it before that i should just tear them out, but what did you guys use to block the EGR exhaust steel line? I've already tried cleaning the grounds on both and i cleaned out the ISV. I live in an area without smog tests.


----------



## Mr. Toes (Mar 2, 2010)

anyone?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_kyle: can you look on your ETKA and confirm for me if part #357957033AC is the entire instrument cluster for my 91? thanks dood... 


I haven't gotten to this yet, but I will when I get home from work today


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
I haven't gotten to this yet, but I will when I get home from work today


np... i think the number is just for the speedometer head and the cluster is not available as one component. Mine is going haywire and I need to see if BBA Reman can fix it or start hunting another one down.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
np... i think the number is just for the speedometer head and the cluster is not available as one component. Mine is going haywire and I need to see if BBA Reman can fix it or start hunting another one down.


I tried to check the numbers on vagcat earlier but it is euro only P/N's so it didn't come up.
I didn't have etka installed when you asked so I had to install it.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
I tried to check the numbers on vagcat earlier but it is euro only P/N's so it didn't come up.
I didn't have etka installed when you asked so I had to install it.

no problem meng!


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Mr. Toes* »_another thing... My EGR and ISV are not working properly i've heard it before that i should just tear them out, but what did you guys use to block the EGR exhaust steel line? I've already tried cleaning the grounds on both and i cleaned out the ISV. I live in an area without smog tests.


Use a 14mm oil plug or one of your lug bolts from a VR car. 
As for the ISV thing, search for "ISV Delete"


----------



## Mr. Toes (Mar 2, 2010)

my car seems to be running pretty warm my oil temp is 236-256. Is this normal?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (Mr. Toes)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Mr. Toes* »_my car seems to be running pretty warm my oil temp is 236-256. Is this normal?

That seems a little on the high side to me... Oil cooler not working so well anymore perhaps? We sell 'em for about $55.


----------



## PtownVdub (Jun 22, 2006)

*VR6 with check engine light on ...*

I have a 1992 Corrado with a stock VR6. The car is a California car with the Check Engine Light. The other day the CEL came on when I came to a stop at a stop sign. I used the blink method to determine that the codes are:
2413 - Mixture Control - Running Rich
2341 - Oxygen sensor at control limit
The CEL comes on for the first 5 minutes once the car is started up and then every time the car idles for longer than 15 seconds it comes back on again but goes off as soon as the engine speed changes.
I have checked out the obvious things like MAF connector wiring and O2 connector wiring. I also made sure that I don't have any fuel leaks or anything like that. The car runs fine and idles well. I am rather unfamiliar with the VR6 and was wondering if anyone else has experienced something similar. If so, could you please point me in the right direction? I have also looked at the Bentley but really didn't come up with much.
Thanks in advance for the help. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## PtownVdub (Jun 22, 2006)

*Re: VR6 with check engine light on ... (PtownVdub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PtownVdub* »_I have a 1992 Corrado with a stock VR6. The car is a California car with the Check Engine Light. The other day the CEL came on when I came to a stop at a stop sign. I used the blink method to determine that the codes are:
2413 - Mixture Control - Running Rich
2341 - Oxygen sensor at control limit
The CEL comes on for the first 5 minutes once the car is started up and then every time the car idles for longer than 15 seconds it comes back on again but goes off as soon as the engine speed changes.
I have checked out the obvious things like MAF connector wiring and O2 connector wiring. I also made sure that I don't have any fuel leaks or anything like that. The car runs fine and idles well. I am rather unfamiliar with the VR6 and was wondering if anyone else has experienced something similar. If so, could you please point me in the right direction? I have also looked at the Bentley but really didn't come up with much.
Thanks in advance for the help. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

I forgot to mention that I also recently replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs, air filter, ECM relay, and fuel pump relay.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: VR6 with check engine light on ... (PtownVdub)*

replace the blue coolant temp senesor, and your 02.


----------



## PtownVdub (Jun 22, 2006)

*Re: VR6 with check engine light on ... (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_replace the blue coolant temp senesor, and your 02. 

I just replaced the blue coolant temp sensor this morning. It didn't appear to change the cars behavior at all. I guess I need to turn my attention to the O2 sensor now.


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

*Re: VR6 with check engine light on ... (PtownVdub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PtownVdub* »_
I forgot to mention that I also recently replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs, air filter, ECM relay, and fuel pump relay.

The heater element in your O2 sensor is dead. The sensor doesn't work correctly if it isn't hot enough, That's why it's intermittent, when you idle it cools off just enough to trip the code. You need a new O2 Sensor.


----------



## PtownVdub (Jun 22, 2006)

*Re: VR6 with check engine light on ... (NoCYet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NoCYet* »_The heater element in your O2 sensor is dead. The sensor doesn't work correctly if it isn't hot enough, That's why it's intermittent, when you idle it cools off just enough to trip the code. You need a new O2 Sensor. 

Awesome! Thanks everyone for all the help. I will be replacing the O2 sensor tonight.


----------



## FissionMailed (May 26, 2006)

Quick q- the b5 cables/guides do work, correct? (sorry, i really was curious about the b4/b5 passat, but i can't search for b5)
So this means that you can get cables/guides from:
corrado
b3 and b4 passat, possibly b5?
and possibly...
a3 golf???
a3 jetta???
Thanks a lot.
Also, why does the intake box have the stupid little switcher thing? Can that just be capped off?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *FissionMailed* »_Quick q- the b5 cables/guides do work, correct? (sorry, i really was curious about the b4/b5 passat, but i can't search for b5)
So this means that you can get cables/guides from:
corrado
b3 and b4 passat, possibly b5?
and possibly...
a3 golf???
a3 jetta???


what guides/cables? moonroof?
switcher thing is to warm up intake temp on cold start.


----------



## VandyMan (Jun 9, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_
switcher thing is to warm up intake temp on cold start. 

I honestly always wondered how much this actually helps. I get that it is attempting to draw the war air from the ex manifold area which heats up immediately, but do you think it makes that much of a difference?
I just wish VW spent less time concentrating on this crap and more time on things like sunroof design and spoiler reliability!


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*

haha, its all about emissions. 
Fission, if you are indeed refering to sunroofs, kyle's going to need a neuce, and no B5 roof or cables will work. Only b3-b4.


----------



## Mr. Toes (Mar 2, 2010)

I found another problem on my car today







. Below the coil pack on my 94' Corrado i believe its the thermostat housing is leaking. I just replaced the radiator and am wondering if maybe its bleeding itself?


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

*Re: (Mr. Toes)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Mr. Toes* »_I found another problem on my car today







. Below the coil pack on my 94' Corrado i believe its the thermostat housing is leaking. I just replaced the radiator and am wondering if maybe its bleeding itself?

Ummm No...


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Mr. Toes, I will offer this piece of advice. Replace it ALL at once to elimenate searching for leaks. 
Get a METAL water pipe of some kind, new German Therm housing, all 3 new therm housing sensors, fan switch, thermostat and Samco Hoses. Lastly, replace the water pump and make sure you do NOT use green coolant.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_Mr. Toes, I will offer this piece of advice. Replace it ALL at once to elimenate searching for leaks. 
Get a METAL water pipe of some kind, new German Therm housing, all 3 new therm housing sensors, fan switch, thermostat and Samco Hoses. Lastly, replace the water pump and make sure you do NOT use green coolant. 


samco hoses are optional in my opinion. I prefer stock ones. Either way replace them


----------



## Mr. Toes (Mar 2, 2010)

I just ordered a new crack pipe and thermostat kit hopefully this will solve my problem. I was told to use Peak Global which is yellow i believe?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: (Mr. Toes)*

i hope the crack pipe you ordered was metal and not oem plastic.
as for coolant, you need pentosin g12. do not run the other stuff especially in our older vr6s, it eats the cylinder head. 
dont neglect doing the fan switch in the rad.


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## FissionMailed (May 26, 2006)

Sorry for all the questions- how about a hybrid corrado sunroof cable and (i think it's a b3?) b3 guide? would that work on one side?
lol.
Thanks a lot, again.


----------



## Pueblorrado v4.0 (Nov 17, 2009)

*Re: (dasbeast3.0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasbeast3.0* »_I doubt it unloaded to the tank, otherwise the can would have unloaded as soon as you connected it to the rail. W/ the vac line disconnected, the fpr doesn't do anything different once the car is started Ie: no vac.. You sent that stuff right through the injectors fwiw. 

well i grabbed some vice grips and clamped off the fuel return line and she fired right up no questions. swapped out the FPR and everything is right as rain now. 
thank god for decent diag skills and vortex members coming through with parts on the cheap! 














add one more resolution to the tally!


----------



## ALLROAD VR (Jan 23, 2006)

*Re: (Pueblorrado v4.0)*

Sooooo I took the Corrado out of storage and drove the car around. It seems like my rear brakes are not working, cause my rear rotors still have rust on them lol. The rust on the fronts are gone, the rear rotors still rusty on the surface. Are the rear calipers done?!


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: (STI VR)*

Rust on the rotors will happen untl you clear it off. Hit the highway and pull the ebrake up a notch and get them a lil warm to clear the rust. 
Just know, our steel calipers sieze a lot and that is why god invented mk4 aluminum caliper conversions from ECS tuning.








If you e brake isnt working, also check the cables and underneath the center console.


----------



## ALLROAD VR (Jan 23, 2006)

*Re: (DUBZAK)*

Thanks, I'll give that I try tomorrow.


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

*Re: (STI VR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *STI VR* »_Thanks, I'll give that I try tomorrow.









Be extra careful with your following distances till you're sure the rears are working. That's how I wrecked my '92. the rear calipers were seized, and I slid into the back of a bus...


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_
Just know, our steel calipers sieze a lot and that is why god invented mk4 aluminum caliper conversions from ECS tuning.









I actually have one of those kits on order right now!


----------



## Mr. Toes (Mar 2, 2010)

Anyone have a write up on how to do a EGR delete? I've already searched without any luck. Do I remove the smog pump? how to i plug the line going into the intake manifold by the motor?


----------



## Lorenmws (Nov 29, 2008)

*Re: (Mr. Toes)*

My ZF steering rack is going bad (Fluid leaking from the boots) is it the same as a Passat rack? or do I need to get a ZF Rado Rack? Thanks


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (Mr. Toes)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Mr. Toes* »_Anyone have a write up on how to do a EGR delete? I've already searched without any luck. Do I remove the smog pump? how to i plug the line going into the intake manifold by the motor?

the EGR hole in the manifold is the size of an oil drain plug. it's an old trick


----------



## FissionMailed (May 26, 2006)

Is there supposed to be an open port-thingy at the bottom of the charcoal canister? I've searched, but I can't find a good vacuum line diagram on here....unless I've just searched badly. Anybody got one handy?


----------



## Curt_pnw (Nov 27, 2005)

*FV-QR*

The Bentley recommends some locking compound on the axle splines where the wheel bearing housing/hub slides onto. 
When I took off my assemblies, one side had some kind of blue plastic **** on it that made it insanely hard to pop the axle out. The other side had no trace of any compound between the splines and was no problem to remove.
So my question is should I use a locking compound when I put my wheel bearing housing/hubs back on the axles? Or is the axle nut sufficient enough to hold everything together.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Curt_pnw* »_The Bentley recommends some locking compound on the axle splines where the wheel bearing housing/hub slides onto. 
When I took off my assemblies, one side had some kind of blue plastic **** on it that made it insanely hard to pop the axle out. The other side had no trace of any compound between the splines and was no problem to remove.
So my question is should I use a locking compound when I put my wheel bearing housing/hubs back on the axles? Or is the axle nut sufficient enough to hold everything together.


Blue locktite the axle threads! That is the proper way to do it
EDIT:
Just to add. I have seen axle nuts start to back off over time when there was no locktite on them.


----------



## Curt_pnw (Nov 27, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Blue locktite the axle threads! That is the proper way to do it
Just to add. I have seen axle nuts start to back off over time when there was no locktite on them.


Alright, thanks I will definitely do that. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Lorenmws (Nov 29, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Curt_pnw)*

My ZF steering rack is going bad (Fluid leaking from the boots) is it the same as a Passat rack? or do I need to get a ZF Rado Rack? Thanks


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lorenmws* »_My ZF steering rack is going bad (Fluid leaking from the boots) is it the same as a Passat rack? or do I need to get a ZF Rado Rack? Thanks



Passat b3/4 and mk3 ZF racks should be the same


----------



## Lorenmws (Nov 29, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Your not so bad










_Modified by Lorenmws at 6:25 PM 3-26-2010_


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Lorenmws)*

Has anyone bought an Alternator from Autozone? I was on their site & saw they have a 120amp Duralast Import. When you click on the description it says the manufacturer is Bosch. The total price is $229 which includes the $90 core charge.
When I go to Autozone it's usually for something of less significance. Don't want to buy a cheap part for the Rado, thanks.
______________________________________


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (PrjktRado1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PrjktRado1* »_ Has anyone bought an Alternator from Autozone? I was on their site & saw they have a 120amp Duralast Import. When you click on the description it says the manufacturer is Bosch. The total price is $229 which includes the $90 core charge.
When I go to Autozone it's usually for something of less significance. Don't want to buy a cheap part for the Rado, thanks.
______________________________________

That seems way too cheap to actually have been reman'd by Bosch. It may be a Bosch reman'd by someone else? I can get Bosh alternators that are actually reman'd by Bosch -- a little more $ but well worth it. PM me I'll talk details! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

Anyone know where to get replacement bulbs for the G60 cluster? I need the ones at the very top that illuminate the gauges (they go behind a green shade.) The bulbs slide out of green holders. Problem is, the bulbs are old school style that don't have a glass bottom, but just 2 skinny wires sticking out that touch the contacts in the holder.
Thanks!


----------



## FissionMailed (May 26, 2006)

I thought they were simply LEDs. Can't you wire a new 12v LED in from radio shack or something?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (FissionMailed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FissionMailed* »_I thought they were simply LEDs. Can't you wire a new 12v LED in from radio shack or something?

They are traditional bulbs - just with funny holders.


----------



## FissionMailed (May 26, 2006)

http://www.worldimpex.com/part....html
Surely it's the same as a Rabbit, right?


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

*Re: (FissionMailed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FissionMailed* »_I thought they were simply LEDs. Can't you wire a new 12v LED in from radio shack or something?

i did just that. resistors and leds to the original bases. harder than not to do, the leds have a beam like light shines in a small area unlike the omnidirectional bulbs that shine all over. my end result was the cluster is a little dimmer than before, and when you dim with the knob, they do not go/dim all the way out. it was a so-so mod for me and i would not do it again. at best i would buy the leds already manufactured with the sockets so if i did not like it, i could go back to oem easy like. i must have spent two to thee hours getting the leds to work. and even then, the first set of leds were not to my liking. i used blue ones and was disappointed, so then i used some clear leds which gave the cluster a different shade of green that matched the radio a little better. as i said, a so-so mod.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (FissionMailed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FissionMailed* »_http://www.worldimpex.com/part....html
Surely it's the same as a Rabbit, right?

Yeah I saw those - close, but not the same. I think i have the right ones coming from our VW dealer -- thanks anyway tho


----------



## FissionMailed (May 26, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Ah, sorry, this thread has been invaluable to me and i am trying to gain some good karma with the 1000 questions I have asked.
And the guy who put LEDs in- use an emery board and file them down a bit, that should help distribute light better...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *FissionMailed* »_Ah, sorry, this thread has been invaluable to me and i am trying to gain some good karma with the 1000 questions I have asked.
And the guy who put LEDs in- use an emery board and file them down a bit, that should help distribute light better...


I have used the plastic from homedepot that is used for florescent lighting. Easy to work with too.


----------



## burton198 (Sep 12, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

If i run a stock sized pulley in TT stage 2 chip & and a 3.5 fpr will i end up running rich? car is 1990 G60 other mods include pace setter header, TTstainless steel 2.5with a borla cat if i do run rich will i just need to put in the stock chip and or stock fpr?


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Well since turn2 has been dead for a long time does anyone know who makes a cold air intake like theirs (goes into the lower fender area) that will fit in a corrado vr6?


_Modified by Das.Rado at 6:46 PM 3-30-2010_


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

*Re: (Das.Rado)*

? Anyone know of any CAIs as described?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*

sorry man, we dont do straws. I personally run a heat shield to separate the temps. But I kept the airbox just in case. 
Make one from the generic import tubing they sell at your local parts store if you want a straw.


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Just curious, but how is the heat shield working out for you? Is there any performance advantages with it or any hp gain or anything?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

*Re: (Das.Rado)*

What does it mean when your charger goes dadadadadadada, real quik, kinda like diesel, does that mean the fuel and oil are mixing some weird crazy diesel mix and adding HP's? Moar Boost? 





















































































On a serious note, my charger is toast







Any info on a belt for running NA bypass until I can get it rebuilt? TIA


----------



## Hemingway'sToe (Feb 13, 2009)

*Re: (Sr. Karmann)*

If I remember correctly, which is unlikely with the amount of







I've had tonight you'll need a 59.5 inch belt (with AC)
edit: that's a spoonful for ya...


_Modified by Hemingway'sToe at 8:11 PM 4-1-2010_


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

*Re: (Hemingway'sToe)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Hemingway’sToe* »_If I remember correctly, which is unlikely with the amount of







I've had tonight you'll need a 59.5 inch belt (with AC)
edit: that's a spoonful for ya...


hahahaha, thanks for the drunken spoonful







had quite a few beers myself


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Sr. Karmann* »_What does it mean when your charger goes dadadadadadada, real quik, kinda like diesel, does that mean the fuel and oil are mixing some weird crazy diesel mix and adding HP's? Moar Boost? 











































On a serious note, my charger is toast







Any info on a belt for running NA bypass until I can get it rebuilt? TIA










Sucks bro...time to build a 16v!!!!!


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

*Re: (Sr. Karmann)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Sr. Karmann* »_What does it mean when your charger goes dadadadadadada, real quik, kinda like diesel, does that mean the fuel and oil are mixing some weird crazy diesel mix and adding HP's? Moar Boost? 





















































































On a serious note, my charger is toast







Any info on a belt for running NA bypass until I can get it rebuilt? TIA









Damn bro, where do you get all this luck lately







First the scrathes, then the bumper damage and now this...somebody is giving u bad karma


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

*Re: (RedYellowWhite)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_
Sucks bro...time to build a 16v!!!!!

hahaha, was looking for one on CL last nite, think I may have found one, but need to find out whether itz a 2.0 or 1.8, 1.8 http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 2.0







Also, gonna be calling KK today and may have a fresh used charger lined up, then I will have 2







............









_Quote, originally posted by *RedYellowWhite* »_
Damn bro, where do you get all this luck lately







First the scrathes, then the bumper damage and now this...somebody is giving u bad karma










I know, I need a freakin break dood! Will have one next week fo sho, but itz a secret


----------



## rvag60 (Oct 9, 2007)

*Re: (Sr. Karmann)*

Nice Thread, I just found it so here's my noob Q.
What am I doing wrong here? I can't get these things out.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (rvag60)*

if you mess with that wiring stuff a lot, it will be worthwhile to buy a de-pinning tool.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

*Re: (rvag60)*

already hit you up in your new thread


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *rvag60* »_Nice Thread, I just found it so here's my noob Q.
What am I doing wrong here? I can't get these things out.










use a paper clip. Yer moms hair pins are probably too big


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
use a paper clip. Yer moms hair pins are probably too big

thats what she said?


----------



## G0to60 (Jun 23, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
use a paper clip. Yer moms hair pins are probably too big

I've also used a pair of tweezers and ground them down to fit nice. The wife was a bit pissed though.


----------



## G0to60 (Jun 23, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (G0to60)*

I have a question on power windows.
Yesterday my DS window wouldn't go down. I could hear the motor but nothing happened. The PS window works just fine. Now today the window fell about halfway down and won't go up or down. I had to slide the glass up by hand and tape it shut (damn monsoon rain







).
Is this the regulator going out? I haven't done one yet but I assume I'll need to drill out the rivets and replace it? Or is there a fix that I can use? Thanks. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## crzygreek (Jul 8, 2005)

Question for aftermarket headunit install.
Backround: car is a 93 but built in 02/92 (canada didnt have 92 vr6's) so in the bentley it has the wiring of a "92".
Problem: after removing a rats nest of wiring and whatnot, i've been having an on and off problem with my "ignition lead" wire which is the brown/red stripe... Sometimes it works well, other times it doesn't get power at all even when car is on thus not letting the headunit work.
Any insight on what the issue here may be? I was thinking ignition switch?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *crzygreek* »_Question for aftermarket headunit install.
Backround: car is a 93 but built in 02/92 (canada didnt have 92 vr6's) so in the bentley it has the wiring of a "92".
Problem: after removing a rats nest of wiring and whatnot, i've been having an on and off problem with my "ignition lead" wire which is the brown/red stripe... Sometimes it works well, other times it doesn't get power at all even when car is on thus not letting the headunit work.
Any insight on what the issue here may be? I was thinking ignition switch? 


Deff try the ignition switch first


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (G0to60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *G0to60* »_I have a question on power windows.
Yesterday my DS window wouldn't go down. I could hear the motor but nothing happened. The PS window works just fine. Now today the window fell about halfway down and won't go up or down. I had to slide the glass up by hand and tape it shut (damn monsoon rain







).
Is this the regulator going out? I haven't done one yet but I assume I'll need to drill out the rivets and replace it? Or is there a fix that I can use? Thanks. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Not sure if it's riveted in, but that is def the regulator that's causing that issue.


----------



## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

*Boneing Time*

Alright Experts. Is there a minimum size/dimentions/volume radiator needed to keep a VR running at normalish temps if your not using a stock VR radiator? How about a fan, does CFM speed need a minimum?
All eyes on you


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: Boneing Time (NYCGTM)*

since the VR Corrado Radiator is the smallest of all VR rads...i would say YES. and This is probably a very good reason for our slightly higher operating temps. 
CFM is controlled by the Pump and Aux Pump....no need to worry.
There are many sucessful swaps using other rads, even MK2 rads flipped over to put outlets on the proper vr side. 
what rad are you using? MK1's would be a bad choice due to their size.


----------



## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

*Re: Boneing Time (DUBZAK)*

For a MK2 VR swap. Rad is from a hot rod and needs custom brackets to sit on rad support (the same rad. I was gonna use for my car). I'll take pics and measure it up later when I get home.
When are you heading up north next anyway?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: Boneing Time (NYCGTM)*

How easy is it to change out the radiator / condenser fan in the driveway - instead of using a lift...?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

*Re: Boneing Time ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_How easy is it to change out the radiator / condenser fan in the driveway - instead of using a lift...?

Driveway is the only way to go







Dood, it's uber easy to get the shroud right out the top without having to remove too much, may need to jack up the front just a bit to get the two lower shroud bolts, but thatz about it, easy as pie http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Why didn't you just ask me when I was there yesterday?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: Boneing Time (Sr. Karmann)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Sr. Karmann* »_
Driveway is the only way to go







Dood, it's uber easy to get the shroud right out the top without having to remove too much, may need to jack up the front just a bit to get the two lower shroud bolts, but thatz about it, easy as pie http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Why didn't you just ask me when I was there yesterday?









who is this?








I dunno I guess I didn't think of it - I just came in this morning and saw the box with the new fan sitting there and figured tonight was a good night to get it goin...


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

*Re: Boneing Time ([email protected])*








All you really have to remove is your lower boost tube, the one between the silencer box and IC, fan shroud cover and possibly your upper rad hose, but be careful with it, as you saw the fresh G60 rad in my buddys trunk yesterday







I don't know what you have going on in your battery tray, but you may need to remove it as well???? I had a cluster f... of wiring there and it just made it easier to pull the batt and pushe the wiring over, but not anymore


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: Boneing Time (Sr. Karmann)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Sr. Karmann* »_







All you really have to remove is your lower boost tube, the one between the silencer box and IC, fan shroud cover and possibly your upper rad hose, but be careful with it, as you saw the fresh G60 rad in my buddys trunk yesterday







I don't know what you have going on in your battery tray, but you may need to remove it as well???? I had a cluster f... of wiring there and it just made it easier to pull the batt and pushe the wiring over, but not anymore









hmm i was hoping to get away with not removing the rad hose, but it is what it is. Battery tray is just the sheet metal, and a small wire CF. I'll check it out and hit ya up if I run into any trouble - sounds like you've done it before http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

*Re: Boneing Time ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
sounds like you've done it before http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Once or twice


----------



## CTCORRADOKID (Sep 24, 2003)

*Re: Boneing Time (Sr. Karmann)*

Few...had to dig for this thread again...
Ok hope someone can help me out...and I hope its an easy fix...
Scenerio:
I get in my car last night and my Tach, Gas Gauge, Temp gauge, and warning lights are not working...even on my dash it doesn't light up when I use the signals (they do still work however)...Only the high beam light works saying that my lights are on...if I just turn the key over...no oil/battery light...nada.
The Speedo works...as does the dash lights themselves...heck even the emergency flashers still work!

I get in the car this morning..and find a yellow fuse (10 I believe) on the ground...phew...thinking I just knocked a fuse out...
SO...looking at the Bently...and looking online...which number do you all think I should try putting the fuse back into...16? Will I do any harm if I go by process of elimination? It seems that 16 could be it..but I am always blown away by how random the wiring its...says that 16 is the ""Warning Lights, Voltmeter and Oil Pressure Gauges and Rear Spoiler Power (Corrado)"" But not speedo...or tach...
I do have DDI gauges...so not sure if that changed anything regarding the fuses when it was installed (didn't do it myself)
Not really an electrical guy...and was discouraged when I saw this issue...but was kinda relieved to see a fuse on the ground...leads me to believe that this could be an easy fix...not one of those pesky intermitant ones...

Hope the "experts" can chime in on this...
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by CTCORRADOKID at 9:56 AM 4-8-2010_


_Modified by CTCORRADOKID at 9:59 AM 4-8-2010_


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: Boneing Time (CTCORRADOKID)*

Peep this link for diagrams and info on cluster wiring and fuse arangement, I find it a very helpful resource
http://a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html


----------



## CTCORRADOKID (Sep 24, 2003)

*Re: Boneing Time (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_Peep this link for diagrams and info on cluster wiring and fuse arangement, I find it a very helpful resource
http://a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html

Yea thats were I narrowed it down to 16...was wondering if anyone else had issues with the tach and warning lights...did a lot of searching and only saw threads on Speedo/gas gauges giving people issues..
I guess with ur blessing thats the first place I should start (16)? 
Thanks for the quick reply...


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: Boneing Time (CTCORRADOKID)*

*16 *and *21 *are where i would start. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## CTCORRADOKID (Sep 24, 2003)

*Re: Boneing Time (Noobercorn)*

whoot whoot....16 it was...thanks for the reassurance Noobercorn... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

*Re: Boneing Time (CTCORRADOKID)*

ETKA peeps, please help out a good friend (RedLineNikiR Nichole, post near the bottom the bottom) Thanks!
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...e=102


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: Boneing Time (NYCGTM)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NYCGTM* »_ETKA peeps, please help out a good friend (RedLineNikiR Nichole, post near the bottom the bottom) Thanks!
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...e=102

Sent her a PM


----------



## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

*Re: Boneing Time (TheBurninator)*

Thank you, appreciate it!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: Boneing Time (NYCGTM)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NYCGTM* »_Thank you, appreciate it!

Oh forgot to ask... is she hot?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

*?*

What sounded like a knocking sound coming from my charger while idling??? I noticed it the other day, right before it went for paint, sort of a knocking sound coming from the charger area, so today I went down to the body shop and took off my serp belt and checked the charger on the car, it spun freely made no noise, cog looks fantastic(was just changed by me), So, I thought for sure my charger was toast, but not so sure now, no shaft play and no noises and spins freely, WTF. My alternator however did seem to have some shaft play. Any ideas, shouldn't have the charger made the same noise or bound up when I spun it by hand?
P.S. the charger has not been rebuilt and it threw up a piece of an apex strip back in January


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: ? (Sr. Karmann)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Sr. Karmann* »_What sounded like a knocking sound coming from my charger while idling??? I noticed it the other day, right before it went for paint, sort of a knocking sound coming from the charger area, so today I went down to the body shop and took off my serp belt and checked the charger on the car, it spun freely made no noise, cog looks fantastic(was just changed by me), So, I thought for sure my charger was toast, but not so sure now, no shaft play and no noises and spins freely, WTF. My alternator however did seem to have some shaft play. Any ideas, shouldn't have the charger made the same noise or bound up when I spun it by hand?
P.S. the charger has not been rebuilt and it threw up a piece of an apex strip back in January

my guess is alternator is the problem, but you may get to add a charger as an ornament if you keep driving with it


----------



## jmaddocks (Jan 31, 2004)

*Re: ? (Sr. Karmann)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Sr. Karmann* »_What sounded like a knocking sound coming from my charger while idling??? I noticed it the other day, right before it went for paint, sort of a knocking sound coming from the charger area, so today I went down to the body shop and took off my serp belt and checked the charger on the car, it spun freely made no noise, cog looks fantastic(was just changed by me), So, I thought for sure my charger was toast, but not so sure now, no shaft play and no noises and spins freely, WTF. My alternator however did seem to have some shaft play. Any ideas, shouldn't have the charger made the same noise or bound up when I spun it by hand?


Back when I still had a glader, I had a similar experience. Originally I thought it was coming from the charger but ultimately traced it to the alternator (with much relief). I was able to disassemble the alternator, press out the old bearings, and replace them pretty cheaply with new ones from the local bearing shop. Good luck.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

*Re: ? (jmaddocks)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jmaddocks* »_
Back when I still had a glader, I had a similar experience. Originally I thought it was coming from the charger but ultimately traced it to the alternator (with much relief). I was able to disassemble the alternator, press out the old bearings, and replace them pretty cheaply with new ones from the local bearing shop. Good luck.









It's always good to hear of other similar positive experiences http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I'm hoping thatz all it is, but still need to jump on the charger rebuild ASAP








Thanks Burnsy


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

Hey guys, so I was driving today....and my seatbelt (driver's side) decides that it would rather be at the base of the A-pillar instead of where it's supposed to be, while I'm driving. So as I'm driving a bit more, I hear super fast clicking, and the seat belt is going back and forth, and the seatbelt alarm is going off. 
So the clicking of a relay seemed like it was coming from the base of the seatbelt (the bit just to the right of the driver's seat)...but then when I looked in the bently, it said the seatbelt control module was just to the left of the driver's seat, on the track of the seatbelt. 
Any ideas?


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

*Re: (chrisd1891)*

Anyone?


----------



## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

*Re: Boneing Time (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Oh forgot to ask... is she hot?









LOL, actually yes. Very. But a very good friends GF so, sorry







But I know that means even more push for your sick perverted mind


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *NYCGTM* »_
LOL, actually yes. Very. But a very good friends GF so, sorry










im not asking to date her, just a 1 night stand.








Her bf can have her back when im done LOL


----------



## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
im not asking to date her, just a 1 night stand.








Her bf can have her back when im done LOL

HaHa, yeah, I heard about you. You leave Virgins as Virgins when your done with em


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

The important thing is *I* get off


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

*Re: (chrisd1891)*


_Quote, originally posted by *chrisd1891* »_Anyone?









I'll play, yes the relays are just behind the rear doorcards at the end of the seatbelt track, maybe you heard an echo from it?


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

*Re: (Sr. Karmann)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Sr. Karmann* »_
I'll play, yes the relays are just behind the rear doorcards at the end of the seatbelt track, maybe you heard an echo from it?

Thanks


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

*Re: (chrisd1891)*


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

*Re: (Sr. Karmann)*

Chad I thought I had a bad glader when this terrible noise started under my hood.Very similar to what you have described but then I remembered I don't have a glader anymore! Thank god it was my alternator and just a bad bearing.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

*Re: (dogger)*

I'm hoping thatz all it is, the alt pulley had quite a bit of play whereas the G spun freely, I did borrow a belt so I can run NA as I'm gonna yoke the charger out for further inspection the next day or two, I should get it back from paint tomorrow


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

*Re: (Sr. Karmann)*

That's how my alternator was. It had a lot of play and got worse. Made a nasty sound. I thought it was the motor but was relieved it was just the alternator. Autozone gives a lifetime warranty on their Bosch alternators. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

*Re: (dogger)*

schweet, will look into that, didn't know they were Bosch remans http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Not bad, only $150


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: ? (Sr. Karmann)*

I was going to tell you that My first Corrado started a knock at the charger with only 30k miles on the car. It turned out the Pulley had come loose and the keyway and shaft was slightly boogered. Loctite and and impact cured it.
However, I was going to mention that until I read this:

_Quote, originally posted by *Sr. Karmann* »_
P.S. the charger has not been rebuilt and it threw up a piece of an apex strip back in January


So, you put a different pulley after you noticed a piece of Apex strip was spit out? If you lost a piece of Apex, do not even turn it over anymore by hand. Likely the damage is done, but you never know. Bad things happen usually when the strip comes out. If you catch it right away the tip of the displacer can be fixed. But, if it has been run for any time afterward, the displacer surface will usually be too worn due to the strip being wedged under the scroll.
Pull it apart now.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

*Re: ? (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_
So, you put a different pulley after you noticed a piece of Apex strip was spit out? 

where'd you get that from? no new pulley(still stock), noticed a little piece of an apex strip while I had the top half torn down for the new head gasket... The charger will be coming off ASAP and I will crack the two halves to assess the damage and decide what I will do with the charger, new apex strips, full rebuild or sent off for complete overhaul


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: ? (Sr. Karmann)*

I thought that I read, you just put a pulley on earlier today, but wasn't able to respond until a bit ago. Could have been my dis-illusion.


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

*Re: ? (sdezego)*

Can drivers edition brakes fit behind stock speedlines?


----------



## corradoVR6driver (Jan 27, 2010)

car: 1993 Corrado VR6
problem: brakes seem to be pulsating as i apply pressure....rotors and pads are fine...no ABS light...any ideas?
mechanic ability: very good


----------



## ironmule (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (corradoVR6driver)*

hoping a 96 vr6 5spd passat falls into my lap, if it happens, what else should i keep besides:
-motor: ecu, peddles, gauges, k frame...
-trans: mounts, shifter, cables...
-sunroof
-radiator
also: if i drop the Passats subframe with motor, trans, brakes, suspension/steering (all together) would i be able to just wheel it right in and bolt it in? along with the rear axle beam? i'm hoping for 5lug swap would be easier this way. I know "use the f-ing search function..." just excited on possibility of getting the donor car. thanks


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *corradoVR6driver* »_car: 1993 Corrado VR6
problem: brakes seem to be pulsating as i apply pressure....rotors and pads are fine...no ABS light...any ideas?
mechanic ability: very good


Do you have vag-com? If you do scan it and see if it comes up with codes for the ABS system. Check ABS relay. Could be a faulty reading from an ABS sensor or possibly a bad ABS computer since you don't have an ABS light at all.

_Quote, originally posted by *ironmule* »_hoping a 96 vr6 5spd passat falls into my lap, if it happens, what else should i keep besides:
-motor: ecu, peddles, gauges, k frame...
-trans: mounts, shifter, cables...
-sunroof
-radiator
also: if i drop the Passats subframe with motor, trans, brakes, suspension/steering (all together) would i be able to just wheel it right in and bolt it in? along with the rear axle beam? i'm hoping for 5lug swap would be easier this way. I know "use the f-ing search function..." just excited on possibility of getting the donor car. thanks 


Why are you using the Passat brakes? Is your car ABS or non ABS? Don't need the passat pedal cluster, or rear beam, just swap the axel stubs over. The passat control arms won't work, you will need mk3/corrado VR6 control arms.
The spindles, brakes, etc swap over, along with the axels and steering rack. You will need the u-joint from the steering column on the passat.
Passat springs/struts will make the car sit really high up.
The Kframe bolts up, but you will need a corrado VR6 front subframe.
I can't remember if the passat radiator fits or not.


----------



## CorradoMan1 (Dec 19, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Do they have flat caps for the stock corrado steelies like they did for the 14 inch scirocco ones, i found a part number for those... 191 601 149G. Just wanted to know if they are the same or if there is another part number for the larger rim. 
Thanks.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

flat caps? like hub caps?
IIRC I never have seen something like that in ETKA for a corrado


----------



## ironmule (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_

Why are you using the Passat brakes? Is your car ABS or non ABS? Don't need the passat pedal cluster, or rear beam, just swap the axel stubs over. The passat control arms won't work, you will need mk3/corrado VR6 control arms.
The spindles, brakes, etc swap over, along with the axels and steering rack. You will need the u-joint from the steering column on the passat.
The Kframe bolts up, but you will need a corrado VR6 front subframe.

 thanks, the rado is non abs, so i'll swap the stubs over (good point:thumbupbut can i use the B4 abs proportion valve since the Corrado's is rusted to sh!t and will need to redo the b.lines eitherway. Also how much should i cut/weld/remove the rear mount (1/2"?). so i can keep the g60 hood. Thanks again.


----------



## ironmule (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_

Why are you using the Passat brakes? Is your car ABS or non ABS? Don't need the passat pedal cluster, or rear beam, just swap the axel stubs over. The passat control arms won't work, you will need mk3/corrado VR6 control arms.
The spindles, brakes, etc swap over, along with the axels and steering rack. You will need the u-joint from the steering column on the passat.
The Kframe bolts up, but you will need a corrado VR6 front subframe.

 thanks, the rado is non abs, so i'll swap the stubs over (good point:thumbupbut can i use the B4 abs proportion valve since the Corrado's is rusted to sh!t and will need to redo the b.line eitherway. Also how much should i cut/weld/remove the rear mount (1/2"?). so i can keep the g60 hood. Thanks again.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Keep the corrado booster/master ETC. Less issues than the ABS BS from the passat.
The Passat prop valve will not bolt up on the G60 beam. you will need a G60 one. They are about 85 bucks new.
Don't cut the mount bracket itself. You can trim a set of poly mounts or personally I use hockey pucks with a hole drilled down the center. Or you can clearance the G60 hood support


----------



## CorradoMan1 (Dec 19, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Like this, but these are for the 14 inch..


----------



## G60Scuzz (Nov 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

That would be a nogo on passat rad fitment (at least the B3 VR swap car I had)


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (CorradoMan1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMan1* »_ Like this, but these are for the 14 inch.. 









Give the 14" ones a try?


----------



## CorradoMan1 (Dec 19, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Give the 14" ones a try? 


Yea thats probably what Im gonna do, I found a set local for $10 so its no big deal. Just wanted to know if they would work.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *G60Scuzz* »_That would be a nogo on passat rad fitment (at least the B3 VR swap car I had)


Ive seen it done with AC and a chop down the Core Support. Looks disgusting 
MK3 Rad if you wanna go this rout and not have the Corrado styled rad with kneck.


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

im hoping for someone with the audi tt pedals to chime in. 
I purchased the audi tt pedals and the audi gas pedal is smaller than the corrado one and has a curve in it, is there a secret to putting that one on?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (Das.Rado)*

Time to pull out the dremmel


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*

and bend the pedal cover strait


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Is that what most people end up doing or are you guys just throwing out possible fixes?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

thats what I did


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

So i need to dremel the pedal and flatten and pull straight the pedal?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*

or pay Kyle $1000 us dollars and he will fly out with his dremmel in carry on and do this in 20 minutes for you.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_or pay Kyle $1000 us dollars and he will fly out with his dremmel in carry on and do this in 20 minutes for you. 

True story. I need to pay for my florida vacation


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Hmmm $1000, pretty tempting.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

*Re: (Das.Rado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Das.Rado* »_Hmmm $1000, pretty tempting.

^^Negotiate with Zak, i'm sure he will do it for $499,99


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: (RedYellowWhite)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RedYellowWhite* »_
^^Negotiate with Zak, i'm sure he will do it for $499,99









NO NO, we are trying to get me down to Zak's place to do work


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

*Re: (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
NO NO, we are trying to get me down to Zak's place to do work

Oh, oops, sorry then...
OP, $1000 is a killer deal, go for it, lol








_...and Kyle have a great vacation _


----------



## German Juggernaut (Jan 26, 2005)

*Re: Ask the Experts*

Pardon the noobish question, but hell, I am a noob. 
(Yes, I used the search, and couldn't find anything)
*Why e-codes?*


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: Ask the Experts (German Juggernaut)*


_Quote, originally posted by *German Juggernaut* »_Pardon the noobish question, but hell, I am a noob. 
(Yes, I used the search, and couldn't find anything)
*Why e-codes?*

better light projection, better cut off, better beam, and hell, they look cooler








if using halogens and a relay harness, the light output is on par with a modern car, as opposed to the dimly lit candles the north american lights provide.


----------



## German Juggernaut (Jan 26, 2005)

*Re: Ask the Experts (Noobercorn)*

Why thank you.








Think I'll start looking for a set for the VR.


----------



## vdubCorrado (Nov 8, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (CorradoMan1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMan1* »_Do they have flat caps for the stock corrado steelies like they did for the 14 inch scirocco ones, i found a part number for those... 191 601 149G. Just wanted to know if they are the same or if there is another part number for the larger rim. 
Thanks. 



_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMan1* »_ Like this, but these are for the 14 inch.. 









pretty sure the ones from a Scirocco II will work... the steelie design themselves from the 14" to the 15" Corrado steelies i had on my daily GTI were identical...


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

So I figured out that my indecisive seatbelts are being caused by the door ajar sensor. When I put pressure on the door in the outward direction the seatbelt goes to the A pillar and vice versa. Anyway, I looked in the bently and the only time it mentions the sensor is by saying F144 or F143...but I can't find where the sensor actually is....
So can someone tell me where it is located? A page number in the bently with a diagram of it would also work








Thanks!


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

I had a quick kinda dumb question, but plz forgive me Im a noobie. Here it is: Does a 92 "rado headlight fit a 93 VR6? Im bout to purchase one on Ebay but i need to make sure, Thanks in advance fellas!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

yes


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

someone plz spoon feed me? halp!?!?


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Thanks man! Ima get it then. Let me know if u know someone who has one under $90, i still lookin for a cheaper one, just in case..


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

got it thanks!


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *chrisd1891* »_So I figured out that my indecisive seatbelts are being caused by the door ajar sensor. When I put pressure on the door in the outward direction the seatbelt goes to the A pillar and vice versa. Anyway, I looked in the bently and the only time it mentions the sensor is by saying F144 or F143...but I can't find where the sensor actually is....
So can someone tell me where it is located? A page number in the bently with a diagram of it would also work








Thanks!



the little black switch by the hinges sourrounded by metal and a rubber ring. 1 phillips screw, 2 wire connectors attached. Unscrew, pull out, unplug, install reverse order. 
I paid less than $10.00 per side for the switches. You will not be defeated by this litlle bastard if the experts have anything to say.
Euro Belts so your car doesnt burn down would be the other more expensive Max Power fix. FTMFW








Instead of spoonfed, you just got ladeled. Dont drown in the soup hommie!








Let me know if you have trouble. You wont though.


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_
the little black switch by the hinges sourrounded by metal and a rubber ring. 1 phillips screw, 2 wire connectors attached. Unscrew, pull out, unplug, install reverse order. 
I paid less than $10.00 per side for the switches. You will not be defeated by this litlle bastard if the experts have anything to say.
Euro Belts so your car doesnt burn down would be the other more expensive Max Power fix. FTMFW








Instead of spoonfed, you just got ladeled. Dont drown in the soup hommie!








Let me know if you have trouble. You wont though. 

Yea I figured that was it because it's the most logical, so then I pushed it in with a screw driver, and my seat belts didn't do anything














So I figured that it was somewhere else...anyway, I'll look at it tomorrow. 
Thanks!


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (chrisd1891)*

Arg, the bently says it's a F145 or F146 Microswitch. wtf is that, and where do I get one? Apparently it's different from the F143/F144 door latch switch


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

*Re: (dfuze1)*

Its a NOOB question...Can any one tell me if this is a Manifold cover (black) or is it refinished in gloss black? If its a cover where can I purchase it from? thanks!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dfuze1* »_Its a NOOB question...Can any one tell me if this is a Manifold cover (black) or is it refinished in gloss black? If its a cover where can I purchase it from? thanks!










1) it was refinished
2) it is an extremely rare VSR manifold


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Thanks man for the insight.


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Ok so here in this pic you show in your thread that u "pulled the back fenders" out...meaning that you extended them? How? did you have to add scrap metal? did u have to cut and weld? Dude Im a serious Noob plz break it dwn if u dont mind.









u also mentioned in your thread that u needed spacer for ure wheels, why is that?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Actually all 4 are pulled... I think the best explaination is in the pictures:
Here is the stock arch. Nottice the body line.








Here is the hammer and dolly work:








I need a spacer because it sits to far in now.
I cut and welded just in the rear underside to allow the rear section that meets with the bumper to move outward.


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

hey man, thanks a lot! if I may ask, what size tires are u running in the rear?


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

*Re: (dfuze1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dfuze1* »_ If its a cover where can I purchase it from?

You'll need to sell your first born and a kidney to pay for one. 
Also, is that picture he posted the beast from the east
Only picture I've seen is this one 








And then of course the ones in its current state


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dfuze1* »_hey man, thanks a lot! if I may ask, what size tires are u running in the rear?


205/40/16

_Quote, originally posted by *chrisd1891* »_
And then of course the ones in its current state










It has been cleaned up alot lately


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

You had it up for sale for a while eh? no one bought it?


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

And are those Dunlops? what series?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *chrisd1891* »_You had it up for sale for a while eh? no one bought it?


dasbeast owns it and had it up for sale. He still has it.

_Quote, originally posted by *dfuze1* »_And are those Dunlops? what series?


direzza's


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

*Re: FV-QR (dfuze1)*

Does a 91 Rado's oil pan fit a 93?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dfuze1* »_Does a 91 Rado's oil pan fit a 93?


no... 91 is g60 4cyl, 93 is VR6. just find another VR6 oil pan.


----------



## Roadhog_ (Feb 26, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Can I use a 2000 Passat VR6 for my OBD2 swap part car?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Roadhog_* »_Can I use a 2000 Passat VR6 for my OBD2 swap part car?


ummm... might want to check what is in a 2000 passat... Not a VR6.


----------



## Roadhog_ (Feb 26, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
ummm... might want to check what is in a 2000 passat... Not a VR6.

blah ****. Forgot they made a 2.8L V6.








Too bad. It's local.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Roadhog_* »_
blah ****. Forgot they made a 2.8L V6.








Too bad. It's local. 


early 97 was the split. late 97 is audi v6.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

pretty sure b4 ran all 97 model year. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
B5 started 08.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_pretty sure b4 ran all 97 model year. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
B5 started 08. 


I could have sworn it was a split year. *shrug*


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_pretty sure b4 ran all 97 model year. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
B5 started *98*. 

FIXED


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

*Re: FV-QR (dfuze1)*

Ok, can anyone tell me the best place to order Schmidt Modern Line's? and of course, best price or if anyone knows of someone trying to get rid of ones...Im lookin for 16" 7.5 & 9's Thanks


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dfuze1* »_Ok, can anyone tell me the best place to order Schmidt Modern Line's? and of course, best price or if anyone knows of someone trying to get rid of ones...Im lookin for 16" 7.5 & 9's Thanks


7.5's are for bitches... just sayin


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

OK, so where can I get em,?


----------



## Hemingway'sToe (Feb 13, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (dfuze1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dfuze1* »_OK, so where can I get em,?

http://www.google.com/search?h...rfai=


----------



## German Juggernaut (Jan 26, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Hemingway'sToe)*

So I pulled the crack pipe to replace it with the gruvenparts billet one, and while I was at it decided to pull the thermo housing to replace all the seals, thermostat, etc. 
Found a crack in the rubber lining on the *inside* where the housing mounts to the engine. I'm leaning towards replacing the housing, but could I just epoxy it in to seal it up?
Follow up question: If I do need another, anyone got one?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *German Juggernaut* »_So I pulled the crack pipe to replace it with the gruvenparts billet one, and while I was at it decided to pull the thermo housing to replace all the seals, thermostat, etc. 
Found a crack in the rubber lining on the *inside* where the housing mounts to the engine. I'm leaning towards replacing the housing, but could I just epoxy it in to seal it up?
Follow up question: If I do need another, anyone got one?


















I would just buy a new one. Gap has them for 35 and the gasket is 2 bucks.


----------



## German Juggernaut (Jan 26, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Thanks for the quick reply- I'll order one today or tomorrow-


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (dfuze1)*

Did you just buy your Corrado? and if so, is it red with an RS front? Just curious as I saw one on East Colonial on Sat that I have never seen around before.


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

New Corrado owner with a slight issue. Back story: A friend had a 91 G60 corrado that he has been holding onto for about 5 years, I just bought it off him. Its been sitting in a garage the entire time with monthly runnings for about an hour at a time. That is, until the past 6 months, when its been sitting completely idle. Well, we fire it up, do a once over on everything, and it seemed to be in working order. Battery was completely dead so we had to toss in a new one and power her up. The Milage was at 0 because I assume the CPU lost all power and blanked out. Anyway I drive it back to my place and everything is fine.
Come out the next day to tinker and I notice that the instrument cluster isnt working now. Yesterday it did. The gas gauge, and oil gauge work fine, as do all the indicators for blinker, hazards, etc. But the speedo does nothing, and the tach only bounces around under 1K (even on full rev). Also... the backlights on the LCDs arent turning on and if I look closely I can see that the LCDs themselves arent showing proper data, its kinda random which parts of the LCD are on an off. 
It all worked fine the other day. I checked and the plug in the back is connected fine and is secure, and the vacuum line is connected fine.
Any ideas what it might be? The car still runs perfectly fine, I just have no clue what speed im driving or revs, and dont know milage and time.
I checked the fuse box... fuse #3 for the cluster lights fuse is good.


_Modified by cyberstasi at 1:06 PM 4-20-2010_


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (cyberstasi)*

I just had the exact same problem with mine. Put in a new one that you know is working - it's easy to do and saves a lot of headaches.


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_I just had the exact same problem with mine. Put in a new one that you know is working - it's easy to do and saves a lot of headaches.

new cluster or new something else? im hoping you dont mean computer, because A) im thinking that will cost ALOT more and B) the car runs fine otherwise, and if the computer is dead i would think the car wouldnt run at all.


_Modified by cyberstasi at 2:06 PM 4-20-2010_


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

*Re: (cyberstasi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cyberstasi* »_
new cluster or new something else? im hoping you dont mean computer, because A) im thinking that will cost ALOT more and B) the car runs fine otherwise, and if the computer is dead i would think the car wouldnt run at all.

_Modified by cyberstasi at 1:11 PM 4-20-2010_

Sounds like a cluster issue. Try replacing that. Check all the fuses first though! 

I have a question for you guys, I think I'm going to do an AC delete, is it just as simple as evacuating the AC system and pulling all the stuff out and getting a new belt? Or is there more I should know about this...
And yes, I searched. Came up with nothing.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (cyberstasi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cyberstasi* »_
new cluster or new something else? im hoping you dont mean computer, because A) im thinking that will cost ALOT more and B) the car runs fine otherwise, and if the computer is dead i would think the car wouldnt run at all.

_Modified by cyberstasi at 1:29 PM 4-20-2010_

Yes I meant to say to replace the cluster.


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

last group of questions for today, where would I find the cluster voltage regulator and how would i know if its gone bad?
I disconnected the battery, pulled fuse 3 and 21 (both had to do with cluster stuff) re-inserted them, and then reconnected the battery and this time, while the LCD backlights didnt work, the LCD's themselves had every part activated. And the tach and speedo still didnt work.
Is there a breakdown of the wires in the speedo harness and what they are, so I can do some testing with a multimeter? Also, whats the prupose of the vacuum line?
What years/models cluster can I get... or is this a G60 only cluster. (electronic speedo, with 2 LCD screens)

_Modified by cyberstasi at 2:58 PM 4-20-2010_


_Modified by cyberstasi at 2:59 PM 4-20-2010_


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

nah it wasnt mine. Im working on mine and its black. Its going under the knife next week. yeah I havent seen one in a looong time here in O'Town...def not around Colonial


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (dfuze1)*

Then you missed mine the last 3 years. lol
We meet on colonial.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

*Re: (cyberstasi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cyberstasi* »_last group of questions for today, where would I find the cluster voltage regulator and how would i know if its gone bad?
I disconnected the battery, pulled fuse 3 and 21 (both had to do with cluster stuff) re-inserted them, and then reconnected the battery and this time, while the LCD backlights didnt work, the LCD's themselves had every part activated. And the tach and speedo still didnt work.
Is there a breakdown of the wires in the speedo harness and what they are, so I can do some testing with a multimeter? Also, whats the prupose of the vacuum line?
What years/models cluster can I get... or is this a G60 only cluster. (electronic speedo, with 2 LCD screens)


Do you have a fresh charge on your battery, mine acts funky if my batt is low, also when the car is running, are you getting proper output from your alt? 91 G60 gauge cluster is the only one you can use, without pricey mods or your tach not reading right. I also had cluster problems, with tach and speedo bounce, tried my friend's cluster and everything was operational, so I sourced another one.. Purpose of the vac line is to your MFA for MPG & boost readings... Sometimes those lights act funky as well, may just need to twist them a little to make a better contact, or pull them and see if it may be blown


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

*Re: (Sr. Karmann)*

just found this 91 cluster for sale in the classifieds for a steal, better jump on it... http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4856870


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

*Re: (Sr. Karmann)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Sr. Karmann* »_
Do you have a fresh charge on your battery, mine acts funky if my batt is low, also when the car is running, 

Amen, I've had this happen before, went all back to normal once my battery charged up, though. Make sure your battery is all the way charged, use an external charger to eliminate the possibility of your alternator causing all of this


----------



## German Juggernaut (Jan 26, 2005)

Ok, two quick questions- 
First, I needed a new fan shroud, and the one I got came with this plastic ring around the fan with the motor in it. Had only one tab left, and it seems kinda useless. *Can I toss it*, or should I drill some holes and bolt it on. Should their be one on the other side as well?








Second, I remember this plug being called the 'water temp sensor' or something like that, but couldn't find it for sale at germanautoparts.com- closest I came was this, and the pic doesn't look like it: http://www.germanautoparts.com...181/2
It's the goldish thing in the pic below- the metal connectors are kinda worn, was thinking I would just replace it. *What is it called?*








Thanks again!


----------



## eurotrashmax (May 9, 2006)

*Re: (German Juggernaut)*


_Quote, originally posted by *German Juggernaut* »_Ok, two quick questions- 
First, I needed a new fan shroud, and the one I got came with this plastic ring around the fan with the motor in it. Had only one tab left, and it seems kinda useless. *Can I toss it*, or should I drill some holes and bolt it on. Should their be one on the other side as well?








Second, I remember this plug being called the 'water temp sensor' or something like that, but couldn't find it for sale at germanautoparts.com- closest I came was this, and the pic doesn't look like it: http://www.germanautoparts.com...181/2
It's the goldish thing in the pic below- the metal connectors are kinda worn, was thinking I would just replace it. *What is it called?*








Thanks again!









That is the radiator fan switch.


----------



## German Juggernaut (Jan 26, 2005)

So, anyone know what that plastic circular item two posts up is around the fan, and if it is necessary?


----------



## eurotrashmax (May 9, 2006)

you have a part number on that that plastic ring?


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

Fo SHo...maybe soon mine be up and out so, m hoping i can take it for a walk around u pro's and veterans...


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

*Re: FV-QR (dfuze1)*

NOOB QUESTION....So can someone Xplain whats it mean to have your tires "stretched"? thanks


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Tire stretch is where you are using tire that is narrower than the wheel... IE 204/40/16 on a 16x9


----------



## German Juggernaut (Jan 26, 2005)

*Re: (eurotrashmax)*


_Quote, originally posted by *eurotrashmax* »_you have a part number on that that plastic ring? 

# is 357 121 210


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

thanks


----------



## redrocket18 (Nov 5, 2009)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

Okay i have a question i have a 1990 corrado with a 1993 slc swap i did it myself the engine that was in it before i did this was out of a 1997 jetta. When i got the engine in and running i had a cel that i now know what it was but i have another problem now. When i hook my OBD2 up to the scanner it is saying it cant read it but it was able to before after the swap it just stopped one day. If anyone has an idea what my problem is please let me know ty.










_Modified by redrocket18 at 1:34 AM 4-22-2010_


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (redrocket18)*

Anyone ever heard (can't seem to find any sound clips) a EuroSport catback on a g60?
It's time for exhaust...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Anyone ever heard (can't seem to find any sound clips) a EuroSport catback on a g60?
It's time for exhaust...


No sound clip. But it wasn't as nice as my TT setup. I can tell you that for sure.
Personally I like the sound of the stock exhaust with the mid muffler removed. Sounds really good.


----------



## SLC4EVER (Oct 7, 1999)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_Personally I like the sound of the stock exhaust with the mid muffler removed. Sounds really good.

I've been wanting to try that. Compared to TT cat back what do you like better? Quieter or louder or just different note?


_Modified by SLC4EVER at 9:05 AM 4-22-2010_


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *SLC4EVER* »_
I've been wanting to try that. Compared to TT cat back what do you like better? 


I like the sound of the Stock rear muffler better. But it was a little bit louder than the TT. Not raspy but could have used a resonator where the mid muffler was. It was louder with a different note.


----------



## German Juggernaut (Jan 26, 2005)

Could use some quick advice on this- 
(I know it's not a corrado, but the parts are close to what a lot of you have, and I like you all a lot more then daring to tread in another forum)









My girlfriend's daily is an 87 golf (5sp), and it started having braking problems a few days ago. When the engine is *OFF*, the brakes have pressure as normal, but there is a hissing sound when you step on them. When the engine is on however, the pedal sinks almost all the way to the floor, and starts gripping a bit towards the end (not nearly as strong as it should)
Don't think this has anything to do with it, but about 3 weeks ago I repaired a leaking break line. A few days ago (when the brakes started to feel sloppy) the brake fluid was a bit low, so I filled it, but filling it has not helped, and since it has gotten worse.








It's starting to rain, but I'll be outside taking a look at it to see if I can find anything else. Gotta try to get it drivable by tomorrow


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: (German Juggernaut)*

Sounds like the master cylinder is bad


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_Sounds like the master cylinder is bad

i concur


----------



## German Juggernaut (Jan 26, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
i concur

Thanks for the quick responses- I had a similar problem with a Bronco II about 2 years ago, and it ended up being the brake booster. 
If it is actually the master cylinder, it will save me about $200 over buying the booster. 
(and that is another $200 for the corrado instead)








Thanks again all-


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

*Re: (German Juggernaut)*

92 slc radiator fan harness:
fans won't turn on w/ a/c on or If I jump @ the rad switch.
took a multimeter to fcm and get constant 12v at T4/4 and get switched 12v @ T8e/4
i then tried the meter at pin 4 where the harness meets the fan - I get 8-10v (should be @ 12 or as close to it (pin 4 is the live 12v)).
I then pulled the old tape off of the wires and saw where the PO used metal butt connectors to fix the wire (thought it might be shorting out)
now at the pin 4 of the harness the wire is solid red, but after the butt splice it's solid brown. I then traced the solid brown wire to the negative battery clamp







downline of the PO's splice is the factory splice of a thick brown wire and a slim brown wire
if pin 4 is live 12v, shouldn't it be connected to the pos clamp??
the previous owner rigged a switch inside the cabin and I wanted to fix the problem rather than run a manual switch


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

Where can I get these type of headlights? What are they called, and around how much?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Those lights are (whack) In Pros and have the Angel Eyes removed lenses and reflectors smoked.
They are glass lenses, and less than 1% of people actually pull these off because its usually the only new part on the car. they get 2 http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif just because they look so out of place. 
That car you posted the pic of is one of the very few to do it and not look like trash IMHO. 
Im sure everone agrees:
Who cares what the cost is, saving for Relayed E-Code headlights is the only way to go.


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

I HATE the Angel Eyes myself but these seemed a little different and I couldnt tell what it was. I didnt know if it was the angle of the pic or the smoked lenses. In any event, I just purchased some E-codes, I heard I have to do some re-wiring, maybe u can help me out?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (dfuze1)*

I can help you out. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: (German Juggernaut)*


_Quote, originally posted by *German Juggernaut* »_
Thanks for the quick responses- I had a similar problem with a Bronco II about 2 years ago, and it ended up being the brake booster. 
If it is actually the master cylinder, it will save me about $200 over buying the booster. 
(and that is another $200 for the corrado instead)








Thanks again all- 

Bad booster will make the pedal hard, bad m/c makes it soft


----------



## nofx1981 (Oct 24, 2006)

Just noticed the other day when turning on the heated seats, I hear a clicking relay or something from the rear passenger side of the car. Is this normal?


----------



## SLC4EVER (Oct 7, 1999)

*Re: (nofx1981)*

Yes, that's where the relays for the heating elements are. Mine click too.


----------



## nofx1981 (Oct 24, 2006)

*Re: (SLC4EVER)*

Thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Was the first time I heard them in 3 years


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

bump this thread


----------



## jettag60 (Nov 2, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
I like the sound of the Stock rear muffler better. But it was a little bit louder than the TT. Not raspy but could have used a resonator where the mid muffler was. It was louder with a different note.


that's what i've got...it's faily loud at idle, my gf's family can hear me coming a block away


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *jettag60* »_my gf's family can hear me coming a block away


I would tell them you are just breathing heavy


----------



## jettag60 (Nov 2, 2005)

lol nice....not a worry anymore since i took possession of my house yesterday


----------



## galvo (Jun 14, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Bad booster will make the pedal hard, bad m/c makes it soft

A bad ABS relay will make the pedal hard as well. This happened to my g60. Everyone thought it was the booster.. Little did they know.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *galvo* »_
A bad ABS relay will make the pedal hard as well. This happened to my g60. Everyone thought it was the booster.. Little did they know. 


if you don't specify an ABS car then it will be assumed booster. ABS corrados technically dont have a booster but an accumulator pump


----------



## galvo (Jun 14, 2006)

Learn something new every day


----------



## German Juggernaut (Jan 26, 2005)

I need cheap (decent looking) wheels for the VR. 
I know links have been posted for a site that sold 4-lug Corrado Steelies cheap, but does anyone know if there are any places that sell 5x100s?


----------



## karlorado (Nov 13, 2008)

*Re: (German Juggernaut)*


_Quote, originally posted by *German Juggernaut* »_I need cheap (decent looking) wheels for the VR. 
I know links have been posted for a site that sold 4-lug Corrado Steelies cheap, but does anyone know if there are any places that sell 5x100s?

5x100 classifieds


----------



## ALLROAD VR (Jan 23, 2006)

*Re: (karlorado)*

Got a problem with the VR.








It's 93.5 Corrado VR6 coilpack. Been driving the car for 45 minutes or so through stop and go traffic. When the traffic cleared, I then accelerate to get up to speed. Then suddenly it bogs down after shifting from 1st to 2nd! When cruising, the motor stutters and bogs again! Stopped at a light, the car dies and it took atleast 5-6 cranks to start lol. 
Coilpack? Fuel pump? MAF? Wires? It has new sparkplugs! 
Love and hate, I tell ya!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

is it running rich? 
is it misfiring?


----------



## ALLROAD VR (Jan 23, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

As far as I know, it's not running rich. 
I have to see if there's sparks coming out of the coilpack, if indeed it's the coilpack.


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

Just bought a 92 SLC having a knocking sound coming from behind the access panel for the trans, while idling in neutral. Has the vw logo on panel. When I push the clutch in it goes away. If I touch the panel on the trans i can feel the knock. I was told this is common, but Im not so sure. The PO told me it has always done that. Throw out bearing maybe? He said it was new about 20,000 miles ago. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

TO bearing
i have seen them bad when they are new


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Ok so ill prolly order these parts soon. Was gonna go light weight flywheel, with clutch kit. Previously used sachs but the flywheel im a little iffy on. Ive heard machine the stock one, or should I just buy new one? Any advice?


----------



## ALLROAD VR (Jan 23, 2006)

*Re: (STI VR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *STI VR* »_Got a problem with the VR.








It's 93.5 Corrado VR6 coilpack. Been driving the car for 45 minutes or so through stop and go traffic. When the traffic cleared, I then accelerate to get up to speed. Then suddenly it bogs down after shifting from 1st to 2nd! When cruising, the motor stutters and bogs again! Stopped at a light, the car dies and it took atleast 5-6 cranks to start lol. 
Coilpack? Fuel pump? MAF? Wires? It has new sparkplugs! 
Love and hate, I tell ya!









So the car runs fine now in the morning. I guess when the car is cold, this doesn't occur.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: (STI VR)*

Clean the ISV, Replace Blue Tmp Snesor, Test TPS sensor, check wiring, check coilpack for craks, any codes when scanned?
Sounds like ignition resistance when warm.


----------



## eurotrashmax (May 9, 2006)

*Re: (Perkasie Dubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Perkasie Dubs* »_Just bought a 92 SLC having a knocking sound coming from behind the access panel for the trans, while idling in neutral. Has the vw logo on panel. When I push the clutch in it goes away. If I touch the panel on the trans i can feel the knock. I was told this is common, but Im not so sure. The PO told me it has always done that. Throw out bearing maybe? He said it was new about 20,000 miles ago. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks 

I have the exact same problem i just threw a new clutch and TO bearing in a few months ago the sound went away though so i haven't done anything about it either that or i haven't been paying attention to it.


----------



## GoLfUnV (Oct 30, 2003)

*Re: (eurotrashmax)*

I am trying to figure out how to release my driver side hood latch, passenger side is releasing but driver side I can’t get to release. 
Does anyone have pic of that area so I can get an idea of what it is supped to look like.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: (GoLfUnV)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GoLfUnV* »_I am trying to figure out how to release my driver side hood latch, passenger side is releasing but driver side I can’t get to release. 
Does anyone have pic of that area so I can get an idea of what it is supped to look like.


http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2458932


----------



## GoLfUnV (Oct 30, 2003)

*Re: (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2458932

Thanks but i think you may have misunderstood me.
The hood is not on the car, but the mechanism is broken and i would like to fix it before i put my hood back on. basically my cable is missing what ever *it *is that releases driver side latch, and i am trying to figure out what *it *is. Dose that make sense?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*

your hood cable is either:
Stretched, alignments are done from the passenger side set screw.
Broken clip at handle, wont allow it to open.
This is *ALL* in the bentley. do you haz one?


----------



## GoLfUnV (Oct 30, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBZAK* »_your hood cable is either:
Stretched, alignments are done from the passenger side set screw.
Broken clip at handle, wont allow it to open.
This is *ALL* in the bentley. do you haz one?


I haz the cd version, btw PITA to use, but free







, i will look it up.


----------



## German Juggernaut (Jan 26, 2005)

*Re: (karlorado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *karlorado* »_
5x100 classifieds

Checked for Corrado Steelies there, only thing that came up was a set that looked well worn; was hoping to find something a bit fresher. Guess I'll keep checking back, let me know if anyone else knows any places.


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

*Re: (eurotrashmax)*


_Quote, originally posted by *eurotrashmax* »_
I have the exact same problem i just threw a new clutch and TO bearing in a few months ago the sound went away though so i haven't done anything about it either that or i haven't been paying attention to it. 

I ordered clutch kit and 10lb flywheel today.







We will see if thats the prob and get a lighter flywheel in the process. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

*Re: (Perkasie Dubs)*

Timing chains are right at 100k. Im reading that you have to drop trans to do them, Is this correct? If so. Would a intermeddiate backyard mechanic be able to do the job? I got loadz of confidence.







Any other recommendations on parts. I assume I should beef up the cam situation while im at it.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Perkasie Dubs* »_Timing chains are right at 100k. Im reading that you have to drop trans to do them, Is this correct? If so. Would a intermeddiate backyard mechanic be able to do the job? I got loadz of confidence.







Any other recommendations on parts. I assume I should beef up the cam situation while im at it. 


do the clutch at the same time. Yes you have to drop the trans to do chains. Chains don't have to be done right at 100k, most last longer than that but it wont hurt at all.


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
do the clutch at the same time. Yes you have to drop the trans to do chains. Chains don't have to be done right at 100k, most last longer than that but it wont hurt at all.
 
Thanks. Much appreciated.


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (STI VR)*

i have a simular demon. my car says it is the throttle body. i think it is a bad harness. in your case, divide and concour. unplug the things that you suspect and see what difference it makes. maf, tb, and so on. plug a diag. tool and see what codes come up.


----------



## GoLfUnV (Oct 30, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (angelod307)*

are axles on vr raddo same as on the mk3 gti? as far as length is concerned.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (GoLfUnV)*

Is there an easy way to remove the dashboard speaker grilles on a G60 without a) breaking them or b) going from under the dash?
Should I expect to find 3.5" or 4" speakers there?
thx


_Modified by [email protected] at 11:07 AM 5-1-2010_


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Is there an easy way to remove the dashboard speaker grilles on a G60 without a) breaking them or b) going from under the dash?
Should I expect to find 3.5" or 4" speakers there?
thx


a flathead screwdriver and alot of patience, or a small ass prybar... I have stock 4" in mine and they still sound great...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Is there an easy way to remove the dashboard speaker grilles on a G60 without a) breaking them or b) going from under the dash?
Should I expect to find 3.5" or 4" speakers there?
thx


Get a set of soft prys for interior panels.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

easy enough -- thanks guys. Got all 6 speakers out, replacements are inbound. Found a set of updated dash speakers for only $20!
A second question... what is this plastic thing I found floating around inside the passenger side door panel? P/N 535837323


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
A second question... what is this plastic thing I found floating around inside the passenger side door panel? P/N 535837323


That's the sleeve that the door slide slides into, to keep the water out of the door


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Sr. Karmann)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Sr. Karmann* »_
That's the sleeve that the door slide slides into, to keep the water out of the door

hmmm perhaps I should re-install that! thanks!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
hmmm perhaps I should re-install that! thanks!









I would


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

So I am looking at possibly getting H and R coils. They are the ones for a Vr6 but I would be running them on my G60. I'm guessing the spring rates are different. Will it make a big enough difference that I shouldn't get them? Thanks.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *JamesS* »_So I am looking at possibly getting H and R coils. They are the ones for a Vr6 but I would be running them on my G60. I'm guessing the spring rates are different. Will it make a big enough difference that I shouldn't get them? Thanks.


all coilover companies make 1 coil for 4 or 6cyl VW's
The G60 isn't that much lighter than VR6.


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

yeah, isn't it only 75lbds or so? I wouldn't think it would affect it much.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *JamesS* »_yeah, isn't it only 75lbds or so? I wouldn't think it would affect it much.


yep.
You will be fine.


----------



## Halojunkie222 (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*

Is radiator after run required in a 1992 vr6 corrado SLC?
The fans pull enough power to make its so i cant start after the after-run cycle
anyone pulled the after run and had any issues?


----------



## German Juggernaut (Jan 26, 2005)

Went to plug in both terminals that go into the fan shroud, and found this.








*Anyone know where I can get them?* 
I'm guessing I need new ends to both.
One plugs into the fan motor itself, the other is the fan on/off switch. 
















Thanks


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Halojunkie222* »_Is radiator after run required in a 1992 vr6 corrado SLC?
The fans pull enough power to make its so i cant start after the after-run cycle
anyone pulled the after run and had any issues?


no, your draw is probably the motor itself burning up requiring the amps to run. You have other extenuating issues and need to pull it off the road and overhaul a ton of stuff. 
fix stuff, dont rig it. fair enough?


_Quote, originally posted by *German Juggernaut* »_Went to plug in both terminals that go into the fan shroud, and found this.








*Anyone know where I can get them?* 
I'm guessing I need new ends to both.
One plugs into the fan motor itself, the other is the fan on/off switch. 
















Thanks










I had to cut a mk3 fan one, and use both bentleys t match the different color wires to respectiv pins. The pin out on the mk3 (95 VR6) is different.








Best bet, check the classifieds or (dread) dealer, or find a full OBD2 swap to take care of any other issues in the harness. 
Good luck guys.


----------



## Halojunkie222 (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*

I think i had the same issue in my rado...although the owner before me decided to pull the canon plug and wire in the 3 connections using male/female connectors. The second connection goes into your temp sensor correct?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Halojunkie222* »_ The second connection goes into your temp sensor correct?


Fan Switch


----------



## chodie (Jan 15, 2010)

Alright experts, I'm in the middle of having a auto to manual tranny swap done on my rado and need to replace my radiator. Anyone have any luck or expierience with this, 
http://www.germanautoparts.com...168/2
I thought about going the whole godspeed aluminum radiator rout but I'm not interested in having to trim the fan shroud housing.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

you mean the stock radiator? I hear they work for TONS of miles... just sayin.

What are you looking for?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

bump


----------



## CorradoT5 (Oct 21, 2005)

Corrado 1.8t 20v , MS1 SEM 
I want the A/C to work because until now it was disconnected, what about the SEM ? how does it operates under A/C load? What do I change? 
Thanks (Also posted in the SEM forum)


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

are you on MSnS extra code? 

You would need to add an input for the AC to the board that would jump the idle. Read through the MSnS manual pages. they talk about this. And you would also need an AC harness to engage the clutch on the compressor and trigger the high speed fan relay with AC on.


----------



## bulfrog3232 (Jul 12, 2008)

*What size spacers*

i just slammed my corrado on racelands and im going to get spacers but i dont know what size to get on the front or rear, but i want some poke so fellow vortexers what do you say?


----------



## CorradoT5 (Oct 21, 2005)

anyone knows where can I buy new terminal like this one? 










Thanks


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

bulfrog3232 said:


> i just slammed my corrado on racelands and im going to get spacers but i dont know what size to get on the front or rear, but i want some poke so fellow vortexers what do you say?


 Measure... 

You don't look like your fenders are rolled at all. I would start by rolling them and then figure out spacers. Other wise it is a waste of time. 

Thanks [/QUOTE]


----------



## jesiman (Feb 2, 2003)

Simple question. 
If I remove my oil cooler will a bunch of oil come pouring out? Need to replace the seal and I literally just changed my oil last week. Not trying to blow money on $7.50 quarts of oil.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jesiman said:


> Simple question.
> If I remove my oil cooler will a bunch of oil come pouring out? Need to replace the seal and I literally just changed my oil last week. Not trying to blow money on $7.50 quarts of oil.


 the filter will be full, the cooler will be full of oil too..


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

Two quick questions: 
1: Any tips or tricks on replacing the front main seal on a VR without any air tools? 
2: Does anybody have the part number for the tie rods to use with manual steering with the VR plus suspension?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

iAco said:


> Two quick questions:
> 1: Any tips or tricks on replacing the front main seal on a VR without any air tools?
> 2: Does anybody have the part number for the tie rods to use with manual steering with the VR plus suspension?


 I would almost go buy some to deal with that crank pulley bolt. You need to be able to lock the crank so it doesnt move if you aren't using air


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

TheBurninator said:


> I would almost go buy some to deal with that crank pulley bolt. You need to be able to lock the crank so it doesnt move if you aren't using air


 I've read that you can crank the starter and use that as torque to break it loose. But I don't know how that might work.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

iAco said:


> I've read that you can crank the starter and use that as torque to break it loose. But I don't know how that might work.


 you need a breaker bar on the crank pulley and you put it against the subframe.


----------



## eurotrashmax (May 9, 2006)

Ok experts has anyone did the non abs swap? I did the swap this weekend cause my abs system is toast and i just dont care about it anymore. I ran into some problems, It doesn't stop well at all. I hear a "swishing" noise whenever i step on the brake and it goes nearly to the floor. 

I don't have any air whatsoever in the lines i used a motive power bleeder and bled the brakes a second time after i discovered the problem and still no air in the lines. I have a brand new master cyl. but a used brake booster. I have a feeling the booster isn't holding air and thats why the pedal is going so far down. As for the vacuum routing, i ran a 3/8's hose from the intake to a g60 brake booster check valve and then to the booster itself. I connected the two open vacuum lines from the orginal plastic booster hose to the check valve vaccum hose ports. So is it the booster or is it the vaccum routing? I'm not excited about dropping 200+ for a new booster but i guess i should know better when owning one of these things


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

I'm pretty usre if it was the booster, you would have a stiff pedal instead of a soft one.


----------



## eurotrashmax (May 9, 2006)

but if the booster had a bad seal wouldn't that cause the swishing noise?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

NoCYet said:


> I'm pretty usre if it was the booster, you would have a stiff pedal instead of a soft one.


 This^ 



eurotrashmax said:


> but if the booster had a bad seal wouldn't that cause the swishing noise?


 Did you bench bleed the master? if not then you have air in the master.


----------



## eurotrashmax (May 9, 2006)

How do i go about bench bleeding the master?


----------



## eurotrashmax (May 9, 2006)

wouldn't the motive power bleeder i used negate the need to bench bleed it?


----------



## YellowZonker (Jun 17, 2006)

Ok here's an on-going problem... 
90 G60 second motor (and it's crap) and no mods: 

at 160 degrees the engine will slowly idle down from 1100 RPM to 800 and puffs of black smoke will come out the tail pipe (not thick, but enough you can see it) It acts like it's running way too rich.. 
OK, now this is the part you should read twice or 3 times...Because someone ALWAYS sends me a reply to something I just did. 

ALL SENSORS ARE LESS THAN 6 MONTHS OLD. They have been tested, retested and tested 3-5 times. The O2 sensor is less than 3 months old. 
ECU has been swaped a number of times, and all wires going to the ECU have been tested. Everything checks out fine. 

The car starts up (from being cold) and everything runs fine, it doesn't matter the temp outside, could be 120 out, could be 38 out.. runs fine. as SOON as that coolant temp hits 160 is when this all happens. While driving it's fine and doesn't chug, surge or cause problems, only when waiting for the light to turn green does the car start to do this low idle and chug thing. I've checked the timing and it's right on, I've changed the distributor, changed the cap n rotor, changed the oil, changed the spark plugs, and changed the coolant (to G12). Each time I do something it runs better than before but STILL does it. The car does it worse with a California ECU (which is where the car came from) but works better with a 49 state ECU. Cleaned out the ESV and black sensor on top of the intake hose right before it goes into the intake manifold. All vacuum lines are new and not leaking. 
If the car starts to chug, I can turn the key off, then back on again and it clears itself, and everything is fine up to 10 minutes. 
It's been doing this for a year now, the local shops can't figure out what it is and even had to tweak things to get it to pass the smog test. 
So.. anyone have any ideas?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

NoCYet said:


> I'm pretty usre if it was the booster, you would have a stiff pedal instead of a soft one.





YellowZonker said:


> Ok here's an on-going problem...
> 90 G60 second motor (and it's crap) and no mods:
> 
> at 160 degrees the engine will slowly idle down from 1100 RPM to 800 and puffs of black smoke will come out the tail pipe (not thick, but enough you can see it) It acts like it's running way too rich..
> ...


 Hey John, I will take a stab at it. 

Just a theory but maybe the sensor is testing out ok when it is cold but out of spec when it warms up? Try switching the plugs between the two coolant temp sensors on the front of the head. blue to brown and brown to blue. See if it still does it.


----------



## YellowZonker (Jun 17, 2006)

I'll do that and let you know if anything changed.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

eurotrashmax said:


> wouldn't the motive power bleeder i used negate the need to bench bleed it?


 I just replaced mine and all I did was gravity bleed the master and slave, I have also heard of people having issues with power bleeding the clutch cyl's


----------



## YellowZonker (Jun 17, 2006)

TheBurninator said:


> Hey John, I will take a stab at it.
> 
> Just a theory but maybe the sensor is testing out ok when it is cold but out of spec when it warms up? Try switching the plugs between the two coolant temp sensors on the front of the head. blue to brown and brown to blue. See if it still does it.


 Ok, On my car it's a blue sensor and a black sensor. Anyways I switches the plugs around (Black plug to the blue sensor and blue plug to the black sensor. It had a hard time starting and then when it did it raced the idle at 2000. After about 3 minutes of drive time it settled down to 1100 RPM then slowly dropped (over 10 seconds) to 800 and putting with black smoke. It didn't matter if I turned the key off and then back on real fast it still ran like that. 
When I got it home, while running I plugged the plugs back into the right sensors and it ran fine.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

it should have ran the same with them switched if they were both good. Weird 

Have you done a compression and leak down test on it?


----------



## YellowZonker (Jun 17, 2006)

Yep, everything is good mechanical wise


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

after seeing that would not havin the T fitting between 6 and seven that goes to 4-2-3 cause limp mode when blocked and better response and more power on a Stg 3 g60 with the ac pulled? my roommate has a 90 g60 stg 3 from TT and the PO did the work. and it has a vac leak there but i can't for the life find out what it goes to. and im guess that has to be it. 


any input?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

I ran that port capped for awhile, until I converted to a NON-ABS setup... but I also have capped 8 and ran my A/C and MFA vac off the open port on the back of the TB from 4 being deleted


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## cshevlin (Oct 20, 2002)

I am having a little water leak issue. I think its coming from the fresh air vent on the rain tray. Question is how do i seal it up? 1990 Corrado G60...


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## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I ran that port capped for awhile, until I converted to a NON-ABS setup... but I also have capped 8 and ran my A/C and MFA vac off the open port on the back of the TB from 4 being deleted


 
okay so turns out after re inspection its hole 4 from this diagram. which is the throttle stop. but mine is simply a beveled hole.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

#4 is the idle adjustment screw...


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## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

TheBurninator said:


> #4 is the idle adjustment screw...


 yep thank god i had a Bentley took forever to find. but BBM has one! 
http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/1450/G60_Idle_Screw 


thank you vortex!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

ya, not having an idle screw may cause some issues :rofl:


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

whats weird is it idles funny and runs weird with it open, and with it covered it drives and idles like tihs. so ill get one ordered and see what happens next!


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cause it's a venturi


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## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

ah makes so much sense now!


----------



## gameron (May 6, 2007)

I have a 90 corrado G60 but my question is my head lights are the Euro hook up it has one plug for the High and low beams and one for the parking lights. So i have new headlights but it has the US box plug with only 4 wires so need to know what wire is the ground so i dont mess up the new lights ty.


----------



## zdehoop (May 9, 2010)

2.8l VR6 Corrado SLC 159000 miles 
Any suggestions on what type of intake system i should do ?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

stock air box and paperfilter prevents heat soak the best. 
If your looking for advice on mods for VR6's I suggest you do some heavy reading in the 12v forum (provided the archives are there) 

gameron...
Corrado Wiring 

and you need a bentley manual STAT.


----------



## gameron (May 6, 2007)

thank you


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

okay got another question. 

my 92 vr won't start with the key. 
the ignit. cylinder is good. 
the starter works and is good. 
neutral safety switch is good. 
power at the key. 
power at the fuse box. 
relay may or may not be good. i checked it and it seemed fine and i heard clicking when testing it. 
but for some reason i can't chase down where the part that is not allowing the starter to be started from key is. 

any ideas? 

i tried to read the bentley wiring diagram but not sure how to. im thinking maybe it has something to do with the alarm system maybe?


----------



## dasbeast3.0 (Aug 15, 2007)

You sure the starter solenoid is good? Clip a test light on the harness plug while you turn the key and make sure you have voltage. If you do, and the starter won't kick over, then the solenoid is bad.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

jettalvr41 said:


> okay got another question.
> 
> my 92 vr won't start with the key.
> the ignit. cylinder is good.
> ...


Is your battery charged?


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

dasbeast3.0 said:


> You sure the starter solenoid is good? Clip a test light on the harness plug while you turn the key and make sure you have voltage. If you do, and the starter won't kick over, then the solenoid is bad.


yeah because if i bypass the whole thing and go straight to starter with power it starts fine.


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Is your battery charged?



brand new fully charged optima. the car runs it just won't start from the key, i have to go under hood and use a jumper wire from positive bat. post to starter.


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

a pic of the wire iv been using to bypass the key. *I DID NOT DO THIS PREVIOUS OWNER DID* the rest of the car has a lot of little wiring mess ups from the p/o just twisting stuff together.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

jettalvr41 said:


> a pic of the wire iv been using to bypass the key. *I DID NOT DO THIS PREVIOUS OWNER DID* the rest of the car has a lot of little wiring mess ups from the p/o just twisting stuff together.


Step 1. Crack a beer
Step 2. Grab your Bentley
Step 3. Clean up the PO's mess


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Step 1. Crack a beer
> Step 2. Grab your Bentley
> Step 3. Clean up the PO's mess



yeah afraid i would get that answer. lol thats what i did to correct the fuse/relay panel. 

well thanks for the help! gotta grab some beer and get to work!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Good luck :thumb:

I was lucky when I purchased mine that the wiring was almost untouched...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Good luck :thumb:
> 
> I was lucky when I purchased mine that the wiring was almost untouched...


WAIT... don't you mean mexican piss water? We both know you dont drink beer


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

krak a bottle, make yo body waddle


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

More pics of the Scuttle trap!

Would a Burns trap have hookers and blow to entice him?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

dogger said:


> More pics of the Scuttle trap!
> 
> Would a Burns trap have hookers and blow to entice him?


HAHA a bit more elaborate, but yes.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> HAHA a bit more elaborate, but yes.


HAHA, I'm enticed


----------



## paulytits (Jun 13, 2007)

so exactly how easy is it to install these shifter bushings? i havent got a clue.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

paulytits said:


> so exactly how easy is it to install these shifter bushings? i havent got a clue.


should take you about 30 minutes. pretty simple.


----------



## THECISAG60 (May 14, 2010)

Here's a stumper for ya. When the G60 is warmed up after a good run. After shut down it'll fire up right after no problem. If you wait say 20 - 30 minutes it'll fire up no problem. But if anywhere between say 10 to 20 minutes (like the amount of time to grab some groceries) I come out and and it'll fire up and run like a 5.0L if I get on the gas and get the RPM's up to 3000 it'll rev rough for a few seconds then it clears it's throat an runs smooth again.... I'm thinking dripping injectors?/vapour lock in the fuel lines(no fuel pump after run)? I can't tell it it's no gas or to much. 

Any insight is appreciated.


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

TheBurninator said:


> HAHA a bit more elaborate, but yes.


Elaborate and expensive too! 

What would a Flatt trap be? Some Tool CD's?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

THECISAG60 said:


> Here's a stumper for ya. When the G60 is warmed up after a good run. After shut down it'll fire up right after no problem. If you wait say 20 - 30 minutes it'll fire up no problem. But if anywhere between say 10 to 20 minutes (like the amount of time to grab some groceries) I come out and and it'll fire up and run like a 5.0L if I get on the gas and get the RPM's up to 3000 it'll rev rough for a few seconds then it clears it's throat an runs smooth again.... I'm thinking dripping injectors?/vapour lock in the fuel lines(no fuel pump after run)? I can't tell it it's no gas or to much.
> 
> Any insight is appreciated.


Replace blue coolant temp sensor and the spark plugs. 



dogger said:


> Elaborate and expensive too!
> 
> What would a Flatt trap be? Some Tool CD's?


and maybe a tattoo gun


----------



## ALLROAD VR (Jan 23, 2006)

DUBZAK said:


> Clean the ISV, Replace Blue Tmp Snesor, Test TPS sensor, check wiring, check coilpack for craks, any codes when scanned?
> Sounds like ignition resistance when warm.


Okay, I got it scanned and these codes came up. *00513* and *00515*.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

ALLROAD VR said:


> Okay, I got it scanned and these codes came up. *00513* and *00515*.


Crank position sensor and cam position sensor respectively


----------



## THECISAG60 (May 14, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> Replace blue coolant temp sensor and the spark plugs.
> 
> 
> As far as I remember the blue coolant temp sensor doesn't have many miles on it and either does the recommended platinum plugs for the G60. But i'll get a new blue temp sensor cause it's either now or some other time in the future i'll need it and have a look at the plugs. Thanks for the feedback!
> ...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

THECISAG60 said:


> TheBurninator said:
> 
> 
> > Replace blue coolant temp sensor and the spark plugs.
> ...


----------



## THECISAG60 (May 14, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> I have seen coolant temp sensors DOA. Not uncommon.


True, So you figure the computer doesn't know the temp of the engine and it's starting as a cold start even though the engine is warmed?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

THECISAG60 said:


> True, So you figure the computer doesn't know the temp of the engine and it's starting as a cold start even though the engine is warmed?


kind of.

When the temp sensors go bad they tell the ECU to dump fuel.


----------



## THECISAG60 (May 14, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> kind of.
> 
> When the temp sensors go bad they tell the ECU to dump fuel.


That's what I thought may have been happening... It was loading up. Well I get a new one in there and make sure the plugs are in order! Hopefully this disease is cured.


----------



## THECISAG60 (May 14, 2010)

Here's another question. How do you know how to set up the cog belt on the G60 supercharger? Does it matter where it's positioned? I've never rebuilt one but I have an extra one I've acquired that I was going to attempt to rebuild as a spare, currently it doesn't have the belt on it so I can't even mark off the position.


----------



## Slowrrado (Jan 13, 2004)

Going to be showing some love to the VR. Have timing chain kit, clutch and flywheel, mk4 head gasket and ARP bolt kit. I have my bently to lend me a hand but with this new search i cant seem to find any of the HOW TOs i was reading up on. Do any of you have some good threads regarding this that i can check out? Also my stupid for some reason the fans are only hitting one speed and thats it. Ill look into that as i have her appart.


----------



## ALLROAD VR (Jan 23, 2006)

TheBurninator said:


> Crank position sensor and cam position sensor respectively


Are they the same part? 

This what came up with Google search, Part number: 021 907 601 A


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

no, crank position sensor is on the block, cam sensor is on the head. two different parts.

crank sensor is also called engine speed sensor.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

THECISAG60 said:


> Here's another question. How do you know how to set up the cog belt on the G60 supercharger? Does it matter where it's positioned? I've never rebuilt one but I have an extra one I've acquired that I was going to attempt to rebuild as a spare, currently it doesn't have the belt on it so I can't even mark off the position.



Just posted COG timing pics in the G60 forum :thumb:


----------



## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

*Hood problem*

The right side of my 1992 corrado VR6 is not opening. The left side does but not the right. Please tell me how to fix this because it is frustrating me and i'd rather not take it to a shop if i can fix it myself


----------



## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

The left side of my hood won't open, the right side does but not the left. Please tell me how to fix this beaacuse it frustrates me and i'd rather not take it to a shop if i can fix it myself


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

bpodlesnik said:


> The left side of my hood won't open, the right side does but not the left. Please tell me how to fix this beaacuse it frustrates me and i'd rather not take it to a shop if i can fix it myself


Didn't you get reply to your other thread


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## THECISAG60 (May 14, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Just posted COG timing pics in the G60 forum :thumb:


That's excellent!! Thanks!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

No problem :thumb:

As far as the hood not opening properly sounds like a tension problem with your cable, re-tighten (one adjustment on the pass side) it and have a friend help you to be sure the springs are fully open in the holes


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

hey guys how about an ignition switch diy


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## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> No problem :thumb:
> 
> As far as the hood not opening properly sounds like a tension problem with your cable, re-tighten (one adjustment on the pass side) it and have a friend help you to be sure the springs are fully open in the holes


How am i supposed to get to the cable? its not the easiest place to reach.


----------



## ebaradas (Jun 23, 2009)

Corrado engine stand question. I bought an engine stand from Harbor Freight yesterday and can't seem to make it work. Any suggestion or do I have to buy it from another store? thanks in advance.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

bpodlesnik said:


> How am i supposed to get to the cable? its not the easiest place to reach.


does your hood open at all? 

If so, there is a little horn shaped piece right below the top of your rad support, behind your pass headlight, with a piano wire sticking out of it, there is a 7mm screw that will need to be loosened on that piece, grip the piano wire with a pair of vice grips and pull, not too hard, just to get the slack out, push the horn shaped piece toward the driver side and tighten, then verify latch clearances with a friend pulling on the hood pull lever and you look into the latch holes to be sure the latch is completely clear on both sides before you close your hood again.

If not, have a friend push down and pull up on the corner that won't open, while you pull the hood pull lever. If that does not work, you will have to remove your grill, pushing down on the grill at the top, trying not to break the tabs, but you may have to. Get a coat hanger and locate the little round lever kinda behind the headlight, on the rad support vertical, loop the coat hanger around it and pull, hood WILL open if you do it right.


----------



## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> does your hood open at all?
> 
> If so, there is a little horn shaped piece right below the top of your rad support, behind your pass headlight, with a piano wire sticking out of it, there is a 7mm screw that will need to be loosened on that piece, grip the piano wire with a pair of vice grips and pull, not too hard, just to get the slack out, push the horn shaped piece toward the driver side and tighten, then verify latch clearances with a friend pulling on the hood pull lever and you look into the latch holes to be sure the latch is completely clear on both sides before you close your hood again.
> 
> If not, have a friend push down and pull up on the corner that won't open, while you pull the hood pull lever. If that does not work, you will have to remove your grill, pushing down on the grill at the top, trying not to break the tabs, but you may have to. Get a coat hanger and locate the little round lever kinda behind the headlight, on the rad support vertical, loop the coat hanger around it and pull, hood WILL open if you do it right.


Tank you so much!!!!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

:thumb:


----------



## JT424 (May 17, 2010)

Hi i'm new here and i am looking at buying a corrado,
i would just like to know any problems to look out for when buying a corrado


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

JT424 said:


> Hi i'm new here and i am looking at buying a corrado,
> i would just like to know any problems to look out for when buying a corrado


check out the FAQ at the top of the forum. There is some decent info there.

Basically check it like you would a normal car, but also make sure the spoiler works, and the sunroof. Try to test everything you can on it.


----------



## Cor32rado (Jun 5, 2006)

> Did you bench bleed the master?


First off what is "bench bleed"?

Next...I am in the process of bleeding my brakes, and in the Bentley, it seems that in these cars you bleed the front and rears separately, not farthest from the brake booster working to closest to the booster. I thought we bled the system fairly completely the other day but my pedal is rock hard, and the car is not doing too much braking.... I need to take my car in to get the emissions checked soon, but with the brakes like this I do not want to take it on the road. Is there a writeup/DIY somewhere for bleeding the corrado system? I have a hand pump bleeder, and seemingly all the tools I need to do this, i just need a little help from the experts.... So on that note, can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> check out the FAQ at the top of the forum. There is some decent info there.
> .


FAQ has not been implemented yet, basic car buying skills may apply...



Cor32rado said:


> First off what is "bench bleed"?
> 
> Next...I am in the process of bleeding my brakes, and in the Bentley, it seems that in these cars you bleed the front and rears separately, not farthest from the brake booster working to closest to the booster. I thought we bled the system fairly completely the other day but my pedal is rock hard, and the car is not doing too much braking.... I need to take my car in to get the emissions checked soon, but with the brakes like this I do not want to take it on the road. Is there a writeup/DIY somewhere for bleeding the corrado system? I have a hand pump bleeder, and seemingly all the tools I need to do this, i just need a little help from the experts.... So on that note, can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks!


Bench bleed is exactly what it sounds like, bleeding the MC out of the car... What I did was start at the farthest corners and proceed to the closest, I hand bled, oldschool style, not with a bleeder, on three C's recently and they all work great and completely bled in about twenty mins


----------



## Battleaxesatdawn (Apr 6, 2009)

I was wondering if anyone knew definitively all the parts required to do a 4X100 to 5X100 swap on a 1991 corrado g6o. I have searched around but come up with poor results. A few pages people state they had to change sub-frames/axles/spindles and such. Myself and a friend were thinking that it only required the front hub and front and rear brakes, anyone done this before?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Battleaxesatdawn said:


> I was wondering if anyone knew definitively all the parts required to do a 4X100 to 5X100 swap on a 1991 corrado g6o. I have searched around but come up with poor results. A few pages people state they had to change sub-frames/axles/spindles and such. Myself and a friend were thinking that it only required the front hub and front and rear brakes, anyone done this before?


There are different ways to do it. A few places make conversion kits but if you want to use all factory parts and enjoy the plus suspension then you will need

control arms, spindles, balljoints, rack, front and rear calipers, and axles


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

you need all the stuff you have listed, lol no you cant just swap hubs/brakes the suspension is WIDER on VR6's.

Pretty much you need a swap car. Passat or Corrado VR front crossmember, or its not happening.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> you need all the stuff you have listed, lol no you cant just swap hubs/brakes the suspension is WIDER on VR6's.
> 
> Pretty much you need a swap car. Passat or Corrado VR front crossmember, or its not happening.


Well... you can use a conversion hub and rotors that are redrilled to retain non plus suspension.

But to do it correctly all the parts listed...


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

that hub conversion is for people who like to cut corners. lol

or have bad ass 5x100 wheels and dont want a true +suspension like burn said.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> that hub conversion is for people who like to cut corners. lol
> 
> or have bad ass 5x100 wheels and dont want a true +suspension like burn said.


all I have to say is +suspension makes all the world in difference in how the car handles and rides. Night and day!


----------



## Battleaxesatdawn (Apr 6, 2009)

b3 or b4 passat stuff?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

front crossmember from either b3 or b4 as long as its from a VR6. However the k frame youll need a mk3 one and VR6 control arms which are also longer than the 2.0 mk3's.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

you dont need to swap k-frames unless you want to swapmount brackets style


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

correct, I am assuming he wants the spec to be complete vr including mounts? way better IMHO.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

I haven't rode or driven a + suspension crossover, but find it hard to believe it changes up the geometry much to actually have that much of a noted difference, what are we talking, + 10mm, big feckin whoop


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I haven't rode or driven a + suspension crossover, but find it hard to believe it changes up the geometry much to actually have that much of a noted difference, what are we talking, + 10mm, big feckin whoop



wider, but the increased caster helps a ton! Makes a much more stable car


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

I am still skeptical, although increase caster makes sense because of the heavy VR forward motor, but you do not have the weight to plant the front end to make it have the better "highway" feel, and I do not believe a VR plus G60 will out handle a non-modded G60 or feel that there is enough difference to justify the mod, like will said, by taking the easy way out :screwy: I would not personally do a plus mod on a G for driveability, only style, but with the new hub and disk combo available by 1552, there is no need, only street cred...(or rather vortex stat)


----------



## paulytits (Jun 13, 2007)

so which bolts do i remove to get to the shifter bracket to install these bushings? still haven't gotten around to it and i gotta see if these will help with all that slop already. anyone have a diagram or can direct me to a thread explaining it?


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

so i want to mount my eurotub finally... 2 questions.
A) double sided sticky tap to mount tub?
B) should I or should i Not use a europlate frame to mount a europlate in my tub?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

scuttle......first you hate my wheels.....second you hate my suspension?  

Ask g60ing what its like with the better mounts, plus suspension with a TDI swap. Its like having more than VR6 torque with the center of gravity ofered by the placement in the bay of the 4 cyl motors, with the wider track. That my friend is a win/win. 

1broken:

OEM uses double sided tape, the pegs will break so use extra so it stays. 
As for the tagbracket, its really 100% your choice. do you want to drill holes in the plate to mount it or use a frame? .


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

I believe the plus suspension is better. Ever since I first drove a VR I noticed how much better the front end feels on it versus a G60. It can't just be the weight of the VR motor. Kyle said before its the difference between a MK2 ride and more like a BMW. Hoping to do this upgrade someday!

Scuttle's become a skeptic lately...


----------



## twael1985 (Sep 4, 2009)

*ok here is one for you*

i posted this on my own thread, but i kinda like the experts thread idea.

the car is a 91 g60

ok every time i start my car in the morning it never starts from the first time. it makes a miss-fire noise then cuts out. then when i try again i get a bit of smoke coming out of the exhaust. also every time i give it gas it acts like it wants to die (sometimes it does). and when i rev it up to about 3000 then let the gas peddle go, it dies. is the starting/smoke problem related to the car dying or what could it be. by the way i checked the compression and it was good just had a new head from the dealer put on about 5000 miles ago. could it be injectors, isv? thanks everyone for the help


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

haha, start the diagnosis at the cheapest, and work your way up. 

blue coolant temp sensor, distributor, ecu, fuel pump, plugs, wires, 02, relays ect.....what have you checked replaced? Anything? The list can go on and Im not typing all that.

You do realize that such a general issue of not starting being diagnosed over the internetz is almost impossible right? We might be able to narrow some items down but if you had to take it to the dealer for a new head, and its not running right still, take it back and ask wtf? idk....timing being off might also cause issues and whatever dealer you took it too hs ametuers if thats the case. 

check all that stuff


----------



## twael1985 (Sep 4, 2009)

yea i should have pointed out that i replaced everything on that car from sensors, pumps (i really mean every sensor and pump), distributor, O2. the only things i didn't change yet are: ecu, injectors, isv. the dealer i took it to ran out of business (go figure) so i cant take it back there. the exhaust manifold is leaking, could that have something to do with it? i will take it to another dealer next week but i'm just trying to see if anyone had a similar problem and got it fixed so they can save me the 2 hour drive to the dealer.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> scuttle......first you hate my wheels.....second you hate my suspension?
> 
> Ask g60ing what its like with the better mounts, plus suspension with a TDI swap. Its like having more than VR6 torque with the center of gravity ofered by the placement in the bay of the 4 cyl motors, with the wider track. That my friend is a win/win. .


No, I agree about the VR riding and driving better than a G60 (but not cornering  ), as far as the "BMW" feel, but I believe it is entirely due to engine weight not a difference of a couple degrees of caster and 10mm wider track is all I'm saying...


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

DUBZAK said:


> scuttle......first you hate my wheels.....second you hate my suspension?
> 
> Ask g60ing what its like with the better mounts, plus suspension with a TDI swap. Its like having more than VR6 torque with the center of gravity ofered by the placement in the bay of the 4 cyl motors, with the wider track. That my friend is a win/win.
> 
> ...


 im not sure how the bracket stays onto the eurotub though.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

frame just gets screwed in to the tub so you are making holes either way.


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## THECISAG60 (May 14, 2010)

skaterazn said:


> _Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Anyone have a how-to or tips on lubricating the spoiler? Mine works fine but right when its at the top makes a nasty squeaking noise. I tried white grease on the "posts" but to no avail...
> How do I lube up my spoiler?!?
> 
> 
> ...


I'm going back into the archives here BUT... When you get into the spoiler job here via this link, is there parts available? I have a feeling my problem is going to ba a broken cable when I get it apart. I disconnected the spoiler years ago but I'm inspired to pull it apart now. My symptom was the spoiler would raise but on the pass side it would lower in "steps" like the drivers side was pulling down. Cable I think from what i've read??


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

No reall way to tell until its apart. I personally have yet to do this, but have seen weird things happen in there. 

If you can buy a working assembly, and swap it, then rebuild and sell your old one, that might work out nicely.


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## THECISAG60 (May 14, 2010)

I'll get it out then see what I'm up against. How many of these working assemblies do you think may be floating around out there?


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## harleybrown4160 (May 2, 2009)

*Lysholm install help and how tos*

So my car is a 90 G60 with all the right stuff TT stage 2 chip beefed fpr isv reroute and TT header with high flow cat and full 3in exhaust courtesy of Kurtis at Mandrel Bends five speed car with a peloquin and a TT litewt. flywheel and stage 2 clutch. Thats the gist of it now I bought this really cool gizmo called a Lysholm and it was a stage four kit used. Got it cheap on here and now I am trying to put it all together problem is no instructions at all and no help from previous owner and no help from BBM. I have the cam and the stage 4 chip and no idea what to do or watch out for or make sure of. I have the Gladder off and have fitted it up sort of I am also going to a front mount intercooler and custom front end courtesy of dubtech so I know about the plumbing issues I will face but....... Pretty much any help is needed as far as what to definately not do and what to make sure of. Thanks!


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

harleybrown4160 said:


> So my car is a 90 G60 with all the right stuff TT stage 2 chip beefed fpr isv reroute and TT header with high flow cat and full 3in exhaust courtesy of Kurtis at Mandrel Bends five speed car with a peloquin and a TT litewt. flywheel and stage 2 clutch. Thats the gist of it now I bought this really cool gizmo called a Lysholm and it was a stage four kit used. Got it cheap on here and now I am trying to put it all together problem is no instructions at all and no help from previous owner and no help from BBM. I have the cam and the stage 4 chip and no idea what to do or watch out for or make sure of. I have the Gladder off and have fitted it up sort of I am also going to a front mount intercooler and custom front end courtesy of dubtech so I know about the plumbing issues I will face but....... Pretty much any help is needed as far as what to definately not do and what to make sure of. Thanks!


Make sure to go down and pick yourself up a good set of earplugs :rofl: My suggestion is to look at some pictures, there are plenty of lysholm charger setups that slipped into the G60 pic thread


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## harleybrown4160 (May 2, 2009)

*hmmm*



reignofterror said:


> _Quote, originally posted by *dasbeast3.0* »_and miss. raena... hot chicks are ALWAYS allowed to make new threads. that is the exception. doesnt matter what they ask. as long as they send me a naked pic in a c for proof.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


well if your in here lookin for help and you own a rado chances are pretty good your not a three hundred pounder anyway........


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## harleybrown4160 (May 2, 2009)

*das noiz*



Sr. Karmann said:


> Make sure to go down and pick yourself up a good set of earplugs :rofl: My suggestion is to look at some pictures, there are plenty of lysholm charger setups that slipped into the G60 pic thread


no earplugs for me I've been a strip club d.j. for over twenty years I can barely hear anymore anyway so the louder the better who cares if the ricers think they got beat by a fire truck!


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## harleybrown4160 (May 2, 2009)

*oil temp*

My G60 had been running very hot on the oil temp and since I have no water temp gauge that is my main info system other than pressure and boost. I installed a Volvo oil cooler that I got here real reasonable I bought the Mocal thermo plate from BBM and now there is a world of difference my oil rarely gets over 190 and the cooler isnt even mounted in a full air flow location. Well worth the time and money although the install of the Mocal plate and plumbing is a muther unless you have a buddy with a lift. But since the oil does a lot in a G60 motor with the supercharger I know the advantage to cooler oil is a huge plus. Thats my .02


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

harleybrown4160 said:


> My G60 had been running very hot on the oil temp and since I have no water temp gauge that is my main info system other than pressure and boost. I installed a Volvo oil cooler that I got here real reasonable I bought the Mocal thermo plate from BBM and now there is a world of difference my oil rarely gets over 190 and the cooler isnt even mounted in a full air flow location. Well worth the time and money although the install of the Mocal plate and plumbing is a muther unless you have a buddy with a lift. But since the oil does a lot in a G60 motor with the supercharger I know the advantage to cooler oil is a huge plus. Thats my .02



Are you answering previous posts from page 1?  and .02 x 3 = .06, I say you shoot for a dime! 

So in other words, OP's quote is of utmost importance! And since I'm ragging you a little bit, why no coolant temp gauge? Just gonna rely on the little red indicator?


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## wed3k (Feb 22, 2010)

what do you think...200hp is feasible?

port and polished head
highperf valve job w/ radius cut in the combustion chamber side
7mm valve and guide setup
tit retainers
68mm pulley
sns chip
isv re=route
full exhaust and header


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

wed3k said:


> what do you think...200hp is feasible?
> 
> port and polished head
> highperf valve job w/ radius cut in the combustion chamber side
> ...


Cam?


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## excreations (Jul 31, 2007)

The car in question is a 90 g60.

The cars been sitting for a few months driven on the weekends every week or so. I've been driving it for a few days, feels normal, and started right up just fine. Last night I tried to turn it over, and had no luck. It has plenty of spark, and don't think that's the issue. I popped the hood, and the car smells like it's running really rich. Again this morning I tried to turn it over, and it turned over first try. Any ideas? Bad sensor?


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## harleybrown4160 (May 2, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Are you answering previous posts from page 1?  and .02 x 3 = .06, I say you shoot for a dime!
> 
> So in other words, OP's quote is of utmost importance! And since I'm ragging you a little bit, why no coolant temp gauge? Just gonna rely on the little red indicator?


My bad I logged back in and forgot to look at the page I was on saw a dude havin a problem I had dealt with on my car sort of and thought I would offer the info and I do now have a temp gauge it was the sender that screwed me so when it gets back up this time I will have plenty of gauges to wonder about. But thanks for the spanking thats allways nice


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

harleybrown4160 said:


> But thanks for the spanking thats allways nice












:laugh:


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## eatsleepVW (May 12, 2010)

*help*

ok so i have a '92 GTI and i am looking to get a corrado to do a complete rebuild/restoration. i'm a girl and a little new to this big of a thing soo my question is what parts are interchangeable with the corrado? like everything...interior, suspension, drive train ect...


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

eat said:


> ok so i have a '92 GTI and i am looking to get a corrado to do a complete rebuild/restoration. i'm a girl and a little new to this big of a thing soo my question is what parts are interchangeable with the corrado? like everything...interior, suspension, drive train ect...


depends, is the C a G or VR? Maybe be a little more specific with the question  

In all reality, not too much interchangeability as far as restoration is concerned, but possible for suspension and drivetrain parts


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## eatsleepVW (May 12, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> depends, is the C a G or VR? Maybe be a little more specific with the question
> 
> In all reality, not too much interchangeability as far as restoration is concerned, but possible for suspension and drivetrain parts




oh sorry... i dont have a corrado yet i just think they are really sexy. when i get one i want it to be a VR. i just kinda wanted to know what my options were as far as looks go and making it faster... like if i could put Porshe interior in it or different front ends, or AUDI parts just stuff like that, ya know get all crazy and different. thanks alot tho!!


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## wed3k (Feb 22, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Cam?


yea, also forgot to add a ported supercharger.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

eat said:


> oh sorry... i dont have a corrado yet i just think they are really sexy. when i get one i want it to be a VR. i just kinda wanted to know what my options were as far as looks go and making it faster... like if i could put Porshe interior in it or different front ends, or AUDI parts just stuff like that, ya know get all crazy and different. thanks alot tho!!


Since it is a VR, the interchangeability fatcor just went out the window, maybe a few items, but you can put whatever you want in a Corrado, $$ permitting, I mean feel free to drop a V10 from an R8 if you got the funding 



wed3k said:


> yea, also forgot to add a ported supercharger.


So, was 200hp a joke? 

I think you should be putting down more than that with the mods listed  Go dyno that sukka


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## Busta_VR6 (Feb 18, 2010)

*Pic request*

Hey all, didn't seem worth starting a new thread for this, but I'm looking for a picture of Arts black ZRP Corrado. In fact if anyone knows of a build thread that would be win too.

Thanks!


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

um noob, try the black Corrado thread. Its within the first 5 pages of the Corrado forum. Art's car is in there.


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## beckysteve (May 21, 2010)

*Can you bleed a clutch on a 6spd?*

Ok, I'm new here.....I have a 2004 Jetta GLI, 1.8T, 6spd. My problem is what I've been told the slave cylinder, but is there anyway to bleed the clutch instead of paying someone to find the problem, I'm hoping that there might be just air in the line and not the slave cylinder. Can any body give me a hand, I'm not sure where to look if I can bleed it. Thanks


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

beckysteve said:


> Ok, I'm new here.....I have a 2004 Jetta GLI, 1.8T, 6spd. My problem is what I've been told the slave cylinder, but is there anyway to bleed the clutch instead of paying someone to find the problem, I'm hoping that there might be just air in the line and not the slave cylinder. Can any body give me a hand, I'm not sure where to look if I can bleed it. Thanks


Is this a Corrado forum or what :what:


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

unless the dimensions combined yes, this is the CORRADO forum. 

We need to have a noob training area where they cant go until they have 50 really scrutinzed posts.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> unless the dimensions combined yes, this is the CORRADO forum.
> 
> We need to have a noob training area where they cant go until they have 50 really scrutinzed posts.


LOL ...seriously, start a thread on that (call it " the Noob camp" )


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Is this a Corrado forum or what :what:


*No MK4 love here Becky!!!*

Wonder if she got flamed off the MK4 forum??? :laugh:

But we Corrado owners are the experts, bawahahahaha :beer:


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## wed3k (Feb 22, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Since it is a VR, the interchangeability fatcor just went out the window, maybe a few items, but you can put whatever you want in a Corrado, $$ permitting, I mean feel free to drop a V10 from an R8 if you got the funding
> 
> 
> 
> ...


lol, idk...i just got smoked by a stock sentra in my stock g60 and that cant happen :lol:


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

learn to drive


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

wed3k said:


> lol, idk...i just got smoked by a stock sentra in my stock g60 and that cant happen :lol:


it's bound to happen, but I wouldn't say that too loud :laugh: 

There is a thread called the top 20 HP, or something like that. It breaks down what the people are running on different setups, i.e. 8v, 16v...

I forget which forum it was in tho


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> it's bound to happen, but I wouldn't say that too loud :laugh:
> 
> There is a thread called the top 20 HP, or something like that. It breaks down what the people are running on different setups, i.e. 8v, 16v...
> 
> I forget which forum it was in tho


^^G60 (aka "the grenade") forum


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## zdehoop (May 9, 2010)

*1993 Corrado VR6 SLC Drivers side shoulder seatbelt*

Hey im looking to buy a 1993 Corrado VR6 SLC Drivers side shoulder seatbelt.... i know that this isnt the classifieds thread but i thought that i might get a few hits in here. post with photos and price wanted for. 
Thanks


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

no posting clasified buys in here thread jacker. We help noobs with technical an advice not finding parts. 

but your lucky, I yanked out the oe N/A belts and maybe have one for you. sending pm.


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## ebaradas (Jun 23, 2009)

*rain tray material cracking*

Can somebody be kind enough to tell me what material did VW used on the rain tray? mine are full of cracks and altho I'm going to respray I would like to know if I should just remove it or I need to replace it. Funny that I don't have any water leak in the interior. Thanks in advance.


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## Roadhog_ (Feb 26, 2007)

Can I run DRC 268 cams with stock springs and an mk4 hg?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

since they have as much lift as the 268 schricks Id say you can, but no telling when they'll go. Play it safe with the upgraded springs.


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## Roadhog_ (Feb 26, 2007)

DUBZAK said:


> since they have as much lift as the 268 schricks Id say you can, but no telling when they'll go. Play it safe with the upgraded springs.


Bah, oh well. Already have springs and retainers, was just hoping i could slap them in now for the time being.


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## ALLROAD VR (Jan 23, 2006)

Anyone got ETKA handy? Looking for a couple of part numbers, for a '93.5 Corrado VR6. 

Cam position sensor 
Crank position sensor 

:beer:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

ebaradas said:


> Can somebody be kind enough to tell me what material did VW used on the rain tray? mine are full of cracks and altho I'm going to respray I would like to know if I should just remove it or I need to replace it. Funny that I don't have any water leak in the interior. Thanks in advance.


some kinda rubber junk, I've heard you can remove it with dry ice and nothing else, but just leave it and order a skuttle tray from dogger 

*That's right, Sr. Skuttle strikes again....* :laugh:


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## ebaradas (Jun 23, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> some kinda rubber junk, I've heard you can remove it with dry ice and nothing else, but just leave it and order a skuttle tray from dogger
> 
> *That's right, Sr. Skuttle strikes again....* :laugh:



SKUTTLE tray? pics please 

You mean I can't scrape it? I'm very much inclined to respray since my son wants a Green Corrado just like he saw in a video game so I guess I'm oblige too.


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## Wirbelsturm.VW (Sep 24, 2007)

Question. Do ecodes run an H4 bulb for low beams? ...also what would you guys advise as far as bulbs go for optimum light output on ecodes? (yes I will be relaying them as soon as I can contact eurowires)
Also... what plug do I need to fit into that extra area right above the outer lights?  ..and does anyone know if it comes w the relay harness. 

Thanks in advance experts


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Wirbelsturm.VW said:


> Question. Do ecodes run an H4 bulb for low beams? ...also what would you guys advise as far as bulbs go for optimum light output on ecodes? (yes I will be relaying them as soon as I can contact eurowires)
> Also... what plug do I need to fit into that extra area right above the outer lights?  ..and does anyone know if it comes w the relay harness.
> 
> Thanks in advance experts


HID h4s for lows if you want output. or a regular piaa/hella h4 bulb. Say no to silverstars and some bulbs are more expensive than HID's, but I got my HID's for $40 on ebay. Plug and play. 

???? pic of extra crap you are talking about. Leveler motors not in your lights? Only hole I can think of.

Did it say "Comes with harness"? I cant answer that one.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

ebaradas said:


> Can somebody be kind enough to tell me what material did VW used on the rain tray? mine are full of cracks and altho I'm going to respray I would like to know if I should just remove it or I need to replace it. Funny that I don't have any water leak in the interior. Thanks in advance.


that stuff is sound deadening. after you scrape it off you can soak a rag with wax and grease remover and set it on the remaining bits and it should wipe off easily after about 5 min


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## ebaradas (Jun 23, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> that stuff is sound deadening. after you scrape it off you can soak a rag with wax and grease remover and set it on the remaining bits and it should wipe off easily after about 5 min



Thank you Sire! so technically at that stage the material offers no sound deadening I would think? I wonder if that material can be purchased thru the dealer. VW must have a good reason that they put it there. Has anyone remove that material yet from their car and you guys share your experience in terms of sound inside the car?


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## gameron (May 6, 2007)

*Question about ISV*

OK i have a 90 corrado G60 with the Lysholm on it. my question is about the ISV I'm running at 1k rpm at Idle is that normal but when i unplug the the ISV drops to around 800 and holds do u need the ISV or is there some thing different u can do? I'm new the the corrado world sorry.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

ebaradas said:


> SKUTTLE tray? pics please
> 
> You mean I can't scrape it? I'm very much inclined to respray since my son wants a Green Corrado just like he saw in a video game so I guess I'm oblige too.













and the thread...

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...creen-Scuttle-Panel-from-SWG-in-the-UK/page10


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## Wirbelsturm.VW (Sep 24, 2007)

DUBZAK said:


> HID h4s for lows if you want output. or a regular piaa/hella h4 bulb. Say no to silverstars and some bulbs are more expensive than HID's, but I got my HID's for $40 on ebay. Plug and play.
> 
> ???? pic of extra crap you are talking about. Leveler motors not in your lights? Only hole I can think of.
> 
> Did it say "Comes with harness"? I cant answer that one.


It didn't come with the harness I don't believe since it came straight from Germany. Is the harness like an extra plug?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

you need a Euro harness as it has the leveler motor harness in it. Switches are not included most likely. Both will plug into the switches and fuse box, and run power to the leveler,the city lights as well as low/high beams.


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## Wirbelsturm.VW (Sep 24, 2007)

DUBZAK said:


> you need a Euro harness as it has the leveler motor harness in it. Switches are not included most likely. Both will plug into the switches and fuse box, and run power to the leveler,the city lights as well as low/high beams.


Gee sometimes i wish they just had diagrams for some of this stuff so i don't have to look like such a noob.  Would eurowires have the euro harness? ...and if i buy a relay harness from him (i think his name is Jeff) would i still need a euro harness?


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## harleybrown4160 (May 2, 2009)

*More Lysholm info needed*

How can I turn my Lysholm charger over 180 degrees so that the outlet tube is on the front side towards my fan shroud. I see easily how the back end billet plate goes on and that would also be where the silencer would bolt up yes? But what I want to know is can I somehow turn the whole unit over as I said 180 degrees and then have a better line towards my FMIC and if I can turn it over what does that mean to the oil lines do I switch them over too from what is now the top line to the bottom etc. Thanks for any help .......... :banghead:


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## Wirbelsturm.VW (Sep 24, 2007)

Does anyone know eurowires.net's phone number?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

ebaradas said:


> Thank you Sire! so technically at that stage the material offers no sound deadening I would think? I wonder if that material can be purchased thru the dealer. VW must have a good reason that they put it there. Has anyone remove that material yet from their car and you guys share your experience in terms of sound inside the car?


Mine was removed when I shaved my bay.

Personally I would get rid of it if you are going to repaint the bay and just use a normal sound deadener on the inside of the car. Much better results


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

So I put my coilovers on and in the front there are two mounting bolts at the bottom. One bolt is fully threaded and the other is only partially threaded. Which one goes where?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

JamesS said:


> So I put my coilovers on and in the front there are two mounting bolts at the bottom. One bolt is fully threaded and the other is only partially threaded. Which one goes where?


both should only be partially threaded. Doesn't matter where they go.


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## vdubCorrado (Nov 8, 2001)

harleybrown4160 said:


> How can I turn my Lysholm charger over 180 degrees so that the outlet tube is on the front side towards my fan shroud. I see easily how the back end billet plate goes on and that would also be where the silencer would bolt up yes? But what I want to know is can I somehow turn the whole unit over as I said 180 degrees and then have a better line towards my FMIC and if I can turn it over what does that mean to the oil lines do I switch them over too from what is now the top line to the bottom etc. Thanks for any help .......... :banghead:


i'm pretty sure you can not turn it upside down as one is pressurized oil feed line and the other is a larger -AN size for a gravity oil return line... and in another aspect i believe the charger was designed specifically to have the oil feed in one location, but i can be wrong on that one... been a while since i had a lysholm...


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## harleybrown4160 (May 2, 2009)

*waitin on John*

Thanks for the info but I dont know on that either waitin to hear back from bbm but no calls so far I hope it can be done some how I cant believe noone in here has done something like this for the better plumbing route for the FMIC


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> both should only be partially threaded. Doesn't matter where they go.


 I think it is for camber adjustment, according to the bentley. I don't think it matters too much but I wanted to make sure. Thanks for the help.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

JamesS said:


> I think it is for camber adjustment, according to the bentley. I don't think it matters too much but I wanted to make sure. Thanks for the help.


says 2 per side on the gap list. etka shows the same. The ones pictured are the revised ones.

Personally I would just go buy a nice set of camber bolts from SPC. 
http://eurosportacc.com/camber_caster_adjustment_kits_bolts_plates.htm

You will thank yourself later when you aren't having issues with the stock bolts not holding the camber adjustment for very long.


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## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

Sounds like someone tried to make their own camber bolts. I don't believe real camber bolts are completely threaded. Mine aren't. They have lobes on the body and only threads on the end.


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## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

Is there an older thread that covers our Spoiler assemblies & all the problems they tend to have?
Mine is blowing fuses now after cleaning & putting back together. I remember reading something
about what causes this. 

_________________________________________


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## karlorado (Nov 13, 2008)

PrjktRado1 said:


> Is there an older thread that covers our Spoiler assemblies & all the problems they tend to have?
> Mine is blowing fuses now after cleaning & putting back together. I remember reading something
> about what causes this.
> 
> _________________________________________


High resistance causes the fuse to blow. This may be caused by the motor drawing too many amps due to poorly lubricated spoiler cables (the ones in the tubes). Even after I completely took mine apart the fuse would still blow because the motor had been working so hard for such a long time is was toast, so I had to come up with a new assembly. If you've already cleaned it out and lubricated it like the Gulf coast it might be time for a new spoiler motor. If this is the case, contact me I have one for ya:thumbup:


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## ALLROAD VR (Jan 23, 2006)

I got a transmission question, from a '93 VR: When I press the clutch pedal, I hear a deep buzzing sound. It's like a metal to metal sound. Clutch slave cylinder?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

ALLROAD VR said:


> I got a transmission question, from a '93 VR: When I press the clutch pedal, I hear a deep buzzing sound. It's like a metal to metal sound. Clutch slave cylinder?


 probably throw out bearing. or something along those lines. The slave would make your pedal stay on the floor if it was bad


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## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

karlorado said:


> High resistance causes the fuse to blow. This may be caused by the motor drawing too many amps due to poorly lubricated spoiler cables (the ones in the tubes). Even after I completely took mine apart the fuse would still blow because the motor had been working so hard for such a long time is was toast, so I had to come up with a new assembly. If you've already cleaned it out and lubricated it like the Gulf coast it might be time for a new spoiler motor. If this is the case, contact me I have one for ya:thumbup:


I was wondering about that. I actually have a spare assembly I just picked up but it's also used. My assembly seemed to have more resistance so I opted to use the other one. You'd think one of these damn things would work!! :banghead: Although I really don't wanna' buy anymore spoiler parts, is it possible to just get a new motor for this thing?

_________________________________________


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## karlorado (Nov 13, 2008)

PrjktRado1 said:


> I was wondering about that. I actually have a spare assembly I just picked up but it's also used. My assembly seemed to have more resistance so I opted to use the other one. You'd think one of these damn things would work!! :banghead: Although I really don't wanna' buy anymore spoiler parts, is it possible to just get a new motor for this thing?
> 
> _________________________________________


A unicorn might be easier to find than a BNIB spoiler motor! It's easiest to just source out a known good used one, bench test it, completely go through it and then reinstall it.


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## eatsleepVW (May 12, 2010)

sooooooo ive read thru almost all 897652875629834 pages on the corrado forum and am starting to learn that there ISN'T a step by step guide on how to redo them...am i right ?, please lie and tell me im wrong!!


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## SLC4ME (Apr 16, 2001)

eat said:


> sooooooo ive read thru almost all 897652875629834 pages on the corrado forum and am starting to learn that there ISN'T a step by step guide on how to redo them...am i right ?, please lie and tell me im wrong!!










with this stuff. This thread is meant to help with mechanical issues not tell you how to get some personality and imagination which is required to rebuild any car:banghead:


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

SLC4ME said:


> with this stuff. This thread is meant to help with mechanical issues not tell you how to get some personality and imagination which is required to rebuild any car:banghead:


some of us may be walking bentleys but rebuilding an entire car is a different story. Think outside the box. We can only give you suggestions for some things.


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

Maybe some day there will be a step by step posted on the internet for everything in life. Until than you might need to use your brain...


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

karlorado said:


> A unicorn might be easier to find than a BNIB spoiler motor! It's easiest to just source out a known good used one, bench test it, completely go through it and then reinstall it.


Thanks again, I'll be in touch if I need another one.  :thumbup:

_________________________________


----------



## THECISAG60 (May 14, 2010)

I've got G60 question for the experts. After driving the car for the first time in 4 years I've sprung 2 coolant leaks. My coolant is leaking at the rad flange (the one on top of the rad on the drivers side) and the front coolant flange (the one that the temp sensors sit in). Question is... are there gaskets available for these from the dealer? My guess is they dried up from sitting and aren't cracked.

Appreciate any insight!!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

THECISAG60 said:


> I've got G60 question for the experts. After driving the car for the first time in 4 years I've sprung 2 coolant leaks. My coolant is leaking at the rad flange (the one on top of the rad on the drivers side) and the front coolant flange (the one that the temp sensors sit in). Question is... are there gaskets available for these from the dealer? My guess is they dried up from sitting and aren't cracked.
> 
> Appreciate any insight!!


dealer, GAP, autotechparts, fourseasontuning etc etc etc all have them


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> dealer, GAP, autotechparts, fourseasontuning etc etc etc all have them


and if you replace the radiator kneck with a plastic one, slap yourself then buy the gruven parts billet aluminum one.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> and if you replace the radiator kneck with a plastic one, slap yourself then buy the gruven parts billet aluminum one.


meh... just don't use a corrado radiator... mk3 ftw:sly:


----------



## SLC4ME (Apr 16, 2001)

is the mk3 really that much better?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

SLC4ME said:


> is the mk3 really that much better?


no radiator neck to break... It tucks under the support a bit more so it is out of the way. No difference in cooling etc though.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> no radiator neck to break... It tucks under the support a bit more so it is out of the way. No difference in cooling etc though.


Please spoonfeed me 
What engine/model MK3? 
Would it fit a G60, or would the "Grenade" still be on the way 

Changing my radiator is the next thing to do, and one from a MK3 would be easy to find here...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Please spoonfeed me
> What engine/model MK3?
> Would it fit a G60, or would the "Grenade" still be on the way
> 
> Changing my radiator is the next thing to do, and one from a MK3 would be easy to find here...


VR6 mk3.

Your grenade won't be in the way at all but the coolant hose comes off strait instead of an angle.

Look at seans car


----------



## SLC4ME (Apr 16, 2001)

I cant believe that i have owned as many of these cars as i have and never even tried to use one


----------



## THECISAG60 (May 14, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> and if you replace the radiator kneck with a plastic one, slap yourself then buy the gruven parts billet aluminum one.


If I go for that gruven billet one, what else specific to a 90 G60 do gruven parts offer that would make putting a shipment up to Canada worth it?


----------



## frescoG60 (Sep 29, 2004)

When I start it after the motor is cold It stumbles at first and then revs up to a normal idle, then for the first few shifts there is a lag in between shifts. After the motor is warm there are no issues at all. Just started doing this, fuel pressure is good, FPR is good no leaks and pretty much everything is new under the hood, no vacuum leaks. I think its the ISV but if anyone has any other input id appreciate it.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

THECISAG60 said:


> If I go for that gruven billet one, what else specific to a 90 G60 do gruven parts offer that would make putting a shipment up to Canada worth it?


^^Seriously :what: How about the G60 billet alloy pulleys (set)...


----------



## THECISAG60 (May 14, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^Seriously :what: How about the G60 billet alloy pulleys (set)...


Dead serious. That's why I'm asking the experts! Thanks, I'll look into those "goodies"


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

dont forget the hood cable clip noob, and really, how about go to their site and see what else is offered.  :beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> dont forget the hood cable clip noob, and really, how about go to their site and see what else is offered.  :beer:


hahaha, you beat me to it


----------



## Wirbelsturm.VW (Sep 24, 2007)

Calling people noob just hurts feelingss


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Wirbelsturm.VW said:


> Calling people noob *puts them in their places*


Fixed


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Fixed


:laugh: and near his avatar is semi-noob.......


----------



## THECISAG60 (May 14, 2010)

The website isn't coming up for me right now. I'll have to check when I get home. I should have been more clear... I guess I was looking for some other items that you would recommend. But looks like there product line for the G60 is all good. Thanks! AND my feelings ain't hurt


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## THECISAG60 (May 14, 2010)

And look at that. With my 20th post I'm a junior member now


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

THECISAG60 said:


> And look at that. With my 20th post I'm a junior member now


:laugh:


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

So i've noticed a problem with my car...after not letting the car run for >5hrs, it likes to buck and hesitate while cold and idle at like 1,000rpm....but once i drive the car


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

1broknrado said:


> So i've noticed a problem with my car...after not letting the car run for >5hrs, it likes to buck and hesitate while cold and idle at like 1,000rpm....but once i drive the car


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

spacers question, I'm waffling........ ECS, H&R or adaptec speedware?????? Gonna need a set of spacers front and rear for the BB's when I get them back from the wheelshop. I've been pricing around and I get about the same $$ wise, but ECS does offer in black, any input or feedback on what brand and where to buy would be appreciated, and BFI offers black lugbolts, but unsure if they will offer the size I need for application and I know Burnsy will burn them 

Thanks Guys :beer:


----------



## eatsleepVW (May 12, 2010)

SLC4ME said:


> with this stuff. This thread is meant to help with mechanical issues not tell you how to get some personality and imagination which is required to rebuild any car:banghead:


duh ******* i said the 'forum' not this specific thread!!!! and i have my ideas but i am new to the corrado ownage **** so i didnt know what was possible and what wasnt.... sorry for your inconvience...damn :thumbdown:


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

Hey guys, so the top banjo fitting on my power steering pump is now leaking :thumbdown: It's torqued to the right spec, so I need to look into getting a new fitting or hose. My question is, what in the hell would cause the surfaces between the pump/hose/fitting to all of a sudden let fluid through? They all look fine...so I don't understand what could be causing it, since there are no o-rings or anything. Any ideas?


----------



## SLC4ME (Apr 16, 2001)

eat said:


> duh ******* i said the 'forum' not this specific thread!!!! and i have my ideas but i am new to the corrado ownage **** so i didnt know what was possible and what wasnt.... sorry for your inconvience...damn :thumbdown:


Not being a dick but reality is that anything is possible with a little imagination, know how, and money.

If you have all three go show us what you got if not lower it, euro lights, wheels, exhaust and just be happy


----------



## SLC4ME (Apr 16, 2001)

chrisd1891 said:


> Hey guys, so the top banjo fitting on my power steering pump is now leaking :thumbdown: It's torqued to the right spec, so I need to look into getting a new fitting or hose. My question is, what in the hell would cause the surfaces between the pump/hose/fitting to all of a sudden let fluid through? They all look fine...so I don't understand what could be causing it, since there are no o-rings or anything. Any ideas?


Vibration over time most likely. Just pull the banjo bolt and go down to the hardware store or parts store of your choice and get copper washers that should fix you up


----------



## eatsleepVW (May 12, 2010)

SLC4ME said:


> Not being a dick but reality is that anything is possible with a little imagination, know how, and money.
> 
> If you have all three go show us what you got if not lower it, euro lights, wheels, exhaust and just be happy


Thank you for the response. I do have lots of Ideas but my boyfriend is doing a lot of the work for me. Here is what he is wondering. I want to change the dash and various other componets of the interior. I know they are often problematic so we are going to change parts of the drivetrain as well. He wants to know if there is a car that could be purchased as a donor just an example a jetta. We are working on a budget and have a big project ahead of us. We know that we will have to modify many things but is there another vw donor car that could be used with somewhat minimal modification to say swap the dash with. Thanks


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

Personally I don't think there is another VW dash that is worth swapping into a Corrado that is budget friendly. There have been Mk4, Mk5, and Mk1 TT dashes swapped. But those aren't really budget donors. IMO the Corrado dash is better than a Mk3 or Mk2 which would be less expensive to find. 

Are you planning to do a motor swap? That can also effect the choice on your interior.


----------



## eatsleepVW (May 12, 2010)

dogger said:


> Personally I don't think there is another VW dash that is worth swapping into a Corrado that is budget friendly. There have been Mk4, Mk5, and Mk1 TT dashes swapped. But those aren't really budget donors. IMO the Corrado dash is better than a Mk3 or Mk2 which would be less expensive to find.
> 
> Are you planning to do a motor swap? That can also effect the choice on your interior.


yes i am planning on an engine swap and am open to suggestions on that as well... i know what i want it to look like, im a girl thats natural but knowing how to make it fast and run well is goin to be a bit more difficult. i have seen one with an audi swap and oh dear cheezits it was amazing. i dont really want a step by step bc i do want it to be 'my' car but i do want ideas from enthusists about what they feel is better or smarter... thanks for the advice it helps alot i think i will just have a rado dash redone and customized.. im going to have to make a rebuild thread also so watch for it and please advise, constructively critisize, or even just look when its there... thanks


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

eat said:


> i think i will just have a rado dash redone and customized..


 Im glad to hear that.


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

SLC4ME said:


> Vibration over time most likely. Just pull the banjo bolt and go down to the hardware store or parts store of your choice and get copper washers that should fix you up


Thank you! :thumbup:


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

DUBZAK said:


> Im glad to hear that.


X2. 

Just be on the look out for TheBurninator, he has a talent for turning girls nutty on here!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> spacers question, I'm waffling........ ECS, H&R or adaptec speedware?????? Gonna need a set of spacers front and rear for the BB's when I get them back from the wheelshop. I've been pricing around and I get about the same $$ wise, but ECS does offer in black, any input or feedback on what brand and where to buy would be appreciated, and BFI offers black lugbolts, but unsure if they will offer the size I need for application and I know Burnsy will burn them
> 
> Thanks Guys :beer:


ACKHEm??? opcorn:



dogger said:


>


*BAWHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!* :laugh:


----------



## SLC4ME (Apr 16, 2001)

eat said:


> Thank you for the response. I do have lots of Ideas but my boyfriend is doing a lot of the work for me. Here is what he is wondering. I want to change the dash and various other components of the interior. I know they are often problematic so we are going to change parts of the drive-train as well. He wants to know if there is a car that could be purchased as a donor just an example a jetta. We are working on a budget and have a big project ahead of us. We know that we will have to modify many things but is there another vw donor car that could be used with somewhat minimal modification to say swap the dash with. Thanks


The best advice I can give is to be realistic in your goals ability and budget. I have seen so many cars get started with great expectations. The builder does what they are comfortable doing first and when the hard part comes they sit on it and don't finish it either because they don't have the money to pay someone who knows how to do it or they have too much pride etc. Ultimately the owner sell the car at bargain basement pricing and loses investment money and a car it happens all too often and is mostly because people tend to over estimate their budget and capabilities.

Sorry for the rant


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

BUMP!

Tired of answering questions outside of this thread.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> BUMP!
> 
> Tired of answering questions outside of this thread.


You didn't answer my question :screwy:


----------



## THECISAG60 (May 14, 2010)

Question... On my 90 G60 I have a lot of engine movement. If you drive in 1st gear slowly and come on and off the throttle the engine raises and lowers quite a bit. What could be the cause? Also I hear a bit of what sounds like a grinding a grinding noise?? I've got the BBM solid front mount with a new bracket. I have a solid tranny mount with a new brace or arm. My rear mount on the passenger side is OEM brand new from the dealer. But I still have all this lift in the engine bay. The car currently has a cheap apex lowering kit (springs & struts). I need coilovers! But I need a lot of stuff. Any direction to look else where besides the mounts that could cause excessive engine movement is appreciated. THX!


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

THECISAG60 said:


> Question... On my 90 G60 I have a lot of engine movement. If you drive in 1st gear slowly and come on and off the throttle the engine raises and lowers quite a bit. What could be the cause? Also I hear a bit of what sounds like a grinding a grinding noise?? I've got the BBM solid front mount with a new bracket. I have a solid tranny mount with a new brace or arm. My rear mount on the passenger side is OEM brand new from the dealer. But I still have all this lift in the engine bay. The car currently has a cheap apex lowering kit (springs & struts). I need coilovers! But I need a lot of stuff. Any direction to look else where besides the mounts that could cause excessive engine movement is appreciated. THX!


 Get a friend to help you. have them rock the engine back, and forth by hand while you watch all the mounts. If you don't find anything then you can try a jack under the engine. If you have excessive movement it's going to be something in the mounting system, unless the engine is actually vibrating beyond what the mounts can dampen.


----------



## THECISAG60 (May 14, 2010)

NoCYet said:


> Get a friend to help you. have them rock the engine back, and forth by hand while you watch all the mounts. If you don't find anything then you can try a jack under the engine. If you have excessive movement it's going to be something in the mounting system, unless the engine is actually vibrating beyond what the mounts can dampen.


I'll give that a try and see what's giving. It's not the vibration I care about. It's definitely a inch or more lift.


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## ALLROAD VR (Jan 23, 2006)

TheBurninator said:


> probably throw out bearing. or something along those lines. The slave would make your pedal stay on the floor if it was bad


Thanks, it's makes that humming sound as I let go of the clutch when it's on first gear ready to accelerate. 

Anyone got the part number for a throw out bearing?


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

ALLROAD VR said:


> Thanks, it's makes that humming sound as I let go of the clutch when it's on first gear ready to accelerate.
> 
> Anyone got the part number for a throw out bearing?


 A clutch kit should come with a new throwout bearing, also known as a release bearing. There's no sense in taking the whole transmission out, and just replacing that bearing. Do the whole clutch while you are in there.


----------



## karlorado (Nov 13, 2008)

Clutch kit: p/n 021 198 141A (includes release bearing, pressure plate, clutch disc)

Release bearing: p/n 02A 141 165M

Pressure plate bolt: p/n N 101 010 01 (6 required per car) I like to replace them, but it's your call

Flywheel bolt: p/n N 905 398 01 (10 required per car) I like to replace these as well, since the flywheel will be off anyways for resurfacing. I _personally_ don't like to have the flywheel resurfaced more than 3 times before being replaced.

Flywheel: p/n 021 105 269BX


----------



## jason yow (May 1, 2010)

*qustion for the experts!*

so here's my question
I'm picking up a 92slc this week and it has tan interior .of course i don't like tan, so i also can pick up a 93 complete black leather interior. question is are they compatible, or did they change after 92?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jason yow said:


> so here's my question
> I'm picking up a 92slc this week and it has tan interior .of course i don't like tan, so i also can pick up a 93 complete black leather interior. question is are they compatible, or did they change after 92?


there were minor changes in the 93 interior. The doorpanels are the only thing that will be different unless you are also changing to the newer style dash. Also the way the rear seats mount is slightly different but that is easy to take care of.


----------



## jason yow (May 1, 2010)

*thanx*

so 90 91 92 will all fit the same then?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jason yow said:


> so 90 91 92 will all fit the same then?


yep

I did a full interior swap in my 90 from a 93 car... wiring harnesses and dash and all


----------



## jason yow (May 1, 2010)

*coo*

so maybe i should pick that interior up if it's not too difficult. i wasnt planning on switching out the dash just all the horrible tan pieces. it's the switches on the doors that are different, yes? any way to make 'em work or i guess i can get the interior less the door cards and get early door cards.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jason yow said:


> so maybe i should pick that interior up if it's not too difficult. i wasnt planning on switching out the dash just all the horrible tan pieces. it's the switches on the doors that are different, yes? any way to make 'em work or i guess i can get the interior less the door cards and get early door cards.


The placement of the mirror switch and the window switch are not in the car itself on the newer interior. And to use the newer switches you will need to wire them into the older style harness.


----------



## karlorado (Nov 13, 2008)

Yes, just the _front_ door cards are different. The switch placement/ shape is different as well as the arm rest grab handles, the map pockets are different as well. Everything is more or less the same, just subtle things that won't hinder the installation.


----------



## jason yow (May 1, 2010)

awesome than i just need a black headliner and trim to be complete!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

karlorado said:


> Yes, just the _front_ door cards are different. The switch placement/ shape is different as well as the arm rest grab handles, the map pockets are different as well. Everything is more or less the same, just subtle things that won't hinder the installation.


wrong. there are brackets on the doors of the 93+ that need to be swapped over to support the door handle on the newer cards Also the door pulls need to be swapped



jason yow said:


> awesome than i just need a black headliner and trim to be complete!


no such thing as a factory black headliner.


----------



## jason yow (May 1, 2010)

so whats in the black leather cars? gray?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jason yow said:


> so whats in the black leather cars? gray?


yep


----------



## karlorado (Nov 13, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> wrong. there are brackets on the doors of the 93+ that need to be swapped over to support the door handle on the newer cards Also the door pulls need to be swapped


Sorry not to specify, just thought that would be obvious lol


----------



## arobx717 (May 29, 2010)

*Automatic Windows*

I have a 1991 Corrado. My automatic windows on both sides stopped working at the exact same time, my passenger is stuck down and my driver is stuck up. I replaced all the fuses and checked the door wires and yet they still do not work.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

arobx717 said:


> I have a 1991 Corrado. My automatic windows on both sides stopped working at the exact same time, my passenger is stuck down and my driver is stuck up. I replaced all the fuses and checked the door wires and yet they still do not work.


check the window control module behind the DS rear doorcard


----------



## steezbox (Feb 6, 2007)

Car - 92 SLC

Issue at hand - pulling motor to do chains and HG

Question - HOW THE **** DO I GET THIS GODDAMN AC COMPRESSOR OUT? I removed the two big long bolts... Am I stupid?
(The head is already off. Everything else is done except the PS pump)


----------



## LoneStar99 (Mar 15, 2009)

what does it mean to have a "standalone" system.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

LoneStar99 said:


> what does it mean to have a "standalone" system.


That would be a type of fully programmable engine management system.

Megasquirt, autronic, emerald, etc etc


----------



## LoneStar99 (Mar 15, 2009)

ooh. i always thought megasquirt had something to do with w/m injection


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

steezbox said:


> Car - 92 SLC
> 
> Issue at hand - pulling motor to do chains and HG
> 
> ...


Sorry this wasnt answered, but if the bolts are out, then use a pry bar on it gently.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

LoneStar99 said:


> ooh. i always thought megasquirt had something to do with w/m injection


it is a way to control injectors but also spark etc etc etc


----------



## s74n70n (Dec 11, 2009)

*giac or tt or neuspeed ECU?*

I have a 1993 SLC with an intake. It runs on a distributor, not coilpack. I'm going buy a chip this week. I have stock cams and are going to keep them stock for a couple years. Should i get the TT chip for only 84 bux? OR a neuspeed for 170? or the GIAC for 180? I notice alot of ppl like GIAC. But will i get the same exact thing out of any of those chips?


----------



## Ned Ludd (Apr 20, 2008)

I've got a 93 VR with a strange bogging happening at high temp. Car has an intake, fresh OE spark plugs, neuspeed wires and underdrive pulleys. But the bogging was happening before any of these mods/changes.

It's definitely temp related. Gotta be hot before it bogs. It feels kinda like the old mk1/2 french ignition system in the rain...
You step on the throttle and it hesitates then catches and she starts pulling again. The hotter it gets the worse it gets. It's gotten to the point once where it failed completely and I had to leave it till she cooled down before it would even start.
Fuel supply maybe? Injectors?

Thanks in advance folks.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Ned Ludd said:


> I've got a 93 VR with a strange bogging happening at high temp. Car has an intake, fresh OE spark plugs, neuspeed wires and underdrive pulleys. But the bogging was happening before any of these mods/changes.
> 
> It's definitely temp related. Gotta be hot before it bogs. It feels kinda like the old mk1/2 french ignition system in the rain...
> You step on the throttle and it hesitates then catches and she starts pulling again. The hotter it gets the worse it gets. It's gotten to the point once where it failed completely and I had to leave it till she cooled down before it would even start.
> ...


Is it a distributor or coilpack VR6?

If it is a coilpack car then I will almost put money that it is a coilpack that is bad. Look for any cracks on it and get back to me


----------



## gameron (May 6, 2007)

*Oil Cooler*

Will a vr6 oil cool kit work in a G60 ?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

gameron said:


> Will a vr6 oil cool kit work in a G60 ?


the core and the lines would but the plate will not. Nor will the mounting hardware for the plate.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

s74n70n said:


> I have a 1993 SLC with an intake. It runs on a distributor, not coilpack. I'm going buy a chip this week. I have stock cams and are going to keep them stock for a couple years. Should i get the TT chip for only 84 bux? OR a neuspeed for 170? or the GIAC for 180? I notice alot of ppl like GIAC. But will i get the same exact thing out of any of those chips?


I already answered this in your thread. :banghead: But since you added anonther option for Neuspeed Ill add...

Neuspeed is very consevative for the $$$ I saw better results with the stock cam TT software.
TT is the best bang for $$$ and no you cant run a cam chip before you get cams. Dont even ask. 
GIAC will be the best for cams as they have encryption boards to help with timing.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

i havent been on here in a month and i gotta say i am pleased to see this thread at 60 pages. i had no idea it wold make it this far.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

keeping your legacy alive mang....Happy Memorial Day to ya noob. :thumbup:


----------



## crisvr6 (Jun 14, 2007)

DUBZAK said:


> keeping your legacy alive mang....


----------



## wed3k (Feb 22, 2010)

what size wheels are on the corrado in the .gif? looks like 18's?

i like the porsche twists but a lot of them are 18's


----------



## karlorado (Nov 13, 2008)

I'd say Audi fat 5's


----------



## SLC4ME (Apr 16, 2001)

might be lb's most def 17's


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

wed3k said:


> what size wheels are on the corrado in the .gif? looks like 18's?
> 
> i like the porsche twists but a lot of them are 18's


fat 5's


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

Quick question on replacing the front oil seal on my VR6. I know to use the subframe as leverage and crank the starter to break it loose. The Bentley says to use a support bracket for the vibration dampener and using a knurled screw to lock the inner seal in place.

Are these necessary or is it just as simple as breaking it loose, remove, install?

Picture of the Bentley page for reference:










Edit: Picture came out much smaller than I hoped.


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

iAco said:


> Quick question on replacing the front oil seal on my VR6. I know to use the subframe as leverage and crank the starter to break it loose. The Bentley says to use a support bracket for the vibration dampener and using a knurled screw to lock the inner seal in place.
> 
> Are these necessary or is it just as simple as breaking it loose, remove, install?


 I bought the bracket. The torque spec for the vibration dampener bolt is outrageous.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*Front Main Seal @ iAco*

I had the motor out of the car so it was quite easy to replace that.
Once the crank pulley is off, the front main cover will come off after. The old seal might require a little massaging to come out, but make sure the new one is flush with the cover. :thumbup:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

steezbox said:


> Car - 92 SLC
> 
> Issue at hand - pulling motor to do chains and HG
> 
> ...


:laugh:


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

My clutch has no pressure, it just stays on the floor. Is there a way to confidently determine whether it's the master or slave?


----------



## Vr6-Eh (Jun 21, 2009)

*Fog light relay*

Can i get the part number for the fog light relay? I'm finaly semi upgrading my lightning.


----------



## flatnbagged (May 10, 2010)

Hey, i have a 91 G60 automatic . I'm doing a 5-speed swap, and my buddy wants me to put his diesel tranny in it, not sure of the year, but i'd have everything for the swap, im just worried about the gearing being crazy different. anyone have any experience with this, or know if it would be a good idea??? Or should i just stick with a regular 5-speed


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

Ok so im trying to diagnose my abs issues on my 91 g60. This is what I was using as a guide: 


> If you pull up the shifter boot you will see two connectors that look like these clipped to the front of it....
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 First issue is that my connector is blue, not white and only has a yellow wire at the bottom, no blue wire at the top (maybe it has something to do with it being JDM?). Regardless I tried to flash it but it refused to put out any codes. When I connected the wire and turned the key to the on position the abs light was solid amber. Without the jump wire the light went on and then turned off. Any help appreciated.:banghead: 
Picture for reference:


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## Ned Ludd (Apr 20, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Is it a distributor or coilpack VR6?
> 
> If it is a coilpack car then I will almost put money that it is a coilpack that is bad. Look for any cracks on it and get back to me


 Yup. It's coilpack, but nope, didn't solve the problem. 
Got a fresh one on there this afternoon, took her for a good rip, got nice and hot and back came the bogging-hesitation. The bogging restarted as I was at the apex of a good twisty which is making me think fuel pump/supply somehow. But I don't know what kind of fuel issue would be temp related...?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

iAco said:


> Are these necessary or is it just as simple as breaking it loose, remove, install?


 after looking at it more, yes that stupid bracket is required when working with "motor in the car". 
:banghead: 
Impact that bastid off. forget that balancer holder. I know where to get a sweet aluminum pulley, and its not gruven parts. lol



skaterhernandez4 said:


> My clutch has no pressure, it just stays on the floor. Is there a way to confidently determine whether it's the master or slave?


 dangerous territory. Bleed the brakes first. See if pressure returns. Check the lines for leaks, if all is still not well, pull them both and bench test them. 
If only one is bad, any technician would recommend replacement of both. You have to make the call. 
Good luck.



flatnbagged said:


> Hey, i have a 91 G60 automatic . I'm doing a 5-speed swap, and my buddy wants me to put his diesel tranny in it, not sure of the year, but i'd have everything for the swap, im just worried about the gearing being crazy different. anyone have any experience with this, or know if it would be a good idea??? Or should i just stick with a regular 5-speed


 Techtonics used to have a gearing chart. I know the TDI will either have a long ratio or a bad ass one for off the line acceleration. They are normaly a low reving redline so the gearing is something I would at least try. 
Get the code off the trans, located by the starter on the trans and ask in the TDI forum for the best help. Or maybe G60ing will chime in. 




JamesS said:


> Ok so im trying to diagnose my abs issues on my 91 g60. This is what I was using as a guide:
> 
> 
> First issue is that my connector is blue, not white and only has a yellow wire at the bottom, no blue wire at the top (maybe it has something to do with it being JDM?). Regardless I tried to flash it but it refused to put out any codes. When I connected the wire and turned the key to the on position the abs light was solid amber. Without the jump wire the light went on and then turned off. Any help appreciated.:banghead:
> Picture for reference:


 I'm afraid you need to do a little research on the blink systems buddy. You cannot pull codes from OBD1, only get flashes of the ABS light. Especially on cars without a CEL. Don't think yours has one cause its JDM yo.


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## flatnbagged (May 10, 2010)

i was told that this particullar tranny was taller gears 1-4 and a long 5th gear. so faster through 1-4 and a cruisin gear i guess, would this be better then just and 5-speed like out of a golf. i mean i would not mind rippin through gears faster lol but i dont want them to be stupid short, idk i got the whole setup for an ipod nano, no joke, so im probably gonna do it, ill let you know how it goes.


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## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

DUBZAK said:


> after looking at it more, yes that stupid bracket is required when working with "motor in the car".
> :banghead:
> Impact that bastid off. forget that balancer holder. I know where to get a sweet aluminum pulley, and its not gruven parts. lol


 
Luckily I found out I don't have to replace it. Good to know about it for future reference. :thumbup:


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

flatnbagged said:


> would this be better then just and 5-speed like out of a golf.


 you cannot use a golf transmission unless its a MK4 O2J box. You cannot use VR6 02A's because the bellhousing cannot bolt to a 4cyl. block. You need a cable shift 02A box. Reverse engineer swapping to 020 (MK3 4cyl and and older) rod linkage is feasble, but very dumb. 
You have a 02A style gearbox. 
Cars that came with 02A or an 02J that will work:
Passat 16V, TDI, 2.0 (B3 & B4) 02A box
Golf MK4 (1.8t, 2.0, TDI) This is an O2J box.
Audi TT MK1 FWD (02J)
Corrado G60

Finding if the gearing works for you is on you. Longer gears mean more time in boost.


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

Dubzak, I don't think you understand. I am trying to get flashes of the abs light to decipher into codes, but my abs will not flash properly. FYI JDM stuff can often be quite different.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

JamesS said:


> Dubzak, I don't think you understand. I am trying to get flashes of the abs light to decipher into codes, but my abs will not flash properly. FYI JDM stuff can often be quite different.


 i got ya...so no CEL at all? hence the ABS flash needs. Ok.....
If in fact your JDM Corrado is in fact different, Might want to think about rewiring it with the Canadian/US diagnostic plug harness. Obtaining the JDM spec harness is advisable to try and find the differences. 

I know the blue plug thing is very wierd too. 
And if you say JDM you actually mean DDM, Deutchland Domestic Market.


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

Yeah it is german spec but there are some things specific to the Japanese market such as the CAT overheat sensor.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

:screwy:

and I meant find a wiring diagram from the JDM car not the harness.


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

haha, I was guessing that was what you meant.


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## FlatlanderSJ (Oct 4, 2007)

euro parking lights possible on the corrado?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

FlatlanderSJ said:


> euro parking lights possible on the corrado?


 parking lights?  wtf?
city lights maybe is what you meant? one click below the low beams ,yes, with e-code headlights. 
and with a euro fog switch (standard on all 92 and under, needs euro switch on 93+) you can run fogs with the city lights. Wire up the rear fog and have the euro effekt. 
I hope that is what you were asking, shot in the dark, but just in case you are refering to side markers (euro turn signals) those are possible as well. If you do this delete the bumper maker lights from the US spec bumper please.


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## FlatlanderSJ (Oct 4, 2007)

no i was talking about when flip the turn signal switch with the key out all of the parking lights on that side of the car light up.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

My Mercedes has that, and it is ran through the headlight switch there. Ive neer seen it on the turn signals though, and would probably drain the battery more than its worth. 

Not feasable buy OEM means unless you find a 5 position switch or know of any euro models with it. So yes of corse it can be done with a 3 position toggle switch /Left/off/Right/.:screwy: dumb idea if never offered but hey, who the eff am I anyway. :laugh:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> parking lights? .


 HAHAHA, just saw your sig, BAWHAHAHAHA rs


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

FlatlanderSJ said:


> no i was talking about when flip the turn signal switch with the key out all of the parking lights on that side of the car light up.


 My Corrado has this function ^^...


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

well, confirmed in europe on the Corrado, I have never known about it. There must be something with the turn signal relay.
Red, can you get us a p/n for comparison?
FlatlanderSJ Pull your signal relay out and get the p/n off it and Im willing to bet that has at least something to do with it. :thumbup:


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> well, confirmed in europe on the Corrado, I have never known about it. There must be something with the turn signal relay.
> Red, can you get us a p/n for comparison?


 Zak, although I'm not 100% certain on this function and unfortunately right now I can not check (either the function or the p/n) since my car is at the bodyshop... 
I know Mikki could chime in and help further, she knows like all the p/n by heart, lol  

So N/A Corrados don't have at all the parking light function


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

America is a definite nope. I dont believe Canada got lucky either. 

Doesn't suprise me though. Something else to add to the "Euro Spec" list  :laugh:


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> America is a definite nope. I dont believe Canada got lucky either.
> 
> Doesn't suprise me though. Something else to add to the "Euro Spec" list  :laugh:


 LOL, dude when I get my car from the bodyshop I'm gonna take a pic with the parking light on and post it here, to make you jealous


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## 2925 (Dec 11, 2007)

So I was doing a little reading in corky bell and I came upon the passage "To size a tailpipe, you can adhere to this exhaust gas velocity or to the simple guideline of selecting a tube diameter approximately 10% larger than the turbine outlet diameter." - pg 120. So IIRC that would mean with my t3s60 with an 1.5" exhaust turbine outlet diameter would "technically" only require 1.65" downpipe diameter?


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## IMWALKIN (Mar 28, 2002)

to remove the plastic outlet from a g60 water pump do you need to remove the power steering? or just that support bracket? is it just three bolts? I do not have AC... also does anyone know the part number for the outlet but in metal from earlier golfs? thanks..


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

JamesS said:


> Ok so im trying to diagnose my abs issues on my 91 g60. This is what I was using as a guide:
> 
> 
> What you do is make a jumper wire and with the ignition off you jump the ones shown in the image above. Then you turn the ignition to "On" and then wait 5 seconds and then the first code will be displayed by the ABS light blinking. It will start with a long flash of the ABS light and then it will flash each of the 4 digits of the stored code. Each code is displayed by a long flash then it will start with the first digit by flashing the ABS light quickly x times which will be the first digit. Once it has displayed the first digit it will pause for a second and then it will flash the second digit using the ABS light and pause again. Wait for it to flash all 4 digits and it will turn the ABS light on for a long pause and then it will repeat the first code again. Now you plug the jumper in again leaving the ignition switch on the entire time and leave the jumper in place for another 5 seconds then pull it off and the next code will be flashed out. You repeat this process until the 4444 is flashed out or you just get 4 long flashes of the ABS light and this means there are no more codes stored in the ECM.
> ...


 Bump cause my abs is still screwed and I need help:banghead:. Anyone have any insight?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> If in fact your JDM Corrado is in fact different, Might want to think about rewiring it with the Canadian/US diagnostic plug harness. Obtaining the JDM spec wiring diagram is advisable to try and find the differences.





JamesS said:


> Bump cause my abs is still screwed and I need help:banghead:. Anyone have any insight?


 

You get the JDM wiring diagram yet? If not there is no hope for you.


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## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

Here's a question....wtf is the point of the shocker sticker on people's VW's? Is it just to alert the entire world that the driver is a massive doucher?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> You get the JDM wiring diagram yet? If not there is no hope for you.


 why its not a JDM car


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> why its not a JDM car


 According to the JDM expert JamesS, it has a cool Cat Overheat sensor and blue diagnostic connectors JDM exclusives.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> According to the JDM expert JamesS, it has a cool Cat Overheat sensor and blue diagnostic connectors JDM exclusives.


 funny... etka shows no such part :sly: 

Also steerwheel is on wrong side for JDM car. 

Connector color may be different but the wiring matches up in the bentley.


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## SLC4ME (Apr 16, 2001)

haha jamess and dubzak owned lol


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

I have a cat sensor in my house right now, want a picture? There was also a light that said CAT by the abs light.


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> funny... etka shows no such part :sly:
> 
> Also steerwheel is on wrong side for JDM car.
> 
> Connector color may be different but the wiring matches up in the bentley.


 You do know that German cars are lhd in Japan, right?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

JamesS said:


> You do know that German cars are lhd in Japan, right?


 *shrug* 

either way your wiring is the same color that is in the bentley.


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

According to what I have their should be two plugs, one white and one black. Both of these plugs have 2 wires entering into them. I have one blue plug and one black plug. The black plug has two wires in but the blue only has one wire in. The ABS light refuses to flash to indicate what the problem is. I don't know what is wrong.


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## steezbox (Feb 6, 2007)

DUBZAK said:


> Sorry this wasnt answered, but if the bolts are out, then use a pry bar on it gently.


 
Ohhhh the pry bar. Worked like a charm. I'm always afraid to bust out pry bars or cheater bars because if I break something it will cost me like.... 100000000$. 

Thanks though. Problem solved!:thumbup:


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

SLC4ME said:


> haha jamess and dubzak owned lol


  How did I get pwned 

I was following his expertise on his JDM car. :what:


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## cstanley19 (Sep 23, 2006)

Any suggestions on how to get a crank bolt out that is just being a PITA?? Used heat, big torque bars, 650lb impact.. no avail.. I guess hit it with a bigger gun?.. bentley says it should be torqued to 74 ft lbs plus a 1/4 turn... help


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

C...if the motor is in the car and not coming off with impact, you might want to do the trick with the starter turning the motor while you hold the bolt with a pry bar or something. 

If not man, I would get a stronger gun and hit that mofo.


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## kevwithoutacorrado (Jun 9, 2000)

*Runing Rich and Rough while cold.*

Hey... 


I've been running really rich lately (tons of black getting on it, bad mpg) and the motor runs really rough while cold. Where should I start? 

Coolant (all three) and Air temp sensors are all new. MAf is good (tested with a spare, no change) O2 had no effect (tested with spare) injectors were cleaned by witch hunter less than 20K miles ago. 

It just runs so bad when it's cold, then smooths out. But it 's always rich.  

I'll check and post codes if any later. I checked several weeks ago and forgot were I wrote them...


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## cstanley19 (Sep 23, 2006)

Thanks Zak, ya the motor is out and I can't replace the oem bolts with the APR stuff until I get the crank out. Bigger gun it is!


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## zdehoop (May 9, 2010)

*1993 Corrado VR6 SLC Headlights Wiring Diagram*

Hey does anyone have a 1993 Corrado VR6 SLC Headlights Wiring Diagram. 
THANKS ! =)


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## mhasterok (May 27, 2010)

We tried to search for this answer but couldn't find it... 

1994 Corrado VR6. Honestly, we don't know much at all about working on engines. We usually take our cars to a European shop, but we are trying to learn for ourselves. We have had 4 Corrado's in our family: A beautiful 1995 VR6 that my cousin went to Canada for, 1992 VR6, a 1990 G60, and now a 1994 VR6. 

We removed our stock airbox off our VR6 motor, to install a cold air intake. What do you do with the approx 1" diameter hose that came off the end of the airbox (closest to the front of the car, at the corner of the airbox). Right now it is just left disconnected. Thanks in advance for your help, we hope to learn alot here.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

mhasterok said:


> We tried to search for this answer but couldn't find it...
> 
> 1994 Corrado VR6. Honestly, we don't know much at all about working on engines. We usually take our cars to a European shop, but we are trying to learn for ourselves. We have had 4 Corrado's in our family: A beautiful 1995 VR6 that my cousin went to Canada for, 1992 VR6, a 1990 G60, and now a 1994 VR6.
> 
> We removed our stock airbox off our VR6 motor, to install a cold air intake. What do you do with the approx 1" diameter hose that came off the end of the airbox (closest to the front of the car, at the corner of the airbox). Right now it is just left disconnected. Thanks in advance for your help, we hope to learn alot here.


 you need a small air filter for it or remove the whole SAI pump assembly and plug the whole in the head for it.


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## g60nw (Mar 30, 2010)

Well since they changed the site I can't find anything about turboing the g60 anymore both searching here and google. I remember seeing a few threads about it before everything was changed with what all was needed part wise etc. if anyone still has the info I would appreciate it.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

g60nw said:


> Well since they changed the site I can't find anything about turboing the g60 anymore both searching here and google. I remember seeing a few threads about it before everything was changed with what all was needed part wise etc. if anyone still has the info I would appreciate it.


 try the forced induction, G60 or 8v forums


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## zdehoop (May 9, 2010)

*Hey does anyone have a 1993 Corrado VR6 SLC Headlights Wiring Diagram.*

Hey does anyone have a 1993 Corrado VR6 SLC Headlights Wiring Diagram.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

zdehoop said:


> Hey does anyone have a 1993 Corrado VR6 SLC Headlights Wiring Diagram.


 I think the lack of responses translates to get a bentley you need it very badly.  :laugh: :beer:
And didnt I give you a link to the corrado wiring before?
Corrado Wiring 

Its in there. 

BTW, I havent looked for any of that stuff yet, my garage is a mess. But my car is doing awesome.


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## pompyp1 (Apr 24, 2010)

So the door pin (not really sure what you call it) of my corrado's driver side broke off and the skinny part fell into the hole after I locked it. Now whenever I try to unlock the door the little thing goes off to the side and prevents the door from unlocking; passenger side works fine. 

I was thinking of taking the door panel off and krazy-gluing the piece back on, what's the best way of going about this?


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## NoVAslc (Jun 29, 2003)

I use a pair of needle nose to fish it out of there. You could pull the door card off if you wanted.....but that's just too much work just to get the door pin imho.


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## zdehoop (May 9, 2010)

*Projector Headlights*

Hey i was wondering if i could get any input on some headlights my stock ones are kinda trashed so ive been looking at some different ones. I want the Angel Blue Halo no clear ones. 

http://www.genkituning.com/1990-1994-VW-Corrado-Projector-Headlights-p/lhp-vcor95bb-a.html 

http://www.ilovebodykits.com/produc...do_Halo_Projector_Head_Lights_Black_Blue.html 

Any suggestions ?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Yeah, quit putting crap on your car. 

E-Codes or GTFO.:laugh:  Don't you even try to say "too expensive", saving your money is not that hard to do especially for a piece of SAFETY EQUIPMENT.

As bad as the stock lighting is, Id rather see it left than to have your car turn into another Angel Eyed abomination. Few have made that look ok. If you arent alreay wildly modded, they always look so out of place and cheap. 

And if you *Insist* on Angel Eyes, InPro ONLY cause they have glass lenses. No cheap chinese plastic lights for a fine german automobile. :beer:


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## lil_kano (Apr 11, 2007)

So i'm looking for some help from professional and i was led to this thread by sr skuttle. it seems this is where all the pros hang out. 

i have a mk4 r32 with an intake, tune and flappa mod. its stupid slow... 

so how can i put a g charger on my .:rrrRRR32??? that way i can at least keep up with karman...


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## zdehoop (May 9, 2010)

*DOT*

http://www.inprolights.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=55{3}1 

are they DOT stamped ?


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## RebelS4 (Sep 10, 2008)

*HELP!!!*

:banghead: so I bought a g60 corrado that was a parts car and was missing alot of pieces. He was running the car na without the charger so I had to piece together everything and cannot figure out where the oil feed line goes into the block. Anyone have any advice or pictures cause I have looked everywhere and either I am looking in the wrong place or am missing a piece that he has blocked off. Any help would be appreciated.


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## g60nw (Mar 30, 2010)

RebelS4 said:


> :banghead: so I bought a g60 corrado that was a parts car and was missing alot of pieces. He was running the car na without the charger so I had to piece together everything and cannot figure out where the oil feed line goes into the block. Anyone have any advice or pictures cause I have looked everywhere and either I am looking in the wrong place or am missing a piece that he has blocked off. Any help would be appreciated.


 Someone with more experience will probably be able to help you better, but it's on the right side of the block when standing at the front of the car. It's supposed to have a place for a banjo bolt to screw into.


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## RebelS4 (Sep 10, 2008)

Is there suppose to be a part that the banjo bolt and the sensor that is on the side of the block go into? I cant find a hole where the bolt should go except maybe on the back of the block but it just doesnt seem right. I have a feeling the previous owner moved some things around to where they shouldnt be. It has been an on going nightmare but I only paid $300 for it so I got what I paid for I guess.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

lil_kano said:


> So i'm looking for some help from professional and i was led to this thread by sr skuttle. it seems this is where all the pros hang out.
> 
> i have a mk4 r32 with an intake, tune and flappa mod. its stupid slow...
> 
> so how can i put a g charger on my .:rrrRRR32??? that way i can at least keep up with karman...


 Here's a tasteful suggestion, GTFO of this thread noob, if you wanna throw a G on your .:R, then try the G60 or Hybrid forums :banghead: 

:laugh: jagermeister is on my ban list  



RebelS4 said:


> Is there suppose to be a part that the banjo bolt and the sensor that is on the side of the block go into? I cant find a hole where the bolt should go except maybe on the back of the block but it just doesnt seem right. I have a feeling the previous owner moved some things around to where they shouldnt be. It has been an on going nightmare but I only paid $300 for it so I got what I paid for I guess.


 Which oil feed line, would have been nice for you to say, but the oil "feed" line to the charger comes from the head on the DS and yes there is a sensor there. The "return" line comes from the charger to a nipple threaded into the middle bottom of the block, this is not a pressurized line :thumbup:


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## RebelS4 (Sep 10, 2008)

Which oil feed line said:


> I have the return line in, I was refering the the feed line off the charger. On the side of the block there is a sensor and the only pic I can find has a fitting that the banjo bolt and sensor go into. My sensor is screwed directly into the block so I think I am missing something. Anyone know where I can find this or the name so I can at least search it? Thanks for the help I was going bald from scratching my head.


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## gameron (May 6, 2007)

*Need oil cool*

any one know a site to get a oil cooler for corrado G60


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RebelS4 said:


> I have the return line in, I was refering the the feed line off the charger. On the side of the block there is a sensor and the only pic I can find has a fitting that the banjo bolt and sensor go into. My sensor is screwed directly into the block so I think I am missing something. Anyone know where I can find this or the name so I can at least search it? Thanks for the help I was going bald from scratching my head.


 How about show us a pic? Is there a banjo bolt in the sensor? here is a pic of mine, I will see if I can get a better pic... (itz the y shaped piece on the right side of the head)


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

gameron said:


> any one know a site to get a oil cooler for corrado G60


 google.com


----------



## RebelS4 (Sep 10, 2008)

awesome thanks Sr Karmann, the previous owner took out the Y thing and just screwed the sensor into the block to run NA with no oil line. I couldnt find a decent pic to show it but yours helped a lot. Not to find the Y part...


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RebelS4 said:


> awesome thanks Sr Karmann, the previous owner took out the Y thing and just screwed the sensor into the block to run NA with no oil line. I couldnt find a decent pic to show it but yours helped a lot. Not to find the Y part...


 Call 1stvwparts tomorrow, I'm sure they will have one, or you could try to source one used from the classifieds :beer:


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## lil_kano (Apr 11, 2007)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Here's a tasteful suggestion, GTFO of this thread noob, if you wanna throw a G on your .:R, then try the G60 or Hybrid forums :banghead:


 ohh ok. i thought the g60 savy people trolled in here but apparently you're all incompetent to answer a simple question.  

i think i'll scuttle back to my .:rrrRRRR32 threads now. opcorn: 



Sr. Karmann said:


> :laugh: jagermeister is on my ban list


 bahaha! i luvs ya too.  :beer:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

lil_kano said:


> ohh ok. i thought the *Corrado* savy people *regulate* in here but apparently you're all *competant in answering all "Corrado" questions.*
> 
> *thank you for all of your help*. :beer:
> 
> ...


 
fixed.... BAWHAHAHAHA :laugh:


----------



## lil_kano (Apr 11, 2007)

Sr. Karmann said:


> fixed.... BAWHAHAHAHA :laugh:


 you is a sweetheart!  










i iz low with stretch...can i hang with you guys???


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

lil_kano said:


> you is a sweetheart!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 I'll probly have an _.:R_ before you own a C


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## lil_kano (Apr 11, 2007)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I'll probly have an _*.:rrrrRRRRR*_ before you own a C


 is that a dare?? 










what about now?? can i hang with you guys?? BBS! bahaha!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

lil_kano said:


> is that a dare??
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 not with that p-chop, :cough:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

No, but that sure is a sweet parts car you got right there.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> No, but that sure is a sweet parts car you got right there.


 ^ what he said opcorn: 


:laugh:


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## lil_kano (Apr 11, 2007)

yeah she did carry the rrRRado's parts pretty well to my garage for some lovin.  

nah but my real car is a sick 1.9t jetta!! ****z tite.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

lil_kano said:


> yeah she did carry the rrRRado's parts pretty well to my garage for some lovin.
> 
> nah but my real car is a sick 1.9t jetta!! ****z tite.


 
:thumbup: does make for a good truck  
:laugh:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

lil_kano said:


> yeah she did carry the rrRRado's parts pretty well to my garage for some lovin.


 Not what I meant. I happen to be looking at an 02m, propshaft, and rear diff in my parts collection. 

Dont wrap your .:R around a pole and it wont be a parts car.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

gameron said:


> any one know a site to get a oil cooler for corrado G60


 try us out... OE febi/bilstein oil cooler for $72. +shipping.


----------



## RebelS4 (Sep 10, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Call 1stvwparts tomorrow, I'm sure they will have one, or you could try to source one used from the classifieds :beer:


 anyone happen to know the part number on this piece? I called 1stvwparts but didnt get an answer and cant find it on the site. Called my local import parts store and they cant find it without a number or at least a name. I'll post a wanted thread in the classifieds in hope...Thanks for any and all the help.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RebelS4 said:


> anyone happen to know the part number on this piece? I called 1stvwparts but didnt get an answer and cant find it on the site. Called my local import parts store and they cant find it without a number or at least a name. I'll post a wanted thread in the classifieds in hope...Thanks for any and all the help.


 which Y? 

Is it the one on the side of the head? I guess I can look it up in etka... it is actually about 6 different parts stacked together just FYI


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RebelS4 said:


> anyone happen to know the part number on this piece? I called 1stvwparts but didnt get an answer and cant find it on the site. Called my local import parts store and they cant find it without a number or at least a name. I'll post a wanted thread in the classifieds in hope...Thanks for any and all the help.


 my etka link is down :banghead: and I don't know which sender that is off the top of my head, would guess oil pressure, but probly wrong... hit up some people parting G's in the classifieds, maybe head oil sending unit for G60 oil feed and banjo bolt :thumbup:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> my etka link is down :banghead: and I don't know which sender that is off the top of my head, would guess oil pressure, but probly wrong... hit up some people parting G's in the classifieds, maybe head oil sending unit for G60 oil feed and banjo bolt :thumbup:


 This what you guys are looking for?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

yep, might be better off going thru the classifieds for the cheap :thumbup:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> yep, might be better off going thru the classifieds for the cheap :thumbup:


 Here is the full parts list for the entire assembly minus the sensor and oil line. 

N 021 075 5 
N 013 808 5 x2 
N 013 812 8 
N 013 811 5 
030 103 717 
030 103 715 


Now someone tickle my balls


----------



## RebelS4 (Sep 10, 2008)

awesome, thanks for all the help guys.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RebelS4 said:


> awesome, thanks for all the help guys.


 no prob :thumbup:


----------



## RebelS4 (Sep 10, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Here is the full parts list for the entire assembly minus the sensor and oil line.
> 
> N 021 075 5
> N 013 808 5 x2
> ...


 hopefully I can find one being parted out, the adapter itself is $34!!! I found them all on 1stvw except the last one 030103715. Thanks for the hook up with the numbers though.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RebelS4 said:


> hopefully I can find one being parted out, the adapter itself is $34!!! I found them all on 1stvw except the last one 030103715. Thanks for the hook up with the numbers though.


 pretty sure that is the important one too :sly: 

That should be the adapter fitting that the sensor threads into


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RebelS4 said:


> hopefully I can find one being parted out, the adapter itself is $34!!! I found them all on 1stvw except the last one 030103715. Thanks for the hook up with the numbers though.


 do yourself a favor if you go used, pick up new crush washers  

and :beer: to Lakeland


----------



## RebelS4 (Sep 10, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> do yourself a favor if you go used, pick up new crush washers
> 
> and :beer: to Lakeland


 true, maybe we'll run into each other one day. Hopefully I'll be able to get this thing to winterjam next year. Went this year but in the truck. I got family in Parkland so :beer: to you aswell


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RebelS4 said:


> true, maybe we'll run into each other one day. Hopefully I'll be able to get this thing to winterjam next year. Went this year but in the truck. I got family in Parkland so :beer: to you aswell


 :thumbup: FIXX is in November


----------



## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

Can anyone tell me how to change automatic transmission final drive gear fluid on my 91 C?


----------



## Halojunkie222 (Oct 27, 2009)

*smoking dashboard*

So i got in my car to start it up this morning, and i get a clicks like my starter doesnt wanna turn over as if it were a low battery and then i see smoke start coming out from behind my dashboard, above the guages.....haven't poked my head in there or anything yet an i figured i'd get a good idea of where to start. 

ideas?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Halojunkie222 said:


> So i got in my car to start it up this morning, and i get a clicks like my starter doesnt wanna turn over as if it were a low battery and then i see smoke start coming out from behind my dashboard, above the guages.....haven't poked my head in there or anything yet an i figured i'd get a good idea of where to start.
> 
> ideas?


 i would start with the burnt wires and then move on to fried fuse block:what:


----------



## Halojunkie222 (Oct 27, 2009)

yea, lol pretty much but anything in particular that is known to go out on these cars thats behind the gauges?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

yeah, the fuse box. 

Pull the dash apart already. We cant tell you what you fried just automaticaly or magicaly.:screwy:


----------



## Halojunkie222 (Oct 27, 2009)

its 11pm at my apt complex that isnt very well lit, im asking for ideas not answers thanks for being nice.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Sorry if you took offense, but this is one of those times where you need to investigate, no debate on this. 

I know its your daily, so I understand the importance of trying to figure it out. 

Get a headlight (flashlight for your head) (seriously...lol) and get out there and start pulling it apart. :beer:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> yeah, the fuse box.
> 
> Pull the dash apart already. We cant tell you what you fried just automaticaly or magicaly.:screwy:


 This. 

You won't know what you are into until you have assessed the situation.


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

I had all of those parts that guy is looking for from the side of the head, the oil feed stuff. I still have a few parts but Shawn bought the main stuff.


----------



## Roadhog_ (Feb 26, 2007)

Anyone know what I can do for an oil pressure sender for the stock gauge? Couldn't find one around town. Well I did, but everyone wanted $100+ for some generic one.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

OEM or Bust Hog....and then its still a bust cause your wallet will look busted. :thumbup:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Roadhog_ said:


> Anyone know what I can do for an oil pressure sender for the stock gauge? Couldn't find one around town. Well I did, but everyone wanted $100+ for some generic one.


 mk1 cabby one is the same


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> mk1 cabby one is the same


 535 919 561 B is the corrado one.


----------



## 2925 (Dec 11, 2007)

I've got this squeaking from my front pass. tire, it's tied to how fast I'm going. If I put even the slightest pressure on the brake while I'm rolling the squeak will dissapear until I let off of the brake again. I poked around the other day but didn't see much except my bushings are all pretty beat up. Would this be related to the bushings? Or is it something with the brake pads touching the rotor somewhere?


----------



## RebelS4 (Sep 10, 2008)

dogger said:


> I had all of those parts that guy is looking for from the side of the head, the oil feed stuff. I still have a few parts but Shawn bought the main stuff.


 PM'd !!!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

2925 said:


> I've got this squeaking from my front pass. tire, it's tied to how fast I'm going. If I put even the slightest pressure on the brake while I'm rolling the squeak will dissapear until I let off of the brake again. I poked around the other day but didn't see much except my bushings are all pretty beat up. Would this be related to the bushings? Or is it something with the brake pads touching the rotor somewhere?


 have you checked your brakepads? they usually have a built in or added noisemaker to let you know the pads are low :sly:


----------



## specvee (Feb 23, 2007)

What do you guys use to separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles? Bentley says to get "special tool" as it seems to say for just about everything. 

I'm going to try to find a pickle fork tomorrow & see if i have any luck with that. (had never heard of this before today). 

Searching seemed to indicate that people just smack them out but i feel like i am going to break something if i whack any harder. 

Do you guys just whack it? 
Am i being to gentle with it maybe?


----------



## Roadhog_ (Feb 26, 2007)

DUBZAK said:


> OEM or Bust Hog....and then its still a bust cause your wallet will look busted. :thumbup:


 Nah, I just found this. 
http://store.42draftdesigns.com/150PSI-Oil-Pressure-Sender-M10x1_p_89.html 

Exactly what I want.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

specvee said:


> Am i being to gentle with it maybe?


 Most likely. Also try heating up the spindle around the tie rod end. 

You can also use the balljoint tool that presses them out. Pickle fork will destroy the boot. Just fyi 





specvee said:


> Do you guys just whack it?


 only on nights I go home alone :sly:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

specvee said:


> What do you guys use to separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles? Bentley says to get "special tool" as it seems to say for just about everything.
> 
> I'm going to try to find a pickle fork tomorrow & see if i have any luck with that. (had never heard of this before today).
> 
> ...


 My brother tought me this lil trick, smack the steering knuckle with a hammer or heavy steel mallet around the tie rod end, pops right out :thumbup:


----------



## specvee (Feb 23, 2007)

> You can also use the balljoint tool that presses them out


 yeah, i was hesitant to buy the generic one at the autozone by me b/c the opening (where it bites) was just barely small enough. I just went and picked it up & it worked though, just barely. It stripped some metal off of the knuckle when it slipped off on the first try. 

Thanks guys.


----------



## 90slow_rado (Dec 2, 2008)

ok so i have a 90 g60, recently swapped in was a 2.0L from a 95 jetta. reason it was swapped was i burned the g60. so i was gonna rebuild the g60 until i pulled it apart, turns out its gonna be more expensive than i expected. originally i wanted to do a g60T, now i'm wondering if it would be possible to put the g60 head on the 2.0L thats in the car now, for some reason i'm still on g60 management as of now. would it be possible to do this build on the block thats in the car now? what sort of problems would i run into? any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you


----------



## -92-g60-corrado- (Jun 6, 2010)

Hey I have a 92 g60 just a new project for me. One problem I just ran into is that the speedo is missing out of the tranny is it suppose to be a speed sensor or cable?? Also the car already has lots of things done to it lowered rims sway bar intake exhaust lights some internal work done not exactly sure yet havnt had time to tear it down, but pushes about 15 pounds. and revs out at about 8 grand. any suggestions on good mods for the corrado? or things I should know?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

-92-g60-corrado- said:


> Hey I have a 92 g60 just a new project for me. One problem I just ran into is that the speedo is missing out of the tranny is it suppose to be a speed sensor or cable?? Also the car already has lots of things done to it lowered rims sway bar intake exhaust lights some internal work done not exactly sure yet havnt had time to tear it down, but pushes about 15 pounds. and revs out at about 8 grand. any suggestions on good mods for the corrado? or things I should know?


 92 = VSS, vehicle speed sensor, 1stvwparts will have it. As far as useful info, sounds like you are on the right track, but just make sure all the maintenance items are done and addressed properly and do a little reading up on the C in the FAQ, CCA or CCC :thumbup:


----------



## -92-g60-corrado- (Jun 6, 2010)

Forgot to add my clutch is out of it right now any recomendations? Or ideas on where to get a good price on one?


----------



## g60nw (Mar 30, 2010)

To lower the car properly what all is required to keep everything in spec? I have seen camber bolts at a few places but nothing else really mentioned or found in searching.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

depends on a lot of things. Wheel size and lowering height. 
Some levels may require drop plates to correct camber/clearance, and "Great Plates" to re-center the rear beam. 

An Alignment specialist will let you know if they cannot get the car aligned into spec without the camber bolts.


----------



## g60nw (Mar 30, 2010)

Planning on around a 2" drop. I took it in to get aligned just yesterday haven't even lowered it yet and camber can't be brought into spec on the front right as it is.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Align it after its lowered of course. Sounds like a bent stut or spindle if it can be aligned as it is so new suspension is where you might want to begin.


----------



## g60nw (Mar 30, 2010)

It would be aligned after for sure, just wanted to know what was needed or if it's cheap like the camber bolts may as well do it well I am in there type deal.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

g60nw said:


> may as well do it well I am in there type deal.


 Apply this towards EVERYTHING you do, and you will have a happy Corrado. 

I'd jump on the camber bolts too. :thumbup:


----------



## g60nw (Mar 30, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Apply this towards EVERYTHING you do, and you will have a happy Corrado.
> 
> I'd jump on the camber bolts too. :thumbup:


 Yup that should be everyone's motto when working on cars and sadly isn't lol, thanks for the help.


----------



## FlatlanderSJ (Oct 4, 2007)

following up 

link I followed for the parking lights 
http://www.aircoolednut.com/erkson/personal/mycars/euro_parking_lights/index.htm 

after doing that, anytime I would flip either side on all the parking lights would light up. I did some research and found out that there are 3 wires attached in the headlight switch harness that need to be run separately to the early style switch. 

R/02 Headlight Switch Parking Lights (Left) Output Gray/Black (cut and run to 58L on headlight switch) 
R/06 Headlight Switch Parking Lights (Right) Output Gray/Red (cut and run to 58R on headlight switch) 
R/07 Headlight Switch Parking Lights Output Gray/Green (this one you can either leave connected or cut and re-solder it to clean up the joint a little, runs to 58 on the headlight switch) 

http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html


----------



## 2925 (Dec 11, 2007)

Sr. Karmann said:


> have you checked your brakepads? they usually have a built in or added noisemaker to let you know the pads are low :sly:


 I will give that a look, but I did the brake less than 20K ago, I would be pretty surprised if they're already done.


----------



## 90slow_rado (Dec 2, 2008)

90slow_rado said:


> ok so i have a 90 g60, recently swapped in was a 2.0L from a 95 jetta. reason it was swapped was i burned the g60. so i was gonna rebuild the g60 until i pulled it apart, turns out its gonna be more expensive than i expected. originally i wanted to do a g60T, now i'm wondering if it would be possible to put the g60 head on the 2.0L thats in the car now, for some reason i'm still on g60 management as of now. would it be possible to do this build on the block thats in the car now? what sort of problems would i run into? any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

90slow_rado said:


>


I've heard of doing the opposite, but don't know if there may be a clearance issue with the 2.0 pistons, but the jackets should be similar, try it and do a writeup or buy a used ABA head


----------



## specvee (Feb 23, 2007)

Anyone know off hand the size of the lock bolt for the universal joint between the steering column and the rack?


----------



## specvee (Feb 23, 2007)

specvee said:


> Anyone know off hand the size of the lock bolt for the universal joint between the steering column and the rack?


Nevermind.... I couldn't get a 12 on & the 13 felt like it was gonna strip the bolt. 1/2" seemed to do the trick.


----------



## mhasterok (May 27, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> you need a small air filter for it or remove the whole SAI pump assembly and plug the whole in the head for it.


I'll get a small filter. Thanks man!


----------



## MkII-Hi5 (May 13, 2009)

*Guages and stalling...*

It's kind of weird, just picked up a VR Rado last night. My car some times stalls and when I start it it dies? anything to do with fuel system or the guy who sold it to me said vaccum lines. Also, the car pretty much resets the milage counter, time, and my deck. but when the car gets going its fine. Oh yeah sometimes when im driving the car kind of loses power as in i'm pressing the gas and the rpm gauage goes down and back up like a sec response... Hope nothings really BAD... =/


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Dont listen to me, I'll tell you to rebuild the whole engine. 

First what year? Distributor or coilpack. 

Not starting and loosing power to accessories sounds like battery /grounds cables, or ignition switch

Check your wires yet? DO this now.

Have a bentley Corrado manual on order as of last night? Do this yesterday. :thumbup:

Get back with the details.


----------



## MkII-Hi5 (May 13, 2009)

its a 92.

btw, the car doesn't lose power when driving its just like i gas it but it doesn't for a sec and then it resumes its like i down shifted like in a sec and went back 

and when i turn the car off and on, all the gauges reset as well as my deck

the rpm gauge sometimes when i start it fluctuate then car dies then maybe after 3 starts and revving engine it idles normally...

hope i didnt **** up in buying it 

I will get that bently manual and i'm going to start tuning it up. =)


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

MkII-Hi5 said:


> its a 92.
> 
> btw, the car doesn't lose power when driving its just like i gas it but it doesn't for a sec and then it resumes its like i down shifted like in a sec and went back
> *DISTRIBUTOR/Ignition Componenets need replacing.*
> ...


:thumbup:


----------



## 90slow_rado (Dec 2, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I've heard of doing the opposite, but don't know if there may be a clearance issue with the 2.0 pistons, but the jackets should be similar, try it and do a writeup or buy a used ABA head


gotcha, well i was gonna go that route or do a 16v head. just figured i'd make sure it'll work. what do u mean by the opposite?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

90slow_rado said:


> gotcha, well i was gonna go that route or do a 16v head. just figured i'd make sure it'll work. what do u mean by the opposite?


opposite = ABA crossflow on a PG bottom end and if you have the opportunity to go 16v, do it :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## samajvr6 (Apr 17, 2010)

*Steering rack ZF or TRW ....which one...?*

Need to replace the tie rods on my 92 Corrado VR6 US spec (AAA engine code)Planning to buy from www.autohausaz.com. However they want to know which brand of steering rack i have got. Is it ZF or TRW..???? Any idea based on the model year or US - UK spec?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Most likely ZF, easiest way to tell for sure if the rack looks like a waffle iron, its a ZF. If its smooth its a TRW. :thumbup:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

samajvr6 said:


> Need to replace the tie rods on my 92 Corrado VR6 US spec (AAA engine code)Planning to buy from www.autohausaz.com. However they want to know which brand of steering rack i have got. Is it ZF or TRW..???? Any idea based on the model year or US - UK spec?


Is your car right hand drive or left hand drive? That plays a factor too...


----------



## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

*problam with starting after installing chip*

I recently installed the Q chip from autotech sport tuning according to the directions that came with. And the next morning when i went to start it up it didnt even turn over. So i put the old chip back in and it started up and ran fine and is still runing fine. i dont know ifanyone knows why this is doing this or what?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

bpodlesnik said:


> I recently installed the Q chip from autotech sport tuning according to the directions that came with. And the next morning when i went to start it up it didnt even turn over. So i put the old chip back in and it started up and ran fine and is still runing fine. i dont know ifanyone knows why this is doing this or what?


what was the point of posting a thread and in here?

answered in thread.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> what was the point of posting a thread and in here?
> 
> answered in thread.


freakin double dipperz :sly:


----------



## ibedrooms (Jun 3, 2010)

:thumbup:


lil_kano said:


> you is a sweetheart!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Very nice corrado


----------



## samajvr6 (Apr 17, 2010)

Its a left hand drive.



TheBurninator said:


> Is your car right hand drive or left hand drive? That plays a factor too...


----------



## specvee (Feb 23, 2007)

Anyone know if these images are accurate on GAP?
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Steering/220/2

I have a zf rack for sure, but my rods look like the TRW rods. Are they interchangeable?

Mine don't have the black (rubber?) ring between the ends like the ZF racks in the link. Mine are also silver at the inner ends, unlike the ZF ones in this link.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

specvee said:


> Anyone know if these images are accurate on GAP?
> http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Steering/220/2
> 
> I have a zf rack for sure, but my rods look like the TRW rods. Are they interchangeable?
> ...


broken link


----------



## lil_kano (Apr 11, 2007)

Sr. Karmann said:


> broken link


what he said.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

lil_kano said:


> what he said.


Bahahahaha, right click, copy....


----------



## specvee (Feb 23, 2007)

Sr. Karmann said:


> broken link


http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Steering/220/2


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

specvee said:


> http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Steering/220/2


I have ordered alot from GAP, mostly all of my mechanical items and I have not had any problems with the parts ordered. :thumbup:


----------



## specvee (Feb 23, 2007)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I have ordered alot from GAP, mostly all of my mechanical items and I have not had any problems with the parts ordered. :thumbup:


Oh yeah, i don't hesitate to buy from these guys. I've spent a few grand with them already and never had any issues.

I was just thrown off b/c i definitely have the ZF rack, but my rods don't look like what they have pictured. I wouldn't even have noticed if it weren't for the black ring between the end links.

Either way i'm going to get the ZF rods from them, at this point i'm just curious if they're interchangeable & maybe a PO put the wrong ones on.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

specvee said:


> maybe a PO put the wrong ones on.


:thumbup:


----------



## kevwithoutacorrado (Jun 9, 2000)

kevwithoutacorrado said:


> Hey...
> 
> 
> I've been running really rich lately (tons of black getting on it, bad mpg) and the motor runs really rough while cold. Where should I start?
> ...


I've got:
1231 - VSS
2341 - o2 heater
2342 - o2 sensor

Should I replace the parts, or does anyone have any insight that could help fix the problems? the o2 sensor is not even 4000 miles old... I don't know anything about the VSS beside what it is.

seems low on power, and runs really rich all the time. (black smoke on accell, all rpms.)


then these which are no problem
4312 -egr is removed haven't cut pin 10 yet
2111 - duh. engine not running
4431 - ISV bypassed until I can get hoses replaced. (holes plugged.)


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Kevin, 
Symptoms are consistant with 02, but may be tricked by other sensors. 

Hows the Blue Collant Temp Sensor?

I would replace the VSS or confirm its in all the way, and inspect the 02 harness for breaks/cracks.


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

*Weapon R Intakes?*

Anyone ever put this on a Rado? Does it work on a 93 VR6...is it all bullcrap? not worth it? Just wonderin...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

dfuze1 said:


> Anyone ever put this on a Rado? Does it work on a 93 VR6...is it all bullcrap? not worth it? Just wonderin...


put what?


----------



## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

The steering rack will have this pattern as you can see from the lower right.


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

Weapon r intake...


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> put what?


 Weapon R Intakes....


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

dfuze1 said:


> Weapon R Intakes....












Stop shopping EBAY for performance parts. Or rather...go ahead and waste the money and make no power.


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

I thought I asked Kyle, but thanks for answering me anyhow. I guess that means no. Great poster by the way.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

dfuze1 said:


> I thought I asked Kyle, but thanks for answering me anyhow. I guess that means no. Great poster by the way.


I agree completely with him.

Either find an old school turn2 intake or keep the stock airbox. Those are the only two that will keep decent power. The eurosport one is nice though but probably won't gain any power at all.

Ebay junk is what it is... junk


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

dfuze1 said:


> I thought I asked Kyle


:what:

No you asked the Experts in this thread. If you wanted to just ask Kyle should have sent him a PM.

Lose the tude. 

X2 on the Turn 2 Intake. Best aftermarket intake ever made for the VR6 to date. Only one to have porven gains as well. 

X2 on the stock Airbox which has been proven to make more power with a paper filter over a K&N by the people in the 12v VR6 forum who dyno'd.


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

Thanks man. I appreciate the advice, THAT's what i was looking, some type of SUGGESTION, though the poster was great, it didnt really help any.


----------



## 90slow_rado (Dec 2, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> opposite = ABA crossflow on a PG bottom end and if you have the opportunity to go 16v, do it :thumbup::thumbup:


well i do and i dont... i'm still looking for a 16v head if i go that route. just thought maybe i'd see if i cant use my g60 head. it has some goodies:laugh: but thanks:beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

90slow_rado said:


> well i do and i dont... i'm still looking for a 16v head if i go that route. just thought maybe i'd see if i cant use my g60 head. it has some goodies:laugh: but thanks:beer:


:beer:


----------



## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

okay i was wondering on how to change the crank and power steering pulley on my 1992 rado vr6?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

90slow_rado said:


> well i do and i dont... i'm still looking for a 16v head if i go that route. just thought maybe i'd see if i cant use my g60 head. it has some goodies:laugh: but thanks:beer:


You can't just throw a 16v head on a g60. You need different pistons if you use the g60 bottom end. Compression will be way too low otherwise



bpodlesnik said:


> okay i was wondering on how to change the crank and power steering pulley on my 1992 rado vr6?


A bit broad of a question. You loosen the tensioner and pull the belt, then remove the pulleys. Crank pulley will fight you use an impact gun.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> You can't just throw a 16v head on a g60. You need different pistons if you use the g60 bottom end. Compression will be way too low otherwise


And IIRC, interference issues


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> And IIRC, interference issues


There shouldn't be interference issues unless you throw a t-belt


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> There shouldn't be interference issues unless you throw a t-belt


Chek the piston conversion  










8V....


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Chek the piston conversion



Yes the exhaust valves would hit with those pistons that raise the compression appropriately but on the stock bottom end there would be no issues. Same as using an ABA bottom end. No issues with valve clearances.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Yes the exhaust valves would hit with those pistons that raise the compression appropriately but on the stock bottom end there would be no issues. Same as using an ABA bottom end. No issues with valve clearances.



Cool, just coulda sworn I read somewhere that there would be interference issues without pistons or a head spacer, but since Mr. Burnsy says


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Cool, just coulda sworn I read somewhere that there would be interference issues without pistons or a head spacer, but since Mr. Burnsy says


There is enough clearance. If you see how far down the pistons sit on an 8v bottom end in comparison you would see.

My 9a bottom end the pistons were flush with the deck maybe a touch higher. 8v stuff sits bellow the deck a good bit.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> There is enough clearance. If you see how far down the pistons sit on an 8v bottom end in comparison you would see.
> 
> My 9a bottom end the pistons were flush with the deck maybe a touch higher. 8v stuff sits bellow the deck a good bit.


I was actually recalling mine when I removed the head, the pistons do not come to the deck, rather about a half an inch from it...


----------



## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> You can't just throw a 16v head on a g60. You need different pistons if you use the g60 bottom end. Compression will be way too low otherwise
> 
> 
> 
> A bit broad of a question. You loosen the tensioner and pull the belt, then remove the pulleys. Crank pulley will fight you use an impact gun.


yeah that was more of the problem was thank crank pulley..thanks though..


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

Anybody have any good ideas on removing the information stickers from the door jams without damaging them for paint? I'm afraid if I peel them off they wont be sticky enough to reapply or be to curled to lay flat.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

have them taped off for base coat and then cleared. Otherwise youll have a hard time keeping them intact. :thumbup:

PAINT!!! You too now...so I guess I better step up my game...lol


----------



## Volkswoot (Mar 9, 2004)

*ABS System*

Sorry, I'm not all that bright sometimes, wish I would of found this thread earlier. I appologize for my random extra threads I've created looking for answers. 

on to the questions. 

1990 G60

SS lines, drilled rotors

ABS Light is on, pedal is rock solid 

A) want to get the flash codes but need the list of whats what please. 

B) i dont care if the ABS works exactly like its supposed to, i just want the power assist to work. is there a way to just make the pump come on ? 

I'm clueless about abs systems, but I run a small enthusiast dub shop with a friend working as a mechanic doing everything from rebuilding engines, timing chains/belts, breaks, suspension, wiring etc etc.. 
I don't know everything but i feel like i know a little. :laugh: lol

Thank you very much guys, and sorry again for the idiocy 

Josh


----------



## eraagentavi (Dec 18, 2006)

*Starting issue..about to give up.*

hey guys i really need you help on this one please..i m having starting issues im not sure if the the starter, ignition switch, coil or just busted motor. its a 93 vr6 with dist. i just had the starter rebuilt, fresh battery and new fuel pump put in. it cranked and turned over a few months ago, but lots of white smoke coming out of tail pipe also the noise dampner from my IAC valve blew up i was able to glue it back together. i fully charged the battery try to crank but it wont start i am getting spark from coil wire but it looks weak to me..it trys to start but then it sound as if something just stops the engine from turning over abruptly im not sure if something internally is screwed up. i changed the plugs they were black and fouled it looked like oil and sut were all over them..i dont know if anyone locally can come by and dignose it for me. im in queens nyc close to JFK. im about to scrap it if i dont get it going.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

eraagentavi said:


> hey guys i really need you help on this one please..i m having starting issues im not sure if the the starter, ignition switch, coil or just busted motor. its a 93 vr6 with dist. i just had the starter rebuilt, fresh battery and new fuel pump put in. it cranked and turned over a few months ago, but lots of white smoke coming out of tail pipe also the noise dampner from my IAC valve blew up i was able to glue it back together. i fully charged the battery try to crank but it wont start i am getting spark from coil wire but it looks weak to me..it trys to start but then it sound as if something just stops the engine from turning over abruptly im not sure if something internally is screwed up. i changed the plugs they were black and fouled it looked like oil and sut were all over them..i dont know if anyone locally can come by and dignose it for me. im in queens nyc close to JFK. im about to scrap it if i dont get it going.


^^Why did you start *2 * threads about this at the same time (first page of the forum) and also post the same (again) here


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## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

Volkswoot said:


> Sorry, I'm not all that bright sometimes, wish I would of found this thread earlier. I appologize for my random extra threads I've created looking for answers.
> 
> on to the questions.
> 
> ...


 Step one is to determine if your pump is running or not, since all your assist comes from the pump, and accumulator. If you turn on the ignition the ABS pump should energize, and pressurize the system. if it does not, your problem is electrical. I.E. Pressure switch, Relay, Fuse, or faulty pump. 
If it runs, and runs, and runs, but no pressure is built up then your problem is hydraulic.


----------



## Volkswoot (Mar 9, 2004)

NoCYet said:


> Step one is to determine if your pump is running or not, since all your assist comes from the pump, and accumulator. If you turn on the ignition the ABS pump should energize, and pressurize the system. if it does not, your problem is electrical. I.E. Pressure switch, Relay, Fuse, or faulty pump.
> If it runs, and runs, and runs, but no pressure is built up then your problem is hydraulic.



Thanks for the reply, so should i be able to hear / feel the pump coming on ? because I hear / feel nothing. Having a buddy turn the key on while my hand is on the pump and stethoscope on the pump as well, i do not hear anything happen.

what is the most common issue with it? everything ive fixed so far has been super easy stupid sh1t.. oxidized connections, bad diode's, bad grounds, etc, etc.

the car just seem's like its been molested and poorly taken care of by a series of idiots with no mechanical ethic at all.

I have yet to get a bentley for my C, the imports parts place around me is out of them.


----------



## paulytits (Jun 13, 2007)

are the foglight adjusters these things on the back that you can turn with a little wrench? i put new ones on yesterday finally. :thumbup:


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

DUBZAK said:


> have them taped off for base coat and then cleared. Otherwise youll have a hard time keeping them intact. :thumbup:
> 
> PAINT!!! You too now...so I guess I better step up my game...lol


I don't know how I feel about taping them and spraying around them.

Does this sound like it might work: Use a hair dryer on low to help loosen the sticker and put it on some wax paper. Spray base. Then peel off the sticker on the wax paper and maybe spray some adhesive. Reapply, then clear coat?


----------



## dasbeast3.0 (Aug 15, 2007)

Nick I think your going to have a hell of a difficult time saving those. They've been stuck there for the better part of 20 years. Try the hairdryer method, thats really the only thing to do other than masking off, or removing them completely, which is what I'd do.  If you take a few pics and sizes etc. you can prob have new ones made that look damn similar. Picky bastard :laugh:


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

dasbeast3.0 said:


> Nick I think your going to have a hell of a difficult time saving those. They've been stuck there for the better part of 20 years. Try the hairdryer method, thats really the only thing to do other than masking off, or removing them completely, which is what I'd do.  If you take a few pics and sizes etc. you can prob have new ones made that look damn similar. Picky bastard :laugh:


It's funny you mention getting replicas made. That was my original idea the entire time I just haven't looked around to see if a sticker/vinyl shop can do it. I will probably start my search this week. Your right I am a picky bastard. :laugh:


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

Oh great experts! Lend me your knowledge.
PG crossflow conversion with a turbocharger. Still using Digi. I also installed the abf alternator. After the alternator install my battery light comes on. I have the D+ wire hooked up. When I unhook the D+ exciter wire the light goes off. 
Why does the light go off when the exciter wire is not connected? 
Is having the battery light off mean my battery is not charging?
Is it ok to have the wire not connected?
Could this be due to the fact that the original system is a 120 amp system and the ABF is only a 90 amp system?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

turtledub said:


> Oh great experts! Lend me your knowledge.
> PG crossflow conversion with a turbocharger. Still using Digi. I also installed the abf alternator. After the alternator install my battery light comes on. I have the D+ wire hooked up. When I unhook the D+ exciter wire the light goes off.
> Why does the light go off when the exciter wire is not connected?
> Is having the battery light off mean my battery is not charging?
> ...


There are two terminals on the ABF alternator. One is for diesels the other is for gas engines. You need to be sure you are using the correct one. Also check for any shorts in the wire.
The amperage of the system will have no effect on the light. It is just looking for voltage.


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

TheBurninator said:


> There are two terminals on the ABF alternator. One is for diesels the other is for gas engines. You need to be sure you are using the correct one. Also check for any shorts in the wire.
> The amperage of the system will have no effect on the light. It is just looking for voltage.


I tried both terminals. I guess I will have to check for shorts.


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

I checked the wires and they all looked good. Why does the light go off when the wire is not connected and it comes on when the wire is connected? If I leave the wire off is my battery draining?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

bump


----------



## Rancor (Jun 8, 2010)

*Jargon*

'ey guys
ok... I'm going through this thread from the beginning just to see if I can soak up some knowledge, since I'm new to the Corrado(and DIY repair/mod), it's been tough with the acronyms and such. If a few of you could post whatever terms I need to know, it would be super-helpful going through the 60+ pages of Q's & A's here. A few that have kept me up at night:
MK1/2/3
OBD1/2
A6 - possibly chassis codes for golf/jetta/passat?

Thanks, from a future, former new guy.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Rancor said:


> 'ey guys
> ok... I'm going through this thread from the beginning just to see if I can soak up some knowledge, since I'm new to the Corrado(and DIY repair/mod), it's been tough with the acronyms and such. If a few of you could post whatever terms I need to know, it would be super-helpful going through the 60+ pages of Q's & A's here. A few that have kept me up at night:
> MK1/2/3
> OBD1/2
> ...


Mk1 / 2 / 3 Are chassis codes for Golf / Jetta. The newest GTI is a Mk6 (mark 6)
OBD 1 & 2 are computer diagnostics systems
google search these and you'll be loaded with info


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

turtledub said:


> I checked the wires and they all looked good. Why does the light go off when the wire is not connected and it comes on when the wire is connected? If I leave the wire off is my battery draining?


Anyone on this?


----------



## jettakid45 (Jun 20, 2010)

*obd not reading*

ok i have a 2000 vw jetta gls 2.0 4cyl and i went to get an inspection and when the obd was hooked up the computer couldnt read my cars emmision test i heard that if you have changed your radio that it could mess up the obd connector is this true please help


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

turtledub said:


> Anyone on this?


 Voltage issues. You have a lot of inspections to do. Everything stated prior was correct. Amps dont trip the light, lack of voltage will. Refer to the bentley for the voltage regulator and the rest of the system and look for broken wires. Battery terminals, grounds, EVERYTHING is suspect. 



jettakid45 said:


> ok i have a 2000 vw jetta gls 2.0 4cyl and i went to get an inspection and when the obd was hooked up the computer couldnt read my cars emmision test i heard that if you have changed your radio that it could mess up the obd connector is this true please help


Um......Corrado forum. the MK4 Forum is here....Jetta Forum...Noob


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Um......Corrado forum. the MK4 Forum is here....Jetta Forum...Noob


Funny how they make it in here, I guess C owners really "are" the experts :laugh:


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## g60nw (Mar 30, 2010)

So my reverse lights recently started coming on sometimes when the car is shifted into first. usually right after having come out of reverse. I am not familiar with the clutch system and how it works in the rado but looking to figure out what is causing it.


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## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

I've been looking around for a new Belt Tensioner & didn't realize they came with a plastic pulley. Is it a good idea to replace it with a metal one? GermanAutoParts has an aluminum pulley for $80 which isnt too much less then the OE tensioner. Is this a bit pricey or about average?

___________________________________________


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

g60nw said:


> So my reverse lights recently started coming on sometimes when the car is shifted into first. usually right after having come out of reverse. I am not familiar with the clutch system and how it works in the rado but looking to figure out what is causing it.


13mm and a friend to adjust your linkange Look for the shift weight on top of the trans you'll see the bolt.. Sounds ike it's mis-aligned. If not, shifter bushings are done. 

prjktrado...Gruven tensioner pulley on a brand new tensioner. Accept no substitute. Except the rest of their pulleys... :laugh: There are substitutes avalable at EPP.


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## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

Thanks man, Gruven FTW! 

EPP? Yeah this is when I go back to sounding like a newbie.....again. :laugh:

_______________________________________


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

g60nw said:


> So my reverse lights recently started coming on sometimes when the car is shifted into first. usually right after having come out of reverse. I am not familiar with the clutch system and how it works in the rado but looking to figure out what is causing it.


Before you start trying to adjust your shifter, lube up the switch on top of the tranny, sounds like the switch is just sticking closed


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

PrjktRado1 said:


> Thanks man, Gruven FTW!
> 
> EPP? Yeah this is when I go back to sounding like a newbie.....again. :laugh:
> 
> _______________________________________


EPP is European Performance Products... they have a lot of good OE stuff that is hard to find in the US, or isn't / wasn't available in the US. (I've used their site to snag part numbers for stuff for my G60). You know there's a friendly VW shop right down the road from you in Port Charlotte that can get you parts too! :beer:

$70 for that tensioner... German-made, but I believe it is a plastic pulley.


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## specvee (Feb 23, 2007)

Ok, so i am bringing this up again now that i actually received the parts from GAP... Top picture shows what was on the ZF rack in my VR6 and seems to match what i've seen in other posts. This is also how the Bently shows the VR6 rod. 

Bottom picture shows what GAP sent me. Is this just an updated part? The threads seem identical and length is adjustable on rods, so i cant see the harm in using them... but if any of you experts know better, than i'd like to know before i install them.


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## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

*Rado Idling*

Hello, I hope someone can give me some insight. Here's the issue: Bought the 93 Rado bout 4 months ago, it was a daily driver for the previous owner and when i bought it, it was running fine. I didnt drive it much really and then i removed the intake air box to clean it and replace the filter. It sat for about a month without the air intake and without starting it. I finally bought the filter and reinstalled the air intake box and now the car is IDLING!! :banghead:
ANY insight on how I can resolve this issue, i would really appreciated it thanks!


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

To the above poster, you mean...you can't get the car to rev? Is your accelerator cable broken?



Does anyone know if a MKIII radiator fan will work? 

My situation is, the bearing ( :what: ) not the motor went on my fan assembly, so I just need a new non powered fan, but I can't seem to find any rado fan assemblys, let alone any dummy fans from a rado...this is my current conundrum with the car, any ideas?


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

*Rado Idling*

My car starts fine, but it idles consistently...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

dfuze1 said:


> Hello, I hope someone can give me some insight. Here's the issue: Bought the 93 Rado bout 4 months ago, it was a daily driver for the previous owner and when i bought it, it was running fine. I didnt drive it much really and then i removed the intake air box to clean it and replace the filter. It sat for about a month without the air intake and without starting it. I finally bought the filter and reinstalled the air intake box and now the car is IDLING!! :banghead:
> ANY insight on how I can resolve this issue, i would really appreciated it thanks!


last I checked idling was a good thing.


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

dfuze1 said:


> My car starts fine, but it idles consistently...


Would you prefer it idles inconsistently? :laugh::what:


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

I need a suggestion as to what would be the best brand of Ignition wires for a Distributor VR6. If anyone would provide a link that would be even better.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

chrisd1891 said:


> Would you prefer it idles inconsistently?


:banghead::banghead::banghead:


----------



## wed3k (Feb 22, 2010)

so just to confirm, the hood that has the middle part lower than the outer edges is an early G60? and the one that is raised in the middle is a later one? and they did that in preparation for the vr6 because the block is tall...


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Chris...MK3 Shroud is different due to the different size rad. the fans have a different PN too, but I believe it can be done if you take the mk3 fan out, and install it in a Corrado Shroud.

MK3 rad mod is also a common one especially for swap cars. Places the rad striaghter in the front as well as being bigger than the SLC one.


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

*Rado idling*

Maybe my NOOB language isnt the best to describe the problem...when i start the car, the RPM gauge goes up and down, up and down like if i was rev'n the car with the gas pedal, but m not. Is that any better of a description?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Dfuze, you have a vaccum/intake leak or a bad ISV. 
Refer to the bentley to make sure you have everything connected and do NOT disconnect or reconnect the ISV with the car running.


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

*Rado idling*

Thanks ZAck, Im looking at the Bentley now...gonna ck in a minute to see if i forgot to plug something in...:beer:


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

TheLateJetta said:


> I need a suggestion as to what would be the best brand of Ignition wires for a Distributor VR6. If anyone would provide a link that would be even better.


:thumbup:


----------



## VpfinnersW (Jun 14, 2005)

Hello experts,

I recently took my G60 to get the emissions tested and it failed for the CO% at idle. 1.2 is the threshold and mine failed at 1.52. For background info, the car passed a few months earlier in MD, but maybe WA standards are different. I also was stuck in bad traffic before getting tested so maybe that played a role? I also know my timing is advanced, but not sure how much because I wasn't the one who adjusted it. 

So, what should I fix/replace? I think I'll start with the easy items like changing the oil (one search said "diluted oil" can cause high CO % at idle) and spark plugs. Could a bad o2 sensor cause this? 

TIA for your input.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

TheLateJetta said:


> :thumbup:


I have always liked eurosport wires. but for the most part wires are wires. :thumbup:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

VpfinnersW said:


> Hello experts,
> 
> I recently took my G60 to get the emissions tested and it failed for the CO% at idle. 1.2 is the threshold and mine failed at 1.52. For background info, the car passed a few months earlier in MD, but maybe WA standards are different. I also was stuck in bad traffic before getting tested so maybe that played a role? I also know my timing is advanced, but not sure how much because I wasn't the one who adjusted it.
> 
> ...


That probably didn't help at all. Set your timing to stock. The ECU will try to push it back anyways if it isn't set to stock.

Change the oil, set timing back to stock, run the car on the highway right before the test to get the cat nice and hot.


----------



## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

Just out of curiosity if someone can explain the operation. I had a no start condition on my G60 Automatic. Initially since it had a dead cylinder caused by low compression it did not matter to me much that to start it the starter solenoid needed to be jumped right from the battery. Now since I finished swapping in the other motor and I have run into an issue with the new replacement ignition switch. Looking at the wiring diagrams with the switch unplugged when you jumper the plug red wire constant battery to the red black wire there should be battery voltage present at the solenoid wire. In my case there was no voltage until I replaced the switch for the second time and installed the plug. Right now I can start the engine using the ignition key. Is there something I am missing preventing battery voltage from reaching the starter when the plug is removed?


----------



## Slowrrado (Jan 13, 2004)

What kind of socket/tool is required to get the flywheel bolts off of a VR6 Corrado?


----------



## Nostalgia (Sep 25, 2003)

DUBZAK said:


> If not, shifter bushings are done.



I think this is my problem. It is VERY difficult to put the car in to first gear. Second is harder than it should be. I looked at the linkage with a helper and it looks like it's just not pushing the "thing" far enough over to the one side to get into first properly.

Sound right? Bushings? Might my cable be stretched? I think these things have two cables, one for fore and aft movement and one for side to side.

Can anyone recommend a decent shifter rebuild kit and where I might find it? Does anyone make such a thing?

Edit for pic for owning page 67


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

Slowrrado said:


> What kind of socket/tool is required to get the flywheel bolts off of a VR6 Corrado?


triple square socket.


----------



## Dub A (Feb 19, 2007)

1980 Rabbit , 2.0l bottom 1.8l head, 1.9l rods turbo car, runs off SDS, MSD ignition, race car.

Pedal is stiff
Not a complete expert but I have worked on every vw that I have owned

What would be causing the initial touch on the pedal to be non existent it is hard enough that i have to give it a good push and makes it extremely hard to get it on and off the trailer.

After the initial push it seems to be decent just curious is wd-40 the correct answer?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Nostalgia said:


> I think this is my problem. It is VERY difficult to put the car in to first gear. Second is harder than it should be. I looked at the linkage with a helper and it looks like it's just not pushing the "thing" far enough over to the one side to get into first properly.
> *Try loosening the bolt, move the shifter further to the left, tighten it. Bolt on top of the weight located at cables end on trans. If not, again Bushings.*
> 
> Sound right? Bushings? Might my cable be stretched? *
> ...





Noobercorn said:


> *10mm *triple square socket.


  Sup dood.


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Chris...MK3 Shroud is different due to the different size rad. the fans have a different PN too, but I believe it can be done if you take the mk3 fan out, and install it in a Corrado Shroud.
> 
> MK3 rad mod is also a common one especially for swap cars. Places the rad striaghter in the front as well as being bigger than the SLC one.


Alright, that sounds good. There's a cheap local one on craigslist that I might pick up for a Mk3, I guess I'll mess around with it and try to make it work. :beer:


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

so running a mk3 radiator is better than a stock SLC one?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

1broknrado said:


> so running a mk3 radiator is better than a stock SLC one?


It is a matter of what you have around.

For your case I would say yes since you have a shaved bay. You can set the rad strait and under the support completely.


----------



## paulytits (Jun 13, 2007)

is there a fuse for the seat belts? mine never worked, and some fuses could be blown in my car for all i know(it was even missing the stereo fuse). don't have an owners manual either. anyone have a fuse setup diagram??


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

paulytits said:


> is there a fuse for the seat belts? mine never worked, and some fuses could be blown in my car for all i know(it was even missing the stereo fuse). don't have an owners manual either. anyone have a fuse setup diagram??


Behind both rear panels ("door" panels for lack of a better term) there is a seat belt motor. Each motor has a huge relay *and* a fuse. Some people just remove the fuses and relays with the seatbelts in the "occupied" position so as to avoid a common cause of Corrado fires. Which are bad.

Gotta throw in the disclaimer: I am not endorsing the alteration of any of your vehicle's saftey systems.

There is a Euro seat belt option out there, EPP carries it if you're willing to lay down the money.


----------



## paulytits (Jun 13, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> Behind both rear panels ("door" panels for lack of a better term) there is a seat belt motor. Each motor has a huge relay *and* a fuse. Some people just remove the fuses and relays with the seatbelts in the "occupied" position so as to avoid a common cause of Corrado fires. Which are bad.
> 
> Gotta throw in the disclaimer: I am not endorsing the alteration of any of your vehicle's saftey systems.
> 
> There is a Euro seat belt option out there, EPP carries it if you're willing to lay down the money.


ah someone might have beat me to it. they dont move and ive never heard a noise or anything coming from them since the day i owned the car. i wont mess with it then, **** that.


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

PM sent kyle


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

paulytits said:


> is there a fuse for the seat belts? mine never worked, and some fuses could be blown in my car for all i know(it was even missing the stereo fuse). don't have an owners manual either. anyone have a fuse setup diagram??


Get a bentley.


----------



## ratatat (Nov 28, 2008)

I have a 90 chargerless Corrado. It hgas been bypassed and all that stuff. I bought it nonrunning, with a timing belt, it started right back up luckily. 

my problem now is on my illegal test drives, I have no power going up hills at all really. I mean it will make it, I may have to even go all the way down to first or second, but she will make it. I have smelled gas in the oil and have since stopped from any further joyrides.

I love the car, I am just really confused why i have no power when it starts fine, idles fine, runs fine, but does seem to be slow all over, it doesnt have its giddy up at all.

I have changed the fuel filter
checked the distributor/wires for correct position
changed the coolant sensors
checked the plugs
changed out the old nasty coolant
fixed the parts of my harness that had been eaten off by mice
changed Oil (twice in hopes I had solved the gas into the oil problem)
changed the valve cover gasket 9stopped the smoking from the manifold)
replaced battery cables
checked the ISV

I know most of what I have done is general maintanence, but I would like to work on whatever is causing my car to not have power.

Been told a headgasket maybe, but before I dive into that, I was looking to see if you all had any better ideas. I know a bypasss for the charger is ok, and it will still run a bit rich, but I dont see how that would explain this amount of gas in the oil.

So my main questions are, what is causing my lack of power? and why do I have gas in the oil?

I hope you guys have a clue, thank you all :beer:


----------



## pug_nasty (Jun 17, 2009)

Hey guys I have an oil leak in my g60. Theres oil in the boost return hose, all over everything near the charger and it drips a few spots overnight. The charger was supposed to be rebuilt before i bought it, but who knows. Should i replace the oil seals or is it something bigger? Thx a lot.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

ratatat said:


> I have a 90 chargerless Corrado. It hgas been bypassed and all that stuff. I bought it nonrunning, with a timing belt, it started right back up luckily.
> 
> my problem now is on my illegal test drives, I have no power going up hills at all really. I mean it will make it, I may have to even go all the way down to first or second, but she will make it. I have smelled gas in the oil and have since stopped from any further joyrides.
> 
> ...


ITZ GONNA BE SLOW AS BALLS, 8v low compression motor, throw a G back on it :thumbup:



pug_nasty said:


> Hey guys I have an oil leak in my g60. Theres oil in the boost return hose, all over everything near the charger and it drips a few spots overnight. The charger was supposed to be rebuilt before i bought it, but who knows. Should i replace the oil seals or is it something bigger? Thx a lot.


Sounds like a charger bearing seal, but clean the crap out of everything and see "exactly" where itz coming from ...


----------



## Dub A (Feb 19, 2007)

1980 Rabbit , 2.0l bottom 1.8l head, 1.9l rods turbo car, runs off SDS, MSD ignition, race car.

Pedal is stiff
Not a complete expert but I have worked on every vw that I have owned

What would be causing the initial touch on the pedal to be non existent it is hard enough that i have to give it a good push and makes it extremely hard to get it on and off the trailer.

Thanks In Advance


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Dub A said:


> 1980 Rabbit , 2.0l bottom 1.8l head, 1.9l rods turbo car, runs off SDS, MSD ignition, race car.
> 
> Pedal is stiff
> Not a complete expert but I have worked on every vw that I have owned
> ...


try this... http://forums.vwvortex.com/forumdisplay.php?11-Golf-I-amp-Jetta-I


----------



## Dub A (Feb 19, 2007)

Sr. Karmann said:


> try this... http://forums.vwvortex.com/forumdisplay.php?11-Golf-I-amp-Jetta-I


It goes to the generic page


----------



## Dub A (Feb 19, 2007)

Dub A said:


> It goes to the generic page


THink I found it thank you


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> EPP is European Performance Products... they have a lot of good OE stuff that is hard to find in the US, or isn't / wasn't available in the US. (I've used their site to snag part numbers for stuff for my G60). You know there's a friendly VW shop right down the road from you in Port Charlotte that can get you parts too! :beer:
> 
> $70 for that tensioner... German-made, but I believe it is a plastic pulley.


I Don't get down to PC too often but it's good to know you're there when the need arises.:thumbup:So the one you carry is OE? Pretty sure most, if not all come w/a plastic pulley. 

_____________________________________________________


----------



## Slowrrado (Jan 13, 2004)

Slowrrado said:


> What kind of socket/tool is required to get the flywheel bolts off of a VR6 Corrado?





Noobercorn said:


> triple square socket.



Happen to know what size?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Slowrrado said:


> Happen to know what size?


They sell a set of three at Autozone :thumbup:


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

PrjktRado1 said:


> I Don't get down to PC too often but it's good to know you're there when the need arises.:thumbup:So the one you carry is OE? Pretty sure most, if not all come w/a plastic pulley.
> 
> _____________________________________________________



The one I can get at that price is made by Ruville (in Germany). I don't believe they are the OE supplier for VW on this particular part, but they are a good quality brand. We don't sell "white-box" parts here! :thumbup:

Keep us in mind! If you don't want to make the drive, UPS ground to Venice is cheap and only takes one day!


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Slowrrado said:


> Happen to know what size?


10mm for flywheel. 

I bought mine from the snap on guy directly. Also got the long 12mm for the OE head bolts. :thumbup:

Find a Snap On Sales Truck and they have both 3/8" and 1/2" drive. :beer:


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## 2925 (Dec 11, 2007)

Seeing as there are enough turbo'd corrado's I'll ask here.
The "budget" turbo I have has oil and water cooling, where is an optimum place to tap for incoming coolant, and then best place to reroute it(I'm guessing right before it goes back into the rad)?


----------



## ratatat (Nov 28, 2008)

A bit more info I found today. 2 cylinders arent firing. the two middle ones are getting spark, but are not firing., when I took off the wires the engine stayed the same, and when I put a screwdriver down the wires it sparked like mad. 

As I looked in the bentley to check wire order then I procede to check them in my car, as soon as I switched the 3rd and 2nd wires I could hear the difference right away when I fired it up. The car now has spunk, and I am quite happy with it, even if its chargerless. I will change the oil again now, and hopefully fix the other issues holding me back from getting it inspected. Thank you Sr. Karmann, but I have to disagree with the charger comment, I felt the car living tonight and I liked where it is. I personally rather not have power, I just like having the coolest VW ever built.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

ratatat said:


> I personally rather not have power, I just like having the coolest VW ever built.


:screwy:


----------



## G0to60 (Jun 23, 2003)

I have a seemingly simple problem that I'm just having a hell of time with. How can I get the jamb nut off of the tie rod when it's rusted on? I don't want to damage the tie rod by cutting the nut off but is that my only option? What's some other solutions?

Here's the culprit:


----------



## wed3k (Feb 22, 2010)

have you tried heat?


----------



## LashCM (Jul 1, 2010)

91 MK2 Jetta 8v

I'm a noob and I have a question. Can I put a supercharged corrado motor and ecu in my jetta? Any modifications need for my harness?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

2925 said:


> Seeing as there are enough turbo'd corrado's I'll ask here.
> The "budget" turbo I have has oil and water cooling, where is an optimum place to tap for incoming coolant, and then best place to reroute it(I'm guessing right before it goes back into the rad)?


I personally would get a VR secondary water pump and put it in line to that suckka with a feed from one of the rad lines or heater core lines. Should be an easy add on. 



ratatat said:


> I personally rather not have power, I just like having the coolest VW ever built.


 :what:

Like wining a gold in the special olympics. Congrats, but your still retarded. 
Your low compression 8v has MAYBE 100 horses. You have never had a car that made power have you? 




G0to60 said:


> I don't want to damage the tie rod by cutting the nut off but is that my only option? What's some other solutions?


Heat it up, or yeah, cut that mofo off. 



LashCM said:


> 91 MK2 Jetta 8v
> 
> I'm a noob and I have a question. Can I put a supercharged corrado motor and ecu in my jetta? Any modifications need for my harness?


Um, yes. Before you want to commit yourself to future suicide due to G60, go check out the g60 forum, and the hybrid swap forums. MK2 forums as well. Somone has done the swap and you will need to do a lot of reading up you noob. 

BTW G60's came in MK2's in Europe. see da google? 

If you would rather a VR6 and a blower, thats much easier IMO. :laugh:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

wrong forum. Try the Golf/Jetta MK4 forums found HERE. 

and most likely yes, you'll be drilling holes.


----------



## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

Try heat and a pipe wrench. You can find one at a ACE, Home Depot or any other home center. Otehr option is to cut the nut in a few places and hope it cracks off when you try turning it. 


G0to60 said:


>


----------



## LashCM (Jul 1, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Um, yes. Before you want to commit yourself to future suicide due to G60, go check out the g60 forum, and the hybrid swap forums. MK2 forums as well. Somone has done the swap and you will need to do a lot of reading up you noob.
> 
> BTW G60's came in MK2's in Europe. see da google?
> 
> If you would rather a VR6 and a blower, thats much easier IMO. :laugh:



So a vr6 out a mk3 glx would be my best bet? Thanx for you help bro!!!!!


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

LashCM said:


> So a vr6 out a mk3 glx would be my best bet? Thanx for you help bro!!!!!


MK2 forums for your answers there.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Noobercorn said:


> triple square socket.


You really are a ****in noob.

and dubzak is too since you both got it wrong :screwy:


12point 9mm socket. Welcome to the forum noobs :laugh:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> MK2 forums for your answers there.


How is this thread being used by all but C owners now, WTF??? :screwy:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> You really are a ****in noob.
> 
> and dubzak is too since you both got it wrong :screwy:
> 
> ...


lol then mine were custom 10mm. or I used the wrong Tripple Square. And WTF do you think a 12 point is Kyle.....:sly:  :laugh:


----------



## LoneStar99 (Mar 15, 2009)

im gonna be relocating to germany hopefully soon so my question is cdan 2.8 parts be used on the 2.9? should be mostly the same, right


----------



## redrocket18 (Nov 5, 2009)

Okay i got a question i have a 1990 G60 corrado i am going to be getting racelands coilovers for. I also got a new set of wheels that are 17's with a 40 offset. So my question is what size spacers should i go with so that my tires wont rub on my fenders.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

wantacad said:


> .:thumbdown:


:laugh: I saw it too....

Un quote that Mofo and sit back to watch the PERMA BAN rain that has been brought upon him.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

redrocket18 said:


> Okay i got a question i have a 1990 G60 corrado i am going to be getting racelands coilovers for. I also got a new set of wheels that are 17's with a 40 offset. So my question is what size spacers should i go with so that my tires wont rub on my fenders.


While you are at Wal-Mart picking up your coils, ask the mechanics counter for help, they are very informative :thumbup:


----------



## paulytits (Jun 13, 2007)

does anyone know of anything that removes the orange sticky glue crap that holds the cloth headliner from the moonroof on? mine finally ripped and i had to pull it off and i cant stand to look at that horrible orange **** on my interior. id imagine someone has to know something


----------



## redrocket18 (Nov 5, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> While you are at Wal-Mart picking up your coils, ask the mechanics counter for help, they are very informative :thumbup:


I would get better ones but i dont think mcdonalds will pay me enough to get good ones so racelands is my option


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

redrocket18 said:


> Okay i got a question i have a 1990 G60 corrado i am going to be getting racelands coilovers for. I also got a new set of wheels that are 17's with a 40 offset. So my question is what size spacers should i go with so that my tires wont rub on my fenders.


When I had 17''s et40 (also G60) with 205/40 tires I used to run 5mm (front & back) spacers with no problems, they cleared both coilovers and fenders...I imagine 7mm (maybe even 10mm) would be ok.

About the coilovers (and Chad's comment )...bad decision man, and this is coming from a guy who is is on budget coils, in the long run...well they SUCK  
What bothers me the most is that I now know that If I would've save just for a few more months I could end up with a nicer set, but you have to make mistakes to learn


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

paulytits said:


> does anyone know of anything that removes the orange sticky glue crap that holds the cloth headliner from the moonroof on? mine finally ripped and i had to pull it off and i cant stand to look at that horrible orange **** on my interior. id imagine someone has to know something


Should knock off with a bristle brush, if it is sort of flaky, I had to take mine down with a sanding cloth due to the glue the original guy that re-covered mine used... But you will still have an ugly ass headliner until you recover it. Do not use harsh chemicals or it will eat the foam. If you have it down, just re-cover it, cost you maybe $40


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

Is there an easy way to fish the wires out of the rear hatch? I have to replace mine due to some rust around the rear window and for paint soon.

I got everything disconnected and removed (what a pain in the arse that was, only cut myself twice) Now all I have to do is fish the wires out from the bottom all the way out the top. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advanced experts!


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

iAco said:


> Is there an easy way to fish the wires out of the rear hatch? I have to replace mine due to some rust around the rear window and for paint soon.
> 
> I got everything disconnected and removed (what a pain in the arse that was, only cut myself twice) Now all I have to do is fish the wires out from the bottom all the way out the top. Any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks in advanced experts!


  It's much easier to go the other way. Pull the wires from the car end rather than from the hatch. You have to remove both C Pillars, underneath you will find a bundle of plugs on both sides, disconnect them all, unbolt the ground, pull the vacuum, and rear washer lines apart. then pull them all out from where they go through the body, and your all set.
pic...


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

NoCYet said:


> It's much easier to go the other way. Pull the wires from the car end rather than from the hatch. You have to remove both C Pillars, underneath you will find a bundle of plugs on both sides, disconnect them all, unbolt the ground, pull the vacuum, and rear washer lines apart. then pull them all out from where they go through the body, and your all set.
> pic...


That is exactly what I needed to see. Thank you. I actually have the entire rear half of the interior stripped so it'll be super easy for me to pull it apart. :beer:


----------



## wantacad (Apr 4, 2003)

DUBZAK said:


> :laugh: I saw it too....
> 
> Un quote that Mofo and sit back to watch the PERMA BAN rain that has been brought upon him.


Damm..mod/admin came through with a broom and swept everything up.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

wantacad said:


> Damm..mod/admin came through with a broom and swept everything up.


Sshh..._they are watching us _









:laugh:


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

I have another quick couple of questions for you guys.
I'm getting ready for some paint and want to take off as many things as possible (hence the hatch post earlier)

The outside door scrapper, how does one remove it without bending it? I know it has a metal wire piece in there so it can bend very easily and not fit again. Any tips would be fantastic.

Also the door pin that the door latches onto. I haven't taken a hard look at it yet, but it looks like you wont be able to get behind it with anything. Does it just screw out from the front?

Thanks. :beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

iAco said:


> I have another quick couple of questions for you guys.
> I'm getting ready for some paint and want to take off as many things as possible (hence the hatch post earlier)
> 
> The outside door scrapper, how does one remove it without bending it? I know it has a metal wire piece in there so it can bend very easily and not fit again. Any tips would be fantastic.
> ...


Remove the window, grab a prybar or long wide flathead screwdriver and you have to *GENTLY* pry off the rubber lip that attaches to the inside of the door, then just pull the strip up, *GENTLY!!!* Also, remove the little triangle squares on the outside of the door by popping off the little screw cap right on the inside and remove the screw, supposedly will slide right out, and the trim rings for the mirrors come off too... Dogger posted the exact method on the mirror trim rings, but I'm not sure where.

The door strikers simply unscrew


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

Many thanks. :beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

iAco said:


> Many thanks. :beer:


:beer:


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Remove the window, grab a prybar or long wide flathead screwdriver and you have to *GENTLY* pry off the rubber lip that attaches to the inside of the door, then just pull the strip up, *GENTLY!!!* Also, remove the little triangle squares on the outside of the door by popping off the little screw cap right on the inside and remove the screw, supposedly will slide right out, and the trim rings for the mirrors come off too... Dogger posted the exact method on the mirror trim rings, but I'm not sure where.
> 
> The door strikers simply unscrew


 Good luck. I destroyed both of mine, and had to buy new ones. $$$ ouch! Then again I'm not very patient... :laugh:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

NoCYet said:


> Good luck. I destroyed both of mine, and had to buy new ones. $$$ ouch! Then again I'm not very patient... :laugh:


I've removed a few  And patience is key :laugh:


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I've removed a few  And patience is key :laugh:



I managed to get both mirrors off as well as the black trim piece. I didn't have time to remove both door windows yet, but I can clearly see how the outside scrapper is attached and should have no issue removing it. Is the swivel part of the mirror base detachable from the mirror portion?




NoCYet said:


> It's much easier to go the other way. Pull the wires from the car end rather than from the hatch. You have to remove both C Pillars, underneath you will find a bundle of plugs on both sides, disconnect them all, unbolt the ground, pull the vacuum, and rear washer lines apart. then pull them all out from where they go through the body, and your all set.
> pic...


Any tip on pushing the wires thru the hatch? The rubber boot that protects the wires from the hatch to the body seems to be in the way. I don't want to force it thru and break a connector and it doesn't look like the boot comes off. I was fighting with it for about a half hour before I called it quits.



Also does anybody have any good products to use to recondition rubber seals/moldings? Mine are still in good shape/crack free they are just fading and look less black.

BTW I love this thread. :beer:


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

The boots will both pop right out of the hole in the body. I haven't pulled it out of the hatch end yet so no help there.


----------



## joerivers6 (Jan 23, 2009)

I dont know if its been covered, but is there some sort of swap quide? or can someone tell me some common swaps in (older) audis?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

joerivers6 said:


> I dont know if its been covered, but is there some sort of swap quide? or can someone tell me some common swaps in (older) audis?


technical forum... http://forums.vwvortex.com/forumdisplay.php?5003-Technical-(VW-Audi)


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

iAco said:


> I managed to get both mirrors off as well as the black trim piece. I didn't have time to remove both door windows yet, but I can clearly see how the outside scrapper is attached and should have no issue removing it. Is the swivel part of the mirror base detachable from the mirror portion?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Wurth makes a Rubber Care Gel Stick that works pretty good if the seals aren't completely shot -- ECS Tuning carries it.


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

*Wheel fitment 92 SLC*

Another wheel fitment question. I saw a thread a while back but cant seem to find it now. The thread showed pics of wheels on car with specs for tires offset etc. Im looking at many different options and would like to go 17x10 in the rear and 17x8 in the front. Not really sure what offset specs are needed to make this work, not even sure if it will work. I will be pulling the fenders once I get the wheels to pull to. Any input?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

iAco said:


> Also does anybody have any good products to use to recondition rubber seals/moldings? Mine are still in good shape/crack free they are just fading and look less black.
> 
> BTW I love this thread. :beer:


Just found this old thread... http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...acken-and-protect-moldings-weather-strippings


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

Perkasie Dubs said:


> Another wheel fitment question. I saw a thread a while back but cant seem to find it now. The thread showed pics of wheels on car with specs for tires offset etc. Im looking at many different options and would like to go 17x10 in the rear and 17x8 in the front. Not really sure what offset specs are needed to make this work, not even sure if it will work. I will be pulling the fenders once I get the wheels to pull to. Any input?


Found the thread. I will see if all the info I need is there. 

http://forums.motivemag.com/showthread.php?3029822#post61571604


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Perkasie Dubs said:


> Found the thread. I will see if all the info I need is there.
> 
> http://forums.motivemag.com/showthread.php?3029822#post61571604


that thread shoulda been stickied :thumbup:


----------



## mrhossg60 (May 9, 2010)

*boost return delete?*

god idea or bad idea? i know the charger gets its lubrication from the vent on the valve cover into the boost return. can u delete the boost return and just spray some lube in the intake with every oil change? i found a twin intake kit http://www.swgmotorsport.com/asps/ShowDetails.asp?id=177 but it lacks the parts to plug the boost return off the TB and valve cover. can u just cap the pipes? (already have pcv reroute) is there actually any performance gains from doin all this? thanks i couldnt find the old threads about this( dont like new tex search)


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

mrhossg60 said:


> god idea or bad idea? i know the charger gets its lubrication from the vent on the valve cover into the boost return. can u delete the boost return and just spray some lube in the intake with every oil change? i found a twin intake kit http://www.swgmotorsport.com/asps/ShowDetails.asp?id=177 but it lacks the parts to plug the boost return off the TB and valve cover. can u just cap the pipes? (already have pcv reroute) is there actually any performance gains from doin all this? thanks i couldnt find the old threads about this( dont like new tex search)


Indecisive subject, some say no (me+others), some say yes... I personally believe the charger utilizes some of the oil mist to lubricate the charger a bit, which is continuous light misting, not periodic. 

You cannot simply cap the breather or TB, breather will need to go to a catch can and TB will need an air filter of some sort. Check through the G60 forum, there are several threads in there that may be of use for you to make an informative decision. IIRC, there was a dyno run done with several different intake setups, SWG included and it did not perform as well as the stock airbox


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

dapucker1 said:


> i'm still having some battery draining issues with my '93 slc..... any ideas


 Sorry to hear this...
Any noticable issues to help diagnose? After run, things staying on after ignition is turned off? Voltage at 14.4v? or close to 14v ?


----------



## dapucker1 (Sep 13, 2004)

thanks zak, i was more less reminding people of the fact that you must be careful with who you trust for your modifications/repairs.... i'd hate to see others get the shaft like some have.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

dapucker1 said:


> thanks zak, i was more less reminding people of the fact that you must be careful with who you trust for your modifications/repairs... aka the creator of this thread. EVERY time i turn the key of the corrado, i'm reminded of how many cars (especially mine) have been harmed by that persons' carelessness. i'd hate to see others get the shaft like i/others have.


Micah you may want to try to use this method to try and at least narrow down which circuit the issue is on:

http://flashoffroad.com/electrical/Batteries/BatteryDrain.html


----------



## dapucker1 (Sep 13, 2004)

thanks kyle, as always, you the man... i still have not found the time to depin those few wires from the block. i'm sure that's my issue. i was hoping to buy manual belts soon and do it all at once.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

TheBurninator said:


> You really are a ****in noob.
> 
> and dubzak is too since you both got it wrong :screwy:
> 
> ...



triple square = 3 squares= 4 points per square= 12 points. 

diagnosing battery drain problems is best done with a voltmeter on the battery, watch closely as fuses are pulled one by one, any deviation in voltage reading when a fuse is puled will indicate which circuit is causing the drain. 

PM sent.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Noobercorn said:


> triple square = 3 squares= 4 points per square= 12 points.


I couldn't math that day:banghead:


----------



## crisvr6 (Jun 14, 2007)

TheBurninator said:


> I couldn't math that day:banghead:


you were then distracted by the ups girl :laugh:


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

TheBurninator said:


> I couldn't math that day:banghead:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Noobercorn said:


> triple square = 3 squares= 4 points per square= 12 points.



Quadruple triangle??? :laugh:


----------



## papasgot14u (Jul 7, 2010)

*ECM issues???*

I bought gas at Wal-Mart 10 days ago and have had trouble since then. I believe it to be coincidence though as I have already changed the fuel filter. These are the codes as of today. Please help!!!



VAG-COM Version: Release 311.2-N


Chassis Type: 1J - VW G/J/B Mk4
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,17,19,22,35,46,56

Address 01 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 06A 906 032 SL 
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0030
Coding: 07550
Shop #: WSC 00066
3VWSE69M15M019886 VWZ7Z0D0134448
4 Faults Found:
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-00 - -
16688 - Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0304 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low
P0102 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16685 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0301 - 35-00 - -
Readiness: 0110 1101

Address 02 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 09A 927 750 BD 
Component: AG5 Getriebe 09A 0237 
1 Fault Found:
01166 - Engine Torque Signal
03-10 - No Signal - Intermittent

Address 03 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 1C0 907 379 M 
Component: ESP FRONT MK60 0102
Coding: 0019970
Shop #: WSC 00028
1 Fault Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module
013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent

Address 15 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 1C0 909 605 F 
Component: 04 AIRBAG VW61 0202 0003
Coding: 12340
Shop #: WSC 00066
1 Fault Found:
01218 - Side Airbag Igniter: Passenger Side (N200)
32-00 - Resistance too High

Address 17 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 1J5 920 926 H 
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V56
Coding: 15230
Shop #: WSC 00000
3VWSE69M15M019886 VWZ7Z0D0134448
1 Fault Found:
01304 - Radio
49-00 - No Communications

Address 19 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 6N0 909 901 
Component: Gateway KCAN 0001
Coding: 00006
Shop #: WSC 00028
1 Fault Found:
01304 - Radio
49-00 - No Communications

Address 46 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 1C0 959 799 C 
Component: 1H Komfortgerát HLO 0004
Coding: 00258
Shop #: WSC 00028
No fault code found.

End -------------------------------------------------------





I have checked for water in the harness of the ECM with no sign of it. I pulled the coil packs and plugs and there was oil on the tops of the plugs and the coil packs. Not sure, but dont think it is supposed to be getting oil on the tops of the plugs.(Maybe the valve cover gasket?) Other than the obvious in the scan, the car starts and runs on what seems to be three cylinders. I have replaced the coil packs about 6 months ago and replaced the o2 sensor last week. When I clear the codes they come right back. Help!


----------



## PDnAZ (Jul 7, 2010)

*AC clutch not engaging*

Hi all, I’m new here so don’t all gang up at once. I have searched around, but have not found an answer. Here is my dilemma: 1996 Jetta 2.0 AC clutch does not engage. If I jump it to the battery, it works. I did this to get the charge up in case it was due to pressure switch. The Manual says there is a 30 amp AC fuse located above the relays under the dash. I could not find one. After calling dealer, I did find AC relay. It looks new inside, no burns on circuit board but I am not sure how to test it. I would replace it if I new this would solve the problem, but I don’t want to start replacing good parts when the answer is somewhere else. I also saw somewhere that there is a separate relay for the AC clutch. Does anyone know which relay this might be? Maybe a number on the back, or a part #. And where is the pressure switch located? I did find some help on another thread http://tinyurl.com/2dwqx4f But it did not say where the pressure switch is. I did find a 30 amp fuse box with a clear plastic cover under the hood left side ahead of the brake reservoir. Whats that for? Thanks.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

papasgot14u said:


> I bought gas at Wal-Mart 10 days ago and have had trouble since then. I believe it to be coincidence though as I have already changed the fuel filter. These are the codes as of today. Please help!!!
> 
> 
> 
> ...



What car is this even for? This looks like codes pulled on something other than a Corrado.




PDnAZ said:


> Hi all, I’m new here so don’t all gang up at once. I have searched around, but have not found an answer. Here is my dilemma: 1996 Jetta 2.0 AC clutch does not engage. If I jump it to the battery, it works. I did this to get the charge up in case it was due to pressure switch. The Manual says there is a 30 amp AC fuse located above the relays under the dash. I could not find one. After calling dealer, I did find AC relay. It looks new inside, no burns on circuit board but I am not sure how to test it. I would replace it if I new this would solve the problem, but I don’t want to start replacing good parts when the answer is somewhere else. I also saw somewhere that there is a separate relay for the AC clutch. Does anyone know which relay this might be? Maybe a number on the back, or a part #. And where is the pressure switch located? I did find some help on another thread http://tinyurl.com/2dwqx4f But it did not say where the pressure switch is. I did find a 30 amp fuse box with a clear plastic cover under the hood left side ahead of the brake reservoir. Whats that for? Thanks.


You know this is for CORRADO's right? This isn't a generic ask the experts thread :banghead:


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

PDnAZ said:


> Hi all, I’m new here so don’t all gang up at once. I have searched around, but have not found an answer. Here is my dilemma: 1996 Jetta 2.0 AC clutch does not engage. If I jump it to the battery, it works. I did this to get the charge up in case it was due to pressure switch. The Manual says there is a 30 amp AC fuse located above the relays under the dash. I could not find one. After calling dealer, I did find AC relay. It looks new inside, no burns on circuit board but I am not sure how to test it. I would replace it if I new this would solve the problem, but I don’t want to start replacing good parts when the answer is somewhere else. I also saw somewhere that there is a separate relay for the AC clutch. Does anyone know which relay this might be? Maybe a number on the back, or a part #. And where is the pressure switch located? I did find some help on another thread http://tinyurl.com/2dwqx4f But it did not say where the pressure switch is. I did find a 30 amp fuse box with a clear plastic cover under the hood left side ahead of the brake reservoir. Whats that for? Thanks.



This is the Corrado forum. try here... http://forums.vwvortex.com/forumdisplay.php?3-Golf-III-amp-Jetta-III


----------



## The_green_vr6 (Jun 9, 2009)

*pobms with tnsioneeeee on 94 slc raddo*

im working on a buddies car and this POS keeps destroying the tensioner...im on the third one now and it keeps tension utill you run it for about 5min then loses tension.... so i took it out puled it apart and the seal had a nasty hole ripped in it...so did the other two....i cant tell why this keeps happening


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

um....wtf.....

What tensioner and what seal MIGHT help us help you.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> um....wtf.....
> 
> What tensioner and what seal MIGHT help us help you.


what engine also


----------



## VR6Ewing (Feb 10, 2010)

had a little dilema last night. the top radiator piece thats like a 90* angle from the radiator to the hose cracked right now its being held on by zip ties and hopes and dreams. so i was wondering what this part is actually called? the guys at advanced told me they thought it was my tstat housing but im not quite sure that they are right


----------



## VR6Ewing (Feb 10, 2010)

VR6Ewing said:


> had a little dilema last night. the top radiator piece thats like a 90* angle from the radiator to the hose cracked right now its being held on by zip ties and hopes and dreams. so i was wondering what this part is actually called? the guys at advanced told me they thought it was my tstat housing but im not quite sure that they are right


picture just in case: http://www.notaracer.co.uk/golf/update/latest/IMAG1385.JPG


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

VR6Ewing said:


> had a little dilema last night. the top radiator piece thats like a 90* angle from the radiator to the hose cracked right now its being held on by zip ties and hopes and dreams. so i was wondering what this part is actually called? the guys at advanced told me they thought it was my tstat housing but im not quite sure that they are right


Rad neck, order an aluminum one from gruven parts, or you will have the same issue later down the road, it's worth the extra $30 or so :thumbup:


----------



## VR6Ewing (Feb 10, 2010)

is the rad neck really worth the $100?


----------



## paulytits (Jun 13, 2007)

how easy is it to take out my sunroof?(stock no glass) i know i asked about how get rid of the sticky adhesive but im not having any of that.. it looks like ass regardless and im just gonna have it redone sometime. any of you fellow locals know of any good upholstery places and prices? im in greenwood lake NY :thumbup:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

VR6Ewing said:


> is the rad neck really worth the $100?


 Yes. 



paulytits said:


> how easy is it to take out my sunroof?(stock no glass) i know i asked about how get rid of the sticky adhesive but im not having any of that.. it looks like ass regardless and im just gonna have it redone sometime. any of you fellow locals know of any good upholstery places and prices? im in greenwood lake NY :thumbup:


Headliner, all your pillar covers gotta come out. Then it's just 10mm bolts and the motor harness plug.


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

paulytits said:


> how easy is it to take out my sunroof?(stock no glass) i know i asked about how get rid of the sticky adhesive but im not having any of that.. it looks like ass regardless and im just gonna have it redone sometime. any of you fellow locals know of any good upholstery places and prices? im in greenwood lake NY :thumbup:


Just took mine out today. Like it was said before remove all the pillar trims and the headliner. There are 8 or 10 10mm bolts. Be careful that thing is pretty heavy an extra set of hands is nice but you can also use your head to balance the roof while you pivot it to get it out.


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

ok turbo related but it is in a rado and you guys are experts right? so 91 corrado pg motor (g60t) with a t3 super 60 1500 miles on it. slight amount of oil in the boost pipe is this normal?


----------



## specvee (Feb 23, 2007)

soooo, ****!

I was just putting my sub frame back into place and i seem to have cross threaded the bolt hole for the drivers side middle bolt (the one that goes through the lower control arm bushing)...

Is something like this going to be my best bet? or is there something less destructive that i should be trying first?

Never stripped a hole before, kinda pissed. I turned it in about halfway with my fingers, then used a wrench when it gave me some resistance. I gave it a good three turns before realizing that i ****ed it up.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

specvee said:


> soooo, ****!
> 
> I was just putting my sub frame back into place and i seem to have cross threaded the bolt hole for the drivers side middle bolt (the one that goes through the lower control arm bushing)...
> 
> ...


I say try the tap :thumbup:


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

VR6Ewing said:


> is the rad neck really worth the $100?


It's def a nice piece from a company that makes very good parts, but if you're on a budget, contact me and we can get you the OEM neck *and* o-ring for $21 (plus a few bucks for shipping).

on a side note: "guys at advance" and corrados don't mix


----------



## CorradoMan1 (Dec 19, 2009)

I have a question... I was working on my car, and decided to do the MFA boost gauge, since i have not put one in the car yet... And the example that i was given shows numbers like 

EURO Hg(#'s of boost/vacuum)

200 - 23.7
400 - 17.8
600 - 11.9
800 - 5.9
1000 0 (Atmospheric pressure, charger is bypassed?)
1200 2.9 psi (You have a major boost leak)
1400 5.8 psi (Your charger is in very poor condition)
1600 8.7 psi (Your charger would benefit from new apex strips)
1800 11.6 psi (Good for stock pulley, needs new apex strips if 68mm pulley)
2000 14.5 psi (Good for 68mm pulley on stock charger)
2200 17.4 psi (Good for 68mm pulley on heavily ported charger)

got that from this http://www.matey-matey.com/g60-guide.shtml

So now my question... My car only shows numbers like 
40 idle, 120 slight acceleration, 200 close to red line

I have driven the car without boost before, so i know the charger is working... do you think that my MFA only displays 3 of the 4 digits for some reason? Does any body else's do this?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

nu2dubbing said:


> ok turbo related but it is in a rado and you guys are experts right? so 91 corrado pg motor (g60t) with a t3 super 60 1500 miles on it. slight amount of oil in the boost pipe is this normal?


check the turbo inlet and see if it is there too.

Could just be oil in the IC from years of gladder.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

CorradoMan1 said:


> I have a question... I was working on my car, and decided to do the MFA boost gauge, since i have not put one in the car yet... And the example that i was given shows numbers like
> 
> EURO Hg(#'s of boost/vacuum)
> 
> ...


I have found my MFA to be inaccurate as well, there's a way to verify this in the bentley, you should be reading atmospheric pressure with the car off and no residual vaccum (like you didn't just shut your car off) When it starts, you should be reading vacuum and upon acceleration high rev wide open throttle to get actual boost readings, I say, go pick up a cheap boost gauge for verification. I have even switched out the vacuum sensor on the back of the cluster with no luck, may be an imbedded cluster issue, which again the bentley depicts how to diagnose this issue.


----------



## pug_nasty (Jun 17, 2009)

Im having a weird problem.
I left the lights on one night and it drained the battery. I jump it the next day and everything is fine, then the next day its dead again. I put a quick disconnect on so i can just unhook it when I park to make sure a gremlin wasnt draining it and I noticed the positive battery connector was effed...so i thought maybe changing it would be the end of it. I took the battery back to exchange it and they said it was 100% healthy.
It was fine for a day then dead AGAIN...its holding a charge and I know the alt isnt bad so this is where Im confused. 
Even tho its fully charged it wont start...but if I jump it, it starts.
Im not sure whats going on so I leave it up to the masters.
thx guys


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

Everything is new including fmic there is a light coating on the inlet but nothing I can see


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

pug_nasty said:


> Im having a weird problem.
> I left the lights on one night and it drained the battery. I jump it the next day and everything is fine, then the next day its dead again. I put a quick disconnect on so i can just unhook it when I park to make sure a gremlin wasnt draining it and I noticed the positive battery connector was effed...so i thought maybe changing it would be the end of it. I took the battery back to exchange it and they said it was 100% healthy.
> It was fine for a day then dead AGAIN...its holding a charge and I know the alt isnt bad so this is where Im confused.
> Even tho its fully charged it wont start...but if I jump it, it starts.
> ...


someone else was having the same type of issue (I believe on page 68 of this thread) and noobercorn suggested, among other things:

"diagnosing battery drain problems is best done with a voltmeter on the battery, watch closely as fuses are pulled one by one, any deviation in voltage reading when a fuse is puled will indicate which circuit is causing the drain."

def a good place to start...


----------



## pug_nasty (Jun 17, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> someone else was having the same type of issue (I believe on page 68 of this thread) and noobercorn suggested, among other things:
> 
> "diagnosing battery drain problems is best done with a voltmeter on the battery, watch closely as fuses are pulled one by one, any deviation in voltage reading when a fuse is puled will indicate which circuit is causing the drain."
> 
> def a good place to start...


Ill give that a try thx
Im confused about this tho bcuz it doesnt seem to be a drainage problem. When i test the voltage it reads 12 when the car is off...but wont start without a jump. Ill still test it for drainage tho.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

pug_nasty said:


> Ill give that a try thx


Ya, look for a link Burninator posted as well...:thumbup:


----------



## pug_nasty (Jun 17, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Ya, look for a link Burninator posted as well...:thumbup:


Will do:thumbup:


----------



## VR6 EDM (May 10, 2010)

So im gonna need this done to my cover when were at your shop, you prob dont have a tapper so you know any places close by ft. collins???


----------



## lx PaRiSh xl (Mar 24, 2010)

Okay, here it goes!
I have a '92 Mk2 GTI 8v and as far as I know, it has no mods done to it besides the coilovers.

My question is this:
When I start up the car, it makes a really peculiar sound and sometimes takes a bit before firing up. I'm preeetty sure it's the starter, but I'm not positive. So, if I was to shop around, on average what would be the price for a new starter and how hard would it be to replace it myself. As of right now, I have barely ANY mechanical experience on VWs, so yeah. Thanks guys


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

lx PaRiSh xl said:


> Okay, here it goes!
> I have a '92 Mk2 GTI 8v and as far as I know, it has no mods done to it besides the coilovers.
> 
> My question is this:
> When I start up the car, it makes a really peculiar sound and sometimes takes a bit before firing up. I'm preeetty sure it's the starter, but I'm not positive. So, if I was to shop around, on average what would be the price for a new starter and how hard would it be to replace it myself. As of right now, I have barely ANY mechanical experience on VWs, so yeah. Thanks guys


Wrong forum...


----------



## eurotrashmax (May 9, 2006)

I got one for you all. PO changed out the 92 gauge faces for 93+ faces and needles. As the result of that, the car's speed was off by +10mph. Just earlier i tried to fix the problem by rotating the needle clockwise and pulling it over the post. I got this advice from a thread i found on here a few years ago, i just never tried it cause i was scared to snap the needle. Well i did it, but then the needle didn't move at all when i drove it. So i moved it back, but now its -10mph off. Anything one have any experience, suggestions in this or know of the thread i'm talking about? I tried searching for it but i'm sure its long lost during the shuffle. I'll keep searching for the thread in the mean time.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

nu2dubbing said:


> Everything is new including fmic there is a light coating on the inlet but nothing I can see


ebay turbo?



pug_nasty said:


> Ill give that a try thx
> Im confused about this tho bcuz it doesnt seem to be a drainage problem. When i test the voltage it reads 12 when the car is off...but wont start without a jump. Ill still test it for drainage tho.


Dealing with this issue on the GF's seabring the last few weeks. Try cleaning up all the grounds etc, clean up where the positive wire goes on the alternator and starter and use dieletric grease when you put it all back together.



VR6 EDM said:


> So im gonna need this done to my cover when were at your shop, you prob dont have a tapper so you know any places close by ft. collins???


Machine shops... might have to find a tool place and buy one but that is expensive... Is your car a dizzy car? I might have a spare upper cover that i can check if it is good


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

turbonetics t3 super 60


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

nu2dubbing said:


> turbonetics t3 super 60


are you using a restrictor in the oil feed?

The only thing I can think of is if there is too much oil pressure to the turbo then it would blow through the seals.


----------



## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

VR6 EDM said:


> So im gonna need this done to my cover when were at your shop, you prob dont have a tapper so you know any places close by ft. collins???


You can use the new tensioner to drive new threads into the cover. I don't like the idea but it saves you the purchase of a tap that you will use only once.


----------



## VR6 EDM (May 10, 2010)

You know if the cover is aluminum? If the bolt is harder metal than the cover then ill do that, but im not a fan of stripping $50 dollar bolts. I do have a dremel?? I could just sand that part out like I did with the front motor mount! lol


----------



## lx PaRiSh xl (Mar 24, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Wrong forum...


Hah! Wow...just noticed that it was in the Corrado forum. My bad


----------



## VR6Ewing (Feb 10, 2010)

any quicker/right way to remove the radiator on a VR6? was looking at it and it appears to be a very long headache process. just wondering if there were any right ways to do it? thanks


----------



## burstxbloom95 (Mar 24, 2010)

*What's up guys? I have a new question!*

Does anyone know of a header that will pass smog in nevada.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

VR6Ewing said:


> any quicker/right way to remove the radiator on a VR6? was looking at it and it appears to be a very long headache process. just wondering if there were any right ways to do it? thanks


Would take about an hour to get it out... Remove bumper, headlights and rad support


----------



## The_green_vr6 (Jun 9, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> um....wtf.....
> 
> What tensioner and what seal MIGHT help us help you.



its a 94 slc raddo a vr6 of course the upper chain tensioner bolt...i have been fighting this thing every step of the way....:banghead:...i belive it has high oil pressure but would any one know why...


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

burstxbloom95 said:


> Does anyone know of a header that will pass smog in nevada.


Yeah...OEM. And we dont need to know what motor you have because most aftermaret headers are not SMOG legal. 




The_green_vr6 said:


> im working on a buddies car and this POS keeps destroying the tensioner...im on the third one now and it keeps tension utill you run it for about 5min then loses tension.... so i took it out puled it apart and the seal had a nasty hole ripped in it...so did the other two....i cant tell why this keeps happening





The_green_vr6 said:


> its a 94 slc raddo a vr6 of course the upper chain tensioner bolt...i have been fighting this thing every step of the way....:banghead:...i belive it has high oil pressure but would any one know why...


I dont seehow you can destroy an upper tensioner unless something else is very wrong. Get a new seal, and are you usin the correct NEW Tensioner bolt for the chain set up? 

Are you priming the oil system? after putting the motor back together? 

and only 1 "D" in RADO :banghead:


----------



## The_green_vr6 (Jun 9, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Yeah...OEM. And we dont need to know what motor you have because most aftermaret headers are not SMOG legal.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


yes its the proper tensioner bolt...yes im priming the system...and as far as somthing else wroung there has to be but i can not figure out what....this is not my first vr job but for some reason the seal keeps getting this nice perfect circle whole in it every time...any more info would be great


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

Does the voltage regulator from the G60 alternator work in an ABF alternator? I think this might solve my battery light problem with my ABF set-up. 

The battery light is on when the blue wire is attached but the light goes off when the wire is disconnected. I checked for any shorts but I could not find any. I will take the alternator to Advance and have them test it sometime this week.


----------



## wed3k (Feb 22, 2010)

pretty easy to do a slim line fan setup in a g60? trying to get the engine to run cooler.


----------



## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

*ETKA updates anyone?*

Sorry, kinda off topic, sorta. But anyone can help out Niki and share some good info on the ETKA updates please? Appreciated!

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4079036-Official-Beltway-Euro-Go-To-Gethers-GTG/page105


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

NYCGTM said:


> Sorry, kinda off topic, sorta. But anyone can help out Niki and share some good info on the ETKA updates please? Appreciated!
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4079036-Official-Beltway-Euro-Go-To-Gethers-GTG/page105


I don't have those updates sitting around.... Has she checked torrents yet?


----------



## aerodynamic1 (Jul 14, 2010)

*Ac compressor*

Would the ac compressor from a 2000 jetta fit my vr6 corrado 93?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

aerodynamic1 said:


> Would the ac compressor from a 2000 jetta fit my vr6 corrado 93?


Not an exact replacement, no. Electrical connection looks different, cant tell what else. I can't tell from the pics if the mounting ears are in the same location either. 

Good news is that the same compressor was used in the 94-99 Jetta 2.8, 95-98 GTI VR6, 93-97 Passat GLX, 93-95 Corrado so that may help you find one that you can use with no modification.


----------



## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

TheBurninator said:


> I don't have those updates sitting around.... Has she checked torrents yet?


Didn't ask but will. Thankssssson


----------



## itej (Jan 29, 2008)

*93 slc*

i'm looking at buying a 1993 slc and the PO claims the motor is rebuilt and has Schrick cams, but also has low compression in two cylinders... he was talking something like 180psi in 4, and maybe 110 or 115psi in the other two. is that enough reason to forget about the car, or what might i be looking at for repairs? i searched around a bit and found it could be rings, or maybe timing or gaskets. don't suppose there's a way to figure it out without tearing the entire thing apart, eh?

thanks! :beer:


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

itej said:


> i'm looking at buying a 1993 slc and the PO claims the motor is rebuilt and has Schrick cams, but also has low compression in two cylinders... he was talking something like 180psi in 4, and maybe 110 or 115psi in the other two. is that enough reason to forget about the car, or what might i be looking at for repairs? i searched around a bit and found it could be rings, or maybe timing or gaskets. don't suppose there's a way to figure it out without tearing the entire thing apart, eh?
> 
> thanks! :beer:


Does he have receipts for the work? 

It sounds very very sketchy. :thumbdown:


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

turtledub said:


> Does the voltage regulator from the G60 alternator work in an ABF alternator? I think this might solve my battery light problem with my ABF set-up.
> 
> The battery light is on when the blue wire is attached but the light goes off when the wire is disconnected. I checked for any shorts but I could not find any. I will take the alternator to Advance and have them test it sometime this week.


Any idea about the voltage regulators?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

itej said:


> i'm looking at buying a 1993 slc and the PO claims the motor is rebuilt and has Schrick cams, but also has low compression in two cylinders... he was talking something like 180psi in 4, and maybe 110 or 115psi in the other two. is that enough reason to forget about the car, or what might i be looking at for repairs? i searched around a bit and found it could be rings, or maybe timing or gaskets. don't suppose there's a way to figure it out without tearing the entire thing apart, eh?
> 
> thanks! :beer:


not without pulling the head.

Could be a bent valve too.


----------



## itej (Jan 29, 2008)

chrisd1891 said:


> Does he have receipts for the work?
> 
> It sounds very very sketchy. :thumbdown:


no records :banghead: unfortunately i was thinking the same thing... won't have a chance to check it out until tomorrow and will be 1000mi from my mechanic. car is dirt cheap and he says it pulls really strong and all that, but i don't think i want to deal w/ an engine rebuild esp since i'll have to drive it from CO back to OR.



TheBurninator said:


> not without pulling the head.
> 
> Could be a bent valve too.


that's what i figured. sounds like no matter what i'm looking at a rebuild, right?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

itej said:


> no records :banghead: unfortunately i was thinking the same thing... won't have a chance to check it out until tomorrow and will be 1000mi from my mechanic. car is dirt cheap and he says it pulls really strong and all that, but i don't think i want to deal w/ an engine rebuild esp since i'll have to drive it from CO back to OR.


Where is it at in CO?

If it is close to me I can go test drive it for you.


----------



## paulytits (Jun 13, 2007)

my temp light started blinking today, coolant level is good to go. bad sensor?? could just be playing games with me..

car is a 93 dizzy


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

paulytits said:


> my temp light started blinking today, coolant level is good to go. bad sensor?? could just be playing games with me..
> 
> car is a 93 dizzy


check the connector on the bottle first. take a paper clip and connect the two pins together and see if it goes away. If it does the level sensor is bad and you need to replace the whole bottle.


----------



## ibedrooms (Jun 3, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> check the connector on the bottle first. take a paper clip and connect the two pins together and see if it goes away. If it does the level sensor is bad and you need to replace the whole bottle.


x2


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> check the connector on the bottle first. take a paper clip and connect the two pins together and see if it goes away. If it does the level sensor is bad and you need to replace the whole bottle.


...Also check the cap of the coolant bottle (I think)


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Anyone ever replace the rear seat pull? mine broke today :banghead:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Ouch....you have to pull apart the seat to get to the mechanisims. 
Know of any upholstry shops local to you who can open up the leather and not tear it?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Ouch....you have to pull apart the seat to get to the mechanisims.
> Know of any upholstry shops local to you who can open up the leather and not tear it?


fekak, that's what I was afraid of, looked at it briefly and didn't see any access :banghead:

I don't know any upholsterers I trust...


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## 88Redroc (Jun 16, 2008)

90 G60. Converting to R134a from R12. I have flushed the lines with rubbing alcohol, and blown them dry, replaced seals and installed a new receiver/dryer. My question is, what brand/viscosity oil do I need to use? 

Bentley has a variety of brands listed most are rated as 100 (which I assume is viscosity?) but when I went to my local auto parts stores and called around town almost everyone only seems to carry PAG oil. So to be sure what they recommend I visited the PAG website. They have two types of oil listed for Sanden compressors either 100 or 46... Since the model decal is long since gone, I don't know for sure which to use. 

Also, do I just add the oil directly to the A/C compressor through the drain hole now? Or do I let the A/C guy do it while he vacuums/charges the system up? Keep in mind all the oil is out of the compressor and I worry about starting it up essentially dry while it charges.

I am a real novice at A/C systems and I don't wanna screw up! I need expert assistance!


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

88Redroc said:


> Do I let the A/C guy do it while he vacuums/charges the system up? Keep in mind all the oil is out of the compressor and I worry about starting it up essentially dry while it charges.
> 
> I am a real novice at A/C systems and I don't wanna screw up! I need expert assistance!


Let them do it, and well, sorry about that first second without pag oil. Shouldn't destroy the compressor but yes, vac first, fill with pag oil (the same way you add refrigerant), then add refrigerant if doing it yourself. 
If not let them know you are empty when you take it in for vac/fill.


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## 88Redroc (Jun 16, 2008)

Thanks DUB, I'll just tighten everything up and let the A/C techs work their magic. Any idea as to the viscosity of the oil? 100 or 46?


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## allenreyjr917 (Jul 10, 2010)

*fuel delivery*

92 slc vr6 no mods

problem - sometimes while driving the car just looses power and has a hard time running then shut off a few seconds later. when you try to restart, it trys to start but doesnt. i disconected the gas line going into the intake and it had alot of air in it so i turned the engine over until gas came out then reconected and it started up and ran just fine. Sometimes i have to go under the right rear of the car and hit the gas tank and then it picks up just fine too. Is it possible that my fuel pump has a short or is it just time to replace it?


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## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

allenreyjr917 said:


> 92 slc vr6 no mods
> 
> problem - sometimes while driving the car just looses power and has a hard time running then shut off a few seconds later. when you try to restart, it trys to start but doesnt. i disconected the gas line going into the intake and it had alot of air in it so i turned the engine over until gas came out then reconected and it started up and ran just fine. Sometimes i have to go under the right rear of the car and hit the gas tank and then it picks up just fine too. Is it possible that my fuel pump has a short or is it just time to replace it?


Check the wires to the fuel pump with a volt meter, but chances are it's time to replace the pump. 


I have a question. Why the **** would someone say a G60 radiator support works on a VR6...have they tried it? i just did, and they aren't even close. The G60 one hits the condenser on a VR6 car, maybe a VR6 one works for a G60, but a G60 one does not by a long shot work for an SLC. I just had to vent....spent a while painting my new radiator support only to find that the piece that goes down next to the power steering line is much too fat to work.


----------



## pmk3j (Feb 7, 2010)

*vr6 lip*

im lost on this site and i just joined and i want to find a vr6 lip for my mk3 jetta 96. helppp me please


----------



## 98 swap (Jan 16, 2010)

*injector problems*

I have a 2002 vr6 and I just put it in my 1998 beetle. I have everything working but I am not getting fuel through my injectors and can not figure it out. Does anyone know what the problem could be.:banghead:


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## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

Just got my old alternator out & installed a Gruven pulley onto a new belt tensioner. I figured it would go on with the name facing out but when I torque it this way it wont spin at all. Turned it around & tightened it & it spins a little better. Is it supposed to face in & does it not spin as freely because it needs to break in still?

_________________________________________


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

pmk3j said:


> im lost on this site and i just joined and i want to find a vr6 lip for my mk3 jetta 96. helppp me please






98 swap said:


> I have a 2002 vr6 and I just put it in my 1998 beetle. I have everything working but I am not getting fuel through my injectors and can not figure it out. Does anyone know what the problem could be.:banghead:


Wrong forum :screwy:



PrjktRado1 said:


> Just got my old alternator out & installed a Gruven pulley onto a new belt tensioner. I figured it would go on with the name facing out but when I torque it this way it wont spin at all. Turned it around & tightened it & it spins a little better. Is it supposed to face in & does it not spin as freely because it needs to break in still?
> 
> _________________________________________


Let me know what you find out, cause I was about to order those pullies...


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

chrisd1891 said:


> Check the wires to the fuel pump with a volt meter, but chances are it's time to replace the pump.
> 
> 
> I have a question. Why the **** would someone say a G60 radiator support works on a VR6...have they tried it? i just did, and they aren't even close. The G60 one hits the condenser on a VR6 car, maybe a VR6 one works for a G60, but a G60 one does not by a long shot work for an SLC. I just had to vent....spent a while painting my new radiator support only to find that the piece that goes down next to the power steering line is much too fat to work.


They do work Chris.

I have used them a few times before in swap cars. You need to slightly trim the lower portion of the rad support.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Also what is up with people with mk3/4's asking questions in the corrado forum? They can't read what forum this is?:banghead:


----------



## InstantKarma (Jan 5, 2005)

hey guys... I need help with some wiring... I have a g60 with a completely tucked harness and i cant seem to remember where the wires that go to the coil are located. I have one green wire that I know goes to the coil but I cant find any others. The green wire comes form the ECU harness. not sure what parts of the harness the other wires are from.

help plz


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## nomad1721 (Apr 4, 2005)

Hey experts,

I've got two questions for y'all.

1) What is the thread size of the oil filter nipple? I'm putting in a sandwich plate for an oil cooler, and I just want to verify the size. I know I've seen it on here before, but I'm coming up empty handed lately.

2 ) Does anyone know the CFM or lbs/min rating for the G-lader? I've already posted in the G60 forum, but I thought I'd check this one as well. I'm just curious, and thought it would be a good bit of info to know. If anyone knows, for either a stock or modded charger, let me know. 

Thanks all!



Josh


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

InstantKarma said:


> hey guys... I need help with some wiring... I have a g60 with a completely tucked harness and i cant seem to remember where the wires that go to the coil are located. I have one green wire that I know goes to the coil but I cant find any others. The green wire comes form the ECU harness. not sure what parts of the harness the other wires are from.
> 
> help plz


 The other one is black  I don't recall where it comes from tho...


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## InstantKarma (Jan 5, 2005)

i found them eventually. plug G2 in the relay panel. pins 4 and 12


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## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Wrong forum :screwy:
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know what you find out, cause I was about to order those pullies...


 The only one I have so far is the Tens. pulley which I've heard a lot of positive things about. Haven't had time to mess with it since but will be calling gruven about the install. :thumbup: 

_________________________________________________


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

PrjktRado1 said:


> The only one I have so far is the Tens. pulley which I've heard a lot of positive things about. Haven't had time to mess with it since but will be calling gruven about the install. :thumbup:


 I haven't heard much about them, but please keep me informed :thumbup:


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## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

88Redroc said:


> Thanks DUB, I'll just tighten everything up and let the A/C techs work their magic. Any idea as to the viscosity of the oil? 100 or 46?


 Use PAG 100 and if your system is completely free of oil fill 4.6 oz into the compressor. Have it vacuumed and then charged.


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## VeedubR6 (Nov 12, 2008)

question for any of you that have rebuilt your VR's: 
the machine shop is asking me if i want them to use a deck plate for when they deck the block to emulate what will happen when the head is torqued on there. the guy isn't sure if it's necessary for the VR or not, so i thought i would check with das experts on here. any help is appreciated :thumbup:


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

VeedubR6 said:


> question for any of you that have rebuilt your VR's:
> the machine shop is asking me if i want them to use a deck plate for when they deck the block to emulate what will happen when the head is torqued on there. the guy isn't sure if it's necessary for the VR or not, so i thought i would check with das experts on here. any help is appreciated :thumbup:


 My block was decked to be level and remove some pitting and blemishes ect. But the block is cast iron?!?!?!? Aluminum blocks maybe have that much distortion when torqued? :sly:

If hes asking because it costs extra, then I would say no.


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## VeedubR6 (Nov 12, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> My block was decked to be level and remove some pitting and blemishes ect. But the block is cast iron?!?!?!? Aluminum blocks maybe have that much distortion when torqued? :sly:
> 
> If hes asking because it costs extra, then I would say no.


 he didn't say anything about costing extra, he was just wondering if it was something that needed to be done on these motors (he's never done a VR6 before, and unfortunately the number of machine shops in my area is limited). i told him it was a cast iron block and that it shouldn't be needed, but i just wanted to be sure. thanks for the response!


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## Curt_pnw (Nov 27, 2005)

Any ideas as to what this plug goes to? It had the VAG symbol on the plug, forgot to write down the part number. I found it in the dash, behind the heater controls/radio insert. 









:thumbup:


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## InstantKarma (Jan 5, 2005)

looks like maybe one of the plugs that goes to one of the controls behind the steering wheel for turn/wiper


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## allenreyjr917 (Jul 10, 2010)

chrisd1891 said:


> Check the wires to the fuel pump with a volt meter, but chances are it's time to replace the pump.
> 
> 
> I have a question. Why the **** would someone say a G60 radiator support works on a VR6...have they tried it? i just did, and they aren't even close. The G60 one hits the condenser on a VR6 car, maybe a VR6 one works for a G60, but a G60 one does not by a long shot work for an SLC. I just had to vent....spent a while painting my new radiator support only to find that the piece that goes down next to the power steering line is much too fat to work.


 in the future im planning on supercharger/turbo so should i just go ahead and buy a fuel pump that will support that kind of hp or would a performance fuel pump be too much for the stock engine?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Curt_pnw said:


> Any ideas as to what this plug goes to? It had the VAG symbol on the plug, forgot to write down the part number. I found it in the dash, behind the heater controls/radio insert.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Are all the lights working? looks like the plug to the lower gauges 



allenreyjr917 said:


> in the future im planning on supercharger/turbo so should i just go ahead and buy a fuel pump that will support that kind of hp or would a performance fuel pump be too much for the stock engine?


 regardless of what you do later, you have a stock car now. You will need a OEM 4bar pump, add the inline pump when you finally add the boost. :thumbup: VDO is the replacement for the OE Pierburg pump, so you will need a VDO sender too.


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## boosted8vw (Jul 21, 2010)

*g60 swap into mkII gti*

OK so I have a wrecked 90 corrado g60 and a running 90 gti 1.8 8v. Im putting the g60 motor and computer system in the gti. Really my only questions are will the g60 engine harness plug and play into the gti harness? What is best to use for intercooler system? G60 piping and cooler? Or front mount cooler and make my piping? Do both trannys have the same spline count on the main shaft? If any one could give me any insight that would much appreciated.......and im a shop tech. This is my 1st vw swap. But not my 1st in general.


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

turtledub said:


> Does the voltage regulator from the G60 alternator work in an ABF alternator? I think this might solve my battery light problem with my ABF set-up.
> 
> The battery light is on when the blue wire is attached but the light goes off when the wire is disconnected. I checked for any shorts but I could not find any. I will take the alternator to Advance and have them test it sometime this week.


 Any help on this?


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Ok, I have a question... 

I have an 2.0 16V 9A *Corrado* cluster (_it's like the 93+ one but for 4cyl, option that we had here in Europe - I guess it's something like the B3 2.0 16V Passat you guys had_) I want to put into my '90 G60 Corrado which has the analog cable-driven cluster. 

I know I have to add the speed sensor (VSS), but my question is if the cluster harness is different? If so, can I use a VR6 one or do I have to find one from an 2.0 16V Corrado? 

I have searched every thread here and as well as on other forums without a definitive answer? 

Sorry if my question is "noobish"


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

turtledub said:


> Any help on this?


 Experiment on your own, that is all I can say. Try it, if it doesnt work, find another alternative. 



boosted8vw said:


> OK so I have a wrecked 90 corrado g60 and a running 90 gti 1.8 8v. Im putting the g60 motor and computer system in the gti. Really my only questions are will the g60 engine harness plug and play into the gti harness? What is best to use for intercooler system? G60 piping and cooler? Or front mount cooler and make my piping? Do both trannys have the same spline count on the main shaft? If any one could give me any insight that would much appreciated.......and im a shop tech. This is my 1st vw swap. But not my 1st in general.


 Use everything from the Corrado. CE2 wiring, should plug in for the most part. 



RedYellowWhite said:


> Ok, I have a question...
> 
> I have an 2.0 16V 9A *Corrado* cluster (_it's like the 93+ one but for 4cyl, option that we had here in Europe - I guess it's something like the B3 2.0 16V Passat you guys had_) I want to put into my '90 G60 Corrado which has the analog cable-driven cluster.
> 
> ...


 16v cluster, the 4 cyl and 6cyl have a different tach pulse, and because of the digital odometer you will need it. :thumbup:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Ok, I have a question...
> 
> I have an 2.0 16V 9A *Corrado* cluster (_it's like the 93+ one but for 4cyl, option that we had here in Europe - I guess it's something like the B3 2.0 16V Passat you guys had_) I want to put into my '90 G60 Corrado which has the analog cable-driven cluster.
> 
> ...


 I'd say check out the Bentley for wiring schematics and possibly here http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html 

My "guess" would be that you would need the harness matching the cluster, not per car and you may just luck out with a VR, being all you need is the wiring and not the actual pulse, but dunno if it is different also for the euro car... So I am of no "real" assistance  

You can however put a VR in a G60, just need a rather expensive converter box for the tach to work properly... Good luck :thumbup: 

*If there is a will, THERE IS A WAY!!!* :thumbup:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Sorry Nick, I meant to say yes, you will need the cluster harness to make the digital odo work in a car that originally had the mechanical cluster.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> Sorry Nick, I meant to say yes, you will need the cluster harness to make the digital odo work in a car that originally had the mechanical cluster.


 Yeah, I know this...but do I need the 16V harness (since I'm putting a 16V cluster) or will a VR6 one do? I did check my Bentley but I don't understand wiring diagrams... 

I have found the harnesses, I just want to make sure I buy the correct one. 

Also, will a VSS from an MK3 VR work or do I need Corrado specific? 

Thanks Zak and Chad :thumbup:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Yeah, I know this...but do I need the 16V harness (since I'm putting a 16V cluster) or will a VR6 one do? I did check my Bentley but I don't understand wiring diagrams...
> 
> I have found the harnesses, I just want to make sure I buy the correct one.
> 
> ...


 :thumbup:

^^I say stick with the 16V Corrado harness and get yourself a Corrado VSS


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> :thumbup:
> 
> ^^I say stick with the 16V Corrado harness and get yourself a Corrado VSS


 x2, and get the VSS for your transmission code. The ring gear is different for different models IIRC and I'm not sure if the pulse from is its the same.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Hmm, I have a spare Seat Ibiza 2.0 16V tacho wiring harness and a spare MK3 Golf VR6 tacho wiring harness...I'm gonna give those 2 a try and if that doesn't work I'm ordering the Corrado 16V (9A) harness I found. 

Anyone has a Corrado VSS for sale??? 

Man, figuring out wiring stuff is horrible :banghead:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Man, figuring out wiring stuff is horrible :banghead:


 Only on hybrids


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## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I haven't heard much about them, but please keep me informed :thumbup:


 I'll let you know. Also, Dubzak spoke highly of the Gruven Tens. pulley & may know a bit about the other ones. :beer: 

____________________________________


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

PrjktRado1 said:


> I'll let you know. Also, Dubzak spoke highly of the Gruven Tens. pulley & may know a bit about the other ones. :beer:


 Ha, mine was cracked and was chewing up my belt, so I put my badass plastic welding skills to use and I can has perfect pulley


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## oatcorrado (May 9, 2008)

*boost gauge*

my car is a 90 g60 with a fresh rebuild on complete motor and a lysholm charger, i just installed a boost gauge and it is not working, i T'd into the vacuum line for the mfa,behind the cluster. i have checked all the boost tubes for leaks and i dont know what else it could be, help would be appreciated


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

oatcorrado said:


> my car is a 90 g60 with a fresh rebuild on complete motor and a lysholm charger, i just installed a boost gauge and it is not working, i T'd into the vacuum line for the mfa,behind the cluster. i have checked all the boost tubes for leaks and i dont know what else it could be, help would be appreciated


 Pull the hose off for the T you just installed and turn the car on, put your finger over the hole in the end of the hose, rev the motor a few times and see if you are getting vacuum/boost for starters. If you are not, check that all of your vac lines are installed properly and the A/C line has the check valve on it. If still no luck, blow out the hard lines, not too much air pressure!!! :thumbup:


----------



## oatcorrado (May 9, 2008)

i revved the motor and all i get is vacuum its sucking the whole time where is the a/c check valve located at and what hard lines do you mean


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

oatcorrado said:


> i revved the motor and all i get is vacuum its sucking the whole time where is the a/c check valve located at and what hard lines do you mean


 Do same test, but mash the pedal to the floor  Not for long, just long enough to get the G revving (say 4-5K rpm's) and the diverter valve closed :thumbup: 

Depending on if you have deleted your carbon canister??, but there should be a T fitting near your firewall or by your intake, the hose that goes off toward the pass side of the car and enters the firewall about midway is for A/C and should have a little check valve in it (the side going to the MFA wont), mine is blue and about the size of a nickel in diameter and about 1/2" long. The hard lines I was referring to are the plastic hard lines that penetrate the firewall. since you are pulling vac, that eliminates a clogged line, so icksnay on clearing the lines.


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Ha, mine was cracked and was chewing up my belt, so I put my badass plastic welding skills to use and I can has perfect pulley


 Not sure if the tens. pulleys are the same size ( vr6 to g60) but I have a spare if it is. 

___________________________________


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## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

Trying to get rebuilt Alternator into car & no go. Engine is jacked up on left side for clearance, but alt. mounting points are not wide enough to fit over alternator bracket. Should I try to loosen the phillip screws to open the casing a little? 

It's a 120 amp Bosch like the original but would there be any differences in the alternator if it were from another model? This was sent to me w/a pulley attached from germanautoparts & the new pulley is about 2mm wider than my original. WTF!!! 

___________________________________


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

PrjktRado1 said:


> Not sure if the tens. pulleys are the same size ( vr6 to g60) but I have a spare if it is.


 Doubt it  

About your alt woes, that sucks you are having issues, I know they fit real tight and bosch reman should use the same case as OE... Weird about pulley too


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

PrjktRado1 said:


> Trying to get rebuilt Alternator into car & no go. Engine is jacked up on left side for clearance, but alt. mounting points are not wide enough to fit over alternator bracket. Should I try to loosen the phillip screws to open the casing a little?
> 
> It's a 120 amp Bosch like the original but would there be any differences in the alternator if it were from another model? This was sent to me w/a pulley attached from germanautoparts & the new pulley is about 2mm wider than my original. WTF!!!
> 
> ___________________________________


 I think I would re-use the original pulley on the new alternator.


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

^^^ Thanks guys. I was thinking the same thing about changing the pulley over. 

The only other thing I can think of is to grind down some of the extra metal inside the threaded areas on the alternator. 

_______________________________________________


----------



## nomad1721 (Apr 4, 2005)

nomad1721 said:


> Hey experts,
> 
> I've got two questions for y'all.
> 
> ...


 Anyone? Thanks!


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

I am pulling my trans to do clutch flywheel etc. I am pretty much just following the bentley as this is my first time pulling trans on my own. Only other time I did anything like this was with a mechanic helping me on a 2.0 jetta. and there was alot more room than vr rado. I pulled what looks to be the upper trans bolt and some coolant leaked out of the hole. Its a little hard to see in there but im pretty sure it is the upper trans/engine bolt. Is this normal? Do I have the wrong bolt?  
here are the best pics i could get.


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

PrjktRado1 said:


> ^^^ Thanks guys. I was thinking the same thing about changing the pulley over.
> 
> The only other thing I can think of is to grind down some of the extra metal inside the threaded areas on the alternator.
> 
> _______________________________________________


 Well I'm glad I didn't grind anything down. A mechanic I go to showed me how the extra metal is actually an insert. He beat the hell out of it w/a punch of some sort & opened it right up. This gave me a lot more room than I needed but once I got the bolt threaded through it sinched up nice n' tight. 

Has anyone had to do anything similar? Actually wouldn't have been to bad if it weren't for this & the pulley problem. 

___________________________________________


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Wrong bolt. Had a customers car come in last year after some shop installed a new transmission for him...Had to pull the transmission and when I started pulling the bolts all the coolant came out. You can use some heavy duty sealant but make sure to clean the threads out completely with carb clean or such so that they dont have any contaminants so the sealant can bond to the threads.


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

This is probably the noobist question ever but when rolling the front fenders how does one attach the fender liner if there is no inner ledge to attach it to?


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

iAco said:


> This is probably the noobist question ever but when rolling the front fenders how does one attach the fender liner if there is no inner ledge to attach it to?


 You don't. Leave it out. If it were me I'd Rockguard, or undercoat the entire fenderwell though.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

NoCYet said:


> You don't. Leave it out. If it were me I'd Rockguard, or undercoat the entire fenderwell though.


:thumbup: That's exactly what I've done (actually the shop,lol :laugh, to prevent them from rusting in the future...

I know Kyle is trying to figure out a way of placing (some of) the liner back there


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

iAco said:


> This is probably the noobist question ever but when rolling the front fenders how does one attach the fender liner if there is no inner ledge to attach it to?


It is possible 



NoCYet said:


> You don't.


Not true 



RedYellowWhite said:


> I know Kyle is trying to figure out a way of placing (some of) the liner back there


IIRC, Kyle is trying to figure how to do it with pulled fenders 

Bah, thought I had a pic close enough, but I don't... There are enough mounting points inside the well to achieve this and the fronts mounting pionts in my strut towers have been shaved. I will see if I can shoot some pics later, but it can be done


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

Sr. Karmann said:


> It is possible
> Bah, thought I had a pic close enough, but I don't... There are enough mounting points inside the well to achieve this and the fronts mounting pionts in my strut towers have been shaved. I will see if I can shoot some pics later, but it can be done


Hmm. Seems like they would just flap around in there at speed. :screwy:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

NoCYet said:


> Hmm. Seems like they would just flap around in there at speed. :screwy:


No flappin on mine, and she has been to speed  mine turned out to be super secure :thumbup: They kind of hook on the bumper and a small portion of the lower fender, then the remaining screw points really snug it up :beer:


----------



## palakaman (Oct 8, 2006)

'93 VR6: I have a running rich condition which has thrown a CEL. I forget what codes came up. but somthing about the o2 sensor. Thought for sure a new one would fix it, anyways I replaced that. No go. So we thought it was a bad ground connected to the seonsor. Tested that, It had a good ground. So the next thought was a FPR. Does it seem like I'm on the right track? Anything I should check before replacing that?


----------



## udun4 (Oct 13, 2007)

I have a 2.5L 09 Jetta. I want to get it flashed. I am a bit afraid because of the warrenty. I am in MD and have C2 and APR out of the same location. I am battling because APR is more expensive but seems to give about the same results. I want some advice. Whats comfortable but fast for the gas choice. Will it mess up anything with the flash. Is it noticable. Will VW void everything.Whats the recommedations about brand.

Thanks for help


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

udun4 said:


> I have a 2.5L 09 Jetta. I want to get it flashed. I am a bit afraid because of the warrenty. I am in MD and have C2 and APR out of the same location. I am battling because APR is more expensive but seems to give about the same results. I want some advice. Whats comfortable but fast for the gas choice. Will it mess up anything with the flash. Is it noticable. Will VW void everything.Whats the recommedations about brand.
> 
> Thanks for help


Wrong forum dood :screwy:


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> Wrong bolt. Had a customers car come in last year after some shop installed a new transmission for him...Had to pull the transmission and when I started pulling the bolts all the coolant came out. You can use some heavy duty sealant but make sure to clean the threads out completely with carb clean or such so that they dont have any contaminants so the sealant can bond to the threads.


Definatly the wrong bolt. Must have been previously installed when the swap was done. Im guessing this sealant thing is only a temp fix?:banghead:


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

Sr. Karmann said:


> No flappin on mine, and she has been to speed  mine turned out to be super secure :thumbup: They kind of hook on the bumper and a small portion of the lower fender, then the remaining screw points really snug it up :beer:


Some pictures would be fantastic. How much is your lip rolled up? Is it as far as it can go?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

iAco said:


> Some pictures would be fantastic. How much is your lip rolled up? Is it as far as it can go?


Yep, squashed flat


----------



## InstantKarma (Jan 5, 2005)

what do you guys normally set your timing at? 10-12 btdc is what I have found to be common but I'm just wondering. car has stage 4 chip and charger pushing about 14-15psi. also about how many teeth on the flywheel would be considered 10 degrees? I found it posted somewhere else that someone had done the calculations but lost it now.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

eurotrashmax said:


> I got one for you all. PO changed out the 92 gauge faces for 93+ faces and needles. As the result of that, the car's speed was off by +10mph. Just earlier i tried to fix the problem by rotating the needle clockwise and pulling it over the post. I got this advice from a thread i found on here a few years ago, i just never tried it cause i was scared to snap the needle. Well i did it, but then the needle didn't move at all when i drove it. So i moved it back, but now its -10mph off. Anything one have any experience, suggestions in this or know of the thread i'm talking about? I tried searching for it but i'm sure its long lost during the shuffle. I'll keep searching for the thread in the mean time.


oldie, but I didnt see it answered. You need to push the needle the other way, not back behind the post, but rather Foreward as if you were burrying the needle. 



PrjktRado1 said:


> Dubzak spoke highly of the Gruven Tens. pulley & may know a bit about the other ones.


It's the only Gruven one I currently run,  


Sr. Karmann said:


> Doubt it


 I haven't looked at the g60 section silly.  :laugh:


----------



## wed3k (Feb 22, 2010)

why would people rather hack the tabs off a vr6 type grill and glue it for g60 placement? id rather just make slots and use vr6 insulators @ 3.60 a piece.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

wed3k said:


> why would people rather hack the tabs off a vr6 type grill and glue it for g60 placement? id rather just make slots and use vr6 insulators @ 3.60 a piece.


There is also the whole issue of the VR6 grill not fitting exactly in a g60 rad support. It takes some work to get it sucked in correctly.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

InstantKarma said:


> what do you guys normally set your timing at? 10-12 btdc is what I have found to be common but I'm just wondering. car has stage 4 chip and charger pushing about 14-15psi. also about how many teeth on the flywheel would be considered 10 degrees? I found it posted somewhere else that someone had done the calculations but lost it now.


Set it to stock. The ECU will try to reset it back to where it needs to be regardless anyways. You will actually lose power by setting it advanced further than stock since the ECU will be playing catchup and throwing the timing back to where it should be.


----------



## wed3k (Feb 22, 2010)

*sigh* i really dont want to hack up this CF grill. worse comes worse ill just rock my g60 after i repaint it.


----------



## InstantKarma (Jan 5, 2005)

is stock just zero degrees then? the bentley says something about using the second mark on the flywheel so i wasnt sure.

either way I'm kinda in the dark because this flywheel has absolutely no marks on it anywhere


----------



## InstantKarma (Jan 5, 2005)

apparently stock is 6 degrees BTDC. 

any tips on how to set it to this with no marks on my flywheel? can anyone go take a look and see how many teeth are between 0 and 6 degrees on a stock flywheel so i can make my own mark? I would greatly appreciate it.


----------



## vwhead5223 (Feb 20, 2006)

*Boost issues*

I have a 90 G60. I was running about 13psi boost. Took the car into the stealership for the heater core recal. Not sure if the heater core change has anything to do with this problem but I can't be sure. Get the car home and not able to make 5psi. I was running a 58mm pulley and the charger was rebuilt a few years ago. Thought it was a blown charger. Got a fresh rebuilt stage 4 charger with factory pulley in now from Kk. Still breaking it in. I have about 400miles on it but I have taken charger to 4000rpm but only once or twice. Still not getting more than 5psi of boost. I pulled and cleaned the intercooler so all of the boost lines there are OK and recently tightend. All of the other boost hoses are Ok as well. I am using an external gauge and the car is running like a dawg so I am certain it is reading correctly. I changed all of the vacuum lines except the one going to the ECU. I do know it has to be 1 meter long and I was not sure I was going to get the lenght correct so I did not change it. It does look to be in good shape. I have an RSR outlet so I know the leak is not the silencer. Linkage at the TB seems to be opening just fine. I have pressure tested the lines and heard air but it was coming out of the charger befor the rebuilt one was in. I don't have an ISV reroute or anything crazy like that. Is there any reason the car would dump boost? I don't hear any whisling noises either. Thanks in advance for your help guys. I am a noob here on the forums but have been a VW guy for years. I also know my way around a engine. I just don't have the time to post much here.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

InstantKarma said:


> is stock just zero degrees then? the bentley says something about using the second mark on the flywheel so i wasnt sure.
> 
> either way I'm kinda in the dark because this flywheel has absolutely no marks on it anywhere





InstantKarma said:


> apparently stock is 6 degrees BTDC.
> 
> any tips on how to set it to this with no marks on my flywheel? can anyone go take a look and see how many teeth are between 0 and 6 degrees on a stock flywheel so i can make my own mark? I would greatly appreciate it.


Did you replace the flywheel then and not mark it like you were supposed to?

Yes 6 BTDC is correct. The large mark on the fly wheel is 6 degrees.

If you have a timing light that you can set how much you are advancing the engine then you can use the cam gear marks. Remember the cam sits at 0 degrees


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

vwhead5223 said:


> I have a 90 G60. I was running about 13psi boost. Took the car into the stealership for the heater core recal. Not sure if the heater core change has anything to do with this problem but I can't be sure. Get the car home and not able to make 5psi. I was running a 58mm pulley and the charger was rebuilt a few years ago. Thought it was a blown charger. Got a fresh rebuilt stage 4 charger with factory pulley in now from Kk. Still breaking it in. I have about 400miles on it but I have taken charger to 4000rpm but only once or twice. Still not getting more than 5psi of boost. I pulled and cleaned the intercooler so all of the boost lines there are OK and recently tightend. All of the other boost hoses are Ok as well. I am using an external gauge and the car is running like a dawg so I am certain it is reading correctly. I changed all of the vacuum lines except the one going to the ECU. I do know it has to be 1 meter long and I was not sure I was going to get the lenght correct so I did not change it. It does look to be in good shape. I have an RSR outlet so I know the leak is not the silencer. Linkage at the TB seems to be opening just fine. I have pressure tested the lines and heard air but it was coming out of the charger befor the rebuilt one was in. I don't have an ISV reroute or anything crazy like that. Is there any reason the car would dump boost? I don't hear any whisling noises either. Thanks in advance for your help guys. I am a noob here on the forums but have been a VW guy for years. I also know my way around a engine. I just don't have the time to post much here.


Proper boost readings will not be at the recorded levels unless you spin over 4000 rpm @ WOT. Procedure is in the Bentley :thumbup:

This is becaust the charger is not spinning at full capacity and diverter flap is open


----------



## InstantKarma (Jan 5, 2005)

TheBurninator said:


> Did you replace the flywheel then and not mark it like you were supposed to?
> 
> Yes 6 BTDC is correct. The large mark on the fly wheel is 6 degrees.
> 
> If you have a timing light that you can set how much you are advancing the engine then you can use the cam gear marks. Remember the cam sits at 0 degrees


the car already had a euarospec flywheel in it when we got it. it has no marks at all anywhere.

I was able to find a closeup picture of a g60 stock flywheel and count the teeth from the pressure plate bolt nearest the marks and find where they go though. So I guess im just gonna have to hope that works our right.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

InstantKarma said:


> the car already had a euarospec flywheel in it when we got it. it has no marks at all anywhere.
> 
> I was able to find a closeup picture of a g60 stock flywheel and count the teeth from the pressure plate bolt nearest the marks and find where they go though. So I guess im just gonna have to hope that works our right.


an advanced timing light will help out tremendously. in this situation.

Crappy that the fly wheel wasn't marked.


----------



## InstantKarma (Jan 5, 2005)

just got the trans back on and started it up... minus one of the lifters ticking a bit its actually running really smooth so i might not need to adjust the timing after all.

also it turns out my oil leak is coming from the oil cooler flange on the block... i took the damn trans off for nothing

fml


----------



## InstantKarma (Jan 5, 2005)

some dumbass *raises hand* forgot to torque down the sandwich plate that goes to the external oil cooler properly.... So there was my leak.

Got it all back together... took it out and ripped it hard. all is well. and now we have a g60 with a nice fully tucked harness ready for dubs in the valley next week.


----------



## palakaman (Oct 8, 2006)

will a vacuum leak cause a rich condition and trigger a CEL? if so, what lines should I check?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

palakaman said:


> will a vacuum leak cause a rich condition and trigger a CEL? if so, what lines should I check?


It can depending on how bad it is.

Check all of them.


----------



## Dorrado (Dec 12, 2001)

what does relay 109 do?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Dorrado said:


> what does relay 109 do?


sorry bro, but that is one lazy ass question :screwy:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Dorrado said:


> what does relay 109 do?


if you remove it or it goes bad your car will implode!


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

Is there a trick to removing the lower front bumper grille? I was taking a look at it before and it doesn't look it it's going anywhere without breaking something. Any tips?


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

iAco said:


> Is there a trick to removing the lower front bumper grille? I was taking a look at it before and it doesn't look it it's going anywhere without breaking something. Any tips?


 It snaps in from the rear. There is a row of slots along the top and bottom of the grille. I've never removed it with the bumper on the car, and I don't think you can without breaking it, because you won't be able to get to the top row of tabs on the bumper to release them.


----------



## Dorrado (Dec 12, 2001)

Sr. Karmann said:


> sorry bro, but that is one lazy ass question :screwy:


you gotta give the guy an easy one every once in awhile


----------



## kanadeca88 (Sep 18, 2008)

Im thinkin about gettin Borbet Type A's 16x9 all around

Question.. will they fit on the G60 body and if not,what do i have to do to make them fit??

Thanks


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

kanadeca88 said:


> Im thinkin about gettin Borbet Type A's 16x9 all around
> 
> Question.. will they fit on the G60 body and if not,what do i have to do to make them fit??
> 
> Thanks


Again :screwy:

It all depends on the ET of the wheels, the tire size you gonna use and how low you want to be...
G60 fenders are not as wide as the VR ones...I think you'll need to pull yours to make them fit and not be 4x4 status


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

kanadeca88 said:


> Im thinkin about gettin Borbet Type A's 16x9 all around
> 
> Question.. will they fit on the G60 body and if not,what do i have to do to make them fit??
> 
> Thanks


Depends on a few factors. What offsets are you looking at, what tires, and what ride height. Also do you plan to roll the fenders?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Depends on a few factors. What offsets are you looking at, what tires, and what ride height. Also do you plan to roll the fenders?


^^ Beat you to it


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^ Beat you to it


I have been drinking so my post automatically beats yours 

I keep forgetting to take pics of those work wheels for you.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> I have been drinking so my post automatically beats yours


^^ :sly: :sly: Fair point there... :laugh:


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> if you remove it or it goes bad your car will implode!


what happens if it implodes while you're in it.... ewwwwww


----------



## kanadeca88 (Sep 18, 2008)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Again :screwy:
> 
> It all depends on the ET of the wheels, the tire size you gonna use and how low you want to be...
> G60 fenders are not as wide as the VR ones...I think you'll need to pull yours to make them fit and not be 4x4 status





TheBurninator said:


> Depends on a few factors. What offsets are you looking at, what tires, and what ride height. Also do you plan to roll the fenders?


The wheels offset is 15 on all 4 and the tires are gonna be 205/40 and im prolly gonna slam it and tuck in the wheels.

I read somewhere that the calipers need to be shaved.. is this true?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^ :sly: :sly: Fair point there... :laugh:


It was good beer too... Although I am regretting having so many and having to work today.



[email protected] said:


> what happens if it implodes while you're in it.... ewwwwww


Ever see a mk5? It looks like that. :laugh:



kanadeca88 said:


> The wheels offset is 15 on all 4 and the tires are gonna be 205/40 and im prolly gonna slam it and tuck in the wheels.
> 
> I read somewhere that the calipers need to be shaved.. is this true?


Not going to tuck sh it with that offset.

ET 15:


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

iAco said:


> Is there a trick to removing the lower front bumper grille? I was taking a look at it before and it doesn't look it it's going anywhere without breaking something. Any tips?


Like it has been said it comes out from the backside. A couple of small flat blade screwdrivers work well to release the tabs. Just be careful not to break them. I've only removed it with the bumper off.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

kanadeca88 said:


> The wheels offset is 15 on all 4 and the tires are gonna be 205/40 and im prolly gonna slam it and tuck in the wheels.


^^ Start pulling those fenders


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

Does the voltage regulator from the G60 alternator work in an ABF alternator? I think this might solve my battery light problem with my ABF set-up. 

The battery light is on when the blue wire is attached but the light goes off when the wire is disconnected. I checked for any shorts but I could not find any.


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

So...since my fan after run was originally not working...now it works all the time..just tried to leave work and the car was totally dead...damnit. 

Which one of these controls the after run...
Brown one on this page...
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Cooling/181/2

or..

http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Cooling/208/2
:screwy:


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

Nevermind I found the answer to my question...the internets informed me.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

As I was discussing with Sr. Karmann earlier:

I went to put the door panels back on the G60 tonite, and when I plugged in the window switches, I couldn't get the windows to go down. Switches are illuminated, when I push any switch you can hear the window module click, and at the same time if you put your hand on the window motor you can feel it "click" or trying to engage. Sunroof motor works, power door locks work.

No other signs of low voltage: headlights aren't dim, battery light isn't on. I don't think it's a fuse / relay / wiring since you can hear the module clicking and the motor trying to work. The fuse and relay in each seat belt motor are removed, but I don't feel that would be the issue. What to do next?

:beer: in advance.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> As I was discussing with Sr. Karmann earlier:
> 
> Since the repaint is done, I went to put the door panels back on the G60 tonite, and when I plugged in the window switches, I couldn't get the windows to go down. Switches are illuminated, when I push any switch you can hear the window module click, and at the same time if you put your hand on the window motor you can feel it "click" or trying to engage...
> 
> ...


Forgot to mention, Flux Capacitor????????



Jim Beam is a helluva drink!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Forgot to mention, Flux Capacitor????????
> 
> 
> 
> Jim Beam is a helluva drink!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


sage advice, my friend...


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> sage advice, my friend...


:laugh:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> As I was discussing with Sr. Karmann earlier:
> 
> I went to put the door panels back on the G60 tonite, and when I plugged in the window switches, I couldn't get the windows to go down. Switches are illuminated, when I push any switch you can hear the window module click, and at the same time if you put your hand on the window motor you can feel it "click" or trying to engage. Sunroof motor works, power door locks work.
> 
> ...


Look in the tracks of the regulator, make sure nothing is jamming it, Make sure there isnt a harness wrapped around anything goofy. Also have you tried pushing it down a little bit when you hit the button?

Did you get into the Jim Beam and decide to hit the up button?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Look in the tracks of the regulator, make sure nothing is jamming it, Make sure there isnt a harness wrapped around anything goofy. Also have you tried pushing it down a little bit when you hit the button?
> 
> Did you get into the Jim Beam and decide to hit the up button?


I'll double check for possible jammage... I think I tried pushing on it last night with the button but no go.

I also heard that the microswitch on the door handle can cause this issue as well... Ima go try the windows with the door handle harness unplugged...

That was Karmann who was hanging out with Mr. Beam, not me! :beer:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> I'll double check for possible jammage... I think I tried pushing on it last night with the button but no go.
> 
> I also heard that the microswitch on the door handle can cause this issue as well... Ima go try the windows with the door handle harness unplugged...
> 
> That was Karmann who was hanging out with Mr. Beam, not me! :beer:


What is really funny is when Karmann tries to pick up girls while hanging out with Mr. Beam. :laugh:

Chad... you need to work on your game man


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> What is really funny is when Karmann tries to pick up girls while hanging out with Mr. Beam. :laugh:
> 
> Chad... you need to work on your game man


:laugh:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Do you think this is normal, pulled ECU vac line today, old one was a tad short :what:............:laugh:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Do you think this is normal, pulled ECU vac line today, old one was a tad short :what:............:laugh:


No, its supposed to be exactly 1m long...but ofcourse u already know that  Did you notice anything weird on how it runs/behaves??? 
Have a brand new oe one myself, just missing the car to fit it on 

Still working on the parking lot I see :sly: 
...and nice sandals btw


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Do you think this is normal, pulled ECU vac line today, old one was a tad short :what:............:laugh:


I really think that is a myth... Im sorry but vacuum attenuation is pretty much nil at those lengths. You need over 50 feet of line to start to get attenuation that is noticeable.

Also I ran less than that for vac line on my mk1 that was running digi 1


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> I'll double check for possible jammage... I think I tried pushing on it last night with the button but no go.
> 
> I also heard that the microswitch on the door handle can cause this issue as well... Ima go try the windows with the door handle harness unplugged...
> 
> That was Karmann who was hanging out with Mr. Beam, not me! :beer:


Got a little further with diagnosis today... If you hold a window switch down for a few seconds the window will go down. So I was thinking possible relay issue. However, If you stop halfway when putting the window back up, you can hit up OR down and the window still goes up.* Control module gone / going bad????*


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Got a little further with diagnosis today... If you hold a window switch down for a few seconds the window will go down. So I was thinking possible relay issue. However, If you stop halfway when putting the window back up, you can hit up OR down and the window still goes up.* Control module gone / going bad????*


Sounds like WCM, sukks I just sent that one from the J/Y C out... :banghead: Time to do the MKIII upgrade 



TheBurninator said:


> I really think that is a myth... Im sorry but vacuum attenuation is pretty much nil at those lengths. You need over 50 feet of line to start to get attenuation that is noticeable.
> 
> Also I ran less than that for vac line on my mk1 that was running digi 1


I played by the rules and agree it sounds somewhat rediculous ...



RedYellowWhite said:


> No, its supposed to be exactly 1m long...but ofcourse u already know that  Did you notice anything weird on how it runs/behaves???
> Have a brand new oe one myself, just missing the car to fit it on
> 
> Still working on the parking lot I see :sly:
> ...and nice sandals btw


The old one was about 8" short and I have noticed 2 things from the get-go, idles way smoother, was having issues with the VW motorsport mounts being too rigid and shaking my dash, not as noticeable now :thumbup: and it also appears my MPG's have improved and just smoother acceleration and cruise, think it may have been running pig rich, cause the exhaust used to bubble on deceleration, which does not happen anymore either, ify on that, liked the bubbly sound... 

And for the North American folks, the proper US length is 39.37 inches, or just shy of 39-3/8" 

I love my Reef's


----------



## Dorrado (Dec 12, 2001)

posted in another threat but since the experts are in here i figure its worth a shot

car was running fine until this happened, making boost, etc
so the car slowly sputters to a stop, doesnt outright die, but slows to 1500 rpm, try to give it gas and no dice
heres what i have done so far and checked

1) cranked the car over and it cranks fine, jumped it, makes no difference
----------------so its got enough juice
2) pulled out a spark plug and held it to the block while starting, can see it sparking
----------------so its got spark
3) pulled the fuel line to the injectors off, fuel shot everywhere
----------------so its got fuel(i can also hear the walbro pumping when i have the ignition on)
4) replaced the crank sensor, that made no difference
5) disconnected the maf and tried to start, no difference
6) unhooked the battery for a day to try to reset the whole system, no difference

i try to start the car, it fires and then dies instantly...

what else can i check to rule out?

would a cam position sensor cause this? i figure it has to be some sort of sensor since i drove roughly 200 miles the day before and then it dies :banghead:


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Sounds like WCM, sukks I just sent that one from the J/Y C out... :banghead: Time to do the MKIII upgrade


Tell me more about this Mk3 upgrade... I am intrigued!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Tell me more about this Mk3 upgrade... I am intrigued!


It's an idea I've been tossing around lately. I posted up a thread in the mkiii forum a couple months ago asking for pictures of the wiring schematics, but got no response, except, moar low :laugh:

Just thought it would be nice to have both windows able to go up and down at the same time, with sunroof control at the door handle 

It may be as simple as grabbing a WCM and harness from the J/Y :thumbup:


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

You can get both windows to work at the same time by replacing the factory WCM with the DEI window modules. The sunroof closure can also be done with a little creativity.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> It's an idea I've been tossing around lately. I posted up a thread in the mkiii forum a couple months ago asking for pictures of the wiring schematics, but got no response, except, moar low :laugh:
> 
> Just thought it would be nice to have both windows able to go up and down at the same time, with sunroof control at the door handle
> 
> It may be as simple as grabbing a WCM and harness from the J/Y :thumbup:


Whoa whoa whoa... operate BOTH windows at the SAME TIME?? You're crazy man... I like you but you're crazy.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

dogger said:


> You can get both windows to work at the same time by replacing the factory WCM with the DEI window modules. The sunroof closure can also be done with a little creativity.


You know I'ma cheapass, but a very creative cheapass 



[email protected] said:


> Whoa whoa whoa... operate BOTH windows at the SAME TIME?? You're crazy man... I like you but you're crazy.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> You know I'ma cheapass, but a very creative cheapass


WCM from a mk3?


----------



## G60Scuzz (Nov 14, 2003)

I always thought the reason why they made one window go up at a time is so it didn't load the window circuit too much. I know it has a 20 amp breaker do you think both windows moving up at the same time would exceed this?

I initially would imagine not but can see where it would if the window motors were old and tired or the windows tracks were gritty causing the additional load on the motor.

Geez now I want to measure the actual current draw :laugh:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

G60Scuzz said:


> I always thought the reason why they made one window go up at a time is so it didn't load the window circuit too much. I know it has a 20 amp breaker do you think both windows moving up at the same time would exceed this?
> 
> I initially would imagine not but can see where it would if the window motors were old and tired or the windows tracks were gritty causing the additional load on the motor.
> 
> Geez now I want to measure the actual current draw :laugh:


You now have something to do today doogie. :laugh:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> WCM from a mk3?


Yep 



G60Scuzz said:


> I always thought the reason why they made one window go up at a time is so it didn't load the window circuit too much. I know it has a 20 amp breaker do you think both windows moving up at the same time would exceed this?
> 
> I initially would imagine not but can see where it would if the window motors were old and tired or the windows tracks were gritty causing the additional load on the motor.
> 
> Geez now I want to measure the actual current draw :laugh:


:thumbup::thumbup:



TheBurninator said:


> You now have something to do today doogie. :laugh:


:laugh:


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

re-lubed the spoiler assembly and disconnected the wiring to do so. got everything back together save for one last plug










2 wires: one ground (brwn) and the other black and red

plug has pn (though I'm pretty sure its just for the connector and-therefore-useless-info-but-you're-getting-it-anyways-so-shut-yo-mouf-when-I-talk-at-you) 867 906 231


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## captain aimless (Sep 24, 2009)

i have a 93 slc that i picked up last year, im fairly experienced with working in cars and vw's are an addiction of mine, this is my first vr car and i bought it needing wiring work:banghead:, iv never seen such a clusterf**ck of wiring before in my life though and the bently manual isnt much help. i have ohm checked most of the wires and found no broken wires and i have even got 90% of the stuff working in the car 3 different times and then found issues and started over. the car has nothing inside of it other than carpet at the moment so everything is accessable. if anyone could give me some more helpful diagrams then the bently manual or some idea as to which of the clips that dont go directly into the fuseblock are used and which ones i can ignore i would really appreciate it or if somebody is close to albany oregon that wants to make some quick cash wiring a corrado then let me know


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

captain aimless said:


> i have a 93 slc that i picked up last year, im fairly experienced with working in cars and vw's are an addiction of mine, this is my first vr car and i bought it needing wiring work:banghead:, iv never seen such a clusterf**ck of wiring before in my life though and the bently manual isnt much help. i have ohm checked most of the wires and found no broken wires and i have even got 90% of the stuff working in the car 3 different times and then found issues and started over. the car has nothing inside of it other than carpet at the moment so everything is accessable. if anyone could give me some more helpful diagrams then the bently manual or some idea as to which of the clips that dont go directly into the fuseblock are used and which ones i can ignore i would really appreciate it or if somebody is close to albany oregon that wants to make some quick cash wiring a corrado then let me know


The bentley is actually pretty intuitive once you learn how to read it.

I don't know of any other wiring diagrams out there to point you to.

Start by looking at what circuit ETC you are dealing with. If there is a connector it will be labled T1/1 or T3/2 stuff like that. :thumbup:


----------



## captain aimless (Sep 24, 2009)

from what i can tell though the bently doesnt tell you what color the connections are and i dont seem to see labels of any kind on the clips, i would just match wire color to wire color and connector to connector but there seems to be about 5 of each, i think i have had it together right a couple times and i think its ground issues keeping the rest from working. iv been getting more and more tempted to just rerun all of my grounds to a couple central body grounds just so im possitive they are all hooked up. this car is reminding me why i love mk1's and aircooled, hardly any wiring in the entire car


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## G60Scuzz (Nov 14, 2003)

Track style diagrams can be some of the most cumbersome to understand. Take extra care in studying the section "General Information" in the wiring diagrams section it covers in complete detail how to interpret them and what each little number / symbol means. 

Learning to understand this style of diagram and working with it will allow you to read almost any other schematic.


----------



## G60Scuzz (Nov 14, 2003)

What doesn't work that you're investigating?

Try not to look at the wiring as a whole, you'll make yourself nuts. Break it down by the section you need, tackle that section, then pick your next wiring project.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

captain aimless said:


> from what i can tell though the bently doesnt tell you what color the connections are and i dont seem to see labels of any kind on the clips, i would just match wire color to wire color and connector to connector but there seems to be about 5 of each, i think i have had it together right a couple times and i think its ground issues keeping the rest from working. iv been getting more and more tempted to just rerun all of my grounds to a couple central body grounds just so im possitive they are all hooked up. this car is reminding me why i love mk1's and aircooled, hardly any wiring in the entire car


Every single wire is labeled with a color in the diagrams. 

Do you not see where it says R/BK or Y or B

Those are all color lables. It also tells you the thickness of each wire in mm (there is a conversion guide in the wiring section too)



G60Scuzz said:


> Try not to look at the wiring as a whole, you'll make yourself nuts. Break it down by the section you need, tackle that section, then pick your next wiring project.


This! :thumbup:


----------



## captain aimless (Sep 24, 2009)

my problem isnt reading the diagrams its the fact that they have 4 or 5 of the same colored connectors with the same size and color wires going to them and cant seem to find anything in the manual depicting which clips are used and which ones arent, but like i said i think iv had it together right a couple times and just have ground issues. like the last time i had it together if the dome light switch was in any posistion other than off the ignition wouldnt work or i will have random lights start flashing for no reason


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## XwesleysnipesX (Jul 7, 2010)

I'm new to the corrados. 
Quick question. I have a 93 slc. And my question is what holds on the shift nob. Is it threaded with a set screw holding it in place. Or just threaded on. I don't want to just yank it off. Thanks. Everything is stock.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

XwesleysnipesX said:


> I'm new to the corrados.
> Quick question. I have a 93 slc. And my question is what holds on the shift nob. Is it threaded with a set screw holding it in place. Or just threaded on. I don't want to just yank it off. Thanks. Everything is stock.


threaded


----------



## XwesleysnipesX (Jul 7, 2010)

Thank you!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

captain aimless said:


> my problem isnt reading the diagrams its the fact that they have 4 or 5 of the same colored connectors with the same size and color wires going to them and cant seem to find anything in the manual depicting which clips are used and which ones arent, but like i said i think iv had it together right a couple times and just have ground issues. like the last time i had it together if the dome light switch was in any posistion other than off the ignition wouldnt work or i will have random lights start flashing for no reason


Well for starters there are some plugs in the back of the fuseblock that don't get plugged in at all.

For other ones you need to actually follow where the wire is coming from (what pin etc on the back of the fuse block) to see exactly what it goes to.

also http://a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html
Good info but some of it is incorrect for corrado stuff. It will get you close though.


----------



## VR6Ewing (Feb 10, 2010)

replaced my old radiator, went A/C delete, and now my fans wont turn on. Any ideas? possibly relay?


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

3rd Brake light.



valet said:


> re-lubed the spoiler assembly and disconnected the wiring to do so. got everything back together save for one last plug
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

already plugged in the third brake light (the smallish one below the LP lights, right?) this one didn't fit there


----------



## G60Scuzz (Nov 14, 2003)

Does that plug into your trunk release button? Noticed on the one I removed the other day there was a micro switch on it.


----------



## G60Scuzz (Nov 14, 2003)

G60Scuzz said:


> I always thought the reason why they made one window go up at a time is so it didn't load the window circuit too much. I know it has a 20 amp breaker do you think both windows moving up at the same time would exceed this?
> 
> I initially would imagine not but can see where it would if the window motors were old and tired or the windows tracks were gritty causing the additional load on the motor.
> 
> Geez now I want to measure the actual current draw :laugh:


Hopefully tonight I will get to hook up my spare door, I don't have any Corrados here at the house but I have a door with a window and reg still in it so that should be most helpful.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

G60Scuzz said:


> Hopefully tonight I will get to hook up my spare door, I don't have any Corrados here at the house but I have a door with a window and reg still in it so that should be most helpful.


:beer:

opcorn:


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

Just bought a 1993 Corrado VR6 SLC, car runs great so far! I wondering if anyone knows the answer to fixing a scraping noise I have when turning the wheel left or right on turns? It does not affect the steering at all, just kind of an annoying sound.

Any help on how to fix this would be great!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> Just bought a 1993 Corrado VR6 SLC, car runs great so far! I wondering if anyone knows the answer to fixing a scraping noise I have when turning the wheel left or right on turns? It does not affect the steering at all, just kind of an annoying sound.
> 
> Any help on how to fix this would be great!


Look'N under the car :laugh:

seriously tho, even if you have to put it on jackstands and look for any clearance issues... Also, my friend had a scraping sound on his VR a few weeks back and it ended up being bad wheel bearings :thumbup:


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Look'N under the car :laugh:
> 
> seriously tho, even if you have to put it on jackstands and look for any clearance issues... Also, my friend had a scraping sound on his VR a few weeks back and it ended up being bad wheel bearings :thumbup:


I don't think it is a clearance issue. It sounds like it is coming from the actual steering colum. Do you think it could be something in there that needs lubricated? 

I need to change my username, that was when I was "dreaming" about getting a Corrado :beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> I don't think it is a clearance issue. It sounds like it is coming from the actual steering colum. Do you think it could be something in there that needs lubricated?
> 
> I need to change my username, that was when I was "dreaming" about getting a Corrado :beer:


Ah, a little more info solves the problem...

Remove your steering wheel and put some di-electric grease on the brass colored ring 

Problem solved :beer:


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Ah, a little more info solves the problem...
> 
> Remove your steering wheel and put some di-electric grease on the brass colored ring
> 
> Problem solved :beer:


Sorry for not disclosing that earlier. I appreciate your help! Where can I get di-electric grease?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> Sorry for not disclosing that earlier. I appreciate your help! Where can I get di-electric grease?


Portugal

No really... autoparts store...


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Portugal
> 
> No really... autoparts store...


Portugal is a little out of my way... 

Autoparts store is more like it 

Thank for the help.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> Sorry for not disclosing that earlier. I appreciate your help! Where can I get di-electric grease?


*HAHA,,,, Burnsy* :laugh:

While you are at it with the di-electric grease, good to put some on *EVERY* connector on the car!


----------



## Sponge Bob (Jun 8, 2009)

My seat belts stopped working in one of my cars, can anyone tell me what usually goes wrong. or where to start trouble shooting?

Thx


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Seatbelt Relays. motors, and wiring. Or be baller and ditch for Euro belts like you should have done a while ago.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Seatbelt Relays. motors, and wiring. Or be baller and ditch for Euro belts like you should have done a while ago.


Totally Baller 

Oh, and Sponge Bob, pull the relays and fuses with the seatbelts in closed position to prevent future failures or potential car fire :thumbup:


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## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> *HAHA,,,, Burnsy* :laugh:
> 
> While you are at it with the di-electric grease, good to put some on *EVERY* connector on the car!


 Sounds good. Once again I appreciate all the help, I am sure I will have more questions to come...


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## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

valet said:


> already plugged in the third brake light (the smallish one below the LP lights, right?) this one didn't fit there


 Hmm, I checked my car, and It was tagged as 3rd brakelight, I tagged each plug as I pulled it. Maye I made a mistake, I'll take a look after work.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> Sounds good. Once again I appreciate all the help, I am sure I will have more questions to come...


 No problem, and you found the right thread


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> I don't think it is a clearance issue. It sounds like it is coming from the actual steering colum. Do you think it could be something in there that needs lubricated?
> 
> I need to change my username, that was when I was "dreaming" about getting a Corrado :beer:


 That "dream" will soon become a nightmare... :laugh:


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> *HAHA,,,, Burnsy* :laugh:
> 
> While you are at it with the di-electric grease, good to put some on *EVERY* connector on the car!


 Man you're all about that dielectric grease ain't ya? :beer:


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## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> I don't think it is a clearance issue. It sounds like it is coming from the actual steering colum. Do you think it could be something in there that needs lubricated?
> 
> *I need to change my username, that was when I was "dreaming" about getting a Corrado* :beer:


 Ha! Me too. Yet ten years, and two Corrados later. I haven't bothered!


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Man you're all about that dielectric grease ain't ya? :beer:


 
Man, I love that stuff, I'll even take some and grease up my... well, that's not important right now, but.... :laugh::laugh:


----------



## lil_kano (Apr 11, 2007)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Man, I love that stuff, I'll even take some and grease up my... well, that's not important right now, but.... :laugh::laugh:


 :sly: ...and where was I??? :laugh:


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## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> No problem, and you found the right thread


 Yeah I have been lurking for sometime now trying to learn as much as I can about the car. So, I know my around the forum fairly well. I look forward to many frustraiting days with the car, but the reward is much greater in my opinion :beer:


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> I look forward to many frustraiting days with the car, but the reward is much greater in my opinion :beer:


 agreed :beer:


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

*Fog's*

Another question for the experts. I need to replace my foglights, and I can only find them sold with the setup that includes the spot for turns, I want to replace just the lenses if at all possible. I did come across the bosche fog lenses...I was wanting to know if these will fit correctly and look flush replacing the factory lenses. If they do not setup right I do not want to use them and will pay the extra money for the Hella setup at german autoparts. 

Thanks for the help in advance. :laugh::laugh:


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

Question...are these two the same? (sans free sway bar) 

http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/...cludes_FREE_NEUSPEED_Sway_Bar&products_id=900 
and 
http://wrdusa.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?...e=11505001&Category_Code=corradovr6suspension 

Just wondering why there is a $300 price difference, usually it's not that large between different retailers...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

chrisd1891 said:


> Question...are these two the same? (sans free sway bar)
> 
> http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/...cludes_FREE_NEUSPEED_Sway_Bar&products_id=900
> and
> ...


 Because MJM is a rip off and wants you to think the swaybar is free


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Because MJM is a rip off and wants you to think the swaybar is free


 Ack. :banghead: 

Thanks :thumbup:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> Another question for the experts. I need to replace my foglights, and I can only find them sold with the setup that includes the spot for turns, I want to replace just the lenses if at all possible. I did come across the bosche fog lenses...I was wanting to know if these will fit correctly and look flush replacing the factory lenses. If they do not setup right I do not want to use them and will pay the extra money for the Hella setup at german autoparts.
> 
> Thanks for the help in advance. :laugh::laugh:


 Hit up originalgermanfolks in the orrado classifieds, he sells genuine hella fog lenses $68 for the pair


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

In my never ending questions about pulling apart my car, is there a trick to pulling out the motor without an engine hoist? I don't plan on doing this very often so buying one really isn't cost effective.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

iAco said:


> In my never ending questions about pulling apart my car, is there a trick to pulling out the motor without an engine hoist? I don't plan on doing this very often so buying one really isn't cost effective.


 I know around here there are places that you can rent them from. 

A g60 it is possible with 2 people if the car is uber low but on a VR6 I don't see it happening without a hoist


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Hit up originalgermanfolks in the orrado classifieds, he sells genuine hella fog lenses $68 for the pair


 Wow, that is exactly what I was looking for . Came across their site a while ago, but did not notice the fog's at that time :banghead:.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Got a little further with diagnosis today... If you hold a window switch down for a few seconds the window will go down. So I was thinking possible relay issue. However, If you stop halfway when putting the window back up, you can hit up OR down and the window still goes up.* Control module gone / going bad????*


 Snagged a brand new module off ebay for only $75 shipped. Gonna make it happen this weekend. It's just plug-and-play, i hope / assume?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Snagged a brand new module off ebay for only $75 shipped. Gonna make it happen this weekend. It's just plug-and-play, i hope / assume?


 P&P :thumbup:


----------



## XwesleysnipesX (Jul 7, 2010)

*Brake Question*

I changed my rear pads last night. And on the way to work this morning I noticed a Burning smell. When I got out of the car I could tell the smell was coming from the drivers side rear. I jacked it up and the wheel spun smoothly. E-brake is working like its supposed to. Any thoughts about this let me know. Thanks you:beer:


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> P&P :thumbup:


 :thumbup:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

XwesleysnipesX said:


> I changed my rear pads last night. And on the way to work this morning I noticed a Burning smell. When I got out of the car I could tell the smell was coming from the drivers side rear. I jacked it up and the wheel spun smoothly. E-brake is working like its supposed to. Any thoughts about this let me know. Thanks you:beer:


 Did you use the tool to screw the piston back in the caliper? Was the piston seized?


----------



## XwesleysnipesX (Jul 7, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> Did you use the tool to screw the piston back in the caliper? Was the piston seized?


 Thanks for the reply. Yes I used the correct tool. And the piston seemed okay. Screwed in just fine.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

XwesleysnipesX said:


> Thanks for the reply. Yes I used the correct tool. And the piston seemed okay. Screwed in just fine.


 Pull the ebrake cables off the caliper and zip tie them out of the way. Test drive the car and see if you are still having an issue. Sounds like one of your calipers may be seized just enough to not return the piston a bit while you drive.


----------



## XwesleysnipesX (Jul 7, 2010)

Okay. I was leaning the same way. I will do that. Thanks:beer:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

XwesleysnipesX said:


> Okay. I was leaning the same way. I will do that. Thanks:beer:


 If they are seized and you have a few bucks laying around mk4 calipers :thumbup: You will need conversion lines 

with rubber 
http://www.fourseasontuning.com/?product=499 

with stainless 
http://www.fourseasontuning.com/?product=500


----------



## XwesleysnipesX (Jul 7, 2010)

Thanks agiain for your help! :thumbup:


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

*Rs bolts*

Need help. Im redrilling my Rs' to 5x100, so yall know the holes are real close to the center bore. So question is, do i have to get special bolts with smaller heads to make sure they bolt all the way in without getting in the way of the hub? Or will longer bolts do the trick? Thanks for u help


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

What would be correct idling pressure once car is warm (220+) oil temp on a 93 vr6 w.87k. 

Thanks


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

dfuze1 said:


> Need help. Im redrilling my Rs' to 5x100, so yall know the holes are real close to the center bore. So question is, do i have to get special bolts with smaller heads to make sure they bolt all the way in without getting in the way of the hub? Or will longer bolts do the trick? Thanks for u help


 depends... how close to the center bore are we talking?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> What would be correct idling pressure once car is warm (220+) oil temp on a 93 vr6 w.87k.
> 
> Thanks


 Those temps are normal. Oil pressure is relative to the RPM... do you have a bentley? It should state it in there. I am no where near mine to look it up


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

iAco said:


> In my never ending questions about pulling apart my car, is there a trick to pulling out the motor without an engine hoist? I don't plan on doing this very often so buying one really isn't cost effective.


 Hit up Craigslist. I picked up a used hoist for $80, and the guy even delivered it to my house for me. When I'm done, I can turn around, and sell it for at least what I paid for it. :thumbup:


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

Well, i really dont know how close, but must be pretty close because the shop i went to told me to get special bolts with smaller heads, so the bolts can screw in with the socket. I have seen pics but every time i see some one selling redrills i never hear them talking bout different or "special" bolts...


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

NoCYet said:


> Hit up Craigslist. I picked up a used hoist for $80, and the guy even delivered it to my house for me. When I'm done, I can turn around, and sell it for at least what I paid for it. :thumbup:


 Thanks for the tip. I hit up a few guys selling them around me for pretty cheap. 


Another question since this is my new favorite thread. Do I need to worry about destroying anything when I disconnect the power steering lines? Also any tips on disconnecting them? It looks like it might be easier to take them off the power steering pump and then get to the rest when the motor is out?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Here's a question: I just had the car painted, and the body shop removed both the sunroof and windshield during the process. The headliner has not been re-installed yet, but at speeds of 45mph and up, I'm getting a lot of wind noise from either the top of the windshield or the sunroof, (I can't pinpoint it). 

*Is it normal to hear the windnoise just because the headliner is out, or did the body shop do a poor reinstallation of the windshield and/or sunroof...?* 

I'm going to hit the windshield with a hose to check for water instrusion as a way to possibly eliminate the windshield as the noise source.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

iAco said:


> Thanks for the tip. I hit up a few guys selling them around me for pretty cheap.
> 
> 
> Another question since this is my new favorite thread. Do I need to worry about destroying anything when I disconnect the power steering lines? Also any tips on disconnecting them? It looks like it might be easier to take them off the power steering pump and then get to the rest when the motor is out?


 Much easier when you disconnect from the pump. Much more room to deal with them and drain them easier without making as much of a mess (you will make a mess) 



[email protected] said:


> Here's a question: I just had the car painted, and the body shop removed both the sunroof and windshield during the process. The headliner has not been re-installed yet, but at speeds of 45mph and up, I'm getting a lot of wind noise from either the top of the windshield or the sunroof, (I can't pinpoint it).
> 
> *Is it normal to hear the windnoise just because the headliner is out, or did the body shop do a poor reinstallation of the windshield and/or sunroof...?*
> 
> I'm going to hit the windshield with a hose to check for water instrusion as a way to possibly eliminate the windshield as the noise source.


 They probably aligned the sunroof wrong. Deff check the windshield for leaks though.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> They probably aligned the sunroof wrong. Deff check the windshield for leaks though.


 I'm hoping it's just the sunroof - thats an easy fix. If I put in the B4 Passat glass roof, should I just get used to the noise now so it's no big deal once the glass one is in? I heard they catch a little wind up there when installed on the Corrado.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> I'm hoping it's just the sunroof - thats an easy fix. If I put in the B4 Passat glass roof, should I just get used to the noise now so it's no big deal once the glass one is in? I heard they catch a little wind up there when installed on the Corrado.


 Not much difference and yes you will get alot more wind noise with no headliner


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Not much difference and yes you will get alot more wind noise with no headliner


 That's good to know. Seems a bit exessive so maybe a little adjustment and a headliner and it'll be "quiet" again.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> That's good to know. Seems a bit exessive so maybe a little adjustment and a headliner and it'll be "quiet*ER*" again.


 ^ Fixed :laugh:


----------



## d-bot (Sep 6, 2004)

hi im new to diz forum and like coradoze wutz the best body kitted for muy rado thx gaiz.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

d-bot said:


> hi im new to diz forum and like coradoze wutz the best body kitted for muy rado thx gaiz.


 oh, the best one is from a scirocco! You should ask that forum :laugh: 

You comin to h2o this year again dbot?


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

:banghead:


TheBurninator said:


> Those temps are normal. Oil pressure is relative to the RPM... do you have a bentley? It should state it in there. I am no where near mine to look it up


 Thanks for the feedback. I was looking to get oil pressure readings. I am running 1-2 on my oil pressure gauge, is this normal?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> :banghead:
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. I was looking to get oil pressure readings. I am running 1-2 on my oil pressure gauge, is this normal?


 Is this when the engine is cold? what RPM?


----------



## d-bot (Sep 6, 2004)

TheBurninator said:


> oh, the best one is from a scirocco! You should ask that forum :laugh:
> 
> You comin to h2o this year again dbot?


 sweet! got a few of those kickin around!!! 

No H20 this year. When I finish da S1 I will bring that out all 4 wheels blazin'  

Oh was just in Colorado a few months ago. Nice place. Should have hit you fools up!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

d-bot said:


> sweet! got a few of those kickin around!!!
> 
> No H20 this year. When I finish da S1 I will bring that out all 4 wheels blazin'
> 
> Oh was just in Colorado a few months ago. Nice place. Should have hit you fools up!


 all four wheels on the S1? Synchro? 

Tell Raven I say hi. If you ever make it back out here hit me up :thumbup: Grab a few beers


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> I don't think it is a clearance issue. It sounds like it is coming from the actual steering colum. Do you think it could be something in there that needs lubricated?


 already answered well, but another option is to simply blow compressed air behind the horn button. the scraping noise is simply copper dust built up over the years from the ring that allows the horn contacts to rotate when the wheel is rotated. tremendously common in ALLLLL vw's.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Noobercorn said:


> already answered well, but another option is to simply blow compressed air behind the horn button. the scraping noise is simply copper dust built up over the years from the ring that allows the horn contacts to rotate when the wheel is rotated. tremendously common in ALLLLL vw's.


 12,000 posts :beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> 12,000 posts :beer:


 Most of which are in the MK forums :what:.........:laugh:


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

that was actually post # 23,243 if you go by all of my screen names: "mikemcnair", "mikemcnair*.*", and "noobercorn"...... but who's counting....


----------



## flatnbagged (May 10, 2010)

i have a 91 g60 automatic :banghead: i bought a parts rado that has a 5-speed. just wondering if i had to switch harnesses or ecu or anything? or is it just a straight bolt it? any help would be appreciated. thanks


----------



## RowBoatsVdubs (Mar 18, 2008)

this thread should be sticky:screwy:opcorn:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

flatnbagged said:


> i have a 91 g60 automatic :banghead: i bought a parts rado that has a 5-speed. just wondering if i had to switch harnesses or ecu or anything? or is it just a straight bolt it? any help would be appreciated. thanks


 Just tranny, shifter and pedal cluster for now, but would be advised to remove wiring when you can, I believe there is a writeup on CCC and in the FAQ :thumbup:


----------



## RowBoatsVdubs (Mar 18, 2008)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4982834-semi-educated-corrado-questions


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

TheBurninator said:


> Much easier when you disconnect from the pump. Much more room to deal with them and drain them easier without making as much of a mess (you will make a mess)


 Thanks for the tip. I managed to only make a little mess. However I got brake fluid all over the floor. Gotta clean that up tomorrow.


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Is this when the engine is cold? what RPM?


 This is when the car is warm and at idle.


----------



## flatnbagged (May 10, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Just tranny, shifter and pedal cluster for now, but would be advised to remove wiring when you can, I believe there is a writeup on CCC and in the FAQ :thumbup:


 so you think i would need the wiring harness out of the parts car?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

flatnbagged said:


> so you think i would need the wiring harness out of the parts car?


No, not at all, the ECU is different, but will work, engine harness is the same... I am running an auto ECU in a previously auto swapped 5 speed by the PO, when I did my bay, I pulled all of the auto harness out, all of which went directly to the auto trans control module under the pass side kick panel :thumbup:

*77 PWNAGE*


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

Does anybody know what the Eibach flat strut bar is made of? I think it is aluminum but can't tell for sure.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

iAco said:


> Does anybody know what the Eibach flat strut bar is made of? I think it is aluminum but can't tell for sure.


Yep Aluminum! You can just drop that little piece off at my door step too....


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

iAco said:


> Does anybody know what the Eibach flat strut bar is made of? I think it is aluminum but can't tell for sure.


GOLD!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

turtledub said:


> GOLD!


Correction, it is made of unobtainium :laugh:


----------



## big_hot_tamale (Dec 20, 2003)

*Wiring Woes*

Hope this is the thread to post this...

1990 G60

I relocated the battery to the trunk, car was running for a few days, got in this morning, turned the key to 'on' everything looked fine in the gauge cluster (proper red lights on/flashing), turned it to crank and not a sound... blackout, lost all power. Checking the system up where the battery used to be (and now where a power dist block is located), seems that the + wire (red) that is in the loom with the brown wire, that get's bundled in the large loom that leads back to the fusebox, is now a ground. The other + wire (red) that get's bundled with the green and red/white is still fine. Any quick ideas as how my fusebox is now entirely grounded. just by a turn of the key to crank?

no stereo system, no after-market alarm. 

From the + dist. block I have....
(top left) + wire to the starter, + wire to the alt +, 
(bottom right) + wire to headlight relays
(top right) +wires that are loomed up and head back towards the firewall. 

the one that's not connected in the pic is reading ground, and heads back to the fusebox. Multiple
red wires connected to the back of the fusebox are now reading ground also, including the two
pictured below in the second pic.










Also looking over the fuse box, the PO has installed an inline 30amp fuse which jumpers two of the solid thick red wires. Is this normal? (There are two locations on the back of the fusebox where thick red wires connect, but only one of the two has 3 red wires in a row) They are the thicker 2 of the 3 red wires in a row with red plastic covers that connect to the back of the box along the outer edge.
The car was running fine for years with this homemade addition, I just want to know if anyone else
has this done?









any thoughts? I have a multimeter and know how to use it. I have a Bentley also. Short of disconnecting everything and following every lead out to see where this ground suddenly
appeared from, any ideas?

thanks


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

big_hot_tamale said:


> Hope this is the thread to post this...
> 
> 1990 G60
> 
> ...


Why are you using a fused distribution block for main power?

Have you checked to make sure your grounds are good and clean? Where is the fuse block main power at? Have you checked fuses?

In the second pic I cant really tell which two wires are jumpered with that fused connection. Can you get a clearer pic? One that is at a better angle?


----------



## big_hot_tamale (Dec 20, 2003)

TheBurninator said:


> Why are you using a fused distribution block for main power?


Ease of installation. For main power I can relocate those two + red wires to the to of the dist block so it's not using a fuse, but I will be wanting the fuses for the headlight relays and future stereo/alarm power connections.



TheBurninator said:


> Have you checked to make sure your grounds are good and clean? Where is the fuse block main power at? Have you checked fuses?


Yes, the grounds that were prev on the - battery terminal were cleaned, sanded and attached at that post (in the pics) the battery has a clean ground from the - terminal to the rear chassy bolt (where the driver's rear speaker deck attaches to the rear of the car. I also inspected all of the grounds located above the fuse box, one was burned (who knows when that happened tho) after removing it and cleaning it, it's a good ground now. Fuses all look fine. I have no idea where the fuse block main power is at, I assume it should be the wire I don't have attached to the power dist block since it's currently reading as a ground.

NOTE: as pictured, the car's electrical system is reading 12.8v across the entire vehicle. At the battery to various chassy points it all reads fine, and up front from the dist block to various chassy grounds, it all reads 12.7v (i'm getting a .1v drop from rear to front, not bad)



TheBurninator said:


> In the second pic I cant really tell which two wires are jumpered with that fused connection. Can you get a clearer pic? One that is at a better angle?


don't know how much of a better pic I can get, the fuses are back and down so this would be the top rear of the fuse panel (top side, away from the fuse row. If it was mounted properly I would think those 2 wires that are bridged would be located top right.

I don't know why they are bridged, that's obviously a homemade crappy solder job. I was hoping someone would have an idea why someone would do that.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

big_hot_tamale said:


> Ease of installation. For main power I can relocate those two + red wires to the to of the dist block so it's not using a fuse, but I will be wanting the fuses for the headlight relays and future stereo/alarm power connections.


Just throw them all onto the starter and use that as your power distribution point in the bay.

You should be running your stereo wiring from the battery not from the front of the vehicle since you relocated everything.



big_hot_tamale said:


> Yes, the grounds that were prev on the - battery terminal were cleaned, sanded and attached at that post (in the pics) the battery has a clean ground from the - terminal to the rear chassy bolt (where the driver's rear speaker deck attaches to the rear of the car. I also inspected all of the grounds located above the fuse box, one was burned (who knows when that happened tho) after removing it and cleaning it, it's a good ground now. Fuses all look fine. I have no idea where the fuse block main power is at, I assume it should be the wire I don't have attached to the power dist block since it's currently reading as a ground.


Umm.. it is a big red wire. 4gauge in the engine bay, hard to miss.



big_hot_tamale said:


> don't know how much of a better pic I can get, the fuses are back and down so this would be the top rear of the fuse panel (top side, away from the fuse row. If it was mounted properly I would think those 2 wires that are bridged would be located top right.
> 
> I don't know why they are bridged, that's obviously a homemade crappy solder job. I was hoping someone would have an idea why someone would do that.


Well if I could tell exactly which two wires were tied together like that I could give you an idea of why it was done. Making an educated guess right now there is power missing from one terminal so they used the other to send power to the second one. All of those are power down there but it is a matter of which one is trying to get power.


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

TheBurninator said:


> Yep Aluminum! You can just drop that little piece off at my door step too....


Thanks. :thumbup: Just PM me your address and I'll drop it in a box along with the VSR and send it your way.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

iAco said:


> Thanks. :thumbup: Just PM me your address and I'll drop it in a box along with the VSR and send it your way.


Sweet! And it sounds like you are even polishing it for me too


----------



## big_hot_tamale (Dec 20, 2003)

TheBurninator said:


> Just throw them all onto the starter and use that as your power distribution point in the bay.
> 
> You should be running your stereo wiring from the battery not from the front of the vehicle since you relocated everything.
> 
> ...


Yeah, I would run them all to the starter but they don't reach, for now. So until I get some time to get the proper gauge wire, heat shrink and connectors, that block will have to do  This power block and my stereo (or entire lack there of) is not the issue here.

Umm yeah, there are 2 4au wires that connect to the + battery terminal, one is fine (the one connected to the dist block in the pic), the other one, not connected in the pic, is showing as a ground, along with every 4au red + wire on the back of my fuse box. So I assume that red wire, bundled with a 4au brown wire which in turn is bundled with the large loom that goes back through the firewall, is the main power to the fusebox?

This is my issue, somehow by trying to crank the car, presto my entire fusebox is grounded, and continues to be. I've visually checked for a stripped/exposed power wire that may be grounding out, to no avail.

I suppose, the only solution is to disconnect everything from the back of the fusebox one by one until the 4au red wire at the battery location is no longer ground? And then I'll know what's grounding out the + wires of my fusebox?


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

TheBurninator said:


> Sweet! And it sounds like you are even polishing it for me too


You can pick them up at H2o if you want.

Does anybody know of anybody that can weld aluminum?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

iAco said:


> You can pick them up at H2o if you want.
> 
> Does anybody know of anybody that can weld aluminum?


OOOOH, neato :laugh:


I would look for a local place that can do it for you. Also it will depend on if you are trying to weld cast or sheet. :thumbup:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

big_hot_tamale said:


> Yeah, I would run them all to the starter but they don't reach, for now. So until I get some time to get the proper gauge wire, heat shrink and connectors, that block will have to do  This power block and my stereo (or entire lack there of) is not the issue here.
> 
> Umm yeah, there are 2 4au wires that connect to the + battery terminal, one is fine (the one connected to the dist block in the pic), the other one, not connected in the pic, is showing as a ground, along with every 4au red + wire on the back of my fuse box. So I assume that red wire, bundled with a 4au brown wire which in turn is bundled with the large loom that goes back through the firewall, is the main power to the fusebox?
> 
> ...


You could just disconnect the main power wires and follow them that way. But it could really be a number of things. Your car looks like a bit of a wiring mess.


----------



## big_hot_tamale (Dec 20, 2003)

TheBurninator said:


> You could just disconnect the main power wires and follow them that way. But it could really be a number of things. Your car looks like a bit of a wiring mess.


yeah it does look that way, and unfortunately I didn't want to hear that but yeah, time to chase it all out.
I went through and removed and reinstalled every fuse, now the main power wire to the fusebox (not connected in the pic) is showing 1.8oms of resistance between it and ground, yet when I connect it to the +12v my voltage drops to 3v, so it's still grounding or something. uggg.

Anyone know, is the back of the fusebox keyed? or do multiple plugs fit in multiple slots and I need to label and map everything as I unplug?

thanks


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

big_hot_tamale said:


> yeah it does look that way, and unfortunately I didn't want to hear that but yeah, time to chase it all out.
> I went through and removed and reinstalled every fuse, now the main power wire to the fusebox (not connected in the pic) is showing 1.8oms of resistance between it and ground, yet when I connect it to the +12v my voltage drops to 3v, so it's still grounding or something. uggg.
> 
> Anyone know, is the back of the fusebox keyed? or do multiple plugs fit in multiple slots and I need to label and map everything as I unplug?
> ...


Things can only go in one way but I wouldn't take that route. Especially when you just need to pull 1 or two connectors.

There are a couple that aren't keyed and those are main power and grounds. There is a layout of the back of the fuse block in the bentley.

Also I doubt it is grounding if you are reading that much resistance on it. Sounds like the wire is in pretty crappy shape.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

iAco said:


> Does anybody know of anybody that can weld aluminum?


what do you need welded? My shop does all aluminum welding... and plastic too (that's my current job  )


----------



## big_hot_tamale (Dec 20, 2003)

TheBurninator said:


> Things can only go in one way but I wouldn't take that route. Especially when you just need to pull 1 or two connectors.
> 
> There are a couple that aren't keyed and those are main power and grounds. There is a layout of the back of the fuse block in the bentley.
> 
> Also I doubt it is grounding if you are reading that much resistance on it. Sounds like the wire is in pretty crappy shape.


I cleaned up the wires decently, enough that it's not going to cause so much resistance as to not carry 12v, so, Update:

From the back of the fusebox, [Y] is my terminal 30 that goes to the battery + post. Which is the problem wire which grounds out my entire electrical system when connected to the battery +.

It's the red wire in picture 1 not connected to the block, and top far right red wire shown in my picture 2, the one with the bridged fuse to the one to the left of it. I removed that bridged fuse for cleanup/diag testing.

So, even with the two red wires to the left of [Y] removed, and [30][30B][Z1] removed, [Y] is still shorting my ele system when connected to the fusebox. When not connected to the back of the fusebox, the wire connector [Y] tests a healthy 12.8v, soon as i plug it into the fusebox,


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> This is when the car is warm and at idle.


I am still looking to get an oil pressure question answered. When the car is warm and idling my oil pressure gauge is showing 1-2. Is this normal, or should it be higher? :beer:

Thanks!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> I am still looking to get an oil pressure question answered. When the car is warm and idling my oil pressure gauge is showing 1-2. Is this normal, or should it be higher? :beer:
> 
> Thanks!


normal


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

big_hot_tamale said:


> I cleaned up the wires decently, enough that it's not going to cause so much resistance as to not carry 12v, so, Update:
> 
> From the back of the fusebox, [Y] is my terminal 30 that goes to the battery + post. Which is the problem wire which grounds out my entire electrical system when connected to the battery +.
> 
> ...


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

big_hot_tamale said:


> Hope this is the thread to post this...
> 
> 1990 G60
> 
> I relocated the battery to the trunk, car was running for a few days, got in this morning, turned the key to 'on' everything looked fine in the gauge cluster (proper red lights on/flashing), *turned it to crank and not a sound... blackout, lost all power. *(


as simple as it sounds, that is a good indication of a dead battery. have you checked voltage?





iAco said:


> Thanks. :thumbup: Just PM me your address and I'll drop it in a box along with the VSR and send it your way.


he lives on GAY street. i am not kidding either. 



iAco said:


> Does anybody know of anybody that can weld aluminum?


yep, my old shop mate (the dude i rented with) is a MASTER aluminum welder. if you need something done for [basically] free. PM me for deets.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Noobercorn said:


> he lives on GAY street. i am not kidding either.


Used to. I live on gooseberry now. 


What I want to know is what kind of city has a GAY street?:sly:


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Used to. I live on gooseberry now.
> 
> 
> What I want to know is what kind of city has a GAY street?:sly:


I would answer that with a non-politically correct reply if I didn't have that forum sponsor box under my user name.... :laugh:


----------



## g60nw (Mar 30, 2010)

Ok so I rebuilt my charger and just completed a 250 mile break in on it trying to stay off the boost and keeping the car below 4k. Decided to get on it a bit today though and it's showing almost 20lbs of boost on my gauge when you really step on it. My issue is it's now blowing the hose off on the outgoing side of the charger no matter how tight I get the clamp. My question is I only have a 68mm pulley on it which shouldn't be doing that much boost, so is there something I should check or just try to tighten the clamps even more than I did?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> I would answer that with a non-politically correct reply if I didn't have that forum sponsor box under my user name.... :laugh:


PM the reply to me! :laugh::laugh:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

g60nw said:


> Ok so I rebuilt my charger and just completed a 250 mile break in on it trying to stay off the boost and keeping the car below 4k. Decided to get on it a bit today though and it's showing almost 20lbs of boost on my gauge when you really step on it. My issue is it's now blowing the hose off on the outgoing side of the charger no matter how tight I get the clamp. My question is I only have a 68mm pulley on it which shouldn't be doing that much boost, so is there something I should check or just try to tighten the clamps even more than I did?


sounds about right on a fresh rebuild :thumbup: Are you running an RSR?


----------



## g60nw (Mar 30, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> sounds about right on a fresh rebuild :thumbup: Are you running an RSR?


I am running a bbm rsr and that is the hose that keeps popping off, regardless of how tight I can get it. Going to go buy another clamp today and see how two on it does.


----------



## cyclemofo (Aug 4, 2010)

*rough idle*

Hello I have a 1996 glx vr6 5 spd with 70k on the motor an trans . When I got this car was a basket case been spending alot of time an money 2 get it on the rd an keep it on the rd . blew my second coil pack out last week 2\5 missfire so I changed it over 2 the msd setup . Now that the msd coils are on it still has a rough idle . I pulled the wire that goes 2 the mass air flow sens and doesnt change the idle @ all is that norm ?I put a new mass air flow sen on it when I got the car last july . please any ideas will be great .


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cyclemofo said:


> Hello I have a 1996 glx vr6 5 spd with 70k on the motor an trans . When I got this car was a basket case been spending alot of time an money 2 get it on the rd an keep it on the rd . blew my second coil pack out last week 2\5 missfire so I changed it over 2 the msd setup . Now that the msd coils are on it still has a rough idle . I pulled the wire that goes 2 the mass air flow sens and doesnt change the idle @ all is that norm ?I put a new mass air flow sen on it when I got the car last july . please any ideas will be great .


Wrong forum.

Corrado only. Try the mk3 or the 12v vr6 forum


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> normal


Thank you sir! :beer::beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

g60nw said:


> I am running a bbm rsr and that is the hose that keeps popping off, regardless of how tight I can get it. Going to go buy another clamp today and see how two on it does.


What are you running after the RSR? I have a piece of short aluminum tubing then the stock rubber tube into the intercooler, which desperately needs to be changed to all metal piping...


----------



## Pen_vdubGolf (Mar 11, 2004)

running problems: i recentley washed my engine:thumbup: and it now looks great i gave it the normal 1 day of crappy running because i realize electrical things etc get wet... but its been almost a week and once my car gets close to normal temp ... it starts to sputter then starts to shoot black smoke i will then quickly turn the ignition on and off and it will start running fine for another 20 or 30 seconds im curious if this could be the ignition coil or something else? i checked all connections plug wires cap and rotor... it runs smooth until its close to running temp


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Pen_vdubGolf said:


> running problems: i recentley washed my engine:thumbup: and it now looks great i gave it the normal 1 day of crappy running because i realize electrical things etc get wet... but its been almost a week and once my car gets close to normal temp ... it starts to sputter then starts to shoot black smoke i will then quickly turn the ignition on and off and it will start running fine for another 20 or 30 seconds im curious if this could be the ignition coil or something else? i checked all connections plug wires cap and rotor... it runs smooth until its close to running temp


What engine? need more info.

You probably got the distributor wet if it is a dizzy car, pull the cap off and dry it out.

If it is a coilpack car then check for cracks on the coil. Also make sure all the wiring connectors are seated all the way.


----------



## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

Just cause there isn't much pics on this lovely thread.

Kyle, this is for you . . .










And for the other (NOT Kyle) Female Loving Corrado owners . . .

http://www.*****************/data/media/17/m25vp.gif


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

NYCGTM said:


> http://www.*****************/data/media/17/m25vp.gif


thats a big bitch!


----------



## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

Yeah but still a VERY well proportioned big bitch. Like one of those, what did they call them . . . Corrado's


----------



## DerekVW125 (Jun 3, 2007)

*G60 Speedometer Problem*

Hello All,


Car: 1990 VW Corrado G60- completely stock

Issue: After resetting the tripometer yesterday when I fueled up, the odometer and tripometer do not seem to be in sync with each other. At the time the odometer read 70,106. It now reads 70,726. So the hundredths number has been going up (600 over right now). The real mileage should be 70,126. 

What needs to be done to correct this issue...it seems as though just the hundreths number spot is off and should not be going up yet. My ability to fix this issue would depend on the complexity of the solution to the problem. Thank you.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

DerekVW125 said:


> Hello All,
> 
> 
> Car: 1990 VW Corrado G60- completely stock
> ...


Sounds like it is time for a new cluster. or at least speedometer section of it.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

You might even just have a problem with the gears for the odometer... they are usually replaceable with some patience or finding a speedo repair shop. I'm assuming this isn't a digital odometer of course...


----------



## DerekVW125 (Jun 3, 2007)

Thanks for the replies guys.


It is the original factory speedometer and cluster. I'm thinking it might just be the gears inside because I have never had a problem with the odometer before. I'm wondering if it was an issue just because it was sitting for awhile. I have had the car in storage since last November. I just took the car out about 3-4 weeks ago and have put 500 miles on it.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Those little gears can def get worn out after almost 20 years, without a doubt.


----------



## DerekVW125 (Jun 3, 2007)

After doing some research, I found this in the archives:


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4181342


Looks like this might be a similar problem. As mentioned, this problem started after I reset the tripometer when getting gas the other day. Up to this point it was fine and working. This is something that I will give a try and hopefully it will work.


----------



## MrBland (Jul 9, 2010)

Hi all,

I purchased a 1992 VR6 Corrado and the ac doesn't work. I took it to my brother's shop to check the ac and we found that I'm going to need a new condenser. I was wondering if this one from autozone will work on my car, or if anyone has any other suggestions?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...abZ91sha?counter=0&itemIdentifier=114512_0_0_

Also is there anything else I should change while I'm at it?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

MrBland said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I purchased a 1992 VR6 Corrado and the ac doesn't work. I took it to my brother's shop to check the ac and we found that I'm going to need a new condenser. I was wondering if this one from autozone will work on my car, or if anyone has any other suggestions?
> 
> ...



Dryer is a must for replacement.

Ya that one should be fine as long as it is vehicle specific


----------



## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

MrBland said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I purchased a 1992 VR6 Corrado and the ac doesn't work. I took it to my brother's shop to check the ac and we found that I'm going to need a new condenser. I was wondering if this one from autozone will work on my car, or if anyone has any other suggestions?
> 
> ...


You can us the one from the Zone. You may find that the spectra brand will need some bending to make all the lines fit. Check if a Golf part is less at other locations. Its the same thing.


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

I noticed a buzzing noise after I turned my car off a few days ago, since then I have heard this noise anytime I drive the car. It seems to happen once its warm. It sounds like its coming from the drives side of the engine bay by the antifreeze holder. Can some one give me some ideas as to what this could be, or if it is normal?

Thanks for the help.:beer:

93 Vr6 87k


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> I noticed a buzzing noise after I turned my car off a few days ago, since then I have heard this noise anytime I drive the car. It seems to happen once its warm. It sounds like its coming from the drives side of the engine bay by the antifreeze holder. Can some one give me some ideas as to what this could be, or if it is normal?
> 
> Thanks for the help.:beer:
> 
> 93 Vr6 87k


Coolant afterrun pump


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Advice/tips on how to clean these up (preferably something that is quick) ???





















TIA 

Nick


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Advice/tips on how to clean these up (preferably something that is quick) ???
> 
> 
> TIA
> ...


wire wheel and a power drill will clean them up in like 2 seconds


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> wire wheel and a power drill will clean them up in like 2 seconds


Thanks Chad :thumbup:

Already gave them the first clean with a toothbrush and degreaser but getting that rust off is a b!tch (and I don't have patience )

Dremel and this







should/would do???

I''get to work...


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Thanks Chad :thumbup:
> 
> Already gave them the first clean with a toothbrush and degreaser but getting that rust off is a b!tch (and I don't have patience )
> 
> ...


you're gonna be there forever with that dremel bit (and burn up lots of bits), go to your local hardware store and pick up one made for the drill, had I known, I would have thrown some in the box for you  You do have a drill right?










*EDIT FOR 2 SECONDS*


----------



## CorradoFuhrer (Mar 21, 2002)

Allentown is in the house


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> you're gonna be there forever with that dremel bit (and burn up lots of bits), go to your local hardware store and pick up one made for the drill, had I known, I would have thrown some in the box for you  You do have a drill right?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


^^ You were right. Dremel would take forever, so I went and bought some wire wheels for my power drill but...
...Calipers vs Power Drill (and my patience)= 1 - 0 :banghead:


Strange thing is that the carriers are cleaning up nice, but the calipers just won't clean...
I can see the dust from the rust flying off (so something is coming off) but the calipers wont clean to that nice silver colour like the carriers do. I've tried several sizes wire wheels and at several speeds


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Carriers are aluminum, calipers are cast iron.

You probably won't be able to get all the rust off. Get most of it off then throw some navel jelly or another rust converter on it and then paint them :thumbup:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Carriers are aluminum, calipers are cast iron.
> 
> You probably won't be able to get all the rust off. Get most of it off then throw some navel jelly or another rust converter on it and then paint them :thumbup:


^ that, and you should have gotten one like I posted, they werk better


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Carriers are aluminum, calipers are cast iron.
> 
> You probably won't be able to get all the rust off. Get most of it off then throw some navel jelly or another rust converter on it and then paint them :thumbup:


That makes sense then 

Thanks both :thumbup: :beer: :beer:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> ^ that, and you should have gotten one like I posted, they werk better


Meh... you guys need to step up your wire wheels to the real deal











Throw that on an angle grinder. DO WERK!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Meh... you guys need to step up your wire wheels to the real deal
> 
> 
> 
> ...


dems iz nasty


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> dems iz nasty


With that thing I make seam sealer my bitch in no time. :thumbup:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> With that thing I make seam sealer my bitch in no time. :thumbup:


I bet so, how much metal do you remove with that? probably could shave several hundred pounds if you used it all over :laugh:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I bet so, how much metal do you remove with that? probably could shave several hundred pounds if you used it all over :laugh:


Doesn't really do too much to the metal. But you don't want to catch a bracket with it. It will pull the grinder right out of your hand.

This took about 2 hours total


















Had to use the die grinder with a really small bit on it to get the corners and such. Took the most time to get to those areas.


And instead of it just heating up the paint and smearing it everywhere it takes it clean off. Just don't use it on panels that will warp easily


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Coolant afterrun pump


So I am assumong this is normal?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> So I am assumong this is normal?


Yes. It turns on when the car is hot and stays on until it cools down to a certain temp. Helps prevent headwarpage from hotspots


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> So I am assumong this is normal?


Cylindrical item to the right (ds) of the head, feel it to see if it is vibrating when you hear this "buzz"


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Cylindrical item to the right (ds) of the head, feel it to see if it is vibrating when you hear this "buzz"


just your mom vibrating over there :laugh:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> just your mom vibrating over there :laugh:


Here we go


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Yes. It turns on when the car is hot and stays on until it cools down to a certain temp. Helps prevent headwarpage from hotspots


Thanks Bro. You have been great at answering my questions. Here is a beer for you :beer:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Carriers are aluminum, calipers are cast iron.
> 
> You probably won't be able to get all the rust off. Get most of it off then throw some navel jelly or another rust converter on it and then paint them :thumbup:


On the same topic...today I finally finished cleaning the rust from the calipers. The combination of wire wheel on power drill, dremel for the difficult/tight spots, degreaser etc, in the end gave good results. Thanks Chad & Kyle :thumbup:

So, tomorrow I'm applying some rust converter and leaving it to dry to paint them (I have a crazy idea for paint )

My next questions is about rebuilding them:
1) The caliper pistons are a bit rusted, do I have to replace those or will it be ok to proceed with the wire wheel method after I remove them? I couldn't find anyone selling replacements afterall...

2) Besides the boots and slide pin (which I'm ordering new to replace), the dust caps on the bleeder valves and ofcourse hoses,pads,rotors is there anything else I should replace? 










^^ I'm assuming this works even if it says "Lucas" rather than "Girling"?

I'm sure I'll have more questions later


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> On the same topic...today I finally finished cleaning the rust from the calipers. The combination of wire wheel on power drill, dremel for the difficult/tight spots, degreaser etc, in the end gave good results. Thanks Chad & Kyle :thumbup:
> 
> So, tomorrow I'm applying some rust converter and leaving it to dry to paint them (I have a crazy idea for paint )
> 
> ...


Did you get this guy too?









That is the seal and the dustboot.

Don't use a wire wheel on the piston. You can on the inner portion but the bore of it needs to be cleaned up with a scotch brite pad. Be gentle otherwise it will leak around the seal. :thumbup:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Did you get this guy too?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Good thing you pointed that out 



TheBurninator said:


> Don't use a wire wheel on the piston. You can on the inner portion but the bore of it needs to be cleaned up with a scotch brite pad. Be gentle otherwise it will leak around the seal. :thumbup:


Ok, will do, thanks man :beer:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Good thing you pointed that out
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, will do, thanks man :beer:


Also when installing the new seals coat them in brake fluid. Do the same with the outside of the piston so it slides in easier


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Also when installing the new seals coat them in brake fluid. Do the same with the outside of the piston so it slides in easier


^^ Gotcha


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

No sweat Nick :beer:

Cam bearing caps for my G, Bentley says 15ftlbs, do I need a torque wrench? It also gives a numerical sequence for tightening, but no label on #'s for the caps listed in the Bentley. Are the #'s stamped on the caps themselves?

TIA :beer:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> No sweat Nick :beer:
> 
> Cam bearing caps for my G, Bentley says 15ftlbs, do I need a torque wrench? It also gives a numerical sequence for tightening, but no label on #'s for the caps listed in the Bentley. Are the #'s stamped on the caps themselves?
> 
> TIA :beer:


The caps are numbered inside the head. 1-2-3-5
It will look like you are missing a cap since it is a hydrolic head. It is normal.

You need a torque wrench. It is a must that these are all even.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> The caps are numbered inside the head. 1-2-3-5
> It will look like you are missing a cap since it is a hydrolic head. It is normal.
> 
> You need a torque wrench. It is a must that these are all even.


:thumbup::thumbup:..............:beer:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Since I'm in the process of rebuilding my Girling 54's (G60) I would like to get the experts opinion on *s/s braided brake lines * (ie Goodridge etc).

Are they worth the extra $$$? I know they eliminate the "spongy" feel, probably last longer/don't seize and all but they are kinda expensive...Note, I mean this is not a daily Corrado, either one that is used on track days/auto-x etc. Just a weekend car. Either way, I'm thinking of investing on combi rotors if it matters (grooved & drilled) and quality pads. 

Thanks


----------



## morten wb (Aug 11, 2009)

*Adjusting gear-transfer on Corrado G60*

Hi!

I'm new here, and new with the Corrado.
Got a 1991 G60. My problem is that its really hard to find the gears. The gearstick moves all around the place in gear, and even more in neutral. This has caused me to miss my shifts several times.

Is it possible to adjust the gear-transfer? or is it just a bushing that is old and broken?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Since I'm in the process of rebuilding my Girling 54's (G60) I would like to get the experts opinion on *s/s braided brake lines * (ie Goodridge etc).
> 
> Are they worth the extra $$$? I know they eliminate the "spongy" feel, probably last longer/don't seize and all but they are kinda expensive...Note, I mean this is not a daily Corrado, either one that is used on track days/auto-x etc. Just a weekend car. Either way, I'm thinking of investing on combi rotors if it matters (grooved & drilled) and quality pads.
> 
> Thanks


I just had a discussion with a friend about slotted & cross-drilled rotors and he says they are noisy, I say just stick with OEM  Upgraded SS brake lines are nice, but not necessary for the driving habits listed above, I have not done them either and my car stops just fine :thumbup:



morten wb said:


> Hi!
> 
> I'm new here, and new with the Corrado.
> Got a 1991 G60. My problem is that its really hard to find the gears. The gearstick moves all around the place in gear, and even more in neutral. This has caused me to miss my shifts several times.
> ...


Shifter bushings most likely, there are 2 at the base of the shifter mechanism, the best 8 bucks I ever spent :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

Not long after I bought my Corrado, I noticed a chattering noise coming from what sounds like right behind the acces panel for the trans. When I push the clutch in the noise goes away. Its a random chatter. Meaning its not a consistant pattern of knocking. I thought it was the throw out bearing. After posting here and getting some other opinions everyone said the same thing. With that being said I opted to go with a lighter flywheel and a clutch kit. After the install of the new parts I still have the same noise. If i put my hand on the access panel with VW logo on it, I can feel the knocking/chattering. Car shifts, pulls, and drives fine. Any ideas or suggestions? 
Its a VR6 if it is relevant.
TIA


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I just had a discussion with a friend about slotted & cross-drilled rotors and he says they are noisy, I say just stick with OEM  Upgraded SS brake lines are nice, but not necessary for the driving habits listed above, I have not done them either and my car stops just fine :thumbup:


Thanks Chad :thumbup: 

They sure look nice and tempting thought (combi rotors & ss lines)


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

*n00b lol*

1990 g60 corrado

well i just got my g60 and was wondering what can i do to check if there is anything wrong with it. Works fine just want to be sure before i make it my daily driver. also is it expensive to rebuild the charger and what kind of inexpensive mods can i do. 

my experience with cas is good. i could work myself around them just never had a vw.


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

*painting wing*

what prep do i have to do to the wing before painting and what paint did you use thanks


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

tonyg60 said:


> what prep do i have to do to the wing before painting and what paint did you use thanks


Same as painting anything else on the car. If you have to ask then you should probably have someone else do the work for you. :thumbup:


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

tonyg60 said:


> 1990 g60 corrado
> 
> well i just got my g60 and was wondering what can i do to check if there is anything wrong with it. Works fine just want to be sure before i make it my daily driver. also is it expensive to rebuild the charger and what kind of inexpensive mods can i do.
> 
> my experience with cas is good. i could work myself around them just never had a vw.


The best thing to do is to NOT use your new G60 as a daily driver until you have had time to drive it on weekends and learn its quirks and what needs to be repaired. 

As far as diagnosing problems, You could jack the car up, inspect the suspension, check for leaks, change all the fluids. AKA everything you should do when buying a used car from a private seller. Give the car a tune up and replace things before they break. Thats what I would say. 

When I bought my VR6 I immediately replaced the crack pipe, all fuel injectors and all the spark plugs. 

Someone else may tell you different but I tend to believe that instead of rebuilding the Charger yourself, I would buy a new on or send it away to be rebuilt if you have the money. 

I also would not modify anything until you have brought the car up to speed on normal maintenance.

Enjoy your G60.:thumbup:

Question of my own



TheLateJetta said:


> Will a mk2 16v style big bumper lip fit on the corrado?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

TheLateJetta said:


> Someone else may tell you different but I tend to believe that instead of rebuilding the Charger yourself, I would buy a new on or send it away to be rebuilt if you have the money.
> 
> I also would not modify anything until you have brought the car up to speed on normal maintenance.


Two best sentences you wrote in all of that. Perfect advice


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Two best sentences you wrote in all of that. Perfect advice


I concur!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Two best sentences you wrote in all of that. Perfect advice


x3 :thumbup:


----------



## mai-racing (Aug 25, 2010)

Hey just got a corrado last week, throwing a new cat on it tomorrow, and i was thinking about changing the exhaust tip while i was at it. It's got a super-sprint exhaust, it seems pretty nice, but i haven't had much experience with other exhausts in corrados besides a borla set-up. 

So for my question. I was just curious how hard, and or if it's possible to cut off the tip and put on something a bit more attractive, and a little bit smaller. may sound dumb, but i dont want to ruin my exhaust.
Tip in question.


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

Looking for some info about how to do the dremmel trick on the front wipers. It's for my daily which seems to be having Corrado symptoms  Thanks.

______________________________________________


----------



## drkreign (Sep 2, 2005)

I just lucked into a O2M transmission (great having a dad that works for VW  ) I was wondering what exactly would it take to mount it to my 1990 G60?

Things I know:
-Have to move the rear mount back 1/4"-1/2"
-Also need to raise the mount up some to pass the CV on the drivers side
-Got to get the motor mount sdezego has so kindly created

Things I need help with:
-Can I use my G60 clutch/FW? Or do I need to order a O2M setup?
-How do I get the speedo to work (I have the cable operated version) is there any way to still use the cable operated version (simplicity)
-Where do I get the correct axels? Do I need custom or can I use the O2M ones?

If there is anything else I might need to know, please hook a brotha up


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

drkreign said:


> I just lucked into a O2M transmission (great having a dad that works for VW  ) I was wondering what exactly would it take to mount it to my 1990 G60?
> 
> Things I know:
> -Have to move the rear mount back 1/4"-1/2"
> ...


O2M axles, shortened.

O2M clutch/flywheel/PP

make sure you get both the front mount and the side mount from Shawn. You will need them both to run that trans.

Not sure about the speedo but I believe you need to use a VSS


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

mai-racing said:


> tip and put on something a bit more attractive, and a little bit smaller. may sound dumb, but i dont want to ruin my exhaust.
> Tip in question.


Cut it off and weld whatever you want on there...



PrjktRado1 said:


> Looking for some info about how to do the dremmel trick on the front wipers. It's for my daily which seems to be having Corrado symptoms  Thanks.
> 
> ______________________________________________


There is a pic somewhere and it has been awhile since I did mine, but you can clearly see where the interference is, just grind that area down until the wiper arm has more angle by the pin. Just be careful on the visible side as to not eat thru it :thumbup:

Herez one...










Found easily on Google 

http://www.vwhowto.com/vwhowto/guide-view.cfm/id/85/


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Cut it off and weld whatever you want on there...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Forgot all about vwhowto, handy site. That was one of the pics I was thinking of. :thumbup:

_____________________________________


----------



## drkreign (Sep 2, 2005)

TheBurninator said:


> O2M axles, shortened.
> 
> O2M clutch/flywheel/PP
> 
> ...


Ok, sweet, didn't know I needed the front mount.

About the axles, is it ok to use VR6 axles on the 4 cyl O2M? 
Also for shortening them do I just cut the O2M in half, bolt them up and cut the overlap, and then weld them together? Will this be strong enough, or should I get actual axles made?

With the VSS setup is there a write up on how to convert cable to VSS?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

drkreign said:


> Ok, sweet, didn't know I needed the front mount.
> 
> About the axles, is it ok to use VR6 axles on the 4 cyl O2M?
> Also for shortening them do I just cut the O2M in half, bolt them up and cut the overlap, and then weld them together? Will this be strong enough, or should I get actual axles made?
> ...


I would have a set made, or modified. Don't do it yourself.

If you do decide to do it your self then you would cut the axels to length and use a piece of tubing that goes over both halves almost press fit tight and weld them together that way. But make sure you have them balanced afterward.


----------



## G60Scuzz (Nov 14, 2003)

Got some updates for ya on the power windows. I have been waiting for my brother to cut down the 4 foot weeds in the back yard the doors were engulfed in and I had some time today to take a look. Rolling the window down the motor will consistently draw anywhere from 4 - 6 amps and then 8 spiking to sometimes 12 amps rolling the window up. This is with a power supply putting out 10volts under load bottoming out at 9 and spiking at 11. The power supply I used is rated for 20A continuous current so issues there.

If you're saying to yourself "Thats a low voltage, cars use 12 - 15 volts." you are quite right. This creates a safety net current draw wise because as the voltage decreases the current draw required to obtain the work will increase. So when looking at one attached to an actual battery the current draw should be less as the voltage increases. An example of this in practice would be if you had a car with a bad battery. Since the voltage of a dead battery is around 11.5 (any less there would for sure be irreparable damage to the battery. I.e. flatten a battery to less than 6 volts and charging it fully will only get back about 70% of your battery's life, ever.) this means that these numbers are good in that type of situation.

To further experiment I had a helper pinch the glass with his hands while the window was going up to really load the motor down and the current draw spiked at 16amps. (window was still going up around 1.5 inches per second) 

What gauge wire was the supply to the control module?
I will check in the Bentley later if no one knows off hand but UPS is bringing me a really sweet present today so I'll be messing with that for a while first  If I remember correctly there is a 30A circuit breaker for the power windows, if that's any indicator of a decent sized wire then I think it would be a safe go for running both at the same time on the same circuit. Maybe the lower overhead on the breaker would come in handy if someone stuck their fingers, arm, c*ck, etc in there.


----------



## G60Scuzz (Nov 14, 2003)

After checking the Bentley the correct factory wire gauge size is 10AWG, and the breaker is 20 amps so it sounds like this may not work after all and using a mains power designed for 30Amps would be more correct.


















So in the event of a low battery the breaker will most likely trip, or even worse it will just do it randomly.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

G60Scuzz said:


> After checking the Bentley the correct factory wire gauge size is 10AWG, and the breaker is 20 amps so it sounds like this may not work after all and using a mains power designed for 30Amps would be more correct.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


But 10 AWG should be plenty for a 30a circuit... Funny you posted, cause I was just tinking about this again today


----------



## G60Scuzz (Nov 14, 2003)

Yeah and it's not like its going to be 30 continuous either, right around 20 continuous I imagine, so upgrading the breaker is really all you'd need to do.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

G60Scuzz said:


> Yeah and it's not like its going to be 30 continuous either, right around 20 continuous I imagine, so upgrading the breaker is really all you'd need to do.


:thumbup::thumbup:

Will start looking to source the harness & hardware :beer:

Are you planning to do the mod as well?


----------



## G60Scuzz (Nov 14, 2003)

Yep except that will be a feature integrated in with the rest of the Body ECU. I plan on doing my own BCU with built in alarm, clima tronic using a passat heaterbox, DVR triggers and controls for the onboard cameras along with a long list of other things.

I have been experimenting with FETs alot lately and I thought up this power window controller using those to adjust the speed by controlling the current. Imagine a ramp up in window speed the longer you hold the button. It would be nice to have the precision placement control because at least on my car sometimes I kinda have to bounce back and forth on the switch to get the window position I want while driving. So ramping up the speed of the window along with maybe even a ramp-down when it gets near the bottom so there isn't a "thud" every time. Maybe the regulators would last longer? lol

The plan for the BCU is to have it interface with a display that takes place of the heater controls in the dash along with the cluster. (which is also going to be fully digital from scratch) I haven't worked out the cosmetic details of the displays yet as my main goal is to get the car back to the house first but it needs to be in good taste and appear as if it were a factory option. (at least when turned off)


----------



## excreations (Jul 31, 2007)

I have some pretty major rubbing issues in the rear of my corrado. I have the coils stiffness all the way up, but even over little bums i bottom out. I've been very hesitant about rolling my fenders, in fear of rust, and paint damage. Don't get me wrong my paints not immaculate, but i would love to get the car painted down the road, and would like to avoid any rust i can.

If i riase my car up a notch or two in the rear, and lower it a bit in the front I should be good, or am i better off biting the bullet and rolling my fenders? On to the pictures.

You can see it's starting to tear my tires up.








I know my wheels are dirty, and i have the caps.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

G60Scuzz said:


> .


:thumbup::thumbup:

Is there another thread I should be watching for all of this? opcorn:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

excreations said:


> biting the bullet and rolling my fenders


^ this...


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## Wirbelsturm.VW (Sep 24, 2007)

excreations said:


> I have some pretty major rubbing issues in the rear of my corrado. I have the coils stiffness all the way up, but even over little bums i bottom out. I've been very hesitant about rolling my fenders, in fear of rust, and paint damage. Don't get me wrong my paints not immaculate, but i would love to get the car painted down the road, and would like to avoid any rust i can.



I've never been a fan of doing this just because i hate seeing a corrado getting bashed in and its such a risky process, but if you NEED to..as long as you heat them up a lot (ie: heat gun) and are gentle, it shouldn't go terrible. If you were to roll them, what method were you thinking?

btw are you running spacers in the rear? :what:

and by the way if you keep rubbing like that, that will become more of a rust issue than having moderately rolled fenders


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## excreations (Jul 31, 2007)

Wirbelsturm.VW said:


> I've never been a fan of doing this just because i hate seeing a corrado getting bashed in and its such a risky process, but if you NEED to..as long as you heat them up a lot (ie: heat gun) and are gentle, it shouldn't go terrible. If you were to roll them, what method were you thinking?
> 
> btw are you running spacers in the rear? :what:
> 
> and by the way if you keep rubbing like that, that will become more of a rust issue than having moderately rolled fenders


I raised the rear up a little bit today, and also stiffened up the coils a bit, it rides a lot nicer now. No spacers, there not the 91 wheels, there BBS RZ's, there not super nice but for now they get the job done. I was thinking about painting them though. I want to do a few more adjustments tomorrow and than i'll take some more pictures of the car.

I still want to consider rolling the fenders, but i might wait till i get a nicer set of wheels.


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## oatcorrado (May 9, 2008)

1990 g60 5 speed
i need the plastic piece that attaches to the end of the speedo cable and goes into the trans to run the speedo, ive tried searching all over the internet and cant find it. If someone could help me out with this it would be appreciated


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## pug_nasty (Jun 17, 2009)

Hey guys I have a 90 g60 and one of my shift cables broke. Im going to go ahead and replace both, but I can only find the vr6 cables. I hear these can be used and are much stronger. My question is what do i need to swap from the g60 style cable to the vr cable. Thx a lot guys.


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## The Dubbernaut (Feb 1, 2010)

*keep it original*

im looking to keep my 90 corrado all original and there are some aftermarket parts put on the car by the previous owner. im going to be back in the states in 2012 and looking to pick up parts and store them at my parents house while im gone. is there any places that have original chip applications? Im learning about the internal workings of the engine and always wanting to learn as much as i can about the corrado so any info helps. i have expirence with a lot of mechanical workings and hours of scraped knuckles...dont know how to put a label on my level of tech? i work on F18's for the Marines so i have a good understanding of electronics, and thats where my other question comes in. i have problems with my exhaust spitting black smoke, usually at higher RPM's during shifting, and ive heard that there are tiny resistors in the ECU that could be problematic? the chip thats in the ECU is a "techtonics?"... i have a brand new cat/exhaust from 07 the pistons have good compression (minus a little regular wear) and new 02 censor from 08. this was done before i left the states in 08 and miles on the car is 130k with roughly 1400 miles on the parts listed above. i have new valve retainers/springs from BBM that i would like to put in after i get home and tips on top quality piston sets would be appreciated too!

thanks all
Jake


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## G60Scuzz (Nov 14, 2003)

Sr. Karmann said:


> :thumbup::thumbup:
> 
> Is there another thread I should be watching for all of this? opcorn:


Yep once I the car back here the festivities will start. I have been working on a cluster for the van for sometime which was going to be a first real test of some of the hardware that will eventually be designed into the Corrado.

The Corrado stuff right now is in it's early planning stages so I haven't created any threads on it. Maybe it wouldn't hurt to start collecting ideas.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

G60Scuzz said:


> Maybe it wouldn't hurt to start collecting ideas.


replace *everything* :banghead:


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## wed3k (Feb 22, 2010)

so i got an alignment and one of the tires still look cambered in. I checked the specs and both are back into stock. ya reckon maybe one of the fenders was replaced with a vr6 one? i know they have that whole offset deal and "plus suspension"

i know that side of the car has been repainted but i just got the entire car repainted anyways.

took this at the euro carnival meet yesterday.


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## VR6Ewing (Feb 10, 2010)

going with a new oxygen sensor... any brands anyone might advise to get? i heard the bosch ones are faulty but i have never had a problem with anything bosch


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

VR6Ewing said:


> going with a new oxygen sensor... any brands anyone might advise to get? i heard the bosch ones are faulty but i have never had a problem with anything bosch


I just did the Ford Mustang 5.0 mod, Bosch for $40... I have 2 extra harness pigtails if ur interested


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Any of you guys have ETKA available to confirm if part number 037133432 is the correct idle screw for the G60?


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## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

*Hid help*

just wanted to know if hid kits are plug and play or do i have to wire it diffrently so they work. just wanted to know before i buy them 

thanks


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## corrado_kid18 (Apr 25, 2008)

*199? corrado*

okay , so i just bought a corrado loaded with BBM goodies , lysholm charger and everything. the car has a BBM fuel rail and yellow top injectors ( praying they arent the 578cc's !! ). 

SO .. moving on , the little orange sponge looking filter thing you get when you buy the kit is has SOAKED in oil and it ripped in half... what the hell was the purpose of that because if it just to soak up oil then thats dumb cause its just drips. it connect at the end of the sensor of the little black box on top of the valve cover. i have it plugged after the sensor right now and wondering if thats ok ? cause now my other problem is when i go for a drive and stop .. i pop the hood and theres oil sprays all over the place ! i look down and the dip stick isnt pushed down all the way ?! i did it a few more times and it still pops out and sprays oil ... any kind of help ? mechanic skills .. im good with tools and directions if they are clear lol. sorry i dont know the names of some of these parts.


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## corrado_kid18 (Apr 25, 2008)

OH yeah ! the car runs fine , cold .. holds idle and all. but i smell gas , it has no leaks or anything. i know it has bigger injectors and fuel rail for sure , they are yellow top injectors. now my question is .. if i up the pulley size to 68mm and push 16psi will that air flow compensate for how much fuel the car is getting ? it runs one sided according to air/fuel gauge .. maybe this will even it out ?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Any of you guys have ETKA available to confirm if part number 037133432 is the correct idle screw for the G60?


Yep :thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Yep :thumbup:


:beer:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

corrado_kid18 said:


> okay , so i just bought a corrado loaded with BBM goodies , lysholm charger and everything. the car has a BBM fuel rail and yellow top injectors ( praying they arent the 578cc's !! ).
> 
> SO .. moving on , the little orange sponge looking filter thing you get when you buy the kit is has SOAKED in oil and it ripped in half... what the hell was the purpose of that because if it just to soak up oil then thats dumb cause its just drips. it connect at the end of the sensor of the little black box on top of the valve cover. i have it plugged after the sensor right now and wondering if thats ok ? cause now my other problem is when i go for a drive and stop .. i pop the hood and theres oil sprays all over the place ! i look down and the dip stick isnt pushed down all the way ?! i did it a few more times and it still pops out and sprays oil ... any kind of help ? mechanic skills .. im good with tools and directions if they are clear lol. sorry i dont know the names of some of these parts.





corrado_kid18 said:


> OH yeah ! the car runs fine , cold .. holds idle and all. but i smell gas , it has no leaks or anything. i know it has bigger injectors and fuel rail for sure , they are yellow top injectors. now my question is .. if i up the pulley size to 68mm and push 16psi will that air flow compensate for how much fuel the car is getting ? it runs one sided according to air/fuel gauge .. maybe this will even it out ?


Yellow filter sounds like an oil breather filter, this needs to vent to a catch can, which would explain if you blocked this, the dipstick popping out under pressure, due to the block not being able to vent. 

Fuel smell, may be the fuel tank vent if the carbon canister was deleted, more info and pics would help...


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Couple questions for the experts... You guys are familiar with my car 

1. Idle issue, More pronounced after STG mods... After warmup, when coming off the throttle, she will dip to around 250 rpm's and come right bak up, if I have the A/C on, she will most likely die... Just cleaned the ISV & Co-Pot, even took off the small breather filter and tried that :thumbdown: Switched coolant sensors to no avail... Brand spankin new o2 and reset my ECu today. will test Co-Pot resistance tomorrow. Do you think having a non-rigid or lengthy hose on my ISV would supplement these issues? Any known alternatives to the ISV? And it is leaky :banghead:

2. Serious battery draw from A/C, if I run the car with the A/C on and shut her down, the battery has a hard time cranking back over. I am going to have the battery tested this week as it has been charged and jumped about 1000 times, probly more since I've had it. Noticed lights flickering with A/C on yesterday in the DQ drivethru...


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## kobrakai176 (Feb 20, 2007)

My buddys 1992
VR6 Corrado
84k on engine
2.5 tt stainless steel exaust
poly control arm bushings
bfi stage 1 mounts
new axels
bilstien sports with fk springs
new sachs clutch kit
new alum crack pipe
new thermostat housing
tt chip
lw pully
short throw shifter



Well recently the transmission blew the diff shattered. So he replaced the transmission and when the mechanic took the transmission out all the coolant pissed out as well, (not sure if this is normal) and also now that the new transmission is in it does not have fifth gear, (now when i say it does not have fifth gear it does not go into fifth and grind there is literaly no gear it just slides over to third). The linkage was also replaced with the transmission. Any ideas? Greatly Appreciated.


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Couple questions for the experts... You guys are familiar with my car
> 
> 1. Idle issue, More pronounced after STG mods... After warmup, when coming off the throttle, she will dip to around 250 rpm's and come right bak up, if I have the A/C on, she will most likely die... Just cleaned the ISV & Co-Pot, even took off the small breather filter and tried that :thumbdown: Switched coolant sensors to no avail... Brand spankin new o2 and reset my ECu today. will test Co-Pot resistance tomorrow. Do you think having a non-rigid or lengthy hose on my ISV would supplement these issues? Any known alternatives to the ISV? And it is leaky :banghead:
> 
> 2. Serious battery draw from A/C, if I run the car with the A/C on and shut her down, the battery has a hard time cranking back over. I am going to have the battery tested this week as it has been charged and jumped about 1000 times, probly more since I've had it. Noticed lights flickering with A/C on yesterday in the DQ drivethru...


I had a similar issue with the "throttle dip" you are describing, but it went away after I replaced the ISV (found one on ebay new in box fo cheap) and the knock sensor. The shielding on the knock sensor was gone and the damper on it was all cracked and dry rotted.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Couple questions for the experts... You guys are familiar with my car
> 
> 1. Idle issue, More pronounced after STG mods... After warmup, when coming off the throttle, she will dip to around 250 rpm's and come right bak up, if I have the A/C on, she will most likely die... Just cleaned the ISV & Co-Pot, even took off the small breather filter and tried that :thumbdown: Switched coolant sensors to no avail... Brand spankin new o2 and reset my ECu today. will test Co-Pot resistance tomorrow. Do you think having a non-rigid or lengthy hose on my ISV would supplement these issues? Any known alternatives to the ISV? And it is leaky :banghead:
> 
> ...


I shouldn't be answering this, since I'm no expert  but Chad some sort of vacuum leak(s) may cause that...and since you've "hide" your ISV (by extending it) I'd say check there  
Does it also have idle issues when u start it from cold???

Bad idle could mean a few things:
- idle screw on TB
-vac. leaks (had one recently to the hose that attaches the ISV to the inlet manifold)
-leaky/sticky ISV
-blue cts
-missing o-ring
-plugs/distributor/cap
-timing???
-1m ecu vac. line???

I HATE G60's :sly: :laugh:


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> I HATE G60's :sly: :laugh:


Sounds like you are learning... Time for a VR6 soon


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Sounds like you are learning... Time for a VR6 soon


^^NEVAR!!!...ok, maybe some day when I grow old 

Back to 16V though I'd really consider (an "all-motor" build N/A 16V on ITB's and standalone to kick some vtec a$S around here  )


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## ramason (Jul 6, 2005)

*Wheel Knowledge*

Hello everyone, I have done some searching and still haven't been able to track this down, but I am wondering what the ET for the 1990 VW G60 is. I will keep searching the interwebz but any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

would a 15×6.5 OFFSET: +21 or SIZE: 15×6.5 OFFSET: +19 P.C.D: 4×114 be able to fit?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

ramason said:


> Hello everyone, I have done some searching and still haven't been able to track this down, but I am wondering what the ET for the 1990 VW G60 is. I will keep searching the interwebz but any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> would a 15×6.5 OFFSET: +21 or SIZE: 15×6.5 OFFSET: +19 P.C.D: 4×114 be able to fit?


Wrong bolt pattern

you need 4x100

And stock g60 wheels are 15x6 ET 35 :thumbup:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> I had a similar issue with the "throttle dip" you are describing, but it went away after I replaced the ISV (found one on ebay new in box fo cheap) and the knock sensor. The shielding on the knock sensor was gone and the damper on it was all cracked and dry rotted.


Newish knock sensor, but I'm really leaning toward ISV, but it is opening properly... I am going to do some diagnostics this weekend with a fellow G60 owner pro 



RedYellowWhite said:


> I shouldn't be answering this, since I'm no expert  but Chad some sort of vacuum leak(s) may cause that...and since you've "hide" your ISV (by extending it) I'd say check there
> Does it also have idle issues when u start it from cold???
> 
> Bad idle could mean a few things:
> ...


No vac leaks, 1m ECU vac line(clued you in in that remember ) read the post again Nick, ex. coolant sensor ect... :laugh: missing o-ring to what :what:.......:laugh:............:beer:



TheBurninator said:


> Sounds like you are learning... Time for a *standalone* soon


fixed


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## drkreign (Sep 2, 2005)

I know it has been asked a million times, but I want to make sure I'm 100% right. On a G60 to VR6 swap can I use my cross members from the G60? Also, since I'm swapping the trans out for a VR6 can I use the G60's axles or do I need to use particular axles?


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## trek--morin (Oct 1, 2007)

Is there a fix for those hood pins, actually the retainers tied to the release cable...Cause now i have one side that's moving a bit even with the hood fully closed.

Also is it normal that i have some loose on that metal wire, it seem really easy to get stuck on the rad or wtv along its path in front.



Thanks guys!


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

drkreign said:


> I know it has been asked a million times, but I want to make sure I'm 100% right. On a G60 to VR6 swap can I use my cross members from the G60? Also, since I'm swapping the trans out for a VR6 can I use the G60's axles or do I need to use particular axles?


You need to use VR6 front subframe or a custom mount and bracket.

Axles depend on suspension on the car not transmission.


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## RowBoatsVdubs (Mar 18, 2008)

also on a g60 car swapped to VR6...

are the front wheels/tires going to poke or just rub more on the fenders? if so how much farther do the vr fenders stick out than the g60's? 

hood options. i know the g60 hood is a little different or whatever and the vr doesnt fit under it soooo... what are my options? can i clearance the hood enough when i get it to clear the engine or am i just doomed to find a vr hood?


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## redrocket18 (Nov 5, 2009)

Okay so i have heard yes and no to my question so i will put it on here to ask an expert.
Will just the hub not the entire spindle of of a 1998 passat work on a slc corrado spindle. Im trying to make my car 5x112 bolt pattern. 
Hope you guys can help. 
PM me your answers please thanks.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Newish knock sensor, but I'm really leaning toward ISV, but it is opening properly... I am going to do some diagnostics this weekend with a fellow G60 owner pro
> 
> 
> No vac leaks, 1m ECU vac line(clued you in in that remember ) read the post again Nick, ex. coolant sensor ect... :laugh: missing o-ring to what :what:.......:laugh:............:beer:
> ...


Chad, I first said that it sounds like an ISV problem...



RedYellowWhite said:


> I shouldn't be answering this, since I'm no expert  but Chad some sort of vacuum leak(s) may cause that...and since you've "hide" your ISV (by extending it) I'd say check there
> Does it also have idle issues when u start it from cold???



The other list was not necessarily pointed to your problem, I was just stating things that cause idle issues on our stupid engines...I read ok 


So, have you checked the co-potentiometer resistance yet? Curious to what ohms is set...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RowBoatsVdubs said:


> also on a g60 car swapped to VR6...
> 
> are the front wheels/tires going to poke or just rub more on the fenders? if so how much farther do the vr fenders stick out than the g60's?
> 
> hood options. i know the g60 hood is a little different or whatever and the vr doesnt fit under it soooo... what are my options? can i clearance the hood enough when i get it to clear the engine or am i just doomed to find a vr hood?


Are you swapping to VR6 suspension too then? Rubbing will depending on how low you are, what tire size, and what wheels you run. There is 1cm of difference on each side. 

Hood you can clearance the support brace on the hood, use a custom mount on the rear or hockey pucks and cut them down just a touch.



redrocket18 said:


> Okay so i have heard yes and no to my question so i will put it on here to ask an expert.
> Will just the hub not the entire spindle of of a 1998 passat work on a slc corrado spindle. Im trying to make my car 5x112 bolt pattern.
> Hope you guys can help.
> PM me your answers please thanks.


No idea. I suggest getting both hubs and wheel bearing sets and measuring them.


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## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

*e brake problem HELP*

Hey I am having problems with my e brake I took everything apart inside and the cables were not adjusted so I adjusted them but still no e brake. So idk what else to do I know to follow the wire underneath the car but not sure what to look for cause the cable does not look broken. Should I take the wheel of and see if the cable is not connected properly please help :banghead:


Thanks a lot


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

tonyg60 said:


> Hey I am having problems with my e brake I took everything apart inside and the cables were not adjusted so I adjusted them but still no e brake. So idk what else to do I know to follow the wire underneath the car but not sure what to look for cause the cable does not look broken. Should I take the wheel of and see if the cable is not connected properly please help :banghead:
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot


Rear calipers are probably seized... time for a Mk4 upgrade kit from ECS!


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## RowBoatsVdubs (Mar 18, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Are you swapping to VR6 suspension too then? Rubbing will depending on how low you are, what tire size, and what wheels you run. There is 1cm of difference on each side.
> 
> Hood you can clearance the support brace on the hood, use a custom mount on the rear or hockey pucks and cut them down just a touch.


i'm using 95 jetta glx k-frame and suspension/brakes 


your talking about the rear passengerside mount? yeah i've heard about that how much can you cut it down without worrying about your oil level or something like that?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RowBoatsVdubs said:


> i'm using 95 jetta glx k-frame and suspension/brakes
> 
> 
> your talking about the rear passengerside mount? yeah i've heard about that how much can you cut it down without worrying about your oil level or something like that?


I had no problems on plus suspension and G60 fenders on stock speedlines. Car was dumped so it was going to rub a bit no matter what.


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## RowBoatsVdubs (Mar 18, 2008)

sweet. thanks guy! :beer::beer:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Chad, I first said that it sounds like an ISV problem...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Naw man itz cool, wuz just bustin ur ballz :laugh:

Gonna look into several things this weekend, co-pot is on the list and will letcha know what it comes in at and what I will end up setting it at, can't really set it the right way without some sort of gas analyzing tool... We'll see... I am just positive I don't have any leaks and I've gone thru a bunch of stuff. I figured I will relocate my ISV back to it's original location just to check whether moving it, the hose going to it is collapsing under vacuum. Supposed to get a couple parts in the mail tomorrow


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Gentlemen (and I use that term loosely  )

The plastic piece that attaches to the circled area below on my throttle body has disintegrated. If you have ETKA, can you see if this is a separately available part? I haven't noticed if other VW 1.8 engines use the same setup (so I could snag one off a different car). Thanks. Now back to my beer. :beer:


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## G60Scuzz (Nov 14, 2003)

Sr. Karmann said:


> replace *everything* :banghead:


Totally agree :beer:

The thing I realize is, you gotta replace everything at once or you will be on a seemingly endless loop of the 1st thing you replaced breaking again when you're not even close to replacing the last thing. This creates the swirl needed for the "money pit equation" to be applicable to this car, and it be a blackhole of sorts.


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## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

kobrakai176 said:


> My buddys 1992
> VR6 Corrado
> 84k on engine
> 2.5 tt stainless steel exaust
> ...


I am by no means an expert but I just had my trans out and all the coolant came out of the top trans bolt hole. I am told this is from using the wrong bolt. The bolt that was used was too long and punctured the block into the coolant passage. My mechanic put some kind of thread seal on it and it hasnt leaked yet. As for the 5th gear check the linkage adjustments. I had to toy with mine to get it just right.


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## s74n70n (Dec 11, 2009)

my 100th post!!!!!:laugh:


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## MrBland (Jul 9, 2010)

My friend and I are trying to remove the front bumper cover and cannot figure it out for the love of god. Any help? I'm trying to get to my condenser and receiver/drier.


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## MrBland (Jul 9, 2010)

Oh, nevermind. Finally did some searching around and discovered that you have to take the entire bumper assembly off if you want to take the skin off, correct? :banghead:


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Gentlemen (and I use that term loosely  )
> 
> The plastic piece that attaches to the circled area below on my throttle body has disintegrated. If you have ETKA, can you see if this is a separately available part? I haven't noticed if other VW 1.8 engines use the same setup (so I could snag one off a different car). Thanks. Now back to my beer. :beer:


anyone on this?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> anyone on this?


I know you can use one off of another 8v or 16v tbody. Etka doesn't show a separate part at all


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> I know you can use one off of another 8v or 16v tbody. Etka doesn't show a separate part at all


and so the search begins... thanks man. :thumbup:

This looks like a match... same as a 92 Jetta 1.8? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200481419726


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

2 questions for the experts.
Both referring to a Late 91 G60 with auto trans.


1) Which weight oil should I use. Dealership said if I took it there they'd give me 15 40W, but the service desk mentioned that alot of guys put 20 50W (he used to own a G60). Does it matter, is there any benefit of using 20 50W over 15 40W?

2) Are there any AC refill kits that will work fine with the Rado AC system, or in typical VAG style did they do things unique so that I'm better off going to a service shop? (My Rado has been converted over to R134 already.)

Thanks.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> and so the search begins... thanks man. :thumbup:
> 
> This looks like a match... same as a 92 Jetta 1.8? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200481419726


That should work. If not let me know I will go digging through my parts bin for you.



cyberstasi said:


> 2 questions for the experts.
> Both referring to a Late 91 G60 with auto trans.
> 
> 
> ...


use 20/50 especially in warmer months

You should be able to use a normal AC refill kit if you have already converter your car.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> and so the search begins... thanks man. :thumbup:
> 
> This looks like a match... same as a 92 Jetta 1.8? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200481419726


Jared, I used a zip tie on mine, MacGreuber stylz, I kno... May get you thru til you get one tho :thumbup: I took one from a 90 G in the yard and had i all lookin proper, painted and all, well it didn't have the little tab to pull the DV closed :banghead: Just make sure the one you get does :beer:


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Spark Plugs: 
A "colder" spark plug means that its better suited for a warm climate or it doesn't have anything to do with the climate - just engine temps 

Reason I'm asking this is because I may get some new ones for my G60 and wondering if I should get Bosch W6DPO or W5DPO...

Thanks


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

thanks for the help on the throttle body stuff guys :thumbup:

Colder spark plugs has nothing to do with outside temps. Here's some info I "borrowed" from another site:

Some cars require a hot plug. This type of plug is designed with a ceramic insert that has a smaller contact area with the metal part of the plug. This reduces the heat transfer from the ceramic, making it run hotter and thus burn away more deposits. Cold plugs are designed with more contact area, so they run cooler. 


The difference between a "hot" and a "cold" spark plug is in the shape of the ceramic tip.
The carmaker will select the right temperature plug for each car. Some cars with high-performance engines naturally generate more heat, so they need colder plugs. If the spark plug gets too hot, it could ignite the fuel before the spark fires; so it is important to stick with the right type of plug for your car.


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJaHHC95OPc&feature=player_embedded#!


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

Does somebody have an exploded view from ETKA of the door components and how they are arranged? I'm pretty sure thats the only I'm worried about when putting my car back together.


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

iAco said:


> Does somebody have an exploded view from ETKA of the door components and how they are arranged? I'm pretty sure thats the only I'm worried about when putting my car back together.


I have this... its not from ETKA, but from the factory service manual. Hope this helps.
Click the pic for a larger size.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

iAco said:


> Does somebody have an exploded view from ETKA of the door components and how they are arranged? I'm pretty sure thats the only I'm worried about when putting my car back together.


What year is your car nick? I will look it up for you


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

TheBurninator said:


> What year is your car nick? I will look it up for you


93 with the plus interior, Thanks Kyle


----------



## alexgti25 (Sep 7, 2008)

Hello folks, well im about to pick up a 1990 vw corrado g60 and when i told the techs here at my vw dealer ship they all shook their heads. now is there a reason for that? im having second thoughts on purchasing the car. im getting a real good deal on it but just want to know what i should be expecting from the G60 corrado. they said electrical problem but what kind?????? i just figured the motor was rebuilt and has a garret turbo. all else fails then ill swap out the g60 but what can i swap in there??? sorry imafkingnewb to corrados. ive had 4 mk3 gti's and a mk3 jetta, 67 beetke, 2002 jetta and a 90 cabrio. im not new to vw's so please help


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

If you've done work on all those other VW's there's nothiing to be scared of. C's are a little more challenging to live with but also more rewarding when you get it right.

I'd be a little nervous about the mods done by the previous owner if they included a turbo, as you never know how good the install was and if it was done right.

You could always get the engine back to stock, put in a VR, or a 1.8T.


----------



## alexgti25 (Sep 7, 2008)

well im not a tech at the dealer SO I DONT KNOW ABOUT THE CHALLENGES but i do know that i might be putting it back to stock before i run it. i dont want to deal with the turbo set up till its running


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

alexgti25 said:


> well im not a tech at the dealer SO I DONT KNOW ABOUT THE CHALLENGES but i do know that i might be putting it back to stock before i run it. i dont want to deal with the turbo set up till its running


The challenges are just little things, things that require patience. If you are easily frustrated and lack patience, the Corrado is not for you. :thumbup:


----------



## CorradoFuhrer (Mar 21, 2002)

Degrease it daily


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

You could sell it to McDonald's to use in a TV ad: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8BCkzFOPxI


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

iAco said:


> 93 with the plus interior, Thanks Kyle


sorry I am slacking nick. haven't been home to grab my computer with etka on it.


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

TheBurninator said:


> sorry I am slacking nick. haven't been home to grab my computer with etka on it.


Don't worry. I'm actually slacking as well. I'm to afraid to work on the car in fear of scuffing up the new paint.


----------



## ratatat (Nov 28, 2008)

I am looking at replacing my waterpump. But when I go to ECS tuning or Germanautoparts all I see is the water pump gasket listed for a Corrado G60. I was looking though and the one for the Mark II 8v should work on my engine? Thanks for anyone with some insight. :beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

ratatat said:


> I am looking at replacing my waterpump. But when I go to ECS tuning or Germanautoparts all I see is the water pump gasket listed for a Corrado G60. I was looking though and the one for the Mark II 8v should work on my engine? Thanks for anyone with some insight. :beer:


Should be the same, but here... http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Cooling/163/1

*QUESTION... How are you guys removing the spoiler if the nut in plastic housing is spinning?* I've tried all kinds of stuff on similar apps, i.e. radneck & silencer box, but ended up destroying the pieces... :banghead:


----------



## ratatat (Nov 28, 2008)

Thanks Sr. Karmann. Goodluck with that spoiler I know mine has the same issue.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

ratatat said:


> Thanks Sr. Karmann. Goodluck with that spoiler I know mine has the same issue.


no problem, and thanks :thumbup:


----------



## reborndub (Jun 18, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Should be the same, but here... http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Cooling/163/1
> 
> *QUESTION... How are you guys removing the spoiler if the nut in plastic housing is spinning?* I've tried all kinds of stuff on similar apps, i.e. radneck & silencer box, but ended up destroying the pieces... :banghead:


depending on access, try and re-encapsulate the nut back in jb weld,let it sit overnite.
did this on a dirtbike airbox and worked great. had to make it worse to make it better.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

reborndub said:


> depending on access, try and re-encapsulate the nut back in jb weld,let it sit overnite.
> did this on a dirtbike airbox and worked great. had to make it worse to make it better.


Might have to give that a shot :thumbup:


----------



## [email protected]sport (Sep 24, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> *QUESTION... How are you guys removing the spoiler if the nut in plastic housing is spinning?* I've tried all kinds of stuff on similar apps, i.e. radneck & silencer box, but ended up destroying the pieces... :banghead:


Are you trying to remove the cable housing or the spoiler itself?


----------



## pedrosan (Feb 6, 2005)

So i only drive my rado a few times a week right now, trying to keep the miles down

The past 2 times i start the car while cold, i get the flashing oil light. No buzzer, and the light only stays on for about 5 seconds. Didnt ever used to do this to me. Already checked the obvious, oil level ok, sensors on housing all plugged in. Any insight into my idiot light? I am running 20w50c oil. Good mann filter. Could it be just from sitting longer than it usually does, taking longer to pump up pressure?
Also, the engine sounds fine when its running with the light on. Any input from the pros?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Are you trying to remove the cable housing or the spoiler itself?


Spoiler mechanism


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

pedrosan said:


> So i only drive my rado a few times a week right now, trying to keep the miles down
> 
> The past 2 times i start the car while cold, i get the flashing oil light. No buzzer, and the light only stays on for about 5 seconds. Didnt ever used to do this to me. Already checked the obvious, oil level ok, sensors on housing all plugged in. Any insight into my idiot light? I am running 20w50c oil. Good mann filter. Could it be just from sitting longer than it usually does, taking longer to pump up pressure?
> Also, the engine sounds fine when its running with the light on. Any input from the pros?


Sounds like it's losing a little pressure while it sits.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Spoiler mechanism


Yeah the black box that spools the cable up, right? I wanted to take mine out to lube it but ran into the same problem - the nuts just keep spinning but don't come off!

My spoiler works but makes a funny sound when it reaches the top. I disconnected power to the spoiler until I can lube it up and moved on to other headaches.


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

Ok I'm having problems with my car turning on I got a new battery and still nothing I checked the alternator and it was good also checked the ground which I had to sand down a little idk if there is another ground I should check I have a kill switch in the car so not sure if the battery is being drained any help would be awesome :banghead:


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Anyone have a good suggestion for reattaching the a-pillar trims to the pillars? The clips all broke and stayed on the pillar when I took the trims off. :banghead:


----------



## karlorado (Nov 13, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Anyone have a good suggestion for reattaching the a-pillar trims to the pillars? The clips all broke and stayed on the pillar when I took the trims off. :banghead:


Pry them off with a flat screwdriver and epoxy them back on the trim. The holes will line up perfect from where they were originaly staked. That's what I did the first time I took mine off, then if you need to remove them again just pry the clip with a screwdriver instead of pulling the trim :thumbup:


----------



## blackblaze427 (Jul 11, 2010)

looking for some help on adapter sizing. got a chance to get a really good deal on a set of adapters. question is how much work do you think ill need to do to get them to fit

wheels are staggered 17x8.5 fronts 17x9.5 rears not sure the offsets

adapters are 25mm front and 33mm rear. 

let me know what you think, i know some fender work will be required.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

blackblaze427 said:


> looking for some help on adapter sizing. got a chance to get a really good deal on a set of adapters. question is how much work do you think ill need to do to get them to fit
> 
> wheels are staggered 17x8.5 fronts 17x9.5 rears not sure the offsets
> 
> ...


not enough info...


----------



## blackblaze427 (Jul 11, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> not enough info...


what other info do you need bud?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

karlorado said:


> Pry them off with a flat screwdriver and epoxy them back on the trim. The holes will line up perfect from where they were originaly staked. That's what I did the first time I took mine off, then if you need to remove them again just pry the clip with a screwdriver instead of pulling the trim :thumbup:


Cool - good thinkin'... sometimes I forget to use that thinkin' stuff. :beer:




blackblaze427 said:


> what other info do you need bud?


You will need to find out the offset on the wheels you are considering. :thumbup:


----------



## blackblaze427 (Jul 11, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> Cool - good thinkin'... sometimes I forget to use that thinkin' stuff. :beer:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


looked everywhere for the offset and i had no luck, they are c4 sawblades.


----------



## blackblaze427 (Jul 11, 2010)

best i could find, 

http://www.joby.se/corvette/div/corvette_wheels/

56mm f&r offset but then it says the fronts have 6.9" backspacing and the rears have 7.4" backspacing. 

now im assuming thats because of the widths correct?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

blackblaze427 said:


> best i could find,
> 
> http://www.joby.se/corvette/div/corvette_wheels/
> 
> ...


Im not real good on offsets and all that - maybe one of the other guys can chime in with some wisdom...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

blackblaze427 said:


> best i could find,
> 
> http://www.joby.se/corvette/div/corvette_wheels/
> 
> ...


Still not enough info. VR6 or G60 suspension?

Offset is how far from the center of the wheel the mounting face is. Offset changes with width.

The fronts will be fine with those adapters if you are on VR6 suspension, G60 might hit, you will need to roll the fenders.

The rears you may want a larger spacer. I don't think they will clear the strut out back.


----------



## blackblaze427 (Jul 11, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> Still not enough info. VR6 or G60 suspension?
> 
> Offset is how far from the center of the wheel the mounting face is. Offset changes with width.
> 
> ...


vr6 suspension, so what are you thinking for a spacer? 35mm? 40? maybe just throw a 5mm spacer on the adapters i have?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

blackblaze427 said:


> vr6 suspension, so what are you thinking for a spacer? 35mm? 40? maybe just throw a 5mm spacer on the adapters i have?


Spacers and adapters together are a no no. Using adapters are bad enough but to add that to it...:banghead:

5mm or so is what you will need


----------



## blackblaze427 (Jul 11, 2010)

figured as much well ill try the 33mm's and see how close it is to the strut. thanks for the help:beer:


----------



## MrBland (Jul 9, 2010)

I've got a small and slow oil leak that looks like it's coming from the oil filter housing. What part is probably leaking? Where could I get the parts to fix/any recommendations?


----------



## CorradoFuhrer (Mar 21, 2002)

> ....oil filter problem


 Pictures are worth a thousand words... 

clean it - and start removing stuff. If its coming from the bottom where the filter housing meets the block... chances are its the gasket. Was there any recent work done to the car in that area? VR or G60?


----------



## CorradoFuhrer (Mar 21, 2002)

pedrosan said:


> So i only drive my rado a few times a week right now, trying to keep the miles down
> 
> The past 2 times i start the car while cold, i get the flashing oil light. No buzzer, and the light only stays on for about 5 seconds. Didnt ever used to do this to me. Already checked the obvious, oil level ok, sensors on housing all plugged in. Any insight into my idiot light? I am running 20w50c oil. Good mann filter. Could it be just from sitting longer than it usually does, taking longer to pump up pressure?
> Also, the engine sounds fine when its running with the light on. Any input from the pros?


 the name of the game! :thumbup:


----------



## hotradochick90 (Feb 22, 2010)

*window regualtor and moonroof*

instead of buying new stuff, and cant seem to find any corrados in my area for parts, i need a pass window regulator, what one can i get off a dub from the junk yard? also what dub has the moon roof to fit my g60?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

hotradochick90 said:


> instead of buying new stuff, and cant seem to find any corrados in my area for parts, i need a pass window regulator, what one can i get off a dub from the junk yard? also what dub has the moon roof to fit my g60?


 you have to post several pics of yourself to get any answers here... :laugh: 

Regulator is Corrado specific, put up a post in classifieds or search there, should be able to find them, no problem...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

hotradochick90 said:


> instead of buying new stuff, and cant seem to find any corrados in my area for parts, i need a pass window regulator, what one can i get off a *VW *from the junk yard? also what *VW *has the moon roof to fit my g60?


 Window regs are Corrado only. 

b4/b3 passat work well for moonroofs.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> you have to post several pics of yourself to get any answers here... :laugh:


 Actually I am good with her just stopping using the term "dub" ever again would suffice.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Actually I am good with her just stopping using the term "dub" ever again would suffice.


 easy tiger :laugh:


----------



## MrBland (Jul 9, 2010)

CorradoFuhrer said:


> Pictures are worth a thousand words...
> 
> clean it - and start removing stuff. If its coming from the bottom where the filter housing meets the block... chances are its the gasket. Was there any recent work done to the car in that area? VR or G60?


 No work done recently other than an oil change about 1k ago or so. VR6.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> b4/b3 passat work well for moonroofs.


 I just finished putting a B4 one into mine. Went surprisingly well. It seems to sit just a liiiiittle high at the front center and a liiiiitle low at the front corners. Is this because the curvature of the roof on the B4 was close but not dead-on to the roof of the 'rado?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> I just finished putting a B4 one into mine. Went surprisingly well. It seems to sit just a liiiiittle high at the front center and a liiiiitle low at the front corners. Is this because the curvature of the roof on the B4 was close but not dead-on to the roof of the 'rado?


 Shim it. Takes a bit of time to get it exact but you can shim it with washers


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

I need a Radiator for my 93 VR6. Can anyone recommend a good OEM replacement source? 
Please and thank you. 
TLJ


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Shim it. Takes a bit of time to get it exact but you can shim it with washers


 Correct me if I'm misunderstanding you: but if it's high in the front center and low at the front corners and I shim the corners, it's gonna raise the center too...?


----------



## reborndub (Jun 18, 2009)

pedrosan said:


> So i only drive my rado a few times a week right now, trying to keep the miles down
> 
> The past 2 times i start the car while cold, i get the flashing oil light. No buzzer, and the light only stays on for about 5 seconds. Didnt ever used to do this to me. Already checked the obvious, oil level ok, sensors on housing all plugged in. Any insight into my idiot light? I am running 20w50c oil. Good mann filter. Could it be just from sitting longer than it usually does, taking longer to pump up pressure?
> Also, the engine sounds fine when its running with the light on. Any input from the pros?


 sounds like its that thick heavy oil your using.
just takes longer to push it where it needs to go.

just my thought


----------



## trek--morin (Oct 1, 2007)

The fresh air fan isnt working at all speed in my corrado,so i started to investigate by the obvious things, i look at the fuse box and i see a 30A in the slot (which is 20A according to bentley). The fuse was blown so i got a new one (20A) and then i turn the key to ON and VOILA! the fan work! OH NO, there is smoke coming from the engine bay!!  

Turned out to be my F87 sensor that is ****ed up, pin 3 and 4 are fried... Is it only caused by this faulty sensor tho, maybe its getting too much power or i've been told it might be my FCM... Is there a way to test that circuit? (read voltmeter no vagcom available) And will the coolant start to escape if i remove it from the T housing? 

Thanks


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

TheLateJetta said:


> I need a Radiator for my 93 VR6. Can anyone recommend a good OEM replacement source?
> Please and thank you.
> TLJ


:thumbup:


----------



## reborndub (Jun 18, 2009)

TheLateJetta said:


> I need a Radiator for my 93 VR6. Can anyone recommend a good OEM replacement source?
> Please and thank you.
> TLJ


 
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Cooling/168/2

looks pretty cheap, oh and dont be to lazy 
took me less than 30 sec to find that. maybe thats why no one replied,i dont know


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

reborndub said:


> looks pretty cheap, oh and dont be to lazy
> took me less than 30 sec to find that. maybe thats why no one replied,i dont know


 I asked for a recommendation from an expert on an expert thread. I got an answer, therefore the purpose of the thread has been met. 
Thx


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Can someone please explain me how do this sort of spacers work  
...reffering to the weird shape of the 2 holes: 










TIA


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

My theory: Those spacers probably fit at least 3 different patterns, so the slot because some of the bolt holes would be too close together if they were drilled individually.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> My theory: Those spacers probably fit at least 3 different patterns, so the slot because some of the bolt holes would be too close together if they were drilled individually.


 Hmm, thanks...mine is a 4x100 application. Would it be safe to use those? I know the wheel lugs actually bolt in the hub but still It doesn't look 100% safe to me...Anyone tried this? 

They are Eibach btw


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Hmm, thanks...mine is a 4x100 application. Would it be safe to use those? I know the wheel lugs actually bolt in the hub but still It doesn't look 100% safe to me...Anyone tried this?
> 
> They are Eibach btw


 I would say if Eibach put them on the market, they must feel they are safe (or else they wouldn't want to take on the liability. Like you said, the bolt seats into the hub. 

I couldn't find them on Eibach's site, do you have a link?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> I would say if Eibach put them on the market, they must feel they are safe (or else they wouldn't want to take on the liability. Like you said, the bolt seats into the hub.
> 
> I couldn't find them on Eibach's site, do you have a link?


 
I'm having a problem logging into ebay right now but its item # *400127781274* in www.ebay.co.uk 

and there's also this in ebay.de: http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170498183740&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:DE:1123 

Tell me what u think :thumbup: 


edit: here: http://cgi.ebay.de/EIBACH-DISTANZSC...s=63&clkid=5638429239226796012#ht_2328wt_1135


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

I'm wondering if those are really made by Eibach... :sly:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> I'm wondering if those are really made by Eibach... :sly:












I did search Eibach's website before I posted and didn't find them but I thought maybe they were an older part or something... 

I really need 12mm hubcentric spacers and need something cheap :banghead:


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Well it sure says Eibach on the side... I couldn't find them on Eibach's site either - that's why I was beginning to doubt their authenticity. 

Check out ECS Tuning -- http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Corrado--G60/Wheels/Spacers/


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Correct me if I'm misunderstanding you: but if it's high in the front center and low at the front corners and I shim the corners, it's gonna raise the center too...?


 That is just what you are gonna have to live with because the B4 roofline was a little more rounded than the C


----------



## RowBoatsVdubs (Mar 18, 2008)

i know rado's share alot with mk2/mk3's and all so i was wondering if the carpet was the same? i have some black stuff left over from my mk2 jetta. same stuff or different?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> That is just what you are gonna have to live with because the B4 roofline was a little more rounded than the C


 If I just shim the two front center mounting bolts, and *not* the sides, it would just pull the center down, right? But then again, that might put an unecessary bend or stress on the frame wouldn't it?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Can someone please explain me how do this sort of spacers work
> ...reffering to the weird shape of the 2 holes:
> 
> 
> ...





RedYellowWhite said:


> Hmm, thanks...mine is a 4x100 application. Would it be safe to use those? I know the wheel lugs actually bolt in the hub but still It doesn't look 100% safe to me...Anyone tried this?
> 
> They are Eibach btw


 


RedYellowWhite said:


> I'm having a problem logging into ebay right now but its item # *400127781274* in www.ebay.co.uk
> 
> and there's also this in ebay.de: http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170498183740&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:DE:1123
> 
> ...


 [email protected] thanks for the replies :thumbup: (The ECS one look good but with shipping over the pond they're gonna to be expensive...) 


So, yay or nay with those  
Anyone else care to share some ideas?


----------



## RowBoatsVdubs (Mar 18, 2008)

RowBoatsVdubs said:


> i know rado's share alot with mk2/mk3's and all so i was wondering if the carpet was the same? i have some black stuff left over from my mk2 jetta. same stuff or different?


 also! 

i bought this G60 yesterday in indiana, and immediately drove it home 5 hours to nashville, without a problem. today i get in it and the oil light comes on and beeps at me. changed to oil and filter and it still does it.... what give? i know there is oil pressure because the car isnt making any noise and i JUST put 4 quarts of sunthetic in it.... 


any ideas? possibly the oil pressure switch?


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

[email protected] said:


> If I just shim the two front center mounting bolts, and *not* the sides, it would just pull the center down, right? But then again, that might put an unecessary bend or stress on the frame wouldn't it?


 Just shim it so the center sits flush with the roof and the corners are a little low. If any part of the glass/seal sits high it will have wind noise. As long as you shim it right there shouldn't be any stress on the frame. The frame is not going to bend.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

dogger said:


> Just shim it so the center sits flush with the roof and the corners are a little low. If any part of the glass/seal sits high it will have wind noise. As long as you shim it right there shouldn't be any stress on the frame. The frame is not going to bend.


 May be a dumb question, but to bring the center down (the corners are already low) where do I shim it? And do I just use washers as shims, where the frame bolts to the roof?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> If I just shim the two front center mounting bolts, and *not* the sides, it would just pull the center down, right? But then again, that might put an unecessary bend or stress on the frame wouldn't it?


 Tried to call... 



RedYellowWhite said:


> [email protected] thanks for the replies :thumbup: (The ECS one look good but with shipping over the pond they're gonna to be expensive...)
> 
> 
> So, yay or nay with those
> Anyone else care to share some ideas?


 They look good :thumbup: Multihole for different bolt patterns, universal fit, 4 & 5 lug 



RowBoatsVdubs said:


> also!
> 
> i bought this G60 yesterday in indiana, and immediately drove it home 5 hours to nashville, without a problem. today i get in it and the oil light comes on and beeps at me. changed to oil and filter and it still does it.... what give? i know there is oil pressure because the car isnt making any noise and i JUST put 4 quarts of sunthetic in it....
> 
> ...


 try the switch, they are pretty cheap :thumbup:


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

[email protected] said:


> May be a dumb question, but to bring the center down (the corners are already low) where do I shim it? And do I just use washers as shims, where the frame bolts to the roof?


 
To bring the center down you need to shim the whole front of the frame. I used a couple of washers stacked and put them where the bolts go to hold the frame to the roof.


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

I need someone to confirm the pin/wire position on a '93 VR O2 sensor plug coming from the car side of the harness, not the O2 side.

IIRC the white wire is off skewed on its own, than brown, yellow, and red is on the outside pin. Is that correct?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

dogger said:


> To bring the center down you need to shim the whole front of the frame. I used a couple of washers stacked and put them where the bolts go to hold the frame to the roof.


 I'm throwing in the towel and putting the interior back together... it is what it is, and I'm okay with that! :beer:


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

Lol! I was like that when I did mine. I still need to shim it more. Wind noise is annoying at times.


----------



## RowBoatsVdubs (Mar 18, 2008)

RowBoatsVdubs said:


> i know rado's share alot with mk2/mk3's and all so i was wondering if the carpet was the same? i have some black stuff left over from my mk2 jetta. same stuff or different?


 ???


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

I have a question about bbs rs wheels (not strictly corrado but a lot of you know your stuff when it comes to wheel fitment). I have been looking around at finding a very used set that I could restore. Problem is that 4x100 is not common at all. 5x120, 5x114.3 and 5x130 are the most common from what I can see. I am not really a fan of redrilling, other then that what would my options be adapter wise? I was thinking I would ideally run 8" all around.


----------



## g60racer (Nov 18, 2000)

dogger said:


> To bring the center down you need to shim the whole front of the frame. I used a couple of washers stacked and put them where the bolts go to hold the frame to the roof.


 
I don't understand why so many roofs need to be shimmed at all. Mine went in with no shims, just the bolts, and fits pretty darned perfectly.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Question: any problems/issues when removing helper springs from coilovers? I guess they are just there to absorb vibrations and make the ride quality a bit better right?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Question: any problems/issues when removing helper springs from coilovers? I guess they are just there to absorb vibrations and make the ride quality a bit better right?


 Nick, 
I am currently running no helper springs on my rear coils, got the coils that way, so I don't know the difference on my set-up per say. Some say it is just fine and I think it would if you had dampening control and didn't go too low. I need to try to put mine back in soon to see what will happen. But, if you push down on the front of my car, it is stiff, and if you push down on the rear, it has more motion, springy, if you will. Me personally I say leave them on, but I am more interested in handling than being low, so to each is own. I did however talk with Bilstein on this and they say the helper springs need to remain on the coils for proper positioning of strut internals, that if you went to low, you will damage your strut, which may have been what happened to mine from the PO. :thumbup:


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

dogger said:


> Lol! I was like that when I did mine. I still need to shim it more. Wind noise is annoying at times.


 Just turn up the radio!


----------



## RowBoatsVdubs (Mar 18, 2008)

WILL MK2 CARPET FIT?! (third attempt)


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RowBoatsVdubs said:


> WILL MK2 CARPET FIT?! (third attempt)


 NO...


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Nick,
> I am currently running no helper springs on my rear coils, got the coils that way, so I don't know the difference on my set-up per say. Some say it is just fine and I think it would if you had dampening control and didn't go too low. I need to try to put mine back in soon to see what will happen. But, if you push down on the front of my car, it is stiff, and if you push down on the rear, it has more motion, springy, if you will. Me personally I say leave them on, but I am more interested in handling than being low, so to each is own. I did however talk with Bilstein on this and they say the helper springs need to remain on the coils for proper positioning of strut internals, that if you went to low, you will damage your strut, which may have been what happened to mine from the PO. :thumbup:


 Problem is with now the skinny tyres (195/40) my car looks like a 4x4  even if the 90mm spoiler catches on everything...I'm actually getting rid of that for a 50mm version  
Today I took it for a alignment and told my buddy at the shop there to lower my coilovers. He said that he couldn't do it unless we remove the helpers  I suspect he was just bored to do it, cause there are like 5-6cm threads of adjustment left on the coilovers.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Problem is with now the skinny tyres (195/40) my car looks like a 4x4  even if the 90mm spoiler catches on everything...I'm actually getting rid of that for a 50mm version
> Today I took it for a alignment and told my buddy at the shop there to lower my coilovers. He said that he couldn't do it unless we remove the helpers  I suspect he was just bored to do it, cause there are like 5-6cm threads of adjustment left on the coilovers.


 Time for air-ride :laugh: 

If you want low, you can do it, but you might sacrifice your handling and possibly damage the coils :thumbdown: 4x4 STAT + handling FTW :thumbup: Just tell him to spin them all the way down


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Time for air-ride :laugh:
> 
> If you want low, you can do it, but you might sacrifice your handling and possibly damage the coils :thumbdown: 4x4 STAT + handling FTW :thumbup: Just tell him to spin them all the way down


 Next Saturday we're trying that... 
I'll pm you a pic of the current situation


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> .
> I'll pm you a pic of the current situation


 :thumbup:


----------



## RowBoatsVdubs (Mar 18, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> NO...


 

thank you very much!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RowBoatsVdubs said:


> thank you very much!


 :beer:


----------



## pug_nasty (Jun 17, 2009)

I just put some new shift cables in my g60, but i cant seem to get it to go into 4th.:banghead: R, 1, 2, and 3 are going in but it gets stuck at 4th. What should i try to get it lined up right? 
thx a lot guys


----------



## RowBoatsVdubs (Mar 18, 2008)

have you tried playing with the position of the cables on the slotted holes where they mount to your trans?


----------



## pug_nasty (Jun 17, 2009)

RowBoatsVdubs said:


> have you tried playing with the position of the cables on the slotted holes where they mount to your trans?


 Yeah I've tried messing with the position. I think I may have been going into 3rd thinking it was first...4th thinking it was second etc...thats y it wouldnt go into "4th" because theres no slot for a 6th gear. Shouldnt be too tough now. Thx


----------



## RowBoatsVdubs (Mar 18, 2008)

Is there a specific detail in Corrado VIN's that tell if the car was originally G60 or VR6? i'm begining to wonder about some of the parts i'm seeing....:what: 

please and thanks


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

g60racer said:


> I don't understand why so many roofs need to be shimmed at all. Mine went in with no shims, just the bolts, and fits pretty darned perfectly.


 They don't leak when they aren't shimmed. Its the front leading edge that is more curved and doesn't fit perfect. The rear fits perfect. Your deflector is hiding the front edge and helps eliminate the chance of wind noise.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

dogger said:


> They don't leak when they aren't shimmed. Its the front leading edge that is more curved and doesn't fit perfect. The rear fits perfect. Your deflector is hiding the front edge and helps eliminate the chance of wind noise.


 So shimming = leaking? 

First thing I noticed when I got mine in is exactly what you just said -- the front center is a little high, front corners a little low, and the back is perfect.


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

When I bleed the brakes does it affected my clutch because clutch does not seem to engage and won't let me shift into gear 

Thanks a lot


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

tonyg60 said:


> When I bleed the brakes does it affected my clutch because clutch does not seem to engage and won't let me shift into gear
> 
> Thanks a lot


 possibly, if your brake fluid level went down past the clutch feed...


----------



## ur faster (Jul 21, 2005)

hey got a question, bought my first C a few days ago and the interior was all pulled apart and broken. so i go to put it all back in and underneath the shift boot i see this electrical junction box and also a loose connector. im guessing the box mounts to the bracket in this pic?









then there's this loose connector that's not like the other two. does it go into the same electric block? it doesn't seem to fit, and i cant find anything about this in the Bentley, thanks! pics of said connector,

















TIA :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

ur faster said:


> hey got a question, bought my first C a few days ago and the interior was all pulled apart and broken. so i go to put it all back in and underneath the shift boot i see this electrical junction box and also a loose connector. im guessing the box mounts to the bracket in this pic?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


IIRC those are for diagnostic contact points, unused in my car, they do go to the broken bracket and the third just lays in there, I say just zip tie them up :thumbup:


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

My sunroof only tilts & when opened I noticed the passenger rear guide (with rubber wheel) had the top piece broken off. Is this probably why it doesn't slide back? As much as I'd like a glass sunroof I would rather get the original one working. 

Anyone know how much this part costs? Part # doesn't come up on any sites.

_______________________________________________


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

PrjktRado1 said:


> My sunroof only tilts & when opened I noticed the passenger rear guide (with rubber wheel) had the top piece broken off. Is this probably why it doesn't slide back? As much as I'd like a glass sunroof I would rather get the original one working.
> 
> Anyone know how much this part costs? Part # doesn't come up on any sites.
> 
> _______________________________________________


EPP sells the replacement parts, and I believe 1stvwparts does too, but more expensive, it was a VW issued repair kit to replace the weak parts, the kits were around $35 each IIRC from EPP and you cannot put a metal panel on a newer track, Corrado only, ask me how I know :laugh:


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

PrjktRado1 said:


> My sunroof only tilts & when opened I noticed the passenger rear guide (with rubber wheel) had the top piece broken off. Is this probably why it doesn't slide back? As much as I'd like a glass sunroof I would rather get the original one working.
> 
> Anyone know how much this part costs? Part # doesn't come up on any sites.
> 
> _______________________________________________


The whole track assembly with sliders and everything is one part number. Try to find that repair kit that Sr. Karmann is referring to or it's time for glass! :thumbup:


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

^^^ Wouldn't be bad if I can find a $35 per side kit, and hopefully nothing else is broken. Thanks for the info guys and the headzup on the roof track Karmann. :thumbup: I can sense the pain in your words. :laugh:

______________________________________________


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

PrjktRado1 said:


> ^^^ Wouldn't be bad if I can find a $35 per side kit, and hopefully nothing else is broken. Thanks for the info guys and the headzup on the roof track Karmann. :thumbup: I can sense the pain in your words. :laugh:
> 
> ______________________________________________


:thumbup:


----------



## redraddo92 (Jan 12, 2009)

i was wondering which car do you think would be quicker im not looking to race just in a debate with a friend and we want some thoughts from people that probally have driven both i had an 07 gti with a drop in kn filter and revo stage 1 flash set to around 15lbs of boost and in the next few weeks im dropping a turbo into my corrado its a kinetic stg 1 kit low boost until i build the engine more


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

All of the sudden the power windows stop working (drivers side is now stuck open :banghead. Both switches (dr. & pass. side) do nothing, can't hear the "click" sound either. Same time central locking stopped working too. Everything else in the interior (electically) work fine...

I'm gonna probably check it out tomorrow but does anyone have a quick idea of what might the problem be?


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

How do you bleed the clutch because I can't seem to find it on the bently manual


Thanks


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

redraddo92 said:


> i was wondering which car do you think would be quicker im not looking to race just in a debate with a friend and we want some thoughts from people that probally have driven both i had an 07 gti with a drop in kn filter and revo stage 1 flash set to around 15lbs of boost and in the next few weeks im dropping a turbo into my corrado its a kinetic stg 1 kit low boost until i build the engine more


most retarded question I've seen in a while :thumbup:



RedYellowWhite said:


> All of the sudden the power windows stop working (drivers side is now stuck open :banghead. Both switches (dr. & pass. side) do nothing, can't hear the "click" sound either. Same time central locking stopped working too. Everything else in the interior (electically) work fine...
> 
> I'm gonna probably check it out tomorrow but does anyone have a quick idea of what might the problem be?


Nick, did you chek you're fuses? I've heard if you go too low your windows will stop working .....:laugh:



tonyg60 said:


> How do you bleed the clutch because I can't seem to find it on the bently manual
> 
> 
> Thanks


you cannot bleed your clutch :laugh: can however bleed the clutch master and slave, only way to go IMO is gravity bleed, crack the bleeder valve for like 30 mins, just keeping your eye on the fluid levels in the res :thumbup:


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

how do i adjust the idle speed screw :banghead:

Well what's the proper setting 
thanks


----------



## MrBland (Jul 9, 2010)

Where can I get new 17mm bolts that bolt the bumper assembly to the frame? Dealer?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Nick, did you chek you're fuses? I've heard if you go too low your windows will stop working .....:laugh:


^^ LMAO :laugh:

It was night so I could check...I'm gonna do it now 

Edit: fixed...it was a blown fuse afterall. 
I just want to know who's great idea :sly: was to put that fuse into that unreachable place and not where all the other fuses are  Great German engineering I quess :banghead:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

tonyg60 said:


> how do i adjust the idle speed screw :banghead:
> 
> Well what's the proper setting
> thanks


Very carefully, bad location and need a S shaped flathead IMO



MrBland said:


> Where can I get new 17mm bolts that bolt the bumper assembly to the frame? Dealer?


Dealer would be your best bet :thumbup:



RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^ LMAO :laugh:
> 
> It was night so I could check...I'm gonna do it now
> 
> ...


Ya, think it was an afterthought by VW, I will rotate my fuseblock down when it comes to those fuses


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

Yea the location sucks but what is the proper setting? 
if I set it wrong what's the worse that can happen?

Thanks a lot


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

tonyg60 said:


> Yea the location sucks but what is the proper setting?
> if I set it wrong what's the worse that can happen?
> 
> Thanks a lot


Should still be factory setting unless it has been tampered with... There is a writeup in the Bentley and I have not messed with mine, at all. I would look into your idle switch before you go messing with the screw. There are a few adjustments that can be made on the throttle body, but do not have the time to sit here and diagnose your idle issue, you need to refer to the Bentley and if you don't have one, either buy one, or download it, dogger put up a link but you will have to search for it


----------



## the raptor (Feb 19, 2004)

*blah blah blah, I DONT KNOW WHAT IM DOING.*

here it is, 1992 G60. 

looing to tap into tach wire to run sds

what color is the wire?

Elsa web gives me no diagram info... :banghead:

-any info would be much appreciated. 

thanks


"sssssshhhh, be quiet, if it hears you it will break."
words from a true g60 owner


----------



## ur faster (Jul 21, 2005)

if i hear coolant gurgling whenever the engine running, does it mean heater-core? or what else could it be?thanks!:thumbup:


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

ur faster said:


> if i hear coolant gurgling whenever the engine running, does it mean heater-core? or what else could it be?thanks!:thumbup:


If it's coming from under the dash its probably the heater core. If it's gurgling I think you may be low on coolant... have you checked it? It's a pressurized system so i may appear full in the expansion tank, but there could be an air bubble in the system somewhere that needs to get worked out.


----------



## MrBland (Jul 9, 2010)

What gear oil do you guys recommend? 

My reverse and first gear suddenly got really hard to engage, so I figured I'd change the gear oil and see if that helps at all.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

MrBland said:


> What gear oil do you guys recommend?
> 
> My reverse and first gear suddenly got really hard to engage, so I figured I'd change the gear oil and see if that helps at all.


Redline, I forget what weight off hand, went based on what the Bentley or owner manual recommended made shifting noticeably smoother.

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=46&pcid=7&gclid=CKuBi_HKqKQCFbBe7AodtwfG3g


----------



## MrBland (Jul 9, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Redline, I forget what weight off hand, went based on what the Bentley or owner manual recommended made shifting noticeably smoother.
> 
> http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=46&pcid=7&gclid=CKuBi_HKqKQCFbBe7AodtwfG3g


Checked my Bentley and it says 75W-90 so I guess the first one on redline's site. Thanks!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

MrBland said:


> Checked my Bentley and it says 75W-90 so I guess the first one on redline's site. Thanks!


NP :thumbup:


----------



## MrBland (Jul 9, 2010)

Oh, and how much does the Corrado hold? 2 quarts, right?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

MrBland said:


> Oh, and how much does the Corrado hold? 2 quarts, right?


I think capacity is 2.1 or 2.3, making you think you need 3 quarts @ $18 a pop :sly: 2 quarts should do you just fine if only to drain in the car and re-fill, I'd say splurge on three if you had it out of the car and apart :thumbup:


----------



## MrBland (Jul 9, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I think capacity is 2.1 or 2.3, making you think you need 3 quarts @ $18 a pop :sly: 2 quarts should do you just fine if only to drain in the car and re-fill, I'd say splurge on three if you had it out of the car and apart :thumbup:


Yeah, I'm just draining and filling, so I'll just go with 2. I'm nickled and dimed enough as it is haha.


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

*g60 ac makes engine rev up*

when i turn the ac on in my car it rev the car up like 5k idk im soo stumped on this shyt i have no clue what the prob could be


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

MrBland said:


> Yeah, I'm just draining and filling, so I'll just go with 2. I'm nickled and dimed enough as it is haha.


Thatz what I did


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

ok so how about the problem with my ac and why it make my motor rev to hell when i turn it on?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

G60Ron said:


> ok so how about the problem with my ac and why it make my motor rev to hell when i turn it on?


could be a couple things... where are you in Miami?


----------



## IMWALKIN (Mar 28, 2002)

I've replaced my thermostat with a low temp as well as a low temp fan switch and no matter what and how I wire the switch the fan only comes on low at like 220? system has been drained and flushed..wiring checked and pump looks good?? is the temp in my radiator that much lower than the sensor off the engine?? could it be a clogged radiator????? it only over heats during traffic...I have jumped the fan..runs all speeds..I have the thermoswitch bypassed right now with a toggle to activate hurricane mode...any ideas??


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

IMWALKIN said:


> I've replaced my thermostat with a low temp as well as a low temp fan switch and no matter what and how I wire the switch the fan only comes on low at like 220? system has been drained and flushed..wiring checked and pump looks good?? is the temp in my radiator that much lower than the sensor off the engine?? could it be a clogged radiator????? it only over heats during traffic...I have jumped the fan..runs all speeds..I have the thermoswitch bypassed right now with a toggle to activate hurricane mode...any ideas??


I had a similar issue with mine, new low temp rad thermoswitch, low temp t-stat... It ended up being my black coolant gauge sensor, cheap enough to just replace, my friend actually had a spare that I threw in and viola, problem solved. And since, I have replaced both temp sensors on a low cost insurance program


----------



## wed3k (Feb 22, 2010)

my plan for the eaton m90 may be scrapped for a magnuson mp90. more aftermarket parts considering i need a shorter nose drive.

we'll see, im hoping to get the charger first.


----------



## G60Scuzz (Nov 14, 2003)

Alternatives for your shorter nose can be had in the Jackson racing charger kits as well, if you see a bad head unit snag it up for the nose cone that you need. :beer:

EDIT: JR subs magnuson to build their chargers.

If you went with an M62 there are some Mercedes with short short nose drives and electric clutches.
(well that part isn't of any use really lol)


----------



## IMWALKIN (Mar 28, 2002)

I just replaced my black a few weeks ago...I'm losing hope!!!!! any way of checking the black sensor as well as the fan switch..I have heard of bad switches..


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

IMWALKIN said:


> I just replaced my black a few weeks ago...I'm losing hope!!!!! any way of checking the black sensor as well as the fan switch..I have heard of bad switches..


also may be your gauge itself, see if you can get a remote laser thermometer :thumbup:


----------



## IMWALKIN (Mar 28, 2002)

also the thermoswitch is independant? the black switch, as far as i know, does not have any affect on this? right?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

IMWALKIN said:


> also the thermoswitch is independant? the black switch, as far as i know, does not have any affect on this? right?


thermoswitch is independent :thumbup: tells your fans to come on and either high or low depending on temp, you can jumper this switch with a piece of wire for high and low fan test


----------



## cj60 (Jul 16, 2003)

*replacing water pump & t-stat*

do I drain the coolant first on the radiator lower hose ???? 
and will it drain all when removing the water pump ???

thank you


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

I've got a will they fit wheel question. It's a VR6 with plus suspension and the wheels are 17*8 et38 no tires yet. I know they are going to fit under the arches but will I have major rubbing if I do not have rolled fenders?

I don't want to be slammed or super low where I scrap the front lip or oil pan. I don't mind having a little wheel gap if it means no rubbing.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cj60 said:


> do I drain the coolant first on the radiator lower hose ????
> and will it drain all when removing the water pump ???
> 
> thank you


98% will come out when you do the lower rad hose :thumbup:


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

the heater core hose on the side of the block helps wonders! :beer::beer:


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

*g60 bbm stage 3 chip*

now i was wondering is any one using it or has some insight on it i would really like to know what the specs are for the g60s with this chip


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

G60Ron said:


> now i was wondering is any one using it or has some insight on it i would really like to know what the specs are for the g60s with this chip


check with BBM...


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

yeah but i would have to call then..what are you using?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

G60Ron said:


> yeah but i would have to call then..what are you using?


http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/638/BBM_G60_Stage_III_Eprom

I am running TT STG IV, but not for long


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

93 vr6, water temp. light blinking when starting car cold. It was not doing this before, any sugesstions on what the cause could be?

Thanks!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> 93 vr6, water temp. light blinking when starting car cold. It was not doing this before, any sugesstions on what the cause could be?
> 
> Thanks!


Do you have enough coolant? If not, put some in  If so, then it could possibly be a bad sensor in the coolant bottle, I'm replacing mine due to a bad sensor this weekend


----------



## berg86gti (Aug 27, 2007)

This thread rocks! hopefully someone can help me out. 1990 G60. Sometimes in the morning when I go to start my car I turn the key and all lights/radio turn on but car wont start. No clicking noise or anything. Had the battery checked and alternator, and there both fine. I can get it started with a jump though. Could it be the starter? any tricks or tips would be awesome. Thanks


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

berg86gti said:


> This thread rocks! hopefully someone can help me out. 1990 G60. Sometimes in the morning when I go to start my car I turn the key and all lights/radio turn on but car wont start. No clicking noise or anything. Had the battery checked and alternator, and there both fine. I can get it started with a jump though. Could it be the starter? any tricks or tips would be awesome. Thanks


Ignition switch? Notorious for going bad...


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

i saw that on my dash it was reading that my temp was around 219. is that right? just worried because the car was really hot so im worried 

thanks


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

tonyg60 said:


> i saw that on my dash it was reading that my temp was around 219. is that right? just worried because the car was really hot so im worried
> 
> thanks


Sounds a touch high for a g60. Hows the oil temps?


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

not to sure i pressed the mfa button which read that temp i think its because i moved the idle screw just a little to raise the rpm because it was really low about to stall actually.


----------



## nevinca (Oct 4, 2010)

I'm going to be redoing my clutch on my '93 vr6. Have been looking online for kits...just wondering if spending the extra couple of bills on a kit with a good fly wheel is really worth it.

So I suppose my question is pros/cons of a fly wheel?

And how much extra in labor will I have to pay to get it installed? I hate being a girl sometimes. 

Thanks!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

tonyg60 said:


> not to sure i pressed the mfa button which read that temp i think its because i moved the idle screw just a little to raise the rpm because it was really low about to stall actually.


that reading was from the MFA? Then that is the oil temp.

pretty normal on a stock g60.


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

Oh ok just worried because I never realized the car that hot and thougjt it was because of me changing the idle screw. What's the worst that could happen of the idle is too high and how do I know the exact temp of the car not sure if the gage works

Thanks a lot


----------



## G'D60 (Mar 11, 2002)

Experts,

Is there any mention in this 85 page thread on how to get my stock front bumper to sit right? I remember back in the day there was a way to do it with bottle caps or something crazy like that. I guess the caps replaced thoes doo doo white clips that are NLA

Am i REALLY gonna have to look thru this whole thread?


----------



## palakaman (Oct 8, 2006)

I have a few questions pertaining to the fuel lines that go from the fuel rail that connect on the firewall. Where is a good place to get replacment lines? 

How do you remove those lines?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

G'D60 said:


> Experts,
> 
> Is there any mention in this 85 page thread on how to get my stock front bumper to sit right? I remember back in the day there was a way to do it with bottle caps or something crazy like that. I guess the caps replaced thoes doo doo white clips that are NLA
> 
> Am i REALLY gonna have to look thru this whole thread?


I assume you are talking about the wedge clips that hold the bumper skin to the rebar??? If so, some have used wedges of hard wood, thread was called project green peace


----------



## MrBland (Jul 9, 2010)

I have a lot of negative camber on my front wheels which is wearing the sh*t out of my tires, any camber kits, etc. that would work well? 

Oh, and I finally changed my gear oil, that redline shifts great! Thanks!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

MrBland said:


> I have a lot of negative camber on my front wheels which is wearing the sh*t out of my tires, any camber kits, etc. that would work well?
> 
> Oh, and I finally changed my gear oil, that redline shifts great! Thanks!


No problem and have you taken your car in for an alignment? VW does sell camber bolts, but in most cases you won't need them


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Are the tie-rod ends the same between an MK2 Golf and a '90 G60 Corrado???
part # 191 419 812 left & 191 419 811 right

Thanks


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Are the tie-rod ends the same between an MK2 Golf and a '90 G60 Corrado???
> part # 191 419 812 left & 191 419 811 right
> 
> Thanks


Yes :thumbup:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Yes :thumbup:


Thanks man :beer:


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

What's the worst that could happen if the idle is too high and how do I know the exact temp of the car not sure if the gage works


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

tonyg60 said:


> What's the worst that could happen if the idle is too high and how do I know the exact temp of the car not sure if the gage works


Best way is to get a hold of an ir pyrometer and point it at the coolant hoses as the coolant leaves the engine. That will give you the temp of the coolant when its getting out of the engine. Keep in mind that the temp of your cylinder head is what is most important. Try pointing the pyrometer anywhere that you could measure the temp of the head accurately.

Using the oil temp is an O.K way to start estimating what that temp is. But compare your water and oil temps. Normal running oil temp for a VR is from 200 to 230. I'm not sure what it is for the g60.


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

Pulled into my driveway at night, with headlights on, fog lights on, and brake depressed. Pushed the moonroof button and the idle did some up and down. Rolled up windows and the same thing happend. I know enough to know that it puts draw on the alternator but Ive never experienced it with other cars, but then again its a corrado. Is this normal? When I turn the fogs off its not as noticable. Idles rough during these conditions. Runs and drives fine otherwise. Dash lights dim a little, but doesnt seem out of the ordinary with all that draw. Alternator going bad?


----------



## Swink (Aug 15, 2003)

Perkasie Dubs said:


> Pulled into my driveway at night, with headlights on, fog lights on, and brake depressed. Pushed the moonroof button and the idle did some up and down. Rolled up windows and the same thing happend. I know enough to know that it puts draw on the alternator but Ive never experienced it with other cars, but then again its a corrado. Is this normal? When I turn the fogs off its not as noticable. Idles rough during these conditions. Runs and drives fine otherwise. Dash lights dim a little, but doesnt seem out of the ordinary with all that draw. Alternator going bad?


Is it a rough idle, like sputtering? or a rough idle as in dropping slightly?

Every VW or Audi I've been in has done this while rolling up the windows. Hell, even my b5 does it.


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

Swink said:


> Is it a rough idle, like sputtering? or a rough idle as in dropping slightly?
> 
> Every VW or Audi I've been in has done this while rolling up the windows. Hell, even my b5 does it.


It seems to sputter a little...


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Perkasie Dubs said:


> It seems to sputter a little...


Charge your battery


----------



## VR6 EDM (May 10, 2010)

....or recondition it... its easy.


----------



## Swink (Aug 15, 2003)

Perkasie Dubs said:


> It seems to sputter a little...


Probably a combination of a vacuum leak along with the extra strain on the alternator.


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Charge your battery


New Battery march this year


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

Oh I guess that says charge. :what:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Perkasie Dubs said:


> Oh I guess that says charge. :what:


howz the alt output?


----------



## VR6Nutt (Dec 18, 2003)

This seems a bit elementary but I have a question about the strut mount cap. I tighten the cap to the bearing and it bottoms out. Is there supposed to be any play between the top of the strut bearing (mount) and the cap that holds it in place? Seems like there shouldnt be - but I'm not sure. Also, these are HD mounts on top of Bilstien HD struts on H&R springs. Are there different caps for different strut mounts? :screwy:


----------



## trek--morin (Oct 1, 2007)

*What is the battery size for a 90 Corrado?* G60 swaped VR

Okay seems pretty easy but i called 3 different place and got 3 answers... Called the dealer to get a part# and the guy called me back with whats supposed to be an equivalent # 000915105DGDSP (in stock) but once i got there i noticed how long it was and in fact it was too long!! 

So whats the OEM part# or universal size like MT47? Is a Optima worth the price?

Thanks guys!


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

trek--morin said:


> *What is the battery size for a 90 Corrado?* G60 swaped VR
> 
> Okay seems pretty easy but i called 3 different place and got 3 answers... Called the dealer to get a part# and the guy called me back with whats supposed to be an equivalent # 000915105DGDSP (in stock) but once i got there i noticed how long it was and in fact it was too long!!
> 
> ...


 Group 42 is the correct size.


----------



## trek--morin (Oct 1, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> Group 42 is the correct size.


 Thanks i'll check it out, i currently have a 47 and it fit but its a bit taller... 

And any preference over OEM/Optima/others (interstate/eliminator..)


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

Recently had a b4 moonroof sent to me w/everything but the motor. Unfortunately when I opened it up one of the plastic drain tubes was broken into about 20 pieces. :banghead: 

My original sunroof is still in the car & I'm wondering if this part can be swapped over to the b4. Is the frame that's attached to these drain tubes the same on the Corrado sunroof? I'm calling it a frame but not sure what it's actually called. On the b4 it looks like it's all aluminum except for the 4 corners where the plastic tubes attach. 

_____________________________________________


----------



## XwesleysnipesX (Jul 7, 2010)

My 93 vr is dying and idling erratic until it warms up. Then runs fine. Any thoughts? Coolant temp sensor?


----------



## RowBoatsVdubs (Mar 18, 2008)

trek--morin said:


> *What is the battery size for a 90 Corrado?* Is a Optima worth the price?!


 i love my optima


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

PrjktRado1 said:


> Recently had a b4 moonroof sent to me w/everything but the motor. Unfortunately when I opened it up one of the plastic drain tubes was broken into about 20 pieces. :banghead:
> 
> My original sunroof is still in the car & I'm wondering if this part can be swapped over to the b4. Is the frame that's attached to these drain tubes the same on the Corrado sunroof? I'm calling it a frame but not sure what it's actually called. On the b4 it looks like it's all aluminum except for the 4 corners where the plastic tubes attach.
> 
> _____________________________________________


 Hey man... I'm almost pretty sure that the B4 glass will not work with the Corrado *frame*. You're right - the B4 frame assembly has the plastic drains attached with plastic welds and that sticky urethane stuff. 

Also, you'll want to use the Corrado motor with the B4 frame. :thumbup:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Hey man... I'm almost pretty sure that the B4 glass will not work with the Corrado. You're right - the B4 frame assembly has the plastic drains attached with plastic welds and that sticky urethane stuff.
> 
> Also, you'll want to use the Corrado motor with the B4 frame. :thumbup:


 B3 & B4 glass will work, but you cannot use the Passat glass on the Corrado roof assembly due to the differences.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> B3 & B4 glass will work, but you cannot use the Passat glass on the Corrado roof assembly due to the differences.


 I realized after I read your post I forgot to put "frame" in der... I fixded it. 



> Hey man... I'm almost pretty sure that the B4 glass will not work with the Corrado *frame*. You're right - the B4 frame assembly has the plastic drains attached with plastic welds and that sticky urethane stuff.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

:laugh: :thumbup:


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> :laugh: :thumbup:


 You gonna be at Fixx?


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> I realized after I read your post I forgot to put "frame" in der... I fixded it.


 Thanks for clearing that up guys. I didn't want to send this thing back  but really don't 
see anyway around it now. Atleast it was insured when shipped to me.  

___________________________________________


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> You gonna be at Fixx?


 Most likely. Need some help at the Avenue stand? I might not be there "with Corrado" so If you do, no sweat helping out.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Most likely. Need some help at the Avenue stand? I might not be there "with Corrado" so If you do, no sweat helping out.


 I can haz FIXX mug? :laugh::laugh::laugh:


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

We won't need any help at the booth, but thanks for the offer I appreciate it. :thumbup: 

...but I will be "with Corrado" for the first time at a show! Just for S's and G's I entered it in the Best of Show.


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

spoiler won't go down 

fuses good (both of them) 

moves up with switch but won't move back down w/ switch 

whole spoiler assembly has been cleaned and lubed 

92 vr 

what's the deal


----------



## erickramirez (Aug 2, 2008)

1990 corrado g60, how do you adjust the headlights?? as in move the light output so it points down more? everyone knows but me..


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

erickramirez said:


> 1990 corrado g60, how do you adjust the headlights?? as in move the light output so it points down more? everyone knows but me..


 You just turn the headlight adjuster knob


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Still in need of female AMP terminals for VW plugs :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: 

*READY FOR SQUIRT......*


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> *READY FOR SQUIRT......*


 
Thats what she said


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> You just turn the headlight adjuster knob


 ^^...and pray they don't brake :sly: :banghead:


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Still in need of female AMP terminals for VW plugs :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:
> 
> *READY FOR SQUIRT......*


 I never was able to come up with anything on those either... just keep Googling, just keep Googling.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> I never was able to come up with anything on those either... just keep Googling, just keep Googling.


 got some suggestions in a thread I created and finally got somewhere with Ballenger, ordered a bag of them and a crimp tool to put them on. Thanks for trying tho homie :beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Thats what she said


 :laugh:


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Hey man... I'm almost pretty sure that the B4 glass will not work with the Corrado *frame*. You're right - the B4 frame assembly has the plastic drains attached with plastic welds and that sticky urethane stuff.
> 
> Also, you'll want to use the Corrado motor with the B4 frame. :thumbup:


 Does the original sunroof have the same plastic drains? If so, is it possible to pop them out 
w/o breaking them. Thanks again... 

_______________________________________________


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

PrjktRado1 said:


> Does the original sunroof have the same plastic drains? If so, is it possible to pop them out
> w/o breaking them. Thanks again...
> 
> _______________________________________________


 not possible due to the fact they are built into the assembly.  sorry dude, you need a new assembly if they are broken, or try to repair it with the broken pieces and pray it doesn't leak.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

EFIN spoiler woes, *MAN, DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO GET THE SCREWS OUT WHEN THE PLASTIC NUTCERT IS BROKEN ON THE BACKSIDE?????????? Before I just cut the damn thing out* I'd hate to ruin a perfectly good mechanism that only needs lube... 

I JB welded them last night and tried to crack them today, no bueno... 

Also tried to remove the screws on the side of the tube housings to gain more access to the housing where the nuts are and the nut WILL not come off the end of the screw. No way to get vice grips in there either :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::beer::beer:


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> not possible due to the fact they are built into the assembly.  sorry dude, you need a new assembly if they are broken, or try to repair it with the broken pieces and pray it doesn't leak.


 I was afraid so, really burns my ass. :banghead: Would have tried repairing but it's broken 
into too many pieces. Lesson learned, try to find one locally. 

______________________________________________


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> EFIN spoiler woes, *MAN, DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO GET THE SCREWS OUT WHEN THE PLASTIC NUTCERT IS BROKEN ON THE BACKSIDE?????????? Before I just cut the damn thing out* I'd hate to ruin a perfectly good mechanism that only needs lube...
> 
> I JB welded them last night and tried to crack them today, no bueno...
> 
> Also tried to remove the screws on the side of the tube housings to gain more access to the housing where the nuts are and the nut WILL not come off the end of the screw. No way to get vice grips in there either :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::beer::beer:


 I had the same problem trying to remove the guide tubes.  The ends of the screws were caked with blue loctite keeping it from loosening. I'm pretty sure they all had loctite. Maybe there's something you can spray on the threads that will disolve that crap!!??


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

PrjktRado1 said:


> I had the same problem trying to remove the guide tubes.  The ends of the screws were caked with blue loctite keeping it from loosening. I'm pretty sure they all had loctite. Maybe there's something you can spray on the threads that will disolve that crap!!??


 Ya, it sukks, had to break the damn thing to get it out  New one on the way... 

And about the drain tube plastic, I think you should honestly try it, might be a royal PITA, but I think it is a possibility, it is only the nasty black glue that holds it on and you have the spare out of the car to try it on :thumbup: 

Might need lacquer thinner and or heat :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Ya, it sukks, had to break the damn thing to get it out  New one on the way...
> 
> And about the drain tube plastic, I think you should honestly try it, might be a royal PITA, but I think it is a possibility, it is only the nasty black glue that holds it on and you have the spare out of the car to try it on :thumbup:
> 
> Might need lacquer thinner and or heat :thumbup::thumbup:


 Don't they have 2 plastic welds on each one too? The B4 one I just put in had the plastic crap and 2 rivets on each corner.


----------



## hendrikbmx (Oct 12, 2009)

My '94 VR6 has a rather large leak, somewhere under the thermostat housing, I need all the OEM parts numbers so I can replace everything under there. Im going to get a billet crack pipe, so that number is not needed, I haven't taken it apart yet, can I replace these things without taking off the front end? 
so, parts numbers for thermostat housing and all that goes with it . should I get new sensors aswell? 

thanks


----------



## reverend33 (Apr 12, 2010)

somewhere around driver side front wheel there is a squeeling when turning hard right, what could it be? is it the brake, bearing, or powersteering?


----------



## palakaman (Oct 8, 2006)

Is there an easy way to loosen the clamp that connects the fuel hose to hard line at the firewall? Or am I going to have to hack the old hose to peices to get it off. I'm guessing the hard lines can be easily broken, any tips or tricks on getting the hoses off?


----------



## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

So my front tires rub the inside of my wheel well sometimes. Like if I take a shaper turn or go over a bump to fast. I'm afraid one of these times it's going to rip my tire or something and was wondering what I could do to fix this. I see all these slammed C's and I don't understand how they don't have the same problem.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

bpodlesnik said:


> So my front tires rub the inside of my wheel well sometimes. Like if I take a shaper turn or go over a bump to fast. I'm afraid one of these times it's going to rip my tire or something and was wondering what I could do to fix this. I see all these slammed C's and I don't understand how they don't have the same problem.


 It depends on a few things. Are you rubbing the inside wheel well or rubbing the fender itself? 

Do you still have the fender liner in?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

bpodlesnik said:


> So my front tires rub the inside of my wheel well sometimes. Like if I take a shaper turn or go over a bump to fast. I'm afraid one of these times it's going to rip my tire or something and was wondering what I could do to fix this. I see all these slammed C's and I don't understand how they don't have the same problem.


 It's all in the offsets...maybe try some spacers (like 5mm ones) to see if they'll do the trick


----------



## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> It's all in the offsets...maybe try some spacers (like 5mm ones) to see if they'll do the trick


 See I have spacers, I'm not sure what size they are though. Would removing that inner plastic piece that wraps around the wheel well do anything?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

bpodlesnik said:


> See I have spacers, I'm not sure what size they are though. Would removing that inner plastic piece that wraps around the wheel well do anything?


 Have you looked to see exactly what you are rubbing on?


----------



## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

Yeah. And i can see where it has been smoothed from tire rubbing. I want to take the plastic part off but I don't know if that would be worse or even make a difference


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

bpodlesnik said:


> Yeah. And i can see where it has been smoothed from tire rubbing. I want to take the plastic part off but I don't know if that would be worse or even make a difference


 It really depends on how bad you're actually rubbing. Maybe post a pic and/or wheel/tyre specs... 

Taking that off (fender liner I think its called) will free up some room, but personally I wouldn't do it on a daily driven Corrado (ie water / dirt / stones etc.)


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

bpodlesnik said:


> Yeah. And i can see where it has been smoothed from tire rubbing. I want to take the plastic part off but I don't know if that would be worse or even make a difference


 What I was getting at was: Where is it actually rubbing at? Pics?


----------



## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

http://s976.photobucket.com/albums/ae250/bpp92/111/ 

This is the only way I know to get pictures uploaded on here. But yeah this is from the drivers side and its like it on the passengers side to.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

bpodlesnik said:


> http://s976.photobucket.com/albums/ae250/bpp92/111/
> 
> This is the only way I know to get pictures uploaded on here. But yeah this is from the drivers side and its like it on the passengers side to.


 looks like you are just rubbing the fender liner. I would just put the car lower and keep rubbing it


----------



## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> looks like you are just rubbing the fender liner. I would just put the car lower and keep rubbing it


 It'll get there. I have been saving for coils and hope to have some one over winter break. Thanks though


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> looks like you are just rubbing the fender liner. I would just put the car lower and keep rubbing it


 ^^  

OP, looks minimal....What I would do is measure how much space you have from the outer side of the wheel and the fender (how much the wheels are "tucking") and adjust with some thicker spacers maybe. On another note, how's the alignment? Have you done one recently?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Don't they have 2 plastic welds on each one too? The B4 one I just put in had the plastic crap and 2 rivets on each corner.


 Dunno man, just have to pull it apart to see  



hendrikbmx said:


> My '94 VR6 has a rather large leak, somewhere under the thermostat housing, I need all the OEM parts numbers so I can replace everything under there. Im going to get a billet crack pipe, so that number is not needed, I haven't taken it apart yet, can I replace these things without taking off the front end?
> so, parts numbers for thermostat housing and all that goes with it . should I get new sensors aswell?
> 
> thanks


 my bet for leak is crackpipe, good call on aluminum. Go to germanautoparts.com, and look under the cooling section, they should have everything listed that you need. You don't need to take off the front end, but makes it way easier and seriously should only take 30-45 mins... You should pick up new sensors for as cheap as they are :thumbup: 



reverend33 said:


> somewhere around driver side front wheel there is a squeeling when turning hard right, what could it be? is it the brake, bearing, or powersteering?


 Hard to say without hearing it, but my buddy's VR had a screeching sound like he ran over a bail of wire and it turned out to be his wheel bearing. 



palakaman said:


> Is there an easy way to loosen the clamp that connects the fuel hose to hard line at the firewall? Or am I going to have to hack the old hose to peices to get it off. I'm guessing the hard lines can be easily broken, any tips or tricks on getting the hoses off?


 I am assuming you are talking about the crimp clamps VW loved to use, you can gently pry them off with a small set of needlenose and/or small screwdriver, or just cut the damn thing off, don't want to shorten the fuel hard line too much...


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Lately, the drivers side outside door handle feels a little difficult/harsh to operate (when pulled)  
Is this a sign of it going bad? Door striker kit?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Lately, the drivers side outside door handle feels a little difficult/harsh to operate (when pulled)
> Is this a sign of it going bad? Door striker kit?


 naw man, just needs lube, put some graphite on it and call it a day, mine does it from time to time too


----------



## erickramirez (Aug 2, 2008)

heres another Q, what is this black box thing? mine is just held in place by two bolts but theres nothing else connecting to it, Government tracking device?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

erickramirez said:


> heres another Q, what is this black box thing? mine is just held in place by two bolts but theres nothing else connecting to it, Government tracking device?


Flux capacitor :laugh:

Vibration damper


----------



## reborndub (Jun 18, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Flux capacitor :laugh:
> 
> Vibration damper


i was gonna say a 5 lbs chunk of steel


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Ok everyone, I have a problem with the Corrado. GASP, I know right?

Anyway, I was gone for 5 days and left the amp on... Battery = dead. So I have a small 320 CCA battery that I jump it with so I don't have to get the Silverado over to the garage to jump the Corrado.

While Jumping the Corrado with the 320, It cranks slowly and does not fire, the little battery doesn't have enough juice. Its after I try this that I notice that the light next to the lock stalk is illuminated and has not been illuminated since the security system stopped working. So I went and got the Silverado. I jump the car with the Silverado, this time the starter dosn't even spin or click or engage. I have since wacked the started with a hammer, charged my cars battery and left it disconnected overnight....
I then checked the ignition switch for continuity and found that it had none when in the "start" position. *This leads me to believe that the ignition switch is bad and needs to be replaced. *

When in the key is in the "start" position the solenoid does not receive 12v.

Am I missing anything, can someone think of any other reason why this may not be working?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheLateJetta said:


> Ok everyone, I have a problem with the Corrado. GASP, I know right?
> 
> Anyway, I was gone for 5 days and left the amp on... Battery = dead. So I have a small 320 CCA battery that I jump it with so I don't have to get the Silverado over to the garage to jump the Corrado.
> 
> ...


I would lean toward alarm module, had a buddy with the similar situation until he relpaced it, IIRC could be easily checked against the Bentley :thumbup:


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Ive recently developed the "BB's in a tin Can" sound during hard acceleration. So I'm thinking my timing needs to be adjusted. Aside from taking it to a dealership to get this done... whats the technique for advancing or retarding the timing?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> Ive recently developed the "BB's in a tin Can" sound during hard acceleration. So I'm thinking my timing needs to be adjusted. Aside from taking it to a dealership to get this done... whats the technique for advancing or retarding the timing?


On what engine? need moar info and unaware of the bb's in a tin can sound...


----------



## bulfrog3232 (Jul 12, 2008)

My 1990 G60 Corrado has an ABS issue, 
when i turn the key there is no pressure being built up and when i try to stop my pedal is very stiff and it is only stoping with the front rotors
the rear rotors were not even warm after a two hour mountian drive. 
Help now that my car runs i need it to stop


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

bulfrog3232 said:


> My 1990 G60 Corrado has an ABS issue,
> when i turn the key there is no pressure being built up and when i try to stop my pedal is very stiff and it is only stoping with the front rotors
> the rear rotors were not even warm after a two hour mountian drive.
> Help now that my car runs i need it to stop


Not exactly sure what's up with your ABS, but it sounds like you have some seized rear calipers, maybe? It's very common and there's a few companies (I know ECS has one) make a kit to replace the rears with inexpensive Mk4 calipers.


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Don't they have 2 plastic welds on each one too? The B4 one I just put in had the plastic crap and 2 rivets on each corner.


Yeah, he has a point there. The b4 sunroof I have (96) that's broken has plastic rivets also. :banghead:

________________________________________


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

PrjktRado1 said:


> Yeah, he has a point there. The b4 sunroof I have (96) that's broken has plastic rivets also. :banghead:
> 
> ________________________________________


So drill or melt them out, replace with standard rivet... A $5 soldering iron from harbor freight makes an excellent plastic welder


----------



## yip (Jul 14, 2003)

My GF's 93 VR has a hard time going from neutral into first from a dead stop. Sometimes it will go in like butta but most of the time I have to go into second then into first and even then I might have to force it a little.

Anyone have any input on what the problem might be? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

yip said:


> My GF's 93 VR has a hard time going from neutral into first from a dead stop. Sometimes it will go in like butta but most of the time I have to go into second then into first and even then I might have to force it a little.
> 
> Anyone have any input on what the problem might be? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!


I have the exact same issue, however I am told that it is a matter of adjusting the shifter cable under the shift knob. If anyone has insight, 2 people would appreciate it


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> So drill or melt them out, replace with standard rivet... A $5 soldering iron from harbor freight makes an excellent plastic welder


Kinda wanted to keep my old sunroof in one piece, even though it's not a totally functioning piece. 
Not sure what I'm going to do. You make a good point though. 

_______________________________________________


----------



## yip (Jul 14, 2003)

TheLateJetta said:


> I have the exact same issue, however I am told that it is a matter of adjusting the shifter cable under the shift knob. If anyone has insight, 2 people would appreciate it


I have looked over the shift box and I don't see anywhere where you can make adjustments. All parts in the shift box look good with no issues.


----------



## bulfrog3232 (Jul 12, 2008)

its not my breaks, i just did a full swap, rotors and pads. im almost positive its the abs because there is no pressure being built up when the ignition is turned.
any other ideas


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

bulfrog3232 said:


> its not my breaks, i just did a full swap, rotors and pads. im almost positive its the abs because there is no pressure being built up when the ignition is turned.
> any other ideas


Ditch that problematic ass ABS system... May be able to help you out with that


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

bulfrog3232 said:


> its not my *brakes*, i just did a full swap, rotors and pads. im almost positive its the abs because there is no pressure being built up when the ignition is turned.
> any other ideas


ABS module is probably bad. Check the fuse, relay, and then the module.

OR swap in non-ABS setup


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> ABS module is probably bad. Check the fuse, relay, and then the module.


There is a diagnostic writeup in the Bentley for this :thumbup:


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> On what engine? need moar info and unaware of the bb's in a tin can sound...


Its a G60 motor with 70K on it. It only happens under hard acceleration. From what i've been told its due to a timing issue.
From the drivers seat... it really does sound like a tin can with a dozen or so BB's in it being shaken about. And it happens no matter what gear you are in. At first I thought it might have been my heat shield on the cat rattling around, but had that looked at, and its not that.


----------



## mattalex123 (Oct 16, 2010)

I've got a 93 slc and the driver side window has a really hard time coming up, has no problem going down, but on the way up it barely makes it and sometime stops and i need to push the button again. possible causes or solutions?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

mattalex123 said:


> I've got a 93 slc and the driver side window has a really hard time coming up, has no problem going down, but on the way up it barely makes it and sometime stops and i need to push the button again. possible causes or solutions?


clean the regulator, could be bent too.


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## P1NNER (Nov 10, 2009)

a few things going on with the Corrado...

1. So for the past few days... the car is stuttering and found out that the Crank sensor is going. my question is this... since its a VR6... Does it matter if its before 95 aka Metal Tip or can I get away with 96+ aka Plastic? And where the hell can I get one for cheap?? All the ones ive been find are $120.00+!

2. Windows dont seem to work. windows are all the way up... hit the switch and nothing. no up or down. fuse? before you would have to mess with the buttons to make it go down... but now it has completly stopped... no windows :thumbdown:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> Its a G60 motor with 70K on it. It only happens under hard acceleration. From what i've been told its due to a timing issue.
> From the drivers seat... it really does sound like a tin can with a dozen or so BB's in it being shaken about. And it happens no matter what gear you are in. At first I thought it might have been my heat shield on the cat rattling around, but had that looked at, and its not that.


Huh, never heard of that, but sounds like a possibility of a few different things, tranny tin, timing belt tin, maybe even a bad bearing... What have you done to the car recently to acquire this noise?



TheBurninator said:


> clean the regulator, could be bent too.


that and maybe one of the guides have popped off track, need to pull the doorcard and get dirty 



P1NNER said:


> a few things going on with the Corrado...
> 
> 2. Windows dont seem to work. windows are all the way up... hit the switch and nothing. no up or down. fuse? before you would have to mess with the buttons to make it go down... but now it has completly stopped... no windows :thumbdown:


Not a VR guy, so can't help ya there, but window electrics are funny sometimes. Do you have power at the switches? Do they light up? I had one bad switch before and neither window would work. Also check the fuses and control module :thumbup:


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## bulfrog3232 (Jul 12, 2008)

Where in the Bentley is the diagnostic write up for checking the ABS?
thanks :thumbup:


----------



## P1NNER (Nov 10, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Not a VR guy, so can't help ya there, but window electrics are funny sometimes. Do you have power at the switches? Do they light up? I had one bad switch before and neither window would work. Also check the fuses and control module :thumbup:


yeah there's power... you can hear it but nothing. so check if the switch is good, then check fuses?

anything on the RPM Sensor?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

bulfrog3232 said:


> Where in the Bentley is the diagnostic write up for checking the ABS?
> thanks :thumbup:


Index FIRST WORD :screwy:......:laugh: but just to throw you a bone, specifically starts in 01-1 (itz in tha bak  )



P1NNER said:


> yeah there's power... you can hear it but nothing. so check if the switch is good, then check fuses?
> 
> anything on the RPM Sensor?


Ya man, what I did was flip the switches around in the car, may work, may not. Simple to check with multi-meter. I would look into your WCM, they are known for hanging up, maybe tap it "lightly" while you are trying to power the window motors. See 64.20 in the Bentley :thumbup:


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## RowBoatsVdubs (Mar 18, 2008)

Will ANY Corrado VR6 Gauge Cluster work with any VR6? I have a 95 coil pack VR6 fyi.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RowBoatsVdubs said:


> Will ANY Corrado VR6 Gauge Cluster work with any VR6? I have a 95 coil pack VR6 fyi.


You will need a late cluster. One without the vacuum fitting on it.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

hey Burnsy, that dizzy cap WAS sweet, just more $$ :banghead:

Gonna have the VR input so, no need for hall, just gonna b hanging there powering the pump .....:laugh:


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

yip said:


> My GF's 93 VR has a hard time going from neutral into first from a dead stop. Sometimes it will go in like butta but most of the time I have to go into second then into first and even then I might have to force it a little.
> 
> Anyone have any input on what the problem might be? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!


Shifter bushings probably have gone bad... Quite common.

This thread is gettin bizy.


----------



## yip (Jul 14, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> Shifter bushings probably have gone bad... Quite common.
> 
> This thread is gettin bizy.


I'll check this. Thanks for the info!


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

P1NNER said:


> a few things going on with the Corrado...
> 
> 1. So for the past few days... the car is stuttering and found out that the Crank sensor is going. my question is this... since its a VR6... Does it matter if its before 95 aka Metal Tip or can I get away with 96+ aka Plastic? And where the hell can I get one for cheap?? All the ones ive been find are $120.00+!


Yes it matters, You can use OBD1 Sensors on OBD2, but not backwards. I have seen obd2 swaps with the older sensor, but your car will be weak with the newer one in place still running OBD1. Retarded isnt it. 



yip said:


> My GF's 93 VR has a hard time going from neutral into first from a dead stop. Sometimes it will go in like butta but most of the time I have to go into second then into first and even then I might have to force it a little.
> 
> Anyone have any input on what the problem might be? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!





TheLateJetta said:


> I have the exact same issue, however I am told that it is a matter of adjusting the shifter cable under the shift knob. If anyone has insight, 2 people would appreciate it





[email protected] said:


> Shifter bushings probably have gone bad... Quite common.
> 
> This thread is gettin bizy.


Yes, shifter bushings on top of the trans is where you would start, and if not then adjust shifter, and change the fluid. :thumbup:


----------



## vwrabbit87 (Sep 9, 2005)

93 Slc
Manual
Current Issues
Trans housing is cracked at where the flywheel is
Severe power steering leak
passengers control arm bushing gone.
2" exhaust

Question
Its been moderately cool (low 30's overnight to low 60s) lately and ive noticed when im driving somewhere from 2.3k to 3k the car makes a metal spinning sound. since I'm driving when it happens, it sounds like the something is loose and begins spinning within the tranny. But the car stays in gear and theres no slip in the clutch. If i let off the gas and hit the gas again it sometimes makes the noise, it sometimes doesn't. I checked the trans and my exhaust quickly, everything seems to be in order

So what do you guys think? 
Is it the weather, not allowing the car enough time to warm up before driving?
Is this a result of the failed power steering rack?
Could this have to do with the blown Control arm Bushing?
Or is there a leak in the exhaust i cant see from my quick inspection?
or is it something else?

Thanx in advance
alex


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

vwrabbit87 said:


> 93 Slc
> Manual
> Current Issues
> Trans housing is cracked at where the flywheel is
> ...


Does the sound go away when you put the clutch in?


----------



## vwrabbit87 (Sep 9, 2005)

TheBurninator said:


> Does the sound go away when you put the clutch in?


I did give some misinformation, the noise happens around 1800 and 2500 rpm.. It does it after i release the clutch and the car is in gear.. I do have some issues with my tranny as it is (Shifter is very loose while in gear, first gear clicks sometimes and reverse is tricky to get into.. My cable carrier, is somewhat loose, but i cant seem to figure out how to tighten it down)


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Huh, never heard of that, but sounds like a possibility of a few different things, tranny tin, timing belt tin, maybe even a bad bearing... What have you done to the car recently to acquire this noise?


Nothing, just regular driving for the last 5K or so, however the car was off the road for 4 years prior to that. So Im only aware of whats been done on it in the last 5K. It has just seemed to slowly get worse and worse over the past few weeks, I didnt notice it a few months ago when the car got back on the road. My friend who owned the car previously, said when it happened to him when he first bought the car, he just had the timing advanced and it went away. He mentioned something about the sound being due to fuel igniting late in the cyl, or something like that.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> Nothing, just regular driving for the last 5K or so, however the car was off the road for 4 years prior to that. So Im only aware of whats been done on it in the last 5K. It has just seemed to slowly get worse and worse over the past few weeks, I didnt notice it a few months ago when the car got back on the road. My friend who owned the car previously, said when it happened to him when he first bought the car, he just had the timing advanced and it went away. He mentioned something about the sound being due to fuel igniting late in the cyl, or something like that.


unless your distributor or timing belt are loose, there would be no real way for your timing to go progressively awal. I would just run through it and timing is real easy to check and if you wanted to check it exactly, locate yourself a timing light and a white-out pen :thumbup:

I would also look into some of the stuff I listed earler, pretty simple stuff :thumbup:


----------



## ur faster (Jul 21, 2005)

hey i just had a quick question.. my radiator fan motor went out on my vr and i was wondering if there was any way i could buy 2 12" slim fans and have them work with my thermostat. so it would kick on the appropriate time....possible? there's like six wires in the plug for the switch. possible?:thumbup:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

ur faster said:


> hey i just had a quick question.. my radiator fan motor went out on my vr and i was wondering if there was any way i could buy 2 12" slim fans and have them work with my thermostat. so it would kick on the appropriate time....possible? there's like six wires in the plug for the switch. possible?:thumbup:


yep, wire them into existing fan harness


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## GTIDamien_407 (Nov 23, 2008)

What would you guys offer for this thing its at a dealer keep that in mind it also comes with bbs
http://www.carpages.ca/vehicle/viewdealersite/id/407158
I was thinking $800-1000 pretty rusty


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## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

*g60 misses when warm*

my 91 g60 misses and some times just shuts off when idleing, this only happends when it warms up. It also bucks or misses at part throttle. I used a water spray bottle and found a short at the coil. I did the whole tune up thing, plugs, wires, cap, rotor and coil. still once it warms up its starts to miss or shuts off. I also switched the blue and black coolant sensor and no change. its pulling 18hg of vacume so its not a leak. I will check the timing today but the car rips when you get on it so im guessing its not that. any ideas?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

nu2dubbing said:


> my 91 g60 misses and some times just shuts off when idleing, this only happends when it warms up. It also bucks or misses at part throttle. I used a water spray bottle and found a short at the coil. I did the whole tune up thing, plugs, wires, cap, rotor and coil. still once it warms up its starts to miss or shuts off. I also switched the blue and black coolant sensor and no change. its pulling 18hg of vacume so its not a leak. I will check the timing today but the car rips when you get on it so im guessing its not that. any ideas?


 How is compression on the engine? 

When is the last time the fuel filter was changed? 

Clean and adjust the ISV recently?


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## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

haven't checked comp, new fuel filter, haven't cleaned the isv and not sure how to adjust it.


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> unless your distributor or timing belt are loose, there would be no real way for your timing to go progressively awal. I would just run through it and timing is real easy to check and if you wanted to check it exactly, locate yourself a timing light and a white-out pen :thumbup:
> 
> I would also look into some of the stuff I listed earler, pretty simple stuff :thumbup:


 Sounds good, thanks for the info. I'll check into those things. 

Have some other questions too. 

1) (91 G60 with 65K on it. Auto Tranny) Sometimes my car refuses to shift into 4th gear. I have to run it out until like 4500 rpm before it will finally shift into 4th. Normally the car will shift into 4th once I hit about 45mph unless I have the pedal down to the floor. The odd thing is... if I shut off the car and restart it, then I dont have the problem anymore until I shut the car off again. It seems to happen every few days or so, and requires a restart to make the issue go away. I've changed the ECM, TCM, and the Speed sensor. But its still happening. Since a simple restart seems to fix the issue I figured it was an electrical issue. If it was mechanical I wouldnt think restarting the car would change anything. Any ideas? 

2) When I'm driving the car and let off the gas if I let the engine slow the car down I get a 'warble' from the exhaust. I really dont know any other way to explain it other than a really low warble that you normally hear from Big Block V8s and stuff. I've heard it from VRs before, but never a G60. And while in some ways I think it sounds sweet, its not a sound I've ever heard from my G60 or any G60 for that matter, so it makes me think that something is awry. My exhaust is in poor shape right now (cracked Cat, and a old old *old* muffler, no resonators) but its been that way long before I noticed this sound. 

Thanks for any ideas you may have.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> Sounds good, thanks for the info. I'll check into those things.
> 
> Have some other questions too.
> 
> ...


 No sweat dood :thumbup: 

No idea on auto tranny, I'd just say 5 speed swap... 

My G bubbles on decel  May be a bit of an exhaust leak


----------



## vwrabbit87 (Sep 9, 2005)

Quick Question for the VR guys.. 
My PS rack is shot.. From all my research gather that i need a ZF rack, I recently looked at my tie rod ends theyre stamped with TRW.. I looked at the rack a few months ago a i could have sworn it was a ZF due to the waffle grid pattern.. 

My question is, is it possible the PO put a TRW rack in? im not sure what the difference between the two truly is outside of the housing. Or is possible the PO put TRW ends on a ZF rack? ( though from what i read they dont accept each other) 

Thanks for clarification in advance.. Ill have to go underneath there soon and take a look at the rack myself 
:beer::beer::beer: 
Alex


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

vwrabbit87 said:


> Quick Question for the VR guys..
> My PS rack is shot.. From all my research gather that i need a ZF rack, I recently looked at my tie rod ends theyre stamped with TRW.. I looked at the rack a few months ago a i could have sworn it was a ZF due to the waffle grid pattern..
> 
> My question is, is it possible the PO put a TRW rack in? im not sure what the difference between the two truly is outside of the housing. Or is possible the PO put TRW ends on a ZF rack? ( though from what i read they dont accept each other)
> ...


 Possibly, but what does it matter if it is shot?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

In speaking with a guy thru my ventures about the 02a tranny, he said it would be a good idea to swap out 1st and 2nd gear from my G60 to a VR 02a, to be a little taller and less torquey, any input??? Could I also grab a syncro from a working 3rd gear VR 02a to replace mine? 

Thanks :beer:


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## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> In speaking with a guy thru my ventures about the 02a tranny, he said it would be a good idea to swap out 1st and 2nd gear from my G60 to a VR 02a, to be a little taller and less torquey, any input??? Could I also grab a syncro from a working 3rd gear VR 02a to replace mine?
> Thanks :beer:


 If my information is correct. The o2a from a 4cyl has these #s 
Ring & Pinion: 3.45 
1st: 3.77 
2nd:2.05 
3rd:1.50 
4th:1.03 
5th:.84 

And the VR6 is something like dees. 
Ring & Pinion: 3.38 
1st: 3.30 
2nd: 2.12 
3rd: 1.31 
4th: 1.03 
5th: 0.84 

So you are right. However, why not just swap everything from the VR trans if it has fewer miles? 

As far as the syncro goes... I'm not sure but I see no reason why it would not work... After all they are the "same" transmission.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Someone please help this guy before he has the 1st page on lock with all his threads. :sly:



jgcable said:


> What is this small rubber coupling hose called and does it come in colors? Its fastened with 2 hose clamps. It leads to the intercooler I believe.
> Mine has a little dry rot cracking around one of the hose clamps.





jgcable said:


> I am changing the T-stat on my 1990 G60 and doing some basic maintainence. I already replaced the radiator thermo switch and the fan relay.
> According to my Bentley manual it shows I need the following. Because I have to order some of this stuff I want to make sure I have everything.
> 
> Am I missing anything..
> ...


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheLateJetta said:


> If my information is correct. The o2a from a 4cyl has these #s
> Ring & Pinion: 3.45
> 1st: 3.77
> 2nd:2.05
> ...


 I appreciate the info bro and I will look into it further :thumbup: 



DUBZAK said:


> Someone please help this guy before he has the 1st page on lock with all his threads. :sly:


 I tried to help, but he's a dip$hit that doesn't wanna listen :screwy:


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

I need to rebuild my front suspension and steering, I've got a G60, however I've heard that the VR front strut mounts are better. Are they compatible, and I can just pop them on with new struts, or are they not just plug and play?


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## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

cyberstasi said:


> I need to rebuild my front suspension and steering, I've got a G60, however I've heard that the VR front strut mounts are better. Are they compatible, and I can just pop them on with new struts, or are they not just plug and play?


 I know that for a fact that the VR strut mounts are better and that if your g60 has coilovers the mounts are direct plug & play. With factory corrado suspension I'm not positive but I think they do work. Worst case is that you would need an adapter kit from GAP. But having the VR mounts is worth it.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> I need to rebuild my front suspension and steering, I've got a G60, however I've heard that the VR front strut mounts are better. Are they compatible, and I can just pop them on with new struts, or are they not just plug and play?


 you need the conversion kit, but they will drop in right after that. IIRC if you aren't on coilovers then you will need the VR6 upper spring cap. 

http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Suspension/198/1 

4th one down :thumbup:


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## zideman (Oct 23, 2004)

Battery Drain / Seatbelts QUESTION: 

Hello to all and thank you in advance for any help in this matter. I had a parasitic battery drain that I could not figure out. I did a 3-day weekend full of research and devised that since my AUTO standard seat belts were not working properly (Drivers side did not go forward nor backward and is seemingly stuck between half and 2/3rds and passenger side goes when it wants to, which is minimally) that they were still drawing power all day/night when they didn't run their full course. I read that the relay and components were behind the DS rear quarter panel. I went in and pulled the big black relay. It almost looks to be a "double" relay if you will. I thought that the relay I pulled would stop both sides(according to thread research) but this morning I pulled the key and the PS went to the traveled the whole track like its supposed to. Now my battery drain has seemingly gone away but I thought when I pulled the relay (if I even pulled the right one) that the seat belts were powerless. I just want to make sure that A) I pulled the right relay and that B) my drain doesn't come back. So far my drain hasn't arisen and it seems all to coincidental that when I pulled this relay that my drain has come back.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

zideman said:


> Battery Drain / Seatbelts QUESTION:
> 
> Hello to all and thank you in advance for any help in this matter. I had a parasitic battery drain that I could not figure out. I did a 3-day weekend full of research and devised that since my AUTO standard seat belts were not working properly (Drivers side did not go forward nor backward and is seemingly stuck between half and 2/3rds and passenger side goes when it wants to, which is minimally) that they were still drawing power all day/night when they didn't run their full course. I read that the relay and components were behind the DS rear quarter panel. I went in and pulled the big black relay. It almost looks to be a "double" relay if you will. I thought that the relay I pulled would stop both sides(according to thread research) but this morning I pulled the key and the PS went to the traveled the whole track like its supposed to. Now my battery drain has seemingly gone away but I thought when I pulled the relay (if I even pulled the right one) that the seat belts were powerless. I just want to make sure that A) I pulled the right relay and that B) my drain doesn't come back. So far my drain hasn't arisen and it seems all to coincidental that when I pulled this relay that my drain has come back.


 Each seatbelt has it's own relay, same spot other side, don't forget to pull fuses as well :thumbup:


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## zideman (Oct 23, 2004)

Glorious Señor Karmann! Thank you for the information. Where would I find the fuses? Are they in the same regions as the relays im pulling out or are they under the dash on the drivers side? I think I saw one in the region of the relay...cant recall 100%


----------



## MrBland (Jul 9, 2010)

Is it possible to temporarily remove the balance weight on the shift mechanism and still be able to drive fine? I'm having a bitch trying to get into Reverse, 1st, 3rd and 5th (not so much 5th) and found the counterweight to be flapping around, not really anchored anywhere and thus it's hitting and getting stuck on stuff. Anybody got any photos of how it should mount properly other than the Bently? I know it goes into the shift lever, but how's it supposed to stay in, there is no nut or threading...?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

zideman said:


> Glorious Señor Karmann! Thank you for the information. Where would I find the fuses? Are they in the same regions as the relays im pulling out or are they under the dash on the drivers side? I think I saw one in the region of the relay...cant recall 100%


 No problemo dood, ya, the fuses are 10a right next to the relays, can't recall if the seatbelts share a fuse on the fuseblock, don't think they do, but may wanna look into pulling that fuse too. I'd refer to the Bentley, but it's outside with my car waiting to go have some more wire pulling fun :what:


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## MrBland (Jul 9, 2010)

MrBland said:


> Is it possible to temporarily remove the balance weight on the shift mechanism and still be able to drive fine? I'm having a bitch trying to get into Reverse, 1st, 3rd and 5th (not so much 5th) and found the counterweight to be flapping around, not really anchored anywhere and thus it's hitting and getting stuck on stuff. Anybody got any photos of how it should mount properly other than the Bently? I know it goes into the shift lever, but how's it supposed to stay in, there is no nut or threading...?


 Ah, nevermind, I discovered the problem.... The spot that the counterweight and shift cable attach is sheared off. The top half of the end. :banghead: Anyone know where I can get a new shift lever?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

MrBland said:


> Anyone know where I can get a new shift lever?


 classifieds, 1stvwparts.com, gruvenparts.com...


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## Lagoyda50 (Apr 29, 2008)

i let my rado sit for a little. now i got like a foot of water on the passenger side carpets.....but nothing else is wet.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Lagoyda50 said:


> i let my rado sit for a little. now i got like a foot of water on the passenger side carpets.....but nothing else is wet.


 raintray drains are clogged


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

Lagoyda50 said:


> i let my rado sit for a little. now i got like a foot of water on the passenger side carpets.....but nothing else is wet.


 Or weather strip and plastic cover arent seated properly above the vent hole in the rain tray. My drains were clean but still had a lot of water. The plastic cover wasnt seated right under the weather strip causing it to leak.


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## Mikethegreat (Jan 24, 2010)

*obd1 to obd2*

Alright here is my question: I posses a 93 Vr6 SLC stock with distributor, most likely odb1, If I were to go obd2 what is needed for swap and where can i find the parts needed. Much appreciated. 
anyone?


----------



## mattalex123 (Oct 16, 2010)

Quick question: I have a 93 slc and the fog lights aren't working, I checked and fuse #10 was blown (15A), I replaced it and it just blew again. I believe that that fuse goes to the fogs but am not positive. What should my next step be? 
Thanks


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

mattalex123 said:


> Quick question: I have a 93 slc and the fog lights aren't working, I checked and fuse #10 was blown (15A), I replaced it and it just blew again. I believe that that fuse goes to the fogs but am not positive. What should my next step be?
> Thanks


 check the wiring for a short to ground, possibly a pinched or bare wire


----------



## erickramirez (Aug 2, 2008)

Someone said that when the doors are hard to open, all you need to do is lube up the door handles?? well how do you do this? what do you lube them with? etc? tia


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

erickramirez said:


> Someone said that when the doors are hard to open, all you need to do is lube up the door handles?? well how do you do this? what do you lube them with? etc? tia


 there could be a few reasons, sticky handle maybe, but more likely a striker either going bad or out of adjustment. Please describe exactly what's going on. 

to lube properly, you should pull the handle and use either dry graphite or white lithium grease. On the car, just shoot some graphite down in there :thumbup:


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

Does anybody have a picture of the outer door moldings? I need a shot of the corner by the mirror and triangle trim and on the opposite end near the quarter window. I was putting mine back together today and for some reason it looked a little odd and I just want to make sure I have it correct before I continue on to the other door. 

Also for the life of me I cannot get the door handle to sit flush to the door when installing them. Any suggestions? 

Also is there a way I can roll up my windows even tho I don't have any batter or wiring hooked up? The regulators are set in the down position.


----------



## Choppa6 (Jan 9, 2009)

My turn at the WTF table. Chad ( Sr Karmann ) gave me some thoughts, but I figured I'd ask anyway! 

Not all the time but frequently while drivin, I lose all power. Meaning, using the gas pedal and nothing happens. Hit the gas, nothing, Let go of the gas and I get some throttle. Hold down the gas pedal all the way and it sorta works itself out. Sometimes I have switch to a diff gear to keep movin. it really boggs down. I aint a real mechanic. I can do most the basic stuff, brakes, interior stupid stuff and what not! I cannot check Compression and the like. 

Obvious stuff to check? 

Thanks for the help in advance.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Choppa6 said:


> My turn at the WTF table. Chad ( Sr Karmann ) gave me some thoughts, but I figured I'd ask anyway!
> 
> Not all the time but frequently while drivin, I lose all power. Meaning, using the gas pedal and nothing happens. Hit the gas, nothing, Let go of the gas and I get some throttle. Hold down the gas pedal all the way and it sorta works itself out. Sometimes I have switch to a diff gear to keep movin. it really boggs down. I aint a real mechanic. I can do most the basic stuff, brakes, interior stupid stuff and what not! I cannot check Compression and the like.
> 
> ...


 G60?


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## Choppa6 (Jan 9, 2009)

Duhh! Yup, a G60! I sorta left that big piece of info out!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Choppa6 said:


> Duhh! Yup, a G60! I sorta left that big piece of info out!


 My guess is a bad coolant temp sensor and or bad o2 sensor. 

You can easily test the coolant temp sensor. Switch the two plugs on the coolant housing. If it continues to do it then probably not the coolant temp sensor and more than likely the o2 sensor.


----------



## erickramirez (Aug 2, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> there could be a few reasons, sticky handle maybe, but more likely a striker either going bad or out of adjustment. Please describe exactly what's going on.
> 
> to lube properly, you should pull the handle and use either dry graphite or white lithium grease. On the car, just shoot some graphite down in there :thumbup:


 
When i go to open the door on my car i will pull on the handle, and it will kinda get stuck, then ill pull a little harder and it will open, so like it needs an extra pull to open. its been like this for the past 2 years. handles also seem a little loose. so just white lithium grease?? thanks


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

erickramirez said:


> When i go to open the door on my car i will pull on the handle, and it will kinda get stuck, then ill pull a little harder and it will open, so like it needs an extra pull to open. its been like this for the past 2 years. handles also seem a little loose. so just white lithium grease?? thanks


 Sounds like a striker alignment issue, do you have the steel strikers installed?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

erickramirez said:


> When i go to open the door on my car i will pull on the handle, and it will kinda get stuck, then ill pull a little harder and it will open, so like it needs an extra pull to open. its been like this for the past 2 years. handles also seem a little loose. so just white lithium grease?? thanks


 
That's exactly what my symptoms are also  



Sr. Karmann said:


> Sounds like a striker alignment issue, do you have the steel strikers installed?


 I'm gonna take a look at it tomorrow...Chad, any info on how to "align the striker"?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> That's exactly what my symptoms are also
> 
> I'm gonna take a look at it tomorrow...Chad, any info on how to "align the striker"?


 Not that I know of without the steel striker conversion. There is a striker on the handle that is made of pot metal & plastic, they wear and often break. There needs to be full contact with the striker on the door latch, you can see where they mate with the handle pulled from the door just a bit. I highly recommend the steel striker conversion and mine "is" adjustable :thumbup: 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1823097


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Not that I know of without the steel striker conversion. There is a striker on the handle that is made of pot metal & plastic, they wear and often break. There needs to be full contact with the striker on the door latch, you can see where they mate with the handle pulled from the door just a bit. I highly recommend the steel striker conversion and mine "is" adjustable :thumbup:


 Haha, I also posted that video a few days ago in another door handle related thread  


Ok, so I took out the door handle and everything seems to be fine on it. Operates very smoothly when not on the car. Sprayed some white lithium grease on it just in case. 

Now, with the door handle removed from the vehicle, when I try to open the door by pressing the "tab" inside the door handle hole, the same symptoms occurs (difficulty/hard on opening). So my thoughts are that the problem is on the latch mechanism itself. Unfortunately rain caught on me so gonna give it a try tomorrow, this should be an easy fix


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## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

*slc brake bleeding*

So its my first time bleeding the brakes on my Corrado and Im looking to see if someone can hit me with a thread on how to properly do this...with an abs system of course...I did a search but couldnt really find anything too helpful for a noob. thanks.


----------



## Ex-ricer01 (Jan 28, 2009)

1991 g60, i broke the door handle a couple weeks ago, my own fault for being to violent. so i left it in, didnt want to take it out so i can atleast lock and unlock... i have to park in some shady places sometimes. so i leave it unbolted so i can just remove it and sneak in thru the driver door everytime and i just put the handle back into place. 

for a couple days its been arcing every time i take it out, broken wire (havent been able to find a replacement handle locally yet) 

noticed today it doesnt arc anymore... power locks dont work anymore either, nor do the windows roll up or down. no fuses for any of those circuits. can anyone point me in a possible direction before i start back probing all the connector? 

also, master window switch doesnt smell burnt, and the pass sied one isnt working either. 

thanks 


edit: figured it out, found the fuse above the fuse box


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

Im still having random misfires and shut offs so i went to check the timing and im not sure what sight hole to use its an automatic and there is a hole and an oval. I assume the hash mark must be in the center of one of them.


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

Update: I unpluged the o2 sensor and it doesent miss but is running 11.5 to 12.5 afr at idle. Is it the o2 sensor that's bad?


----------



## mattalex123 (Oct 16, 2010)

I am starting to get attacked my the black foam, and for some reason my climate directional knob wont let me switch to defrost. Are these related and is there anyway to fix them without pulling the dash?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

dfuze1 said:


> So its my first time bleeding the brakes on my Corrado and Im looking to see if someone can hit me with a thread on how to properly do this...with an abs system of course...I did a search but couldnt really find anything too helpful for a noob. thanks.


Bleed just like any other car 
Google works "bleed corrado"



nu2dubbing said:


> Im still having random misfires and shut offs so i went to check the timing and im not sure what sight hole to use its an automatic and there is a hole and an oval. I assume the hash mark must be in the center of one of them.


There is a nick in the crank pulley aligned with an arrow on the lower timing cover



nu2dubbing said:


> Update: I unpluged the o2 sensor and it doesent miss but is running 11.5 to 12.5 afr at idle. Is it the o2 sensor that's bad?


why would an unplugged o2 cause a misfire?



mattalex123 said:


> I am starting to get attacked my the black foam, and for some reason my climate directional knob wont let me switch to defrost. Are these related and is there anyway to fix them without pulling the dash?


You can pull your hvac controls w/o pulling the dash as well as cluster, glove box and knee pads, I'd say start there(HVAC controls) and you can pull your vents and carefully remove the foam :thumbup:


----------



## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

Lets see if I can do this the right way finally...

year of car, motor type, any modifications you know of: 1990 G60 8v Stage 4 everything. Kompressor Kanada charger, ISV reroute, SNS chip, pulley, cam, bigger FPR, borla exhaust, Bilstien PSS9 coil overs and a ton more stuff. 

issue at hand: I have a question on the normal water temp gauge operating temperature. 

your ability to work on cars (be honest on this one): I can do everything except machine shop work (because I don't have a machine shop)

ok, ask away...........

I have owned the car for several weeks. I have only driven it a few times. Had an overheating problem the last few times I drove it. Nothing major, just venting out of the overflow tank. I was close to home so I was able to shut it down immediately. The problem was the fan wasn't turning on. I checked the radiator hoses and the upper was hot, the lower was cold. 
I don't recall what the water temp gauge was reading at the time prior to the problem or after because I just got the car and have only drove it a few times. 
Thanks..


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## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

I know how to set the motor to tdc I just need to know what hole to shine the timing light at on a auto trans is it the circle or oval there right next to each other. Also unpluging the o2 fixed my problem so I'm assuming I have a bad o2


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jgcable said:


> Lets see if I can do this the right way finally...
> 
> year of car, motor type, any modifications you know of: 1990 G60 8v Stage 4 everything. Kompressor Kanada charger, ISV reroute, SNS chip, pulley, cam, bigger FPR, borla exhaust, Bilstien PSS9 coil overs and a ton more stuff.
> 
> ...



Sounds like a thermostat


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

jgcable said:


> Lets see if I can do this the right way finally...
> 
> year of car, motor type, any modifications you know of: 1990 G60 8v Stage 4 everything. Kompressor Kanada charger, ISV reroute, SNS chip, pulley, cam, bigger FPR, borla exhaust, Bilstien PSS9 coil overs and a ton more stuff.
> 
> ...


What burns said, but I did alot of work to mine and found out I had a clogged hose. I would change t-stat, check inside the res when the car is running and see if there is a steady stream of coolant entering the bottle, check the rad for flow and change out your two coolant temp sensors for new. 

After doing all that, if it is still running hot, you may want to check the coolant for exhaust gasses...



nu2dubbing said:


> I know how to set the motor to tdc I just need to know what hole to shine the timing light at on a auto trans is it the circle or oval there right next to each other. Also unpluging the o2 fixed my problem so I'm assuming I have a bad o2


The mark I was talking about was what I used to time my car with a timing light(although, I did verify with hole in trans), just put a little whiteout in the notch on the cam pulley.


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## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> What burns said, but I did alot of work to mine and found out I had a clogged hose. I would change t-stat, check inside the res when the car is running and see if there is a steady stream of coolant entering the bottle, check the rad for flow and change out your two coolant temp sensors for new.
> 
> After doing all that, if it is still running hot, you may want to check the coolant for exhaust gasses...
> 
> ...


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

yup, sounds like the TStat isnt opening up all the way. I would start there, but your fans are obviously working.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

JG, a very sought after mod to the cooling system are lower temp thermostat(to open at 170*) and thermoswitch(to kick your fans on earlier), because the cooling system is not the best at the parameters set by VW. I would seriously recommend those 2 to get your temps down to range, but 200-220 is normal at idle. What are your oil temps? have you taken it out for a drive since?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> JG, a very sought after mod to the cooling system are lower temp thermostat(to open at 170*) and thermoswitch(to kick your fans on earlier), because the cooling system is not the best at the parameters set by VW. I would seriously recommend those 2 to get your temps down to range, but 200-220 is normal at idle. What are your oil temps? have you taken it out for a drive since?


yes a 200 degree temp is normal.

From what he was describing it sounds more and more like head gasket. Also green coolant is a no no in VW's


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## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> yes a 200 degree temp is normal.
> 
> From what he was describing it sounds more and more like head gasket. Also green coolant is a no no in VW's


Head gasket was done 8K ago when the cam was replaced.


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## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> yes a 200 degree temp is normal.
> 
> From what he was describing it sounds more and more like head gasket. Also green coolant is a no no in VW's



I replaced the coolant with standard green coolant only because that was what was in the car. What coolant do you recommend? Is it something I could get at Autozone or Carquest? 
Why is the green coolant a no no?


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## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> JG, a very sought after mod to the cooling system are lower temp thermostat(to open at 170*) and thermoswitch(to kick your fans on earlier), because the cooling system is not the best at the parameters set by VW. I would seriously recommend those 2 to get your temps down to range, but 200-220 is normal at idle. What are your oil temps? have you taken it out for a drive since?


I talked to a few of the local auto parts guys I deal with all the time when I ordered the thermoswitch and the thermostat and they both told me to go with stock because the lower temp thermostat and thermoswitch will not react with the computer correctly. I didn't understand that because according to the Bentley schematic, they have little or nothing to do with the computer. 
The told me the faster I could get the car up to operating temp of around 210 the better. 
I am assuming my temp is around there because its not very clear on the gauge. 
My USA gauge goes from 160 to 230 and above with 3 lines in between the 160 and the 230 marks so I assume its 
160, 178, 196, 214, 230 which means my fan is kicking on at between 200 and 210 and staying consistant at 210.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> yes a 200 degree temp is normal.
> 
> From what he was describing it sounds more and more like head gasket. Also green coolant is a no no in VW's


That's why I said check for exhaust gasses in coolant ....:laugh:



jgcable said:


> I replaced the coolant with standard green coolant only because that was what was in the car. What coolant do you recommend? Is it something I could get at Autozone or Carquest?
> Why is the green coolant a no no?


Cause it is junk and will corrode your system. Go to your local VW dealer and grab a bottle of G12 coolant, mix 50/50 with distilled water for the best heat dissipation and corrosion resistance. And, I DO RECOMMEND T-STAT & THERMOSWITCH REPLACEMENT!!!

the 80*C one.... http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Cooling/213/1

and low temp one of these... http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Cooling/208/1

Probly the best $25 you can throw at your G60 :thumbup:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

jgcable said:


> I talked to a few of the local auto parts guys I deal with all the time when I ordered the thermoswitch and the thermostat and they both told me to go with stock because the lower temp thermostat and thermoswitch will not react with the computer correctly. I didn't understand that because according to the Bentley schematic, they have little or nothing to do with the computer.
> The told me the faster I could get the car up to operating temp of around 210 the better.
> I am assuming my temp is around there because its not very clear on the gauge.
> My USA gauge goes from 160 to 230 and above with 3 lines in between the 160 and the 230 marks so I assume its
> 160, 178, 196, 214, 230 which means my fan is kicking on at between 200 and 210 and staying consistant at 210.


That's because they are not G60 owners, probly not even VW for that matter 

210 is perfect, IIRC 216 is normal operating temperature for a G60, but I like to keep it on the cool side for spirited driving application


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> That's why I said check for exhaust gasses in coolant ....:laugh:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


What would happen if I combined the lower temp thermoswitch (85-80/93-88) with the standard temp (87c) thermostat? I have the standard temp thermostat now but was considering that cooler switch to kick the fan on sooner.


----------



## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> That's because they are not G60 owners, probly not even VW for that matter
> 
> 210 is perfect, IIRC 216 is normal operating temperature for a G60, but I like to keep it on the cool side for spirited driving application


I don't hammer on the car. I just drive it normally and occassionally get on it a little but basically I just drive it normally. I have never been a fast driver. I like to have the power if I need it but I rarely use it. This car will probably never hit the redline on any shift for as long as I will own it. About a 4500 rpm shift is max for me. 

I'll keep an eye on it and drive around for a while. I am about to take the car off the road for the winter so over the winter months I will replace the thermoswitch and the thermostat again. I think I will do the coolant now though. Damn.. that thermostat was a pain but now that I got the 5 power steering bracket bolts off it shouldn't be that bad to replace the T-Stat again.


----------



## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> What would happen if I combined the lower temp thermoswitch (85-80/93-88) with the standard temp (87c) thermostat? I have the standard temp thermostat now but was considering that cooler switch to kick the fan on sooner.


The radiator thermo switch will only activate once the coolant is warm enough. Your fan won't kick on until the thermostat opens regardless of what temp the thermoswitch is. 
Correct me if I am wrong forum guru's.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

jgcable said:


> The radiator thermo switch will only activate once the coolant is warm enough. Your fan won't kick on until the thermostat opens regardless of what temp the thermoswitch is.
> Correct me if I am wrong forum guru's.


I believe that is correct. So by having the standard 95-84/102-91 thermoswitch installed now, my thermostat is opening at standard temp but the fans aren't kicking on until the engine gets hotter than I'd like it to be running at.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> What would happen if I combined the lower temp thermoswitch (85-80/93-88) with the standard temp (87c) thermostat? I have the standard temp thermostat now but was considering that cooler switch to kick the fan on sooner.


you'd be fine, but you live in the south, so why not just do them both, you have to drain the coolant anyway



jgcable said:


> I'll keep an eye on it and drive around for a while. I am about to take the car off the road for the winter so over the winter months I will replace the thermoswitch and the thermostat again. I think I will do the coolant now though. Damn.. that thermostat was a pain but now that I got the 5 power steering bracket bolts off it shouldn't be that bad to replace the T-Stat again.


:thumbup: but you wont want to be driving without the acc belt secure with the lower bracket, it does drive your water pump


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> you'd be fine, but you live in the south, so why not just do them both, you have to drain the coolant anyway


I have to drain the coolant to change the thermoswitch? I figured I could just work fast and switch 'em! :thumbup:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> I have to drain the coolant to change the thermoswitch? I figured I could just work fast and switch 'em! :thumbup:


hahaha, wishful thinking bro, and if your like sooper dooper oooooooper fast, NO :laugh:

That is one of the lowest points, and chances are if you drain it from the lower coolant hose, the block will retain most of it, unless you have a t-stat with a vent, then yes most of it will come out.

Was thinking about this earlier, still a little fuzzy from this weekend :beer::beer: but with the low twmp thermoswitch and stock t-stat, you WILL be giving the t-stat a good workout


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> hahaha, wishful thinking bro, and if your like sooper dooper oooooooper fast, NO :laugh:
> 
> That is one of the lowest points, and chances are if you drain it from the lower coolant hose, the block will retain most of it, unless you have a t-stat with a vent, then yes most of it will come out.
> 
> Was thinking about this earlier, still a little fuzzy from this weekend :beer::beer: but with the low twmp thermoswitch and stock t-stat, you WILL be giving the t-stat a good workout


hmmm maybe I'll just leave well enough alone... it holds the temp nicely right in the middle of the gauge, and starts to warm up a little at redlights (but the fans kick on before catastrophe sets in).


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

iAco said:


> Does anybody have a picture of the outer door moldings? I need a shot of the corner by the mirror and triangle trim and on the opposite end near the quarter window. I was putting mine back together today and for some reason it looked a little odd and I just want to make sure I have it correct before I continue on to the other door.
> 
> Also for the life of me I cannot get the door handle to sit flush to the door when installing them. Any suggestions?
> 
> Also is there a way I can roll up my windows even tho I don't have any batter or wiring hooked up? The regulators are set in the down position.


Anybody?


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

If I had my car with me at the shop I'd snap a pic for ya. The door handles should just go in -- not sure how / why they wouldn't sit flush. I don't have an answer on the windows either. More than likely my response is the same as everyone else that has looked at this so far too! Maybe Mr. Burninator can chime in later on... hang in there. :thumbup:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

iAco said:


> Anybody?


I would snap a pic, but my wiring is in pieces on my floor, no way to power up ATM.

Door handles, sounds like they are binding somewhere inside, look closely from inside and out. 

You can unbolt the window from the regulator and slide them up by hand, 2 10mm bolts, then shim them up with a piece of wood or something, just be sure to shim it good, possibly even tape the tops so they don't come crashing down, you may also be able to get a small clamp on the inside to protect it further. You could possibly power up your window control module, but you'd have to be real careful in doing so and have all that wiring on lock if you were going to attempt this method.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Karmann... dunno if you saw my last post, but I figure I'll just leave well enough alone... it holds the temp nicely right in the middle of the gauge, and starts to warm up a little at redlights (but the fans kick on before catastrophe sets in).


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Karmann... dunno if you saw my last post, but I figure I'll just leave well enough alone... it holds the temp nicely right in the middle of the gauge, and starts to warm up a little at redlights (but the fans kick on before catastrophe sets in).


ya man, I saw it  If it ain't broke, you had better fix it soon :laugh:


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> ya man, I saw it  If it ain't broke, you had better fix it soon :laugh:


I'm just going to pretend the whole discussion never happened.


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## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

My rado goes though oil like there is no tomorrow. It seems like im adding some every 3 weeks or so. I know I'm not leaking any either. Is this somewhat normal for a Vr or is there a more serious problem?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> I'm just going to pretend the whole discussion never happened.


:laugh:



bpodlesnik said:


> My rado goes though oil like there is no tomorrow. It seems like im adding some every 3 weeks or so. I know I'm not leaking any either. Is this somewhat normal for a Vr or is there a more serious problem?


not normal and I would address it asap, I have to ask, are you burning it?


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## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> not normal and I would address it asap, I have to ask, are you burning it?


I don't think, no. There is no unusual smell or smoke or anything so I'm not real sure.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

bpodlesnik said:


> I don't think, no. There is no unusual smell or smoke or anything so I'm not real sure.


check your oil, does it have a milky look on the dipstick, like chocolate milk? It's going somewhere, either leaking out of the motor(gasket, seal or bolt)(maybe somewhere you can't see, i.e. transmission side), being burnt (bad rings or cylinder wall scoring), leaking into coolant system (head gasket or damaged head) unless there is something totally amiss and is vaporizing rapidly and going thru your intake, if that were the case, you'd probably smell it in the exhaust (check for oil in the intake aft of breather) is she running unusually hot? I have seen some VRT's throw alot of oil into the oil catch can...


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## steezbox (Feb 6, 2007)

Alright ladies, I'm putting my vr6 back together. On the camshaft cover, the passenger side oil passage has a bunch of copper wire plugged in there. The tube would run from the MAF. I pulled it out for now. Question, WTF is there coiled copper wire doing in my oil passage? Is this some ghetto ass East German restrictor or filter? Did it get spit out of something else and get lodged here? Should it stay, or should it go?

92 vr6.

thankee


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## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> you'd be fine, but you live in the south, so why not just do them both, you have to drain the coolant anyway
> 
> 
> 
> :thumbup: but you wont want to be driving without the acc belt secure with the lower bracket, it does drive your water pump


Went out tonight in the car. Drove around for about 15 minutes, temp was about 190 on the gauge, I tried the heat and I go a TON of it, and everything seemed good until all of a sudden my coolant light started flashing even though my temp gauge looked fine. I blasted the heat and drove it home into the garage and opened the hood and found the problem...
Low on coolant in the overflow tank. When I put the heat on the heatercore must have filled up with coolant and the level went down enough to make the light flash. I let the car cool off and I added coolant and went back out for a 30 minute drive. Everything was perfect. Temp on the gauge was right around 200 and the fan was only kicking on every few minutes for a minute or so tops. Its cold here tonight. 42 degrees. I checked the oil temp too with the MAF at that time and the oil was reading 204 degrees. 
I am thinking that everything is good to go. 
Quick question though about the coolant. I used the green stuff because I didn't know any better and that is what was in the car when I bought it and I was supposed to use the pink stuff. 
How do I fully flush the green stuff out of my car. If I run a hose through the radiator I can clean it out pretty good no problem If I run a hose down the radiator hose I can clean out the engine block until clear water is only coming out but how do I clean out the heater core? Do I turn the ignition to the on position and turn the heat on to open the valve into the heater core?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

jgcable said:


> Went out tonight in the car. Drove around for about 15 minutes, temp was about 190 on the gauge, I tried the heat and I go a TON of it, and everything seemed good until all of a sudden my coolant light started flashing even though my temp gauge looked fine. I blasted the heat and drove it home into the garage and opened the hood and found the problem...
> Low on coolant in the overflow tank. When I put the heat on the heatercore must have filled up with coolant and the level went down enough to make the light flash. I let the car cool off and I added coolant and went back out for a 30 minute drive. Everything was perfect. Temp on the gauge was right around 200 and the fan was only kicking on every few minutes for a minute or so tops. Its cold here tonight. 42 degrees. I checked the oil temp too with the MAF at that time and the oil was reading 204 degrees.
> I am thinking that everything is good to go.
> Quick question though about the coolant. I used the green stuff because I didn't know any better and that is what was in the car when I bought it and I was supposed to use the pink stuff.
> How do I fully flush the green stuff out of my car. If I run a hose through the radiator I can clean it out pretty good no problem If I run a hose down the radiator hose I can clean out the engine block until clear water is only coming out but how do I clean out the heater core? Do I turn the ignition to the on position and turn the heat on to open the valve into the heater core?


Man, the idea of an air pocket in the head had crossed my mind, looks like that's what you had. Proper way would be to drain "ALL" coolant, re-fill with distilled water, run, rinse and repeat till the water drained is clear. I cheated with running tap water, not ideal, but...


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## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

jgcable said:


> Quick question though about the coolant. I used the green stuff because I didn't know any better and that is what was in the car when I bought it and I was supposed to use the pink stuff.
> How do I fully flush the green stuff out of my car. If I run a hose through the radiator I can clean it out pretty good no problem If I run a hose down the radiator hose I can clean out the engine block until clear water is only coming out but how do I clean out the heater core? Do I turn the ignition to the on position and turn the heat on to open the valve into the heater core?


I'll take this one because I just did this tonight with my new radiator. 

1st. Cheap Green coolant = *Yuck.* like burny and Karmann said. You WILL want to flush and replace it with G12.

G12 is the current VW coolant which is both expensive and very good coolant. It will run you about $23.00 / Gallon @ the VW dealership. Buy two, these gallons are concentrated so you will have to mix 1 gallon of coolant with 1 gallon of distilled water from Wal Mart or wherever you can find distilled Water. 50 / 50 mix is key. In the end you will have 4 Gallons of 50/50 mixed G12 Coolant.

Now for flushing. Have 4-5 gallon jugs full of distilled water at the ready. Tap water will work but it does have some molecules in it that aren't present in Distilled water. The purer the H2O the better. However it will work just fine.

1. start you corrado and let it warm up *with the HEAT on* until the coolant is above 160 where the thermostat is OPEN. 

2. turn off your car, and remove the lower radiator hose. let the coolant drain. Watch the level in the evap tank, do not let it run empty. continue filling it with the water. 

3. When the hose and radiator stops dripping that means the thermostat is closed and it is time to reconnect the radiator hose and warm your coolant up again.

4. while your car is warming up, watch the coolant level to make sure it does not empty. add water as necessary.

5. Once the coolant temp is up above 160 again you should re-remove the lower radiator hose and drain the coolant again... remember to make sure NOT to let the evap tank empty, add water until the coolant stops draining again.

*/NOTE/* I had to do this 4 times, until all that came out of the coolant hose and radiator was clear water.Then proceed to step 6.

*/SUBNOTE/*It is crucial that you not mix green, or G11 Coolant with G12. These coolants do NOT interact well. they will cause cooling system issues if they come in contact with one another. Be absolutely certain that the green coolant is OUT of your engine before adding ANY G12.

6. Now that your drained coolant is nothing but water perform 1 more warm up cycle. This time when you disconnect the lower radiator hose. use your newly mixed G12 to fill the reservoir instead of water. You want to get as much of the rinse water out of your car as you can so that you know that was is in the cooling system is 50 / 50 G12 for best antifreeze performance. You will know that the "rinse" water is out of the car when you notice that the draining coolant is pink.

7. *Optional but I did it because I'm a little OCD.* Once it stops draining, re-attach the lower radiator hose and run the cycle of warm up one more time. This time when it is warm, disconnect the lower radiator hose 1 more time just for a short while to verify that PINK G12 coolant comes out. Reconnect it quickly and top off coolant with your G12 as needed. Then, clean up and take your car for a drive to allow any air bubbles to work their way to the evap tank. Once you get back top off your evap tank as needed.


*/last note/* Remember to dispose of the waste coolant and rinse water as safely as possible, check local listings for coolant and chemical disposal locations.

:beer:

The alternative is to take your car to a shop that stocks VW g12 and ask them to flush your system and refill it with G12... Thats the easy way!


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## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

TheLateJetta said:


> I'll take this one because I just did this tonight with my new radiator.
> 
> 1st. Cheap Green coolant = *Yuck.* like burny and Karmann said. You WILL want to flush and replace it with G12.
> 
> ...


I found a recent service record for my car from the previous owner and it states that the coolant was flushed and G11 with distilled water was used. When I did the thermostat and drained the system the coolant was green. I assumed that the green was standard Prestone or Peak 50/50 so that is what I replaced it with. Now I am reading that G11 is blue. 
One more thing... you mention to run the car with the heat on until the thermostat opens above 160 degrees, my OEM thermostat opens at 192 degrees. When I remove the lower radiator hose at that temp and at that pressure isn't it extremely hot and dangerous. I never removed a radiator hose when a car was at operating temp.


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## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Man, the idea of an air pocket in the head had crossed my mind, looks like that's what you had. Proper way would be to drain "ALL" coolant, re-fill with distilled water, run, rinse and repeat till the water drained is clear. I cheated with running tap water, not ideal, but...


stupid question but.. where did you disconnect your lower radiator hose. Is it at the connection from the hose connected to the bottom of the radiator to the hard intermediate pipe? Its the only connection that is actually accessible to my eyes.
Also, when the thermostat finally opens the coolant is at 192 degrees and under alot of pressure. What happens when you pull a hose at that temp and pressure. In my 30 years of wrenching cars I have never removed a radiator hose when a motor was at full operating temp! I've removed a radiator cap and got the giant pressure relief and the bubble over out of the radiator but never a hose.


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## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

jgcable said:


> I never removed a radiator hose when a car was at operating temp.


 I sent you a PM. 
For anyone else reading. If you have your evap tank cap off, pressure is not high and with proper protection, its not that hott.

G11 can range from light green to almost a blue color depending on mixture and age of the coolant. 

G11= Blue / Green
G12= Pinkish / Purplish



jgcable said:


> stupid question but.. where did you disconnect your lower radiator hose.


 Also in my PM
Its on the same side as the upper rad hose below the temp sensor, its a bitch to get at in my VR, I guarantee you'll have better luck in a G60.


Also, G12 is the new Kool Aid. Its awesome and it knows it. I recommend that anyone with G11 or Cheap coolant *Flush Thoroughly* and change to G12.

G11 is great and works awesome, however VW is phasing out G11. G12 FTW


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## steezbox (Feb 6, 2007)

steezbox said:


> Alright ladies, I'm putting my vr6 back together. On the camshaft cover, the passenger side oil passage has a bunch of copper wire plugged in there. The tube would run from the MAF. I pulled it out for now. Question, WTF is there coiled copper wire doing in my oil passage? Is this some ghetto ass East German restrictor or filter? Did it get spit out of something else and get lodged here? Should it stay, or should it go?
> 
> 92 vr6.


Never mind, answered my own question. Yes it is supposed to be there, its purpose is to keep oil from condensing at the throttle body (though it does a poor job at it).


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## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

steezbox said:


> Never mind.


Sorry man, I actually had no idea how to answer your question. I was hoping someone else would but I'm glad you got it figured out.


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## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> check your oil, does it have a milky look on the dipstick, like chocolate milk? It's going somewhere, either leaking out of the motor(gasket, seal or bolt)(maybe somewhere you can't see, i.e. transmission side), being burnt (bad rings or cylinder wall scoring), leaking into coolant system (head gasket or damaged head) unless there is something totally amiss and is vaporizing rapidly and going thru your intake, if that were the case, you'd probably smell it in the exhaust (check for oil in the intake aft of breather) is she running unusually hot? I have seen some VRT's throw alot of oil into the oil catch can...


Well on my way to school today temps were reading about 210 and that was with me takin it easy. Is that relatively high? Also the oil isn't really that old, I mean I gave a complete change about 3 months ago


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

bpodlesnik said:


> Well on my way to school today temps were reading about 210 and that was with me takin it easy. Is that relatively high? Also the oil isn't really that old, I mean I gave a complete change about 3 months ago


Oil temps at 210? nothing at all....coolant....meh, a little warm, unless you are down here in Florida, i avereage about 200-210 in traffic, 170 at night and moving. 

Easiest way to tell if you are burning oil, pull the PCV with the car running, and see if smoke comes out. 

Another place is to pull the bottom cover off the trans/oil pan and see if your rear main is leaking. 

One thing being in the Auto Service industry I can clue you in on, is all cars are consuming more oil due to the federal government banning the use of zinc in oil for the last year. A lot of customers are coming to us for this same issue, shortly after an oil change being low. 

Tried valve seals and bad rings on VR6's are what usually cause oil consumption. 

Check EVERYWHERE for leaks. Let us know.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

TheLateJetta said:


> */last note/* Remember to dispose of the waste coolant and rinse water as safely as possible, check local listings for coolant and chemical disposal locations.


I suggest putting it into small containers and leaving it out for the neighbors cat that keeps walking on top of your car.

Make sure it is in a hidden place so no one can see it but the cats can find it.

Also... a little bit of this to add to the fun :wave:


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## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Oil temps at 210? nothing at all....coolant....meh, a little warm, unless you are down here in Florida, i avereage about 200-210 in traffic, 170 at night and moving.
> 
> Easiest way to tell if you are burning oil, pull the PCV with the car running, and see if smoke comes out.
> 
> ...


okay. I will check all of that tomorrow when I dont have work or school. Thanks :thumbup:


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## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

TheLateJetta said:


> I sent you a PM.
> For anyone else reading. If you have your evap tank cap off, pressure is not high and with proper protection, its not that hott.
> 
> G11 can range from light green to almost a blue color depending on mixture and age of the coolant.
> ...


I called several local auto parts stores looking for G11 coolant and they all gave me the same response. A few looked it up in their computers, others gave me the answer immediately. 
They all told me that I should use ZEREX DEX COOL. They told me it is the GM equivalent to G11 and their computer systems list if for my car. 
$11.99 per gallon premixed already. 
None of them could even order the G11 for me. They told me to go to a VW dealer if I want to pay through the nose for it. If I don't, I can always swing by and pick up the Zerex Dex Cool which according to them is exactly the same thing as the G11. 
With that kind of information being given out I would think there must be a ton of older VW's running around with the wrong coolant in them. How would a normal owner who isn't a member of a forum going to know they are putting the wrong coolant in their cars? 
I will swing by the local dealership and pick up the G11 although paying $11.99 for a gallon of it and being able to pick it up a mile away is tempting.


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## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

I called the local VW dealership. They no longer carry G11. They only carry G12. 
$22.00/gallon concentrated. 
That means I would only need 1 gallon because I only need 3 quarts of coolant and 3 quarts of distilled water. 
Still, that Dex Cool is tempting for $11.99 already mixed!


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Trust me, we inform customers all the time of the coolant differences, sometimes after they eat the cylinder head and blow the headgasket. Not a pretty thing. 

Do not use the Dex Cool, it is not phosphate free and will eventually eat the cylinder head/ and /or gasket. 

We have seen green coolant cause seepage into a 1.8t, and cause a piston to distort totaling a motor. Do not let that happen to you. 

If you flush the system, you can use the g12 or g12 plus, but g11 will still work fine.


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> Trust me, we inform customers all the time of the coolant differences, sometimes after they eat the cylinder head and blow the headgasket. Not a pretty thing.
> 
> Do not use the Dex Cool, it is not phosphate free and will eventually eat the cylinder head/ and /or gasket.
> 
> ...


Does G11 play nice with parts-store green "compatible with all makes" coolant?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Does G11 play nice with parts-store green "compatible with all makes" coolant?


Ive seen it mixed, and it was still in fluid form, but still wouldn't do it. 
If you want to see molasses get made, mix g11 and g12. its awesome looking. :banghead:


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## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Bite the bullet, pay the extra and buy g12 its under $25 and you will most likely spread that $25 over several years.
:thumbup:


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## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

For G11, I use Pentosin Blue

http://www.germanautoparts.com/Chemicals/Coolants/Pentosin

G12 available here too:

http://www.germanautoparts.com/Chemicals/Coolants/VW-Audi

Lloyd


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## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

Yea, for the $23.00 its going to cost me I am going with the G12. I will do a full complete flush/rinse and put the G12 in. I don't want to take a chance with this car since its so nice. 
I just thought it was interesting about what the autoparts stores all say. Even the good ones!


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## trek--morin (Oct 1, 2007)

Okay so quick/stupid question... 

Early HVAC controls, when i switch from face or defrost to foot there is a pump/motor kind of noise coming from the dash.. Never had that before, it sound like the duct are changing position or idk lol!

And also how come there is no face and feet position for heat but only for AC?? In late/MK3 style u can put the knob in the middle but my slider seem to be one position only..


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

I'm about to purchase/replace tie rod ends on my '90 Corrado G60.
There's a significant price difference between an oem set and an aftermarket (oe quality) set. The "stealer" wants like double the price (and thats after my special customer discount ) than the aftermarket ones...Any benefits using oem ones?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

trek--morin said:


> Okay so quick/stupid question...
> 
> Early HVAC controls, when i switch from face or defrost to foot there is a pump/motor kind of noise coming from the dash.. Never had that before, it sound like the duct are changing position or idk lol!
> 
> And also how come there is no face and feet position for heat but only for AC?? In late/MK3 style u can put the knob in the middle but my slider seem to be one position only..


noise is normal, noisy actuator



RedYellowWhite said:


> I'm about to purchase/replace tie rod ends on my '90 Corrado G60.
> There's a significant price difference between an oem set and an aftermarket (oe quality) set. The "stealer" wants like double the price (and thats after my special customer discount ) than the aftermarket ones...Any benefits using oem ones?


I replaced mine with the ones from germanautoparts, but wouldn't recommend going cheap cheap :thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> noise is normal, noisy actuator
> 
> 
> 
> I replaced mine with the ones from germanautoparts, but wouldn't recommend going cheap cheap :thumbup:


A lot of companies (like us) sell the Febi Bilstein brand as aftermarket, and those are a good brand.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> ...I replaced mine with the ones from germanautoparts, but wouldn't recommend going cheap cheap :thumbup:





[email protected] said:


> A lot of companies (like us) sell the Febi Bilstein brand as aftermarket, and those are a good brand.


Thanks both :thumbup:

I actually haven't looked for what brand are the aftermarket ones, will call them tomorrow to find out and I'll report back


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

I sell the Febi/Bilstiens at work too....

NO on "FEQ" brand.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Thanks both :thumbup:
> 
> I actually haven't looked for what brand are the aftermarket ones, will call them tomorrow to find out and I'll report back


:thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> I sell the Febi/Bilstiens at work too....
> 
> NO on "FEQ" brand.


Where are you working at? Still in O-town, I assume?


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## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

*Fog lenses*

Does anyone know of a way to remove fog lenses without having to break the glass? Any techniques would be greatly appreciated!

:beer::beer:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> Does anyone know of a way to remove fog lenses without having to break the glass? Any techniques would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> :beer::beer:


I've heard, put them in the oven to melt the glue


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## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I've heard, put them in the oven to melt the glue


That would probably work, do you know what temp and for how long? I am scared I would melt the surroundings as well lol.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> That would probably work, do you know what temp and for how long? I am scared I would melt the surroundings as well lol.


Don't really know, just did a random google search and saw the method, but no reference to temp or time, but did say melt the glue a bit, then hit it with a sharp knife. The housings should be relatively heat resistant due to high heat from the bulb. Another guy used a heat gun

the search... http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=fog+lense+removal+corrado


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## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Don't really know, just did a random google search and saw the method, but no reference to temp or time, but did say melt the glue a bit, then hit it with a sharp knife. The housings should be relatively heat resistant due to high heat from the bulb. Another guy used a heat gun
> 
> the search... http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=fog+lense+removal+corrado


Thanks for the idea I will give it a try.


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## RowBoatsVdubs (Mar 18, 2008)

my tilt decided to not lock in place anymore...

Is this common? Can it be fixed or must it be replaced??


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Thanks both :thumbup:
> 
> I actually haven't looked for what brand are the aftermarket ones, will call them tomorrow to find out and I'll report back


Ok, they are TRW and they are half the price than the oem from the dealer...What would you recommend?


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Ok, they are TRW and they are half the price than the oem from the dealer...What would you recommend?


TRW is a good brand...


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> TRW is a good brand...


Cool thanks, I'll be ordering the TRW ones tomorrow then  :beer:


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## FullThrottleORL (Oct 28, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> Where are you working at? Still in O-town, I assume?


Yessir, 



RowBoatsVdubs said:


> my tilt decided to not lock in place anymore...
> 
> Is this common? Can it be fixed or must it be replaced??


Pull the Column Covers off and you will see the tilt selector pin backed out towards the right side of the column. 
Push the selector pin back in, JB weld the end of it, never worry about it backing out again. 
:thumbup:


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## FullThrottleORL (Oct 28, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> TRW is a good brand...


TRW is also the OE supplier for racks...so it is an OEM part, just not through the dealer. :thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

FullThrottleORL said:


> Yessir,


Cool!


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

FullThrottleORL said:


> TRW is also the OE supplier for racks...so it is an OEM part, just not through the dealer. :thumbup:


:thumbup: Sweet 

...^^William aka "DUBZAK"? ...........


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> I sell the Febi/Bilstiens at work too....
> 
> NO on "FEQ" brand.


What about the Meyle ones? Those are the ones that ECS sells.


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## FullThrottleORL (Oct 28, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> :thumbup: Sweet
> 
> ...^^William aka "DUBZAK"? ...........


:laugh: 


cyberstasi the Meyle ones are ok, they might be produced in China even though they are a German part manufacturer. Still an OEM supplier so should pass quality checks.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

FullThrottleORL said:


> :laugh:
> 
> 
> cyberstasi the Meyle ones are ok, they might be produced in China even though they are a German part manufacturer. Still an OEM supplier so should pass quality checks.


I would still take febi bilstien parts over meyle ones if they are available.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

FullThrottleORL said:


> :laugh:


^^ Why are you even posting in "the ask the experts thread"...Semi-noob :sly: :laugh:


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> I would still take febi bilstien parts over meyle ones if they are available.


You know an online supplier thats got those? I've only found Meyle or 'OEM' when I've checked the plethora of suppliers that pop up in the rolling ads here on vortex.

Ya know what we need. A sticky thread of guys with corrados in this forum that work in or run shops that supply Corrado parts. That way when we need something we can be sure we'll get the right thing since they *know* Corrado's and dont just have knowledge of VWs, but dont know anything corrado specific. We've got this thread for advice... we need a thread for parts. heh
So yea... somebody get on that.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> You know an online supplier thats got those? I've only found Meyle or 'OEM' when I've checked the plethora of suppliers that pop up in the rolling ads here on vortex.
> 
> Ya know what we need. A sticky thread of guys with corrados in this forum that work in or run shops that supply Corrado parts. That way when we need something we can be sure we'll get the right thing since they *know* Corrado's and dont just have knowledge of VWs, but dont know anything corrado specific. We've got this thread for advice... we need a thread for parts. heh
> So yea... somebody get on that.


PM CorradoMagic and as him. He owns a parts distribution business. You could also call our forum sponsor: FourSeasonTuning. Again he is a corrado guy and runs a distribution business.

Jared is another person that could possible find that info out for you. :thumbup:


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

cyberstasi said:


> You know an online supplier thats got those? I've only found Meyle or 'OEM' when I've checked the plethora of suppliers that pop up in the rolling ads here on vortex...


GAP or Keith from DubNutz?


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> Jared is another person that could possible find that info out for you. :thumbup:


I checked Jared's company site already but only saw parts for the VR. Perhaps I didnt do enough digging. I'll shoot those guys a PM after I do a bit more digging. Dont want to be the idiot to ask a question when the answer is on the front page of their company site. :laugh:


While I'm at it... let me fire another question at you. I'm currently rebuilding my front end and have planned to get a set of Koni coilovers, but its just not in the budget at the moment due to other expenses with my Rado... I have to cut expenses somewhere. So Instead of cutting the cost with the mounts, control arms, bushings, etc, I was thinking of getting a set of the KYB GR-2 Struts for the fronts. I know they are budget struts... but I really only need them to last 8 months or so, till I get other things squared away and I can drop the coin on a quality set of coilovers. Do any of you know much about the KYB struts?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> I checked Jared's company site already but only saw parts for the VR. Perhaps I didnt do enough digging. I'll shoot those guys a PM after I do a bit more digging. Dont want to be the idiot to ask a question when the answer is on the front page of their company site. :laugh:
> 
> 
> While I'm at it... let me fire another question at you. I'm currently rebuilding my front end and have planned to get a set of Koni coilovers, but its just not in the budget at the moment due to other expenses with my Rado... I have to cut expenses somewhere. So Instead of cutting the cost with the mounts, control arms, bushings, etc, I was thinking of getting a set of the KYB GR-2 Struts for the fronts. I know they are budget struts... but I really only need them to last 8 months or so, till I get other things squared away and I can drop the coin on a quality set of coilovers. Do any of you know much about the KYB struts?


Call places. Alot of times things won't be listed on a site but a company will carry them. Alot of places have multiple distributors too.

IMO save up for the Koni's. You can pick them up used too. I wouldn't even think of wasting my time with KYBs.

Why are you replacing the control arms? Unless they are bent I would save my money and just replace the control arm bushings.


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Call places. Alot of times things won't be listed on a site but a company will carry them. Alot of places have multiple distributors too.
> 
> IMO save up for the Koni's. You can pick them up used too. I wouldn't even think of wasting my time with KYBs.
> 
> Why are you replacing the control arms? Unless they are bent I would save my money and just replace the control arm bushings.


Definitely call us for other parts like that that you don't see on the site. We have access to tons of that stuff. Regarding the control arms, on some of the older VW's it's cheaper to just buy the aftermarket control arm with the bushings already pressed in vs taking the arms out and then paying a shop to press in new ones.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> I checked Jared's company site already but only saw parts for the VR. Perhaps I didnt do enough digging. I'll shoot those guys a PM after I do a bit more digging. Dont want to be the idiot to ask a question when the answer is on the front page of their company site. :laugh:
> 
> 
> While I'm at it... let me fire another question at you. I'm currently rebuilding my front end and have planned to get a set of Koni coilovers, but its just not in the budget at the moment due to other expenses with my Rado... I have to cut expenses somewhere. So Instead of cutting the cost with the mounts, control arms, bushings, etc, I was thinking of getting a set of the KYB GR-2 Struts for the fronts. I know they are budget struts... but I really only need them to last 8 months or so, till I get other things squared away and I can drop the coin on a quality set of coilovers. Do any of you know much about the KYB struts?


eh, call him, hez bored anyway :laugh:

nice choice on koni's, save for the other items


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Definitely call us for other parts like that that you don't see on the site. We have access to tons of that stuff. Regarding the control arms, on some of the older VW's it's cheaper to just buy the aftermarket control arm with the bushings already pressed in vs taking the arms out and then paying a shop to press in new ones.


I guess I am used to owning a press so I don't see the extra prices with that stuff.

But I don't recall it ever being expensive to have a set of bearings done for me before I did own a press.


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

92 vr fuel pump question:

the rubber in the fuel pump housing disintegrated and got stuck in the filter sock. is there any place to source the rubber pieces, or will I have to get a whole new assembly?

I have a friend who has a 93 vr pump (corrado as well) that has 77k miles on it - is it safe to put that pump in if it's been out of a car since 2002?


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> CMO save up for the Koni's. You can pick them up used too. I wouldn't even think of wasting my time with KYBs.


Because at the moment I have struts that are basically just springs. I'm sick of bouncing down the road for a 1/4 mile after I hit a pebble.



TheBurninator said:


> Why are you replacing the control arms? Unless they are bent I would save my money and just replace the control arm bushings.


 I believe they are bent, not 100% sure, but I've got a few nice gouges out of them which lead me to believe that they've taken some pretty serious hits under there.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> eh, call him, hez bored anyway :laugh:


:laugh:



> I guess I am used to owning a press so I don't see the extra prices with that stuff.
> 
> But I don't recall it ever being expensive to have a set of bearings done for me before I did own a press.


Not really expensive, just a convenience thing... for those of us who don't have a press sittin' around


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

So, here are the TRW tie rod ends I bought: 




















and here's some part # in case someone is looking to do the same:

oe VW tie rod ends part # 191 419 812 & 191 419 811
TRW part # JTE344 & JTE345
Febi-Bilsten part # 02238 & 03583
(they cost me just 30euro/set while the stealer wanted 70euro/set) :sly:

Next are ball joints. 
oe VW part # 357 407 365 & 357 407 365A
TRW part # JBJ210


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

valet said:


> 92 vr fuel pump question:
> 
> the rubber in the fuel pump housing disintegrated and got stuck in the filter sock. is there any place to source the rubber pieces, or will I have to get a whole new assembly? *New pump, and if you have an OEM Pierburg, you will need a VDO pump and sender to replace the obsolete part.*
> 
> I have a friend who has a 93 vr pump (corrado as well) that has 77k miles on it - is it safe to put that pump in if it's been out of a car since 2002?


*If it works, its fine just remember you will need a 4bar pump for the Corrado. 3bar MK3 pumps are no bueno. 

:thumbup:
*


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

I need opinions on what intake to get. I am looking the Neuspeed P-Flo and the Carbonio. The Neuspeed is a lot cheaper, but I am wondering which one will perform better on my 93 VR6 stock.

Thanks for the any input.


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

DUBZAK said:


> *If it works, its fine just remember you will need a 4bar pump for the Corrado. 3bar MK3 pumps are no bueno.
> 
> :thumbup:
> *



thanks... the 93 pump is from a vr so I'll end up putting it in ($60 is nice and cheap maybe later I'll upgrade to vdo)

if that corrado pump is junk too, then I have some options:

my old work still gives me a discount so they can get me a brand new vdo for 180 and I found a writeup for reusing the old sending unit

anyone still using the $89 fuel pump (treperformance)?

corrado I gonna remain pretty stock, so I don't need to mess with any walbro at the moment


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> I need opinions on what intake to get. I am looking the Neuspeed P-Flo and the Carbonio. The Neuspeed is a lot cheaper, but I am wondering which one will perform better on my 93 VR6 stock.
> 
> Thanks for the any input.


Only one worth a damn is a Turn2. Gotta find one as they are no longer made.

Stock airbox is classy though. :thumbup:


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Only one worth a damn is a Turn2. Gotta find one as they are no longer made.
> 
> Stock airbox is classy though. :thumbup:


I agree, stock is legit...but on the real, what has been a good performer? The stock air box cant possibly be better than something replacing it.

Thanks.

:beer::beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

valet said:


> thanks... the 93 pump is from a vr so I'll end up putting it in ($60 is nice and cheap maybe later I'll upgrade to vdo)
> 
> if that corrado pump is junk too, then I have some options:
> 
> ...


there is someone selling a new aeromotive FP in either the engine or forced induction classifieds, may be another option :thumbup:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> I agree, stock is legit...but on the real, what has been a good performer? The stock air box cant possibly be better than something replacing it.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> :beer::beer:


Nope, due to HEAT SOAK, almost all intakes will lose power. This is why stock airboxes rule.


----------



## Air23h20 (Nov 18, 2004)

*G60 vs VR6*

I have searched and have not found the answers I am looking for. I want a Corrado. 

Questions?

1, What are the good and bad between g60/VR6? I would like to hear opinions and stories.
(Personally I think I want a VR6 because of cars past)

2, What year is known to be the unicorn year from the factory 88-95?

3, Can I find a "Storm" in the US?

4, Other then the obvious water pump, heater core, chopped up wiring harness, sunroof, timing chain, and accident record. What are things to look for when buying a used Rado?

5, Which hold there value better non-sunroof or with? I am a sunroof guy.

6, Are parts still around OEM/NOS? 

*Trolls* need not answer and thank you for your time and insight in advance!:thumbup:opcorn:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

I'll take a stab at this, but others feel free to comment 



Air23h20 said:


> I have searched and have not found the answers I am looking for. I want a Corrado. *TRY Google! CCA, CCC, tons of internet info and the Corrado FAQ*
> 
> Questions?
> 
> ...


----------



## Air23h20 (Nov 18, 2004)

Sr. Karmann
:thumbup: Thank you!:beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Air23h20 said:


> Sr. Karmann
> :thumbup: Thank you!:beer:


:thumbup:........:beer:


----------



## RowBoatsVdubs (Mar 18, 2008)

OK guys, here goes... :banghead::banghead: *please help!*

90 Corrado G60 that runs, drives, makes boost and pulls hard when its running.

BUT

If I stop the car for very long at all the car acts like its not getting enough fuel and will soon die if i cant get the car back onto the road again quickly. once dead, the car will not start up again for an hour or so.... 

any ideas? 

i was thinking something with heat but the temp gauge never moves above the halfway mark?
my friend said try unpluging the CTS and see if the car will run without it and if so its a bad cts, well, no dice there, the car acts the same with it plugged in or not...


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RowBoatsVdubs said:


> OK guys, here goes... :banghead::banghead: *please help!*
> 
> 90 Corrado G60 that runs, drives, makes boost and pulls hard when its running.
> 
> ...


An idle issue, check your ISV DO NOT UNPLUG OR PLUG BACK IN WHILE CAR IS RUNNING, IT WILL FRY YOUR ECU!!! Check your idle & WOT switches on your TB and Co-pot... Car may be out of time as well, lots to consider, just an idea of what to start checking... Good luck :thumbup:


----------



## crisvr6 (Jun 14, 2007)

*where is the thread starter ? 
he have to come back here :laugh:*


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

crisvr6 said:


> *where is the thread starter ?
> he have to come back here :laugh:*


Mr. McSoopernoob? :laugh: think he's off ruling the MKIII forums :screwy:


----------



## Pottery_Pal (Jul 13, 2009)

Need some expert advice...........


What Thermostat / Fan Switch Temp Ratings would be ideal for the normally hot Houston Texas weather?

Should I run the fan switch a little higher temp that the thermostat or vice versa?


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Nope, due to HEAT SOAK, almost all intakes will lose power. This is why stock airboxes rule.


I appreciate that feedback, other than exhaust, what do you recommend for performance upgrades to stock VR w/out going turbo?


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Not really an 'expert' question... more of a 'those who have been around here for ever' question...

Has anyone tried to shoehorn a W8 into a corrado?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Pottery_Pal said:


> Need some expert advice...........
> 
> 
> What Thermostat / Fan Switch Temp Ratings would be ideal for the normally hot Houston Texas weather?
> ...


I live in south Florida and I un an 80* thermostat (any cooler and the car would not come out of limp mode on the highway, sat just below 160*) and the low temp thermoswitch both of which I got from germanautoparts.com



cyberstasi said:


> Not really an 'expert' question... more of a 'those who have been around here for ever' question...
> 
> Has anyone tried to shoehorn a W8 into a corrado?


Mikki Jayne


----------



## RowBoatsVdubs (Mar 18, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> Nope, due to HEAT SOAK, almost all intakes will lose power. This is why stock airboxes rule.


whats heat soak?? i googled and found this



someone on lotus talk said:


> Simple terms - a hunk of metal (or other thing) starts out at ambient temperature. It's exposed to other another temperature that warms (or cools) the surface. As time goes on, the head (or cold) evens out throughout the metal and the thing is "heat soaked". If you take away the source of the heat (or cold), the part will remain hot (or cold) for quite some time as it gives off the heat (or cold) that has "soaked" in the metal.
> 
> In terms of intercoolers, as the compressed air is compressed, it gets warmer. As it passes through the intercooler, the air gives off heat to the intercooler. And the intercooler gives off that air to the outside air that passes over the intercooler. After a while, the intercooler "heat soaks" and can't absorb as much heat from the compressed air to cool it. The temperature of the compressed air to the engine goes up and that increases the chance of detonation in the cylinder.
> 
> ...


so hear is my question...

wouldnt heat soak only affect metal intakes then? i use the stock plastic intake tube on my VR and then a k&n cone filter that is also NOT metal.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RowBoatsVdubs said:


> whats heat soak?? i googled and found this
> so hear is my question...
> 
> wouldnt heat soak only affect metal intakes then? i use the stock plastic intake tube on my VR and then a k&n cone filter that is also NOT metal.


Heat soak will happen with _*any*_ material, just depends on the material properties and how fast it can dissipate the heat, do a little reading up on heat transfer here... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat

Oh, and BTW, most intake filters do contain metal, my K&N does


----------



## RowBoatsVdubs (Mar 18, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Heat soak will happen with _*any*_ material, just depends on the material properties and how fast it can dissipate the heat, do a little reading up on heat transfer here... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat
> 
> Oh, and BTW, most intake filters do contain metal, my K&N does


i understand heat transfer, and yes i know the k&n has a metal screen in the filter element and sure, plastic gets hot too, but as far as a _noticeable_ dyno difference has anyone actually tested this and seen what the difference in power of a hot car with a straight metal intake vs non metal vs stock? 

or is this something that you would really worry about with FI?


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Mikki Jayne


Thanks for the info. :beer:
Sadly her site only has this:


> Unfortunately in order to protect my intellectual property I have had to temporarily take this site offline. It will be back online once the project is complete. Thanks to those who have contributed and offered support. Mikki x


This does rather amazing though









Back on the expert front, anyone got pics of a G60 fuel pump setup? that shows how big it is? Pics on parts store sites are usually generic and dont give you a good reference for size.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RowBoatsVdubs said:


> i understand heat transfer, and yes i know the k&n has a metal screen in the filter element and sure, plastic gets hot too, but as far as a _noticeable_ dyno difference has anyone actually tested this and seen what the difference in power of a hot car with a straight metal intake vs non metal vs stock?
> 
> or is this something that you would really worry about with FI?


I forget where I saw it, posted up once was a dyno result of 3 or 4 different seups, I think it was in a discussion of the SWG dual intake setup, so they ran that one, a cone setup, with and without heat shield and a stock airbox, stock airbox made the best HP's



cyberstasi said:


> Thanks for the info. :beer:
> Sadly her site only has this:
> 
> Back on the expert front, anyone got pics of a G60 fuel pump setup? that shows how big it is? Pics on parts store sites are usually generic and dont give you a good reference for size.


about this > __________________________________- big :laugh: Don't have size reference pics, I have an aftermarket FP in my car and has been fine, dunno where it came from, came with the car, not installed, but PO bought it... looked like the ones pictured on ebay, try germanautoparts.com


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I forget where I saw it, posted up once was a dyno result of 3 or 4 different seups, I think it was in a discussion of the SWG dual intake setup, so they ran that one, a cone setup, with and without heat shield and a stock airbox, stock airbox made the best HP's
> 
> 
> 
> about this > __________________________________- big :laugh: Don't have size reference pics, I have an aftermarket FP in my car and has been fine, dunno where it came from, came with the car, not installed, but PO bought it... looked like the ones pictured on ebay, try germanautoparts.com


Im just used to the size fuel pumps that I had on my Sciroccos which were just a tad longer than a soda can and about that round. The fuel pump I just picked up for my rado seemed massive compared to it, its like 5" in diameter and about as tall. I'm just not used to fuel pumps that big so I was curious if I was sold the wrong thing.


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I forget where I saw it, posted up once was a dyno result of 3 or 4 different seups, I think it was in a discussion of the SWG dual intake setup, so they ran that one, a cone setup, with and without heat shield and a stock airbox, stock airbox made the best HP's
> 
> 
> 
> about this > __________________________________- big :laugh: Don't have size reference pics, I have an aftermarket FP in my car and has been fine, dunno where it came from, came with the car, not installed, but PO bought it... looked like the ones pictured on ebay, try germanautoparts.com


This was great information. This leaves me with a few questions :banghead: Why do people invest in the intakes if they do not work, and what sugesstion do some of you guys/gals have for performance upgrades to a stock VR w/out going turbo? :beer::beer::thumbup:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> This was great information. This leaves me with a few questions :banghead: Why do people invest in the intakes if they do not work,...


^^Looks, lack of knowledge imo...


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> Why do people invest in the intakes if they do not work,





RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^Looks, lack of knowledge imo...


I'd tend to agree as well. Same reason Ricer guys bolt massive airplane wings on the back of their car and think it gives them massive performance increase.
My car came with the Neuspeed P-flow setup. and while I do think the SWG dual intake thing looks snazzy... i'd never drop the coin on it, not to mention the issues I've read on here about possibly damaging your charger.


----------



## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

*Aftermarket fan set up*

Over the winter I want to rip out the stock fan system in my G60 and install an aftermarket fan set up. Any recommendations? I would like to retain the afterrun if possible and regarding the radiator thermoswitch, I would rather have the fan on all the time and be able to tell if its working or not from inside the car. What type of options are there regarding fan systems.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> Im just used to the size fuel pumps that I had on my Sciroccos which were just a tad longer than a soda can and about that round. The fuel pump I just picked up for my rado seemed massive compared to it, its like 5" in diameter and about as tall. I'm just not used to fuel pumps that big so I was curious if I was sold the wrong thing.


nah, mine was about 5" in dia too :thumbup: for a 91 tho...



CorradoLook'N21 said:


> This was great information. This leaves me with a few questions :banghead: Why do people invest in the intakes if they do not work, and what sugesstion do some of you guys/gals have for performance upgrades to a stock VR w/out going turbo? :beer::beer::thumbup:


*FO BLING....*



RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^Looks, lack of knowledge imo...


:laugh:........



jgcable said:


> Over the winter I want to rip out the stock fan system in my G60 and install an aftermarket fan set up. Any recommendations? I would like to retain the afterrun if possible and regarding the radiator thermoswitch, I would rather have the fan on all the time and be able to tell if its working or not from inside the car. What type of options are there regarding fan systems.


I'm about to do a slim line fan setup myself. You should be able to either hook up both fans to hi and low or one to hi and one to low, depending on fan selection and the way you wire them up :thumbup:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> I appreciate that feedback, other than exhaust, what do you recommend for performance upgrades to stock VR w/out going turbo?


Cams, software, 3" exhaust with test pipe, headwork, downpipe. N/A VR power is not cheap, reason why everyone headspaces a stock block and makes power with the right turbo set up



Sr. Karmann said:


> *FO BLING....*
> 
> 
> 
> :laugh:........













Hellz yeah. :vampire:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Hellz yeah. :vampire:


 and glad to see my car in another database pic, well a piece of it anyway :laugh:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

I'm finally finishing my steering/suspension rebuild and what's left to do are the wishbone bushes-I have a dilemma on what to get: 

1) oe-style TT/R32 upgraded bushes with either oem front position bushes or poly front position bushes










or










(to be honest this ^^ is what I'm leaning to)


2) "Bonrath" kit (which besides both front&rear position wishbones bushes also includes rear axle bushes)











3) "Prothane" kit (which besides both front& rear position wishbones bushes also includes rear axle bush sleeves, rear shock absorber top bush set, anti-roll bar bushes, strut bump bushes - price for this kit is very tempting...)











4) or the equivelant "Powerflex kit"
http://www.powerflex.co.uk/i/product_images/1-corrado.pdf


  

I've read the posts on the TT/R32 front wishbone bushes upgrade but I still cannot make up my mind.
I want something stiffer/better feeling/more durable than oe but not very harsh/overkill since my Corrado G60 probably won't ever see the track...
I've also made up my mind that I'm going with the upgraded VR6 top mount kit too.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> I'm finally finishing my steering/suspension rebuild and what's left to do are the wishbone bushes-I have a dilemma on what to get:
> 
> 1) oe-style TT/R32 upgraded bushes with either oem front position bushes
> 
> ...


:thumbup::thumbup: to what's now above ^, just to give you a hint, just did the bushes on my buddy's R32 recently and the new buzz for them are MKII stock rubber front bushes, I LOL'd :laugh:

and the VR strut bushes are the shiz too, harder compound and will outlast stock G60 ones, but IIRC, you need the whole kit and I would get them with the VR caps too(may come with the kit)


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Hey everyone - November 30 is my last day here at Avenue. I'm relocating to Frisco, TX but I'll still pop in here and see what's goin on - to ask dumb questions and hand out unsolicited advice. 

I'll have a new screen name (to be determined) of course. :beer::beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> I'll have a new screen name (to be determined) of course. :beer::beer:


How about "Professor Dickweed"? :laugh:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> :thumbup::thumbup: to what's now above ^, just to give you a hint, just did the bushes on my buddy's R32 recently and the new buzz for them are MKII stock rubber front bushes, I LOL'd :laugh:
> 
> and the VR strut bushes are the shiz too, harder compound and will outlast stock G60 ones, but IIRC, you need the whole kit and I would get them with the VR caps too(may come with the kit)


Chad thanks :thumbup:
Why not the option with the *poly* front position control arms bushes though?


Any other opinions or should I start a new thread with poll :sly:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Chad thanks :thumbup:
> Why not the option with the *poly* front position control arms bushes though?
> 
> 
> Any other opinions or should I start a new thread with poll :sly:


I've heard of people running them and supposedly can be squeaky and don't last as long as the OEM ones, therefore running poly to try and eventually going back to rubber, plenty of threads already

take your pic  http://www.google.com/search?source...y+bushings&gs_rfai=&pbx=1&fp=6e8733203d1b4e27


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> How about "Professor Dickweed"? :laugh:


Oooh I hadn't considered that one... I'll put it on the list of potential names.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Oooh I hadn't considered that one... I'll put it on the list of potential names.


:laugh:


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> Oooh I hadn't considered that one... I'll put it on the list of potential names.


Dont forget about ripping off Prince's idea... '[email protected]'


----------



## spitfire143 (Jun 9, 2008)

Can anyone tell me, is the #30 Relay the same as #109 for a 90 G60?


----------



## VandyMan (Jun 9, 2007)

*Vibrations after rebuild (and CAM)*

1991 G60, original engine with 220K miles:
Two years ago I started an engine rebuild project. I replaced my HG and while at it rebuilt the head. Got all new valve springs, hyd lifters, decked the head, had the valve seats ground, replaced the seals, and got an Autotech Hyd G60 CAM installed along with an Autotech adjustable cam sprocket. A reputable machine shop in the area did all the head work.

I've installed everything back onto the block (with new engine mounts while in there) with ARP head bolts to ARP Specs and 2 years later, finally timed her up and the car drives pretty well in terms of acceleration and it still gets about 25 MPG which tells me it's PROBABLY running pretty clean.

PROBLEM: At idle she runs pretty rough and has strong engine vibes right at 3000rpm. The idle is definitely rougher than I remember before I did the work and the 3K RPM vibes were definitely not there. Now I know I have a non-stock CAM and to expect it to run a little rougher, but it is only the Autotech Sport 260° Hydro Camshaft which is pretty moderate at 260°/256°.

So what's the deal? I've replaced engine mounts before and did it right. And I'm using stock engine mounts which I know aren't the greatest in terms of quality, but they certainly should be good enough to isolate general vibrations. Especially new ones.
My local mechanic says it runs about right. I disagree
Thanks guys, I appreciate the help.

Vandy


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

cyberstasi said:


> Dont forget about ripping off Prince's idea... '[email protected]'


hmmm not bad but might not fit in that little space Vortex give ya over there


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> hmmm not bad but might not fit in that little space Vortex give ya over there


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> ya, I've heard they give more limitations to folks in TX ..........:laugh:


I'm curious if the G is gonna pass emissions inspections there. The county we'll be in is within the area od Dallas so it'll have to get sniffed. :thumbdown:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> I'm curious if the G is gonna pass emissions inspections there. The county we'll be in is within the area od Dallas so it'll have to get sniffed. :thumbdown:


In Jersey, we used to have "a guy"  Sure he costs a little more, but the vehicle ALWAYS passed


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> In Jersey, we used to have "a guy"  Sure he costs a little more, but the vehicle ALWAYS passed


Ahhhh I got ya... I'll have to try and find a "guy." :thumbup:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Ahhhh I got ya... I'll have to try and find a "guy." :thumbup:


Usually nothing Mr. Ben Franklin can't take care of :laugh: Oh, unless it's turbo related :banghead:...:laugh:


----------



## mattsgota325i (Mar 2, 2006)

92 corrado slc

ability to work on cars is good OBDII swaps in working great besides the problem below.

OBDI distrib to OBDII swap - NO POWER BRAKES (old style ABS)

anyway to make them work i kno theres no booster its all electronic. basically wnt to kno if i need to put the new style ABS in and run new brakelines or if theres something i maybe disconnected at the fuse block that could be causing the issues.


ALSO the other day i locked my car and put my window up with the key in the door. the next day none of my power windows or locks worked... and ideas???


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> In Jersey, we used to have "a guy"  Sure he costs a little more, but the vehicle ALWAYS passed


Back in the old days, we used to have "a guy" here too...everything is computerized now so unfortunately no special "guy" applies anymore :banghead:


----------



## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

VandyMan said:


> 1991 G60, original engine with 220K miles:
> Two years ago I started an engine rebuild project. I replaced my HG and while at it rebuilt the head. Got all new valve springs, hyd lifters, decked the head, had the valve seats ground, replaced the seals, and got an Autotech Hyd G60 CAM installed along with an Autotech adjustable cam sprocket. A reputable machine shop in the area did all the head work.
> 
> I've installed everything back onto the block (with new engine mounts while in there) with ARP head bolts to ARP Specs and 2 years later, finally timed her up and the car drives pretty well in terms of acceleration and it still gets about 25 MPG which tells me it's PROBABLY running pretty clean.
> ...


I am by no means a Corrado expert yet but a rough idle is many times vacuum caused. Check all your hoses. Also, make sure your ISV is clean. A dirty injector could cause a rough idle too. 
One way to check vacuum easily is to get a propane torch and turn it on (don't light it of course..) and go all around the motor while its idling and if you have and find a vacuum leak the idle will instantly smooth out because the leak is being displaced (sealed) temporarily by the propane. 
Regarding the vibration it could be your flywheel is out of balance or something as simple as your exhaust hitting something.


----------



## VandyMan (Jun 9, 2007)

jgcable said:


> I am by no means a Corrado expert yet but a rough idle is many times vacuum caused. Check all your hoses.
> 
> Regarding the vibration it could be your flywheel is out of balance or something as simple as your exhaust hitting something.


Thanks JGCABLE.
I'll check for vacuum leaks since I did replace much of the hoses with silicone equivalents (yes I measured the 1M hose to the ECU), but I really feel like the vibrations occur at 800RMP, 1500RPM and 3000RPM which hints to me it's something physical on the engine. So the flywheel suggestion is a good one, but I never touched it during the HG replacement.

I'll try to reseat engine on the mounts, clean the ISV, and check for vacuum leaks using the propane trick and if I don't blow myself up, I'll post results. 

Any other advice is greatly valued,

Vandy


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

mattsgota325i said:


> 92 corrado slc
> 
> ability to work on cars is good OBDII swaps in working great besides the problem below.
> 
> ...


Check for power at the ABS pump, there is no need to swap ABS for OBD2

As for your windows ect, the comfort module that controls these is located behind the d/s rear panel. Pull the panel, to see what you are dealing with, maybe fried the module. 
Check to see if you have power locks from the passenger side as well.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

RedYellowWhite said:


> I'm finally finishing my steering/suspension rebuild and what's left to do are the wishbone bushes-I have a dilemma on what to get:
> 
> 1) oe-style TT/R32 upgraded bushes with either oem front position bushes or poly front position bushes
> 
> ...





Sr. Karmann said:


> :thumbup::thumbup: to what's now above ^, just to give you a hint, just did the bushes on my buddy's R32 recently and the new buzz for them are MKII stock rubber front bushes, I LOL'd :laugh:
> 
> and the VR strut bushes are the shiz too, harder compound and will outlast stock G60 ones, but IIRC, you need the whole kit and I would get them with the VR caps too(may come with the kit)





Sr. Karmann said:


> I've heard of people running them and supposedly can be squeaky and don't last as long as the OEM ones, therefore running poly to try and eventually going back to rubber, plenty of threads already
> 
> take your pic  http://www.google.com/search?source...y+bushings&gs_rfai=&pbx=1&fp=6e8733203d1b4e27



So...I finally went with the HD TT/R32 version and oe rubber fronts as per Chad's recommendation 

...and Keith aka The DubNutz is the man :thumbup:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> So...I finally went with the HD TT/R32 version and oe rubber fronts as per Chad's recommendation


you WILL NOT be disappointed :thumbup::thumbup:........:beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

VandyMan said:


> Thanks JGCABLE.
> I'll check for vacuum leaks since I did replace much of the hoses with silicone equivalents (yes I measured the 1M hose to the ECU), but I really feel like the vibrations occur at 800RMP, 1500RPM and 3000RPM which hints to me it's something physical on the engine. So the flywheel suggestion is a good one, but I never touched it during the HG replacement.
> 
> I'll try to reseat engine on the mounts, clean the ISV, and check for vacuum leaks using the propane trick and if I don't blow myself up, I'll post results.
> ...


you can also check for vac leaks with a can of carb cleaner, just a little safer IMHO and re-seating the engine mounts is also a good idea :thumbup:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> you WILL NOT be disappointed :thumbup::thumbup:........:beer:


 :beer:

...the money for the RSR went to a good investment (plus a few other goodies), lol :laugh:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> :beer:
> 
> ...the money for the RSR went to a good investment (plus a few other goodies), lol :laugh:


hahahahaha, RSR $$'s... :laugh:


----------



## VandyMan (Jun 9, 2007)

Sr. Karmann said:


> .....re-seating the engine mounts is also a good idea :thumbup:


Do I just loosen up all the bolts for the mount, both engine and chassis bolts? 
Before I re-tighten should I A) shake the engine around to get it to settle in, or B) jack up the engine and lower it back down, or C) start the engine and let it idle, which sounds scary with the bolts loosened! 

Thanks,

Vandy


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

VandyMan said:


> I just loosen up all the bolts for the mount, both engine and chassis bolts...
> Before I re-tighten I should shake the engine around to get it to settle in
> Thanks,
> 
> Vandy


fixed :thumbup:


----------



## VandyMan (Jun 9, 2007)

Damn I'm good! Thanks,

Vandy


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Back in the old days, we used to have "a guy" here too...everything is computerized now so unfortunately no special "guy" applies anymore :banghead:


We have the same where I live in Maryland... all computerized. However since I own a G60 they cant hook it up, so I'm still safe. However even with it being computerized, I took in my sisters 2001 Cabrio which should have failed and after chatting the guy up, he just keyed in the system that it passed and we drove off.
Even with them computerizing everything, there are still loopholes if the tech knows them.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

VandyMan said:


> Damn I'm good! Thanks,
> 
> Vandy


:beer:


----------



## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> you can also check for vac leaks with a can of carb cleaner, just a little safer IMHO and re-seating the engine mounts is also a good idea :thumbup:


Carb cleaner works too and it sure is safer. :thumbup:


----------



## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

*Charger bracket bolts*

I was working on my G60 over the weekend and noticed that the charger bracket (the one that mounts it to the engine) has a square flange with 4 holes in it. Mine only has bolts in 2 of the holes. They are both located on the passenger side if you are facing the car from the front. One on top of the other going straight into the motor.
Now.. I would normally think they are just missing by accident because the charger was removed and ported to stage 4 by the previous owner but... when I look in my Bentley manual it shows the charger bracket but it only shows 2 bolts. The other 2 holes they mention bushings that needed to be inserted but they don't point to bolts for those holes. Am I missing 2 bolts or what?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

jgcable said:


> I was working on my G60 over the weekend and noticed that the charger bracket (the one that mounts it to the engine) has a square flange with 4 holes in it. Mine only has bolts in 2 of the holes. They are both located on the passenger side if you are facing the car from the front. One on top of the other going straight into the motor.
> Now.. I would normally think they are just missing by accident because the charger was removed and ported to stage 4 by the previous owner but... when I look in my Bentley manual it shows the charger bracket but it only shows 2 bolts. The other 2 holes they mention bushings that needed to be inserted but they don't point to bolts for those holes. Am I missing 2 bolts or what?


You need 4. I think you are looking at the two bolts, one that goes into the side of the charger and one for the bracket, must not have been room for all of them for clarity :thumbup:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jgcable said:


> I was working on my G60 over the weekend and noticed that the charger bracket (the one that mounts it to the engine) has a square flange with 4 holes in it. Mine only has bolts in 2 of the holes. They are both located on the passenger side if you are facing the car from the front. One on top of the other going straight into the motor.
> Now.. I would normally think they are just missing by accident because the charger was removed and ported to stage 4 by the previous owner but... when I look in my Bentley manual it shows the charger bracket but it only shows 2 bolts. The other 2 holes they mention bushings that needed to be inserted but they don't point to bolts for those holes. Am I missing 2 bolts or what?


I can get an etka diagram to you in about an hour and a half if you can wait.


----------



## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> I can get an etka diagram to you in about an hour and a half if you can wait.


Thanks, I would appreciate that. I blew up the page in the Bentley as big as I could and it doesn't show those other 2 bolts. There are round marks on my bracket that look like there were certainly bolts there with round washers. They are very easy to get to. They are right out in the open. I will need to know what size they are too unless they are the same size as the other 2 that are already in there. Jeez... how could somebody forget those? 
I am going to have to search the classifieds to see if somebody has a few extra bolts laying around. 
:beer:


----------



## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> You need 4. I think you are looking at the two bolts, one that goes into the side of the charger and one for the bracket, must not have been room for all of them for clarity :thumbup:


Yes. The other 2 holes are in the bracket for bolts that go through the bracket and straight into the motor. They are right out in the open.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

jgcable said:


> Thanks, I would appreciate that. I blew up the page in the Bentley as big as I could and it doesn't show those other 2 bolts. There are round marks on my bracket that look like there were certainly bolts there with round washers. They are very easy to get to. They are right out in the open. I will need to know what size they are too unless they are the same size as the other 2 that are already in there. Jeez... how could somebody forget those?
> I am going to have to search the classifieds to see if somebody has a few extra bolts laying around.
> :beer:


with etka you can get the PN & bolt size, either for the dealer or your local specialty bolt supply or you can just take one out and have it matched


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jgcable said:


> Thanks, I would appreciate that. I blew up the page in the Bentley as big as I could and it doesn't show those other 2 bolts. There are round marks on my bracket that look like there were certainly bolts there with round washers. They are very easy to get to. They are right out in the open. I will need to know what size they are too unless they are the same size as the other 2 that are already in there. Jeez... how could somebody forget those?
> I am going to have to search the classifieds to see if somebody has a few extra bolts laying around.
> :beer:


If these arent large enough pics for you PM me your email address and I will email you a PDF file with full size


----------



## g60nw (Mar 30, 2010)

I am needing to change the clutch on the g60 and am planning on going with a vr6 clutch, my question is since it bolts up without issue does that mean I can run a vr6 lightened flywheel as well or do I need to stick with a g60 flywheel?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

g60nw said:


> I am needing to change the clutch on the g60 and am planning on going with a vr6 clutch, my question is since it bolts up without issue does that mean I can run a vr6 lightened flywheel as well or do I need to stick with a g60 flywheel?


G60 flywheel. If you want a lightened one eurospecsport makes one. You can get it at fourseasontuning :thumbup:


----------



## g60nw (Mar 30, 2010)

Thanks is that simply do to the starter ring gear?


----------



## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> If these arent large enough pics for you PM me your email address and I will email you a PDF file with full size


Perfect. Thanks. I need 2pcs of #22. M8X28


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

g60nw said:


> Thanks is that simply do to the starter ring gear?


bolt pattern on the crank


----------



## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

Anybody know the diameter of the return hose from the brake reservoir to the master cylinder. Mine leaks under pressure.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> Anybody know the diameter of the return hose from the brake reservoir to the master cylinder. Mine leaks under pressure.


IIRC 3/8" Inside diameter....not 100% on that though.


----------



## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

I might just have to pull it off, was hoping to just swap them real quick w/o losing too much fluid.

Thanks Zach, I might start with that size and see what happens.


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

torque specs for fill and drain plugs on 02a transmission?

checked bentley and search online to no avail


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Tried searching for it, but there are pics floating around of a guy who put a TDI in a corrado, anyone know who that was or if there was any threads on the build? I'm trying to take in as much as I can about various swaps before I decide on a route I want to go with my ride.


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Cams, software, 3" exhaust with test pipe, headwork, downpipe. N/A VR power is not cheap, reason why everyone headspaces a stock block and makes power with the right turbo set up
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I plan on doing exhaust, chip, and cams. What cam do you suggest for a n/a setup?


----------



## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

cyberstasi said:


> Tried searching for it, but there are pics floating around of a guy who put a TDI in a corrado, anyone know who that was or if there was any threads on the build? I'm trying to take in as much as I can about various swaps before I decide on a route I want to go with my ride.


Search for user name G60ing.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> Tried searching for it, but there are pics floating around of a guy who put a TDI in a corrado, anyone know who that was or if there was any threads on the build? I'm trying to take in as much as I can about various swaps before I decide on a route I want to go with my ride.


Man, for the life of me can't remember his name, dpgreek maybe??? But whoever it was, was recently selling it in the SE regional FS thread, but just went thru it and seems as if the post was deleted, it is a red TDI C and I believe the guy was out of Atlanta, but try this... http://www.google.com/search?aq=f&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=TDI+corrado :thumbup:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> I plan on doing exhaust, chip, and cams. What cam do you suggest for a n/a setup?


 Too vauge of a question. Budget, and power goals come into play, but here is a little insight.

262's: Dont lose to much low end power, gain a litle up top, do not require valve springs.
266's and all in between 262-268: Might require valve springs, and will be a little more mid range with a little bottom end loss.
268's: Valve springs required, most popular cam choice for 12v VR6's. Fat power up top. 
Over 268 degree: May require machine work for valve clearance. 
288's make FAT power. :thumbup:

Hit the 12v VR6 forums for eleventy billion topics on cams. Find what is right for your budget, power goals, and drving style.


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Too vauge of a question. Budget, and power goals come into play, but here is a little insight.
> 
> 262's: Dont lose to much low end power, gain a litle up top, do not require valve springs.
> 266's and all in between 262-268: Might require valve springs, and will be a little more mid range with a little bottom end loss.
> ...


Sorry for the vaugue-ness, but that was exactly what I was looking for, I am more interested in getting low end torque. I am happy with the stock power for the most part, but want the car to pull harder in the low end. 

I will check out the 12v vr6 forum as well. :beer:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> Sorry for the vaugue-ness, but that was exactly what I was looking for, I am more interested in getting low end torque. I am happy with the stock power for the most part, but want the car to pull harder in the low end.
> 
> I will check out the 12v vr6 forum as well. :beer:


Any cam will result in transfering the power band Higher not lower. 

No offense but asking for more wheel spin is kinda :screwy: and not needed, especially if the car has the Correct CDM coded gearbox (original Corrado SLC). 

The VR6 makes enough bottom end power as it is, you need more mid and top.


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Any cam will result in transfering the power band Higher not lower.
> 
> No offense but asking for more wheel spin is kinda :screwy: and not needed, especially if the car has the Correct CDM coded gearbox (original Corrado SLC).
> 
> The VR6 makes enough bottom end power as it is, you need more mid and top.


No offense taken and that makes sense.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

:beer: Cheers. 

And if it were me....288's and do big valved head.  Rev to 7500 and make power!!!!!!


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> :beer: Cheers.
> 
> And if it were me....288's and do big valved head.  Rev to 7500 and make power!!!!!!


Yeah that would be sick! Do you know a rough price as to how much it would cost?


----------



## THECISAG60 (May 14, 2010)

Here's an interesting problem... On my 90 G60 sometimes when you turn the key there is nothing other times it fires right up. This has been going on for a few months. When there is nothing I swear you can bounce up and down in the seat with the key turned to the start position and then it'll turn over and fire up. What could that be? A bad ground somewhere? What would shaking the car do that's making a connection somewhere? I honestly haven't gone over the car with a fine tooth comb yet but I would be interested to see where the experts car steer me and save me some time


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

THECISAG60 said:


> Here's an interesting problem... On my 90 G60 sometimes when you turn the key there is nothing other times it fires right up. This has been going on for a few months. When there is nothing I swear you can bounce up and down in the seat with the key turned to the start position and then it'll turn over and fire up. What could that be? A bad ground somewhere? What would shaking the car do that's making a connection somewhere? I honestly haven't gone over the car with a fine tooth comb yet but I would be interested to see where the experts car steer me and save me some time


Ignition switch


----------



## THECISAG60 (May 14, 2010)

Thanks, I'll start my search there. I did replace it a while ago and put a fresh connector with new leads. But maybe it's due for another switch.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

THECISAG60 said:


> Thanks, I'll start my search there. I did replace it a while ago and put a fresh connector with new leads. But maybe it's due for another switch.


There is an easy way to check it. Pull the bottom half of the clamshell off. When you start the car push on the ignition switch toward the key. If it works everytime doing that then it is a bad switch.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> There is an easy way to check it. Pull the bottom half of the clamshell off. When you start the car push on the ignition switch toward the key. If it works everytime doing that then it is a bad switch.


ooh! I'm gonna hold on to that nugget of advice! :thumbup:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> Yeah that would be sick! Do you know a rough price as to how much it would cost?


about $3500.....again, making big NA power on a VR6 is not cheap. Pay to Play.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Kyle: Would you be able to post a few ETKA diagrams on here for a local fellow Corrado owner? I'm looking for Illustration # 182-10, 182-20, and 182-00. Thanks! :beer: and a free pumpkin: umpkin:


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> about $3500.....again, making big NA power on a VR6 is not cheap. Pay to Play.


Thats actually not to bad...Thanks for your help :thumbup:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> ooh! I'm gonna hold on to that nugget of advice! :thumbup:


I had to do it for a while on my car.



[email protected] said:


> Kyle: Would you be able to post a few ETKA diagrams on here for a local fellow Corrado owner? I'm looking for Illustration # 182-10, 182-20, and 182-00. Thanks! :beer: and a free pumpkin: umpkin:


If you want to send me a PM later tonight or an email and remind me I can do it. No ETKA at work with me today. Left the laptop at home.


----------



## THECISAG60 (May 14, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> There is an easy way to check it. Pull the bottom half of the clamshell off. When you start the car push on the ignition switch toward the key. If it works everytime doing that then it is a bad switch.


Good, good, I roll like this for a while if I have too


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> If you want to send me a PM later tonight or an email and remind me I can do it. No ETKA at work with me today. Left the laptop at home.


OK I'll try to remember! Thanks!

Also, I can't change my account name so I had to start a new one. I'll be on here as *pej* starting soon. At least I can make offensive comments and piss people off now without it coming back on the business.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> OK I'll try to remember! Thanks!
> 
> Also, I can't change my account name so I had to start a new one. I'll be on here as *pej* starting soon. At least I can make offensive comments and piss people off now without it coming back on the business.


future noob eace:


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Man, for the life of me can't remember his name, dpgreek maybe??? But whoever it was, was recently selling it in the SE regional FS thread, but just went thru it and seems as if the post was deleted, it is a red TDI C and I believe the guy was out of Atlanta, but try this... http://www.google.com/search?aq=f&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=TDI+corrado :thumbup:


Yea the Red corrado is the one I remember seeing pictures of. Thanks for the info, pretty pathetic that a google search gives better results here at vortex than doing a vortex search. :laugh:


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

Dear experts,









What wheels are those?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> pretty pathetic that a google search gives better results here at vortex than doing a vortex search. :laugh:


yep


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

chrisd1891 said:


> Dear experts,
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Look like some type of borbet to me, but I couldnt find them. On another note, what is with the headlights on that Corrado?


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

Brock B4


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

G60 ECU question. Anyone know the difference in the Purple label ones and the white label ones? Was it just a matter of what ink was on hand... or are the differences much greater? 
The P# I have for a white label is DF1 037 906 022 EK
I dont know what the P#s for the purple labels are.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

Only dif between g60 ecu's will be auto vs. Manual cars. Otherwise they the same. 

As for differentiation based on color of inks, I'm not aware of that being an indicator.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Noobercorn said:


> Only dif between g60 ecu's will be auto vs. Manual cars. Otherwise they the same.
> 
> As for differentiation based on color of inks, I'm not aware of that being an indicator.


although Cali had different ECU's entirely 

Good to see you back in your thread Mc. Noob :beer:


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

really? i was not aware of that. :thumbup:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Noobercorn said:


> really? i was not aware of that. :thumbup:


:thumbup::thumbup: different pinout on the chip for stronger emission control, I presume, like you can't put a cali chip in a non-cali ecu and vice versa


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

i would have expected a different EPROM, not a whole different ECU (based solely on production and manufacturing costs)


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Noobercorn said:


> Only dif between g60 ecu's will be auto vs. Manual cars. Otherwise they the same.
> 
> As for differentiation based on color of inks, I'm not aware of that being an indicator.


any one with ETKA can pull the differing part #s for the manual vs auto ECUS for G60s?

and while I'm posting here...
anyone know what front bumper this is? Or was it a custom job done by some owner.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

cyberstasi said:


> and while I'm posting here...
> anyone know what front bumper this is? Or was it a custom job done by some owner.


definately oe front bumper with number plate recess cut off (for better airflow on a FMIC I pressume)


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> definately oe front bumper with number plate recess cut off (for better airflow on a FMIC I pressume)


Thats what I figured, but wasnt sure. I couldnt remember if the BBM bumper was like that or not. I seem to recall Betz's race corrado having another vent in the front for the FMIC on his Race Corrado.

In other news... I was reading through my factory manual today to try to figure out my auto tranny problems and came upon this..








Is there anyway a mere mortal like us can obtain such a tool? When I asked the dealership a few months ago if they could diagnose my TCM to find out what the issue is, they said 'we dont have the needed tool'. If the dealership doesnt have it... where can I find one.
I'm assuming this is more than just a generic OBD scanner. Since my corrado doesnt have a ODB port anywhere. 
And yes... I know I should just replace my auto transmission with a manual, but unless someone on this forum is going to donate a manual tranny along with the peddles and shifter mech... Its not going to happen anytime soon. lol


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

cyberstasi said:


> any one with ETKA can pull the differing part #s for the manual vs auto ECUS for G60s?


 
engine control unit / PG,KR,ABV,


lambda probe / switch unit 'tci'
/ 9A,2E,ADY
1 811997384 X


engine control unit
/ KR
(1) 037997022 X


engine control unit / F >> 50-L-021 000
'DIGIFANT' / PG
(1) 037997022 X



engine control unit / to be used for: / F >> 50-L-021 000
'DIGIFANT' 037 997 022 X / PG
(1) 037906022EG


engine control unit / F 50-L-021 001>> 50-N-035 000
'DIGIFANT' / PG
(1) 037997022BX



engine control unit / F >> 50-N-035 000
'DIGIFANT' / automatic: PG
(1) 037997022BX




engine control unit / to be used for: / F >> 50-N-035 000
'DIGIFANT' 037 997 022 BX / automatic: PG
(1) 037906022EK



engine control unit / F >> 50-N-035 000
'DIGIFANT' rhd / automatic: PG
(1) 037906023H


engine control unit / F 50-P-000 001>>
'DIGIFANT' / PG
(1) 037997024TX


engine control unit / F >> 50-R-004 000*
'DIGIFANT' / 2E
(1) 037997024TX



engine control unit / to be used for: / F >> 50-R-004 000*
'DIGIFANT' 037 997 024 TX / 2E
(1) 037906024AF


engine control unit / F 50-R-004 001>>*
'DIGIFANT' / 2E
(1) 037997024AX



engine control unit / to be used for: / F 50-R-004 001>>*
'DIGIFANT' 037 906 024 AF / 2E
(1) 037906024AA


engine control unit
'DIGIFANT' / automatic: 2E
(1) 021997258KX


engine control unit / F >> 50-P-009 000
'MOTRONIC' / ABV
(1) 021997258KX



engine control unit / to be used for: / F >> 50-P-009 000
'MOTRONIC' 021 997 258 KX / ABV
(1) 021997258MX



engine control unit / F >> 50-P-009 000
'MOTRONIC' / automatic: ABV
(1) 021997258MX




engine control unit / to be used for: / F >> 50-P-009 000
'MOTRONIC' 021 997 258 MX / automatic: ABV
(1) 021997258NX





engine control unit / F 50-P-009 001>> 50-S-000 718
'MOTRONIC' / automatic/ manual- gearbox: ABV
(1) 021997258NX






engine control unit / to be used for: / F 50-P-009 001>> 50-S-000 718
'MOTRONIC' 021 997 258 NX / automatic/ manual- gearbox: ABV
(1) 021997258GX


engine control unit / F 50-S-000 719>>
'MOTRONIC' / ABV
(1) 021997258GX



engine control unit / to be used for: / F 50-S-000 719>>
'MOTRONIC' 021 997 258 GX / ABV
(1) 8A0997404 X


engine control unit / F >> 50-S-000 936
'KE-MOTRONIC' / 9A
(1) 8A0997404 X



engine control unit / to be used for: / F >> 50-S-000 936
'KE-MOTRONIC' 8A0 997 404 X / 9A
(1) 8A0997404GX


engine control unit / F 50-S-000 937>>
'KE-MOTRONIC' / 9A
(1) 8A0997404GX



engine control unit / to be used for: / F 50-S-000 937>>
'KE-MOTRONIC' 8A0 997 404 GX / 9A
(1) 037906025D

engine control unit
'SIMOS' / ADY


----------



## crisvr6 (Jun 14, 2007)




----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

thanks noobercorn and crisvr6. :beer:


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

cyberstasi said:


> Is there anyway a mere mortal like us can obtain such a tool?


vag 1551 and 1552 are virtually the same for your purpose, therefore you should be able to use vag com *IF* you have the 2x2 cable

or, just do what i do and make your own diagnostic port (following the ECU pin outs for the K, L, and possibly TCM)

(21, 43. #'s 11 and 18 may be of use also, in an auto, i dont remember)

the following is for an VR6, and ABA (obviously) below that is PG....

*Pin Function Color, VR6 OBD1 Color, ABA OBD1 Color, ABA OBD2 Color, VR6 OBD2*
_1 Ground Brown Brown/Red Brown/Red Brown/Red
2 Cylinder Injector Gray/Yellow (Injector 6) White/Gray (Injector 2) White/Gray (Injector 4) Gray/Blue (Injector 4)
3 Cylinder Injector Gray/Green (Injector 2) - - Gray/Black (Injector 5)
4 Cylinder Injector Gray/Blue (Injector 4) - - Gray/Yellow (Injector 6)
5 Check Engine Light Yellow/Black Yellow/Black Yellow/Black Yellow/Black
6 Fuel Pump Relay Turn-On Yellow/Blue Yellow/Blue Yellow/Blue Yellow/Blue
7 Ground (also Auto. Trans. Harness, for PNP Relay) Brown/Red Brown/Red Brown/Black (also Brown/Red- auto. only) Brown/Black
8 Coil Pack Pin 2 (VR6 Coilpack), Coil Signal (ABA, VR6 Dist.) Black/Brown or Black Red (Dist.) Black/Red Black/Red Black/Brown
9 Engine Electronics Relay (3) Turn-On Black/Brown Black/Brown - -
10 Ground (OBD1 EGR enable), Throttle Valve Motor Switch (OBD2) Brown/White or White Brown/White or White
Red/Green
White
*11 Automatic Transmission Control Module Blue/Yellow Blue/Yellow Blue/Yellow Blue/Yellow*
12 Oxygen Sensor 1 Heater Ground - - Brown Brown
13 Oxygen Sensor 2 Signal Black/Yellow (late 94+Corrado only) - White/Red White/Red
14 Coolant Temperature Sensor Blue Blue Blue Blue
15 EGR Temperature Sensor Violet Violet Violet (not connected to sensor) -
16 Mass Airflow Sensor Ground Brown/Blue Brown/Red Brown/Blue Brown
17 Mass Airflow Sensor Signal Red Red Blue Blue
*18 Automatic Transmission Control Module Yellow/Red Yellow/Red Yellow/Red Yellow/Red*
19 Power for MAP and Acceleration Sensors (late 94+ Corrado) Yellow/Black - - -
20 Oxygen Sensor 1 Signal White White White White
*21 Data Link Connector (L-Line) Yellow Yellow Yellow (Automatic Only) Yellow (Automatic Only)*
22 Tachometer Output Green/Black Green/Black Green/Black Green/Black
23 Power From Engine Electronics Relay (3) Output (OBD1), Fuse 15 Power (OBD2) Red/Blue Red/Blue Black/Yellow Black/Yellow
24 Cylinder Injector Gray (Injector 1) White/Black (Injector 1) Gray (Injector 1) Gray (Injector 1)
25 Cylinder Injector Gray/Black (Injector 5) White/Green (Injector 3) Gray/Green (Injector 2) Gray/Green (Injector 2)
26 Cylinder Injector Gray/Red (Injector 3) White/Blue (Injector 4) Gray/Red (Injector 3) Gray/Red (Injector 3)
27 Idle Air Control Valve (OBD1), Throttle Valve Motor + (OBD2) Red/Blue White Black Black
28 Heated Oxygen Sensor Relay Turn-On, Oxygen Sensor 1 Heater Ground (late 94+ Corrado) White (Brown- late 94+ Corrado) White - -
29 - - - - -
30 EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Valve (Change-Over Valve- late 94+ Corrado) Green/Gray Green/Gray Green/Gray (not connected to valve) Green/White
31 Evap. Canister Purge Regulator Valve Green/Yellow Green/Yellow Green/Yellow Green/Yellow
32 Acceleration Sensor (late 94+ Corrado) White/Gray - - -
33 Sensors Ground (Knock, Coolant, Throttle, Exhaust Gas Temp, Intake Air Temp, RPM, Manifold Pressure, Acceleration Sensors) Brown Brown Brown/Blue Brown/Blue
34 Knock Sensor 1 Gray Gray Gray Gray
35 Leak Detection Pump, Fuel Cut-off Valve (A3) - - Yellow/Brown -
36 Intake Air Temperature Sensor Blue/Green Blue/Green White/Gray Blue/Green
37 Air Conditioning "On" Switch (At Compressor) Green Green Green Green
38 Ignition Switch Start/Run Power Black/Green Black - -
39 Air Conditioning "On" Switch (Inside Cabin) Blue/Red Blue Blue Blue/Red
40 Throttle Position Sensor Signal 1 Green/White Green/White or Green/Gray Red/Blue Green/White
41 Throttle Position Sensor Power Black/Gray Black/Yellow (also cam position sensor) Red/White Black/Gray
42 Oxygen Sensor 1 Sensor Ground (Shared for both sensors- late 94+ Corrado) Yellow Yellow Yellow Yellow
*43 Data Link Connector (K-Line) Gray/White Gray/White Gray/White Gray/White*
44 Camshaft Position Sensor White/Red White/Red Green/White White/Red
45 - - - - -
46 Leak Detection Pump (A3) - - Gray/Violet -
47 Oxygen Sensor 2 Heater Ground (late 94+ Corrado) Red/Brown - - -
48 - - - - -
49 Secondary Air Injection Relay Turn-On Red/Gray - Gray/Brown Red/Gray or Gray/Brown
50 (Various- ground-switched) Red/Yellow (N180 Change Over Valve- Passat), Red/Gray (AIR Relay, Ctrl. No. 111- Corrado from late 1993) Red/Gray (AIR Relay, Ctrl. No. 111) Red/Yellow (N112 AIR Solenoid Purge Regulator Valve) Red/Yellow (N112 AIR Solenoid Valve)
51 To Instrument Cluster (MFA MPG) Violet/White Violet/White Violet/White Violet/White
52 Coil Pack Pin 4 Black/Violet - - Black/Violet
53 Idle Air Control Valve (OBD1), Throttle Valve Motor - (OBD2) Black/White Black/White White Black/White
54 Battery Power Red/Yellow Red/Yellow Red Red
55 Ground Brown/Black Brown/Black - -
56 Ground Brown/White Brown/White Brown/Black Brown/Black
57 Knock Sensor 2 Yellow or Green/Yellow - - Yellow or Green/Yellow
58 Ground (OBD1 Automatic Only), Oxygen Sensor 2 Sensor Ground (OBD2) White White Yellow or Black/Yellow Yellow or Black/Yellow
59 Mass Airflow Sensor Black - - -
60 Coil Pack Pin 3 Black/Blue - - Black/Blue
61 - - - - -
62 Throttle Position Sensor Signal 2, or MAP Sensor (Corrado) White/Green (late 94+ Corrado only) - Red/Gray Red/Gray
63 - - - - -
64 - - - - -
65 Vehicle Speed Sensor Blue/White White/Yellow White/Yellow Blue/White
66 Oxygen Sensor 2 Heater Ground Brown/White (late 94+ Corrado only) - Brown Brown
67 Engine RPM Sensor Ground Red Red Red Red
68 Engine RPM Sensor Signal Green Green Green Green_
*
Digifant I G60 Engine Controller:
Pin Function Color- 1990 G60 Color- 1991 G60 Color- 1992 G60*_
1 Starter Power Red/Green Red/Green Red/Green
2 Oxygen Sensor Green Violet Violet
3 Fuel Pump Red/Yellow Yellow/Blue Yellow/Blue
4 Knock Sensor White White White
5 CO Potentiometer Blue Blue Blue
6 Ground for sensors Brown/White Brown/White Brown/White
7 Knock Sensor shield and ground Braided Wire and Brown Black and Yellow Black and Yellow
8 Distributor Pin 3 (positive) Red/Black Red/Black Red/Black
9 Intake Air Temperature Sensor Blue/White Blue/White Blue/White
10 Coolant Temperature Sensor Brown/Green Brown/Green Brown/Green
11 Idle/WOT Switch Red/Blue Red/Blue Red/Blue
12 Injector Power Red Brown/Yellow Brown/Yellow
13 Ground Brown Brown Brown
14 Power from Control Unit Relay Black/Yellow Black/Yellow Black/Yellow
15 Fuel Enrichment Switch Blue/Black Blue/Black Blue/Black
16 A/C compressor signal Green Green Green
17 Airflow Sensor Potentiometer - - -
18 Distributor Pin 2 (hall sender) Green/White Green/White Green/White
19 Ground Brown/Black Brown/White Brown/White
20 Malfunction Light/Switch Yellow - -
21 A/T Controller - Yellow/Red Yellow/Red
22 Idle Stabilizer Valve White White White
23 Control Unit Relay Turn-On Black/White - -
24 Tachometer signal to cluster - - Green/Yellow
25 To Ignition Coil Pin 1 Green Green Green_


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

crisvr6 said:


> pic posted


chris and i used the SAME exact source for our reply. we're twins. :wave:


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Noobercorn said:


> vag 1551 and 1552 are virtually the same for your purpose, therefore you should be able to use vag com *IF* you have the 2x2 cable


Ah... so the dealership basically told me the truth, they dont have the old 1551 scanners around. Even though they could accomplish the same task with the newer scanners. Sigh.. serves me right for dealing with the new guy at the service desk instead of the guy I normally do.
Thanks again man.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

:thumbup:


----------



## crisvr6 (Jun 14, 2007)

Noobercorn said:


> chris and i used the SAME exact source for our reply. we're twins. :wave:


vag cat :wave:


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

How do I get to the torx bolts to remove the sunroof panel? My sunroof only tilts & I can only see two of the four torx bolts. Do I have to loosen/remove the bolts that hold the track in place also?

_______________________________________________________


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

PrjktRado1 said:


> How do I get to the torx bolts to remove the sunroof panel? My sunroof only tilts & I can only see two of the four torx bolts. Do I have to loosen/remove the bolts that hold the track in place also?
> 
> _______________________________________________________


you need to pop the shade/slider loose and slide it back


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

:thumbup:


Sr. Karmann said:


> you need to pop the shade/slider loose and slide it back


Great, thanks. :thumbup: Now I'll have to see what else is broken. :facepalm:


----------



## DasHunta (Jan 19, 2009)

1993 Corrado Tdi
Green with color matched RS's on coils.

Question: My previous car was a Mk5 GTI on an air ride setup by Airlift, and I'd love to go the same route with the rado. What set ups have had the best reviews and what main issues do people run into when bagging Corrados?

:beer::beer::beer:


Bump for any feedback. Much appreciated. Also, for those in FL or surrounding states, I'll be out at Fixxfest this Saturday so if you want to come chat I'll be parked by the VAP Motorsports tent. See you there!


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

Does anybody know anything about the old EIP Tuning big valve head for the VR6? I apparently have one on my car and didn't even realize it. Search yielded nothing significant.


----------



## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

*Aftermarket intercooler question*

My completely Stage 4 G60 is hibernating for the winter and I have a list of things I am going to do to it. One of the things I am looking into is a larger intercooler. Mine has the stock one hidden in the fender under the battery. Since I am going to replace all the hoses going to it I was thinking about replacing it with a rectangular one mounted under the radiator. I probably have to remove the front bumper to do all the work but thats ok. 
Is there a benefit of installing a larger semi-exposed intercooler?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

jgcable said:


> My completely Stage 4 G60 is hibernating for the winter and I have a list of things I am going to do to it. One of the things I am looking into is a larger intercooler. Mine has the stock one hidden in the fender under the battery. Since I am going to replace all the hoses going to it I was thinking about replacing it with a rectangular one mounted under the radiator. I probably have to remove the front bumper to do all the work but thats ok.
> Is there a benefit of installing a larger semi-exposed intercooler?


that intercooler was designed by VW, therefore sized properly and is in an optimal location for cooling, provided you still have your intercooler duct. I personally would not change it, unless you were dramatically increasing air flow :thumbup:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

jgcable said:


> My completely Stage 4 G60 is hibernating for the winter and I have a list of things I am going to do to it. One of the things I am looking into is a larger intercooler. Mine has the stock one hidden in the fender under the battery. Since I am going to replace all the hoses going to it I was thinking about replacing it with a rectangular one mounted under the radiator. I probably have to remove the front bumper to do all the work but thats ok.
> Is there a benefit of installing a larger semi-exposed intercooler?





Sr. Karmann said:


> that intercooler was designed by VW, therefore sized properly and is in an optimal location for cooling, provided you still have your intercooler duct. I personally would not change it, unless you were dramatically increasing air flow :thumbup:


Chad, I have to disagree...just because VW design it doesn't make it right (just look at how many things VW designed on the Corrado that went wrong...:sly: ). 
VW did not have in mind a flowed/ported g-lader and other (stage 4^^) mods, so my opinion is that for a stock G60 eqquiped vehicle its fine but for a "stage 4" car my opinion is that its just not efficient any more. 

However, I have to state that the location/size and *especially* the routing (air routing) does play a significant role. I've seen aftermarket units that don't work right so be careful with the piping routing/sizing (try to use as little as possible silicon couplers too) and If it was me I would try to keep as close to oe routing design as possible - that's why the oe Rallye/non AC Golf G60 FMICs are the best to get and work the best (but they are expensive and rare to find)  

*There is a company in Germany that manufactures an exact replica of the Rallye FMIC, check out Wagner-Tuning ...


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

PrjktRado1 said:


> :thumbup:
> 
> Great, thanks. :thumbup: Now I'll have to see what else is broken. :facepalm:


It's a pain but I got mine out - you just have to get it tilted up and angle your torx bit in there. We did it at the body shop when mine was in for paint. Stop down here one day (before 5) and I can show ya.



Sr. Karmann said:


> that intercooler was designed by VW, therefore sized properly and is in an optimal location for cooling, provided you still have your intercooler duct. I personally would not change it, unless you were dramatically increasing air flow :thumbup:


Hmm my I/C duct is sitting in the back of the car. Body shop forgot to reinstall it. :thumbdown:


----------



## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

*Central lock*

My central lock was working fine but its been a couple of time where i find my pass door & trunk not locked in the morning, or my GF cant get in cause only my door unlock... Idk if its from when i removed the handle to lube it, i looked at it this weekend and it worked 3-4 times after i replace the handle but now its working only after many try and on the passanger side it work right away.

So it can't be the pump neither the relay/fuse cause its only on driver side, so this lead the problem pointed toward the driver door... It seems pretty simple but idk what it could be cause its intermitent 

Thanks for any help/hint :laugh:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Chad, I have to disagree...just because VW design it doesn't make it right (just look at how many things VW designed on the Corrado that went wrong...:sly: ).
> VW did not have in mind a flowed/ported g-lader and other (stage 4^^) mods, so my opinion is that for a stock G60 eqquiped vehicle its fine but for a "stage 4" car my opinion is that its just not efficient any more.
> 
> However, I have to state that the location/size and *especially* the routing (air routing) does play a significant role. I've seen aftermarket units that don't work right so be careful with the piping routing/sizing (try to use as little as possible silicon couplers too) and If it was me I would try to keep as close to oe routing design as possible - that's why the oe Rallye/non AC Golf G60 FMICs are the best to get and work the best (but they are expensive and rare to find)
> ...


Nicky, there are a few other things to consider when selecting an intercooling option, first, it is a supercharger and does not get that hot. 2nd, placement of a FMIC will have a bit of heatsoak at lower speeds due to sitting near the rad and condensor, where the sidemount is away from ALL potential heat sources. 3 increasing volume of the chamber will advesley affect the charger's ability to make pressure quickly, more volume to fill (e=mc2 ) Kidding on the e=mc, but still... you get the idea. 4 even with porting and a smaller pulley, you are really not increasing the CFM's enough to compensate for the additional cooling or volume to fill, just my .02 



pej said:


> Hmm my I/C duct is sitting in the back of the car. Body shop forgot to reinstall it. :thumbdown:


If it makes you feel any better, I have never had one installed, have had one for almost a year and was still to damn lazy to put it in :screwy:


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> If it makes you feel any better, I have never had one installed, have had one for almost a year and was still to damn lazy to put it in :screwy:


Too lazy... same reason mine hasn't found it's way back to it's proper place either! :thumbup:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Nicky, there are a few other things to consider when selecting an intercooling option, first, it is a supercharger and does not get that hot. 2nd, placement of a FMIC will have a bit of heatsoak at lower speeds due to sitting near the rad and condensor, where the sidemount is away from ALL potential heat sources. 3 increasing volume of the chamber will advesley affect the charger's ability to make pressure quickly, more volume to fill (e=mc2 ) Kidding on the e=mc, but still... you get the idea. 4 even with porting and a smaller pulley, you are really not increasing the CFM's enough to compensate for the additional cooling or volume to fill, just my .02
> 
> ...



Maybe it "doesn't get that hot" but anything that provides more/better cooling on FI is always beneficial for hp.
Yeah, I don't have an AC (thus no condesor)  
You're the first person that I've met that finds the oe side mount IC and its location good or efficient :sly: ... 

I'm not gonna get that "technical" :laugh: but Chad are you saying that a larger FMIC won't make any hp difference  I've seen dyno results of 25whp gain just by fitting a Rallye FMIC !!! I cannot find that link right now :banghead: (think I saw it on "the-Corrado.net") but ask "g60racer" here if you want 


edit: how come nobody never thought of placing two oe side mount ICs (all TT-style) on a Corrado G60???


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Nicky, there are a few other things to consider when selecting an intercooling option, first, it is a supercharger and does not get that hot. 2nd, placement of a FMIC will have a bit of heatsoak at lower speeds due to sitting near the rad and condensor, where the sidemount is away from ALL potential heat sources. 3 increasing volume of the chamber will advesley affect the charger's ability to make pressure quickly, more volume to fill (e=mc2 ) Kidding on the e=mc, but still... you get the idea. 4 even with porting and a smaller pulley, you are really not increasing the CFM's enough to compensate for the additional cooling or volume to fill, just my .02


I used to heat soak my intercooler on a 3rd gear pull. My ass the charger doesn't that hot.

I would go with AWIC anyways if I did things over again. I would even put the core in the same spot as the factory IC to make it look factory.


----------



## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

Thanks for the replies regarding the intercooler. 
If it was a definate weak spot I would replace it but apparently it isn't. My car isn't a race car and its rarely going to be driven very hard. I am going to replace all the hoses though. Most of them appear to be original. I think even my spark plug wires are original. 
That will all be sorted out over the winter.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Maybe it "doesn't get that hot" but anything that provides more/better cooling on FI is always beneficial for hp.
> Yeah, I don't have an AC (thus no condesor)
> You're the first person that I've met that finds the oe side mount IC and its location good or efficient :sly: ...
> 
> ...


I'd like to see the comparison with RPM & boost reading ratios along with volume aspects, i.e. boost tube length and size as well as actual IC volume 



TheBurninator said:


> I used to heat soak my intercooler on a 3rd gear pull. My ass the charger doesn't that hot.
> 
> I would go with AWIC anyways if I did things over again. I would even put the core in the same spot as the factory IC to make it look factory.


Not that hot referred to "like not as hot as a turbo"


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> edit: how come nobody never thought of placing two oe side mount ICs (all TT-style) on a Corrado G60???


I'm sure people have, but they've probably ditched it due to 'some reason'. I've thought of it myself, but I couldnt find a company that made a kit for it. And I really dont want to manage the R&D on that one myself. I'm just dont care enough at the moment to spend the time figuring it out, maybe in another year or so... lol. But then the question becomes why not the 2 side mount IC's along with a Front Mount. Yea... I know... that'd be overkill.



TheBurninator said:


> I would go with AWIC anyways if I did things over again. I would even put the core in the same spot as the factory IC to make it look factory.


Whats the cost comparison between a good FMIC setup and a AWIC setup?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> Yea... that'd be *overly complex for no gains*


Fixed.

Or you could just use a single sidemount core that is more efficient than the stock one. Or a single front mount. Or get rid of the G60 and put a decent engine in the car.


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

91 g60 automatic when adjusting the timing using a timing light do use the circle or the oval on the belhousing. They are both right under the cooling flange and the bently just shows the 5 speed


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

nu2dubbing said:


> 91 g60 automatic when adjusting the timing using a timing light do use the circle or the oval on the belhousing. They are both right under the cooling flange and the bently just shows the 5 speed


bentley also says you can use cam pulley mark and lower timing belt cover arrow if you cannot see down in your bellhousing, 13.7 fig A


----------



## g60nw (Mar 30, 2010)

Anyone know the hose id size for the brake line from the brake fluid reservoir to the master cylinder?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

g60nw said:


> Anyone know the hose id size for the brake line from the brake fluid reservoir to the master cylinder?


IIRC, 3/8" hose


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

Karman you are the man. I think you tried to explain that once to me but I was fixated on the belhousing hole. Anyway if anyone wants to know when I used the cam sprocket my 6 degree mark was in the oval almost at the edge close to the radiator. I'm guessing with some fine tuning it will be at the edge


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

nu2dubbing said:


> Karman you are the man. I think you tried to explain that once to me but I was fixated on the belhousing hole. Anyway if anyone wants to know when I used the cam sprocket my 6 degree mark was in the oval almost at the edge close to the radiator. I'm guessing with some fine tuning it will be at the edge


:thumbup:


----------



## reborndub (Jun 18, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Sorry to be an advertising whore here but I thought you guys would be interested in this... we've started making our own products, and we've got wheel spacers for cheap! VR6 and G60 fitments!
> 
> http://www.avenueautosport.com/Avenue-Autosport_bymfg_23-4-1.html
> 
> Thanks :beer:


 

freeeeee shipping!!!!!!!!!!!!! whore all you want :thumbup:


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Hey guys i own a corrado in canada and i swapped out my canadian two position headlight switch for the american three position switch when i installed my ecodes with the eurowires relayed harness. I was just wondering how to re-wire the headlight switch to make the DRL just turn on the city lights?

Also is there any reason my headlight switch would be controlling my fan after run?


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> Or get rid of the G60 and put a decent engine in the car.


I'm still debating all my options. Part of me wants to go with a 1.8T setup and then rip off the turbo and throw on a lysholm (like Betz's race corrado), another part of me wants to go with a classic 2.0 16VG60 (lysholm) setup... and then part of me wants to go the TDI route because its not so common.

So yea... so many options to choose from. Basically it comes down to if I want to make my Rado a Racer or a Cruiser. Right now I'm leaning towards the latter. But in another 4 months who knows. lol

If you had a fresh car to work on, what swap would you go with if you were looking to make a highway cruiser that can still handle the odd race on the back twisty roads.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> If you had a fresh car to work on, what swap would you go with if you were looking to make a highway cruiser that can still handle the odd race on the back twisty roads.


3.6 24v VR6 hands down, no questions asked.

It sounds great, it makes solid power, any 24v cams work in it (272 shricks anyone?) Basic bolts ons you could see 350whp without thinking about it.

If I was keeping it 4cyl I wouldn't touch a 20v setup. 16v is the only thing that would go in. And I would use the later style 2.0 block. (not ABA). I wouldn't deal with an annoying super charger that isn't even made anymore either. gt30 turbo or bust.


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> 3.6 24v VR6 hands down, no questions asked.
> 
> It sounds great, it makes solid power, any 24v cams work in it (272 shricks anyone?) Basic bolts ons you could see 350whp without thinking about it.
> 
> If I was keeping it 4cyl I wouldn't touch a 20v setup. 16v is the only thing that would go in. And I would use the later style 2.0 block. (not ABA). I wouldn't deal with an annoying super charger that isn't even made anymore either. gt30 turbo or bust.


Thanks for the advice. I'd rather stay with a 4cyl setup. a 5cyl would be interesting just for ****s and giggles, but id rather not venture into vr6 territory. I had a VR back about 7 years ago... sadly I only had it about 3 weeks before a semi backed into it and totaled it. Dont know if its just my faulty memory or not... but I remember it having understeer, where as my G60 has mild oversteer, which I kinda like. 
I would be tempted to drop one of the V6 TDIs though.  They just look sick. heh (yes Im aware the picture is of a Marine engine, but its a variant of the 3.0 V6 24v TDI CR Engine from a Touareg)


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> Thanks for the advice. I'd rather stay with a 4cyl setup. a 5cyl would be interesting just for ****s and giggles, but id rather not venture into vr6 territory. I had a VR back about 7 years ago... sadly I only had it about 3 weeks before a semi backed into it and totaled it. Dont know if its just my faulty memory or not... but I remember it having understeer, where as my G60 has mild oversteer, which I kinda like.
> I would be tempted to drop one of the V6 TDIs though.  They just look sick. heh (yes Im aware the picture is of a Marine engine, but its a variant of the 3.0 V6 24v TDI CR Engine from a Touareg)


VR6 is more refined, has nicer suspension setup, more reliable. Everyone says that they understeer but I have yet to drive a G60 that doesn't either. Might want to re-evaluate that one.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Sorry to be an advertising whore here but I thought you guys would be interested in this... we've started making our own products, and we've got wheel spacers for cheap! VR6 and G60 fitments!
> 
> http://www.avenueautosport.com/Avenue-Autosport_bymfg_23-4-1.html
> 
> Thanks :beer:


I've been searching for 2 x 12mm 4x100 hubcentric wheel spacers for my G60 (rear) for a decent price for quite some time now...Pm me with a price if you guys offer international shipping :thumbup: 



_edit: I just noticed, no 12mm 4x100 spacers ....However, shoot me a price for 2 x 10mm ones incl. shipping (if those will work on the rear of a Corrado)_


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> I've been searching for 2 x 12mm 4x100 hubcentric wheel spacers for my G60 (rear) for a decent price for quite some time now...Pm me with a price if you guys offer international shipping :thumbup:
> 
> 
> 
> _edit: I just noticed, no 12mm 4x100 spacers ....However, shoot me a price for 2 x 10mm ones incl. shipping (if those will work on the rear of a Corrado)_


Wasn't Jared offering free shipping? He should ship to you then 

Why not 15's in the rear Nick, just 3mm's? I questioned the crap out of my 25's, but they fit and look perfect, just an idea :thumbup:


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Wasn't Jared offering free shipping? He should ship to you then
> 
> Why not 15's in the rear Nick, just 3mm's? I questioned the crap out of my 25's, but they fit and look perfect, just an idea :thumbup:


et25 -15 = final et10  ....I haz the pulled fenders to pull them off (I think) but I can find 15mm Eibach from the local dealer here so 15's isn't really a problem  
It's been so long since un-succesfully searching for 12mm rear spacers that if I don't find them I'll just buy the 15mm Eibach ones...


----------



## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

Anyone?



Seb--Morin said:


> My central lock was working fine but its been a couple of time where i find my pass door & trunk not locked in the morning, or my GF cant get in cause only my door unlock... Idk if its from when i removed the handle to lube it, i looked at it this weekend and it worked 3-4 times after i replace the handle but now its working only after many try and on the passanger side it work right away.
> 
> So it can't be the pump neither the relay/fuse cause its only on driver side, so this lead the problem pointed toward the driver door... It seems pretty simple but idk what it could be cause its intermitent
> 
> Thanks for any help/hint :laugh:


----------



## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

*Short Shifter Options*

I have been doing a fair amount of research regarding short shifters for my G60
I am not happy with the long throw or side to side play of my stock shifter. There aren't a ton of options when it comes to the G60 and I considered modifying my existing one and that Neuspeed shifter but I decided on the B&M 02A (45106) from BBM. 
Most of the reviews are very good and 2 guys who have installed it both told me that the installation was totally from the inside of the car and took a little more than an hour. 
Some claimed the shifter is a little stiff and notchy. Others say its outstanding. Its supposed to be very similar to the newer shifters on the Audi TT and the A3. 
I have been very happy with B&M shifters in the past and they certainly are made very well. 
Unfortunately, the directions that come with it are not for the Corrado. On the BBM website they list the G60 as compatible but the installation instructions don't show it. It should be easy to figue out because its only a cable shifter. 
I should be getting it in a few days and I will post a complete tutorial with pictures for anybody who is interested. 
Does anybody here use this shifter on their G60? I couldn't find much here on it.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> et25 -15 = final et10  ....I haz the pulled fenders to pull them off (I think) but I can find 15mm Eibach from the local dealer here so 15's isn't really a problem
> It's been so long since un-succesfully searching for 12mm rear spacers that if I don't find them I'll just buy the 15mm Eibach ones...


I hear ya, have you tried BFI & ECS for 12mm?



Seb--Morin said:


> Anyone?


Ya man, check your vac line connections, at both tee's behind the dash and in the trunk, they love to pop off, best way to check, is go to lock or unlock, you will hear it sucking air, unless your vac pump is not working properly


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

jgcable said:


> I have been doing a fair amount of research regarding short shifters for my G60
> I am not happy with the long throw or side to side play of my stock shifter. There aren't a ton of options when it comes to the G60 and I considered modifying my existing one and that Neuspeed shifter but I decided on the B&M 02A (45106) from BBM.
> Most of the reviews are very good and 2 guys who have installed it both told me that the installation was totally from the inside of the car and took a little more than an hour.
> Some claimed the shifter is a little stiff and notchy. Others say its outstanding. Its supposed to be very similar to the newer shifters on the Audi TT and the A3.
> ...


I don't know if you stamble upon this thread on your search: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...s-and-a-Good-Short-Shifter-for-my-G60-Corrado 

...^^people suggest its bad for the syncros 

I always thought the B&M one did not work on the early Corrados, but I'm just probably wrong 

And here's a few more threads: 
http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5988 

http://the-corrado.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=20297


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I hear ya, have you tried BFI & ECS for 12mm?


Yep, negative on BFi, positive on ECS (12,5mm) :thumbup: :beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Yep, negative on BFi, positive on ECS (12,5mm) :thumbup: :beer:


:beer: and if they won't ship to you, which they should, I will :thumbup:


----------



## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> I don't know if you stamble upon this thread on your search: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...s-and-a-Good-Short-Shifter-for-my-G60-Corrado
> 
> ...^^people suggest its bad for the syncros
> 
> ...


I read about the syncros thing too but that doesn't make sense if its adjusted correctly. Its just a cable shifter. I think I could do more damage to my syncro's with the stock shifter with all its play and slop. 
I also read that it didn't work on the G60 but the guy I got it from on this forum had just installed one on his buddies G60 and it installed perfect and worked perfect. It was so nice that he bought one for his car but ended up installing a different motor and never used it. Its also listed on the BBM website as compatable.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

RedYellowWhite said:


> I've been searching for 2 x 12mm 4x100 hubcentric wheel spacers for my G60 (rear) for a decent price for quite some time now...Pm me with a price if you guys offer international shipping :thumbup:
> 
> _edit: I just noticed, no 12mm 4x100 spacers ....However, shoot me a price for 2 x 10mm ones incl. shipping (if those will work on the rear of a Corrado)_


Sorry we don't have any plans to do 12mm at this time. But we do ship internationally!



Sr. Karmann said:


> Wasn't Jared offering free shipping? He should ship to you then
> 
> Why not 15's in the rear Nick, just 3mm's? I questioned the crap out of my 25's, but they fit and look perfect, just an idea :thumbup:


We got 10 / 15 / 20mm, and yeah we'll ship 'em internationally, no sweat! And for cheaper than ECS! :thumbup:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

jgcable said:


> I read about the syncros thing too but that doesn't make sense if its adjusted correctly. Its just a cable shifter. I think I could do more damage to my syncro's with the stock shifter with all its play and slop.
> I also read that it didn't work on the G60 but the guy I got it from on this forum had just installed one on his buddies G60 and it installed perfect and worked perfect. It was so nice that he bought one for his car but ended up installing a different motor and never used it. Its also listed on the BBM website as compatable.


:thumbup: Although I would still call BBM to get a straight answer regarding compatibility for the G60 

I've only driven an Audi A3 with the B&M kit installed and I found the gear change feel a bit "harsh" but definately an improvement to gearstick travel feel


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Sorry we don't have any plans to do 12mm at this time. But we do ship internationally!
> 
> 
> 
> We got 10 / 15 / 20mm, and yeah we'll ship 'em internationally, no sweat! And for cheaper than ECS! :thumbup:


Jared, got your pm (and the 2nd one also :thumbup: ). 
I'll let you know by the end of the week but please try to 100% confirm rear fittement compatibility by then


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Jared, got your pm (and the 2nd one also :thumbup: ).
> I'll let you know by the end of the week but please try to 100% confirm rear fittement compatibility by then


Can anyone chime in as to why the 10mm might not fit on the rear hubs of a G60? I'll do what I can to get mine in the shop to test fit them sometime this week.


----------



## G0to60 (Jun 23, 2003)

For the past couple months I've had to top off my coolant every 250 miles or so on my G60. It has gone from the top full mark down to where the low coolant light comes on.

I have looked in all the places I can think of:

Temp sensor locations
Hose connections
Radiator end tanks
Heater Core (no coolant in the foot well or vents)
Water Pump
Around the head gasket

I haven't found any leaks or signs of leaks in any of these places. I guess the only other place is behind the head where the leak could evaporate from the exhaust.

The oil is also clean and there doesn't seem to be a lot of steam from the exhaust. No more then usual with it being cooler now.

Where else should I look for this leak? Thanks.


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## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Das.Rado said:


> Hey guys i own a corrado in canada and i swapped out my canadian two position headlight switch for the american three position switch when i installed my ecodes with the eurowires relayed harness. I was just wondering how to re-wire the headlight switch to make the DRL just turn on the city lights?
> 
> Also is there any reason my headlight switch would be controlling my fan after run?


Bump for my newb question. Any help is appreciated.


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> VR6 is more refined, has nicer suspension setup, more reliable. Everyone says that they understeer but I have yet to drive a G60 that doesn't either. Might want to re-evaluate that one.


G60 is more "chuckable", handles better, as far as reliability there are a lot of variables for both-hard to know which is worse overall. :wave:


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

92 vr (cali car):










black nub broke off this thing so I glued it back on. it doesn't look like it allows air in/out of hose that comes off from upper intake boot. I also noticed that there is a white plastic elbow that comes off of the same hose, but nothing is connected to it - am I missing something that goes there?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Das.Rado said:


> Bump for my newb question. Any help is appreciated.


there is a white wire you need to move on the switch harness, I tried to look for the pic yesterday, but couldn't find it

as far as the after-run with your headlight, you have issues


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## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> there is a white wire you need to move on the switch harness, I tried to look for the pic yesterday, but couldn't find it
> 
> as far as the after-run with your headlight, you have issues


Is it just a case of the white wire to nsl position?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Das.Rado said:


> Is it just a case of the white wire to nsl position?


possibly, was in my eurowires instruction


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

valet said:


> 92 vr (cali car):
> 
> 
> 
> ...


think that the white elbow goes to egr valve - I don't see any wiring for it or anything else related to it nor do I see the resistor people do when they remove the egr... so next question: did 92 vr6 corrados have egr valve?


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## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

G0to60 said:


> For the past couple months I've had to top off my coolant every 250 miles or so on my G60. It has gone from the top full mark down to where the low coolant light comes on.
> 
> I have looked in all the places I can think of:
> 
> ...


Do a leak down test. You could have a blown head gasket. If there is no coolant in the oil (you can tell by looking under your oil filler cap and on your dipstick for a milky white residue) your coolant may be leaking into an exhaust jacket and burning out through the tail pipe. 
A leak down test will tell you for sure. Certainly sounds like the beginnings of a BHG to me.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

valet said:


> think that the white elbow goes to egr valve - I don't see any wiring for it or anything else related to it nor do I see the resistor people do when they remove the egr... so next question: did 92 vr6 corrados have egr valve?


Yes, but only need to do the resistor if you have a CEL. No CEL cars will just show "Open Short to Ground EGR" when scanned.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

G0to60 said:


> For the past couple months I've had to top off my coolant every 250 miles or so on my G60. It has gone from the top full mark down to where the low coolant light comes on.
> 
> I have looked in all the places I can think of:
> 
> ...


Smell the exhaust. Does it smell sweet like coolant? Do the usual leak down and compression tests.

If there was coolant leaking out the backside of the engine near the exhaust you would see a whitish crustiness from where it dries.



jgcable said:


> I read about the syncros thing too but that doesn't make sense if its adjusted correctly. Its just a cable shifter. I think I could do more damage to my syncro's with the stock shifter with all its play and slop.
> I also read that it didn't work on the G60 but the guy I got it from on this forum had just installed one on his buddies G60 and it installed perfect and worked perfect. It was so nice that he bought one for his car but ended up installing a different motor and never used it. Its also listed on the BBM website as compatable.


The reason they are bad for the syncros is when you shorten the throw you are moving the shifting mechanism inside the trans faster. It engages the gears too quickly. You probably have worn bushings in the shifter if you have that much slop.

Also 02J shifter setup will give you the same exact feeling as the Audi TT/ mk4


----------



## Krazee (Jan 26, 2003)

I have stickied this thread so it can always remain on Page 1.

If this becomes too complicated for people to follow, I can always unsticky it.

Let me know.
:thumbup:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Krazee said:


> I have stickied this thread so it can always remain on Page 1.
> 
> If this becomes too complicated for people to follow, I can always unsticky it.
> 
> ...


awesome :beer:, and IIRC, search within the thread does work, although doesn't really need to be used :thumbup:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> . You probably have worn bushings in the shifter if you have that much slop.


best 7 bucks I EVER spent, shifts like new and short enough :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> awesome :beer:, :thumbup:


^^ x2


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

STICKY'D!!!!!!! Top of the forum for zee noobs.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> best 7 bucks I EVER spent, shifts like new and short enough :thumbup::thumbup:


There are also upgrated (brass) shifter bushings you can get, even for the G60, as I recenlty discovered


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Krazee said:


> I have stickied this thread so it can always remain on Page 1.
> 
> If this becomes too complicated for people to follow, I can always unsticky it.
> 
> ...


Louis, you really are doing well in making this forum a better place.



RedYellowWhite said:


> There are also upgrated (brass) shifter bushings you can get, even for the G60, as I recenlty discovered


Mind posting a link for the ones you found. I know Noah (Verdict Motorsports) sells them for VR6 and later style linkages


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Mind posting a link for the ones you found. I know Noah (Verdict Motorsports) sells them for VR6 and later style linkages


Here's a pic of them: 










and here's the guys description from ebay.co.uk: "One pair of brass gearbox gear selector fork bushes. These are a nice upgrade from the plastic versions which can break up under heavy loadings. Brand new. For O2A series cable change (vr6 G60 and 16v) gearboxes from Golf mk3, Vento, Corrado Passat and certain G60 mk2's. "

I don't know who makes them, I've searching on the internet for quite some time without being able to find the manufacturer...All I come up with is either the ones you mention above (VR6) or oe plastic replacements


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

bushings also at:
http://stores.homestead.com/Herbys53/Detail.bok?no=180


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Here's a pic of them:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


IIRC those aren't the ones that go into the cable ends though are they? They look like the ones that mount the bracket to the trans that holds the cables.

http://www.verdictmotorsports.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=0100


Also 42draftdesigns sells the ones for cables.



I run this guy with my short shifter on the mk1. (Shameless plug for Noah)
Less of an issue to get the car into gear now and brought the shifter up a bit.
http://www.verdictmotorsports.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=0121


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> IIRC those aren't the ones that go into the cable ends though are they? They look like the ones that mount the bracket to the trans that holds the cables.
> 
> http://www.verdictmotorsports.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=0100


^^That's what I was referring to upgrated bushings...I think there was a misunderstanding on my side :banghead: 

Kyle I'm sending you a pm regarding those, I don't want to embarrass myself in public


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^That's what I was referring to upgrated bushings...I think there was a misunderstanding on my side :banghead:
> 
> Kyle I'm sending you a pm regarding those, I don't want to embarrass myself in public


Replied


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## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

Yaay nOOb thread is sticky and shorter title! 

I was also looking to get a set of these metal shifter bushing to improve the feeling since it can be pretty sloppy sometimes and 1st is often resistant to engage... I wanted to know, they look all the same exept the brass one, does anyone have the dimension so i could CNC them myself?? They look pretty simple to do, im not looking to start a mass production but just a set or 2... And do i need to reajust the cable after i install them?

Thanks experts for the link btw


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Seb--Morin said:


> Yaay nOOb thread is sticky and shorter title!
> 
> I was also looking to get a set of these metal shifter bushing to improve the feeling since it can be pretty sloppy sometimes and 1st is often resistant to engage... I wanted to know, they look all the same exept the brass one, does anyone have the dimension so i could CNC them myself?? They look pretty simple to do, im not looking to start a mass production but just a set or 2... And do i need to reajust the cable after i install them?
> 
> Thanks experts for the link btw


No exact demensions. Just bust out the dial calipers and measure the holes.

And deff need a readjustment after putting those in.


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

DUBZAK said:


> Yes, but only need to do the resistor if you have a CEL. No CEL cars will just show "Open Short to Ground EGR" when scanned.


I've been looking for the traditional signs that the EGR has been removed/capped, but keep coming up empty. Car doesn't have the aux coolant bracket drilled for mounting of the solenoid (or whatever), no wiring harness/plug that I can see, no oil drain plug to plug EGR location (*where does the actual EGR plug into on obd1 dizzy corrado vr6?*) PO wasn't very meticulous so I doubt he did a proper job of removing the EGR and hiding the associated wires

I am so confused!


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

valet said:


> I've been looking for the traditional signs that the EGR has been removed/capped, but keep coming up empty. Car doesn't have the aux coolant bracket drilled for mounting of the solenoid (or whatever), no wiring harness/plug that I can see, no oil drain plug to plug EGR location (*where does the actual EGR plug into on obd1 dizzy corrado vr6?*) PO wasn't very meticulous so I doubt he did a proper job of removing the EGR and hiding the associated wires
> 
> I am so confused!


how about posting a pic or 3 of your motor. preferably the spot between the firewall and intake manifold.


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

DUBZAK said:


> how about posting a pic or 3 of your motor. preferably the spot between the firewall and intake manifold.



sorry first one is a bit washed out


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

it had an EGR at some point in time, you have the EGR lines between the exhaust manifolds. It has been deleted.


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

okay last EGR question (I hope)


obd1 dizzy corrado has the EGR solenoid as well? Is it a 2 wire plug or what? what color are the wires? Does anyone have a good pic of the EGR _in situ_ so that I can put it back together when I source the parts? I need it for cali visual isnpection

thanks


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

i have my deleted EGR. I am at work however. LMK if you want everything I took off. lol


----------



## nchanson (Jun 28, 2005)

*I will try anything.*

I did post this as a thread so I hope this is not repetative. Neil.

If you can solve this problem you are a true hero!

I have a 1990 G60.
It used to get 35 mpg on the Hwy, 22 in the city.
It now gets 30 and 14.
When I start it in the morning without touching the gas pedal it idles where you would expect.
Once I have depressed the gas it wants to idle at 2500 rpm.
Sometimes you can smell raw gas.
Sometimes you can turn it the car off and then back on to temporarily reduce the rpm.
Often, if in second gear I can use the break to bring the speed and the rpm down and it will stay there. Which to me rules out the stabilizer getting stuck.
Sometimes it will climb back up to 2500 rpm without you touching the gas.
The warmer the car gets the more the problem goes away.
This does not seem to be tied to either water or oil temperature, but rather to the ambient temperature under the hood. 
If I am driving in town with lots of stops then the problem can sometimes go away within 5 to 7 minutes. If it is cold out and I go out on to the hi-way right away then the problem can persist for ½ and hour or more.
The other noticeable issue is that once the above problem goes away you end up with a condition where when you let of the gas you get a huge head snapping drop In rpm. If you drive long enough the problem will go away as well.
Things that have been tried:
A replacement throttle stabilizer – Made no difference at all.
Took off the stabilizer, plugged the hoses – This cured the idle, but not the mileage issues.
Replace the temperature senders – Made no difference at all.
Replaced the O2 sensor– Made no difference at all.
Had it to the German car specialist several times– Made no difference at all.+
New plugs, cap and rotor– Made no difference at all.
It has been suggested that I swap out the ecs. This is expensive and I have heard of people doing this and still having issues. At this point I will do it if someone can explain to me why.
Has anyone else had these issues before? Thanks Neil.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

nchanson said:


> I did post this as a thread so I hope this is not repetative. Neil.
> 
> If you can solve this problem you are a true hero!
> 
> ...


How is the o2 sensor? Old as hell?

Also check for vacuum leaks and check the idle adjustment screw.


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

can the wiring be removed from the firewall without cutting or de-pinning connectors? 

it seems as if every loom is directly linked to the next one. i wanna start welding but got all those wires! :banghead::banghead::banghead:


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jettalvr41 said:


> can the wiring be removed from the firewall without cutting or de-pinning connectors?
> 
> it seems as if every loom is directly linked to the next one. i wanna start welding but got all those wires! :banghead::banghead::banghead:


You are probably going the wrong way with it.

They all go from the inside out. Start with the smallest connectors and work your way up to the largest and they will all pop right out. Should take about 10 minutes to pull all the wiring that runs into the bay. :thumbup:


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

I modified this pic I found on someone's f/s page

I just need to figure out where my plug is from the wiring harness that goes to solenoid, and where the other end of the metal tube goes (oh yeah and to procure the whole assembly)


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

there are 2 wires on the first plug, and there is another portion of the egr missing. It is the vacuum and also has a T2 Connector. T2 means 2 wires on the connector. 
Open up all the electrical tape I see on your wiring, and look for the wires that were cut.


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

DUBZAK said:


> there are 2 wires on the first plug, and there is another portion of the egr missing. It is the vacuum and also has a T2 Connector. T2 means 2 wires on the connector.
> Open up all the electrical tape I see on your wiring, and look for the wires that were cut.


okay cracked open all the rotted electrical tape:
I have

1 plug for tps
1 plug for isv
1 plug for aux water pump
1 plug for vsr
all plugs for oil filter housing
all plugs for alt, a/c, water flange sensors, sensor on side of intake mani, all injector plugs, hall sender plug.

as far as I can tell, there are no cut wires that I can see. (there's a total of four wires for the EGR system?) 

I haven't seen any unaccounted for wires or plugs in the engine bay and iirc no clipped wires from the fuse box.

the only suspect plug is a 2 wire plug that the PO tapped off in the rain tray... possibly it goes to hood alarm switch since the wires are too short to reach anywhere else?

so what colors are the wires for the EGR system? what part of the harness do they originate from (from fuse box, from ECU harness, from the big bundle of wires that has the twist connection that plugs in near aux water pump, etc...)?

I checked wiring diagram from the bentley and found the schematics for my car and see that I should be looking at wiring track 67 and 80.

track 67 says that the wires are br/g and br/y
track 80 says that the wires are r/bl and g/gy (and possibly bk/y) is this correct?










I'm tired of this isht

but thanks for the help


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

yes, you have the correct information, but who knows where the wires were cut out. 
If you are just trying to pass visual, then get the components, and yes, you are missing the vacuum block as well. 2 plugs total for the EGR and the vacuum solenoid.


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## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

TheBurninator said:


> You are probably going the wrong way with it.
> 
> They all go from the inside out. Start with the smallest connectors and work your way up to the largest and they will all pop right out. Should take about 10 minutes to pull all the wiring that runs into the bay. :thumbup:




no i got it all out of the bay. i need it away from the firewall so when i weld it don't burn it and stuff. plus like alot of them were cut by PO and i wanna fix them correctly.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

jettalvr41 said:


> no i got it all out of the bay. i need it away from the firewall so when i weld it don't burn it and stuff. plus like alot of them were cut by PO and i wanna fix them correctly.


 have you pulled the dash?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> have you pulled the dash?


And the carpet and pading


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> And the carpet and pading


YES, WAAAAAAAAAAAAAY more important than the wires, maybe he should contact Adam :laugh:


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> YES, WAAAAAAAAAAAAAY more important than the wires, maybe he should contact Adam :laugh:


He might want to pull the hatch glass before adam comes over


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> He might want to pull the hatch glass before adam comes over


I lol'd :beer:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I lol'd :beer:


^^ x2 :laugh:


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## Deus204 (Mar 28, 2007)

I've been rebuilding my cooling system on my 1990 G60 this week and finally got is all back to one piece and have now encountered a poblem. I started the car a few times and let it get up to temp and check for leaks. my fan wont turn on (tests as a bad fan switch) other that that all is good. The real issue stared when I turned the car off. The instant I turn the key to off I lose all power. I mean it is like the battery is not even connected. I checked the fuses and battery connection before I ran out of light to see. Both looked good, but i have not checked them with a multimeter yet, will do that tommorow when i find it. I would like to know if anyone has any ideas on what I should check when I go back to work on it tomorrow? Its really maddening to almost have the car back on the road and then have another major problem! :banghead:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Deus204 said:


> The instant I turn the key to off I lose all power.


 like you lose your odometer? sounds like maybe a dead battery, unless you pushed some wires and grounded something out or possibly hooked something up wrong or missed a ground... :beer:

Check everything closely :thumbup:


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## Deus204 (Mar 28, 2007)

Sr. Karmann said:


> like you lose your odometer? sounds like maybe a dead battery, unless you pushed some wires and grounded something out or possibly hooked something up wrong or missed a ground... :beer:
> 
> Check everything closely :thumbup:



Its a 1990 G60 so it has a mechanical odo. As it started and ran well a few times it is unlikely that i hood somethinng up wrong, as far as ignition goes. Its as if the battery is not connected. Before it died it did not have any hard starting issues that would point to a dead battery. A bad ground is my current best bet.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Deus204 said:


> Its a 1990 G60 so it has a mechanical odo. As it started and ran well a few times it is unlikely that i hood somethinng up wrong, as far as ignition goes. Its as if the battery is not connected. Before it died it did not have any hard starting issues that would point to a dead battery. A bad ground is my current best bet.





Deus204 said:


> The instant I turn the key to off I lose all power.


^ this is what I didn't get, like as in, you are supposed to cut power when the key is turned to the "off" position...


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## Deus204 (Mar 28, 2007)

Sr. Karmann said:


> ^ this is what I didn't get, like as in, you are supposed to cut power when the key is turned to the "off" position...


And then power is supposed to come back when you switch back to the run position. Its not. The interior light should come on, the headlight switch should light up when on and the MFA should display a clock even when the key is off. none of these things happen. Imagine that the battery is disconnected, that is state of my electrical system, only the battery is connected.


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## Deus204 (Mar 28, 2007)

So I got home and started running some tests and we have a new symptom! First I checked the battery voltage and its ok at ~12v, so I reconnect the battery and I have power again!:laugh:. Then I check the battery voltage again and still at ~12v. So I give the key a twist and nothing, all power is gone again. :banghead: Check the battery again and voltage is way down to ~2-3v. Disconnect the battery and it goes immediately back to ~12v. If I reconnect it i'm still without power, but the battery stays at ~12v. 

I've been digging in the bay and checked all the grounds and they are in the correct locations and have continuity. There is a small gauge, green w/ white stripe wire that comes of the harness next to the oil pressure switch on the head that i have no idea where it goes. if anyone could help with that it would be great. Also if someone could confirm the lines that go to the coil that would be very helpful.

I'm sorry if I came off a little short I'm my previous posts, just frustrated at the car.:facepalm:


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Deus204 said:


> ... just frustrated at the car.:facepalm:


Welcome to Corrado Ownership. 
Sadly I cant help you out with your problem, the only thing I can think of is to check the grounds in your ignition and steering column wiring loom. However in general it'll help if you get used to odd things like this going on with your car. Its just part of the Corrado 'Experience'


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## Lagoyda50 (Apr 29, 2008)

my head lights suck..i saw a thread about relaying to make them brighter


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## reborndub (Jun 18, 2009)

Lagoyda50 said:


> my head lights suck..i saw a thread about relaying to make them brighter


this is the ones that comes to my mind :thumbup:


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...raft-Designs-and-others....-(lighting-content)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3404610

http://www.eurowires.net/page5.html

http://www.rowand.net/shop/tech/images/HeadlightRelayWiringDiagram.jpg


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## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

Anyone know where I can get a Bleeder screw for one of my Vr6 Calipers? I went to do my brake job and noticed that one of the bleeder screws was half broken off... Or If im gonna have to purchase an entire caliper?...thanks


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## reborndub (Jun 18, 2009)

dfuze1 said:


> Anyone know where I can get a Bleeder screw for one of my Vr6 Calipers? I went to do my brake job and noticed that one of the bleeder screws was half broken off... Or If im gonna have to purchase an entire caliper?...thanks


any good a/p store should have one. just take a good one with you to match up.


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## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

*ISV reroute and hoses for my G60*

1990 G60, I went to every auto parts store within 20 miles of me and nobody carries any hoses that are these sizes in any colors. I am looking for red. 
The problem I am having is both the elbow and the large straight section have an oversize flare on one side. I think the problem is the T fitting. Its openings are smaller than the OEM intake and the black plastic intercooler pipe. 
I would like to replace this entire assembly with something more trick. The elbow and the large straight section are VW hoses. I don't think they are original for this car. The hose that goes from the ISV is a standard heater hose but because the opening in the T fitting is larger than the ISV opening the previous owner put an adapter hose inside the heater hose to reduce it down. 
Again, I think the T fitting is the problem. 
Here is a pic. Where can I get an aftermarket assembly like this. It must be very common.


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## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

Okay so i had spaghettis this afternoon...:screwy: lol no but i dropped the fuse box to try to make "more" things to work in my car.

So 1st, on the driver door contact switch i only had one female connector connected (one with plastic in pic). I found a wire with another female connector plug in serie with the wire going up so i tried to hook them up on the contact switch. Idk if its supposed to go there but i got my dome light ON but it was dimed so i unpluged both in case it was causing a short... I tried both connector on each side with same result.










2nd thing is 2 loose wire out of a relay (theres many more but meh..)
Relay located on top/separate from the panel, theres 2 big red wire coming to it and about 5-6 other smaller ones. The loose one are: pink/white (red dot in pic) and a brown and they have female/male connectors, but are they supposed to be wired together? out of the same relay and not so long, but i have other loose connector so it could be anything 












If only i didn't need my car everyday i would pull everything and redo the wiring, which would take me weeks lol :banghead:


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

Those are grounds that connect to the main ground box, which is under the dash close to the fire wall, driver side. Get under there and look up, it's by the driver side dash vent duct. 

They are for the drivers side dome light switch. (light on when door opens)


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## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

jgcable said:


> 1990 G60, I went to every auto parts store within 20 miles of me and nobody carries any hoses that are these sizes in any colors. I am looking for red.
> The problem I am having is both the elbow and the large straight section have an oversize flare on one side. I think the problem is the T fitting. Its openings are smaller than the OEM intake and the black plastic intercooler pipe.
> I would like to replace this entire assembly with something more trick. The elbow and the large straight section are VW hoses. I don't think they are original for this car. The hose that goes from the ISV is a standard heater hose but because the opening in the T fitting is larger than the ISV opening the previous owner put an adapter hose inside the heater hose to reduce it down.
> Again, I think the T fitting is the problem.
> Here is a pic. Where can I get an aftermarket assembly like this. It must be very common.


The curved hose is the original hose. Its VW part # 357145838A. It must have been flared on both sides and the previous owner cut one of the flares off so that it would fit in the T for the ISV reroute. 
I think the straight section is the rest of that hose because it has the same part # on it.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

jgcable said:


> The curved hose is the original hose. Its VW part # 357145838A. It must have been flared on both sides and the previous owner cut one of the flares off so that it would fit in the T for the ISV reroute.
> I think the straight section is the rest of that hose because it has the same part # on it.


^^ Yeah, now that I'm looking at it you're probably right :thumbup: That does look like the oe hose coming from the TB...
You should be able to easily find either an oem one (used) or Samco has this piece in its G60 silicon hose set (in diff. colours too)


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

jgcable said:


> The curved hose is the original hose. Its VW part # 357145838A. It must have been flared on both sides and the previous owner cut one of the flares off so that it would fit in the T for the ISV reroute.
> I think the straight section is the rest of that hose because it has the same part # on it.


Any of your local tuner shops should carry a wide variety of silicone hoses, the elbow you have there is OEM and connects right to the stock plastic boost tube, but in you case has been cut for the ISV re-route. Nick is right about Samco offering these hoses in silicone in a wide variety of colors and a whole boost coupler package for the G60.

Take a look thru the G60 bay pic thread and you will see what I mean.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Any of your local tuner shops should carry a wide variety of silicone hoses, the elbow you have there is OEM and connects right to the stock plastic boost tube, but in you case has been cut for the ISV re-route. Nick is right about Samco offering these hoses in silicone in a wide variety of colors and a whole boost coupler package for the G60.
> 
> Take a look thru the G60 bay pic thread and you will see what I mean.


^^ :thumbup: ...and as I said with so many G60 owners swaping for Samco silicon hoses it should be relatively easy find the oem hose (that others won't be needing anymore). I know I would buy an oem rather than a silicon one...  Browse the parts classifieds


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

My G60 is smoking...smoking bad  Its somewhere near (or close) to the inlet manifold. And the leak isn't from the fuel lines 'cause I just addressed this problem. 

I suspect either fuel rail (oe plastic) or something with the injectors (o-rings?). 

And I don't know if this is relevant but the weird thing is that I've been dealing with all this fuel leak issues after the 3,5bar FPR installation (had to change 2 sets of s/s braided fuel lines and after not being able to stop the leaks from the lines I decided to go back to oe rubber EFI hoses). Maybe there's too much pressure or something...


And I also think I hear a "knocking" sound


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^ :thumbup: ...and as I said with so many G60 owners swaping for Samco silicon hoses it should be relatively easy find the oem hose (that others won't be needing anymore). I know I would buy an oem rather than a silicon one...  Browse the parts classifieds


:thumbup:



RedYellowWhite said:


> My G60 is smoking...smoking bad  Its somewhere near (or close) to the inlet manifold. And the leak isn't from the fuel lines 'cause I just addressed this problem.
> 
> I suspect either fuel rail (oe plastic) or something with the injectors (o-rings?).
> 
> ...


Man, sounds like you need to nip that in the bud, quik, especially if you believe it is fuel related. How does your fuel pressure hose look? has it been replaced? Not likely for an injector o-ring to go out like that, but anything can happen


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Man, sounds like you need to nip that in the bud, quik, especially if you believe it is fuel related. How does your fuel pressure hose look? has it been replaced? Not likely for an injector o-ring to go out like that, but anything can happen


The FPR hose is 100% perfect (EFI sh!t with correct type & size clamps and all). I just replaced them today (again :banghead. So its from somewhere else. As I said I suspect fuel rail or injectors. But why all this sh!t after the 3,5bar FPR install, that's what makes me mad. 

Chad do you have a good (big) pic of the fuel lines routing you could pm me? I wanna check something...


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> The FPR hose is 100% perfect (EFI sh!t with correct type & size clamps and all). I just replaced them today (again :banghead. So its from somewhere else. As I said I suspect fuel rail or injectors. But why all this sh!t after the 3,5bar FPR install, that's what makes me mad.
> 
> Chad do you have a good (big) pic of the fuel lines routing you could pm me? I wanna check something...


The hose in question is off the DS side of the rail... not the FPR side. You should be able to see down in there somewhat, right above the intake ports and if need be, take off the two brackets for the intake. Are you sure you got a good seal and didn't pinch the o-ring for the FPR in to the fuel rail?

I will lookthru my pics, although, really don't think I have a close-up of that area.

Also, look what was right at the top of this page when I opened it http://www.siliconhoses.com/


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> The FPR hose is 100% perfect (EFI sh!t with correct type & size clamps and all). I just replaced them today (again :banghead. So its from somewhere else. As I said I suspect fuel rail or injectors. But why all this sh!t after the 3,5bar FPR install, that's what makes me mad.
> 
> Chad do you have a good (big) pic of the fuel lines routing you could pm me? I wanna check something...


Just a thought did you replace the o-rings on the FPR when you installed it? Also I use motor oil on the o-rings when I seat the injectors and FPR. I keeps from damaging them and makes them swell a bit into the rail.


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## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

Noobercorn said:


> Those are grounds that connect to the main ground box, which is under the dash close to the fire wall, driver side. Get under there and look up, it's by the driver side dash vent duct.
> 
> They are for the drivers side dome light switch. (light on when door opens)












Yeah i though they were grounds since all 3 are brown, but the one without plastic (connected in serie) would'nt reach ground point that high or maybe it continue to there  I could just ground it to the body and the other one with 2 wire and plastic on connector is going inside the body (the hole u can see in pic) but i could fish it and pull upward... 

So they should ground onto that bar with a dozen male pin, i've seen it before its just so far into the dash... But then what connect to the contact switch on the door? Cause there's nothing now i thought one of these was the ground.. 

Thanks Noobercorn


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## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^ :thumbup: ...and as I said with so many G60 owners swaping for Samco silicon hoses it should be relatively easy find the oem hose (that others won't be needing anymore). I know I would buy an oem rather than a silicon one...  Browse the parts classifieds


I looked in the classifieds and I posted a WTB. The only reason I was looking for silicone was I wanted red to match the other parts under the hood. I saw the hose on the Samco site but they don't list it for sale separately. I sent them an email to ask. I should be able to find an aftermarket red one. If not, I will just go OEM. The elbow part of the hose is perfect. Its the straight section that attaches to the hard plastic pipe leading to the intercooler that has a problem. It has some splits starting to form around where the hose clamp is.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

jgcable said:


> I looked in the classifieds and I posted a WTB. The only reason I was looking for silicone was I wanted red to match the other parts under the hood. I saw the hose on the Samco site but they don't list it for sale separately. I sent them an email to ask. I should be able to find an aftermarket red one. If not, I will just go OEM. The elbow part of the hose is perfect. Its the straight section that attaches to the hard plastic pipe leading to the intercooler that has a problem. It has some splits starting to form around where the hose clamp is.


http://www.siliconhoses.com/


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## Corrado_ryno (Nov 13, 2010)

well, since this is the "ask the experts" thread..

Im interested in boring out my throttle body on my OBD1 corrado.. Is there a "how to" or someone I can send it to do it for me? Ive called machine shops local to me, and they say dont want to do it lol..


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> The hose in question is off the DS side of the rail... not the FPR side. You should be able to see down in there somewhat, right above the intake ports and if need be, take off the two brackets for the intake. Are you sure you got a good seal and didn't pinch the o-ring for the FPR in to the fuel rail?
> 
> I will lookthru my pics, although, really don't think I have a close-up of that area.


So, that means pass. side for us RHD's :laugh: Are you referring to the (afterrun pressure?) switch hose??? If so, ja I replaced that too...
At this point I'm not sure about the o-rigns on the FPR. I'm gonna start pulling stuff on Saturday to take a closer look. Thanks man :thumbup: :beer:




Sr. Karmann said:


> Also, look what was right at the top of this page when I opened it http://www.siliconhoses.com/


 What? 




TheBurninator said:


> Just a thought did you replace the o-rings on the FPR when you installed it? Also I use motor oil on the o-rings when I seat the injectors and FPR. I keeps from damaging them and makes them swell a bit into the rail.


I've never messed with/removed the injectors from the rail. 
No I did not replace the FPR o-rings, you're right Kyle, I'm gonna take a closer look on Saturday and probably replace them too.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> What?


Just thought it was funny with all the hose discussion :laugh:

and ya, that was the hose I was referring to Mr. RHD


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> http://www.siliconhoses.com/


All of these hoses from Siliconhoses are available thru Forge Motorsport! :thumbup:


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Corrado_ryno said:


> well, since this is the "ask the experts" thread..
> 
> Im interested in boring out my throttle body on my OBD1 corrado.. Is there a "how to" or someone I can send it to do it for me? Ive called machine shops local to me, and they say dont want to do it lol..


Yup, me and $100 you pay shipping both ways. or find a 2.9 TB. They are larger without having to port. (not bore) lol


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## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

Okay since this is the thread, i'll ask my noob question and know what it mean once for all 

When you say porting it mean to "shave" the interior right? Its the Throttle body and the intake manifold, there must be other part that can also be ported... And what are the benefit of doing this, torque? Can you run stock ECU (N-A) with a 2.9?

Gotta learn everyday


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

yes, porting is making the hole bigger. port matching making all the holes the same size for flow. 
Yes you can run the 2.9TB on a 2.8 ecu unmodified.


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## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

What's the cycling / electronic sound I hear when the key is in the "power on" position? Fuel pump?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

TheLateJetta said:


> What's the cycling / electronic sound I hear when the key is in the "power on" position? Fuel pump?


ABS pump building pressure.


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Thx I figured it had to be either or.


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## Deus204 (Mar 28, 2007)

My problem ended u being a combo of a bad ground and a bad battery. So all is running again, other than my radio has stopped working. Thanks for the help!


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## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Yup, me and $100 you pay shipping both ways. or find a 2.9 TB. They are larger without having to port. (not bore) lol


Didn't know you were a porter as well. :laugh: Good to know
actually & nice to finally meet you at the Fest. :thumbup:...


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

PrjktRado1 said:


> Didn't know you were a porter as well. :laugh: Good to know
> actually & nice to finally meet you at the Fest. :thumbup:...


There isnt much I cant do, and what I cant do, I have friends who can. :beer:

Good meeting you to man, see you next year, or sooner. WinterJam Daytona coming up in a few months.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

PrjktRado1 said:


> Didn't know you were a porter as well. :laugh: Good to know
> actually & nice to finally meet you at the Fest. :thumbup:...


Porting a TB isn't exactly rocket science though.


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

OK dumb question time - is there a quick (aka lazy) way to clear any lingering codes on my 91? I have VAGCOM at work but the G60 does not support "Rapid Data Transfer" so that's a no-go. Does the remove battery cable for 15 minutes technique work?

I replaced the O2 sensor and want to make sure it isn't holding a code for it in there.

And finally - is the diag port located somewhere else on an automatic? I felt behind the panel next to the gear selector and didnt feel anything in there...?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Porting a TB isn't exactly rocket science though.


Dremel, and JB weld for the 2.8's to get ported far enough, and the 2.9 is a lot easier and does not have the "RAMP" on both sides. 

Where is my DAMN DVD Kyle?!?!?! lol


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

pej said:


> OK dumb question time - is there a quick (aka lazy) way to clear any lingering codes on my 91? I have VAGCOM at work but the G60 does not support "Rapid Data Transfer" so that's a no-go. Does the remove battery cable for 15 minutes technique work?
> 
> I replaced the O2 sensor and want to make sure it isn't holding a code for it in there.
> 
> And finally - is the diag port located somewhere else on an automatic? I felt behind the panel next to the gear selector and didnt feel anything in there...?


hold your battery cables together for 20 seconds. Capacitive discharge. :thumbup:


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## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Sr. Karmann said:


> YES, WAAAAAAAAAAAAAY more important than the wires, maybe he should contact Adam :laugh:


iv pulled dash, all the wiring to the Bay itself and the carpet and padding.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

pej said:


> OK dumb question time - is there a quick (aka lazy) way to clear any lingering codes on my 91? I have VAGCOM at work but the G60 does not support "Rapid Data Transfer" so that's a no-go. Does the remove battery cable for 15 minutes technique work?
> 
> I replaced the O2 sensor and want to make sure it isn't holding a code for it in there.
> 
> And finally - is the diag port located somewhere else on an automatic? I felt behind the panel next to the gear selector and didnt feel anything in there...?


what Will said, and my diagnostic connection locates at the front of my shifter surround, pop the cover and it should be on the forward side, member, mine was das auto 2 



DUBZAK said:


> hold your battery cables together for 20 seconds. Capacitive discharge. :thumbup:


:thumbup:



jettalvr41 said:


> iv pulled dash, all the wiring to the Bay itself and the carpet and padding.


:thumbup:


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## toraider (Nov 6, 2010)

*Passenger Window Issue?*

Thinking of buying a Corrado, but there is an issue with the Passenger side window. The owner says that the Passenger Window drops into the door periodically, but he is able to roll it up with the window switch after it happens. 

He did not simulate the issue, so I could not see it. What might be the issue? 

I'm trying to figure out what it might cost me to fix. He mentioned that someone told him it might be a window regulator...

Help and thanks in advance.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

toraider said:


> Window drops into the door periodically, He mentioned that someone told him it might be a window regulator...


It is the window regulator. Price out repair shops for the repair, if you arent prepared to work on this one yourself. Different labor rates for different shops. 

Replacement regulators are available, just dont use the PiMax ones. Garbage. 

A1 Electric or European Perfomance Products sells the good ones. :thumbup:


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

What is the best way to remove the door as far as wiring and the air locking set up? Is it easier to disconnect the wires inside the door or under the dash?


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> what Will said, and my diagnostic connection locates at the front of my shifter surround, pop the cover and it should be on the forward side, member, mine was das auto 2


I see so it's on the front side... I'll check again.

So really, just hold the cables together??  That almost sounds as made up as muffler bearings and blinker fluid! Yer fer reals??


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

pej said:


> So really, just hold the cables together??  That almost sounds as made up as muffler bearings and blinker fluid! Yer fer reals??


yep :thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> yep :thumbup:


OK - sorry it just sounds bizzare to me for whatever reason. What exactly does it do?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> OK - sorry it just sounds bizzare to me for whatever reason. What exactly does it do?


Completely clears/re-sets the ECU :thumbup:


----------



## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^ Yeah, now that I'm looking at it you're probably right :thumbup: That does look like the oe hose coming from the TB...
> You should be able to easily find either an oem one (used) or Samco has this piece in its G60 silicon hose set (in diff. colours too)


I looked on the Samco website and they don't list that hose seperately. I would need to buy the $300.00 hose kit to get it. I only want to replace that one hose and possibly the hose that goes to the ISV. I emailed them too but no response yet. I am surprised that this hose isn't a popular aftermarket item. At least I know what I am looking for now. Just need to find it in red.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

jgcable said:


> I looked on the Samco website and they don't list that hose seperately. I would need to buy the $300.00 hose kit to get it. I only want to replace that one hose and possibly the hose that goes to the ISV. I emailed them too but no response yet. I am surprised that this hose isn't a popular aftermarket item. At least I know what I am looking for now. Just need to find it in red.


did you look thru the silicone hose site I posted earlier?


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> did you look thru the silicone hose site I posted earlier?


:thumbup:
Yeah, just measure the hose you have in your possesion and find the appropriate correct size Samco (or other) one. 

I think the only G60 only specific hose from the Samco set is the lower IC hose which has a strange shape...


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Completely clears/re-sets the ECU :thumbup:


Right right I understand that... I was wondering what capacitive discharge actually meant. What is actually happening electrically when you do that?


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> There isnt much I cant do, and what I cant do, I have friends who can. :beer:
> 
> Good meeting you to man, see you next year, or sooner. WinterJam Daytona coming up in a few months.


Yeah I need to get to some of these other shows, not too many Rados this year.

_______________________________________


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

PrjktRado1 said:


> Yeah I need to get to some of these other shows, not too many Rados this year.
> 
> _______________________________________


Southern Worthersee in Helen, GA :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Southern Worthersee in Helen, GA :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


Not sure if the Rado will make it, may have to take the daily.  Love the Ga. mountains tho, 
especially Blue Ridge. Guess I should have started a car show thread  oops.


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## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> Right right I understand that... I was wondering what capacitive discharge actually meant. What is actually happening electrically when you do that?


Im not an expert, but i think it will get rid (short?) any remaining current in the circuit, you close the circuit but with no power source...


----------



## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

*BOV or not???*

I almost don't want to ask this..:facepalm:
Regarding driving my Stage 4 set up G60, in between shifts I get a loud air release sound which sounds to me exactly like a BOV so I assumed I have one. The harder I am on the throttle the louder the sound is. I can here it just about all the time unless I am really granny shifting.
I was shifting at 5K from a standing start and it was really loud. Sounds absolutely amazing. Very similar sounding to a turbo cars BOV. 
To put in letters what it sounds like... FFSSSEEEEEWWUUUUU. 
Anyway, I don't see a BOV mentioned in my Bentley. They do mention a CO Potentiometer that I thought was my BOV but now I am not sure. The PO didn't mention a BOV in the list of aftermarket work done to my car. 
So... where should I be looking because I obviously have one.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jgcable said:


> I almost don't want to ask this..:facepalm:
> Regarding driving my Stage 4 set up G60, in between shifts I get a loud air release sound which sounds to me exactly like a BOV so I assumed I have one. The harder I am on the throttle the louder the sound is. I can here it just about all the time unless I am really granny shifting.
> I was shifting at 5K from a standing start and it was really loud. Sounds absolutely amazing. Very similar sounding to a turbo cars BOV.
> To put in letters what it sounds like... FFSSSEEEEEWWUUUUU.
> ...


You might not have one. The factory boost return system might just not be hooked up. On the bottom of the throttle body there is an opening about 1.25" in diameter with a butterfly valve. There is a plastic hose that hooks up to it and goes back to the charger inlet on the opposite side as the intake. If that hose is broken or removed then it will make the annoying blow off valve sound.

If that all checks out I would look for the BOV somewhere along the intercooler piping. Probably going to be on the pipe that runs from the throttle body to the intercooler.

On a G60 a BOV is pointless. The factory boost return system works very well.

Post a pic of your bay. maybe it will give a clue to what is going on.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Right right I understand that... I was wondering what capacitive discharge actually meant. What is actually happening electrically when you do that?


exactly what it says dood, discharging the capacitors :sly:......:laugh:



[email protected] said:


> Southern Worthersee in Helen, GA :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


.:thumbup::thumbup:



jgcable said:


> I almost don't want to ask this..:facepalm:
> Regarding driving my Stage 4 set up G60, in between shifts I get a loud air release sound which sounds to me exactly like a BOV so I assumed I have one. The harder I am on the throttle the louder the sound is. I can here it just about all the time unless I am really granny shifting.
> I was shifting at 5K from a standing start and it was really loud. Sounds absolutely amazing. Very similar sounding to a turbo cars BOV.
> To put in letters what it sounds like... FFSSSEEEEEWWUUUUU.
> ...


mine did it too, no BOV on mine, don't forget, you do have a diverter valve


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## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> You might not have one. The factory boost return system might just not be hooked up. On the bottom of the throttle body there is an opening about 1.25" in diameter with a butterfly valve. There is a plastic hose that hooks up to it and goes back to the charger inlet on the opposite side as the intake. If that hose is broken or removed then it will make the annoying blow off valve sound.
> 
> If that all checks out I would look for the BOV somewhere along the intercooler piping. Probably going to be on the pipe that runs from the throttle body to the intercooler.
> 
> ...


Here are 2 pics.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jgcable said:


> Here are 2 pics.


Nope, no BOV that I can see. Double check that your boost return hose isn't leaking and that the clamp is on all the way on the throttle body.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

jgcable said:


> Here are 2 pics.


^^I don't see a BOV and the oe boost return pipe is there.You do have an ISV reroute though...


edit: damn, Kyle beat me to it


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## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> exactly what it says dood, discharging the capacitors :sly:......:laugh:


Yeah yeah sorry for being a 'tard.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Yeah yeah sorry for being a 'tard.


:laugh:.......:beer:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> edit: damn, Kyle beat me to it


Next time type faster :laugh:

Wait on second thought... English isn't your primary language...


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Wait on second thought... English isn't your primary language...


IB4TL :laugh:


----------



## jaxatax (Oct 13, 2010)

*Sad car troubles ):*

To start off i have very little knowledge and will have to get a mechanic to fix most mechanical stuff right now (but i would love to change that eventually...)


Well my corrado has been acting up lately with a few different symptoms, they are as follows.. 

Random loss of power(as if someone is slightly applying a brake) and the rpms drop and bounce around from anywhere between a 400-600 rpm range in any gear usually in rpms lower than 4000. (i dont THINK its the O2 sensor as the very recent previous owner said he replaced them about 3 months ago, maybe something with the new one was miscabrated or something?)

the next problem is ill be going down the road and randomly a white smoke like gas/dust (i cant really tell) floats out of the vents and coats the Windshield, im amusing this is the heater core, but i was looking for some more insight.

and the third is when i go to put on my low beams now, the lights turn off, so basically my headlights are stuck in high beam

(by accident the other day when i was a little chilly (high 50's) and i had just started it and my jackass friend decided to poke the driver (me) and freak him out..[thank got it was in nutural] and my foot hit the gas it revved uber high like 6000's when it was just started up and it made a really scary sound like almost a raddling sound coming from my engine compartment D: could this have caused any serious problems?)


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jaxatax said:


> To start off i have very little knowledge and will have to get a mechanic to fix most mechanical stuff right now (but i would love to change that eventually...)
> 
> 
> Well my corrado has been acting up lately with a few different symptoms, they are as follows..
> ...


You are leaving out important information. What engine? What year?

Could be a number of issues causing problems with the engine doing that. It could be a bad coolant temp sensor, could be a coil that is bad. Is it misfiring when the RPM's drop?

The white smoke/dust you are seeing inside, does it smell sweet? Almost like maple syrup?

For the headlight issue have you checked the fuses? Or even the bulbs?


----------



## jaxatax (Oct 13, 2010)

Right, sorry that was my first post. i completley spaced. 

Its a 1993 VR6 SLC

No, it doesnt really feel like its misfiring, just like a loss of power imo best described as if someone kind of like someone put on the brake along with the revs dropping and spazzing, also you have to push the gas alot farther in to keep speed and then it will pick back up and the power will surge back in an its just like a huge jolt when your driving.

yes it smells smoke/dust sweet.

also with the headlight issue, the fuses are fine, i did check them. and i mean wouldnt it be like a 1:100,000,000 chance for both of the bulbs to go out at the EXACT same time? (but i will check them just in case once it gets light tommorow) 

also do you think any serious damage could of been caused by the impromptu high rev while cold?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jaxatax said:


> Right, sorry that was my first post. i completley spaced.
> 
> Its a 1993 VR6 SLC
> 
> ...


Anyone near you have a VAG-COM and a 2x2 adapter? You can just pull codes. That is the easiest way to diagnose this. Otherwise I will say Coolant temp sensor, o2 sensor, and possible cracked coilpacks/bad plug wires. Last two are easy to check. Get a spray bottle and start the car. Spray it around the plug wires/ coil pack. If it arcs then that would be the issue.

Have you pulled the plugs to see how they look?

You have a bad heatercore.

The light issue sounds like either a bad headlight switch or a bad turn signal stalk. But it could easily be a bad wire somewhere. Short to ground etc.


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## jaxatax (Oct 13, 2010)

Nope, i havnt checked the plugs out, oh oh also i forgot to mention this car has a weird habit of burning oil i mean BURNING IT, in like a hundred miles it burnt off, not leaked 4.5qt of oil and i didnt realize it till i got home QQ but now after i filled it back up it hasnt burnt off too much more and its been a few hundred miles.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jaxatax said:


> Nope, i havnt checked the plugs out, oh oh also i forgot to mention this car has a weird habit of burning oil i mean BURNING IT, in like a hundred miles it burnt off, not leaked 4.5qt of oil and i didnt realize it till i got home QQ but now after i filled it back up it hasnt burnt off too much more and its been a few hundred miles.


If that is the case then I am sure you fouled out the plugs and o2 sensor.

Does the car smoke at startup or all the time?


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## jaxatax (Oct 13, 2010)

and once i test what you sugested ill post my findings[:


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## jaxatax (Oct 13, 2010)

It will puff like a chain smoker sometimes... but only randomly just like the trottle issue... (oooo connections haha) think oil could be getting into the combustion chamber?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jaxatax said:


> It will puff like a chain smoker sometimes... but only randomly just like the trottle issue... (oooo connections haha) think oil could be getting into the combustion chamber?


If it smokes blue smoke out the exhaust when it is cold then you need valve stem seals. If it smokes all the time then you have a more serious issue of bad piston rings.


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## jaxatax (Oct 13, 2010)

Its white smoke btw


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## jaxatax (Oct 13, 2010)

i couldnt tell you about when its driving how it is cause well, i cant see]: but i know when shes idling its deff not all the time


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## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> Nope, no BOV that I can see. Double check that your boost return hose isn't leaking and that the clamp is on all the way on the throttle body.


The clamp is all the way on the throttle body. Regarding the return hose, there is a rubber cap that is hose clamped to it. I assume that is where the hose from the ISV used to plug in but because I have a reroute it is plugged into the upper intake hose instead. Everything looks ok and nothing is lose or cracked. Where is that noise coming from?


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Next time type faster :laugh:
> 
> Wait on second thought... English isn't your primary language...





Sr. Karmann said:


> IB4TL :laugh:


^^ :what: I must have missed an "interesting" thread last night or I just don't get it ^^ due to my poor English ...

I haz a dictionary btw


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

jgcable said:


> The clamp is all the way on the throttle body. Regarding the return hose, there is a rubber cap that is hose clamped to it. I assume that is where the hose from the ISV used to plug in but because I have a reroute it is plugged into the upper intake hose instead. Everything looks ok and nothing is lose or cracked. Where is that noise coming from?


Could it be a vacuum/boost leak?


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

What is the easiest way to remove G60 doors?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jaxatax said:


> Its white smoke btw





jaxatax said:


> i couldnt tell you about when its driving how it is cause well, i cant see]: but i know when shes idling its deff not all the time


You probably have a bad headgasket if it is white smoke. Do a compression and leak down test.



jgcable said:


> The clamp is all the way on the throttle body. Regarding the return hose, there is a rubber cap that is hose clamped to it. I assume that is where the hose from the ISV used to plug in but because I have a reroute it is plugged into the upper intake hose instead. Everything looks ok and nothing is lose or cracked. Where is that noise coming from?





RedYellowWhite said:


> Could it be a vacuum/boost leak?


Very possible. It would have to be a big one though. I would check for obvious vacuum leaks using some carb cleaner. Is the sound you are hearing loud like it is going to the atmosphere or is it muffled like it is being put back in the intake?



turtledub said:


> What is the easiest way to remove G60 doors?


About the same way as a VR6 door. :laugh: Ok on a serious note pull the doorcard first and feed all the wiring out of the door. Then remove the bolt on the strap and the two bolts on the doorframe. Those doorframe bolts are a ridiculously tight BTW




RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^ :what: I must have missed an "interesting" thread last night or I just don't get it ^^ due to my poor English ...
> 
> I haz a dictionary btw


I was just poking fun at you being slow at responding but I remembered your primary lang isn't english. I am surprised though. You seem to understand and type english better than half of the people on this site. :laugh::laugh:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> ...I was just poking fun at you being slow at responding but I remembered your primary lang isn't english. I am surprised though. You seem to understand and type english better than half of the people on this site. :laugh::laugh:


Got it :thumbup: :beer: 

Where I live, English is like our second language, its even one of the official languages in our Constitution (everything is written in Greek and English). 
English is also very useful when hitting on tourist girls at the beaches at summer holidays, so they get practiced a lot


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Got it :thumbup: :beer:
> 
> Where I live, English is like our second language, its even one of the official languages in our Constitution (everything is written in Greek and English).
> English is also very useful when hitting on *tourist girls* at the beaches at summer holidays, so they get practiced a lot


You had me at tourist girls. Buying a plane ticket now :laugh::laugh:


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Got it :thumbup: :beer:
> 
> Where I live, English is like our second language, its even one of the official languages in our Constitution (everything is written in Greek and English).
> English is also very useful when hitting on tourist girls at the beaches at summer holidays, so they get practiced a lot


The language is practiced or the girls are? :laugh:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> You had me at tourist girls. Buying a plane ticket now :laugh::laugh:


Wait for the summer first :laugh:




[email protected] said:


> The language is practiced or the girls are? :laugh:


^^ Both? :sly:


----------



## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

> Very possible. It would have to be a big one though. I would check for obvious vacuum leaks using some carb cleaner. Is the sound you are hearing loud like it is going to the atmosphere or is it muffled like it is being put back in the intake?


Sounds like its going into the atmosphere. I have a few friends who have turbo cars and when they jump on their throttle and let off they get a loud air noise coming from the blow off valve. 
My car does the exact same thing. The more revs, the louder the noise. 
Basically it goes like this...
1st gear.. jump on the gas... accelerate until the tach reads 5K and shift into second. 
The second I let off the gas I get the loud BOV noise. 
Repeat through all gears. 
If I am granny shifting its barely noticeable. 
I am thinking that there could be an issue though because my car does a few other unusual things. 
1st. It idles at 1100rpms consistantly. It doesn't high rev when cold and it doesn't settle down when warm. It starts and idles at 1100 rpms all the time. 
2nd. When I blip the gas the motor instantly responds with no hesitation at all which is good but the unusual thing to me is when the rpms come down they drop to about 800 and instantly jump back up to 1100rpms. It does this consistantly whether cold or warm. The PO told me its something to do with the stage 4 work done to the car. 
Maybe this is something vacuum related? I was thinking possibly a dirty ISV. 
Car runs fantastic with no issues but since I have the winter to work on it I want to sort everything out.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Wait for the summer first :laugh:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


:laugh::laugh:

Does your wife know about that?


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^ Both? :sly:


haha


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jgcable said:


> Sounds like its going into the atmosphere. I have a few friends who have turbo cars and when they jump on their throttle and let off they get a loud air noise coming from the blow off valve.
> My car does the exact same thing. The more revs, the louder the noise.
> Basically it goes like this...
> 1st gear.. jump on the gas... accelerate until the tach reads 5K and shift into second.
> ...


Never had anything like that when my car was stage 4 with a tiny pully.

Sounds like a vacuum leak especially with the high idle. Have you tried adjusting the idle screw? Check for vacuum leaks, replace any vacuum lines that are old and rotting. If you need lengths I can find the etka stuff. A bad or dirty ISV usually causes rough idle issues and bucking.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

jgcable said:


> Sounds like its going into the atmosphere. I have a few friends who have turbo cars and when they jump on their throttle and let off they get a loud air noise coming from the blow off valve.
> My car does the exact same thing. The more revs, the louder the noise.
> Basically it goes like this...
> 1st gear.. jump on the gas... accelerate until the tach reads 5K and shift into second.
> ...



Do you have a boost/vac gauge hooked up inside your car? That could tell you a lot...




TheBurninator said:


> :laugh::laugh:
> 
> Does your wife know about that?


Ya man, don't worry, I told her you are coming over on summer  (I know that's not what you were reffering to with the "does your wife know about that", just being a smartass :laugh




pej said:


> haha


:beer:




TheBurninator said:


> Never had anything like that when my car was stage 4 with a tiny pully.
> 
> Sounds like a vacuum leak especially with the high idle. Have you tried adjusting the idle screw? Check for vacuum leaks, replace any vacuum lines that are old and rotting. If you need lengths I can find the etka stuff. A bad or dirty ISV usually causes rough idle issues and bucking.


Yeah, what he said. Kyle's got your back. 
Only think I'd add to that is also check your throttle cable for the high idle issue, I had the same problem and once adjusted everything went back to normal (ie. 850-900 rpm I reckon). 
I also had a huge vac leak through the hose the connects the ISV to the manifold:


----------



## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

> TheBurninator said:
> 
> 
> > Never had anything like that when my car was stage 4 with a tiny pully.
> ...



I didn't try adjusting the idle screw only because the idle drops to 800 and instantly pops up to 1100 every time so i figured it must have something to do with the stage 4 SNS chip or the other work done to the work. The way the idle reacts when I blip the throttle seemed like an engineered thing to me because it always does the same thing. It idles at 1100 consistant and as soon as I blip the throttle and let off it drops to 800 and then back up to 1100 immediately. Now that you are telling me it isn't normal I really need to look at the hoses good. I do know that they are all original hoses. None of them looked cracked but I didn't look really good. 
I suppose its starting to make sense that I have a vacuum leak somewhere because of the idle drop, the sound of a BOV without actually having one and a boost gauge that doesn't read consistant. Damn the car runs good though. I was looking at replacing all the vacuum and boost hoses on the car and am trying to figure out whether to go with OEM or aftermarket. 
I wanted to do red silicone for everything but its sooo expensive. There are kits online but I don't want the coolant hoses.. just the vacuum and intake hoses.


----------



## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

> RedYellowWhite said:
> 
> 
> > Do you have a boost/vac gauge hooked up inside your car?
> ...


yea, I have a Stewart Warner boost gauge. It doesn't read consistant. The needle is all over the place. I also have an A/F meter and it consistantly flashes back and forth from red to green. 
I bet I have a huge vacuum leak. 
What do you guys recommend in regards to replacing all the vacuum and intake hoses? OEM or aftermarket. I would like to replace all of them except for the coolant/heater hoses.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Ya man, don't worry, I told her you are coming over on summer  (I know that's not what you were reffering to with the "does your wife know about that", just being a smartass :laugh
> :beer:


HAHA does she know that you are going to be my tour guide to the tourist girls? :laugh::laugh: Also you may want to tell her to save up some bail money to get us out of jail at somepoint 




jgcable said:


> I didn't try adjusting the idle screw only because the idle drops to 800 and instantly pops up to 1100 every time so i figured it must have something to do with the stage 4 SNS chip or the other work done to the work. The way the idle reacts when I blip the throttle seemed like an engineered thing to me because it always does the same thing. It idles at 1100 consistant and as soon as I blip the throttle and let off it drops to 800 and then back up to 1100 immediately. Now that you are telling me it isn't normal I really need to look at the hoses good. I do know that they are all original hoses. None of them looked cracked but I didn't look really good.
> I suppose its starting to make sense that I have a vacuum leak somewhere because of the idle drop, the sound of a BOV without actually having one and a boost gauge that doesn't read consistant. Damn the car runs good though. I was looking at replacing all the vacuum and boost hoses on the car and am trying to figure out whether to go with OEM or aftermarket.
> I wanted to do red silicone for everything but its sooo expensive. There are kits online but I don't want the coolant hoses.. just the vacuum and intake hoses.


IMO factory rubber hoses last longer than silicon. The factory vacuum lines are re-enforced with cloth and last a long time too. The only thing I would use silicon for is a nice rack or couplers for the intake system.

Do you have inspections/emissions testing where you live? If you don't then might want to consider deleting the carbon canister system. It cleans up the bay and gets rid of ALOT of vacuum lines.

If I had a G60 still I would have built a custom set of intake pipes and a boost return to fit my needs. I.E. No ISV ports on the boost return or inlet pipe. The ISV would have a check valve in it and a small K&N filter on it and be tucked out of the way. Eliminate those plastic factory pipes and not spend a small fortune for the BBM ones.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jgcable said:


> yea, I have a Stewart Warner boost gauge. It doesn't read consistant. The needle is all over the place. I also have an A/F meter and it consistantly flashes back and forth from red to green.
> I bet I have a huge vacuum leak.
> What do you guys recommend in regards to replacing all the vacuum and intake hoses? OEM or aftermarket. I would like to replace all of them except for the coolant/heater hoses.


I would use all factory hoses. See my above response. Also if you are not using a wideband controller the AFR's will bounce all over the place on the gauge anyways. Nature of a narrowband sensor.


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

Thanks for the door answer. I was afraid of that. I wish they had a single connector for all the door accesories that I could unclip.

Also I found it odd that there was a speaker behind the plastic on the door map pocket. I thought there was not a speaker there and that the car only had the ones in the dash and in the rear. They do not work so they will get replaced.

Thanks again experts!


----------



## like20girls (Jun 24, 2010)

So I got my recaro SE seat with custom brackets for my g60 radooo and I'm trying to see if I could disect my stock seat and put the ABS wiring on my recaro seat so the seat belt light isn't on all thee time when I install the new seat. I know how to take out the stock seat I did it yesterday but I would love some help/advice as too how to complete the tranformation. Any advice?


----------



## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

> IMO factory rubber hoses last longer than silicon. The factory vacuum lines are re-enforced with cloth and last a long time too. The only thing I would use silicon for is a nice rack or couplers for the intake system.
> 
> Do you have inspections/emissions testing where you live? If you don't then might want to consider deleting the carbon canister system. It cleans up the bay and gets rid of ALOT of vacuum lines.
> 
> If I had a G60 still I would have built a custom set of intake pipes and a boost return to fit my needs. I.E. No ISV ports on the boost return or inlet pipe. The ISV would have a check valve in it and a small K&N filter on it and be tucked out of the way. Eliminate those plastic factory pipes and not spend a small fortune for the BBM ones.


[/QUOTE] 

Yea, we have emissions testing in Connecticut. I am going to go with all factory vacuum lines. I need to come up with all the part #'s an proper descriptions in order to order all these parts. The local auto parts stores around me are fairly clueless.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

turtledub said:


> Thanks for the door answer. I was afraid of that. I wish they had a single connector for all the door accesories that I could unclip.
> 
> Also I found it odd that there was a speaker behind the plastic on the door map pocket. I thought there was not a speaker there and that the car only had the ones in the dash and in the rear. They do not work so they will get replaced.
> 
> Thanks again experts!


It really isn't that bad to do. It comes apart pretty easily. Door card should only take you 30 minutes at most. The worst part about pulling the wiring is the connectors on the door handle and door latch.

Nope not odd. All Corrados and most mk2's have speakers there. in early cars there was a 4" speaker in the dash with the 5.25 in the door and later cars got a tweater mounted on a 4" plate with the 5.25 in the door.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

like20girls said:


> So I got my recaro SE seat with custom brackets for my g60 radooo and I'm trying to see if I could disect my stock seat and put the ABS wiring on my recaro seat so the seat belt light isn't on all thee time when I install the new seat. I know how to take out the stock seat I did it yesterday but I would love some help/advice as too how to complete the tranformation. Any advice?


There is no ABS wiring in the stock seats. It is only the sensor for the seatbelt. Do you still have the stock motorized seatbelts?



jgcable said:


> Yea, we have emissions testing in Connecticut. I am going to go with all factory vacuum lines. I need to come up with all the part #'s an proper descriptions in order to order all these parts. The local auto parts stores around me are fairly clueless.


Then just replace the vac lines to the carbon canister. I am firing up ETKA here in a few and I will get you a PDF of the part numbers needed. It lists exact lengths you will just order a certain length from the dealer and have to shorten for use with the exception of the random molded bits that are larger. :thumbup:

Did you need just the vacuum system or the coolant lines too?


----------



## like20girls (Jun 24, 2010)

Yes I still have the motorized. Seatbelts. Would I have to detach tht part and bolt it onto my recaro bracket?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

like20girls said:


> Yes I still have the motorized. Seatbelts. Would I have to detach tht part and bolt it onto my recaro bracket?


Yep :thumbup:


----------



## like20girls (Jun 24, 2010)

Ha ha haa.. I think I was just thinking too much. Its not tht hard to doo. Thanks !


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> You had me at tourist girls. Buying a plane ticket now :laugh::laugh:


4k :facepalm:........:laugh:


----------



## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

> Then just replace the vac lines to the carbon canister. I am firing up ETKA here in a few and I will get you a PDF of the part numbers needed. It lists exact lengths you will just order a certain length from the dealer and have to shorten for use with the exception of the random molded bits that are larger. :thumbup:
> 
> Did you need just the vacuum system or the coolant lines too?


[/QUOTE] 


Just the vacuum system would be great. Thanks.. JG


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Just the vacuum system would be great. Thanks.. JG[/QUOTE]


----------



## Lagoyda50 (Apr 29, 2008)

*centrel locking system*

well i started to drive my corrado and there is a buzzing noise coming form the passenger side in the back from the locking system. it keeps draining my battery so i have to always swap out the battery everywhere i go. thanks


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Lagoyda50 said:


> well i started to drive my corrado and there is a buzzing noise coming form the passenger side in the back from the locking system. it keeps draining my battery so i have to always swap out the battery everywhere i go. thanks


central locking pump, either a hose came disconnected somewhere, typical, or a stuck relay 

*HAPPY TURKEY DAY GUYS!!!* :beer::beer:umpkin::beer::beer:


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## elite.mafia (Mar 17, 2010)

Are corrados reliable? Was looking at this -> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5097961-FS-Corrado-BBM-Lysholm....Mass-1500-takes-it!!!!

said it needs a new steering rack. I'm guessing around 700 including parts and labour?

I do any work I can on my car besides suspension work. Is it a bad idea to try and daily one of these things?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

mike02467 said:


> Are corrados reliable? Was looking at this -> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5097961-FS-Corrado-BBM-Lysholm....Mass-1500-takes-it!!!!
> 
> said it needs a new steering rack. I'm guessing around 700 including parts and labour?
> 
> I do any work I can on my car besides suspension work. Is it a bad idea to try and daily one of these things?


IMHO, you should not get this if you are concerned about spending $$ on it... If it is a second vehicle for you then, it has some tastefull mods and can be parted for more than $1500 :beer:


----------



## elite.mafia (Mar 17, 2010)

I am not entirely sure what can go wrong on these cars, it has a rebuilt engine, low mile tranny, good s/c, good tires, probably a pretty good clutch if the tranny was just put on recently, what else can break on these things? Not all too worried about dropping another $1000 into it right away, but after that what am I looking at?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

mike02467 said:


> I am not entirely sure what can go wrong on these cars, it has a rebuilt engine, low mile tranny, good s/c, good tires, probably a pretty good clutch if the tranny was just put on recently, what else can break on these things? Not all too worried about dropping another $1000 into it right away, but after that what am I looking at?


dunno man, had the same idea about 2 years ago and am now over $15k deep :vampire:


----------



## elite.mafia (Mar 17, 2010)

I looked at your car in your links and I mean I don't really plan on making it that good, just want something fun and semi-reliable. I had a mk3 golf and it wasn't bad just had a lot of wear items taking a **** on me. :banghead:

I also have a bike (ninja 250 right now) so it's not a huge deal if I can't take the car for one day or something.


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

mike02467 said:


> what else can break on these things?


Everything. You will be surprised. 

Edit- but to be honest, jump on that one in that link. It looks like an extremely good deal. :thumbup:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

mike02467 said:


> I am not entirely sure what can go wrong on these cars, it has a rebuilt engine, low mile tranny, good s/c, good tires, probably a pretty good clutch if the tranny was just put on recently, what else can break on these things? Not all too worried about dropping another $1000 into it right away, but after that what am I looking at?


Lots of things can go bad on a Corrado...simple/small stuff mostly, but stuff that'll make you crazy. Don't forget that afterall we're talking about a 20 year old car. 
IMO if you are willing to throw some cash to it instanly as soon as you get it (for maintenance stuff and health checks), I say go for it  




Sr. Karmann said:


> dunno man, had the same idea about 2 years ago and am now over $15k deep :vampire:


^^ Chad, seriously man? How did you go that deep? 




chrisd1891 said:


> Everything. You will be surprised.
> 
> Edit- but to be honest, jump on that one in that link. It looks like an extremely good deal. :thumbup:


:laugh: :thumbup:


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^ Chad, seriously man? How did you go that deep?


... waits for the inevitable homosexual comment by someone. :laugh:


----------



## elite.mafia (Mar 17, 2010)

Is there anything in particular I need to look for? I know most of the main stuff that goes wrong with these cars after owning a mk3 golf, but IDK much about the g60 engine or superchargers in general.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

mike02467 said:


> Is there anything in particular I need to look for? I know most of the main stuff that goes wrong with these cars after owning a mk3 golf, but IDK much about the g60 engine or superchargers in general.


in all seriously man, too many factors to debate on right now, depending on service records and inspection of the car it's your call... it all matters if you feel that is the car you have to have...


----------



## elite.mafia (Mar 17, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> in all seriously man, too many factors to debate on right now, depending on service records and inspection of the car it's your call... it all matters if you feel that is the car you have to have...


True, maybe I can get my buddy who's a mechanic to come with me


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> ... waits for the inevitable homosexual comment by someone. :laugh:


He doesn't like it any other way. :laugh:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

chrisd1891 said:


> He doesn't like it any other way. :laugh:


:facepalm: homos

:laugh:


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

What # are license palte bulbs?


----------



## like20girls (Jun 24, 2010)

Another one... my shifter stick? Idk what to call it.. it feeel loose when I drive. Whenever I drive my cousins 240 his shifter is tight and stiff. Is there something wrong with mine?


----------



## Klamath (Jun 18, 2010)

Probably the linkage on the gearbox is worn out. (black plastic arm on top of the box.  )


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

like20girls said:


> Another one... my shifter stick? Idk what to call it.. it feeel loose when I drive. Whenever I drive my cousins 240 his shifter is tight and stiff. Is there something wrong with mine?


Go back a few pages (think somewhere along p.99-101). Your answer lies there  Probably shifter bushings...


----------



## XwesleysnipesX (Jul 7, 2010)

I have a 93 vr. And my problem is it's putting out Luke warm heat at best. Ive looked at my blend door. I can hear it clunking open and closed. Seems to be working. My heater core hoses are both hot. Any help! Thanks in advance!


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## like20girls (Jun 24, 2010)

Klamath said:


> Probably the linkage on the gearbox is worn out. (black plastic arm on top of the box.  )





RedYellowWhite said:


> Go back a few pages (think somewhere along p.99-101). Your answer lies there  Probably shifter bushings...


 My cousin said something about busshingss..hmmm andthe linkage might be worn out:/ the guy I bought my corrado from seemed like he didn't take good care of her  but how much would bushings beee? Or to replace the linkage or whatever needs to be fixxed?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

like20girls said:


> My cousin said something about busshingss..hmmm andthe linkage might be worn out:/ the guy I bought my corrado from seemed like he didn't take good care of her  but how much would bushings beee? Or to replace the linkage or whatever needs to be fixxed?


Bushings are cheap IIRC, something like $20...


----------



## like20girls (Jun 24, 2010)

A


RedYellowWhite said:


> Bushings are cheap IIRC, something like $20...


Are they easy to replacee?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

like20girls said:


> A
> 
> Are they easy to replacee?


my new OEM shifter bushings were like $7 for both, PITA to put in, but can be done thru the top of the tower :thumbup:


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## like20girls (Jun 24, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> my new OEM shifter bushings were like $7 for both, PITA to put in, but can be done thru the top of the tower :thumbup:


 where did you buy them?? And is their a diy? Or step by step.. I'm kinda new att this :/ sorry


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

like20girls said:


> where did you buy them?? And is their a diy? Or step by step.. I'm kinda new att this :/ sorry


I bought them at my local VW parts shop, dealer should be able to get them for you or 1stvwparts.com

I am unaware of any writeup, maybe someone can post the ETKA diagram, or if you do go to the dealer, just have them print the sheet :thumbup:

There may be some random internet writeup...


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

like20girls said:


> where did you buy them?? And is their a diy? Or step by step.. I'm kinda new att this :/ sorry





Sr. Karmann said:


> I bought them at my local VW parts shop, dealer should be able to get them for you or 1stvwparts.com
> 
> I am unaware of any writeup, maybe someone can post the ETKA diagram, or if you do go to the dealer, just have them print the sheet :thumbup:
> 
> There may be some random internet writeup...


Check this recent thread: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5095828-Short-Shifter-Debate

Search IS a great thing


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Check this recent thread: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5095828-Short-Shifter-Debate
> 
> Search IS a great thing


ya it is


----------



## like20girls (Jun 24, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Check this recent thread: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5095828-Short-Shifter-Debate
> 
> Search IS a great thing





Sr. Karmann said:


> ya it is


Yes! Thank youuuu both


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

like20girls said:


> Yes! Thank youuuu both


:beer:


----------



## like20girls (Jun 24, 2010)

One more  sorry if I'm getting annoying but I wanted to switch my clutch out cause its hellaa soft and when I shift I have to push the clutch in. Aaaaaaallll the way innn. Any suggestions? As to what kind I should get?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

like20girls said:


> One more  sorry if I'm getting annoying but I wanted to switch my clutch out cause its hellaa soft and when I shift I have to push the clutch in. Aaaaaaallll the way innn. Any suggestions? As to what kind I should get?


That would come down to what kind of power you are making. A stock vr6 clutch holds fine to about 300ft-lbs of torque. I would suggest bleeding the master and slave first to see if that helps a bit with the issue. Make sure the res is full to the top when you do this. If it doesn't help your clutch is probably on its way out.


----------



## like20girls (Jun 24, 2010)

I have a g60


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

like20girls said:


> I have a g60


VR6 clutch & pressure plate works, common upgrade for the G60 depending on power goals :thumbup:


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

elijah- said:


> What # are license palte bulbs?


!


----------



## burnvictim (Jun 13, 2007)

*Car has been sitting. now runs like crap.*

Charger blew earlier this year and while deciding if I wanted to fix it or just get rid of it I bought a bike to ride since I always wanted one.
So I finally bought a used charger and got the car running again. It has been sitting for at least 6 months, maybe 8 or 9.
Problem is its running very poorly now. Revs slowly and hesitates until about 3k rpms then it picks up.
So trying to figure out why its doing this.
The fuel filter is not old.
Maybe the gas is bad? Had about half a tank. I filled it up with premium and added an octane booster but it didnt help.
I havent found any vacuum leaks.
Thinking of draining the tank anyways and adding all new gas.
Anything else I should be looking at?
Im going to hook up my boost gauge to make sure it is making boost.


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

couple questions for the experts...

1) I'm getting my alternator rewound so it puts out higher amperage. Now I know the stock Alt is 90 (G60), and I know the stock Vr is 120. I own a G60. The electrical shop I getting to rewind my alt said they can wind it to 120 AMP, , 140 AMP, 160 AMP, or 180 AMP. My question is this is there a limit to the amperage I can have my alt put out without damaging the electrical system? I know its already flakey as it is. lol

2) Question about Tire clearance, right now my car has 205 60 15s on steel rims. I was looking at getting new tires (in a month or so), I was eyeing a set of Pirellis that are 215 65 15s, will they fit... or am I going to run into clearance issues if I dont roll the fenders. Or what about some 225 50 15s?

3) I was looking at the Bilstein TC Struts, but noticed that at the MJM site they comment that you shouldnt use them with lowering springs. My car came with Neuspeed Sport springs already on it. Do I need to go find a set of OEM springs... or is this 'warning' not anything I need to worry about.

4) any recommendations on spark plugs, other than what the dealership or tuning shop sells by default?


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

I need a suggestion from this list for brake pads. I am looking for good performance with as little dust as possible. I have cross drilled rotors.
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Brake/153/2


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

TheLateJetta said:


> I need a suggestion from this list for brake pads. I am looking for good performance with as little dust as possible. I have cross drilled rotors.
> http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Brake/153/2


Hawk hps pads


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

'90 G60
can someone explain what is that hard line coming from the servo to the inlet manifold? Will removing it from the inlet manifold side let air get into the system?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> '90 G60
> can someone explain what is that hard line coming from the servo to the inlet manifold? Will removing it from the inlet manifold side let air get into the system?


Are you talking about the brake booster?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Are you talking about the brake booster?


Kyle, this hard plastic line (sorry but for a lot of parts I dont know the correct words in English...)


----------



## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

> Just the vacuum system would be great. Thanks.. JG


 [/QUOTE]

Thanks for the pics. My car doesn't have the charcoal canister or any of the lines. The previous owner must have deleted them all. 
I checked every hose on the car and they are all in fine shape with no cracks or splits. 
Still, the car idles at 1100 rpms. When I blip the throttle and release it the idle drops down to 800 and immediately jumps back to 1100 rpms. 
Here is the question...
Does the ECU control the idle speed at all? 
Could it be as simple as turning the idle screw down to 800rpms?? 
Also... if I have no leaks in any of my hoses why do I get a BOV type sound from the charger? 
Somebody mentioned a diverter valve. What is it and would that make a sound similar to a BOV.


----------



## ein (Feb 3, 2007)

jgcable said:


> Also... if I have no leaks in any of my hoses why do I get a BOV type sound from the charger?
> Somebody mentioned a diverter valve. What is it and would that make a sound similar to a BOV.


There is a third plate pointing down on the throttle body that acts like a BOV to release the pressure in the plumbing coming from the charger when you're off throttle (It does the same thing as a BOV). The tube routes from the drivers side of the charger's intake back to the throttle body.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Kyle, this hard plastic line (sorry but for a lot of parts I dont know the correct words in English...)


I think they used the word "servo" for the brake booster in ETKA IIRC, and the vacuum line to it should be the only hard plastic hose in there. Connects to intake manifold, the upper one(normally) :thumbup:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Un stickied? WTF??


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Un stickied? WTF??


its been unstickied for about a week now. :screwy:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> its been unstickied for about a week now. :screwy:


shows how much I pay attention :laugh:


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> shows how much I pay attention :laugh:


yes like how you hadnt noticed that my last bunch of questions has gone un-answered.  
kidding, figured no one answered because they didnt know.

so heres one for you, can you put the VR signal/mfa stalks on a G60 steering column in place of the G60 signal/mfa stalks.


----------



## Corrado_ryno (Nov 13, 2010)

Will a G60 passengerside door handle work in replacing my broken 92 SLC passenger door handle? Outside ofcourse....


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

Yes, but they can look slightly different I believe


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> yes like how you hadnt noticed that my last bunch of questions has gone un-answered.
> kidding, figured no one answered because they didnt know.
> 
> so heres one for you, can you put the VR signal/mfa stalks on a G60 steering column in place of the G60 signal/mfa stalks.


Ya, didn't really have an answer for you and there was some info missing 

And, I'd be guessing to answer the last one because I have not personally tried the stalk swap...



Corrado_ryno said:


> Will a G60 passengerside door handle work in replacing my broken 92 SLC passenger door handle? Outside ofcourse....


yes, you may have to swap the lock tumblers tho, rather than just swapping the lock mechanism, easy, just tedious and BE CAREFULL, tiny springs :thumbup:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

JamesS said:


> Yes, but they can look slightly different I believe


slightly, VR has a raised ring around lock cyl, G60 is smooth, dunno what's on the 92 VR tho...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> slightly, VR has a raised ring around lock cyl, G60 is smooth, dunno what's on the 92 VR tho...


92 is same as g60


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> 92 is same as g60


:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> ...and there was some info missing


Did I not include info I should have? I mentioned that I had a G60... that should answer the 'which corrado model' question. What info did I miss including?

...or am I missing your attempt at sarcasm? lol


----------



## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

> Thanks for the pics. My car doesn't have the charcoal canister or any of the lines. The previous owner must have deleted them all.
> I checked every hose on the car and they are all in fine shape with no cracks or splits.
> Still, the car idles at 1100 rpms. When I blip the throttle and release it the idle drops down to 800 and immediately jumps back to 1100 rpms.
> Here is the question...
> ...


[/QUOTE] 


I found a thread that talked about the Stage 4 upgrade kit and specifically the SNS Stage 4 chip. They said that the chip is preset for an 1100rpm idle. 
The guy who started the thread asked how come his car idled all the time at 1100 rpms. He had a full stage 4 kit just like my car. He tried to adjust the idle but the car would just stall. He called SNS and they told him that its programmed for a 1100 rpm idle because of the Stage 4 charger, the cam and the FPR.


----------



## Corrado_ryno (Nov 13, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> slightly, VR has a raised ring around lock cyl, G60 is smooth, dunno what's on the 92 VR tho...


Thank you very much for all yall's help! that was my second question, and it was answered just as fast, and courteously as the first! You guys rock!


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I think they used the word "servo" for the brake booster in ETKA IIRC, and the vacuum line to it should be the only hard plastic hose in there. Connects to intake manifold, the upper one(normally) :thumbup:


So, removing it from the manifold side shouldn't let air into the system right???


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> couple questions for the experts...
> 
> 1) I'm getting my alternator rewound so it puts out higher amperage. Now I know the stock Alt is 90 (G60), and I know the stock Vr is 120. I own a G60. The electrical shop I getting to rewind my alt said they can wind it to 120 AMP, , 140 AMP, 160 AMP, or 180 AMP. My question is this is there a limit to the amperage I can have my alt put out without damaging the electrical system? I know its already flakey as it is. lol *I would not recommend anything above 120a, altho people with high demand audio systems have run higher, would be no benefit...*
> 
> ...


better 



RedYellowWhite said:


> So, removing it from the manifold side shouldn't let air into the system right???


Oh, it will.............................................................. But does not matter :laugh:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> ...Oh, it will.............................................................. But does not matter :laugh:


Lol, care to further explain this to a noob (me)? 
Are you saying that as I hook it back in, the pressure in the pedal is going to come back to normal?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Lol, care to further explain this to a noob (me)?
> Are you saying that as I hook it back in, the pressure in the pedal is going to come back to normal?


HAHA, sorry man, it doesn't matter the booster(servo) doesn't hold pressure or vacuum, only when pulling the vac from the intake(car running), it is fine to remove, mine is sitting outside right now, I would plug the opening with something to not allow any water or crap to get in the booster


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> HAHA, sorry man, it doesn't matter the booster(servo) doesn't hold pressure or vacuum, only when pulling the vac from the intake(car running), it is fine to remove, mine is sitting outside right now, I would plug the opening with something to not allow any water or crap to get in the booster


Cheers buddy :thumbup: :beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Cheers buddy :thumbup: :beer:


:beer:

Did you get all your fuelling questions answered


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> :beer:
> 
> Did you get all your fuelling questions answered


Check my thread for that... I guess yes but we can only wait and see after the injectors get tested/cleaned, o-rings and cups replaced and re-assemble everything back together.
Right now I'm detabing on whether:
1) I should buy the BBM alloy rail (I prefer not to if I don't have to)
2) I should take the head off and rebuilt it + p&p, Schrick valve/retainers etc, ARP (one of the "while I'm there situations)
3) just fix the issues without going with any of the above and concentrate on the other project I have planned

We'll see how it goes...


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Check my thread for that... I guess yes but we can only wait and see after the injectors get tested/cleaned, o-rings and cups replaced and re-assemble everything back together.
> Right now I'm detabing on whether:
> 1) I should buy the BBM alloy rail (I prefer not to if I don't have to)
> 2) I should take the head off and rebuilt it + p&p, Schrick valve/retainers etc, ARP (one of the "while I'm there situations)
> ...


I read thru the responses and didn't see anything amiss, Shawn and his coffee :laugh:

I would not replace the injector cups

1. Your call, OEM is always an option (I just got mine BTW  )......:laugh:

2. *NO!!!!*

3. :thumbup:


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

What does a cam install cost on a G60?

I have a 268/260 (i think) from the previous owner that was never installed


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

elijah- said:


> What does a cam install cost on a G60?
> 
> I have a 268/260 (i think) from the previous owner that was never installed


Job should take about an hour if they know what they are doing, $65??? Why not just do it yourself?


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Job should take about an hour if they know what they are doing, $65??? Why not just do it yourself?


I have no idea how to do it or what I need to do in order to not **** my motor up. A 1 hour job sounds do-able to me, I was expecting it to cost in the hundreds. Anywhere I can find a guide/tips for installing one?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

elijah- said:


> I have no idea how to do it or what I need to do in order to not **** my motor up. A 1 hour job sounds do-able to me, I was expecting it to cost in the hundreds. Anywhere I can find a guide/tips for installing one?


You can just google it, the Bentley has an excellent removal/install writeup. You will need a torque wrench and possibly an impact driver for the cam sprocket bolt, can't remember what I used, IIRC just hand tools for that bolt...


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

i think its sad that this thread got bumped off the sticky list only to be replaced with advertisements.


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

Noobercorn said:


> i think its sad that this thread got bumped off the sticky list only to be replaced with advertisements.


Oh yeah I didn't notice until you pointed it out... b.s. :thumbdown:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Noobercorn said:


> i think its sad that this thread got bumped off the sticky list only to be replaced with advertisements.


ya man, my thoughts exactly :thumbdown:

Can we file an appeal? :wave:


----------



## burnvictim (Jun 13, 2007)

So I think my broken tensioner may be causing my running problems. As you can see in the blurry photo below one can actually see the bearings. :banghead: 

So I have been reading up on how to replace it and there is a special tool mentioned but not the part number or name. Anyone have this info?

Ok found it here.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Corrado--G60/General_Purpose/Tools/ES1306819/
and 
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Corrado--G60/Engine/Timing/ES1306820/
Anyone prefer one over the other?

Is this tool necessary to use to replace the tensioner or set the timing?

And while I'm in there should I tackle anything else?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

burnvictim said:


> So I think my broken tensioner may be causing my running problems. As you can see in the blurry photo below one can actually see the bearings. :banghead:
> 
> So I have been reading up on how to replace it and there is a special tool mentioned but not the part number or name. Anyone have this info?
> 
> ...


You can do it without the tool, but it isn't easy and chances are good you won't get proper tension.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> You can do it without the tool, but it isn't easy and chances are good you won't get proper tension.


the Bentley gives proper tension, roll at 90* .......:laugh:


----------



## MrBland (Jul 9, 2010)

My 1992 VR6 Corrado died on me twice this past weekend. First time I left it overnight at a parking lot after it died and would only crank. I came in the morning and it started up fine, then stalled, then started back up and drove fine. I figured it must have been some problem with either the fuel pump or it wasn't getting a spark, so I drove to work and, once again, it died. This time I was able to check for a spark and wasn't getting any. Towed her home  and tested the coil and the multimeter readings were way off, so I figure that's the culprit. 

Anyways... What's a good coil to order, and order fast because my Corrado is my daily. 
Would this one work? 
http://www.amazon.com/Ignition-6N0905104-6N0905104A-EuroVan-Cabriolet/dp/B000VP4XXY


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

MrBland said:


> My 1992 VR6 Corrado died on me twice this past weekend. First time I left it overnight at a parking lot after it died and would only crank. I came in the morning and it started up fine, then stalled, then started back up and drove fine. I figured it must have been some problem with either the fuel pump or it wasn't getting a spark, so I drove to work and, once again, it died. This time I was able to check for a spark and wasn't getting any. Towed her home  and tested the coil and the multimeter readings were way off, so I figure that's the culprit.
> 
> Anyways... What's a good coil to order, and order fast because my Corrado is my daily.
> Would this one work?
> http://www.amazon.com/Ignition-6N0905104-6N0905104A-EuroVan-Cabriolet/dp/B000VP4XXY


Sounds electrical IMHO, but check things before ordering parts...


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

this place gets parts IMMEDIATELY, and can ship just as fast. if you call them before noon, they have it in hand BY 3. if you need me to pick it up and ship it to ya i can, i like a mile from them.


http://www.bimmerparts.com/ShopByVe...agen&[email protected]@Corrado+SLC+V6&mode=PG


----------



## MrBland (Jul 9, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Sounds electrical IMHO, but check things before ordering parts...


Hm... well, I did test out the coil and the reading between the two terminals was .1 ohm, when it should be between .5 and .7ohms and the second resistance test gave me a reading of 7500ohms, when it should be 3-4000.... The coil power output was receiving the right voltage. Any tips on what else to look for?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

MrBland said:


> Hm... well, I did test out the coil and the reading between the two terminals was .1 ohm, when it should be between .5 and .7ohms and the second resistance test gave me a reading of 7500ohms, when it should be 3-4000.... The coil power output was receiving the right voltage. Any tips on what else to look for?


man, too technical for me right now, too many :beer:'s but just refer to the Bentley


----------



## MrBland (Jul 9, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> man, too technical for me right now, too many :beer:'s but just refer to the Bentley


Haha, I understand. If it came down to it, would that amazon link work? I'm just trying to conserve my cash, as well as ship it fast.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

MrBland said:


> Haha, I understand. If it came down to it, would that amazon link work? I'm just trying to conserve my cash, as well as ship it fast.


If you don't have a Bentley, it should be ur *VERY* next purchase :thumbup:


----------



## MrBland (Jul 9, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> If you don't have a Bentley, it should be ur *VERY*next purchase :thumbup:


I _do_ have a Bentley. I'm just asking whether or not that coil would work as a replacement if that's all I can narrow it down to.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

MrBland said:


> I _do_ have a Bentley. I'm just asking whether or not that coil would work as a replacement if that's all I can narrow it down to.


:thumbup::thumbup: 

Cheap enough to replace :thumbup:


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

This thread being stickied is like a woman deciding on which pair of shoes to wear.....
:wave:


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2008)

Noobercorn said:


> This thread being stickied is like a woman deciding on which pair of shoes to wear.....
> :wave:


Back to sticky status... nice. And wow to 81,000 views.


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

MrBland said:


> Hm... well, I did test out the coil and the reading between the two terminals was .1 ohm, when it should be between .5 and .7ohms and the second resistance test gave me a reading of 7500ohms, when it should be 3-4000.... The coil power output was receiving the right voltage. Any tips on what else to look for?


Your coil is fine. I thought my coil was bad a few years ago with similar readings compared to the Bentley. I bought a brand new Bosch one and it didn't fix my problem. Your problems seem very similar to what was wrong with mine. I'd put money on a new ECM relay. It's like $10 from the dealer.


----------



## g60raddo90 (Jun 26, 2010)

*noob*

ok so i got a 90 g60 it is killing me i love the car but the car is loving me in the ass.(not feeling good)
so my raddo is overheating iv got a new alternator regulator(idk if thats going to help) i need to know what should i do about this problem and also the last owner really didnt take car of the cars rear bounces like a mother any help on pulling this car backtogether


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

g60raddo90 said:


> ok so i got a 90 g60 it is killing me i love the car but the car is loving me in the ass.(not feeling good)
> so my raddo is overheating iv got a new alternator regulator(idk if thats going to help) i need to know what should i do about this problem and also the last owner really didnt take car of the cars rear bounces like a mother any help on pulling this car backtogether


could be anything really, from a simple sensor to a head gasket...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

g60raddo90 said:


> ok so i got a 90 g60 it is killing me i love the car but the car is loving me in the ass.(not feeling good)
> so my raddo is overheating iv got a new alternator regulator(idk if thats going to help) i need to know what should i do about this problem and also the last owner really didnt take car of the cars rear bounces like a mother any help on pulling this car backtogether


Alternator and car over heating are two different issues.

Sounds like you have a bad water pump or a stuck thermostat. Check both the upper and lower radiator hoses to see if they are hot. If only the upper is hot then bad thermostat, otherwise waterpump.

The rear bouncing sounds like bad struts. Is the car lowered?


----------



## cstanley19 (Sep 23, 2006)

Since I swapped to non-abs I will be running three lines and the master cylinder has 4 ports, I need a plug for the right rear port. I looked up oichan's swap thread but there is no part number for that plug, anyone know where I can find this? I have tried every hardware store and autozone in the area. Is this an OEM vw part I can get at a dealer? It's M10 1.00.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cstanley19 said:


> Since I swapped to non-abs I will be running three lines and the master cylinder has 4 ports, I need a plug for the right rear port. I looked up oichan's swap thread but there is no part number for that plug, anyone know where I can find this? I have tried every hardware store and autozone in the area. Is this an OEM vw part I can get at a dealer? It's M10 1.00.


you will need to find a specialty bolt shop, if you can't find one in your area I can go grab one and mail it to ya :thumbup:


----------



## MrBland (Jul 9, 2010)

iAco said:


> Your coil is fine. I thought my coil was bad a few years ago with similar readings compared to the Bentley. I bought a brand new Bosch one and it didn't fix my problem. Your problems seem very similar to what was wrong with mine. I'd put money on a new ECM relay. It's like $10 from the dealer.


Well too bad I ordered a new coil haha.  If it doesn't fix it, then I will definitely get a new ECM relay. Thanks! I had read up on some others that had similar problem to mine, and theirs' ended up being the coil, so we'll see. Thanks for the advice! :thumbup:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Thanks for finding it Anthony :beer:


----------



## 101vet (Aug 26, 2006)

*Another ABS issue..*

So the corrado i bought has the standard ABS prob going on, ive searched the forums and found some good info but wanted to share what exactly is going on see if anyone knows whats up..

1990 G60 5spd 130,000 miles
10 years as a mechanic , mostly MK1's on the civilian side.

Bought the car off a buddy ABS light had been on for awhile no clue how long :what:

he drove it down to my place without issue he had just put new rear ROTORS/PADS on it.

I noticed the fronts were shot so before driving it from Colo to Cali i was gonna put new front Rotors/Pads onit. on the way to the parts store i was cutoff slamed on the brakes and got a weird shutter feeling, but brakes seemed to work normally after that.

coming off the highway they felt weird and went SUPER HARD.

put the new stuff on didn't solve it and found out i was not getting fluid to the rear BRAKES.

oky fast forward to now, SC blew on the way here replaced it the car sat for alittle over a month on the first test drive the brakes worked normal :what: it took about 15 mins for the ABS light to come on but the brakes still worked fine.

shut the car off to check the oil level and make sure notheng was leaking , started it and brakes where hard again.

anyone know where the relays are and how to jump to see if i can get the pump working? I put a know good ABS module down on the driveside in and it didn't change anything.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

101vet said:


> So the corrado i bought has the standard ABS prob going on, ive searched the forums and found some good info but wanted to share what exactly is going on see if anyone knows whats up..
> 
> 1990 G60 5spd 130,000 miles
> 10 years as a mechanic , mostly MK1's on the civilian side.
> ...


Valve body in the pump sounds like it's done. Replace the pump or go NON ABS.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

The rubber hose that connects the boost return tube with the lower side of the TB on a G60, does anyone know/can tell if its a 90o hose? Its part # is 191 145 825 and I think its 43mm ID...Maybe the ETKA shows more details??? 
This is NLA according to my "stealer" (and even if it wasn't I'm not spending the 170euro the oem one costs ) and my only option is to replace it with a silicon one...

Thanks 

edit: maybe a pic would help further...


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TTT


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Hard to tell from the pic, but it should be pretty close to a 90.


----------



## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

Easy to check if its a 90°, put it in the corner of a wall or wall to floor and check if both side sit flush. From the pic it look a little under 90, maybe it was and it bent over time...


----------



## crisvr6 (Jun 14, 2007)

RedYellowWhite said:


> The rubber hose that connects the boost return tube with the lower side of the TB on a G60, does anyone know/can tell if its a 90o hose? Its part # is 191 145 825 and I think its 43mm ID...Maybe the ETKA shows more details???
> This is NLA according to my "stealer" (and even if it wasn't I'm not spending the 170euro the oem one costs ) and my only option is to replace it with a silicon one...
> 
> Thanks
> ...



on vag cat, part nr. 191 145 825 = connecting hose 1990 Corrado CHARGE AIR COOLER 1.8ltr. 4 cylinder: PG
price : 38.45 Euro


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Seb--Morin said:


> Easy to check if its a 90°, put it in the corner of a wall or wall to floor and check if both side sit flush. From the pic it look a little under 90, maybe it was and it bent over time...


Yeah, that's what I meant...that it looks like or close to 90o but maybe because mine is used now its not 90o. I was wondering if anyone knows (or if the ETKA specify) if the oem one is indeed a 90o hose...



crisvr6 said:


> on vag cat, part nr. 191 145 825 = connecting hose 1990 Corrado CHARGE AIR COOLER 1.8ltr. 4 cylinder: PG
> price : 38.45 Euro


 Cris, either your vagcat is outdated (old version/old price) or my dealer is lying to me. I think he told me 145euro+vat=170
Can anyone confirm the above price and if its NLA??? 




TheBurninator said:


> Hard to tell from the pic, but it should be pretty close to a 90.


Thanks Kyle :thumbup: :beer:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Cris, either your vagcat is outdated (old version/old price) or my dealer is lying to me. I think he told me 145euro+vat=170
> Can anyone confirm the above price and if its NLA???
> :


Looks like it is still available from 1stvwparts. 90USD and list is 122USD. Sounds like your dealer is ripping you off.

I think you should have a set of IC pipes made to eliminate all of the BS couplers. :thumbup:


----------



## crisvr6 (Jun 14, 2007)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Cris, either your vagcat is outdated (old version/old price) or my dealer is lying to me. I think he told me 145euro+vat=170
> Can anyone confirm the above price and if its NLA???


its from the online vag cat.. 

i mean 145 euro = 193 $ for that little hose is toooo much


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Looks like it is still available from 1stvwparts. 90USD and list is 122USD. Sounds like your dealer is ripping you off.
> 
> I think you should have a set of IC pipes made to eliminate all of the BS couplers. :thumbup:


Yep, sure looks like it . ..everything is more expensive here anyways and with our damn vat here plus shipping costs =  I'm gonna go with a 90o silicone one


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Yep, sure looks like it . ..everything is more expensive here anyways and with our damn vat here plus shipping costs =  I'm gonna go with a 90o silicone one


Do you have an ISV reroute in your car? It looks like the coupler is less than a 90* bend from what I can tell. It looks like 75* or 80* (I just went pic hunting)

Although a silicone 90 should work well. Maybe contact samco about an individual hose even?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Do you have an ISV reroute in your car? It looks like the coupler is less than a 90* bend from what I can tell. It looks like 75* or 80* (I just went pic hunting)
> 
> Although a silicone 90 should work well. Maybe contact samco about an individual hose even?


No ISV reroute but why? 
I measure it and it comes to 70o roughly, but since I cant find such degree silicone hose I think the 90o one should work (and its not that expensive at 23euro )

I measure its ID and it comes to 43mm but Samco only offers it in either 41mm or 45mm


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

okay to reuse balljoint hardware w/ new balljoint? Can't get hardware till monday but need to do the repairs tomorrow


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

RedYellowWhite said:


> No ISV reroute but why?
> I measure it and it comes to 70o roughly, but since I cant find such degree silicone hose I think the 90o one should work (and its not that expensive at 23euro )
> 
> I measure its ID and it comes to 43mm but Samco only offers it in either 41mm or 45mm


...and ordered: 1 x Samco Black 90* 45mm for the boost return pipe and 1 x Samco Black 90* 60mm for the TB to IC pipe


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

valet said:


> okay to reuse balljoint hardware w/ new balljoint? Can't get hardware till monday but need to do the repairs tomorrow


yes


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

Is a sunroof motor cover from a 94 Passat the same 
cover that's in a Corrado? Looks very similar.


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

Sr. Karmann said:


> yes



thanks!

man I love me some heavily discounted parts!


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

i just HAD to post this......


----------



## Choppa6 (Jan 9, 2009)

Alrighty then........................With ISV plugged in, car is crappy. Horrible Idle. Without it, it runs great!!!

Why? 

I have cleaned the ISV. Even replaced it. Same prob. I did not unplug while car was running.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Noobercorn said:


> i just HAD to post this......



^^Scary sh!t :sly:.......


_Damn, 6 weeks wait on the black Samco hoses :banghead:_


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Choppa6 said:


> Alrighty then........................With ISV plugged in, car is crappy. Horrible Idle. Without it, it runs great!!!
> 
> Why?
> 
> I have cleaned the ISV. Even replaced it. Same prob. I did not unplug while car was running.


sounds like you're on to something, ditch it


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

So I have a 92 SLC, and I have a stock g60 bumper with shaved side markers. I am planning on removing the current bumper and replacing with this g60 bumper. I have researched and I know the slc is a little wider than the g60 at the fenders. Is it worth trying to use this g60 bumper? I am going to be getting the whole car repainted and changed back to stock in the spring and I am wondering if its possible to make this g60 bumper work with good results, or will this not work and be visibly noticable.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

While it is only a few mm it will look "off" IMO.


----------



## crisvr6 (Jun 14, 2007)

and you see the diff. in the line, the new one goes straight and the old goes up


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

crisvr6 said:


> and you see the diff. in the line, the new one goes straight and the old goes up


92 bumpers still look like early g60 ones. Only 93+ had the tapered line.


----------



## crisvr6 (Jun 14, 2007)

not really, my old one was outside the new modell and inside the old 
and it was a 92 vr6


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

Thanks. I think I will just source a slc bumper so I dont do all this work and have a possibility of it being a little off. So g60 bumper with shaved side markers up for sale.


----------



## cstanley19 (Sep 23, 2006)

Bleeding brakes and master cylinder, which goes first? I know the pecking order with the brakes but just wondering which is best to start with?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cstanley19 said:


> Bleeding brakes and master cylinder, which goes first? I know the pecking order with the brakes but just wondering which is best to start with?


bleed the brake MC, the clutch MC, then the brakes, then the clutch slave.


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

TheBurninator said:


> 92 bumpers still look like early g60 ones. Only 93+ had the tapered line.


 My '92 SLC had the tapered version.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cstanley19 said:


> Bleeding brakes and master cylinder, which goes first? I know the pecking order with the brakes but just wondering which is best to start with?


I see you got your plug :thumbup::thumbup: Was it there in the 2 days like they said?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

NoCYet said:


> My '92 SLC had the tapered version.


I have seen both before, but the majority was the early style on the 92's. Probably a split year type thing :thumbup:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Perkasie Dubs said:


> So I have a 92 SLC, and I have a stock g60 bumper with shaved side markers. I am planning on removing the current bumper and replacing with this g60 bumper. I have researched and I know the slc is a little wider than the g60 at the fenders. Is it worth trying to use this g60 bumper? I am going to be getting the whole car repainted and changed back to stock in the spring and I am wondering if its possible to make this g60 bumper work with good results, or will this not work and be visibly noticable.


You have a Zender Kit on the car. Don't mess with it.


----------



## cstanley19 (Sep 23, 2006)

Two thumbs up for the plug!! hahah Ya I got it in 2 days. Thanks Chad. 

Thanks Kyle.


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

I'm getting ready to do the capacitive discharge to clear my codes ghetto style. Anything I should expect when I put the batt cables together??


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cstanley19 said:


> Ya I got it in 2 days. Thanks Chad.
> 
> Thanks Kyle.


Awesome :thumbup::thumbup:



pej said:


> I'm getting ready to do the capacitive discharge to clear my codes ghetto style. Anything I should expect when I put the batt cables together??


ya man, smoke, and lot's of it, coming from under the hood and under the dash, keep your fire extinguisher ready :laugh: Nah man, touch them together for the 30 secs and put them back on the battery :thumbup:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> ya man, smoke, and lot's of it, coming from under the hood and under the dash, keep your fire extinguisher ready :laugh: Nah man, touch them together for the 30 secs and put them back on the battery :thumbup:


Really? I always thought something like that would damage the ECU :sly: ...you learn something new everyday


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Really? I always thought something like that would damage the ECU :sly: ...you learn something new everyday


:thumbup:.....:beer:


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> You have a Zender Kit on the car. Don't mess with it.


I know this. But its fibertrash and it was poorly installed and needs alot of work to look good. Not to mention I have no idea what it looks like under the side skirts I have seen a little rust under there from the wheel well side.


----------



## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

Okay so I just bought some winter tires for the stock BBS wheels. They are 5 lug just like the bolt pattern on my car now. But for some reason it doesn't line up!

There are spacers on it and I dont know if that has anything to do with it or what. It seems to be off by just a little. Like the bolts pattern on the car seems wider than the one on the wheel. And also it seems that the 5 bolts that hold the spacer on would fit the pattern on the wheel but I have no idea how to change that if thats even possible.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Perkasie Dubs said:


> I know this. But its fibertrash and it was poorly installed and needs alot of work to look good. Not to mention I have no idea what it looks like under the side skirts I have seen a little rust under there from the wheel well side.


That sucks. Intact kits are rare. Try and take it off nicely. Should help you attain all parts needed to clean it up a nice bit.


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

bpodlesnik said:


> Okay so I just bought some winter tires for the stock BBS wheels. They are 5 lug just like the bolt pattern on my car now. But for some reason it doesn't line up!
> 
> There are spacers on it and I dont know if that has anything to do with it or what. It seems to be off by just a little. Like the bolts pattern on the car seems wider than the one on the wheel. And also it seems that the 5 bolts that hold the spacer on would fit the pattern on the wheel but I have no idea how to change that if thats even possible.


Sounds like maybe you have 5x112 adapters on a stock 5x100 hub maybe?


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> That sucks. Intact kits are rare. Try and take it off nicely. Should help you attain all parts needed to clean it up a nice bit.


I am easily persuaded. Your talkin me into keepin it based on it being rare. Do you know if the side skirts on the zender corrado were molded to the car? Ive looked at pics but cant seem to find any that give a close enough shot to see clearly.


----------



## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

Perkasie Dubs said:


> Sounds like maybe you have 5x112 adapters on a stock 5x100 hub maybe?


I just got done looking some stuff up and they are actually 5x120. So where can I get an adapter to convert back to 5x100? I googled it and everything that pops up only says about going from 5x100 to 5x120 and not the other way around...


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Perkasie Dubs said:


> I am easily persuaded. Your talkin me into keepin it based on it being rare. Do you know if the side skirts on the zender corrado were molded to the car? Ive looked at pics but cant seem to find any that give a close enough shot to see clearly.


I bet, they didn't have high res cameras when those kits were around :laugh:


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

dude with spacers: why not just take off the effing spacers you have? duh 

perkasiedubs, you live 10 minutes from my houz :wave:


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## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

bpodlesnik said:


> I just got done looking some stuff up and they are actually 5x120. So where can I get an adapter to convert back to 5x100? I googled it and everything that pops up only says about going from 5x100 to 5x120 and not the other way around...


 Umm, just remove them... :facepalm:


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Perkasie Dubs said:


> I am easily persuaded. Your talkin me into keepin it based on it being rare. Do you know if the side skirts on the zender corrado were molded to the car? Ive looked at pics but cant seem to find any that give a close enough shot to see clearly.


I do not believe they were molded in, but it does look better body wise when that is done and done correctly. 

Yes, Zender sideskirts that are still with the 2 bumpers are indeed rareasfu(k (all one word).

With the right paintwork, and wheels (*Cough* Zender Turbos *Cough*)








You would have a true timeless piece of Corrado history. 

I was never too big on the Zender over wing though....the one piece of the kit that just doesn't do it for me.


----------



## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

NoCYet said:


> Umm, just remove them... :facepalm:


Sorry for the incredibly stupid question. I really wasn't thinking about it when I posted:banghead:


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

bpodlesnik said:


> Sorry for the incredibly stupid question. I really wasn't thinking about it when I posted:banghead:


Nominated as "best Vortex question" of the year  

j/k


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

the only stupid question is one thats not asked bro, but it was evidently under-researched


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## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

Noobercorn said:


> perkasiedubs, you live 10 minutes from my houz :wave:


:wave: I have been talkin to some other local rado owners and I know one other guy that has one in Perkasie. Since I bought mine I have seen atleast 6 others locally. We should do a local G2G sometime when it warms up. Where do you live?


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> I do not believe they were molded in, but it does look better body wise when that is done and done correctly.
> 
> Yes, Zender sideskirts that are still with the 2 bumpers are indeed rareasfu(k (all one word).
> 
> ...


Yeah not a fan of the wing either. As far as the zender turbos... ive looked at them alot and they still havent grown on me yet. I will keep lookin and see if anything happens. :laugh:


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## victorg60 (Dec 8, 2010)

*new corrado owner auction car where to start on motor bug's*

I just recently picked up a 1990 corrado g60 at an auction for 1200, bonestock, 110,000 original mile's white, has aftermarket mag's andi think thats it, my first questions are what I should do, apon cleaning the car out have found receipt's for tires, water pump t-stat, another big receipt for a place in seattle called fat city quality maitenance & repair of fine german car's... it is as state's

tech code: description
top dead center and checked
all three marks for crankshaft, intermediate shaft, and camshaft timeing. all 3 marks are off by a large amount. recommend haveing timeing corrected by removeing and installing belt correctly and evaluateing further as necessary. it is allso known that the vehicle damaged oxygen sensor wires at sensor ( have been connected with connector"s) and main engine wireing harness. it is doubtful the sensor is working at all. the inoperation of the oxygen sensor does not account for present poor running condition but does effect overall engine performance to a certain extent.

after it says that he purchased a igniton switch/lock houseing, coolant temp sensor, motor and trans mount's and recommends that he return to place of head gasket to correct timeing

after that he got an estimate for other things that are

timeing belts
oxygen sensor
spark plug's
front shocks and mounts
test oil intrusion intake, engine oil film is present in intake boot at co potentiameter
front brake job and rotor's
totalling 1438.25 but he never got that work done 

another receipt for
headgasket kit
cap 03214
rotor 04170
4 plugs w6dpo
airfilter c3115211
fuel filter 71028
plugwires 09152
coolant temp sensor
tune up 85.00
oil change 25.95
R&R cylinder head 450.00
machine head 90.00
total 1,073.80

my concerns are apon starting the car it has a tick in the motor and letting it idle to operationg temps it goes away ( havent driven it around the block) my dad says it prolly needs timeing adjusted, and it is getting to around 220 degrees just at idle, I havent flushed the coolant or oil yet, what is the best stuff to use? allso I found a thermostat in the passenger floorboard...... as a starting point should I do a complete system flush and a new thermostat and go from there? I have no clue if the charger has ever been rebuilt and I dont wanna drive it if the timeing is off.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

victorg60 said:


> my concerns are apon starting the car it has a tick in the motor and letting it idle to operationg temps it goes away ( havent driven it around the block) my dad says it prolly needs timeing adjusted, and it is getting to around 220 degrees just at idle, I havent flushed the coolant or oil yet, what is the best stuff to use? allso I found a thermostat in the passenger floorboard...... as a starting point should I do a complete system flush and a new thermostat and go from there? I have no clue if the charger has ever been rebuilt and I dont wanna drive it if the timeing is off.


It will tick for a little bit til the oil gets up into the head, pretty normal, may need a slightly thicker oil. I would definitely verify the timing before you go driving on it, but highly doubt it is off by much if it is running normally. 

Flush the coolant with distilled water, there are some writeups on here, but flush till all clear and re-fill with VW G-12 coolant and distilled water only. You can replace the thermostat and would recomment s lower temp t-stat 80*C seems to work great for the G60, found here... http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Cooling/213/1 A great place to order parts from :thumbup:


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## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

*Heating*

OK so idk if it could be related to the SAI delete but my heater seems to have issue... 

It will get pretty warm once im rolling for 5mins BUT when im idling the air get much colder and its almost like outside fresh air :S Oh and also my temp gauge will sligtly go over the middle mark when im in deep traffic but goes back to normal as soon as i roll 20+ and i think thats normal but the heater thing?


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## yosa12 (Oct 4, 2010)

*headlights*

Hello All. 
I have a 93 SLC. The headlights need to be replaced as the drivers side was damaged beyond repair. Was told upon purchase that the lights are euro. I have heard/read that there are a few differences with regards to headlights (US light, Euro-left lane, Euro-Right lane and E codes). Is there a real world difference between the different versions? Also, I have read that G60 lights can and cannot be used on a SLC. That is confusing as well. 
THanks 
Mike


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

yosa12 said:


> Hello All.
> I have a 93 SLC. The headlights need to be replaced as the drivers side was damaged beyond repair. Was told upon purchase that the lights are euro. I have heard/read that there are a few differences with regards to headlights (US light, Euro-left lane, Euro-Right lane and E codes). Is there a real world difference between the different versions? Also, I have read that G60 lights can and cannot be used on a SLC. That is confusing as well.
> THanks
> Mike


 E-codes from the UK or other countries that were RHD will point light towards the left side whereas LHD will point light to the right side (so you can see the shoulder) 

G60 ecodes will fit in an SLC but there will be a minor alignment issue with the core support and fenders.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Seb--Morin said:


> OK so idk if it could be related to the SAI delete but my heater seems to have issue...
> 
> It will get pretty warm once im rolling for 5mins BUT when im idling the air get much colder and its almost like outside fresh air :S Oh and also my temp gauge will sligtly go over the middle mark when im in deep traffic but goes back to normal as soon as i roll 20+ and i think thats normal but the heater thing?


 You either have a heater core on the way out, or your fresh air blend door is staying open, or have a coolant issue where there may be blockage restricting flow. 

Have you done a water pump ?



yosa12 said:


> Hello All.
> I have a 93 SLC. The headlights need to be replaced as the drivers side was damaged beyond repair. Was told upon purchase that the lights are euro. I have heard/read that there are a few differences with regards to headlights (US light, Euro-left lane, Euro-Right lane and E codes). Is there a real world difference between the different versions? Also, I have read that G60 lights can and cannot be used on a SLC. That is confusing as well.
> Thanks
> Mike


 Actually Pretty Simple. Yes there are real world differences as you say. 
UK E-codes are all focused for driving on the left, all other countries that drive on the right side will work for US cars being we drive on the right. 

G60 and SLC or VR6 e-codes are different on the glass and the bezels. If you put G60 E Codes on a VR6 car, they will be sunk in more, and not fill out the front end. 

People do run G60 ecodes on VR6's but IMO it looks crappy.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

yosa12 said:


> Hello All.
> I have a 93 SLC. The headlights need to be replaced as the drivers side was damaged beyond repair. Was told upon purchase that the lights are euro. I have heard/read that there are a few differences with regards to headlights (US light, Euro-left lane, Euro-Right lane and E codes). Is there a real world difference between the different versions? Also, I have read that G60 lights can and cannot be used on a SLC. That is confusing as well.
> THanks
> Mike


 Yeah, what other people below have said regarding differences & fitting, plus what part is damaged on your e-codes? You can buy the parts separately from EPP -European Performance Products (like if your reflector is good but the glass is damaged, you can just buy the glass - that way maybe you'll get lucky and not have to buy a complete e-code assembly)


----------



## yosa12 (Oct 4, 2010)

Thanks guys for the clarification. To answer you question RedYellowWhite, the light is toast. lens and reflector are in little pieces. housing is damaged as well. I looked at EPP but would just about have to replace everything...component wise. So now I'm trying to find a replacement.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

yosa12 said:


> Thanks guys for the clarification. To answer you question RedYellowWhite, the light is toast. lens and reflector are in little pieces. housing is damaged as well. I looked at EPP but would just about have to replace everything...component wise. So now I'm trying to find a replacement.


 I see e-codes on ebay pop up from time to time. :thumbup:


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## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

*ecodes, g60 convertable to slc/vr6?*

I have a 93 slc and I'm pretty certain it has G60 ecodes in it. If I'm correct I can change these to VR6 style by purchasing lenses and the lens surround plastic from epp? I think thats probably my best route, unless someone has some vr6 ecodes that wants to trade. They are in great shape with lens protectors too.:grinsanta:


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## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> You either have a heater core on the way out, or your fresh air blend door is staying open, or have a coolant issue where there may be blockage restricting flow.
> 
> Have you done a water pump ?


 Heater core... fuk!  I dont know if its the original one but i know the blower motor as been changed for a valeo one. Would it smell bad if its on its way and would it leak necessarly (pass. side) 

Fresh air blend door is located under the rain tray right? 

And a lot of coolant system parts have been changed this summer.Pretty much everything: thermostat and housing, crackpipe, yellow sensor (fan), system flushed with new pink G12... Rad maybe? but it look decent no major ding. 


Thanks Zak :thumbup:


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Seb--Morin said:


> Heater core... fuk!  I dont know if its the original one but i know the blower motor as been changed for a valeo one. Would it smell bad if its on its way and would it leak necessarly (pass. side)
> *If you have the 10 Pin FCM & Harness Update, you had the heater core recall preformed most likely. Even so, if there is any fluid on the pass floor, that would either be the core, evaporator, or your drains are clogged.
> *
> Fresh air blend door is located under the rain tray right?
> ...


 *No problem, good luck I hope you get her sorted. :thumbup:*


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> I have a 93 slc and I'm pretty certain it has G60 ecodes in it. If I'm correct I can change these to VR6 style by purchasing lenses and the lens surround plastic from epp? I think thats probably my best route, unless someone has some vr6 ecodes that wants to trade. They are in great shape with lens protectors too.:grinsanta:


 3 "E1"s on the lens mean they are G60 ecodes. 1 "E1" is for VR6 or Late spec lights. 

As RedYellowWhite said earlier, yup, swap the lenses and bezels, you will then have VR6 Ecode lighting.


----------



## yosa12 (Oct 4, 2010)

Dubzak. Just looked at the surviving light. It has three E1's on it. It also has a H4 on it as well. Sounds like I have/had G60 lights. Thanks to everyone for the help. Now I just have to find a set..hopefully somewhat less than retail.


----------



## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

Quick question... Would these fit my C ? 

Cabrio stricker pin 
http://europartimport.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=21_77_84&products_id=2688


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## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

Seb--Morin said:


> Quick question... Would these fit my C ?
> 
> Cabrio stricker pin
> http://europartimport.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=21_77_84&products_id=2688


 Yeah all the older VW's use the same pin... you can prob check German Auto Parts or ECS and get them a little cheaper than that, though.


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## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

^^  
Cool thanks, ill look it up but that is a local site so maybe shipping will even out... I might take a trip to a junkyard and salvage some from rear door on a mkIII  I've been telling myself i should go for months, and now its supacold :facepalm:


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Perkasie Dubs said:


> Yeah not a fan of the wing either. As far as the zender turbos... ive looked at them alot and they still haven't grown on me yet. I will keep lookin and see if anything happens. :laugh:


 I pictured the Turbo's, and the red Corrado has Turbo 2's.


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## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

PAGE 107 mine. 



Sr. Karmann said:


> ya man, smoke, and lot's of it, coming from under the hood and under the dash, keep your fire extinguisher ready :laugh: Nah man, touch them together for the 30 secs and put them back on the battery :thumbup:


 Dude all of that happened it was crazy. Had to have the fire department out here and all that.  

I posted this before I called you Chad, and received you reassuring words that all would be well. Gotta fill 'er up and recheck my mileage since the "reset."


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

pej said:


> PAGE 107 mine.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Eh, maybe you will shave your bay now? :laugh: 

Ya man, lemme kno how the mileage does, what were you getting before?


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## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Eh, maybe you will shave your bay now? :laugh:
> 
> Ya man, lemme kno how the mileage does, what were you getting before?


 You come on out when yours is done and you can feel free to do mine! I'll let ya know what happens with the mileage, I was getting like 200 miles on a tank I think.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

pej said:


> You come on out when yours is done and you can feel free to do mine! I'll let ya know what happens with the mileage, I was getting like 200 miles on a tank I think.


 That's about what I was getting, maybe 225-250... Ya man, I will let you know when I finish mine, definitely not any time soon :banghead:


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## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> That's about what I was getting, maybe 225-250... Ya man, I will let you know when I finish mine, definitely not any time soon :banghead:


 If I ever get my last paycheck mailed to me :banghead:, I can buy a tank of gas and start keeping track of it.


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## eurosportgti (Jan 15, 2003)

question.......can i use g60 motor mounts on a VR? 
will the front, rear and tranny brackets bolt up to a VR block?


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Anyone ever have this happen. 

My G60 has the euro wiring harness for the headlights. I had the drivers side headlight go out on me, but the bulb looked ok, so I took the PS side and plugged it in that side and it lit. So I go out and buy 2 new bulbs. Plug them in, hit the lights... nothing. I then pop my old light back in and... nothing. 
Check all the fuses. Fuses are good. So I pull the light plug itself and check it with the multimeter and its getting no current. Any ideas where the problem could be, and how changing the bulbs could cause that to happen? Or is this soley a matter of coincidence?


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> Anyone ever have this happen.
> 
> My G60 has the euro wiring harness for the headlights. I had the drivers side headlight go out on me, but the bulb looked ok, so I took the PS side and plugged it in that side and it lit. So I go out and buy 2 new bulbs. Plug them in, hit the lights... nothing. I then pop my old light back in and... nothing.
> Check all the fuses. Fuses are good. So I pull the light plug itself and check it with the multimeter and its getting no current. Any ideas where the problem could be, and how changing the bulbs could cause that to happen? Or is this soley a matter of coincidence?


 Maybe the headlight switch. I have seen those go bad.


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## wed3k (Feb 22, 2010)

where should i order the g60 crankshaft pulley bolt and sprocket from? or just goto the dealer?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

wed3k said:


> where should i order the g60 crankshaft pulley bolt and sprocket from? or just goto the dealer?


 http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Engine/225/1


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## quickdraw_kid (Dec 2, 2010)

*Ignition switch causing clicking*

Hey guys, glad to be on VWVortex. 

I have a 1993 Jetta III 2.0. I've had it a month, no idea what the POs did to it exactly but it hasn't been treated well. I successfully replaced the ignition switch yesterday, but doing so was honestly stretching my mechanical abilities. 

Now when I put the key into the 'electronics on' position- right before cranking the starter- I get a rapid clicking from somewhere in the dash, and the odometer display flashes "IN O2". This doesn't happen after shutting off the engine and keeping the radio on for example. Double checked the relays on the steering column and they are all tight. Any ideas about what this could be? Did I **** something up?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

quickdraw_kid said:


> Hey guys, glad to be on VWVortex.
> 
> I have a 1993 Jetta III 2.0. I've had it a month, no idea what the POs did to it exactly but it hasn't been treated well. I successfully replaced the ignition switch yesterday, but doing so was honestly stretching my mechanical abilities.
> 
> Now when I put the key into the 'electronics on' position- right before cranking the starter- I get a rapid clicking from somewhere in the dash, and the odometer display flashes "IN O2". This doesn't happen after shutting off the engine and keeping the radio on for example. Double checked the relays on the steering column and they are all tight. Any ideas about what this could be? Did I **** something up?


 wrong forum dood http://forums.vwvortex.com/forumdisplay.php?3-Golf-III-amp-Jetta-III


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## quickdraw_kid (Dec 2, 2010)

Alright thanks.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

quickdraw_kid said:


> Alright thanks.


 :thumbup:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> wrong forum dood http://forums.vwvortex.com/forumdisplay.php?3-Golf-III-amp-Jetta-III


 
Damn, Chad is ruthless ...........


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Damn, Chad is ruthless ...........


 HAHA, he's gonna wanna buy a Corrado after seeing what the MKIII forums are like :laugh:


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> HAHA, he's gonna wanna buy a Corrado after seeing what the MKIII forums are like :laugh:


 I don't think there is any other forum with people quite like us... ever post a question in the Mk5 forums? I don't even go near there.


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Anyone know what metal is used for the chassis and body parts in a corrado? I'm guessing its steel right? It came up in a debate with a friend and I wasnt really sure what the answer was.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

pej said:


> I don't think there is any other forum with people quite like us...


 we are *the* elite crowd


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> Anyone know what metal is used for the chassis and body parts in a corrado? I'm guessing its steel right? It came up in a debate with a friend and I wasnt really sure what the answer was.


 :banghead: 

steel 



Sr. Karmann said:


> we are *the* *******s


 Fixed 




Also experts, can any of you tell my why every time I log in to this site I realize Adam is that much more of a noob? :wave:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> :banghead:
> 
> steel
> 
> ...


 :laugh:x2....:beer: 

actually x3 :laugh:


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> we are *the* elite crowd


 word


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

ok so work has begun on the corrado again...i started to take the head off to see why iw as leaking oil around the HG and why my coolant levels keep dropping...im assuming a warped head and or bad head gasket...but i reached a problem. How do you get the timing chain off of the cam gears without taking the entire chain off? Yes, i did take out the tensioner bolt already as well....


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

1broknrado said:


> ok so work has begun on the corrado again...i started to take the head off to see why iw as leaking oil around the HG and why my coolant levels keep dropping...im assuming a warped head and or bad head gasket...but i reached a problem. How do you get the timing chain off of the cam gears without taking the entire chain off? Yes, i did take out the tensioner bolt already as well....


 Remove a gear from one of the camshafts :thumbup:


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

oh okay :thumbup: what are the torque specs on it for when i have to reinstall cam gear?


----------



## cstanley19 (Sep 23, 2006)

1broknrado said:


> oh okay :thumbup: what are the torque specs on it for when i have to reinstall cam gear?


 74 ft/lbs :thumbup:


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

sweet. hopefully when i take this head off that the head isnt warped, its just a bad headgasket seal or something :banghead: is the only way to know if its warped by bringing it to a machine shop?


----------



## cstanley19 (Sep 23, 2006)

pretty much ya. Honsetly you can scoop up a clean used head for short money. Bring it to a machine shop and have them do a once over on it. I had mine done for $200 and you don't have to worry about it.


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

i just had that head rebuilt...i think i overheated it because my fan relay wouldnt kick in till around 230 degrees....and i sat in traffic one day with it running that hot for a while....hopefully i didn't warp it.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

1broknrado said:


> sweet. hopefully when i take this head off that the head isnt warped, its just a bad headgasket seal or something :banghead: is the only way to know if its warped by bringing it to a machine shop?


 you can check with a *VERY* straight straight-edge and a gap tool/flashlight helps. PER BENTLEY SPECS!!!


----------



## cstanley19 (Sep 23, 2006)

Does anyone (Kyle) have the schematics for the clutch assembly? Rick noticed last night that behind the brake booster braket where the clutch master cyliner enters the firewall there is a gap and you can see right into the car. I feel like I am missing a fairly large rubber gasket or something. Thanks.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cstanley19 said:


> Does anyone (Kyle) have the schematics for the clutch assembly? Rick noticed last night that behind the brake booster braket where the clutch master cyliner enters the firewall there is a gap and you can see right into the car. I feel like I am missing a fairly large rubber gasket or something. Thanks.


 I will see what I can do for you in a bit. I will bust out ETKA :thumbup:


----------



## pileofredparts (Mar 20, 2009)

cstanley19 said:


> Does anyone (Kyle) have the schematics for the clutch assembly? Rick noticed last night that behind the brake booster braket where the clutch master cyliner enters the firewall there is a gap and you can see right into the car. I feel like I am missing a fairly large rubber gasket or something. Thanks.


 357721410


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

having a hard time here with the rear wheel bearings:

just replaced rear brakes because they were getting low and I could rock the wheel side to side with hands at 9 and 3. replaced the brakes and wheel bearings and tightened everything to spec. I have since driven a little less than 100 miles and the wobble is as bad as before. 

Everything has been properly greased and torqued and yet it still feels like my bearings could be bad (or going bad).

The spindles looked fine when I cleaned them off, and the old bearings didn't look bad (even the races looked true)

any ideas on what's going on?

recently I replaced: balljoints and front swaybar ends


----------



## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

#20











pileofredparts said:


> 357721410


----------



## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

Sounds like they aren't tighten properly.

For the rears, I normally tighten the crap outta of them (wheel won't spin), then back them off to the point where the wheel will spin again. Anything other then that seems to be too loose.

Maybe the races are misaligned -or- shot?

Lloyd




valet said:


> having a hard time here with the rear wheel bearings:
> 
> just replaced rear brakes because they were getting low and I could rock the wheel side to side with hands at 9 and 3. replaced the brakes and wheel bearings and tightened everything to spec. I have since driven a little less than 100 miles and the wobble is as bad as before.
> 
> ...


----------



## mattalex123 (Oct 16, 2010)

My HVAC direction knob wont let me turn it to deforst. It will go about halfway there from the previous knotch(feet i believe) and then it just gives alot of resistnce and wont let me swich the vents to defrost. Very confused, any ideas? could it be a heater ore problem? It's a 93+ by the way.


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

ran into another snag taking my head off the vr6. for some reason the 12pt 13mm regular socket isnt deep enough to catch well on the threads of the ARP nut and i can not loosen one of the nuts holding the head on...what do i do now?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

1broknrado said:


> ran into another snag taking my head off the vr6. for some reason the 12pt 13mm regular socket isnt deep enough to catch well on the threads of the ARP nut and i can not loosen one of the nuts holding the head on...what do i do now?


go buy a deep well socket???????? :sly:


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

mattalex123 said:


> My HVAC direction knob wont let me turn it to deforst. It will go about halfway there from the previous knotch(feet i believe) and then it just gives alot of resistnce and wont let me swich the vents to defrost. Very confused, any ideas? could it be a heater ore problem? It's a 93+ by the way.


The cable may be stretched, the controls may be broke, the box flap for the door may also be busted. 
Pick 2 because its probably a combination. Either way the only way to figure it out is to pull it apart. The entire center of the dash must be removed, as well as cluster trim to get the center bezel out without breaking it. The HVAC controls come out LAST in the center bezel. 

Also if the vacuum lines in your bay aren't hooked up correctly, the solenoid that assists with the fresh air flap probably won't work. 

Refer to your bentley repair manual.


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

i cant find a deep socket 12pt set anywhere!


----------



## Hemingway'sToe (Feb 13, 2009)

1broknrado said:


> i cant find a deep socket 12pt set anywhere!


Got my set at Harbor Freight


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

blah, harborfreight is like an hour and a half away from me


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

1broknrado said:


> blah, harborfreight is like an hour and a half away from me


Sears doesn't have them? You could always order one and have it delivered to your door


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

nope, but thank god my uncle is a mechanic. he had it. im uploading pics of the carnage to my build thread right now. please check them out and comment on what u think problem is why head was leaking so much oil and burning it.


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

not sure why but that head was refreshly rebuild with only about 5k miles on it now and it has gunk layered up on it like WHOA! 

also as you can see the head was leaking oil all over the place...look at the brand new mason tech crackpipe kit...looks black from all of the oil and crud that got on it from the head....not sure why i was burning oil/coolant/running rich....can anyone help me out with the pics i provided? the only nick i found in the head was near the back right of the head where the timing chain cover is...i tryed to get a good picture of it. i dont think that would cause me to leak oil all over the head.



















































































the only fault on the HG i could find


----------



## pileofredparts (Mar 20, 2009)

looks like it got real hot


----------



## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

And for what it's worth the ARP studs should be 1/2" 12pt... not 13mm. (At least mine are)


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

just got back from center auto machine shop. they said the head isnt warped but they want to pressure test it to make sure the head is 100% not the problem. he said that there is WAY too much crap on the valves for only 5k miles on rebuild. could be block needs piston rings. if i have to do that then im ditching this vr6 setup and just going to get what i want. 24v 2.8 bottom end with a r32 head. thoughts opinions?


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

pileofredparts said:


> looks like it got real hot


sarcasm or seriousness? how can you tell it got over heated? there isnt really any markings on the piston walls either.


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Hemingway'sToe said:


> Got my set at Harbor Freight


That store is heaven! 

Simple Bump Stop question...
I ordered the poly set from MJM








The ones I've bought before are one piece. Anyone got a recommendations on whether I should use all 3 pieces or just go with 1 or 2? I'm putting TC class Bilstein struts on my car.


----------



## TravSLC (Jun 10, 2000)

*belt noise?*

So the Corrado is getting older and has developed a whistling noise which seems to be coming from the belt/pulley area. It's a 93 VR6 around 117k miles, changed the belt once. It makes the whistling noise upon start up and gets pronounced around 1500 RPM then grows louder up to about 2500 RPM up but after things get warm it quiets down and eventually goes away. It isn't even terribly loud just an audible whistle. 

Thanks for any help 
Travis


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

So, I'm just curious to see if my ecodes work properly. With just parking lights on, I have all my runners, and my city lights. With headlights on low, of course the outers come on, but my city lights also stay on (which is hard to tell, but they are on). Same thing with the highbeams, pretty much city lights are always on, unless everything is turned off. I'm just curious if that is how they are supposed to work. Thanks.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

TravSLC said:


> So the Corrado is getting older and has developed a whistling noise which seems to be coming from the belt/pulley area. It's a 93 VR6 around 117k miles, changed the belt once. It makes the whistling noise upon start up and gets pronounced around 1500 RPM then grows louder up to about 2500 RPM up but after things get warm it quiets down and eventually goes away. It isn't even terribly loud just an audible whistle.
> 
> Thanks for any help
> Travis


Try replacing other worn parts. Example, if you have replaced the belt, and the sound is still there, have you checked the belt tensioner? Other pullies? You may have other issues but we arent able to tell over the interwebz. 



[email protected] said:


> So, I'm just curious to see if my ecodes work properly. With just parking lights on, I have all my runners, and my city lights. With headlights on low, of course the outers come on, but my city lights also stay on (which is hard to tell, but they are on). Same thing with the highbeams, pretty much city lights are always on, unless everything is turned off. I'm just curious if that is how they are supposed to work. Thanks.


Normal. Carry on.


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Normal. Carry on.


You know how to keep your answers from being too wordy, I'll give ya that. 

-jared


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

pej said:


> You know how to keep your answers from being too wordy, I'll give ya that.
> 
> -jared


 


:wave: Hope you are enjoying your new location!


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

Ok, so this is the clutch I had removed from my C when I purchased it. What would cause this, retarded driver?!
























What was strange about this is when I first got it, the clutch would seem to "pump up" as if there was air in the system. Also strange was the fact that it didn't want to disengage instead of slip. Either way, it's fixed now, just wanted to know what you all thought. :beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> :wave: Hope you are enjoying your new location!


I'm lovin' it here, dood! If I had me a jobby job and some cash I'm sure that would help, but the weather is great and the town has a lot to offer. Tough to nail down a job right before the end of the year.

Best prospect right now is an Service Advisor job at a Buick/GMC dealer... but have no fear my loyalty to VW won't waver! (esp if I'm dealin' with Buciks )


----------



## pileofredparts (Mar 20, 2009)

1broknrado said:


> sarcasm or seriousness? how can you tell it got over heated? there isnt really any markings on the piston walls either.


look at the coolant passages on the head gasket
see how they are bulging and deformed


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

yes i noticed that and thought it was weird as well. so does that mean the HG is bad or there could be other things.


----------



## pileofredparts (Mar 20, 2009)

1broknrado said:


> yes i noticed that and thought it was weird as well. so does that mean the HG is bad or there could be other things.


any number of things can lead to an engine getting hot


----------



## TravSLC (Jun 10, 2000)

DUBZAK said:


> Try replacing other worn parts. Example, if you have replaced the belt, and the sound is still there, have you checked the belt tensioner? Other pullies? You may have other issues but we arent able to tell over the interwebz.
> 
> 
> Normal. Carry on.



Thanks, I figured that was gonna be the suggestion. I guess I just wanted to make sure it wasn't a sure thing that the water pump or Alt. were going out.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

TravSLC said:


> Thanks, I figured that was gonna be the suggestion. I guess I just wanted to make sure it wasn't a sure thing that the water pump or Alt. were going out.


Funny you should say that, because that is exactly what you should be looking at. 

Simple test, remove the belt, start the car, if the sound goes away, any one of the accessories is suspect.


----------



## eurosportgti (Jan 15, 2003)

when using a mk3 k-frame for my vr swap what sway bar do i need? will a oen g60 one work or do i need a mk3 sway bar also?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

eurosportgti said:


> when using a mk3 k-frame for my vr swap what sway bar do i need? will a oen g60 one work or do i need a mk3 sway bar also?


Depends on the control arms being used, are you going PLUS? Or Staying with the G60 Control arms?


----------



## eurosportgti (Jan 15, 2003)

DUBZAK said:


> Depends on the control arms being used, are you going PLUS? Or Staying with the G60 Control arms?


G60 with r32 bushings:beer:


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

I'm going to be reinstalling my SLC emblem, and I was wondering what you guys use to sticky it on there. I have a 3m product that I had kickin' around, but it seems too thick so the emblem would stand-off the car too much. Any ideas? :beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:


----------



## eurosportgti (Jan 15, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> I'm going to be reinstalling my SLC emblem, and I was wondering what you guys use to sticky it on there. I have a 3m product that I had kickin' around, but it seems too thick so the emblem would stand-off the car too much. Any ideas? :beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:


panel bond:thumbup:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

pej said:


> I'm lovin' it here, dood! If I had me a jobby job and some cash I'm sure that would help, but the weather is great and the town has a lot to offer. Tough to nail down a job right before the end of the year.
> 
> Best prospect right now is an Service Advisor job at a Buick/GMC dealer... but have no fear my loyalty to VW won't waver! (esp if I'm dealin' with Buciks )


Do et mang, a job is a job, you can always quit there to do something better :thumbup::thumbup:........:beer:

Oh, and on the job thing, O'dickhead just passed the bill for extended unemployment benefits , oh and the contract for the Navy's new LCS's so a jobby job may be in my near future, and close by OC Maryland for H20 next year :biggrinsanta:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

eurosportgti said:


> when using a mk3 k-frame for my vr swap what sway bar do i need? will a oen g60 one work or do i need a mk3 sway bar also?


I did some digging, If staying with non plus control arms, g60/2.0 you will need the G60 or 2.0 Golf/Jetta Front Sway bar as it is the lengths that are different between those and Plus suspension.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> I did some digging, If staying with non plus control arms, g60/2.0 you will need the G60 or 2.0 Golf/Jetta Front Sway bar as it is the lengths that are different between those and Plus suspension.


and the mounting points on the control arms are different.


----------



## eurosportgti (Jan 15, 2003)

thanks guys


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

cyberstasi said:


> That store is heaven!
> 
> Simple Bump Stop question...
> I ordered the poly set from MJM
> ...


Bah... I got lost in the flurry of other posts. I'm doing the work on my struts this friday, so anyone got an answer for me.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> Bah... I got lost in the flurry of other posts. I'm doing the work on my struts this friday, so anyone got an answer for me.


I prefer stock bumpstops personally... Easy to section out what you don't need when you go low 

I never put in the poly ones in those kits.


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> I prefer stock bumpstops personally... Easy to section out what you don't need when you go low
> 
> I never put in the poly ones in those kits.


I went with TC class Bilstein struts, so I'm going to stay at stock height. So 'low' really isnt an issue. lol. Just need something in case I do bottom out badly.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

If you bottom out a touring class strut you are doing it wrong. They are as high as the Empire state building. 

Stock bumpstops are fine, but I run NO bumpstops ftw.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> If you bottom out a touring class strut you are doing it wrong. They are as high as the Empire state building.
> 
> Stock bumpstops are fine, but I run NO bumpstops ftw.


What Will said... except for the no bumpstop part


----------



## victorg60 (Dec 8, 2010)

*swig door locks*

hello I recently got a 90 corrado g60 from a tow aucton dident come with keys I ordered a used full set, gas cap, hatch, glove box, both doors... my question is how in the heck do you get tumbler's out of the driver/passenger door! is there a link to a thread??? I have my door pannels off and there really isent anyway I can see to get behind there and see whats going on


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## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

Remove the handle. Unbolt the nut holding the tumbler in. Insert key, and pull.

http://wiki.the-corrado.net/re_tumbing_locks.html

Lloyd




victorg60 said:


> hello I recently got a 90 corrado g60 from a tow aucton dident come with keys I ordered a used full set, gas cap, hatch, glove box, both doors... my question is how in the heck do you get tumbler's out of the driver/passenger door! is there a link to a thread??? I have my door pannels off and there really isent anyway I can see to get behind there and see whats going on


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## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

Ok guys, so I have a few corrado parts that I need to sell. I currently have them listed in craigslist, but I don't know if my prices are right. I have a set of na headlights with the mounting hardware, not just the lenses. One lens is shot, the other is good. I also have a set of 12v stock vr cams. I was wondering how much I should ask for these parts? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm also gonna be selling the 17" DTM wheels I have, in favor of stock speedlines. Let me know what you think of these wheels









And is it possible to go "baller" status on speedlines? I wanna dump it.:laugh:


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## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

I also wouldn't mind trading those wheels for something else perhaps? Or maybe a B4/B5 passat moonroof. Whichever is best. thanks


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

Would also like to get my hands on some vr ecode lenses and bezels. I do have some trade parts, check the above reply. Thanks


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Ok guys, so I have a few corrado parts that I need to sell. I currently have them listed in craigslist, but I don't know if my prices are right.


Read here.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...n-is-like-the-Louis-Vuitton-of-the-Rado-world


[email protected] said:


> I have a set of na headlights with the mounting hardware, not just the lenses. One lens is shot, the other is good. I also have a set of 12v stock vr cams. I was wondering how much I should ask for these parts?


$5.00. As stated in thread link above, dont go thinking oem parts that are trashed are worth anything. Stock cams might be worth $30 or $40 on a good day, and heres some advice. Search for previous threads selling the same items, see which ones sold. Asking price should be around the same if condition of items are similar. BAM. Search wins again. :laugh:



[email protected] said:


> Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm also gonna be selling the 17" DTM wheels I have, in favor of stock speedlines. Let me know what you think of these wheels
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Sure, spaced correctly speedlines can be done. Lemme guess, Racelands or Rokkors? 



[email protected] said:


> I also wouldn't mind trading those wheels for something else perhaps? Or maybe a B4/B5 passat moonroof. Whichever is best. thanks


Thats nice. Why not try a WTT thread in the classifieds. WTT means Willing To Trade, you do not need to post a price if trading. 



[email protected] said:


> Would also like to get my hands on some vr ecode lenses and bezels. I do have some trade parts, check the above reply. Thanks


 
This is not the classifieds, this is a HELP thread. SO no Helping you sell stuff...er wait..:laugh:.

eace:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Can I lift/lower the rear spoiler without the use of the switch inside?


----------



## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

Sure. Remove the trim panel on the bottom of the hatch behind the spoiler motor. On the motor there's a manual crank. Pull it out, and turn.


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

lmurray said:


> Sure. Remove the trim panel on the bottom of the hatch behind the spoiler motor. On the motor there's a manual crank. Pull it out, and turn.


It is a bit challenging to lift it manually every time you hit 45 mph though. 

Unless you have midget in your trunk that can do it for you.


----------



## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

Sig worthy....



pej said:


> It is a bit challenging .... Unless you have midget in your trunk that can do it for you.


:beer:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> And is it possible to go "baller" status on speedlines? I wanna dump it.:laugh:


Yes... it is called the limited run Speed lines that were done in 16" and 17" 

IIRC Krazee had a set of 16's for sale


----------



## cstanley19 (Sep 23, 2006)

lmurray said:


> #20


You wouldn't happen to have a part number on #20 would you, or anyone else please. I have searched on 1stvw and a few other sites and can't seem to track one of these down.


----------



## excreations (Jul 31, 2007)

Think g60 may be on its last legs. The motor sounds like it's tapping a bit. Everytime i check to see if it needs oil, everything looks fine. I've changed the oil on the reg, and havnt had to really put oil in inbetween changes, I just feel like that not right? Any ideas. 

Also the oil light keeps flashing and beeping when i rev above 40x rpm, and sit anywhere below it while driving. This won't always happen just once every so often. The car is not driven that often. If you guys could help shed some light on this issue that would be amazing.:biggrinsanta::biggrinsanta:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

excreations said:


> Think g60 may be on its last legs. The motor sounds like it's tapping a bit. Everytime i check to see if it needs oil, everything looks fine. I've changed the oil on the reg, and havnt had to really put oil in inbetween changes, I just feel like that not right? Any ideas.
> 
> Also the oil light keeps flashing and beeping when i rev above 40x rpm, and sit anywhere below it while driving. This won't always happen just once every so often. The car is not driven that often. If you guys could help shed some light on this issue that would be amazing.:biggrinsanta::biggrinsanta:


Sounds almost like your oil pump is letting go.


----------



## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

#20 is.... 357721410



pileofredparts said:


> 357721410


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

excreations said:


> Think g60 may be on its last legs. The motor sounds like it's tapping a bit. Everytime i check to see if it needs oil, everything looks fine. I've changed the oil on the reg, and havnt had to really put oil in inbetween changes, I just feel like that not right? Any ideas.
> 
> Also the oil light keeps flashing and beeping when i rev above 40x rpm, and sit anywhere below it while driving. This won't always happen just once every so often. The car is not driven that often. If you guys could help shed some light on this issue that would be amazing.:biggrinsanta::biggrinsanta:


Similar thing happened to me when a shop put 10W30 oil in my Corrado instead of the 15W40 I asked for. But I agree with The Burn that it sounds like the oil pump may be going on ya.


----------



## 2925 (Dec 11, 2007)

I'm not the best with the search, but what I have found didn't exactly answer my questions and I'm not smart enough to figure out offset calculators.

I'm looking at some rota rb's in 15x8 for my g60 and they come in a few different offsets, I've got stock suspension so I was hoping someone could give me an idea of the preferred offset and size of tires. I was hoping to run something bigger than 195 though.


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

lmurray said:


> Sig worthy....
> 
> 
> 
> :beer:


:thumbup:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

pej said:


> It is a bit challenging to lift it manually every time you hit 45 mph though.
> 
> Unless you have midget in your trunk that can do it for you.



^^:what: ... :laugh: 

For a reason I cannot turn the ignition on but I want to test fit my *freshly painted SpoonFedTuning rear wing* so... 




lmurray said:


> Sure. Remove the trim panel on the bottom of the hatch behind the spoiler motor. On the motor there's a manual crank. Pull it out, and turn.


Thanks man, I'll give it a try  I see a black plastic "T"-shape piece there, that's have to be the manual crank right?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^:what: ... :laugh:
> 
> For a reason I cannot turn the ignition on but I want to test fit my *freshly painted SpoonFedTuning rear wing* so...
> 
> ...


Ya man, dead center of the motor, pull it straight out and turn :biggrinsanta: Can't wait to see installed pics :snowcool:

*MERRY CHRISTMAS ALL!!!!!!*


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Ya man, dead center of the motor, pull it straight out and turn :biggrinsanta: Can't wait to see installed pics :snowcool:
> 
> *MERRY CHRISTMAS ALL!!!!!!*


Thx man, gonna give it a try tomorrow :thumbup:
Pics of the wing installed on Monday and Merry Xmas to you too  :beer:


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Ya man, dead center of the motor, pull it straight out and turn


Click for larger pics:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Thx man, gonna give it a try tomorrow :thumbup:
> Pics of the wing installed on Monday and Merry Xmas to you too  :beer:


You're not a true Corrado fan if you don't werk on Christmas :laugh:



cyberstasi said:


> Click for larger pics:


PARFECT!!! :sly:.........:laugh:


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> You're not a true Corrado fan if you don't werk on Christmas :laugh:



As you can see from the pictures, I was spending my christmas holiday working on my car. lol Saw this post and thought... well while I'm in my garage. heh
Probably should go ahead and take pics of ALL my spare parts. :laugh:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

cyberstasi said:


> As you can see from the pictures, I was spending my christmas holiday working on my car. lol Saw this post and thought... well while I'm in my garage. heh
> Probably should go ahead and take pics of ALL my spare parts. :laugh:





cyberstasi said:


> Click for larger pics:


^^Thanks man, appreciate it  :beer: :beer: :beer:




Sr. Karmann said:


> You're not a true Corrado fan if you don't werk on Christmas :laugh:
> 
> I'm a fan alright...but I'm also married :laugh:
> 
> PARFECT!!! :sly:.........:laugh:


----------



## War_Dog (Nov 29, 2010)

*I hate this thread*

I'm a NOOB to this site, but nit a moron and have been on many other forums, and it is extremely difficult to search the forum for anything, due to this thread. I don't want to ask the same question that has been asked a 100 x before. Just refer the idiots to the search button or answer their questions in a standard forum so the rest of us can refer to them.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

War_Dog said:


> I'm a NOOB to this site, but nit a moron and have been on many other forums, and it is extremely difficult to search the forum for anything, due to this thread. I don't want to ask the same question that has been asked a 100 x before. Just refer the idiots to the search button or answer their questions in a standard forum so the rest of us can refer to them.


Actually the search works really well on this site. I don't see why people have so much trouble with the search function.

And this thread is to cover very basic random questions. I think you are missing the point of it. 

but by all means feel free to post a question in the forums. I'm sure someone will post 
A) information pertaining to your question
B) a link to information
C) a suggestion to use the search to find the information yourself
D) all of the above.

Just think of this thread as an additional resource. It doesn't clutter the forum with sunroof threads  we all know we don't need any more of those.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> Similar thing happened to me when a shop put 10W30 oil in my Corrado instead of the 15W40 I asked for. But I agree with The Burn that it sounds like the oil pump may be going on ya.


The only reason I don't think it is a worn sensor on that is due to the tapping sound he is talking about. Otherwise I would say bad oil sensor or wrong oil.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

War_Dog said:


> I'm a NOOB to this site, but nit a moron and have been on many other forums, and it is extremely difficult to search the forum for anything, due to this thread. I don't want to ask the same question that has been asked a 100 x before. Just refer the idiots to the search button or answer their questions in a standard forum so the rest of us can refer to them.


Also this thread hasn't been around very long. and most topics on these cars have been covered. If not here then in he engine technical forums. are you sure you aren't searching the correct things? You do know you can search within threads and in thread titles only right?

Google is also a great resource for searching this site.


----------



## cstanley19 (Sep 23, 2006)

lmurray said:


> #20 is.... 357721410


Thanks bud, and as you can see why I asked in the new guy forum cuz even though I'm not new I am just an idiot and cant read!


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

Yeah guys, so I was thinkin' about putting in a center console/armrest in the C. Is that possible, I couldn't find anything in search. Let me know what ya think. 93+ tan interior also.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Yeah guys, so I was thinkin' about putting in a center console/armrest in the C. Is that possible, I couldn't find anything in search. Let me know what ya think. 93+ tan interior also.


Has been covered... http://forums.vwvortex.com/search.php?searchid=5278711


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

I might be in the market for some upgraded pulleys for my VR6. Does anybody here have any recommendations? I really like the idea behind the Gruven set, but also the Neuspeed ones also seem very nice and a good bit cheaper.


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

I can't seem to get that link to work, any ideas yet?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

iAco said:


> I might be in the market for some upgraded pulleys for my VR6. Does anybody here have any recommendations? I really like the idea behind the Gruven set, but also the Neuspeed ones also seem very nice and a good bit cheaper.


I am running the Aluminum set of harmonic balanced crank, water pump, power steering, and alternator pullies from EPP with the Gruven Tensioner pulley for a 5 pulley set. I would run the Gruven PS pulley as it is underdrive and they do have a point: The only one safely underdriven should be the PS. 

The Neuspeed pulley set remids me of the Unorthodox Racing garbage from the 90's and 00's. Negatory good buddy. 



[email protected] said:


> I can't seem to get that link to work, any ideas yet?


Search harder. There was a thread last year covering that topic using a B5 Passat armrest, but you fail to realize if you put an armrest in and hack up your trim, you will no longer be able to fold the rear seat forward unless you have a Full Bench from a car in Europe or unscrew the awesome OEM REAR ARMREST....you know, the armrest where your first aid kit should be  .

Armrests are for pu$$ies who drive to slow to keep one hand on the shifter and the other on the wheel anyway.  Don't be that guy, and don't be lazy. Actually press the search button before asking. 
:beer::beer::beer::beer:


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

DUBZAK said:


> I am running the Aluminum set of harmonic balanced crank, water pump, power steering, and alternator pullies from EPP with the Gruven Tensioner pulley for a 5 pulley set. I would run the Gruven PS pulley as it is underdrive and they do have a point: The only one safely underdriven should be the PS.
> 
> The Neuspeed pulley set remids me of the Unorthodox Racing garbage from the 90's and 00's. Negatory good buddy.
> :


Those EPP ones look real nice as well. Aren't the essentially the same thing as the Gruven set minus the under driver power steering pulley and the tensioner belt pulley?


----------



## Swink (Aug 15, 2003)

DUBZAK said:


> Armrests are for pu$$ies who drive to slow to keep one hand on the shifter and the other on the wheel anyway.  Don't be that guy, and don't be lazy.


My B5 has an armrest. I've yet to actually put it down unless I pull my sunglasses out of it. :laugh:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

iAco said:


> Those EPP ones look real nice as well. Aren't the essentially the same thing as the Gruven set minus the under driver power steering pulley and the tensioner belt pulley?


I was a gineau pig for EPP and these pullies.  

They arent the same at all, there are weight differences between them, and Gruven says the Crank does not need to be Harmonic. I however do not agree with that particular Gruven statement. Making them 1 and 1 in my book. 

Swink, you cant "get your lean on" with it folded up like that. lol


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Search harder. There was a thread last year covering that topic using a B5 Passat armrest, but you fail to realize if you put an armrest in and hack up your trim, you will no longer be able to fold the rear seat forward unless you have a Full Bench from a car in Europe or unscrew the awesome OEM REAR ARMREST....you know, the armrest where your first aid kit should be  .
> 
> Armrests are for pu$$ies who drive to slow to keep one hand on the shifter and the other on the wheel anyway.  Don't be that guy, and don't be lazy. Actually press the search button before asking.
> :beer::beer::beer::beer:


Why the hell would you want to put the rear seat down in a corrado? You trying to haul flat pack furnature with it? Either leave it up or remove the sucker completely. lol And dont bust on that classy OEM rear armrest... thats total 90s hotness right there. heh
Front Armrests are also helpful to give your arm something steady to hold your drink with since our cars dont have cup holders. Ya know... give that cup holding hand a bit of extra support so you dont pull a muscle while cruising :laugh:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Armrests are for pu$$ies who drive to slow to keep one hand on the shifter and the other on the wheel anyway.  Don't be that guy, and don't be lazy. Actually press the search button before asking.
> :beer::beer::beer::beer:


Seriously... Everyone asks why I have the armrest up in my audi... It was nice at first when I got the car but then got in the way.


----------



## bulfrog3232 (Jul 12, 2008)

Do Mk3 jetta tail lights fit on a corrado?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

bulfrog3232 said:


> Do Mk3 jetta tail lights fit on a corrado?


I hope you are joking. 

In case you aren't, short answer. No. 

Long answer, yes! If you like cutting and welding the rear corners of a Jetta onto the Corrado. You would still have a hole on one of the inners for the lock.


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

DUBZAK said:


> I was a gineau pig for EPP and these pullies.
> 
> They arent the same at all, there are weight differences between them, and Gruven says the Crank does not need to be Harmonic. I however do not agree with that particular Gruven statement. Making them 1 and 1 in my book.


Thanks. Have you noticed any gains from the lightened pulleys? I'll most likely order this up soon with some other European goods from Christian.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Hard to say, due to the fact I installed them on the bottom end rebuild. I will say the way my motor revs out, the lightened flywheel and pulleys are a compliment to the balanced bottom end.


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

DUBZAK said:


> Hard to say, due to the fact I installed them on the bottom end rebuild. I will say the way my motor revs out, the lightened flywheel and pulleys are a compliment to the balanced bottom end.


Good to know. I plan on getting those pulleys with a new lightened flywheel. Should be a pretty peppy motor. :beer:


----------



## reborndub (Jun 18, 2009)

while trying to do some research i usually go to the corrado-club.com site. well it looks like that has been decomissioned. so what happened to all the useful info there? is it gone forever?
i was just on it not that long ago:banghead:


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## cstanley19 (Sep 23, 2006)

It's all kickin around here still, you just have to search.. I know everyone says it but it's true. I find my answers quite easily with the search and this is mainly because the guys would tell me to go seach! haha you just have to find your way around with the new format.


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

Hey if any of you guys want a killer deal on a VW timing belt and tensioner for you rG60, ECS is blowin them out for only FIVE BUCKS!!! http://www.ecstuning.com/ES403610/

On an unrelated note: Who has some good ideas for front license plate mounting my Corrado? Texas requires front plates unfortunately... :thumbdown:


----------



## bulfrog3232 (Jul 12, 2008)

lets try and make this quick and painless:laugh:
my g60 pushes -10psi at idle and when i accelerate the boost is just above atmosphere, about 1psi.
do i have a major boost leak or is the charger blown, and where are common places where boost escapes and how can i find them. 
thankseace:


----------



## eurosportgti (Jan 15, 2003)

pej said:


> Hey if any of you guys want a killer deal on a VW timing belt and tensioner for you rG60, ECS is blowin them out for only FIVE BUCKS!!! http://www.ecstuning.com/ES403610/
> 
> On an unrelated note: Who has some good ideas for front license plate mounting my Corrado? Texas requires front plates unfortunately... :thumbdown:


So does CT:banghead: Doesnt mean u have to have one tho:laugh:

im planning to suction cup mine to the upper pass side ( if i use it at all)


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

eurosportgti said:


> So does CT:banghead: Doesnt mean u have to have one tho:laugh:
> 
> im planning to suction cup mine to the upper pass side ( if i use it at all)


I don't want to chance it though. Upper passenger side on the windshield?


----------



## eurosportgti (Jan 15, 2003)

pej said:


> I don't want to chance it though. Upper passenger side on the windshield?


yessssir


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

bulfrog3232 said:


> lets try and make this quick and painless:laugh:
> my g60 pushes -10psi at idle and when i accelerate the boost is just above atmosphere, about 1psi.
> do i have a major boost leak or is the charger blown, and where are common places where boost escapes and how can i find them.
> thankseace:


FYI... 1 atm = 14.6956 psi. 

If you'd like more conversions... 1 atm = 14.6956 psi = 1.01327 bar = 101,325 Pascals = 760 mm Hg = 760 torr. :laugh:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

eurosportgti said:


> yessssir


x2 :thumbup: 
_"Officer, it just now fell off, first thing I'm gonna do as soon as I get home is put it back on the front bumper" :laugh:_


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

cyberstasi said:


> FYI... 1 atm = 14.6956 psi.
> 
> If you'd like more conversions... 1 atm = 14.6956 psi = 1.01327 bar = 101,325 Pascals = 760 mm Hg = 760 torr. :laugh:


You just blew my mind.


----------



## captain aimless (Sep 24, 2009)

i have a 93 slc and it has been overheating when i get into town, runs around 160 as long as my speed is 60 or above but once i slow down to town speeds the temp starts to rise, the oil temp gets way higher than the water temp. if i just start it and let it run in my shop it is slow to heat up and will stay around 190 mabe a bit higher but the fans do seem to cycle, any ideas as to what it could be would be much appreciated


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

Sounds normal, oil temps will/should be higher than water. If your water temps hit 230, I'd start checking some things. But these cars "run" hot, cuz they are HOT!!! Not the real reason, but sounds good.


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## reborndub (Jun 18, 2009)

cstanley19 said:


> It's all kickin around here still, you just have to search.. I know everyone says it but it's true. I find my answers quite easily with the search and this is mainly because the guys would tell me to go seach! haha you just have to find your way around with the new format.


the site is dead, so all the links are dead. if you search here and click link. "page cannot be displayed"


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## reborndub (Jun 18, 2009)

http://www.corrado-club.com/

http://www.corrado-club.com/aktiv/


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

reborndub said:


> the site is dead, so all the links are dead. if you search here and click link. "page cannot be displayed"


It has been like that for quite some time. Supposedly they are switching servers and it will be back up later- but I am not hopeful.


----------



## aerolounge (Apr 27, 2002)

I just got a Corrado a month ago, and I am currently working thru its list of problems... One of the main ones is the infamous door handle issue- I have what I will assume is a upgraded striker kit for both doors since they are now steel.

I flew thru the driver side no problem, but when I finished up and installed the passenger side, I closed the door to try it, and now my door will not open from the inside or the outside!! I don't have the door card on so I can look inside , and the bit that the striker hits on the inside of the door seems to have broken, but now it won't open from the interior door handle either?? Lock or unlock has no effect (90% sure), and as I can tell latch mechanism seems to be moving, but the obvisiouly not the bit that latches the pin to hold the door closed? I performed a search that lead to a similar situation with no final solution, and this site is my last effort of a simple solution before a cut away at the door to get a better look...

I am mechanically inclinced, and the car is a 92' VR6


----------



## edocdog (Sep 17, 2010)

Need help identifying the "N" plug from the fuse box. This is for a/c, but I don't know which wire grouping it goes with. Is it the fan wire harness? I hope to buy 1 to finish up the ac.

I have a 90 g60 with a vr swap. I'm trying to finish up a project car that I bought in September and not having a/c in Florida is just plain stupid.

Did I search in the forum? Yes. 

Thanks for ur time.


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

captain aimless said:


> My car seems to be running hot.


 Water temp under 230 & fluctuating is normal. 
Oil temp between 200 and 230 is normal as well. There is a thread somewhere where an unnamed expert is quoted as saying that an oil temp of 250 is not outrageous on a hot day. 

As said above. these VR6 engines run hot. Thats how they get gas mileage. 

One personal experience I have is that there is only 1 oil that my 1993 VR6 is happy with. 
That is Mobile 1 10W40. That may not help or hurt but its what I've noticed.


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

pej said:


> cyberstasi said:
> 
> 
> > FYI... 1 atm = 14.6956 psi.
> ...


I didnt get all the way through 3rd grade for nothing! :laugh:


Question for those of you with ETKA or some other fancy stuff... can anyone get me the wiring diagrams for the rear lights on a G60? ( I assume they are the same as the VR)


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> I didnt get all the way through 3rd grade for nothing! :laugh:
> 
> 
> Question for those of you with ETKA or some other fancy stuff... can anyone get me the wiring diagrams for the rear lights on a G60? ( I assume they are the same as the VR)


That is in the bentley not etka. Why don't you have a copy of the bentley yet?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

aerolounge said:


> I just got a Corrado a month ago, and I am currently working thru its list of problems... One of the main ones is the infamous door handle issue- I have what I will assume is a upgraded striker kit for both doors since they are now steel.
> 
> I flew thru the driver side no problem, but when I finished up and installed the passenger side, I closed the door to try it, and now my door will not open from the inside or the outside!! I don't have the door card on so I can look inside , and the bit that the striker hits on the inside of the door seems to have broken, but now it won't open from the interior door handle either?? Lock or unlock has no effect (90% sure), and as I can tell latch mechanism seems to be moving, but the obvisiouly not the bit that latches the pin to hold the door closed? I performed a search that lead to a similar situation with no final solution, and this site is my last effort of a simple solution before a cut away at the door to get a better look...
> 
> I am mechanically inclinced, and the car is a 92' VR6


 ^^ Bump for this...tricky one :sly: Seriously never seen that happen before


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> That is in the bentley not etka. Why don't you have a copy of the bentley yet?


 I have one... its out on loan at the moment and too far away for me to take a drive over and take a peek at it. Was hoping someone here could shoot me the single page I need.


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## crisvr6 (Jun 14, 2007)

cyberstasi said:


> I have one... its out on loan at the moment and too far away for me to take a drive over and take a peek at it. Was hoping someone here could shoot me the single page I need.


 http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html 

this ?


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

crisvr6 said:


> http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html
> 
> this ?


 :thumbup: Thanks. Have a :beer: on me sometime.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

aerolounge said:


> I just got a Corrado a month ago, and I am currently working thru its list of problems... One of the main ones is the infamous door handle issue- I have what I will assume is a upgraded striker kit for both doors since they are now steel.
> 
> I flew thru the driver side no problem, but when I finished up and installed the passenger side, I closed the door to try it, and now my door will not open from the inside or the outside!! I don't have the door card on so I can look inside , and the bit that the striker hits on the inside of the door seems to have broken, but now it won't open from the interior door handle either?? Lock or unlock has no effect (90% sure), and as I can tell latch mechanism seems to be moving, but the obvisiouly not the bit that latches the pin to hold the door closed? I performed a search that lead to a similar situation with no final solution, and this site is my last effort of a simple solution before a cut away at the door to get a better look...
> 
> I am mechanically inclined, and the car is a 92' VR6


 I have only seen this once before, and I am not certain, but cutting the inside of the door open to attempt at manually opening the latch is what I would do if faced with the decision.


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## crisvr6 (Jun 14, 2007)

to the experts, gives there a door handle from other vw`s that fit on the corrado ? 
since the new one is not longer available at the dealer.. 
i know the one from the passat but you have to change it a bit.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> I have only seen this once before, and I am not certain, but cutting the inside of the door open to attempt at manually opening the latch is what I would do if faced with the decision.





crisvr6 said:


> to the experts, gives there a door handle from other vw`s that fit on the corrado ?
> since the new one is not longer available at the dealer..
> i know the one from the passat but you have to change it a bit.


 It's been awhile since being in the interior of my door, but sounds kind of ludicrous to have to cut the door. *Is the door locked?* You can probably get a screwdriver if not your hand in there and push the door striker up or down, right, the part that the handle striker hits. Wish I had a pic, but can clearly see when the handle is out.


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## crisvr6 (Jun 14, 2007)

Sr. Karmann said:


> It's been awhile since being in the interior of my door, but sounds kind of ludicrous to have to cut the door. *Is the door locked?* You can probably get a screwdriver if not your hand in there and push the door striker up or down, right, the part that the handle striker hits. Wish I had a pic, but can clearly see when the handle is out.


 you mean this for the other guy ?


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## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

crisvr6 said:


> to the experts, gives there a door handle from other vw`s that fit on the corrado ?
> since the new one is not longer available at the dealer..
> i know the one from the passat but you have to change it a bit.


 I'm pretty sure the Corrado handle is a unique one, and there's no other handle that will be a direct replacement. Check this: http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Body/76


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

pej said:


> I'm pretty sure the Corrado handle is a unique one, and there's no other handle that will be a direct replacement. Check this: http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Body/76


 Audi door handles fit pretty well....  with a little cut and weld that is. 

Sorry Cris, VW screwed us on this one, the Passat handles are the only ones even close, and yes a whole bunch of crap needs to be modified to make them work.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

As a door handle the Passat 35i is the same. I have one now in front of me...just the striker is different but I'm sure you can swap the one from the Corrado there. 
And I know they sell replacement strikers (ebay link Mikki posted in another thread ), steel ones, that are used to convert Passat door handles to work on a Corrado


----------



## bulfrog3232 (Jul 12, 2008)

> lets try and make this quick and painless
> my g60 pushes -10psi at idle and when i accelerate the boost is just above 1psi.
> do i have a major boost leak or is the charger blown, and where are common places where boost escapes and how can i find them.
> thanks


 there, i took out atmosphere:laugh: 
but any ideas to what my issue is?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

crisvr6 said:


> you mean this for the other guy ?


 exactly :thumbup:


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

bulfrog3232 said:


> lets try and make this quick and painless:laugh:
> my g60 pushes -10psi at idle and when i accelerate the boost is about 1psi.
> do i have a major boost leak or is the charger blown, and where are common places where boost escapes and how can i find them.
> thankseace:





bulfrog3232 said:


> there, i took out atmosphere:laugh:
> but any ideas to what my issue is?


 I guess the first logical question is where are you getting that information? Because I seriously doubt you're boost pressure is putting out -10 psi... thats impossible. 0psi = total vacuum. remember normal atmo is 14.7, thats what we consider '0' on a car, when technically it isnt. 10Psi of boost on a car is technically 24.7 psi of air pressure in the system. When people give boost PSI numbers thats 'technically' PSI above normal atmo. For the sake of similicity though when we talk about boost we talk about the amount 'above' normal air pressure. As with most things reality and the way things are explained for ease of understanding are quite different. 

So if your reading is correct and your charger is removing 10psi of presure... then you're engine is only getting 4.7 total psi of air pressure. (14.7psi of atmo - 10 psi from charger = 4.7 total psi) If you disconnected the air intake hose at the throttle body you'd be getting normal atmo (14.7 psi, but what people would consider 0psi boost) Which leads me to believe the reading may be faulty. 

That being said however... I dont know how the ECM system measures things and chooses to display them through the MFA options... so I'm not sure if they are 'compatible' with true scientific scales. However... -10 to 1 is 11psi difference, which is about the max that a stock G60 can push. So the error may just be in the sensor taking the readings. If you want to look for leaks, really its as simple as following the piping hoses in the car and seeing if you see any cracks. You can also take a small spray bottle of water and put a mist over where hoses connect to see if there are any major leaks when the charger is spinning at a higher RPM. 
Beyond that... i'd wait for one of the experts to chime in on it.


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Audi door handles fit pretty well....  with a little cut and weld that is.
> 
> Sorry Cris, VW screwed us on this one, the Passat handles are the only ones even close, and yes a whole bunch of crap needs to be modified to make them work.


 It is pretty odd that for the sake of keeping costs down, i.e engineering, tooling, and manufacturing they couldn't find a way to share handles with another model. Then again the Corrado itself is a rolling oddity.


----------



## aerolounge (Apr 27, 2002)

crisvr6 said:


> you mean this for the other guy ?


 
And I was just about to give up on the thread... Thanks Boys:beer: 

This picture shows of what I believe broke, unfortunatlly I am not able to remove the handle again with the door still closed, and as far as digging in there with my hand or a screw driver I can do that and have done that, but for some reason when I pull the interior handle it does not open the door but it does move the mechanisim normally? 

My thoughts: 

The door acts like it is locked... (meaning that the interior handle feels light) but I have tried pulling the door pin up, unlocking and locking the doors with the keys (both handles and the trunk) and the driver door functions perfect as does the pin for the passenger door. If that is jammed how can I over ride it? 

Also it could be different from my 96' A4 but when the doors would lock if you used the interior handle to attempt to open the door it would unlock the door and then allow you to open the door. Do Corrado doors not do the same? 

Also does that piece that broke have anything to do with motion of the interior handle? Meaning does that need to move inconjuction with anything to unlock the door, or open the door? 

Plans: 

Tomorrow evening I am taking the opening mechanisim out of the driver side door to figure out how it works to get some better ideas. Plus I might attempt to over ride the lock by hooking the wires up to my variable powersupply to force it to unlock rather then rely on any other means. 

To the person that helps me solve this issue I have access to a waterjet, CNC Mill, and Lathe- If you want a custom part/s I will help you out...


----------



## alexcast (Oct 27, 2008)

*RMP pointer clicks at 1k rpm*

Well this is a good one for the experts, 

After a wghile of normal driving my 2008 Audi A3 DSG, the RPM clicks each time it reaches 1k rpm, it sound like a relay or something, i went to audi and after a week with the car they couldn't repeat the click (well they say that). 

What would you think it mught be? 

Thanks


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

alexcast said:


> Well this is a good one for the experts,
> 
> After a wghile of normal driving my 2008 Audi A3 DSG, the RPM clicks each time it reaches 1k rpm, it sound like a relay or something, i went to audi and after a week with the car they couldn't repeat the click (well they say that).
> 
> ...


 This is in the Corrado forum :facepalm:. Try the a3 or mk5 gti forum to answer your question.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

aerolounge said:


> Tomorrow evening I am taking the opening mechanisim out of the driver side door to figure out how it works to get some better ideas. Plus I might attempt to over ride the lock by hooking the wires up to my variable powersupply to force it to unlock rather then rely on any other means.


 Perfect place to start and also why I asked if it was locked. IIRC, there are 2 tabs, top one shown above the striker. I believe up and down on that part locks and unlocks the door, like I said, it's been awhile...


----------



## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

Not sure. Part it, and use the money to buy a Corrado. 

 



alexcast said:


> Well this is a good one for the experts,
> 
> After a wghile of normal driving my 2008 Audi A3 DSG, the RPM clicks each time it reaches 1k rpm, it sound like a relay or something, i went to audi and after a week with the car they couldn't repeat the click (well they say that).
> 
> ...


----------



## bulfrog3232 (Jul 12, 2008)

Thanks for the input :beer: 
i guess i should explain that i set up a Harbor freight boost gauge that was set up to the FPR vacuum line. 
When the car sat at idle the gauge was reading -10 psi and as the motor was being revved the gauge needle was just above 1 psi. 
I also tested the boost pressure through the MFA today and got the same readings i was getting on the gauge. im going to look for boost leaks tommorow, but any other ideas? 


> Originally Posted by cyberstasi
> I guess the first logical question is where are you getting that information? Because I seriously doubt you're boost pressure is putting out -10 psi... thats impossible. 0psi = total vacuum. remember normal atmo is 14.7, thats what we consider '0' on a car, when technically it isnt. 10Psi of boost on a car is technically 24.7 psi of air pressure in the system. When people give boost PSI numbers thats 'technically' PSI above normal atmo. For the sake of similicity though when we talk about boost we talk about the amount 'above' normal air pressure. As with most things reality and the way things are explained for ease of understanding are quite different.
> 
> So if your reading is correct and your charger is removing 10psi of presure... then you're engine is only getting 4.7 total psi of air pressure. (14.7psi of atmo - 10 psi from charger = 4.7 total psi) If you disconnected the air intake hose at the throttle body you'd be getting normal atmo (14.7 psi, but what people would consider 0psi boost) Which leads me to believe the reading may be faulty.
> ...


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

bulfrog3232 said:


> Thanks for the input :beer:
> i guess i should explain that i set up a Harbor freight boost gauge that was set up to the FPR vacuum line.
> When the car sat at idle the gauge was reading -10 psi and as the motor was being revved the gauge needle was just above 1 psi.
> I also tested the boost pressure through the MFA today and got the same readings i was getting on the gauge. im going to look for boost leaks tommorow, but any other ideas?


 Shouldn't it measure vac. at idle though?  
Check every hose connection to and from the IC...


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Few questions: 

1) I installed new o-rings on my injectors today and I noticed that one of the plastic cap on top of the injector nozzles is cracked, thus not "cliping" tightly on the injector (clips but not tight)...I already put the injectors in, however will this cause any problems to the fuel delivery/leaks etc.? 

2) what does the fuel pump after-run pressure switch does exactly? Mine is there (connected to the fuel line from the fuel rail) but its missing the electrical connection from the other side...It was like that when I bought the car/engine  

3) What role do the 2 mountings brackets that join together the cam cover and intake manifold play? Bentley says "for idle stabilizer valve" but I don't see how it connects or has to do anything with the ISV and also states that "mounting must be free of stress" - what does that mean? 
One bracket has the fan after-run thermo switch but does this has to be connected to somewhere else (ie wiring)??? Mine is just bolted on the bracket and nothing else goes to it... 

4) Where can I find a "wiring guide" as per Bentley (p.24-30-1), ie the wiring to the injectors??? 
_edit: nevermind #4, I found one _


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## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Few questions:
> 
> 1) I installed new o-rings on my injectors today and I noticed that one of the plastic cap on top of the injector nozzles is cracked, thus not "cliping" tightly on the injector (clips but not tight)...I already put the injectors in, however will this cause any problems to the fuel delivery/leaks etc.?
> 
> ...


 I can help with 2 and 3... 

2) When the car is shut off the fuel pump will still circulate fuel for a few minutes to cool itself off. Probably not entirely necessary but I'm sure it prolongs pump life. 

3) The ISV does mount there, it lies horizontally, parallel with the valve cover. There is a rubber mount that slides onto the bracket and around the ISV to keep it from sitting on the valve cover. The after-run switch has a wire to it and that's it. The sensor just mounts on there and nothing else goes to it (it reads the under-hood temp when you shut the car off).


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

pej said:


> I can help with 2 and 3...
> 
> 2) When the car is shut off the fuel pump will still circulate fuel for a few minutes to cool itself off. Probably not entirely necessary but I'm sure it prolongs pump life.
> 
> 3) The ISV does mount there, it lies horizontally, parallel with the valve cover. There is a rubber mount that slides onto the bracket and around the ISV to keep it from sitting on the valve cover. The after-run switch has a wire to it and that's it. The sensor just mounts on there and nothing else goes to it (it reads the under-hood temp when you shut the car off).


 
2) Well mine does not have its wiring part and never did from when I bought the engine  
I know that in some cases that switch is deleted, like for example when the BBM alloy billet fuel rail is fitted so I guess it doesn't mind... 

3) Yep mine is sitting on the valve cover :laugh: 
Hmm, looking at the Bentley I think I'm missing the support tab (point 25), the one that joins together the bracket and the rubber mount of the ISV...anyone has one for sale, lol? 

Pic of the fan after-run thermo switch? Where is its wire? 

Damn the G60, lots of switches 'n stuff, hahaha :laugh: 

Think I'm taking everything off again. I have to fix the injector wiring harness anyway...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

See what a hassle g60's are? :laugh::laugh::laugh: 

Just go standalone on the car and re-do the harness.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> See what a hassle g60's are? :laugh::laugh::laugh:
> 
> Just go standalone on the car and re-do the harness.


 I haven't really looked into it, but will MS run the pump to prevent vapor lock?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

RedYellowWhite said:


> ...Pic of the fan after-run thermo switch? Where is its wire?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


>


 IIRC is a brown wire in the same harness as the ISV harness, was located there on mine, funny thing tho, I removed it and the fan still ran if it was hot, weird 

May help to post some pics Nick  

Back out to wet sand between the terrential downpours


----------



## The Skeptic (May 31, 2000)

*Grill: g60 to VR*

Hi Guys: 

I will soon inherit a 1990 g60. pretty much stock, and cared for. 

I'd like to install a corrado VR6 grill in place of the stock g60 grill. 

I have pretty good skills, although i'm not a VW tech. 

Is this a straight bolt in, or do i have to mod or fab anything to make this work?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Haynie said:


> Hi Guys:
> 
> I will soon inherit a 1990 g60. pretty much stock, and cared for.
> 
> ...


 IIRC you just have to cut a tab off of the grill


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## 20thAEGti1009 (Jan 28, 2005)

I just picked up a 1990 lysholmed g60 corrado. The car runs amazing but i am having some electrical problems with it and i am in desperate need of some help since I am not use to these older cars. 

The problems i am having is that nothing on the cauge cluster works. Speedo cable is broken also but that is easily fixed. But nothing electrical on the cluster works. I have tried swapping out the cluster with a known working cluster but still nothing. 

Also the blinkers will not work and i have tried to swap the relay with a known working relay and nothing changes. But the light in the hazard switch will come on and stay on when you press the button. Possibly a bad hazard switch? 

The heater blower motor will not function correctly either. I have power going to the switch for the heater but i cannot get the blower motor to work. Possibly a bad blower motor or is there something else i should look for? 

Please someone point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

20thAEGti1009 said:


> I just picked up a 1990 lysholmed g60 corrado. The car runs amazing but i am having some electrical problems with it and i am in desperate need of some help since I am not use to these older cars.
> 
> The problems i am having is that nothing on the cauge cluster works. Speedo cable is broken also but that is easily fixed. But nothing electrical on the cluster works. I have tried swapping out the cluster with a known working cluster but still nothing.
> 
> ...


 Sounds like you need a Bentley and a test light 

and this link... http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html 

Isolate circuit issues one at a time


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## 20thAEGti1009 (Jan 28, 2005)

I have been using that link and my multi meeter all morning with no luck.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

20thAEGti1009 said:


> I have been using that link and my multi meeter all morning with no luck.


 and a Bentley?


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## 20thAEGti1009 (Jan 28, 2005)

Do not have a bentley for it yet. I just picked up the car like 3 days ago. Just trying to figure some of this out without it but it looks like im gonna just have to order one.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

20thAEGti1009 said:


> Do not have a bentley for it yet. I just picked up the car like 3 days ago. Just trying to figure some of this out without it but it looks like im gonna just have to order one.


 You can always download it if you need it now, don't have the link, but do a search in this forum for it, dogger started the thread


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## Rckstr111 (Jul 5, 2010)

*window*

OK here goes. I've got a '92 SLC. I bought it completely unmolested a year ago. It sat for 5 years in a garage without even being started. Since then, I got it running, and have started fixing.....everything. (electrical issues, fuel issues, cooling issues, new chains, Gremlins of all sorts) I have put coil-overs and wheels/tires, stereo etc. And have done some serious cleaning. I am no mechanic, but I know my way around. So, here's the deal. The passenger window has dropped about a quarter inch. It doesn't leak water, but I can hear wind noise a high speeds. I know it's not the way it should be and I can't leave well enough alone. I have a Bentley, but I can't find the inner workings of the window in it. I haven't pulled the door apart because I don't want to open a can of worms if I can't get the parts right away. Any pointers? Anyone had to fix something like this before? If it's a bushing, or clip or whatever, where can I get the parts I need?


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## adam the caveman (Sep 9, 2010)

*up up and away?*

Car: (canadian) Corrado G60 (rebuilt motor/supercharger) 
Year: 1990 
Mods: not my car, not too sure 
Problem: My dad bought this thing back in summer (2010) and it recently started a rev issue. (sometimes) when sitting at a stop or rolling in neutral the rpms keep rising. when in gear and driving one can release the throttle and it acts more like cruise control. 

its been in the shop once, they disassembled the throttle body components, cleaned/lubed, and they cant reproduce the problem. we got it back, it started doing it again. took it back to teh same shop and (whaddaya know) they still cant reproduce teh problem. the working mechanic's notes are as follows: 

...engine has aftermarket parts - idle speed motor intake has been relocated FROM the return pipe for the supercharger TO the air intake pipe (after the supercharger)& this normally requires reprogramming of ECU. 

is this anywhere near related to the problem? 

i'd like to pool some knowledge on it before my [email protected] dad tries to sell it out of frustration


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Rckstr111 said:


> OK here goes. I've got a '92 SLC. I bought it completely unmolested a year ago. It sat for 5 years in a garage without even being started. Since then, I got it running, and have started fixing.....everything. (electrical issues, fuel issues, cooling issues, new chains, Gremlins of all sorts) I have put coil-overs and wheels/tires, stereo etc. And have done some serious cleaning. I am no mechanic, but I know my way around. So, here's the deal. The passenger window has dropped about a quarter inch. It doesn't leak water, but I can hear wind noise a high speeds. I know it's not the way it should be and I can't leave well enough alone. I have a Bentley, but I can't find the inner workings of the window in it. I haven't pulled the door apart because I don't want to open a can of worms if I can't get the parts right away. Any pointers? Anyone had to fix something like this before? If it's a bushing, or clip or whatever, where can I get the parts I need?


 broken window regulator, actually just the top or bottom guide piece, there are a few mac greuber fixes out there, but you cannot buy just those guides, you have to get a whole new reg, which is rediculous. 

I fixed mine with some glue and zip ties, it lasted awhile, but is now showing some sign of failure


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

adam the caveman said:


> Car: (canadian) Corrado G60 (rebuilt motor/supercharger)
> Year: 1990
> Mods: not my car, not too sure
> Problem: My dad bought this thing back in summer (2010) and it recently started a rev issue. (sometimes) when sitting at a stop or rolling in neutral the rpms keep rising. when in gear and driving one can release the throttle and it acts more like cruise control.
> ...


 Well, I would not use that mechanic again, cause they obviously have no idea about the G60. I assume he has the ISV re-route and does not require reprogramming of the ECU. 

Could be a few things, possibly idle or WOT TB switches, easily tested, clean and check the ISV, possibly even a Co-Pot adjustment issue, really could be alot of things, but this would be a good place to start.


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## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> IIRC is a brown wire in the same harness as the ISV harness, was located there on mine, funny thing tho, I removed it and the fan still ran if it was hot, weird


 You are correct sir, brown wire, same harness as ISV. I think it's just a backup / failsafe, as most cars back then would kick the fan on based on the coolant temp sensor reading without having a sensor just sticking out into space under the hood.


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## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Well, I would not use that mechanic again, cause they obviously have no idea about the G60. I assume he has the ISV re-route and does not require reprogramming of the ECU.
> 
> Could be a few things, possibly idle or WOT TB switches, easily tested, clean and check the ISV, possibly even a Co-Pot adjustment issue, really could be alot of things, but this would be a good place to start.


 Sticky throttle cable?


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## adam the caveman (Sep 9, 2010)

WOT TB switches? (i dont know much about the G60 either so....) 


yeah its been a b***h trying to find a reliable mechanic around here who knows his dubs. to better paint the picture: we dropped it off and they called us later that day asking us if we could bring them the bentley bible for the car :facepalm:.....know any good dub shops in teh seattle area by chance? :banghead: hahaha


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## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

adam the caveman said:


> WOT TB switches? (i dont know much about the G60 either so....)


 WOT = Wide Open Throttle. TB = Throttle Body


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

pej said:


> WOT = Wide Open Throttle. TB = Throttle Body


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Whats that old saying... you can never have too much boost. :laugh: 









Out of curosity... What exactly is the danger zone on the G-Lader charger? I've never read anything concrete on how much is safe to have it put out at WOT.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> Out of curosity... What exactly is the danger zone on the G-Lader charger? I've never read anything concrete on how much is safe to have it put out at WOT.


 62 and 58 mm pulleys are really cranking the charger way too fast at over 4500-5000 rpms.


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## VR6Ewing (Feb 10, 2010)

just out of curiosity, what is the sensor located on the intake boot? would it hurt to delete it? thanks


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## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

VR6Ewing said:


> just out of curiosity, what is the sensor located on the intake boot? would it hurt to delete it? thanks


 Sounds like an Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

pej said:


> Sounds like an Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor?


 Nope, the IAT on a vr is located in th intake manifold. 
The only sensor on the intake boot is the MAF, only stand alone will allow you to delete it.


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## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Nope, the IAT on a vr is located in th intake manifold.
> The only sensor on the intake boot is the MAF, only stand alone will allow you to delete it.


 Ah yeah the MAF. :facepalm: I shoulda known that! 4 weeks out of the shop and all knowledge is flushed.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

lol, you were confused because my IAT is on the Intake before the TB.


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## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> lol, you were confused because my IAT is on the Intake before the TB.


 I've made a habit of being confused.


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## VR6Ewing (Feb 10, 2010)

there is another sensor right off the boot. its on the hose that is the breather line for the valve cover. theres suppose to be a pcv valve on that line but mine is deleted.


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## teammonster (Jul 20, 2007)

Needing some information on a 91 g60 

Blinkers don't work. I think it's the switch. Will any other switches work from another VW? It has the digital dash with MAF and cruise control. 

Adjusted the timing not sure it's timed right where it's at any advice. Runs much better then when I bought it. I'm pretty sure it's close. 

Please PM me if you have any insight. Thanks.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

teammonster said:


> Needing some information on a 91 g60
> 
> Blinkers don't work. I think it's the switch. Will any other switches work from another VW? It has the digital dash with MAF and cruise control.
> 
> ...


 Did you check the fuses and the relay first?

Also did you follow the procedure in the bentley on timing it?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

teammonster said:


> Needing some information on a 91 g60
> 
> Blinkers don't work. I think it's the switch. Will any other switches work from another VW? It has the digital dash with MAF and cruise control.
> 
> ...


 try to jiggle your hazard switch, it can cause blinker issues, not sure about other VW model compatability... 

and what Burnsy said above ^ Can be fine tuned with a timing light :thumbup:


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> try to jiggle your hazard switch, it can cause blinker issues, not sure about other VW model compatability...


 mk2 w/ cruise and mfafor early interior and mk3 w/ cruise and mfa for late interior


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## teammonster (Jul 20, 2007)

TheBurninator said:


> Did you check the fuses and the relay first?
> 
> Also did you follow the procedure in the bentley on timing it?


 Yes did check those. Didn't see the timing mark with the light.


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## teammonster (Jul 20, 2007)

Sr. Karmann said:


> try to jiggle your hazard switch, it can cause blinker issues, not sure about other VW model compatability...
> 
> and what Burnsy said above ^ Can be fine tuned with a timing light :thumbup:


 I will give it a shot. They worked before seems like when I move the steering column sometimes they work but haven't gotten them to work the last few days. Can't wait to get the car on the road.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

teammonster said:


> Yes did check those. Didn't see the timing mark with the light.


 Turn your motor over by hand and check for the marks. Possible someone replaced your flywheel and didn't put marks on the new one. 

If that is the case then you can time it with the mark on the crank pulley. 

When you are timing it you are unplugging the blue coolant temp sensor after the car is warmed up right? And then timing it and plugging it back in before you shut the car off?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Question for G60 guys running volvo oil cooler sandwich plates: 
Did you use the stock piece of pipe that runs through the center or did you have to use a custom length? 

Chad, I know you just put one on your engine. Whats the story buddy?


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## teammonster (Jul 20, 2007)

TheBurninator said:


> Turn your motor over by hand and check for the marks. Possible someone replaced your flywheel and didn't put marks on the new one.
> 
> If that is the case then you can time it with the mark on the crank pulley.
> 
> When you are timing it you are unplugging the blue coolant temp sensor after the car is warmed up right? And then timing it and plugging it back in before you shut the car off?


No I haven't done that. What's the purpose of unplugging the coolant sensor?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

teammonster said:


> Yes did check those. Didn't see the timing mark with the light.


Use whiteout paint pen to mark the notches  And there is a timing arrow on the lower timing belt cover.



teammonster said:


> I will give it a shot. They worked before seems like when I move the steering column sometimes they work but haven't gotten them to work the last few days. Can't wait to get the car on the road.


I'd almost bet that's what it is then



TheBurninator said:


> Question for G60 guys running volvo oil cooler sandwich plates:
> Did you use the stock piece of pipe that runs through the center or did you have to use a custom length?
> 
> Chad, I know you just put one on your engine. Whats the story buddy?


No, unfortunately you need the volvo one or to have the stock one threaded more as the un-threaded shaft part is just too long. With the volvo one you need to cut a good bit off the shorter threaded size for the shafted part to sit deeper in the plate. I can measure mine if you need :thumbup:



teammonster said:


> No I haven't done that. What's the purpose of unplugging the coolant sensor?


So the ECU won't pull or advance timing


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

VR6Ewing said:


> there is another sensor right off the boot. its on the hose that is the breather line for the valve cover. theres suppose to be a pcv valve on that line but mine is deleted.


That's just the PCV Breather Heater. Can be deleted without throwing any codes, but must be blocked off on the intake boot side with a filter coming off the valve cover. :thumbup:


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

teammonster said:


> No I haven't done that. What's the purpose of unplugging the coolant sensor?


It puts the ECU into a timing learn mode. Probably why you couldn't see the timing marks as the timing was being controlled by the ECU at that point.



Sr. Karmann said:


> No, unfortunately you need the volvo one or to have the stock one threaded more as the un-threaded shaft part is just too long. With the volvo one you need to cut a good bit off the shorter threaded size for the shafted part to sit deeper in the plate. I can measure mine if you need :thumbup:


I had a feeling the stock one wouldn't have enough threads on it / be too long since the plate isn't as thick as the stock cooler.

Can you grab me the measurements and thread pitch if you know it by chance? :thumbup:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> I
> I had a feeling the stock one wouldn't have enough threads on it / be too long since the plate isn't as thick as the stock cooler.
> 
> Can you grab me the measurements and thread pitch if you know it by chance? :thumbup:


IMHO you could have the stock one threaded and be fine, I will grab you measurements later, but will not be able to provide pitch, maybe you can look up ETKA for the retaining nut pitch???


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> I had a feeling the stock one wouldn't have enough threads on it / be too long since the plate isn't as thick as the stock cooler.
> 
> Can you grab me the measurements and thread pitch if you know it by chance? :thumbup:


You owe me big, forgot I had that thing torqued the eff in there 

mine is 71mm long, 32mm on long thread 10mm on short thread and you really have to torque that sukker in there to get it in far enough to get the nut tight on the plate :thumbup: Probly could even use a washer IMO


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## Hemingway'sToe (Feb 13, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> IMHO you could have the stock one threaded and be fine, I will grab you measurements later, but will not be able to provide pitch, maybe you can look up ETKA for the retaining nut pitch???


3/4-16 is the thread pitch. One of the only SAE thread pitches I've found on the Corrado.

I went to summitracing and got one of THESE to use with 
THIS


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Hemingway'sToe said:


> 3/4-16 is the thread pitch. One of the only SAE thread pitches I've found on the Corrado.
> 
> I went to summitracing and got one of THESE to use with
> THIS


don't you think $3.99 is kinda pricey :laugh:


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## Hemingway'sToe (Feb 13, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> don't you think $3.99 is kinda pricey :laugh:


I know! I was already dropping three Hamiltons for the thermostatic cooler, I figured it was just in the noise already. 

I'm hoping it works well enough, I couldn't bring myself to spend $100 on the mocal, and I couldn't find any Volvo ones locally.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Hemingway'sToe said:


> I know! I was already dropping three Hamiltons for the thermostatic cooler, I figured it was just in the noise already.
> 
> I'm hoping it works well enough, I couldn't bring myself to spend $100 on the mocal, and I couldn't find any Volvo ones locally.


IIRC, I dropped like $40, maybe $60 on my JY Volvo setup, plus another $75 in fittings and $30 on lines :facepalm:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

So far I am at 4 bucks for that piece, the sandwich plate was free. Now I just need a cooler, lines, and fittings.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> So far I am at 4 bucks for that piece, the sandwich plate was free. Now I just need a cooler, lines, and fittings.


If you could find me a different sized cooler, I will send you mine, looking for one the same "area size" of the G60 IC, so I can run my duct to it :thumbup:


----------



## teammonster (Jul 20, 2007)

Thanks guys I will try all the advice and I'm sure I will be back asking more questions when I come a crossed them!


----------



## marv0 (Mar 3, 2009)

90 stock g60. Did a tune up about a month ago, was running fine but then one morning it just didnt want to start. It seemed like my starter was shot so I replaced it along with the ignition coil. the battery is still healthy and only about a year old. The problem persists, i could really use some help advice  Any suggestions?


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

marv0 said:


> 90 stock g60. Did a tune up about a month ago, was running fine but then one morning it just didnt want to start. It seemed like my starter was shot so I replaced it along with the ignition coil. the battery is still healthy and only about a year old. The problem persists, i could really use some help advice  Any suggestions?


Check the ignition switch. (I'm assuming when you say ignition coil you dont mean the ignition switch in the steering column)


----------



## VR6Ewing (Feb 10, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> That's just the PCV Breather Heater. Can be deleted without throwing any codes, but must be blocked off on the intake boot side with a filter coming off the valve cover. :thumbup:


okay thank you sir :thumbup:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

marv0 said:


> 90 stock g60. Did a tune up about a month ago, was running fine but then one morning it just didnt want to start. It seemed like my starter was shot so I replaced it along with the ignition coil. the battery is still healthy and only about a year old. The problem persists, i could really use some help advice  Any suggestions?


Did you check the battery to see if it was still good or are yu assuming?


----------



## UnarmedBandit (Dec 31, 2010)

adam the caveman said:


> WOT TB switches? (i dont know much about the G60 either so....)
> 
> 
> yeah its been a b***h trying to find a reliable mechanic around here who knows his dubs. to better paint the picture: we dropped it off and they called us later that day asking us if we could bring them the bentley bible for the car :facepalm:.....know any good dub shops in teh seattle area by chance? :banghead: hahaha


Hans VW Repair (West Seattle) Try and talk to Hans Jr.


----------



## marv0 (Mar 3, 2009)

:thumbup:My bad, I was a:thumbup:ssuming. batter:thumbup:y is bad checke:thumbup:d with a voltme:thumbup:ter and it read -11. im going to buy a new one but would like to know if you can give me some recommendations. Thanks for the help


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## DWI_gti (Jan 12, 2004)

Wondering if A2 power recaro sliders will fit in a Corrado correctly. From what I hear the bases sit a little higher then the corrado ones, but can you make them work. Seats that are going on them are SRDs. Any pics would also help


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

DWI_gti said:


> Wondering if A2 power recaro sliders will fit in a Corrado correctly. From what I hear the bases sit a little higher then the corrado ones, but can you make them work. Seats that are going on them are SRDs. Any pics would also help


G60_Racer did a thread on how to mod the MK2 brackets, yes they sit way too high. Search his name or search for threads with "RECARO" in the title. 

If willing to forgo power, Speedware out of Bellvue WA sells Recaro brackets and manual sliders.


----------



## zideman (Oct 23, 2004)

Hello out there in Corrado world!

NEVERMIND JAMES AKA DOGGER helped me find. What a badass. If your sunroof and spoiler and volt/oil gauges go out at the same time... check S4 (sunroof) S16 (spoiler) and S21... for some reason 4 and 16 being replaced even though 4 wasnt blown out fixed all three problems!


----------



## hxc920 (Oct 26, 2010)

is there any way of changing the water pump on a 1993 vr6 without dropping the motor?


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

Does ANYONE still sell clear sidemarker lenses?


----------



## dasbeast3.0 (Aug 15, 2007)

hxc920 said:


> is there any way of changing the water pump on a 1993 vr6 without dropping the motor?



Raise the motor.  Unbolt front and rear motor mounts and jack it up. :thumbup:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

pej said:


> Does ANYONE still sell clear sidemarker lenses?


there was a guy selling some in the classifieds awhile back, Torsten was looking at them too, couldn't find it under search, but dood seemed like he had a bunch...

Eurocullen on ebay has them if you want to risk it, I've researched him and a lot of folks say hez shady, you're call 

I have a set I will sell you for 1 meeelion dollas :laugh:


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> there was a guy selling some in the classifieds awhile back, Torsten was looking at them too, couldn't find it under search, but dood seemed like he had a bunch...
> 
> Eurocullen on ebay has them if you want to risk it, I've researched him and a lot of folks say hez shady, you're call
> 
> I have a set I will sell you for 1 meeelion dollas :laugh:


I think the set of smoked ebay markers I already have are from that eurocullen guy. I checked on there last night (he's got 100% positive feedback) and only saw smoked, so Im waiting to hear back from him on the clears.

Only 1 meeelion? I was prepared to pay.... 1 treeeeelion dollars! Wanna just trade?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

pej said:


> I think the set of smoked ebay markers I already have are from that eurocullen guy. I checked on there last night and only saw smoked, so Im waiting to hear back from him on the clears.
> 
> Only 1 meeelion? I was prepared to pay.... 1 treeeeelion dollars!


:laugh:

Good luck with the return e-mail :facepalm: I've done some searches for you with ill results...


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> :laugh:
> 
> Good luck with the return e-mail :facepalm: I've done some searches for you with ill results...


I've done some searching as well with the same results... ill results as well.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

pej said:


> I've done some searching as well with the same results... ill results as well.


my offer still stands :laugh:


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> my offer still stands :laugh:


Thanks you're a peach. :beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

pej said:


> Thanks you're a peach. :beer:


:laugh:..............:beer:


----------



## adam the caveman (Sep 9, 2010)

thx for the tip duder


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

QUESTIONS:

1) Is there a chart for wheel offsets based on rim width floating around the forum?

2) Can the wheel hubs on a 1990 G60 be swapped out for hgubs with a 5 bolt lug pattern?

3) Is there non-aftermarket brake upgrade kit for the rear?

Thanks in advance!!!! :beer:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

iMD Autos said:


> QUESTIONS:
> 
> 3) Is there non-aftermarket brake upgrade kit for the rear?
> 
> Thanks in advance!!!! :beer:


Upgrade to aluminium MK4 rear calipers :thumbup:


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Upgrade to aluminium MK4 rear calipers :thumbup:


Thanks!!!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

iMD Autos said:


> QUESTIONS:
> 
> 1) Is there a chart for wheel offsets based on rim width floating around the forum?
> 
> ...


1. There is a thread floating around the corrado forum, wheels, offset, fenders and your mom's horoscope, bet if you search horoscope you will findz it 

2. Not sure, but [email protected] has hubs and discs set that are drilled for 4x & 5x100, sooper cool and come with new wheel bearings for a pretty damn good price, hell think he still owes me a set for selling so many 

3. What Red said above ^


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> :laugh:..............:beer:


Found 'em! NGP Racing and Concept1 both have them!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

pej said:


> Found 'em! NGP Racing and Concept1 both have them!


faschweet:beer:


----------



## duffmanh06 (Apr 22, 2008)

.... So, gentlemen, I may or may not trade my GTi for a SLC 'Raddo.... Only problem is, its autotragic... What is needed/cost to swap to a manual trans... Cost wise is it even worth it?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

duffmanh06 said:


> .... So, gentlemen, I may or may not trade my GTi for a SLC 'Raddo.... Only problem is, its autotragic... What is needed/cost to swap to a manual trans... Cost wise is it even worth it?


Pedal cluster, shifter box, center console, trans, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, master cylinder, bracket for master, hydrolic line, one night with your mom.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

TheBurninator said:


> one night with your mom.


lmao


----------



## duffmanh06 (Apr 22, 2008)

excellent, The cranks aren't keyed differently on the autotragic vrs? I was worried about having the get the crank machined... I may now trade for it. Thanks guys.



The one night with my mom, I'm pretty sure thats just optional, I hear it just gets you an extra gear, I only need 5. Thats fine for now.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

duffmanh06 said:


> excellent, The cranks aren't keyed differently on the autotragic vrs? I was worried about having the get the crank machined... I may now trade for it. Thanks guys.
> 
> 
> 
> The one night with my mom, I'm pretty sure thats just optional, I hear it just gets you an extra gear, I only need 5. Thats fine for now.


Nope, all 12v VR6 engines are the same crank and block. Nothing changed until the 2.8 24v engine for automatics.

You will have to do some wiring around the automatic wiring stuff.


----------



## duffmanh06 (Apr 22, 2008)

read a thread before about the little wiring trick you have to do, the park lock out switch needs to be "deleted" and faked. Not a problem seems to be like 2 wires. or something fairly simple. 

Now, I would have to drive it in autotragic status for like a year to build up the parts I need, how do the auto's respond to more power, cams and full exhaust?


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

I thought I remember seeing a thread about it before but I cant find it now, so I'll ask here. In order to use Mk4 or newer seats you have to custom make a bracket right?
I've got a line on a set of really nice power leathers from a B5 Passat that would be uber comfy in my car, but dont know if they'll even fit with fabbing a bracket to mount them.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> I thought I remember seeing a thread about it before but I cant find it now, so I'll ask here. In order to use Mk4 or newer seats you have to custom make a bracket right?
> I've got a line on a set of really nice power leathers from a B5 Passat that would be uber comfy in my car, but dont know if they'll even fit with fabbing a bracket to mount them.


B5 seats bold in completely differently than mk2/3/4/corrado.

Also they will sit WAY too high.


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> B5 seats bold in completely differently than mk2/3/4/corrado.
> 
> Also they will sit WAY too high.


I take it there's no possible way... well let me rephrase that... no way outside needing a rocket scientist to make a custom mount so they sit lower?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> I take it there's no possible way... well let me rephrase that... no way outside needing a rocket scientist to make a custom mount so they sit lower?


It isn't like a mk4 where you just need to narrow the bracket and make it sit lower. Which is already a ton of work.

The mounting and slider setup is completely different.


----------



## wed3k (Feb 22, 2010)

G60: Grinding noise while cranking and no movement of the crank. eventually it will turn the motor over and start up fine. It's not the infamous sticking bendix drive after engine starts.


----------



## reborndub (Jun 18, 2009)

wed3k said:


> G60: Grinding noise while cranking and no movement of the crank. eventually it will turn the motor over and start up fine. It's not the infamous sticking bendix drive after engine starts.


frozen accessory? ac clutch/idler pully/alt./ps

just dealt with this today myself. waiting the last min to get plow truck running. jumping it for like an hour, before i realize the belts arent turning. thought it was the stupid air pump again so i smacked it with a hammer. after a while of wacks and spinning things i got the truck to fire off w/ squeeling. but it wasnt the pump, it was the alt. a melted belt later. the alt was seized up silly. i checked it w/ breaker bar and spin but the belt was on so i thought it was just belt tension. nope its junk,and now the belt is too.
things just werent meant to sit outside (or in)with no use.

just something to look into :thumbup:


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Is there any difference between the shift boot covers between VR and G60 models? I dont believe there are but I figured it was worth a check.


----------



## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

-24°C This morning.... :screwy:
The rado started fine and idle got normal after 5mins... But now my pass window won't budge, it was already slower and sometimes it would struggle to raise it. 


Am i having a shot regulator, or is there something i could try before looking for a new one? Grease loose/corroded contact maybe?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> Is there any difference between the shift boot covers between VR and G60 models? I dont believe there are but I figured it was worth a check.


Yes. VR6 Ones are way more expensive. Check EPP as they were the last place I saw with both OE Boots. 



Seb--Morin said:


> -24°C This morning.... :screwy:
> The rado started fine and idle got normal after 5mins... But now my pass window won't budge, it was already slower and sometimes it would struggle to raise it.
> 
> 
> Am i having a shot regulator, or is there something i could try before looking for a new one? Grease loose/corroded contact maybe?


 Maybe, hard to tell at those temps. Maybe the mechanism is frozen. How about pulling the door panel to confirm? :banghead:


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Yes. VR6 Ones are way more expensive. Check EPP as they were the last place I saw with both OE Boots.


EEP only has 1 style boot now. Is price the only difference or is the plastic trim actually different?
The trim I have is P# 535 863 216.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> EEP only has 1 style boot now. Is price the only difference or is the plastic trim actually different?
> The trim I have is P# 535 863 216.


 The boot is different in size, only very slightly. The trim I do not believe there to be a difference, although I cannot confirm 100% for sure on that.


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

Is the fog/signal assembly from the VR6 a direct fit into the '91 bumper? If not, what's involved in the conversion?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

pej said:


> Is the fog/signal assembly from the VR6 a direct fit into the '91 bumper? If not, what's involved in the conversion?


Trimming the bumper to fit the tabs on the VR6 Housing.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

cyberstasi said:


> Is there any difference between the shift boot covers between VR and G60 models? I dont believe there are but I figured it was worth a check.


Yes there is and significant. The bases are all the same as the the console is (for all intensive purposes), however, the differences are at the top by the shift knob. The G60 fits the Shift Shaft and is just sewn at the top. The Vr has a Brass ring at the top that fits into the Vr Shift Knob so it does not sag down.

Also, the Vr is leather. The G60 (At least the ones I ever had) where vinyl. Although, I never had a stock G60 leather, so that could be part of the reason for that aspect.

Regardles, the bottom line is Vr = mo betta and required if you are running the Vr shift knob to make things look right.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

pej said:


> Is the fog/signal assembly from the VR6 a direct fit into the '91 bumper? If not, what's involved in the conversion?





DUBZAK said:


> Trimming the bumper to fit the tabs on the VR6 Housing.


So simple even I did it :laugh:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

sdezego said:


> ...Also, the Vr is leather. The G60 (At least the ones I ever had) where vinyl. Although, I never had a stock G60 leather, so that could be part of the reason for that aspect...


True, same goes for the shift knobs IIRC.
The others mentioned above I didn't know


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

sdezego said:


> Yes there is and significant. The bases are all the same as the the console is (for all intensive purposes), however, the differences are at the top by the shift knob. The G60 fits the Shift Shaft and is just sewn at the top. The Vr has a Brass ring at the top that fits into the Vr Shift Knob so it does not sag down.
> 
> Also, the Vr is leather. The G60 (At least the ones I ever had) where vinyl. Although, I never had a stock G60 leather, so that could be part of the reason for that aspect.
> 
> Regardles, the bottom line is Vr = mo betta and required if you are running the Vr shift knob to make things look right.


Gotcha, thanks. The one I'm selling is a red leather Momo one, so what I was mostly wondering about was the base trim piece. I was asked by a potential buyer if it'd fit a 93. I figured it would, but wanted to check before I gave him a firm answer. It came off a 90 1.8T swap car, so I was clueless.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Ok, can anyone advice how much ft of Dynamat is needed to do a Corrado (floor from front to back, hatch area, door cards front and rear and the dash - not doing the roof or firewall btw) 
50ft, 100ft, more? 

And what thickness is good?


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Trimming the bumper to fit the tabs on the VR6 Housing.


So I can do it without taking the bumper off? :thumbup:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

pej said:


> So I can do it without taking the bumper off? :thumbup:


Yep, and there is not really trimming of the bumper as you may think, just need to remove the rubber part behind the stock fog :thumbup:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Ok, can anyone advice how much ft of Dynamat is needed to do a Corrado (floor from front to back, hatch area, door cards front and rear and the dash - not doing the roof or firewall btw)
> 50ft, 100ft, more?
> 
> And what thickness is good?


Ok, ok you got me ...its not for my Corrado, its for the MK1 Golf project - so can I please get an answer? :laugh:


Plus, I've been having some battery drain problems lately...Here's the story: 
My battery is new (6 months old maybe). Car didn't start. Measure it - very low volt. Proceed to start with jumper wires succesfully. After a while (maybe 1 hour) running, remeasure the battery and it was good. After 3-4 days car wouldn't start again. Took battery off to the shop to check where they charge it. Put it on car, reading fine. Start the car, ok. Test it again with the car running and very low voltage. Does this mean bad alternator? 

Please note that my alternator was rebuilt recently but only did beearings etc. Didn't replace voltage regulator. 

Question: do you think I should I just replace regulator or take the whole alternator off to be inspected?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Ok, ok you got me ...its not for my Corrado, its for the MK1 Golf project - so can I please get an answer? :laugh:
> 
> 
> Plus, I've been having some battery drain problems lately...Here's the story:
> ...


My guess would be yes on the alternator. I would try replacing the voltage regulator first since they are cheaper than a whole alternator and yours was just rebuilt other than that part. Also check the blue wire for a bad connection to the alternator. I have had an issue before where it looked like it was connected and had a huge issue with it.

No idea on the dynamat portion. I think 100 ft is overkill for a mk1 though.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> My guess would be yes on the alternator. I would try replacing the voltage regulator first since they are cheaper than a whole alternator and yours was just rebuilt other than that part. Also check the blue wire for a bad connection to the alternator. I have had an issue before where it looked like it was connected and had a huge issue with it.


Thanks man :thumbup:
Which one should I opt for:
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/EngineElectrical/239/1




TheBurninator said:


> No idea on the dynamat portion. I think 100 ft is overkill for a mk1 though.


You're probably right, I reckon 50ft should be fine for the job 
Problem noew is how to get that thing shipped here...


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> Also check the blue wire for a bad connection to the alternator. I have had an issue before where it looked like it was connected and had a huge issue with it.


I hate that exciter wire.


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

looking for the cheapest place to get #30 injectors (4)


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Thanks man :thumbup:
> Which one should I opt for:
> http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/EngineElectrical/239/1
> 
> ...


Bosch is would I would go for.

And if you need help with shipping it I am sure Chad or myself could help. :thumbup:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

nu2dubbing said:


> looking for the cheapest place to get #30 injectors (4)


Check wit Integrated Engineering, USRT or just google search it 



TheBurninator said:


> And if you need help with shipping it I am sure Chad or myself could help. :thumbup:


:thumbup:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> :thumbup:





TheBurninator said:


> Bosch is would I would go for.
> 
> And if you need help with shipping it I am sure Chad or myself could help. :thumbup:


Thanks guys,

I found this one on ebay, I can get this shipped to me no problem...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ALL-VW-MARK-2...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43a3cf5423










What do you think, should I go for it or better buy one from GAP?


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Ok guys can anyone seriously tell me what model American Racing rims these are? Maybe a little history on them :biggrinsanta:

I just bought them last night. They are 15" 4lug universal which leads me to believe early 80's (mustang). Lip is nearly 5" deep!



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

American Racing?!?!?! The only ones a euro car owner would know about are the 2 piece RS copies.  :laugh:

Try Googling American Racing or contacting them for old catalogs.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Thanks guys,
> 
> I found this one on ebay, I can get this shipped to me no problem...
> 
> ...


Ok, the above ebay regulator supplied is either "Topran" from Germany or "JP group" from Denmark. I did some searching on the web and read some not very good reviews...So, I think I'll better buy the GAP one....

So, could you please guys (Kyle or Chad or someone else) help with the Bosch one GAP sells?  
Thanks :beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Ok, the above ebay regulator supplied is either "Topran" from Germany or "JP group" from Denmark. I did some searching on the web and read some not very good reviews...So, I think I'll better buy the GAP one....
> 
> So, could you please guys (Kyle or Chad or someone else) help with the Bosch one GAP sells?
> Thanks :beer:


No problem Nick, it is small enough to get in the smallest flat rate mailer, PM me for my addy if you wanna go ahead with it. Maybe contact GAP and see if they will ship it to me or if I need to buy it. LMK :thumbup:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> No problem Nick, it is small enough to get in the smallest flat rate mailer, PM me for my addy if you wanna go ahead with it. Maybe contact GAP and see if they will ship it to me or if I need to buy it. LMK :thumbup:


PM send...really appreciate it :thumbup:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> PM send...really appreciate it :thumbup:


Responded :thumbup:


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

*ac prob*

so on my g60 i have every thing new as far as ac and a flush for r134 when i put the cold setting on it blows hot....some times as i play with it it blows ice cold then bam its hot again... :beer::beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

G60Ron said:


> so on my g60 i have every thing new as far as ac and a flush for r134 when i put the cold setting on it blows hot....some times as i play with it it blows ice cold then bam its hot again... :beer::beer:


need to make sure your heat/AC blend door is closing properly :thumbup:


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> need to make sure your heat/AC blend door is closing properly :thumbup:


i asked my boy last night he said the same thing i just wanted to see if any one eles maby had that same issue thanks dude!:thumbup:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Well, got lucky and found a replacement voltage regulator here, genuine Bosch item with correct PN for resonable price.

new part installed:










Replace it today, car started did some tests to the battery (12,5 volts) and alternator wires (11.5-12 volts) but on the last test ie. remove positive battery clamp while engine running, it failed - the car turned off  

So the voltage regulator might have been bad (since its brushes barely measured 6mm) but the new one did not solved the problem. 

Pics of the old part:




















Any other ideas what could it be or what I could check before I seek professional help?  

TIA
Nick


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

G60Ron said:


> i asked my boy last night he said the same thing i just wanted to see if any one eles maby had that same issue thanks dude!:thumbup:


If you stop by this weekend I will take a look :thumbup:



RedYellowWhite said:


> Well, got lucky and found a replacement voltage regulator here, genuine Bosch item with correct PN for resonable price.
> 
> Replace it today, car started did some tests to the battery (12,5 volts) and alternator wires (11.5-12 volts) but on the last test ie. remove positive battery clamp while engine running, it failed - the car turned off
> 
> ...


Nick, I don't think it is possible to simply remove the battery cable and have the system still work, someone please correct me if I am wrong. 

Alt should yield 13+ volts. Have you checked the blue trigger wire mentioned above? Have you checked the main alt wire as well? Mine hit the fan (no pun) and was significantly thinner than orig, once I replaced that, I had no more issues, but wasn't really having the same issues you are tho.

You mentioned earlier it is a PITA to remove the alt, not really bro, like 15 mins, take that thing out and bring it in to be tested. :thumbup:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Nick, I don't think it is possible to simply remove the battery cable and have the system still work, someone please correct me if I am wrong.


^^ Are you sure ...Until now I knew for a fact that removing the batt. cable while engine running should still make engine run....





Sr. Karmann said:


> Alt should yield 13+ volts. Have you checked the blue trigger wire mentioned above? Have you checked the main alt wire as well? Mine hit the fan (no pun) and was significantly thinner than orig, once I replaced that, I had no more issues, but wasn't really having the same issues you are tho.


I have measured alt at both cables (red thick wire and blue thin wire) with results being 12volts while engine running. 




Sr. Karmann said:


> You mentioned earlier it is a PITA to remove the alt, not really bro, like 15 mins, take that thing out and bring it in to be tested. :thumbup:


You're right, its not that hard...I'll remove it and send it to get tested asap :thumbup:
I just found it more logical to have the regulator replaced since its not that expensive anyway, since its easier/quicker to remove and check and since I knew mine haven't been changed before 


Regardless, do you think it could be something else besides the alternator? Anything else I should check since I have my multimeter out?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^ Are you sure ...Until now I knew for a fact that removing the batt. cable while engine running should still make engine run....
> 
> Regardless, do you think it could be something else besides the alternator? Anything else I should check since I have my multimeter out?


Not 100%, thatz why I said, someone please correct me if I am wrong, go try it on ur MKI 

As far as other things to check, not really, need to make sure the batt and alt are good before you proceed. It's like needing a heart transplant, but instead you decide to cut your finger nails :laugh:


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

Is there anything I can put on the threads of the hard power steering lines that connect to the rack to prevent leaking?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

iAco said:


> Is there anything I can put on the threads of the hard power steering lines that connect to the rack to prevent leaking?


You could probably get away with some teflon tape on the threads, but I thought those fittings were a compression thread similar to an AN fitting.


----------



## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

They are a compression thread, and you don't need teflon tape. If it's leaking, the ps fluid will eat the tape any way.

Either the rubber o-ring on the fitting is shot OR the threads are stripped. Grab a new hose, they aren't that expensive. Hopefully it's the thread on the hose that are shot. If not, it's time to replace the rack. (or somehow repair the threads)

Lloyd



TheBurninator said:


> You could probably get away with some teflon tape on the threads, but I thought those fittings were a compression thread similar to an AN fitting.


----------



## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

Alternator things to check:

1) the alternator needs to be grounded. I can't remember if the alternator grounds through the mount or by a strap to ground. Either way, do a continuity test between the alternator casing and the negative terminal. If there's not ground - fix it.

2) there's a blue exciter wire that goes to the alternator. This wire tells the alternator to start charging. Find it, and test it when the car is running. It should be 12v. If it's not, trace it back to the fuse box to find out why - or run another 12v to it.

3) there's (1 or 2) red wires that go out of the alternator back to the battery. These should be producing 13+ volts when the car is charging. Measure at the alternator while running and at the battery. If it's less then 13v, replace the alternator

If your car shuts off when you remove the positive terminal, then there's a problem with one of the items above. Your battery is there to start the car, the alternator is what runs the car and charges the battery.




Sr. Karmann said:


> Not 100%, thatz why I said, someone please correct me if I am wrong, go try it on ur MKI
> 
> As far as other things to check, not really, need to make sure the batt and alt are good before you proceed. It's like needing a heart transplant, but instead you decide to cut your finger nails :laugh:


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Can the PCV be removed and a small air breather be put in its place?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

lmurray said:


> Alternator things to check:
> 
> If your car shuts off when you remove the positive terminal, then there's a problem with one of the items above. Your battery is there to start the car, the alternator is what runs the car and charges the battery.


HAHAHA, actually just got off the phone with my buddy to confirm this, his batt was not strapped in the trunk and took a high speed turn, popped the pos batt wire and made it home...:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## pheall (Jul 16, 2009)

*help*

im thinking about getting this car. its a 2.2L 16v G60








what do you guys think??


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

pheall said:


> im thinking about getting this car. its a 2.2L 16v G60
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice looking based on that pic. how much?


----------



## pheall (Jul 16, 2009)

trading my 1974 vw bus for it


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> HAHAHA, actually just got off the phone with my buddy to confirm this, his batt was not strapped in the trunk and took a high speed turn, popped the pos batt wire and made it home...:thumbup::thumbup:


Told ya :laugh:




lmurray said:


> Alternator things to check:
> 
> 1) the alternator needs to be grounded. I can't remember if the alternator grounds through the mount or by a strap to ground. Either way, do a continuity test between the alternator casing and the negative terminal. If there's not ground - fix it.
> 
> ...



^^Thanks for the help :thumbup: :beer:




pheall said:


> im thinking about getting this car. its a *2.2L 16v G60*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


:sly:...pics of that engine plz?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

pheall said:


> im thinking about getting this car. its a 2.2L 16v G60
> 
> 
> 
> ...


1st thing I thought when I saw it was Baby Jai actually finished his Corrado :laugh:



RedYellowWhite said:


> Told ya :laugh:


----------



## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

RedYellowWhite said:


> I think "replacing the alternator is bit overkill tho...I'll just remove it and send it to get repaired"


Here in the states it's tough to find people to rewind alternators and starters anymore. Most of the time you just take them to a parts store and get a "refurbish" one that was been fixed. (Or a new one). 25 years ago it was easy to find a place to do this. 

Now I'm showing my age a bit.

Lloyd


----------



## Enraged007 (Apr 29, 2009)

Hi all! Long time vdubber and the owner of a 1990 G60 Corrado and 1 of (2) Corrado's on my Island, it is rare and special to me. My knowledge is mediocre (but I have a Bently) and skill is decent, I've replaced my power Steering rack (alone) among many other parts.

Looking for advice to a seemingly never ending problem with the coolant temps and possible fan failure. Fan goes on only part of the time. After run fan doesn't seem to be running normally either. High speed fan appears to come on less than low speed. Sitting in traffic for 5 minutes will yield 200 deg. and town runs can jump as high as 250 deg. I've had it get so hot the temp light starts blinking and needle is buried!

SPECS:
Sensor's replaced
Samco Hoses installed
Low Temp Thermostat installed
G-13 (or whichever req. for G-60, can't recall correct fluid # ATM)
Water Wetter
A/C deleted
Heater Core removed/re-routed
Manual Fan turn on switch/wire re-route installed/Un-installed (but I melted my switch, because of an unknown problem, it worked for months before it fried and was a great fix to these temps..)

Idea's for fix:
Need new radiator, Thermostat not opening (but lower hose is hot to touch, so it is opening?), faulty factory wiring, bad ground, fan motor dieing, new sensor's I got are bad..

That's about all i can think of....

I'll name my first baby after you if you can solve this problem!
Thanks dubbers


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Enraged007 said:


> Hi all! Long time vdubber and the owner of a 1990 G60 Corrado and 1 of (2) Corrado's on my Island, it is rare and special to me. My knowledge is mediocre (but I have a Bently) and skill is decent, I've replaced my power Steering rack (alone) among many other parts.
> 
> Looking for advice to a seemingly never ending problem with the coolant temps and possible fan failure. Fan goes on only part of the time. After run fan doesn't seem to be running normally either. High speed fan appears to come on less than low speed. Sitting in traffic for 5 minutes will yield 200 deg. and town runs can jump as high as 250 deg. I've had it get so hot the temp light starts blinking and needle is buried!
> 
> ...


Could be one of a few things, or multiples thereof:

Clogged radiator, buy mine 
Clogged hard line
Bad head gasket
Bad waterpump
Sticking T-stat, happens with new sometimes

There are a ton of cooling threads in the Corrado forum with diagnostic checks you can perform, do some reading in there, or pick up a Bentley :thumbup:


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## Enraged007 (Apr 29, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Could be one of a few things, or multiples thereof:
> 
> Clogged radiator, buy mine
> Clogged hard line
> ...


Clogged radiator, buy mine  - Possible and possible again, asking price shipped to 96743 (Hawaii..) condition, brand name?
Clogged hard line - maybe, but the hose after the hard line is hot with fluid.
Bad head gasket - ugh don't tell me that!! I'm clueless in this area.
Bad waterpump - maybe again.. it was never replaced, does this part go out on occasion, I've heard this is a less than likely reason, I have another one in a box in my garage.
Sticking T-stat, happens with new sometimes. It's about 6-8 months old at this point, but with minimal driving time on it.

I've got a Bently..

Threads tend to run me in circles with no solution and everyone seems to have different issues compared to me...
Picture of the car..I'm the Yellow one


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Enraged007 said:


> Clogged radiator, buy mine  - Possible and possible again, asking price shipped to 96743 (Hawaii..) condition, brand name?
> Clogged hard line - maybe, but the hose after the hard line is hot with fluid.
> Bad head gasket - ugh don't tell me that!! I'm clueless in this area.
> Bad waterpump - maybe again.. it was never replaced, does this part go out on occasion, I've heard this is a less than likely reason, I have another one in a box in my garage.
> ...


I will look into shipping, it is AKG german made with maybe 2 thousand miles

3 things to go check, with the car running at normal operating temp, thermostat open, with the coolant cap off, see if there is a steady stream of coolant entering the coolant bottle from that top little hose, also, once hot, grab both top and bottom coolant lines attached to the rad, they should both be equally hot. Also, touch the radiator in a few spots, should be a consistent temp over the entire rad.

Did you replace your thermoswitch on the radiator?


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## Enraged007 (Apr 29, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I will look into shipping, it is AKG german made with maybe 2 thousand miles
> 
> 3 things to go check, with the car running at normal operating temp, thermostat open, with the coolant cap off, see if there is a steady stream of coolant entering the coolant bottle from that top little hose, also, once hot, grab both top and bottom coolant lines attached to the rad, they should both be equally hot. Also, touch the radiator in a few spots, should be a consistent temp over the entire rad.
> 
> Did you replace your thermoswitch on the radiator?


Yes there's a steady stream via return hose. both top and bottom are equally as hot. As for the radiator, it's too early ATM to test that, girlfriend will wake up and kill me =p I'll check in a few hours, but I can only assume it will have constant temps all over. Thermoswitch replaced. Keep in mind all sensors and switches have been replaced but have a few thousand miles on them..possibly faulty though, I'm ordering new one's just in case.

Any thoughts on *aftermarket* radiators? AKA Godspeed, VR6 model only, but I've seen them modded into a G60 with a little elbow grease and cutting..


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Enraged007 said:


> Yes there's a steady stream via return hose. both top and bottom are equally as hot. As for the radiator, it's too early ATM to test that, girlfriend will wake up and kill me =p I'll check in a few hours, but I can only assume it will have constant temps all over. Thermoswitch replaced. Keep in mind all sensors and switches have been replaced but have a few thousand miles on them..possibly faulty though, I'm ordering new one's just in case.
> 
> Any thoughts on *aftermarket* radiators? AKA Godspeed, VR6 model only, but I've seen them modded into a G60 with a little elbow grease and cutting..


Next thing would be to have the coolant tested for exhaust gasses, i.e. head gasket... It is a simple test tho. Have you noticed "any" white smoke? You can put your hand behind the muffler tip while car is running and warm and see if you get a misting of water on your hand, or notice a sweet smell in the exhaust gas.

People have done the VR aluminum rad mod, but I do not know exactly what is involved, IIRC, it is a couple inches shorter


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## Enraged007 (Apr 29, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Next thing would be to have the coolant tested for exhaust gasses, i.e. head gasket... It is a simple test tho. Have you noticed "any" white smoke? You can put your hand behind the muffler tip while car is running and warm and see if you get a misting of water on your hand, or notice a sweet smell in the exhaust gas.
> 
> People have done the VR aluminum rad mod, but I do not know exactly what is involved, IIRC, it is a couple inches shorter


How does one have the coolant tested for exhaust gases, I assume from a shop? Haven't noticed any "white smoke". Only time I ever noticed a misting of water was the time I lived in the mountains, there was a ton of water in the air there, only happened in the AM 1st start.

I ran the car today on the famous top mountain road here, fastest corners on the island. One word "Amazing" was how she ran today, temps were high under 50 miles an hour though..which leads me to why I'm here today..

Still interested in your radiator possibly gonna run some tests, etc. first..Nice build by the way..


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Enraged007 said:


> How does one have the coolant tested for exhaust gases, I assume from a shop? Haven't noticed any "white smoke". Only time I ever noticed a misting of water was the time I lived in the mountains, there was a ton of water in the air there, only happened in the AM 1st start.
> 
> I ran the car today on the famous top mountain road here, fastest corners on the island. One word "Amazing" was how she ran today, temps were high under 50 miles an hour though..which leads me to why I'm here today..
> 
> Still interested in your radiator possibly gonna run some tests, etc. first..Nice build by the way..


Any automotive shop should be able to do it, or check your local auto parts store for the tester and do it yourself. Is your fan not kicking on? That will certainly cause overheating. Noticed you said something in a previous post about some wiring mods???

Thanks for the props on the build and I will check on shipping later today :thumbup:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

I'm about to tape up my AC blend doors, how many are in there that need repair and I am planning to go with HVAC ducting tape, any comments, ideas or suggestions before I go tearing this thing down?

*too late, itz done*


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Since my knee pad / knee bar thread was locked in an effort to make a decision based on guidence from others, I am going to ask the experts.

I ask that you kindly help me out.

After removing the padding from the knee bar, I noticed that it was only bolted up by 4 bolts (2) on each side. Nothing else is mounted to it from what I see with the dash still on and it also appears to support nothing.

Was this steel tube placed there for a specific reason with regards to safety and/or body stability or can it simply be removed and forgotten?

Please answer this for me as best you can.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

iMD Autos said:


> Since my knee pad / knee bar thread was locked in an effort to make a decision based on guidence from others, I am going to ask the experts.
> 
> I ask that you kindly help me out.
> 
> ...


The knee bar is a safety thing on US cars. More than likely it does provide a bit of support for the car, but it was ment as a safety device.

Euro cars and IIRC canadian cars got the euro parcel trays.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

TheBurninator said:


> The knee bar is a safety thing on US cars. More than likely it does provide a bit of support for the car, but it was ment as a safety device.
> 
> Euro cars and IIRC canadian cars got the euro parcel trays.


Thank you soooo much for answering my question! :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

More like a shin crusher in a front end collision. One more thing I am getting rid of :beer:


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

iMD Autos said:


> Thank you soooo much for answering my question! :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
> 
> More like a shin crusher in a front end collision. One more thing I am getting rid of :beer:


Do it the correct way and get a euro dash and parcel trays.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

TheBurninator said:


> Do it the correct way and get a euro dash and parcel trays.


I will certainly research the parts but I might also custom fabricated covers


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## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> 3 things to go check, with the car running at normal operating temp, thermostat open, with the coolant cap off, see if there is a steady stream of coolant entering the coolant bottle from that top little hose, also, once hot, grab both top and bottom coolant lines attached to the rad, they should both be equally hot. Also, touch the radiator in a few spots, should be a consistent temp over the entire rad.
> 
> Did you replace your thermoswitch on the radiator?


Hey Chad - you just made me think of something. I had talked to you before about the running temp on mine. It runs at normal temp while driving, but when I sit the temps will climb up until the fan kicks on (at the proper temp based on the coolant sensor) and cool things back off. I'm wondering if my thermostat is stuck -- the coolant in the bottle seems to have never circulated. 

How do you do that test without blasting yourself with coolant while he car is running at temp?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

pej said:


> Hey Chad -
> 
> How do you do that test without blasting yourself with coolant while he car is running at temp?


start the car with the coolant cap off


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## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

*Window issues*

Hi my car is a 1990 VW Corrado G60, Anyway I am having an issue with my driver side window . My dad bought me the car from his friend and he said that it's easy but I'm having trouble. I need some help, I have no mechnical experince but I can work a wrench.


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## ZachRabbit (May 19, 2009)

Car: 1990, G60

Issues: ABS doesn't work (P/O says its a valve on the controller?)

Ability: i can do just about anything i'm just really new to Corrado. plus i have access to very experienced mechanics that will help me out if i need it.

1. is the ABS system on these older Corrados better off in the garbage?
2. what are some major issues to be addressed when i first get it if they haven't been taken care of already?

my friend has told me these cars are serious money pits, but what car isn't? i mean...


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## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

Tell us what the window does or doesn't do, and we'll help out. There are LOTS of thread on this too...



Merlin87 said:


> Hi my car is a 1990 VW Corrado G60, Anyway I am having an issue with my driver side window . My dad bought me the car from his friend and he said that it's easy but I'm having trouble. I need some help, I have no mechnical experince but I can work a wrench.


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## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

1. - yes, better in the trash
2. - check the health of the glader - or just send it out for a rebuild if you don't know the history

Yes - these cars a money pits, more then other vw. be prepared!



ZachRabbit said:


> Car: 1990, G60
> 
> Issues: ABS doesn't work (P/O says its a valve on the controller?)
> 
> ...


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## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

how do non abs vaccuum brake boosters work on turbo'd cars?
do you use a external vacuum?


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## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

When I press on the button I just hear this clicking noise coming from the driver's side back seat area? that's it, I opened up the door and I can't get the rivits out!


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## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

How can I do a quick search of all of this window topic???


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jettalvr41 said:


> how do non abs vaccuum brake boosters work on turbo'd cars?
> do you use a external vacuum?


the same way they work on a non turbo car.

You get vacuum from the manifold and there is a check valve on the vacuum line to the booster.


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## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

Search is up in the right hand corner. I searched for "window regulator" in the corrado forum.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/search.php?searchid=6060131

That clicking noise is the window control module. It's a set of relays that power the window regulator (motor) in the door. Since it's clicking, that probably means the window switch is working. (It's doesn't mean the WCM is working 100%) Next step is to test out the window regulator. Pull off the door card (sounds like you did that) and find the harness going to the window regulator. (The harness is close to the hinge part of the door). Unplug the connector to the motor, and apply fused 12v to it. If it looks like the window is going up, then reverse the wires. Be careful not to catch your fingers in the regulator.

If this doesn't work, then the rivets need to be drilled out, and you'll need another regulator. In the search above, check out the thread on the A1 electric replacement regulator, it's better then the original. The regulator/motor is a common part to fail on these cars, but so is the WCM mentioned above.





Merlin87 said:


> When I press on the button I just hear this clicking noise coming from the driver's side back seat area? that's it, I opened up the door and I can't get the rivits out!


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## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

So I applied some power to the motor (the regulator) and now it sounds like it wants to turn move but can't :facepalm:. I also checked out the address you gave me and nothing came up.To make matters even worst I messeed big tome and took the window out of the tray or whatever lifts it up.:banghead:


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## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

no worries. If you've attempted to run the motor (both ways) and the regulator doesn't move, it's shot.

Slide the window up and out of the door, then drill those rivets out to remove the regulator. You can bench test it once it's out to make sure it's shot. In the mean time, you can get creative and find something to jam in the door to hold the window up. I used a bolt through one of the open hole to fix the window up. Is this a project or daily driver?



Merlin87 said:


> So I applied some power to the motor (the regulator) and now it sounds like it wants to turn move but can't :facepalm:. I also checked out the address you gave me and nothing came up.To make matters even worst I messeed big tome and took the window out of the tray or whatever lifts it up.:banghead:


Search link is in the top right hand corner of this site. Not sure why that link doesn't work.


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

cyberstasi said:


> I thought I remember seeing a thread about it before but I cant find it now, so I'll ask here. In order to use Mk4 or newer seats you have to custom make a bracket right?
> I've got a line on a set of really nice power leathers from a B5 Passat that would be uber comfy in my car, but dont know if they'll even fit with fabbing a bracket to mount them.





TheBurninator said:


> B5 seats bold in completely differently than mk2/3/4/corrado.
> 
> Also they will sit WAY too high.





cyberstasi said:


> I take it there's no possible way... well let me rephrase that... no way outside needing a rocket scientist to make a custom mount so they sit lower?





TheBurninator said:


> It isn't like a mk4 where you just need to narrow the bracket and make it sit lower. Which is already a ton of work.
> 
> The mounting and slider setup is completely different.


Sorry to be back at this... but I have one more question then i'll be done with the issue.
I was reading on http://www.originalgermanfolks.com/corrado.htm and I noticed the seat brackets there. Now my question revolves around using one of those with a B5 seat. Yes I realize it wont bolt up, (or will it?) But If I take the B5 seat flip it upside down and cut the OEM mounting bracket and then weld whats left of the seat mount to that OGM plate... that "should" work right? I have an angle grinder and a MIG welder... so I can do that work on my own.
I know perhaps Im beating a dead horse, but I can get these B5 Power Leathers with 3 position memory for 60$ for the pair. I kinda feel I *HAVE* to find a way to use them. :laugh:


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## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

It's a daliy driver untill I find a job and get another car to drive to make this my project car. Idk how to drill out the rivets in this model of car! Everyone keeps telling me to take a drill bit to them but idk what kinda drill peice to use?!?!?!?!?!? Oh and by the way thanks for all the advice sir!!!


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## ArtZ (Jan 23, 2011)

2002 vw gti 337 1.8 turbo 6 speed manual
recently purchased, need to know recommendations for fluids change such as motor oil, tranny oil, power steering and brake fluid. any other advice is also greatly appreciated


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## ZachRabbit (May 19, 2009)

lmurray said:


> 1. - yes, better in the trash
> 2. - check the health of the glader - or just send it out for a rebuild if you don't know the history
> 
> Yes - these cars a money pits, more then other vw. be prepared!


1. ... that's what i was afraid of. well i guess we'll see what we have, the P/O has a ABS controller for me he had to fix what he thinks is the problem... we'll see just how long that lasts 

2. that's one of the things the P/O said needs done. it's one of the first things on my list. any others besides the spoiler being gone through/lubed?


well, i don't plan on making it my daily or anything so hopefully it holds up a little better? heh.


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

ArtZ said:


> 2002 vw gti 337 1.8 turbo 6 speed manual
> recently purchased, need to know recommendations for fluids change such as motor oil, tranny oil, power steering and brake fluid. any other advice is also greatly appreciated


Uhm... You just posted in the Corrado forum. Perhaps you want to post in the 25th Anniversary GTI 337 & 20th Anniversary Jetta GLI Forum


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Merlin87 said:


> It's a daliy driver untill I find a job and get another car to drive to make this my project car. Idk how to drill out the rivets in this model of car! Everyone keeps telling me to take a drill bit to them but idk what kinda drill peice to use?!?!?!?!?!? Oh and by the way thanks for all the advice sir!!!


Just a drill bit dood, drill those sukkers out, not a big deal, can replace with screws...



ArtZ said:


> 2002 vw gti 337 1.8 turbo 6 speed manual
> recently purchased, need to know recommendations for fluids change such as motor oil, tranny oil, power steering and brake fluid. any other advice is also greatly appreciated


Wrong forum dood


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## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

So in my 93 SLC the floor just in front of the passenger seat keeps getting fairly damp. I'm pretty certain it is just rain water as I do not see/smell coolant (thankfully/hopefully). I've checked the scuttle drain and it seems clear. Should I check that further? Is there anything else that could cause that besides heater core?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> So in my 93 SLC the floor just in front of the passenger seat keeps getting fairly damp. I'm pretty certain it is just rain water as I do not see/smell coolant (thankfully/hopefully). I've checked the scuttle drain and it seems clear. Should I check that further? Is there anything else that could cause that besides heater core?


Double check the drains in the rain tray area. Also if the seal on the heater intake is bad then it will let water in regardless of the drains being clear.

I would also check the sunroof drains.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Double check the drains in the rain tray area. Also if the seal on the heater intake is bad then it will let water in regardless of the drains being clear.
> 
> I would also check the sunroof drains.


Burnsy, are you talking about the fresh air inlet? and if so, the seal on top of the HVAC box? I tried to get some foam tape in there but with the clearance being so tight on the install, the tape came off, there and on the top of the tunnel :banghead:


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Burnsy, are you talking about the fresh air inlet? and if so, the seal on top of the HVAC box? I tried to get some foam tape in there but with the clearance being so tight on the install, the tape came off, there and on the top of the tunnel :banghead:


The fresh air inlet. You can still buy the factory foam tape seal for it. :thumbup:

Gasket for the top for the HVAC box
191820129

Gasket for the air inlet:
191819166

The first one cross references with everything under the sun for about a 20 year span.

The second one cross references all mk2/corrado.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> The fresh air inlet. You can still buy the factory foam tape seal for it. :thumbup:
> 
> Gasket for the top for the HVAC box
> 191820129
> ...


Thanks Burnsy, can you PM or post a pic of the ETKA sheet? Calling 1stvw about some other stuff today and wanna make sure we're on the same page, unlike the shift tower :sly:.........:laugh:


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Thanks Burnsy, can you PM or post a pic of the ETKA sheet? .........


Chad, ETKA link I send you not working? ....


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Chad, ETKA link I send you not working? ....


I couldn't find where I saved it, can you shoot me the link again, Thanks Nick :thumbup:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I couldn't find where I saved it, can you shoot me the link again, Thanks Nick :thumbup:


Nick, I did find it, weird it was in alphabetical order, but don't have a log-in & password to view the pics


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Nick, I did find it, weird it was in alphabetical order, but don't have a log-in & password to view the pics


Okay, forgot I had another link saved for good usernames and passwords...


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

#26 and #27


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> #26 and #27


Thanks Burnsy, didn't know there were 2 seals and still having an issue locating the recirc air vent(I think) at the top front of the tunnel, it may be for the floor vents?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Thanks Burnsy, didn't know there were 2 seals and still having an issue locating the recirc air vent(I think) at the top front of the tunnel, it may be for the floor vents?


Recirc air vent?

Recirc is just the flap above the blower motor. When it closes off the fresh air intake. I dunno about a vent for it.

Are you looking for the seal for the pieces that sit on the tunnel?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Recirc air vent?
> 
> Recirc is just the flap above the blower motor. When it closes off the fresh air intake. I dunno about a vent for it.
> 
> Are you looking for the seal for the pieces that sit on the tunnel?


Ya, I didn't know if the opening on the top of the tunnel is the one that pulls air from inside the cabin? Yes, looking for the one that mates up to the vents on top of the tunnel


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Ya, I didn't know if the opening on the top of the tunnel is the one that pulls air from inside the cabin? Yes, looking for the one that mates up to the vents on top of the tunnel


191819846

I can get the diagram if you need it.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> 191819846
> 
> I can get the diagram if you need it.


Not needed if we "are" on the same page 

Thanks bro :beer:


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Not needed if we "are" on the same page
> 
> Thanks bro :beer:


Gasket that sits between the foot ducts on the tunnel and the main airbox unit. :thumbup:

Pretty sure we are on the same page :laugh:


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## Supersamson (Dec 8, 2009)

So the search pointed me to this thread and I made it through the first 15 pages or so looking for my answer, I'm sure its probably somewhere in the next 100 pages but all that reading is making my head hurt :banghead: 

Call me lazy for not reading all 116 pages but at least I didn't start a new thread. 

92 SLC (distributor) crack pipe needs to go . I'm going to have it replaced with the billet one (http://tinyurl.com/4hbrcds) My question is are there specific hoses or things not included in the kit I should order up to have replaced while they're in there? 

I did find the DIY write up but it seemed to just cover what was in the kit. Being that its 20 degrees outside and I don't have a garage this isn't a DIY situation for me so I'm I'm gonna be forking over the cash to have them dig around in there I want to make sure I address any other maintenance stuff while they're in there. 

Thanks in advance


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Supersamson said:


> So the search pointed me to this thread and I made it through the first 15 pages or so looking for my answer, I'm sure its probably somewhere in the next 100 pages but all that reading is making my head hurt :banghead:
> 
> Call me lazy for not reading all 116 pages but at least I didn't start a new thread.
> 
> ...


Most of those crackpipes come come with two sets of hardware. One to plug any unused ports if you are running an oil cooler, and another set if you are using the factory setup.

Do a thermostat while you are in there. And replace the plastic thermostat housing. (they are cheap)
You may want to do the water pump since you are at it too.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Gasket that sits between the foot ducts on the tunnel and the main airbox unit. :thumbup:
> 
> Pretty sure we are on the same page :laugh:


:thumbup:.........:beer::beer:



Supersamson said:


> So the search pointed me to this thread and I made it through the first 15 pages or so looking for my answer, I'm sure its probably somewhere in the next 100 pages but all that reading is making my head hurt :banghead:
> 
> Call me lazy for not reading all 116 pages but at least I didn't start a new thread.
> 
> ...


No need to search this thread, this is the "ask all" thread, no matter if it has been covered already :thumbup:


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Chad, ETKA link I send you not working? ....


if we're passing out links to a working version of ETKA.... I know "someone" who'd really like a copy. :laugh:


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> if we're passing out links to a working version of ETKA.... I know "someone" who'd really like a copy. :laugh:


Im sure you would.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> if we're passing out links to a working version of ETKA.... I know "someone" who'd really like a copy. :laugh:


he sent me vagcat, here is a link to help...

http://the-corrado.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=50260


----------



## seguro80 (Jan 24, 2011)

*my mess of a corrado*

hey whats up . i just bought a 1990 corrado g60. i just sold my 318ti and i compleatly took it a part and rebuilt the car. idk wher to even get started with this corrado. im a vw guy but damm what a mess. 

i need assistance on websites wher i can get parts preffer cheaper lol parts.
i want to rewire the car because it has so many wires that arent even hooked up right now
so i want a complete wiring harness(engine) so i can re do all the bells and wistles on it too
im not going performance until i get it all back to oem specs

i need 
good websites for parts
any input on the (been done before) changing of the fuse box and rewiring the car

i will be pulling the engine and replacing all seals hoses and gaskets when i get the wiring started 

thank you for your help


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

seguro80 said:


> hey whats up . i just bought a 1990 corrado g60. i just sold my 318ti and i compleatly took it a part and rebuilt the car. idk wher to even get started with this corrado. im a vw guy but damm what a mess.
> 
> i need assistance on websites wher i can get parts preffer cheaper lol parts.
> i want to rewire the car because it has so many wires that arent even hooked up right now
> ...


our forum sponsor fourseasontuning, germanautoparts.com

For the fuse block, there will always be extra wires not connected to anything. I suggest getting a bentley and reading through the wiring diagrams in that. They will be helpful.

Great mindset of getting it back to working condition before modding the **** out of it. :thumbup:


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## seguro80 (Jan 24, 2011)

*mess of a rado*

thanks for the quick reply

this car is all spiced and cut to crap so im not really gonna get into finding everything or wher it goes . who ever had this car before me just cut and tapped and spliced i hate ppl that do that do it right or dont do it at all

thanks again i will be checking out them web sites


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## Supersamson (Dec 8, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Most of those crackpipes come come with two sets of hardware. One to plug any unused ports if you are running an oil cooler, and another set if you are using the factory setup.
> 
> Do a thermostat while you are in there. And replace the plastic thermostat housing. (they are cheap)
> You may want to do the water pump since you are at it too.


cool thanks for the help


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

cyberstasi said:


> if we're passing out links to a working version of ETKA.... I know "someone" who'd really like a copy. :laugh:


 PM send...enjoy


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

I would like a PM too. K Thanx.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> I would like a PM too. K Thanx.


 For sure bud :thumbup:


----------



## like20girls (Jun 24, 2010)

i no this a noobie question. but where would i buy a replacement intake tube. i want a metal one.. the one that connects to the charger...


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

like20girls said:


> i no this a noobie question. but where would i buy a replacement intake tube. i want a metal one.. the one that connects to the charger...


 BBM, Bar-Tek, Neuspeed, but the nice one is the eurosport which is NLA...


----------



## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

> , Bar-Tek, Neuspeed, but the nice one is the eurosport which is NLA...


 where would I be able to get more eurosport stuff?? I love my intake I just want a blue one!!


----------



## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> BBM, Bar-Tek, Neuspeed, but the nice one is the eurosport which is NLA...


 where would I be able to get more eurosport stuff?? I love my intake I just want a blue one!!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Merlin87 said:


> where would I be able to get more eurosport stuff?? I love my intake I just want a blue one!!


 Umm.. paint it then. IIRC eurosport only does bare aluminum, polished, or black powder coating. 

Personally I think all the colorful crap in engine bays looks horrible.


----------



## ZachRabbit (May 19, 2009)

here's a list of things i'm going to go through: 

compression check 
G-lader rebuild 
clutch replacement 
tune up (plugs, wires, fuel filter, cap & rotor, air filter) 
timing belt & tensioner depending on when the P/O last replaced it. 
check wheel bearings 
check boots on CV, ball joints, etc. 
take apart the spoiler assy and clean/lube 


any other parts i'm missing that should get my attention on a Rado? 
(decided i'm probably ditching the ABS)


----------



## seguro80 (Jan 24, 2011)

*mess of a rado*

ok so im working or the wiring of this car wich is a mess 
 
i found a lot of cables sliced and disconected i want to get all this mess sorted out before i move on to the engine and i found this under the dash between the center and sterring colum any clues on what it is???it was disconected with no slice and it has 2 other connections one i found goes to the sterring wiring and the other idk wher it goes 
:banghead:


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

TheBurninator said:


> the same way they work on a non turbo car.
> 
> You get vacuum from the manifold and there is a check valve on the vacuum line to the booster.


 k cool i wondered if that would work. still have brake boost under turbo load though right. i know MKIV 1.8t 20v's did it that way so it must work lol


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

Should my headlight switch light up green when full on? It turns on amber on city lights, but turns off when I turn the headlights on. Just curious.


----------



## ZachRabbit (May 19, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Umm.. paint it then. IIRC eurosport only does bare aluminum, polished, or black powder coating.
> 
> Personally I think all the colorful crap in engine bays looks horrible.


 x2..... black and silver, maybe colored plug wires....and of course if you go K & N filter or something that's colored... but that's about it.


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

I am a little puzzled.. I have this chatter coming from the area of the transmission. When I push in the clutch it goes away. Initially I thought it was a throw out bearing, as did many others here on vortex. I had the clutch flywheel and throw out bearing replaced. The first drive after the repairs were made the noise was still there. Six months later the noise is the same. I dont drive it that much. maybe 3000 miles last year. Chatter hasnt gotten any worse. Any Ideas? I am leaning toward the bearing being bad right out of the box. I tried to capture some audio on my cell phone. I can get some better quality tomorrow if needed. In the video I push in the clutch and the noise disappears. Its a VR btw.


----------



## seguro80 (Jan 24, 2011)

yeah mine does that too full on the light turns off


----------



## paul610 (Oct 26, 2010)

hi everyone im paul. i got a 1990 corrado vr swap and the kid i bought it from half assed pretty much everything so i am kinda cleaning her up right now. but i was wondering how much a full r32 4motion swap would cost and what parts would be the best to use :screwy: 

and is there anyone near easton pa that is good at pulling/rolling fenders?:thumbup: 
:beer::beer:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

seguro80 said:


> ok so im working or the wiring of this car wich is a mess
> 
> i found a lot of cables sliced and disconected i want to get all this mess sorted out before i move on to the engine and i found this under the dash between the center and sterring colum any clues on what it is???it was disconected with no slice and it has 2 other connections one i found goes to the sterring wiring and the other idk wher it goes
> :banghead:


 I believe that may be your alarm box, you need to refer to your Bentley manual for 100% verification.



[email protected] said:


> Should my headlight switch light up green when full on? It turns on amber on city lights, but turns off when I turn the headlights on. Just curious.


 Yes, its supposed too, but the LED might be burnt out. 


ItsNotaScirocco said:


> I am a little puzzled.. I have this chatter coming from the area of the transmission. When I push in the clutch it goes away. Initially I thought it was a throw out bearing, as did many others here on vortex. I had the clutch flywheel and throw out bearing replaced. The first drive after the repairs were made the noise was still there. Six months later the noise is the same. I dont drive it that much. maybe 3000 miles last year. Chatter hasnt gotten any worse. Any Ideas? I am leaning toward the bearing being bad right out of the box. I tried to capture some audio on my cell phone. I can get some better quality tomorrow if needed. In the video I push in the clutch and the noise disappears. Its a VR btw.


 If you have lightened flywheel, that is your chatter. I would start with a TO bearing first as it is the cheapest. 


paul610 said:


> hi everyone im paul. i got a 1990 corrado vr swap and the kid i bought it from half assed pretty much everything so i am kinda cleaning her up right now. but i was wondering how much a full r32 4motion swap would cost and what parts would be the best to use :screwy:
> 
> and is there anyone near easton pa that is good at pulling/rolling fenders?:thumbup:
> :beer::beer:


 .:R32 swap will run you close to $20k or more if you aren't doing the work yourself. It is not a straght forward swap, and getting the parts to run AWD for the rear are needed from cars never offered in the US. That $20K will become $30K very fast.


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

Awesome, now I have an excuse to go led crazy in my interior. Sweet.:laugh:


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

Also, like the other post, I have some rattly noise when the clutch is not depressed. It doesn't sound as loud or pronounced as the video, but I also have a lightened flywheel so I s'pose that is it? I just don't understand how a lightened flywheel would make noise like that. 

Also, I just had a throwout and clutch installed about 1k ago.


----------



## paul610 (Oct 26, 2010)

mine as well just buy an r32 lol. what about a AWD vr6 set up? if thats possiable


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

paul610 said:


> mine as well just buy an r32 lol. what about a AWD vr6 set up? if thats possiable


 Yep... possible... 

cheap? no 
Easy to find the parts? deff not


----------



## Hemingway'sToe (Feb 13, 2009)

seguro80 said:


> yeah mine does that too full on the light turns off


 x3


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Hemingway'sToe said:


> x3


 e-codes? "cough" eurowires mod "cough"


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> If you have lightened flywheel, that is your chatter. I would start with a TO bearing first as it is the cheapest.


 This noise was there before lightened flywheel. I just did the flywheel and clutch cause I was in there doing the TO bearing.


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

Okay, well I bought my C with ecodes installed (if I did it they wouldn't be G60 models). Anyway, does that have something to do with the reason why my green led doesn't light up?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Okay, well I bought my C with ecodes installed (if I did it they wouldn't be G60 models). Anyway, does that have something to do with the reason why my green led doesn't light up?


 mine didn't after I made the eurowires mod in the switch, you have to move one wire lead to another port, IIRC a white wire, so the city lights work properly  

I was thinking you could run a jumper or something to re-illuminate the LED, but haven't really looked into it, doesn't bother me much...


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

paul610 said:


> mine as well just buy an r32 lol. what about a AWD vr6 set up? if thats possiable


 The .:R32 Motor is a VR6 version, that part is easy (kind of for some people), AWD is the insane expensive part. You really need to read the Syncro 4 Motion forums for previous projects. There are a few FWD 3.2 Corrado's around, and some 2.8 24v's too. Build thread list, top of forum, if it's been updated. :beer:

As for the H/L switch, I have switches with 2 different colors, one amber, one green and the light bulb in the center of the switch is also supposed to light up on the 93 + models. I have only seen one working properly in my friends car back in 1999-2000......Mycurrent new switch only shows green, and have the Eurowires conversion harness. If I figure it out, I'll let you know. The one in the center of the switch will blow peoples minds, but have seen it working Twice. :banghead: :laugh:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> This noise was there before lightened flywheel. I just did the flywheel and clutch cause I was in there doing the TO bearing.


 If you havent changed the fluid, then start there before you go pulling it out. Mileage is also a factor on noise.


----------



## ZachRabbit (May 19, 2009)

ZachRabbit said:


> here's a list of things i'm going to go through:
> 
> compression check
> G-lader rebuild
> ...


 
i'd appreciate a reply to this please... not to be rude but it does say this is a thread for noobies to ask questions not a "noobies get one question a piece" thread....


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

ZachRabbit said:


> i'd appreciate a reply to this please... not to be rude but it does say this is a thread for noobies to ask questions not a "noobies get one question a piece" thread....


 It was kind of a ridiculous post man :screwy: *EVERYTHING* needs to be addressed with these cars and without knowing what you have or have not done it is almost impossible to answer.


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> It was kind of a ridiculous post man :screwy: *EVERYTHING* needs to be addressed with these cars and without knowing what you have or have not done it is almost impossible to answer.


 I agree here. Its hard to answer a question that general. If you would like a "response" I can say this: 

That looks like a good list, you have your work cut out for you. If you have other questions, be sure to post them up. 

One other thing I would add is to check electrical consumption so that you verify that your car isn't inadvertently draining your battery.


----------



## ZachRabbit (May 19, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> It was kind of a ridiculous post man :screwy: *EVERYTHING* needs to be addressed with these cars and without knowing what you have or have not done it is almost impossible to answer.


 not really that ridiculous, i made a list of things i was going to check, and asked if i was missing anything common that goes wrong with these cars. i'm not asking you to list EVERYTHING i should check, just the most common problems that would hinder the car's DECENT functionability until i run into something i can ask a better question on. 



TheLateJetta said:


> That looks like a good list, you have your work cut out for you. If you have other questions, be sure to post them up.
> 
> One other thing I would add is to check electrical consumption so that you verify that your car isn't inadvertently draining your battery.


 i'm not really sure what was so hard about giving a response like this the first time (from other people on here), but thanks man. i'll add that to the list and then come back when i've got that stuff done, if i run into any problems.


----------



## Lorenmws (Nov 29, 2008)

How do you write a rule in standard algebraic notation for a function


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

ZachRabbit said:


> not really that ridiculous, i made a list of things i was going to check, and asked if i was missing anything common that goes wrong with these cars. i'm not asking you to list EVERYTHING i should check, just the most common problems that would hinder the car's DECENT functionability until i run into something i can ask a better question on.


 :facepalm: Still man, without knowing, WHAT HAS BEEN DONE SO FAR, it is impossible to give "any" direction and also depending on budget, these cars are old and you need to either piece it together by fixing what is wrong with it, or simply disassemble it all and address EVERYTHING, just like I said PERIOD 

But here are my recommendations for the sake of you calling me an idiot 

Rebuild the motor and head 
Rebuild the G-ladder 
Replace all boost tubes and intercooler 
Replace exhaust 
Replace coolant system 
Replace all sensors 
Replace all wiring 
All new suspension components 
Replace steering rack 
Replace spoiler 
Replace sunroof 
Replace window regulators 
Complete respray 
Buy high quality wheels and slam it to da ground 
Re-upholster entire interior 

oh and most importantly, new wiper blades :thumbup: 

Better :facepalm:


----------



## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> :facepalm: Still man, without knowing, WHAT HAS BEEN DONE SO FAR, it is impossible to give "any" direction and also depending on budget, these cars are old and you need to either piece it together by fixing what is wrong with it, or simply disassemble it all and address EVERYTHING, just like I said PERIOD
> 
> But here are my recommendations for the sake of you calling me an idiot
> 
> ...


 
*Replace window regulators* UNDERSTATEMENT OF THE CENTURY LOL :banghead: 
BUT WELL PUT I need to take this for my self!!!!


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> :facepalm: Still man, without knowing, WHAT HAS BEEN DONE SO FAR, it is impossible to give "any" direction and also depending on budget, these cars are old and you need to either piece it together by fixing what is wrong with it, or simply disassemble it all and address EVERYTHING, just like I said PERIOD
> 
> But here are my recommendations for the sake of you calling me an idiot
> 
> ...


 
^^Good list :thumbup: sounds cheap too :sly:....... 

_...you forgot: replace oe door handle strickers with upgraded items _


----------



## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^Good list :thumbup: sounds cheap too :sly:.......
> 
> _...you forgot: replace oe door handle strickers with upgraded items _


 like what kinda upgrade item


----------



## ZachRabbit (May 19, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> :facepalm: Still man, without knowing, WHAT HAS BEEN DONE SO FAR, it is impossible to give "any" direction and also depending on budget, these cars are old and you need to either piece it together by fixing what is wrong with it, or simply disassemble it all and address EVERYTHING, just like I said PERIOD
> 
> But here are my recommendations for the sake of you calling me an idiot
> 
> ...


 never said you were an idiot, and i realize the best option is to restore these cars... which i'm going to do... i just want to get it functioning for now until i have my motor rebuild parts to start out with.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Merlin87 said:


> like what kinda upgrade item


 



 
:wave:


----------



## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

thank you man  !!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^Good list :thumbup: sounds cheap too :sly:.......
> 
> _...you forgot: replace oe door handle strickers with upgraded items _


 Damn, I knew I forgot something :banghead:......:laugh:


----------



## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

where can I find a cheap replacement "seat tilter" the one found underneathe the oem seat??


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

Merlin87 said:


> thank you man  !!


 Do the handle upgrade before you have to use your hatch to get it and out of the car! :banghead:


----------



## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

pej said:


> Do the handle upgrade before you have to use your hatch to get it and out of the car! :banghead:


 lol don't tell me that happened to you lol?? yeah I have to get in on the other side lol


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

Merlin87 said:


> lol don't tell me that happened to you lol?? yeah I have to get in on the other side lol


 I didn't let it get that far - luckily my pass side broke first but right then I did the fix on both sides.


----------



## jarski (Oct 30, 2009)

Does anyone know if you can install a pre-93 sunroof panel into a post-93 car?


----------



## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

pej said:


> I didn't let it get that far - luckily my pass side broke first but right then I did the fix on both sides.


 lol well I'll sure be on here complaining about it lol


----------



## pug_nasty (Jun 17, 2009)

Maybe a stupid question but....I just picked up some porsche d90s for a steal. The fronts are marked 6 and the rears are marked 8, but when I actually measure them theyre 7 and 9. I dont want to get the wrong size adapters so I need to know what gives. Thx


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

You're only measure from the inside of the lips and barrels. Not from the edge. What do the backs of the rim say? They aren't 3 piece so whatever is stamped on there must be true.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Merlin87 said:


> where can I find a cheap replacement "seat tilter" the one found underneathe the oem seat??


 I may be able to get you a Passat B3 one from the junkyard tomorrow, which side do you need? All you would have to do is pay for the actual part and shipping, should be REAL cheap, LMK :thumbup: 



jarski said:


> Does anyone know if you can install a pre-93 sunroof panel into a post-93 car?


 yes :thumbup:


----------



## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I may be able to get you a Passat B3 one from the junkyard tomorrow, which side do you need? All you would have to do is pay for the actual part and shipping, should be REAL cheap, LMK :thumbup:yes :thumbup:


 

driver side like the one with the hole on it?? and I think I need the metal part that the screw fits into, my dad ripped it completely off brreaking the plastic and the metal!! 

thanks though that is no problem


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Merlin87 said:


> driver side like the one with the hole on it?? and I think I need the metal part that the screw fits into, my dad ripped it completely off brreaking the plastic and the metal!!
> 
> thanks though that is no problem


 I will grab it tomorrow, can't see the part being more than like 3 bukks :thumbup:


----------



## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I will grab it tomorrow, can't see the part being more than like 3 bukks :thumbup:


 dude I thank you here give me a text when you pick it up and how much will it cost me and such


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Merlin87 said:


> dude I thank you here give me a text when you pick it up and how much will it cost me and such


 :thumbup:


----------



## Kouga's GLI (Oct 19, 2004)

need some help on where to start looking for this one... 

car is a 93, slc, vr6. Motor has roughly 130-140k on it and I just installed it last month. 

Started the car this morning after it had sat outside for the night and it started up fine. Let it warm up for about 5 minutes before heading to work. When I pulled out of my neighborhood and heard a squealing/grinding noise similar to a slipping belt. The pitch increased with the revs. I turned around and pulled up to my drive to pop the hood and have a look. The noise was intermittent at idle. When I started poking around, the noise wasn't coming from the serpentine belt, instead coming from the side where the water-pump/alternator is. I drove the car to my office with no issues. The noise went away while driving and the car drove normal, no over-heating or loss of voltage. The noise wasn't as noticeable at idle either, but could still hear and intermittent grind if I had the window down. When I left the office today, the car started fine again with the intermittent noise hardly noticeable now. When I free revved the car, the noise went away. Car drove home fine too, with no issues. 

When I got home, I moved one of my cars out of the garage to pull the Corrado in and poked around some more with the car running still. The intermittent grinding noise was there, and it "pulsates" while the car idles...it's not constant but kind of lopes with the idle of the car. I tried to pinpoint the origin of the sound, and it seems to be coming from the where the ABS module is. 

The other issue I've been having, that may or may not be related to the above issue, is that when I leave the car idling for awhile or I'm sitting in traffic, the temp gauge goes up a little, sometimes getting to the 200* mark, the hottest it has ever got was between the 200* mark, and the little mark before 230*. Of course, once I start driving, the temp goes back down to the 160* mark and stays there. Today, when I was looking around the bay for the origin of the noise, I would check the temp gauge periodically. The car was probably idling for 5-10min, and the temp gauge got to the 200* mark and I noticed my fans weren't turning on, but I'm not sure how hot the temp needs to be for the fans to turn on. What temp should they turn on at, and how can I test to see if my fans are turning on at all? 

Some background info on the car: When I installed the new motor, I used the water pump, alternator, and starter off the old motor that was in the car, all of which had been replaced within the last two years and had less than 20,000 miles on them. I also replaced the crack-pipe, but noticed the thermostat housing had a very small leak (literally barely drips and coolant level has never dropped a noticeable amount), so I left it. 

So, can anyone help me trace this intermittent grinding noise and tell me how I can test my fans? 

cliffs: new VR developed intermittent grinding noise at idle after ~1400 miles coming from the ABS module area, and radiator fans don't seem to turn on. 

THANK YOU! :wave:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Kouga's GLI said:


> need some help on where to start looking for this one...
> 
> car is a 93, slc, vr6. Motor has roughly 130-140k on it and I just installed it last month.
> 
> ...


 Timing chains and guides for 400 trebek


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

I am installing bfi mount kit. Everything has been going good and I get to the last bolt on the trans mount. The bolt closest to the firewall. What is the trick to get that bolt out? There is absolutly no room to get a wrench, socket etc, let alone turn it. I didnt really try to hard because I was leaving my shop within minutes of this issue. I may have missed the obvious here. So any tips? 

Also I found this wire harness laying under the air box. Anyone know where this goes? I dont see anything to plug it into, and it looks broken.


----------



## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

does anyone have an oem picture of the undernneathe of a driver side seat?? The metal part that should be atthed to this piece


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> I am installing bfi mount kit. Everything has been going good and I get to the last bolt on the trans mount. The bolt closest to the firewall. What is the trick to get that bolt out? There is absolutly no room to get a wrench, socket etc, let alone turn it. I didnt really try to hard because I was leaving my shop within minutes of this issue. I may have missed the obvious here. So any tips?
> 
> Also I found this wire harness laying under the air box. Anyone know where this goes? I dont see anything to plug it into, and it looks broken.


 I used a super long extension and IIRC a wobble bit... 

What is shown in the pic is the ambient air temp sender, it should be mounted in your passenger side brake duct


----------



## Kouga's GLI (Oct 19, 2004)

TheBurninator said:


> Timing chains and guides for 400 trebek


 ugh, really??? You would think the noise would get louder as I revved the motor instead of disappear. I also just did an oil change and checked the oil for any pieces of the guides and the oil was clean. The noise is similar to when a pump isn't getting any fluid through it. Really hope it's not the chains/guides. 

edit: yep, I looked up "timing chain nose" on youtube...pretty much what it sounds like.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Kouga's GLI said:


> ugh, really??? You would think the noise would get louder as I revved the motor instead of disappear. I also just did an oil change and checked the oil for any pieces of the guides and the oil was clean. The noise is similar to when a pump isn't getting any fluid through it. Really hope it's not the chains/guides.
> 
> edit: yep, I looked up "timing chain nose" on youtube...pretty much what it sounds like.


 Does it go away when you engage the clutch? If it goes away when you put the clutch in then it is throwout bearing.


----------



## Kouga's GLI (Oct 19, 2004)

TheBurninator said:


> Does it go away when you engage the clutch? If it goes away when you put the clutch in then it is throwout bearing.


 the noise goes away if I put it in gear. If I put it in neutral, and let the clutch out, the noise comes back.


----------



## Kouga's GLI (Oct 19, 2004)

Guess one more thing to add is that the noise goes away after driving.. But after sitting for awhile, when I start it, it makes the noise. It does sound like chain rattle though.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Kouga's GLI said:


> the noise goes away if I put it in gear. If I put it in neutral, and let the clutch out, the noise comes back.


 Throwout bearing


----------



## like20girls (Jun 24, 2010)

Diy: for a nuespeed front stress bar? :/


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

like20girls said:


> Diy: for a nuespeed front stress bar? :/


 Jack the car up and support equally from both sides, place bar in appropriate position, mark and drill holes, bolt up and set back down :thumbup:


----------



## like20girls (Jun 24, 2010)

Thanks . Any pics of someone who's has it installed?


----------



## hi_racing (Jul 6, 2004)

like20girls said:


> Thanks . Any pics of someone who's has it installed?


 Lousy pic but the best one I have at work - Let me know if you want me to take another at home tonight. 










I don't recall the instruction to jack it up before installing but TBH it's been sooooo many years ago I may have killed all the little grey cells that remembered that part.  

Peace!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

hi_racing said:


> I don't recall the instruction to jack it up before installing but TBH it's been sooooo many years ago I may have killed all the little grey cells that remembered that part.
> 
> Peace!


 Good idea to pre load, somewhat


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Jacking up the car makes the sides drop thus when placed back on ground with the bar installed, it is actually applying structural force. 

Without jacking it up, makes a strut bar show only.


----------



## like20girls (Jun 24, 2010)

hi_racing said:


> Lousy pic but the best one I have at work - Let me know if you want me to take another at home tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Thanks for the pic if you don't mind taking another ? It would be greatly appreciated. I just want to see where exactly to place and drill the holes :thumbsup:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Jacking up the car makes the sides drop thus when placed back on ground with the bar installed, it is actually applying structural force.
> 
> Without jacking it up, makes a strut bar show only.


 :thumbup: :wave:


----------



## like20girls (Jun 24, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Jacking up the car makes the sides drop thus when placed back on ground with the bar installed, it is actually applying structural force.
> 
> Without jacking it up, makes a strut bar show only.


 I get it  would I have to jack the whole car on all fours or just the front will dooo?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

like20girls said:


> I get it  would I have to jack the whole car on all fours or just the front will dooo?


 Just the front, you wanna take the stress off the front towers :thumbup: Just make sure you have stands under it at the same location to prevent any twisting of the frame


----------



## pug_nasty (Jun 17, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> You're only measure from the inside of the lips and barrels. Not from the edge. What do the backs of the rim say? They aren't 3 piece so whatever is stamped on there must be true.


 Awesome thx man. Now if I use an offset calculator like this: 
 Wheel Offset Calculator , 
do you think I should put the lip to lip measurement to get the most accurate fitment? 
I know how much you guys love wheel fitment questions :laugh:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

pug_nasty said:


> Awesome thx man. Now if I use an offset calculator like this:
> Wheel Offset Calculator ,
> do you think I should put the lip to lip measurement to get the most accurate fitment?
> I know how much you guys love wheel fitment questions :laugh:


 Nope, use the ET and Width on the back of the rim. :beer:


----------



## like20girls (Jun 24, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Just the front, you wanna take the stress off the front towers :thumbup: Just make sure you have stands under it at the same location to prevent any twisting of the frame


 Sweet I shall do this tomorrow morning. I have work soon ;p 
I installed my rear stress bar (eurosport) ,crazy enough I feel the difference. Haha ^.^


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Nope, use the ET and Width on the back of the rim. :beer:


 And compare it to the specs of the wheels you have on the car with the calculator


----------



## pug_nasty (Jun 17, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> And compare it to the specs of the wheels you have on the car with the calculator


 Cool thx guys. :thumbup:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

like20girls said:


> Sweet I shall do this tomorrow morning. I have work soon ;p
> I installed my rear stress bar (eurosport) ,crazy enough I feel the difference. Haha ^.^


 you will feel it in the back more than you feel it in the front :laugh:


----------



## like20girls (Jun 24, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> you will feel it in the back more than you feel it in the front :laugh:


 Thts what she said :laugh:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

like20girls said:


> Thts what she said :laugh:


 I hope thatz not what "shez" sayin :laugh:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Nope, use the ET and *clearance* on the back of the rim. :beer:


 fixed


----------



## like20girls (Jun 24, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I hope thatz not what "shez" sayin :laugh:


 :laugh: jk, but goood one :thumbsup:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

like20girls said:


> :laugh: jk, but goood one :thumbsup:


 ..........HHAAHHAA :laugh:


----------



## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

like20girls said:


> :laugh: jk, but goood one :thumbsup:


 *FAIL* I love forums, since I'm on here!! I am hearing a "tinking" sound at idle underneithe my car, I am unsure of what it is? some one told me it was jsut my exsut is loose? tell me what ya'll think??opcorn:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Merlin87 said:


> *FAIL* I love forums, since I'm on here!! I am hearing a "tinking" sound at idle underneithe my car, I am unsure of what it is? some one told me it was jsut my exsut is loose? tell me what ya'll think??opcorn:


 could really be anything bro...


----------



## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> could really be anything bro...


 yeah I haven't looked underneathe it yet but this is all after I let my brother drive and he was going to fast over a speed bump, something scraped but I didn't check right away to find out what it was.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Merlin87 said:


> yeah I haven't looked underneathe it yet but this is all after I let my brother drive and he was going to fast over a speed bump, something scraped but I didn't check right away to find out what it was.


 I hope the lesson is learned, "never let another non-Corrado ownder drive the C"


----------



## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I hope the lesson is learned, "never let another non-Corrado ownder drive the C"


 Yes lol yes it is sir lol:banghead:


----------



## Zorn1 (Jul 31, 2008)

what is the purpose of the bracket that must be removed to get to the thermostat? the one by the power steering pump?


----------



## Slowrrado (Jan 13, 2004)

WIRING EXPERTS!! HALP! 

Im trying to get my SDS EM-4 to communicate with tach using a MSD 8920 unit, am I on the right track or all kinds of :facepalm: 

Please follow along with these tools: 

http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html 
Using Fuse box wiring harness G1 
G1/12 Ignition Coil Pin 1 (all Mk2, most others '90 only), ECU tach signal (all 91+ except Mk2) Tachometer Red/Black (coil) or Green/Black (ECU) 

http://www.msdignition.com/uploadedFiles/MSDIgnitioncom/Products/Accessories/8920_instructions.pdf 

----------------------------------------------------------- 
Here is what i got in my head.


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

So my heat has been very weak since I bought the Corrado, and I had my car at a shop last week.. for other reasons, but they replaced the thermostat and the heat is still very weak. They said it's at 190 at the radiator, could the problem be a busted heater core or would I have some serious leakage problems if that were the case? 

As you can probably tell I don't know a whole lot about how the heating system works, but I'd like to figure out what's wrong so I can fix the problem


----------



## JMAVG60 (Aug 5, 2010)

I am trying to figure out what the Heck is wrong with this mk2 jetta with a g60 swap that i just bought. I am attempting to figure out what sensors are missing.  The car has spark (new plugs, wires, cap rotor ), it is getting fuel and its getting air. Supposedly it has BBM stage 3 kit in the motor but dont believe it as cam seal is garbage and doesnt look like its ever been replaced. it has short cold air intake and a Stage the built charger from BBM (also based on paperwork and the previous owners word). I was hoping someone has a g60 swap in to mk2 gli and could take pictures of sensors and wires? I cant get the thing to run for more than ten minutes at best before it floods out.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Zorn1 said:


> what is the purpose of the bracket that must be removed to get to the thermostat? the one by the power steering pump?


 HAHA, check the German Engineering thread :laugh: 



Slowrrado said:


> WIRING EXPERTS!! HALP!
> 
> Im trying to get my SDS EM-4 to communicate with tach using a MSD 8920 unit, am I on the right track or all kinds of :facepalm:
> 
> ...


 May be able to help, but, i just got back from the SFLGTG and drunk as piss 



elijah- said:


> So my heat has been very weak since I bought the Corrado, and I had my car at a shop last week.. for other reasons, but they replaced the thermostat and the heat is still very weak. They said it's at 190 at the radiator, could the problem be a busted heater core or would I have some serious leakage problems if that were the case?
> 
> As you can probably tell I don't know a whole lot about how the heating system works, but I'd like to figure out what's wrong so I can fix the problem


 sounds like heater core, do you have the smell of coolnt on the floorboards?


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> sounds like heater core, do you have the smell of coolnt on the floorboards?


 Not that I've noticed, I'll check next weekend when I'm home and have the Corrado..


----------



## Slowrrado (Jan 13, 2004)

one more: 

I am changing my throw-out bearing while im in here and i noticed the old one was a little different on the mount points. Then since i have another o2a in the garage i pulled that one out and it was the same as the one i had installed. Did MJM shipe me the wrong one or is this a new style? 

The difference is the 2 i have in my trannys have metal ears to hold it from popping out while the one MJM provided is all plastic. 

MJMs is a SACHS # 3151 000 388 :screwy: 
example http://www.oscaro.com/butee-d-embrayage-sachs-3151-000-388-1807501-48-p 

 

Next Morning Edit: 
After a few test fits the POS plastic tab broke, don't ever get this version of throw out bearing.


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

For a g60 is there any difference between the automatic and manual ecu's


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

WTF is this? Looks rigged with a zip tie.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

nu2dubbing said:


> For a g60 is there any difference between the automatic and manual ecu's


 I don't believe so, IIRC, the only differences in ECU's was Cali cars


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

So I want to lower the G60 a bit more in the front. It looks like it's just a tad higher than the rear, these pics kind of exaggerate it on uneven ground, but yeah.. 

Now, I bought it with the current suspension setup (listed below), so I'm not exactly sure how everything is put together, but I'm going to assume it's similar to my previous car. 

- H&R sport springs 
- Bilstein sport struts 
- vr6 front strut bushings 
- poly rear strut bushings 

Would swapping the VR6 front strut bushings out with G60 strut bushings, or maybe even shaving the VR6 ones down a bit give me the drop I want? Again, I don't know exactly how everything goes together in a Corrado suspension setup, so please forgive me if something sounds off. I'm not about to buy a new set of springs or coils right now, just looking for a possibly inexpensive fix, otherwise I can live with it for a while. 



















edit: previous vehicle for ride height comparison, this is essentially the same height front/rear that I would like


----------



## yip (Jul 14, 2003)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> WTF is this? Looks rigged with a zip tie.


 That parts holds the ABS sensor wire. It's supposed to attach onto the strut bolt & nut that go through the spindle to hold it in place but it looks like yours is broken. Probably pretty cheap from the dealer but if not just hit me up with a part # and I can get you a good price on it if you decide to replace it. Otherwise I bet it'll be just fine with the zip tie!


----------



## yip (Jul 14, 2003)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I don't believe so, IIRC, the only differences in ECU's was Cali cars


 Only some Cali cars came with the OBD 1 38 pin ECU. I've had 4 originally sold in Cali G60's now and none of them had the 38 pin ECU *FORTUNATELY*!


----------



## Slowrrado (Jan 13, 2004)

Sr. Karmann said:


> HAHA, check the German Engineering thread :laugh:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
You sober yet? :laugh:


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

yip said:


> That parts holds the ABS sensor wire. It's supposed to attach onto the strut bolt & nut that go through the spindle to hold it in place but it looks like yours is broken. Probably pretty cheap from the dealer but if not just hit me up with a part # and I can get you a good price on it if you decide to replace it. Otherwise I bet it'll be just fine with the zip tie!


 Thank you sir! Zip tie it is for now. Till next parts run anyways


----------



## StarryNyte (Feb 1, 2011)

*The terminal inside my fuse box is melted???*

Hey there,

I have a 99 beetle, 2.0, 5 spd manual (im a girl, don't tease) that has been having trouble starting. I have had to jump start it for the passed few days every time I need to go somewhere. We had a big snow last week and the problem has been going on ever since then.

Yesterday the car stopped taking a jump and will not start at all. I have had the battery tested and its at 13 volts (which I understand to be fine, but the tester could be wrong) the alternator seems to be working fine as well (could be wrong but my friend checked it out) 

We opened the fuse box located atop the battery to check the connections and found one of the ports that takes the fuses (the one all the way to the left) was slightly melted. The fuse is fine with the filament (or whatever) intact.

Is this a common problem? Is there and easy fix? Does the melted fuse port have anything to do with my car not starting? What else could it be?

I am pretty mechanically inclined for a chick (change my own oil/battery and maintain fluids etc.) I am willing to try anything, I have only had this car for 6 months but I love it dearly and hate not being able to hop in and drive off.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

StarryNyte said:


> Hey there,
> 
> I have a 99 beetle, 2.0, 5 spd manual (im a girl, don't tease) that has been having trouble starting. I have had to jump start it for the passed few days every time I need to go somewhere. We had a big snow last week and the problem has been going on ever since then.
> 
> ...


This is the corrado forum, not the new beetle forum.

But I can reply with help in return for tits :laugh::laugh:

You should probably have the alt and battery tested using a load tester that most autoparts stores have and can perform for you.


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> This is the corrado forum, not the new beetle forum.
> 
> But I can reply with help in return for tits :laugh::laugh:
> 
> You should probably have the alt and battery tested using a load tester that most autoparts stores have and can perform for you.


It is the wrong forum but I can offer this: those battery-top fuse boxes go bad ALL the time. We kept them on-hand at my shop because they melt. Top-notch design, eh?


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

Is there a place you can buy new electrical connectors namely the o2 sensor plug and the tps plug


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

nu2dubbing said:


> Is there a place you can buy new electrical connectors namely the o2 sensor plug and the tps plug


Yes.

The dealership does carry them, but depending on the connector you can get them cheaper at a few other places. Chad I know has the link.


----------



## JMAVG60 (Aug 5, 2010)

JMAVG60 said:


> I am trying to figure out what the Heck is wrong with this mk2 jetta with a g60 swap that i just bought. I am attempting to figure out what sensors are missing. The car has spark (new plugs, wires, cap rotor ), it is getting fuel and its getting air. Supposedly it has BBM stage 3 kit in the motor but dont believe it as cam seal is garbage and doesnt look like its ever been replaced. it has short cold air intake and a Stage the built charger from BBM (also based on paperwork and the previous owners word). I was hoping someone has a g60 swap in to mk2 gli and could take pictures of sensors and wires? I cant get the thing to run for more than ten minutes at best before it floods out.


can anyone help?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

JMAVG60 said:


> can anyone help?


try the hybrid or G60 forum :thumbup:


----------



## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

Does anyone know what the name of this wholes door is called and where I can get an oem one for my g60??


----------



## yip (Jul 14, 2003)

Merlin87 said:


> Does anyone know what the name of this wholes door is called and where I can get an oem one for my g60??


ASHTRAY.... Corrado classifieds section


----------



## SLC_Angriff_VR6 (Mar 8, 2006)

*Strange Electrical Issue*

I have a 92 SLC and (Oh no hear it comes) the seat belts started to move forward (together) in the 

door open position while driving or while the car is running. That's not the worst of it though, there's more! 

 Since my little problem with the seat belts started it my interior lights, lighter receptacle 15 amp 

fuse started blowing. I am thinking a bad relay possibly but where to start, load relay? Seat belt 

relays? 



Thanks for any help on this!


----------



## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

yip said:


> ASHTRAY.... Corrado classifieds section


thank you sir


----------



## karlorado (Nov 13, 2008)

SLC_Angriff_VR6 said:


> I have a 92 SLC and (Oh no hear it comes) the seat belts started to move forward (together) in the
> 
> door open position while driving or while the car is running. That's not the worst of it though, there's more!
> 
> ...



Time to do a manual seat belt swap.

I have an entire kit I can sell, is your interior black?


----------



## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

in what case would I need spacers for my car's wheels????


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Merlin87 said:


> in what case would I need spacers for my car's wheels????


:what: ...clearance issues, looks...


----------



## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

RedYellowWhite said:


> :what: ...clearance issues, looks...


ok cause I think I need to lower mine just a tad bit more and so I asked about the spacers because I hear them come up a lot!


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

SLC_Angriff_VR6 said:


> I have a 92 SLC and (Oh no hear it comes) the seat belts started to move forward (together) in the
> 
> door open position while driving or while the car is running. That's not the worst of it though, there's more!
> 
> ...





karlorado said:


> Time to do a manual seat belt swap.
> 
> I have an entire kit I can sell, is your interior black?


If $$ is an issue you can just disable them also. Great for preventing fires!



Merlin87 said:


> ok cause I think I need to lower mine just a tad bit more and so I asked about the spacers because I hear them come up a lot!


If you lower it you'll more than likely have to get some spacers on it. I'm running 5mm just to improve looks and get some better clearance.


----------



## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

pej said:


> If you lower it you'll more than likely have to get some spacers on it. I'm running 5mm just to improve looks and get some better clearance.


thanks I was wanting it to be lower to the ground so when I take a corner fast it does feel like it's going to flip on me lol. I did a mountain run and it felt great, just felt like it was giving to much. I'm getting sway bars right away thanks for the in put guys


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

Are there holes behind the VW/Corrado/G60 badges on the hatch? I'm going to guess there are not any behind the Corrado/G60 ones, but the VW one may...


----------



## reborndub (Jun 18, 2009)

elijah- said:


> Are there holes behind the VW/Corrado/G60 badges on the hatch? I'm going to guess there are not any behind the Corrado/G60 ones, but the VW one may...


theres 2 holes for VW and 3 or 4 for the corrado badge and the g60 badge is stick on.
they use a little blue insert that almost looks like a push-in wall anchor for a screw.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Looking for opinions regarding good quality batteries brands for my G60 Corrado (no A/C) *besides Optima brand * and what capacity is ideal. Mine is 55Ah and I think its a bit small  
Note, this isn't a daily car so its not used/start a lot  

I was recommended on Varta...anyone has any feedback on those? 

TIA
Nick


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

I recently put coils on and I have some clearance questions. I have it dropped about as far as would be possible to still be driveable.... I think. If the snow and ice ever goes away so I can get it out of my garage without trashing something to take it for a test drive. :banghead: Anyways I have roughly 1/8th-1/4 inch clearance between the wheel and the spring. The area of the spring is closest to the adjustment ring. Is this too close? Or will I be needing spacers? TIA

92 SLC
Koni Coilovers
17x7.5 et35
205/40/17


----------



## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

FK Install question.

Did you have to drill out the flat washer on the rear to get it to fit?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Looking for opinions regarding good quality batteries brands for my G60 Corrado (no A/C) *besides Optima brand * and what capacity is ideal. Mine is 55Ah and I think its a bit small
> Note, this isn't a daily car so its not used/start a lot
> 
> I was recommended on Varta...anyone has any feedback on those?
> ...


Battery relocation? opcorn:



ItsNotaScirocco said:


> I recently put coils on and I have some clearance questions. I have it dropped about as far as would be possible to still be driveable.... I think. If the snow and ice ever goes away so I can get it out of my garage without trashing something to take it for a test drive. :banghead: Anyways I have roughly 1/8th-1/4 inch clearance between the wheel and the spring. The area of the spring is closest to the adjustment ring. Is this too close? Or will I be needing spacers? TIA
> 
> 92 SLC
> Koni Coilovers
> ...


get spacers



capthowdy_1968 said:


> FK Install question.
> 
> Did you have to drill out the flat washer on the rear to get it to fit?


Rick, thatz weird, wouldn't think so


----------



## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

I thought so to, but they are just as tad too small. Might just gave to bore them out a bit.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> I thought so to, but they are just as tad too small. Might just gave to bore them out a bit.


weird.werd


----------



## pursuit99 (Apr 3, 2009)

I recently got my car back on the road, but I'm having a problem with the steering
If I turn my steering wheel hard, it will basically have 60-80deg of play in it. It doesn't happen if I'm turning the steering wheel softly, only if I jolt it or dive in to take a corner hard. At first I thought my steering rack was loose on the subframe, but that's not actually it. If I put the car on jack stands, I can turn the wheels left and right a bit and feel what almost seems like slipping on a very worn out rack and pinion. 
I replaced my steering column right down to where it bolts into the steering rack, so one possibility is that it's actually slipping where the steering column bolts onto the rack, although I've got that very tight and can't see how it could be slipping. the only other alternative I see is that something is happening inside the steering rack.
Does this sound like a bad rack? It's G60 with plus suspension and ZF rack that the PO put on


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Battery relocation? opcorn:


:beer: :laugh: ^^Nice but no, so...



RedYellowWhite said:


> Looking for opinions regarding good quality batteries brands for my G60 Corrado (no A/C) *besides Optima brand * and what capacity is ideal. Mine is 55Ah and I think its a bit small
> Note, this isn't a daily car so its not used/start a lot
> 
> I was recommended on Varta...anyone has any feedback on those?
> ...


...any other opinions?


----------



## SLC_Angriff_VR6 (Mar 8, 2006)

karlorado said:


> Time to do a manual seat belt swap.
> 
> I have an entire kit I can sell, is your interior black?


No I have the tan interior/Klassic Gruen Ext. Black would be killer but Im not in a position to put out the dough on a partial interior swap. I guess I am going to give the relays a go first, and see if that solves it. I am at the point where I may jut get rid of the car. I never seem to have the time or the money to tend to its needs anymore.


----------



## SLC_Angriff_VR6 (Mar 8, 2006)

Quote Originally Posted by karlorado View Post
Time to do a manual seat belt swap.

I have an entire kit I can sell, is your interior black?
If $$ is an issue you can just disable them also. Great for preventing fires!

If I was to do that would I just need to remove the relays? Do you think that would solve my interior lights/cig light fuse blowing issue as well? Thanks C.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

SLC_Angriff_VR6 said:


> Quote Originally Posted by karlorado View Post
> Time to do a manual seat belt swap.
> 
> I have an entire kit I can sell, is your interior black?
> ...


There is a 10a fuse you should pull by each relay as well. I went ahead and removed all potentially problematic wiring tho...


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

pursuit99 said:


> I recently got my car back on the road, but I'm having a problem with the steering
> If I turn my steering wheel hard, it will basically have 60-80deg of play in it. It doesn't happen if I'm turning the steering wheel softly, only if I jolt it or dive in to take a corner hard. At first I thought my steering rack was loose on the subframe, but that's not actually it. If I put the car on jack stands, I can turn the wheels left and right a bit and feel what almost seems like slipping on a very worn out rack and pinion.
> I replaced my steering column right down to where it bolts into the steering rack, so one possibility is that it's actually slipping where the steering column bolts onto the rack, although I've got that very tight and can't see how it could be slipping. the only other alternative I see is that something is happening inside the steering rack.
> Does this sound like a bad rack? It's G60 with plus suspension and ZF rack that the PO put on


the valving in the rack might be bad. have you checked out your power steering pump as well? unable to turn under pressure might mean its not pushing out the right pressure through the system with hydrolic fluid. I'm not sure though... just some ideas for ya.



RedYellowWhite said:


> Looking for opinions regarding good quality batteries brands for my G60 Corrado (no A/C) *besides Optima brand * and what capacity is ideal. Mine is 55Ah and I think its a bit small
> Note, this isn't a daily car so its not used/start a lot
> 
> I was recommended on Varta...anyone has any feedback on those?
> ...



55ah class? I've got a 41-4 class (I think) in mine. You practically need a shoe horn to get it in and out... but it fits.


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

bah... a cursed double post.


----------



## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

*Camber bolts*

Does it matter which position the adjustable camber bolts go into to? One side was the upper, the other the lower.


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> There is a 10a fuse you should pull by each relay as well. I went ahead and removed all potentially problematic wiring tho...


I removed the relay and fuse on each motor, and disconnected the wire from the motor as well.


----------



## seguro80 (Jan 24, 2011)

*mess of a rado*

so i took the front end of the ecu wiring harness and i found this harness wich is unplugged and all taped up the car was running with out it but idk what it is or whats it for or wher it would go i dont see any other places to plug them up so i know either to fix it or remove it


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## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

After my frozen coolant overheating episode and $250 later.. I picked the Corrado up on Friday and after ~25 minutes or so my coolant light came on. Stopped for lunch and let it cool off, opened the hood and saw the coolant was about 1/4 full on the spherical coolant bottle, when min is about half way. I had some coolant in my car so I filled it up and drove back home.

Took it out again today to see if it was leaking or something, the coolant seemed a bit lower than before, I had it almost at max, and it was right around, maybe a bit below min. Drove about 20 minutes without any noticeable problems, pulled in my driveway and I noticed some steam coming out of my pass side headlight area and a fairly faint odor (maybe normal).

So, does this sound like a coolant leak? The mechanic told me there were no leaks, but it seems as if he may be wrong... he replaced the thermostat.

On another note, on the tube going from the front right of the G-charger, there was either some condensation or some liquid around a few spots of it. Touched it and it looked darkish, maybe oily, but couldn't really smell anything with my cold. I didn't spend much time looking because the weather is disgusting and everything is wet and slushy.. it'll probably have to wait until spring rolls around to get any real work done, but any idea what this would be?


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

just over to the local dealer and they want $76.00 for the tps connector and the o2 sensor connector with some wire leads. anyone know of any other place? (91 g60 auto)


----------



## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

So as I was driving down the road today when my RPM needle started going wack. It was like jumping up and down and would lay down at 0 RPM's sometimes, then it would go back to normal. Is this just a lose connection somewhere? Because, I know this sounds ghetto but, if I hit the top of the dash above the cluster itnwould fix it.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

seguro80 said:


> so i took the front end of the ecu wiring harness and i found this harness wich is unplugged and all taped up the car was running with out it but idk what it is or whats it for or wher it would go i dont see any other places to plug them up so i know either to fix it or remove it


You need to pull it apart, see what color the wires are and follow it according to the Bentley :thumbup:



nu2dubbing said:


> just over to the local dealer and they want $76.00 for the tps connector and the o2 sensor connector with some wire leads. anyone know of any other place? (91 g60 auto)


That's kinda steep, IIRC TPS is a simple 3 wire connector and o2 should be swapped out for Bosch Ford 5.0 o2 anyway could probly get all 3 for half that...



bpodlesnik said:


> So as I was driving down the road today when my RPM needle started going wack. It was like jumping up and down and would lay down at 0 RPM's sometimes, then it would go back to normal. Is this just a lose connection somewhere? Because, I know this sounds ghetto but, if I hit the top of the dash above the cluster itnwould fix it.


mine did the same exact thing and it turned out to be a bad cluster board, but you could try messing with the coil connectors


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## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

My guess is that's the wiring harness for a former ABS setup. See if there are sensors on your hubs, or see if there are two relays (marked 78 and 79) at the upper part of the fuse box (almost on top of the box).




seguro80 said:


> so i took the front end of the ecu wiring harness and i found this harness wich is unplugged and all taped up the car was running with out it but idk what it is or whats it for or wher it would go i dont see any other places to plug them up so i know either to fix it or remove it


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## seguro80 (Jan 24, 2011)

*mess of a rado*



lmurray said:


> My guess is that's the wiring harness for a former ABS setup. See if there are sensors on your hubs, or see if there are two relays (marked 78 and 79) at the upper part of the fuse box (almost on top of the box).


kool thanks .. and if it is the former abs does that mean i can just pull it out ?


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## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Hey guys,

I was just wondering if the B4 Passat rear emblem is the same as our Corrado rear emblems.

I believe the answer is yes with the exception of the part number due to the difference of the finishing. Anyways just wondering if anyone knows a definitive answer.

Cheers


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Das.Rado said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I was just wondering if the B4 Passat rear emblem is the same as our Corrado rear emblems.
> 
> ...


The wagon one is the same iirc, the sedan was different... I would need to look at etka to remember which is stick on and which uses clips


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Looking for opinions regarding good quality batteries brands for my G60 Corrado (no A/C) *besides Optima brand * and what capacity is ideal. Mine is 55Ah and I think its a bit small
> Note, this isn't a daily car so its not used/start a lot
> 
> I was recommended on Varta...anyone has any feedback on those?
> ...


Bump

Bosch?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Bump
> 
> Bosch?


OEM or bust 

Don't know what is available over there? Deka & Odessey are good


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> OEM or bust
> 
> Don't know what is available over there? Deka & Odessey are good


Yeah, we don't have those here either..


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Yeah, we don't have those here either..


Kinnetic batteries?

Otherwise the oem batteries last forever. Original one still in my audi. It is 9 year old.


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## Cham (Jun 28, 2010)

I was wondering about the AC Fluied.

Now that i am going to take out the Engine on my Corrado but the problem is the AC is not empty and i was wondering can i do it on my garage and drain the fluid...???

What kind of pressure is there on the system and is it something that i should not do on my own...???


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Cham said:


> I was wondering about the AC Fluied.
> 
> Now that i am going to take out the Engine on my Corrado but the problem is the AC is not empty and i was wondering can i do it on my garage and drain the fluid...???
> 
> What kind of pressure is there on the system and is it something that i should not do on my own...???


Not an issue, unless you are concerned about the ozone


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Kinnetic batteries?
> 
> ^^*Nope*
> 
> Otherwise the oem batteries last forever. Original one still in my audi. It is 9 year old.


Hmm, I'll ask the dealership then and see what ridiculous price they'll have for me...

:thumbup:


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## teammonster (Jul 20, 2007)

So today I rolled the window's down and they both wouldn't go back up. Also the power door locks don't work either. What could be the cause. I have checked all the fuses Not sure if it is a relay and also having trouble tracking down the relay. I pulled the fuse box out from under the dash. Noticed a few wires that weren't connected. I also found a fuse that was blown at the very top of the box it's a 30amp that is the 2nd or 3rd one in from the right of the block. Once I put a new fuse in it key on or off it blows right away. It has two large red wires going to and from fuse. I have taken some pictures Hopefully they will help.

Car is a 91 g60

1st two connectors that I have no clue where they go. Anyone have any idea?








The fuse that keeps blowing is ether one of these. 








Another thing I'm trying to find out is the connector that is on the right that's missing what does it go to. This is the driver side door. The connector on the left goes up to the key I believe.


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

if you're blowing fuses and your window and locks stopped working at the same time... i'd think possible short somewhere in the wiring that goes through the door. I cant think of any other reason the window and locks would stop working at the same time. They are on different electrical circuits.


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## mr clean775 (Feb 8, 2011)

Hello to all the experts.
Here I go with my first post. I have a 93 SLC. I had to replace the head gasket and when I did I noticed I also needed to replace the timming chain guides, which I also did. I didn't install a new clutch since the it was working just fine and right after christmas it was out of my budget at the moment. Here is the problem I have: the clutch feels like if is slipping, but as I said before it was working just fine before taking everything apart. Any ideas on what it could be besides the clutch? 
Also, after conecting back all the sensors on the engine bay, there is a conection that I don't know were it goes, is comes from were the cables for the cam sensors are and it looks like the conection for the cam sensor but I already have that one conected. Am I missing something here?


----------



## teammonster (Jul 20, 2007)

That's kinda what I was thinking but my electric mirrors work on both sides. Thought that would have been tied in there somewhere. I am also thinking it could be a relay. Is that a possibility?


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

teammonster said:


> That's kinda what I was thinking but my electric mirrors work on both sides. Thought that would have been tied in there somewhere. I am also thinking it could be a relay. Is that a possibility?


it could be a relay. When you hit the switch to put the windows up and down, do you hear a click behind the DR side door card? There should be a slight clicking from there thats the relay activating. If you dont... your window relay is most likely dead. (pm me if you need one) As for the locks, i've not had the joy of looking into those before. When you try to unlock the door from the outside, do you hear the vacuum system working? You may have a disconnect somewhere which is why the other door isnt unlocking/locking as well.


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

cyberstasi said:


> it could be a relay. When you hit the switch to put the windows up and down, do you hear a click behind the DR side door card? There should be a slight clicking from there thats the relay activating. If you dont... your window relay is most likely dead. (pm me if you need one) As for the locks, i've not had the joy of looking into those before. When you try to unlock the door from the outside, do you hear the vacuum system working? You may have a disconnect somewhere which is why the other door isnt unlocking/locking as well.



To the experts.
Im going to be removing the pedal cluster from a Corrado, and i've remember reading that its best to removal the steering column first. But if I remember there is a trick to removing that. Anyone have any pictures of the bolts or whatever that are the trick?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> To the experts.
> Im going to be removing the pedal cluster from a Corrado, and i've remember reading that its best to removal the steering column first. But if I remember there is a trick to removing that. Anyone have any pictures of the bolts or whatever that are the trick?


Steering column SUCKS to remove. the 4 bolts on the underside of the column are sheer bolts. The heads have been sheered off. You need to cut groves in them to be able to get a LARGE slotted screw driver in them and remove them that way. You will also need to remove the u-joint at the bottom.


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## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

Is there something I can use to get the old glue off my inner sunroof (plastic) panel? A shop that I frequent tried an area w/Acetone & an orbital sander which took forever. 
Is there another chemical I can use that wont screw up the plastic? Heat from a hair dryer?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

mr clean775 said:


> Hello to all the experts.
> Here I go with my first post. I have a 93 SLC. I had to replace the head gasket and when I did I noticed I also needed to replace the timming chain guides, which I also did. I didn't install a new clutch since the it was working just fine and right after christmas it was out of my budget at the moment. Here is the problem I have: the clutch feels like if is slipping, but as I said before it was working just fine before taking everything apart. Any ideas on what it could be besides the clutch?
> Also, after conecting back all the sensors on the engine bay, there is a conection that I don't know were it goes, is comes from were the cables for the cam sensors are and it looks like the conection for the cam sensor but I already have that one conected. Am I missing something here?


Well....First post, and too much going on there. 
1st, if the clutch is slipping, you probably got fluid of some sort on it, and it now needs to be changed regardless of how it was working before. 

Your Bentley manual should tell you if you have plugged everything back in correctly, double check your wiring by colors, not by plugs. If you have not deleted anything from the motor, what is left to be plugged in? 

If you do not have the Bentley Repair manual, it is the first thing you need to INVEST in as calling it a purchase would be uncivilized. 

Camber bolts @capthowdy_1968, I believe they go up top on the strut.


----------



## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

Okay so yesterday i tried to wipe my rear window but the wiper was frozen in ice and it forced a bit and then went downward a bit... Now its f*'ed up and it wont go up even if theres no ice BUT it will go down to the spoiler  Could it be loose or just misplaced on the pivot?


Another thing, i've noticed a fuel smell on startup, and when i opened the hood while it was warming up at idle i saw little drip of fuel at the left end of the fuelrail where two little hose connect to the bigger ones... I noticed a bit of cracking in the rubber but theres no smell once its running its seems only at start.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Seb--Morin said:


> Okay so yesterday i tried to wipe my rear window but the wiper was frozen in ice and it forced a bit and then went downward a bit... Now its f*'ed up and it wont go up even if theres no ice BUT it will go down to the spoiler  Could it be loose or just misplaced on the pivot?
> 
> 
> Another thing, i've noticed a fuel smell on startup, and when i opened the hood while it was warming up at idle i saw little drip of fuel at the left end of the fuelrail where two little hose connect to the bigger ones... I noticed a bit of cracking in the rubber but theres no smell once its running its seems only at start.


Remove the rear wiper and buy one of these:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...nodized-Corrado-Rear-Wiper-Deletes&p=69778395

No more wiper problems

Replace your fuel hoses. Is this a VR6 or a G60? I can get you the part numbers for factory hoses. And thedubnutz sells a fuel line kit using braided line if you don't want factory. :thumbup:


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## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> Remove the rear wiper and buy one of these:
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...nodized-Corrado-Rear-Wiper-Deletes&p=69778395
> 
> No more wiper problems
> ...


Hehe yeah i tought about caping it but with lightsnow it can be effective... And for the fuel lines i would really like to have some braided one depending on the price... For a VR6  

Thanks a lot!


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Seb--Morin said:


> Hehe yeah i tought about caping it but with lightsnow it can be effective... And for the fuel lines i would really like to have some braided one depending on the price... For a VR6
> 
> Thanks a lot!


... just brush off the snow then for light snow.

I never understood having the rear wiper on the corrado. or any hatch back for that matter. My A6 has about the same slant on the rear window and no rear wiper. 

http://www.shop.thedubnutz.com/Fuel-Line-kit-VR6-StainlessBraided-Fuel-Line-Kit-VR6-12v-SS.htm


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## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

Yeah you're right and i looked at it after work and the "threads" on the wiper arm are all stripped so i'll go with the cap and a brush Thanks for the link, but unfortunatly i think i might have a bigger problem... I have been pretty lucky with my rado so far, but now it seems like im on a bad streak cause it stalled on my way back  

The idle was a bit erratic when cold, like it would stay high after i give some throttle like @ 1200 at stop signs... But then all of a sudden after 2 blocks it would drop and get normal for the whole ride... Not today, the engine was warm and it stalled as i put it in neutral and then it took like 5 times to start again (struggled i had to go WOT) There was a weird smell of unburned gas but it could be from when i tried to start it (with a delay between each try)

I guess it's time for a visit to the garage :facepalm:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> ... just brush off the snow then for light snow.
> 
> I never understood having the rear wiper on the corrado. or any hatch back for that matter. My A6 has about the same slant on the rear window and no rear wiper.
> 
> http://www.shop.thedubnutz.com/Fuel-Line-kit-VR6-StainlessBraided-Fuel-Line-Kit-VR6-12v-SS.htm


I actually liked having mine, worked very well, even at high speeds, but I did have the OE aerofoil, but the car does look much cleaner without it :thumbup:


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## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

PrjktRado1 said:


> Is there something I can use to get the old glue off my inner sunroof (plastic) panel? A shop that I frequent tried an area w/Acetone & an orbital sander which took forever.
> Is there another chemical I can use that wont screw up the plastic? Heat from a hair dryer?


Should've mentioned what I'm trying to do. I had my headliner reupholstered a darker gray color but forgot to bring the inner panel with me. After going back & realizing the material was too thick to line the panel, :banghead: I thought I should just color match it w/the vinyl paint I bought for the visors. Any comments appreciated...


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

PrjktRado1 said:


> Should've mentioned what I'm trying to do. I had my headliner reupholstered a darker gray color but forgot to bring the inner panel with me. After going back & realizing the material was too thick to line the panel, :banghead: I thought I should just color match it w/the vinyl paint I bought for the visors. Any comments appreciated...


laquer thinner :thumbup:


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

couple questions for a couple of my rados

Car A -
1) best way to remove the rear quarter panel glass without breaking it.
2) best way to remove a windshield without breaking it.
3) How does one go about removing the shifter box... does it have to be dropped out of the bottom of the car?

Car B - 
4) I bought a corrado that had a 1.8T swap in it that was pulled before I bought the car. The axles are still in the car, will they work if I drop a G60 motor/trans back in the car... Or do I need to source original G60 axles. For some reason I'm thinking the length is different. (dont know why Im thinking that.)


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> couple questions for a couple of my rados
> 
> Car A -
> 1) best way to remove the rear quarter panel glass without breaking it.
> ...


1 & 2, VERY CAREFULLY, wire cutter is the best, google technique
3 YES, it does come out the bottom of the car, exhaust & heat shield will need to be taken down as well
4 Dunno, wouldn't it depend on if it was a 1.8t tranny... I can take some measurements of mine if you need


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> Car B -
> 4) I bought a corrado that had a 1.8T swap in it that was pulled before I bought the car. The axles are still in the car, will they work if I drop a G60 motor/trans back in the car... Or do I need to source original G60 axles. For some reason I'm thinking the length is different. (dont know why Im thinking that.)


Depends on transmission. If using 02A or 02J transmission then it bolts right up. Just a note the 02J trans might have different cups you will need to change them out for early 02J cups that are 100mm instead of 108mm

O2M is a whole 'nother story


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## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> laquer thinner :thumbup:


Thank u Sr. :wave: Hope it works better than A$$etone. 

________________________________________


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

PrjktRado1 said:


> Thank u Sr. :wave: Hope it works better than A$$etone.
> 
> ________________________________________


No problem, prepare to get gooey :thumbup:


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> prepare to get gooey :thumbup:


sounds like a really shady porno production. :laugh:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> sounds like a really shady porno production. :laugh:


:laugh:


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Hello guys,

I know this isn't the 2.8L Info forum, but i'm hoping someone here might have the answer or some good suggestions before i go and make a another thread about this. Also id just like to say that i have searched to try and find an answer but despite the amount of threads about this problem none of them have a solution, well a recorded one anyways.

I recently NA built my motor and did an OBD2 swap and ever since then my coolant light has an intermittent flash. The symptoms are as follows: 

Start the car everything is fine no coolant light flashing and car runs normal. However once i reach operating temp (be it after driving or letting it idle) the coolant light begins to flash although coolant level is slightly above max and temp is normal. All of my coolant system is new except the radiator, however i also have a bypassed heatercore. I am using a lower temp thermostat and fan switch.

If anyone needs some extra info let me know, and i thank you all in advance for the help.


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## cstanley19 (Sep 23, 2006)

Anyone know where I can source a brand new oem shift knob from? I know torsten had those bad ass tan ones, I'm looking for something like that just all black. Let me know!


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

cstanley19 said:


> Anyone know where I can source a brand new oem shift knob from? I know torsten had those bad ass tan ones, I'm looking for something like that just all black. Let me know!


EPP man...not that expensive either

http://www.europeanperformanceprodu...-Leather-Shift-Knob--new-style-interior-.html


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## cstanley19 (Sep 23, 2006)

Ya i have one sitting in the shopping cart on EPP. Shipping was half the price of the knob. looks like I'm gonna bite the bullet and buy it. Thanks man!


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

cstanley19 said:


> Ya i have one sitting in the shopping cart on EPP. Shipping was half the price of the knob. looks like I'm gonna bite the bullet and buy it. Thanks man!


I know (shipping charges) :banghead:
What I do when I buy parts from them (actually they are called ARZ here) is buy multiple parts to "justify" expensive shipping costs


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

Last summer I had my clutch replaced. So yesterday I was obsessively cleaning the car, and started under the hood and to my GREAT surprise I spotted a cv joint to tranny flange bolt just hangin' there. All backed out, just the boot holding it in place. So my question is, can I drive it without that one bolt? I will ABSOLUTELY be a gentle driver with it. I want to just tighten it back up myself, but finding that one loose makes me wonder about all the other fasteners that might be loose as well. Should I take it back to where I had the work done? My receipt does claim a 2 yr, 20k mile warranty.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cstanley19 said:


> Ya i have one sitting in the shopping cart on EPP. Shipping was half the price of the knob. looks like I'm gonna bite the bullet and buy it. Thanks man!


Casey, try 1stvwparts :thumbup:


----------



## passat_98 (Mar 31, 2007)

Here's two for the experts:

1. High beam work but the low beams don't. I've checked the lights, fuses, and wiring. Do I just need a new switch or what pins on the switch are for the low beams so I can bust the meter out and test it. 

2. I'm assuming I need a new voltage stabilizer for my coolant and gas gauge. The coolant gauge doesn't even work but the gas gauge does but when I filled up(93oct) it showed less than full. Then on the 30 mile drive to work it shows I used almost 1/4 of a tank = 6-7mpg...scary thing is that's what the maf says. 

Or do I just have a bigger problem on my hands


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Before you guys get all in a tizzy incase these aren't cool enough rims, I am simply asking if anyone can identify what they are. I know many of you are experts in this field.

The only reason I think they might be a good find is because they are staggered. PLEASE just try and help me


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

they look like KT-1's but I can't tell from the low res pick


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

iMD Autos said:


> Before you guys get all in a tizzy


are you fu9kin serious :sly: 



iMD Autos said:


> The only reason I think they might be a good find is because they are staggered. PLEASE just try and help me


just because they are staggered doesn't mean anything, as long as you would like to see them on your C..............................................................


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> are you fu9kin serious :sly:


Yes. :thumbup:

Wheels a VERY sensitive thing around here


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

TheBurninator said:


> they look like KT-1's but I can't tell from the low res pick


Thank you for your help. They do look like the KT-1's you speak of and now I am going to see them in person tomorrow.


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## '90G60C0RRAD0 (Sep 11, 2010)

*slave cylinder*

1990G60 corrado ..the clutch pedal felt like it was losing pressure when i would press it, and on occasion would get stuck 2 floor and wouldnt spring back up.. and now it wont go into gear... help please.


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## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

Fixed. I just put the bolt back in and tightened it up, but will be taking to get all fasteners properly torqued this week.:beer:


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## surfer1992 (Nov 20, 2002)

90g60corrado ... Pull it back up and pump it .. Make sure you have brake fluid in the reservoir. Your gonna need a slave cylinder.


----------



## surfer1992 (Nov 20, 2002)

PrjktRado1 said:


> Should've mentioned what I'm trying to do. I had my headliner reupholstered a darker gray color but forgot to bring the inner panel with me. After going back & realizing the material was too thick to line the panel, :banghead: I thought I should just color match it w/the vinyl paint I bought for the visors. Any comments appreciated...


I think it's call xylene it's also called glue and label remover 


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## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

surfer1992 said:


> I think it's call xylene it's also called glue and label remover 


Cool thanks, I'll look into that also. :thumbup:


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

So in a recent acquisition of mine I ended up with a blown Charger.
I know mechanically how the G60 is supposed to operate.. but I dont see how an oscillating scroll could cause this kind of damage. Any ideas?
I'm just curious what might have caused it. Or is this most likely someone damaging it after it was already in apart?
Click for larger image.


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## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

*To spray or not to spray*

FK tails, better to spray (all red) the clear ones or the red and clear ones? Minimal difference?
And anyone sprayed the smoke and red ones all red?

Pic for content


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

I always imagined that the ugly all-clear FK/InPro's would had the best result when sprayed all-red. 
I've seen sets of crystal clear/red sprayed all-red and can't say they are flawless...



NYCGTM said:


> Pic for content


Btw, you know the above ^ is EmpireGFX overlays right?


----------



## rockpuck (Jun 5, 2010)

I didn't read all 100 pages, put if my answer are in one of those just tell me I'll check on it hehe.

I have some hard trouble with my Sun roof, it works, but it has some hard time opening and closing. 

I heard don't know where, but I can use some kind of oil for sun roof to help him slide in like a new. But I don't know where to find that stuff, or even if it works.

If you, can I change only the motor, or I have to take it out and put a new one?
Thanks!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

NYCGTM said:


> FK tails, better to spray (all red) the clear ones or the red and clear ones? Minimal difference?
> And anyone sprayed the smoke and red ones all red?
> 
> Pic for content


I have a set of clear/red that I put the empire graphics overlays on. 2 things I would note:
1) the top portion looks pinkish in certain lighting.
2) the silicone used on the clear ones is clear where the smoked ones they used black. On the bottom half they used a black silicone as well.

In my opinion the smoked/red tails with an overlay would be a better match.

Pic for reference:


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

*Idle woes*

I was driving the C a couple days ago, and it was pretty low on fuel (just at the red mark). I went around a sharp corner and the car cut out for a sec. and promptly returned all power. It did the same around the next sharp corner. I went to the gas station and fueled up, and it has not done that since. BUT, ever since that the idle hasn't been perfect. It is typically worse when cold, but still acts up when warm. It will idle around 850 (which I presume is normal) and then will dive to about 500 then back to 850 back to 500 back to 850 and so on. It runs perfect when cruising. Temp sensor?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> I was driving the C a couple days ago, and it was pretty low on fuel (just at the red mark). I went around a sharp corner and the car cut out for a sec. and promptly returned all power. It did the same around the next sharp corner. I went to the gas station and fueled up, and it has not done that since. BUT, ever since that the idle hasn't been perfect. It is typically worse when cold, but still acts up when warm. It will idle around 850 (which I presume is normal) and then will dive to about 500 then back to 850 back to 500 back to 850 and so on. It runs perfect when cruising. Temp sensor?


Or your fuel pump is dying. Check for correct pressure at the rail.

You can check with a multimeter if the CTS is bad too Look in the bentley for specs on each.


----------



## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

*Bow Ning Status*



RedYellowWhite said:


> Btw, you know the above ^ is EmpireGFX overlays right?


Yes, by the lines on the reverse, and thanks.

Kyle, I guess so, but I wouldnt mind spraying candy apple red everything, and yes, red reverse too since it will not be my daily. this way I wouldnt have a pink butt, I mean tailights, like you 

Just wasn't sure if the spraying would darken the already red lower area more than the clear tops vs. even red on all clear lights. Also considering what you said about the clear and black silicone too :thumbup:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

NYCGTM said:


> Yes, by the lines on the reverse, and thanks.
> 
> Kyle, I guess so, but I wouldnt mind spraying candy apple red everything, and yes, red reverse too since it will not be my daily. this way I wouldnt have a pink butt, I mean tailights, like you
> 
> Just wasn't sure if the spraying would darken the already red lower area more than the clear tops vs. even red on all clear lights. Also considering what you said about the clear and black silicone too :thumbup:


I would think at a minimum it would create an off color with the already red lowers. Possibly cloud them depending on what paint you use.

At some point I will be replacing mine with a smoked set to do this to. But that is really really low on my priority list.


----------



## dab043 (Jun 8, 2005)

*Auto Trans issues*

Auto trans on 91 G60. After a few minutes of driving when going into 3rd gear it will rev really high before going into gear. It sometimes feels that I will never go into gear, 5K or so on the RPMs before it shifts. After this happens it will shift gears inbetween 4K - 5K for every gear. Sport mode or Economic mode, no difference. Any suggestions?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

dab043 said:


> Auto trans on 91 G60. After a few minutes of driving when going into 3rd gear it will rev really high before going into gear. It sometimes feels that I will never go into gear, 5K or so on the RPMs before it shifts. After this happens it will shift gears inbetween 4K - 5K for every gear. Sport mode or Economic mode, no difference. Any suggestions?


Swap to a real transmission.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Swap to a real transmission.


This^:laugh: or at least try to change the fluid if you haven't done so yet. Not much you can do with these old automatics anyway.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> This^:laugh: or at least try to change the fluid if you haven't done so yet. Not much you can do with these old automatics anyway.


I would suggest NOT changing the fluid in an old auto unless it has been changed regularly in the first place.


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

I have one for the experts. My g60 has a fairly new throttle cable, but in the last couple days there have been times when I clutch in and it stays at 3000 rpm. It is intermittent, but I do not think it is the cable because I reached to my gas pedal and couldn't get it to quit. I was thinking maybe I had an intake leak but at this point I am not entirely sure.


----------



## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

TheBurninator said:


> I would suggest NOT changing the fluid in an old auto unless it has been changed regularly in the first place.


Agreed, it can go into "shock" and your going to be in a worse situation. Usually on older cars with many miles it has to be a half and half (trans fluid) change at most.


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## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

TheBurninator said:


> I would think at a minimum it would create an off color with the already red lowers. Possibly cloud them depending on what paint you use.
> 
> At some point I will be replacing mine with a smoked set to do this to. But that is really really low on my priority list.


Wait a sec, why the smoked ones? That will give you an even worse final product (colors) no?
I guess the clear ones would be best since it has clear silicone and when sprayed red it will be as evenly colored as possible. With nice coat of clear on top of that as well, of course, for the bling blang.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> I would suggest NOT changing the fluid in an old auto unless it has been changed regularly in the first place.


Check the level of fluid at least, it can burn off on these old auto's. 



JamesS said:


> I have one for the experts. My g60 has a fairly new throttle cable, but in the last couple days there have been times when I clutch in and it stays at 3000 rpm. It is intermittent, but I do not think it is the cable because I reached to my gas pedal and couldn't get it to quit. I was thinking maybe I had an intake leak but at this point I am not entirely sure.


I would start with cleaning the ISV, and assuring that all vacuum leaks are addressed. If the Throttle body is getting stuck, I would look into assuring proper functionality of the TB.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

JamesS said:


> I have one for the experts. My g60 has a fairly new throttle cable, but in the last couple days there have been times when I clutch in and it stays at 3000 rpm. It is intermittent, but I do not think it is the cable because I reached to my gas pedal and couldn't get it to quit. I was thinking maybe I had an intake leak but at this point I am not entirely sure.


Did you lube the cable prior to putting it in? Sometimes they stick a bit. I usually throw some silicone spray onto it and work it a bit before putting it into the car.



NYCGTM said:


> Wait a sec, why the smoked ones? That will give you an even worse final product (colors) no?
> I guess the clear ones would be best since it has clear silicone and when sprayed red it will be as evenly colored as possible. With nice coat of clear on top of that as well, of course, for the bling blang.


Using the tinted ones would give you a closer match to the bottom red. Maybe you can get away with it if you lay down really heavy on the color coat but I would rather just have the tinted ones and not have to try and match it as closely when making the tops red.


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

Will unplugging my blue CTS cause any damage to any components? Wanted to see if my idle changes at all when unplugged. 93 SLC.


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

Is it a good idea to get the stock flywheel on a VR6 lightened a couple pounds or is it better to buy an aftermarket one?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Will unplugging my blue CTS cause any damage to any components? Wanted to see if my idle changes at all when unplugged. 93 SLC.


No it will just make your car throw a code.


----------



## dab043 (Jun 8, 2005)

> Originally Posted by TheBurninator
> Swap to a real transmission.


Appreciate that my transmission is not real, so I drive an unreal car... that sounds right. 



> Originally Posted by TheBurninator I would suggest NOT changing the fluid in an old auto unless it has been changed regularly in the first place.





> Agreed, it can go into "shock" and your going to be in a worse situation. Usually on older cars with many miles it has to be a half and half (trans fluid) change at most.


I was planning on changing the filter and gasket, which will require adding fluid. Not a tranny flush, which I think is what your saying.

All great advice, thanks.


----------



## surfer1992 (Nov 20, 2002)

NYCGTM said:


> FK tails, better to spray (all red) the clear ones or the red and clear ones? Minimal difference?
> And anyone sprayed the smoke and red ones all red?
> 
> Pic for content


Red and clear


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

I've got one for the experts, since I'm kinda confused...
Could a bad alternator/charging issue cause a ticking noise coming from the engine  (similar to bad lifters ticking sound - but can't be this 'cause I just replaced those a few hundred miles ago)
Anyway, I was getting this ticking noise for a while while I was having the bad alt etc issues and when I replaced the battery and alternator with brand new ones, this noise magically disappered...wtf


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## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

surfer1992 said:


> Red and clear


Sprayed right? Looks perfect, did you hit up and down? Up twice down once? Cleared both?


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> No it will just make your car throw a code.


Thanks, won't try that.

These cars are a journey I swear, since that leads me to another question. It's like walking down the road of Corrado problems. My car has ABS deleted (yay) and so I assume that's why my abs/brake light never illuminates. Also, my car has no CEL anywhere so if it was throwing a code, how would I check?

Red, alternators will make all sorts of funny sounds so that's probably where the noise was.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> ...Red, alternators will make all sorts of funny sounds so that's probably where the noise was.


Hmm, I guess it could be the bearings that made that "ticking" noise then right? And since I've changed my alt then the noise is gone...
Thanks man  :beer:


----------



## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

Anyone ever hear about intake mani gasket that increase power significantly? I have doubt on the numbers but if it could reduce the temp it cant hurt... Im replacing mine with a OEM 2.9L soon to be fully polished/painted 

http://www.avenueautosport.com/Powe...-VR6-12V-Golf-Jetta-Corrado-Passat_p_220.html


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Seb--Morin said:


> Anyone ever hear about intake mani gasket that increase power significantly? I have doubt on the numbers but if it could reduce the temp it cant hurt... Im replacing mine with a OEM 2.9L soon to be fully polished/painted
> 
> http://www.avenueautosport.com/Powe...-VR6-12V-Golf-Jetta-Corrado-Passat_p_220.html


It is a phenolic spacer. They reduce heatsoak from the head to the manifold. You may see a whole .5 hp from it. Not worth the money IMO


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## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Hmm, I guess it could be the bearings that made that "ticking" noise then right? And since I've changed my alt then the noise is gone...
> Thanks man  :beer:


My guess is that it probably wasn't a bearing, but it could have been a part of the slip ring contacting the stator. In my experience that has been the number one culprit of "ticking" alternators (I used to rebuild them for a living).:screwy::beer:


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> My guess is that it probably wasn't a bearing, but it could have been a part of the slip ring contacting the stator. In my experience that has been the number one culprit of "ticking" alternators (I used to rebuild them for a living).:screwy::beer:


Cheers man :thumbup: :beer:

All I know is that the noise is definately gone
...I'm in love with my Corrado again, lol :laugh:


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## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> ...I'm in love with my Corrado again, lol :laugh:


It will be a short love affair... :laugh:


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Ok gents here is the situation: Car is running rich, very very rich. My oil was grey and stunk of oil, gas and carbon and poured out like water. 

I have an irradic idle and sometime very high idle (3000) like the car is trying to warm up all the time.

The culprit: Coolant temp sensor faulty? Perhaps. If not, digifant? Possible. ISV???? I don't think so.

I uploaded this picture as I noticed a sensor on the underside of the coolant inlet where the other two sensors are but I do NOT see a pigtail to plug in there. My Bentley is on it's way any day now but I want to get a head start on this. Is this a dummy filling in the spot? Are the other two plugged in correctly or reversed?

Any insight would be great. :thumbup:


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## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

iMD Autos said:


> Ok gents here is the situation: Car is running rich, very very rich. My oil was grey and stunk of oil, gas and carbon and poured out like water.
> 
> I have an irradic idle and sometime very high idle (3000) like the car is trying to warm up all the time.
> 
> ...


The two coolant sensors on top of that flange seem to be the source of all idle / fuel / etc ills of the G60 engine. I would replace them (and the o-rings) and I believe what you are seeing on the bottom is a "dummy" used in place of a plug that would normally be found there.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

blue coolant temp sensor and also check the wiring to it. Replace your plugs afterwards as well since they will be fouled out. Possibly a bad O2 sensor too. You can check each with the procedure found in the bentley

The idle is another issue from running rich. I would suggest looking for vacuum leaks and checking if the oring on the idle screw is good or not. Then clean the ISV


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## TGG (Jul 21, 2010)

i have 1995 mk3 golf gti with koni's on it...will they fit on my 1990 g60 corrado?


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## passat_98 (Mar 31, 2007)

having problems with headlight wiring. Looking at the wiring diagram I can't figure out what the [6][2] is? It's highlighted in the pic; is it part of the fog light relay?


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

pej said:


> It will be a short love affair... :laugh:


:sly:..........:laugh:


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

TGG said:


> i have 1995 mk3 golf gti with koni's on it...will they fit on my 1990 g60 corrado?


Yep


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

passat_98 said:


> having problems with headlight wiring. Looking at the wiring diagram I can't figure out what the [6][2] is? It's highlighted in the pic; is it part of the fog light relay?


 Wtf kind of diagram is that?


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## passat_98 (Mar 31, 2007)

a crappy pdf I found since I don't have my bentley at work with me 

http://www.corrado.com.pl/elektryka/corrado92.pdf


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## TGG (Jul 21, 2010)

im parting out my 1995 vr6 gti golf...would the rear calipers and rotors fit on my 1990 corrado? Can i switch over the front and back seat from the golf? Any other parts that i could transfer over?


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## Kumba1 (Feb 19, 2011)

*Water temp sensor 92 vr6*

have a 92 vr6 corrado and I need to know what color the water temp sensor is stock, thanks.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

The Bentley shows 3 temperature sensors in the g60 diagram on page 19.3 what gives????


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## RowBoatsVdubs (Mar 18, 2008)

Here's one for you "experts" out there...


whenever you pulled the engine out of your lowered G60, how much did you have to raise the suspension in the front to accommodate for the added weight of the VR6? 

:laugh::laugh: 


_(i realize what i will have to do i just thought it'd be funny to ask)_


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RowBoatsVdubs said:


> Here's one for you "experts" out there...
> 
> 
> whenever you pulled the engine out of your lowered G60, how much did you have to raise the suspension in the front to accommodate for the added weight of the VR6?
> ...


Not much at all. There is only about a 70 lb difference between the two with full accessories.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RowBoatsVdubs said:


> Here's one for you "experts" out there...
> 
> 
> whenever you pulled the engine out of your lowered G60, how much did you have to raise the suspension in the front to accommodate for the added weight of the VR6?
> ...


Also you shouldnt be wasting your time with g60 suspension on a vr swap anyways


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## octo7076 (May 4, 2010)

I have one... I recently bought a '90 Corrado G60. Pretty much stock, except.. on the G-Lader the previous owner mounted/installed a system that recirculates the excess air Back into the charger. ( I just know I'm not explaining this well, I should take pics.) They deleted the plastic hose that goes back up to the crank case ventilation. Ok so that not the Terrible part. Not sure coming from exactly where, but they have a piece of flexible tubing routed to dispose of oil? on to the ground. I'm guessing it's oil. It's not used/blackish oil, but fresh/clean oil. Since December I have only really started the car up once a week, occasionally taking the car for a short 5 mile spin. When it's sitting there at idle, I did notice the other day while the tailpipe was getting rid of condensation, I could actually see condensation coming out of this tube dripping oil? onto the ground. Any help here at all folks?

Thanks,
Dan


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

octo7076 said:


> I have one... I recently bought a '90 Corrado G60. Pretty much stock, except.. on the G-Lader the previous owner mounted/installed a system that recirculates the excess air Back into the charger. ( I just know I'm not explaining this well, I should take pics.) They deleted the plastic hose that goes back up to the crank case ventilation. Ok so that not the Terrible part. Not sure coming from exactly where, but they have a piece of flexible tubing routed to dispose of oil? on to the ground. I'm guessing it's oil. It's not used/blackish oil, but fresh/clean oil. Since December I have only really started the car up once a week, occasionally taking the car for a short 5 mile spin. When it's sitting there at idle, I did notice the other day while the tailpipe was getting rid of condensation, I could actually see condensation coming out of this tube dripping oil? onto the ground. Any help here at all folks?
> 
> Thanks,
> Dan


It is your oil breather and should be routed to a catch can or replace the OE piping :thumbup:


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## octo7076 (May 4, 2010)

Thanks for the info.

Dan:thumbup:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

octo7076 said:


> Thanks for the info.
> 
> Dan:thumbup:


:thumbup:


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

dab043 said:


> Auto trans on 91 G60. After a few minutes of driving when going into 3rd gear it will rev really high before going into gear. It sometimes feels that I will never go into gear, 5K or so on the RPMs before it shifts. After this happens it will shift gears inbetween 4K - 5K for every gear. Sport mode or Economic mode, no difference. Any suggestions?



Try this... When this happens... make sure you have a nice long straight away, get the car into 4th gear and have your RPMs around 3K. Put car into neutral... and then shut off the car. Wait about 5 seconds and then restart it. Then put the car into drive. See if the car goes into 4th without must hassle. If it does, then slow down till you car shifts back into 3rd... and then accelerate and see if your car naturally goes back into 4th when it should. You may need to do this a few times... or complete bring the car to a full stop and shut it off for 2 minutes or so.

If it does shift normally after this procedure, you've got a short somewhere. (I think the K line). I had the same problem with my car and thats what they were able to track it down to. When the TCM detects a short it tries to limit the car shifting into 4th gear, IE 'limp mode'. It will only shift once it feels less damage will be done by shifting than by red lining the tranny.

The reason shutting your car off works is that it clears the active memory of the TCM and it then operates as normal. (though the code is still saved in the TCM history, so it can be pulled later)


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Also posted in the suspension forum:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5197669-Identifying-my-KW-coilovers-one-for-the-experts...

Does anyone know more info about these:

































the part # on them are:

Art.Nr. 15380140 / 15380423
Auftr.Nr. APX300 / APX301
800 1010 / 800 1110

Springs numbers: 
20-60-80 / 20-60-80
50-170 / 40-200
08E05 / 20E05

Body numbers:
65300067 04-05 / 65300066 24/05 


And I have taken apart the front ones -cleaned them , but how to I take apart the rears? Do I unbolt that nut at the top and remove the sleeve ?


----------



## yip (Jul 14, 2003)

RedYellowWhite said:


> And I have taken apart the front ones -cleaned them , but how to I take apart the rears? Do I unbolt that nut at the top and remove the sleeve ?



Yes, remove that top nut and the rest just all slides off!


----------



## RowBoatsVdubs (Mar 18, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Also you shouldnt be wasting your time with g60 suspension on a vr swap anyways


i have glx plus suspension with fk streetlines that were put on the car shortly before the engine was pulled :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## DubLuv1 (Oct 6, 2007)

*Help for a newbie*

Hey guys. I'm trading my Golf for a Corrado. I went to see the car today and there was one concern I had before I pull the trigger on the deal. I've been no stranger to VWs and this would be my 5th, but I've never owned or worked on a Corrado so I'm a little nervous. 

Current owner replaced the whole shift box assembly(cables and all) On the engine bay end, he didn't put the mount bracket back on so it's just flopping around. He has the bracket and I can throw that on. It looks like it's all connected properly. Question#1: there are two cable coming off the shifter box, what are they? 

The other issue is that the clutch pedal has no pressure behind it. Becuse of this, I'm not sure if it is even engaging the clutch properly. If you push it it goes down to the floor with no effort and you have to pull it to get it back up. Could it be a fluid issue? I read somewhere that the brake fluid is also the clutch fluid? The brake fluid was full.

Thanks a lot. It feels weird not knowing an answer to a Vw question :screwy:


----------



## pursuit99 (Apr 3, 2009)

1. One of the cables is moved when you pull the shifter side to side, the other cable moves when you push the shifter forward and back

2. Sounds like a clutch master cylinder to me. My car had the same problem when I first got it. I was able to drive mine home with a rope tied to my clutch pedal to pull it back out


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

yip said:


> Yes, remove that top nut and the rest just all slides off!


Thanks man :thumbup: :beer:


----------



## DubLuv1 (Oct 6, 2007)

pursuit99 said:


> 1. One of the cables is moved when you pull the shifter side to side, the other cable moves when you push the shifter forward and back
> 
> 2. Sounds like a clutch master cylinder to me. My car had the same problem when I first got it. I was able to drive mine home with a rope tied to my clutch pedal to pull it back out


wow thats pretty simply. I assumed it was more complicated cause its a VW :laugh: Good idea with that clutch pedal :thumbup: thanks


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## The Snuggler (May 29, 2010)

Chevman said:


> wow thats pretty simply. I assumed it was more complicated cause its a VW :laugh: Good idea with that clutch pedal :thumbup: thanks


That's how my car was when I first got it thinking it would be something more major. I drove around like that for a few weeks using my foot to pull the clutch pedal back up. Wish I thought about using rope for it but I did get pretty quick with pulling the pedal back up :laugh:


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

TGG said:


> im parting out my 1995 vr6 gti golf...would the rear calipers and rotors fit on my 1990 corrado? Can i switch over the front and back seat from the golf? Any other parts that i could transfer over?


 Seat will not fit, not many parts for a VR will fit the G60.


Kumba1 said:


> have a 92 vr6 corrado and I need to know what color the water temp sensor is stock, thanks.


Blue for the 2 pin, black and blue for the 4 pin that have been updated from yellow and brown. 



iMD Autos said:


> The Bentley shows 3 temperature sensors in the g60 diagram on page 19.3 what gives????


AC would be the 3rd water temp sensor on the bottom of the flange with the other 2.


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## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> AC would be the 3rd water temp sensor on the bottom of the flange with the other 2.


There's supposed to be another water temp sensor on the bottom of that flange?? 

I have a blank plug there... any thoughts?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

pej said:


> There's supposed to be another water temp sensor on the bottom of that flange??
> 
> I have a blank plug there... any thoughts?


G60 is supposed to be a blank there


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Nevermind. answered my own question.


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> G60 is supposed to be a blank there


Oh wow I did somethin' right!


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

pej said:


> Oh wow I did somethin' right!


:laugh: I was WRONG!!!!!  :banghead: :screwy: :laugh:

I thought the 4cyl cars had the additional AC water temp sensor like the newer cars do.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> :laugh: I was WRONG!!!!!  :banghead: :screwy: :laugh: ...


suprised face:









:laugh:


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> :laugh: I was WRONG!!!!!  :banghead: :screwy: :laugh:
> 
> I thought the 4cyl cars had the additional AC water temp sensor like the newer cars do.


:laugh: It happens to the best of us. :beer:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

:laugh: 

Bump this up for zee noobs.


----------



## dab043 (Jun 8, 2005)

cyberstasi said:


> Try this... When this happens... make sure you have a nice long straight away, get the car into 4th gear and have your RPMs around 3K. Put car into neutral... and then shut off the car. Wait about 5 seconds and then restart it. Then put the car into drive. See if the car goes into 4th without must hassle. If it does, then slow down till you car shifts back into 3rd... and then accelerate and see if your car naturally goes back into 4th when it should. You may need to do this a few times... or complete bring the car to a full stop and shut it off for 2 minutes or so.
> 
> If it does shift normally after this procedure, you've got a short somewhere. (I think the K line). I had the same problem with my car and thats what they were able to track it down to. When the TCM detects a short it tries to limit the car shifting into 4th gear, IE 'limp mode'. It will only shift once it feels less damage will be done by shifting than by red lining the tranny.
> 
> The reason shutting your car off works is that it clears the active memory of the TCM and it then operates as normal. (though the code is still saved in the TCM history, so it can be pulled later)


thanks I will give that a try. Did finding the short and repairing it fix your issue?


----------



## Kumba1 (Feb 19, 2011)

I got a 92 vr6 and I have a few problems with my car I believe. 1. I believe my fans aren't coming on while im driving the car until the stage 2 which is at 230 and is very loud, car heats up very quick at a light or something to 230 then cools down around there and stays at 230 until i start moving. From 180~229 I dont hear any fans on the car until i turn off the car and they kick in... I don't know what this would be.. Another problem is my car seems to be studdering at no movement, when i slow down to stop, the car will go from like 800 rpm to 500 like it's about to lose power or something. I changed the water temp sensor which the sensor was green but this solved nothing...Finally, my car sometimes has a bad start, i'll hold the key over for about 3~5 secs bfore it starts, and sometimes it starts like a new car. I've putten fuel injection cleaner in it, synthetic oil.. Nothing changed.. Every place i've taken this car they have no clue what the car is and I just dont trust them so just some suggestions on what these problems could be or a link to a diy post would be helpful thanks.


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

dab043 said:


> thanks I will give that a try. Did finding the short and repairing it fix your issue?


I still havent found the damn thing. :banghead: But from the error codes in the TCM thats what it is. I've swapped out several TCMs and they all read the same thing, so I know my TCM is good.. Been through that harness several times now... sadly I still havent found it. I could just pay the shop to find it... but i dont want to pay for a million hours of labor for them to locate it. I'll find it eventually, or get fed up and finally drop the coin for the engine swap I want to do. 
It'd probably be eaiser for me to just buy a new harness... but sometimes I like doing things the hard way. :laugh:


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

*activ*

was the activ system ever installed in a 93 by the factory? My rear speakers sound like isht:thumbdown:


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

no


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## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

[email protected] said:


> was the activ system ever installed in a 93 by the factory? My rear speakers sound like isht:thumbdown:


 The rear speakers on AKTIV cars were no different than non AKTIV, they were just powered off of the door amps, instead of the HU. I think...


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

NoCYet said:


> The rear speakers on AKTIV cars were no different than non AKTIV, they were just powered off of the door amps, instead of the HU. I think...


yep, all speakers were powered from the door amps on aktiv systems :thumbup:


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> yep, all speakers were powered from the door amps on aktiv systems :thumbup:


And they sound like a$$.


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

How hard is it to take apart a VR6 head? Do I need any special tools?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

iAco said:


> How hard is it to take apart a VR6 head? Do I need any special tools?


An overhead valve spring compressor. Other than that you shouldn't need anything special. The craftsman valve spring compressor is too long BTW. You will need one that is smaller. :thumbup:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

iAco said:


> How hard is it to take apart a VR6 head? Do I need any special tools?


Taking it apart is fun. 

Get a socket and a 6" extension that fits in the follower hole (haha) and that you dont care too much about. 

Get a hammer. With the cams and lifters out, and head on a sturdy flat surface, hit the socket and extension to make the keepers come out. Get a magnet to obtain them if they fall in the head too. 

Then pull the springs, and seals out, then flip over and remove valves. 
I only use spring compressors for reassembly. :thumbup:


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Why does the water pump pulley need to be swapped out when doing an AC delete? Where can one find this pulley


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\

Anyone? Is this water pump pulley available anywhere and which vehicle is it from??


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

TheBurninator said:


> An overhead valve spring compressor. Other than that you shouldn't need anything special. The craftsman valve spring compressor is too long BTW. You will need one that is smaller. :thumbup:


Thanks. :thumbup:



DUBZAK said:


> Taking it apart is fun.
> 
> Get a socket and a 6" extension that fits in the follower hole (haha) and that you dont care too much about.
> 
> ...



I feel like I might break something if I use this method.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

iMD Autos said:


> /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
> 
> Anyone? Is this water pump pulley available anywhere and which vehicle is it from??


VR6


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Not likely you would break something unless you decide to hit the head with a hammer and miss the socket. :laugh:


----------



## dflemin4 (Jan 12, 2011)

If I have a lysholm supercharger on my G60 should I go with a 2.25 or 2.5 exhaust. Any thoughts on ways to get my odometer working. It only works half the time.


----------



## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

Experts, what belt should I use on a VR with Power steering pump and AC delete, and an ECS crank pulley?
Yes, one that fits, I know. But anyone has picked one up from a store that fits well? Numbers off the brand etc please? Thanks.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

dflemin4 said:


> If I have a lysholm supercharger on my G60 should I go with a 2.25 or 2.5 exhaust. Any thoughts on ways to get my odometer working. It only works half the time.


 Do you want power or quiet? That is the difference between them. 



NYCGTM said:


> Experts, what belt should I use on a VR with Power steering pump and AC delete, and an ECS crank pulley?
> Yes, one that fits, I know. But anyone has picked one up from a store that fits well? Numbers off the brand etc please? Thanks.


James @ Four Season should have what you need. :thumbup:


----------



## DubLuv1 (Oct 6, 2007)

*popping my Corrado cherry was a mess!*

I picked up my 1990 G60 tonight. On the way home something snapped when i tried to shift into 3rd gear and suddenly I couldnt get into any gear at all. This is my first Corrado so Im trying to learn as I go. 










The shift lever to the right is supposed to wrap around that black bushing. (as im sure you already know) My question is, how to take that off to replace? Please dont tell me I have to remove the entire shift cable  I have a Bentley but it doesnt specify.

Thanks :beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Chevman said:


> I picked up my 1990 G60 tonight. On the way home something snapped when i tried to shift into 3rd gear and suddenly I couldnt get into any gear at all. This is my first Corrado so Im trying to learn as I go.
> 
> 
> The shift lever to the right is supposed to wrap around that black bushing. (as im sure you already know) My question is, how to take that off to replace? Please dont tell me I have to remove the entire shift cable  I have a Bentley but it doesnt specify.
> ...


I am not sure how the G60 is configured, had mine apart last week, but didn't pull the ends off. Peel back the rubber boot and see if the part looks to be threaded on.

I'm sure someone will chime in with a pn or something. :thumbup:


----------



## '90G60C0RRAD0 (Sep 11, 2010)

*louver*

'90g60rado' woulda scirocco rer window louver fit ona corrado..? i also seen old Crx rear louvers taht look like might work also..


----------



## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

Chevman said:


> The shift lever to the right is supposed to wrap around that black bushing. (as im sure you already know) My question is, how to take that off to replace? Please dont tell me I have to remove the entire shift cable  I have a Bentley but it doesnt specify.
> 
> Thanks :beer:



Think you need to replace the cable. This design stinks.


----------



## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

Another shifter question. I lost reverse. I can get it to go in reverse my moving the cables around in the engine bay just not from the shifter. I can get into all the other gears no problem. I did find a piece broken on the shifter itself, the piece that holds the spring part tight together. I looked through ETKA and didn't see anything as far what looked broken. Can the shifters be rebuilt and if so, how much can you rebuild on them?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> Another shifter question. I lost reverse. I can get it to go in reverse my moving the cables around in the engine bay just not from the shifter. I can get into all the other gears no problem. I did find a piece broken on the shifter itself, the piece that holds the spring part tight together. I looked through ETKA and didn't see anything as far what looked broken. Can the shifters be rebuilt and if so, how much can you rebuild on them?


Rick, the parts are cheap and if you don't have enough motion on the reverse pick-up, it WILL NOT go into gear :thumbup:


----------



## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

I will have to take a picture of what is broken and maybe can tell what the part number is to replace it.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> I will have to take a picture of what is broken and maybe can tell what the part number is to replace it.


Itz your googenfastna, $125 dollas :laugh:


----------



## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

I'll take 2 then.

Here are the pics:

This where it looks to be broken.










This is part that I need to replace if it is broken.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> I'll take 2 then.
> 
> Here are the pics:
> 
> ...


If I am not mistaken, all of the pieces which make up the shifter are still available at the dealer. I remember seeing someone posting an entire shifter rebuild parts list that made it easy for us to just go to the dealer and hand it to them.


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

Are the fogs supposed to come on without any other lights on? I have to turn on my parking lights before they will come on. Also, I bought my C with ecodes already installed and they appear to be relayed. Did the euro cars have a different switch to turn on the city lights? Mine come on with the parking lights only and stay on with the headlights. Thanks for all the help!! And I went to an amazing Blazers game last night and it was great. Overtime win by 1 point.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> I'll take 2 then.
> 
> Here are the pics:
> 
> ...


Rick, sounds good, paypal? :laugh:

Those bushings are super easy to replace and I bought both for like $7, made it shift like brand new, best cheap investment evar

:thumbup:


iMD Autos said:


> If I am not mistaken, all of the pieces which make up the shifter are still available at the dealer. I remember seeing someone posting an entire shifter rebuild parts list that made it easy for us to just go to the dealer and hand it to them.


That they are like #3.50 each 



[email protected] said:


> Are the fogs supposed to come on without any other lights on? I have to turn on my parking lights before they will come on. Also, I bought my C with ecodes already installed and they appear to be relayed. Did the euro cars have a different switch to turn on the city lights? Mine come on with the parking lights only and stay on with the headlights. Thanks for all the help!! And I went to an amazing Blazers game last night and it was great. Overtime win by 1 point.


sounds right to me


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> I'll take 2 then.
> 
> Here are the pics:
> 
> This where it looks to be broken.



I just did this job. In the first pic there are two bushings that snap together to keep the spring in place. yours is definitely broken.
Here are 2 pics with all the bushings, and part #s. You might as well change them all if you're taking it apart anyway. The little ball shaped on is a real PITA.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Does anyone happen to know if any oil relocation kit is better than another when it comes to the 1.8v? Brand? Site?


----------



## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

Thanks Todd. I ordered everything but the 2 springs you have shown. I found a write up on here to do it. Just have to figure how to get under the car to do all this.


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

You can pull the shifter mechanism out the top with just a little bit of grinding to the metal that blocks the long bolt from coming out all the way. There is a lip on the tunnel opening that gets in the way from allowing the bolt to come out far enough so you can pull the shifter out the top. Once you grind the lip and get the bolt out you can pull everything out the top. Saves so much time. I can post pics if you need it. :thumbup:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

iMD Autos said:


> Does anyone happen to know if any oil relocation kit is better than another when it comes to the 1.8v? Brand? Site?


I assume you are talking about an external oil cooler? I used a setup from a Volvo, PM day1134, he got a setup for around $200, IIRC it was Autotech and pretty damn nice. I only saved a few bukks and got mostly used stuff, my biggest expense was the fittings from aeroquip.



dogger said:


> You can pull the shifter mechanism out the top with just a little bit of grinding to the metal that blocks the long bolt from coming out all the way. There is a lip on the tunnel opening that gets in the way from allowing the bolt to come out far enough so you can pull the shifter out the top. Once you grind the lip and get the bolt out you can pull everything out the top. Saves so much time. I can post pics if you need it. :thumbup:


I did it like this too, although I did not shave anything or replace all of what was posted in the pic. It was VERY tight, but did manage to get the center longitudinal pin out and back in without removal of the box from the bottom. A much better way than having to drop the exhaust and heat shield :thumbup:


----------



## jbcmass (Feb 27, 2011)

*My corrado runs bad*

I have a 90 G60. The car ran great when I got it 3 years ago. It started to idle funny, so I did not drive it for a year or so. I been trying to run it now, and it runs real rough. I gave it a tune-up and it still idles up and down and blows a ton of carbon out of the tail pipe. It will run and drive now, just has no power. The car has no upgrades from stock and my workability on the car is ok if someone explaines it to me like a 5 year old. Thanks for any sort of help getting this classic back on the road.


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

jbcmass said:


> I have a 90 G60. The car ran great when I got it 3 years ago. It started to idle funny, so I did not drive it for a year or so. I been trying to run it now, and it runs real rough. I gave it a tune-up and it still idles up and down and blows a ton of carbon out of the tail pipe. It will run and drive now, just has no power. The car has no upgrades from stock and my workability on the car is ok if someone explaines it to me like a 5 year old. Thanks for any sort of help getting this classic back on the road.


Start with the coolant temp sensors on the coolant flange at the front of the head. This sees to be the cure to all ills for G60s.

...and maybe GTI's too...? (right Chad?)


----------



## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

dogger said:


> You can pull the shifter mechanism out the top with just a little bit of grinding to the metal that blocks the long bolt from coming out all the way. There is a lip on the tunnel opening that gets in the way from allowing the bolt to come out far enough so you can pull the shifter out the top. Once you grind the lip and get the bolt out you can pull everything out the top. Saves so much time. I can post pics if you need it. :thumbup:


Pics would be very helpful.


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

Does a G60 water pump replacement require messing with the timing belt? I need mine replaced and the shop that told me it had to be done estimated ~$350-400 (expected) and said that doing it on my own would be trouble because of the timing belt.


----------



## 20thAEGti1009 (Jan 28, 2005)

No it does not. The g60 is an external water pump block. The only thing you need to do is take off the v belt that drives the power steering pump. They r trying to take u for a ride.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

20thAEGti1009 said:


> No it does not. The g60 is an external water pump block. The only thing you need to do is take off the v belt that drives the power steering pump. They r trying to take u for a ride.


This..


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

jbcmass said:


> I have a 90 G60. The car ran great when I got it 3 years ago. It started to idle funny, so I did not drive it for a year or so. I been trying to run it now, and it runs real rough. I gave it a tune-up and it still idles up and down and blows a ton of carbon out of the tail pipe. It will run and drive now, just has no power. The car has no upgrades from stock and my workability on the car is ok if someone explaines it to me like a 5 year old. Thanks for any sort of help getting this classic back on the road.


Too many things to list, especially if you have let it sit that long, re-vamp the fuel system and re-post :thumbup:


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I assume you are talking about an external oil cooler? I used a setup from a Volvo, PM day1134, he got a setup for around $200, IIRC it was Autotech and pretty damn nice. I only saved a few bukks and got mostly used stuff, my biggest expense was the fittings from aeroquip.


Yessir. More so relocating the filter out of that spot but also placing an external oil cooler. There are hundreds of oil coolers available online. Wasn't sure if any particular relocation kit fit better on the block. See many kits available but nothing VW specific.

Yeah the fittings are what cost money. I have always purchased all of my stuff on www.anplumbing.com only because they have many metric sized fittings and that they probably have the largest selection around. Prices seem to be great too :thumbup:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

iMD Autos said:


> Yessir. More so relocating the filter out of that spot but also placing an external oil cooler. There are hundreds of oil coolers available online. Wasn't sure if any particular relocation kit fit better on the block. See many kits available but nothing VW specific.
> 
> Yeah the fittings are what cost money. I have always purchased all of my stuff on www.anplumbing.com only because they have many metric sized fittings and that they probably have the largest selection around. Prices seem to be great too :thumbup:


I'm sure what you see online is fairly similar to one another, although I would not skimp on the oiling system. I have no idea about filter relocation kits tho, planning to relocate it to the cabin? :laugh:


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> Pics would be very helpful.






















:beer:


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

iMD Autos said:


> Yessir. More so relocating the filter out of that spot but also placing an external oil cooler. There are hundreds of oil coolers available online. Wasn't sure if any particular relocation kit fit better on the block. See many kits available but nothing VW specific.
> 
> Yeah the fittings are what cost money. I have always purchased all of my stuff on www.anplumbing.com only because they have many metric sized fittings and that they probably have the largest selection around. Prices seem to be great too :thumbup:


I bought my whole set up from this place that is local to me. Really good people and their prices are good. http://www.bakerprecision.com/

They sell Setrab coolers and the Redhorse fittings are really nice. Priced less too.


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

jbcmass said:


> I have a 90 G60. The car ran great when I got it 3 years ago. It started to idle funny, so I did not drive it for a year or so. I been trying to run it now, and it runs real rough. I gave it a tune-up and it still idles up and down and blows a ton of carbon out of the tail pipe. It will run and drive now, just has no power. The car has no upgrades from stock and my workability on the car is ok if someone explaines it to me like a 5 year old. Thanks for any sort of help getting this classic back on the road.



How does it run when its cold versus when its warmed up?


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I'm sure what you see online is fairly similar to one another, although I would not skimp on the oiling system. I have no idea about filter relocation kits tho, planning to relocate it to the cabin? :laugh:


Cabin....hmmmm radiant heat when its cold out.. I like it! lol I am not sure where its going yet :laugh:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

iMD Autos said:


> Cabin....hmmmm radiant heat when its cold out.. I like it! lol I am not sure where its going yet :laugh:


intermittent auxiliary heat :laugh:


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

*HELP*

ok i have a problem with my spoiler. i think it might be the spoiler control unit thing behind the dash. the problem is that the one i have is the one that looks like a relay and i bought one from another corrado but its the type that are plug in (male/female) so they are different. i was wondering if anyone knew the wiring diagram for both? i have a bently but cant find anything.
the control unit came from a 93 corrado.

thanks :thumbup:


----------



## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

dogger said:


> :beer:


So all you did was shave the front lip down to get the bolt out? Looks easy enough.


----------



## jgcable (Sep 24, 2010)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> So all you did was shave the front lip down to get the bolt out? Looks easy enough.



Yes, that was the only mod required. The B&M 45106 Sport Short Shifter went in without a hitch and works perfectly.


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

20thAEGti1009 said:


> No it does not. The g60 is an external water pump block. The only thing you need to do is take off the v belt that drives the power steering pump. They r trying to take u for a ride.





TheBurninator said:


> This..


Does this include replacing the housing as well or is that a whole nother story? I drove it with frozen coolant accidentally and I imagine something cracked, it was recommended that I replace the housing while I'm at it


----------



## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

jgcable said:


> Yes, that was the only mod required. The B&M 45106 Sport Short Shifter went in without a hitch and works perfectly.


Thanks.


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

I would also suggest taking a picture of the bolt and the metal bracket before disassembling everything. That way you can see where to line it up when you reassemble it. It needs to be in the same position to work properly. This will make things easier rather than trying to figure out later how to adjust it.


----------



## MR. EUROTRASH (Feb 19, 2011)

*help*

so my mark 3 jettas coolings system is a pile of ****... when i try to burb the system sometimes the coolant just starts bubling out and doesnt actually burp. also my cooling fan only comes on when it wants to... what could be causing the fan to come on intermitantly..


----------



## jbcmass (Feb 27, 2011)

dogger said:


> How does it run when its cold versus when its warmed up?


Seems to run poor all the time. I can start it up and it may idle high or sometimes too low and stall. I drove it now, and before I parked it and it seemed not to have as much power anymore. I know that the gas mileage went down, and I have been cleaning up carbon mess on the back of the car from the tail pipe. I'm just not too sure where to start. It was running great until one thing went wrong. Instantly went South after that. Could a bad idle stabalizer valve cause tons of carbon and idle to go up and down?


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

ISV wouldn't do that. I would try replacing the blue coolant temp sensor since its cheap.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jbcmass said:


> Seems to run poor all the time. I can start it up and it may idle high or sometimes too low and stall. I drove it now, and before I parked it and it seemed not to have as much power anymore. I know that the gas mileage went down, and I have been cleaning up carbon mess on the back of the car from the tail pipe. I'm just not too sure where to start. It was running great until one thing went wrong. Instantly went South after that. Could a bad idle stabalizer valve cause tons of carbon and idle to go up and down?





dogger said:


> ISV wouldn't do that. I would try replacing the blue coolant temp sensor since its cheap.


This ^ and since you have been running so rich your plugs are probably fouled along with the o2 sensor.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

elijah- said:


> Does this include replacing the housing as well or is that a whole nother story? I drove it with frozen coolant accidentally and I imagine something cracked, it was recommended that I replace the housing while I'm at it


If you replace the housing then you need to remove the AC bracket and alternator to get to it, but still nothing to do with the timing belt.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

MR. EUROTRASH said:


> so my mark 3 jettas coolings system is a pile of ****... when i try to burb the system sometimes the coolant just starts bubling out and doesnt actually burp. also my cooling fan only comes on when it wants to... what could be causing the fan to come on intermitantly..


It being a mk3 and you posting in the corrado forums would cause that.

I never understand why people can't read which forum they are in for this thread.


----------



## MR. EUROTRASH (Feb 19, 2011)

lol d a m n i thought i posted in the right one this time sorry im not used to the vortex sight yet sorry


----------



## Nstuart88 (Jan 29, 2010)

Hey guys.first off as far as experience on working on cars, i dont have much but am fully capable of doing the work with a little technical assistance. 

I have a 93 2.8 vr6 corrado (currently have the engine on an engine stand)

Im thinking about boring out to 2.9 (or maybe even 3.0), turbo-charging it, and swapping over to OBDII

I was hoping yall could give me a little insight into what boring the engine out requires

ex: do i need bigger valves, different ecu,what type of pistons & rods should i get


----------



## seguro80 (Jan 24, 2011)

*mess of a rado*

so im doing my own port on a spare g60 and i noticed im missing a part but im not sure which one it is so i dont order the wrong one 

its the lock tha holds the upper cog wheel im not sure which one it is 
i think they call them fitting keys and theres two very small ones on the top cog wheel shaft but i only have one 

whats the real name of this parts and wher the hek do i find another one ?:banghead:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Nstuart88 said:


> Hey guys.first off as far as experience on working on cars, i dont have much but am fully capable of doing the work with a little technical assistance.
> 
> I have a 93 2.8 vr6 corrado (currently have the engine on an engine stand)
> 
> ...


The easiest and cheapest route to take would be going with the factory 2.9 pistons. For the actual boring portion you need to take the block to a machine shop that has a torque plate for a VR6.

You may want to have them put it together for you if you are asking about how to do all of this though.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

seguro80 said:


> so im doing my own port on a spare g60 and i noticed im missing a part but im not sure which one it is so i dont order the wrong one
> 
> its the lock tha holds the upper cog wheel im not sure which one it is
> i think they call them fitting keys and theres two very small ones on the top cog wheel shaft but i only have one
> ...


Keyway

etka shows nothing for parts on the charger unfortunately


----------



## seguro80 (Jan 24, 2011)

*mess of a rado*



TheBurninator said:


> Keyway
> 
> etka shows nothing for parts on the charger unfortunately


 so am i in a bad situation ??
i cant put the upper cog belt on with out this lock mechanism and im searching and i cant find anything everything i find is for the main balance shaft and i really dont want to take it of my other charger i wanna have two working chargers :banghead:


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## Nstuart88 (Jan 29, 2010)

nothing i cant handle with the bentley and a torque wrench, besides i have to learn sometime. but as far as the head does anything need to be altered? oversized valves, or anything? any suggestions would be appreciated.and price isnt to big of a problem its tax return time


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

seguro80 said:


> so am i in a bad situation ??
> i cant put the upper cog belt on with out this lock mechanism and im searching and i cant find anything everything i find is for the main balance shaft and i really dont want to take it of my other charger i wanna have two working chargers :banghead:


You should be able to pick up keyway stock at a good local auto parts store, then grind it to fit :thumbup:


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## DrivenNails (Aug 31, 2008)

*Brake popping?*

I have the original abs booster and such. my lights been on for a while now and have been ignoring it until the spring. But I drive and I brake all fine and dandy-like. now however there is a popping sound when I brake a little hard. it doesn't happen all the time. but its not that loud but audible enough to hear. I think its from the right rear brake but I was wondering if it was abs related? thanks!:banghead: 

does anyone have a b3 passat brake assembly?

http://www.oichan.org/mods/abs/abs2.htm


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DrivenNails said:


> I have the original abs booster and such. my lights been on for a while now and have been ignoring it until the spring. But I drive and I brake all fine and dandy-like. now however there is a popping sound when I brake a little hard. it doesn't happen all the time. but its not that loud but audible enough to hear. I think its from the right rear brake but I was wondering if it was abs related? thanks!:banghead:
> 
> does anyone have a b3 passat brake assembly?
> 
> http://www.oichan.org/mods/abs/abs2.htm


yep, ABS sukks and I can get you what you need for $150 shipped :thumbup:


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## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

Thanks for the pump info folks... now, I'm going to order one so that I can have it ready to replace when spring break starts a week from today, any suggestions as far as where to order one? I read someones post saying only buy a certain German made one, but I don't remember where I read that.

I plan on replacing the housing as well as the pump.. usually for this type of repair I get the rebuilt NAPA parts and give them my old core, but if anyone has a suggestion before I go that route let me know :thumbup:

Now that I think about it, I doubt they'll even have one anywhere in the area...


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

elijah- said:


> Thanks for the pump info folks... now, I'm going to order one so that I can have it ready to replace when spring break starts a week from today, any suggestions as far as where to order one? I read someones post saying only buy a certain German made one, but I don't remember where I read that.
> 
> I plan on replacing the housing as well as the pump.. usually for this type of repair I get the rebuilt NAPA parts and give them my old core, but if anyone has a suggestion before I go that route let me know :thumbup:
> 
> Now that I think about it, I doubt they'll even have one anywhere in the area...


housing should come with a new pump :thumbup:


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Nstuart88 said:


> nothing i cant handle with the bentley and a torque wrench, besides i have to learn sometime. but as far as the head does anything need to be altered? oversized valves, or anything? any suggestions would be appreciated.and price isnt to big of a problem its tax return time


Nothing NEEDS to be changed, but you NEED to hit the 12v forums and do a lot of reading. Check some of the build threads in here as well, I have a fully forged 2.9 bottom end I completed last year you can check out the thread in my sig. 

I hope you get like 4k back....the bottom end will cost you $$$$ to do it right, and if you want to do headwork ala big valve cylinder head, add 3k. Oh, and you will need a machine shop that knows VR6's or you might as well buy a built motor ready to swap in.


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## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> housing should come with a new pump :thumbup:


Seems like you can buy the pump separately ($30 or so) and the housing + pump for $55+. Just placed an order from German Auto Parts. I've heard the name tossed around here, hopefully they're a solid company!


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## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

GAP, German Auto Parts is great. Made many purchases from them.
I have a few spare ones if anyone is interested. As well as sensors etc.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

elijah- said:


> Seems like you can buy the pump separately ($30 or so) and the housing + pump for $55+. Just placed an order from German Auto Parts. I've heard the name tossed around here, hopefully they're a solid company!


GAP :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:



NYCGTM said:


> GAP, German Auto Parts is great. Made many purchases from them.
> I have a few spare ones if anyone is interested. As well as sensors etc.


:beer:



DUBZAK said:


> Nothing NEEDS to be changed, but you NEED to hit the 12v forums and do a lot of reading. Check some of the build threads in here as well, I have a fully forged 2.9 bottom end I completed last year you can check out the thread in my sig.
> 
> I hope you get like 4k back....the bottom end will cost you $$$$ to do it right, and if you want to do headwork ala big valve cylinder head, add 3k. Oh, and you will need a machine shop that knows VR6's or you might as well buy a built motor ready to swap in.


Most of the money you spent was in forging your block :laugh:


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## Nstuart88 (Jan 29, 2010)

thanks for the info man.im getting around 10k back so i should be set.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Nstuart88 said:


> thanks for the info man.im getting around 10k back so i should be set.



If you're getting 10k back on taxes, you're doing it extremely wrong, think of all the $$ you could have made on it this past year instead of ole uncle sam holding on to it for ya :facepalm:


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## Nstuart88 (Jan 29, 2010)

Not really I claim single all year then I claim my mom and 2 lil bros at the end of the year.i kinda like getting the big hunk of change back all at once.hell that's how I got the rado last year.


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## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

Sr. Karmann said:


> If you're getting 10k back on taxes, you're doing it extremely wrong, think of all the $$ you could have made on it this past year instead of ole uncle sam holding on to it for ya :facepalm:



Aren't you on food stamps and every other government assistance program?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Nstuart88 said:


> Not really I claim single all year then I claim my mom and 2 lil bros at the end of the year.i kinda like getting the big hunk of change back all at once.hell that's how I got the rado last year.


some folks don't get it, why let uncle sam make money on your money, when you could have been investing it wisely throughout the year :facepalm:



dogger said:


> Aren't you on food stamps and every other government assistance program?


Not yet, but if I call my folks "the government", I suppose yes :laugh:


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## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> some folks don't get it, why let uncle sam make money on your money, when you could have been investing it wisely throughout the year :facepalm:
> 
> 
> 
> Not yet, but if I call my folks "the government", I suppose yes :laugh:


We need to start a Corrado Trust Fund. Send me your money.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

pej said:


> We need to start a Corrado Trust Fund. Send me your money.


Definitely a wise investment :laugh:


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

Have a weird issue that's starting to bug me:

My spoiler hasn't worked for some time now (it goes up with the switch and at speed but doesn't go down with the switch or at speed) - so I disconnected the plug in the hatch. Decided to check the wiring a week ago and wasn't getting any voltage at the plug. (I've also noticed that the rear defroster doesn't work). About 2 months ago, my heated seats got stuck on (at the 4th position even after I pulled the switch) and I had to disconnect them at the seat plug. Now the e-brake light and the abs light have shut off (don't even light up when I first start up the car). today my oil light was flashing but the buzzer wasn't making any noise.

what's going on in there!? what's with the electrical mutiny? :banghead:


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

valet said:


> Have a weird issue that's starting to bug me:
> 
> My spoiler hasn't worked for some time now (it goes up with the switch and at speed but doesn't go down with the switch or at speed) - so I disconnected the plug in the hatch. Decided to check the wiring a week ago and wasn't getting any voltage at the plug. (I've also noticed that the rear defroster doesn't work). About 2 months ago, my heated seats got stuck on (at the 4th position even after I pulled the switch) and I had to disconnect them at the seat plug. Now the e-brake light and the abs light have shut off (don't even light up when I first start up the car). today my oil light was flashing but the buzzer wasn't making any noise.
> 
> what's going on in there!? what's with the electrical mutiny? :banghead:


Only advice for you on this: Get out the multimeter, test light, and the bentley. Start checking things. The spoiler not going down is more than likely mechanical issue though. Probably needs to be serviced. Does it blow the fuse?


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

spoiler has been serviced - cleaned and lubed - never blew a fuse on that track... gonna have a fun day w/ the multimeter this weekend


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## Nstuart88 (Jan 29, 2010)

Ya I do agree with you on that but I'm 22,work all over the east coast, live out of hotels and tend to blow a lot of money at bars and on other stupid **** I don't need.so its better they hold on to it or id end up spending it....


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## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

Are there any DIYs/writeups for a G60 water pump replacement? I've found a VR6 one, but nothing as far as G60 goes.. the Bentley isn't all that descriptive.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

valet said:


> spoiler has been serviced - cleaned and lubed - never blew a fuse on that track... gonna have a fun day w/ the multimeter this weekend


more than likely it is the limit switch inside the spoiler motor or gear set. Can't remember exactly where it was.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

elijah- said:


> Are there any DIYs/writeups for a G60 water pump replacement? I've found a VR6 one, but nothing as far as G60 goes.. the Bentley isn't all that descriptive.


It's not descriptive like a haynes, but there is more than enough info to get you through it, first go into the charger section and remove the charger and bracket, then the waterpump is right there :thumbup:


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

TheBurninator said:


> more than likely it is the limit switch inside the spoiler motor or gear set. Can't remember exactly where it was.



are you talking about the microswitches that are in the housing







(wires at the top of the pic)

if so, I've tried two different sets


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## ballski (Jun 13, 2006)

I've done some searching, but couldn't find anything helpful...

What's the best way to install a Kamei style grill spoiler on the corrado? I don't wan't to see a bunch of screw heads or anything like that.....

Or if anyone has a link to a DIY, it's be much appreciated.

Thanks gentlemen :thumbup:


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

ballski00 said:


> I've done some searching, but couldn't find anything helpful...
> 
> What's the best way to install a Kamei style grill spoiler on the corrado? I don't wan't to see a bunch of screw heads or anything like that.....
> 
> ...


No much help then, but mine is placed with 3 tiny screws (which you can't see with the hood closed). 2 through the headlight bezels (one on each side) and 2 in the between space. 
I think its safer and more durable like that rather than with epoxy/glue or something


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## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

I can't seem to find anything in the Bentley about this but, my trunk will not open. The key won't even turn when I put it into the lock. Is there another way of opening it? This is probably a dumb question but I'd thought I'd ask because I'm stumped. Thanks in advance.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

bpodlesnik said:


> I can't seem to find anything in the Bentley about this but, my trunk will not open. The key won't even turn when I put it into the lock. Is there another way of opening it? This is probably a dumb question but I'd thought I'd ask because I'm stumped. Thanks in advance.


Did you try to put the key and push it inwards?


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## Zorn1 (Jul 31, 2008)

i have a weird turn signal issue, i've gone through 5 pages of the search and nothing is similar to my problem, my driver's side turn signal works when the headlights are off, but when i turn them on, it stops working. any help?


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## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Did you try to put the key and push it inwards?


Yes, and it will push in, it just won't turn but maybe a degree. I tried turning it pretty hard to, any more and I feel like the key is going to bend or something.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Zorn1 said:


> i have a weird turn signal issue, i've gone through 5 pages of the search and nothing is similar to my problem, my driver's side turn signal works when the headlights are off, but when i turn them on, it stops working. any help?


Wiring issue.

Check for shorts


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## hendrikbmx (Oct 12, 2009)

so, last year my hatch didn't lock when I pressed the central locking button on the remote. I did this several times, when finally it did lock, since that it has not unlocked, no big deal, it was winter and the car wasn't driven. Well now I need the hatch to unlock, I had a spare key with car, but thats exactly the same as the ignition one. and both of these don't go in all the way on the hatch. basically I hear a sound in the hatch, like zzzzzzZZZMMM, but the button on the outside that I press moves really easy, like nothing engages inside. I do not have a parcel shelf in the car, basically I could get in the rear of the car. HELP!


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

ballski00 said:


> I've done some searching, but couldn't find anything helpful...
> 
> What's the best way to install a Kamei style grill spoiler on the corrado? I don't wan't to see a bunch of screw heads or anything like that.....
> 
> ...


I use 3M double sided sticky tape, works well :thumbup:


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## JayTeeVW (Nov 27, 2010)

OK so here goes...been an air-cooled guy for years with a few H2O's here and there....finally bought a Corrado G60 and now I have blown 2 superchargers due to broken cog belts (the original and now a replacement bought from a vwvortex member)....my question is this....could I have possibly done something wrong when I installed it or just bad luck? And is there anyway to run the car without a supercharger hooked up? I took one of the chargers and gutted it out and put back on the car but with the oil lines hooked up it of course is gonna leak. I need some help...lol. Its a 1991 G60 with what I believe to be a stock engine and all.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

JayTeeVW said:


> OK so here goes...been an air-cooled guy for years with a few H2O's here and there....finally bought a Corrado G60 and now I have blown 2 superchargers due to broken cog belts (the original and now a replacement bought from a vwvortex member)....my question is this....could I have possibly done something wrong when I installed it or just bad luck? And is there anyway to run the car without a supercharger hooked up? I took one of the chargers and gutted it out and put back on the car but with the oil lines hooked up it of course is gonna leak. I need some help...lol. Its a 1991 G60 with what I believe to be a stock engine and all.


Yeah you can run it without the charger, just need a shorter belt. cant remember what size off the top of my head.

And you will an intake to use and a filter so you don't suck in random crap.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Any recommendations on an adhesive for re-upholstering my door cards? Thanks


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## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

Go to a upholstery shop with a plastic container that seals air tight. See if they will sell you some of the adhesive they use. Typically they use the best stuff there is. DAP Welwood Landau Top Adhesive. You can use it two ways. If you have a air compressor, you can get a cheap spray gun. It can also be brushed on as well. Its by far the best adhesive you can use and way better than anything in a spray can. Just make sure you use it properly.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

dogger said:


> Go to a upholstery shop with a plastic container that seals air tight. See if they will sell you some of the adhesive they use. Typically they use the best stuff there is. DAP Welwood Landau Top Adhesive. You can use it two ways. If you have a air compressor, you can get a cheap spray gun. It can also be brushed on as well. Its by far the best adhesive you can use and way better than anything in a spray can. Just make sure you use it properly.


Wow I knew you guys would help! Thanks dogger :thumbup:


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## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

Your welcome. Ask the upholstery shop for advice on using that glue. When done properly it works really well. :beer:


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## hendrikbmx (Oct 12, 2009)

so, last year my hatch didn't lock when I pressed the central locking button on the remote. I did this several times, when finally it did lock, since that it has not unlocked, no big deal, it was winter and the car wasn't driven. Well now I need the hatch to unlock, I had a spare key with car, but thats exactly the same as the ignition one. and both of these don't go in all the way on the hatch. basically I hear a sound in the hatch, like zzzzzzZZZMMM, but the button on the outside that I press moves really easy, like nothing engages inside. I do not have a parcel shelf in the car, basically I could get in the rear of the car. HELP!


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Yeah you can run it without the charger, just need a shorter belt. cant remember what size off the top of my head.
> 
> And you will an intake to use and a filter so you don't suck in random crap.


^ this, you can check my build thread around July of last year for pics and you *have to* time the cog wheels when you replace the belts...

The G-ladder bypass belt I have is Goodyear 6PK1505, another # on it 4060592


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

double post but....

What are these?????


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

corrado on the left, are those headlights purchasable? or were they smoked by the owner?


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## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Question: What would cause my coolant light to start flashing 5-10 minutes into my drive (coolant level is correct)? I did an OBD2 swap and this is one symptom i cant seem to figure out.


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## 84vdubRabbit (Nov 11, 2005)

I bought a VR out of a 97 Jetta GLX to swap into my Mk2 but I found a 90 Corrado shell that was rust free and IMO much more worthy of the VR swap.

My question is about the ECU. Should I buy an ECU for a Jetta GLX? or a Corrado VR6? Is there a difference between the 2 or will either of them be sufficient for my swap?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

iMD Autos said:


> double post but....
> 
> What are these?????


Besides Ugly?  looks like the wanna be Porsche emblem in the center. I cannot remember who makes those wheels but they kind of resemble a wheel Momo made back in the 90's. 



eurobred said:


> corrado on the left, are those headlights purchasable? or were they smoked by the owner?


Those are OEM E Codes that have been taken apart and smoked. 



Das.Rado said:


> Question: What would cause my coolant light to start flashing 5-10 minutes into my drive (coolant level is correct)? I did an OBD2 swap and this is one symptom i cant seem to figure out.


Bad coolant bottle or an air bubble that doesn't work its way out until you start driving causing the bottle to empty tripping the light. 



84vdubRabbit said:


> I bought a VR out of a 97 Jetta GLX to swap into my Mk2 but I found a 90 Corrado shell that was rust free and IMO much more worthy of the VR swap.
> 
> My question is about the ECU. Should I buy an ECU for a Jetta GLX? or a Corrado VR6? Is there a difference between the 2 or will either of them be sufficient for my swap?


Well.....First off, whatever harness you use will determine what ecu you need. OBD1 or OBD2 are HUGE differences. Never made a OBD2 Corrado from the factory.

Hybrid swap forum, and the FAQ up top actually have all your answers. 

Get the motor and trans from the Jetta, but find a 96-97 Passat VR6 for the best wiring to OBD2 in the Corrado shell. Or kill yerself trying to wire in the MK3 Golf/Jetta harness.

And NO you cannot use the current harness from a G60....just in case you were about to ask.


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## V-TEC this!!! (May 4, 2003)

RE: eurobred

Those lights are euro lights that have been smoked/painted by the owner. It is very easy to do since the lights can be taken apart in about 10 mins.


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## 84vdubRabbit (Nov 11, 2005)

Cool thanks man!

I may be new to motor swapping but I know I can't use the G60 harness for the VR :laugh:


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

V-TEC this!!! said:


> RE: eurobred
> 
> Those lights are euro lights that have been smoked/painted by the owner. It is very easy to do since the lights can be taken apart in about 10 mins.


i was curious because ive seen other lights smoked by owners and i thought you could only blacken the borders, in that pic it looks like either the lens is smoked or the reflector part is darkened

example


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Need torque specs for the G60 oil feed & return lines banjo bolts. Or does it not matter? 
Cannot seem to locate the info in my Bentley


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

DUBZAK said:


> Besides Ugly?  looks like the wanna be Porsche emblem in the center. I cannot remember who makes those wheels but they kind of resemble a wheel Momo made back in the 90's.


Yeah the guy advertised it as a porsche rim but I have never seen it and it drove me crazy not knowing what kind of rim it was. Ugly as sin. :laugh:


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

eurobred said:


> i was curious because ive seen other lights smoked by owners and i thought you could only blacken the borders, in that pic it looks like either the lens is smoked or the reflector part is darkened
> 
> example


Haha, you're right and those ^^ are mine :laugh:

Yeah the Corrado posted above seems to have smoked overlays on the lenses  Google EmpireGFX


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

laminx subtle tint, i have some for my ecodes, should look dope.


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## Choppa6 (Jan 9, 2009)

Brakes! I have real shady brakes! I have bled them numorous times, but I still have shady brakes.

Sometimes I have them, sometimes after pumping them a time or 2, I have them! Sometimes, none!!! Non ABS!

Pointers, and any help is great!!


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Choppa6 said:


> Brakes! I have real shady brakes! I have bled them numorous times, but I still have shady brakes.
> 
> Sometimes I have them, sometimes after pumping them a time or 2, I have them! Sometimes, none!!! Non ABS!
> 
> Pointers, and any help is great!!



Sounds to me like you have a bad master. When the car isn't braking can you pump the pedal and get some braking force?


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## Choppa6 (Jan 9, 2009)

yessir! Sometimes brakes werk, then sometime squishy with some brakes, the none! But after pumping a few times, I get em back!!


Bad master? I do have an extra now!! I will try that tomorrow!!

Thanks B!


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## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

Will 1992 slc rear calipers fit 1990 g60?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Choppa6 said:


> yessir! Sometimes brakes werk, then sometime squishy with some brakes, the none! But after pumping a few times, I get em back!!
> 
> 
> Bad master? I do have an extra now!! I will try that tomorrow!!
> ...


No problem



ItsNotaScirocco said:


> Will 1992 slc rear calipers fit 1990 g60?


Same caliper, you can also use mk2 disk rear calipers, mk3, passat, and mk4 with special lines.


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## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

DUBZAK, I was just wondering what makes you say coolant bottle, im not saying you're wrong or anything I just want to know how the bottle works and how it would cause a coolant level mis-reading 10 mins into the drive.

Cheers mate.


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

Das.Rado said:


> DUBZAK, I was just wondering what makes you say coolant bottle, im not saying you're wrong or anything I just want to know how the bottle works and how it would cause a coolant level mis-reading 10 mins into the drive.
> 
> Cheers mate.


coolant levels may be correct when the reservoir is topped off and the car is off.

but once the motor is on, and warms up a bit, things expand causing the reservoir to appear as if it were never filled since the coolant needs to fill those areas.

VR6 needs about 9 liters of coolant to be full.


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## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

So I came home and it had been raining a ton for a day and a half or so, decided I'd take the Corrado for a quick ride as I haven't been home in 2 weeks or so. Got in and the drivers side floor mat is SOAKING wet. It is absolutely drenched, to the point where it can't hold any more water. It is wet almost all the way up to the pedals, and back to the seat. I have leather seats, they weren't wet but they might have been dripped on, idk.

I've driven in the rain plenty before and this hasn't been an issue, I can't imagine it's the sunroof because the headliner wasn't wet I don't believe, and the location would be awkward for it to be the sunroof. Don't think it's the door, because that would be a stupid amount of water to drip in through a slightly leaking door... Windshield? I feel like it had to have come through somewhere behind the dash, because I've never noticed much of a leak before when driving in the rain. Also read about it possibly being related to A/C lines/vents, and my Corrados A/C hasn't worked since I bought it, so thought that could be a possibility.

Where do I begin?


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## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

eurobred said:


> coolant levels may be correct when the reservoir is topped off and the car is off.
> 
> but once the motor is on, and warms up a bit, things expand causing the reservoir to appear as if it were never filled since the coolant needs to fill those areas.
> 
> VR6 needs about 9 liters of coolant to be full.


But the bottle still shows coolant at the "MAX" line when the light begins flashing.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Das.Rado said:


> DUBZAK, I was just wondering what makes you say coolant bottle, im not saying you're wrong or anything I just want to know how the bottle works and how it would cause a coolant level mis-reading 10 mins into the drive.
> 
> Cheers mate.


The sensor inside the bottle has been known to fail, and mis-read your coolant levels. If the sensor has failed, swap the expansion tank and if the light still persists, you probably have a wiring issue since you have confirmed that after warm up the coolant level does not drop showing signs of a air pocket. :thumbup:


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

elijah- said:


> So I came home and it had been raining a ton for a day and a half or so, decided I'd take the Corrado for a quick ride as I haven't been home in 2 weeks or so. Got in and the drivers side floor mat is SOAKING wet. It is absolutely drenched, to the point where it can't hold any more water. It is wet almost all the way up to the pedals, and back to the seat. I have leather seats, they weren't wet but they might have been dripped on, idk.
> 
> I've driven in the rain plenty before and this hasn't been an issue, I can't imagine it's the sunroof because the headliner wasn't wet I don't believe, and the location would be awkward for it to be the sunroof. Don't think it's the door, because that would be a stupid amount of water to drip in through a slightly leaking door... Windshield? I feel like it had to have come through somewhere behind the dash, because I've never noticed much of a leak before when driving in the rain. Also read about it possibly being related to A/C lines/vents, and my Corrados A/C hasn't worked since I bought it, so thought that could be a possibility.
> 
> Where do I begin?


Clear out all of your sunroof drain lines (in the four corners of the roof assembly) and clean out your rain tray by the hood hinges. If all clear, you probably have a leaky windshield seal.


----------



## Choppa6 (Jan 9, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Sounds to me like you have a bad master. When the car isn't braking can you pump the pedal and get some braking force?


We frikkin Haww! Thanks B! Swapped out the Master, and all is well! It was fun! Brake fluid everywhere!!! I took precautions, but I think I still polluted the local Ground water! NOT!

Thanks again!!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

anyone have a pic of an installed crankshaft seal on the transmission side?


----------



## SinCityRado (Mar 7, 2011)

*starting problem*

92 slc, i will run around all day long in the corrado, runs great starts every time no issues. THEN, i turn the a/c on. drive for maybe 15 minutes turn the car off and then will try to start it and no go. all instrument lights are good, stereo good, lights good but no start. i will wait for about 15 minutes and then the car wwill start. i only have the starting issues after I have run the ac. i have turned the car off with the a/c on and also killed the a/c before turning the car off, it still wont startup again for 15 minutes. any ideas?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> anyone have a pic of an installed crankshaft seal on the transmission side?


Rear Main Seal??? What bottom end engine code?  I forgot in all that awesomeness that is your build. 



SinCityRado said:


> 92 slc, i will run around all day long in the corrado, runs great starts every time no issues. THEN, i turn the a/c on. drive for maybe 15 minutes turn the car off and then will try to start it and no go. all instrument lights are good, stereo good, lights good but no start. i will wait for about 15 minutes and then the car wwill start. i only have the starting issues after I have run the ac. i have turned the car off with the a/c on and also killed the a/c before turning the car off, it still wont startup again for 15 minutes. any ideas?


When it dies, see if you have power going to the ignition switch. If it still does have power going to the switch, you may have a circuit getting hot preventing the start in the fusebox. 

Is the car running rich?


----------



## SinCityRado (Mar 7, 2011)

DUBZAK said:


> Rear Main Seal??? What bottom end engine code?  I forgot in all that awesomeness that is your build.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Not running rich, I never lose power to anything and it only happens after I have run the a/c, I drove the car all the way frpm Las vegas to Nashville and back again and never had an issue because i didnt run the a/c.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

I would hate to say you need to pin out all of the fusebox :what: but that sounds like it. 

Have you OHM'd out the wiring to the AC compressor? And does the car crank after the A/C has been ran or nothing at all?


----------



## crisvr6 (Jun 14, 2007)

Sr. Karmann said:


> anyone have a pic of an installed crankshaft seal on the transmission side?


this ?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Rear Main Seal??? What bottom end engine code?  I forgot in all that awesomeness that is your build.


Nice one 

Nevermind, figured out the problem :facepalm:


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

I have read that if a C was a late 93 build with updated interior and such that it would be a coil pack car, and if it was and early 93 it would be dizzy and old style interoir. Is that true? Did they ever come from the factory with updated interior and disitributor vr?


----------



## Vr6OnLy (Mar 9, 2011)

**** important ****

OK SO LISTEN UP GUYS I NEED ALL vr6 CORRADO OWNERS TO HELP ME OUT HERE!!!
- So Currrently im really interested in buying a vr6 corrado but i wanted to ask people who have owned corrado vr6s for sometime now. What are the problems they have came across with there car whether its being many problems or a few. Let Me know your experiences and what you've had to do to your car. Please Include

. Current Mileage on your vr6 corrado
. All Problems You Can List
. How often something goes wrong if anything
. Best way to prevent any problems with these cars.

Thanks guys greatly appreciated.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Vr6OnLy said:


> OK SO LISTEN UP GUYS I NEED ALL vr6 CORRADO OWNERS TO HELP ME OUT HERE!!!
> - So Currrently im really interested in buying a vr6 corrado but i wanted to ask people who have owned corrado vr6s for sometime now. What are the problems they have came across with there car whether its being many problems or a few. Let Me know your experiences and what you've had to do to your car. Please Include
> 
> . Current Mileage on your vr6 corrado
> ...


Mr. VR^Only, please read the FAQ at the top of the forum, that is where everything you asked has been posted.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> I have read that if a C was a late 93 build with updated interior and such that it would be a coil pack car, and if it was and early 93 it would be dizzy and old style interoir. Is that true? Did they ever come from the factory with updated interior and disitributor vr?


 I have an Early 93 Production #4416 with Distributor, No SAI, No heated pkg, late interior.


----------



## valentin9 (Mar 14, 2011)

*Hood problems*

Hello everybody,

Please, I would like to ask your expert advice on a problem that I have with my Corrado G60:

How can I open the hood of the car without entering inside the car ?

Here is the situation: the battery is fully drained, therefore the central locking system
doesn't work, the driver door has the door handle broken, so the key opens the lock but i can't open the door (also, the passenger door doesn't open, nor the boot) :banghead:

The only solution i can think of is to open the hood and recharge the battery. 

Please note that my repairing skills are limited, i am a beginner.
My car is a 1990 Corrado G60, US model. 

Thank you in advance.


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> I have an Early 93 Production #4416 with Distributor, No SAI, No heated pkg, late interior.


Exactly what I have. I was wondering if my engine had been changed from coil pack to dizzy. I would like to have heated seats and headlight levelers though. Not sure what my production number is, where to check?


----------



## crisvr6 (Jun 14, 2007)

valentin9 said:


> Hello everybody,
> 
> Please, I would like to ask your expert advice on a problem that I have with my Corrado G60:
> 
> ...


that should help 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2458932


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Exactly what I have. I was wondering if my engine had been changed from coil pack to dizzy. I would like to have heated seats and headlight levelers though. Not sure what my production number is, where to check?


 last six of your vin. 

Headlight levelers weren't OEM on the US cars. But was on mine along with the ECODES when I found it. :thumbup:


----------



## SLyNKee (May 27, 2004)

*Center Caps*

I have a 93 slc and a few weeks ago I noticed one of the speed line center caps was gone on one of my tires, it didnt bother me much at the time because my corrado was in pretty poor condition, but this past week I got around to getting all the body work and paint re done so that missing center cap is an eye sore. 

So I was wondering if theres any place where I could find a center cap (theres a set of 4 on ebay probably gonna just get those even though i only need one) or if theres some other caps that will fit, like with with VW logos or something.


----------



## SinCityRado (Mar 7, 2011)

DUBZAK said:


> I would hate to say you need to pin out all of the fusebox :what: but that sounds like it.
> 
> Have you OHM'd out the wiring to the AC compressor? And does the car crank after the A/C has been ran or nothing at all?


 No crank at all after I have run the a/c. Maybe on 3 different occasions the car did start but the starter engaged after holding the key in the start position for about 3 seconds.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Start with Ignition switch. :thumbup: $20-25 for a good one.


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Headlight levelers weren't OEM on the US cars. But was on mine along with the ECODES when I found it. :thumbup:


 Yeah, I got lucky and stumbled onto the C I bought, it had relayed ecodes (even if they are g60 lights) and an lsd installed. I wouldn't buy a pre 93 vr C now, maybe only a G60 so I could have twice the headache!!!:screwy: 

Also had ABS deleted already!!!!!! 
Kinda sux tho since all I can do is fix things that break instead of upgrades, until it gets forced induction of some sort that is


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Also had ABS deleted already!!!!!!


 Mine still works and will be included in my swap. :screwy: :laugh:


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Mine still works and will be included in my swap. :screwy: :laugh:


 From what I understand, that is reason to be institutionalized


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Mine still works and will be included in my swap. :screwy: :laugh:


 TEVAS 20 system instead of crappy corrado ABS?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> TEVAS 20 system instead of crappy corrado ABS?


 SHUP Kyle.....


----------



## DaddyMassacre (Jul 29, 2010)

*Help*

yes i recently got ahold of a 1990 G60 Corrado 

ability to work on car form 1-10 ill say a 3, but willing to learn 

i just got my car guy had it sitting there for a long time i wanna know what i need for a tune up, where i can get a new supercharger within budget and headlights i need new ones car needs alot of work but i need to make it street legal first


----------



## eurosportgti (Jan 15, 2003)

Quick question.....How do i remove the fuel pump from this housing? The bentley says to turn it to the left but it only turns a little then stops. I dont want to break anything so any help would be appreciated 

Thanks


----------



## GreenEyedBandit (Sep 18, 2003)

*1990 Canadian G60 relays- what goes where?*

Just purchased a 1990 Canadian G60 that I'm really excited about. I've owned a mk4 Jetta before this and a 1980 Caddy but I finally have a Corrado and I'm happy to be in the family.  

Needs a few things worked out though- there are a few relays missing from the fuse box area and I'm trying to figure out what goes where from the handful of replacement relays I have in the glovebox. I've tried search with no luck and I have a Bentley manual but I have been unable to find a listing for the 1990 Canadian model. 

Does anyone have a diagram of what # relays go where?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

GreenEyedBandit said:


> Just purchased a 1990 Canadian G60 that I'm really excited about. I've owned a mk4 Jetta before this and a 1980 Caddy but I finally have a Corrado and I'm happy to be in the family.
> 
> Needs a few things worked out though- there are a few relays missing from the fuse box area and I'm trying to figure out what goes where from the handful of replacement relays I have in the glovebox. I've tried search with no luck and I have a Bentley manual but I have been unable to find a listing for the 1990 Canadian model.
> 
> Does anyone have a diagram of what # relays go where?


 Besides a few small differences, most of your wiring will be North American Spec. 

The fuse box diagram in the Bentley is accurate for your needs. :thumbup: 

Check out A2resource.com if you cannot find it in the Bentley Manual.


----------



## GreenEyedBandit (Sep 18, 2003)

DUBZAK said:


> Besides a few small differences, most of your wiring will be North American Spec.
> 
> The fuse box diagram in the Bentley is accurate for your needs. :thumbup:
> 
> Check out A2resource.com if you cannot find it in the Bentley Manual.


 

Thanks! Is there much difference for a 1990 vs a 91-92? I've noticed a lot of areas in the Bentley serarate the 1990, the 1991-1992, then the 1993-1994.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

GreenEyedBandit said:


> Thanks! Is there much difference for a 1990 vs a 91-92? I've noticed a lot of areas in the Bentley serarate the 1990, the 1991-1992, then the 1993-1994.


 Yes. 90's are a whole different animal.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

GreenEyedBandit said:


> Thanks! Is there much difference for a 1990 vs a 91-92? I've noticed a lot of areas in the Bentley serarate the 1990, the 1991-1992, then the 1993-1994.





DUBZAK said:


> Yes. 90's are a whole different animal.


 I wouldn't say whole different... There were some minor changes between 90 and 91-92 for G60's mostly wiring stuff and fuel pumps. 

Then 92 VR6 is obvious, and 93 got a new interior and different bumpers. late 93 got coilpack instead of dizzy motor...


----------



## valentin9 (Mar 14, 2011)

*Thank you for the advice*



crisvr6 said:


> that should help
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2458932


 Thank you for your help  Crisvr6 

Cheers 

The thread is very useful. 

Here is what happened this morning: I could lift the right side of the hood about 10cm (the right hood pin was loose) and I introduced some battery cables connected to my father's car; this way the central locking was activated and i entered inside the car, then opened the hood and took out the battery in order to have it recharged.


----------



## Choppa6 (Jan 9, 2009)

Just an odd question here! I want to get spacers for my ride! So with that being said, where is a good placeto get em and to also get extended lugs as well? 

Any advice as to lengths and what looks good?


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

I am ordering HIDs from DDM tuning and was planning on: 
35 watt 
h4 (not high/low) 
5000k 

http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DDM-HID-Kit-Slim-Ballast-35W-or-55W 

I read the HID threads but since I am clueless about this stuff my question is, would the experts recommend high/low and also should I get "dual in/dual out"? :beer:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

JamesS said:


> I am ordering HIDs from DDM tuning and was planning on:
> 35 watt
> h4 (not high/low)
> 5000k
> ...


 Why 35w for te headlights? 55w is such a nice upgrade over the 35w.

I wouldn't do the bi-xenons. You have high beams with the h3 bulb in the high beam section of the headlight.

Not sure what the dual in dual out is.

Either way relay em


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

good website with decent prices to buy euro ecode headlights and euro tails? preferably smoked/red (crystal) 

also, the primary difference between G60 headlights and VR6 headlights?


----------



## psykokid (Apr 2, 2002)

eurobred said:


> good website with decent prices to buy euro ecode headlights and euro tails? preferably smoked/red (crystal)
> 
> also, the primary difference between G60 headlights and VR6 headlights?


 dunno about the first one DJ, but the two main differences in the VR and G60 e-codes is that on the headlight lens itself the G60 lens has three E1 in a circle symbols on it. The VR ones only have one. The second difference in the G60 and the VR e-codes is the difference in the front bezel. The VR one sticks out a bit further than the G60 one. If you rock a VR grille with at set of G60 e-codes the headlights seem to sit back a bit further in relation to the grille. With a vr grille and the headlights everything fits flush..


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

psykokid said:


> dunno about the first one DJ, but the two main differences in the VR and G60 e-codes is that on the headlight lens itself the G60 lens has three E1 in a circle symbols on it. The VR ones only have one. The second difference in the G60 and the VR e-codes is the difference in the front bezel. The VR one sticks out a bit further than the G60 one. If you rock a VR grille with at set of G60 e-codes the headlights seem to sit back a bit further in relation to the grille. With a vr grille and the headlights everything fits flush..


 awesome thank you sir :thumbup:


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

is the Burgundy Pearl one of the rare colors? 
kinda like Montana Green is on a mk2?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

eurobred said:


> is the Burgundy Pearl one of the rare colors?
> kinda like Montana Green is on a mk2?


 Semi rare, sherry red is a rare color.


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

TheBurninator said:


> Semi rare, sherry red is a rare color.


 ohh ok gotcha, makes sense, since that color only came on the 94 and 95


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

eurobred said:


> ohh ok gotcha, makes sense, since that color only came on the 94 and 95


 And in extremely limited numbers... and thanks for reminding of my Montana green mk2... I miss that thing


----------



## SinCityRado (Mar 7, 2011)

DUBZAK said:


> Start with Ignition switch. :thumbup: $20-25 for a good one.


 i went to put in the new ignition switch and found the previous owners stereo wiring for the head unit. WTF!!!!!!!!!!!! I hate tracing this kinda crap out so I am taking it to the stereo shop to get it sorted out. Ignition swith didnt fix the problem but, I think rewiring the stereo may be the answer.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Ok folks, does anyone know where I can get a replacement pigtail for the ISV?? Thanks in advance 

~guru


----------



## V-TEC this!!! (May 4, 2003)

I dont think you can get the pigtail......I might be wrong though. 

I would check out the classifieds and maybe someone parting a corrado will be able to cut off the plug for you.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

iMD Autos said:


> Ok folks, does anyone know where I can get a replacement pigtail for the ISV?? Thanks in advance
> 
> ~guru





V-TEC this!!! said:


> I dont think you can get the pigtail......I might be wrong though.
> 
> I would check out the classifieds and maybe someone parting a corrado will be able to cut off the plug for you.


 
Dealership... kinda. You can order the plug and a couple of pre-crimped wires that slide right into the connector.


----------



## eurosportgti (Jan 15, 2003)

eurosportgti said:


> Quick question.....How do i remove the fuel pump from this housing? The bentley says to turn it to the left but it only turns a little then stops. I dont want to break anything so any help would be appreciated
> 
> Thanks


 Still looking for a little help with this


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

eurosportgti said:


> Still looking for a little help with this


 WTF are you trying to do here? See the 3 tabs on top? Those are needed to be pushed in for the pump to come apart.


----------



## eurosportgti (Jan 15, 2003)

DUBZAK said:


> WTF are you trying to do here? See the 3 tabs on top? Those are needed to be pushed in for the pump to come apart.


 i did that and still nothing


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

What purpose does the foam padding underneath the carpet serve, just sound deadening? What do people do as far as applying a dynamat-like material, remove the padding and just use the dynamat? Put dynamat down and put the foam back on top of it?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

elijah- said:


> What purpose does the foam padding underneath the carpet serve, just sound deadening? What do people do as far as applying a dynamat-like material, remove the padding and just use the dynamat? Put dynamat down and put the foam back on top of it?


 It serves as a sound deadening and to take up some of the space between the carpet and the floor. It also insulates the car. 

It is a different type of sound deadening than dynamat. It is not a mass loader for the panel. :thumbup:


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

Best solution for mangemebt on a boosted dizzy OBD1 vr6 corrado? 
Other than standalone which is the obvious easy way out. But also expensive. Ive been there done that with my previous mk2 vr6 gti on standalone (400hp car) was easy because it was a coilpack motor. 

I'm looking to make similar numbers. If not more with this rado I just picked up. I know there is a 30# chip tune for these motors but nothing more. Any solutions? Any of you guys have the same motor boosted? Or should I try asking in the forced induction technical forums?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

eurobred said:


> Best solution for mangemebt on a boosted dizzy OBD1 vr6 corrado?
> Other than standalone which is the obvious easy way out. But also expensive. Ive been there done that with my previous mk2 vr6 gti on standalone (400hp car) was easy because it was a coilpack motor.
> 
> I'm looking to make similar numbers. If not more with this rado I just picked up. I know there is a 30# chip tune for these motors but nothing more. Any solutions? Any of you guys have the same motor boosted? Or should I try asking in the forced induction technical forums?


 
Other than OBD2 conversion, C2 Did have a 42# Chip for Dizzy cars that required a custom MAF housing to run. The problem with OBD1 MAF Tunes is that the older style MAF will max out around 11-12 PSI on a reasonable sized turbo. 

Build a MS Set up, that is exactly what I plan on doing for my boosted distributor set up. :thumbup: Less aggravation than dealing with a half way done tune.


----------



## P1NNER (Nov 10, 2009)

Which fuse is for the windows? no power, no clicking, even no power to mirrors as well.

1992 VR6

Thanks,

Chris


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

P1NNER said:


> Which fuse is for the windows? no power, no clicking, even no power to mirrors as well.
> 
> 1992 VR6
> 
> ...


 Its the one above the relays, kinda difficult to see


----------



## victorg60 (Dec 8, 2010)

I'm new to the corrado world I own a 1990 g60 with 110k on her I want to wash the engine bay. Really well cause I have. A Bbm howitzer intake and samco hose kit ready to be installed should I just ceran wrap up anything that looks electronic grab a washcloth and gojo soap and start scrubbing? I don't want to cause any water damage 
I have my airbox out headlights grill ATM for access. Thank you I'm Allison needing new doorhandles any links to direct replacement or OrOEM? Would like to stray from modifacation :beer::beer:


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Are there any electric water pump options for a g60? 
If I recall, there are for other VWs. Anyone know much about which ones are good? (if they exist) and what modifications need to be done to the serpentine belt since its not longer driving the pump.


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

What size bolts do I need to attach an engine stand to the rear motor mount holes on a VR6? Can I just use the bolts from the rear mount bracket?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

iAco said:


> What size bolts do I need to attach an engine stand to the rear motor mount holes on a VR6? Can I just use the bolts from the rear mount bracket?


 I would just measure the length of what you need based on "your" stand requirements and go down to the local hardware store and grab some nuts bolts and washers :thumbup:


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

iAco said:


> What size bolts do I need to attach an engine stand to the rear motor mount holes on a VR6? Can I just use the bolts from the rear mount bracket?


 head bolts.


----------



## ALLROAD VR (Jan 23, 2006)

*Looking for a part number...*

Anyone got ETKA running? I'm looking for the part number of the defroster switch, newer/later style interior... 

:beer:


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

ALLROAD VR said:


> Anyone got ETKA running? I'm looking for the part number of the defroster switch, newer/later style interior...
> 
> :beer:


 535 959 621 and 535 969 621 A 

Cheers broseph


----------



## ALLROAD VR (Jan 23, 2006)

Thanks, the one with the 'A' is the newer style?


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

yes


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

is there a way to remove the front bumper cover without removing the rebar? 

first time owning a corrado. 
ive only owned Mk2 GTis since ive been driving. been in and out of 5 mk2s. 
wondering if its different on the corrado. 
on the mk2 you can remove the bumper cover without removing the rebar... 

swapping euro ecode bezels/lenses can be done to N/A lights? or does a full set of ecodes have to be purchased? 

how do i properly keep my wing and sunroof lubricated? 

how are the fogs/turn signals removed? (on a mk2, im used to the turn signals being secured in with screws and the fogs being bolted on under the rebar)


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Is therew a better heater core? Any universal aftermarket cores that accept AN fittings?


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

is there a way to remove the front bumper cover without removing the rebar? 
*No, even if you could get to all the clips, it's waaay easier to pull the rebar first. all you have to do it pull the fogs/turns, remove the screws along the bottom that secure the lip to the lower rad support, then remove four bolts. It literally takes ten minutes* 

swapping euro ecode bezels/lenses can be done to N/A lights? or does a full set of ecodes have to be purchased? 
*No again, the US spec lights dont have removeable lenses like the E-codes do, and the re flectors, and housings are different as well. You need the whole unit* 

how do I properly keep my wing and sunroof lubricated? 

*For the sunroof, if if it were mine, I would pull it out, and clean the 20 years of gunk out of the tracks, that will do more good than adding grease. if the Bentley doesn't recommend anything specific I'd use white lithium grease. 
For the spoiler, I always raise it up, put some dry graphite aound the base of the supports, then raise, and lower it few times. * 

how are the fogs/turn signals removed? (on a mk2, im used to the turn signals being secured in with screws and the fogs being bolted on under the rebar) 
*The turns just pop out. push them toward the foglight,(I think) and they will pivot out. this exposes the screws to remove the housings with the fogs in them. *


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

If I upgrade the rod bolts in my VR6 do I need to worry about resizing the rods? If I stick with OEM stretch bolts do I need to be concerned with resizing? 


Also if I decided to upgrade the main bolts with ARP do I need to replace the main bearings on the VR6?


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

did all corrados come with a cel?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> did all corrados come with a cel?


 Negatory


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

So what do you guys use to keep the rub strip on your doors black, instead of sunbleached gray? I've tried a few things, but they just turn gray in no time


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> So what do you guys use to keep the rub strip on your doors black, instead of sunbleached gray? I've tried a few things, but they just turn gray in no time


 There is no permenant way to restore the faded strips. All you can do is freshen up the surface as often as you want.


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

Spray paint...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> So what do you guys use to keep the rub strip on your doors black, instead of sunbleached gray? I've tried a few things, but they just turn gray in no time


 Use SEM bumper paint. :thumbup:


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

TheBurninator said:


> Use SEM bumper paint. :thumbup:


 SEM :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: Great products


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

im getting this crazy vibration while driving at speeds above 40mph... 

motor mounts = new 
trans mount = new 
axles = new 

still vibrates like crazy... and it feels like when i hit a dip on the freeway, at the point of low gravity right before the bottom of the dip, the vibration goes away, until the full weight of the car is back on the ground, then it starts again. 
its pretty violent... 

vibrates the whole car... only does it above 40mph though. doesnt vibrate at slower speeds... 

any ideas??


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

eurobred said:


> im getting this crazy vibration while driving at speeds above 40mph...
> 
> motor mounts = new
> trans mount = new
> ...


 Ball joints? wheel bearings? control arm bushings? tie rods? alignment? tire pressure? odd tire wear? tire balance?


----------



## ein (Feb 3, 2007)

TheBurninator said:


> Ball joints? wheel bearings? control arm bushings? tie rods? alignment? tire pressure? *odd tire wear?** tire balance?*


 Those two will be the most violent with the description you gave. Jack the car up and look for a broken tire bead/belt.


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

TheBurninator said:


> Ball joints? wheel bearings? control arm bushings? tie rods? alignment? tire pressure? odd tire wear? tire balance?


 ball joints are in good condition, tire pressure if fine, brand new tires, i tried it with other wheels and the same thing... 
control arm bushings are in good shape, (poly) driver side wheel bearing has been replaced. but not passenger side, i dont think its bad. 

im just trying to figure out why the WHOLE car vibrates like crazy....


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

eurobred said:


> ball joints are in good condition, tire pressure if fine, brand new tires, i tried it with other wheels and the same thing...
> control arm bushings are in good shape, (poly) driver side wheel bearing has been replaced. but not passenger side, i dont think its bad.
> 
> im just trying to figure out why the WHOLE car vibrates like crazy....


 Alignment? Have you checked that? Might want to check the wheel bearing too. All of my above responses can cause what you are talking about. And since it only happens above certain speeds leads me to believe it is something in that list.


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

TheBurninator said:


> Alignment? Have you checked that? Might want to check the wheel bearing too. All of my above responses can cause what you are talking about. And since it only happens above certain speeds leads me to believe it is something in that list.


 alright ill do that as soon as i get a chance. 
will keep you posted


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

Anyone had to replace the foam underneath the carpet? What did you use to replace it? Mine is pretty old and ratty after 20 years, and I'm putting in some sound deadening material anyways but it's fairly thin compared to the foam. I think I've heard of people using ABS plastic sheets, but that's highly flammable and I don't know if that's a very good idea to stick on metal that gets pretty toasty


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

elijah- said:


> Anyone had to replace the foam underneath the carpet? What did you use to replace it? Mine is pretty old and ratty after 20 years, and I'm putting in some sound deadening material anyways but it's fairly thin compared to the foam. I think I've heard of people using ABS plastic sheets, but that's highly flammable and I don't know if that's a very good idea to stick on metal that gets pretty toasty


 ^^Dynamat??? 

:thumbup:


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## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

Well, I have the sound deadening material I'm using (going to economy home depot way) but it's not very thick. Just worried it won't be thick enough on its own


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## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

Its not foam they use from the factory but jute. The jute absorbs sound and the asphalt backing works as a sound barrier by blocking road noise. Most new cars use foam with rubber backing. 

I would suggest Dynamat Dynaliner or one of their other foam sound barriers but since you went the cheesy Home Depot cheap route already your probably not going to spend the money on Dynamat. 

You can get similar jute material from automotive upholstery supply for cheap or find it online as well.

http://www.sailrite.com/Thermozite-Thermal-Acoustic-Insulation-36-x-48_2


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

cyberstasi said:


> Are there any electric water pump options for a g60?
> If I recall, there are for other VWs. Anyone know much about which ones are good? (if they exist) and what modifications need to be done to the serpentine belt since its not longer driving the pump.


 I got missed in the flury of other posts... anyone know? 
Lastly, other than spending an hour at the dealership is there anyway to find out what Corrado parts are almost gone from the warehouse? I went the other day to get the fuse box clips and they only had 4 left. So I went and bought all of them. I'd like a way to know what other parts for the Corrado are almost gone so I can get them now while they are still avail. I've been talking to a Plastics Manufacturing place in my area about costs in making small parts. And I'd like to be able to send a new factory part for them to use. But It'd only be needed for small things that are available now but wont be very soon. And I'm trying to find out how to figure out what parts those are.


----------



## GreenEyedBandit (Sep 18, 2003)

1990 G60 I've owned about 2 weeks: 

headlights are REALLY dim and brights only come on if I hold the stalk the whole time (won't click and stay on) 

as well... wipers ONLY work when headlights are on. :banghead: 

Any ideas how to correct this? 

oh, it's from Ontario Canada so it has eurolights if that changes things-


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^Dynamat???
> 
> :thumbup:





dogger said:


> Its not foam they use from the factory but jute. The jute absorbs sound and the asphalt backing works as a sound barrier by blocking road noise. Most new cars use foam with rubber backing.
> 
> I would suggest Dynamat Dynaliner or one of their other foam sound barriers but since you went the cheesy Home Depot cheap route already your probably not going to spend the money on Dynamat.
> 
> ...


 
Dynamat: that sh!t is really expensive tho  

I'm trying to find a cheaper solution for the MK1 project, since I have the interior all gutted...Adam did send me a link for a procuct identical to Dynamat (but different brand) which is remarkably cheaper but unfortunately they won't ship to me for reasonable $$$. Damn, I hate living on an island in the middle of nowhere :banghead: Maybe James can check for cheaper shipping quote? END RAND....:laugh:


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## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

dogger said:


> Its not foam they use from the factory but jute. The jute absorbs sound and the asphalt backing works as a sound barrier by blocking road noise. Most new cars use foam with rubber backing.
> 
> I would suggest Dynamat Dynaliner or one of their other foam sound barriers but since you went the cheesy Home Depot cheap route already your probably not going to spend the money on Dynamat.
> 
> ...


 I'll check that out... I went the HD route because it's the same exact stuff for a fraction of the price. dynamat can keep their fancy logo. Not about to spend $200+ on sound deadening on a college student budget


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## Halojunkie222 (Oct 27, 2009)

*Hood Release*

I have a 1992 Corrado SLC, and the hood release cable snapped so i have to get engine access from the front grill. Is there any other car (like a vr6 passat or GTI) that is a little more common, who's hood release assembly will work? I've priced out the setup and the whole assembly will run a bit over 140$ if i have to buy replacement pieces individually. Thanks for the help guys :beer:


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## V-TEC this!!! (May 4, 2003)

GreenEyedBandit said:


> 1990 G60 I've owned about 2 weeks:
> 
> headlights are REALLY dim and brights only come on if I hold the stalk the whole time (won't click and stay on)
> 
> ...


 Just because it's from Ontario Canada has nothing to do with it having euro lights. All NA corrado's came with the same sh!tty a55 lights. Unless someone replaced them with eurolights. 

As to your problems, to me it sounds like issues with ground wires somewhere. I would look into the wiring for your headlights. Check to see if anyone has been messing around with it at all.


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## V-TEC this!!! (May 4, 2003)

Halojunkie222 said:


> I have a 1992 Corrado SLC, and the hood release cable snapped so i have to get engine access from the front grill. Is there any other car (like a vr6 passat or GTI) that is a little more common, who's hood release assembly will work? I've priced out the setup and the whole assembly will run a bit over 140$ if i have to buy replacement pieces individually. Thanks for the help guys :beer:


 Why are you replacing the whole mechanism???? you can just get the cable. Better yet you can get a brake cable from a bicycle shop for a tandem bike and use that. There used to be a DIY on here for that.


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## Halojunkie222 (Oct 27, 2009)

V-TEC this!!! said:


> Why are you replacing the whole mechanism???? you can just get the cable. Better yet you can get a brake cable from a bicycle shop for a tandem bike and use that. There used to be a DIY on here for that.


 Holy crap you just saved me like 120$ lol the brake cable for the bike will work, how long do you think it needs to be? i think 10ft is like 9 bucks, and 20 is like 17 bucks, probly get the longer one...better safe than sorry right?


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## V-TEC this!!! (May 4, 2003)

The 10' should be long enough but measure just to make sure. :beer:


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## Halojunkie222 (Oct 27, 2009)

Do you know what material the gauge cluster is made of? Cuz i know you can get one from DDI and everything but i think a high quality print would basically get you the same result...as long as it isnt some crazy fabric


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

V-TEC this!!! said:


> Just because it's from Ontario Canada has nothing to do with it having euro lights. All NA corrado's came with the same sh!tty a55 lights. Unless someone replaced them with eurolights.
> 
> As to your problems, to me it sounds like issues with ground wires somewhere. I would look into the wiring for your headlights. Check to see if anyone has been messing around with it at all.


 I've seen this car. Car has E-codes and a relay'd harness. With the wiper issues I'd think it's the stalks going bad. 



V-TEC this!!! said:


> Why are you replacing the whole mechanism???? you can just get the cable. Better yet you can get a brake cable from a bicycle shop for a tandem bike and use that. There used to be a DIY on here for that.


 Anyone have a link for that fix? I have the same problem with my rado.


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## Halojunkie222 (Oct 27, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> Anyone have a link for that fix? I have the same problem with my rado.


 Well i found a write up for using a bike line, but not for a rado, im kinda just gonna wing it....im doing it this sunday tho, so if you want me too i'll let you know how it goes doing it with the other write up, PM me if you want the link to the datsun hood release fix using a bike cable.


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

*Buzzing sound*

Coming from engine compartment when running and when car is turned off. I know its not the radiator fan, it evetually turns off. Any suggestions? 1993 VR6 W/92k miles and no engine mods. 

I appreciate any help I can get. :beer::beer:


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

Camshaft Question: 

I just took out the cams in my head and found out they are legit Schrick 268's (booya!) 

However, there seems to be some grooves on the round portion where the bearing caps bolt to. Is this something to be concerned with? Can I get a machine shop to polish this out? The cams have unknown number of miles on them.


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> Coming from engine compartment when running and when car is turned off. I know its not the radiator fan, it evetually turns off. Any suggestions? 1993 VR6 W/92k miles and no engine mods.
> 
> I appreciate any help I can get. :beer::beer:


 Secondary water pump? That's probably what your buzzing is.:thumbup:


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Anyone know the weight of the BBM lightened flywheel for the g60? 

Does anyone know why there is a steel plate with four bolts behind the timing belt that has a large opening to the block behind it? 

Thanks guys!


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

iMD Autos said:


> *Anyone know the weight of the BBM lightened flywheel for the g60?*
> 
> Does anyone know why there is a steel plate with four bolts behind the timing belt that has a large opening to the block behind it?
> 
> Thanks guys!


 http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/141/G60_4Cyl_Lightened_Flywheel


----------



## diesel.g60 (Oct 17, 2010)

hello i have a serious problem. after a much needed maintenance my g60 ran strong. but when i got home and accelarated it, it turned off and wont start again :banghead:. we determined there is no spark. so we checked the wiring and no power is reaching the coil so any suggestions are much needed thanks in advance.


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## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

1956dub said:


> Secondary water pump? That's probably what your buzzing is.:thumbup:


 Is this something that should be replaced, or is it normal if it is indeed the secondary water pump?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

iAco said:


> Camshaft Question:
> 
> I just took out the cams in my head and found out they are legit Schrick 268's (booya!)
> 
> However, there seems to be some grooves on the round portion where the bearing caps bolt to. Is this something to be concerned with? Can I get a machine shop to polish this out? The cams have unknown number of miles on them.


 Pics of the scoring, and if it is bad, new cams needed.  



diesel.g60 said:


> hello i have a serious problem. after a much needed maintenance my g60 ran strong. but when i got home and accelarated it, it turned off and wont start again :banghead:. we determined there is no spark. so we checked the wiring and no power is reaching the coil so any suggestions are much needed thanks in advance.


 Start with the troubleshooting outlined in the bentley. If no bentley, you need one. Yesterday. 
Also, many previous threads on this in this forum and the g60 forum. Start reading and searching, and good luck. 



CorradoLook'N21 said:


> Is this something that should be replaced, or is it normal if it is indeed the secondary water pump?


 If you only hear buzzing that means the after run is cycling the water pump, but you only hear it because your fans aren't working properly. You should also hear your fans run the same amount of time as the aux pump does, if not you have some electrical issues that need to be diagnosed with your cooling system fans, FCM, thermo switch and sensors on the thermostat housing. 

Good luck to you as well.


----------



## Z WildMan (Nov 3, 2010)

*Compression*

I'm going to look at a 93 slc today with about 140k on it. 

the guy says it has a misfire but the car has good compression. 

I told him to bring the compression tester with to prove it. What am i looking for for good compression? I've searched all over for specs but only seem to find ratios... I need a PSI number to be looking for... 

thanks


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Z WildMan said:


> I'm going to look at a 93 slc today with about 140k on it.
> 
> the guy says it has a misfire but the car has good compression.
> 
> ...


 Well, I simply typed in google "VR6 Compression" and the very first result was a thread showing it on a MK4...pretty similar. Please use the search function and google next time. 

Here is what you are looking for on a healthy motor: 
- new ------------------------------------------------------ 10 to 13 bar (147-191 psi) 
- wear limit ------------------------------------------------ 7.5 bar (110 psi) 
- maximum difference between cylinders ------------------ 3 bar (44 psi)


----------



## Halojunkie222 (Oct 27, 2009)

*Timing chain Q*

So i need to get the timing chain done on my 92 slc, im at 165k miles. i dont have the space to do it myself, and the 2 shops i've called (one being a vw specialist and one being a regular mechanic) both quoted me around 1150-1350, one said around 15 hours of labor and also said i'd need to replace the sprockets and not just the chain and guides. Is this accurate? The sprockets according to the vw tech was like 700 bucks. :banghead: So, do i need to have him replace the sprockets as well or am i fine with just the timing chain kit (guides, rail, tensioner, and chain) 


Quote from vw mechanic 
"It's normally $1600 to do chains and guides, clutch and flywheel, and thermostat housing, coolant pipe, thermostat, etc. " 

"The thermostat housing and crackpipe and stuff will not reseal. So its the thermostat and housing and the crackpipe. It's 10 hours labor which is $700 then the chains and guides and stuff are around 300 + also the valvecover gasket and miscellaneous sealants like the $90 per tube sealant. It ends up being 1600 about with tax for everythign." 

Does all this stuff really need to be replaced with this job?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Halojunkie222 said:


> So i need to get the timing chain done on my 92 slc, im at 165k miles. i dont have the space to do it myself, and the 2 shops i've called (one being a vw specialist and one being a regular mechanic) both quoted me around 1150-1350, one said around 15 hours of labor and also said i'd need to replace the sprockets and not just the chain and guides. Is this accurate? The sprockets according to the vw tech was like 700 bucks. :banghead: So, do i need to have him replace the sprockets as well or am i fine with just the timing chain kit (guides, rail, tensioner, and chain)
> 
> 
> Quote from vw mechanic
> ...


 Yes all that is needed for the job. 

I have sold this job at my shop many times, it is very accurate at 1600 for all those parts.


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## Halojunkie222 (Oct 27, 2009)

Alright, since i cant very well drop 1600 bucks right now, how long CAN it be driven before i'm endangering my engine... :banghead: 

i know it SHOULDNT be driven but its my daily and unfortunately only means of transport.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> Yes all that is needed for the job.
> 
> I have sold this job at my shop many times, it is very accurate at 1600 for all those parts.


 ^^Ouch


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Halojunkie222 said:


> Alright, since i cant very well drop 1600 bucks right now, how long CAN it be driven before i'm endangering my engine... :banghead:
> 
> i know it SHOULDNT be driven but its my daily and unfortunately only means of transport.


 There is no way of saying. You could go out today, and break the guide and jump timing. Then the 1600 just turned into a HG and valve job. Add another 1000 if you break it.  

Bottom line, get another car. A cheap one. Dare I say it....even a 85 honda. Something to keep you mobile while working on the Corrado.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Oh, and cam sprockets aren't needed unless damaged.


----------



## Halojunkie222 (Oct 27, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^Ouch


 yea, your right. ouch.


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Pics of the scoring, and if it is bad, new cams needed.
> 
> 
> Start with the troubleshooting outlined in the bentley. If no bentley, you need one. Yesterday.
> ...


 
That makes sense. Do you think it is hurting anything by driving daily?:banghead::banghead:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

depends, how are the Temps and do your fans work normally? With A/C (if you have it)? 

If you have a good used FCM, try that. then the sensor on the Therm housing for the after run (yellow plug, has a different colored sensor update though).


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

DUBZAK said:


> Pics of the scoring, and if it is bad, new cams needed.


 I'll get pictures up tomorrow morning. I hope it isn't bad, but I have a feeling it will be. Some are deeper than others. I can feel it with my finger nail.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

sending you a PM.


----------



## monkeyjiz (Jan 18, 2011)

Hi guys. Do any of you have experience with the BBM lysholm kits? Iv been having trouble with my G60's idle ever since i took off the charger intake baffel plate to get it welded. Idle bounses all over when cold.


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

DUBZAK said:


> Yes all that is needed for the job.
> 
> I have sold this job at my shop many times, it is very accurate at 1600 for all those parts.


 i must be lucky to have a mechanic i know very well  i just got my timing chains and guides replaced for less than $500 in labor


----------



## ein (Feb 3, 2007)

iAco said:


> Camshaft Question:
> 
> I just took out the cams in my head and found out they are legit Schrick 268's (booya!)
> 
> However, there seems to be some grooves on the round portion where the bearing caps bolt to. Is this something to be concerned with? Can I get a machine shop to polish this out? The cams have unknown number of miles on them.


 Pics of head too... VR's aren't known for chewing up cams especially Schrick's...


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> depends, how are the Temps and do your fans work normally? With A/C (if you have it)?
> 
> If you have a good used FCM, try that. then the sensor on the Therm housing for the after run (yellow plug, has a different colored sensor update though).


 Temps are fine. The fans I noticed arent coming on, didnt really notice it much since it has been cold out. I know this is a dumb question but whats an FCM?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Fan Control Module.


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## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

ein said:


> Pics of head too... VR's aren't known for chewing up cams especially Schrick's...


 I hope they aren't too bad. I'd hate to shell out more money for new cams, especially 268's. 
Here are the pictures of each camshaft along with the top of the cylinder head where the camshaft gets bolted down too. 














































































































A lot of pictures I know, but I like to be thorough. 
The lobes themselves don't have chips or damaged to them.


----------



## chodie (Jan 15, 2010)

*friction tape*

Hey experts, 

Can someone link me to the proper friction tape used to wrap an electrical harness? I know it's the 3m friction tape, but it seems that there are variations on it and I don't want to buy the wrong stuff. 


Thanks!


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

iAco said:


> I hope they aren't too bad. I'd hate to shell out more money for new cams, especially 268's.
> Here are the pictures of each camshaft along with the top of the cylinder head where the camshaft gets bolted down too.
> 
> 
> ...


 Looks like a lack of oil pressure or lack of assembly lube when put in. I would take to a machine shop and have them cleaned up. 
Should be ok though.


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Fan Control Module.


 Oh i c. Unfortunately I dont have an extra...Do you know how much one costs either new or used?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> Oh i c. Unfortunately I dont have an extra...Do you know how much one costs either new or used?


 I know you are still kinda new, but you need to search VW parts on your own time. I have given you more than enough information to start your task, and really do hope you resolve it before tempratures get warmer by you. A hot Corrado will cause many things to start breaking or worse. I like havng this thread to help people who want to help themselves, not ask for everything on a silver platter ala Spoon feeding. 

I am not familiar the suppliers in your area, nor am I sure which FCM you currently have. Go out to your car, pop the hood, copy the part number off of it and hit google. If you find one online that will ship, there you go. 

:beer::beer: And good luck.


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> I know you are still kinda new, but you need to search VW parts on your own time. I have given you more than enough information to start your task, and really do hope you resolve it before tempratures get warmer by you. A hot Corrado will cause many things to start breaking or worse. I like havng this thread to help people who want to help themselves, not ask for everything on a silver platter ala Spoon feeding.
> 
> I am not familiar the suppliers in your area, nor am I sure which FCM you currently have. Go out to your car, pop the hood, copy the part number off of it and hit google. If you find one online that will ship, there you go.
> 
> :beer::beer: And good luck.


 I can see how you may think that, but was just trying to get an idea of price, not have you find me one. I appreciate your help.:beer:


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

over $100.00 is the best answer I can gve you. 
You are welcome for the help. Thank you for thanking me. :thumbup:


----------



## 2925 (Dec 11, 2007)

Running silly rich, already have my list of things to check but wanted to see what the "experts" thought of this. 

PO installed an aftermarket radiator. Everything works normal and when the car is sitting the coolant temps will hit 190 and the fan will kick on. So I know the fan switch works. The problem is while I'm driving the coolant temps stay really low, around 190, the oil temps reach normals temps though. I'm thinking the thermostat is stuck open? Could this also be contributing to my rich running conditions as the coolant temp is used to bring the car out of cold running conditions?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

2925 said:


> Running silly rich, already have my list of things to check but wanted to see what the "experts" thought of this.
> 
> PO installed an aftermarket radiator. Everything works normal and when the car is sitting the coolant temps will hit 190 and the fan will kick on. So I know the fan switch works. The problem is while I'm driving the coolant temps stay really low, around 190, the oil temps reach normals temps though. I'm thinking the thermostat is stuck open? Could this also be contributing to my rich running conditions as the coolant temp is used to bring the car out of cold running conditions?


 new coolant temp sensors, they are cheap and should be replaced if you know they have not been replaced already. Dunno about the VR, but the G60 should come out of limp mode (warmup enrichment) at 160 IIRC, I chased a similar issue on my G60 for some time. Fan coming on at 190 seems a little high, but I had a low temp switch in... 

There are several items to look at if you are running pig rich, o2, cts, knock sensor as well as some others


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> over $100.00 is the best answer I can gve you.
> You are welcome for the help. Thank you for thanking me. :thumbup:


 No problem. Just trying to broaden my knowledge, I have never been a huge car guy, but getting the corrado has me interested in learning more.


----------



## 2925 (Dec 11, 2007)

Sr. Karmann said:


> new coolant temp sensors, they are cheap and should be replaced if you know they have not been replaced already. Dunno about the VR, but the G60 should come out of limp mode (warmup enrichment) at 160 IIRC, I chased a similar issue on my G60 for some time. Fan coming on at 190 seems a little high, but I had a low temp switch in...
> 
> There are several items to look at if you are running pig rich, o2, cts, knock sensor as well as some others


 They looked good when I pulled them replacing a blown coolant flange but as cheap as they are might as well replace them anyway. I'm almost positive the timing is the culprit for running rich but like i said I wanted to make sure that isn't an issue aswell. Will probably check the thermostat eventually anyway; smog says the cat may be bad too but I'm going to tackle each issue at a time.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

2925 said:


> They looked good when I pulled them replacing a blown coolant flange but as cheap as they are might as well replace them anyway. I'm almost positive the timing is the culprit for running rich but like i said I wanted to make sure that isn't an issue aswell. Will probably check the thermostat eventually anyway; smog says the cat may be bad too but I'm going to tackle each issue at a time.


 the resistance values should be in the Bentley, wouldn't hurt to toss a multimeter on it. 

This is another reason I went standalone


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

Hey I need some help my car turns off usually after its, been running for a little, not sure if its fuel or some sensor cause it doesnt turn on right away it just turns over but not start I have to wait a couple minutes them it finally turns on. 

Thanks


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> This is another reason I went standalone


 :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

DUBZAK said:


> Looks like a lack of oil pressure or lack of assembly lube when put in. I would take to a machine shop and have them cleaned up.
> Should be ok though.


 
I can't vouch on their lack of assembly lube, but when the car was together and running my oil pressure at idle as indicated by the lower dash gauge always read ~1 bar. Not sure if thats ideal or not. I ran proper weight oil so I don't think that would be a problem.


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

iAco said:


> I can't vouch on their lack of assembly lube, but when the car was together and running my oil pressure at idle as indicated by the lower dash gauge always read ~1 bar. Not sure if thats ideal or not. I ran proper weight oil so I don't think that would be a problem.


 At idle and operating temp, i believe my oil pressure is usually about 2 bar.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

tonyg60 said:


> Hey I need some help my car turns off usually after its, been running for a little, not sure if its fuel or some sensor cause it doesnt turn on right away it just turns over but not start I have to wait a couple minutes them it finally turns on.
> 
> Thanks


 please follow thread rule, year & model, make even .........:laugh:


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

What do you guys do to replace the ****ty e-brake cover? I'd like to get a leather boot from redlinegoods (bought a shift boot from them) but I don't know exactly how I'd make it fit and look nice.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

elijah- said:


> What do you guys do to replace the ****ty e-brake cover? I'd like to get a leather boot from redlinegoods (bought a shift boot from them) but I don't know exactly how I'd make it fit and look nice.


 OEM


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> OEM


 The same plastic crap, or what?


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> please follow thread rule, year & model, make even .........:laugh:


 1990 corrado g60


----------



## ALLROAD VR (Jan 23, 2006)

Correct me if I'm wrong, did some US Corrado VR6's came with 2.9L motors??


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

nope, euro only


----------



## 2925 (Dec 11, 2007)

Sr. Karmann said:


> the resistance values should be in the Bentley, wouldn't hurt to toss a multimeter on it.
> 
> This is another reason I went standalone


 Yeah, time to pick one up  

if standalone were an option right now I'd be all over it, have seen MS v2's on the classifieds for way cheap recently.


----------



## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

I want to do an engine swap to my 1.8 sc corrado engine. What other car's engine can I look at for a vr6 that would match up completely to my engine bay??? please and and thank you


----------



## V-TEC this!!! (May 4, 2003)

in order to fit a vr6 you will have to convert your entire car almost to work with a vr6. You need a engine harness, guages, front cross member, radiator, transmission, etc, etc. 

The swap has been covered a million and one times. Not to be a prick but there should be tons of info in the search. 

To get you started you can use a vr6 from, golf, passat, jetta.


----------



## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

V-TEC this!!! said:


> in order to fit a vr6 you will have to convert your entire car almost to work with a vr6. You need a engine harness, guages, front cross member, radiator, transmission, etc, etc.
> 
> The swap has been covered a million and one times. Not to be a prick but there should be tons of info in the search.
> 
> To get you started you can use a vr6 from, golf, passat, jetta.


thanks and that was not rude i just was being lazy thanks


----------



## ein (Feb 3, 2007)

iAco said:


> I can't vouch on their lack of assembly lube, but when the car was together and running my oil pressure at idle as indicated by the lower dash gauge always read ~1 bar. Not sure if thats ideal or not. I ran proper weight oil so I don't think that would be a problem.


If replacing the oil pump was not on your list it should be now. VR's are known to have issues with them every now and again.

You might want Shawn's input on what to do with the head and cams since he's the resident machinist/engineer dude.


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

ein said:


> If replacing the oil pump was not on your list it should be now. VR's are known to have issues with them every now and again.
> 
> You might want Shawn's input on what to do with the head and cams since he's the resident machinist/engineer dude.


I'll look into getting another oil pump. I dropped the head and cams off at the machine shop. They said it could be a lack of oil pressure or contaminants in the oil but they said they could polish out the journals so I can keep on running them. They are also going to do a complete valve job so the head should be fresh when I get it back.


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

Should you be able to blow through a g60 isv when it's off the car. I'm guessing no and you adjust the little allan screw but I want to make sure. Thanks


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

nu2dubbing said:


> Should you be able to blow through a g60 isv when it's off the car. I'm guessing no and you adjust the little allan screw but I want to make sure. Thanks


No you shouldn't be able to blow through it. Adjust it until it resists your, uh... blowing. :sly:


----------



## V-TEC this!!! (May 4, 2003)

Yes you should not be able to blow through it.....

IIRC there was someone on here that made a simple device (almost like a boost controller) in order to stop airflow through the ISV under driving conditions. I could be talking out of my a55 at the same time....memory isnt what it used to be 10 yrs ago. 

a one way check valve....home depot motorsports.


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

Thanks guys.


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

Thanks for all the help. the "experts" were vey helpfull:thumbdown::facepalm:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

tonyg60 said:


> Thanks for all the help. the "experts" were vey helpfull:thumbdown::facepalm:


Calm your self down......If we missed it, repost it, and we will get to you. 




tonyg60 said:


> Hey I need some help my car turns off usually after its, been running for a little, not sure if its fuel or some sensor cause it doesnt turn on right away it just turns over but not start I have to wait a couple minutes them it finally turns on.
> 
> Thanks





tonyg60 said:


> 1990 corrado g60


First off, you need a Bentley. This is basic troubleshooting and outlined in the book. Eliminate all Vacuum leaks and air leaks on the intake side of the motor. 

Secondly, if you have old plugs, wires and coil, time for a Tune Up. 

Thirdly, Blue Coolant temp sensor. 

Forth, using the Bentley, check for signal at the fuel pump and ecu relays when the car dies. If you have a loose contact, that may also be an issue. If you do not have the means to do basic troubleshooting, you need to stop asking how to do it, and take it to a reputable shop. 

Good day sir.


----------



## Rosten (Dec 17, 2009)

What do i need to convert my 4x100 to 5x100? Can i just drill new pattern on my old hub, so i would have both, 4- and 5x100? 

And if i buy vr6 hubs, do i need to change anything else? 

thanks already!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Rosten said:


> What do i need to convert my 4x100 to 5x100? Can i just drill new pattern on my old hub, so i would have both, 4- and 5x100?
> 
> And if i buy vr6 hubs, do i need to change anything else?
> 
> thanks already!


adaptec makes what you are looking for, contact [email protected] :thumbup:


----------



## Rosten (Dec 17, 2009)

> adaptec makes what you are looking for, contact [email protected]


Thanks, but i do know that already. And i think they are way too expensive. 

But looking at the adaptec hubs, i could drill the new pattern next to the old one.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Rosten said:


> Thanks, but i do know that already. And i think they are way too expensive.
> 
> But looking at the adaptec hubs, i could drill the new pattern next to the old one.


define expensive 

dollar for dollar, those come with new hubs, bearings and disks for all four corners for under $500 with the ability to run 4x100 & 5x100 anytime, not too bad in my book


----------



## V-TEC this!!! (May 4, 2003)

Sr. Karmann said:


> define expensive
> 
> dollar for dollar, those come with new hubs, bearings and disks for all four corners for under $500 with the ability to run 4x100 & 5x100 anytime, not too bad in my book




That is definately a good price. :beer:


----------



## Rosten (Dec 17, 2009)

> define expensive
> 
> dollar for dollar, those come with new hubs, bearings and disks for all four corners for under $500 with the ability to run 4x100 & 5x100 anytime, not too bad in my book


Well im truly sorry bro. I tought the price contains only the hubs. Really need to buy that adaptec set.

thanks again!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

V-TEC this!!! said:


> That is definately a good price. :beer:


:beer:



Rosten said:


> Well im truly sorry bro. I tought the price contains only the hubs. Really need to buy that adaptec set.
> 
> thanks again!


:thumbup:


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

are any special VAG tools needed to remove this pulley tensioner bracket on a G60 motor?

Also any special way to get it off an engine thats still mounted in the car? Or is it pretty straight forward? (charger and alternator already removed from the motor)


----------



## Jetta313 (Feb 27, 2011)

*Need help with G60*

Changed the plugs and did a complete tune up today and when I pulled the plug all the way to the passenger side the cylinder had gas in it. The plug was fine and looked like all the rest, it is running great but hard to start cranks for a bit like it's flooded! Any ideas?


----------



## yip (Jul 14, 2003)

cyberstasi said:


> are any special VAG tools needed to remove this pulley tensioner bracket on a G60 motor?
> 
> Also any special way to get it off an engine thats still mounted in the car? Or is it pretty straight forward? (charger and alternator already removed from the motor)


Pretty straight forward. Unbolt the tensioner and then you'll need a big socket (think it's a 21) that's where the big circle is on the right. There might be a plastic cap covering the nut/bolt that easily pops off.


----------



## chodie (Jan 15, 2010)

chodie said:


> Hey experts,
> 
> Can someone link me to the proper friction tape used to wrap an electrical harness? I know it's the 3m friction tape, but it seems that there are variations on it and I don't want to buy the wrong stuff.
> 
> ...


Anyone? 

I've searched the old threads and it seemed like hockey tape was a consensus, unfortunately I do not want to use hockey tape. I want whatever is closest to oem.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

chodie said:


> Anyone?
> 
> I've searched the old threads and it seemed like hockey tape was a consensus, unfortunately I do not want to use hockey tape. I want whatever is closest to oem.


What I used was friction tape from the electrical dept at Lowes, I didn't want to respond because I won't personally use it again, sure it holds up fine and protects well, but the look of it fades and if you need to remove it, it is rather tough, the glue _really_ mends together, especially with heat and any chemicals. I will however fully recommend Tech-Flex, although kind of a PITA to install.


----------



## had1ofeverydub (Nov 4, 2001)

*Need an expert..*

1992 SLC
Novice (Not totally retarded)

I have searched, but can't seem to find anything where someone is having/had the exact same issue. I have tried those "fixes" with no luck. Here goes..

The turn signals and hazards work, but they don't light up in the gauge cluster. I have tried relay's, ground's, and fuses. I have even swapped clusters to another car I have. With this cluster in the other car, they light up and work as they should. Using that car's working cluster back in the car in question, they don't light up..

The car just failed inspection for this, so I have to fix it. It is driving me nuts! Am I missing something simple? Experts, please help...TIA!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

chodie said:


> Anyone?
> 
> I've searched the old threads and it seemed like hockey tape was a consensus, unfortunately I do not want to use hockey tape. I want whatever is closest to oem.


Hockey tape is junk and falls apart, either use friction tape or a self-healing automotive electrical tape (expensive). 3M makes it, it is awesome.

Other option is like what chad said below, use techflex. I would only recommend it if you keep your bay clean though. Otherwise it will still leave the wire to get brittle.



Sr. Karmann said:


> What I used was friction tape from the electrical dept at Lowes, I didn't want to respond because I won't personally use it again, sure it holds up fine and protects well, but the look of it fades and if you need to remove it, it is rather tough, the glue _really_ mends together, especially with heat and any chemicals. I will however fully recommend Tech-Flex, although kind of a PITA to install.


friction tape is basically what the factory uses. In my experience it hasn't faded (could be the brand). I like the fact that it is difficult to pull apart. It means it is doing its job. If you want to get rid of the stickiness with it then use baby powder on it after you finish with it.


----------



## 350Zimo (Mar 9, 2011)

93 Slc it has a dual timing chain, correct?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

350Zimo said:


> 93 Slc it has a dual timing chain, correct?


unless the engine was replaced at some point.


----------



## Zygz (Mar 31, 2011)

90 G60 

mods- to my knowledge
bosal headers
2.5" catback
stg 2 charger(kompressor kanada)
BBM intake
p-chip
motor rebuilt no more than 6k miles ago charger done at same time too..
tranny was replaced about 1k ago


ok..... now down to whats wrong with the car..... 

car smokes like crazy(black smoke), runs really rich.. fpr/injectors/fuel pump/fuel filter all new
at WOT car feels as though car chokes/spudders before it takes off like it should, when comin to a stop after giving it a go, car dies completely(sometimes as soon as clutch is engaged). This is just 1 of the problems i have with my car but ill just go posting as i try to fix i guess.. any input appreciated ive owned this car 6 years now.. and shes been through her share of sh*t


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Zygz said:


> 90 G60
> 
> mods- to my knowledge
> bosal headers
> ...


Since you've done the above work (fpr/injectors/fuel pump/fuel filter), I would suggest:
Blue temp sensor?
Plugs & wires? (get the correct Bosch W6DPO plugs)
Check timing?
Distributor cap & rotor?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Since you've done the above work (fpr/injectors/fuel pump/fuel filter), I would suggest:
> Blue temp sensor?
> Plugs & wires? (get the correct Bosch W6DPO plugs)
> Check timing?
> Distributor cap & rotor?


^this and... o2 sensor & harness, clean/adjust ISV & check WOT & Idle switches

Edit: also knock sensor & harness


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> ^this and... o2 sensor & harness, clean/adjust ISV & check WOT & Idle switches
> 
> Edit: also knock sensor & harness


oops, forgot o2 sensor ...'cause I don't have one, lol :laugh:


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

Does anybody have any tips on installing the front subframe mounts on a VR6? The ones that sit in the cross member.

I've tried muscling it in there with no luck.
I've tried boiling the rubber mounts to soften them up with no luck.
I've tried some lubricant with the above two methods also with no luck.

Any tips would be awesome, I've ran out of ideas to try.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

iAco you need a press to put those in.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

iAco said:


> Does anybody have any tips on installing the front subframe mounts on a VR6? The ones that sit in the cross member.
> 
> I've tried muscling it in there with no luck.
> I've tried boiling the rubber mounts to soften them up with no luck.
> ...





DUBZAK said:


> iAco you need a press to put those in.


This or you may be able to get a c-clamp and some creativity to work too.


----------



## eurosportgti (Jan 15, 2003)

TheBurninator said:


> This or you may be able to get a c-clamp and some creativity to work too.


IMO u definatly need a press. I just tried all of the above methods and the C clamp method too. I ended up breaking my C clamp and taking them to my buddies shop to be pressed in.


----------



## Zygz (Mar 31, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> ^this and... o2 sensor & harness, clean/adjust ISV & check WOT & Idle switches
> 
> Edit: also knock sensor & harness


Ok only thing we havent replaced is the isv or wot/idle switches I can look into that but im runnin the right plugs and everything else that u listed has,been done as well im not retarded when it comes to cars but I have no experience in corrados other than what ive learned since owning 1, also a mechanic my dad talked to stated that it might be the rings but I dont know how reliable his input is thnx for the help guys and any other advice is appreciated


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Calm your self down......If we missed it, repost it, and we will get to you.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thank you sir 

I got a tune up recently but I was wondering if it might be the cam position sensor because those seem to be the symptoms the car just turns over but no start I have to wait like 2-3 minutes then turns on. Oh and where is it located the cam position sensor cause I checked in the bently and I can't seem to find it?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

tonyg60 said:


> Thank you sir
> 
> I got a tune up recently but I was wondering if it might be the cam position sensor because those seem to be the symptoms the car just turns over but no start I have to wait like 2-3 minutes then turns on. Oh and where is it located the cam position sensor cause I checked in the bently and I can't seem to find it?


There is no cam position sensor on a g60...


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Hall Sender on the Distributor is the closest thing to a Cam Position Sensor. :thumbup: 

Verify the plug is not broken or hanging on by a wire.


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Hall Sender on the Distributor is the closest thing to a Cam Position Sensor. :thumbup:
> 
> Verify the plug is not broken or hanging on by a wire.


is it outside the distributor or do I have to open it

Thanks:thumbup:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

It is the plug on the side of the distributor. It is technically internal, but has plug on the outside


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

1990 g60 

ok im changing the hall sensor but i need to remove the shaft at the bottom of the distributor but it has a pin holding the gear. i tried punching it out but nothing imma try again later. should i just drill it out or what? 

thanks


----------



## Corrado_Shawn (Apr 3, 2011)

*90' Corrado G60*

1990 Corrado G60 

what is my max wheel size without problems, or a good size, and what is a good offset for my wheels? 
Also, which type of adjustable coilovers are reccomended?

I am no car guru, but i am learning...so still pretty novice.


----------



## eurosportgti (Jan 15, 2003)

what do you guys think is the best way to remove the adhesive that holds the sound deadening on the underside of the hood?


----------



## V-TEC this!!! (May 4, 2003)

I used a hair dryer with a little puddy knife. It took a very long time......taking the hood off makes it a lot easier. I also tried goo gone and it didnt seem to work very well.....I think a heat gun would make a lot of difference.



Corrado_Shawn said:


> 1990 Corrado G60
> 
> what is my max wheel size without problems, or a good size, and what is a good offset for my wheels?
> Also, which type of adjustable coilovers are reccomended?
> ...


The best sized wheels for a corrado are either 15's or 16's. But then again that is just my $0.02. 

As for coilovers, I have Koni's and I love them but there are no complaints about the FK's, H&R's and Bilsteins.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

V-TEC this!!! said:


> ...As for coilovers, I have Koni's and I love them but there are no complaints about the FK's, H&R's and Bilsteins.


^^+KWs :thumbup:


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Gearing up to rewire my entire car, are the copper connectors attached to each wire that go into the relay panel available for purchase or do I have to reuse them? TIA


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

So the A/C in my Corrado has 0 charge, nothing in it. What steps should I take to troubleshoot and get it going again? Should I start by trying to charge it or check anything for leaks/functionality first?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> Gearing up to rewire my entire car, are the copper connectors attached to each wire that go into the relay panel available for purchase or do I have to reuse them? TIA


Yes you can purchase the junior amp terminals thru Ballenger Motorsports, they also sell the crimper :thumbup:



elijah- said:


> So the A/C in my Corrado has 0 charge, nothing in it. What steps should I take to troubleshoot and get it going again? Should I start by trying to charge it or check anything for leaks/functionality first?


AC has to have some pressure or the compressor will not kick on, charge it, if it has 0lbs, I would recommend vacuuming out the system and recharge with some freon with dye if you think there is a leak


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Yes you can purchase the junior amp terminals thru Ballenger Motorsports, they also sell the crimper :thumbup:


you the man! :thumbup:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> you the man! :thumbup:


:thumbup:


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> :thumbup:


They have a great selection of items I could use.

The connectors I was looking for I couldnt seem to find on the site. I might be missing something but I found a thread on the forum whilst googling tyco connectors and it turns out this is exactly what I was looking for 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...of-the-Day-10-13-OE-Type-Electrical-Terminals


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> They have a great selection of items I could use.
> 
> The connectors I was looking for I couldnt seem to find on the site. I might be missing something but I found a thread on the forum whilst googling tyco connectors and it turns out this is exactly what I was looking for
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...of-the-Day-10-13-OE-Type-Electrical-Terminals


this is what I thought you were talking about...

http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/109_136/products_id/1754

wow, the price has gone way up too, when I got mine they were $.35 each :screwy:


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> this is what I thought you were talking about...
> 
> http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/109_136/products_id/1754
> 
> wow, the price has gone way up too, when I got mine they were $.35 each :screwy:




Yeah those are super expensive. Its cheaper to just use new connectors


----------



## paul610 (Oct 26, 2010)

so my corrado has been sitting for a while for an assortment of reasons but i have been trying to get it back up and running. so after i got some little things done with it i got a battery thinking it would start right up but it wont. in fact the car wont even receive power. I checked the leads and they are fine. checked the started and it seems to be fine. and all the fuses are good.

is there something im missing on why the car wont receive power?:screwy:


----------



## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

^^Paul did u checked your grounds and is there any "reaction" when turning the ingnition?



So i saw those longbeach for dirty cheap and they come with almost new tires with like 5k on them... But the thing is they are *225/45/17 *and wheels are 7" wide with ET38 

I've looked in the stance/mom's horoscope thread but everyone seem to run 205 or even 195 so i was wondering *will it fit?*. I mean the tire will be a bit more beefier but will i have clearance issue with a moderate to quasiflush drop? If it rub would it be on the inside (spacers) or oustide (fender work)

Thanks guys i would like to know if they'll fit before making the deal..


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Seb--Morin said:


> ^^Paul did u checked your grounds and is there any "reaction" when turning the ingnition?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


they gonna rub, I ran 205's on et38 17x7's and when I dropped I had to space the rears out 5mm just to clear the coil. I run 205's on 17x7.5 et 42 now with 15mm front and 25mm rear spacers and I had to roll my fenders, I still get a little rub in the front fenderwells and sit pretty flush on the outside and I'm not even running that low. I'd say you could run them, but will need beefy ass spacers and not be low


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

paul610 said:


> so my corrado has been sitting for a while for an assortment of reasons but i have been trying to get it back up and running. so after i got some little things done with it i got a battery thinking it would start right up but it wont. in fact the car wont even receive power. I checked the leads and they are fine. checked the started and it seems to be fine. and all the fuses are good.
> 
> is there something im missing on why the car wont receive power?:screwy:


First i would have the battery tested, second, can making us aware of the "assortment of reasons" it's sitting help and third start checking grounds in the engine bay.

To be completely honest (and i'm sure others will agree with me), i'm pretty sure it would help significantly if you tell us about the reasons its sitting and what kind of stuff you've done to the car.

Cheers


----------



## need4speed2345 (May 12, 2005)

16x7 wheel with 35mm offset work on G60?


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

paul610 said:


> so my corrado has been sitting for a while for an assortment of reasons but i have been trying to get it back up and running. so after i got some little things done with it i got a battery thinking it would start right up but it wont. in fact the car wont even receive power. I checked the leads and they are fine. checked the started and it seems to be fine. and all the fuses are good.
> 
> is there something im missing on why the car wont receive power?:screwy:


Battery, grounds, ignition switch, starter. :thumbup:


----------



## yip (Jul 14, 2003)

need4speed2345 said:


> 16x7 wheel with 35mm offset work on G60?


They'll fit just fine! They would look better though if you ran 15mm or 20mm spacer!

What size tire are you planning on running?


----------



## paul610 (Oct 26, 2010)

Das.Rado said:


> First i would have the battery tested, second, can making us aware of the "assortment of reasons" it's sitting help and third start checking grounds in the engine bay.
> 
> To be completely honest (and i'm sure others will agree with me), i'm pretty sure it would help significantly if you tell us about the reasons its sitting and what kind of stuff you've done to the car.
> 
> Cheers


well i didnt have a job and i have been busy with college so i didnt really have to much time on my hands to really put the time into it. but now i do now that my classes are done  

but i just got the battery not even a week ago and its a wet cell and i did do a gravity test and everything checked out good. and i checked most of the grounds in the bay and they are ok. hopefully the rain tomorrow doesnt keep me from checking it more cause i do keep it outside. are there specific grounds i should make sure i check? i did the starter so next would be the ignition?


----------



## need4speed2345 (May 12, 2005)

yip said:


> They'll fit just fine! They would look better though if you ran 15mm or 20mm spacer!
> 
> What size tire are you planning on running?


couldnt tell ya. Just found a nice set i liked. What do you suggest?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

need4speed2345 said:


> couldnt tell ya. Just found a nice set i liked. What do you suggest?


195/45 or 205/40, that's what I would do :thumbup:


----------



## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> they gonna rub, I ran 205's on et38 17x7's and when I dropped I had to space the rears out 5mm just to clear the coil. I run 205's on 17x7.5 et 42 now with 15mm front and 25mm rear spacers and I had to roll my fenders, I still get a little rub in the front fenderwells and sit pretty flush on the outside and I'm not even running that low. I'd say you could run them, but will need beefy ass spacers and not be low


Hey thanks for the input! 

It suck about the tires tho cause he's even willing to refinish and paint them for 100$ more... But the stupid 225 balloons are causing problems as i tought, i was thinking about spacers to pull them flush with the fender but if i understand i wont be able to drop cause they'll rub on it?The front are already rolled so that help me and in the back could i clear the strut and still be inside the fender (untouched for now) 

Im dont want to necessarly go super low as our road are so s***ty, as long as there is no/minimal wheel gap im alright, this is what i had last year (15" oem) ->


----------



## VR6Nutt (Dec 18, 2003)

*Rich VR6*

I've seen numerous topics about VR6 motors running rich and a few conclusive steps to follow to remedy the problem Can anyone please confirm that these are the items to check? As mine throws an intermittent CEL (OBDI) and failed CA Smog. test  Is there a FAQ/DIY?

So far, I have purchased, but have to install:

- O2 Sensor (Blinked code) 
- Blue Coolant Sensor
- Brown Coolant Sensor

Think I need to purchase:
- CAT - figured universal high flow would work as that's what I installed 100k ago. I literally have black splatter on the concrete behind my tailpipe from cold start ups! And yes, there is a nice layer of gray in the tailpipe. 


I also have an issue where if I am on the gas WFO, the power seems to "cut" at higher RPM...rich? And the car runs better with the AC on! But still maintain 30MPG (TDI 5th).

Is there anything else that should be checked/replaced? Tags are due on Friday!! Help! :wave:


----------



## JohnnyCee (Mar 26, 2011)

*block size*

I have a 90 vr6 corrado and im decent at working on cars. my question was what is the easiet way to find out whether you have a small or long block in a VR6?

Thanks


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

paul610 said:


> well i didnt have a job and i have been busy with college so i didnt really have to much time on my hands to really put the time into it. but now i do now that my classes are done
> 
> but i just got the battery not even a week ago and its a wet cell and i did do a gravity test and everything checked out good. and i checked most of the grounds in the bay and they are ok. hopefully the rain tomorrow doesnt keep me from checking it more cause i do keep it outside. are there specific grounds i should make sure i check? i did the starter so next would be the ignition?


Are you getting any electricity, like to your cluster or your vaccum module for the door locks?


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

elijah- said:


> So the A/C in my Corrado has 0 charge, nothing in it. What steps should I take to troubleshoot and get it going again? Should I start by trying to charge it or check anything for leaks/functionality first?



Find a good A/C shop and get it leaked tested. Total waste of money to recharge it with freon even with dye. I found a local shop to test mine for $50.


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

JohnnyCee said:


> I have a 90 vr6 corrado and im decent at working on cars. my question was what is the easiet way to find out whether you have a small or long block in a VR6?
> 
> Thanks


Do you mean short block and long block?

http://www.ehow.com/facts_5890806_long-block-vs_-short-block.html


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

paul610 said:


> but i just got the battery not even a week ago and its a wet cell and i did do a gravity test and everything checked out good. and i checked most of the grounds in the bay and they are ok. hopefully the rain tomorrow doesnt keep me from checking it more cause i do keep it outside. are there specific grounds i should make sure i check? i did the starter so next would be the ignition?


Load test the battery. If you don't have a proper load tester than take it to a shop that does. Have it load tested out of the car to make sure you have a strong battery.

You keep saying you checked things but what exactly does check mean? Do you own a multi-meter? Are you testing for 12 volts and ground at the battery, at the starter, at the ignition switch, and at the fusebox? Its a simple process of elimination starting at the battery to confirm you have a good battery. Are you testing your grounds for continuity?


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

VR6Nutt said:


> I've seen numerous topics about VR6 motors running rich and a few conclusive steps to follow to remedy the problem Can anyone please confirm that these are the items to check? As mine throws an intermittent CEL (OBDI) and failed CA Smog. test  Is there a FAQ/DIY?
> 
> So far, I have purchased, but have to install:
> 
> ...


Make sure you get a cat that is for California if you get a universal. :thumbup:


----------



## paul610 (Oct 26, 2010)

dogger said:


> Load test the battery. If you don't have a proper load tester than take it to a shop that does. Have it load tested out of the car to make sure you have a strong battery.
> 
> You keep saying you checked things but what exactly does check mean? Do you own a multi-meter? Are you testing for 12 volts and ground at the battery, at the starter, at the ignition switch, and at the fusebox? Its a simple process of elimination starting at the battery to confirm you have a good battery. Are you testing your grounds for continuity?


I have a multi-meter and i did test for voltage on the battery and ground at the battery and starter. i didn't get to the ignition yesterday but im going to do that right now.:thumbup:


----------



## V-TEC this!!! (May 4, 2003)

A multi meter does not test it under load. You need to do a proper load test.


----------



## G60Scuzz (Nov 14, 2003)

Autozone / Advanced auto parts / o'riley (checker) usually can test that for you free of charge as well.


----------



## GreenEyedBandit (Sep 18, 2003)

1990 G60 manual trans

Because these cars are getting harder and harder to find parts for, what are some parts every G60 owner should have a double or triple of- especially if you don't have room to store a parts car?

Thanks! :beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

GreenEyedBandit said:


> 1990 G60 manual trans
> 
> Because these cars are getting harder and harder to find parts for, what are some parts every G60 owner should have a double or triple of- especially if you don't have room to store a parts car?
> 
> Thanks! :beer:


One of everything, cause you know it's gonna break


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Hello Experts, I just have a question about Ecode Leveling. 

I have Ecodes with the motorized levelers and i was just wondering what number on the rheostat is Legal Height (sorry for my lack of a better word)? Also my driver side light is pointed towards the pavement quite a bit and i was wondering if this is a common problem that can be fixed by taking the light apart and pushing it up or something?

Cheers


----------



## XxxcorradoxxX (Mar 31, 2011)

*Please help*

Hello sorry to sound like a noob but on my gti the rear strut and spring are separate is it supposed to be the same on a corrado...i just baught my first rado an love it but i need to replace the rear struts and noticed that the spring is rapped around the strut just like the front and i thought thats wierd.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Das.Rado said:


> Hello Experts, I just have a question about Ecode Leveling.
> 
> I have Ecodes with the motorized levelers and i was just wondering what number on the rheostat is Legal Height (sorry for my lack of a better word)?*Not sure on this, but your state has machines to show headlight aiming and what is legal. * Also my driver side light is pointed towards the pavement quite a bit and i was wondering if this is a common problem that can be fixed by taking the light apart and pushing it up or something?
> *The drivers side is supposed to pointed slightly lower than the passenger side to not blind oncoming traffic. There are adjusters inside the light that could be broken if the beam does not come up that far after manually adjusting the electric levelers and using the switch to raise them. I have HID's and run them down until I get cut off or someone drives slower than the speed limit. :laugh: *
> Cheers






XxxcorradoxxX said:


> Hello sorry to sound like a noob but on my gti the rear strut and spring are separate is it supposed to be the same on a corrado...i just baught my first rado an love it but i need to replace the rear struts and noticed that the spring is rapped around the strut just like the front and i thought thats wierd.


You must have had a MK4, and no the Corrado has similar suspension to MK3's and MK2's. 

MK4's are weird.  :laugh:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> MK4's are weird.  :laugh:


QFT


----------



## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

Can anyone tell me what part number or where I can get this peice. It is the guide bolt on the bottom of the brake caliper. Problem is the screw snapped off in it :banghead: 

http://img641.imageshack.us/i/216mm.jpg/

I have googled and found this.

http://www.car-stuff.com/basket.php?add_item_id=3906121

It comes with the bolts but I didn't really want to have to buy the whole caliper if I didn't have to. Thanks in advance


----------



## SPECiAL_K777 (Dec 18, 2007)

hey experts i have a 93 corrado coilpack vr6 not the distributor/rotor kind. i have a starting problem...car will crank but it seems thers not enoguh power goin into it to actually get it to start im no car expert but im very handy. i understand that relay 109 controls the fuel pump but when i try to hear for the fuel pump kicking it doesnt go on...its a solid car but has this issue plz help


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

SPECiAL_K777 said:


> hey experts i have a 93 corrado coilpack vr6 not the distributor/rotor kind. i have a starting problem...car will crank but it seems thers not enoguh power goin into it to actually get it to start im no car expert but im very handy. i understand that relay 109 controls the fuel pump but when i try to hear for the fuel pump kicking it doesnt go on...its a solid car but has this issue plz help


The fuel pump should prime with key on and then stop until you crank the car.

If it doesn't then check the relay and go from there...


----------



## XxxcorradoxxX (Mar 31, 2011)

DUBZAK said:


> You must have had a MK4, and no the Corrado has similar suspension to MK3's and MK2's.
> 
> MK4's are weird.  :laugh:


thanks i figuered it out lol


----------



## need4speed2345 (May 12, 2005)

RedYellowWhite said:


> 195/45 or 205/40, that's what I would do :thumbup:


K got wheels, tires (195/45/16) and just ordered 20mm spacers... what size lugs do i need? 42mm?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

need4speed2345 said:


> K got wheels, tires (195/45/16) and just ordered 20mm spacers... what size lugs do i need? 42mm?


Your spacers didn't come with hardware?


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

bpodlesnik said:


> Can anyone tell me what part number or where I can get this peice. It is the guide bolt on the bottom of the brake caliper. Problem is the screw snapped off in it :banghead:
> 
> http://img641.imageshack.us/i/216mm.jpg/
> 
> ...


 Parts breakdown doesn't list them separately from the Carrier, so No part number to look up. I have several used ones lying around. PM me your address, and I'll send you a couple.


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Hey guys,

I got a weired symptom all of a sudden and ill explain the details and maybe you guys will have an idea.

So i own a 93 vr6 corrado and i recently obd2 swapped it, since then my rad fans have only been working in high gear and the after run hasn't been working and also my horns weren't working either. 

Anyways today i finally had time to look into this and i noticed the horn relay was not there, i guess it fell out somewhere along the way and i didnt realise, and ac relay (controls the fan stuff) was a different number than what "a2resource.com" says should be there (was #133 relay put in #13). So i changed the ac relay to #13 and put in a horn relay, #53. So i put the key to "ACC" and test the horn, sure enough it works, go to turn the car on and it just cranks but no start.

I drove the car earlier this morning with no abnormalities, any idea as to what happened here?


----------



## nomad1721 (Apr 4, 2005)

Auto seatbelt question for the experts.

I've been searching and no one seems to have had the problem I have. A few months ago, my seatbelt started acting weird. When I open the drivers side door it starts to move forward and the door chime goes off, but when I open the door more than a few inches, the chime turns off, and the seatbelt goes back as if the door is closed. It really pissed me off the first few times it did it because I was in a hurry to get out of the car and the belt would come back and knock me back in the seat. Plus anytime I turn the car on when I'm not sitting in the seat it hits me in the head. Lots of fun. Thanks all :beer:

Josh


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

nomad1721 said:


> Auto seatbelt question for the experts.
> 
> I've been searching and no one seems to have had the problem I have. A few months ago, my seatbelt started acting weird. When I open the drivers side door it starts to move forward and the door chime goes off, but when I open the door more than a few inches, the chime turns off, and the seatbelt goes back as if the door is closed. It really pissed me off the first few times it did it because I was in a hurry to get out of the car and the belt would come back and knock me back in the seat. Plus anytime I turn the car on when I'm not sitting in the seat it hits me in the head. Lots of fun. Thanks all :beer:
> 
> Josh


May be a faulty relay or door switch circuit. Do yourself and your car a favor and pull those prone to be faulty ass seatbelt relays and just connect them like regular belts, just in reverse. :thumbup:


----------



## Z WildMan (Nov 3, 2010)

*Shifter Stick Slop*

ok, simple question, If i purchase a short throw shfter kit will it get rid of the slop? or is there another piece that i have to purchase to fix that? I would like to get a short throw shifter but want to kill 2 birds with one stone.

to better define "slop" - the stick (even when in gear) moves from side to side quite a bit. I call it slop, I've heard it refered to as play... idk what it is but it bugs the f uck outta me...

I've got the 5spd vr6 and if the solution IS a short throw shifter... any suggestions? I've looked at ECS and a few different places but dont know if one is better than any other.

thanks


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> GreenEyedBandit said:
> 
> 
> > 1990 G60 manual trans
> ...


Just 'one' of everything? Wow... someone is tempting fate. You like to live dangerously dont you. :laugh:



Sr. Karmann said:


> *Three* of everything, cause you know it's gonna break...................... twice


Fixed.:laugh:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Z WildMan said:


> ok, simple question, If i purchase a short throw shfter kit will it get rid of the slop? or is there another piece that i have to purchase to fix that? I would like to get a short throw shifter but want to kill 2 birds with one stone.
> 
> to better define "slop" - the stick (even when in gear) moves from side to side quite a bit. I call it slop, I've heard it refered to as play... idk what it is but it bugs the f uck outta me...
> 
> ...


Not personally familiar with the VR setup, but do know these are available. You could always pop your boot trim, look in and see what's up, could also be on the shift tower itself, good luck :thumbup:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4679508-Verdict-Motorsports-Shifter-Bushings



cyberstasi said:


> Just 'one' of everything? Wow... someone is tempting fate. You like to live dangerously dont you. :laugh:
> 
> Fixed.:laugh:


HAHAHAHAHA :laugh:


----------



## nomad1721 (Apr 4, 2005)

Sr. Karmann said:


> May be a faulty relay or door switch circuit.


Relay is ok. Door switch is new also, but I guess I'll dive deeper into the wiring.




Sr. Karmann said:


> Do yourself and your car a favor and pull those prone to be faulty ass seatbelt relays and just connect them like regular belts, just in reverse. :thumbup:


I knew this was coming! :laugh:

Thanks for the advice!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

nomad1721 said:


> Relay is ok. Door switch is new also, but I guess I'll dive deeper into the wiring.
> 
> Thanks for the advice!


:thumbup:



nomad1721 said:


> I knew this was coming! :laugh:


Ya, but you forgot to call it :laugh:


----------



## PoweredByG60 (Nov 12, 2001)

*Front wheel bearing?*

i am replacing the entire front end steering knuckle, wheel hub, wheel bearing, control arm w/ new bushings, rotors, pads the works. 
i pressed the wheel bearing-hub-knuckle with the help of the CCC technical DIY, made my own "press" just like the write up. i have never messed with the front wheel bearings before. 
there is a small amount of play on the new hubs. my old setup is solid doesn't have any play, just makes the metal rubbing or grinding noise. the exact noise i tore into this project to fix. should i have any play? or did i mess things up while pressing it together?


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Das.Rado said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I got a weired symptom all of a sudden and ill explain the details and maybe you guys will have an idea.
> 
> ...


Just a tiny update.... I unplugged the ecu for a bit and replugged it, thinking it needed a reset or something, but when i turn the key to "On" i didn't hear the throttle body make the adjustment sound so i'm thinking the ecu got fried or just isn't getting power all of a sudden. Any idea?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Das.Rado said:


> Just a tiny update.... I unplugged the ecu for a bit and replugged it, thinking it needed a reset or something, but when i turn the key to "On" i didn't hear the throttle body make the adjustment sound so i'm thinking the ecu got fried or just isn't getting power all of a sudden. Any idea?


To reset the ECU, you need to remove the battery terminals and hold the + & - together for about 30 seconds


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

need4speed2345 said:


> K got wheels, tires (195/45/16) and just ordered 20mm spacers... what size lugs do i need? 42mm?


how wide are your rims?? Tell me at least 8"


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

PoweredByG60 said:


> i am replacing the entire front end steering knuckle, wheel hub, wheel bearing, control arm w/ new bushings, rotors, pads the works.
> i pressed the wheel bearing-hub-knuckle with the help of the CCC technical DIY, made my own "press" just like the write up. i have never messed with the front wheel bearings before.
> there is a small amount of play on the new hubs. my old setup is solid doesn't have any play, just makes the metal rubbing or grinding noise. the exact noise i tore into this project to fix. should i have any play? or did i mess things up while pressing it together?


Wheel bearings should have ZERO play and should be very tight going in. Another words so tight that they need to be pressed in. Did you hammer them in? Are they the right replacement part? Did you check your tie rods? Those make the hub "wobble" if they are even the slightest bit worn too. :thumbup:


----------



## PoweredByG60 (Nov 12, 2001)

i pressed them, all 3 parts are brand new. i hope GAP sent me the correct parts. guess ill order another set of wheel bearings. let a pro press them together.


----------



## wed3k (Feb 22, 2010)

PoweredByG60 said:


> i pressed them, all 3 parts are brand new. i hope GAP sent me the correct parts. guess ill order another set of wheel bearings. let a pro press them together.


probably didnt support it by the inner race when putting the hub on.


in regards to my project corrado, why is the brake switch 1 inch away from the pedal? the brake booster was out of the car when i received it but i dont think i really messed with the pedals. 

so yea, the lights are always on because of that...i just dont see any other way to bolt it up? 
Ill take a look at my other corrado when i get it back next week from my dad's house.


----------



## pug_nasty (Jun 17, 2009)

Hey guys quick question. Im putting my charger back in, but can't seem to get the belt tensioner to compress enough to get it on. Is there a trick to this? It does not want to budge.
Thanks


----------



## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

There's a few posts on this. I used a BIG clamp I bought at home depot to hold it down. Others have used a c-clamp. You need some sort of tool to compress that thing to get the belt on.

Hope this helps...



pug_nasty said:


> Hey guys quick question. Im putting my charger back in, but can't seem to get the belt tensioner to compress enough to get it on. Is there a trick to this? It does not want to budge.
> Thanks


----------



## RadoRedHead (Jul 20, 2010)

*Rado wont start! Need Help*

93 VR6 Dist. engine. Drove my car last night and it drove fine but went to start it today and it just cranks. no sputter or pop, nothing! Just cranking. I can hear the fuel pump kick on when I turn the key to "on". So put your thinking caps on and please help me out. Thanks in adavance.


----------



## pug_nasty (Jun 17, 2009)

lmurray said:


> There's a few posts on this. I used a BIG clamp I bought at home depot to hold it down. Others have used a c-clamp. You need some sort of tool to compress that thing to get the belt on.
> 
> Hope this helps...


I was thinking of a c-clamp, but wasnt sure if it would have a place to hold on to. I'll give it a try thanks :thumbup:


----------



## need4speed2345 (May 12, 2005)

pug_nasty said:


> I was thinking of a c-clamp, but wasnt sure if it would have a place to hold on to. I'll give it a try thanks :thumbup:


just stand on it.. lol sounds iffy but i can push it so its about 1/4 from being in the hole then i stand on the mount with my foot and wala


----------



## Corrado_Shawn (Apr 3, 2011)

alright, so i just have a question about other corrados MPG...right now i am at 12psi if that matters, i dont know what kind of exhaust i have...my cat is hollowed out. I just passed some injector cleaner through my car and it seems that my mpg went down.

Any Ideas? could it be the cat or my boost psi?


----------



## PoweredByG60 (Nov 12, 2001)

all was supported, had our machinists turn me a die for the bearing, it fits the ID of the inner race perfect and just 2 or 3 thousands smaller OD of the outer race. the hub did turn while pressing due to the turning of the nut on the thread. wonder if the turing while pressing f'ed the bearing.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Das.Rado said:


> Just a tiny update.... I unplugged the ecu for a bit and replugged it, thinking it needed a reset or something, but when i turn the key to "On" i didn't hear the throttle body make the adjustment sound so i'm thinking the ecu got fried or just isn't getting power all of a sudden. Any idea?


Check ECM Relay position 3 before going nuts into wiring or ECU. If you think you fried the ECU, open it up and verify visually for burns. If its fried, you will smell it and see it. 



RadoRedHead said:


> 93 VR6 Dist. engine. Drove my car last night and it drove fine but went to start it today and it just cranks. no sputter or pop, nothing! Just cranking. I can hear the fuel pump kick on when I turn the key to "on". So put your thinking caps on and please help me out. Thanks in adavance.


Check for spark at the coil wire, if good check for spark after the distributor. Also check ECM relay in position 3 on the relay panel. 




Corrado_Shawn said:


> alright, so i just have a question about other corrados MPG...right now i am at 12psi if that matters, i dont know what kind of exhaust i have...my cat is hollowed out. I just passed some injector cleaner through my car and it seems that my mpg went down.
> 
> Any Ideas? could it be the cat or my boost psi?


Unplug your O2 and see if that changes it. If not check for vacuum leaks, and verify the blue coolant temp sensor is good.


----------



## RadoRedHead (Jul 20, 2010)

Thank you very much. I went out to mess with it this morning and it started 6 or 7 times with the first crank. I am going to continue to play with it until its fixed. thanks again


----------



## pug_nasty (Jun 17, 2009)

Lol I dont think I would fit under the hood :laugh: Used a huge C-clamp and with a little luck got it on. Thanks Guys!



need4speed2345 said:


> just stand on it.. lol sounds iffy but i can push it so its about 1/4 from being in the hole then i stand on the mount with my foot and wala


----------



## DrivenNails (Aug 31, 2008)

I know I have a timing issue because I installed my distributer a few weeks ago and I think its a tooth off and I've been getting terrible gas mileage. however the past 2 days my car stalls after trying to go to idle. I think it might be a battery issue too because I barely get 12 volts on my volt meter and I have a brand new reman alternator from 3 months ago. Does anyone think I should buy a new battery or is that heavily depending on the timing for me to fix it. which I will in about 2 weeks because I am doing a crap ton of work to it I think on the 31st of april.

BTW if you live in the lancaster pa, area and would like to help me on that sunday the 31st of April. I would love some help installing my new abs swap/fixing the timing/g-lader charger. 








not to mention these bad boys are going on.










Thanks for any advice.
-Will


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DrivenNails said:


> I know I have a timing issue because I installed my distributer a few weeks ago and I think its a tooth off and I've been getting terrible gas mileage. however the past 2 days my car stalls after trying to go to idle. I think it might be a battery issue too because I barely get 12 volts on my volt meter and I have a brand new reman alternator from 3 months ago. Does anyone think I should buy a new battery or is that heavily depending on the timing for me to fix it. which I will in about 2 weeks because I am doing a crap ton of work to it I think on the 31st of april.
> 
> BTW if you live in the lancaster pa, area and would like to help me on that sunday the 31st of April. I would love some help installing my new abs swap/fixing the timing/g-lader charger.
> 
> ...


First man, you should not be driving it if timing is in question, fix it ASAP :beer:

To the wheels


----------



## DrivenNails (Aug 31, 2008)

I also moved my distributer to make it better. that's when I had problems. I'm fixing the timing tomorrow by actually moving the belt and re-aligning everything. I havent driven it today.


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> Check ECM Relay position 3 before going nuts into wiring or ECU. If you think you fried the ECU, open it up and verify visually for burns. If its fried, you will smell it and see it.


Yeah, it definitely isn't fried. That being said i went back and "reset" the ECU by touching the battery terminals together for about a minute and it started right up. However i let it idle and went to run an errand and when i went back to my car, same starting problem, tried to reset the ecu again, but this time it didnt start right away, called for a tow, but canceled because it started up after i hung up.

Just curious though, i though OBD2 doesn't utilize ecu relay? Anyways, i'm confident it is some sort of fuse block/wiring problem because each time it doesn't start the brake light fuse pops, so all in all i have some diagnose work coming soon.

Thanks for the help guys!


----------



## CorradoMan1 (Dec 19, 2009)

Hey guys, would you be so kind as to answer me what wheels these are?










:thumbup:
BIG thanks!

Nice car btw if it is yours


----------



## DrivenNails (Aug 31, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> First man, you should not be driving it if timing is in question, fix it ASAP :beer:
> 
> To the wheels


So it is the timing then?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DrivenNails said:


> So it is the timing then?


Wrong question dood, unless you have it timed with a light, bad idea to just spin it. You can damage a motor by being too far advanced or retarded, put a light on it and call it a day :thumbup:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Das.Rado said:


> Yeah, it definitely isn't fried. That being said i went back and "reset" the ECU by touching the battery terminals together for about a minute and it started right up. However i let it idle and went to run an errand and when i went back to my car, same starting problem, tried to reset the ecu again, but this time it didnt start right away, called for a tow, but canceled because it started up after i hung up.
> 
> Just curious though, i though OBD2 doesn't utilize ecu relay? Anyways, i'm confident it is some sort of fuse block/wiring problem because each time it doesn't start the brake light fuse pops, so all in all i have some diagnose work coming soon.
> 
> Thanks for the help guys!


 It does not have ecu relay but IIRC (which I am getting old) I thought it to still be a power supply relay. 

Have you scanned the car and ran basic settings? Setting the Trottlebody is required on OBD2 cars.


----------



## DrivenNails (Aug 31, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Wrong question dood, unless you have it timed with a light, bad idea to just spin it. You can damage a motor by being too far advanced or retarded, put a light on it and call it a day :thumbup:


I have a light but I couldn't see the marks? I'm looking for it again in an hour.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

CorradoMan1 said:


> Hey guys, would you be so kind as to answer me what wheels these are?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


^^
custom-made Image 3pc wheels.
9x15'' et15 front with 10mm spacers on 195/45/15 Falken 512s
10x15'' et10 rears on 215/40/15 Dunlop SP Sport 9000s
FK Konigsport coilovers with Stage 2 springs and removed helpers
Eibach camber bolts front and MasonTech rear axle alignment plates

featured in PVW Dec.2010 issue, p.78-87 along with the 2 other Westside Golfs


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

Has anyone relocated the cig lighter/replaced it with a different one? I'm a bit tired of whacking whatever I have plugged in with the shifter.


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> It does not have ecu relay but IIRC (which I am getting old) I thought it to still be a power supply relay.
> 
> Have you scanned the car and ran basic settings? Setting the Trottlebody is required on OBD2 cars.


Ill check the ecu relay later today, as for scanning the car, i got a carbon canister code because i deleted it a while back (but that never seemed to pose a problem before) and got ABS codes because i dont think i have it grounded properly. 

As for setting the throttle body, I let it adapt with the key turned to on, but i didnt get around to setting it with the VAGCOM yet. Also just curious as to what is meant by "ran basic settings"?

Cheers,
Steve


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Setting basic settings is a parameter set in VAGCOM that sets engine readiness on OBD2. Sets TB, confirms other basic functions 02's ect. 

It is on the VAGCOM engine page. It even will run you through the settings if not familiar.


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> Setting basic settings is a parameter set in VAGCOM that sets engine readiness on OBD2. Sets TB, confirms other basic functions 02's ect.
> 
> It is on the VAGCOM engine page. It even will run you through the settings if not familiar.


Oh nice, definitely did not even know that, thanks for the info!

Side note, tried to start the car and it didn't start, got my mom to turn the key while i banged the gas tank with a hammer and it started right up. In conclusion i'm pretty sure it's the fuel pump, but i still have to test the fuel pump wiring with the multimeter to clarify.

Anyways, thanks a lot for the help Zak!

Cheers,
Steve


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Werd. Ol Hammah and Fuel Pump Key Trick. :laugh:


----------



## CorradoMan1 (Dec 19, 2009)

so, the po of this g60 I bought has been running the green coolant.  what do i do next? Where is the best place to flush it out?


----------



## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

Flush out from lower hose, make sure you run a lot of water through till it's clear. Then as you add fresh G12 from up top (assuming that's what you want) it's fine that there is residual water left since the G12 can be topped off with water.
There isn't anything wrong with green coolant btw, it still does the job.










More help from a great write up

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3173739/page17


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Besides the dealer (if there is an option) where can I get a full set of mathcing key cylinders to replace hatch, doors and ignition TYIA


----------



## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

1993 VW Corrado SLC 125xxx Miles

What is the difference between g60 and vr6 front ends? I need a new bumper cover, radiator and radiator support. Why couldnt I use g60 parts that are much more abundant? Will Vr6 fog/blinkers fit in a g60 bumper cover? Will A g60 upper radiator support, fit vr6 headlights?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

02GTIFREESKIER said:


> 1993 VW Corrado SLC 125xxx Miles
> 
> What is the difference between g60 and vr6 front ends? I need a new bumper cover, radiator and radiator support. Why couldnt I use g60 parts that are much more abundant? Will Vr6 fog/blinkers fit in a g60 bumper cover? Will A g60 upper radiator support, fit vr6 headlights?


Because Using G60 Parts to repair a VR6 (which they are different for a reason)makes you look like this guy. 










Core is different
Bumper is Different (You can fit SLC fogs/turns into a G60 Bumper, but the bumper is narrower for the smaller track of the G60 Suspension)
G60 Radiator is slimmer thickness, and longer and your Fans do not fit. 
Unless it is a Universal Core Support, you will have problems with Headlight and Rad Fittiment (the right one)

And the car flat out deserves to be put back together CORRECTLY. I am sorry that something caused you to need to replace them, at least you don't need the fenders replaced, because +Plus suspension and G60 Fenders is funny looking on anything wider than a 6.5" wheel.


----------



## corrado-correr (Jul 8, 2004)

yeah, dont be that guy


----------



## g60nw (Mar 30, 2010)

My idle for the most part is nice and consistent but every once in awhile it will die out then bounce back up pretty high before leveling out again. Just curious what some things are I can look for to possibly fix it. Search brought up tons of info on idle issues but mostly issues where idle wasnt consistent.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

g60nw said:


> My idle for the most part is nice and consistent but every once in awhile it will die out then bounce back up pretty high before leveling out again. Just curious what some things are I can look for to possibly fix it. Search brought up tons of info on idle issues but mostly issues where idle wasnt consistent.


How about every one of those threads talking about cleaning the ISV first for idle issues. I would start there. 

But that could also be related to a Vacuum Leak, or voltage issues. 

Good luck, let us know what you find.


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## Sozs1.8t (Jan 12, 2011)

Greetings, new to the rado and have a few questions, looking for opinions from the experts 
Should be picking up a '90 g60 in a little bit. just going to be a getting around car till i finish with the army and can start a project.
The PO said he had a 2.0t in it and the turbo blew so he put the original block back in, orig block has ported heads, big valve, cam upgrades.
So the original block would be a 1.8 correct? . He said it has no charger, just the block. When I start this as a project, I am thinking of going Vr6 and supercharger. Basically build the engine/drive train from the ground up. any thoughts on this? 

ive been told recently that rados are just useful for the parts and are very high maintence, im hoping to turn this project into a beauty while learning more about the vw legacy. 
thanks for any help. 

`casey


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Sozs1.8t said:


> Greetings, new to the rado and have a few questions, looking for opinions from the experts
> Should be picking up a '90 g60 in a little bit. just going to be a getting around car till i finish with the army and can start a project.
> The PO said he had a 2.0t in it and the turbo blew so he put the original block back in, orig block has ported heads, big valve, cam upgrades.
> So the original block would be a 1.8 correct? *Yes*. He said it has no charger, just the block. When I start this as a project, I am thinking of going Vr6 and supercharger.*Supercharging..........right.......(((((insert hubblle ))))))Buy a VR6 then, walk away from a ran through car or you will spend ungodly amounts of money to get nowhere. There are major differences between G60 and VR6 Cars. * Basically build the engine/drive train from the ground up. any thoughts on this? *Again, if you want a VR6 buy one. Everybody thinks buying a G60 and swapping a VR in it is easy and cheap, its cheaper to find a VR6. Right now at least....With everyone hacking up the cars, its going to get slimmer and slimmer as to the amount of quality cars to buy. *
> ...


 Casey, you need to spend time in the FAQ and a lot of reading up. Start with the differences between G60 and SLC/VR6 cars and the build threads that are swap cars. Otherwise you will have a frankenstien hack job that will never serve as a quality auto to drive, and kinda crap that ruins the whole "Legacy" thing you spoke of.


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## Sozs1.8t (Jan 12, 2011)

thanks for the quick response and not being a dick :thumbup:

im currently in iraq and internet isn't the best so i tossed up a post without doing much reading (sorry on my part). 
im bookmarking the g60 pages and hopefully can get some reading in later tonight when the internet speeds up a bit. (dust storms cause bad satellite signal )


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sozs1.8t said:


> thanks for the quick response and not being a dick :thumbup:
> 
> im currently in iraq and internet isn't the best so i tossed up a post without doing much reading (sorry on my part).
> im bookmarking the g60 pages and hopefully can get some reading in later tonight when the internet speeds up a bit. (dust storms cause bad satellite signal )


You will have to excuse will.. something has come over him and he started being polite on the forums :laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:

Seriously though. he is right. Take the time researching the difference in parts and panels and make it right.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

I have my good days, and he posted in the correct thread didn't he? 

But I am totally sig'n that.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> I have my good days, and he posted in the correct thread didn't he?
> 
> But I am totally sig'n that.


HAHAHA awesome. :wave:


----------



## Halojunkie222 (Oct 27, 2009)

So i cant seem to find the ECU number.... Its under the rain tray...but do i need to pull anything off to find it or should it just be chillin on the ECU?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

10MM Bolt for the ECU Bracket, slides out. ECU part number is on it along with the Bosch P#.


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## BrownSoda (Mar 21, 2004)

All the info you guys know about how this helps control the Oil/Volt Guage


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

BrownSoda said:


> All the info you guys know about how this helps control the Oil/Volt Guage


Only thing it affects is sending signal to the oil pressure gauge.


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## BrownSoda (Mar 21, 2004)

TheBurninator said:


> Only thing it affects is sending signal to the oil pressure gauge.



Is the little plug for it on the same harness? I have the one plug marked and found, but dunno where the wire for the other bit went.


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## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

DUBZAK said:


> Because Using G60 Parts to repair a VR6 (which they are different for a reason)makes you look like this guy.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Hmm well the problem is VR6 Radiator supports are seemingly impossible to find. I found a guy locally who will sell me a g60 for cheap. So could I do some modifying, and get a g60 upper support to hold my headlights, and fit over the radiator or not? I work in a shop with a very nice fabricating bay, so I just need to know what I'm looking at to get the headlights to run in the g60 radiator support.

I think i found a VR6 bumper and fogs so hopefully the finished product wont make you elitist pricks(in the nicest way ) weep to much, but im really hung up on the support. And as it sits right now i have a mk3 vr6 radiator and switch in and I need to figure out if any support will clear that in the front. So if the headlights will mount up, Im going to buy the cheap one so I can get some progress(or i guess regress) made.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Beside the stealership, anywhere I can source new exhaust valves for the g60? Can get intake valves anywhere.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

02GTIFREESKIER said:


> Hmm well the problem is VR6 Radiator supports are seemingly impossible to find. I found a guy locally who will sell me a g60 for cheap. So could I do some modifying, and get a g60 upper support to hold my headlights, and fit over the radiator or not? I work in a shop with a very nice fabricating bay, so I just need to know what I'm looking at to get the headlights to run in the g60 radiator support.
> 
> I think i found a VR6 bumper and fogs so hopefully the finished product wont make you elitist pricks(in the nicest way ) weep to much, but im really hung up on the support. And as it sits right now i have a mk3 vr6 radiator and switch in and I need to figure out if any support will clear that in the front. So if the headlights will mount up, Im going to buy the cheap one so I can get some progress(or i guess regress) made.


IIRC the grill will need the tabs cut. Running a MK3 rad is completely different and without A/C you can mount it straight with fab work to the lower rad support. 
I cannot remember if the lower core bar will sit in on the VR headlights. 


HavokRuels said:


> Beside the stealership, anywhere I can source new exhaust valves for the g60? Can get intake valves anywhere.


 Try our forum sponsor 4 Season tuning and other shops that deal with G60 rebuilds.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

DUBZAK said:


> Try our forum sponsor 4 Season tuning and other shops that deal with G60 rebuilds.


TY :thumbup:


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## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

DUBZAK said:


> IIRC the grill will need the tabs cut. Running a MK3 rad is completely different and without A/C you can mount it straight with fab work to the lower rad support.
> I cannot remember if the lower core bar will sit in on the VR headlights.


Yeah i had no problem mounting the radiator, its already installed and working. But im not sure that the passenger side city light is going to have clearance even with the AC deleted. That is why I need a straight rad support. Im just going to try the g60 upper support. If it doesn't work Ill fork out the dough for a vr6 one. Thanks for the help, ill post the results so i can get a proper flaming.


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## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

HavokRuels said:


> Beside the stealership, anywhere I can source new exhaust valves for the g60? Can get intake valves anywhere.


Do you have a part number? I can cross it on our napa pro link, and see if anything comes up.


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## BrownSoda (Mar 21, 2004)

I stopped putting the valve cover on at the 2 studs coming from the cam/chain cover, they are longer and look like something more than just a nut was there, anyone have a good photo showing whats there? I've got a lot of nuts and washers, just need to know which ones to put there.


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## Johnny the Knuckles (Apr 12, 2011)

What size inlet/outlet is on the VR6 cat?

2.25"?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

BrownSoda said:


> I stopped putting the valve cover on at the 2 studs coming from the cam/chain cover, they are longer and look like something more than just a nut was there, anyone have a good photo showing whats there? I've got a lot of nuts and washers, just need to know which ones to put there.


Those look right and dont forget the engine covers use those posts too. 



Johnny the Knuckles said:


> What size inlet/outlet is on the VR6 cat?
> 
> 2.25"?


 Yes.


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## BrownSoda (Mar 21, 2004)

DUBZAK said:


> Those look right and dont forget the engine covers use those posts too.


I'm still a bit confused, how so? Its been too long and I can't remember how they go on


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

BrownSoda said:


> I'm still a bit confused, how so? Its been too long and I can't remember how they go on


I don't know how else to help you. 

The posts are Fine, The nut goes on leaving enough of those posts to place the engine cover on. The engine covers use a Triple Square 8MM nut that fastens the cover down using that threaded part sticking up over the nut you used for the valve cover. 

If its been a while since you pulled it apart you really should be using the Bentley for reassembly.


----------



## BrownSoda (Mar 21, 2004)

I have a Bentley, I don't see anything in it that shows something below the 10mm nut, and it looks like there was a washer or something below the nut on those studs causing the larger diameter worn spot.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

You never said anything about that you stated that the posts looked a little high. The nuts have the flat bottom, no washer needed.

1st Rule of Reassembly, remember how you took it apart.


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## BrownSoda (Mar 21, 2004)

I've been trying to flex my 4 year memory a lot, a lot of it has come back, but some stuff was just too small at the time, and I was pretty freshly 21:beer: back then to remember all of anything in my life.


Thanks much:thumbup:


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

I saw your thread post date, then your update. I know you will have an uphill battle on this time around as that is an extremely long time to go and try to remember everything. 

Any other VR's you can rip apart for practice? :laugh:


----------



## BrownSoda (Mar 21, 2004)

Well besides transmission, I think I'm back to the point I know where I'm doing almost. 

The VR is mostly together


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## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

What color is the o2 signal wire on a 91 g60. Tia


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

nu2dubbing said:


> What color is the o2 signal wire on a 91 g60. Tia


violet, then black on the sensor side of the plug


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

Thanks Sr


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

nu2dubbing said:


> Thanks Sr


:thumbup:


----------



## eurosportgti (Jan 15, 2003)

Whats the difference between VR rear motor mount brackets? I bolted mine up and one of the 4 points where it bolts to the block there is a space. Im assuming i have the wrong bracket. Thanks in advance.


pic to come


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## CorradoMan1 (Dec 19, 2009)

G60 brakes... 

I havent really looked at mine yet probably will tomorrow. But did all G60 Corrado's come with the dual piston Girling 60's?


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

single piston girling 54s


----------



## GreenEyedBandit (Sep 18, 2003)

1990 G60 trying to take out the grey carpet to replace with black carpet.
How do I get the passenger's side carpet with the heater core pipe going thru the carpet? Do I have to pull the dash and heater core or is there a simplier way other than cutting the carpet? It almost looks like there's a rubber connector that could maybe move some if everything was loosened.

Help?:banghead:


----------



## 2925 (Dec 11, 2007)

I'm gong out on a limb here and thinking that if I don't have the ABS light on my 90 g60's dash then I'm driving a non-ABS corrado?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

2925 said:


> I'm gong out on a limb here and thinking that if I don't have the ABS light on my 90 g60's dash then I'm driving a non-ABS corrado?


Not necessarily, look in the engine bay, if you have a saucer shaped booster attached to your firewall, it is non-ABS


----------



## 2925 (Dec 11, 2007)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Not necessarily, look in the engine bay, if you have a saucer shaped booster attached to your firewall, it is non-ABS


And a non-saucer(or ABS) unit would look like what for reference? I don't remember/am too lazy to double check to see if the Bible has an image of both.


----------



## cstanley19 (Sep 23, 2006)

Non-abs


----------



## Dustydelux (Apr 17, 2011)

*Hello.*

Hello all! I just purchased my first 1990 Vw G60 Corrado. This is my first car i just got my license last month, and felt the need to purchase a great first car. My father and i drove up to Dallas TX from Austin and picked it up. On the way home it started to load up spewing black smoke out of the back and running really bad, also there was gas leaking out of the tank in tha back so we droped the tank and found that the fuel pump was replaced last year with a new one and the seal is all whacked out so it was coming out of the top, we were concerned about the supercharger going on us on the way back since the guy who has had it the last 5 years didn't do anything to the car at all, literally nothing he also smoked  so it smells bad inside. We got it home and started to clean out the interior ripped up all the upholstery and vacuumed found some interesting things it seems that clutch or brake fluid was leaking and collected at the bottom of the driver side ruining the sound deadening foam no idea any ways i was wondering if you guys have any thoughts on the loading up problem and were i might be leaking from also i need door handles  the guy broke both a day before we came up to take a look at it. Sorry for the long post 

In summary any advice for loading up with black smoke coming out the rear.
Looking for *Door handles *
*Sound deadening for both the driver and passenger side.* 
maybe a new fuel pump??


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

the fluid in the interior could be from a blown heatercore. call a dealership with your VIN and see if its had any recall work done on it. if the heatercore blew and the car was running on next to no coolant the black smoke could be from engine probs resulting from overheating.

also the 'guy broke both doorhandles the day before i got the car' sounds real suspect. with the probs you describe... im sorry to say it sounds like he sold you a car he knew was screwed up. hopefully you didnt pay much for it.

i hope im just being synical about your situation? and its really not that bad. but in any case we here in Forum 8 are here to help.


----------



## Dustydelux (Apr 17, 2011)

cyberstasi said:


> the fluid in the interior could be from a blown heatercore. call a dealership with your VIN and see if its had any recall work done on it. if the heatercore blew and the car was running on next to no coolant the black smoke could be from engine probs resulting from overheating.
> 
> also the 'guy broke both doorhandles the day before i got the car' sounds real suspect. with the probs you describe... im sorry to say it sounds like he sold you a car he knew was screwed up. hopefully you didnt pay much for it.
> 
> i hope im just being synical about your situation? and its really not that bad. but in any case we here in Forum 8 are here to help.


Ahh yes he did mention something about the heater core :/ the fluid didn't look green, it was more of a reddish almost. Ya i payed 3000 for it definitely to much but i kinda knew it was going to need alot of help my dad is a mechanic and he tried to talk me out but said if i bought it i would need to do alot on it. But i want to learn how to work on a car so now i have something to work on . im trying to figure out if i should buy a heater core on line or go to a Vw dealer and see if they have parts?


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## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Dustydelux said:


> Ahh yes he did mention something about the heater core :/ the fluid didn't look green, it was more of a reddish almost. Ya i payed 3000 for it definitely to much but i kinda knew it was going to need alot of help my dad is a mechanic and he tried to talk me out but said if i bought it i would need to do alot on it. But i want to learn how to work on a car so now i have something to work on . im trying to figure out if i should buy a heater core on line or go to a Vw dealer and see if they have parts?


German Auto Parts or 1stvwparts.com, in person at the dealer ship should be a last resort, lol. However, you said your dad is a mechanic, any chance he can get you a shop discount, i know with my hook up i only payed $20CAD.


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Hey guys, i know this is a weired question, but can someone who has the time check where their ABS ground wires are grounded (somewhere around the master cylinder?).

Cheers


----------



## Dustydelux (Apr 17, 2011)

Das.Rado said:


> German Auto Parts or 1stvwparts.com, in person at the dealer ship should be a last resort, lol. However, you said your dad is a mechanic, any chance he can get you a shop discount, i know with my hook up i only payed $20CAD.


Why do you say last resort?


----------



## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

Dustydelux said:


> Why do you say last resort?


Cause if the part is available online/shops, then the $tealer is the last resort...


----------



## Dustydelux (Apr 17, 2011)

Seb--Morin said:


> Cause if the part is available online/shops, then the $tealer is the last resort...


 Hahah ok


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Das.Rado said:


> Hey guys, i know this is a weired question, but can someone who has the time check where their ABS ground wires are grounded (somewhere around the master cylinder?).
> 
> Cheers


IIRC, it's grounded at the negative battery post on the frame rail


----------



## RadoRedHead (Jul 20, 2010)

*Experts Please Help still no start*



RadoRedHead said:


> 93 VR6 Dist. engine. Drove my car last night and it drove fine but went to start it today and it just cranks. no sputter or pop, nothing! Just cranking. I can hear the fuel pump kick on when I turn the key to "on". So put your thinking caps on and please help me out. Thanks in adavance.


 It started 5 times in a row a few days ago but now it will just crank and crank. The ignition has failed before on me but when it fails I turn the key and no cranking. Maybe they are related? i dont know! Thank you very much


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

RadoRedHead said:


> It started 5 times in a row a few days ago but now it will just crank and crank. The ignition has failed before on me but when it fails I turn the key and no cranking. Maybe they are related? i dont know! Thank you very much


Pull the coil wire at the distributor and see if you have spark from the coil. 
If yes, next check one of the cylinder spark plugs. If you have spark, and you have fuel, have Checked that ECM relay yet? Position 3.


----------



## RadoRedHead (Jul 20, 2010)

Which one is position 3?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

ECM Power Supply is in position 3.


----------



## RadoRedHead (Jul 20, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> ECM Power Supply is in position 3.


 I have two rows of relays, top and bottom row have six positions. Is it the third relay from the left on the top row?


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

GreenEyedBandit said:


> 1990 G60 trying to take out the grey carpet to replace with black carpet.
> How do I get the passenger's side carpet with the heater core pipe going thru the carpet? Do I have to pull the dash and heater core or is there a simplier way other than cutting the carpet? It almost looks like there's a rubber connector that could maybe move some if everything was loosened.
> 
> Help?:banghead:


You shouldnt have to remove the heatercore. Check to see if there are any of those crazy plastic screws holding it in place up there. Anyone else got any ideas.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> You shouldnt have to remove the heatercore. Check to see if there are any of those crazy plastic screws holding it in place up there. Anyone else got any ideas.


This may just help with the carpet question


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

RadoRedHead said:


> I have two rows of relays, top and bottom row have six positions. Is it the third relay from the left on the top row?


http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html

Here is the fusebox, fuses, and relay diagram.


----------



## eurosportgti (Jan 15, 2003)

Gap in the rear motor mount i was talking about..........


whats wrong here?


----------



## CorradoMan1 (Dec 19, 2009)

what do you guys think of this? Since the Neuspeed one has gone extinct.. and I don't want a pillar pod... I guess the next thing would be a vent pod but still... 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170604257334&viewitem=#ht_1943wt_1167


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## Dustydelux (Apr 17, 2011)

*Odds and ends*

Ok so i have all my interior striped out all the side panals off alot of the little tabs for the side panals are missing as well as the small plastic buttons that hold the carpet in place. What is the best place to get these little buggers? also i need new sound deadening under both driver and passenger side as well has the hood. Is there a good modern foam i can replace the old with ? or see if i can order the original stuff.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

eurosportgti said:


> Gap in the rear motor mount i was talking about..........
> 
> 
> whats wrong here?



You didn't bolt the motor mount bracket on before setting the engine down? Might have a bit to do with it.


----------



## eurosportgti (Jan 15, 2003)

TheBurninator said:


> You didn't bolt the motor mount bracket on before setting the engine down? Might have a bit to do with it.


No. The motor is supported by the engine hoist. There is no weight on the motor.


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

*i have a tranny issue*

So i was driving last night and I and some thing happens that now i can't select 2 nd 4th gear my boy told me this could be that I lost a lock washer that is on the shift linkage...common guys plz let me know thanks:beer::beer:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

G60Ron said:


> So i was driving last night and I and some thing happens that now i can't select 2 nd 4th gear my boy told me this could be that I lost a lock washer that is on the shift linkage...common guys plz let me know thanks:beer::beer:


Check your linkage....or...Broken Shifter fork.


----------



## suprakiller (Feb 3, 2011)

Gettin redy ta build corrado number two....anyone know of a way to lower other than springs or Coilovers, like Aftermarket spindle or something from another car as to not eff up geometry?


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

What size tires would you guys suggest for 17x7.5 wheels with et30?

Also if I decided to make the wheels 17x8 would the et still stay the same at 30 and would I have any rubbing issues? Wheel offsets always confused me.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Nope...If the wheels are currently an et 30 and you move out another 1/2" in lip size.....that equals a lower et by roughly 6.5mm. Making your offset about et24ish....

195/40/17 or 205/40/17 would be the optimum choices. 195 on an 8 is a little bit of stretch if that is what you are going for. 

Rubbing depends on Low and Rolled Fenders. :thumbup:


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## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

yeah so i thought my fuel pump was gone, but from what i can tell i just have an intermittent ecu power problem, that i think is some how caused by me changing my A/C relay and putting in a horn relay. The AC relay that i put in did look drastically different, and by that i mean it had like 2-4 more terminals. 

What is the best way to go about diagnosing this? Anything suggestions would help. 
(1993 Corrado VR6 OBD2 Swapped)

Cheers


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## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

suprakiller said:


> Gettin redy ta


 What the hell?


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

DUBZAK said:


> Nope...If the wheels are currently an et 30 and you move out another 1/2" in lip size.....that equals a lower et by roughly 6.5mm. Making your offset about et24ish....
> 
> 195/40/17 or 205/40/17 would be the optimum choices. 195 on an 8 is a little bit of stretch if that is what you are going for.
> 
> Rubbing depends on Low and Rolled Fenders. :thumbup:



Thanks. Looks like I'm staying at 7.5 for now. I don't want to be slammed but my fenders aren't rolled either. Plus new lips are more money than I want to spend right now. HRE wants like $200 a lip. 

I like the idea of the 205 series tire because it gives me a little more meat.


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## RadoRedHead (Jul 20, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html
> 
> Here is the fusebox, fuses, and relay diagram.


Thank you so much. I have a new 109 relay on its way. I hope that fixes my problem. Thanks again


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Did you have burnt pins on the relay?
Did you open the relay yo to see if burnt?


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## g60nw (Mar 30, 2010)

G60 and 1.8l crankshafts are the same right? Is there any place that sells them new? I am afraid the keyway on mine is messed up beyond repair. Looked at gap, mjm and a few others with no luck.


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## jardcorrado (Sep 13, 2009)

*vw corrado 1992 euro 2.0l16v 9a adjustable cam timing*

i got a new adjustable sprocket cam pulley, can you help me with the best position for my corrado the engine is original 95000 km and i just start mod on it, i putted a header, chip and improve air intake in the airbox, should retard or advance it and how much? i got original cams. thanks.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

jardcorrado said:


> i got a new adjustable sprocket cam pulley, can you help me with the best position for my corrado the engine is original 95000 km and i just start mod on it, i putted a header, chip and improve air intake in the airbox, should retard or advance it and how much? i got original cams. thanks.


Adjustments in timing need to be done with a timing light, especially on DOHC and depending on what you are doing with your motor will justify your timing needs :thumbup:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

16v TB question:

which 16v TB came with TPS (if any) that are flat on both sides like the G60?

Thought I'd try here before posting since there are some TB experts in here :laugh:............:beer:

edit: to be more precise, what sits between these flanges?


----------



## GreenEyedBandit (Sep 18, 2003)

I looked in the interior tech forum first before posting here- 

I'm changing out my grey carpet for black and it looks like the foam sound deadening needs replaced. I'm don't want to do dynamat because of cost and the carpet won't sit right. Where can I get new foam deadening material?


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## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

I have the car all put back together. Was able to find all vr6 parts. But now i have some new codes. 2111 engine speed sensor, 2113 camshaft position sensor. Are these related? Where should i start? Where is the engine speed sensor?


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## jardcorrado (Sep 13, 2009)

*Hi Sr Karman thanks for your replay, but i was refering to camshaft timing adjusted by th adjustable cam sprocket and not the ignition timing*



Sr. Karmann said:


> Adjustments in timing need to be done with a timing light, especially on DOHC and depending on what you are doing with your motor will justify your timing needs :thumbup:


Hi Sr Karman thanks for your replay, but i was refering about the camshaft timing adjusted by the adjustable cam sprocket pulley which has 10 degrees + and 10 - and not the ignition timing i heard this adjustment has to be done with dino but in Ecuador is not available , so maybe somebody here has done this and know for sure how many degree should be move retard o advence .....


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jardcorrado said:


> Hi Sr Karman thanks for your replay, but i was refering about the camshaft timing adjusted by the adjustable cam sprocket pulley which has 10 degrees + and 10 - and not the ignition timing i heard this adjustment has to be done with dino but in Ecuador is not available , so maybe somebody here has done this and know for sure how many degree should be move retard o advence .....


A dyno is helpful for this but can be adjusted by what feels like more power in the butt dyno...

So first off has the head been shaved at all? If it has then you will want to compensate for that. I can't remember exact numbers on it but for every so much you shave off the head you need to advance the timing a degree to get back to stock.

When you are adjusting cam timing you are essentially moving the power band and not actually increasing power. More of an adjustment of where the power comes in.

Every 8 degrees is one tooth on timing belt.

Play with it a bit and see where you feel the timing feels best at.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

02GTIFREESKIER said:


> I have the car all put back together. Was able to find all vr6 parts. But now i have some new codes. 2111 engine speed sensor, 2113 camshaft position sensor. Are these related? Where should i start? Where is the engine speed sensor?


engine speed sensor is on the block. it is the crank position sensor.

Are the codes a short to ground IE bad sensor or a fault code with them?

If they are a fault code then it means your engine timing is off. Both of those codes coming up at the same time makes me think that is the issue more than the sensor itself being bad.


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## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

Thanks for the reply burninator.

I took the cap off and the rotor and cap were filthy so I cleaned em and the cam code is resolved.

I took it for a drive today and the oil light and buzzer are turning on at 2500rpm every time. I changed the oil and filter because it was due. Used 10-40 synthetic. But it still does it. Which sender sends signal to the light? The gauge says that pressure is spot on, same as its always been. Is the gauge more reliable than the light or vis versa.

Does anyone have a pic of which color wires go to which sender? The temp and gauge work but there are four wires total.

Sorry for all the question but i took this all apart 6 months ago, and now im wondering if I plugged them back in wrong.


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## jardcorrado (Sep 13, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> A dyno is helpful for this but can be adjusted by what feels like more power in the butt dyno...
> 
> So first off has the head been shaved at all? If it has then you will want to compensate for that. I can't remember exact numbers on it but for every so much you shave off the head you need to advance the timing a degree to get back to stock.
> 
> ...


Thanks burninator for the information, do you know if i play with the adjustment 10degree +or- as my cams are original may i damage the valve could they touch the pistons what is the limit for adjustment 10+and 10- for original cams ? i'm looking best choice for 1/4mille race set up...


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## DubCorrado (Aug 7, 2009)

*Opened up my door card and saw this cut wire*

So I own a 1990 Corrado G60 with no modifcations on it. I believe im the 3rd owner so some of the PO's changed a few things on it. So when I opened up my drivers side door card I saw that this wire had been cut. Im not really sure what it does since all the electronics on that side are all working. Both windows for driver and passenger side, the mirror adjustments for both mirrors, and the speakers. Im not really sure what these wires are used for so I was hoping I could get your guys info on it. Thanks in advance










__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content


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## newbdubber (Apr 22, 2011)

*Auto Trans Trouble*

Purchased a 1991 corrado G60 automatic a few months ago for $1300 and wasnt really excited about the auto tranny but, couldnt pass on the price.:screwy: Anyhow it has recenlty had some issues with wanting to start out in 3rd gear. I can't get it to manually shift either but, if I turn the motor off while coasting down the road and turn it back on it shifts just fine Sometimes when i do this the speedo will stop working for awhile then come back on. Looking for a little help or maybe a corrado expert in the area. I am located in Tacoma, WA. Thanks in advance!


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

Can a VR6 shift weight be used with a G60? If so, what are the benifits?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

02GTIFREESKIER said:


> I have the car all put back together. Was able to find all vr6 parts. But now i have some new codes. 2111 engine speed sensor, 2113 camshaft position sensor. Are these related? Where should i start? Where is the engine speed sensor?


If the car was off the crank sensor code is normal and will go away once started. 
If the cam position code is still present, replace that sensor if coilpack motor. 
:thumbup:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

turtledub said:


> Can a VR6 shift weight be used with a G60? If so, what are the benifits?


i WOULD SAY NO, SINCE THE CONFIGURATION IS SOMEWHAT DIFFERENT, sorry, caps...


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## XxxcorradoxxX (Mar 31, 2011)

*spoiler*

ok im really sorry for posting this but i have read through a bunch of spoiler forums and i cant seem to locate the fuse for my rear spoiler im trying to troubleshoot it and i have a bently which really isnt helpful on this subject other than a wire schematic and a how to remove and install....


i just want to fix this thing :banghead:


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## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

Thats good news, the engine was off when i checked codes. But its a dizzy vr6 so i think the only cam sensor is the hall sensor under the cap.



DUBZAK said:


> If the car was off the crank sensor code is normal and will go away once started.
> If the cam position code is still present, replace that sensor if coilpack motor.
> :thumbup:


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

Sr. Karmann said:


> i WOULD SAY NO, SINCE THE CONFIGURATION IS SOMEWHAT DIFFERENT, sorry, caps...


*hides in a corner*

Please forgive me...I so sorry....it won't happen again.

Thank you for the heads up. I had found some thread where someone asked the question and it was never answered.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

02GTIFREESKIER said:


> Thats good news, the engine was off when i checked codes. But its a dizzy vr6 so i think the only cam sensor is the hall sensor under the cap.


Indeed a dizzy cars is the hall sender on the distributor. Start the car and scan it to make absolutely sure the Crank Sensor code goes away.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

turtledub said:


> *hides in a corner*
> 
> Please forgive me...I so sorry....it won't happen again.
> 
> Thank you for the heads up. I had found some thread where someone asked the question and it was never answered.




No need to be sorry  Also, you have to excuse the caps lock, I do CAD work and didn't feel like re-typing :beer:


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## GreenEyedBandit (Sep 18, 2003)

Okay guys I need some help identifying some stuff on my G60. ANY help would be appreciated.

Driver's side under seat. The plug is for the heated seats. What's the other wires for?


Driver's side floorboard, there's this vacuum line that runs thru the firewall and doesn't connect to anything. Where is this supposed to connect?


Obviously I don't have a stereo yet and I know the wires on the left are for speakers but what are the other wires on the right?


And lastly is this. The piping on the left is cut and I don't know what this line is for and how/where to re-run it. Then this bracket is all bent up and I can't figure out what it's for and what bolts I need to order to put it back together once I bend it back to shape.



I know I'm asking a bit but I really need some help. 

THANKS!


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## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

DubCorrado said:


> So I own a 1990 Corrado G60 with no modifcations on it. I believe im the 3rd owner so some of the PO's changed a few things on it. So when I opened up my drivers side door card I saw that this wire had been cut. Im not really sure what it does since all the electronics on that side are all working. Both windows for driver and passenger side, the mirror adjustments for both mirrors, and the speakers. Im not really sure what these wires are used for so I was hoping I could get your guys info on it. Thanks in advance


 I think that goes to the door latch switch that tells you if your door is ajar.


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## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

GreenEyedBandit said:


> Okay guys I need some help identifying some stuff on my G60. ANY help would be appreciated.
> 
> I know I'm asking a bit but I really need some help.
> 
> THANKS!



*Seatbelt warning light switch*



*drivers door central locking*


*Stereo power, ground, lighting circut, akitiv amp power, and one of them provides a speed signal to adjust the volume based on vehicle speed*


*This pic is hard to make out. the top left bit looks like the clutch slave bleeder, I can't see anything in the rest of the pic.*


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

XxxcorradoxxX said:


> ok im really sorry for posting this but i have read through a bunch of spoiler forums and i cant seem to locate the fuse for my rear spoiler im trying to troubleshoot it and i have a bently which really isnt helpful on this subject other than a wire schematic and a how to remove and install....
> 
> 
> i just want to fix this thing :banghead:


fuse #16 it is a 15 amp fuse


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jardcorrado said:


> Thanks burninator for the information, do you know if i play with the adjustment 10degree +or- as my cams are original may i damage the valve could they touch the pistons what is the limit for adjustment 10+and 10- for original cams ? i'm looking best choice for 1/4mille race set up...


There is no point IMO in going 10 degrees since 8 degrees is roughly one tooth on the timing belt. 

And you will probably want to tune the power band for higher up in the RPM range since this is a drag car.


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## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

Edit: I figured out the wiring thanks to izzo.


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## XxxcorradoxxX (Mar 31, 2011)

*thanks*

hey guys thanks i figuered out what was wrong with the spoiler and im gonna be needing a new control unit 535 919 845 A but when i called a parts store they said it changed to 535 919 845 B and ideas?


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## DubCorrado (Aug 7, 2009)

NoCYet said:


> I think that goes to the door latch switch that tells you if your door is ajar.


Alright thank you sir I appreciate the help


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

XxxcorradoxxX said:


> hey guys thanks i figuered out what was wrong with the spoiler and im gonna be needing a new control unit 535 919 845 A but when i called a parts store they said it changed to 535 919 845 B and ideas?


it is just a part number revision.


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## pug_nasty (Jun 17, 2009)

Hey guys. Im finally getting my g60 back together, but can't seem to find where this goes. PO left me with a lot of bad wiring. As you can see in the pic its from the bundle of wires next to the battery.
Thx guys!


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

pug_nasty said:


> Hey guys. Im finally getting my g60 back together, but can't seem to find where this goes. PO left me with a lot of bad wiring. As you can see in the pic its from the bundle of wires next to the battery.
> Thx guys!


AC Compressor wiring


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## pug_nasty (Jun 17, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> AC Compressor wiring


Thank you sir! :beer:


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## wed3k (Feb 22, 2010)

wed3k said:


> probably didnt support it by the inner race when putting the hub on.
> 
> 
> in regards to my project corrado, why is the brake switch 1 inch away from the pedal? the brake booster was out of the car when i received it but i dont think i really messed with the pedals.
> ...


 figured it out, this is the regular length and my other corrado is this long. Rockauto had them forsale for 400 dollars each.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

wed3k said:


> figured it out, this is the regular length and my other corrado is this long. Rockauto had them forsale for 400 dollars each.


I did a non-abs swap on a 93 and I plastic welded a plastic nut on the end, worked perfect :thumbup:


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## Hemingway'sToe (Feb 13, 2009)

Alright Experts, school me up on spark plugs and correct gap for FI.

I'm putting together a 9A 16v G60 and it's time to put plugs in. I'm running ~9.2:1 CR with a ported G60 (breaking in with a 78mm pulley and moving to 68mm eventually). 

I know the PG G60 needs the stock plug, and am assuming is should be the one for the 16V too. Bad assumption? Should I gap it the same or since my CR is higher than the PG should I a gap them differently. 

I'm thinking as the CR goes up (including FI) the colder plugs are better to avoid pre-det. Also because higher octane is used a higher energy spark is probably needed, so a little bigger gap?

Is my thinking just back-ass-ward? Clue me in.


----------



## Asian Andy (Mar 21, 2011)

Got my first Rado this past Friday and got it started. has about 120K miles on it. No SC rebuild I know of. Pretty bone stock thankfully. This car has been sitting in a garage since 2006. Everything is there and still works like a charm even the spoiler, leads me to believe this car was well cared for. Just did a complete tune-up. I have some pretty bad knock sounds coming from the 2nd cylinder where the knock sensor is. I have a new knock sensor coming bc it looks pretty beat. Im hoping its bad timing or sticky lifters, but i fear the worst... bad rod bearings. The cars oil pressure light never comes on, and the knock is at all rpms and sometimes goes away for brief moments. Any ideas what this is coming from?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Hemingway'sToe said:


> Alright Experts, school me up on spark plugs and correct gap for FI.
> 
> I'm putting together a 9A 16v G60 and it's time to put plugs in. I'm running ~9.2:1 CR with a ported G60 (breaking in with a 78mm pulley and moving to 68mm eventually).
> 
> ...


I did a bit of research on this and from what I have read in the 16vt thread, folks are running regular plugs, nothing special, NGK or Bosch Platinum have been the most common. I also spoke with a few folks and said the gap should come right on the plug as to not even mess with it. I did however check my gap and they were all .020 



Asian Andy said:


> Got my first Rado this past Friday and got it started. has about 120K miles on it. No SC rebuild I know of. Pretty bone stock thankfully. This car has been sitting in a garage since 2006. Everything is there and still works like a charm even the spoiler, leads me to believe this car was well cared for. Just did a complete tune-up. I have some pretty bad knock sounds coming from the 2nd cylinder where the knock sensor is. I have a new knock sensor coming bc it looks pretty beat. Im hoping its bad timing or sticky lifters, but i fear the worst... bad rod bearings. The cars oil pressure light never comes on, and the knock is at all rpms and sometimes goes away for brief moments. Any ideas what this is coming from?


I've had a similar sound and ended up being an alternator bearing, pull your belts and feel the pulleys for play, or get a stethoscope, good find on the C BTW :thumbup:


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## XxxcorradoxxX (Mar 31, 2011)

ok so i figuered out what was wrong with my spoiler... the wires in the control module are bad...does anyone have a spare?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Hemingway'sToe said:


> Alright Experts, school me up on spark plugs and correct gap for FI.
> 
> I'm putting together a 9A 16v G60 and it's time to put plugs in. I'm running ~9.2:1 CR with a ported G60 (breaking in with a 78mm pulley and moving to 68mm eventually).
> 
> ...


As chad said you should be fine with the stock 16v plugs. They are a pretty cold plug anyways. FI VR6 guys use them.

Keep the stock gap. If you start getting stutter issues not related to pre-det then you will want to gap it larger or go with a hotter coil.



XxxcorradoxxX said:


> ok so i figuered out what was wrong with my spoiler... the wires in the control module are bad...does anyone have a spare?


Check clasifieds


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## Hemingway'sToe (Feb 13, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> As chad said you should be fine with the stock 16v plugs. They are a pretty cold plug anyways. FI VR6 guys use them.
> 
> Keep the stock gap. If you start getting stutter issues not related to pre-det then you will want to gap it larger or go with a hotter coil.


I have set of G60 plugs sitting around that I never got into the PG; these should be fine as well I expect? 

D


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## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

I Haven't found anywhere to buy Corrado Interior floor mats. Anybody got a supplier in mind?
Thanks 
TLJ


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Hemingway'sToe said:


> I have set of G60 plugs sitting around that I never got into the PG; these should be fine as well I expect?
> 
> D


It's been awhile since I've seen any G60 plugs, but aren't they too big to fit? I personally wouldn't use them which is why I gave the new ones I had away with my motor fo freeeeeeee



TheLateJetta said:


> I Haven't found anywhere to buy Corrado Interior floor mats. Anybody got a supplier in mind?
> Thanks
> TLJ


I hate to do this, but do a search in the Corrado forum or Google, there was a thread floating around not too long ago :thumbup:


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## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I hate to do this, but do a search in the Corrado forum or Google, there was a thread floating around not too long ago :thumbup:


 No problem. I Google'd but didn't word it to be vortex including, shame on me.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheLateJetta said:


> No problem. I Google'd but didn't word it to be vortex including, shame on me.


No worries, you came to the right thread for the question :thumbup:


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Hemingway'sToe said:


> I have set of G60 plugs sitting around that I never got into the PG; these should be fine as well I expect?
> 
> D


They wont fit. 8V has a different size plug


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## Hemingway'sToe (Feb 13, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> They wont fit. 8V has a different size plug


Guess I would have figured that out for myself pretty quick


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Hemingway'sToe said:


> Guess I would have figured that out for myself pretty quick


Most likely. Hows the project coming along?


----------



## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

TheBurninator said:


> They wont fit. 8V has a different size plug


And save those plugs if they are really for a G60 and in good condition. I remeber I bought a set a while ago and they were pretty pricey.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

NYCGTM said:


> And save those plugs if they are really for a G60 and in good condition. I remeber I bought a set a while ago and they were pretty pricey.


+/-$15 ea :facepalm:


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## Hemingway'sToe (Feb 13, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Most likely. Hows the project coming along?


End is in sight, but still have lots of little things to do:

1. Flywheel is getting resurfaced today
2. Paint trans
3. Mock up alt and AC compressor to get accessory belt length and final routing
4. Install Distributor, modify G60 throttle bypass linkage for clearance
5. Drill and tap block for charger oil return
6. Bolt up headers (yep, they're raceland) w/ wideband
7. Install Sach VR6 clutch and bolt up tranny.
8. Drop that bitch in.
9. Start the wire re-route. and connect all coolant/ gas lines
10. Add fluids, cross fingers and fire it up.

I think about 2 - 4 full days of tinkering, which with my schedule might mean another month :thumbdown:


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## Hemingway'sToe (Feb 13, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> +/-$15 ea :facepalm:


Yeah, they'll be in the classifieds in short order. I also have a brand new PG timing belt from the same "I'll do a full tune-up order"


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## GreenEyedBandit (Sep 18, 2003)

Couple new question, both pertaining to a 90 G60-

1. What is the purpose of the two relays (#59) behind the rear passenger card?

2. The car came from Canada with e-codes and they are not spliced in, they are part of the factory harness. Where would the factory relay for these be located, I have a print out from A2resource of fuses and relays but everything listed on that seems to be working. Then again it only shows for regular headlights.

A big thanks for anyone who can assist!!!


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

GreenEyedBandit said:


> 2. The car came from Canada with e-codes and they are not spliced in, they are part of the factory harness. Where would the factory relay for these be located, I have a print out from A2resource of fuses and relays but everything listed on that seems to be working. Then again it only shows for regular headlights.


The European Cars came with a different headlight harness. Canadian cars did not come with a relayed harness OEM. Most of us with a brain in the US (well all of NA for that matter) custom make a relayed harness for their lights. If your car has e-codes and the PO did not relay them, you will need to do that on your own. search vortex for the schematics on how to do this. There were a few euro relay harness floating around the classifieds a while back as well if you'd like to take the easy way out.


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## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

GreenEyedBandit said:


> 1. What is the purpose of the two relays (#59) behind the rear passenger card?


heated seated (on pass side)

auto seat belts (on drivers side)


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## GreenEyedBandit (Sep 18, 2003)

cyberstasi said:


> The European Cars came with a different headlight harness. Canadian cars did not come with a relayed harness OEM. Most of us with a brain in the US (well all of NA for that matter) custom make a relayed harness for their lights. If your car has e-codes and the PO did not relay them, you will need to do that on your own. search vortex for the schematics on how to do this. There were a few euro relay harness floating around the classifieds a while back as well if you'd like to take the easy way out.


Okay, I searched on here and on the Corrado Club of Canada but I haven't found the plug & play harness adapters I read some place is selling online. :banghead:



lmurray said:


> heated seated (on pass side)
> 
> auto seat belts (on drivers side)


Thanks! I was wondering where the heated seats relay was. I have euro seat belts so the only thing on the drivers side is the window controller unit P


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## Dustydelux (Apr 17, 2011)

*G lader Rebuild.*

Need to rebuild my G lader, just bought my car a few weeks ago contemplating weather to rebuild it my self or send it some where, were would a good place be to send it ? and also if i do rebuild were is a good place to buy a full rebuild kit from.


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## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

What is the dimensions of the cotter pin for the rear axle wheel bearings on the. I need to buy some from Menards or wherever I can find um.

Edit: found the answer mahselfz.
For future reference. 

4X32mm


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## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

Awesome thread here. :heart:

A request for those with problems that are fixed from the expert advice or from other means, please come back and post about how things worked out. It will help others learn from your experience. :thumbup:


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## Rhino74 (May 31, 2010)

okay huge noob question here.. I had a mk3 before my corrado and I had e-codes. My question is, do some corrados come stock with e-codes? if so, does mine have them?


IMG_0533 by driverx15, on Flickr



P.S i know the pass. side headlight is saggy, and I know that my grille needs to go. Will be badgeless soon.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Rhino74 said:


> okay huge noob question here.. I had a mk3 before my corrado and I had e-codes. My question is, do some corrados come stock with e-codes? if so, does mine have them?
> 
> P.S i know the pass. side headlight is saggy, and I know that my grille needs to go. Will be badgeless soon.


those are e-codes, I don't recall if Canada came stock with them, but we in the US didn't get them


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## Rhino74 (May 31, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> those are e-codes, I don't recall if Canada came stock with them, but we in the US didn't get them


Thanks! It would make sense if they were installed by a previous owner because the one front fog is cracked, and the valence right above the front lip is cracked. So I'm assuming that its had lots of highway mileage. May explain the saggy right headlight, possibly wasnt adjusted correctly before the p/o finished putting it in.


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

So, for oil sensors - I have two new ones from GAP that I plan to swap in to see if it'll fix my oil buzzer issue. What kind of wrench/socket can fit in there on a G60 without removing anything/much? I'm at school and none of the tools I have with me fit in there. Regular 15/16 wrench? 

Also have a question about an unconnected wire, posting pic from my phone in 1 minute...


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

elijah- said:


> So, for oil sensors - I have two new ones from GAP that I plan to swap in to see if it'll fix my oil buzzer issue. What kind of wrench/socket can fit in there on a G60 without removing anything/much? I'm at school and none of the tools I have with me fit in there. Regular 15/16 wrench?
> 
> Also have a question about an unconnected wire, posting pic from my phone in 1 minute...


This blue wire that I'm holding up... it's on the same harness as the wire connected to the lower oil sensor.

Sorry for the fuzziness, it was ridiculously bright and hard to hold my phone with one hand.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

elijah- said:


> This blue wire that I'm holding up... it's on the same harness as the wire connected to the lower oil sensor.
> 
> Sorry for the fuzziness, it was ridiculously bright and hard to hold my phone with one hand.


Unfortunately those sensors are in a tight spot, do what you have to for replacement...

That wire goes to a tab on the left side of the distributor body


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Unfortunately those sensors are in a tight spot, do what you have to for replacement...
> 
> That wire goes to a tab on the left side of the distributor body


Thanks... Any idea what the purpose of that wire is? Doesn't seem like it has been causing any problems?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

elijah- said:


> Thanks... Any idea what the purpose of that wire is? Doesn't seem like it has been causing any problems?


I think it's a ground of some sort, but I haven't personally traced the wire in the Bentley electrical diagrams


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I think it's a ground of some sort, but I haven't personally traced the wire in the Bentley electrical diagrams


It is a shielding wire. Ground essentially.


----------



## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

I don't think that blue wire is a ground. I think thats an extra wire for the optional oil pressure gauge. It's been disconnected in both of my cars.

Lloyd


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

lmurray said:


> I don't think that blue wire is a ground. I think thats an extra wire for the optional oil pressure gauge. It's been disconnected in both of my cars.
> 
> Lloyd


I'd have to personally say it doesn't exist in my C anymore, but then again, neither does the digi or dizzy


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

lmurray said:


> I don't think that blue wire is a ground. I think thats an extra wire for the optional oil pressure gauge. It's been disconnected in both of my cars.
> 
> Lloyd


I thought we were talking about the terminal on the side of the dizzy


----------



## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

What causes the crankcase to make oil? Its not making alot of oil but everytime i check it its a little high. Then when i run it the oil gets really milky but I think its straight water, it doesnt taste or smell like coolant. Could this be caused by the pcv system not venting condensation out? Its been pretty cold and wet here in utah.

Also not sure if its related but the coolant bottle stays pressurized for days.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

02GTIFREESKIER said:


> What causes the crankcase to make oil? Its not making alot of oil but everytime i check it its a little high. Then when i run it the oil gets really milky but I think its straight water, it doesnt taste or smell like coolant. Could this be caused by the pcv system not venting condensation out? Its been pretty cold and wet here in utah.
> 
> Also not sure if its related but the coolant bottle stays pressurized for days.


headgasket for 500 trebek!

get the headgasket test kit for the coolant. It will tell you right away but everything you are describing is a bad headgasket.


----------



## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

TheBurninator said:


> headgasket for 500 trebek!
> 
> get the headgasket test kit for the coolant. It will tell you right away but everything you are describing is a bad headgasket.


Thats kind of the way I was leaning, but it runs well and there is no oil in coolant. What is the head gasket test kit? I have a leak down tester and compression tester.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

02GTIFREESKIER said:


> Thats kind of the way I was leaning, but it runs well and there is no oil in coolant. What is the head gasket test kit? I have a leak down tester and compression tester.


It is a chemical test for the coolant. Tests it to see if you are leaking combustion gases into the coolant system.

Even with a bit more rain and such your oil shouldn't get milky like you are talking about.


----------



## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

MMkk, im not goona bother. The last thing that happpend before I parked it was the crack pipe blowing up it got really damn hot. 330*f oil temp iirc. Ill just trailer it to work and replace the head gasket next weekend. Owning a corrado feels like a having a second job that takes moneys instead of paying moneys. 

Fingers crossed nothing is warped.


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## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

Swapped out the high (1.4?) bar sensor. It's still beeping at me, but the range seems to be smaller now. It's more like 21-2200, if I rev it above that it shuts off, drop it below it stays on, but it now only turns on around 2100, before it would turn on almost anywhere between 15-2400 or so. Next up is the .25bar sensor, might try to get at it tomorrow but I don't know if I'll be able to at school.


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## Alexioooo (Apr 3, 2011)

*corrado vr6 badges*

1992 Corrado VR6 was debadged on the rear but since its a clip-on, it left holes/spaces... how can I fill them and where can i find an OEM corrado vr6 badge for the front? i know they are hard to get but there has to be somewhere (or something) thanks in advance


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

can you swap VR6 e-code glass onto a set of G60 headlight bodies?


----------



## eurosportgti (Jan 15, 2003)

what would u guys reccomend for holding on side skirts?


----------



## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

Weld - Grind - Bondo - Sand - Paint.



Alexioooo said:


> 1992 Corrado VR6 was debadged on the rear but since its a clip-on, it left holes/spaces... how can I fill them ?


----------



## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

Yes.



eurobred said:


> can you swap VR6 e-code glass onto a set of G60 headlight bodies?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Alexioooo said:


> 1992 Corrado VR6 was debadged on the rear but since its a clip-on, it left holes/spaces... how can I fill them and where can i find an OEM corrado vr6 badge for the front? i know they are hard to get but there has to be somewhere (or something) thanks in advance


If you don't have access to a welder, you can always knock the hole in a bit and use a metal filler, the body shop I had my Karmann Ghia done used this method and held up VERY well :thumbup:



eurobred said:


> can you swap VR6 e-code glass onto a set of G60 headlight bodies?


Like lmurray said, but you need the bezels too :thumbup:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Few G60 related questions:

1) How exactly does the fan after-run thermo switch works? Since there no wiring on it  Is the metal "tab" i see on the switch suppose to touch the valve cover so it reads temperature that way???

2) Does it matter if one of the 2 bolts on the mounting bracket that hold/connect the inlet manifold with the valve cover "stripped off" and won't tighten? Will I get some vac.leak from there? 

TIA :beer:
Nick


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Like lmurray said, but you need the bezels too :thumbup:


the bezels? meaning what? the body?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

eurobred said:


> the bezels? meaning what? the body?


Surrounding black plastic trim pieces ie. bezels


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Few G60 related questions:
> 
> 1) How exactly does the fan after-run thermo switch works? Since there no wiring on it  Is the metal "tab" i see on the switch suppose to touch the valve cover so it reads temperature that way???
> 
> ...


1. The one that mounts near your intake mani, bolted to the left bracket, if so, ditch it

2. it's cool if it is just the bracket bolt


----------



## mattalex123 (Oct 16, 2010)

*oil pressure*

this is for a 93

when i turn my car onto accessory, the oil pressure gauge spikes up and stays at max, same story when I turn the car on, when its off accessory it will drop down to 0. What should i start looking at first?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

sender on the oil filter housing. :beer:


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

GreenEyedBandit said:


> Okay, I searched on here and on the Corrado Club of Canada but I haven't found the plug & play harness adapters I read some place is selling online. :banghead:


check http://www.eurowires.net/


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## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

Replaced the lower .25 bar oil pressure sensor today and drove around for 30 mins or so. No beeping, seems like it fixed the problem!

It was really easy to break loose, I have a feeling the sensor might not have been tight enough


----------



## mattalex123 (Oct 16, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> sender on the oil filter housing. :beer:



are you talking about the oil pressure sensors? which one should i replace first, or both? the .3 bar or the 1.4 bar switch?


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

mattalex123 said:


> are you talking about the oil pressure sensors? which one should i replace first, or both? the .3 bar or the 1.4 bar switch?


The one on the filter housing is the .3, if that's what he's referring to


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> 1. The one that mounts near your intake mani, bolted to the left bracket, if so, ditch it
> 
> 2. it's cool if it is just the bracket bolt


Always Chad to the rescue :laugh: Thanks man 

Ditching it but you know how it works? Is the way I wrote above?

In not the bolt actually, its the hole, am I ok or screwed?


----------



## NW A4 (Jan 12, 2011)

Anyone ever done complete new brake lines? Where to buy and how to bend?

Have some rust rot on the car and some rust underneath, no rot on the lines themselves, but would love to replace them for added security. :thumbup:


----------



## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

Did most of them on my car. You need tubing that has 3/16", bubble flare, metric (european) threads. Tubing is available at most autoparts stores (autozone/advanced auto). You buy it in straight sections. Then get a hand held tubing bending (got mine at harbor freight) and bend away. It's not hard.

Lloyd


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Always Chad to the rescue :laugh: Thanks man
> 
> Ditching it but you know how it works? Is the way I wrote above?
> 
> In not the bolt actually, its the hole, am I ok or screwed?


 Don't know how it works, I ditched mine, before I knew and it didn't affect anything

About the hole, it should be fine, but can you post a pic so we are on the same page?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Don't know how it works, I ditched mine, before I knew and it didn't affect anything


:sly:.........:laugh:




Sr. Karmann said:


> About the hole, it should be fine, but can you post a pic so we are on the same page?












Bolt on bracket #22, the lower bolt where it connects with the cam cover...


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> :sly:.........:laugh:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ya, no worries on that, it'll be fine :thumbup:


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

real quick since my bently is at another location. eaisest way to remove the rear bumper? (like the whole kaboodle at once)


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Ya, no worries on that, it'll be fine :thumbup:


Thanks man :thumbup: 
:beer: :beer: :beer:


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## NW A4 (Jan 12, 2011)

lmurray said:


> Did most of them on my car. You need tubing that has 3/16", bubble flare, metric (european) threads. Tubing is available at most autoparts stores (autozone/advanced auto). You buy it in straight sections. Then get a hand held tubing bending (got mine at harbor freight) and bend away. It's not hard.
> 
> Lloyd


Thanks man! It really is ask the experts. 

Did you pull yours and use it as a template or bend what is easiest?


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Surrounding black plastic trim pieces ie. bezels


ok got it, i thought the G60 headlights could just accept the VR6 glass.

thanks!


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## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

NW A4 said:


> Thanks man! It really is ask the experts.
> 
> Did you pull yours and use it as a template or bend what is easiest?


Yes, pull off the section you want to replace. Measure, then buy the size you need. Then on a bench, bend it to the exact shape. When installing, take the benders with you in case you need to tweak them as you put them on. Resist the urge to bend them with your hands (they'll kink), use the tool.


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## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

Crawl under the car. There's two holes to put a socket through to pull the bolts out of the mounting brackets (per side). I think it's a 17 mm, but don't quote me on it. Once they are off, just slide the bumper out.



cyberstasi said:


> real quick since my bently is at another location. eaisest way to remove the rear bumper? (like the whole kaboodle at once)


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

lmurray said:


> Yes, pull off the section you want to replace. Measure, then buy the size you need. Then on a bench, bend it to the exact shape. When installing, take the benders with you in case you need to tweak them as you put them on. Resist the urge to bend them with your hands (they'll kink), use the tool.


yes, altho, I measured and routed where "I" wanted


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## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

I've got a bit of steering shake around the 40-55ish MPH range, and it makes a slight knocking sound. It has done this since I bought the Corrado, alignment didn't change anything, brakes/rotors seem fine... What should I check next?


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

elijah- said:


> I've got a bit of steering shake around the 40-55ish MPH range, and when it makes a slight knocking sound. It has done this since I bought the Corrado, alignment didn't change anything, brakes/rotors seem fine... What should I check next?


control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar end links, and suspension mounts. If there was anything wonky whoever did your alignment 'should' have mentioned it... since if one of those is bad it pretty much renders an alignment kinda useless.


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## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

Yeah if an alignment shop didnt catch it, I would venture a guess that you need to get the wheels balanced.

I stopped to get new tires before driving to boise last year. And the car would shake and knock between 40-45mph. Les shwabb(sp?) claims that the tire slipped on the bead, thus putting it off balance. I think they just didnt bother to balance it, because they were closing.

I think that the shaking would happen more often than just between those speeds if it were control arms.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

mattalex123 said:


> are you talking about the oil pressure sensors? which one should i replace first, or both? the .3 bar or the 1.4 bar switch?





elijah- said:


> The one on the filter housing is the .3, if that's what he's referring to


No I am referring to the HUGE SENDING UNIT on the oil filter stand (VR6 Corrado Specific) that isn't a pressure switch but rather a sending unit.


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## drkreign (Sep 2, 2005)

I'm installing a wideband O2 onto my corrado but need to know which wire goes to the ECU so I can feed the ecu a narrowband signal from my wideband setup. Here's a picture of what I have, the harness is from a 95 OBD1 vr6 passat (thus the different looking plug).


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

drkreign said:


> I'm installing a wideband O2 onto my corrado but need to know which wire goes to the ECU so I can feed the ecu a narrowband signal from my wideband setup. Here's a picture of what I have, the harness is from a 95 OBD1 vr6 passat (thus the different looking plug).


The only way to do what you are talking is with a wideband controller that supports narrow band emulation.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> The only way to do what you are talking is with a wideband controller that supports narrow band emulation.


Which is what he said he was doing 

DK, you need a wiring schematic from the car it came out of, Passat, right? What colors are on the sensor side of the OE plug?

The reason I say this is because I was doing some comparison in the diagrams for 90 & 91 and noticed a different colored signal wire between the two different years


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Which is what he said he was doing
> 
> DK, you need a wiring schematic from the car it came out of, Passat, right? What colors are on the sensor side of the OE plug?
> 
> The reason I say this is because I was doing some comparison in the diagrams for 90 & 91 and noticed a different colored signal wire between the two different years


The 90' one is actually a misprint in the bentley as Dimitri and I found out after a few hours on the phone last year.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> The 90' one is actually a misprint in the bentley as Dimitri and I found out after a few hours on the phone last year.


Oh NO, not a misprint in the Bentley :laugh:


----------



## eurosportgti (Jan 15, 2003)

Im still stuck on my motor mount not fitting right. I can take it out and shave it down to make it fit. Do i have the wrong mount? Is there a difference between passat and say jetta mounts?


----------



## drkreign (Sep 2, 2005)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Which is what he said he was doing
> 
> DK, you need a wiring schematic from the car it came out of, Passat, right? What colors are on the sensor side of the OE plug?
> 
> The reason I say this is because I was doing some comparison in the diagrams for 90 & 91 and noticed a different colored signal wire between the two different years



Im not sure what the o2 side looked like, I bought the body harness from benzivr6 on here. All I know is its a 95 vr6 passat manual harness.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

drkreign said:


> Im not sure what the o2 side looked like, I bought the body harness from benzivr6 on here. All I know is its a 95 vr6 passat manual harness.


I hate to say this, but you need the Passat diagram or simply follow the wire to the ECU. You may be able to eliminate the leads by process of elimination tho, if you have your battery hooked up and can check voltage on a few of the wires and then continuity to ground


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

eurosportgti said:


> Im still stuck on my motor mount not fitting right. I can take it out and shave it down to make it fit. Do i have the wrong mount? Is there a difference between passat and say jetta mounts?


All Passat VR6, Mk3, and Corrado brackets are the same. There is a difference between automatic and manual brackets though.

What I want to know is why didn't you bolt it to the block before dropping the engine in?


----------



## eurosportgti (Jan 15, 2003)

TheBurninator said:


> All Passat VR6, Mk3, and Corrado brackets are the same. There is a difference between automatic and manual brackets though.
> 
> What I want to know is why didn't you bolt it to the block before dropping the engine in?


I did bolt it on first. 3 out of the 4 points have bolts in them just the one has the gap. Could this be a auto bracket?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

eurosportgti said:


> I did bolt it on first. 3 out of the 4 points have bolts in them just the one has the gap. Could this be a auto bracket?


very possible. But not sure the difference in the auto bracket.


----------



## NW A4 (Jan 12, 2011)

Very confused as of now. I am currently looking for a donor car for my 93 Corrado VR6.It threw a rod and engine at least bottom half needs to be replaced. But I would love to go OBD2 in the same process. I am currently looking at a 95 passat since the harnesses are closely the same (have been reading quite a lot on this.)

The problem is I am not familiar if the 95 is OBD2 or not. I have ready tjhat the 95 to early 96 are hit or miss. Is there any more info. Has it been determined to a build date?


nevermind, finally found the sticky I was looking for in the 12v vr6 forums


----------



## madonion (May 1, 2007)

I have a set of 15x6.5 et43 vr6 canadian wheels that I want to put on. The car is a g60 with 5 lug conversion. Thinking about buying ecs 20mm spacers. I would end up with an offset of 23. Do you think it would be ok for a 15x6.5" wheels ? I'm also concerned about the warning ECS puts on there spacers "Rear fitment on MK3 VW's is not possible due to the extra long hub on the rear rotor however front fitment is fine." Will theses spacers fit on the rear axle of a corrado ?

Thx


----------



## wed3k (Feb 22, 2010)

NW A4 said:


> Very confused as of now. I am currently looking for a donor car for my 93 Corrado VR6.It threw a rod and engine at least bottom half needs to be replaced. But I would love to go OBD2 in the same process. I am currently looking at a 95 passat since the harnesses are closely the same (have been reading quite a lot on this.)
> 
> The problem is I am not familiar if the 95 is OBD2 or not. I have ready tjhat the 95 to early 96 are hit or miss. Is there any more info. Has it been determined to a build date?
> 
> ...


im not sure if they transferred oiver the harnesses or not but if you look under the dash, you may be able to find a OBD2 connector. I know some cars are still equipped with a obd2 connector but still has no function. (found that out trying to diagnose a 95 mazda with a obd2 scanner, no comm)


----------



## wed3k (Feb 22, 2010)

NW A4 said:


> Very confused as of now. I am currently looking for a donor car for my 93 Corrado VR6.It threw a rod and engine at least bottom half needs to be replaced. But I would love to go OBD2 in the same process. I am currently looking at a 95 passat since the harnesses are closely the same (have been reading quite a lot on this.)
> 
> The problem is I am not familiar if the 95 is OBD2 or not. I have ready tjhat the 95 to early 96 are hit or miss. Is there any more info. Has it been determined to a build date?
> 
> ...


im not sure if they transferred oiver the harnesses or not but if you look under the dash, you may be able to find a OBD2 connector. I know some cars are still equipped with a obd2 connector but still has no function. (found that out trying to diagnose a 95 mazda with a obd2 scanner, no comm)

Oh, and for you g60 owners, if the engine begins to make a whistling and bov noise, check the idle air screw. it sounded really cool but i thought my glader was going out but boost leaks are bad.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

NW A4 said:


> Very confused as of now. I am currently looking for a donor car for my 93 Corrado VR6.It threw a rod and engine at least bottom half needs to be replaced. But I would love to go OBD2 in the same process. I am currently looking at a 95 passat since the harnesses are closely the same (have been reading quite a lot on this.)
> 
> The problem is I am not familiar if the 95 is OBD2 or not. I have ready tjhat the 95 to early 96 are hit or miss. Is there any more info. Has it been determined to a build date?
> 
> ...


95 is OBDI but it may have an OBDII plug as 94 Corrados got an OBDII plug and were still OBDI.

Check the ECU numbers if you want to be sure.



madonion said:


> I have a set of 15x6.5 et43 vr6 canadian wheels that I want to put on. The car is a g60 with 5 lug conversion. Thinking about buying ecs 20mm spacers. I would end up with an offset of 23. Do you think it would be ok for a 15x6.5" wheels ? I'm also concerned about the warning ECS puts on there spacers "Rear fitment on MK3 VW's is not possible due to the extra long hub on the rear rotor however front fitment is fine." Will theses spacers fit on the rear axle of a corrado ?
> 
> Thx


Corrado/Passat/Mk2/Mk3 all have the same rear rotor.

Don't use ECS spacers. go get something decent like eibach, H&R or adaptec. You won't have that issue.

And why such a large spacer for stock wheels? Seems like a waste of money to me...


----------



## NW A4 (Jan 12, 2011)

TheBurninator said:


> 95 is OBDI but it may have an OBDII plug as 94 Corrados got an OBDII plug and were still OBDI.
> 
> Check the ECU numbers if you want to be sure.
> 
> So stay 96 or above and be good?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

NW A4 said:


> TheBurninator said:
> 
> 
> > 95 is OBDI but it may have an OBDII plug as 94 Corrados got an OBDII plug and were still OBDI.
> ...


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

So uh... What's the general consensus on spring cutting around here? According to the P.O, I'm on Bilstein sport struts and H&R Sport springs, VR6 front strut bushings and poly rear strut bushings (assuming they're for the G60 as he listed it just like that).

I want to drop the front about 3/4 of an inch, maybe an inch. Is there a reason he went with VR6 front strut bushings? Wouldn't that leave the front a bit higher than G60 bushings would? As you can probably tell I don't know much about the Corrado suspension setup.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

elijah- said:


> So uh... What's the general consensus on spring cutting around here? According to the P.O, I'm on Bilstein sport struts and H&R Sport springs, VR6 front strut bushings and poly rear strut bushings (assuming they're for the G60 as he listed it just like that).
> 
> I want to drop the front about 3/4 of an inch, maybe an inch. Is there a reason he went with VR6 front strut bushings? Wouldn't that leave the front a bit higher than G60 bushings would? As you can probably tell I don't know much about the Corrado suspension setup.


Its an upgrade for the G60. Upgrade to VR6 stiffer & more durable setup/parts...
Check this link: http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Suspension/198/1


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Its an upgrade for the G60. Upgrade to VR6 stiffer & more durable setup/parts...
> Check this link: http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Suspension/198/1


That's kind of what I figured... I guess it would probably be a bad idea to go back to VR6 strut bushings then :laugh:

Back to the drawing board..


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

elijah- said:


> So uh... What's the general consensus on spring cutting around here? According to the P.O, I'm on Bilstein sport struts and H&R Sport springs, VR6 front strut bushings and poly rear strut bushings (assuming they're for the G60 as he listed it just like that).
> 
> I want to drop the front about 3/4 of an inch, maybe an inch. Is there a reason he went with VR6 front strut bushings? Wouldn't that leave the front a bit higher than G60 bushings would? As you can probably tell I don't know much about the Corrado suspension setup.


Cut springs, no! Get the correct springs for your car with the correct spring rates, or coils. If you do not know what you have, pull a tire and get a part number off a spring and cross reference them.

I wouldn't believe upgrading to VR bushings (which is what you want, harder compound/better design) will raise the car dramatically, if it does, it would be very minute


----------



## eurosportgti (Jan 15, 2003)

anyone have any pix of their dash shell removed and just the heater core etc still attached to the fire wall?


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

eurosportgti said:


> anyone have any pix of their dash shell removed and just the heater core etc still attached to the fire wall?


This might help? Just off the top of my head.

http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8848


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

elijah- said:


> That's kind of what I figured... I guess it would probably be a bad idea to go back to VR6 strut bushings then :laugh:
> 
> Back to the drawing board..


Cut springs are for champs! GET LOW


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> Cut springs are for champs! GET LOW


I know it was quite frowned upon when I had my Mustang (and I never did it, I had the drop I wanted from the right springs/struts). I guess I just need to do some looking around for different setups, but I'm not about to drop a big chunk on coils at this point in time.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

eurosportgti said:


> anyone have any pix of their dash shell removed and just the heater core etc still attached to the fire wall?


sure do 

But not on Photobucket, I will shoot you an email :thumbup:


----------



## DrivenNails (Aug 31, 2008)

Im having a Battery drain? I start it and sometimes my volt meter only reads 10.5 vlts and obviously this effects my headlight lumens. Other times I get a full 13.5 volts on the meter. It fluctuates by day. Does anyone have any ideas?


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

eurosportgti said:


> anyone have any pix of their dash shell removed and just the heater core etc still attached to the fire wall?


 I've got a few, they're closer up, so none of them show the whole thing. what exactly are you looking for?


----------



## eurosportgti (Jan 15, 2003)

NoCYet said:


> I've got a few, they're closer up, so none of them show the whole thing. what exactly are you looking for?


Im looking for the whole thing but id like to see the pix u have


----------



## corrado-correr (Jul 8, 2004)

the corrado forums move a lot slower than i remember


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

corrado-correr said:


> the corrado forums move a lot slower than i remember


They have their ups and downs, try out the 12V, SEM & FI technical forums if you're bored


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

eurosportgti said:


> Im looking for the whole thing but id like to see the pix u have


 PM me your Email, and I'll send them to you.


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> sure do


Nice pedal covers:laugh:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheLateJetta said:


> Nice pedal covers:laugh:


I'm glad you like them and will be for sale soon if you'd like to pick them up :laugh:


----------



## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

hey guys having trouble with my power, somethinng is draining my battery. I now need a new battery and altinator. but i don't want to get these untill I find out what's causing my battery to die!!?? please and thank u


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I'm glad you like them and will be for sale soon if you'd like to pick them up :laugh:


Sweet LMK!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Merlin87 said:


> hey guys having trouble with my power, somethinng is draining my battery. I now need a new battery and altinator. but i don't want to get these untill I find out what's causing my battery to die!!?? please and thank u


Buy a Multimeter, there is plenty of documentation available on the web about parasitic battery loss and how to check for it. I'd be willing to bet it has to do with your seatbelts, ABS(if you have it) or your doorlocks(more a vacuum leak in this department), those being the more prone areas for failure. PULL YOUR SEATBELT RELAYS!!!!!!!!!!!



TheLateJetta said:


> Sweet LMK!


Will do, and I'll hook you up on the price as well


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Merlin87 said:


> hey guys having trouble with my power, somethinng is draining my battery. I now need a new battery and altinator. but i don't want to get these untill I find out what's causing my battery to die!!?? please and thank u


If you have a bad battery and alternator, that may be your issue. However if its deeper than that I'd say check your security system module. If your security system dosnt work I'm betting that's your issue. Also check your power seatbelts. Aside from that. It's a Corrado, LOTS of things could be draining your battery.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheLateJetta said:


> If you have a bad battery and alternator, that may be your issue. However if its deeper than that I'd say check your security system module. If your security system dosnt work I'm betting that's your issue. Also check your power seatbelts. Aside from that. It's a Corrado, LOTS of things could be draining your battery.


I'd start with the alternator, since its the easier part to diagnose too 

But yeah, like TheLateJetta said, afterall its a Corrado and lots can go wrong, lol :laugh:


----------



## 33Dubnut (Jul 11, 2009)

Okay guys, I'm a long time V Dub owner of all sorts, Jetta, GTI (Currently), Cabrio and lots of old air cooled stuff. Here's my thing. Always loved the old 16V Scirroco's and Corrados. I'm seriously at the point where I want to find a Corrado VR6 to drive. Question is, are the Corrados any more problematic that the GTIs or the Jettas? I'm not looking for anything with heavy mods but more along the lines of stock with the exception of Wheels (Of Course) maybe intake and exhaust. Gonna be a daily driver. Just looking for some pros and cons and maybe what year I should look for. Like I said I don't know much about the Corrados or their issues. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot for any help


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

33Dubnut said:


> Okay guys, I'm a long time V Dub owner of all sorts, Jetta, GTI (Currently), Cabrio and lots of old air cooled stuff. Here's my thing. Always loved the old 16V Scirroco's and Corrados. I'm seriously at the point where I want to find a Corrado VR6 to drive. Question is, are the Corrados any more problematic that the GTIs or the Jettas? I'm not looking for anything with heavy mods but more along the lines of stock with the exception of Wheels (Of Course) maybe intake and exhaust. Gonna be a daily driver. Just looking for some pros and cons and maybe what year I should look for. Like I said I don't know much about the Corrados or their issues. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot for any help


More problematic, I'd say so, more expensive, definitely! Daily, eeh maybe if it was unmolested and well maintained close to stock example. 93+ for the VR :thumbup:

Read thru the FAQ, a ton of info there


----------



## 33Dubnut (Jul 11, 2009)

Okay thanks. Think I should go with a GTI then? I have a 97 VR6 now and I love it but it's my daughters car, so as soon as she gets her license, I'm gettin the boot.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

33Dubnut said:


> Okay thanks. Think I should go with a GTI then? I have a 97 VR6 now and I love it but it's my daughters car, so as soon as she gets her license, I'm gettin the boot.


Not to try to talk you out of it, but based on what you asked, I would lean toward the GTI :beer:


----------



## mattalex123 (Oct 16, 2010)

does anyone know if a 92 G60 rear bumper will fit on a 93 SLC?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

mattalex123 said:


> does anyone know if a 92 G60 rear bumper will fit on a 93 SLC?


Maybe this would help: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-and-SLC-rear-bumpers-and-can-they-be-swapped


----------



## GreenEyedBandit (Sep 18, 2003)

Not a technical question but I haven't been able to find an answer anywhere else.

Does anyone know the production/import numbers for N/A? Just curious.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

GreenEyedBandit said:


> Not a technical question but I haven't been able to find an answer anywhere else.
> 
> Does anyone know the production/import numbers for N/A? Just curious.




IIRC:
Roughly 14k-16K G60's
Roughly 6k SLC's


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> IIRC:
> Roughly 14k-16K G60's
> Roughly 6k SLC's


No isht 

the #'s sound a little light on the VR, there's like 6k in Florida alone :laugh:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

lol, nah... PA is the one state that Holds It Down on the SLC factor.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> lol, nah... PA is the one state that Holds It Down on the SLC factor.


I was just bustin  

I know PA holds some isht down!!!


----------



## GreenEyedBandit (Sep 18, 2003)

I'm guessing half of those turned into parts cars we're all stripping huh?


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

Does anybody have a picture of a VR6 front crossmember and lower radiator support connected and on a car? It's been so long I've forgotten which bolts go where and how they are supposed to look on the car. I searched but didn't find anything on a car. Thanks guys. 

Even an ETKA picture could help.


----------



## mattalex123 (Oct 16, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> sender on the oil filter housing. :beer:


Changed both high and low oil pressure sensors on the car today and it still jumpes to 10, even with the car off on accessory mode. what should i try next? not really sure where to look next.


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

mattalex123 said:


> Changed both high and low oil pressure sensors on the car today and it still jumpes to 10, even with the car off on accessory mode. what should i try next? not really sure where to look next.


He wasn't talking about the sensors, he replied a bit back saying he was talking about the entire sending unit... not sure if that's the prob but that's what he suggested if I recall correctly

Here, this is what he said



"No I am referring to the HUGE SENDING UNIT on the oil filter stand (VR6 Corrado Specific) that isn't a pressure switch but rather a sending unit. "


----------



## newbdubber (Apr 22, 2011)

*Automatic trans troubles*

I have a 1991 G60 that starts in 3rd gear and doesnt shift to 4th gear. While i am driving i shut the car off and turn it back on and the trans will shift fine. My speedo will stop working once i do this. Any ideas on to what this could be or where I should start?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

newbdubber said:


> I have a 1991 G60 that starts in 3rd gear and doesnt shift to 4th gear. While i am driving i shut the car off and turn it back on and the trans will shift fine. My speedo will stop working once i do this. Any ideas on to what this could be or where I should start?


auto?


----------



## newbdubber (Apr 22, 2011)

yes auto


----------



## newbdubber (Apr 22, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> auto?



sorry yes auto


----------



## XxxcorradoxxX (Mar 31, 2011)

hows going to uptown tonight?


----------



## mattalex123 (Oct 16, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> No I am referring to the HUGE SENDING UNIT on the oil filter stand (VR6 Corrado Specific) that isn't a pressure switch but rather a sending unit.


what is the sending unit exactly?

Is it the casting where the oil filter cap screws into the bottom and the sensors are on top? the one that has three bolts that directly attach it to the block? if so where can i get it? if not what is it, and where can i get it. I did some googling and couldnt really pinpoint it. Thanks.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

mattalex123 said:


> what is the sending unit exactly?
> 
> Is it the casting where the oil filter cap screws into the bottom and the sensors are on top? the one that has three bolts that directly attach it to the block? if so where can i get it? if not what is it, and where can i get it. I did some googling and couldnt really pinpoint it. Thanks.












Like I said, the HUGE SENDING UNIT ON TOP OF THE FILTER STAND. If you do not have this, the oil filter stand or motor was swapped from a car that did not have the sending unit on its filter stand.


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

iAco said:


> Does anybody have a picture of a VR6 front crossmember and lower radiator support connected and on a car? It's been so long I've forgotten which bolts go where and how they are supposed to look on the car. I searched but didn't find anything on a car. Thanks guys.
> 
> Even an ETKA picture could help.


I hate to be a pain, but can anyone help? I think I installed the bushings upside down :banghead:
Do the metal inserts that go thru the bushings go in from the top of the crossmember or from underneath? Just one clear picture installed and I'll be golden.


----------



## need4speed2345 (May 12, 2005)

Merlin87 said:


> hey guys having trouble with my power, somethinng is draining my battery. I now need a new battery and altinator. but i don't want to get these untill I find out what's causing my battery to die!!?? please and thank u


check the glove box light.. make sure its off.. mine always is getting turned on.


----------



## ein (Feb 3, 2007)

iAco said:


> I hate to be a pain, but can anyone help? I think I installed the bushings upside down :banghead:
> Do the metal inserts that go thru the bushings go in from the top of the crossmember or from underneath? Just one clear picture installed and I'll be golden.


This one's on Oichan...


http://www.oichan.org/mods/bush/bush2.htm

Anyone hear from him (Oichan) anyway?


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

ein said:


> This one's on Oichan...
> 
> 
> http://www.oichan.org/mods/bush/bush2.htm
> ...


These are for you when I see you next. :beer::beer::beer:


----------



## mattalex123 (Oct 16, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Like I said, the HUGE SENDING UNIT ON TOP OF THE FILTER STAND. If you do not have this, the oil filter stand or motor was swapped from a car that did not have the sending unit on its filter stand.


Ok, so i do not have that on my car. How would i go about putting it in? I think the filter housing may be from a 95 Jetta VR6 (that’s the oil filter that fits). How could i go about confirming that that is the original engine in the car? Just for peace of mind.


----------



## NW A4 (Jan 12, 2011)

96 Jetta vr6 wiring just as easy as passat for a swap? Just a few more sensors to cut, correct?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

NW A4 said:


> 96 Jetta vr6 wiring just as easy as passat for a swap? Just a few more sensors to cut, correct?


 No.....you will want to Kill Yerself. 
Patience.....Find the Passat harness. 



mattalex123 said:


> Ok, so i do not have that on my car. How would i go about putting it in? I think the filter housing may be from a 95 Jetta VR6 (that’s the oil filter that fits). How could i go about confirming that that is the original engine in the car? Just for peace of mind.


Too much looking to verify motors. Find the Corrado filter stand. Or call the dealer for the OE part, or find a sending unit of the same parameters somewhere and use it for the gauge. Google is your savior on this one.


----------



## eurosportgti (Jan 15, 2003)

Looking for opinions. Where do u think i should mount my Apexi boost controler? I was thinking either in the left hand corner of the dash or totally out of the way in the glove box.


----------



## mattalex123 (Oct 16, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Too much looking to verify motors. Find the Corrado filter stand. Or call the dealer for the OE part, or find a sending unit of the same parameters somewhere and use it for the gauge. Google is your savior on this one.


Ok, Hopefully last question, You have been a HUGE help so far:beer:. I'm looking into getting the correct corrado filter stand, and if i do, where would the wire that goes to the sender be, i.e. what harness is it attached too and where should i start looking?


----------



## NW A4 (Jan 12, 2011)

DUBZAK said:


> No.....you will want to Kill Yerself.
> Patience.....Find the Passat harness.
> .


Okay difference between auto and manual passat? Besides the ecu? Or should I just wait for a full manual donor? Can get a auto for super cheap right now

And any modification needed to fit the manual trans up?


----------



## Rhino74 (May 31, 2010)

Okay guys i just replaced my drivers side axle assembly. I put everything back together what I thought was correctly. When i drive the car and make a hard right, it vibrates alot. almost feels like the new axle is out of balance.. 

I torqued the outer axle nut to 66 ft/lbs and im thinking it possibly isnt torqued enough.. whats going on here?

I packed the grease REALLY good into the inner cv joint as required.. 

The car is a 1993 VR6.

Thanks for your help guys


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

What number are the license plate light bulbs? I'd like to order some decent leds to replace them, but can't find the number anywhere.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## cheebs (May 12, 2003)

elijah- said:


> What number are the license plate light bulbs? I'd like to order some decent leds to replace them, but can't find the number anywhere.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


BA9S wedge bulbs


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

newbdubber said:


> I have a 1991 G60 that starts in 3rd gear and doesnt shift to 4th gear. While i am driving i shut the car off and turn it back on and the trans will shift fine. My speedo will stop working once i do this. Any ideas on to what this could be or where I should start?



If you have shifting problems and a restart then causes it to shift normally , you've got a short somewhere. (I think the K line). I had the same problem with my car and thats what they were able to track it down to. When the TCM detects a short it tries to limit the car shifting into 4th gear, IE 'limp mode'. It will only shift once it feels less damage will be done by shifting than by red lining the tranny.

The reason shutting your car off works is that it clears the active memory of the TCM and it then operates as normal. (though the code is still saved in the TCM history, so it can be pulled later)
There are other reasons that could be causing it... but most likely that is it. Have someone with VagCom and a 2x2 cable pull the codes from your TCM.


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

cheebs said:


> BA9S wedge bulbs


Thanks :thumbup:

Next up: Any source for the roof rain gutters for a reasonable price? If I'm going to have to shell out $200 a pop, I'll just shave them when I do the body work and paint.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

elijah- said:


> Thanks :thumbup:
> 
> Next up: Any source for the roof rain gutters for a reasonable price? If I'm going to have to shell out $200 a pop, I'll just shave them when I do the body work and paint.


Just repair them.


Shaved gutters doesn't flow well with the lines of the car. Especially since the rear hatch hinge is part of the gutter.


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

*hey whats good guys*

So i need to know if in fact redline gear oil is red I have some red oil dripping from between the motor and tranny I just thought it was gear oil so i bought mt90 and tryed to add some some but I notice that the oil coming out the tranny when I took of the plug off was brownish gold not red so idk what to do I'm pretty lost at this point. :screwy:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

G60Ron said:


> So i need to know if in fact redline gear oil is red I have some red oil dripping from between the motor and tranny I just thought it was gear oil so i bought mt90 and tryed to add some some but I notice that the oil coming out the tranny when I took of the plug off was brownish gold not red so idk what to do I'm pretty lost at this point. :screwy:


Ron, did you do as we discussed?

You do not want to simply add mt90 to a trans that you don't know what's in it, IIRC I used 75-90


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

NW A4 said:


> Okay difference between auto and manual passat? Besides the ecu? Or should I just wait for a full manual donor? Can get a auto for super cheap right now
> 
> And any modification needed to fit the manual trans up?


Nope, the Auto trans will have an extra plug on the TB for the Auto Kick Down. Should be fine. 



mattalex123 said:


> Ok, Hopefully last question, You have been a HUGE help so far:beer:. I'm looking into getting the correct corrado filter stand, and if i do, where would the wire that goes to the sender be, i.e. what harness is it attached too and where should i start looking?


Should be attached to the engine harness currently. If it is not present run a new wire from the gauge to the sender, use the Bentely manual to verify wiring for power and ground. :thumbup:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Rhino74 said:


> Okay guys i just replaced my drivers side axle assembly. I put everything back together what I thought was correctly. When i drive the car and make a hard right, it vibrates alot. almost feels like the new axle is out of balance..
> 
> I torqued the outer axle nut to 66 ft/lbs and im thinking it possibly isnt torqued enough.. whats going on here?
> 
> ...


250 FT LBS. Very Important.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> 250 FT LBS. Very Important.


THIS ^

And now need to replace the bearing if you drove it only torqued to 66ftlbs


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

needing a new suspension asap:

car is a daily so can't send off parts to be rebuilt 

looking at:

koni yellows (then have to source springs)
fk streelines
bilstein pss (had an agreement with a guy to buy em, but then he dropped off the planet - these are used)

price range is ~$600


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

valet said:


> needing a new suspension asap:
> 
> car is a daily so can't send off parts to be rebuilt
> 
> ...


I :heart: my PSS's


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

valet said:


> needing a new suspension asap:
> 
> car is a daily so can't send off parts to be rebuilt
> 
> ...


Look for a used set of Koni coilovers in the classifieds. You won't be disappointed AT ALL.

Also if you can swing it ST coilovers are a nice bang for the buck and close to your price range. They are essentially KW V1's without the chrome body.

I would avoid the lower end FK's They are mediocre at best and don't go low if you are into that sort of thing

Bilstiens to me ride too stiff. But they are more of a track coilover.


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

not too interested in going super low - in a previous life I had a g60 on bilstein sports with h&r springs and loved them (the main reason I'm leaning towards pss)

too bad that brand new bilstein sports and springs would put me out of my price range


----------



## Dustydelux (Apr 17, 2011)

*Super charger bypass*

Whats the best way to bypass my super charger, i need to take it out for a rebuild.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

valet said:


> not too interested in going super low - in a previous life I had a g60 on bilstein sports with h&r springs and loved them (the main reason I'm leaning towards pss)
> 
> too bad that brand new bilstein sports and springs would put me out of my price range


I still vote used Koni coilovers or ST's


----------



## Hemingway'sToe (Feb 13, 2009)

Dustydelux said:


> Whats the best way to bypass my super charger, i need to take it out for a rebuild.


There's a procedure in the FAQ in the G60 forum. 
Link: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?697670-g60-FAQ-Read-this-first! procedure is about halfway down the first page
Basically amounts to this:

1. Remove Power Steering pulley, and V-Belt.
2. Remove Charger Belt Tensioner
3. Remove Old Belt
4. Install New Belt (shorter belt 59.5 in with AC, bypassing the charger) 
5. Install Tensioner
6. Install Power Steering pulley and V-Belt


----------



## Hemingway'sToe (Feb 13, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> I still vote used Koni coilovers or ST's


If you can find the used one's definitely the way to go. If you can justify spending a little more then new ones are even better. 

That being said, I wasn't patient enough to find used Koni's and too cheap to buy new ones, so I have a set of ST's waiting to be installed :laugh:


----------



## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

Could a reason for wheels to feel wobbly be because they are missing weights? I am 99.9999% sure that they aren't bent because they sat untouched in my garage for the winter. By the way they are BBS RX's if that makes any difference.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Balance the wheels, and recheck.


----------



## NW A4 (Jan 12, 2011)

does a 96 passat auto vr6 have the same harness as 96 manual? Is only the ecu difference in electrical?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

NW A4 said:


> does a 96 passat auto vr6 have the same harness as 96 manual? Is only the ecu difference in electrical?


The harness out of the auto will have extra wiring that runs to the trans and trans controller but you can remove it and make it work with a manual care... Just extra BS and steps to go through.


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

Can I soak my pistons in SeaFoam to clean the carbon and junk off them? Or is it too harsh? I thought I saw somewhere someone using SeaFoam to clean valves so it should be good for pistons right?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

iAco said:


> Can I soak my pistons in SeaFoam to clean the carbon and junk off them? Or is it too harsh? I thought I saw somewhere someone using SeaFoam to clean valves so it should be good for pistons right?


I would definitely say so, but have never personally tried it on a piston


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I would definitely say so, but have never personally tried it on a piston


Yeah, it will be fine to use on them.


----------



## OldZofTorC (May 13, 2011)

*Drivablility Just got the car*

Thanks in advance.

I just picked up a 93.

The car is all original as far as I know.

112k. 5 spd.
I drove the car from Denver to So. New Mexico and that is about all the seat time I have had.

The car runs great until it gets to normal operating temp. Which is 160 on the gauge. LOW

At this point it runs fine at highway speed. Top gear 35x100 rpm appx 75mph.
However when I leave the highway and drive in traffic. It feels as though the car is jerking and bucking because of a loss in fuel pressure. The tank is full but it feels as though the fuel pickup runs dry when turning corners. 
I await your questions regarding conditions.

Thanks


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I would definitely say so, but have never personally tried it on a piston





TheBurninator said:


> Yeah, it will be fine to use on them.


Much appreciated. That will be tomorrows project.


----------



## VW_Jake (Apr 24, 2011)

*90 Corrado*

I am driving 2 hours to look at a Corrado g60 this weekend... Pics look good. So mechanically are there any typical issues with these cars I should be aware of? It's a manual, with 118k miles and owner says supercharger works...


----------



## OldZofTorC (May 13, 2011)

*Drivablility Just got the car*

It felt to me that it could be the air flow meter having a worn spot or tps.

I could almost control the engine with the throttle but it just would finally catch and give normal power.


----------



## VW_Jake (Apr 24, 2011)

*Technical info*

If you are using Nm torque it's 70Nm+90degree rotation.. This presses the axle shaft into the wheel bearing (inner race of bearing).you will most likely have to replace that bearing now.. It's also pressed in.

Anyone needing technical specs.. Shoot me an email and I will get them to you. I have access to VW elsa web portal.


----------



## VW_Jake (Apr 24, 2011)

*Jerky*

I had a scirroco do that once.. It had been sitting for awhile and had crap in the tank.. May need to drop that fuel tank and flush it out.. Change filters and all that


----------



## VW_Jake (Apr 24, 2011)

What about lower temp thermostats? Are there any aftermarket high flow cooling fans available?


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

VW_Jake said:


> I am driving 2 hours to look at a Corrado g60 this weekend... Pics look good. So mechanically are there any typical issues with these cars I should be aware of? It's a manual, with 118k miles and owner says supercharger works...


Better get AAA for the ride home. :laugh: 

There is a thread on here that has tips for buying a corrado with some very useful tips/pointers. Good Luck! Take your time and shop around. 

Here is the thread....
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?562390

And another
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?516340


----------



## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Balance the wheels, and recheck.


Thanks


----------



## newbdubber (Apr 22, 2011)

Thanks cyber! Onto the K-line for a short


----------



## FlatlanderSJ (Oct 4, 2007)

Where can I fairly inexpensive mirror glass. I find sites online but I'm not sure if they are glass or just that dumb plastic cut to shape junk.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

FlatlanderSJ said:


> Where can I fairly inexpensive mirror glass. I find sites online but I'm not sure if they are glass or just that dumb plastic cut to shape junk.


IIRC, Spoonfed Tuning was going to carry them, shoot "dogger" a PM :thumbup: Also check the yellow spoonfed link in my sig


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## NW A4 (Jan 12, 2011)

TheBurninator said:


> The harness out of the auto will have extra wiring that runs to the trans and trans controller but you can remove it and make it work with a manual care... Just extra BS and steps to go through.


About how much more, is it really worth it to wait and pay a little extra for a manual? So many cheap autos but have yet to see a cheap manual.


----------



## paulytits (Jun 13, 2007)

any differences between a g60 and slc or 92 and 93 and up hatch locking cylinder? im about to buy one on here which looks like it has 3 holes for bolts to attach it to the inner part of the trunk... meanwhile i was looking at mine and i can only see 2 bolts? confused.


----------



## OldZofTorC (May 13, 2011)

*Hey experts Any opinions?*

I need help with my drivability issue.


----------



## cheebs (May 12, 2003)

OldZofTorC said:


> I need help with my drivability issue.


Had to go and search to find your questions 

1. How long had the car been sitting before you took it home? If it had been sitting for a while, was the tank flushed/cleaned?
2. Did you replace the fuel filter?
3. Did you check fuel pressure?

Def. sounds like a fuel delivery thing, just have to backtrack through the system...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

NW A4 said:


> About how much more, is it really worth it to wait and pay a little extra for a manual? So many cheap autos but have yet to see a cheap manual.


depends... how good are you at wiring and comparing diagrams? For me it would be a no brainer to go for the cheaper one, but I know VW wiring and how to depin stuff easily.


----------



## OldZofTorC (May 13, 2011)

*Drivablility Just got the car*

I have not done anything but drive it.
It runs fine most of the time I will drive it around tomorrow and see if I can narrow the conditions.
thank you for responding.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

OldZofTorC said:


> I have not done anything but drive it.
> It runs fine most of the time I will drive it around tomorrow and see if I can narrow the conditions.
> thank you for responding.


Check sensors to see if the are still within spec and do a tuneup


----------



## NW A4 (Jan 12, 2011)

TheBurninator said:


> depends... how good are you at wiring and comparing diagrams? For me it would be a no brainer to go for the cheaper one, but I know VW wiring and how to depin stuff easily.


Well honestly it would be my first swap. So no prior knowledge. Im wanting to learn from it also.


----------



## paulytits (Jun 13, 2007)

this might sound really retarded but... how the hell do i get my cigarette lighter to fit back into the dash properly? i removed it awhile back so i could get out the heater controls so see if my antenna wire was behind it somewhere. 

anyway ever since i haven't been able to get the damn thing back into place. ive looked at people who had them for sale and i gotta say it doesn't look like i have any tabs broken. i figured id check here before i go ahead with just slamming on this damn thing and breaking it.


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

Is the exhaust setup supposed to be a bit bouncy on our cars? When I bought my Corrado I knew it had a slightly leaky gasket and thus a very slight exhaust tick. The other day I was playing with the exhaust tip and I noticed the whole setup was pretty bouncy, seems like it was only hanging from a rubber hanger towards the very back. Struck me as kind of odd... Anyways, drove for about 15 mins today and I went over some pretty decent bumps, and now I sound like a full blown puerto rican honda civic driving through town. I imagine it probably just opened the hole up a bit more.

Anyways, how many exhaust hangers should there be/are they very elastic or should they be more rigid?


----------



## telefanatic (Jan 9, 2007)

hey guys i just installed 30lb injectors along with 3.5Bar and a stage 4 Bahn Brenner chip, my car is a turboed G60. Im running a little rich, is it natural for the setup ? The car runs and pulls nice now, im having a lot of fun driving it now.

Oh and one more question, what is that thing called thats on the the pipe thats going to throttle body on the part it says "VDO" i tried looking for it at germanautoparts.com but cant find anything?


----------



## charlypistolas29 (Oct 30, 2010)

*looking for more HP*

I've driving my g60 everyday for almost a year and never had no problems, i keep hearing corrados aren't daily drivers, but i haven't had a problem yet. Im looking for more hp and irealy don't know what to look into i hear that once you mess with it u start getting problems so that makes me think i should keep it stock. What can i do to keep it a daily driver and get more horse power at the same time??? Any ideas??
1990 G60
I DO NOT FULL KNOWLEDGE ON ANY AREAS.
I don't know if anything was modified or changed or rebuild so as u guys see I can use alot of help.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

telefanatic said:


> hey guys i just installed 30lb injectors along with 3.5Bar and a stage 4 Bahn Brenner chip, my car is a turboed G60. Im running a little rich, is it natural for the setup ? The car runs and pulls nice now, im having a lot of fun driving it now.
> 
> *Oh and one more question, what is that thing called thats on the the pipe thats going to throttle body on the part it says "VDO" i tried looking for it at germanautoparts.com but cant find anything?*


^^Co-pot (co-potentiometer)


----------



## ALLROAD VR (Jan 23, 2006)

*Rolling or eliminating fender lips...*

Going to the wider wheel route. Anyone know the proper way to roll or eliminate the fender lips on the Corrado? 

The fronts seem easy to grind off but the rears seems like the sheet metal are double!


----------



## telefanatic (Jan 9, 2007)

RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^Co-pot (co-potentiometer)


Thank you, do you know where i can buy one ? i check out some sites including ebay but cant find anything ? Are they pretty rare ? The one in the car now is not original , it looks different its white and blue color, and if i try and install the other one i got the original one the car is idling really hard the whole car shakes like crazy and rpms keep bugging.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

ALLROAD VR said:


> Going to the wider wheel route. Anyone know the proper way to roll or eliminate the fender lips on the Corrado?
> 
> The fronts seem easy to grind off but the rears seems like the sheet metal are double!


*DONT GRIND THEM OFF!*

I hate people that do that.

Go rent a fender roller. or go the hammer and dolly method. Hammer and dolly method and you are for sure doing paint work, fender roller you can get away with some minor welding in the rear.

The only way to do it properly in the rear is by cutting and welding the section above where the rear bumper meets the arch then rolling it. Otherwise it distorts the arch.


----------



## steezbox (Feb 6, 2007)

Okay, I know the answer but I really hope I am wrong.

I did the headgasket and timing chains 1.5k ago. While the head was off I had a shop do the valve guides, clean it and plane it. It looked awesome all new n shiny, but had a couple pockmarks, though nowhere near coolant/oil passageways or valves. I did everything to spec with the bentley. Now after I drive it, I notice a tiny amount of (what I assume is) coolant near cyl 1 and 6 by the gasket. That being said, it never overheats (230 max), runs like a champ and has normal coolant levels. I know you aren't supposed to go and retighten the head bolts, but please please please let this be something like that.

edit: I did a compression test right after the install, and can do another when it stops raining. I'll pull those numbers up tomorrow (PS unfortunately I didn't do one pre-hg/tC).

I seriously hope I didn't pull a 54blunts and have to go through this sh1tstorm all over again.

92 VR6 67k miles

thanks y'all


----------



## VW_Jake (Apr 24, 2011)

*Heater Core*

So how terrible is a heater core replacement?? 94 Jetta GLX Vr6
Also does anyone know where I can find factory side skirts for this model, mounts are still on and good but skirts are missing.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

VW_Jake said:


> So how terrible is a heater core replacement?? 94 Jetta GLX Vr6
> Also does anyone know where I can find factory side skirts for this model, mounts are still on and good but skirts are missing.


:facepalm: :sly: :what:  This is the CORRADO forum....:banghead:


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Here is a Corrado / O2A question.

The shifter linkages on my transmission have a LOT of play in them and need to be replaced especially the front - back cable linkage. I've searched around for other people doing this DIY and looked for parts. All I can find is the relay lever cable carrier linked below. Is that what I need? If not, how do I tighten the shifter up?
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Transmission/185/2


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

telefanatic said:


> Thank you, do you know where i can buy one ? i check out some sites including ebay but cant find anything ? Are they pretty rare ? The one in the car now is not original , it looks different its white and blue color, and if i try and install the other one i got the original one the car is idling really hard the whole car shakes like crazy and rpms keep bugging.


Here for example: http://www.bar-tek-tuning.com/lshop...60190,17,Tshowrub--1138132527.1138132703,.htm

Not very expensive.

I would try the dealer also


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheLateJetta said:


> Here is a Corrado / O2A question.
> 
> The shifter linkages on my transmission have a LOT of play in them and need to be replaced especially the front - back cable linkage. I've searched around for other people doing this DIY and looked for parts. All I can find is the relay lever cable carrier linked below. Is that what I need? If not, how do I tighten the shifter up?
> http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Transmission/185/2


I would start at the shifter box, look in there while moving the shifter around, you will most likely find the issue there and is cheap to replace the bushings, verdict motorsport makes an aluminum version.

Also, look at your shift tower while someone else moves the shifter to check for play there as well :thumbup:


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I would start at the shifter box, look in there while moving the shifter around, you will most likely find the issue there and is cheap to replace the bushings, verdict motorsport makes an aluminum version.
> 
> Also, look at your shift tower while someone else moves the shifter to check for play there as well :thumbup:


Thanks. I've already found that the play is coming from the linkages on top of the trans. Any advice there? The forward / back has quite a bit of play


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheLateJetta said:


> Thanks. I've already found that the play is coming from the linkages on top of the trans. Any advice there? The forward / back has quite a bit of play


Seen the Gruven alloy billet part???


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheLateJetta said:


> Thanks. I've already found that the play is coming from the linkages on top of the trans. Any advice there? The forward / back has quite a bit of play





RedYellowWhite said:


> Seen the Gruven alloy billet part???


Possibly this ^

also check with verdict

Please take this for what it's worth, but aren't end kits available for the VR 02a, like the MKIV's?


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Seen the Gruven alloy billet part???


 Ooooh, nice, thanks for the suggestion.



Sr. Karmann said:


> Please take this for what it's worth, but aren't end kits available for the VR 02a, like the MKIV's?


Thats the thing... I'm a past MkIV owner and I thought there would be but I've been unsuccessful in finding anything of the sort. 
If anyone has any leads that would be great. Otherwise I'm just going to grab some of the above-mentioned parts from Verdict & Gruven.


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

When I shift, I usually try to hold my shifter a bit to the right of where it would go if I just went straight up or straight down into a gear.. If I don't, sometimes it catches a bit and doesn't always want to go right in. Any idea what might cause that? It used to be an auto and was swapped to a 5 speed. Could something be a bit loose?


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

elijah- said:


> Is the exhaust setup supposed to be a bit bouncy on our cars? When I bought my Corrado I knew it had a slightly leaky gasket and thus a very slight exhaust tick. The other day I was playing with the exhaust tip and I noticed the whole setup was pretty bouncy, seems like it was only hanging from a rubber hanger towards the very back. Struck me as kind of odd... Anyways, drove for about 15 mins today and I went over some pretty decent bumps, and now I sound like a full blown puerto rican honda civic driving through town. I imagine it probably just opened the hole up a bit more.
> 
> Anyways, how many exhaust hangers should there be/are they very elastic or should they be more rigid?



I figured I'd go for a short ride to the coffee shop to study today, but the Corrado had a hard time starting up at first, and when I checked closer to see what the source of the leak was, I found this... If you look very closely at the bottom of the connection you can see right through, I have a feeling it's not supposed to be like that.

Looks like the connection is rusted and snapped as a result of me driving over some bumpy surfaces. I'm at school and have no tools with me, nor do I have the parts to replace this. Is it safe to drive home (2 hours..) with it like this or could I **** something up? I'm not too worried about it falling off completely, it doesn't look like it'll get to that point, but I do recall reading something about back pressure being a problem.

As far as fixing it, any advice? I've looked at EPP and GAP for replacement parts. The prices on EPP seem simply retarded. 

Excuse the lingo, I was surprised by how much exhaust was getting sent out through that hole.




















on that note..


----------



## VW_Jake (Apr 24, 2011)

*OH!*

OH, I get it now... You've never seen a Jetta because this is a Corrado forum. Thats J-E-T-T-A, Jetta, if its still unclear just remember its the same company that makes your beefed up Scirocco:screwy::facepalm:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

VW_Jake said:


> OH, I get it now... You've never seen a Jetta because this is a Corrado forum. Thats J-E-T-T-A, Jetta, if its still unclear just remember its the same company that makes your beefed up Scirocco:screwy::facepalm:


It's okay to feel butt hurt and somewhat expected coming in here asking about your chit box, enjoi NOOB!!! :wave:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

VW_Jake said:


> OH, I get it now... You've never seen a Jetta because this is a Corrado forum. Thats J-E-T-T-A, Jetta, if its still unclear just remember its the same company that makes your beefed up Scirocco:screwy::facepalm:


OH I GET IT! you got kicked out of the Mk3 forums for not being able to read


----------



## charlypistolas29 (Oct 30, 2010)

*Looking for more HP*

I've driving my g60 everyday for almost a year and never had no problems, i keep hearing corrados aren't daily drivers, but i haven't had a problem yet. Im looking for more hp and irealy don't know what to look into i hear that once you mess with it u start getting problems so that makes me think i should keep it stock. What can i do to keep it a daily driver and get more horse power at the same time??? Any ideas??
1990 G60
I DO NOT FULL KNOWLEDGE ON ANY AREAS.
I don't know if anything was modified or changed or rebuild so as u guys see I can use alot of help.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

charlypistolas29 said:


> I've driving my g60 everyday for almost a year and never had no problems, i keep hearing corrados aren't daily drivers, but i haven't had a problem yet. Im looking for more hp and irealy don't know what to look into i hear that once you mess with it u start getting problems so that makes me think i should keep it stock. What can i do to keep it a daily driver and get more horse power at the same time??? Any ideas??
> 1990 G60
> I DO NOT FULL KNOWLEDGE ON ANY AREAS.
> I don't know if anything was modified or changed or rebuild so as u guys see I can use alot of help.


You've come to the right place and yes there are several bolt-ons that will add power without sacrificing reliability, exhaust, lower staged chip, whatever they recommend for said chip, i.e. cam, FPR, supercharger pulley. I ran STG 4 which is at the top and I'd have to say was pretty damn reliable :thumbup:


----------



## charlypistolas29 (Oct 30, 2010)

*Looking for more HP*



sr. Karmann said:


> you've come to the right place and yes there are several bolt-ons that will add power without sacrificing reliability, exhaust, lower staged chip, whatever they recommend for said chip, i.e. Cam, fpr, supercharger pulley. I ran stg 4 which is at the top and i'd have to say was pretty damn reliable :thumbup:


ok. Thanks. Now im sorry to ask this but how do i know if my supercharger is working corectly?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

charlypistolas29 said:


> ok. Thanks. Now im sorry to ask this but how do i know if my supercharger is working corectly?


You need to do a couple tests, first pressure test for boost creep and then if you have none, or very minimal loss, put a boost gauge on it, there is a step-by-step in the Bentley :thumbup:

If it hasn't been serviced, I would STRONGLY recommend it, at least change the belt!!!


----------



## charlypistolas29 (Oct 30, 2010)

*Looking for more HP*



Sr. Karmann said:


> You need to do a couple tests, first pressure test for boost creep and then if you have none, or very minimal loss, put a boost gauge on it, there is a step-by-step in the Bentley :thumbup:
> 
> If it hasn't been serviced, I would STRONGLY recommend it, at least change the belt!!!


thank you againg and I'LL be back with more questions


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

charlypistolas29 said:


> thank you againg and I'LL be back with more questions


:thumbup: and c'mon back :beer:


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> :thumbup: and c'mon back :beer:


5 bucks if you can answer mine from the last page


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

elijah- said:


> 5 bucks if you can answer mine from the last page


5 bukks each? PM'd with paypal info :laugh: Naw, I'll take a crack at it 



elijah- said:


> When I shift, I usually try to hold my shifter a bit to the right of where it would go if I just went straight up or straight down into a gear.. If I don't, sometimes it catches a bit and doesn't always want to go right in. Any idea what might cause that? It used to be an auto and was swapped to a 5 speed. Could something be a bit loose?


Try adjusting your shift linkage at the tower, there is some adjustment there, refer to the Bentley. You may also have your cables crossed...



elijah- said:


> Is the exhaust setup supposed to be a bit bouncy on our cars? When I bought my Corrado I knew it had a slightly leaky gasket and thus a very slight exhaust tick. The other day I was playing with the exhaust tip and I noticed the whole setup was pretty bouncy, seems like it was only hanging from a rubber hanger towards the very back. Struck me as kind of odd... Anyways, drove for about 15 mins today and I went over some pretty decent bumps, and now I sound like a full blown puerto rican honda civic driving through town. I imagine it probably just opened the hole up a bit more.
> 
> Anyways, how many exhaust hangers should there be/are they very elastic or should they be more rigid?


Nope, pretty rigid, IIRC, there are 4, but only 3 brackets, one is double and if you have an aftermarket exhaust, you may or may not have the capability of running stock rubber hangers, mine are all new and stock although I have a Neuspeed cat-back



elijah- said:


> I figured I'd go for a short ride to the coffee shop to study today, but the Corrado had a hard time starting up at first, and when I checked closer to see what the source of the leak was, I found this... If you look very closely at the bottom of the connection you can see right through, I have a feeling it's not supposed to be like that.
> 
> Looks like the connection is rusted and snapped as a result of me driving over some bumpy surfaces. I'm at school and have no tools with me, nor do I have the parts to replace this. Is it safe to drive home (2 hours..) with it like this or could I **** something up? I'm not too worried about it falling off completely, it doesn't look like it'll get to that point, but I do recall reading something about back pressure being a problem.
> 
> ...


should be fine, just baby it and either replace the exhaust or cheaper route, take it to a local exhaust shop


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

VW_Jake said:


> OH, I get it now... You've never seen a Jetta because this is a Corrado forum. Thats J-E-T-T-A, Jetta, if its still unclear just remember its the same company that makes your beefed up Scirocco:screwy::facepalm:


FAIL :screwy: :thumbdown:



Sr. Karmann said:


> It's okay to feel butt hurt and somewhat expected coming in here asking about your chit box, enjoi NOOB!!! :wave:


:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

elijah- said:


> 5 bucks if you can answer mine from the last page





Sr. Karmann said:


> 5 bukks each? PM'd with paypal info :laugh:


 Sig worthy material right there :laugh:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Sig worthy material right there :laugh:


:laugh:


----------



## steezbox (Feb 6, 2007)

sad bump



steezbox said:


> Okay, I know the answer but I really hope I am wrong.
> 
> I did the headgasket and timing chains 1.5k ago. While the head was off I had a shop do the valve guides, clean it and plane it. It looked awesome all new n shiny, but had a couple pockmarks, though nowhere near coolant/oil passageways or valves. I did everything to spec with the bentley. Now after I drive it, I notice a tiny amount of (what I assume is) coolant near cyl 1 and 6 by the gasket. That being said, it never overheats (230 max), runs like a champ and has normal coolant levels. I know you aren't supposed to go and retighten the head bolts, but please please please let this be something like that.
> 
> ...


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

steezbox said:


> sad bump


Where near cyls 1 & 6, I'm no VR man and dont have the Bentley close, but isnt that the area of the freeze plug?


----------



## cheebs (May 12, 2003)

*Clear fluid puked out from under car*

UGH just came back to find a puddle of a clear (oily, thin) fluid under the car. Can't tell where it came from because of the skidplate, it all came out the back (of the skidplate). 

Is this hydraulic (PS) fluid? damn damn damn... steering rack?  ps pump?

There goes this week's show n' go!


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

^ Backside would be Rack my friend. See if the hose to the rack is leaking after you drop the plate. 

Steezebox, I would pull a plug and see if it is wet. And while the head was off was the block cleaned up too?


----------



## HumbleSlc (Oct 30, 2002)

I am trying to remove the outer triangle trim above the mirrors on the door. What is the easiest way to do this with out breaking anything. Thanks


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

Fuuuu. AAA on the way...

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

Ok I am tryin to determine what trans fluid to use. After numerous searches and lots of reading I am coming up with 75w90 synthetic is what is recommended for O2A Manual. Is this correct? I purchased mobil 1 75w90. Will this be ok? BTW its just a stock O2A Manual. No diff or anything like that.


----------



## pan1k (Jul 18, 2002)

yup should be fine.


----------



## Zorn1 (Jul 31, 2008)

I have a 1990 G60 that I've had some wiring issues with. Anyways, I got it to start and was running pretty good, rich but it still sounded good, so I decided to drive it to work one day while my buddy drove in his VR6. I didn't drive it much, I took it in after lunch, everything was working fine, spoiler, guages, even the g lader. I've had the car for about a year and that was the first time I actually got to really drive it, towards the end of the day when I was taking it home it started backfiring. Well, my daily scirocco stopped working right after that so I thought I would be able to take the corrado, since it runs, as long as I baby it. So I tried to drive it to work the next day, it started backfiring really bad and just dying out on me, so I ended up leaving it on the side of the road, and now it won't start, it cranks over ok, just won't start. I've noticed that when i turn the key on, the isv is on and feels like something is stuck in it, cuz I can feel it click while it vibrates. I've gone through the search and read a similar problem where somebody replaced the blue coolant temp sensor and it fired right up. Well I just replaced both blue and black sensors and it still doesn't start. Could my isv be bad? or would it be something else altogether?


----------



## need4speed2345 (May 12, 2005)

what part number belt do i get for the lysholm stage 4 kit? looks like 50mm pulley. do i get the non-ac belt?


----------



## rokhopr313 (Jan 13, 2011)

I have a 90 g60 and the stage 2 kit from bahn brenner is on it with 30lb injectors and I was wondering if I were to put a lower thermostat and lower fan switch(for lack of better word) on it would I need to d anything else? Or would I be able to just put those on and be good? And an example for those 2 parts would be the 2 off the stage 4 kit on brenner.

Or should I just keep it as is? I just don't like how hot the G60 always runs:screwy:

Thanks! Bradey


----------



## Merlin87 (Jan 20, 2011)

thanks guys and gals


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

*just bought a msd blaster 2*

What's up guys just bought a blaster 2 I have a g60..I haven't done any thing yet it b.c the wire from the coil to the dizzy didn't look like it will fit and the power and ground on the coil one is GREen and red.and then ground of course..now I need to know what is needed and what can be done thanks guys..ohh btw the reason for this is b.c I have a miss fire that IV Ben trying to get ride of it comes and goes so iv changed so far are plugs cap and rotar...lmk if you guys have any info in the new coil I bought thanks :beer:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

G60Ron said:


> What's up guys just bought a blaster 2 I have a g60..I haven't done any thing yet it b.c the wire from the coil to the dizzy didn't look like it will fit and the power and ground on the coil one is GREen and red.and then ground of course..now I need to know what is needed and what can be done thanks guys..ohh btw the reason for this is b.c I have a miss fire that IV Ben trying to get ride of it comes and goes so iv changed so far are plugs cap and rotar...lmk if you guys have any info in the new coil I bought thanks :beer:


I doubt this will solve your issue.... But you will need to put an MSD end on one side of the coil wire, and Red is hot, green is ground. Pretty simple there. 

Why not buy a stock coil? They last forever and really don't have issues.

Have you tried testing your coil to see if it is still in spec before you go replacing it?

How are your sensors?


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> I doubt this will solve your issue.... But you will need to put an MSD end on one side of the coil wire, and Red is hot, green is ground. Pretty simple there.
> 
> Why not buy a stock coil? They last forever and really don't have issues.
> 
> ...


OK on the stock coil the I have on one plug a green and red wire.... I have the black for groundso intotal theres 3 wires and no I haven't tested it out but I thought it was be a good choice sine I'm goin to be running 65mm pull stage 3 ecu and fpr


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## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

Sorry my tablet suck on vortex


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## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> 5 bukks each? PM'd with paypal info :laugh: Naw, I'll take a crack at it
> 
> 
> 
> ...





elijah- said:


> Fuuuu. AAA on the way...
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

elijah- said:


>


That sukks and yes, there is supposed to be an exhaust hanger right above where yours broke...


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> That sukks and yes, there is supposed to be an exhaust hanger right above where yours broke...


Yeah, that muffler/connector is so rusted I'll probably have to order a new setup. I can't exactly drop $1000 on a nice stainless setup, I'll probably have to go for the $3-400 aluminized TT setup. Anyone know of they sound decent? :x

There are two hangers right near where it broke, pretty hard to see with the lighting but you can see one of them on the little rusted hook on the suitcase. It's still pretty loose, but hopefully a lighter setup will help. The connector between the suitcase and the rear muffler is also rusted solid, can't even get the bolt off. Might have to have it towed to a shop and have them cut it off and install whatever new setup I get.


Also - the pipe hangs down pretty loosely, is it supposed to be able to do that or does that mean somethings potentially rusted through and broken up at the manifold as well?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

elijah- said:


> Yeah, that muffler/connector is so rusted I'll probably have to order a new setup. I can't exactly drop $1000 on a nice stainless setup, I'll probably have to go for the $3-400 aluminized TT setup. Anyone know of they sound decent? :x
> 
> There are two hangers right near where it broke, pretty hard to see with the lighting but you can see one of them on the little rusted hook on the suitcase. It's still pretty loose, but hopefully a lighter setup will help. The connector between the suitcase and the rear muffler is also rusted solid, can't even get the bolt off. Might have to have it towed to a shop and have them cut it off and install whatever new setup I get.
> 
> ...


a muffler shop may be able to repair it or replace it fairly inexpensively... and yes, there is a flex joint in your downpipe allowing for it to sag :thumbup:


----------



## Zorn1 (Jul 31, 2008)

Zorn1 said:


> I have a 1990 G60 that I've had some wiring issues with. Anyways, I got it to start and was running pretty good, rich but it still sounded good, so I decided to drive it to work one day while my buddy drove in his VR6. I didn't drive it much, I took it in after lunch, everything was working fine, spoiler, guages, even the g lader. I've had the car for about a year and that was the first time I actually got to really drive it, towards the end of the day when I was taking it home it started backfiring. Well, my daily scirocco stopped working right after that so I thought I would be able to take the corrado, since it runs, as long as I baby it. So I tried to drive it to work the next day, it started backfiring really bad and just dying out on me, so I ended up leaving it on the side of the road, and now it won't start, it cranks over ok, just won't start. I've noticed that when i turn the key on, the isv is on and feels like something is stuck in it, cuz I can feel it click while it vibrates. I've gone through the search and read a similar problem where somebody replaced the blue coolant temp sensor and it fired right up. Well I just replaced both blue and black sensors and it still doesn't start. Could my isv be bad? or would it be something else altogether?


I've tried to clean out my isv with brake cleaner as well and it still does the same thing, vibrates with a click every now and then.


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

I will be converting to obd2 for boosted application and I am trying to gather all the parts I will need to do this. So far I have wire harness, and cluster. I will be running a SRI on a 95 coilpack motor. What else will I need? Throttle body, ecu and what else, if anything?


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## GreenEyedBandit (Sep 18, 2003)

1990 G60-

What are the 'typical' electrical issues that drain the battery? I don't have a stereo currently and that's not high on my list of things to do to the car yet. I've heard some people say the vacuum pump for the door locks can drain the battery. Oh, my car came equipped with manual seat belts so that's another one of the electrical vampires I am currently protected from as well.


----------



## NW A4 (Jan 12, 2011)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> I will be converting to obd2 for boosted application and I am trying to gather all the parts I will need to do this. So far I have wire harness, and cluster. I will be running a SRI on a 95 coilpack motor. What else will I need? Throttle body, ecu and what else, if anything?


http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5880


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## Dave113 (May 20, 2011)

Are all corrados 90-95 have the same body? I want to buy aftermarket tail lights but the website says 95, would they fit?
Also, i own a 1990 G60, stock but very good condition, guy i bought it off of used it only in the summer and gave me a folder of receipts from the past 3 years. When i start the car after almost any period of time being off, when the revs get above 2500, the idle seems to stick at that rpms. This goes away after driving for about 5-10 minutes so it is more of an annoyance.
And yes, i have tried letting it warm up for a longer time, ive gone as long as 15 minutes and it still happens.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

'90 G60: I recently changed the blue and black coolant temp sensors. 

The old ones were both genuine VW parts. My coolant temp was always ok, when temps reached 90* the fan kicked on and temps dropped to normal. I changed them just for preventive maintenance... 

The replacements were not genuine ones (blue temp sensor is "ELTH made in Luxemburg" and the black is unknown brand). Both bought from a reliable VW parts shop and both are correct part # for the G60. Since I changed them I get high coolant temps (in cluster), goes to 90* very quickly (like 10 min running), fan still kicks on but temps don't drop - stay at 90* thus making fan always on/running...

Do you think it could be faulty replacement sensors or could it be irrelevant with them and something else is causing the high temps? Anynone experienced anything similar with non genuine sensors?

I was advised by my guy to swap the old ones back on and see how it goes...

TIA
-Nick


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Dave113 said:


> Are all corrados 90-95 have the same body? I want to buy aftermarket tail lights but the website says 95, would they fit?
> Also, i own a 1990 G60, stock but very good condition, guy i bought it off of used it only in the summer and gave me a folder of receipts from the past 3 years. When i start the car after almost any period of time being off, when the revs get above 2500, the idle seems to stick at that rpms. This goes away after driving for about 5-10 minutes so it is more of an annoyance.
> And yes, i have tried letting it warm up for a longer time, ive gone as long as 15 minutes and it still happens.


95 tails should fit fine and check your idle and wide open throttle switches on top of your throttle body :thumbup:



RedYellowWhite said:


> I was advised by my guy to swap the old ones back on and see how it goes...
> 
> TIA
> -Nick


This ^ :thumbup:


----------



## Ninjavizion (May 22, 2011)

*oil recommendation*

I'm looking to find out what is the best recommended motor oil for the following set-up:
BBM Lysholm Charger
53MM Pulley
Lysholm Stage 4 set up
1.8L 8v motor


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Ninjavizion said:


> I'm looking to find out what is the best recommended motor oil for the following set-up:
> BBM Lysholm Charger
> 53MM Pulley
> Lysholm Stage 4 set up
> 1.8L 8v motor


I saw your thread earlier today, but you should do some research "search" in the corrado or G60 technical forums for oil, there are a ton of threads. But it's basically whatever brand you feel comfortable with, i.e. I like Castrol...

Also weight of oil will depend on climate and mileage...


----------



## Ninjavizion (May 22, 2011)

Thanks man. I new to this stuff obviously. Much appreciated.


----------



## GreenEyedBandit (Sep 18, 2003)

GreenEyedBandit said:


> 1990 G60-
> 
> What are the 'typical' electrical issues that drain the battery? I don't have a stereo currently and that's not high on my list of things to do to the car yet. I've heard some people say the vacuum pump for the door locks can drain the battery. Oh, my car came equipped with manual seat belts so that's another one of the electrical vampires I am currently protected from as well.


Thanks for help!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Ninjavizion said:


> Thanks man. I new to this stuff obviously. Much appreciated.


You've come to the right place, tons of folks here willing to help, in this thread at least 



GreenEyedBandit said:


> Thanks for help!


It could be anything, you need to do some research about parasitic battery loss and follow the steps to isolating various circuits, this may help...

http://flashoffroad.com/electrical/Batteries/BatteryDrain.html


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

RedYellowWhite said:


> '90 G60: I recently changed the blue and black coolant temp sensors.
> 
> The old ones were both genuine VW parts. My coolant temp was always ok, when temps reached 90* the fan kicked on and temps dropped to normal. I changed them just for preventive maintenance...
> 
> ...





Sr. Karmann said:


> This ^ :thumbup:


Thanks man :thumbup: 
Will do so, but was just curious if anyone experience similar problem with non-genuine sensors or with the said brand maybe...
While searching online for "ELTH" and similar symptoms/reviews nothing bad came up...


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Thanks man :thumbup:
> Will do so, but was just curious if anyone experience similar problem with non-genuine sensors or with the said brand maybe...
> While searching online for "ELTH" and similar symptoms/reviews nothing bad came up...


gotcha bro, but dunno if that's even an available part here in the US :beer:


----------



## yosa12 (Oct 4, 2010)

I am trying (not very successfully) to change the oil on my 93 SLC (for the 1st time). The oil filter has a allen head (5.5mm) set screw at the bottom of the filter housing. Is this a drain outlet? I tried to remove it but it is tighter than all *ell. It will need a cheater bar of some sorts to loosen it. The filter housing is equally tight as well. Also, I cannot find any info on how tight to tighten (assuming I can get it off) the filter housing. I helped a buddy of mine change the oil in a 04 jetta yesterday and he tightened the filter housing to what I thought was an extreme. I am used to screw on filters where you do 3/4 turn after it makes contact. Needless to say I am feeling extremely stupid right now. :banghead::banghead::banghead:


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*

You need a shallow 36mm Socket for the filter housing. Yes that is a drain with the allen.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> gotcha bro, but dunno if that's even an available part here in the US :beer:


:what: It should be, since I bought it from US


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> :what: It should be, since I bought it from US


ah :facepalm:


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Thanks man :thumbup:
> Will do so, but was just curious if anyone experience similar problem with non-genuine sensors or with the said brand maybe...
> While searching online for "ELTH" and similar symptoms/reviews nothing bad came up...


Yes, I bought my blue and black temp sensors from GAP. It's important to me that all the sensors came from German or American manufacturers, AKA not Chinese. 
More information for those who might need it. 
One thing to remember is That the now BLACK temp sensors part number ends in 'D' which replaces the now obsolete part ending with 'B' that sensor feeds info to the cluster. The blue smaller sensor feeds engine temp info to the Motronic fuel injection system. This blue one when replaced made my car run a bit smoother. There is another sensor that is responsible for turning the fans on and off. That fan switch is located at the bottom drivers side of the radiator.
All are available from GAP or Rock Auto for a decent price. :thumbup:


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## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Also. ELTH is the OEM parts supplier for those sensors. They make good parts. It's likely that the ones you took out were the originals.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheLateJetta said:


> Also. ELTH is the OEM parts supplier for those sensors. They make good parts. It's likely that the ones you took out were the originals.


Thanks. Didn't know that ELTH is the OEM supplier...

The blue sensor was replaced by the PO before and it was the one I removed which had the VW-Audi engraving onto.

I guess all is left to do is swap the old ones and see how it runs (temp wise)


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## yosa12 (Oct 4, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> You need a shallow 36mm Socket for the filter housing. Yes that is a drain with the allen.


Thanks DUBZAK. :thumbup: The 36mm socket did the trick. The previous OP massively overtightened the filter and drain screw. Fortunately nothing was stripped/cracked.


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## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

So to replace my exhaust I'm thinking about picking up a setup from another user on here. It is straight tubing and a muffler, no additional resonator like most setups seem to have. I know that could be added later on, but I'm trying to get a feel for the sound before I pull the trigger on this setup.

Any thoughts/ideas? The last thing I want to do is sound like I threw a fart can on it.


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## corradojesus (Mar 6, 2002)

sorry for the nOOb question and not sorting through the entire thread but I was wondering what ECM part numbers are compatible with an OBD1 Coilpack Corrado since mine is dead.

Car is 5spd and part no. on ECM is 021 906 258 BA

Cheers :beer:


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Golfatron3 said:


> sorry for the nOOb question and not sorting through the entire thread but I was wondering what ECM part numbers are compatible with an OBD1 Coilpack Corrado since mine is dead.
> 
> Car is 5spd and part no. on ECM is 021 906 258 BA
> 
> Cheers :beer:


Only 93 and 94 Coil Pack ECU's will Work. Not sure of PN right now. 

If you want to use the 95 Passat ECU, you will need to change the engine harness and MAF harness to run that ecu. Different MAF sensor too the 95's use an OBD2 style MAF. :thumbup:


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## corradojesus (Mar 6, 2002)

DUBZAK said:


> Only 93 and 94 Coil Pack ECU's will Work. Not sure of PN right now.
> 
> If you want to use the 95 Passat ECU, you will need to change the engine harness and MAF harness to run that ecu. Different MAF sensor too the 95's use an OBD2 style MAF. :thumbup:


right they have the 4pin MAF as opposed to the 6pin one, I remember that from my mk2 vr.

Let me know if you come across any of the PN's. :beer:


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

92 vr6-

got a noise coming from the front end of my car - and it doesn't appear to be wheel bearing noise (checked for play and all that)

noise happenes when I make left turns (at speeds in excess of 15mph) and sounds like a wom-wom-wom noise (sorry for the poor onomatopoeia), or when I turn the wheel slightly to the left while still traveling straight. Same noise also happens when I make HARD or sloping rights (like on hairpins or extended onramps that make me travel perpendicular to the road I was just on).

jacked the car up to look for any rubbing or wear marks and wasn't able to find any signs and didn't see any play in the tie rods, ball joints, or control arms. Ball joints and swaybar endlinks are new. I did notice come cracks in the boot on my passenger axle on the end closest to the transmission. Rear wheel bearings are brand new (replaced them because I needed new brakes in the rear and thought that the noise was the rear - it wasn't).

RECAP:


noise when making left turns
noise when making hard right turns
replaced rear brakes (bearings, rotors, pads, etc...)
replaced ball joints, swaybar endlinks, strut mounts and bearings
crack in boot on transmission end of passenger axle
OP writes long-winded questions


while in-car, sound always comes from the same place, doesn't change in pitch or volume or speed up/down, and sounds like it's coming from front passenger side


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## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

93 corrado vr6

Does the flywheel need to go on any specific way? Typically there is a bolt or tab so that the flywheel only goes on one way. But im not really seeing anything like that on my flywheel. Engine is at cylinder #1 TDC now so if there is something on the flywheel that needs lined up Id appreciate the advise.

Thanks
Dave


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## Dahk Brown (Jan 21, 2010)

02GTIFREESKIER said:


> 93 corrado vr6
> 
> Does the flywheel need to go on any specific way? Typically there is a bolt or tab so that the flywheel only goes on one way. But im not really seeing anything like that on my flywheel. Engine is at cylinder #1 TDC now so if there is something on the flywheel that needs lined up Id appreciate the advise.
> 
> ...


only one way, one of the holes for the bolts should be a tit bit closer to the center of the flywheel, match up and your good.





there is an alarm system in my 93 slc, po told me it was a "karmann alarm" any knowledge of something like this? i searched couldnt find anything


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## Dahk Brown (Jan 21, 2010)

valet said:


> 92 vr6-
> 
> got a noise coming from the front end of my car - and it doesn't appear to be wheel bearing noise (checked for play and all that)
> 
> ...



could be cv joints, could be power steering rack if heard when making hard turns, i would look for leaks on rack, cracks on the boots could lead to foreign material getting in there and wearing the cv joints


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

Dahk Brown said:


> could be cv joints, could be power steering rack if heard when making hard turns, i would look for leaks on rack, cracks on the boots could lead to foreign material getting in there and wearing the cv joints



rack shouldn't be leaking as I just was looking at it the other day - the sound was there before and after I removed the power steering system (kept power rack just installed a loop between feed and return outlet/inlets). I have a set of new axles that I can install this weekend. I'll try and replace the old axles - unless someone else has any more suggestions


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## NW A4 (Jan 12, 2011)

Carrado is pretty rusty in the engine bay. Considering stripping, sanding and painting. good idea for a DIY or take it to a shop? Anyone paint?


----------



## GreenEyedBandit (Sep 18, 2003)

Heat and a/c controls do not work. I think it may be the blower motor but I wanted to know if there's anything else it may be before I hunt the classifieds for another blower motor. None of my fuses are blown but are there any relays anywhere I should check? It's a 1990 G60.


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

took a closer look at my wom-wom-wom noise today -

(see previous post to see WTF I'm on about)

took the brake components off of the car (passenger side) to try and isolate the noise. Had the car up on jackstands and let it idle in gear. Doesn't appear to be coming from transmission side of axle, but sound comes from outer cv area. rotated hub by hand and didn't feel or hear any binding or grinding - sound only comes when the car is in gear (put a engine stethoscope to the transmission and sound IS NOT coming from trans). when I hold onto the axle shaft and then rotate the hub by hand, the axle lags a bit behind the rotation of the hub (probably 2-4 mm of travel). doesn't appear to be wheel bearing as hub has no play and stethoscope can't pick up any grinding from that area


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

Anyone know where I could find something like this? Holds a relay and a fuse all together and is from my brothers land cruiser. I can't find them anywhere, all I can find are hella fused relays.


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

JamesS said:


> Anyone know where I could find something like this? Holds a relay and a fuse all together and is from my brothers land cruiser. I can't find them anywhere, all I can find are hella fused relays.



Radioshack


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## DrivenNails (Aug 31, 2008)

*forgot about this thread, so here THanks in advance!*

first off its a 1990 G60 engine and everything im about to say is stock. 

I had a problem with overheating last wednesday, since then i have replaced.

-thermostat, with a 160 degree one
-fan thermo switch located on the radiator
-and the 2 relays located on the fan assemb

I tested the switch with a test light and im getting no voltage, I looked at the fuse, not blown, and I am thinking it could be a relay (number 15) but not sure if im looking at the right one and have no way of checking if its actually the case. 

Basically even after trying to jump the fan thermo switch i get no voltage or current to any of this whole circuit except for the fuse. 

Does anyone have an idea what it could be?

I heard of a fan control module, what is that and where is it? Could that be the culprit?


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## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

Both drivers side and passenger side gray sun visor clips are broken on my 90' G60. Do I have to source clips for a Corrado or do other mk2 or mk3/B3 clips work as well?

thanks.
eddie


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheRealEddie said:


> Both drivers side and passenger side gray sun visor clips are broken on my 90' G60. Do I have to source clips for a Corrado or do other mk2 or mk3/B3 clips work as well?
> 
> thanks.
> eddie


Corrado specific or MK3 Cabrio ones IIRC


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## NW A4 (Jan 12, 2011)

Drivers door opens from inside, but not the outside. Any help?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Corrado specific or MK3 Cabrio ones IIRC


I think you are thinking of the sunvisor itself, if you want black clips they come from the Porsche 944



NW A4 said:


> Drivers door opens from inside, but not the outside. Any help?


Broken striker on the handle, change them out for the steel ones :thumbup:


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

valet said:


> Radioshack


 These things cannot be found at radioshack.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I think you are thinking of the sunvisor itself, if you want black clips they come from the Porsche 944...


 
:banghead: You're correct :thumbup:


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## ein (Feb 3, 2007)

JamesS said:


> Anyone know where I could find something like this? Holds a relay and a fuse all together and is from my brothers land cruiser. I can't find them anywhere, all I can find are hella fused relays.


Try here: http://rallylights.com/ they've got alot of stuff and are super helpful.


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## NW A4 (Jan 12, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Broken striker on the handle, change them out for the steel ones :thumbup:


http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Corrado--VR6_12v/Exterior/Body/Door/ES7360/

This cheap thing?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

NW A4 said:


> http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Corrado--VR6_12v/Exterior/Body/Door/ES7360/
> 
> This cheap thing?


Nope, although not a bad piece to replace, makes the door shut more smoothly. This is what you need http://www.originalgermanfolks.com/corrado.htm


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

JamesS said:


> These things cannot be found at radioshack.


I scoff at your liberal use of smilies but beg your pardon just the same. 

Try fry's then


They look just like a regular 30A relay holder with a special provision for 30A fuse. Just get the regular relay holders and add an inline fuse


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

primary difference?
im debating on which would be better for my corrado...

these:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Corrado--VR6_12v/Suspension/Coil_Overs/ES11635/

or
these:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_III--VR6_12v/Suspension/Coil_Overs/ES11628/

i know the second link coilovers are for mk3s but the corrado has a mk2 chassis, which also fits mk3 suspension...

$100 difference...
im assuming because the konigsports come with Koni shocks?

they seem to both lower the same amount and are both dampening adjustable


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

eurobred said:


> primary difference?
> im debating on which would be better for my corrado...
> 
> these:
> ...


Personally I don't like FKs....Seen to many seized/blowned examples :thumbdown:

For that amount of money you can buy something better, like ST's or Weitec's, or even Konis for about $200 more


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Personally I don't like FKs....Seen to many seized/blowned examples :thumbdown:
> 
> For that amount of money you can buy something better, like ST's or Weitec's, or even Konis for about $200 more


ST's Weitecs, and Konis arent dampening adjustable though... unless theres a model im not seeing..


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

eurobred said:


> ST's Weitecs, and Konis arent dampening adjustable though... unless theres a model im not seeing..


Koni's are dampening adjustable. Try reading product descriptions.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Great deal here for just $175 more: http://www.tdnparts.com/products/Coilover-kit.-KONI..html


----------



## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

*Sunroof*

My sunroof is only sliding open on one side. It stops of course because the other side isn't moving. I am thinking a cable is broken, can these replaced or do I need a whole new assembly?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> My sunroof is only sliding open on one side. It stops of course because the other side isn't moving. I am thinking a cable is broken, can these replaced or do I need a whole new assembly?


Rick,
it could very possibly be the cable, or just one of the slider sides, they tend to break as well. You'd just need to pop out your interior slider to see what's happening. If you have a glass moonroof, it can be replaced with a better MKIII assy :thumbup:

kits are available for the fix on the slider pieces, just not the cable IIRC


----------



## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

Thanks Chad. I have the metal roof, kind of like it. I will pop the roof and see if I can see anything binding, if it is I have my eye on another assy.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> Thanks Chad. I have the metal roof, kind of like it. I will pop the roof and see if I can see anything binding, if it is I have my eye on another assy.


No problem, I'm a fan of the metal roof myself :thumbup:

the EPP links if it ends up being the assy and not the cable, IIRC 1stvwparts has them too http://www.europeanperformanceprodu...---Front-Right---VW-Corrado-Passat-B3-B4.html

http://www.europeanperformanceprodu...t---Front-Left---VW-Corrado-Passat-B3-B4.html


----------



## Manic_VR (Aug 20, 2002)

*A/C and Fan Harness Connector Questions*

Hello all, need your expertise with four connectors at the fuse block. All the connectors pictured are part of the A/C and radiator fan harness. I am wiring up a mk2 Jetta with a harness out of a 1993 Corrado SLC. Your help in identifying these connectors and their location on the fuse block would be appreciated. 

Pics of the harness connectors:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Rick,
> it could very possibly be the cable, or just one of the slider sides, they tend to break as well. You'd just need to pop out your interior slider to see what's happening. If you have a glass moonroof, it can be replaced with a better MKIII assy :thumbup:
> 
> kits are available for the fix on the slider pieces, just not the cable IIRC


Is it possible that the MK3 metal sunroof cables are the same as the Corrado ones? Part No. anyone???
I'm asking because my buddy recently rebuilt the metal sunroof on his Corrado and bought the cables from the dealership here and I do recall telling me that they are the same...


----------



## NW A4 (Jan 12, 2011)

Rear subframe is rusty and engine mounting location has now fell off. Looking for a new rear subframe. What other subframes work? mk3 gti/jetta? And does it have to be a vr6 or just the mounts themselves?











Any help is appreciated as always


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

replaced my control arms on the SLC today and noticed that I appear to be missing two bolts (or so I think) 

 

looking at the picture, should there be bolts that scre up into the body (on both sides of the k frame) where I circled in red? 

note: pic is for reference only, it is not from my car


----------



## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

valet said:


> replaced my control arms on the SLC today and noticed that I appear to be missing two bolts (or so I think)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 um yup. 

The subframe mounts to the chassis in four places (2 per side). On each side a bolt goes through your circle there from the bottom into the chassis like you said. The other bolt goes through the rear control arm bushing. 

If you are missing those bolts it could be because the captured nuts inside the chassis are stripped or spinning free. Its a PITA to replace the nuts but there are threads here on the vortex with tips on how to do it. Knowing someone who can weld is a plus there. 

See if the bolts that were in the rear control arm bushings screw into your chassis where the front bolts go. Its the same thread size.


----------



## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

Experts, thanks for the visor clip info. :thumbup: 

-e


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

WTF is the name of that company that makes the 4x100 / 5x100 wheel hubs?????????


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

^^Adaptec Speedware? 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4799721


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^Adaptec Speedware?
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4799721


 where the hell would I be without you!


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

HavokRuels said:


> where the hell would I be without you!


 LOL :laugh:.........:beer:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^Adaptec Speedware?
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4799721


 I was thinking a machine shop that has an indexing table for half the cost.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheRealEddie said:


> Experts, thanks for the visor clip info. :thumbup:
> 
> -e


 :beer:


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

TheRealEddie said:


> um yup.
> 
> The subframe mounts to the chassis in four places (2 per side). On each side a bolt goes through your circle there from the bottom into the chassis like you said. The other bolt goes through the rear control arm bushing.
> 
> ...


 
can someone with vagcom see if the bolt is a m12-1.5-78 or the m12-1.5-65 (n10207803 or n10209603 respectively)


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

valet said:


> can someone with vagcom see if the bolt is a m12-1.5-78 or the m12-1.5-65 (n10207803 or n10209603 respectively)


 ETKA? 

Rear control arm/ kframe bolt is m12x78, N 10207803 

The bolt on the front of the kframe is m12x65, N 10209603


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

Etka ya. Sorry had multiple tabs open (including vagcat.com) and that's how I came to write vagcom


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

This question is brought up in the 12v thread as well as other oil opinion threads HOWEVER. Given the people who lurk / post on this thread I post this question. 

What oil brand / weight do you feel is the most appropriate for the both variants of Corrado?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

TheLateJetta said:


> This question is brought up in the 12v thread as well as other oil opinion threads HOWEVER. Given the people who lurk / post on this thread I post this question.
> 
> What oil brand / weight do you feel is the most appropriate for the both variants of Corrado?


 G60 during summer time you need an oil thick enough to chew on... 20w50


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

I am partial to Amsoil 5W40 or any other FULL SYNTHETIC. 


Some synthetics say full synthetic, but can contain up to 25% Conventional oil. 100% Syntetic is 100% ester oil. :thumbup:


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> I am partial to Amsoil 5W40 or any other FULL SYNTHETIC.
> 
> 
> Some synthetics say full synthetic, but can contain up to 25% Conventional oil. 100% Syntetic is 100% ester oil. :thumbup:


 Dubzak do you have examples of a false 'full synthetic' what should we avoid?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Some castrol, and Mobil 1's fall into that category. Few others too. 

100% Full Synthetics are Royal Purple, Motul, and Amsoil, and I believe ELF total.


----------



## paulytits (Jun 13, 2007)

so what are the chances that both my windows wont roll up? think it could be the fuses?... someone help lol 


i dont hear any clicks when pushing on the buttons either... hm...


----------



## Rosten (Dec 17, 2009)

Can someone tell me some info of the abt's cam i just got? 

Süko - ABT - T300301285


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

paulytits said:


> so what are the chances that both my windows wont roll up? think it could be the fuses?... someone help lol
> 
> 
> i dont hear any clicks when pushing on the buttons either... hm...


 If you're not hearing any clicks, and the fuses / relays are good, could be the window control module - located behind the driver rear "door" panel.


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

installing my koni coilovers and having trouble with the rear suspension. 

i bought this kit http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/..._Mounting_Kit_Rear_Both_Sides&products_id=864 from mjm and none of the hardware fits . The rubber busings go on fine, but when I tried to put the other stuff on, it won't fit over the threaded shaft. My old bilsteins had a 17mm shaft, and the konis appear to have a 19mm. Where can I pick up the appropriate hardware? Dealer?


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

looking for a roof rack for my corrado, so i can mount my track bike on top. 

any recommendations on universal brands that fit nice and where i can buy it?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

eurobred said:


> looking for a roof rack for my corrado, so i can mount my track bike on top.
> 
> any recommendations on universal brands that fit nice and where i can buy it?


 Yakima FTW


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

valet said:


> installing my koni coilovers and having trouble with the rear suspension.
> 
> i bought this kit http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/..._Mounting_Kit_Rear_Both_Sides&products_id=864 from mjm and none of the hardware fits . The rubber busings go on fine, but when I tried to put the other stuff on, it won't fit over the threaded shaft. My old bilsteins had a 17mm shaft, and the konis appear to have a 19mm. Where can I pick up the appropriate hardware? Dealer?


 The rear bushings will fit just the same. Any pics of how you have it setup?


----------



## Manic_VR (Aug 20, 2002)

valet said:


> installing my koni coilovers and having trouble with the rear suspension.
> 
> i bought this kit http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/..._Mounting_Kit_Rear_Both_Sides&products_id=864 from mjm and none of the hardware fits . The rubber busings go on fine, but when I tried to put the other stuff on, it won't fit over the threaded shaft. My old bilsteins had a 17mm shaft, and the konis appear to have a 19mm. Where can I pick up the appropriate hardware? Dealer?


 You need to use the hardware that came with the Koni coilovers. The rear Koni coilovers should have come with the hardware you need. Were they second hand?


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

Konis were used. Thinking I may have to drill out the stock hardware to fit until I can source the correct koni hardware


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Rosten said:


> Can someone tell me some info of the abt's cam i just got?
> 
> Süko - ABT - T300301285


 If they are like the VR6 Cams.... :banghead: I had a bad one. Lobe was incorrectly positioned on cyl#2, broken valve, damaged cylinder head, CRAKED a piston. :laugh: 

Hollow Composite Camshaft. 
Rare as FAHK.


----------



## ballski (Jun 13, 2006)

Hi gentlemen, 

What is the normal solution for turn signals with a shaved front bumper? Do most people use a "city light" in the headlight housing? 

Thanks


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

ballski00 said:


> Hi gentlemen,
> 
> What is the normal solution for turn signals with a shaved front bumper? Do most people use a "city light" in the headlight housing?
> 
> Thanks


 I've seen some folks install different lights in the headlight housing itself, but if you plan on using the city light, it will not be bright enough


----------



## ballski (Jun 13, 2006)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I've seen some folks install different lights in the headlight housing itself, but if you plan on using the city light, it will not be bright enough


 ok thx. so they use one of the existing bulbs? or fab another one in there; like maybe where the city light would go on an ecode?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

ballski00 said:


> ok thx. so they use one of the existing bulbs? or fab another one in there; like maybe where the city light would go on an ecode?


 If you are running NA headlights use the running light (would be where the hi beam is on the ecodes, closest to the grill) for a Turn Signal. Use the TS plug and get an amber bulb. Presto. 

If using E Codes, well your kinda effed and might wanna reconsider shaving them.


----------



## ballski (Jun 13, 2006)

DUBZAK said:


> If you are running NA headlights use the running light (would be where the hi beam is on the ecodes, closest to the grill) for a Turn Signal. Use the TS plug and get an amber bulb. Presto.
> 
> If using E Codes, well your kinda effed and might wanna reconsider shaving them.


 I am running NA lights now. THANKS


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

jalpizar said:


> Hi, the evap canister is really dirty inside. There's a filter component inside too, an advice to clean it?
> And, on bottom there's a tube without connection, it's normal?
> 01 Jetta AEG 2.0
> Thanks


 Hi, this is the Corrado forum. No one here has an AEG unless swapped. 

Jetta forum is THATAWAY---->


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

Any tips or tricks on installing that little C-clip that holds the wrist pin in place? I don't want to scratch or mar the piston trying to pry that sh!t on there. 

Also are piston ring pliers absolutely necessary when putting rings on? Any tips with that? 

You guys are awesome, as usual. Thanks! :thumbup::heart:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

iAco said:


> Any tips or tricks on installing that little C-clip that holds the wrist pin in place? I don't want to scratch or mar the piston trying to pry that sh!t on there.
> 
> Also are piston ring pliers absolutely necessary when putting rings on? Any tips with that?
> 
> You guys are awesome, as usual. Thanks! :thumbup::heart:


 Piston Ring Pliers are not always required, but if you do not use them, get another set of rings ready as you may break one. 

As for the wrist pin clips, pliers and patience. It's not the easiest because it takes time. Took me a couple of hours to assemble pistons and rods. 


Good Luck!


----------



## excreations (Jul 31, 2007)

DUBZAK said:


> Piston Ring Pliers are not always required, but if you do not use them, get another set of rings ready as you may break one.
> Good Luck!


 Was wondering this myself thanks.:thumbup: 
Had another question for you guys though, hoping you can help me out. Looking to replace my driver side door. Car in question is 90', I found a door from a 93'. I plan on keeping my old style door cars. So what I'm asking is will all the wiring from the 93' door, hook up alright with all the door card components (window switch, mirror adjusters, speaker, lock)? Or am I going to have to rewire the newer door with the older wiring? 
Thanks in advance. :beer::beer:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Piston Ring Pliers are not always required, but if you do not use them, get another set of rings ready as you may break one.
> 
> As for the wrist pin clips, pliers and patience. It's not the easiest because it takes time. Took me a couple of hours to assemble pistons and rods.
> 
> ...


 You have to heat the rods up to get the pins to slide in easily. 
http://www.youtube.com/user/fiatnutz#p/search/34/0TEAWO9P95Q


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

excreations said:


> Was wondering this myself thanks.:thumbup:
> Had another question for you guys though, hoping you can help me out. Looking to replace my driver side door. Car in question is 90', I found a door from a 93'. I plan on keeping my old style door cars. So what I'm asking is will all the wiring from the 93' door, hook up alright with all the door card components (window switch, mirror adjusters, speaker, lock)? Or am I going to have to rewire the newer door with the older wiring?
> Thanks in advance. :beer::beer:


 93 Wiring is different. You need to reuse your old wiring and electrical components (minus the Regulator) 


TheBurninator said:


> You have to heat the rods up to get the pins to slide in easily.
> http://www.youtube.com/user/fiatnutz#p/search/34/0TEAWO9P95Q


 Funny enough, the AC in my house was enough to cool them down to where they slid right in. It was hot and humid at the machine shop and he said the pins did not fit. lol


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Funny enough, the AC in my house was enough to cool them down to where they slid right in. It was hot and humid at the machine shop and he said the pins did not fit. lol


 Sometimes that is enough. You can also try freezing the pins like doing rear wheel bearings.


----------



## excreations (Jul 31, 2007)

DUBZAK said:


> 93 Wiring is different. You need to reuse your old wiring and electrical components (minus the Regulator)


 So I can take the wiring from the old door, and hook it up to regulator, with no issues? 
Any of you guys ever had to rewire the door? I can Imagine It's a pain in the ass.:banghead: 
Thanks for the info dubzak :thumbup:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

excreations said:


> So I can take the wiring from the old door, and hook it up to regulator, with no issues?
> Any of you guys ever had to rewire the door? I can Imagine It's a pain in the ass.:banghead:
> Thanks for the info dubzak :thumbup:


 No problem.  :beer: 

And IIRC the Door latch can stay, as well as the door handle. But Speaker and window switch have to go to the new harness. I cannot say as I have only the 93 Wiring diagrams in my possession. 

Just pull the old one out and compare would be best for visual confirmation. Label all plugs with Masking tape or something as you unplug them.


----------



## girdwood (Mar 10, 2004)

I need help sourcing gaskets and misc. trim pieces and what not... I don't want to get raped by the dealers, but I don't want to buy used stuff that's going to need replacing shortly after either. Is there a happy medium? A couple examples of what I need: 

the rain gutters/roof rails that run the length of the roof on both sides 
the plastic trim that goes over the hatch hinges on the outside 
rain tray, complete 
door sills/kick plates 
spoiler rack assembly (really just need the black housings, the 4 bolts cracked the housings trying to take it out) 
door jamb trim/rubber/weatherstripping 
rubber trim on the outside of the doors 
mirror base gaskets 
outside mirror plates 
mirror rubber trim on window guides 
etc.


----------



## bagoly14 (Jul 29, 2008)

rollercoasterracer said:


> I need help sourcing gaskets and misc. trim pieces and what not... I don't want to get raped by the dealers, but I don't want to buy used stuff that's going to need replacing shortly after either. Is there a happy medium? A couple examples of what I need:
> 
> the rain gutters/roof rails that run the length of the roof on both sides
> the plastic trim that goes over the hatch hinges on the outside
> ...


 I'm pretty sure you can find most of that stuff on ecstuning.com and 1stvwparts.com and 4seasontuning and EPP....


----------



## bagoly14 (Jul 29, 2008)

Also, since I'm a newbie myself to owning a corrado... 

Is it possible to wire the brake lights so the center two lights turn on as well when braking? 

IIRC only the side two brake lights are illuminated when breaking and the center two lights are only "night lights." 

Thanks.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

bagoly14 said:


> Also, since I'm a newbie myself to owning a corrado...
> 
> Is it possible to wire the brake lights so the center two lights turn on as well when braking?
> 
> ...


 Yes you can and you already have brake light wiring in the hatch


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

rollercoasterracer said:


> I need help sourcing gaskets and misc. trim pieces and what not... I don't want to get raped by the dealers, but I don't want to buy used stuff that's going to need replacing shortly after either. Is there a happy medium? A couple examples of what I need:
> 
> the rain gutters/roof rails that run the length of the roof on both sides
> the plastic trim that goes over the hatch hinges on the outside
> ...


You're going to need some lube too...


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

I have my cluster apart right now and want to change the lighting color... seems like there are a couple different guides/DIYs but they all seem to be a bit different. Is the LCD screen lit by an LED or does it have a film of some sort that needs to be replaced? Also - any source for the gel film to replace the long strip on the top? I can't seem to find large pieces for sale, just small squares. What exactly is that material called? Any idea what # bulbs I'll need, and how many? Sorry for that question, but the cluster is home and I'm away at my internship until Friday/Saturday..

Any suggestions/links/assistance would be much appreciated, trying to order what I need so that I can get it done this weekend or early next week :beer:

Oh yeah, 91 G60 as displayed over there


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

rollercoasterracer said:


> I need help sourcing gaskets and misc. trim pieces and what not... I don't want to get raped by the dealers, but I don't want to buy used stuff that's going to need replacing shortly after either. Is there a happy medium? A couple examples of what I need:
> 
> the rain gutters/roof rails that run the length of the roof on both sides
> the plastic trim that goes over the hatch hinges on the outside
> ...





elijah- said:


> You're going to need some lube too...


^^:laugh: but true......and I do believe most of them are NLA


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

rollercoasterracer said:


> I need help sourcing gaskets and misc. trim pieces and what not... I don't want to get raped by the dealers, but I don't want to buy used stuff that's going to need replacing shortly after either. Is there a happy medium? A couple examples of what I need:
> 
> the rain gutters/roof rails that run the length of the roof on both sides
> the plastic trim that goes over the hatch hinges on the outside
> ...



Also I would check the classifieds for some of this stuff. Might save you some money.


----------



## nchanson (Jun 28, 2005)

*idle issues*

To all who can help. I have a 1990 G60 that has an idle that hunts around. This can cause the car to speed up on it's own some times. This does not make for a happy wire. I have had my car in the shop numberous times. I have all new sensors. I have a new ECU. I have replaced the meter long vacuum tubel I have new plugs etc. I have new injector seals. I have had the mixture set, though it seems to move between adjustments. I have had the idle sete.

I am missing something here? thanks in advance. Neil.:banghead:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Yes, you are missing an ISV Cleaning and check. Idle Stabilizer Valve. 

Clean and check that and get back.


----------



## nchanson (Jun 28, 2005)

*Thanks but I have done that.*

Hi There, yes I have a new one on there. If anything it seems to work to well.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

elijah- said:


> You're going to need some lube too...


:laugh:



elijah- said:


> I have my cluster apart right now and want to change the lighting color... seems like there are a couple different guides/DIYs but they all seem to be a bit different. Is the LCD screen lit by an LED or does it have a film of some sort that needs to be replaced? Also - any source for the gel film to replace the long strip on the top? I can't seem to find large pieces for sale, just small squares. What exactly is that material called? Any idea what # bulbs I'll need, and how many? Sorry for that question, but the cluster is home and I'm away at my internship until Friday/Saturday..
> 
> Any suggestions/links/assistance would be much appreciated, trying to order what I need so that I can get it done this weekend or early next week :beer:
> 
> Oh yeah, 91 G60 as displayed over there


----------



## bagoly14 (Jul 29, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Yes you can and you already have brake light wiring in the hatch



I just found what I was looking for, using all 4 as fogs and brakes:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4726056

Thanks anyway.


----------



## girdwood (Mar 10, 2004)

TheBurninator said:


> Also I would check the classifieds for some of this stuff. Might save you some money.


:beer: Thanks, guys! As far as the 'outside mirror plates,' I wasn't sure how else to describe them, but the plates against the door, the little triangle pieces (what one could consider similar to a mirror delete/block off plate on other cars)

I'm going to be shopping the classifieds too, and a local guy that has about 3 Corrados he's parting out. Only problem is I want excellent shape stuff, hard to tell in some pictures online.


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

What fuel pump are you guys running on your VRT setups? I am not sure if I should do in tank or in line. Does it matter? Walbro, Bosch or Denso? I am leaning toward a walbro 255 in tank. I just need a little advice/input on this. Does it have to be corrado specific or do you just go universal?


----------



## Dustydelux (Apr 17, 2011)

*Seat belts*

Any one know were i can get Manuel seat belts from ? i want to convert them form the American automatics ones i have right now. Is there a parts number possibly?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Dustydelux said:


> Any one know were i can get Manuel seat belts from ? i want to convert them form the American automatics ones i have right now. Is there a parts number possibly?


Corrado parts Classifieds, ebay.de, other european forums etc.

I'm sure someone will chime in with the part numbers soon


----------



## SLC Simo (Jan 23, 2009)

*Corrado hatch in a Corrado, will it fit ??*

Hi
I'm planning to drive about 5 hrs to pick up a rear hatch and want to drive the Corrado instead of my Jeep.

Will the hatch fit into the rear w/ the rear seats down ???

Thank you for your help.
Cheers
Simo


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

SLC Simo said:


> Hi
> I'm planning to drive about 5 hrs to pick up a rear hatch and want to drive the Corrado instead of my Jeep.
> 
> Will the hatch fit into the rear w/ the rear seats down ???
> ...


measure the width of the hatch on your car and compare it to the diagonal width of the hatch area. If it can slide through diagonally, I would say your good. :thumbup:


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

Will turn signal lens's from a 92 SLC fit on a 91 G60 without modification to the bumper?  Please help, Thanks. :thumbup:


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

Oh and while I'm here I have one more question.. I plan on picking up a C headliner this weekend, does anyone know how long these things are? And have you transported one in a any cars rather then a truck? I could borrow my mom's car it's a Plymouth Sundance with a lift back. If it won't fit in there I'll have to hopefully borrow father in-laws truck.  Please help.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

krazy4dubz said:


> Will turn signal lens's from a 92 SLC fit on a 91 G60 without modification to the bumper?  Please help, Thanks. :thumbup:


No, You would need Fogs and Turns from the SLC and the Bumper must be trimmed to fit the housing. 


As for the headliner its the same size as the one in your car. Measure it I guess. A truck would be best as a Sundance is a tiny car.


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

krazy4dubz said:


> Oh and while I'm here I have one more question.. I plan on picking up a C headliner this weekend, does anyone know how long these things are? And have you transported one in a any cars rather then a truck? I could borrow my mom's car it's a Plymouth Sundance with a lift back. If it won't fit in there I'll have to hopefully borrow father in-laws truck.  Please help.


Doubt it would fit in a sundance, those look pretty small... the headliner can be very fragile as well. My guess is you'll need a van/suv/truck or a larger sedan. You might be able to squeeze it in the plymouth if the rear seat/trunk entry is wide enough, but itd probably end up hanging over your head or in an awkward position


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> ...and the Bumper must be trimmed to fit the housing...


Will makes it sound like this ^^ is a big job, which it isn't  I know this from personal experience since I have late 93+ assembly on my G60, you just need 10 min with a razor blade


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Will makes it sound like this ^^ is a big job, which it isn't  I know this from personal experience since I have late 93+ assembly on my G60, you just need 10 min with a razor blade


Thanks guys!! I love this thread, quick great answers. :thumbup: I think I will just try and get the truck, not worth the risk. And sounds like I will just upgrade to the late style t/s and fog setup then. Again thanks guys. :wave:


----------



## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

Yup. Been there, done that. Fits in sideways.



:thumbup:



SLC Simo said:


> Hi
> I'm planning to drive about 5 hrs to pick up a rear hatch and want to drive the Corrado instead of my Jeep.
> 
> Will the hatch fit into the rear w/ the rear seats down ???
> ...


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

I am gathering parts for an obd2 swap. I wanted to know if someone could tell me exactly which ecu I need. I am looking at them and there are alot of different numbers and I want to make sure I get the right one. The motor receiving the goods is a 1995 VR6 coilpack motor from a GTI, Manual Trans. TIA


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## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> I am gathering parts for an obd2 swap. I wanted to know if someone could tell me exactly which ecu I need. I am looking at them and there are alot of different numbers and I want to make sure I get the right one. The motor receiving the goods is a 1995 VR6 coilpack motor from a GTI, Manual Trans. TIA


theyre all the same, aslong as you know its from a vr6 and the last 3 numbers are 259, youre good to go.


----------



## SLC Simo (Jan 23, 2009)

lmurray said:


> Yup. Been there, done that. Fits in sideways.
> 
> 
> 
> :thumbup:


Thanks, you just made next weekend's drive much more enjoyable.


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

Das.Rado said:


> theyre all the same, aslong as you know its from a vr6 and the last 3 numbers are 259, youre good to go.


I thought there was a difference between manual trans and auto trans ecu's. Unless thats what the 259 numbers suggest.


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## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

1991 g60. I want to add an oil pressure gauge today. There are two sensors on the oil filter bracket which port can I use the one closest to the motor or the radiator. Also do I have to t it off or can I just eliminate the sensor. Any I'll effects?


----------



## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

You'll need to tee it, because the idiot light in the cluster depends on getting the signal from it.

It's the larger of the two sensors by the filter housing. Can be black/brown or blue.

Lloyd




nu2dubbing said:


> 1991 g60. I want to add an oil pressure gauge today. There are two sensors on the oil filter bracket which port can I use the one closest to the motor or the radiator. Also do I have to t it off or can I just eliminate the sensor. Any I'll effects?


----------



## V8Star (Jun 27, 2007)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> I thought there was a difference between manual trans and auto trans ecu's. Unless thats what the 259 numbers suggest.


Once installed you can always recode the ECU with a vag com. If I remember correctly its just changing a 0007 number to 0001 (not actual numbers) but there are many people who have done this with write ups here on the Vortex.


----------



## jamguy (Sep 2, 2006)

*Automatic seatbelts on a European manual seatbelts version, is it possible ?*

Hi,

I have a European 92 VR6 with manual seat belts, I was wonder if it is possible to replace them with automatic seat belts from the American version, I'm trying to figure out if there a place to the auto SB brackets.

Thanks


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

V8Star said:


> Once installed you can always recode the ECU with a vag com. If I remember correctly its just changing a 0007 number to 0001 (not actual numbers) but there are many people who have done this with write ups here on the Vortex.


Sounds easy enough. Thanks...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jamguy said:


> Hi,
> 
> I have a European 92 VR6 with manual seat belts, I was wonder if it is possible to replace them with automatic seat belts from the American version, I'm trying to figure out if there a place to the auto SB brackets.
> 
> Thanks


I will trade you...


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

Thanks for the help with the oil pressure gauge now I have another dilemma. Again a 91 g60 I just replaced my doors with shaved ones because my old doors were filled with bondo. The donar doors are also from a 91. The passenger was no problem bolted it on and the door shut like it was the og. Now the drivers door I must lift it to shut it I did not have any problems with the factory door closing so I'm guessing the tabs are fine. I have been loosening and lifting the door all day also adjusted the striker pin and the door will close but the body lines don't line up. Any advice or tricks


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

nu2dubbing said:


> Thanks for the help with the oil pressure gauge now I have another dilemma. Again a 91 g60 I just replaced my doors with shaved ones because my old doors were filled with bondo. The donar doors are also from a 91. The passenger was no problem bolted it on and the door shut like it was the og. Now the drivers door I must lift it to shut it I did not have any problems with the factory door closing so I'm guessing the tabs are fine. I have been loosening and lifting the door all day also adjusted the striker pin and the door will close but the body lines don't line up. Any advice or tricks


sounds like the hing is sagging due to wear. Did you use the original hinge or the one from the donar?


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

Donar are they replaceable without a welder


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

Just went outside with the door open I can not lift the door up and down as in there doesn't seem to have any more play then my original doors


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

RedYellowWhite said:


> '90 G60: I recently changed the blue and black coolant temp sensors.
> 
> The old ones were both genuine VW parts. My coolant temp was always ok, when temps reached 90* the fan kicked on and temps dropped to normal. I changed them just for preventive maintenance...
> 
> ...





TheLateJetta said:


> Also. ELTH is the OEM parts supplier for those sensors. They make good parts. It's likely that the ones you took out were the originals.





RedYellowWhite said:


> Thanks. Didn't know that ELTH is the OEM supplier...
> 
> The blue sensor was replaced by the PO before and it was the one I removed which had the VW-Audi engraving onto.
> 
> I guess all is left to do is swap the old ones and see how it runs (temp wise)


Well, I finally found some time to swap the old sensors in (both oe with VW-Audi part # on them), took the Corrado for a ride and strangely enough coolant temps are back to normal. So, perhaps the new sensors I bought are giving wrong numbers  

Anyway, I'm just happy the issue resolved :thumbup:


----------



## G0to60 (Jun 23, 2003)

I have an embarrassing question that I should know the answer too but am not sure. I need to replace the alternator on my G60. I've pulled it off before for various reasons and it's a big pain in the ass as it is really tight on the bottom bolt location. Is there an easy way other than just pulling and lightly tapping it to get it off the bracket? Maybe some type of trick that I haven't thought of? Thanks.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

G0to60 said:


> I have an embarrassing question that I should know the answer too but am not sure. I need to replace the alternator on my G60. I've pulled it off before for various reasons and it's a big pain in the ass as it is really tight on the bottom bolt location. Is there an easy way other than just pulling and lightly tapping it to get it off the bracket? Maybe some type of trick that I haven't thought of? Thanks.


The bolt has to come out. Get some channel locks on that thing to hold the bolt and zap it off with an impact gun.


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## G0to60 (Jun 23, 2003)

I know all the bolts have to come out.  It's just a matter of the lower connection on the main bracket being so tight even with all the bolts out. I've always gotten it off and on but it's fought me every time.


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## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

Ok back to my door alignment problem when I install a washer at the top tab it lifts the door and it lines up alot better so I'm guessing I bent the tab slightly while installing the door. Can I simple bend the tab forward a little? Any advise on how to do this. Also any chance I can get someone to measure the gap between the front of the door / fender


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## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

ARP connecting rod question. 

I just installed the piston assembly into the block today. ARP says to torque the bolts to 40 lbs and the Bentley says 22 lbs plus a 1/4 turn. I know the ARP bolts require the extra torque, but do I still need tighten it that extra 1/4 turn?

Also what is the reccomended torque specs for the ARP head bolts? They were already on the car and I don't know the kit number so I can't search it on the internet. 

Thanks in advanced. :heart:


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

iAco said:


> ARP connecting rod question.
> 
> I just installed the piston assembly into the block today. ARP says to torque the bolts to 40 lbs and the Bentley says 22 lbs plus a 1/4 turn. I know the ARP bolts require the extra torque, but do I still need tighten it that extra 1/4 turn?
> 
> ...


There is a torquing sequence you need to do with the rod bolts. The information is on ARP's website or even here on Vortex int he 12V forum. I cannot remember exactly, but it is a sequence of 3 torque specs, and no 1/4 turn as these are not stretch bolts. 

If not using ARP Assembly lube, the headstuds must be torqued in sequence to 40 then 60 then 80, and again if not using ARP's assembly lube, a retorque to 80 must be done again after 2 heat cycles. 

Good luck. You'll be fine though.


----------



## VR6Nutt (Dec 18, 2003)

Anyone know the length of the upper starter bolt that threads into the front motor mount on a VR6? I think its 10mm x 1.75 x ~6" Mine rattled loose and is somewhere on the freeway.


----------



## jhg6jhg6 (Mar 3, 2010)

What is the stock MKIV R32 exhaust size, and is there really that much of a noticable difference between 264/260 and 268/264 or 272/272 cams on a 3.2L VR6?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

jhg6jhg6 said:


> What is the stock MKIV R32 exhaust size, and is there really that much of a noticable difference between 264/260 and 268/264 or 272/272 cams on a 3.2L VR6?


2.5" and of course there is a difference between those cams. Research how cams effect a power band, and decide where you want your power. Select the cam appropriate to that. 

BTW.....What is your Corrado question?


.:R32 Forum is -------> thataway.


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## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

DUBZAK said:


> There is a torquing sequence you need to do with the rod bolts. The information is on ARP's website or even here on Vortex int he 12V forum. I cannot remember exactly, but it is a sequence of 3 torque specs, and no 1/4 turn as these are not stretch bolts.
> 
> If not using ARP Assembly lube, the headstuds must be torqued in sequence to 40 then 60 then 80, and again if not using ARP's assembly lube, a retorque to 80 must be done again after 2 heat cycles.
> 
> Good luck. You'll be fine though.


This is what the ARP website says for the rod bolts:










It says nothing in regards to torquing sequence. When I dropped the rods off to the machine shop to get resized, that should have taken out the "stretch" in the bolts.

I also have the blue ARP assembly lube that I used on the rods and will use on the head bolts.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

As long as you are using the assembly lube, torque them to 40 and be done with it. The Stretch method is used for when not using their assembly lube.


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

DUBZAK said:


> As long as you are using the assembly lube, torque them to 40 and be done with it. The Stretch method is used for when not using their assembly lube.


I appreciate it. I just did a crazy search in the archives and they also say to re-torque them because they don't mention the assembly lube.


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

I have two g60 airboxes, one has a pipe leading to the rear with a door which opens and closes (from my na car) and one does not (european car). Which one is better? The euro one needs repairs so I am not sure if it is worth fixing.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

JamesS said:


> I have two g60 airboxes, one has a pipe leading to the rear with a door which opens and closes (from my na car) and one does not (european car). Which one is better? The euro one needs repairs so I am not sure if it is worth fixing.


If I keep an airbox I ditch the hot air intake that runs to the back... It is for cold starts


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> If I keep an airbox I ditch the hot air intake that runs to the back... It is for cold starts


2nd'd.....that is only for use to warm up the motor faster. Depending on how cold your climate is and if you drive your car year round would determine how useful the NA one is.


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

Yeah I am sticking with the euro one, I would have to transfer more than just the airbox to get the cold start up part working properly.


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## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> If I keep an airbox I ditch the hot air intake that runs to the back... It is for cold starts


Yeah I ditched the hot air tube as well :thumbup:


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

I took out the snorkel too, the intake sounds awesome now.


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## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

DUBZAK said:


> 2nd'd.....that is only for use to warm up the motor faster. Depending on how cold your climate is and if you drive your car year round would determine how useful the NA one is.


True, and there is a flap inside anyway that closes the air to the motor once the car is warmed up no?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

NYCGTM said:


> True, and there is a flap inside anyway that closes the air to the motor once the car is warmed up *YES*


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## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

DUBZAK said:


>


One more, that's IF your lines are all solid with no leaks and flap can actually close when it's supposed to haha


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

alright so i have a few questions...

1. Installed my coilovers recently, along with the heavy duty strut bushings/bearings from ECStuning... when i finished the install, the shafts/cups were not centered with the strut tower... they are pointed inward, looks like they are camber adjusted but my wheels arent cambered at all... ive installed suspension numerous times before on mk2 and mk3s. but never corrados. so is this normal? been driving on them for a week now, no problems at all, no clunking, nothing...

2. EGR valve... i was told on the VR, you are robbed for about 5% of your horsepower, if you disconnect and plug the vacuum line, the EGR will not function and you will gain that power back? of course it will be reconnected come smog time.

3. Anyone have a specific/detailed writeup on how to do the 4-brakelight mod?

4. I have a moon roof from a B3 passat on my corrado, tilts up and of course opens as usual... but i see some corrados in pictures that have their moon roof tilted much higher than i can see mine go. is there a way to make it tilt higher?


thank you


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

eurobred said:


> alright so i have a few questions...
> 
> 1. Installed my coilovers recently, along with the heavy duty strut bushings/bearings from ECStuning... when i finished the install, the shafts/cups were not centered with the strut tower... they are pointed inward, looks like they are camber adjusted but my wheels arent cambered at all... ive installed suspension numerous times before on mk2 and mk3s. but never corrados. so is this normal? been driving on them for a week now, no problems at all, no clunking, nothing...
> 
> ...


Any pics of the strut mounts? Might help a bit.

Replace your exhaust manifolds with Passat ones. No more EGR 

I think there was something in the FAQ about the 4-brake light mod

Could be a difference in the moon roof... IIRC B4 fits better...


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## GranTouringInjection (Dec 21, 2010)

I always wanted a Corrado VR6 Turbo, I finally found enough time to go through the whole FAQ and this whole thread, lets see how much Corrado info I soak up by the time I'm done


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## SandraD (Jun 8, 2011)

*OK, since you asked...I have a problem with my 2004 R32.*

Last month, my husband was driving my '04 R32, and it just stalled dead in the middle of the road. He got it restarted long enough to get it to a parking lot, where we were unable to restart it, and it was taken to our local VW dealership. Initially, our Ross-Tech meter connected, at least partially to the ECU, and was able to connect to the other systems, but then was unable to talk to the ECM. The mechanic diagnosed the problem as a bad ECM, and they want $1800 for a new one. We found one used for $500, and the dealer claims that the used one is bad as well. Since then, they've been able to get the engine to run for 10 mins before it shuts off, and they still claim that the ECU is "overheating". I'm dubious to their claim, and I asked them to replace the contact close relay, which powers the ECM. The service department continued to claim that there is no such relay on the 3.2L VR6, and only relented after I personally showed the mechanic the part in question. This didn't fix the problem, though. The crankshaft position sensor has been replaced, to no avail, and we're back to square one, and a new ECM has been ordered. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with overheating of the fuel pump sensor, or the camshaft position sensors? What other components could mimic an overheating ECM? I'm very new to car maintenance, a very green novice, but have learned a lot in a short few weeks. I have very knowledgeable and supportive friends, but little experience, at least in repairing R32s.
I want my car back!! Thanks.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

SandraD said:


> Last month, my husband was driving my '04 R32, and it just stalled dead in the middle of the road. He got it restarted long enough to get it to a parking lot, where we were unable to restart it, and it was taken to our local VW dealership. Initially, our Ross-Tech meter connected, at least partially to the ECU, and was able to connect to the other systems, but then was unable to talk to the ECM. The mechanic diagnosed the problem as a bad ECM, and they want $1800 for a new one. We found one used for $500, and the dealer claims that the used one is bad as well. Since then, they've been able to get the engine to run for 10 mins before it shuts off, and they still claim that the ECU is "overheating". I'm dubious to their claim, and I asked them to replace the contact close relay, which powers the ECM. The service department continued to claim that there is no such relay on the 3.2L VR6, and only relented after I personally showed the mechanic the part in question. This didn't fix the problem, though. The crankshaft position sensor has been replaced, to no avail, and we're back to square one, and a new ECM has been ordered. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with overheating of the fuel pump sensor, or the camshaft position sensors? What other components could mimic an overheating ECM? I'm very new to car maintenance, a very green novice, but have learned a lot in a short few weeks. I have very knowledgeable and supportive friends, but little experience, at least in repairing R32s.
> I want my car back!! Thanks.


Totally wrong forum....

But I am going to throw this out there... Did the vagcom work on this car before this happened?

My audi can't use certain rosstech cables (CAN-BUS car)

If the car is only running for 10 minutes I would look into the immobilizer and double check the k-line wire from the ECU isn't broken as well. That one wire is what provides diagnostics to the port.

Also verify the fuse is still good for the diag port.


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## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

^ Wow, good move Kyle :thumbup: and I bet your being nice cause it's a girl this time :laugh:


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

NYCGTM said:


> ^ Wow, good move Kyle :thumbup: and I bet your being nice cause it's a girl this time :laugh:


Na, it was more because I sounded like she was getting owned by the stealership. No leg humping when the word "husband" is involed


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## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

Suitcase muffler is boned, car is in the shop, can't be welded up to be fixed... can it just be removed and replaced with straight piping or would that cause issues? It's a G60, so I'm also wondering if it'll sound like a fart canned civic.


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## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

TheBurninator said:


> Na, it was more because I sounded like she was getting owned by the stealership. No leg humping when the word "husband" is involed


Maybe she was warned before she posted here and was HIGHLY recommended to use the "husband" word 



elijah- said:


> Suitcase muffler is boned, car is in the shop, can't be welded up to be fixed... can it just be removed and replaced with straight piping or would that cause issues? It's a G60, so I'm also wondering if it'll sound like a fart canned civic.


I had a straight pipe with the cat gutted (long ago) on my G60 running high boost and didn't sound like a civic at all. If you have time and money, there should be a few nice exhausts here for sale.
Heck I have a stock G60 one if your interested. Where ya located?


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## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

NYCGTM said:


> Maybe she was warned before she posted here and was HIGHLY recommended to use the "husband" word
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I am located in western mass/southern ct, depending on the time of the week.. A stock g60 setup would be fabulous, I think all I really need is the suitcase but let me know what you've got and maybe we can work something out.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


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## SandraD (Jun 8, 2011)

*Thanks for your suggestions.*

Sorry, I didn't realize that this was the wrong forum to post such problems. Thank you for the ideas~I'll see what else I can stump the technician at the "stealership" with, at least until I pull the plug on this ordeal and find a competent mechanic.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

SandraD said:


> Sorry, I didn't realize that this was the wrong forum to post such problems. Thank you for the ideas~I'll see what else I can stump the technician at the "stealership" with, at least until I pull the plug on this ordeal and find a competent mechanic.


Yeah, this is the Corrado forum 

Good luck with the R32 though. You might want to post in your regional forum as well to help find a good shop that can help you diagnose the issue.


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## eurosportgti (Jan 15, 2003)

TheBurninator said:


> Yeah, this is the Corrado forum
> 
> Good luck with the R32 though. You might want to post in your regional forum as well to help find a good shop that can help you diagnose the issue.


where is this nice Kyle stuff comming from? Im not used to it and not so sure i like it:laugh::thumbup:


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

eurosportgti said:


> where is this nice Kyle stuff comming from? Im not used to it and not so sure i like it:laugh::thumbup:


HAHA whatever you say captain sell out :laugh::laugh:


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## SandraD (Jun 8, 2011)

*Proper forum*

Thank you, Kyle. I found the proper forum. I'm almost as bad navigating forums as working on cars. I'm just desperate to get my R back; making home hospice visits in my truck is killing me, ga$ wi$e, and it's not nearly as fun as it is in the Dub.


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## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

Just remove it. It'll sound nice. I've run my last 2 cars this way. (cat, no suitcase, and an aftermarket muffler). I've run a downpipe w/ no cat, no suitcase and a muffler and it was too damn loud for me. To each their own.



elijah- said:


> Suitcase muffler is boned, car is in the shop, can't be welded up to be fixed... can it just be removed and replaced with straight piping or would that cause issues? It's a G60, so I'm also wondering if it'll sound like a fart canned civic.


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## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

lmurray said:


> Just remove it. It'll sound nice. I've run my last 2 cars this way. (cat, no suitcase, and an aftermarket muffler). I've run a downpipe w/ no cat, no suitcase and a muffler and it was too damn loud for me. To each their own.


Think I may just do that. Thanks!

Now, I have my cluster apart to change the colors, but being an earlier corrado it has needle resting pins. Don't want to break them, just pull out with pliers and a rag or?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


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## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

I just changed my intake manifold for a 2.9 euro one, but it seems like the PO was OBDII cause the hole were the ISV/foam box is supposed to go is caped. Its the one right after the TB and now the car won't stay runnning it just start and die immediatly... 

Anyone can help me out i'll try getting a pic...


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## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

Can anyone get PN to this? It is the lock mechanism to the hatch.


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## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

Got my LCD filters swapped,can't wait to see what it looks like. Now I just need my damn car back.

Didn't need to pull the needles to get the lcd screens out, just gently pulled the tach, speedo, and fuel/temp gauges straight out.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

TheBurninator said:


> Any pics of the strut mounts? Might help a bit.
> 
> Replace your exhaust manifolds with Passat ones. No more EGR
> 
> ...


I'll take pics of the struts when I get a chance. And my moon/sun roof is from a B4 to correct that info. How do I make it tilt higher?


----------



## need4speed2345 (May 12, 2005)

OK couple small questions.. First does anyone have a picture of how the steering column wiring is ran?

Second i just swapped a 02a into my rado which had the auto. There appears to be only 2 connections on the whole transmission one in the rear near the diff and one on the shifter. The rear i believe is the speed sensor and i hooked it up just like the auto.. however its the front one that has me stumped!! I do have a 2 wire connector from the auto that is dangling is that suppose to plug into the new transmission?? Also what do i do with the left over auto wires?


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## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

Not an expert but i believe the one by the shifter is your back up light switch. When going from auto to manual trans you are required by state law to also hook up a super loud back up alarm. Do it.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

need4speed2345 said:


> OK couple small questions.. First does anyone have a picture of how the steering column wiring is ran?
> 
> Second i just swapped a 02a into my rado which had the auto. There appears to be only 2 connections on the whole transmission one in the rear near the diff and one on the shifter. The rear i believe is the speed sensor and i hooked it up just like the auto.. however its the front one that has me stumped!! I do have a 2 wire connector from the auto that is dangling is that suppose to plug into the new transmission?? Also what do i do with the left over auto wires?


What are the wire colors for that connnector? I can check to see if it is reverse light when I am in front of the computer.


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## Rosten (Dec 17, 2009)

Need some wheel help ;D

Gonna buy a set of porsche clubsports. Front 7" et 65, Rear 9" et 60. 
Are they gonna fit at all? 

Front tires are 165/45/16 and the rear tires are 205/45/16. 

And i need some 5x130 to 4x100 adapters, so what size i should get?


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Rosten said:


> Need some wheel help ;D
> 
> Gonna buy a set of porsche clubsports. Front 7" et 65, Rear 9" et 60.
> Are they gonna fit at all?
> ...


Huge ones :sly:.......at least for the 7''s

If your fenders aren't pulled I would say try to bring the offset (ET) close to et20-25 for a flush, slightly tucked look...


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## Rosten (Dec 17, 2009)

> RedYellowWhite
> 
> Huge ones .......at least for the 7''s
> 
> If your fenders aren't pulled I would say try to bring the offset (ET) close to et20-25 for a flush, slightly tucked look...


Thanks alot bro! 

Next month well see how they fit. Wish me luck fellas!


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

_Personally I haven't seen this done before, so this is the reason I'm asking:_ Is it safe to fill and redrill outer lips on 3pc splits?


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## 2925 (Dec 11, 2007)

What are my options for clutch master&slave cylinders?


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## mattsgota325i (Mar 2, 2006)

just did wheel bearing hubs tierods balljoints swaybar endlinks on my 93 vr6. when i put the wheels on and set the car down the wheels "camber out" its on the stock suspension atm with stock wheels. any ideas?


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

eurobred said:


> I'll take pics of the struts when I get a chance. And my moon/sun roof is from a B4 to correct that info. How do I make it tilt higher?


 also, wana know this...
it never does this normally.

but if i open her up a little, take the RPMs to about 6k, after a few gears, i smell something... kinda like what you smell after fireworks have been shot off, similar... any suggestions?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Seb--Morin said:


> I just changed my intake manifold for a 2.9 euro one, but it seems like the PO was OBDII cause the hole were the ISV/foam box is supposed to go is caped. Its the one right after the TB and now the car won't stay runnning it just start and die immediatly...
> 
> Anyone can help me out i'll try getting a pic...


Either Re-weld the manifold or replace it with the old one and ask for a refund. Or go OBD2.



RedYellowWhite said:


> _Personally I haven't seen this done before, so this is the reason I'm asking:_ Is it safe to fill and redrill outer lips on 3pc splits?


Drill Blank Lips ONLY. Or add extra holes. 



2925 said:


> What are my options for clutch master&slave cylinders?


FTE OEM Branded is preferred, unless you like bleeding and changing cylinders more than you should have to.


----------



## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

bpodlesnik said:


> Can anyone get PN to this? It is the lock mechanism to the hatch.


Okay forget about the PN, I just need to know where to get another one. I think I've googled every possibility and could only find the lock actuator. Sorry if this is to noobish of a question


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Junkyard, 
Dealer
Or OEM Part Suppliers. 

Or Do the Mod to use a trunk popper and use the Jetta Lock.


----------



## VR6Nutt (Dec 18, 2003)

bpodlesnik said:


> Okay forget about the PN, I just need to know where to get another one. I think I've googled every possibility and could only find the lock actuator. Sorry if this is to noobish of a question


If its the same PN as a Scirocco, I may have one NIB.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

bpodlesnik said:


> Can anyone get PN to this? It is the lock mechanism to the hatch.


There are 3 part numbers... Need more info from you.

Year of car, does it have factory alarm or not?


----------



## bpodlesnik (Mar 28, 2010)

It is a 1992 SLC and no it does not have a factory alarm.


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

Hey guys haven't been here in a while. I'm getting a fuel odor inside the car. Doesn't smell outside the car, or under the hood, so I'm thinking it's an issue with fuel pump seals / gaskets? Charcoal canister has been deleted. I don't appear to be leaking gas.

If it is the fuel pump, which of the seals / gaskets would be advised to be replaced? I'm thinking 2, 17, 8 and 10? And do I really need a special tool to remove the assembly?


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

What are your guys reccomendations on what engine oil to use on a "new" motor with new rings and rod bearings? I've been doing some light reading and some say straight 30w oil for the first couple hundred miles then switch the non synthetic for about 1500 miles or so. Then I can switch synthetic right?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

iAco said:


> What are your guys reccomendations on what engine oil to use on a "new" motor with new rings and rod bearings? I've been doing some light reading and some say straight 30w oil for the first couple hundred miles then switch the non synthetic for about 1500 miles or so. Then I can switch synthetic right?


20-50 then switch to synthetic

It was also suggested to me by a guy that builds VW race motors to use diesel oil for break-in


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> 20-50 then switch to synthetic
> 
> It was also suggested to me by a guy that builds VW race motors to use diesel oil for break-in


20w50 is too thick for a VR6 especially one with new bearings. 20w50 is fine for a tired vr6 that may have a little blow by. 

Diesel Oil is a 5w40 (or at least one of them is) and I would break in the car under a 10w40 or 10w30 Dinosaur Oil (Conventional), Change at 500 Miles, then another 1000. Switch to synthetic after a complete 3000 miles with conventional. 5w40 synthetic is what I run.


----------



## need4speed2345 (May 12, 2005)

pej said:


> Hey guys haven't been here in a while. I'm getting a fuel odor inside the car. Doesn't smell outside the car, or under the hood, so I'm thinking it's an issue with fuel pump seals / gaskets? Charcoal canister has been deleted. I don't appear to be leaking gas.
> 
> If it is the fuel pump, which of the seals / gaskets would be advised to be replaced? I'm thinking 2, 17, 8 and 10? And do I really need a special tool to remove the assembly?


Chances are it's cause of the fuel canister delete. Also while ur at it change injector o-rings as well. Few bucks. Last thing I would change is seals in the tank.


----------



## cstanley19 (Sep 23, 2006)

I am looking for a part number for the little white clips that go on the ends of the hatch linkage..


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

DUBZAK said:


> 20w50 is too thick for a VR6 especially one with new bearings. 20w50 is fine for a tired vr6 that may have a little blow by.
> 
> Diesel Oil is a 5w40 (or at least one of them is) and I would break in the car under a 10w40 or 10w30 Dinosaur Oil (Conventional), Change at 500 Miles, then another 1000. Switch to synthetic after a complete 3000 miles with conventional. 5w40 synthetic is what I run.


Thanks for the info. So I should stick with the conventional 10w40 until 3000 miles and change it at 500, 1500, and then lastly at 3000 where I can switch to synthetic?


----------



## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

DUBZAK said:


> Diesel Oil is a 5w40


The industry standard for diesel oil is 15w40. I forget what the drawback to diesel oil is but I know the advantage especially for break in is that is contains more detergent molecules.


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

15w40 is being replaced with 5w40


----------



## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

For what? The new emmisions shiz? We just got an 8 hour class on the changes that are going to be made to comply with tier4 final. It is absurd, our off highway snowcats are going to require urea and egr.


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

need4speed2345 said:


> Chances are it's cause of the fuel canister delete. Also while ur at it change injector o-rings as well. Few bucks. Last thing I would change is seals in the tank.


But why would the charcoal canister delete cause the fuel smell _inside_ the car? Both before starting and while driving? The vent line from the tank is still under the hood, just has a little filter on the end to keep dirt out.

I had the whole fuel rail out with the injectors in it and it held pressure without leaking.

Thanks for your input! :beer:


----------



## need4speed2345 (May 12, 2005)

pej said:


> But why would the charcoal canister delete cause the fuel smell _inside_ the car? Both before starting and while driving? The vent line from the tank is still under the hood, just has a little filter on the end to keep dirt out.
> 
> I had the whole fuel rail out with the injectors in it and it held pressure without leaking.
> 
> Thanks for your input! :beer:


Well the canister dose still prevent some fuel smell despite what others say. I can tell you from experience that the following makes it smell like fuel:

Some of these are g60 specific.
Fuel injector o-rings
Intake manifold gasket torn or not seated properly
Pcv system has a leak or just a filter on it ( this happened to me on g60)


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

Hey guys, Is is possible to get the fan shroud out of a VR 
w/o taking the whole front end off? Sounds like the bearing is shot.


----------



## KT54g60 (Aug 1, 2003)

this is probably a really silly question, but...

new windshield, new wipers, still just smears around when i use them in the rain lol

so... springs in the arms?

tried to search "wiper conversion" to see about switching to a single blade, but no results.
probably doing it wrong (the search)


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

pej said:


> Hey guys haven't been here in a while. I'm getting a fuel odor inside the car. Doesn't smell outside the car, or under the hood, so I'm thinking it's an issue with fuel pump seals / gaskets? Charcoal canister has been deleted. I don't appear to be leaking gas.
> 
> If it is the fuel pump, which of the seals / gaskets would be advised to be replaced? I'm thinking 2, 17, 8 and 10? And do I really need a special tool to remove the assembly


I had a similar issue. It turned out to be leaky fuel lines at the top of fuel pump assembly. Try removing the access panel, start the car and move the fuel lines around at the top of the assembly. With my issue there was no fuel drips or visiable leaks under the car. It believe it was because the fuel evaporated before it was able to make it to the bottom of the tank. Also the lines wouldnt leak at idle unless i moved them around a little. I hope this helps. :beer:


----------



## excreations (Jul 31, 2007)

Was considering buying a new wheel to replace the original. I really enjoy the dish the original has, along with deeper dish wheels in general. Was looking to get something like an older momo mod7 ( the leather version), or an older momo prototipo. I'm a bit worried about the wheel sticking out to far with the momo hub. Have any of you guys ran a deeper dish wheel with the momo hub? Or does anyone know the additional mm the momo hub gives?


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

I know this is a very basic question, but I just had my coolant leak fixed and I was wondering what do you guys recommend to run for coolant in a 93 Vr with no mods. I see there is like three different kinds G11, G12, and G12 super plus. I am also considering the water wetter to run with it. Thanks for the help, like I said just a basic question but I don't want to put some generic BS in my car. :beer::beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> I know this is a very basic question, but I just had my coolant leak fixed and I was wondering what do you guys recommend to run for coolant in a 93 Vr with no mods. I see there is like three different kinds G11, G12, and G12 super plus. I am also considering the water wetter to run with it. Thanks for the help, like I said just a basic question but I don't want to put some generic BS in my car. :beer::beer:


G12 should be just fine


----------



## yosa12 (Oct 4, 2010)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> I know this is a very basic question, but I just had my coolant leak fixed and I was wondering what do you guys recommend to run for coolant in a 93 Vr with no mods. I see there is like three different kinds G11, G12, and G12 super plus. I am also considering the water wetter to run with it. Thanks for the help, like I said just a basic question but I don't want to put some generic BS in my car. :beer::beer:


If you were not running G12 before you had the leak fixed you need to make sure to totally flush the system before using G12. G11 and G12 do not mix. From my experience, G12 and water wetter work well together.


----------



## SlowVRT (Jan 3, 2009)

What's the difference between OBD1 crank sensor vs OB2 crank sensor? Someone school me? :thumbup:


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

When doing a obd2 swap will the old style wiper/turn signal stalk work(I believe 1990-early1992) or do you have to upgrade this as well for the mfa to work with obd2 cluster?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> When doing a obd2 swap will the old style wiper/turn signal stalk work(I believe 1990-early1992) or do you have to upgrade this as well for the mfa to work with obd2 cluster?


You shouldn't even be touching that part of the wiring for an OBD2 swap. The stalks are their own harness and yes they are the same.


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

PrjktRado1 said:


> Hey guys, Is is possible to get the fan shroud out of a VR
> w/o taking the whole front end off? Sounds like the bearing is shot.


Any Idears? :wave:


----------



## LuisVton (Sep 23, 2006)

If I disconnect the plugs to my spoiler, will my fuse stop blowing and all other features still work or is it one circuit and needs to be connected? Thanks:beer:


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> You shouldn't even be touching that part of the wiring for an OBD2 swap. The stalks are their own harness and yes they are the same.


Ok thanks. I was just asking cause I pulled everything from a obd2 swapped corrado same year 1992 as mine is but the parts car has a newer stalk.


----------



## SlowestCorradoinNC (Jun 11, 2002)

So I'm not a new Corrado guy but I've always wondered, if you ditch the Bosch ECU and go with a standalone engine management system, do you lose your MFA functions? My guess is yes....


----------



## dannyace (Nov 9, 2000)

*Sunroof not working*

Dear Experts:

Sunroof not working on my 93SLC. The glass moves on the tracks fine if I crank it by hand. I replaced the #4 fuse with a new 15 amp one. Motor is tested and works. What else should I look for? Is there a sunroof module or something? Could be a bad headlight switch, I doubt it.

Thanks!


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

dannyace said:


> Dear Experts:
> 
> Sunroof not working on my 93SLC. The glass moves on the tracks fine if I crank it by hand. I replaced the #4 fuse with a new 15 amp one. Motor is tested and works. What else should I look for? Is there a sunroof module or something? Could be a bad headlight switch, I doubt it.
> 
> Thanks!


unplug the wire from the switch and manually jump the pins. If the motor works... then its the switch. If not... then you need to take a test wire and manually jump each section of the wiring circuit bit by bit. When you find the section that when jumping makes it work... thats the bad link.
Takes time... but thats the only failsafe way to find where the electrical break is.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

SlowestCorradoinNC said:


> So I'm not a new Corrado guy but I've always wondered, if you ditch the Bosch ECU and go with a standalone engine management system, do you lose your MFA functions? My guess is yes....


no, functions are built into the cluster


----------



## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

Just disconnect the spoiler. On the inside of the hatch, there's a panel to access the spoiler motor. Take it off. Find the white connector with the green stripe going to the motor and disconnect it. No more blown fuse. Repair/replace your motor when you get a chance.





LuisVton said:


> If I disconnect the plugs to my spoiler, will my fuse stop blowing and all other features still work or is it one circuit and needs to be connected? Thanks:beer:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> unplug the wire from the switch and manually jump the pins. If the motor works... then its the switch. If not... then you need to take a test wire and manually jump each section of the wiring circuit bit by bit. When you find the section that when jumping makes it work... thats the bad link.
> Takes time... but thats the only failsafe way to find where the electrical break is.


More than likely the part that contacts the switch on the sunroof itself is broken. They are plastic and always the cause of a broken sunroof. Look at the driver side when it is in the up position


----------



## burninstar (Jun 28, 2011)

*oil pressure drop*

I am the new owner of a 93 corrado vr6 ive had the car for about 2 weeks now and just the past 2 days of driving it the oil pressure will just drop to 0 and the oil light will come on and ding for a few seconds then go off and the oil pressure gauge will work normally. checked the oil and it is good. was wondering if there is a sensor or something else that could be causing this. Any help would be aprreciated.


----------



## LuisVton (Sep 23, 2006)

lmurray said:


> Just disconnect the spoiler. On the inside of the hatch, there's a panel to access the spoiler motor. Take it off. Find the white connector with the green stripe going to the motor and disconnect it. No more blown fuse. Repair/replace your motor when you get a chance.


thank you sir:beer::beer::beer::beer:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

burninstar said:


> I am the new owner of a 93 corrado vr6 ive had the car for about 2 weeks now and just the past 2 days of driving it the oil pressure will just drop to 0 and the oil light will come on and ding for a few seconds then go off and the oil pressure gauge will work normally. checked the oil and it is good. was wondering if there is a sensor or something else that could be causing this. Any help would be aprreciated.


Either a bad sensor or your oil pump pickup is clogged or the pump is shot.

Sensors are on the oil filter housing.

Also it could be bad wiring to the sensors.


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

SlowVRT said:


> What's the difference between OBD1 crank sensor vs OB2 crank sensor? Someone school me? :thumbup:


x2 I'd like to know as well. Can I use my OBD1 sensor with an OBD2 swap?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

iAco said:


> x2 I'd like to know as well. Can I use my OBD1 sensor with an OBD2 swap?


The connector is different


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

SlowVRT said:


> What's the difference between OBD1 crank sensor vs OB2 crank sensor? Someone school me? :thumbup:





iAco said:


> x2 I'd like to know as well. Can I use my OBD1 sensor with an OBD2 swap?





TheBurninator said:


> The connector is different


It did not become the D connector until late 97 though right?

I heard that the OBD1 can be used on OBD2 (early), but not the other way around.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> It did not become the D connector until late 97 though right?
> 
> I heard that the OBD1 can be used on OBD2 (early), but not the other way around.


Lemme check...

Yeah looks like mid 97 and up was the mk4 style connector.

There is a huge price difference between ODBI and ODBII sensors!!!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Lemme check...
> 
> Yeah looks like mid 97 and up was the mk4 style connector.
> 
> There is a huge price difference between ODBI and ODBII sensors!!!


Also the ODBI is a metal sensor the others are plastic.


----------



## need4speed2345 (May 12, 2005)

did manual swap but stuck on the wiring. The number 23 relay has the red w/black stripe and a PINK one in the same spot. Do i wire these together? Also i went down to F/1 and on the CCC forum how-to the wire they take out is a RED one and mine is PINK! Is this normal? I checked all the ones near the F slot and none are red. Also does the big ole red one get wired inline with the pink one? or just remove it and put the big ole red one in its place?


Also with it wired as follows it will turn over, BUT it floods BADLY! I mean i have a open header atm since i am to get a new exhaust and it is dripping of the header.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

need4speed2345 said:


> did manual swap but stuck on the wiring. The number 23 relay has the red w/black stripe and a PINK one in the same spot. Do i wire these together? Also i went down to F/1 and on the CCC forum how-to the wire they take out is a RED one and mine is PINK! Is this normal? I checked all the ones near the F slot and none are red. Also does the big ole red one get wired inline with the pink one? or just remove it and put the big ole red one in its place?
> 
> 
> Also with it wired as follows it will turn over, BUT it floods BADLY! I mean i have a open header atm since i am to get a new exhaust and it is dripping of the header.


Had the same issue with mine recently, the PO put a jumper wire in, I can't recall which, but I had to move the ign hot to another position in the fuseblock harness, I can answer the question better if I go back thru my notes, a2 resource guide and bentley tomorrow


----------



## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

Okay so my car ran like **** in the past days...  I changed my intake manifold for a 2.9 two weeks ago, while in there i cleaned all intake/TB/ISV and i also delete the EGR since there was no hole to hook it up on the mani... The car ran great after for about 2-3 days, but then after a long ride it wouldn't start (hot) and when it finnaly did my idle was rather high but the car drove perfectly fine...

Now the issue i have is the car is running fine and starting normally but sometimes (very random) the rpm will raise itself when im stoped at a light, it will go around 2k almost and stay there! Even between shift the needle wont go down the rpm just stay high. EVEN stranger this moring i noticed that when it does that my throttle pedal wont go "to the floor" i feel like WOT is only half a inch down :S

Seemed like a idle/fuel problem but now with my pedal physically acting up idk 

Throttle cable seems to be in place and hooked up correctly
ISV is clean as fu*k, muffler/dampner as been removed and bypassed
MAF is like 1 year old
Check engine is on since SAI delete (could a unpluged hole in the block cause intermitent problem?)


Thanks for any help, i called my mechanic and can't get it vagcom'ed until next friday


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Since the EGR delete did you block off the vacuum line on the ISV at the Intake boot? Sounds like too much vacuum.

Running like poop when warm is a sign of a bad Air Intake Temp Sensor.


----------



## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Since the EGR delete did you block off the vacuum line on the ISV at the Intake boot? Sounds like too much vacuum.
> 
> Running like poop when warm is a sign of a bad Air Intake Temp Sensor.












Do you mean the long one from the isv that connect almost in the middle of the intake "90 turn" ? I still have this one otherwise the isv won't work no...

And most of the time the problem will occur on startup (cold) or after 5mins or so.. The starting problem might not be related with engine temp cause this moring after only a 10mins drive (with rpm rarely under 2k  ) it didnt wanted to start but sometimes i drive it hard and then it seems to run good for 1-2 days... 

When it bug to start i usually push the throttle and it get it to start but otherwise its just strugguling.


----------



## VR6Nutt (Dec 18, 2003)

Is the stock VR oil cooler known to leak/fail or cause oil to mix with coolant? Reason I ask is I just did the G11 to G12 conversion and am seeing dirty or brownish coolant after a few hundred miles. I thought HG but temps are fine and I see no seepage on the side of the block/head.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

The silencer for the ISV is where one vacuum line should be but if that is deleted, then make sure the line is not connected to the EGR Solenoid any longer. Also check the Brake Booster Vacuum Hose.

If all else checks out, time to get out the Multi Meter and Ohm Out the TPS, and AITS. Double check for intake leaks, and make absolutely sure the blue coolant temp sensor is new and in good working order.


----------



## need4speed2345 (May 12, 2005)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Had the same issue with mine recently, the PO put a jumper wire in, I can't recall which, but I had to move the ign hot to another position in the fuseblock harness, I can answer the question better if I go back thru my notes, a2 resource guide and bentley tomorrow


Ok new day.. i kept the wiring the same and pulled the fuel pump fuse (which happens to be the O2 sensor as well) and she fired up and idled... Now do you think it is a bad o2 sensor?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

need4speed2345 said:


> Ok new day.. i kept the wiring the same and pulled the fuel pump fuse (which happens to be the O2 sensor as well) and she fired up and idled... Now do you think it is a bad o2 sensor?


I don't recall if the o2 is supposed to be on the same circuit??? I also would have gone thru my notes, but remembered my car isn't even here right now and the notes are in it :banghead:

It could very well be the o2, but how was the car running without power to the pump :what:


----------



## need4speed2345 (May 12, 2005)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I don't recall if the o2 is supposed to be on the same circuit??? I also would have gone thru my notes, but remembered my car isn't even here right now and the notes are in it :banghead:
> 
> It could very well be the o2, but how was the car running without power to the pump :what:


guessing fuel sitting on the rail with a little pressure. Its really odd... lol it will idle, i can hit the throttle and it will raise rpm's fine. I didnt let it sit that long since i am in a small community with no exhaust other than a open header...


----------



## corradojesus (Mar 6, 2002)

:thumbup: for all the useful info in here and :beer: to all the experts


----------



## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> The silencer for the ISV is where one vacuum line should be but if that is deleted, then make sure the line is not connected to the EGR Solenoid any longer. Also check the Brake Booster Vacuum Hose.
> 
> If all else checks out, time to get out the Multi Meter and Ohm Out the TPS, and AITS. Double check for intake leaks, and make absolutely sure the blue coolant temp sensor is new and in good working order.


Idk if you're mixing SAI and EGR or if i missed something but when i deleted the EGR (with izzo diy) i pluged the exhaust mani and small vaccum and there was no entry on the intake mani. When i deleted the isv's muffler, i turned the isv 180 around and connected the shorter hose on the intake mani just after the TB.

Blue sensor as been changed last winter, brake booster i've already looked at it but i'll double check any other lines too... As for the AITS whats is this and whats the procedure to test the TPS, in the bentley? I do have a multimeter and bentley PDF on my usb but im at work now and it suck thinking/stressing that my car will act up on my way back  

I was thinking about doing a ECU reset, maybe my fuel trim or TPS would readapt an solve the issue... 

Thanks a lot Zak for guiding me :thumbup:


----------



## need4speed2345 (May 12, 2005)

OK lets condense this:
I was able to fire if off if i pulled the fuel pump fuse, but the moment its back in (the fuse) that ****er drowns the cyls. I mean it will make a HUGE puddle under the car! (open header) I had originally 30llb injectors (volvo turbo ones) and i swapped them for the stockers and its still doing it. I do have a spare motor in the garage with parts i have been trying to swap them in (fuel pressure sensor) etc, but looks like next is the whole fuel injection harness. ANY CLUES?


----------



## Rhino74 (May 31, 2010)

What are people using/doing to make their headlights look like this?


gary2 by driverx15, on Flickr

My lights now:


IMG_0533 by driverx15, on Flickr


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

Rhino74 said:


> What are people using/doing to make their headlights look like this?
> 
> 
> gary2 by driverx15, on Flickr
> ...



Those are either French e-codes (stupidly expensive) or they put a yellow bulb cap on the bulbs. Someone sells them on here for $25 or something like that, I'm sure you'll get a link very soon..


or.. here
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4757595-F.S.-yellow-bulb-caps


----------



## Rhino74 (May 31, 2010)

elijah- said:


> Those are either French e-codes (stupidly expensive) or they put a yellow bulb cap on the bulbs. Someone sells them on here for $25 or something like that, I'm sure you'll get a link very soon..
> 
> 
> or.. here
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4757595-F.S.-yellow-bulb-caps


Awesome, thanks.


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

Can I directly replace the LEDs in my cluster/switches/a/c controls with these guys? Do I need the resistors they offer?

http://www.oznium.com/led

Also - Sr. karmann mentioned a few pages back that someone was making LED replacements for the incandescent bulbs that light the cluster, anyone know where I can find those, or what type/# bulb they are?


----------



## VR6Nutt (Dec 18, 2003)

VR6Nutt said:


> Is the stock VR oil cooler known to leak/fail or cause oil to mix with coolant? Reason I ask is I just did the G11 to G12 conversion and am seeing dirty or brownish coolant after a few hundred miles. I thought HG but temps are fine and I see no seepage on the side of the block/head.


Anyone?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Yes, Oil coolers failing will result in Oil/Coolant mixing. 


Seb-Morin, I am trying to run over some more information. Hang tight for a minute. 


Oh, actually, did you delete the EGR Solenoid? And since you have a 90 VR6 What is your swap from?


----------



## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Seb-Morin, I am trying to run over some more information. Hang tight for a minute.
> 
> 
> Oh, actually, did you delete the EGR Solenoid? And since you have a 90 VR6 What is your swap from?


The swap is from a passat (i've been told) and it is a 94 according to the sticker beside the fuel line.

I removed everything in the pic except the exhaust mani insert that i capped.


----------



## VR6Nutt (Dec 18, 2003)

Seb - do you want to sell the vacuum solenoid piece? I broke the nipple off mine. 


Any other indicators of a failing oil cooler? (higher temps)


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

VR6Nutt said:


> Seb - do you want to sell the vacuum solenoid piece? I broke the nipple off mine.
> 
> 
> Any other indicators of a failing oil cooler? (higher temps)


Seb, the piece he wants is what I need to see a pic of as well as your vacuum booster line. As for the Ohms to check. Not sure off the top of my head. 

The Air Intake Temp Sensor is located at the bend of the manigold under the FPR. Notoriously bad in age and made of metal so Heat Soak is one other culprit. 

I have one too VR6Nutt...so if he cannot help you I can. shoot me a PM with an honest offer for it, and I will dig it out for you. :thumbup:

Higher temps and Pepto Bismol looking coolant. Erratic coolant pressures causing bursts.


----------



## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

@VR6nutt Sorry everything you see on the pic as been thrown to the garbage :-/

@DUBZAK Are you refering to #4 on the diagram? I'll try to get a picture of my bay tomorow, theres one vaccum that i worn pretty badly and might be the one your refering...


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## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

You can pressure test the oil cooler if you want to confirm thats it. Is there any coolant in the oil? is the coolant or oil low at all?


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## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

Headlight switch question... I noticed today that when the key is out and the ignition off, the headlight switch is lit when both driving and headlights are on. However when the car is on, the headlight switch only illuminates when the driving lights are on. Is this normal, to spare my eyes when it's really dark or something?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Seb--Morin said:


> @VR6nutt Sorry everything you see on the pic as been thrown to the garbage :-/
> 
> @DUBZAK Are you refering to #4 on the diagram? I'll try to get a picture of my bay tomorow, theres one vaccum that i worn pretty badly and might be the one your refering...


#4 Is exactly that. You see the couple of Vacuum Lines attached, some of them get deleted. 

I would again like to see what yours look like if you can snap a clear picture. Otherwise you are going to have to fly me out there.


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

elijah- said:


> Headlight switch question... I noticed today that when the key is out and the ignition off, the headlight switch is lit when both driving and headlights are on. However when the car is on, the headlight switch only illuminates when the driving lights are on. Is this normal, to spare my eyes when it's really dark or something?


Most likey your city or parking light are on with switch on and key out. Yes the switch(green indicator) will be lit up. Your low beam stay off with key out. Turn switch off.  or that you have faulty headlight switch or ignition switch or something wrong with wiring. I'm assuming you have eurolights bc you said driving lights?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

elijah- said:


> Headlight switch question... I noticed today that when the key is out and the ignition off, the headlight switch is lit when both driving and headlights are on. However when the car is on, the headlight switch only illuminates when the driving lights are on. Is this normal, to spare my eyes when it's really dark or something?





chc-rado said:


> Most likey your city or parking light are on with switch on and key out. Yes the switch(green indicator) will be lit up. Your low beam stay off with key out. Turn switch off.  or that you have faulty headlight switch or ignition switch or something wrong with wiring. I'm assuming you have eurolights bc you said driving lights?


Not even, that is NORMAL for the light to light up in the Headlight On Position to remind you to turn them off after the key is pulled out.


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## VR6Nutt (Dec 18, 2003)

02GTIFREESKIER said:


> You can pressure test the oil cooler if you want to confirm thats it. Is there any coolant in the oil? is the coolant or oil low at all?


I dont see any coolant in the oil - the coolant isnt the vibrant pink color it was when I poured it in. How does one pressure test the cooler? Does it require removal? 

And Dubzak or Seb - I need #4 in the diagram. Thx.


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## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

Okay so here is a [crappy] pic of the solenoid, with the crappy vaccum going to the intake tube (worn off, need replacement) and the black connector is unplug (EGR-can i cut it?)











Oh and on top of that my hood release cable clip snaped on me this weekend so i can't open the hood easily...


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Delete and cap off the line running to the ISV hose from the "Frequency"valve. The line that looks like it is half braided vacuum hose taped to another vacuum hose.


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## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

^ Okay so i don't need that line at all, i cap both the tube and the solenoid/valve thingy? 

Thanks again :thumbup:


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## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

OBD2 Swap question, i noticed in the "OBD2 Swap" thread it says you require a "OBD2" tension bolt, im just wondering why?

Originally in my OBD1 VR6 i had "021 109 257 B"

In the timing chain cover, which i got from as far as i know a mk3 OBD2 VR, i had the same bolt ("021 109 257 B")

That one failed and now i have to buy a new one and i have two options, 021 109 257 A and B, A has a little nipple on the very front and the B version doesnt, just wondering which one im supposed to get for an OBD1 engine with OBD2 swap?

Cheers


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## divedave (Nov 9, 2008)

*MK4 headgasket*

I recently had to buy a MK4 head gasket, and i was wondering if the final tightnening torque (which is 43 ft lb)changes whe using this headgasket, any recommendations while doing this work. Reference:










Thanks


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Seb, cap both if it makes you feel better, but that frequency valve is doing nothing for your vacuum and can also be deleted. Resistor mod for no CEL as stated in the delete thread.



Das.Rado said:


> OBD2 Swap question, i noticed in the "OBD2 Swap" thread it says you require a "OBD2" tension bolt, im just wondering why?
> 
> Originally in my OBD1 VR6 i had "021 109 257 B"
> 
> ...


There are 2 for OBD 2. 1 for Early Tensioner style, 2nd for the updated tensioner (late 97 and single row upper chain).

What chain set are you using? That will help determine.




divedave said:


> I recently had to buy a MK4 head gasket, and i was wondering if the final tightnening torque (which is 43 ft lb)changes whe using this headgasket, any recommendations while doing this work. Reference:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Those specs are fine, do not forget the additional 180 Degree turn for OEM Stretch bolts.


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

anyone know where to get rear camber shims that allow more than 1º camber?


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

so im picking up a 24v motor with 02m 6spd trans for my corrado this weekend...which standalone system should i run with it? lugtronics? sds? 034? not really sure...im picking up the motor with wiring/ecu/cluster but i have no wiring for any motor installed in the corrado currently..


i had a 12v vr6 engine in it but i sold the extended harness. not really sure where i should be going can someone point me in the right direction with which standalone will be easiest/best solution because i eventually want to go turbo with the 24v motor


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Really man, there is no "Better" or "Easier" it is based on the support and functions of the SEM system itself. 

Research all the different ones that apply and go with the one that has the features you like.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

1broknrado said:


> so im picking up a 24v motor with 02m 6spd trans for my corrado this weekend...which standalone system should i run with it? lugtronics? sds? 034? not really sure...im picking up the motor with wiring/ecu/cluster but i have no wiring for any motor installed in the corrado currently..
> 
> 
> i had a 12v vr6 engine in it but i sold the extended harness. not really sure where i should be going can someone point me in the right direction with which standalone will be easiest/best solution because i eventually want to go turbo with the 24v motor


I prefer MS over those choices. SDS is outdated by todays standards and programming via the little handheld device is inconvenient.

Lugtronics is just a modified VEMS setup. (nice use of AMPHENOL connector)

034 is overpriced for what you get and the harness runs out both sides of the ECU. Why I dunno.


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

is there any kind of FAQ about standalone for dummies? i dont really know much about them or what the different systems do or what a lot of the stuff means haha


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

anyone have pics of how the g60 headlights look on an SLC?
does it look THAT bad?
is the gap between the headlight and the fender that noticeable?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

1broknrado said:


> is there any kind of FAQ about standalone for dummies? i dont really know much about them or what the different systems do or what a lot of the stuff means haha


What is your budget for standalone?

Who is doing the tuning? If you aren't doing the tuning I would ask whoever is what system they normal tune and go with that.

If you are doing the tuning then MS is probably the way to go. The tuning software is easy and you can have an ECU built to your setup by either Paul or DIYAutotune. Just a matter of building a harness at that point.



eurobred said:


> anyone have pics of how the g60 headlights look on an SLC?
> does it look THAT bad?
> is the gap between the headlight and the fender that noticeable?


I can spot it from a ways away but I have been around these cars for years


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

eurobred said:


> anyone have pics of how the g60 headlights look on an SLC?
> does it look THAT bad?
> is the gap between the headlight and the fender that noticeable?


Yes noticable gap.


As for camber shims....... :facepalm: Only a matter of time before it found its way to a Corrado owner. 


Everyone else is using washers. This is yet another fad implimented without reason other than the JDM scene is currently all about hellaflush cambered out cars. I hope you are merely trying to fit a retardedly wide wheel a little better, but the correct answer is get better fitting wheels because your toe will be stupid and tires are expensive. 

Nothing personal Eurobred. Just LOL'ing at solid rear beams with camber far greater than it should be.


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## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Thanks for the info about the tensioner bolts DUBZAK. 

Car in quesiton: 1993 VW Corrado VR6 OBD2 Swapped

However i might as well start from the beginning with my problem. Car was running great, went to the parts store to get some rim cleaner went back outside starting up the rado and there was a loud knocking noise. After opening the hood and seeing that there was nothing noticeably wrong i got the car towed to the shop i work at, after diagnosis I found that the knocking noise was the chain losing tension and then snapping back in place. Furthermore, after assessing my options i decided to replace the tension bolt, "easy" fix instead of disassembling everything first. 

All in all the car sat for approx. 2 weeks before i could get the new bolt in, when i went to crank it was having trouble building up oil pressure and the chain wasn't really tightening, however pressure eventually built up (5 seconds of cranking), but the tension problem still exists however without the knocking noise. The chain has gotten significantly tighter with the new bolt, but not tight enough.

Is there something wrong in the Intermediate shaft or does my tension bolt just need a engine start up worth of oil pressure to work properly?


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

DUBZAK said:


> Yes noticable gap.
> 
> 
> As for camber shims....... :facepalm: Only a matter of time before it found its way to a Corrado owner.
> ...


im just seeing if its possible. 
yes i possibly have a set of 16x9, 16x10 et15 CCW Classics coming my way so im trying to make the rears fit nicely.
im not just cambering for the hell of it.
if anything i was just looking for a 2º camber shim. if not ill see how i can work with the 1º eurosportacc.com makes.
if not then ill stick with 16x9s all the way around and just space out the rear where i like. (stock fenders) no pulling, just trimming/rolling


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Das.Rado said:


> Thanks for the info about the tensioner bolts DUBZAK.
> 
> Car in quesiton: 1993 VW Corrado VR6 OBD2 Swapped
> 
> ...


Later Single row upper tensioner style? That requires the later bolt. You still have not confirmed which you have. 

The tensioner bolt should be soaked in oil for a day or so before installing. This helps with priming the system and the bolt also has something to do with oil pressure itself. The intermediate shaft is OFTEN overlooked when rebuilding or doing maintenance, and is also responsible for oil pressure via the pump drive being spun by it. Sounds to me like you may have jumped a tooth. Recheck everything including lower chain timing. 



eurobred said:


> im just seeing if its possible.
> yes i possibly have a set of 16x9, 16x10 et15 CCW Classics coming my way so im trying to make the rears fit nicely.
> im not just cambering for the hell of it.
> if anything i was just looking for a 2º camber shim. if not ill see how i can work with the 1º eurosportacc.com makes.
> if not then ill stick with 16x9s all the way around and just space out the rear where i like. (stock fenders) no pulling, just trimming/rolling


Possibly? lol

Are the 16x9's also et15? 

I run 17x9 and the rear et is 22ish......they are hard to stuff under stock fenders. 

Seriously, many people are putting just a simple washer on the stub axle bolt and achieving the camber degree they are seeking. Only problem is the toe is so far out that it makes the camber negligible and will eat tires so fast.


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## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> Nothing personal Eurobred. Just LOL'ing at solid rear beams with camber far greater than it should be.


I also have a really hard time looking at Corrados with a lot of camber without feeling a pan in my stub axle. I may just be a purist with my Corrado but I really don't think the almighty designer had that sort of camber in mind when designing the car.

I don't know what is more of a pain to me, the wear on the tires or the wear on the bearings.


Here is an actual question.

I re-packed my rear bearings about 500 miles after replacing them because I was bored and had time. When I put them back In I got everything else put together blah blah blah.

When you tighten the nut onto the stub. The Bible says to tighten it until you can move the washer without prying. I felt that gave the back wheels too much play. So i tightened it more and now I have to pry a bit to get the washer to move....

Better to be a little too loose, or a little too tight?


Also protip to anyone who is going to break down their rear setup for this job. Go to you local Nut & screw store and replace all the bolts you remove with equally sized 10.9 stainless steel bolts. It will be MUCH easier to take apart the next time you have to.


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

No real set price on standalone. I'll pay what I need to. I just foun out you can pin the harness to plug into a ce2 block so I may do that then run a plug and play from lugtronics once I go boost 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

1broknrado said:


> No real set price on standalone. I'll pay what I need to. I just foun out you can pin the harness to plug into a ce2 block so I may do that then run a plug and play from lugtronics once I go boost
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Might want to warn kevin this is for a shaved bay car so the harness is long enough.


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

DUBZAK said:


> Possibly? lol
> 
> Are the 16x9's also et15?
> 
> ...


yes, et15 on all 4 wheels. so washers eh... ill look into that.
and see if its possible to get the toe corrected from an alignment shop


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

TheBurninator said:


> Might want to warn kevin this is for a shaved bay car so the harness is long enough.



i think i may need to get a new shell  

i can't get the fender/door to properly line up on the passenger side, therefore thinking that the car was hit...what is the best way to take measurements to make sure that it wasnt hit? do you measure the engine bay from corner to corner?


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## burninstar (Jun 28, 2011)

thanks changed the sensor this weekend with fresh oil and filter has not came on since


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

1broknrado said:


> i think i may need to get a new shell
> 
> i can't get the fender/door to properly line up on the passenger side, therefore thinking that the car was hit...what is the best way to take measurements to make sure that it wasnt hit? do you measure the engine bay from corner to corner?


Look at this
http://www.vwmotorsport.com/vwtech/jig/Corrado jig.pdf


Why not talk with a collision repair place and see what they say about it. Might just need some frame machine time or they can give you suggestions on how to get things to line up if they are nice.


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

i have no idea how to read that...and i cant really move car around that much without a motor or registration


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## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

Is there a way to stop the oil alarm from going off. Long story short hooked up an oil gauge because the light was going off I should have teed the sensor but I didn't. Anyway my oil pressure is fine but I'm on my way to a car show and it's driving me nuts any quick roadside fix? Fuse wire snips or something


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Is it possible to weld a cracked inner 3pc wheel barrel? 
The crack is about 1'' long and it starts from the edge of the barrel...
Is it safe for the wheels structural integrity/design?


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

when disassembling the charger. how does one remove the displacer from the unit and then how does one seperate the shaft from the displacer. I'd like a bit of insight before I attempt it.


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## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

While driving my C for about an hour today, I turned on the A/C. With the a/c on I am seeing oil temps as high as 242, and coolant temps as high as 200 ish. These temps were on the highway doing about 80mph avg. Normal driving with no a/c, coolant never goes above 190 and oil temps stay around 220. Outside air temps are roughly 85. Is this normal, or should I avoid running the a/c if I am seeing these temps? TIA
:beer:

Edit: VR6 BTW


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## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> Is this normal, or should I avoid running the a/c if I am seeing these temps? TIA
> :beer:
> Edit: VR6 BTW


 242 is a bit high, but not un heard of. VR6 engines like 10W40 fully synthetic oil. If you aren't using it, you should. 
Your owners manual warns against having the AC on while driving hard for long periods of time. But if the oil is 240 ish for your morning commute, that isn't going to warp the head... However, normal oil temp should hang around 210-230. I dont use A/C in my VR because I love hearing my exhaust sing but, to each his own.


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## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Is it possible to weld a cracked inner 3pc wheel barrel?
> The crack is about 1'' long and it starts from the edge of the barrel...
> Is it safe for the wheels structural integrity/design?


 Theoretically welding material, once it cures into the metal is as strong as the metal it is bonded with... However since it is a wheel, and air goes in a wheel.... IDK I would prefer to go big or go home and have the wheel repaired by a pro


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Is it possible to weld a cracked inner 3pc wheel barrel?
> The crack is about 1'' long and it starts from the edge of the barrel...
> Is it safe for the wheels structural integrity/design?


 Yes, 2 of mine are welded and are fine 



TheLateJetta said:


> Theoretically welding material, once it cures into the metal is as strong as the metal it is bonded with... However since it is a wheel, and air goes in a wheel.... IDK I would prefer to go big or go home and have the wheel repaired by a pro


 yes, this needs to be done by a professional :thumbup:


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

TheLateJetta said:


> 242 is a bit high, but not un heard of. VR6 engines like 10W40 fully synthetic oil. If you aren't using it, you should.
> Your owners manual warns against having the AC on while driving hard for long periods of time. But if the oil is 240 ish for your morning commute, that isn't going to warp the head... However, normal oil temp should hang around 210-230. I dont use A/C in my VR because I love hearing my exhaust sing but, to each his own.


 what LateJetta said and I will add, that is signs of a failing oil cooler. If everything else in the cooling system is sealed, no leaks, and fans operational......Oil Cooler and those temps should drop. :thumbup:


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheLateJetta said:


> Theoretically welding material, once it cures into the metal is as strong as the metal it is bonded with... However since it is a wheel, and air goes in a wheel.... IDK I would prefer to go big or go home and have the wheel repaired by a pro





Sr. Karmann said:


> Yes, 2 of mine are welded and are fine
> 
> 
> 
> yes, this needs to be done by a professional :thumbup:


 Thanks both :thumbup: 

I'll post some pics soon to show the damage...


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## bronxbombers689 (May 4, 2007)

so I have a decent amount mechanics skills, been out the VW game for a lil bit, tryin to fix my girls 98 Jetta Vr, its been sitting for a while, before she gave up on it she says(bare with me here) she would randomly be driving and the car would shut off and all lights were off except on the dash and radio. Then apparently the car would just start up and drive again normal without cranking it over, after it died, the problem eventually got worse and worse until it wouldn't do anything anymore, about to go take my first look at it today bring a fresh battery, and scan it just looking or some input at all, I know you guys are good and have seen just about it all. Thanks in advance. - Brendan


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

bronxbombers689 said:


> so I have a decent amount mechanics skills, been out the VW game for a lil bit, tryin to fix my girls 98 Jetta Vr, its been sitting for a while, before she gave up on it she says(bare with me here) she would randomly be driving and the car would shut off and all lights were off except on the dash and radio. Then apparently the car would just start up and drive again normal without cranking it over, after it died, the problem eventually got worse and worse until it wouldn't do anything anymore, about to go take my first look at it today bring a fresh battery, and scan it just looking or some input at all, I know you guys are good and have seen just about it all. Thanks in advance. - Brendan


 Wrong forum. 

But might want to check the ignition switch


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## VdubG60Swag (Jul 11, 2011)

*G60 Supercharger*

So through my explorations on craig's list, I found a gorgeous 1990 VW Corrado with the G60. Only problem is the supercharger is bad:banghead:. Is this fixable? What's involved? Can I get a new one? Cost of that?  Help please!!!


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

VdubG60Swag said:


> So through my explorations on craig's list, I found a gorgeous 1990 VW Corrado with the G60. Only problem is the supercharger is bad:banghead:. Is this fixable? What's involved? Can I get a new one? Cost of that?  Help please!!!


 A Lot is involved especially if it blew on the car, you may be in for a huge rebuild of other components while replacing the charger. 
Find a local reputable shop with G60 Experience. 
If you are looking for a Corrado as a fun car, it will be a project. The fact you are asking what is involved shows that you have 0 previous experience, and I would recommend another car unless you have deep pockets. 

Otherwise walk away from this one.


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## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> what LateJetta said and I will add, that is signs of a failing oil cooler. If everything else in the cooling system is sealed, no leaks, and fans operational......Oil Cooler and those temps should drop. :thumbup:


 FML... Everything is sealed and most of the coolant system is new(crack pipe, water pump, etc). I have run mobil 1 10w30 since I got the car. But after some reading I read that 5w30 is a prefered oil for VR's I guess I will switch back to 10w30 or 10w40 as latejetta said and see if this helps. I will be buying a oil cooler for my turbo set up. If my current oil cooler fails, I should be able to run the new one for the turbo set up right? Turbo and all its goodies wont be installed till this winter.


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## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

can i wire a resistor to the factory oil pressure signal wire to make the alarm stop. I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

nu2dubbing said:


> can i wire a resistor to the factory oil pressure signal wire to make the alarm stop. I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge.


 Pull your cluster apart and remove the buzzer for $1000 Trebek


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## Lock (Jul 4, 2011)

I usually jus rim lower exaust and minor tune, minimal look and clean, no badges I think i will stick with that. I bought a 90 g60 borred out with flat heads/ no blower. my bad Always wanted one but it stop running after a couple months. i would take my foot off the gas and it would "bog" down then shut off, unless given gas. then it jus stop turnig over, oh yeah then i burned out starter solenoid. nice..... now she is under a carport collecting dust. I am far from a master mechanic and my vdub mechanic scratches his head. when i bought the car the guy said he broke front motor mount (motor broke free) but he rebuild blah blah..... My problem now not sure what it could be. Please heeellllllpppp. and how do i get pics up without usin a url?


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

cyberstasi said:


> when disassembling the charger. how does one remove the displacer from the unit and then how does one seperate the shaft from the displacer. I'd like a bit of insight before I attempt it.


 anyone got any insight for me?


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

Yea but that flashing light sucks too. Alright not getting far on this. Can someone give me an easy link to the t I need to connect the factory sensor and the auto meter oil sensor to the oil filter housing. Thanks


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## bronxbombers689 (May 4, 2007)

TheBurninator said:


> Wrong forum.
> 
> But might want to check the ignition switch


 should have figured, toggled around with the switch a little bit starts and runs fine if you hold in the right place, gotta be it, poppin a new one in today. Thanks.


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## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> I guess I will switch back to 10w30 or 10w40 as latejetta said and see if this helps.


 10w40 FTW 
VR6 Want thick oil, that 5w30 is too watery for them. I doubt it will change much about your temp issue but who knows... its a corrado


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> anyone got any insight for me?


 Ya, it's been awhile and I'm a little hung over this morning, but you need to remove all the circlips and IIRC, you need to tap out the shaft with a hammer. I have to take another one apart today and will let you know for sure later :thumbup: 



nu2dubbing said:


> Yea but that flashing light sucks too. Alright not getting far on this. Can someone give me an easy link to the t I need to connect the factory sensor and the auto meter oil sensor to the oil filter housing. Thanks


 So hook it all up the correct way or unhook the LED, have some imagination bro


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## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

thats what im planning on just need to know where to get the T to do so. I guess the biggest problem I have is I am not sure if im looking for metric thread, An fitting or a combo of both. Is anyone else running an after market oil pressure gauge and there factory low pressure switch care to tell me where they got the fitting TIA


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## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

nu2dubbing said:


> thats what im planning on just need to know where to get the T to do so. I guess the biggest problem I have is I am not sure if im looking for metric thread, An fitting or a combo of both. Is anyone else running an after market oil pressure gauge and there factory low pressure switch care to tell me where they got the fitting TIA


 
Never mind got it from the mkII guys.


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## gti4speed! (Jul 8, 2011)

*jump starting a corrado*

I have been told that you should never jump start a corrado as you will trip the automatic transmission sensors. the correct way to do it is to pull the battery and charge and place it back in the vehicle. Is there any validity to this or is it just a bunch of bs!!!


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

gti4speed! said:


> I have been told that you should never jump start a corrado as you will trip the automatic transmission sensors. the correct way to do it is to pull the battery and charge and place it back in the vehicle. Is there any validity to this or is it just a bunch of bs!!!


 I call BS Jared's brother in law, right?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

gti4speed! said:


> I have been told that you should never jump start a corrado as you will trip the automatic transmission sensors. the correct way to do it is to pull the battery and charge and place it back in the vehicle. Is there any validity to this or is it just a bunch of bs!!!


 That makes no sense at all... 

Think about how a 12v DC electrical system works for a minute... :facepalm:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> That makes no sense at all...
> 
> Think about how a 12v DC electrical system works for a minute... :facepalm:


 :laugh: 

I know all about this car, low mileage auto that "pej" called me about a few times, supposedly a really clean 91 with 45k on the clock, but the original owner is a low knowledge douche


----------



## CabrioVR (Sep 1, 2006)

Hey guys, my corrado's rear wing doesn't work, tested it with just battery goes up and down, i get to the switch no power there, the fuses are all fine and dandy is there a relay or something that i may be missing ? maybe a rear spoiler module ? im new to corrado's


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

CabrioVR said:


> Hey guys, my corrado's rear wing doesn't work, tested it with just battery goes up and down, i get to the switch no power there, the fuses are all fine and dandy is there a relay or something that i may be missing ? maybe a rear spoiler module ? im new to corrado's


 yep, it's a module. I personally don't know if it's incorporated in the cruise control module or separate one all together, but there are 2, the cruise is silver in color and locates behind the cluster on the right and the other one is under the dash right to the left of the spoiler switch, hope this helps


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> yep, it's a module. I personally don't know if it's incorporated in the cruise control module or separate one all together, but there are 2, the cruise is silver in color and locates behind the cluster on the right and the other one is under the dash right to the left of the spoiler switch, hope this helps


 seperate :thumbup:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> seperate :thumbup:


 :thumbup:


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Heya guys, i'm just wondering what the VAG COM Measuring Block value for "Ignition timing at BTDC" should be in a VR6 (OBD2 Swapped, if that matters)? My car is around 5.3-6, but i have seen a 3.8 as well. Any input?


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

What is the "experts" opinion of Autotech 262 Cams in a VR6 Application. I'm looking for a camshaft enhancement without compromising the engines ability to idle smoothly. 

I've got a Neuspeed chip in the ECU ATM


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

262's do not require valve springs, and should not effect idle. 

268's should be done with valve springs. And Idles fine with software. 

268's without software sound like this @ Idle. Not really a problem. 268's make more power up top, so if you have an older motor stick with the 262's so you wont have to rev the piss out of your car.


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> 262's do not require valve springs, and should not effect idle.
> so if you have an older motor stick with the 262's so you wont have to rev the piss out of your car.


 I'm looking to increase low-midrange power. What cam measument is the right one for that? 

I only have 80 is thousand miles on my Rado. But I'm a pu$$ie of a driver (the slow one during cruises.) There is a set of Autotech 262's new in the box available in the local group that I though I'd buy and let them sit for 20k miles until I take my head apart. 

Thx


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

TheLateJetta said:


> I'm looking to increase low-midrange power. What cam measument is the right one for that?
> *Stock*
> I only have 80 is thousand miles on my Rado. But I'm a pu$$ie of a driver (the slow one during cruises.) There is a set of Autotech 262's new in the box available in the local group that I though I'd buy and let them sit for 20k miles until I take my head apart.
> 
> Thx


 All VR6 Aftermarket Cams increase Mid Range And Upper RPM Power. You are asking for wheelspin if you want more low end and its just not going to happen with a set of cams. 

Personally 262's are for people who just want to say the have "cams". 268's are for those who wanna wake up a VR6. I shift at 7,300 where the 268s make a ton of difference but my motor is a little bit built.


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

Would be even better if you were shifting at 8300 with some head work  


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Headwork will happen eventually. Ahh yes, With Eurospec Sports Solid Lifter Conversion and cams in the 300's.....that would equal one mean NA Machine. (If i syat NA that is.  )


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> You are asking for wheelspin if you want more low end and its just not going to happen with a set of cams.


Thats silly. A Corrado is a thing of beauty, not some tire shredding loudmouth. 



DUBZAK said:


> Personally 262's are for people who just want to say the have "cams". 268's are for those who wanna wake up a VR6. I shift at 7,300 where the 268s make a ton of difference but my motor is a little bit built.


 See that makes my mind up. 262's will be just fine for my driving style. 

I admire you high shifting built-motor dudes. I just cant keep up:laugh:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

LOL I love that pic. 

Seriously the 262's will add mid range and top end to the power band without sacrificing the low end. Most other cams above that lose low end to make power up top. 
After that get a chip to match the cams. :thumbup: 

My Corrado will be a tire shredding monster once this new closer ratio 5 speed is done.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> LOL I love that pic.
> 
> Seriously the 262's will add mid range and top end to the power band without sacrificing the low end. Most other cams above that lose low end to make power up top.
> After that get a chip to match the cams. :thumbup:
> ...


 The one stipulation with that is that the VR6 Intake manifold and ports in the head limit the power band. It pretty much falls on its face at 6500 RPM without fail. There have been few exceptions out there to this.


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> The one stipulation with that is that the VR6 Intake manifold and ports in the head limit the power band. It pretty much falls on its face at 6500 RPM without fail. There have been few exceptions out there to this.


 That is absolutely right. However if you are going to be hanging around above 6500 RPMs frequently I'm really hoping that you've improved the performance of the head... intake... block... exhaust.... Yeah just the whole dam thing. 



DUBZAK said:


> LOL I love that pic.
> Seriously the 262's will add mid range and top end to the power band without sacrificing the low end. Most other cams above that lose low end to make power up top.
> After that get a chip to match the cams. :thumbup:
> My Corrado will be a tire shredding monster once this new closer ratio 5 speed is done.


 Thats one of my fav pics. Thx for the tips on the camshafts. Of course I will mate cams with a good chip. they go together like lamb & Tunafeesh. 








I take this time to insert a protip. 

Stickers from DubKorps add 5WHp & 4WTq


----------



## 350Zimo (Mar 9, 2011)

I have a 93 SLC and I am planning on doing a tranny flush on Sunday. Do I need a 17 mm hex or a 12 point? Which one is it to remove the fill-in and drain!


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Is it possible to weld a cracked inner 3pc wheel barrel?
> The crack is about 1'' long and it starts from the edge of the barrel...
> Is it safe for the wheels structural integrity/design?


 Here's the pic to my situation... 




























Looking forward hearing the wheel experts opinions


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Here's the pic to my situation...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Already have answered you my friend  ^^^^^^^^^


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

350Zimo said:


> I have a 93 SLC and I am planning on doing a tranny flush on Sunday. Do I need a 17 mm hex or a 12 point? Which one is it to remove the fill-in and drain!


 Is your car a manual transmission? 

If so you need a standard 17mm Alan wrench. Sears has them. That tool removes the Filler hole AND the drain point. 
Remember to remove both when you are draining the fluid. 

Its a fairly simple job, just make sure you let the old fluid drip out for 15-20 mins to make sure it all comes out.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Already have answered you my friend  ^^^^^^^^^


 Thanks :thumbup: 

I just thought that maybe posting pics of the crack would confirm or decline the already given advise...I guess this means that its fine to be welded


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Thanks :thumbup:
> 
> I just thought that maybe posting pics of the crack would confirm or decline the already given advise...I guess this means that its fine to be welded


 Have it TIG'd not MIG :thumbup: 

Cost a touch more but it will be less brittle. And should be easy to fix. 

Also replied to the rest of it


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

Drove a G60 today to waterfest with a little bit of hard driving and some traffic on the way. Pulled into a gas staition and when I went to restart it, it was sputtering and stalled a few times. After I got it started ran and drove fine. Pulled into my spot at the show and was asked to move. So I started it again and had the same issues. After the engine has cooled down it starts right up. Any ideas where to start with this one?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> Drove a G60 today to waterfest with a little bit of hard driving and some traffic on the way. Pulled into a gas staition and when I went to restart it, it was sputtering and stalled a few times. After I got it started ran and drove fine. Pulled into my spot at the show and was asked to move. So I started it again and had the same issues. After the engine has cooled down it starts right up. Any ideas where to start with this one?


 Sounds to me like a vapor lock issue, look into your fuel pump after-run :thumbup:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Have it TIG'd not MIG :thumbup:
> 
> Cost a touch more but it will be less brittle. And should be easy to fix.
> 
> Also replied to the rest of it


 :thumbup: :beer:


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

OK. 
VR KnowItAlls listen up. As we know, most of the time in the AAA engine it is NOT the chains themselves that go bad, it is the guides that are cheap and made of plastic that get worn and start to make icky noise. 

Is there a supplier who makes a billet aluminum replacement part? Or any other material that lasts longer than the OEM parts? Granted the OE parts last plenty of time but I'm curious. 

Would it even be a good idea to have metal guides? 

As you can see below I have a little over 80k miles on my Corrado so I'm thinking that by the time I hit 100K I'm going to change the chains so I'm just doing some fact checking. 

:beer:


----------



## Steddy (Jul 9, 2011)

*nOOb questions*

I have had my 90 G60 for about 11 years, has been sitting for the past 6. I have been working on auto's for about 22 years, auto body by trade, have built several cars from ground up. i recently got my G60 to NC. where i live and want it to be right. Right now in process of replacing supercharger, adding water to air intercooler, and doing alot of maintance. Yesterday i removed all of the old intercooler setup and found excessive oil in the tubes and intercooler. The G60 has 111000 miles on it and i'm not sure if the charger has been rebuilt, looks like no, was wandering what would cause the oil problem. When the car arrived i started it and it ran a little rough, smoked alot at first but cleared up to little smoke. Checked the oil and was way overfull and smelled of gas. Changed oil and filter, started it and ran much smoother, no smoke. Took the injector assembly out to check for injector bleed down but none, now waiting for o-ring kit to reinstall, also waiting for temp sensors plugs and other gaskets, hoses, and misc. Would like to see some pics of water to air setup. Can you do a ISV reroute with this setup? 

Before i parked the car i replaced and upgraded most all of the suspension, all i need now is coilovers, looking at Koni's, any advise? 

Also looking for euro seat belt conversion kit in black, hate the sliders. 

Would appriciate any advise and help anyone could give.


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Steddy said:


> Before i parked the car i replaced and upgraded most all of the suspension, all i need now is coilovers, looking at Koni's, any advise?


 I have Koni yellow's with Eibach springs. I'm in love with them 
Others buy KW, Raceland, Bilstein, HR Blah Blah Blah. All are good and much better than the OEM Sachs/Boge 



Steddy said:


> Also looking for euro seat belt conversion kit in black, hate the sliders.


 Good luck. I think everyone is.


----------



## CorradoFuhrer (Mar 21, 2002)

DUBZAK said:


> 262's do not require valve springs, and should not effect idle.
> 
> 268's should be done with valve springs. And Idles fine with software.
> 
> 268's without software sound like this @ Idle. Not really a problem. 268's make more power up top, so if you have an older motor stick with the 262's so you wont have to rev the piss out of your car.


will my standard AMS chip be fine when I do cams? What is actually changed in the tune?


----------



## CorradoFuhrer (Mar 21, 2002)

whats the difference in older vs newer vr's in terms of doing cams? obd2's have more torque or something down low? I don't think that idle sounds that bad at all?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

CorradoFuhrer said:


> whats the difference in older vs newer vr's in terms of doing cams? obd2's have more torque or something down low? I don't think that idle sounds that bad at all?


Depends on which OBDII motor. The 12v from mk4 has no equal length runner in the intake manifold so the cams are designed to compensate. DRS makes cames for this application that work very well. If you are using the Early style intake then the cams are the same.


----------



## CorradoFuhrer (Mar 21, 2002)

oh ok mk4. i got a obdII later style mk3. Excited to do some DRC 268's.


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

*QUESTION:*

My power steering pump is leaking, and my steering feels loose because of it. Can this compromise the steering rack or can I get away with just replacing the pump?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

TheLateJetta said:


> OK.
> VR KnowItAlls listen up. As we know, most of the time in the AAA engine it is NOT the chains themselves that go bad, it is the guides that are cheap and made of plastic that get worn and start to make icky noise.
> 
> Is there a supplier who makes a billet aluminum replacement part? Or any other material that lasts longer than the OEM parts? Granted the OE parts last plenty of time but I'm curious.
> ...


 If you NEED to do chains at 100k, shift more. :laugh: I did mine at 150K. 

Nope. No "Billet" Timing Chain Guides. The Later OBD2 Style Tensioner for the Single Row Upper Chains does last a lot longer than the Early Style Tensioner, but the guides still need to be plastic and are the same between the different 12v VR6's. 




CorradoFuhrer said:


> will my standard AMS chip be fine when I do cams? What is actually changed in the tune?


The Ignition Map for the cam profile is what changes. Doing cams without software is kinda pointless, but you will still make power, just not as much. 



skaterhernandez4 said:


> *QUESTION:*
> 
> My power steering pump is leaking, and my steering feels loose because of it. Can this compromise the steering rack or can I get away with just replacing the pump?


Replace the pump only if that is what is bad. You do not automatically need to replace the rack anytime unless it too is bad. 

Don't forget to bench bleed the pump (Prime It) and try not to get air in the system or you will blow out every seal in the steering.


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> If you NEED to do chains at 100k, shift more. :laugh: I did mine at 150K.
> Nope. No "Billet" Timing Chain Guides. The Later OBD2 Style Tensioner for the Single Row Upper Chains does last a lot longer than the Early Style Tensioner, but the guides still need to be plastic and are the same between the different 12v VR6's.


You have to remember that I'm obsessive about my Corrado. I shift like a grandma. If you say you did yours at 150k I feel like I should have done them @ 75K:laugh:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

:laugh: 

Just use the Updated tensioner style chain kit. (Single Row Upper Chain Guide, and later tensioner bolt) works with dual upper chains. :thumbup:

Obsessive should result in the best final product. If you dont believe me check out Shawn Sdezego's build.  :thumbup:


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> :laugh:
> If you dont believe me check out Shawn Sdezego's build.  :thumbup:


 is right. That is very desirable.


----------



## Asian Andy (Mar 21, 2011)

*rack and pinion replacement*

So my steering rack hemorages fluid like a sive and im wondering what sort of headaches I can look forward to when replacing it. Any special tools? Any cheap ones out there for less that $200? Should i get a pint of blood ready at the hospital so when I start scrappin knuckles and punching the block due to frustration they are ready? Any help is much appreciated...


----------



## eurosportgti (Jan 15, 2003)

Asian Andy said:


> So my steering rack hemorages fluid like a sive and im wondering what sort of headaches I can look forward to when replacing it. Any special tools? Any cheap ones out there for less that $200? Should i get a pint of blood ready at the hospital so when I start scrappin knuckles and punching the block due to frustration they are ready? Any help is much appreciated...


Its a quick and easy to swap out racks. 4 bolts on the K-frame and just undo your tie rods. I have 2 for sale if you are interested


----------



## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

Don't forget to support the engine/transmission when you drop the k-frame. It's not bad. I did it last year for the first time. Looks harder then it is.



eurosportgti said:


> Its a quick and easy to swap out racks. 4 bolts on the K-frame and just undo your tie rods. I have 2 for sale if you are interested


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

TheLateJetta said:


> Is there a supplier who makes a billet aluminum replacement part? Or any other material that lasts longer than the OEM parts? Granted the OE parts last plenty of time but I'm curious.
> 
> Would it even be a good idea to have metal guides?


Metal cannot be used for the timing chain guides due to causing metal bits floating in your engine as they would break down. The plastic that is used is the best possible combination of engineered life and reliability. Normally 150-200k on stock chains is not unheard of.


----------



## Jow wow (Oct 15, 2008)

*BBS related question*

I picked up a set of BBS FC 02.. 15x6.5 et40 5x114.3

Will these fit right with adaptors?

What adaptors are recommended?

92 VR Corrado


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Jow wow said:


> I picked up a set of BBS FC 02.. 15x6.5 et40 5x114.3
> 
> Will these fit right with adaptors?
> 
> ...












^^Like these??? :sly:

IMHO, those wheels aren't worth the adapters (hassle and price wise)


----------



## Jow wow (Oct 15, 2008)

Yep those are the ones... 

Got them for free from the junkyard I work at... only thing is I dont have the caps for them. 

I think they might look nice if polished and or cleaned up a bit...


----------



## Jow wow (Oct 15, 2008)

Any one ever put these on a Rado? Pics?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Jow wow said:


> Yep those are the ones...
> 
> Got them for free from the junkyard I work at... only thing is I dont have the caps for them.
> 
> I think they might look nice if polished and or cleaned up a bit...


Not worth the adaptors.... Only 15x6.5?

Go find some better looking wheels that are bigger.


----------



## Jow wow (Oct 15, 2008)

The stock rims are 15x6.5 et 43 

And I like the way they look.. the price is right at $0

Sorry, I dont have $1.5-5K to blow on rims


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Jow wow said:


> The stock rims are 15x6.5 et 43
> 
> And I like the way they look.. the price is right at $0
> 
> Sorry, I dont have $1.5-5K to blow on rims


I think you didn't understand the point trying to be made: *adapters are expensive*, so IN MY HUMBLE OPINION those wheels do not worth the $$$ to be spend on making them fit...but hey in the end of the day its your money, your car and whatever makes you happy 

Good luck :beer:


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## Jow wow (Oct 15, 2008)

How expensive you talkin?

http://www.projectnissan.com/shopping/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=57&idproduct=847

under $300 for a set of four? Is that considered expensive?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Jow wow said:


> How expensive you talkin?
> 
> http://www.projectnissan.com/shopping/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=57&idproduct=847
> 
> under $300 for a set of four? Is that considered expensive?


I'm talking adapters that are more expensive than the wheels market/selling value :sly:....
Seriously, *its probably just me*, but I wouldn't spend nothing for those wheels

Check out adaptec-speedware since you're doing this 
Again good luck


----------



## stiefon (Jul 26, 2011)

*My Franken-raddo*

So I have a 1990 G60 that has been swapped for VR6. Unfortunately the person that was building it invested my money wrong and left me with an unfinished car that I can't work on. I want it back up and running and am wondering what the best way to go about it would be. I'm thinking starting from scratch cause i don't trust the motor that's in it, and the wiring is all wrong, the wing doesn't even work now. Please help i miss my beloved car and need it back. Thanks for any input


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

I asked this a while ago, don't remember if anyone answered... but... I have no A/C, and I'm wondering what the first step/list of steps to combat the problem would be. I was told there is nothing in the system, is the first step to try filling it and see what happens, or could that cause a problem?


----------



## excreations (Jul 31, 2007)

Tried posting in the suspension forums, but no one responded.

Hey car in question is a 90 corrado, I've had some B&G coils installed on it for a few months now, and I really love the ride I get with them. The other day I had my hood up helping a buddy jump his car, I had my wheels on full lock, and I noticed the top of of the strut towers sat a bit different. I'm not sure if this is something which just started happening, or if its always been like this ( I can't recall the last time I had my hood open with my wheels at full lock.). Since I've never really noticed it I'm not sure if it's a normal thing. It may just be more noticeable because of the flat plates at the top of the strut towers. Either way can anyone shed some light on this. Am I a total suspension noob, or is something wrong? You can notice them moving as you turn the wheel, the struts dont spin, they just kind of move. Here are some pictures to explain what I'm talking about.

Here they are with the wheels straight. looks like there's a bit of negative camber.









Heres what they look like when the wheels are fully turned to the left. If i turn them all the way to the right there positions are just inverted.









Do i need to replace a bushing or something, reinstall them, or just let them be? It drives the same as it has since they have been installed, which i personally think is a really nice ride. Can you guys please help me out? Thanks in advance. :beer:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

excreations said:


> Tried posting in the suspension forums, but no one responded.
> 
> Hey car in question is a 90 corrado, I've had some B&G coils installed on it for a few months now, and I really love the ride I get with them. The other day I had my hood up helping a buddy jump his car, I had my wheels on full lock, and I noticed the top of of the strut towers sat a bit different. I'm not sure if this is something which just started happening, or if its always been like this ( I can't recall the last time I had my hood open with my wheels at full lock.). Since I've never really noticed it I'm not sure if it's a normal thing. It may just be more noticeable because of the flat plates at the top of the strut towers. Either way can anyone shed some light on this. Am I a total suspension noob, or is something wrong? You can notice them moving as you turn the wheel, the struts dont spin, they just kind of move. Here are some pictures to explain what I'm talking about.
> 
> ...


tl;dr

Your strut mounts are done. Go get new ones. Better yet go VR6 HD conversion.


----------



## excreations (Jul 31, 2007)

Thanks a lot. I'll get on it.:thumbup:

If I'm going to do the strut mount conversion, on a set of coils do I need an entire kit. (pictured below)








, or just the strut mounts themselves? I know If i was doing this on a standard suspension I would need the entire kit, just not sure what the deal is with a set of coilovers. I'm guessing I still need the entire conversion rather than just the strut mounts.


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

will a MK3 vr6 3" downpipe and 3" exhaust fit on a Corrado SLC? The seller says they will but I just wanted to verify before I buy it. He said that the same setup worked on his MK2 as well. Thanks


----------



## ISM (Jul 27, 2011)

nvm


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> will a MK3 vr6 3" downpipe and 3" exhaust fit on a Corrado SLC? The seller says they will but I just wanted to verify before I buy it. He said that the same setup worked on his MK2 as well. Thanks


 Yeah this is not general or anything.  Who's 3" Downpipe, and Who's 3" Exhaust? 

Will it fit? Probably. Will you need to re-weld some hangers? Maybe.


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Yeah this is not general or anything.  Who's 3" Downpipe, and Who's 3" Exhaust?
> 
> Will it fit? Probably. Will you need to re-weld some hangers? Maybe.


As far as a brand its all custom by schimmel so he says. The guy has same atp manifold I have with all vband connections.

Here is a pic of the setup. Sorry for the general questions. my first turbo build and I wanna make sure I get it right and this setup could save me some coin.


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

*1993 Corrado SLC blink code help.*

I want to check for DTC codes as my C misfired a few times the other day. First off I need to find out if that is even possible as I seem to find conflicting information. My C no longer has abs as it has been deleted (thankfully). Unfortunately when that was done the abs/brake light was unplugged so the abs light will go out. I plugged it back in and the abs light stays on at all times, inlcuding when I try to get it to flash codes. I've also read that I may need a test light to flash codes, is that true? Maybe vag-com?


----------



## RowBoatsVdubs (Mar 18, 2008)

:banghead::banghead: Radiator Options? :banghead::banghead:

So someone on the tex told me a while back that a GLX radiator will work in my corrado and they were wrong, go figure :screwy: 

background info: I'm doing a VR6 from a GLX swap into a g60 corrado shell.

Tried to just sit my GLX rad in the rado today and put my core support back in place and no dice. it sits about 2-3 inches higher than the core support and is too long to sit on the lower portion of the lower rad support. 

my questions: 

What are my other OEM radiator options for a VR6 Corrado are there? 

and 

If just buy a new SLC radiator, Will my GLX fans/ temp sensor or at least the wires still plug into or bolt on it?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RowBoatsVdubs said:


> :banghead::banghead: Radiator Options? :banghead::banghead:
> 
> So someone on the tex told me a while back that a GLX radiator will work in my corrado and they were wrong, go figure :screwy:
> 
> ...


You can look into all aluminum Scirocco rads 

May be too wide for a VR tho, possibly the Mishimoto


----------



## mk_ultra (Jan 31, 2009)

Does anyone know the difficulty of swapping a transmission from a mark 3 gti vr6 into a corrado vr6? I am told that its a direct swap but can i swap over the shifter unit as well without modifications?


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

how does one tell if the AC system has been upgraded to accept the new collant stuff? ive never messed with that and my system needs a recharge.
where is the fitting or whatever?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

RowBoatsVdubs said:


> :banghead::banghead: Radiator Options? :banghead::banghead:
> 
> So someone on the tex told me a while back that a GLX radiator will work in my corrado and they were wrong, go figure :screwy:
> 
> ...


It will work, by modifying the lower rad support to gain the clearance up top needed. Corrado Sean's car is one off the top of my head where he got rid of the angled radiator and fitted a MK3 one. If you have A/C its going to be a little tough to get it in, but still doable. 



mk_ultra said:


> Does anyone know the difficulty of swapping a transmission from a mark 3 gti vr6 into a corrado vr6? I am told that its a direct swap but can i swap over the shifter unit as well without modifications?


Same Transmission with exception of Final Drive ratio. Direct bolt in, and no need to swap the shifter unless it is broken. 



cyberstasi said:


> how does one tell if the AC system has been upgraded to accept the new collant stuff? ive never messed with that and my system needs a recharge.
> where is the fitting or whatever?


The fittings are at the Expansion Vavle poking out of the firewall by the passenger side strut tower. 


:thumbup:


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

anyone know the cure time for the vw oem silicone sealant (for oil sumps)?

also, as I was torquing the oil pan bolts to spec (15ft/lb), the gasket (not the sealant, the gasket) started leaking out the sides on 3 bolts - should I just roll without the gasket, or should I go buy another gasket (at $25) :banghead:

edit again: brand new oil pan, and brand new gasket

edit of an edit of an edit: I've seen some people post that the bolts on a vr should be 11ft/lbs rather than 15. 15ft/lbs crushed and tore my brand new gasket


----------



## FlatlanderSJ (Oct 4, 2007)

maybe someone will be able to help me out with my misfire?

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5387375-random-misfire-at-all-rpms


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## G60Scuzz (Nov 14, 2003)

mk_ultra said:


> Does anyone know the difficulty of swapping a transmission from a mark 3 gti vr6 into a corrado vr6? I am told that its a direct swap but can i swap over the shifter unit as well without modifications?


The shifter weight shape is the only thing thats differeny, the gti uses one that sits over the tranny more because of how the batt tray sits in there. This doesnt cause an issue in the corrado but it would using the corrado one in the gti. The weights are not interchangable between shift towers.


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## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

valet said:


> anyone know the cure time for the vw oem silicone sealant (for oil sumps)?
> 
> also, as I was torquing the oil pan bolts to spec (15ft/lb), the gasket (not the sealant, the gasket) started leaking out the sides on 3 bolts - should I just roll without the gasket, or should I go buy another gasket (at $25) :banghead:
> 
> ...


 I'm not sure what VW sealant you are using, but the Original stuff is white, and is in a white tube. It doesn't cure. It's not supposed to.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

I use Permatex 3H Aircraft Sealant on the Oil pan Gasket, Pan, and Block to ensure no leaks. :thumbup:


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## regiturner (Sep 12, 2004)

*Remote hatch release for Corrado*

does the '92 SLC have a remote hatch release and if so, where is it located?:banghead:

thanks:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

regiturner said:


> does the '92 SLC have a remote hatch release and if so, where is it located?:banghead:
> 
> thanks:


^^No


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

regiturner said:


> does the '92 SLC have a remote hatch release and if so, where is it located?:banghead:
> 
> thanks:


Not OEM at least. 

Xtremevdub has completed a Hatch Pop Button using one from a B3 Passat, and my Keyless entry system has the provision to add trunk pop by swapping to a MK3 Jetta Tumbler assembly and hooking the keyless entry signal to the popper.


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> cyberstasi said:
> 
> 
> > how does one tell if the AC system has been upgraded to accept the new collant stuff? ive never messed with that and my system needs a recharge.
> ...


Thanks for the info. :thumbup: Any way to tell if the system has been converted by looking at the fitting? I've heard that they are different but i have no clue how you tell.


one other random question. Im in a bind and need to replace my passanger side door, but I dont really want to pull the dash the dash and do it the proper way so that I can get to all the wiring. is it possible to get to the wiring by removing either the knee pad and/or pulling the glovebox/AC vent? I just dont have the time available to me to pull the dash and do it with full access.


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## BlueS14 (Apr 6, 2011)

I purchased a replacement fan for my 92 vr6 rado. On the new motor, there are only three terminals instead of 4 like the original bosch. I purchased the fan based on a shop telling me the fan only worked on high speed due to the "other speeds being burnt out on the fan motor itself" After connecting the new fan, it doesnt work at all.:banghead: So i ran a temporary adjustable fan switch to control the new motor, which works for now. My question is should my next course of action be to replace the FCM?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

BlueS14 said:


> I purchased a replacement fan for my 92 vr6 rado. On the new motor, there are only three terminals instead of 4 like the original bosch. I purchased the fan based on a shop telling me the fan only worked on high speed due to the "other speeds being burnt out on the fan motor itself" After connecting the new fan, it doesnt work at all.:banghead: So i ran a temporary adjustable fan switch to control the new motor, which works for now. My question is should my next course of action be to replace the FCM?


You should have tested the FCM first. Did you check the fuse on the top of it?


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## BlueS14 (Apr 6, 2011)

Yes, both fuses good, one 5 and one 30. The auxillary fuel pump works, even with the fan not. I really needed to replace the fan anyways, shook the whole car when it ran, new one is much smoother. 

Can the FCM power the pump and still be non-functional for the fan?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

BlueS14 said:


> Yes, both fuses good, one 5 and one 30. The auxillary fuel pump works, even with the fan not. I really needed to replace the fan anyways, shook the whole car when it ran, new one is much smoother.
> 
> Can the FCM power the pump and still be non-functional for the fan?


Yes. Lots of times the Auxiliary pump will run with a bad fcm causing drains and the fans may or may not run. Check your OEM Fan harness all the way back to the ground wire.


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## BlueS14 (Apr 6, 2011)

DUBZAK said:


> Yes. Lots of times the Auxiliary pump will run with a bad fcm causing drains and the fans may or may not run. Check your OEM Fan harness all the way back to the ground wire.


Just to be sure...the 30 fuse goes near the firewall and the 5 towards the frontrnd on the fcm...correct?


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## cheebs (May 12, 2003)

What is the nut size for the exhaust manifold? (m8 self-locking?) 

Is there an ARP stud/nut alternative?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cheebs said:


> What is the nut size for the exhaust manifold? (m8 self-locking?)
> 
> Is there an ARP stud/nut alternative?


It is a stover nut. M8. It is also copper coated.

N 90085001


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## cheebs (May 12, 2003)

TheBurninator said:


> It is a stover nut. M8. It is also copper coated.
> 
> N 90085001


stank you very much! :thumbup:


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## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

sup guys :beer::beer: for every one lol any ways i got in to a small accident about a month ago and i need a new rear beam i have a 90 g60. And info on any car i can pull it out of i was told b3 passat was one of them any thing eles would be greatly appreciated thanks :laugh:


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## deemee (Aug 7, 2011)

couple questions...

whats one of the better sites to get OEM parts from? like some body parts and engine/gearbox parts

can you use the stock seat rails with Recaro seats?

I plan on picking up a VR6 to swap into my 92 corrado, what maintenance do you guys recommend since is has 93,xxx miles whiles it's out of the car...


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

any real difference between early and late oil filter housing caps and filters? I still get a discount at my old job, and it turns out that they've been selling me the oil filter off of the later style VRs (Mahle ox 160 or p/n 021 115 562ML) - lucky for me (or so I think), the PO installed the later cap on my car so the new oil filter type works. All was fine and dandy until they (my old work) decided to sell me the correct oil filter for my car (mahle ox 125 or p/n 021 115 562AML for a 92 VR). 

Does either filter any better than the other, or is one specific to OBDI or OBDII, or should I just forget about finding the better of the two and asking work to sell me the "wrong" one?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

G60Ron said:


> sup guys :beer::beer: for every one lol any ways i got in to a small accident about a month ago and i need a new rear beam i have a 90 g60. And info on any car i can pull it out of i was told b3 passat was one of them any thing eles would be greatly appreciated thanks :laugh:


B3 Passat, G60 Corrado, SLC Corrado, B4 Passat, MK3


deemee said:


> couple questions...
> 
> whats one of the better sites to get OEM parts from? like some body parts and engine/gearbox parts
> 
> ...


The last question isn't general or anything. 

Look, if it is out, do EVERYTHING, so when it goes back in, it does not need to come back out. Really though, should have bout a VR6 Corrado if that's what you wanted. Besides the motor, do you have all the other VR6 Spec Parts? I like swap cars that are done clean. Its the haggard ones that fail miserably due to people short changing stuff. 
Suspension
Hood
Core Support
Lights
Bumpers

Good luck you are going to need it. 




valet said:


> any real difference between early and late oil filter housing caps and filters? I still get a discount at my old job, and it turns out that they've been selling me the oil filter off of the later style VRs (Mahle ox 160 or p/n 021 115 562ML) - lucky for me (or so I think), the PO installed the later cap on my car so the new oil filter type works. All was fine and dandy until they (my old work) decided to sell me the correct oil filter for my car (mahle ox 125 or p/n 021 115 562AML for a 92 VR).
> 
> Does either filter any better than the other, or is one specific to OBDI or OBDII, or should I just forget about finding the better of the two and asking work to sell me the "wrong" one?


Yes there are differences. IIRC If using late filter with early housing, the filter will crush and starve the motor. Since you are using a mismatch of parts, some visual inspection is needed to assure the lower cap is the only difference.


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## cata (May 19, 2006)

*VR6 Engine Swap*

I'm an engine swap virgin :laugh: this is my first one ever. I'll be taking my done up VR6 from my beat up Corrado and putting it in my nice once. I don't want to mess with the exhaust manifold bolts however.

Is it possible to swap VR6's in a Corrado by leaving the lower rad support and exhaust downpipe in place? I'll be swapping engines together with their transmissions, with the driveshafts unbolted at the tranny flanges. I'm about to do this tomorrow, is this possible before I have at er?

Thanks gents


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Doing it right means doing it right. 

Take the downpipe off, leave the manifolds on.


----------



## cata (May 19, 2006)

Haha you actually just reminded me, I have fresh SS exhaust manifold studs lying around and I recall an old suspicion of my manifolds leaking exhaust gas. Guess it's time for some new exhaust manifold gaskets and some re-gasket matching while I'm in there.

One more thing, as you know, those plastic clips for the engine fuel lines are bolted onto the valve cover. If I took off just those two valve cover bolts by the oil breather hose, would it be enough to cause the cover to warp or anything? It's the oldschool aluminum type.

Cheers


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## UrSeRiOuS (Mar 19, 2005)

*Radiator fan always getting power!*

Not really a "new guy", but I believe I have some electrical gremlins or I wired something wrong when I built my car about 3 years ago.

This is on a 1992 SLC VRT. It has an OBDII engine harness. I think I used some of the original harness when I was putting it all together. Mainly for the ABS and batteries I believe.

Anyway, the problem is I'm getting over 12v to the radiator fan motor at all times. Even when I have the radiator thermo switch and the fan control module unplugged. The radiator fan will not turn on at this point because it is fried. If you plug it in you will burn your hand trying to unplug it. Ask me how I know this...:what: 

I dont have a Corrado Bentley. It seems the more I buy them the more they disappear.:banghead: Any help is greatly appreciated. Much beer at H2O for those who help. :beer:


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

DUBZAK said:


> Yes there are differences. IIRC If using late filter with early housing, the filter will crush and starve the motor. Since you are using a mismatch of parts, some visual inspection is needed to assure the lower cap is the only difference.


as far as I can tell, my car has the later filter housing - cannot tell for sure as the part numbers are obscured, but the whole assembly looks like http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Corrado--VR6_12v/Search/021_115_403_D/ES268886/ I've been running the later style filter for some time now (3-4 oil changes) without incident. Filters look the same, structurally, coming out as they did going in 

edit: found this on dubnutz " *OBD1 upgrade? You can upgrade to the more readily available OBD2 filters by simply using this end cap on your obd1 motor - cap design differs @ are not interchangeable unless you use the corresponding filter type* "


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

okay new question:










this is a picture of the part of the block near the flywheel where the oil pan bolts screw into. can I jb weld the piece back on, or am I basically looking to get a new block? That said, how imperative is it that that bolt be covered by that "cap"? Could I put everything back together sans that cap (and run some rtv around that bolt head)?

bolt is in the picture for illustrative purposes only (that's not how the part was cracked)

cracked piece is part of the lower timing chain cover - should I replace or try and fix it while it's still on the car? (only reason I ask is because timing chains look good :banghead:


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## G0to60 (Jun 23, 2003)

Quick question about the light in the 12V socket. How do you take the bulb out of the holder? Can you just pull it out or is it soldered in? I tried pulling on it a bit but didn't want to break the bulb in there.


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## cata (May 19, 2006)

It's soldered in there, it will take a very delicate touch to solder something else in its place.


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## G0to60 (Jun 23, 2003)

Bummer. That's what I was afraid of. What's the best way to replace this bulb? Just get in there with a soldering iron and be careful?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

valet said:


> okay new question:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I cannot tell by the picture, bit if this is on the lower timing cover, replace the cover. Even if the chains look good they still have stretched a little since new. Always a good Idea to replace them and everything else while you are in there.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

Quick question. I am Putting back my dash. A friend that shall remain nameless, helped me take it out... But I cant ,for my life, figure out where the plug below goes. 
He says its going somewhere in the HVAC but I doubt he remembers and I wont see him for a few days and driving dash-less sucks.

Any one knows where that white plug goes? 
Pics...


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## Raddo_92 (Aug 12, 2011)

*Just bought my first corrado she was sitting...*

Ok so 92 Corrado slc
Just picked it up it had been sitting for about 6 years before i bought it. The guy said when the brought it out they changed the oil and turned it over without starting, so the engine seems smooth and fine no ticks no knocks thats why I bought it. Now for the issues for starters it had a very rough idle stays between 450 and 800rpms but sounds like missfiring. under acceleration it seems to miss fire at random times. Also im not sure if its the gauge or the sensor but the coolant temp guage does not work. i keep an eye on the oil temp usally stays about 220. Im not sure if it has a CEL as for there is no light on dash to show so. Any help is great thanks guys


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## deemee (Aug 7, 2011)

DUBZAK said:


> B3 Passat, G60 Corrado, SLC Corrado, B4 Passat, MK3
> 
> The last question isn't general or anything.
> 
> ...


the corrado is a vr6 but the internals on the original motor are chewed and shot so i found a decent replacement for an ok price... and when do most people re do the timing chains and guides? mechanic told me i'll be fine but just want some input...


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

Hey guys, I'm going to the Pick n Pull today to pull a moon roof out of a b4 passat. Just curious if I'm gonna need any special tools and if anybody know what all tools I'm gonna need that would be very helpful. Thanks in advance.  :thumbup:


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

A 10mm a 13mm and screw drivers and such. Nothing special
Test the sunroof mechanism before you buy it.


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## cata (May 19, 2006)

G0to60 said:


> Bummer. That's what I was afraid of. What's the best way to replace this bulb? Just get in there with a soldering iron and be careful?


That's about all you've got. I never bothered with it because it seems like too much hassle. The bulb has very long legs though, so make sure you extend them as much as you can before you try cutting them off. Then solder the new bulb onto them and push it back in there.




cata said:


> those plastic clips for the engine fuel lines are bolted onto the valve cover. If I took off just those two valve cover bolts by the oil breather hose, would it be enough to cause the cover to warp or anything? It's the oldschool aluminum type.


Anyone regarding this? I'm about to pull the engine in a few hrs.


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

xtremevdub said:


> A 10mm a 13mm and screw drivers and such. Nothing special
> Test the sunroof mechanism before you buy it.


Exactly what I wanted to hear. :thumbup: Thanks man.


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Can you still drive a g60 with the silencer box on the super charger removed? If so how much louder does the super charger sound.


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## Enraged007 (Apr 29, 2009)

*Fan switch..*

Three questions for the guru's here..

1990 G60 Corrado

1) How do you install a billet BBM belt tensioner?

2) Which color wire to the radiator fan is the high speed?

3) Is it possible to stray from G12 coolant? If so what kind will do? Someone told me an alternative is GM Prestone.


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## jarski (Oct 30, 2009)

xtremevdub said:


> Quick question. I am Putting back my dash. A friend that shall remain nameless, helped me take it out... But I cant ,for my life, figure out where the plug below goes.
> He says its going somewhere in the HVAC but I doubt he remembers and I wont see him for a few days and driving dash-less sucks.
> 
> Any one knows where that white plug goes?
> Pics...



Does it go to the cigarette lighter?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Enraged007 said:


> Three questions for the guru's here..
> 
> 1990 G60 Corrado
> 
> 1) How do you install a billet BBM belt tensioner?


^^I assume you're talking about the "cap" BBM sells...









If so, I had that setup before on my car (previous owner) and the oe tensioner had its one side, where the round bushing part is, cut off so that side was flat and the billet BBM cap installed....I don't know if that the correct way to mount it but that was how mine used to be 

oe setup:









Unfortunately no pic of mine installed 


_Edit: looked like this:_


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## VpfinnersW (Jun 14, 2005)

Enraged007 said:


> Three questions for the guru's here..
> 
> 1990 G60 Corrado
> 
> ...


answers in your quote above


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^I assume you're talking about the "cap" BBM sells...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


whats the point of this? does it just" look" nicer then stock or is there actual upgrade? I dont meen to come off like a. a$$ hole. I'm just curious.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

g60301 said:


> whats the point of this? does it just" look" nicer then stock or is there actual upgrade? I dont meen to come off like a. a$$ hole. I'm just curious.


Theoreticaly, with the adjustable BBM tensioner cap,you can run different size s/charger pullies without having to change the belt every time a smaller or bigger pulley is used 

Its all in BBMs product description, google search and you shall find it, lol


----------



## Craige-O (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Had a blown fuse for my overhead door light. Replaced fuse and now the light still doesn't work. Any ideas on what to check for?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Craige-O said:


> Had a blown fuse for my overhead door light. Replaced fuse and now the light still doesn't work. Any ideas on what to check for?


Not working in either position or just doesn't come on when u open the door? 
What I would do since the fuse replacement didn't fix it, is pull the dome light (easy to do - pops out) and check the wiring to see if there is a cut wire somewhere


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## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Theoreticaly, with the adjustable BBM tensioner cap,you can run different size s/charger pullies without having to change the belt every time a smaller or bigger pulley is used
> 
> Its all in BBMs product description, google search and you shall find it, lol


Ahh. Pretty convenient if you change your pulleys all the
Time.


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## Craige-O (Mar 1, 2002)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Not working in either position or just doesn't come on when u open the door?
> What I would do since the fuse replacement didn't fix it, is pull the dome light (easy to do - pops out) and check the wiring to see if there is a cut wire somewhere



Doesn't work at all.. I need to test the wires then. Does the dome light assym just pull out or is there a special way to do it?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Craige-O said:


> Doesn't work at all.. I need to test the wires then. Does the dome light assym just pull out or is there a special way to do it?


Have you ever taken out a switch on the dash? Its the same way - insert a (thin) flathead screwdriver into one side and gently pull. Be carefull Corrado plastics tend to break very easy


----------



## Craige-O (Mar 1, 2002)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Have you ever taken out a switch on the dash? Its the same way - insert a (thin) flathead screwdriver into one side and gently pull. Be carefull Corrado plastics tend to break very easy



Took it out a few hours ago. No power coming to dome-light or sunroof. Fuse is good. I think I must have a short or a bad wire somewhere..


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Craige-O said:


> Took it out a few hours ago. No power coming to dome-light or sunroof. Fuse is good. I think I must have a short or a bad wire somewhere..


:thumbup: and


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## RRADO GIRLIE (Feb 2, 2009)

This may have been answered around the block here but I want my fenders pulled not rolled because I like the way the squaring looks. I've heard a few ideas on ways to do it. Is there a type of shop I should be looking for to perform this. or Will this end up costing so much that it might be cheaper to grab spare fenders and wide body the rear and just pull both and say hell with the squaring?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RRADO GIRLIE said:


> This may have been answered around the block here but I want my fenders pulled not rolled because I like the way the squaring looks. I've heard a few ideas on ways to do it. Is there a type of shop I should be looking for to perform this. or Will this end up costing so much that it might be cheaper to grab spare fenders and wide body the rear and just pull both and say hell with the squaring?


Sounds like you have no clue what the difference is.

Rolling the arches allows you to keep the body line. I assume this is what you mean by "squaring". This can be done with a fender roller and a heatgun

Pulling the arches removes the body line and is done with body hammers and time. Paint is required this route.

Run proper fitting wheels and you wont have this problem


----------



## RRADO GIRLIE (Feb 2, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Sounds like you have no clue what the difference is.
> 
> Rolling the arches allows you to keep the body line. I assume this is what you mean by "squaring". This can be done with a fender roller and a heatgun
> 
> ...


I was referring to rolling the fenders which I thought was bringing the end of the fenders to a point. like this pic My bf pointed out that pulling the fenders is the proper term. I guess when I looked at it I thought it was rolled under, but I guess its pulled out instead. MY B









This looks super sexy but I still like the squared ends. I would like to end up rocking some 17's but I have yet to find some that would piss you off as much as the T/a ones 
Its rolling Avus' for dailies. Ive got until November to do any time consuming mods then this baby comes and I'll be driving the Passat for a while. Maybe I will just do some rolling and wheel searching. Ive got a nice booboo on my passenger arch from some illegal backing into me and not having insurance, or existing for that matter. He never paid to fix it. I figure they can straighten it out when doing the work. 

* initial question . . what kind of shop am I looking for?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RRADO GIRLIE said:


> I have yet to find some that would piss you off as much as the T/a ones
> 
> * initial question . . what kind of shop am I looking for?


They really don't piss me off, but my opinion of them seems to piss you off 

I would look for a competent shop. Talk to them about the work you want to do and discuss with them how it is done so you know it will come out how you want it. Also when I do it I pull to the wheels. Meaning I have the wheels I want to run first so there is a reference.


----------



## RRADO GIRLIE (Feb 2, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> They really don't piss me off, but my opinion of them seems to piss you off
> 
> I would look for a competent shop. Talk to them about the work you want to do and discuss with them how it is done so you know it will come out how you want it. Also when I do it I pull to the wheels. Meaning I have the wheels I want to run first so there is a reference.


well poop. Someone made a good suggestion that maybe I might spend less taking the wheels to a wheel manufacturer and having them Replicate them in a size and bolt pattern that would fit. I feel the time for these wheels is coming to an end.


----------



## Craige-O (Mar 1, 2002)

RedYellowWhite said:


> :thumbup: and


So far no luck.. Think this might take a minute to find!


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

Craige-O said:


> So far no luck.. Think this might take a minute to find!


It time to trace and test the wire out. Ohms out the wires. It could be bad dome switch. Test out the wires first and use your bentley book too as your guide. Good luck and need a lot of :beer::beer::beer:


----------



## madonion (May 1, 2007)

*Cluster Swap*

I'm swapping a vr6 cluster in a g60 90. The blinker don't work the same. I would need to add a pin in the cluster connector I was wondering If I can get pins for the connector that is behind the cluster ? Or Is there cluster harness that would fit for the vr6 cluster ? Would a cluster harness from a mkIII 2.0L fit ?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

madonion said:


> I'm swapping a vr6 cluster in a g60 90. The blinker don't work the same. I would need to add a pin in the cluster connector I was wondering If I can get pins for the connector that is behind the cluster ? Or Is there cluster harness that would fit for the vr6 cluster ? Would a cluster harness from a mkIII 2.0L fit ?


Swap in a Corrado or Passat VR6 cluster harness if you have hopes of the MFA still being usable.


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

anyone know what wheel this is:











no company/model markings


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

I got a question for ya and should be pretty simple. I'm wondering what the reason is for all of these cracked fog lights? I recently purchased a set of French fogs and I do not want them to crack. I'm going to be purchasing clear laminX for them. But what I'm wondering is if the heat from the bulbs is the problem or is it just from pebbels hitting them while driving?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Heat is the reason for Cracked Fog Lights. 

Upgrade to a HID and it will not crack.


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Heat is the reason for Cracked Fog Lights.
> 
> Upgrade to a HID and it will not crack.


:thumbup:


----------



## RowBoatsVdubs (Mar 18, 2008)

Does anyone know where to find these new?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RowBoatsVdubs said:


> Does anyone know where to find these new?


Dealership is a surefire place.

I would try McMaster-Carr.


----------



## IMWALKIN (Mar 28, 2002)

*oil pan*

does anyone make a larger cap steel oil pan? I know schrick makes a cast one.. is stock 5qt? also does an ABA baffle/gasket work ok? all for a early 90 g60:beer:


----------



## RowBoatsVdubs (Mar 18, 2008)

What am I over looking?

I tried to fire up the VR6 I just swapped into my G60 Corrado last night, cranks but no start.

When I turn the key to ON the fuel pump doesn't run at all and I can feel NONE of my relay's clicking in the relay box. I jumped the fuel pump at the relay box and the pump runs up but still no start.... 

ECU has power at pin 54 when key is on.


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

RowBoatsVdubs said:


> Does anyone know where to find these new?


 + N 906 437 01 tie wrap with bracket for weld pin


----------



## charlypistolas29 (Oct 30, 2010)

*cv axle*

I'm having trouble finding the socket that I need to remove the cc axle anyone knows what kind I need???w


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

charlypistolas29 said:


> I'm having trouble finding the socket that I need to remove the cc axle anyone knows what kind I need???w


triple square.


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

What do you think the tire specs are on this? I want to replicate the look, my best guess is 215/40/r16


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

any special break-in requirements for older motor with brand new cams, timing chains, and clutch job? Corrado has been down for too long and I'm tired of the b5!


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

IMWALKIN said:


> does anyone make a larger cap steel oil pan? I know schrick makes a cast one.. is stock 5qt? also does an ABA baffle/gasket work ok? all for a early 90 g60:beer:


I'm look'n too. Just found this from Shawn's site for 06A/058 1.8T 20V. I just emailed to see if he has one that will cram into a G60 bay.


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Got word back on the oil pan ...

$339 USD for a steel one and $439 USD for an aluminum one. I'm get'g a steelie to increase my new motors drinking capacity.


----------



## VpfinnersW (Jun 14, 2005)

I'm having a real tough time trying to disconnect the speedo cable from the back of the instrument cluster so I can remove it. I can get my finger tips on the tabs where the cable connects to the cluster, and I've been squeezing the hell out of them, but that damn speedo cable won't disconnect from the cluster! 

I've already searched and heard this is a huge PITA....any tips/tricks you guys might have?

my cut up, bruised finger tips and hands will thank you


----------



## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

Alrighty Then.

I'm sure one of you Fockers know what belt to use if the AC and PS is taken out. Let's hear it. Spanks, in advance.

For Kyle, so that he (hopefully) can read this post


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

NYCGTM said:


> Alrighty Then.
> 
> I'm sure one of you Fockers know what belt to use if the AC and PS is taken out. Let's hear it. Spanks, in advance.
> 
> For Kyle, so that he (hopefully) can read this post


I cant stop looking at the pictar!!!

Belt size:
6PK-1105


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

she swallowed the cork. :laugh: I did not see her spit it out at least.


----------



## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

I know no one will read this after previous pic post, but thanks Kyle :thumbup:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

NYCGTM said:


>


/thread!!! 

Can we get a mod to lock this now?


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5407155-90-corrado-activ-questions


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

g60301 said:


> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5407155-90-corrado-activ-questions


I said /thread!!!!


----------



## Macks04GLI (Jul 20, 2007)

Sweet!!! i just found this thread. I just printed this entire thread and plan on putting in my bathroom so I can read through it while spending that "special" time alone. I've been into VWs since '04 but have only owned a Mk4 GLI. Sold it and now I own Allen's famous Sherry Pearl Widebody.

I have a lot to learn about this car, this engine and this whole Corrado life style. So I have a million questions and will do my best to search 'em out before posting.

However....I do need to know something really quick so keep the "Corrado" newbie insults to a minimum please. :thumbup:

What are normal reading for the oil pressure gauge. Mine has a factory gauge...well it looks factory..and I noticed it moves a good bit between 4-9ish. Is this normal? Thanks.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Macks04GLI said:


> Sweet!!! i just found this thread. I just printed this entire thread and plan on putting in my bathroom so I can read through it while spending that "special" time alone. I've been into VWs since '04 but have only owned a Mk4 GLI. Sold it and now I own Allen's famous Sherry Pearl Widebody.
> 
> I have a lot to learn about this car, this engine and this whole Corrado life style. So I have a million questions and will do my best to search 'em out before posting.
> 
> ...


Yep normal.

And you should make the bumpers line up on that car since Allen didn't.


----------



## Macks04GLI (Jul 20, 2007)

TheBurninator said:


> Yep normal.
> 
> And you should make the bumpers line up on that car since Allen didn't.


LOL! 

It's on the to do list with a few other things. The car will stay pretty much the same but I plan changing some small things....and align the bumpers


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Macks04GLI said:


> LOL!
> 
> It's on the to do list with a few other things. The car will stay pretty much the same but I plan changing some small things....and align the bumpers


I always had wondered why he spent so much money building those but didn't get the bumper right. :banghead::banghead:

And talk about hating when it was brought up. I thought he was going to die.

Do you have a set of the 301's on the car?


----------



## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

TheBurninator said:


> I cant stop looking at the pictar!!!


This is stricktly for that Pic/Gif I posted . . . Which came first? The bottle or the Kyle?


----------



## Macks04GLI (Jul 20, 2007)

TheBurninator said:


> I always had wondered why he spent so much money building those but didn't get the bumper right. :banghead::banghead:
> 
> And talk about hating when it was brought up. I thought he was going to die.
> 
> Do you have a set of the 301's on the car?


Yeah...I saw a thread on here where someone...maybe you...mentioned the bumper thing and he got a little touchy. LOL. Allen is okay in my book. By selling me this car he might have saved my marriage.

Yes, purchased as is with the 301s and few other goodies he just threw in cause he liked me :laugh: I'm thinking of tracking down the Green G60 and seeing if I can buy that one for the wife. Long shot I know...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

NYCGTM said:


> This is stricktly for that Pic/Gif I posted . . . Which came first? The bottle or the Kyle?


I am the bottle :laugh:


----------



## cstanley19 (Sep 23, 2006)

Green G60?.. I thought both of his cars were VR's, green was vr with a blower right?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

cstanley19 said:


> Green G60?.. I thought both of his cars were VR's, green was vr with a blower right?


^^Also had a chromed Shcrick/VWMS VGI inlet too IIRC....


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

would you bother lightening a vr6 flywheel? I think I have to resurface mine and wonder if I should lighten it while it's out.


----------



## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

Macks04GLI said:


> and this whole Corrado life style.


Its an alternative lifestyle like homosexuality. And i promise there will be times it sucks way more dick.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

valet said:


> would you bother lightening a vr6 flywheel? I think I have to resurface mine and wonder if I should lighten it while it's out.


Depends... is the machine shop reasonably priced to do it or would it be about the same cost to buy a light weight one?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

valet said:


> would you bother lightening a vr6 flywheel? I think I have to resurface mine and wonder if I should lighten it while it's out.


N/A yes. Boost not so light. (Although there are VR6 guys running flywheels as low as 7lbs) :screwy: 

When I swapped in the EIP 10LB Flywheel it felt like the car lost over 50FTlbs of Torque on the butt dyno. However the thing revs fast as hell (due to other components too).


----------



## VpfinnersW (Jun 14, 2005)

02GTIFREESKIER said:


> Its an alternative lifestyle like homosexuality. And i promise there will be times it sucks way more dick.


LMFAO 

I'd quote that if it didn't sound so gay, lol


----------



## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

I have a question is the 92 and 93 door cards the same?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

scrapper said:


> I have a question is the 92 and 93 door cards the same?


Nope. Different


----------



## Macks04GLI (Jul 20, 2007)

cstanley19 said:


> Green G60?.. I thought both of his cars were VR's, green was vr with a blower right?


 I'm prob mistaken. I thought it was G60. I've only seen pics of it...


----------



## Macks04GLI (Jul 20, 2007)

02GTIFREESKIER said:


> Its an alternative lifestyle like homosexuality. And i promise there will be times it sucks way more dick.


 :what: 

Good one. Yeah, all my friends here call it the million dollar Corrado...because it will take that much to keep it running. LOL! 

I'm up for the challenge....I think. :laugh:


----------



## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

TheBurninator said:


> Nope. Different


 Zanks


----------



## paulytits (Jun 13, 2007)

just a quick question... is there any difference between the NA headlights on a G60 and SLC???


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

quick question: new lifters and autotech 262 cams 

Exhaust cam lined up correctly and is now timed correctly. Intake cam goes in but we can't rotate it (with or without bearing caps torqued down) to time it correctly - what gives? intermediate and crank timing are dead on 


*1st beer to calm down edit* 
tried installing it with the passenger side of the cam's lobe pointed straight down (correct timing), but we can't push the cam down far enough to expose the studs to get the nuts on for the bearing caps. if we rotate the cam 180 degrees out of phase (retarded or advanced) the caps go on and we can torque the caps on. As soon as we rotate the cam to within a few degrees of correct timing, we cannot rotate the cam any more


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

paulytits said:


> just a quick question... is there any difference between the NA headlights on a G60 and SLC???


 Yes. The fit the Core Support Differently. 


valet said:


> quick question: new lifters and autotech 262 cams
> 
> Exhaust cam lined up correctly and is now timed correctly. Intake cam goes in but we can't rotate it (with or without bearing caps torqued down) to time it correctly - what gives? intermediate and crank timing are dead on
> 
> ...


 Bottom End is most likely out of time, and the resistance is a piston. Both Cams are Intake/Exhaust so I believe you mean the Front Camshaft? 

Break Out the Pipe wrench for this one, have another person confirm Bottom End is indeed TDC. Or the cam will not go in correctly. 

Also where is your cam alignment tool?


----------



## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

DUBZAK said:


> Yes. The fit the Core Support Differently.


 And slightly different lens pattern and length i believe (vr6 are bigger to adjust to the bigger vr fenders). And like DUBZAK mentioned above, can be seen on picture below. 
There are numbers on the surface glass that also can be looked at to tell the difference between them. G60 Ecodes have 3" E's with circles around them. VR6 Ecodes have only one "E". 
Pic taken from Corrado Club of Canada. Eh?!?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

NYCGTM said:


> And slightly different lens pattern and length i believe (vr6 are bigger to adjust to the bigger vr fenders). And like DUBZAK mentioned above, can be seen on picture below.
> There are numbers on the surface glass that also can be looked at to tell the difference between them. G60 Ecodes have 3" E's with circles around them. VR6 Ecodes have only one "E".


 


paulytits said:


> just a quick question... is there any difference between the *NA* headlights on a G60 and SLC???


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

DUBZAK said:


> Bottom End is most likely out of time, and the resistance is a piston. Both Cams are Intake/Exhaust so I believe you mean the Front Camshaft?
> 
> Break Out the Pipe wrench for this one, have another person confirm Bottom End is indeed TDC. Or the cam will not go in correctly.
> 
> Also where is your cam alignment tool?


 bottom is timed correctly - piston is TDC on the upstroke, ground off tooth at flywheel is pointed at 9 o'clock (at the split of the crank bearing cap and the engine block, and the intermediate shaft is timed with the arrow at the 6 o'clock position. I took out the camshaft tool so that I could install the cams - rear cam when in fine with barely any coaxing, the front one has the issue. I have to remove the head to do head gasket so I may just try and put the front cam in at that time


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Sounds like a stuck valve then. If the head is coming off to do the Gasket, then you really should check the valve guides. :thumbup:


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

would a valve get stuck after sitting for a week? car was running fine before I tore it down to do chains (did chains only cause lower timing chain cover cracked where the oil pan bolts screw in


----------



## ericsond (Aug 25, 2011)

*wheel spacers question related to new wheels.*

I have a black 2004 R32 that I have had on the stock 18 inch Aristo wheels with H&R wheels spacers, 15mm on the front and 20mm on the back which I had professionally installed. All is great for years. 

Recently I went in to have my front right tire changed as it had bubbled and was slowly losing air. I was told my stock rim is bent. They looked at the rest of the wheels and determined the left front wheel was also bent. I have had to replace a stock rim before for the same reason and they are expensive. 

I decided to buy a full set of black Katana K15 rims they had in stock then and there. They told me it is a perfect fit. They installed the wheels and then informed me that they left out the spacers i had because the bore of the new rims are larger than the stock rims and the spacers are not going to be happy with them. 

Is there a way for me to add some sort of adapter that would let me use my spacers with the new rims?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

ericsond said:


> I have a black 2004 R32 that I have had on the stock 18 inch Aristo wheels with H&R wheels spacers, 15mm on the front and 20mm on the back which I had professionally installed. All is great for years.
> 
> Recently I went in to have my front right tire changed as it had bubbled and was slowly losing air. I was told my stock rim is bent. They looked at the rest of the wheels and determined the left front wheel was also bent. I have had to replace a stock rim before for the same reason and they are expensive.
> 
> ...


 Wrong forum


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

ericsond said:


> I have a black 2004 R32 that I have had on the stock 18 inch Aristo wheels with H&R wheels spacers, 15mm on the front and 20mm on the back which I had professionally installed. All is great for years.
> 
> Recently I went in to have my front right tire changed as it had bubbled and was slowly losing air. I was told my stock rim is bent. They looked at the rest of the wheels and determined the left front wheel was also bent. I have had to replace a stock rim before for the same reason and they are expensive.
> 
> ...


 :facepalm: 

Besides the wrong forum You have an R32 and are allowing a Discount Tire Shop to Sell you Cheap Shi+ Wheels that aren't even the same canter bore? Dude, repair the stock wheels, and sell the car to an owner that wont crap it up.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

valet said:


> would a valve get stuck after sitting for a week? car was running fine before I tore it down to do chains (did chains only cause lower timing chain cover cracked where the oil pan bolts screw in


 Either that or an out of round lifter. Did you prime the lifters before install?


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

How does one properly prime the lifters? I had em in oil overnight and then I pressed the inside of the lifters for a while


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

valet said:


> How does one properly prime the lifters? I had em in oil overnight and then I pressed the inside of the lifters for a while


 Generally leave them in oil upside down over night and press inside portion of the lifter a few times to get air bubbles out and oil in.


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

TheBurninator said:


> Generally leave them in oil upside down over night and press inside portion of the lifter a few times to get air bubbles out and oil in.


 Should I bleed em in oil? I pressed on the inside after taking them out of the oil (the sat upside down, submerged, for 24 hrs.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

valet said:


> Should I bleed em in oil? I pressed on the inside after taking them out of the oil (the sat upside down, submerged, for 24 hrs.


 Leave them in the oil when you are pressing down on them trying to get the air out.


----------



## 610corrado (Jul 29, 2011)

*need major help*

first off. how can i make that money?!?! second. i recently got a rado from a good friend. its in terrible shape. i have no clue where to start. all i kno is... i want bbs, lowered, good paint job, and either a turbo or a better super charger, im also a begginer to vortex so if anyone is willing to help me out, usually a pm would be better, i dont like to read and check into every single response on a thread..


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

610corrado said:


> first off. how can i make that money?!?! second. i recently got a rado from a good friend. its in terrible shape. i have no clue where to start. all i kno is... i want bbs, lowered, good paint job, and either a turbo or a better super charger, im also a begginer to vortex so if anyone is willing to help me out, usually a pm would be better, i dont like to read and check into every single response on a thread..


 ^^ :facepalm: 

Start with one thing at a time....depending on the route you want to take your Corrado, you can start with either the engine work or the bodywork side of things.


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

610corrado said:


> first off. how can i make that money?!?! second. i recently got a rado from a good friend. its in terrible shape. i have no clue where to start. all i kno is... i want bbs, lowered, good paint job, and either a turbo or a better super charger, im also a begginer to vortex so if anyone is willing to help me out, usually a pm would be better, i dont like to read and check into every single response on a thread..


 Wait... "You. don't. like. to. read." Seriously? :what: 

I'm all about helping people out, but that proves to me that you're lazy, and expect things to be spoonfed to you. Do yourself, and all of us a favor, and get rid of the Corrado now, because with that attitude you're going nowhere with it. 

Why did I even bother? You're not going to read this...


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

610corrado said:


> *first off. how can i make that money?!?!* second. i recently got a rado from a good friend. its in terrible shape. i have no clue where to start. all i kno is... i want bbs, lowered, good paint job, and either a turbo or a better super charger, im also a begginer to vortex so if anyone is willing to help me out, usually a pm would be better, i dont like to read and check into every single response on a thread..


 First: "You can whore yourself out to 1,000 Fat Chicks for $50.00. OR OR!!! 
50 REALLY fat chicks for $1,000 Bucks. 
Fat chicks need love too.......but they gotta pay." 







:laugh: 

Secondly: Hopes and Dreams of a Hooked up Corrado. Lots of Builds are Built on this. Mine included  

Fail to Plan? then Plan to Fail. Research Research Research. :thumbup:


----------



## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

So I bought a Corrado and it came with some brilliant "aftermarket" piping. Owner said these were hand made at VWMotorsport. Anyone can confirm? 
And for some reason the car has little power. I think It's missing something? 
PLEASE HELP ME ! ! !


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

NYCGTM said:


> So I bought a Corrado and it came with some brilliant "aftermarket" piping. Owner said these were hand made at VWMotorsport. Anyone can confirm?
> And for some reason the car has little power. I think It's missing something?
> PLEASE HELP ME ! ! !


 Excellent troll post sir :laugh:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

^^Clean engine/bay ....


----------



## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

TheBurninator said:


> Excellent troll post sir :laugh:


 I don't know why your making fun of my post  I guess all you Corr*A*do owners are *A* holes! 



RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^Clean engine/bay ....


 Thanks, this was after the power wash. I want the VR6 Engine to look good when I show it to people


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

NYCGTM said:


> I don't know why your making fun of my post  I guess all you Corr*A*do owners are *A* holes!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, this was after the power wash. I want the VR6 Engine to look good when I show it to people


 :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: 

Reminds me of this classic hilarious thread: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-is-so-bad-its-MAKING-ME-LAUGH.-NEED-EXPERTS! ----->had a great laugh yesterday :laugh:


----------



## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

That's an awesome find. lmk if you plan to sell that piping... I'll give you top dollar for it.. Seriously, get that dynoed. I'm sure you'll be up 60-100 hp, maybe more. 

gl 

:laugh: 



NYCGTM said:


> So I bought a Corrado and it came with some brilliant "aftermarket" piping. Owner said these were hand made at VWMotorsport. Anyone can confirm?
> And for some reason the car has little power. I think It's missing something?
> PLEASE HELP ME ! ! !


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

what's a good way to remove rust/mud slush from the coolant jacket? I got the head off and noticed some mud-like rust in the water jacket and want it removed before I put the motor back together


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Wheel question for the experts from me ....again  

Are the *CENTERS* of split wheels weldable/fixable?  

One of the centers on mine has a crack near the bolt/nut area, looks like it was caused by improper torque by the PO  
_I'll post some pics later tonight to show the damage_ 


Finding a replacement center (which would have been ideal) is impossible due to the rareness of the said wheels


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

so im getting ready to order my lugtronics wire in ecu for my 24v swap. on sale its 1075$...what other things will i need to order with it to get my corrado running? i plan on going turbo in the next year or 2. i know i need a wideband o2 sensor but do i need a gauge too if i can just datalog from the ecu?


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

90 g60, 16v swap running digi 1. 

Oil buzzer goes off typically only above 2200rpms. when the yellow wire is unplugged, the buzzer goes off constantly (normal). BUT when the yellow wire is grounded, it still only buzzes _sometimes_. Is this an indicator that it's my cluster and not my pressure gauge or oil pressure?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Wheel question for the experts from me ....again
> 
> Are the *CENTERS* of split wheels weldable/fixable?
> 
> ...


 http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...pc-splits-CENTER-part&p=73287447#post73287447 

Help...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...pc-splits-CENTER-part&p=73287447#post73287447
> 
> Help...


 I would have it brazed, not welded. But either way that looks bad... Are all of the centers like that?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> I would have it brazed, not welded. But either way that looks bad... Are all of the centers like that?


 Just one...


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

skaterhernandez4 said:


> 90 g60, 16v swap running digi 1.
> 
> Oil buzzer goes off typically only above 2200rpms. when the yellow wire is unplugged, the buzzer goes off constantly (normal). BUT when the yellow wire is grounded, it still only buzzes _sometimes_. Is this an indicator that it's my cluster and not my pressure gauge or oil pressure?


 Check Oil Pressure VIA Gauge First. Otherwise you will be screwed. If pressures are OK, then obviously not a mechanical oil pressure issue and the Cluster or Sensor could be at fault.


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

I am going to be removing the engine harness and all other wiring that goes into the bay for some painting on my slc project. Is it necessarry to remove the dash to remove this wiring? Or can it all be accessed at the fuse block? TIA


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

1broknrado said:


> so im getting ready to order my lugtronics wire in ecu for my 24v swap. on sale its 1075$...what other things will i need to order with it to get my corrado running? i plan on going turbo in the next year or 2. i know i need a wideband o2 sensor but do i need a gauge too if i can just datalog from the ecu?


 Did you talk to Kevin about all this? I just got my ecu from lugtronic the other day and he answered all these same questions for me. Just shoot him an email. He had me just order the wideband sensor. This is straight from and email from Kevin.. 

*You do not need the wideband gauge for the car to run. 

I strongly recommend the Wideband Sensor ($90.00 - under "ECU Accessories") - this will allow the critical AFR information to be data logged and displayed in the software. 
This will help me help you get the fine tuning done as easily and quickly as possible*


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

looks like I have a chip on the bigger of the two intermediate sprokets... where can I get a new one?


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

Yes that's what he told me too. Joe long did it Take to receive the ecu? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

1broknrado said:


> Yes that's what he told me too. Joe long did it Take to receive the ecu?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 I assume thats how long did it take:laugh: It took a about three weeks from the time I sent the money to the day I got it.


----------



## Hemingway'sToe (Feb 13, 2009)

*New Problem*

Ran into a new issue! :banghead: I've just noticed this because before I would let the car cool completely before starting her again. (newly rebuilt 16V G60 for those who don't know) When the car is fully warmed up, and I go to restart her it's very hard to start. If feels like the starter is pushing on a brick wall, finally the wall gives a bit and vroom.... 

I'm thinking a bad battery or starter? I know it's harder to start warm cars, but if it were a timing/fuel/spark problem the engine would at least crank over right? 

What about vapor lock? Again I would expect the starter to push the engine around, but the fuel vapor just gets compressed in the line so no ignition?


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Hemingway'sToe said:


> Ran into a new issue! :banghead: I've just noticed this because before I would let the car cool completely before starting her again. (newly rebuilt 16V G60 for those who don't know) When the car is fully warmed up, and I go to restart her it's very hard to start. If feels like the starter is pushing on a brick wall, finally the wall gives a bit and vroom....
> 
> I'm thinking a bad battery or starter? I know it's harder to start warm cars, but if it were a timing/fuel/spark problem the engine would at least crank over right?
> 
> What about vapor lock? Again I would expect the starter to push the engine around, but the fuel vapor just gets compressed in the line so no ignition?


 if its nto cranking at all, then id say starter. but if its cranking but not moving the motor, maybe to tight of ring clearance after warmin up? but ya kinda sounds like a starter issue, although only when warm seems fishy.


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## Hemingway'sToe (Feb 13, 2009)

jettalvr41 said:


> if its nto cranking at all, then id say starter. but if its cranking but not moving the motor, maybe to tight of ring clearance after warmin up? but ya kinda sounds like a starter issue, although only when warm seems fishy.


 It eventually cranks over, just not easily. I'm going to measure my voltage, maybe I need a new voltage regulator. Too tight of ring clearance would be bad, seeing as it it's a new install. I'd expect rings not to be fully seated yet. I guess I can get her warmed up and check the compression (though I'd need the starter to turn to do that...)


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## mattrip (Sep 5, 2005)

When installing ARP connecting rod bolts in stock G60 connecting rods. Can anyone confirm my question below or offer some advise. I am getting conflicting information from the two "leading" G60 parts suppliers. ARP instructions on their website do not call for re-drilling or machining. 

Is any machining or drilling needed on the rod to accept the ARP hardware?


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> I assume thats how long did it take:laugh: It took a about three weeks from the time I sent the money to the day I got it.


haha yea stupid auto correct on my phone


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## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Ok here is a broad question for the group.

Things that would make a VR feel a bit sluggish.....?

Neuspeed PChip currently running on 0 EtOH 91 Octane. Traditionally I use 93 octane with EtOH.

Recent changes to the engine:

Cleaned the ISV with MAF cleaner, reconnected.
Replaced old braided vacuum hosing with new Rubber stuff. Had to use smaller hose on the FPR tube.
New Air Filter on my P-flo
Seafoamed the intake, gas & oil.

It is NOT a misfire. Injectors are clean and all cyl are firing.

My thoughts of things to replace:
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Blue temp sensor.
Change oil
get 93 Octane back in the tank.


Other thoughts?

thx


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## Kumba1 (Feb 19, 2011)

Thank you for answering my post a while back.


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## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

jiffyjetta said:


> I have a 80 rabbit. It was sitting for a long time and I just did an ABA swap. I have a fuel leak from the tank area when over 3/4. This is my first mk1 and was wondering of any common things to check.


Corrados don't have ABAs. Wrong thread my friend. Try the Mk1 thread, then try and find the leak and patch it with plastic weld epoxy.


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## cstanley19 (Sep 23, 2006)

At what point did the car start to feel sluggish? After the ISV clean.. The EGR needs to be cleaned as well. That could have more of an impact too.. If you think about it, it's the system that regulates how much exhaust to let into the atmosphere. Or check your plugs, wires cap and rotor. I'm sure you have done so already but if not, my car ran like sH!t until I put new plugs in it when I first got it.


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## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

cstanley19 said:


> At what point did the car start to feel sluggish? After the ISV clean.. The EGR needs to be cleaned as well. That could have more of an impact too.. If you think about it, it's the system that regulates how much exhaust to let into the atmosphere. Or check your plugs, wires cap and rotor. I'm sure you have done so already but if not, my car ran like sH!t until I put new plugs in it when I first got it.


plugs are 10k old. Wires have 5k on them. Cap..... IDK. I'll check the ISV. However I'm thinking I need to keep a few extra Blue temp sensors in the glove box... Those go bad.

Next step. Cleaning TB, MAF, SAI.


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

Will 17x7.5 et44.45 with 1.5 inch adapters fit on a G60? I am terrible with offsets and stuff.


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## yip (Jul 14, 2003)

turtledub said:


> Will 17x7.5 et44.45 with 1.5 inch adapters fit on a G60? I am terrible with offsets and stuff.


Yes, should be pretty close to flush with the fender.


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

turtledub said:


> Will 17x7.5 et44.45 with 1.5 inch adapters fit on a G60? I am terrible with offsets and stuff.





yip said:


> Yes, should be pretty close to flush with the fender.


I just checked and Motorsport can make the adapters a little smaller

Type: Two Piece Adapter
Hub Centric to Car & Wheel Centric to Wheel 
Number of Studs: 5
Thickness: 35mm
Stud Size: 1/2x20
Center Bore: 71.5mm
Diameter: 5 by 127 (5 inches)

So the wheels should be tucked in a tad if I go with the above adapter. Now someone needs to buy my passat steelies.


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

Can someone please tell me if these are g60 turn signals... Hope you can tell as this is the only pic of them...


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

krazy4dubz said:


> Can someone please tell me if these are g60 turn signals... Hope you can tell as this is the only pic of them...


They look like G60 turns. Someone else needs to chime in though.


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## clintg60-16v (Dec 13, 2002)

Those are G60-spec turn signals, turtledub.


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

clintg60-16v said:


> Those are G60-spec turn signals, turtledub.


Thanks you guys.  :thumbup:


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## vw_luck1990 (Sep 3, 2011)

*corrado*

so i got a 1990 corrado g60 1.8 supercharged and thenumber 15 fuse on the fuse block keeps blowing the fuse, need help thanks...


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## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

I need 30 bolt BBS RS barrels please! I know someone in this place knows something! 
LOL, yes they are for BBS RS 003's 

And something to make the perv's look at my post. What's your favorite cheese Kyle? I'll make and bring some to H2O for ya.


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## CTCORRADOKID (Sep 24, 2003)

Not trying to annoy anyone...but just in case some of the more knowledgeable folks only check this thread...:thumbup:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5396705-Leaks-and-a-couple-other-questions..and-PICS!


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

NYCGTM said:


> I need 30 bolt BBS RS barrels please! I know someone in this place knows something!
> LOL, yes they are for BBS RS 003's ...


^^16'' right?

You're looking for used or new? 

Mine are 16'' 30 bolt as well (but not BBS) and I ordered mine from www.imagewheels.co.uk if that helps....120gbp each for 5,5'' wide. 

I also bought recently (and received today) a used *2,5''* 16'' 30-hole outer lip for a crazy price of..................... *$17* !!!!  :screwy:.....  
I love scores like these :laugh:


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## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^16'' right?
> 
> You're looking for used or new?
> 
> ...


Wow, lucky Bastid! And yes 16's. Thanks! I'll check them out and see what's up.


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

i got one for you pros

vibration while off throttle in gear only... in neutral its still present but very very faint.

brand new axles, new control arm bushings, new bearings, brand new balanced tires.

no vibration while accelerating...

any ideas??

car in question


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

It is me trying to steal your wheels whilst you drive.


----------



## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

*Boneing Time*

Sup fella's. I tried to shed some light, helped a little, but please help out a local. Only need a couple of you masters to give a few sentences of knowledge and lead this your Rado Jedi to the 12v side. Errr I meant the right path 

Make it simple, he is trying to replace strips in a g60, but debating a VR swap.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-in-the-area&p=73448593&posted=1#post73448593


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

I need some help on finding a pic/p.n of the cirr clip that gos on the g60driver side and pass side cv axels in put flag if that's what its call oh and all so the seal thanks alot guys


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

NYCGTM said:


> I need 30 bolt BBS RS barrels please! I know someone in this place knows something!
> LOL, yes they are for BBS RS 003's


Good luck. The 30 Hole Corvette RS's are special. Using a Center commonly used on 15" RS's and a 1 off (model number only) Style 30 Hole Lip and Barrel. 

In other words, Custom wheel manufacturers only. 

Check with Rotiform.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

eurobred said:


> i got one for you pros
> 
> vibration while off throttle in gear only... in neutral its still present but very very faint.
> 
> ...


Differential bearings or diff itself.


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

DUBZAK said:


> Differential bearings or diff itself.


oh damn.... alright.. :facepalm:


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

just finished timing chains and head gasket job (HG was changed because hg tore when I removed the timing chain covers)

installed and did:



autotech 262 cams with new lifters
mk4 HG (with new head bolts of course)
new water pump
new rad switch 
flushed the old coolant out until water came out clear - then put in new coolant and dist. water (2l of coolant to almost a gallon of distilled)
replaced oil pan, gasket, and new oil pump
had old injectors cleaned/serviced
new stock plugs
replaced clutch


after all that was done, I noticed that I am seeing hotter oil and coolant temps. my one-way commute to work is 35 miles

today with ambient temp at 110+, my highest oil temp was 248-250 and coolant was ~212. this was cruising at 75-80 mph @ 3500 rpm

a few weeks ago (before all the work) I was seeing (at ambient of ~98-101) 220 oil and 195 coolant at same speeds (incidentally enough, on my drive home last night, the above numbers 220/195 were what I had for oil and coolant at an ambient of 64f

edit: oil is mobile 1 10w40 and has 3 commutes on it ~100 miles


----------



## FlatlanderSJ (Oct 4, 2007)

anyone know where the blue and blue/brown wires go in this pic? Mine are cut in my car and trying to figure out where they went.


----------



## Colb.45 (Jan 22, 2009)

replacing a steering rack in a corrado, i have found how to do a g60 is it pretty much the same steps?

im pretty sure i know what im doing but any pointers would be swell


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

krazy4dubz said:


> Can someone please tell me if these are g60 turn signals... Hope you can tell as this is the only pic of them...


I ended up winning these on eBay yesterday.  :heart: Thanks for your help guys. :thumbup: :beer:


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

I ordered prothane control arm bushings for my SLC project. I have read some mixed reviews about the rear control arm bushing being harsh and not recommended. My questions is.... If I plan on making big power would it be better to use these bushings? Or should I go with the TT bushings?
I am thinking that the poly bushing would be ideal to minimize flexing under extreme load. TIA


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Differential bearings or diff itself.





eurobred said:


> oh damn.... alright.. :facepalm:


This is just an "Over the interwebz Best Guess"

Change the trans fluid and see what happens. It's your only hope Obiwan Kenobi.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> I ordered prothane control arm bushings for my SLC project. I have read some mixed reviews about the rear control arm bushing being harsh and not recommended. My questions is.... If I plan on making big power would it be better to use these bushings? Or should I go with the TT bushings?
> I am thinking that the poly bushing would be ideal to minimize flexing under extreme load. TIA


Use the HD TT/R32 bushing in the rear of the control arm and poly in the front.

The poly bushing for the rear isn't recommended due to them binding and not working as well as rubber does in that situation. :thumbup:


----------



## SLC4EVER (Oct 7, 1999)

Another option for you might be a total a-arm swap. 

I am swapping to a R32 a-arm for the beefier ball joints and bushings. Can't say if it is worth it yet though. The front bushings are eccentric which would be good for a lot of forward load on the a-arm. Something to think about.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

SLC4EVER said:


> Another option for you might be a total a-arm swap.
> 
> I am swapping to a R32 a-arm for the beefier ball joints and bushings. Can't say if it is worth it yet though. The front bushings are eccentric which would be good for a lot of forward load on the a-arm. Something to think about.


How do they line up in comparison to normal plus suspension arms?


----------



## SLC4EVER (Oct 7, 1999)

They are an exact match. You just have to grind the nib on the inside of the drivers side front bushing carrier as it doesn't fit in the k-frame.

They also have a good amount of caster angle in the ball joint attachment point. I'm no suspension expert, but I can only assume this is good for handling. Should be a little heavier steering feel as well. Of course this is my own speculation, but I'll give it a go.

Oh yeah, you also need an attachment point for the sway bar link as the R32 uses the strut housing. I'll post a pic of what I designed in the 30Kay thread.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

SLC4EVER said:


> They are an exact match. You just have to grind the nib on the inside of the drivers side front bushing carrier as it doesn't fit in the k-frame.
> 
> They also have a good amount of caster angle in the ball joint attachment point. I'm no suspension expert, but I can only assume this is good for handling. Should be a little heavier steering feel as well. Of course this is my own speculation, but I'll give it a go.
> 
> Oh yeah, you also need an attachment point for the sway bar link as the R32 uses the strut housing. I'll post a pic of what I designed in the 30Kay thread.


So the ball joint attachment point is moved forward? I always figured mk4's moved the strut tower further back in relation to the ball joint to get the extra caster. It would be cool to have more caster 

Also interesting design idea. I think I would take a much simpler approach and just grab the welder


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

This isn't a corrado question per se, but I trust your judgment:

Had some bad noise on my fiancee's Jetta (AFP 12v vr6), and the PO said it was the lifters. Started taking everything apart and saw that the upper guide rail was split in half and that one of the bolts had been torqued so hard that it broke the bolt hole on the rail. I just did the timing chains on my Corrado (finished last week in fact ) so the process is still fresh in my mind.

Ordinarily, I would just slap a new upper guide rail on it and call it a day, but whoever did the timing chains last on that car did a bad job (every bolt was over torqued - including the tensioning bolt, guide rail bolts and cam bolt), and I'm wondering if I should just do another timing chain job. Upper guide rail, the part that broke, has some grooves in the plastic (fairly deep), and the tensioning rail has some extremely faint grooves in it (but I cannot feel them with my finger nail). I couldn't see any signs of wear on the chains, or on the lower end.

So question = *slap on new upper guide rail and tensioner bolt*, OR *timing chains*

:beer:


----------



## SLC4EVER (Oct 7, 1999)

TheBurninator said:


> So the ball joint attachment point is moved forward? I always figured mk4's moved the strut tower further back in relation to the ball joint to get the extra caster. It would be cool to have more caster
> 
> Also interesting design idea. I think I would take a much simpler approach and just grab the welder


The attachment point is in the same location, but the plane on which the ball joint is mounted is angled back. The a-arm twists backwards. If I had to guess, it's at least 6 degrees. 

:laugh: I was originally going to go the welder route, but it concerned me that I might change the mechanical characteristics of the cast metal...right at the ball joint. That scurred me.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

valet said:


> This isn't a corrado question per se, but I trust your judgment:
> 
> Had some bad noise on my fiancee's Jetta (AFP 12v vr6), and the PO said it was the lifters. Started taking everything apart and saw that the upper guide rail was split in half and that one of the bolts had been torqued so hard that it broke the bolt hole on the rail. I just did the timing chains on my Corrado (finished last week in fact ) so the process is still fresh in my mind.
> 
> ...


You have it all apart right? Might as well just do it all. At least then you know it is done right.


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

I just hope that this time, the job goes faster :beer:


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Use the HD TT/R32 bushing in the rear of the control arm and poly in the front.
> 
> The poly bushing for the rear isn't recommended due to them binding and not working as well as rubber does in that situation. :thumbup:


Thank you. R32 rear control arm bushings ordered. So what about the sway bar... I am keeping the stock sway bar and I am curious about the end links and bushings. Do you guru's recommend poly? or oem? I did a lengthy search but I dont see any useful info on this subject.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Anything polyurethan related is good for the track, not so much for a road car despite if high hp one or not ....just my 0,02


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Anything polyurethan related is good for the track, not so much for a road car despite if high hp one or not ....just my 0,02


I run full poly in the mk1... never had any issues on the street even dailying it.

Honestly it isn't that much harsher than stock rubber.

For the sway bar stuff if you can find the bushings in poly for a vr6 then go for it. Maybe you can make the g60 ones fit but the endlinks are solid anyways...


----------



## SLC4EVER (Oct 7, 1999)

TheBurninator said:


> Honestly it isn't that much harsher than stock rubber.


I tend to agree as long as it's not the red translucent crap, aside from being a PITA to install. Powerflex urethane is all I use. Highly recommended.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

SLC4EVER said:


> I tend to agree as long as it's not the red translucent crap, aside from being a PITA to install. Powerflex urethane is all I use. Highly recommended.


As long as you research which bushings are good to have in poly... I.E. not the rear control arm bushing or rearm beam bushing then they are fine.

For the rear beam you can use the inserts and still retain the "bearing effect" that the rubber bushing has to it. :thumbup: Just no full poly bushing.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

eurobred said:


> i got one for you pros
> 
> vibration while off throttle in gear only... in neutral its still present but very very faint.
> 
> ...


Road force balance the wheels. Sometimes it's just the tires that contribute to the ride. I went through the same issue with my Audi. Did it do this when the tires were new?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

petethepug said:


> Road force balance the wheels. Sometimes it's just the tires that contribute to the ride. I went through the same issue with my Audi. Did it do this when the tires were new?


If it was tires it would vibrate/shake while accelerating too.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Stupid question but could someone explain me how the hell do you remove the *upper* stering column cover (clam shell). 

_I can see the 8mm socket bolt holding the steering tilt lever but even unbolting it doesn't seem to remove the clam shell (the lever doesn't come off so it doesn't fit into the hole) _


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Stupid question but could someone explain me how the hell do you remove the *upper* stering column cover (clam shell).
> 
> _I can see the 8mm socket bolt holding the steering tilt lever but even unbolting it doesn't seem to remove the clam shell (the lever doesn't come off so it doesn't fit into the hole) _


Have to pull the lower first then remove the bolt holding the steering tilt level. From there it will take some wiggling to get it off. (Thats what she said)

Make sure the tilt is set all the way down when you do this. Also you may need to pull the steering wheel.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Have to pull the lower first then remove the bolt holding the steering tilt level. From there it will take some wiggling to get it off. (Thats what she said)
> 
> Make sure the tilt is set all the way down when you do this. Also you may need to pull the steering wheel.


Thanks :beer:

I have removed the lower cover (didn't mention that because I thought it was obvious )
So I'm not losing my mind-removing the tilt lever bolt does not removes the actual lever itself...

Gonna go and give it a try again...


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Thanks :beer:
> 
> I have removed the lower cover (didn't mention that because I thought it was obvious )
> So I'm not losing my mind-removing the tilt lever bolt does not removes the actual lever itself...
> ...


Yes and no... there is a pin holding it in too. Wiggle it up a bit and it should pop out. then slide it through the clam shell.


----------



## konaunit1 (Nov 26, 2009)

*Noob (sort of) question*

Ok, so I have a 1990 corrado with 85,7xx miles (yes really). I tried to go through this thread before asking questions but I only have so much time.

I just wondering if there is anything at this milage point I NEED to change. IE the pulley belt, timing belt, all fluids. or anything else?

I have had this car for almost 10 years but due to a forced move the car has sat in a heated, dry basement for the past 6. The car itself has a borl full exhaust and eibach springs on stock struts. My goal is to get the car mechanically sound before even thinking about more power. 

My mechanical skill are strong and I have some good VW people in the area to help out when it becomes over my head. I have lots of questions but those are small things compared to making sure the car itself stays running as well as it does!

Thanks 
Rich


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## V-TEC this!!! (May 4, 2003)

I would change all the fluids, plugs, wires, belts. Just do a tune up and make sure the charger is 100% sound before attempting to drive it daily. For sure change the little belt on the charger, it is most likely very brittle at this point.


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

Can someone tell me the part number for the bolt that goes where the arrow is? Thanks


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

^ n 102 575 01


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## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

Thank you :beer:


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Yes and no... there is a pin holding it in too. Wiggle it up a bit and it should pop out. then slide it through the clam shell.





TheBurninator said:


> Have to pull the lower first then remove the bolt holding the steering tilt level. From there it will take some wiggling to get it off. (Thats what she said)
> 
> Make sure the tilt is set all the way down when you do this. Also you may need to pull the steering wheel.


Sorted and thanks :thumbup: :beer:


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

Anyone know where I can buy a new adjustment tool for koni coils? I can't seem to find them anywhere and I want to get these coils installed.


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

chrisd1891 said:


> Anyone know where I can buy a new adjustment tool for koni coils? I can't seem to find them anywhere and I want to get these coils installed.


 I got my set of coil over wrenches from summit racing. If you mean the damping adjustment knobs, you'll probably have to contact Koni.


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

NoCYet said:


> I got my set of coil over wrenches from summit racing. If you mean the damping adjustment knobs, you'll probably have to contact Koni.



Awesome, thanks. Found it on there and ordered it. :beer:


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

Photo Request: Has anybody seen this wheel in a C??? I kinda like it but I'd like to see one in a Corrado interior to say forsure. Thanks in advance...  :thumbup:


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Got a problem and not quite sure what the issue is. Im thinking it may be a fuel pump issue. 
When I start the car if I dont idle the car for a few minutes it'll bog down and want to stall out. I can either idle for a few minutes or give it gas for about 30 seconds to about 3K.

Once the car is going its no longer an issue. I can go WOT from then on at any point at any speed and there is no problem. its just when starting the car. 
Id think if it was a fuel pump itd be more noticable when the car was at high revs and needed to pull more fuel.

I thought maybe a clogged fuel filter, but I changed that and there is no change in the behavior of the car.


----------



## JonD91 (Aug 18, 2011)

just wondering, will headers from a '97 MK3 2.0 Jetta bolt up to a 1991 Corrado G60? Ive read that they will just wondering if anyone else had done this


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

JonD91 said:


> just wondering, will headers from a '97 MK3 2.0 Jetta bolt up to a 1991 Corrado G60? Ive read that they will just wondering if anyone else had done this


Should bolt right up. Flange at the cat might be a bit different though.


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## JonD91 (Aug 18, 2011)

thats alright, Im getting a universal hi-flow cat and running a Techtonics Tuning catback from there. just wanted to make sure the headers would work, getting them for free so before I dig in I want to make sure ts gonna fit haha


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

If my transmission mount is bad would that cause my dash to vibrate really bad?? When I bought the car there was a brand new tranny mount laying in the back of the car so I'm assuming it's bad but I thought I'd ask. It vibrates really bad when taking off but not really when it's just idling. Anybody have this problem....


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

anna1985beatufy said:


> what is the different between frogs and hid/？？？:snowcool:


Epic first post. :laugh: :thumbup: opcorn:

Pg. 164 :thumbup:


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## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

*g60 diff info*

So the other day chad (sr.karmann) we were putting my new cv axles on amongst other things so as we where putting on the axels the the d.s held the output flange but the p.s couldn't what happens now


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

Anyone know where I can find a new boot for the steering knuckle? the one that goes from the firewall to the rack. I ordered this from 1stvwparts.com and they emailed me back saying it is obselete, and my local dealer told me the same thing. I prefer to buy this new for my build. TIA


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

^^Hmm, can't seem to locate it either...GAP doesn't list it either


I know from personal experience that the RHD MK1 ones are obsolete for some time now :banghead:


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## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

G60Ron said:


> So the other day chad (sr.karmann) we were putting my new cv axles on amongst other things so as we where putting on the axels the the d.s held the output flange but the p.s couldn't what happens now


I need help with this guys havent found. To much I for about this


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

G60Ron said:


> I need help with this guys havent found. To much I for about this


Well your first problem is you have Chad helping you :wave::wave:

Anyways were the clips on the output flanges new? They are a one time use item. Any damage that you can see where they clip into the diff?


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^Hmm, can't seem to locate it either...GAP doesn't list it either
> 
> 
> I know from personal experience that the RHD MK1 ones are obsolete for some time now :banghead:


Yes I have been searching for a while now and its the last item i need to call the sub frame assembly complete and ready for installation. Mine has a tear in it and I am sure any used piece i find will be dry rotted and not worth installing. Does anyone know if there is one that would match up from a newer car that would be more readily available? There has to be some kind of solution. It looks like the mk3 gti has the same boot but i dont know if its even still available.


----------



## rol707272 (Sep 13, 2011)

i broke my key inhalf what should i do


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

rol707272 said:


> i broke my key inhalf what should i do


use your spare and probably get another made.


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

rol707272 said:


> i broke my key inhalf what should i do





TheBurninator said:


> use your spare and probably get another made.


best answer on this thread I've ever seen.


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Quick ques. Will the heat/ac vents from a newer corrado fit in a older corrado (1990)









They look better and the fins arent as flimsy from the looks of it. :beer:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

g60301 said:


> Quick ques. Will the heat/ac vents from a newer corrado fit in a older corrado (1990)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes and no... yes the whole vent assemblies fit but not just the vent itself. With that you would be changing the whole center of the dash.


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

^^ gotcha. :thumbup:


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> Anyone know where I can find a new boot for the steering knuckle? the one that goes from the firewall to the rack. I ordered this from 1stvwparts.com and they emailed me back saying it is obselete, and my local dealer told me the same thing. I prefer to buy this new for my build. TIA


 I thought this was true. I always grab all the boots I can find whenever I'm at the junk yard.

My answer: Junkyard find.


----------



## erickramirez (Aug 2, 2008)

OK EXPERTS i just got a radiator cover (the one with the stickers) for my g60 but it came with no hardware. i know where everything goes but what are the proper bolts/nuts im supposed to use to connect? size etc. thanks


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

erickramirez said:


> OK EXPERTS i just got a radiator cover (the one with the stickers) for my g60 but it came with no hardware. i know where everything goes but what are the proper bolts/nuts im supposed to use to connect? size etc. thanks


I'm going to guess that you didn't have one prior.
Best thing to do would be to either find another corrado owner in your area and borrow his and go to the hardware store. OR go to the hardware store and buy a bag full of the small standard pitch screws and try and find the right ones.


----------



## erickramirez (Aug 2, 2008)

got it thanks!


----------



## bagelpsychic (Oct 1, 2011)

*'90 cabby crank-no-start*

hey, I removed ps pump, routed belt from alt to water pump, and drove 20 feet, car died. Now I have crank no start, fuel pressure is good, spark is good, add starter spray and fires up, only 1 sec, so injectors not firing. There was an electrical connector onto PS pump that I removed (ground I think) all wiring to Digifant II checks ok, but injectors not grounding! 1990 cabby conv, std. 16v i 4, digifant II. Please help!


----------



## pursuit99 (Apr 3, 2009)

I'm going to be doing an ABS to non ABS swap in my Corrado. What I'm wondering is if there are any cars that I can get a larger master cylinder and/or booster from? If I could get a 24-25mm master with a larger booster to match, that would be great


----------



## octo7076 (May 4, 2010)

*Oil weight for my '90 G60?*

I have a 90 G60 it has 160k miles on it. Wondering what the best weight for oil would be to use? I've also noticed that my oil pressure is running a little low once engine is fully warmed up 

Thanks 
Dan


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

pursuit99 said:


> I'm going to be doing an ABS to non ABS swap in my Corrado. What I'm wondering is if there are any cars that I can get a larger master cylinder and/or booster from? If I could get a 24-25mm master with a larger booster to match, that would be great


 No larger booster and no reason for one really. 25mm audi mc fits the car. But unless you have a reason for it dont bother.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

octo7076 said:


> I have a 90 G60 it has 160k miles on it. Wondering what the best weight for oil would be to use? I've also noticed that my oil pressure is running a little low once engine is fully warmed up
> 
> Thanks
> Dan


 Depends on climate and time of year but during summer 20-w50

You probably need an oil pump.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

bagelpsychic said:


> hey, I removed ps pump, routed belt from alt to water pump, and drove 20 feet, car died. Now I have crank no start, fuel pressure is good, spark is good, add starter spray and fires up, only 1 sec, so injectors not firing. There was an electrical connector onto PS pump that I removed (ground I think) all wiring to Digifant II checks ok, but injectors not grounding! 1990 cabby conv, std. 16v i 4, digifant II. Please help!


 This is the Corrado forum.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

octo7076 said:


> I have a 90 G60 it has 160k miles on it. Wondering what the best weight for oil would be to use? Thanks
> Dan


 I would recommend 10W-40 for G60s...


----------



## jteng08 (Aug 25, 2011)

Does anyone know if BBM is still selling the Lysholm Supercharger for the Corrado? Cause I was looking on their website about it and when I clicked on the price link, it took me to a blank page. :what: Just wondering if maybe they decided to stop selling it or if they stopped production. Thanks.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jteng08 said:


> Does anyone know if BBM is still selling the Lysholm Supercharger for the Corrado? Cause I was looking on their website about it and when I clicked on the price link, it took me to a blank page. :what: Just wondering if maybe they decided to stop selling it or if they stopped production. Thanks.


 Try calling them or emailing them...


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

Are the dry-rotted, crumbling foam pads on the underside of my G60's hood really necessary? 

In other words, if I take them off, what if anything should I put in their place?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

pej said:


> Are the dry-rotted, crumbling foam pads on the underside of my G60's hood really necessary?
> 
> In other words, if I take them off, what if anything should I put in their place?


 You can put dynamat hoodliner in place of that stuff. It is just for sound deadening.


----------



## Greisel TDI (Jan 26, 2011)

*Corrado rear wing repair*

I recently bought a rear corrado wing to install on my 1998 jetta GLX. So far it has been going great. noticed some slop in one side so i dissassembled the wing to get a bettera look and found that one of the cables had broken. wondering if any one knows if there is any place in the whole world that i could buy new cables for this wing. if no one sells them i would be interested to know if anyone out there can make them. Please help, i have searched the internet over and found nothing. i am hoping that all you carrado fans will be able to help with this issue. Thanks.


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

Greisel TDI said:


> I recently bought a rear corrado wing to install on my 1998 jetta GLX. So far it has been going great. noticed some slop in one side so i dissassembled the wing to get a bettera look and found that one of the cables had broken. wondering if any one knows if there is any place in the whole world that i could buy new cables for this wing. if no one sells them i would be interested to know if anyone out there can make them. Please help, i have searched the internet over and found nothing. i am hoping that all you carrado fans will be able to help with this issue. Thanks.


 You're better off buying another wing assembly, and using yours for parts. You can probably pick one up for $150 or so.


----------



## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

Can someone explain how the left(DS) popper is released when the hood latch cable is pulled? I ordered a used cable and I believe something is missing. The PO was using hood pins so I have nothing to go on. As it is now I have the horn shaped piece that pulls the Right(PS) popper, then the cable runs through the left popper but there does not seem to be much movement.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

02GTIFREESKIER said:


> Can someone explain how the left(DS) popper is released when the hood latch cable is pulled? I ordered a used cable and I believe something is missing. The PO was using hood pins so I have nothing to go on. As it is now I have the horn shaped piece that pulls the Right(PS) popper, then the cable runs through the left popper but there does not seem to be much movement.


 Used cable? = FAIL!!!!! 

The used Cable is probably stretched, and the Bentley shows the proper lineup of the trumpets and the metal trumpet with the set screw is how tension is set. Good luck but lots of guys have made their own cable using bicycle brake line. :thumbup:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Got a question too: 

Did *93+* us-spec Corrados come with amber turns like the early-spec us Corrados did???


----------



## yosa12 (Oct 4, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Got a question too:
> 
> Did *93+* us-spec Corrados come with amber turns like the early-spec us Corrados did???


 Yes. The 93+'s (us spec) have clear lens with an amber bulb.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

yosa12 said:


> Yes. The 93+'s (us spec) have clear lens with an amber bulb.


 ^^No, I'm talking about the lens itself... 

I know early-spec came with amber lens, but I don't believe 93+ had amber...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Got a question too:
> 
> Did *93+* us-spec Corrados come with amber turns like the early-spec us Corrados did???


 Clear turns. Trying to do a US spec g60 thing but with late style turns?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Clear turns. Trying to do a US spec g60 thing but with late style turns?


 :sly: Damn you're good :thumbup:  


Thanks for the clarification :beer:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> :sly: Damn you're good :thumbup:
> 
> 
> Thanks for the clarification :beer:


 Sending you a PM right now


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Sending you a PM right now


 Got it, thanks :thumbup: :beer:


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

*Fuel line killing me*

Question about a fuel line fitting. I'm trying to convert the hard plastic fuel line near the strut tower on a g60 to a An fitting. The plastic line has two flares(bumps) near the end with a sleeve inside. Do I just cut the first flare off in order to slide the earl's an adapter fitting onto the end? Any advise on what to cut it with. thanks Sean


----------



## Speck251 (Sep 8, 2011)

*Vw facebook Like JOIN JOIN JOIN*http://www.facebook.com/pages/Vw-photography/150566708367481


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Speck251 said:


> *Vw facebook Like JOIN JOIN JOIN*http://www.facebook.com/pages/Vw-photography/150566708367481


 GTFO. Quit spamming  and if I find any of my shots on your facebook page I am sending a cease and desist to you.


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

Sup got got in to a small accident not to long ago I need a lil help I just bought to new cv axles and my old ones where riped out of the tranny when i crashed flanges and all so as I'm putting the flanges in with new seals and clipps the p.s flang won't stay in like some thing is missing/broken idk but the driver side goes in when i hit it with a ruber mallet ..here's a picture of the car


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

G60Ron said:


> Sup got got in to a small accident not to long ago I need a lil help I just bought to new cv axles and my old ones where riped out of the tranny when i crashed flanges and all so as I'm putting the flanges in with new seals and clipps the p.s flang won't stay in like some thing is missing/broken idk but the driver side goes in when i hit it with a ruber mallet ..here's a picture of the car


 No wonder that flange wont stay in, dude......trans is probably fubard'. 


Did you try swapping the Axle Flanges to the other sides like I suggested a few posts ago?


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

cyberstasi said:


> Got a problem and not quite sure what the issue is. Im thinking it may be a fuel pump issue.
> When I start the car if I dont idle the car for a few minutes it'll bog down and want to stall out. I can either idle for a few minutes or give it gas for about 30 seconds to about 3K.
> 
> Once the car is going its no longer an issue. I can go WOT from then on at any point at any speed and there is no problem. its just when starting the car.
> ...


 anyone got an ideas?


----------



## Devster (May 26, 2011)

1990 Corrado 
- Currently swapping in an ABA from a 1994 Jetta 
- Bought a new clutch, pressure plate, lightweight flywheel, and bearings 

Problem: 
- The ABA swap is done and the 'rado drives incredibly smooth BUT... 
- It decides to idle at whatever it wants (600, 1000, or 1200 RPM) and changes when revved 

I know my way around cars, but I'm not super skilled. Raddodubbs and a few other friends have been helping with the swap and we are all stumped. 

Any ideas, comments, or suggestions would be incredibly helpful!


----------



## jteng08 (Aug 25, 2011)

TheBurninator said:


> Try calling them or emailing them...


 Thanks.


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> No wonder that flange wont stay in, dude......trans is probably fubard'.
> 
> 
> Did you try swapping the Axle Flanges to the other sides like I suggested a few posts ago?


 Yes I did and it still does the same thingwhat could be effed up


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

nu2dubbing said:


> Question about a fuel line fitting. I'm trying to convert the hard plastic fuel line near the strut tower on a g60 to a An fitting. The plastic line has two flares(bumps) near the end with a sleeve inside. Do I just cut the first flare off in order to slide the earl's an adapter fitting onto the end? Any advise on what to cut it with. thanks Sean


 Any ideas?


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

nu2dubbing said:


> Any ideas?


 So long as the line is sealed I think you'll be alright.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

G60Ron said:


> Yes I did and it still does the same thingwhat could be effed up


 The diff itself could be damaged, there are splines that mesh between axle flange and inside of the diff. If the wheel was turning when you were hit you may have toasted the diff.


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

TheLateJetta said:


> So long as the line is sealed I think you'll be alright.


 I can't get the fitting over the hose I'm thinking I need to cut off both humps and slide the inner sleeve back in.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Ideas on a "bracket" of some sort to secure/clip the wiring loom below the frame rails??? 

I'm thinking something like this: 









opcorn:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Ideas on a "bracket" of some sort to secure/clip the wiring loom below the frame rails???
> 
> I'm thinking something like this:
> 
> ...


 Either those or there are these pads that have a loop in them to put a ziptie through. The pads have more of a permant adheasive on them (think panel bond tape). Some of the mk1 guys use them


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> The diff itself could be damaged, there are splines that mesh between axle flange and inside of the diff. If the wheel was turning when you were hit you may have toasted the diff.


 OK thanks


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Either those or there are these pads that have a loop in them to put a ziptie through. The pads have more of a permant adheasive on them (think panel bond tape). Some of the mk1 guys use them


 Can you post some pics/info on those? 
I'd prefer to avoid any drilling on the body/frame rails if I can...opcorn:


----------



## pej (Nov 11, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> You can put dynamat hoodliner in place of that stuff. It is just for sound deadening.


 That's great news! I thought it had something to do with absorbing heat also but not so much, eh? 

BTW - does anyone know of or have some gray interior parts? I need the plastic trim that goes on the hatch, across the top inside. Classifieds have turned up squat. This thread's founder had told me a while back he had a bunch of them but I can't ever reach him on here.


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Can you post some pics/info on those?
> I'd prefer to avoid any drilling on the body/frame rails if I can...opcorn:


 They are made by 3m, google "tie wrap base" 

Part number is 06293


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

1956dub said:


> They are made by 3m, google "tie wrap base"
> 
> Part number is 06293


 ^^That's grreat - Really appreciate it :thumbup: :beer:


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Devster said:


> 1990 Corrado
> - Currently swapping in an ABA from a 1994 Jetta
> - Bought a new clutch, pressure plate, lightweight flywheel, and bearings
> 
> ...


 sounds to me like a mininal or intermitant vacuum leak. ya know, like a hose with a small hole in it and when you rev it opens or closes. easiest way to check is a smoke machine or propane around all the vacuum lines.


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

so i pulled the entire wiring out of my 1992 front to back, i noticed its all connected with little or no way of unconnecting it. anyone every split it up into sections? like for example... 

engine bay harness. 
drivers side cabin harness 
pass side cabin harness 
roof harness 
hatch harness 

? 
why would they make it all one connection front to back. it really is a pain when doing a full restore.


----------



## G0to60 (Jun 23, 2003)

I was wondering if anyone has found the cloth type electrical tape (or similar) that is used on the electrical harnesses? I've had to separate a couple harnesses in the past to find broken wires and have had to use the vinyl tape to bundle the wires back together. This works but doesn't really look the part.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

G0to60 said:


> I was wondering if anyone has found the cloth type electrical tape (or similar) that is used on the electrical harnesses? I've had to separate a couple harnesses in the past to find broken wires and have had to use the vinyl tape to bundle the wires back together. This works but doesn't really look the part.


Home depot sells it. Friction tape. You will find it right next to the rest of the electrical tape.

It is sticky on both sides like the stock stuff.


----------



## G0to60 (Jun 23, 2003)

Never even thought to look at a hardware store. I asked someone else and they said to use hockey tape that goes on the sticks. Hockey isn't really big here in Oregon so that fell short. Thanks for the tip. :thumbup:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

G0to60 said:


> Never even thought to look at a hardware store. I asked someone else and they said to use hockey tape that goes on the sticks. Hockey isn't really big here in Oregon so that fell short. Thanks for the tip. :thumbup:


Hockey tape is deff not the same and not fuel/fire resistant like friction tape.


----------



## Hemingway'sToe (Feb 13, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Hockey tape is deff not the same and not fuel/fire resistant like friction tape.


Friction tape definitely is sold for hockey sticks, but not all hockey tape is friction tape, usually just the thin cloth BS. Friction tape is for the OEM look, but techflex FTW. That's what I'll be doing when I go MS next year.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Hemingway'sToe said:


> Friction tape definitely is sold for hockey sticks, but not all hockey tape is friction tape, usually just the thin cloth BS. Friction tape is for the OEM look, but techflex FTW. That's what I'll be doing when I go MS next year.


Techflex is where it is at. Easy to work with and excellent material properties. :thumbup:

BTW we need to grab beers sometime soon. :beer:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jettalvr41 said:


> so i pulled the entire wiring out of my 1992 front to back, i noticed its all connected with little or no way of unconnecting it. anyone every split it up into sections? like for example...
> 
> engine bay harness.
> drivers side cabin harness
> ...


Ummm. It is all different sections of harness that unplug separately.

Engine bay is actually a couple different sections of harness. Rear harness is one section, etc etc etc.


----------



## JohnnyCee (Mar 26, 2011)

*vr6 wont start*

My 1990 corrado wont start it will turn over but it wont actually fire and it is getting gas and it is getting a spark but a weak spark. help!!


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

JohnnyCee said:


> My 1990 corrado wont start it will turn over but it wont actually fire and it is getting gas and it is getting a spark but a weak spark. help!!


Basic Diagnosis: If spark is weak, replace Coil and recheck. If still weak, check for supply voltage to coil.


----------



## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

DUBZAK said:


> Basic Diagnosis: If spark is weak, replace Coil and recheck. If still weak, check for supply voltage to coil.


Or check supply voltage first. Its free, whereas a new coil costs money.



Im having a little bit of a hard timing getting into first gear. When i try to hit first like normal it slides right into third everytime. If i put a decent amount of pressure against the stick it will find first but its never done that before.

Its a 93 SLC, and over the last few months I have done Head gasket/chain guides tensioners/ and rear main seal. Not sure if this is related unless i ****ed something up reinstalling the trans/linkages/weight.

I have only been driving it again for about two weeks, the first 100 miles or so were fine then this started.


----------



## MrBland (Jul 9, 2010)

*Shift Lever?*

Does anybody know where I can get a new (or used) shift lever? I'm not talking about the shifter inside, but the part that the shift weight attaches to. I've no idea where to find one other than part out threads and I haven't had very much luck with that. Car is a 1992 VR6. 

Part #? Wagenstad is down so I haven't been able to look it up. I've been needing this part for a while, just no luck in my search. 

Thanks for the help!


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

Whats the best tire size to fit 17's? Specially in the front. My Boy is trying to figure out best fitment, I have 16's and never had 17's so I couldnt tell him. He told me wheels are 17x8 all around and offset is 20 up front. Any help is appreciated thx.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

dfuze1 said:


> Whats the best tire size to fit 17's? Specially in the front. My Boy is trying to figure out best fitment, I have 16's and never had 17's so I couldnt tell him. He told me wheels are 17x8 all around and offset is 20 up front. Any help is appreciated thx.


Quite vague^^ ....but anyhow, most opt for *205/40/17*


VR or G60?
Coilovers?
Slammed or modest drop?


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Quite vague^^ ....but anyhow, most opt for *205/40/17*
> 
> 
> VR or G60?
> ...



VR
Yes
dropped, just not quite slammed


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Quite vague^^ ....but anyhow, most opt for *205/40/17*
> 
> 
> VR or G60?
> ...


What no 185/35/17 nankangs? You guys are lame


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> What no 185/35/17 nankangs? You guys are lame


:laugh: I'm not baller enough I guess, I'm gonna get 195/45's for the Zenders btw (function over looks for the MK1)


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> :laugh: I'm not baller enough I guess, I'm gonna get 195/45's for the Zenders btw (function over looks for the MK1)


Nankang makes a 185/45/15 that would look good on those Zenders. Still decent function. :thumbup:


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

Can someone tell me where to buy the front control arm bolts for a 92 SLC? I have a hard time making it to the dealer and I cant seem to find them new online.


----------



## VeeSLCdub (Sep 29, 2010)

*Fuel Pump Question*

I have 92 Corrado VR6 and I just put a new fuel pump in it. It idled/ran fine for 20 minutes. Moved it from one bay to another with no issues. Started it about 20x and each time had no problems at all. Went to back it out of the bay. It stalled and wouldn't start back up?? The fuel pump primes when the ignition is turned on, but the pump isn't running when trying to start. It's like it isn't getting in electric/power. However, when I put power to it manually the pump will run?? Any one have any ideas, suggestions, or similiar issues with a Corrado?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

VeeSLCdub said:


> I have 92 Corrado VR6 and I just put a new fuel pump in it. It idled/ran fine for 20 minutes. Moved it from one bay to another with no issues. Started it about 20x and each time had no problems at all. Went to back it out of the bay. It stalled and wouldn't start back up?? The fuel pump primes when the ignition is turned on, but the pump isn't running when trying to start. It's like it isn't getting in electric/power. However, when I put power to it manually the pump will run?? Any one have any ideas, suggestions, or similiar issues with a Corrado?


Probably a bad fuel pump relay.


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

Went driving today, came back home, put the window up, stops about 1 inch from the top. I took the door panel off and looked around until it started pouring, didn't see too much. 

Is my regulator probably busted, or are there any common things that get in the way/I should check? I'll take another look tomorrow, but any tips would be nice.


----------



## pan1k (Jul 18, 2002)

*FPR... how to remove?*

I tried to replace my FPR tonight. I took off the clip and the vacuum line. I pulled straight up on the FPR but it won't come out.. is there another clip I am missing?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

pan1k said:


> I tried to replace my FPR tonight. I took off the clip and the vacuum line. I pulled straight up on the FPR but it won't come out.. is there another clip I am missing?


Quit pulling on it like a Thai ladyboy. they get stuck in there.


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

elijah- said:


> Went driving today, came back home, put the window up, stops about 1 inch from the top. I took the door panel off and looked around until it started pouring, didn't see too much.
> 
> Is my regulator probably busted, or are there any common things that get in the way/I should check? I'll take another look tomorrow, but any tips would be nice.


 The plastic guide on your regulator broke. Do a search for regulator in this forum, and you will find all the info you need to repair or replace.


----------



## pan1k (Jul 18, 2002)

TheBurninator said:


> Quit pulling on it like a Thai ladyboy. they get stuck in there.


:laugh: LOL!!! Well the new BOSCH regulator is from China.. D'oH!:facepalm:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

pan1k said:


> :laugh: LOL!!! Well the new BOSCH regulator is from China.. D'oH!:facepalm:


Didn't know having the part made in China makes the owner a Thai ladyboy :wave:


----------



## pan1k (Jul 18, 2002)

TheBurninator said:


> Didn't know having the part made in China makes the owner a Thai ladyboy :wave:


Well I pulled the FPR and broke the fuel rail. :facepalm:


----------



## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

NoCYet said:


> The plastic guide on your regulator broke. Do a search for regulator in this forum, and you will find all the info you need to repair or replace.


Thanks! I'll check it out.



TheBurninator said:


> Quit pulling on it like a Thai ladyboy. they get stuck in there.


I'm obviously missing something here...


----------



## vdubman2.0t (Mar 24, 2009)

Any one know if it is possible to swap a newer style obd1 vr MAF for the old obd1 style? Obviously the plug is diff but can it be cut and spliced to accept a newer plug for the newer MAF? Any insight would be great! Thanks in advance


----------



## iflekstad (Mar 9, 2002)

*Knocking sound from subframe after swap*

I swapped my G60 subframe with another one from the junk yard, and is experiencing knocking sounds at braking and fast directional change at slow speeds. I've replaced the two rear-most bolts with new ones, tightened to 100nm (90 lb-ft) with locktite, and tightened the two front-most bolts at 150nm (110 lb-ft). The front-most bolts are tight, but the rear ones I believe could be tighter (they got lose over and over again before replacing them with new ones and without locktite).

So to my question: What is the torque specs for these bolts, and are any of them stretch bolts?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

iflekstad said:


> I swapped my G60 subframe with another one from the junk yard, and is experiencing knocking sounds at braking and fast directional change at slow speeds. I've replaced the two rear-most bolts with new ones, tightened to 100nm (90 lb-ft) with locktite, and tightened the two front-most bolts at 150nm (110 lb-ft). The front-most bolts are tight, but the rear ones I believe could be tighter (they got lose over and over again before replacing them with new ones and without locktite).
> 
> So to my question: What is the torque specs for these bolts, and are any of them stretch bolts?


They are all stretch bolts. Listing for torque specs are in the bentley. 96 ft lb for the big bolts


----------



## eddmannVR6 (Nov 6, 2004)

*92 Corrado VR6 ECU Replacement*

Hello Gentlemen, and Ladies. I understand this is the place to get answers about my Corrado. I recently completely gutted my 92 VR6 by removing the engine and transmission, replacing the clutch, and many MANY other mechanical and electrical components both recently, and in the years previous, before it stopped running. The VERY LAST thing that we decided to DOUBLE check, was the internal's of the ECU. Well Holy Horse-*hit...I had a bigazz melted brown spot on my circit-board. Needless to say, my computer is no good and I am in DESPERATE need of a replacement. There are plenty out there for sale, but NONE that will match up to my Raddo. The ECU number is 021-906-258 CD. The important part being the "CD" at the end. The part number is common on alot of the ECU's, however I have had the hardest time trying to locate a computer ending in CD. I know the replacement needs to be from a VR6 with a MANUAL transmission, a distributor, and probably close to the same year in the order for it to be compatible. So, my question is, does ANYbody know what other computer / codes are compatible with my Corrado BESIDES the one ending in CD? I think one ending in "P" might work but???? Thank you for ANY help or information that you can provide.

Eddie ....


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

eddmannVR6 said:


> Hello Gentlemen, and Ladies. I understand this is the place to get answers about my Corrado. I recently completely gutted my 92 VR6 by removing the engine and transmission, replacing the clutch, and many MANY other mechanical and electrical components both recently, and in the years previous, before it stopped running. The VERY LAST thing that we decided to DOUBLE check, was the internal's of the ECU. Well Holy Horse-*hit...I had a bigazz melted brown spot on my circit-board. Needless to say, my computer is no good and I am in DESPERATE need of a replacement. There are plenty out there for sale, but NONE that will match up to my Raddo. The ECU number is 021-906-258 CD. The important part being the "CD" at the end. The part number is common on alot of the ECU's, however I have had the hardest time trying to locate a computer ending in CD. I know the replacement needs to be from a VR6 with a MANUAL transmission, a distributor, and probably close to the same year in the order for it to be compatible. So, my question is, does ANYbody know what other computer / codes are compatible with my Corrado BESIDES the one ending in CD? I think one ending in "P" might work but???? Thank you for ANY help or information that you can provide.
> 
> Eddie ....


Wow.....Eddie.....please more punctuation and new paragraphs. Could have just asked, "what other ECU's will fit my 92 Distributor?" without all that. lol

Any ECU for a 92 VR6 Distributor Motor regardless of the "CD" will work. If the car is a California Car and are in California, and needed for Cali emissions, search a little harder, they are out there. If not use any Dizzy ECU for your *RADO* and you will be fine. 

Good luck.


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

DUBZAK said:


> Differential bearings or diff itself.


if the differential bearings give, or the diff gives, will my car not move anymore...?
never had a diff go out on me so i dont know...
all i know is right now it clatters in first gear...

and then the rest as i mentioned on an earlier page

dont have the funds at the moment to get another trans, so im asking..
i wouldnt want it to completely blow then my car wont be able to move anymore :banghead:



eurobred said:


> i got one for you pros
> 
> vibration while off throttle in gear only... in neutral its still present but very very faint.
> 
> ...


----------



## eddmannVR6 (Nov 6, 2004)

*Thanks*

Yeah, my post WAS a bit longwinded, thank you for re-posting it. 



Anyways, im new to these forums so, rookie mistakes. Since mine is a 5-speed, does the replacement ECU have to come from a car with a *MANUAL *trans? I will continue my search for an ECU, I've spent dozens of hours searching and have only found a few, and they were already purchased. 92 VR6....with *DIZZY*

Thanks. Eddie.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

eurobred said:


> if the differential bearings give, or the diff gives, will my car not move anymore...?
> never had a diff go out on me so i dont know...
> all i know is right now it clatters in first gear...
> 
> ...


Without pulling the trans and opening it up everything is speculation. 



eddmannVR6 said:


> Yeah, my post WAS a bit longwinded, thank you for re-posting it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Manual is the best, Automatic will still work. Many Auto to Manual Swaps with a Auto ECU still running the car. :thumbup:


----------



## VeeSLCdub (Sep 29, 2010)

*Fuel Power Pump Problem!!! Please Help!!!*

Ok, replaced the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay. I bought car not running and was told it was the fuel pump. When I replaced fuel pump the car ran for about 20 minutes and idled fine. When I went to pull out of bay, the car stalled and won't restart. I replaced the fuel pump relay today and still nothing. The benley book talks about replacing a fuel injection control unit, but there are no pictures or explanation what this is or does?? So, I don't know what I'm looking for or how to go about finding it?? Again, the issue is this...the fuel is priming for the 1 second when ignition is turned on, but there is no power going to the fuel pump to allow it to run. If I put power to the pump manually then the fuel pump runs, but not the car. Also, I checked the injectors for a pulse and have nothing?? Any ideas, suggestions, thoughts would be most appreciated!!!


----------



## vdubman2.0t (Mar 24, 2009)

vdubman2.0t said:


> Any one know if it is possible to swap a newer style obd1 vr MAF for the old obd1 style? Obviously the plug is diff but can it be cut and spliced to accept a newer plug for the newer MAF? Any insight would be great! Thanks in advance


Guess no go on this boys?


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

vdubman2.0t said:


> Guess no go on this boys?


They are not interchangeable. Motronic has different references in the newer software / MAF technology.


----------



## vdubman2.0t (Mar 24, 2009)

TheLateJetta said:


> They are not interchangeable. Motronic has different references in the newer software / MAF technology.


Ok thanks a lot man


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

Hey there, Im still helping my buddy in trying to find some daily's for his Rado VR. (I'm also trying to help him fix his PC so I dont have to ask all the questions! )
So, help and opinions He wants to buy a set of Twists 17x7.5 and 17x9, 
et 52 front
et47 rear
Will this work, and what could be the challenges?
-Thx


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

dfuze1 said:


> Hey there, Im still helping my buddy in trying to find some daily's for his Rado VR. (I'm also trying to help him fix his PC so I dont have to ask all the questions! )
> So, help and opinions He wants to buy a set of Twists 17x7.5 and 17x9,
> et 52 front
> et47 rear
> ...


 :laugh:

Tell your "buddy" without knowing his adapter sizes there is no way to tell how well, and tell your "buddy" to use the wheel fitment thread and read to find the answer himself. 

:wave:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ders-offset-et-suspension-your-moms-horoscope


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> EVERYTHING OFFSET AND WHEEL RELATED has already been posted (and I even helped you with a HUGE amount of information in person and in the link I just posted) So excuse us for not catering to a person who cannot think on their own.
> 
> Kthanxbye


And this:

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=wheel+offset+calculator


----------



## VeeSLCdub (Sep 29, 2010)

*Car not starting??*

Ok, so I understand that the fuel injector control unit is the ECU. However, I am wondering if it matters that the manifold has been upgraded from a 2.8 to a 2.9. When I order a new ECU should I get basic 92 VR6 ECU or should I get a 2.9 vr6 ECU? Does it matter or is there no difference? Additionally, I am going to try to replace the ECU relay first, but it sure sounds like I need to buy a new ECU according to the Bentley manual. Does anyone have any other suggestions for why the car will not start. Again, replaced the fuel pump and the car ran for about 20 minutes and started over and over again about 10 to 15 times. Went to pull it out of the bay and it stalled and wouldn't restart. The fuel pump is priming when the ignition is turned on, but isn't running unless I manually put power to it and even then it will not start the car. I also checked the fuel injectors for a "pulse", but nothing is working on that front either which also leads me to believe it could be the ECU. I replaced the fuel pump relay and that did nothing. I ordered the ECU relay unit today simply hoping that I won't need to buy a new ECU, but that seems to be my next option. I just don't want to buy an ECU and find out that wasn't the problem either. Does anyone have any past experience, suggestions, or thoughts about my lovely situation??


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

VeeSLCdub said:


> Ok, so I understand that the fuel injector control unit is the ECU. However, I am wondering if it matters that the manifold has been upgraded from a 2.8 to a 2.9. When I order a new ECU should I get basic 92 VR6 ECU or should I get a 2.9 vr6 ECU? Does it matter or is there no difference? *Do not need a 2.9 ECU unless you have a Euro Engine Harness*Additionally, I am going to try to replace the ECU relay first, but it sure sounds like I need to buy a new ECU according to the Bentley manual. Does anyone have any other suggestions for why the car will not start. *Check the crank sensor, and ECM Relay before you go nuts throwing parts at it*Again, replaced the fuel pump and the car ran for about 20 minutes and started over and over again about 10 to 15 times. Went to pull it out of the bay and it stalled and wouldn't restart. The fuel pump is priming when the ignition is turned on, but isn't running unless I manually put power to it and even then it will not start the car. I also checked the fuel injectors for a "pulse", but nothing is working on that front either which also leads me to believe it could be the ECU. I replaced the fuel pump relay and that did nothing. I ordered the ECU relay unit today simply hoping that I won't need to buy a new ECU, but that seems to be my next option. I just don't want to buy an ECU and find out that wasn't the problem either. Does anyone have any past experience, suggestions, or thoughts about my lovely situation??


Have you opened up the ECU and confirmed it is not fried? Check for burns on it. 

We are here to help, but man please try to use paragraphs so its not an eye strain to try and read. 

Recheck those other items and get back to us.


----------



## DubCorrado (Aug 7, 2009)

Ok so Im replacing my timing belt and I almost have the crank pulley bolt off. I have a 1990 Corrado G60 and I was wandering, Is the Crankpulley bolt reverse thread? or is it righty tighty, left loosey?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

DubCorrado said:


> Ok so Im replacing my timing belt and I almost have the crank pulley bolt off. I have a 1990 Corrado G60 and I was wandering, Is the Crankpulley bolt reverse thread? or is it righty tighty, left loosey?


Normal thread.

Gotta be a man about it and not a thai ladyboy :laugh::laugh:


----------



## me50 (May 28, 2009)

Good morning everybody!

Hope everyone got a good night of sleep and is in a wonderful mood today!

Ok. First question for the Experts....who wants to be first...come on now, don't be shy...


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

Anybody really good with wiring? I'm trying to do something OEM/custom with the fans and A/C and any help would be super. Even if someone can give me basics on wiring diagrams it would be much appreciated.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

iAco said:


> Anybody really good with wiring? I'm trying to do something OEM/custom with the fans and A/C and any help would be super. Even if someone can give me basics on wiring diagrams it would be much appreciated.


Sounds like you need to Dial Kyle @ 1-900-Get Kyle. 

$5.00 for the first minute $3.99 each additional. 

If you know any whores, he does offer a 90 Minutes same as cash for the females though.  :laugh:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

iAco said:


> Anybody really good with wiring? I'm trying to do something OEM/custom with the fans and A/C and any help would be super. Even if someone can give me basics on wiring diagrams it would be much appreciated.





DUBZAK said:


> Sounds like you need to Dial Kyle @ 1-900-Get Kyle.
> 
> $5.00 for the first minute $3.99 each additional.
> 
> If you know any whores, he does offer a 90 Minutes same as cash for the females though.  :laugh:


:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:

For Nick I will do it for $1 a minute after the initial minute. 

Need to know year of car and what kind of setup you are trying to run. :thumbup:


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Is there fuses that could of blown so my oil/seatbelt led (in gauge cluster) stoped working? I replaced the oil led and still dosent work,then I noticed my seatbelt light dosent work either.


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

converting my abs vr to non abs...

these part numbers work for the conversion?

357-611-019-B
357-612-107-A
?


----------



## DubCorrado (Aug 7, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Normal thread.
> 
> Gotta be a man about it and not a thai ladyboy :laugh::laugh:


Sweet thanks man. Speaking of Thai ladies I could use a massage right now


----------



## erickramirez (Aug 2, 2008)

*need some quick tips*

im replacing the O rings on my injectors, ive heard some horror stories about removing them so im not sure if i can take this on myself or if i should have a shop do it. ive R&R the valve cover, supercharger, alternator, and throttlebody before so i have some experience. i have a BBM fuel rail. any advice?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

erickramirez said:


> im replacing the O rings on my injectors, ive heard some horror stories about removing them so im not sure if i can take this on myself or if i should have a shop do it. ive R&R the valve cover, supercharger, alternator, and throttlebody before so i have some experience. i have a BBM fuel rail. any advice?


Use vasoline when installing the injectors into the rail/head so you don't tear them.


----------



## SLC4EVER (Oct 7, 1999)

Not that it really matters these days, but I'd consider a non-petroleum based lube like silicone grease just for good practice. :thumbup:


----------



## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

Am I the only one that just spits on them?


----------



## erickramirez (Aug 2, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Use vasoline when installing the injectors into the rail/head so you don't tear them.


did some more searching, i keep coming across these clips that are notorious for breaking when removing the injectors, are these clips present with the BBM fuel rail? are they the ones that hold the injectors to the rail? i couldnt find any pics. i ordered the o rings from VW (pickin em up tomoro) but not sure if they will come with said clips..


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Use vasoline when installing the injectors into the rail/head so you don't tear them.


Intake cleaner is the way to go, IMHO, when installing injectors, just have to work slightly quicker.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

erickramirez said:


> did some more searching, i keep coming across these clips that are notorious for breaking when removing the injectors, are these clips present with the BBM fuel rail? are they the ones that hold the injectors to the rail? i couldnt find any pics. i ordered the o rings from VW (pickin em up tomoro) but not sure if they will come with said clips..


I've only seen clips that hold the injectors on the rail (metal ones).
If those are the one you're reffering to, then from my personal experience nothing broke when I took out the injectors on mine - and NO, the o-rings don't come with the said clips...

If I were you tho, I would also replace the injector caps (plastic, 1 on each injector - those are notorious for going bad/break and mess up the spray pattern - cheap stuff too )


----------



## wed3k (Feb 22, 2010)

ive always used motor oil with no issues.


----------



## 610corrado (Jul 29, 2011)

*where can i find*

where can i find a corrado thats for sale?


----------



## SLC4EVER (Oct 7, 1999)

There is a classifieds forum for that purpose...

http://forums.vwvortex.com/forumdisplay.php?827-Corrado-Cars


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

610corrado said:


> where can i find a corrado thats for sale?


The junkyard.


----------



## VeeSLCdub (Sep 29, 2010)

*.....*



DUBZAK said:


> Have you opened up the ECU and confirmed it is not fried? Check for burns on it.
> 
> We are here to help, but man please try to use paragraphs so its not an eye strain to try and read.
> 
> Recheck those other items and get back to us.


Put in the new ECU relay and crank sensor today and still no luck. Pulled the ECU out to check it and found a prong broken and someone had tried to reroute it from the harness directly to the ECU and upon shaking it, the car started and ran. Shook it some more and it stalled!!!

So, I'm on a mission to find a new ECU, but the question is will any Corrado vr6 manual ECU work or does it have to be the specific #'s on the ECU I currently have in my possession?


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

*hid's or ecodes*

Almost crashed the rado the other night in the rain. I lost sight of the road and need to do something with the lights. What is a better route for visability Hid's or ecodes. I understand that hid's in ecodes are probably the best option but not looking to drop that much yet. Is there a prefered hid brand and or plug and play kit you guys like or should I first switch to ecodes. Thanks Sean


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

nu2dubbing said:


> Almost crashed the rado the other night in the rain. I lost sight of the road and need to do something with the lights. What is a better route for visability Hid's or ecodes. I understand that hid's in ecodes are probably the best option but not looking to drop that much yet. Is there a prefered hid brand and or plug and play kit you guys like or should I first switch to ecodes. Thanks Sean


Ecodes. Then HID.

You can get a really nice HID setup for cheap from DDMtuning. Lifetime waranty


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

*Thank you*

Thanks for the info:thumbup:


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

Just wanting to know if its possible to repair a busted 02A diff


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

G60Ron said:


> Just wanting to know if its possible to repair a busted 02A diff


If you are going to spend the time opening up the transmission, Replace the Diff with either a good used one, or a Pelequin. Trying to repair a differential is bad idea especially since so much labor is involved with just getting to it.


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> If you are going to spend the time opening up the transmission, Replace the Diff with either a good used one, or a Pelequin. Trying to repair a differential is bad idea especially since so much labor is involved with just getting to it.


Thanks zak I just bought a whole /working 02A for 300 buck I get it tonight when ever fed ex decides to pass my by house lol so my cuz owns a awesome tranny shop so tomorrow I'm goin to drop it off so he can open it and let me know if its needs any help as far as bearing or synchros


----------



## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

Well I was going to scan through all these pages but there's a dump load! I just bought my 1st Corrado and it needs quite a bit of work. 90 G60, boner stock. I think it's my 15th VW so I'm not a noob by any standards. Anywho...first question: just wondering where the best places were for parts, both OE maintenance and aftermarket replacement parts. Thanks in advance! :thumbup:


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

Germanautoparts.com one of the first places i go personally.


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

:banghead::banghead: im so sick of looking at wheels and trying to figure out if they will fit correctly and then end up in the same place I started:banghead: I'm wondering now how 16x8 et27??will fit http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5465122-BBS-RS-16x8-5x100-57.1-et-27-Not-redrills 
I'm not quit understanding this offset thing


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Tk2g60 said:


> :banghead::banghead: im so sick of looking at wheels and trying to figure out if they will fit correctly and then end up in the same place I started:banghead: I'm wondering now how 16x8 et27??will fit http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5465122-BBS-RS-16x8-5x100-57.1-et-27-Not-redrills
> I'm not quit understanding this offset thing


http://www.1010tires.com/wheeloffsetcalculator.asp


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

*Hid*

DDM is asking for bulb color starting with 3000k to 120000k. What do you guys recommend?


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

nu2dubbing said:


> DDM is asking for bulb color starting with 3000k to 120000k. What do you guys recommend?


Are you sticking with n/a or going with ecodes. I used 3k for my fogs and 10k for my n/a lights. Thanks for the off set site:thumbup:


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

Euro if I can get a good price


----------



## 22beast (Jul 27, 2010)

do you guys have any suggestions for a stubborn motor mount. the transmission one... I have tried everything


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

nu2dubbing said:


> Euro if I can get a good price


4300k 55w it will be a nice bright white


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> 4300k 55w it will be a nice bright white


Think that's like stock hid's if you want something a lil brighter try some in the 5k range. If you google hid color chart you can see the differences in colors and choose what you prefer:thumbup: 
Good luck Sean, hopefully this spring I'll have my baby on the road then I'll try to get up your way so we can meet officially :beer:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Tk2g60 said:


> Think that's like stock hid's if you want something a lil brighter try some in the 5k range. If you google hid color chart you can see the differences in colors and choose what you prefer:thumbup:
> Good luck Sean, hopefully this spring I'll have my baby on the road then I'll try to get up your way so we can meet officially :beer:


Honestly 4300k-4500k is the brightest. It goes down from there when you go up to higher kelvin bulbs.

I have 6000k's in one of my cars and there is a clear difference in visibility between them and my audi which is 4300k's

55w ballasts do wash out the color a little bit too. :thumbup:


----------



## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

I have a question regarding speaker wiring and the AKTIV amps...

I removed the door panel for another issue and while at it i looked at the wiring and i was wondering why there was two loose wire... Are they supposed to be hooked up to the speaker itself, see pic for reference.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Looks like the original wiring.


----------



## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

HavokRuels said:


> Looks like the original wiring.


Ok so if the 2 tranparent/blue stripe (home speaker wire) are connected straigt to the 2 coming from the door sill, and theyre the only ones on the speaker itself.. Is my amp working or its just there waiting to unleash more power


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

*Hid*

Thanks for all the help guys!


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

Seb--Morin said:


> I have a question regarding speaker wiring and the AKTIV amps...
> 
> I removed the door panel for another issue and while at it i looked at the wiring and i was wondering why there was two loose wire... Are they supposed to be hooked up to the speaker itself, see pic for reference.


 Someone bypassed the aktiv amp.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Seb--Morin said:


> Ok so if the 2 tranparent/blue stripe (home speaker wire) are connected straigt to the 2 coming from the door sill, and theyre the only ones on the speaker itself.. Is my amp working or its just there waiting to unleash more power


Like NoCyet said, amp was bypassed. Might have more power waiting


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

*VR Fogs*

So my fog lights are cracked  (shocked, right?) and I would like to replace the lenses, as replacing the entire assembly is somewhat cost prohibitive.

I've read about the "Rally" fog lights from Pep Boys.

Are these available anymore? I've googled and cannot find any info about them and all the links I find are dead.

TIA.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

I don't really drive my car very much but today, while we were crusing with our local VW club, I noticed that my odometer stopped working ('90 G60 - cable drive). 
Everything else works fine on the cluster itself...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> I don't really drive my car very much but today, while we were crusing with our local VW club, I noticed that my odometer stopped working ('90 G60 - cable drive).
> Everything else works fine on the cluster itself...


Probably the cable that broke...


----------



## SLC4EVER (Oct 7, 1999)

Wouldn't the speedometer stop working if the cable broke?  No idea what's inside a G60 cluster.

On my 16V Scirooco the odometer stopped working, but everything else worked. Ended up being the drive gear for the odometer was slipping on the shaft it rides on. I had to glue it in place.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Probably the cable that broke...





SLC4EVER said:


> Wouldn't the speedometer stop working if the cable broke?  No idea what's inside a G60 cluster.


That's what I figured.
My speedo works and everything else too...




SLC4EVER said:


> On my 16V Scirooco the odometer stopped working, but everything else worked. Ended up being the drive gear for the odometer was slipping on the shaft it rides on. I had to glue it in place.


Will check that out :beer:

I noticed that sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Its like it gets stuck sometimes


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> I noticed that sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Its like it gets stuck sometimes



That sounds more like the speedo gear in the cluster.


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

Just wondering if there is different turn signals for the early model Vr vs. The later model Vr? Cause I've seen some that were all clear I'm guessing with a orange bulb then I see one that's a clear lens and very noticeable orange reflector? Or am I just crazy:screwy:


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

RedYellowWhite said:


> I don't really drive my car very much but today, while we were crusing with our local VW club, I noticed that my odometer stopped working ('90 G60 - cable drive).
> Everything else works fine on the cluster itself...


My last corrados speedo didnt work. The guy I bought it from said it needed to hooked up some where on the trans? (speed senor?)He said he removed it for some reason I forgot and he never got around to putting it back. Take a look down there and see if it got dissconnected.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Tk2g60 said:


> Just wondering if there is different turn signals for the early model Vr vs. The later model Vr? Cause I've seen some that were all clear I'm guessing with a orange bulb then I see one that's a clear lens and very noticeable orange reflector? Or am I just crazy:screwy:


VR6 turns are all the same



g60301 said:


> My last corrados speedo didnt work. The guy I bought it from said it needed to hooked up some where on the trans? He said he removed it for some reason I forgot and he never got around to putting it back. Take a look down there and see if it got dissconnected.


Doubt it. The speedo cable gets bolted into the transmission. It doesn't just pop out.


----------



## Cap0 (Apr 18, 2006)

*what are these*

removed headliner to mess with the sunroof and found these









 any clue? sorry for the big crappy cell phone pic.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

g60301 said:


> My last corrados speedo didnt work. The guy I bought it from said it needed to hooked up some where on the trans? (speed senor?)He said he removed it for some reason I forgot and he never got around to putting it back. Take a look down there and see if it got dissconnected.


Old-spec Corrados, ie. G60 don't have a speed sensor, they are mechanical ie. cable driven...




TheBurninator said:


> Doubt it. The speedo cable gets bolted into the transmission. It doesn't just pop out.


^^Also even if that was the case, then the speedometer wouldn't work either, right?



Will pull the cluster out tomorrow and check it out.
Thanks for the help :thumbup: :beer:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Cap0 said:


> removed headliner to mess with the sunroof and found these
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Caps for the end of the sunroof track.


----------



## Cap0 (Apr 18, 2006)

DUBZAK said:


> Caps for the end of the sunroof track.


ahh. thanks a bunch!


----------



## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

Speaking of sunroofs...which Passat sunroofs will bolt in easily?


----------



## pan1k (Jul 18, 2002)

twoteks said:


> Speaking of sunroofs...which Passat sunroofs will bolt in easily?


B3 & B4. I have a B3 that I need to swap in...


----------



## DubCorrado (Aug 7, 2009)

*Possible side mount intercooler leak?*

I installed a lysholm unit in my car not to long ago, along with the whole stage 4 bbm kit. And im only seeing 10 psi and sometimes 12 at max, when i should be getting around 16psi with the 55mm pulley correct?. I checked my piping and tightened all the clamps, but that didnt change the psi levels i got, still at 10-12. And im still running the stock side mount intercooler as well. Is it possible that the intercooler unit could be leaking those extra 4-6 psi?

Thanks


----------



## badtaste (Mar 2, 2010)

Busted my pan about a month back and finally had the time to drop it today and turns out I busted my pump as well and found these wonders in the pan I was wondering if these hd anything to do with the timing chain


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

badtaste said:


> Busted my pan about a month back and finally had the time to drop it today and turns out I busted my pump as well and found these wonders in the pan I was wondering if these hd anything to do with the timing chain


Could be... Hard to tell with that tiny pic.


----------



## badtaste (Mar 2, 2010)

Yea sorry about the pic best I could do at that moment in time but thanks figure I should probably replace the chain anyways


----------



## VeeSLCdub (Sep 29, 2010)

*Just an update and thanks!!!!*



VeeSLCdub said:


> Put in the new ECU relay and crank sensor today and still no luck. Pulled the ECU out to check it and found a prong broken and someone had tried to reroute it from the harness directly to the ECU and upon shaking it, the car started and ran. Shook it some more and it stalled!!!
> 
> So, I'm on a mission to find a new ECU, but the question is will any Corrado vr6 manual ECU work or does it have to be the specific #'s on the ECU I currently have in my possession?


Put in another ECU (thanks to MeowMix girl in SF) and car finally started up and is running great!!! Just got the inspection yesterday and I'm enjoying my new toy!!! Thanks to Dubzak for all the help and great information!!!! You all rock!!!


----------



## yip (Jul 14, 2003)

DubCorrado said:


> I installed a lysholm unit in my car not to long ago, along with the whole stage 4 bbm kit. And im only seeing 10 psi and sometimes 12 at max, when i should be getting around 16psi with the 55mm pulley correct?. I checked my piping and tightened all the clamps, but that didnt change the psi levels i got, still at 10-12. And im still running the stock side mount intercooler as well. Is it possible that the intercooler unit could be leaking those extra 4-6 psi?
> 
> Thanks


The highest I saw with a 55mm pulley on my lysholm was 14psi at redline. You can take your intercooler to a radiator shop to have them clean and pressure test it.


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

badtaste said:


> Busted my pan about a month back and finally had the time to drop it today and turns out I busted my pump as well and found these wonders in the pan I was wondering if these hd anything to do with the timing chain


 That's a chunk from the top edge of your upper timing chain tensioner and part of two of the rivets that hold it to it's backing plate.


----------



## erickramirez (Aug 2, 2008)

Everytime i put a fresh tank of gas in my g60 the car runs much better than average for a couple min then goes back to normal, regardless of how low on gas it was (and i always put the highest available octane). 
It seems to idle better, accelerate better, and even exhaust sounds nicer....has a new fuel pump and cleaned injectors, anyone else ever notice this?


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

So I looking into these wheels 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5465122-BBS-RS-16x8-5x100-57.1-et-27-Not-redrills
In the thread someone asks for the rs# he said there is none. Is that something I should be worried about or..... Are these the real deal and a steal??


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Real Deal. Plus they already have lips on them. They were 16x7 and are now 1" wider with slant lips. 

VW Center Bore of 57.1.


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

They were originally 17x7 they are 16x8 now I thought originally they were 16x7 or16x6.5


----------



## corrado-correr (Jul 8, 2004)

I need a deal on a Sparco Sprint 5 race seat (preferably in black). Anyone know a guy?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Tk2g60 said:


> They were originally 17x7 they are 16x8 now I thought originally they were 16x7 or16x6.5


Sorry, 16x7 and corrected it. It is stamped on the inside of the wheel in the pictures in that thread BTW.


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Sorry, 16x7 and corrected it. It is stamped on the inside of the wheel in the pictures in that thread BTW.


Yeah I thought I saw bbs stamped in there but it wasn't that good of a pic. Thanks for the help:beer:


----------



## vintage empire (Jan 11, 2002)

How do I get 1-3 HVAC fan speeds to work, 4th is too aggressive.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

vintage empire said:


> How do I get 1-3 HVAC fan speeds to work, 4th is too aggressive.


Replace the resistor pack that went bad


----------



## vintage empire (Jan 11, 2002)

TheBurninator said:


> Replace the resistor pack that went bad


Ball park price on the resistor? Thanks


----------



## SLC4EVER (Oct 7, 1999)

Before you do that, bring it over dude. It's probably the switch. We'll pull it apart and clean up the contacts, tweak the copper slightly, then lube the hell out of it with dielectric grease.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

vintage empire said:


> Ball park price on the resistor? Thanks


7 bucks? 
PN:
535959263



SLC4EVER said:


> Before you do that, bring it over dude. It's probably the switch. We'll pull it apart and clean up the contacts, tweak the copper slightly, then lube the hell out of it with dielectric grease.


I doubt the switch is bad since he has speed 4 and nothing else, but I would do that anyways.


----------



## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

Where can I find the window control module on a 90 G60?


----------



## clintg60-16v (Dec 13, 2002)

You can find the window control module by removing the drivers-side quarterpanel interior card... Sorry, but I just can't call it a "rear door card"! 

Once the card is removed, the control module will be found held in place on the car with two Phillips screws...


----------



## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

Found it! Thanks for the quick reply! :thumbup:


----------



## vintage empire (Jan 11, 2002)

SLC4EVER said:


> Before you do that, bring it over dude. It's probably the switch. We'll pull it apart and clean up the contacts, tweak the copper slightly, then lube the hell out of it with dielectric grease.


Sounds good Dave, let's try and team up soon, we are long over due for a Jager/Monster/Corrado gtg at your house. I;ll be in touch. :thumbup:



TheBurninator said:


> 7 bucks?
> PN:
> 535959263


Thanks for the help. :beer:


----------



## VeeSLCdub (Sep 29, 2010)

*???*

Here is my situation, I purchased a 92 VR6 Corrado about 2 months ago. It wasn't running when purchased. I put a new fuel pump, crank sensor, and ECU in it and it ran for about 2 weeks. It has since stopped running again and seemingly burnt up the ECU and fuel pump again.

I took it to a local VW guy and he seems to think the wiring is causing amp spike and that there is no sense and putting a new ECU and Fuel pump back in because it will most likely do the same thing again burn up the ECU and Fuel pump. He suggested the only remedy is a whole new wiring harnass which he wasn't willing to install and said would be quite pricey.

So, I am looking for suggestions?? Any thoughts?? What should I do? Get a second opinion? Try to find someone to do a wiring harnass? Part out? Sell as is and take a beating on what I paid?


----------



## clintg60-16v (Dec 13, 2002)

What kind of voltage is that alternator putting out?


----------



## erickramirez (Aug 2, 2008)

anyone know what these things are under the headlights? ive seen them on a couple Cs before, are they purely cosmetic? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTI-YLQvAro&feature=related


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

erickramirez said:


> anyone know what these things are under the headlights? ive seen them on a couple Cs before, are they purely cosmetic? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTI-YLQvAro&feature=related


Headlight washers were available on Canadian and Euro Models. Yes they are functional.


----------



## Codybrown (Jul 15, 2011)

I have a 2011 Jetta SE.. Would a 70 watt headlight bulb be bad for my car? I bought some nokyas that are 70 watts and I understand that normal bulbs are only 55 watts. I do not want these 70 watt bulbs destroying my new car.. so would they even work good and cause no problems? thanks


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Codybrown said:


> I have a 2011 Jetta SE.. Would a 70 watt headlight bulb be bad for my car? I bought some nokyas that are 70 watts and I understand that normal bulbs are only 55 watts. I do not want these 70 watt bulbs destroying my new car.. so would they even work good and cause no problems? thanks


****ing mk6 kids can't even post in the right forum.


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

mk6s :laugh::facepalm:


----------



## Codybrown (Jul 15, 2011)

*****ing mk6 kids can't even post in the right forum.*

Give me a break douche get a life and something better to get mad about lmao


----------



## vintage empire (Jan 11, 2002)

Post here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/forumdisplay.php?5310-Jetta-VI


----------



## `dub (May 21, 2010)

*Chassis fault code C3000 CEL*

Can anyone find the definiton of chassis fault code C3000 CEL. I searched the web and cand find that code. :banghead:

I have 2001 Golf GLS AWW 1.8t auto trans.
Mods: KN drop in, Forge TIP, DV, 2.5" Turbo back Cat-less with down stream o2 spacer, 2004.5 GLI springs, 17" ronals TT wheels. 

My Tech skills: Advanced (A&P Certificate)

Stuff I replaced since I owned it: Timing chain tensioner, frnt control arm bushings, all upper shock mounts, fuel filter, fwd o2 sensor, maf, thermostat, crankcase breather elbow pipe, Coolant resovior "Y" pipe. 

154K mi

Any help will be Greatly appreciated :beer:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

`dub said:


> Can anyone find the definiton of chassis fault code C3000 CEL. I searched the web and cand find that code. :banghead:
> 
> I have 2001 Golf GLS AWW 1.8t auto trans.
> Mods: KN drop in, Forge TIP, DV, 2.5" Turbo back Cat-less with down stream o2 spacer, 2004.5 GLI springs, 17" ronals TT wheels.
> ...


With those advanced tech skills you still don't know how to post in the right forum. This is the *Corrado* forum

Go buy a real scan tool like a VAG-COM


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

`dub said:


> Can anyone find the definiton of chassis fault code C3000 CEL. I searched the web and cand find that code. :banghead:
> 
> I have 2001 Golf GLS AWW 1.8t auto trans.
> Mods: KN drop in, Forge TIP, DV, 2.5" Turbo back Cat-less with down stream o2 spacer, 2004.5 GLI springs, 17" ronals TT wheels.
> ...





Codybrown said:


> I have a 2011 Jetta SE.. Would a 70 watt headlight bulb be bad for my car? I bought some nokyas that are 70 watts and I understand that normal bulbs are only 55 watts. I do not want these 70 watt bulbs destroying my new car.. so would they even work good and cause no problems? thanks


WTF is going on today? :screwy:


----------



## `dub (May 21, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> WTF is going on today? :screwy:


All I saw was Ask experts on google search. didnt realize i was cannon balling :laugh: in the wrong pool.


----------



## Panzerrabbit (Nov 12, 2011)

Just picked up my first g60 it has a stage 4 Kompressor Kanda supercharger on it and was wondering what type of basic matinance I can do to it? I really don't know how long ago it was rebuild last. Would the easiest thing to do is send it directly to them for a rebuild? I have been trying to research the company and haven't found much activity from them for a few years are they still working on these engines and as reliable as they have been in the past?


----------



## skaterazn (Jan 9, 2007)

`dub said:


> My Tech skills: Advanced (A&P Certificate)


 I hope you're not building 787's in SC...




Panzerrabbit said:


> Just picked up my first g60 it has a stage 4 Kompressor Kanda supercharger on it and was wondering what type of basic matinance I can do to it? I really don't know how long ago it was rebuild last. Would the easiest thing to do is send it directly to them for a rebuild? I have been trying to research the company and haven't found much activity from them for a few years are they still working on these engines and as reliable as they have been in the past?


 http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?562390

As for those companies.... I dont know since I don't own a G60


----------



## rochavr6 (Jan 20, 2010)

I have two quick questions. I'm still working on getting my corrado back on the road and decided to delete de carbon canister. As you can see on the pics, I put a filter on the line coming from the fuel tank, plugged the opening on the intake manifold and then looped the check valve. I have two quick questions about the delete.

1. Judging by the pictures, does the setup look correct?
2. Is the check valve suppose to be ticking all the time?

Here are some pics guys, thanks a lot for the help.


----------



## IndyCorrado (Dec 27, 2000)

Hey Guys!!! 
Working on my '92 SLC and wondering what combination of wrenches/sockets you use to remove the transmission mount bolt? I've already got the coolant reservoir removed and still can't get a straight shot down to it. Have tried a few swivel adaptors as well and I'm not having any luck. I dropped the transmission on my GTI-VR6 years ago and don't remember having this much trouble with removing one bolt. :banghead:

Thanks in advance!!

-Cory


----------



## skaterazn (Jan 9, 2007)

*FV-QR*

I think I used just a lot of swivels going from underneath or crows feet. I really can't remember


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

cyberstasi said:


> cyberstasi said:
> 
> 
> > Got a problem and not quite sure what the issue is. Im thinking it may be a fuel pump issue.
> ...



3rd try.. anyone dealt with something similar?


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> ****ing mk6 kids can't even post in the right forum.




now here is a questino for the experts... how often does our forum get picked for other vw models? 
are corrado guys going everywhere else for help... or are we just the lucky ones that get asked all the questions?
Or do people realize that we have to know everything about our cars, and they assume that makes us knowledgeable about theirs.
I find it incredible how often this seems to happen in this forum.


----------



## VAN CAN (Jul 4, 2010)

I hear a ticking coming from my speakers only when I got my stereo on. (oem vw tape deck/radio) the ticking speeds up as I drive faster, It sounds like its picking up a sensor or something. what could this be?

car 93 vr6.


----------



## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

How are you guys mounting europlates to your euro bumpers? Thanks Sean


----------



## deemee (Aug 7, 2011)

Ok so My 92 slc currently will not start. I recently picked up this car that as been dormant for several years and took it to a mechanic. He told me all I needed was a new fuel pump and go it running again for about 3 weeks. 

Since then I took care of a couple of maintenance things such as: new coolant g12++, low temp thermostat and switch, spark plugs, distributor cap, oil change. Now that car will not start and the Aux water pump is buzzing when the key is turned on. 

Any suggestions?


----------



## rochavr6 (Jan 20, 2010)

deemee said:


> Ok so My 92 slc currently will not start. I recently picked up this car that as been dormant for several years and took it to a mechanic. He told me all I needed was a new fuel pump and go it running again for about 3 weeks.
> 
> Since then I took care of a couple of maintenance things such as: new coolant g12++, low temp thermostat and switch, spark plugs, distributor cap, oil change. Now that car will not start and the Aux water pump is buzzing when the key is turned on.
> 
> Any suggestions?


You have to check what you're misssing, dou you have fuel going to the rail? Do you have spark out of your ignition coil? There are many things to check when the car doesn't want to start, fuel pump (even if was just replaced), clogged fuel filter, fuel pump relay, ecu relay, ignition coil, distributor, computer, sensors, etc...


----------



## deemee (Aug 7, 2011)

rochavr6 said:


> You have to check what you're misssing, dou you have fuel going to the rail? Do you have spark out of your ignition coil? There are many things to check when the car doesn't want to start, fuel pump (even if was just replaced), clogged fuel filter, fuel pump relay, ecu relay, ignition coil, distributor, computer, sensors, etc...


Ok thanks man. How do I know of a relay is bad? Is there anything visible to look for?


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Are the newer style heater/ac controls plug an play with the older style hvac controls? And the.gauge cluster aswell. Will I need to splice anything because of the digital odometer etc.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

g60301 said:


> Are the newer style heater/ac controls plug an play with the older style hvac controls? And the.gauge cluster aswell. Will I need to splice anything because of the digital odometer etc.


Nope. need the controls and heaterbox


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

TheBurninator said:


> Nope. need the controls and heaterbox


How about the 93' gauge cluster in my 90 g60? Interchangeable? Does it have the plug on the back for the vacum?


----------



## Norvel (Nov 15, 2011)

*POS Corrado 1991 G60 Automatic All Black Leather Interior Purple/Blue Factory Paint Job*

Hi there. I'm not new but I forgot my password to my other account.
I have a 91 G60 (Automatic) I regret buying it. It's given me more problems than the previous all white Manual Corrado my sister used to own.
There is a particular glitch on my vehicle. 
The brake/abs/checkengine light that only Auto Corracdos have does not turn on when you turn the key. Therefore I cannot pass SMOG check. I cannot for the life of me find that switch. 
The first two lights do turn on, the check engine light does not.
I went to the VW shop on Capitol here in San Jose and not only did they tell me they don't sell the cluster thing but ALL the light bulbs work!
The light used to work because I passed smog previously when I first purchased the car. Where might the problem be? In the instrument cluster (resistor or soemthing) or the cabling>? How can I find out? if I can't barrow another corrados check engine cluster because on manuals it doesn't even exist? Help!
On another note. :laugh:
Heres a funny retelling of a story about my Corrados infamous broken door handle i typed up last year over at the bimmer forums.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=19542657&postcount=63


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Norvel said:


> Hi there. I'm not new but I forgot my password to my other account.
> I have a 91 G60 (Automatic) I regret buying it. It's given me more problems than the previous all white Manual Corrado my sister used to own.
> There is a particular glitch on my vehicle.
> The brake/abs/checkengine light that only Auto Corracdos have does not turn on when you turn the key. Therefore I cannot pass SMOG check. I cannot for the life of me find that switch.
> ...


If you need another cluster, I have one for sale :thumbup:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

g60301 said:


> How about the 93' gauge cluster in my 90 g60? Interchangeable?...


93' cluster would be 6cyl, 90' g60 would be 4cyl = rpm's would be all wrong - you could make it work but it would be wiser to buy a Corrado 93' 2.0 16V 9A or 2.0 8V cluster from Europe, that's what I did anyway


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

RedYellowWhite said:


> 93' cluster would be 6cyl, 90' g60 would be 4cyl = rpm's would be all wrong - you could make it work but it would be wiser to buy a Corrado 93' 2.0 16V 9A or 2.0 8V cluster from Europe, that's what I did anyway


If you come across one lemme know brotha:beer::thumbup:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

g60301 said:


> If you come across one lemme know brotha:beer::thumbup:


You could find one rather easily on ebay.de or ebay.uk but I'll keep my eyes open too


----------



## girdwood (Mar 10, 2004)

*G60 Wilwood front brake setup*

So I did a search on Wilwood setups on G60 Corrados and came up with a few things. Seems like this would not be a good setup for a daily driver with the stock 'Q' pads that come with it. Is there a better pad that would be more daily-driveable worthy? I'm building a TDI Corrado for the wife, and have a set of the Wilwoods sitting around I want to put on it for her (and do the ABS delete). She drives, I'd say about 70% highway... what kind of pads should I use in the Wilwood calipers for it?

Or should I even bother putting the Wilwoods on? I plan on building a fun weekend/track Mk1 after next deployment, and I'd just wind up buying another set of Wilwoods for that more than likely... should I just wait and put it on that?

Basically... I guess the question is, who's running Wilwood front calipers on their DD Corrado (if there is such a thing)?


----------



## rochavr6 (Jan 20, 2010)

rochavr6 said:


> I have two quick questions. I'm still working on getting my corrado back on the road and decided to delete de carbon canister. As you can see on the pics, I put a filter on the line coming from the fuel tank, plugged the opening on the intake manifold and then looped the check valve. I have two quick questions about the delete.
> 
> 1. Judging by the pictures, does the setup look correct?
> 2. Is the check valve suppose to be ticking all the time?
> ...


:wave:


----------



## Norvel (Nov 15, 2011)

*Check Engine Light 1991 Corrado g60*

What would stop the check engine light from turning on when I turn the key?
Could it be a computer problem? Wiring? Why would the first two lights in the cluster turn on but not the check engine light? give me a call. Also send me a private message with your number if you have that part for sale.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

rochavr6 said:


> I have two quick questions. I'm still working on getting my corrado back on the road and decided to delete de carbon canister. As you can see on the pics, I put a filter on the line coming from the fuel tank, plugged the opening on the intake manifold and then looped the check valve. I have two quick questions about the delete.
> 
> 1. Judging by the pictures, does the setup look correct?
> 2. Is the check valve suppose to be ticking all the time?
> ...


Looks right to me. Check Valve is probably bad. Try finding the resistance values and make a resistor for it.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Norvel said:


> What would stop the check engine light from turning on when I turn the key?
> Could it be a computer problem? Wiring? Why would the first two lights in the cluster turn on but not the check engine light? give me a call. Also send me a private message with your number if you have that part for sale.


Check the bulb. Bet you it was pulled. 

Pull the light out of the dash, and open it up.


----------



## Norvel (Nov 15, 2011)

*Should it be re soldered?*

I did. Had some guy at a VW shop test it. He said there was nothing wrong. Told me to bring the car so they can take a look at it. Could he be trying to extort money out of me?


----------



## VAN CAN (Jul 4, 2010)

are there rear abs sensors on corrado?


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

nu2dubbing said:


> How are you guys mounting europlates to your euro bumpers? Thanks Sean


There are many ways, try magnets on the backside of the skin and on the back of the plate for a clean and easily removable solution.


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

VAN CAN said:


> are there rear abs sensors on corrado?


yes


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Norvel said:


> I did. Had some guy at a VW shop test it. He said there was nothing wrong. Told me to bring the car so they can take a look at it. Could he be trying to extort money out of me?


See.....TEST IT YOURSELF or pay money to maintain it. If there is a broken wire that needs to be soldered, then NO THE LIGHT WILL NOT WORK until that is figured out. 

Impossible to diagnose this one over the internet.


----------



## Norvel (Nov 15, 2011)

I tested it myself same shop, All the lights work. I took the dashboard apart. I might have disconnected something. Thanks for your help. My question I never asked was this. 
Is it possible the ECU is Fdup and no working? Answer three people gave me at the shop, "No, if the cluster is receiving power for the brake and abs than everything is running fine, check the wires."
I looked under the dash and pulled a red wire hanging by itself. which made me realize the last time I took the dash apart there were some peeled wires that were twisted together in a very unprofessional manner. thanks.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Norvel said:


> I tested it myself same shop, All the lights work. I took the dashboard apart. I might have disconnected something. Thanks for your help. My question I never asked was this.
> Is it possible the ECU is Fdup and no working? Answer three people gave me at the shop, "No, if the cluster is receiving power for the brake and abs than everything is running fine, check the wires."
> I looked under the dash and pulled a red wire hanging by itself. which made me realize the last time I took the dash apart there were some peeled wires that were twisted together in a very unprofessional manner. thanks.


Wait....so is it fixed? I cannot tell by the warblegarble you posted. :laugh:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

g60301 said:


> How about the 93' gauge cluster in my 90 g60? Interchangeable? Does it have the plug on the back for the vacum?


Some do some don't. You need the matching cluster harness and will need to wire up the VSS. Which means you need a vss in the trans.


----------



## VAN CAN (Jul 4, 2010)

would these fit with some fender work?

*17x9+39
17x9.5+39*

tire suggestion?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Do you know of the 1010 Offset calculator?

Enter your current width and et, and break out the tape measure. 

And also...with the last 16x10 thread, we are not kidding about 17x9's being the stupidest wide you can really pull off on cut and rolled rear fenders. You want 9.5 or tens on the rear, stick with 16's. 

I know a local Corrado with 17x10's and he is poking so much and is running a 235/40 and it looks horrible. 17x9 ET35 was barely clearing the rear coil by a few mm. 9.5 ET39 sure as hell will hit the coil so a spacer will lower that et into the 20's, and will rub the front rear arch like a mofo. Stretched tires are the only way to assure clearance as well. After a spacer it may barely clear, but my 9et22 if it were a 1/2 inch wider (Barrel Side) would be an et 28 or so. Meaning if you can clear the coil with a 10mm spacer, your 9.5 will have as much wheel poke as my 9 et 22. (Math mind f**ked a lot of people right there.) Plus trying to run a 215/40 on there will be less stretch than a 205, but more sidewall resulting in fubared fenders even of cut and rolled. Running 205's will be your only option. 

No more "will it fit" wheel threads or questions for a month. I figured out the math using the calculator and the Wheels/fenders/Moms Horoscope thread. Anyone who can collect the data on ET and Size can figure out what fits and what does not.


----------



## girdwood (Mar 10, 2004)

No ideas on the Wilwood question?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

VAN CAN said:


> would these fit with some fender work?
> 
> *17x9+39
> 17x9.5+39*
> ...


^^Holy damn, I love those Autostrada Modenas  :thumbup:
I seriously hate you ...............

One of my 10 best Corrado wheels ever :thumbup: :thumbup:


Are those 5x100 or 5x114 tho?


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

Purchasing coilovers and wanted to know what else is recommended for replacement as well for suspension? Car is stock 93 vr suspension. Thanks in advance!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> Purchasing coilovers and wanted to know what else is recommended for replacement as well for suspension? Car is stock 93 vr suspension. Thanks in advance!


all bushings


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

g60301 said:


> How about the 93' gauge cluster in my 90 g60? Interchangeable? Does it have the plug on the back for the vacum?



Why do you want a '93 cluster? There is a good thread by sdezego about swapping newer clusters into early G60's. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3078876-The-unofficial-Cluster-Swap-thread


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> Purchasing coilovers and wanted to know what else is recommended for replacement as well for suspension? Car is stock 93 vr suspension. Thanks in advance!


At least the upper strut bearings/mounts. 
http://www.fourseasontuning.com/product.php?id=61&product_code=357498331


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

*Suspension*



dogger said:


> At least the upper strut bearings/mounts.
> http://www.fourseasontuning.com/product.php?id=61&product_code=357498331





Sr. Karmann said:


> all bushings


Thanks for the info guys. I will definitely be getting the upper strut bearings/mounts. What would be a check list of things to replace if I wanted to go all out? I want to make sure all components are sound. I saw this http://www.fourseasontuning.com/index.php?product=138&product_code=22-2009. Is this something worth while? I do not know much about suspension obviously:banghead: Once again thanks for the help!


----------



## VAN CAN (Jul 4, 2010)

the car is being parted out and the abs module has been exposed to the elements (frost,rain). is it worth it? seller says its working but how can you tell? is there a way to test the unit before I fork over the cash? thanks for the help!


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> I saw this http://www.fourseasontuning.com/index.php?product=138&product_code=22-2009. Is this something worth while? I do not know much about suspension obviously:banghead: Once again thanks for the help!


Personally, I wouldn't go poly on a daily/road used Corrado...




CorradoLook'N21 said:


> What would be a check list of things to replace if I wanted to go all out? I want to make sure all components are sound.


Besides the top mount/bearing kit already mentioned I would replace:
Control arm bushings (TT/R32 spec)
Ball joints
tie rods and/or ends 
rear beam axle bushings
sway bar bushings

...for a start


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

Rear beam axle bushings I would not suggest. They almost never need to be replaced. Plus its not an easy job to do them.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> Thanks for the info guys. I will definitely be getting the upper strut bearings/mounts. What would be a check list of things to replace if I wanted to go all out? I want to make sure all components are sound. I saw this http://www.fourseasontuning.com/index.php?product=138&product_code=22-2009. Is this something worth while? I do not know much about suspension obviously:banghead: Once again thanks for the help!


Answered by Nik :thumbup:



VAN CAN said:


> the car is being parted out and the abs module has been exposed to the elements (frost,rain). is it worth it? seller says its working but how can you tell? is there a way to test the unit before I fork over the cash? thanks for the help!


Not without being hooked up to a battery source, would prove rather difficult



RedYellowWhite said:


> Personally, I wouldn't go poly on a daily/road used Corrado...
> Besides the top mount/bearing kit already mentioned I would replace:
> Control arm bushings (TT/R32 spec)
> Ball joints
> ...


^this :thumbup:



dogger said:


> Rear beam axle bushings I would not suggest. They almost never need to be replaced. Plus its not an easy job to do them.


:thumbup:


----------



## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> all bushings





Sr. Karmann said:


> Answered by Nik :thumbup:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Wow thanks for all the help guys. I am excited to get this done and reap the reward


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> Wow thanks for all the help guys. I am excited to get this done and reap the reward


:thumbup:


----------



## DUBBALO (Jan 9, 2009)

ok im not new to the forum but i had a few questions about obd1 and obd2 vr6 motors in a corrado.
I am lookin at a slc with a snapped timing chain, (ruined motor) and i have a vr6 out of a 97 jetta, i know the jetta motor is a obd2 and the corrado motor is obd1, so if i put the obd2 motor in the corrado what all would i need to get it goin? Wiring harness? ECU? whatever else? and what exactly am i looking at here, do i have to get the jetta ecu, harness, and hack into the harness so it works for the corrado? how much work am i looking at as far as installing the new harness if need be? thanks in advance


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

hey i have a good working abs unit. spent its time inside! let me know.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

DUBBALO said:


> ok im not new to the forum but i had a few questions about obd1 and obd2 vr6 motors in a corrado.
> I am lookin at a slc with a snapped timing chain, (ruined motor) and i have a vr6 out of a 97 jetta, i know the jetta motor is a obd2 and the corrado motor is obd1, so if i put the obd2 motor in the corrado what all would i need to get it goin? Wiring harness? ECU? whatever else? and what exactly am i looking at here, do i have to get the jetta ecu, harness, and hack into the harness so it works for the corrado? how much work am i looking at as far as installing the new harness if need be? thanks in advance


Wrong harness, Correct harness to use is a 96-97 Passat VR6 Harness. 

Oh, and if you wanted a VR6 Corrado, you should have bought one. Have fun spending Thousands more than it would have took you to buy a VR6 SLC in the first place!


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Untill I get some spare time to figure out why my ignitor (blue alternator wire) is not working (i have to rev car up to 4grand to get it to kick in. I was wondering if I could just wire it to a toggle switch, that way I dont have to rev the car up everytime in get in it. Opinions? Hope this makes sense to you guys:beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

g60301 said:


> Untill I get some spare time to figure out why my ignitor (blue alternator wire) is not working (i have to rev car up to 4grand to get it to kick in. I was wondering if I could just wire it to a toggle switch, that way I dont have to rev the car up everytime in get in it. Opinions? Hope this makes sense to you guys:beer:


I hope you have a big ass battery :wave:


----------



## DUBBALO (Jan 9, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Wrong harness, Correct harness to use is a 96-97 Passat VR6 Harness.
> 
> Oh, and if you wanted a VR6 Corrado, you should have bought one. Have fun spending Thousands more than it would have took you to buy a VR6 SLC in the first place!


if u read properly u would know that it is a vr6 corrado and im asking about putting a obd2 vr6 in it.. but thanks for your "input" :screwy:


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

DUBBALO said:


> if u read properly u would know that it is a vr6 corrado and im asking about putting a obd2 vr6 in it.. but thanks for your "input" :screwy:


 Depending on the year of the Corrado you have there are several things you need to do. Listed here is the cheapest, and easisest way to get it done IMO. 

If it's a coilpack car, then the long block will swap right in. No need to go OBDII. 

If your Corrado has a Distributor, you will need the upper timing cover, cam gears, intermediate shaft gear, and distributor drive from your old engine. As well as a new double row timing chain kit. The '97 has a single row upper chain which will not work with your distributor setup. You will also need a plug for the SAI port in the head. Again, no need to go OBDII.


----------



## vag_crazy (Mar 7, 2007)

*Radiator question*

Im new to corrados I have a 92 SLC and my radiator is leaking, a friend has a G60 radiator for spare, does it fit? does it have the same capacity? shape seems to be the same.

thanks for ur answer


----------



## eavalos15 (Oct 9, 2011)

*corrado wont start*

yesterday i turn on just fine but today when i was going to turn it on nothing happen . When I say nothing it is absolutely nothing. Engine does not even try to turn. I though it was the battery but everything electrical works sun roof, lights, windows, etc. What can it be?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

eavalos15 said:


> yesterday i turn on just fine but today when i was going to turn it on nothing happen . When I say nothing it is absolutely nothing. Engine does not even try to turn. I though it was the battery but everything electrical works sun roof, lights, windows, etc. What can it be?


Ignition switch???


----------



## deemee (Aug 7, 2011)

deemee said:


> Ok so My 92 slc currently will not start. I recently picked up this car that as been dormant for several years and took it to a mechanic. He told me all I needed was a new fuel pump and go it running again for about 3 weeks.
> 
> Since then I took care of a couple of maintenance things such as: new coolant g12++, low temp thermostat and switch, spark plugs, distributor cap, oil change. Now that car will not start and the Aux water pump is buzzing when the key is turned on.
> 
> Any suggestions?





rochavr6 said:


> You have to check what you're misssing, dou you have fuel going to the rail? Do you have spark out of your ignition coil? There are many things to check when the car doesn't want to start, fuel pump (even if was just replaced), clogged fuel filter, fuel pump relay, ecu relay, ignition coil, distributor, computer, sensors, etc...


so i have tested the ecu and fuel pump relays and they still work, i get spark at the plugs and fuel to the rail and still no turn over just cranks, sounds very close to starting. Could the ignition coil be bad even thou i get a spark? and could a bad ignition switch cause this problem? And yes i plan on getting a Bentley...


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

DUBBALO said:


> if u read properly u would know that it is a vr6 corrado and im asking about putting a obd2 vr6 in it.. but thanks for your "input" :screwy:


LOL Clown. I read that and the other thread you started just fine. 

Again, had you searched for any information on an OBD2 Swap, the correct harness for OBD2 swapping a Corrado is a Passat Harness.


----------



## eavalos15 (Oct 9, 2011)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Ignition switch???


I just check the ignition switch so so its the starter. Is it not getting enough power or it already gave up or did something got disconnected? that is the question now...


----------



## eavalos15 (Oct 9, 2011)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Ignition switch???


I just check the ignition switch so so its the starter. Is it not getting enough power or it already gave up or did something got disconnected? that is the question now...


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

eavalos15 said:


> I just check the ignition switch so so its the starter. Is it not getting enough power or it already gave up or did something got disconnected? that is the question now...


If you have 91+ rado. There few things to check out. Terminal 50 goes from ignition switch to the alarm control module then starter. A bad switch or faulty acm will not send 50 power at starter. If you have power at starter switch(50) when cranking. Check the power and ground cables for corrosion and no lose connection. Lastly get remote start switch or jumper wire to starter switch solenoid to battery+ post. It should start, if no, need a starter.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

vag_crazy said:


> Im new to corrados I have a 92 SLC and my radiator is leaking, a friend has a G60 radiator for spare, does it fit? does it have the same capacity? shape seems to be the same.
> 
> thanks for ur answer


Does not fit without modifications. 

Check out Godspeed and PWR(Which will also require trimming) Or purchase a VR6 Radiator.


----------



## vag_crazy (Mar 7, 2007)

DUBZAK said:


> Does not fit without modifications.
> 
> Check out Godspeed and PWR(Which will also require trimming) Or purchase a VR6 Radiator.



:thumbup:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Will an upgraded cam on a G60 affect/lower boost readings just like a p&p head will?

Thanks


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Will an upgraded cam on a G60 affect/lower boost readings just like a p&p head will?
> 
> Thanks


Interesting. 

In relation you would think so due to longer duration, but would think otherwise since volume is still the same.


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

I have a set of 3 piece HRE wheels. If I wanted to make them wider, do I need HRE specific barrels and lips or do any 40 bolt barrels and lips work? The reason I ask is HRE won't sell individual barrels or lips and they'd probably charge an arm and a leg for the set to be refinished by them. Also do any split wheel bolts work in assembling them?

Sorry if these are total newb questions. I've never had 3 piece splits before and I'm curious the cost of making them a bit wider. The wheels know are 17x7.5 et30 and the barrels are 6.5 inches and the lips are 1 inch.

Assuming that any barrel and lip would work, is there a combination that'll allow me to run an 8.5 inch wide wheel with stock VR6 fenders?

Thanks dudes.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

iAco said:


> I have a set of 3 piece HRE wheels. If I wanted to make them wider, do I need HRE specific barrels and lips or do any 40 bolt barrels and lips work? The reason I ask is HRE won't sell individual barrels or lips and they'd probably charge an arm and a leg for the set to be refinished by them. Also do any split wheel bolts work in assembling them?
> 
> Sorry if these are total newb questions. I've never had 3 piece splits before and I'm curious the cost of making them a bit wider. The wheels know are 17x7.5 et30 and the barrels are 6.5 inches and the lips are 1 inch.
> 
> ...


Technically speaking any lip/barrel will work. You may want to contact Kodiak wheels and see if they can hook you up with lips and barrels. Really surprised HRE won't sell individual lips or even a pair.

You can re-use the bolts that come with the wheels. Not just any 3 piece wheel bolts will work. You will want to pay attention to length of the bolt as not all are the same.

Can you post up the offset the wheels currently are? It would be easier to Math it out if I had all the variables


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

TheBurninator said:


> Technically speaking any lip/barrel will work. You may want to contact Kodiak wheels and see if they can hook you up with lips and barrels. Really surprised HRE won't sell individual lips or even a pair.


I'll contact Kodiak and see what they say. HRE said they don't encourage customers taking apart the wheels to repair them and they won't sell individual lips or barrels whether they are for replacing a bent one or to change the width or offset of the wheel.




TheBurninator said:


> You can re-use the bolts that come with the wheels. Not just any 3 piece wheel bolts will work. You will want to pay attention to length of the bolt as not all are the same.


That's what I meant, getting the same size bolts that HRE uses since like the lips and barrels they won't sell individually.



TheBurninator said:


> Can you post up the offset the wheels currently are? It would be easier to Math it out if I had all the variables


The wheels currently sit at 17x7.5 et30.
Inner barrels 6.5 inches
Outer lips 1 inch


----------



## corradojesus (Mar 6, 2002)

iAco said:


> I'll contact Kodiak and see what they say. HRE said they don't encourage customers taking apart the wheels to repair them and they won't sell individual lips or barrels whether they are for replacing a bent one or to change the width or offset of the wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Are you taking the face into account? I'm not sure about HRE's but RS's have a 0.5" face.
So on an 7.5" wheel that has a 1" lip your barrel will only be 6". Are you sure that your 1" lips aren't in fact 0.5" reverse lips?


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

Golfatron3 said:


> Are you taking the face into account? I'm not sure about HRE's but RS's have a 0.5" face.
> So on an 7.5" wheel that has a 1" lip your barrel will only be 6". Are you sure that your 1" lips aren't in fact 0.5" reverse lips?


Thats something I haven't thought about. From my communication with HRE they gave me the following information on the wheels:

540S –
Built to fit a Volkswagen Golf GTI III 1995
Front & Rear Fitment @
17x7.5 ET 30 RIMS 6.5” Inner w/1.0” Outer
Full Polish Finish @ Centers & Outers.


----------



## corradojesus (Mar 6, 2002)

iAco said:


> Thats something I haven't thought about. From my communication with HRE they gave me the following information on the wheels:
> 
> 540S –
> Built to fit a Volkswagen Golf GTI III 1995
> ...


I'm assuming you haven't taken them apart yet, then?
I'll try to do some digging to see what I can figure out for you but I'm not the most familiar with HRE's.

Assuming those specs are correct, you should be able to run a 2" lip in the rear no problem. It would bring the ET down to about ~17, which would fit fairly close to flush with stock VR fenders. You should also be able to pull off a 7" barrel and 1.5" lip in the front, although I would double check how close to your coilover the barrel is sitting now.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Golfatron3 said:


> Are you taking the face into account? I'm not sure about HRE's but RS's have a 0.5" face.
> So on an 7.5" wheel that has a 1" lip your barrel will only be 6". Are you sure that your 1" lips aren't in fact 0.5" reverse lips?


The faces mount on top of the lips with those wheels. No need to take the face into account. 

That really sucks that HRE is a bitch about selling spare parts.


----------



## corradojesus (Mar 6, 2002)

TheBurninator said:


> The faces mount on top of the lips with those wheels. No need to take the face into account.


ya I was just about to post this. :beer:


----------



## FlatlanderSJ (Oct 4, 2007)

anyone know if Cabrio belts would fit into a corrado? They look really similar other than the pyrotechnic tensoners(can these be removed?). These would be nice because they are beige and would match my interior nicely, plus the seat belt rails are chrome. I already have eurobelts but I'm looking to change things up a bit.


----------



## Cap0 (Apr 18, 2006)

*Hi-beam*

My hi-beam light (little blue light on the dash instument cluster) is constantly on.  Hi and low-beams work just fine on the actual headlamp but the light wont go off no matter what I do. My foglights also do not work. I read somewhere that the foglights will not work when the hi-beams are on. Is this true and if that's the case, can this little blue light be the culprit for the fogs? :screwy: 93 SLC
Any thoughts?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Cap0 said:


> My hi-beam light (little blue light on the dash instument cluster) is constantly on.  Hi and low-beams work just fine on the actual headlamp but the light wont go off no matter what I do. My foglights also do not work. I read somewhere that the foglights will not work when the hi-beams are on. Is this true and if that's the case, can this little blue light be the culprit for the fogs? :screwy: 93 SLC
> Any thoughts?


Check the relay


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

FlatlanderSJ said:


> anyone know if Cabrio belts would fit into a corrado? They look really similar other than the pyrotechnic tensoners(can these be removed?) *Not without risk of explosion*. These would be nice because they are beige and would match my interior nicely, plus the seat belt rails are chrome. I already have eurobelts but I'm looking to change things up a bit.


Pretty much no, unless you figure out how to swap the actual belt to the Corrado reel. 

And does the Cabrio mount the belt in the same way on a bar? If not your fahked there too.


----------



## FlatlanderSJ (Oct 4, 2007)

DUBZAK said:


> does the Cabrio mount the belt in the same way on a bar? If not your fahked there too.


yea they do mount on a bar thats what gave me some hope but I just thought about the rear belts and I dont think they would work. The Cabrio doesn't have the c-pillar mount and I'm not sure 
I can slip the belt into the current buckles without cutting the webbing.


----------



## chrisd1891 (Feb 8, 2009)

Hey guys, 

So the switch in my door latch is dead, and it's causing a battery drain and the auto seatbelt on the driver's side to go back and forth erratically. So I took off the latch, and then was trying to get at the switch inside of it. Eventually I'm going to have to replace the switch, but a different problem came up. When I put the latch back on I'm now unable to lock the door. The door lock will go about halfway down when I lock the door using my key, and will then be locked, and when I go to unlock it it won't unlock and I need to take the latch off and manually do it, even if I pull the lock back up from the inside, it stays locked. Any ideas? Could I have broken something in the process or reassembled it wrong?

edit- the striker doesn't look to be broken, I can see it come down when I pull the door handle with the latch off


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

chrisd1891 said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> So the switch in my door latch is dead, and it's causing a battery drain and the auto seatbelt on the driver's side to go back and forth erratically. So I took off the latch, and then was trying to get at the switch inside of it. Eventually I'm going to have to replace the switch, but a different problem came up. When I put the latch back on I'm now unable to lock the door.
> edit- the striker doesn't look to be broken, I can see it come down when I pull the door handle with the latch off


I don't think you broke something, but you did put it back together incorrectly. I would say, take it apart again and as you work it all back together, test the motion of the lock mechanisms as you go. Good luck.

I also stripped out the motors for the auto seatbelts and locked them in the full back position. The power seatbelts are terribly failure prone.


----------



## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

Alright, unless someone has a mk2 non AC box for me, keep reading.
Other than the 2 big holes filled on the sidewall (welded whatever), what else can or should be done inside or outside to simply not out any air box behind the dash?
This can give some nice options for the dash as well, gauges etc.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

NYCGTM said:


> Alright, unless someone has a mk2 non AC box for me, keep reading.
> Other than the 2 big holes filled on the sidewall (welded whatever), what else can or should be done inside or outside to simply not out any air box behind the dash?
> This can give some nice options for the dash as well, gauges etc.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

NYCGTM said:


> Alright, unless someone has a mk2 non AC box for me, keep reading.
> Other than the 2 big holes filled on the sidewall (welded whatever), what else can or should be done inside or outside to simply not out any air box behind the dash?
> This can give some nice options for the dash as well, gauges etc.


Actually I have a Non AC MK2 Box here at the shop. 

The Blower vent would be the only other way to get air inside. :beer:


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

So I'm replacing the oil temp. sender and I noticed there are two different styles. If I have this style of sender:








Can I switch to this style as long as I change the connector?








Please let me know.  :thumbup:

Thanks,

David


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Broke my antenna washing the car the other day. Where can I get a new base for it?


----------



## germs dub (May 31, 2007)

*missing a bolt*

Can anyone help me identify this missing bolt? Shot from the bottom facing up under the right side in front of the wheel area...not sure what that cross bar is called but I believe it supports the engine, and missing it can't be good. Please advise. Thanks.


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Thats a front subframe bolt. 

If that is the case, that bad boy should be parked while you support the k frame with a jack stand and remove the other one and get a matching one from McMaster or another retailer. Then replace it and make sure the proper torque is applied.


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

krazy4dubz said:


> Can I switch to this style as long as I change the connector?


My gut says that if you change, the cluster MFA will not be able to communicate with it. Soemone else can refute my hypothesis. I would stick with the ones that we know work. They are available at GermanAutoparts.com


----------



## germs dub (May 31, 2007)

TheLateJetta said:


> Thats a front subframe bolt.
> 
> If that is the case, that bad boy should be parked while you support the k frame with a jack stand and remove the other one and get a matching one from McMaster or another retailer. Then replace it and make sure the proper torque is applied.


Thanks bro, now that I have a name, I'll try to find it in the bently for bolt specs and torque!


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

germs dub said:


> Can anyone help me identify this missing bolt? Shot from the bottom facing up under the right side in front of the wheel area...not sure what that cross bar is called but I believe it supports the engine, and missing it can't be good. Please advise. Thanks.


M10X73 Bolt Part number N 90305901. I would almost be willing to bet the reason it's missing is because a PO was removing it, it snapped off in there, and they didn't bother to fix it. That bolt actually threads into the front bumper bracket so if it is boken off in there you can get at it by pulling the front bumper. The smaller bolt in the middle will hold the cross member in place while you work on things, but a jack for safety is always a good idea. Also, never try to drive it like that!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

krazy4dubz said:


> So I'm replacing the oil temp. sender and I noticed there are two different styles. If I have this style of sender:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


as long as the values are the same it will work, FYI, it uses the same connector, just slides on the side vs the top



g60301 said:


> Broke my antenna washing the car the other day. Where can I get a new base for it?


Corrado classifieds, dealer, 1stvwparts.com, google shopping


----------



## germs dub (May 31, 2007)

NoCYet said:


> M10X73 Bolt Part number N 90305901. I would almost be willing to bet the reason it's missing is because a PO was removing it, it snapped off in there, and they didn't bother to fix it. That bolt actually threads into the front bumper bracket so if it is boken off in there you can get at it by pulling the front bumper. The smaller bolt in the middle will hold the cross member in place while you work on things, but a jack for safety is always a good idea. Also, never try to drive it like that!


Yup, changed the oil, and the hole just seemed odd when I noticed it. So now I'm doing a full rectal on the underbelly to check for oddities. The bolt doesn't seem to have broken off as I can see the threaded part on the bumper bracket. Thanks again for the feedback gents, stand up bunch


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

Sr. Karmann said:


> as long as the values are the same it will work, FYI, it uses the same connector, just slides on the side vs the top
> 
> 
> 
> Corrado classifieds, dealer, 1stvwparts.com, google shopping


Great, thank you.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

TheLateJetta said:


> Thats a front subframe bolt.


Bumper support bolt actually, subframe bolts are the smaller one in the middle. Do not sweat the subframe falling out. :thumbup:


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## Ktor (Jun 30, 2011)

Hey guys!
I am thinking about polishing my intake manifold on a 1.8 16v Corrado.
I just wanted to ask, considering I'm not a mechanic, but no stranger to tools, taking apart and putting stuff back together, is there anything that I should pay special attention to, anything that is likely to go wrong while taking that manifold of?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

krazy4dubz said:


> Great, thank you.


:thumbup:



Ktor said:


> Hey guys!
> I am thinking about polishing my intake manifold on a 1.8 16v Corrado.
> I just wanted to ask, considering I'm not a mechanic, but no stranger to tools, taking apart and putting stuff back together, is there anything that I should pay special attention to, anything that is likely to go wrong while taking that manifold of?


Be careful with the injector cups and be ready to keep polishing...


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## wed3k (Feb 22, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Bumper support bolt actually, subframe bolts are the smaller one in the middle. Do not sweat the subframe falling out. :thumbup:


yea had the subframe almost crush my head, twice, on the same side, on the same car. quickly learned my lesson.


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

what are the symptoms of a ignition coil going bad on a G60?


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## Cap0 (Apr 18, 2006)

TheBurninator said:


> Check the relay


so, relays and fuses are fine. Has to be the switch(button) because it doesn't light up when pressed as does the rear window defogger. Off to find a new one.
Although I am still confused about the hi-beam light staying on


----------



## eavalos15 (Oct 9, 2011)

*g60 shutting down*

So everything was working right i could even say perfect but after some hours the car just shut down.:facepalm: When I started again the rev counter was going nuts and could not take my foot from the accelerator because it would shut down again. Then i kept trying more and more to see if i could get it stabilize but no luck. Battery died too... I think i wasted it by by trying to turn it on. At the end it was towed. I think this is an electrical problem but i don't know what it is exactly. While inspecting i notices that my hose was disconnected in the intercooler so all the dirty air was going directly to my engine so im thinking it could be the injectors, valves or spark plugs that got dirty. what do you guys think?


----------



## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

*Coolant & Heating Issue*

I've only had my G60 for about a month now and still going through everything just trying to get an ok running dub. It was running and driving when I bought it. 115K on it and it's stock. Last week I decided to install a new heater core that was bypassed. Installed it and the heat was barely warm. The coolant temp was reading around 170 when warmed up and driving so I decided to install a more winter friendly thermostat. After it was in it seemed like the car was taking an endless amount of coolant and later down the road the coolant warning light was blinking. Now when I warm it up, it seems to stay around 230 degrees, it seems to run fine for about 10 minutes and then the light starts blinking and starts boiling out of the bottle and there is little to no heat coming from the vents. I was thinking air in the system, but wouldn't the coolant gauge be pinned from over heating?


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## simon_C (Oct 5, 2006)

Hi all, I'm looking at a corrado here soon. He says the charger and head were recently rebuilt (this year), but it needs fuel and brake lines. not bad really, and i know what to expect for those. 

I have owned and worked on mk2s and mk1s, and worked heavily on mk3s. is there anything i should expect in a corrado that would be any different than anything ive previously worked on? or is it still all pretty standard VW fare?

My experience is moderate to high, ive done engine swaps etc.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

twoteks said:


> I've only had my G60 for about a month now and still going through everything just trying to get an ok running dub. It was running and driving when I bought it. 115K on it and it's stock. Last week I decided to install a new heater core that was bypassed. Installed it and the heat was barely warm. The coolant temp was reading around 170 when warmed up and driving so I decided to install a more winter friendly thermostat. After it was in it seemed like the car was taking an endless amount of coolant and later down the road the coolant warning light was blinking. Now when I warm it up, it seems to stay around 230 degrees, it seems to run fine for about 10 minutes and then the light starts blinking and starts boiling out of the bottle and there is little to no heat coming from the vents. I was thinking air in the system, but wouldn't the coolant gauge be pinned from over heating?


Where did you fill the coolant?



simon_C said:


> Hi all, I'm looking at a corrado here soon. He says the charger and head were recently rebuilt (this year), but it needs fuel and brake lines. not bad really, and i know what to expect for those.
> 
> I have owned and worked on mk2s and mk1s, and worked heavily on mk3s. is there anything i should expect in a corrado that would be any different than anything ive previously worked on? or is it still all pretty standard VW fare?
> 
> My experience is moderate to high, ive done engine swaps etc.


:thumbup::thumbup:


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## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

At the reservoir.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

twoteks said:


> At the reservoir.


You probly have air in your system, fill from top rad hose. BE CAREFUL WITH RAD NECK!!! I would remove the hose from the rad neck rather than trying to remove the rad neck from the rad


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## germs dub (May 31, 2007)

i'm starting to like this thread the more I use it. 

Can anyone advise on doing a Oil pressure test? searching didn't help. buzzer and lights are going nuts, oil viscosity change to 20-50 didn't help. 

Can I still do an Oil pressure test if I have a bad sender/switch? 

thanks in advance.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

germs dub said:


> i'm starting to like this thread the more I use it.
> 
> Can anyone advise on doing a Oil pressure test? searching didn't help. buzzer and lights are going nuts, oil viscosity change to 20-50 didn't help.
> 
> ...


Yeah you just need an oil pressure gauge and sender for it. Worth it to install one anyways.

Mk1 cabby's have a factory setup. Easy to find in the JY

Did you replce your filter when you changed to 20-50? Did you use a dealer filter or aftermarket?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

twoteks said:


> At the reservoir.


Did you burp the system? Leave the cap off and fill it. Let the car warm up with the cap off. Keep filling it until it won't take anymore coolant. Put the cap on and you are good to go.


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## germs dub (May 31, 2007)

TheBurninator said:


> Yeah you just need an oil pressure gauge and sender for it. Worth it to install one anyways.
> 
> Mk1 cabby's have a factory setup. Easy to find in the JY
> 
> Did you replce your filter when you changed to 20-50? Did you use a dealer filter or aftermarket?


Went from a recently changed Mann to mobil 1 extended performance ($12 bucks )

I'm going to replace the cluster, if prob continues, I'll try the pressure test. Thanks!


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

germs dub said:


> Went from a recently changed Mann to mobil 1 extended performance ($12 bucks )
> 
> I'm going to replace the cluster, if prob continues, I'll try the pressure test. Thanks!


I would stick with the Mann filter. Much better than a mobil 1 filter.

Don't bother with the cluster. It probably isn't the issue. If you are having low oil pressure I would look at the oil pump as the problem next.


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## germs dub (May 31, 2007)

TheBurninator said:


> I would stick with the Mann filter. Much better than a mobil 1 filter.
> 
> Don't bother with the cluster. It probably isn't the issue. If you are having low oil pressure I would look at the oil pump as the problem next.


plan on going back to mann, much cheaper and more suitable, but not until I at least put 1000 miles on it. 

Found the issue, the sender on top of the Oil filter had the wire corroded and cut. Respliced and attached. Thanks guys.

Given that im on a roll...here's another for the savvy.... savvy? 

I've been troubleshooting my speedometer/tachomoter/odometer for a bit. Tore apart two different clusters, not the problem. Attached, disconnected, reattached, and checked speedo cable. G2G. 

Happened to glance at the transmission connection where the speedo cable goes, and that looks very corroded. What is the name of that sender/switch, where the speedo connects to the tranny? And where can I buy a new one? Don't see it on GAP. thanks.


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## eavalos15 (Oct 9, 2011)

*hard starting/ not turning on*

So everything was working right i could even say perfect but after some hours the car just shut down. When I started again the rev counter was going nuts and could not take my foot from the accelerator because it would shut down again. Then i kept trying more and more to see if i could get it stabilize but no luck. Battery died too... I think i wasted it by by trying to turn it on. At the end it was towed. I think this is an electrical problem but i don't know what it is exactly. While inspecting i notices that my hose was disconnected in the intercooler so all the dirty air was going directly to my engine so im thinking it could be the injectors, valves or spark plugs that got dirty. what do you guys think?


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## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

eavalos15 said:


> So everything was working right i could even say perfect but after some hours the car just shut down. When I started again the rev counter was going nuts and could not take my foot from the accelerator because it would shut down again. Then i kept trying more and more to see if i could get it stabilize but no luck. Battery died too... I think i wasted it by by trying to turn it on. At the end it was towed. I think this is an electrical problem but i don't know what it is exactly. While inspecting i notices that my hose was disconnected in the intercooler so all the dirty air was going directly to my engine so im thinking it could be the injectors, valves or spark plugs that got dirty. what do you guys think?



Have you tried reconnecting the hose, and starting it up?


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## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

TheBurninator said:


> Did you burp the system? Leave the cap off and fill it. Let the car warm up with the cap off. Keep filling it until it won't take anymore coolant. Put the cap on and you are good to go.


If it keeps boiling over is that just the air escaping? Should I just let it go until it stabilizes?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

germs dub said:


> plan on going back to mann, much cheaper and more suitable, but not until I at least put 1000 miles on it.
> 
> Found the issue, the sender on top of the Oil filter had the wire corroded and cut. Respliced and attached. Thanks guys.
> 
> ...


Glad you got the oil pressure stuff sorted.

The VSS is what you are looking for on the trans.
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Transmission/194


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## germs dub (May 31, 2007)

TheBurninator said:


> Glad you got the oil pressure stuff sorted.
> 
> The VSS is what you are looking for on the trans.
> http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Transmission/194


Thanks man, the crazy norwegian guy sorted me out. Its a mechanical speedo, GAP doesn't carry the part apparently.


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

twoteks said:


> If it keeps boiling over is that just the air escaping? Should I just let it go until it stabilizes?


When last time replace coolant cap, coolant cap will cause to boil out if it can't hold pressure or can't release the pressure. Also, if boil out less 5 minutes of warming up from cold, could have head gasket issue. Just make there no air pockets in the system. I would fill the cooling system from upper radiator hose 1st with engine off, once you fill up from there, attach the hose again, fill the coolant bottle while massaging upper coolant hose, then it run with cap off, still massaging the upper hose until can't fill coolant system. Put good "new" coolant cap. Let it run for 5 minutes and see what happen. If it has rapid pressure build up. You have a problem. A coolant vacuum bleeder is best system to fill and avoid air pockets.:thumbup:


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## eavalos15 (Oct 9, 2011)

NoCYet said:


> Have you tried reconnecting the hose, and starting it up?


yes all the air intake system is connected but i still have the problem.


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## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

What is the relay underneath the DS rear doorcard? Seems to go off when I start the car.

early 1990 g60.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

skaterhernandez4 said:


> What is the relay underneath the DS rear doorcard? Seems to go off when I start the car.
> 
> early 1990 g60.


seat belt relays


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## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

TheBurninator said:


> seat belt relays


Do they potentially drain the battery?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

skaterhernandez4 said:


> Do they potentially drain the battery?


YES, pull the relays and 10a fuses


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## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

chc-rado said:


> When last time replace coolant cap, coolant cap will cause to boil out if it can't hold pressure or can't release the pressure. Also, if boil out less 5 minutes of warming up from cold, could have head gasket issue. Just make there no air pockets in the system. I would fill the cooling system from upper radiator hose 1st with engine off, once you fill up from there, attach the hose again, fill the coolant bottle while massaging upper coolant hose, then it run with cap off, still massaging the upper hose until can't fill coolant system. Put good "new" coolant cap. Let it run for 5 minutes and see what happen. If it has rapid pressure build up. You have a problem. A coolant vacuum bleeder is best system to fill and avoid air pockets.:thumbup:


Thanks! Went with your suggestions and everything is running much better. Heat is still not very warm but I guess some is better than none. I'll address that out down the road.


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## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

How about a clutch pedal that sticks to the floor and if I'm in gear it will sometimes start to engage.


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## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

twoteks said:


> Thanks! Went with your suggestions and everything is running much better. Heat is still not very warm but I guess some is better than none. I'll address that out down the road.


 The heat problem is probably the foam on the blend doors. Have you ever noticed small bits of black stuff coming out of your vents or on your seats or carpet?


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## divedave (Nov 9, 2008)

Is there a difference between a G60 and a VR6 lower bumper grill? (besides the 3X price :facepalm


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## vintage empire (Jan 11, 2002)

What would cause my speedometer to stop working intermittently? I had this issue a year or so ago and it seemed to correct itself but now it's back. It will work fine, I'll come to a stop at a red light and when I accelerate from the light it won't work only to start working at the next red light. 
Any suggestions on where to start trouble shooting?


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## ZackeryNM (Jun 3, 2011)

Pretty much the last thing on my list/only thing I have to ask about is MFA. It displays the mpg of 9.5 and I calculated that I am getting about 20 with all of the around town driving I have been doing lately. what would cause this to read inaccurately?


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## ZackeryNM (Jun 3, 2011)

NoCYet said:


> The heat problem is probably the foam on the blend doors. Have you ever noticed small bits of black stuff coming out of your vents or on your seats or carpet?


Hmm i thought it was from wire insulation from when I replaced the heater core. Keep talkin', i like where this is going. how would one solve the issue at the blend doors? for i also have luke warm air and need to get it fixed.


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## DubCorrado (Aug 7, 2009)

*Boost Pressurizing*

I got a 1990 Corrado Lysholm with full stage IV BBM equipment, and im only seeing about 13.5 psi at max, I should be hitting 16+psi. I was pressurizing the system and it holds pretty damn well and I had a question. When Im pressurizing it, is it necessary to pressurize it past 13.5psi to find the leak? Or if there is a leak, would it start to leak out air before I even go that high?

Hope Im making this clear enough, this has been bothering me for sometime. 

Thanks,
Mark


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## VAN CAN (Jul 4, 2010)

bbs rs vs chevlon wrd mesh?


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## maxtown (Dec 15, 2011)

*need some advice*

hey guys, i'm looking into buying a 1990 VW corrado, its in great shape and has nice rims, sound system, interior is in awesome shape and the extirior aswel. im new when it comes to VWs and this guy wants me to make him at offer. whats a reasonable price?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

vintage empire said:


> What would cause my speedometer to stop working intermittently? I had this issue a year or so ago and it seemed to correct itself but now it's back. It will work fine, I'll come to a stop at a red light and when I accelerate from the light it won't work only to start working at the next red light.
> Any suggestions on where to start trouble shooting?


Mess with your VSS sensor on your trans, I had a similar issue, twisting it around a few times worked for me. May need to be replaced, or your speedo in your cluster could be going bad.



ZackeryNM said:


> Pretty much the last thing on my list/only thing I have to ask about is MFA. It displays the mpg of 9.5 and I calculated that I am getting about 20 with all of the around town driving I have been doing lately. what would cause this to read inaccurately?


Don't trust it. 



ZackeryNM said:


> Hmm i thought it was from wire insulation from when I replaced the heater core. Keep talkin', i like where this is going. how would one solve the issue at the blend doors? for i also have luke warm air and need to get it fixed.


You need to pull your HVAC box, pull it apart and put some type of blocking material on the doors as they have a series of large circular openings in them, original foam deteriorates. There is a DIY somewhere



DubCorrado said:


> I got a 1990 Corrado Lysholm with full stage IV BBM equipment, and im only seeing about 13.5 psi at max, I should be hitting 16+psi. I was pressurizing the system and it holds pretty damn well and I had a question. When Im pressurizing it, is it necessary to pressurize it past 13.5psi to find the leak? Or if there is a leak, would it start to leak out air before I even go that high?
> 
> Hope Im making this clear enough, this has been bothering me for sometime.
> 
> ...


I would pressure test a few PSI past boost levels you are trying to achieve.



maxtown said:


> hey guys, i'm looking into buying a 1990 VW corrado, its in great shape and has nice rims, sound system, interior is in awesome shape and the extirior aswel. im new when it comes to VWs and this guy wants me to make him at offer. whats a reasonable price?


Read the FAQ, there are many considerations to take in account, mostly being how fat your wallet is.


----------



## DubCorrado (Aug 7, 2009)

Damn on a roll. Thanks a lot Sr.Karmann, will do.

Another question. If a car is producing a poor spark due to bad spark plug, spark plug wires or rotor cap, will that in turn slightly effect the psi a supercharged car will see? If a poor spark is produced, it doesnt ignite strongly, therefore doesnt spin the crankshaft well enough and thus the belt driven supercharger's psi is a little low..... Does that seem technically possible? Or am I just thinking outside the box a bit to much? :screwy::screwy::screwy:



Thanks,
Mark


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DubCorrado said:


> Damn on a roll. Thanks a lot Sr.Karmann, will do.
> 
> Another question. If a car is producing a poor spark due to bad spark plug, spark plug wires or rotor cap, will that in turn slightly effect the psi a supercharged car will see? If a poor spark is produced, it doesnt ignite strongly, therefore doesnt spin the crankshaft well enough and thus the belt driven supercharger's psi is a little low..... Does that seem technically possible? Or am I just thinking outside the box a bit to much? :screwy::screwy::screwy:
> 
> ...


It's based on rpm


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## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

ZackeryNM said:


> Hmm i thought it was from wire insulation from when I replaced the heater core. Keep talkin', i like where this is going. how would one solve the issue at the blend doors? for i also have luke warm air and need to get it fixed.


I don't think you're going to like where this is going at all... The entire HVAC box has to be removed, and taken apart to clean and re-foam the doors.

Do a google search for "Corrado blend doors" you should be able to find all the information you need.


----------



## ZackeryNM (Jun 3, 2011)

NoCYet said:


> I don't think you're going to like where this is going at all... The entire HVAC box has to be removed, and taken apart to clean and re-foam the doors.
> 
> Do a google search for "Corrado blend doors" you should be able to find all the information you need.


Wont take long, Its only a little detour, Had plans to clean everything again anyways. Thanks.


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

Looking to do a custom gauge install on my center dash piece. Does anyone know what kind of plastic it is? Any links to similar threads?


----------



## War_Dog (Nov 29, 2010)

*Dizzy to coil pack swap Question*

I had my VR6 distributor motor in a 92 Corrado machine itself to death. I found another motor for it, but it is a coil pack motor out of a 94 gti. I grabbed the ecu and the entire engine but I need to know what else is needed for the swap. I searched but had no luck... any help would be great!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

skaterhernandez4 said:


> Looking to do a custom gauge install on my center dash piece. Does anyone know what kind of plastic it is? Any links to similar threads?


ABS


----------



## RadoNoob (Jul 23, 2008)

*Starting issue*

I'm getting 12 volts from the battery, when I try to crank it all I hear is the fuel pump, and the starter with one click, it doesn't turn over or try to crank...if the alternator is bad it still should try and crank with a good battery right, and if it were the ignition switch I shouldn't here power going to the starter? Just trying to get an opinion before I start dropping cash that I don't have...also I have tried to jump start it, and nothing...thanks


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

RadoNoob said:


> I'm getting 12 volts from the battery, when I try to crank it all I hear is the fuel pump, and the starter with one click, it doesn't turn over or try to crank...if the alternator is bad it still should try and crank with a good battery right, and if it were the ignition switch I shouldn't here power going to the starter? Just trying to get an opinion before I start dropping cash that I don't have...also I have tried to jump start it, and nothing...thanks


Have you checked for spark (plugs, wires, coil)???


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## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

RadoNoob said:


> I'm getting 12 volts from the battery, when I try to crank it all I hear is the fuel pump, and the starter with one click, it doesn't turn over or try to crank...if the alternator is bad it still should try and crank with a good battery right, and if it were the ignition switch I shouldn't here power going to the starter? Just trying to get an opinion before I start dropping cash that I don't have...also I have tried to jump start it, and nothing...thanks


 Ignition switch, starter or maybe a bad ground. if you hear a "click" from the starter Then that rules out the switch, so I'd bet your starter is bad. could be a bad ground in the engine bay too.


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## sg.giffin (Jul 25, 2009)

*Timing Chain*

Okay so i got my timing chain cover off last night and i go to take the chain of the cam gears,but wow that chain is a SOB to get off and i lost my information i had stored on how to do it so i just tried walking the chain off the gears....:banghead: well i ended up spinning one of the cams... now i need to know how to fix this or what i might have damaged in doing so.. The cam that spun was the longer one the one that is closer to the windshield. I know know to use the 24mm wrench on the smaller cam and remove the bolt and gear and then the chain...

So my question is what do i do about the other gear that spun to far and is not at TDC anymore? or what happened when it spun and what do i need to worry about...

Please respond asap i will be out working on my car while waiting for a response!

Thanks all!!

:beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer: :snowcool:


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

sg.giffin said:


> Okay so i got my timing chain cover off last night and i go to take the chain of the cam gears,but wow that chain is a SOB to get off and i lost my information i had stored on how to do it so i just tried walking the chain off the gears....:banghead: well i ended up spinning one of the cams... now i need to know how to fix this or what i might have damaged in doing so.. The cam that spun was the longer one the one that is closer to the windshield. I know know to use the 24mm wrench on the smaller cam and remove the bolt and gear and then the chain...
> 
> So my question is what do i do about the other gear that spun to far and is not at TDC anymore? or what happened when it spun and what do i need to worry about...
> 
> ...


bentley book will answer your question. Also need cam alignment plate too. If don't have repair book and cam plate. Stop, don't go further and buy the book or cd and cam plate. Techtonics tuning would good place to start.


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## sg.giffin (Jul 25, 2009)

not to be a dick but i could care less what the book has to say i have the book and i would look at it if it helped.. that simply did not answer any part of my question sorry :banghead:


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## d-bot (Sep 6, 2004)

sg.giffin said:


> not to be a dick but i could care less what the book has to say i have the book and i would look at it if it helped.. that simply did not answer any part of my question sorry :banghead:


Most likely the cam didn't spin very far. Most likely to a resting position in the rotation. Just spin it back the opposite way it turned. It should be only 1/4 turn to get it back into position. Also get a cam locking plate or you are a "dick" for not listening in the first place. Good luck!


Free typos thx to iPhone.


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## sg.giffin (Jul 25, 2009)

ha i had the plates however i made them myself. i just need to spend the money and get the right thickness!


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## Cap0 (Apr 18, 2006)

Cap0 said:


> so, relays and fuses are fine. Has to be the switch(button) because it doesn't light up when pressed as does the rear window defogger. Off to find a new one.
> Although I am still confused about the hi-beam light staying on


got new switch and fogs work :thumbup: buuut fog and turn signals are switched.:banghead: I dont understand how this is possible. The fog lights which are in the turn signal housings twists and pops right out but the turn signals which are in the fog light housing do not. how do you take it out. Maybe if I add a picture it'll be easier to explain. Ill try and take one tomorrow.


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## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Pulled this out of my ecu today. Dosent look factory. Anyone have any info on this?


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

any of you experienced with camber questions?


----------



## VAN CAN (Jul 4, 2010)

can I see some (more than one) pictures of of a corrado on 16x7.5 bbs rs


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

g60301 said:


> Pulled this out of my ecu today. Dosent look factory. Anyone have any info on this?


looks like an old boost chip.
check this thread for reference. the thread is kind old. the guy mentions a "switchchip" but his was an evo-3

here is his quote



mrkrad said:


> yeah i was using a dog chip (low octane) recently, last night i swapped back to the evo-3 (5-4fm switchchip) and holy piss, my car is way way more powerful.
> After that i say screw low octane gimme all the power i can get.
> 
> 
> ...



and here is the old thread.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?734496-I-LOVE-the-G60-powah!!


----------



## solidsnake1229 (Sep 6, 2010)

RadoNoob said:


> I'm getting 12 volts from the battery, when I try to crank it all I hear is the fuel pump, and the starter with one click, it doesn't turn over or try to crank...if the alternator is bad it still should try and crank with a good battery right, and if it were the ignition switch I shouldn't here power going to the starter? Just trying to get an opinion before I start dropping cash that I don't have...also I have tried to jump start it, and nothing...thanks


It could be the alarm I had this problem in my gti


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

Can you guys tell me if there are any other control arms that are compatiable with the vr6 rado?


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

My noob question of the day... Are G60 and SLC mirrors the same?? 

Thanks,

David


----------



## VAN CAN (Jul 4, 2010)

starting to think that et26-30 is the best offset for these cars no?


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

What are you guys using to replace the insulation on the shifter cables? I want to replace them for my build and I am curious if there is anything that comes close to the stock pieces that I can buy new.


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

Tk2g60 said:


> Can you guys tell me if there are any other control arms that are compatiable with the vr6 rado?


Mk3 VR6 control arms


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

eurobred said:


> any of you experienced with camber questions?


Yes. How much clearance are you needing?
Pics will help 




krazy4dubz said:


> My noob question of the day... Are G60 and SLC mirrors the same??
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David


Yup, Mclaren F1 mirrors are standard on 16V, G60, and the VR6 Corrado.



VAN CAN said:


> starting to think that et26-30 is the best offset for these cars no?


Depends on wheel width, and specefic coil diameter. Also, brake upgrades. Measuring tape is king.


----------



## VAN CAN (Jul 4, 2010)

edit: delete comment, need sleep.


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

Is there a center cubby gauge cluster like the SLC one that fits the early dash?? I have a late one and before I modify it to fit my dash I'd like to see if they ever made one...

Happy Holidays everyone!! :snowcool:

Thanks,

David


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

DUBZAK said:


> Yes. How much clearance are you needing?
> Pics will help


figured it out! thanks!

thats pretty awesome that the rado rocks Mclaren F1 mirrors :thumbup:


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

chc-rado said:


> Mk3 VR6 control arms


:thumbup: wasn't sure if there was a difference with the passat or golf/jetta


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

krazy4dubz said:


> Is there a center cubby gauge cluster like the SLC one that fits the early dash?? I have a late one and before I modify it to fit my dash I'd like to see if they ever made one...
> 
> Happy Holidays everyone!! :snowcool:
> 
> ...


Yes they made one with oil pres. and oil temp...








_Part # should be 535 858 203 but not 100% sure on this..._


Merry Xmas


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> What are you guys using to replace the insulation on the shifter cables? I want to replace them for my build and I am curious if there is anything that comes close to the stock pieces that I can buy new.


Anyone? Its the heat sheild insulation material. Merry Christmas.


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Yes they made one with oil pres. and oil temp...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Oh right on. But they didn't make a cool one that's all inclosed with the Corrado logo like the SLC one? I'll probably just modify the SLC one.  :thumbup: Unless somebody has a early one they wanna trade.. Merry Christmas everyone!! :snowcool:

Thanks,

David


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

krazy4dubz said:


> ...But they didn't make a cool one that's all inclosed with the Corrado logo like the SLC one? ....


Negative 


...late-spec (93+) look better IMHO


----------



## madonion (May 1, 2007)

*Vr6 strut mount with early 4cyl top plate limiter*

I was wondering if it would make any difference to reuse 4cyl top plate limiters on vr6 strut mount. Should I get the vr6 top plate limiter to match the strut mount ? I believe it makes no difference but I'd like to get a second opinion. Thx


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

madonion said:


> I was wondering if it would make any difference to reuse 4cyl top plate limiters on vr6 strut mount. Should I get the vr6 top plate limiter to match the strut mount ? I believe it makes no difference but I'd like to get a second opinion. Thx


Doesn't matter

Question: What car can I get a longer throttle cable from?


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> What are you guys using to replace the insulation on the shifter cables? I want to replace them for my build and I am curious if there is anything that comes close to the stock pieces that I can buy new.


 Just google "Heat reflective tape", or "Wrap". You'll find several products you could use. It won't look the same but it'll do the job.


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Negative
> 
> 
> ...late-spec (93+) look better IMHO


Truth. 

Any DIY's on installing in a early dash and making it functional?


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

so came to my parents house for christmas. 
my wing only goes up and down with the switch i have.
since the previous owner hacked up the radio wiring harness. i know the wing wiring runs through there...

i usually keep it up and today it was..

chirp my alarm and lock the car...
couple hours later, i go outside to put something in my car, and the wing is down... 

seems like it went down on its own somehow?? has this ever happened to you??


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

NoCYet said:


> Just google "Heat reflective tape", or "Wrap". You'll find several products you could use. It won't look the same but it'll do the job.


Ok thanks. I was just seeing if anyone had come across anything that looked similar to stock. I guess I will have make something else work.


----------



## Ikedu (Mar 25, 2001)

*O2M swap w/ 3.2 24V swap*

Been a long time member and Corrado guy, just been out of the game for a while. Actually looking to get my Corrado back on the road after 9 years down in the garage on jack stands. R32 drivetrain sitting next to car.
What kind of suppliers are out there for engine mounts? I certainly have seen some of the mounts that have been made and I can fab some myself, just thought I'd see if there is anything available prefab. 
I am hoping to get this build up and running early this coming year. I am just uncertain even where it start now with parts suppliers and ability to find the right info on here anymore.
Might try the whole awd swap if I can source the synchro mount parts from Europe. That is kinda the undecided part at this time.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

krazy4dubz said:


> Truth.
> 
> Any DIY's on installing in a early dash and making it functional?


I've seen it done before but sorry no DIYs


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

what size are the door speakers in our cars?


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

eurobred said:


> what size are the door speakers in our cars?


5.25.  :thumbup:


----------



## eavalos15 (Oct 9, 2011)

do you guys know from where i get the vacuum hose for the ecu? and i have a small problem.... Car was running fine then out ouf the blue it turn off while in the highway turn it on while i had speed and kept working correctly. Then park turn it off and when i got back wouldn't start. After few tries it start but REVs where bouncing and if i took my foot from accelerator it will turn off. l try again but some smog came thru my air vent. The previous ower did not know what he was doing and i can see he tried to mess with some cables but still car was working fine when this happen....
help anyone?


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

krazy4dubz said:


> 5.25.  :thumbup:


awesome thanks!
looking to put together a audio system and wanted to make sure i bought the right size speakers for my front doors! :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

i know the rears are 4x6 so that should be easy to shop for. 
definitely appreciated!


----------



## Yareka (Mar 5, 2002)

krazy4dubz said:


> Is there a center cubby gauge cluster like the SLC one that fits the early dash?? I have a late one and before I modify it to fit my dash I'd like to see if they ever made one...


They never made a very clean one like the later style volt/pressure guage holders. Just take your time and modify it to fit the early style dash. I gutted one just so I'd have a clean place to put afr and boost guages. Too bad this pic sux to give any kind of justice but it :thumbup:


----------



## madonion (May 1, 2007)

Anyone knows the maximum HP the stock inline fuel pump on a G60 can feed ?


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

eurobred said:


> awesome thanks!
> looking to put together a audio system and wanted to make sure i bought the right size speakers for my front doors! :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
> 
> *i know the rears are 4x6 so that should be easy to shop for. *


 Not exactly. They are "Euro fit 4X6's" whatever that means. I've already been through a couple of sets that didn't fit. One was because the magnet was too big. I'm thinking I may end up having to do some modifications back there.


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

What's up 
I'm installing a bbm fuel rail that I purchased but it's asking to delete that after run pump that goes at the end of the fuel rail towards the drivers side. Should I just plug it and that's it or is there a better solution to deleting it? 

1990 corrado g60


----------



## DubCorrado (Aug 7, 2009)

*Cam timing and ignition*

Hello,

Im chasing boost leaks and I got another odd question. I heard that cam timing can affect the psi levels you see and this is what Im mostly afraid of and before I mess with that I want to ask something. If a cam is set slightly advanced or retarded, will setting the ignition timing to any point help counteract that? Or is there no hope for me and I will have to open it all up again? 

Thanks a lot in advance,
Mark


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

NoCYet said:


> Not exactly. They are "Euro fit 4X6's" whatever that means. I've already been through a couple of sets that didn't fit. One was because the magnet was too big. I'm thinking I may end up having to do some modifications back there.


hmmm.... how would one go by shopping for rear speakers then? any of you have any success with aftermarket 4x6 in the rear? if so what brand speaker?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

madonion said:


> Anyone knows the maximum HP the stock inline fuel pump on a G60 can feed ?


This shouldn't be your question, but it depends on your FPR & injectors. If you are leaning out heavily, you may need to consider swapping it out.



NoCYet said:


> Not exactly. They are "Euro fit 4X6's" whatever that means. I've already been through a couple of sets that didn't fit. One was because the magnet was too big. I'm thinking I may end up having to do some modifications back there.


Almost all magnets are too big for the design of the rear shelves, IIRC, Euro you won't have to trim the baskets on the speaker. I have Cerwin Vega's and did not have to trim the baskets.



tonyg60 said:


> What's up
> I'm installing a bbm fuel rail that I purchased but it's asking to delete that after run pump that goes at the end of the fuel rail towards the drivers side. Should I just plug it and that's it or is there a better solution to deleting it?
> 
> 1990 corrado g60


It's just a sensor...



DubCorrado said:


> Hello,
> 
> Im chasing boost leaks and I got another odd question. I heard that cam timing can affect the psi levels you see and this is what Im mostly afraid of and before I mess with that I want to ask something. If a cam is set slightly advanced or retarded, will setting the ignition timing to any point help counteract that? Or is there no hope for me and I will have to open it all up again?
> 
> ...


For testing boost, you should cap the hose at the TB



eurobred said:


> hmmm.... how would one go by shopping for rear speakers then? any of you have any success with aftermarket 4x6 in the rear? if so what brand speaker?


answered above


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

eurobred said:


> hmmm.... how would one go by shopping for rear speakers then? any of you have any success with aftermarket 4x6 in the rear? if so what brand speaker?


I have used balupunkt with no trimming needed. Also alpine type-r speakers with no needed trimming. Hope this helps. :beer:


----------



## SLC4EVER (Oct 7, 1999)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Almost all magnets are too big for the design of the rear shelves


MB Quart 4x6m, still had to trim to clear the magnet. Had to trim even more to clear the adjusters for the coilovers too. What a stupid place for a speaker.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

SLC4EVER said:


> MB Quart 4x6m, still had to trim to clear the magnet. Had to trim even more to clear the adjusters for the coilovers too. What a stupid place for a speaker.


Didn't know MB Quart made a 4x6m still.

I have used infinity 4x6m speakers with no trimming.


----------



## 20th#726 (Jan 10, 2007)

Since the times are changing what is fair market price for a Corrado now days.

What I am looking at is a 1992 Corrado VR6. 143,XXX Miles, Noted issues with the car on the sale add are...

The good:
Shaved front bumper with fresh paint.
Raceland coilovers.
Keskin kt1 16x7.5
Tan leather in fair condition.
EURO SEAT BELTS!
Giac chip.
2.5" exhaust.
Pulls strong.
Daily driver for 2 years

The bad:
Has a oil leak.
Needs driver side rear wheel bearings(in the process of replacing)
Driver side door handle broke but i have another one i can throw in.
Ignition switch busted but i also have another one i can throw in.

Upon inspecting the car my mechanic friend and myself found:

Low coolant
Bald Tires
ABS light on *Kind of a big deal.*
Chains and Guides have not been replaced *Kind of a big deal.*
Interior isn't very clean (smoker)
Tan leather door cards and seats really aren't great..

Now, I understand that the car is 18 years old so i cant be too picky but the owner is asking $3000. Dropped the price down to $2500. He told me I would be able to buy it for $2000. I feel like the car needs a fair amount of work even for 2k before its a daily driver (which I plan on doing with it) I travel for work so the car will be sitting in airport parking lots 5-6 days a week but enjoyed when i'm off. I fell like $1500 for the whole mess is reasonable. Am I wrong? Are these cars holding such value with poor maintenance?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

20th#726 said:


> Since the times are changing what is fair market price for a Corrado now days.
> 
> What I am looking at is a 1992 Corrado VR6. 143,XXX Miles, Noted issues with the car on the sale add are...
> 
> ...


^^Those are good points???  :sly:







20th#726 said:


> Chains and Guides have not been replaced *Kind of a big deal.*
> 
> Now, I understand that the car is 18 years old so i cant be too picky but the owner is asking $3000. Dropped the price down to $2500. He told me I would be able to buy it for $2000. I feel like the car needs a fair amount of work even for 2k before its a daily driver (which I plan on doing with it) I travel for work so the car will be sitting in airport parking lots 5-6 days a week but enjoyed when i'm off. I fell like $1500 for the whole mess is reasonable. Am I wrong? Are these cars holding such value with poor maintenance?


$2K seems fair for a '92 VR, considering it needs chains ($$$ especially if there's labour to be paid too - ie. not doing them yourself)


----------



## madonion (May 1, 2007)

Sr. Karmann said:


> This shouldn't be your question, but it depends on your FPR & injectors. If you are leaning out heavily, you may need to consider swapping it out.


I know it isn't directly related but there is still a correlation between HP numbers and and the amount of fuel it needs to flow to be able to feed it. If someone would be able to tell me how many LPH or GPH the inline pump can feed I can do the rest of the math.

If someone would tell me I have a g60 with 230hp @crank on pump gas and needed to change the stock fuel pump cause it was leaning out this could be a very good indication for me.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

madonion said:


> I know it isn't directly related but there is still a correlation between HP numbers and and the amount of fuel it needs to flow to be able to feed it. If someone would be able to tell me how many LPH or GPH the inline pump can feed I can do the rest of the math.
> 
> If someone would tell me I have a g60 with 230hp @crank on pump gas and needed to change the stock fuel pump cause it was leaning out this could be a very good indication for me.


Check out the top 20 hp G60's thread and if that does not prevail, post in the G60 technical forum.


----------



## 20th#726 (Jan 10, 2007)

RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^Those are good points???  :sly:
> 
> $2K seems fair for a '92 VR, considering it needs chains ($$$ especially if there's labour to be paid too - ie. not doing them yourself)


Well, I wouldn't consider them the good points. More or less they are pointed out by the seller in his add. Hence his original 3k asking price. I was kinda workin on a deal with him for the car without the wheels.. any other input guys?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

madonion said:


> I know it isn't directly related but there is still a correlation between HP numbers and and the amount of fuel it needs to flow to be able to feed it. If someone would be able to tell me how many LPH or GPH the inline pump can feed I can do the rest of the math.
> 
> If someone would tell me I have a g60 with 230hp @crank on pump gas and needed to change the stock fuel pump cause it was leaning out this could be a very good indication for me.


What injectors and FPR are you running?

Probably not the fuel pump... Especially for that low of numbers.


----------



## SLC4EVER (Oct 7, 1999)

TheBurninator said:


> Didn't know MB Quart made a 4x6m still.
> 
> I have used infinity 4x6m speakers with no trimming.


I honestly don't know if they still do. Needed something better than stock for rear fill and there weren't many options at the time. That was back in the day when I didn't think about hearing loss and most vehicle MFR's didn't give a crap about SQ. The louder and clearer I could go, the better. 

It's catching up to me though, I find myself saying "What?" more and more often.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

SLC4EVER said:


> I honestly don't know if they still do. Needed something better than stock for rear fill and there weren't many options at the time. That was back in the day when I didn't think about hearing loss and most vehicle MFR's didn't give a crap about SQ. The louder and clearer I could go, the better.
> 
> It's catching up to me though, I find myself saying "What?" more and more often.


I know what you mean. I spend too much time around loud music. Pretty sure I am starting to get tinnitus already.


----------



## VAN CAN (Jul 4, 2010)

could I run spacers on redrilled rims using thin tunner bolts? thanks.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

VAN CAN said:


> could I run spacers on redrilled rims using thin tunner bolts? thanks.


Sure. Just not with Adapted Wheels. Adapters + Spacers = Dumbass. 
Redrill + Spacers = Just like a normal wheel without the redrill.


----------



## VAN CAN (Jul 4, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Sure. Just not with Adapted Wheels. Adapters + Spacers = Dumbass.
> Redrill + Spacers = Just like a normal wheel without the redrill.


thanks Dubzak!

Im going with a set of 16x7.5 - 8.5 et35 rs's and im sure i will need some spacers.


----------



## VwDubDriver8 (Dec 22, 2011)

This is a stupid question do most corrados have heated seats?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Most, but not all have hated seats.


----------



## Dkordinate (Apr 27, 2011)

Putting a 2.0 engine in my Corrado was wondering if the flywheel and everything will fit fine on the 2.0. Will it be balanced right and everything? Also what else would I need to do just bolt it in and put the 2.0 ecu and harness in? I have the ecu and harness so there is no problem getting one.


----------



## VwDubDriver8 (Dec 22, 2011)

*Corrado SLC*

1992 Vw Corrado SLC vr6 with auto tech catback exhaust and a stage 1 VF superchgarger. Would a downpipe or high flow cat be better to put on going performance. Where could I get a dp or high flow cat? Does a DP affect emisson tests?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

VwDubDriver8 said:


> 1992 Vw Corrado SLC vr6 with auto tech catback exhaust and a stage 1 VF superchgarger. Would a downpipe or high flow cat be better to put on going performance. Where could I get a dp or high flow cat? Does a DP affect emisson tests?


high flow cat and port the stock exhaust manifolds and downpipe.

Otherwise go buy S2 Metalworks header.

If you want better performance throw the VF kit in the trash and pick up a V1 head unit with AMS bracket.


----------



## VwDubDriver8 (Dec 22, 2011)

Thanks, but as of now I am on a tight budget. If I were to get either a downpipe or a high flow cat which one would be better?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

VwDubDriver8 said:


> Thanks, but as of now I am on a tight budget. If I were to get either a downpipe or a high flow cat which one would be better?


The cat. You can modify the stock downpipe and manifolds to flow better than most headers.

There are threads on this in the vr6 tech forum. needavr6 did a writeup years ago.


----------



## sg.giffin (Jul 25, 2009)

*Head Warped*

Well guys i took my head of of my 93 VR6 C and they told me it had a .012in warp in it.. 
Now from what they told me this is unusable? This doesn't seem right, however i have heard
both sides of the story i have heard that you can sand down the head by placing it on a flat piece of glass and tape sandpaper over the glass and slowly sand down the head... And i have also been told that some VR6 heads you can't do this too.

Looking for answers ASAP! Please & Thank you!

:beer:opcorn:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

sg.giffin said:


> Well guys i took my head of of my 93 VR6 C and they told me it had a .012in warp in it..
> Now from what they told me this is unusable? This doesn't seem right, however i have heard
> both sides of the story i have heard that you can sand down the head by placing it on a flat piece of glass and tape sandpaper over the glass and slowly sand down the head... And i have also been told that some VR6 heads you can't do this too.
> 
> ...


That is the most ghetto way to resurface a head...

Max you can shave off of a vr6 head is .020". Have it done professionally at a machine shop that is familiar with vr6's.


----------



## sg.giffin (Jul 25, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> That is the most ghetto way to resurface a head...
> 
> Max you can shave off of a vr6 head is .020". Have it done professionally at a machine shop that is familiar with vr6's.


Well this glass idea was comming from a VW guy... and he was saying to use reall fine sandpaper


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

sg.giffin said:


> Well this glass idea was comming from a VW guy... and he was saying to use reall fine sandpaper


Doesn't mean it was a good idea... it works well for trueing a manifold gasket surface but I wouldn't do it with a cylinder head.


----------



## sg.giffin (Jul 25, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Doesn't mean it was a good idea... it works well for trueing a manifold gasket surface but I wouldn't do it with a cylinder head.


well its more or less just like what they do at a machine shop just minus the automated part of it...


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

sg.giffin said:


> well its more or less just like what they do at a machine shop just minus the automated part of it...


And the uniformity and accuracy.


----------



## sg.giffin (Jul 25, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> And the uniformity and accuracy.


well you would be making some of wedge to stick in the right place and level out the head with a level and then begin sanding....


----------



## eavalos15 (Oct 9, 2011)

I might have something similar to eurobred ^^^ my radio harness was hackup badly cables everywhere. My wing does not go up or down. Changed relay, and switch. I dont feel anything clicking in the relay when i press the switch. I was thinking to change all my wing mechanisn. but i saw what eurobred. any ideas?

Happy new year!


----------



## VwDubDriver8 (Dec 22, 2011)

what do you mean by porting the manifolds, would you suggest getting new high performance heads


----------



## VwDubDriver8 (Dec 22, 2011)

headers***


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

VwDubDriver8 said:


> what do you mean by porting the manifolds, would you suggest getting new high performance heads


Meening making the intake manifold air passage way bigger ti get more air through and if you were talking about exhaust manifolds is the same thing but instead of air its exhaust.


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

i know the wing wiring harness goes through the radio if im not mistaken?

my radio harness has been hacked up, so the wing will only go up and down if i hit the switch.

but when im going 75-80mph, if i already have the wing up or hit the switch to do so.... it goes back down about 5 seconds later by itself...

any ideas?


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

My last newbie question of the year.  Can someone please give me a good pic or diagram of the serp belt route on a G60. With A/C. :thumbup: And my new years resolution is to get a Corrado Bentley manual this year. 

Thanks,

David


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

krazy4dubz said:


> My last newbie question of the year.  Can someone please give me a good pic or diagram of the serp belt route on a G60. With A/C. :thumbup: And my new years resolution is to get a Corrado Bentley manual this year.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David


Scroll down on this link :thumbup:

http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4198


----------



## VwDubDriver8 (Dec 22, 2011)

What is the difference between the vr6 and SLC?


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

VwDubDriver8 said:


> What is the difference between the vr6 and SLC?


they are the same. 
the SLC carries the vr6


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

Car overheated the other day- leaked out of my expansion tank, top hose hot, bottom hose COLD (it was also a cold day). Boiled my T-stat, it opened fine. waterpump works, metal impellars. 

Took a pic inside my radiator- it appears as though there was once a plastic gasket around the openings shown- is this an issue?


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

g60301 said:


> Scroll down on this link :thumbup:
> 
> http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4198


Thanks bud, great info on that page.  Bookmarked* And I actually found the info I needed but I'm glad I also checked this page out. :thumbup:

Thanks,

David


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

VwDubDriver8 said:


> what do you mean by porting the manifolds, would you suggest getting new high performance heads





VwDubDriver8 said:


> headers***


On a VR6 the Stock Exhaust Manifolds are technically an extension of the cylinder head and were designed to even out the unequal length the motor creates by being in a staggered 6 cyl arrangement. If you gasket match/port the OEM Manifolds, and run the TT 2.5" Downpipe, you can get some nice gains from that. 
The only header worth a sh*t is the S2 Metalwerks. If you put a raceland or obx (or any other cheap ebay header) on, congratulations! You just lost power, and torque. 





eurobred said:


> i know the wing wiring harness goes through the radio if im not mistaken?
> 
> my radio harness has been hacked up, so the wing will only go up and down if i hit the switch.
> 
> ...


Check with a spare cluster (if you have one). If still not working properly, pin out all connections and check resistance from the wing motor itself. I cannot remember what the limits are but the Bentley shows the maximum values. 

I think it is electrical, because if it were to be the wing motor, the fuses would be popping. 



VwDubDriver8 said:


> What is the difference between the vr6 and SLC?





eurobred said:


> they are the same.
> the SLC carries the vr6


Technically no. SLC is a United States only model. Canada got badged "VR6" because it did not have the shi++y power seatbelts like our Sport Luxury Coupe, had Recaros and the US Spec Knee Bar was not present in favor of a Parcel Tray. All VR6 Powered cars in Europe (Not North American spec at least) came with a 2.9 VR6 and were badged Corrado VR6 like the Canadian models, just a bigger motor. 

And lastly, VR6 models in Europe had optional Power Leather Recaros. :drool: 



skaterhernandez4 said:


> Car overheated the other day- leaked out of my expansion tank, top hose hot, bottom hose COLD (it was also a cold day). Boiled my T-stat, it opened fine. waterpump works, metal impellars.
> 
> Took a pic inside my radiator- it appears as though there was once a plastic gasket around the openings shown- is this an issue?


Rehost the pic, I cannot see.


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

krazy4dubz said:


> Thanks bud, great info on that page.  Bookmarked* And I actually found the info I needed but I'm glad I also checked this page out. :thumbup:
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David


:thumbup: I have it saved on my phone.


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

Hello I have a corrado g60 that I need to adjust. When I put the crank pulley on the mark for tdc the cam gear shows somewhere else not on the edge of the head. Can I just remove the timing belt and rotate the cam gear to where it should be?

Thanks


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

I bought my C with a non abs swap already done to it. Now the brake/abs light never comes on, and I would like to be able to hook up my break light on the dash without the abs light glowing. Do I need to take the abs brain out of my car? Where is it?


----------



## erickramirez (Aug 2, 2008)

my coolant temp cant seem to stay at 195. i originally bought a low temp thermostat and it only heated up to around 170, then i bought a normal temp thermostat and now it heats up to 225?? while i figure this out what would be the best temp to run the car at, 170 or 225??


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

tonyg60 said:


> Hello I have a corrado g60 that I need to adjust. When I put the crank pulley on the mark for tdc the cam gear shows somewhere else not on the edge of the head. Can I just remove the timing belt and rotate the cam gear to where it should be?
> 
> Thanks


Check the mark on the flywheel for tdc not the crank pulley. Also make sure you aren't 180* out of time.



1956dub said:


> I bought my C with a non abs swap already done to it. Now the brake/abs light never comes on, and I would like to be able to hook up my break light on the dash without the abs light glowing. Do I need to take the abs brain out of my car? Where is it?


Driver side kick panel. Remove the whole harness. It is one piece of harness and should come out easily.







erickramirez said:


> my coolant temp cant seem to stay at 195. i originally bought a low temp thermostat and it only heated up to around 170, then i bought a normal temp thermostat and now it heats up to 225?? while i figure this out what would be the best temp to run the car at, 170 or 225??


170 isn't getting the ecu out of warmup mode.


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> Check the mark on the flywheel for tdc not the crank pulley. Also make sure you aren't 180* out of time.
> 
> 
> Will do thanks. How do I know if I'm 180*


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

erickramirez said:


> my coolant temp cant seem to stay at 195. i originally bought a low temp thermostat and it only heated up to around 170, then i bought a normal temp thermostat and now it heats up to 225?? while i figure this out what would be the best temp to run the car at, 170 or 225??


225 is totally fine. 170 is not hot enough.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

tonyg60 said:


> Will do thanks. How do I know if I'm 180*


Because the TDC mark will not be lined up but the cam will be.


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> Because the TDC mark will not be lined up but the cam will be.


Ok I put the engine on tdc and the cam gear mark is somewhere else. I rotate it and put it again on tdc and the cam gear is pointing at the right direction. Is this right? 

Thanks for the help appreciate it


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

What is this sensor?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

g60301 said:


> What is this sensor?


Fuel pump after-run


----------



## Choppa6 (Jan 9, 2009)

Aint that the blinker fluid modulator?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Fuel pump after-run


:thumbup: Chad knows G60s :laugh: 




g60301 said:


> What is this sensor?


Btw, you need to secure that vac.line going from the FPR to the inlet (mini zip tie)


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

RedYellowWhite said:


> :thumbup: Chad knows G60s :laugh:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Not my car, just a pic for refrence.:thumbup:


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

1st off I just wanna say I love this thread mainly because everytime I have a noob question this is the place here I go... Removing headlight lens--- I know you bake them in oven to remove lens. But my questions are what temp and aprox how long in oven? Then my main question is how to put lens back on? My cousin told me to put back in oven..... But I thought once the lens is off that I would scrape sealer off both sides and clean with alcohol and then use fresh apoxy to reseal and clamp sortof like the fogs. What is the best way? Thanks again for any help that is given:beer:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Tk2g60 said:


> 1st off I just wanna say I love this thread mainly because everytime I have a noob question this is the place here I go... Removing headlight lens--- I know you bake them in oven to remove lens. But my questions are what temp and aprox how long in oven? Then my main question is how to put lens back on? My cousin told me to put back in oven..... But I thought once the lens is off that I would scrape sealer off both sides and clean with alcohol and then use fresh apoxy to reseal and clamp sortof like the fogs. What is the best way? Thanks again for any help that is given:beer:


Bake at 150*. Reseal them with silicone. Not epoxy. You will never get them apart again if you use epoxy. Don't need to rebake when you put them back together.


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

TheBurninator said:


> Bake at 150*. Reseal them with silicone. Not epoxy. You will never get them apart again if you use epoxy. Don't need to rebake when you put them back together.


should this be a comfortable instruction for all headlights getting a DIY smoke mod?

bake at 150* for how long?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

eurobred said:


> should this be a comfortable instruction for all headlights getting a DIY smoke mod?
> 
> bake at 150* for how long?


I'm guessing it only applies for NA-spec headlights, since e-codes aren't sealed (they come off by removing their surrounding clips)


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

I baked mine literally 3 times! Still couldnt get those fu(kers apart! So I quit before I ended up braking them or cracking the glass.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

eurobred said:


> should this be a comfortable instruction for all headlights getting a DIY smoke mod?
> 
> bake at 150* for how long?





just buy euros. No need to bake.




RedYellowWhite said:


> I'm guessing it only applies for NA-spec headlights, since e-codes aren't sealed (they come off by removing their surrounding clips)



yup. Silly NA headlights






g60301 said:


> I baked mine literally 3 times! Still couldnt get those fu(kers apart! So I quit before I ended up braking them or cracking the glass.


Just buy euro's


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

Hope very one had a good week end. So guys I bought a bfi solid rubber g60 tranny mount and swaped the tranny the diff took a crap..so over the weekend I was putting the tranny back in the tranny brackets do not match up with the new mount I put on what needs to be done? Thanks guys :beer:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

G60Ron said:


> Hope very one had a good week end. So guys I bought a bfi solid rubber g60 tranny mount and swaped the tranny the diff took a crap..so over the weekend I was putting the tranny back in the tranny brackets do not match up with the new mount I put on what needs to be done? Thanks guys :beer:


Wiggle. Loosen the other mounts too.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

G60Ron said:


> Hope very one had a good week end. So guys I bought a bfi solid rubber g60 tranny mount and swaped the tranny the diff took a crap..so over the weekend I was putting the tranny back in the tranny brackets do not match up with the new mount I put on what needs to be done? Thanks guys :beer:


Really man? Why the fu(k call me, and then post this stupid $hit? I told you what to do explicitly and even said if it doesn't line up, you probably bent your kframe. I'm done helping you if you don't wanna listen /done...



TheBurninator said:


> Wiggle. Loosen the other mounts too.


Has already been explained to this kid...


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

Hey chad chill out I'm just hearing out other option dude


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

G60Ron said:


> Hey chad chill out I'm just hearing out other option dude


I got it in I put the cv axels on the only thing now is my shift linkage is messed up it doesn't want to select certain gears


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

G60Ron said:


> I got it in I put the cv axels on the only thing now is my shift linkage is messed up it doesn't want to select certain gears


Adjust it.


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

dumb question....


is the passat vr6 cluster and the corrado vr6 cluster the same? im looking at the DDI gauge face kits and it looks to me like its identical.

also if i buy an SLC volt/oil OEM gauges, can i make them fit in my G60 dash cubby?


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

1broknrado said:


> dumb question....
> 
> 
> is the passat vr6 cluster and the corrado vr6 cluster the same? im looking at the DDI gauge face kits and it looks to me like its identical.
> ...


You should get the spoonfed gauge face kit:thumbup: people are putting orders in now. I'm not 100% sure but I am pretty sure that slc volt/oil oem gauge does fit. I'm sure someone will verify that soon


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

i like the DDI cluster look better


----------



## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

Hey all...I have a G60 and was wondering what all is involved in making the 5 lug swap. I have a full MK3 set up from a 95 VR if that will work. Thanks. :thumbup:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

twoteks said:


> Hey all...I have a G60 and was wondering what all is involved in making the 5 lug swap. I have a full MK3 set up from a 95 VR if that will work. Thanks. :thumbup:


Control Arms
Axles
Spindles
Brakes
Rack
Tie Rods
Ball Joints
Rear Rotors
5 Lug Wheels


----------



## toolanddie (Jan 9, 2012)

*Corrado question*

Is it difficult to take off the front intake to paint it? as mine is a bit dirty and needs updated. As well the top engine cover? I take it, its a couple of clips that break off when you remove it.Haven't really looked at it yet


----------



## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

TheBurninator said:


> Control Arms
> Axles
> Spindles
> Brakes
> ...


MK3 VR control arms will bolt right into the G60 subframe? MK3 VR axels are the same length as G60 axels? Looks like I have every thing so far. Just want to make sure all my ducks are in a row. Gonna knock this out at work so it needs to be done in one shot. Thanks again. :thumbup:


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

twoteks said:


> MK3 VR control arms will bolt right into the G60 subframe? MK3 VR axels are the same length as G60 axels? Looks like I have every thing so far. Just want to make sure all my ducks are in a row. Gonna knock this out at work so it needs to be done in one shot. Thanks again. :thumbup:


I forgot if you need the knuckle, but deff need the 5 lug hubs:thumbup:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

twoteks said:


> MK3 VR control arms will bolt right into the G60 subframe? MK3 VR axels are the same length as G60 axels? Looks like I have every thing so far. Just want to make sure all my ducks are in a row. Gonna knock this out at work so it needs to be done in one shot. Thanks again. :thumbup:


Control arms bolt right up. The axles are longer for 5 lug (plus) suspension and have the proper spline count for the hubs. Bolts right up to the trans.

When you do the swap replace the ball joints and the tie rod ends. Hell do the wheel bearings too while you are in there. Save you some headache later.


----------



## tenzbac (Oct 15, 2011)

*1990 corrado g60*

well what going on here .
my car had no power my battery dies right so we do the alternator test take of the positvi terminal
and the car turns of wich would indicate that the alternator dont work i took it off took it to autozone they tested and it passed in perfect working condition. so then whats the problem.????? help me!
thanks in advance am 18 new to the machanics but fast learner .


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

learn english first so it's a little easier to understand... but why didn't you bring the battery and the alternator to be tested as well. check your volt readings from the alternator and from the battery


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

tenzbac said:


> well what going on here .
> my car had no power my battery dies right so we do the alternator test take of the positvi terminal
> and the car turns of wich would indicate that the alternator dont work i took it off took it to autozone they tested and it passed in perfect working condition. so then whats the problem.????? help me!
> thanks in advance am 18 new to the machanics but fast learner .


Check the exciter wire to the alt.


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

TheBurninator said:


> Check the exciter wire to the alt.


I know your an expert with these cars, I know for a fact something is wrong with my exciter wire because my battery led dosent come on when ignition is turned 1 click, I have too rev it too about 3200 rpms for it to jump the alt in. ive researched, however I have nothing solid. Is there a common spot this wire gets kinked or fu(ked up at?
Where dose the exciter wire go to from the alternator? (if im tracing from the alternator)


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

g60301 said:


> I know your an expert with these cars, I know for a fact something is wrong with my exciter wire because my battery led dosent come on when ignition is turned 1 click, I have too rev it too about 3200 rpms for it to jump the alt in. ive researched, however I have nothing solid. Is there a common spot this wire gets kinked or fu(ked up at?
> Where dose the exciter wire go to from the alternator? (if im tracing from the alternator)


Goes across the front of the block to a little plastic bracket on the tranny and plugs into a connector which comes from a harness (Same Harness that has knock and crank sensor connectors) that is fed along the frame rail.

Common kink areas.... not sure but it runs near the block and i'm sure it gets hot around there.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

g60301 said:


> I know your an expert with these cars, I know for a fact something is wrong with my exciter wire because my battery led dosent come on when ignition is turned 1 click, I have too rev it too about 3200 rpms for it to jump the alt in. ive researched, however I have nothing solid. Is there a common spot this wire gets kinked or fu(ked up at?
> Where dose the exciter wire go to from the alternator? (if im tracing from the alternator)


Usually they are broken either right at the connector on the alt itself or right by the battery.

The wire runs from the alt to the fuse block, from the fuse block it goes to the cluster battery light. There is also a connector for it near the battery. Single pin terminal, white in color.


----------



## DubCorrado (Aug 7, 2009)

*Vacuum hose to ECU*

Hello I got another question, Sr. Karmann or Burninator would you be kind as to shed some light on this topic for me, or any body else for that matter.

I was wandering, what are the negative effects of having a slightly longer or shorter vacuum hose that goes from the intake manifold to the ECU (rather than the "needed" one meter exact)? And will this also have an effect on psi levels?

Thanks in advance,
Mark


----------



## erickramirez (Aug 2, 2008)

just curious, how hot do your guys' superchargers get to the touch? no matter how long i drive (1+ hrs) i can always pop the hood and put my hand on the charger and it is just warm, i can keep it there forever, whereas the valve cover gets really hot and i cant keep my hand on it for more than a second.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

DubCorrado said:


> Hello I got another question, Sr. Karmann or Burninator would you be kind as to shed some light on this topic for me, or any body else for that matter.
> 
> I was wandering, what are the negative effects of having a slightly longer or shorter vacuum hose that goes from the intake manifold to the ECU (rather than the "needed" one meter exact)? And will this also have an effect on psi levels?
> 
> ...


Supposedly it makes the car run rough.

Personally I have never seen this issue. There is no way that the digifant ECU is fast enough to see the changes in latency between a 1 meter vacuum line and a 10 meter vacuum line to the MAP sensor.

A vacuum pulse travels at the speed of sound. So there should really be no issues with a longer or shorter vacuum line but the bentley and VW say otherwise. Personally I think it is a myth. I have run a longer line before on my mk1 when I swapped in Digi1 and had no issues.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

erickramirez said:


> just curious, how hot do your guys' superchargers get to the touch? no matter how long i drive (1+ hrs) i can always pop the hood and put my hand on the charger and it is just warm, i can keep it there forever, whereas the valve cover gets really hot and i cant keep my hand on it for more than a second.


I would like to know this aswell...the valve cover on my G60 gets really hot (to the point that you can't touch it) in like 10-15 min...


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DubCorrado said:


> Hello I got another question, Sr. Karmann or Burninator would you be kind as to shed some light on this topic for me, or any body else for that matter.
> 
> I was wandering, what are the negative effects of having a slightly longer or shorter vacuum hose that goes from the intake manifold to the ECU (rather than the "needed" one meter exact)? And will this also have an effect on psi levels?
> 
> ...


Although I feel a little differently from Mr burns, the volume of air will affect the "pulse" how much, probably not much. But if it is suggested by the engineers that designed it that way, I would personally keep it as suggested.



erickramirez said:


> just curious, how hot do your guys' superchargers get to the touch? no matter how long i drive (1+ hrs) i can always pop the hood and put my hand on the charger and it is just warm, i can keep it there forever, whereas the valve cover gets really hot and i cant keep my hand on it for more than a second.


You want it hotter? :what:



TheBurninator said:


> Supposedly it makes the car run rough.
> 
> Personally I have never seen this issue. There is no way that the digifant ECU is fast enough to see the changes in latency between a 1 meter vacuum line and a 10 meter vacuum line to the MAP sensor.
> 
> A vacuum pulse travels at the speed of sound. So there should really be no issues with a longer or shorter vacuum line but the bentley and VW say otherwise. Personally I think it is a myth. I have run a longer line before on my mk1 when I swapped in Digi1 and had no issues.


:thumbup:



RedYellowWhite said:


> I would like to know this aswell...the valve cover on my G60 gets really hot (to the point that you can't touch it) in like 10-15 min...


Your G60 is not really connected to a source that encloses combustion as is the VC sitting right over it


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Although I feel a little differently from Mr burns, the volume of air will affect the "pulse" how much, probably not much. But if it is suggested by the engineers that designed it that way, I would personally keep it as suggested.


The only reason I say this is because of the testing that the DIYAutotune guys did. They found that vacuum attenuation didn't occur until after 50 feet of vacuum hose.

They were getting the same readings from a more precise ECU for that kind of distance. Only reason I say it is a myth to have a 1 meter hose.


----------



## mk_ultra (Jan 31, 2009)

I just finished swapping out my old drivers side seat for a better condition one and my question is, because I broke a piece of the center console, was I supposed to remove the center console before removing front seats? Don't hate on me i'm still a noob at working on cars:laugh:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

mk_ultra said:


> I just finished swapping out my old drivers side seat for a better condition one and my question is, because I broke a piece of the center console, was I supposed to remove the center console before removing front seats? Don't hate on me i'm still a noob at working on cars:laugh:


yeah you were


----------



## mk_ultra (Jan 31, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> yeah you were


Thanks. Lesson learned :laugh:
I'll be restoring my Corrado this year so I'm going to be bugging you guys with questions. :beer:


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

my tilt steering wheel failed while driving today - hit a small expansion joint on the freeway and then all of a sudden, the steering wheel flopped down (engaging the tilt lock did nothing). I could still steer the car, but it was disconcerting to say the least. 

any ideas?


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

valet said:


> my tilt steering wheel failed while driving today - hit a small expansion joint on the freeway and then all of a sudden, the steering wheel flopped down (engaging the tilt lock did nothing). I could still steer the car, but it was disconcerting to say the least.
> 
> any ideas?


 Ive read something one this before, I think a bushing or clip goes bad. I fogot where I seen it, im sure it was one here though. Try googling it.

HereYou go 

http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4479


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

g60301 said:


> Ive read something one this before, I think a bushing or clip goes bad. I fogot where I seen it, im sure it was one here though. Try googling it.
> 
> HereYou go
> 
> http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4479


thanks for the info - going to have to look into that when its light outside. When I came to a stop at the bottom of the off-ramp, after the tilt lock failed, I was able to lock the column again and it didn't happen again on the ride home after that :screwy:

It also bears mentioning that I have removed the power steering on my car, and that when the tilt had failed, the steering wheel was very light to move (almost as if I still had power steering), and when I was able to relock the column, the steering wheel went back to non-powersteering behavior


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> The only reason I say this is because of the testing that the DIYAutotune guys did. They found that vacuum attenuation didn't occur until after 50 feet of vacuum hose.
> 
> They were getting the same readings from a more precise ECU for that kind of distance. Only reason I say it is a myth to have a 1 meter hose.


I'd like to see the test results and methods used :thumbup:


----------



## DubCorrado (Aug 7, 2009)

Man you two are like the only Corrado experts I seen in this thread recently. Well thanks a lot guys for the info, I really appreciate it, great thanks to whoever made this thread so there wont be thousands of threads filled with simple questions like mines. 

Once again thanks to Sr. Karmann and Burninator.

Mark


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DubCorrado said:


> Once again thanks to Sr. Karmann and Burninator.


:beer:


----------



## mk_ultra (Jan 31, 2009)

Is it possible to swap in the b4 passat moonroof unit and install the corrado's metal sunroof instead of keeping the b4 glass?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I'd like to see the test results and methods used :thumbup:


I will see if I can find the test again.



mk_ultra said:


> Is it possible to swap in the b4 passat moonroof unit and install the corrado's metal sunroof instead of keeping the b4 glass?


Actually I have no idea...


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

Is there a Corrado group on FB? Can someone send me a link please ?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Tk2g60 said:


> Is there a Corrado group on FB? Can someone send me a link please ?


Thats why nothing but noobs have been posting on vortex  All the awesome people are on the facebook group 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/333429536674265/


----------



## chillzombies (Oct 17, 2008)

Hey guys so i drove the corrado to work today (daily driver:screwy and the car felt fine, when i went to leave i noticed the clutch felt kinda spongy, i called my mechanic and he said that i could come by tomorrow and we would bleed the clutch and figure it all out, im just thinking thats its really strange that i drove it to work and it was fine and then driving home, it feels spongy, any ideas guys?


----------



## mk_ultra (Jan 31, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Actually I have no idea...


I was doing some searching and I saw a thread where a person asked the same question, he didn't received an answer either. I wonder if someone has tried it.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

chillzombies said:


> Hey guys so i drove the corrado to work today (daily driver:screwy and the car felt fine, when i went to leave i noticed the clutch felt kinda spongy, i called my mechanic and he said that i could come by tomorrow and we would bleed the clutch and figure it all out, im just thinking thats its really strange that i drove it to work and it was fine and then driving home, it feels spongy, any ideas guys?


low on fluid or a puncture in the clutch line.

Could just be the MC or SC failing though.


----------



## chillzombies (Oct 17, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> low on fluid or a puncture in the clutch line.
> 
> Could just be the MC or SC failing though.


should mention brand new clutch and USP stainless steel braided clutch line, both 2 weeks since installed, i spoke with DUBZAK he suggested i bleed it again, if the problem persists look into replacing the slave first and then the master, ill be bleeding it tomorrow thanks guys:thumbup:


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> Thats why nothing but noobs have been posting on vortex  *All the awesome people are on the facebook group *




yeah that's what I figured  that's y asked sOmeone to send it to me so all the noobs wouldn't try to jump in the banwagon:laugh: thanks man the request is in! I wanna be awesome too


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

mk_ultra said:


> Is it possible to swap in the b4 passat moonroof unit and install the corrado's metal sunroof instead of keeping the b4 glass?


No



TheBurninator said:


> I will see if I can find the test again.
> 
> 
> 
> Actually I have no idea...


Cool and no it does not, known first hand 



Tk2g60 said:


> Is there a Corrado group on FB? Can someone send me a link please ?


Search Corrado


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

DubCorrado said:


> Man you two are like the only Corrado experts I seen in this thread recently. Well thanks a lot guys for the info, I really appreciate it, great thanks to whoever made this thread so there wont be thousands of threads filled with simple questions like mines.
> 
> Once again thanks to Sr. Karmann and Burninator.
> 
> Mark


:thumbup: They don't call him *St.* Karmann for nothing :laugh:

_Now where is that damn jpg. Can't find it anywhere _


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## mk_ultra (Jan 31, 2009)

I have some spare time today and wanted to clean the throttle body. I have some carburetor cleaner laying around the garage. Can I use that or should i make a run and buy some throttle body cleaner. It's for my vr6. Is there a difference ?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

mk_ultra said:


> I was doing some searching and I saw a thread where a person asked the same question, he didn't received an answer either. I wonder if someone has tried it.


doesn't work



RedYellowWhite said:


> :thumbup: They don't call him *St.* Karmann for nothing :laugh:
> 
> _Now where is that damn jpg. Can't find it anywhere _


:laugh:

This one?









:laugh:



mk_ultra said:


> I have some spare time today and wanted to clean the throttle body. I have some carburetor cleaner laying around the garage. Can I use that or should i make a run and buy some throttle body cleaner. It's for my vr6. Is there a difference ?


Carb cleaner works perfect :thumbup:


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## olskoolg60 (Jan 9, 2012)

Anyone know how to bolt a 16v head on a g60 8v block? WHat you need etc...:banghead:


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> :laugh:
> This one?
> 
> 
> ...


Yup, that's the one :laugh: :wave: :beer:

_right click, save _


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## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

Looking into getting some wheel spacers and was wondering if you guys have tried the ones that auto zone or advanced auto sells. Should I shell out the extra cash for some Eibach or H&R's or does it matter when it comes to these? Idk


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## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> doesn't work
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Lol:laugh:


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## chillzombies (Oct 17, 2008)

PrjktRado1 said:


> Looking into getting some wheel spacers and was wondering if you guys have tried the ones that auto zone or advanced auto sells. Should I shell out the extra cash for some Eibach or H&R's or does it matter when it comes to these? Idk


i think you answered you're own question!


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

PrjktRado1 said:


> Looking into getting some wheel spacers and was wondering if you guys have tried the ones that auto zone or advanced auto sells. Should I shell out the extra cash for some Eibach or H&R's or does it matter when it comes to these? Idk


Please do yourself a favor and purchase direct fit vs universal. You'll thank me down the road


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

mk_ultra said:


> I have some spare time today and wanted to clean the throttle body. I have some carburetor cleaner laying around the garage. Can I use that or should i make a run and buy some throttle body cleaner. It's for my vr6. Is there a difference ?


Pretty much the same in terms of purpose. I have had much better luck using throttle cleaner. It's designed to breakdown blow by buildup


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Yup, that's the one :laugh: :wave: :beer:
> 
> _right click, save _


:laugh:


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> Please do yourself a favor and purchase direct fit vs universal. You'll thank me down the road


I'll look into it thanks. I may pick up one of Auto Zones $13.99 specials just to make sure I have the right size. At least they'll let you return them. :thumbup:


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## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

g60301 said:


> Lol:laugh:


Didn't realize Sr. Corona was so God-like :laugh:


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## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

I have a VR6 manifold that I don't know if it is a OBd1 or OBD2. What I do know is there's a difference in the way the bolts line up. But I'm not installing it so I still don't know. Is there a way to tell by the code underneath or anything else? Thanks


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## smawgunner45 (Aug 19, 2005)

Okay oh wise dubbers...just picked up a 92 Corrado VR6 with electric mirrors that when operated do nothing except make noise and shutter/vibrate. I can hear the motors working which is a positive. Thoughts? I tried to search but nothing specific came up on a fix. Lots of people bitchin' about the mirrors themselves needing replaced, or the motors going out completely though.


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## mattsgota325i (Mar 2, 2006)

its below freezing out.. finished up doing brakes and fixing a rear brake line earlier this week.. took my car through the touchless car wash.. it does the whole underbody spray etc.. got home watched some football ate some food.. (killed about 2 hrs).. just went to go get in my car to head back out.. and it starts but as soon as the key comes back to on position from starting the car it shuts back down.... any ideas? 

did i freeze something or did something break in the ignition.. ?!?! 

any help or ideas would be great thanks.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

scrapper said:


> I have a VR6 manifold that I don't know if it is a OBd1 or OBD2. What I do know is there's a difference in the way the bolts line up. But I'm not installing it so I still don't know. Is there a way to tell by the code underneath or anything else? Thanks


Part number, but if your throttle body does not bolt up, the manifold is obd2. ISV hose hole would also identify obd1.



smawgunner45 said:


> Okay oh wise dubbers...just picked up a 92 Corrado VR6 with electric mirrors that when operated do nothing except make noise and shutter/vibrate. I can hear the motors working which is a positive. Thoughts? I tried to search but nothing specific came up on a fix. Lots of people bitchin' about the mirrors themselves needing replaced, or the motors going out completely though.


Pull the mirrors of and pull them apart. Only waybto see what you broke. 



mattsgota325i said:


> its below freezing out.. finished up doing brakes and fixing a rear brake line earlier this week.. took my car through the touchless car wash.. it does the whole underbody spray etc.. got home watched some football ate some food.. (killed about 2 hrs).. just went to go get in my car to head back out.. and it starts but as soon as the key comes back to on position from starting the car it shuts back down.... any ideas?
> 
> did i freeze something or did something break in the ignition.. ?!?!
> 
> any help or ideas would be great thanks.


Basic "won't run" diag, air fuel spark. Make sure you have those 3 first.


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## mattsgota325i (Mar 2, 2006)

mattsgota325i said:


> its below freezing out.. finished up doing brakes and fixing a rear brake line earlier this week.. took my car through the touchless car wash.. it does the whole underbody spray etc.. got home watched some football ate some food.. (killed about 2 hrs).. just went to go get in my car to head back out.. and it starts but as soon as the key comes back to on position from starting the car it shuts back down.... any ideas?
> 
> did i freeze something or did something break in the ignition.. ?!?!
> 
> any help or ideas would be great thanks.


froze something up.. started up when i got out work today.. thanks anyways


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## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

> DUBZAK said:
> 
> 
> > Part number, but if your throttle body does not bolt up, the manifold is obd2. ISV hose hole would also identify obd1.
> ...


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## cstanley19 (Sep 23, 2006)

Does anyone remember when McNair posted up about refinishing his windshield? I am pretty sure it was on his build thread but I have gone through every page and can't seem to find it. If not, does anyone have any steps or suggestions for cutting back the windshield and polishing it? Thanks gents.


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## Krazee (Jan 26, 2003)

mk_ultra said:


> Is it possible to swap in the b4 passat moonroof unit and install the corrado's metal sunroof instead of keeping the b4 glass?


Yes it is. B3/4, mk3 and Corrados all share the same rails. The differences lie in the center panels (metal, glass + drip tray) and the motors.

Motors come in two types:
-older, pre 92.5 model year
-newer, post 92.5 model year

B4s & mk3s are all newer, b3s, G60s and early VRs are older.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Krazee said:


> Yes it is. B3/4, mk3 and Corrados all share the same rails. The differences lie in the center panels (metal, glass + drip tray) and the motors.
> 
> Motors come in two types:
> -older, pre 92.5 model year
> ...


Louis, show me a pic of a metal panel on a Passat or mkiii glass assy lining up with the roof  the mounting points are different on the panel vs the glass


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## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> Honestly 4300k-4500k is the brightest. It goes down from there when you go up to higher kelvin bulbs.
> 
> I have 6000k's in one of my cars and there is a clear difference in visibility between them and my audi which is 4300k's
> 
> 55w ballasts do wash out the color a little bit too. :thumbup:


You guys think if I use a 55w ballast with 6000k it will look ok? I want a lil blue but not that much?


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## BlkdOutA4 (Dec 27, 2009)

Hey guys, I have a busted g60 headlight lense...my question is....will slc lenses be the same as g60? I have a cheap slc light I'm ready to buy but don't want to buy it if the lense won't be the same. 

Thanks in advance


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

BlkdOutA4 said:


> Hey guys, I have a busted g60 headlight lense...my question is....will slc lenses be the same as g60? I have a cheap slc light I'm ready to buy but don't want to buy it if the lense won't be the same.
> 
> Thanks in advance


^^E-codes??? ----> No, not the same...


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## BlkdOutA4 (Dec 27, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^E-codes??? ----> No, not the same...



I'm not asking anything about ecodes. Im asking if the lenses on a set of NA g60 headlights are the same depth and pattern on the glass as an NA slc lense


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

BlkdOutA4 said:


> I'm not asking anything about ecodes. Im asking if the lenses on a set of NA g60 headlights are the same depth and pattern on the glass as an NA slc lense


no, but IMO SLC lights fill out the core support better.


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## BlkdOutA4 (Dec 27, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> no, but IMO SLC lights fill out the core support better.


Ok cool thanks. I guess I have another question then too..if I throw an slc grille on with the g60 lights will it stick out further than the g60 grill? I know I need to make mods to the support for the slc grille.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

BlkdOutA4 said:


> Ok cool thanks. I guess I have another question then too..if I throw an slc grille on with the g60 lights will it stick out further than the g60 grill? I know I need to make mods to the support for the slc grille.


No, just a tab need to be broken off the SLC Grille. The depth differences in the Headlights coincide with the grille as well.


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## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

Need some help on pointing out the damage 



Just might have enough to buy a new shifter  :banghead:


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## FlatlanderSJ (Oct 4, 2007)

G60Ron said:


> Need some help on pointing out the damage
> 
> Just might have enough to buy a new shifter  :banghead:


looks like you need to replace the bushings. 
#9 is in pieces in the bottom of the housing and the bushing on the lever is also gone. The only way to replace that bushing is to buy the whole shaft with the bushing on it.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4944426-DIY-VR6-02A-shifter-rebuild


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## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

FlatlanderSJ said:


> looks like you need to replace the bushings.
> #9 is in pieces in the bottom of the housing and the bushing on the lever is also gone. The only way to replace that bushing is to buy the whole shaft with the bushing on it.
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4944426-DIY-VR6-02A-shifter-rebuild


Which is the bushing that I need to buy with the lever?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

G60Ron said:


> Which is the bushing that I need to buy with the lever?


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5152254-Shifter-rebuild&highlight=shifter+rebuild


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## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

G60Ron said:


> Which is the bushing that I need to buy with the lever?


 It goes where the circle is. It's the part that makes it so you have to push down and over to get it into reverse, and it keeps it from popping back over when you do.


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## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

NoCYet said:


> It goes where the circle is. It's the part that makes it so you have to push down and over to get it into reverse, and it keeps it from popping back over when you do.


Ugh (smh)


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## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Is the hard i.c. Pipe on a automatic g60 different then the hard i.c. Pipe on a manuel g60 heres a pic of my friends and mine to compair. Either way both of these pictures are on manuel cars, were just trying to figure out why his is different then mine. 

His:









Mine:









I think his looks cleaner as it runs closer to the motor, less cluttered imo. :beer:


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Can't tell for sure if there's a difference between auto and manual but I can see on your examples that one uses 90* rubber hose from TB to IC pipe and the other uses the L-shaped rubber hose (its a 1990 and 1991 G60 difference) - Maybe that's why they are angled/look different???


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## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Can't tell for sure if there's a difference between auto and manual but I can see on your examples that one uses 90* rubber hose from TB to IC pipe and the other uses the L-shaped rubber hose (its a 1990 and 1991 G60 difference) - Maybe that's why they are angled/look different???


We must get to the bottom of this:laugh: ive looked at a lot of under the hood pics as im sure you have aswell, however this is the first one ive seen with the i.c. Pipe like that. I also noticed which you cant see in the picture, but his dipstick is closer.to the front of the car as opposed to being closer to thet motor like mine is shown in the picture.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

g60301 said:


> We must get to the bottom of this:laugh: ive looked at a lot of under the hood pics as im sure you have aswell, however this is the first one ive seen with the i.c. Pipe like that. I also noticed which you cant see in the picture, but his dipstick is closer.to the front of the car as opposed to being closer to thet motor like mine is shown in the picture.


I still think it looks like that due to the different upper boost hose:

Here's how the oe hard IC pipe looked (closer on the motor) on mine when I had the 90* hose on:


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## 91redjetta (Aug 28, 2006)

I have a 90 g60 .. were can i get a Speedo cable? And I need the rubber seal that goes around the passenger side rear body glass. Got the new glass but cant get a seal.. thanks


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

91redjetta said:


> I have a 90 g60 .. were can i get a Speedo cable? And I need the rubber seal that goes around the passenger side rear body glass. Got the new glass but cant get a seal.. thanks


Among other places...

Speedo cable:
http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/2001/HD_Corrado_Speedometer_Cable

For the pass.side side quarter window seal, EPP sells the whole unit (incl.glass) but really expensive : http://www.europeanperformanceprodu..._Rear-Side-Window---Right-Side---Corrado.html

Try Zeb @ 1stVWparts for that


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## IMWALKIN (Mar 28, 2002)

will a vr6 cubby volt/boost guage fit a 90 g60?
if i have no mph/nowing/no cruise/ but have tach is it the speedo cable?
thanks


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## rip_n_ter (Jun 22, 2009)

*circuit board for rear wing??*

Have a 92 Corrado, VR6, skills for working on this car pretty good (plus have a brother who has been working on VW for years).

We are doing a heater core replacement and ran across a circuit board dangling when we removed the knee board on the drivers side. I will try to get a picture today.

Wondering what it might be and what kind of box it would have been in originally or atleast where it should be attached to and what.

Thanks for any help.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

IMWALKIN said:


> will a vr6 cubby volt/boost guage fit a 90 g60?...


It can be made to fit (custom job)
I've seen this been done atleast 2 times


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## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

I need a rubber washer for idle screw on a 90 g60. Where do I buy?


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

g60301 said:


> I need a rubber washer for idle screw on a 90 g60. Where do I buy?


You couple choices, buy new idle screw from dealer or online tuners like bbm or etc. Or check local auto store for ac o-rings. The black ones. :thumbup:


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

chc-rado said:


> You couple choices, buy new idle screw from dealer or online tuners like bbm or etc. Or check local auto store for ac o-rings. The black ones. :thumbup:


Also put some telfon tape or loc-tite(blue) on the threads, so it won't unscrew it self. The oem already has loc-tite on it.


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

Attn: eurowires.net harness owners... 

What are those little 2 prong connectors (one on each side) for? I was thinking they were maybe for car's with electric adjusters but I thought I'd ask to make sure.  any info would help. :thumbup:

Thanks,

David


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## rowenG60 (Jan 21, 2012)

*Re*

1990 g60

The raddo needed some loving so I got bilstens, control arms, c/v joints, tie rods, h&r springs, timing belt, water pump, and new front motor mount. Now the camber is all jacked. Idk if its the springs or the control arms but it is BAD! And after a week of driving on the new motor mount I think it broke cause now the motor is leaning to the right and the a/c pull is resting on the frame maaking a horribal sound and destroying belts. What other mounts do I need to replace? Please help


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## rip_n_ter (Jun 22, 2009)

rip_n_ter said:


> Have a 92 Corrado, VR6, skills for working on this car pretty good (plus have a brother who has been working on VW for years).
> 
> We are doing a heater core replacement and ran across a circuit board dangling when we removed the knee board on the drivers side. I will try to get a picture today.
> 
> ...


Problem solved, the box was attached to the dashboard :laugh:


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## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

chc-rado said:


> You couple choices, buy new idle screw from dealer or online tuners like bbm or etc. Or check local auto store for ac o-rings. The black ones. :thumbup:


Think ill try the auto store. I cant see myself paying 50 bucks for a new idle screw!:screwy:


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## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

I picked a G60 recently and I'm going thru the wiring in the engine bay and found this. This wire is in the corner by the radiator the plug goes to the fan. It's part of that spaghetti mess of wires in the corner next to the battery. But my concern is why is this wire bridged with 3 red wires. I'm pointing to it and it has green connecter. Thanks for yr thoughts 
Is this stock or some hack job? The car has some electrical demons and perhaps this could be part of the cause.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

that looks like one of the factory butt connectors


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

krazy4dubz said:


> Attn: eurowires.net harness owners...
> 
> What are those little 2 prong connectors (one on each side) for? I was thinking they were maybe for car's with electric adjusters but I thought I'd ask to make sure.  any info would help. :thumbup:
> 
> ...


Grey single wire for city lights


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## V4310W (Nov 18, 2011)

Does anyone know where I might find a new/replacement hall sensor plug? Might I be able to find it on different cars at the wrecking yard? Or is it something that's best ordered new? I'm assembling my 93 distributor and one of the 3 wires is broken off right where it feeds into the plug making a fix rather difficult. Also, I'm assuming that the loose green wire with electrical tape instead of a butt connector :screwy: is the missing wire from the plug. Can anyone confirm this? My car and Bentley are both 20 miles away at my parents house so I thought I'd try here first but that's why no pics. I can get pics tomorrow if that is helpful. Thank you in advance :snowcool:


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Grey single wire for city lights


Thank you.  

David


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## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

TheBurninator said:


> that looks like one of the factory butt connectors


 Thanks


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

scrapper said:


> Thanks


 aye, unfortunately, that is a factory job


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## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Quick question. On a 90 g60, behind the rear super charger bracket is a hole. It has a rubber o ring attached to the gladers bracket. Does bbm make a block off plate for that? or should I just stick with the plate I made out of sheet metal? And what is the point of the hole being there? Im refering to the bracket bolted to the block.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

g60301 said:


> Quick question. On a 90 g60, behind the rear super charger bracket is a hole. It has a rubber o ring attached to the gladers bracket. Does bbm make a block off plate for that? or should I just stick with the plate I made out of sheet metal? And what is the point of the hole being there? Im refering to the bracket bolted to the block.


 That hole is on every 1.8 block from VW. That is where the WUR mounts on CIS cars. Digi2 cars got a block off for it. Factory. 

I would just junkyard one.


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## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

TheBurninator said:


> That hole is on every 1.8 block from VW. That is where the WUR mounts on CIS cars. Digi2 cars got a block off for it. Factory.
> 
> I would just junkyard one.











:laugh:


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

g60301 said:


> :laugh:


 P/N: 063103113 

They are about 25 bucks new from the stealer.


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

So have new oem windshield in dd. I can see.:laugh: anyways, I heard people waxing there windshield. I noticed even washing and keeping the glass clean, you can still see wiper marks and so call dirt line after washing the windshield. I use rain-x every couple weeks, and have euro wipers too. Big improvement. I watch some YouTube on it how to do it. It does make difference in visual. I guess my real question, if going wax the windshield, how often will you wax(polish) it. Or is it just waste. I'm not stopping pitting, I just like brand new look of new windshield.  what your thought?


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## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

Need an assist again  

Alright this pic is the ignition plug that mates to the ignition switch. The 3rd wire down seems to be more faded red / pink then solid red. Pics is bad I know. 

My question is I purchased a Corrado G60 with a push button start switch. I put it back to stock and when I put a New ignition switch in and turned it over it smokes the ignition switch. Is that wire that is pink taking a lot heat or current hence frying the switch. 

Does pink wire signifies current issues or a problem? 

Does the wires look properly placed in plug? 

Thanks ///


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

My guess would be the s-contact switch, which power up windows and radio with key out, and doors closed.


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## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Part number for the little cap that covers the timing hole on a g60 ?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

g60301 said:


> Part number for the little cap that covers the timing hole on a g60 ?


 The hole in the bellhousing?


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## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

chc-rado said:


> My guess would be the s-contact switch, which power up windows and radio with key out, and doors closed.


 Hey thanks for the info. :thumbup:


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## V4310W (Nov 18, 2011)

*weird noise*

I just finished doing my chains and clutch on my 93 distributor. Started it up yesterday and the engine sounds good. However when I take my foot off the clutch with the transmission in neutral I get a strange grinding type of noise and the axles spin some. I have searched and most results are useless or point to throwout bearing or lightened flywheel. Neither of those scenarios explain why the axles spin in neutral. Is there something I'm missing? My dad and I are both stumped and don't want to pull the tranny back out unless 100% sure we need to. :banghead:Any ideas/thoughts/comments/pointers/advice/criticism would be greatly appreciated!


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

V4310W said:


> I just finished doing my chains and clutch on my 93 distributor. Started it up yesterday and the engine sounds good. However when I take my foot off the clutch with the transmission in neutral I get a strange grinding type of noise and the axles spin some. I have searched and most results are useless or point to throwout bearing or lightened flywheel. Neither of those scenarios explain why the axles spin in neutral. Is there something I'm missing? My dad and I are both stumped and don't want to pull the tranny back out unless 100% sure we need to. :banghead:Any ideas/thoughts/comments/pointers/advice/criticism would be greatly appreciated!


 The grinding is not normal, however some axle spin in neutral if off the ground is.


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> The grinding is not normal, however some axle spin in neutral if off the ground is.


 Make sure you don't have any very worn(broken) mounts, and drive axle not rubbing against the subframe frame. More noticeable when the front end is off the ground.


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## JonD91 (Aug 18, 2011)

I know this has probably already been asked a dozen times, but I couldn't find specifically what I was looking for through the search. Will a full din head unit fit in the Corrado dash? I know theres that little metal plate that will most likely have to be removed but I was wondering if anyone had installed a full din head unit. Im looking into a flip up screen and just wanted to know. Thanks in advance guys


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

JonD91 said:


> I know this has probably already been asked a dozen times, but I couldn't find specifically what I was looking for through the search. Will a full din head unit fit in the Corrado dash? I know theres that little metal plate that will most likely have to be removed but I was wondering if anyone had installed a full din head unit. Im looking into a flip up screen and just wanted to know. Thanks in advance guys


 Single din or double din?


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## JonD91 (Aug 18, 2011)

its a single full din. I don't want to delete/move the heater controls for a double


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

JonD91 said:


> its a single full din. I don't want to delete/move the heater controls for a double


 Stock stereo is a single din as well....


----------



## JonD91 (Aug 18, 2011)

true, but in the description for the unit Im looking at it says "full din" and I haven't done too much with car audio so I didn't know if there was a difference


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

So it appears that my heater fan speed knob is slightly melted, is this a common weak spot for the 93+ hvac system? I know about the resistors going bad, and bad contacts on the copper ring itself, could that cause that much heat? I definately won't be driving it until I find the problem.:banghead:


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

1956dub said:


> So it appears that my heater fan speed knob is slightly melted, is this a common weak spot for the 93+ hvac system? I know about the resistors going bad, and bad contacts on the copper ring itself, could that cause that much heat? I definately won't be driving it until I find the problem.:banghead:


 Resistor took it out, and the age of the contacts. 

Good thing you can mod the MK3 HVAC Controls to fit.


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Anyone got an idea on an appropiate labor hours estimate for a front end rebuild on a corrado? (Ball joints, Control arm bushings, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings end links and then alignment). 
I've talked with 4 different places and the approx hour esimates are very different. From 2 hours to 11 hours. What should I realistically expect it to be? 
2 hours seems to quick, and 11 seems to long. I've never done it myself so I have no clue.


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

cyberstasi said:


> Anyone got an idea on an appropiate labor hours estimate for a front end rebuild on a corrado? (Ball joints, Control arm bushings, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings end links and then alignment).
> I've talked with 4 different places and the approx hour esimates are very different. From 2 hours to 11 hours. What should I realistically expect it to be?
> 2 hours seems to quick, and 11 seems to long. I've never done it myself so I have no clue.


 VR6 will be more, bc of the oil pan in the way for control arm on the pass side. It's 1.5 hr per side for control arm, 1hr for each ball joint, additional 1hr for Vr6 bc you need lift the engine. I charge 6 hrs for whole job including alignment. That seem fair. Some guys charge 8 hrs. That seem steep. But I don't work northern snow belt, where rust could be problem for stubborn bolts.


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

chc-rado said:


> VR6 will be more, bc of the oil pan in the way for control arm on the pass side. It's 1.5 hr per side for control arm, 1hr for each ball joint, additional 1hr for Vr6 bc you need lift the engine. I charge 6 hrs for whole job including alignment. That seem fair. Some guys charge 8 hrs. That seem steep. But I don't work northern snow belt, where rust could be problem for stubborn bolts.


 
Thanks for the input. I forgot to mention the car is a G60. Not sure how much eaiser that makes things. 
Im in Maryland, so snow is somewhat of an issue but never that much. Around here Impact Wrench > Snow Rust. Now way up north Im sure thats not the case. lol


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

cyberstasi said:


> Thanks for the input. I forgot to mention the car is a G60. Not sure how much eaiser that makes things.
> Im in Maryland, so snow is somewhat of an issue but never that much. Around here Impact Wrench > Snow Rust. Now way up north Im sure thats not the case. lol


 G60 are much easier to do for control arms. 8hrs should more than enough. If got money to burn, pay somebody to it, if not, DIY is great learning process with right tools. :laugh:


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## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

hey need some help 

i got a g60 that i recently replaced the head. i got a p&p head with bigger valves. my problem is that when i hold the gas pedal at a certain rpm the engine seems to shake and wont raise rpm, it gets stuck there. it only does this sometimes not always. not sure where to start looking. along with the head i also changed the fuel rail and added an adjustable fpr. i have it set to 45 psi. 

thanks :thumbup:


----------



## V4310W (Nov 18, 2011)

V4310W said:


> I just finished doing my chains and clutch on my 93 distributor. Started it up yesterday and the engine sounds good. However when I take my foot off the clutch with the transmission in neutral I get a strange grinding type of noise and the axles spin some. I have searched and most results are useless or point to throwout bearing or lightened flywheel. Neither of those scenarios explain why the axles spin in neutral. Is there something I'm missing? My dad and I are both stumped and don't want to pull the tranny back out unless 100% sure we need to. :banghead:Any ideas/thoughts/comments/pointers/advice/criticism would be greatly appreciated!


 This seems to be the problem :facepalm: 
















The rivet things on the pressure plate are rubbing on the transmission. The new flywheel looks to be thicker than the old one which would make the pressure plate that much closer to the transmission correct? Is my best option to swap the original flywheel in?


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

What exhaust and intake manifolds should one use when doing an AEB swap?


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

I have 2 questions here for you guys. 

1. I need to replace my headlight harness so my question... Is there a difference between a g60 and a vr6 headlight harness? 

2. I am replacing my ebrake cable and while I'm at it was thinking about switching my ebrake lever to a r32 lever which is leather with grey or red stitching. My question is will this mk4 lever hook right up to the rado? Has anyone ever tried? I kinda figure it's a simple ebrake lever and should hook up similar but I just wanna make sure before I waist my $$ 

Thanks for any help that is given


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Resistor took it out, and the age of the contacts.
> 
> Good thing you can mod the MK3 HVAC Controls to fit.


 I kinda figured that might be the problem, so my question now is, can the resistor become intermittent? As I can still get all 4 speeds on the blower motor (speed 3 is tricky, have to press on the control very hard for it to work) to work. Can I drive my car as long as I don't turn on my blower motor? Ugh........I knew I'd have these problems eventually.


----------



## VAN CAN (Jul 4, 2010)

Dubzak help. 

if you had a staggered set of 16x8-9 et 42 what brand and size adapters would you use to have the rim sit flush with fender? thanks. 

bbs rs


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

turtledub said:


> What exhaust and intake manifolds should one use when doing an AEB swap?


 Mk4 parts for both. If you'd like the throttle body on the drivers side go with a tt225 intake Mani.:thumbup:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Mk4 parts for both. If you'd like the throttle body on the drivers side go with a tt225 intake Mani.:thumbup:


 Nope. Need a euro driver side exit mani. The TT is small port the AEB head is large port.

There is a large port passenger side exit one as well.

034 sells them.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Tk2g60 said:


> I have 2 questions here for you guys.
> 
> 1. I need to replace my headlight harness so my question... Is there a difference between a g60 and a vr6 headlight harness?
> 
> ...


 No difference but there is other lighting and other items in the same harness. Not going to be an easy swap...

No idea on the mk4 lever. Why not just get one of hose boot covers that goes over top of the stock one? It will look the same and less hassle.


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> No difference but there is other lighting and other items in the same harness. Not going to be an easy swap...
> *FmL lol figures. But I have to do it caused driver side plug that goes into the bulb fried. *
> No idea on the mk4 lever. Why not just get one of hose boot covers that goes over top of the stock one? It will look the same and less hassle.
> *Well I figured it wouldnt be much more of a hassle since I have to replace my ebrake cable anyways. Plus I found a package deal on r32 shifter knob/boot ebrake lever and pedals. Which I was planning on reselling the shifter knob and getting some $$ back. Are you talking about the ones that redline sells?*


 Thanks for the help and answering both my questions :beer:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Tk2g60 said:


> Thanks for the help and answering both my questions :beer:


 Why don't you repair the harness? You can buy the 9004 plugs with pigtails and just solder it in. Save you some headache.


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

TheBurninator said:


> Nope. Need a euro driver side exit mani. The TT is small port the AEB head is large port.
> 
> There is a large port passenger side exit one as well.
> 
> 034 sells them.


 Ok I will get a MK4 exhaust manifold. This uses the stock AEB turbo correct? Also the 034 is pretty pricey. It does not look like there is enough material to port out a TT manifold. Anyone here overnight parts from Europe? :laugh:


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

turtledub said:


> Ok I will get a MK4 exhaust manifold. This uses the stock AEB turbo correct? Also the 034 is pretty pricey. It does not look like there is enough material to port out a TT manifold. Anyone here overnight parts from Europe? :laugh:


 No.. you either use the ko3s from a mk4 golf/Jetta with the mk4 exhaust mani, or use the the larger ko4-2xx and Mani from a tt225. 

The Audi/passat stuff is worthless in a transverse car. The Turbo will not work, as its configured differently.

If you use the ko3s, just use a stock mk4 downpipe or an eBay 3" downpipe. The eBay downpipes work/fit great, just don't use the hardware they give you.

If you use a tt225 setup 42dd makes a specific downpipe for using the ko4-2xx in a mk4 Jetta/golf. It should work fine in the mk2/mk3/corrado.

The ko4-2xx will not fit on the ko3s mk4 Mani.


I think I covered most of it


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Oh.. and I didn't specify. Use a factory ko3s exhaust Mani with a ko3s, and use a ko4-2xx exhaust Mani with a ko4-2xx. They are not interchangeable.

Use whichever intake Mani you prefer for your arrangement; drivers side TB use tt225 Mani, passenger side TB use regular mk4 Mani.

Edit.. you would be best using the largeport euro (aug?) Mani that 034 sells since you are large port aeb. Or get a transition spacer from them.


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> Why don't you repair the harness? You can buy the 9004 plugs with pigtails and just solder it in. Save you some headache.


 :thumbup: that's the advice I was looking for. I really didn't want to have to do the whole harness deal. I guess I wasn't sure if I could just get the plug w/out the whole harness. Idk what I was Thinkng :screwy: thanks again!


----------



## snurb13 (Mar 28, 2004)

I searched but it didn't bring up anything helpful. And my post about it is pretty quiet so I'll try here... 

Longtime lurker here but here's the problem. 1993 Corrado won't start, I haven't used it in few months and I unplugged the battery during this time. Now when I go to start it, there's no turning over and the gauge cluster turns off. The alarm light in the door is always on, and now the gauge cluster is showing all of the LCD symbols and digits it can. 

Is it the alarm module, because I cut it out of my 1993 Passat but it didn't have these symptoms. Or is a bad ground, battery, or is the ECU toast? 

I'll keep searching and any help or thoughts of what is could possibly be. 

:beer:


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

Any reason why I cant flip the coil pack upside down to hide wires? I assume as long as I have the plug wires in the correct location this would work.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> Any reason why I cant flip the coil pack upside down to hide wires? I assume as long as I have the plug wires in the correct location this would work.


I can't see it being a problem since position doesn't affect ignition but I'm sure someone will chime in and disagree with me


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> Any reason why I cant flip the coil pack upside down to hide wires? I assume as long as I have the plug wires in the correct location this would work.


If you have deleted the SAI, mount it underneath the intake manifold. :thumbup:


----------



## fox-16v (Jun 30, 2009)

The PO of my G60 unbolted the O2 sensor ground bracket from the car, does it just bolt onto the rear motor mount bracket?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> I can't see it being a problem since position doesn't affect ignition but I'm sure someone will chime in and disagree with me


Just keep in mind heat is what kills vr6 coils.







DUBZAK said:


> If you have deleted the SAI, mount it underneath the intake manifold. :thumbup:



yup. Nice spot for it. Just needs longer leads to deal wih the relocation.




fox-16v said:


> The PO of my G60 unbolted the O2 sensor ground bracket from the car, does it just bolt onto the rear motor mount bracket?


Yup


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

> TheBurninator
> Just keep in mind heat is what kills vr6 coils.


Learn something new everyday. :beer:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> Learn something new everyday. :beer:


http://www.verdictmotorsports.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=0137
Enjoy


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> Learn something new everyday. :beer:





TheBurninator said:


> http://www.verdictmotorsports.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=0137
> Enjoy











:laugh:


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

I like the idea of relocating the coil pack under the intake manifold. But... If heat kills coil packs then wouldn't that be a hotter area with the crack pipe, oil cooler, block, and oil filter housing?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Heat rises. Probably a little cooler than the stock location being right in the path of airflow from the fans. 
Wish I could relocate my Dizzy  :laugh:


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> I like the idea of relocating the coil pack under the intake manifold. But... If heat kills coil packs then wouldn't that be a hotter area with the crack pipe, oil cooler, block, and oil filter housing?


It would really depend on how you built the bracket. Stock the coilpack deals with heat radiating from the timing cover since it is bolted directly to it. If you built the bracket right you could keep it cooler than the stock location.


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

fox-16v said:


> The PO of my G60 unbolted the O2 sensor ground bracket from the car, does it just bolt onto the rear motor mount bracket?


yes


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> It would really depend on how you built the bracket. Stock the coilpack deals with heat radiating from the timing cover since it is bolted directly to it. If you built the bracket right you could keep it cooler than the stock location.


I see. I think I will give it a go. Thanks!


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## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

Do you guys think powder coating calipers and carriers is a bad idea


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Tk2g60 said:


> Do you guys think powder coating calipers and carriers is a bad idea


Had a long technical discussion about this with Noah a couple years ago. Consensus was powder coating will hide cracks if the calipers or carriers start fatiguing. He suggested painting them instead of powder coating.

With that said this was in reference to Wilwoods and not the stock cast iron stuff. Although I will just stick with paint for everything in regards to brakes.

Don't forget to paint your rotors bright red. :thumbup:


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## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> Had a long technical discussion about this with Noah a couple years ago. Consensus was powder coating will hide cracks if the calipers or carriers start fatiguing. He suggested painting them instead of powder coating.
> 
> With that said this was in reference to Wilwoods and not the stock cast iron stuff. Although I will just stick with paint for everything in regards to brakes.
> 
> Don't forget to paint your rotors bright red. :thumbup:


You go from giving me great advice to me painting my rotors :laugh: I was thinking how much nicer they would have come out powder coated but ohh well.:thumbdown:And Wilwoods I do not need
Front brakes will be stock and the rears will have the mk4 conversion since the one sieZed. The mk4 calipers are already red. I definetly want the _rotors_ to match:laugh::laugh:


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

DUBZAK said:


> :laugh:


Lol


----------



## mrwhite2992 (Mar 27, 2011)

ok so i have a 1990 g60 that is vr6 swapped. i recently broke my front motor mount and dont know how to go about fixing it. do i need to get a vr6 mount or g60 mount? could i modify the oem hydraulic mount for the g60? thank you in advance for any help


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Tk2g60 said:


> You go from giving me great advice to me painting my rotors :laugh: I was thinking how much nicer they would have come out powder coated but ohh well.:thumbdown:And Wilwoods I do not need
> Front brakes will be stock and the rears will have the mk4 conversion since the one sieZed. The mk4 calipers are already red. I definetly want the _rotors_ to match:laugh::laugh:


The painting the rotor thing is a joke from a long time ago. Some kid did it and posted pics. Epic thread.

If you prep the calipers correctly they will come out just as nice s powder coating.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

mrwhite2992 said:


> ok so i have a 1990 g60 that is vr6 swapped. i recently broke my front motor mount and dont know how to go about fixing it. do i need to get a vr6 mount or g60 mount? could i modify the oem hydraulic mount for the g60? thank you in advance for any help


You broke the bracket or the mount itself? Or did you break the sub frame?


----------



## mrwhite2992 (Mar 27, 2011)

i broke the mount itself..


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

mrwhite2992 said:


> i broke the mount itself..


Time for BFI Mounts.


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## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> The painting the rotor thing is a joke from a long time ago. Some kid did it and posted pics. Epic thread.
> *You should bump it up:laugh: I'd like to read it lol*
> 
> If you prep the calipers correctly they will come out just as nice s powder coating.


^:thumbup: thanks


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

I am going through more wiring on my vrt build and I have been told that I can delete the auxilary coolant pump. Is this needed? Also If I can delete it, can the power lead from the Auxilary coolant pump be used to power the AWIC pump?


----------



## mrwhite2992 (Mar 27, 2011)

which ones should i buy


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

mrwhite2992 said:


> which ones should i buy


I already already told you. 

If you want me to project plan your car for you that will cost you. Till then OEM replacements or upgrades are up to you to choose what is right for you and what you want.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> I am going through more wiring on my vrt build and I have been told that I can delete the auxilary coolant pump. Is this needed? Also If I can delete it, can the power lead from the Auxilary coolant pump be used to power the AWIC pump?


Yeah. You could also use the aux coolant pump as the AWIC pump...







DUBZAK said:


> I already already told you.
> 
> If you want me to project plan your car for you that will cost you. Till then OEM replacements or upgrades are up to you to choose what is right for you and what you want.


Lulz. Spoonfeeding at its finest.


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Yeah. You could also use the aux coolant pump as the AWIC pump...


Thanks for the help once again. :thumbup:


----------



## mrwhite2992 (Mar 27, 2011)

i just was not sure whether to get the g60 or vr6 mounts....thats all.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

mrwhite2992 said:


> i just was not sure whether to get the g60 or vr6 mounts....thats all.


Wut?!?!?! LOL If you have a VR6 Swap shouldn't you use VR6 Mounts?!?!?!? :screwy:

I am sorry for the fun at your expense but really, if this is a tough task for you, might want to consider another car.


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Yeah. You could also use the aux coolant pump as the awic pump


I just thought I would clarify as I was just getting home from night shift when i responded this morning.... I wanted to know if it is ok to delete the auxillary coolant pump. A friend of mine deleted his on his vrt and has seen some prettty high coolant temps. Not sure if this is the culprate or not and I dont want the same mistake being made. 

I assume this circuit is switched by ignition and will run all the time while the car is running so it can power the bosch cobra pump I have for the awic.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> I just thought I would clarify as I was just getting home from night shift when i responded this morning.... I wanted to know if it is ok to delete the auxillary coolant pump. A friend of mine deleted his on his vrt and has seen some prettty high coolant temps. Not sure if this is the culprate or not and I dont want the same mistake being made.
> 
> I assume this circuit is switched by ignition and will run all the time while the car is running so it can power the bosch cobra pump I have for the awic.


Depends on the FCM you are running for that circuit to have power all the time or not. Some screwy things lately with replacement parts like one FCM for 2.0 and VR6 cars. :screwy: Those do not let the pump run. 

The Auxiliary coolant pump was put there because of the lack of coolant flow the VR6 suffers from. I would find another way to relocate it and keep it pumping while ignition is on if you have no concerns about it running with the after run system.


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Depends on the FCM you are running for that circuit to have power all the time or not. Some screwy things lately with replacement parts like one FCM for 2.0 and VR6 cars. :screwy: Those do not let the pump run.
> 
> The Auxiliary coolant pump was put there because of the lack of coolant flow the VR6 suffers from. I would find another way to relocate it and keep it pumping while ignition is on if you have no concerns about it running with the after run system.


This is definatly some food for thought. I plan on deleting FCM and all of its rats nest of wires. I havent put much thought into it yet but I have seen it done with relays and slim fans. As far as the auxillary coolant pump, it definatly makes sense to keep it if it was put there for a purpose in the first place. Would the gpm of the pump effect anything? I was kicking around the idea of upgrading to a bosch cobra for the aux pump if I am going to keep it. The more flow the better right? I assume I would just have to do something different with the wires if its controled by the fcm


----------



## gearhead2313 (Dec 18, 2011)

Alright, so I'm looking to run some Avus 1 five spoke rims on my '92 VR6. My impression is that a hubcentric spacer/adapter is needed to run these, especially if I'm going to do spacers any bigger than 5mm. Is this correct or can I run a another adapter as well as, say a 15mm spacer? I'm looking to run 5mms, possibly 10mms in the front and 15-20mms in the rear. Also, any comment on rokkor/raceland coils? Should I go with these or splurge the money for some konis or something a bit more quality? I would like something where I can drop about 3" in the front and 2" or so in the rear. Nothing drastic, and I'm planning on replacing all my bearings with the R32s and new bushings, etc., so definitely looking for something stiff and nice that'll last me for a while. Thanks for the help!


----------



## bunkkaws (Feb 7, 2008)

fusebox!

Hey guys, is there any reason to replace the fusebox just from sheer old age? I am considering it just because it's like 20 years old. Do they wear out?

Haven't been an enthusiast long enough to know if they ever fail / wear out.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

gearhead2313 said:


> Alright, so I'm looking to run some Avus 1 five spoke rims on my '92 VR6. My impression is that a hubcentric spacer/adapter is needed to run these, especially if I'm going to do spacers any bigger than 5mm. Is this correct or can I run a another adapter as well as, say a 15mm spacer? I'm looking to run 5mms, possibly 10mms in the front and 15-20mms in the rear. Also, any comment on rokkor/raceland coils? Should I go with these or splurge the money for some konis or something a bit more quality? I would like something where I can drop about 3" in the front and 2" or so in the rear. Nothing drastic, and I'm planning on replacing all my bearings with the R32s and new bushings, etc., so definitely looking for something stiff and nice that'll last me for a while. Thanks for the help!


Post is worthless without offsets, and you did not search for the fitment thread. 

Cheap coils are for the weak. Real men value their parts choice like a badge of honor. Koni over both that crap. 

.:R32 bearings have nothing to do with a Corrado. Bushings however are a great OEM upgrade. 

Cutting corners and being cheap is for beat cars. Save a Corrado. 


bunkkaws said:


> fusebox!
> 
> Hey guys, is there any reason to replace the fusebox just from sheer old age? I am considering it just because it's like 20 years old. Do they wear out?
> 
> Haven't been an enthusiast long enough to know if they ever fail / wear out.


Metal can fatigue from being hot, and fuseboxes do melt. Not a bad idea, and I indeed have done it.


----------



## gearhead2313 (Dec 18, 2011)

*R32 bushings, sorry. Had an early mornin this morning, so I wasn't all there. Any opinions on the full lower control arm replacement vs. just replacing the bushings? The Avus rims are 5x100 with a 57.1mm centerbore. It's the same as the Corrado specs, I just found a thread complaining of wheel shake for some reason. I contacted Hubcentric for some 5mm and 15mm spacers though and they said it should all work out. I'll stick to Konis then, I had just gotten mixed answers in carioca threads as to the reliability/performance of the Racelands. I love my Corrado, but my bank just doesn't seem to sometimes.  regardless, I'll keep only what's best on my baby. Also, any tail tinting suggestions? Heard of various results with Testors and Nightshades or even pre-cut tint. I just want all red tint, nothing smoked really.


----------



## toolanddie (Jan 9, 2012)

*VR6 part help*

can anyone tell me the part number or name of this hose at the back of the crank case.
Its causing me the worst leak ever:banghead:


----------



## vintage empire (Jan 11, 2002)

http://store.42draftdesigns.com/Mk3-VR6-PCV-Fix_p_309.html


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

gearhead2313 said:


> *R32 bushings, sorry. Had an early mornin this morning, so I wasn't all there. Any opinions on the full lower control arm replacement vs. just replacing the bushings? The Avus rims are 5x100 with a 57.1mm centerbore. It's the same as the Corrado specs, I just found a thread complaining of wheel shake for some reason. I contacted Hubcentric for some 5mm and 15mm spacers though and they said it should all work out. I'll stick to Konis then, I had just gotten mixed answers in carioca threads as to the reliability/performance of the Racelands. I love my Corrado, but my bank just doesn't seem to sometimes.  regardless, I'll keep only what's best on my baby. Also, any tail tinting suggestions? Heard of various results with Testors and Nightshades or even pre-cut tint. I just want all red tint, nothing smoked really.


No need to change control arms, unless yours are bend or something (don't see this happening often)

R32/TT bushing upgrades should be fine - there are some other stuff down there you might consider replacing if you're doing a complete suspension/steering overhaul, like ball joints, tie rods/ends etc 

Definately get quality coilovers over budget ones, if you can afford them (Koni, KW, H&R, Bilstein, ST etc.). Doing the bearings at the same time is a must 

Always put hub/wheel centric spacers to avoid "shaking" among other issues 
5mm spacers do not require longer/extended lugs - anything over 5mm does


----------



## gearhead2313 (Dec 18, 2011)

RedYellowWhite said:


> No need to change control arms, unless yours are bend or something (don't see this happening often)
> 
> R32/TT bushing upgrades should be fine - there are some other stuff down there you might consider replacing if you're doing a complete suspension/steering overhaul, like ball joints, tie rods/ends etc
> 
> ...


Thanks! :beer: I'm definitely planning a full suspension overhaul while I'm at it, and I'll stick to quality coils, and I'll make sure to swap out my bearings as well. As far as suspension/steering components go, any opinions on sticking with OEM vs. any aftermarket parts, such as French Auto Group and the like?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

gearhead2313 said:


> *R32 bushings, sorry. Had an early mornin this morning, so I wasn't all there. Any opinions on the full lower control arm replacement vs. just replacing the bushings? The Avus rims are 5x100 with a 57.1mm centerbore. It's the same as the Corrado specs, I just found a thread complaining of wheel shake for some reason. I contacted Hubcentric for some 5mm and 15mm spacers though and they said it should all work out. I'll stick to Konis then, I had just gotten mixed answers in carioca threads as to the reliability/performance of the Racelands. I love my Corrado, but my bank just doesn't seem to sometimes.  regardless, I'll keep only what's best on my baby. Also, any tail tinting suggestions? Heard of various results with Testors and Nightshades or even pre-cut tint. I just want all red tint, nothing smoked really.


This post is STILL Worthless without OFFSETS.


----------



## gearhead2313 (Dec 18, 2011)

DUBZAK said:


> This post is STILL Worthless without OFFSETS.


38mm offsets.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

gearhead2313 said:


> 38mm offsets.


And how wide are the wheels?


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## gearhead2313 (Dec 18, 2011)

6". All in all, the Speedlines I'm currently running are 0.5" wider and the offset is 5mm bigger than the Avus rims.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

gearhead2313 said:


> 6". All in all, the Speedlines I'm currently running are 0.5" wider and the offset is 5mm bigger than the Avus rims.


That is smaller than stock and will look dumb IMO. 

Check the fitment thread for all other related questions. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ders-offset-et-suspension-your-moms-horoscope

I am not going to help you move backwards. You can do that on your own.


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## gearhead2313 (Dec 18, 2011)

DUBZAK said:


> That is smaller than stock and will look dumb IMO.
> 
> Check the fitment thread for all other related questions. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ders-offset-et-suspension-your-moms-horoscope
> 
> I am not going to help you move backwards. You can do that on your own.


As far as fitment goes, the only thing lacking is spacers until i get coilovers/other suspension components, which I am taking care of through Hubcentric. I'm looking for bigger rims, probably in the ballpark of 16"-17" with a 7"-8" width. I don't mind that the Avus' are 15", but the lack of width does bug me a bit, I just think they would look nice powder coated the way I have planned. Any suggestions for how I can move FORWARDS as far as rims go, with the specs I mentioned, without breaking the bank? Definitely not looking to drop $1500 on a set, but $400-$800 or so is reasonable. I was also looking into the SLC OEM BBS basketweaves. Pretty sure they also have a 43mm offset with a 6.5" width.


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## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

*Need help please*

1990 Corrado g60 8v

Ok my idle doesn't seem to settle and the engine doesn't run good at low rpm. under load the engine seems to hesitate but gets better at higher rpm. I replaced the head and these problems showed up after I finished, the car was parked for at least 3 months. The only thing that is different is that I got p&p head. Everything else is stock. All seals and gaskets were replaced with the build. I'm running an adjustable fpr at 45 psi. Idk what else to check for. Any help would be appreciated.


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

12v vr6:

what's the steel wool type stuff that comes out of the valve cover and then goes to the air intake hose (and heating element)? if it is in fact steel wool, then what's a suitable replacement?


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## RRADO GIRLIE (Feb 2, 2009)

general electric/ most likely corrado wiring problem.

So before I moved to az I had a special visit for my car to just have the wiring harness gone over, grounds checked, broken wires fixed, fuel pump relay re-done and anything that didnt go somewhere figure out. The thing was DIALED in and everything working. (improved my gas mileage from18 - 28 mpg  )
*Its a 95 passat vr6 swapped into a 92 vr6 corrado. There were a few differences*

So recently I took it into a shop here in az to have the coolant system upgrade done. Silicone hoses, metal crackpipe, and aftermarket oil cooler. Needless to say we had some issues with the shop but they took care of it. HOWEVER when I dropped the car off my alarm and horn were working fine, when I got the car back neither are working. The alarm will lock the car, flash the lights but no siren. SO does anyone have any ideas of what he could of messed up in relation to the work he did. Im assuming because the front end was taken off etc that it is somewhere up there. Possibly messed up a ground?? We have looked over it with no luck . . . any ideas would be appreciated. 
For some reason the corrado is a magnet for people who merge and don't look * My horn would be nice to have back.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RRADO GIRLIE said:


> general electric/ most likely corrado wiring problem.
> 
> So before I moved to az I had a special visit for my car to just have the wiring harness gone over, grounds checked, broken wires fixed, fuel pump relay re-done and anything that didnt go somewhere figure out. The thing was DIALED in and everything working. (improved my gas mileage from18 - 28 mpg  )
> *Its a 95 passat vr6 swapped into a 92 vr6 corrado. There were a few differences*
> ...


Silicon hoses are a downgrade. Just wait. They will start leaking within 6 months I bet. They always get little pin holes.

Check the horn relay and the ground on the steering rack. That is for the horn.


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## Seeoseek (Feb 11, 2012)

*Help...*

I have never owned a VW...but I have done all my own work on any vehicle I have owned..from motor swapps to rebuilds...this 99 Passat has me all kinda of confused...I put a new alternator in the car...checked all the fuses and cleaned the battery connections...my brother swears by this site..I hope it's as useful to me I recently purchased the car and can't get the damn thing to hold a charge...


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## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

*CV issues*

Okay, so I had the clutch replaced in my C about a year ago, and at a local show (of course) a fellow patron pointed out to me that one of my cv/tranny flange bolts was backed out all the way up against the cv boot. This particular bolt is a pain because it continues to back itself out. Only this one bolt. I've been through my bently and it isn't real clear here. Should I red loc-tite it in? Should I loosen all of them and retourqe them all? And is Loc-tite necessary. 8mm triple square, correct? Thanks for the help fellows. Also, should I torque these from under the car? I understand extensions and tourqe wrenches don't work so well together. Thanks again!!


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## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

Seeoseek said:


> I have never owned a VW...but I have done all my own work on any vehicle I have owned..from motor swapps to rebuilds...this 99 Passat has me all kinda of confused...I put a new alternator in the car...checked all the fuses and cleaned the battery connections...my brother swears by this site..I hope it's as useful to me I recently purchased the car and can't get the damn thing to hold a charge...


This sounds like a parasitic draw, there is a way of narrowing it down by pulling fuses....wait a minute, your in the wrong forum dood, try the passat forum.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Seeoseek said:


> I have never owned a VW...but I have done all my own work on any vehicle I have owned..from motor swapps to rebuilds...this 99 Passat has me all kinda of confused...I put a new alternator in the car...checked all the fuses and cleaned the battery connections...my brother swears by this site..I hope it's as useful to me I recently purchased the car and can't get the damn thing to hold a charge...


Replace the battery. Also this is the Corrado forum, not the passat forum. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/forumdisplay.php?6-Passat-(B5)

Try there :thumbup:



1956dub said:


> Okay, so I had the clutch replaced in my C about a year ago, and at a local show (of course) a fellow patron pointed out to me that one of my cv/tranny flange bolts was backed out all the way up against the cv boot. This particular bolt is a pain because it continues to back itself out. Only this one bolt. I've been through my bently and it isn't real clear here. Should I red loc-tite it in? Should I loosen all of them and retourqe them all? And is Loc-tite necessary. 8mm triple square, correct? Thanks for the help fellows. Also, should I torque these from under the car? I understand extensions and tourqe wrenches don't work so well together. Thanks again!!


You have a couple of choices. You could red locktite it, but when you go to remove it you will need a blow torch. I would start by just replacing the bolt. If it still backs out then I would replace the flange. They are about 100 bucks and you can replace the drive seals at the same time. Red locktite would be my last resort.


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## RRADO GIRLIE (Feb 2, 2009)

Yeah the move to Arizona killed my hoses, Corrado doesn't like the heat. I replaced the upper radiator hose twice. It kept splitting in the same spot. Then the lower blew. So I said screw it got some samco. And my oil temp was running close to 300. Now with the new oil cooler its 220. I think it was clogged or something. The shop I took it to makes a pretty cool fan upgrade. lighter, Less draw fans with a clean looking shroud that gives more room in the front. If I keep the C definitely considering it. 

OH! almost forgot.... the backseatbelts dont lock? can u put mk3 belts into a corrado pretty easy? I need to be able to put a carseat back there now for cruises or just in case.


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## bunkkaws (Feb 7, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> Metal can fatigue from being hot, and fuseboxes do melt. Not a bad idea, and I indeed have done it.


Thank you sir!



Three more Qs and I haven't had much luck searching this.

1. Is there a trick to pushing out the wiring harness rubber boots in the firewall? Should I push out from the inside, or pull from the outside? They are tight like they should be but a PITA.

2. Just the opposite, any tricks on putting them back in.

3. I want to use deelectric grease on ALL the connectors to the fusebox and harness, engine etc.. (good idea or bad? Any brands you recommend?)

Thanks


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RRADO GIRLIE said:


> Yeah the move to Arizona killed my hoses, Corrado doesn't like the heat. I replaced the upper radiator hose twice. It kept splitting in the same spot. Then the lower blew. So I said screw it got some samco. And my oil temp was running close to 300. Now with the new oil cooler its 220. I think it was clogged or something. The shop I took it to makes a pretty cool fan upgrade. lighter, Less draw fans with a clean looking shroud that gives more room in the front. If I keep the C definitely considering it.
> 
> OH! almost forgot.... the backseatbelts dont lock? can u put mk3 belts into a corrado pretty easy? I need to be able to put a carseat back there now for cruises or just in case.


You should have just fixed the coolant problem instead of replacing hoses.

Just get a set of Corrado seatbelts from the classifieds



bunkkaws said:


> Thank you sir!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Push out from the inside. Smallest plugs first then the big plugs. Installation is reverse of removal.
Why are you pulling your whole harness out to replace the fuseblock? I would just pull the fuse block connectors and leave everything else in its place.

Dielectric grease is a good idea. Even better if you can manage to pull apart the fuse block and coat the innards with it.

I disagree about just replacing the fuseblock for no reason. If you have no major electrical issues that can be traced back it will just be a headache for you with the possibility of creating issues. Dielectric grease isn't a bad idea though. It works wonders inside of dash switches.


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## derjet (Jul 31, 2006)

*1993 SLC PROBLEM #2 (of many...stay tuned)*

Picked up a 93 Rado VR yesterday. Clear title, runs strong, tranny good. However it has a ton of small and big problems and I will inquire about in no particular order. Problem #2: The tilt wheel won't lock into place. It is free moving as I drive. Looking at scematics, I don't see this as a seperate part. Am I able to buy this without getting the whole column? Having the parts, I can do the work. I don't live anywhere near a big city, so salvage yards are not possible. Im at the mercy of OEM part #s and ordering online. Shops in my town? No VW dealer or specialty German service shop at all.....


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## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

How should one run the grounds for the engine harness? Can I just ground sensors and the like to any where on the car? or should they be on the motor? I have the heard to keep them on the motor but I am trying to keep this really clean so the less wires the better. grounding block? I planned on battery relocate to the hatch, ground from neg terminal to the car. Ground from car to motor/trans. then pick up a good ground spot near the front somewhere and mount a grounding block. Then just branch off the ground block. Any help is appreciated. TIA


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> How should one run the grounds for the engine harness? Can I just ground sensors and the like to any where on the car? or should they be on the motor? I have the heard to keep them on the motor but I am trying to keep this really clean so the less wires the better. grounding block? I planned on battery relocate to the hatch, ground from neg terminal to the car. Ground from car to motor/trans. then pick up a good ground spot near the front somewhere and mount a grounding block. Then just branch off the ground block. Any help is appreciated. TIA


Just ground it directly to the head or block. The head is ideal.
You can combine the ground wires into 1 if you use a larger gauge wire. 12ga would suffice for sensors.


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## JMAVG60 (Aug 5, 2010)

90 corrado G60

Having a very confusing problem. I have exhausted my ideas so far on my car. I have replaced the waterpump, waterpump housing, all coolant sensors, cooling fan, flushed coolant system, engine flush. I can feel the coolant being pushed through coolant lines and there are no leaks. I drive the car for about ten to 15 minutes with all temperatures fine before coolant light starts flashing and the temp shoots up to just over 230. I replaced thermostat about a year ago with a 170 and checked it when I did water pump last week. There is no contamination of oil and compression is still strong so its not head gasket. I dont get it. Any thoughts.


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## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> How should one run the grounds for the engine harness? Can I just ground sensors and the like to any where on the car? or should they be on the motor? I have the heard to keep them on the motor but I am trying to keep this really clean so the less wires the better. grounding block? I planned on battery relocate to the hatch, ground from neg terminal to the car. Ground from car to motor/trans. then pick up a good ground spot near the front somewhere and mount a grounding block. Then just branch off the ground block. Any help is appreciated. TIA



Sensors need to be grounded to the head. You can run a ground wire from the head to the grounding point at the starter using a 8 or 10 gauge. From the starter to chassis ground should be 4 gauge at least.


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## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Just ground it directly to the head or block. The head is ideal.
> You can combine the ground wires into 1 if you use a larger gauge wire. 12ga would suffice for sensors.





dogger said:


> Sensors need to be grounded to the head. You can run a ground wire from the head to the grounding point at the starter using a 8 or 10 gauge. From the starter to chassis ground should be 4 gauge at least.


:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:

I guess I will have to reroute my grounds. I split most of them to ground near the trans on the frame rail.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

JMAVG60 said:


> 90 corrado G60
> 
> Having a very confusing problem. I have exhausted my ideas so far on my car. I have replaced the waterpump, waterpump housing, all coolant sensors, cooling fan, flushed coolant system, engine flush. I can feel the coolant being pushed through coolant lines and there are no leaks. I drive the car for about ten to 15 minutes with all temperatures fine before coolant light starts flashing and the temp shoots up to just over 230. I replaced thermostat about a year ago with a 170 and checked it when I did water pump last week. There is no contamination of oil and compression is still strong so its not head gasket. I dont get it. Any thoughts.


So where does it look like it is going? The coolant has to go somewhere. Either into the combustion chamber, oil, or outside.

How's the gasket on the coolant cap?
Is the exhaust smoking white? (Steam from coolant)
heater core leaking?

When you filled the coolant after servicing it did you burp the system?


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## bunkkaws (Feb 7, 2008)

JMAVG60 said:


> 90 corrado G60
> 
> Having a very confusing problem. I have exhausted my ideas so far on my car. I have replaced the waterpump, waterpump housing, all coolant sensors, cooling fan, flushed coolant system, engine flush. I can feel the coolant being pushed through coolant lines and there are no leaks. I drive the car for about ten to 15 minutes with all temperatures fine before coolant light starts flashing and the temp shoots up to just over 230. I replaced thermostat about a year ago with a 170 and checked it when I did water pump last week. There is no contamination of oil and compression is still strong so its not head gasket. I dont get it. Any thoughts.


Sounds like you have air in the system OR your radiator fans aren't working

Make sure your fan connector is connected. Next time it heats up jump out of the car and see if your fans are running. It could also be the fan control module not signaling the fans to come on. 

This happened to me as well and I found that the clip to my rad fan was broken so the connector would vibrate off causing overheating in rush hour or city driving


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## bunkkaws (Feb 7, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Push out from the inside. Smallest plugs first then the big plugs. Installation is reverse of removal.
> Why are you pulling your whole harness out to replace the fuseblock? I would just pull the fuse block connectors and leave everything else in its place.
> 
> Dielectric grease is a good idea. Even better if you can manage to pull apart the fuse block and coat the innards with it.
> ...



Thank you!

I pulled the fuse box today but decided to pull the engine wiring to rewrap the harness and inspect after finding bad wiring behind the fusebox. Also the tape on there now is just nasty. Figured that I might as well since I am already this far.

Learning quickly how a quick fix turns into a 6 month project. :laugh:


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

bunkkaws said:


> Thank you!
> 
> I pulled the fuse box today but decided to pull the engine wiring to rewrap the harness and inspect after finding bad wiring behind the fusebox. Also the tape on there now is just nasty. Figured that I might as well since I am already this far.
> 
> Learning quickly how a quick fix turns into a 6 month project. :laugh:


What are you using to re-wrap the harness?


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## bunkkaws (Feb 7, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> What are you using to re-wrap the harness?



I am planning to use 3m temflex friction tape. 180 degree resistance!

No?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

bunkkaws said:


> I am planning to use 3m temflex friction tape. 180 degree resistance!
> 
> No?


Pretty much the factory stuff. It only seems to hold up for a couple years though and tends to be messy when it goes south.

When you are done wrapping it take baby powder to the outside of the harness and it won't be sticky.

There is also 3M self healing harness tape that is a bit more expensive but holds up better.


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## jtg60 (Dec 3, 2009)

what is the small heavy brick bolted on the k frame for?should i keep it?on a g60....


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## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

Two issues...

1. Over the week my VR6 has started to kind of bog out every once in a while, I would say once per 30mins of driving, any suggestions on what the problem could be?

2. My driver side seat belt stopped working, obviously electrical, its only the drive side though, is this a case of blown fuse?

I appreciate any incite to both of these matters!

Thank you.


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## RRADO GIRLIE (Feb 2, 2009)

what do you mean a set of corrado seat belts? I have corrado seat belts and they don't lock. That is the issue with the carseat. Are you saying like a 95 has locking seatbelts? locking as in when pulled all the way out they lock up so I can secure the carseat. 

My silicone hoses are lifetime, and I havnt had any problems. Has anyone else had issues with silicone hoses or is this just your personal preference. My hoses had to be replaced, the oil and coolant mixing destroyed them regardless of all the flushing I did, with soap, etc. Was just easiest to get samco, and I really havn't heard anything but good things about them.


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## VR6 EDM (May 10, 2010)

CorradoLook'N21 said:


> Two issues...
> 
> 1. Over the week my VR6 has started to kind of bog out every once in a while, I would say once per 30mins of driving, any suggestions on what the problem could be?
> 
> ...


 Bogging could be several things... try replacing ur fuel filter to start. or try to diagnose ur problem in a little bit more in depth... as for the seatbelts, get euro seatbelts, manual....much better and you dont have to deal with the electrical issues, but if you dont have the money (which costs more than you can handle) you might want to consider getting a new belt relay.... I have one if you need it. Its behine the rear drivers door card...



RRADO GIRLIE said:


> what do you mean a set of corrado seat belts? I have corrado seat belts and they don't lock. That is the issue with the carseat. Are you saying like a 95 has locking seatbelts? locking as in when pulled all the way out they lock up so I can secure the carseat.
> 
> My silicone hoses are lifetime, and I havnt had any problems. Has anyone else had issues with silicone hoses or is this just your personal preference. My hoses had to be replaced, the oil and coolant mixing destroyed them regardless of all the flushing I did, with soap, etc. Was just easiest to get samco, and I really havn't heard anything but good things about them.


WOOOW. First off, ALL cars have locking seat belts, 2nd Samco is SH!T, YES many of us have had problems with samco, dont get them, and if you do have them, switch to OEM hoses. And if you considered getting samco as an easy way out of them being destroyed by coolant and oil being mixed maybe you should do some more "FLUSHING WITH SOAP" .... or maybe you should do some other diagnostics like considering that you gasket is blown, that would explain the oil in your coolant. Or other reasons that make sense...


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jtg60 said:


> what is the small heavy brick bolted on the k frame for?should i keep it?on a g60....


Vibration dampener







CorradoLook'N21 said:


> Two issues...
> 
> 1. Over the week my VR6 has started to kind of bog out every once in a while, I would say once per 30mins of driving, any suggestions on what the problem could be?
> 
> ...



scan the car with vag-com. Post the codes. Could be a number of things


It is probably the track binding on the seat belt. Disconnect the relay behind the driver door card now before you have a fire




RRADO GIRLIE said:


> what do you mean a set of corrado seat belts? I have corrado seat belts and they don't lock. That is the issue with the carseat. Are you saying like a 95 has locking seatbelts? locking as in when pulled all the way out they lock up so I can secure the carseat.
> 
> My silicone hoses are lifetime, and I havnt had any problems. Has anyone else had issues with silicone hoses or is this just your personal preference. My hoses had to be replaced, the oil and coolant mixing destroyed them regardless of all the flushing I did, with soap, etc. Was just easiest to get samco, and I really havn't heard anything but good things about them.


Yous aid your seat belts don't lock... as in latch right? Replace them if that's the case.

Lots of people have had issues with samco's. They get pinhole leaks because of how they are made. They don't stand up to oil very well and tend to get soggy then split and have serious issues if anything rubs against them.

Oem hoses are cheaper, last longer, and have better abrasion resistance. No brainer in my book.


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## JMAVG60 (Aug 5, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> So where does it look like it is going? The coolant has to go somewhere. Either into the combustion chamber, oil, or outside.
> 
> How's the gasket on the coolant cap?
> Is the exhaust smoking white? (Steam from coolant)
> ...


I do have steam coming from coolant cap when it does this. I did burp system multiple times. Its not that I am leaking anywhere or having to refill other than when it overheats to replace escaping steam. Maybe replacing coolant bottle and cap gasket....

Fan is kicking on. The exhaust is clear, no smoke. A friend mentioned a possibility of microfractures in the head causing air bubbles. thoughts?

getting frustrated putting money into it as I am building a motor outside car so not wanting to do much to this one....(2.1l w/p&p head upgraded internals all around, full fuel system build, BBM stage 4+)


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## VR6 EDM (May 10, 2010)

JMAVG60 said:


> I do have steam coming from coolant cap when it does this. I did burp system multiple times. Its not that I am leaking anywhere or having to refill other than when it overheats to replace escaping steam. Maybe replacing coolant bottle and cap gasket....
> 
> Fan is kicking on. The exhaust is clear, no smoke. A friend mentioned a possibility of microfractures in the head causing air bubbles. thoughts?
> 
> getting frustrated putting money into it as I am building a motor outside car so not wanting to do much to this one....(2.1l w/p&p head upgraded internals all around, full fuel system build, BBM stage 4+)


Def check the cap. There are 2 types of seals with the cap, Check the coolant tank ITSELF and see if the seal is good, then check the CAP ITSELF.


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## derjet (Jul 31, 2006)

Picked up a 93 Rado VR . Clear title, runs strong, tranny good. However it has a ton of small and big problems and I will inquire about in no particular order. 

*Problem #2*: The tilt wheel won't lock into place. It is free moving as I drive. Looking at scematics, I don't see this as a seperate part. Am I able to buy this without getting the whole column? Having the parts, I can do the work. I don't live anywhere near a big city, so salvage yards are not possible. Im at the mercy of OEM part #s and ordering online. Shops in my town? No VW dealer or specialty German service shop at all.....


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

derjet said:


> Picked up a 93 Rado VR . Clear title, runs strong, tranny good. However it has a ton of small and big problems and I will inquire about in no particular order.
> 
> *Problem #2*: The tilt wheel won't lock into place. It is free moving as I drive. Looking at scematics, I don't see this as a seperate part. Am I able to buy this without getting the whole column? Having the parts, I can do the work. I don't live anywhere near a big city, so salvage yards are not possible. Im at the mercy of OEM part #s and ordering online. Shops in my town? No VW dealer or specialty German service shop at all.....


It is all one part.

Why don't you find someone parting out a car in the classifieds and ask them to ship you a column?


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## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

derjet said:


> Picked up a 93 Rado VR . Clear title, runs strong, tranny good. However it has a ton of small and big problems and I will inquire about in no particular order.
> 
> *Problem #2*: The tilt wheel won't lock into place. It is free moving as I drive. Looking at scematics, I don't see this as a seperate part. Am I able to buy this without getting the whole column? Having the parts, I can do the work. I don't live anywhere near a big city, so salvage yards are not possible. Im at the mercy of OEM part #s and ordering online. Shops in my town? No VW dealer or specialty German service shop at all.....


I used to live in Yuma...But to help with your steering column...I am no expert, but my brothers 90 G60 had the same problem, pulled apart the plastic covering the steering internals, and there is a pin about an inch long that goes through a hole and that comes loose over time by bumps, vibrations etc... His pin was still there so we just pushed it back through the hole and it held its place from there. Hope this helps!


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## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Vibration dampener
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Can the belt tensioner on the serpentine belt on a g60 be adjusted? Or is a new tensioner required to fix a squeeling sound? And do they go bad often? Can't figure out this off and on squeel sound :banghead:


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## RRADO GIRLIE (Feb 2, 2009)

Seatbelt Latch works just fine. I'm talking about when u pull the seatbelt all the way out and it locks, and ratchets in. Then u have to release the seatbelt all the way to get it to release. The ones in the corrado don't do it. I think mk3 do I might just try to get them to work as a replacement belt. and the hoses are already in so we will just see how it goes. As if the car gets driven enough anyways


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

derjet said:


> Picked up a 93 Rado VR . Clear title, runs strong, tranny good. However it has a ton of small and big problems and I will inquire about in no particular order.
> 
> *Problem #2*: The tilt wheel won't lock into place. It is free moving as I drive. Looking at scematics, I don't see this as a seperate part. Am I able to buy this without getting the whole column? Having the parts, I can do the work. I don't live anywhere near a big city, so salvage yards are not possible. Im at the mercy of OEM part #s and ordering online. Shops in my town? No VW dealer or specialty German service shop at all.....


If you had opened the column cover and looked for the problem, you would have seen the pin for the tilt wheel latch has backed out. Push it back in, and all tilt will be restored.


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## CorradoLook'N21 (Sep 30, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> If you had opened the column cover and looked for the problem, you would have seen the pin for the tilt wheel latch has backed out. Push it back in, and all tilt will be restored.



^^^

:thumbup::beer:


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

g60301 said:


> Can the belt tensioner on the serpentine belt on a g60 be adjusted? Or is a new tensioner required to fix a squeeling sound? And do they go bad often? Can't figure out this off and on squeel sound :banghead:


The oe g60 belt tensioner can not be adjusted (that's why they sell different lenght belts for when changing pulley size). 

1) But, you can buy a "cap" (BBM sells this) that is fitted on the oe tensioner and allows you to run some adjustments....
http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/471/BBM_Billet_Tensioner_Cap
or
http://www.bar-tek-tuning.com/cgi-b...60033&file=4&gesamt_zeilen=0Tsuche--tensioner

2) You can also buy adjustable complete billet tensioners.
For example: http://www.bar-tek-tuning.com/cgi-b...60109&file=6&gesamt_zeilen=0Tsuche--tensioner









3) What goes bad on oe g60 belt tensioner are the bushings. I'm not sure if you can buy this separetely, but they sell billet replacements (bushings). 
http://www.epmtuned.com/id274.html

I had a set of those ^^ but didn't install them in the end and decided to buy the bullet and buy a complete new genuine belt tensioner from the stealership ($$$ ). I had a similar "squeeling" sound on mine (do a search on my s/n started threads) -* make sure your plastic idler is not your issue (mine was - had a crack on it)*. I replaced both parts at the same time so can't say for sure which one cured my issue


----------



## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

FIRE! haha So my G60 has been spitting some oil toward the back of the engine for a couple days and it's been getting worse. Well, today I'm working on an unrelated issue, and it's running in my driveway for awhile and a small fire breaks out kind of under the SC. Was wondering if it was most likely the SC blowing oil onto the exhaust manifold. And also wondering if the engine can run ok with the SC not hooked up for a little. Kind of my daily right now. Thanks in advance!


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Thank you red yellow white:beer:


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

twoteks said:


> FIRE! haha So my G60 has been spitting some oil toward the back of the engine for a couple days and it's been getting worse. Well, today I'm working on an unrelated issue, and it's running in my driveway for awhile and a small fire breaks out kind of under the SC. Was wondering if it was most likely the SC blowing oil onto the exhaust manifold. And also wondering if the engine can run ok with the SC not hooked up for a little. Kind of my daily right now. Thanks in advance!


1st you need to find what leaking and fix it. Leaking charger feed line could be the the problem, other leaks could be from oil pressure sensor, oil cooler seal, intermited shaft seal,valve cover, oil pan,cam seal. Also check your fuel lines,and fuel rail. 

You can run the with charger bypass, it's going be really sluggish without boost. 80hp. When was last this charger been rebuilt, if not, ticking bomb, gerande, she blows :laugh:


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## 91JETTAboy (Mar 16, 2008)

*corrado fuel line!*

hey guys i have a quick question for some who knows alot about corrados. Recently my fuel pump stopped working and i found that the ground wire the pump was disconnected! So i reconnected it (not to mention i put a new end on the ground wire inside the tank) put it back on the lid to the tank and ended up breaking the return fuel line on it. Usuallly i would be on my way and just fix the line because it is too short to reach the tank now but the end of the line that broke has some sort of fuel do-dad inside the line. Iwas told its just a resistor for the return to the tank but i was thinkin maybe something of importance. If anyone knows where i can order this small piece or if its necessary to keep or if it would be okay just to run the line without it. Thanks, James. Le picture...


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

so my passenger side window hasnt worked since i bought the car and never really looked into it until now....

when i hit the switch, i hear a clicking sound coming from the driver side rear panel... how can i fix this issue?

driver side window works no prob, sunroof all the automatic stuff thats supposed to work, works... except the passenger side window. any ideas???


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## hubbell (Oct 30, 2001)

the click is from the window motor relay. u still need to check the window motor itself and see if it will move. its prob bad and you just need a new one.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

g60301 said:


> Thank you red yellow white:beer:


No problem :beer:


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## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

eurobred said:


> so my passenger side window hasnt worked since i bought the car and never really looked into it until now....
> 
> when i hit the switch, i hear a clicking sound coming from the driver side rear panel... how can i fix this issue?
> 
> driver side window works no prob, sunroof all the automatic stuff thats supposed to work, works... except the passenger side window. any ideas???


Try swapping the switches aswell as what euro bred said, I have the same issue. I swapped window control module (where you hear the click ) and still didn't fix my problem, it ended up being the window regulator it self. I hear it's a pain in the ass to install a new one. That's why mine is still broken :laugh:


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## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

RRADO GIRLIE said:


> Seatbelt Latch works just fine. I'm talking about when u pull the seatbelt all the way out and it locks, and ratchets in. Then u have to release the seatbelt all the way to get it to release. The ones in the corrado don't do it. I think mk3 do I might just try to get them to work as a replacement belt. and the hoses are already in so we will just see how it goes. As if the car gets driven enough anyways


 I dailied my '92 for almost eight years with Samcos, and had no problems. Replacing an entire set of OEM hoses with new OEM hoses would easily cost twice what a set of Samcos cost. Plus, if you contact Samco directly you can buy hoses individually if you get a leak. I wouldn't worry about it too much.


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## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

eurobred said:


> so my passenger side window hasnt worked since i bought the car and never really looked into it until now....
> 
> when i hit the switch, i hear a clicking sound coming from the driver side rear panel... how can i fix this issue?
> 
> driver side window works no prob, sunroof all the automatic stuff thats supposed to work, works... except the passenger side window. any ideas???


 Your regulator is most likely shot.


----------



## paul610 (Oct 26, 2010)

i was thinking about getting a samco hose set for my 12v vr6 and i was just wondering if id see any hp increase?

or would some lightened pulleys be better for bolt on hp

:beer::beer:


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## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

I want to do a compression check tomorrow, never done one before I know the basics in performing the check, should I pull the fuel pump relay to cut fuel or is there a more proper way of doing this. Thanks in advance. opcorn:


----------



## paul610 (Oct 26, 2010)

g60301 said:


> I want to do a compression check tomorrow, never done one before I know the basics in performing the check, should I pull the fuel pump relay to cut fuel or is there a more proper way of doing this. Thanks in advance. opcorn:



the relay should work just fine:thumbup:


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

paul610 said:


> i was thinking about getting a samco hose set for my 12v vr6 and i was just wondering if id see any hp increase?
> 
> or would some lightened pulleys be better for bolt on hp
> 
> :beer::beer:


 The red ones are good for 15 to 20 HP, the other colors about 5... */S*


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

NoCYet said:


> The red ones are good for 15 to 20 HP, the other colors about 5... */S*


:what:


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> :what:


Aww c'mon he was asking for it...


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

*lol soo...*

i bought a slc rear beam for my g60 cuz there was only a corrado slc part out here in miami and didn't want to pay for shipping on a 60lbs rear beam. Now i have to put longer hard lines for the brakes and the ones that came on the slc are still to short as for the g60 hard lines. i found out that Napa sells heard lines for a couple of bucks are they universal? Can i just buy any hard line and just bolt it up in the car? I know i have to bend them to the right length and all so whats up? :beer:


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

NoCYet said:


> Your regulator is most likely shot.


and the regulator is located on the driver side for both windows? just trying to understand if the passenger side window doesnt work, why it clicks on the driver side.

is the regulator located behind the door card?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

paul610 said:


> i was thinking about getting a samco hose set for my 12v vr6 and i was just wondering if id see any hp increase?...


:sly:  :what: :screwy: :banghead: :facepalm:


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## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

^^^ :laugh:depends on what color hoses you get.


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## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

eurobred said:


> and the regulator is located on the driver side for both windows? just trying to understand if the passenger side window doesnt work, why it clicks on the driver side.
> 
> is the regulator located behind the door card?


 No, the regulator it the motor assembly in the door that moves the window up and down.


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

NoCYet said:


> No, the regulator it the motor assembly in the door that moves the window up and down.


ok but any idea why it clicks on the driver side if the regulator is in the door?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

eurobred said:


> ok but any idea why it clicks on the driver side if the regulator is in the door?



The window Relay behind the rear panel is what you hear clicking.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

eurobred said:


> ok but any idea why it clicks on the driver side if the regulator is in the door?


Because the control module with the relay is on the driver side of the car.


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## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

G60Ron said:


> i bought a slc rear beam for my g60 cuz there was only a corrado slc part out here in miami and didn't want to pay for shipping on a 60lbs rear beam. Now i have to put longer hard lines for the brakes and the ones that came on the slc are still to short as for the g60 hard lines. i found out that Napa sells heard lines for a couple of bucks are they universal? Can i just buy any hard line and just bolt it up in the car? I know i have to bend them to the right length and all so whats up? :beer:


Any ideas?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

G60Ron said:


> Any ideas?


You also need different mounting brackets.

You can use normal brake line from the autoparts store. Make sure you use a bubble flare tool for the ends. A normal flare will not work with VW fittings.


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

just finished heater core on vr6 - can't identify this plug (or where it plugs into)










is part of the harness that goes to the heater box


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

Can someone please direct me where to get the plug for the master cylinder when doing the non abs swap. Oichans part numbers arent pulling anything up. There are different variations of master cylinder plugs that come up in a search and I just want to get the right one the first time. TIA


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> Can someone please direct me where to get the plug for the master cylinder when doing the non abs swap. Oichans part numbers arent pulling anything up. There are different variations of master cylinder plugs that come up in a search and I just want to get the right one the first time. TIA


I was selling these for some time and think I may have 1 left, I would just need to locate it. IIRC, it is a 10mm pipe plug.


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## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I was selling these for some time and think I may have 1 left, I would just need to locate it. IIRC, it is a 10mm pipe plug.


Awesome. Shoot me a pm if you got one. Thanks :beer:


----------



## mattsgota325i (Mar 2, 2006)

having issues with my ignition not locking in the on position recently... before my car would start and I would just have to ease back to set it in the on position.. (wouldn't just stop there itself if I let go of the key) now my car won't start at all.. still get power when I turn the key any ideas on what I need to purchase.. over the winter replaced both the starter and battery because of other issues.. personaly think its the ignition lock system but wanted more opinions


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

clearance required between the oil pump and the bottom of the oil pan? 3/4"?


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## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

If Chad doesn't hook you up, you can find them on amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G3KXE8





ItsNotaScirocco said:


> Can someone please direct me where to get the plug for the master cylinder when doing the non abs swap. Oichans part numbers arent pulling anything up. There are different variations of master cylinder plugs that come up in a search and I just want to get the right one the first time. TIA


----------



## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

Replace the ignition switch. Very common problem for our cars.

Lloyd




mattsgota325i said:


> having issues with my ignition not locking in the on position recently... before my car would start and I would just have to ease back to set it in the on position.. (wouldn't just stop there itself if I let go of the key) now my car won't start at all.. still get power when I turn the key any ideas on what I need to purchase.. over the winter replaced both the starter and battery because of other issues.. personaly think its the ignition lock system but wanted more opinions


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

which is the right intake manifold gasket for a 1990 corrado g60?

thanks:thumbup::thumbup:


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## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

tonyg60 said:


> which is the right intake manifold gasket for a 1990 corrado g60?
> 
> thanks:thumbup::thumbup:


The one that's circled on the left


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

tonyg60 said:


> which is the right intake manifold gasket for a 1990 corrado g60?
> 
> thanks:thumbup::thumbup:


I think the one on the left is a 91+ G60 intake manifold gasket and the one on the right is a -90 G60 intake manifold gasket so if I'm correct it looks like you need the one on the right...


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> Awesome. Shoot me a pm if you got one. Thanks :beer:


Just found it. :thumbup:



lmurray said:


> If Chad doesn't hook you up, you can find them on amazon.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G3KXE8


I have the "set" screw style


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## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Just found it. :thumbup:


 Money sent! you have pm


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> Money sent! you have pm


Werd :thumbup:

It will go out in the mail tomorrow


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## Hemingway'sToe (Feb 13, 2009)

*Seatbelts YAY!*

Not the usual seatbelt problem. Maybe someone has the ansnwer at their finger tips.

My pass side seat belt moves just fine, but doesn't go down when the door is opened, only when the key is removed from ignition. Dome light does go on when pass door is opened...

So relays are good, motor and track are good, but I'm having an issue with the door sensor connected to the motor, but it's not the same as the one the dome light uses on front side of the door.

Anyone run into this before?


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## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

Can I just depin all the egr and pcv wires from the ecu end of the wire harness? Or are they linked to other stuff that won't work if these wire are depined?


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## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

*Need help please*

1990 corrado g60

I have a really bad idle. When I remove the blue temp sensor the cars idles and runs fine. Plug it back in it starts running like **** again. Checked spark plugs and they are black. Also running 45 psi on the fpr. 

Thanks in advance


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## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> I think the one on the left is a 91+ G60 intake manifold gasket and the one on the right is a -90 G60 intake manifold gasket so if I'm correct it looks like you need the one on the right...


Thanks I put the 91 gasket on it I guess cause I saw that my original head had the same one on. Will this cause any problems by using this gasket.


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## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

Hemingway'sToe said:


> Not the usual seatbelt problem. Maybe someone has the ansnwer at their finger tips.
> 
> My pass side seat belt moves just fine, but doesn't go down when the door is opened, only when the key is removed from ignition. Dome light does go on when pass door is opened...
> 
> ...


 It's never happened to me, but when I was pulling the seatbelt harness out of my car, I remember there is a two wire plug the goes into the door over to the latch that signals the seat belt system when you open the door. The wire colors are green with a yellow stripe, and brown. the plug itself is way up behind the fuse box on the drivers side. 
so either you have a break in that part of the system, it's unplugged, or the switch in the latch has a problem.


----------



## IMWALKIN (Mar 28, 2002)

the previous owner removed the ac from a 90 g60...except the wiring..can i (safely)remove all the wiring/fuses/relays.. attached with the system without affecting anything? per the bent "n", green is the wiring harness.. just trying to track down some electrical demons..and do not feel like feeding them...thank you!!!


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

NoCYet said:


> It's never happened to me, but when I was pulling the seatbelt harness out of my car, I remember there is a two wire plug the goes into the door over to the latch that signals the seat belt system when you open the door. The wire colors are green with a yellow stripe, and brown. the plug itself is way up behind the fuse box on the drivers side.
> so either you have a break in that part of the system, it's unplugged, or the switch in the latch has a problem.


:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Door latches are starting to go bad like clockwork. Corrado's are still nowhere near as bad as MK4's. :banghead:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

I recently bought a battery cut-off switch (more like a quick release clamp really)
It came with fitting instructions which I didn't bother to read/follow since it such an simple install. 
I connected it to the positive (+) battery lead but the instructions it came with (read them afterwards) said to connect it to the negative (-) battery lead - can someone please explain why? Should I follow their instructions or stick with how I connected it?

TIA
-Nick


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> I recently bought a battery cut-off switch (more like a quick release clamp really)
> It came with fitting instructions which I didn't bother to read/follow since it such an simple install.
> I connected it to the positive (+) battery lead but the instructions it came with (read them afterwards) said to connect it to the negative (-) battery lead - can someone please explain why? Should I follow their instructions or stick with how I connected it?
> 
> ...


Shouldn't really matter, but you are "supposed" to remove your neg, then pos :thumbup:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Shouldn't really matter, but you are "supposed" to remove your neg, then pos :thumbup:


Thanks man :beer:

The thing is that with said battery cut-off switch/quick release clamp, you don't have to remove any terminals anymore - just turn the knob 1/4 and it cuts power, turn it 1/4 the other way and power back on


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Thanks man :beer:
> 
> The thing is that with said battery cut-off switch/quick release clamp, you don't have to remove any terminals anymore - just turn the knob 1/4 and it cuts power, turn it 1/4 the other way and power back on


Sounds like the one I have in my boat, it is on the positive cable as well :thumbup:


----------



## drew93slc (Apr 5, 2010)

So a noob here looking for some advidce.
I have a 93 corrado slc that has sat for about a year without being driven.

Existing Problems to be fixed:
control arm bushings and ball joints while im at it
tons of body work

Questions:
what all must I have re-done after sitting for so long?
any advice on tracking down a front driver side fender?
tia-drew


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Drew, 
Honestly a year undriven isn't all that long. I would say that it never hurts to replace your spark plugs, wires & fuel filter. You could even replace your rear wheel bearings depending on mileage.
My car sat for 5+ years before it came to my ownership. The car will tell you what it needs replaced. I'm pretty sure that is how most of the vortexperts approach their corrado.
Now while you are replacing the ball joints and bushings. 
You COULD.... Take off the control arms IF they are rusty.... Remove the rust, and paint um up with some rust resistant paint in a rattle can. 
Like I said. Corrados don't hide their issues. Your car will tell you what it needs.
Welcome to Hell...


----------



## drew93slc (Apr 5, 2010)

i believe most of those things are good since the car was upgraded to coil overs a few years ago. Good to know that sitting that long isnt so bad. I imagine i would at least have to drain the gas? what else can I expect? besides a new battery of course


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

drew93slc said:


> i believe most of those things are good since the car was upgraded to coil overs a few years ago. Good to know that sitting that long isnt so bad. I imagine i would at least have to drain the gas? what else can I expect? besides a new battery of course


 Drain the gas and put fresh stuff in. Higher octane = better. I would put Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner in your first tank or two. You could even use seafoam. Someone on here will flame me for saying that but I have never had problems wit seafoam in my VWs. 
Fresh oil change...
A couple of preventative maintenance items below for giggles.
Coolant flush
Replace Trans fluid. MT90 works and is available on www.germanautoparts.com


----------



## drew93slc (Apr 5, 2010)

so im an idiot ... I go to start buying parts and remember that the car had more front end issues. the reason why I stopped driving it besides loosing my license of course was that a raccoon fell in love with my front right tire as i was driving down the road. maddened by love and determined to be together, the smitten raccoon made a dash for the tire  natural progression dictates there is now dead raccoon dreaming of my corrado tire and those beautiful phone dial rims and every time I make a hard left turn the tire rubs :banghead: is this likely to simply be an alignment issue? or will I have to do some more snooping around the front end to see if something is bent/broken? Upon cursory inspection everything looks fairly normal


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

drew93slc said:


> so im an idiot ... I go to start buying parts and remember that the car had more front end issues. the reason why I stopped driving it besides loosing my license of course was that a raccoon fell in love with my front right tire as i was driving down the road. maddened by love and determined to be together, the smitten raccoon made a dash for the tire  natural progression dictates there is now dead raccoon dreaming of my corrado tire and those beautiful phone dial rims and every time I make a hard left turn the tire rubs :banghead: is this likely to simply be an alignment issue? or will I have to do some more snooping around the front end to see if something is bent/broken? Upon cursory inspection everything looks fairly normal


There are now at least two Raccoons in critter heaven dreaming of the front end of a 93 slc.

Edit: I understand that didn't answer your question, but I don't know how to answer your question, so maybe it messed up the fender liner?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

drew93slc said:


> so im an idiot ... I go to start buying parts and remember that the car had more front end issues. the reason why I stopped driving it besides loosing my license of course was that a raccoon fell in love with my front right tire as i was driving down the road. maddened by love and determined to be together, the smitten raccoon made a dash for the tire  natural progression dictates there is now dead raccoon dreaming of my corrado tire and those beautiful phone dial rims and every time I make a hard left turn the tire rubs :banghead: is this likely to simply be an alignment issue? or will I have to do some more snooping around the front end to see if something is bent/broken? Upon cursory inspection everything looks fairly normal


Check to see if you bent a control arm, Check to see what is rubbing on the tire.


----------



## drew93slc (Apr 5, 2010)

so after sitting for a while the steering column no longer locks in place. It just bounces around up or down with no resistance naturally wanting to stay in the top position. has any one experienced this before? Im a bit leery of tearing apart my interior so any direction would be much appreciated tia


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

drew93slc said:


> so after sitting for a while the steering column no longer locks in place. It just bounces around up or down with no resistance naturally wanting to stay in the top position. has any one experienced this before? Im a bit leery of tearing apart my interior so any direction would be much appreciated tia


 Open the column cover, and push the tilt wheel pin back in on the right side, They come out. 

Do you have a Bentley manual?


----------



## drew93slc (Apr 5, 2010)

unfortunately I do not have a bentley manual. :banghead: how do i open the column cover?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

drew93slc said:


> unfortunately I do not have a bentley manual. :banghead: how do i open the column cover?


Only have to remove the lower part of the column cover - There's 3 bolts for the lower part, unbolt those and carefully pull it 


































Do invest in a Bentley Corrado manual


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> and carefully pull it
> 
> Do invest in a Bentley Corrado manual


Be very careful as they have clips that love to break, you may need to squeeze the plastic one way or another around each clip to aviod breaking them :thumbup:

Werd on the Bentley :beer:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Be very careful as they have clips that love to break, you may need to squeeze the plastic one way or another around each clip to aviod breaking them :thumbup:
> 
> Werd on the Bentley :beer:


I can vouch on that :thumbup: That's why I said "carefully"


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Only have to remove the lower part of the column cover - There's 3 bolts for the lower part, unbolt those and carefully pull it
> 
> 
> 
> ...


This helps with getting the cover off, but the pin is on the right side of the column.
:thumbup:

You need a Bentley Manual STAT.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> I can vouch on that :thumbup: That's why I said "carefully"


:beer:


----------



## mattsgota325i (Mar 2, 2006)

replacing the ignition switch in my car.. ran into a small problem.. i have the wheel and end of the column off aswell as the rest of the plastics etc. i took out the 2 bolts on the left side to split the housing.. i cant get it to slide out so that i can take the small screw out to replace the switch. what am i doing wrong? or am i supposed to whodini the ****

any help would be appreciated thanks matt


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

mattsgota325i said:


> replacing the ignition switch in my car.. ran into a small problem.. i have the wheel and end of the column off aswell as the rest of the plastics etc. i took out the 2 bolts on the left side to split the housing.. i cant get it to slide out so that i can take the small screw out to replace the switch. what am i doing wrong? or am i supposed to whodini the ****
> 
> any help would be appreciated thanks matt


It's a bitch to get out. It took me almost a half hour on my back under the dash. It helps if you take out your drivers seat and lay there. You're probably doing it right... It's just a pain in the ayrse


----------



## mattsgota325i (Mar 2, 2006)

TheLateJetta said:


> It's a bitch to get out. It took me almost a half hour on my back under the dash. It helps if you take out your drivers seat and lay there. You're probably doing it right... It's just a pain in the ayrse


damn i really didnt want to hear that.. hahaha took me about 15mins to get down to there.. but i fussed with it for about an hr or so.. but my hands are to big to get in there and turn a screw driver


----------



## drew93slc (Apr 5, 2010)

thanks for the info on everything now im just looking for the time to get to it!


----------



## c-lab (Nov 18, 2010)

*Coolant temp???*

I've got a question about my 90 G60 Rado. When I turn the key on with the engine cold the gauge come right up to about 200 degrees- even if it's 35 degrees outside. I've tried a different instrument cluster and a new blue temp sensor. Even when I unplug all the sensors the temp still jumps right up. I'm a technician at a Chevy dealership but so I have a decent understanding of things, I just don't know Corrados well enough. Thank you in advance.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

c-lab said:


> I've got a question about my 90 G60 Rado. When I turn the key on with the engine cold the gauge come right up to about 200 degrees- even if it's 35 degrees outside. I've tried a different instrument cluster and a new blue temp sensor. Even when I unplug all the sensors the temp still jumps right up. I'm a technician at a Chevy dealership but so I have a decent understanding of things, I just don't know Corrados well enough. Thank you in advance.


You didn't change out the correct temp sensor. Blue is for the ECU and Black one is for the cluster.


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## c-lab (Nov 18, 2010)

Ok thanks for the info. With the black temp sensor unplugged the gauge still comes right up. Is that normal?


----------



## drew93slc (Apr 5, 2010)

what year passat do i need to find to get the glass sun roof out of to fit the rado?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

drew93slc said:


> what year passat do i need to find to get the glass sun roof out of to fit the rado?


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...nroof-Swap-amp-Headliner-Removal-DIY-Tutorial

C'mon son. 

Plus, many questions yo new guys have, Search GOOGLE FIRST!!!! Cause OMG most of the questions you have, already been covered. :thumbup:


----------



## RRADO GIRLIE (Feb 2, 2009)

OKay so I have a solution to my carseat issue. We got latch bars from audi. Now we are going to have to weld them in. I assume the safest thing is to weld a nut to a plate, and weld the plate onto the car, with bolts attaching them. Anyone do this kind of thing before?? I know someone is doing it to their mk3 at the moment. Is there any problems Im going to run into with the back seat?


----------



## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

Right tool helps.

I used this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-screwdriver-set-92193.html

(Long skinny phillips)

Might help to bend it a bit.

gl



mattsgota325i said:


> damn i really didnt want to hear that.. hahaha took me about 15mins to get down to there.. but i fussed with it for about an hr or so.. but my hands are to big to get in there and turn a screw driver


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

1990 corrado g60

i was wondering if i could swap ecu's from another g60 or does it have to be a specific one?

and if i check the fuel injectors for ohm's through the wiring harness , will the ohms be different if they were clogged or is this test just to check if the wiring is OK?

oh and car runs better when blue temp sensor is disconnected. :facepalm:

thanks


----------



## Pinepig (Jul 9, 2001)

tonyg60 said:


> 1990 corrado g60
> 
> i was wondering if i could swap ecu's from another g60 or does it have to be a specific one?
> 
> ...


Most g60 ecu's are the same, there is an oddball California only one.

Ohming the injectors just tell you if the injector coils ( electromagnet that makes them work ) are OK, it will not tell you if they are clogged.

Timing is way off if BTS is unplugged and car runs better, replace BTS and retime car.


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

Pigsdofly said:


> Most g60 ecu's are the same, there is an oddball California only one.
> 
> Ohming the injectors just tell you if the injector coils ( electromagnet that makes them work ) are OK, it will not tell you if they are clogged.
> 
> Timing is way off if BTS is unplugged and car runs better, replace BTS and retime car.



Thanks for the help will check timing. Well one question what's the deal with the intermediate pulley? How do I align it? And some people say make sure that the distributor rotor is pointing at #1. Or should it e at the slot in the housing at tdc. Also read that once disconnecting the bts you should rev a couple of times to set the ecu on service mode. 

Thanks again


----------



## Pinepig (Jul 9, 2001)

tonyg60 said:


> Thanks for the help will check timing. Well one question what's the deal with the intermediate pulley? How do I align it? And some people say make sure that the distributor rotor is pointing at #1. Or should it e at the slot in the housing at tdc. Also read that once disconnecting the bts you should rev a couple of times to set the ecu on service mode.
> 
> Thanks again


There are several different offset intermediate pulleys for VW's, ( if you are talking the timing tensioner pulley ) bet you have the wrong one, purchase a new one.

As for timing, post # 18 my good man,

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1486100-G60-Tuning-and-Common-G60-Info


----------



## reborndub (Jun 18, 2009)

*proportion valve?*

here a prop valve question for the experts, though i think i know what the answer is.
1990 G60 w/abs.

im getting ready to order one and all suppliers on here only offer a NON-ABS one. Napa and other A/P store sites list both.

now what im thinking is, there is no difference in function between the 2 and i can use a NON-ABS valve in place of the OE stock one. since it is a low tech 3 channel abs system i just dont see how the prop valve has any effect on the abs.

am i right? or wrong?

thoughts........ TIA!!!


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

reborndub said:


> here a prop valve question for the experts, though i think i know what the answer is.
> 1990 G60 w/abs.
> 
> im getting ready to order one and all suppliers on here only offer a NON-ABS one. Napa and other A/P store sites list both.
> ...



There is only one. For ABS cars there is a plug in one of the ports. Non-ABS cars don't use the plug.


----------



## reborndub (Jun 18, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> There is only one. For ABS cars there is a plug in one of the ports. Non-ABS cars don't use the plug.


im sorry i should have been more specfic.:facepalm: the rear prop valve(rear beam),not the one up front.


----------



## drew93slc (Apr 5, 2010)

so mechanic got all the fluids drained and the tank dropped ... apparently the fuel sending unit is no good! can I get another one? should I just replace the whole pump or will that not fix the problem? I refuse to ride and not know how much gas I have :banghead: at least the front end refresh kit came and will be slapped on! i might just get to drive the c for the first time in over a year tomorrow on my one day off!


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

drew93slc said:


> so mechanic got all the fluids drained and the tank dropped ... apparently the fuel sending unit is no good! can I get another one? should I just replace the whole pump or will that not fix the problem? I refuse to ride and not know how much gas I have :banghead: at least the front end refresh kit came and will be slapped on! i might just get to drive the c for the first time in over a year tomorrow on my one day off!


You might have to change the WHOLE unit sender/pump as the VDO Sending Unit does not fit the Original Pump. The Updated pump is VDO and Corrado has a Specific 4 Bar Pump. Make sure you do not get a 3 Bar.


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## drew93slc (Apr 5, 2010)

ok thanks for the info thankfully my furniture ware house is next to an auto parts ware house so how will I know I have all the parts I need? he just has new pumps will that have the whole set up? 

another question for some reason my front suspension re-fresh kit didnt come with sway bar linkages any suggestion on were i can find em?

-tia 
-Drew


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

drew93slc said:


> ok thanks for the info thankfully my furniture ware house is next to an auto parts ware house so how will I know I have all the parts I need? he just has new pumps will that have the whole set up?
> 
> another question for some reason my front suspension re-fresh kit didnt come with sway bar linkages any suggestion on were i can find em?
> 
> ...


A new pump should have the sender on it. You should be able to tell right out of the box.

TheDubnutz (www.tdnparts.com), GAP, 4seasontuning, MJM


----------



## drew93slc (Apr 5, 2010)

thanks for all the info just got a great price on the whole set up new from a shop in town. for any one is sw florida vap motorsports is def. the spot for your ride!


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

My last question I had was about my headlight harness and I was giving the great advice of just buying a new plug and soldering it in. My question now is couldn't you do the same for your ecodes so you wouldn't have to swap the whole harness?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Tk2g60 said:


> Here's a question ive been pondering since the last one I asked about my headlight harness.
> If you get ecodes you need a different headlight harness for the ecodes. My question is can't you just cut the old plugs and buy the proper plugs for the bulbs that would fit the ecodes and solder in the new plug on old harness?


Because we do not want to burn our cars to the ground. The E Codes have a different harness for a reason. 

Eurowires or build a relayed harness or burn the car to the ground. I have 2 E-code Plugs if you want to use at your own risk.


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Because we do not want to burn our cars to the ground. The E Codes have a different harness for a reason.
> 
> Eurowires or build a relayed harness or burn the car to the ground. I have 2 E-code Plugs if you want to use at your own risk.


:thumbup: just checking cause it seemed like a much simpler way to do it. But I figured there had to be a reason why it wasn't done like that. Thanks,:beer: now I can stop thinking about it.


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

So I got a crunch in my door on my late 91 G60 corrado. I have a 90 G60 door that I was going to put on the car. Problem is the wiring is all different. I though i could just plug and play, but of course that wont work since the plugs are different. So I thought to myself, no worries I just splice the new harness plugs on the older door. Oh but wait... the wires are even different colors. Thankfully the power window wires are the same for the motor, but the rest I cant seem to match up.

I've looked through my bentley and I cant seem to make heads or tails of what colors are what in the door harness. When I look at the diagrams and find what I think I need... I cant then find that color in the door or under the dash.


All I need are the power mirror wiring colors, and power lock colors for a 91 and a 90 door.

Can someone help me out?


----------



## Vdubspot (Dec 3, 2011)

*Hub/Knuckle?*

I'm parting out my 92 vr6 slc and my friend just let me know that hes in need of a right front hub/knuckle. My front suspension is still all in one piece so my question is what exactly are the hub and knuckle that I need to take off and how much are they worth?(yes i am serious) I had trouble finding answers elsewhere so any help will be greatly appreciated. thanks.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Vdubspot said:


> I'm parting out my 92 vr6 slc and my friend just let me know that hes in need of a right front hub/knuckle. My front suspension is still all in one piece so my question is what exactly are the hub and knuckle that I need to take off and how much are they worth?(yes i am serious) I had trouble finding answers elsewhere so any help will be greatly appreciated. thanks.


Hub is the part that is drilled for the lugbolts and hosts the wheel bearing, the knuckle is the part that holds the hub in place and turns when you turn your steering wheel. Worth about $25 IMHO, I keep a spare set laying around just for easier bearing swaps


----------



## Vdubspot (Dec 3, 2011)

*hub/knuckle*

thanks for the help.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Vdubspot said:


> thanks for the help.


:thumbup:


----------



## Hemingway'sToe (Feb 13, 2009)

*Car dies suddenly at warm up.*

Reminder: 90' 16V G60 running on BBM chipped digi.

Car starts right up when cold, warms up and dies suddenly. It seems like as soon as the ECU can tell the car is getting warm enough to run the ECU stops spark. 

The car was starting to have an odd idle so I thought my timing was a little too advanced, went to go do the ignition timing and car wouldn't stay running warm. 

Thoughts?

I need to install my adjustable cam gear, so will be doing the timing from the start again, but wanted to see if anybody had a quick aha! There are too many "help my car won't run" threads to make search useful, thought I'd post here to see if there was a quick answer.

With the slew of things I've tried, I'm thinking I might have a corrupted CMU.


----------



## drew93slc (Apr 5, 2010)

so I purchased the new fuel pump and sending unit and yes they are the correct ones for my 93 slc. (same as the ones in the previous link on this thread) when going in to replace the set up, the old unit does not match the new one. for lack of a better way to describe the set up, the sending unit has a weird finger shaped housing with the wires soldered on. the mechanic said i got the wrong parts. i know i know i should have had a real vw mechanic work on it as opposed to my friend who specializes in off road vehicles but its so much cheaper!  any way how can i get this new set up to work? tia for all the info i have received here i look forward to posting up some pics of my c once some more work gets rolling on it!


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Hemingway'sToe said:


> Reminder: 90' 16V G60 running on BBM chipped digi.
> 
> Car starts right up when cold, warms up and dies suddenly. It seems like as soon as the ECU can tell the car is getting warm enough to run the ECU stops spark.
> 
> ...


Had similar issues on my mk2. Ended up being a bad hall sender in the dizzy.


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## Hemingway'sToe (Feb 13, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Had similar issues on my mk2. Ended up being a bad hall sender in the dizzy.


Thanks, I'll check that out.


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## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

Got a question for the wheels guys? I don't know anything on fitment of wheels etc.
Will these wheels fit a G60 Corrado with fenders that are pulled? 
Heres the specs
18x9.5 et50 all around.
5x120 (BMW fitment)
72.56 hub bore

Any help is appreciated, :thumbup: Thanks Mario ///


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## eavalos15 (Oct 9, 2011)

hey guys failed finding a radio harness for a 1990 so last resource is here..... any of you guys have it one in good condition?


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## rybroG60 (Sep 28, 2011)

*sunroof issue*

my sunroof in my G60 will only open it won't slide back need help

also I was wondering could I replace the panel in the sunroof with glass from a B3? or would I need to buy a whole assembly 

thanks


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## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

You need to fix the part that's broken. Look on the slider assembly, you'll see a chrome piece that it snapped. You need to replace that - or the cable. 

Easiest swap would be to replace the entire assembly from a b3/b4 passat. Just replacing the glass will not fix your problem. 

Just search, there are MANY threads about this.



rybroG60 said:


> my sunroof in my G60 will only open it won't slide back need help
> 
> also I was wondering could I replace the panel in the sunroof with glass from a B3? or would I need to buy a whole assembly
> 
> thanks


----------



## RRADO GIRLIE (Feb 2, 2009)

This is a long shot. But before we did the new motor in the car, when u dropped the clutch say like going over speed bumps or creeping in general, it made this clicking noise. I dont know how else to describe it. It went away and now its back. but really loud. like something is loose. We replaced a ton of stuff including the throwout bearing during the motor. Zack is almost certain its coming from behind the block. Motor mounts aren't loose, no leaking from the cvs thats visable. Think it could be the throwout b again? or is it possible its my transmission? I also have a bolt broken off into the transmission that was welded somehow to help it from doing something* (no clue here sorry I think mount bolt? ) would this effect anything if the weld came off? 

I also have a mechanical humming/rubbing noise when driving. I noticed it on the freeway all the sudden one day. it will randomly do it while driving, often. and if i do swervies in the road its louder and constant when turning to the right. Im assuming this is probably a berring. just havn't checked em out fully yet. Im hoping that noise is not the trans as well. 

If anyones got ideas would help greatly  thanks.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RRADO GIRLIE said:


> This is a long shot. But before we did the new motor in the car, when u dropped the clutch say like going over speed bumps or creeping in general, it made this clicking noise. I dont know how else to describe it. It went away and now its back. but really loud. like something is loose. We replaced a ton of stuff including the throwout bearing during the motor. Zack is almost certain its coming from behind the block. Motor mounts aren't loose, no leaking from the cvs thats visable. Think it could be the throwout b again? or is it possible its my transmission? I also have a bolt broken off into the transmission that was welded somehow to help it from doing something* (no clue here sorry I think mount bolt? ) would this effect anything if the weld came off?
> 
> I also have a mechanical humming/rubbing noise when driving. I noticed it on the freeway all the sudden one day. it will randomly do it while driving, often. and if i do swervies in the road its louder and constant when turning to the right. Im assuming this is probably a berring. just havn't checked em out fully yet. Im hoping that noise is not the trans as well.
> 
> If anyones got ideas would help greatly  thanks.


Second issue is a wheel bearing.

No idea on the first issue. What kind of clicking? Does it go away when you push the clutch in?


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## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

Are there any other trans options that bolt up to a G60 without a ridiculous amount of fab work? Man those gears feel short after driving my MKV for a couple days.


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

twoteks said:


> Are there any other trans options that bolt up to a G60 without a ridiculous amount of fab work? Man those gears feel short after driving my MKV for a couple days.


1.8T o2j shouldn't be much work


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## RRADO GIRLIE (Feb 2, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Second issue is a wheel bearing.
> 
> No idea on the first issue. What kind of clicking? Does it go away when you push the clutch in?


Umm see thats the thing I thought a throwout bearing made a noise all the time and stopped when u pressed the clutch in. There is no noise like that. Only the clicking noise when the clutch is dropped. I can only describe it as sounding like something is loose. When u lurch forward in the car it clicks, or a hitting noise possibly. Almost like there is play in letting the clutch out to accelerate maybe? If i dont hit the sweet spot in the clutch when going over speed bumps or accel from a stop I hear it. So if i stop go stop go stop go I can make it do the noise. I dont have to be giving it gas tho. It will do it by simple dropping the clutch in a semi quick manner. I find it weird that it went away and is back no. The motor isn't moving when the clicking happens so Im at a loss at what it is.


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## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

RRADO GIRLIE said:


> Umm see thats... Explaination of clutch noise...


Sounds like clutch chatter to me... 

Like you would get from using a single mass flywheel on an 02M. 

Any chance you got some fluid on your clutch disc? Typically clutch chatter happens when the clutch gets hot.... Kinda shooting in the dark purely based on your explaination to me...
What engine is in the car? What trans?

Also your second issue, I will confirm that sounds exactly like a wheel bearing issue. It doesn't sound like its at the point of failure yet but you should buy some new bearings for the front wheels and have them pressed in. Oh make sure they are German, not made in China. 
You could do the rear axle bearings too. Those ones are much easier to replace than the front two and then you know all 4 wheels spin nicely.


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

Two questions

Will this be a good way to try to clean my injectors? Not sure.

[video] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7aT4S1lIBAY&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/video]


And is there a thread on how to make the headlights look like this? I really like :laugh: but I can't seem to find anything on them.



Thanks


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

tonyg60 said:


> Two questions
> 
> Will this be a good way to try to clean my injectors? Not sure.
> 
> ...


Custom. Dive on in and see what you can come up with.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RRADO GIRLIE said:


> Umm see thats the thing I thought a throwout bearing made a noise all the time and stopped when u pressed the clutch in. There is no noise like that. Only the clicking noise when the clutch is dropped. I can only describe it as sounding like something is loose. When u lurch forward in the car it clicks, or a hitting noise possibly. Almost like there is play in letting the clutch out to accelerate maybe? If i dont hit the sweet spot in the clutch when going over speed bumps or accel from a stop I hear it. So if i stop go stop go stop go I can make it do the noise. I dont have to be giving it gas tho. It will do it by simple dropping the clutch in a semi quick manner. I find it weird that it went away and is back no. The motor isn't moving when the clicking happens so Im at a loss at what it is.





TheLateJetta said:


> Sounds like clutch chatter to me...
> 
> Like you would get from using a single mass flywheel on an 02M.
> 
> ...


I forget who sells them but you can buy front wheel bearings that have been repacked with redline synthetic grease. Makes them last much longer. I just repack mine myself but if you have to be careful not to rip the seals when you pull them out.

For the rears pack them with synthetic and put the outer races in the freezer before you go to put them in the rotors.

The clutch issue sounds alot like clutch chatter. Have you check to see if any of the mount cups on the subframe have broken? I have had that happen before.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

tonyg60 said:


> Two questions
> 
> Will this be a good way to try to clean my injectors? Not sure.
> 
> ...


1) Link for injectors not working and 2) NA-spec headlights with custom fitted projectors inside (among other details). There was a thread about them some time ago, I'd search and/or google


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> 1) Link for injectors not working and 2) NA-spec headlights with custom fitted projectors inside (among other details). There was a thread about them some time ago, I'd search and/or google


Alright I'll search 

And for the link it's just connect the injector to a battery source and have carb cleaner on the other end to clean it out but wasn't sure if this would work properly. You could check out on YouTube just search clean fuel injectors


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Can anyone get me the part number for the VR6 DOHC intake manifold cover?


----------



## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

havokruels said:


> can anyone get me the part number for the vr6 dohc intake manifold cover?


 021 133 286 b


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

NoCYet said:


> 021 133 286 b


Thanks bro!


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

Hid kit question. Bi-xenon harness has 3 wires? Regular xenon 2wires?


----------



## RRADO GIRLIE (Feb 2, 2009)

hmm okay yeah I will have to maybe just do a full new clutch on the thing. It makes noise hot or cold. and The subframes good  when I got the car it was busted on both sides of the subframe :/ my engine almost fell out. I couldn't figure out why there was a dent in the hood from the prev owner.... and it was because the engine was popping up and SMACKING the hood :banghead:

its a vr6 with the trans that everyone wants. I cant remember what its called. vehicle terms and names tend to slip my mind. Its usually that thing in the place next to the thingy. :laugh:


----------



## erickramirez (Aug 2, 2008)

Hello everyone i had one quick question.

When on the freeway going 60mph in 5th, what are your RPMs at? for a G60 corrado

I know theres probly alot of factors that could change this but just an average.

mine is always around 3000RPMs, and it feels too high, i see other cars that are cruising at 1500RPMS... 

then i step on it a little and RPMS go up to ~3100 and speed is now 70mph??


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

tonyg60 said:


> Alright I'll search
> 
> And for the link it's just connect the injector to a battery source and have carb cleaner on the other end to clean it out but wasn't sure if this would work properly. You could check out on YouTube just search clean fuel injectors


I think that works only for mechanical injectors, not with the electronic G60 ones...

When I send my injectors to be cleaned they did it with a process called ultrasonic - that's what you should also do 
http://www.witchhunter.com/


----------



## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> I think that works only for mechanical injectors, not with the electronic G60 ones...
> 
> When I send my injectors to be cleaned they did it with a process called ultrasonic - that's what you should also do
> http://www.witchhunter.com/


Oh ok thanks just thought this would help a little and sort off give me a direction to where my problem is because I've been chasing this problem in my car for about 3 months :banghead: so I'm on that broke status lol problem v
Being irratic idle at low rpm but runs fine at higher rpms


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Tk2g60 said:


> Hid kit question. Bi-xenon harness has 3 wires? Regular xenon 2wires?


Hi/Low Switch For Power to Battery or Power Supply. 

Kit no haz instructions?


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Hi/Low Switch For Power to Battery or Power Supply.
> 
> Kit no haz instructions?


Power supply. It was only powered one side. Then has a wire that ran across the other side connecting the two. Instead of being 2 individual. And no instructions :/ or I must have miss placed them :facepalm:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Tk2g60 said:


> Power supply. It was only powered one side. Then has a wire that ran across the other side connecting the two. Instead of being 2 individual. And no instructions :/ or I must have miss placed them :facepalm:


That is how all bi-xenon kits are. There is a relay box that it came with that controls the solenoids on the bulbs.

Usually there is constant power to the relay box and a constant ground at each bulb. Then there are two signal wires. One is low beam the other is high beam.


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> That is how all bi-xenon kits are. There is a relay box that it came with that controls the solenoids on the bulbs.
> 
> Usually there is constant power to the relay box and a constant ground at each bulb. Then there are two signal wires. One is low beam the other is high beam.


right so on the wiring harness i used fot the fogs is xenon and that should only have 2 wires then?


Also if you remember a couple pages back i was thinking about replacing my headlight harness cause i had that burned out plug on drivers side. well since then i replaced the plug with a new one and ran a volt test on it and there is no power going to the low beam side?? any clue why this might be? thanks for the help:thumbup:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Tk2g60 said:


> right so on the wiring harness i used fot the fogs is xenon and that should only have 2 wires then?
> 
> 
> Also if you remember a couple pages back i was thinking about replacing my headlight harness cause i had that burned out plug on drivers side. well since then i replaced the plug with a new one and ran a volt test on it and there is no power going to the low beam side?? any clue why this might be? thanks for the help:thumbup:


Have you checked the fuses?

The issue is probably more than the plug.


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

cyberstasi said:


> So I got a crunch in my door on my late 91 G60 corrado. I have a 90 G60 door that I was going to put on the car. Problem is the wiring is all different. I though i could just plug and play, but of course that wont work since the plugs are different. So I thought to myself, no worries I just splice the new harness plugs on the older door. Oh but wait... the wires are even different colors. Thankfully the power window wires are the same for the motor, but the rest I cant seem to match up.
> 
> I've looked through my bentley and I cant seem to make heads or tails of what colors are what in the door harness. When I look at the diagrams and find what I think I need... I cant then find that color in the door or under the dash.
> 
> ...


2nd call for help. I think I got lost in the lights chatter. I cant make heads or tails of the wiring diagrams for the door accessories in the bentley @ the door jam. I can find them for @ the accessory, but not as they pass through the door into the body.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> 2nd call for help. I think I got lost in the lights chatter. I cant make heads or tails of the wiring diagrams for the door accessories in the bentley @ the door jam. I can find them for @ the accessory, but not as they pass through the door into the body.


You need to find each component for the door and follow for each year, jotting the differences in a note pad. It will be way easier for you to do this than just rely on the experts, it may even help you to learn the wiring schematics for the future :thumbup:


----------



## juantxuri (Nov 20, 2010)

Hola a todos,tengo dos preguntas:

VW Corrado 2,9 VR6

Año: 1992

Motor de serie.

1ª pregunta:

Cuando el coche se calienta no se encienden los ventiladores en marcha, tengo que apagar el motor para que se enciendan.

Si el coche esta a 90º o 100º salta una velocidad y si sobrepasa los 100º salta una velocidad mas potente, pero repito nunca con el motor encendido.

Que puede ocurrir?

Y el segundo problemas es que a veces el coche pega tirones y el motor se muestra inestable en las revoluciones.

Yo creo que es un problema eléctrico o de algún sensor, porque lo hace a veces.

Os a pasado a alguno este fallo??

Saludos y siento tener que utilizar un traductor.


*Hello everyone, I have two questions:

VW Corrado 2.9 VR6

Year: 1992

Engine series.

1st question:

When the car is heated not ignite fans underway, I have to turn off the engine so they lit.

If the car is 90º or 100th jump speed and if it surpasses the 100th jumps a speed more powerful, but I repeat never idling.

That can happen?

The second problem is that sometimes the car sticks jerks and the engine is unstable in the revolutions.

I think it is an electrical problem or a sensor, because does it sometimes.

OS past one this bug?

Greetings and am sorry to have to use a translator.


*


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## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Could be the idle stabilization valve on top of the intake
Manifold? If I'm reading your question correctly


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## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

juantxuri said:


> Hola a todos,tengo dos preguntas:
> 
> VW Corrado 2,9 VR6
> 
> ...


 Hola. 
Primero. 
el ....ventilador del motor tiene tres configuraciones de velocidad para temperaturas diferentes. 

Debe reemplazar los sensores para el sistema de agua. no estan trabajando. Usar www.germanautoparts.com 
o una vendador de piezas autos

Segundo... esto es dificil de traducir... 
es posible Que la problema es con la valvula que puede estabilizar la revolucion de inactividad.

Buena suerte. Lo siento para.... Spanglish.


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> You need to find each component for the door and follow for each year, jotting the differences in a note pad. It will be way easier for you to do this than just rely on the experts, it may even help you to learn the wiring schematics for the future :thumbup:



My problem isnt finding the wiring for the accessory. That I've done. Thats just making a list of each wire in the schematic. My problem is finding it at the point of joining with the wiring harness inside the car. Example. The door handle wiring is Red/Black/Brown (I think, if not brown its white). But these are NOT the colors under the dash. And thats on my 91 door and 91 car. Problem is compounded when my 90 door has totally different wiring colors and harnesses coming out of the door.
Thats where I'm getting lost in understanding the schematics is in how the wiring shown for the acc links back in with the 'main lines' running through the car. Is there another place in the wiring harness where I need to find that?
I want to learn, but at this point I dont even know where to start, because none of it seems right. When I do find in the bentley what I think I need, those color wires arent on the harness running through the door jam. My electrical work before has centered around DC schematics on a single circuit board doing work in a closed system. The wiring harness, while being DC, is another beast entirely, and I'm somewhat lost as to the way the schematics are broken down.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> My problem isnt finding the wiring for the accessory. That I've done. Thats just making a list of each wire in the schematic. My problem is finding it at the point of joining with the wiring harness inside the car. Example. The door handle wiring is Red/Black/Brown (I think, if not brown its white). But these are NOT the colors under the dash. And thats on my 91 door and 91 car. Problem is compounded when my 90 door has totally different wiring colors and harnesses coming out of the door.
> Thats where I'm getting lost in understanding the schematics is in how the wiring shown for the acc links back in with the 'main lines' running through the car. Is there another place in the wiring harness where I need to find that?
> I want to learn, but at this point I dont even know where to start, because none of it seems right. When I do find in the bentley what I think I need, those color wires arent on the harness running through the door jam. My electrical work before has centered around DC schematics on a single circuit board doing work in a closed system. The wiring harness, while being DC, is another beast entirely, and I'm somewhat lost as to the way the schematics are broken down.


You are probably confusing yourself on looking at the entire harness as a whole. Break it down for each component and it will make your life easier. Most all of the wiring in the door can be broken down into 2 wire components, which would mean a power and ground, hell I bet it is mostly all P&P. 

I could break all this down and figure out your issue, but I'd rather see you learn. If you need help with the Bentley, feel free to shoot me a PM :thumbup:


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## nu2dubbing (May 6, 2006)

*Low oil pressure*

Could a leaking oil filter flange at the block cause low oil pressure at idle? I'm currently taking the oil pan off to replace the pump and check con bearings.


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## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

nu2dubbing said:


> Could a leaking oil filter flange at the block cause low oil pressure at idle? I'm currently taking the oil pan off to replace the pump and check con bearings.


If it is a severe leak, yes. If it is just a small drip, no.


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## FlatlanderSJ (Oct 4, 2007)

cyberstasi said:


> I'm somewhat lost as to the way the schematics are broken down.


maybe this will help?  http://www.e38.org/understanding%20euro%20wiring%20diagrams.pdf


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## moterhead7 (Oct 12, 2011)

*help*

this is on my 93 volkswagen corrado vr6. im not sure what this part is i was wondering if you could tell me then ill have another question about it.


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## moterhead7 (Oct 12, 2011)

sorry those pics didnt show up give me a sec and ill put a link up


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## moterhead7 (Oct 12, 2011)

http://s252.photobucket.com/albums/hh25/moterhead7/?action=view&current=estasrg.jpg
http://s252.photobucket.com/albums/hh25/moterhead7/?action=view&current=zsdfas.jpg


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## FlatlanderSJ (Oct 4, 2007)

moterhead7 said:


> http://s252.photobucket.com/albums/hh25/moterhead7/?action=view&current=zsdfas.jpg



that's the Auxiliary coolant pump. circulates coolant after the car is turned off to help cool the head


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## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

Getting ready to do a 5 lug swap on my G60. Still gathering everything I need and was wondering if I canuse MKIV rear calipers on the rear. I'm pulling most of my parts from a 95 GTi VR6.


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## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Yes, you can use Mk4 rear calipers.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

twoteks said:


> Getting ready to do a 5 lug swap on my G60. Still gathering everything I need and was wondering if I canuse MKIV rear calipers on the rear. I'm pulling most of my parts from a 95 GTi VR6.





TheLateJetta said:


> Yes, you can use Mk4 rear calipers.


You need special brake lines though. IIRC GAP sells them and I know fourseasontuning does as well.


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## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

TheBurninator said:


> You need special brake lines though. IIRC GAP sells them and I know fourseasontuning does as well.


 The set I bought came with the lines. I think I got them from ECS.


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## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

Sup guys..last night was awesome. After 10 long hard month I finally finished all the work on my g60 since my crash back in july. I took it out for a cruise around the block to notice that the engine make absolutely no power.I can only get a quarter throttle out of it any thing more the car just falls in its face. I have a air fual gauge and its not showing me any thing idk where to start looking


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## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

Anybody know where to get a harness bar the G60? I've never like those seatbelts and I think it's time to say good bye.


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## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

G60Ron said:


> Sup guys..last night was awesome. After 10 long hard month I finally finished all the work on my g60 since my crash back in july. I took it out for a cruise around the block to notice that the engine make absolutely no power.I can only get a quarter throttle out of it any thing more the car just falls in its face. I have a air fual gauge and its not showing me any thing*I know there crap but it hs to mean some tthing wrong right?*idk


Bu p


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## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

Bump


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

G60Ron said:


> Sup guys..last night was awesome. After 10 long hard month I finally finished all the work on my g60 since my crash back in july. I took it out for a cruise around the block to notice that the engine make absolutely no power.I can only get a quarter throttle out of it any thing more the car just falls in its face. I have a air fual gauge and its not showing me any thing idk where to start looking





G60Ron said:


> Bu p





G60Ron said:


> Bump


Um hey man. Start with checking for boost leaks, and also start with the basics. Battery, Air, Fuel Spark. 




twoteks said:


> Anybody know where to get a harness bar the G60? I've never like those seatbelts and I think it's time to say good bye.


No need for Harness bar. Schroth Autocontrol Harnesses mount to the Rear Seatbelt Location. Cleanly.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

twoteks said:


> Anybody know where to get a harness bar the G60? I've never like those seatbelts and I think it's time to say good bye.


As Will said, or just get euro belts.


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## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

When the engine is at tdc is the distributor mark suppose to be pointing in a certain direction. I know the rotor is suppose to be pointing to cylinder one but I'm lost with the mark. And what about lining the intermediate shaft? I have it aligned with the crank when both dots seem to meet. 

Thanks


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## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Um hey man. Start with checking for boost leaks, and also start with the basics. Battery, Air, Fuel Spark.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

Do you have to remove the window in order to get the regulator out? I have the regulator loose, but cannot for the life of me get it to twist or slide enough to get it out the bottom. The bentley said to wedge the window up, it didn't say to remove it, but I can't imagine it can stay in...

If I do need to remove it, how do I twist it to get it out? Front down back up, back out first? If not... what the **** trick am I missing here?


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## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

elijah- said:


> Do you have to remove the window in order to get the regulator out? I have the regulator loose, but cannot for the life of me get it to twist or slide enough to get it out the bottom. The bentley said to wedge the window up, it didn't say to remove it, but I can't imagine it can stay in...
> 
> If I do need to remove it, how do I twist it to get it out? Front down back up, back out first? If not... what the **** trick am I missing here?


I just did a regulator and I did not remove my window. I held it up with masking tape. Hope you have your drill, rivet tool and I think 7 rivets per door ready. I wasn't expecting rivets in there.


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## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

DUBZAK said:


> Um hey man. Start with checking for boost leaks, and also start with the basics. Battery, Air, Fuel Spark.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Sounds nice but once in while my kids are in the back and I'd like to have them with sometimes. Thought about the Euro's...just don't want to spend $400 and end up with something I'm not happy with.


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## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

twoteks said:


> I just did a regulator and I did not remove my window. I held it up with masking tape. Hope you have your drill, rivet tool and I think 7 rivets per door ready. I wasn't expecting rivets in there.


I have drilled all of the rivets already, and have tried to take the regulator out, but there doesn't seem to be enough wiggle room even with the window held all the way up. Was yours easy to get out? How did you go about slipping it out the bottom? 


Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


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## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

I'm looking into buying a mint rear bumper. What's a good price to pay? Also ftr G60 rear bumper is the same as a Vr right?


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## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

Tk2g60 said:


> I'm looking into buying a mint rear bumper. What's a good price to pay? Also ftr G60 rear bumper is the same as a Vr right?


I know some one who has one that there trying to sell he's asking 150 ship he's in Cali good dude I bought a front bumper from him he sent it threw greyhound..so from call to Miami took like 3 or 4 days to get here and the bumper is green


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## mattsgota325i (Mar 2, 2006)

was doing my slave cylinder today and the plug that the hardline goes into next to the bleeder got f'd up pretty bad.. it was in there crazy tight and i didnt have the correct size line wrench so ended up gettin it out with vise grips a socket and a long extension.. its out and new ones in but i dont want to put this end back in if i can find a new one easy.. was wondering if anyone knows places that would carry them in stock. and the correct size.. im guessin it was a 12mm but it was already messed up and i made it worse so im not sure

any store suggestions and size of the end would be appreciated.. it is the plug the hardline runs into on the end of the slave


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## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

mattsgota325i said:


> was doing my slave cylinder today and the plug that the hardline goes into next to the bleeder got f'd up pretty bad.. it was in there crazy tight and i didnt have the correct size line wrench so ended up gettin it out with vise grips a socket and a long extension.. its out and new ones in but i dont want to put this end back in if i can find a new one easy.. was wondering if anyone knows places that would carry them in stock. and the correct size.. im guessin it was a 12mm but it was already messed up and i made it worse so im not sure
> 
> any store suggestions and size of the end would be appreciated.. it is the plug the hardline runs into on the end of the slave


I just bled my clutch on Monday and iirc its a 11mm


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## Trappistbrew (Mar 15, 2012)

*93 slc*

Hey all, I'm brand new here and to the Corrado. I have loved this car for years since living in Germany several years back. Here's my question... I'm getting ready to go look at, and most likely purchase a '93 SLC. Any advice on what to look out for, questions to ask, etc.? It has 91k on it. Are there any known problems or quirks with this number of miles? Thanks a lot. Any input would be greatly appreciated.


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## mattsgota325i (Mar 2, 2006)

G60Ron said:


> I just bled my clutch on Monday and iirc its a 11mm


thanks you know any hardware stores that carry those ends?


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## Gotmudkb (Mar 15, 2012)

*Car wont start*

I have a 94 golf 2.0 and I went to go put an amp and subs in and I cut the yellow wire behind the radio but I forgot to shut off the car and the anti theft went off so I got that to turn off but now my car wont start and the fuel relay is rapidly clicking making my fuel pump rapidly click but yesterday I was able to start the car off starting fluid and it would stay running till ( I ) shut the car off but couldnt get it started again with out the starting fluid so I tryed it again today and now nothing so I had my buddy put a scanner on it and he said he couldnt connect to the computer so I give up please help me get to work


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Gotmudkb said:


> I have a 94 golf 2.0 and I went to go put an amp and subs in and I cut the yellow wire behind the radio but I forgot to shut off the car and the anti theft went off so I got that to turn off but now my car wont start and the fuel relay is rapidly clicking making my fuel pump rapidly click but yesterday I was able to start the car off starting fluid and it would stay running till ( I ) shut the car off but couldnt get it started again with out the starting fluid so I tryed it again today and now nothing so I had my buddy put a scanner on it and he said he couldnt connect to the computer so I give up please help me get to work


Do you have a corrado?


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## Gotmudkb (Mar 15, 2012)

No 94 vw golf lll


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Gotmudkb said:


> No 94 vw golf lll


This is the corrado forum. Please post in the mk3 forum..


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## Gotmudkb (Mar 15, 2012)

Oops sry


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## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

Das can see fixed the hi/lo beam problem. I posted this question in the lighting forum and somebody posted up a diagram. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...e-please-hid-no-hi-lo&p=76415718#post76415718

Made me realize I was forgetting to plug in these tiny little plugs on the harness that relays the signal to the high/lo beam. Now I just have to figure out why my fogs stopped working along with my driver side parking light:banghead: which both were working before. Also I have no indicator on The cluster for when the high beams are on. But I'm guessing that's just a bulb in the cluster.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Trappistbrew said:


> Hey all, I'm brand new here and to the Corrado. I have loved this car for years since living in Germany several years back. Here's my question... I'm getting ready to go look at, and most likely purchase a '93 SLC. Any advice on what to look out for, questions to ask, etc.? It has 91k on it. Are there any known problems or quirks with this number of miles? Thanks a lot. Any input would be greatly appreciated.


Read the FAQ listed up top. If you have never owned another VR6 Car, well......hope you either are a fast learner, or know of a reputable mechanic to save you serious coin. 

91K means will probably need timing chains eventually. Can be a great car, but the cheaper it is, the more it will cost you to get right. 
Cooling System
Suspension
Engine 

Yeah, they all have problems.


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## Trappistbrew (Mar 15, 2012)

So are there very many Corrado owners using their cars as daily drivers?


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## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

mattsgota325i said:


> thanks you know any hardware stores that carry those ends?


i know napa sell the hard lines they are the bubble flared hard line that we use so its not that much but you might need to order that line from gap or four seasons or some thing


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Trappistbrew said:


> So are there very many Corrado owners using their cars as daily drivers?


Yeah, I did for the first 3 years (06-09) and had to drop as much as I spent on the car in the first 16 months to make it road worthy enough to last as a daily. I did a lot o work myself, some I had to pay for because of space. Old Cars, lots of worn parts, and if you are not experienced enough to take care of it, you can do yourself a lot of financial damage.


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Trappistbrew said:


> So are there very many Corrado owners using their cars as daily drivers?


I daily mine :thumbup:


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## drew93slc (Apr 5, 2010)

any info would be really helpful on where i might be able to find a new set rubber seals for the windows on my 93 slc. about to have the whole body re-done and pretty much every exterior piece of rubber on the vehicle is shot. where should i turn for some replacements? tia -Drew


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## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

elijah- said:


> Do you have to remove the window in order to get the regulator out? I have the regulator loose, but cannot for the life of me get it to twist or slide enough to get it out the bottom. The bentley said to wedge the window up, it didn't say to remove it, but I can't imagine it can stay in...
> 
> If I do need to remove it, how do I twist it to get it out? Front down back up, back out first? If not... what the **** trick am I missing here?





elijah- said:


> I have drilled all of the rivets already, and have tried to take the regulator out, but there doesn't seem to be enough wiggle room even with the window held all the way up. Was yours easy to get out? How did you go about slipping it out the bottom?
> 
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk



Anyone?

All rivets drilled, the vertical slider, arms, and motor are all loose. The cable is still connected, I can't get it out. Day #2 trying to twist it or push it up to get it to come out, nothing even close.

When I push it up to try and slide it out the bottom it goes up maybe an inch or so and gets wedged between the window and the metal, and it's in a little cutout so it can't really be twisted sideways. Window is still in, I've tried with it all the way up and all the way down.

Sitting here with a trash bag duct taped over the window while it's supposed to rain..


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## drew93slc (Apr 5, 2010)

oh ya, as well while in the shop the vehicle was damaged, so i need to find a badgeless grill to replace the cracked one currently on it. the po made this mod, so i am kinda at a loss as to what is out there and what is quality. I have run a few searches but havent found anything that looks as good a quality as whats currently on the car. tia for all the info and tollerating my noob questions!


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

drew93slc said:


> oh ya, as well while in the shop the vehicle was damaged, so i need to find a badgeless grill to replace the cracked one currently on it. the po made this mod, so i am kinda at a loss as to what is out there and what is quality. I have run a few searches but havent found anything that looks as good a quality as whats currently on the car. tia for all the info and tollerating my noob questions!


For a vr badgless grille? I would have to say any of them, even the eBay ones. Not sure how you can tell what the quality is by just looking at a picture?


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## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

I'm wiring in my OBD2 connector. I thought I had the wires and their functions correctly, but when I connect my scanner, it gets power but it won't link. Any ideas?

I've been using this diagram for the pinouts but it looks like I'm missing a wire on my OBD2 connector.










This is what I have on my car:


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## Swink (Aug 15, 2003)

I knew it didn't look right when you sent me that pic. 

You're missing the L-Line (yellow wire) on the obd2 port. it connects to pin 15 of the connector. 

http://pinoutsguide.com/CarElectronics/volkswagen_obd2_pinout.shtml 

:beer:


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

where is the window control module located? trying to play process of elimination on why my passenger side window does not work, all i hear is clicking with i press the button, coming from the driverside rear.


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## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

Swink said:


> I knew it didn't look right when you sent me that pic.
> 
> You're missing the L-Line (yellow wire) on the obd2 port. it connects to pin 15 of the connector.
> 
> ...


 Very well then. Can I add a wire to the connector? If not, does anyone have an OBD2 connector for sale?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

eurobred said:


> where is the window control module located? trying to play process of elimination on why my passenger side window does not work, all i hear is clicking with i press the button, coming from the driverside rear.


 Behind the driver rear door panel 



iAco said:


> Very well then. Can I add a wire to the connector? If not, does anyone have an OBD2 connector for sale?


 Yeah, you should be able to just depin the yellow wire from the 2x2 connector and repin it in the correct location on the OBDII connector


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

alright, basically found out its not the control module thats messed up, the window motor is probably shot. any other cars have a similar motor i can salvage? jettas? passats?


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## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

TheBurninator said:


> Yeah, you should be able to just depin the yellow wire from the 2x2 connector and repin it in the correct location on the OBDII connector


 Awesome! I de-pinned a standard wire from one of my extra harnesses and the terminal was to large to fit in the receptacle. Are there different sized terminal ends that VW uses?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

eurobred said:


> alright, basically found out its not the control module thats messed up, the window motor is probably shot. any other cars have a similar motor i can salvage? jettas? passats?


 Sad to say, but No. 

A1 Electric does have a deal on the regulator kits. Might be time to upgrade. :thumbup:


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

iAco said:


> Awesome! I de-pinned a standard wire from one of my extra harnesses and the terminal was to large to fit in the receptacle. Are there different sized terminal ends that VW uses?


 VW uses multiple terminal pin sizes. But those two should be the same.


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

DUBZAK said:


> Sad to say, but No.
> 
> A1 Electric does have a deal on the regulator kits. Might be time to upgrade. :thumbup:


 upgrade to what? what are you guys doing for your power window setups after your oem motors take dives?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

eurobred said:


> upgrade to what? what are you guys doing for your power window setups after your oem motors take dives?


 He just told you what to upgrade to...


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## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

ok... how about a link for those A1s. 


http://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_vwmtr.htm


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

TheBurninator said:


> He just told you what to upgrade to...


 yea sry read it wrong the first time :banghead: 

not too bad of a price to be plug and play. ill save up some dough and grab a set. thanks guys 

any ideas on replacing the plastic water guard behind the door card after? or should i just carefully tape it back up after removing it as carefully as i can?


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## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

If you can save it, go for it. If not, find some plastic at Lowes/Home depot and redo it. Not a big deal.


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## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

So I was check some thing out on my g60 and I had it idling and while it was doing that I hit the wot switch to see if it was working and the car shut off..sooo is that good?


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

Couple questions for you that have done the euro belt swap...  

What's everybody doing about the seatbelt light? Pulling the bulb?? 

And I noticed the A pillars mount different, can I get those clips from another car or does anybody know the part number so I can just pick em up at the dealer. They almost look like the door sill white clips.. 

Any help would be appriciated, and my car is a 91. 

Thanks, 

David


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## FlatlanderSJ (Oct 4, 2007)

krazy4dubz said:


> Couple questions for you that have done the euro belt swap...
> 
> What's everybody doing about the seatbelt light? Pulling the bulb??
> 
> ...


 pretty sure I used some left over clips i had from my mkiii a pillars so maybe go to a junk yard and grab some.


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## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

elijah- said:


> Anyone?
> 
> All rivets drilled, the vertical slider, arms, and motor are all loose. The cable is still connected, I can't get it out. Day #2 trying to twist it or push it up to get it to come out, nothing even close.
> 
> ...


 I remember I cut the cables to get a little more wiggle room in there. It's a PIA but it sounds like you have everything disconnected so it should come out through the bottom. It's a tight squeeze but it will come out. Pay attention to how it comes out too for when you install the new one.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Yep I cut my cables too on my yellow C. I'm sure there is a way but I found it easier to cut them since mine was already not working


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## elijah- (Aug 17, 2010)

twoteks said:


> I remember I cut the cables to get a little more wiggle room in there. It's a PIA but it sounds like you have everything disconnected so it should come out through the bottom. It's a tight squeeze but it will come out. Pay attention to how it comes out too for when you install the new one.





HavokRuels said:


> Yep I cut my cables too on my yellow C. I'm sure there is a way but I found it easier to cut them since mine was already not working


 I finally got it out yesterday, it took some moving the window up and down and getting the regulator past certain parts. Was a royal pain in the ass and sliced my fingers pretty good, but it's out.. now time to fix the good ol yellow clip


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

FlatlanderSJ said:


> pretty sure I used some left over clips i had from my mkiii a pillars so maybe go to a junk yard and grab some.


 Oh ok so there the same as mk3 clips, that's what I wanted to know.  Thanks for your help!! :thumbup: 

David


----------



## MrBland (Jul 9, 2010)

*Power steering noise/geyser*

So I just refreshed my front end steering, new tie rods (inner and outer), r32 bushings, sway bar end links, ball joints, and ran into a little trouble. First, I unknowingly knocked the driver's axle out of the cv joint and tried to go for a test drive which led to the splines on the axle being destroyed :banghead: 

I then got what i thought to be a new axle from Autozone, but the one they sold me did not fit on the wheel hub side :banghead: 

When I started my car up, however, my powersteering was making the most godawful grinding noise, which sounded like it was coming from the pump, but I'm not too certain. My fluid was backing up into the reservoir and actually squirting out the overfill hole in the top of the cap. I did have to jack the engine up a bit to get to the passenger control arm (not as much as I had to when my water pump went out) so I'm wondering if maybe that had an effect on the powersteering? 

It just seems like a strange coincidence that after doing all this front end work, my power steering decides to go at the same time? Any help or advice?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

krazy4dubz said:


> Couple questions for you that have done the euro belt swap...
> 
> What's everybody doing about the seatbelt light? Pulling the bulb??
> 
> ...


 Ditch the light all together or de-pin the connection and the clips you need can be souced from the dealer relatively inexpensively, IIRC about $1.50 each :thumbup: 



krazy4dubz said:


> Oh ok so there the same as mk3 clips, that's what I wanted to know.  Thanks for your help!! :thumbup:
> 
> David


 these clips can also be found on the rear headliner trim for the C, more like 1 or 2 use clips tho... 



MrBland said:


> So I just refreshed my front end steering, new tie rods (inner and outer), r32 bushings, sway bar end links, ball joints, and ran into a little trouble. First, I unknowingly knocked the driver's axle out of the cv joint and tried to go for a test drive which led to the splines on the axle being destroyed :banghead:
> 
> I then got what i thought to be a new axle from Autozone, but the one they sold me did not fit on the wheel hub side :banghead:
> 
> ...


 Check for a pinched hose


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

*corrado g60*

so whats up guys my g60 running like st8 poop. lol iv been going threw every thing in the Bentley 

to get some ideas but i just cant seem to get any results at first i thought my o2 was bad and i had 

a buddy let me borrow one of his nothing changed. so while i was at it i was looking at the knock 

sensor and it was chipped and cracked so i started to take it out until i got the the knock sensor 

plug and it was fried so i got a new one today put it on and nothing. i unplug my blue temp sensor 

and the car idled fine with no hick up or bogs nothing. (thats whats been goin on this whole time) 

oh i for got to mention that i also just changed the main vac line from the ecu and it is the 

exact specs as the Bentley says.. im running out of ideas if searched alot on google and the tex 

and i try every thing other people have done to try and solve there problems and i cant catch a break so guys plz help a brother out lol :beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

could this be the cause of my car running like crap? It idle and the goes crazy and won't stay on some times btw I already changed the hood and body ground the other ground it what gose on the side of the head


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

GEEEBUS! 

No wonder. Yeah, Brown is usually for Ground, and the Ground Strap will def cause messed up things. Repair and Recheck. 

After this check ALL GROUNDS.


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> GEEEBUS!
> 
> No wonder. Yeah, Brown is usually for Ground, and the Ground Strap will def cause messed up things. Repair and Recheck.
> 
> After this check ALL GROUNDS.


 Did you check the one above also?


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

*90 g60*

Where does this guy go? I found it in the fire was but in the center of the fire wall my car is dumping crazy fuel to the point were you can stand in the back of it if this got disco could it cause the problem that I'm experiencing


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

G60Ron said:


> Where does this guy go? I found it in the fire was but in the center of the fire wall my car is dumping crazy fuel to the point were you can stand in the back of it if this got disco could it cause the problem that I'm experiencing


 HVAC unit.


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

Kyle any ideas?


----------



## IMWALKIN (Mar 28, 2002)

bad o2? 
90 g60...when warm my idle drops and the car chuggs and shoots out black smoke...temps are ok, just happens when warm...and if I get some speed it slowly goes away...the faster i go the better it feels...but the car still feels slower... I was thinking bad 02 or a fouled plug... I checked for vac leaks and found one and fixed it but that wasnt it... tune up about six months ago... let me know what else I should check... thank you


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

*the problem that will not go away*

So I've done pretty much every thing I could except test the signal wire for the o2 sensor b.c idk how 

to and i know the Bentley does explain but I just don't know how to do it. Now I looked and changed 

just about all the ground wires I can get to. Which are the ones on the side of the head where the water 

flange is -The one under the battery; The hood to rain tray; the coil to valve cover i've also replaced o2 

sensor, knock sensor, blue temp sensor. I'm freaking going nuts with this i don't know what else 

to do..iv put a good 800 to 900 in the car fixing it from the accident i had last year in july and 

this is all i have left to do..so any help will be much appreciated thanks guys :thumbup: :thumbup:


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

I just want to clarify Ron. Did you replace the ignition coil with a new G60 coil? I have heard of a story where someone used some universal coil and he had a bad time. 

If you've changed the coil, blue sensor............
Have you cleaned your ISV? you could buy some MAF sensor cleaner and shoot that in there. Then stick your finger in it and make sure it isn't stuck.


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Ron if you still haven't figured it out I would look long and hard at your Vacuum system too. Start replacing hoses just to eliminate possibilities.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

IMWALKIN said:


> bad o2?
> 90 g60...when warm my idle drops and the car chuggs and shoots out black smoke...temps are ok, just happens when warm...and if I get some speed it slowly goes away...the faster i go the better it feels...but the car still feels slower... I was thinking bad 02 or a fouled plug... I checked for vac leaks and found one and fixed it but that wasnt it... tune up about six months ago... let me know what else I should check... thank you


I would swap it out for safe measure, swap it out for the Bosch Ford Mustang 5.0l sensor :thumbup:

All it takes is one little thing to make Digi run in limp mode, which is why I switched to standalone


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

TheLateJetta said:


> Ron if you still haven't figured it out I would look long and hard at your Vacuum system too. Start replacing hoses just to eliminate possibilities.


the vac line from ecu to intake manni is new and in Bentley specs i had a misfire issue last year in jan feb where my coil crapped out and i bought a msd blaster 2 coil and that solved my problem,i had also bought new plugs wire cap and rotor.as far as blue temp sensor when i unplug it car runs great same if i take the blue plug and put it in the black sensor..i pulled a few plugs today and they are blackkkk...btw i have a air fuel controller and it is connected but does not turn on for any thing idk what the deal is i jumped it to see if it turns on and it does but other then that i get nothing from it its weird.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

G60Ron said:


> the vac line from ecu to intake manni is new and in Bentley specs i had a misfire issue last year in jan feb where my coil crapped out and i bought a msd blaster 2 coil and that solved my problem,i had also bought new plugs wire cap and rotor.as far as blue temp sensor when i unplug it car runs great same if i take the blue plug and put it in the black sensor..i pulled a few plugs today and they are blackkkk...btw i have a air fuel controller and it is connected but does not turn on for any thing idk what the deal is i jumped it to see if it turns on and it does but other then that i get nothing from it its weird.


Ohm out the blue CTS and the wiring for it.
Post results.

Also with the car running pull the vac line on the FPR. Does fuel come out of it? (Sign of a bad FPR)


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> ...Also with the car running pull the vac line on the FPR. Does fuel come out of it? (Sign of a bad FPR)


Are you sure about this^^?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Are you sure about this^^?


Seen it a few times. If the diaphragm tears then it will leak fuel out of the vacuum port on the FPR

Also sending you a PM about something...


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Seen it a few times. If the diaphragm tears then it will leak fuel out of the vacuum port on the FPR
> 
> Also sending you a PM about something...


I can swear that when the FPR vac. line on my G60 came out one time, it sprayed fuel everywhere (incl. my eyes :banghead. But I thought that was normal. Note, that I had just turned off the car (ie. car wasn't running)


_Answered, will let u know asap _


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

I just got a new harness that is a little dirty. What can I use to clean it up? I hear Simple Green works well. Anyone with an experience chime in.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

turtledub said:


> I just got a new harness that is a little dirty. What can I use to clean it up? I hear Simple Green works well. Anyone with an experience chime in.


I like to use hot water and dish soap in a bucket.

Let it soak for a bit then start cleaning it off. Rinse when done to get the soap off. It will soften up the harness a bit too.



Simple green and super clean and oil eater will eat away at the copper and the insulation.


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

TheBurninator said:


> I like to use hot water and dish soap in a bucket.
> 
> Let it soak for a bit then start cleaning it off. Rinse when done to get the soap off. It will soften up the harness a bit too.
> 
> ...


I have heard that Simple Green doesn't hurt the copper? Also wouldn't the water in the harness eventually corrode it?


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

turtledub said:


> I have heard that Simple Green doesn't hurt the copper? Also wouldn't the water in the harness eventually corrode it?


Toss some baking soda in the mix, and it will actually REMOVE the corrosion :thumbup:


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

*FV-QR*

So, I just ended up buying an audi tt rear axle that came with the rear brakes. I was looking into doing a mk4 aluminum rear caliper conversion- will these audi tt calipers work as well? Thanks.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

turtledub said:


> I just got a new harness that is a little dirty. What can I use to clean it up? I hear Simple Green works well. Anyone with an experience chime in.


88 degreaser works wonders and if that doesn't get all the spots a little lacquer thinner will do the trick without harming the colors on the sheathing :thumbup:



JamesS said:


> So, I just ended up buying an audi tt rear axle that came with the rear brakes. I was looking into doing a mk4 aluminum rear caliper conversion- will these audi tt calipers work as well? Thanks.


should as IIRC they are MKIV


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

JamesS said:


> So, I just ended up buying an audi tt rear axle that came with the rear brakes. I was looking into doing a mk4 aluminum rear caliper conversion- will these audi tt calipers work as well? Thanks.


Depends. Are they the small tt brakes or the large ones?


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Depends. Are they the small tt brakes or the large ones?


I haven't seen em yet but I am guessing they are the big ones since it is from a 01' 225 quattro.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

JamesS said:


> I haven't seen em yet but I am guessing they are the big ones since it is from a 01' 225 quattro.


I will have to double check etka for the 225. I know the 3.2 got the big brakes.

if they are the big brakes then look for hubbel's post on r32 brakes from like 3-4 years ago.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Ok someone help me here, my oil/volt gauge was modified with led bulbs. I no longer want those but cannot find a harness on the dash for the original bulb locations??










Also, I noticed There is no lighting going to my heater controls as well.

One more thing! I noticed my gauge cluster clock and mileage stay on when the car is off?


----------



## njloco (Apr 2, 2009)

*Wiring for the four sensors:*

1993 SLC,

I need the wiring for the four sensors on top of the oil filter housing, reason is there are only three wires, green/black for the oil temp sensor, blue/black for the 0.3 bar pressure sensor, and yellow/black for the 1.4 bar oil pressure sensor, leaving the oil guage sensor without a wire ?

Also when I drive the car around the block the oil light and alarm come on but not when it idles only when I drive it. I took the 1.4 bar wire ( yellow/black ) wire and hooked it up to the oil pressure guage sensor and it shows pressure, but still the alarm goes off ? The sensors are after market and new, though the car has sat for awhile before actually starting it and letting it run.

Thanks


P.S. I did a search and found wiring information on the sensors, they are wired up correctly, however, I do not have a fourth wire for the oil pressure guage sensor ?, and still don't know why the darn alarm and light still come on :banghead: could it be that the oil pressure guage sensor runs off of the 1.4 bar sensor, in other words a jumper ? 

Since the oil pressure guage sensor is not hooked up, could that set off the oil light and alarm ?


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

TheBurninator said:


> Simple green and super clean and oil eater will eat away at the copper and the insulation.


super clean is excellent for hard parts but very bad if left unattended. Forgot to pull a piston out and left it overnight and super clean ate the aluminum!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> super clean is excellent for hard parts but very bad if left unattended. Forgot to pull a piston out and left it overnight and super clean ate the aluminum!


Super clean and oil eater on aluminum is a no no. Had similar issues with leaving a few aluminum parts in Simple Green although doesn't seem to eat it as quickly.


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

Is there a secret to removing a automatic shift knob?? The bentley doesn't give any details.. I thought just removing the set screw was all I had to do but it still won't budge..  Please help. 

Thanks,

David


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

krazy4dubz said:


> Is there a secret to removing a automatic shift knob?? The bentley doesn't give any details.. I thought just removing the set screw was all I had to do but it still won't budge..  Please help.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David


There should be one set screw on each side


----------



## dangerkart (Jul 12, 2010)

searched to no avail so...

my fuel door won't shut, i think the locking mechanism is stuck, but i'm not sure how to get it back down. it's a 92 with manual locks, so i don't know about a vacuum style lock. any experts have some advice for me?  thanks!!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

They never made corrado's without power locks. At least not in North America.

If you pull apart the passenger side of your trunk you will be able to access the actuator for the gas tank lock.


----------



## dangerkart (Jul 12, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> They never made corrado's without power locks. At least not in North America.
> 
> If you pull apart the passenger side of your trunk you will be able to access the actuator for the gas tank lock.


good to know, every one i have been in hasn't had them, my boyfriend seemed to think otherwise :screwy:

will do that then, thank you!


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

dangerkart said:


> good to know, every one i have been in hasn't had them, my boyfriend seemed to think otherwise :screwy:
> 
> will do that then, thank you!


The lock system in a Corrado is activated from a vacuum pump and actuators throughout. If you unlock the door there is a switch in the handle that triggers the rest of the locks. Or at least that is how it is supposed to work. 

You can also roll up your windows by locking the door and holding the key in the lock position.


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

HavokRuels said:


> There should be one set screw on each side


Oh really..... I'll have to check that out. It only showed one screw in the bentley to I thought. Hmmm...

Thanks,

David


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> They never made corrado's without power locks. At least not in North America...


They did over here in Europe 
You guys over there got lucky


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> The lock system in a Corrado is activated from a vacuum pump and actuators throughout. If you unlock the door there is a switch in the handle that triggers the rest of the locks. Or at least that is how it is supposed to work.
> 
> You can also roll up your windows by locking the door and holding the key in the lock position.


I can further elaborate that it is a signal grounding the lock wire. 
Check the diagrams in here for further information. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4361507-Keyless-Entry-For-Corrado...how-to-w-P-P-Kit


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> They did over here in Europe
> You guys over there got lucky


Is that what they call it? Lucky? Absolutely hate vacuum locks.


----------



## iAco (Aug 3, 2004)

I installed the OBD2 connector, but when I plug in my scanner it powers up but it doesn't link. Any thoughts on what I might have missed?

Also my car doesn't turn over with the key. I need to jump the starter to turn it over. Its an OBD2 swap from a 97 Passat. There isn't anything unplugged from under the fusebox. Any ideas?


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

krazy4dubz said:


> Oh really..... I'll have to check that out. It only showed one screw in the bentley to I thought. Hmmm...
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David


I just referenced the Bentley and you are correct one screw.


----------



## izcorrado18 (Aug 21, 2005)

iAco said:


> I installed the OBD2 connector, but when I plug in my scanner it powers up but it doesn't link. Any thoughts on what I might have missed?
> 
> Also my car doesn't turn over with the key. I need to jump the starter to turn it over. Its an OBD2 swap from a 97 Passat. There isn't anything unplugged from under the fusebox. Any ideas?



I believe you don't have the main power that powers some of your accessories. Look under the kick panel and look for the starter signal. Do you have the alarm wire (green and yellow) hooked up to the alarm wire (I wanna say black and red) of the OBD2 harness? Hopefully it can help.


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

HavokRuels said:


> I just referenced the Bentley and you are correct one screw.


Errrrr I dont know what to do, I don't wanna break anything... 

David


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Read about something where you put it in neutral and press the shift button in and pull up. Make sure you remove the set screw completely. GL


----------



## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

*Wheel fitment question:*

If anybody in here is good with Corrado wheel fitment I would greatly appreciate some help. I have a 90 G60 and I found a set of wheel I love but wondering if they're just too wide and I should move on. 16x9 ET 54 at all corners. Somebody talk me into buying these!


----------



## hotradochick90 (Feb 22, 2010)

OK how do I start, long story short, I have a 90 g60 that I swapped the motor from my first Corrado to a new body and an issue came up that wasn't happening before. It feels always a little hesitant with the throttle but generally runs alright, then randomly the throttle will cut out like there's nothing there when you hit the pedal, and the car will start to die, but if you stomp on it and pump the throttle it starts to kick back up but runs bad after that. Also if it does die it doesn't start back up well unless you pump the throttle till it idles even again.. Before in the other car it had a similar issue when after it runs and gets warm and you shut it off and let it sit for a few mins, start it back up and it idles terrible I would have to sit there and pump the throttle till the idle evened out or else it would it stall if you tri ed to move. I've got some knowledge over the 3 years of owning my Corrado but I have taken it to professionals too and haven't gotten anything figured out. So I guess throw some ideas out there and ill see if its already been done or start trying things.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

hotradochick90 said:


> OK how do I start, long story short, I have a 90 g60 that I swapped the motor from my first Corrado to a new body and an issue came up that wasn't happening before. It feels always a little hesitant with the throttle but generally runs alright, then randomly the throttle will cut out like there's nothing there when you hit the pedal, and the car will start to die, but if you stomp on it and pump the throttle it starts to kick back up but runs bad after that. Also if it does die it doesn't start back up well unless you pump the throttle till it idles even again.. Before in the other car it had a similar issue when after it runs and gets warm and you shut it off and let it sit for a few mins, start it back up and it idles terrible I would have to sit there and pump the throttle till the idle evened out or else it would it stall if you tri ed to move. I've got some knowledge over the 3 years of owning my Corrado but I have taken it to professionals too and haven't gotten anything figured out. So I guess throw some ideas out there and ill see if its already been done or start trying things.


How is the coolant temp sensor?


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

HavokRuels said:


> Ok someone help me here, my oil/volt gauge was modified with led bulbs. I no longer want those but cannot find a harness on the dash for the original bulb locations??
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Can someone shed some light on this for me?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> Can someone shed some light on this for me?


Pun intended?

The bulbs are powered by the circuit board that they clip into. All that is needed is the harness that plugs into the gauges.

Clock and Mileage always stay on as long as the battery is connected.


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

Do you have harness that goes with cubby gauge? There twist bulbs and light circuit wire grey-blue.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

TheBurninator said:


> Pun intended?
> 
> The bulbs are powered by the circuit board that they clip into. All that is needed is the harness that plugs into the gauges.
> 
> Clock and Mileage always stay on as long as the battery is connected.


Haha the pun was unintentional. Ok so it's the same lighting setup as the cluster.

Cool on the clock and mileage.

How about lighting for hvac knobs?




chc-rado said:


> Do you have harness that goes with cubby gauge? There twist bulbs and light circuit wire grey-blue.


Yep have the harness :thumbup:


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

dangerkart said:


> searched to no avail so...
> 
> my fuel door won't shut, i think the locking mechanism is stuck, but i'm not sure how to get it back down. it's a 92 with manual locks, so i don't know about a vacuum style lock. any experts have some advice for me?  thanks!!


You can actually test to see if it's working properly by accessing the vacuum tube going to the fuel door and applying boost or vacuum to it. It's a hard plastic line behind the passenger side hatch carpet. For best results make sure you isolate that particular line as it is tied into quite the network of lines for other items. 

Test the vacuum pump too which is also located back there in a foam type box


----------



## corradobuster (Mar 15, 2012)

*g60 is running rich*

I have a 1990 g60 that is running very rich. Its getting 10-12 miles a gallon. I would love some inp.ut on maybe what to change or where to look. Also my fan stays runnig all the time. I have to dissconnect the battery everytime I get out. Thank you


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Usually a rich condition is caused by something as simple as a coolant temp sensor. Change that out since its a quick and inexpensive maintenance. If that doesn't work, grab yourself a Bentley and start trouble shooting oxygen sensor etc etc


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

HavokRuels said:


> Read about something where you put it in neutral and press the shift button in and pull up. Make sure you remove the set screw completely. GL


Oh thank you so much!! :thumbup::beer::beer: I will give this a try tomorrow. 

David


----------



## hotradochick90 (Feb 22, 2010)

hotradochick90 said:


> OK how do I start, long story short, I have a 90 g60 that I swapped the motor from my first Corrado to a new body and an issue came up that wasn't happening before. It feels always a little hesitant with the throttle but generally runs alright, then randomly the throttle will cut out like there's nothing there when you hit the pedal, and the car will start to die, but if you stomp on it and pump the throttle it starts to kick back up but runs bad after that. Also if it does die it doesn't start back up well unless you pump the throttle till it idles even again.. Before in the other car it had a similar issue when after it runs and gets warm and you shut it off and let it sit for a few mins, start it back up and it idles terrible I would have to sit there and pump the throttle till the idle evened out or else it would it stall if you tri ed to move. I've got some knowledge over the 3 years of owning my Corrado but I have taken it to professionals too and haven't gotten anything figured out. So I guess throw some ideas out there and ill see if its already been done or start trying things.


Bump for quick replies please! I need to get this fixed for the port Townsend cruise this weekend!


----------



## hotradochick90 (Feb 22, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> How is the coolant temp sensor?


OK deleted the last reply to this to start over. The temp gauge is not working now. Also the oil light comes on sometimes and beeps. A few years ago when I got the first car the gauge was working but didn't read accurately, read about 100 degrees low, and the coolant temp light was constantly flashing.
I have a new sensor for the black gauge sensor that hasn't been changed yet, And the blue coolant temp sensor I haven't changed either. my bently is a bit hard for me to decifer at times so I did a little googling. Says the blue temp sensor is controlled by the ecu to regulate the fuel mixture? I guess makes a bit of sense to my problem if these were not working. Right? Hoping its something simple like that anyways, ill try it out tomorrow.


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

^^ might as well replace the blue one also. Its like 15 bucks new. Easy to do too. :beer:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

twoteks said:


> *Wheel fitment question:*
> 
> If anybody in here is good with Corrado wheel fitment I would greatly appreciate some help. I have a 90 G60 and I found a set of wheel I love but wondering if they're just too wide and I should move on. 16x9 ET 54 at all corners. Somebody talk me into buying these!


The offset on those 9'' (et54) is too high - they'll rub like a mofo inside
You'll need to pull the fenders and add spacers (to lower the offset). Are those Japan-spec wheels?


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

hotradochick90 said:


> OK deleted the last reply to this to start over. The temp gauge is not working now. Also the oil light comes on sometimes and beeps. A few years ago when I got the first car the gauge was working but didn't read accurately, read about 100 degrees low, and the coolant temp light was constantly flashing.
> I have a new sensor for the black gauge sensor that hasn't been changed yet, And the blue coolant temp sensor I haven't changed either. my bently is a bit hard for me to decifer at times so I did a little googling. Says the blue temp sensor is controlled by the ecu to regulate the fuel mixture? I guess makes a bit of sense to my problem if these were not working. Right? Hoping its something simple like that anyways, ill try it out tomorrow.


Coolant temp sensors are a common and frequently asked question. Replace both the blue and the black one. If you feel like really spending some money, you could also buy a new fan switch which is located on the drivers side of the radiator.


----------



## Macks04GLI (Jul 20, 2007)

*Is it my MAF going bad?*

Got a problem with my '94 SLC VRT Kinetic Stage 1 non-IC Corrado

It seems that when it reaches a good operating temp, the car, when at idle or accelerating from a stop becomes unresponsive or "choppy". So for instance after driving it for a bit and stopping at traffic light, when I attempt to pull off it won't move. It won't rev...right away. It will run like crap...almost to the point where I think its going to die...for few secs and eventually "catches" up and then surges slightly and pulls off.

It started this at the end of last summer. I think it's the MAF so I cleaned it with some MAF cleaner last fall and she won't have these problems for a while but it would eventually come back. So I would clean the MAF, drive it for a while and it would eventually do it again. 

So I have new MAF on the way to me and I'm hoping that fixes my problems...but if not what do the vortex experts think I should try next????


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Scan the car, see if any faults, and double check the AIT Sensor on the Manifold, as well as the WHOLE ignition system.


----------



## Macks04GLI (Jul 20, 2007)

DUBZAK said:


> Scan the car, see if any faults, and double check the AIT Sensor on the Manifold, as well as the WHOLE ignition system.


Will do. My MAF should be in next week so I'll take to go get codes pulled. 

Is checking that sensor as simple as just looking it over for corrosion/damage?


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Is or was there ever a chime or noise indicator to let you know your lights are still on once the keys are removed on the early model's? I tend to get out some times and forget there on during a cloudy day. However this is not a problem at night for me :laugh:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Macks04GLI said:


> Will do. My MAF should be in next week so I'll take to go get codes pulled.
> 
> Is checking that sensor as simple as just looking it over for corrosion/damage?


Measure resistance in Ohms as per Bentley Manual Guide. AKA Bible.


----------



## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

RedYellowWhite said:


> The offset on those 9'' (et54) is too high - they'll rub like a mofo inside
> You'll need to pull the fenders and add spacers (to lower the offset). Are those Japan-spec wheels?


BMW I believe. I would have to run adapters anyways so I don't mind spacing it out. What is a good ET for Corrados? I may pass on these wheels but still need to find something soon. Thanks.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

twoteks said:


> BMW I believe. I would have to run adapters anyways so I don't mind spacing it out. What is a good ET for Corrados? I may pass on these wheels but still need to find something soon. Thanks.


Usually BMWs offset are low...
What wheels are we talking about here? Can you post some pics/info?

Normally, good et for Corrados is near 35 (or lower)...
Really depends on what width wheels you're running, if you have pulled or rolled fenders, tyres play their role, if you're on coilovers or suspension kit, how low you want to go, if you want poke or tuck etc.

Check out this thread and see what offset others have run with 9'' wheels:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ders-offset-et-suspension-your-moms-horoscope


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

probably (read more-than-likely) been covered before, how do I address and fix a whistling sunroof? when I raise the sunroof a bit, the whistling subsides - does this mean the seals are bad? if so, how does one fix this?


----------



## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Usually BMWs offset are low...
> What wheels are we talking about here? Can you post some pics/info?
> 
> Normally, good et for Corrados is near 35 (or lower)...
> ...


They're Schmidt Revolution Modernlines. 16x9 ET 54 5x120. I don't love poke but I can put up with a little for a nice wheel. Prefer tuck. Coilovers but not real low. I'll check out that link when I have some extra time. Thanks again.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

twoteks said:


> They're Schmidt Revolution Modernlines. 16x9 ET 54 5x120. I don't love poke but I can put up with a little for a nice wheel. Prefer tuck. Coilovers but not real low. I'll check out that link when I have some extra time. Thanks again.


No problem 

*Unless they are the 3pc version* and the price is too good to pass up, personally I wouldn't bother. 
4x100 to 5x120 adapters are gonna cost you at least $400...


----------



## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

RedYellowWhite said:


> No problem
> 
> *Unless they are the 3pc version* and the price is too good to pass up, personally I wouldn't bother.
> 4x100 to 5x120 adapters are gonna cost you at least $400...


They're only 1 piece and he has adapters. Just trying to find the right wheels within the next couple weeks has been a challenge. I really want some thick 5 spokes similar to that style.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

twoteks said:


> They're only 1 piece and he has adapters. Just trying to find the right wheels within the next couple weeks has been a challenge. I really want some thick 5 spokes similar to that style.


Sounds good :thumbup:


----------



## DubCorrado (Aug 7, 2009)

*Lysholm Efficiency*

Sorry for this question being out of the blue, but does anyone here know how much air a BBM lysholm pushes out per revolution?


Thanks,
Mark


----------



## dangerkart (Jul 12, 2010)

stupid question but since everything on corrados seems to be different than every other corrado, would a 90 g60 sunroof switch be the same as one from a 92 slc? looks the same in the picture but you never know.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

dangerkart said:


> stupid question but since everything on corrados seems to be different than every other corrado, would a 90 g60 sunroof switch be the same as one from a 92 slc? looks the same in the picture but you never know.


 Yes. The 93+ is a different Harness and Switch


----------



## dangerkart (Jul 12, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Yes. The 93+ is a different Harness and Switch


thank you, didn't want to buy it if it wasn't going to work!


----------



## Macks04GLI (Jul 20, 2007)

DUBZAK said:


> Measure resistance in Ohms as per Bentley Manual Guide. AKA Bible.


Will any old voltage meter do?

Also where is the connect to pull the codes? Sorry. I'm still learning about my new toy. I've own only Mk4s or newer.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Macks04GLI said:


> Will any old voltage meter do?
> 
> Also where is the connect to pull the codes? Sorry. I'm still learning about my new toy. I've own only Mk4s or newer.


As long as the multi meter has different settings, you are looking for Resistance in Ohms, not Volts. 

AIT sensor is located on the right side of the intake manifold, at the bend. It will be a 2 pin sensor.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Macks04GLI said:


> Will any old voltage meter do?
> 
> Also where is the connect to pull the codes? Sorry. I'm still learning about my new toy. I've own only Mk4s or newer.


Sad world we live in 

The 2x2 is under the shift boot. You need a 2x2 adapter to OBD2 to pull codes.


----------



## Vdubspot (Dec 3, 2011)

*Ignition/Eletrical? Problem - pics*

so i was trying to start my 92 vr6 slc up after swapping out the interior and to my surprise it did not start and even let out some smoke from the ignition area. I know the plug in where it came from because I saw it and it was warm after for a minute. Here are some pics:


































Not planning on starting it again but any ideas on what the problem might be or any way to fix it? Is it electrical or might i just need a new ignition? Any info and help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Seems to be a common problem with corrados and b4 passats. I'd say try to start it again with extinguisher near by. But up to you really.


----------



## zalicea24 (Mar 16, 2012)

*91 g60 corrado auto trans leaking!!*

it might be the drain plug at the bottom of the tranny but i cant find another one to get or what size it is! can someone please help me!


----------



## Vdubspot (Dec 3, 2011)

*ignition/electrical problem*

so smoke coming from that elec. hook up to the ignition is a common problem in corrado's and passats? but it should start up fine if i try it again? let me know.


----------



## lmurray (Aug 3, 2003)

Vdubspot said:


> so smoke coming from that elec. hook up to the ignition is a common problem in corrado's and passats? but it should start up fine if i try it again? let me know.


Ignition switch is probably dead. Grab another one and replace.


----------



## Dorrado (Dec 12, 2001)

I have arp rod bolts for the motor i am freshening up to turbo and was curious if i could just drop the oil pan and replace the rod bolts that way? would taking 1 stock rod bolt out, replacing with an ARP rod bolt, removing the other stock bolt and replacing with another ARP rod bolt be sufficient? Or would this ruin the rod bearings?

thanks for any advice


----------



## 91vwmk2 (Oct 1, 2011)

*corrado not starting*

hey i have a 1990 g60 corrado , 
problem: it cranks, but wont start

mods: tt cam , chip, kanada suprcharger, borla exhaust , k&n filter
Its my first corrado
anything will help at this point , i checked for fuel and its fine
i cant figure out whats wrong with it, hopefully some one can help me!


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Ecu relay? Check all your grounds, test to see if your getting spark. It could be a lot of things.


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Dorrado said:


> I have arp rod bolts for the motor i am freshening up to turbo and was curious if i could just drop the oil pan and replace the rod bolts that way? would taking 1 stock rod bolt out, replacing with an ARP rod bolt, removing the other stock bolt and replacing with another ARP rod bolt be sufficient? Or would this ruin the rod bearings?
> 
> thanks for any advice


I personally would drop both with half bearing and plasta gauge then install two new bolts. I wouldn't do it one at a time that will make everything **** eyed


----------



## Trappistbrew (Mar 15, 2012)

*Colorado Corrado owners*

I'll be moving to Colorado soon and wanted to know if there was a Corrado club or group there. I noticed there was a Colorado Owners Group here on vwvortex. However, there hasn't been any activity that I can see since 2005. Thanks.


----------



## Macks04GLI (Jul 20, 2007)

DUBZAK said:


> As long as the multi meter has different settings, you are looking for Resistance in Ohms, not Volts.
> 
> AIT sensor is located on the right side of the intake manifold, at the bend. It will be a 2 pin sensor.


I think I going to buy myself one of these. I keep running into situations where I need one and since i love tools...well you get it.

Anyone have a brand/model recommendation??


----------



## Macks04GLI (Jul 20, 2007)

*MAF cross check*

does anyone know what other model of VW used the same OBD1 VR6 "6 pin" MAF? 

I might have a source for cheap MAFs but I need to sure the cross use will work. Does anyone know the part number of the VR6 MAF?? I'm stuck at work until late...gov't facility so I can use the interwebs to look it up myself. 

Thanks!


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Macks04GLI said:


> I think I going to buy myself one of these. I keep running into situations where I need one and since i love tools...well you get it.
> 
> Anyone have a brand/model recommendation??


FLUKE



Macks04GLI said:


> doesn't anyone know what other model of VW used the same OBD1 VR6 "6 pin" MAF?
> 
> I might have a source for cheap MAFs but I need to sure the cross use will work. Does anyone know the part number of the VR6 MAF?? I'm stuck at work until late...gov't facility so I can use the interwebs to look it up myself.
> 
> Thanks!


The only other car to use the same OEM MAF is the Passat. P/N 021 906 461. List is $488.91 with a core charge most likely.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Dorrado said:


> I have arp rod bolts for the motor i am freshening up to turbo and was curious if i could just drop the oil pan and replace the rod bolts that way? would taking 1 stock rod bolt out, replacing with an ARP rod bolt, removing the other stock bolt and replacing with another ARP rod bolt be sufficient? Or would this ruin the rod bearings?
> 
> thanks for any advice


You can do so, and honestly I advise doing it this way if not resizing/machining the Rods. Doing them in the engine with the ARP Assembly Lube is the ONLY way to do them in the car. 
Hand Tighten them, then toque to spec. 

Might want to consider doing Rod Bearings if you have not done them yet. You can sneak them in to the rod carefully without having to remove them. :thumbup:


----------



## Macks04GLI (Jul 20, 2007)

DUBZAK said:


> FLUKE
> 
> 
> 
> The only other car to use the same OEM MAF is the Passat. P/N 021 906 461. List is $488.91 with a core charge most likely.


Dubzak,

Thanks. Massairflow.com has some pretty competive prices. I'm getting a MAF for my mini and I need for the Corrado also. I have bought a used VR6 MAF and if it solves my issue I will buy a new one. Those buggers are damn expensive.


----------



## Macks04GLI (Jul 20, 2007)

Macks04GLI said:


> Dubzak,
> 
> Thanks. Massairflow.com has some pretty competive prices. I'm getting a MAF for my mini and I need for the Corrado also. I have bought a used VR6 MAF and if it solves my issue I will buy a new one. Those buggers are damn expensive.


QUICK: What's the p/n for the 'Rado VR6 MAF? Should they be the same?

Looking to purchase from this website...maybe..

http://www.buyautoparts.com/addtocart/1994_Volkswagen/Corrado/Mass_Air_Flow_Meter/49-00145.html

Thoughts?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Macks04GLI said:


> QUICK: What's the p/n for the 'Rado VR6 MAF? Should they be the same?
> 
> Looking to purchase from this website...maybe..
> 
> ...


021906461
and
021906462

depending on build date


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

Quick sunroof question. I have a damaged b4 moonroof track but the glass, slider shade, & everything else is fine. Can I transfer these parts over to an a3 track?

As far as I know the guides/internals are the same but how is the fitment? Does it need
to be shimmed or anything else?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

PrjktRado1 said:


> Quick sunroof question. I have a damaged b4 moonroof track but the glass, slider shade, & everything else is fine. Can I transfer these parts over to an a3 track?
> 
> As far as I know the guides/internals are the same but how is the fitment? Does it need
> to be shimmed or anything else?


All Moonroofs needs finesse to be fitted. All moonroof Tracks look identical, only real difference is the glass and some of the later ones have better metal used in the track hooks. . So YES to your Question.


----------



## clintg60-16v (Dec 13, 2002)

DUBZAK said:


> All Moonroofs needs finesse to be fitted. All moonroof Tracks look identical, only real difference is the glass and some of the later ones have better metal used in the track hooks. . So YES to your Question.


I will add, that the B4 track came from factory with a washer on each side near the center section for use when bolting up. With an A3 track, this shim will no longer necessary. You will have no issues trading tracks; I've done the same job.


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

Finally got my Corrado running after a lng 10 months..been driving the car the last week trying to use up the old gas that's in it. Any way I filled it back up and three days go by and I see its at 3/4 I figured that's was pretty good the a few more days go by and same thing now I began to worry. Now to day as I was driving I saw it was all the way down at E so I was like OK good now its working? So I put like 20 bucks **** didn't even effing budge...so now I want to know did the floater fall off or is it stuck? Any ideas


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Anyone got the pin diagram For the ecu connector? As in what pin does what.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

G60Ron said:


> Finally got my Corrado running after a lng 10 months..been driving the car the last week trying to use up the old gas that's in it. Any way I filled it back up and three days go by and I see its at 3/4 I figured that's was pretty good the a few more days go by and same thing now I began to worry. Now to day as I was driving I saw it was all the way down at E so I was like OK good now its working? So I put like 20 bucks **** didn't even effing budge...so now I want to know did the floater fall off or is it stuck? Any ideas


Open hatch, pull carpet up, remove 3 screws on fuel pump access. Take flat head screw driver and hammer and tap locking ring in counter clockwise direction. Pull pump and sender assembly out and check.



jettalvr41 said:


> Anyone got the pin diagram For the ecu connector? As in what pin does what.


Yes. Which ECU?


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

TheBurninator said:


> Open hatch, pull carpet up, remove 3 screws on fuel pump access. Take flat head screw driver and hammer and tap locking ring in counter clockwise direction. Pull pump and sender assembly out and check.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes. Which ECU?


 Sorry, vr6 slc 1992


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jettalvr41 said:


> Sorry, vr6 slc 1992


Dizzy or coilpack? Assuming dizzy since it is a 92


----------



## Vdubspot (Dec 3, 2011)

*what is this*

can any1 tell me what exactly this is, what it does, and what it might be worth.


















i'd appreciate it, thanks.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Vdubspot said:


> can any1 tell me what exactly this is, what it does, and what it might be worth.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Brake light switch. $3.00.


----------



## Vdubspot (Dec 3, 2011)

*what is ithis*

thank you.


----------



## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

clintg60-16v said:


> I will add, that the B4 track came from factory with a washer on each side near the center section for use when bolting up. With an A3 track, this shim will no longer necessary. You will have no issues trading tracks; I've done the same job.


Thanks guys :thumbup: I remember reading on here that you had to shim the track so it sits flush with the roof but it may have been the b3. That's what I was asking when I mentioned
shimming & fitment of the track.


----------



## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

TheBurninator said:


> Open hatch, pull carpet up, remove 3 screws on fuel pump access. Take flat head screw driver and hammer and tap locking ring in counter clockwise direction. Pull pump and sender assembly out and check.
> 
> Well I pulled it out half way put every thing back on and now its marking so I think I'm good


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

TheBurninator said:


> Dizzy or coilpack? Assuming dizzy since it is a 92


Yes dizzy. I have vems ecu just want a diagram to know what all I can ditch from factory harness.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jettalvr41 said:


> Yes dizzy. I have vems ecu just want a diagram to know what all I can ditch from factory harness.


I have a MS to Dizzy pinout along with info on how to trigger the ECU to turn on. Not sure if that is needed on the VEMS setup or not.

Wiring Schedule:
Motronic T68 Pin # ---- MS Pin # --- Function

1,7,10,33,55,56 ---- 8-19 --- Ground

36 ---------------------20-------- IAT+
14----------------------21--------CLT+
41----------------------26--------TPS+
40----------------------22--------TPS 
20----------------------23--------O2
67----------------------24--------VR+
68----------------------7----------VR-/VR Shield
22----------------------25--------Tach
27----------------------27--------PWM 12v
23----------------------28--------12v supply
53----------------------30--------PWM Idle (Fidle)
3,24,26-------------32/33-------INJA
2,4,25--------------34/35--------INJB
8-----------------------36---------Ignition Out
6-----------------------37----------Fuel Pump (Relay)
28---------------------37----------Heated O2 (Relay)
X-----------------------29----------Launch


T68/9 needs to be pulled to ground to turn the ECM relay on. There's a 12v ignition hot supply on T68/38 that does this for the stock ECU.
Relay wiring below:

Relay Pin-------Motronic Pin
30---------------T68/7
87---------------T68/9
85---------------T68/38
86 --------------T68/7

The above circuit should only be needed for OBD1 installations, OBD2 will switch on the ECU with ignition hot and doesn't use that relay.


----------



## Ktor (Jun 30, 2011)

*Electrical*

Hey guys! I'm building my Corrado for a half a year now. About once a week i used to start the engine and let it run for a couple of minutes. This time i wanted to start it the car had no contact. I removed the plastic around the cylinder and found this.. 
the red/brown wire is fried.. Is this common, or do you have any idea what could've caused it?
It's a 1.8 16v


----------



## chrisvw03 (Apr 5, 2012)

*vw jetta 1.8t 03 swap*

Does anyone now where I might be able to get a full conversion kit for my auto jetta I hate auto cars and don't mind the wrk but finding something to swap into it is hard to find so if you have any suggestions on what would be good please let me now


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Ktor said:


> Hey guys! I'm building my Corrado for a half a year now. About once a week i used to start the engine and let it run for a couple of minutes. This time i wanted to start it the car had no contact. I removed the plastic around the cylinder and found this..
> the red/brown wire is fried.. Is this common, or do you have any idea what could've caused it?
> It's a 1.8 16v


You have a short, could be at the ignition switch or the wire physically grounding out somewhere else, follow the wire, replacement is a must!



chrisvw03 said:


> Does anyone now where I might be able to get a full conversion kit for my auto jetta I hate auto cars and don't mind the wrk but finding something to swap into it is hard to find so if you have any suggestions on what would be good please let me now


Try the MKIV forums :screwy:


----------



## mattrip (Sep 5, 2005)

Can anyone determine from the pics below if this is a stock shifter assembly?

Unit is installed in a immobile 92' Corrado SLC. Reason for the question is it looks different than the one in my 92' G60.


----------



## joebarteam (Mar 1, 2012)

Common VW question. How hard is it to make a FWD a RWD?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

joebarteam said:


> Common VW question. How hard is it to make a FWD a RWD?


:facepalm:

"If you have to ask then you probably can't/shouldn't do it"


----------



## joebarteam (Mar 1, 2012)

RedYellowWhite said:


> :facepalm:
> 
> "If you have to ask then you probably can't/shouldn't do it"


I never said i was going to do it. It´s just something that i´ve been wondering about


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

OK gents, VR6 fuel line replacement tonight. I have -4 and -6 braided line at home, which one is used to replace fuel lines? 

I read somewhere that fuel lines were 5mm so I am guessing -4 but need to be sure


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

mattrip said:


> Can anyone determine from the pics below if this is a stock shifter assembly?
> 
> Unit is installed in a immobile 92' Corrado SLC. Reason for the question is it looks different than the one in my 92' G60.


 
Looks stock to me, just painted in some areas??


----------



## deemee (Aug 7, 2011)

So I'm replacing my hood cable with a new one with the gruven parts clip and two new cable anchors, My question is for the driver side how do I position the anchor so it proper opens the hood when I pull the cable? I understand that the hook need to be pulled inwards but im alittle confused for the driver side. Thanks in advanced.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

deemee said:


> So I'm replacing my hood cable with a new one with the gruven parts clip and two new cable anchors, My question is for the driver side how do I position the anchor so it proper opens the hood when I pull the cable? I understand that the hook need to be pulled inwards but im alittle confused for the driver side. Thanks in advanced.


 Driver side floats, only the PS is clenched on on the cable


----------



## deemee (Aug 7, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Driver side floats, only the PS is clenched on on the cable


 so it doesn't need to be bolted down? Does anyone have a pic so I can get a better understanding?


----------



## mattrip (Sep 5, 2005)

> so it doesn't need to be bolted down? Does anyone have a pic so I can get a better understanding?


 This should help... 

http://www.bethandjames.com/corrado_hood_release.htm


----------



## CTVWNewb (Apr 8, 2012)

Hi I'm new to the forum and vw jetta all around. I have a 2004 jetta gls 1.8 with a check engine light reading error code p0411 anyone else experience this? If so, how can I resolve this. I just purchased the vehicle with 180,000 miles had filthy filters still from dealership that I replaced and I also changed the oil. Car fax and emissions both was clean hen I purchased vehicle. I have to bring to emissions on the 24th of April so I need this fixed asap... Pls anyone help. Thanks I advance


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

CTVWNewb said:


> Hi I'm new to the forum and vw jetta all around. I have a 2004 jetta gls 1.8 with a check engine light reading error code p0411 anyone else experience this? If so, how can I resolve this. I just purchased the vehicle with 180,000 miles had filthy filters still from dealership that I replaced and I also changed the oil. Car fax and emissions both was clean hen I purchased vehicle. I have to bring to emissions on the 24th of April so I need this fixed asap... Pls anyone help. Thanks I advance


 This is a Corrado specific forum. Try the mk4 forum...


----------



## B-RADD (Sep 6, 2010)

This seem like a decent deal/idea? 

http://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/2938543489.html 

Looking for a cheap project and came across this during my search. Owner says it has frame damage and was in the accident but it doesn't look like it was hit that hard and might be repairable. Any opinions on this from you guys?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

B-RADD said:


> This seem like a decent deal/idea?
> 
> http://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/2938543489.html
> 
> Looking for a cheap project and came across this during my search. Owner says it has frame damage and was in the accident but it doesn't look like it was hit that hard and might be repairable. Any opinions on this from you guys?


 $500 Car. Needing $6K. Corrado's are NOT cheap Project cars.


----------



## B-RADD (Sep 6, 2010)

That's what I was planning on offering, but after further consideration I determined that frame damage is not something I have the time/money/experience to deal with. Thanks for the reply.


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

Why when my heated seats are off, do they always feel like they are on? Not like 5 but still feels like they on low?


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Tk2g60 said:


> Why when my heated seats are off, do they always feel like they are on? Not like 5 but still feels like they on low?


 Take your harness loose at the seat an check for voltage when it's off. It should be zero. Or open. If not you have most likely a bad rheostat.


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Now for my question. I work at VW and even with my employee discount our parts guy is a asshat. Anyone know of a cheaper place to get OEM style connectors an pins for wiring? I'm rebuilding my engine harness and would love the help. VW doesn't even offer open pins!


----------



## eyepoppet (May 2, 2011)

Im working on a 11/89 corrado G60 
So I've been re -wiring the engine bay and I have 4 wires that I cant seem to map out. 
One is a solid yellow wire that comes from 5 pin ecu harness, another is the violet black wire that comes out of the fuel pump after run relay, there's a blue/white wire that I have no clue about, And a white wire from K/11 harness that's the rear spoiler control unit ground. I cant seem to track down were they plug in. Not the best at reading wiring diagrams yet, the answer might just be right in front of me but i lack the experience to see it. any help would be nice. 

here's my thread Pics inside. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...on-primary-resistiance-and-interchangeability


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

If I remember correctly from my g60 the blue and white one aren't used. Or is some sort of Diag wire. iirc


----------



## Gaspo2k (Mar 27, 2012)

clintg60-16v said:


> I will add, that the B4 track came from factory with a washer on each side near the center section for use when bolting up. With an A3 track, this shim will no longer necessary. You will have no issues trading tracks; I've done the same job.


 So u r saying that with a A3 track u shouldn't have any problems and is a straight swap? My sunroof opens(slides ) half way and it gets stuck. I read somewhere that some clips break inside...


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Gaspo2k said:


> So u r saying that with a A3 track u shouldn't have any problems and is a straight swap? My sunroof opens(slides ) half way and it gets stuck. I read somewhere that some clips break inside...


 Ya there are some cheap pot metal clips that hold the glass to the motor part. But they break all the time. EEP or someone sells a fix kit for it.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Gaspo2k said:


> So u r saying that with a A3 track u shouldn't have any problems and is a straight swap? My sunroof opens(slides ) half way and it gets stuck. I read somewhere that some clips break inside...


 But the A3 Glass will not fit and you cannot use the Corrado Sunroof panel on the Moonroof Tracks.


----------



## defjam (Apr 3, 2012)

Hey, 
does everyone know, whether is something missing here or not? 
It's a rubber made pipe, that sucks air when engine is running. 
Should it be like this? 
*1.* 








*2.*


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

jettalvr41 said:


> Ya there are some cheap pot metal clips that hold the glass to the motor part. But they break all the time. EEP or someone sells a fix kit for it.


 Not on the newer tracks  



defjam said:


> Hey,
> does everyone know, whether is something missing here or not?
> It's a rubber made pipe, that sucks air when engine is running.
> Should it be like this?
> ...


 That is the hose for the block breather, you should have it route to the intake like the hose above or route to a catch can :thumbup:


----------



## drew93slc (Apr 5, 2010)

anyone know the disadvantages of sand blasting a cars body? I seem to remember hearing it was a bad idea, but whatever the po sprayed the car with wont come off properly with normal sanding so I was going to do the sand blasting route. anything to look out for or is it a good idea/terrible idea? tia for the advice 

-Drew


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

drew93slc said:


> anyone know the disadvantages of sand blasting a cars body? I seem to remember hearing it was a bad idea, but whatever the po sprayed the car with wont come off properly with normal sanding so I was going to do the sand blasting route. anything to look out for or is it a good idea/terrible idea? tia for the advice
> 
> -Drew


 Soda Blast :thumbup:


----------



## drew93slc (Apr 5, 2010)

yup thats whats goin down :thumbup:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Soda Blast :thumbup:


 :thumbup::thumbup: :beer: 

Soda blasting is the only thing I would do if I was blasting as shell. Or acid dipping...


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Soda Blast :thumbup:


 x3 :thumbup:


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Three questions:
1. Any available sealed rear hubs like Mkiv style or something.
2. Where to get factory style wiring pins and connectors. 
3.any way to use Mkiv trunk popper and gas lid popper? 


Please provide any info, if not I'll figure it out I guess.


----------



## ratatat (Nov 28, 2008)

Hey all. 

Question, trying to get my car running again, it is a G60, and I have gone over just about much of what needs replaced/checked. But it still wont turn over. 

I checked the timing with my brother the other day, and am thinking it may be an ignition switch. I have the thread saved for this process, but ( I will change it this weekend regardless) if I am not getting anything at all from my motor and have tried countless times to try and turn over the car with a decent battery would the ignition switch be a likely cause? 

I have read and know it can be an issue, but am trying to get other ideas of what to also fix/change if I need to to get my car rolling again. Would like to drive it this summer for sure. 

Let me know what you all think. From what I can tell the ignition system is in working order, grounds are fine, the coil was changed tuesday, battery is decent, and the wires are hooked up properly.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

jettalvr41 said:


> Three questions:
> 1. Any available sealed rear hubs like Mkiv style or something.
> 2. Where to get factory style wiring pins and connectors.
> 3.any way to use Mkiv trunk popper and gas lid popper?
> ...


 1. Not sure 
2. bmotorsports.com or the dealer 
3. search username xtremevdub or the DIY thread 



ratatat said:


> Hey all.
> 
> Question, trying to get my car running again, it is a G60, and I have gone over just about much of what needs replaced/checked. But it still wont turn over.
> 
> ...


 I assume you are not getting spark? There are plenty of test procedures located in the Bentley. What are the symptoms? Not turning over, i.e. starter?


----------



## ratatat (Nov 28, 2008)

Correct no spark. I may add it has not run since it died along the road and we drug it home. The distributor timing was not set perfectly yet when it died. Enough to get it up and running before hand though. The starter and such were working before this, so even the coil I replaced may have been fine, BUT I do need to check the bentley further to check out the starter also it seems.


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

So I'm planning on doing a cooling system overhaul on my 93 Corrado vr6. I have tried the search function with no results. 

Is there an entire kit I can order, or do I have to order peice per peice. I'd like to replace pretty much everything that has to do with the cooling system including all sensors. 

This is the first major service I've done to my Corrado, and would like to have all the parts I'm going to need. Thanks.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

1956dub said:


> So I'm planning on doing a cooling system overhaul on my 93 Corrado vr6. I have tried the search function with no results.
> 
> Is there an entire kit I can order, or do I have to order peice per peice. I'd like to replace pretty much everything that has to do with the cooling system including all sensors.
> 
> This is the first major service I've done to my Corrado, and would like to have all the parts I'm going to need. Thanks.


http://www.fourseasontuning.com/index.php?product=85&product_code=VR6COOLINGKIT12V


----------



## deemee (Aug 7, 2011)

I don"t own a Bentley yet but I am looking for the stereo wiring diagram for a 92 SLC. I am trying to install a pioneer unit but the car harness is chopped and screwed up and I'm a bit lost. Also I have no clue where this wire below would connect to. The unit manual says connect it to the auto-antenna relay control terminal


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

deemee said:


> I don"t own a Bentley yet but I am looking for the stereo wiring diagram for a 92 SLC. I am trying to install a pioneer unit but the car harness is chopped and screwed up and I'm a bit lost. Also I have no clue where this wire below would connect to. The unit manual says connect it to the auto-antenna relay control terminal


We don't have automatic antenna's on the Corrado 

Looks like a remote wire for an amp


----------



## deemee (Aug 7, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> We don't have automatic antenna's on the Corrado
> 
> Looks like a remote wire for an amp


Yea that's why I am confused? and I don't have an amp so I guess I just leave it alone. Also this is how my car harness looks like. I have no idea what goes where. A wire diagram would help alot.


----------



## 91vwmk2 (Oct 1, 2011)

*90 vw g60 corrado*

I know this a dumb question, but how do u take off the front bumper without breaking it?
Also another question I have is , where is the ignition modular?


----------



## mikIIVr6 (Dec 12, 2007)

93 corrado vr6

problem is my coolant randomly starts dumping it, i can sometime feel the coolant boiling in the tubes when the coolant is rated to 129celcius and my digital temp reading says i'm only at 90. Anyone know whats going on here?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

91vwmk2 said:


> I know this a dumb question, but how do u take off the front bumper without breaking it?
> Also another question I have is , where is the ignition modular?


 4 bolts, unbolt them and pull/slide the bumper out....

Regarding the ignition contol module, what car, G60?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

deemee said:


> Yea that's why I am confused? and I don't have an amp so I guess I just leave it alone. Also this is how my car harness looks like. I have no idea what goes where. A wire diagram would help alot.


I've had to do several head unit installs on non VW cars without a Bentley. You need 12v on ACC & a ground, pretty much it... If I had a scanner, I'd PDF the Benley pages, but you can always google or vortex search "corrado bentley download" :beer:



91vwmk2 said:


> I know this a dumb question, but how do u take off the front bumper without breaking it?
> Also another question I have is , where is the ignition modular?


4 17mm bolts on framerails, slides right off :thumbup: *SUPPORT CROSSMEMBER WITH A JACK PRIOR TO REMOVING BOLTS* The smaller bolt "nutcerts" if you will, will sometimes rust and free from support



mikIIVr6 said:


> 93 corrado vr6
> 
> problem is my coolant randomly starts dumping it, i can sometime feel the coolant boiling in the tubes when the coolant is rated to 129celcius and my digital temp reading says i'm only at 90. Anyone know whats going on here?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> 4 bolts, unbolt them and pull/slide the bumper out....


I had the same question when I bought mine :beer:


----------



## mattsgota325i (Mar 2, 2006)

what is the easiest way to move my stuck seat belts from the front all the way back so that i can use them and not get a ticket 

-thanks
matt


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

mattsgota325i said:


> what is the easiest way to move my stuck seat belts from the front all the way back so that i can use them and not get a ticket
> 
> -thanks
> matt


you can take the motor out so the gear moves free, or you can do what i did, which is easiest and just get eurobelts hahaha


----------



## mattsgota325i (Mar 2, 2006)

and the motor is located behind the b pillars trim??


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Pull the rear card and b pillar to access the motor


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Mines actually stuck too. Its like in front of the passengers neck :laugh:


----------



## ubiquitoussmokey (Mar 23, 2007)

*wiper springs 90 G60*

I'm sure this issue has been addressed many times but I'll present it once more... is there a source for a stronger spring for the front windshield wiper arms? I can never see clearly when it rains because the wipers won't stay close enough to remove all of the rain. Thanks for any suggestions.


----------



## deemee (Aug 7, 2011)

ubiquitoussmokey said:


> I'm sure this issue has been addressed many times but I'll present it once more... is there a source for a stronger spring for the front windshield wiper arms? I can never see clearly when it rains because the wipers won't stay close enough to remove all of the rain. Thanks for any suggestions.


http://web.mac.com/thedubnutz/theDubNutz/Corrado_Wiper_Mod.html


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## Asian Andy (Mar 21, 2011)

*G60 Issues...*

Im having issues with my 90 g60 rado. The car runs perfectly it seems when it is sitting still. revs high and strong and sounds amazing. But the second i get on the throttle on the road (around 3000rpm), the car shudders like a small dog. Is it the fuel pump, fuel filter, or maybe something more? seems weird if it were pump or filter if it revs through all ranges while sitting still and doesnt when its moving.
Also having issues with the power steering rack. I just replaced it and i have one pressure hose from the pump to the rack. I got another resevoir to rack hose but it comes with no connections to the rack. Am i missing something here too? Some part # i dont know about?
And... having issues with the power windows. I replaced the module and nothing happens. The switches were replaced, the wiring seems normal, and still nothing. Any other leads? 
Annnnd... i think thats it. For now


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Asian Andy said:


> ...And... having issues with the power windows. I replaced the module and nothing happens. The switches were replaced, the wiring seems normal, and still nothing. Any other leads?
> Annnnd... i think thats it. For now


Have you checked/replaced the fuse?
Do you hear a click when u press the switch? Might also be the regulators themselfs...


----------



## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

93 Corrado VR6

Flashed my codes today, and had a 2113 camshaft position sensor open or fault. Where is the cam sensor and does anyone know where the wires go. I'd Like to be able to ohm out the sensor and the wiring before I start to tear loom apart.

Edit: Nevermind. Seems at some point during the head install i ripped the wiring clean out of the distributor.

Edit#2: Is the hall effects in the distributor replaceable or do I need a new dizzy?


----------



## defjam (Apr 3, 2012)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Not on the newer tracks
> 
> 
> 
> That is the hose for the block breather, you should have it route to the intake like the hose above or route to a catch can :thumbup:


 Okey, thank you. 
Could you show me(or tell me), if you know, where to should it be connected?
To the air cleaner, or below? 
I didn't really see there some kinda of a can or intake with a missing hose.


----------



## FBjr (Apr 20, 2009)

*Dying problem*

Ok so I posted this before and got no answers. My raddo keeps dying on me. When just idling the lights in my dash sit and flicker. Trying to back out of the driveway usually kills it. Sometimes it will go from idling at 900rpm to 1000rpm for no reason. Yesterday I pushed down on the back of my car and listened to my fuel pump. Not thinking at all got off my car and it died. So I duplicated it and usually it would make it stall out just bouncing my car up and down in the back, not the front. Pushing down my pump sounds fine, but when my car is at where it sits normally it sounds like its struggling. Could this be a blockage in my fuel filter? Or a pinched fuel line? Or is this one of corrados famous electrical problems? I've checked all my grounds. They are all clean and shiny now. Also last night it wouldn't start at all after dying and my drivers side kick panel was clicking when I was trying to start it, and once I got it started it just kept bogging down and when I gave it gas it was like it just couldn't receive it, then all of a sudden it would get fuel? I'm stuck. I don't want to throw money at it blindly. I did just replace the pump but haven't gotten around to the filter yet.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

FBjr said:


> Ok so I posted this before and got no answers. My raddo keeps dying on me. When just idling the lights in my dash sit and flicker. Trying to back out of the driveway usually kills it. Sometimes it will go from idling at 900rpm to 1000rpm for no reason. Yesterday I pushed down on the back of my car and listened to my fuel pump. Not thinking at all got off my car and it died. So I duplicated it and usually it would make it stall out just bouncing my car up and down in the back, not the front. Pushing down my pump sounds fine, but when my car is at where it sits normally it sounds like its struggling. Could this be a blockage in my fuel filter? Or a pinched fuel line? Or is this one of corrados famous electrical problems? I've checked all my grounds. They are all clean and shiny now. Also last night it wouldn't start at all after dying and my drivers side kick panel was clicking when I was trying to start it, and once I got it started it just kept bogging down and when I gave it gas it was like it just couldn't receive it, then all of a sudden it would get fuel? I'm stuck. I don't want to throw money at it blindly. I did just replace the pump but haven't gotten around to the filter yet.


1st, Complete your profile and put year, model, and motor so people can try to help you. When posting provide this information too. 
You have done all that but where is your Bentley Manual? And why haven't you checked Voltage? Obviously the charging system needs to be checked again, and at least you checked grounds first. 
If you are not capable of diagnosing to the point of finding the problem, seek professional assistance.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

defjam said:


> Okey, thank you.
> Could you show me(or tell me), if you know, where to should it be connected?
> To the air cleaner, or below?
> I didn't really see there some kinda of a can or intake with a missing hose.


Should connect to the airbox, inlet hose or to a catch can. You can route to the atmosphere, but will have oil vapors in your bay dirtying everything up and is not the best for the environment...


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## njloco (Apr 2, 2009)

*EGR ?*

93 VR6, car drives pretty good but sometimes it sounds and acts like it's not firing on all cylinders. Starts up without a hitch but then starts to sputter. It would also clear up as I am driving and when it does it feels like a supercharger kicked in, usually once it corrects itself it stays running very well.

I have also noticed when this sputtering starts to happen if I stop, I get smoke coming from the back of the motor, between the firewall and the back of the engine. Can't really tell if it smells like oil or fuel, there is no residue left on the exhaust pipes, and nothing has caught on fire as yet, and I don't seem to be burning any oil.

My question is, could the EGR be causing this, I checked the wires as much as could be seen without taking anything apart so far, and when it was smoking and still running I couldn't see anything dripping on the exhaust pipes but the smoke is coming off the pipes all the way down passed the first muffler, is it possible that it is unburned fuel and that is why it's hard to figure out what it smells like ?, very puzzeling.

Oh, I did take the A/C compressor out and the condensor. 

Good question, I am pretty sure it's a coil pack since I don't see an actual distributor, like on an older american car. the spark plug wires come out of a box, hope that helps. 

Thanks


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

njloco said:


> 93 VR6, car drives pretty good but sometimes it sounds and acts like it's not firing on all cylinders. Starts up without a hitch but then starts to sputter. It would also clear up as I am driving and when it does it feels like a supercharger kicked in, usually once it corrects itself it stays running very well.
> 
> I have also noticed when this sputtering starts to happen if I stop, I get smoke coming from the back of the motor, between the firewall and the back of the engine. Can't really tell if it smells like oil or fuel, there is no residue left on the exhaust pipes, and nothing has caught on fire as yet, and I don't seem to be burning any oil.
> 
> ...


Coil Pack or Distributor Car?


----------



## njloco (Apr 2, 2009)

*Coil pack:*

It is a coil pack and i did a search on it, it's probably the coil pack and it's going bad, and it's unburned fuel that is making the back of the engine and the exhaust pipes smoke.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Spray Water On the Coil Pak using a mist sprayer. If it starts to Arch, that is your issue. 

Look into MSD Coil Conversion because it is WAY cheaper than oem coils and fail less.


----------



## FBjr (Apr 20, 2009)

*Frustrated*



DUBZAK said:


> 1st, Complete your profile and put year, model, and motor so people can try to help you. When posting provide this information too.
> You have done all that but where is your Bentley Manual? And why haven't you checked Voltage? Obviously the charging system needs to be checked again, and at least you checked grounds first.
> If you are not capable of diagnosing to the point of finding the problem, seek professional assistance.


Ok i updated my profile, sorry im brand new to this and im jumping into a corrado. Its frustrating. anyways its a 1990, Corrado VR6 swap,


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

FBjr said:


> Ok i updated my profile, sorry im brand new to this and im jumping into a corrado. Its frustrating. anyways its a 1990, Corrado VR6 swap,


You need to go through the wiring. Swap cars are NIGHTMARES unless you are an electrical Genius and can read wiring diagrams. 

Being a swap, What ECU and Harness were used. Without this information, nobody will be able to help you.


----------



## mattsgota325i (Mar 2, 2006)

driving on my way to work this morning smoke started coming through my dash.. smelled coolant and noticed it was leaking in my car down by my gas pedal and the cluster.. did my heater core take a **** or is there something else it could be? also if its the heater core whats the easiest way to go about bypassing it for the time being?


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Ok my car will stall out if I pull out of gear and coast at speeds above 50mph WTF???


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

mattsgota325i said:


> driving on my way to work this morning smoke started coming through my dash.. smelled coolant and noticed it was leaking in my car down by my gas pedal and the cluster.. did my heater core take a **** or is there something else it could be? also if its the heater core whats the easiest way to go about bypassing it for the time being?


 Heater core took a dump


----------



## Dorrado (Dec 12, 2001)

so i broke an exhaust manifold stud, tried to weld a nut on it to back it out, it broke the stud off flush with the head. Drill it out and try an easy out, lifetime warranty easy out breaks and is now near impossible to drill through. 

This is the middle bottom exhaust manifold stud. Will the exhaust leak if i just don't run a stud here? or is it best to buy some drill bits and make it happen? 

Thanks for any help


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

apryllukes78 said:


> Hi,
> I found few great deals on:
> 
> http://*****************
> ...


   
This one!!! 
http://*****************/?i=Volkswagen-Golf-/140738793350?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item20c4af8f86


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Dorrado said:


> so i broke an exhaust manifold stud, tried to weld a nut on it to back it out, it broke the stud off flush with the head. Drill it out and try an easy out, lifetime warranty easy out breaks and is now near impossible to drill through.
> 
> This is the middle bottom exhaust manifold stud. Will the exhaust leak if i just don't run a stud here? or is it best to buy some drill bits and make it happen?
> 
> Thanks for any help


 I'd think it would leak


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

HavokRuels said:


> Ok my car will stall out if I pull out of gear and coast at speeds above 50mph WTF???


 .


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

just making sure i am understanding this here. This means i would need atleast a 3mm spacer my wheels fit fine in the rear but when i finally test fitted the front they were rubbing I was really hoping i woul't need spacers but no such luck for me. 

thanks for the help:beer:


----------



## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

I have a G60 fiberglass hood and I would like to use it on my VR6. Will every thing line up when on? Rain tray rail, bolts, hood latch, etc.


----------



## V4310W (Nov 18, 2011)

Can anyone tell me if these are the correct fuses? 










Bentley says these fuses should be 30, 30, 30 and 20 amps. I've searched and haven't found much info on these fuses. Are these correct and the Bentley wrong? Or are the three 10 amp fuses supposed to be 30's? Thanks in advance :thumbup:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

crisvr6 said:


> stupid spammer


 :facepalm: 



HavokRuels said:


> .


 Check your idle & WOT microswitches, mine used to stall out when I brought it out of higher RPM's


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Check your idle & WOT microswitches, mine used to stall out when I brought it out of higher RPM's


 It's the SLC that's having this problem.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> It's the SLC that's having this problem.


 MAybe some VR guys will come thru to help you out :thumbup:


----------



## crisvr6 (Jun 14, 2007)

vr6 haz no problems :laugh:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> Ok my car will stall out if I pull out of gear and coast at speeds above 50mph WTF???


 Check and Clean ISV. Any Vacuum Leaks or Intake Leaks will cause this.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

crisvr6 said:


> vr6 haz no problems :laugh:


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

On the antenna on the Corrado there are 2 wires apposed to 1 wire like the b4 passat and a mk4 Jetta I pulled from the junkyard. Is the little 2nd wire nesacerry? 

Corrado harnesses 









Mk4 antenna plug (same as b4 passat) which I also have


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

DUBZAK said:


> Check and Clean ISV. Any Vacuum Leaks or Intake Leaks will cause this.


 on it! thanks!


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

g60301 said:


> On the antenna on the Corrado there are 2 wires apposed to 1 wire like the b4 passat and a mk4 Jetta I pulled from the junkyard. Is the little 2nd wire nesacerry?
> 
> Corrado harnesses
> 
> ...


 Amplified VS Not Amplified.


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

^^^dubzak can i use a mk4 antenna even though its not amplified? I'm not using my activ system anyways. Am I good to go?


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

crisvr6 said:


> vr6 haz no problems :laugh:


 QFT


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

crisvr6 said:


> vr6 haz no problems :laugh:


 :laugh: 



g60301 said:


> ^^^dubzak can i use a mk4 antenna even though its not amplified? I'm not using my activ system anyways. Am I good to go?


 Ya, radio reception won't be as good as amplified


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> :laugh:
> 
> 
> 
> Ya, radio reception won't be as good as amplified


 I think ill live. Thanks :beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

g60301 said:


> I think ill live. Thanks :beer:


 :beer:


----------



## eavalos15 (Oct 9, 2011)

Does any one know of a cheap O2 sensor? I read that a O2 from a ford Taurus 90 (Cheap) will work for a 16v but anyone knows if it will work with a G60?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

eavalos15 said:


> Does any one know of a cheap O2 sensor? I read that a O2 from a ford Taurus 90 (Cheap) will work for a 16v but anyone knows if it will work with a G60?


 Ford Mustang 5.0 85'ish search the G60 technical forum for more info :thumbup:


----------



## Beilman (Feb 16, 2006)

maybe a stupid question and def. might have been asked before but can a g60 catback fit right up in a vr6?


----------



## deemee (Aug 7, 2011)

Found 2 codes with the car not running, I know the speed sensor will show no signal with the car off but what about the idle speed regulation? Any idea on how to approach this? I will try to read the codes again with the car running next time. 

2 Faults Found: 
00533 - Idle Speed Regulation 
10-10 - Adaptation Limit Not Reached - Intermittent 
00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28) 
03-00 - No Signal 
Readiness: N/A


----------



## VR6_Socal_Rado (Mar 26, 2012)

Was wondering if the sun roof motor covers are the same in the g60 and SLC on a 93?


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

VR6_Socal_Rado said:


> Was wondering if the sun roof motor covers are the same in the g60 and SLC on a 93?


 yes


----------



## yip (Jul 14, 2003)

VR6_Socal_Rado said:


> Was wondering if the sun roof motor covers are the same in the g60 and SLC on a 93?


 No...The 93+ interiors have the sunroof switch integrated into the dome light. 92 or older have a separate switch from the dome light on the cover.


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

deemee said:


> Found 2 codes with the car not running, I know the speed sensor will show no signal with the car off but what about the idle speed regulation? Any idea on how to approach this? I will try to read the codes again with the car running next time.
> 
> 2 Faults Found:
> 00533 - Idle Speed Regulation
> ...


 idle speed regulation sounds to me like a issue with ISV. and g28 typcally is a bad crank sensor.


----------



## CorradoMan1 (Dec 19, 2009)

Ok. So im deleting the a/c cause 30% of the lines are busted... And i rarely use a/c. I have most of the process figured out except for the wiring to the fan relays on the radiator... which one is actually needed for motor cooling... Mine seem to be wired together for some reason...


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## VR6_Socal_Rado (Mar 26, 2012)

jettalvr41 said:


> yes





yip said:


> No...The 93+ interiors have the sunroof switch integrated into the dome light. 92 or older have a separate switch from the dome light on the cover.


 Cool thanks making sure bought the wrong one but guess didn't matter


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

It does matter actually, The harnesses are completely different as well as the switches. 

You need a 93+ Verison.


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## VR6_Socal_Rado (Mar 26, 2012)

DUBZAK said:


> It does matter actually, The harnesses are completely different as well as the switches.
> 
> You need a 93+ Verison.


 Yea bought one off a 93 g60 for my 93 SLC


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

VR6_Socal_Rado said:


> Yea bought one off a 93 g60 for my 93 SLC


 Wait.....are you in Europe?


----------



## Beilman (Feb 16, 2006)

can a g60 catback fit on a 92 slc?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Beilman said:


> can a g60 catback fit on a 92 slc?


 Smaller than stock, and hangers are in different areas. So technically no.


----------



## VR6_Socal_Rado (Mar 26, 2012)

DUBZAK said:


> Wait.....are you in Europe?


 Got lucky and found one from Europe !!!! Lol


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

VR6_Socal_Rado said:


> Yea bought one off a 93 g60 for my 93 SLC





DUBZAK said:


> Wait.....are you in Europe?





VR6_Socal_Rado said:


> Got lucky and found one from Europe !!!! Lol


 There weren't '93 G60s in Europe, only until '92...


----------



## mustloveclutch (Jun 17, 2009)

reignofterror said:


> i like this thread. it should be a sticky.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 oh, I wish I'd seen this post 2 1/2 years ago... 

When I'm rockin' the plumber-esque sunburn line from crouching on my bumper for 3 hours to fiddle with those awesome vac lines under the strut bar I'm telling myself I don't need to take off, I'd like to be able to look up and see that quote painted on the underside of my hood... 

and not just feel like a jackass when I realize the neighbor kids have been laughing at me and the inch of now sunburnt ass Ive been showing off. 

Being a corrado chick is super awesome, hot, and amazing, right?  

thank you, Noobercorn.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> There weren't '93 G60s in Europe, only until '92...


 Mikki told me UK got a few 93 Facelifted G60's IIRC?!?!?!


----------



## VR6_Socal_Rado (Mar 26, 2012)

DUBZAK said:


> Mikki told me UK got a few 93 Facelifted G60's IIRC?!?!?!


 Part is coming from Germany.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Can I get some opinions on what you think a fair price for a shop to charge (labour) would be for the following works (*note: I provided all the parts/they didn't have to buy anything*): 
1) remove old calipers & re-install new calipers 
2) replace brake discs/pads/fluid 
3) change control arm bushings (both/kit) 
4) change ball joints 
5) change tie-rod ends


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## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

CorradoMan1 said:


> Ok. So im deleting the a/c cause 30% of the lines are busted... And i rarely use a/c. I have most of the process figured out except for the wiring to the fan relays on the radiator... which one is actually needed for motor cooling... Mine seem to be wired together for some reason...


 technically both. they both work together to cool motor with and without a/c. but i am deleting my a/c too. and i will be adding that to my deleting thread. i want to make a good thread on how to remove all un needed wiring from the vehicle. 

so i will let you know.


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Can I get some opinions on what you think a fair price for a shop to charge (labour) would be for the following works (*note: I provided all the parts/they didn't have to buy anything*):
> 1) remove old calipers & re-install new calipers
> 2) replace brake discs/pads/fluid
> 3) change control arm bushings (both/kit)
> ...


 1) remove old calipers & re-install new calipers 
*2.0 hours for removal repalce and bleed.* 
2) replace brake discs/pads/fluid 
*add 1.0 to above* 
3) change control arm bushings (both/kit) 
*2.0+ hours cause it sucks a$$ to do if you dont have a press.* 
4) change ball joints 
*1.0 for both sides. pretty easy. * 
5) change tie-rod ends 
* inner and outter? or just outter? if just outter i would say 2.0becasue gonna need an alignment aswell. if both then idk 3.0+ cause it sucks lol* 

alldata shows only .9 hours to do both sides inner and outter with no alignment.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

jettalvr41 said:


> 1) remove old calipers & re-install new calipers
> *2.0 hours for removal repalce and bleed.*
> 2) replace brake discs/pads/fluid
> *add 1.0 to above*
> ...


 Sorry, I meant only front calipers and outer tie-rod ends only... 
The shop has a press. 
Price I'm asking does not include an alignment 

Thanks :beer:


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## deemee (Aug 7, 2011)

So I got a Bentley on CD and it wont open on my laptop which is running vista. When I try to open it is says there is a error with data transmission. I have it running on Windows 98 from the compatibility settings. And I also followed the suggestions from this thread 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-t-work-on-new-computer&p=12585548&viewfull=1 

Any other suggestions?


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## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Where does this go? Fell out from the pillars when I loosened them to put headliner back in. I wanna say they have something to do with the belts? 


















If anyone knows how there positioned or any pics so I can put them back in there place.


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## Adriank (Apr 29, 2012)

Was poking around the engine bay today, and noticed that I may have a vacumm line missing (circled in red). 

Could someone tell me what this part is, and am I missing a line that should be connected to it?


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

g60301 said:


> Where does this go? Fell out from the pillars when I loosened them to put headliner back in. I wanna say they have something to do with the belts?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Coat hanger hook mount. They can only go one way and are held in by coat hanger hook screw


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## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

Can someone tell me what this plug is for and where does it go? My windows arent working and neither is my tach. maybe its related?


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

Adriank said:


> Was poking around the engine bay today, and noticed that I may have a vacumm line missing (circled in red).
> 
> Could someone tell me what this part is, and am I missing a line that should be connected to it?


 That normal, it's release the vacuum from the when the cruise is cancel(brake,clutch,off position) don't plug or route it, just leave it alone.


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> Can someone tell me what this plug is for and where does it go? My windows arent working and neither is my tach. maybe its related?


 Bye looking at your picture, where your radio? I'm really sure it's a plug for the cd changer. Black 10 terminal connector for power,ground,s-contact power fuba antenna, and light for radio, brown 10 terminal connector for your speakers, red 10 terminal connector for factory added cd changer.


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## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Thanks havoc rules. :beer:


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> Can someone tell me what this plug is for and where does it go? My windows arent working and neither is my tach. maybe its related?
> 
> Check your junction box for windows not working, the little yellow,black,green boxes:laugh: just make sure there in right spot. I'm really sure you check all your fuses too.
> As for tach, tach gets signal from ECM, follow your instrument cluster harness and make sure it connector plug in. There 2 big blue ones that connect to fuse box, and the other 3 of 4 connectors plug in right spot. Signal blue is not used(it for auto tran)


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

chc-rado said:


> ItsNotaScirocco said:
> 
> 
> > Can someone tell me what this plug is for and where does it go? My windows arent working and neither is my tach. maybe its related?
> ...


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## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

So today while working on wiring I got really confused. I know this ....









Is the abs harness cause it all plugs into the abs pump. But then what is this....


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

jettalvr41 said:


> So today while working on wiring I got really confused. I know this ....
> 
> Is the abs harness cause it all plugs into the abs pump. But then what is this....
> 
> ...


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

chc-rado said:


> jettalvr41 said:
> 
> 
> > So today while working on wiring I got really confused. I know this ....
> ...


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## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

Okay so long story short... the police seized my corrado 2 days after i took it out of storage :-/ Really really suck as i've waited all winter to drive it, ordered some part and did an oil change the next day and didn't even drove it 100km (nor pushed the rpm pass 3.5k) So they thought they had something about the serial# of the car that was stolen or it has been switched (from another C) 

So anyway now i got it back but it isnt legally drivable (can't register it), nothing was proven to be stolen but the ripped the VIN # telling me it wasnt original... 

Where all the VIN are located on a 1990 ''canadian'' corrado? Dash+Door jamb+Under rain tray. If i could find a way to prove the real identity of the car i could go on from there but otherwise its sadly going to be a part-out of project/race car ( 

Thanks for any helpfull infos


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## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Seb--Morin said:


> Okay so long story short... the police seized my corrado 2 days after i took it out of storage :-/ Really really suck as i've waited all winter to drive it, ordered some part and did an oil change the next day and didn't even drove it 100km (nor pushed the rpm pass 3.5k) So they thought they had something about the serial# of the car that was stolen or it has been switched (from another C)
> 
> So anyway now i got it back but it isnt legally drivable (can't register it), nothing was proven to be stolen but the ripped the VIN # telling me it wasnt original...
> 
> ...


 here in U.S. we have vin stickers on every panel. also here in us. my raintray vin did not match my dash vin, but ! my dash vin matched all other vin's on my car. 

so to prove. i would look for vin stickers on all panels.


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## njloco (Apr 2, 2009)

*engine stil sputtering:*

93 VR6, car drives pretty good but sometimes it sounds and acts like it's not firing on all cylinders. Starts up without a hitch but then starts to sputter. It would also clear up as I am driving and when it does it feels like a supercharger kicked in, usually once it corrects itself it stays running very well. 

I have also noticed when this sputtering starts to happen if I stop, I get smoke coming from the back of the motor, between the firewall and the back of the engine. Can't really tell if it smells like oil or fuel, there is no residue left on the exhaust pipes, and nothing has caught on fire as yet, and I don't seem to be burning any oil. 

My question is, could the EGR be causing this, I checked the wires as much as could be seen without taking anything apart so far, and when it was smoking and still running I couldn't see anything dripping on the exhaust pipes but the smoke is coming off the pipes all the way down passed the first muffler, is it possible that it is unburned fuel and that is why it's hard to figure out what it smells like ?, very puzzeling. 

Oh, I did take the A/C compressor out and the condensor. 

Good question, I am pretty sure it's a coil pack since I don't see an actual distributor, like on an older american car. the spark plug wires come out of a box, hope that helps. 

Thanks 




The above was the original post, I did the Ford coil pack change, seems to run better, but it still starts to sputter but not as much as before. When it goes into sputter mode, It feels like some cylinders are missing since I do loose power, if I stop, I get unburned gasses or smoke coming from the rear of the engine and along the exhaust system, the cat, wires and plugs are good and am thinking something is intermittently making it run rich or I am still loosing spark. 

Could the EGR system cause this ?, it seems to be in good condition, and the car only has 121+ miles on it. 

Thanks


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## Nostalgia (Sep 25, 2003)

About to have the alternator replace on my 1993 Corrado. Can someone give me a parts list for overlapping work? I should have the serp belt replaced too, correct? What about the belt tensioner? Anything else?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Nostalgia said:


> About to have the alternator replace on my 1993 Corrado. Can someone give me a parts list for overlapping work? I should have the serp belt replaced too, correct? What about the belt tensioner? Anything else?


 Water pump is right there too...


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## tenzbac (Oct 15, 2011)

*buying corrado!*

ok so am going to buy a corrado slc . 
now the question is what year should i buy ?is there really a difference? 
i need help ??


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## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

tenzbac said:


> ok so am going to buy a corrado slc .
> now the question is what year should i buy ?is there really a difference?
> i need help ??


 1988-1992 was g60, four lug wheels, old style interior. 1992 vr6 was five lug old style interior. 1993-~1996 was vr6 new style mk3 interior and was five lug wheels. Most interior stuff more closely related to mk3 stuff. IIRC. As far as major differences out side not really any. And as far as drivability not much other then coil pack over dizzy.


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## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Personally I was looking for a vr6 1992 having had a 1989 g60 and not really enjoying It all that much.


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## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Which ones is abs module?







. 











They both say abs but one says EDS as well.


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## Nostalgia (Sep 25, 2003)

TheBurninator said:


> Water pump is right there too...


 http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Corrado--VR6_12v/Search/Water_Pump/ 

Can someone recommend me a part? What is the difference and why are there 7 options? Do I need to replace the pump and the pulley? Is an auxiliary water pump something different?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Nostalgia said:


> http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Corrado--VR6_12v/Search/Water_Pump/
> 
> Can someone recommend me a part? What is the difference and why are there 7 options? Do I need to replace the pump and the pulley? Is an auxiliary water pump something different?


 Aux pump is different, get the one with metal impellers


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## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

chc-rado said:


> ItsNotaScirocco said:
> 
> 
> > Can someone tell me what this plug is for and where does it go? My windows arent working and neither is my tach. maybe its related?
> ...


----------



## raddo_90 (May 1, 2012)

*G60 Headlights*

Ok i dont no much about this car, but i was wanting to no what the normal voltiage for the us headlight should be and how to make them brighter without e-code lights. this is a 1990 also.:banghead:


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## clintg60-16v (Dec 13, 2002)

raddo_90 said:


> Ok i dont no much about this car, but i was wanting to no what the normal voltiage for the us headlight should be and how to make them brighter without e-code lights. this is a 1990 also.:banghead:


 The headlight power is routed through the headlight switch. This causes the headlight switch to get very hot, degrades the plastic, and eventually will lead to a failure.

Relaying the headlights (whether stock or euros) will allow you to route power to the headlights directly from the battery.

This improves the light output (euros, ultimately, are the mod worth investing in).

Simply using the "headlight power" as a trigger for some 40a relays will do the job. "53"-numbered relays are suitable iirc.

If you're not prepared to make a harness, there is a person on the Tex that makes these harnesses. He does very good work. IM for name; he does not advertise.


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## CorradoMan1 (Dec 19, 2009)

ok, i thought i had this figured out... guess i dont, 

Deleted P/S and A/C on my G60, which pulley am i supposed to use on the water pump... is it a VR6 or ABA, and does it need a spacer of some sort? When searching, all you get is a bunch of opinions i guess. Nobody clearly states from what i can see... 

thanks guys.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

CorradoMan1 said:


> ok, i thought i had this figured out... guess i dont,
> 
> Deleted P/S and A/C on my G60, which pulley am i supposed to use on the water pump... is it a VR6 or ABA, and does it need a spacer of some sort? When searching, all you get is a bunch of opinions i guess. Nobody clearly states from what i can see...
> 
> thanks guys.


 Vr6 pulley and iirc the spacer is for the supercharger bracket to compensate for the missing ps pump


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## raddo_90 (May 1, 2012)

*Help fan issues*

I have a 90 G60 and going on the road the fan don't come on and the light on the dash does.... but the wield thing is to me is the after run fan kick on after you shut it off so i no the fan not bad and i have had this car for to years and love it


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Bad fan switch possibly? After run comes on due to no rpm and ecu ect?


----------



## eavalos15 (Oct 9, 2011)

a problem came up today. car lacks to respond when pressing pedal and it seems that it gets stuck there.... for example in a red light it idles nothing wrong but once i want to go it takes FOREVER to rev. then when stop again and stays on high revs around 2000. 

Thats one the other is that Idle seem to be a little unstable when starting to get hot. The car "runs" good without the ISV but if the ISV i connected Idle goes crazy. 

Changing blue sensor and cleaning the throttle sensor tomorrow see if helps my problems. Any suggestions appreciated. But Im thinking is the ECU.


----------



## ubiquitoussmokey (Mar 23, 2007)

*much thanks!*

followed the instructions on the link and now I can see when it rains!


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Best way of cleaning the stock g60 intercooler? Just hose it off? I've never done it before.


----------



## 2925 (Dec 11, 2007)

maybe this is a better question for wheel/tire thread but i figure you guys know about bbs rims. I see a lot of people with the rs001s, is there anything wrong with the rs016? is it because the rim is 6.5 instead of 7? Mainly asking because I might have a deal lined up and wanted to know if I could run them on my g60 or sell them for profit.. Thanks!


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

i couldnt find anything via the search. Anyone know of a good write up on how to remove the mechanical speedo cable from an early g60? I've got one in a parts car of mine that a friend needs, and I cant seem to manage to figure out how to get it out of the transmission. I know it disconnects from the back of the cluster... but i cant seem to find any instruction of how to seperate it from the trans?
I looked through the bentley but all I seem to find in there is the info related to the VSS in the more modern manual trans.


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

If I remember right it just spins out like a newer vss sensor. I could be wrong but that's how my 1989 g60 was and I just gutted the car last month.


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## Seb--Morin (Nov 2, 2010)

jettalvr41 said:


> here in U.S. we have vin stickers on every panel. also here in us. my raintray vin did not match my dash vin, but ! my dash vin matched all other vin's on my car.
> 
> so to prove. i would look for vin stickers on all panels.


Humm i've looked briefly but i don't think the VIN on the fenders (maybe under side) but what i would like to find is the "not so obvious'' spots on the frame...

It's a real nightmare, it's been a month calling back and fwd to figure out what i can do... I got the car back but since they can't find the real/original ''identity' of the car it's not a valid vehicule  It's not even about the swap or misc replacement parts...


----------



## FlatlanderSJ (Oct 4, 2007)

Seb--Morin said:


> Humm i've looked briefly but i don't think the VIN on the fenders (maybe under side) but what i would like to find is the "not so obvious'' spots on the frame...
> 
> It's a real nightmare, it's been a month calling back and fwd to figure out what i can do... I got the car back but since they can't find the real/original ''identity' of the car it's not a valid vehicule  It's not even about the swap or misc replacement parts...


The vin stamped on the rain tray should match the original Vin excluding the Z's. 
There should be a vin on the option sticker that is located on the trunk floor/fuel pump access panel. There's also vin stickers on the back side of the rear quarters near each taillight (inside hatch area.)


----------



## eavalos15 (Oct 9, 2011)

*Wiring Harness*

Has anyone rebuilt the harness? I want to do this to mine:screwy:


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

eavalos15 said:


> Has anyone rebuilt the harness? I want to do this to mine:screwy:


Be specific. What harness(s)? Small repair or overlay harness or complete rebuilt harness like engine harness or e-codes relay harness. In other words yes, but it's going to be time consuming and using different method of repairs, like heat shrink butt connectors, heat shrink solder connectors, or just soldering with shrink tube and clothe (friction) tape.


----------



## eavalos15 (Oct 9, 2011)

chc-rado said:


> Be specific. What harness(s)? Small repair or overlay harness or complete rebuilt harness like engine harness or e-codes relay harness. In other words yes, but it's going to be time consuming and using different method of repairs, like heat shrink butt connectors, heat shrink solder connectors, or just soldering with shrink tube and clothe (friction) tape.


engine harness. from end to end replacing every or at least bad cables. for time I will have all morning this 3 next weeks  and this rebuilt will take a lot of electrical problems away.


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

I am rebuilding my engine harness.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

eavalos15 said:


> engine harness. from end to end replacing every or at least bad cables. for time I will have all morning this 3 next weeks  and this rebuilt will take a lot of electrical problems away.


I think the best option is to pull your harness apart and clean it (lacquer thinner works well), analyze all the wires, clip the ends that are bad and crimp new jr amp terminals on the clipped ends then put cleaned plug ends back on :thumbup:


----------



## 2925 (Dec 11, 2007)

New question time: I am just about to be finished with school and will have some solid free time to tinker with the little bits that aren't working. I'm always at a bit of a loss when it comes to figuring out electrical issues so I'd like some ideas where to start. For reference the car is a 1990 G60.

The problems all occurred about the time when I shorted a wire under the dash, I THINK it was connected to VSS (it was brown and yellow maybe)? When I shorted the wire everything in the tail stopped working. The taillights had those crappy LED lights and bunch of the LED's died as well as a fuse for the reverse light I think, the spoiler stopped auto raising (still works with switch), the rear windsheild wiper went intermittent and now does not work, and the miles traveled, mpg, and avg speed no longer work on the MFA. I've checked fuses and they all seem to be fine, I haven't tackled any relays yet but I did try replacing the little sender unit on the back of the speedometer with one from a known working cluster but it changed nothing.

Any advice/pointers/help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Little info. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5683657-pcv-queation&p=77311156#post77311156


----------



## eavalos15 (Oct 9, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I think the best option is to pull your harness apart and clean it (lacquer thinner works well), analyze all the wires, clip the ends that are bad and crimp new jr amp terminals on the clipped ends then put cleaned plug ends back on :thumbup:


Got it. Is there a place where I could get new plugs?


----------



## eavalos15 (Oct 9, 2011)

http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/index.php/cPath/109_136/sort/5a/page/1

found it!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

eavalos15 said:


> http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/index.php/cPath/109_136/sort/5a/page/1
> 
> found it!


That be the one, I wouldn't waste the coin on new plugs, they clean and hold up well. Definitely do the jr amp's tho, nice & new on some good ends with non-brittle sheathing, then when you put all the plugs on, invest in a tube of dielectric grease to protect your new investment :thumbup:

I will also recommend wrapping the harness in something good besides friction tape, it made a mess where hot, looked good in the beginning tho. Techflex is awesome and available in a variety of colors, but a tad pricey. I've just seen some coil like stuff I'm going to use on my boat, but the C gets the T


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> That be the one, I wouldn't waste the coin on new plugs, they clean and hold up well. Definitely do the jr amp's tho, nice & new on some good ends with non-brittle sheathing, then when you put all the plugs on, invest in a tube of dielectric grease to protect your new investment :thumbup:
> 
> I will also recommend wrapping the harness in something good besides friction tape, it made a mess where hot, looked good in the beginning tho. Techflex is awesome and available in a variety of colors, but a tad pricey. I've just seen some coil like stuff I'm going to use on my boat, but the C gets the T


Techflex is WAY cheap compared to DR-25.

I spent about 200 bucks on 100' rolls of techflex in 5 different sizes. That is crazy cheap considering 20' of 3/4" DR-25 is 200 bucks.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Techflex is WAY cheap compared to DR-25.
> 
> I spent about 200 bucks on 100' rolls of techflex in 5 different sizes. That is crazy cheap considering 20' of 3/4" DR-25 is 200 bucks.


Oh, no kidding, I found this stuff at my local hardware store on the cheap :thumbup:

Got some of that techflex left ova? 

Nice to see you back on the forums :beer:


----------



## VR6_Socal_Rado (Mar 26, 2012)

Was curious when you open the door and and you look down there is a rubber /plastic lining that's says corrado. whats the name of that piece? been online for few days can't find. Door runners I think they are called not sure. :screwy:

Super newbie


----------



## oneoldkid (Feb 17, 2004)

*No power steering...*

Going to look at a 92 VR6 on Saturday. I know that there is no air conditioning and no power steering. I understand that people have disconnected the A/C to increase power, we did it to my wife's '67 Mustang, but I have never heard about disconnecting power steering. Would someone disconnect poer steering to increase power? Supposedly the power steering stuff is still in the car but just not connected. Would it be possible to simply reconnect the power steering and be good to go?

If it all looks good it will be my first Corrado! I am very excited. Had a '75 Beetle, '96 Jetta and wife currently drives '00 Passat.

Thanks for any help I can get.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

VR6_Socal_Rado said:


> Was curious when you open the door and and you look down there is a rubber /plastic lining that's says corrado. whats the name of that piece? been online for few days can't find. Door runners I think they are called not sure. :screwy:
> 
> Super newbie


Door sill



oneoldkid said:


> Going to look at a 92 VR6 on Saturday. I know that there is no air conditioning and no power steering. I understand that people have disconnected the A/C to increase power, we did it to my wife's '67 Mustang, but I have never heard about disconnecting power steering. Would someone disconnect poer steering to increase power? Supposedly the power steering stuff is still in the car but just not connected. Would it be possible to simply reconnect the power steering and be good to go?
> 
> If it all looks good it will be my first Corrado! I am very excited. Had a '75 Beetle, '96 Jetta and wife currently drives '00 Passat.
> 
> Thanks for any help I can get.


Probably disconnected both due to failure, i.e. leaks


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

Quick question. Ok so I have hid's in headlights and fogs. Question is why do my fogs always stay on? I can't turn them off. Is it a bad switch?


----------



## Vdubspot (Dec 3, 2011)

*corrado starting trouble..*

so i had smoke coming from the ignition and diagnosed it as a faulty ignition switch. Anyways replaced it and to my surprise it still wouldnt start. Everything electrical would work but it would wouldnt quite turnover or crank at all which i find interesting because before the ignition switch was installed we tested it and that car cranked. Also the battery, water, and oil lights all came on the dash. The other two left but the battery button is the one that remains on. when attempting to start the car there is a noise coming from something under the hood which is nearly identical to a noise coming form the dash. Anyways is it possible that new switch was faulty or burned out trying to start the car or could this be a new problem altogher? any help would be appreciated. here are some pics.

Everything electrical seems to be working, Still oil, water, and battery light stay on and won't start.
Also noise coming form dash when trying to start









Same exact noise coming from under the hood.


















Again any advice or ideas would help, trying to get this on the road asap. thanks.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Oh, no kidding, I found this stuff at my local hardware store on the cheap :thumbup:
> 
> Got some of that techflex left ova?
> 
> Nice to see you back on the forums :beer:


I do have some left over, but I am going to be using it on a project here soon.

I split the cost of it with a friend who needed some. So we each ended up with 50'. Worked out great. I will send you a PM to the place that I get it from.

I would say it is nice to be back on here but some of the threads recently are terribad. :banghead::banghead:. Good talking to you clowns again though :beer:


----------



## deemee (Aug 7, 2011)

After I installed my car radio my Dome lights stopped working.. how do I solve this?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Vdubspot said:


> so i had smoke coming from the ignition and diagnosed it as a faulty ignition switch. Anyways replaced it and to my surprise it still wouldnt start. Everything electrical would work but it would wouldnt quite turnover or crank at all which i find interesting because before the ignition switch was installed we tested it and that car cranked. Also the battery, water, and oil lights all came on the dash. The other two left but the battery button is the one that remains on. when attempting to start the car there is a noise coming from something under the hood which is nearly identical to a noise coming form the dash. Anyways is it possible that new switch was faulty or burned out trying to start the car or could this be a new problem altogher? any help would be appreciated. here are some pics.
> 
> Everything electrical seems to be working, Still oil, water, and battery light stay on and won't start.
> Also noise coming form dash when trying to start
> ...


The noise you are hearing is most likely your ABS pump, you will hear it in both places. It is possible you have a short somewhere burning up ignition switches.



TheBurninator said:


> I do have some left over, but I am going to be using it on a project here soon.
> 
> I split the cost of it with a friend who needed some. So we each ended up with 50'. Worked out great. I will send you a PM to the place that I get it from.
> 
> I would say it is nice to be back on here but some of the threads recently are terribad. :banghead::banghead:. Good talking to you clowns again though :beer:


Nice on the t-flex, I still have some, but won't be ready to sheath until everything is in my bay 

:laugh:.............:beer:



deemee said:


> After I installed my car radio my Dome lights stopped working.. how do I solve this?


Plug it back in? :screwy:

Need a tad more info there 

Trace wires with a Bentley, when in doubt give your Bentley a shout eace:


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

Tk2g60 said:


> Quick question. Ok so I have hid's in headlights and fogs. Question is why do my fogs always stay on? I can't turn them off. Is it a bad switch?


Sr. Karmann don't forget about me :laugh:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Tk2g60 said:


> Sr. Karmann don't forget about me :laugh:


:laugh:

That could be any number of things, trace it back from the fog or try a new fog switch. You could make a little jumper wire or a few to isolate the switch being faulty


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

Yeah my money is on the switch. Well that's what I've been thinking anyways. Maybe this lil clue will help give a clue. My fogs also stay on when I switch to high beam:sly: thanks for the advice:beer:


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Can anyone tell me where to get replacement 280mm (11") rear brake rotors???? I'm only seeing them sold as a whole kit! Wtf did they come stock on any particular car?

And... Can anyone get me the part number off of an OBD1 Vr6 block?


----------



## Vdubspot (Dec 3, 2011)

*ignition switch short, abs pump*



> The noise you are hearing is most likely your ABS pump, you will hear it in both places. It is possible you have a short somewhere burning up ignition switches.


would that short most likely be on the end closer to the pump or the ignition. and any advice on how to go about finding/fixing it? thanks


----------



## drkreign (Sep 2, 2005)

Does anyone know what HP the G60 and VR6 axles are rated for?


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

HavokRuels said:


> Can anyone tell me where to get replacement 280mm (11") rear brake rotors???? I'm only seeing them sold as a whole kit! Wtf did they come stock on any particular car?
> 
> And... Can anyone get me the part number off of an OBD1 Vr6 block?


ok just found out the eurospec 280mm rotor cannot be purchased seperately and its custom made 

any other OE options? I can custom make a caliper carrier adapter if i can find a larger rear brake rotor. ??????


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> ok just found out the eurospec 280mm rotor cannot be purchased seperately and its custom made
> 
> any other OE options? I can custom make a caliper carrier adapter if i can find a larger rear brake rotor. ??????


There are adapters for Rear Carriers to run the Stock Front 11" (280MM) Rotors.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

drkreign said:


> Does anyone know what HP the G60 and VR6 axles are rated for?


Stock is all they are "Rated For" If Running a Diff (Pelequin, Quaife) With no other mods you can break joints. 

DSS or RAXLES if you are concerned.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

DUBZAK said:


> There are adapters for Rear Carriers to run the Stock Front 11" (280MM) Rotors.


Damn Will, how do fronts attach to the rear and..... any chance you can get me the part number off your block??? Zeb is trying to find me a brand new cylinder block but we cant find a part number 

Oh an PM me your cell so I can bug the **** out of you during the day when I need help


----------



## 91vwg60 (Feb 18, 2009)

This may sound dumb but what if any is the difference between vr fenders and g60s? They look the same to me :screwy:


----------



## 91vwg60 (Feb 18, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> There are adapters for Rear Carriers to run the Stock Front 11" (280MM) Rotors.


 This sounds awesome. Please let me know where i can get these at. I have an extra ser of calipers and rotors for the front. So if it's just a matter off getting new carriers I'll do it.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

91vwg60 said:


> This sounds awesome. Please let me know where i can get these at. I have an extra ser of calipers and rotors for the front. So if it's just a matter off getting new carriers I'll do it.


It's a little bit more involved. I just learned that you have to machine down stock rear rotors to adapt part of it to front rotors.

Best bet is the Ecs kit which has everything you need for 350


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

91vwg60 said:


> This may sound dumb but what if any is the difference between vr fenders and g60s? They look the same to me :screwy:


VR fenders are wider at the wheel arch, someone just told me 10mm per side, haven't confirmed figure tho


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> VR fenders are wider at the wheel arch, someone just told me 10mm per side, haven't confirmed figure tho


I always thought it was 5mm at the flare but I haven't confirmed either lol


----------



## kainoasun (Jan 27, 2005)

*Funny questions..*

Hey im not sure if anyone will actually learn anything from my post here, but this topic reminded me of some funny a$$ questions I've heard a few times from car owners. Hopefully not too far off topic and maybe some of y'all will crack up like I did.

I know I can't be the only car guy to have heard stuff like this (and waaaaay dumber things) from other car owners, but these three I remember well.

Stuff like this;

1) "Is it of crucial importance to use the correct (OEM???) type, weight and viscocity bumper fluid!!???"

Anyone hear that before?

Or this gem,

2) "would you mind checking my muffler bearings? They're making a weird sound!"""

This is the best one yet; 

3) In 1987 a mk1 Jetta is towed in to our shop. Engine is frozen solid with 88,000 miles on odometer. Elder lady bought it off showroom floor with 17 miles on the odo. and it was her daily driver ever since. 

When asked what's wrong she said "It just stopped abruptly and no one seems to know why" So my pops asks when her last oil change was...

And fellas,...let me just say there is just no way to describe with words, the sad and dumbfounded look on this poor little ladies face when she said "I never knew it needed its oil changed!!" 

I felt bad for her but i was also a real jacka$$ at that age. Not sure exactly why but that poor lady's comment, and look on her face created this insanely powerful urged to spit my Pepsi out all over her and run away laughing like a maniac!! It was un-freekin-bearable!!!?..but I handled. You know. it was business. Just cant spit Pepsi all over old ladies for some reason...haha

Actually here's something cool relating to the last story;

Although a pothole could've been filled with what "oil" was left in that engine, all it needed was cylinder honing, seals and gaskets, bearings, and standard bore rings. Basic rebuild and good to go. That is amazing German metalurgy in my opinion.

Fo Real though, this thread is this shizzzzz boys.... Enough outa me, Aloha JK47


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Well I've always busted newb's at the parts store with the muffler bearings joke and looking for a radiator for 1968 beetle. It's funny to see them take it seriously and try searching. Lol


----------



## FlatlanderSJ (Oct 4, 2007)

Tk2g60 said:


> Yeah my money is on the switch. Well that's what I've been thinking anyways. Maybe this lil clue will help give a clue. My fogs also stay on when I switch to high beam:sly: thanks for the advice:beer:


Check to make sure they're not actually pugged into the sidemarkers.


----------



## eyepoppet (May 2, 2011)

If I don't have a check engine light on a G60 does the yellow wire from the digi (i think its 3 or 4 pin) harness not get used?


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

eyepoppet said:


> If I don't have a check engine light on a G60 does the yellow wire from the digi (i think its 3 or 4 pin) harness not get used?


There is a CEL port inside your car so yes check engine light is connected to the digi. Cel port is located underneath the shift boot cover. 

Hopefully I answered in the manner in which it looks like your asking


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## ml1986 (Apr 27, 2012)

Any tips on getting the pins of the gauge cluster, im afraid to break em if I pull too hard. (g60)


----------



## FlatlanderSJ (Oct 4, 2007)

ml1986 said:


> Any tips on getting the pins of the gauge cluster, im afraid to break em if I pull too hard. (g60)


assuming your talking about the gauge faces. grab a piece of wood and drill a small hole for the pin to sit in and use a small awl/center punch and hammer them out from the back.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

FlatlanderSJ said:


> assuming your talking about the gauge faces. grab a piece of wood and drill a small hole for the pin to sit in and use a small awl/center punch and hammer them out from the back.


Wow excessive. :screwy::laugh: The Pins are BARELY in the faces. I broke one pulling too hard but seriously, a pair of Plyers and a little wiggle and tug on the pin, it will come out. Use a small circular motion to kind of wallow them out.


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

They have a tool for it. Needle puller. There plastic and kind of look like tweesers. My brother has one. They work well and you wont break the needle with this tool :thumbup:


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Who was it that tucked there headlight relays in the frame rail? I wanna see those pics again.


----------



## tod914 (Dec 6, 2011)

*Definitive maintence list for a noob?*

Had a 90 G60 22 years ago. Loved it. All 140,000 miles of it before I had to sell it due to relocating. I just purchased a 92 vr6 in silver after a long abscents of no Corrado! One owner car with 42,000 miles. Can't wait to get it back to NJ. I been through a bunch of threads, but haven't seen a basic maintence list. Could someone point my nose in the right direction? Possibly suggest an excellent shop in the Northern NJ area. I know of Tyrol in LI, but that's abit of a hassle to get to. Suggestion for an online parts shop who is very familiar with these cars would be great too.

My intent is to leave the car as stock as possible. Some smart upgrades I don't mind. The po maintained the car, but kept no records. Shop recently closed that worked on it, but said she was very meticuous about it's upkeep. So, with that said... I plan on ordering the Bentley as well.

1. Coolant system suggestions for; coolant G12?, hoses, thermostat, etc.
2. Gear/Transmission oil suggestion
3. Oil type & filter for engine
4. Air filter
5. Timing chain is ok to about 75,000 I understand? That would be the time to do the head gasket update?
6. Brake lines & fluid
7. fuel lines & filter

Thanks guys appreciate the help.


----------



## tod914 (Dec 6, 2011)

Just read through the FAQ list.. wow, information overload! So that narrows it down to reccomended shop in the NNJ area, and an online vendor.. seems to be quite a few of them as well. Only indepth oil discussion I seen was for the R34. Correct to assume that oil data/debate works for the VR6 as well? Thanks.


----------



## PURPLExCORRADO (May 26, 2010)

*G60 problems*

ok, i have read just about every thread on timing the g60 and many links to other sites.
i cant seem to figure out why when i set the timing to 6 degrees btdc the car hardly runs and is definately wrong.

i am not sure if there has to be intervals between the 3 revs over 2500 k or if it has to go below 1,000 between every rev to get the ecu stop adjusting timing.

while driving the car it feels like it delays on power and under light throttle bucks or temporarily cuts out

i have been messing with this for a week.
i can put the rotor and marks where they look like in the pictures in the pictures but i want it to be timed properly as i just dumped a bunch of money into this car and do not want to melt a piston.

this is my second g60, it is a 1990 with exhaust, 68mm pulley, bored (not sure how much as previous owner had it done), forged pistons, 268 techtonics cam, isv reroute, the injectors are different than my 92 g60 but they are still green tops, techtonics stage 4 chip, 172 degree thermostat and fan switch, stage 4 supercharger and rsr outlet, k&n cone filter and bbm intake tube,solid front mount, windage tray, bosch w6dpo plugs and neuspeed wires, i will get the compression numbers again but they were all within 1 psi range of each other, boost,oil temp,oil press gauges, gets about 10 lbs of boost until about 5800 rpm when it jumps to 16 psi,22 lbs of vacuum , oil psi is about 15-20 at idle and goes up to 60-80, oil temp ranges from 190-220, coolant is usually in the upper 160's, mobil 1 15-50 oil, canister was removed and all lines blocked off,3.5 bar fpr, the whole motor was rebuilt with reciepts for all of it from previous owner.

i have changed the isv valve,boost valve,ecu,ecu hose,all other vacuum lines, battery,steering columb, flywheel and cam, chip, put old exhaust manifold and cat on car(had header that was cracked), o2 sensor

the car ran fine before i changed the exhaust and cam/flywheel(eurosport flywheel had no timing marks)
the timing belt is correct
the engine was cutting out if i gave it any more gas than was nessacary to move the car until i filled the tank( it had over a quarter tank of gas before i filled it)

thanks for any help:banghead:


----------



## Gacked (May 15, 2012)

I have an 04 jetta and my steering wheel locked and my key wouldn't turn. 2 friends and I tried everything. I was able to get the steering wheel unlocked and pulled out the steering lock and lock cylinder the key will still not turn. Any ideas of what needs to be replaced or fixed?


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Gacked said:


> I have an 04 jetta and my steering wheel locked and my key wouldn't turn. 2 friends and I tried everything. I was able to get the steering wheel unlocked and pulled out the steering lock and lock cylinder the key will still not turn. Any ideas of what needs to be replaced or fixed?


The steering wheel lock is in the Column. But this also isn't the Mkiv forums.


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

g60301 said:


> Who was it that tucked there headlight relays in the frame rail? I wanna see those pics again.


I know for fact dpgreek G60 project. Also check dogger Yellow nugget thread.


----------



## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

Super charger just blew up! Top of the case cracked with missing pieces. I'm stranded right now and was wondering what else runs off that belt? Can I cut it and drive home?


----------



## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

Never mind. Saw the alternator runs on that belt. Anyone know what belt I can run to bypass the SC?


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

twoteks said:


> Super charger just blew up! Top of the case cracked with missing pieces. I'm stranded right now and was wondering what else runs off that belt? Can I cut it and drive home?


Pics!!


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## STEALTHCORRADO (Oct 14, 2005)

so i just traded my mk2 jetta for a 92 slc and the idle sits at 1500-1800 so i cleaned the isv and nothing changed, when i unplugged it still not much of a change. the things i did to it was clean mass air,isv,replaced air filter, check for bad vacume lines replaced if ness,


----------



## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

g60301 said:


> Pics!!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

twoteks said:


>


Not to be a douche, but if you had changed your cog belt you could have most likely avoided this :banghead:


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Wow! I've seen other blow gladers and it was blown in the same exact place!


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

I am looking for pics or help with the single wire junctions on the side of the fuse box. So far I know these have wires for coolant gauge, fuel gauge and power windows. I mainly need help with the green and black connectors. When this was all taken apart I remember some of the greens were mixed with the blacks. When I was putting it all back together I went off a pic from a 93 and all the like color connectors were grouped. As of right now my power windows and tach do not work. I traced the black power window wire to a black connecter switched it with a green one and the windows worked..... But, i lost fuel gauge, coolant gauge and the car ran like ****. Switched it back and everything returned to normal and the windows still dont work. My car is a 92 SLC. Thanks:beer:


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

I'm gonna be working on my cooling system on my 93 vr, I'm wondering what kind of mixture you fellows use with G12. Just a 50/50 mix? And the cooling system holds 2.5 gallons total, correct?


----------



## skaterazn (Jan 9, 2007)

1956dub said:


> I'm gonna be working on my cooling system on my 93 vr, I'm wondering what kind of mixture you fellows use with G12. Just a 50/50 mix? And the cooling system holds 2.5 gallons total, correct?


50/50 Mine was under 2 gallons


----------



## Gaspo2k (Mar 27, 2012)

has anyone tried water wetter? i heard that u r supposed to use on 15% coolant and the rest water and water wetter for better cooling..


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Gaspo2k said:


> has anyone tried water wetter? i heard that u r supposed to use on 15% coolant and the rest water and water wetter for better cooling..


Just use factory g12+ coolant with distilled water. Water wetter is a waste of money.


----------



## DaddyMassacre (Jul 29, 2010)

*G60 Question*

OK i got a question and hope to get some answers for its my beater and i need to know asap


first im driving a 1990 G60 corrado completely stock no moding that im aware of yet

what temps do your G60 run at? I notice recently after a did a full tune up to my ride that my oil temp read on my MFA fluctuates and gets pretty dam high its been running anywhere from 208 to 220 degress F, my car normally use to only reach 200 on a hot day... any ideas of what it could be i been noticing a small leak of oil and the smell of burning oil but i cant seem to be able to find where its coming from


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

1956dub said:


> I'm gonna be working on my cooling system on my 93 vr, I'm wondering what kind of mixture you fellows use with G12. Just a 50/50 mix? And the cooling system holds 2.5 gallons total, correct?


Pentofrost Coolant, (equivelent to g12) and it's already pre-mixed. The bottles are about 1/2 gallon and retail for anywhere from 12-20 bucks each. If you had to add water, go to your local pharmacy, head to the baby isle and buy distilled water. (3.00 a gallon)


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

TheBurninator said:


> Just use factory g12+ coolant with distilled water. Water wetter is a waste of money.


I should have scrolled down further, and I would have just X2 this


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

DaddyMassacre said:


> OK i got a question and hope to get some answers for its my beater and i need to know asap
> 
> 
> first im driving a 1990 G60 corrado completely stock no moding that im aware of yet
> ...


Seems to be right on with the temp. These cars run pretty hot.


----------



## dannyace (Nov 9, 2000)

*15x8 ET20 fitment on VR?*

Another wheel fitment question 

Yes, I searched via vortex and Google, including the Horoscope thread, but couldn't find much on this specific fitment, so I bow to the experts and wheel gods:

Looking to possibly fit 15x8 ET20 wheels on a 93 VR, currently with Bilsteins/H&R sport (not very low), and fenders are not rolled.

I'm thinking they should fit, but may want to roll fenders to be safe? I'm also not looking for too much poke, if you can comment on that would be great. Also, maybe what tire size would be ideal.
Future suspension plans include Koni Coils, but probably not until next Fall.


----------



## DaddyMassacre (Jul 29, 2010)

well according to the bently the oil temp should not surpass 205F so i mean my car is running hotter that it suppose to be

anyone have any ideas maybe lead me where i should start looking at first im quite clueless for this is the first time this ever happens to me


----------



## Heremans (May 22, 2012)

Hi guys,

from what I've heard in the US you've got 'bolt-on' turbo kits for sale in a package for 1.8 16v engines. What's the price for these beauties and would it be easy to ship one to Belgium?

grtz Nick


----------



## crisvr6 (Jun 14, 2007)

brake and abs help / info needed

i was the second time by the TÜV (mot) and the rado failed again.. 
that tüv inspector guy, says the brake pedal flunks (falls trough) dont know what he means exactly.. 
the brake pads are new, the discs are still good in the front and in the back they are new, it has also new brake fluid.. both mechanics from my garage checked it all and its all good, also on the brake dynamometer its all ok and the car still failed.. i feel not difference with the brakes its still the same like the last 5 and a half years. 
when i push the brake pedal hard, then it has like 3cm space between floor and pedal.. 

i know when i start the car the abs light and handbreak (e-break) lights are on for a few seconds, but my abs light is not working maybe the bulb. but the handbreak light is on for a few sec. 
*
so does the abs light have influence to the break pedal ?*

the next thing i have to do, is to go to vw and they check it again all and when all is still good i get a confirmation that its normal and ok and pass the tüv.. or when not bring it on the junkyard


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Got mk4 rear calipers for free. I don't have the lines, junkyard mk4 lines with the banjo fitting? I'm not paying 100 bucks for new lines right now.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

g60301 said:


> Got mk4 rear calipers for free. I don't have the lines, junkyard mk4 lines with the banjo fitting? I'm not paying 100 bucks for new lines right now.


Hmmm I thought the conversion lines were 50.00 bucks at ECS? Also, mk4 ebrake cables will be needed. :thumbup:


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

crisvr6 said:


> brake and abs help / info needed
> 
> i was the second time by the TÜV (mot) and the rado failed again..
> that tüv inspector guy, says the brake pedal flunks (falls trough) dont know what he means exactly..
> ...


Wow tough inspection laws. I've never heard of an abs issue causing a soft pedal, unless there is fluid leaking. Now with that in mind, how can they gauge pedal throw? Each manufacture's pedal throw is different. Some brake instantly and some go to the floor, it's normal. Did you ask them what they thought it could be? Bet they wouldn't have an answer because it's bull****.


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

DaddyMassacre said:


> well according to the bently the oil temp should not surpass 205F so i mean my car is running hotter that it suppose to be
> 
> anyone have any ideas maybe lead me where i should start looking at first im quite clueless for this is the first time this ever happens to me


Oil cooler flow issues, install aftermarket cooler.
Oil flow issues, causing it to get hotter.

I am assuming you used an external oil temp gauge?


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

dannyace said:


> Another wheel fitment question
> 
> Yes, I searched via vortex and Google, including the Horoscope thread, but couldn't find much on this specific fitment, so I bow to the experts and wheel gods:
> 
> ...


Best thing to do is mock up one of the wheels with no tire if you have a chance or search for an offsett calculator and base your results off of factory offset.


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Heremans said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> from what I've heard in the US you've got 'bolt-on' turbo kits for sale in a package for 1.8 16v engines. What's the price for these beauties and would it be easy to ship one to Belgium?
> 
> grtz Nick


http://www.kineticmotorsport.com/pr...T_16V_GOLF_JETTA_STAGE1_TURBO_KIT-383-95.html

Not sure about shipping but hit them up and ask or ask these guys too. Www.bahnbrenner.com


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

HavokRuels said:


> Hmmm I thought the conversion lines were 50.00 bucks at ECS? Also, mk4 ebrake cables will be needed. :thumbup:
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


Well I'm strapped for cash right now to be spending on the c. My friend works at the local junkyard and they always have mk4 s laying around. I know there used lines but my question is can I just take the lines off a mk4. And use them? Didn't know about the ebrake cable ill grab that too. So mk4 Lines straight off the mk4 on my corrado, yay or nae


----------



## crisvr6 (Jun 14, 2007)

HavokRuels said:


> Wow tough inspection laws. I've never heard of an abs issue causing a soft pedal, unless there is fluid leaking. Now with that in mind, how can they gauge pedal throw? Each manufacture's pedal throw is different. Some brake instantly and some go to the floor, it's normal. Did you ask them what they thought it could be? Bet they wouldn't have an answer because it's bull****.
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


those tüv guys they have no idea what or were the problem is, its not leaking. they dont know the corrado or have not much experience with it or so they thing its not normal also no tüv..
i ask one of those guys later today.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

g60301 said:


> Well I'm strapped for cash right now to be spending on the c. My friend works at the local junkyard and they always have mk4 s laying around. I know there used lines but my question is can I just take the lines off a mk4. And use them? Didn't know about the ebrake cable ill grab that too. So mk4 Lines straight off the mk4 on my corrado, yay or nae


Unfortunately not directly but there is a free solution. Take the rubber lines from the mk4 and also clip the fittings off of the hard line. Cut your corrado hard line and re-flare the mk4 fitting on. Presto! 


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

crisvr6 said:


> those tüv guys they have no idea what or were the problem is, its not leaking. they dont know the corrado or have not much experience with it or so they thing its not normal also no tüv..
> i ask one of those guys later today.


Can you take it to another station? Best bet like you said is to get clean bill of health from vw 


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## crisvr6 (Jun 14, 2007)

the next is in a different canton (state), dont know if it would work..


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

crisvr6 said:


> or when not bring it on the junkyard


:laugh:

Now Chris 

Seriously though, it seems as if they are yanking your chain, can you take it in to another inspector? What year is your car? Can you convert it to non-ABS? Possible on the ABS light being a bad bulb, but could be the ABS unit or computer, I would test the light first.


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## TylerInHiFi (Jul 21, 2009)

ABS question...

My ABS light has been on since I bought the car. I didn't bother to fix it because it's a Corrado and the ABS doesn't work on any of them. Lately the ABS has been giving feedback to the brake pedal at very low pressure braking and only intermittently. This started around the same time I started to hear the unmistakable sound of a shot wheel bearing. Could they be related? How common is weird ABS resistance? I've never owned a car with ABS, so I honestly don't even know what's normal. And I disconnected the ABS light, so I have no idea if it's still on or not. I'd have to find it to test I suppose...

EDIT: 94 VR6


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## crisvr6 (Jun 14, 2007)

Sr. Karmann said:


> :laugh:
> 
> Now Chris
> 
> Seriously though, it seems as if they are yanking your chain, can you take it in to another inspector? What year is your car? Can you convert it to non-ABS? Possible on the ABS light being a bad bulb, but could be the ABS unit or computer, I would test the light first.


1993 vr6 almost 20years old :laugh:

those inspectors are stupid, what they dont know = is not ok.. 
have to make a call and ask if its possible.. and i go now to visit that guy  
he is bullying my car :thumbdown:


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

crisvr6 said:


> i go now to visit that guy
> he is bullying my car :thumbdown:



Do you need me to fly over there and hand out beatdowns? 

On a serious note, like I said before, how do you gauge pedal throw on a broad scale? Are the brake pads too low? That would cause them to go down further.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

crisvr6 said:


> 1993 vr6 almost 20years old :laugh:
> 
> those inspectors are stupid, what they dont know = is not ok..
> have to make a call and ask if its possible.. and i go now to visit that guy
> he is bullying my car :thumbdown:


Tell him you will p-chop his ass if he doesn't pass it :sly:..........:laugh:

Can you delete the ABS entirely?


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Can you delete the ABS entirely?


I don't think that's an option (unless he knows some people from the TUV :laugh...

Atleast around here, TUV (mot) inspections are very strict (I'm guessing the same applies to most countries in Europe) - if you car came equipped with ABS originally you can not delete it. 

For example, my Corrado came without catalytic (yes, we did get those here ) and they can't force me to put one no matter how much I polute the enviroment  If it came with one originally then I wouldn't be allowed to delete it...


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> I don't think that's an option (unless he knows some people from the TUV :laugh...
> 
> Atleast around here, TUV (mot) inspections are very strict (I'm guessing the same applies to most countries in Europe) - if you car came equipped with ABS originally you can not delete it.
> 
> For example, my Corrado came without catalytic (yes, we did get those here ) and they can't force me to put one no matter how much I polute the enviroment  If it came with one originally then I wouldn't be allowed to delete it...


Time to register in the US, not Cali :laugh:

Was reading thru a Dupont Registry earlier today and there was a lawyer advertising registering cars in Montana to save sales tax and BS inspections.


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## crisvr6 (Jun 14, 2007)

HavokRuels said:


> Do you need me to fly over there and hand out beatdowns?
> 
> On a serious note, like I said before, how do you gauge pedal throw on a broad scale? Are the brake pads too low? That would cause them to go down further.


brake pads are new..
its normal and also the mechanic says its all good.. 
was there today that super inspector was certainly not there, the other one said i have to show it again in a few days, but first i need from vw the proof that all is ok and then it should be ok.. 

and i can change the mot station only before i go to the mot, now i have starte here and have to finish at the same place..


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

crisvr6 said:


> brake pads are new..
> its normal and also the mechanic says its all good..
> was there today that super inspector was certainly not there, the other one said i have to show it again in a few days, but first i need from vw the proof that all is ok and then it should be ok..
> 
> and i can change the mot station only before i go to the mot, now i have starte here and have to finish at the same place..


There's your answer, vw certification and be done with it. 


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## crisvr6 (Jun 14, 2007)

ya, and when not ? or how much for this paper ?


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## tonyg60 (Aug 21, 2010)

Hello I have a 1990 g60. I have this knocking sound which I could feel on the serpentine belt tensioner(which I'm guessing is that small shock). Not sure if it is that but that seems like the problem. Does anyone know where I could buy a new one or is there a fix to this. 

Thanks for the help :thumbup:


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

tonyg60 said:


> Hello I have a 1990 g60. I have this knocking sound which I could feel on the serpentine belt tensioner(which I'm guessing is that small shock). Not sure if it is that but that seems like the problem. Does anyone know where I could buy a new one or is there a fix to this.
> 
> Thanks for the help :thumbup:


 You can buy the oem tensioner from the dealership (that's where I bought mine 2 years ago - expensive )  

Either that or you can buy aftermarket solid adj. tensioners. For example: http://www.bar-tek-tuning.com/cgi-b...60109&file=7&gesamt_zeilen=0Tsuche--tensioner 

_Haven't tried any of those personally_ 

Keep in mind that its *mostly* the bushings that go bad on the tensioners. They sell solid replacement bushings ( http://epmtuned.com/id274.html ) since I don't think you can buy oem ones individually from the dealership (but I could be wrong)


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## CTVWNewb (Apr 8, 2012)

Hi, I need to change a solenoid in my 2004 jetta gls 1.8t. Where can I fin the sensor? Also, I need to put new transmission fluid, anyone know where to buy the correct fluid for my vehicle?


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

1st wrong section
2nd what solenoid????
3rd contact your dealer for fluid specifications but my guess would be 90w gear oil if it's a 5spd


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## IMWALKIN (Mar 28, 2002)

I need help isolating a noise.. 90 G60, what I thought was a bad wheel bearing...replaced bearing, right side...noise is still there...but seems to be more middle/ left on the transmission side...axles are in good shape as well as ball joints and surrounding items. the noise happens all the time except when not in load, cornering right... not too farmiliar with tranny work so I was wondering what else I can check...could it be an input bearing if it makes the noise while coasting? I hope its just my other wheel bearing and the noise is traveling..I plan on doing my other wheel bearing for good measure tomm and was looking to see what else I could look for... thanks guys/gals have a good Holiday!:beer:


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Bro it's the axles. They may look good but it's definitely the axles if it's happening under load only.

Have a great weekend everyone!


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## IMWALKIN (Mar 28, 2002)

thanks mike...theyre both less than a year old.... thats why I was leaning more towards the other wheel bearing... would it have anything to do with the tranny if it still makes the noise while coasting?


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Not really, remember the axles are spinning at the same speed as the wheels regardless of in gear or not. And usually if you get any noise or vibration whilst under load, it's usually the axles. 


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## defjam (Apr 3, 2012)

Can you tell me, how do I remove the front panel in corrado? 
I mean that big panel with heating control, radio etc. 
I want to do some harmony there, bc I can't even take out the radio - I guess wires are to blame. 
Second question: the light behind heating control doesn't work, how can I change the light bulb? 
And last qestion so far , how can I remove the stash from the passenger side?


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

There is a screw behind the cluster surround, it the back of the bottom cubby, two behind the top vents and behind the ashtray. Might be a couple more. Pull the vents out by hand and slide out the ashtray.


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## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

Car is a 1990 Corrado with a 16v 2.0 running digi1. My oil buzzer kept going off VERY randomly, so I put an mechanical oil pressure gauge in. Seems to hover around 80psi nearly all the time. 

The oil buzzer has gone off at 80psi, 90psi, below and above 2200 rpm (cutoff between the low pressure switch and the high pressure switch), when the car is cold, when the car is hot. I found no correlation. 

Any ideas what the problem is? Is 80-100psi normal for a stockish 16v?


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## dannyace (Nov 9, 2000)

HavokRuels said:


> Best thing to do is mock up one of the wheels with no tire if you have a chance or search for an offsett calculator and base your results off of factory offset.
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


 Would love to mock up a wheel but don't have the means. I'm now leaning towards a set of 16X7.5 modern lines for the SLC. What would the ideal ET be? Not trying to poke, rub or run spacers.  Will prob have to roll fenders but need to know which ET works without rubbing the suspension. I'm thinking something around 25-35 ET? 

Thoughts?


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

symptoms of a bad radiator? 

92 slc - get a whiff of coolant when I park the car. No discernible leaks as the level in the coolant bottle stays the same. I took a look at the radiator and saw coolant sitting on some of the fins. I can see coolant temp creep up to 220 when I'm in stop and go traffic, but goes back down to midway on the gauge when at freeway speeds. 

The whole coolant system is brand new save for the radiator. Fan speeds kick on when they should. Noticed more of a temp change when I switched to the mkiv metal HG (now see oil temps int the 240-250 range when driving over 15 mins at 80 mph - and that is when coolant temps got higher)


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

dannyace said:


> Would love to mock up a wheel but don't have the means. I'm now leaning towards a set of 16X7.5 modern lines for the SLC. What would the ideal ET be? Not trying to poke, rub or run spacers.  Will prob have to roll fenders but need to know which ET works without rubbing the suspension. I'm thinking something around 25-35 ET?
> 
> Thoughts?


 That's a good range to be in. My Abt's are 7.5 with an et30 which is perfect for no rub or no pulled fenders.





valet said:


> symptoms of a bad radiator?
> 
> 92 slc - get a whiff of coolant when I park the car. No discernible leaks as the level in the coolant bottle stays the same. I took a look at the radiator and saw coolant sitting on some of the fins. I can see coolant temp creep up to 220 when I'm in stop and go traffic, but goes back down to midway on the gauge when at freeway speeds.
> 
> The whole coolant system is brand new save for the radiator. Fan speeds kick on when they should. Noticed more of a temp change when I switched to the mkiv metal HG (now see oil temps int the 240-250 range when driving over 15 mins at 80 mph - and that is when coolant temps got higher)


 Well if there is coolant on the radiator then yep time for a new one. Any chance to pressure test it to be 100% certain?

Oil temps rising at the same time lead me to believe that the hotter than normal coolant passing through the oil cooler is causing the higher oil temps.


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## TylerInHiFi (Jul 21, 2009)

TylerInHiFi said:


> ABS question...
> 
> My ABS light has been on since I bought the car. I didn't bother to fix it because it's a Corrado and the ABS doesn't work on any of them. Lately the ABS has been giving feedback to the brake pedal at very low pressure braking and only intermittently. This started around the same time I started to hear the unmistakable sound of a shot wheel bearing. Could they be related? How common is weird ABS resistance? I've never owned a car with ABS, so I honestly don't even know what's normal. And I disconnected the ABS light, so I have no idea if it's still on or not. I'd have to find it to test I suppose...
> 
> EDIT: 94 VR6


 Anybody?


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

TylerInHiFi said:


> Anybody?


 On early models like G60 with key on-engine off. It will flash a code. Like 4 flashes pause then an other etc flashes pause 4 time. Like 4 flash would be number. 4111. Then can look it up in bentley book, if don't have one, get one. :thumbup: but if newer model like yours, it has rapid data transfer. You need 155x or vag-com with the black-white adapter to scan it for faults. That where have to start. If you don't have the basic scan tool with right connector, take to shop so get better diag what triggering abs system. It could be dirty or damages abs speed sensor, to wire issue, or faulty pressure sensor or pump,etc.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

It can be the control module, bad abs sensor or cracked tone ring on one of the axles. Basically the control module is getting fooled into activating the abs system.

Best bet, tackle the abs control module. Send it out for a rebuild, inspect all sensors for damage or debris on magnets and check tone rings for hairline crack.




Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

dannyace said:


> Would love to mock up a wheel but don't have the means. I'm now leaning towards a set of 16X7.5 modern lines for the SLC. What would the ideal ET be? Not trying to poke, rub or run spacers.  Will prob have to roll fenders but need to know which ET works without rubbing the suspension. I'm thinking something around 25-35 ET?
> 
> Thoughts?


 et20 ftmfw


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## Yahoo503 (Mar 18, 2012)

hey, i was wondering in theory how much would a r32 drivetrain swap cost/how much time would it take?


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Thousands and lots of custom fabrication and custom parts


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

HavokRuels said:


> Well if there is coolant on the radiator then yep time for a new one. Any chance to pressure test it to be 100% certain?
> 
> Oil temps rising at the same time lead me to believe that the hotter than normal coolant passing through the oil cooler is causing the higher oil temps.
> 
> ...


 
picking up a new radiator tomorrow - We'll see what happens


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## Yahoo503 (Mar 18, 2012)

is there anyway to get a corrado to be awd or 4wd thats not a total pain


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## mk3vrdub6 (Nov 4, 2008)

Find a synchro rear...good luck

Sent from my LG-P925 using Tapatalk


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Yahoo503 said:


> is there anyway to get a corrado to be awd or 4wd thats not a total pain


 Passat synchro donor car. (available in Canada only)


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

Yahoo503 said:


> is there anyway to get a corrado to be awd or 4wd thats not a total pain


 Nope


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## Yahoo503 (Mar 18, 2012)

Worth a shot looking for one.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Yahoo503 said:


> Worth a shot looking for one.


 Hope you have a FAT wallet


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## Yahoo503 (Mar 18, 2012)

Correction looking for a part one HAHA, well we'll see how it goes.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Yahoo503 said:


> is there anyway to get a corrado to be awd or 4wd thats not a total pain





Yahoo503 said:


> Worth a shot looking for one.





Yahoo503 said:


> Correction looking for a part one HAHA, well we'll see how it goes.


 10 to 15K to do it right. If you aren't spending that, you are building an abomination of a hack job and it will never work right. :thumbup:


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## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

skaterhernandez4 said:


> Car is a 1990 Corrado with a 16v 2.0 running digi1. My oil buzzer kept going off VERY randomly, so I put an mechanical oil pressure gauge in. Seems to hover around 80psi nearly all the time.
> 
> The oil buzzer has gone off at 80psi, 90psi, below and above 2200 rpm (cutoff between the low pressure switch and the high pressure switch), when the car is cold, when the car is hot. I found no correlation.
> 
> Any ideas what the problem is? Is 80-100psi normal for a stockish 16v?


 bump


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## Yahoo503 (Mar 18, 2012)

Thats about what I had planned out. This is still in theory mode with me and a friend of mine.


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## TylerInHiFi (Jul 21, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> It can be the control module, bad abs sensor or cracked tone ring on one of the axles. Basically the control module is getting fooled into activating the abs system.
> 
> Best bet, tackle the abs control module. Send it out for a rebuild, inspect all sensors for damage or debris on magnets and check tone rings for hairline crack.
> 
> ...


 Thanks. I'm going to end up having to take it in to someone anyway as I can't get a reading from the OBD port. So it'll be the two things at once I suppose.


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## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Voted! Damn wrong thread!


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

skaterhernandez4 said:


> bump


 You might want to check the 2.0 technical forums, or google https://www.google.com/search?sugexp=chrome,mod=13&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=oil+pressure+vw+9a


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## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

My tail light,city light,fog light and side marker have been out for a while now. I'm pretty sure its grounded out somewhere because I put a new fuse in it and it blew right away. My question is, is there a specific place I should look (don't know if this happened to any of you before? ) and I know each side of the stated lights that are out have there own fuse (left side/right side) where is the ground located under the Hood for it? (In the rats nest of headlight etc wires)


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

g60301 said:


> My tail light,city light,fog light and side marker have been out for a while now. I'm pretty sure its grounded out somewhere because I put a new fuse in it and it blew right away. My question is, is there a specific place I should look (don't know if this happened to any of you before? ) and I know each side of the stated lights that are out have there own fuse (left side/right side) where is the ground located under the Hood for it? (In the rats nest of headlight etc wires)


 I'm not sure a bad ground causes a short? More like a constant and positive touching somewhere


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

g60301 said:


> My tail light,city light,fog light and side marker have been out for a while now. I'm pretty sure its grounded out somewhere because I put a new fuse in it and it blew right away. My question is, is there a specific place I should look (don't know if this happened to any of you before? ) and I know each side of the stated lights that are out have there own fuse (left side/right side) where is the ground located under the Hood for it? (In the rats nest of headlight etc wires)


 The grounds are in the harness, it spiders off everywhere from usually a central splice in the loom. I thought you were pulling apart all of the loom so you could organize your wiring? 



HavokRuels said:


> I'm not sure a bad ground causes a short? More like a constant and positive touching somewhere


 :thumbup:


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## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

Is the g60 starter compatible with any other cars?


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> 10 to 15K to do it right. If you aren't spending that, you are building an abomination of a hack job and it will never work right. :thumbup:


 That is still north of what I will do it for. Im looking at 5ish.


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## Dubnskate (Nov 19, 2011)

How to swap a 2.0 16v into a digi car ad convert it to digi? I know I need bbm fuel rail. Mabey fuel pressure reg. Can I keep all the wiring from the 8v? I'm trying to figure this out pm me answers thanks


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Dubnskate said:


> How to swap a 2.0 16v into a digi car ad convert it to digi? I know I need bbm fuel rail. Mabey fuel pressure reg. Can I keep all the wiring from the 8v? I'm trying to figure this out pm me answers thanks


You're on the right track for fueling, need injectors, harness and ECU. You will need to blend the harnesses together or convert everything. Check xtremevdub's build thread, "Time to give the old bucket some love", I think a lot of info is in there on how he did it and what he used. There is also valuable information found via google search and a2resource.com


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

JamesS said:


> That is still north of what I will do it for. Im looking at 5ish.


Then you are cutting Corners or obtained a swap for Cheap. 

1,500 For Stand Alone Haldex Controller
2,000 For Twin Disc (your set up might be less power and not required) 
2,000 For Axles 
Mounts for O2M
Syncro Swap Parts for Rear Suspension ????
Starter ???
Shifter ???
Body Panels Like Floor Pan, Side Pans, and other Rallye Parts....$xX

You tell me how you can get it done for so cheap and actually "Do It Right".


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## d-bot (Sep 6, 2004)

DUBZAK said:


> Then you are cutting Corners or obtained a swap for Cheap.
> 
> You tell me how you can get it done for so cheap and actually "Do It Right".


If not using OEM parts such as modifying your stock floor pan is "cutting corners" then we are all screwed. A person, with the right skill set can do this swap for a relatively low cost. The majority here buy parts and install them or pay someone to do it, due to lack of knowledge, skill, time, or any and all of the above. No disrespect to them, but it will just cost more. Yes some of the parts end up costing a good amount but if you wait for a good deal and know how to do the work, then it will cost a lot less than 10K, though I can see how it can get out of hand quite quickly if you want to go overboard with immediate "upgrades", unless you are considering motor modifications at the same time, which is quite different than "just a haldex swap".... run on sentence ftw!


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> Then you are cutting Corners or obtained a swap for Cheap.
> 
> 1,500 For Stand Alone Haldex Controller
> 2,000 For Twin Disc (your set up might be less power and not required)
> ...



So far mine is like this:

O2m, haldex dif, driveshafts, shiftbox, brakes : $1400
Euro retrofit shiftbox parts $90
Syncro rear axle $200
Clutchline $80
-$300 (for TT brakes when I sell them)
-$100 (selling syncro dif)
_________________________
$1370

So, a rough estimate of other parts

Standalone $1100 or $300 if I go cheap
Gas tank, syncro floorpan and support (passat) $400 or approx $1500 for Rallye?
O2m mounts $350
Haldex mount $400
______________________
low: $1450 mid: $2250 high $3350

Plus around $1500 for various things I may encounter/ paint/ sandblasting/ powdercoat/ hardware/ driveshaft shortening.

Based upon my own costs I think I could do rallye for around $6300, and passat for right around $5000. If I skimped on management I could get down to around $4200. Keep in mind this is all not including the countless hours of prep and install but 90% of that can be done by me with help from family/ friends.


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## jp mk3 jolf (Jul 11, 2008)

Oil light pops up when the car is stopped or idle. But when I'm driving it goes away. By the way it's only when the car is warmed up. New pump. Pan. Oil pump drive shaft. And pan gasket :banghead:


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Well you need to run and oil pressure test. Typically this is not a good sign. If you have changed everything including oil pressure sender, then your looking at an internal issue primarily at the crank. Bad crank bearing, bad rod bearing or something gone wrong in the valve train 


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## jp mk3 jolf (Jul 11, 2008)

I have not touch the sender yet.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Try that 1st.


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## jp mk3 jolf (Jul 11, 2008)

How can I pressure test it?


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Oil pressure testing kit. Plug it in where the oil pressure sender mounts. Borrow the kit from someone or rent from autozone. Remove the oil pressure sensor and screw in the appropriate adapter. Snap the pressure gauge into the adapter and fire her up. 

Remember, you have two oil pressure switches. One for low pressure and one for high pressure.


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## Dubnskate (Nov 19, 2011)

Not doin 16v now traded for a built obd2 aba. Wat I need to swap that in and is there a build thread that tells stuff?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

James:

Stock driveshafts need to be cut to length and sleeved or custom cut to length. Good luck on that for under 1500. Even with not having +suspension, haldex axles are too big. Being a G60 you might need to change the outters if there is a difference in hub splines (not sure personally). 

Welding the trans cup on the k frame is also not free unless you are welding it yourself or know someone.

Don't forget the clutch, 700-1k. If you were also referring to the "screw mod" for the rear diff, might want to rethink that. The real stand alone for haldex is tits. 

Other than that the list looks pretty legit. VR6 Haldex stuff is way more expensive than 1.8t stuff.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Outers are different and wheel bearings are the same. 


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Dubnskate said:


> Not doin 16v now traded for a built obd2 aba. Wat I need to swap that in and is there a build thread that tells stuff?


 Same thread he told you to read. 

Get the Bentley manual for both cars, and repin the connectors so they plug into the fuse box. Takes time but if you are asking how to do the swap, you may be in way over your head and should seek assistance.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Dubnskate said:


> Not doin 16v now traded for a built obd2 aba. Wat I need to swap that in and is there a build thread that tells stuff?


Better be adding forced induction to that snail. :laugh:


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I just sold mine about a week ago. It was a 92 SLC. I sold it for 6,000. Do you guys think I got a good deal? Here's a little bit of what was done to it:

70k miles
K&N filter
Exhaust
Chip
Leather interior
Weitec 60/40
T red
90mm front lip
BBS rims
No real problems.. Just needed tires.

I love corrados, and I'm searching for a G60! Thanks, guys.


----------



## Dubnskate (Nov 19, 2011)

HavokRuels said:


> Better be adding forced induction to that snail. :laugh:
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


He'll ya bbm stage 3 supercharger.


----------



## Gaspo2k (Mar 27, 2012)

How do you know for sure weather you have a ABS or a non ABS system? . I seem to have a small leak somewhere in the brake booster. every 2 weeks my brake fluid drops a little to the point where i need to keep topping it off. I looked everywhere for a leak and i couldn't find one under the pedals or the slave. i finally found one coming around the area of the brake booster, i cant tell exactly where . my brake pedal feels solid but my clutch goes to the floor and it doesn't comeback when the fluid is low. I know it sounds weird but can the master brake cylinder go bad and leak inside the brake booster?? 

corrado g60


----------



## SLC4EVER (Oct 7, 1999)

Gaspo2k said:


> I know it sounds weird but can the master brake cylinder go bad and leak inside the brake booster??


Absolutely. Waaaay back in the day I had a Mk1 Scirocco that did this. I just kept adding fluid not knowing where it was going. Filled the booster all the way to the vacuum line. When I hit the brakes really hard it would make an awesome smoke trail out the exhaust. That's when I knew where it was going. :laugh:


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Dubnskate said:


> He'll ya bbm stage 3 supercharger.


Now that's gonna make it much more fun to drive!


----------



## Dubnskate (Nov 19, 2011)

HavokRuels said:


> Now that's gonna make it much more fun to drive!


Ya lol


----------



## Adriank (Apr 29, 2012)

When coming to a stop at a light, I notice my idle hangs at about 1500 rpm for 2 - 3 seconds, before dropping down to the normal 900 - 850 ish. This is at a full stop, car in neutral. 

This just started happening today on the way home from work. Was about 12 C outside, light rain. The oil was changed 3 days ago with 20W50. Other than that I haven't done any recient work to the car. 

Any ideas?


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I'm currently looking for a G60 after selling my SLC.. Anything to look for? Anything to stay away from? I've only had 3 corrados total. 1 G60, one 8v and one VR6.. What should I expect to pay for one that's unmolested and in decent shape? Thanks, guys.


----------



## Vdubspot (Dec 3, 2011)

*Clamshell Question*

I was wondering if a clamshell from a 92 slc is compatible with a 92 slc. anybody know? i'd appreciate it. thanks.


----------



## clintg60-16v (Dec 13, 2002)

Vdubspot said:


> I was wondering if a clamshell from a 92 slc is compatible with a 92 slc. anybody know? i'd appreciate it. thanks.


Why yes, I think it would!


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Vdubspot said:


> I was wondering if a clamshell *from a 92 slc is compatible with a 92 slc.* anybody know? i'd appreciate it. thanks.


----------



## Vdubspot (Dec 3, 2011)

*clamshell*

ha, is a 92 slc clamshell compatible with a 93 slc? i have the problem with the numbers and stuff.


----------



## Kumba1 (Feb 19, 2011)

*Idle problem*

Stock 92 Corrado vr6 144k miles with a fluxuating idle only when the motor is hot. When driving for a while, and when I arrive at a stop. The car will idle from 800~500 rpms, but eventually idle normal if stopped for long enough. Cleaned the iac, changed CTS, and new battery ( only because it needed one.) I have a bentley manual:banghead:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Vdubspot said:


> ha, is a 92 slc clamshell compatible with a 93 slc? i have the problem with the numbers and stuff.


Its different at the hazard switch (button on top), so in order to fit a '92 clamshell to a '93 you need the hazard switch also - kinda going backwards if you ask me personally...


----------



## bino1470 (Jun 7, 2012)

*92 corrado vr6 got it no spark*

hi new to the volkswagen world i have a 
92 volkswagen corrado Vr6 140k got it for free 
i get fuel pressure and it turns over but i get no spark?
after further examination it looks like rats ate the wire harness to the computer after taking couple hours of splicing it back to gether every single wire i still get no spark? i was wondering where i should go from here? And im having some issues with the factory alarm would that make it not get spark? any help would be appreciated thank you


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

bino1470 said:


> hi new to the volkswagen world i have a
> 92 volkswagen corrado Vr6 140k got it for free
> i get fuel pressure and it turns over but i get no spark?
> after further examination it looks like rats ate the wire harness to the computer after taking couple hours of splicing it back to gether every single wire i still get no spark? i was wondering where i should go from here? And im having some issues with the factory alarm would that make it not get spark? any help would be appreciated thank you


Yes factory alarm will stop the car from starting. 

You will need to recheck your wiring, and refer to the Bentley Manual for all relays and wiring on the track for powering the Coil. Check for Spark coming out of the coil going to the Distributor.


----------



## FlatlanderSJ (Oct 4, 2007)

bino1470 said:


> hi new to the volkswagen world i have a
> 92 volkswagen corrado Vr6 140k got it for free
> i get fuel pressure and it turns over but i get no spark?
> after further examination it looks like rats ate the wire harness to the computer after taking couple hours of splicing it back to gether every single wire i still get no spark? i was wondering where i should go from here? And im having some issues with the factory alarm would that make it not get spark? any help would be appreciated thank you


if it was a problem with the security system it wouldn't even turn over with the key. it sounds like the crank sensor is shot.

Static test across crank sensor......
Pins 1 & 2 is 500 to 700ohms expected.
Pins 1 & 3 is open circuit.
Pins 2 & 3 is open circuit.


----------



## bino1470 (Jun 7, 2012)

FlatlanderSJ said:


> if it was a problem with the security system it wouldn't even turn over with the key. it sounds like the crank sensor is shot.
> 
> Static test across crank sensor......
> Pins 1 & 2 is 500 to 700ohms expected.
> ...



How do I do this test?
Do I unplug the sensor to check?


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> The grounds are in the harness, it spiders off everywhere from usually a central splice in the loom. I thought you were pulling apart all of the loom so you could organize your wiring?
> 
> 
> 
> :thumbup:


Cleaned up the passenger side but haven't done the drivers side (rats nest) :laugh:


----------



## Adriank (Apr 29, 2012)

Adriank said:


> When coming to a stop at a light, I notice my idle hangs at about 1500 rpm for 2 - 3 seconds, before dropping down to the normal 900 - 850 ish. This is at a full stop, car in neutral.
> 
> This just started happening today on the way home from work. Was about 12 C outside, light rain. The oil was changed 3 days ago with 20W50. Other than that I haven't done any recient work to the car.
> 
> Any ideas?


Problem seems to be getting worse. The idle hung for much longer today. I plan on checking the vaccum lines, idle screw, and cleaning my isv on the weekend. Any other suggestions?


----------



## bino1470 (Jun 7, 2012)

FlatlanderSJ said:


> if it was a problem with the security system it wouldn't even turn over with the key. it sounds like the crank sensor is shot.
> 
> Static test across crank sensor......
> Pins 1 & 2 is 500 to 700ohms expected.
> ...


I get .521ohms but no spark


----------



## mk_ultra (Jan 31, 2009)

A couple of air conditioning questions:

Is it possible to swap in a mk3 air conditioning unit into a Corrado SLC? If so. Are there any benefits?


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

my rado hesitates when below 1/4 tank only when making right turns... 
anything above 1/4 tank, it runs perfect with no hesitation at all.

any ideas?


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

eurobred said:


> my rado hesitates when below 1/4 tank only when making right turns...
> anything above 1/4 tank, it runs perfect with no hesitation at all.
> 
> any ideas?


The float in the tank might be rotting out? My mk1 always stalled on right hand turn and its not uncommon for that problem in the mk1s


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

g60301 said:


> The float in the tank might be rotting out? My mk1 always stalled on right hand turn and its not uncommon for that problem in the mk1s


am i able to just replace the floater? if so, can i get them off other cars?


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

eurobred said:


> am i able to just replace the floater? if so, can i get them off other cars?


 I remember when I had my mk1 it was possible to do it threw the hole in the trunk, however it was recommended to get a new tank, which I never did. I sold it and bought a Corrado. But I'm not positive that's that's your problem, I would assume you could replace it. Google" mk1 right hand turn stall out "see what you think.


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

g60301 said:


> I remember when I had my mk1 it was possible to do it threw the hole in the trunk, however it was recommended to get a new tank, which I never did. I sold it and bought a Corrado. But I'm not positive that's that's your problem, I would assume you could replace it. Google" mk1 right hand turn stall out "see what you think.


both threads i found in google regarding this issue, everyone is saying "get a new gas tank"

so im guessing i need a new gas tank lol.
never had to deal with this, i didnt know the floater and gas tank were together? or is that a newb question? always thought the gas tank was just a big empty canister and everything else was on the internet pump (floater, etc)


----------



## Dorrado (Dec 12, 2001)

I'm having issues trying to figure out the name of the engine harness retaining clips/zip tie thingies.

I re-wrapped some engine bay wiring and i need some new zip tie thingies that screw onto the threaded studs in the engine bay to keep the wires tucked up against the firewall.

any help or suggestions to find these? don't necessarily need to be vw parts but black and clean looking would be nice.


Thanks!


----------



## pileofredparts (Mar 20, 2009)

SLC4EVER said:


> Absolutely. Waaaay back in the day I had a Mk1 Scirocco that did this. I just kept adding fluid not knowing where it was going. Filled the booster all the way to the vacuum line. When I hit the brakes really hard it would make an awesome smoke trail out the exhaust. That's when I knew where it was going. :laugh:


me too, car was smoking..............until i ran out of brake fluid :banghead:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

eurobred said:


> my rado hesitates when below 1/4 tank only when making right turns...
> anything above 1/4 tank, it runs perfect with no hesitation at all.
> 
> any ideas?





eurobred said:


> both threads i found in google regarding this issue, everyone is saying "get a new gas tank"
> 
> so im guessing i need a new gas tank lol.
> never had to deal with this, i didnt know the floater and gas tank were together? or is that a newb question? always thought the gas tank was just a big empty canister and everything else was on the internet pump (floater, etc)


The Float could be bad, and also the Pump could be separated from the Housing. 

Before you go nuts, pull the pump out. You may pull the cover off and find the pump floating in the tank. If so, as long as the slots to attach the pump are good, you can replace it. 

If it is the OEM Pump, the VDO Replacement does require a VDO Sending unit or you can gut the pump housing and drill some holes for the Pierburg Sending Unit to be used. 

Good Luck, and again, pull the pump out first so you do not drive yourself nuts.


----------



## pileofredparts (Mar 20, 2009)

Dorrado said:


> I'm having issues trying to figure out the name of the engine harness retaining clips/zip tie thingies.
> 
> I re-wrapped some engine bay wiring and i need some new zip tie thingies that screw onto the threaded studs in the engine bay to keep the wires tucked up against the firewall.
> 
> ...



the vw corrado ones are nla afaik


----------



## Dorrado (Dec 12, 2001)

pileofredparts said:


> the vw corrado ones are nla afaik


Do you happen to know of any suitable aftermarket replacement? or perhaps what they are called in etka so i can google for an alternative?

thanks for the quick response


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

eurobred said:


> both threads i found in google regarding this issue, everyone is saying "get a new gas tank"
> 
> so im guessing i need a new gas tank lol.
> never had to deal with this, i didnt know the floater and gas tank were together? or is that a newb question? always thought the gas tank was just a big empty canister and everything else was on the internet pump (floater, etc)


If I remember correctly there's some plastic hose connected to the pump that rots away after years aswell. Hope you get down to the bottom of it. Also do what *dubzak* said and pull the cover off in the trunk and take a peek. :thumbup: lets us know what the prob was for future reference. :beer:


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

g60301 said:


> If I remember correctly there's some plastic hose connected to the pump that rots away after years aswell. Hope you get down to the bottom of it. Also do what *dubzak* said and pull the cover off in the trunk and take a peek. :thumbup: lets us know what the prob was for future reference. :beer:


will do, once i get a chance to dig in there :thumbup:


----------



## FlatlanderSJ (Oct 4, 2007)

bino1470 said:


> I get .521ohms but no spark


maybe it needs a cap and rotor or a coil?


----------



## SLC4EVER (Oct 7, 1999)

Dorrado said:


> Do you happen to know of any suitable aftermarket replacement?


There is a replacement that I used, but I didn't save the part number. Zeb should be able to help you out...

Instead of a zip tie type, they are more of a hook and loop (not velcro). They still thread in place though.


----------



## Dorrado (Dec 12, 2001)

thanks for the help!

i will pm zeb :thumbup:


----------



## joesh (May 22, 2012)

*HELP!: 93 Corrado SLC in Seattle with fried wiring harness*

My baby and daily driver until 3 weeks ago when a short from batt+ to fan housing melted the wiring harness on the driver's side. The shop says they don't know how long it'd take to replace the harness and recommends junking the car. People on VWVortex For Sale disagree and say post here for help.

It's very low miles, no rust, some dings around the fenders and it needs a good buffing but other than that it's in excellent shape. I'd hate to junk it. Please help me fix it save it from the parts bin.

It melted on the driver's side. The battery cable that goes to the + terminal abraded against the fan housing til it wore through. Then it was a full-on short to ground. The wires inside the big round plug are a mess. So are a few other spots on the driver's side that I can see.

How can I best determine if the body harness is gone as well? Are there good test points to meter? What do I need to disconnect to isolate it enough that I don't get false positives? Any resources on here you can recommend that'll help me debug this? I'm handy with electronics (I rebuilt my Porsche 914's FI harness) but I'm not knowledgeable about Corrado guts at all. Way more complex than my 914!


----------



## hrdcorr1970 (Sep 20, 2009)

*stuck and frustrated*

I have a 90 G60 and I can't find the fusable link. I've lost complete electrical power and have gone as far as replacing the fuse block. The harness is pretty beat up so That will be one of the last straws. Please help before I lose faith and get rid of the car.


----------



## gticraz (Feb 8, 2012)

I have MK 4 GTI 1.8T and i have stage 1 apr chip and a magnaflow exhaust. The issue im haveing is a slow coolant leak and i dont know where it is coming from?:banghead:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

gticraz said:


> I have MK 4 GTI 1.8T and i have stage 1 apr chip and a magnaflow exhaust. The issue im haveing is a slow coolant leak and i dont know where it is coming from?:banghead:


:facepalm:

This is the *Corrado* forum you know :sly:....


----------



## sydg60in (Jun 9, 2007)

*G60 exhaust*

My question is should i run a 2.25 cat back or go with 2.5 on a basically stock g60 motor with a 68mm pulley on the charger no chip or anything. I do plan on chipping the car in the future after charger rebuild. I have had the car for a long time and had a 2.25 tt cat back on it aluminized and wanna go stainless. Just trying to get some good advice here before i buy the stainless. The car has been a resto project from day one nature of a g60 i am starting to get close to being finished and i will not give up till its done. :banghead:


----------



## deemee (Aug 7, 2011)

Are the relays in the fuse panels interchange able? The previous owner of my car is missing some and change some relays around. 

Also when the radio is on the turn signals dont work. What could be a cause for this.


----------



## CAH8 (Dec 22, 2011)

What is a good website to find corrados for sale?


----------



## deemee (Aug 7, 2011)

CAH8 said:


> What is a good website to find corrados for sale?


the corrado classifieds on vortex...


----------



## CAH8 (Dec 22, 2011)

deemee said:


> the corrado classifieds on vortex...


I have looked at that and found nothing. I guess I should've been more specific. I am in Lancaster, PA and I have looked at vortex, craigslist, autotrader, ebay, and cars.com. Still nothing


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

joesh said:


> My baby and daily driver until 3 weeks ago when a short from batt+ to fan housing melted the wiring harness on the driver's side. The shop says they don't know how long it'd take to replace the harness and recommends junking the car. People on VWVortex For Sale disagree and say post here for help.
> 
> It's very low miles, no rust, some dings around the fenders and it needs a good buffing but other than that it's in excellent shape. I'd hate to junk it. Please help me fix it save it from the parts bin.
> 
> ...


You may need to rewire the whole car. Remove the harness in the bay and pull the dash. Great Bonding experience. Don't forget to label all the connectors. 
http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html



hrdcorr1970 said:


> I have a 90 G60 and I can't find the fusable link. I've lost complete electrical power and have gone as far as replacing the fuse block. The harness is pretty beat up so That will be one of the last straws. Please help before I lose faith and get rid of the car.


Ignition Switch? Where is your Bentley Manual? It tells you what to trouble shoot as far as no start issues. 



gticraz said:


> I have MK 4 GTI 1.8T and i have stage 1 apr chip and a magnaflow exhaust. The issue im haveing is a slow coolant leak and i dont know where it is coming from?:banghead:


Try Looking harder or pressure testing the system. Most likely at the coolant flange but for real, try the MK4 forum or the 1.8T forum. 
$On the flange. If you were in Orlando I could look at the car for you. 



sydg60in said:


> My question is should i run a 2.25 cat back or go with 2.5 on a basically stock g60 motor with a 68mm pulley on the charger no chip or anything. I do plan on chipping the car in the future after charger rebuild. I have had the car for a long time and had a 2.25 tt cat back on it aluminized and wanna go stainless. Just trying to get some good advice here before i buy the stainless. The car has been a resto project from day one nature of a g60 i am starting to get close to being finished and i will not give up till its done. :banghead:


I like 2.5" on G60's, (a.k.a. VR6 Exhaust modified to fit) 2.25 Is the standard for G60 Exhaust systems. 
Check the G60 Forum. 



deemee said:


> Are the relays in the fuse panels interchange able? The previous owner of my car is missing some and change some relays around.
> 
> Also when the radio is on the turn signals dont work. What could be a cause for this.


Relay issues, and for everyone else in this post, your Betley Corrado Manual is REQUIRED . Use it please. The relays should not be moved around.....put them back in place. 

Your relays are here: CE2 Wiring Some of the upper relays and fuses are explained in the Bentley as well. 



CAH8 said:


> What is a good website to find corrados for sale?





CAH8 said:


> I have looked at that and found nothing. I guess I should've been more specific. I am in Lancaster, PA and I have looked at vortex, craigslist, autotrader, ebay, and cars.com. Still nothing


17-22 Year old car, most are gone. If you want a clean one, you will need to broaden your search outside your city.


----------



## yellofang (Jun 11, 2012)

*corrado ICM?*

Just got a 1990 corrado g60. I have spent weeks looking for the ignition control module. Does this car even have one? If so where is the little devil located?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

yellofang said:


> Just got a 1990 corrado g60. I have spent weeks looking for the ignition control module. Does this car even have one? If so where is the little devil located?


You should only be spending $90.00 on the appropriate repair manual Known As The BENTLEY REPAIR MANUAL. 

Then you can find whatever you need.


----------



## InstantKarma (Jan 5, 2005)

Hey guys,

our g60 developed an interesting issue this weekend. Driving on the highway, went over a bump and the car started acting funny. bucking and sputtering a little, a few minute later it completely died.

here is what I have done so far.

The starter would not turn at all so i figured the alternator died on us and the battery slowly drained to the point that the car died.

We had the car towed home, We put a new battery in it to see get it going (even with a dead alt it should still start for a bit at least) and I got the same thing... turn key... nothing

The next thing I thought was ignition switch, we got a new one and I tried it with no luck. while I was turning the key trying to get the starter going I noticed a small amount of smoke from under the dash (fried relay possibly??). I did notice that there is a larger sized red with yellow stripe wire under the dash that gets really hot when I try running the starter. Im going to try to locate this wire in the bently but I figured I would ask just in case someone happens to already know what this particular wire is for.

I put the old ignition switch back in place and tried it a few times and the car out of nowhere started up and ran just fine for about 60 seconds, then as if someone flipped a switch, it immediately shut off without us touching anything.

My first question for you guys is, what route does the starter solenoid wire take from the starter to the ignition switch? are there any other relays/switches between the ignition switch and the starter? Im getting 12 volts to the starter but only about 6 or 7 to the solenoid trigger when i turn the key. Does the ECU play any part in making the starter run?

thanks for the help!

:laugh:


----------



## yellofang (Jun 11, 2012)

*Bentley manual*

I have the Bentley manual on disk and have found it to be a total waste of time and money....it's unreadable. Have tried it on four different computers. I still need to know where the ignition control module is on a 1990 corrado g60. A proper answer would be appreciated other than RTFM (read the fine manual).


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

InstantKarma said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> our g60 developed an interesting issue this weekend. Driving on the highway, went over a bump and the car started acting funny. bucking and sputtering a little, a few minute later it completely died.
> 
> ...


Check the bentley. All of the wiring diagrams are there. You may have a bad load reduction relay causing the no crank issue. If you jump the starter with a piece of wire does it crank over then?



yellofang said:


> I have the Bentley manual on disk and have found it to be a total waste of time and money....it's unreadable. Have tried it on four different computers. I still need to know where the ignition control module is on a 1990 corrado g60. A proper answer would be appreciated other than RTFM (read the fine manual).


There is no ICM on a G60. The ECU has the ICM built in.


----------



## InstantKarma (Jan 5, 2005)

TheBurninator said:


> Check the bentley. All of the wiring diagrams are there. You may have a bad load reduction relay causing the no crank issue. If you jump the starter with a piece of wire does it crank over then?


yeah, I turned the ignition to ON in the car. then jumped 12 volts to the trigger on the solenoid and it cranks over just fine but never fires.

the lights in the car work, dash lights up... the battery and oil lights are flashing. heater blower and stuff still runs.


----------



## CAH8 (Dec 22, 2011)

To run an obd2 engine in an obd1 car do you have to convert the car to obd2 or how does that work?


----------



## reverend33 (Apr 12, 2010)

Brake pedal is rock hard all of the sudden, i am almost positive it is the ABS assist. should have a used one here in a day or so. i see most guys are no longer running ABS, should i ditch the system like everyone else or try to keep the factory option alive?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

CAH8 said:


> To run an obd2 engine in an obd1 car do you have to convert the car to obd2 or how does that work?


 Yes, the Engine Management is what decides this. If the Car is a Coilpack VR6 OBD1, It can be converted to OBD2 by changing the following: 
Intake Manifold, Engine Harness, Computer, Throttle Body, Downpipe. You then need to wire it up, and add the additional O2 Sensor. 
There is a thread outlining the whole swap, do a search on here or on google. 



reverend33 said:


> Brake pedal is rock hard all of the sudden, i am almost positive it is the ABS assist. should have a used one here in a day or so. i see most guys are no longer running ABS, should i ditch the system like everyone else or try to keep the factory option alive?


 Personal Preference on what you want. 
I love my Working ABS. I hope I did not Jinx Myself with That :laugh:. I personally will upgrade to a later ABS system if this one ever fails.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Ok, quick question for the G60 experts (I could post this in the G60 tech.forum but not much traffic there so I'll try my luck here) 

I bought a Gates PowerGrip G-lader cog belt only to find out that it won't fit. 
I measured it and its 12,5mm width (I didn't knew its width before I bought it). The description however said it was specifically for G60 and that its the widest belt you can fit to a standard G60. 
My old one (Gates powergrip again) is 11,9mm. 

Any ideas?


----------



## crisvr6 (Jun 14, 2007)

where did you buy it ? 

http://www.arz-tuning.de/shop/index.php/language/fi/manufacturers_id/49


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

CAH8 said:


> To run an obd2 engine in an obd1 car do you have to convert the car to obd2 or how does that work?


 Reread this, and actually no. You can put an OBD2 Motor into an OBD1 car, all other parts must be transferred over.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Ok, quick question for the G60 experts (I could post this in the G60 tech.forum but not much traffic there so I'll try my luck here)
> 
> I bought a Gates PowerGrip G-lader cog belt only to find out that it won't fit.
> I measured it and its 12,5mm width (I didn't knew its width before I bought it). The description however said it was specifically for G60 and that its the widest belt you can fit to a standard G60.
> ...


 Doesn't fit how? It should fit a single pulley width wise, right?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

crisvr6 said:


> where did you buy it ?
> 
> http://www.arz-tuning.de/shop/index.php/language/fi/manufacturers_id/49


 I'm not sure. I bought it 2 years ago or something. Maybe it was from ARZ or maybe from Bar-tek but I'm not sure... 




Sr. Karmann said:


> Doesn't fit how? It should fit a single pulley width wise, right?


 It doesn't fit width wise. It fits on the upper cog part but hits on the lower cog part, hits on the pulley.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> It doesn't fit width wise. It fits on the upper cog part but hits on the lower cog part, hits on the pulley.


 Upper and lower cogs are the same width IIRC, do you have a notch in your G60 mount bracket? When you guys did your rebuild, did you put the cog pulleys back on in the same orientation they came off in?


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

So drove my car for the first time in about a week, and take note this is how my passenger side window stopped working, well I get in the car the other day And whataya know, driver window won't go down. After pressing the switch off and on for the first mile it finally started working. You think the regulator is on its last legs or should I just go out and exercise the switch everyday :facepalm:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

g60301 said:


> So drove my car for the first time in about a week, and take note this is how my passenger side window stopped working, well I get in the car the other day And whataya know, driver window won't go down. After pressing the switch off and on for the first mile it finally started working. You think the regulator is on its last legs or should I just go out and exercise the switch everyday :facepalm:


 Check the switch first, then check for shorts in the door.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Upper and lower cogs are the same width IIRC, do you have a notch in your G60 mount bracket? When you guys did your rebuild, did you put the cog pulleys back on in the same orientation they came off in?


 Yeah they are the same width but the upper cog doesn't have any obstructions on its end, where the lower cog has the obstruction of the pulley...that's where the 12,5mm belt doesn't fit/hits. 

I can't seem to find any info online on 12,5mm G60 cog belts, so at this point I'm guessing that I was send the wrong belt  
Not that it was expensive or anything but now I have to order a new one from abroad and wait at least a week to get here :banghead:


----------



## Dahk Brown (Jan 21, 2010)

*coolant hoses?*

quick question on coolant hoses: its a 93 SLC, with a 98 vr6 motor in it. im looking into buying samco hoses. would i be able to buy the mk3 hoses or corrado hoses. if buying the mk3 would i be missing any components


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Dahk Brown said:


> quick question on coolant hoses: its a 93 SLC, with a 98 vr6 motor in it. im looking into buying samco hoses. would i be able to buy the mk3 hoses or corrado hoses. if buying the mk3 would i be missing any components


 If the car is a Corrado, you need Corrado hoses. Unless you used a MK3 Radiator. :banghead:


----------



## Dahk Brown (Jan 21, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> If the car is a Corrado, you need Corrado hoses. Unless you used a MK3 Radiator. :banghead:


 thanks guy:heart:


----------



## moterhead7 (Oct 12, 2011)

*tail lights*

im puting new jom tail lights on my 93 corrado. it had clip ins to the stock tail lights. the new ones i need to twine them together. can anyone help as to which wires go together? 
please help. im not good with wires.


----------



## moterhead7 (Oct 12, 2011)

i got the blinkers and hazards working easy. i just have 2 wires going to the tail lights. not sure which go to which...


----------



## Damikestr (Aug 17, 2011)

So in the process of going through the wiring behind the dash. (Had a burnt ignition wire, and wires don't work, replaced steering column for a shot upper bearing) I came across some plugs that I can't figure out where the go/went.














































Another question is the wires in the door behind the speaker they're all just dyked off. Are they part of the Aktiv speaker system?

The car is a '92 VR6 with from what I can tell was retro fitted with all black interior and the heated seats. It may have been an automatic too as there are two small connectors under the shifter trim, one marked "96"

Any assistance would be appreciated and help my progress in getting her back to road worthy status.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-for-G60-rebuild-DIY.&p=77826629#post77826629


----------



## FlatlanderSJ (Oct 4, 2007)

Damikestr said:


>


 *pic 1 and 2, these go into distrobution blocks on the top of the fuse box. match the wire colors/connector colors.* 



Damikestr said:


>


 *this is a test plug for cruse control or security system? not sure but it doesn't get connected to anything* 



Damikestr said:


>


 *this is the clutch switch for cruse control. looks broken or pulled apart.* 



Damikestr said:


>


 *these 2 wires are for the glove box light* 



Damikestr said:


> Another question is the wires in the door behind the speaker they're all just dyked off. Are they part of the Aktiv speaker system?


 *probably, i don't have any experience with that system though.* 



Damikestr said:


> The car is a '92 VR6 with from what I can tell was retro fitted with all black interior and the heated seats. It may have been an automatic too as there are two small connectors under the shifter trim, one marked "96"


 *the 2 connectors are for diagnostics: abs and engine.*


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Yeah they are the same width but the upper cog doesn't have any obstructions on its end, where the lower cog has the obstruction of the pulley...that's where the 12,5mm belt doesn't fit/hits.
> 
> I can't seem to find any info online on 12,5mm G60 cog belts, so at this point I'm guessing that I was send the wrong belt
> Not that it was expensive or anything but now I have to order a new one from abroad and wait at least a week to get here :banghead:


 Ya, the belt should not be wider than the pulley  

Sukks someone sold you the wrong one :banghead:


----------



## Damikestr (Aug 17, 2011)

Bueler, Bueler, chirp, chirp lol


----------



## Damikestr (Aug 17, 2011)

My bad missed that it was replied to I skimmed over it on my phone and thought it was my post


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Ya, the belt should not be wider than the pulley
> 
> Sukks someone sold you the wrong one :banghead:


 I just ordered one from Bar-Tek, which says its 11mm 
My buddy bought one from them a year ago and his was 11,9mm...I guess we'll see as soon as it arrives :facepalm:


----------



## crisvr6 (Jun 14, 2007)

and buy the right one from arz too


----------



## Gertie5000 (Jan 31, 2012)

*Problem in the shifting department...*

So I'm not 100% positive on something but this morning I was attempting to leave for work and it wouldn't shift out of reverse. I was thinking my clutch possibly went out because it started to grind when I first started trying to put it in reverse and my clutch went all the way to the floor with hardly any resistance at all. 

A couple weeks ago my boyfriend put in a new lower shift cable for me and we adjusted it and everything was driving just fine for about a week until this happened. Not sure if any of that had anything to do with it but just a background


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Gertie5000 said:


> So I'm not 100% positive on something but this morning I was attempting to leave for work and it wouldn't shift out of reverse. I was thinking my clutch possibly went out because it started to grind when I first started trying to put it in reverse and my clutch went all the way to the floor with hardly any resistance at all.
> 
> A couple weeks ago my boyfriend put in a new lower shift cable for me and we adjusted it and everything was driving just fine for about a week until this happened. Not sure if any of that had anything to do with it but just a background


 Check your brake fluid level


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Gertie5000 said:


> So I'm not 100% positive on something but this morning I was attempting to leave for work and it wouldn't shift out of reverse. I was thinking my clutch possibly went out because it started to grind when I first started trying to put it in reverse and my clutch went all the way to the floor with hardly any resistance at all.
> 
> A couple weeks ago my boyfriend put in a new lower shift cable for me and we adjusted it and everything was driving just fine for about a week until this happened. Not sure if any of that had anything to do with it but just a background


 
Bleed the Clutch Slave And see if it comes back up. If not the master and slave must be checked. The Throw Out Bearing will also cause a no clutch issue, but that should be the last resort because of course it would involve removal of the transmission. 

Good Luck.


----------



## Gertie5000 (Jan 31, 2012)

Thanks for the advice! Much appreciated


----------



## 91vwg60 (Feb 18, 2009)

*Why? (corrado)*

So as most of you know we PNW guys had the Leavenworth drive over the weekend. My car was running great. Supprised the **** out of me due to it being a G60 :laugh: 

Anyways to the point. As I was driving back it started to have a "hic-up" while cruising down the road. It did it most of the way back and just at normal speed. If it was under load it would'nt do it. 
When i got back into town i hit traffic from the game and it started dying at idle. It would start right back up. 

Now when i start the car it runs fine. but still wants to die from time to time. Hot or cold no difference. 

Any thoughts? I know it may be a long shot.


----------



## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

91vwg60 said:


> Any thoughts? I know it may be a long shot.


 Ignition switch?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Intake leak? You have to look first and narrow it otherwise this thread will see another 100 pages of guesses.


----------



## 91vwg60 (Feb 18, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Intake leak? You have to look first and narrow it otherwise this thread will see another 100 pages of guesses.


 I completely understand. I haven't had much time to take a look at it cause of work. The week before i finished the headgasket on it. It really has been running great but then this [email protected]#!:banghead:


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

When I have my car on a lift, should I be able to push the front struts and move them a little bit? It seems like it's normal, but not sure.


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

1956dub said:


> When I have my car on a lift, should I be able to push the front struts and move them a little bit? It seems like it's normal, but not sure.


 Anybody? Going back to the shop to do front wheel bearings today, am pretty curious.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

1956dub said:


> When I have my car on a lift, should I be able to push the front struts and move them a little bit? It seems like it's normal, but not sure.


 Movement like How? Side to Side? Compressed?


----------



## bcc777 (Jul 15, 2005)

*Coilover Question*

Recently picked up a G60 and have coilovers from an 2002 Cabrio laying around. Will these fit without any issues? 

TIA


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

bcc777 said:


> Recently picked up a G60 and have coilovers from an 2002 Cabrio laying around. Will these fit without any issues?
> 
> TIA


 Yes


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Movement like How? Side to Side? Compressed?


 side to side uncompressed


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

1956dub said:


> side to side uncompressed


 Check The Strut Top Mounts, if they are good and the bearings are newish then yah, bad blown strut.


----------



## Damikestr (Aug 17, 2011)

Ok so I have an issue with the wipers on my 92 VR not working. I've looked at all the wiring with the dash out and it looks fine. Swapped the stalk, nothing, swapped the relay, nothing, bypass and go straight to the motor and they work. Stumped. Need to dig deeper and shoot wires with the Bentley. Any suggestions would be appreciated.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Damikestr said:


> Ok so I have an issue with the wipers on my 92 VR not working. I've looked at all the wiring with the dash out and it looks fine. Swapped the stalk, nothing, swapped the relay, nothing, bypass and go straight to the motor and they work. Stumped. Need to dig deeper and shoot wires with the Bentley. Any suggestions would be appreciated.


 ... Check the fuse


----------



## sydg60in (Jun 9, 2007)

thanks for ur advice i got tt 2.25 cat back and i am gonna run a 42 draft test pipe will see how i like it....


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

notching frame actually safe? 
my car is slammed, i was debating on if i want to get motor mount spacers to lift the motor. my axle already rubs frame on dips im assuming since theres a ring around it lol. 

obviously raising the motor will bring the axle up as well. any insight on notching frame and welding in a reinforcement 'C' shape metal piece?


----------



## Damikestr (Aug 17, 2011)

I failed to mention that I ck'd the fuse too.


----------



## drew93slc (Apr 5, 2010)

My C has been sitting for a while since i moved. Time to give it a jump like always except now when I turn the key the alarm goes off and engine doesnt turn over. What is going on? I have never experienced this any advice would be much appreciated!


----------



## deemee (Aug 7, 2011)

What materials do people use to fix broken door cards? the cardboard part


----------



## mattrip (Sep 5, 2005)

Looking for info on the lower "inspection" block of plate for the O2A 

I believe the part number is 02A 901157C
Bottom block off cover for the transmission, keeps crap from getting in the bell housing. 

Is this part common between the G60 and VR Corrado O2A tranns. Wondering if I can use one from a VR on my G60 and would like to know before ordering.


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

drew93slc said:


> My C has been sitting for a while since i moved. Time to give it a jump like always except now when I turn the key the alarm goes off and engine doesnt turn over. What is going on? I have never experienced this any advice would be much appreciated!


I assume your car went into protect or antitheft mode. Which prevents your car from starting. Common on these. Although. I can not advise a fix. As mine has been removed.


----------



## drew93slc (Apr 5, 2010)

I am aware that it is the anti theft causing the problem, but I am wondering how to fix it or circumvent it if the fix is prohibitivly expensive at this time. I really have to get it back on the road asap! The old florida tags are expired and I have to drive it to the dmv to get the car checked and receive my alabama tag, problem is some code nazi in my neighborhood called the city so I had to hide it at my work to prevent the city from towing it! I have a limited time I can keep it here and after the move funds are very limited!:banghead: any input on how to get it fired back u would be much appreciated. tia


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

mattrip said:


> Looking for info on the lower "inspection" block of plate for the O2A
> 
> I believe the part number is 02A 901157C
> Bottom block off cover for the transmission, keeps crap from getting in the bell housing.
> ...


They are different due to the different bell housing sizes.

Shoot me a PM if you need the correct P/N for your car.


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Check The Strut Top Mounts, if they are good and the bearings are newish then yah, bad blown strut.


So I'm going to revisit this question. I didn't clearly explain it well enough the first time. So I was doing front wheel bearings the other day and we were trying to locate exactly which one was the offender. So I gave both front corners a good "push" directly on the spring. 

The ENTIRE strut assembly moved left and right about 1" springs and all. From the previous replys I'm thinking strut . My upper strut mounts _look_ good, but I don't know how to check them.

So I guess my question is, should I be able to move the strut AT ALL? When the car is on the ground, they are rock solid.

Edit: So after looking through my receipts, the struts were installed at 20k miles, so they have about 60k on them. I'm guessing they could be getting pretty worn.


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

anyone know size/thread/pitch of the bolt that goes through bracket that holds the front sway bar to the body on a 92 slc? (of the three bolts, it's the rear-most bolt on the bracket) Mine fell out somewhere along the way


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

valet said:


> anyone know size/thread/pitch of the bolt that goes through bracket that holds the front sway bar to the body on a 92 slc? (of the three bolts, it's the rear-most bolt on the bracket) Mine fell out somewhere along the way


Tried to look it up in etka, couldn't find it cause i had way too much to drink last night, but why can't you just take the other one out and go match it up at your local hardware store?


----------



## divedave (Nov 9, 2008)

*Missing relay*

Hi, i need some help, in my 1993 vr, one relay is missing but i don´t know the purpose of it and the relay number needed, this is a picture of it:









Located near this area:









Lots of red/white cables... i guess something is not working right but i am not sure what is it 
:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

divedave said:


> Located near this area:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


No clue what it is, but nice bay :thumbup:


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

divedave said:


> Hi, i need some help, in my 1993 vr, one relay is missing but i don´t know the purpose of it and the relay number needed, this is a picture of it:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Definately nice bay. That is where my coil mounts on my C. Mine is a dizzy car though so I'm sure they are different. Maybe that is a base for the coil on dizzy cars and your doesn't need it. Now that I think of it, probably not but ya never know.


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

And another dumb question of mine. Why does my car have a distributor engine? I thought the updated interior 93's should have a coilpack, though mine does not. Is this normal?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

1956dub said:


> And another dumb question of mine. Why does my car have a distributor engine? I thought the updated interior 93's should have a coilpack, though mine does not. Is this normal?


Normal. Early 93's with distributor have the interior, and no Secondary Air Injection, or Coilpack (Obviously). Old Faithful because col packs are indeed the devil. 



1956dub said:


> So I'm going to revisit this question. I didn't clearly explain it well enough the first time. So I was doing front wheel bearings the other day and we were trying to locate exactly which one was the offender. So I gave both front corners a good "push" directly on the spring.
> 
> The ENTIRE strut assembly moved left and right about 1" springs and all. From the previous replys I'm thinking strut . My upper strut mounts _look_ good, but I don't know how to check them.
> 
> ...


Easy enough to take the cap off the strut, lift the car and drop the strut out of the tower to check the mounts. The Bearings will require removal of the struts. 



1956dub said:


> Definately nice bay. That is where my coil mounts on my C. Mine is a dizzy car though so I'm sure they are different. Maybe that is a base for the coil on dizzy cars and your doesn't need it. Now that I think of it, probably not but ya never know.


No the Coil on the Dizzy cars just bolt through the fire wall. But this is something else. I'd need to look it up in the Bentley. Or you could look at yours because I got s*** to do.


----------



## FlatlanderSJ (Oct 4, 2007)

divedave said:


> Hi, i need some help, in my 1993 vr, one relay is missing but i don´t know the purpose of it and the relay number needed, this is a picture of it:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


SAI relay (110 I believe) and fuse. do you have a big blower motor under the manifold in front of the car that looks like this?


----------



## divedave (Nov 9, 2008)

FlatlanderSJ said:


> SAI relay (110 I believe) and fuse. do you have a big blower motor under the manifold in front of the car that looks like this?


Yes i have one, and finally checking color cables:









seems you are right, i was confused because there were other tracks with red/white wiring combinations... 
thanks! :beer:


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> No the Coil on the Dizzy cars just bolt through the fire wall. But this is something else. I'd need to look it up in the Bentley. Or you could look at yours because I got s*** to do.


Touche. 

But I did look, and there is nothing there!!!


----------



## Dustydelux (Apr 17, 2011)

*G60 supercharger*










Just opened up my supercharger and found this waiting for me :banghead: i have the parts to rebuild the charger is this going to affect it?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Dustydelux said:


> Just opened up my supercharger and found this waiting for me :banghead: i have the parts to rebuild the charger is this going to affect it?


Yes, but you can do a small repair, fill the groove to where the apex groove is normal with JB weld. Just gonna have one short apex seal, but may be too short and grenade at high rpms, it's a toss up.


----------



## Dustydelux (Apr 17, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Yes, but you can do a small repair, fill the groove to where the apex groove is normal with JB weld. Just gonna have one short apex seal, but may be too short and grenade at high rpms, it's a toss up.


Is it possible to just get that inner section form some one? it would be allot less expensive then just buying the whole charger. I have inspected everything else and it all seems fine but that one part.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Dustydelux said:


> Is it possible to just get that inner section form some one? it would be allot less expensive then just buying the whole charger. I have inspected everything else and it all seems fine but that one part.


feel free to check the classifieds, I'm sure there are a few folks on there parting out good useable charger parts, but there were 2 different designs on the G-ladder IIRC, so make for certain you get the same part or it will implode or not spin at all.


----------



## Dustydelux (Apr 17, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> feel free to check the classifieds, I'm sure there are a few folks on there parting out good useable charger parts, but there were 2 different designs on the G-ladder IIRC, so make for certain you get the same part or it will implode or not spin at all.


How would i identify which one it is?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Dustydelux said:


> Is it possible to just get that inner section form some one?


 
Its possible - you can even buy it brand new ....

http://www.bar-tek-tuning.com/lshop...,1160011,10,Tshowrub--g-lader.1080321201,.htm




Dustydelux said:


> *it would be allot less expensive* then just buying the whole charger.


...^^don't count on it tho


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Dustydelux said:


> How would i identify which one it is?


You will see a definite design difference on the scroll, get lots of pictures, but IIRC it is the "fin" design


----------



## Dustydelux (Apr 17, 2011)

*Running without super charger.*

I am moving away for college in a few weeks my plan was to get my car done before i leave, but with this charger issue i am wondering if there is a way to bypass the charger and run it without it.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Dustydelux said:


> I am moving away for college in a few weeks my plan was to get my car done before i leave, but with this charger issue i am wondering if there is a way to bypass the charger and run it without it.


YES THERE IS, DO SOME RESEARCH IN THE g60 TECHNICAL FORUM OR ABOUT MIDWAY IN MY BUILD THREAD


----------



## Dustydelux (Apr 17, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> YES THERE IS, DO SOME RESEARCH IN THE g60 TECHNICAL FORUM OR ABOUT MIDWAY IN MY BUILD THREAD


 So you used pvc pipe eh  i think i understand how it works. As i was looking through your build thread i saw that you sent your supercharger to BBM did they do the JB weld?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Dustydelux said:


> So you used pvc pipe eh  i think i understand how it works. As i was looking through your build thread i saw that you sent your supercharger to BBM did they do the JB weld?


I did use PVC and left almost everything in tact except the charger, you need a smaller seep belt and the info on sizing is readily available. I did not let BBM do my rebuild, I did it myself and yes, I made plenty of power with a JB bonded scroll


----------



## DaddyMassacre (Jul 29, 2010)

Hello I need help trying to get a link to source me some good new or almost new door handles for my G60 corrado, links to where to buy them would be awesome


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DaddyMassacre said:


> Hello I need help trying to get a link to source me some good new or almost new door handles for my G60 corrado, links to where to buy them would be awesome


dealer, Corrado classifieds, ebay, google search.........


----------



## DaddyMassacre (Jul 29, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> dealer, Corrado classifieds, ebay, google search.........


hmm dealer sells them Still I might have to swing by my dealer see if they have any, I know original German folk sell handles also but without locks and that's something I don't have... Also I heard Passat door handles work what year of Passat??? Any other handles I could try?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DaddyMassacre said:


> hmm dealer sells them Still I might have to swing by my dealer see if they have any, I know original German folk sell handles also but without locks and that's something I don't have... Also I heard Passat door handles work what year of Passat??? Any other handles I could try?


Original german folks is the way to go, I have 2 of his on my C and they come with the new adjustable steel strikers, you can pick up lock cylinders anywhere and rekey so they all match your ignition & hatch. OEM from the dealer are over $200 each, just sayin


----------



## DaddyMassacre (Jul 29, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Original german folks is the way to go, I have 2 of his on my C and they come with the new adjustable steel strikers, you can pick up lock cylinders anywhere and rekey so they all match your ignition & hatch. OEM from the dealer are over $200 each, just sayin


oh dear 200 no thank you, awesome that's the info I was looking for now for the lock cylenders when you say anywhere any specific location, sry for the noob questions but I really can't afford to make mistakes tight budget and all


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DaddyMassacre said:


> oh dear 200 no thank you, awesome that's the info I was looking for now for the lock cylenders when you say anywhere any specific location, sry for the noob questions but I really can't afford to make mistakes tight budget and all


I would snatch a set at a local junkyard or find someone with broken handles


----------



## corrado93 (Mar 30, 2007)

Can someone tell where's this sound coming from? It's coming from the passenger side and seems to get louder as I go under the car.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I made plenty of power with a JB bonded scroll


I JB welded mine after seeing your thread. It worked great!


----------



## DaddyMassacre (Jul 29, 2010)

So I'm getting my hands on some staggered 16x7 front and 16x8 rears Porsche phone dials ... And I want to know if anyone has had this set up before on there rides and what size adapters were used make them sit flush or a lil tucked in... Any info would be awesome thank you


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

DaddyMassacre said:


> So I'm getting my hands on some staggered 16x7 front and 16x8 rears Porsche phone dials ... And I want to know if anyone has had this set up before on there rides and what size adapters were used make them sit flush or a lil tucked in... Any info would be awesome thank you


What offset (ET) are they?


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

whats the best strut tower bar for vr6 and still keep the engine bay looking clean. do they make that big of a difference? 

this is my sport themed car. all others were low and slow.


----------



## DaddyMassacre (Jul 29, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> What offset (ET) are they?


I'll find out et's this afternoon


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

jettalvr41 said:


> whats the best strut tower bar for vr6 and still keep the engine bay looking clean.


OG Eibach flat bar FTW :thumbup:

$$$ tho...



jettalvr41 said:


> do they make that big of a difference?


I think the general consensus is no....opcorn:


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

RedYellowWhite said:


> OG Eibach flat bar FTW :thumbup:
> 
> $$$ tho...
> 
> ...


That being said? Any other suspension plus options I should
Consider like rear sway and lower front stress bar ect ect


----------



## cashmash123 (Jul 7, 2012)

I cant figure out whats going on! when i speed up around 3000rpms if i push in the clutch and let go of the gas it starts going on its own? and also if i let go at around 3000 i feel a big jerk kinda like the pressure is building up but not being released properly?
you can hear the jerk noise when i let go at 3000 in it and also at the end you can hear how it starts going on its own when i let go at 4000 and I have to push the gas again to make it stop rising

I did just fill it up for the first time since I got it and put in just normal gas not any of that high octane stuff... could that be doing it?


----------



## Dustydelux (Apr 17, 2011)

*Running rich.*

So, i just finished working on my g60 it has not been used for over a year i bought it in dallas and drove it back and parked and started to tare it apart. When i bought it from the guy it was running all right not that great but not to bad. when i got home took around 4 hours it stared to load up and run reallly rich and started to die on me since then i have done alot of work on it i have replaced all cooling hoses, radiator, plugs,wires, cooling sensors and allot more. finally today it we cranked it over. it is running terrible. It can not idle at all i cleaned the Idle Stabilizer Valve with carb cleaner nothing i have found some vacume leaks on the MAP sensor running to the ECU we cut the bad part off some were i heard it must be 1m long is this true? I took it out around my block and it was terrible i was cutting in and out jerking and would barely run it was dark and i had my lights on the whole dash panel was flickering on and off and it was jerking and sputtering. there is a amp connected in the back so i wondered if that is drawing to much power maybe fuel interjection is messed up? i thought i would post on here see if i can get any advise. I also bypassed the supercharger as it is cracked and i am saving up for a used one in good condition.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Dustydelux said:


> So, i just finished working on my g60 it has not been used for over a year i bought it in dallas and drove it back and parked and started to tare it apart. When i bought it from the guy it was running all right not that great but not to bad. when i got home took around 4 hours it stared to load up and run reallly rich and started to die on me since then i have done alot of work on it i have replaced all cooling hoses, radiator, plugs,wires, cooling sensors and allot more. finally today it we cranked it over. it is running terrible. It can not idle at all i cleaned the Idle Stabilizer Valve with carb cleaner nothing i have found some vacume leaks on the MAP sensor running to the ECU we cut the bad part off some were i heard it must be 1m long is this true? I took it out around my block and it was terrible i was cutting in and out jerking and would barely run it was dark and i had my lights on the whole dash panel was flickering on and off and it was jerking and sputtering. there is a amp connected in the back so i wondered if that is drawing to much power maybe fuel interjection is messed up? i thought i would post on here see if i can get any advise. I also bypassed the supercharger as it is cracked and i am saving up for a used one in good condition.


Honestly the more time passes, the more I see things like this. It can be a hundred different things.
Sounds like there is an electrical issue to start.

I swear it would be easier for g60 owners to switch over to this:
http://www.034motorsport.com/034efi-engine-management-034efi-systems-upgrades-stage-ib-ecu-p-34.html

:laugh:


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> I JB welded mine after seeing your thread. It worked great!


:thumbup::thumbup:



jettalvr41 said:


> whats the best strut tower bar for vr6 and still keep the engine bay looking clean. do they make that big of a difference?
> 
> this is my sport themed car. all others were low and slow.


Autotech still has a front tie bar that is adjustable, altho, I opted for the oldschool with center adjuster, beefier part, new looks a lil cheap to me

One of the most noticeable mods I made was a rear strut bar, made it like a whole new car. I still believe in overkill on suspension tho... One last part I "need" is the front lower tie bar by IIRC Autotech



jettalvr41 said:


> That being said? Any other suspension plus options I should
> Consider like rear sway and lower front stress bar ect ect


^^ I do notice my car outhandling pretty much everything on the road, but do have sticky ass tires as well. My setup is in my link 



HavokRuels said:


> Honestly the more time passes, the more I see things like this. It can be a hundred different things.
> Sounds like there is an electrical issue to start.
> 
> I swear it would be easier for g60 owners to switch over to this:
> ...


:laugh: Very true sir, Digi is fo bustaz


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

cashmash123 said:


> I cant figure out whats going on! when i speed up around 3000rpms if i push in the clutch and let go of the gas it starts going on its own? and also if i let go at around 3000 i feel a big jerk kinda like the pressure is building up but not being released properly?
> you can hear the jerk noise when i let go at 3000 in it and also at the end you can hear how it starts going on its own when i let go at 4000 and I have to push the gas again to make it stop rising
> 
> I did just fill it up for the first time since I got it and put in just normal gas not any of that high octane stuff... could that be doing
> ...


----------



## Nostalgia (Sep 25, 2003)

Can anyone check compatibility of an a/c compressor for me? There's one for sale out of an 04 GLI - part number is 1J0820803K. I need one that will be compatible with a 2000 Jetta 2.0. 

ECS tuning lists ALL mkiv jetta's as needing part number 1J0820803N, except the 12 valve VR6 which needs a 1J0820803E.

Thanks for the help. And if anyone has any advice about trying to change this thing myself, please let me know. I found a DIY on tdiclub and think I can handle it. My plan is to take it to a shop and have them vac the system out, change the compressor myself and then charge it myself.

Also, my compressor doesn't run when the a/c is on, and it gives it a rough idle. Bad compressor, right? How would I know it's not just the clutch or something else?


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

Nostalgia said:


> Can anyone check compatibility of an a/c compressor for me? There's one for sale out of an 04 GLI - part number is 1J0820803K. I need one that will be compatible with a 2000 Jetta 2.0.
> 
> ECS tuning lists ALL mkiv jetta's as needing part number 1J0820803N, except the 12 valve VR6 which needs a 1J0820803E.
> 
> ...


Your in wrong forum. This the corrado forum. Just saying. Try mk4! But there may one question that be answer, ohm out your ac clutch. It should have 2 to 4 ohms. Any higher ohms or open circuit will cause the compressor not engage. Start there 1st. If it ohms out good, put 12v to ac clutch and see if come on. If it does, you have other issues.


----------



## Nostalgia (Sep 25, 2003)

I've asked general questions in this thread before. There usually seems to be someone who knows. MKIV guys know two bits of advice:

1. "bentley is your friend"
2. "search is your friend"

There has to be someone here with ETKA (? or whatever) access!


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

Nostalgia said:


> I've asked general questions in this thread before. There usually seems to be someone who knows. MKIV guys know two bits of advice:
> 
> 1. "bentley is your friend"
> 2. "search is your friend"
> ...


Give it time, ETKA goes asleep on sunday. :laugh:Check back tomorrow.


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

QUOTE=petethepug;73973266]Wagenstad is still _down for maint :thumbdown:_

Here's the band aid site for those who do not have EKTA

http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/au/au.mycat?SelVh&cl=dr2000[/QUOTE]


----------



## Vernon374 (Jul 9, 2012)

well, my first one is about corrado stance............http://www.*********/ht3.jpg


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> :laugh: Very true sir, Digi is fo bustaz


:laugh::laugh:


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Nostalgia said:


> ... MKIV guys know two bits of advice:
> 
> 1. "bentley is your friend"
> 2. "search is your friend"



Its the same in the Corrado forum...


----------



## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

*Clutch creak*

I have been getting a bit of a creak in my clutch with a new (old) Corrado I bought. The clutch works fine with no issues, but the car sat for a while and some mechanical things are making noise from non-use, so I am lubricating things as I find them. When I press the clutch with the car off I get a creak like springs in a bed, and it seems to be coming from the engine bay and not the pedals but its hard to say exactly. I can't figure out the source of it as there doesn't appear to be any springs in the mechanism that would account for the sound. Any ideas?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

a_riot said:


> I have been getting a bit of a creak in my clutch with a new (old) Corrado I bought. The clutch works fine with no issues, but the car sat for a while and some mechanical things are making noise from non-use, so I am lubricating things as I find them. When I press the clutch with the car off I get a creak like springs in a bed, and it seems to be coming from the engine bay and not the pedals but its hard to say exactly. I can't figure out the source of it as there doesn't appear to be any springs in the mechanism that would account for the sound. Any ideas?


there are springs on your pressure plate


----------



## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

Sr. Karmann said:


> there are springs on your pressure plate


Are you talking about the pressure plate fingers? Would they account for the spring noise as the clutch pedal is pressed? I wouldn't think so. It sounds more like a spring that is being sprung and then unsprung as the pedal is engaged. I thought there was a spring assembly attached to the throwout bearing but I could be wrong.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Mine has had the "Creeking Noise" since 2006. I have replaced the clutch, and he sound is still there. Most likely in the pedal cluster.


----------



## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

DUBZAK said:


> Mine has had the "Creeking Noise" since 2006. I have replaced the clutch, and he sound is still there. Most likely in the pedal cluster.


You may be correct. I will see if I can lubricate the pedal mechanism. Sticking my head up in there and pushing in the clutch didn't reveal much noise from the pedal cluster though. It seems to be coming from the engine bay unless the noise is being "referred" from the pedal mechanism through the firewall.


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Creeek'n noise. I ordered new bushings for the pedal assmby and had the stealer install them. NOT a fun job. I still had to give the assembly one more shot of silicone spray after the job. BTW this was back in 01 when it was a daily in commuter traffic. No issues since then.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> Mine has had the "Creeking Noise" since 2006. I have replaced the clutch, and he sound is still there. Most likely in the pedal cluster.


Mine has been doing the same for a while...




petethepug said:


> Creeek'n noise. I ordered new bushings for the pedal assmby and had the stealer install them. NOT a fun job. I still had to give the assembly one more shot of silicone spray after the job. BTW this was back in 01 when it was a daily in commuter traffic. No issues since then.


^^ Interesting :beer:


----------



## Nostalgia (Sep 25, 2003)

So someone was looking at my Corrado and took it to a mechanic who said the "ballast resistor was out" and that was why my a/c didn't work. What is a ballast resistor? Where is it and how do I change it?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Nostalgia said:


> So someone was looking at my Corrado and took it to a mechanic who said the "ballast resistor was out" and that was why my a/c didn't work. What is a ballast resistor? Where is it and how do I change it?


Obviously this mechanic doesn't know what he is talking about. There is no ballast resistor in the AC circuit.


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Is this the factory radio harness? I've ripped out all the activ wires but I'm left with this, and if it is a factory radio harness( which I think it is because the amped antenna is plugged into it. ) All the other wires got plugged into different harnesses then eventually go to the speakers. Where do the two harnesses in the pic end up? Fuse block?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

g60301 said:


> Is this the factory radio harness? I've ripped out all the activ wires but I'm left with this, and if it is a factory radio harness( which I think it is because the amped antenna is plugged into it. ) All the other wires got plugged into different harnesses then eventually go to the speakers. Where do the two harnesses in the pic end up? Fuse block?


pretty sure it's just the whit plug Josh, check the leads with a light, flip key, yada, you should have 12v constant, 12v acc & illumination, 0-12v and a ground somewhere in the mix


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

^^^there both integrated together though I'd like to take it out if I don't need it, unless it would be easier just to tap into one of the 2 plugs for for wiring for the Alpine. But ill grab my bros test light and do what you said brotha. Did you remove these harnesses also Chad?

Part number on black harness is 357 035 447 any one have etka up?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

g60301 said:


> ^^^there both integrated together though I'd like to take it out if I don't need it, unless it would be easier just to tap into one of the 2 plugs for for wiring for the Alpine. But ill grab my bros test light and do what you said brotha. Did you remove these harnesses also Chad?
> 
> Part number on black harness is 357 035 447 any one have etka up?


I'd be almost willing to bet you can separate the wires out. I looked up that PN and ya, it's for the radio, but doesn't give any more info


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I'd be almost willing to bet you can separate the wires out. I looked up that PN and ya, it's for the radio, but doesn't give any more info


So I'm amusing they can be ditched, I can kinda see where they go for the most part,but I just glanced. They gotta go to the fuse block, I don't know where else they would go. And of course of there taped up with more wires :banghead:


----------



## bunkkaws (Feb 7, 2008)

*Lower Rad Support Screws*

Hey all, does anyone know the part #s for the two screws to the lower rad support? I can't find them in my old copy of the ETKA. Any help would be appreciated as the car came without them. :thumbdown:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

g60301 said:


> So I'm amusing they can be ditched, I can kinda see where they go for the most part,but I just glanced. They gotta go to the fuse block, I don't know where else they would go. And of course of there taped up with more wires :banghead:


Ya man, do yourself a favor, get all up in there and sort your wiring, you will be glad you did


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

bunkkaws said:


> Hey all, does anyone know the part #s for the two screws to the lower rad support? I can't find them in my old copy of the ETKA. Any help would be appreciated as the car came without them. :thumbdown:


Same as the fender screws


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## bunkkaws (Feb 7, 2008)

HavokRuels said:


> Same as the fender screws
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad



Thank you sir, huge help


----------



## bunkkaws (Feb 7, 2008)

g60301 said:


> Is this the factory radio harness? I've ripped out all the activ wires but I'm left with this, and if it is a factory radio harness( which I think it is because the amped antenna is plugged into it. ) All the other wires got plugged into different harnesses then eventually go to the speakers. Where do the two harnesses in the pic end up? Fuse block?




Here you go man, best I can do. However it seems that the wiring from Q/3 you want to keep power. First diagram is the keymap or whatever for the next two. Also use this link for pinouts

http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/radios.html




























Now get to it!


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Gearing up to do major overhaul on the Beasts engine bay. Missing one key piece of the puzzle.

I need to know what size freeze plug will fit into the oil cooler line inlet on the block? I have an external oil cooler and the current freeze plug/line inlet is capped off and I want to do it the right way by just putting a straight up freeze plug in there.

:beer:


----------



## SLC4EVER (Oct 7, 1999)

36mm

Be careful taking the old plug out. The cylinder wall is directly behind it.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

SLC4EVER said:


> 36mm
> 
> Be careful taking the old plug out. The cylinder wall is directly behind it.


Thanks!! Best way will probably be to try and pry outward by the coolant nipple? I know how much a pain in the ass plugs can be to remove. Suggestions?


----------



## SLC4EVER (Oct 7, 1999)

Get a seal removal tool (hook shaped). Drill a hole in the nipple perpendicular to it big enough to get the hook into. Then just pry it out.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

SLC4EVER said:


> Get a seal removal tool (hook shaped). Drill a hole in the nipple perpendicular to it big enough to get the hook into. Then just pry it out.


Wow that's perfect! Got the seal tool already.

:beer::beer::beer:
:beer::beer::beer:

6pack for you.


----------



## corrado713 (Jul 11, 2012)

*fans do not come on at the right temp*

alright vortex i am a noob to vw but i do know some of the basics

i have a 93 rado slc

my problem is that my rad fans will not come on while the car is running. they come on when the car is off but thats about it. i know that if the temp is above 230 the fans should be on the higher speed correct? when the car is off they are only running at a low speed. is that correct? water temp is 230 most of the time. they have came on out of no where one time then they stoped working again. :banghead:

i know of the sensors and switches that may need replaced but im not sure witch one it is

any knowledge on this would be much appreciated 

thanks!


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

corrado713 said:


> alright vortex i am a noob to vw but i do know some of the basics
> 
> i have a 93 rado slc
> 
> ...


Got Bentley

Bottom line, Start with Jumping the Fan Switch to see of they come on. Then jump the Fans. If the Switch Does Not Work at turning them on, but the Fans do come on with direct power, replace the fan switch FIRST. Then if with a new fan switch they Still do not come on, check the Fan Control Module. 

The other 3 Sensors on the thermostat housing are for 
Brown: AC Fan and Uber Loud High Speed (Speed 3 which you hardly ever hear)
Blue: Temp for ECM. 
Yellow: Auxiliary Water Pump, After Run Cycle (why you hear the fans when off, is because this is working) 

If you have air in your system, (Not Burping Correctly) your fans will not turn on because of an air pocket in the Radiator by the Fan Switch. 


Good luck and GET A BENTLEY Repair Bible. N00b.   :beer: Welcome to the Corrado Forum.


----------



## corrado713 (Jul 11, 2012)

got the bentely! just wasnt sure thanks!


----------



## corrado713 (Jul 11, 2012)

*fans do not come on at the right temp*

i forgot to metion i already replace the rad sensor and the big fan module. so i went to check the thermo stat sensors and put them back in and ass i went for a drive the fans came on? im guessing it could have just been a bad contact? but i noticed the fans are only coming on around 220. is that normal? do you know the correct temps for the different speeds of the fan??

thanks


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

QUOTE=corrado713 

Like dubzak said there was probably air caught around the fan switch. It is the grey bottle cap looking sensor that screws onto the radiator. Have you replaced that? It's an easy 10-20$ replacement iirc. To answer your question. The fans should come on at the low setting at between 200 and 205. Someone else might correct me but w/e. 220 is a bit high. 
Change the fan switch if you haven't already. 

You can look back at many previous N00bz who have asked these very same questions.
Welcome to Corrado ownership


----------



## deemee (Aug 7, 2011)

So im leaking coolant but im not sure where it is coming from, I have a pic to help. I'm not sure if a blown head gasket or one of the collant pipes. Coolant seams to be leaking from under the exhaust manifolds. some input would help.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Pull the Engine Covers and take a look at the hose going to the Cylinder Head from the Heater Core. Most likely and I see an OEM Hose so chances are Age killed it.


----------



## German Juggernaut (Jan 26, 2005)

*NON-ABS SWAP: HARDMODE QUESTION*

I'm familiar with Oichan's write up found here:
http://www.oichan.org/mods/abs/abs2.htm

I recently stopped at a local shop to inquire about them doing the non-ABS swap for me. While I have not used them before, they have a long history working with VWs and have a good reputation. 

The owner (who has over 20 years experience) informed me that to properly do the swap, I would need full brake lines out of a non-abs corrado or b3 passat, as well as every bracket and bolt to connect them. (Which he implied were a TON of parts, as well has a huge pain to do) He said I would also need something I think he referred to as a pressure regulator for the rear brakes, as without changing this could cause the rear brakes to lock up. He said that none of the hangers for the lines between the abs and non-abs models line up, and that if I simply tried to plug the brake lines that came with the abs version into a non-abs master cylinder, it could be highly problematic. While he never said 'it won't work', it made it sound almost apocalyptic if I didn't swap out a myriad of parts beyond what is normally listed in online guides. 

_I can't find anything referencing this scenario in searches. Every link I follow searching here on or google all link back to Oichan's write up. I apologize if I missed what I am looking for somewhere else._

If the problem the shop explained to me was real, I would assume someone, somewhere would have posted about it and it would have been discussed. Since I can't find anything, is the shop full of dookie, just being a bit overzealous about sticking with original parts?
*
Anyone who has done a non-abs swap, if you have experienced any problems, your input would be highly valuable. * 

Thanks in advance to the Keepers of Corrado Knowledge. 
I pray at your temple daily, and will soon sacrifice an abs unit if it may gain me your blessings.


----------



## hendrikbmx (Oct 12, 2009)

just wondering if I can feel the car being slower after changing the rims from stock Speedlines to Porsche D90's , because they seem to quite alot heavier ?


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

1st off, No, don't let the mech do the job on your car if he doesn't want to grab a tubing bender and flare some lines if that's his objection. 

2nd, it's a worthwhile project to do yourself if you have the mechanical ability. That's a call you need to make.

3rd, the (search) engine on the Vortex runs fine. Google however outperforms it. All you need to know click here.


----------



## deemee (Aug 7, 2011)

My rearview mirror fell off from the base. I tried using industrial Strength adhasive and it didn't work. What should I use instead?


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

2parts fast drying epoxy? Or best bet is call a glass company and see what the recommend


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

I'm not sure why the mirror glue wouldn't work. Ive done dozens if not more. You have to press and hold pretty hard for a few minutes then I usually tape for an hour



Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

Hey guys, I'm in the middle of doing my 5 lug swap on my G60. I'm using all MK3 VR parts and was told I need to do the rack too. Does the rack bolt up to the G60 steering column or do I need a MK3 VR steering column as well? Thanks. :thumbup:


----------



## Dustydelux (Apr 17, 2011)

*Fuel Rail*

How do i test the voltage on the fuel rail?


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

twoteks said:


> Hey guys, I'm in the middle of doing my 5 lug swap on my G60. I'm using all MK3 VR parts and was told I need to do the rack too. Does the rack bolt up to the G60 steering column or do I need a MK3 VR steering column as well? Thanks. :thumbup:


VR steering knuckle assembly


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

HavokRuels said:


> VR steering knuckle assembly
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


Yeah I used VR steering knuckles, and control arms but the G60 tie rods were too short. Ended up using VR tie rods on the G60 rack and it worked out pretty good. :thumbup:


----------



## Gaspo2k (Mar 27, 2012)

*timing belt cover*

Can anyone please tell me how to remove the timing belt cover. I cant seem to find or access any bolts. Any pics would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you


----------



## corrado713 (Jul 11, 2012)

*spoiler problems.*

alright guys i have a 93 slc 

my spoiler does work but it likes to blow fuses alot. is this common? any way to fix it? higher amp fuse? any info would be great..

also just an add on. on the top of the dash there are three speaker covers. are they for looks or are they atcually speakers if so mine are broke lol 

thanks for the imput


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

corrado713 said:


> alright guys i have a 93 slc
> 
> my spoiler does work but it likes to blow fuses alot. is this common? any way to fix it? higher amp fuse? any info would be great..
> 
> ...


You need to service your spoiler motor. Clean and lube

There are 2 speaker covers and they do hold speakers.


----------



## corrado713 (Jul 11, 2012)

what about the very small one in the middle and how could i remove the covers


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

corrado713 said:


> what about the very small one in the middle and how could i remove the covers


Huh? There are no small speaker grills in the middle of the dash. Just a dummy cover on 92 an earlier cars and defrost vents


----------



## corrado713 (Jul 11, 2012)

mine is a very early 93 is it possible that it has that dummy cover


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

corrado713 said:


> mine is a very early 93 is it possible that it has that dummy cover


Unless you still have slide heater controls you won't.


----------



## corrado713 (Jul 11, 2012)

alright thanks


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Huh? There are no small speaker grills in the middle of the dash. Just a dummy cover on 92 an earlier cars and defrost vents





corrado713 said:


> mine is a very early 93 is it possible that it has that dummy cover





TheBurninator said:


> Unless you still have slide heater controls you won't.


Actually the Early 93's have it, just without the extra recess the 92 has in the center of the dash. 

It is just a cover though, cannot do S**t with it except maybe put a boost gauge there.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Can somebody tell me what LENGTH are the oe Corrado lug bolts?


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

Does anyone know if it is possible to take apart the hood hinges (at rear by rain tray?) I want to powdercoat them but don't think they will come apart.


----------



## NYCGTM (Mar 23, 2004)

JamesS said:


> Does anyone know if it is possible to take apart the hood hinges (at rear by rain tray?) I want to powdercoat them but don't think they will come apart.


I don't think they can be opened. Seems riveted on. Just PC them in the "open" angle since the closed angle will not matter anyway.


----------



## Steddy (Jul 9, 2011)

*heater core*

I have a 90 g60 i've been working on for a while. I have done most maintance work on the car now i'm loosing very little coolant. I have seen problems with the heater cores on these cars. I called vw of america about the recall, seems mine already had it done. If this could be the problem where can i find one that will not do this again? I can not find any leaks anywhere in the engine compartment, I replaced the water pump, thermostat, samco coolant hoses, blue and black temp sensors, and thermo switch. I still smell coolant after she warms up, fan seems to work fine now after thermo switch was replaced. Please help.http://www.vwvortex.com/Anthony/Smilies/banghead.gif


----------



## me50 (May 28, 2009)

Carpet wet anywhere?


----------



## ml1986 (Apr 27, 2012)

Hello Experts!

I stumbled upon this pictures, and I was wondering. What kind of rims are those?










:beer:


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## Steddy (Jul 9, 2011)

*heater core*

No not wet anymore. Had a leak around the fresh air vent that is now fixed. Pressure tested the system this morning, it held 15lbs of pressure for about 45 minutes. I think i found where the smell was coming from. I have a water to air intercooler and the connections were a little loose and had a little fluid on the bottom of them. Now tightened. I need to take it for a long ride to get it nice and hot and see what happens. Still doesnt explain why im loosing engine coolant although it isnt very much I am still concerned.


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

My motor has been a little noisy lately. Last oil change I did I put 10-30 in. Anyway my question is how do you guys feel about Lucas oil additive? Do you recommend adding some.


----------



## corrado713 (Jul 11, 2012)

*doing a friend a favour*

alright guys i finally got my friend to sell his P.O.S toyota and buy a corrado. :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: he has yet to make an account so im asking for him

alright this is a 90 g60

the speedo is not working the previous owner said the cable is not connected. how can i get to this and how can i fix it to get the speedo working before he brings it home?

any info would be great 

thasnks


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Speedo cable runs from the tranny to the back of the cluster. Make sure it's connected on both ends


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## corrado713 (Jul 11, 2012)

how can i remove the antenna base


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

corrado713 said:


> how can i remove the antenna base


Drop the headliner.


----------



## DaddyMassacre (Jul 29, 2010)

*im back again*

Ok I'm back again. This time with gladder questions, can anyone give me links and answers plz

1) I need hardware to mount my gladder, I don't have any screws to put this Thing on

2) any DIY with detail pics of where the oil lines connect the connection types for both motor and gladder 

3) belt assistance currently gladder sitting on a 65mm pulley 


Ok that's all i can think of right now if anymore come up I'll ask again


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

DaddyMassacre said:


> Ok I'm back again. This time with gladder questions, can anyone give me links and answers plz
> 
> 1) I need hardware to mount my gladder, I don't have any screws to put this Thing on



^^These???
http://www.corradoparts.com/G_Lader..._Steel_G60_Supercharger_Installation_Kit.html


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Can somebody tell me what LENGTH are the oe Corrado lug bolts?


Bump...


----------



## SLC4EVER (Oct 7, 1999)

27mm


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

SLC4EVER said:


> 27mm


Thanks :beer:


----------



## DaddyMassacre (Jul 29, 2010)

RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^These???
> http://www.corradoparts.com/G_Lader..._Steel_G60_Supercharger_Installation_Kit.html


yes exactly, has anyone ever bought these? Sry never heard of this site so I'm a bit skeptical


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

DaddyMassacre said:


> yes exactly, has anyone ever bought these? Sry never heard of this site so I'm a bit skeptical


Yes they are legit. Remember to use anti-seize to reduce any chances of corrosion between the two metals. Me personally, I don't use stainless bolts if they are screwing into aluminum threads. 


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## DaddyMassacre (Jul 29, 2010)

HavokRuels said:


> Yes they are legit. Remember to use anti-seize to reduce any chances of corrosion between the two metals. Me personally, I don't use stainless bolts if they are screwing into aluminum threads.
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad



Good to hear there legit, is it bad to put stainless into aluminum? Sry don't know all the technical stuff also any other options?

Also anyone can answer any of my previous questions plz i really would like to get this thing in asap


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

DaddyMassacre said:


> Good to hear there legit, is it bad to put stainless into aluminum? Sry don't know all the technical stuff also any other options?
> 
> Also anyone can answer any of my previous questions plz i really would like to get this thing in asap


Taken from Welding Web


aluminum and stainless steel can and do corrode when put together.

The two differing metals set up a galvanic couple (aka a small battery) and corrode.

The aluminum loses. 

Add in some moisture and the reaction happens faster. 

Add in some other electrolyte or source of ions, like something acidic or basic or salty or etc, and the corrosion reaction will occur even faster.

So -totally- dry and -totally- clean (anodized aluminum and passivated stainless steel) might last for a while.

But if you have -any- moisture or ions involved, the aluminum loses.

And concrete is an alkalai environment, so you really don't want to stick a piece of aluminum in contact with it to begin with. Add in some moisture (bathroom and concrete/mortar/grout pretty much means there is or will be moisture above and beyond just 'regular' atmospheric moisture/humidity) and you really don't want to put stainless and aluminum together there.

The aluminum loses.





Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## DaddyMassacre (Jul 29, 2010)

Sht I didn't know this, hmm well seeing how i really don't know where else to source the hardware. Could I just wrap the whole thread in that white tape plumbers use on piping? To avoid most contact and hope for the better


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

I would use anti-seize compound, it will be just fine that way. Remember steel is way more corrosive when used in aluminum but what usually happens is that the metal corrodes but it's the other way around with AL and SS.

I've only seen really cheap cast aluminum actually fuse with stainless to the point where they are no longer separable.

In your case, many others have used those bolts without a hitch, just use the compound on the threads :beer:


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

DaddyMassacre said:


> Ok I'm back again. This time with gladder questions, can anyone give me links and answers plz
> 
> 1) I need hardware to mount my gladder, I don't have any screws to put this Thing on
> 
> ...


Oh Those G-lader bolts. Deff not something you want to deal with if they seize or break. The standard G60 pistons and rods are so built they shake the sh!t out of the motor when it's cam'd hard with hi boost. 

Regardless, the g-ladder is no place for stainless. Typical failure on fasteners occur from distorsion of the Allen bolt head surfaces. If a fastener does fail you have to be able to cut, drill or tap it out. The preferred method is with a reverse threaded bit that will worm the broken bolt out as you drill. Stainless is unnecessarily difficult to drill out. 

My g-ladder bracket failed after my poor decision to compromise it's structure. This led to a broken bolt at the back side of the charger. Supah easy to drill out. I never would of imagined this action would tighten up the broken stud so much. Use a reverse thread drill bit for this tapping broken bolts! I broke a easy out off inside a bolt (inside the case). 

BBM backs their products! This was my f' up and they got me out of it. They disassembled the case, secured it in the CNC and drilled the easyout of the back of the charger. It broke one of thier high tensile bits but they got it out. Imagine this occurring with stainless. I now use antisieze on the tip of the bolts and a drop of blue loctite further up the threads. 

Stick with oe fasteners. The tensil strenth of stainless and its properties don't suit it being used a magnesium case.


----------



## SLC4EVER (Oct 7, 1999)

Don't use ant-seize on stainless fasteners. Use a good marine grease or low strength threadlock instead, threadlock being the best insulator in most cases. Anti-seize is conductive, so it's like having water sit between the two dissimilar metals. Corrosion happens much faster. Stainless fasteners are fine, just get quality fasteners with good tensile strength. ARP makes quality stainless fasteners. In the case of galvanic corrosion the anode (aluminum) is usually much bigger than the cathode (fastener) being used so it's not really a factor. The threadlock or grease will be sufficient for slowing the corrosion that does take place at the threads.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

SLC4EVER said:


> Don't use ant-seize on stainless fasteners. Use a good marine grease or low strength threadlock instead, threadlock being the best insulator in most cases. Anti-seize is conductive, so it's like having water sit between the two dissimilar metals. Corrosion happens much faster. Stainless fasteners are fine, just get quality fasteners with good tensile strength. ARP makes quality stainless fasteners. In the case of galvanic corrosion the anode (aluminum) is usually much bigger than the cathode (fastener) being used so it's not really a factor. The threadlock or grease will be sufficient for slowing the corrosion that does take place at the threads.


See I learned something new. Didn't know anti-seize was conductive, that's why I don't use stainless on aluminum anyway. One less thing to worry about. I will say this, I've broken away from those retarded Allen head fasteners in every possible location. Don't care about it not being "original" it's my beast and I'll do what I want to. :laugh:


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## SLC4EVER (Oct 7, 1999)

Yeah, some of the OE fasteners are just too soft. The Allen drive can be a nightmare if you aren't careful with them. I've been replacing the ones that seem to strip on a regular basis with a good 12.9 cap heads. I use to care about making them pretty...not so much anymore.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> Don't care about it not being "original" it's my beast and I'll do what I want to. :laugh:



OEM plus? .........:laugh:


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> OEM plus? .........:laugh:


Since 1996 :laugh: 


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> Since 1996 :laugh:
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


:laugh:

Sent while sitting on my ass at work


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> :laugh:
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass at work


Chad, getting ready to repair my main engine harness, lots of cracked wiring, what's that website with the pin connectors and crimping tool?

Also should I just sleeve all the wiring with heat shrink instead creating a whole new harness?


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

kinda weird......
so since i dont know where the plug is to scan for CEL codes, ill ask here.
i have an OBDII scanner just dont know if the corrado has one to meet with.
i used to use it on my Mk2 VRT

anyway, here is the deal, for some reason my CEL flickers when i drive. 
It gets faster at idle, and it slows down once i start driving or anytime the RPMs go up.
any idea why this is?

here is a video i just recorded of it for reference...


----------



## zideman (Oct 23, 2004)

I've been having a dome light / sunroof switch problem. I thought I would cross-post it here to see if anyone can help resolve. Many thanks in advance. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5624689-93-Corrado-Dome-Light-(w-Sunroof-Switch)

I replaced the dome light and sunroof switch with this unit. (B4 Passat)








The whole thing is getting power because the sunroof controls are illuminating...
But the sunroof wont move and the dome lights wont turn on.
Mind you I just replaced all the bulbs for good measure. and the fuses seem to be intact.

What should I do next? Is there a relay I'm missing or have blown?
Do I need to think about a work around?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

eurobred said:


> kinda weird......
> so since i dont know where the plug is to scan for CEL codes, ill ask here.
> i have an OBDII scanner just dont know if the corrado has one to meet with.
> i used to use it on my Mk2 VRT
> ...


It has a 2 by 2 Adapter that needs to be added to the OBD2 Scanner to read the car. 

You for Sure need to scan it. :thumbup:



zideman said:


> I've been having a dome light / sunroof switch problem. I thought I would cross-post it here to see if anyone can help resolve. Many thanks in advance.
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5624689-93-Corrado-Dome-Light-(w-Sunroof-Switch)
> 
> ...


If you have not checked the fuse do so. Also you will need to look at the harness because I have a feeling if 2 switches do not work, and the dome light does not light up, you may have a break in the wiring between fuse box and switch.


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## zideman (Oct 23, 2004)

DUBZAK said:


> If you have not checked the fuse do so. Also you will need to look at the harness because I have a feeling if 2 switches do not work, and the dome light does not light up, you may have a break in the wiring between fuse box and switch.


The fuses under the dash are free and clear, no breaks. hmmm I may have to check the harness. I need to get my hands on a voltmeter right?


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

DUBZAK said:


> It has a 2 by 2 Adapter that needs to be added to the OBD2 Scanner to read the car.
> 
> You for Sure need to scan it. :thumbup:


 where can i get this adapter? and where are the wires located? 
its still flickering, wana try to find out why its doing so.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

eurobred said:


> where can i get this adapter? and where are the wires located?
> its still flickering, wana try to find out why its doing so.


 Wires are located under the shifter surround. Pull the shift cover up and you should see two connectors just hanging out.


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## The Skeptic (May 31, 2000)

*Corrado G60 - Fluids and service*

I just inherited a solid 1990 Corrado g60: 
Manual trans, mostly stock, with TT catback and neuspeed chip. Freshly rebuilt charger has the RSR outlet. rebuilt engine and head. 

I want to know a recommended synthetic motor oil and gear oil, and the recommended intervals to change each. 

Also, Can you guys recommend a G60 specialist in PA near Philadelphia? thanks.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

I use royal purple 5w30 for oil but I'm sure your going to get a ton of suggestions


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Haynie said:


> I want to know a recommended synthetic motor oil


 10W-40 Castrol for me


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Haynie said:


> I just inherited a solid 1990 Corrado g60:
> Manual trans, mostly stock, with TT catback and neuspeed chip. Freshly rebuilt charger has the RSR outlet. rebuilt engine and head.
> 
> I want to know a recommended synthetic motor oil and gear oil, and the recommended intervals to change each.
> ...





HavokRuels said:


> I use royal purple 5w30 for oil but I'm sure your going to get a ton of suggestions
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


 Agreed :laugh: 

Castrol 10/40 on Stg 4 G60 

Will be going Syntec after break-in on my 2.0l16vt, but staying 10/40


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## corrado713 (Jul 11, 2012)

93 vr 

my rad fans will not come on at for anything but the air conditioner. checked all the switches on rad and thermostat. replaced rad switch with lower temp one. when the rad in jumped directly only the second speed works:banghead: i honestly have no clue what to do 

any help would be great. 

water temp light came on for the first time yesterday scared me to death would like to get fixed so that never happens again lol 

:banghead:


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

corrado713 said:


> 93 vr
> 
> my rad fans will not come on at for anything but the air conditioner. checked all the switches on rad and thermostat. replaced rad switch with lower temp one. when the rad in jumped directly only the second speed works:banghead: i honestly have no clue what to do
> 
> ...


 There is no water temp light, it signals low coolant. You can jump the fan to see what speeds work and which don't by pulling off the thermoswitch harness and jumping the red (power) with ref/black and then red/white. Unfortunately, the resistor in the fan seem to die leaving you without the first and sometimes even the second speed, so only the top speed (no resistors) works. I would hazard a guess that a new fan is in your future. Its interesting that no one ever suspects the fan since they assume that if it works on one speed it should work on all, but the resistor pack built into the fan seems like a really poor design and prone to failure.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

corrado713 said:


> 93 vr
> 
> my rad fans will not come on at for anything but the air conditioner. checked all the switches on rad and thermostat. replaced rad switch with lower temp one. when the rad in jumped directly only the second speed works:banghead: i honestly have no clue what to do
> 
> ...


 I have asked if you have jumped the fans on all 3 speeds now a few times, exchanged PM's about what sensors do what, and every time you do not answer if the fan has ALL 3 Speeds. 
If you do not have all 3 speeds, and it comes on with ac only, you either have a broken wire, or the bad fan just burnt up another fan control module. 

PLEASE test the FAN 1st, and get back to us. 

If you do not know how to jump the fan, google, or ask.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Starting to do preliminaries on the engine wiring, there are items that have been deleted and I need to know how to eliminate the wiring from the engine bay the right way.

Example: auxiliary water pump and crank breather valve. Do I remove them all the way to the ECM? And if so, do I need to remove the pin from the ECM?

Thanks!


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Torque specs for bolting 1pc wheel adapters to hub?


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

Hey Guys, will upper inner door trim from a SLC fit on my 91 G60? Please let me know. Thanks in advance!! :thumbup: 

David


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## FlatlanderSJ (Oct 4, 2007)

HavokRuels said:


> Starting to do preliminaries on the engine wiring, there are items that have been deleted and I need to know how to eliminate the wiring from the engine bay the right way.
> 
> Example: auxiliary water pump and crank breather valve. Do I remove them all the way to the ECM? And if so, do I need to remove the pin from the ECM?
> 
> ...


 I would just de-pin the wire from the engine connector. no need to remove it all the way to the ecu.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

FlatlanderSJ said:


> I would just de-pin the wire from the engine connector. no need to remove it all the way to the ecu.


 Thanks!


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## eyepoppet (May 2, 2011)

I have a 1990 g60 and it wont crank over. I have power from the battery to the starter, there is power to the "s" wire when key is in crank position ecu relay is new, starter is new. I checked for shorts on all wires between the ignition switch, relay center, coil pack, battery and starter. 

I had replaced a fair amount of the engine electrical harnesses along with a few sensors. I have also pulled the dash and disconnected the aftermarket stereo system. all that's plugged in is the headlight switch, turn signal switch, cig lighter, fog switch, defrost switch and spoiler switch. diver side door is off, sun roof is out and seats are removed. fuse box was replaced with one from mk3 jetta. 

When reconnecting the relay center the only thing that I wasn't for sure on was terminal 30&30B. idk what those do or how to check for continuity. the knock sensor is unplugged. Wire K/12 is unplugged and idk what to do with that. the black/purple wire from the fuel pump after run relay does not have a home. I could not find where that plugs into even with help from the bently. also a blue/black wire doesn't have a home but I think thats for some sort of addition equipment I don't have. 

The C cranked before I started digging into it, wiring is not my strong point when it comes to restorations so im asking for some help 

I can not figure out why I have a no crank condition, what have I over looked? is there some sort of safety switch regarding no seats or seat belts? 

thanks guys.


----------



## pug_nasty (Jun 17, 2009)

*90 G60 Fuse Box PLEEEAAASSSEEEE*

Can somebody please post a picture of their fuse box for a 90 g60. I'm having trouble with some of the locations and the Bentley doesn't seem to match whats in my car. 
Thanks


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

pug_nasty said:


> Can somebody please post a picture of their fuse box for a 90 g60. I'm having trouble with some of the locations and the Bentley doesn't seem to match whats in my car.
> Thanks


 http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html


----------



## pug_nasty (Jun 17, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html


 Hmmm this is very confusing. Mine seems to have more "20"s than what is pictured so I'm not sure whats going on. :banghead:


----------



## pug_nasty (Jun 17, 2009)

Can anyone just post up a pic of their '90 g60 fusebox with everything in? Much appreciated.:beer:


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Ok why do I need to add the ABS pressure regulator to my rear brake line on the abs delete swap when there is a pro portioning valve in the rear???


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## eyepoppet (May 2, 2011)

*no spark....k*

This is a 1990 G60 digifant1 
I have yet to see this one run bought it with a no crank no start condition. 

to start off. no spark...ok so i checked for neg pulse. nothing there....ok maybe theres a break in the wire. I pull off the 25 pin ecu connecter and connect my test light to one end to the positive battery post and the other to terminal 25 (which is the green wire that sends spark). It lights up.. K awsome.. so I decied to check the rest of the pins. 

Key in on position 
pin 1 starter power has ground 
pin 3 fuel pump engages 
pin 6&7 are grounds for sensors so i would assume the test light would light up. maybe a break in there. Would that effect the ecu no sending spark??? 
pin 12 injector power has ground 
pin 13 ecu ground is grounded 
pin 14 power from control unit relay enganges 
pin 19 has ground 
pin 22 idle stab valve has power 
pin 23 ecu relay clicks and enganges 
pin 25 to ignition coil pin has ground. 

knowing that pin 13, 19, and 25 all have ground should my ecu be sending spark to the coil?? 
im trying to figure out if my ecu is done for  
I could really use some feed back. 
thanks


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Wiring is all sorted out and abs wires gone but one question as I can't figure this out.

Why are there two of these??!









I know one goes to the fan but what's the other one?


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Never mind, fan control module :facepalm:


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

I am having trouble with the VSS communicating to my standalone. If my speedo works then the vss is working correctly, right? Blue connectors on fuse box are all connected properly. But for some reason its not registering in vems tune.


----------



## German Juggernaut (Jan 26, 2005)

*G60 Not Starting*

91 g60 automatic (I will soon be converting to manual) 

It's been sitting for a few years; I've been turning it on every couple months to let it run a bit. 
Last month, it refuses to start. It keeps turning over, I can hear air making its way out of the exhaust, but refuses to go any further. 

Thinking it might be the fuel filter, I pulled it, but air/liquid goes right through it. I turned it over with the filter off, and no gas is coming out of the line... could this mean the pump is shot? 

_Full Disclosure: I have the car lifted over a foot in the rear, not sure if this would cause the fuel system to freeze up, or cause the pump to not work with only 1/4 tank of fuel. _ 

Thanks in advance-


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

German Juggernaut said:


> 91 g60 automatic (I will soon be converting to manual)
> 
> It's been sitting for a few years; I've been turning it on every couple months to let it run a bit.
> Last month, it refuses to start. It keeps turning over, I can hear air making its way out of the exhaust, but refuses to go any further.
> ...


 Most certainly could. You need to add gasoline and see if the pump then works because you may have moved the gas away having that end in the air.


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> I am having trouble with the VSS communicating to my standalone. If my speedo works then the vss is working correctly, right? Blue connectors on fuse box are all connected properly. But for some reason its not registering in vems tune.


 Anyone?


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> Anyone?


 To answer your question... If you're talking about the speed sensor on the transmission, yes. That sending unit is for the cluster. 
It may be a situation where the sending unit has failed in some way. Or more likely your standalone isn't reading in the "language" the sending unit is... Sending.
What standalone are you using?
$40.00 on GAP for a new one for the VR.


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Question, I really don't feel to good about adapters so my question is, has anyone drilled there hubs/rotors from 4x100 to 5x100? Could of sworn I've seen it on here somewhere on here before. Opinions please.


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

previous owner did this on my scirocco (so he could run bbs rx-II on the car). Complete waste of time in my opinion - if you want to do it, make sure you have a reputable shop drill out the front rotors and hubs


----------



## Silver_Corrado08 (Oct 19, 2011)

My clutch is acting up. It was floored all the way in. Just changed clutch slave. It now works but it sometimes sinks in. What could be wrong? HELP.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

g60301 said:


> Question, I really don't feel to good about adapters so my question is, has anyone drilled there hubs/rotors from 4x100 to 5x100? Could of sworn I've seen it on here somewhere on here before. Opinions please.


 Adaptec Speedware makes a hub and rotor kit so you can run both whenever, nice kit that will not break the bank :thumbup::thumbup: 



Silver_Corrado08 said:


> My clutch is acting up. It was floored all the way in. Just changed clutch slave. It now works but it sometimes sinks in. What could be wrong? HELP.


 Should have changed the master with it


----------



## ForzaVdub (Apr 10, 2005)

*Obd 1 to obd2*

I just have some general questions about the swap. I am about 90 percent done but want to tidy up some Pieces. I have a 93 CORRADO that I changed to obd 2 harness from passat and computer from glx. Does any one have a male end D connector for the cam position sensor? I took out the pins on mine but need the connector to make work. Another question is how do I run the external air temp sensor to work on the mfa? Which wire is the oil pressure gauge that I need to make work? And what is the thick red with green stripe wire that I had to cut from one of the white fuse plugs to take out from the old set up? 
Thanks !!!!


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Should have changed the master with it


 TRUTH!!!!


----------



## Houpty GT (Feb 23, 2011)

HavokRuels said:


> Ok why do I need to add the ABS pressure regulator to my rear brake line on the abs delete swap when there is a pro portioning valve in the rear??


 Good question. It seems that the brake pressure regulator creates the point where the brake pressure is lowered to the rear wheels. The proportioning valve then further adjust the brake pressure base on the loaded weight of the vehicle. Oichan said you will lock up before you get your weight transfer to the front wheels if you do not use the pressure regulator. 

http://stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/proportioning-valves


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Houpty GT said:


> Good question. It seems that the brake pressure regulator creates the point where the brake pressure is lowered to the rear wheels. The proportioning valve then further adjust the brake pressure base on the loaded weight of the vehicle. Oichan said you will lock up before you get your weight transfer to the front wheels if you do not use the pressure regulator.
> 
> http://stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/proportioning-valves


 It is only needed if you do not use the second rear line.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

TheBurninator said:


> It is only needed if you do not use the second rear line.


 So essentially, now that I removed my abs and am re-plumbing the front two lines and the one that goes to the rear split, the abs valve is not needed? I will still have the two separate lines to each wheel in the rear.

I might just slap it on for good measure.

And thanks houpty for the link!


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> So essentially, now that I removed my abs and am re-plumbing the front two lines and the one that goes to the rear split, the abs valve is not needed? I will still have the two separate lines to each wheel in the rear.
> 
> I might just slap it on for good measure.
> 
> ...


 Do you have a proper non-ABS setup or is there only 1 line running from the MC to the prop valve in the car?


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

TheBurninator said:


> Do you have a proper non-ABS setup or is there only 1 line running from the MC to the prop valve in the car?


 There is a single line going from the MC to the rear splitter then two lines going into the PV and individual lines coming out and going to each rear caliper.

I think :laugh:

Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> There is a single line going from the MC to the rear splitter then two lines going into the PV and individual lines coming out and going to each rear caliper.
> 
> I think :laugh:
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


 So you are doing it the ghetto method and you need the pressure reducer on the line to the rear.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

TheBurninator said:


> So you are doing it the ghetto method and you need the pressure reducer on the line to the rear.


 Awesome thanks!


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## eyepoppet (May 2, 2011)

leme just get this straight here. IF your hall sensor is bad you should still have signal to the coil from the ecu.


----------



## Houpty GT (Feb 23, 2011)

TheBurninator said:


> It is only needed if you do not use the second rear line.


 Can you explain why this is?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Houpty GT said:


> Can you explain why this is?


 Sure. You are putting larger amounts of pressure on the single rear line rather than having it split between two lines. Essentially that single line is a low volume high pressure hydrolic line. Two lines would be higher volume lower pressure. 

I will stick with how the factory setup non-ABS cars. Hell even VW thought a single rear line was a mistake and moved to a full 4 channel ABS system the year after they stopped building the Corrado.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

eyepoppet said:


> leme just get this straight here. IF your hall sensor is bad you should still have signal to the coil from the ecu.


 It could be an intermittent signal issue instead of a complete failure. This would still allow for triggering the the ecu to fire the coil.


----------



## Houpty GT (Feb 23, 2011)

TheBurninator said:


> Sure. You are putting larger amounts of pressure on the single rear line rather than having it split between two lines. Essentially that single line is a low volume high pressure hydrolic line. Two lines would be higher volume lower pressure.
> 
> I will stick with how the factory setup non-ABS cars. Hell even VW thought a single rear line was a mistake and moved to a full 4 channel ABS system the year after they stopped building the Corrado.


 On a hydraulic system there is not large flow of the fluid during brake operation. The pressure will be the same no matter the amount or diameter of the lines. 
In the 90's I would think a 3 channel ABS system was cheaper or that a 4 channel had not been developed yet.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Ok getting ready to re-connect the fuse block and have a really stupid question,

There were a few relay sized black receptacles mounted to the front of the block and each one of them had several connectors plugged in, i.e. all blue, all black and I think all green terminals, do they go into them in any particular order? Also wtf are they for??? 


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Houpty GT said:


> On a hydraulic system there is not large flow of the fluid during brake operation. The pressure will be the same no matter the amount or diameter of the lines.
> In the 90's I would think a 3 channel ABS system was cheaper or that a 4 channel had not been developed yet.


 That is not an apples to apples comparison. The ABS system in a corrado is specifically designed around being 3 channel. 

Flow of fluid is technically irrelevant for this discussion. Fluid displacement is what we need to talk about. 

The MC displaces the same amount of fluid regardless of if you have a single rear line or two. When you only have one you are displacing that much more fluid down the single line than you would with two lines. That is where you get the pressure difference and thus requiring the pressure reducer.


----------



## mooseinabox (Dec 5, 2011)

I'm about six feet three inches, will I even fit in a Corrado SLC?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

mooseinabox said:


> I'm about six feet three inches, will I even fit in a Corrado SLC?


 Absolutely, I'm 6'-3" and pull my seat up a couple notches :thumbup:


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

If 700lbbench can drive one, anyone can!


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## mooseinabox (Dec 5, 2011)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-SLC-Long-Island-2800&p=78516321#post78516321 

Should I do it? Kinda scared.


----------



## One_Off_Volk (Nov 30, 2011)

Can I mount an intercooler behind the grill to keep the stock front bumper and how would I get the most airflow? 
How could I mount it?


----------



## eyepoppet (May 2, 2011)

90 g60 
Set my my new meter to mV and I have a bar at the bottom of the screen that shows current pulse. 
I am 100% sure that I have pulse from the ecu now. 
I am 100% sure that I have pulse from the Hall generator 
but no spark out of the new coil pack?? i must have done something stupid like, reversed the polarity on the coil pack. I cant think of anything else. 
im just so ready for this car to run


----------



## IMWALKIN (Mar 28, 2002)

im looking to get a newish suspnsion for my 90g60...someone is selling konis but off a vr...will these work on my g? whats the diff? thanks


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

IMWALKIN said:


> im looking to get a newish suspnsion for my 90g60...someone is selling konis but off a vr...will these work on my g? whats the diff? thanks


 Coilover or suspension kit? 

Koni only offers one coilover kit for either G60 or VRs 
I think the only difference in their suspension kits for both models is maybe the spring rates...


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

This wiring has me on the verge of insanity. Does your relay box look like this? Spent 2 hours trying to sort it with nothing but epic failure.

Please help so I can just shove this thing back up and be done with it.

What are these pigtails I've circled, and why do they just go into a dead receptacle, also and ****ing rhyme or reason? Do they just clip in anywhere????!!!











Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

so Coolant isnt circulating through my system, since i check it by removing the reservoir cap while the car was on and i saw no coolant returning back into it... 

i was thinking water pump, but doesnt the water pump usually make noises when its going out due to the uneven fins? 
could there be a possibility that it IS going out and a piece of it is lodged in one of my hoses? 
im trying not to drive the car as much as possible, but when i do i make sure its at night where the air is cooler since im relying on the car moving forward to keep the needle down... I know im slowly damaging my head by not having any circulation... 

any ideas?


----------



## dannyace (Nov 9, 2000)

err, figured it out.


----------



## eyepoppet (May 2, 2011)

HavokRuels said:


> This wiring has me on the verge of insanity. Does your relay box look like this? Spent 2 hours trying to sort it with nothing but epic failure.
> 
> Please help so I can just shove this thing back up and be done with it.
> 
> ...


 find out what's on the other side of the wire or find out what the harness letter/number and pin number is and then trace it with the wiring diagram in your bently. 
mine use to look like that, if you have the time and patience you can unpin the wires from the harness and untangle and organize what ever way you want.


----------



## eyepoppet (May 2, 2011)

eurobred said:


> so Coolant isnt circulating through my system, since i check it by removing the reservoir cap while the car was on and i saw no coolant returning back into it...
> 
> i was thinking water pump, but doesnt the water pump usually make noises when its going out due to the uneven fins?
> could there be a possibility that it IS going out and a piece of it is lodged in one of my hoses?
> ...


 sounds like the thermostat is stuck closed.


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

eyepoppet said:


> sounds like the thermostat is stuck closed.


 that could be the issue, now that i think about it. because my fan doesnt even come on anymore... 

any good way of getting it unstuck? 

Edit: 
nevermind, just read its best to just replace it. 
but where exactly is it?


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

eyepoppet said:


> find out what's on the other side of the wire or find out what the harness letter/number and pin number is and then trace it with the wiring diagram in your bently.
> mine use to look like that, if you have the time and patience you can unpin the wires from the harness and untangle and organize what ever way you want.


 I'm guessing those are connectors for other options such as washer nozzles etc etc., gonna let the dust settle and tackle it after I finish the engine bay.


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## titosantana92 (Sep 11, 2004)

howzit peeps. recently bought a 92 OBD1 corrado vr and it has hesitation problems. the problem is really intermitten so its really hard to diagnose. ive changed out the cap n rotor, along with the wires and the plugs (ngk). its happens when going up hill in low throttle and low rpms. (sometimes) ive also noticed that it happens when i roll the window up. i recently bought a red top optima so i dont know if the battery is the issue. 

really strange. the car is from canada and i cant roll both windows up or down at the same time. im really hoping i didnt buy a electrical issue lemon. any help would be very much appreciated. 


thanks


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

eurobred said:


> so Coolant isnt circulating through my system, since i check it by removing the reservoir cap while the car was on and i saw no coolant returning back into it...
> 
> i was thinking water pump, but doesnt the water pump usually make noises when its going out due to the uneven fins?
> could there be a possibility that it IS going out and a piece of it is lodged in one of my hoses?
> ...


 Stock and cheaper pumps have plastic impellers. If the impeller seperated, no flow and no noise.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

titosantana92 said:


> howzit peeps. recently bought a 92 OBD1 corrado vr and it has hesitation problems. the problem is really intermitten so its really hard to diagnose. ive changed out the cap n rotor, along with the wires and the plugs (ngk). its happens when going up hill in low throttle and low rpms. (sometimes) ive also noticed that it happens when i roll the window up. i recently bought a red top optima so i dont know if the battery is the issue.
> 
> really strange. the car is from canada and i cant roll both windows up or down at the same time. im really hoping i didnt buy a electrical issue lemon. any help would be very much appreciated.
> 
> ...


 One window at a time is normal.


----------



## vwraaner (May 27, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> mooseinabox said:
> 
> 
> > I'm about six feet three inches, will I even fit in a Corrado SLC?
> ...


 Supporting this, i am 6'-2" but i feel that i need to have the seat all way back and all way down. So there is absolutely no room for passengers behind me. But then i feel that i have good space, the hardest thing is getting out of the car when your are this tall :laugh:


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

DUBZAK said:


> Stock and cheaper pumps have plastic impellers. If the impeller seperated, no flow and no noise.


 but my fan doesnt even come on so im thinking its the thermostat... doesnt the fan come on when the thermostat opens?


----------



## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

I'm going to be replacing the clutch on my 68mm pulley, 268/260 cam, stage 3 chip G60 build. Is the VR6 clutch a suitable upgrade for typical "stage 3/4" build? 

thanks! 
eddie


----------



## vwraaner (May 27, 2011)

eurobred said:


> but my fan doesnt even come on so im thinking its the thermostat... doesnt the fan come on when the thermostat opens?


 You do have a big point there! If the radiator fan switch never see any uprise in temperature it will not turn the fan on. And since the radiator aint hot then the thermostat must be stuck closed and holding back the coolant...


----------



## eyepoppet (May 2, 2011)

DUBZAK said:


> One window at a time is normal.


 Test the alternator ripple and make sure it's in spec. If your turning on accessory power supply ie window motors AC or w/e the alternator might not be keeping up causing the voltage drop.


----------



## bunkkaws (Feb 7, 2008)

HavokRuels said:


> This wiring has me on the verge of insanity. Does your relay box look like this? Spent 2 hours trying to sort it with nothing but epic failure.
> 
> Please help so I can just shove this thing back up and be done with it.
> 
> ...


 
They all go in junction boxes that are clipped on the top of the fuse box. Here is a pic I used to hook mine up. It's from a 94 though so it may not be the same. Also if you pulled the OEM Radio and ABS you might be missing a blue plug and green. 

I don't know all of them, but the the black set or the green are for heated seats, heated mirrors, etc. Blues are for VSS Sensor, so OEM Radio, Spoiler, Speedo (I think). Blacks not to sure about but I remember reading something about load reduction. 

The Yellow Plug you have is for the mirrors (I would verify this though on your setup, it is on mine), lookup which plug is the the heated seats using the A2 resource, trace it to the fusebox plug and put in the yellow with them.


----------



## bunkkaws (Feb 7, 2008)

Gentlemen! 

Was working under the car today and it looks like the tranny is missing a cover? It this normal? The oil pan is so close I don't know that a cover can even fit? Car ran like this for about 300 miles with no issues. 




























Also changed the water pump today and there was some nasty buildup?!?! Didn't smell like oil. Did a little research and found it could be from either mixed coolants or just lack of maintenance from the donor car the engine came from. 

Anyone seen this before? Its from a VR6. 










Thanks 

Steven


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## mooseinabox (Dec 5, 2011)

I'm in the market for a VR6, but my co-workers (we work at a VW specialists shop) and boss say that it will be the biggest mistake I can make in owning a car. Now, I know that maintenance is paramount, but they say even though Corrado's are terrible cars. 

I've done tons of research in the past year, and I feel like I could handle owning one.. but they just scared me out of it almost. 

Advice?


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## One_Off_Volk (Nov 30, 2011)

mooseinabox said:


> I'm in the market for a VR6, but my co-workers (we work at a VW specialists shop) and boss say that it will be the biggest mistake I can make in owning a car. Now, I know that maintenance is paramount, but they say even though Corrado's are terrible cars.
> 
> I've done tons of research in the past year, and I feel like I could handle owning one.. but they just scared me out of it almost.
> 
> Advice?


 
I say you should go ahead and do it.
It legally isn't that hard to do, just make sure you find one with very little issues and you should be set. Even if something does go wrong, you have the tools and knowledge of others and yourself to fix it. :thumbup:


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Has anyone ever experienced throttle cable slack with a 2.9l TB? Do I need to purchase a uk spec cable?










Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> Has anyone ever experienced throttle cable slack with a 2.9l TB? Do I need to purchase a uk spec cable?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


UK cable will be on the wrong side of the car...

I can double check the part numbers but IIRC cables are the same.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

TheBurninator said:


> UK cable will be on the wrong side of the car...
> 
> I can double check the part numbers but IIRC cables are the same.


Hmm maybe I'm crazy but that's how much slack I have with the pedal all the way up


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> Hmm maybe I'm crazy but that's how much slack I have with the pedal all the way up
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


Possibly try different routing :thumbup:


----------



## eyepoppet (May 2, 2011)

eyepoppet said:


> 90 g60
> Set my my new meter to mV and I have a bar at the bottom of the screen that shows current pulse.
> I am 100% sure that I have pulse from the ecu now.
> I am 100% sure that I have pulse from the Hall generator
> ...


lol went out to the garage today to find a puddle of oil under the car. looks like the tranny pissed it self.

I still cant figure out whats going on with this no spark nonsense. idk if im just not understanding something special about this ignition system. 
ECU pulse range in mV 400.00 - 425.00
Hall generator pulse range in mV 140.00-146.00
Black wire that sits on the positive side of the coil has .3 ohm and .5 Volts 
I have contunity and ground between ecu, TPS, Co2potentiometer, coolant temp sensor and hall generator through the brown white wire. There are no shorts in the 25 pin harness.
The coil pack is in spec. Idk if there is a way to bench test it? 
The only thing that does not seem normal is the temp of the coil pack. It feels like if you were to touch a light bulb that's been on for a while. now idk if that's because its just an old design or what. this is the oldest car i have owned. it's actually older than me :laugh: 
Any Ideas guys???


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Possibly try different routing :thumbup:


Can I adjust the dash pot on the TB? Also, I bought it from the uk, despite the auction saying corrado 2.9 could the Cale be different if it was from a passat?


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> Can I adjust the dash pot on the TB? Also, I bought it from the uk, despite the auction saying corrado 2.9 could the Cale be different if it was from a passat?
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


I had a passat cable in mine for awhile and worked fine, although I have an exgtremely custom setup. I am unsure if you can rotate the TB pulley, but was getting at possibly taking a few more turns in the cable to snug it up


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I had a passat cable in mine for awhile and worked fine, although I have an exgtremely custom setup. I am unsure if you can rotate the TB pulley, but was getting at possibly taking a few more turns in the cable to snug it up


Fixed position. My next day off I will mess with it.


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> Fixed position. My next day off I will mess with it.
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


werd :beer:

I am installing a brand spanking new one and will letcha know what I find :thumbup:


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

HavokRuels said:


> Fixed position. My next day off I will mess with it.
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


It seem your missing metal clip to hold the cable end to the plastic guide.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

chc-rado said:


> It seem your missing metal clip to hold the cable end to the plastic guide.


I think he was just depicting that the end was too long to secure


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

chc-rado said:


> It seem your missing metal clip to hold the cable end to the plastic guide.


That clip does not fit into the 2.9TB totally different mounting styles, it sits into an orbital socket unlike the 2.8 version


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> That clip does not fit into the 2.9TB totally different mounting styles, it sits into an orbital socket unlike the 2.8 version
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


Something is up, no differences in the cable ends. It should fit better than that though, and where is the cable clip?


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

DUBZAK said:


> Something is up, no differences in the cable ends. It should fit better than that though, and where is the cable clip?


You are correct. Cable clips in with that cable clip. Something is not kosher here. 

2.9l manifold and TB cable bracket that came with it and the cable does not line up with tb.









Here is a pic of the cable clipped in with pedal all the way up









My best guess at this point is no guess, I'm going to have to remove the TB and check the part number before I start making more assumptions. 

Here is the original TB and the part numbers are ****ed on it. This is everything that is stamped for part numbers which match nothing: B5 096 021 061 H


























Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Problem solved.... The TB I removed is in fact a true ABV TB. It has dual springs unlike the one I installed which is just a euro 2.8l TB. Now this means I've got to ****ing refinish this one and put it back on :facepalm:


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

So I recently did a 5 lug swap on my 90 G60. I used MK3 VR knuckles, control arms, tie rods, drive shafts, ball joints and brakes. I'm having an issue with my left drive shaft inner joint falling apart. It seems like the joint goes in too far into the axle flange and then falls apart. Are VR and G60 flanges different? Was wondering if anyone has ever seen this before? Did I miss something for the swap? I've tried 3 different axles, are they just total garbage? The last one didn't even get driven on, I rotated the axle as I was tightening up all the bolts and fell apart. Pretty pissed and confused...:banghead:


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

twoteks said:


> So I recently did a 5 lug swap on my 90 G60. I used MK3 VR knuckles, control arms, tie rods, drive shafts, ball joints and brakes. I'm having an issue with my left drive shaft inner joint falling apart. It seems like the joint goes in too far into the axle flange and then falls apart. Are VR and G60 flanges different? Was wondering if anyone has ever seen this before? Did I miss something for the swap? I've tried 3 different axles, are they just total garbage? The last one didn't even get driven on, I rotated the axle as I was tightening up all the bolts and fell apart. Pretty pissed and confused...:banghead:


Inner CV is identical


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## bunkkaws (Feb 7, 2008)

bunkkaws said:


> Gentlemen!
> 
> Was working under the car today and it looks like the tranny is missing a cover? It this normal? The oil pan is so close I don't know that a cover can even fit? Car ran like this for about 300 miles with no issues.
> 
> ...



Bump. Anyone? Thanks


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

bunkkaws said:


> Bump. Anyone? Thanks


Yes there is a dust shield for that and you should source one since it keeps debris/fluid/water from getting into the bell housing and compromises your clutch. 

The sludge on the water pump is in fact mixed coolant, old coolant and/or a combination of both. That block should be flushed for good measure. Not to mention it looks like its been poorly maintained for years.


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## bunkkaws (Feb 7, 2008)

HavokRuels said:


> Yes there is a dust shield for that and you should source one since it keeps debris/fluid/water from getting into the bell housing and compromises your clutch.
> 
> The sludge on the water pump is in fact mixed coolant, old coolant and/or a combination of both. That block should be flushed for good measure. Not to mention it looks like its been poorly maintained for years.
> 
> ...


Thank you sir!

I just needed the keyword for that missing piece. I think I found it, Part # 02A 301 157C. I won't drive it in the rain until it's sourced. 

As for the engine I flushed the hell out of it for about 20 minutes. That block better be good I paid good $$$ to a popular VW / Audi shop here in Lorton VA to source and swap that in :facepalm:


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

bunkkaws said:


> Thank you sir!
> 
> I just needed the keyword for that missing piece. I think I found it, Part # 02A 301 157C. I won't drive it in the rain until it's sourced.
> 
> As for the engine I flushed the hell out of it for about 20 minutes. That block better be good I paid good $$$ to a popular VW / Audi shop here in Lorton VA to source and swap that in :facepalm:


It will be fine as long as you flushed it. Use the proper coolant and if it's a concentrate, dilute it with distiller water which can be had for like 2 bucks a gallon at cvs or the like. That will prevent any corrosive compounds from contributing to corroding ferrous metals internally (outer cylinder walls)


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> It will be fine as long as you flushed it. Use the proper coolant and if it's a concentrate, dilute it with distiller water which can be had for like 2 bucks a gallon at cvs or the like. That will prevent any corrosive compounds from contributing to corroding ferrous metals internally (outer cylinder walls)
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


This^

I actually used drano in my friend's Scirocco to clean the sludge from a coolant mix, worked pretty well :thumbup:


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> This^
> 
> I actually used drano in my friend's Scirocco :


haha that's funny but yet smart!


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> haha that's funny but yet smart!
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## VLub13 (Nov 28, 2002)

*Corrado running poorly*

*Problem*:
Will be driving like normal then it will surge forth very hard for a second, sporadically, can happen 5 times in a 15 minute drive or not at all on a 30 minute drive. Also will sporadically die at any rpm while driving. It also feels like it doesn't have the power it once did at all times, just a bit, but it's there, like it's weighed down kind of thing.

*Things I have tried*:
New fuel filter
New fuel pump relay
Cleaned throttle body

*Personal mechanic ability*:
Scale of 1-10, I'd be a 3.5. I change my own oil, do bolt on mods and can turn wrenches, not very savvy. However with proper DIY's I have done many things I thought I couldn't over the years.

*Specs from previous owner*:
Sit's in my garage the majority of the time, driven on average a max of 25 miles a month.
1992 VR6(not SLC) 103,000 miles
Engine was replaced with one from a 97 GLX
High compression head gasket 10.6:1
TT chip
Bosal Brospeed ceramic coated header
TT s/s 2.25" catback exhaust with Borla

What are some other things that I should be checking? Any help would be greatly appreciated as I recently lost my job and this is now my only personal vehicle, so not much $ to take to the shop.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

VLub13 said:


> *Problem*:
> Will be driving like normal then it will surge forth very hard for a second, sporadically, can happen 5 times in a 15 minute drive or not at all on a 30 minute drive. Also will sporadically die at any rpm while driving. It also feels like it doesn't have the power it once did at all times, just a bit, but it's there, like it's weighed down kind of thing.
> 
> *Things I have tried*:
> ...


When Fueling is of concern, by what you have already said, do the entire system, not just one or two things, I would pull the injectors and see if they are spraying. This can be dangerous, be very careful, but I have pulled the entire rail and turned over a car to verify spray patterns.

You should also check the timing with a light :thumbup:


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

VLub13 said:


> *Problem*:
> Will be driving like normal then it will surge forth very hard for a second, sporadically, can happen 5 times in a 15 minute drive or not at all on a 30 minute drive. Also will sporadically die at any rpm while driving. It also feels like it doesn't have the power it once did at all times, just a bit, but it's there, like it's weighed down kind
> TT chip
> 
> ...


----------



## VLub13 (Nov 28, 2002)

Thanks for the replies
"I would pull the injectors and see if they are spraying. This can be dangerous, be very careful, but I have pulled the entire rail and turned over a car to verify spray patterns."

"just the with 92 dizzy"

"Does this happen under 1/4 tank of fuel" Fuel gauge is broken, so not sure. I typically put $10 worth of gas in it every 4th or 5th time I drive it. If this was the issue could I troubleshoot it by making sure it is topped off, then driving for a prolonged period? If no issues then it points to fuel pump, correct?

Idle is smooth and steady

"When last time plug wires been replace?" No idea, had the car for a few years but rarely driven upto now.

"It be nice to check for any fault codes 1st with vag-com" OBD-1 so it doesn't store codes


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

VLub13 said:


> Thanks for the replies
> "I would pull the injectors and see if they are spraying. This can be dangerous, be very careful, but I have pulled the entire rail and turned over a car to verify spray patterns."
> 
> "just the with 92 dizzy"
> ...


Fuel starvation only happens under 1/4 tank and when acceleration or corning. I would fill the tank up, and see or feel the problem goes away. You need new fuel pump and sender unit too. 

Yes your vr6 can store fault memery codes, OBD-I port is under the shift boot cover, it grey and white, you need the double 2 pin connector to connect to vag-com. I would start there before tearing down the intake to check injectors. Start simply task 1st. Save your funds for maintance items for future expense.


----------



## VLub13 (Nov 28, 2002)

"Fuel starvation only happens under 1/4 tank and when acceleration or corning." Dies at anytime, even when coasting in neutral, I'll fill it and take it for a good ride anyway, just incase.

"Yes your vr6 can store fault memery codes, OBD-I port is under the shift boot cover"
Awesome, I was unaware that it stored codes unless the CEL was on.

Many thanks!


----------



## corrado-correr (Jul 8, 2004)

what do you guys think about me selling my mk5 and buying a second corrado as a daily? 

the second corrado would have to do winter duty, whcih means lots of salt exposure here in michigan. :snowcool:

sane or insane?


----------



## captain aimless (Sep 24, 2009)

So i just changed the motor and trans in a buddies corrado last week and after getting it together realized the clutch was frozen to the pressure plate so we popped the trans out and changed the clutch. After getting it all back together we cant get it to bleed. We changed the slave cylinder from the old motor and trans because it was working when it came out but this didnt help.
If anybody has any insight into the problem it would be much appreciated 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

corrado-correr said:


> what do you guys think about me selling my mk5 and buying a second corrado as a daily?
> 
> the second corrado would have to do winter duty, whcih means lots of salt exposure here in michigan. :snowcool:
> 
> sane or insane?


Insane. Driving 2nd corrado as a daily and exposed to snow and salt. :screwyon't ruin it, save it. I would drive mk5 as a winter daily than put an other corrado thru crappy northern roads and environment. Get a old Audi quattro as winter-daily if you get rid of mk5. :thumbup:


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

eurobred said:


> so Coolant isnt circulating through my system, since i check it by removing the reservoir cap while the car was on and i saw no coolant returning back into it...
> 
> i was thinking water pump, but doesnt the water pump usually make noises when its going out due to the uneven fins?
> could there be a possibility that it IS going out and a piece of it is lodged in one of my hoses?
> ...





eyepoppet said:


> sounds like the thermostat is stuck closed.





eurobred said:


> but my fan doesnt even come on so im thinking its the thermostat... doesnt the fan come on when the thermostat opens?






vwraaner said:


> You do have a big point there! If the radiator fan switch never see any uprise in temperature it will not turn the fan on. And since the radiator aint hot then the thermostat must be stuck closed and holding back the coolant...



ok guys, just replaced my thermostat. I installed a 180* degree, and my car is still running HOT without the fan coming on. upper radiator hose gets hot, but the lower hose stays cold...

i also do not see any coolant coming back up through the reservoir return line (small hose)
im really hoping its not the water pump, funds are tight right now...
i hear no noise from the water pump either...

ANY ideas?


----------



## corrado-correr (Jul 8, 2004)

eurobred said:


> ok guys, just replaced my thermostat. I installed a 180* degree, and my car is still running HOT without the fan coming on. upper radiator hose gets hot, but the lower hose stays cold...
> 
> i also do not see any coolant coming back up through the reservoir return line (small hose)
> im really hoping its not the water pump, funds are tight right now...
> ...


coming into the diagnosis late in the game, but do you also have a low temp fan switch?


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

eurobred said:


> ok guys, just replaced my thermostat. I installed a 180* degree, and my car is still running HOT without the fan coming on. upper radiator hose gets hot, but the lower hose stays cold...
> 
> i also do not see any coolant coming back up through the reservoir return line (small hose)
> im really hoping its not the water pump, funds are tight right now...
> ...



Most likely water pump dong. Do you get flow from over flow hose at coolant bottle when you give it 2k response.


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

corrado-correr said:


> coming into the diagnosis late in the game, but do you also have a low temp fan switch?


not sure, i remember when things were working, the fan would kick on when things got to about 215* degrees. im guessing it would be the high speed mode cuz it would be loud.




chc-rado said:


> Most likely water pump dong. Do you get flow from over flow hose at coolant bottle when you give it 2k response.


i dont see anything coming from the return line back into the reservoir if thats what you're asking.

upper radiator hose gets hot while lower stays cold


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

eurobred said:


> not sure, i remember when things were working, the fan would kick on when things got to about 215* degrees. im guessing it would be the high speed mode cuz it would be loud.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Si pinche Che. Your coolant pump went south! :sly:


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

chc-rado said:


> Si pinche Che. Your coolant pump went south! :sly:


shaatttttt.....
alright well i suppose that explains it. dammit! lol.
i just ordered another one off the web with a 5 year warranty for $40.
METAL impeller of course :banghead:

thanks folks.


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

eurobred said:


> shaatttttt.....
> alright well i suppose that explains it. dammit! lol.
> i just ordered another one off the web with a 5 year warranty for $40.
> METAL impeller of course :banghead:
> ...


I'm not sure what your coolant condition, a good flush would be good once you replace the pump, also use disstill water. While your there, drive belt replacement too. How your tensioner? just make sure you loosen rear engine mount too, so you won't bend the rear mount bolt. Just saying, seen it happen.


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

chc-rado said:


> I'm not sure what your coolant condition, a good flush would be good once you replace the pump, also use disstill water. While your there, drive belt replacement too. How your tensioner? just make sure you loosen rear engine mount too, so you won't bend the rear mount bolt. Just saying, seen it happen.


tensioner is good, will do, thanks for the info :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

captain aimless said:


> So i just changed the motor and trans in a buddies corrado last week and after getting it together realized the clutch was frozen to the pressure plate so we popped the trans out and changed the clutch. After getting it all back together we cant get it to bleed. We changed the slave cylinder from the old motor and trans because it was working when it came out but this didnt help.
> If anybody has any insight into the problem it would be much appreciated
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


Two things, bleed the brakes n the proper sequence, and if still no pressure from the slave, pressure bleed it at the brake MC :thumbup:


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## dubberscrubber (Feb 2, 2008)

*Sadface*

Made a thread for this without scrolling down to see this one... woops!

Well here's the deal. I had a g60 and sold it without the nice 4 lug wheels I had on it. Soo I just picked up an slc and found out the hard way that they are all 5 lug. damndamndamn.

So I know this thread has probably popped up here and there, but can anyone give me a parts list or point me in the right direction as to what all I'll need for a 4 lug swap and where/if I can pick it up new anywhere?

I'm not completely sure of g60 and slc's hub compatability. I mean it has to have been done. And I'm sure it wasn't retarded expensive either. Not looking for anything fancy. Just some factory vw parts to get my shiny wheels on. Thanks for your help!


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

dubberscrubber said:


> Made a thread for this without scrolling down to see this one... woops!
> 
> Well here's the deal. I had a g60 and sold it without the nice 4 lug wheels I had on it. Soo I just picked up an slc and found out the hard way that they are all 5 lug. damndamndamn.
> 
> ...


Convert a 5lug to 4 lug? Honestly, do not take this the wrong way but that's one of the stupidest things I've ever heard on this forum. Have the wheels re-drilled. That's like wanting to convert an slc to a g60, it's just not right.

Again no offense, i'm sure your a smart guy and this is a momentary lapse of reason.


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

HavokRuels said:


> Convert a 5lug to 4 lug? Honestly, do not take this the wrong way but that's one of the stupidest things I've ever heard on this forum. Have the wheels re-drilled. That's like wanting to convert an slc to a g60, it's just not right.
> 
> Again no offense, i'm sure your a smart guy and this is a momentary lapse of reason.
> 
> ...


Take it easy sir, he just having drunk blonde moment, if not, then you go Ike on him, aka pimp smack that biotch! :laugh:


----------



## dubberscrubber (Feb 2, 2008)

Ok ok ok. Wheels being redrilled could be a VERY good idea THANK YOU. BUT anyone know where I could get it done? Should I just take em to a machine shop? They have centercaps so the redrills would be all hidden. Anyone have personal experience with getting wheels redrilled???


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

chc-rado said:


> Take it easy sir, he just having drunk blonde moment, if not, then you go Ike on him, aka pimp smack that biotch! :laugh:


C'mon that was the softest landing anyone could ask for. :laugh:





dubberscrubber said:


> Ok ok ok. Wheels being redrilled could be a VERY good idea THANK YOU. BUT anyone know where I could get it done? Should I just take em to a machine shop? They have centercaps so the redrills would be all hidden. Anyone have personal experience with getting wheels redrilled???


Personally I'm not sure but they do fill the old holes. I'm sure google would work or someone here will chime in. :beer:


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## corrado713 (Jul 11, 2012)

*spoiler!?*

alright guys my spoiler keeps blowing fuses. i know that it needs to be serviced im just sure what exactly to do and how to go about it??

thanks!


----------



## krager54 (Aug 7, 2011)

corrado713 said:


> alright guys my spoiler keeps blowing fuses. i know that it needs to be serviced im just sure what exactly to do and how to go about it??
> 
> thanks!


The motor probably needs to be cleaned up and greased.


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

corrado713 said:


> alright guys my spoiler keeps blowing fuses. i know that it needs to be serviced im just sure what exactly to do and how to go about it??
> 
> thanks!


There DIY thread on this to clean and lubing it. Do the search on it. Also there a manual override level in rear hatch to raise and lower it too. GL and :beer:


----------



## denzil_wasson (Jun 3, 2009)

*A pillar trim clips*

Hi experts - 93 slc OEM +. 
I have had it for about three years, 
have bentley , 
did search, 
25 years of nothing but VAG 3 audis, 4 dubs over the years
not a mechanic but competent enough to do a rebuild

First post after 3 years of lurking (thanks to all - awesome information). :beer:

My question: Where can I get the plastic clips that hold on the A-pillar - cant find a part number or a source of info anywhere. Doing a euro belt swap and the A pillars I got don't have the trim clips (and the PO lost some that were in the car). I need about 8.

TIA


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

denzil_wasson said:


> Hi experts - 93 slc OEM +.
> I have had it for about three years,
> have bentley ,
> did search,
> ...


Dealership


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

denzil_wasson said:


> Hi experts - 93 slc OEM +.
> I have had it for about three years,
> have bentley ,
> did search,
> ...


I can hook you up with part number today. And if they are out of stock I have saved all the ones off the corrados I have parted.


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Part number 357-867-646-9b9 we show some still left in wear house.


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

jettalvr41 said:


> Part number 357-867-646-9b9 we show some still left in wear house.


Up to mk4 golfs uses those clips on the rear hatch, that part still in circulation.


----------



## eyepoppet (May 2, 2011)

G60 water pump.
What could I use to repair striped female threads. where you bolt on the thermostat housing. I tried chasing it with a self tapping screw but that didnt work. something that's coolant friendly. just seems like a really dumb reason to buy a new water pump.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

eyepoppet said:


> G60 water pump.
> What could I use to repair striped female threads. where you bolt on the thermostat housing. I tried chasing it with a self tapping screw but that didnt work. something that's coolant friendly. just seems like a really dumb reason to buy a new water pump.


Tap & chase with the next size up bolt or use a helicoil


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

denzil_wasson said:


> Hi experts - 93 slc OEM +.
> I have had it for about three years,
> have bentley ,
> did search,
> ...



Will (Zak) or I can supply both the clips and solid (mint) pillars


----------



## onavarro8 (Oct 3, 2006)

Ok..question for the pros:

I have a hose leaking power steering fluid (this is a hose next to the oil filter). How hard is it to change this hose and where can I find a new one? If anybody knows the part number?

Also my rado has had a high idle recently, could this leak have anything to do with it? I read somewhere that the pressure from the power steering could affect idle but not sure exactly why or how that works.

Thanks!!


----------



## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

So I have a 93 Corrado 12v. Its purging all the coolant out of the overflow bottle as soon as I shut the engine off. When its at running temp and with the engine running its fine but as soon as you shut it off the bottle starts puking coolant. Any Ideas? Coolant is only about 500 miles old, but it did overheat the night before(about 230*) because one of my fan wires shorted.

Any Ideas?
-Dave


----------



## onavarro8 (Oct 3, 2006)

02GTIFREESKIER said:


> So I have a 93 Corrado 12v. Its purging all the coolant out of the overflow bottle as soon as I shut the engine off. When its at running temp and with the engine running its fine but as soon as you shut it off the bottle starts puking coolant. Any Ideas? Coolant is only about 500 miles old, but it did overheat the night before(about 230*) because one of my fan wires shorted.
> 
> Any Ideas?
> -Dave


Do you have the old coolant cap or the newer blue one? If you have the black one you should try if the new one fixes the problem.


----------



## deemee (Aug 7, 2011)

What products/materials do you guys use to repair leather door cards? He leather is starting to peel off in some sections


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

02GTIFREESKIER said:


> So I have a 93 Corrado 12v. Its purging all the coolant out of the overflow bottle as soon as I shut the engine off. When its at running temp and with the engine running its fine but as soon as you shut it off the bottle starts puking coolant. Any Ideas? Coolant is only about 500 miles old, but it did overheat the night before(about 230*) because one of my fan wires shorted.
> 
> Any Ideas?
> -Dave


There could be several issues to look at.

1. Car can be over heating but not show while you are driving
2. Bad thermostat
3. Air pocket
4. Not enough coolant
5. Bad overflow cap

If you have a poorly pressurized system, it will lower the boiling point of your coolant so bad cap could be the culprit, now when you shut the car down, coolant will overflow because it's at a stand still. 


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

What kind of material should I use to replace the little rubber grommet/gasket in the bottom of my fuel pump assembly? Mine is totally deteriorated and my C cuts out around corners and I want it to stop.


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

1956dub said:


> What kind of material should I use to replace the little rubber grommet/gasket in the bottom of my fuel pump assembly? Mine is totally deteriorated and my C cuts out around corners and I want it to stop.


My mk1 did that around corners :laugh: only on right hand turns though. Very annoying. It wasent as bad when the tank was full and you didn't hit the corners hard. As far as the grommets try giving Napa a call or a similar store. How big is the grommet your looking for?


----------



## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

HavokRuels said:


> There could be several issues to look at.
> 
> 1. Car can be over heating but not show while you are driving
> 2. Bad thermostat
> ...


Im leaning towards cap. I think the overheat the night before may have weakened the relief or blown out a seal somewhere in the cap. Air pocket is likely to though.

And I do have the older style black cap so maybe its time to treat the old girl to a gift. Who knows maybe I'll even spoil her and do g12.

Thanks for the input guys.


----------



## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

eyepoppet said:


> G60 water pump.
> What could I use to repair striped female threads. where you bolt on the thermostat housing. I tried chasing it with a self tapping screw but that didnt work. something that's coolant friendly. just seems like a really dumb reason to buy a new water pump.


If you can find Keenserts in the right size they are great. Easier to install than a helicoil and they seem to be just as strong.


----------



## onavarro8 (Oct 3, 2006)

Haven't gotten a response to my post yet. This is the hose that is leaking (the one with the ripped rubber sleeve connected to the thin pipe): 











I want to know if one of these two hoses is the replacement and why there is such a huge difference in price? : 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-CORRADO-...1534860084663336011&pid=100015&prg=1017&rk=1&

or 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volkswagen-...its=Model:Corrado&hash=item27c79ff549&vxp=mtr


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

onavarro8 said:


> I want to know if one of these two hoses is the replacement and why there is such a huge difference in price? :
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-CORRADO-...1534860084663336011&pid=100015&prg=1017&rk=1&
> 
> or
> ...


Maybe cause one is a genuine VW part and the other an aftermarket replacement???


----------



## onavarro8 (Oct 3, 2006)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Maybe cause one is a genuine VW part and the other an aftermarket replacement???


They looked a little different so I wasn't even sure if they were the same. Is it really worth $150+ just to get oem, or do you think for something like this it wouldn't really matter?


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

onavarro8 said:


> Is it really worth $150+ just to get oem, or do you think for something like this it wouldn't really matter?


For most parts on a Corrado, yes. But in this case, I'd buy the cheap part.


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

g60301 said:


> My mk1 did that around corners :laugh: only on right hand turns though. Very annoying. It wasent as bad when the tank was full and you didn't hit the corners hard. As far as the grommets try giving Napa a call or a similar store. How big is the grommet your looking for?


Well I ended up going to the hardware store and bought a peice of sheet rubber (gas proof, supposedly but the original was clearly not gas proof). I cut the peice to roughly the size I needed and put it in. I do think this has fixed my corner problem. I drove it for a few miles and it's the first time I could go around a right hand corner with 1/4 tank of gas and goose it without choking out. FIXED!!

So, if your Corrado goes around right hand corners and cuts out when you are low on gas that's the problem. I found it quite simple, but if you aren't mechanically inclined, you will likely fail.


----------



## paulytits (Jun 13, 2007)

anyone know whats the deal with driver side door handles? Ive noticed germanautoparts hasn't had them in stock in forever it seems. are they NLA or something?


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

On a g60. The 2 relays mounted on the Rad fan. Whats a good spot to relocate?


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

1956dub said:


> Well I ended up going to the hardware store and bought a peice of sheet rubber (gas proof, supposedly but the original was clearly not gas proof). I cut the peice to roughly the size I needed and put it in. I do think this has fixed my corner problem. I drove it for a few miles and it's the first time I could go around a right hand corner with 1/4 tank of gas and goose it without choking out. FIXED!!
> 
> So, if your Corrado goes around right hand corners and cuts out when you are low on gas that's the problem. I found it quite simple, but if you aren't mechanically inclined, you will likely fail.


Cool beans! Glad you fixed it :thumbup:


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Found this end of a 2 wire harness today. Its located on the driver side behind the headlight. Noticed when I pulled the battery today. I beloved the wires are yellow and the other black. 










Anyone?


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

g60301 said:


> Found this end of a 2 wire harness today. Its located on the driver side behind the headlight. Noticed when I pulled the battery today. I beloved the wires are yellow and the other black.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks like side marker pigtail


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

^^^^ it seem you have e-codes. Look like it's parking light connector. That my guess.

You beat me to it. This :beer: for you!


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

chc-rado said:


> ^^^^ it seem you have e-codes. Look like it's parking light connector. That my guess.
> 
> You beat me to it. This :beer: for you!


I have my lights relayed for ecodes,however I have chessy projectors. Ill see I'd I can get a better pic of it tomorrow.


----------



## eurofreak41 (Jul 6, 2008)

First time posting in the Corrado forums. First off I'd like to say that I have searched the vortex with every keyword I can think of as well as google. I bought a Corrado with E codes and they don't really work. I have low beams. When I pull the stalk back the highs "seem" to come on but as soon as I let go of the stalk the go back to low. The inner lights are inop as well. They don't come on at all. The PO said they worked until he put in a euro stalk. I swapped that one out for a regular stock one. Any info/leads/wiring diagrams would be greatly appreciated. Thanks


----------



## eurofreak41 (Jul 6, 2008)

Oh I forgot to add the the highbeam light is always on, on the dash.


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

eurofreak41 said:


> The PO said they worked until he put in a euro stalk.


I was unaware the euro stalk was different, maybe for no cruise control?

Edit: It sounds like you need to check and see if the euro lights were installed properly and how they are wired. If they are not "relayed" I suggest you do so, there is a write up "somewhere" but I cannot find it.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Not sure that euro stalk has anything to do with anything, it just isn't wired for cruise control, that's the only difference.


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## eurofreak41 (Jul 6, 2008)

Yeah that's all it is, no cruise control. I was just relaying the info the PO gave me. Where can I find this write up? They are not hooked upto relays.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

eurofreak41 said:


> Yeah that's all it is, no cruise control. I was just relaying the info the PO gave me. Where can I find this write up? They are not hooked upto relays.


My euro lights are hooked directly to my factory harness and looped into my side markers


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

eurofreak41 said:


> Yeah that's all it is, no cruise control. I was just relaying the info the PO gave me. Where can I find this write up? They are not hooked upto relays.


This may help. http://www.corrado-club.ca/tech/eurolights.pdf


----------



## sanchez00 (May 10, 2012)

will a 90 vw corrado radiator support fit on a 93 corrado


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

sanchez00 said:


> will a 90 vw corrado radiator support fit on a 93 corrado


Vr6 radiator is longer


----------



## eurofreak41 (Jul 6, 2008)

1956dub said:


> This may help. http://www.corrado-club.ca/tech/eurolights.pdf


Awesome thanks. I'll check it out tomorrow and let ya know.


----------



## mk_ultra (Jan 31, 2009)

I'm sure there are going to be many factors to my question, and pardon my ignorance, but what sort of handling characteristics will a car experience if the ride height for the front is set higher than the rears? My question is focused on coilover suspension. Thanks in advance :beer:

Forgot the vehicle: Volkswagen Corrado SLC


----------



## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

Was there a huge difference in rain trays between g60 and VR6? I purchased a used set from the classifieds from a g60 and they are not even close to fitting my VR(about two inches short which is the difference between ooooooh and aaaaaah unfortunately). Didn't know that the ECU/raintray area ever changed.


----------



## dubberscrubber (Feb 2, 2008)

*omg an offset question*

Ok I had a g60 and now I own an slc. I have some 4x100 wheels getting redrilled to 5x100 right now. Now I'm just curious to the fact that I heard that slc's track in the front is different from g60's. Anyone know by how much? Are the rears any different? Just trying to get a rough idea of what spacers I'm gonna need.


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

02GTIFREESKIER said:


> Corrado: because I always wanted to get heckled by elitist pricks over the internet.


I was going to help you.....:facepalm:


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Just thought of this, when I removed my old coolant sensor housing from the VR I noticed the short bolt in the back was missing. No big deal, but when I installed my new one, I now know why, the rear bolt does not line up with the head. Wtf??


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## titosantana92 (Sep 11, 2004)

Ok. Come to find out my hesitation problems were from a parasitic drain. Took off the passenger side door panel and i found exposed regulator wire. Covered it up but it still happens. (specially when the car is wet) Anyone know of the hotspots of these drains in corrados are? I've checked both side doors and where the wires go into the car but found nothing. Please and thanks.


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

titosantana92 said:


> Ok. Come to find out my hesitation problems were from a parasitic drain. Took off the passenger side door panel and i found exposed regulator wire. Covered it up but it still happens. (specially when the car is wet) Anyone know of the hotspots of these drains in corrados are? I've checked both side doors and where the wires go into the car but found nothing. Please and thanks.


There 3 way to check parasitic drain. 

1st is put your dvm on amp(dc) in series. One lead on positive or negative terminal, then the other lead to same current to battery post, you should have under 30 milliamp. If higher than that, example: 450milliamp. You have drain. Make sure door is latch, door light switch in close position. Remove one fuse at time and anything change, and find out what circuit is on that fuse(bentley). 

2nd is easier, get a amp clamp and put it the battery ground cable or positive cable, still follow removing fuse to isolate the circuit.
3rd one is reading voltage drop on each fuse. Your dvm will be set on milli-volt dc setting, when every circuit is asleep, there zero voltage drop, if the circuit still awake, its going show higher voltage drop like .3 vd on a 15 amp fuse circuit. I like this procedure because your not disturbing the circuit, just checking the circuit when it should be asleep.


----------



## mk4jetta4 (Oct 7, 2007)

*Mk4 1.8t left axle problem*

Ok So the day my axle was clicking I was like no biggie I'll just get another one. Got it swapped new for old found out the new axle had a bend center shaft. Got another one and 35 mins of drive time after replacing it I broke the inner cv joint. Got another one again bend or messed up center shaft also returned that one went to a diff place to get another brand of axles. Put my new one in and 3 hours of drive time I exploded the inner cv joint. Any ideas on what's causing this? Old axle had no problem holding together only reason for change was outer cv started to click every once and a blue moon. :banghead: I'm sitting on 18" wheels year old coils that have 1.5-2" of threads left. New right axle (month ago). New control arms, replaced trans, just about everything was freshend up besides ball joints and tie rods and left axle.


----------



## eurofreak41 (Jul 6, 2008)

Okay so according to the wiring diagram from Canada club Corrado.... Or whatever it is I'm set up correctly. This is without relays. I will be doing the relay setup when I have more funds. I just need to pass inspection. Could it just be a simple bulb being out? Again the high beam light is always on. And I have no inner lights. I'm stumped.


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

What oil filter flange should I use for an AEB 1.8t swap? A regular 8v one does not seem to work.


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

turtledub said:


> What oil filter flange should I use for an AEB 1.8t swap? A regular 8v one does not seem to work.


Figured it out. I need a newer 8v cooler off a MKIII.


----------



## 02GTIFREESKIER (Oct 3, 2006)

JamesS said:


> I was going to help you.....:facepalm:


I'm sorry?


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

HavokRuels said:


> Just thought of this, when I removed my old coolant sensor housing from the VR I noticed the short bolt in the back was missing. No big deal, but when I installed my new one, I now know why, the rear bolt does not line up with the head. Wtf??
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad



Bump for the above and need help identifying the las two wires in the engine bay that I've ignored. Check diagram.











Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## dubberscrubber (Feb 2, 2008)

dubberscrubber said:


> Ok I had a g60 and now I own an slc. I have some 4x100 wheels getting redrilled to 5x100 right now. Now I'm just curious to the fact that I heard that slc's track in the front is different from g60's. Anyone know by how much? Are the rears any different? Just trying to get a rough idea of what spacers I'm gonna need.


:wave:


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

HavokRuels said:


> Bump for the above and need help identifying the las two wires in the engine bay that I've ignored. Check diagram.
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


That picture sucks moneyballlz. Real picture in engine bay, also what color code are wires? From that picture, it could be N80-purge valve. Maybe the other could be rear knock sensor or the breather heater element connector? Just a guess from 1st grade drawing. :screwy:


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

chc-rado said:


> That picture sucks moneyballlz. Real picture in engine bay, also what color code are wires? From that picture, it could be N80-purge valve. Maybe the other could be rear knock sensor or the breather heater element connector? Just a guess from 1st grade drawing. :screwy:


1st off, I ****ed up my "1st grade drawing" one is rear knock and other is o2, that's my bad.

2nd off that diagram is better than any picture, as anyone who is knowledgeable with the ECM wiring would know that only 5 connectors (as pictured) come off of the ECM harness on that side of the car

3rd and last, I'll just figure it out myself, I'm just one lazy SOB and like always, I usually answer my own questions.

Oh and yep one is the n80 purge! Thanks! :beer:


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## Jonys (Mar 8, 2010)

*Radomeister proyect*

Friends.

Greetings from Guatemala.

I'm doing a Corrado SLC with 1.8BT 4motion swap (+ / - 400 whps) and I bought a kit like this:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...ide/ES1905530/

My question is: what experiences have had or heard about the combination of power and air ride? ... how safe is this type of suspension in a car for everyday, 4to. mile and eventually circuit?



Thanks for your answers.


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

HavokRuels said:


> 1st off, I ****ed up my "1st grade drawing" one is rear knock and other is o2, that's my bad.
> 
> 2nd off that diagram is better than any picture, as anyone who is knowledgeable with the ECM wiring would know that only 5 connectors (as pictured) come off of the ECM harness on that side of the car
> 
> ...


Trust me. You deserve a :beer: maybe :beer::beer: for being lazy bastard and answering your own question. :laugh: working on these products can get tiring. Sometime i rather have somebody else do the work for me if I can pay them in :beer: I guess that greedy bastard, I do the work and research and drink all the :beer: for me. :laugh: 

At least I was on the money matching the connector to drawing and responding:thumbup: for me!


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

^^^^ spell check. That why I'm a greedy bastard.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

chc-rado said:


> Trust me. You deserve a :beer: maybe :beer::beer: for being lazy bastard and answering your own question. :laugh: working on these products can get tiring. Sometime i rather have somebody else do the work for me if I can pay them in :beer: I guess that greedy bastard, I do the work and research and drink all the :beer: for me. :laugh:
> 
> At least I was on the money matching the connector to drawing and responding:thumbup: for me!


Lol I looked at those wires a dozen times, took a dozen pics of the car but never bothered to take a pic of them. The n80 might have been my slow drain as the pigtail was missing and the wires just resting on the chassis. One mystery down and one to go. Somedays with this car I wish I was still a drinker but events in my past quickly remind me of why I am coming up on four years clean! :laugh:

Now I must identify that last wire to complete the torturous overhaul of all the wiring I did! :facepalm:


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## mattsgota325i (Mar 2, 2006)

recently did my slave and replaced the end fitting on the hard line.. when i bleed the slave it flows out smooth with no bubbles.. and when you tighten it and push the clutch it builds pressure.. but if i gently rest my foot on the clutch it falls to the floor.. there is no leaks on anything i just recently did.. everything is completely dry.. fluid in the reservoir is above the max line though cause i filled it when i was bleeding it.. and not leaking out.. (its been weeks and it stayed the same.. i marked it) is there anything anyone could think of that would cause this issue? does anyone know the effects of having more fluid in the reservoir then the max line?


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

mattsgota325i said:


> recently did my slave and replaced the end fitting on the hard line.. when i bleed the slave it flows out smooth with no bubbles.. and when you tighten it and push the clutch it builds pressure.. but if i gently rest my foot on the clutch it flash to the floor.. there is no leaks on anything i just recently did.. everything is completely dry.. fluid in the reservoir is above the max line though cause i filled it when i was bleeding it.. and not leaking out.. (its been weeks and it stayed the same.. i marked it) is there anything anyone could think of that would cause this issue? does anyone know the effects of having more fluid in the reservoir then the max line?


Seeing you have 325i in user name. This retain how bimmer bleed the slave cylinder. Just follow these direction. 1st of all, air is lighter than brake fluid. Brake fluid want to go down and air want to escape upward. If your getting the point. Now your going help the air escape(bleed) from system. 

Get a clean oil pump can, put brake fluid in it, attach a rubber hose to it, now attach the hose to the slave cylinder bleeder screw, open the bleeder screw, and pump the the can. This will push the fluid upward and (help) push any blockage of air in the system. Once you don't see any bubbles in brake reservoir. Your bleeding is done. 

If still having issue still after bleeding, you might have clutch master cylinder failing.


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## mattsgota325i (Mar 2, 2006)

this is for my corrado.. the reason im in the corrado vw forums lol its a 93 slc guess i should have mentioned that


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

mattsgota325i said:


> this is for my corrado.. the reason im in the corrado vw forums lol its a 93 slc guess i should have mentioned that


I know you were relating this to your corrado. My bad. I work on bimmer at one time, that was one way of bleeding the slave cylinder rather than pressure bleeding from top or pumping the pedal method or putting vacuum on hydraulic system(that an other method too) I was relating 325i in your user name as relationship how an other way to bleed your slave cylinder.(BMW style)


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## mattsgota325i (Mar 2, 2006)

chc-rado said:


> I know you were relating this to your corrado. My bad. I work on bimmer at one time, that was one way of bleeding the slave cylinder rather than pressure bleeding from top or pumping the pedal method or putting vacuum on hydraulic system(that an other method too) I was relating 325i in your user name as relationship how an other way to bleed your slave cylinder.(BMW style)


haha i got ya ill have to give that a go in the morning. appreciate the help.


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

Called "pressure bleeding" and u missed one thing: CAP OFF MS when doing this


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## mattsgota325i (Mar 2, 2006)

no luck.. ended up pumping fluid up intill my reservoir was was about to flow over... im thinkin maybe i got a faulty slave cylinder from german auto parts.. maybe a seal on the inside or something is ****ed up..


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## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

mattsgota325i said:


> no luck.. ended up pumping fluid up intill my reservoir was was about to flow over... im thinkin maybe i got a faulty slave cylinder from german auto parts.. maybe a seal on the inside or something is ****ed up..


Did you replace the clutch master cylinder? When I replaced my clutch slave, I also had to change the clutch master for everything to work properly. If one is bad, the other is likely on it's way out.


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## krager54 (Aug 7, 2011)

mattsgota325i said:


> no luck.. ended up pumping fluid up intill my reservoir was was about to flow over... im thinkin maybe i got a faulty slave cylinder from german auto parts.. maybe a seal on the inside or something is ****ed up..


You need to replace the clutch master as well.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Finally a real pic of my mystery wire.

Green and red with blue stripe with green pigtail










Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## mattsgota325i (Mar 2, 2006)

krager54 said:


> You need to replace the clutch master as well.


i dont think its my master.. my clutch worked fine intill my slave went.. when i replaced it.. it works again but just goes soft if you rest your foot on it instead of push it in..


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## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

mattsgota325i said:


> i dont think its my master.. my clutch worked fine intill my slave went.. when i replaced it.. it works again but just goes soft if you rest your foot on it instead of push it in..


Yep, mine did the same thing. Master was fine, slave went, replaced slave, master went. I think that happens because the seals are tired and there is a new pressure difference and it causes the seals to fail. Just my theory though.


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## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

And now a question of my own. So I am doing my cooling system today and I've gotten as far as removing the front end to where just the radiator and condenser are exposed. I want to remove my radiator. Do I have to discharge my AC? 

I've heard you can swing the condenser out of the way for access to the coolant pipe (crack pipe) without dishcarging the AC. I personally don't see how this is possible since it appears there are hard lines on both sides of the condenser. Has anybody personally done this?

TIA


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## Jonys (Mar 8, 2010)

Jonys said:


> Friends.
> 
> Greetings from Guatemala.
> 
> ...


:wave:

I can say bump? :what:


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

Jonys said:


> :wave:
> 
> I can say bump? :what:


I'm sure it can be safe if properly executed. I have NO experience with air ride, and I don't really like it. OEM suspension would be much better. Usually if you have to ask questions about this type of very difficult work, you shouldn't do it.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Jonys said:


> :wave:
> 
> I can say bump? :what:





1956dub said:


> I'm sure it can be safe if properly executed. I have NO experience with air ride, and I don't really like it. OEM suspension would be much better. Usually if you have to ask questions about this type of very difficult work, you shouldn't do it.


Air on a car you are going to track? bad idea! Expensive, heavier, problematic under a high stress environment, when I see the MKIV R32 guys doi ti, I do one of these :facepalm:


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## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

1956dub said:


> And now a question of my own. So I am doing my cooling system today and I've gotten as far as removing the front end to where just the radiator and condenser are exposed. I want to remove my radiator. Do I have to discharge my AC?
> 
> I've heard you can swing the condenser out of the way for access to the coolant pipe (crack pipe) without dishcarging the AC. I personally don't see how this is possible since it appears there are hard lines on both sides of the condenser. Has anybody personally done this?
> 
> TIA


It appears it doesn't actually swing out of the way, but comes forward a few inches to give room for the radiator to slide up and out of the car. Now if I can get the clamps off the hoses since they are clocked in the absolutely WORST position. FUN.

Edit: I realize I replied to myself here, but hey it's the Corrado forum anyway.


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## mattsgota325i (Mar 2, 2006)

1956dub said:


> Yep, mine did the same thing. Master was fine, slave went, replaced slave, master went. I think that happens because the seals are tired and there is a new pressure difference and it causes the seals to fail. Just my theory though.


damnnnnnnnnnnnnn didnt want to hear that.. guess ill replace the master. 
thanks for all the help from everyone. ill let ya know how it goes


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## eurofreak41 (Jul 6, 2008)

eurofreak41 said:


> Okay so according to the wiring diagram from Canada club Corrado.... Or whatever it is I'm set up correctly. This is without relays. I will be doing the relay setup when I have more funds. I just need to pass inspection. Could it just be a simple bulb being out? Again the high beam light is always on. And I have no inner lights. I'm stumped.


Bump


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## sydg60in (Jun 9, 2007)

*g60 idle issue*

I just did a new timing belt and tensioner the car was out of time so that is all back in order now. The car runs very good but i have a high idle at about 1,500 to 2,000 rpm and i cant get it to come down any. The set screw on intake is all the way counter clock wise if i turn it clock wise idle goes up more. The car still has isv looking for some suggestions.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

sydg60in said:


> I just did a new timing belt and tensioner the car was out of time so that is all back in order now. The car runs very good but i have a high idle at about 1,500 to 2,000 rpm and i cant get it to come down any. The set screw on intake is all the way counter clock wise if i turn it clock wise idle goes up more. The car still has isv looking for some suggestions.


Sure it's not still out of time? 


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

HavokRuels said:


> Finally a real pic of my mystery wire.
> 
> Green and red with blue stripe with green pigtail
> 
> ...


I still say N80 valve. Do you still have a purge valve and canister attach to evap system?


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## CAH8 (Dec 22, 2011)

Does the clutch on a VR6 corrado feel the same as a G60 clutch from the driving perspective. Because i have driven a g60 and the clutch was grabs right off the floor, is a vr6 the same


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

CAH8 said:


> Does the clutch on a VR6 corrado feel the same as a G60 clutch from the driving perspective. Because i have driven a g60 and the clutch was grabs right off the floor, is a vr6 the same


Should have same feel if it new stock feel. Different pressure plates, clutch disc will alter the feel, also a worn clutch system make how the pedal feel too. If it too stiff, mostly likely clutch is worn out, putting more pressure on pressure plate to engage-disengage .


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

chc-rado said:


> I still say N80 valve. Do you still have a purge valve and canister attach to evap system?


Hmmm then wtf are the wires with the missing connector. Time to take another pic. Lol


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> Finally a real pic of my mystery wire.
> 
> Green and red with blue stripe with green pigtail
> 
> ...


Purge Valve For Sure. Only one with a Green Connector located by the MAF Harness.


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## JJEETTAA (Aug 15, 2012)

*need help desperately!*

hi guys i own a jetta mk4 1.8t wolfsburg edition, and im having problems starting it, when i start it it always starts but then it dies after 2 seconds (no immo light only when i open the switch and then reads the key and dissapears) so after a few tries the battery starts getting low and it cranks really slow and thats when it starts then i can drive it with no other problems, i've changed: crank sensor, cam sensor,fuel filter, ecu, battery cables, fuel pump relay, checked all my fuses relays are good too, fuel pressure good, i have spark, spark plugs good, no vacuum or boost leaks, no check engine light, ive tried getting it scanned but theres no communication with the ecu, and honestly i dont know what else to do to it :facepalm: , any help will be appreciated:


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

JJEETTAA said:


> hi guys i own a jetta mk4 1.8t wolfsburg edition, and im having problems starting it, when i start it it always starts but then it dies after 2 seconds (no immo light only when i open the switch and then reads the key and dissapears) so after a few tries the battery starts getting low and it cranks really slow and thats when it starts then i can drive it with no other problems, i've changed: crank sensor, cam sensor,fuel filter, ecu, battery cables, fuel pump relay, checked all my fuses relays are good too, fuel pressure good, i have spark, spark plugs good, no vacuum or boost leaks, no check engine light, ive tried getting it scanned but theres no communication with the ecu, and honestly i dont know what else to do to it :facepalm: , any help will be appreciated:


Sorry, but if you've replaced all that stuff, and cannot find the problem, you need a professional. 

Not only that but you need glasses. This is the CORRADO forum, the MK4 forum and 1.8T Forums are HERE and HERE


----------



## dfera (Mar 6, 2006)

*Using LED to blink engine codes??*

Trying to get an answer to this. I have been trying to get my LED to blink engine codes, but everything I try doesn't seem to be working. The LED works it just stays lit. My Corrado is a 93 without a check engine light; I just have the Brake and ABS light. I've tried using a jumper in place of the fuel pump relay for 4-5 seconds, and also tried to jumper the white and black plugs under the shift boot. From what I'm understanding now though is maybe the connections under the shift boot are for cars with a check engine light or if you have use for the VAG 1551 tester?

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...one-post-up-how-to-hook-up-LED-to-blink-codes
Here is a link I tried to start back up, but hadn't gotten any updates and the links for the pictures in the thread are dead so it's harder for me to understand what people did previously to get this to work.










Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Dom


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Blink Systems are not present on your 93, you need the Side by Side OBD1 Connector for VAG COM .


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Ok, here are those two ****ing mystery wires. I'm currently searching my bentley. They are on the passenger side and are part of the engine control harness.










Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## sydg60in (Jun 9, 2007)

HavokRuels said:


> Sure it's not still out of time?
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


yea it is def in time made sure of it about five times over spent a few hrs making sure it had a high idle before new stuff but it is higher now found a vac leak today fixed it but no luck with idle coming down


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

sydg60in said:


> yea it is def in time made sure of it about five times over spent a few hrs making sure it had a high idle before new stuff but it is higher now found a vac leak today fixed it but no luck with idle coming down


Clean out your ISV and change your blue coolant temp sensor, it's cheap enough


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## sydg60in (Jun 9, 2007)

chc-rado said:


> Should have same feel if it new stock feel. Different pressure plates, clutch disc will alter the feel, also a worn clutch system make how the pedal feel too. If it too stiff, mostly likely clutch is worn out, putting more pressure on pressure plate to engage-disengage .


i put a vr clutch in my g60 with a 10lb flywheel and i love it still stock feel but def grabs better then the wore out g60 clutch


----------



## sydg60in (Jun 9, 2007)

HavokRuels said:


> Clean out your ISV and change your blue coolant temp sensor, it's cheap enough
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


where is blue coolant temp sensor located???


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

HavokRuels said:


> Ok, here are those two ****ing mystery wires. I'm currently searching my bentley. They are on the passenger side and are part of the engine control harness.
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


Look at page 101 of wire diagram in bentley book G17-outside air (ambient) temp sensor. It has brown-yellow trace for pin-1 and white and red for pin-2. Does your oust side temp reads -40 all the time, or +125.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

sydg60in said:


> where is blue coolant temp sensor located???


It's located on the coolant flange on the block.



chc-rado said:


> Look at page 101 of wire diagram in bentley book G17-outside air (ambient) temp sensor. It has brown-yellow trace for pin-1 and white and red for pin-2. Does your oust side temp reads -40 all the time, or +125.


That's the one!!! It's never been connected and is missing the connector. Thanks!!'m


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Btw my cluster display just reads MFA when I'm driving. AMbient sensor is just a outside temp gauge for the cluster so its getting deleted I guess. Lol


----------



## bunkkaws (Feb 7, 2008)

HavokRuels said:


> Btw my cluster display just reads MFA when I'm driving. AMbient sensor is just a outside temp gauge for the cluster so its getting deleted I guess. Lol


So what purpose does the other temp sensor in the windshield serve?


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

bunkkaws said:


> So what purpose does the other temp sensor in the windshield serve?


I'm really sure your talking about the ac ambient sensor. That one in near windshield, turn off the compressor if it's under 40f. It more like added ac safety switch. This found on the vr6 models.


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## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Is this needed in a vr6 steering wheel wiring loom? I got this out of a passat and it was labeled x17 but has two more looms then my car did. Any help?


----------



## fusaro24v (Nov 9, 2007)

Besides the other number of problems I'm having with the Corrado I'm having trouble with what seems like oil pressure. Recently the vr has been dropping below normal idle only once every minute or so, almost to where I wouldn't even notice it, even with the ac off. Today on my way home I decided to punch it once I hit the highway when a few miles down I noticed the oil light came on. Temp read 222 and water was below 190. It has also seemed to be overheating when at lights or heavy traffic in 80+ degree weather. The motor has always had a very noticeable tick at high rpms but I read it was normal for these motors. I'm in the market for a Bently manual but I'm curious as to what would be causing these issues and how should I go about solving them or if one issue could be the cause of all the issues. Any advice or help is most appreciated from the vortex. Thanks.


----------



## fusaro24v (Nov 9, 2007)

Also, does anyone know of a reputable vw shop in the San Diego area?


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## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

Do you have to pull the steering wheel and column to replace the ignition switch on a 93 Rado?


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

chc-rado said:


> I'm really sure your talking about the ac ambient sensor. That one in near windshield, turn off the compressor if it's under 40f. It more like added ac safety switch. This found on the vr6 models.


 Yep AC cutout switch :beer:


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

dfuze1 said:


> Do you have to pull the steering wheel and column to replace the ignition switch on a 93 Rado?


 I think only lower plastic steering column cover HAS to be removed but pulling more stuff out of the way should make the job easier and with more space to work


----------



## Macks04GLI (Jul 20, 2007)

*Alternator, Coil Pack, plugs and/or wires*

Got a 94 SLC VRT. 

I'm having an issues where the car goes into limp mode after driving it for about an hour. Temp gauge says everything is fine....no engine over heating issues. So at open throttle say 3K RPMs it will start to spit and die down and then it catches back up and drives fine. This is the beginning. If you continue to drive the car it gets worse and worse and then eventually dies. Especially if you stop at a light. It idles crazy then fine then crazy then fine. Seems to be worse when the car is at full operating temp. So say you go to pull off, step on the gas, RPM hand doesn't move. eventually the battery dies and so does the car. 

Now if you let it sit for an hour or so and cool off, you can jump in it, crank it and no problem. Happen to me this past weekend so now it's time to figure this out. I thought it was a bad MAF...got a new MAF and that didn't fix it. So after talking to few guys, we think the alternator is going out and not charging the battery and therefore car goes dead. Possible the alternator can no longer handle the heat perhaps or it's just time for an alternator. Someone also mentioned it could be the coil pack or crank sensor. So i'm going after everything including new plugs and plug wires. 

Thoughts? DIY on removing the alternator? 

:beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Macks04GLI said:


> Got a 94 SLC VRT.
> 
> I'm having an issues where the car goes into limp mode after driving it for about an hour. Temp gauge says everything is fine....no engine over heating issues. So at open throttle say 3K RPMs it will start to spit and die down and then it catches back up and drives fine. This is the beginning. If you continue to drive the car it gets worse and worse and then eventually dies. Especially if you stop at a light. It idles crazy then fine then crazy then fine. Seems to be worse when the car is at full operating temp. So say you go to pull off, step on the gas, RPM hand doesn't move. eventually the battery dies and so does the car.
> 
> ...


 Did you replace your coolant temp sensors?


----------



## Macks04GLI (Jul 20, 2007)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Did you replace your coolant temp sensors?


 nope. I purchased her a few years ago and have lost touch with the original owner. I'm pretty sure the temp sensors have been done though. 

It doesn't seem to be running hot...not boiling or hissing or coolant loss.


----------



## pjdr (Apr 29, 2012)

*HeadLight*

I'm looking for the plastic bracket that holds in the drivers side HeadLight been looking for a few weeks now haven't found one. Here is what I am looking for,









I was going to buy the whole headlight off of ebay but it was sold when I contacted them...If anyone could guide me to where I could get it I would be very grateful,


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

pjdr said:


> I'm looking for the plastic bracket that holds in the drivers side HeadLight been looking for a few weeks now haven't found one. Here is what I am looking for,
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 You mean the plastic headlight surround trim???


----------



## pjdr (Apr 29, 2012)

No clue what you would call it assembly, bracket, black piece of plastic that holds the headlight in place  here is the one thats broken


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Macks04GLI said:


> nope. I purchased her a few years ago and have lost touch with the original owner. I'm pretty sure the temp sensors have been done though.
> 
> It doesn't seem to be running hot...not boiling or hissing or coolant loss.


 They are cheap enough to replace or you can diagnose thru the procedures listed in the Bentley :thumbup:


----------



## Macks04GLI (Jul 20, 2007)

Sr. Karmann said:


> They are cheap enough to replace or you can diagnose thru the procedures listed in the Bentley :thumbup:


 I have the pdf version of the Bently. I'll take a looks and see what it says. 

Anyone else have an opinion on this? Thanks!


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Last mystery item in my engine bay and it's not a wire :laugh:

Hard plastic vacuum line laying on the drivers side frame rail and going into the firewall. Wtf?? It was never hooked up and I scoured the Bentley. At first I figured maybe central locking or cruise but those are self sustaining.


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Macks04GLI said:


> I have the pdf version of the Bently. I'll take a looks and see what it says.
> 
> Anyone else have an opinion on this? Thanks!


 A faulty coolant temp sensor for the ECU would cause limp mode and would not reflect on your gauge  



HavokRuels said:


> Last mystery item in my engine bay and it's not a wire :laugh:
> 
> Hard plastic vacuum line laying on the drivers side frame rail and going into the firewall. Wtf?? It was never hooked up and I scoured the Bentley. At first I figured maybe central locking or cruise but those are self sustaining.
> 
> ...


 Washer fluid hard line?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

pjdr said:


> No clue what you would call it assembly, bracket, black piece of plastic that holds the headlight in place  here is the one thats broken


 Oh, isn't that part of the housing? 
If I'm seeing right and it is, you can still get those new from EPP: 
http://www.europeanperformanceprodu...ousing---Left-Driver-s-Side---VW-Corrado.html 


*edit:* I just noticed that your headlights are us-spec ones, so I'm not sure if those are NLA or not. but in either case you should anyway replace your dangerous/crap us-spec headlights with euro-spec ones


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

pjdr said:


> No clue what you would call it assembly, bracket, black piece of plastic that holds the headlight in place  here is the one thats broken


 That's your headlight assembly


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Washer fluid hard line?


 I'll have to look later, it goes into the firewall and into the drivers cabin so I'm thinking no.


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

HavokRuels said:


> I'll have to look later, it goes into the firewall and into the drivers cabin so I'm thinking no.
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


 There green vacuum hose, that goes to the vacuum tank, that on pass side, there white vacuum line in the center firewall, that for recir solenoid switch for hvac system. There large black vacuum hose for the cruise system on driver side, but you having 93 model, your vacuum cruise control pump is in the driver fender area. I hope this help. You might have find main source of engine vacuum to the vacuum tank and the check valve that goes with it.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> I'll have to look later, it goes into the firewall and into the drivers cabin so I'm thinking no.
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


 To your rear washer jet  

There are 3, 2 vac's, 1 AC, 1 MAP, 1 Washer fluid


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> To your rear washer jet
> 
> There are 3, 2 vac's, 1 AC, 1 MAP, 1 Washer fluid


 Minus I vacuum line for map. 93 cluster dont have map like 90-92 G60-VR6.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

chc-rado said:


> There green vacuum hose, that goes to the vacuum tank, that on pass side, there white vacuum line in the center firewall, that for recir solenoid switch for hvac system. There large black vacuum hose for the cruise system on driver side, but you having 93 model, your vacuum cruise control pump is in the driver fender area. I hope this help. You might have find main source of engine vacuum to the vacuum tank and the check valve that goes with it.


 Let me tell you something, you are the man. It's a white hard plastic line and it's right on the drivers frame rail, I had the assumption that it was cruise but I didn't realize it worked off vacuum, according to the Bentley layout, it looked like a self sustained system with its own vacuum pump. :beer: for you sir 


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

chc-rado said:


> Minus I vacuum line for map. 93 cluster dont have map like 90-92 G60-VR6.


 :thumbup::beer:


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> To your rear washer jet
> 
> There are 3, 2 vac's, 1 AC, 1 MAP, 1 Washer fluid


 So many lines lol. I just went and checked it out, the green one (drivers side) goes into the firewall and under the carpet. Not pulling it apart lol. This little project of swapping intake manifolds turned into a ****ing full on rehab. Now, no h20 this year and no money to finish lol. I should have gotten into corrados when I was pulling six figures a year, :facepalm:

I spotted the cruise pump behind the drivers fender, it will be getting deleted :laugh:

I love/hate this car


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

Easy question here for u guys. I think I know the answer but just wanna know Fo Sho or not. I recently bought a 2.9 clone and now found a true 2.9l mani for a pretty decent price. Would it be really worth me to sell th clone and buy a true 2.9? Here is my main question....... Is there a way to know Fo Sho or not of it is a true 2.9 mani or do I just have to take his word?


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Tk2g60 said:


> Easy question here for u guys. I think I know the answer but just wanna know Fo Sho or not. I recently bought a 2.9 clone and now found a true 2.9l mani for a pretty decent price. Would it be really worth me to sell th clone and buy a true 2.9? Here is my main question....... Is there a way to know Fo Sho or not of it is a true 2.9 mani or do I just have to take his word?


 I would say look for welds where they would have cloned it. Real is better just because lol


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

HavokRuels said:


> I would say look for welds where they would have cloned it. Real is better just because lol


 I was thinking I'd rather have the real one. But I don't think you read what I wrote correctly. I'm wondering how I can tell if it is a 2.9 mani and he is not just saying its a 2.9 when it's actually a 2.8??? Any differences? As for the clone I already bought one I can tell he welded a plate on the bottom. 

I ask this because I was thinking about buying the true 2.9 and selling my clone


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Tk2g60 said:


> I was thinking I'd rather have the real one. But I don't think you read what I wrote correctly. I'm wondering how I can tell if it is a 2.9 mani and he is not just saying its a 2.9 when it's actually a 2.8??? Any differences? As for the clone I already bought one I can tell he welded a plate on the bottom.
> 
> I ask this because I was thinking about buying the true 2.9 and selling my clone


 I read it but made the assumption ou knew the runner was wider on the underside. Then again, you would t of asked if you did lol

2.8 on the left 2.9 on the right 










Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

Thanks Havok:beer: that's exactly what I was looking for. Im Learning something new everyday. Baby steps lol


----------



## sisca (Sep 6, 2012)

*first corrado question*

just bought a 92 corrado slc off ebay. the car runs/drives well, only mod i know of is a cold air intake. my question is: after reading about the vr6 issues with springing coolant leaks, blown headgaskets, etc, its got me thinking before any of this happens im going to buy a rebuilt engine from schimmel performance. does anyone here have much experience with schimmel built engines, and are they a huge upgrade to my stock engine? thanks in advance!


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Hey guys, Im having a problem with my clutch and im hoping you could help me. 

Corrado VR6 

So my pedal at one point was fine, but eventually started feeling like crap and then gear grinding started. The slave cylinder on it had barely 10000km and the master was, i'm pretty sure, original. I replaced the master because a tech told me he could hear it kind of bringing in air, I bled the system pedal still didnt feel great and gears would still grind. I took out the slave and the rod was extended all the way out, to save money i put in a slave from my buddies corrado which had the rod pushed all the way in, all i had to do was gravity bleed and the clutch felt great and i had great gear shifting, this lasted about a week. 

So now i put in a new slave, bled it and it still wont go into gear.. that being said the clutch doesnt feel that great either. Have i just not bled it enough or is there like a hole in my clutch line?


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

What size are the water outlets on the radiator, coolant bottle, and water pump?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Tk2g60 said:


> Thanks Havok:beer: that's exactly what I was looking for. Im Learning something new everyday. Baby steps lol


 Actual Runners curving down to the lower are also larger on the 2.9 as well as the opening on the back side. 



sisca said:


> just bought a 92 corrado slc off ebay. the car runs/drives well, only mod i know of is a cold air intake. my question is: after reading about the vr6 issues with springing coolant leaks, blown headgaskets, etc, its got me thinking before any of this happens im going to buy a rebuilt engine from schimmel performance. does anyone here have much experience with schimmel built engines, and are they a huge upgrade to my stock engine? thanks in advance!


 You need to hit the VR6 12V Forums and start reading. Yes, Schimmel has been doing motors forever, and that is awesome, but because your car leaks, that is no reason to replace the engine. Fix the other stuff that fails, made of rubber and plastic. 




Das.Rado said:


> Hey guys, Im having a problem with my clutch and im hoping you could help me.
> 
> Corrado VR6
> 
> ...


 
Sounds like you need a clutch actually.


----------



## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

turtledub said:


> What size are the water outlets on the radiator, coolant bottle, and water pump?


 I just made some aluminum coolant lines so this is fresh in my mind... below are the pipe sizes I ordered for each of the lines, but you would be wise to double check these numbers especially because of the english to metric conversion: 

radiator inlet/outlet - ~1.5" 
coolant bottle outlet - ~5/8" 
tstat housing (heatercore) - ~1" 
heatercore inlet/outlet - ~3/4" 
cylinder head outlet - ~3/4"


----------



## sisca (Sep 6, 2012)

Thanks dubzak. No leaks yet, but im just thinking ahead instead of diving under the hood every weekend.


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> Actual Runners curving down to the lower are also larger on the 2.9 as well as the opening on the back side.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Clutch has maybe 2000km on it, the only thing not new is te line from the master to the slave. I'm not trying to knock your diagnosis because I really appreciate all the help I can get, but if it was the clutch, why would it have worked good with the slave from the other corrado for a week?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

It gets tricky with Clutches. If you Have a Master and Slave, Both Bled, Both Have Pressure, and then the pedal feels off or fails, a bad spring in the clutch, bent clutch fork, or bad throw out bearing could be the culprit. 

Seeing what you have replaced, makes me think the actual clutch or one of the associated parts. 

You have checked linkage and shifter, and all is well there?


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Ok fellow corrado nuts. 
93 SLC on koni yellow 
Brake discs front and rear are slotted and drilled. 
I put new ceramic rear pads in my corrado. I bought them from o'reilly.... Which might be the problem. 

When I go over bumps I can hear the pads clanging around in the carrier / caliper when the brakes are not depressed. I used the CRC red paste all over the back side of the pads. 
I have a feeling the pads are slightly too small. 
or I need a new set of Mintex. 
or i need shims. 

Ideas? testimonials?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Cheap Pads. Get Proper, and Grease em again just like these, shouldn't make a sound.


----------



## cata (May 19, 2006)

Where do you guys feel your clutch starting to grab? With a new clutch, throwout bearing, slave and master cyls, I feel as if it's not completely disengaged until the pedal is right against the floor. Anything less it seems to bite just a little bit, putting a bit of stress on the synchros. Is this kind of behavior normal


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cata said:


> Where do you guys feel your clutch starting to grab? With a new clutch, throwout bearing, slave and master cyls, I feel as if it's not completely disengaged until the pedal is right against the floor. Anything less it seems to bite just a little bit, putting a bit of stress on the synchros. Is this kind of behavior normal


 Mine grabs pretty high up. Literally brand new everything. 

Is your clutch fork bent?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

sisca said:


> just bought a 92 corrado slc off ebay. the car runs/drives well, only mod i know of is a cold air intake. my question is: after reading about the vr6 issues with springing coolant leaks, blown headgaskets, etc, its got me thinking before any of this happens im going to buy a rebuilt engine from schimmel performance. does anyone here have much experience with schimmel built engines, and are they a huge upgrade to my stock engine? thanks in advance!


 Depends on what you are using it for. Schimmel builds engines for turbo cars. If you are sticking with N/A setup a stock 2.8 or 2.9 block is ideal and costs much less. 

I just regasketed/did chains/cams/coolant parts/clutch on my 138k engine. Should be fine for years. :thumbup:


----------



## cata (May 19, 2006)

TheBurninator said:


> Mine grabs pretty high up. Literally brand new everything.
> 
> Is your clutch fork bent?


 I hope not  
I've been used to shifting it at 3/4 pedal travel pushed in and had no issues. Recently in traffic I noticed that it seems like it still bites just a little at that point, so maybe pressing all the way is better. I'll need to play with it a bit more to confirm, but for now I'd like to gauge what "normal" is considered to be. 

How far do you push the pedal till you can confirm zero bite? From my understanding, you don't want any bite at all when shifting, or else you put undue stress on the synchros. I double clutch most of my shifts and do a lot of high rpm up/down shifts, but only by double clutching. I hope this effort in keeping my synchros happy didn't result in a bent fork :banghead:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cata said:


> I hope not
> I've been used to shifting it at 3/4 pedal travel pushed in and had no issues. Recently in traffic I noticed that it seems like it still bites just a little at that point, so maybe pressing all the way is better. I'll need to play with it a bit more to confirm, but for now I'd like to gauge what "normal" is considered to be.
> 
> How far do you push the pedal till you can confirm zero bite? From my understanding, you don't want any bite at all when shifting, or else you put undue stress on the synchros. I double clutch most of my shifts and do a lot of high rpm up/down shifts, but only by double clutching. I hope this effort in keeping my synchros happy didn't result in a bent fork :banghead:


 High RPM shifting tends to lead to a bent fork... They are fairly cheap new and you can buy re-enforced ones for like 120 bucks. 

I would try bleeding the slave and see what happens first.


----------



## cata (May 19, 2006)

The system has been bled already this season, but I guess I'll try again on a downhill slope. Can the fork be changed with the motor and tranny still in the car? Room is pretty tight in that area.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cata said:


> The system has been bled already this season, but I guess I'll try again on a downhill slope. Can the fork be changed with the motor and tranny still in the car? Room is pretty tight in that area.


 Nope. Trans has to come out. It is the part that the release bearing sits on. 

http://www.intengineering.com/integrated-engineering-reinforced-clutch-fork-02a-02j.html


----------



## cata (May 19, 2006)

God dammit how did I overlook this weakness :banghead: What's the point in going N/A if you ain't gonna redline the pi$ out of it :banghead: Bent fork or not, looks like I'll be doing this regardless :banghead:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cata said:


> God dammit how did I overlook this weakness :banghead: What's the point in going N/A if you ain't gonna redline the pi$ out of it :banghead: Bent fork or not, looks like I'll be doing this regardless :banghead:


 Flipside customs has it cheaper FYI 
http://www.flipsidecustoms.com/OnlineStore.php 

While you are at it you should add this to your list 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5301130-02A-O2A-Pinion-Cuff-Pinion-Brace 

That will help with the usual issues.


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> Cheap Pads. Get Proper, and Grease em again just like these, shouldn't make a sound.


 My thoughts as well. Thanks for the confirmation.


----------



## cata (May 19, 2006)

TheBurninator said:


> While you are at it you should add this to your list
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5301130-02A-O2A-Pinion-Cuff-Pinion-Brace
> 
> That will help with the usual issues.


 Cheers for that :thumbup: Never knew about it. I'll be going with the IE clutch fork as it looks to be more durable against corrosion. Options are always good though. 

Also, after a bit of power searching, there was someone who had an issue with a replacement SACHS clutch popping a rivet or two on the PP, as a result of high RPM shifting. While I'm in there, I might as well replace the clutch as well. Should I be concerned about this and look into an upgrade? 

Thanks


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cata said:


> Cheers for that :thumbup: Never knew about it. I'll be going with the IE clutch fork as it looks to be more durable against corrosion. Options are always good though.
> 
> Also, after a bit of power searching, there was someone who had an issue with a replacement SACHS clutch popping a rivet or two on the PP, as a result of high RPM shifting. While I'm in there, I might as well replace the clutch as well. Should I be concerned about this and look into an upgrade?
> 
> Thanks


 The stock clutch disk is fine for NA applications. The PP rivets do like to let go... although I've never had issues persay.


----------



## cata (May 19, 2006)

My concerns exactly. Is it possible to couple the stock disk with a stronger PP? 
I want this area to be indestructible (for this application) by the time I'm done with it.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

cata said:


> My concerns exactly. Is it possible to couple the stock disk with a stronger PP?
> I want this area to be indestructible (for this application) by the time I'm done with it.


 Yep! You can do that. Driven a few setups like that actually. :thumbup:


----------



## cata (May 19, 2006)

Sweet! Can you please recommend a good hybrid setup? I already sifted thru 12 pages of search results on both the corrado and 12v forum, so doubt I'll find anything. Cheers


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Stainless 2.5 inch exhaust is heavy. I keep streching out factory rubber hangers. Anyone got a better solution / better hanger supplier? 
TT has these. 
Exhaust Hanger (w/ roller chain molded inside)


----------



## Macks04GLI (Jul 20, 2007)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Did you replace your coolant temp sensors?





Macks04GLI said:


> Got a 94 SLC VRT.
> 
> I'm having an issues where the car goes into limp mode after driving it for about an hour. Temp gauge says everything is fine....no engine over heating issues. So at open throttle say 3K RPMs it will start to spit and die down and then it catches back up and drives fine. This is the beginning. If you continue to drive the car it gets worse and worse and then eventually dies. Especially if you stop at a light. It idles crazy then fine then crazy then fine. Seems to be worse when the car is at full operating temp. So say you go to pull off, step on the gas, RPM hand doesn't move. eventually the battery dies and so does the car.
> 
> ...





Macks04GLI said:


> nope. I purchased her a few years ago and have lost touch with the original owner. I'm pretty sure the temp sensors have been done though.
> 
> It doesn't seem to be running hot...not boiling or hissing or coolant loss.


Still at this fellas. School and work have kept me from doing much work on her. I began stripping stuff off to get to the alternator when a friend of mine who own a car audio store mentioned it could be the alternator ground. 

We I check the grown it and doesn't look corroded or loose. I realize the O ring type connector could expand under the heat of the engine. He thought this might be happening and the reason why after sitting for a while she fires and drives. The ground had time to cool down. 

Thoughts???? 

I've had the following issues suggested to me:

- alternator
- alt ground
- coil pack
- fuel pump relay
- temp sensors
- plugs 
- plug wires

So before I sell a kidney to pay to replace all that, I'm looking for some guidance.


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Macks04GLI said:


> I've had the following issues suggested to me:
> 
> So before I sell a kidney to pay to replace all that, I'm looking for some guidance.


Before I even address these other suggestions I have to ask a question.
Did you replace the blue cap temp sensor in the main coolant flange that is in the front of the engine bay on the drivers side?

This temp sensor has everything to do with fuel mixture and a faulty one is a very easy way to cause an Idle fault. I keep a spare in my tool kit in the trunk of my Corrado because 
A. they are VERY easy to swap out. 
B. They go bad when you aren’t looking.
Click here, buy 2.
Corrado Coolant temp sensors

Next i would say take off your ISV and buy a bottle of CRC MAF sensor cleaner and blast all the crap out of it.


Now to your points about those other things..
- alternator (Sure that would cause a bad idle.... but you'd be draining your battery too...) No 
- alt ground ( Sure also but you already looked at that)
- coil pack (yeah coil pack could be it but I feel like a bad one would do it all the time not 1 HR in)
- fuel pump relay ( IDK, DUBZAK might have a better idea on this on this.
- temp sensors (my money is on this being the issue)
- plugs (It is never a bad idea to put in new plugs.) 8.50/ plug on German Autoparts
- plug wires (funny story I had a broken plug wire misfiring and arcing onto the sidewall of the intake. I doubt this is your issue.


TL;DR: I'm going to guess your issue is one of the following.
1. temp sensor
2. ISV (idle stabilizer valve)
3. Coilpack.... Maybe.

Change the temp sensor, clean the ISV. Then let us know what happened. If you want to be like me and become Anal, throw new sparkplugs at it for giggles.

GL


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Macks04GLI said:


> I replaced the MAF


 I just re-read your post. MAF and sparkplugs already changed.... I'm surprised you didnt already sell that testicle...

I'll stress again... Read my ^ post and get back to us.


----------



## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Turns out my problem was a failed new master and infact an internal problem as well, atleast the pressure plate is shot from my findings from peeking in the bell housing with the boroscope.

Thank you dubzak you sir were correct and I thank you for your help.


Anyways, I was just wondering if anyone with after market vr6 clutch kits can chime in with your experiences, from what I've read, spec doesn't make the greatest product for vws and clutch net has dropped in quality. If anyone can chime in, I'd greatly appreciate it.


----------



## cata (May 19, 2006)

Das.Rado said:


> Turns out my problem was a failed new master and infact an internal problem as well


Sounds like a tricky diagnosis, nothing worse than a new part throwing you off.



Das.Rado said:


> Anyways, I was just wondering if anyone with after market vr6 clutch kits can chime in with your experiences, from what I've read, spec doesn't make the greatest product for vws and clutch net has dropped in quality. If anyone can chime in, I'd greatly appreciate it.


It be great if someone could share what would be a better upgrade than the standard OEM stuff. If the pressure plate rivets are a weak link, I don't get why it gets recommended so much..


----------



## Macks04GLI (Jul 20, 2007)

TheLateJetta said:


> I just re-read your post. MAF and sparkplugs already changed.... I'm surprised you didnt already sell that testicle...
> 
> I'll stress again... Read my ^ post and get back to us.


THANKS! I haven't done the plugs yet, but they will get done. And plug wires replaced also.

I have read your reply a few times..and will prob read it a few more. Many thanks. I'll report back soon. :thumbup:


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Macks04GLI said:


> THANKS! I haven't done the plugs yet, but they will get done. And plug wires replaced also.
> 
> I have read your reply a few times..and will prob read it a few more. Many thanks. I'll report back soon. :thumbup:


Swap out the Blue temp sensor first.
If that does the trick and the car runs fine, dont do anything else.

If it doenst work, or works a little bit better. Then clean the ISV.

Then stop and let us know what happens before you spend $50 on plugs and like 80 on wires.

Good luck. Your bently book should have diagrams on how to locate the sensors and the ISV if you havent already


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

1990 aqua blue pearl? Common or rare


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Isn't that just a Canadian color?


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Not sure, there is a dark blue g60 at one of the garages i service that's going to the scrap yard.


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

jettalvr41 said:


> Is this needed in a vr6 steering wheel wiring loom? I got this out of a passat and it was labeled x17 but has two more looms then my car did. Any help?


Anyone?


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

jettalvr41 said:


> Anyone?


I'm really sure it plug into one one connector to cruise control harness.


----------



## Tk2g60 (Aug 26, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> Actual Runners curving down to the lower are also larger on the 2.9 as well as the opening on the back side.


:thumbup::thumbup: thanks for the info. Just saw this. Are the lower manifolds the same between a 2.8 vs 2.9?


----------



## Mobel (Sep 13, 2012)

So I have -92 g60 corrado.
It seems abs problesm are common..?
So mine problem is the booster wont work at all, pedal is pretty stiff.
Ive changed the relays #79 & #179 and inspected fuses from panel and abs panel behind.
ABS blinker gives me codes 1114, 1241 & 1243 , so could these give the effect of booster not starting up?

Not all here:what:

Running is bad since it sputters from low rpm and gets bit worse on warmimg, on full throttle it nearly dies under load from 3k rpm->
Gives also some non oily smoke and stuff from excaust..
I have changed ecm relay, spark plugs, blue temp sensor, grounds are good, gas pressure FEELS enough, cam timing and ignition timing checked.

Could it be the ecm hose as it is only 0.85m long?
And how would broken lambda effect to running?


----------



## cata (May 19, 2006)

1114 Inlet valve FR Faulty wiring, connector, or valve coil
1241 Wheel-speed sensor FR Speed sensor cable, wiring connection, speed sensor, excessive or insufficient gap between sensor and pulse wheel, sensor or wheel dirty or damaged
1243 Wheel-speed sensor RR Speed sensor cable, wiring connection, speed sensor, excessive or insufficient gap between sensor and pulse wheel, sensor or wheel dirty or damaged

Check your abs speed sensors (at the wheel) for damage. If any of them act up, your on your own for brake assist.


----------



## Macks04GLI (Jul 20, 2007)

TheLateJetta said:


> Swap out the Blue temp sensor first.
> If that does the trick and the car runs fine, dont do anything else.
> 
> If it doenst work, or works a little bit better. Then clean the ISV.
> ...


Will do. Have Bentley will research. 

Since I just acquired the car, I think I'll do the plug anyway. I didn't get a maintenance log with the car so I need to establish a baseline. I plan on keeping her in the collection for a while. 

Pics for clicks









Thanks for the advice and the direction. I'm ordering sensors and plugs today.


----------



## G2Performance (Jun 4, 2007)

My son who is deployed found a 1990 G60 on line and bought it so I'm getting it ready for him before he gets home. Just making it mechanically good for now but have a question about the O2 sensor. It has an aftermarket one in it with what looks like a pretty cobbled wiring mess and need to know without a cel how do you know if it's working correctly? I have a LM-2 to check afr if that helps or will it just run really crappy if it's not working??

Thanks
Craig


----------



## mrwhite2992 (Mar 27, 2011)

Was wondering if I could get some help or
Atleast somethings I could eliminate from what could be causing this problem in my 90 vr6 swap. When I press the gas pedal to rev the engine it will bog down the. Rev up....it does this consistently. The car also seems to be running rich and has a little smoke coming out the tailpipe, exhaust smells strongly of gas


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## BKFM72 (Dec 1, 2006)

*92 VR6 corrado swap to jetta*

92 VR6 coilpack
This is a 5 wire MAF VR6
swapped into a mk2 jetta
This ran fine before swap 

At wits end;
#2 injector is on all the time-electrically. Used NOID light to check and it is on all the time. Using the light on the other injectors it flickers.
Prior to starting car, key on, injector has 12v at one side and when noid light in it is off. As soon as it fires over the light stays on. 
Swapped injectors but it still is on all the time. 
Checked harness and no ground faults or bad wires.
No pinched wires. 
*Can not* find another computer to swap with mine.
Car runs ok, misses, with #2 injector disconnected.
I think the ECU has bad injector switching transistor but unsure
Any suggestions?


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

chc-rado said:


> I'm really sure it plug into one one connector to cruise control harness.


K so like maybe from steering electronics to the silver cruise box? I'll check tonight and see if anything lines up.


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

chc-rado said:


> I'm really sure it plug into one one connector to cruise control harness.


K so like maybe from steering electronics to the silver cruise box? I'll check tonight and see if anything lines up.


----------



## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

Can anyone tell me if the tach on a VR6 cluster runs on 12v? or is the signal wire a lower voltage?
I got some help with a solution why my tach isn't working since going standalone but his was done on a G60 cluster. Just not sure if they would be the same or not. TIA


----------



## olldskool (Sep 16, 2012)

*1992 vw corrado slc*

Hello all I am new too the vw scene! just bought my corrado about a week ago....I must say ive been a honda guy for some time, I wanted something different and got a smoking deal on my corrado.....I ABSOLUTELY LOVE THE CAR!!!! 

But the motor is pretty much stock for now and would like too get some more power out of it... the cat and resonator have been deleted but stock muffler is there, exhaust pipe from manifold is 2.25 to muffler...Im not looking for a ton of power but would like too feel a little more in seat of my pants... thanks for all the info


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

olldskool said:


> Hello all I am new too the vw scene! just bought my corrado about a week ago....I must say ive been a honda guy for some time, I wanted something different and got a smoking deal on my corrado.....I ABSOLUTELY LOVE THE CAR!!!!
> 
> But the motor is pretty much stock for now and would like too get some more power out of it... the cat and resonator have been deleted but stock muffler is there, exhaust pipe from manifold is 2.25 to muffler...Im not looking for a ton of power but would like too feel a little more in seat of my pants... thanks for all the info


What year

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2


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## krager54 (Aug 7, 2011)

olldskool said:


> Hello all I am new too the vw scene! just bought my corrado about a week ago....I must say ive been a honda guy for some time, I wanted something different and got a smoking deal on my corrado.....I ABSOLUTELY LOVE THE CAR!!!!
> 
> But the motor is pretty much stock for now and would like too get some more power out of it... the cat and resonator have been deleted but stock muffler is there, exhaust pipe from manifold is 2.25 to muffler...Im not looking for a ton of power but would like too feel a little more in seat of my pants... thanks for all the info


I wouldn't play with any performance mods until you get more comfortable with working on it.

Congrats on the purchase.


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## cata (May 19, 2006)

What he ^ said x10000


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## olldskool (Sep 16, 2012)

The only way too get comfortable with them is too dive in it... Ive worked on a lot of stuff im not scared too dive in at all.. 
The car is a 92. The one thing i have learned working on german cars is u never go cheap quick fix... But i dont do that with any of my vehicles


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

olldskool said:


> The only way too get comfortable with them is too dive in it... Ive worked on a lot of stuff im not scared too dive in at all..
> The car is a 92. The one thing i have learned working on german cars is u never go cheap quick fix... But i dont do that with any of my vehicles


1992 g60 or slc? They are great cars yet very quirky. Whether you dive right in or go easy, never give up, these cars have a tendency to destroy a mans morale. Good luck and fee free to post any questions here.

Btw I didn't answer your original question only because there would be different responses on upgrades depending on what sub model you have.


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## olldskool (Sep 16, 2012)

its a slc. Ive heard they can be a nightmare, but that doesnt bother me any, especially after how fun the car is too drive. I plan on building a motor and making lots more power but want too find one out of a car that i can take my time with


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

If anyone needs to cheap out on parts, peep bimmerparts.com!!! Wholesale to the public. 

I once got a 92 VR dizzy for ~100 bux, retail was over 300!!!


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

Rather ask the experts here than making new thread. So I'm building my 16vt setup on G60 platform chassis. I already have plus suspension setup. I'm also upgrading to vr6 style mounts. In this case, I'm doing mk3 k-frame, b3-b4 lower radiator support. Now I have to use vr6 crossmember too. I'm using G60 radiator with passat 16v dual fan setup and tdi-O2A front bracket. This only way I noticed to clear the fans and mk3 ac system too bc the passast lower radiator support is equal to vr6 crossmember. This drop radiator lower than vr6 or g60 lower core support does. 

My question(s) what radiator would use, G60 radiator is 2 inch longer, or vr6-16v radiator from b3-b4 passat. Also will the tdi transmission mount with vr6 crossmember tilt the engine forward due to lower profile of vr6 cross member? Have anybody did b3-b4 lower radiator setup and what radiator works best with G60 upper core support.


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

B3 vr6 radiator. 










G60 front vs B3 vr6 










There 2.5 inch difference in height. Almost same length and thickness. I like upper cut out on upper left to clear ac line. I'm going use 16v dual fan setup too. This weekend I try both radiator with b3-b4 vr6 crossmember and lower core support on G60 upper core support. My guess will be the b3 vr6 radiator, due to the lower radiator hose will clear crossmember.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

you have to do massive amounts of cutting to fit the b3/4 lower rad support. Also you will have to remove the headlights just to replace the high beams with it in. Literally no room.


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

Oh that I know. I already modified(cut) b3 lower core support. Removed the hooks. I don't want destroy any of corrados core supports. I think there worth some money in original state. Either G60 or VR6. That why I'm doing b3 setup with enough room for intercooler. Also b3 lower core support has power steering line tuck under the support area. Getting rid of corrado p.s. Cooler line.


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> you have to do massive amounts of cutting to fit the b3/4 lower rad support. Also you will have to remove the headlights just to replace the high beams with it in. Literally no room.


Either way, I always remove vr6 e- codes to replace headlight bulbs. . It's like velour for me.


----------



## onavarro8 (Oct 3, 2006)

I recently started hearing a knocking sound that seems to be coming from my front wheel. I only hear if im coasting but when I accelerate or brake its barely noticeable. 

I jacked up and the wheel has a little bit of play side to side but not up and down. I checked behind the wheel and the ball joint looks really worn out...

Just wanted to ask here if anybody knows what could cause this knocking sound. I don't want to start replacing a bunch of **** if I don't have to, or if this sound is even coming from there.

Any help???


----------



## cata (May 19, 2006)

That kinda sound is typically related to ball joint/tie rod end. Likely ball joint. I recommend you replace both and go from there, as you can get away without doing an alignment that way. Just get it out with a ball joint extractor and leave the strut assembly bolts untouched.


----------



## onavarro8 (Oct 3, 2006)

Thanks! I actually took my car in for an alignment this morning and they comfirmed that the ball joint was messed up. I just ordered 2 to replace the front ones and then I will go back for the alignment after.


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

Flame suit on. 

I picked up a set of sawblades recently. They are the 8.5 and 9.5 inch set up. The car is currently 4x100. I have 5x100 adapters but I do not want to go through the hassle of changing the car over to 5x100. What would be a good adapter set up to go with as far as thickness? I am trying to avoid poke as much as possible. Also I am hoping for minimal body work. Rolling the fenders is about as far as I want to go. 

I searched but none of the threads had the adapter specs.


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## mattsgota325i (Mar 2, 2006)

both of my seatbelts are stuck at the front.. got both door cards out already because ive got a bunch of interior work to do on my car.. was wondering if there is a way to move them to the back manually and lock them back there.. and no i dont want to go spend money on euro seatbelts so if thats your answer dont waste your time. 

-thanks matt


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## mattsgota325i (Mar 2, 2006)

mattsgota325i said:


> both of my seatbelts are stuck at the front.. got both door cards out already because ive got a bunch of interior work to do on my car.. was wondering if there is a way to move them to the back manually and lock them back there.. and no i dont want to go spend money on euro seatbelts so if thats your answer dont waste your time.
> 
> -thanks matt


 forgot to mention i do already have the emergency ones out so please dont suggest that either


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## mciresi (Aug 6, 2012)

Question. 2007 eos 2.0T installing a backup camera. Need to know which wire is the wire for the reverse lights as there is a cluster going into the rear light. Thank you

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I957 using Tapatalk 2


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

mciresi said:


> Question. 2007 eos 2.0T installing a backup camera. Need to know which wire is the wire for the reverse lights as there is a cluster going into the rear light. Thank you
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I957 using Tapatalk 2


 :screwy: Eos does not translate to corrado. :facepalm:


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## mattsgota325i (Mar 2, 2006)

mattsgota325i said:


> both of my seatbelts are stuck at the front.. got both door cards out already because ive got a bunch of interior work to do on my car.. was wondering if there is a way to move them to the back manually and lock them back there.. and no i dont want to go spend money on euro seatbelts so if thats your answer dont waste your time.
> 
> -thanks matt
> 
> ...


 
anyone?


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## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

mattsgota325i said:


> anyone?


 You could do what I did. Remove the b pillar cover and rear knee board on both sides. Find the seatbelt motor, unplug it. Then find the seatbelt wire, cut it, then move the seatbelts back to the rear position by hand.
Then just continue using the failsafe ones. that's cheaper than Canadian / euro spec swap.

sent from my omni tool.


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

turtledub said:


> Flame suit on.
> 
> I picked up a set of sawblades recently. They are the 8.5 and 9.5 inch set up. The car is currently 4x100. I have 5x100 adapters but I do not want to go through the hassle of changing the car over to 5x100. What would be a good adapter set up to go with as far as thickness? I am trying to avoid poke as much as possible. Also I am hoping for minimal body work. Rolling the fenders is about as far as I want to go.
> 
> I searched but none of the threads had the adapter specs.


 Bump for a new page.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

turtledub said:


> Bump for a new page.


 Good luck trying to accomplish what you said with sawblades, your best bet would be to convert your hubs and rotors to match the pattern. If you look thru the wheel, offset, your mom's horoscope thread, you may find some more valuable info there.


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## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

So the dowells came loose from my autotech flywheel and carved a nice slice into my bellhousing. Furthermore, my pressure plate bolts ended up coming loose. 

Is this a common flywheel problem that autotech will cover or am i hooped? 

(Corrado VR6)


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Das.Rado said:


> So the dowells came loose from my autotech flywheel and carved a nice slice into my bellhousing. Furthermore, my pressure plate bolts ended up coming loose.
> 
> Is this a common flywheel problem that autotech will cover or am i hooped?
> 
> (Corrado VR6)


 Seems kind of odd?? 


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## sisca (Sep 6, 2012)

Ooooooooooook.....passenger door is closed. Outside door handle doesnt work. Inside door handle doesnt work. How do i get the damn door open, or at least the door card off , so i can fix whatevers wrong?


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

sisca said:


> Ooooooooooook.....passenger door is closed. Outside door handle doesnt work. Inside door handle doesnt work. How do i get the damn door open, or at least the door card off , so i can fix whatevers wrong?


 Oh sh!t  I hope you don't have to rip the door card apart... 




Jam66es said:


> I'm trying to fit a civic intake I stole last night onto my G60.


 ^^Spam much??? :facepalm:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

sisca said:


> Ooooooooooook.....passenger door is closed. Outside door handle doesnt work. Inside door handle doesnt work. How do i get the damn door open, or at least the door card off , so i can fix whatevers wrong?


 You may be able to get the window down to fish something in there to open it, that is if your window works, gotta fix that sorta stuff asap, always anticipate the next break and double up on things like doors. Your other alternative is to pull every screw you can gain access to, remove them and pull on the card, probably destroying it in the process, just hope you are missing some side screws 



RedYellowWhite said:


> ^^Spam much??? :facepalm:


 :laugh:


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

I was able to get a brand new set of OE wires for the SLC for cheap, how do they compare to Bosch??

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2


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## cata (May 19, 2006)

Das.Rado said:


> So the dowells came loose from my autotech flywheel and carved a nice slice into my bellhousing. Furthermore, my pressure plate bolts ended up coming loose.
> (Corrado VR6)


 Brutal :facepalm: Look at the bottom of page 215, maybe you can PM him and get some more info. Share your findings please.


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

My Car: 1991 Corrado G60 14X,XXX Auto

What's up guys, so first I'm *NOT* here for people to tell me to switch to manual, I have everything for a 5 speed swap and will do it buy I can't at the moment. But my question and request is has anybody dealt with a auto trans just stop working. I'll start out by saying what happened when it quit. I was leaving work and crossing the road. I couldn't make it all the way across so just got into the middle lane. There was a small opening so I gassed it it took off and just as I got into the middlelane it just revved real high and then nothing was there.. The car still runs just fine it just won't move. At first I thought it was a axle since I was turning at the time but that doesn't seem to be the problem. I jacked it up yesterday and put it on jack stands and when you put it in drive absolutely nothing happens. The wheels don't turn and it doesn't even sound like the tranny is going into gear when put in drive, reverse, or any gears. I had my wife go threw the gears while I watched and the selector is moving. And when I spin the wheels manually it seems like the trans/gears are ok because they spin opposite of each other. So I'm stumped!! So if someone can please help I would REALLY APPRICIATE IT!! Could it be out of fluid, a broken cable or piece of linkage, or a sensor?? I plan on doing the 5 speed swap but can't right now since this is my daily. But if it's a blown tranny or something then I guess I'll have to start. Also my stepdad who only works on American cars said he thinks it might be the "automatic transmission pump." Is that a possibility?? I have a bentley for help so if anybody can just give me some pointers that would help. 

Thanks in advance and really hope someone can help. Feel free to PM me for more details. 

Thanks,

David
:beer::beer::thumbup:


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## IMWALKIN (Mar 28, 2002)

*bumper grill*

vr bumper grill fit a g??


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

I have a million answers to this page (which should be stickied LOUISE!!!!!!!! Get off your ass and make this up top damnit!)

:stepping off soapbox:

Feel free (to those posting on THIS page) to call/text me at 


+.001.267.337.0976

-Michael


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

IMWALKIN said:


> vr bumper grill fit a g??


TAbs are diff, but is it possible easily? Yes.

As long as you know there is a 16mm dif between the two, fogs and turns are dif, AND hood will be misaligned no matter how hard you try.

Food for thought.......

-Michael


----------



## 90corradog60w/61k (Sep 26, 2012)

*any major advice?*

I just bought my Corrado g60 and it has 61164 miles on it. I hear this is a pretty rare car and I would like to keep it running. Right now everything works and it looks like factory new. The only thing is the oil light flashes and a beeper goes off with it. This happens like one day every 10 days and lasts almost all day. I took it to the garage and am being told there is plenty of oil pressure but not told how much "plenty" means. I would like to know how much is plenty. I have a new pressure switch to go on the filter adapter if needed but dont want to do anything until i know how much pressure "plenty" actually is.


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

Noobercorn said:


> TAbs are diff, but is it possible easily? Yes.
> 
> As long as you know there is a 16mm dif between the two, fogs and turns are dif, AND hood will be misaligned no matter how hard you try.
> 
> ...


???

I think he is talking about the lower bumper grill

For bumper grills the later will fit from what I have read.


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## 90corradog60w/61k (Sep 26, 2012)

*My Car: 1991 Corrado G60 14X,XXX Auto*

sounds like a torque convertor issue to me like the ears that seat in the pump broke off or something i say take the trans out and check the convertor. best o luck to ya


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

90corradog60w/61k said:


> sounds like a torque convertor issue to me like the ears that seat in the pump broke off or something i say take the trans out and check the convertor. best o luck to ya


Thanks for your help man. I will defietly look into that. Also you don't think it could be any sort of electrical issue. I'm gonna check the fluid level to but if it's low or empty would would that make the care not drive? I hope its something easy but with my luck it won't be... Again thanks for your help. 

David


----------



## IMWALKIN (Mar 28, 2002)

I'm getting mixed answers on the fitament of a vr lower grill on a g...can anyone confirm either? I know its a diff part number....anyway


----------



## clintg60-16v (Dec 13, 2002)

Why would you want it? The slats aren't all open on the vr version.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

krazy4dubz said:


> Thanks for your help man. I will defietly look into that. Also you don't think it could be any sort of electrical issue. I'm gonna check the fluid level to but if it's low or empty would would that make the care not drive? I hope its something easy but with my luck it won't be... Again thanks for your help.
> 
> David


Well if its an TCM issue, I've got on lying around :thumbup:


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## vwraaner (May 27, 2011)

I have recently converted to the MK4 rear calipers, and swapped all brake lines to steel braided lines. I have also flushed 3 liters of brake fluid through the system with a ezibleeder just to be sure that there is no air left. 

But now when i park my car with the e-brake on the ABS light either stays on or come on when i drive. *I now suspect that the rear proportioning valve might be sticking, am i right?* And when the ABS is working, i can also feel that the ABS is kicking in when it shouldnt (very light braking in slow speed etc) And when it does that the pedal gets significantly harder to press down...

Before i swapped the rear calipers the ABS worked just fine, but then again i have not parked the car with e-brake on the last 4 months because the brakes would stick when releasing e-brake...

*Update:* I was driving my corrado earlier this day, and when reversing up my driveway i can hear that the rear brakes are slightly sticking and makes a whining/grinding noise. Now i really suspect that the rear proportioning valve are bad because i have brand new calipers. Is there any other way that i can check if it really is failing? And can a bad rear proportioning valve make the ABS system shut off because of higher pressure than normal?


----------



## Macks04GLI (Jul 20, 2007)

Macks04GLI said:


> Still at this fellas. School and work have kept me from doing much work on her. I began stripping stuff off to get to the alternator when a friend of mine who own a car audio store mentioned it could be the alternator ground.
> 
> We I check the grown it and doesn't look corroded or loose. I realize the O ring type connector could expand under the heat of the engine. He thought this might be happening and the reason why after sitting for a while she fires and drives. The ground had time to cool down.
> 
> ...





TheLateJetta said:


> Before I even address these other suggestions I have to ask a question.
> Did you replace the blue cap temp sensor in the main coolant flange that is in the front of the engine bay on the drivers side?
> 
> This temp sensor has everything to do with fuel mixture and a faulty one is a very easy way to cause an Idle fault. I keep a spare in my tool kit in the trunk of my Corrado because
> ...





Macks04GLI said:


> THANKS! I haven't done the plugs yet, but they will get done. And plug wires replaced also.
> 
> I have read your reply a few times..and will prob read it a few more. Many thanks. I'll report back soon. :thumbup:





TheLateJetta said:


> Swap out the Blue temp sensor first.
> If that does the trick and the car runs fine, dont do anything else.
> 
> If it doenst work, or works a little bit better. Then clean the ISV.
> ...





Macks04GLI said:


> Will do. Have Bentley will research.
> 
> Since I just acquired the car, I think I'll do the plug anyway. I didn't get a maintenance log with the car so I need to establish a baseline. I plan on keeping her in the collection for a while.
> 
> ...


UPDATE: First thanks to all who added their two cents to my issue. 

Okay, temp sensor is switched out and i'm doing a quick oil change while i had the car up. Plugs, wires, and fuel pump sensor is going in just a few (taking a snack break). Hopefully I'll have here back running today. If so i'll drive it the rest of the day and see what happens. 

Oh i'm going to clean the ISV valve also. Any body know a thread that shows where it lives? Sorry this is my first VR6 so i'm still learning. :beer:


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## Macks04GLI (Jul 20, 2007)

Quick someone tell me what the gap should be for NGK 7E plugs going in my VR6 Stage 1 Kinetics setup? Its non IC right now and only set at 6lbs of boost.

....yes, i'm going to use the search function now, but figure one you guys had it memorized. 

:beer: :beer:


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## jamm585 (Jan 22, 2003)

This may be a noob/retard inquiry, but here goes..... 92 Corrado SLC

The turn signals or 4-way flashers do not work. The relay and the fuse has been replaced. Any ideas??


----------



## onavarro8 (Oct 3, 2006)

So I am planning to change the front ball joints on the rado in a couple of weeks since one of them went bad. This will be my first time trying this and from what I have read it shouldn't be too hard.

I was wondering if anybody recommends replacing the control arms aswell? not sure if I should just replace the bushings or get the complete arms or if I should even mess with that?
Just looking for input thanks!


----------



## MrBland (Jul 9, 2010)

*Control Arm Bushing Sleeve*

Does the sleeve that goes between the rear control arm bushing and the bolt serve any purpose? Is it a necessary part? 

Part in question: Rear Control Arm Bushing Sleeve


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

mattsgota325i said:


> anyone?


Use the emergency latches, located in the belts "closed" position on the "B" pillar, they fold out and belts can be used. 



Das.Rado said:


> So the dowells came loose from my autotech flywheel and carved a nice slice into my bellhousing. Furthermore, my pressure plate bolts ended up coming loose.
> 
> Is this a common flywheel problem that autotech will cover or am i hooped?
> 
> (Corrado VR6)


Sounds like the stretch bolts on the pressure plate came loose, and vibrated the dowell pins out. make sure they torque properly on reassembly. 




MrBland said:


> Does the sleeve that goes between the rear control arm bushing and the bolt serve any purpose? Is it a necessary part?
> 
> Part in question: Rear Control Arm Bushing Sleeve


Not if using. :R32 control arm bushings. I have never used that sleeve on any ca bushing.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Macks04GLI said:


> UPDATE: First thanks to all who added their two cents to my issue.
> 
> Okay, temp sensor is switched out and i'm doing a quick oil change while i had the car up. Plugs, wires, and fuel pump sensor is going in just a few (taking a snack break). Hopefully I'll have here back running today. If so i'll drive it the rest of the day and see what happens.
> 
> Oh i'm going to clean the ISV valve also. Any body know a thread that shows where it lives? Sorry this is my first VR6 so i'm still learning. :beer:


Isv is located to the right of the tb under the engine cover. Follow the hose coming off of the back side of the intake elbow, it ends at the isv


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## Macks04GLI (Jul 20, 2007)

Macks04GLI said:


> Quick someone tell me what the gap should be for NGK 7E plugs going in my VR6 Stage 1 Kinetics setup? Its non IC right now and only set at 6lbs of boost.
> 
> ....yes, i'm going to use the search function now, but figure one you guys had it memorized.
> 
> :beer: :beer:


Okay searched and searched and it looks like .028 is the recommended gap with 18lbs of torque on the tighten.


----------



## vwraaner (May 27, 2011)

vwraaner said:


> I have recently converted to the MK4 rear calipers, and swapped all brake lines to steel braided lines. I have also flushed 3 liters of brake fluid through the system with a ezibleeder just to be sure that there is no air left.
> 
> But now when i park my car with the e-brake on the ABS light either stays on or come on when i drive. *I now suspect that the rear proportioning valve might be sticking?* And when the ABS is working, i can also feel that the ABS is kicking in when it shouldnt (very light braking in slow speed etc) And when it does that the pedal gets significantly harder to press down...
> 
> ...


Bumping this, winter is knocking at the door and i seriously need the ABS to work soon...


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

vwraaner said:


> Bumping this, winter is knocking at the door and i seriously need the ABS to work soon...


Pull the rotors and check condition of the abs rings on the rear rotors. Also, scan the ABS for faults.


----------



## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

Im trying to remove the shifting linkage off my manual trans and place it on my replacement trans. The part sits on top of the trans and looks like this one.










Heres the situation I removed the linkage and taken out the 2 bolts that hold the unit in place in the trans. I started pulling the unit/part out and it stops half way. It seems as if the shaft is connected in some way. 
*Question is how do I get this part out and what is holding it up?*

There is 2 bolts and a plate on the bottom of the trans. Is there something I need to disconnect there?

Your help is appreciated. :thumbup:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Reinstall it, amd make sure the trans is in neutral before you remove it,. If in neutral, it should come out with a slight twist.


----------



## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

Thanks *DUBZAK* I was able to get it out. The problem was I didn't pull on it hard enough. I lifted on it till the trans came off the ground and popped right out. Thanks again :thumbup::beer:


----------



## vwraaner (May 27, 2011)

DUBZAK said:


> Pull the rotors and check condition of the abs rings on the rear rotors. Also, scan the ABS for faults.


I was afraid someone would say that 

I am going to change for winter tyres in a week or so, and i am going to pull all 4 rotors and clean the sensors thoroughly.

But i have discovered a trick to get the ABS working: when i start the car i press the brake pedal slightly at the exact same time as the e-brake light go out, and then i have working ABS! If i dont press the brake pedal the ABS light stays on. 

Maybe i have some air left in the system? My ezibleeder cant take over 20 PSI pressure so maybe i have to get a brake bleeder that use more pressure to get the last air bubbles out? Or maybe i have to replace or make some adjustments on the rear proportioning valve?

Btw i have a 1989 model, and i have read here somewhere that pre 1990 models dont have a connection for scanning the brake system...


----------



## Jon Coulson (Jul 31, 2011)

I need a DIY on replacing my passenger side window regulator.


----------



## crisvr6 (Jun 14, 2007)

Jon Coulson said:


> I need a DIY on replacing my passenger side window regulator.





crazynorweegian said:


> Window regulator replacement / repair info
> 
> Basic DIY
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-At-your-own-risk)&highlight=Window+regulator
> ...


 should help a bit


----------



## Jon Coulson (Jul 31, 2011)

Thanks a bunch


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Does anyone have or know where I can get a clutch master cylinder bleeder screw?? I don't know where the **** I put mine lol


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> Does anyone have or know where I can get a clutch master cylinder bleeder screw?? I don't know where the **** I put mine lol
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


I assume you are talking about the plug? 10mm pipe tap, I may be able to get some this week


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I assume you are talking about the plug? 10mm pipe tap, I may be able to get some this week


Ahh it's a plug. Yeah if you get some, hit me up. If not, I'll search for one.

Thanks!


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## SkybarGTI (Jul 23, 2011)

hey everyone, 
I've always been a bit curious as to what some of the differences are between G60 and VR6 body parts..

like the fenders, bumper and headlights..

I have a 91 G60, I got a VR6 hood for pretty much free, I can tell the obvious difference with the hoods. The g60 hood has an indented center section and the VR one is a little raised, looks much nicer. Also I already know about the foglights and turn indicator differences.

but whats the diff between fenders?? are the VR6 ones a little wider or are the wheel arches bigger to accommodate bigger wheels?? 

I see people selling G60 and VR6 specific e-codes too, whats the diff??

any helpful answers would be super appreciated, I dont know **** about corrado's so much, Ive been a mkv guy for a few years now..


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

SkybarGTI said:


> hey everyone,
> I've always been a bit curious as to what some of the differences are between G60 and VR6 body parts..
> 
> like the fenders, bumper and headlights..
> ...


Hood, fenders, bumpers, headlights, fog lights, bumper signal lights, gas tank, rear floor pan.

Most is different because vr6 has a wider suspension known as plus suspension, amd 5 lug vs 4lug brakes. 

Check the faq and search for the details on the rest, but yes, everything listed is different between the 2 specs.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> Ahh it's a plug. Yeah if you get some, hit me up. If not, I'll search for one.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> ...


Come to think of it, didn't I send you one??? I will do my best to get down there or send Alex over, the supplier is more in his neighborhood anyway


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Come to think of it, didn't I send you one??? I will do my best to get down there or send Alex over, the supplier is more in his neighborhood anyway


Never got one, (I don't thnk???) yeah send Alex! I have to give him a shout and see how he is doing in PSL now :laugh:


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> Never got one, (I don't thnk???) yeah send Alex! I have to give him a shout and see how he is doing in PSL now :laugh:
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


:laugh:

I've got everything in order, he will stop by my supplier tomorrow. I had him get 3, so if you know anyone else that needs one, lemme know. I believe they will be $5 shipped each, but the supplier said the price went up slightly, we shall see tomorrow.

And ya, PSL didn't work out for Alex so far, I think he still has some stuff in the worx :thumbup:


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> :laugh:
> 
> I've got everything in order, he will stop by my supplier tomorrow. I had him get 3, so if you know anyone else that needs one, lemme know. I believe they will be $5 shipped each, but the supplier said the price went up slightly, we shall see tomorrow.
> 
> And ya, PSL didn't work out for Alex so far, I think he still has some stuff in the worx :thumbup:


No problem, car is driveway art for now lol what ever the cost is, isn't a problem so ill send you 10.00. 

Requesting permission to polish it? :laugh:

I'm gonna hit up Alex now, too bad PSL didn't work out.


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> No problem, car is driveway art for now lol what ever the cost is, isn't a problem so ill send you 10.00.
> 
> Requesting permission to polish it? :laugh:
> 
> ...


Cool man, polish away :laugh:

IIRC, PSL is still up in the air for him umpkin:


----------



## OneDay84 (Oct 15, 2012)

Any info on the g lader bypass would be great.....hard to pass up the bbm deal although i feel i could it rebuild my self. Decisions decisions:sly:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

OneDay84 said:


> Any info on the g lader bypass would be great.....hard to pass up the bbm deal although i feel i could it rebuild my self. Decisions decisions:sly:


tons, check out maybe search the G60 technical forum :thumbup:

This would make for a good DIY sticky eace:


----------



## mrbatavus (Nov 29, 2008)

why oh why did vw put the hvac box together the way they did :banghead:
f*** heater cores


----------



## mattsgota325i (Mar 2, 2006)

just got a big box of parts to start fixing the headache that is my corrado hahaha.. i need to replace the master cylinder and its the one of the few things i havent had to do on any of my cars ever.. currently have a 93 corrado vr6 was wondering if anyone had a good DIY or and tips to make the job go as easy as possible


----------



## OneDay84 (Oct 15, 2012)

Novice Tip: if you have a broken sunroof, you might not want to hit 95 plus. I just might want to fly away!! :laugh: On a different note my B4 sunroof assembly will be coming in on Monday, thanks to the forums I feel confident that the install should go without a hitch. :thumbup: BTW anyone know if the standard sunroof seal works with the glass one?


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

OneDay84 said:


> Novice Tip: if you have a broken sunroof, you might not want to hit 95 plus. I just might want to fly away!! :laugh: On a different note my B4 sunroof assembly will be coming in on Monday, thanks to the forums I feel confident that the install should go without a hitch. :thumbup: BTW anyone know if the standard sunroof seal works with the glass one?


Yep... It is a PITA to put on though.


----------



## OneDay84 (Oct 15, 2012)

I have a 90 G60 with the mechanical cluster. The speedo works but the odometer doesn't, is it the cable or the cluster??


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

OneDay84 said:


> I have a 90 G60 with the mechanical cluster. The speedo works but the odometer doesn't, is it the cable or the cluster??


I did a DIY video on the problematic odometer and what to look for and how to repair. Search "odometer correction" there are two vids 


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## OneDay84 (Oct 15, 2012)

Im gonna have to wait on a donor cluster, sunroof and the window regs are a must 1st (im getting rained on):what: sunroof on the way and the reg come next. Scoped out the A1 gonna order the set and tackle both. The list goes on......:screwy: I think ill start a thread and call it ."Common Corrado" love it though. 
Found it on a lot....guy wanted a grand. But it was running weak, had a crazy idle. Checked the forums, came back knew what it was, took it home bout 6 bucks later had it running. Short ECU vac tube :thumbup: That was just the start. My plan is to put function first and do it while keeping it one the road. Going to do most of the work myself.


----------



## Rubberband (Sep 28, 2006)

love this thread.I am thankful it exists.
I am a new rado owner and wanted to know about the ac compressors for a vr6 and what models share the same one. Never see corrados at the junkyards but always see mk3 2.0's and b3 passats.


----------



## sisca (Sep 6, 2012)

*This motherf&*$in door!!*

STILL trying to get my passenger door open, neither handle works. Got the door card off, but cant figure out how to open the door latch! Almost at wits end, any suggestions?


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

sisca said:


> STILL trying to get my passenger door open, neither handle works. Got the door card off, but cant figure out how to open the door latch! Almost at wits end, any suggestions?


Can't you just pull the bar connected to the inner door handle? It probably slipped off as I can't see it breaking


----------



## sisca (Sep 6, 2012)

JamesS said:


> Can't you just pull the bar connected to the inner door handle? It probably slipped off as I can't see it breaking


 Its connected . Ive pulled it,
but nothing.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

I've seen this video that explains how to assemle 3pc wheels when the centers are sandwitch mounted...seems obvious

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7FqNluXsY4&feature=plcp


But what about when the centers are front mounted? What is the correct process on this case? Just want to make sure that I haven't [email protected] up...


----------



## edocdog (Sep 17, 2010)

Need help getting the torque specs for the front end carrier and mounts. Or can someone tell me what page in the Bentley it is?


----------



## smoking_robot (Sep 14, 2012)

****.

so i pulled the authority chip that was in my ECU this evening since i think it was the cause of all my problems and grief (idle going crazy, pinging/knocking, etc)

car is:
1992 VR6 eurotech 264 cams, MSD 6A Ignition control box (Capacitor Discharge Coil) amongst other modifications

I put the ecu back together, reconnected the battery, open the door and the electricity works since dome light came on - go to crank the engine and i hear a crazy clicking sound from the fuse box area and now she wont turn over. headlights will turn on, internal electric still works. but the engine wont turn over.

*
did i do something wrong/forget a step in this? any idea? should this be in its own thread?*

of note - i pulled the battery out when i pulled the ecu to clean under it and check for anything weird/strange underneath. 

I also disconnected the heated windshield washer nozzles as i think they were also the root of fuse 14 constnatly shorting out - when i disconnected the drivers side nozzle, a bunch of water pour out (so maybe that was the problem).

found this thread on another forum ; will fiddle around w/ the relays but sounds just like what im experiencing.


----------



## smoking_robot (Sep 14, 2012)

so i found its relay #'ed 109, or the third relay from left to right. and now im worried i may have fried my ecu somehow as that is the motronic odb1 control unit relay. 

crap i hope i did not install that the stock ecu chip backwards or something stupid.


----------



## OneDay84 (Oct 15, 2012)

How do you fix a corrado that caught on fire???:banghead:


----------



## smoking_robot (Sep 14, 2012)

smoking_robot said:


> so i found its relay #'ed 109, or the third relay from left to right. and now im worried i may have fried my ecu somehow as that is the motronic odb1 control unit relay.
> 
> crap i hope i did not install that the stock ecu chip backwards or something stupid.


well its not relay 109.

EDIT: nm, ECU works, chips fine - needed some cleaning, and cleaned harness pins and connectors etc. Fires right up. problem solved huzzah.


----------



## ajhvw93 (Oct 26, 2009)

OneDay84 said:


> How do you fix a corrado that caught on fire???:banghead:


Easy.... pour on some petro


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

coilover question. 

which coilovers do you think would be best for a ~500hp vrt. iv always been with mkivs and low is all we ever cared about now i want some control along with some good looking ride height. 

kw v1, v2? ST coils? raceland? idk lotta options out there.


----------



## eyepoppet (May 2, 2011)

I'm having issues with drive-ability on my 90 G60. I believe it's a fuel pressure related issue. I hooked a gauge up to the high pressure side of the fuel line (the hose that goes to the fuel rail). so I get in the car and turn the key to the "on" position you can hear/feel the fuel pump relay click and hear the pump prime. the gauge slowly climbs to 11 psi, took about 3-5 seconds. then I turned the motor over and she spit and sputtered a bit but started up. once she starts the needle on the gauge bounced around between 3-5 psi and slowly climbed up to 45 psi took a good 10-15 seconds. what seemed strange to me is how long it took to reach that pressure and how the needle jumped all over the place. I would think that maybe the pump is weak? I'm curious to see what you guys think. The issue I am having is that when I open up the throttle it will rev up like normal but than when it comes back down to idle it will sputter and regain normal idle rpm or just flat out die. the car is pretty low on fuel so I was going to try adding a gal or two to see if this behavior continues.

oh and I was looking at replacement pump from germanautoparts.com and the last 6 of my vin is 005548 so I would assume I have the 3 bar pump. are there ways of switching to the single 4 bar pump?


----------



## titosantana92 (Sep 11, 2004)

92 obd1 corrado. The car has had a automatic trans that got converted to manual and the speedo and the odometer don't work. Took out the gauge cluster n everything seemed fine. Any tips?


----------



## V4310W (Nov 18, 2011)

I know that e-code questions have been beaten to death but I have searched and not found anything like what my issue is. I have a eurowires relayed harness and moved the wire in the headlight switch. Most of the time the lights work as they should, but opposite of what the high beam indicator on my cluster shows. Not an issue I thought. Last night I was driving and randomly the high beams would turn on, then off. No pattern that I could tell. A few hours later driving home, they turned on and wouldn't turn off. Flipping my high beam switch would make the low beam flash to high but the inner high beam lights stayed on. Turned the switch to to the middle position and nothing changed. Even with the car turned off the high beams remained on instead of the city lights. This morning I tried the lights and they worked as they should. What should I be looking at? I'm not an expert in wiring and don't know what to look for. Is it a bad headlight switch? Bad ground? Any help is greatly appreciated.


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

V4310W said:


> I know that e-code questions have been beaten to death but I have searched and not found anything like what my issue is. I have a eurowires relayed harness and moved the wire in the headlight switch. Most of the time the lights work as they should, but opposite of what the high beam indicator on my cluster shows. Not an issue I thought. Last night I was driving and randomly the high beams would turn on, then off. No pattern that I could tell. A few hours later driving home, they turned on and wouldn't turn off. Flipping my high beam switch would make the low beam flash to high but the inner high beam lights stayed on. Turned the switch to to the middle position and nothing changed. Even with the car turned off the high beams remained on instead of the city lights. This morning I tried the lights and they worked as they should. What should I be looking at? I'm not an expert in wiring and don't know what to look for. Is it a bad headlight switch? Bad ground? Any help is greatly appreciated.




I'm not a wiring expert, but it sounds like something isn't wired properly. It also sounds like a relay may be getting stuck in the "on" position, keeping the lights on. Are the headlights relayed?


----------



## V4310W (Nov 18, 2011)

1956dub said:


> I'm not a wiring expert, but it sounds like something isn't wired properly. It also sounds like a relay may be getting stuck in the "on" position, keeping the lights on. Are the headlights relayed?


Yes they are relayed.. I think everything is wired correctly because most of the time they work as they should. I think I'm going to swap headlight switches to see if that is the solution.


----------



## Jon Coulson (Jul 31, 2011)

I have a problem with my blinkers and flashers not working and can't for the life of me figure it out any help would be great thanks.


----------



## cata (May 19, 2006)

Start with replacing the flasher relay and go from there.


----------



## Jon Coulson (Jul 31, 2011)

cata said:


> Start with replacing the flasher relay and go from there.


Which one is it? Lol I'm a corrado newb.


----------



## paul610 (Oct 26, 2010)

are the 2 wire bulb sockets for the turns/ parking lamps the same on any other vw? they fit the 7506 bulbs


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

Car: 91 G60 
Question: Are the front motor mount brackets different between a auto and manual? Thanks in advance. 

David


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

krazy4dubz said:


> Car: 91 G60
> Question: Are the front motor mount brackets different between a auto and manual? Thanks in advance.
> 
> David


yes


----------



## ml1986 (Apr 27, 2012)

So I checked out Forza Horizon, do you really start with a red Corrado VR6?


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

TheBurninator said:


> yes


Thank you!!

My next question, will a front motor mount bracket from a late mk2 work??


----------



## gog60go (Mar 31, 2010)

Smoking_robot Check your ground wires attached to the battery. Mine did this about two weeks ago, it turns out one of the wires came loose.


----------



## mikIIVr6 (Dec 12, 2007)

ok here's the deal, 93 corrado slc, obd2 98 golf vr6 motor

I just took out the obd1 motor, harness and ecu, swapped in the obd2 harness ecu and motor, put in a new timing chain, stage 2 clutch and crack pipe.

Was driving the car all week and then suddenly i turned the car on to fix my parking job, popped it in reverse and it died, now it will crank but not turn over, all i know is that its not getting fuel for sure because I pulled out the hose and nothing comes out when trying to start it. There is also no TB buzz when turned to on position anymore.

Is this what i get for doing an obd2 conversion myself in a weekend with little experience or did something just crap out?

Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

mikIIVr6 said:


> ok here's the deal, 93 corrado slc, obd2 98 golf vr6 motor
> 
> I just took out the obd1 motor, harness and ecu, swapped in the obd2 harness ecu and motor, put in a new timing chain, stage 2 clutch and crack pipe.
> 
> ...


Check the power to the fuel pump. If it has the proper voltage when the key is turned then it's the pump. If no voltage, then you know to check the power supply to it like relay, ignition etc etc.


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## mikIIVr6 (Dec 12, 2007)

I put the pos nd neg together and still no tb buzz and same crank no start, so then I put in another ecu from the exact year car and motor as mine, still nothing, so I chnage the crank/speed sensor... Still nothing, crank not turning over no power coming from the plug to the fuel pump , changed relays still Nothing.


----------



## hi_racing (Jul 6, 2004)

mikIIVr6 said:


> I put the pos nd neg together and still no tb buzz and same crank no start, so then I put in another ecu from the exact year car and motor as mine, still nothing, so I chnage the crank/speed sensor... Still nothing, crank not turning over no power coming from the plug to the fuel pump , changed relays still Nothing.


Just a guess but easy to test at least - ignition switch? You could also try removing the relay and jumping power to the fuel pump to test that wire. Use a fuse on the jumper just in case.


----------



## ajhvw93 (Oct 26, 2009)

*Connector ID*

Brown wire and a grey wire blue stripe.( looks like it's a baby blue wire with dark blue stripe ...Bentley sez no) It's located down thru lower center console. I thought perhaps it was the plug that sits under shifter boot? After looking at the Bentley I thought it was illumination for HVAC but, I thought illumination was included in the 5 pin connecter that plugs into back of HVAC Controls ..or however many pins it was? Thanks much I'm cross eyed from look thru Bentley


----------



## SLC4EVER (Oct 7, 1999)

Ash tray light or lighter light...can't remember which.


----------



## ajhvw93 (Oct 26, 2009)

SLC4EVER said:


> Ash tray light or lighter light...can't remember which.


Thanks, ashtray light works. So, it must be the lighter light?


----------



## ajhvw93 (Oct 26, 2009)

*wasnt it*

That was not it lighter has brown wire grey wire with blue stripe and red pwr wire. Im starting to think it goes to nada


----------



## ajhvw93 (Oct 26, 2009)

Bump


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Ill ask again. Was gonna get rs2 coils by b&g but can't find any sellers in stock. Recommend something else?


----------



## ajhvw93 (Oct 26, 2009)

jettalvr41 said:


> Ill ask again. Was gonna get rs2 coils by b&g but can't find any sellers in stock. Recommend something else?


Have you looked into koni ultra lows? I swear by koni:thumbup:


----------



## titosantana92 (Sep 11, 2004)

Hey wussup, guys. I have a ticking, or knocking noise coming from the alternator side and was wondering what its from. I bought another used alternator from my friend that i put in but the noise is still there. When driving at normals speeds it gets a little loud, like the belt needs changing (changed the belt less than 3 mo ago)

What could this nose be? Could the alternator i bought be bad too? Is it the water pump? hard to say exactly where the noise is coming from. Its like a ticking, grinding nose.


----------



## adavo666 (Sep 4, 2006)

someone knows whats this round tank??on the top of intake m-fold.

can i cut the hoses and shave them off??:banghead:

thanks for help


----------



## vwflygti (Sep 11, 2002)

Looks like your charcoal canister. Although I don't run one I don't recommend removing it until you find a different way to vent the vapors.


----------



## vwflygti (Sep 11, 2002)

titosantana92 said:


> Hey wussup, guys. I have a ticking, or knocking noise coming from the alternator side and was wondering what its from. I bought another used alternator from my friend that i put in but the noise is still there. When driving at normals speeds it gets a little loud, like the belt needs changing (changed the belt less than 3 mo ago)
> 
> What could this nose be? Could the alternator i bought be bad too? Is it the water pump? hard to say exactly where the noise is coming from. Its like a ticking, grinding nose.


I usually start by removing belts for all accessories and start the car. Obviously don't let it run too long without the belts on the water pump. See if noise goes away. Then put back on 1 of 2 belts, and check for noise again...


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

ajhvw93 said:


> Have you looked into koni ultra lows? I swear by koni:thumbup:


Do you mean H&R Ultra Lows? 
I don't remember Koni making an ultra-low coilover...


----------



## adavo666 (Sep 4, 2006)

vwflygti said:


> Looks like your charcoal canister. Although I don't run one I don't recommend removing it until you find a different way to vent the vapors.


thanks...i did serach, and found that it is better to keep it there sitting..):thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## titosantana92 (Sep 11, 2004)

Ended up being the tensioner. Being that the alternator was bad, out was causing stress on that too making it go bad.


----------



## vwflygti (Sep 11, 2002)

titosantana92 said:


> Ended up being the tensioner. Being that the alternator was bad, out was causing stress on that too making it go bad.


:thumbup:


----------



## 93CorradoLover (Nov 16, 2012)

Can anyone help me out with fixing the windshield wipers? I replaced the the wipers and now when you turn the wipers off, they stop in the middle. I turned it off, took the wipers off, put them in the correct position where they're suppose to stop, turned it back on and it still continues to stop right in the middle of the wind shield.


----------



## Nolando (Sep 1, 2012)

*Just a couple of questions n a 1990 g60*










THAT^ pulled it out of cylinder #1 and saw that. I bought the car about 3 months ago and it had an MSD coil and wires in it. I took those out and put new stock parts in. That solved the crossfiring issue. Then i noticed that at high RPM it would hesitate, like there was a bad wire. I tested the wires and they were all good, so then i pulled plugs and.....ding ding.......found it. put a new one in there and the issue seems to be solved but I wanted to get opinions on causes. Injector wiring? injector? Just a detonated plug? I apparently have been running it like that for all the time i've owned it. The other question is that i'm running WAY rich all the time. The car has a stage IV BBM kit in it and im stil running green top injectors. It idles anywhere between 1200 and 1500 RPM unless i put it in gear and let the clutch out until it drops below 1000, then it will idle at normal 850-1000 RPM. any help would be great.

thanks, Nolan.


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

what wing is this? i want one. 
from what i understand its a 3 piece wing. 
but the same wing comes up on google when i search ABD, RIEGER and KAMEI... 
which one is it??


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Reiger, part of the GTO widebody kit.


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

DUBZAK said:


> Reiger, part of the GTO widebody kit.


 sweet thanks. 
now to try to find one...


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## tod914 (Dec 6, 2011)

*Power Steering line question*

1992 SLC. I'm going to flush the PS fluid. Read a bunch of threads on it. Just one question for clarification. From the resevoir down, there is a T fitting for the feed and return line. Which line is the return so I'm pulling the correct one when I do this? The one towards the firewall or the one towards the front bumper? Fat or thin line will clarify too... Thanks, Tod


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## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

I have a question 

I have a G60 manual and I'm putting on a different shift linkage. Now that the linkage is out of the trans. *What should the fluid level be at looking in the linkage hole?*


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## SLC4EVER (Oct 7, 1999)

It should just pour out of the 17mm set screw on the front of the gearbox housing when the car is on level ground. But if you prefer to measure from the shift tower mounting surface, it should be approximately 4.75 inches to the oil level...on level ground.


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## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

SLC4EVER said:


> It should just pour out of the 17mm set screw on the front of the gearbox housing when the car is on level ground. But if you prefer to measure from the shift tower mounting surface, it should be approximately 4.75 inches to the oil level...on level ground.


 Thanks for the quick response  I was told by a mechanic that I wont get an answer and why would someone know that. I told him people know more then the average stuff in this thread (there experts). :laugh: Thanks for the help.


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## SLC4EVER (Oct 7, 1999)

LOL...most of us are too OCD to trust the random mechanic. Glad I could help.


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## G2Performance (Jun 4, 2007)

Seems to be a lot opinions on this so here goes:: The boost return line that goes back into the g60 charger can be rather hot air. Is there a workaround for this? Or is it done this way because if noise? I would like to exhaust the hot air.


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## n2orocco (Feb 26, 2003)

OK. I have a 92' SLC, coolant over flows from the expansion tank through the side, after long drives, or idle. The fans are coming on, and the car is not over heating, happens at about 180 degrees. Thanks


----------



## vwflygti (Sep 11, 2002)

If everything checks out than I would think your cap for your expansion ball is letting coolant go at too low of pressure. Maybe a new one would stop this?


----------



## n2orocco (Feb 26, 2003)

vwflygti said:


> If everything checks out than I would think your cap for your expansion ball is letting coolant go at too low of pressure. Maybe a new one would stop this?


Has a new cap, that was actually the first thing I changed.


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## Venator (Dec 9, 2012)

*How to hook up the boost gauge*

Year: 1990
Model: Corrado
Type:G60
Mods: 35mm turbo, cast iron turbo manifold, aluminum intercooler, stainless 35mm turbo waste gate, fast DC turbo timer, Greddy GS blowoff valve, MK2 GTi overflow tank, bunch of other stuff but that's all I'll list for now. 

I need to know how to hook up my boost gauge, I read on another thread to use the nipple on the front on the intake manifold but that's being used by my blow off valve. Would I be able to use a second T-Bar?

Ability: not very good with cars but I have lots of help from people who know what they're doing. I'm not useless, I can figure stuff out when it comes right down to it.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

93CorradoLover said:


> Can anyone help me out with fixing the windshield wipers? I replaced the the wipers and now when you turn the wipers off, they stop in the middle. I turned it off, took the wipers off, put them in the correct position where they're suppose to stop, turned it back on and it still continues to stop right in the middle of the wind shield.


http://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...my-windeshield...help!?highlight=stuck+wipers


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## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

these are in.pro headlights correct? they look a little better than usual on this C

also, anyone know what grille eyebrow it is?


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

eurobred said:


> these are in.pro headlights correct? they look a little better than usual on this C
> 
> also, anyone know what grille eyebrow it is?


Rieger one piece grille with integrated eyebrow spoiler...
http://www.corrado-database.nl/index.php?item=view_corrado&id=1546

There was also a thread regarding the modifications he did to his headlights (search something along the lines of "InPro" etc)


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Rieger one piece grille with integrated eyebrow spoiler...
> http://www.corrado-database.nl/index.php?item=view_corrado&id=1546
> 
> There was also a thread regarding the modifications he did to his headlights (search something along the lines of "InPro" etc)


ok cool, ill search that grille and see if i can find one.

also, that corrado in the link you posted is not the same as the one i posted.
2 different colors, 2 different drivers. the headlights in the link are N/A lights with projectors retro-fitted.
i was curious to know which ones were in the picture i posted. They look like in.pro but im not sure.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

eurobred said:


> ok cool, ill search that grille and see if i can find one.
> 
> also, that corrado in the link you posted is not the same as the one i posted.
> 2 different colors, 2 different drivers. the headlights in the link are N/A lights with projectors retro-fitted.
> i was curious to know which ones were in the picture i posted. They look like in.pro but im not sure.


I'm 99% sure its the same car and the owner resprayed it that grey colour afterwards...


*edit: while doing some more search I think ^^ I'm wrong - probably not the same car, you're right *








http://images47.fotosik.pl/158/55ea024c8e223eed.jpg
But he is Praks friend so maybe send him a pm, lol


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

RedYellowWhite said:


> I'm 99% sure its the same car and the owner resprayed it that grey colour afterwards...
> 
> 
> *edit: while doing some more search I think ^^ I'm wrong - probably not the same car, you're right *
> ...


lol sweet, i shall PM Praks and see if he knows what kind of headlights they are. if they are in.pro, they are probably the best looking ones i've seen.

thanks!


----------



## mk3vrtspeed (Dec 5, 2011)

98 vr6 gti, will a r32 tranny bolt up to her? Before I go and by it used and put my internals in...


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

mk3vrtspeed said:


> 98 vr6 gti, will a r32 tranny bolt up to her? Before I go and by it used and put my internals in...


Corrado forum... not mk3 forum

And yes it will


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Apparently Corrado VR6 people are automatic MK3 VR6 Experts. Who knew?

And It will bolt up, but the trans mount and front motor mount will not. Good luck


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## DubCorrado (Aug 7, 2009)

*Lug Nuts barely on*

I recently installed spacers and wheels on my Corrado. The problem is that the nuts are barely on, meanig there is still like a litte more than half the threads left. The lug nuts however are torqued down to 70-80lbs. I was wandering is this a stupid idea to run the car this way?


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## vwflygti (Sep 11, 2002)

DubCorrado said:


> I recently installed spacers and wheels on my Corrado. The problem is that the nuts are barely on, meanig there is still like a litte more than half the threads left. The lug nuts however are torqued down to 70-80lbs. I was wandering is this a stupid idea to run the car this way?


Yes. Definitely order longer bolts. I got a set off eBay that was ok. Tmtuning sells some pretty nice one in all different lengths and tapers.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

DubCorrado said:


> I recently installed spacers and wheels on my Corrado. The problem is that the nuts are barely on, meanig there is still like a litte more than half the threads left. The lug nuts however are torqued down to 70-80lbs. I was wandering is this a stupid idea to run the car this way?


You really need an "expert" to answer this question for you???  :screwy:


You need longer lug bolts if you installed anything wider than a 5mm spacer...


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

DubCorrado said:


> I recently installed spacers and wheels on my Corrado. The problem is that the nuts are barely on, meanig there is still like a litte more than half the threads left. The lug nuts however are torqued down to 70-80lbs. I was wandering is this a stupid idea to run the car this way?


Um, yes. 

Extend your bolts for the same length you just added with the spacer noob. :banghead:


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## onavarro8 (Oct 3, 2006)

Question: I am in the process of replacing my control arms and I have read that there are alot of problems with the bolts breaking. I was wondering where to order new bolts for the control arms, I can't find any websites that sell them?

I haven't removed them yet but I am thinking using new ones with the new control arms would be the way to go.


----------



## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

Does anyone have a record what is supposed to be disconnected at the relay box for a 90 G60? I'm replacing the headlight switch harness and I'm finding several plastic single blade connectors disconnected. There seems to be 1 red, 1 yellow, and 3 blacks (2 are male, 1 female). I started tracing the wires to see where they are going. 

1 goes to connector W in the relay box. In the bentley it's just called "Six-point connector green" and its the only wire going into it. Is there a way to tell where wires route within the relay box? Perhaps its explained in the bentley.

A couple other wires appear to be heading into engine bay loom.

I've read there are some diagnostic lines so perhaps these could be them.

-e


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> Um, yes.
> 
> Extend your bolts for the same length you just added with the spacer noob. :banghead:


I can't believe that had to even be asked!!! I guess common sense is gone



onavarro8 said:


> Question: I am in the process of replacing my control arms and I have read that there are alot of problems with the bolts breaking. I was wondering where to order new bolts for the control arms, I can't find any websites that sell them?
> 
> I haven't removed them yet but I am thinking using new ones with the new control arms would be the way to go.


1stvwparts.com or your local dealership. They are 1 time use stretch bolts and should be replaced anyways.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

TheRealEddie said:


> Does anyone have a record what is supposed to be disconnected at the relay box for a 90 G60? I'm replacing the headlight switch harness and I'm finding several plastic single blade connectors disconnected. There seems to be 1 red, 1 yellow, and 3 blacks (2 are male, 1 female). I started tracing the wires to see where they are going.
> 
> 1 goes to connector W in the relay box. In the bentley it's just called "Six-point connector green" and its the only wire going into it. Is there a way to tell where wires route within the relay box? Perhaps its explained in the bentley.
> 
> ...


Some aren't connected. You will need to read through the bentley diagrams and double check them. Make sure you look at the wire color not the connector itself. Some of the connectors don't go to a matching colored connector.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Replacing the rear wing? Anyhows?


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## onavarro8 (Oct 3, 2006)

blackslcchild said:


> Replacing the rear wing? Anyhows?


Removing the wing is easy I just installed the sft extended rear wing a couple of days ago. When the wing is in the up position there are two hex key bolts that you have to unscrew. Once those are off the wing comes right out.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

^^^its not working at the moment. I've gotten another replacement.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

TheRealEddie said:


> Is there a way to tell where wires route within the relay box? Perhaps its explained in the bentley.
> -e


Yep, 
At the top of every page is the fuse/relay panel internal circuits diagram. It's the gray box that looks like the staff latticework in music. 
It'll have circuits 30, 15, 31, X, 50, B+, etc...
All wires will terminate at one of those circuits or a relay that will act as a bridge to said circuits.


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## onavarro8 (Oct 3, 2006)

blackslcchild said:


> ^^^its not working at the moment. I've gotten another replacement.


Oh ok. If you open the hatch, there is a panel on the inside of the hatch you remove to access the wing motor if you need to replace that, and I know there is a way to manualy move the wing up and down (im pretty sure there is a thread on how to do this).

Edit: http://www.corradocentral.com/spoilertech.htm


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## Gettaguy1.8t (Dec 3, 2012)

I need some solid directions for evap/sai/hockey puck valve delete for a 1.8t awd engine code. The ones I found were mainly aww and awp. I dnt wanna f*** this up.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Gettaguy1.8t said:


> I need some solid directions for evap/sai/hockey puck valve delete for a 1.8t awd engine code. The ones I found were mainly aww and awp. I dnt wanna f*** this up.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2


Try this one. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?t=4893472


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## DaddyMassacre (Jul 29, 2010)

*OK im sorry ahead of time!!!*

ok so i need my car running like asap, but i dont wanna lose my PG so i figure ill get something new for my 90 rado... so here come my string of questions and some what solutions i got from searching

i want to do a 1.8t swap into the corrado

what would i need for the swap?(by reading the best way to go would be a AEB passat,a4 1.8t for my tranny bolts right on)

would i be able to use the same ECU?

so ill give my insight on the project... first ill start by stating this will be for daily use purpose, so if i get the parts no moding will be done at first(because of tight budget, and small window of time i got) now i havent heard of anyone needing custom axels or things like that so far but would like more info on this... now im confident i can do most of the work if its almost as simple as bolt on, but that is why im asking. also im looking at a parts car that i can get on a cheap from a friend so parts might not be an issue 

now for my last request

if you have info you are welcome to reply to this, but im sure i have asked before and my question got lost in this thread so if you have any info to share plz do it by PMing me


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## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

DaddyMassacre said:


> ok so i need my car running like asap, but i dont wanna lose my PG so i figure ill get something new for my 90 rado... so here come my string of questions and some what solutions i got from searching
> 
> i want to do a 1.8t swap into the corrado
> 
> ...


From what I've read, I don't think its as easy as it sounds. Go to the technical forums then click on the g60 thread and you'll find a thread dedicated to the 20v swap.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I have another one.
Every time I press the brake it sinks in and then it kinda builds hard pressure and it comes back up again. During the process, I hear and feel a buzzing sound. When I apply the brake the abs light comes on. The brakes work fine though?

Also my automatic seatbelts don't engage when I put the key in the ignition. Diagram, switches, relays, connections?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> I have another one.
> Every time I press the brake it sinks in and then it kinda builds hard pressure and it comes back up again. During the process, I hear and feel a buzzing sound. When I apply the brake the abs light comes on. The brakes work fine though?
> 
> Also my automatic seatbelts don't engage when I put the key in the ignition. Diagram, switches, relays, connections?


http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14159

http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14341


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## DaddyMassacre (Jul 29, 2010)

g60301 said:


> From what I've read, I don't think its as easy as it sounds. Go to the technical forums then click on the g60 thread and you'll find a thread dedicated to the 20v swap.


all I found was a hybrid thread... I'm looking into doing the full swap... I wanna pull out my pg for it needs a rebuild but I need my car running... I was hoping people will give me some insight or talk to people who have done the swap themselves


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

DaddyMassacre said:


> all I found was a hybrid thread... I'm looking into doing the full swap... I wanna pull out my pg for it needs a rebuild but I need my car running... I was hoping people will give me some insight or talk to people who have done the swap themselves


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?t=5634051
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?t=5798059

There are very good detailed threads about the 20v swap. The ones above are excellent, but I hope you know it's not a weekend swap


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DaddyMassacre said:


> all I found was a hybrid thread... I'm looking into doing the full swap... I wanna pull out my pg for it needs a rebuild but I need my car running... I was hoping people will give me some insight or talk to people who have done the swap themselves


You'd be amazed at how much custom fab work is involved in any non-familiar swap. I'm sure you can google to find something.


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## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

http:// http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1674618-20V-Hybrid-How-To


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

g60301 said:


> http:// http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1674618-20V-Hybrid-How-To


Yield Josh 

https://www.google.com/search?q=1.8...&sugexp=chrome,mod=4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8


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## Dean538 (Dec 19, 2012)

I know it needs to be opened up and cleaned out, but the really good thread that showed how to do this no longer has pics...http://www.*******.com/09ht.jpg


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Ok another one.
My spoiler does not work. Is there anything I'm missing here?
Control module and.......?









My hood cable is broken also, is there another way I can get my hood open? 

I also can't open the gas lid....
Dang it.:thumbdown:


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> Ok another one.
> My spoiler does not work. Is there anything I'm missing here?
> Control module and.......?
> 
> ...


Hood cable
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?847314-In-progress...Hood-release-cable-How-to-page

http://gruvenparts.com/website/cart/cart.php?target=product&product_id=344&category_id=60

Fuel door
http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13410


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

mateok said:


> Hood cable
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?847314-In-progress...Hood-release-cable-How-to-page
> 
> http://gruvenparts.com/website/cart/cart.php?target=product&product_id=344&category_id=60
> ...


Thank you sir!:beer:
I'll have to pull with pliers and recover the black plastic cover.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Ok I'm almost there. lolz
I'm wondering what are the specific screws/bolts that I need in order to install the front bumper?
Thanks.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> Ok I'm almost there. lolz
> I'm wondering what are the specific screws/bolts that I need in order to install the front bumper?
> Thanks.


N 903 059 01 hexagon bolt M10X73X32 - 4
N 010 238 20 " " M8X15 - 6
311 821 143 hex. hd. self-tap bolt (combi) - 4
N 015 946 1 hex. head panel screw 6,5X19 - 5
N 905 338 01 fitted bolt, self-locking 6,3X9X30 - 5

You also need ten of the bumper clips that are NLA


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

You are the man!

My bumper is peeling horrendously.
I think I'm just going for a full respray next month.

Thanks again sir!:thumbup:


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## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

Hey guys,

Quick question: I did a search and it looks like the Mk3 A-pillar trim clips are needed to attach the euro a-pillar trim while doing the eurobelt swap. Is it any Mk3 vehicle? Golf, Jetta, etc? And it is indeed the a-pillar trim clips?

thanks,
eddie


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## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

Follow up:

How do I remove the plastic trim that runs along the door sill in the interior and keeps the carpet in place? I didn't see anything in the Bentley. I'm thinking it snaps in place but I don't want to pry it without direction for fear of breaking it. I need to remove this piece so that I can install the eurobelt.

thanks,
eddie


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## yip (Jul 14, 2003)

TheRealEddie said:


> Follow up:
> 
> How do I remove the plastic trim that runs along the door sill in the interior and keeps the carpet in place? I didn't see anything in the Bentley. I'm thinking it snaps in place but I don't want to pry it without direction for fear of breaking it. I need to remove this piece so that I can install the eurobelt.
> 
> ...


Give it a good tug and she will pull up.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

mateok said:


> ...You also need ten of the bumper clips that are NLA


SpoonFedTuning to the rescue 
http://spoonfedtuning.myshopify.com/collections/corrado/products/corrado-bumper-clips


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## girdwood (Mar 10, 2004)

*Sunroof?*

Corrado sunroof pieces; are they interchangeable with other cars? My Corrado came with the glass sunroof (which I gather is out of a B3/B4). Whatever it came with, the rear 'drain-tray' piece is cracked to hell; can I use a B3/B4/Corrado one to replace it? Or is it specific to that actual sunroof?


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## Gettaguy1.8t (Dec 3, 2012)

http://db.tt/rHSvYOh5

Can anyone make sense of this please? Very odd this is happening, and thats a link to a video. No spam. 

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2


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## Dorrado (Dec 12, 2001)

When doing a brake job the brake disc set screw was such a POS that the head snapped off when trying to remove it. I have tried to drill it out and am having a hell of a time. Is it ok to drive it without the set screw to the mechanics? the rotor would just be floating with the 5 lugs to "center" it.

thanks


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## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

Dorrado said:


> When doing a brake job the brake disc set screw was such a POS that the head snapped off when trying to remove it. I have tried to drill it out and am having a hell of a time. Is it ok to drive it without the set screw to the mechanics? the rotor would just be floating with the 5 lugs to "center" it.
> 
> thanks


You are talking about the screw that basically holds the rotor in place until it gets clamped down by the wheel? Just for reference, I've rallied hundreds of stage miles on mk2 and mk3 GTI rotors (4-lug) without that screw in place.... I believe its there just to center the rotor before it gets clamped to the hub via the wheel and lugs. IMO if there is no imbalance felt in the steering wheel, you're fine. 

YMMV.

-e


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## vr6slc92 (Dec 26, 2012)

*92 corrado slc vr6*

Whats up guys. Im new to the site and hope to learn alot from you guys. 
I recently got my first VW. I was skeptical on getting one because all the electrical issues i used to hear about them. So i bought a Corrado Slc Vr6 and it seems to be having some electrical problems lol!! smh to my own self. 

1) When i honk the horn the wipers turn on lol!
2) when i hit a big bump the wipers turn on.
3) my turn signals dont work
4) my emergency lights stays lit without flashing.
5) when i turn off the car and take out the keys from the ignition a humming sound is heard from he rear of the car and i think thats the reason why my NEW battery keeps dying  
6) my Seat belts wont move forward or back .

Im not mechanically inclined and could use some help guys. This is my first VW and want to hold on to it for a while if i can. I live in Danbury CT and all the help i can get would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys let me know what could be causing this or if anyone ever had issues like this. Lets get this fixed!! lol thanks VWVORTEX!


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

vr6slc92 said:


> Whats up guys. Im new to the site and hope to learn alot from you guys.
> I recently got my first VW. I was skeptical on getting one because all the electrical issues i used to hear about them. So i bought a Corrado Slc Vr6 and it seems to be having some electrical problems lol!! smh to my own self.
> 
> 1) When i honk the horn the wipers turn on lol!
> ...


Start by replacing your ignition switch.

Then disconnect the seat belt relays so they don't kill your battery or burn your car down.


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## vr6slc92 (Dec 26, 2012)

TheBurninator said:


> Start by replacing your ignition switch.
> 
> Then disconnect the seat belt relays so they don't kill your battery or burn your car down.


what the hell! lol it could burn the car down? lol wow. and by replacing the ignition switch it could cause all those problems to occur? my ignition switch actually is a pain in the ass to turn sometimes now that i think of it. I insert the key and it feels stuck. I have to Jimmy it a few times before it actually turns and cranks.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

vr6slc92 said:


> 1) When i honk the horn the wipers turn on lol!
> 2) when i hit a big bump the wipers turn on.
> 3) my turn signals dont work
> 4) my emergency lights stays lit without flashing.
> ...


1. The wipers and horn are on the same track. They both share a BR/BL wire. It goes from the windshield wiper switch to the horn relay. Locate that wire and check its condition. 
2. Probably related to #1
3. Turn signal and emergency flashers are on the same track. Both terminate on the turn stalk. You need to pop open the clamshell and look around. That wiring runs across a lot of metal and is not wrapped. 
4. Probably related to #3
5. That humming sound is probably your vacuum pump. That should stop after a few seconds. Not enough to kill your battery. Check for a leak. The seatbelt issue however, will. 
Check the fuse for the seatbelt. It's an auxiliary mounted fuse located above the fuse box.

The Corrado is a German car, not British. If it has electrical issues it's because it's been passed from one hack to the next.


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## vr6slc92 (Dec 26, 2012)

mateok said:


> 1. The wipers and horn are on the same track. They both share a BR/BL wire. It goes from the windshield wiper switch to the horn relay. Locate that wire and check its condition.
> 2. Probably related to #1
> 3. Turn signal and emergency flashers are on the same track. Both terminate on the turn stalk. You need to pop open the clamshell and look around. That wiring runs across a lot of metal and is not wrapped.
> 4. Probably related to #3
> ...



bro thanks man!! ill try and figure it out. Thanks guys for helping me out!! 

Anyone in the CT area who works on vws?? because if i can figure this out then ill need help. let me know im located in danbury ct. Need this fixed asap.


----------



## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

yip said:


> Give it a good tug and she will pull up.


Thanks Ray, spot on. :beer:


----------



## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

Dear Experts,

Up next in my G60 rebuild is the installation of the BBM fuel rail. So, what's the consensus on the after run switch? Add a fitting for it or just leave it off? BBM makes you work if you want to keep it. Seems like I see many people saying it was meant to help prevent vapor lock. I haven't seen anyone report problems with it off, and on the contrary its come up more than once that its a common cause of battery draining issues. 

So, what say you? Ditch it? 

-e


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

vr6slc92 said:


> my ignition switch actually is a pain in the ass to turn sometimes now that i think of it. I insert the key and it feels stuck. I have to Jimmy it a few times before it actually turns and cranks.


It's highly unlikely that would be attributed to the ignition switch itself. More likely a faulty steering wheel lock or lock cylinder. 
If moving the steering wheel from side to side while turning improves it, look at the wheel lock. 
If jiggling the key improves it, look for a binding lock tumbler. The factory applied grease is broken down by now. Just like the seat belt track grease that's probably running down your B pillar trim. Spray contact cleaner into the lock cylinder to clean it. Apply some silicon spray after.


----------



## yip (Jul 14, 2003)

TheRealEddie said:


> Dear Experts,
> 
> Up next in my G60 rebuild is the installation of the BBM fuel rail. So, what's the consensus on the after run switch? Add a fitting for it or just leave it off? BBM makes you work if you want to keep it. Seems like I see many people saying it was meant to help prevent vapor lock. I haven't seen anyone report problems with it off, and on the contrary its come up more than once that its a common cause of battery draining issues.
> 
> ...


The early BBM rails had the fuel pressure switch which I had on my first motor setup. On my second setup I went with the newer version that didn't have the switch. 

I can honestly say that I had restart/starting issues that I felt was related to not having the switch. 

If I was driving the car and turned it off at full temp and then jumped back in shortly after and tried to restart sometimes she would just crank. If I let her sit for a bit then she would fire right up.


----------



## renn16v (Jun 5, 2006)

*voltage draw*

Hey guys. I got a 1993 slc Corrado. My prob is i have a current draw and my battery dies after 2 days of not starting the car. I want to save time on diagnoseing the problem. Any ideas or common issues with the electrical harness? Ps battery is new and alternator is good. Ty


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

renn16v said:


> Hey guys. I got a 1993 slc Corrado. My prob is i have a current draw and my battery dies after 2 days of not starting the car. I want to save time on diagnoseing the problem. Any ideas or common issues with the electrical harness? Ps battery is new and alternator is good. Ty


Unfortunately fast and testing for an electrical draw don't play nice together. 
If you want a quick test, pull your auto seat belt fuse. 
Short of that, you have to do a draw test. Do that with a multimeter set to amps. Disconnect the negative cable and attach the negative output from the multimeter to it. Attach the positive output to the positive battery terminal. Observe the readings before and after each fuse pull. Start with the largest consumers and work your way down. 
Don't forget to close the door before checking the readings.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

renn16v said:


> Hey guys. I got a 1993 slc Corrado. My prob is i have a current draw and my battery dies after 2 days of not starting the car. I want to save time on diagnoseing the problem. Any ideas or common issues with the electrical harness? Ps battery is new and alternator is good. Ty


http://flashoffroad.com/electrical/Batteries/BatteryDrain.html



mateok said:


> Unfortunately fast and testing for an electrical draw don't play nice together.
> If you want a quick test, pull your auto seat belt fuse.
> Short of that, you have to do a draw test. Do that with a multimeter set to amps. Disconnect the negative cable and attach the negative output from the multimeter to it. Attach the positive output to the positive battery terminal. Observe the readings before and after each fuse pull. Start with the largest consumers and work your way down.
> Don't forget to close the door before checking the readings.


:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## pedrosan (Feb 6, 2005)

Hey guys. 90 g60.
Anytime the climate is set to defrost my idle surges. My ac comp does 
not work. Short of fixing the ac, any known fixes? 
Any help appreciated.


----------



## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

yip said:


> The early BBM rails had the fuel pressure switch which I had on my first motor setup. On my second setup I went with the newer version that didn't have the switch.
> 
> I can honestly say that I had restart/starting issues that I felt was related to not having the switch.
> 
> If I was driving the car and turned it off at full temp and then jumped back in shortly after and tried to restart sometimes she would just crank. If I let her sit for a bit then she would fire right up.


That's a good data point. Thanks Ray. I'm going to go without it and see how things go. My long(er) term plan is to replace all the fuel lines under the car so at that point I'll replace the after run switch if I have similar issues.

-e


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## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

Today's mystery:

My G60 had this remote starter relay installed on it for some odd reason. It's basically from an old ford setup which was used when starters didn't have relays built into them. Basically the ignition switch 12V from the ignition switch is wired to the relay enable ("S" terminal) which then connects the solonoid/relay pin on the starter to 12V. Seems awfully redundant and I'm not sure why anyone would to do this. Is this another one of those Corrado things that peeps do?

This is what it looks like:









While I'm removing all the wires held together with just electrical tape and wires held with wire nuts :screwy: might as well make the wiring kosher. Three cheers for the Bentley wiring diagrams .


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

That's horrific, man. 
It looks like a relay from a Ford model T. 
And new Corrado owners wonder why their car's have electrical issues...


----------



## renn16v (Jun 5, 2006)

I had a feeling the seatbelt is a problem because it stops woeking when it feels like it. Will do the tests and repost when i find the problem. Thank you for the time and info. Cheers. :beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

renn16v said:


> I had a feeling the seatbelt is a problem because it stops woeking when it feels like it. Will do the tests and repost when i find the problem. Thank you for the time and info. Cheers. :beer:


Seatbelts and ABS are known to be battery killers :thumbup:


----------



## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

*g60 supercharger*

is $200 canadian dollars a good price for a supercharger with 30000km?


----------



## yip (Jul 14, 2003)

VWcorrado1994 said:


> is $200 canadian dollars a good price for a supercharger with 30000km?


I don't ever recommend buying a charger without seeing the condition of the insides. 

I also don't ever take anyones word on mileage. Pics of the displacer etc will give a better indication of it's wear or potential issues. 

I've had multiple rebuilt chargers that needed new apex strips between 8,000-10,000 miles.

If the seller can provide pictures and everything looks good and is rebuildable and not needing any repairs then it's a fair deal at that price.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Yep^^
And if the seller is unwilling to provide evidence that the displacer is in good shape, walk away.


----------



## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

i know the guy really well and he bought the car a month ago with a rebuilt engine that has 55000km on it. the supercharger is still on the car and the car is running. is there any other way to test if the supercharger is good with out taking it apart?


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

If its still on the car and running, sure you can check it out. 
I drove mine for a while with half the apex strips in the intercooler. That was back in the mid '90's before people started rebuilding them. There was no noticeably weird noises, however. The power loss was quite noticeable. 
If you can drive it, flip the MFA over and check the vacuum readings while accelerating. 
Another option is to take the belt off the pulley and spin it by hand. 
Unfortunately, neither of those will tell you the condition of the displacer scrolls. You have to take it apart for that.

This is what you're trying to avoid...


----------



## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

mateok said:


> That's horrific, man.
> It looks like a relay from a Ford model T.
> And new Corrado owners wonder why their car's have electrical issues...


Ha! No kidding, the wire nuts were on the grounds!

By the way, does anyone have nice pics of all of the stock grounding locations for a G60? The bentley identifies them by name but isn't too descriptive on some of them. Below I use the numbering in the Bentley for a 1990 G60.

Ground Connections:
*1 - battery to body *-> Where on body? I'm presuming a threaded stud on the inside face of the drivers side quarter panel near the battery. Or, there are also studs on the frame horn. Any particular one? I'm not concerned about these two, I'm sure either stud on the left chassis horn will work.
*2 - transmission to body* -> Same place as the battery above?
*14 - on transmission* -> obvious enough, but arent there 2 ground points? The tranny bolt and the tranny bracket?
*17 - intake manifold* -> I'm guessing I'll find a bolt for it somewhere but a pic would help. 
*29 - near intake manifold* -> Um, huh?
*30 - Beside relay panel* -> Is this the conduction bar above the relay panel? 
*43 - on lower A pillar right* -> obvious enough
*46 - near relay panel *-> Hmm, maybe this is the conduction bar above the relay panel? Two separate items marked "Near" and "Beside" doesn't help identify them. 

I know there is a ground bolt on the valve cover. I'm surprised that isn't called out, unless that's *29 - near intake manifold*. Also, isn't there a ground location on the left kick panel/lower A-pillar area? I believe that's for the radio, maybe thats *30 - beside the relay panel *and* 46 - near relay panel* is the conduction bar above it?

I haven't tried identifying them myself yet but if anyone is bored enough to take a shot at pointing out the locations I would appreciate it.  I'm still RTFM on this one.

-e


----------



## girdwood (Mar 10, 2004)

girdwood said:


> Corrado sunroof pieces; are they interchangeable with other cars? My Corrado came with the glass sunroof (which I gather is out of a B3/B4). Whatever it came with, the rear 'drain-tray' piece is cracked to hell; can I use a B3/B4/Corrado one to replace it? Or is it specific to that actual sunroof?


Anyone? I know the B3/B4 assemblies can be swapped into the Corrados, but can I use a B3/B4/Corrado drain-tray, or is it specific?


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

TheRealEddie said:


> Ha! No kidding, the wire nuts were on the grounds!
> 
> By the way, does anyone have nice pics of all of the stock grounding locations for a G60? The bentley identifies them by name but isn't too descriptive on some of them. Below I use the numbering in the Bentley for a 1990 G60.
> 
> ...


It's difficult to find an unmolested, as it left the factory, Corrado with its factory grounds. 
I've put several clutches in mine and if I'm honest, failed to reinstall the transmission grounds. 
A few years back, I decided to replace all my cables. My battery cables and the chassis grounds were turning green. I decided against what was done in that write up. Not because of its function but it's form. I bought all new cables from VW. To replace all ETKA listed cables was around $500. 

This write up gives pretty accurate pictures of their locations. Some appear to be redundant but, it's up to you. 

http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6014


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

girdwood said:


> Anyone? I know the B3/B4 assemblies can be swapped into the Corrados, but can I use a B3/B4/Corrado drain-tray, or is it specific?


I'm not exactly sure what part you're referring to. If you mean the frame with sliding tilt actuator or the part that the drain hoses connect to, then yes. 
The main group and sub group part numbers are the same so it's interchangeable between the two.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

So I installed new pigtails and junk on the corrado....everything works except the back up rear lights.

Is there a specific headlight bulb that I need because the normal lights are dark as heck? Putting the high beams on during the night barely gives me "normal" light.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

So I installed new pigtails and junk on the corrado....everything works except the back up rear lights.

Is there a specific headlight bulb that I need because the normal lights are dark as heck? Putting the high beams on during the night barely gives me "normal" light.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

blackslcchild said:


> So I installed new pigtails and junk on the corrado....everything works except the back up rear lights.
> 
> Is there a specific headlight bulb that I need because the normal lights are dark as heck? Putting the high beams on during the night barely gives me "normal" light.


Might as well just buy up some stock in candles :laugh:

NA headlights are junk, get euro's, make sure you relay said euro's. I forget I even have highbeams


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> So I installed new pigtails and junk on the corrado....everything works except the back up rear lights.
> 
> Is there a specific headlight bulb that I need because the normal lights are dark as heck? Putting the high beams on during the night barely gives me "normal" light.


What components did you install the pigtail connector for?
Were your back up lights working prior to the changes?
How did you attach the pigtails?

Back up lights use fuse S14 (10A), check that.
If good, check the switch and it's wiring. 
If good, check the actual bulbs. 

Do you have NA headlights or Ecodes?
Did you install pigtails for those as well?
I'm asking more questions than you did so, I need more information to help.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I will take pictures of everything ^^^.

The car had euro headlights but, the previous owner took the pigtails and headlights. 

I'm almost there! Next month I'll have the front windshield replaced and through emissions! Hopefully by the end of January it will have a complete respray.


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## girdwood (Mar 10, 2004)

mateok said:


> I'm not exactly sure what part you're referring to. If you mean the frame with sliding tilt actuator or the part that the drain hoses connect to, then yes.
> The main group and sub group part numbers are the same so it's interchangeable between the two.


Thanks! I was talking about the part the drain hoses connect to. :thumbup:


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

First time doing this.









Missing something?


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Are you asking a question or is this a quiz?
You're missing the parking light. 

Actually, it looks like you have the brown and white wires reversed on your new pigtail.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

I'd say someone did a model T ricer remote starter kit on your car.




TheRealEddie said:


> Today's mystery:
> 
> My G60 had this remote starter relay installed on it for some odd reason. It's basically from an old ford setup which was used when starters didn't have relays built into them. Basically the ignition switch 12V from the ignition switch is wired to the relay enable ("S" terminal) which then connects the solonoid/relay pin on the starter to 12V. Seems awfully redundant and I'm not sure why anyone would to do this. Is this another one of those Corrado things that peeps do?
> 
> ...


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

mateok said:


> Are you asking a question or is this a quiz?
> You're missing the parking light.
> 
> Actually, it looks like you have the brown and white wires reversed on your new pigtail.


Shoot
I was Kinda confused on which wire goes where( black with white or brown.lol). Also kinda confused on the black pigtail hanging there.

I will swap them asap. I'm missing the parking socket.


----------



## IMWALKIN (Mar 28, 2002)

where to purchase an HD vr6 strut bearing kit for an my 90 g60...its going to have ground controls so I do not need the spring top...


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

IMWALKIN said:


> where to purchase an HD vr6 strut bearing kit for an my 90 g60...its going to have ground controls so I do not need the spring top...


I'm buying my kit from Keith at TheDubNutz
http://www.tdnparts.com/


Always quality oem parts, top notch customer service and a great (Corrado) guy too. 
He quoted a price very cheaper than an other known VW part store...


----------



## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

Have a question? I have a G60 with about a half inch camber and a little bit of toe in the rear. I would like to fix this. What are those using to correct this? Thanks for yr thoughts. :thumbup:


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

^^Numerous kits are available. This is just one. 
http://www.eurosportacc.com/collections/suspension/camber-bolts-kits

Write up on it. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4394335-DIY-Rear-Camber-Shims


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

So they are reversed? How about that black pigtail hanging there?


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> So they are reversed? How about that black pigtail hanging there?


Does your outside air temp work?
If not, see if that goes to the sensor. W/R is that.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Yes the outside temperature work. How would I get the parking lights in?

So my wires are definitely inaccurate?


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

girdwood said:


> Anyone? I know the B3/B4 assemblies can be swapped into the Corrados, but can I use a B3/B4/Corrado drain-tray, or is it specific?


Added some more info on the guts of the B3 / B4 sunroof Click to go to end of post


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

This is what I need!

Can anyone confirm my wires are wrong? Please.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> This is what I need!
> 
> Can anyone confirm my wires are wrong? Please.


Yes, as I've already mentioned, you're missing the parking light (wire and all). 

What's wrong with your headlights? Do they not work or are they pathetically dim like all NA headlights?


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

They work, just pathetically low.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> First time doing this.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


A little more information about the problem would be helpful. 
Your headlights used to be brighter?
The reason you installed new pigtails?

As you can see, you have the brown and white wires reversed on your new pigtail. Although the clip is broken off mine, the orientation is the same. Which leads to my next question, where is your old headlight connector?









Also, those crimp connectors belong in the trash. Headlights are extremely sensitive to voltage. Which is why most people use relays to subvert voltage loss. Those connectors are made of aluminum. When aluminum is exposed to H2O, it forms aluminum oxide, a terrible conductor of electricity.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Thank you.

The car had euro e codes before I purchased it. The previous owner took the headlights and pigtails along with everything I'm missing.
This is the first time I've wired a headlight pigtail and "crimped" the wiring. What should I do?
What should be the appropriate way of doing the whole pigtail thing?
Where can I get the parking light setup posted above with the yellow input?


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Oh hai


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

HavokRuels said:


> Oh hai
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


:wave:


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Sr. Karmann said:


> :wave:


:beer: 


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## redcorradog60 (Aug 17, 2002)

1990 g60 no mods that I am aware of ! And hardly any knowledge of engines ! Question is I bypassed supercharger and my motor runs rough as hell until I get over 2000 rpms ! Is this normal


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

redcorradog60 said:


> 1990 g60 no mods that I am aware of ! And hardly any knowledge of engines ! Question is I bypassed supercharger and my motor runs rough as hell until I get over 2000 rpms ! Is this normal


Could be as simple as a vacuum leak. Check for any possible leaks and do a tune-up with OEM Bosch spark plugs, W6DPO IIRC


----------



## redcorradog60 (Aug 17, 2002)

Now I know this is dumb but how do I post pocs


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

redcorradog60 said:


> Now I know this is dumb but how do I post pocs


I assume you mean pics. 

I believe it's in the FAQ, but you have to have the pics on a host site like photobucket, and then use the source code, see the little image icon in all reply or originating posts.


----------



## redcorradog60 (Aug 17, 2002)

I figured that out but I just can't get them to work


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

redcorradog60 said:


> I figured that out but I just can't get them to work


Do the links have the


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> Thank you.
> 
> The car had euro e codes before I purchased it. The previous owner took the headlights and pigtails along with everything I'm missing.
> This is the first time I've wired a headlight pigtail and "crimped" the wiring. What should I do?
> ...


You should braid the exposed copper strands together, creating a strong mechanical bond. Use solder to fill the entire joint. Then slide your heat shrink into place, completing the repair. 

You can acquire the parking light wire from multiple sources. There's nothing special about it. 
Hit up thetatau87, amazing prices, no problems...ever


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

mateok said:


> You should braid the exposed copper strands together, creating a strong mechanical bond. Use solder to fill the entire joint. Then slide your heat shrink into place, completing the repair.
> 
> You can acquire the parking light wire from multiple sources. There's nothing special about it.
> Hit up thetatau87, amazing prices, no problems...ever


Thank you greatly sir! Very appreciated.:beer:


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> Thank you greatly sir! Very appreciated.:beer:


Use quality solder, silver solder. It's found at electronic stores. 
Don't use the plumbing stuff at Home Depot.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

blackslcchild said:


> Thank you greatly sir! Very appreciated.:beer:


A quick little tip, when you go get your solder, buy some alligator clips, take a piece of coat hanger and bend in a U, with 90* ends, cut the ends so they are same length like an extra set of hands, cheap and works wonders :thumbup:

Soldering is the way to go for splicing any wiring :thumbup:



mateok said:


> Use quality solder, silver solder. It's found at electronic stores.
> Don't use the plumbing stuff at Home Depot.


I use stuff with flux, rosin core. I've done justg a few harnesses


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I use stuff with flux, rosin core. I've done justg a few harnesses


Yea, forgot to mention the flux. Silver solder doesn't have a flux core. 
You'll never get it to weep into the wires without it. Thanks.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

mateok said:


> Yea, forgot to mention the flux. Silver solder doesn't have a flux core.
> You'll never get it to weep into the wires without it. Thanks.


This is not true.

I use silver solder with no flux all the time. All about the heat control. 
Flux and rosin core solder contaminates the solder joint and can cause corrosion down the road.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

TheBurninator said:


> This is not true.
> 
> I use silver solder with no flux all the time. All about the heat control.
> Flux and rosin core solder contaminates the solder joint and can cause corrosion down the road.


So do I. 
I was talking to the guy who doesn't and has never soldered. He has his wires crimped at the moment. 
I don't expect him to know how to properly tin his Weller soldering iron and know when it's ready to accept solder. A little flux for a beginner is perfectly acceptable.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> Flux and rosin core solder contaminates the solder joint and can cause corrosion down the road.


This I did not know 

Use RC everywhere, haven't had any issues


----------



## redcorradog60 (Aug 17, 2002)

When u take the stock air box out of the g60 do u have to plug the hoses going to the carbon canister


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

mateok said:


> So do I.
> I was talking to the guy who doesn't and has never soldered. He has his wires crimped at the moment.
> I don't expect him to know how to properly tin his Weller soldering iron and know when it's ready to accept solder. A little flux for a beginner is perfectly acceptable.


Agreed. It is good to learn with. But it is a crutch for proper solder technique :thumbup:



Sr. Karmann said:


> This I did not know
> 
> Use RC everywhere, haven't had any issues


It is something that won't show up for years, and is less common on wire splices where there is alot of surface area, but much more common on small electronics like ECU's. and surface mount stuff.


----------



## redcorradog60 (Aug 17, 2002)

When u take the stock air box out of the g60 do u have to plug the hoses going to the carbon canister


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Well I was looking why my air/heat instrument panel wouldn't light up so I took off my cigarette configuration and I found out the little lightbulb was bad( I took it off not sure if I broke it since I saw two little wires still attached) and I proceeded to take the panel off, as I took it off it did light up along with the stereo( yes!) So I turned on the car and everything seems in order except now the warning light module (abs, engine, and hand brake) won't light up anymore....everything else works. What the fudge?:screwy: I took off the speedometer bezel/ cover to get to the module and i took it apart.....it looks good with no burnt parts. 


The little lightbulbs inside look good.

Oh and what does this connect to?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> It is something that won't show up for years, and is less common on wire splices where there is alot of surface area, but much more common on small electronics like ECU's. and surface mount stuff.


I'm fukked then, as well as a few others I have built MS boxes for


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I'm fukked then, as well as a few others I have built MS boxes for


Ha, you'll be alright. 
The flux acts as an agent to clean oxidation from the surface of the metal so that the melted solder can flow. It leaves, depending on the temperature you're using, a small amount of residue. It's usually easy to clean off. 100% Isopropyl alcohol, and acetone work well. 
It's best to avoid it all together but, on old wires its difficult to get the solder to flow without it.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

mateok said:


> Ha, you'll be alright.
> The flux acts as an agent to clean oxidation from the surface of the metal so that the melted solder can flow. It leaves, depending on the temperature you're using, a small amount of residue. It's usually easy to clean off. 100% Isopropyl alcohol, and acetone work well.
> It's best to avoid it all together but, on old wires its difficult to get the solder to flow without it.


Didn't clean isht, good thing I read the manual 

https://www.google.com/search?q=meg...&sugexp=chrome,mod=4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> Oh and what does this connect to?


BK/Y, voltmeter, +engine oil pressure gauge, or glove box light. 
Where's your cubby gauge? Did the PO take that, as well?
I hope you got a reduced parts discount when you bought it. You seem to be missing a lot of stuff. :what:


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Its a 92. I think it's the light since I don't see anything that could light up the tray light.

My major concern is the abs, brake, check engine light module. Mfg Part#535919235M


----------



## William548 (Jan 4, 2013)

appreciate the help good sir, I'll be asking a lot of questions when it comes time for the motor swap I have planned haha.http://www.********.com/09ht.jpg


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> Its a 92. I think it's the light since I don't see anything that could light up the tray light.
> 
> My major concern is the abs, brake, check engine light module. Mfg Part#535919235M


Poor '92 corrado, it didn't know if it wanted to be a VR or G60. 

Have you checked the bulb for that, as well?:laugh:


----------



## Gettaguy1.8t (Dec 3, 2012)

What could be the reasoning behind a.98 jetta not starting after an aftermarkrt headunit was attempted to,be installed?

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Gettaguy1.8t said:


> What could be the reasoning behind a.98 jetta not starting after an aftermarkrt headunit was attempted to,be installed?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2


wrong forum


----------



## Gettaguy1.8t (Dec 3, 2012)

TheBurninator said:


> wrong forum


Isnt this thread where the noob can ask an expert a question? My apologies

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

mateok said:


> Poor '92 corrado, it didn't know if it wanted to be a VR or G60.
> 
> Have you checked the bulb for that, as well?:laugh:


I'm sorry, What do you mean?

Anyone know where I can get that abs/brake/check engine warning light? Thanks
I also can't find those wires to the parking/ city lights.:thumbup:


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Well thanks guys. I figured it out, I blew a 15amp fuse and that gave me no cel light.









DONE!:thumbup:


Now, about those headlight parking wires......


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> Well thanks guys. I figured it out, I blew a 15amp fuse and that gave me no cel light.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm proud of you, man. Nothing better than doing it yourself:thumbup:
You can't find any parking light wires?


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

mateok said:


> I'm proud of you, man. Nothing better than doing it yourself:thumbup:
> You can't find any parking light wires?


No

I did get my package from these guys


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Gettaguy1.8t said:


> Isnt this thread where the noob can ask an expert a question? My apologies
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2


Yeah... for Corrado's. Not mk3's


----------



## tod914 (Dec 6, 2011)

*Where is the Brake Pressure Regulator*

Hey gang, I have a 92 SLC with ABS. The Bentley is saying to depress the lever on the pressure regulator towards the rear calipers as part of their rear brake bleed proceedure. Where exactly is this thing? I can't figure out where from their picture. Is it in the engine bay or is it on the one of the rear axles? Made mention that it's spring loaded to the rear axle. If so which one and where! Thanks.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> No
> 
> I did get my package from these guys


Nice, shifter rebuild:thumbup:

Did you ask thetatau87?
He has several listed for $5...


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

tod914 said:


> Hey gang, I have a 92 SLC with ABS. The Bentley is saying to depress the lever on the pressure regulator towards the rear calipers as part of their rear brake bleed proceedure. Where exactly is this thing? I can't figure out where from their picture. Is it in the engine bay or is it on the one of the rear axles? Made mention that it's spring loaded to the rear axle. If so which one and where! Thanks.


Rear proportional valve, it's under the car. 
You'll find it next to the left rear wheel.


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

All of you guys that deleted your ABS can I please see your brake line setup at the master. Also I need to know which lines go where as far as front-rear left-right. I know it's frowned upon but I'm only gonna be running the three brake line setup till summer so that's what I'd like to see and get help with. I will be running the pro portioning valve from my ABS unit to help the rears from locking up. Any pics or info would really help. Need to get this wrapped up, thanks in advance all!!! :beer::beer::thumbup:

David


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Also would like to see that!


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Also in for this!


----------



## IMWALKIN (Mar 28, 2002)

hey will 14inch mk1 snowflakes fit on my 90 g60? both are 4x100 but was wondering about the brakes??


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

IMWALKIN said:


> hey will 14inch mk1 snowflakes fit on my 90 g60? both are 4x100 but was wondering about the brakes??


Haven't tried it personally, but I think NO
Probably they'd fit if you downgrade to 16V 256mm setup (brakes/calipers/carriers)


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

krazy4dubz said:


> All of you guys that deleted your ABS can I please see your brake line setup at the master. Also I need to know which lines go where as far as front-rear left-right. I know it's frowned upon but I'm only gonna be running the three brake line setup till summer so that's what I'd like to see and get help with. I will be running the pro portioning valve from my ABS unit to help the rears from locking up. Any pics or info would really help. Need to get this wrapped up, thanks in advance all!!! :beer::beer::thumbup:
> 
> David


http://www.oichan.org/mods/abs/abs2.htm


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

IMWALKIN said:


> hey will 14inch mk1 snowflakes fit on my 90 g60? both are 4x100 but was wondering about the brakes??


Noper ... but Fifteen52 yes, 15, 16, 18 (both 4 & 5x100) or go crazy w/ barrels and make your own 3 pc 15 to 20


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

mateok said:


> http://www.oichan.org/mods/abs/abs2.htm


Thanks bud but I've actually seen this one, very helpful. But I still need to know what lines go in what port.. And I'd like to see what others are doing. Thanks again for the link!!

Cheers. :beer::beer:


----------



## Rubberband (Sep 28, 2006)

*obd1 valve cover breather*

okay, so my obd1 vr corrado is taking in way too much oil from the valve cover to the air inlet/TB tube. Thought it was bad valve stem/seals, but when i took off the valve cover (alum) i see this open hole in the breather portion of the valvecover. one would figure there would be some sort of element in there to keep straight oil from going back into the intake. I searched for images and threads and did not see anything.
i have an obd2 plastic cover and that has a closed breather with 4 small holes in it. the gasket groove is different than the obd1 cover, so i cant use it.

anyone know whats supposed to be in the aluminum cover for an internal breather filter? or is it just a gaping hole?


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Getting my Bentley!


----------



## yip (Jul 14, 2003)

IMWALKIN said:


> hey will 14inch mk1 snowflakes fit on my 90 g60? both are 4x100 but was wondering about the brakes??


If you get some calipers/carriers from a Mk2 Gti they will fit 

Seriously though I've seen people do it.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

yip said:


> If you get some calipers/carriers from a Mk2 Gti they will fit
> 
> Seriously though I've seen people do it.


Yeah, that's what I already told him...



RedYellowWhite said:


> Haven't tried it personally, but I think NO
> Probably they'd fit if you downgrade to 16V 256mm setup (brakes/calipers/carriers)


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Is there anyway I can rebuilt the shifter without dropping the exhaust? Links? Thanks:thumbup:


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> Is there anyway I can rebuilt the shifter without dropping the exhaust? Links? Thanks:thumbup:


Not unless you can magically squeeze the box out around it. 
As I'm sure you're about to find out, it's a lot of work for a few plastic bushings


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

mateok said:


> Not unless you can magically squeeze the box out around it.
> As I'm sure you're about to find out, it's a lot of work for a few plastic bushings


Yeah:banghead:

But I do remember another person here inquired the same info and another gentleman posted a link to a way of getting it done without removing the exhaust. Thing is, that one link is there but it goes to nothing.:thumbdown:


----------



## yip (Jul 14, 2003)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Yeah, that's what I already told him...


Good for you.  Right back at you.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Everything works! Yaaay:thumbup:

Thanks man!


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> Everything works! Yaaay:thumbup:
> 
> Thanks man!


Progressing, your journey to Corrado Jedi is...


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

yip said:


> Good for you.  Right back at you.


Whatever dude...:facepalm:


----------



## yip (Jul 14, 2003)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Whatever dude...:facepalm:



Sometimes people miss or overlook previous statements/posts like I did but you obviously thought I was trying to 1 up you and had to point it out like a penile organ. 

I think it's pretty clear that I am not one of those guys around here.


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Rubberband said:


> okay, so my obd1 vr corrado is taking in way too much oil from the valve cover to the air inlet/TB tube. Thought it was bad valve stem/seals, but when i took off the valve cover (alum) i see this open hole in the breather portion of the valvecover. one would figure there would be some sort of element in there to keep straight oil from going back into the intake. I searched for images and threads and did not see anything.
> i have an obd2 plastic cover and that has a closed breather with 4 small holes in it. the gasket groove is different than the obd1 cover, so i cant use it.
> 
> anyone know whats supposed to be in the aluminum cover for an internal breather filter? or is it just a gaping hole?


My obd1 cover had a metal mesh coil looking thing inside of it. I took mine out cause I'm using a catch can, but basically it looked like a steel wool pad.


----------



## Rubberband (Sep 28, 2006)

Thanks bro, it looks like I gotta rebuild the head. 
Either shot valve guides or valve guide seals. Way too much oil going into the intake.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Rubberband said:


> Thanks bro, it looks like I gotta rebuild the head.
> Either shot valve guides or valve guide seals. Way too much oil going into the intake.


Did you look inside your TB to see if it was oil soaked? If not, it's not coming in from the breather, and if your guides or seals are leaking, there should be blue smoke exiting the exhaust.


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## redcorradog60 (Aug 17, 2002)

My g60 is getting less than 7 miles per gallon ! I bypassed the charger but it still should be better than this


----------



## JDub89 (May 22, 2008)

*Corrado Low Oil Pressure Probs*

Hey guys i need some help, 

My vr6 corrado with 60k miles is sputtering at idle. It runs fine while driving, oil pressure gauge at 4, but when I come to a stop the oil pressure gauge drops down to 0 (zero) and the car sputters and some times will stall out if I dont flutter the gas. 

I just replaced the oil pan and oil pump, im running 5w30 with lucas oil mixed

any ideas on whats going on or how to fix it?

Thanks in advance


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

redcorradog60 said:


> My g60 is getting less than 7 miles per gallon ! I bypassed the charger but it still should be better than this


How did you calculate this? Just don't trust the MFA


----------



## redcorradog60 (Aug 17, 2002)

I was going off the mfa I assumed that was close anyway


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

redcorradog60 said:


> I was going off the mfa I assumed that was close anyway


Mine reads 99.9 MPG. That's not close any way you cut it. 

It sounds like you're running Richie Rich. Lots of threads out there covering that problem


----------



## redcorradog60 (Aug 17, 2002)

I assume it has a vacuum leak somewhere


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

redcorradog60 said:


> My g60 is getting less than 7 miles per gallon ! I bypassed the charger but it still should be better than this


The telltale sooty exhaust. Most common causes are the vacuum lines corroding under the protective sleeves by the valve cover and rubbing on other engine components. 

The blue sensor (CTS) on the plastic flange can crap out too. More than likely the cooked/brittle wires going to it are broken or compromised.



petethepug said:


> A quick heads up on the blue temp sender. VW no longer uses VDO to manufacture their sensors (brass base). 025906041A is the correct part number. The new ones are a brighter blue color and look like this (Alum base):
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

Can someone please at least tell what lines go where on the brake master in a 91 g60. Thanks in advance. 

David


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

krazy4dubz said:


> Can someone please at least tell what lines go where on the brake master in a 91 g60. Thanks in advance.
> 
> David


Do you mean where the hard lines go in relation to the wheels?
ABS or not?


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

krazy4dubz said:


> Can someone please at least tell what lines go where on the brake master in a 91 g60. Thanks in advance.
> 
> David


Non-abs? 


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

mateok said:


> Do you mean where the hard lines go in relation to the wheels?
> ABS or not?


Where the hard lines go into the master cylinder. Non-ABS. Thank you!!


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

krazy4dubz said:


> Where the hard lines go into the master cylinder. Non-ABS. Thank you!!


 Follow the wheel pattern.

Front right, rear right, front left rear left. Visualize your MC as your wheels lol


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## redcorradog60 (Aug 17, 2002)

My temp gauge is showing 190 degress


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

HavokRuels said:


> Follow the wheel pattern.
> 
> Front right, rear right, front left rear left. Visualize your MC as your wheels lol
> 
> ...


Haha perfect!! That's what I thought but wanted to confirm. Couldn't find info anywhere in the Bentley... Thanks bud!! :beer::beer:


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

krazy4dubz said:


> Haha perfect!! That's what I thought but wanted to confirm. Couldn't find info anywhere in the Bentley... Thanks bud!! :beer::beer:


Any time Mr. diamond life lol :beer:


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

HavokRuels said:


> Any time Mr. diamond life lol :beer:
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


Haha you know it!! Diamond Life til the Next Life!! :beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

redcorradog60 said:


> I was going off the mfa I assumed that was close anyway


recalculate


----------



## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

Experts:

What's the consensus on use of the inline coolant pressure reducer for the G60 to prolong heater core life? I just replaced my entire coolant system on this rebuild and I was wondering if this $6 part is good insurance. On the flip side, is there any concern of impacting the performance of the cooling system by adding an additional restriction?

Pressure Reducer:









From: http://www.tdnparts.com/products/Pressure-Reducer,-Inline-for-Heater-Core.-.html

-e


----------



## d-bot (Sep 6, 2004)

It's to restrict flow & heat from the heater core, so yes it's good to use.


----------



## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

d-bot said:


> It's to restrict flow & heat from the heater core, so yes it's good to use.


cool. thanks.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Pretty weird but, when Im driving below 40mph the car sounds good but when I hit 40 and above its like I have a freaking fart cannon. Like it just totally changes:screwy:

Its weird because when I just hit the gas in neutral( parked) and bring up the Rpm's it sounds normal( quiet, stock, vr6 sound)

Its like it activates at 40mph.....no matter the revolutions, gas given, or gear.


----------



## d-bot (Sep 6, 2004)

What exhaust and intake do you have?


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

The exhaust looks stock( I'll verify it asap) but the intake is the stock box with a k&n filter.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Aaaaawww shucks

That's such a bummer.
So you think its dirty and junk?

Thing is super annoying.

Is there a setup I could get that is emission friendly and sounds great( low, sporty, deep sound)? Or what should I check for?


----------



## Rubberband (Sep 28, 2006)

HavokRuels said:


> Did you look inside your TB to see if it was oil soaked? If not, it's not coming in from the breather, and if your guides or seals are leaking, there should be blue smoke exiting the exhaust.
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


Yep , tb and intake mani is oil soaked I'm afraid. 
Yep, smoke too. Too much oil coming up through the guides.


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

i got one for you.

after hard braking. (not locking up) but hard enough to stop fairly quickly..
periodically i get an "electricity" smell coming through the vents obviously...

any idea what this is?


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

Hey All, So I really need the experts help!! I just got done doing the manual swap in my 91 G60 and now the only thing I have left to do is the most difficult for me but hopefully easy for others. I need help/info on what wiring modifications I need to do for the starter bypass. I found a really good write up on the corrado club on canada page but I'm having a hard time understanding it. So if anybody has any pointers, shortcuts, info, or pictures I would really REALLY appreciate it. This is literally the last thing I need to do so if you can help in any way please do. Thanks for reading and thanks in advance to anyone that helps. I wanna drive my car!!  :thumbup: :beer:

David


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

krazy4dubz said:


> Hey All, So I really need the experts help!! I just got done doing the manual swap in my 91 G60 and now the only thing I have left to do is the most difficult for me but hopefully easy for others. I need help/info on what wiring modifications I need to do for the starter bypass. I found a really good write up on the corrado club on canada page but I'm having a hard time understanding it. So if anybody has any pointers, shortcuts, info, or pictures I would really REALLY appreciate it. This is literally the last thing I need to do so if you can help in any way please do. Thanks for reading and thanks in advance to anyone that helps. I wanna drive my car!!  :thumbup: :beer:
> 
> David


What part don't you understand?
I've never done it but, it looks pretty simple. Remove the starter wire from pin 8 on the automatic relay plate. Install it into slot 1 of the F connector. The modification to the wire looks like its because the automatic starter wire is a smaller gauge. A smaller gauge means a smaller terminal on the end. Basically, it's too small to lock into the connector. 
You have to source a 4.0 R/BK (or any color) wire with the appropriate sized terminal end and solder it on.


----------



## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

mateok said:


> What part don't you understand?
> I've never done it but, it looks pretty simple. Remove the starter wire from pin 8 on the automatic relay plate. Install it into slot 1 of the F connector. The modification to the wire looks like its because the automatic starter wire is a smaller gauge. A smaller gauge means a smaller terminal on the end. Basically, it's too small to lock into the connector.
> You have to source a 4.0 R/BK (or any color) wire with the appropriate sized terminal end and solder it on.


Sweet thanks for the info!! So basically your switching the wire but since its to small you need to solder a bigger gauge wire on..

And if anybody that has done it has anymore pointers I'd appreciate it. This is very helpful though, thank you!!

David


----------



## CGabler (Jul 24, 2011)

I'm looking for a 90 corrado ecu anyone selling one


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

CGabler said:


> I'm looking for a 90 corrado ecu anyone selling one


There might be a couple for sale in the classifieds. Oh wait, there is...
QUOTE=Dkordinate;78399703]For sale is a g60 ecu
It works great. Also has the mount. Its got awite label 
I can send pics to your email 100 shipped in 48 obo.
Text anytime 724 562 6107 
Also have other g60 parts for sale.[/QUOTE]

QUOTE=the_mad_rabbit;79170607]G60 free so these are the last 3 bits that are collecting dust on a build that I left behind.

ECU p/n : 037 906 022CQ / BOSH 0261200344 (From my 1990 Corrado)
$150 Shipped








-AJ[/QUOTE]


----------



## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

So, I started and drove my 93 for the first time in a few weeks and everything went fine until I shut the car down and took the key out. After about 1-2 minutes all of my key switched components (gauges, wideband, ecu, gauge cluster) came back to life as if the key were in the "on" position. To me, the obvious culprit is the ignition switch. 

Can anyone confirm that they have seen similar symptoms when a switch went bad? Usually when I read about ignition switch issues people have problems starting the car, but that hasn't been an issue in my case...


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

leebro61 said:


> So, I started and drove my 93 for the first time in a few weeks and everything went fine until I shut the car down and took the key out. After about 1-2 minutes all of my key switched components (gauges, wideband, ecu, gauge cluster) came back to life as if the key were in the "on" position. To me, the obvious culprit is the ignition switch.
> 
> Can anyone confirm that they have seen similar symptoms when a switch went bad? Usually when I read about ignition switch issues people have problems starting the car, but that hasn't been an issue in my case...


That would be my first guess. It has to be something on circuit number 15. There aren't too many components that use it. 
Check the condition of the black wire going to the ignition switch. 
Everything else that uses circuit 15 is fused so, a short is unlikely.


----------



## redcorradog60 (Aug 17, 2002)

If I decide on a twin screw charger for the corrado can I leave the 8v stock or do I have to do engine mods to


----------



## i am the volkswagoneer (Sep 27, 2009)

*mk1*

How hard is it to fit a mark 2 dash into a mark 1 caddy?


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Got it.









I still need to figure out why the heck it sounds so horribly loud at 40mph:screwy::what:


----------



## Richard5555 (Jan 14, 2013)

well, my first one is about corrado stance............http://www.*******.info/20.jpg


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

redcorradog60 said:


> If I decide on a twin screw charger for the corrado can I leave the 8v stock or do I have to do engine mods to


It ships with a stock pulley making 12+psi so, no engine upgrades are necessary.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

redcorradog60 said:


> If I decide on a twin screw charger for the corrado can I leave the 8v stock or do I have to do engine mods to


Lysholmn? It's gonna sound like a fire truck siren 24/7. It's most annoying.

Sent from my cellular

Follow me on Instagram: europeein


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I'm having the car painted and I was wondering how can I get the actually color? Vin number?


----------



## SLC4EVER (Oct 7, 1999)

Check the trunk under the carpet...should be a label with the color code.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Yes. Found it. L041


----------



## G2Performance (Jun 4, 2007)

That's sure is black! Stock pak nice to shoot if you like painting!


----------



## redcorradog60 (Aug 17, 2002)

I kind of like the sound they make


----------



## CGabler (Jul 24, 2011)

Anyone have a link how to do a digi 1 setup on a Vw jetta 16v pics and diagram anything


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

CGabler said:


> Anyone have a link how to do a digi 1 setup on a Vw jetta 16v pics and diagram anything


try mkii or hybrid threads


----------



## dannyace (Nov 9, 2000)

*Ecodes and City Lights*

Dumb question:


I have the vr ecodes with the eurowires harness. Do the city lights always stay on? Even while the headlights are on? I thought the city lights should turn off once the headlights are on, but after reading a few threads I think I'm wrong. 

That said, looking at only the headlights. Headlight switch in first position, it should be just the city lights, then the second position should be city lights and headlights. If the headlights come on at the first position, then I need to do the wire move trick in the switch. Correct?


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

I have mine wired up with eurowire harness, as well. 
The city light should be wired to the parking lights. The first stop on the headlight switch should activate them. I didn't have to monkey with the headlight switch?


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

So I really haven't checked and am just curious what you guys think about this. My dome light quit working when the doors are opened (both sides do not operate the dome light). If I use the switch on the dome light/sunroof switch it works fine. Both lights work fine, the passenger map light and the actual dome light (of course, only when switched on at the dome itself). So the bulb is good, and I'm assuming the door switches are good since they both stopped working at the same time. Dome light switch is toast?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

1956dub said:


> So I really haven't checked and am just curious what you guys think about this. My dome light quit working when the doors are opened (both sides do not operate the dome light). If I use the switch on the dome light/sunroof switch it works fine. Both lights work fine, the passenger map light and the actual dome light (of course, only when switched on at the dome itself). So the bulb is good, and I'm assuming the door switches are good since they both stopped working at the same time. Dome light switch is toast?


 Replace the 2 contact switches in the front of the door jamb on both sides.


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

*1) * 
anyone have any idea what thread bolt size the studs are under the car that hangers which hold the exhaust up right behind the in the rear seat well are? 

Both of my brackets are gone somehow, so I need to bolt up new hangers and I have no clue what thread is under there. I called the Dealership, apparently 'unspecificed nut' is the size I need. lol. 

And is it safe to assume this is the same size nut that every exhaust hanger bracket on the undercarriage uses? Or would that just make too much sense for a Rado? 

*2)* 


HavokRuels said:


> Lysholmn? It's gonna sound like a fire truck siren 24/7. It's most annoying.
> 
> Sent from my cellular
> 
> Follow me on Instagram: europeein


 I know BBM sold a 'silencer kit', but Ive heard it was prone to breakage. What modifications can be done to quiet that thing down? Something like moving your throttle body to the other side of the charger or something like that. I looked into a lysholm a long time ago I thought I remember reading something like that.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

cyberstasi said:


> *1) *
> anyone have any idea what thread bolt size the studs are under the car that hangers which hold the exhaust up right behind the in the rear seat well are?
> 
> Both of my brackets are gone somehow, so I need to bolt up new hangers and I have no clue what thread is under there. I called the Dealership, apparently 'unspecificed nut' is the size I need. lol.
> ...


 "Unspecified nut", funny. 
That's parts dude never even looked
I know it's a 17mm. Not sure what pitch. I would assume any M8 in the nuts and bolts drawer will work.


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

cyberstasi said:


> *1) *
> anyone have any idea what thread bolt size the studs are under the car that hangers which hold the exhaust up right behind the in the rear seat well are?
> 
> Both of my brackets are gone somehow, so I need to bolt up new hangers and I have no clue what thread is under there. I called the Dealership, apparently 'unspecificed nut' is the size I need. lol.
> ...


 Not much you can do and the silencer is NLA. Most people who buy this charger end up selling the car or swapping to a different platform. I know INA is messing with a rotex charger and engineered a bracket to mount it. I've seen the pic and it looks good. Not sure if its ever one as far as that though.

M60 charger is another option too. Think that's off of a Jaguar


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

This should get you started:



redcorradog60 said:


> If I decide on a twin screw charger for the corrado can I leave the 8v stock or do I have to do engine mods to
> 
> 
> mateok said:
> ...


 BBM screw compressor silencer kit questions..

Pic request.. lysholm silencer kit installed..

Lysholm Good or Bad?

G60 Lysholm, need some advice/help

Lysholm 'homemade' silencer problems..:thumbdown: and the missing pic from the thread 









16V G60 - How to



corocco said:


> Whatever happened to the ("NEW") silencer kit that was supposed to be finished in late summer?
> 
> 
> JBETZ said:
> ...


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

HKS Rotex **this is not mine** it's Issam's at INA engineering 

Specs are in the g60 engine pics for kicks thread


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I have an issue with the corrado, the temperature as depicted in the dash has gone up to 220 max and then it goes to 210 until I turn off the car. Is that normal?

I also noticed that whenever I floor the gas pedal and shift, the little check engine light flickers rapidly a couple times( not like a blink) sometimes it stays on until I let go of the gas pedal.... I don't abuse it by the way. Just checking everything is in order
What the fudge?

Car runs great with the exception of the exhaust, which I'm going to replace with a TT complete system with a borla exhaust ( two resonators).
Thanks guys.


----------



## redcorradog60 (Aug 17, 2002)

I know this is probably a stupid question but if I remove stock air box do I have to cap the vacuum lines going to it? Will that cause a vacuum leak and my g60 to run like crap


----------



## elgatov16 (Jan 13, 2007)

*possible clutch issue??*

Hey guys I recently bought a 93 C two weeks ago. Today I was driving from work when I was coating at 55 mph when I started hearing a clicking like a bad cv axle. I press the clutch pedal and the noise went away. Now every time I'm coasting in any gear I hear the noise when I'm at low rpm's. The higher the speed that I coast at the louder the noise is. Any ideas what it could be? The previous owner replaced the clutch 3 years ago and also installed a lighter flywheel.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

redcorradog60 said:


> I know this is probably a stupid question but if I remove stock air box do I have to cap the vacuum lines going to it? Will that cause a vacuum leak and my g60 to run like crap


 One opens up the hot air tube to warm the engine faster when it's cold (supposedly). The other goes into the airbox...to nothing. I would either plug the lines or remove the lines and plug their ports.


----------



## redcorradog60 (Aug 17, 2002)

What vacuum lines are actually needed


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

redcorradog60 said:


> What vacuum lines are actually needed


 Neither is "needed". When vacuum is applied, the flap opens and sucks in air from the back. No vacuum, it closes and air is sucked in from the front of the airbox. The other is emission related. Look inside the box at where the line goes. You'll see it does nothing. You can delete all that stuff.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

elgatov16 said:


> Hey guys I recently bought a 93 C two weeks ago. Today I was driving from work when I was coating at 55 mph when I started hearing a clicking like a bad cv axle. I press the clutch pedal and the noise went away. Now every time I'm coasting in any gear I hear the noise when I'm at low rpm's. The higher the speed that I coast at the louder the noise is. Any ideas what it could be? The previous owner replaced the clutch 3 years ago and also installed a lighter flywheel.


 That sounds like the release bearing. It normally makes a high pitched whistling noise when it's dying, though. 
Your CV joints would be popping like crazy when you turn before doing it going straight. It only does it with the clutch disengaged?


----------



## redcorradog60 (Aug 17, 2002)

mateok said:


> Neither is "needed". When vacuum is applied, the flap opens and sucks in air from the back. No vacuum, it closes and air is sucked in from the front of the airbox. The other is emission related. Look inside the box at where the line goes. You'll see it does nothing. You can delete all that stuff.


 I was talking as far as all the vacuum lines on the engine


----------



## elgatov16 (Jan 13, 2007)

mateok said:


> That sounds like the release bearing. It normally makes a high pitched whistling noise when it's dying, though.
> Your CV joints would be popping like crazy when you turn before doing it going straight. It only does it with the clutch disengaged?


 It only does it when the car is in motion and in any gear. I'm not too familiar with the internal workings of a tranny, what can happen if the bearing goes out? Should I park the car till I fix it?


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

redcorradog60 said:


> I was talking as far as all the vacuum lines on the engine


 http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4141077-G60-Carbon-canister-delete


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

elgatov16 said:


> It only does it when the car is in motion and in any gear. I'm not too familiar with the internal workings of a tranny, what can happen if the bearing goes out? Should I park the car till I fix it?


 A bad release bearing will cry in neutral, as well. I'm not convinced that's the culprit. 
It's most likely going to become worse until whatever it is fails and leaves you stranded. Get the front tires off the ground and try to duplicate the symptoms under a controlled setting. Have someone work the throttle and clutch while you poke around the area. An automotive stethoscope is great for isolating noises when everything is running.


----------



## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

Has anyone noticed elevated temperatures after installing the coolant pressure reducer in a G60? Seems to me that it would effectively reduce flow through the system. I'm wondering if that would result in higher temps. Probably not but I'd thought I'd ask. I'm a couple days away in my rebuild to putting the coolant hose back. 

-e


----------



## redcorradog60 (Aug 17, 2002)

mateok said:


> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4141077-G60-Carbon-canister-delete


 So I can pretty much delete all of them but my brake booster line


----------



## elgatov16 (Jan 13, 2007)

mateok said:


> A bad release bearing will cry in neutral, as well. I'm not convinced that's the culprit.
> It's most likely going to become worse until whatever it is fails and leaves you stranded. Get the front tires off the ground and try to duplicate the symptoms under a controlled setting. Have someone work the throttle and clutch while you poke around the area. An automotive stethoscope is great for isolating noises when everything is running.


 Hmm.. Ok I'll see about trying this 

Thanks guys


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

mateok said:


> "Unspecified nut", funny.
> That's parts dude never even looked
> I know it's a 17mm. Not sure what pitch. I would assume any M8 in the nuts and bolts drawer will work.



Thanks man!
Actually the part about 'unspecificed nut' I believe. I went into the dealership a few years back to order a bunch of interior screws, like the ones that hold the cluster surround in place. ETKA actually had 'unspecified screw' listed. The parts person just ordered one of every screw she could find for a corrado, and then we went through to find what one matched. Sadly none did. I ended up buying a bag of random screws off here a few months after.


----------



## ein (Feb 3, 2007)

TheRealEddie said:


> Has anyone noticed elevated temperatures after installing the coolant pressure reducer in a G60? Seems to me that it would effectively reduce flow through the system. I'm wondering if that would result in higher temps. Probably not but I'd thought I'd ask. I'm a couple days away in my rebuild to putting the coolant hose back.
> 
> -e


Are you talking about the one that goes in the line for the heater core?


----------



## denzil_wasson (Jun 3, 2009)

*Anal swap to G12*

Did search.

93 SLC, owned for about 4 years now - swapped to g12++ along with a few other cooling system bits. 

Now I want the coolant overflow bottle trim piece to say G12 only (I know anal ):facepalm:. My question is what cars (years/models) or part number says G12 only on it on that black trim piece? 


(would be good if someone knew of a G12++ but that is probably a long shot).

Cheers


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

denzil_wasson said:


> Did search.
> 
> 93 SLC, owned for about 4 years now - swapped to g12++ along with a few other cooling system bits.
> 
> ...


 late mk3 vr6. None with +.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

denzil_wasson said:


> Did search.
> 
> 93 SLC, owned for about 4 years now - swapped to g12++ along with a few other cooling system bits.
> 
> ...


That's a tough one. VW did away with plastic trim and started stamping G12 on the bottle itself. The only one I know of that had G12 on the trim was a 96 Passat VR6. Later examples had a funky shaped trim piece that won't fit a round reservoir.


----------



## denzil_wasson (Jun 3, 2009)

*G12 coolant trim piece follow up*



mateok said:


> That's a tough one. VW did away with plastic trim and started stamping G12 on the bottle itself. The only one I know of that had G12 on the trim was a 96 Passat VR6. Later examples had a funky shaped trim piece that won't fit a round reservoir.


G12 coolant trim follow up. 

Awesome info as always.

So I looked up the etka part number for the 1996 Passat with vr6 (G12) trim piece and I get a number of 1H0121422E - Can anyone confirm that ?

Cheers


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

denzil_wasson said:


> So I looked up the etka part number for the 1996 Passat with vr6 (G12) trim piece and I get a number of 1H0121422E - Can anyone confirm that ?
> 
> Cheers


I can't confirm that. This is saying its the long one. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3044001


----------



## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

I've heard the blower fan/motor can be replaced without dash removal, simply by removing the panel on top of the passenger side footwell. Any details on this? I haven't been able to find anything. My heater core seems to be working alright, I can get a bit of warm air on the highway and its definitely not leaking, I just have no air coming out on any of the 4 settings.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Slider388 said:


> I've heard the blower fan/motor can be replaced without dash removal, simply by removing the panel on top of the passenger side footwell. Any details on this? I haven't been able to find anything. My heater core seems to be working alright, I can get a bit of warm air on the highway and its definitely not leaking, I just have no air coming out on any of the 4 settings.


I would try a new blower resistor before changing the actual motor.


----------



## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

ein said:


> Are you talking about the one that goes in the line for the heater core?


Yup.

-e


----------



## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

i am rebuilding my g60 engine and i dont know where the po pu the nuts for the valve cover 
can i use any nuts as long as the thread is the same or do they have to be something specific?


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

VWcorrado1994 said:


> i am rebuilding my g60 engine and i dont know where the po pu the nuts for the valve cover
> can i use any nuts as long as the thread is the same or do they have to be something specific?


Any M6 will do. I hate rust so, SS on mine.


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

denzil_wasson said:


> G12 coolant trim follow up.
> 
> Awesome info as always.
> 
> ...


http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/products/Cap--COVER/5137454/1H0121422D.html

Here ya go Matey! Had this on the shopping list for the G60 since it's running G12. Ran into some part #'s but never called to see the results. Just ordered one, 1H0121422D. eBay.de verified what it looks like and they're about $8. About 40 of them left all on the east coast. I'll verify fitiment when it arrives.


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

elgatov16 said:


> Hey guys I recently bought a 93 C two weeks ago. Today I was driving from work when I was coating at 55 mph when I started hearing a clicking like a bad cv axle. I press the clutch pedal and the noise went away. Now every time I'm coasting in any gear I hear the noise when I'm at low rpm's. The higher the speed that I coast at the louder the noise is. Any ideas what it could be? The previous owner replaced the clutch 3 years ago and also installed a lighter flywheel.


I'm sure no one is evil enough to do this to you but we used to tie ultra size zip ties on our instructors drive alxes during my apprenticeship. We finally cut them off when we saw him driving down the street, door open, looking under his F250 for the issue.


----------



## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

mateok said:


> Any M6 will do. I hate rust so, SS on mine.


thanks


----------



## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

Was pulling control arms, the front bolt just snapped. Half of it is still in there holding the control arm in.









What do I do now?
All I can think is drop the whole subframe, try to drill it out and then get a tap that size to clear the threads out. Anyone have any other ideas or recommendations?
Otherwise I guess I might be able to get it without removing the k frame if I cut up the control arm.
Anyone know the size and thread pitch of the front control arm bolt?
Thanks guys.


----------



## :skribble: (Jun 28, 2007)

Drill that sucker out, don't cut up the arm
I wish I could say on the thread pitch and bolt size, sorry :beer:


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Slider388 said:


> Was pulling control arms, the front bolt just snapped. Half of it is still in there holding the control arm in.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's fairly common in the northern parts of the country. I'm glad I work down in the "salt free" south. 
If it's seized enough to sheer the bolt, a broken bolt extractor probably won't work. Drilling is indeed an option. It looks like there's only a couple threads holding the arm on. have you tried smacking it with a hammer? Luckily, an M12x1.5 tap is included in most sets. 
I would hit it with penetrating oil, try to break the rust bond (provided its not cross threaded). Heat cycling with a torch is also effective. A bolt extractor might work after that. 
I would completely destroy that control arm and its bushing before I dropped the subframe. 
When you finally succeed, you'll need:
N 904 840 03
M12x1.5x82


----------



## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

Thanks a ton for the info and comments! Just out of curiosity, why would you cut up the arm rather than drop the subframe? I haven't dropped it before but it doesn't look too difficult. 
I feel it would be way easier to drill out the bolt and use any extractors with the subframe out of the car.


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

Slider388 said:


> Thanks a ton for the info and comments! Just out of curiosity, why would you cut up the arm rather than drop the subframe? I haven't dropped it before but it doesn't look too difficult.
> I feel it would be way easier to drill out the bolt and use any extractors with the subframe out of the car.


I would drop it all... those bolts are a massive pain in the ass when they break. Took me a couple hrs of cutting.


----------



## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

I decided to just drop it. First time I've done it but it was pretty easy.








And no, that's not rust, just some old coolant.

Started drilling that bolt out and I got nowhere, it is no fun. I wasn't able to start drilling out the right in the center either. Luckily I found a guy pretty close to me who I can probably get a subframe from, so I'm just gonna cut the front of the control arm housing off so I can get the control arm out. Then I'll swap the control arms and the motor mounts to the new subframe and I'll be able to bolt the whole subframe back up with all the new bushings in.


----------



## wolfens_golf (Dec 30, 2009)

Does anyone know the differnce between a corrado vr6 & a 95 gti vr6(obd1) engine

i know the obvious, the gti has a coil pack and that raddo came with a dizzy in the earlier years.

BUT does the raddo have different cams or something mechanicly different about it?


My plans are to *rebuild* one of them, but which to use? it will be obd2 converted regardless. :beer:


----------



## Nebby (Jun 2, 2003)

*QUESTION... and thank you in advance.*

I have my wheels for sale mainly because I want the rears to have about 10mm less poke... and I want to run less stretched tires. They are two piece but I don't think getting a new barrel is an option (centers + complete barrel). 

The wheels are 5x114.3 and so it runs on 15mm adapters from the 5x100, which is the thinnest i can go. The question is... is there any way to get my rears to run 114.3 natively so I can eliminate 15mm of offset from the adapters? I'm guessing to but I had to ask.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Nebby said:


> *QUESTION... and thank you in advance.*
> 
> I have my wheels for sale mainly because I want the rears to have about 10mm less poke... and I want to run less stretched tires. They are two piece but I don't think getting a new barrel is an option (centers + complete barrel).
> 
> The wheels are 5x114.3 and so it runs on 15mm adapters from the 5x100, which is the thinnest i can go. The question is... is there any way to get my rears to run 114.3 natively so I can eliminate 15mm of offset from the adapters? I'm guessing to but I had to ask.


nope. Although you could machine down the rear rotor 5mm, or see if the wheel itself can be machined or redrilled.



wolfens_golf said:


> Does anyone know the differnce between a corrado vr6 & a 95 gti vr6(obd1) engine
> 
> i know the obvious, the gti has a coil pack and that raddo came with a dizzy in the earlier years.
> 
> ...


Mechanically, just a bigger oil passage on the head by the timing chains. As far as everything else, a 95 is closer to obd2 with some sensors like the maf, and some 95S have 2 o2 sensors like obd2. If the Corrado is Coilpack, the SAI will be the similar except for egr/kombi valve.


----------



## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

Another question... will a passat vr6 K frame fit in an SLC?


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

super weird one i've mentioned in a previous page.
after hard braking, i smell an "electronic" smell.

and, on hard right turns, my e-brake light comes on sometimes.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

eurobred said:


> super weird one i've mentioned in a previous page.
> after hard braking, i smell an "electronic" smell.
> 
> and, on hard right turns, my e-brake light comes on sometimes.


Do you have ABS?
There's a couple switches on the brake pedal, a few relays (if you have ABS). Although, with enough resistance to cause a smell; it would surly pop a fuse. Can you duplicate the smell by just stomping on the pedal at rest? 
The e-brake light also serves as a fluid level indicator. Maybe you're down a little on fluid. I've seen those caps get nasty enough that the contact becomes flaky.


----------



## denzil_wasson (Jun 3, 2009)

*G12 - Coolant bottle trim part #*



petethepug said:


> http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/products/Cap--COVER/5137454/1H0121422D.html
> 
> Here ya go Matey! Had this on the shopping list for the G60 since it's running G12. Ran into some part #'s but never called to see the results. Just ordered one, 1H0121422D. eBay.de verified what it looks like and they're about $8. About 40 of them left all on the east coast. I'll verify fitiment when it arrives.



Awesome- thanks please do confirm fitment 
:beer::thumbup:


----------



## wolfens_golf (Dec 30, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> nope. Although you could machine down the rear rotor 5mm, or see if the wheel itself can be machined or redrilled.
> 
> 
> 
> Mechanically, just a bigger oil passage on the head by the timing chains. As far as everything else, a 95 is closer to obd2 with some sensors like the maf, and some 95S have 2 o2 sensors like obd2. If the Corrado is Coilpack, the SAI will be the similar except for egr/kombi valve.


thanks dubzak, nice rado btw:beer:


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

Slider388 said:


> Another question... will a passat vr6 K frame fit in an SLC?



Lat time I remember, yes, we put vr6 subframe and crossmember in vr6 swaps in mk2 chassis. As long you have the subframe out, upgrade your mounts and control arms bushings too, if you haven't yet. Oem engine mounts or BFI mounts, and then R32-TT control arms mounts.


----------



## mk3vrtspeed (Dec 5, 2011)

Those four bushings, are there poly upgrades? If so can you point me in the right direction...? That crossmember is the radiator support/front engine mount crossmember.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Powerflex.

And wtf is a mk3 front subframe question being asked in the Corrado forum for anyway?


----------



## I Use Enzyte (Nov 13, 2012)

WTF is rightious! My 9th or 10th post and ALL in the C forum. Spoilers Up to keeping it real in the hood! Semer Fi!


DUBZAK said:


> Holy ****, 40 characters, each with uniqe authentic martial art fighting styles.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## actiontoyz (Feb 3, 2013)

*R32 Corrado: how much will it cost*

OK...I have a special Corrado I want to make awesome. Assuming I have an R32 donor car. 
How much will it cost in labor and misc parts to swap engines and drive train? How has done this before?


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

actiontoyz said:


> OK...I have a special Corrado I want to make awesome. Assuming I have an R32 donor car.
> How much will it cost in labor and misc parts to swap engines and drive train? How has done this before?


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3187589-Corrado-newbie-and-another-AWD-corrado-build-

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...x-into-Corrado.-(02m-Syncro)&highlight=haldex

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4829864-R32-Corrado-Swap-Build-Thread

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2160306

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5779665-R32-swap-in-corrado-g60

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?50720-R32-3-2-24v-Audi-conversion-guide

http://forums.kilometermagazine.com/showthread.php?4829864-R32-Corrado-Swap-Build-Thread/page4
Welcome aboard. If you're going to do this, a little reading would be advisable. Less you end up in the classifieds. Good luck:thumbup:


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

He'll be in the classifieds


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## Nebby (Jun 2, 2003)

*Canadian Recaro + Heated Seats*

*Question regarding heated seats and the Canadian Recaros*

Hello...

OK, so I have this:










And my driver-side Recaro has this:










The passenger side seat has one wire bundle (shrink wrapped) which may contain the same wires as above, but otherwise, no exposed brown wires on passenger seat.

How do I get the heated seats to work? The switch in the dash has a MOLEX plug with some wires that run somewhere... no idea where.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Nebby said:


> *Question regarding heated seats and the Canadian Recaros*
> 
> Hello...
> 
> ...


You're going to need more than two ground wires to warm your bum. 
Each seat should have a six wire connector for the heating elements. 
The BR/BK wire is used as a daisy chain ground for the temperature sensor and heat regulating switch. 

The dash switch connector should have seven wires. 
1. GY/BL
2. BR
3. BK
4. BL/R
5. R/W
6. Y
7. Y/R

Does your car already have heated seats or are you trying to install them?


----------



## Nebby (Jun 2, 2003)

mateok said:


> You're going to need more than two ground wires to warm your bum.
> Each seat should have a six wire connector for the heating elements.
> The BR/BK wire is used as a daisy chain ground for the temperature sensor and heat regulating switch.
> 
> ...


I guess i "assumed" the Canadian Recaro seats had the heater elements. I guess i will need to remove the seats to see what all is under them in terms of electronics.


----------



## Nebby (Jun 2, 2003)

*Wheel fitment over 12.3" Audi TT brakes and Porsche Boxster calipers*

Not sure if this is a "common" Corrado mod, so maybe the data doesn't exist... but do you think the average (or some) 16" wheels will fit over this braking setup?


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Nebby said:


> *Wheel fitment over 12.3" Audi TT brakes and Porsche Boxster calipers*
> 
> Not sure if this is a "common" Corrado mod, so maybe the data doesn't exist... but do you think the average (or some) 16" wheels will fit over this braking setup?


I have this conversion, minimum wheel size is 17" 


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


----------



## Nebby (Jun 2, 2003)

*New Windshield*

*New Windshield*

I want to get a new windshield for the Corrado. What parts do I need to make sure I have before I do this? Wondering if there are any hard to find parts I should source first before I begin.


----------



## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

Nebby said:


> *New Windshield*
> 
> I want to get a new windshield for the Corrado. What parts do I need to make sure I have before I do this? Wondering if there are any hard to find parts I should source first before I begin.


I recommend safelite for a new windshield. I was really happy with my experience with them. They had the glass (not oem but high quality after market, I think they make it themselves), and both sets of side moldings. The first time I went there the tech told me he wanted to do it properly and since the po had glued and siliconed the top molding he wouldn't reuse it and I had to get a new one. Turns out the dealer even had them, 14 left in the us @ 25$. I returned the next week and the tech told me he would have to keep the car overnight. I let him, and returned to a beautiful windshield the next day. He scraped all the silicone, removed rust, repainted the surface, and did everything. Total was $312 after tax and old glass disposal. I got them to drop 20 or so since I paid for the top molding. 
It also reduced wind noise on the highway a ton! 









Either way, I believe there is a molding for each side, one upper molding, and then a seal that runs the whole length that you would need.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Nebby said:


> *New Windshield*
> 
> I want to get a new windshield for the Corrado. What parts do I need to make sure I have before I do this? Wondering if there are any hard to find parts I should source first before I begin.


Windshield - 535 845 011C - dropped 01/09/2012
Top moulding - 535 853 307 A 01 C
Left side - 535 853 305 01C
Right side - 535 853 306 01C

As mentioned, I've had Safelite do mine a few times. Excellent work.


----------



## VENEZOLANO (Jan 13, 2008)

*Corrado SLC 92 non ABS*

Hello everyone, I have done the non ABS almost as Mr. Oichan did. The difference is that I used a brand new Audi A3 Turbo servo (1998 model), 23.8 mm MC, 4 pistons Wilwood Dynapro Radial, 312 mm Audi TT rotors. Everything is new except the old proportioning valve and the hard brake lines the car had. The brake pedal turns stiff at the second pump (it does not go to the floor) I thought was a vacuum problem and changed the hose to the servo from the original manifold place to where the EGR used to be. It did not work out. I do not know why but it seems there is no vacuum so returned to the original calipers but the situation remained the same. Yes,I searched, purged the system with the rear axle pressed. Is the servo too big? Thanks in advance for your help.:screwy:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Late abs does not have prop valve on the rear beam, all controlled by the control unit/pump. Delete the valve, bleed the system.


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

I have someone willing to trade me girling 60's for my stock 54's. I know there heavier them the 54's, is the performance from the 60's noticeable as apposed to my stock calipers? Should I trade or no? I've done a little research on if they'd fit the 54 carriers, and people say they do. Thanks fellas :beer:


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## VENEZOLANO (Jan 13, 2008)

*Corrado SLC 92 non ABS*



DUBZAK said:


> Late abs does not have prop valve on the rear beam, all controlled by the control unit/pump. Delete the valve, bleed the system.


Thanks for your response (please excuse my English). My Corrado has a proportioning valve in the rear axle and a pressure regulator (in front ) as Oichan says you must connect the pressure regulator to the rear line to avoid lock up in the rear wheels. The car stops but the pressure on the pedal has to be very strong. We bleed the system 4 times using different techniques and no solution. Thanks again


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## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

HavokRuels said:


> Let me tell you something, you are the man. It's a white hard plastic line and it's right on the drivers frame rail, I had the assumption that it was cruise but I didn't realize it worked off vacuum, according to the Bentley layout, it looked like a self sustained system with its own vacuum pump. :beer: for you sir
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


Guys,

I have a related mystery in my 1990 G60. I have the following vacuums lines going into the interior through the firewall from the engine bay:

1. Hose for the HVAC system controls
2. Hose for the gauge cluster
3. Hose for the cruise control
4. Mysterious rigid white hose that goes through the firewall near the cruise control hose (3.) and appears to then run under the carpet. I haven't picked up the carpet to see where it goes from there.

I was thinking central locking but according to ETKA and various other posts around that appears to be a closed system (the pump iis n the pass side rear fender wall and no vacuum lines leave the interior area). 

I also saw Sr. Karmann suggesting that it was the washer fluid line for the hatch glass..which would make sense since the PO did a washer bottle delete (for some odd reason). So, maybe its not a vacuum line at all. 

Havok, what was your conclusion? Its tough to follow that post train earlier in this thread.

thanks,
eddie


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## tod914 (Dec 6, 2011)

*2 gauge console question*

I have a 92 SLC, was thinking about installing the oil press & volt gauge cluster in the console. Read up on that. Got the impression the cluster housing needs to be modified to fit. My question is, was this cluster an option for a 92 model year car, or was it 93+ model year cars that had it? 

Thanks, Tod


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## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

tod914 said:


> I have a 92 SLC, was thinking about installing the oil press & volt gauge cluster in the console. Read up on that. Got the impression the cluster housing needs to be modified to fit. My question is, was this cluster an option for a 92 model year car, or was it 93+ model year cars that had it?
> 
> Thanks, Tod


It was 93+ only. From what Iv seen its pretty easy.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

g60301 said:


> I have someone willing to trade me girling 60's for my stock 54's. I know there heavier them the 54's, is the performance from the 60's noticeable as apposed to my stock calipers? Should I trade or no? I've done a little research on if they'd fit the 54 carriers, and people say they do. Thanks fellas :beer:


They are huge, weigh a ton, but I run them and really do not mind the bulk. I did however need a spacer to clear them with an 8 ET35. 9 ET 35 cleared them fine I guess due to the differences in back spacing on the mounting pad. 

Also the pads do not full face the rotor, but it is livable. 



VENEZOLANO said:


> Thanks for your response (please excuse my English). *My Corrado has a proportioning valve in the rear axle *and a pressure regulator (in front ) as Oichan says you must connect the pressure regulator to the rear line to avoid lock up in the rear wheels. The car stops but the pressure on the pedal has to be very strong. We bleed the system 4 times using different techniques and no solution. Thanks again


Delete this ---->*My Corrado has a proportioning valve in the rear axle *, and run new lines. 

Test your ABS Pump. It may be failing. 



tod914 said:


> I have a 92 SLC, was thinking about installing the oil press & volt gauge cluster in the console. Read up on that. Got the impression the cluster housing needs to be modified to fit. My question is, was this cluster an option for a 92 model year car, or was it 93+ model year cars that had it?
> 
> Thanks, Tod





jettalvr41 said:


> It was 93+ only. From what Iv seen its pretty easy.


93+ Only, and it does not fit the greatest in the 92 Bezel without cutting. It can be done, but the old school 2 gauge pod for Early Interiors looks the business. I'd recommend getting one of those if you do not want to cut up the plastic of your dash.


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

Anybody have actual info on short runner for the 12v. I read all 16 or so pages on the forced induction page and seems like everyone is saying schimmel intake is over tuned? 

I haven't had mine made yet and just wanted some good straight forward info.


----------



## Wompa (Oct 30, 2009)

I got stainless 2.5'' downpipe and a 2.5'' stainless catback exhaust with two silencers.


Would a 2.5'' 200cells catalytic converter make any sound difference than my original 600cells?


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Just got this installed, it gave me a check engine light.......not hot enough?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

jettalvr41 said:


> Anybody have actual info on short runner for the 12v. I read all 16 or so pages on the forced induction page and seems like everyone is saying schimmel intake is over tuned?
> 
> I haven't had mine made yet and just wanted some good straight forward info.


For Turbo? One of the best made manifolds if you want a short runner. Overtuned? Well lets say it will shift the powerband further up due to there being no equal length, just a big plenum and the lower section that is similar to the oem manifold. 

There are plenty of self made short runners using the lower manifold. 



Wompa said:


> I got stainless 2.5'' downpipe and a 2.5'' stainless catback exhaust with two silencers.
> 
> 
> Would a 2.5'' 200cells catalytic converter make any sound difference than my original 600cells?


depends on the shape of the cat and if it offers a difference in resonance. 




blackslcchild said:


> Just got this installed, it gave me a check engine light.......not hot enough?


check the light by scanning it. If the exhaust is all you touched, you probably should check the O2.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Will do. :thumbup:


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## VENEZOLANO (Jan 13, 2008)

*Corrado SLC 92 non ABS*

Delete this ---->*My Corrado has a proportioning valve in the rear axle *, and run new lines. 

Test your ABS Pump. It may be failing. 

Thanks Mr. DUBZAK. I deleted the original ABS of the car, so there is no ABS pump to test. Again thanks to you and to the forum. :wave:


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## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

tod914 said:


> I have a 92 SLC, was thinking about installing the oil press & volt gauge cluster in the console. Read up on that. Got the impression the cluster housing needs to be modified to fit. My question is, was this cluster an option for a 92 model year car, or was it 93+ model year cars that had it?
> 
> Thanks, Tod





DUBZAK said:


> 93+ Only, and it does not fit the greatest in the 92 Bezel without cutting. It can be done, but the old school 2 gauge pod for Early Interiors looks the business. I'd recommend getting one of those if you do not want to cut up the plastic of your dash.


One does not need to cut the plastic of the dash to fit the 93+ guage pod, one needs to cut the plastic of the guage pod. It's too tall to fit, so you need to cut the excess material off the top. I just cut off the two upper mounting brackets on the guage pod with some snips and then took a belt sander to the top of the guage pod as this was easier than cutting a straight line. I had to take an inch or so off the top. Now it fits in perfectly just by pressing it in.
As long as you can take the excess material off in a clean line and not take too much off you can make it fit in 5 minutes. 
Also, then you need to get a vdo oil pressure sender so that you have something to wire the oil px guage up to. And you need a T adapter so you can screw both the oil px sender and your oil temp sender into your oil filter housing. I got my sender and t fitting from 42 draft designs.


----------



## njloco (Apr 2, 2009)

*spaze mode:*

1993 SLC, pretty much stock, but do have a Godspeed aluminum radiator in it.

When the car is first started there are no problems, once the car is running for say 10 minutes it starts to run rich or that is what it seems like, and smells like. It feels like the car is not running on all cylinders, this happens whether it's driven or left to idle, and it's like clock work. It may or may not go in and out of spaze mode while idling or driving, it seems to be worse or last longer when it's raining out. Usually once it stops happening it doesn't come back but on occasion it has.

When checked on the OBD1 analyzer it only showed a G42 code, but my mechanic said it doesn't make any sense and when he disconnected the cam sensor it did not through any code. I cleaned up all the ground wires and spots to which they are connected or grounded to.

I am thinking that it might be the sender for the coolant temperature ( G62 ).

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

P.S. I have disconnected the sensor for the coolant temperature, except for loosing the Temp. gauge, nothing else happened, tomorrow i'll leave the sensor disconnected and see what happens when it's cold and I first start it.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

njloco said:


> 1993 SLC, pretty much stock, but do have a Godspeed aluminum radiator in it.
> 
> When the car is first started there are no problems, once the car is running for say 10 minutes it starts to run rich or that is what it seems like, and smells like. It feels like the car is not running on all cylinders, this happens whether it's driven or left to idle, and it's like clock work. It may or may not go in and out of spaze mode while idling or driving, it seems to be worse or last longer when it's raining out. Usually once it stops happening it doesn't come back but on occasion it has.
> 
> ...


It sounds like your mechanic has overlooked something very basic. Something that needs to to reach 650 F before it acts as a conductor and sends a signal...oxygen sensor.


----------



## ml1986 (Apr 27, 2012)

What kind of driveshafts does the experts use?

Car in question, 1990 G60 O2a transmission.

What im thinking of buying:

http://www.amazon.com/Empi-80-6812-Joint-Half-Shaft-Assembly/dp/B007XP14M8#productDetails

http://www.amazon.com/Empi-80-6802-...e=UTF8&qid=1345144821&sr=1-2&keywords=80-6802


----------



## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

how did you guys paint your gas tank door in one piece or did you take it apart and paint it separately. the reason i am asking this is because i'm painting my corrado and want to know which way works best.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

VWcorrado1994 said:


> how did you guys paint your gas tank door in one piece or did you take it apart and paint it separately. the reason i am asking this is because i'm painting my corrado and want to know which way works best.


There'll be less masking involved if you simply put some foam tape in the gap. That's if you're not hardcore and want to drop the filler neck for an edge less job.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

ml1986 said:


> What kind of driveshafts does the experts use?
> 
> Car in question, 1990 G60 O2a transmission.
> 
> ...


Those will work just fine...for a minute. Empi half shafts are Chinese junk. For $50 a pop, it's not a bad deal. I'm sure you'll get a year out of them before they start popping. 
I still have a few OEM shafts somebody cleared out years ago for next to nothing. I remember paying $700 for one from VW and getting the same NOS one for less than $100. 
The OE shaft diameter is twice as thick as Empi's.


----------



## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

True but the OEM stick is hollow, the EMPI's are solid. That being said, I still prefer hollow big area to solid small area (and yes, I know about the shear equations )

In my experience, depending on how and what you drive, EMPIs could be just fine. If you're nearing 200HP and dropping the clutch flat, or if you on full throttle with lots of steering then yeah, you may be asking for trouble. But for regular street use in a car not pulling gobs of horsepower you'll be fine.

The best way to do it (for the money) is to get used OEM shafts and replace the inner and outer CVs with GKN-Lobros (the OEM CV manufacturer). Or, what I do for the rally car is just replace the outer CVs since those are the joints that are taking most of the abuse since they see steering angles.

Or get rebuilt axles at autozone and replace them if/when they bust using the warranty. 

The most common failure I've seen in racing is either the outer CV completely fails (the cage blows apart due to steering while under throttle) or the splined shaft on the outer CV that pokes into the hub shears off. It's much rarer for the actually axle to shear. Of course that's driving on dirt roads where you are always on the throttle, even when braking.

So IMO if you aren't constantly fast and furious and running close to stock power, EMPIs are fine. 
-e


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## Nebby (Jun 2, 2003)

What was causing this clicking? It remained and was constant even after engine shutdown.

Unplugging the yellow wires on the right made it stop... restarted and shut down the engine, the noise did not return.


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## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

Hey guys,

The ground wire from the battery in my car was routed to a kill switch and then to the chassis by the previous owner. I took all that out months ago and now I'm putting some wiring back in. Does someone have a pic or can someone tell me where the "main" ground wire from the battery connects to? From my mk2 16v experience I know there is a big ground to the a tranny bolt with a threaded stud on it (there is also a lead to the frame horn). But, there is no stud on the tranny on the 02A. There is a stud near a starter bolt, is that it? Pics or verbal description would help.

Actually, I just recalled seeing this thread:
http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6014

But I can't tell which ground connection is factory and which is added. 

thanks!
-e


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## NoCYet (Feb 10, 2001)

Nebby said:


> What was causing this clicking? It remained and was constant even after engine shutdown.
> 
> Unplugging the yellow wires on the right made it stop... restarted and shut down the engine, the noise did not return.


 That's the fan control module. It controls the after run operation of your cooling fans, and your aux cooling pump. It's probably bad. They aren't super expensive. less than $150 new IIRC.


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## Nebby (Jun 2, 2003)

NoCYet said:


> That's the fan control module. It controls the after run operation of your cooling fans, and your aux cooling pump. It's probably bad. They aren't super expensive. less than $150 new IIRC.


Thanks... so after I unplugged and re-plugged... the clicking went away, and after a ride home, the fans still work post ignition turn-off. Safe to say things seem OK for now?


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## Dreizehn (Nov 2, 2005)

blackslcchild said:


> Just got this installed, it gave me a check engine light.......not hot enough?


I remember the day I received my TT exhaust and unpacked it. Circa 2003!!!


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

What kind of driveshafts does the experts use?

Car in question, 1990 G60 O2a transmission.

Give Autotech a call. They had several Factory, NEW in box, new old stock Loebro axles. Some had the OE factory vibration dampeners on them. It's all about the bearings. These are what's on the Stg III G60 torque monster built here. Look to pay about $1H


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## CAH8 (Dec 22, 2011)

'91 G60 Mechanical skills, not enough to rebuild a supercharger


How often is a supercharger rebuild recommended for a G60 running a BBM stage 4 kit? Would this change If I were to go to a 58mm pulley. Here is the link for the pulley.

http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/465/BBM_58mm_G_Lader_Pulley


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## G2Performance (Jun 4, 2007)

It voids their warranty, that should tell you something.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

CAH8 said:


> '91 G60 Mechanical skills, not enough to rebuild a supercharger
> 
> 
> How often is a supercharger rebuild recommended for a G60 running a BBM stage 4 kit? Would this change If I were to go to a 58mm pulley. Here is the link for the pulley.


With a 58mm (stupid small), I've heard as low as 15K miles before needing new strips. 
If you can't do it yourself, I don't think the extra power to cost ratio is really worth it. 
BBM will be more than happy to rebuild it for you. As mentioned, they won't warranty anything.


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## CAH8 (Dec 22, 2011)

mateok said:


> With a 58mm (stupid small), I've heard as low as 15K miles before needing new strips.
> If you can't do it yourself, I don't think the extra power to cost ratio is really worth it.
> BBM will be more than happy to rebuild it for you. As mentioned, they won't warranty anything.



What's the recommended time for 65mm? 20k miles?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

PulleyLader revolutions
87 mm9.100 r.p.m.
75 mm10.560 r.p.m.
72 mm10.980 r.p.m.
70 mm11.280 r.p.m.
68 mm11.640 r.p.m.
65 mm12.180 r.p.m.
62 mm12.720 r.p.m.
60 mm13.200 r.p.m.

With a 58mm, you're maxing out an already fragile unit. It's like driving your car around with it constantly redlined. It may not explode but, it sure wont last very long like that. 
Have you upgraded you MAP sensor?


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## CAH8 (Dec 22, 2011)

mateok said:


> PulleyLader revolutions
> 87 mm9.100 r.p.m.
> 75 mm10.560 r.p.m.
> 72 mm10.980 r.p.m.
> ...



Does the bbm stage 4 kit do that?


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Well, I just replaced the rear wheel bearings and kaboom! It solved my annoying noise at 40mph. 
I also replaced my fuel lines and I'm just waiting on my samco cooling hose kit and my thermo/ coolant pipe kit.


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## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Nebby said:


> Thanks... so after I unplugged and re-plugged... the clicking went away, and after a ride home, the fans still work post ignition turn-off. Safe to say things seem OK for now?


Here is my opinion. The after run system is only really needed if you are a hard driver and beat on it, park it and walk away. Or of course it gets hot where you live. In WI summers top out at 90s. So I deleted and bypassed the after run pump. Not really necessary. So if your after run fans work and you aren't racing for pinks, don't worry about it.

sent from my omni tool.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

denzil_wasson said:


> Did search.
> 
> 93 SLC, owned for about 4 years now - swapped to g12++ along with a few other cooling system bits.
> 
> ...


So ordered 1H0121422 D from the dealer. They sent 1H0121422 with not letter at the end. That one came from Canada. It had the G-11 designation. they returned it and ordered 1H0121422 *D*. That arrived from Germany. It's blank?! 357121422*E *superceeds to* D. *

It would appear as though VW hired interns to apply different designations over the same part # one Summer. The G12 coolant expansion tank cover is Obsolete and only NOS now.


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## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

petethepug said:


> The G12 coolant expansion tank cover is Obsolete and only NOS now.


 Boooooooo!!!


----------



## Wompa (Oct 30, 2009)

In going to get a second hand set of kw dampers with 40/40 springs... I didn't know kw made just dampers with springs so my question is, are the kw as good a koni yellows and what will a Corrado Vr6 look like with 40/40 lowering?

And the seller says that kw sold these for all corrado models... Are that really true? Springs for a 1.8 and a 2.9?


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## mikIIVr6 (Dec 12, 2007)

*hit ground hard*

did i blow my flywheel? My motor hit the ground so hard the oilpan dented in. the motor was making a wack noise until it died with a noise like teeth were breaking, could hard impact break my flywheel, i just had a new stage2 clutch and flywheel installed. still on warranty i'm hoping this is the problem and not chain slip because i just did new chain and guides too. what would cause catastrophic falure like this from impact to motor?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

mikIIVr6 said:


> did i blow my flywheel? My motor hit the ground so hard the oilpan dented in. the motor was making a wack noise until it died with a noise like teeth were breaking, could hard impact break my flywheel, i just had a new stage2 clutch and flywheel installed. still on warranty i'm hoping this is the problem and not chain slip because i just did new chain and guides too. what would cause catastrophic falure like this from impact to motor?


The flywheel isn't behind the oil pan. Unless there's a hole in the bellhousing, I doubt it. It does however, sound like you've suffered a catastrophic, whack engine failure. 
Does the starter engage anything when spun?
I seriously doubt that warranty will be honored for the clutch. 
That breaking tooth sound was most likely your timing chain sprockets being chewed up. 
You'll have to take it apart and take a look.


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## mikIIVr6 (Dec 12, 2007)

I cracked the block, chainbtoke and is exposed.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

mikIIVr6 said:


> I cracked the block, chainbtoke and is exposed.


That sucks:thumbdown:
Based on your description, it sounded catastrophic. 
Good news, VW made more than one VR6 engine:thumbup:


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## mikIIVr6 (Dec 12, 2007)

yup, on to the next one lol


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Hows it going guys?

Well I have a little issue, since ive had the corrado there has been a clicking sound in the relay/fuse box whenever I press the brake and every other second when the car is in neutral and idling the same clicking sound appears but with the issue of making the car loose power. I can see the headlights blink and the dash whenever the click happens. Its like a tenth of a second.:sly:


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## ajhvw93 (Oct 26, 2009)

blackslcchild said:


> Hows it going guys?
> 
> Well I have a little issue, since ive had the corrado there has been a clicking sound in the relay/fuse box whenever I press the brake and every other second when the car is in neutral and idling the same clicking sound appears but with the issue of making the car loose power. I can see the headlights blink and the dash whenever the click happens. Its like a tenth of a second.:sly:


I have experienced something similar w/o the relay clicking sound. Check you abs relay. As far as losing power when hitting brakes.... check your headlight wire harness. I had two exposed wires just before the pig tail connecter. Covered wires problem gone.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I rewrapped the headlight wires. It only losses power when its at a stop. Thanks.


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## mikIIVr6 (Dec 12, 2007)

*A good buy?*

a motor im looking at purchasing is a 2001 mk4 12v with obd1 manifold and tb converted onto it, running on mk3 wiring & ecu, rebuilt with 268 cat cams, good buy for $1200 with tranny & godspeed rad with slim fans?


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## mikIIVr6 (Dec 12, 2007)

g12+ isn't a vw product so i don't think you could find one with that on it


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## [email protected] (Mar 2, 2013)

*1993 corrado*

1993 corrodo vr6 alarm system bypass or repair.Ignition busted out by someone trying to steal car& it will no longer even crank over. Just have lots of lights flashing!!


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

*seat tilt cable*

one of the seat tilt cables is loose on my passenger seat (the cable towards the center of the car).. 

is there an 'easy' fix for this, or am i going to have to tear off the leather, because of thats the case, i will just rig that side as always up.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

[email protected] said:


> 1993 corrodo vr6 alarm system bypass or repair.Ignition busted out by someone trying to steal car& it will no longer even crank over. Just have lots of lights flashing!!


http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14289


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

still having an Egr problem. Car passed two years ago with flying colors (readings-wise). They passed me without an EGR and I tried to take it back to the same shop to get smogged this year. As of 1/1/13 my car needs to be smogged at a STAR station (so old shop is out). Failed twice already once for no egr equipment, and the 2nd (after installing all egr stuff and wires (had to replace t42 connector because it was missing egr solenoid and egr temp sensor wires)) because egr failed functionality test - tech applies vacuum to the egr and rpms are supposed to drop, but mine did not. 

Took the egr system apart again and cleaned all the crud out of it. It appears to be functioning fine (apply vacuum to egr and the piston moves up - allowing air to move from the bottom of the egr to the end of the egr that routes to intake mani). Put it back on the car and applied vacuum to the egr and rpms don't budge. Did some more digging and found that the bentley says that you should get no more than 1.5 ohms at the egr solenoid plug (I get 1.610 ohms - bentley wasn't clear what to do once you find the readings out of range). Reinspected all egr piping and connections and have completely cleaned carbon buildup from egr associated parts



Other than this egr crap, car runs perfectly

forgot to mention that I've gotten the same results with 2 different (and clean) egrs and 2 different egr solenoids


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

valet said:


> still having an Egr problem. Car passed two years ago with flying colors (readings-wise). They passed me without an EGR and I tried to take it back to the same shop to get smogged this year. As of 1/1/13 my car needs to be smogged at a STAR station (so old shop is out). Failed twice already once for no egr equipment, and the 2nd (after installing all egr stuff and wires (had to replace t42 connector because it was missing egr solenoid and egr temp sensor wires)) because egr failed functionality test - tech applies vacuum to the egr and rpms are supposed to drop, but mine did not.
> 
> Took the egr system apart again and cleaned all the crud out of it. It appears to be functioning fine (apply vacuum to egr and the piston moves up - allowing air to move from the bottom of the egr to the end of the egr that routes to intake mani). Put it back on the car and applied vacuum to the egr and rpms don't budge. Did some more digging and found that the bentley says that you should get no more than 1.5 ohms at the egr solenoid plug (I get 1.610 ohms - bentley wasn't clear what to do once you find the readings out of range). Reinspected all egr piping and connections and have completely cleaned carbon buildup from egr associated parts
> 
> ...


I would check for a problem with the wiring. That's the only thing that didn't change when you swapped them out. Make sure it's clear all the way into the manifold. 
Vag-Com codes will tell you exactly where to look. 
17848 EGR Valve Circuit-power stage open
17816 EGR Temperature Sensor-signal to high
17815 EGR Temperature Sensor-signal to low
17810 EGR Valve Circuit-short to B+
17809 EGR Valve Circuit-power stage short to ground
17808 EGR Valve Circuit-electrical malfunction
01265 EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Valve-N18
00586 EGR System Control
00585 EGR Temperature Sensor-G98
00560 EGR Temperature Sensor Short
00314 EGR Two Way valve (N161)


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

mateok said:


> I would check for a problem with the wiring. That's the only thing that didn't change when you swapped them out. Make sure it's clear all the way into the manifold.
> Vag-Com codes will tell you exactly where to look.
> 17848 EGR Valve Circuit-power stage open
> 17816 EGR Temperature Sensor-signal to high
> ...


I did change the wires because my car's harness didn't have the egr wiring - so I had to get a different t42 harness and swap it in


vagcomed it yesterday and got the following codes:

Saturday,02,March,2013,15:14:28:63198
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.5
Doozer
Address 01: Engine Labels: 021-906-258.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 021 906 258 CD
Component and/or Version: MOTOR PMC 3
Software Coding: 0261203041
Work Shop Code: 1267357423 
VCID: 58B1750DB8E5B5D839C
2 Faults Found:
00525 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor (G39) 
03-10 - No Signal - Intermittent
01265 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve (N18) 
31-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
Readiness: N/A

cleared the codes and then fixed some broken/brittle wires on the ISV and then tried the vacuum test. Car was idling at 920 rpms and when I applied vacum to the egr, idle dropped to 840 rpm... I don't know if that's enough of a drop in rpm to pass out here in california 

I've scanned the car a few times since clearing the codes, and the old codes have yet to come back


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

What's the cel engine code one long flash, two quick flashes, one quick flash, then two four flashes?

2144? What's that? Oxygen sensor? Knock sensor g66?


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

Anyone know whether the frame rails of a mk3 are wider than the frame rails of a mk2/corrado. I know the subframes are interchangeable, but are the rails themselves the same width apart?


----------



## carbikb (Jul 26, 2010)

how do you know if your car is obd1 or obd2, and where is the obd plug located ?
i have a 93 corrado vr6.


----------



## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

blackslcchild said:


> What's the cel engine code one long flash, two quick flashes, one quick flash, then two four flashes?
> 
> 2144? What's that? Oxygen sensor? Knock sensor g66?


2144 Knock sensor II Faulty sensor wiring, faulty sensor, or faulty control unit


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

carbikb said:


> how do you know if your car is obd1 or obd2, and where is the obd plug located ?
> i have a 93 corrado vr6.


Does your car have an ISV valve?
Unless you purchased your '93 with an OBDII swap, you're OBD1. 
Only '96+ cars have OBD port connectors. You have a VAG-COM connector located under the shift surround.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Slider388 said:


> 2144 Knock sensor II Faulty sensor wiring, faulty sensor, or faulty control unit


I tried looking for the knock sensor ll . Is it the front one below the coolant pipe or...


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> I tried looking for the knock sensor ll . Is it the front one below the coolant pipe or...


That's 1. Knock 2 is on the back of the block.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Where exactly? I tried lookin in the Bentley.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

What, you can't find it looking at some rudimentary drawing in the Bentley?
I quick google search popped up this. 
http://www.fallastarmedia.com/vortex/headgasket/large/02.jpg


----------



## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

Mk2 control arms, same as g60's?


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Would that affect the performance of the engine?
I don't notice it.

Thanks.:thumbup:


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> Would that affect the performance of the engine?
> I don't notice it.
> 
> Thanks.:thumbup:


The knock sensor is a piezoelectric sensor that contains a piezoelectric sensing crystal and a resister. This crystal creates a small amount of voltage when shaken. 

If too much vibration (knocking) is achieved, it will send a signal to the ECU to retard the timing. Obviously, that will temporarily degrade performance. It's possible to have received some bad fuel in the past, resulting in a stored knock code. Symptoms are usually observed at highway speeds, unable to achieve high speed. 

If you don't have any symptoms, it's probably an old code. If you do, loosen and re-attach the sensor (15 ft-lbs), check for improvement.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I do have an issue, sometimes whenever I shift fast and apply the gas heavily I feel a "pop" or small "explosion" around the catalytic converter. Sometimes. This all started when I got the techtonics/borla setup installed which shortly after the engine cel code to knock sensor ll was produced.

So I went outside and wiggled and disconnected/ connected the knock sensor and the code went away.
Now I have a 1231 code on the engine cel both rear speed sensors.....


----------



## MrBland (Jul 9, 2010)

*VR6 Radiator Fan*

Does anyone know if the radiator fan set up on the VR6 is on any other VW's? Mine went out and I was wondering if I'd be able to hit up a junkyard to try and find a replacement. Or is my best luck going to be the classifieds or buy a new one? 

Thanks!


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

MrBland said:


> Does anyone know if the radiator fan set up on the VR6 is on any other VW's? Mine went out and I was wondering if I'd be able to hit up a junkyard to try and find a replacement. Or is my best luck going to be the classifieds or buy a new one?
> 
> Thanks!


I'm almost certain that the Corrado cooling system is unique to the VR6. I know that the radiator on MK3 VR6 is taller than the Corrado and the dual fan set up in the Corrado has a fan belt in the assembly. However someone could correct me. Passat B3 might work, not positive.

sent from my omni tool.


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

im having central locking issues.
see this thread for full details:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...eds-bits-of-help.-Bring-your-knowledge-inside.

long story short. locking the door from the drivers side blows the fuse. locking the car from the passenger side does not blow the fuse, but does not active full locking. I have jumped power to the wire that triggers full locking and it blows the fuse. i have eliminated the door wiring harness as the problem. i have checked for continuity to ground from the R/Y wire (full lock) and it is not shorting to ground. i have unplugged the alarm, and pump modules , and the fuse still burns. I CAN lock/unlock the entire car using the pin in the drivers door. I am dying to get this fixed today. 

im in toms river, nj if anyone is close and wants to help cuz im about to freak out.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

mtp said:


> im having central locking issues.
> see this thread for full details:
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...eds-bits-of-help.-Bring-your-knowledge-inside.
> 
> ...


do you still have automatic seatbelts? might wanna try unplugging the relays


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

Sr. Karmann said:


> do you still have automatic seatbelts? might wanna try unplugging the relays


I do and they work without a hitch. Quick search says that this relay is behind the rear passenger quarter panel? I didnt think the seatbelts were at all on the same circuit as locks?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

mtp said:


> I do and they work without a hitch. Quick search says that this relay is behind the rear passenger quarter panel? I didnt think the seatbelts were at all on the same circuit as locks?


There is one for each belt and they locate behind the rear doorcards, there is a 10a fuse, remove that too. Not saying this will correct the problem, but worth a shot


----------



## walldoctor (Nov 19, 2012)

*question*

My cluster back lights are not coming on. Pixels on mileage all haywire. 
Is there such a thing as to many volts?
Since this has happened volt meter is running 13.5 close to 14 
Any ideas.


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

so,,, checked for continuity to ground from R/Y at the windows/roof module. and sure enough its grounded out. 
now i need to figure out how to trace this garbage


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

walldoctor said:


> My cluster back lights are not coming on. Pixels on mileage all haywire.
> Is there such a thing as to many volts?
> Since this has happened volt meter is running 13.5 close to 14
> Any ideas.


I told you in the thread you created for this problem that the cluster voltage stabilizer (J6) is likely toast. You cannot repair this. You must acquire a new cluster or circuit board (J285). Look at the wiring diagram for this and it'll be very clear.


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

welp it seems ive royally mucked something up...

was digging around trying to get the locking issue sorted. i plugged all the locking clips back in and the alarm module. cycled the locks with the pin, and when i turn the ignition the alarm goes off. I have to pull the clip out of the alarm module to stop it, and without it, it also wont start. with the key turned the volt gauge is barely pushing 10. fml



Edit
I dunno wtf is going on. Fixed the alarm thing by letting it go off then unlocking with the key. And now. When I lock the door with the key,the fuse doesn't blow and it locks the passenger door......


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

mtp said:


> welp it seems ive royally mucked something up...
> 
> was digging around trying to get the locking issue sorted. i plugged all the locking clips back in and the alarm module. cycled the locks with the pin, and when i turn the ignition the alarm goes off. I have to pull the clip out of the alarm module to stop it, and without it, it also wont start. with the key turned the volt gauge is barely pushing 10. fml
> 
> ...


Have you verified the driver's door handle microswitch is still good?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

mtp said:


> Edit
> I dunno wtf is going on. Fixed the alarm thing by letting it go off then unlocking with the key. And now. When I lock the door with the key,the fuse doesn't blow and it locks the passenger door......


Central locking should lock both doors, unless the door switch (the one in the jamb) is faulty. Check to see if you have vacuum on the DS locking mechanism if you can hear a vac leak somewhere or if that line may be pinched :thumbup:


----------



## walldoctor (Nov 19, 2012)

*mateok thanks*

I wasn't not listening I saw the same thing in the Bentley.
I was just hoping that wasn't the issue. Prayed more like it.
So I ran the car for a while and let it warm up, everything settled down to were it normally is on volt meter.
So I drove to the bank and back and the pixels started to show signs of returning to normal.
I have yet to check back light in the cluster do to it being not very bright in the first place. And very sunny out today 69 aint to bad for Denver this time of year.


But seriously thanks for quick response mateok.
Do you still think it is the voltage regulator ? Volts back to normal right at 12.5-13


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

walldoctor said:


> I wasn't not listening I saw the same thing in the Bentley.
> I was just hoping that wasn't the issue. Prayed more like it.
> So I ran the car for a while and let it warm up, everything settled down to were it normally is on volt meter.
> So I drove to the bank and back and the pixels started to show signs of returning to normal.
> ...


I thought you were checking voltage at the cluster. You had high voltage throughout the car? That's something else entirely. Well, hopefully the cluster voltage stabilizer did its job and protected the circuit board. It sounds as if you might have lucked out. 
Find out what's up with your alternator.


----------



## walldoctor (Nov 19, 2012)

No it was me watching volt meter voice around. I didn't actually test it. 
I'm having someone bring me a volt meter so I can actually check volts from alt. Bat, etc.
I was most concerned about the pixels all f.. up and the back light of cluster. Bulbs ? I checked all fuses.
But now I remember my Audi would do that sometimes when it was hot all day and then cold all the sudden at night.


----------



## walldoctor (Nov 19, 2012)

It all concerns me !!! Actually, greatly...concerned on all maters


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I do have an issue, sometimes whenever I shift fast and apply the gas heavily I feel a "pop" or small "explosion" around the catalytic converter. Sometimes. This all started when I got the techtonics/borla setup installed which shortly after the engine cel code to knock sensor ll was produced.
What could it be? 

So I went outside and wiggled and disconnected/ connected the knock sensor and the code went away.
Now I have a 1231 code on the engine cel both rear speed sensors.....


----------



## cortsvw (Mar 8, 2013)

*Short to Ground except when Crank sensor is unplugged*

2001 VW Golf 2.0 AEG engine
I am moderately good at working on cars.

My Golf turns over but will not start. 6 different codes are short to ground. The codes go away with the crank sensor unplugged except for 0322 engine speed sensor of course. As soon as I plug in the crank sensor all the short to ground codes some back. I have read lots of threads and changed the following based on what I read.
-Crank shaft sensor replaced
-FP relay replaced
-pulled battery and had it tested. It is good.
-Checked all the grounds under battery, unbolted, cleaned remounted.
-verified fuses above battery.

Any thoughts? Please let me know what else to try!


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

Two part general question:

1. General corrado checkups and maintenance. Things to pay attention to? Avoiding rust? Etc...

2. General vr6 checkups and maintenance? 

Just want to to keep this thing pristine for as long as possible. I suppose these things really could be applied to any car but also want some Corrado specific tips and tricks .


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cortsvw said:


> 2001 VW Golf 2.0 AEG engine
> I am moderately good at working on cars.
> 
> My Golf turns over but will not start. 6 different codes are short to ground. The codes go away with the crank sensor unplugged except for 0322 engine speed sensor of course. As soon as I plug in the crank sensor all the short to ground codes some back. I have read lots of threads and changed the following based on what I read.
> ...


way to ruin your first post in the wrong forum :laugh:



mtp said:


> Two part general question:
> 
> 1. General corrado checkups and maintenance. Things to pay attention to? Avoiding rust? Etc...
> 
> ...


FAQ


----------



## cortsvw (Mar 8, 2013)

*How?*

I dont do forums well. I am learning. Where should I post the question?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cortsvw said:


> I dont do forums well. I am learning. Where should I post the question?


Tossing you a bone :laugh:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/forumdisplay.php?4-Golf-IV-Jetta-IV


----------



## LaramieDub (Aug 10, 2009)

*G60 piston replacement questions*

I'm in need of help trying to get my G60 running. I had 5PSI and 15 PSI compression in cylinders 1 and 4 so I took the head off thinking it was a head gasket. Instead, I found this:


















Good times! The piston even wiggles around slightly in the cylinder. 

The head gasket turned out to be fine. These pistons look pretty shot. I bought a new head gasket, head bolts, rod bolts/nuts, bearings, and a piston ring set. I have a donor engine (1990 cabriolet 8v) with 60k on the block. I pulled the pistons out of that (they look great) to use in the Corrado thinking they would be the same :banghead: 

Well, they aren't the same. The Cabriolet pistons don't have as deep of a "dish" in the top as the G60 ones. After attempting to research it looks as if the rods are different too? I'm assuming this creates different compression?

My question: Can I use these cabriolet pistons and use the original rods? Or will I detonate my block? If I can't use these, what are _inexpensive_ options for me to go with? I'm totally okay with getting crazy at a scrap yard. I'm a broke college student and 600 bucks on a new piston set just isn't going to happen. Also, I'm not looking for longevity. I just want it to run for now. I'll have the funds to do a proper full rebuild in the near future.

Any help on this subject would be greatly appreciated! And remember, I'm a touch clueless on all of this


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

LaramieDub said:


> I'm in need of help trying to get my G60 running. I had 5PSI and 15 PSI compression in cylinders 1 and 4 so I took the head off thinking it was a head gasket. Instead, I found this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I might be nuts, but those pistons just look dirty to me. I don't think you should be able to move them though. And no, you can't use cabby parts.

At this point your best bet would probably be to buy a used motor that you know just runs. You could probably find one that someone is taking out for a VR!!


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

1956dub said:


> I might be nuts, but those pistons just look dirty to me. I don't think you should be able to move them though. And no, you can't use cabby parts.
> 
> At this point your best bet would probably be to buy a used motor that you know just runs. You could probably find one that someone is taking out for a VR!!



What about finding a good condition 2.0 aba block and double stacking the headgaskets? I'd imagine the aba route could be cheaper than the Vr route


----------



## LaramieDub (Aug 10, 2009)

valet said:


> What about finding a good condition 2.0 aba block and double stacking the headgaskets? I'd imagine the aba route could be cheaper than the Vr route


I also posted this on the G60 technical forum and like 1956dub, they recommended I try and find some used pistons. I hadn't even thought of looking on the classifieds here :screwy:

I found a set for 80 shipped, which seems pretty good? 

What is the idea behind stacking head gaskets? To lower compression or to create more valve clearance?

Also, as far as the pistons being dirty I can see how it looks like that in the pictures. I'm pretty sure its physical damage because after cleaning the tops #1 and #4 are physically pitted and worn down on the edges. I'll pull them out all and way and post pictures. If you guys think I could re-use them though I'll go with that.

When I get the used pistons, should I clean them with a wire brush? Or would that be too abrasive?

Thanks for the help and suggestions guys :beer:


----------



## walldoctor (Nov 19, 2012)

What plug is this? runs along pass fender?


----------



## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

walldoctor said:


> What plug is this? runs along pass fender?


I can't say for sure but I want to say its the connector for the daytime running lights in the na headlights. check if you get power across it when you turn the headlight switch on, if so then that's probably what it is.


----------



## walldoctor (Nov 19, 2012)

Running lights come on. I had ac compressor removed but I thought that I removed that plug unless there are two to the compressor.


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

LaramieDub said:


> I'm in need of help trying to get my G60 running. I had 5PSI and 15 PSI compression in cylinders 1 and 4 so I took the head off thinking it was a head gasket. Instead, I found this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


The opportunity to do a leak down with the head on is gone. Possibility your guides were shot and letting all the compression blow by. Either way, it doesn't hold compression. Gonna keep the same head?

Piston wiggle? Cylinders walls might be shaped like this (▀). Start with Mic(rometer) on top, middle & bottom of cyl walls.
If in spec per Bentley send head out and inspect for symptoms that cause low compression.
If head initially shows ok, pull (Block or) pan, crank, rods/pistons. Mic/Flux pistons for wear/cracks and rings for same.
Keep in mind going down this path leads to detection of worn valves, guides, cracked head, pistons or block, wear on cyl walls, rings. It's a predictable path that inevitably costs $ for diagnosis. 





It's time to decide to stay oe and pay more or
Use VW parts bin and reach into the ABA 2.0 bucket.
If you're not set on keeping the G60 head you can run an ABA head on a PG Block. PG head on ABA block doesn't work. Low Comp for the blown motor comes from the G60 dished pistons. Don't use doubled up head gaskets to lower c/r. It will only get you 1/2 point down. 

If the block is dead made a decision on your budget: 



(Cheap) Junkyard G60 short block
(Cheaper) Source good ABA block and get custom 83 mm pistons for the 2.0 block (8.0-1 C/R).
(Kinda Cheep) Have OE block machined & reuse as many parts as possible with new bearings, rings, pistons.
(Old Standby) Have OE block machined with all new parts.
repoman did 2. here :thumbdown:
Click the blue arrow


----------



## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

On ecodes, do the inner bulbs (the ones that we put yellow bulb caps on) turn on with the low beams as well? or only with the high beams?


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

g60301 said:


> Mk2 control arms, same as g60's?





hoodita said:


> bare MK2 control arms
> 
> 191 407 151B
> 
> ...


No more $9 ones left at VW but here's what's out there

http://www.vagoem.com/z/part/191407151b-control-arm


----------



## XenoLlama (Sep 23, 2002)

Probably a dumb question, but the Corrado dash beam... Just tried to find a picture of what I am thinking of...

*IS* there a primary support beam behind the Corrado dash?! Or is it just run wiring and bolt the dash down?


For reference, a mk3 beam. For some reason I was expecting the Corrado to have something similar.


----------



## ajhvw93 (Oct 26, 2009)

walldoctor said:


> What plug is this? runs along pass fender?


I have a picture for you ...in regards to this
PM Sent


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

XenoLlama said:


> Probably a dumb question, but the Corrado dash beam... Just tried to find a picture of what I am thinking of...
> 
> *IS* there a primary support beam behind the Corrado dash?! Or is it just run wiring and bolt the dash down?
> 
> ...


corrados do have the beam (though it may have been removed at some point)


----------



## XenoLlama (Sep 23, 2002)

valet said:


> corrados do have the beam (though it may have been removed at some point)


Good to know. Mine certainly was removed at some point. I imagine it provides a decent amount of support for things like the gauge cluster and the radio?


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

all I've ever heard is that some people claim it offers additional support in side impacts - iirc nothing in the dash mounts to it


----------



## redcorradog60 (Aug 17, 2002)

*Fouling spark plugs*

Every time I run my corrado I foul the plugs ! Wtf is wrong with this thing


----------



## ajhvw93 (Oct 26, 2009)

walldoctor said:


> What plug is this? runs along pass fender?


Ambient temp sensor found on diff thd:laugh:


----------



## sircharlesmarz (Feb 3, 2013)

Central locking is not working...

After a bit of investigation (searched central locking pump which lead me to actuators and micro switches), I have a few assumptions as to what the problem may be with my central locking... But first, the symptoms:
1. Central locking pump does not actuate (I think I may have heard it working once when locking the passenger side door. not sure if if the DD locked though- didn't check=idiot...)
2. The passenger side door will not actually lock from the inside, I can push the lock pins down but you can still open the door from the inside and outside. However, the door does indeed lock if I use the key. 
3. I locked the passenger side door the other night (with the key) and went to open the drivers side door (which was already unlocked) and the alarm went off. This was the first time I knew that the alarm actually worked... I open the Drivers side door all the time while the passenger side is unlocked, this is the first time that has happened... So something is working intermittently...
Now for my assumptions:
Up until that one time when the central locking pump worked, and that other time when the alarm worked (1 day apart), I assumed that the pump itself was the problem. now I'm starting to think that maybe it has something to do with the locking actuators or the micro switches on the handles. This car has the upgraded door handles so perhaps something wasn't reassembled properly, or perhaps was broken during dis-assembly or reassembly.
Given that the alarm definitely works, and I think the pump works, maybe the micro switches are bad and the central locking components along with the alarm have no indication that the doors have been locked... Actually, the horn sounds when I lock both passenger and drivers doors... Now I'm not sure...

Anyone else have this experience? What was your solution?
Thanks,

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

sircharlesmarz said:


> Central locking is not working...
> 
> **snip


I'm not having the same exact symptoms but there is a lot of info regarding central locks and diagnosing the problem in my thread..

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...eds-bits-of-help.-Bring-your-knowledge-inside.


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

XenoLlama said:


> Probably a dumb question, but the Corrado dash beam... Just tried to find a picture of what I am thinking of...
> 
> *IS* there a primary support beam behind the Corrado dash?! Or is it just run wiring and bolt the dash down?
> 
> ...


That's the "knee bar" with the d/s & p/s pads removed. We don't see them out of the car too often although I can't wait to yank the ones out of my car and get the parcel shelves in.

Volvo used to market these padded bars as _Anti-Submarine Technology_. They kept the driver and passenger from sliding under the dash if the occupants slid out from under their seat belts. They look especially good in the Corrado so most don't mess with them. They can be removed from the US Spec cars but a small bit will show on the p/s center console used to attach the knee bar.

*where can i get the euro parcel shelves?*
or
*NON-AC Euro Parcel Shelves in AC G60*

xet33 had a black set sale for a steal $275. They're gooonnneee.


----------



## Ruby582 (Mar 13, 2013)

Hopefully this thread stays up top... If I see another thread asking to see 16 and 17 inch wheels on a corrado im gonna snap
Hell ive been hidding out in the mk1 forum due to this.


----------



## LaramieDub (Aug 10, 2009)

Thanks for the very detailed post. Haven't had a chance to get to the car yet but I ordered a micrometer and got my hands on a Bently so Ill use your suggestions and go from there.

Excellent link btw




petethepug said:


> The opportunity to do a leak down with the head on is gone. Possibility your guides were shot and letting all the compression blow by. Either way, it doesn't hold compression. Gonna keep the same head?
> 
> Piston wiggle? Cylinders walls might be shaped like this (▀). Start with Mic(rometer) on top, middle & bottom of cyl walls.
> If in spec per Bentley send head out and inspect for symptoms that cause low compression.
> ...


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Ruby582 said:


> Hopefully this thread stays up top... If I see another thread asking to see 16 and 17 inch wheels on a corrado im gonna snap
> Hell ive been hidding out in the mk1 forum due to this.


Cuz you like 15's? :laugh:


----------



## Jon o (Mar 13, 2013)

Hello all. My first post here. Im looking to purchase an early corrado as a cruiser. I was wondering if I would be able to fit a chevy 350 under there? If anyone has helpful info Id greatly appreciate it!


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Jon o said:


> Hello all. My first post here. Im looking to purchase an early corrado as a cruiser. I was wondering if I would be able to fit a chevy 350 under there? If anyone has helpful info Id greatly appreciate it!


----------



## Jon o (Mar 13, 2013)

As helpful as that is, lol, someone has to have some kind of knowledge of trying such a stupid idea as it might be.


----------



## pileofredparts (Mar 20, 2009)

Eric D said:


> 1993 Volkswagen Corrado 468ci Chevrolet V8
> 1/4 mile data
> 9.204 seconds
> 145.16 MPH trap speed
> ...


here is one


----------



## pileofredparts (Mar 20, 2009)

here is one in a rabbit mk1 which is smaller than corrado











another V8 not a chevy though
http://www.corradov8.com/










twin turbo V6









you wont get much advice here, if you have a welder and fabrication skills its definately doable.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Jon o said:


> As helpful as that is, lol, someone has to have some kind of knowledge of trying such a stupid idea as it might be.


Fab it if you want it, don't ask it.



pileofredparts said:


> here is one


perfect "cruiser" :wave:


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## Jon o (Mar 13, 2013)

Thanks guys! I just needed to hear it was going to fit in there. Im aware of the task thats ahead of me but I own a nice engine and theres a rust free shell thats for sale locally. Im not looking to drag it, like I said a nice summer car would be fun. I currently have a 79 firebird I had the same plans for, but the frame is rusted beyond what I care to fix. The corrado has really caught my eye so I am heading towards that direction. When I purchase the shell ill start a thread.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Jon o said:


> Thanks guys. I
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2


:thumbup:


----------



## Jon o (Mar 13, 2013)

Yea, as I was typing my 4 year old son decided it was time to wrestle, lol


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Jon o said:


> Hello all. My first post here. Im looking to purchase an early corrado as a cruiser. I was wondering if I would be able to fit a chevy 350 under there? If anyone has helpful info Id greatly appreciate it!


What a stupid idea :thumbdown:....I already feel sorry for the poor Corrado about to get all hacked up


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## Jon o (Mar 13, 2013)

Hacked up?

























Theres not much else I could do to the car. Its already striped, and has a fuel cell installed.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Jon o said:


> Hacked up?
> 
> Theres not much else I could do to the car. Its already striped, and has a fuel cell installed.


You could put a junkyard VR6 in and call it a day


----------



## Jon o (Mar 13, 2013)

If I could get enough money for my 350 and my firebird its a possibility. Im not trying to offend the vw/ corrado community by putting a huge american engine in, just seeing if I can use what I have.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Jon o said:


> If I could get enough money for my 350 and my firebird its a possibility. Im not trying to offend the vw/ corrado community by putting a huge american engine in, just seeing if I can use what I have.


Is the 350 built? Looking for some decent power in my boat, has a bone stock 350


----------



## Jon o (Mar 13, 2013)

I purchased my firebird a few months back and the engine obviously came with the car. The seller states that it is a 355 "race" engine. Im actually going to tow the car to the shop that did the work to check the fuel pump. Its not turning on, so before I dig in to the project I want to be sure thats the only issue. Ill have them look over the frame but Im about 95% sure the frame is bad which is why I started looking for replacements. A near by corrado guy posted the one I showed and I couldnt resist. So the short answer is, from what im told it is built. Ill have a better understanding next week.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Jon o said:


> I purchased my firebird a few months back and the engine obviously came with the car. The seller states that it is a 355 "race" engine. Im actually going to tow the car to the shop that did the work to check the fuel pump. Its not turning on, so before I dig in to the project I want to be sure thats the only issue. Ill have them look over the frame but Im about 95% sure the frame is bad which is why I started looking for replacements. A near by corrado guy posted the one I showed and I couldnt resist. So the short answer is, from what im told it is built. Ill have a better understanding next week.


General consensus would say no, if you have the time and follow thru drive to actually finish it, I'd say go for it. It won't be for the weak hearted, I'll tell you that much.

I'm not one for cutting up a Corrado, but that example is begging for something, plus if you do scrap it, that means mine is now more rare


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## Jon o (Mar 13, 2013)

Believe me, ive wanted that firebird for years. I want nothing more than to bring it back to its glory. I just have a horrible feeling ill be buying a whole new frame, thats not what I anticipated.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Jon o said:


> Believe me, ive wanted that firebird for years. I want nothing more than to bring it back to its glory. I just have a horrible feeling ill be buying a whole new frame, thats not what I anticipated.


Plenty of those around here


----------



## mattrip (Sep 5, 2005)

Removing gauge needles from instrument cluster. Any special precautions when removing, or do they simply pop off and go back on one way? Will the speedometer and tachometer need calibrating?


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

mattrip said:


> Removing gauge needles from instrument cluster. Any special precautions when removing, or do they simply pop off and go back on one way? Will the speedometer and tachometer need calibrating?


Use a fork to GENTLY pry them off. For some reason, the tachometer needle always seems to put up a fight. The fuel and temp needles will only go on one way so, no need to mark those. The speedometer needle should be marked before removing. I carefully lift it over the stop and let it come to rest. Place a mark on the housing for it if you're replacing the gauge faces, or one on the new face.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

What would be a nice catalytic converter for my vr6? I currently have a 2.5 borla exhaust with TT system.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

blackslcchild said:


> What would be a nice catalytic converter for my vr6? I currently have a 2.5 borla exhaust with TT system.


42 draft high flow cat :thumbup:


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Sweet, thank you sir^^^.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

blackslcchild said:


> Sweet, thank you sir^^^.


:thumbup::thumbup:


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

This one!
http://www.ngpracing.com/store/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=6836

I youtubed it and it sounds amazing.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

blackslcchild said:


> This one!
> http://www.ngpracing.com/store/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=6836
> 
> I youtubed it and it sounds amazing.


:thumbup::thumbup:


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Once again I'm here,

Why would someone put the coolant hoses like on the first two pictures?
Heater core hoses are backwards. The in is out and the out is in?



















When clearly the Bentley manual says vvv










11 and 12 are backwards on the first picture.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Anyone?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

blackslcchild said:


> Anyone?


 It doesn't matter, it's just a heater core


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Really?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

blackslcchild said:


> Really?


 Yup, it's just a heat exchanger man


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Sir, I thank you.
I've noticed my car runs a little cooler (from what my needle tells me). I was fearing the worst.


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## Hostile Motorsports (Mar 17, 2013)

Sr. Karmann said:


> It doesn't matter, it's just a heater core


 Fact. :thumbup:


----------



## Albert586 (Mar 17, 2013)

appreciate the help good sir, I'll be asking a lot of questions when it comes time for the motor swap I have planned haha.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

blackslcchild said:


> Sir, I thank you.
> I've noticed my car runs a little cooler (from what my needle tells me). I was fearing the worst.


 Cooler is better


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

my 93 doesnt honk when i lock, but the alarm works. anybody know how i can wire this up.


----------



## cultivated1 (Sep 14, 2007)

*Experts help required!*

Originally 1993 SLC VR6 ODB1 Coilpack 

My Goal: Build an all motor daily driver, swap over to odb2 so that it is much easier to diagnose, add or update software, and for tuning. 

Where is the project at? Well I bought a rebuilt motor, a clutch kit, and transmission, I have mounting brackets but I have no bolts what so ever. 
The shell didn't come with them and I have been having a hard time finding a bentley to look them up. 

Question Series #1 

Which tool is used to align the clutch to the motor? What are the steps for proper alignment? 
Which different bolt do I need to attach the transmission to the motor? Any bolt kits? 
Once this is all together which bolts are needed to mount it onto the shell with the brackets? 


Once this is finished I plan on moving onto upgrading the shell from odb1 to odb2 right before dropping in the motor which leads me to another series of questions. 

Question series #2 

Besides this list of odb2 parts am I missing anything I will need to upgrade from odb1? 
MAF, ECM, O2 Sensors, Upper Intake Manifold, Throttle Body, Engine Harness, Engine Compartment Harness.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cultivated1 said:


> Originally 1993 SLC VR6 ODB1 Coilpack
> 
> My Goal: Build an all motor daily driver, swap over to odb2 so that it is much easier to diagnose, add or update software, and for tuning.
> 
> ...


 Answered above in bold. 



Henry1rew4er said:


> ok new guys, rather than posting a TON of different threads, please post your questions in here so we can all try to help you out.


 Repost


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

The link to the Wiper arm mod is dead, anyone have an alternative write up?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

jewnersey said:


> The link to the Wiper arm mod is dead, anyone have an alternative write up?


 Not a write up, but there are 2 tabs near the hinge that need to be ground down with a dremel, you will see them and where it needs to be modified so the spring can allow more movement on the hinge. I used a dremel with a conical rasp


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

cool thank you


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

jewnersey said:


> cool thank you


 :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

Trying to fit a set of Merc wheels. The wheels are 17x7.5 et 37. I will need to run 4x100 to 5x112 adapters. Anyone know what size will work and not hit my fenders?


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

so if i try to roll the passenger window down, the motor goes, but the window sticks for a second then just falls straight into the door, itll roll up fine most of the time, or get kinked forward. if this happens i can pull it back to level, itll drop then i can roll it back up to normal. 

is it my regulator or did the window just come out of the guides or something else entirely.


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## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

jewnersey said:


> so if i try to roll the passenger window down, the motor goes, but the window sticks for a second then just falls straight into the door, itll roll up fine most of the time, or get kinked forward. if this happens i can pull it back to level, itll drop then i can roll it back up to normal.
> 
> is it my regulator or did the window just come out of the guides or something else entirely.


 Chances are one of the rollers on the regulator arm came out of the guides or the cable guides broke really weirdly, that's what happened to me last week when my window started kinking and being weird. The window itself rarely comes out of the window guides. 

I replaced them both with the politecnica/in pro cableless regulators from a1electric.com (140 a pop) this weekend and I couldn't be happier with them. Speedy, smooth, and they seal correctly.


----------



## Dorrado (Dec 12, 2001)

Relay 53 keeps clicking(every second or so) for me. I searched and it appears as though this is related to the horn. When i unplug the horn and hit the horn button and i can hear the relay click again in addition to the every second, yet when i unplug the relay and have the horns plugged in it still honks. I tried another relay 53 that i had in this position and it makes the same clicking noise. 

What does this relay do?!?! Thanks!


----------



## cultivated1 (Sep 14, 2007)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Answered above in bold.


 Thanks for the information about the tool, The website you provided is not working going to the plesk configuration for the server. 

Anyone else know where to shop for new bolts to mount my tranny to the motor and then the motor into my 1993 SLC Corrado its a VR6 5 speed.


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

Slider388 said:


> Chances are one of the rollers on the regulator arm came out of the guides or the cable guides broke really weirdly, that's what happened to me last week when my window started kinking and being weird. The window itself rarely comes out of the window guides.
> 
> I replaced them both with the politecnica/in pro cableless regulators from a1electric.com (140 a pop) this weekend and I couldn't be happier with them. Speedy, smooth, and they seal correctly.


 how can i go about checking 1 by 1. i dont have the money for the new regulator currently, so if i could get by without it, i would like to give that a shot first.


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

Any input on my merc wheel question?


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Dorrado said:


> Relay
> What does this relay do?!?! Thanks!


 It sounds like your horns have found an alternative power source. Relays stamped "53" are general purpose one's. there's nothing special about them. That clicking sound you're hearing is the trigger terminal (86) being fed power from a source other than the switch. The horn should not work with the relay removed. The horn button simply tells the relay to close 86 and feed power to 30. You likely have a wiring issue going on somewhere in the circuit.


----------



## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

jewnersey said:


> how can i go about checking 1 by 1. i dont have the money for the new regulator currently, so if i could get by without it, i would like to give that a shot first.


 First you'll have to take off the interior door card. DIY Here 
After that, you'll either see the oem opaque plastic sheeting, unless somebody messed with it previously and replaced it with something else. 

This sheeting tears easily and it's important to keep it intact (or replace it with something waterproof if you ruin it) as we have wet doors (water leaks down the window seals into the door and drains through holes at the bottom of the door, this sheeting keep the water from getting inside your car and ruining your door card). 

If its the oem opaque sheeting the top will be glued on with some adhesive, you can usually just peel it off, but the sides and bottom with have some stick black glue. I peel the top off and then use a knife or razor blade to cut the sticky black stuff in half along the bead, that way I can just stick it back together afterwards. 

Once the sheeting is removed roll the window down using the driver door switch or remove the pass switch and plug it in. You should be able to see how the regulator works and what's going wrong. 
Basically, there's a little plastic piece that's bolted into the bottom of the window with two bolts. The cable pulls this up or down along the vertical tube to raise/lower your window. Then there's two arms and at the end of the arms are little white plastic rollers that fit in a guide along the bottom of the window and keep the window level as it goes up or down. If you're lucky, one of those white rollers just popped out and you can bend the arm towards the outside a bit to make sure it stays in and then pop the roller back in. 

If you're unlucky, the cable is messed up (at the top and bottom of the vertical tube the cable is held in by two little plastic guides that break all the time) but this usually presents itself as the window not rolling up completely. It might be why it clunks to the bottom though. Also check the actual window guides on either side as you roll it up or down to make sure nothing looks wonky although these rarely mess up. 
While you're in there clean dirt and leaves out of the bottom of the door to make sure the drain holes stay clear. 
Good luck!:thumbup:


----------



## cultivated1 (Sep 14, 2007)

*Checked the bentley and disappointment...*

Checked the bentley and nothing about bolt sizes, just their torque specs. 

Model+Setup: 1993 Corrado SLC VR6 5 Speed Manual 

Which size bolt/s do I need to attach the transmission to the motor? 

Which size bolt/s are needed to mount it to the mounting bracket? 
If not the same which size are the motor to mount bracket? 

How many do I need to get to put this all back together? 

Help please desperate to get this build started going again!


----------



## ajhvw93 (Oct 26, 2009)

turtledub said:


> Trying to fit a set of Merc wheels. The wheels are 17x7.5 et 37. I will need to run 4x100 to 5x112 adapters. Anyone know what size will work and not hit my fenders?





turtledub said:


> Any input on my merc wheel question?


 What size tires or thickness of adapters? both?? With adapters your most likely going to have to roll 

W/o Adapters Most will run 205/40/17 and most have zero rubbing issues. Some like myself had one side rub on big bumps( had passenger side only). Personally no damage to tire without any added weight. You can run 195/40/17 for extra insurance but, you don not have as much of a contact patch and I do not know what kind of stretch 195 on a 7.5 rim will provide I'm thinking not much. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ders-offset-et-suspension-your-moms-horoscope


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

ajhvw93 said:


> What size tires or thickness of adapters? both?? With adapters your most likely going to have to roll
> 
> W/o Adapters Most will run 205/40/17 and most have zero rubbing issues. Some like myself had one side rub on big bumps( had passenger side only). Personally no damage to tire without any added weight. You can run 195/40/17 for extra insurance but, you don not have as much of a contact patch and I do not know what kind of stretch 195 on a 7.5 rim will provide I'm thinking not much.
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ders-offset-et-suspension-your-moms-horoscope


 I think the thinnest adapters are 18mm. I would like to go with 20mm just to be safe and have a warm fuzzy feeling.


----------



## onavarro8 (Oct 3, 2006)

Quick question. 
Planning on replacing my oil pan and gasket. I have seen different brands for both. What is the best oil pan to get and which gasket? Is the OEM gasket rubber? 

Thanks


----------



## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

onavarro8 said:


> Quick question.
> Planning on replacing my oil pan and gasket. I have seen different brands for both. What is the best oil pan to get and which gasket? Is the OEM gasket rubber?
> 
> Thanks


 Yeah, oem gasket is just rubber. Can't go wrong with victor reinz in my experience.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Slider388 said:


> Yeah, oem gasket is just rubber. Can't go wrong with victor reinz in my experience.


 If it's a 4 banger, I prefer replacing with the windage tray


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Wow, just wanted to know if cleaning the icv makes that much of a difference?

Because I just did and wow its amazingly smooth.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Slider388 said:


> Yeah, oem gasket is just rubber. Can't go wrong with victor reinz in my experience.


 X2


----------



## njloco (Apr 2, 2009)

*Spaze Mode:*

I thought I would update the original post as I have a better handle on exactly what is happening.

This is the original post,

"93 VR6, car drives pretty good but sometimes it sounds and acts like it's not firing on all cylinders. Starts up without a hitch but then starts to sputter. It would also clear up as I am driving and when it does it feels like a supercharger kicked in, usually once it corrects itself it stays running very well.

I have also noticed when this sputtering starts to happen if I stop, I get smoke coming from the back of the motor, between the firewall and the back of the engine. Can't really tell if it smells like oil or fuel, there is no residue left on the exhaust pipes, and nothing has caught on fire as yet, and I don't seem to be burning any oil.

My question is, could the EGR be causing this, I checked the wires as much as could be seen without taking anything apart so far, and when it was smoking and still running I couldn't see anything dripping on the exhaust pipes but the smoke is coming off the pipes all the way down passed the first muffler, is it possible that it is unburned fuel and that is why it's hard to figure out what it smells like ?, very puzzeling.

Oh, I did take the A/C compressor out and the condensor. 

Good question, I am pretty sure it's a coil pack since I don't see an actual distributor, like on an older american car. the spark plug wires come out of a box, hope that helps. 

Thanks




The above was the original post, I did the Ford coil pack change, seems to run better, but it still starts to sputter but not as much as before. When it goes into sputter mode ( this could be limp mode ), It starts to run rich, and I lose some cylinders, since I do loose power, if I stop, I get unburned gasses or smoke coming from the rear of the engine and along the exhaust system, the cat, wires and plugs are good and am thinking something is intermittently making it run rich or I am still loosing spark.

Could the EGR system cause this ?, it seems to be in good condition, and the car only has 121+ miles on it.

Thanks"


This last paragraph describes it best, a BIG THANKS, to one of the guys here as he has been PMing me with directions on what to check.

I have replaced the o2 ( this had 136 K on it and was probably due anyway ), and the blue CTS, I also know the CAT is good, same problem persists, If it warms up a little I'll recheck all the wiring. My local VW wrench is going to search for an ECU and MAF sensor ( hopefully today ) he may have for me to try out, if this doesn't work then I'll probably have to change the CPS's.

I'll let you know how it goes.


----------



## Mudkicker99 (May 11, 2008)

*Catalytic converter*

If anybody has a VR6 cat lying around in their garage, I would like to know the exact measurement of the length, flange to tip. Txs.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I'm replacing mine this Monday.(hopefully it arrives) I could send you the measurements.


----------



## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

I'm having a really weird problem I hope someone has experienced or has an idea about.

Car runs fine but once it warms up and goes closed loop the engine pulses every 3 seconds. Enough to jolt the whole car every 3 seconds, but the pulse/jolt is so fast I can't see a change in rpm.

It only happens while I'm holding or pressing the pedal down. Doesn't happen while I'm decelerating or idling.
It also does it if I'm just stopped and holding the engine revved up a bit in neutral, then I can usually see the rpm's dip for a split second every time it happens. 

Still makes power just fine and goes to redline but its really annoying and disconcerting. No blink codes either.

Any ideas or help greatly appreciated.


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Slider388 said:


> I'm having a really weird problem I hope someone has experienced or has an idea about.
> 
> Any ideas or help greatly appreciated.


First easy thing to change is your Blue cap coolant temp sensor. They are cheap and fail often.
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Cooling/181/2

This sensor sends engine coolant temp information to the fuel injection system. If that is faulty in your car, it could be causing your issue. Try changing the sensor and tell us if that helps.


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

I've got a question of my own.
93 corrado SLC. I broke my fog lamp switch.

This is the direct replacement.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Corrado--VR6_12v/ES401241/

Can I use this one? even though it has the rear fogs?
http://www.europeanperformanceprodu...ont-Rear----New-Style-Interior---Corrado.html


----------



## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

TheLateJetta said:


> First easy thing to change is your Blue cap coolant temp sensor. They are cheap and fail often.
> http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Cooling/181/2
> 
> This sensor sends engine coolant temp information to the fuel injection system. If that is faulty in your car, it could be causing your issue. Try changing the sensor and tell us if that helps.


My last one went bad about 4 months ago (engine was crazy rich on startup but would be okay after it warmed up) and I replaced it then. 
I don't think it's that as the issue starts a few minutes after starting the engine cold, blue temp sensor just contributes to open loop operation when the car first starts, right?


----------



## staygoldant (Apr 7, 2011)

*Starting issue*

Ok here we go... again....

I have searched in and out for a related thread but I can not find one that helps. 

I have a 1994 Sherry pearl Corrado vr6 164k miles 

Car runs very well, but for awhile I was having a starting problem. It will start fine, but then randomly it wont start... I turn the key there is power but nothing happens.. the volt meter reads about 11 when the key turns, everything turns on, stereo, lights guages etc. I have taken it to my buddies Euro shop but while its there it starts every time, so he has had a huge problem identifying the problem. 

We replaced the ignition switch, starting problem went away for awhile (2 months ) but then my car sat for a month, came home and now the problem is back. Right now its down the street not starting. I know once i get back to the car it will start. its like the car gets mad at me and refuses to start!!

Has anyone had any sort of problem like this?
I love this car so much, I want to fix it, but its embarrassing especially when you have a girl in the car and it wont start. haha :banghead:

Please, any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Does anybody have a picture of a 42 draft design catalytic converter? Specifically for a 92 Volkswagen corrado vr6, I Just want to verify mine with another.


----------



## bunkkaws (Feb 7, 2008)

TheLateJetta said:


> I've got a question of my own.
> 93 corrado SLC. I broke my fog lamp switch.
> 
> This is the direct replacement.
> ...



I am sure it would fit into the center bezel just fine. However the plug might not be the same or the wiring schematics because it's euro. So short answer is probably no for direct replacement and probably yes for custom modification replacement.


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Slider388 said:


> My last one went bad about 4 months ago (engine was crazy rich on startup but would be okay after it warmed up) and I replaced it then.
> I don't think it's that as the issue starts a few minutes after starting the engine cold, blue temp sensor just contributes to open loop operation when the car first starts, right?


Actually yeah you're right. Once its hot it should be smoother...

sent from my omni tool.


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

Don't think I saw this on FAQ but feel like it should be there..

What should I be looking for in the oil pressure gauge cuz it jumps all over the place .

also. have seen too many contrasting posts about this.

my vr6 has lowering shocks/springs, will i be able to fit 215/45/17 monte carlos?


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Just swapped the blue coolant sensor.









I'm picking up the other two tomorrow morning.

Can anybody answer my other question about the 42 draft design catalytic converter for the SLC corrado?


----------



## ajhvw93 (Oct 26, 2009)

turtledub said:


> I think the thinnest adapters are 18mm. I would like to go with 20mm just to be safe and have a warm fuzzy feeling.


I have seen 3mm which equals .118 125 would be 1/8 inch
5mm more common which equals .196 .250 would be 1/4 inch


----------



## Almost1 (Nov 3, 2010)

What connector are the hazards on the steering wheel? My hazard lights stay on sometimes (solid not flashing) and the button does not work when they are on. I have tried unplugging the relay, ign. switch, and the two connectors next to each other on the left side of the steering wheel. Is there something I'm missing?


----------



## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

I've got my sunroof pulled out and in pieces for a cleaning. I have the VW sunroof lube. Question: is it advised to lubricate the cables or just only in the sliders? Seems like there is a lot of friction from the cables alone but I thought the cables might slip at the motor if there's lube on them.

-e


----------



## zhemel (Apr 23, 2005)

Hey Experts,

I just picked up a 90 g60 with 128k, I has a stage 2 BBM charger and pluming. I have tried to contact BBM to see exactly what a stage 2 BBM charger is, to no avail. It does have its issues. Wing motor doesnt work, passenger door dosent open and for some reason the gas door wont pop. Any good sites that you guys use to buy oem parts? And does anyone know what a stage 2 BBM charger is?


----------



## redcorradog60 (Aug 17, 2002)

Is it possible for the blue sensor to be bad and always send a cold signal


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

zhemel said:


> Hey Experts,
> 
> I just picked up a 90 g60 with 128k, I has a stage 2 BBM charger and pluming. I have tried to contact BBM to see exactly what a stage 2 BBM charger is, to no avail. It does have its issues. Wing motor doesnt work, passenger door dosent open and for some reason the gas door wont pop. Any good sites that you guys use to buy oem parts? And does anyone know what a stage 2 BBM charger is?


http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/473/G60_Stage_2_Upgrade_Kit


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Almost1 said:


> What connector are the hazards on the steering wheel? My hazard lights stay on sometimes (solid not flashing) and the button does not work when they are on. I have tried unplugging the relay, ign. switch, and the two connectors next to each other on the left side of the steering wheel. Is there something I'm missing?


Faulty switch 



TheRealEddie said:


> I've got my sunroof pulled out and in pieces for a cleaning. I have the VW sunroof lube. Question: is it advised to lubricate the cables or just only in the sliders? Seems like there is a lot of friction from the cables alone but I thought the cables might slip at the motor if there's lube on them.
> 
> -e


Lube everything!!! 



redcorradog60 said:


> Is it possible for the blue sensor to be bad and always send a cold signal


yes


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

njloco said:


> I thought I would update the original post as I have a better handle on exactly what is happening.
> 
> Good question, I am pretty sure it's a coil pack since I don't see an actual distributor, like on an older american car. the spark plug wires come out of a box, hope that helps.
> 
> ...


Sounds like a dead or stuck Injector, or you have poped the head gasket which would explain the smoke. The smoke is something fluid form hitting the exhaust manifold. You need to do a "Leak DOwn Test" or other tests to see if the head gasket is blown. Also...
Start with QUALITY IGNITION PARTS, Doesn't matter, they all come out of a box. NGK BKR5EKUP Plugs too, unless modified heavily. 



TheLateJetta said:


> I've got a question of my own.
> 93 corrado SLC. I broke my fog lamp switch.
> 
> This is the direct replacement.
> ...


Plugs right in, and if you wire up the rear fog, that works nice too. I have this. 



staygoldant said:


> Ok here we go... again....
> 
> I have searched in and out for a related thread but I can not find one that helps.
> 
> ...


Sounds like a crank sensor or a bad ECU. Especially if the car will not restart when warm. 



bunkkaws said:


> I am sure it would fit into the center bezel just fine. However the plug might not be the same or the wiring schematics because it's euro. So short answer is probably no for direct replacement and probably yes for custom modification replacement.


Again, thanks for the reply but you are 100% off on this. Same Harness, both USA and Euro, only we got no rear fog light activated. You can use the euro switch for the fronts no problem. 



jewnersey said:


> Don't think I saw this on FAQ but feel like it should be there..
> 
> What should I be looking for in the oil pressure gauge cuz it jumps all over the place .
> 
> ...


The Connector is Loose on the Oil Filter Stand. Replace the connector so it is snug on the sending unit. 

A 215/45 is almost MK4 Sized, too big. 205/40 and 215/40. With most suspensions, it is impossible for us to tell over the internet if it will rub. With a 215/45 however I can say YES, most certainly. 



Almost1 said:


> What connector are the hazards on the steering wheel? My hazard lights stay on sometimes (solid not flashing) and the button does not work when they are on. I have tried unplugging the relay, ign. switch, and the two connectors next to each other on the left side of the steering wheel. Is there something I'm missing?


The whole Blinker Stalk Assembly is the hazard switch. Replace it. Should resolve the issues.


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Lube everything!!!


:what:.................... :laugh:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DUBZAK said:


> The whole Blinker Stalk Assembly is the hazard switch. Replace it. Should resolve the issues.


But if you're savvy, you can simply replace the switch 



RedYellowWhite said:


> :what:.................... :laugh:


Tru fo life :laugh:


----------



## zhemel (Apr 23, 2005)

mateok said:


> http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/473/G60_Stage_2_Upgrade_Kit



Thanks, I was looking in the wrong spot. :facepalm:


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I'm having some issues.

I still have that "pop" on the catalytic converter area whenever I shift and apply the gas heavily.

Is this related to my cel codes?
First code comes up to be 1231 Speed sender Faulty speed sender, bad speedometer cable, or bad cluster fuse.
Second code is 
2113 Camshaft position/hall sensor Rotor twisted, Defective sensor or wiring.
Third and last is 2144 Knock sensor II Faulty sensor wiring, faulty sensor, or faulty control unit.

Car starts every time.
Codes have been retrieved while the car is running.


Now on the abs cel light 
It shows both rear speed sensors codes.


----------



## staygoldant (Apr 7, 2011)

DUBZAK said:


> Sounds like a crank sensor or a bad ECU. Especially if the car will not restart when warm.



Sometimes I drive the car around the corner to the gas station, car has been running for maybe 3 minutes and it wont start. Last time it wouldn't start I was in the car for less than 5 minutes, parked, ate food for about 45 mins, came out and no start. Mind you my car DOES NOT turn over at all. 

Does it still seem like its Crank Sensor or ECU?

I appreciate the help DUBZAK


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Yes, and also sounds like vapor lock from the purge valve. Test light required on this one, Ohm out the sensor, check the ECU for burn spots on the board. 

Starter could also be an issue, just try to do diagnosis systematically.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

blackslcchild said:


> I'm having some issues.
> 
> I still have that "pop" on the catalytic converter area whenever I shift and apply the gas heavily.
> *Motor Mounts worn will cause the exhaust to hit the firewall, load the engine while in gear.*
> ...


Lastly, if you did brakes recently, did you swap over the trim rings from the old rotors? Check for broken wires for the wheel speed sensors too.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I haven't done anything except swap the wheel bearings.

Just ordered a brand new distributor and I just bought a new knock sensor II. What else should I do? All those codes bother me so much.


----------



## Shere Khan (Aug 30, 2000)

I have also had this hot/random starting problem, 
going to see if its the crank positon sensor.
Just letting you know that I have a new starter motor/battery/
cable to starter. All with less than two years and 13k miles. 
It did go away for about a year with all these new parts but it 
reared its ugly head again... 
Good luck. :thumbup:


----------



## staygoldant (Apr 7, 2011)

Shere Khan said:


> I have also had this hot/random starting problem,
> going to see if its the crank positon sensor.
> Just letting you know that I have a new starter motor/battery/
> cable to starter. All with less than two years and 13k miles.
> ...


My buddy has my car now at his shop, I hoping he can figure it out because I'm losing patience... If I get it fixed I'll let you know what it was. What a headache.. Good luck. :beer:


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Often overlooked is the Blue Coolant Temprature Sensor as well, if it is mis reading and thinking the car is too hot, it will flood the cylinders out. 

So that could be a problem too. I am much better at this with the car in front of me haha.


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

Just a quick wheel question. What size adapter will put me mostly flush with D90s? Now my reason for asking is that I have seen several set ups with 16x8 in the rear. Mine are 9. So I am trying to fit 16x9 and 16x7 on the car. Lowering springs and untouched fenders.


----------



## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

DUBZAK said:


> Lastly, if you did brakes recently, did you swap over the trim rings from the old rotors? Check for broken wires for the wheel speed sensors too.


Do you really need ABS? Are you ever driving the Corrado in the snow? 
I just clipped off my speed sensors and pulled the LED for the light. ABS felt like a waste of time in my summer car...


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

My car is coming back with 96 Passat ABS. I like to keep equipment.


----------



## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

TheLateJetta said:


> Do you really need ABS? Are you ever driving the Corrado in the snow?
> I just clipped off my speed sensors and pulled the LED for the light. ABS felt like a waste of time in my summer car...


Actually ABS and snow aren't necessarily a good thing. It's may very well be better to lock em up and hopefully dig down to something harder beneath the snow while plowing snow in front of the wheels.

ABS is great for sudden stops on both dry and wet pavement. So unless you are doing track days I'd keep it in there. You may never know when you wish you had it.


----------



## Rhino74 (May 31, 2010)

How in the F do you get the hood open? My lever is broken so I've got vice grips on there now but only the passenger side pops. Car has an eyebrow, painted grille and e-codes so I'd rather not have to break out the grille or headlights. Yesterday I tried with a coat hanger through the grille for a few hours but no dice.. 

any help here?

:beer:


----------



## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

I found what looks to be a relay on the rear deck underneath the rear passenger seat on the drivers side of my 90 G60. Is it for central locking? What is it? I could take a pic if need be.

Also, what does the connector attached to the lap belt recoiler on the front seats do exactly? Does it detect if the belt is pulled out and thus "in use"?


----------



## fordhack (Jul 11, 2002)

Rhino74, It may not work but try pushing down on the drivers side while somebody pulls the hood release cable. If you get it open throw rags over the holes for the pins until you can adjust the cable pulls till you get good movement on both sides. Otherwise you can try from underneath to pop it loose(not very easy) or start peeling out the front grill pieces...


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Rhino74 said:


> How in the F do you get the hood open? My lever is broken so I've got vice grips on there now but only the passenger side pops. Car has an eyebrow, painted grille and e-codes so I'd rather not have to break out the grille or headlights. Yesterday I tried with a coat hanger through the grille for a few hours but no dice..
> 
> any help here?
> 
> :beer:


Lucky you, one side open. You need one person to pull the cable and another to give some love taps with the palm of their hand so it doesn't leave any marks. It will jostle the other pin out of its base. If the love pat doesn't work have em try pushing down over where the hood pin is to help it find its way out.

If that doesn't work have the other person pat, tap the hood while lifting it and pushing it slightly. It took me about 15 minutes with two people working mine.


----------



## njloco (Apr 2, 2009)

*Dubzak re:reply 8144:*

Sorry, don't want you to think your help isn't read.

It's difficult to work, and, work on the car and, keep up here, don't know how you guys do it.

I discovered this after my updated post that you answered.

The car doesn't have any spark on 5 & 2 once it warms up ( usually in about 10-15 minutes ) it used to go in and out but now pretty much loses 2 & 5 and stays that way, though it has come back and ran fine ? I attempted to change out the ford coil pack but should have written down the wiring as I thought it was wrong for the newer used ford coil pack, my ICM set up is not listed in any of the Ford coil pack posts, so now I am experimenting in the dark.

Again, o2, blue CTS, MAF is good, ECM ?, will try and test this.

Thanks


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I noticed I have a oil cooler leak:thumbdown:

How hard is it to replace? 
Thanks guys.

(92 vr6 corrado)


----------



## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

blackslcchild said:


> I noticed I have a oil cooler leak:thumbdown:
> 
> How hard is it to replace?
> Thanks guys.
> ...


pretty easy, it's just a paint to get there from above with the manifold on, you'll probably want to go from below. You just need a big wrench to turn the cap nut at the end of the oil cooler, loosen it and the cooler will pop off. drain your oil first obviously. then swap out the two seals. you won't need a new cooler, just the seals, they go bad all the time.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Slider388 said:


> pretty easy, it's just a paint to get there from above with the manifold on, you'll probably want to go from below. You just need a big wrench to turn the cap nut at the end of the oil cooler, loosen it and the cooler will pop off. drain your oil first obviously. then swap out the two seals. you won't need a new cooler, just the seals, they go bad all the time.


 Sir, I thank you.

The problem was this little sucker:thumbdown: (I replaced all the coolant hoses except for these two due to lack of time :banghead: )
















Replaced it with the samco hose.

Question: yesterday I was heading to church and the coolant light came on, I immediately turn into a parking lot to see the reservoir.

Waited 10 minutes and took the cap off the coolant came up to below minimum level and was not boiling.

Prior to this incident I changed all the sensors of the coolant pipe. since then, the fan kicks in all the time. Coolant temperature stays above the 160 level and oil at 228(day of the oil cooler hose incident)

Is there a blown head gasket?
No smoke.

Only sensor I think might be wrong is the yellow section, I went to carqwest and they gave me a purple blueish sensor with a white light color ring around the sensor.


----------



## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

blackslcchild said:


> Sir, I thank you.
> Replaced it with the samco hose.
> 
> Question: yesterday I was heading to church and the coolant light came on, I immediately turn into a parking lot to see the reservoir.
> ...


Okay so it was a coolant leak then, correct? the hoses going to and from the oil cooler and coolant, not oil. If you had oil in that broken hose either your oil cooler imploded or your head gasket is gone. 

The coolant hose leak could explain why the level came back to below minimum.

If the fans are on high nearly all the time then that's indeed your yellow coolant sensor.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Slider388 said:


> Okay so it was a coolant leak then, correct? the hoses going to and from the oil cooler and coolant, not oil. If you had oil in that broken hose either your oil cooler imploded or your head gasket is gone.
> 
> The coolant hose leak could explain why the level came back to below minimum.
> 
> If the fans are on high nearly all the time then that's indeed your yellow coolant sensor.


No oil whatsoever in the oil cooler hoses. Drove around and no leaks. Took the reservoir cap off to see the coolant and its indeed pink.

Yes fans are almost always on.
I've read every where that the yellow sensor was updated to a purple sensor? That's what I have currently at the moment. I do have the old yellow sensor in my possession.


----------



## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

blackslcchild said:


> No oil whatsoever in the oil cooler hoses. Drove around and no leaks. Took the reservoir cap off to see the coolant and its indeed pink.
> 
> Yes fans are almost always on.
> I've read every where that the yellow sensor was updated to a purple sensor? That's what I have currently at the moment. I do have the old yellow sensor in my possession.


I'm not sure if it's been updated, I just know that that sensor is what controls the high speed fans and it can get stuck closed. I had a spare yellow one and that fixed it for me when my fans were always on high.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I guess I'll just buy the one from germanautoparts.com.


----------



## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

Looks like the one they have is a brown one. huh.


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

how the heck do i get these white clips to hold the fuse box?...

1. my fusebox struggles to rotate to vertical.
2. the clips are confusing. 

i would really like to accomplish this without having to remove the kneebars, etc.


----------



## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

jewnersey said:


> how the heck do i get these white clips to hold the fuse box?...
> 
> 1. my fusebox struggles to rotate to vertical.
> 2. the clips are confusing.
> ...


You use the clips? Look at you doing it right  I mess with mine so often I just have some bungee cords holding out of the way.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

jewnersey said:


> how the heck do i get these white clips to hold the fuse box?...
> 
> 1. my fusebox struggles to rotate to vertical.
> 2. the clips are confusing.
> ...


They sit vertical when clipped, notice the small hole above the post it clips to. Clip to post and rotate clip up 90* then push in to locking hole, rotate fuseblock up til it clicks/locks.

You may need to compress the wiring above the block and assure you have no wires pinched between the block body and bracket


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

turns out one of the posts is broken off.. shucks


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Any info on the sensors?


----------



## njloco (Apr 2, 2009)

*Regarding post 8124 and 8164:*

It ended up being a hairline crack in the Ford coil pack. The tip off should have been that it got worse in damp and rainy weather, the odd thing is it threw a G-42 code and my VW friend said from the get go, that, that didn't make any sense, I tracked it down by putting a timing light on each plug when it would slip into this spaze mode, don't forget, it started out happening 10-15 minutes after starting it up but would then run normal from there on. As time went by and I drove the car, it started to go in and out but only occasionally, until it finally started to miss all the time after warm up.

Thanks to every one who tried to help.


----------



## redcorradog60 (Aug 17, 2002)

I know this is probably another dumb question but I am pretty sure I have a compression leak on my g60 ! Will this affect the amount of boost coming from the gladder or not


----------



## cultivated1 (Sep 14, 2007)

*I guess I will try again...*

I have a rebuilt 5spd tranny going onto my rebuilt 2.8L 12v VR6 which is then going into my shell.
So-far I have sourced the brackets I need and now I need all the bolts.

Using the following links I tried to pull the bolt part numbers.
http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/COR/1993/76/51/843922/ Trans Onto Motor Mounting
http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/COR/1993/76/49/842822/ Motor Into Shell Mounting

FRONT BRACKET TO ENGINE TO MOUNT
N 10241603 x ??
N 10070403 x ??
N 90489701 x ??
REAR BRACKET TO ENGINE TO MOUNT
N 10268501 x ??
N 10175102 x ??
N 90553202 x ??
TRANS BRACKET TO TRANS TO MOUNT
N 10241603 x ??

TRANS TO MOTOR
N 0195241 x ??
N 90701604 x ??
N 0403381 x ??
N 90008602 x ??
N 10163301 x ??
N 0102276 x ??
BOLT12 UNKNOWN x ??

I am missing something and I am not quite sure the total amounts of each needed.
Anyone mind help me?


----------



## nomad1721 (Apr 4, 2005)

redcorradog60 said:


> I know this is probably another dumb question but I am pretty sure I have a compression leak on my g60 ! Will this affect the amount of boost coming from the gladder or not


No. A compression leak indactes a problem with your engine to create or maintain pressure in a cylinder. It can be caused by a number of things like bad piston rings, a failing head gasket and many others. 

Your G-lader will still be producing the same amount of boost whether you have a compression leak or not. 

If you think you have a compression leak, you should perform a compression test (cylinders ability to generate pressure) and/or a compression leak-down test (ability to maintain pressure), and determine which cylinder the problem is in.

FYI, not a good idea to drive around with a compression leak, you're just asking for more troble.

Good luck :thumbup:


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

Well posted!! (Last post)

Why is this bit a sticky yet? Hrrrrmmmm; cause I STARTED it. 

Gotta love politics!


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

cultivated1 said:


> I have a rebuilt 5spd tranny going onto my rebuilt 2.8L 12v VR6 which is then going into my shell.
> So-far I have sourced the brackets I need and now I need all the bolts.
> 
> Using the following links I tried to pull the bolt part numbers.
> ...



Contact your local FastenAll facility!, they have what u need.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cultivated1 said:


> I have a rebuilt 5spd tranny going onto my rebuilt 2.8L 12v VR6 which is then going into my shell.
> So-far I have sourced the brackets I need and now I need all the bolts.
> 
> Using the following links I tried to pull the bolt part numbers.
> ...





Noobercorn said:


> Contact your local FastenAll facility!, they have what u need.


Or the Dealer :thumbup:

Welcome back McNoob :beer:


----------



## nomad1721 (Apr 4, 2005)

Noobercorn said:


> Well posted!! (Last post)


Thanks :beer:


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

*Drivers Wheel*

So Im pulling up my block on my Slc and I hear noise coming from my front drivers wheel. I slow dwn and felt the car coming to a stop. Had my neighbor check the front tire as I tried to pull fwd and he told me the wheel didnt want to turn, and looked stuck...It sure felt like it was stuck on something.
Took the wheel off and checked brakes, calipers and disc components, all seem to be in order. Turned disc fwd and it seems to be getting stuck or not wanting to turn fwd, turns backwards just fine. Car was shifting fine as well. Just looking for some inside scoop (since I dont, cant and should'nt ride it to the shop) on what it could be or what it sounds to be like. Any insight is appreciated, thx


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

dfuze1 said:


> So Im pulling up my block on my Slc and I hear noise coming from my front drivers wheel. I slow dwn and felt the car coming to a stop. Had my neighbor check the front tire as I tried to pull fwd and he told me the wheel didnt want to turn, and looked stuck...It sure felt like it was stuck on something.
> Took the wheel off and checked brakes, calipers and disc components, all seem to be in order. Turned disc fwd and it seems to be getting stuck or not wanting to turn fwd, turns backwards just fine. Car was shifting fine as well. Just looking for some inside scoop (since I dont, cant and should'nt ride it to the shop) on what it could be or what it sounds to be like. Any insight is appreciated, thx


Wheel Bearing? Could be a CV locking up on you too. Jack the car and feel for any play in the hub or CV cocked funky


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Wheel Bearing? Could be a CV locking up on you too. Jack the car and feel for any play in the hub or CV cocked funky


I checked the hub, no play in the hub. I got the bearing changed along with a new hub bout a a yr ago so Im really doubting is that.

I was thinking it coulda been the CV but I wasnt too sure the CV could lock up like that...but It makes sense...any other thoughts gentlemen?


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

any opinions on the spoonfed gauge face replacements? Thinking about updating the cluster a bit (and it's a b-day present so no worries about the cash ) and am considering ddi (too bad they got rid of corrado logo and went to ddi logo :banghead or the spoonfed kits.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

valet said:


> any opinions on the spoonfed gauge face replacements? Thinking about updating the cluster a bit (and it's a b-day present so no worries about the cash ) and am considering ddi (too bad they got rid of corrado logo and went to ddi logo :banghead or the spoonfed kits.


I like my Spoonfed cluster over the DDI, looks more OEM and DDI kinda ricey, just my .02


----------



## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I like my Spoonfed cluster over the DDI, looks more OEM and DDI kinda ricey, just my .02


x2! :beer:


----------



## AZMK3GTI (Nov 7, 2012)

My Corrado is having a "hesitation". It seems to happen if i'm crusing at 45mph or so and then stop at a red light. Once i start to go again after the red light there is hesitation and the car jumps if i try to accelerate. I have had it in the shop for about 4 days and they can't seem to find the problem.
So far i've replaced to o2 sensor, fuel dampener, fuel pressure regulator, repaired wiring to IAC, and cleaned ECM. Any ideas?


----------



## 93CorradoLover (Nov 16, 2012)

Can anyone help out with my windows? So, the power switches have a light to them but nothing happens when you press them. I don't have a problem with not rolling down the windows but it's the gas I have a problem with. You must press the two buttons on the door to open it and I can't so I have to manually open the gas lever from the trunk. Such a pain in the ass especially when the car only gets about 22 miles. I've looked for a fuse but couldn't find anything. Can someone help me out?


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

AZMK3GTI said:


> My Corrado is having a "hesitation". It seems to happen if i'm crusing at 45mph or so and then stop at a red light. Once i start to go again after the red light there is hesitation and the car jumps if i try to accelerate. I have had it in the shop for about 4 days and they can't seem to find the problem.
> So far i've replaced to o2 sensor, fuel dampener, fuel pressure regulator, repaired wiring to IAC, and cleaned ECM. Any ideas?


Replace you're blue coolant sensor located on the "crack" pipe/ thermo housing, Clean the isv, all vacuum lines, and fuel pump ( fuel filter as well)

Those little things make a huge difference.:thumbup:


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

93CorradoLover said:


> Can anyone help out with my windows? So, the power switches have a light to them but nothing happens when you press them. I don't have a problem with not rolling down the windows but it's the gas I have a problem with. You must press the two buttons on the door to open it and I can't so I have to manually open the gas lever from the trunk. Such a pain in the ass especially when the car only gets about 22 miles. I've looked for a fuse but couldn't find anything. Can someone help me out?


I know why you're not bothered by leaving the windows up, you live in freaking Alaska, man.
That's a chaotic circuit. Look at all the junk tied into it...









Why do you have to push the window buttons to open the fuel door?
Get a test light or multimeter and start chasing the power. 

Verify you have power fuse. Check for power at the control module, then the switch, then the motors (ignition ON), and so on. 
Does your central locking work, sunroof?
You mentioned looking for a fuse. There's actually two fuses that govern that circuit. 
S14 (10A)
S52 (20A) that's mounted above a relay. It's located in slot 21. The power windows and ABS sharing the same fuse, bad idea.


----------



## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

*A4 tracks with B4 glass?*

Hey guys,

How well does a moonroof with A4 tracks and B4 passat glass fit a G60? Also, does it matter if the sliding shade is from an A4 or B4? Do they fit the same? Seems like people say the A4 glass doesn't fit right due to its contour, and the B3/B4 is the way to go. But I haven't seen anything about the shade mechanism.

thanks!
eddie


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheRealEddie said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> How well does a moonroof with A4 tracks and B4 passat glass fit a G60? Also, does it matter if the sliding shade is from an A4 or B4? Do they fit the same? Seems like people say the A4 glass doesn't fit right due to its contour, and the B3/B4 is the way to go. But I haven't seen anything about the shade mechanism.
> 
> ...


I am unaware that MKIV tracks work, but know MKIII does, B4 glass fits just as well as B3, IIRC a bit more contour, metal fits the best


----------



## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

Hmm, I found someone selling an assy from an early 99 jetta with the B4 glass. 99 would be A4 right althought wikipedia shows production of A3s into early 99? I'm waiting for a response from him.

Also, any insight into the shade? Will the mk3 shade fit ok with the passat glass? 

-e


----------



## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

Yeah, it was a later mk3 (early 99) model.

So, is it possible to out the original metal moonroof panel on a mk3 slider setup with vented shade?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheRealEddie said:


> Hmm, I found someone selling an assy from an early 99 jetta with the B4 glass. 99 would be A4 right althought wikipedia shows production of A3s into early 99? I'm waiting for a response from him.
> 
> Also, any insight into the shade? Will the mk3 shade fit ok with the passat glass?
> 
> -e





TheRealEddie said:


> Yeah, it was a later mk3 (early 99) model.
> 
> So, is it possible to out the original metal moonroof panel on a mk3 slider setup with vented shade?


MKIII shade will work fine


----------



## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

Sr. Karmann said:


> MKIII shade will work fine


You rock. Thanks! :thumbup:


----------



## AZMK3GTI (Nov 7, 2012)

I will look into that thanks


----------



## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

Alright, I need some help brainstorming guys. asap. 92 slc.
got my car running fine but the idle seemed to be pulsing. After 3 hours of driving it started idling rougher and dying until it died right after starting it. Started up the next morning, after 30 mins it did the same thing and hasn't started since.

-Turns over
-I'm getting spark (2 day old dizzy, coil/wires/plugs a few months old)
-Seem to be getting fuel-sprayed out of lines when I loosened the clamps
-Fuel filter is new, not sure about pump
-Crank/rpm sensor tests good- 549 ohms out of 500-700
-ECU and Fuel pump relays just a couple months old

What can I look at? Any ideas or help would be useful cause I'm at a loss. When I try to start it it turns over but nothing at all happens. Doesn't try to start or anything. Thanks for any help.

All I can think of is maybe the spark isn't strong enough? Coil tests at 1.1ohm out of 0.5-0.7 on the primary windings, 3.5k out of 3k-4k on the secondary. Spark looks pretty strong though.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheRealEddie said:


> You rock. Thanks! :thumbup:


:thumbup:



Slider388 said:


> Alright, I need some help brainstorming guys. asap. 92 slc.
> got my car running fine but the idle seemed to be pulsing. After 3 hours of driving it started idling rougher and dying until it died right after starting it. Started up the next morning, after 30 mins it did the same thing and hasn't started since.
> 
> -Turns over
> ...


check for vacuum leaks


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Slider388 said:


> All I can think of is maybe the spark isn't strong enough? Coil tests at 1.1ohm out of 0.5-0.7 on the primary windings, 3.5k out of 3k-4k on the secondary. Spark looks pretty strong though.


You really need a spark tester to determine that. Simply looking at it will tell you it's working, but not how well. 
Check for rpm's. That will verify primary ignition and rule out the crank sensor. A little propane in the manifold vacuum line will get it started if fuel is the problem.
What's the status of your fuel pump?


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## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

mateok said:


> You really need a spark tester to determine that. Simply looking at it will tell you it's working, but not how well.
> Check for rpm's. That will verify primary ignition and rule out the crank sensor. A little propane in the manifold vacuum line will get it started if fuel is the problem.
> What's the status of your fuel pump?


Couldn't find any obvious vacuum leaks, nothing big enough to keep it from starting anyways.

What exactly do you mean by check for rpms? Look at the tacho while turning it over? The tacho stays dead flat while I try to start it. 
I do remember when the last time it died I was driving and I was trying to restart it, for a split second the tacho shot up to 3k and then went back down although the motor was just turning over.

I'll have to get my hands on some propane or starter fluid.

I can't find any of the PO's receipts that deal with the fuel pump. Car is at 153k miles and it's been very well maintained its whole life, but there's definitely a chance the pump is still stock.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Look to the parts you just worked on 1st. I'd inspect plug wires at night for arc'g or a compromised wire connection. I just dealt with this on a set of bnib hi end silicone wires. The internal connection was bad to the coil wire. It caused an arc and fouling on the terminal at the cap on the coil wire. This usually occurred because the wires aren't pulled off at the boot however mine were bnib.


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## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

petethepug said:


> Look to the parts you just worked on 1st. I'd inspect plug wires at night for arc'g or a compromised wire connection. I just dealt with this on a set of bnib hi end silicone wires. The internal connection was bad to the coil wire. It caused an arc and fouling on the terminal at the cap on the coil wire. This usually occurred because the wires aren't pulled off at the boot however mine were bnib.


I'll check once it's dark out, they all resistance tested fine though.

I get blink codes for all the injectors so I'm assuming they're not firing...
and I don't get power to the ecu between the main wires at terminals 1 and 23 unless I jump the relay. even then it doesn't start.

Any chance I fried the ecu by unplugging it without disconnecting the battery? I just realized I did that after I did it.


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## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

Sorry if this was answered above but I don't think it was. 

Has anyone ever tried to use the original Corrado sunroof with a mk3 or B3/B4 slider assembly? Basically I have a A3 slider assy with B4 glass on its way to replace to my busted G60 slider assy. However, I'm kinda thinking I like the look of the metal sunroof over a glass moonroof. So I was wondering if I can swap the B4 glass with the G60 metal sunroof panel.

Anybody ever try that?

-e


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheRealEddie said:


> Sorry if this was answered above but I don't think it was.
> 
> Has anyone ever tried to use the original Corrado sunroof with a mk3 or B3/B4 slider assembly? Basically I have a A3 slider assy with B4 glass on its way to replace to my busted G60 slider assy. However, I'm kinda thinking I like the look of the metal sunroof over a glass moonroof. So I was wondering if I can swap the B4 glass with the G60 metal sunroof panel.
> 
> ...


you cannot, mounting points are different


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## Zorn1 (Jul 31, 2008)

I have an issue with my driver's side turn signal, as soon as i put on my parking lights or my headlights, it stops blinking and just stays solid. i've tried a search and didn't really come up with anything useful. i've checked grounds and they seem fine. i checked the stalk harness under the clamshell and it is fine. i checked the bulb itself and the bulb is clean. i noticed on the headlight harness, there is a red wire that goes to the positive terminal, and a brown one that went to the negative terminal. i tried to move the brown one to a different location to see if that made a difference, but no. oh and my hazards work fine with the headlights on or off. any ideas?


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## ntonar (Nov 21, 2000)

I love Gravy!


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Zorn1 said:


> I have an issue with my driver's side turn signal, as soon as i put on my parking lights or my headlights, it stops blinking and just stays solid. i've tried a search and didn't really come up with anything useful. i've checked grounds and they seem fine. i checked the stalk harness under the clamshell and it is fine. i checked the bulb itself and the bulb is clean. i noticed on the headlight harness, there is a red wire that goes to the positive terminal, and a brown one that went to the negative terminal. i tried to move the brown one to a different location to see if that made a difference, but no. oh and my hazards work fine with the headlights on or off. any ideas?


Possible bad turn signal switch.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Slider388 said:


> I'll check once it's dark out, they all resistance tested fine though.
> 
> I get blink codes for all the injectors so I'm assuming they're not firing...
> and I don't get power to the ecu between the main wires at terminals 1 and 23 unless I jump the relay. even then it doesn't start.
> ...


Test power from ECM to ignition coil. I'm pretty sure if the test light remains solid while someone cranks, you have a bad ECM


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

ntonar said:


> I love Gravy!


MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM GGGGGGGGRRRRRRAAAAAAAVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVy eace:


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

more vr6 then corrado specific, but what the hell::::

from a stop, in either first or reverse, when i release the clutch and the gear starts to engage, i get a creaking noise from the front end. it goes away after i fully release the clutch, and will occur if i have the brake on and am not moving. i can feel it resonate through the shift rod. 

i read somewhere about a clutch bearing? but now im not so sure.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

jewnersey said:


> more vr6 then corrado specific, but what the hell::::
> 
> from a stop, in either first or reverse, when i release the clutch and the gear starts to engage, i get a creaking noise from the front end. it goes away after i fully release the clutch, and will occur if i have the brake on and am not moving. i can feel it resonate through the shift rod.
> 
> i read somewhere about a clutch bearing? but now im not so sure.


Before you suspect your clutch, shakedown your front end and makes sure its good. Your shifter is like a probe, it will detect chassis issues too. Especially if you say its on a stop and go basis only, could be the weight of the vehicle shifting and something up front is worn out and making the noise.

I'm no expert but usually a throw out bearing makes a high pitched whine upon clutch release. 

Sent from my cellular

Follow me on Instagram: europeein


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## Halojunkie222 (Oct 27, 2009)

*Coolant system question*

I've been doing my research in the "search" function but I havent been able to find anything specific to my ordeal. 

So my radiator fans finally stopped functioning last night. I havent had the chance yet to diagnose if its the fans, FCM, relays or whatnot....

But i planned on upgrading to 2x 12" electric fans and using a stand-alone fan controller. 
namingly this http://dccontrol.com/relay_controllers.htm

Now, i dont fully understand what role a lower temp thermostat would play here. Since i'd be using a stand-alone temperature probe, and the aftermarket fan controller....would i see any benefit from the low-temp therm? Thanks in advance! :beer:


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## 00JetVR6mk4 (Jun 18, 2010)

1993 corrado slc vr6
i beleive its internal threading tie rod, where the tie rod screws into the rack. 
Will a mk4 tie rod same thread fit my corrado?
i just got new tires and need an alignment and they said the cant do it with a bad inner tie rod end which comes with a new tie rod. the mk4 one looks the same so i figured it would fit. will it?
To answer my own, mk4 tie rod is CONSIDERABLY shorter then corrado.


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## 00JetVR6mk4 (Jun 18, 2010)

Halojunkie222 said:


> I've been doing my research in the "search" function but I havent been able to find anything specific to my ordeal.
> 
> So my radiator fans finally stopped functioning last night. I havent had the chance yet to diagnose if its the fans, FCM, relays or whatnot....
> 
> ...


when the thermostat opens at a lower temp and u have ur fans set to come on sooner or same temp id say it would be fine. gonna b one cool vr.


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## Halojunkie222 (Oct 27, 2009)

00JetVR6mk4 said:


> when the thermostat opens at a lower temp


so the low temp thermostat controls the flow of the coolant to an from the motor? So if my temps were in check before the fans gave out, then i should probably just leave the thermostat in there since the range that it was at is what i was hoping for, and adjust the fans accordingly via the stand-alone controller. Sweet :beer:


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

so my sunroof wont close.

it opened fine while i was driving. and now, it wont budge. motor doesnt even make a noise. i check the fuse (#4) and it looked okay, hayylp


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

jewnersey said:


> so my sunroof wont close.
> 
> it opened fine while i was driving. and now, it wont budge. motor doesnt even make a noise. i check the fuse (#4) and it looked okay, hayylp


Took off the cover, unplugged and plugged back in the connector at the motor... Worked.... Oook vw


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

jewnersey said:


> Took off the cover, unplugged and plugged back in the connector at the motor... Worked.... Oook vw


That's due to a phenomenon called "fretting". Metal contacts expand and contract due to temperature changes. This causes the terminals to fret back and forth against each other. Over time, the terminal will ride up on the accumulated oxide and break the circuit.


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

00JetVR6mk4 said:


> when the thermostat opens at a lower temp and u have ur fans set to come on sooner or same temp id say it would be fine. gonna b one cool vr.


Or you could be overworking an already taxed system!!!!


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

TheRealEddie said:


> Yeah, it was a later mk3 (early 99) model.
> 
> So, is it possible to out the original metal moonroof panel on a mk3 slider setup with vented shade?



As a matter of fact it is, but the inside panel is not. 

B3/b4 is the best chassis to get a moonroof from for a Rado as the contour is EXACT and fit is perfect.


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

AZMK3GTI said:


> My Corrado is having a "hesitation". It seems to happen if i'm crusing at 45mph or so and then stop at a red light. Once i start to go again after the red light there is hesitation and the car jumps if i try to accelerate. I have had it in the shop for about 4 days and they can't seem to find the problem.
> So far i've replaced to o2 sensor, fuel dampener, fuel pressure regulator, repaired wiring to IAC, and cleaned ECM. Any ideas?


Think it was said: vacuum !!!


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

93CorradoLover said:


> Can anyone help out with my windows? So, the power switches have a light to them but nothing happens when you press them. I don't have a problem with not rolling down the windows but it's the gas I have a problem with. You must press the two buttons on the door to open it and I can't so I have to manually open the gas lever from the trunk. Such a pain in the ass especially when the car only gets about 22 miles. I've looked for a fuse but couldn't find anything. Can someone help me out?


You have a short somewhere. Start at the battery and ohm out each lead and see where the draw is, and from there trace the circuit and slowly (yes it's a pain) find the issue sir.


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

mateok said:


> That's due to a phenomenon called "fretting". Metal contacts expand and contract due to temperature changes. This causes the terminals to fret back and forth against each other. Over time, the terminal will ride up on the accumulated oxide and break the circuit.


Well that's depressing


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## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

Halojunkie222 said:


> so the low temp thermostat controls the flow of the coolant to an from the motor? So if my temps were in check before the fans gave out, then i should probably just leave the thermostat in there since the range that it was at is what i was hoping for, and adjust the fans accordingly via the stand-alone controller. Sweet :beer:


The thermostat controls the flow of coolant through the radiator. It stays shut until whatever temp it is so the coolant can warm up while its going through the motor, and then once it reaches its temp it starts flowing it through the radiator to start cooling it. So if you have a low temp thermostat it'll start cooling the coolant at a lower temp and your engine will run cooler.


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## Halojunkie222 (Oct 27, 2009)

Noobercorn said:


> Or you could be overworking an already taxed system!!!!


Any suggestions on how to tell that? I know that (at least part) of the reason my fans stopped working is the radiator coolant temp sensor-- the part on the radiator close to the battery. The Previous Owner basically pulled the top part of the plastic off because he didnt disconnect the cannon plug, just pulled on it. Would you suggest just replacing the fans, bypassing the fan controller for a standalone, and leaving the thermostat as it is??
thanks for the help


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

anyone break the plastic slot that the screw goes into for the a-pillar... cuz i sure did.. need ghettoFix solutions. 

current winner:

find a bracket shaped like this ___|--o--|___ (side view) the 0 is the screw hole (not side view). :banghead:


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## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

I just installed the A1 electric window regulator on the passenger side and I'm noticing that when I trigger the window to fully open by pressing the window switch and holding it momentarily that the window does proceed to fully open, however when it bottoms out the motor is still getting current. The window is essentially against the hard stop but the motor is still being driven.

If I then tap the switch again either way (open or close) the current (and motor) stops. 

Reading up on this it looks like others have had this issue but I haven't seen anyone with a verified solution. So I turn to the experts.


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## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

TheRealEddie said:


> I just installed the A1 electric window regulator on the passenger side and I'm noticing that when I trigger the window to fully open by pressing the window switch and holding it momentarily that the window does proceed to fully open, however when it bottoms out the motor is still getting current. The window is essentially against the hard stop but the motor is still being driven.
> 
> If I then tap the switch again either way (open or close) the current (and motor) stops.
> 
> Reading up on this it looks like others have had this issue but I haven't seen anyone with a verified solution. So I turn to the experts.


Actually maybe I can answer my own question. I read somewhere that the WCM detects the increased current draw of the "locked" motor at that is what signals it that the window is at the bottom or top of its travel. The hypothesis was that the A1 motor may draw less current than the OEM motor and thus the WCM may never be signaled that the window is at its end of travel. So, one idea I just came up with is to measure the resistance of the motor (if possible) and use a resistor in series with the A1 motor to drop the resistance and thus increase the current draw. Of course, one would need to be careful not to fry the WCM. 

On second thought, I could use an ammeter to measure the current through the oem motor at lock position (my drivers side) and then measure the current draw through the A1 motor at the locked position (new pass side). I then can confirm if they are drawing different current amounts. If they are, with the current draws on each side know, I can calculate the resistor needed on the passenger side to get the currents to match at the locked position. Sounds reasonable enough .

-e


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

Window issue fixed but... Does this ball go in any further?










Seems like it doesn't but in not trying to take this junk off again


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## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

TheRealEddie said:


> Actually maybe I can answer my own question. I read somewhere that the WCM detects the increased current draw of the "locked" motor at that is what signals it that the window is at the bottom or top of its travel. The hypothesis was that the A1 motor may draw less current than the OEM motor and thus the WCM may never be signaled that the window is at its end of travel. So, one idea I just came up with is to measure the resistance of the motor (if possible) and use a resistor in series with the A1 motor to drop the resistance and thus increase the current draw. Of course, one would need to be careful not to fry the WCM.
> 
> On second thought, I could use an ammeter to measure the current through the oem motor at lock position (my drivers side) and then measure the current draw through the A1 motor at the locked position (new pass side). I then can confirm if they are drawing different current amounts. If they are, with the current draws on each side know, I can calculate the resistor needed on the passenger side to get the currents to match at the locked position. Sounds reasonable enough .
> 
> -e


ok, I took current measurements and measured the resistance and it turns out the A1 motor has less resistance (1.1ohms compared to 2 ohms for the oem motor) and draws more current (about 10A!) when at full lock. I tried messing around with resistors in series (to add resistance and make it look more like the OEM motor) and nothing seemed to do it. So, I'm not sure how the WCM tell's when the window is bottomed out...

I might just put a relay in there and skip the WCM all together...


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

is there anything i can do about the seat tilt lever only pulling on one side? the side opposite the level doesnt lift so i have to do it by hand..

ive heard about ripping open the leather but that seems like overkill for me right now


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## dannyace (Nov 9, 2000)

So recently, my radio, sunroof, wing, horn, console gauges stopped working. All were working fine, then one day they crapped out. Can't confirm they all stopped the same day but it feels like it. I pulled fuses and checked for parasitic draw too, but couldn't find much. Thoughts?


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## XenoLlama (Sep 23, 2002)

Turn signal question. Is the bulb holder/pigtail the same for G60 and SLC turn signals, or is it a different part?

Basically, if I get my hands on G60 turn signal pigtails will they clip into the back of my SLC turns or do I need the correct SLC piece?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

XenoLlama said:


> Turn signal question. Is the bulb holder/pigtail the same for G60 and SLC turn signals, or is it a different part?
> 
> Basically, if I get my hands on G60 turn signal pigtails will they clip into the back of my SLC turns or do I need the correct SLC piece?


 G60 >>50-M-035 000
SLC 50-N-000 001>>

You can put an SLC bulb holder on the end of the wiring pigtail (same for both). You need 6K0 953 123 B.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

dannyace said:


> So recently, my radio, sunroof, wing, horn, console gauges stopped working. All were working fine, then one day they crapped out. Can't confirm they all stopped the same day but it feels like it. I pulled fuses and checked for parasitic draw too, but couldn't find much. Thoughts?


The sunroof, rear spoiler, and gauges all share the same fuse (S16). 
The radio and gauges share the same ground (80). 
Are you blowing fuse 16?
Although the radio and gauges are fused differently, they both utilize Q connector at the fusebox for power. 
The horn is so isolated from those other components, different circuit, track, fuse, ground, fusebox connector; it's preposterous that's related. 
If its not blowing 16, are you getting power to it?


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## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

Dumb question:

I just put my bumper back in and when I went to connect up the wires to the driver's side running light I found that the connector to feed the running light near the battery is too short and would never reach the running light. Is there an extension cable that runs from the wire loom near the battery to the running light? Just curious.

-e


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## dannyace (Nov 9, 2000)

mateok said:


> The sunroof, rear spoiler, and gauges all share the same fuse (S16).
> The radio and gauges share the same ground (80).
> Are you blowing fuse 16?
> Although the radio and gauges are fused differently, they both utilize Q connector at the fusebox for power.
> ...


Great feedback! Will test out your advice and report back. Thanks :thumbup:


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

jewnersey said:


> is there anything i can do about the seat tilt lever only pulling on one side? the side opposite the level doesnt lift so i have to do it by hand..
> 
> ive heard about ripping open the leather but that seems like overkill for me right now


Well you can either fix it properly by undoing the leather and running a new wire... or you can just make a shorter piece of wire to that side so you can pull two lines to flip your seat up.
But before you do that... just check to see if the line just disconnected and can be reconnected to the metal rocker on the seat base.


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

Can somebody please tell me the correct length serp. belt I need when using a 58mm pulley with A/C. Thanks in advance!!! :thumbup::beer::beer:

David


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## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

krazy4dubz said:


> Can somebody please tell me the correct length serp. belt I need when using a 58mm pulley with A/C. Thanks in advance!!! :thumbup::beer::beer:
> 
> David


Google search says someone use a wells 680 but who knows if they have ac or not.
You have the automatic tensioner so just measure the length using string or something and then get that size and one above and one below. Return the ones that don't fit best.


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## XenoLlama (Sep 23, 2002)

Another silly question, but that's the point of this thread!

Part interchange: '95 mk3 VR fans. Will they fit an SLC fan shroud? I know the shrouds themselves are obviously different, but are the fans the same diameter?


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## Rhino74 (May 31, 2010)

XenoLlama said:


> Another silly question, but that's the point of this thread!
> 
> Part interchange: '95 mk3 VR fans. Will they fit an SLC fan shroud? I know the shrouds themselves are obviously different, but are the fans the same diameter?


This may not answer your question fully, but I'm a parts guy at the vw dealer and I checked the two part numbers and they are different. Whether or not that makes them a different diameter who knows lol but I thought this may lead you in the right direction.

:thumbup:


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## XenoLlama (Sep 23, 2002)

Rhino74 said:


> This may not answer your question fully, but I'm a parts guy at the vw dealer and I checked the two part numbers and they are different. Whether or not that makes them a different diameter who knows lol but I thought this may lead you in the right direction.
> 
> :thumbup:


Thanks, I was able to do a ghetto version of that by checking prices on germanautoparts.com between the two parts, so that at least confirms that there is some level of difference, yet in pictures the harness appears the same, so it's just going to come down to diameter...


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## Macks04GLI (Jul 20, 2007)

Macks04GLI said:


> Will do. Have Bentley will research.
> 
> Since I just acquired the car, I think I'll do the plug anyway. I didn't get a maintenance log with the car so I need to establish a baseline. I plan on keeping her in the collection for a while.
> 
> ...


Reviving my request for help. 

Okay...car started doing the same "hesisitation" a few days ago. I went for MONTHS after changing the coolant sensor with no issues. So next I'm going to try this ISV and see if that helps.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

XenoLlama said:


> Another silly question, but that's the point of this thread!
> 
> Part interchange: '95 mk3 VR fans. Will they fit an SLC fan shroud? I know the shrouds themselves are obviously different, but are the fans the same diameter?


Nope. You will need an slc fan, the motor profiles are different.


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## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

if i jb welded this would it hold or would you guys recomend another way to do this?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

vwcorrado1994 said:


> if i jb welded this would it hold or would you guys recomend another way to do this?


doubt it, can you remove the end and take it to a welder, best option


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## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

Sr. Karmann said:


> doubt it, can you remove the end and take it to a welder, best option


i'll try to do that, thanks for your help


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

VWcorrado1994 said:


> i'll try to do that, thanks for your help


No problem :beer:


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

my slc needs oil constantly.. there dont seem to be any leaks, and i dont smell it burning, but i feel like im dumping a quart in too often..
thoughts?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

jewnersey said:


> my slc needs oil constantly.. there dont seem to be any leaks, and i dont smell it burning, but i feel like im dumping a quart in too often..
> thoughts?


Leakdown test, check for bad rings if there are 0 leaks. Bet I could find one.


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## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

how do i drain the fuel from my g60's fuel tank? 
the car has been sitting for more than 2 years


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## Claire22cia (Apr 19, 2013)

I like your idea here. Start a sticky with different areas listed ie.


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## dannyace (Nov 9, 2000)

mateok said:


> The sunroof, rear spoiler, and gauges all share the same fuse (S16).
> The radio and gauges share the same ground (80).
> Are you blowing fuse 16?
> Although the radio and gauges are fused differently, they both utilize Q connector at the fusebox for power.
> ...


 Fuse 16 had in fact blown, replaced it and got back my sunroof, gauges, and wing. I had also accidentally unplugged my horn when installing my ecodes harness, so that is also fixed. 

Head unit also had a blown fuse on the back of the radio, replaced it, it worked for a bit then blew again, what would cause a radio fuse to keep blowing? Bad ground? 

I also scanned it today with a vagcom (93 OBD1 dizzy VR), and its showing no activity on my 02 sensor, bought it new from Impex less than a year ago (Bosch). Any ideas?


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## Almost1 (Nov 3, 2010)

I know this has been covered, but it's hard to search within a thread. Could anyone give me any insight on running a Mk4 head gasket or on what page it was discussed?


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## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

Almost1 said:


> I know this has been covered, but it's hard to search within a thread. Could anyone give me any insight on running a Mk4 head gasket or on what page it was discussed?


 You can google it, its been discussed pretty much everywhere. Its a thinner metal headgasket that will raise your compression from 10:1 to 10.5:1. So probably an extra 10 or so ponies, maybe 15. 

All mk4 vr6's have them with no real changes to the engine internals, so it's a fairly reliable/safe upgrade.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

dannyace said:


> Fuse 16 had in fact blown, replaced it and got back my sunroof, gauges, and wing. I had also accidentally unplugged my horn when installing my ecodes harness, so that is also fixed.
> 
> Head unit also had a blown fuse on the back of the radio, replaced it, it worked for a bit then blew again, what would cause a radio fuse to keep blowing? Bad ground?
> 
> I also scanned it today with a vagcom (93 OBD1 dizzy VR), and its showing no activity on my 02 sensor, bought it new from Impex less than a year ago (Bosch). Any ideas?


 If the fuse on the head unit itself is blowing, that's usually an internal fault in the unit.
A bad ground will either cause the component to stop working or become intermittently spastic. Ground wires generally don't blow fuses because electricity is lazy. It'll always take the path of least resistance back into the ground. That's not going to be a U turn and back though the circuit again. If a ground wire finds a power source, it'll certainly do some damage, though. 

No action with the O2 sensor would tell me the sensor or it's circuit are faulty. Given it's relatively new, I would first check the crusty wires that carry it's signal.


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## Craig610 (Apr 22, 2013)

McNair, I'm trying to fit a civic intake I stole last night onto my G60. **** just won't fit.


----------



## Almost1 (Nov 3, 2010)

One more question. Can the Corrado have the f/r fog lights on without the headlights? Or do you need the parking lights on? Like the Mk3 euro switch? 

I'm glad there is a thread like this. I would get flamed in the Mk3 forums for posting a question like this...


----------



## redcorradog60 (Aug 17, 2002)

Do I need bigger injectors for a stage 4 g60


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

rad fan question. My old rad fan died on me (the plug on the fan fried) so I installed 2 spal fans on the rad without a shroud. Fans worked and were hardwired with diodes inline - save for the fact that the car ran hotter with the spal fans (no shroud so air would move around the radiator rather than through it). Came across a cheap slc rad fan and installed it and a new plug (had to cut the previous plug cut off to accommodate the wiring for the spal fans) 

Removed working inline diodes and spliced in a new stock plug for the stock fans. Ran the car to temp but the fans never kicked in. turned on AC and rad fans did not spin on. Jumped the plug on the thermo switch and fans did not turn on but FCM clicked. Then ran direct 12v from battery to the terminal that has the green/red wire on it and grounded out the terminal that gets the solid red wire on it, and fans started spinning. checked continuity on my spliced wires and everything checks out... 

I did notice that the 20a fuse on the FCM will blow when I remove the key, and that the 30a fuse in the cabin (for rad fan) will blow when temp reaches 190c


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

valet said:


> rad fan question. My old rad fan died on me (the plug on the fan fried) so I installed 2 spal fans on the rad without a shroud. Fans worked and were hardwired with diodes inline - save for the fact that the car ran hotter with the spal fans (no shroud so air would move around the radiator rather than through it). Came across a cheap slc rad fan and installed it and a new plug (had to cut the previous plug cut off to accommodate the wiring for the spal fans)
> 
> Removed working inline diodes and spliced in a new stock plug for the stock fans. Ran the car to temp but the fans never kicked in. turned on AC and rad fans did not spin on. Jumped the plug on the thermo switch and fans did not turn on but FCM clicked. Then ran direct 12v from battery to the terminal that has the green/red wire on it and grounded out the terminal that gets the solid red wire on it, and fans started spinning. checked continuity on my spliced wires and everything checks out...
> 
> I did notice that the 20a fuse on the FCM will blow when I remove the key, and that the 30a fuse in the cabin (for rad fan) will blow when temp reaches 190c


 
Power the fan directly to check all 3 speeds work. If yes, the harness has resistance in it somewhere. You will have to test light and pin out the fan harness. 

If all else fails, cut up the spare slc fan shroud to fit the spals.


----------



## Almost1 (Nov 3, 2010)

Almost1 said:


> One more question. Can the Corrado have the f/r fog lights on without the headlights? Or do you need the parking lights on? Like the Mk3 euro switch?


 Also, are the parking lights supposed to be on with the headlights? I'm away from the car for a few months or I'd check myself.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Almost1 said:


> Also, are the parking lights supposed to be on with the headlights? I'm away from the car for a few months or I'd check myself.


 Um......Re read that question to yourself. lol If the HEADLIGHTS ARE ON, wouldn't you think the park lights that come on before the headlights, would be on? 



Almost1 said:


> One more question. Can the Corrado have the f/r fog lights on without the headlights? Or do you need the parking lights on? Like the Mk3 euro switch?
> 
> I'm glad there is a thread like this. I would get flamed in the Mk3 forums for posting a question like this...


 You aren't fully in the clear here.....so slow your roll.......and the answer to this last question: 
With Parking Lights yes, without any lights NO. Modifying of the wiring required to make them turn on with parking lights and not turn off with High Beams. 

If running to a separate switched power, sure you can make them come on whenever. 



redcorradog60 said:


> Do I need bigger injectors for a stage 4 g60


 Bigger than what? Stock? Yeah.......would also help if you told us wtf you currently have.


----------



## redcorradog60 (Aug 17, 2002)

Yeah I have stock ones now ! What would be ideal for a stage 4


----------



## Almost1 (Nov 3, 2010)

DUBZAK said:


> You aren't fully in the clear here.....so slow your roll.......and the answer to this last question:
> With Parking Lights yes, without any lights NO. Modifying of the wiring required to make them turn on with parking lights and not turn off with High Beams.
> 
> If running to a separate switched power, sure you can make them come on whenever.


 Thanks. Like I said I am away from my car and I was just trying to see if it was like the euro switch, which it is.


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

DUBZAK said:


> Power the fan directly to check all 3 speeds work. If yes, the harness has resistance in it somewhere. You will have to test light and pin out the fan harness.
> 
> If all else fails, cut up the spare slc fan shroud to fit the spals.


 
went back to the aftermarket fans (and added a shroud) temp still climbs to one line below 230. How long is the fan supposed to run once temps hit 190c? On my car, the fans don't turn on until 190, they run for 10-15 secs and then shut off. From there they periodically run from time to time, but only for a few seconds and then shut off. I really don't hear them much unless I've parked the car and the afterrun is going


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Anywhere I can buy the running headlight cable harnesses? (From the actual headlights to the main harness cable input).:thumbup:


----------



## IMWALKIN (Mar 28, 2002)

*g60 ground question*

my g60 was very very poorly this week...black smoke and chugging, it would just about move... I figured because it happens all of a sudden and or it resets itself when I turn the car off and back on it must be electrical...anyway checked all my connection, blue temp/ 02 etc..and nothing..same prob.. I found one ground wire that ran directly from the battery to the throttle body switches/ fuel pressure/temp sensors... after playing with that the car runs perfect.. my question is about the proper ground placement for all these and can they all run to the same ground or will it interfere ....I guess the faulty ground was messing with my fuel pressure or throttle switch?? anyway thank you for the input...


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

IMWALKIN said:


> I found one ground wire that ran directly from the battery to the throttle body switches/ fuel pressure/temp sensors...


 One is the ground for the ECU (pin 13). The other goes to the radiator fan. 
It sounds like some of the ECU sensor grounds have been relocated.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

valet said:


> went back to the aftermarket fans (and added a shroud) temp still climbs to one line below 230. How long is the fan supposed to run once temps hit 190c? On my car, the fans don't turn on until 190, they run for 10-15 secs and then shut off. From there they periodically run from time to time, but only for a few seconds and then shut off. I really don't hear them much unless I've parked the car and the afterrun is going


 Did you properly burp the system of air? Make sure there are 0 leaks in the system, and it sounds like a thermostat, or head gasket which would cause this. Check the expansion tank cap too.....cheap. 

IS the temp sensor on the thermostat housing for the gauge new? Accurate?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

redcorradog60 said:


> Yeah I have stock ones now ! What would be ideal for a stage 4


 I typed "stg 4 g60" into google and found that answer.


----------



## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

both of my g60's doors are scraping against the inside of the fender what can i do about it?


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

VWcorrado1994 said:


> both of my g60's doors are scraping against the inside of the fender what can i do about it?


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

DUBZAK said:


> Did you properly burp the system of air? Make sure there are 0 leaks in the system, and it sounds like a thermostat, or head gasket which would cause this. Check the expansion tank cap too.....cheap.
> 
> IS the temp sensor on the thermostat housing for the gauge new? Accurate?[/QUOTE
> 
> ...


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

valet said:


> DUBZAK said:
> 
> 
> > Did you properly burp the system of air? Make sure there are 0 leaks in the system, and it sounds like a thermostat, or head gasket which would cause this. Check the expansion tank cap too.....cheap.
> ...


 Fan switch on the radiator or Fan Control Module then would be where I would check next. The fan switch may still power it but it seems that they are coming on too late, and not staying on. 

180 Degree Fan Switch or the optional cooler ones? 

Getting somewhere.......I think. lol


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

The fan switch that is in there now is a black one. Are the low temps gray or can you not tell based on color? I shoulda pulled the part number when I had the thing apart on tuesday


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> Anywhere I can buy the running headlight cable harnesses? (From the actual headlights to the main harness cable input).:thumbup:


 Are you looking for the guts inside the Euro spec headlights? Try ARZ / EPP









*E-code Inside Headlight Wiring Harness - fits European Specification VW Corrado's*


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Thanks for replying to me.

I'm looking for these.


----------



## denzil_wasson (Jun 3, 2009)

*Part # request - wire harness clip*

Did search, can't find on vag cat either. Sorry if the pic is big/bad. 

93 SLC VR6 - has a couple of these - this one holds the o2 sensor wire onto the heater hose keeping it from the exhaust. I don't see a part number on the clip. Not sure if it is original or OEM. 

Any help with a part number (or a pointer to the OEM clip / wire retainer if this isn't OEM).


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

So the past couple weeks I've been getting increasing squeak in the wheel, that speeds up as the wheel turns (think is passenger side front). Used to stop with brakes, but now continues through out. And also now randomly the abs light pops on till I turn the car off. Doesn't happen every time I drive. These related?


----------



## CTCORRADOKID (Sep 24, 2003)

Late night...so sorry if I am not clear...just getting some thoughts down...but any help is appreciated...see last post in thread.. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-questions..and-PICS!&p=81682267#post81682267


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## AceWaters (Sep 2, 2008)

Just got done cleaning up the rats nest of wiring behind the fuse box. While I was at it I removed the factory alarm and seatbelt harnesses completely. Tried to start but fuel pump is not kicking on. Cranks though.. Should've just left well enough alone! Thoughts? 

*Resolved* - I mistakenly removed the jumper wire from slots 30 & 30B on the fuse box. :thumbup:


----------



## AZMK3GTI (Nov 7, 2012)

Hey everyone I just found out my ECU is bad. When installing the new ECU is it just plug in and go? Or do I need to let a shop with auto computers install it? Thanks


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

AZMK3GTI said:


> Hey everyone I just found out my ECU is bad. When installing the new ECU is it just plug in and go? Or do I need to let a shop with auto computers install it? Thanks


 Yup, just make sure your battery is disconnected


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

I've got one for the experts... 

Early headlight switch vs late: 
I bought a late headlight switch and it fits the early housing (dash). It also seems to function the same... 
Only difference is that the late switch has an extra pin/tab (marked "56D" which the early switch doesn't have and the early plug doesn't have a hole to accomodate this) - what is this for???


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

56D is headlight flasher contact.


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

*wiper*

so my wiper no longer does intermittent. both slow and fast work (up), as does wash (pull), and rear (push), but down does nothing. worked yesterday, doesnt work today.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

mateok said:


> 56D is headlight flasher contact.


 Thanks :beer: 

And what does this exactly do? And is it ok that the early plug doesn't have the slot to incorporate this?


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Thanks :beer:
> 
> And what does this exactly do? And is it ok that the early plug doesn't have the slot to incorporate this?


 That's a good question. Either VW made a mess of it or Bentley did. 

56D isn't listed on any headlight switch. In fact, every model year is the same. 56 is the Din designation for the basic headlight. 56A is headlight with indicator lamp. 

According to the wiring diagram, 56A is listed as high beam left, and right. It's a basic power loop through two different fuses. That's so if one has a problem you can still somewhat see while driving in the dark using the other. 

The headlights are already wired to receive voltage from the switch, via the turn stalk when you pull on it (high beam flash). There's no reference to 56D so, short of a guess, I don't know what that's for.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

mateok said:


> That's a good question. Either VW made a mess of it or Bentley did.
> 
> 56D isn't listed on any headlight switch. In fact, every model year is the same. 56 is the Din designation for the basic headlight. 56A is headlight with indicator lamp.
> 
> ...


 Part of the alarm system???


----------



## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

After driving for an hour or so or a little less if its really hot out, my car has a searching idle. The first 30-60 minutes of driving will be great, rock steady idle around 625. 

But then at one point I'll pull up to a red light or something and it'll just start idling at 1100, then it'll slowly go down to 300 and shake the whole car, then back up to 1100 and 300 and 1100 it'll cycle the rpms like that. Sometimes when its doing that the engine will just cut out when it's on the 300 part of the cycle. Other than the idle I can still drive normally. Any ideas what could be causing it? 

I know I have a vac leak from the intake mani that I'll take care of tomorrow, but I think if the vac leak was the cause it would idle like that constantly. Unless it somehow gets worse when I'm leaking a lot.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Slider388 said:


> After driving for an hour or so or a little less if its really hot out, my car has a searching idle. The first 30-60 minutes of driving will be great, rock steady idle around 625.
> 
> But then at one point I'll pull up to a red light or something and it'll just start idling at 1100, then it'll slowly go down to 300 and shake the whole car, then back up to 1100 and 300 and 1100 it'll cycle the rpms like that. Sometimes when its doing that the engine will just cut out when it's on the 300 part of the cycle. Other than the idle I can still drive normally. Any ideas what could be causing it?
> 
> I know I have a vac leak from the intake mani that I'll take care of tomorrow, but I think if the vac leak was the cause it would idle like that constantly. Unless it somehow gets worse when I'm leaking a lot.


 Fix ANY vac leaks, does weird chit. Also check your ISV, do not unplug it without disconnecting the battery


----------



## Halojunkie222 (Oct 27, 2009)

*MFA's oil temp*

Hey Guys, 
92 corrado SLC. 

Where does the MFA get the oil temp for the digital readout? 
I'm bypassing the OEM fan controller and fans, and replacing with a standalone temp-probe controlled relay to control the 2 slim-line electric fans. If i don't have the fan control module, fan switch and the cannon plug for the OEM fans will the MFA still receive its temperature reading? 

 
and 
 

Thanks in advance!


----------



## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

mateok said:


> That's a good question. Either VW made a mess of it or Bentley did.
> 
> 56D isn't listed on any headlight switch. In fact, every model year is the same. 56 is the Din designation for the basic headlight. 56A is headlight with indicator lamp.
> 
> ...


 Cheers :beer:


----------



## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

Halojunkie222 said:


> Hey Guys,
> 92 corrado SLC.
> 
> Where does the MFA get the oil temp for the digital readout?
> I'm bypassing the OEM fan controller and fans, and replacing with a standalone temp-probe controlled relay to control the 2 slim-line electric fans. If i don't have the fan control module, fan switch and the cannon plug for the OEM fans will the MFA still receive its temperature reading?


 MFA gets oil temp from a little temp sender that screws into the top of the oil filter housing beside the two high/low oil pressure warning switches. It's a green wire. 
But its independent from the cooling system, so you could tear all cooling system electronics and you'll still get the oil temp reading.


----------



## Halojunkie222 (Oct 27, 2009)

Slider388 said:


> MFA gets oil temp from a little temp sender that screws into the top of the oil filter housing beside the two high/low oil pressure warning switches. It's a green wire.
> But its independent from the cooling system, so you could tear all cooling system electronics and you'll still get the oil temp reading.


 On a similar note, how about the coolant temp gauge? If the 2 plugs above aren't connected, does the coolant temp gauge still work??


----------



## pileofredparts (Mar 20, 2009)

Halojunkie222 said:


> On a similar note, how about the coolant temp gauge? If the 2 plugs above aren't connected, does the coolant temp gauge still work??


 negative


----------



## Halojunkie222 (Oct 27, 2009)

pileofredparts said:


> negative


 Better question...Is it the FCM that sends that information off? Or is it the cannon plug that powers the fans? 


If i'm reading the bentley correctly, the temp sender for the Coolant Gauge is the 2-pin blue connector on the thermostat housing. meaning if i dont have the FCM, or the Fan cannon plug in, i should still get Coolant temp from that sender correct????


----------



## pileofredparts (Mar 20, 2009)

Halojunkie222 said:


> Better question...Is it the FCM that sends that information off? Or is it the cannon plug that powers the fans?
> 
> 
> If i'm reading the bentley correctly, the temp sender for the Coolant Gauge is the 2-pin blue connector on the thermostat housing. meaning if i dont have the FCM, or the Fan cannon plug in, i should still get Coolant temp from that sender correct????


 blue connector is for ECU coolant temp 

brown one on VR should be for cluster


----------



## Halojunkie222 (Oct 27, 2009)

pileofredparts said:


> blue connector is for ECU coolant temp
> 
> brown one on VR should be for cluster


 Awesome, thats what i needed to know! Thanks!!! 

Appreciate the help. :beer:


----------



## V4310W (Nov 18, 2011)

Howdy y'all. 1993 Corrado with distributor motor. I am having some hesitation/bucking issues, usually during acceleration. It was running fine until a few ago I hit a major pothole and I think something somewhere failed. I have replaced coolant temp sensor, fuel pump relay, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter and cleaned both the maf and isv. Vacuum lines are all about a year old. My next guess is the fuel pump and will test it later today once the day starts to cool down. My question is: is there anything I should be looking at? Something I could have overlooked? I just want to be sure I have checked everything and an outside opinion helps. Thanks


----------



## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

V4310W said:


> Howdy y'all. 1993 Corrado with distributor motor. I am having some hesitation/bucking issues, usually during acceleration. It was running fine until a few ago I hit a major pothole and I think something somewhere failed. I have replaced coolant temp sensor, fuel pump relay, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter and cleaned both the maf and isv. Vacuum lines are all about a year old. My next guess is the fuel pump and will test it later today once the day starts to cool down. My question is: is there anything I should be looking at? Something I could have overlooked? I just want to be sure I have checked everything and an outside opinion helps. Thanks


 What about the ignition system? Mainly wires/dizzy/ dizzy hall sender. Everytime I've had bucking it was due to the ignition. Check for blink codes and see if you get anything.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

If bucking, check your little hose below the intake. Small hose that connects the manifold


----------



## V4310W (Nov 18, 2011)

blackslcchild said:


> If bucking, check your little hose below the intake. Small hose that connects the manifold


 I will take a look at the small hoses. 



Slider388 said:


> What about the ignition system? Mainly wires/dizzy/ dizzy hall sender. Everytime I've had bucking it was due to the ignition. Check for blink codes and see if you get anything.


 Distributor,cap, rotor and wires are all new. I did have to repair some wires that go to the hall sender, as well as some other wires related to intake/ignition. I will check that the repairs are still good.


----------



## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

*Boost too low?*

Hey guys, 

With a couple hundred miles under the belt of my rebuilt 90 G60 (new vac lines throughout, rebuilt SC, head and block, new boost tubes), I've started to open it up some in 3rd/4th and not seeing much more than 6 psi boost on my VDO boost gauge. I'd be very surprised if I have any leaks so I was wondering if this should be surprising. Seems like factory specs shows up to 9 psi. I'm using factory pulley with original plumbing (no ISV delete, etc). 

Sounds like a leak somewhere? BBM rebuilt the SC and thought it looked great. 

****UPDATE**** 
So, I wasn't pushing the car hard enough, near redline I was popping over 8 and higher. 

Now the question is do I install that FPR, 68mm pulley, ISV delete, and BBM stage 3 chip I have sitting in the garage?  


-e


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

is there a good write-up for replacing front brake pads (93 SLC)? Just got my new pads in but, want to make sure i know wtf i'm doing before i dive into the process:beer: 

this? (up to just pads) 
http://wiki.the-corrado.net/front_brakes_removal_and_refitting_guide.html


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

jewnersey said:


> is there a good write-up for replacing front brake pads (93 SLC)? Just got my new pads in but, want to make sure i know wtf i'm doing before i dive into the process:beer:
> 
> this? (up to just pads)
> http://wiki.the-corrado.net/front_brakes_removal_and_refitting_guide.html


 That's a good write up. I might add installing new guide pin boots and grease. I figure as long as you're in there...


----------



## yip (Jul 14, 2003)

TheRealEddie said:


> Now the question is do I install that FPR, 68mm pulley, ISV delete, and BBM stage 3 chip I have sitting in the garage?
> 
> 
> -e


 You need to skip the stage 3 and go straight to stage 4 with the 268 cam. Major noticeable difference for not much more investment. I'd even loan you a stage 4 chip and cam to compare if your interested. If you even want to go a step further I'd loan you a set of 30lb injectors and a stage 5 chip and you could run a 65mm or 62mm pulley.


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

*roof rack help*

NVM I AM AN IDIOT

So i got all the thule stuff for the roof rack setup (400xt foot pack, #94 fit kit, and 50" load bars)

but i cannot get the feet to tighten down. I just noticed that the PO glued the rain gutters down (see pic), so is this affecting how the rack feet grip?

basically whats happening is:
i line up the foot at the arrows, start tightening it down, the foot slides towards the gutter , but never becomes tight. it eventually just slides up on to the gutter plastic???


----------



## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

what kind of engine oil is recomended to be used in the corrado g60?


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

VWcorrado1994 said:


> what kind of engine oil is recomended to be used in the corrado g60?


----------



## ml1986 (Apr 27, 2012)

Where can I get a oil filter for a G60?


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

ml1986 said:


> Where can I get a oil filter for a G60?


any local auto parts store, even wal-mart...


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

need window help:::

if i close the door to hard, the balls fall out of the socket and the window gets all messed up, meaning i have to take the door panel off and go back in to reset the ball.. now, i have tried to shove that thing into the socket, so that the ball is more inside , but it doesnt go in and i dont want to smash it in there if its not supposed to.. anybody have any tricks?


----------



## redcorradog60 (Aug 17, 2002)

Where is the best place to get a new Ebrake cable for my g60


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

jewnersey said:


> need window help:::
> 
> if i close the door to hard, the balls fall out of the socket and the window gets all messed up, meaning i have to take the door panel off and go back in to reset the ball.. now, i have tried to shove that thing into the socket, so that the ball is more inside , but it doesnt go in and i dont want to smash it in there if its not supposed to.. anybody have any tricks?


It looks like the white plastic roller is damaged. You'll need to source a new one.
Edit: or it's not snapped all the way in, can't really tell from the picture.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

mateok said:


> It looks like the white plastic roller is damaged. You'll need to source a new one.
> Edit: or it's not snapped all the way in, can't really tell from the picture.


What it looks like to me too, I think Spoonfed may have been making these, mght wanna check, I believe they are now NLA


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

The white rollers look generally intact to me. But I definitely haven't snapped them in. That takes a while lot of force eh?


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

jewnersey said:


> The white rollers look generally intact to me. But I definitely haven't snapped them in. That takes a while lot of force eh?


Give it the beans! It snaps in or it breaks the plastic roller. Either way you don't have a choice. Unless you want to keep taking your door panel off.


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

mateok said:


> Give it the beans! It snaps in or it breaks the plastic roller. Either way you don't have a choice. Unless you want to keep taking your door panel off.


Good point. I'm going for it. Thanks


Edit: pushed as hard as I could and I think it is in as far is it goes, but still don't think it's gonna hold. I'll look in to buying new rollers


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

*strange symptoms*

So my car wouldn't really start the other day (finally did and have had no problems since).. It would crank over great very spunky, just no fire. Try for ten sec. then let starter cool and repeat about five times. Sixth time it fired on a couple cylinders then died. It then proceeded to get better every attempt until it was starting like normal.

Since then I've driven it a few hundred miles with no problems. Any idea where I should check? Been a while since ignition system has been gone through. Should I replace the entire dizzy, or just cap and rotor plugs and wires?

TIA:beer:

Edit: Also though ignition switch may be a culprit (when isn't it? )


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

LHello again, I recently did all the brushing on my shifter and had to unbolt the 42 draft high flow cat. After I was done I noticed a different tone to my exhaust, it was way quieter than before I did the shifter bushings. Today I tried to run the car a little more than usual and I noticed the car hesitated when I shifted into 2 and I felt and heard a pop right next to my right foot( exactly where the downpipe and cat connect) I did bolt everything nice and tight and I also used the same gasket........what could it be?

SLC 92


----------



## moterhead7 (Oct 12, 2011)

*help please!*

i am going to change the bulb to my battery voltage gauge and im not sure how to access the area. can anyone help me?


----------



## moterhead7 (Oct 12, 2011)

oh and thats a 93 corrado.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

moterhead7 said:


> i am going to change the bulb to my battery voltage gauge and im not sure how to access the area. can anyone help me?


http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8848


----------



## DaddyMassacre (Jul 29, 2010)

OK so i have one question from you wheel whoring corrado owners out there

so im getting a really good deal on some porsche cup 1 wheels 
http://austin.craigslist.org/pts/3768419247.html

now also looking to get a good deal on some 25mm adapters... does anyone who really understands wheel fitment(i dont get it at all!) can tell me how will it sit on a G60 or maybe show me a picture or 2


----------



## redcorradog60 (Aug 17, 2002)

This may be a dumb question but. Here goes is it a bad idea to run stock connecting rods in an engine when I put forged pistons in ? I am running out of cash and the rods are very spendy


----------



## SkybarGTI (Jul 23, 2011)

Daddymassacre:
Check out the wheel thread below this one, there's lots to look at as well as info for suspension types and what clears and what doesn't. Cup wheels have been used many times.

Redcorradog60:
Depends, how much boost? How do you drive the car? What else has been replaced for internals? Stock crank? But to answer the vague question, should be fine as log as there's not a to. Of mileage on them and maintenance has been done regularly, I don't see why you can't use them. I personally wouldn't myself, but then again I'm super anal when it comes to doin things right and not mix matching.


----------



## redcorradog60 (Aug 17, 2002)

It is a stock crank and everything looks really good 90k on motor I am going to stage 4 with a 68mm pulley on the g ladder


----------



## SkybarGTI (Jul 23, 2011)

redcorradog60 said:


> It is a stock crank and everything looks really good 90k on motor I am going to stage 4 with a 68mm pulley on the g ladder


Should be fine then. That's a pretty tame pulley for stage 4, not a ton of boost being thrown in. Go for it.


----------



## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

yip said:


> You need to skip the stage 3 and go straight to stage 4 with the 268 cam. Major noticeable difference for not much more investment. I'd even loan you a stage 4 chip and cam to compare if your interested. If you even want to go a step further I'd loan you a set of 30lb injectors and a stage 5 chip and you could run a 65mm or 62mm pulley.


Dropped in the BBM Stage 3 kit (chip, FPR, 68mm pulley, but without the ISV reroute) and wow! what a difference. 

Glad I'm taking the baby steps approach to allow me to feel the difference these mods make. :thumbup: I could see moving to the cam and stage 4 chip at some point.


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## redcorradog60 (Aug 17, 2002)

I think That's all the boost I will ever run but just in case I probably should replace the rods they are just so expensive


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## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

is it possible to use a racing harness with the stock corrado seats?


----------



## SkybarGTI (Jul 23, 2011)

redcorradog60 said:


> I think That's all the boost I will ever run but just in case I probably should replace the rods they are just so expensive


:thumbup: good in you, may as well while you're doing pistons, no need for arp bolts with "low" boost, save a couple hundo there


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## redcorradog60 (Aug 17, 2002)

If u buy From bbm they come with arp bolts


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

redcorradog60 said:


> I think That's all the boost I will ever run but just in case I probably should replace the rods they are just so expensive


You can only reuse the con rod bolts once. If you plan on measuring after you've installed the new bearings, that will burn your last use. New OE bolts are getting hard to find. ARP one's will require line boring.


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## TxJet98 (Jun 29, 2012)

VWcorrado1994 said:


> is it possible to use a racing harness with the stock corrado seats?


I don't know about possible, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you have a harness bar at shoulder level behind the seats.

If you get in a wreck and your shoulder belts are anchored on the back seat floor, you are likely going to get severe spinal compression. My guess is that you do not have a harness bar, am i right?


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## hi_racing (Jul 6, 2004)

VWcorrado1994 said:


> is it possible to use a racing harness with the stock corrado seats?


Maverick region Porsche club used to approve my Schroth 4-points with stock seats for the time trials and autocrosses. If you're doing more than that you should try to get racing seats, 5-points and a cage with harness attachment points/bars. (all of this is just my opinion)

The best source to answer your question is the rulebook of whatever group you're going racing with. It'll be spelled out in the safety section. If they don't have a safety section, go race with someone else. 

Good luck and have fun! Track is a great place for a Corrado.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

I bought a used VSS for my Corrado, but the part # on it reads 1H0919149 which I'm guessing is a MK3 part #....
Seller/owner said that it was removed from an MK2 Golf which had a Corrado engine and g-box

(A fellow Vortexer informed me that the Corrado VSS part # is 191919149D)

One I got looks like this:










I want to know if this is compatible with a Corrado or not?


Also, while searching I also found a different style VSS which is claimed to be a genuine Corrado part (191919149A):









Appreciate all the help :beer:


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## yip (Jul 14, 2003)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Also, while searching I also found a different style VSS which is claimed to be a genuine Corrado part (191919149A):
> 
> 
> 
> ...



These are the correct parts. I believe I have both the sensor and gear stored somewhere and I have no intention of using them since I prefer the mechanical cluster. If I can find them you can have them if your interested.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

yip said:


> These are the correct parts. I believe I have both the sensor and gear stored somewhere and I have no intention of using them since I prefer the mechanical cluster. If I can find them you can have them if your interested.


I am interested!!! Could you PM me if/when you find them?


Edit:
Just noticed: if you see the first pic I posted of the MK3 VSS there's a watermark which reads "yiparts" - its amazing that a "yip" replied, lol


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## yip (Jul 14, 2003)

RedYellowWhite said:


> I am interested!!! Could you PM me if/when you find them?
> 
> 
> Edit:
> Just noticed: if you see the first pic I posted of the MK3 VSS there's a watermark which reads "yiparts" - its amazing that a "yip" replied, lol


Ahahha.....

All you really need is the sensor that screws onto the gear since the gear is the same for the mechanical and digital cluster. 

I probably won't get to storage for a few days but I'll definently look for it when I do.


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## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

TxJet98 said:


> I don't know about possible, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you have a harness bar at shoulder level behind the seats.
> 
> If you get in a wreck and your shoulder belts are anchored on the back seat floor, you are likely going to get severe spinal compression. My guess is that you do not have a harness bar, am i right?


yes your right 
i have the automatic seatbelt track and motor in my car but not belts, so i was looking for an alternative, i guess ill just use my parts cars regular seat belts


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

RedYellowWhite said:


> Also, while searching I also found a different style VSS which is claimed to be a genuine Corrado part (191919149A):
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nope, the connection looks totally different.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Knock sensor ll on a SLC vr6 is on the rear of the block above the motor mount? Brown right?


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

yip said:


> Ahahha.....







yip said:


> All you really need is the sensor that screws onto the gear since the gear is the same for the mechanical and digital cluster.


:thumbup: Did not knew that, but yeah from what I remember that sensor looks a lot like what my '90 Corrado (mech. cluster) has...



yip said:


> I probably won't get to storage for a few days but I'll definently look for it when I do.


NP :thumbup:




blackslcchild said:


> Nope, the connection looks totally different.


I think I understand what you're saying: that the speedo gear is different to what a Corrado speedo gear looks like and _I think_ you're right - but the part # provided by the seller is the correct for the Corrado VSS


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I'm sorry man, it does look like the part. I just recently took it out to clean it since my corrado was sending me a code 1231 for the speed sender. It totally looked different from what is pictured previously above but now I see that it might be the exact same thing?








(Not mine) but I did use it as a reference. Where did you get the part from?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

RedYellowWhite said:


> I bought a used VSS for my Corrado, but the part # on it reads 1H0919149 which I'm guessing is a MK3 part #....
> Seller/owner said that it was removed from an MK2 Golf which had a Corrado engine and g-box
> 
> (A fellow Vortexer informed me that the Corrado VSS part # is 191919149D)


IH0919149 is not in the stamm. The other one is.


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## Halojunkie222 (Oct 27, 2009)

*Coolant Expansion Tank*

Hey Guys, 
Coolant expansion tank, top plastic piece that the little hose connects to is broken on the rado. Am i able to replace the existing tank with a tank for a G60 since its half the cost as the vr6 one? 

Also, until i get said tank...am i able to just cap the small hose off and drive it? 

Thanks


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

blackslcchild said:


> I'm sorry man, it does look like the part. I just recently took it out to clean it since my corrado was sending me a code 1231 for the speed sender. It totally looked different from what is pictured previously above but now I see that it might be the exact same thing?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Got it from ebay...




mateok said:


> IH0919149 is not in the stamm. The other one is.



Sh!t  Looks like I was sold the wrong part afterall...


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## pileofredparts (Mar 20, 2009)

Halojunkie222 said:


> Hey Guys,
> Coolant expansion tank, top plastic piece that the little hose connects to is broken on the rado. Am i able to replace the existing tank with a tank for a G60 since its half the cost as the vr6 one?
> 
> Also, until i get said tank...am i able to just cap the small hose off and drive it?
> ...


yes a g60 tank will work, the only difference is it is smaller in volume.


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## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

Hey fellas.
I changed my rear pads last year. The pads were mintex red. I slathered um up with the glorious red brake goop and let it dry before I put them in. 

However. This season I've noticed my rear passenger side pads rattling around in the carrier. I can hear it when going over bumps. 

Any suggestions? 

Any Corrado anti rattle clips or shims out there???

-TLJ


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## pileofredparts (Mar 20, 2009)

TheLateJetta said:


> Hey fellas.
> I changed my rear pads last year. The pads were mintex red. I slathered um up with the glorious red brake goop and let it dry before I put them in.
> 
> However. This season I've noticed my rear passenger side pads rattling around in the carrier. I can hear it when going over bumps.
> ...


are the springs contacting the caliper? the V shaped ones?
they should give it preload so it doesnt rattle


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Both will work. I remember someone stating that one of them was harder to reconnect than the other but don't know who that was. One is for the slushbox and the other is for the manual



RedYellowWhite said:


> I bought a used VSS for my Corrado, but the part # on it reads 1H0919149 which I'm guessing is a MK3 part #....
> Seller/owner said that it was removed from an MK2 Golf which had a Corrado engine and g-box
> 
> (A fellow Vortexer informed me that the Corrado VSS part # is 191919149D)
> ...





petethepug said:


> More part #'s and reference for the Speedo VSS
> 
> http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/show...y_driveline=0&ukey_trimlevel=0&modelYear=1992


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## edocdog (Sep 17, 2010)

TheLateJetta said:


> Hey fellas.
> I changed my rear pads last year. The pads were mintex red. I slathered um up with the glorious red brake goop and let it dry before I put them in.
> 
> However. This season I've noticed my rear passenger side pads rattling around in the carrier. I can hear it when going over bumps.
> ...


Springs on the pad, also check the bolts that secure the calipers to the carrier are torqued to spec. Iirc 22lbs?

This happened to my old C and thought it was the pads.


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## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

can i use this in my 1990 corrado? https://www.google.ca/search?hl=en&...nt%2Fproduct_list%3Fselect_region%3D1;500;500


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## TheLateJetta (Apr 17, 2008)

VWcorrado1994 said:


> can i use this in my 1990 corrado? ]


No, better to flush your system *completely* with water. 
Then fill it with a 50/50 mix of distilled water and G12 coolant available from your dealer with part number :G013A8J1G


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## edocdog (Sep 17, 2010)

VWcorrado1994 said:


> can i use this in my 1990 corrado? https://www.google.ca/search?hl=en&...nt%2Fproduct_list%3Fselect_region%3D1;500;500


Yes you can use it. If you use G12 then your not suppose to go to anything else one G12 is used.


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## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

i just rebuilt my engine so there isnt any coolant in there


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

VWcorrado1994 said:


> i just rebuilt my engine so there isnt any coolant in there


G12 FTW :thumbup::thumbup:


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## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

how can i tell if its g12?
does it say that on the back of the jug of coolant?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

VWcorrado1994 said:


> how can i tell if its g12?
> does it say that on the back of the jug of coolant?


it's pink, g12 plus is a real dark green/blue, get g12 from the dealer


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

G11 is blue or can be green. (Don't use this as people have stated it eats you're engine) 

G12 is all pink( liquid) it should say petosin sf white bottle with red sticker.


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## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

thanks for all your help, i hope i'm gonna start my car for the first time tommorow


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## Rubberband (Sep 28, 2006)

they phased out the G12 with the new G13.
same color as the G12 and is backwards compatable


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

You should record it and post. Hope everything comes out smoothly:thumbup::beer:


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## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

looking for some info on the vehicle speed sensor wiring. i installed vems and im having trouble getting my speedo to work. along with the tach and coolant temp. From the VSS I have pin 1 as 12v key on power, pin 2 going to g1/11 and pin 3 going to ground. I got nothing at the speedo. Am I missing something here? i know a few of the VSS related wires with blue connectors are all at one junction on the fuse box all of which are connected. there are three to be exact. All have either blue and white or white and blue wires. Any help is appreciated.


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## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

So two weeks ago my driver door stopped arming the alarm and central locking. I didn't have a chance to check it and just used the pass. side to lock/unlock the car. Then yesterday it all stopped working, neither the trunk nor the doors will actuate the central locking or arm the alarm.

Could the driver door keep the whole system from working? If I get an aftermarket remote control system would that be able to actuate the locks and arm the alarm regardless of the condition of the door switches?


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## hi_racing (Jul 6, 2004)

Slider388 said:


> So two weeks ago my driver door stopped arming the alarm and central locking. I didn't have a chance to check it and just used the pass. side to lock/unlock the car. Then yesterday it all stopped working, neither the trunk nor the doors will actuate the central locking or arm the alarm.
> 
> Could the driver door keep the whole system from working? If I get an aftermarket remote control system would that be able to actuate the locks and arm the alarm regardless of the condition of the door switches?


The C uses an air pump and hoses to open/close the locks. If it's not working you'll have to also install solenoids to replace the air pump and hoses. My 2¢ is to start by checking the switch in the driver's door. PM me if you don't have a bentley and need the color codes for the wires.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Hello guys, so today I go outside and find this liquid underneath my car and I thought it was water. I go on and touch it and it feels like oil so I go and check the engine oil dipstick and the oil is totally different color. I go underneath the to see where its coming from but I can't and see some tanish color residue on my oil pan next to the pulleys it keeps leaking but I have no idea what this liquid is? Compressor?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

blackslcchild said:


> Hello guys, so today I go outside and find this liquid underneath my car and I thought it was water. I go on and touch it and it feels like oil so I go and check the engine oil dipstick and the oil is totally different color. I go underneath the to see where its coming from but I can't and see some tanish color residue on my oil pan next to the pulleys it keeps leaking but I have no idea what this liquid is? Compressor?


If it smells bad would be trans fluid


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Sr. Karmann said:


> If it smells bad would be trans fluid


No it doesn't smell bad at all.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

blackslcchild said:


> No it doesn't smell bad at all.


Check your other fluid levels, i.e. PS & Brake


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Check your other fluid levels, i.e. PS & Brake


I'm on it. I'll take some pictures.:thumbup:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

blackslcchild said:


> I'm on it. I'll take some pictures.:thumbup:


Sweet, I've never seen a Corrado PS or Brake fluid reservoir .........:laugh:


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## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

1956dub said:


> So my car wouldn't really start the other day (finally did and have had no problems since).. It would crank over great very spunky, just no fire. Try for ten sec. then let starter cool and repeat about five times. Sixth time it fired on a couple cylinders then died. It then proceeded to get better every attempt until it was starting like normal.
> 
> Since then I've driven it a few hundred miles with no problems. Any idea where I should check? Been a while since ignition system has been gone through. Should I replace the entire dizzy, or just cap and rotor plugs and wires?
> 
> ...


So this has come up again, only this time I cannot get it to start (I even tried wiggling the key while cranking and nothing so I'm thinking against ign. switch.) I'm going to replace the cap rotor plugs and wires since I've not done that yet and the cap looked kinda funky. My question is, which plug should I use. 93 vr6 with 268 cams.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Sweet, I've never seen a Corrado PS or Brake fluid reservoir .........:laugh:


Sorry man, I wasn't quite specific

I already mentioned this to a friend who said it was the water pump.

This, is said picture









P.s I'm still laughing.

Dang:banghead:


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

1956dub said:


> So this has come up again, only this time I cannot get it to start (I even tried wiggling the key while cranking and nothing so I'm thinking against ign. switch.) I'm going to replace the cap rotor plugs and wires since I've not done that yet and the cap looked kinda funky. My question is, which plug should I use. 93 vr6 with 268 cams.


NGk bkr5ekup


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## hi_racing (Jul 6, 2004)

blackslcchild said:


> Hello guys, so today I go outside and find this liquid underneath my car and I thought it was water. I go on and touch it and it feels like oil so I go and check the engine oil dipstick and the oil is totally different color. I go underneath the to see where its coming from but I can't and see some tanish color residue on my oil pan next to the pulleys it keeps leaking but I have no idea what this liquid is? Compressor?


Last time I saw this in a car it was a blown headgasket. Might be coolant+oil. Don't run the engine until you're sure. Water is heavier than oil so it gets picked up by the sump first.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

hi_racing said:


> Last time I saw this in a car it was a blown headgasket. Might be coolant+oil. Don't run the engine until you're sure. Water is heavier than oil so it gets picked up by the sump first.


 I hope not!:banghead:
How would I tell?











I just went outside to see the leak and it only leaks when the car is running. Its super clear but it has an oil like feel. I do run g12 on my car and that's pink and thickish. Around the head gasket I don't see any stains or leaks. The leak is coming from the pulleys area.


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## ratatat (Nov 28, 2008)

Hey all. My 90 G60 will only run for about 5 minutes then shuts off. It idles at 1100 rpms, then slowly dwindles as time passes until its too weak to continue. I have recently changed timing belt, and ignition switch. The switch had solved my initial non running issue, but now I am stumped on this. Looking for some ideas, thank you all.


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Regarding a 91 G60, are there any differences in the starters between the auto and manual? I've looked them up online. And some suppliers use the same Bosch code for both: Bosch Starter Part Number: 7333-07100433, while others use different ones. Bosch Starter Part Number: 7333-07100236 for Manual and the previous one for auto.


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## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

im having some trouble starting my corrado the startor is turning but it doesnt want to start the car and it seems like it has almost no power, i tried conecting the battery from 2 other cars and it still seems to be very weak.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

cyberstasi said:


> Regarding a 91 G60, are there any differences in the starters between the auto and manual? I've looked them up online. And some suppliers use the same Bosch code for both: Bosch Starter Part Number: 7333-07100433, while others use different ones. Bosch Starter Part Number: 7333-07100236 for Manual and the previous one for auto.


From experience, the auto starter will not work in a manual transmission. The extra mounting hole isn't a problem. The problem is the the pinion gear assembly. Look at the pictures of them at GAP, you'll see the problem. 
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/EngineElectrical/197


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

ratatat said:


> Hey all. My 90 G60 will only run for about 5 minutes then shuts off. It idles at 1100 rpms, then slowly dwindles as time passes until its too weak to continue. I have recently changed timing belt, and ignition switch. The switch had solved my initial non running issue, but now I am stumped on this. Looking for some ideas, thank you all.


Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. A weak fuel pump will poop out after it heats up. Check the alternator output. Like the fuel pump, a tired one will call it a day when it heats up.


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

mateok said:


> From experience, the auto starter will not work in a manual transmission. The extra mounting hole isn't a problem. The problem is the the pinion gear assembly. Look at the pictures of them at GAP, you'll see the problem.
> http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/EngineElectrical/197


Thanks for the info. I try not to go by pictures since so many places use generic pictures for things. Thats why I was comparing the part numbers on sites. When some were the same and some were different, I wasn't sure who was right and who was wrong.


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

The 1.8t forum doesn't seem to be helping. Can I use a g60 o2 sensor with my aeb engine swap? Both are narrow band.


----------



## ratatat (Nov 28, 2008)

Thank you mateok, will check that out this weekend.


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

Couple issues/questions. 

1. So my brake fluid reservoir had been overfilled.. I syringed it down to the max line drive it for a couple weeks and now again (without putting anything in) is back up high again.. Also my brakes are mushy. Magic auto filling brake fluid? The Germans outdid themselves. 

2. My Abs light is pretty much always on now. I think it's connector related because I noticed initially that it would pop on and stay on if I hit a bump, dislodging the shoddy connection. I checked everything immediately surrounding the brake system under the hood (looked okay) , but is there anywhere else?

3. My 93 runs crazy rich. Anything I can do to even things out.


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

jewnersey said:


> 2. My Abs light is pretty much always on now. I think it's connector related because I noticed initially that it would pop on and stay on if I hit a bump, dislodging the shoddy connection. I checked everything immediately surrounding the brake system under the hood (looked okay) , but is there anywhere else?


I had that happen on a 91 G60 with ABS... turned out it was a speed sensor connection. Dont know if thats the reason yours is acting up or not.
But considering the problem you're having with #1... its possible its related to that.
If your brakes are mushy... Bleed the living daylights out of them... just make sure to keep putting new fluid in your res so you dont empty it and create another air bubble.

Might want to hold off on doing that though, until one of the guys that knows more about ABS chimes in. Those both might be symptoms of a faulty abs unit. I dont know due to limited contact with Rados with ABS.


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## bunkkaws (Feb 7, 2008)

Gentlemen,

Does anyone know the bolt sizes of the passenger and front motor mount bolts? Tranny would be great too.

The car came with VF Motor mounts and added engine spacers and I found the bolts are too short. I contacted VF but they no longer give out the bolt specs.

Basically I need the pitch and length, so I can add another inch and pick up replacements.

Any input would be awesome!


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

bunkkaws said:


> Gentlemen,
> 
> Does anyone know the bolt sizes of the passenger and front motor mount bolts? Tranny would be great too.
> 
> ...


That's a lot of bolts. 

Front mount:
Top bolt - M10X30
Bottom bolt - M10X32
Two bracket bolts - M10X60X27 - M10X45

Right rear mount:
Top bolt - M10X58 and M8X12 (double stud)
Bracket bolt - M8X20

Transmission mount:
Top bolt - M10X45
Bracket bolt - M8X20


----------



## bunkkaws (Feb 7, 2008)

mateok said:


> That's a lot of bolts.
> 
> Front mount:
> Top bolt - M10X30
> ...



Seriously man, thank you! If I am ever down in GA, I am going to swing by your house and give you a beer, high five and a bear hug, in any order. Now I can get the car back on the road.


----------



## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

Alrighty guys, I have an issue with my 92 slc and I'm at a bit of a loss.

The car runs fine and idles rock steady at 625 usually, but after driving 15ish minutes with the oil temp above 215 (w/ aftermarket oil cooler), the car starts to idle erratically (slow cycle from 1000-300rpm) and then stall out. If I keep it revved at lights so that it doesn't stall out at idle itll go a couple minutes further before it stops accelerating-I can press the pedal as much as I want but the engine will just go down to idle and die out.

The only reason I think it's heat related is because if I jump the fans and let it cool off for 15ish minutes its good to go again, till it gets hot again.

On the highway the oil stays around 195-200 and it never has a problem, I just drove 9 hours on the highway without issues. But I can't do more than 20 minutes in the city on a warm day without it acting up.

The only code it throws is 2231- ISV max exceeded. I'm pretty sure I've gotten rid of the last of the vac leaks so I'm not sure where that's from.

Any ideas on where I should look to start troubleshooting this would be helpful. thanks for reading.

I should note that the EGR has been deleted not too long before it started doing this...not sure if that could contribute to the problem.


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

I have a whole new central locking harness I want to put in. Anybody have advice or some kinda guidance. Really hate everything having to do with this particular circuit...


----------



## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

so i tried to start my g60 after the rebuild and there is some white smoke coming from the intake manifold


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

What should I look at if my car seems to have lost some power? It doesn't accelerate as fast as I would like it to be. Also, whenever the car warms up I try to rev the engine in a fast motion and it bogs down (doesn't die) along with a popping noise on the down pipes?

Very weird, as the car runs great on the freeway and street. Just that issue.:what: thanks guys:thumbup:


----------



## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

Did I break my tachometer needle?


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

skaterhernandez4 said:


> Did I break my tachometer needle?


Unfortunately, yes. If you unscrew the little black nut thingy, you'll see the other half of it. As you can see by the picture I've done the same thing.

I have several spares on hand and just grabbed another after realizing it was broken. I would assume it's junk. You'll need to source another one.


----------



## paulytits (Jun 13, 2007)

are the fog light assembly's NLA?? i remember seeing ecstuning and germanautoparts carrying them, now i notice neither of them have them.

if so, i knew i should have gotten a new set when i had the chance


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## ajhvw93 (Oct 26, 2009)

pair for sale Corrado classifieds


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

Has anybody swapped a o2a from a passat into your G60?? I just did and I'm having problems with the shift tower. The trans I just installed which was from a passat was missing the shift selector lever so I thought I would just swap the shift tower from my old corrado trans. But when I installed it its like everything is super tight and it won't go into reverse... Am I doing something wrong and will the corrado shift tower not work in the passat trans. I figured all 4cyl o2a's were the same. Please help, Thanks in advance!!

David 

This is the part that was missing from the new "passat" transmission.


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

Bump


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## pileofredparts (Mar 20, 2009)

you may need to swap the diamond shaped cap on the bottom of the tranny, depending on the shifter tower those are different. youll need to drain fluid in order to swap


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

Ok cool, I was wondering about that!! Thanks a bunch!!


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

pileofredparts said:


> you may need to swap the diamond shaped cap on the bottom of the tranny, depending on the shifter tower those are different. youll need to drain fluid in order to swap


Hey Bud just wanted to let you know you we're absolutely right!! Kudos to you, my car is back on the road. Thanks again and have a great day!!!

David


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey, This thread is a good Idea. 
So, here is my issue, and yes, I have searched, I kind of just want a second opinion. I have a 90 G60, and now that summer is here, is getting hotter than is should. On the Highway, it is fine. It sits at around 177.5 to 195 or less depending on A/C on or not. In the city though in stop and go traffic, it climbs up to 230 or slightly above. I tested it in my garage, and the low speed on the fan does not turn on at all. The high speed did not either until I replace the thermo switch (which was a mess). I am thinking that it is the low speed fan windings, and I need a new fan. I found another post that mentioned this problem. I did jump it, and I can get both to turn on, but low speed does not ever turn on when the engine is running normally. Any Thoughts or comments? Thanks.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Hey, This thread is a good Idea.
> So, here is my issue, and yes, I have searched, I kind of just want a second opinion. I have a 90 G60, and now that summer is here, is getting hotter than is should. On the Highway, it is fine. It sits at around 177.5 to 195 or less depending on A/C on or not. In the city though in stop and go traffic, it climbs up to 230 or slightly above. I tested it in my garage, and the low speed on the fan does not turn on at all. The high speed did not either until I replace the thermo switch (which was a mess). I am thinking that it is the low speed fan windings, and I need a new fan. I found another post that mentioned this problem. I did jump it, and I can get both to turn on, but low speed does not ever turn on when the engine is running normally. Any Thoughts or comments? Thanks.


Your diagnosis sounds correct, nice work. I've had three fans fail in 23 years of ownership. Low speed windings are always the first to go. 

195 is the operating temp so, your highway temp is good. It's getting hot sitting in traffic because you're missing one complete fan cycle. Very common problem that's commonly misdiagnosed.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Hey, This thread is a good Idea.
> So, here is my issue, and yes, I have searched, I kind of just want a second opinion. I have a 90 G60, and now that summer is here, is getting hotter than is should. On the Highway, it is fine. It sits at around 177.5 to 195 or less depending on A/C on or not. In the city though in stop and go traffic, it climbs up to 230 or slightly above. I tested it in my garage, and the low speed on the fan does not turn on at all. The high speed did not either until I replace the thermo switch (which was a mess). I am thinking that it is the low speed fan windings, and I need a new fan. I found another post that mentioned this problem. I did jump it, and I can get both to turn on, but low speed does not ever turn on when the engine is running normally. Any Thoughts or comments? Thanks.





mateok said:


> Your diagnosis sounds correct, nice work. I've had three fans fail in 23 years of ownership. Low speed windings are always the first to go.
> 
> 195 is the operating temp so, your highway temp is good. It's getting hot sitting in traffic because you're missing one complete fan cycle. Very common problem that's commonly misdiagnosed.


But if you are jumping the low speed and is working means your fan is still good


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## pileofredparts (Mar 20, 2009)

krazy4dubz said:


> Hey Bud just wanted to let you know you we're absolutely right!! Kudos to you, my car is back on the road. Thanks again and have a great day!!!
> 
> David


Been there, done that  :beer::thumbup:


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## Adriank (Apr 29, 2012)

*Strange Squeaking*

Hi guys, I have a 1990 G60 and I am having the following problem:

While under heavy braking, and in gear, I hear a loud squeaking coming from the drivers side front of my vehicle. This sound only shows up in gear, and usually on uneven surfaces. 

I'm thinking perhaps one of the engine mounts? Any other things I should look at?

If it is the engine mounts, how do I tell if they are shot?

I should note that the suspension is H&R sport springs w/ Bilstein shocks. Strut mounts replaced 5k ago, control arm bushings replaced at the same time, brakes are new, ball joints are new.

Thanks!

Adrian


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Sr. Karmann said:


> But if you are jumping the low speed and is working means your fan is still good


I absolutely refused to buy a new fan for that very reason. I could jump low speed all day long but, it never came on by itself. Every other component in the system checked out ok. A new fan solved the problem.


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## DaddyMassacre (Jul 29, 2010)

*braking issues*

so i just replaced my braking master cylinder so i was going to start flusing my fluids out so i jack up the car and get to the passenger rear start the bleeding process, No problem so i tighten the bleeding screw. Went to the other side start the process again when i notice that my brake pedal wasnt going all the way down now, stops about half way down(strange for it didnt do this on the first brake) so i went back to the passenger side loosen the bleeder screw, and what you know my brakes go all the way down again, so i tighten the screw again just to see and brakes stop half way again and this point im lost and really need help 


this is for a 1990 G60 Corrado non ABS


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Are you pulling the rear proportioning valve down before bleeding the rears?


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## DaddyMassacre (Jul 29, 2010)

mateok said:


> Are you pulling the rear proportioning valve down before bleeding the rears?


sry but i got no clue what you mean do you mind sharing some insight in the matter? and what exactly does this valve do?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

DaddyMassacre said:


> sry but i got no clue what you mean do you mind sharing some insight in the matter? and what exactly does this valve do?


It limits flow to rear brakes under load, best to bleed with car on the ground


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## dmanny19892 (May 7, 2013)

diesel.g60 said:


> hello i have a serious problem. after a much needed maintenance my g60 ran strong. but when i got home and accelarated it, it turned off and wont start again :banghead:. we determined there is no spark. so we checked the wiring and no power is reaching the coil so any suggestions are much needed thanks in advance.




i had the same issue. my ecm relay was bad and i chased it around like a dog chasing its tail.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hello, this is regarding my radiator fan I mentioned in an earlier post. I can no longer jump it to get the low speed to turn on. I can make the high speed come on using a test light connected to + terminal on the battery. When I touch it to the low speed pin, however, the light lights up, and nothing happens. With the accessories on but the engine off, flipping the A/C switch turns on the low speed on the fan, immediately. I have been pouring over the wiring diagrams, and I cannot figure out what is causing this, everything appears to be wired correctly. With the A/C switch on, touching the test light to the low speed pin no longer turns on the light. Any idea what is going on. 
I should note, I recently rebuilt this wiring harness, but I followed the wiring diagrams from the Bentley Meticulously. I am stumped. Any insight would be very helpful, and appreciated. Thanks.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Any advise on my questions?


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey Black, I don't have that much experience yet, but have you checked the timing? This sounds sort of like a slightly off timing issue. Or, if your gas mileage is horrible, it could be your O2 sensor. I would start with these things. Post an update of your results.


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## G2Performance (Jun 4, 2007)

blackslcchild said:


> Any advise on my questions?


 What motor? If its a 1.8 SC could be a few things, blue temp sensor will throw your timing back if its bad.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

G2Performance said:


> What motor? If its a 1.8 SC could be a few things, blue temp sensor will throw your timing back if its bad.


 Its a vr6 12v od1. I swapped all the sensors. Its kinda odd since the gas light indicator is disconnected and the gas needle goes down as I accelerate and it goes back up when I relieve the gas pedal ( sometimes). I filled the car up with gas today till it overflowed, the indicator said this.....:thumbdown:


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> Its a vr6 12v od1. I swapped all the sensors. Its kinda odd since the gas light indicator is disconnected and the gas needle goes down as I accelerate and it goes back up when I relieve the gas pedal ( sometimes). I filled the car up with gas today till it overflowed, the indicator said this.....:thumbdown:


 The fuel gauge operation can be checked using VW special tool 1301. I don't expect you'd have that 20 year old tool laying around so, here's how you test it with a multimeter. 

Substituted multimeter Ohms values:
Full tank - 34 to 39
1/4 tank - 116 to 122
Reserve mark - 184 to 263
Empty tank - 284 to 288


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## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

hey i finaly got my g60 to start but once started it turns off after couple seconds. the rpms go to 1000 and then it goes down and the car turns off. but if i press the gas pedal it stays on. does anybody have an idea what the problem is?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

VWcorrado1994 said:


> hey i finaly got my g60 to start but once started it turns off after couple seconds. the rpms go to 1000 and then it goes down and the car turns off. but if i press the gas pedal it stays on. does anybody have an idea what the problem is?


 ISV??


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## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

i cleaned the isv and now it stay on but the rpms slowly go up


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

VWcorrado1994 said:


> i cleaned the isv and now it stay on but the rpms slowly go up


 Sounds like a vacuum leak


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## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

before i made the throtle cable alittle tighter the rpms were going up to 1000 and down to almost 0 then back up and sometimes the car would turn off.


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

Couple things :

If I try to roll down my passenger window after my drivers (or vice versa) it won't work until I hit up on the first window (after its already down) like something is holding that circuit on. 

Also I'm running very rich and think I'm losing some power, but the car (93 slc) starts and idles just fine (occasional rough start, but evens out quickly)


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## vrquickkid (Aug 1, 2012)

*1997 vr6 jetta*

I am a technician at a Chevrolet dealership, so i am not a 'noob' when it comes to diagnosis and repairs. But this is throwing me for a whorl and i cannot seem to figure out the issue. 

I recently did some work on my vr6 jetta and now it has a no crank no start issue. Unless i do a couple things and it will eventually start. But first i will let you know of the work i have done. 

I replaced the flywheel. clutch. transmission mount. front engine mount. rear main seal. slave cylinder. oil pan gasket. valve cover gasket. and upper intake manifold gasket. The reason i did not change all of the engine mounts is because i did not remove the engine, I only removed the transmission from the car. 

I have no idea how i figured out how to start the car but it is time consuming and annoying. I am able to get the car started by unplugging the throttle position sensor for about 5 to 10 minutes. After that i turn the key to the key on engine off position and the coolant afterrun/auxiliary pump will run for about 30 seconds to a minute. Immediately after the pump is done running i turn the key to the crank position and it fires. Sometimes it takes 2 or 3 times before it will start. If the coolant afterrun pump does not run the car will NOT start. 

I am confident everything has been properly installed because when it is running, it runs strong. Another thing i should add is that the battery light is on when the car is not running. 

Any kind of response is greatly appreciated 
Thank you for your time 
Josh


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## MisterGrieves (Jun 13, 2013)

Bought a 93 SLC a few months ago and finally am having some (of I'm sure many) problems I get to look forward to. Car was having trouble starting and would cut out while driving. I first tried replacing the fuel filter, then the fuel pump relay. Found out that fuel was getting to the rail and finally replaced the pressure regulator and everything ran as before. About 200 miles later, I'm driving the car and it just randomly dies. Won't start up again for anything. Luckily I am literally feet from my house, so I push it in the garage. Just replaced the ECM relay, and now it starts for about 2 seconds, seems normal, and then dies. If I give it gas, it will move but will still die maybe 5 seconds later. So I'm not sure what to look at next. Coil? Distributor? Put in new NGK spark plugs about 500 miles ago, but haven't touched the wires for what its worth. Any ideas?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

vrquickkid said:


> *Any kind of response is greatly appreciated*
> Thank you for your time
> Josh


 Try another forum


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## vrquickkid (Aug 1, 2012)

*??????*

Sr.Karmann 
Are you kidding me?!?!?!:banghead: 
If your such 'experts' couldnt you at least point me in the right direction?


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

vrquickkid said:


> I am a technician at a Chevrolet dealership, so i am not a 'noob' when it comes to diagnosis and repairs. But this is throwing me for a whorl and i cannot seem to figure out the issue.
> 
> I recently did some work on my vr6 jetta and now it has a no crank no start issue. Unless i do a couple things and it will eventually start. But first i will let you know of the work i have done.
> 
> ...


 
Did you plug every connector back in and made sure all grounds are tight. Seem like loose wire in harness. There are some grounds on back for head, check those first. Also loose connector like intake air temp sensor will give no reading to ECM possible be limp mode. Just saying noob! :thumbup:


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

jewnersey said:


> Couple things :
> 
> If I try to roll down my passenger window after my drivers (or vice versa) it won't work until I hit up on the first window (after its already down) like something is holding that circuit on.
> 
> Also I'm running very rich and think I'm losing some power, but the car (93 slc) starts and idles just fine (occasional rough start, but evens out quickly)


 Take apart window control module. Clean both relays in the WCM. It has poor or possible worn contacts. Small file and thin sand paper will do trick. 

There few things to check for, if its dizzy car, make sure hall sender connector still in tacked and no broken wires in the dizzy, check 02 sensor connector there no broken or fray wires. There only few things to make run rich. Worn spark plugs possible plug wires, dead or unplugged O2 sensor, engine temp sensor reads -40. Best thing to start with is to scan it first!


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

vrquickkid said:


> Sr.Karmann
> Are you kidding me?!?!?!:banghead:
> If your such 'experts' couldnt you at least point me in the right direction?


 Don't be an a$$, you said any response would be appreciated, I gave you sound advice!


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Don't be an a$$, you said any response would be appreciated, I gave you sound advice!


 Well, he did say he had a Jetta and this is the Corrado Forum.. also... he should try on the VR6 technical forum for better answers..


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

xtremevdub said:


> Well, he did say he had a Jetta and this is the Corrado Forum.. also... he should try on the VR6 technical forum for better answers..


 Oh now u gotta be a smartass too ..........:laugh: 

DO WERK eace:


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Okay, I can't find anything about this, so here goes. I want to do some compression tests, and I have a remote starter switch for working under the hood. How do I hook this up. Keep in mind I have a 90 G60, and I do not want to remove the starter to hook it up, so please tell what terminals I hook it up to based on looking into the engine compartment. Thanks guys.


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## paulytits (Jun 13, 2007)

anyone here order a set of the replica OEM floormats from spoonfedtuning? are they worth the $170? 

always wanted to get a set so i can toss these garbage walmart mats that came in the car, but that price...


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Okay, I can't find anything about this, so here goes. I want to do some compression tests, and I have a remote starter switch for working under the hood. How do I hook this up. Keep in mind I have a 90 G60, and I do not want to remove the starter to hook it up, so please tell what terminals I hook it up to based on looking into the engine compartment. Thanks guys.


 You want to hook one lead to the starter S terminal. That's circuit 50, the one with the R/BK wire going to it. The other goes to B+, battery positive terminal. Don't let the clip touch the big wires or their terminal when you attach it to the starter (circuit 30).


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Thanks, that was very helpful. Now, I am new to this, and this is the first time I did a compression test on a cars cylinders, so can I have some feedback on the results? Here is a picture of the chart I made and recorded the compression ratings in. I did compression tests at both operating temperature and cold, as I wasn't sure which one would be best. This is a G60 1.8L four cylinder, and the chart is marked 1-4 on top for cylinders, and 1-5 down the left side for test trial number. Thanks.


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## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Thanks, that was very helpful. Now, I am new to this, and this is the first time I did a compression test on a cars cylinders, so can I have some feedback on the results? Here is a picture of the chart I made and recorded the compression ratings in. I did compression tests at both operating temperature and cold, as I wasn't sure which one would be best. This is a G60 1.8L four cylinder, and the chart is marked 1-4 on top for cylinders, and 1-5 down the left side for test trial number. Thanks.


The bentley specs on a pg block compression tests are new- 116-174 psi and the wear limit is 87 psi. The max permissible difference between all four cylinders is 43.5 psi.

So according the the bentley you are within operating specs, your lowest reading on piston #1 is still about 8 psi above the wear limit, and the other 3 cylinders are on the low end of a new engine's specs. you're also within the difference spec.

So basically your engine is alright to run but you probably have some leakage through the valve guides/valvetrain/piston ring on the #1 cylinder and while its still within spec its down there. Wouldn't hurt to rebuild the head and maybe new rings, but its not a real necessity just yet if you're just gonna keep running the engine stock.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

paulytits said:


> anyone here order a set of the replica OEM floormats from spoonfedtuning? are they worth the $170?
> 
> always wanted to get a set so i can toss these garbage walmart mats that came in the car, but that price...


Absolutely yes. I need to order another set since for the quality of them $170 is a bargain.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

petethepug said:


> Absolutely yes. I need to order another set since for the quality of them $170 is a bargain.


Why another set? Wear easily? 
I'm also on the verge of ordering a set:thumbup:


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## IMWALKIN (Mar 28, 2002)

90 corrado g60.. which colored wires do I jump to bypass key ignition? also I know I saw a post on swaping out a faulty ignition a long time ago if anybody has this saved...thank you!


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

IMWALKIN said:


> 90 corrado g60.. which colored wires do I jump to bypass key ignition? also I know I saw a post on swaping out a faulty ignition a long time ago if anybody has this saved...thank you!


The end of this thread will show you how to steal one
http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4687

The only thing remotely hard about replacing the switch is getting the right bend in the screwdriver. It's a little less than 90 degrees. A small mirror will keep the frustration level low.

Picture of one I used without a problem (keys for scale)


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## IMWALKIN (Mar 28, 2002)

excellent! now I will not be stranded at work tonight!! one other ? ...which part do I order? is it the electrical part or the cylinder?? German car parts has both...just not sure what to order!! thank you!!!


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Arrow is where you'll find the screw.

Your inbox is full. I don't know the condition of your lock cylinder. If it turns I would just replace the above pictured part (electrical). Replacing the cylinder requires drilling and a lot of beer. You might want to arrange alternate transportation if that's the case.


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## IMWALKIN (Mar 28, 2002)

the key turns pretty smooth...just ordered the part...the dealer wanted $110 for it!!!!! $20 from GAP sounded better...


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

A couple of things, 
first, this is a 90 G60 and I was wondering if anyone could tell me what these things on my car are.

1: Engine compartment right next to shifter rod connection that always breaks.









2: under dash next to pedals:









3: a plug near the fuse relay panel, has a purple wire, it was never connected to anything in my car, and I can't find where it did connect:









Second, I was driving normally last night, and things were running pretty good except for the fact that when I was accelerating in first, second, and third, right after shifting, I felt thumps, like I was hitting bumps. They went away after once each gear, and did not happen in fourth or fifth. It still happened in enough varying places that I don't think bumps in the road can account for it. There was no loss in power, it literally felt like hitting small bumps. My shocks are really stiff, so I feel a lot of the smaller bumps in the road as thumps and a little noise, and this is what that was like. It was still so regular though, if anyone has experienced this or heard of something like it, I would appreciate it. There was no hesitation, and no jerking in the car, just the bump feeling, and the noise.

Finally, Last night when I was driving, all of a sudden my A/C quit working. When I got home and opened the hood, it looked like the a/c clutch wire had gotten hit by the fan. the wire was not severely damaged, but as I was looking at these things I noticed this had happened to the fan.








on the top is the fan from my car, on the right is an old fan I saved off the original fan when I replaced the whole assembly almost exactly two weeks ago. It is a Vemo OEM replacement fan. It seems to have just broken apart, there was no damage to anything else except the wire which seems to have blown the fuse almost as soon as it was sucked in, and was not wrapped around the fan at all. I am at a loss to explain how this could have happened. 

Sorry if this post is kind of long. I want to just say thanks to everyone who contributes to this thread and helps out people like me who have just started owning a Corrado.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

1. Reverse lights switch. 
I've had the same one for 23 years. Have someone shift through the gears while you look around for trouble. It's basically just a plastic cover for the rotating mechanism. 

2. Floor stop for the accelerator cable. 
If you need to adjust the cable, do it at the throttle body. Don't mess with that. 

3. Most likely it never went to anything. There's several connectors under there that where for components "to be installed at a later date". If it really bothers you, grab a torch and follow it. 

It's almost impossible to diagnose drivability problems without actually driving it. What's the condition of your CV joints? 

Those fans aren't cheap. I would send it back for a refund if it just fell apart. Your shroud or bracket didn't come loose and hit it, did it?


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey, mateok, thanks for the response. The CV joints were just fixed, and no I couldn't find anything hitting the fan blade, and nothing else was damaged or marked to indicate that it was hitting.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Like everything else on this car, here today gone tomorrow. Normal wear and tear items proprietary to the Corrado have a nasty habbit of getting ridiculously expensive if they go NLA or Obsolete. Case and point being the 1st Passat cupholder I bought for $49 and griped about it. I bought another for $99 and felt robbed. Having a NLA, NOS one for $99 in the garage when the other one breaks is bliss now.



paulytits said:


> anyone here order a set of the replica OEM floormats from spoonfedtuning? are they worth the $170?
> 
> always wanted to get a set so i can toss these garbage walmart mats that came in the car, but that price...
> 
> ...


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

There was a bad batch of fans that VAG put out. It was about the same time that issues with plastic coolant flanges broke like a plague (3-4 years ago). Audi did a "courtesy repair" on our fan & radiator that exploded on the Allroad. It disintegrated at about 6.5K rpm on a 1 to 2 shift shortly after they replaced a cylinder head under warranty. 

Can you see the build date on the fan?



ArchAngel4 said:


> Finally, Last night when I was driving, all of a sudden my A/C quit working. When I got home and opened the hood, it looked like the a/c clutch wire had gotten hit by the fan. the wire was not severely damaged, but as I was looking at these things I noticed this had happened to the fan.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

I can't find the build date on my new fan, on the old fan it is 1990. This is a brand new fan bought from Vemo through Amazon.com almost exactly 2 weeks ago, and I put it in about 10 days ago, so it may have been built recently, depending on the shelf turnover that these thing experience.
Here is a link to the Amazon page if you want to see it: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G5UNTQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Ok, here is something kind of worrisome. As mentioned in above posts, I tore into my radiator set up, and removed a lot of stuff. When I had gotten it all out, I was looking around in there and found these two bolts:
















just sitting in here: 








Here is the big picture of where they were sitting








With of course the starter being on the right, and the supercharger just to the left. 
So my question is, am I missing something here, and what exactly are these bolts for. Also, I could only find one empty hole, so where does the other one go? Thanks a bunch for helping out everyone, and thanks for bearing with the newbie.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Not sure if that place is a motor mount bracket? Those bolts look like something else. Manifold?


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Ok, here is something kind of worrisome. As mentioned in above posts, I tore into my radiator set up, and removed a lot of stuff. When I had gotten it all out, I was looking around in there and found these two bolts:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Looks like you have solid front engine mount. A:your missing the stud or bolt that secure the front engine mount. I'm really sure you here big clunk when accelerating, get that repair or replace ASAP before damage the hood near alternator hits the hood.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

You need a new front engine mount, the stud has sheered off. That would account for some drivability issues for sure. That bolt you found is from a hardware store, not OEM.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Update: I have discovered that I actually have a BBM solid front motor mount ( I did some research and things didn't look right.) That being said, I am not sure how to reattach it. Do I jack up the tranny, and then just screw the bolt back in? The bolt did not shear, it has reddish factory paint on the bottom. and I still do not know where the other bolt goes. Thanks for the help.


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

Yes need loosen top bolt on the front engine mount, then jack up the engine-trans with floor jack, here picture how the engine mount look like when it together. Also check the engine bracket is not damaged, like stress cracks or torn! 










I label it too!


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Thanks CHC, that makes things very clear. I know what I need to do now. So what is that other bolt, the one with the Allen head on it? It was loose right next to the top stud up underneath the welded engine mount.


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

My back license plate tub just fell off. Should I just glue it back on or is there something better to do


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I have a check engine code that tells me the knock censor 2 is bad. Could this decrease the performance of my vr6? Code is #2144 which states "Knock sensor II ,Faulty sensor wiring, faulty sensor, or faulty control unit"


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## Skursh (Oct 23, 2011)

Jewnersey. Just use some double sided sticky tape to hold it on. That's what everyone else uses, unless they buy new for 100


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> I have a check engine code that tells me the knock censor 2 is bad. Could this decrease the performance of my vr6? Code is #2144 which states "Knock sensor II ,Faulty sensor wiring, faulty sensor, or faulty control unit"


Without a doubt it will. In order to operate optimally, control of the firing point should lie as close as possible to the knock limit. The ECU will substitute a pre-programmed knock map if no signal is found when it goes into closed loop. 

It's probably retarding your timing already in an effort to save the engine from destruction. Consult the repair manual and you'll read "unable to achieve high speed". That means timing is being pulled.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Is it just replacing the sensor or is it more to it? Thanks.:thumbup:

Will this fix the problem or?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Well, I like to start with the cheapest solution first. It won't cost you a dime to check it's circuit. 

To test the circuit, disconnect it's connector (3 pin black next to starter). With a multimeter set to Ohms, you should see a reading of no more than 1.5 Ohms between terminals 2&3 of the harness connector. The same applies for 1&3, 1.5 Ohms max. 

If that checks out, get a new knock sensor. You'll need another ECU if it keeps throwing codes.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Will do mateok!

:thumbup:

Hopefully that's all that could go wrong.

Any easy way of replacing it? Lol


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

I have a 91 G60 w/abs and I deleted the abs stuff under the hood. My question is can I install non-abs hubs? Any help will be appriciated, thanks in advance!!!

David


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Sensor is thrashed.









Do I just unscrew the oil cooler? (Hoses still attached)

Super anxious to get this done.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Well I just finished the shebang.









New bosh








4's all across!!! No more codes and it runs amazing. (I want to cry):thumbup:


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## mikIIVr6 (Dec 12, 2007)

*turn signals*

my turn signals don't work, previously they would only work if my steering wheel was in a certain position, then they would work and not blink on my cluster, now they do not work at all, anyone know what this could be from?


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## pileofredparts (Mar 20, 2009)

mikIIVr6 said:


> my turn signals don't work, previously they would only work if my steering wheel was in a certain position, then they would work and not blink on my cluster, now they do not work at all, anyone know what this could be from?


check the plugs going into the back of the stalks at the column. they could be loose


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## T Roberts (Sep 3, 2003)

*Hard Start*

Without me going through 8k posts  ... 
My 92 VR6 has been getting harder and harder to start. It's up to about 7 or 8 seconds now and then it runs rough like it's flooded before cleaning up. I had assumed the injectors were slobbering but noticed a thread where a fuel pressure regulator fixed the same complaint. Any insight on how to narrow this down? Thanks.


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## Rubberband (Sep 28, 2006)

*Cat Converter*

So my corrado OBD1 92 VR6 seems to have a bad cat.
I am in socal so a functioning cat is required or you cant pass smog/get current tags. 
Can any of the experts confirm that a cat off a 94-95 OBD1 VR Jetta/Golf will fit?
I found one that I can get for a reasonable cost, they look the same with one 02 sensor bung in the front like my rado has. 1HM-131-701F is the part number on said used cat. when I google, it says 94-95 jetta/golf/passat. 

pretty sure the downpipes on all OBD1 VR's are the same, but uncertain about the cat .


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

krazy4dubz said:


> I have a 91 G60 w/abs and I deleted the abs stuff under the hood. My question is can I install non-abs hubs? Any help will be appriciated, thanks in advance!!!
> 
> David


Please help...


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

krazy4dubz said:


> Please help...


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4379684-g60-non-abs-vs-abs-hub


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## paulytits (Jun 13, 2007)

is the ECU part number located on the actual cover of the ecu? or is it that tiny code that's on the end of the connector that you can see after lifting up the rain tray??


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

It's on the ECU itself. There's two sets of numbers on the label. Disregard the top number (BOSCH number). The bottom 9 digit followed by letter(s) is the VW part number, eg. 021 997 258 A, B, C, etc.


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## paulytits (Jun 13, 2007)

mateok said:


> It's on the ECU itself. There's two sets of numbers on the label. Disregard the top number (BOSCH number). The bottom 9 digit followed by letter(s) is the VW part number, eg. 021 997 258 A, B, C, etc.


thanks dude :thumbup:


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## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

*VR6 still won't start*

So today I changed the spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor (what a terrible design that rotor idea is, give it a set screw!) Anyway, I still have no spark, I haven't checked the coil yet but I don't think that is it. I've checked the ignition switch and it checks out okay (I jumpered the connector and got the same result, cranks but no fire) I'm beginning to think that it may be a crank pos. sensor or maybe an immobilizer? 


Anyway, the symptoms started one day as I was driving, I pushed in the clutch and the car died but I was still moving 30ish mph so I bump started it and it fired back up. This happened a few times. About a week later, it would take 10-15 seconds of cranking before it would start (should I say even try to start as it slowly came to life cylinder by cylinder it seemed). 


This behavior lasted for about a week or two and now it won't start at all. Any particular directions I should be headed with this? I am mechanically savvy and can understand electrics as well. I just would like a direction.


Edit: That read a lil' confusing. After the ign. tune up it still just cranks.

Dbl Edit: Before changing ign. parts it wouldn't start, after changing the symptoms persist.


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## DubCorrado (Aug 7, 2009)

*HVAC Vacuum Lines*

Sorry for budging in but I am in the process of putting back together my dashboard and heaterbox from doing a heater core change. The car is a 1990 G60, I know that the HVAC controls have 5 lines that are vacuumed to little mechanisms that open and operate the various flaps within the box. My question is, after unplugging these lines, do I have to go in and manually create a vacuum in the lines first before plugging them back? Or can I just plug them up normally and the vacuum lines will vacuum themselves and operate normally after the car is started and it uses the engines vacuum?


Thanks,
Mark


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## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

DubCorrado said:


> Sorry for budging in but I am in the process of putting back together my dashboard and heaterbox from doing a heater core change. The car is a 1990 G60, I know that the HVAC controls have 5 lines that are vacuumed to little mechanisms that open and operate the various flaps within the box. My question is, after unplugging these lines, do I have to go in and manually create a vacuum in the lines first before plugging them back? Or can I just plug them up normally and the vacuum lines will vacuum themselves and operate normally after the car is started and it uses the engines vacuum?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> Mark


The engine should create the vacuum.


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## corradolover1 (Jun 7, 2012)

Removing outside door handle after the screw is taken out? Haven't had a clear answer, someone said turn it ninety degrees and pull, but I'm not certain that's it.


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## mikIIVr6 (Dec 12, 2007)

I have all the wiring seems to be fine, i though i might need to replace the turn signal stalk but it sometime would work so I figured its some kind of wiring issue


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

All right, I want to know if my G60 is running too hot. I have pretty basic setup, with a stage one chip, exhaust, and air intake as the only serious mods. My radiator fan comes on at around 212 degrees Fahrenheit for the low speed. Is this ok? My oil temp is really good, in slow/stopped traffic at 100+ I haven't seen it go over 216 degrees Fahrenheit. Do I need to fix anything, or is this ok? Thanks.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

ArchAngel4 said:


> All right, I want to know if my G60 is running too hot. I have pretty basic setup, with a stage one chip, exhaust, and air intake as the only serious mods. My radiator fan comes on at around 212 degrees Fahrenheit for the low speed. Is this ok? My oil temp is really good, in slow/stopped traffic at 100+ I haven't seen it go over 216 degrees Fahrenheit. Do I need to fix anything, or is this ok? Thanks.


Normal operating temp is 195. You're fine.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

mikIIVr6 said:


> I have all the wiring seems to be fine, i though i might need to replace the turn signal stalk but it sometime would work so I figured its some kind of wiring issue


The turn stalk is an insanely simple device. It's unlikely you have a wiring issue but, more likely a corroded contact one. Ensure they don't look like this. 








The business end is merely those two contacts touching when you move the stalk.









Take care if you open it up for inspection/cleaning. It's spring loaded and the horn contact will prevent it from separating completely.


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

Skursh said:


> Jewnersey. Just use some double sided sticky tape to hold it on. That's what everyone else uses, unless they buy new for 100



what I did was (after using just 3m double sided tape and having that fail) was to epoxy some machine screws to the tub (the tub has 2 circles etched into the back of it - near the upper corners) and 3m tape and then screwed some nuts (and lock washers) through the hatch onto the the tub/screw combo from the speed activated spoiler access panel. I use my hatch nearly everyday in 95f+ weather and this combo has yet to fail

I can provide pics if need be


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

I'm currently running some heavy duty epoxy. Seems to be holding fine for now


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## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

So I'm still trying to figure this out. When I attempt to start my C, it will spin the motor but no spark, also my tach doesn't move. Crank position sensor?

Edit: I've bypassed the ign. switch so I know it's not that.

Edit: 93 SLC vr


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

1956dub said:


> So I'm still trying to figure this out. When I attempt to start my C, it will spin the motor but no spark, also my tach doesn't move. Crank position sensor?
> 
> Edit: I've bypassed the ign. switch so I know it's not that.
> 
> Edit: 93 SLC vr


Distributor or coil pack


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

^What's the status of fuse 15 and the ECU relay?


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## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

HavokRuels said:


> Distributor or coil pack


Dizzy car, with new cap, rotor, plugs, and wires. All quality parts. All the fuses check out fine and I pulled the cover off the relay and checked that, looks good to me.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

1956dub said:


> Dizzy car, with new cap, rotor, plugs, and wires. All quality parts. All the fuses check out fine and I pulled the cover off the relay and checked that, looks good to me.


I would give the speed sensor some scrutiny. Those are notorious for failing due to the wires becoming damaged. A failure will result in a no start without RPM's while cranking. 

You should see a reading of between 500 - 700 Ohms between pins 1 & 2 if the circuit and sensor are good. That's the red and green wires. The third one is just a shield and will result in infinite Ohms if included in the test.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I recently replaced my knock sensor 2 and a hose for the oil cooler.

Ever since I've been given 2 engine codes. The first one is 2341 and the second is 2342.
When i got the high flow cat I installed a brand new Bosch oxygen sensor.

Then my fans won't kick in anymore.
The fuses on slot 13 and 19 keep blowing out. Car was sputtering on the freeway and my temperatures have gone way up. Heeeeelp!!!

Please!!! :banghead:


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> I recently replaced my knock sensor 2 and a hose for the oil cooler.
> 
> Ever since I've been given 2 engine codes. The first one is 2341 and the second is 2342.
> When i got the high flow cat I installed a brand new Bosch oxygen sensor.
> ...


2341 - oxygen sensor **regulation**
That doesn't necessarily mean the o2 sensor is faulty. It could be an exhaust / intake leak, an injector malfunction, faulty fuel pressure regulator, or a dirty MAF sensor. 

2342 - that's the oxygen sensor itself or it's wiring. If you recently installed a new one, I would check the circuit. Low fuel pressure will also throw that code. 

What's common to both those codes? Fuel pressure. 
Check it:thumbup:

Blowing fuses 13 & 19 point straight to the FCM or it's wiring. 19 is unusual so, I would look at the fan wiring harness for shorts to ground. Put a new S13 in and honk the horn to eliminate that stupid piggyback possibility.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

mateok said:


> 2341 - oxygen sensor **regulation**
> That doesn't necessarily mean the o2 sensor is faulty. It could be an exhaust / intake leak, an injector malfunction, faulty fuel pressure regulator, or a dirty MAF sensor.
> 
> 2342 - that's the oxygen sensor itself or it's wiring. If you recently installed a new one, I would check the circuit. Low fuel pressure will also throw that code.
> ...


Heck yeah!

So, should I start with the fuel pressure regulator? (Swap it out)
I'm Not sure how to check on that matter. 

Oh, almost forgot I swapped the two fuses on the fan control module since they were blown too. Those are the only two that have not blown :screwy: number 13 and 19 keep blowing out.









On the black box up front
The fuses are 5amp and a 20amp?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

http://www.corrado-club.ca/mods/vr6_fp_test.html


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

1956dub said:


> Dizzy car, with new cap, rotor, plugs, and wires. All quality parts. All the fuses check out fine and I pulled the cover off the relay and checked that, looks good to me.


All above mentioned parts deliver spark, but your coil provides the spark and your ecm provides for your coil. Back track. I would say yes a CPS but like Mateok always says, simple testing can save you big money in the end.

Sent from my cellular

Follow me on Instagram: europeein


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

They keep burning out immediately as I put them on. Disconnected the radiator fan and still burns out. :banghead:


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> They keep burning out immediately as I put them on. Disconnected the radiator fan and still burns out. :banghead:


You have a dead short to ground somewhere (power wire touching ground). If a new fuse is installed and it immediately blows this tells you that the short is somewhere between the fuse box and the consumer (if it's not relayed). 

I would start my search in the box









Edit: you should check all the horn wiring, as well. That little box with 280 in it means it continues to track 280.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I suck at wiring

I've been at it for a while.
It worked fine yesterday and today in the morning:thumbdown:
I'm just desperate since I have no idea how the wiring diagram goes.
Fudge:banghead:

Mateok, thanks man. I was referring to the fan control module, the fuses are a 5amp and a 20amp?


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

blackslcchild said:


> I suck at wiring
> 
> I've been at it for a while.
> It worked fine yesterday and today in the morning:thumbdown:
> ...


Like Mateok said, start chasing your entire FCM harness for a break. Google some basic info on how to do it and believe me, you'll catch on quick. Wiring is the most intimidating aspect of diagnostics, I still have nightmares about it.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

What a gremlin of a problem.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> Mateok, thanks man. I was referring to the fan control module, the fuses are a 5amp and a 20amp?


Those are blowing as soon as you put 'em in? Or is it 13 & 19?


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Well I've disconnected the fan, the radiator connection, the fan control module, the horn, and all the sensors on the thermostat. I still blow a fuse as I try to insert one. Little sparks exactly on the entry of the fuse slots. 

I've taken the battery off to see the wires and they look OK. Still, I have everything disconnected at the moment and still have this problem.:thumbdown:

Thanks for all the help guys I hope we can resolve it.:thumbup:


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

mateok said:


> Those are blowing as soon as you put 'em in? Or is it 13 & 19?


I noticed those were blown as I was looking at my car( was looking at the o2 sensor) and checking slot #18. Then I noticed slot number #19 was blown along with slot #13.
The only ones that keep blowing are 19 and 13.

The ones on the fan control module are fine and don't blow anymore.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

You've verified the short isn't being caused by the consumers by disconnecting them. Now you need to start making your way back to power. 









Disconnect T2c, e, and p, one at a time. 
T2c, in classic Bentley style, has two listings. One behind the instrument panel and another on the fresh air blower. 
T2e is behind the relay panel
T2p is another double listing, lucky you. One behind the relay panel and the other near the right headlight. 

There's a million two wire connectors back there. You'll need to find the appropriate one's by wire colors. 

I'm pretty certain you'll eventually find a damaged wire. Sparks flying is usually from that. You just did your knock sensor, right? Go back over everything you touched or moved in order to do that.:thumbup:


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Matoek I have no idea how to read that. As embarrassing as it sounds, its the truth.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

blackslcchild said:


> Matoek I have no idea how to read that. As embarrassing as it sounds, its the truth.


Don't look at it as a whole, go look at the Legend in front wiring section, T is connector


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

So are those the exact connections in the fusebox below the dash?
Black and yellow wires.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

blackslcchild said:


> So are those the exact connections in the fusebox below the dash?
> Black and yellow wires.


Yup, and you can follow to track 280 if you are having issues there, a1/5 & a1/7 are the connectors to the fuseblock, you can see where they go according to the first few pages of the wiring diagram for your year. Keep in mind, black/yellw are usually current limiting, lose power when starter is engaged


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> Matoek I have no idea how to read that. As embarrassing as it sounds, its the truth.


That's my fault. I assume everyone who drives a Corrado knows DIN wiring diagrams

As Sr. Karmann pointed out, there's a troubleshooting guide and an explanation on how to decipher those cryptic diagrams at the beginning of the electrical section. There's a tutorial on short circuits, as well. 

I have several self-help studies provided by VW. They make it a little easier to understand, example:








Most can be had for free, just look around. 

What you're looking for are three separate two wire connectors. All you're doing is continuing to isolate the circuits. Eventually you're going to cut power to the problem wire and it's not going to blow the fuse anymore. Then you'll have it cornered with nowhere to hide. 

T2/a,b,c, etc. are indeed names for individual connectors. Like this but, only two wires.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I'm getting the hang of it right meow.

I hope we can find this gremlin.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

There is a short in the brown sensor connector that goes to the brown sensor on the thermostat housing.
Black and yellow wire.
:thumbup:

Looks like the wire is thrashed.

I'll keep looking. 
Thanks mateok and Sr karmann! Blessings upon you.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Okay, here is an interesting question I have been researching. I have been wanting to convert my 90 G60 speedometer from the mechanical to the VSS style. I also saw that the 91+ G60 oil temp reading are often funky. My question is, if I got just the speedo, none of the other gauges, and the VSS to screw into where the mechanical one is, will it work just fine when mounting in a 90 G60 cluster set up with 90 G60 tach. and MFA? Thanks.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Well I got it fixed! Total of 6 wires were thrashed. So far the low fan setting kicks in at







temperatures here are 117° now:thumbdown: oh, and no more blown fuses.:thumbup:

Going to take it for a long spin and see if those codes come back (2341 and 2342) I'll come back

Thanks matoek and SR. Karmann:thumbup:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

blackslcchild said:


> Well I got it fixed! Total of 6 wires were thrashed. So far the low fan setting kicks in at temperatures here are 117° now:thumbdown: oh, and no more blown fuses.:thumbup:
> 
> Going to take it for a long spin and see if those codes come back (2341 and 2342) I'll come back
> 
> Thanks matoek and SR. Karmann:thumbup:


:thumbup:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Okay, here is an interesting question I have been researching. I have been wanting to convert my 90 G60 speedometer from the mechanical to the VSS style. I also saw that the 91+ G60 oil temp reading are often funky. My question is, if I got just the speedo, none of the other gauges, and the VSS to screw into where the mechanical one is, will it work just fine when mounting in a 90 G60 cluster set up with 90 G60 tach. and MFA? Thanks.


I am not 100%, but am going to say no, the boards are not compatible. Just get the digital cluster and swap out your oil sensors if concerned, you'd have to look into the swap tho. I did a 16v swap on mine and used earlier sensors and they worked just fine.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> Well I got it fixed! Total of 6 wires were thrashed. So far the low fan setting kicks in at
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice work:thumbup:


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Oh sorry, I spelled you're name wrong. Mateok.


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## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

HavokRuels said:


> All above mentioned parts deliver spark, but your coil provides the spark and your ecm provides for your coil. Back track. I would say yes a CPS but like Mateok always says, simple testing can save you big money in the end.
> 
> Sent from my cellular
> 
> Follow me on Instagram: europeein


So my CPS checks out ok and the wires look fine. I've checked the hall sender with an led and it flickers properly. I've also checked the input to the coil and have a hall signal there. Then I checked at terminals 1 and 15 and had nothing. 

I took apart my coil and the ignition control module looked discolored and had some type of oil or something oozing out. So I ordered one of those. I will let you know how it goes.


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## 90CorradoTurbo (Jul 4, 2013)

*N00b with turbo question*

So I'm trying to help a 2nd cousin out and get his corrado working. Its a 1990 with the 1.8 and I don't know if it was a g60 or not, it has a new head on it, and a turbo. I know that none of the corrado's came with a turbo, only a supercharger. He cannot get his running and I'm wondering if its because the ecu isn't programmed for a turbo? Can it just be reprogrammed or would I have to find him a comparable/compatible ecu from a turbo 1.8 vw?

He live 90 miles away in vegas and I haven't had a chance to look over the car and give him my 2c.

He's trying to sell it to get money to fix his wife's car, so it should be running...

I'm a mechanic by trade (7-10 yrs) and am comfortable working on anything..

Any and all advice is greatly appreciated!


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## Clueless In Seattle (Jul 4, 2013)

*Could This Be a Battery Draw?*

Hello! As my user name indicates, I know zip about my beloved Corrado (or any car for that matter). I'm the original owner of a 1992 SLC which is well taken care of. It also only has 19,000 miles on it believe it or not. It's gone through a few batteries over the years and I got a new one about two months ago. About 3 weeks after that installation, went to start it, and it was dead as door nail, all the displays were blank. Got it jump started and took it to my trusted and beloved mechanic who did every test for draws that he could and found nothing. Now it's 3 weeks later and it did it again, not *as* dead, but no crank.

One thing I did notice before I got the new battery -- the trip odometer stopped working and just stays at 0.00. The regular odometer is fine. I mentioned it to the mechanic and he looked leery but he's not a Corrado pro. Anyway, he can't find a wiring diagrams online to see if this could be causing a drain. He tested everything. 

I hate to be a bother, considering that's as much as I know and can describe. Thought? 

Happy and safe 4th to all! And thank you for any help -- much appreciated!

Sonja


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

19,000 mile original owner, wow! That's a true collector's item. Since you have a trusted mechanic working the problem already, I'll just make a suggestion. Point him towards the automatic seat belts. 

Here's a Mitchell wiring diagram for a '92. It's not as detailed as the factory one but, it'll get the job done. 
http://www.corrado.com.pl/elektryka/corrado92.pdf


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## Clueless In Seattle (Jul 4, 2013)

mateok said:


> 19,000 mile original owner, wow! That's a true collector's item. Since you have a trusted mechanic working the problem already, I'll just make a suggestion. Point him towards the automatic seat belts.
> 
> Here's a Mitchell wiring diagram for a '92. It's not as detailed as the factory one but, it'll get the job done.
> http://www.corrado.com.pl/elektryka/corrado92.pdf


I don't drive much.  There's stuff wrong with it just from age that are shot. Like the stupid passenger side window, the "carriage" (I think that's what VW tech called it) is busted but a least the window is stuck closed. 

The seat belts!!! How could that cause a drain on the battery? Never mind. I wouldn't understand.  

Thank you so much mateok! Very grateful for your help!


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

:beer: for mateok!


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

*FV-QR*

Does anybody know if the Corrado and the Passat b4 sunroof internals are the same? The cable guides and all?


----------



## Clueless In Seattle (Jul 4, 2013)

blackslcchild said:


> :beer: for mateok!


I agree and I'm buying! What a weird thing to drain a battery. I googled and it's not a problem unique to VW. 

One last question about this ... can I simply unhook the seat belts from the track to stop the draw until it's fixed this being a long weekend? BTW, neither belt has ever gotten stuck or anything if that's of any importance. 

Cars are complicated. And thank you so much again!


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Clueless In Seattle said:


> One last question about this ... can I simply unhook the seat belts from the track to stop the draw until it's fixed this being a long weekend? BTW, neither belt has ever gotten stuck or anything if that's of any importance.


You can. It's fairly involved disabling them. You would need to remove both left and right rear trim cards. 








Behind those you'll find the motors and relays. Simply pull the relays to cut power. Of course, your seat belts will no longer work and you'll need to utilize the emergency latch if you plan on driving. 

The seat belts are obviously just a guess (albeit an educated one). By no means would I say that's definitely your problem. I would suggest simply disconnecting the battery until the actual problem is found.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> Does anybody know if the Corrado and the Passat b4 sunroof internals are the same? The cable guides and all?


Found my own answer, internals are all the same except for the part that pops the inside headliner up.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> Found my own answer, internals are all the same except for the part that pops the inside headliner up.


And, what were the results? It'd be nice to know I have a back up plan for my metal panel, should the Corrado gremlins get to it.


----------



## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

I was in the process of doing the glass roof swap and the B4 assy I have is all busted up. So I was looking for parts and all the parts cross over from the Corrado. The Corrado has 2 more parts than the Passat roof and the frame assy is the same as well. From what it looks like all you need to do for a glass swap is remove the 2 pieces from the corrado assy along with the metal panel and inside headliner parts and install the glass and it's panel. I still need a repair kit as the corrado is busted as well, the main reason for going to glass.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> I was in the process of doing the glass roof swap and the B4 assy I have is all busted up. So I was looking for parts and all the parts cross over from the Corrado. The Corrado has 2 more parts than the Passat roof and the frame assy is the same as well. From what it looks like all you need to do for a glass swap is remove the 2 pieces from the corrado assy along with the metal panel and inside headliner parts and install the glass and it's panel. I still need a repair kit as the corrado is busted as well, the main reason for going to glass.


If you go glass you can use MKIII as well  I tried fitting a metal panel to a glass slide assy when I firdst got my C and couldn't get the damn thing to work, I love my metal panel :heart:


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

The headliner slider pieces have to be removed. Everything else it looks as though the parts cross.

Just having trouble finding the part I need w/o buying a bunch of parts that are good on mine.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> The headliner slider pieces have to be removed. Everything else it looks as though the parts cross.
> 
> Just having trouble finding the part I need w/o buying a bunch of parts that are good on mine.


The heights of the mounting points for the lid are substantially different


----------



## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

I'll let you know once I get the replacement parts in.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> I'll let you know once I get the replacement parts in.


Ya Rick, lemme know :beer:


----------



## VR Vote (Sep 26, 2005)

rather new to corrado's let alone vw's in general...

I bought my g60 which had been converted to 5lug by the previous owner. what parts should I expect to be slc specific?

& if i'm looking to buy sway bars f&r. should I be buying g60 sway bars or g60's?

any info is appreciated.  :thumbup:


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

CamberKraut1.8t said:


> rather new to corrado's let alone vw's in general...
> 
> I bought my g60 which had been converted to 5lug by the previous owner. what parts should I expect to be slc specific?
> 
> ...


That depends on how involved the conversion is. This thread covers simple spacers and hubs to full Plus suspension swaps. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?590904-G60-4lug-to-5-lug-conversion-list


----------



## VR Vote (Sep 26, 2005)

Excellent man. That Def helps w some type of direction.


----------



## bunkkaws (Feb 7, 2008)

Just snapped my oil temp sensor by over torquing  I didn't go that tight however I figured years of heat cycling weakened the metal.

Anyway what you you recommend as a torque spec for the oil temperature sensor? Bentley only states 18 ft/lb for the oil pressure sensors, and nothing for the oil temp sensor. I assume I would torque it the same as the oil pressure sensors but I am not trying to break this one too.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

18 ft lb is nothing. I can't imagine you'd snap it with that. I usually just hold the ratchet in my palm and snug it up with delicate things, like banjo bolts, easy to snap.


----------



## B3owner (May 18, 2010)

So um planning to buy a corrado, I need an expert to help me inspect the vehicle before I buy it . The vehicle is somewhere in L.A and I need the experts here


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

bunkkaws said:


> Just snapped my oil temp sensor by over torquing  I didn't go that tight however I figured years of heat cycling weakened the metal.
> 
> Anyway what you you recommend as a torque spec for the oil temperature sensor? Bentley only states 18 ft/lb for the oil pressure sensors, and nothing for the oil temp sensor. I assume I would torque it the same as the oil pressure sensors but I am not trying to break this one too.


You need to find the right size tap with the correct pitch and run it through if it's still difficult to install the new one. You may have some crud built up in there.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

B3owner said:


> So um planning to buy a corrado, I need an expert to help me inspect the vehicle before I buy it . The vehicle is somewhere in L.A and I need the experts here


Lucky you. Scott at Stray Dog Garage in Huntington Beach. If the car is in L.A. make arrangements for both of you to meet at his shop. Not only will you be happy he can tell you the good but you'll be ecstatic he can inform you of the bad most wound never catch. If the seller isn't down for this consider walking. If selling I would gladly accept any challenge to look for issues on my car so they could be fixed and get a higher price. A shady seller would not.

Although if it's tachy's car don't walk, that car is the exception along with Zeb's that sold recently.


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## bunkkaws (Feb 7, 2008)

petethepug said:


> You need to find the right size tap with the correct pitch and run it through if it's still difficult to install the new one. You may have some crud built up in there.


Thanks pete :beer:

It's a M10 x 1.0 tap from 42 draft designs, it's new and clean. The sensor has a crush washer on it and it isn't tapered so it sit's flush when screwed all the way in (unlike NPT 1/8 sensors)

I just need to know how tight to make it so it doesn't leak eace:


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Can't use any type of Teflon tape or sealant except the conductive stuff. It's generally only used in aerospace or industrial. Highly regulated since it contains lead and sold in cans with a brush for $50-$200.

Here's the exception for any issues on sensors that screw into the block that need sealant or a good lube:









It can be had local in SoCal from an Industiral Supply Company, McMaster-Carr. 2.75 oz tube for $8.89. It's about half way down the page on the left side under *High-Temperature Antiseize Lubricants part # 1280 k41. *It contains lead so use gloves.* Grainger sells the same tube for $68 *

*[URL]http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/2157/=mc1rt1*[/URL]


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## bunkkaws (Feb 7, 2008)

Thanks Pete!

Damn I didn't know that I can't use teflon tape. The money pit VR6 strikes again....


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## B3owner (May 18, 2010)

petethepug said:


> Lucky you. Scott at Stray Dog Garage in Huntington Beach. If the car is in L.A. make arrangements for both of you to meet at his shop. Not only will you be happy he can tell you the good but you'll be ecstatic he can inform you of the bad most wound never catch. If the seller isn't down for this consider walking. If selling I would gladly accept any challenge to look for issues on my car so they could be fixed and get a higher price. A shady seller would not.
> 
> Although if it's tachy's car don't walk, that car is the exception along with Zeb's that sold recently.


Thank you so much Pete.


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Something thats been bugging me for a while. Whenever I go to a parts store and they try to look something up, and I tell them i have a 1991 VW Corrado G60 1.8l They always ask me "Is that the PG-B Motor or the PG-C Motor".

What exactly is the difference between those engine codes? All I know is that the systems say 75% are B and 25% are C.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

cyberstasi said:


> Something thats been bugging me for a while. Whenever I go to a parts store and they try to look something up, and I tell them i have a 1991 VW Corrado G60 1.8l They always ask me "Is that the PG-B Motor or the PG-C Motor".
> 
> What exactly is the difference between those engine codes? All I know is that the systems say 75% are B and 25% are C.


California code?


----------



## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey, I have a couple of new issues I wanted some feedback on. 
First, my gas tank is behaving weird, I recently was in the mountains, and the engine just died from lack of fuel. This isn't the first time it has happened either. I managed to get about 1.4-1.5 gallons into it, and got it to the next town where it took 6.1 gallons to fill it up completely. When it died, the gas gauge read a little over 1/4 of a tank. Any thoughts?
Second, The vent adjustment switch on the Air controls is no longer switching the air flow. In other words, I can only get the air to come straight out of the top vents, it won't come out the bottom, or the defrost vents. Where should I start looking to fix this issue?
Third and finally, I am having a weird seeming vacuum leak. When I accelerate, the needle on my gas gauge goes down, and when I brake, it goes up. This change varies a lot in amount, but it can be as much as a quarter of a tank of change in the needle. Where should I look to try to fix this issue. I have replaced a lot of vacuum line, and am still working on getting all of it. after this started happening, I replaced the 1-meter ECU vacuum line, as it was loose and rotted where it connected to the throttle body, but this changed nothing, either for the better, or worse. 
If anyone has any thoughts or ideas, I definitely appreciate the help. Thanks.


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Sr. Karmann said:


> California code?


i have no idea...That could make sense... but did california really get 25% of the Corrados sent to the US in 1991?

My only other thought was if the PG-C was the later G60s that came with the 2x lcd digital clusters.
I dont know when exactly they switched from the mech to digi odo.


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

cyberstasi said:


> Something thats been bugging me for a while. Whenever I go to a parts store and they try to look something up, and I tell them i have a 1991 VW Corrado G60 1.8l They always ask me "Is that the PG-B Motor or the PG-C Motor".
> 
> What exactly is the difference between those engine codes? All I know is that the systems say 75% are B and 25% are C.


 
1.8L, Fed and Canada, thru VIN 021000, VIN B, C, SOHC.

WVWD"B" or

WVWD"C" in the vin prefix.

I have a 2/90 build date and it falls way before that 021000 VIN. This may come up when purchasing starters since there are at least two different versions for the 5 SP M on the G60. Pretty sure they're more early than late 91 G60 so it seems to make sense.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

petethepug said:


> 1.8L, Fed and Canada, thru VIN 021000, VIN B, C, SOHC.
> 
> WVWD"B" or
> 
> ...


Didn't know that, good stuff:thumbup:


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Hey, I have a couple of new issues I wanted some feedback on.
> First, my gas tank is behaving weird, I recently was in the mountains, and the engine just died from lack of fuel. This isn't the first time it has happened either. I managed to get about 1.4-1.5 gallons into it, and got it to the next town where it took 6.1 gallons to fill it up completely. When it died, the gas gauge read a little over 1/4 of a tank. Any thoughts?
> Second, The vent adjustment switch on the Air controls is no longer switching the air flow. In other words, I can only get the air to come straight out of the top vents, it won't come out the bottom, or the defrost vents. Where should I start looking to fix this issue?
> Third and finally, I am having a weird seeming vacuum leak. When I accelerate, the needle on my gas gauge goes down, and when I brake, it goes up. This change varies a lot in amount, but it can be as much as a quarter of a tank of change in the needle. Where should I look to try to fix this issue. I have replaced a lot of vacuum line, and am still working on getting all of it. after this started happening, I replaced the 1-meter ECU vacuum line, as it was loose and rotted where it connected to the throttle body, but this changed nothing, either for the better, or worse.
> If anyone has any thoughts or ideas, I definitely appreciate the help. Thanks.


The fuel gauge is entirely electric, not affected by vacuum, or lack thereof. Your vent problems however, are most likely caused by that. 
















Use the information in the link to convert the VW 1301 to multimeter values and check the gauge. 








http://www.bentleypublishers.com/tech/vw/bentley.vw1301.testing.htm
The fuel needle will fluctuate up and down when you accelerate and brake, that's normal.


----------



## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey thanks mateok. Really it is normal for the needle to fluctuate by as much as a quarter of a tank when accelerating and braking. Keep in mind it does it very quickly, I can visibly watch the needle move. Also what are your thoughts on the problem where I ran out of gas while still having a half tank left. Could that be related to a faulty fuel gauge? Thanks for your advice.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

A quarter of a tank swing sounds a bit excessive. The thickness of a needle swing is considered acceptable. It's more pronounced with less fuel in the tank, more sloshing around. 

The sending until will eventually wear out. It's an arm with a float on the end that rubs up and down on metal contacts. It's rare that it would reach that point but, test it anyhow. 

It can be a real challenge / headache sourcing (quality) fuel components for the Corrado now. Most everything is NLA. Start reading through old fuel pump threads if you find the sending unit is defective.


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## Jacobradd (Jul 13, 2013)

I am experiencing something that sounds and feels like a tire is rubbing on something when I turn the wheel I my Corrado to the left but not the right. I have looked but can't see what it would be.. Can anybody help me?


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey mateok, thanks, I will look into that. Jacob, it sounds to me like you might be low on power steering fluid, or have a power steering leak some where. My family has a 92 dodge grand caravan that did exactly that. Every time I turned it to the left, there was resistance and a grinding noise like rubber on a fender. I topped it off with power steering fluid, and the noise went away immediately. This is where I would start with you sound. I hope this helps.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

:banghead:


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Ok, I have question. Is there any way to measure to temperature of the coolant independently from the cluster gauge. The reason I ask, is I think my gauge is reading wrong, but I have no way to verify that. I replaced the entire cluster a while back with one from another 90 corrado, and after looking at the internals of the coolant/gas/ MFA gauge, I saw that my original was slightly different. The little plastic piece that the needle sits on has more of an angle on it, creating more tension on the needle. other than that, the interiors were Identical. I was to measure the coolant temperature independently and check the calibration of the new gauge. Thanks.


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## DubCorrado (Aug 7, 2009)

*Cam Identification*

Hey guys,

I found this cam lying around in the garage for some time and am thinking that this is a 268/260 cam from TT. Can anyone help verify this?

Hahaha yeah man bad, they screwed me over and changed a few things on me since. Here are the images.


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## Docherty99 (Sep 5, 2011)

You could measure the resistance of your coolant temperature sensors....the sensor uses resistance to determine the actual coolant temp(ex- 3000ohms= 32Degress). You would have to find a chart that tells you what the temperature is compared to the resistance. But this is a very accurate way to determine you actual coolant temp cause those dash gauges aren't very accurate.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

DubCorrado said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I found this cam lying around in the garage for some time and am thinking that this is a 268/260 cam from TT. Can anyone help verify this?


Flicker blows when it comes to uploading .. this cam ...


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## DubCorrado (Aug 7, 2009)

Ohhh yeah thanks man, yes sir, thats the cam Im trying to figure out which it is. I properly uploaded the other two images in my first original post for reference markings.


Thanks,
Mark


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## octo7076 (May 4, 2010)

*2013 GTI manual shifter*

Just got a new GTI last week. Just noticingmy shift knob turns to the left and right a little. I know I'm a bit paranoid. But just curious if its something to worry about. Don't want to sit at dealer all day for nothing.
Thnx in advance


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## 90corradoh'G60 (Jun 24, 2013)

*tranny problems*

so ive got a 1990 g60... already had to replace the bracket to the shifter with the gruvenparts one. the car already had "a little wear" on the second gear synchro from the previous owner. and now it almost refuses to go into first gear from a stop, second is VERY iffy, and sometimes it will slightly pop out of third. I have been ttold that sounds like an all internal issue, so ive decided to just swap out the tranny. 

think you guys could list the transmissions that would be able to hook up to my car?? im looking for all of them so I can decided what I want to do. thanks!:beer:


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

octo7076 said:


> Just got a new GTI last week. Just noticingmy shift knob turns to the left and right a little. I know I'm a bit paranoid. But just curious if its something to worry about. Don't want to sit at dealer all day for nothing.
> Thnx in advance


 I just got a new one, as well. You'll have better luck getting an answer in a forum other than "Corrado". By the way, you have a brand new car, you have three years or 36,000 miles to harass the dealership. I suggest you take advantage of it while it lasts.:thumbup:


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## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

*90 G60*

*Hi guys need some help from the experts. Here's a pic of the culprit plug in the driver side door.
*









*This whole wire loom has been replaced do to being fried and melted together.*









*Well I replaced that whole section plug to plug. Also followed the wires after the plug under the fuse box and all seems ok.*

 *The problem is when plugged in and key is turned the wires build heat. anyone no why? 
*
((I* have purchased the car this way and looking to repair it. Any help or thoughts will be appreciated.))* :thumbup::beer:


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## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

*fan crazy*

whats up guys been while since iv posted any thing...so just the other day if be having some trouble with my fan iv tried looking it up but i cant find much on google..so any ways the fan wont turn on while in traffic and the car get up in temp but here's the thing when i shut the car off pull the key out fan turns on and runs for about 30 sec then thats it.


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## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

G60Ron said:


> whats up guys been while since iv posted any thing...so just the other day if be having some trouble with my fan iv tried looking it up but i cant find much on google..so any ways the fan wont turn on while in traffic and the car get up in temp but here's the thing when i shut the car off pull the key out fan turns on and runs for about 30 sec then thats it.



G60 btw


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## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

G60Ron said:


> G60 btw


Is the fan sensor in the radiator good?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

scrapper said:


> *90 G60*
> 
> *Hi guys need some help from the experts. Here's a pic of the culprit plug in the driver side door.
> *


What component does that BL/W wire power? There's quite a few of those in the car. I can't find it in the wiring diagram.


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

Expertssss! (At work) 

How do you get around some pictures not loading on the vortex at work? Some pics will load for me, some wont. Is there a browser that is recommended for use? I am using firefox right now and its a 50/50 chance ill get to see pics in a thread.


Thanks!
Tim


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## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

mateok said:


> What component does that BL/W wire power? There's quite a few of those in the car. I can't find it in the wiring diagram.


Driver side door latch


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

scrapper said:


> Driver side door latch


Strange? My G60 is at work so I can't check, but the Bentley shows a three wire connector (no BL/W)








The Bentley's far from perfect so, I verify with Mitchell and...








Same thing... I have to go in tomorrow so, I'll check my door wiring. I can't say until I know how it's getting its power.


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## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

I did pull that section of harness from a parts car and it was the same. 

The 3 wire you may be looking at is the plug next to the one I'm holding and that goes to the door handle. 


Really appreciate the help, thanks. I'll check in here tomorrow.


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## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

1956dub said:


> Is the fan sensor in the radiator good?


I would think so b.c iv never had a prob with it be for. Why else would the after run work when I turn the car off?


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## CTCORRADOKID (Sep 24, 2003)

Best place to purchase a cog belt for my g60?

Mjm has one with a matching part number for like 4 dollars, while BBM and GAP seem to sell ones for $20...


Is there a major difference?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

G60Ron said:


> I would think so b.c iv never had a prob with it be for. Why else would the after run work when I turn the car off?


Because the after-run doesn't go through the radiator thermoswitch. It gets the signal from the ambient air thermoswitch mounted behind the valve cover. Jump the radiator thermoswitch harness connector. There's no downward spiral with that component. It can work one second and not the next.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

CTCORRADOKID said:


> Best place to purchase a cog belt for my g60?
> 
> Mjm has one with a matching part number for like 4 dollars, while BBM and GAP seem to sell ones for $20...
> 
> ...


The BBM and GAP belts are "HD". They're the widest belts you can get before having to do the conversion (12mm vs. stock 9mm). I've used both their belts (Contitech) and never had a problem. I can't comment on the MJM belt as I've never bought or seen one.


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## CTCORRADOKID (Sep 24, 2003)

mateok said:


> The BBM and GAP belts are "HD". They're the widest belts you can get before having to do the conversion (12mm vs. stock 9mm). I've used both their belts (Contitech) and never had a problem. I can't comment on the MJM belt as I've never bought or seen one.


:thumbup:


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

NUFF SAID ... Never knew they had this version. The next best thing to a wide belt kit.










Item Number:
120XL043293AG
Description:

On SALE! $5.00 off $24.99

Extra wide (12mm width) Direct replacement belt for your stock G60 G-Lader. BBM has commissioned the OE spec manufacturer to fabricate this heavy duty belt design. _*This belt expands the full width of the stock cogs for additional strength and piece of mind.*_

Please Note: There are off brand, non heavy duty tooth belts out there that you can buy. These skinny off brand cheaper belts are not nearly as good, strong or as tight of tolerance to HD OE spec tooth belts that we use. Why take chances with your precious g-lader!


----------



## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

*brakes*

hey guys, i have some problem with bleeding my brakes on the left rear i cant get any brake fluid to come out and i noticed that there is a puddle of brake fluid under the engine,
any help would be greatly appreciated


----------



## CTCORRADOKID (Sep 24, 2003)

petethepug said:


> NUFF SAID ... Never knew they had this version. The next best thing to a wide belt kit.


No kidding right!? Going with the BBM one...too bad really as I just ordered something else from them...


Think I remember a guy telling me you can't fit the cover if you go with a wider belt...any truth to this?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

CTCORRADOKID said:


> No kidding right!? Going with the BBM one...too bad really as I just ordered something else from them...
> 
> 
> Think I remember a guy telling me you can't fit the cover if you go with a wider belt...any truth to this?


That is a fact. You have to cut a notch in the charger bracket, as well.


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## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

Here's how I did mine.


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## DubCorrado (Aug 7, 2009)

Is it correct that the max boost a completely stock internal G60 block can safely handle is 20-23 psi? Is 24-25 psi pushing it a bit to harsh? I heard the stock rods and pistons are pretty ****ing bad*******, just wanted to verify how much is too much.



Mark


----------



## bunkkaws (Feb 7, 2008)

VWcorrado1994 said:


> hey guys, i have some problem with bleeding my brakes on the left rear i cant get any brake fluid to come out and i noticed that there is a puddle of brake fluid under the engine,
> any help would be greatly appreciated



if you look underneath the car on the rear axle beam, you will see a brake proportioning valve where all the brake lines run too (from the front) and out of (to the rear calipers).

If you look closely you will see it was a level with a spring attached

Take a piece of wood and a small jack and CAREFULLY compress the spring about 1/2 inch to an inch, and try again.

The front leak I have no idea, just trace the leak.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey everyone, it has been a bit since I posted. I went from corrado problems to dodge Grand caravan problems. (I had to rebuild the exhaust from scratch) So, my question is this. I am going to get different rims for my 90 G60 so I can get good all season tires that will allow my corrado to be my daily driver in the winter to. I currently have 205/50/r15 rims and it is impossible to find good all season tires for these. I found a set of good 195/60/r15 rims with the 4x100 pattern I have. I know that stock rims for the corrado are 195/50/r15. My question is will the rims I found that are 195/60/r15 fit? Thanks guys.


----------



## PinkFloydPerson (Feb 3, 2003)

Ok Rado' Gods, here's an A/C question for you. I have a 92' SLC that needs a new condenser. It's an R12 car. If I were to find a condenser from a 93+, which are all R134a, would I be able to use it on my car? Are the lines going to line up correctly? Are the threads different or anything goofy like that? A new receiver/dryer would be installed while I had the "new" one out. I'm just worried that after I go to the trouble of finding one that I'll find it won't fit, or that I'll need 93+ A/C lines, or that it won't bolt up to the radiator. Can anybody confirm if this will work or not?


----------



## G2Performance (Jun 4, 2007)

^ I used the newer on my 90 Corrado and all the original lines just swapped in the correct oil in the compressor I used a new expansion valve too which is a must anytime unknown or new parts are used. Vacuum it down real good too.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

CTCORRADOKID said:


> No kidding right!? Going with the BBM one...too bad really as I just ordered something else from them...
> 
> Think I remember a guy telling me you can't fit the cover if you go with a wider belt...any truth to this?


The incorrect way to alter your bracket for the BBM wide belt kit. I had a bolt come loose and it immediately broke the bracket and a bolt inside the charger. I saw a pic of another g-lader bracket altered in the manner and incorrectly imitated it.










*The results*









The CORRECT way to modify the bracket. A VW tech did this in '96. In 2011 it was powder coated silver and then powder coated with clear. It's the original bracket that came on the car in '90 and going strong since then.


----------



## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

I dont know if I have as wide of a belt or pulley as you do. Perhaps you can let me know?
Mine has been on without any issues for almost two years. My belt looks close to the mount in the pic but there is enough space.
If it is the same I don't understand the amount of aluminum that has been taken off in the pick. Also perhaps they have taken to much off on the one that broke and besides the fact the bolt came off.

I didn't need to take much off to fit at all as you did. I tried to keep as much on as possible to stay structurally strong. 












I did find out I do have a BBM power pulley:thumbup:


----------



## TrashWang (Jul 19, 2013)

What is the best oil for a 100k mile, Cammed VR6?
Right now I'm for Shell Rotella 5w40 full synthetic, Let me know what you guys think..
Also, has anybody used castrol 15w40 diesel oil? It's on sale, and I'm not trying to cut corners but it's $3.50 a quart, :laugh:


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Just remembered that the bracket was mod'd for the TEC twin belt set up on the GT-1. That was cool back then. Can't believe BBM took it further to innovate their wide belt kit.


----------



## mattrip (Sep 5, 2005)

CTCORRADOKID said:


> No kidding right!? Going with the BBM one...too bad really as I just ordered something else from them...
> 
> 
> Think I remember a guy telling me you can't fit the cover if you go with a wider belt...any truth to this?


I am running the wider 12mm belt designed to fit the stock charger timing gears without modifying the bracket or the plastic belt cover. My understanding is you only need to modify the bracket when going with BBM "Super" wide 19mm belt kit using different timing gears.


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

1956dub said:


> So my CPS checks out ok and the wires look fine. I've checked the hall sender with an led and it flickers properly. I've also checked the input to the coil and have a hall signal there. Then I checked at terminals 1 and 15 and had nothing.
> 
> I took apart my coil and the ignition control module looked discolored and had some type of oil or something oozing out. So I ordered one of those. I will let you know how it goes.


So it wasn't the ign. control module, nor the crank position sensor. It was the connection to the ECU just wanted to be unplugged and plugged back in. But it runs a lot better now (smoother) after new ignition. The old plugs were shot!


----------



## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey all, I just wanted to know if any one had any ideas about my question. I need to snatch those wheels up before they are gone. Thanks.


----------



## TrashWang (Jul 19, 2013)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Hey all, I just wanted to know if any one had any ideas about my question. I need to snatch those wheels up before they are gone. Thanks.


Yes they will fit, 195/60r15 is the tire size, they will be a bit taller, it is the wheel offset you would want to worry about. do you have more details about the rims and tires?


----------



## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Hey all, I just wanted to know if any one had any ideas about my question. I need to snatch those wheels up before they are gone. Thanks.


The numbers you posted are tire sizes not wheel specs. You need to know what the offset is. The tires are nearly identical but that does not matter


----------



## bunkkaws (Feb 7, 2008)

anyone deal with major slack in the throttle cable from swapping in a newer obd2 vr6 engine from a 1997 passat / jetta? Said car is a 1992 Corrado SLC

I removed the petal stop and the petal hits the floor, and there is still slack.

I even bought a new corrado throttle cable, swapped it in and the same thing.

even adjusting all the way out, I still have major slack.

Am I suppose to use a different throttle cable? Would it be OK to zip tie the throttle cable under the dash somehow to remove the slack? 

Thanks! Just want my WOT back :laugh:


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Call these guys and send your old cable to them. They should have a permanent solution to shorten your OE cable. This is the Co. that makes the HD G60 speedo cables.

SPEEDOMETER PLUS

LOS ANGELES CA 90066

TEL: (310)838-7350 / or toll free 1-877-900-9009 / FAX: (310)988-2581

Full service speedometer shop / Custom made speedometer cables


----------



## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

I see, what offset am I looking for that will fit. I found one with a +12 offset. Also what would be the best size rims to put on if I want a lot of tire options for all conditions (Summer, winter, Studded, and all season) Thanks.


----------



## kingof90 (Jul 14, 2009)

Mk2 jetta G60 need to know everything about rebuilding a G60 head I've hadent started yet but just wanted to see what vortex has to say about it. Things to watch for suggested bore mm, rings, pistons etc.. daily driver not s race car.


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Start by purchasing this:



drkreign said:


> I have a 90 G60 engine I pulled from my Rado to put in a VR6.
> 
> What all you get:
> It is the entire running engine
> ...


There's absolutely no better way to build a motor than one's that's been pre loved by another owner with skills. I've got yip's almost new 1.9L block, NoCYet port matched intake, exhaust and head spec'd out by Forrester Racing. Saved enough money to send all three to Derek @ Scientific Rabbit. SR took those same FR parts with their 18% better flowing head and 13% better flowing exhaust and up'd the numbers to 33% and 20% respectively. 

SR gave the stock G60 intake 25% better flow over stock while freshening up the head with a small stem valve kit, ti hardware and a TT 270 cam. Got a NEW, l/w clutch pack and pre loved NS short shifter while waiting for Derek to finish his magic at his shop in NY. Without buying pre loved in the classifieds all this swag would run an easy $9K parts and labor. After Stray Dog Garage labored the install with all the goods, grand total was almost $4.2K. Recouped about $500 of that back by selling the Autotech STG III kit, cam, fpr and some other goodies.

P-N-P, Labor , techtonics tuning (109 910T) kit & Ti componets for the head was a lot of the cost. Buy pre loved or go the route that G60 Carat went on his G60Jetta. I believe he ran a used J/G III 2.0 (ABA) block and a Jetta GX head with 8:5:1 instead of the normal 8.0:1 C/R. 

Good Info here too: *ABA* *G60* cheapo project.


----------



## bunkkaws (Feb 7, 2008)

petethepug said:


> Call these guys and send your old cable to them. They should have a permanent solution to shorten your OE cable. This is the Co. that makes the HD G60 speedo cables.
> 
> SPEEDOMETER PLUS
> 
> ...


Thanks man I appreciate it! I think I might know the issue but if I can't get it set right I will be giving them a call!


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

scrapper said:


> Here's how I did mine.


Function and form, nice work:thumbup:


----------



## TxJet98 (Jun 29, 2012)

Just replaced my door strikers, and noticed that the red wire pictured below is broken.



This is the number 2 wire going into the socket down inside the door:



What happens if I do NOT fix it? Does anyone know what that wire does? I'm guessing it is something type of feedback for the central locking system. Any suggestions on how to fix it?


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

The central locking control module won't turn on the vacuum pump and the door won't lock/unlock on its own. You can still do it manually, though. 

Repairing it depends on how much wire you have to work with. I would choose solder in that location.


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

DUBZAK said:


> For power locks, and the roll up feature while holding the key in locked position.
> 
> 
> chrisd1891 said:
> ...


There's also an electromagnetic switch. When the seat belt is all the way back, a magnet at the end of the belt pulls a sensor inside the door jamb. That little magnet is sandwiched in plastic. It's about the size of a pencil eraser and can been seen in the pic below on the seat belt latch finger that's flipping you off.

Found that magnet on a garage floor a couple of times. It was the source of the seat belt light staying on even though the belt was fully engaged. Found mine on the garage floor a couple of times.


----------



## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

where can i buy the hood cable release stop for the drivers side?


----------



## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

mateok said:


> Function and form, nice work:thumbup:


Thanks


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

petethepug said:


> *ABA* *G60* cheapo project.[/URL]


that reminds me of my ole 2L G60 Corrado build...I hated how the longer stroke felt with my longer gearing (VR6 1 & 2)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...Stock-g60-head-78mm-pulley-stock-chip-10-1-CR


----------



## AWESOME_G60 (Apr 24, 2011)

*what to do what to do?*

i have a 1990 g60 with good drive train, ive recenty replaced the head gasket and valvecover gasket. supercharger is good. close ratio trans installed, got the trans from a guy who's dad had the first corrados to come to the us and raced them( allegedly). the setbelts stopped working and the spoiler works with the switch but no longer goes up at 45mph. it will need a complete paint job. the car was tornado red, but in my younger years decided to SPRAYPAINT IT FLAT BLACK! i have had the car for almost a decade.its missing misc. interior peices and the seats are very rough. the headliner is sagging and i have tried to repair it mutliple times. i want to find a car to swap the engine and gearbox into. the car currenty will not start, it sat for 2-3 years in a garage and started up at any time, i brought the car to my body shop for bodywork and a paint job and it sat for one winter and i have a sinking feeling mice chewed some(or one) wires because i found some evidence of mice under the hood and in the cabin. my mehanical abilities are limited and lacking. suspension isnt a big deal, but not running cars is my fear along with electrical diagnosing. i dont trust the wiring in the corrado, i have always had electrical problems. the ecu went out at one point and i think it has a compatible jetta ecu. 

question is this: 

should i try to fix the corrado or swap the g60 into another car in better shape? what would be the best option for a car to swap the g60 into? will this be expensive if done at a shop? what from my corrado can i use? exaust? trans?radiator? breaks? i can get an 88gti with the engine in unknown condition due to the timing belt being broken while the guy was taking off from a stop. the interior looks pretty good. i think the corrado would be a great doner if i didnt need ALL the wiring. i guess im looking for a little direction and a lot of motivation. :beer: 



p.s. ive also tried to sell my g60 and start with a clean slate, but with no luck.


----------



## TxJet98 (Jun 29, 2012)

^ If you're not confident with wiring, then an engine swap will probably be a huge headache. 

That being said, I would swap the into a MK2 GTI/Jetta and part the rest of the car. That would probably be your best bet financially (other than just trying to fix the corrado).


----------



## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

I have a parts car I just purchased and I was told the supercharger was rebuilt. Does anyone know what this is written on the charger or the meaning? 










*10/323 SR* 

Thanks for yr thoughts /// Mario :thumbup:


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

scrapper said:


> I have a parts car I just purchased and I was told the supercharger was rebuilt. Does anyone know what this is written on the charger or the meaning?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 That's a factory marking. The Germans wrote all over the chargers during production. BBM will inscribe the customer's name on the housing. You'll have to open her up to know for sure. 

More writing:


----------



## CTCORRADOKID (Sep 24, 2003)

appreciate all the feedback on the g60 belt guys!


----------



## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

mateok said:


> That's a factory marking. The Germans wrote all over the chargers during production. BBM will inscribe the customer's name on the housing. You'll have to open her up to know for sure.


 Dang that cool it's still there all this time. Thanks for the info. :thumbup:


----------



## Arvex (Jun 26, 2013)

I'm planning on buying a Corrado VR6 in a few years and had a few questions to ask: 

-Does the engine compartment have room for twincharging? I've had a fascination with twincharging and wonder if this is a good car/engine to try it on. If not, does it at least have room for a turbo? 
-What would you say is the most frustrating part about maintaining a Corrado VR6? And, going off that thought, how difficult/expensive is it to find parts for it?


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

There's a lot of info in the forum but I've found it's easiest to Google the questions with vwvortex in front of the question. If it doesn't show up there click on the Google picture option and browse by pictures. Of course those pictures will take you right to the thread your looking for.

Would suggest running IE 9 to search the photos though. It allows you to preview the pics and captions instead of taking you to the page.



Open Internet Explorer.

Click the Tools







button (or click Help in the Menu bar), and then click About Internet Explorer.

Select the Install new versions automatically check box, and then click OK.


----------



## dfuze1 (Apr 15, 2010)

Im buying a used MK3 VR6 Golf Samco hose kit that Im planning to use for my Rado and I was told that kit is missing a hose I need. Can anyone chime in and let me know which one? thx in advanced


----------



## BlackenedPC (Jan 11, 2010)

Hi guys, I have a '90 g60 and my clutch just went and decided to stop working. I found I have a nice size leak in the rubber section of the hose between the master and slave cylinders.

I've only seen new Oem hoses and steel braided ones that are kinda expensive. Is this hose interchangeable with anything with an 02a? I was hoping to just be able to get one from the pick your part.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

BlackenedPC said:


> Hi guys, I have a '90 g60 and my clutch just went and decided to stop working. I found I have a nice size leak in the rubber section of the hose between the master and slave cylinders.
> 
> I've only seen new Oem hoses and steel braided ones that are kinda expensive. Is this hose interchangeable with anything with an 02a? I was hoping to just be able to get one from the pick your part.


 I'm still stuck at work so, here ya go. New would be the best option.


----------



## BlackenedPC (Jan 11, 2010)

Thanks so much man. If I can find a new one at a decent price ill definitely grab it. That part # really helps tho as my bentley doesn't list it. Looks like a lot of stuff on this car is just like a passat.


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

mateok .. he's like the Matrix, but for the Corrado.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

:thumbup:


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

petethepug said:


> mateok .. he's like the Matrix, but for the Corrado.


 Ha, yea unfortunately I took the wrong pill like most of us here. The Oracle always seems to have bad news for me


----------



## ajhvw93 (Oct 26, 2009)

^^You may have taken the wrong pill :thumbup: for being super helpful to people here:beer::thumbup:


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

*FV-QR*

Does anyone have an ecode connector part number? I am talking about the one that connects the harness to the light. Is there another 4 pin plug that will work?


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

ajhvw93 said:


> ^^You may have taken the wrong pill :thumbup: for being super helpful to people here:beer::thumbup:


 :beer:


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

turtledub said:


> Does anyone have an ecode connector part number? I am talking about the one that connects the harness to the light. Is there another 4 pin plug that will work?


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Where should I buy the "cooling bundle" that includes thermostat housing, pipe, lo temp thermostat,and gaskets? :thumbup: thanks guys 








is this worth the 190 bucks?
Where to guys?
Looking to buy the whole package as I'm having a little tiny leak around the thermostat housing.:thumbdown.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> Where should I buy the "cooling bundle" that includes thermostat housing, pipe, lo temp thermostat,and gaskets? :thumbup: thanks guys
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 This looks like a better deal to me:
http://www.germanautoparts.com/productdisplay/79928
Another $40 for the fan switch, thermostat, and you're still saving money.


----------



## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

*FV-QR*

Having an issue with my idle. Cold start, car idle fines till it warms up then when clutch pushed in the idle drops and doesn't even try and recover and dies. Check resistance on crank position sensor and it is good about 600 ohms. Checked ISV for resistance and it is a little low, should be 10-20 ohms, reads 9.5. Any other thoughts? The car is a 3L with BVH and 268 cams. I am running a GIAC chip but not for cams right now. 

Scanned and the car and I get my normal codes, EGR and air pump. 

One other thing, I can feather the idle down and get it to idle but not all the time. Once I restart the car it will idle as well.


----------



## onavarro8 (Oct 3, 2006)

2 questions: 

How do you remove the lower bumper grill? I see the bumper has these things that the grill clips onto but I can't take it off. 

Also where can I get ecode plug connectors/ cables?


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Pull the bumper off the car and set it on the grass or a couch, You will need to remove the brackets. Then grab a couple of flat screwdrivers and or butter knifes and start unclipping the grill. Be patient 

for the plugs:http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ss-sources&p=82717335&viewfull=1#post82717335 


mateok said:


> You can get a better price elsewhere. Just to show it's available.:thumbup:


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Some pics of the backside of the bumper and grill from a discussion about grill openings and towhook covers:


----------



## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

hey is there another way to fasten the bumper skin? 
i dont want it to fall of while driving 
here is what it looks like for most of these


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

VWcorrado1994 said:


> hey is there another way to fasten the bumper skin?
> i dont want it to fall of while driving
> here is what it looks like for most of these


 OEM is long gone. Spoonfed to the rescue!
http://www.spoonfedtuning.com/collections/corrado/products/corrado-bumper-clips


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

mateok said:


> OEM is long gone. Spoonfed to the rescue!
> http://www.spoonfedtuning.com/collections/corrado/products/corrado-bumper-clips


 Best solution, period.


----------



## JJEETTAA (Aug 15, 2012)

ok so a have 01 jetta revo stage 1, when i first got my tune i was able to boost 18psi and hold them, so i went with a fmic and after that i havent been able to hold more that 14 psi, i checked for leaks and nothing came up,*things i've tried:disconnecting wastegate hose still 14 psimanual boost controller (parallel, series, by itself) still 14 psiadded springs to the waste gate actuator rod still 14 psi*cranked wastegate still 14 psi*stiffer spring on dv (forge 007) 14 psii dont really know why trying all of these things i wont past over the 14 psi if anybody knows how to fix this please let me know, i dont have any codes either.


----------



## dmanny19892 (May 7, 2013)

*universal radiator fan*

First off if anyone has a Bentley for fairly cheap let me know. OK 

My radiator fan took a sh*t. so i put and aftermarket universal. Fan turns on normal temps. My problem is that when i turn the car off it'll stay on. maybe 7 or 8 min. (thought that was normal) even with the old fan it"ll do that. the strange part is that it will turn back on after the first cycle stops. maybe 15 min after first cycle stops. it might be my wiring that's throwing me of. the fan has 2 wires blue and black(power is black..(says it on the fan) the car has 3 wires, brown(ground) red/black and red/white. I would assume one is low temp and the other is high temp. (don't know which is which) now i have both red/white and red/black connected to black(the fan says that's power). I am sure that's my problem so which wire red/white or red/black to i hook up to the fan power.


----------



## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

i dont think thats the problem 
some of those clipped in but others are like the one in the pic 
is there another way to fasten the bumper or is the only way with those clips?


----------



## mo 665.5 (May 10, 2012)

*Nuespeed Corrado*

So guys any help would be cool I tried searchin no luck. So i already own a 92 silver Corrado and found a 92 Nuespeed Corrado in local Craigslist. Went and looked, its unmolested as far as I can tell. 
Its badged Nuespeed under Corrado badge on crash panel in rear also has Nuespeed 17" silver 5 spoke wheels. And a Nuespeed front strut bar. Anyone know anything about this? Thanks in advance.


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

mo 665.5 said:


> So guys any help would be cool I tried searchin no luck. So i already own a 92 silver Corrado and found a 92 Nuespeed Corrado in local Craigslist. Went and looked, its unmolested as far as I can tell.
> Its badged Nuespeed under Corrado badge on crash panel in rear also has Nuespeed 17" silver 5 spoke wheels. And a Nuespeed front strut bar. Anyone know anything about this? Thanks in advance.


 It's a badge, set of wheels and a strut bar. The neuspeed car had custom leather seats, steering wheel and matching shift knob. It had 16" wheels and is owned by a vortexer.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

G60ING said:


> It's a badge, set of wheels and a strut bar. The neuspeed car had custom leather seats, steering wheel and matching shift knob. It had 16" wheels and is owned by a vortexer.


 :thumbup:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4010375


----------



## mo 665.5 (May 10, 2012)

Thank you


----------



## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Ok, a little annoying problem. I have a puddle of fuel in my trunk coming from the fuel pump access point, and I can't stop it. I replaced the gasket and that stopped it for a little while, but now it is back. The large black nut seems to work itself loose a little or something. Any thoughts/steps on disassembly and assembly procedure so I can see if I messed something of would be helpful. Thank you.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

^ Do you have the fuel pump lined up correctly? 








That ring needs to be tightened (beat with a hammer and big flathead screwdriver) until it won't move anymore. I'm sure you don't have the special tool but, hand tightening is not enough.


----------



## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Yes, I followed the Bentley on the lining up procedure, and I used a hammer and screw river to tighten it. The problem is the ring would pop loose if I tried to tighten it too much. And you are correct, I do not have the fancy tool. Thanks for the help, any other thoughts?


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

That kind of sounds like the retaining ring has been cross-threaded. How do the threads look?


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

I typically alternate areas on the ring that I tap. You might want to grab a new ring or at least a used one from the junk yard. Also maybe you are cross threading it? I like to spin it backwards until it feels square.


----------



## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey mateok, the threads look pretty good for plastic threads. G60ing, what other VW's in a junk yard have a compatible ring like this. Thanks for the help all.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

You have plenty to choose from. 
94-96 Cabby
92-98 EuroVan
99-07 Golf
94-06 Jetta
91-05 Passat
82-88 Quantum 

321 201 373A - Union Nut. VW cost is $3.45 + 19% = $4.11. I wouldn't shlep around a junkyard for a five dollar part.


----------



## astroboy93 (Aug 12, 2013)

*Battery drain HELP*

92 VR6 Corrado 
If car is left sitting for a week or so the battery dies. 

With doors closed and key out of ignition the draw is 25 mA, normal. But after i open and close the door the draw goes up to 119 mA and doesnt come back down. Im thinking power seatbelts? Becase i pulled all the fuses one by one and none changed the draw


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

astroboy93 said:


> 92 VR6 Corrado
> If car is left sitting for a week or so the battery dies.
> 
> With doors closed and key out of ignition the draw is 25 mA, normal. But after i open and close the door the draw goes up to 119 mA and doesnt come back down. Im thinking power seatbelts? Becase i pulled all the fuses one by one and none changed the draw


 Disconnect the negative cable on your battery, then put your voltmeter between the unhooked cable and the negative battery post. Now start pulling your fuses and when the draw goes away, you've found your bad circuit. From there you have to actually look at the wiring in that circuit and find out what is wrong. It's probably your seatbelts.


----------



## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

I don't suppose someone could give me a step by step of how they changed the gasket on the fuel sender in the access port. I did it myself a month or two ago, and it is leaking again, and the gasket is trashed, it doesn't even fit in right anymore. I can only assume I did something wrong. In order to avoid making the same mistake I could really use a step by step from someone who has successfully done this before, and had it last more than a month. Thank you.


----------



## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

After falling victim to while-I-am-in-there-syndrome, I figured I should check out my fuel pump as I have experienced the car running out of gas with a quarter of a tank left or more. I took these pictures, and, as this is the first fuel pump I have ever seen, I would like some input on how it looks, and if/should I clean it, and how if so. Thank you all for the help.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Oh, mama! An original Pierburg in the usual state of disarray. That thing is wasted. I can't believe the car was even running with the filter full of rubber rot like that. 

A replacement VDO is available however, you're going to struggle finding the correct sending unit. There's a ton of threads covering it. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6051761-fuel-pump-sending-unit-question


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

My clusters odometer stopped lighting up? My numbers are still there and it does work except it doesn't light up. Is there any way I could fix this? Thanks guys :thumbup::beer:


----------



## whos_jonny (Nov 11, 2008)

*Tricks to removing G60 intake manifold?*

Tricks to removing G60 intake manifold? 

I have loosened the bolts holding it in place from the top end/turbo end and removed the hoses. Now onto the 6 main bolts on the back. Can I do this with just a 6mm allen? There isn't really a lot of room back there and I can't see what I'm doing. 

Btw I'm only doing this so I can get to the exhaust header to replace it with a non-leaking one.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

The trick to removing the intake manifold is plenty of patience. First you have to find the bolt with your finger. Then find it again and insert the Allen (I would use a socket). Then attach the ratchet. There's three long (80mm) and three short (50mm) bolts. You have to suck up the pain and don't strip the Allen bolt. Take a break if it starts going sideways on you.


----------



## whos_jonny (Nov 11, 2008)

thanks for the quick reply 

I was looking at it from underneath and it is amazing how the exhaust header blocks the bolts to the intake manifold and vice versa.:screwy:


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> My clusters odometer stopped lighting up? My numbers are still there and it does work except it doesn't light up. Is there any way I could fix this? Thanks guys :thumbup::beer:


 http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1626084-MFA-Display-Light-Out


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

whos_jonny said:


> thanks for the quick reply
> 
> I was looking at it from underneath and it is amazing how the exhaust header blocks the bolts to the intake manifold and vice versa.:screwy:


 Yep, it's no fun. I would suggest looking at pictures of both so you have a better idea of the bolt's locations. A ratchet has a difficult time with some of them. You'll need to get creative with the middle one's. the exhaust manifold is cake after the intake is removed:thumbup:


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Thanks again mateok!!! 

I love you man:beer:


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> Thanks again mateok!!!
> 
> I love you man:beer:


 :beer: I'm not sure what this MFA is out of, I think a Corrado, but it should have a bulb on the back, regardless.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Don't you just love this guy ^^^


----------



## mk_ultra (Jan 31, 2009)

I have a question regarding intake manifolds and throttle bodies.

I want to put an obd2 shrick intake manifold on my 92 corrado vr6. I know the throttle bodies don't line up and require modifications. I am wondering if there are any adapters that allow for an obd1 throttle body to connect to an obd2 manifold?


----------



## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

blackslcchild said:


> Don't you just love this guy ^^^


Pretty much, very helpful indeed!


----------



## whos_jonny (Nov 11, 2008)

*Replacing G60 Headers*

Replacing G60 Headers...

I'm at the point where I'm disconnecting the exhaust headers from the exhaust manifold. I removed the 17mm bolts and now am I supposed to just pry it off? It's stuck on there really good. Any tips?


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

whos_jonny said:


> Replacing G60 Headers...
> 
> I'm at the point where I'm disconnecting the exhaust headers from the exhaust manifold. I removed the 17mm bolts and now am I supposed to just pry it off? It's stuck on there really good. Any tips?


Those six nuts are all that hold it together. If you haven't undone the cat, the exhaust might be exerting force on it. Just smack it with a hammer, it'll come apart.:thumbup:


----------



## whos_jonny (Nov 11, 2008)

yeah I might have explained that poorly, but it's off now. hammer worked. All off and no bolts/nuts stripped or broken so I'm pretty stoked. Time to order gaskets.:beer:


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

I knew what you were talking about, been there myself. Now's a good time to gasket match that poorly cast manifold:beer:


----------



## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

I've decided its time to repair the dreaded heater core before winter, I bought my Corrado bypassed and its been on my list of things to do. I've heard there're better replacements to use which are metal instead of crappy exploding plastic. Is there a thread about this somewhere or could someone give me some pointers in the right direction? I want to do this right.
Thanks guys.


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

jaweber said:


> I've decided its time to repair the dreaded heater core before winter, I bought my Corrado bypassed and its been on my list of things to do. I've heard there're better replacements to use which are metal instead of crappy exploding plastic. Is there a thread about this somewhere or could someone give me some pointers in the right direction? I want to do this right.
> Thanks guys.


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?t=2689700


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Jeffery678 said:


> alright, my turn. The spoiler is starting to act up;


Need more info on the problem. The spoiler can let you down in several different ways. Switch, circuit, controller, motor, gearbox, etc. "act up" I would assume means it's still working. You might need to clean and re-grease the gearbox.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I'm waiting for my car to cool down at the moment (I'm doing the thermostat, switch, water pipe, and whole housing) and I have a question regarding the gaskets. Do I need to put any silicone sealant to any of the parts or are the gaskets enough? 








I'm thinking a thin layer of black or blue?


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Unless the aluminum is pitted on the gasket mating surface, you don't need any. Top Tip: don't over tighten the bolts, 7 ft lb is snug with the ratchet head in your palm.:thumbup:


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

God is good!!!

Hopefully when I finish everything will be OK.:thumbup:


Thanks for the heads up mateok


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

OK, so I'm a little confused.
I put everything in order and filled the reservoir to the max level indicator. I let the car run for 10-15 minutes to let all the air bubbles out. No dice, fans kicked in three times and the reservoir did not overflow......?

I then let it sit for ten minutes and did the previous procedure along with massaging/ squeezing the hoses. Still no overflow on the reservoir but I squeezed the hoses and no more bubbles? 

What should I wait for or?
I would like to get rid of all the air:thumbup:


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## jettag60 (Nov 2, 2005)

can someone please tell me which plug (at the fuse box) is responsible for the power windows

i've got most of the fuse box plugs out and i'm just trying to get my windows back up and closed :banghead:

thanks


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

jettag60 said:


> can someone please tell me which plug (at the fuse box) is responsible for the power windows
> 
> i've got most of the fuse box plugs out and i'm just trying to get my windows back up and closed :banghead:
> 
> Thanks


y2 & d9


----------



## VR-SICK RADO (Nov 17, 2010)

I am replacing the rear wheel bearings on my 92 SLC, along with new 11" rotors (X-drilled / Slotted), pads, and adding SS lines. Does anyone have a DIY link I could use as a reference, I have the Factory Corrado Manual, and I am somewhat mechanically inclined, done small stuff like, fuel pump, ignition coil, Rpm sensor, tune-up/maintenance, etc.
Thanks


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## jettag60 (Nov 2, 2005)

mateok said:


> y2 & d9


thank you


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Good signs?
Fans kick in at 190°.
Coolant Temperature stays at 195°.
No boiling in the reservoir.
Oil temperature stayed at 220° 
All in a 116° degree weather.

I took off the distributor when swapping the coolant pipe and junk.
I did manage to see the plastic guide rail.....it looks great.

Eventually within these months I'll change the whole timing chains and clutch.( feels good and it sounds good, not a "marbles in a can" sound whatsoever)


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Ah, beautiful Phoenix. Loved it when we had to work out there since shorts and Hawaiian shirts were allowed. Used to keep the black car covered with the windows and sunroof cracked. 15 min b4 end of shift looked outside the upstairs window and used the remote start to let the a/c cool the worst of the heat out. My buddy had a/c in his garage because the cars would heat soak the rest of the house. Keep in mind the garage a/c was only to cool it down to 80*.


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## VR Vote (Sep 26, 2005)

A guy I work with is selling an autotech strut bar for a mk3. 

Would this thing fit the corrado? He's willing to sell it cheap. If just test fit it but the car is 45 Mins away and he seems hesitant to bring it to work and let me just take it without paying him.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Your banner says Corrado g60 ---> VRT. If you still have the Mk II G60 control arms the Mk III will not work. The VR Corrado (6 cyl Mk III) cars & G60 Mk II (4 cyl Mk III) bars are shaped differently. If you've updated to *Mk III 6 cyl* control arms, a Mk III Autotech *will* work.

The Mk II Autotech hollow bar and end links is below. This is the complete set up for a Mk II without a sway bar but still works for the G60 or Mk III 4 cyl cars.









The Mk III Auotech bar will only work on Corrado VR6 and Mk III VR6 G/J. Its bar has a hole drilled through the bar. The end links are attached to the bar with the stud and nut below. 









Unlike the G60 bar that's attachment hardware is mounted through a hole in the control arm with bushings on both sides, the Corrado VR6 bar is bolted to the control arm via a downward tab at the *back* of the control arm.

Look at your sway bar and see how it's attached to your control arm. You'll get your fitment issue solved in a blink.


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## VR Vote (Sep 26, 2005)

Thanks for all the info. Very helpful with some questions I had. I think you just explained the difference in setups for sway bars though. Unless I'm mistaken.

I still need to check out all of this, as I bought the car w work done to it prior. So I'm unsure what all the p/o had accomplished w swapping between models.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

What motor & lug set up are you running?


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

petethepug said:


> Your banner says Corrado g60 ---> VRT. If you still have the Mk II G60 control arms the Mk III will not work. The VR Corrado (6 cyl Mk III) cars & G60 Mk II (4 cyl Mk III) bars are shaped differently. If you've updated to *Mk III 6 cyl* control arms, a Mk III Autotech *will* work.
> 
> The Mk II Autotech hollow bar and end links is below. This is the complete set up for a Mk II without a sway bar but still works for the G60 or Mk III 4 cyl cars.
> 
> ...





petethepug said:


> What motor & lug set up are you running?



I think OP was talking about strut bars, NOT anti-roll bars...


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Boo yea! He wuz. Thnx.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

The Golf MKIII is 557mm tower to tower. 
The Corrado is 542mm tower to tower. 
Both measurements from the strut shaft center point. I don't know if you can get 15mm of adjustment out of it or not.


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## VR Vote (Sep 26, 2005)

The car is a g60 chassis. It's getting a mk3 vr6.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

CamberKraut1.8t said:


> The car is a g60 chassis. It's getting a mk3 vr6.


The G60 and SLC measurements are the same. I don't know for sure but, I would guess the same applies for MKIII's. someone smarter than me will have to confirm that.


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## zhemel (Apr 23, 2005)

Doing a non abs swap on my g60. Need to know the location of were people are tapping into the intake manifold to get vacuum?

Thanks


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

The line will jump out and grab you in this picture.


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## zhemel (Apr 23, 2005)

G60ING said:


> The line will jump out and grab you in this picture.


Sure did. Thank you. I wonder what is using that tap now. I will have to take a look at my mani and see if I even have that nipple there.


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## George683 (Aug 24, 2013)

appreciate the help good sir, I'll be asking a lot of questions when it comes time for the motor swap I have planned haha.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

zhemel said:


> Sure did. Thank you. I wonder what is using that tap now. I will have to take a look at my mani and see if I even have that nipple there.


Its there, Its routed over to the evap. system that isn't in the picture  on your car it just has a small 3mm vacuum line going to the firewall on the driverside.


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## whos_jonny (Nov 11, 2008)

*Fumes*

I just finished replacing the headers on the G60, which meant new gaskets on the exhaust manifold, intake manifold, and throttle body. Start up the car and I have gray fumes rising up from near the intake manifold. At first I thought exhaust leaking from the exhaust manifold due to the area and smell, so I checked while the car was running and I can't say I saw anything leaking there. It's something I hadn't noticed in the past but I haven't really driven this car much- just garage furniture mostly. 

Oh and also while the car is up on jacks and idling, the driver side front wheel is slowly turning forward- is that normal?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

whos_jonny said:


> I just finished replacing the headers on the G60, which meant new gaskets on the exhaust manifold, intake manifold, and throttle body. Start up the car and I have gray fumes rising up from near the intake manifold. At first I thought exhaust leaking from the exhaust manifold due to the area and smell, so I checked while the car was running and I can't say I saw anything leaking there. It's something I hadn't noticed in the past but I haven't really driven this car much- just garage furniture mostly.
> 
> Oh and also while the car is up on jacks and idling, the driver side front wheel is slowly turning forward- is that normal?


That sounds like stuff is just burning off. I spray all kinds of products on things while attempting to take them apart. Then I spray and apply more stuff while assembling them. All that junk starts burning off when the engine gets hot. After a couple heat cycles it should stop. If not, start retracing your steps. 

The wheel spinning is perfectly normal. With the car running, the transmission input shaft is spinning. That's churning the oil around and causing the output shaft to spin. It's basic fluid dynamics, nothing to worry about.


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## whos_jonny (Nov 11, 2008)

you da man mateok. thanks I really hope that's the problem. I sprayed wd-40 around the header bolts and such. I was actually starting to think though that I put the intake manifold gasket on backwards. As you can see it is not symmetrical. 
http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_page=popup_image&pID=558

I put the tall part to the driver's side. does it matter? I wasn't paying attention to that when I took it off.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

How ironic, I just finished rebuilding a friends head and ran into that exact problem. Apparently VW dropped the original intake gasket (it doesn't have that big loop over the 3 runner). I had to do a little trimming to get it to fit properly.


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## whos_jonny (Nov 11, 2008)

haha ok well I guess I don't have to worry about that then. if the smoke doesn't clear up within a couple runs then I'll revisit the issue but man it feels nice to have a running corrado. hopefully it isn't short-lived.


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

Can somebody please tell me if these are the same from a mk2 to my 91 g60. Also I'm trying to find some, two driver side and one passenger side. Thanks in advance!! I'm also looking for a pair of the caps that go on the rear hatch hinges on the exterior. 

David


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

The part numbers cross reference to pretty much every MKII up to 1992, save the Passat. The right hinge cover cap is still available: 535 853 720 01C. The left: 535 853 719 01C is NLA. VWCP shows the left available if you want to go that route.


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## VR Vote (Sep 26, 2005)

PASSAT MOONROOF question:


Does anyone have pictures of all the parts layed out that you need for swapping a passat moonroof over to the rado?


I have mine in but my buddy says I'm missing something. Doesn't know what it's called and either do I. It's a guard or flap or something. Sounds retarded but its been months since I installed it. The car isn't running so I can't ops check it. But the car is torn apart so I can get to it easily. I can get pics tomorrow if need be. 

I looked for a parts break down but found only the DIY. I can't tell when I'm missing due to most of the pictures of the install being from 6" away. 

His is the only thing stopping me from installing the rest of the interior Before I deploy. 

Thanks.


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## edocdog (Sep 17, 2010)

CamberKraut1.8t said:


> PASSAT MOONROOF question:
> 
> Does anyone have pictures of all the parts layed out that you need for swapping a passat moonroof over to the rado?
> 
> I have mine in but my buddy says I'm missing something. Doesn't know what it's called and either do I. It's a guard or flap or something.


I'm not sure what you mean by parts layed out, but the whole assembly get swapped and is a direct replacement. Just the wiring needs to be set up for your current model and adjustments for the glass when open/close.


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## VR Vote (Sep 26, 2005)

Hmm. I must have installed it properly then. All I did was pull out the rado's metal panel & pulled the passat glass out of that frame & did what was necessary to install it. 

It's flush with the roof opening I can see a little gap but when it rains and its poured a few times. It doesn't leak. So I dunno. I'll see if I can see any screw/bolt holes pointing me to obviously missing parts.


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

mateok said:


> The part numbers cross reference to pretty much every MKII up to 1992, save the Passat. The right hinge cover cap is still available: 535 853 720 01C. The left: 535 853 719 01C is NLA. VWCP shows the left available if you want to go that route.


Thanks so much for your help bud!!

Cheers,

David


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## VR Vote (Sep 26, 2005)

He Figured out what it was i am missing after looking in the mk3 diagram just for a reference the moonroof is actually for a passat. B4/5 I believe. 

Number 3. Is a rain tray. I should have one for the passat. But the guy didnt have it in the car when I bought it. The passat moonroof pcs were just in a pile in the trunk so I assumed I had everything. 










In its place I have the corrado's rain tray. But it doesn't allow for the installation of the upholstered slider. 

(Rusty section)










So basically I need the part in the first picture. So I can install the rest of my interior. :/

Now to find someone who's willing to sell me just that pc.


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## zhemel (Apr 23, 2005)

G60ING said:


> Its there, Its routed over to the evap. system that isn't in the picture  on your car it just has a small 3mm vacuum line going to the firewall on the driverside.


All the vacuum lines on this car are a mess. Looks like th po just tied them in a knot . Oh let the vacuum line sort out begin. 

Should I just snip the old ABS lines and pull them out through the fire wall towards the engine bay? Is it best to cut the ABS computer harness out and pull?


----------



## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

I searched many areas and dug in many part out forums to no avail! 

*Anyone have a g60 front engine mount bracket for sale? My car is a 90 and manual if that makes a difference. PM me and PayPal ready
Thanks, fellow Corrado owners.* :thumbup:


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## whos_jonny (Nov 11, 2008)

*back for more*

So I took it for a test drive and to put some gas in it since the gas is over a year old now:facepalm: and there is a horrible grinding noise coming from the driver side front wheel the whole way (about 3/4mi). The cv boot is torn but it appears to be a fresh tear. I took the outer boot off today and the thing still has plenty of grease in it. So my question is: why so much grinding? It was even grinding at a stop. I guess I'm asking if I should assume the CV joint is bad- not just the boot.

Also, I'm having trouble getting the cv joint off the axle. I'm hitting the outside while avoiding the cage, but it isn't budging. Should I take the half axle all the way off?


----------



## deemee (Aug 7, 2011)

NO Start Issue: 92 SLC Distributor Motor, Stock 

Dropped my car off for paint and it comes back not turning over. It will crank but no start. Also no fuel, no spark, no RPM on the tachometer.

Before while I was driving the car it would struggle to start. I would have to try about three times in the morning to get it going. This went on for a month or so. Then the car sat for a couple of months. I tried to start it once after I changed the coolant and it started right up. 

So far I have replaced the crank sensor, ignition coil, ignition switch, ECM relay, tried a working fuel pump relay(167) from my gti, bought another ECM harness and tried out my buddy's ECM with the code that matches mine (021 906 258 P). 

After doing a couple of pin outs the only thing that seemed abnormal was the wire from the coil to the ECM. showed a constant voltage and i believe it is supposed to pulse. (reason why i bought a new coil)

I plan on trying a different ECM with a different letter at the end but I doubt that both of ours are bad

Any suggestion to help out would be appreciated.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

whos_jonny said:


> So I took it for a test drive and to put some gas in it since the gas is over a year old now:facepalm: and there is a horrible grinding noise coming from the driver side front wheel the whole way (about 3/4mi). The cv boot is torn but it appears to be a fresh tear. I took the outer boot off today and the thing still has plenty of grease in it. So my question is: why so much grinding? It was even grinding at a stop. I guess I'm asking if I should assume the CV joint is bad- not just the boot.
> 
> Also, I'm having trouble getting the cv joint off the axle. I'm hitting the outside while avoiding the cage, but it isn't budging. Should I take the half axle all the way off?


Are you sure it's the CV joint? There's a few other things that would cause that type of noise. Wheel bearing, bent dust shield, sticky brake caliper. What do you mean by grinding at a stop?

Use a big, sand filled plastic mallet to hit the CV joint. If its not off by now...


----------



## bunkkaws (Feb 7, 2008)

just did the passenger tie rod boot last night on a ZF rack.

It was easy until I had a hell of a time putting in that "pressure regulator hose" nipple into the boot.

Took lots of cussing but I finally got it.

Anyway, question is....

WTF is it for? I get that it's self explanatory "pressure regulating", but looking in the Bentley it doesn't even attach to the rack. It's just a flared brake hose that goes from one tie rod boot to the other.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

bunkkaws said:


> Anyway, question is....
> WTF is it for? I get that it's self explanatory "pressure regulating", but looking in the Bentley it doesn't even attach to the rack. It's just a flared brake hose that goes from one tie rod boot to the other.


It's only purpose is to move the air displaced from one boot to the other as you turn the wheel. Since it's supposed to be an air tight seal, it has to go somewhere when it's compressed. Most Corrado owners have leaky boots so, it's not needed anyhow


----------



## mattrip (Sep 5, 2005)

Are the transmission to engine block alignment sleeves "dowels" necessary? Searching has provided no information other than a part number: 014301153

If needed how many are required? (2)?

92' G60 Corrado manual 02A. Asking because upon tear down I was only able to locate one and it was damaged.


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## whos_jonny (Nov 11, 2008)

mateok said:


> Are you sure it's the CV joint? There's a few other things that would cause that type of noise. Wheel bearing, bent dust shield, sticky brake caliper. What do you mean by grinding at a stop?
> 
> Use a big, sand filled plastic mallet to hit the CV joint. If its not off by now...


I just meant that while I'm sitting still and the engine is idling it is still making that grinding noise (which makes sense since you told me about the transmission input shaft). Grease was sprayed around the inside of the wheel, and the boot had a large tear in it. I think the shop that did my alignment about 2 miles ago might have torn it because that huge tear appeared all of a sudden. I was just concerned about the noise since there is still plenty of grease on the joint. I'll replace the boot and go from there I guess. I'll take the brake caliper off and on too, since I think it's rubbing slightly when I free-spin the wheel. Any way I can check if the wheel bearing is bad while I've got it broken down?

As far as hitting the CV joint, I think I'm gonna wait until I can take the whole half-axle off. I'll have the special tool this weekend. Then I can hit it without having to worry about hurting the connection point.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

mattrip said:


> Are the transmission to engine block alignment sleeves "dowels" necessary? Searching has provided no information other than a part number: 014301153
> 
> If needed how many are required? (2)?
> 
> 92' G60 Corrado manual 02A. Asking because upon tear down I was only able to locate one and it was damaged.


I always replace them because they either get damaged or lost when working on the block. They only cost a couple bucks each. I would imagine the aggravation of trying to bolt the transmission on without them would be worth the cost. There aren't a lot of bolts holding that thing on to begin with.


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## bunkkaws (Feb 7, 2008)

mateok said:


> It's only purpose is to move the air displaced from one boot to the other as you turn the wheel. Since it's supposed to be an air tight seal, it has to go somewhere when it's compressed. Most Corrado owners have leaky boots so, it's not needed anyhow


Thanks mateok! :beer::beer:

Next time I am just going to enlarge the hole for that hose then and leave it be. It would be cake if I weren't laying on my back under the car trying to get "push power" at ridiculous angles with a hose I can only grab with needle nose pliers.


----------



## corrado-g60 (Aug 13, 2013)

*Oil Pressure?*

OKay guys, I have a 1990 VW Corrado G60, nothing aftermarket yet on it.

I have done a full tune up on it, put a new oil pump on, new fuel pumps both in tank and the external one. it has a new 140 amp alternator on it. For the oil im running 20w-50 full synthetic. 75k miles, no leaks. 

I have hooked up a mechanical oil pressure gauge to it, and im running about 25 (@idle) on the gauge, i was hoping if anyone could tell me whether this is good or not.

I was also wondering what the idle RPMs should be at, the car is running about 900-1,000.

Thanks in advanced!


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

corrado-g60 said:


> OKay guys, I have a 1990 VW Corrado G60, nothing aftermarket yet on it.
> 
> I have done a full tune up on it, put a new oil pump on, new fuel pumps both in tank and the external one. it has a new 140 amp alternator on it. For the oil im running 20w-50 full synthetic. 75k miles, no leaks.
> 
> ...


There are many variables to consider when throwing out oil pressure numbers. I've seen some threads with just bad information provided. VW supplies numbers in the event certain conditions are met. Those are based on the high pressure, low pressure switches, and at 2000 RPM. As long as you're within those, your oil pressure is considered "normal". 

The testing procedure for the switches is quite extensive. You'll find the instructions in section 17.1 - engine, lubrication system. There's no mention of idle oil pressure, but the alarm will sound if it drops below 1.4 bar (20 psi). 

You should see a minimum of 2.0 bar (29 psi) at 2000 rpm's with a minimum oil temp of 176*F when the test begins.


----------



## sg.giffin (Jul 25, 2009)

Just going to jump in here out of the blue and redirect y'all to take a look at the thread that I've got going.

Some answers to my questions would be very much appreciated!

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5542230-CDM-1993-VR6-Corrado&p=82920601#post82920601


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Paul689 said:


> alright, my turn. The spoiler is starting to act up; has a tough time going up or down, and gets stuck some times.
> 
> Oakley Sunglasses


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3085588-Another-spoiler-motor-cleaning-repair-thread!


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## zhemel (Apr 23, 2005)

Okay Got the vacuum lines all hooked up on my non abs install. But now the rpms go up when I step on the brakes. :screwy:


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

zhemel said:


> Okay Got the vacuum lines all hooked up on my non abs install. But now the rpms go up when I step on the brakes. :screwy:


That's not cool. RPM's go up when outlaw air enters unmetered. How are you supplying vacuum to the booster? Did you use something similar to the OE setup?


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## zhemel (Apr 23, 2005)

mateok said:


> That's not cool. RPM's go up when outlaw air enters unmetered. How are you supplying vacuum to the booster? Did you use something similar to the OE setup?


I pulled a brake booster vacuum hose off a mk3 golf. I extended the line coming off the plastic valve. The line is a little big were it connects to the intake mani. I checked and couldnt feel any air coming through it. :banghead:


----------



## zhemel (Apr 23, 2005)

The mk3 line had a strange blue cap in the end of it


----------



## thumpergtivwr (Apr 19, 2012)

*mk2 speedo head*

im more of a mk1 person and not real familiar with the difference between a ce1 and a ce2 cluster or whether it is for a mfa cluster or not, please help tryin to sell a brand new 120 mph head in box with receipt from dealer.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

zhemel said:


> The mk3 line had a strange blue cap in the end of it


This is how it was routed from the factory.


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## roccospeed (Jan 18, 2001)

Dude, you seem like a genius.

any chance you could point me in the right direction at this stage?
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6126527-Diagnose-this-please!-Possible-head-gasket


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hello, I have a couple of questions. First I have a vacuum leak that is causing a high initial Idle, and a little bounce, as well as slightly affecting my brakes, it may also be what is keeping my vent selector from telling the air where to come out. I believe I have narrowed it down to the little rubber T-hose that connect to the intake manifold, and supplies vacuum to the brakes, MFI, and A/C. This little T-hose is on fairly sad shape, but I do not have a part number, and I cannot find a replacement. My questions are does this sound logical, and where can I find a replacement/part number for this thing. I have replaced a number of the vacuum lines, and I have lessened the leaks significantly, put a few problems mostly while the car it cold persist. Thanks.

My second big question is How do these Corrados perform in the snow with good snow/all season tires tires. I have Kuhmo street racing tires, and they are obviously terrible in the snow. I wanted to ask everyone how theirs perform in all kinds of snow. My Corrado is my daily driver, and I live near Denver so I will not see terribly deep snow, but I still want an estimate of what to expect. I appreciate the input, I am new to Corrados, so I obviously have a lot to learn, but I am learning. I have also found out the meaning of the Love/Hate relationship with a Corrado. thanks again guys.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

That little hose is called a "reducing piece". It was dropped without replacement on 01/01/2012. It's now available through VW Classic Parts. The part number is 037 133 783 C. My parts department was able to find me one about a year ago at a dealership in North Dakota. They didn't even know they had it. I was told that was the last one but, I've heard that a million times about Corrado parts. 

I drove my G60 around Europe when I was stationed there in the early '90's. I was less than happy with the way it drove in the snow. The back end seemed wander about for no apparent reason. I found a full tank of gas seemed to help, though.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Thank you for the part info. This looks like it is going to be fun to find and replace. I can see that happening, and helping with the Corrado in the snow. A question, just for a complete picture, did you also have good snow tires on your back wheels when it was wandering in the snow? thanks. Maybe I will start a thread about this, because I want a lot of feedback from a lot of different people so I can have a clear picture of what to expect in the snow with good tires. Thank you again for the info though.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

It had the OE Pirelli P600 shoes. I would imagine proper snow tires would improve things considerably.


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## mooz (Nov 21, 2010)

I live in Estonia and we have very snowy winters. With proper tyres, i use studded winter tyres always in winter. Corrado performed good in snow and slippery. Summer tyres are BS in snow. Even 2-3mm winter tyres are better than new summer tyres, in snow and on ice.


My g60 has fuel smell in cabin when cabin blower works. But only when hot. Havent seen no leakage. Heard that this is common problem?


----------



## corrado-g60 (Aug 13, 2013)

*Rear and Front shocks/struts?*

Heya guys, so my first question is, what is the difference between shocks and struts? id like to get that right so i dont sound stupid. 

2nd-I need new shocks/struts in the back. what is a good brand and type, my father told me i should get a more heavy duty type, would that be more of a racing type?

3rd-what would be a good clutch kit? as for brand and type. i want something that can take a little more beating considering im still learning to drive a stick(on my 3rd day and i love it). Also i want it to last, good quality. My father also told me i should get a stage 2 racing clutch. my dad works on cars more than i do, so everything i say for a while will be "my dad" lol 

I have a 90 vw corrado, 75k miles. i just destroyed two new tires because of the bad shocks.:banghead:

Thanks for the help, in advanced.

Corrado boy


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Thanks for the response mooz, by the way with regard to the fuel smell, check the fuel pump access port in the trunk. The gasket could be leaking a little. When it first started on mine, I thought the smell only occurred when I turned on the blower, but it eventually became an all the time thing. I hope this helps.


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## sg.giffin (Jul 25, 2009)

zhemel said:


> I pulled a brake booster vacuum hose off a mk3 golf. I extended the line coming off the plastic valve. The line is a little big were it connects to the intake mani. I checked and couldnt feel any air coming through it. :banghead:


So I am looking at by break booster as well and towards the end there are two smaller lines and not the large plug?

Looks similar to the lines that are attached from the vacuum pump off the intake.

Ideas?


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

*Mystery Part??*

I found a strange sort of threaded rubber plug on the back of my battery tray yesterday while I was cleaning it up. I feel foolish for being unable to figure out where this goes, and it does look familiar, I just can't place it. Can you guys help me out? Thanks!


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

That's your transmission plug. It will be under the dizzy on a vr.
Or by the shifter tower area. Look for the hole and put that back. 
(The hole is there to find the timing marks on the flywheel)


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

That's the dynamic timing hole cover. Move all the junk aside that's covering the top of the transmission, you'll see a hole, cover it with that.:thumbup:

-the only stupid question is the one that's not asked-
^ you came in while I was typing, didn't mean to step on you.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

No worries, I never knew that plug had such a fancy name


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Not sure what makes that thing erupt from the Corrado belly like an alien. I find mine in the bay somewhere every couple of years.


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

Thanks everyone! That was pretty simple, my new concern is how rusty (and dry!) the gears look in there... does this mean I should be adding or changing the fluid?? There's always been a little cable-chirp when I shift gears, maybe this is why?


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## jettag60 (Nov 2, 2005)

that's the flywheel, not the gears



my own question: what harness/circuit/plug is the outside air temp sensor on a 91 g60? is it in the engine harness?


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## G2Performance (Jun 4, 2007)

jettag60 said:


> that's the flywheel, not the gears
> 
> 
> 
> my own question: what harness/circuit/plug is the outside air temp sensor on a 91 g60? is it in the engine harness?


It's with the engine harness. G2/02 white/red and the ground is G1/01 brown/white


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## jettag60 (Nov 2, 2005)

G2Performance said:


> It's with the engine harness. G2/02 white/red and the ground is G1/01 brown/white


damn, i'm doing a 1.8T conversion and am getting a prefabed ce2 to mk4 harness...could i add the wiring to the ce2 portion of the harness then i guess?? just pull the wiring/pins from the corrado harness and insert them into the plug and play harness?

also do you know if that is the same wiring for the mk2's with mfa?


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

Finally I have a question.. 

My G60 starter just died :banghead: and I have to work for the rest of the week.

What other starters are compatible with a g60 one? I mean, passat? mk3 2..0? 
I got a feeling that if I ask for corrado anything on pepboys im gonna get raped and or they wont have it..


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

xtremevdub said:


> Finally I have a question..
> 
> My G60 starter just died :banghead: and I have to work for the rest of the week.
> 
> ...


Mk4 tdi, mk3 tdi mk42L mk4 20v

The newer cars have a different starter solenoid wire.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

G60ING said:


> Mk4 tdi, mk3 tdi mk42L mk4 20v
> 
> The newer cars have a different starter solenoid wire.


 Awesome, any of those are gonna probably be cheaper and more available than a corrado one :thumbup:

When I tried to start the car, smoke came from under the dash and burn wire smell came out.
it has done that before and after a while it would start. 
I never had a chance to figure out properly what it was until I tried jumping the starter and is a dud. :sly:

so now when I just came back to push start it, it would not start. 
I got a feeling I burned a fuse. Any idea which to look for?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

xtremevdub said:


> Awesome, any of those are gonna probably be cheaper and more available than a corrado one :thumbup:
> 
> When I tried to start the car, smoke came from under the dash and burn wire smell came out.
> it has done that before and after a while it would start.
> ...


Hmm, that's not a good smell. There's not a lot to check to be honest. The R/BK starter wire goes from the starter into the fusebox at F/1 (engine, white), does a non stop tour and comes right back out at H1/1 (steering column, red) into the ignition switch. 

I would follow that R/BK wire. If you smelled that smell, you'll see some physical damage. There's no fuse protecting that circuit.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

xtremevdub said:


> Awesome, any of those are gonna probably be cheaper and more available than a corrado one :thumbup:
> 
> When I tried to start the car, smoke came from under the dash and burn wire smell came out.
> it has done that before and after a while it would start.
> ...


If a fuse burned out you would have lost functionality. If so look at the manual and you lost functionality to the fuse circuit functions. 

If its a wire you will need to use nose and eyes. 

Make certain the replacement starter is from a manual transmission. You can also get starter from any 4 cylinder 5spd passat 1990-1997.

Good luck


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

All fuses are good, and the starter started working again. :screwy:
Thats the reason why I could never diagnose the starter being bad before. I almost think that when is hot, it doesn't wanna crank. This morning is cranking. I am buying a new one anyways.
Last night even jumping it to the battery, it would not move.

I checked some relays and put a new ignition switch. Nothing.
I can smell fuel, but I got a feeling that my ignition coil is faulty. When you wet it, the car wont start.

I have a new one but I had no time to change it  gotta leave to work. 
To be continued


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

jettag60 said:


> that's the flywheel, not the gears


Thanks, I was premature to post because I was already sitting here, after going out and actually starting the car I quickly learned. And I found the origin of the chirp :thumbup:


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## Strictlyapathy (Jun 2, 2012)

I read somewhere that the CTS is used on cold start until operating temperatures to measure CT. Once at normal operating temperature, the car uses the o2 sensor instead of the CTS. If the o2 sensor is bad, it defaults back to the CTS for CT and fan use.

1. Is this true?
2. Would a bad o2 sensor + unplugging the CTS contribute to overheating?

Reason I ask... my car's idle hunts slightly and the temp guage light comes on, and stays on, but the analog guage reads normal during idle and driving at all speeds. Fan also comes on when it's suppose to. However, when I unplug the CTS, the engine emits faint smoke/vapor and starts to overheat within 20-30~ seconds. Once plugged back in (CTS), the fan will kick on if it's overheating and cool things down to normal temps.

I just did a G11 -> G12 coolant flush/swap and there are no air pockets. I also recently replaced the A/C harness and left the compressor unplugged. Everything else (aside from a G/W, R/W that's apparently from a later date harness... no idea what it's for) is plugged in and working correctly.

I ordered an OEM spec o2 sensor just in case ($20, good deal). The car has unknown mileage since I believe the cluster was swapped sometime in the past (sits a little uneven in the dash and when the headlight switch is flipped, portions of the guage don't work).

Any and all suggestions/advice/solutions are greatly appreciated and awarded with e-beers. :beer:

edit: The CTS was replaced (**** Duralast but still less than 50 miles old) when I purchased the car from the PO.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Those two sensors don't really hand off to each other when one gets tired, per say. Upon start up, the ECU checks that all the Digi sensors are ready to go (o2, Hall, knock, coil, fuel and Digi relays, Co pot, etc.). If one or more fails a plausibility test (the ECU says "that's not possible, I'm ignoring you") it's signal is replaced by a stored fixed value. 

The CTS handles injector duration until the car reaches operating temperature. It's not however, 100% in control that entire time. It's "authority" is systematically reduced as other sensors chime in. By the time the car is fully warmed up it's control over the injectors is relegated to fuel enrichment for boost purposes only. It also handles ISV and fan after-run duties on the side (a little spending cash to keep it happy). 

So, to answer your first question, no, it's running off a set map in the event of failure. Unplug the CTS while its running, it'll go into service mode operating at a "presumed" 140*F engine temp (rich). 

Neither the o2 sensor or CTS control the fan (after-run, yes, car off) If the car is overheating, that would the thermoswitch. The car will be running pig rich with either of those two sleeping on the job. That would contribute to higher engine temps. The fan should be able to handle it unless you're driving long distances. You'd be in limp mode so, I doubt that. 

I don't know why unplugging the CTS effects your radiator fan operation? It's signal goes straight to the ECU. Unless its using the after-run signal from the CTS to trigger the fan? I'm sorry, I'm thinking as I'm typing. How hot does it get before the fan comes on?


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

I had a quick question, everyone says that when there is a lot of oil in the intercooler tubes, it means the charger seals are leaking, and could do with a rebuild. How do you define a lot of oil? I have some, enough that if I hold it at a sharp angle, it collects against the lip of the tube. Is this too much? I am just curious what a definition of too much entails, what I have, or enough to pool up and spill out, which I don't have. Thanks.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Any ideas yet, I know my question is kind of vague, if pictures are needed I can post them, but I just wanted a general opinion of how much is considered "too much", and how much is considered a "misting". Thanks.


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## G2Performance (Jun 4, 2007)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Any ideas yet, I know my question is kind of vague, if pictures are needed I can post them, but I just wanted a general opinion of how much is considered "too much", and how much is considered a "misting". Thanks.


When my seals went out I had dripping out of the tube and oil collected in the outlet silencer when taken off it pretty much poured out but this was shot seals. Now after a rebuild the tube where it rises near the radiator where I check it only has an oil film inside not really dripping out. Sounds like yours is not that bad if it was you would be using a quart every 500 or so miles too.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Thank you G2performance. I recently had to remove that tube from the silencer so I could get to the front engine mount underneath. The oil really didn't drip out at all, there was enough to slowly gather if I held it at an angle, but it never really dripped out. Thanks again for the reply.


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## Strictlyapathy (Jun 2, 2012)

This question should be quick and easy: are the VR6 and G60 upper radiator supports interchangeable? I tried searching through swap threads but no luck. Only stuff about B3/B4 swap parts.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

Strictlyapathy said:


> This question should be quick and easy: are the VR6 and G60 upper radiator supports interchangeable? I tried searching through swap threads but no luck. Only stuff about B3/B4 swap parts.


yes :thumbup:


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Does this look ok? This is the tube right after the supercharger. Do I need to be considering a rebuild soon? Thanks.


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## Strictlyapathy (Jun 2, 2012)

So, could I keep all of my G60 parts and mount the VR support up. Really the only thing that would change would be mounting the grille and maybe(?) headlight, right?


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

Yes.. you may* need a vr grille. You don't need vr headlights at all. 
You can keep yours . Vr debadged grills are easier to get anyways. 
Again, double check on the part you putting in. Maybe is one of those that have holes for the vr and g60 grills.


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## Strictlyapathy (Jun 2, 2012)

xtremevdub said:


> Yes.. you may* need a vr grille. You don't need vr headlights at all.
> You can keep yours . Vr debadged grills are easier to get anyways.
> Again, double check on the part you putting in. Maybe is one of those that have holes for the vr and g60 grills.


So, I have an upper rad support currently on my G60 that's bent pretty bad on the lip portion that runs below the headlights. I'd like to run a badged VR grill without zip ties or messing with the tabs. So basically, I want to keep all of my stock parts but switch to a VR rad support and use a badged VR grill. I'm assuming from the previous responses, this is completely doable.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

VR grill in G60 rad support just needs to have a few new slots cut through the sheet metal. Duplicate the shape of the g60 slots where the VR grill needs to mount. No big deal. I like the bigger louvers vs the checker board G60.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

petethepug said:


> VR grill in G60 rad support just needs to have a few new slots cut through the sheet metal. Duplicate the shape of the g60 slots where the VR grill needs to mount. No big deal. I like the bigger louvers vs the checker board G60.


Exception being if it is a later G60 core support. Then it has slots for both grills.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

*It fits that way IF you break off the center tab the VR grill.*


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

petethepug said:


> *It fits that way IF you break off the center tab the VR grill.*


And late G60 core supports have 5 placement holes to accommodate both grills without having to break off tabs.


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## Strictlyapathy (Jun 2, 2012)

So my assumption is correct then. I'm looking to replace both the grill and rad support but wanted to go with a VR badged grill. If getting a VR support so I won't have to break tabs and such is easier, then I'll just do that. Unless a rad support from a G60 is cheaper... seller dependent. Thanks for the info!


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Strictlyapathy said:


> So my assumption is correct then. I'm looking to replace both the grill and rad support but wanted to go with a VR badged grill. If getting a VR support so I won't have to break tabs and such is easier, then I'll just do that. Unless a rad support from a G60 is cheaper... seller dependent. Thanks for the info!


Or you can elongate the side holes and add a center hole for the VR6 grill in your existing rad support. No busting up a grill.


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## Strictlyapathy (Jun 2, 2012)

TheBurninator said:


> Or you can elongate the side holes and add a center hole for the VR6 grill in your existing rad support. No busting up a grill.












My current rad support... g60 grill was cracked through in two spots pretty bad with 2 broken tabs and a bunch of zip ties. Tossed it out, fixed the hood as well.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

If this is about replacing the radiator support find the one specific to the G60 or VR. 

535805591B/C is VR6
535805591A is G60

EKTA shows it as a stocked part right now for both. Doesn't mean jack though. About $800 a pop. If you use a VR radiator support on a G60: the radiator, condenser and filter/dryer wont line up correctly without mod'g it.

The later (535805591C) universal version must have some way to fit the G60 radiator and a/c parts correctly. Find a good used support specific for your car. Get it right, do it once. 

Shawn nailed it in this thread: 
*What is the main difference between a G60 Core Support and a SLC Core Support???*

Frank got it here: 
*upper radiator/core support vr6 vs. g60*









*One version.*

*







*

*The other version. This is what I run on my G60. It was repaired from an accident in 94. So not sure of which is which.*


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

I'm kinda worried about the oil in the inter cooler tube being that color. I don't know if any one saw my post, but it is on pg. 251. I put in a boost gauge, and I registered 10 or so PSI at 6k RPM in third gear. I did not bounce off the rev limiter though, and I have a stock pulley. Is this all ok? thanks. BTW I just have a Stage 1 Chip.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

ArchAngel4 said:


> I'm kinda worried about the oil in the inter cooler tube being that color. I don't know if any one saw my post, but it is on pg. 251. I put in a boost gauge, and I registered 10 or so PSI at 6k RPM in third gear. I did not bounce off the rev limiter though, and I have a stock pulley. Is this all ok? thanks. BTW I just have a Stage 1 Chip.


A perfect charger should put out around 1Bar so, you're a little down on boost. 10lbs wouldn't worry me though, as far as damage is concerned. I drove one making way less than that for years before having it rebuilt. 

Have you cleaned all the hoses, pipes, and intercooler? There will always be oil in the plumbing and it has nowhere to go. In other words, how old, and how long has that oil been in there? You seem concerned about this so, do your part and clean everything first, then check for excess oil:thumbup:


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## Strictlyapathy (Jun 2, 2012)

petethepug said:


> If this is about replacing the radiator support find the one specific to the G60 or VR.
> 
> 535805591B/C is VR6
> 535805591A is G60
> ...


Thanks man, this post was a bullseye. I was probably searching for the wrong keywords when looking around because these two posts didn't come up. I guess I'll go with a VR support in prep for VR lights and a VR grill. That flush looks good.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey mateok, thanks for the response. I am not terribly worried about the oil in there, from what I understand there will always be a misting of oil going in, and as long as it is not large quantities I am fine. What had me concerned, was the oil was silvery in color in a few places, and seemed to have tiny flake of metal in it. Next weekend, I and going to pull the intercooler and tubes and thoroughly clean them, as well as the air filter. Thanks again for the info, you seem to be one of the most knowledgeable on the forum.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

I've seen that silvery oil before with mine. I'm just guessing here but, maybe the Kluber grease has a hand in that? That little bit of metal, was it shiny metal or dull, like magnesium?


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## G2Performance (Jun 4, 2007)

When you get the cooler off for cleaning don't be surprised or maybe you should be if you find some apex strip pieces in there. That will tell you a lot.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

The little bits of metal were very hard to see. The silvery oil was kind of hid the metal from me. I actually just drew my finger through it, and it felt gritty a little. Thanks.


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## Jani7Bray (Sep 9, 2013)

I will make it my goal to go to Texas next year, and maybe canada if I get rich and lucky real fast.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

I applaud your enthusiasm Jani7Bray, but I am curious what is it that makes you want to go to those place so soon? I wish you luck though, and if you figure out the secret to being both rich and lucky real fast, could you tell me. I have been trying for years :laugh: . regardless, good luck.


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## mattrip (Sep 5, 2005)

Hoping the experts can help resolve this slave cylinder issue.

Problem: Slave cylinder will not install due to the “piston rod” making contact with the clutch release fork. Measuring from the slave cylinder mounting ears to the end of the piston rod the rod sits out 1.5”. However this is an inch too much.

Hopefully the pictures below can better describe the problem.










*Bottoming out on release fork with an inch to go:*


















My setup:
Rebuilt PG block with stock crank.
Stock 02A G60 transmission
Stock G60 Flywheel
VR6 228mm Sachs OE Clutch and Pressure Plate
New Sachs throwout bearing

Edit: Slave cylinder is the original for this G60 has been sitting for two years uninstalled.

Wondering if the piston rod on the slave cylinder is the issue, or if the problem is with the flywheel/clutch setup. 

Can anyone confirm how much the piston rod should set out on the slave cylinder when in its relaxed position? Please advise on what is causing this issue.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

That's a good looking gearbox:thumbup: that slave cylinder doesn't look right. Is that part of the seal on the shaft? Can you compress the shaft? After two years of sitting, it might be full of rust and seized. 

Any brake fluid left in the cylinder would literally suck the moisture out of the air. It doesn't take a lot of rust either considering the cylinder/piston tolerances.


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## mattrip (Sep 5, 2005)

That is the seal in the pic pulled out and laying on the shaft. Is it supposed to be inside?. 

I cannot compress the shaft any further. Should the shaft compress into the slave cylinder almost flush? When pushed in as far as it will go there is an inch and a half of shaft still out of the cylinder.

Thanks!


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## mattrip (Sep 5, 2005)

Here is a pic of the slave cylinder removed. 

Can you confirm that the piston and rod assembly should be able to press into the cylinder further than this? This is as far back as it goes so maybe the piston inside is seized.










Ordering a new one tonight, however I would like to verify that this is the issue with bottoming out on the release fork to confirm I don't have a clutch assembly issue. With the slave cylinder installed I could not get the gearbox to mount flush with the block due to the throwout bearing pressing on the pressure plate. Removed the slave cylinder and *wham* it went together.

This car has been off the road for eight long years, so reassembly is tedious...


----------



## mo 665.5 (May 10, 2012)

*door mirrors*

So you guy's have always been a big help so far so here we go. My 92 slc is from Iowa and now in Colorado any ways a little rust here and there. So some jackwagon dicked up my drivers door mirror in a parkin lot. no biggie i buy some used ones to repair the damage. I can get the front screw out but the rear one is givin me grief. rust Im sure, my idea is to drill head off of screw and use vice grips on whats left. i have soaked with wd-40 any thoughts, thanks in advance


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

mattrip said:


> Here is a pic of the slave cylinder removed.
> 
> Can you confirm that the piston and rod assembly should be able to press into the cylinder further than this? This is as far back as it goes so maybe the piston inside is seized.
> 
> ...


That slave cylinder is junk. It should go all the way in.


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## mattrip (Sep 5, 2005)

mateok said:


> That slave cylinder is junk. It should go all the way in.


Thanks Mateok! That puts my mind at ease. Did not want to have to pull the gearbox back out...


----------



## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

I'm selling this ecu and someone wants to know if it has a performance chip in it. My question is does this this computer appear to be stock or does it have a performance chip?

This is the 1st time I ever opened one up and dont know what I'm looking at.

Thanks for your help.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

It appears the tamper proof paint is still intact. That can be reapplied so, it's not a slam dunk. I would feel comfortable buying that as "un-chipped". Just open it up if the buyer is so concerned. That paint means nothing.


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## GLI-Friand (Feb 17, 2012)

Hi, I am looking into buying a 93 SLC with a 2.9L that has all the paper work to show when it was rebuilt. The body and interior look to be in great shape. What are some areas to pay attention to for these cars when looking at buying one? Any advice for this car would be appreciated


----------



## khkhm3 (Jan 14, 2007)

*Help with door glass sliding support*

Where you glow it whin the window down or up or what


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

khkhm3 said:


> Where you glow it whin the window down or up or what


I hope that was translated from another language. I think your windows have stopped working? Check the fuse. It's located above the fusebox, relay position 21 (power windows), 20A.


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## khkhm3 (Jan 14, 2007)

I arady change the window regulator


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

GLI-Friand said:


> Hi, I am looking into buying a 93 SLC with a 2.9L that has all the paper work to show when it was rebuilt. The body and interior look to be in great shape. What are some areas to pay attention to for these cars when looking at buying one? Any advice for this car would be appreciated


The area to pay attention to is the search button, this gets asked several times a week. For hardcore people alls we want is a good shell with good paint and body panels. Engines, transmissions, suspensions, brakes and interior parts can always be replaced. Typically enthusiasts take better care of their cars. Buying modded cars can be cheaper in the long run if the major mods you will want to perform have been done. Paint, eurolights, suspension and wheels add up fast. Then add in eurobelts, brakes, Timing chains, clutch, cooling system parts, charger rebuild and your wallet will be empty. Have fun


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

hey guys, couple little things:

when i turn my steering wheel there is a scraping noise coming from directly behind it, under the plastic housing....thoughts?

unrelated, but when i take off, accelerate quickly, or brake hard, there is a clank, like something shifts, around the front right wheel area...is it the axle?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

jewnersey said:


> hey guys, couple little things:
> 
> when i turn my steering wheel there is a scraping noise coming from directly behind it, under the plastic housing....thoughts?
> 
> unrelated, but when i take off, accelerate quickly, or brake hard, there is a clank, like something shifts, around the front right wheel area...is it the axle?


Take the clamshell apart. There's a couple connectors under there that handle the stalks. Sounds like they've gone maverick. The metal strip for the horn could be causing it, as well. 

That clunking sound could be any number of things. Bad bushing(s) is usually the cause of that. Is your power steering rack leaking? That fluid likes to run down onto the control arm and eat the bushings.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

jewnersey said:


> hey guys, couple little things:
> 
> when i turn my steering wheel there is a scraping noise coming from directly behind it, under the plastic housing....thoughts?
> 
> unrelated, but when i take off, accelerate quickly, or brake hard, there is a clank, like something shifts, around the front right wheel area...is it the axle?


1)Take the steering wheel off and lube the horn contact ring.

2)could be anything from a bad motor mount, bad bracket, control arm bushing, bolt missing or something else. You need to investigate, look at the control arm bushing at the rear of the control arm, rock the engine, if you don't find anything take it to a professional mechanic ASAP since it could be a major issue the endangers you or others on the road.


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## TrashWang (Jul 19, 2013)

So I ran into a wall here :banghead:, There's 2 loose wires in my center console.. A white(gray)/blue and a brown... Could anyone point me in a direction to find out where they go.. I Have looked at the connectors and I think no wires are missing, I could double check.. I also followed them back and they just goes into the firewall.. Any pointers?

Heres a picture of the bastards, For those of you who don't know what wires are..


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

GY/BL is used most often to power illumination (bulbs). Brown is always used as a ground. There's obviously a lot of those wires populating the car. If I had to guess; wires for the rear ashtray bulb?


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## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

I have decided to delete the charcoal canister and cap off the front part of intake and side of intake. 
My question is the one hose that looks like it goes from the fire wall to the bottom of the vacuum actuator.











I know it can be capped. Instead of capping it cant I just plug it into or behind the intake bottom vacuum line instead of plugging it as shown by blue hose in pic? 
What are you thoughts?

Thanks for your help :thumbup:










In this pic there was a different hose which I removed per the diagram. The only vacuum hose left is this blue one from the firewall. Instead of capping it and left to hang why not plug it in the spot as seen in the pic?

If it makes any difference the car has ABS.


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

mateok said:


> Take the clamshell apart. There's a couple connectors under there that handle the stalks. Sounds like they've gone maverick. The metal strip for the horn could be causing it, as well.
> 
> That clunking sound could be any number of things. Bad bushing(s) is usually the cause of that. Is your power steering rack leaking? That fluid likes to run down onto the control arm and eat the bushings.





G60ING said:


> 1)Take the steering wheel off and lube the horn contact ring.
> 
> 2)could be anything from a bad motor mount, bad bracket, control arm bushing, bolt missing or something else. You need to investigate, look at the control arm bushing at the rear of the control arm, rock the engine, if you don't find anything take it to a professional mechanic ASAP since it could be a major issue the endangers you or others on the road.


Thanks. 
Anybody in NJ ( central/east) recommend a particular mechanic, or somebody who just knows their stuff and would help work for a little cash, because I refuse to go to the dealership but definitely want my baby checked over.


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

And now. Someone slammed my door and the window popped off the brackets. This has happened before, but this time was a bit different. The window fell loose inside the door but this time the little knobs on the cross arms were in the 'window up' position and are now frozen there. If I try to move them with the switch they move less than an inch and the inside metal frame of the door swells out. I pulled the window back up essentially jamming it against the knobs just so the window wasn't wide open but even when no contact is being made the brackets don't move. Ugh


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Dude, take the door panel off and fix it. There's nothing about that window regulator that isn't NLA, including the jammed up rollers.


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

mateok said:


> Dude, take the door panel off and fix it. There's nothing about that window regulator that isn't NLA, including the jammed up rollers.


Door panel is off and I've been trying to help things move but it won't budge. The arms don't move more than a millimeter and I haven't seen anything that they are stuck on.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

jewnersey said:


> Door panel is off and I've been trying to help things move but it won't budge. The arms don't move more than a millimeter and I haven't seen anything that they are stuck on.


There are two access holes in the center of the inside door at the very top which allows access to two bolts where you can detach the window from the regulator assembly and help you figure out what's going on. Window has to be completely up to get at them.


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

Assuming you mean these. And the bolts are already out... LOL. 

I think that if I were able to remove the Window there wouldn't be any pressure being applied to the regulator arms and I could roll it down


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

So the glass wasnt even secured to the regulator? and irregardless if glass was bolted in to not, that is a motor driven regulator so you cannot move it by hand at all, unless of course the motor wasn't attached to the assembly


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

Well looking in the Bentley.. I have a completely different regulator. It is possible that it was replaced by the PO. 

But regardless, through lots of shoving and trying to take the pressure off the Window, The regulator eventually went down and I was able to put the knobs back in the rollers.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

So is it working? And if you can spare the expense, A1 Electric sells a great kit for the corrado

http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=50-54060


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

HavokRuels said:


> So is it working? And if you can spare the expense, A1 Electric sells a great kit for the corrado
> 
> http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=50-54060


Works now. And yes! That's the kit that I have! Only issue I'm having is the perpetual dislodging of the knobs from the rollers when the door gets slammed.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey, my steering wheel now needs a nice replacement. The leather is disintegrating off of it, and it feels gross and sticky to the touch. I came across this wheel locally. http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/4068071708.html Is this a good deal? I haven't heard of this before, does this guy know what he is talking about? Thanks guys.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

jewnersey said:


> Works now. And yes! That's the kit that I have! Only issue I'm having is the perpetual dislodging of the knobs from the rollers when the door gets slammed.


I wonder if there is a fix? BTW that's an awesome regulator set to own :beer:



ArchAngel4 said:


> Hey, my steering wheel now needs a nice replacement. The leather is disintegrating off of it, and it feels gross and sticky to the touch. I came across this wheel locally. http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/4068071708.html Is this a good deal? I haven't heard of this before, does this guy know what he is talking about? Thanks guys.


That's an excellent deal for that euro wheel


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Thank you Havok.

Now, I have a issue that has been stumping me. when I first turn on the engine in my 90 G60, the RPMs jump to around 1250 to 1300 idle. then after I back out of my garage, and drive a little down my street, the Idle becomes almost rock solid at 1000. Then after about a 1/4 to 1 mile of driving, it varies, the idle will either drop down to 800 or so and bounce up to 1200/1100, then stabilize at 800, or drop down solidly to ~800. (~= approximately for clarification) Then after the first mile, the idle will pretty much stabilize at 800, with no fluctuations, or drop quickly to 1000 before slowly sinking to ~800 and becoming stabile. Now, there are less often times where I have been driving for a while, and the idle drops a little below 800, before going back above, then stabilizing. 

There are also very rare times in which the idle will surge right after I start driving with a cold engine. In these cases, the surge will momentarily go above 2500, before going back to the "normal" start idle. This usually only happens once, and my boost/vacuum gauge needle swings wildly between 8-12 inhg of vacuum. Other wise the gauge reads between 10 to slightly over 11 inhg of vacuum during idle with no swings, despite what the tach is doing. 

I replaced some vacuum lines, and the blue CTS, as the majority of the symptoms only happen when it is cold, and it is still doing it. I also did an idle tune according to the Bentley, and that made things a bit better, but not perfect. 

I have another question. When my G60 gets down to below a half tank, especially when it is near 1/4 tank left, the car will bog down, on acceleration, or going up a hill. This happens especially when going up a hill. My question is, could the fuel filter be causing this. I have been meaning to change it, as the PO did not provide any records on service or modification to this car and I don't know when it was last changed. Also, my gauge was reading just over a quarter of a tank left, and I filled it up, and it only took 8 or so gallons. What is up? 

Thanks for the help guys, and I apologize for my long windedness, I am just trying to be as descriptive as possible. Everyone here is always so helpful, I appreciate the help with my car. The car is great, and fun to drive, but the engineers should have attended a materials of engineering class, before designing it. It would have turned out so much more stabile.


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## TrashWang (Jul 19, 2013)

mateok said:


> GY/BL is used most often to power illumination (bulbs). Brown is always used as a ground. There's obviously a lot of those wires populating the car. If I had to guess; wires for the rear ashtray bulb?


Wow, thanks so much. I had to check and was pretty amazed, great guess. :thumbup::thumbup:


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

TrashWang said:


> Wow, thanks so much. I had to check and was pretty amazed, great guess. :thumbup::thumbup:


Yea, that whole blind squirrel thing applies:beer:


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Thank you Havok.
> 
> Now, I have a issue that has been stumping me. when I first turn on the engine in my 90 G60, the RPMs jump to around 1250 to 1300 idle. then after I back out of my garage, and drive a little down my street, the Idle becomes almost rock solid at 1000. Then after about a 1/4 to 1 mile of driving, it varies, the idle will either drop down to 800 or so and bounce up to 1200/1100, then stabilize at 800, or drop down solidly to ~800. (~= approximately for clarification) Then after the first mile, the idle will pretty much stabilize at 800, with no fluctuations, or drop quickly to 1000 before slowly sinking to ~800 and becoming stabile. Now, there are less often times where I have been driving for a while, and the idle drops a little below 800, before going back above, then stabilizing.
> 
> ...


The idle going to ~13-15000 rpm when the car is first started is due to a properly functioning ISV. All cars have an increased idle when cold. Your's sounds sporadic, though. I would check the ISV per Bentley... and the wiring. Those wired run on top of the smoking hot valve cover. I guarantee the insulation is cracked at the boot and they're turning green. I redid mine and those wires looked like the Statue of Liberty under the insulation. 

That idle will bounce around a little as more sensors come into the mix. The 1/4 mile to 1 mile you mention is about the time the o2 sensor will chime in. During the transition from open loop to closed is when any problems with the car are usually most evident. A leaky idle screw o-ring will cause problems, as well. Just think of any way unmetered air can get into the engine, intake gaskets, there's a million hose clamps, etc. 

Change your fuel filter if in doubt. Cut the old one open and look for black gunk. That would indicate the fuel pump gasket has disintegrated. That stuff settles at the bottom and is sucked up when fuel gets low.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

I have a question. I have a pair of cheap halo projector lights than came with my 'Rado, and are near useless in the Dark. The PO did not have the originals anymore, but I found some one locally selling stock G60 head lights. He want $125 for them. Is this a good deal? Should I even think about getting these, what are my options in this regard? Thanks for the advice.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

ArchAngel4 said:


> I have a question. I have a pair of cheap halo projector lights than came with my 'Rado, and are near useless in the Dark. The PO did not have the originals anymore, but I found some one locally selling stock G60 head lights. He want $125 for them. Is this a good deal? Should I even think about getting these, what are my options in this regard? Thanks for the advice.


for another 100 bucks you can get euro ecodes for the g60. Stock american headlights were piss poor lighting anything


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Thanks again Havok. Where is the best/cheapest place to buy those, I have looked around, but haven't found anything other than on ebay. Thanks again.


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## GT TDI Golf (Jan 27, 2003)

Check the classifieds: http://forums.vwvortex.com/forumdisplay.php?826-Corrado-Parts


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Thanks again Havok. Where is the best/cheapest place to buy those, I have looked around, but haven't found anything other than on ebay. Thanks again.


I just sold a set on ebay yesterday afternoon. They are a european or canadian headlights so you will need to find a used set.


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## jamm585 (Jan 22, 2003)

Wheel spacer question....need 10mm spacers for my wheels. ECS tuning has a note about different spacers for the rear due to hub difference in MK3s. Does this apply to VR6 Corrados or can I use the same spacer for the front as the rear?


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## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

ArchAngel4 said:


> I have a question. I have a pair of cheap halo projector lights than came with my 'Rado, and are near useless in the Dark. The PO did not have the originals anymore, but I found some one locally selling stock G60 head lights. He want $125 for them. Is this a good deal? Should I even think about getting these, what are my options in this regard? Thanks for the advice.


Heres a set of head lights and fogs. :thumbup: $85. opening bid
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271281408213?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


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## Strictlyapathy (Jun 2, 2012)

Issue: manual shifter is PHYSICALLY hard, or sometimes impossible, to move out of or into reverse, first and sometimes second gear. After starting the car, attempting to put the car into reverse results in grinding. I either have to wait for it to heat up or turn the car off, put it in reverse, start it, back up, turn car off, put in first, start car, go after which getting it OUT OF first and INTO second is a challenge. Again, it is physically difficult to move. It doesn't slip or grind in any forward gears and seems to shift better, but not great, when the car is warmed up. Shifts smoothly, with no issues, when the car is off and doesn't make any weird noises upon shifting even when driven (other than grinding into reverse when cold).

I was thinking a few things: clutch, slave/master cylinder, fluid or synchronizers but probably clutch.

Any other suggestions?


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## whos_jonny (Nov 11, 2008)

*new g60 headers vibrating against sway bar*

So my replacement G60 headers are vibrating against the sway bar at low rpm's. It's eating away at the metal on the headers. For now I have some heat wrap on that area to cushion between the two, and I was thinking maybe if I adjust the tension on the front springs, it will create a gap between the headers/sway bar. Anyone know if this would work?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Strictlyapathy said:


> Issue: manual shifter is PHYSICALLY hard, or sometimes impossible, to move out of or into reverse, first and sometimes second gear. After starting the car, attempting to put the car into reverse results in grinding. I either have to wait for it to heat up or turn the car off, put it in reverse, start it, back up, turn car off, put in first, start car, go after which getting it OUT OF first and INTO second is a challenge. Again, it is physically difficult to move. It doesn't slip or grind in any forward gears and seems to shift better, but not great, when the car is warmed up. Shifts smoothly, with no issues, when the car is off and doesn't make any weird noises upon shifting even when driven (other than grinding into reverse when cold).
> 
> I was thinking a few things: clutch, slave/master cylinder, fluid or synchronizers but probably clutch.
> 
> Any other suggestions?


That could be attributed to a number of things. I would start with the easiest/cheapest things first. Easiest being to pop the hood and inspect the cable ends. Have someone shift through the gears while you inspect the movement. 

Bleeding the clutch master and slave would be next. I would recommend a power bleeder, less you try to furiously pump the pedal with your hand. That approach rarely ends in success. 

If no improvement, I would change the gearbox oil. It's not winter in MD yet so, there's no reason for it to be difficult only in the morning, unless it's already compromised. 

Still a no-go means new parts; master and slave. I would get a new slave hose while you're in there. You can do this first and bleed it once if you don't mind spending the money. 

Clutch would be next. It's not out of the question for a rivet to fail and a spring coming loose. If the clutch looks ok, that leaves the tranny. Syncro grinding into second is an ominous sign. VW recommends waiting a few seconds before selecting reverse from any other gear.:thumbup:


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

whos_jonny said:


> So my replacement G60 headers are vibrating against the sway bar at low rpm's. It's eating away at the metal on the headers. For now I have some heat wrap on that area to cushion between the two, and I was thinking maybe if I adjust the tension on the front springs, it will create a gap between the headers/sway bar. Anyone know if this would work?


I would try adjusting the exhaust first. The G60 exhaust is simply terrible in the way it's mounted. Those stupid donut hangers leave too much movement which leads to their eventual failure. Loosen the three cat bolts, push and pull it around to see if you can get some clearance. Make sure your motor mounts are still good. A lot of exhaust failures can be attributed to those.


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## whos_jonny (Nov 11, 2008)

mateok said:


> I would try adjusting the exhaust first. The G60 exhaust is simply terrible in the way it's mounted. Those stupid donut hangers leave too much movement which leads to their eventual failure. Loosen the three cat bolts, push and pull it around to see if you can get some clearance. Make sure your motor mounts are still good. A lot of exhaust failures can be attributed to those.


Since I just had the exhaust remounted, I think it's about as good as it's gonna be. I'll research the motor mounts and go from there. The old headers didn't have this problem but these new ones were/looked a little different. Probably off an 8v non-G60 engine. Even the flange adapter was off- 2 bolt instead of 3 and the spacing of the holes was off- I had to improvise when I remounted the cat but it's on there solid.


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## TrashWang (Jul 19, 2013)

So I have another wiring question. My car came wired for E codes and they work fine(high beams, low beams) but my problem is there are a couple of extra wires and an extra connection for the NA lights. I know that the eurowires kit only plugs into one and I haven't really looked into the actual wiring because it all looks fine besides the Yellow and Brown on each side.
A weird thing is that if i flash the high beams with the lights off it will toggle the passenger side low beam each time, it's hard to explain but it doesn't seem normal.
Heres what I'm looking at.
driver


pass


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

whos_jonny said:


> So my replacement G60 headers are vibrating against the sway bar at low rpm's. It's eating away at the metal on the headers. For now I have some heat wrap on that area to cushion between the two, and I was thinking maybe if I adjust the tension on the front springs, it will create a gap between the headers/sway bar. Anyone know if this would work?
> 
> 
> mateok said:
> ...


Downpipe and exhaust leak issues have plagued my g60. Motor mount failure has been at the heart of most of it. Those sagging mounts caused three tt s/s downpipe bellows to fail and leak. The factory G60 downpipe have integrated/enclosed springs next to the bellows that keep em from stretching too far. With that said the only time interference or rubbing issues occurred was after a repaired tt downpipe was used. It was out of spec after new bellows were installed. The out of spec d/p was discovered after it was installed. Pisser!!! Willing to bet that the headers are out of spec or designed for a non g60 motor. There's little or no info from an owner who used an 8V, non G60 header on a G60 motor and how it fits. There are a lot of comments stating "it should". 

Haven't heard much about it but a Mk IV stock tubular exhaust would be the way to go. If I would of known about Frankenstien'g a Mk IV exhaust on a G60 I would of been checking clearance then had Techtonics on the phone fab'g a G60 downpipe for it. TT has all the jigs, specs and can zap out this kind of stuff in a heartbeat. When I ordered my TT ss 2.5" cat back exhaust they spec'd and fab'd it to fit a Corrado VR6 cat instead of the G60. It's one of the many options available on their secret menu.

An aftermarket header is just too loud and offers too little in return for the g60's dodgy exhaust note. Stay stock on the mani or try port matching the Mk IV exhaust to the G60 head for better results. TT can let you know what's involved to fab a matching downpipe for fitment on a G60.

*Mk4 exhaust manifold 8v*


G60ING said:


> here is a good thread for you to review:*How to build a relatively inexpensive, reliable, 'powerful' 2.0 8v.*.


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

Hey All, So I just had all my stage 4 goodies installed and come to find out my car is a "Cali Model." So this was a very expensive way to find out. Got everything installed then relized the chip burnt up. So can anybody please confirm if they make a stage 4 chip for "Cali Models" or does the ECU have to be sent out. Thanks in advance and any info is appreciated. Oh and the last three of my ECU is 023B. 

David


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

1992 Corrado SLC (VR6)

Is this interference typical in the Front Left Corner of the E/G compartment? As the hood release cable routes, the metal cable goes through a bracket. The bracket is touching the ac line in 2 places. The shape of the bracket looks like they designed it intentionally to have contact ...not good. This is the AC line on the Driver Side at the top of the condenser.

My Opinion: The radiator/condenser assembly is shock mounted, so it will rub through the aluminum AC line eventually.

Questions:
1. Is this a unique interference to my vehicle?
2. Recommended change/fix?

Sorry, I haven't figured out how to post a pic on this forum yet...duh!!!


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## IMWALKIN (Mar 28, 2002)

90 g60... so my C has been sitting for some time...charged the battery, and she will not start... upon inspection the #15 fuse is blown...mayb from charging?? swap that out and still nothing...I hear clicking from the fuel pump relay, and I hear power priming the pump but it will not start... I'm charging her again now and was just looking for some other thoughts before I dive in...my thought is mayb a bad fuel pump relay..#12 but that would be too easy and wouldn't ruin my whole sat now would it..:laugh::laugh: thanks everyone!


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

Strictlyapathy said:


> Issue: manual shifter is PHYSICALLY hard, or sometimes impossible, to move out of or into reverse, first and sometimes second gear. After starting the car, attempting to put the car into reverse results in grinding. I either have to wait for it to heat up or turn the car off, put it in reverse, start it, back up, turn car off, put in first, start car, go after which getting it OUT OF first and INTO second is a challenge. Again, it is physically difficult to move. It doesn't slip or grind in any forward gears and seems to shift better, but not great, when the car is warmed up. Shifts smoothly, with no issues, when the car is off and doesn't make any weird noises upon shifting even when driven (other than grinding into reverse when cold).
> 
> I was thinking a few things: clutch, slave/master cylinder, fluid or synchronizers but probably clutch.
> 
> Any other suggestions?


This isn't a fix by any means, but my G60 has the same issue, and I haven't had the time or funding to start chasing down the cause. I've found that the best method to get it out when it is stuck is to use the heel of your fist and give it like three taps. It'll usually pop out on the second or third tap.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

You guys should start by checking all your shifter bushings and regreasing them if they need it. And after that, remove any sslp and readjust cables, shifter tower, shifter to make sure it goes in and out o gear properly. Also if that doesnt work, maybe change the clutch throwout bearing for a new greased out one.


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

xtremevdub said:


> You guys should start by checking all your shifter bushings and regreasing them if they need it. And after that, remove any sslp and readjust cables, shifter tower, shifter to make sure it goes in and out o gear properly. Also if that doesnt work, maybe change the clutch throwout bearing for a new greased out one.


I know I know... I get the feeling I'm going to need a new clutch altogether sooner or later.


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## NickSita (Aug 8, 2013)

*Clutch makes squealing noise when depressed*

Clutch makes squealing noise when depressed
Hi,

A few days ago I got a bit of squealing from my clutch pedal when it was completely depressed but it was intermittent. Today, the noise happens whenever the clutch is pressed prior to a shift. There doesn't appear to be any slipping but the noise is loud - sort of like a loose fan or A/C belt makes. 

I'm scheduled to take the car into the mechanic on Friday (today is Tuesday) but am hoping to get some info here prior to committing to any repairs. 

I purchased the car about two months ago and was told that the slave cylinder was recently replaced. 

Thanks,
Nick

1993 Corrado SLC VR6
186,XXX miles
5-speed (obviously)


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## TrashWang (Jul 19, 2013)

I have another problem, I don't know if anybody has tried to replace the three cluster lights instead of opting for ddi faces but I bought a couple of leds and figured I'd give them a shot, I put a 390 ohm resister on them but with all three in in wouldn't work, I know the problem could be that the negative/positives could be backwards but my concern is that my turn signal indicator lights also just stopped working randomly so i was wondering if there is some sort of fuse that could go on a 93+ cluster.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Hello guys, I just encountered a problem with my ignition.

I noticed that my key does not sit in the position as before. When I turn my key all the way to start the car, the key turns back counter clockwise and shuts my car off.

Is it the ignition switch? The car does turn on but I have to hold the key in the position as it were to be to start the car, I had a fun time driving it home this way.........


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> Hello guys, I just encountered a problem with my ignition.
> 
> I noticed that my key does not sit in the position as before. When I turn my key all the way to start the car, the key turns back counter clockwise and shuts my car off.
> 
> Is it the ignition switch? The car does turn on but I have to hold the key in the position as it were to be to start the car, I had a fun time driving it home this way.........


Did you shift with your mouth? Man, that's some serious finagling. I would presume the ignition switch has failed, as well. I don't know if the white plastic one is still offered but, avoid it. You want the black one made out of ABS plastic.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

mateok said:


> Did you shift with your mouth? Man, that's some serious finagling. I would presume the ignition switch has failed, as well. I don't know if the white plastic one is still offered but, avoid it. You want the black one made out of ABS plastic.


Thanks mateok! Lol, yeah It was really late when I wrote that. Thanks again.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

^ I was referring to you driving while holding the key in the start position, steering, and shifting at the same time, impressive:thumbup:


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Wheew! That was an inconvenience once again.

Bought this green/white switch which did not work. Did not make full contact and it actually looked different than the one on my car.
It did work but I had to wiggle the key in a certain specific way in order for it to start.










Went to another auto parts store and bought one there. Originally they wanted 30 bucks. The guy hooked me up and sold it to me for 13 bucks! 




























Black one was the old one, white/green was the one that didn't work out, grayish one is the bees knees. Yaaaay.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

mateok said:


> ^ I was referring to you driving while holding the key in the start position, steering, and shifting at the same time, impressive:thumbup:


It was a gnarly situation lol. If I twitched just one quarter of an hair inch the car would turn off. I got to my destination with no problem whatsoever. 

Thanks mateok.


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## TrashWang (Jul 19, 2013)

TrashWang said:


> So I have another wiring question. My car came wired for E codes and they work fine(high beams, low beams) but my problem is there are a couple of extra wires and an extra connection for the NA lights. I know that the eurowires kit only plugs into one and I haven't really looked into the actual wiring because it all looks fine besides the Yellow and Brown on each side.
> A weird thing is that if i flash the high beams with the lights off it will toggle the passenger side low beam each time, it's hard to explain but it doesn't seem normal.
> Heres what I'm looking at.
> driver
> ...





TrashWang said:


> I have another problem, I don't know if anybody has tried to replace the three cluster lights instead of opting for ddi faces but I bought a couple of leds and figured I'd give them a shot, I put a 390 ohm resister on them but with all three in in wouldn't work, I know the problem could be that the negative/positives could be backwards but my concern is that my turn signal indicator lights also just stopped working randomly so i was wondering if there is some sort of fuse that could go on a 93+ cluster.


If someone could shed light on my problems I would be very thankful


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## corrado-g60 (Aug 13, 2013)

*need a clutch! help plox!*

Hey guys,

its been sometime since i have posted anything, i have been busy with college and work, and work on my car!

So yesterday i got in my car to find that the clutch pedal can be pressed to the floor very easily, and i cant engage the gears. my father and i do the work ourselves. But my dad is not sure if a cable broke or if its the fork. (im still learning all this stuff so bear with me) 

we were planning on putting a new clutch and everything in so this might just be the best time to do it, i was looking at ACT's clutches from BBM, however im not to sure what to get. Or the brand. and what stage? will a higher stage clutch affect the engine? I was thinking about a stage 2, my dad thinks a stage 1 and stage 3 might be too high, so i said stage 2. 

while were down in that area, are there any other major components i should be looking for? should i put a new flywheel in? I noticed most kits dont have that in there. 

Any and all help, will go to great use. Ill take pictures of our work, maybe it might help some people out, or use as a guide tool? 

later,
Corrado Boy


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

corrado-g60 said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> its been sometime since i have posted anything, i have been busy with college and work, and work on my car!
> 
> ...


More than likely is not your clutch.. (by the way, you dont have a cable)
Is almost sure to be the master or slave cylinder for the clutch. One one breaks, if you replace it, it kills the other one... so is best to change them both at the same time, for another 20 years of trouble free driving. :thumbup: 
Change them before you ever buy a clutch. :thumbup:


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

^ just get the VR6 clutch and pressure plate for your G60. That's the best setup I've ever put in my G60.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> Wheew! That was an inconvenience once again.


I suggested you avoid the white one, anyhow. that plastic turns yellow and crumbles when exposed to heat. The ignition switch handles quite a bit of current.


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## ajhvw93 (Oct 26, 2009)

mateok said:


> I suggested you avoid the white one, anyhow. that plastic turns yellow and crumbles when exposed to heat. The ignition switch handles quite a bit of current.


^^^^^ This 1,000% Plus most of the white ones as stated by Blackslchild dont even work. I recently tried 4 diff white ones not one worked. I would not recomend anything but oem for this application. I had a friends car cacatch on fire due to aftermarket switch


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## corrado-g60 (Aug 13, 2013)

*slave [email protected]*



xtremevdub said:


> More than likely is not your clutch.. (by the way, you dont have a cable)
> Is almost sure to be the master or slave cylinder for the clutch. One one breaks, if you replace it, it kills the other one... so is best to change them both at the same time, for another 20 years of trouble free driving. :thumbup:
> Change them before you ever buy a clutch. :thumbup:


Thanks I will start with those! so my dad was curious to find that its not a cable. so does the clutch master cylinder work with the master cylinder for your breaks? or is it one unit for both?

I read online that when you replace both you have to re-adjust the clutch pedal, how can you, and how do you know at what height to make it? also is there oil in the transmission that i should change? there is 76k miles on my car. 

thanks for any help in advance,

Corrado Boy


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

corrado-g60 said:


> Thanks I will start with those! so my dad was curious to find that its not a cable. so does the clutch master cylinder work with the master cylinder for your breaks? or is it one unit for both?
> 
> I read online that when you replace both you have to re-adjust the clutch pedal, how can you, and how do you know at what height to make it? also is there oil in the transmission that i should change? there is 76k miles on my car.
> 
> ...


Hmm, there seems to be some confusion about how that sucker actually works. Although it utilizes the same reservoir as the brakes, that's where the sharing ends. Separate cylinders and lines for both. 

There's no adjustment for the clutch pedal. It's bolted to the master cylinder shaft. It's height is determined by the master cylinder and return spring. As it's seals begin to wear the pedal will get lower and lower. Soon after you'll have to raise it up with your foot between shifts. Eventually you'll get in the car one morning and it'll be DOA lying on the carpet. 

Visual aids work better than words:thumbup:


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## Strictlyapathy (Jun 2, 2012)

jaweber said:


> This isn't a fix by any means, but my G60 has the same issue, and I haven't had the time or funding to start chasing down the cause. I've found that the best method to get it out when it is stuck is to use the heel of your fist and give it like three taps. It'll usually pop out on the second or third tap.


From reading around, I keep thinking it's the shift linkage... It's the old school O2A lever without a carrier and apparently if it's within even MM out of alignment, it could jack it all up. There's a right up on how to get it right but I ran out of daylight today.

You seem lucky enough to get it out of first/reverse. I attempt to pull so hard I get scared it'll snap something.

I'll attempt to readjust the linkage and report back if it worked. I tore it all apart today trying to get an idea how it works.


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## Strictlyapathy (Jun 2, 2012)

xtremevdub said:


> You guys should start by checking all your shifter bushings and regreasing them if they need it. And after that, remove any sslp and readjust cables, shifter tower, shifter to make sure it goes in and out o gear properly. Also if that doesnt work, maybe change the clutch throwout bearing for a new greased out one.


if you can, elaborate on WHAT bushings exactly. preferably with pictures if you can. i almost lost my mind today trying to figure this out. i'd almost prefer to pay someone to come out and do it for me...


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## Strictlyapathy (Jun 2, 2012)

Although I still don't understand how it happened almost overnight. One day it was completely fine (shifting-wise) and the next, it's stuck. It happened, coincidentally, around the same time I disconnected my e-brake and started parking in first.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Strictlyapathy said:


> Although I still don't understand how it happened almost overnight. One day it was completely fine (shifting-wise) and the next, it's stuck. It happened, coincidentally, around the same time I disconnected my e-brake and started parking in first.


this is the kit your looking for. shifter rebuild kit for g60

http://www.urotuning.com/Shift-Bushing-Rebuild-Kit-8-pcs-Corrado-G60-p/uro-0071.htm


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## Strictlyapathy (Jun 2, 2012)

i actually could use this, my components look like poopie. i don't think will solve my issues though it might help with the excessive shifter wobble i have.


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

Strictlyapathy said:


> You seem lucky enough to get it out of first/reverse. I attempt to pull so hard I get scared it'll snap something.
> 
> I'll attempt to readjust the linkage and report back if it worked. I tore it all apart today trying to get an idea how it works.


Tap... don't pull. If I pull mine it gets hopelessly stuck and I really have to beat on it to get it out. I'm excited to hear what you figure out by adjusting though! Good luck, keep us informed.


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## Strictlyapathy (Jun 2, 2012)

jaweber said:


> Tap... don't pull. If I pull mine it gets hopelessly stuck and I really have to beat on it to get it out. I'm excited to hear what you figure out by adjusting though! Good luck, keep us informed.


Do you have the "newer" style with the counterweight / balance weight?


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

Strictlyapathy said:


> Do you have the "newer" style with the counterweight / balance weight?


I don't really know, my car is a '90, built in May of '90 and I think its all original if that's any indication. Do you have pictures of both? I can have a look later today.


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## Strictlyapathy (Jun 2, 2012)

jaweber said:


> I don't really know, my car is a '90, built in May of '90 and I think its all original if that's any indication. Do you have pictures of both? I can have a look later today.


I believe the later style is used on later G60's and SLC but I could be mistaken. Basically, the one I have doesn't utilize a "carrier" and instead only has a shift linkage lever that the actual cables attach to on top of the transmission. On the "later" styles, there's a counter weight and a carrier, including the lever, that's used. The operation's the same and they aren't interchangeable from my understanding.

Maybe someone with a better understanding of these two set ups can chime in here.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

You don't have the shift weight, it was never installed on the G60. The boost tube interferes with it's movement. You can get around that by installing a Eurosport tube if you're interested.


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## Strictlyapathy (Jun 2, 2012)

mateok said:


> You don't have the shift weight, it was never installed on the G60. The boost tube interferes with it's movement. You can get around that by installing a Eurosport tube if you're interested.


Wouldn't you have to swap the entire late set up over though? Seems moot.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

Strictlyapathy said:


> if you can, elaborate on WHAT bushings exactly. preferably with pictures if you can. i almost lost my mind today trying to figure this out. i'd almost prefer to pay someone to come out and do it for me...


In this forum, today or yesterday there was someone posting a picture of what to replace and where to buy it. 
Just search a little. Im at work so I cant spoon feed you this one.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

This whole shift weight idea is moot, it's not the problem on an "all original" G60. OP, start by dropping the shift box from the car. I know it's a pain but, so is owning a Corrado. Replace all those worn out bushings and check for improvement. This is for a VR6 but, the bushings are the same and the pictures still work:thumbup:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4944426-DIY-VR6-02A-shifter-rebuild


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## Strictlyapathy (Jun 2, 2012)

xtremevdub said:


> In this forum, today or yesterday there was someone posting a picture of what to replace and where to buy it.
> Just search a little. Im at work so I cant spoon feed you this one.


I've frequented the past four pages and if you're talking about the post from today/yesterday with the Urotuning link, it was in response to my question.

I'm not asking to be spoon fed, otherwise I wouldn't be on this forum. I'd be at a transmission shop. This thread is for asking questions after we've attempted research. I've browsed my Bentley, this forum, THE Corrado Forum, Youtube, CCoC Forums and even Audizine among many more. Most of the information relates to the shifter with the counterweight which isn't my set up but I've deduced that it's nearly the same adjustment procedure. When an explanation about replacing bushings was posted, I was under the impression you were referring to something dealing with the shifter assembly under the hood rather than in the car. I took it almost as "replace the wires near the battery" ...ok, which wires? Basically, the amount of time it could take to spell out what you're talking about by being a bit more specific, versus the amount of time to tell someone to search for something is probably negligible. Not to mention, it MIGHT take me (or someone else) considerably longer to find exactly what you're (or someone else) referring to.

However, I understand the whole "go find it yourself first" response when it comes to people who have maybe ten posts under their belt, start the same thread on five websites and clearly haven't opened their hood or even know what Google is. I wouldn't say that's the case here.

No hard feelings though, and I really do appreciate the assistance. As far as the maintenance portion of this linkage replacement/repair, I have been able to figure it out from searching but I have yet to actually do it. While I'm in there, it'd be nice to know what else I should look out for and maybe replace for a few extra coinz. So, thanks for the heads up on the shifter bushings, it's on my to-do lists when I start diving into this.


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## Gordaydum (Oct 4, 2013)

Hey, I have a 1990 G60, completely stock. Recently the supercharger stopped working and I don't know why. I thought it was a problem with the inter-cooler pipe but after looking it seems fine.

Basically it won't build up any pressure. It sits around 20 VAC and drops to about 5 when I'm driving, never goes below 5 or builds any pressure.
All the belts are running, and I can't find any obvious boost leaks. I'm pretty unskilled when it comes to cars but I am trying to learn. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## Strictlyapathy (Jun 2, 2012)

Gordaydum said:


> Hey, I have a 1990 G60, completely stock. Recently the supercharger stopped working and I don't know why. I thought it was a problem with the inter-cooler pipe but after looking it seems fine.
> 
> Basically it won't build up any pressure. It sits around 20 VAC and drops to about 5 when I'm driving, never goes below 5 or builds any pressure.
> All the belts are running, and I can't find any obvious boost leaks. I'm pretty unskilled when it comes to cars but I am trying to learn. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Someone more experienced with G60's is probably going to tell you it took a poop and needs a full rebuild.

Are you checking the Boost and Vacuum via MFA in 3rd gear? That's supposedly the most accurate without a pressure gauge.


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## Gordaydum (Oct 4, 2013)

Strictlyapathy said:


> Someone more experienced with G60's is probably going to tell you it took a poop and needs a full rebuild.
> 
> Are you checking the Boost and Vacuum via MFA in 3rd gear? That's supposedly the most accurate without a pressure gauge.


Just checked the with the MFA red lining in 3rd, not even getting 400, according to a quick google I should be at least getting 1000.


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## corrado-g60 (Aug 13, 2013)

*Exhaust!*

So, how does one take off the exhaust? my dad and i have tried to do so, but there are three bolts from the exhaust manifold but we're only able to get one (1) bolt off. and the others we cant seem to get to, Midas wants a grand to fix the gasket or donut, what ever is up there leaking. 

If there is a link to a forum on here, just put that up, i have searched online, and on here. Of course i cant find anything thats why im typing! :sly: on that note, my parts are coming in to fix my clutch problem. yay!


Thanks again guys for all the help,

Corrado Boy


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

Strictlyapathy said:


> I've frequented the past four pages and if you're talking about the post from today/yesterday with the Urotuning link, it was in response to my question.
> 
> I'm not asking to be spoon fed, otherwise I wouldn't be on this forum..


Spoon feeding is a term we use in this forum, hence the happy face after that answer. Newbie!

First make sure your shifter is all nice and rebuild tight with the Urotuning rebuilt kit... that alone will make it not go into gears smoothly. I think the g60 cables cannot be adjusted.. my mistake..










I actually run mk4 cables on mine and they are fully adjustable.. 

The reason I did that is because my tranny was not smooth or going into gear properly, so I put an mk4 shifter box and threw away the g60 box. And since the mk4 (fully adjustable) cables didnt fit the G60 shifter tower on the tranny, I modified everything to fit. Since then I had the time and put the proper mk4 shifter tower on my tranny and is one of the best mods I have ever done. 

fix the shifter box inside the car first and then report. If you are missing the C clip or something like that, your shifter would work like crap. 



Gordaydum said:


> Hey, I have a 1990 G60, completely stock. Recently the supercharger stopped working and I don't know why. I thought it was a problem with the inter-cooler pipe but after looking it seems fine.
> 
> Basically it won't build up any pressure. It sits around 20 VAC and drops to about 5 when I'm driving, never goes below 5 or builds any pressure.
> All the belts are running, and I can't find any obvious boost leaks. I'm pretty unskilled when it comes to cars but I am trying to learn. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Try checking the plastic boost tubes under the battery path. Those with the years of battery acid falling on them could cause a serious boost leak and making people thing that the charger is toast. I bought a mint Corrado for 1000 bucks like that once. Ten minutes later, we put a new pipe, and voila! boosting supercharger!  



Strictlyapathy said:


> *Someone more experienced with G60's is probably going to tell you it took a poop and needs a full rebuild.*
> 
> Are you checking the Boost and Vacuum via MFA in 3rd gear? That's supposedly the most accurate without a pressure gauge.


And that would be option number 2! 

But normally you hear it. they make holes on the charger when the explode. :laugh:


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## Strictlyapathy (Jun 2, 2012)

Yeah, I'll give the UroTuning kit a shot first but you are saying that the G60 shift linkage is, in fact, NOT adjustable? If that's the case, if the bushing kit doesn't solve my problem, would I need to start looking more at the hydraulic parts? Keeping in mind that my clutch pedal hasn't suffered any, yet.

I'm almost inclined not to believe the MFA readings as my boost is apparently low as well but the tubes are so clean they look almost new, same with the belt and pulleys. I just have no idea of the age... time to invest in a gauge I guess.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

corrado-g60 said:


> So, how does one take off the exhaust? my dad and i have tried to do so, but there are three bolts from the exhaust manifold but we're only able to get one (1) bolt off. and the others we cant seem to get to, Midas wants a grand to fix the gasket or donut, what ever is up there leaking.
> 
> If there is a link to a forum on here, just put that up, i have searched online, and on here. Of course i cant find anything thats why im typing! :sly: on that note, my parts are coming in to fix my clutch problem. yay!
> 
> ...


 Three bolts, are you talking about the downpipe/ catalytic converter connection? That's a ratchet and a box end wrench (preferably a Gearwrench, stubby). It's pretty tight up there in the tunnel, admittedly. If you drop the back of the exhaust, the downpipe has a little flex to it that will give you a little more room. Remember, somebody was able to tighten those bolts so...

$1000 to change the cat gasket? I would straight up punch a person in the mouth if they told me that. I'd do it for half that


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## corrado-g60 (Aug 13, 2013)

*Exhaust*



mateok said:


> Three bolts, are you talking about the downpipe/ catalytic converter connection? That's a ratchet and a box end wrench (preferably a Gearwrench, stubby). It's pretty tight up there in the tunnel, admittedly. If you drop the back of the exhaust, the downpipe has a little flex to it that will give you a little more room. Remember, somebody was able to tighten those bolts so...
> 
> $1000 to change the cat gasket? I would straight up punch a person in the mouth if they told me that. I'd do it for half that


That seems to be my answer right there, the down pipe must be what im talking about. I was going to ask what I should put for a exhaust, but there are so many posts about what kind of exhaust to use that I wont ask lol.  

my dad and I didn't even think about taking the cat off first, so that will really help. well im in class so I must go now woohooo 3 hour class!:banghead:

thanks for the help!

Corrado Boy


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

Any way to rotate this internal piece of the air direction knob? Without rotating the gear that is. Mine seems to be twisted one click to the left so it gets stuck at 'face & feet' and can't rotate up to just 'face'.


















So the knob is pointing to 5 o clock but the internals are all the way left as if it was at 1 o clock.

Edit: Nvm got it off.. 

So now the problem is that when I get to the third position (7 o clock) the horizontal gear pulls away slightly so that the teeth are not making good contact. 

Edit 2 : further diagnosis shows that this was the problem as well as the gear moving.


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## corrado-g60 (Aug 13, 2013)

*Slave Cylinder!*

Hey everyone, so I got the slave cylinder and the clutch master cylinder put on, just having some trouble putting the lines back on, my father will help me with today. I took many pictures, I think ill post them on photo-bucket since it wont let me put them on here. maybe a short guide on how I did it. it might help others out in the end.

Now I am having a problem, finding a cloth like hose that goes from the master brake cylinder to the clutch master cylinder. It's blue, I went to the dealership and all they could tell me was the "I.D
" is 220mm. I have called all the local shops no one has the tubing. so its blue, its a rubber hose wrapped up in a cloth braided wrap. 

I hope some one can help me. and perhaps tell me its proper name other than a tube wrapped up in a tube.  

Thanks again in advanced,

Corrado Boy


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

corrado-g60 said:


> Hey everyone, so I got the slave cylinder and the clutch master cylinder put on, just having some trouble putting the lines back on, my father will help me with today. I took many pictures, I think ill post them on photo-bucket since it wont let me put them on here. maybe a short guide on how I did it. it might help others out in the end.
> 
> Now I am having a problem, finding a cloth like hose that goes from the master brake cylinder to the clutch master cylinder. It's blue, I went to the dealership and all they could tell me was the "I.D
> " is 220mm. I have called all the local shops no one has the tubing. so its blue, its a rubber hose wrapped up in a cloth braided wrap.
> ...


Local auto parts store, 3/8" Dia. IIRC OIL HOSE, should cost all of $2 max


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

The blue feed hose for the slave hasn't come up for a while. GAP has it ...

http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Brake/425/1










They said they'd list it next to the clutch slave that they sell but never did. It's still listed with brake components. And no, it never came with hose clamps from the factory. Gotta bitch about something ya know.


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## corrado-g60 (Aug 13, 2013)

*uh oh......*

soo....my dad and i got the slave cylinder and the clutch master cylinder on, he also helped me get the lines on, i had trouble with 0_o we are still working on getting all the air out, i think ill get a pump. i read somewhere on here that they can be difficult to get the air out.

I started my car up, i wanted to see if the clutch would engage, it does. however, when i put it in first, IT GOES INTO REVERSE???? i think my dad put the linkage on wrong( hes known for fixing and breaking things on my car) guhhh. ill try to move this bracket. but before i do so, i wanted some feed back on what everybody thinks.

EDIT: i found my problem and got it fixed!

Thanks in Advanced,

Corrado Boyumpkin:


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## corrado-g60 (Aug 13, 2013)

*transmission fluid?*

Okay so i know there is quite a few threads out there for this however, none of which answer my questions. 

i have a 1990 vw corrade g60 5speed. 75k miles. i called the dealer ship they have the fluid i need. and i know it takes 2L. but can i put something better in? such as royal purple? is there a weight? and i read about the synchronize oil, if i put that in, is it the full 2L or some of it?

Thanks in advanced!

Corrado Boy


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)




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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

All right, I have a problem. I noticed the CV joint boot on my passenger side was ripped so I set aside a weekend do fix it. Being a good mechanic, I decided to just replace the half axle, as I did not know how long it had been ripped. After much trouble, the new axle was in, and the car ready for reassembly. The problem I have, is for some reason, the strut/coil over, was compressed against the steering knuckle. This means that to put it back together, I have to shorten the strut by about 4 inches. I borrowed a coil compression tool from Oreilly's and it compresses it enough to fit back together, but The strut and tool won't fit into the space where the strut goes together, and of course I can't reassemble it with out the tool. I really don't know where to go from here, this is my daily driver, and I need to get it fixed. Any help or related advice is very much appreciated. 

Thank you in advance.


----------



## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

*45,000 '92 SLC - Timing Chain*

Apologies up-front, but I believe this to be somewhat of a unique situation.

I've read most of the background information on the Timing Change replacement. My vehicle has just a little chain noise at this time (idle ~ 1,500 rpm). I've had a few experienced individuals confirm the same opinion as well as comparison to videos documenting noises online. 

The timing chains & guides have never been changed to my knowledge. It seems like this is a unique situation, combination of 21 years old and low miles (45k).

For preventative maintenance, I'm thinking just to replace the upper guides & tensioner and call it a day since the vehicle only has 45k miles and plan to only put about 2,000 miles on the car every year. I think I can do that myself. Then I can do all the chains and tensioners at 100k in about 20 years...

So again, I'm focussing on the upper since I haven't seen anybody have an issue with the lower chain guides in the threads...and the chains should still be good; but I could have missed something.

Advice? (Advice to be specific for the age and 45k mileage; would the plastic guides be impacted by their age, material property degradation, and not just mileage?)opcorn:


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## harleybrown4160 (May 2, 2009)

*Nd help getting a megasquirt system please*

Can someone direct me to a good place to get a megasquirt setup for a build car I am trying to finish Thanks


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

It's all rubber, glass and metal regardless of what it's been engineered to do. Stop driving your car, Period. Regardless of mileage or time have it serviced and show it some respect for a 20+ year old machine. 

Bottom line, the maint for timing chains is past it's interval. Corrado owners earn respect for outwitting the VW engineers and doing the equivalent of beating Vegas. You've been lucky already, don't go home broke.


JDCorrado said:


> Apologies up-front, but I believe this to be somewhat of a unique situation.
> 
> I've read most of the background information on the Timing Change replacement. My vehicle has just a little chain noise at this time (idle ~ 1,500 rpm). I've had a few experienced individuals confirm the same opinion as well as comparison to videos documenting noises online.
> 
> ...


----------



## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Has any one heard of my problem posted above happening? Where the strut, once removed from the knuckle, is too tall to reattach.


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Has any one heard of my problem posted above happening? Where the strut, once removed from the knuckle, is too tall to reattach.


What type of control arm bushings do you have? Poly? I've never heard of this issue before. 

Are you putting the strut up into the strut tower first and then bolting it to the spindle? 
Do you have the spring compressed on the strut already with the strut mount bolted on?

Also just for future reference there is no need to remove the strut, just remove the single bolt bolting the ball joint into the spindle to remove the axle/s. Its easy peezy:banghead:


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey G60ing, I believe I have stock bushing. The struts are bilstein struts with neuspeed coilovers. The problem seems that the struts were pressing against the knuckle and so when I it, it just dropped a few inches, and now I can't get it back up to reattach it. That is with it all the way up into the strut tower. I realized belatedly that I didn't really need to detach the strut. I did the same job on a Subaru, and with that car you have to detach the strut from the knuckle, and the tie rod end from the knuckle. I looked this car up, and found I just needed to pull the three ball joint bolts and wing it out. Even if I did that though, I think I would run into a similar issue, and the strut was pressing down on the knuckle initially. Have you ever heard of it being configured like this, and is there any way to get it back together? Thanks.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Do you just have one side of the front end up in the air? Disconnecting the swaybar will help you, one 13mm nut. Then push down on the control arm, stand on it if you have to. To put the sway bar back on you will have to have both front wheels off the ground. 

Also NEVER remove the three bolts on the ball joint unless you want to replace the the ball joint or want to get an alignment. There is a SINGLE bolt that holds the ball joint to the spindle, this is the bolt you want to remove.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Do you have the OE strut assembly or coilovers? You keep using the word coilover, then rented a coil compressor? 

From what I understand, you can't get the two strut holes lined up with the knuckle because the strut assembly is too long? Maybe post a picture of your predicament.:thumbup:


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

I will post pictures as soon as I can get back to the car. These are not the OE struts. The car came with these aftermarket setups. I googled the serials, and not only are they discontinued, but they are listed to NOT be for the 1990 G60.


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## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

I'm sure the answer is in here somewhere, but 255 pages is quite a bit to go through! I have to send my charger out for a rebuild and I have another car down so I need to drive my Corrado to get groceries and dumb local stuff. I need to know what size belt to run with the G60 out, A/C & PS delete with the VR water pump pulley. Thanks in advance! :thumbup:


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

I believe its 55" or 55.5" for a/c, PS and pullies. I have no idea with your unique combo, break out a tape measure and run it around and then go buy 2-3 belts. return the belts you don't use.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

ArchAngel4 said:


> All right, I have a problem. I noticed the CV joint boot on my passenger side was ripped so I set aside a weekend do fix it. Being a good mechanic, I decided to just replace the half axle, as I did not know how long it had been ripped. After much trouble, the new axle was in, and the car ready for reassembly. The problem I have, is for some reason, the strut/coil over, was compressed against the steering knuckle. This means that to put it back together, I have to shorten the strut by about 4 inches. I borrowed a coil compression tool from Oreilly's and it compresses it enough to fit back together, but The strut and tool won't fit into the space where the strut goes together, and of course I can't reassemble it with out the tool. I really don't know where to go from here, this is my daily driver, and I need to get it fixed. Any help or related advice is very much appreciated.
> 
> Thank you in advance.


*Do you have the strut bushing/bearing assembled in the correct order?*

*If you're using stock springs reassembly will be a bit more difficult due to the higher ride height. *

*Doesn't your spring compressor fit inside the spring? Couldn't you use a floor jack raise the assembly up just a hair to bolt it onto the spindle?*


















or


----------



## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey Pete, I got it on already, but thanks for the ideas. I did not disassemble the strut and spring, I just took the assembly off. Also, these are not stock at all, neither strut nor spring. The car is also lowered. I got it back on with brute force and as best use of what I had as I could. I can't figure out why these struts were put on this car, they are not even for this car. They are listed, in what vague references I could find on the discontinued baddie, that they are for VR6 Corrado, and not G60. Just weird I suppose.


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

We're both front tires off the ground when you pulled the axle?


----------



## corrado-g60 (Aug 13, 2013)

*new coil?*

Hey guys, so i wanted to upgrade my coil on my g60, something with a better spark or bigger spark, my father told me that if i get a better one that it "could" increase the performance. I have no certain idea if it can. but i like the sound of it...lol. Anyways, i have been searching around online and on here, but i haven't come up with a clue on what to get.

If anyone has any one has some suggestions that would be great!

Thanks in advanced!

Corrado Boy:laugh:


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Fireball


----------



## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

*Distributor Cap Woes...*

Hello all,
I finally found and installed a new rad neck today, and after a couple of weeks of not driving I started up my Corrado! It started up right away, just like always, but immediately bogged down and started to miss (also not uncommon when cold for the first minute or two in my C :facepalm: ). I've been meaning to replace the distributor cap and rotor for a while now, and since the hood was already up I had a look at what was going on around there; to my dismay as I tried to move the spark plug wires, my distributor cap fell apart and I could see the spark firing (obvious source of my engine miss problem) this is probably why my car runs so sh*****y when its wet out. So my question is, are there different Bosch distributor caps for the different YEARS of the G60?? And having a '90 G60, am I limited to the "orange one" (vs the "black and orange one")? What exactly is the difference?? Is there a "better" choice of the matter? I haven't done too much research on it so I figured I'd go to you guys first. Thanks!


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

There's no difference between years. That same distributor cap was used up until 1999 on certain models. The black one is just an orange one with a plastic radio suppression cap on it. They originally came with a metal RFI shield. Get a Bosch one, they seem to be better quality.


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

mateok said:


> There's no difference between years. That same distributor cap was used up until 1999 on certain models. The black one is just an orange one with a plastic radio suppression cap on it. They originally came with a metal RFI shield. Get a Bosch one, they seem to be better quality.


That makes sense! Definitely going with the Bosch one, cheap s*** makes me mad.
Thanks Mateok.

Other question, its been pretty bad for a while when wet/cold, would it be worth my time and money to get a whole new distributor?? There's one in the classifieds right now for a hundred bucks.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

The Hall Sender either works or not. Every failure I've seen was from a faulty pick up coil. Unless the magnet was somehow degaussed, highly unlikely, that's bulletproof. With that being said, moisture can sometimes cause the insulation to short to ground causing drivability concerns. 

I wouldn't spend $100 on a used distributer. Unless the seller posted an oscilloscope print out with a nice square waveform, no thanks. A new one for that price would be attractive. 

Just check yours for signal with an LED. You'll need an oscilloscope to see its true performance. Easier yet, if the car runs, it's fine.


----------



## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

mateok said:


> The Hall Sender either works or not. Every failure I've seen was from a faulty pick up coil. Unless the magnet was somehow degaussed, highly unlikely, that's bulletproof. With that being said, moisture can sometimes cause the insulation to short to ground causing drivability concerns.


I'll just go with a new cap and rotor for now, it was working alright until the cap disintegrated so it should be fine.
Thanks again!


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

My distributor was so haggard. I was amazed when I replaced it, it did give me a check engine light but it always started. Lol


----------



## eurobred (Jun 10, 2005)

ABS feels like it just went out tonight, brake pedal got super hard. wondering what all do i need to get rid of my ABS system and swap to the good ol' non-ABS? because i rather not deal with it...
im hearing you have to get all of the parts from a 16v passat?

booster master cylinder
booster bracket
brake fluid reservoir
additional line to the rear brakes

is that all i need?


----------



## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

blackslcchild said:


> My distributor was so haggard. I was amazed when I replaced it, it did give me a check engine light but it always started. Lol


Psh... Check Engine Light... You SLC guys are so funny... But yeah, that looks pretty beat. I don't think mine is that rough though.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

jaweber said:


> Psh... Check Engine Light... You SLC guys are so funny... But yeah, that looks pretty beat. I don't think mine is that rough though.


What? I did replace it. I checked the code that was giving me, it said the hall sender was bad. As soon as I got my new distributor in my hands, I swapped it out. Check engine light went off and I did notice a difference in performance (slightly).

Oh, and yes I'm equipped with an abs, hand brake, check engine light module. It blinks me codes.

I don't know what's so funny about "slc guys"?


----------



## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

blackslcchild said:


> I don't know what's so funny about "slc guys"?


Don't worry, I was just poking fun at the existence of your check engine light, as, having a G60 I'm not well-enough equipped to get one


----------



## girdwood (Mar 10, 2004)

Question...

G60 4 lug Wilwood 280mm/11" 4pot kit from Momentum and BBS RAs... how big of spacers needed to fit? I saw my Corrado for the first time in I don't know how long, tried to put the front wheels on to move it, and no workie. So I temporarily pulled the calipers off so it could be towed.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

girdwood said:


> Question...
> 
> G60 4 lug Wilwood 280mm/11" 4pot kit from Momentum and BBS RAs... how big of spacers needed to fit? I saw my Corrado for the first time in I don't know how long, tried to put the front wheels on to move it, and no workie. So I temporarily pulled the calipers off so it could be towed.


Break out a tape measure, bolt the wheel on the car without a caliper and see how much clearance you have.


----------



## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey, I am back on an old problem I have had. The radiator fan does not seem to be working at all. It comes on with the A/C, but will not come on at temp at all, no matter what temp it is at. Here is what I have done.

Car came with a nearly brand new radiator
New OE thermo switch
New OE After-run switch
New Wiring harness
New Relays
Checked fuses
New OE Fan
New OE Blue CTS
New OE Black CTS
I have been fighting with this problem for a while. Incidentally, the after run no longer works. It used back when this problem first started, but not any more. The after run does kick in if I unplug it from the sensor, and put the wire on the throttle body. The gauge said the car never over heated after I replaced the two CTS sensors with ones I found in a '90 Passat at a yard, and the after run worked fine. I didn't trust the reading to be accurate, because they said I was running really cool all the time. So I got brand new OE matching part #'s from Autozone.com, and now it seems to overheat all the time. I just can't think where to go with this. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## madonion (May 1, 2007)

*hard start fuel check valve ?*

I have a issues starting the car after it sits one week in the garage. I need to prime the system a couple a times for it to start and give it gas to prevent it from stalling when it first start. The inline pump is only 5 years old or so but I suspect the check valve to be bad. I took the inline pump assembly off this evening and there was almost no fuel in the line after the fuel filter. I there anyway to check the check valve when it's off the car ? Should I add a standalone check valve ?. The rubber lines coming from the tank need to be replaced is it possible to replace those rubber / hard line combination with lines made only from rubber ? I'm talking about the lines from the high volume low pressure pump to the inline pump ?


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Hey, I am back on an old problem I have had. The radiator fan does not seem to be working at all. It comes on with the A/C, but will not come on at temp at all, no matter what temp it is at. Here is what I have done.
> 
> Car came with a nearly brand new radiator
> New OE thermo switch
> ...


Air pocket

Does the radiator ever feel hot at the bottom? If not then you have been fighting an air pocket. There are a couple of ways to battle this. 

-Take the cap of the coolant bottle, squeeze the hose repeatly, you want to squeeze the air out, this air pocket is stopping the waterflow,then add water directly to the radiator by taking the hose off the front of the block and pouring water into it so it goes in the radiator. I usually take the hose off the radiator and then use a funnel with a hose to pour water into the radiator. This the best approach

Another approach is to drill a TINY hole in the thermostat to let the trapped air escape. 

Once you get the top and bottom of the radiator to get hot and your issue still persist then you need to breakout the multimeter and start tracing power from the fuse box through the rad fan wiring to the fan and find out where the power stops and why.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey G60ing, Thank you for the help. I am going to due that and see if it helps. I will do it the first way, I don't like drilling unnecessary holes. Incidentally, a short while ago, the radiator fan seemed to come on every time I turned on the rear window defrost switch. It has stopped now, but for a short while it did that. I wonder if there is a short or crossed wire some where. It would only happen when the engine was off. It does not happen at all anymore. Thanks again for the help.


----------



## Seis (Apr 2, 2003)

*OG here running into trouble, broken gear selector on transmission*

Long story short: after being a daily for nearly 5 years the car has spent the past 5 years in pieces in a garage and there's maybe 10 hours left of work to get her street-worthy. But lots of small stupid things. Case in point:

When dropping the old transmission I had left the gear selector attached, obviously the tranny caught this on the subframe coming out and broke it in half. Because why not?

New lower mileage tranny purchased from classifieds, no gear selector. * So here's my question: *

I know how to remove the selector from the old transmission (and have), but I'm not sure how to get everything removed from the broken housing piece and into the new housing prior to installing in the new transmission. The only way I can tell anything is attached is by a small nut that holds the actual selector shaft to the housing where the cables attach, so that when trying to loosen it the whole mechanism shifts with it basically selecting a different gear...

Pictures to clear up the fact that I often make up my own terms for things:










^^ Broken housing










^^ New Housing










^^ Only real way I can fathom of unattaching everything, but does not seem to be the most logical progression.


**Sidenote, great thread idea Noobercorn. I'm OG enough to actually remember when the name McNair started showing up more and more in here and thinking "Hey, that guy knows his stuff". So ironically I'm not "New", but will definitely be needing some help. Having just realized I've been on the forum now for over 10 years makes my lower back hurt...


----------



## ml1986 (Apr 27, 2012)

Can I use a VR6 brake booster on my Corrado G60? If so what is needed?


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Yes, the parts required depend upon which VR6 you are pulling the parts from. ALL SLCs had abs so are we talking mk3, b3 or B4? Later brake cylinders have a brake cylinder that attaches with a ball and plastic clip to the brake pedal. If you get one of these you will want the pedal too.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Seis said:


> Long story short: after being a daily for nearly 5 years the car has spent the past 5 years in pieces in a garage and there's maybe 10 hours left of work to get her street-worthy. But lots of small stupid things. Case in point:
> 
> When dropping the old transmission I had left the gear selector attached, obviously the tranny caught this on the subframe coming out and broke it in half. Because why not?
> 
> ...


The shift tower is pretty easy to remove, typically the toughest part is getting the housing unsealed from the case because the sealant is high strength glue and requires heat and some blows from a hammer to twist the assembly. 

Here is an old disassembly thread I had on the transmission: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?767717

Here is a picture of the whole shift tower after its removed. 










Once you get this out then you need to remove the nut on the end of the shaft. Make certain these nuts are tight and use red lock tight when reinstalling. The splines have been known to strip on some so inspect these closely.

Goodluck


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## Seis (Apr 2, 2003)

G60ING said:


> Here is a picture of the whole shift tower after its removed.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Probably should've been more specific. I actually had the shift tower out but don't have a vice or anything to hold it to undo the top bolt. Too scared of breaking something I thought potentially I was missing something.

Just reattached it to the old transmission to break the nut loose and then hammer tapped the shaft out of the top assembly (the splines you referred to were welded to the bracket with 21 years of use).

Thanks for the help! I've missed both the car and Vortex! I'll post a video of the champagne cheers in another 4 months when it runs :thumbup:


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Sounds like you are still making progress, post up here if you have anymore questions


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Hey G60ing, Thank you for the help. I am going to due that and see if it helps. I will do it the first way, I don't like drilling unnecessary holes. Incidentally, a short while ago, the radiator fan seemed to come on every time I turned on the rear window defrost switch. It has stopped now, but for a short while it did that. I wonder if there is a short or crossed wire some where. It would only happen when the engine was off. It does not happen at all anymore. Thanks again for the help.


You don't need to do anything other than touch the radiator after letting it run for a few minutes. If its cold on the bottom then you have no water flow and its and air pocket, good luck


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## TrashWang (Jul 19, 2013)

*HELP!*

Kind of vague, but my car starts up and just kinda sputters out as soon as it gets started.
93 VR6
It has fuel, obviously.
I don't know what it could be...


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

TrashWang said:


> Kind of vague, but my car starts up and just kinda sputters out as soon as it gets started.
> 93 VR6
> It has fuel, obviously.
> I don't know what it could be...


It's a vr6, it can be scanned with Vag-Com using the 2+2 adaptor if you don't want to make an adaptor yourself. The 200-300 spent on the cable could help you avoid spending thousands on parts swapping.


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

Can someone please tell me if a driver side axle from a 4cyl mk3 will work in my 91 g60. Thanks in advance!!

David


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

The G60 axles are shorter than the 2.0 MK3 axles by about an 1/2" according to the article below. I've seen a lot of places selling the same axle for a 2.0 and a g60 though. Mk III 2.0 will not fit a G60. Search Google with ..."vwvortex 2.0 and g60 axle same" .. It was in the Hybrid/Swap Forum. Never would of found it using the search on Vbulletin. It's a PITA to find just glad it consolidated somewhere though.

Get a 100mm G/J II axle new or used. It's an exact swap for the g60. The difference between the two was that G60 had a donut shaped balance weight bonded on (US) drivers side axle.

*


jok3sta said:



are the g60 and 2.0 axle the same??

Click to expand...

http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/au...rm/tLOXrMN0gDRbQCfog6VDFhEWTe/_aDSF43e/GfBjDZ*

$49 off eBay .. free shipping .. call it a day
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LH-Axle-Sha...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item519535d6bd


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## TrashWang (Jul 19, 2013)

G60ING said:


> It's a vr6, it can be scanned with Vag-Com using the 2+2 adaptor if you don't want to make an adaptor yourself. The 200-300 spent on the cable could help you avoid spending thousands on parts swapping.


Do you mean this? http://store.ross-tech.com/shop/AF2X2.html
Cheaper than I thought.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

petethepug said:


> The G60 axles are shorter than the 2.0 MK3 axles by about an inch according to the article below. I've seen a lot of places selling the same axle for a 2.0 and a g60 though. Mk III 2.0 will not fit a G60. Search Google with ..."vwvortex 2.0 and g60 axle same" .. It was in the Hybrid/Swap Forum. Never would of found it using the search on Vbulletin. It's a PITA to find just glad it consolidated somewhere though.
> 
> Get a 100mm G/J II axle new or used. It's an exact swap for the g60. The difference between the two was that G60 had a donut shaped balance weight bonded on (US) drivers side axle.
> 
> ...


For another 15 bucks you can get a reman. :screwy:


----------



## TrashWang (Jul 19, 2013)

> Quote Originally Posted by TrashWang View Post
> Kind of vague, but my car starts up and just kinda sputters out as soon as it gets started.
> 93 VR6
> It has fuel, obviously.
> ...





TrashWang said:


> Do you mean this? http://store.ross-tech.com/shop/AF2X2.html
> Cheaper than I thought.




This is what it is doing, you can also hear my awesome fuel pump in it whining.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

HavokRuels said:


> For another 15 bucks you can get a reman. :screwy:


Sooooo .... what's a good reman these days? EMPI? Autotech had all the NOS Lobro/GKN drive shafts with the rubber donut attached for $100. They're gone now. Everything else out there is made overseas or rebuilt junk. Mk II OE are still available but why pay $3h+?

Are ya saying don't buy a pre owned OE Lobro/GKN for $49 (to his door) that'll go for another 100K miles? That's just wrong or bad advice for a g60 owner. 

The only other sensible solution is pricey since geared for the 300hp+ motors
*http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/volkswagen?dir=asc&limit=30&order=price*




hoodita said:


> ... so I just use factory shafts and just get new joints.
> 
> 
> sdezego said:
> ...


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

The best joints are oe, I took my oem axles and rotated the joints from left side to right side , basically swapping the axle shafts and installed new boots. It's a trick the tdi guys use, they are über cheap guys that love quality parts. I would recommend using vw boots, I bought boots from gap and within 6 months I had at least one tear. The vw boots are now plastic and very robust.


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

TrashWang said:


> Do you mean this? http://store.ross-tech.com/shop/AF2X2.htmlt
> Cheaper than I thought.


That's the adapter required to go with the $250 cable sometimes you can pic up a used cable for less or try your luck with the eBay knockoffs. Rosstech a products are really worth the $$$ once you have cars new enough to use all of the capabilities.


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

Hey dudes. It looks like I'm going to be leaving the country for a few years (3 min) in pursuit of my PhD. Thus, I will need to store/park my car. I can leave it in my fathers cramped garage or just up at the top of his driveway. I'll be covering it, but what else needs to be done. Also, he will be able to start it and let it run however often it will need. Thoughts?


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

*How to store your car ... *


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## hi_racing (Jul 6, 2004)

jewnersey said:


> Hey dudes. It looks like I'm going to be leaving the country for a few years (3 min) in pursuit of my PhD. Thus, I will need to store/park my car. I can leave it in my fathers cramped garage or just up at the top of his driveway. I'll be covering it, but what else needs to be done. Also, he will be able to start it and let it run however often it will need. Thoughts?


Edit: What that guy ^^^ said. 

If he doesn't drive it there's not much point in starting it once in a while. (all this is just my lousy opinion)  Nothing will be better for it than being driven weekly.

My C has been sitting WAY too long. She'll come out of mothballs one day. Here's thoughts of things to make it easier to bring yours back after 3 years. Water is the enemy. Just about all of the following are trying to keep water away from your car.

Put Sta-Bil in the fuel and run it long enough to get it into the injectors. Then top off the fuel tank. Change the coolant. Replace with 100% coolant - no water. Change the brake fluid. Change the power steering fluid. Change the oil - just put in the cheapest stuff you can find and fill up the crankcase to the very top. Disconnect the starter positive lead and leave yourself a note to drain/properly fill the oil before reconnecting. Remove the spark plugs and fill the cylinders with oil. Reinstall the plugs. Remove the battery. Cover a new air filter with cling wrap and install it to help keep moisture out of the intake. Cling wrap/plastic over the exhaust. Wash and wax. Dress all the rubber bits with silicone. Mothballs in the engine bay. Light machine oil on all the hinges and door lock cylinders. Clay cat litter and activated charcoal are good things to leave inside the cabin. Last thing is to put 'er on jackstands at each corner just enough to take the load off the springs and suspension bushings.

When you get home, drain the oil and refill. Reinstall starter lead. Replace the fuel filter. Remove the plastic cling wrap. Take out the plugs and turn it over by hand to make sure that oil's out. Change the coolant. Install a new battery and I bet it'll run! 

Good luck!


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## corrado-g60 (Aug 13, 2013)

*yeeehaaa!*

Okay guys, Corrado Boy back at it again!

Except this time, i don't have any major concerns to fix anything. I am learning more about the car faster than I had expected, which is a good thing. Right now im bidding on a g60 ladar hopefully ill get it, im super excited! This leads me into a question that i have tried searching for online, but nothing to find so it must be rare.

I am not doing this to my car, but i still am curious to how it would work... So some cars have twin turbos, what about twin superchargers? I understand how each work, but i prefer to have power instant than a lag, to each their own right? I asked my dad about this, he said theres no point cus you cant force more air into the chambers anyway, but if so then it would of been the same for the turbos? 

I know this is not the forced introduction thread but you guys are great on this one...

One more thing, i have started a blog for my car, it was to help my grandparents fallow what i do for my car. They always went onto my facebook to see what i have done, but it was to hard to fallow for them, so i made a blog. 

this is the link, if anyone is interested in see my car..... http://corradog60usa.blogspot.com/


Any way, until then.....

Corrado Boy


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## yip (Jul 14, 2003)

corrado-g60 said:


> Okay guys, Corrado Boy back at it again!
> 
> Except this time, i don't have any major concerns to fix anything. I am learning more about the car faster than I had expected, which is a good thing. Right now im bidding on a g60 ladar hopefully ill get it, im super excited! This leads me into a question that i have tried searching for online, but nothing to find so it must be rare.
> 
> ...


Your dad was partially right. A stock G60 engine can only swallow so much air. As much as I like the G60 I'd rather have 1 BBM twin screw than 2 G-Ladders.


----------



## corrado-g60 (Aug 13, 2013)

*perhaps*



yip said:


> Your dad was partially right. A stock G60 engine can only swallow so much air. As much as I like the G60 I'd rather have 1 BBM twin screw than 2 G-Ladders.


I wasn't just asking for the g60, but any car? what about a v8? rather than having 1 supercharger, why not 1 for each head? Just curious thats all~

Corrado Boy


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## G60Ron (Sep 27, 2010)

*poor running and no running issues*

iv been having an issue with my g60 (corrado) for the past few months it would misfire but then go away then a few days later it was do it again or not at all...pretty weird so I thought maby bad plugs or wires changed them looked at my coil (msd blaster 2) so it only got really really bad within the past few days then it would go away...so this morning I was on the way to work and it started again and now I couldn't rev past 3k much less accelerate so I pulled over and the car shut off and wont turn back on wtffffff


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

G60Ron said:


> iv been having an issue with my g60 (corrado) for the past few months it would misfire but then go away then a few days later it was do it again or not at all...pretty weird so I thought maby bad plugs or wires changed them looked at my coil (msd blaster 2) so it only got really really bad within the past few days then it would go away...so this morning I was on the way to work and it started again and now I couldn't rev past 3k much less accelerate so I pulled over and the car shut off and wont turn back on wtffffff


Won't turn back on, as in cranks but won't start? Check the usual suspect - crank keyway - variable timing will cause some drivability concerns

Unable to achieve high speed is usually indicative of a faulty knock sensor. That won't prevent the car from starting, however. What happens when you accelerate, is (or was) it misfiring so bad it won't go past 3k? Or is the car in limp mode? A few of the Digifant sensors, upon failure, will do that, Co-pot, CTS, etc. 

Break out the multimeter and see who's not playing nice anymore.
EDIT: A guy in Norway had a similar situation. Turned out to be a faulty distributor cap:thumbup:


----------



## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

G60Ron said:


> iv been having an issue with my g60 (corrado) for the past few months it would misfire but then go away then a few days later it was do it again or not at all...pretty weird so I thought maby bad plugs or wires changed them looked at my coil (msd blaster 2) so it only got really really bad within the past few days then it would go away...so this morning I was on the way to work and it started again and now I couldn't rev past 3k much less accelerate so I pulled over and the car shut off and wont turn back on wtffffff





mateok said:


> EDIT: A guy in Norway had a similar situation. Turned out to be a faulty distributor cap:thumbup:


I had the same kinda thing on my G60 it was either the distributor cap, rotor, or wires, I replaced all three this weekend and it runs better than it ever has since I bought it. Mine would do the whole misfire and bog down instead of accelerate and then all of a sudden kick out power and go until I let the RPMs drop when it would start missing again. It usually did it like tenfold when it was wet or humid out; that might be why yours comes and goes?? Its worth checking into.


----------



## yip (Jul 14, 2003)

corrado-g60 said:


> I wasn't just asking for the g60, but any car? what about a v8? rather than having 1 supercharger, why not 1 for each head? Just curious thats all~
> 
> Corrado Boy


Google


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Ron check the timing marks then the spark system, including the hall sensor.


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

Thanks for the storage tips.

Anyone ever experience a squealing noise coming from somewhere near the gauge cluster. It starts at few seconds after turning the car on and then squeals continuously. It will stop for a few seconds if I depress the brakes with some force (moving or stopped). It's not very loud, but it is constant. Only started after it got cooler out.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

corrado-g60 said:


> I wasn't just asking for the g60, but any car? what about a v8? rather than having 1 supercharger, why not 1 for each head? Just curious thats all~
> 
> Corrado Boy


There are too many variables and options to get into a discussion answering this. Lag on a turbo pertains to size and believe it or not, gearing on your tranny. There are smaller turbos that can take out higher hp cars by spooling up quicker and having better gears. You probably won't fond specific answers by searching because its more of a collective answer. You need to understand how each scenario works to make sense of the broader perspective.

Sent from my cellular

Follow me on Instagram: europeein


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## boisebimmer (Oct 3, 2012)

Did the Corrado ever come with a non leather wrapped wheel in the united states? I purchased one and it's not leather wrapped, just plastic and the guy is claiming its from his stock Corrado. I've done some googling but I can't find anything. 

Thanks!


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

That "leather a like" wheel is from the Polo. It's identical to the Corrado's Euro steering wheel and really only discernible because there are no seams where the leather is sewn together on the outside. The seller can claim what ever he wants. The bottom line is he sold you and Pleather Polo Wheel. eBay or payPal will comp you regardless. The wheel on the bottom is the pleather wheel he prolly sold you. WTT: European corrado steering wheel


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

boisebimmer said:


> Did the Corrado ever come with a non leather wrapped wheel in the united states? I purchased one and it's not leather wrapped, just plastic and the guy is claiming its from his stock Corrado. I've done some googling but I can't find anything.
> 
> Thanks!


If it's the NA style wheel without leather it might be from a Passat. Some of those came with the exact same wheel, only finished in supple rubber.


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## TrashWang (Jul 19, 2013)

I have an addition to my problem about how my vr6 starts and sputters out, It will run now..:screwy: but it runs super rich at idle(black smoke) and if i give it any throttle it cuts out.

Could it be my TPS?


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## corrado-g60 (Aug 13, 2013)

*Finally!!!!!*

Okay guys, Corrado boy back again....


This time, i have some questions that are useful...

So I finally was able to buy a Supercharger for my g60, the g-lader. I bought it used from ebay, it is very good condition (from what i can tell). I might have it rebuilt at a local shop around from people they know more about them than myself. The supercharger came with two lines, oil in and a return line? I am not sure where they hook up. when i got the car it didnt have the g-lader on it. 

Also, I am looking for the air hose hook ups, the charger did not come with any, if there is a website and one can point me to that would be great! If there is a thread that is already made for this please send me there. I have found many rebuilding threads, but none for the charger setup.

Thanks in Advanced,
Corrado Boy


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

The braided stainless line (feed) attaches to the side of the head. There should be an adaptor there that also holds an oil pressure sensor. The rubber one (return) screws into the block right below the charger.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hello all, I am back with my overheating problem. I checked my thermostat, and my water pump, both seem fine. My car is running well otherwise, no idle issues, seems to have good power. The thing is, the car has not shut off, or done anything other than run up 230+ when I am sitting still. The oil temps are not high, around 200 degrees Fahrenheit in general driving, plus/minus 10 degrees. I have not blown coolant, nor do I have any coolant leak. All the components of the system save the thermostat, and the water pump are practically brand new. The top and bottom hoses however are vastly different temps after the car gets up to temp, with the bottom one being almost cold if not cold to the touch, and the top one being very hot. I had it flushed after I found a yellow gunky stuff in the top hose, but that stuff is still there, and the flushing really didn't help at all. Here is a pic of the stuff.



























I don't know what this stuff is, and I can't figure out why my G60 is just nearly overheating. I turn on the heater, and prevent it from getting bad in order to protect the engine. 
The radiator fan is not coming on at all, here is a list of the new parts on the system
Radiator(PO no receipt but was told it was less than a year old)
Blue CTS
Black CTS
Radiator fan
Wiring harness
Coolant
Fan after run switch
Thermoswitch
Also, There is no coolant residue on the bottom of the oil filler cap, there does not appear to be any coolant on the dip stick, and there is no obvious oil in the coolant reservoir. Sometimes, a little water comes out of the exhaust pipe when I first start the car, ut it is only a few drops within the first few seconds. The exhaust only smells like exhaust, and just a little rich on gas.
That all I can think of. Please let me know what you think is going on here. Thanks in advance.


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

Here couple things to check out! Check fusses, fuse 6 and 19 for sure! There couple ways to check fans operation,
Power at thermo switch! Solid red is 30 power (battery power) there red/black and red/white wires, jump the connector, red to red-white, speed one should come on, same thing for red to red-black wire, the 2nd speed should come on. That one way,

To check low speed circuit, ground the after run switch, that will turn low speed fan only! If that doesn't come on, A: have wire issue,blown fuse,bad after run relay, possible faulty fan motor! Like any else check your grounds and power sources first! At times, Turing on ac on or putting on defrost mode will run fan at low speed! You can do this (key-on-engine-off) 

The other way check fan is to put straight power to fan, just isolated the circuit 1st! 

As far white crud, could be left over coolant flush material, coolant breaking down or too much corrosion in coolant system from not using distill water or lack of coolant maintance, possible stop leak was put in the coolant system! Or at times, could be coolant mixing with air(coolant leak) I don't have solid answer on that part!


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey chc-rado, The fan will work, I have checked all parts of it, and replaced all electrical parts already. The problem is coolant is not flowing. I am replacing the Thermostat right now, but a few things I heard made me think I might have a head gasket starting to go. I was hoping someone might know one way or the other from what I described. I checked the thermostat in water, and at 87 degrees Celsius, it opened, very slowly, but it opened. I also looked up into where the thermostat sits, and the impeller blades on the water pump are all fine, and when I turned the pulley a bit, it shoved coolant right out. I am at a loss here, I figure I will go ahead and replace the thermostat and see what happens, but I wanted to ask everyone what they thought about that gunk, and what I should do about it.


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

At least know the fans works!:thumbup: if thermostat opens up, it should be fine! There are few things that cause the engine overheat! Bad coolant cap! Stuck close thermostat! Air pockets in coolant system. Worst all cases is faulty head gasket or warped head bc it's aluminum. Your car being 1990. Those came with paper(fiber) head gasket. Updated are metal head gasket! 

One thing you check with coolant cap off, with car running, make sure you don't see or smell exhaust fumes from coolant bottle! There other few ways to check if head gasket issue at home, with car cold, start the car with coolant cap closed, run it for a minute no more two minutes, there should be no pressure build in coolant system, if it releases a lot of pressure when removing the cap(carefully) you might have head gasket issue.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey chc-rado,, thanks for the help again. Depending on your answer to this pic, I might check that. So, I pulled the top hose and flange off the radiator and examined the fins inside. Here is what I saw.



























to me, this looks exceptionally clogged. While I have the thermostat out, I poured distilled water right into the hole where the top flange connected, it slowly seeped out of there through the hole where the thermostat was. Correct me if I am wrong, but shouldn't it have gushed out, like it does when I pour it into the hose that goes into the engine block? I would think so, as the thermostat is not in at all to restrict the passage of the coolant. Please let me know what you think. Thank.


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## GT TDI Golf (Jan 27, 2003)

Looks like someone used a lot of stop leak and it caused the radiator to clog. I'd replace it. If you have a temperature gun I would check to see if the temp is the same across the radiator. If not then you'll be needing a new one.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Here is the bottom, without water or coolant in it.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Could be G11 mixed with G12 too.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

That is horrible man. Pressure wash it?


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

HeHe no kidding it is horrible, I'm looking for recommendations on how to get this stuff out. I do not have a pressure washer, but that is a good idea. Anything else I can try. I heard about a Calcium Lime and Rust remover that might work. Also, If I have the thermostat out, and I pour water into the radiator with the bottom hose disconnected from the thermo housing, it should flow right through, into my catcher right? Thanks for the help guys.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

If its not your daily, then you could take it off and pressure wash it to the max. Probably leave it in some clr, degreaser, or commercial cleaner and then flush it out again and again. Probably will help? I would cover both ends and fill it with a degreaser for a whole day and then power wash it at a local car wash? (Not sure what the regulation is where you live? Something I would consider.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

That is a good idea blackSLCchild, and unfortunately this is my daily. I can drive another car for a while though. First though, is this salvageable? There are broken plastic pieces in the bottom, that seem to have come from near the top flange. Also, I don't really know to this regard, but with the thermostat out, and the flange disconnected from the bottom hose, should I be able to pour water in the top, and have it run out the bottom fairly quickly, or should it slowly seep out the bottom? I am seeing it just seep, and if it is not supposed to it probably means elsewhere inside is horribly clogged. Thanks guys.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Looks like Bar's Leaks. I've seen that a few times on customers cars. If it is, there's nothing, as far as flushes, on the market that will touch it. See if you can snag a chunk of it from a hose. Put it in a container and see what it takes to dissolve it. If it's Bar's it'll have a rubbery texture and only a solvent (acetone) will break it down. 

That stuff should be removed from store shelves.


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

That look bad. I would replace the radiator, either new or one in better condition one. If that stop leak, that stuff is hard to remove! Where there was leak it reacts with air and turn into glue! It actual does work in stopping leaks, but clog small passage ways. Like the one in radiator and heater core! Taking out radiator to pressure cleaning May work, but at that time, you're better replacing the radiator, you will spend more time cleaning(flushing) that stuff out! 

CLR is good, not great, it does attack aluminum. People use it to flush heater cores more than radiator at full strength. You can dilute, then put coolant system run it like flush! In diesel application, tech will use SHOUT bc low sud properties and little of baking soda! Then flush it with pure water! 

Whatever you choose to use as flush agent! It take about 4 steps, 1st step, draining the system, 2nd step, the solution, 3rd step, draining again,and flushing with water, last step putting good coolant mixture back in the coolant system! 

Thus being 20 year car! Never bad put new radiator this car! Behr and denso and nessin and akg and Valeo are good oem manufactures. If going replace radiator, rad-neck will be good choice replace too at same time, if that in your budget!


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Here is the bottom, without water or coolant in it.


The plastic radiator on the Corrado is almost impossible to repair. Hate to say but you're in for a new radiator, t-stat and expansion tank cap. I say new cap since I had one that compromised it's seal. After an over heat from a clogged radiator it allowed the motor to immediately boil over and loose all it's coolant. That cost me a new head gasket AND head. The gunk is either ground mustard, pepper or the commercial version of stop leak additive. :thumbup: He's right you're in for a good cooling system flush. 

At a minimum your in for a new radiator and a gal of coolant. Time to swap to G-12.
The stop leak has been known to crystalize in cooling passages.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey guys, thanks for the advice. The system is already drained, and I have the T-stat out already. The water pump looks fine (thank God). I need to clarify something, I don't think my radiator is completely clogged, as I have not had a boil over heat. I have done preventative measures including using the heater to prevent, but I have never let it get to the point where it boils over and potentially risks the head or head gasket. I guess I will try to clean it, I did have it flushed a few days ago professionally, but I suppose that they screwed up or didn't use the right compound for the gunk in there. *Quick question*, if I have the bottom radiator hose disconnected, and I pour distilled water in the top, should it *rush out the bottom, or slowly seep out*? I really need to know. Thanks guys.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

If you want to save time and hassle then replace it. If you want to save a couple of bucks and have time to spare then cleaning it would be ideal. Either way, both ways will definitely help your car. Get an aggressive cleaner. Wash it thoroughly. If you did see plastic bits then most definitely something is wrong. 

I would honestly replace it, since the radiator has that gunk inside I would be super mad if after cleaning it and installing it, it will reveal a leak. :...( 

After all, someone put that in for a reason. (Hopefully your head gasket is ok)


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey, thanks for the advice. I have always kept the car from *Actually* over heating, so I think my head gasket is ok. I have not blown coolant, or had the engine shut itself off for being too hot. I think I will just replace it, though this is supposed to be a practically brand new radiator. At least that is what the PO told me. Thanks again for all the advice everyone, you guys make working on a Corrado a bit easier.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

It all depends on if the stuff is crystalized, baked on or just migrating around in the cooling system. Wonder if the tech that did the flush opened up heater, radiator, block and flushed each one separately or used a power flush tool? The only proper way to get all that muck out of the coolant would be to have a coolant filter installed for a while. There's some cheapy versions and some made for HD equipment that would cure the issue. See if you can get one cheap or 2nd hand.
https://dynamic.donaldson.com/webc/WebStore/hierarchy/hierarchy.html?section=10156








http://www.mako.com.au/?content_des...n/product_list_display.cfm&product_groupID=10








This dude says he made his for less than $60 (dieselsite-coolant-filter-kit)
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/99...ion/155912-dieselsite-coolant-filter-kit.html











Is there apparent evidence of a recent fix like a new hose, t-stat or radiator that might point to why the stop leak was put into the system?


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

That filter looks pretty good, I should do that when I get a new radiator. As far as evidence of new repairs, I didn't see anything to suggest that. A guy at the o'riellys near my house said he was 95% sure it was the head gasket that failed. Any way, I will look into this. Thanks.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

There aren't many places to fit a coolant filter, they are larger than the oil filter.


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

So I remember reading about this a few weeks back, my clutch no longer has the motivation to return by itself, especially out of first and second. It only does it like half the time right now, but I have a feeling the worst is still to come. When it does stick, it also affects the clutch action, its as if I don't have the clutch fully disengaged; the car will fight it and try to move forward even while I'm braking like a poorly timed auto-trans. I won't be able to shift gears without using my toe to return the pedal. I'm going to check the master cylinder reservoir and hopefully its just a little low. I read on here about the seals in the clutch cylinder wearing out and causing the clutch to become "DOA one morning" if my memory is correct; but this came on rather suddenly, would this still be the case? Any suggestions of what to check/save up to buy someday would be great!
Thanks everyone!
Jared


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

Exhaust question:

90 g60 body, 24v vr6 lugtronic standalone soon to be precision 6165 turbo. 

3" turbo back exhaust. going to run No cat since I wont need to do emissions in <2 months. Question is what are my options for a 3" exhaust with no drone? I was assuming I could make a custom one instead of ordering the MBS exhaust, however instead of a muffler at the rear, either do a muffler or resonator before the axle to eliminate any drone? 

Does anyone have any experience with running a reso/muffler near the tunnel of the car instead of towards the rear? Do you have drone issues? I want it to be fairly loud outside the car(gotta love that 24v exhaust note) but don't want my gf getting migraines because of the drone inside the car.

Thanks!
Tim


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

jaweber said:


> So I remember reading about this a few weeks back, my clutch no longer has the motivation to return by itself, especially out of first and second. It only does it like half the time right now, but I have a feeling the worst is still to come. When it does stick, it also affects the clutch action, its as if I don't have the clutch fully disengaged; the car will fight it and try to move forward even while I'm braking like a poorly timed auto-trans. I won't be able to shift gears without using my toe to return the pedal. I'm going to check the master cylinder reservoir and hopefully its just a little low. I read on here about the seals in the clutch cylinder wearing out and causing the clutch to become "DOA one morning" if my memory is correct; but this came on rather suddenly, would this still be the case? Any suggestions of what to check/save up to buy someday would be great!
> Thanks everyone!
> Jared


You should change both the master and slave cylinders sooner than later. Check the firewall behind the pedals for brake fluid. The slave will leak into the bellhousing so, hard to check that one. Either way, it's giving you fair warning of things to come. What you've been reading about is exactly what's going to happen one morning. Been there myself.


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

mateok said:


> You should change both the master and slave cylinders sooner than later. Check the firewall behind the pedals for brake fluid. The slave will leak into the bellhousing so, hard to check that one. Either way, it's giving you fair warning of things to come. What you've been reading about is exactly what's going to happen one morning. Been there myself.


Thanks Mateok! Man I need a second job for this Corrado... and the sad part is I bought it knowing exactly what I was getting into; and I still wanted it more than anything. To the top of the list with the master and slave cylinders! Well... just below back-tuition, rent, heat... right above heater core and PS pump. Priorities never were my strong-suit. I get the ominous feeling that Corrado ownership will soon send me back to living with my parents...  I will not give up!


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey, I just wanted to add something I forgot when I was posting about my overheating issue. During the operation of the car, I repeatedly checked the oil filler cap, and the coolant expansion tank cap, and the coolant in the expansion tank and there was never any of the yellow junk that you could see in the pictures. The coolant on the top in the tank was always pure green (yeah I know I had green stuff in it, but I am not going to put expensive G12 in until I am sure that I don't have a problem any more.) I really hope this indicates that the head gasket is not leaking, but that it may have had an issue, was fixed, and just left that stuff in the radiator. Or maybe, someone just put stop leak in. Any thoughts would be helpful, and as always thank you everyone for the sage advice. Also, I am putting in a new radiator that petethepug wisely advised me to put in, this weekend. Thanks again.


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

Knew my oil was leaking but I think it's getting worse. I can smell it burning (today) if I accelerate with any pizazz and just looked to find it pooling and dripping which I hadn't noticed prior. 









This is looking from the front if the car. Radiator would be at the bottom of the picture (front of car).
I suspect that is the highest point of the leak.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I had the same issue ^^^^^.

Had to replace both oil pressure senders.


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

blackslcchild said:


> I had the same issue ^^^^^.
> 
> Had to replace both oil pressure senders.


Stopped the leakage? Where did you buy from?


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Absolutely! I was leaking major oil. I Immediately bought and installed them as soon as I noticed it. 

As soon as I notice something wrong with my c, I go ahead and replace it ASAP. No need to wait.


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

blackslcchild said:


> As soon as I notice something wrong with my c, I go ahead and replace it ASAP. No need to wait.


I wish I had that kinda dough floating around!


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Quick question, I got a hold of a 92 SLC ABS system, and my 90 G60 has a four line non-abs system in it. Is this a straight swap, I searched a little, but did not find anything on this. Thanks.


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## marty890205 (Sep 21, 2013)

Car 93 corrado vr6 automatic
Problem fans dont come on when engine heats up/after run also
Replaced everything
Is there a relay that effects the fans or fcm?


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

marty890205 said:


> Car 93 corrado vr6 automatic
> Problem fans dont come on when engine heats up/after run also
> Replaced everything
> Is there a relay that effects the fans or fcm?


Nuh, nuh, no, no double post on Expert thead and create thread called cooling issues too.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I had a similar problem^^^^

It was the harness that was being pinched by the battery.
A couple wires in the fuse panel an those wires underneath the battery.


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## marty890205 (Sep 21, 2013)

blackslcchild said:


> I had a similar problem^^^^
> 
> It was the harness that was being pinched by the battery.
> A couple wires in the fuse panel an those wires underneath the battery.


Are you referring to me? Which wires in the fuse panel, guess ill check under my battery


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

marty890205 said:


> Are you referring to me? Which wires in the fuse panel, guess ill check under my battery


Yes, I'll try to dig up the pictures I took while I was fixing those wires. Check the wires that go from the brown sensor on your thermostat cover (4 pin) then check the wires/cables that are around your battery. Mine were underneath being pinched....lol.

Oh and I'm not made of money, I just save up and having the pressure of my c being the daily driven car.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

marty890205 said:


> Car 93 corrado vr6 automatic
> Problem fans dont come on when engine heats up/after run also
> Replaced everything
> Is there a relay that effects the fans or fcm?


The FCM is the relay. Do you still have the old 8 pin or the 10 pin replacement? Either way, there's a, or a couple, fuses located on the FCM. S19 (30A) protects the thermo-switch (blackslcchild's condition). The fan won't come on at temp if that's blown. Does the fan operate with the A/C? Does your fresh air fan work?


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

mateok said:


> The FCM is the relay. Do you still have the old 8 pin or the 10 pin replacement? Either way, there's a, or a couple, fuses located on the FCM. S19 (30A) protects the thermo-switch (blackslcchild's condition). The fan won't come on at temp if that's blown. Does the fan operate with the A/C? Does your fresh air fan work?


This gentleman has helped out so much 

Love this guy.


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

I took the suspension off my G60 and the strut bearing seems to be stuck on the strut. Any pointers on how to get it off? Anyone ever have a bearing stick to the strut? It is just the bearing. the rubber strut mount seems to be fine.

Also what does it take to swap to the VR mounts? Just the mounts and the bearing?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

What do you mean it's just the bearing, it's separated from the bushing and is stuck on the shaft? If you've compressed the spring, removed that &%$*# slotted nut, it should all fall on the ground so you can never find it again. 

It's very easy to convert to the VR setup. 
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Suspension/198/1


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

mateok said:


> What do you mean it's just the bearing, it's separated from the bushing and is stuck on the shaft? If you've compressed the spring, removed that &%$*# slotted nut, it should all fall on the ground so you can never find it again.
> 
> It's very easy to convert to the VR setup.
> http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Suspension/198/1


Yes it has separated from the bushing and seems to be stuck on the shaft. I did not compress the spring to remove the strut. What tool do I use to remove the slotted nut?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

You must compress the spring to remove that nut. The tension will make it impossible to turn it. There's a special slotted socket used for that purpose. Lacking that you have a few options. 1. A flathead screwdriver and a hammer, tap, tap, tap around and around. 2. You can cut notches in a standard socket to fit it. 3. Needle nose vise grips or pliers (if you have enough room). 

These are the little #*%&


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

1broknrado said:


> Exhaust question:
> 
> 90 g60 body, 24v vr6 lugtronic standalone soon to be precision 6165 turbo.
> 
> ...


bump


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## German Juggernaut (Jan 26, 2005)

*G60 Won't Start*

1991 Corrado G60 - I need help finding a fuel line. Called over 6 suppliers including the dealership, everyone is discontinued or out of stock. 

I'm no expert, but I know the basics; I couldn't figure it out, so I had a local shop I trust look into it. 

Car cranks but won't turn on; fuse for the pump is good, relay, fuel filter, and fuel pump are all brand new. Shop said it's likely the line - I've spoken to germanautoparts, the local vw dealership, and four other local import part suppliers... fuel lines just don't exist. 

They think it's the line going from the pump to the fuel filter - I did some searching, but no dice. 
Kinda desperate at this point. Hope you guys know where I can find one-


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

German Juggernaut said:


> 1991 Corrado G60 - I need help finding a fuel line. Called over 6 suppliers including the dealership, everyone is discontinued or out of stock.
> 
> I'm no expert, but I know the basics; I couldn't figure it out, so I had a local shop I trust look into it.
> 
> ...


Remove and inspect before your purchase, my .02


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Interesting conclusion they settled on. That's just a hard plastic pipe with a couple short rubber lines crimped at the ends. Its failure could only be that it's pinched, leaking, or blocked. 

There really shouldn't be any guesswork involved in that conclusion. Take the fuel filter off and attempt to start the car. I'm assuming that they started at the fuel injectors and worked back to the pump looking for fuel. The other way is also fine. I have doubts that that's the problem, though. Anything large enough to clog that line would've been caught in the pump screen and starved it out. Anything is possible, though. 

If that's indeed the problem you can't get a new one (you already know that). There's numerous possibilities here. You can snag a hardline off a junk yard car. You can run all rubber from the pump (make sure it's top quality line). You have to get creative with the Corrado now, as we've been abandoned by VW.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

1broknrado said:


> Exhaust question:
> 
> 90 g60 body, 24v vr6 lugtronic standalone soon to be precision 6165 turbo.
> 
> ...


I have no experience with 24V exhaust but, I'll bump you back to the top:thumbup:


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Shop thinks it's the fuel line? Why not disconnect the line after the filter or at the fuel rail and check for pressure to verify the psi?

Any hard line can be made or duplicated. Get a pic of what's going on. Always a solution there is padawan.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Just disconnect both ends of the fuel lines and use compressed air to ensure there are no issues. Do this with everything. Verify the in tank fuel lines aren't split too.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Ok, here is a problem that I could use help with. I removed the plastic flange that the CTS's sit in on the front of my G60 engine block so I could look inside and check for any of the weird crap I found in my radiator. When I went to put it back on, I discovered that the bolt hole on the engine block, top left, is stripped out. The flange also appeared to have had RTV black liberally applied on it before. So I first tried to retap the hole, no luck then I got Black RTV and sealed it as best as I could with that. This was not leaking before I tore it apart, and I have not refilled and checked it for leaks yet. My question is, is there a better way for dealing with this, and what does the system usually run at pressure wise so I can test it before I risk it on the road. Thanks guys.


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

mateok said:


> I have no experience with 24V exhaust but, I'll bump you back to the top:thumbup:


Thank you. I don't think it is that specific to the 24v motor itself, I believe it should be the positioning and size of muffler and or resonator on the car itself because of the length. I read somewhere there are mathematical equations you can do to figure out how much pipe you need to cut or add (placement of muffler) will change where the drone occurs.


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Ok, here is a problem that I could use help with. I removed the plastic flange that the CTS's sit in on the front of my G60 engine block so I could look inside and check for any of the weird crap I found in my radiator. When I went to put it back on, I discovered that the bolt hole on the engine block, top left, is stripped out. The flange also appeared to have had RTV black liberally applied on it before. So I first tried to retap the hole, no luck then I got Black RTV and sealed it as best as I could with that. This was not leaking before I tore it apart, and I have not refilled and checked it for leaks yet. My question is, is there a better way for dealing with this, and what does the system usually run at pressure wise so I can test it before I risk it on the road. Thanks guys.


http://www.timesert.com/


----------



## palakaman (Oct 8, 2006)

I'm wanting to put in a taller 5th gear. But I don't have the means to change the R&P during the swap.

I'm running the stock tire size. At the moment I'm turning about 3k at 65mph. What 5th gear ratio would get drop my RPM down by around 500 RPM at speed?

Or am a going at this totally wrong and will ruin my car?


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

oil leak continued.

i replaced the pressure switch, but the oil filter housing is still getting very wet. it appears to be the lower half only, now that the pressure switch is no longer leaking. its pooling and dripping, and seems to be leaking mostly when running/right after running. the upper half, near the switches, looks to be fairly clean now, but I cannot see the backside. any immediate thoughts.. I was hoping to try some other things before replacing the whole flange (https://sites.google.com/site/stoyn...ge-replacement-associated-gaskets-and-sensors)


----------



## Corradosforlife (Nov 21, 2013)

*Oil Leak*

Oil Cooler Seals? Pretty common and cheap parts.


----------



## Corradosforlife (Nov 21, 2013)

It is a a straight swap, including swapping peddle clusters. You may want a bigger master cylinder for the VR when you put the non-abs set up in her.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

jewnersey said:


> oil leak continued.
> 
> i replaced the pressure switch, but the oil filter housing is still getting very wet. it appears to be the lower half only, now that the pressure switch is no longer leaking. its pooling and dripping, and seems to be leaking mostly when running/right after running. the upper half, near the switches, looks to be fairly clean now, but I cannot see the backside. any immediate thoughts.. I was hoping to try some other things before replacing the whole flange (https://sites.google.com/site/stoyn...ge-replacement-associated-gaskets-and-sensors)


Post pictures man.

You are going o have to loose more oil (just a little bit) in order to replace both of the little gaskets. 










Did you replace both of the switches?

How mine was










This little puddle accumulated within a couple seconds of running the car.

This is how it looks now


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Corradosforlife said:


> Oil Cooler Seals? Pretty common and cheap parts.


It's the oil filter housing section that looks like its producing the oil leak.


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

Here are a few pictures. From the top it looks okay after only replacing the left switch. From the bottom, it looks like Everything surrounding the housing is getting wet but everything from the black up is not.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Pm'd


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

Never ending problems. 

Was trying to bleed my brakes today. Went to rear passenger first, removed wheel, opened valve, brake depressed, heavy fluid flow, tightened, brake up, opened brake down, flowed for a second, then nothing.. resevoir is above Max. Pumped brakes... nothing tried other side. Nothing.. is it clogged.. nothing looks to be flowing from the reservoir, in fact it almost looks like its pumped itself back into the reservoir...

....been reading.. does the key need to be on... (93 slc)


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

"...For the rears you need to jack up the rear axle beam a bit under the shock on the drivers side to load the valve on the rear axle. If you don't do this the proportioning valve will not allow any fluid to go through to the rear calipers so make sure to do this. Once you have loaded the axle beam you can put your hose & jar on the rear calipers then have your assistant turn the ignition to on. When the ignition is on you just open the rear bleeder valve and allow the ABS pump to push the fluid out. Make sure to allow the ABS system to pump fluid for 20 seconds at the max with another 20 seconds of rest." - Dennis - CCC

Note: If the ABS pump runs for longer than two minutes after start-up, turn the car off and allow it to cool for ten minutes. Repeat until it fully pressurizes.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Are the polarities right?
(Vr6 fog lights)


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

mateok said:


> "...
> 
> Note: If the ABS pump runs for longer than two minutes after start-up, turn the car off and allow it to cool for ten minutes. Repeat until it fully pressurizes.


Thanks will try this when I get a chance


----------



## palakaman (Oct 8, 2006)

I'm going to bump this to the new page...

I'm wanting to put in a taller 5th gear. But I don't have the means to change the R&P during the swap.

I'm running the stock tire size. At the moment I'm turning about 3k at 65mph. What 5th gear ratio would drop my RPM down by around 500 RPM at speed?

Or am a going at this all wrong or the bad outweigh the benifits?


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

palakaman said:


> I'm going to bump this to the new page...
> 
> I'm wanting to put in a taller 5th gear. But I don't have the means to change the R&P during the swap.
> 
> ...


I think most go with a .72 gear from a TDI


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

palakaman said:


> I'm going to bump this to the new page...
> 
> I'm wanting to put in a taller 5th gear. But I don't have the means to change the R&P during the swap.
> 
> ...


I think most go with a .72 gear from a TDI 

http://www.fourseasontuning.com/?category=5


----------



## palakaman (Oct 8, 2006)

1broknrado said:


> I think most go with a .72 gear from a TDI
> 
> http://www.fourseasontuning.com/?category=5


and I can utilize that without changing the R&P? If so thanks for the info.


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

palakaman said:


> and I can utilize that without changing the R&P? If so thanks for the info.


I've never heard of anyone changing the R&P. Just swapping out the 5th gear.


----------



## palakaman (Oct 8, 2006)

Awesome. thanks for the info.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

palakaman said:


> Awesome. thanks for the info.


Just pull your 5th gear cover off and pull both gears out and press in your gear of choice. You don't even have to crack open the transmission :thumbup:

I'm using a TDI 5th gear. pulling 80mph at 2700 RPMs


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

HavokRuels said:


> Just pull your 5th gear cover off and pull both gears out and press in your gear of choice. You don't even have to crack open the transmission :thumbup:
> 
> I'm using a TDI 5th gear. pulling 80mph at 2700 RPMs


True. ^^^ No need to pull tranny to change 5th gear.  Just to add. There are 3 types TDI fith gears setup. .72 from passat TDI, .75 from jetta TDI either in 02A-02J transmission. There also .68 that most TDI guys like to use!


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Hello guys. I recently got my fog lights to work but that only lasted a couple of days. 

While I was driving they just turned off.
First thing I did was check the fuse panel and see if any fuse blew.
The only one I did see that blew was number 10 which is a 15a amp fuse. I went ahead and installed a new one in. I then turned on the fogs and they only lasted a second.

My Bentley manual says, that slot (number 10) is. "Open"..........










Why does it keep blowing?
Also, could it be the polarities are mixed up and causing this?










This is how they are set up. 

My relay? 









They do turn on for a sec and then burn the fuse.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

The Bentley barely recognizes the existence of fog lights. Disregard their nonsense about #10 being open. They don't even provide a current track, let alone a fuse. The only reference is this pathetic attempt at a relay explanation. Yea, thanks for the relay and fuse - with nothing going to it?








This is a much better effort. 








Anyhow, I can't really tell how those wires are attached in your picture. The yellow wire is + and brown is, well, you should know that by now. It's been a while since I've opened mine up but, the yellow should go to the bulb and the brown attaches to the housing. I know the G60 has a red boot instead of black to help identify the power. 

S10 is the fuse for the fog lights. It runs through a relay in pos.10 stamped "53". That's a general purpose relay. If the fuse is popping as soon as power is applied, that's usually a dead short to ground. Check the fog wiring harness' for breaks.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Mateok, I once again thank you for looking out for me.
I did reopen the fog lights and I notice I forgot a clip covering the connection to the fog light (yellow with the actual fog and brown to the metal clip) and it was touching the other connection. I threw some new insulated terminals and hoped for the best.
I tested the relay with another connection next to it, number 11 which is for the horn and it worked.


So far they have stayed on. 
Thanks mateok.


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

Bleeding brake woes continued. ..

I believe I am doing what Dennis at ccc had said. I read through that thread and compared to the Bentley but still can't get it to flow. 

Jacked it up at the rear shock.


















Person in car. Me at rear passenger caliper. Brakes pumped and held. Open bleeder valve. Turn key for power. No flow.

Here's the Bentley. Not sure what lever it's taking about.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Not sure why you're having trouble. Unless the proportioning valve itself is kaput. Pressing the lever on the valve would accomplish the same thing as jacking up the rear axle. 

It should look something like this.








Reach under there and give it a love tap. This is straight from the ATE manual (they made that hunk of junk). 

Rear axle:
- Ignition off.
- Press brake pedal approximately 20 times (to empty high-pressure accumulator) until there is a noticeable increase in pedal force.
- Attach bleeder bottle, rear left and loosen bleeder screw by one turn.
- Fully depress brake pedal and hold it down with pedal locking device.
- Ignition on, high-pressure pump running (pay attention to running time max. 2 min !).
- Close bleeder screw when brake fluid emerges with no bubbles.
- Check brake fluid level.
- Release brake pedal.
- Wait until high-pressure accumulator is full (high-pressure pump switches off).
- Ignition off.
- Attach bleeder bottle, rear right and loosen bleeder screw by one turn.
- Press brake pedal slightly.
- Close bleeder screw when brake fluid emerges without bubbles.
- Release brake pedal.
- Ignition on.
- Wait until high-pressure accumulator is full (high-pressure pump switches off).
- Check brake fluid level.


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

Could it be the pump itself isn't working. With the ignition on I don't hear anything pumping. 

In fact, and probably should have mentioned this earlier, the brake and ABS light had been going off and on regularly while driving for months now. I thought nothing of it because the brakes never changed; they have been mushy for a while. There also had been a subsequent hissing/squealing noise that would start 20 seconds after turning on the engine, and stop for a couple seconds each time i pressed the brake. 

I have had to drive it as is after some of the rear fluid has been discharged and the brakes are obviously terrible (have to apply serious amounts of pressure) but the lights will occasionally go off and it will brake like it used to.


Edit:: I'll start here
http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?p=105804
And here
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-lights-coming-on&highlight=abs+parking+brake


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

So the 178 relay is not clicking on but the 79 relay is. I believe 178 is the pump relay which may explain part of the problem. I pulled it and the contacts look good. I will try to find a replacement in the classifieds. Is there something else i can check ahead of that relay that might rule out the relay as the problem?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Checking motor relay
- Ignition off.
- Pull plug off controller.
- Check leads from controller plug term. 14 and 32 to hydraulic motor relay. That's the R/W and W wires respectively. 
- Check pump motor resistance.
Set value: < 1 Ohm
- Check resistance of solenoid (motor relay). terminal 85 -> terminal 86. That's across the two terminals. Like this:








Set value: 50...100 Ohm
The relay pictured is 71.7Ohms (within specs)
- Check diode in motor relay.
- Check all ground connections.

Checking controller voltage supply - Check all fuses.
- Ignition off.
- Pull plug off controller.
- Check ground connections at controller plug. Terminals 1, 11 (brown wires (ground) -> body ground Set value: < 0.5 Ohm. 
- Ignition on and start engine.
- Check voltage supply at controller plug. Terminal 2 -> body ground
Set value: 11...15 V
- Check leads for loose contacts

Have you attempted to blink codes yet? I can tell you how to test every component of that system but, it's easier if it just tells you instead.


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

Thanks. Very technical but I will try to work through some of this tomorrow. 

I have not pulled the codes and am having a hard time finding instructions on how to do so...I found that section in the Bentley so I guess I need the vag tool or to take it to a shop


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

vwgolf_chik said:


> I have an '03 Golf 2.0 with 173k put on it. I am in the process of replacing parts that I know need to be replaced...either due to wear, or it's just time.
> 
> I have had bad o2 sensors for quite some time and replaced them today (YAY!)
> Meanwhile, for the past few weeks, I have been experiencing some start up and idle issues. For example, on some days my car will start briefly then die. I don't even have time to hit the gas to see if she keeps going. She'll do this a couple times before I let her sit for a few min....then once she's relaxed, she'll start right up and be good to go. Other days, she will take a bit to turn over...she will just crank for 10-20 seconds, finally turn then idle a bit high. The idle will return to normal after maybe 2-10 min. Most days though, she starts up good and tight.
> ...


Hmm... You appear lost. 
Well, I'm a VW tech so, I'm down with your car, as well, whatever. 

That's a common complaint with your platform. I've found many, many reasons causing your condition. I would suggest scanning it for codes. I guarantee that that bad o2 sensor won't be alone in there. 

Top two reasons for your condition are; bad MAF P1128 (or it's circuit P0102) and bad coolant sensor or it's circuit (cant remember that one off hand). I keep a known good example of both in my box for diagnostic purposes. 

Autozone will scan your car for free.


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## SicGTI (Sep 22, 2013)

I hope someone can shine some light on this matter. I purchased a VR6 Corrado a week ago and drove it from Cali where I purchased it back to Vegas where I live. It drove great, drove awesome all week then all of a sudden last night, in driving home, and it started to chug and stall out and the check engine light came on. Had a hard time restarting but finally got it to start and made it home which was about 2 blocks from my house. Now it barely starts and won't stay idled and that's that. Can anyone shed some light on what it can be ? My mechanic is out of town until next week. Thanks for any and all input.
It's a 92 corrado with the vr6 motor


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## vwcarney91 (Aug 15, 2010)

*EPC and no start*

2001 VW golf 2.slow manual trans. AVH I can replace parts, that's basically it.

Just went out to start the car. I turn the key over but did not turn to start it up and the epc light was off. I turn the car over and it just turns and turns and turns without startup. I switch it off and turn the key to on again and this time I hear a loud click noise from the engine bay with the hood up and the epc light comes on, i turn the key over and it starts right up. I switch it back off and turn the key on again with the same loud click from the engine bay and epc light comes on, I turn the key over and it starts up. Fourth time, no click from the engine bay and will not start up. So, what makes an audible click in the engine bay before the car is started? Is there anything I can test while I wait for the relay to come in the mail.UPDATE: Car starts with starting fluid, only did this to test for spark, but does not stay on.

Here is what I have replaced:
Fuel pump with filter
fuel relay 409 i believe
coil pack
plugs and wires
ECM relay 428
Checked voltage from two of the injectors, most of my tools are at my dad's house an hour away, they read 3.44V on each injector. Confirmed fuel pump is priming to injector rail by removing line in the engine bay and turning car to on position.

All fluids are at correct levels
Guy at autozone said he checked what ambient temp the car was reading and it seemed right.

P0605 Internal control module read only memory error
P0420 Catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1
P1296 Cooling system malfunction
P0230 Fuel pump primary circuit

Any help appreciated


----------



## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

I thought this was a help thread for CORRADOS ONLY? :screwy:


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## SicGTI (Sep 22, 2013)

I hope someone can shine some light on this matter. I purchased a VR6 Corrado a week ago and drove it from Cali where I purchased it back to Vegas where I live. It drove great, drove awesome all week then all of a sudden last night, in driving home, and it started to chug and stall out and the check engine light came on. Had a hard time restarting but finally got it to start and made it home which was about 2 blocks from my house. Now it barely starts and won't stay idled and that's that. Can anyone shed some light on what it can be ? My mechanic is out of town until next week. Thanks for any and all input.
It's a 92 corrado with the vr6 motor


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## smoothaseggs (Jul 5, 2011)

*1990 sunroof*

Could not find my answer
Did corrados only come with metal sunroofs or was a glass moon roof available. My G60 has a glass panel and desperately needs a new seal. I can only find a new seal for metal sunroof.
Any help appreciated


----------



## BLUE NRG (Oct 31, 2000)

smoothaseggs said:


> Could not find my answer
> Did corrados only come with metal sunroofs or was a glass moon roof available. My G60 has a glass panel and desperately needs a new seal. I can only find a new seal for metal sunroof.
> Any help appreciated


all corrados came with metal roofs. if you have a glass, it was probably replaced by the PO with a mk3,b4,b5 passat sunroof. or some aftermarket jammy


----------



## smoothaseggs (Jul 5, 2011)

That makes sense
The glass is sekurit p/n
43R-001090
Gonna try to find what this came off of and where I can
find a seal


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

Blinked out my codes:
1234 and 2111
So nothing ABS related.

Still working on using the MM to check that relay.

Want to try this, but not sure which slots to jump: 

"If only the ABS system relay is clicking over you can pull out the pump relay and either jump it or remove the cover and then close the 'breaker points' inside to activate the pump and see if your brake boost comes back. If your boost comes back then you know the pump is good and you will need to look at the relay to see if it is damaged or check the pressure switch." -Dennis at CCC. ( http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?p=107957 )


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## VWFSZ (Feb 13, 2004)

*OBD wires dash*

Hello I am bringing a Corrado back to live and the other owner cut several cables out of the dashboard.

Does anyone have any idea wich cables should I look for to rewire the OBD connector so I can scan the car ?

they should have some color or does any one where they are connected to bring new lines ?

Another question the RPM in the instrument are not working where should I look for ?

It a corrado 92 VR6 with distributor all OEM 

thanks


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

jewnersey said:


> Blinked out my codes:
> 1234 and 2111
> So nothing ABS related.
> 
> ...


There's a control side (85 & 86) and a load side (87 & 30). 87 (R/BK) wire(s) powers the component (ABS pump). 30 provides the power from the battery (through S53 - 30A). Jumping terminals 87 & 30 should power the pump. 

Those numbers won't be on the relay socket. You'll see 2 & 8 or just orientate the relay.


----------



## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

VWFSZ said:


> Hello I am bringing a Corrado back to live and the other owner cut several cables out of the dashboard.
> 
> Does anyone have any idea wich cables should I look for to rewire the OBD connector so I can scan the car ?
> 
> ...


Most than likely, the Original owner chopped wires for the radio.. posting pics of the cut wires would help.. I made a thread about it a couple of days ago. 
Post pics there.. 

your scanner connectors should be where the obd2 connector is on this pic. 








follow those wires to the fuse box and see if you find any plugs disconnected.


this is what those wires lead to.. make sure is connected.


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

mateok said:


> There's a control side (85 & 86) and a load side (87 & 30). 87 (R/BK) wire(s) powers the component (ABS pump). 30 provides the power from the battery (through S53 - 30A). Jumping terminals 87 & 30 should power the pump.
> 
> Those numbers won't be on the relay socket. You'll see 2 & 8 or just orientate the relay.


Jumped it and something is clicking on and running. Guess the relay is the culprit. Thanks very much mateok, you need a donate link. If you've got one, I'd like to send you over a beer or two for all the help over the past 8 months :thumbup:


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

No problem, man. I received a lot of help myself back in the day. I'm just paying forward all the free "service" I got from CCA, CCC, and the old 'tex.:beer:


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## hi_racing (Jul 6, 2004)

mateok said:


> No problem, man. I received a lot of help myself back in the day. I'm just paying forward all the free "service" I got from CCA, CCC, and the old 'tex.:beer:


Long live the CCA!  I still have one of those stickers on the windshield.


----------



## VWFSZ (Feb 13, 2004)

xtremevdub said:


> Most than likely, the Original owner chopped wires for the radio.. posting pics of the cut wires would help.. I made a thread about it a couple of days ago.
> Post pics there..
> 
> your scanner connectors should be where the obd2 connector is on this pic.
> ...


thanks a lot


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

*FV-QR*

Ok I have a power steering question. How interchangeable are the power steering pumps from a G60 and a TDI? My TDI pump took a poop and I have 2 G60 pumps and a few MK2 pumps. Will they fit my TDI?
TDI is a 1997 Passat TDI.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

The G60 pump will physically fit in the TDI brackets IIRC. I think the high pressure hose has a different size banjo bolt thus a different line is required. The angle of the low pressure hose barb is a little different (not enough to matter)

I know that when I swapped a TDI engine I kept the tdi PS pump and swapped in a Mk3 PS line so I guess you would need a G60 PS line to do the swap.


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

*FV-QR*

I have a G60 pump and power steering line. So you are saying I can swap the line and the pump and it should work?


----------



## Houpty GT (Feb 23, 2011)

I can't find a thread that I thought was on here. It was about an instrument cluster that was built with a colored array for the EGT or boost and it was drilled into one of the gauge faces. Do you know what I am talking about?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Houpty GT said:


> I can't find a thread that I thought was on here. It was about an instrument cluster that was built with a colored array for the EGT or boost and it was drilled into one of the gauge faces. Do you know what I am talking about?


Yes, and that was a 1 of a kind cluster built in Europe. YouTube still has the videos. And I think you are confusing it with a few different clusters, it was merely a shift light based off RPM.


----------



## Houpty GT (Feb 23, 2011)

It was or is this.










http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=365413&highlight=instrument+cluster+egt


----------



## Klamath (Jun 18, 2010)

Right,.. Here's a tough one for the experts.  (at least,Around here noone even knows it exsists,. So I'm really hoping someone around here knows. )

Alright, I've got myself a Original detachable towing hook for my Corrado about 2 years ago now.
the towing hook works like a charm, and also the lighting is no problem.
However, I've found a nice ABS light unit, that also had an indicator light for the towing hook. (should blink with the indicator lights when a trailer is connected as I understand it. )









This is the unit I'm using now.

The connector on the back has all pins wired, and as far as I can tell, they all go to the fusebox.
So I'm wondering what do I have to change to get this <-1-> indicator light to work?

The only thing I've found so far is that relay 21 is for the indicators, and relay 22 is for the indicators with a towing hook. But when I look at pictures of a Relay 22, it also only has 4 pins. (Hoped it would have 5 pins, 1 extra for the indicator light. but that doesnt seem the case)

I'm from the Netherlands myself, and as far as I know this indicator light is very uncommon around here, but fairly common in the US. (in the Passat and Mk3 its also used I believe? )
So I'm really hoping someone around here knows.


----------



## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

*Did early Corrado's come with a sliding panel under the sunroof?* 

I sure cant find any available in the classified section. 

Thanks for yr help :thumbup:


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

No sliding panels. Only early cars with Passat moon roof conversions that have sliding panels under the glass.


----------



## Mr.corrado. (Dec 19, 2013)

*1993 slc corrado 24v*

Recently picked up a 93 slc corrado first vr ever owned. So my problem.the cluster never worked except the warning lights right side. Bought a bently to read up on it
I diagnosed it down to the voltage reg chip on cluster did some research and just picked up a same year passage ob1 cluste same as original minus the corrado 
Tach I made sure it all worked and took for test drive the oil light flashes with horribly anoying beeps oil full just changed and flushed yesterday. MFA reads oil temp a tad bit hot 
185*f the oil bar seems relatively good. My understanding is the beeping oil lights for oil pressure? Anything before 2400rpm fine no beep or light flash on start up
other than when you would put key in (normal) please help its knarly anoyying I deliver pizza all day and am soon for a syc ward if this persist's. What may I have to replace plz and thanks


----------



## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

Mr.corrado. said:


> Recently picked up a 93 slc corrado first vr ever owned. So my problem.the cluster never worked except the warning lights right side. Bought a bently to read up on it
> I diagnosed it down to the voltage reg chip on cluster did some research and just picked up a same year passage ob1 cluste same as original minus the corrado
> Tach I made sure it all worked and took for test drive the oil light flashes with horribly anoying beeps oil full just changed and flushed yesterday. MFA reads oil temp a tad bit hot
> 185*f the oil bar seems relatively good. My understanding is the beeping oil lights for oil pressure? Anything before 2400rpm fine no beep or light flash on start up
> other than when you would put key in (normal) please help its knarly anoyying I deliver pizza all day and am soon for a syc ward if this persist's. What may I have to replace plz and thanks




you have 2 oil sensors on top of the oil filter housing.. one is for low press and the other for high. If when you are building the engine/putting it back together you cross them, you may get the beeping on the wrong times.. try switching the wires around and see if that takes care of it. 
VR corrados run high oil temps, so 185 is actually more than nice.
If the oil press switch is bad, is cheap new http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/EngineElectrical/150/2


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

scrapper said:


> *Did early Corrado's come with a sliding panel under the sunroof?*
> 
> I sure cant find any available in the classified section.
> 
> Thanks for yr help :thumbup:


Right, only glass panels have sliding panels (which the Corrado never came with). Steel sunroof panels have a panel that tilts up with the sunroof and slides back with the sunroof as one unit.


----------



## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

Hey thanks :thumbup:


Does anyone know if you can purchase the chrome levers that allows the sunroof to roll backwards? The one like this one but other side.










Also how do you remove and replace? It appears that you disconnect the spring and pull the cable but i'm unsure has anyone done it.


----------



## [email protected] (Dec 13, 2013)

scrapper said:


> Hey thanks :thumbup:
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if you can purchase the chrome levers that allows the sunroof to roll backwards? The one like this one but other side.
> ...


I think EPP has a repair kit, if not VW had one, might want to check 1stvwparts.com :thumbup:


----------



## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> I think EPP has a repair kit, if not VW had one, might want to check 1stvwparts.com :thumbup:


^^dont listen to that newb!!! He only has 122 posts!!!! Hahhaha


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

xtremevdub said:


> ^^dont listen to that newb!!! He only has 122 posts!!!! Hahhaha


And it's all SPAM 


As far as the Rocker piece, they are held on with a small C Clip and wound with a Torsion spring. I don;t recall if you can change it w/o taking the whole thing apart, but I seem to recall that you may be able to by just sliding back in the inner panel (Follow procedures in the bentley for doing this on the Fixed steel stock sunroof *EDIT: it looks liek you already did this*). When you do this, you may need to unbolt the sunroof panel (or maybe not) and access the rockers (I Forget exactly or you may just need to tilt the SR up). Their sliders that they connect to are famous for breaking though and you need to remove the whole thing and take it apart to change.

You may want to consider biting the bullet and getting both side repair kits if you want to do it right. Other than that, I do have a pile of various spare parts if you are sure you need just the rocker.


----------



## [email protected] (Dec 13, 2013)

xtremevdub said:


> ^^dont listen to that newb!!! He only has 122 posts!!!! Hahhaha


:laugh: 123 posts now 



sdezego said:


> And it's all SPAM


:laugh:

Shawn, I thought you had done this, thanks for chiming in :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## corrado-g60 (Aug 13, 2013)

*Audio and then some!*

Hey Guys,

I haven't posted in some time, been busy with school and work + working on my car. I still love my G60, even though its costly. So here we go. I am not sure if i have a aktiv thing in my car, if i do its coming out, I was going to have best buy put my radio in and maybe the speakers, but then I thought maybe i should do it so they dont fry anything. I found memphis audio speakers that will fit. I dont want them destroying my precious. On that note, is installing new speakers difficult in the corrado? Should i put new wire in or use the old wiring? 

One more thing, I noticed i am getting oil in my lower boost hose, is this normal? and if it is, does that oil get burned off when it gets through the intake? 

Thanks a bunch!

Corrado Boy!:laugh:


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

[email protected] said:


> I think EPP has a repair kit, if not VW had one, might want to check 1stvwparts.com :thumbup:


The repair kit that VW sells does not work on the B3/B4 roof units. The length of the front drip tray clip (red arrow)is too long. The B3/B4 unit is in the top of the pic. The base of this repair kit is too wide to fit in the B3/B4 unit also. Not sure if it's made for a steel sunroof or a B5 moonroof but no workie on the B3/B4 moonroof. After you disassemble it let us know what odd and ends you need. We'll comb through the box of scraps for you.

EPP/ECS REPAIR KIT ES#303472 (VW # 1H0898017A) http://www.ecstuning.com/ES303472/
&
EPP/ECS REPAIR KIT ES#303474 (VW # 1H0898018A) http://www.ecstuning.com/ES303474/


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## 2g60s (Apr 16, 2012)

dumb question, I've looked and found mixed results, so I'll ask. my vr swapped early 90 corrado everything works except the tack, how do i get it to work? can I get it to work?


----------



## John Y (Apr 27, 1999)

*OEM part retailer recommendations?*

Hey experts, I'm on the verge of a long and potentially major restoration project on a 93 SLC that belonged to a family membr who has passed away; I'm sure I will be coming here for all sorts of advice, over time.

For starters, who do you recommend as a source for OEM parts? In terms of range of available items, prices service quality who's good

Thanks in advance...


----------



## 2g60s (Apr 16, 2012)

what parts?


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Last time I swapped heads on my old Corrado I noticed that I had a dual row timing chain with two double row sprockets on top.
Are they usually like that?

Because today I noticed something.......


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

I think VW dropped the double row chains around '96. That would be an expected discovery on a '92 VR6. What did you find...chains made out of gold?


----------



## 2g60s (Apr 16, 2012)

double row chains went to mkiv


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

obd2 vr6 is single chain in mk3 though.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Lol.....gold!!! Hahah 
That made me choke on my hot chocolate!

I have a 92 obd1.

I checked, single roooow.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> Lol.....gold!!! Hahah
> That made me choke on my hot chocolate!
> 
> I have a 92 obd1.
> ...


Nice, somebody hooked you up:thumbup:



2g60s said:


> double row chains went to mkiv


I've done quite a few MK4 chains. I've never seen a double on a '99.5+ VR6.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

So, this is supreme?

Someone told me that this is an upgrade and these are quieter than a double row chain?


----------



## 2g60s (Apr 16, 2012)

I meant to, as in to '99. not through mkiv


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

I'm not tracking how they did this or why it is better. Seems like more people would be changing over to single if it was better…but this is the first I've heard of it.
Thanks, JD


----------



## ljacob (Oct 19, 2007)

*mounting an Odyssey 1200MJT?*

found a question ref mounting an Odyssey 1200MJT battery in a Corrado, but not really a solid answer. How is the mounting for this battery? It'd be going into a 1994 VR6. Anyone have this battery, and how did mounting in the stock location go? need to replace a dying battery - even with a disconnect, my current battery in my rarely driven 94 is dead a couple of days after a charge. Thanks in advance, -lj


----------



## bunkkaws (Feb 7, 2008)

Interesting things has been happening since it's been stupid cold out.

So now my drivers side door won't latch close. When I close the door it latches but doesn't latch the second time for the door to tightly close. So I can move it about 1.2 inch when it's shut. I looked at the latch and the latch pin and both look good. Compared it with the other side and the "hook" on the latch is the same, I can move the latch correctly with my finger to both positions. Even slammed the door shut and it still latches once. 

Anyone ever had this before? Time for a new latch or could it be something inside the door?


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Is the striker loose? I can't remember if those are riveted together or not, the latch. It's rare but, there's a pin that's spring loaded inside that holds the "arm" against the striker. If that gets out of position it won't latch properly. 

Try moving the arm through it's motions with a screwdriver while working the door handle. Use gratuitous amounts of lube.:thumbup:


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Wrap the striker with duck tape, not too much.


----------



## the mad conductor (Nov 12, 2009)

blackslcchild said:


> Wrap the striker with duck tape, not too much.


Stop typing. Duct tape belongs on Hondas, not corrados


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Houpty GT (Feb 23, 2011)

Houpty GT said:


> I can't find a thread that I thought was on here. It was about an instrument cluster that was built with a colored array for the EGT or boost and it was drilled into one of the gauge faces. Do you know what I am talking about?


Here is the exact thread were I originally saw it. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=388014 

You will notice that the Passat cluster is the same size as the Corrado and has a custom warning lights added


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

the mad conductor said:


> Stop typing. Duct tape belongs on Hondas, not corrados
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's a temporary fix, till he gets a new striker pin with the plastic surround. Geeeez


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

"Interesting things has been happening since it's been stupid cold out.

So now my drivers side door won't latch close. When I close the door it latches but doesn't latch the second time for the door to tightly close.

*use rubber hose (approx 3/4" ID) around the post in the door jam that receives the catch. or, simply buy the "white"-ish colored factory parts from the dealership (they are still available) pix of my old ones from the dealership (BNIB) here... http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...y-revealed-(not-that-it-is-a-big-deal)/page27*


So I can move it about 1.2 inch when it's shut. I looked at the latch and the latch pin and both look good. Compared it with the other side and the "hook" on the latch is the same, I can move the latch correctly with my finger to both positions. Even slammed the door shut and it still latches once. 

Anyone ever had this before? Time for a new latch or could it be something inside the door?
*
as posted, use a lot of lube, but use a Water Displacing lube (read WD-40) as the reason things get slow acting in the cold is moisture and freezing. i have driven to work MANY MANY MANY times in UBER cold temps with a bungee cord across my lap, attached to the pass door, holding the driver door shut cause it was frozen with the latch ""open".... truth. *"


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

Houpty GT said:


> Here is the exact thread were I originally saw it. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=388014
> 
> You will notice that the Passat cluster is the same size as the Corrado and has a custom warning lights added


those "custom" lights are for a factory diesel car bro, they are not "custom" at all. yet could be used for a multitude of things. 

in my 3rd VRT they were wired in for my K40 Radar system to how me where the cops were. i know others have used them for shift lights, boost, tach, etc, like you mentioned. 

peep this...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFXUG0qO6O8

this guy makes clusters and kits for just about anything you want too....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3D1AwCcU_KY#t=0

hope that helps.


----------



## bunkkaws (Feb 7, 2008)

mateok said:


> Is the striker loose? I can't remember if those are riveted together or not, the latch. It's rare but, there's a pin that's spring loaded inside that holds the "arm" against the striker. If that gets out of position it won't latch properly.
> 
> Try moving the arm through it's motions with a screwdriver while working the door handle. Use gratuitous amounts of lube.:thumbup:


Thanks man, I am suspecting this! Oh I have plenty of lube available.....and WD-40 too.



blackslcchild said:


> Wrap the striker with duck tape, not too much.


Actually took this advise and gave it a shot, unfortunately it didn't work. The door strikers are new as of last summer and still look really good. 



the mad conductor said:


> Stop typing. Duct tape belongs on Hondas, not corrados
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You have a point, took off the duct tape after ^^^ test failed



Noobercorn said:


> "Interesting things has been happening since it's been stupid cold out.
> 
> So now my drivers side door won't latch close. When I close the door it latches but doesn't latch the second time for the door to tightly close.
> 
> ...



Thanks again! I am glad everyone knows what I am talking about since it was hard to describe.

Next step is to take off the door card, work the handle and watch the motions while testing.

The zinger is that the door handles are shaved, so I suspect that the setup might also be interfearing, or the popper is staying too retracted, etc. etc. 

Also, bungee cord tool added to the glove box :beer:


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

bunkkaws said:


> Thanks man, I am suspecting this! Oh I have plenty of lube available.....and WD-40 too.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


sooooo, we should have known he doors were shaved bro. that could open a WHOLE NEW can of worms. the solonoids could be bad/sticking/need adjustment. 

there are a whole bunch of things man, if i were you i would post pix of the innards of the doors. then i can see what you have going on bro.


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## Houpty GT (Feb 23, 2011)

Noobercorn said:


> those "custom" lights are for a factory diesel car bro, they are not "custom" at all. yet could be used for a multitude of things.


I was talking about the EGT warning light which is not factory.


----------



## Bridge (Oct 19, 2013)

*92 slc idling poorly*

My corrado (slc vr6 (1992)) is idling a little rough even after warming up (doesn't seem to warm up that quickly either) but will drop and climb between 800-100 rpm and stall out and die. I have experience with cars but not so much European. 
Not too sure if temp. sensor could it , the MFA (thinking this is bad) shows a low temp after 10-15 minutes and the radiator fan does not switch on either..

Any insight? 
Greatly appreciated.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

Bridge said:


> My corrado (slc vr6 (1992)) is idling a little rough even after warming up (doesn't seem to warm up that quickly either) but will drop and climb between 800-100 rpm and stall out and die. I have experience with cars but not so much European.
> Not too sure if temp. sensor could it , the MFA (thinking this is bad) shows a low temp after 10-15 minutes and the radiator fan does not switch on either..
> 
> Any insight?
> Greatly appreciated.


vacuum leak, ISV should be deleted, and you may have a fueling issue. do you have vag-com and the 2x2 cable for the early cars? this tells you (very little, yet important) information that could remedy this. 

still, vacuum sounds effed up. easy check is to use starter fluid and spray lines while car is running (CAREFULLY) and see if the motor's RPMs go up. when they do, you found your leak. repair, lather, rinse, repeat.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

*Aftermarket Stereo and Security System*

I have a '92 Corrado SLC and it came with an aftermarket stereo. How do they typically disable the OEM security system when putting in an aftermarket system. I want to check it out at some point and make sure all wires, etc. are connected well.

Also, my vehicle has an AKTIV system. All the speakers are toast (dry rotted). Should I keep the system as AKTIV or get rid of it? I'm assuming it is still set up as AKTIV since the original speakers are still in the doors. Looking for a good thread to review on this topic…thanks and sorry if this has been beat to death in the past…haven't found what I was looking for, JD


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## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Im in the middle of the 4-channel abs upgrade; however, i have the old model clutch master cylinder and there is not enough clearance between the brake booster and the clutch master. I looked into the newer style master, but the connection at the pedal is different. Is my only option a newer pedal set or are there other options?


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

http://www.jgajewski.org/www.corrado-club.com/aktiv/index-2.html
Old, old school. I first read this...man I'm getting old.


----------



## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

Thanks:thumbup:


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

So. Saw my coolant was a little low (slightly below min) yesterday, but didn't want to deal with it, not realizing that the 3 degree temps would cause my hood release to freeze/break. 

So. First, will I be okay driving with the coolant low, just paying attention to the temperature.

Second, is the hood release broken or just frozen. When I pull the handle, I feel resistance and it's making noise but the hoods not budging.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

JDCorrado said:


> I have a '92 Corrado SLC and it came with an aftermarket stereo. How do they typically disable the OEM security system when putting in an aftermarket system. I want to check it out at some point and make sure all wires, etc. are connected well.
> 
> Also, my vehicle has an AKTIV system. All the speakers are toast (dry rotted). Should I keep the system as AKTIV or get rid of it? I'm assuming it is still set up as AKTIV since the original speakers are still in the doors. Looking for a good thread to review on this topic…thanks and sorry if this has been beat to death in the past…haven't found what I was looking for, JD



*as posted above, you can disable it by removing the "amps" off of each speaker, or if you were me, REPLACE THEM ALL. i have rear speaker trays in all colors if needed. *




jewnersey said:


> So. Saw my coolant was a little low (slightly below min) yesterday, but didn't want to deal with it, not realizing that the 3 degree temps would cause my hood release to freeze/break.
> 
> So. First, will I be okay driving with the coolant low, just paying attention to the temperature.
> 
> Second, is the hood release broken or just frozen. When I pull the handle, I feel resistance and it's making noise but the hoods not budging.


*coolant is of course important, yet if your car has ANY in it, it will likely be fine in these colder temps Ol' Mother Winter is bringing us. get the hood open, and get coolant in there ASAP when ya can of course. 

you can pop the hood a million ways: through the grill, from under the car (reaching up and physically pulling the cable, ripping the grill OFF and pulling the cable, etc. we ALLLLLL have done some crazt shit to get a hood open!! 

peep the FAQ's, under "exterior". also, it is a good practice to make a "double zip-tie chain" around the hood cable that can be grabbed through/ from behind the grill with a bent hanger. this ensures your hood is NEVER stuck, as you can open it with little effort. 

i also suggest the (i think it was GRUVEN who made it) Billet hood fixer... it goes IN THE CAR, and makes life a million times better for this sort of thing....


here ya go......... http://www.gruvenparts.com/billet-corrado-hood-cable-clip/

great piece of kit right there!!!*


----------



## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

Thanks for the info. For some reason I was thinking the radio security had something to do with shutting down the vehicle, but it seems to be just to detour radio theft (radio won't work without the code).

I needed all the other info that was posted as well, thanks again, JD


----------



## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

Does anyone know where i can get VDO wiring harness ?
It´s for this piece;


Been looking at ebay for a long time, but I cant find it.. Maybe my search is bad..

And if I somehow get the wiring harness - will this fit my G60 89 ? Or do i need to do the rest of the wiring myself ?
This VDO are for vr6 originally, arent they ?


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

You're looking for this, NLA. Classic Parts now sells the cubby harness for the G60. the last part number for the VR cubby harness is 535 971 052 BB. I'm sure that's changed by now. I got one off the classifieds years ago. I'm sure someone has one that's willing to sell.


----------



## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

Thank you!
But I cant find it on the classic parts site ??
Maybe i just try the classifieds


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## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Das.Rado said:


> Im in the middle of the 4-channel abs upgrade; however, i have the old model clutch master cylinder and there is not enough clearance between the brake booster and the clutch master. I looked into the newer style master, but the connection at the pedal is different. Is my only option a newer pedal set or are there other options?


Not a common swap? Anyone know if a smaller booster is compatible?


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Das.Rado said:


> Im in the middle of the 4-channel abs upgrade; however, i have the old model clutch master cylinder and there is not enough clearance between the brake booster and the clutch master. I looked into the newer style master, but the connection at the pedal is different. Is my only option a newer pedal set or are there other options?





Das.Rado said:


> Not a common swap? Anyone know if a smaller booster is compatible?


I've been down a similar path and I think I know a couple of hardwork options:

-Use a pedal and or cluster from a later corrado/passat and switch to a late clutch master cylinder. The later master cylinders cost more
-use a G60/16V Passat/(can't recall if the mk2 works, it probably does but I suffer from CRS) Brake booster and then use a Mk4 ABS system, 1997 Passat ABS lines (they have 10x1.00 and 12x1.00 fittings) rebent to go from the G60 Master cylinder to the ABS master cylinder and a custom rebent mk4 abs bracket.

I tried a mk4 brake boost and ran into the same issue:










Here is what I ended up with: 









The ABS on this car was GREAT!










On another swap I changed the clutch master cylinder pedal because I had a 1997 TDI Passat pedal cluster and didn't want to be forced into buying the more expensive clutch master cylinder. 

































While you are in there go ahead and install a metal heatercore:

















For what its worth I plan to install mk4 ABS on my current TDI corrado:


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Nice work:thumbup:


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

So my ABS issue came back and I don't have brake assist, very hard braking. This time only the ABS light is on and the pump definitely is not going, all the fluid is backed up into the res. It's either the pressure switch or accumulator. 

But also, my clutch is now acting odd. It was catching super early and was soft, and now it's sticking about halfway and shifting hard, this issue is off an on, not constant.

Are they related because they pretty much started at the same time.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

The only thing they share is the reservoir. You should bleed the clutch with the ignition ON with ABS to ensure the system is primed and the fluid doesn't drop. Your's isn't working so, the fluid shouldn't drop, anyhow. 

Crawl under the dash with a torch and inspect the master boot for fluid. If good, take the slave out of the gearbox and inspect it. No pedal pressure means brake fluid is escaping somehow.


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

mateok said:


> The only thing they share is the reservoir. You should bleed the clutch with the ignition ON with ABS to ensure the system is primed and the fluid doesn't drop. Your's isn't working so, the fluid shouldn't drop, anyhow.
> 
> Crawl under the dash with a torch and inspect the master boot for fluid. If good, take the slave out of the gearbox and inspect it. No pedal pressure means brake fluid is escaping somehow.


Thanks as always. Bleeding procedure is the same as the brakes I assume, and will it still work if the system is not primed? 

And I'm honestly not sure what master boot you speak of. I've spent lots of time under the dash digging at the rats nest of wires but have never seen anything containing fluid.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

The clutch function is unaffected by the operational status of the ABS (provided the reservoir is full). The Teves 02 is such a piece of junk, VW decided it best to allow the brake fluid to fall at 32 feet per second, per second down to the clutch. In other words, it's gravity fed.

This has pictures of the master cylinder. Ironically, it's right below this thread. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3458482-Master-Slave-cylinder-replacement-how-to-write-up


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

Catch can advise

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6892045-24v-vr6-Catch-Can

Please and thank you.

Tim


----------



## xamx (Feb 9, 2010)

quick and easy quatinos for you guys..
I recently purchased a 93 corrado.. with a 70k vr in it.. whooopie.. as a Daily while Im in the middle of putting a vr in my mk1. 

well I have 2 questions
the prev owner had told me about the rear brakes locking up when e-brake is used.. is this just like all mk1,2,3's where I should just replace the cables? he had said it's pretty common and just not to use the e brake..
me being neurotic I want everything working figured id ask
brake question part 2.. the ABS light comes on when you hit 75-80mph. then doesn't go off till you turn the car off and on again.. 
I've had this issue in almost all my mk3's cause of wacky wiring but again figured I'd ask.

and last but mainly the reason I'm writing all this.
I was planning on rolling the fenders, I have rolled a few cars prior but was gonna have a buddy of mine do it as he's the local roller, quicker does a few cars per week and frankly hes just got more experience .. another friend had explained that I shouldn't have him do it that corrado fenders are a pain in the @ss to roll and you end up with wavy fenders cause of the thick metal any info on this?

thanks!!!


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

xamx said:


> quick and easy quatinos for you guys..
> I recently purchased a 93 corrado.. with a 70k vr in it.. whooopie.. as a Daily while Im in the middle of putting a vr in my mk1.
> 
> well I have 2 questions
> ...



The rear brakes freeze up exactly how you remember them. Moisture gets on the linkage and the cable from the disintegrated boots and freezes. Inspect the piston boot for heat damage because of it. I would go ahead and replace them with MKIV one's at this point, one and done. 

The temporary ABS light will still be stored as a sporadic fault. I would blink codes. Possibly bad/intermittent wheel sensor(s). They're stored based on priority so, there might be a few to write down. You can also disconnect and reconnect every electrical connection for the ABS to remove the corrosion that usually causes electrical irregularities. 

I have zero experience rolling fenders so, I'll defer to this. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...heel-arch-(fender-)-rolling-flaring-look-here.


----------



## VR Vote (Sep 26, 2005)

hows it going..? 

Question, might be quickly answered. but im deployed so I have no quick way to check myself.

Im trying to find out what -AN size is closest or the same as the oem fluid lines for our reservoirs. be it the brake and clutch fluid...


trying to order the replacement lines from treadstone performance as seen below. they have several different sizes and figured id ask before I just blindly bought a few different in bulk.

http://www.treadstoneperformance.co...tings:+Black+Nylon+Braided+Light+Weight+Hoses


thanks for any help given.


----------



## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

In parallel to this ^^^^
Can someone break down a diagram of what parts would be needed for a VR6 fuel line set-up with AN fittings and lines. Some of the fuel line sections under the vehicle are NLA and I wasn't sure why the system needed so many junction points...for example, couldn't you run one line from the fuel filter to the fuel rail?


----------



## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

G60ING said:


> While you are in there go ahead and install a metal heatercore:


What really can be done to improve that wiring situation in the Driver footwell? You need all the wires, so do you go through and tape each pigtail up and label or what...and why? Wow is it a mess.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

JDCorrado said:


> What really can be done to improve that wiring situation in the Driver footwell? You need all the wires, so do you go through and tape each pigtail up and label or what...and why? Wow is it a mess.


Spend the 16-20 hrs of labeling, organizing, and installing like I did  

A Bentley manual at that stage is imperative!! 

Gimme a sec, I'll show you my "before and after"... The likeliness is uncanny...

Edit: link that helps a ton.... http://a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html

edit #2: Pix as promised......


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

JDCorrado said:


> In parallel to this ^^^^
> Can someone break down a diagram of what parts would be needed for a VR6 fuel line set-up with AN fittings and lines. Some of the fuel line sections under the vehicle are NLA and I wasn't sure why the system needed so many junction points...for example, couldn't you run one line from the fuel filter to the fuel rail?


Keith broke it down YEARS ago bud....  

http://www.tdnparts.com/ss-fuel-line-kit-vr6/

Couple that with Gruven's parts, and you have a bulletproof, attractive looking setup...

http://www.gruvenparts.com/billet-vr6-fuel-line-support-brackets/

As for under the car, SS braided bulk line from your favorite auto supplier and some AN fittings and yer set for good. 

However, if NLA on factory lines, try a different car  (cough: MK3 :cough


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

Noobercorn said:


> Keith broke it down YEARS ago bud....
> 
> http://www.tdnparts.com/ss-fuel-line-kit-vr6/
> 
> ...


How do you connect the AN fittings to the OEM plastic fuel tank? This is where I am confused.


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

1broknrado said:


> How do you connect the AN fittings to the OEM plastic fuel tank *AND OR RUBBER HOSING*? This is where I am confused.



um............


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

Ahhh Barbed fitting for the rubber hose and assume thats 1/2 NPT threading to be able to adapt to an AN line? Or do they make a barbed fitting with AN end on it?

Ps. Hi Mike, haven't seen/talked to you in YEARS!


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

1broknrado said:


> Ahhh Barbed fitting for the rubber hose and assume thats 1/2 NPT threading to be able to adapt to an AN line? Or do they make a barbed fitting with AN end on it?
> 
> Ps. Hi Mike, haven't seen/talked to you in YEARS!


you can get AN barbed fittings in all threads you desire. 

And, how art thou!?!?! i have been protecting Gotham for some time now, thus my absence. I'm Batman.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

CamberKraut1.8t said:


> hows it going..?
> 
> Question, might be quickly answered. but im deployed so I have no quick way to check myself.
> 
> ...


Sorry to hi-jack Camberkraut1.8t's request above....he was looking for specific AN sizes of brake and clutch fluid reservoir hoses. eace:


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

Noobercorn said:


> you can get AN barbed fittings in all threads you desire.
> 
> And, how art thou!?!?! i have been protecting Gotham for some time now, thus my absence. I'm Batman.


Awesome! I believe the best route to go would buy all the fittings seperately and then buy Braided fuel line on ebay, like 40ft maybe? That would be enough for feed and return. 

Batman, we applaud your efforts. :laugh:


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

So, you'd have to CLAMP a small section of braided fuel line to both ends of the fuel filter (for example), then add an AN connector to the end of the braided fuel line? It would be cool to avoid all clamps but guess not.


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

JDCorrado said:


> So, you'd have to CLAMP a small section of braided fuel line to both ends of the fuel filter (for example), then add an AN connector to the end of the braided fuel line? It would be cool to avoid all clamps but guess not.


I don't think the fuel filter fitting is large enough to fit a braided line.

The way I'm thinking it has to be done is to have a small piece of rubber hose connected to the fuel filter like normal, then when it switches to a hard line, cut it there. Insert the hose into the barbed fitting with the -6an Male end (or -8AN) and run from there. I'd also put a clamp on the rubber hose end of the barbed fitting for security.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

1broknrado said:


> How do you connect the AN fittings to the OEM plastic fuel tank? This is where I am confused.


Like this ->









...see here and other places I posted about this http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2805002-Project-Build-sc2020/page16

..and here -> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5423823-New-small-project&highlight=surge+tank


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

Wow thats an awesome little product you made there!

Side question - if I install an upgraded fuel pump and surge tank blah blah in prep for my turbo setup, can I still run the car NA with the extra fueling until its boosted? I would imagine it woul djust work like a normal pump and the regulator would keep pressure at the rail correct until I do an ADJ FPR and need the extra fueling. 

I know its overkill for an NA setup, but I like to do small projects in prep. so that I won't have to do it later one when I am focusing on the turbo setup.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

^ Yes, no problem. Fueling is determined by the fuel pressure regulator, so you would just be returning a larger volume of fuel back to the tank. Rail pressure will remain the same.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Here is the closest thing I have to an after:

















The plugs aren't too bad to install with a bentley and a little coaching from people that know how to read the factory diagrams.


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

sdezego said:


> ^ Yes, no problem. Fueling is determined by the fuel pressure regulator, so you would just be returning a larger volume of fuel back to the tank. Rail pressure will remain the same.


What did you do with the third line from the tank, the vaccuum air something or another. On my g60 it had a carbon canister connected to it, now its just sittig in my engine bay.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I'm going to replace all the bushings on my front lower control arm.
I've been told to swap the stock Corrado versions with the ones in a r32. 

What would be the ideal combo for this?


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

blackslcchild said:


> I'm going to replace all the bushings on my front lower control arm.
> I've been told to swap the stock Corrado versions with the ones in a r32.
> 
> What would be the ideal combo for this?


Just order the r32 bushing kit and press them in. Not sure what else would be considered ideal?


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

New braking issue. 
No lights, ABS is functioning (I could feel it clicking in the snow today), but still no assist.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

1broknrado said:


> Just order the r32 bushing kit and press them in. Not sure what else would be considered ideal?


The polyurethane ones in the front and the r32's in the back? (Vice versa)


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

blackslcchild said:


> The polyurethane ones in the front and the r32's in the back? (Vice versa)


Nah. Poly is not a comfortable ride AT ALL because there is absolutely no give. The r32's are nice and stiff but have some give to them so it feels nicer/smoother going down the roads. 

...that's what my i've gathered from my experiences with the both.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Sweet, thanks for your feedback^^^.

I had bought the stock ones at a local auto store (for Corrado) but I looked at them and they looked so sketchy! Little holes on the outside of the ring. 

I bought some online already.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hello, I have a little clarification question to ask. I searched it to no avail. I have a G60 I bought third hand and have been slowly getting her back in shape. Recently when replacing the rear shocks I discovered, much to my shock, that I actually have central locking. up till now I thought I did not have it because I never heard anything work. Turns out the pump was unplugged. Getting to the issue, when I turn the key in either door, the pump activates just fine, and the trunk lock and unlock properly. The front doors though neither lock nor unlock. This is obviously a vacuum leak, so in the interest of trying to narrow down the area from between the pump to the front doors, I had a question.

Is it true that the leak must be between the T off to the front doors and the pump, meaning somewhere in that orange line that spans to length of the car? If this is true, then it will make my job easier. If not, then I am no worse off. Or could there be another cause for this that I am missing all together? Thanks all. 

BTW if I activate the pump and use my finger to seal it off at the pump, it pretty much stops right away. Again thanks for all the help I have gotten from everyone while I have worked on this car.


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

When I had that issue in my car, it turned out to be the vac line inside the door was unplugged. Can you hear it hissing from the door?


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

I would assume the previous owner(s) disconnected the pump because there was a leak. All the locks (doors, gas, and hatch) must lock within two seconds of turning the key or pushing the knob. If there's a leak or the linkage isn't adjusted properly, it'll run for about 30 seconds and shut off. Either way, it will shut off. It's pointless to disconnect the pump. 

I bet the seatbelts were sucking the life out of the battery and the pump was mistakenly diagnosed and disconnected. 

I wouldn't say it's an obvious leak just yet. You need to verify both door locks are receiving 12V. You'll need someone to lock the doors while you check for voltage as the readings are taken from the pump control module 12-pin connector. 

A hand held vacuum pump will make short work of finding any leaks. Based on three previous owners, who knows what you'll run into.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey mateok, your probably right right about the seat belts, they came to me with the relays pulled as they stick and I haven't had the time to clean them. Quick question though, if there was no power at the pins then would it still activate the pump when the door was locked? You see I can activate the pump from both doors and the pump then locks the gas cap door and trunk lid. If there was no power would this work? Thanks a lot.


----------



## plynch (Aug 30, 2006)

hello, I'm sure this has been covered already somewhere in 265+ pages, but just to save time I have a 92 slc with a metal sunroof. It is all jacked up and won't slide back and one corner is up - question I have is when doing the moon roof upgrade- I've heard I can use the passat b3/b4 sunroof glass- can I use the whole assembly from a mk3 gti as well? or just the glass in a Corrado slider/assembly? I have every thing from a 98 gti I could use if so. thanks again.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

plynch said:


> hello, I'm sure this has been covered already somewhere in 265+ pages, but just to save time I have a 92 slc with a metal sunroof. It is all jacked up and won't slide back and one corner is up - question I have is when doing the moon roof upgrade- I've heard I can use the passat b3/b4 sunroof glass- can I use the whole assembly from a mk3 gti as well? or just the glass in a Corrado slider/assembly? I have every thing from a 98 gti I could use if so. thanks again.


you can technically use the gti crap on the corrado, but the glass is shaped like a bubble, when the corrado panels are way more flat. So basically use the Passat you mentioned unless you dont care about having a tumor on top of your car.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Hey mateok, your probably right right about the seat belts, they came to me with the relays pulled as they stick and I haven't had the time to clean them. Quick question though, if there was no power at the pins then would it still activate the pump when the door was locked? You see I can activate the pump from both doors and the pump then locks the gas cap door and trunk lid. If there was no power would this work? Thanks a lot.


The door latch sends the signal to the pump to start so, you have power. Sounds like a vacuum leak as you thought. The hose connectors are the weak points. They turn to mush with age. There's a lot of connections to check.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

As always mateok, thanks for the assist. I have looked over the vacuum line from the pump to the T connector going to both doors and it looks fine. I and thinking maybe the T connector has a crack as neither front door will lock but both activate the pump. I am hoping/thinking there is not a vacuum leak behind the dash, other wise one of the doors would lock. Thanks again.


----------



## Dorrado (Dec 12, 2001)

So I was pulling the dash out to fix some wiring and some broken plastic tabs. When I pulled the cigarette lighter out this piece of plastic came out as well....uh, what is it?

It is a newer style interior with the round heater controls.

Any ideas?

Thanks


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

Correct me if I'm wrong, but that looks like one of the many plastic pieces that I believe is supposed to 'carry' the light from the bulb to the front of the dash at various indicators like the thermostat and in this case the AC controls.


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## the mad conductor (Nov 12, 2009)

jewnersey said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong, but that looks like one of the many plastic pieces that I believe is supposed to 'carry' the light from the bulb to the front of the dash at various indicators like the thermostat and in this case the AC controls.


:beer::beer::beer:


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## Dorrado (Dec 12, 2001)

jewnersey said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong, but that looks like one of the many plastic pieces that I believe is supposed to 'carry' the light from the bulb to the front of the dash at various indicators like the thermostat and in this case the AC controls.


Thanks for the info. I am probably pushing my luck but would anyone happen to have a part number? (probably NLA)

I have been looking at different diagrams and cant seem to find the correct part number.

Thanks for all the help!


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

That's not a spare part but, you have options. 








http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5996&start=50&sid=e216ca1f2b6e7d6608e2dbc2a33a693b


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

All right, I have determined that the leak in m central locking system must be at the T connecter in the front that splits off the line to both front doors. What is the best way to get to this fitting? I can only fit one hand in there, and I can't unhook anything, and I am afraid to pull too hard, so what should I do to get to it? Thanks guys.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

Quick easy question. 

I wanna know if the sunroof switch (early style) turns on the LED to illuminate it with the light on 
or just with the ignition on, just like the window switches????


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

Quick question which has been beaten to death....


but i've searched and i can't decide which Magnaflow muffler to go with. I don't understand how there are so many different model #s. 

Which would be best for a 3" system? 

What is the biggest (muffler length) that will fit in the Corrado? 16"/18"? 

Does the length of muffler affect drone? If so, which would be best for loudest without drone? (No cat 3" system)

Thanks,
Tim


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

*Fog Light Wire Harness; Crumbly Wire Insulation*

Most of the wire harness I've seen is in decent shape (insulation pliable), except for this... When taking off my bumper, I noticed the fog light wire harness at both ends on the PA and DR sides has wire insulation falling off. The harness has a nice black rubber sleeve protecting 95% of it, but both ends have crumbly insulation like m&m candy coating.

I'm thinking --> Tape up each end and call it a day (Copper wire is good) or find options for replacing new?
Possibly this? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/put-230004hw/overview/
Thanks, JD


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Go this route or similar. If you get 3:1 ratio *marine *grade (adhesive filled/waterproof) heat shrink you can slide right over the damaged wire and it will be permanent and cosmetically correct. This stuff comes in colors if you search. It's 10-20X more if you buy it from the boat store. Buy some to put over your ground straps in the engine bay. I did all mine to save my hands from getting bloody'd up. They look better than new.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Black-Adhesive-Glue-Lined-Heat-Shrink-Tubing-4FT-Marine-Tuner-Motec-AEM-25MM-/321308605890?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&vxp=mtr&hash=item4acf7c3dc2


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

ArchAngel4 said:


> All right, I have determined that the leak in m central locking system must be at the T connecter in the front that splits off the line to both front doors. What is the best way to get to this fitting? I can only fit one hand in there, and I can't unhook anything, and I am afraid to pull too hard, so what should I do to get to it? Thanks guys.


Just replaced the lines on those t fittings at the cowl on the g60. Ended up disconnecting it at another fitting so the t/Y connector would be able to be pulled away from the cowl area. Use a razor to slit the vacuum hose off the fitting. Mine had some kind of adhesive on it. The hoses blew off the connector a day later since the OE fittings ARE NOT BARBED but flared small at the tip and larger as the hose slides on!?!? That's why the factory used adhesive. I reattached everything with white glue and let it sit over night. That did it.

It was the red fitting below that had adhesive on it. Here's the link if you want to use OE vacuum line and OE Oetiker clamps on the cheap ... THE Vacuum Line Replacement Thread


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

Can this evaporative emissions cannistor and lines be eliminated from the '92SLC Rado?
http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/show...1729&ukey_driveLine=8034&ukey_trimLevel=18933

Cap off at the gas filler hose end?

Thanks, JD


----------



## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

xtremevdub said:


> Quick easy question.
> 
> I wanna know if the sunroof switch (early style) turns on the LED to illuminate it with the light on
> or just with the ignition on, just like the window switches????


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

JDCorrado said:


> Can this evaporative emissions cannistor and lines be eliminated from the '92SLC Rado?
> http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/show...1729&ukey_driveLine=8034&ukey_trimLevel=18933
> 
> Cap off at the gas filler hose end?Thanks, JD


My bad for not laying this out well. This is for the vacuum line T that feeds the doors actuators on a VR. I've made the assumption the T fitting that ArchAngel4 is referring to is the same type as the red version pictured above (without barbs) with OE style Otiker clamps and adhesive securing the vacuum hose.


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

xtremevdub said:


>


FWIR, that light only come on with the headlights.


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

JDCorrado said:


> Can this evaporative emissions cannistor and lines be eliminated from the '92SLC Rado?
> http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/show...1729&ukey_driveLine=8034&ukey_trimLevel=18933
> 
> Cap off at the gas filler hose end?
> ...


Yes.


----------



## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

1broknrado said:


> FWIR, that light only come on with the headlights.


No one knows for sure???? I need to know if I am blowing LED's or if my switch is defective. I changed all the other switches in the car to LED's. This is the only one giving me issues.


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

Just want to bump my continued brake problems. 

ABS is working, no lights, but no brake booster. 

I checked all the hoses and it looks like everything is in order, or at least nothing is obviously disconnected. Fluid is good. Brakes were recently bled.


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

jewnersey said:


> Just want to bump my continued brake problems.
> 
> ABS is working, no lights, but no brake booster.
> 
> I checked all the hoses and it looks like everything is in order, or at least nothing is obviously disconnected. Fluid is good. Brakes were recently bled.


By process of elimination, it could be the actual booster. As it works as a vaccuum source, it has a diaphragm inside it that can dry out and crack.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

There's a problem with the pressure accumulator. The ABS/ EDL are separate components from the brake assist.


----------



## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

Thank so for replying guys. 

This all started with me thinking it was the accumulator (there was a hissing noise coming from the ABS pump) but I thought it all changed when the light went out and the ABS started working just as brake assist disappeared.


----------



## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey petethepug, thanks for the reply. One quick clarification, I was referring to the T-connector that is inside the car that the hard plastic line runs to directly from the Central Locking Pump. It is on the passenger side and way up against the wall. I can barely touch it with one hand, and, as it has hard plastic lines running to and from it, I am scared to try to pull on it to get it to where I can disconnect it. 

Another question that has come up recently, I have been fighting with my fuel pump for a while. The gauge will read less than 1/4, and when filled up, will only take 8 or so gallons. Also when it reads low, and I make a sharp right turn, the engine nearly chokes out. For a few seconds it feels like I dropped 2 or so gears, I am thrown against my seatbelt, and the engine struggles to do anything. Then I get fuel back, and it behaves normally. It will do this same thing on hills, but not when I am turning left. I figure it is the fuel pump, as I have the original Piersburg pump, in it, and it is in a rather sad shape. I found someone parting out a 90 G60 that he had blown the head on. His fuel pump is inn much better shape. 

My questions are, is my conclusion that the fuel pump and sender are causing this problem logical, and looking at the picture of the available fuel pump below, how much trouble would it be to use this one? The guy mentioned that there were no problems with the pump when the car was running, and he is parting it out because he is getting an SLC instead. He wants $60 for both the pump and sender together. Thanks a ton guys.


----------



## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

anyone know if these are for the wiper or ecu ?


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

All of those are for the ECU. Grind them out. The wiper assembly attached with one bolt on the driver side.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Although the fresh air intake cover is held in place by a sticky gasket, you might want to retain it's studs.


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## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

1broknrado said:


> All of those are for the ECU. Grind them out. The wiper assembly attached with one bolt on the driver side.


geat exactly what i wanted to know. thanks.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Hey petethepug, thanks for the reply. One quick clarification, I was referring to the T-connector that is inside the car that the hard plastic line runs to directly from the Central Locking Pump. It is on the passenger side and way up against the wall. I can barely touch it with one hand, and, as it has hard plastic lines running to and from it, I am scared to try to pull on it to get it to where I can disconnect it.
> 
> Another question that has come up recently, I have been fighting with my fuel pump for a while. The gauge will read less than 1/4, and when filled up, will only take 8 or so gallons. Also when it reads low, and I make a sharp right turn, the engine nearly chokes out. For a few seconds it feels like I dropped 2 or so gears, I am thrown against my seatbelt, and the engine struggles to do anything. Then I get fuel back, and it behaves normally. It will do this same thing on hills, but not when I am turning left. I figure it is the fuel pump, as I have the original Piersburg pump, in it, and it is in a rather sad shape. I found someone parting out a 90 G60 that he had blown the head on. His fuel pump is inn much better shape.
> 
> My questions are, is my conclusion that the fuel pump and sender are causing this problem logical, and looking at the picture of the available fuel pump below, how much trouble would it be to use this one? The guy mentioned that there were no problems with the pump when the car was running, and he is parting it out because he is getting an SLC instead. He wants $60 for both the pump and sender together. Thanks a ton guys.




*Post some pics of the trouble spot in your vacuum lines.*

Don't install a used pump. They like their dark, isolated environment entombed in lethal petrol and toxic vapors. Just like a good shipwreck find, the seals and components immediately begin to break down and degrade when removed from their moisturizing petrol fuel tank spa. Get a new one for $89, write out any future diagnostic issues and move forward. 

*Click the pic *


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

mateok said:


> Although the fresh air intake cover is held in place by a sticky gasket, you might want to retain it's studs.


ah yes good point! The far left 2 are to hold one side of the fresh air vent in. Unless you are deleting that as well, save those two.

Good call :beer:


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

1broknrado said:


> Quick question which has been beaten to death....
> 
> 
> but I've searched and i can't decide which Magnaflow muffler to go with. I don't understand how there are so many different model #s.
> ...


Bump this back up.


----------



## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

At the top right of the photo, does the metal bracket with multiple brown wires going to 3 posts (where there 3 nuts inline are) attach to the rearward side of the alternator? Not the alternator stud with the gray plastic cap to the left of the bracket in the photo, the other one to the right just below the nuts and yellow tape)? The PO had this one hanging loose


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

I've never seen that before and I've had my hands inside a couple of VR6 engines. It looks factory tooopcorn:


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

It's close to being in the right spot. It mounts right above the alternator in front of the block, below the intake.:thumbup:
EDIT: The intake bolt goes through that big hole on the end.


----------



## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey all, life has blindsided me again. It has been extremely cold here, -10, and my battery was killed at the same time that a fuel line froze. This happened Wednesday. This morning, it finally started, but is running really rough. I drove it around trying to warm it up, but as I was driving it, the oil light came on and started beeping at me. I pulled over, and checked the oil, and it is fine. All my fluid levels are fine, yet the car is still running rough. Any thoughts would be appreciated. When the battery died, I realized it was an 11 year old battery, and went ahead and changed it. It did nothing to help it start. Thanks guys.


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

If your fuel line froze then u got h20 in the system. Gotta get it out with an additive. Prolly no way to do it til +32F


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

its official I'm no VR6 expert


----------



## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

mateok said:


> It's close to being in the right spot. It mounts right above the alternator in front of the block, below the intake.:thumbup:
> EDIT: The intake bolt goes through that big hole on the end.


I see where the bolt is now, but was thinking it would need to be mounted to a ground since all the wires were going to one bracket. (I am electrically "declined"). 
So a follow on Noob question for my understanding:
Is it correct that the intake's bolt is not *grounded* and that is OK for this bracket to be mounted to it because it doesn't need to be *grounded*?


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

That intake bolt is most definitely grounded. I think you might be confusing circuit, chassis, and earth grounds. 

Simply put, electricity must flow through a component for it to work. It has to go somewhere when it exits. Since there's a lot of metal in a car, why not use it?. Instead of three wires, like a house, we can use only two and the car as a third. It can't go back into the actual ground because of the rubber tires. The engine block is grounded to the chassis which in turn is grounded to the alternator, and finally terminates back where it started, the battery. 

The wires attached to that bracket (ground bus) need to be grounded. I don't remember off hand what they go to, but those components won't work without a ground.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

This Corrado is going to spank me one day when I find myself with a real electrical issue. So when I get this thing grounded and start up the car after fixing the thermostat housing leak, I may be surprised what I find working again…can't wait.:beer:


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## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

get rid of this one too correct?







and this is only one for wipers?


----------



## The Dubbernaut (Feb 1, 2010)

*not new but needing help*

Well.....here we go....

A little back ground.... I have had my 90 Corrado since 2003. I drove it until I left the states in 2006, and when I would come home for "leave" I would start it up, run around town for the 6-12 days I was here. Although the poor guy was battered by the crappy roads in SoCal, he ran like a swiss watch up until about April 2012. Every time I would come home, and once a month while I was gone, my parents would start him up once a month and let him idle, or run to the grocery store. No matter what, first turn of the key and he would fire right up! Last April is when all the stupid stuff started happening and although Im mechanically inclined, reading the Bentley Manual isn't helping me figure out what is wrong. 

I drove the car for a couple weeks in early December before the fuel system started having problems. I say fuel problems only because when I started it up again after being down for pretty much a year, the spark plugs were black and the car would only turn over with some carb cleaner sprayed down in the cylinder. I would turn the car over until the battery would die but I would not kick over or start up at all. I popped both the fuel lines off the pressure regulator and fuel rail, turned the car over, and nothing at all would come out. 

THERE IS FUEL IN THE CAR! I know someone would be wondering this by now :laugh:

I have gone through the Bentley 3 times now, following the correct engine code for the G60. I have checked each, pump and relay/fuse, and cannot find a fault. 

Tonight, when I went to try the system again, after getting a new circuit testing light (just in case it was broke) I plugged the battery back in after a fresh charge and the car went nuts. As soon as I turned the key, the door alarm went off, the oil/temp light started flashing, and when I turned the key OFF, the car kept turning over trying to start. I pulled the key out (its still turning over trying to start) and ran around front, and pulled the battery cable off. 

I am at whits end with this guy. If ANYONE knows what could be going on or maybe causing this problem, please help. This is the only things I have done since the car started having problems in April:

Installed~(BBM stuff Ive been saving up)
ISV reroute kit
RSR kit
new headlight bulbs
howitzer intake
stainless braided upper fuel lines (not plugged up at all)
Can of sea foam and a full tank of premium fuel (there is only 1/2 tank left now)

Thanks guys!


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

Sounds like a bad ground or a bad ignition switch. My car was doing some crazy stuff like that and even the cluster would vibrate and sound.


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## The Dubbernaut (Feb 1, 2010)

xtremevdub said:


> Sounds like a bad ground or a bad ignition switch. My car was doing some crazy stuff like that and even the cluster would vibrate and sound.


Any suggestions on a starting point or direction?

I have a spare Corrado, another 90, but I can't do any ECU swapping (if thats the problem) due to the chip being installed for the neuspeed upgrades in it.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

The Dubbernaut said:


> Any suggestions on a starting point or direction?
> 
> I have a spare Corrado, another 90, but I can't do any ECU swapping (if thats the problem) due to the chip being installed for the neuspeed upgrades in it.


I think im gonna post in your new thread.... give me a few


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

So as of yesterday I'm getting a humming/vibrating from the front end. It changes with speed but does not seem engine related. It is slightly affected by bumps but not cornering.


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

The Dubbernaut said:


> Any suggestions on a starting point or direction?
> 
> I have a spare Corrado, another 90, but I can't do any ECU swapping (if thats the problem) due to the chip being installed for the neuspeed upgrades in it.


WHAT DID THE SEATBELT MOTORS DO WHEN THIS HAPPENED? this could speak volumes. 

or........

sounds to me like the load reduction relay is shorting/sticking, and rather than KILLING power to all the accessories and ONLY powering the IGN, it is sending power to all of the fun stuff. i mean, where else but IGN switch, and LRR do ALLLLLLL of these things come into play? the ecu. and if that is bad.......


if you must.... remove neuspeed chip from bad ECU, place in good ECU. it is a 16 pin chip. it takes a T20 torx bit to remove the 4 screws holding the ECU circuit board in its housing, then open the ecu (after the 10mm holding the ECU in the rain tray of course) and the chip has a half round "notch" on the edge pointing toward the driver side when installed. (you will know it when you see it, its LONG, and will likely have a sticker on it saying something about it (BOB WAS HERE 4/89, or NEU.4.5.. you get the idea. and if you don't, i can take a pic of a few i have here. just PM me.)

make sure you are GROUNDED (as in, static-electricity can fry ECUs, *uncommon*, *but possible)* so touch something metal before handling the chip. 

plop it in good ECU. install in car, rejoice. yes, it is that simple to change the chips in these ecu's......


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

jewnersey said:


> So as of yesterday I'm getting a humming/vibrating from the front end. It changes with speed but does not seem engine related. It is slightly affected by bumps but not cornering.


Probably my wheel bearing(s) based on what I've been reading, but mine is seemingly unaffected by loading either side.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Check your accessory pulleys. A bad water pump bearing, alternator, etc. can sometimes resonate into the cabin. Wheel bearings aren't fun when they seize, so have someone take a look if you aren't sure.


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

If I corner hard enough and unload the left wheel, the sound subsides so it very well may be a bearing.


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## 8vbunny (Oct 2, 2002)

jewnersey said:


> If I corner hard enough and unload the left wheel, the sound subsides so it very well may be a bearing.


Check your wheel nut. That keeps tension on the bearings when they are tightened to the proper tq. If the nut is tight, then its your bearing.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

That's most likely a bad bearing. Without disconnecting the half-shaft and using a stethoscope, it's difficult to isolate a bad FWD bearing (you might get lucky with a little moment). What you're describing would be enough for me to change it.


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## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

G60ING said:


> I've been down a similar path and I think I know a couple of hardwork options:
> 
> -Use a pedal and or cluster from a later corrado/passat and switch to a late clutch master cylinder. The later master cylinders cost more
> -use a G60/16V Passat/(can't recall if the mk2 works, it probably does but I suffer from CRS) Brake booster and then use a Mk4 ABS system, 1997 Passat ABS lines (they have 10x1.00 and 12x1.00 fittings) rebent to go from the G60 Master cylinder to the ABS master cylinder and a custom rebent mk4 abs bracket.
> ...


Thank you very much for the detailed response; I have decided on an ABS delete, lol.


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## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

Hey guys, I'm doing a cluster LCD colour change and want to obtain the black background with white numbers like the new Volkswagens/Audis. 

However, I'm wondering if I could get some advice on which method to use. Should I try the translucent coloured binder trick...or switch the polarization film and replace green LEDs with white LEDs? I have purchased a translucent duotang, closest to white that I could find, but I'm afraid that it will not turn out right and Ill have to re-start.

Cheers


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

6/1992 Corrado VR6 - Just checking things out while the Dash Panel is out. The only thing that isn't working electrically in the vehicle that I know of is the outside mirror adjustment --> Will be looking at my Bentley to find mirror fix this weekend.
1) This is the PO's Radio Harness Mess; Is there an aftermarket connector + wiring that will give me a clean start on this area? Especially the portion that connects to the white connector I'm holding. The radio works, but this is a mess that needs work.









2) What is this white connector for by Driver Door?









3) Fuses are a bit dusty and some were not pushed in all the way…Disregard blue wire hacked into the fuse…PO did it.
Anything you see abnormal other than that?


















Looking for any issues obvious to experts that should be addressed.
The car has 46,000 miles, and the wire integrity looks good so I don't plan to take all the connectors out of the fuse panel, etc


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

JDCorrado said:


> 6/1992 Corrado VR6 - Just checking things out while the Dash Panel is out. The only thing that isn't working electrically in the vehicle that I know of is the outside mirror adjustment --> Will be looking at my Bentley to find mirror fix this weekend.
> 
> 2) What is this white connector for by Driver Door?
> 
> ...


It appears to be a piggyback ground. There's a gazillion brown and combinations of brown (BR/W, BR/Y, BR/R, etc.) wires throughout the car. Some link multiple components together into one wire. Others are switched grounds. 

It looks unused. Early G60's and VR's have a lot of unused wires. VW had a lot of plans for the Corrado that never materialized or eventually did on later examples. The only BR/W wire found in the power mirror harness is in the door itself. That doesn't look related. 

S14 should be a 10A (red). There's a 15A (blue) in there. I'm sure it's no coincidence that that fuse happens to power the mirrors - PO surprise!


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

Thanks! :beer:


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Das.Rado said:


> Hey guys, I'm doing a cluster LCD colour change and want to obtain the black background with white numbers like the new Volkswagens/Audis.
> 
> However, I'm wondering if I could get some advice on which method to use. Should I try the translucent coloured binder trick...or switch the polarization film and replace green LEDs with white LEDs? I have purchased a translucent duotang, closest to white that I could find, but I'm afraid that it will not turn out right and Ill have to re-start.
> 
> Cheers


You'd be best off to shoot Luis an email @ [email protected]. He can help you get the backlit illum Spoonfed gauges you need and do the entire conversion flawlessly and seamlessly integrated into a stock cluster. He created the Audi Illuminated needle kit.


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## madonion (May 1, 2007)

*stock fuel pump flow*

I was wondering if anyone knows how much WHP can the stock dual fuel pumps setup from a 1990 g60 can support ?


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## the mad conductor (Nov 12, 2009)

Around 300


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

My temps stop working on my cluster. And is pretty scary driving the car not knowing if it could overheat. 

Any way of testing it? other than replacing the cluster?


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## the mad conductor (Nov 12, 2009)

Coolant temp sensor. 
Also do a continuity test on the wiring to confirm there is no breaks in the wires. You can do that on the 4 pin sensor


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## GazooVr6 (May 13, 2011)

*02m code on my trans 00 12v vr6*

is there any reason why this model would have a 02m? i thought they came with 02j's once again 00 gti glx.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

the mad conductor said:


> Coolant temp sensor.
> Also do a continuity test on the wiring to confirm there is no breaks in the wires. You can do that on the 4 pin sensor
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk












I have an ABA harness on mine, so I should have continuity on pins 2 and 4? on the plug?  Or in the sensor?
I put another sensor in and nothing by the way.


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## the mad conductor (Nov 12, 2009)

Just the wires. You should have a power and ground, then a dedicated voltage line for the sensor output. Basically pull the cluster out and find the coolant temp wire (can't remember the color) and install one lead on it. Then go to the coolant sensor plug and with the tester in continuity/ohm complete the circuit. You should have resistance or it should beep. Letting you know there's no breaks in the wire.

And why are you running an Aba harness? Chances are it's on the interior side. I had the same problem and my obd2 swap fixed it

Your meter is gonna be on this setting










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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

You need to check continuity at the cluster harness. Pin 23 (cluster harness) is the signal wire to the sensor.That wire goes to pin 4 on the sensor. Pin 2 on the sensor is the ground for that signal. Pins 1&3 do the same; only for the ECU. 

Hopefully your multimeter leads are long enough. It should beep if the wire's intact.


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## the mad conductor (Nov 12, 2009)

If not. Run a wire from the cluster to the lead to the meter.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey, I have a new possible issue I have been unable to confirm with searches. Recently, when starting from a dead stop, there is a shuddering feeling, like the tires are slipping badly. The tires are not new, but I wouldn't think they would slip that badly. I am not gunning it, and I get the feeling even in reduced amounts by slowly easing off on the clutch. Other than this, there are no real problem driving. It shifts through all gears smoothly, even reverse. 

The car goes into neutral just fine. I suppose I should mention it, but when I am going along, and I let off completely on the gas and coast in gear, then floor it, I hear a clacking noise. There is no slipping, no hesitating at all. I have not paid much attention to this. Thank you all in advance for the ideas and suggestions.


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## the mad conductor (Nov 12, 2009)

Does your clutch release really high?


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Hey, I have a new possible issue I have been unable to confirm with searches. Recently, when starting from a dead stop, there is a shuddering feeling, like the tires are slipping badly. The tires are not new, but I wouldn't think they would slip that badly. I am not gunning it, and I get the feeling even in reduced amounts by slowly easing off on the clutch. Other than this, there are no real problem driving. It shifts through all gears smoothly, even reverse.
> 
> The car goes into neutral just fine. I suppose I should mention it, but when I am going along, and I let off completely on the gas and coast in gear, then floor it, I hear a clacking noise. There is no slipping, no hesitating at all. I have not paid much attention to this. Thank you all in advance for the ideas and suggestions.


Everything you described sounds like you have a broken motor mount. Or too harsh of a motor mount. I changed the motor mounts on my golf and put a harder one on, and when I took it to get aligned, the tech cam back and told me that my clutch was bad.  because it would shudder in first. the day before with the old mounts it was super smooth. I ended up putting a hybrid mount not as hard and problem solved. 
Put the car in 5th and if you can move it, your clutch is good. :thumbup:


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

mateok said:


> You need to check continuity at the cluster harness. Pin 23 (cluster harness) is the signal wire to the sensor.That wire goes to pin 4 on the sensor. Pin 2 on the sensor is the ground for that signal. Pins 1&3 do the same; only for the ECU.
> 
> *Hopefully your multimeter leads are long enough*. It should beep if the wire's intact.


I was thinking the same until the comment below.



the mad conductor said:


> If not. Run a wire from the cluster to the lead to the meter.


I will try tomorrow and report. Thanks guys.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey Mad conductor, I do not believe that my clutch releases high. I have had the car for only about a year now, and it does not feel like it is looser or riding higher but with such short ownership, I can not be certain.

Xtremevdub, just to clarify, you mean put car in fifth and try to move it from a dead stop right? I had an issue a few moths ago where a bolt fell off my BBM front motor mount. The result was a little similar, but it would shudder all the way through third. 

Thanks for the input guys, it is appreciated.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

For the electrical geeks that want new pins for connectors: 

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=4292548&postcount=76


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Hey Mad conductor, I do not believe that my clutch releases high. I have had the car for only about a year now, and it does not feel like it is looser or riding higher but with such short ownership, I can not be certain.
> 
> Xtremevdub, just to clarify, you mean put car in fifth and try to move it from a dead stop right? I had an issue a few moths ago where a bolt fell off my BBM front motor mount. The result was a little similar, but it would shudder all the way through third.
> 
> Thanks for the input guys, it is appreciated.


yes. exactly that. I mean be easy on it and try to get it rolling. if it is slipping, it wont move.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

*Unused Connectors*

I believe these are the Unused Connectors for my '92 SLC; I'm reinstalling the Instrument Panel….


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey xtremevdub, I tested the clutch like you suggested, and with it in fifth from a dead stop gently easing back on the clutch the car starts rolling forward smooth as you please. I am trying to determine which motor mount is going bad. The shudder doesn't always seem to happen, it mostly occurs when I need to accelerate with plenty of torque, like on a hill, or just if I need to get through a light. How much should the engine move when I am starting the engine, or starting from a dead stop? I am trying to take some video, but it isn't coming out well, and I can't figure out how to measure how much the engine is moving other than eyeball it. Thanks again for all the help all, as always it is very helpful.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Hey xtremevdub, I tested the clutch like you suggested, and with it in fifth from a dead stop gently easing back on the clutch the car starts rolling forward smooth as you please. I am trying to determine which motor mount is going bad. The shudder doesn't always seem to happen, it mostly occurs when I need to accelerate with plenty of torque, like on a hill, or just if I need to get through a light. How much should the engine move when I am starting the engine, or starting from a dead stop? I am trying to take some video, but it isn't coming out well, and I can't figure out how to measure how much the engine is moving other than eyeball it. Thanks again for all the help all, as always it is very helpful.


Awesome, at least the clutch is good and is more then likely a mount. 

here is a way of checking. 

Open hood, put E-brake on, have someone put it in first and lightly try to move it while you watch from the SIDE of the car. Or if you have suicidal tendencies, watch from the front 

Try having the helper do the same in reverse. 

you should see the excessive engine movement and figure out which of the 3 mounts is broken. BTW if your dash trembles, is usually the passenger mount. 

Report back.


On another note...
My issue with the temp gauge not working ended up being a broken ground. all is fixed now :thumbup:


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey, just one question. I have researched the whole engine movement test, but being fairly new to the car, and not having seen it in gear before, I am not sure exactly what is "excessive" movement, and what is normal movement. Any kind of reference would be helpful Like half inch, 1-2 inches movement whatever just something generally eyeball able. Thanks again for the advice.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Alright, here is a short 50 second video I took of the engine moving under load. To me, it looks like it is moving too much, but I am not sure so I wanted to get a second opinion from people who know more about these cars than me. It moves the most at about the 25 second mark. Thanks.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

Dude.. your front motor mount is broken for sure. Fix that one first and then do another video to see if your pass side rear is bad.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

It is interesting that you should say the front is broken. I have a BBM Solid front motor mount that came with the car, and I have checked it, and it is in one piece, and securely bolted on. It is a quandary.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Dude x2! This bracket failed at the back ear. I've also had one split right across the center of the plate. That nasty tig weld is some of my best work.
























EDIT: it still uses that bracket.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

mateok said:


> Dude x2! This bracket failed at the back ear. I've also had one split right across the center of the plate. That nasty tig weld is some of my best work.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Like mateok said... if you have a solid mount and is doing that on the video, it your bracket for sure!


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Thank you guy for all the help. Good thing I have a wire fed mig-like welder, and the knowledge of how to use it.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Real quick, what is the best way to remove that bracket? Also where is the best point to jack up the tranny for support while it is un-mounted in the front? Thanks all.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Forget what I asked, I got it off. You guys called it, there is a small crack in the bracket. I intend to weld it up and put it back together. The only worrying thing is, where the crack is. Do you guys think a good weld will hold well enough on this crack? The crack is maybe 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch long. thanks again for all the help.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

Well, was the hardware broken or something? Or is the bracket completely separated from the motor mount?? Because those cracks don't seem to me like is completely separated to cause that kind of engine movement. 
I guess report when everything is back together


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Agreed, that's not bad enough to cause what was on the video. I would have expected it to be in pieces. That crack will eventually migrate across and accomplish that, though. 

Do you still have the hydraulic rear? Have some help shake the engine back and forth while you look around with a flashlight. That much slop is hard to hide.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

Got this pic from the Corrado Front End Removal DIY









Anybody know the torque spec. for the Yellow and Blue bolts?
I could only find the Reds in Bentley at 85 Nm

I'm replacing the original bolts while I'm putting the Rado back together; already have the new Red bolts in :thumbup:


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

I wish I had the time and patience to torque every bolt on this car to spec. Props to you. 


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

JDCorrado said:


> Got this pic from the Corrado Front End Removal DIY
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's a good question. Those bolts are usually cross-threaded and mangled. The bumper bolts that you've already handled are the important one's. I would say snugged up nicely ft lbs.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

1broknrado said:


> I wish I had the time and patience to torque every bolt on this car to spec. Props to you.


Yeah, I'm trying to put this thing back together well, but have made a few mistakes:
See the two black screws on the far right of this picture (that aren't circled), one of mine stripped out on the Passenger side yesterday 









Bentley states that the pressure switches on the oil filter flange are torqued to 25 Nm, so I was naive and assumed that the oil temp. sensor was too. This is what happened:








The silver lining was that I was able to show my son how the part was designed on the inside


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

I do still have the hydraulic rear. I will shake it and report back.


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

Mine stripped on the rad too. How do you fix those? 


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

They are just sheet metal screws. You could put an insert into where they thread and use a finer thread bolt.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

All snugged up :thumbup:








The car is finally back on the ground since December...


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

New bolts, nice. I'm a recovering bolt super freak myself. I (used to) replace them if they started looking tired. Plus, they're the one part that's never NLA.


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## the mad conductor (Nov 12, 2009)

ive got 3 of those full of bolts, every time i go to the yard i always takebolts. ya never know when you will need them


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I recently swapped dizzy, plugs and wires.
I have developed this occasional low idle,very low (500 rpm) every time I shift to neutral it goes below 500 and it almost stalls but then goes to 500rpm.
Usually it would run around 740 which makes a huge difference (runs smoother).
What the heck could it be?
Alternator, isv, vacuum leak somewhere (new hoses installed not too long ago)
Should I just adjust the throttle cable?


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## the mad conductor (Nov 12, 2009)

There's a screw on the throttle body you can adjust. Most likely it's the isv. 


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

the mad conductor said:


> There's a screw on the throttle body you can adjust. Most likely it's the isv.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I cleaned it once already( ill clean it again and if the "issue" pops up again ill just buy a new one)
It's so weird because it happens occasionally.
Just took a 20 minute cruise( and I didn't have a single problem, I mean its not a huge deal but it freaking bugs me when it happens.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

JDCorrado said:


> Yeah, I'm trying to put this thing back together well, but have made a few mistakes:
> See the two black screws on the far right of this picture (that aren't circled), one of mine stripped out on the Passenger side yesterday
> 
> 
> ...


Be happy the sensor stripped, I just finished dealing with an oil filter flange that shed its threads.


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## the mad conductor (Nov 12, 2009)

blackslcchild said:


> I cleaned it once already( ill clean it again and if the "issue" pops up again ill just buy a new one)
> It's so weird because it happens occasionally.
> Just took a 20 minute cruise( and I didn't have a single problem, I mean its not a huge deal but it freaking bugs me when it happens.


I've got a good isv I'll sell you. tie pretty new. Maybe less than 2 years old


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Alright, so I wiggled the engine best as I could, grabbing the G-charger, and pushing on the top of the engine, and I was able to move the engine maybe an inch. Keep in mind I don't have the front mount reconnected, and it is still being supported by a jack in the front. Most of the movement comes with little effort, and seems centered on the passengers side mount. am I right in assuming that this means that that is the bad mount? Or is my test flawed because I haven't reconnected the front engine mount? Thanks all.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

I would advise putting all three brand new stock mounts back in. They can be found here:
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Corrado/Engine/142/1
Or many other places for less than $150. You need a baseline to compare at this point. 

I've replaced every mount on mine countless times over the years. As soon as I get a vibration in the dash going past 2K rpm's - time for new ones. 

A solid front will put additional stress on the other two, especially the hydraulic rear. They do best when replaced together.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Alright, so I wiggled the engine best as I could, grabbing the G-charger, and pushing on the top of the engine, and I was able to move the engine maybe an inch. Keep in mind I don't have the front mount reconnected, and it is still being supported by a jack in the front. Most of the movement comes with little effort, and seems centered on the passengers side mount. am I right in assuming that this means that that is the bad mount? Or is my test flawed because I haven't reconnected the front engine mount? Thanks all.


Is broken... unless you are super man or the hulk. Mine came completely apart and the top of the mount where the bolts go, was separated from the mount itself. WTF... I think If you throw it in reverse it will make the engine hit the hood


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## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

What companies out there would you recommend for a G60 big brake kit rear? Nothing like Wildwood stuff just the lesser dual piston Girling stuff that uses 11" rotors. If you have some good used stuff I might be interested.

ECS says they are on back order with no estimated date so there out :thumbdown:



Thanks for the assist ///


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Alright, so I wiggled the engine best as I could, grabbing the G-charger, and pushing on the top of the engine, and I was able to move the engine maybe an inch. Keep in mind I don't have the front mount reconnected, and it is still being supported by a jack in the front. Most of the movement comes with little effort, and seems centered on the passengers side mount. am I right in assuming that this means that that is the bad mount? Or is my test flawed because I haven't reconnected the front engine mount? Thanks all.


Mateok has good info. All three mounts dance the same dance. When matched with the same durometer rubber, urethane or billet ( God help that guy) they cancel the vibration (except billet) and movement. I learned from Brendan (g60racer) that three vibratechnic mounts rock. Running just one or two sucks from the get go.

Same rule of thumb when servicing struts, engine components or brakes. Do all 3, with matching components, at the same time. I'm going TDI / Audi fluid filled mounts this time. Non OE, German brand name is same price as stock Non OE.

I generally have them replaced at the same time as the strut inserts. The OE / Factory mounts may last a little longer but the cost doesn't justify running them for 3 or 4 years and kinda worn for half that time. For comfort and vibration protection on other components just install non OE German mounts and treat them like using a disposable razor only once. A fine shave every time vs justifying using an expensive blade til it gives you a burn.


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## DaddyMassacre (Jul 29, 2010)

guys i need help sourcing this part i have search all over my bently(my guess i missed the dam page) but i can seem to find the same or part number to this part
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?res...uthkey=!AMX7q4OcFMtOnIg&v=3&ithint=photo,.jpg
mine just decided it had enough and cracked on me today


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

DaddyMassacre said:


> guys i need help sourcing this part i have search all over my bently(my guess i missed the dam page) but i can seem to find the same or part number to this part
> https://onedrive.live.com/redir?res...uthkey=!AMX7q4OcFMtOnIg&v=3&ithint=photo,.jpg
> mine just decided it had enough and cracked on me today


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6148609-Found!-CIS-Brake-Booster-check-valve


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

xtremevdub said:


> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6148609-Found!-CIS-Brake-Booster-check-valve


That's a nice find. I've been snagging those at the boneyard for years. For the Corrado, you must purchase the entire brake booster line to get that check valve. Ridiculous.


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## DaddyMassacre (Jul 29, 2010)

xtremevdub said:


> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6148609-Found!-CIS-Brake-Booster-check-valve


awesome im going to try one of these out and see if it works


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

mateok said:


> That's a nice find. I've been snagging those at the boneyard for years. For the Corrado, you must purchase the entire brake booster line to get that check valve. Ridiculous.





DaddyMassacre said:


> awesome im going to try one of these out and see if it works


:thumbup:

I bought like 5 ft of hard line that takes insane psi of vacuum and fit those.. they can be bend with heat.. a lot of heat, and they shrink just like the factory lines. 
one of this days I am gonna make the new line. I think I paid under $3 bucks for it at home depot racing.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

Moving my issue from this thread http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6147497-Post-Your-Oil-amp-Water-Temps/page2 to here, where it belonged in the first place; the original pics are all in the previous thread:
*From post #28, this is before I did any mods to it:*
I drove through town, 65-70 deg F & sunny, at speeds ranging from 25 to 60mph. My water temps remained under 195 for most of the time. When I went through a 25 mph stop & go stretch, my water temp went up slightly above 230 (oil temp.: 243). 

Once I got going above 35mph, the temps. Quickly went down to about 180. The fans continued to run for about 2-3 minutes when I reached the destination & shut the e/g off. oil temp is about 10 deg higher than the water temp. 

Vehicle: 92 SLC with 45k orig. miles. 
*Post #33:* Has mod list and background...

*Post #42:*
Nope, unfortunately I didn't follow your good advice from November . It seems like I'm getting water flow because the water temps are able to get down under 195F with fans on. Also, heat from HVAC was warm which also requires coolant flow. Can the mechanical water pump have degraded performance, for example perform at 50% capacity over time? Either way, I'll plan to replace it.

You also recommended to utilize VW OE Sensors. All 3 of the thermostat sensors were OE from '92. I only changed the 2 pin blue with a Meyle sensor just to see if anything different would happen. The car is acting the same as it did before the changes.

Could it be the FCM? I'm running the original '92 FCM, the 1HO 919 506 8-pin…which is the one that gets changed for the recall. The recall FCM needs the 10 pin jumper harness which is NLA, so I'm staying with what I have for now and believe it is working since the fans turn on with 2 speed settings Hi and Low (EDIT: Seems like the 92 has Lo, Med & Hi). Last Fall the fans would sometimes stay on after the car was shut off, depending on the coolant temperature, when the car was shut off. Seemed like it was working normally to me.

EDIT: 3/1/2014 - Potential solution: http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2816
Looks like my radiator fan motor may be the culprit, I'll do what this guy did to check: Apply voltage to the fan motor directly to see if each fan setting works (Lo - Med - Hi).

EDIT: 
3/2/2014; 3:50pm - Confirmed Radiator Fan Motor functions in Lo, Med, and High with direct battery power to the motor leads --> So the Motor is OK (EDIT: See 3/4/2014 update below...low resistor likely failed)
3/2/2014; 4:40pm - Looks like the harness connector for the Rad Fan Motor's Lo setting had possible plastic melting or it is mangled from being taken on and off possibly. The terminal for the Lo (red/black) wire was also more open than the others. It appears closed like the others after I nudged it with a small screw driver. I disconnected and reconnected the FCM connectors also in case they as they had some surface corrosion…but look to be in good shape from a visual check. No more time to mess around with it today.
3/2/2014; 8:20pm - Another thread with similar problem: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...lly-functional

*This is where I'm at now:* 
3/2/2014; 9:30pm - After looking at Bentley, I checked the S19 30A fuse and it looks OK. I think my issue could be the FCM...need to know how to check its function.
3/3/2014; AM - From Bentley for a '92 SLC, it looks like the Rad Fan MED setting signal comes from F18 Rad Cooling Fan Thermo Switch after it recieves input from the FCM; Low and High come from the FCM J293 Coolant Fan Control Unit (Looking at Bentley 183).
3/4/2014 PM - Confirmed again that Lo, Med & High fan with direct battery power work, but the Low speed is running in High Speed. So the Low speed resistor must have failed. No resistance measured through the terminal either (matched the High Speed terminal's resistance); while the Med. was reading ~0.5ohm resistance.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

So you just cleaned the rad and never put a new one on? Did you make sure that the outside was clean, I mean that you can see thru all of it, for easy air flow?
Did you do the same to the A/c condenser??? 
Did you remove any of the plastics shrouds around them??? 

In my thread after installing a a/c condensor and an intercooler my temp went up.. So I made a shroud, like so... 












xtremevdub said:


> This is mocking my intercooler shroud...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Mind you that I dind have a stock rad support and I had non of the original shrouds of any type.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

XTVdub, thanks for your input and time :
So you just cleaned the rad and never put a new one on?
*ANS: Yes, kept the 46k mile radiator that appears fresh and clean. Once the fans kick on, the temperature of the coolant goes down just fine. For example, when I force the Rad Fans on using A/C in Defrost Mode, the coolant temperatures dropped down to 175F (80C) with 196F oil temp.*
Did you make sure that the outside was clean, I mean that you can see thru all of it, for easy air flow?
*ANS: Yes, and I replaced the foam between the condenser and the radiator to prevent hot engine compartment air from recirculating back through the radiator.*
Did you do the same to the A/c condenser???
*ANS: I didn't remove the condenser and water spray it, just cleaned off a few bugs. Looked OK, but not fresh and clean like the Radiator. I'll spray the fins from e/g side out once it warms up more in MI.*
Did you remove any of the plastics shrouds around them???
*ANS: Need one $20 plastic shroud for the Driver side; will replace both NEW.*

Looking for the root cause as to why the rad fans don't kick on until the coolant is above 230F when A/C is in the OFF position. I'm thinking FCM or bad harness at this point. Anything else to check? 
EDIT: DubNutzzzz website for worn rad fan connectors states they are a common cause of faulty connection, so I just ordered a new one because my low terminal is in bad shape and the bottom connector snap is broken off. Also, if the Low radiator fan motor resistor is wearing out, it could cause higher power draw which could also damage the connection prior to blowing a fuse once it completely wears...just some info for what may be going on. Thanks :thumbup:


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

Does anyone know where I can get a bushing/mounting kit for h&r rear sway bar ?
Lost one under driving...

Cant find it anywhere ? 
Asked BBM a month ago, but havnt got an answer yet..


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## the mad conductor (Nov 12, 2009)

Why not call h&r?


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## 91vwmk2 (Oct 1, 2011)

*looking to swap a 1.8 16v head on to my 1.8 8v motor*

im just wondering what i needed to make it happen .
some of the questions i do have right now is.....
could i use the 8v radiator thats on there ?
and is this swap pretty much plug and play ? 
also would i have to upgrade the fuel pump? 

any info would be great:thumbup:

thanks branden


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

the mad conductor said:


> Why not call h&r?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


In the listing there are nothing for europe.
So if anyone knew of a site that has those that would be the easy way..
Cant get the phone numbers for us to work from norway..


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## luvdubs21 (Mar 6, 2014)

*92 SLC won't go into gear*

I recently bought a 92 SLC with low miles and was able to drive it normally for several months. The PO told me that he had put in a new clutch and lightweight flywheel. Before I stored it for the winter I was beginning to have difficulty getting the car into 1st gear, with occasional grinding. I fired it up a couple of weeks ago, and now it won't go into gear at all-whether it's running or not. I've had to switch out the O2A in my GTI VR6, and it was no fun. COuld there be another issue besides a dead transmission? Plenty of brake fluid in the reservoir. HELP! My baby isn't working!


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## the mad conductor (Nov 12, 2009)

Align the shifter


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey, I have two questions today. Following sage advice from a response to my previous posts, I purchased OE engine mounts from the German autotech site. Today, I finally had time to crawl under there and see what was what and how to remove and replace the rear right mount. That is when I saw this. 








That is the left side of the right rear engine mount bottom. It is missing a bolt. could this mean that maybe the mount is not bad, but it just needs that bolt back? Obviously if I change out the mount, it is going in with two bolts to hold it to the subframe. 

Additionally, I have been under my G60 a couple times recently, and I have noticed this.








This green fluid is on the transmission, and the oil pan bottom. I can't tell where it is coming from, if it is a coolant leak higher up (say that darned flange on the side of the block), or actually transmission fluid leaking out. I really hope it is not tranny fluid coming out. That would be all I needed now. Thanks for the help in advance, everyone here continues to be the best source of guidance I have ever encountered.


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## stntman (Sep 19, 2002)

hey experts.

i am new to the owning of a corrado and recently installed some coilovers that i purchased for my mkII into my corrado as the suspension was blown and the jetta is on the back burner for a period longer.

I am getting a clunk from the front and with the weight off of the car i can move the top of the strut on the engine side with my hands. Do i need to do a different bushing or bearing to install the suspension on the corrado? 

on the website it shows the mkII, mkIII, and corrado all with the same kit so i am asuming it is something small that is different.


thanks


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## the mad conductor (Nov 12, 2009)

How do you have the coils bolted up? Do you have vr strut mounts?


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## stntman (Sep 19, 2002)

i used the ones in the raddo over again as the rubber looked to be in good shape with no dry rotting or deformities.

they lood different thatn the ones in my mkII. i think that i may get some new mkII strut mount bearings.

is there a big difference in the vr ones?


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Hurry up and obo this valve cover from Mk III Euro 2E 8v motor. The Breather and oil fill are reversed so you can pitch the stamped steel cover



2.OhhhGTI said:


> Got a sweet nos g60 valve cover...looks like it has never seen a drop of oil... Original finish with no flaws...
> 
> $120 shipped obo
> 
> ...


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

petethepug said:


> Hurry up and obo this valve cover from Mk III Euro 2E 8v motor. The Breather and oil fill are reversed so you can pitch the stamped steel cover


Was that supposed to be for me?? thats my old motor.. I have this one in there now...


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## the mad conductor (Nov 12, 2009)

Where's the turbo?


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

the mad conductor said:


> Where's the turbo?












Is waiting for a couple of parts. Yesterday I finally got it to ran NA somewhat strong with no codes. 
Tomorrow im gonna try switching to Aeb injectors and see what it does. The yellow top mustang injectors I have there now are not that great at idle but great while running.


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## stntman (Sep 19, 2002)

man alive talk about a tidy little setup there!!!


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

> This green fluid is on the transmission, and the oil pan bottom. I can't tell where it is coming from, if it is a coolant leak higher up (say that darned flange on the side of the block), or actually transmission fluid leaking out. I really hope it is not tranny fluid coming out. That would be all I needed now. Thanks for the help in advance, everyone here continues to be the best source of guidance I have ever encountered.


1st, I'm not an expert, looks like nobody replied to your post yet.
2nd, When my thermostat housing was leaking, the leak's flow path went down to the bottom of the trans. If you have green coolant, and the pic is below the thermostat housing dripping down from the front of the trans, I'd say it is a leak from the thermostat housing interface to the engine. The tongue & groove that the gasket fits in breaks down over time and will eventually leak there like it did on mine. If you are unsure, clean all the wet areas up, then start the car and try to trace where the drips are coming from to confirm. If it is the housing leaking, then you'll want to replace the thermostat housing and crack pipe (o-rings if you have an aluminum or ss pipe). Be careful not to expose your skin to the coolant. :thumbup:


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

*What is this?*

The PO provided a box-o-shtuff that had things like a Momo racing harness, Bentley, Engine Cover, bulbs, etc…
This was included in the box…what is it? They are about 6 inches in length:








Thanks :beer:


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

JDCorrado said:


> The PO provided a box-o-shtuff that had things like a Momo racing harness, Bentley, Engine Cover, bulbs, etc…
> This was included in the box…what is it? They are about 6 inches in length:
> Thanks :beer:


Front diffuser support brackets


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

JDCorrado said:


> 1st, I'm not an expert, looks like nobody replied to your post yet.
> 2nd, When my thermostat housing was leaking, the leak's flow path went down to the bottom of the trans. If you have green coolant, and the pic is below the thermostat housing dripping down from the front of the trans, I'd say it is a leak from the thermostat housing interface to the engine. The tongue & groove that the gasket fits in breaks down over time and will eventually leak there like it did on mine. If you are unsure, clean all the wet areas up, then start the car and try to trace where the drips are coming from to confirm. If it is the housing leaking, then you'll want to replace the thermostat housing and crack pipe (o-rings if you have an aluminum or ss pipe). Be careful not to expose your skin to the coolant. :thumbup:


Also if it was transmission fluid, it will smell like a thousand swamp asses... so start from there. 



JamesS said:


> Front diffuser support brackets


Because of racecar. :thumbup:


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

^^^Front diffuser support rods…
Seems like I would be hacking up my ride if I put those on…


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## br0d (Mar 1, 2014)

I have a '91 g60. I'm looking for a diagram of the fuses/fuse box. I'd like to know which fuse controls what but my car does not have a cover for the box. I'd appreciate any help anyone has. Thanks.


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## Bridge (Oct 19, 2013)

*ECU replacing*

Hey there, 
I have a 92' SLC VR6 2.8 rado
I brought it into a shop because it was running rough and i could not for the life of me figure it out (I have some experience with cars). He told me that the ECU had water damage and the fuse box has water inside it. So i bought a new ECU and plugged it in but it won't start. It cranks but never starts. When I plug my old ECU back in it just starts and runs rough until it idles too low and dies again.
Any suggestions? 
Much appreciated.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

Could someone tell me whether the fuel lines were sprayed with the rest of the underbody undercoating from the factory? You can see my blue fuel line has a black coating on it. The original owner paid extra money when they purchased the car to have the VW Dealership put on PROTECTOR PAINT COATING and extra undercoating…maybe it was from that. Not sure why they put more undercoating on than what came from factory though.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

JDCorrado said:


> Could someone tell me whether the fuel lines were sprayed with the rest of the underbody undercoating from the factory? You can see my blue fuel line has a black coating on it. The original owner paid extra money when they purchased the car to have the VW Dealership put on PROTECTOR PAINT COATING and extra undercoating…maybe it was from that. Not sure why they put more undercoating on than what came from factory though.


They were not sprayed from the factory. There is a shiny black line and that baby blue line for fuel, there is also another black line for evap from the tank


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## Mudkicker99 (May 11, 2008)

Hey experts,

Please recommend mounting kits for struts and shocks. As close to OEM as possible. 1993 VR6.

:beer:


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

Mudkicker99 said:


> Hey experts,
> 
> Please recommend mounting kits for struts and shocks. As close to OEM as possible. 1993 VR6.
> 
> :beer:


Thats easy, buy OEM 1993 VR suff.  Not really joking.. there are no more options available at least for the fronts.. the VR bearings and bushings were stronger than their counter parts. Also there are Poly rears mounts that you can buy, but they dont make poly fronts.


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## Mudkicker99 (May 11, 2008)

xtremevdub said:


> Thats easy, buy OEM 1993 VR suff.  Not really joking.. there are no more options available at least for the fronts.. the VR bearings and bushings were stronger than their counter parts. Also there are Poly rears mounts that you can buy, but they dont make poly fronts.


ECS website seems to have ''kits'' for both the front and the rear. Just not sure about fitment. I don't want to buy it and then have problems.

If I buy all the parts at the dealer, what should I buy exactly? I never changed out shocks and struts before so it will be a learning experience for me.
Based on pictures that I have seen, these ''kits'' have quite a few pieces to them.

Thanks for your help.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Don't get that stuff from the dealer. You'll pay significantly more for the same parts. The Corrado is old enough that the companies who made the parts for VW have been relieved of their contracts. 

You can get the exact same strut bushing made by Meyle for a fraction of cost compared to the dealership. Half the parts on my G60 have grinding marks on them. That's from someone removing the VW/Audi emblem, along with half the cost, and selling it to me. I work for VW and get cost + 10% on parts and can still get them cheaper elsewhere.


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## Mudkicker99 (May 11, 2008)

mateok said:


> Don't get that stuff from the dealer. You'll pay significantly more for the same parts. The Corrado is old enough that the companies who made the parts for VW have been relieved of their contracts.
> 
> You can get the exact same strut bushing made by Meyle for a fraction of cost compared to the dealership. Half the parts on my G60 have grinding marks on them. That's from someone removing the VW/Audi emblem, along with half the cost, and selling it to me. I work for VW and get cost + 10% on parts and can still get them cheaper elsewhere.


Thanks that is good information.
What parts need or should be replaced exactly? As I mentioned before, these "kits" that I see for sale have quite a few parts to them.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

Mudkicker99 said:


> Thanks that is good information.
> What parts need or should be replaced exactly? As I mentioned before, these "kits" that I see for sale have quite a few parts to them.


See that question in an open ended question. The question to you is how much money you wanna spend on suspension parts?

Cause you can just put just new mounting bushings and bearings and call it a day on your old stock suspension, or go and put a shock/spring kit or go full coil over setup.
Again, there is a lot you can do, but $ is the real question. 

And suspension questions have been answered a billion times on this forums. 

Koni coils rule all other coil overs. :beer: 

Also there are tons of DIY for these suspensions, look into mk2-3 and passats also and you will find them. They all share the same components.


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## Mudkicker99 (May 11, 2008)

xtremevdub said:


> See that question in an open ended question. The question to you is how much money you wanna spend on suspension parts?
> 
> Cause you can just put just new mounting bushings and bearings and call it a day on your old stock suspension, or go and put a shock/spring kit or go full coil over setup.
> Again, there is a lot you can do, but $ is the real question.
> ...


I though that I mentioned it earlier. I will be getting H&R sport springs and Koni STR.T shocks and struts.
Just need to know what else to change, mounts, bearings and such. What can be reused and what should be replaced.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

BACKGROUND: So, I replaced the fuel filter last weekend and started the car and the revs fluctuated a bit at first while the filter was becoming saturated, etc...but eventually idled at 750rpm after the first minute or so. Then the car sat for about 1 week.

ISSUE: Yesterday, 40 deg. F, I started the car and the revs were OK for about 2 minutes, then it started to fluctuate between 500 and 2k. I pressed the accel pedal up to 2.5k and the car stalled when I let off the pedal. Started it back up, rev'd OK at 750rpm for 1 minute then started bouncing on its own and stalled.

DID I DO THE RIGHT THING?: So I disconnected the battery and waited 5 minutes. Reconnected the battery, started the vehicle and it rev'd nicely at 750rpm like it always had before and I idled it for about 15 minutes (Still can't drive it; salty and broken roads in MI). From what I've researched it seems like the ECU just needed to be reset.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

Thoughts on this.

VR6 with original CDM tranny. Has about 250k on it. Just had the engine rebuilt about 6 months ago, maybe has 2000 miles on it. When motor was rebuilt LSD was installed. Drove it last Friday and started hearing a grinding noise when in 2nd gear, shifts in and out of 2nd just fine and smooth. The noise is only that gear and only while in gear. Would that be a synchro or the gear itself? Going to have a transmission shop look at it, just want some ideas on what could be causing it beforehand.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

JamesS said:


> Front diffuser support brackets


I see an example of what they look like on the Corrado in this article, page 4:
http://www.performancevwmag.com/previewapr2014/#/4/


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

Can someone help me know what grommet to put here, either an OEM one or other...the hole is just under the clutch. Thanks :beer:


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> Thoughts on this.
> 
> VR6 with original CDM tranny. Has about 250k on it. Just had the engine rebuilt about 6 months ago, maybe has 2000 miles on it. When motor was rebuilt LSD was installed. Drove it last Friday and started hearing a grinding noise when in 2nd gear, shifts in and out of 2nd just fine and smooth. The noise is only that gear and only while in gear. Would that be a synchro or the gear itself? Going to have a transmission shop look at it, just want some ideas on what could be causing it beforehand.


http://manualtransmissionproblems.blogspot.com/2012/07/common-manual-transmission-problems.html

5. Noises - Clicking, Knocking, Ticking (Different noises mean Different Things):

1.Clicking noise indicates a chip broke off of a gear or maybe one tooth off a gear. This manual transmission problem usually only gets worse.
2.Knocking noise indicates a broken gear/gears and more damage on the inside.
3.My transmission has what seems to be a bearing noise but it goes away in ___ gear. This is a little strange but if your manual transmission makes noises in all gears but one particular gear is quiet - it is normally the quiet gear which is causing the noise. So if your manual transmission is loud in 1st gear, but gets quieter as you get closer to 4th gear, then it is a problem in the 4th gear area. 

It could be a bad gear, maybe a bad bearing, maybe a combination of both which is causing the manual transmission problem in the quite gear. However, while the manual transmission is apart, inspect all gears and components for further manual transmission damage. 

Questions? email: [email protected]


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## Mudkicker99 (May 11, 2008)

Will these fit early interior cards? They are OEM Polo, apparently. I've wanted to change out my stock ones since I bought the car 11 years ago...so fugly!


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

Mudkicker99 said:


> Will these fit* early interior* cards? They are OEM Polo, apparently. I've wanted to change out my stock ones since I bought the car 11 years ago...so fugly!


Probably not, but do you really have to ask????? :screwy:


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## KorradoTDI (Mar 2, 2014)

*Girling 60s*

Noob question about the 60s.

I picked up a 90 G60 that had been converted to a VR6. Dude didn't even realize they had changed the brakes over as well to the VR 5lug.

I remember reading various posts here and on other forums about what 4lug rotor you have to run to use the 60s...but haven't found much detail about using them on a VR. Will the stock VR rotors work?

And while on the subject, is there an OEM upgrade for the rear calipers?


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## Mudkicker99 (May 11, 2008)

xtremevdub said:


> Probably not, but do you really have to ask????? :screwy:


Yes, I really had to ask! I thought this was ask the experts thread?


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

Mudkicker99 said:


> Yes, I really had to ask! I thought this was ask the experts thread?


ok.. let me help you then.. 
Step 1: Go to the car.. unscrew by hand counter clock wise the existing door lock nobs and remove. 
Step 2: put new door lock knobs in the "threaded bar" and screw by hand clockwise. If the door knob lock is too fat for the door card, then it doesnt fit. 
Step 3: If it doenst fit, undo what you did on step one. 

Make sure to report your findings. :sly:


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## Mudkicker99 (May 11, 2008)

xtremevdub said:


> ok.. let me help you then..
> Step 1: Go to the car.. unscrew by hand counter clock wise the existing door lock nobs and remove.
> Step 2: put new door lock knobs in the "threaded bar" and screw by hand clockwise. If the door knob lock is too fat for the door card, then it doesnt fit.
> Step 3: If it doenst fit, undo what you did on step one.
> ...


LOL, I don't have them in my possession...that's the picture from the site that is selling them. It looks like they would fit but I don't want to buy them for nothing. I was hoping that somebody here had tried them.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

KorradoTDI said:


> Noob question about the 60s.
> 
> I picked up a 90 G60 that had been converted to a VR6. Dude didn't even realize they had changed the brakes over as well to the VR 5lug.
> 
> ...


There are a couple different ways the person may have gone with the 5x100 swap. You will need to provide some pictures of the front brake rotor so we can guide you on which rotors to buy. Right off the bat they could be 11" vr6 rotors, 11.3" mk3 VR rotors, they could also be ecs 11.3 conversion rotor$ or g60 11" rotors that were redrilled. My 5x100 conversion uses mk4 gti 11.3" rotors, the differance being the hat/rotor surface offset.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

petethepug said:


> http://manualtransmissionproblems.blogspot.com/2012/07/common-manual-transmission-problems.html
> 
> 5. Noises - Clicking, Knocking, Ticking (Different noises mean Different Things):
> 
> ...


Thanks. It's a gear problem, just waiting to see if swapping the transmission or fixing the problem will be better.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

Mudkicker99 said:


> LOL, I don't have them in my possession...that's the picture from the site that is selling them. It looks like they would fit but I don't want to buy them for nothing. I was hoping that somebody here had tried them.


Ok... You should have said that.  

The early interior door cards (like you asked) have smaller openings for the pin and the threaded bar are thinner. The newer ones 93+ have a bigger hole with bigger threads. 
The picture you posted looked like a newer style. 
Again in your profile you posted your car to be a 93. unless you changed your door cards to the older style for some reason. 

If you indeed have older style, look for the door lock knobs for a vw mk2 in your searches, which bolt to the early corrado no problem and is are easier to search.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

I replaced the knobs on my G60 (skinny one's) with the later fat style. I kept snapping them in half with my elbow reaching for my food at the drive-thru. You'll need to get the bases and enlarge the door card holes. A round file makes short work of the cheap cardboard door cards.


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## Mudkicker99 (May 11, 2008)

xtremevdub said:


> Ok... You should have said that.
> 
> The early interior door cards (like you asked) have smaller openings for the pin and the threaded bar are thinner. The newer ones 93+ have a bigger hole with bigger threads.
> The picture you posted looked like a newer style.
> ...


Pretty funny! My car has the early style interior. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6019435-93-White-amp-Recaro
I figured that MK2 would be a direct fit, but was not sure. I have to say I have yet to come across a really nice looking set. It may be trivial, but its all about the detail, sometimes the small details pulls everything together.


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## Mudkicker99 (May 11, 2008)

mateok said:


> I replaced the knobs on my G60 (skinny one's) with the later fat style. I kept snapping them in half with my elbow reaching for my food at the drive-thru. You'll need to get the bases and enlarge the door card holes. A round file makes short work of the cheap cardboard door cards.


I was thinking of that too. If I can't find nice ones that will fit, I may go ahead and do what you suggest.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

93 was a hybrid year for all sorts of parts (interior and engine)


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## Almost1 (Nov 3, 2010)

So I've read on here that the 1.8t IAT sensor is a direct replacement to the VR sensor, but I don't see how. The original one is threaded into the intake manifold and the 1.8t sensor is held in with a screw. Am i thinking about this the wrong way?

Original Sensor:









1.8t Sensor:


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Zeb has some of the OE early door card pins coming in from Germany soon. I asked for 6. He said he'd get more and try to stock some of them.



Mudkicker99 said:


> Will these fit early interior cards? They are OEM Polo, apparently. I've wanted to change out my stock ones since I bought the car 11 years ago...so fugly!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


*Even if they say they fit a g60 they usually don't. Check out this eBay sell who still lists that they fit. The thread pitch is off and these catch about 2 threads and want to lock on permanently. *[SUP]clickie[/SUP]*191 837 187*


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## CORRADOG60YELLOW (Mar 13, 2014)

*Corrado that hates me*

My name is Andy. I have a 90 g60 that has an extended crank since my heater core barfed. It would crank several times, blow out black smoke , smelled like raw fuel , rough idle and then would clear up. When driving it would back fire between shifts.
I replaced the coolant temp sensor because it was fried. Car still has extended crank but no longer runs rich. Verified Co is at 500 ohms and timing is on. 
Once it is running, it runs like a rapped ape.


Thanx for any help
Andy new guy

I have owned a gaggle of VW's but this is my first corrado and I don't know much about their systems. I'm used to cis and 83 and back vehicles.
I'm a little lost


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

CORRADOG60YELLOW said:


> My name is Andy. I have a 90 g60 that has an extended crank since my heater core barfed. It would crank several times, blow out black smoke , smelled like raw fuel , rough idle and then would clear up. When driving it would back fire between shifts.
> I replaced the coolant temp sensor because it was fried. Car still has extended crank but no longer runs rich. Verified Co is at 500 ohms and timing is on.
> Once it is running, it runs like a rapped ape.
> 
> ...


Not sure what affect a blown heater core has in this scenario. It sounds like a coincidence. It's unfathomable to a customer that two components could fail simultaneously, though. 

This sounds like the usual Digifant sensor failure. Start narrowing it down. Does it run rich at startup (open loop) or when hot (closed loop) or both? How old is the o2 sensor? What do it's wires look like behind the engine? Is the timing still good? What does the crank pulley keyway look like? Cap and rotor? Grounds? And on and on...


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## CORRADOG60YELLOW (Mar 13, 2014)

Thank you very much. I will start hunting shortly.
Also have a slight hesitation when holding speed over 2,500 rpm.
Andy


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## CORRADOG60YELLOW (Mar 13, 2014)

OK, checked all grounds and connections-- checks good, sensors tested good key way on crank good.. tested both coolant sensors,02 sensor ,crank sensor timing is spot on , new cap , rotor and plugs. only has extended crank when cold. Has not been idling rich after resetting co put to 500 and replaced coolant sensor yesterday. Still has pop between shifts, not know if that is because of the aftermarket exhaust. has cat back big pipe.
I swapped the coolant sensor for the computer and the gauge. It fires right up but seems to run a little lean. Low power---- But still has slight back fire.


What am I missing


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

What's going on with the extended cranking? Does the engine turn over, catch, sputter, and then slowly work it's way up to speed? Or does it turn over for awhile and then suddenly start? What I'm getting at is; what's the fuel pressure at the rail and is it being maintained over night? 

If you unplug the CTS the ECU will start the car using an assigned map for a warm engine >140F. The difficult part with Digi is that when a sensor fails, that sensor's signal is replaced by a stored fixed value. That's done to prevent damage, but makes it hard to find. 

The signal from the Hall Sender and the MAP sensor (1M hose. That's used to determine the firing point and injection time, good?) determine which of the hundreds of fuel maps to choose from initially. The o2 sensor and CTS make corrections to that as they wake up. Have you checked the WOT/Idle switch yet? That's another sensor that can play stupid games. 

You've fingered all the usual suspects. The fact that it'll start normally with the black sensor plugged in is interesting. Are you seeing around 2K Ohms resistance cold with the blue one? It should be around 200 Ohms at temp (195F).


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## JeffRhoads (Jul 29, 2011)

*Stock 1990 Corrado g60 questions*

This is my first post on any forum so be kind. I have a stock black 1990 g60 Corrado with 38,xxx miles. I love this car and want to make it my every day driver but I have a few questions I'm hoping someone can help me answer.
First, hard rains I get water dripping onto the front passenger floor mat. I already had the gasket around the leaf capture basket thing over the heater core vent replaced. That is water tight but it still happens. I know that's a common problem. Also, the drain hole that often gets clogged with leaves is completely clear. It's only while driving and only in fairly heavy rain. The plastic molding at the base of the exterior of the windshield is lifted up about a quarter inch. I put packing tape just to see if water was getting in there and under the windshield but it still happens. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Also, this is (hopefully) less urgent. Shifting into fifth gear is a bit tricky. I need to push the shifter all the way to the right and then back it off a bit as I push it up into fifth. If I push it to the right and up (forward) at the same time I'll grind the gears. I don't mind taking the extra time with this gear but I was curious if others noticed this too.
Sorry if these questions have already been answered elsewhere. If I'm supposed to do more extensive searching or read all previous posts, please let me know. I just wanted to introduce myself. I have other minor issues but I wanted to start with these.
Thanks in advance.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

JeffRhoads said:


> This is my first post on any forum so be kind. I have a stock black 1990 g60 Corrado with 38,xxx miles. I love this car and want to make it my every day driver but I have a few questions I'm hoping someone can help me answer.
> First, hard rains I get water dripping onto the front passenger floor mat. I already had the gasket around the leaf capture basket thing over the heater core vent replaced. That is water tight but it still happens. I know that's a common problem. Also, the drain hole that often gets clogged with leaves is completely clear. It's only while driving and only in fairly heavy rain. The plastic molding at the base of the exterior of the windshield is lifted up about a quarter inch. I put packing tape just to see if water was getting in there and under the windshield but it still happens. Any ideas would be appreciated.
> Also, this is (hopefully) less urgent. Shifting into fifth gear is a bit tricky. I need to push the shifter all the way to the right and then back it off a bit as I push it up into fifth. If I push it to the right and up (forward) at the same time I'll grind the gears. I don't mind taking the extra time with this gear but I was curious if others noticed this too.
> Sorry if these questions have already been answered elsewhere. If I'm supposed to do more extensive searching or read all previous posts, please let me know. I just wanted to introduce myself. I have other minor issues but I wanted to start with these.
> Thanks in advance.


You need to adjust the shift cables, from the defunk corrado-club:


_CABLE "A" (Driver side): if pushing down and to the side on the shift lever to go into reverse, and it gets hung up on the reverse lockout, then this cable needs to be adjusted. Note the position of the cable end to the transmission lever on the transmission. Loosen the bolt and slide the cable toward the front of the car in small increments until the lever does not hang up on the reverse lockout. Retighten the bolt to 18ft/lbs. CABLE "B" (Passenger side): if 1st or 5th gears are hard to get into, then this cable must be adjusted. Note position of cable end on transmission lever. Loosen the bolt and slide the cable rearward in small increments for better alignment for 1st gear. Slide the cable forward for 5th gear alignment. Retighten the bolt to 11ft/lbs._

For the rain leak:
Is there a cover over the fresh air inlet? If so I would suggest you and a friend start testing with a garden hose to find the source. Start low on the firewall, then to the rain tray and then to the windshield. Have a person in the floor boards waiting for drips.


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## CORRADOG60YELLOW (Mar 13, 2014)

The extended crank:: It will crank over approx. 7 to 8 times, has a rough idle and then clears. tends to backfire a little between shifts and if you rev it , it will back fire when getting off throttle. I am going to start by replacing every vacuum line. I thing they are original to the car.
I did pull of the vacuum line to the computer, it started the same way just with a little more black smoke and the back fires were a little more prevalent.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

CORRADOG60YELLOW said:


> I am going to start by replacing every vacuum line. I thing they are original to the car.


Holy smokes, I'm on like complete set number four for mine now. Make sure the two vacuum lines on the throttle body are going to the correct nipples. The ECU line is the top one (passenger side). Without that hose the car will run like crap because it won't see any vacuum.


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## clintg60-16v (Dec 13, 2002)

xtremevdub said:


> If you indeed have older style, look for the door lock knobs for a vw mk2 in your searches, which bolt to the early corrado no problem and is are easier to search.


I changed mine to MK I lock knobs with the textured rubber tops. They feel better and look better (my opinion) compared to the original ones.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

clintg60-16v said:


> I changed mine to MK I lock knobs with the textured rubber tops. They feel better and look better (my opinion) compared to the original ones.












Like that?

I have never broken a single door lock knob..Is that because you guys yank on them too much?
 I usually lock/unlock the car with the key or the remote control.. never touch the knobs..


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

xtremevdub said:


> Like that?
> 
> I have never broken a single door lock knob..Is that because you guys yank on them too much?
> I usually lock/unlock the car with the key or the remote control.. never touch the knobs..


Ive had two of them break just from the cold. In -30 weather the plastic gets brittle and just breaks without even touching it.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

JamesS said:


> Ive had two of them break just from the cold. In -30 weather the plastic gets brittle and just breaks without even touching it.


Ah.. I always forget about the cold since I live in Miami and that doesnt really happen here..


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## CORRADOG60YELLOW (Mar 13, 2014)

Well all vacuum lines have been replaced. No difference.. Now for the mind numbing test each sensor 1 by 1 ya friggin hoooo


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## Zorn1 (Jul 31, 2008)

collecting parts for abs delete and i want to make sure i got the right parts:










i picked this up at the junk yard today, it was from a 97 jetta. i couldn't get the booster because it was the wrong one. but will this master cylinder work, and do i need the connector i cut off as well? i just want to make sure i didn't waste my money.


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## turboSlap (Feb 5, 2009)

Guys I tried to contact jbetz by email earlier today after sending a pm here a month ago without response regarding my charger rebuild, is he still frequenting these forums??


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## Dolphin B6 S4 (Jul 11, 2012)

Can this thread be used for pricing? If so, my mom is finally a little motivated to get rid of her 92 SLC VR6 corrado. She bought it brand new with 18 miles on the clock in 1992, it's tornado red with the factory BBS wheels. It now has 88k miles and runs like a champ, it was daily driven up until 2007 when she got her honda fit, and now it just sits in the garage with an occasional 30 minute idle session. I was actually just driving it for a couple months before winter hit when my S4 had its timing service done, and the only thing I had to put into it was a battery. The paint is immaculate, and there are only 2 small dents that I know of on the car. The interior could use a little work though. The headliner is sagging pretty bad, the glue that used to be holding it up is ugly, and there are a fair share of coffee stains in the carpet. But the car was never smoked in, and the Karman interior still smells as it came from the factory (I would have to assume assume). It was always serviced at the dealership, and it's still 100% stock. There is not a single aftermarket part on the car. The sunroof, and the spoiler both work.. I know those are common problems with these. So, with that said.. What could she get for it? 

I need to take more pictures of it..


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

JDCorrado said:


> Can someone help me know what grommet to put here, either an OEM one or other...the hole is just under the clutch. Thanks :beer:


Can someone take a picture of the OEM part that goes in this hole and provide a part number. I plan to remove the amp wire and replace with OEM if I can...otherwise I'll have to find an aftermarket grommet to fill the hole.


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## Almost1 (Nov 3, 2010)

Dolphin B6 S4 said:


> Can this thread be used for pricing? If so, my mom is finally a little motivated to get rid of her 92 SLC VR6 corrado. She bought it brand new with 18 miles on the clock in 1992, it's tornado red with the factory BBS wheels. It now has 88k miles and runs like a champ, it was daily driven up until 2007 when she got her honda fit, and now it just sits in the garage with an occasional 30 minute idle session. I was actually just driving it for a couple months before winter hit when my S4 had its timing service done, and the only thing I had to put into it was a battery. The paint is immaculate, and there are only 2 small dents that I know of on the car. The interior could use a little work though. The headliner is sagging pretty bad, the glue that used to be holding it up is ugly, and there are a fair share of coffee stains in the carpet. But the car was never smoked in, and the Karman interior still smells as it came from the factory (I would have to assume assume). It was always serviced at the dealership, and it's still 100% stock. There is not a single aftermarket part on the car. The sunroof, and the spoiler both work.. I know those are common problems with these. So, with that said.. What could she get for it?
> 
> I need to take more pictures of it..


Eh these things are cheap I'd say around $50, but since you're new I'll cut you a deal: $75 and I'll even come and get it 

In all seriousness, that's a fine specimen of corrado your mom has there. Unfortunately, I'm no pricing expert


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

Dolphin B6 S4 said:


> Can this thread be used for pricing? If so, my mom is finally a little motivated to get rid of her 92 SLC VR6 corrado. She bought it brand new with 18 miles on the clock in 1992, it's tornado red with the factory BBS wheels. It now has 88k miles and runs like a champ, it was daily driven up until 2007 when she got her honda fit, and now it just sits in the garage with an occasional 30 minute idle session. I was actually just driving it for a couple months before winter hit when my S4 had its timing service done, and the only thing I had to put into it was a battery. The paint is immaculate, and there are only 2 small dents that I know of on the car. The interior could use a little work though. The headliner is sagging pretty bad, the glue that used to be holding it up is ugly, and there are a fair share of coffee stains in the carpet. But the car was never smoked in, and the Karman interior still smells as it came from the factory (I would have to assume assume). It was always serviced at the dealership, and it's still 100% stock. There is not a single aftermarket part on the car. The sunroof, and the spoiler both work.. I know those are common problems with these. So, with that said.. What could she get for it?


Your one owner C could sell anywhere between $7,500 to $10,000 is my guess. Looks nice :beer:

In 2013, I saw a '93 SLC with a similar history one owner Corrado going for $13,000 by a reputable consignment shop in Grand Rapids, MI. It was up for sale for over 3 months.

My '92 SLC w/42k is basically stock with the kind of mods you would hope to have when you get it (268 Schrick cams, upper & lower front and rear bars, upgraded brake calipers, bosal header, Autotech Exhaust, Momo steering wheel and shift knob, etc...) It was a 2nd owner trade in to an awesome place called ToyBarn in Dublin, OH. They buy and sell high end vehicles. Anyway, their research suggested a MSRP of $8,650 and their phone was off the hook. I bought it 2 days after they had posted pics.

Even though the car is in great shape, buyers can expect to pay $2,000 to $3,000 in the first two years. Chains, hoses. Your tires may have good tread but could be over 10 years old and would need replacement. Your service records are key and condition of brakes, tires, what kind of headlights you have all will have an impact, etc. Used Euro headlights go for $500 and are desireable by many VWVs as an example.

If you put it up for sale for $8,500 you'll get offers...if you try to get over $10k, you may be in for a long haul but someone may bite.
With that said, here is a '94 with many updated OEM parts going for $5,500. You don't see offers like that everyday.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...Corrado-SLC-VR6-in-Raleigh-NC-with-129K-miles


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Dolphin B6 S4 said:


> Can this thread be used for pricing? If so, my mom is finally a little motivated to get rid of her 92 SLC VR6 corrado. She bought it brand new with 18 miles on the clock in 1992, it's tornado red with the factory BBS wheels. It now has 88k miles and runs like a champ, it was daily driven up until 2007 when she got her honda fit, and now it just sits in the garage with an occasional 30 minute idle session. I was actually just driving it for a couple months before winter hit when my S4 had its timing service done, and the only thing I had to put into it was a battery. The paint is immaculate, and there are only 2 small dents that I know of on the car. The interior could use a little work though. The headliner is sagging pretty bad, the glue that used to be holding it up is ugly, and there are a fair share of coffee stains in the carpet. But the car was never smoked in, and the Karman interior still smells as it came from the factory (I would have to assume assume). It was always serviced at the dealership, and it's still 100% stock. There is not a single aftermarket part on the car. The sunroof, and the spoiler both work.. I know those are common problems with these. So, with that said.. What could she get for it?
> 
> I need to take more pictures of it..


I would need to know of any maintenance and mileage on the car before I levied a price. One thing that concerns me is that it was daily driven thru 2007. They cars are very prone to rust around the hatch glass. I bet if the rubber seal was lifted up you might see some. That being said it looks like a VERY clean car and a great platform to start from or just to enjoy as is. I would start around $9,500 and accept somewhere around $7,500-$8,500. 

The typical problems with cars like this is that the rubber bushings all need replacement. VR6s always need cooling system parts, head gasket, Chains and what not. Most enthusiasts will want to install fresh brakes, tires and suspension with this having been said clean corrados that haven't been molested are becoming a VERY rare item. I think that $2-$3k after purchase is reasonable.


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## Dolphin B6 S4 (Jul 11, 2012)

Thanks for the insight guys, I forgot to mention that it was always garage kept. I know a few coolant hoses were replaced as well as the heater core at some point. But it's crazy how well these cars have held their value in the past 20 years. It's like an R32 of the early 90s..


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## ajhvw93 (Oct 26, 2009)

Zorn1 said:


> collecting parts for abs delete and i want to make sure i got the right parts:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes that is the correct master


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

I discovered that my passenger door handle is trash, I went to install a new striker and found that the little square peg/pin piece that pushes the striker is just sheared off. What do you guys think I can do? Should I buy a whole different assembly and switch the lock cores, or is there a way to just remove parts of it? I did't even try to take it apart because I didn't want to f*ck my power locks (not that it would matter if it was left unlocked anyway :facepalm: )
Thanks in advance for your help!

Jared


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## vdubin_g60 (Apr 20, 2005)

Im trying to find a set of coilovers for my g60. The front wheels are 16x8 et 20 or 30. There is less than 1.5´´ gap from the wheels and the stock struts. Has anyone else ran in problems like this or should i not worry. Thanks


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## Mudkicker99 (May 11, 2008)

I am looking for the part number for the distributor rotor for a 1992 VR6.

Thanks


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

That's a great looking Corrado you have there man.
Why get rid of it?
Just cover it up (if you are not going to use it) and Stash it in you're garage.
In the years to come, that will be a nice sight to see.


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## Mudkicker99 (May 11, 2008)

blackslcchild said:


> That's a great looking Corrado you have there man.
> Why get rid of it?
> Just cover it up (if you are not going to use it) and Stash it in you're garage.
> In the years to come, that will be a nice sight to see.


Yup, what he said! Unless that $8K will drastically change your life at the moment.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Also what a cool mom, rocking a Corrado. :thumbup:


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## vdubin_g60 (Apr 20, 2005)

Ok now that i found a set of coilovers for my g60. The front wheels are 16x8 et 20 or 30. There is less than 1.5´´ gap from the wheels and the stock struts. Has anyone else ran in problems like this or should i not worry.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

vdubin_g60 said:


> Ok now that i found a set of coilovers for my g60. The front wheels are 16x8 et 20 or 30. There is less than 1.5´´ gap from the wheels and the stock struts. Has anyone else ran in problems like this or should i not worry.


The front should be fine, the distance is to the bottom of the spring perch which moved with the wheel and tire? Coilovers are typically smaller in diameter and this isn't an issue. The real issue is probably in the rear. The tires often rub the springs and require spacers to solve the problem.

Here is a calculator to determine where your new wheels will end up when compared to your old ones. http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator


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## vdubin_g60 (Apr 20, 2005)

I will be dropping the car. So the spring perch will be lower with the coilovers. Below the tires and wheels. Seems like most coils are around 3`` wide mark. Put they do angle away in the front a bit. The wheels are not much wider than others and the ets are manageable with pull fenders.Just thought id ask before spending that kind of money


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## jamm585 (Jan 22, 2003)

Have a 92 VRT and am wiring up my AWIC water pump. I'm wiring retarded and could use some advice as to where I should tap into for 12V ignition switched power? I have a relayed harness for my pump already just need a clean/safe/reliable power source spot. Thanks! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I recently swapped the brake pads on my Corrado.
I have noticed an increase amount of noise while I'm driving.
The noise sounds like the brake pads don't fully retract away from the rotor and "grind".
While I was taking them apart and installing I greased them up on the back and top and bottom, I noticed that there is no metal/aluminum shim on the caliper housing.

When I apply the brake, the noise goes away....
As soon I let go, the grinding/screetching/ noisy noise comes back.



This is on both of the front brake setup. The rear are fine.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

That could be caused by several things. Worn or rusty guide pins. Dried up, crusty grease meant to lubricate said pins. Or most likely, given what you just did, the rubber o-ring on the piston was damaged when you compressed it. 

That black, square shaped o-ring is what actually draws the piston away from the rotor when you release the brake. When the piston is forced forward by hydraulic pressure that o-ring gets deformed. Think of a square rubber eraser. If you put one of it's edges against a desk and push down and forward it would deform. If you then released that pressure it would push your hand back up and return to it's original position. That's how engineers eliminated the return spring on hydraulic disc brakes. 

Brake caliper repair kits include that o-ring. It usually has some colored stripes on it meant to denote it's resistance, not unlike an electrical resistor. Your's were probably tired before you did the brakes and you finished 'em off.


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## CORRADOG60YELLOW (Mar 13, 2014)

*5th gear failure*

Good evening ,
Had a wonderful ride home.
For the past month or so my trans has been poping out of 5th gear on de accel.
Tonight I shifted into 5th "sorta" and the shifter felt like it went too far forward and now is stuck in the 5th position but is not in gear. feels like the shift fork went past the syncro and now will not return.
is that possible ???
Thank you for any input
Andy


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

mateok said:


> That could be caused by several things. Worn or rusty guide pins. Dried up, crusty grease meant to lubricate said pins. Or most likely, given what you just did, the rubber o-ring on the piston was damaged when you compressed it.
> 
> That black, square shaped o-ring is what actually draws the piston away from the rotor when you release the brake. When the piston is forced forward by hydraulic pressure that o-ring gets deformed. Think of a square rubber eraser. If you put one of it's edges against a desk and push down and forward it would deform. If you then released that pressure it would push your hand back up and return to it's original position. That's how engineers eliminated the return spring on hydraulic disc brakes.
> 
> Brake caliper repair kits include that o-ring. It usually has some colored stripes on it meant to denote it's resistance, not unlike an electrical resistor. Your's were probably tired before you did the brakes and you finished 'em off.


Brake caliper repair kit it is.
Will order them ASAP.
Thank you.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

CORRADOG60YELLOW said:


> Good evening ,
> Had a wonderful ride home.
> For the past month or so my trans has been poping out of 5th gear on de accel.
> Tonight I shifted into 5th "sorta" and the shifter felt like it went too far forward and now is stuck in the 5th position but is not in gear. feels like the shift fork went past the syncro and now will not return.
> ...


I know for a fact that in the older 020 trans you could do that, and there is no way to take it out unless you rebuilt it.. I think they fix that with the newer o2a/o2j styles but I am not 100% on that one.


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## SCIROCCO SPEED (Dec 6, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Are there any differences in headliners for a 93+ and a G60 (both with sunroof)?


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

SCIROCCO SPEED said:


> Are there any differences in headliners for a 93+ and a G60 (both with sunroof)?


none


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## SCIROCCO SPEED (Dec 6, 2002)

xtremevdub said:


> none


Awesome! that's what i was hoping to hear! Thanks! :beer:


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

No problem. :thumbup:


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## Hr Hansen (Sep 1, 2012)

*Will they fit*

Hi guys. I will try my question in here. Im on the lookout for new wheels for my Rado. I have fallen a bit in love with the 3SDM 0.05. But my problem is the ET they deliver them in. Im gonna run 8x16 in the front and 9x16 in the back. The ET on the 9 inch is 20 which is ok but for the front 8 inches its only ET 10. Will they fit at all? My fenders have been rolled a little and is currently sitting on 9x16 front and back but I dont know the ET

This are the wheels:


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## CORRADOG60YELLOW (Mar 13, 2014)

xtremevdub said:


> I know for a fact that in the older 020 trans you could do that, and there is no way to take it out unless you rebuilt it.. I think they fix that with the newer o2a/o2j styles but I am not 100% on that one.


OK got a winner, the tabs on the shift fork for the syncro were warn out, bound on the syncro and snapped the head of the bolt that holds all that crap together.
drilled out the bolt, replaced it and stripped my jetta trans for the tabs.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

Hr Hansen said:


> Hi guys. I will try my question in here. Im on the lookout for new wheels for my Rado. I have fallen a bit in love with the 3SDM 0.05. But my problem is the ET they deliver them in. Im gonna run 8x16 in the front and 9x16 in the back. The ET on the 9 inch is 20 which is ok but for the front 8 inches its only ET 10. Will they fit at all? My fenders have been rolled a little and is currently sitting on 9x16 front and back but I dont know the ET
> 
> This are the wheels:


The rears will fit fine.. The fronts will stick out 10mm outside your fender. 



CORRADOG60YELLOW said:


> OK got a winner, the tabs on the shift fork for the syncro were warn out, bound on the syncro and snapped the head of the bolt that holds all that crap together.
> drilled out the bolt, replaced it and stripped my jetta trans for the tabs.


:thumbup:


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## Hr Hansen (Sep 1, 2012)

Ok. Thanks for the answer


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## Danny 171 (Apr 20, 2014)

Hey guys! So I have a 90 Rado G60 and I'm looking for a short shift kit. I was looking on Bahn Brenner but nothing "specifically" fits Corrados so I was wondering if you can make one fit or if someone else makes a good kit. Thank you!


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Anybody know this color code or name?
Thanks.


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## CORRADOG60YELLOW (Mar 13, 2014)

*5th gear fail*



xtremevdub said:


> I know for a fact that in the older 020 trans you could do that, and there is no way to take it out unless you rebuilt it.. I think they fix that with the newer o2a/o2j styles but I am not 100% on that one.


It is a 02 trans. I got the bolt out and afery thing put back together, now will not always go into 5th. I think the syncro got damaged.
Where can i get parts ?


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

I believe there is a guy name "broke" that has all the trans parts you may ever need... I am not 100%... do a quick search and I am sure you will find what I am talking about. Sorry is late and I am passing out...


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## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

*I Have A Question*

I have a 90 G60 Corrado.

What is the part numbers for the rear ABS Sensors? 

I wanna make sure I get the right sensors, thanks. :thumbup:


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

scrapper said:


> *I Have A Question*
> 
> I have a 90 G60 Corrado.
> 
> ...


I'm not a 100% certain about the g60 abs sensors but I know that SLC and mk4 sensors use the same plug and have the same ohms reading across the prongs. The mk4 sensors were all plastic and the corrado SLC sensors had a metal sleeve that would always get seized in the spindles. In vagcat it looks like g60 sensors have the wiring harness integral to the sensor.


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## scrapper (Feb 17, 2007)

I think the G60 rear ABS is different then the VR Corrados.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

scrapper said:


> *I Have A Question* I have a 90 G60 Corrado. What is the part numbers for the rear ABS Sensors? I wanna make sure I get the right sensors, thanks. :thumbup:


Good question. I'm sure this is why I'm getting my ABS light on. Corrosion. 

# 191927807D. Seems to be the same part # for both sides of the rear. 


eBay it's $23.95 free shipping http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-GOLF-JET...D-als542-/150828975689?_trksid=p2054897.l4275
DLR it's $194.28 http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/productSearch.aspx?searchTerm=191927807D
The compatibility list shows this part for all Corrado rear abs

Here's the pic blown up and hosted through tapatalk instead of photobucket. The nice folks at photobucket strong arm you to upgrade your account if too many peeps view your photos. If you don't upgrade they block all your links and compliment you on how popular you are and must upgrade your account. It's a nice way in business to piss on your customers leg and tell them it's rain.










Here's the write up on how to get the ABS sensors out: .... *Ah hell, I'll just copy the entire enchilada over*. Credit goes to Corradog60.com (Neil - Volksdevil) @ http://www.corradog60.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=57&sid=ae1664ae2003e048f703b7cba9e51fbb 

*ABS rear brake sensor removal tip *

Its common for the old sensors to break so the sensor/magnet ends up stuck tight in the hub, a little tip is to place a 13/14mm socket over it and knock it out...just means removing the caliper/carrier/disc.
And if you don't at least have some emory paper or ideally a small finger file you will never get the new sensor in...You have to clean the hole back to absolute bare metal, and then apply a small amount of copper grease.



















And removed...No abs light blinding me anymore []









This is how they're supposed to come off the car. They deff need the copper grease like Neil said. I'd use marine grade grease since it wont wash away when it rains.









I jumped when I saw the Mk IV have plastic sleeves. With just a quick check it shows they have a different connector for the G/J & Beetle .. bummer. There may be a one year only exception though .. not sure


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## SCIROCCO SPEED (Dec 6, 2002)

*FV-QR*

another lame question from me here.... Are there any differences in rain tray and lower windshield trim between G60s and SLCs?


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Both are same part (#536819415A)

The UK cover for the other side (wiper motor cover) pops up on eBay.uk occasionally (# 536819415). Same part # just no letter "a". The matching s/f c/f scuttle cover and wiper arm cover are the way to go. 










http://www.partsbase.org/vw/corrado-cor-eu-1995-136-bodywork-front-part-cross-panel-air-guide/


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## SCIROCCO SPEED (Dec 6, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Thank you for the info!


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## Danny 171 (Apr 20, 2014)

Anyone know where I can get a little strip like this running across the headlights and grill?


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## GT TDI Golf (Jan 27, 2003)

Danny 171 said:


> Anyone know where I can get a little strip like this running across the headlights and grill?
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> Kamei made them and they're probably the most desirable and also rare. Reiger, among others make copies that integrate the badgeless grill with the eyebrow like in the picture.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

> Kamei made them and they're probably the most desirable and also rare and the only ones that actually fit like a glove. Reiger, among others make copies that integrate the badgeless grill with the eyebrow like in the picture.


Fixed for you. :thumbup:


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## jettalvr41 (Oct 26, 2006)

im getting to the part on both my mk2 and my corrado where I will need to start making brake lines again. 

iv seen the thread in the mk1 forum for the recommend brake flairing tool. i just wanted to get corrado guys opnion on tools and where to get the fittings so that way i can do thise job once and not 100 times. 

any help would be appearicated.


----------



## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

I don't really know where else to ask this so I'll just throw it up here. I have an early style door handle with a broken striker contact arm, not the striker itself, the little square plunger that contacts the striker. Is this worth anything to anyone, or should I chuck it in the bin?? Everything else is alright and it even comes with a bogus lock-core if anyone'd be interested. From what I can see it'd be more pain than it's worth to replace that sucker, but these things aren't getting any cheaper.









Sorry about the ****ty close-up quality of my cell-camera.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

*Reverse but car moves forward*

'92 SLC w/46,000 miles.
Since I bought the car last Sept., sometimes when I put the car in reverse the car drives forward when the clutch is engaged. This happens when I push the shifter down and to the left and I can feel that it goes a bit lower and to the left compared to the normal reverse position. It's like the shifter goes down too far and misses the reverse somehow.

I've learned how to push down and to the left to where Reverse works OK most of the time now. I was planning to install the refresh kit parts this Summer. Anything else I should look for (prepare for) before going in there? I didn't see any posts on this specific issue before so your advise or suggested links are requested.

The vehicles clutch feels new and shifting 1, 2, 4 & 5 are smooth. 3 feels like the shifter has to be be wiggled a bit to get in there (very slightly) instead of a smooth transition. Overall, it is shifting well in forward gears.
JD


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## KingS (Jul 13, 2009)

1990 g60 BBM stage 4 kit 62mm pulley 
mechanically inclined: yes I am.
Two questions
First last fall right before I put the Corrado up for the winter it developed a miss here and there then it got worse and did it all the time, but only once the motor gets warm. I have put brand new coil, plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, and even a brand new distributor its self. Also put new blue coolant temperature sensor on Not sure what else to check. I also ohm check the injectors each on checked at exactly 17.4 each one the same ohm reading, the harness is the typical heat cracked which brings me to my next question where can I buy one besides bar-tek? I'm not spending 330 US Dollars to get one. I know you can rebuild yourself but I can't get the parts locally and online I can only find the injector plug and connectors but not the male connector that plugs into the main vehicle harness.

Sorry so long and message me your reply if you can so I get it faster thanks again.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Check your IM. Found one, new, in the Black Sea on eBay.


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## zhemel (Apr 23, 2005)

*Switched power*

Hey guys. I am looking for a good place to find switched power for my aftermarket gauges. I want to run it off the headlight switch. The car is all apart and I can't hook up a battery. What color wires coming out of the headlight switch are switched power vs constant. Or if you have other good tap points let me know. My fuse box is a tangled mess. And don't want to tap it off that.


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## 90corradosparks (Aug 20, 2012)

1990 corrado g60

freshly rebuilt g ladder about 400 miles on it

ability to work on it, know minor things but my neighbor is a mechanic so he helps but he doesnt know about this

so my problem is it doesnt idle right when it starts cold and when it reaches about 200 degrees it starts to idle slightly different. these were all problems i had prior to the rebuild and i took it to a shop and they said it was the g ladder and alternator got both fixed. and about 2 days of driving they started again. oh yeah i took it to the shop cause it caught on fire..........:banghead: and today it just started loosing power and blowing black smoke out the back end. last time this happened it caught on fire so i pulled over and turned it off and it wouldnt start again till it cooled off....


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

90corradosparks said:


> 1990 corrado g60
> 
> freshly rebuilt g ladder about 400 miles on it
> 
> ...


What part of the car caught on fire? A lot of new owners don't know there were a couple recalls when the G60 was new about fuel related issues. It covered a ground strap that would saw it's way through the fuel pump after-run sensor's hose and hose clamps that wouldn't hold the hoses on. 

That was when they were still new, though. Now the wiring harnesses and fusebox's are all jacked up by PO's so, it could be anything. 

It sounds as if you have a classic Digi sensor(s) failure. When a sensor fails the ECU will revert back to a preprogrammed engine map. That map is stupid rich to prevent damage from running lean. You'll need to check not only the sensors, but the wiring for them, also - for the above stated reasons. 

The charger's health won't cause it to run rich. It'll just keep getting slower and slower until you're driving a '79 Rabbit. It'll run just fine without a charger even installed. That wasn't a good diagnosis on the shop's part. Low voltage (alternator) will cause drivability issue. 

There's a gazillion threads about G60's running rich if you don't have a repair manual. There's a dozen Digi sensors to check so, take your time and move in an orderly fashion.


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## CORRADOG60YELLOW (Mar 13, 2014)

xtremevdub said:


> I know for a fact that in the older 020 trans you could do that, and there is no way to take it out unless you rebuilt it.. I think they fix that with the newer o2a/o2j styles but I am not 100% on that one.


FIXED IT!!! The syncro spring was destroyed. Got a new syncro, spring and had to make the 8mm bolt. dealer cost $ 58.00


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## CORRADOG60YELLOW (Mar 13, 2014)

CORRADOG60YELLOW said:


> Well all vacuum lines have been replaced. No difference.. Now for the mind numbing test each sensor 1 by 1 ya friggin hoooo


Sorry it took a while, been fixed-- Fuel pressure regulator made poop!! Sucking gas thru regulator directly into the intake at the vacuum fitting


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## 90corradosparks (Aug 20, 2012)

mateok said:


> What part of the car caught on fire? A lot of new owners don't know there were a couple recalls when the G60 was new about fuel related issues. It covered a ground strap that would saw it's way through the fuel pump after-run sensor's hose and hose clamps that wouldn't hold the hoses on.
> 
> That was when they were still new, though. Now the wiring harnesses and fusebox's are all jacked up by PO's so, it could be anything.
> 
> ...


Thanks guess I'll start looking through the sensors


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## CORRADOG60YELLOW (Mar 13, 2014)

I just got dealing with a similar issue.
My fuel pressure regulator started leaking and was sucking fuel into the intake. Car ran like crap and would have and extended crank like it was flooded--- cus it was---. put a vacuum on the regulator and see if it holds.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

JDCorrado said:


> '92 SLC w/46,000 miles.
> Since I bought the car last Sept., sometimes when I put the car in reverse the car drives forward when the clutch is engaged. This happens when I push the shifter down and to the left and I can feel that it goes a bit lower and to the left compared to the normal reverse position. It's like the shifter goes down too far and misses the reverse somehow.
> 
> I've learned how to push down and to the left to where Reverse works OK most of the time now. I was planning to install the refresh kit parts this Summer. Anything else I should look for (prepare for) before going in there? I didn't see any posts on this specific issue before so your advise or suggested links are requested.
> ...


The engine side parts all look good, no broken linkage parts or brackets. I'll just proceed with my plan to change Trans fluid & install the shifter refresh kit this Summer(All recommended wear items within the linkage).


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

JDCorrado said:


> The engine side parts all look good, no broken linkage parts or brackets. I'll just proceed with my plan to change Trans fluid & install the shifter refresh kit this Summer(All recommended wear items within the linkage).


How old are your master and slave? When mine went out in my G60 it would so something like that when I went into reverse; and it didn't like to go smoothly into third.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

JDCorrado said:


> The engine side parts all look good, no broken linkage parts or brackets. I'll just proceed with my plan to change Trans fluid & install the shifter refresh kit this Summer(All recommended wear items within the linkage).


Just saw this.. Did you pull the boot and check at the shifter linkage inside the car? 
Sometimes there is a tiny C clip missing causing weird problems like that and fixed with nothing. Also.. if it has play you can add a washer in there. A beer cap with a hole in the center seems to work perfect.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

Jaweber --> Master & Slave are Original and no leaks (22yr old). I don't know what else to check for, but they seem OK.
XVDUB --> I'll check inside the boot to see if I can visually identify the difference between the good reverse position and a bad reverse position...I'll post pics if I find anything.
Thanks


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

JDCorrado said:


> Jaweber --> Master & Slave are Original and no leaks (22yr old). I don't know what else to check for, but they seem OK.
> XVDUB --> I'll check inside the boot to see if I can visually identify the difference between the good reverse position and a bad reverse position...I'll post pics if I find anything.
> Thanks


:thumbup:


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## the raptor (Feb 19, 2004)

*Noob Cluster Advise*

1992 G-60, 1.8T conversion running on SDS.
Here's the situation: I have no gauges. My cluster is dead. Wire harness and ecu are gone. Can I still somehow wire the instrument cluster to work?

-basic knowledge of electronics. 

Thanks


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## GTindie (Jun 12, 2002)

*E-Code*

I picked up a set of E-Codes with leveling motors and am waiting for a relayed wiring + leveling loom from rayne (James153)

What switch should I be looking/hunting for? Are the switch and rheostat one switch or two? Do I need any additional items to complete the install?

Any leads as to where I can pick one up is appreciated. Thanks in advance.


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## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

GTindie said:


> I picked up a set of E-Codes with leveling motors and am waiting for a relayed wiring + leveling loom from rayne (James153)
> 
> What switch should I be looking/hunting for? Are the switch and rheostat one switch or two? Do I need any additional items to complete the install?
> 
> Any leads as to where I can pick one up is appreciated. Thanks in advance.


The switch and rheostat are one piece, you just need a switch. The only difference in the switches is 92 and pre interior has a vertical side to side roller and the 93+ interior has a later style switch with a horizontal roller. If you have the harness and two motors hooked into the E codes already, the switch is all you will need.

From your profile it seems you have a 92 slc like me, this is the early switch that goes with our interior:


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

the raptor said:


> 1992 G-60, 1.8T conversion running on SDS.
> Here's the situation: I have no gauges. My cluster is dead. Wire harness and ecu are gone. Can I still somehow wire the instrument cluster to work?
> 
> -basic knowledge of electronics.
> ...


The instrument cluster simply interprets and displays information from different sensors so that it makes sense. As long as you have sensors; eg: VSS, tach output, ECL, oil pressure and temp switches, fuel gauge, turn signals, etc, it'll work. 

You'll need to know how to read a fuse box wiring diagram. U1, U2, and V connectors carry the above mentioned signals to the instrument cluster. 

As I don't know what existing wiring you have, it's impossible for me to tell you what to do. A basic knowledge of electronics is all you need for this project. It's just running wires to complete existing circuits, not creating new one's. You will need to have a solid understanding of how to read a wiring diagram, though.


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## GTindie (Jun 12, 2002)

Thanks so much for the info! I found that switch, shipping included makes it $100, I couldn't find one that ships in the states.


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## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

GTindie said:


> Thanks so much for the info! I found that switch, shipping included makes it $100, I couldn't find one that ships in the states.


This dude has 3 of them on german ebay for 15 euros a piece and theres a bunch of others. Says he'll ship to the states but you need to contact him for specifics.


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## GTindie (Jun 12, 2002)

Found several switches on eBay.de... Thanks for the help while saving me money


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## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

GTindie said:


> Found several switches on eBay.de... Thanks for the help while saving me money


Oh yeah sorry forgot to include the link. Glad to help though. Good luck with install, its a fun toy to have


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## GTindie (Jun 12, 2002)

I'll take the eBay.de link if you have it. I haven't ordered the switch yet. 

Are the 535 941 333 and passat 357 941 333 the same?

Headlights should look brand new as I was able to source new oem lenses and bezel trim from Canada and lamin-x will be on for protection. Took 5 sources to put them together. Can't wait.


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## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

http://www.ebay.de/itm/VW-CORRADO-1...?pt=DE_Autoteile&hash=item4ad409fdbd#shpCntId

There's the link I found. The passat switch is different cause the whole switch body was meant to be mounted vertically.


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## GTindie (Jun 12, 2002)

Ordered the switch from your link, only 25€ including shipping. 

After 20 years of waiting, I was able to obtain a Corrado in February. I am starting the overhaul so I am sure I will be posting more often. I appreciate the help!


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Hello guys, I recently started to have problems with my from brake setup.
Well, not a huge problem because the brakes do stop the car.
Little issue that just irritates me.
While driving I can hear something (brake pads/rotors) "scratching" on my front suspension (I've stuck my head out the window and face west) kinda like dragging brakes. 
I'm getting 3 codes.
#1132
#1112
#1114
Inlet valve 
And outer valve valve coil......what the fudge?


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> Hello guys, I recently started to have problems with my from brake setup.
> Well, not a huge problem because the brakes do stop the car.
> Little issue that just irritates me.
> While driving I can hear something (brake pads/rotors) "scratching" on my front suspension (I've stuck my head out the window and face west) kinda like dragging brakes.
> ...


You need to perform the "test steps" next to the codes in the Bentley. For example: code 1112 => test step 23, 29, and 35. In the next section (Electrical Test of Teves 02 ABS) you'll find the test procedures 1-40. Test 23 will tell you how to test the ground signal for the left front ABS inlet valve. At the top of each test box, you'll find the measuring range e.g. 2 mOhms or 200 Ohms. 


During normal braking operation, the solenoid valves are not controlled by the ABS control module and no current is applied. The inlet valve is open and the outlet valve is closed, porting hydraulic pressure to the brake caliper circuits. 

You either have an open circuit, short circuit, or bad ground between the valve and the control module. A valve failure or CM failure. The ABS light should be on and the system fully deactivated because of this priority one fault. As stated above, the inlet valves are open and outlet closed by default so you can still drive (without ABS). 

The exhaust solenoids are responsible for braking so, in your case, a hanging caliper is due to those. You're testing the winding resistance of the solenoids. There's no provision for repairing the valve block so, if the circuits check out, you'll need to source a replacement if you want to keep ABS.


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Thanks mateok!!!, I'm on it.
 hopefully we can resolve this issue ASAP.


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## GTI-JIM1995 (Nov 14, 2010)

i have a 92 slc that i converted to obd2 for my vrt setup my issue is that i turn the key forward and the alarm wire on the battery terminal got hot and fried the black wire on my ignition switch down to the red plug in the fuse block. i changed that wire made sure no other burns still no start on car also i hear a clicking noise like it would be for the alarm under the cash by the cluster. how can i bypass the alarm.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

GTI-JIM1995 said:


> i have a 92 slc that i converted to obd2 for my vrt setup my issue is that i turn the key forward and the alarm wire on the battery terminal got hot and fried the black wire on my ignition switch down to the red plug in the fuse block. i changed that wire made sure no other burns still no start on car also i hear a clicking noise like it would be for the alarm under the cash by the cluster. how can i bypass the alarm.


You apparently have a faulty alarm control module. I would advise not powering it back up until you've bypassed it, but too late, I guess. That BK wire (circuit 15) isn't fused, as you know by now. 
http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14289


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## GTI-JIM1995 (Nov 14, 2010)

i changed that wire nothing else burned thank god i got lucky there im going to try this and see what happens thank you for the help!


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

*Seized Bolt Removal Tricks Anyone??*

What should've been an afternoon G-Lader bypass and water pump replacement is now approaching a week of work... Thanks to the WI rust belt every bolt I've tried to remove has put up an awful fight. I managed to strip out the lower recessed bolt on the left charger bracket, and had a nightmare messing with that, it was an experience I'm not keen to repeat. Now I've moved on to the AC Compressor bolts and she's fighting harder than ever, both the lower bolts are incredibly stuck. So my question is:

What methods are you guys using to get those REALLY tough ones w/o ruining them??

I ruined three 1/4 inch sockets before I gave in and bought the $1.97 proper attachment from Home Cheapo, but I literally used every ounce of strength I could throw at that thing and it got me nothing! So I turned to the impact driver and used that on it (while being extreeeemly careful not to strip it) and even on full torque it wouldn't budge at all. It's been marinading in PB blaster since yesterday with many reapplications, but I don't think it's sinking in enough to get to the core. The one thing I haven't tried is a torch, so I guess that's my next route when I can get another ride to Home Cheapo, but I'm willing to take any suggestions you guys can throw at me. I've read through a few old posts; maybe there's a trick I haven't stumbled across yet??

Any input is greatly appreciated, Thanks!!

Jared

222nd post... That's kinda cool.

And I officially joined the forums a year ago yesterday!


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

That sucks! See if Harbor Fr or someone else makes an impact wrench that will shake the ****e out of those buggars.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

New hardware is always available so, don't worry about saving stubborn bolts for reuse. You're on the right track with the torch, but it needs to be red hot and that's sometimes not conducive with the surroundings. 

I've been fighting stubborn bolts everyday for years and an air chisel works best for me. Once I decide it can't be saved, it's pretty easy. Use an air chisel. I have a custom made selection of long, really long and short shanked one's. 

Put the bit on the bolt edge and barely pull the trigger. You want blap...blap...blap until it starts to cut into it. You don't necessarily need to be on the edge, either. I've turned plenty from the face. I'm surgical with it now and it's never failed.


----------



## CORRADOG60YELLOW (Mar 13, 2014)

*Door handle broke----*

Any body have an outer door handle 90 g60 ????
Getting tired of crawling across from the passenger side.


----------



## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

mateok said:


> New hardware is always available so, don't worry about saving stubborn bolts for reuse. You're on the right track with the torch, but it needs to be red hot and that's sometimes not conducive with the surroundings.
> 
> I've been fighting stubborn bolts everyday for years and an air chisel works best for me. Once I decide it can't be saved, it's pretty easy. Use an air chisel. I have a custom made selection of long, really long and short shanked one's.
> 
> Put the bit on the bolt edge and barely pull the trigger. You want blap...blap...blap until it starts to cut into it. You don't necessarily need to be on the edge, either. I've turned plenty from the face. I'm surgical with it now and it's never failed.


Air chisel... That's a new one to me, I need to see if I can acquire one from work! Do you know if VW still sells the proper OEM hardware for the AC compressor? Or any other part for that matter? Last time I went in to the Stealership I said Corrado and they basically said "Get out." They told me that my car was an obsolete item and the parts aren't available. Does this mean hardware too?? 

Also: The nearest VW dealer to me is in a rather posh neighborhood and is attached to a Porsche/Mercedes Dealer, so perhaps they don't feel like my business is worth it to them and that's why they were unhelpful.


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## CORRADOG60YELLOW (Mar 13, 2014)

*Its not broken*

Its a shame you local dealership won't help.
I go to mine a lot and only a few times have had a part that was taken out of production.


As for the rusted and stuck bolts, Had that joy with an 88 Fox I was working on. Best thing for that was soak it in a good rust penetrating oil like PB blaster or the GM penetrating oil for a couple of days then hit it with an air gun or breaker bar. Loose than tight and back and forth till she comes loose. 
If it breaks, time for a good drill and bit right down the center of the bolt. Make sure you spot it with a punch first and drill. Start small until the bit your using is 1 sized smaller than the bolt , then try an easy out. By that time the threads of the bolt should come out. If not get a tap....
This will provide hours of enjoyment .


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

CORRADOG60YELLOW said:


> This will provide hours of enjoyment.


Oh I already have hours of enjoyment into this thing, and an entire can of PB blaster, at least this one can be touched with a drill. The last one was in so tight a spot there's no way I'd have been able to drill it out.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

jaweber said:


> Air chisel... That's a new one to me, I need to see if I can acquire one from work! Do you know if VW still sells the proper OEM hardware for the AC compressor? Or any other part for that matter? Last time I went in to the Stealership I said Corrado and they basically said "Get out." They told me that my car was an obsolete item and the parts aren't available. Does this mean hardware too??
> 
> Also: The nearest VW dealer to me is in a rather posh neighborhood and is attached to a Porsche/Mercedes Dealer, so perhaps they don't feel like my business is worth it to them and that's why they were unhelpful.


Hardware, as long as it's not G60 specific, is still available. This diagram shows all the hardware for the A/C compressor. It shows KR, 9A, and PG setups, though. Only #11 (034 903 555B) and #20 (N 014 723 6 - M10x30) are used on the G60. #12 (x2) is used, but it's an M8 nut that can be found at any hardware store, along with #20. 









Let us know what part(s) you need and we'll give you the part numbers. That's how you order parts for the Corrado. Don't mention the car, just give them the part number and tell 'em to order it, done deal. 

If you don't mind paying a little for shipping, I highly recommend you get in touch with Zeb at 1st VW Parts. He's sympathetic to our plight and will take care of you. I work for a VW dealership and it's like pulling teeth to get help from my own parts guys. They see me walk by the window and run like cockroaches. I've started crawling on all fours under the window now.

As far as the posh dealership goes, that's probably all in your head. Everybody there has a boss and you're a customer, period. Parts people are inherently lazy, it's in the job description. If they don't want to help you, ask the GM to order your parts. I've done that and it's quite effective. 

I've worked on my fair share of Porsches. If any of them turn their noses up to you, ask them how their IM shaft bearing is holding up. We have coolant flanges that explode. They have engines that explode.


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

Thanks so much Mateok!! Right now I'm stuck on the #11 bolts from the diagram, but I was able to borrow an air chisel from work today, so first thing tomorrow morning I'm going to give it a very slow go and see if it gets me places. If I still can't get it I'll go out and buy myself a torch, for some reason the people at work wouldn't lend me a fire-spitting tool! :screwy:?? I'll let you guys know when I come across my next problem spot, you're all the best!


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

CORRADOG60YELLOW said:


> Any body have an outer door handle 90 g60 ????
> Getting tired of crawling across from the passenger side.


You could try sending a PM to "oldschool eighty8" he sold me one for like half the price I was quoted by others on here, it sounded like he had a few. The one he sent me was fully functional and all original (I decided to replace the striker with a steal one right away) otherwise just buy a striker kit of that's where it broke. Good luck!


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Here is a question that has just come up for me. I just swapped in a Passat Moon roof (B4 of course) to replace my old B3 Passat moon roof that wasn't sliding right (Thank you g60racer where ever you are for the write up). Not having slide on the roof, I never really touched on the full closure aspect of the sun/moon roofs in these cars. My question now that I have a functional moon roof, is did the early 1990 G60s have full closure on the sun roof. I had swapped the B3 motor to the B4 moon roof because I do have to older style harness. I heard that it is a red/yellow wire that does the closure on the newer ones, and I do not have that wire, just red, brown, and blue. So do I have full closure on my moon roof, or if not, is there a way to set it up for that. 

Also, I finally did the keyless entry mod with a non plug and play Rightclick.com kit, and wired it for one touch closure. I did this because the drivers side door is not lockable from the inside due to brute ignorance and copious amounts of JB weld inflicted by the PO. If anyone is interested in doing this mod, now that I have the wiring figured out for the current model kits that are available, and make other write-ups useful only as vague references, I can do that and post it. the wire colors mostly changed, and the set up is very different, it took a lot of experimentation to get it right. This another reason I want to get the moon roof closure working, it would be awesome to one touch close everything including the roof.

Thanks for the help guys, and like I said if anyone is interested, I will do the write up and post it. It would be a great way for me to give something back to a community that has been so helpful.


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

ArchAngel4 said:


> I did this because the drivers side door is not lockable from the inside due to brute ignorance and copious amounts of JB weld inflicted by the PO.


I thought that was a safety feature to keep from locking your keys in the car, the driver's doors on both my Corrados can't be locked while they are open; its the same on quite a few cars from the 90s I've been in, my roommate's Miata being the first example to pop into my head. Someone correct me if I'm wrong and my C's are both just defunct


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

jaweber said:


> I thought that was a safety feature to keep from locking your keys in the car, the driver's doors on both my Corrados can't be locked while they are open; its the same on quite a few cars from the 90s I've been in, my roommate's Miata being the first example to pop into my head. Someone correct me if I'm wrong and my C's are both just defunct


You are correct in that the door cannot be locked whilst open, however I am referring to its inability to be locked, open or closed, from within by any means. up till now, I had to physically insert the key in the lock to lock the door. The reason behind this is, there is no lock plunger. the PO, broke the little plastic clip that held the lock rod on, and then proceeded to break the rod connection on the vacuum plunger. He then applied copious amounts of JB weld to the vacuum plunger to hold it together instead of replacing it as he should have. now the whole configuration is so messed up in there, that I am hesitant to mess with it until the make-shift patch job finally fails. This is why I opted to repair the central locking system, and install a keyless entry. This was much less trouble, and was a repair needing to be done anyway.


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

^ ^ Got it! :thumbup: Sounds like a good plan.


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## rhoss79 (May 20, 2014)

*Stereo issue*

I'm new to vw's I have a 2002 jetta tdi and the factory radio was junk and some of the speakers were blown. Question is I installed an aftermarket head unit and two amps one for subs and one 4 channel amp for door speakers ran all my own rca's and wires from amps to speaker wires to doors the stereo sounded good for first few days now when the car is running at low volume there is a hum/buzzing coming from all speakers it also changes with car rpm. Anyone else have this problem would a stereo noise filter fix this or is it something else?


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

Bad ground or wrong forum.


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## GTI-JIM1995 (Nov 14, 2010)

92 corrado vrt obd2 swap with mk3 harness. issue im having is im still not getting spark my ecu is a brand new pnp lugtonic ecu. crank sensor is new coil pack is new ignition switch is new everything is new fully rebuilt cant figure out why the bastard isnt getting spark grounds are good as well. any thoughts?


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## GTI-JIM1995 (Nov 14, 2010)

92 corrado vrt obd2 mk3 harness swapped in the issue is when i turn the key on and not over car gets spark but doesnt when cranking????


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

So you have 12volts at the coilpack with the key on? but when you crank it you aren't getting signal to the plugs? 

Could be issue with coil pack, try a new one. Seems like your wiring is okay, has to be plugs, wires, or coilpack related.


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## GTI-JIM1995 (Nov 14, 2010)

coil is brand new from german auto parts even tried another coilpack the issue is when you turn the key to the on position you get a second of spark on the plug end and then no spark when cranking


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

Hmmm. for some reason I want to say there is an issue with relay or wiring then, because IIRC you are only supposed to have power at the coil WHEN cranking, not when the key is turned on... could be wrong though its been a while. Have you sent Kevin Black an email yet?


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## GTI-JIM1995 (Nov 14, 2010)

i did a few days ago no reply i know hes hard to get ahold of hes a busy man


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey all, quick question, did the 1990 G60's have full closure on the sun roof? I can't find any mention of it, and I am trying to make my B4 Passat moon roof swap close with the full closure. Also if they do not, does any one know a way retrofit it for full closure? Thanks all.


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

Finally reassembled my Corrado, and its still running hot, I think I just need to burp the lines because the bottom radiator hose is staying stone cold, any tips??

BTW: New water pump, thermostat (and housing  ), and coolant.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Hey all, quick question, did the 1990 G60's have full closure on the sun roof? I can't find any mention of it, and I am trying to make my B4 Passat moon roof swap close with the full closure. Also if they do not, does any one know a way retrofit it for full closure? Thanks all.


If you're referring to one touch close of the sunroof feature, none of the Corrado had that. The g60 has key in and hold on lock to roll up the windows. The VR6 had the feature added to the sunroof. 



KinetikSLC said:


> Get a DEI 530T Window roll-up/one-touch module.


The very last page and the last paragraph specificly refrence the Corrado in the DEI 530T instruction manual

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1316876-one-touch-sunroofs

http://www.directed.com/guides/manuals/ig/accessories/N530T_1-00.pdf


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey petethepug, I was indeed referring to the in-the-door-handle windows roll up function. So the G60s did not have that huh. Is there anyway to retrofit a G60 to have that? I did the keyless entry mod, and now my windows roll up at the push of a button. It would be nice if my moon roof would close the same way to.


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

1993 Corrado SLC, stock as can be

Spoiler does not raise or lower, manually or at speed.

I'm moderate...give me a DIY and I can do it...unless it's electrical...then I'm screwed.

Backstory is that car has sat since November, PO disconnected something to do with spoiler and sunroof in testing automatic seatbelt issues. I don't know what he disconnected. Cluster works, cruise works, MFA works.

I purchased the car and am working through it's kinks starting with the spoiler. I traced the Black/Blue wire which goes back to the M/5 connector, as well as the Brown ground wire which goes back to K/11. They are both connected. I've disconnected and reconnected both the dash switch, and the control module. I have attempted to raise and lower the spoiler via the switch while holding the control module and I do not feel any clicking or any sort of activity. I have checked the trunk, everything appears to be connected, the manual knob is pushed in, I pulled it out, tested the up and down motion, worked fine, put the spoiler back down and relocked the knob. The car does have an aftermarket radio in it, which I removed in my testing.

Opinions?

UPDATE: I just went back out and swapped some fuses around, low and behold I have a short. This is Fuse 16, any common places that would short out? I disconnected everything I know runs on that fuse, spoiler switch, spoiler control module, sunroof motor, ABS light and glove box light...


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

jaweber said:


> Finally reassembled my Corrado, and its still running hot, I think I just need to burp the lines because the bottom radiator hose is staying stone cold, any tips??
> 
> BTW: New water pump, thermostat (and housing  ), and coolant.


So my thermostat kicked open and I drove around for like twenty minutes and my C didn't overheat, its just running at a higher temperature than it did before. I also replaced the blue and black coolant sensors recently, would that have an adverse affect on my operating temp?? Also installed a low temp fan switch (which does nothing... my fan still only runs when I turn the defrost on) and a low temp thermostat.


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

Spent the morning with the seat out crammed under the dash. I completely disconnected the fusebox. I did find a ground wire with no connector on it just hanging out but its not a part of the same circuit as the spoiler. There are a few single plugs not connected under there but I cannot find matching connectors anywhere

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

Completely disconnected the fusebox this morning, and reconnected it (most likely not all of it....damn there are a lot of plugs and wires) I can now put a fuse into 16, and turn the car to ACC and it won't pop off, AND I can raise the spoiler manually. However, if I try to put it down, a 15a fuse pops, if I try it with a 30a in there...just for testing...it will go up, but does not try to go down, I have the ABS/Brake light out and visible and when I press the down part of the switch that bulb dims.


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## yip (Jul 14, 2003)

Inkarnata said:


> Completely disconnected the fusebox this morning, and reconnected it (most likely not all of it....damn there are a lot of plugs and wires) I can now put a fuse into 16, and turn the car to ACC and it won't pop off, AND I can raise the spoiler manually. However, if I try to put it down, a 15a fuse pops, if I try it with a 30a in there...just for testing...it will go up, but does not try to go down, I have the ABS/Brake light out and visible and when I press the down part of the switch that bulb dims.


The issue is most likely the wing motor itself. The issue you are having is very common and can usually be remedied by pulling the motor apart and cleaning it internally. If you keep trying to make it go up and down you might fry the internal connectors. Like I said pretty common and one of the signs is that you can get it to go up but when it tries to go back down the fuse pops. Don't make the mistake of running a higher amp fuse because it will melt the internal connector. 

Here is DIY thread on how to disassemble the wing motor:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1778172

Just realized the pics no worky. You should be able to figure it out. If you do not feel like going through the trouble I think petethepug has the line on where to buy a replacement motor.


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

That was the assumption I went under last night and I removed the spoiler and started cleaning up the internals...working on putting it back together today.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


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## drkreign (Sep 2, 2005)

Does anyone one know off the top of their head if the TRW and ZF racks have the same thread size and pitch? The metal on my PS return line has started rusting so I need to replace it but Advance auto is the only one that has one available for a 90 G60, want to make sure my VR ZF rack will take a possible TRW return. 

Thanks!


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## Chase23 (Aug 11, 2009)

Came across this corrado on cl

thinking about offering $1200
What do you guys think??


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## clintg60-16v (Dec 13, 2002)

I think that deals like that on CL don't last long, so you should already be there negotiating instead of telling us.


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## Chase23 (Aug 11, 2009)

clintg60-16v said:


> I think that deals like that on CL don't last long, so you should already be there negotiating instead of telling us.


 Even with the problems listed??


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

Chase23 said:


> Even with the problems listed??


yes


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

I know the Corrado suffers from oddball issues and things other car owners would never dream of having to worry about, but I swear mine has dumb issues just to bother me. My friends tell me it's because I love the car so much and put so much effort into it that it's trying to let me down easy and have me get rid of it before something blows up and I'm disappointed in it. Little things like no matter what I do I've never been able to get both side markers to work at the same time, there's always an issue with one or the other. Or my foglamps, they didn't work at all when I got the car despite the PO's insistence that they work fine, and then a month later one worked, then the other worked, they both worked for a year until last week I was back down to none, and now I'm at one again. Or the power steering, I haven't had power steering for a year (almost exactly to the day) until Friday it miraculously started working again and it's worked all weekend without a hitch, how does THAT happen?? 
Has anyone else had similar issues with unexplainable little things like this?? I'm just curious.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

jaweber said:


> I know the Corrado suffers from oddball issues and things other car owners would never dream of having to worry about, but I swear mine has dumb issues just to bother me. My friends tell me it's because I love the car so much and put so much effort into it that it's trying to let me down easy and have me get rid of it before something blows up and I'm disappointed in it. Little things like no matter what I do I've never been able to get both side markers to work at the same time, there's always an issue with one or the other. Or my foglamps, they didn't work at all when I got the car despite the PO's insistence that they work fine, and then a month later one worked, then the other worked, they both worked for a year until last week I was back down to none, and now I'm at one again. Or the power steering, I haven't had power steering for a year (almost exactly to the day) until Friday it miraculously started working again and it's worked all weekend without a hitch, how does THAT happen??
> Has anyone else had similar issues with unexplainable little things like this?? I'm just curious.


Nice. Those are called gremlins and every car has them, even new one's. They're usually corrected by means of a discrete recall, excluding GM, and nobody makes a fuss. But, for some reason when they happen on an older car, people think you should get rid of it and buy a new one?

The side markers and fog lights sound like a power or ground (circuit) issue. That's not uncommon for 20+ year old wiring. I guess those same people sell their homes and buy new one's when a hair dryer trips the breaker? All you need is the wiring diagram (map) and a test light (compass) to find that problem. 

The power steering is strange. That's entirely mechanical, so it's either the pump, fluid, lines, or rack. The pump is nothing more than a cylinder that spins inside a housing. It has little rectangle shaped pieces of metal called vanes that sit in cuts made into the cylinder. Centrifugal force makes them slide out and create a seal against the pump housing. Moisture and accumulated crud, over time, will cause those to become seized. It sounds as if your vanes "un-seized" themselves. That's like smacking a seized starter or window motor with a hammer, temporary at best. 

All power steering pumps can be rebuilt, even the old school G60 one's. Rebuild kits are readily available (Rock Auto). If you'd like to do it, I can send you a detailed tutorial w/pics and the part number for a proper SKF bearing. The kits come with bearings made from old sewage pipes and children's worn down discarded marbles. 

You must investigate these anomalies and spend money to correct them. New cars tolerate neglect better than older ones, but they'll all fail in the end because of it.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Chase23 said:


> Just came across this ad on CL
> 
> http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/4480559015.html
> 
> ...





I've seen that a couple of days now and think its a bargain. It's a great platform for a full overhaul or for parting out. It really just needs a clutch/door handle/timing chains and probably $3k to be a good driver


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

G60ING said:


> I've seen that a couple of days now and think its a bargain. It's a great platform for a full overhaul or for parting out. It really just needs a clutch/door handle/timing chains and probably $3k to be a good driver


I've actually thought about buying this car to recreate the Peter Aschwanden exploded rabbit.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

I sent him an e-mail when it first hit. Haven't heard from him. It's local to me and worth a look for that money. I rarely drive the two I already have so, maybe it's for the best.


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## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

Okay so my idle is starting to get jacked up again. After I replaced my o2 last august I had a rock solid 750 idle. Now it's around 1050, a rough missing idle.

If the rad fan turns on it goes to 950, and if I roll up the windows or turn the air vent fan on the idle bumps up to 1100. Anyone experienced anything like this, got any ideas? I want to say my o2 just went bad again because the car has pretty similar symptoms to when that happened. But the sensor is only 10 months old and I haven't seen the idle go up/down with electrical consumption before.

It's mainly an idle issue but it did cut out once last week on the highway, I was going 65 and it just died. Had the rough missing high idle and but it started back up after I let it cool down a bit.


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## GTI-JIM1995 (Nov 14, 2010)

92 corrado slc obd1 converted to obd2 with MK3 harness got the car to start lugtronic ecu was bad but with this harness my cluster does not work or radio or windows any input on this?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Slider388 said:


> Okay so my idle is starting to get jacked up again. After I replaced my o2 last august I had a rock solid 750 idle. Now it's around 1050, a rough missing idle.
> 
> If the rad fan turns on it goes to 950, and if I roll up the windows or turn the air vent fan on the idle bumps up to 1100. Anyone experienced anything like this, got any ideas? I want to say my o2 just went bad again because the car has pretty similar symptoms to when that happened. But the sensor is only 10 months old and I haven't seen the idle go up/down with electrical consumption before.
> 
> It's mainly an idle issue but it did cut out once last week on the highway, I was going 65 and it just died. Had the rough missing high idle and but it started back up after I let it cool down a bit.


A random shutdown while driving is not uncommon with a VR6. That should serve as fair warning for things to come. It'll start doing it more often, requiring a foot bail until it cools back down. You'll return to it a couple hours later and it'll start up like a champ. 

Unfortunately, there's not a single component that causes it, but rather several and sometimes they gang up to maximize their misery. 

Wiggle the coil wires (BK, BK/R and B) while the car is running and see if it cuts out. 
- faulty ignition switch
- failing crank sensor
- faulty ECM relay
You can install all the new o2 sensors you want, but if the harness side wires are toast, it won't matter. 

The VR6 will cut out if it gets too hot. Does your fan work? Have you done any A/C work recently? Too much freon will cause the idle to bounce around. It doesn't like it when there's not enough, either. 

Fluctuating current while using accessories is often a sign of a failing alternator. The RPM's increase to compensate for the lack of voltage. The ISV is also in that mix, unfortunately. Lots of things to check. According to the Surgeon General, a small amount of alcohol while doing those is good for you.:thumbup:


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## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

mateok said:


> A random shutdown while driving is not uncommon with a VR6. That should serve as fair warning for things to come. It'll start doing it more often, requiring a foot bail until it cools back down. You'll return to it a couple hours later and it'll start up like a champ.
> 
> Unfortunately, there's not a single component that causes it, but rather several and sometimes they gang up to maximize their misery.
> 
> ...



Hahaha thanks for the input!

Lets see, ignition switch died and got replaced last week.
-Crank sensor could be, when they start to fail don't they get worse with heat or something? I remember I did a resistance check on it last summer and it was good, might be time for another.
-ECM relay is about 14 months old now...could be starting to go intermittent but I feel like I'd have more issues.
-Fans work but since my rad temp switch went out a couple weeks ago they're on a switch. The one time it did die out on the highway I had let the oil get all the way up to 216 and water around 230. Usually I'm around 190-205 oil (aftermarket cooler) and 200-215 water (std temp everything).
-A/C has been discharged since I bought the car so I assume the low pressure switch never lets the compressor even turn on.
-Alternator got load tested about 12 months ago and was at 110a. Might be time for a new one. I wonder where my spare is.
-ISV is clean and lubed but sometimes does seem a bit sticky. I'll swap in another and see.
-I guess I should take a looksie at the o2 harness also, huh

I think I will heed the surgeon general's advice on this once. :laugh::beer:


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

Anybody know the fix for a leaking PS line which runs under the coolant reservoir? Not sure if this is a common issue or not. Noticed drops under the car and traced it back to a line that feeds into a rubber hose/liner that is under the coolant reservoir. Looks to be leaking there and dripping towards front of car.


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

To reattach your Corrado emblem. A or B?



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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

93 Corrado w/ DE Brakes, non-ABS.

I just did front brakes on the car, Brembo rotors, Hawk HPS pads. I now have a popping/knocking noise when hard braking. Read online to change your pads but these are new. What else to look for? I have taken them apart twice looking for something loose or broken but nothing.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

About a buck each at the dealer and you'll need four # 191853615A. It the tabs are broken or you're talking about the g60 or VR badge use










If you're going to tape it do it right just once


http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-Automoti...1302058155&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> 93 Corrado w/ DE Brakes, non-ABS.
> 
> I just did front brakes on the car, Brembo rotors, Hawk HPS pads. I now have a popping/knocking noise when hard braking. Read online to change your pads but these are new. What else to look for? I have taken them apart twice looking for something loose or broken but nothing.


Did you seat the outer spring on the pads the right way on the caliper? 
sometimes when one of those springs is off (happens) you get noises from the calipers.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

No springs on the front calipers that I saw.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> No springs on the front calipers that I saw.


A popping sound while braking sounds like a suspension issue. More accurately, the control arm bushing(s) or ball joint. Does it do it in reverse, as well? 

Did you use the set screw when installing the new rotor or is it sheered off in the hub?


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

Does anyone have pictures of what the clips for the power windows look like? my windows dont roll down, but my sunroof opens. I dont think I'm getting power to the switches. 

Also what fuse/relay is connected to the window?


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

Have not done it in reverse but will try this afternoon.

The set screw was initially stripped out but was able to use an ez-out to get the rest out and put a new set screw in.

I'll check to see if the controls arms bolt are tight. I'll jack it up and pull on the wheels to see of the ball joint is bad as well. 

Just odd that happened after replacing brakes and didn't do it before.

Thanks for the next couple of steps to try.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

The sunroof and windows are fused separately. The window fuse is a 20A above the fusebox, clipped onto the power window control circuit breaker (fancy name for relay).


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

mateok said:


> The sunroof and windows are fused separately. The window fuse is a 20A above the fusebox, clipped onto the power window control circuit breaker (fancy name for relay).


I believe it has its own fuse mount location too right? Thick red wire going in and out of it, then connects to this sort of 3 in 1 white clip that goes into fuseblock, right?? 

If so, that fuse is good and its plugged in...maybe i have a dead power port on the fuseblock. Gotta try switching it to another post on the back of block.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Word travels fast. One complete spoiler motor assembly sent out to Inkarnata. Thanks yip!! I'll post that zender shifter out to you when I find it in the garage. Send me your new addr.



Inkarnata said:


> Completely disconnected the fusebox this morning, and reconnected it (most likely not all of it....damn there are a lot of plugs and wires) I can now put a fuse into 16, and turn the car to ACC and it won't pop off, AND I can raise the spoiler manually. However, if I try to put it down, a 15a fuse pops, if I try it with a 30a in there...just for testing...it will go up, but does not try to go down, I have the ABS/Brake light out and visible and when I press the down part of the switch that bulb dims.
> 
> 
> yip said:
> ...


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

Thank you sir. Got any other goodies stashed?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

mateok said:


> A popping sound while braking sounds like a suspension issue. More accurately, the control arm bushing(s) or ball joint. Does it do it in reverse, as well?
> 
> Did you use the set screw when installing the new rotor or is it sheered off in the hub?


Does not do it in reverse. This is just not a single pop. The popping continues while braking until you get below like 10 mph. I've had the popping issues from the control arm and that seemed yo only happen when taking off. 


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> Does not do it in reverse. This is just not a single pop. The popping continues while braking until you get below like 10 mph. I've had the popping issues from the control arm and that seemed yo only happen when taking off.


There are supposed to be springy things on the top of the pad that interlock with the slots in the calipers to keep the pads pressed towards the wheel hub. Did your pads have these and did you get them seated OK? I don't have a pad here to take a picture of. You can see them pretty clearly on the pictures at germanautoparts web site. If the rotors have any marks on them, like dust grooves or wear marks they can grab the pad and make it "click" against the caliper if those springs are missing or broken. I've also had aftermarket pads that were just a smidge too big to fit easily in the caliper bracket that needed a touch with a file to get seated. Tough to diagnose without hearing it, could also be a CV joint or a wheel bearing or the sway bar end links hitting things.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

I know what you are talking about. The seated fine into the piston. The rotors and pads are both brand new. Everything seems tight. Jacked the car up and pulled on the wheel and has no movement. Up and down then front to back. 

Doesn't happen when slowing down just hard braking and the noise is continuos till the car stops i let up on them. 


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

So I'm still having those pesky brake noises.
I have no leaks, brand new brake calipers( piston,covers, bolts, sliding pins, etc) new ebc slotted 3gd rotors, and ceramic red stuff ebc brake pads. Bleed the system correctly (using two people method). I hear the pads dragging and making a slight contact with the rotors making an annoying sound as I just drive around and increases stupendously as I apply the brakes.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

*VR6 swap staying OBD1*

OK, now I have a question. I picked up a used VR6 out of a '98 Jetta (plastic cam cover) to use while I'm working on the Corrado's engine. My Corrado is all original OBD1 coilpack engine electronics, although the engine's been replaced once already (from a '95 GTI if I remember) after some action in deep water.

I have built up the Jetta engine using my spare OBD1 parts except for: Cam position sensor, cam trigger wheel, front knock sensor, rear knock sensor, and crank position sensor & trigger wheel. My spare Corrado OBD1 engine harness that I have plugs right into these sensors, and the cam trigger wheel has a single "flag" like the Corrado picture in Bentley, not the complicated shape. I don't know what the crank trigger wheel is supposed to look like.

Am I all set with the Jetta engine or will I need to swap sensors with the Corrado engine?


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> Doesn't happen when slowing down just hard braking and the noise is continuos till the car stops i let up on them.


This *really* make me think something not brake related, maybe suspension is hitting something, maybe the CV joint hitting the trans mount or something. 
I had sounds like this once that ended up being the exhaust downpipe hitting the steering rack, only happened on hard braking when a bad motor mount let the engine shift around. It actually sounded like the engine pinging really bad and went away as soon as I let off the brake.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

Here are 3 videos of the noise. One from the drivers side, one from front and one passenger side. I don't think it's brake related either or I think I would feel it in the pedal.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

Kind of hard to hear, but you can make out the clunk towards the end of each video.


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> Kind of hard to hear, but you can make out the clunk towards the end of each video.


If this happen after upgrading your brakes. Then there a issue there. If you installed DE brakes. Those are 288mmx25mm rotors too. There is a retaining spring (anti-rattle spring) that clips into the outer holes and put tension on caliper carrier. Let see picture of brakes without wheel on. How were the guide pins bushing too?


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

The rattle clips are on. The guide pins were greased. The DE setup has been on the car for about 5 years or so. 


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

That sounds like a lug on one of the adapters clunking or a sway bar bushing that's toast.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

The adapters are good and torqued down to the same specs as the wheels. 

I am going to go over the sway bar again and see but I would guess that if it was a swaybar, control arm or ball joint that it wouldn't happen repeatedly. I will have to take another video, but when I brake I get multiple clunks till the car stops or till I get below a certain speed.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

I appreciate all the input as it does make me look at things I wouldn't have thought of.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> I appreciate all the input as it does make me look at things I wouldn't have thought of.


Can you reproduce the sound with the wheels off the ground, i.e. on a lift or jack stands?


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

I have thought about doing that not sure how warm and fuzzy I feel about it though.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

Doesn't do it on jackstands, at least nothing I can hear. I changed the sway bar end bushing, still the same noise. Took it out on a faster road to get the car up to 55, then pushed the pedal half way in. It is speed related, the faster I am going and then stop, the quicker the clunking is and it tapers off as the speed drops. Buddy of mine said the rotors may need to be turned although they are new. He has seen new rotors not have a smooth friction surface. He said to take a wiz wheel to them and see if that solves the issue.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Is it just one clunk or multiple clunking?

Did you verify the control arm bushings condition? Tight kframe bolts?


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Could the motor be shifting and hitting something? On one of my cars my transmission would sometimes hit a custom IC pipe and make a thunk type sounds under extreme conditions.


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## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> Doesn't do it on jackstands, at least nothing I can hear. I changed the sway bar end bushing, still the same noise. Took it out on a faster road to get the car up to 55, then pushed the pedal half way in. It is speed related, the faster I am going and then stop, the quicker the clunking is and it tapers off as the speed drops. Buddy of mine said the rotors may need to be turned although they are new. He has seen new rotors not have a smooth friction surface. He said to take a wiz wheel to them and see if that solves the issue.


That more for brake squeaks. He must be audi tech using wiz wheel! Lol. Check the basic. Make sure ther ball joint play(up-down) tie rod play(left-right in wheel when off the ground. Check control arm bushing if they are torn or worn with pry bar wedge between the subframe and control. It should have be little play. Check the steering rack rubber bushing if not worn. Also check steering bolts if they are tight. Check sway-bar bushing too. You already replace the links. One last thing, check all subframe bolts too and engine mounts bolts.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Ha, don't put an abrasive wheel on new rotors. A lathe is the proper tool for that. You're guaranteed to have uneven rotors if you do. You'll need to put it back in the air and remove the wheels to verify rotor runout. Your buddy does have a valid point, though. Most aftermarket car parts are made with little or no quality control now. We want cheap, so that's what we get.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

If there are rotor issues, you will feel them in the pedal.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

I had a motor mount that did that on the g60. It only occurred when braking uphill turning right. Thankfully Aaron from Autotech took the car for a test drive with me and nailed it.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

G60ING said:


> If there are rotor issues, you will feel them in the pedal.


Frank, that is what I thought as well.

They are Brembo rotors which aren't really cheap and I have never had an issue with them in the past.

I don't see any motor movement which makes me think that the motor mounts are good. The tranny mount was replaced about a month ago when I swapped trannys out.

No wheel movement when I grab the wheel from top and bottom and wiggle. No wheel movement when I grab left and right side and wiggle. 

Control arm bolts are tight.

Car drives fine. Accelerates with no noises, slow stops has no noises. Pedal half way in to stop is when it happens.

Did brakes on Saturday, drove car on Friday with no noises.

A guy was telling me to go back and retorque the carrier bolts back down. Could have movement in it causing the clunking sound. Thought I would feel any issues with the brakes themselves in the pedal but not sure now.

The frequency of the clunking is speed related. The faster I am going then stop the quicker it clunks and as I slow the down the clunking slows with it.

Another issue that was brought up was strut bearings but car turns with no noises. Maybe strut mount bushings? I do have some up/down play in the strut but it doesn't make any noise going over bumps.

I don't want to throw parts at it to see what fixes it but I do have new rotors and pads coming (Meyle rotors and Mintex pads).


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

I'm there on suspecting the caliper carrier bolts. I had a Tacoma that suffered from a similar issue but it would only clunk once per brake application. Worst case put the old rotors back on and see if the problem goes away. Then swap them out for the new rotors again. It's a time suck but it's a HUGE safety and sanity issue.


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## GTindie (Jun 12, 2002)

*Wiring*

Hi Guru's! I'm in the process of rewiring with the help of an amazing shop, we are still working on correcting the circuit for the headlights.

I need to replace the turn signal stalk, I have non functioning Cruise Control, can I replace with a stalk that does not include the Cruise Control function?

I still need to test the Instrument Cluster Voltage Stabilizer, if it tests bad Bentley says the entire instrument cluster printed circuit and housing must be replaced. True? Does anyone have info on this. My Gas needle will not go to full and does slightly fluctuate so I want to see if the stabilizer is to blame.

Thanks in advance!


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## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

GTindie said:


> Hi Guru's! I'm in the process of rewiring with the help of an amazing shop, we are still working on correcting the circuit for the headlights.
> 
> I need to replace the turn signal stalk, I have non functioning Cruise Control, can I replace with a stalk that does not include the Cruise Control function?
> 
> ...


Not positive on the cluster. You can indeed install a non cruise control stalk, but you'll have to find one off of a euro spec corrado as all american ones had cruise.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

I believe one from a MK2 will work.

Torsten added one to his car.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1994/volkswagen/golf/body_electrical/turn_signal_switch.html

From a MK3.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

GTindie said:


> I still need to test the Instrument Cluster Voltage Stabilizer, if it tests bad Bentley says the entire instrument cluster printed circuit and housing must be replaced. True? Does anyone have info on this. My Gas needle will not go to full and does slightly fluctuate so I want to see if the stabilizer is to blame.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


If the temp gauge is acting stupid, too, that would point towards the voltage stabilizer. It's not replaceable on a VR like it is on a G60. I would suspect the fuel sender or it's circuit before the cluster. 

Assuming you don't have VW1301; you can test it per Bentley using a multimeter and this conversion chart. 
http://www.bentleypublishers.com/tech/vw/bentley.vw1301.testing.htm


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

VW still sells the (P# 357919803) voltage regulator for the late model clusters. That part # brought up a dude in Japan that replaced it. The write up is going through a translator so it will take a minute to load up. 

EKTA: http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/prod...age-regulator-VIBRATOR/5391265/357919803.html

The write up: http://www.microsofttranslator.com/...jp/userid/889486/car/743790/1349640/note.aspx


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

So I'm still having those pesky brake noises.
I have no leaks, brand new brake calipers( piston,covers, bolts, sliding pins, etc) new ebc slotted 3gd rotors, and ceramic red stuff ebc brake pads. Bleed the system correctly (using two people method). I hear the pads dragging and making a slight contact with the rotors making an annoying sound as I just drive around and increases stupendously as I apply the brakes.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

blackslcchild said:


> So I'm still having those pesky brake noises.
> I have no leaks, brand new brake calipers( piston,covers, bolts, sliding pins, etc) new ebc slotted 3gd rotors, and ceramic red stuff ebc brake pads. Bleed the system correctly (using two people method). I hear the pads dragging and making a slight contact with the rotors making an annoying sound as I just drive around and increases stupendously as I apply the brakes.


are you non-abs?


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Abs^^^


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

blackslcchild said:


> Abs^^^


Well I know that on a non abs brake booster when is bad, it could start grabbing the brakes like you described. Also could happen with heat if you removed the heat shield that all the brake boosters have. They are there for a reason.


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## GTindie (Jun 12, 2002)

petethepug said:


> VW still sells the (P# 357919803) voltage regulator for the late model clusters. That part # brought up a dude in Japan that replaced it. The write up is going through a translator so it will take a minute to load up.
> 
> EKTA: http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/prod...age-regulator-VIBRATOR/5391265/357919803.html
> 
> The write up: http://www.microsofttranslator.com/...jp/userid/889486/car/743790/1349640/note.aspx


Amazing. I was actually looking at that exact part on the Jim Ellis site. I bought it as well as the printed circuit. Also bought oem new fog + headlight switch and both wiper and turn stalks. 

I checked the headlight and fog switch. Neither appear to have any overheating issue from the ground. Any relays that should be tested? Any other bits that should replace?

I really appreciate everyone's help!


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

Changed the strut mounts out. Still did the same thing.
Changed the rotors out. Still did the same thing.
Changed the pads out. Fixed the issue.

A buddy of mine told me to look at the pads and see if they were directional pads and if they were, make sure the arrow was facing the right way. I didn't know pads were directional but the Mintex I bought to replace the Hawks had an arrow on them. I didn't see an arrow on the Hawks. But the pads were the last thing I did and no more clunking.


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

After further investigation of my windows not rolling down, I'm not sure what the issue could be. 

I check fuse 14, good. Checked the separate 20amp fuse mounted on top of block and that was also good but I changed it for good measure anyways. I checked that the wires had power which they do. 

My mirrors work but I can't get the windows to go down. The mirrors are kind of touchy though. I have to be really gentle with the controller in order for them to work...it could be age or it could be related to the windows not working as well? Door locks work through the door handle so I know the door is getting power. 

Thanks!
Tim


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

Is it both windows? I had a problem with the passenger side switch. It was in the constant up position causing both to not go down. I disconnected the switch and then tried it and got the drivers side to go down.


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

It is both sides. I will have to take door off and try to unplug. See what happens then.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

You can pry the switch up from the door panel and disconnect it. That way you don't have to the panel off.


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## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

I just fixed my window issue of neither window working/ sometimes both work intermittently. For me it was just the window relay in the main fuse box.


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

Slider388 said:


> I just fixed my window issue of neither window working/ sometimes both work intermittently. For me it was just the window relay in the main fuse box.


Which relay is that?


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## CORRADOG60YELLOW (Mar 13, 2014)

*Outer door handle*

Hey, Any body have and exterior door handle-- drivers side just went belly up
Thanx


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> Changed the strut mounts out. Still did the same thing.
> Changed the rotors out. Still did the same thing.
> Changed the pads out. Fixed the issue.
> 
> A buddy of mine told me to look at the pads and see if they were directional pads and if they were, make sure the arrow was facing the right way. I didn't know pads were directional but the Mintex I bought to replace the Hawks had an arrow on them. I didn't see an arrow on the Hawks. But the pads were the last thing I did and no more clunking.


I didn't know about directional pads either, glad it's fixed. Did the "bad" pads look ok?


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

CORRADOG60YELLOW said:


> Hey, Any body have and exterior door handle-- drivers side just went belly up
> Thanx


Here is what is probably the best solution for you but the problem is that the seller has a spotty history (search here on the vortex): http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/141202800396?lpid=82









One of these days I need to buy a set, one thing that I was told a long time ago by a vW tech is that the striker breaks because the lock assembly gets grit inside it friction builds up, so no matter what you do clean it and lube the lock assembly (rectangle in the door) and you should have a long door handle life. Its a PITA to clean:thumbup: 

here is what i'm talking about needing cleaning and lubing:


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## CORRADOG60YELLOW (Mar 13, 2014)

G60ING said:


> Here is what is probably the best solution for you but the problem is that the seller has a spotty history (search here on the vortex): http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/141202800396?lpid=82
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Unfortunately I need more than that. The handle its self is broken and the horse shoe fell off in 2 pieces


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## CORRADOG60YELLOW (Mar 13, 2014)




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## the raptor (Feb 19, 2004)

*Pedals*

Looking to get some Porsche pedals with left foot rest (preferably), would not mind tt ones either. Anyone know where to get somthing that will fit? I am not sure how much work needs to be done here, some insight would be appreciated as well. Thanks


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

http://www.vwgolf-info.nl/overige_modellen/pdf/Inbouw van een Rust pedaal van de TT in Corry.pdf





the raptor said:


> Looking to get some Porsche pedals with left foot rest (preferably), would not mind tt ones either. Anyone know where to get somthing that will fit? I am not sure how much work needs to be done here, some insight would be appreciated as well. Thanks


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

the raptor said:


> Looking to get some Porsche pedals with left foot rest (preferably), would not mind tt ones either. Anyone know where to get somthing that will fit? I am not sure how much work needs to be done here, some insight would be appreciated as well. Thanks


These are from the 337, I prefer the rare dots over the tt and the r pedals. I think the dots are more rare too!










To fit these I had to get 2 one pedal, I think the brake pedal has a hole in it and I had to straighten the gas pedal in a vise between two blocks of wood. The mk4 gas pedal is curved more thank the mk2/mk3


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## the raptor (Feb 19, 2004)

*Tt dead pedal*

This is perfect! Much appreciated, thank you.


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## the raptor (Feb 19, 2004)

I think I'm after more of the tt feel G60ing, I appreciate it though. I'll use your idea to bend the gas pedal as well.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

Seeing a small oil leak from my OEM '92 VR6 oil cooler. It looks to be the original one, likely ready for new gaskets but I'll probably replace the whole assembly and hoses. Anyway, anybody have one of these blow out on them? I'm looking to get to EuroHanger on June 28 "as is" because no time to swap out parts. In the mean time, I'll order me up some parts.
JD


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

JDCorrado said:


> Seeing a small oil leak from my OEM '92 VR6 oil cooler. It looks to be the original one, likely ready for new gaskets but I'll probably replace the whole assembly and hoses. Anyway, anybody have one of these blow out on them? I'm looking to get to EuroHanger on June 28 "as is" because no time to swap out parts. In the mean time, I'll order me up some parts.
> JD


I've seen astronomical failure on the oil coolers in 2.0s, but I know nothing about the Vr ones; I'll see you at EuroHanger though!! I'm really looking forward to going. How far is it for you?


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

^^^About 170 miles to E-Hanger.
A few drops accumulate on the oil cooler after a drive and the leak is coming from the outer seal. I tried to tighten the large bolt cap but it didn't really turn...and didn't want to over torque it using a crescent wrench. The leak has been going on for the last few hundred miles (since March or April I noticed it). And have been monitoring it...the drips aren't getting worse but I'm thinking I need to just get it replaced. I only put about 100 to 200 miles per month on the car.

I didn't replace it because I just put in new coolant and new oil...so was initially thinking to get through the Summer as is...but I guess I know what I need to do --> replace it soon.
JD


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

JDCorrado said:


> I didn't replace it because I just put in new coolant and new oil...so was initially thinking to get through the Summer as is...but I guess I know what I need to do --> replace it soon.
> JD


Get another seal, however many quarts of oil a VR6 holds, a ****load of coolant, and put them in the trunk. Worse comes to worse, you change it out halfway through the summer; best-case scenario, you change it this fall when you do your oil.


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

Anyone know of a good source for one of these? The swivel-y bit has gone all stiff and my girlfriend is slowly destroying it every time she looks in the mirror, not to mention its stained and nasty. The light works though! Otherwise, is there a known way to fix this issue? The whole thing looks as if it was designed to be built once and not unbuilt again.
Thanks!


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## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

So i pulled my dash on my 1990 g60 and cause the previous owner left a wiring mess and i cant figure out what these wires are for
































Looks like he connected a wire from the stereo to a wire from the window defroster, but why?
Any help is apreciated 
Thanks

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

jaweber said:


> Anyone know of a good source for one of these? The swivel-y bit has gone all stiff and my girlfriend is slowly destroying it every time she looks in the mirror, not to mention its stained and nasty. The light works though! Otherwise, is there a known way to fix this issue? The whole thing looks as if it was designed to be built once and not unbuilt again.
> Thanks!


I got the l/r sides new from Zeb (VWCP). About $179 for both.


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

I have the visors in blk, grey, and tan. Both sides all colors.


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

VWcorrado1994 said:


> So i pulled my dash on my 1990 g60 and cause the previous owner left a wiring mess and i cant figure out what these wires are for
> Looks like he connected a wire from the stereo to a wire from the window defroster, but why?
> Any help is apreciated
> Thanks
> ...


Looks like someone used the dimmer wires as a remote on for the HU, or a ignition switched src for the HU, regardless I would personally undo them all and redo them all.

I mean, you are already in there, take a day and inspect EVERY WIRE, it's full path, and fix/redo anything not stock. Then use proper sources for the stereo etc. 

In the long run this could save you MANY MANY headaches, plus you will have the piece of mind knowing that everything you CANT SEE is CORRECT.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

Noobercorn, the problem I have with wiring is that I don't have the proper crimp tools and I don't know how to go about obtaining the proper terminal ends. For example, I need to replace my Radiator Fan Motor mating connector and terminals but don't know where to buy them and what tool to use. I have the new connector housing, but not the wire terminal ends. 

Is there one "must have" tool that can do most crimping and a "one stop shop" to get terminals from?


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## the raptor (Feb 19, 2004)

*white front bumper running lights (markers)*

For the life of me, I can not seem to find anyone who sells clear front bumper sided running light markers (or whatever they are called today). :banghead: where can I buy these warlocks?


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

the raptor said:


> For the life of me, I can not seem to find anyone who sells clear front bumper sided running light markers (or whatever they are called today). :banghead: where can I buy these warlocks?


Have to have them made, or buy a used set off of someone. They are long gone.


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

JDCorrado said:


> Noobercorn, the problem I have with wiring is that I don't have the proper crimp tools and I don't know how to go about obtaining the proper terminal ends. For example, I need to replace my Radiator Fan Motor mating connector and terminals but don't know where to buy them and what tool to use. I have the new connector housing, but not the wire terminal ends.
> 
> Is there one "must have" tool that can do most crimping and a "one stop shop" to get terminals from?


All you need is the pins, they can be had at RadioShack. As for a tool: you can use anything from channel locks to needle nose, as they are just squeezed on. I suggest squeezing AND soldering. While not manditory it is extra protection.

If you need any further pigtails (sensor plugs with about 6" of wire hanging from them) I have about a 7-8 POUND bag full, from stripping a few cars, so I likely have the connectors anyone would need.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

*FV-QR*

I am missing the second fan speed. I can jumper the thermoswitch connector at the radiator to get both speed to work but once connected no 2nd speed until I hit 230 degrees and I think that has to do with afterrun switch.

I have replaced the following:

Thermoswitch a the radiator.
FCM
Thermostat
Thermo housing
crackpipe
after run switch on thermo housing
flushed the coolant

The radiator is about a year old.

The thermostat and the thermo switch are both low temps. I have checked wiring to make sure everything is good and continuity and power are there. Can I really have 2 bad thermo switches? I bought them from 2 different companies.


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## Jaydee Funtimes (Jun 24, 2014)

*G60 G-lader oil lines*

So I am very mechanically capable, have been building dubs a long time now but have a ? about the g60 supercharger in my 81 caddy. The seals started leaking cause I noticed oil in the intake, so I tore down g-lader and replaced seals and apex strips with ones from bahn brenner. At the same time I replaced the oil feed line with a cold start fuel line from a rabbit gti. Instead of a banjo bolt at the charger the new line feeds straight in like a brake line, the oil does not have to flow through a bolt anymore. would this cause more oil pressure and cause the seals to keep popping? It will idle after i clean and reassemble charger but if I throttle above say 3,000 rpm for any length of time it pops oil seal and leaks again? Stumped... Should I put the banjo bolt style line back in?


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> I am missing the second fan speed. I can jumper the thermoswitch connector at the radiator to get both speed to work but once connected no 2nd speed until I hit 230 degrees and I think that has to do with afterrun switch.
> 
> I have replaced the following:
> 
> ...


Ok at first I thought you should replace the fan switch and then thought the wiring could be bad. Since those check out I would breakout a multimeter and start tracing the voltage and see where it stops. Start at the source and check throughout the schematic to the end at the fan motor (you've already checked the fan motor)


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

I guess I'll put a meter on the wires coming off the switch and see if it actually allows 12v to pass. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Does the bottom radiator hose get hot?


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

It does. Brand new low temp thermostat.

Fans initially kick on at about 160 for low speed. They seem to stay on through what should be the temps for the 2nd speed, but not 100% positive on that.

The car has been irritating me for the last month or so. Put a freshly built motor in it last summer, car gets parked for the winter here. Spring rolls in, transmission drops 2nd gear. Replace transmission, brakes start to give me an issue, cause was a bad pad. Who would of thought, now this cooling issue. Why can't it just be something simple.


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> It does. Brand new low temp thermostat.
> 
> Fans initially kick on at about 160 for low speed. They seem to stay on through what should be the temps for the 2nd speed, but not 100% positive on that.
> 
> The car has been irritating me for the last month or so. Put a freshly built motor in it last summer, car gets parked for the winter here. Spring rolls in, transmission drops 2nd gear. Replace transmission, brakes start to give me an issue, cause was a bad pad. Who would of thought, now this cooling issue. Why can't it just be something simple.


Because Corrado... :laugh:


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## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

I feel your pain man, my rado has pretty new motor and trans too, and its been throwing me all sorts of new irritating issues lately.

Here's my question: I burnt out the middle speed on the fan motor. Fan control module is fine and I can hear the relay click, but even if I jump 12v to the middle speed contact on the fan motor nothing happens. The low speed and jet roar work fine. Can I fix this or should I just get a whole new fan motor?


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

*FV-QR*

Is the middle 2nd speed and the outer low speed? If that's the case I'm wired backwards cause mine (going by wire color) red is +12, red/white low, red/black 2nd. Is that how your is?

I do not get 12v on the 2nd speed wire when the car is warmed up, I get it on the 1st speed and the low speed works. I went and tried an OEM temp switch and it is doing the same thing.

Also, at what temp should the light flash at me telling me I am overheating? I was at the tick about 230 and no light. I was thinking maybe my temp gauge is reading wrong?


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## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

No, sorry, I just mean the 2nd/middle speed on my fan motor burnt out, as in the speed between the high and low speeds is shot.

Your plug for the temp switch in the rad is wired correctly, the red wire is 12v and will be the only one with 12v coming into it. Jump that wire to the middle contact for low speed and jump the two outer contacts for the fan's 2nd speed.

The temp light will flash if you're out of coolant of if it gets realllll hot. I don't know the exact number, but I'm pretty sure the needle is almost pegged when it happens. My 14 month old thermostat is stuck closed for some reason, so I've been rocking 230 and a bit above pretty often recently, and no light. I've only had the light come on for temp once before, and that was when I forgot to plug the rad fan back in after some maintenance and wasn't watching the gauges. It got very very hot.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

Slider388 said:


> No, sorry, I just mean the 2nd/middle speed on my fan motor burnt out, as in the speed between the high and low speeds is shot.
> 
> Your plug for the temp switch in the rad is wired correctly, the red wire is 12v and will be the only one with 12v coming into it. Jump that wire to the middle contact for low speed and jump the two outer contacts for the fan's 2nd speed.
> 
> The temp light will flash if you're out of coolant of if it gets realllll hot. I don't know the exact number, but I'm pretty sure the needle is almost pegged when it happens. My 14 month old thermostat is stuck closed for some reason, so I've been rocking 230 and a bit above pretty often recently, and no light. I've only had the light come on for temp once before, and that was when I forgot to plug the rad fan back in after some maintenance and wasn't watching the gauges. It got very very hot.


I think I have a short in the system somewhere. I can jump it so the 2nd speed kicks on. I kind of wish it didn't so then it would be the fan motor. I was thinking the only thing I haven't done was jump it while the car is running (running off the alternator). Not sure if that would make a difference but that could be where my short lies. I have only jumped it while in acc. My harnesses are a mess and wish they made a low budget replacement. The fuel injector harness is the only one that is completely intact and haven't had to cut and crimp.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> I think I have a short in the system somewhere. I can jump it so the 2nd speed kicks on. I kind of wish it didn't so then it would be the fan motor. I was thinking the only thing I haven't done was jump it while the car is running (running off the alternator). Not sure if that would make a difference but that could be where my short lies. I have only jumped it while in acc. My harnesses are a mess and wish they made a low budget replacement. The fuel injector harness is the only one that is completely intact and haven't had to cut and crimp.


If you jump the temp. switch connector red wire to the middle and 2nd speed comes on I don't think you have a short.
In all the years I've had my Corrado the fan has never come on 2nd speed for the water temperature. The switch must be set for a silly high temperature. The fan shifts to 2nd speed for the AC (on the rare occasions when the AC works).

I guess I'm asking why do you think there's a problem with the fan? It sounds like it's working correctly.

Oh, most of the aftermarket fan motors don't even have second speed. They have low and high. There's not even a pin for 2nd on the motor's connector.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

If the car temp gets to 245 degrees and the 2nd speed doesn't kick on, I would think there is a problem. It's low temp fan switch, with a low temp thermostat. The fans should kick on sooner than they would with OEM.

Normal driving I am fine, but when I get stuck in traffic, the temps climb past what I am used to. When I lived in FL, the temps never made it to 230. The motor has been out of the car since then and now I am having issues with the 2nd speed.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

theprf said:


> If you jump the temp. switch connector red wire to the middle and 2nd speed comes on I don't think you have a short.


The middle is low speed, the outer is 2nd speed, but I can jump them both and they work.


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

I believe he is right...the only way the secondary fan comes on is with the signal wire being activated by the AC....if you jump the signal wire from AC to the fans and they turn on, then you got your answer.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

I was under the assumption that there were 3 speeds. 2 from the the thermoswitch and 1 from the a/c unit. I removed the a/c from the car, so i that theory there should only be 1 speed till it starts to over heat then the over run fans kick on?


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

1broknrado said:


> I believe he is right...the only way the secondary fan comes on is with the signal wire being activated by the AC....if you jump the signal wire from AC to the fans and they turn on, then you got your answer.


Does the signal wire come off the brown sensor on the thermo housing?


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

https://sites.google.com/site/stoyneff/miscellaneous/the-vr6-cooling-system


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> Does the signal wire come off the brown sensor on the thermo housing?


The 2nd speed from the AC is activated by the AC pressure switch next to the battery (red/black & red/yellow), not from any of the temperature switches. The Brown connector has an AC cutout at high coolant temp 119C (green/white & green/yellow) and 3rd fan speed at 112C (black/yellow & black/white).

Have you got a 10-pin FCM or an 8-pin FCM?

Can you check the radiator fan temp switch? heat it with a heat gun or something like that? I got a low-temp one that was no good out of the box last year.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

10 pin FCM with the pigtail.

I have been through 3 fan switches and they all do the same thing.

There car doesn't have any a/c parts it anymore.


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

What do the brown and yellow wires going to both front seats in my '90 G60 do??? I can't figure it out; I don't think my car has heated seats (it'd be awesome if it did, the heater core is bypassed and its been a chilly summer) but I'm not certain because I have a push-button start where the switch would be. I unplugged them to see if it set off the seat belt light, but nothing changed. Any ideas??


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

jaweber said:


> What do the brown and yellow wires going to both front seats in my '90 G60 do??? I can't figure it out; I don't think my car has heated seats (it'd be awesome if it did, the heater core is bypassed and its been a chilly summer) but I'm not certain because I have a push-button start where the switch would be. I unplugged them to see if it set off the seat belt light, but nothing changed. Any ideas??


It's something with the power seat belts, says the shoulder belt release solenoid interlock.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> 10 pin FCM with the pigtail.
> 
> I have been through 3 fan switches and they all do the same thing.
> 
> There car doesn't have any a/c parts it anymore.


OK, this is going to be a long post. I'm assuming that you sill have the fan harness that's for an AC car, so you have the brown switch & 4 pin connector on the thermostat housing and the black connector that used to go to the AC pressure switch next to the battery. I also don't have the 8-pin to 10-pin pigtail notes or the 10-pin FCM info because my car is still an 8-pin FCM. So I hope this helps.

Looking at the schematics the rad temp switch works fan speed 1 directly. At the fan switch the red wire is supplied from fuse 19, the red/white goes right to the fan motor directly. The A/C relay will also run the fan on low speed when the AC button is pressed, even if you have no freon and the compressor doesn't clutch in. 

The red/black on the rad switch goes to the FCM T8/2 and tells the FCM to run 2nd speed. The red/black on the AC pressure switch also goes to the FCM T8/2. These are the 2 ways the fan will run on 2nd speed. 

The only way to get 3rd speed is from the brown plug on the thermostat housing. Black/yellow to Black/white.

You said you don't have AC installed anymore. So I would check the plug that used to go to the pressure switch, 4-pin near the battery, and see if it's disconnected or shorted or something like that.

You also said that jumping red to red/black at the rad temp switch runs the fan on 2nd speed. Are you sure? Jump red to red/white which is 1st speed then red to red/black which should be 2nd speed. There's a big difference between them. If things are not right either red to red/white OR red to red/black will give you 1st speed and you might think that 2nd speed is working when it's really not. I'd check that too.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

theprf said:


> OK, this is going to be a long post. I'm assuming that you sill have the fan harness that's for an AC car, so you have the brown switch & 4 pin connector on the thermostat housing and the black connector that used to go to the AC pressure switch next to the battery. I also don't have the 8-pin to 10-pin pigtail notes or the 10-pin FCM info because my car is still an 8-pin FCM. So I hope this helps. *I do.*
> 
> Looking at the schematics the rad temp switch works fan speed 1 directly. At the fan switch the red wire is supplied from fuse 19, the red/white goes right to the fan motor directly. The A/C relay will also run the fan on low speed when the AC button is pressed, even if you have no freon and the compressor doesn't clutch in.
> 
> ...


Hope this explains more. I appreciate the patience with this as it is driving me nuts.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> Hope this explains more. I appreciate the patience with this as it is driving me nuts.


Is the plug that goes to the temp switch in good shape? From your description it sounds like the terminal in the plug that the red/black wire goes to isn't making contact to the rad temp switch. It's the only thing you haven't proven out. 
If the fan runs on 1st speed with red/wht jumped to red, and 2nd speed with red jumped to red/black, the wiring and FCM checks out. The unused AC pressure switch connector can't be causing anything wrong.

Oh, once the fan is on 1st speed if the 2nd speed doesn't come in the fan keeps running on 1st speed. You need the key on to get 2nd or 3rd speed. 1st speed works with the key off to provide after-run.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

Just replaced this connector as the previous one was showing some burn marks on it. I have another one on order as well. I wanted to try and put the spade connectors directly on the switch pins.


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## the raptor (Feb 19, 2004)

*Driver rear seat lock release cable snapped.*

Yesterday when fitting my golf bag in the trunk I pulled the driver rear seat lock knob, and the knob snapped. How deep in the rabbit hole am I? What's it gonna take to fix? 
Appreciate it.


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## Danny 171 (Apr 20, 2014)

Hey guys!

I'm looking for a short shifter for my Corrado. I found another thread on them but it's from 2003 and some of the links are dead so I figured I'd ask here. I was looking at this B&M one but I was wondering what you guys prefer. 

http://www.bmracing.com/products/category/?maincat=Manual+Shifters&subcat1=Volkswagen


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## brad_sweeney (Apr 22, 2014)

*getting crappy mpg*

91 G60 getting anywhere from 10-15 HIGHWAY mpg...no apparent leaks and just replaced water temp sensor. Getting a fuel smell at times when I get in my car, prior to even starting it. Burning gas quick, seems to be running quite rich. Why? Help needed.


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## Jacobradd (Jul 13, 2013)

There is a grinding noise I can hear and feel in my steering wheel when I'm at a faster speed when I'm turning to the left but not right. I know one of my axles is bad because when I'm in a parking lot and I turn to the right while going slow I can hear the clacking. Is this my problem?

_Posted via *Topify* on Android_


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## Karoliz (Nov 3, 2006)

Not to start a new thread, I'll ask ithere... I'm having missfiring problem on my vr6 corrado too, especially under load. 

My question is - can it be a poor/weak battery witch cause such problems?.. I'm mean maybe it doesnt give enough voltage for the spark?.. I've already changed plug wires, tested other coilpack, spark plugs were changed ~1000 miles ago, alternator was checked also... 

Corrado was not driven for ~3-4 years, so I suspect week battery - after charging it it does start the car, though battery drains out pretty fast. Or should I check something else too?..

Thanks a lot guys, want to sort this out asap and enjoy my vr6 again...


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

Jacobradd said:


> There is a grinding noise I can hear and feel in my steering wheel when I'm at a faster speed when I'm turning to the left but not right. I know one of my axles is bad because when I'm in a parking lot and I turn to the right while going slow I can hear the clacking. Is this my problem?
> 
> _Posted via *Topify* on Android_


Could be wheel bearings.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

Karoliz said:


> Not to start a new thread, I'll ask ithere... I'm having missfiring problem on my vr6 corrado too, especially under load.
> 
> My question is - can it be a poor/weak battery witch cause such problems?.. I'm mean maybe it doesnt give enough voltage for the spark?.. I've already changed plug wires, tested other coilpack, spark plugs were changed ~1000 miles ago, alternator was checked also...
> 
> ...


You are not running on the battery when the car is running, you are running on the alternator. When the car is running are you getting 13-14v when you measure the voltage on the battery?

Have you scanned it to see which cylinders are misfiring?


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## Karoliz (Nov 3, 2006)

Havent scaned it yet, will try to do it asap (dont have my own vag-com)...


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

I decided to reconnect my compressor connector today to get cold air. And yes, the A/C system did blow cold air but the Coolant and Oil temps jumped up about 20-30 deg. F.

Comparison:
Rad Fan on Medium (HVAC Mode set at A/C or Def mode) but *A/C Compressor Disconnected*
Water: 195; Oil: 220

Rad Fan on Medium (HVAC Mode set at A/C or Def mode) and *A/C Compressor Connected*
Water: 225-230; Oil: 240-245

Is this typical? I had disconnected the battery when reconnecting the compressor which reset the ECU, so I'm not sure if that caused the engine to run differently. The vehicle was stalling when down shifting at stops for a while then finally started to stabilize like normal...but the coolant temps. just kept rising and eventually the High rad fans kicked in.

I'll probably run with the A/C compressor wire disconnected to see if the temps. go back to normal. Couldn't try that as the engine was still hot.

EDIT 7/2/2014: After the ECU relearned, the car temps appear to be back to normal with the A/C still connected. Not sure why they had jumped up so high but all is well now.


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

I live in Arizona. It gets to 117 in the summer. With my ac on full and haulin down the freeway I would see 200+ water and 250 oil. With an external oil cooler if see 230 oil. So that's fine. These cars run hot as is. But vrs love heat


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## oswaldo1982 (Dec 17, 2009)

*OBD2 engine into a corrado - not full swap*

Can you swap an OBD2 vr6 into a corrado without any supporting mods? like ECU, etc?

And if you can? do i have to get rid of something? or can i still have all of the emissions stuff?


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## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

oswaldo1982 said:


> Can you swap an OBD2 vr6 into a corrado without any supporting mods? like ECU, etc?
> 
> And if you can? do i have to get rid of something? or can i still have all of the emissions stuff?


No...you cannot run an obd2 engine with an obd1 ecu. Throttle body is different as it includes a servo motor and some other sensors to replace the ISV, intake is different to fit the different throttle body, so is the MAF, a few of the sensors, and the obd2 wiring harness that ties it all together is also different.
Depending on how completet the obd2 engine you have is, you might be able to get away with just wiring the obd2 harness into the rado, adding an ecu, and maybe a few other little bits. Otherwise, you'll have to swap the intake, throttle body, maf, everything that's different with obd2 with the obd1 equivalents, then you can plug it right in to your original corrado harness and ecu.
*This* thread covers everything that is required for an obd2 swap.


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## the raptor (Feb 19, 2004)

*Might have been overlooked*



the raptor said:


> Yesterday when fitting my golf bag in the trunk I pulled the driver rear seat lock knob, and the knob snapped. How deep in the rabbit hole am I? What's it gonna take to fix?
> Appreciate it.


Bringing this back.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

the raptor said:


> Yesterday when fitting my golf bag in the trunk I pulled the driver rear seat lock knob, and the knob snapped. How deep in the rabbit hole am I? What's it gonna take to fix?
> Appreciate it.


What broke, just the plastic knob? You'll need to contact Zeb to get a replacement. I'm sure one can be had used, albeit irradiated by the sun. 








191 885 683 A - pull rod 
Dropped 01/04/2012 - available VW CP

I play a fair amount of golf myself and know how useful lowering a back seat can be. To that end, it's a simple lever system and easily circumvented. Looping a zip tie around it might even work. It looks like a coat hanger would be viable, as well. 
















If the cable broke then you're hosed. That's a deep dark hole.


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## the raptor (Feb 19, 2004)

Yes, the plastic knob busted, and the other half is down there in that deep dark hole.... :thumbdown: I'll get with zeb, see if he can help..

The coat hanger: seems like a temporary fix for the time being, thanks.


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

Mine just broke as well. Gonna see what I can fab up to make a cheap alternative until I go to the yard to grab one from a mk3


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## the raptor (Feb 19, 2004)

*Wheels*

Wheel shopping. This picture was stolen form the "black corrado" post. Where in the world can I find these wheels? They are like speedlines with a bend in the spoke. Let me know...


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

the raptor said:


> Yesterday when fitting my golf bag in the trunk I pulled the driver rear seat lock knob, and the knob snapped. How deep in the rabbit hole am I? What's it gonna take to fix?
> Appreciate it.


Stumbled into a new one. Sent you the link


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## the raptor (Feb 19, 2004)

*Many thanks Pug*



petethepug said:


> Stumbled into a new one. Sent you the link


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

This probably seems silly but I bought a new oil drain pan, I moved and retired my 14yr old pan. This thing is in my opinion the best for all of the traits I like. It's sold by Harley Davidson. I think people with low cars or hate not getting the pan centered will like it.


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## the raptor (Feb 19, 2004)

*Oil pan*


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

Corrado Fusebox question. Almost all of the pictures I find when I search for plugs 30 and 30b on the fusebox show them jumpered together...just 2 plugs. But I have this (not my picture) 










My car just cranks right now, no fuel pump is my thought but with this thing in there is it still supposed to be jumpered or does something else go there?


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

ive never seen that before. My car just has that plug directly into the fuseblock... that yellow clip there is for your injectors so you should be getting power to them.

do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key on to acc? i think relay spot 12 is the fuel pump relay...make sure its pushed in all the way


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

The jumper type depends on the year and type of harness. Earlier cars have the wire jumper, later is the red plug.


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

So what I heard from someone else is that jumps the connection. So the and the plug for the fuel pump itself goes into Y2. Is that yellow clip used on a dizzy VR? The CE2 diagram shows that is for 90+ 8v or diesel stuff


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Fuel pump power comes from m/02. Z1 is fuel pump relay switched power for fuel injectors on motronic cars.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Hello guys, I have this cel engine code that is 2113 and I'm trying to figure out how to get rid of it.

I've bought a brand new distributor about a year ago or so( currently on the car) and I have a decent looking bosh dizzy that I've swapped. Still, I have this code. I notice a noticeable hesitation at low rpm's.

Wiring looks ok. Help!


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

You need to test the circuit. I've seen plenty of wires that looked good but, really weren't.

It has three wires:
1. Power - BK/Y
2. Ground - BR/BK
3. Signal / Trigger - W/R
Power and ground are simple to test so, I won't go into that. Test the signal wire with the car running. Set your MM to DC or Frequency Hz (better). Probe the backside of the connector. This has to be done while it's connected. I don't recommend piercing the insulation as this will allow corrosion to start on the copper. 

Red probe - W/R wire
Black probe - ground

If you're using DC the signal reading should be the same as the output voltage reaching the sensor, B+. It's really hard, if I'm honest, to see any irregularities doing it this way. A MM is great for testing a no-start condition but, one that's running really requires an oscilloscope. Anyway, the voltage reading should turn on and off as the "windows" open and close, with precision. 

You might get lucky and see a voltage disparity when the engine stumbles as you described. An oscilloscope would show that as a broken waveform at a much lower threshold - impossible to miss. 

Regardless, the result would be the same, your dizzy is failing. Since it's relatively new, I would do a continuity and Ohm test of the three wires. Check the resistance of the ground wire location first. Grounds usually fail first because of their unsealed connections.


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

Wiring can look ok and be bad. I had a problem with bucking and no power. Turns out the harness was bad. Shake things around and go drive it


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## genoentchev123 (Apr 15, 2007)

*Corrado Badge*

So I have a '93 SLC, and the Corrado badge on the back came off when I was using a powerwasher on it (I know, too much pressure) I am wondering: what is the original piece that was used to hold them in?


Some info on the emblem and:
I see that the 4 protruding clips from the emblem are different sizes: I looks like the one behind the C & the first R are about the same size (.16" X .10" X .315" tall), the piece behind the A is the fattest (.20" x .105" x .315" tall) and the O is the smallest (.15" x .10" x .315" tall, this one is tapered, wider at the bottom, .1" sqaure at the top) (length x width x height), measured with a measuring caliper. Also, the holes in the car are about .25" round, not square and rectangle like the pieces that go into them.

I want to avoid using an adhesive, I have strip calk already. I would rather use the OEM's method of securing the emblem or something similar. I was thinking to use O-Rings but don't know the sizes to use. Any ideas?

Also, I need to fix my exhaust and am going to buy a piece of tubing fix it myself. I was told I have the stock exhaust, I know it is supposed to be 2-1/4" but I don't know if that is the inside diameter or the outside diameter, I thought it went by Inside Diameter, but Jegs is selling a piece by the OD instead and I don't want to get a piece that is too small.

Thanks! :beer:


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Aaah!


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

genoentchev123 said:


> So I have a '93 SLC, and the Corrado badge on the back came off when I was using a powerwasher on it (I know, too much pressure) I am wondering: what is the original piece that was used to hold them in?
> 
> 
> Some info on the emblem and:
> ...


The emblem has, or should have, four "pins" on it. Those pins go into four grommets (191 853 615A) that in-turn go into the rear body panel. I have no idea if those are still available or not. They're either still in the car or on the emblem, if you still have all 4 pins. 








I have one held on with 3M double sided tape. I covered the entire rear side of the emblem and used a razor blade to cut around the script. It's been doing fine since '98. 

I'll let an exhaust expert help you with your other question. I haven't had a stock exhaust in decades.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

genoentchev123 said:


> Also, I need to fix my exhaust and am going to buy a piece of tubing fix it myself. I was told I have the stock exhaust, I know it is supposed to be 2-1/4" but I don't know if that is the inside diameter or the outside diameter, I thought it went by Inside Diameter, but Jegs is selling a piece by the OD instead and I don't want to get a piece that is too small.
> 
> Thanks! :beer:


Stock exhaust is 54mm OD - that's 2-1/8". You can slip a 2-1/4" pipe over it which ends up really loose.

The blue emblem clips 191 853 615A are still available for like $1.50 each.


----------



## genoentchev123 (Apr 15, 2007)

theprf said:


> Stock exhaust is 54mm OD - that's 2-1/8". You can slip a 2-1/4" pipe over it which ends up really loose.
> 
> The blue emblem clips 191 853 615A are still available for like $1.50 each.


Thanks a lot! that info is extremely helpful



mateok said:


> The emblem has, or should have, four "pins" on it. Those pins go into four grommets (191 853 615A) that in-turn go into the rear body panel. I have no idea if those are still available or not. They're either still in the car or on the emblem, if you still have all 4 pins.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Great, thanks a lot, thats exactly what I need! where did you get that picture though??? I wish I could get all the drawings/diagrams for the car somehow.


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

theprf said:


> Stock exhaust is 54mm OD - that's 2-1/8". You can slip a 2-1/4" pipe over it which ends up really loose.
> 
> The blue emblem clips 191 853 615A are still available for like $1.50 each.



You can also make your own super solid version of the aforementioned blue clips:

Heat up a small nut with an Inside Diameter a hair smaller than the thickness of the posts on the CORRADO badge, then thread them on (the heat will melt threads onto the little posts)

Then, using small rubber washers on the inside AND outside of the body, thread the nuts onto the installed badge and it will hold solid as a rock, which still being able to be removed if needed.

The 3M VHB double sided tape is good as mentioned above, yet my only concern would be removing it and taking paint with the tape when pulling it off.

I have done both methods on different cars, both with good results. 

Danny 171 asked about a short shifter:
I suggest cutting the stock shift lever down 2-2.5" and installing an after market knob. The results are a nice short travel of the right hand while driving, and also while not messing with ANY of the geometry of these cable shifted cars as that can be an almost impossible issue to fix.

Here is one option:

https://store-lyr7tp5r.mybigcommerce.com/content/PDF/Gruvenparts_Shift_Tutorial.pdf

Also, the one I always used was installed from the top (read: inside the cabin of the car) and needed a dremmel to cut a notch at about 1:30-2 o clock when looking at the hole that the shift lever and corresponding shift box come up through in the floor.

There was a great DIY with pix of said notch from either Diesel Geek or TT, I forget, but I'm sure someone has it they can link you to.


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## genoentchev123 (Apr 15, 2007)

are these grommets (191 853 615A) the same pieces that hold in the VW badge as well?? If not, can you provide part number? Thanks!


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## the raptor (Feb 19, 2004)

*Repost*



the raptor said:


> Wheel shopping. This picture was stolen form the "black corrado" post. Where in the world can I find these wheels? They are like speedlines with a bend in the spoke. Let me know...


Repost

Appreciate any info on these...:beer:


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

genoentchev123 said:


> are these grommets (191 853 615A) the same pieces that hold in the VW badge as well?? If not, can you provide part number? Thanks!


Same thing. It's a VW & Porsche part #. Take a quick search in google (pictures) under the part # to find it.


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## stiefon (Jul 26, 2011)

*Corrado Help*

I currently own a VW Corrado that has a VR6 motor swap done. Over the years it has gone through the hands of a mechanic that shall remain nameless, but he butchered my once original Corrado G60. At the time, he said he could do the VR6 swap no problem, then years later it had gone through two motors. He was not able to finish the swap and disappeared along with about $5,000. So I finally saved up enough and found a shop that was able to get a working VR6 swap done. Now I am left with a Frankenstein Corrado, but I still love it. So now I am trying to get it back to proper working order, the motor needs some tuning still, it has some white smoke coming out of the exhaust so hopefully that is not the head gasket. The wiring was also never completed and I think he just cut and spliced a bunch of it, so the heated seats, side mirrors, cruise control and wing do not work as they should. The driver side window does not roll up all the way, so a window actuator is needed is my guess, and the sunroof only tilts up now instead of sliding back. I am now also missing some cosmetic things that were stolen by the first "mechanic" that did the swap. I am looking for dash vents, speaker covers for the corners of the dash by the windshield and on the door panels, the fan controls which seem to not be connected to anything cause nothing happens when I turn the fan control on, the antenna, and steering wheel column cover top and bottom. It was also parked against some sort of high ground and left out in the heat so the front lip is now warped, so I am looking to find another 90mm euro lip. 

I'm not super mechanically inclined but there is a local VW shop and the owner once had a Corrado himself and seems very upfront the one time I brought it in to fix a leaky fuel line. 

I cannot give up on this car, it is my first car that I have ever bought and owned myself, and have way to much emotional attachment to it to just let it go without a fight. If there is anyone with info on where to find these parts, or just has some knowledge on which road to take on some of these issues it would be a tremendous help in getting this once original Corrado back to somewhat original working order. I am only the second owner so it definitely saddens me to know I let someone butcher such an iconic car, but I won't give up and hopefully you all can help in this quest to bring it back to life again.

Thanks for any help,

Steven


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

OK got the car running...onto my next problem. My cluster will light up, odometer comes on, clock comes on. But none of the gauges move. No fuel, no speed or tach, no temp. Cubby gages in the console work. Have tested with a known good cluster and same results. Ideas?


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Missing one or more of the black accessory connectors that go to the jumper box above the fuseblocl.


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

I have all of the jumper boxes, I have one box of all blue single wire connectors, which I heard were VSS related connected up.

I was thinking it was the ground on the back of the head, but 1. I don't have a ground there, I think it was relocated by a PO 2. I didn't touch that area in the process of any of the work I've done thus far. and the cluster was working before...


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

There are two separate circuits in the black jumper plug. Make sure both have 12v. If not unplug them all and see what two have 12v with key on. Those need to go to each " half" of the plug.


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

To be clear we are talking about the same thing:










the boxes in red right? (Not my pic, just illustrated the best)


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

*Is VW/Audi G 060 726 A2 OK for my '92 Corrado SLC build 6/1992.*

I'm posting this as one last check before I change my manual trans fluid. Was going to go with the MT-90 but decided to just buy OEM. So I went to the Dealer and picked up OEM Manual trans oil VW/Audi G 060 726 A2 for my '92 Corrado SLC build 6/1992.

I'm seeing all kinds of Manual Trans Fluid recommendations on VORTEX which is why I wanted to confirm here in this thread...Looks like it meets GL-4 specs so I'm thinking it is good.

Michigan Weather: Summer -  Winter -


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

Anyone know the check engine light OUTPUT wire coming from the ecu? The harness is obd2 gti. I can't find the wire in any of the g plugs (or whatever the 2 plugs are) I need to do emissions on my car and I need to plug in the cel so I can pass. 


Paul, I know you know


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Inkarnata said:


> To be clear we are talking about the same thing:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The little boxes clipped onto the fusebox (TV's 1, 2, 3, etc.) are a continuous circuit. Any jumper wire clipped into them (up to four) will be powered by the same circuit. 

Take one off the fusebox and look in it. You'll see a copper strip running the entire length of the box. That's also illustrated in the wiring diagram by a continuous black line at the bottom. 


















Just take out the cluster and test the harness side for power and ground. The Bentley has an entire section (Instruments) dedicated to it. That will narrow the problem down to either the wiring or the cluster itself.


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

I know its not the cluster. I've tested with a known good one. I'll test those boxes and rearrange the plugs I have in them as well.

And I know the cluster is getting power, clock odometer are working


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Clock and od get separate 12v feed. Check jumper blocks and look for a random black not plugged in.


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

the raptor said:


> Repost
> 
> Appreciate any info on these...:beer:


Stahl S2


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

So one of the single black plugs could do it. Good info BC I wouldn't be shocked if there is one of thosenhanging out


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

So here is what mine currently looks like.










Both the blocks with the blue plugs, and the black are getting 12v power, still no change in the cluster. The prongs on my voltmeter are too big to actually test the harness...


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

Odd as well, if I take that grey plug that you see all the way on the end on the right, and plug it in next to the black connectors, the illumination in the cluster turns on, without the exterior lights on. :banghead:


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Inkarnata said:


> Odd as well, if I take that grey plug that you see all the way on the end on the right, and plug it in next to the black connectors, the illumination in the cluster turns on, without the exterior lights on. :banghead:


That doesn't make a whole lot of sense. The cluster lighting (three bulbs up top) get their power from 58b - headlight switch dimmer. There shouldn't be a jumper wire responsible for delivering that power. I say shouldn't but, Corrados are straight up Frankenstein's when it comes to wiring. Add a little PO magic and who knows?

I'm guessing the gray wire you're talking about is 58e. That's where 58b gets it's juice. 58e is fused power (S3 - 10A). It's not a direct shot to power, though, it still relies on the headlight switch for all of that. Said power comes from circuit 58 (still in the switch) which in turn gets it from circuit X (load reduction). 

Still haven't reached the source, though. It still needs you to turn the ignition switch so that contacts X & 30 kiss. Once that's done, the control side of the load reduction relay (85 & 86) needs to energize. Once a magnetic field is generated the relay arm will snap closed (click!) and B+ from circuit 30 is accessed. 

So, the circuit is U1 & U2 connectors but, the power needed to make it all work comes from R connector. It sounds complicated but, it's actually not. The problem with that setup is obviously the enormous amount of voltage running through the ignition and headlight switches.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Inkarnata said:


> Odd as well, if I take that grey plug that you see all the way on the end on the right, and plug it in next to the black connectors, the illumination in the cluster turns on, without the exterior lights on. :banghead:


I didn't go through your whole issue, but the above is not odd at all. By doing this you backfed the dimmer circuit with 12v. The gray plugs are the Dimmer circuit junction box.

Have you checked for constant 12v at the cluster plug itself? T28/11 (Position #11), and 12v with Key on at T28/13. Also check grounds /3 and /5. -> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3078876-The-unofficial-Cluster-Swap-thread. If not, then work backwards systematically. Sorry, if I am being redundant from what was already posted, but issues like this should be in their own thread IMO.

Also, just as a point of reference (from what I recall..) the only difference between the TV3 and TV4 junction boxes (X Contact Powered 12v with Key) are that one of them keeps power until you remove the key. This allows accessories to keep power after turning off the car until the key is removed (so you can roll up windows, sunroof, etc)


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

JDCorrado said:


> I'm posting this as one last check before I change my manual trans fluid. Was going to go with the MT-90 but decided to just buy OEM. So I went to the Dealer and picked up OEM Manual trans oil VW/Audi G 060 726 A2 for my '92 Corrado SLC build 6/1992.
> 
> I'm seeing all kinds of Manual Trans Fluid recommendations on VORTEX which is why I wanted to confirm here in this thread...Looks like it meets GL-4 specs so I'm thinking it is good.
> 
> Michigan Weather: Summer -  Winter -


I found this, looks like it is OK...not sure why they have 060, 070...etc..
*********************************************
Fixmy59bug	January 26th, 2010 17:43
According to ETKA:

G-052-726-A2 supercedes to G-060-726-A2. This is a Synthetic 75w90 Mineral oil base fluid for the 02J and 02A transmissions.

G-055-726-A2 supercedes to G-070-726-A2.

Don't ask me what belongs where, because this stuff is confusing.  


*********************************************


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Anything 75w90 will "work." I didnt like Redline particularly. I exclusively run Torco now.


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## mattrip (Sep 5, 2005)

Just got my 92' G60 back together after engine rebuild, cleaning up my auto to manual swap, ABS delete, and plus suspension swap from VR Corrado donor.

To my shagrin _almost_ everything works! Car fired right up and rides like a champ!

Hoping the experts can help with the _almost_... My speedometer does not work. When I took this car off the road 10 years ago it did not work either. Car has the digital cluster with the electronic sending unit on top of the tranny. When I pulled the motor the wires going to the sending unit were cut so I repaired and hoped that was it. No luck.

1. Can any of you wiring gurus confirm that on an automatic transmission C the speedometer wiring (signal) does not pass through the auto computer?

2. Would my best bet be to replace the sending unit on the transmission, or would you all recommend troubleshooting the wiring?

My only other issue it vibration at idle and acceleration, I think it is the motor mounts as I used the old rear and trans mount on the VR K frame (unknown mileage) and running a solid front G60 mount with the G60 front cross member. Dash vibrates at idle and during acceleration the rear view mirror shakes like hell.

TIA


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

^ Auto Wiring for Cluster VSS is same.

Check to see if you have 12v on the outer pins of VSS with Key on. If yes, trace signal wire (Center back to cluster) G1/11 to -> U1/11 -> pin 27 (T27/28) on Cluster Plug. If good, then replace VSS if necessary. You can use either Auto or Manual VSS from 91+ G60, VR etc. The only difference (other than price for some reason) is side oriented plug vs, top.

I assume your tach is working and just speedo is not?


Solid Front mount will cause slight dash vib at idle and decel. Lesser of 2 evils IMO...


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

Who decided it was Cluster Error Week?


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## mattrip (Sep 5, 2005)

sdezego said:


> I assume your tach is working and just speedo is not?


Yes. Everything on the instrument cluster work, other than the speedometer. To my surprise after having this car torn apart over the past 10 years...

Thanks for the reply and detail for troubleshooting! Going to check it out tomorrow. I followed a few of your threads during my rebuild:thumbup:

My vibration is a bit worse than I remember it being prior to my restore. Tempted to change out the rear engine mount and trans mount on the VR K frame and see if it clears up some. The donor car for the +suspension swap had the front engine carrier removed and the toasted VR engine was hanging from the rear mounts for a few months. Thinking this may have over stressed them.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

JDCorrado said:


> I found this, looks like it is OK...not sure why they have 060, 070...etc..
> *********************************************
> Fixmy59bug	January 26th, 2010 17:43
> According to ETKA:
> ...


OK, I got the manual trans. oil replaced. I drained the fluid at zero incline and only about 1.6L came out. That is about how much was filled back in as well when it started dripping from the fill plug. Drove it around today and rechecked the level. When I took the plug out, it started to drizzle a bit so I squirted a bit more in there and plugged it up.

Both plugs were snugged tight as I don't know exactly what torque to use. I don't believe Bentley specifies the torque,the 30 Nm (22ftlb) people sometimes say refers to the Reverse Idler Shaft self-locking bolt IMO... in that section anyway. I just stopped torquing it when it started to feel like it wasn't getting any tighter which was around 30 Nm anyway. No leaks . Trans gears and shifting feel a bit smoother, the old fluid was gray and stunk the whole garage up. :thumbup:


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

Dimmu said:


> Anyone know the check engine light OUTPUT wire coming from the ecu? The harness is obd2 gti. I can't find the wire in any of the g plugs (or whatever the 2 plugs are) I need to do emissions on my car and I need to plug in the cel so I can pass.
> 
> 
> Paul, I know you know


.


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

"Now for the OBD port there will be two brown wires which is the ground which i tapped into the brown wire that goes in slot Z2 and there will be a yellow and gray wire the yellow is not need for obd2 is needed for obd1 gray is the k line . Now what you do is connect the gray wire with the gray wire above just cut the clip off and solder them together note obd1 and obd2 k lines look different as you can see above. Now the red wire is for power i tapped into the 30-30b jumper wires for that. And for obd1 cars connect the yellow with yellow."


Googled it and this is what I came up with. SHould be a power/ground as normal, then connect the grey wire on the obd2 port for scanning. 

link to original thread: http://mk2vr6.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=7831


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

CEL is t68/5 dont have a bentley handy to track from there


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

Haven't had time to dig in...but I acquire 4 cluster harnesses to test...nothing so far with 2 of em


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

Got the cluster working, with original harness. Thanks to all who answered. Especially Paul who's suggestions pointed me to the black plugs in the TV connectors. I decided to disconnect my fusebox for a third time with a more trained eye looking for things thanks to everyones suggestions. I found one black plug/black wire, which I did not trace back but was not plugged into the TV connector. So after putting everything back together with that plugged in, bingo.:thumbup:


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Always something! Glad you finally found it.


----------



## ml1986 (Apr 27, 2012)

Where can I buy a CO-Pot holder *not* in aluminium?

Edit: Found it http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/628/G60_CO_Pot_Sensor_Bung


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## twoteks (Dec 1, 2005)

*Plus suspension question*

When upgrading a G60 to 5 lug with plus suspension does the rear beam need to be replaced as well? I assume the VR beam is wider.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

twoteks said:


> When upgrading a G60 to 5 lug with plus suspension does the rear beam need to be replaced as well? I assume the VR beam is wider.


The rear beams are the same, the rotors have different offsets


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## mattrip (Sep 5, 2005)

G60ING said:


> The rear beams are the same, the rotors have different offsets


This is what I found on my swap:

Dropped the rear beam out of the 92' G60 car and laid it back to back with the rear beam removed from the 92' VR Corrado. The VR beam is definitely wider. Using tape line measuring with the axle shafts removed from mounting face to mounting face the G60 beam is 52-11/16" the VR rear beam is 53-3/4""










VR beam at bottom of pic. You can see the difference.


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

So my spoilers idiocy: after passing 15mph and coming back down the spoiler goes up. When you start going again and hit 45mph the spoiler comes down. Could the plugs on the spoiler motor being reversed (polarity reversed) be what would cause this?

Note that the manual switch works fine...


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

I checked my spare spoiler assy and it was definitely the plugs. I installed my spare since it was smoother operating anyway and its working great now. Got the car inspected and registered this morning.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

mattrip said:


> This is what I found on my swap:
> 
> Dropped the rear beam out of the 92' G60 car and laid it back to back with the rear beam removed from the 92' VR Corrado. The VR beam is definitely wider. Using tape line measuring with the axle shafts removed from mounting face to mounting face the G60 beam is 52-11/16" the VR rear beam is 53-3/4""
> 
> ...


Hopefully that puts the myth to rest. :thumbup:


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## mattrip (Sep 5, 2005)

Inkarnata said:


> I checked my spare spoiler assy and it was definitely the plugs. I installed my spare since it was smoother operating anyway and its working great now. Got the car inspected and registered this morning.


Congrats on the registration and state inspection :thumbup:


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## mattrip (Sep 5, 2005)

xtremevdub said:


> Hopefully that puts the myth to rest. :thumbup:


I should add that you can feel the difference to


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

A '99 MK3 VR6 engine could swap well in the Corrado right? I don't need an engine, just may pick one up to tinker around with and have as a back-up.
To use in a '92 VR6 Corrado, the main difference would be the '99 has a coil correct? Also, the '92 is OBD1 but the '99 is OBD2.
Anything else?


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

JDCorrado said:


> A '99 MK3 VR6 engine could swap well in the Corrado right? I don't need an engine, just may pick one up to tinker around with and have as a back-up.
> To use in a '92 VR6 Corrado, the main difference would be the '99 has a coil correct? Also, the '92 is OBD1 but the '99 is OBD2.
> Anything else?


the 99 is a mk4... this one..








It will fit too, but is a tad different as you can see.. 

A 98 mk3 engine will fit no problem and again its just a little different in a few ways, not just the lack of dizzy. but a straight swap. 
Once you go obd2, you never go back.


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## El_Profe (Jun 8, 2014)

I am looking to use my obd2 schrick intake manifold on my 92 corrado vr6. Does anyone know where I can find a throttle body adapter plate, similar to the one BFI sells, which will work in my situation? The last result will be to find someone who can fabricate one as I do not want to sell the manifold and look for an obd1 schrick. Thanks :thumbup:


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

I ran an OBD2 Schrick on my 95 with an OBD2 throttle body. The VGI still had the port for the idle valve and I wired in the main TPS from the OBD2 TB leaving the second tps, throttle switch and internal idle valve motor unwired. Nice part is the OBD2 TB is a little bigger than the OBD1.


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## El_Profe (Jun 8, 2014)

need_a_VR6 said:


> I ran an OBD2 Schrick on my 95 with an OBD2 throttle body. The VGI still had the port for the idle valve and I wired in the main TPS from the OBD2 TB leaving the second tps, throttle switch and internal idle valve motor unwired. Nice part is the OBD2 TB is a little bigger than the OBD1.


Thanks for the help. I will look into this :thumbup:


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## vdubCorrado (Nov 8, 2001)

JDCorrado said:


> A '99 MK3 VR6 engine could swap well in the Corrado right? I don't need an engine, just may pick one up to tinker around with and have as a back-up.
> To use in a '92 VR6 Corrado, the main difference would be the '99 has a coil correct? Also, the '92 is OBD1 but the '99 is OBD2.
> Anything else?


you'll just need to convert the OBD2 motor to OBD1 distributed... there's a write up of it in reverse, pretty straight forward though. chain cover and cam gear need to be swapped to the OBD2 motor and it will drop right in...


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

mattrip said:


> This is what I found on my swap:
> 
> Dropped the rear beam out of the 92' G60 car and laid it back to back with the rear beam removed from the 92' VR Corrado. The VR beam is definitely wider. Using tape line measuring with the axle shafts removed from mounting face to mounting face the G60 beam is 52-11/16" the VR rear beam is 53-3/4""
> 
> ...



I stand corrected...I guess I only know tdi corrados :banghead:


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

G60ING said:


> I stand corrected...I guess I only know tdi corrados :banghead:


I didn't know that either. I would've thought they were the same, as well.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

vdubCorrado said:


> you'll just need to convert the OBD2 motor to OBD1 distributed... there's a write up of it in reverse, pretty straight forward though. chain cover and cam gear need to be swapped to the OBD2 motor and it will drop right in...


I think the gears can even stay. I ran singles from a 98 on my 95. The rear tensioner bolt from the late motor wont thread in to all covers, it needs to be tapped first. Also need to block off the sai hole. Super simple though.


----------



## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

Finally got around to installing the heater core that's been in my trunk for a year... All went as well as can be expected when removing the dash from a twenty-four year old car; but now my temp slider control thing is stuck on hot and won't really move, and the air temp definitely doesn't feel like Hot. I'm guessing I messed up somewhere along the line while replacing the foam in the heater box with Aluminum ducting tape. My question to everyone here is: Has anyone ever done the same thing before, and do you remember what the hell went wrong so I can give this a shot without taking the entire dash out again...?? Any help would be great, info on how the system works or anything. I used Dennis' DIY write up on CCC for my reference while doing this, but his car has the 93+ HVAC so I didn't have much to follow there. Thanks in advance for w/e you all can come up with!!

-Jared


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

I would verify the cables are hooked up and that there is vacuum to the controls/doors before yanking the dash


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

^^^What he said...
The temperature door is actuated by a simple push/pull cable. To see the end of the cable that is under the HVAC linked to the door, you need to pull the instrument panel under cover off on the Passenger side. There you should be able to see the push/pull cable mechanism attached to the temp. mix door under the HVAC's plastic housing. See if you can operate the door manually back and forth by the lever under the HVAC...also check that the cable is attached to the HVAC there properly. If that is OK, then you will need to check the HVAC control mechanism.

Unscrew and pull the control out just enough (if you can) to see that the temperature cable is clipped down properly to it. I found that I had to add a bit of tape to keep it from sliding back and forth in the clip like this:










If it is not clipped down properly, the temp. control lever will move and only the cable itself will go back and forth, the door will not be moved. Also, be sure the actual small diameter internal cable is hooked to the control's lever hole properly. Enjoy


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

JDCorrado said:


> ^^^What he said...
> The temperature door is actuated by a simple push/pull cable. To see the end of the cable that is under the HVAC linked to the door, you need to pull the instrument panel under cover off on the Passenger side. There you should be able to see the push/pull cable mechanism attached to the temp. mix door under the HVAC's plastic housing. See if you can operate the door manually back and forth by the lever under the HVAC...also check that the cable is attached to the HVAC there properly. If that is OK, then you will need to check the HVAC control mechanism.
> 
> Unscrew and pull the control out just enough (if you can) to see that the temperature cable is clipped down properly to it. I found that I had to add a bit of tape to keep it from sliding back and forth in the clip like this:
> ...


I remember that clip well because I couldn't remember which way it fed into the controls, I like what you did with the tape, I'll give that a try in the morning.

P.S. Your colour coded tape looks swell


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## BugAudi (Jul 22, 2014)

*Ignition Switch*

I was wondering if anyone knew anything about the lock cylinder on the ignition switch not turning far enough? I recently bought my 1994 Corrado VR6 and I have 2 good ignition switches that work fine, except for the fact that I need a screwdriver to use them. When I put the switch into place and turn the key it turns only enough to turn on the battery, but the key gets stuck just where its about to start the engine... any clues? 

Note: I have the adjustable steering wheel, which seems to be important for these situations.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

BugAudi said:


> I was wondering if anyone knew anything about the lock cylinder on the ignition switch not turning far enough? I recently bought my 1994 Corrado VR6 and I have 2 good ignition switches that work fine, except for the fact that I need a screwdriver to use them. When I put the switch into place and turn the key it turns only enough to turn on the battery, but the key gets stuck just where its about to start the engine... any clues?
> 
> Note: I have the adjustable steering wheel, which seems to be important for these situations.


I've had this problem before I did a hybrid repair but when searching for it I found this old school repair: http://www.jgajewski.org/www.corrado-club.com/faq/detail_faq4545.html?FAQID=71

My hybrid repair was a little crazy but I've since learned how to rekey the ignition lock cylinder: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6111262-Lost-Keys-replacement-amp-Steering-wheel-lock-s


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## BugAudi (Jul 22, 2014)

Thanks much, I will look into it.


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

jaweber said:


> Finally got around to installing the heater core that's been in my trunk for a year... All went as well as can be expected when removing the dash from a twenty-four year old car; but now my temp slider control thing is stuck on hot and won't really move, and the air temp definitely doesn't feel like Hot. I'm guessing I messed up somewhere along the line while replacing the foam in the heater box with Aluminum ducting tape. My question to everyone here is: Has anyone ever done the same thing before, and do you remember what the hell went wrong so I can give this a shot without taking the entire dash out again...?? Any help would be great, info on how the system works or anything. I used Dennis' DIY write up on CCC for my reference while doing this, but his car has the 93+ HVAC so I didn't have much to follow there. Thanks in advance for w/e you all can come up with!!
> 
> -Jared


I got this figured out today, I had just fed the cable through and attached it while the slider was in the opposite position of the blend door. All is well there, thanks JD! My only concerns now (and they're minor (ish)) are: I have one wire that has no home  It's a 12V ignition fed plug that's the same shape as the backlights plug for the HVAC controls. My speedo is a bit wobbly and it never was before; does it just need to get readjusted to it's proper place after being reconnected, or do I need to lube it or something? And lastly my stupid dumb annoying coolant light has decided to sporadically flash when I turn the car on, but if I turn it off and restart it goes away (until the next time :sly: ) When I first got this car that f***er flashed for like a month straight and then stopped and worked normally... Whatever you guys can come up with is great! Thanks in advance eace:

Here's that plug, is there supposed to be an ashtray lamp or something that's just not there?? There is a "clear" (tar-infused) cover above the ashtray (actually you can see it in the bottom of the trim piece in the background of this picture).


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

jaweber said:


> Here's that plug, is there supposed to be an ashtray lamp or something that's just not there?? There is a "clear" (tar-infused) cover above the ashtray (actually you can see it in the bottom of the trim piece in the background of this picture).


I am almost certain that is the plug for the ashtray light. I think the ashtray light is actually attached to the cig lighter.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

I believe the ashtray (at least the older Corrados) gets light from the cigarette lighter light. The clear piece sits above the ashtray and the plastic arm with the silver reflective tape reaches over to the cigarette lighter light. The cig. light reflects through the plastic arm, back over the ashtray. I looked at that design for a while trying to figure out what was going on when I replaced my heater core as well.

I just went out to the Corrado to take another look and that slick clear plastic piece decided to fall into the center bezel abiss...will have to dig it out another day lol


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

theprf said:


> I am almost certain that is the plug for the ashtray light. I think the ashtray light is actually attached to the cig lighter.





JDCorrado said:


> I believe the ashtray (at least the older Corrados) gets light from the cigarette lighter light. The clear piece sits above the ashtray and the plastic arm with the silver reflective tape reaches over to the cigarette lighter light. The cig. light reflects through the plastic arm, back over the ashtray. I looked at that design for a while trying to figure out what was going on when I replaced my heater core as well.
> 
> I just went out to the Corrado to take another look and that slick clear plastic piece decided to fall into the center bezel abiss...will have to dig it out another day lol


I'll take a look tomorrow to see if there's some way that it attaches to the cigarette lighter plug to make light, though I think I'm definitely missing a part of the whole setup, by the sound of it its that reflector bit. I'll probably be better off leaving it unplugged anyway as I use my ashtray to store gas receipts, and those don't really deserve their own light. Thank you guys for helping me solve my mysteries, sorry JD for making you lose bits of your Corrado into the under-dash abyss :beer:


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

No worries, losing that part behind the dash is the reason my wife sat in the Corrado for the 1st time since I owned it for 10 months. She has long skinny fingers and was able to reach in there and retrieve the clear plastic part. :thumbup:


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Anyone know what the fender to ground measurement on a stock SLC is? Trying to spec out a new set of rear struts and that would be helpful.


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

JDCorrado said:


> No worries, losing that part behind the dash is the reason my wife sat in the Corrado for the 1st time since I owned it for 10 months. She has long skinny fingers and was able to reach in there and retrieve the clear plastic part. :thumbup:


:laugh:opcorn:

Turns out that plug doesn't connect to the cigarette lighter... I'm still stumped. I'm googling Corrado dash parts at random to see what I can find.

EDIT: I wasn't too bothered before because it wasn't really affecting anything that I could tell, but now I REALLY want to know what it goes to just because someone has to know and its driving me crazy!!


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Anyone know what the fender to ground measurement on a stock SLC is? Trying to spec out a new set of rear struts and that would be helpful.


I checked my '93+ and my '92. It's 25 inches from ground to the highest point of the wheel cutout both front and rear. These 2 cars are all stock, struts, strut mounts, wheel & tire size.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

jaweber said:


> :laugh:opcorn:
> 
> Turns out that plug doesn't connect to the cigarette lighter... I'm still stumped. I'm googling Corrado dash parts at random to see what I can find.
> 
> EDIT: I wasn't too bothered before because it wasn't really affecting anything that I could tell, but now I REALLY want to know what it goes to just because someone has to know and its driving me crazy!!


I have the dash of my basket case '92 all apart and when I can put it together, if I find that plug, I will let you know!


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

theprf said:


> I have the dash of my basket case '92 all apart and when I can put it together, if I find that plug, I will let you know!


:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

I've tucked it away and I will put it out of my mind for now 
Thanks!


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

There is 3 of those plugs. On for the ac/heat knobs and display, one for the cabby light and one for the cigarette. I also have one just hanging around lol. I think the the previous owner wired the 93 oil/volt gauges and cut the cubby but never put the gauges in or? Anybody got the wiring and plug setting for the gauges?


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

Can anyone tell me the size of the bolts that hold the front lip on. My car came with the lip, but not on the car and I'm not sure if the bolts are around....


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Inkarnata said:


> Can anyone tell me the size of the bolts that hold the front lip on. My car came with the lip, but not on the car and I'm not sure if the bolts are around....


You know whats coming, right? They are special bolts... I ordered a set from vw about a year or two ago, and they were still avail and not too much $. You need to make sure you have the Metal Reinforcing strip that clamps the Lip to the bottom of the bumper and has the tabs that the bolts screw into though the lower Rad support. I ordered a new one of those too and it was not terrible...

The special bolts along the front are shouldered bolts with Machine screw threads. The shoulder goes through the lip an prevents you from over tightening and squishing the lip out.

There are 5 shouldered bolts across the front and 2 non-shouldered bolts on each side that bolt the lip to the bumper first. Then you slip the reinforcing strip on , then the Bumper w/lip onto the car. The tabs slip through the slots in the lower rad support and the shouldered bolts go through the reinforcing strip, through the top edge of the lip, through the lower Rad support and screw into the reinforcing strip's clips.


N 015 946 1 are the side non-shouldered Machine screws - Etka says (qty 5), but I only recall 4 (2 on each side), maybe there is one up front in the center before the strip goes on that I am not recalling.
N 101 473 01 (qty 5) speed nuts for above (sides of lip)
N 904 338 01 (qty 5) shouldered bolts
535 807 181 (reinforcing strip)

I'll see if I can dig up a picture


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

^ here it is 











And the 2 on the side that the strip doesn't hold. These get bolted to the bumper with a Machine Screw and washer and go into the speed nut clips on the bumper mentioned previously.


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

sdezego said:


> You know whats coming, right? They are special bolts... I ordered a set from vw about a year or two ago, and they were still avail and not too much $. You need to make sure you have the Metal Reinforcing strip that clamps the Lip to the bottom of the bumper and has the tabs that the bolts screw into though the lower Rad support. I ordered a new one of those too and it was not terrible...
> 
> The special bolts along the front are shouldered bolts with Machine screw threads. The shoulder goes through the lip an prevents you from over tightening and squishing the lip out.
> 
> ...


Yeah... That metal retainer bit fell off of my car over a year ago and the lip has never looked better!! I think the metal strip was all bent up from previous accidents and was causing the lip to flex and look wonky.


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

Thanks all for the help. I do have the metal part...looks like I'll have to get some bolts ordered


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

Anyone have an idea why the coolant light on my G60 is flashing even though the car is cool, the coolant is full, and the radiator fan is running (sometimes)? When I start my car it doesn't flash for about the first thirty seconds, and then it just won't stop. I just had the dash out and replaced the previously bypassed heater core, and now this. When I first bought the car the light just flashed all the time, and then I replaced the coolant and it has been working fine ever since until now. Any ideas??

Thanks!


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

jaweber said:


> Anyone have an idea why the coolant light on my G60 is flashing even though the car is cool, the coolant is full, and the radiator fan is running (sometimes)? When I start my car it doesn't flash for about the first thirty seconds, and then it just won't stop. I just had the dash out and replaced the previously bypassed heater core, and now this. When I first bought the car the light just flashed all the time, and then I replaced the coolant and it has been working fine ever since until now. Any ideas??
> 
> Thanks!


There's a relay involved in that circuit - low coolant level (5). It receives info from the coolant level and temperature sensors. 

If the coolant level is right and the car is stone cold, then it has to be a problem with the circuit. The relay will signal the light to start blinking after a few minutes if a signal isn't received. 

That could be a bad connection at the reservoir, a broken wire, or the relay itself. 

Pull the relay and see if the light stops. That'll rule out a faulty cluster. Then work your way back to the reservoir. I've seen a faulty connection at the reservoir too many times.


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

mateok said:


> There's a relay involved in that circuit - low coolant level (5). It receives info from the coolant level and temperature sensors.
> 
> If the coolant level is right and the car is stone cold, then it has to be a problem with the circuit. The relay will signal the light to start blinking after a few minutes if a signal isn't received.
> 
> ...


Thanks mateok, I'm going out to pull that relay and check the cluster now, I ordered a new coolant ball last night just in case it is the sensor, and because mine looks like garbage...

EDIT: I pulled that relay, and it was really loose. When I started the car there was no flash, so I put the relay back in more firmly than it was, and it's still good so I'm thinking that relay got bumped outta place while I had the dash out, and it was only making partial contact.

Thanks again mateok!


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## GTindie (Jun 12, 2002)

Hi Guru's~

Been working with a great shop to correct the wiring that was hacked up by PO's. 

One of issues that has not been sorted, intermittently the turn signals turn on solid on the cluster and the exterior lights. We tried disconnecting the battery and they still did not turn off. So we started pulling fuses one at a time. The last two times a rather loud pump near the wheel well on the REAR DRIVERS side turns on. I did not find any components in that area when looking thru the Bentley. 

When we pulled fuse circled in red the issue corrected itself. What do these fuses and relays above the main panel control? 










One of the connections on the fuel pump relay has some burn marks. I replaced the relay and have been checking it, it looks ok. Is this caused by a poor connection to the relay panel? 










The E-Code leveling motors are functioning using the rheostat, but they are not adjusting the lights. Before I disassemble the motors is there anything to know?

Can I fix or purchase a new ignition wiring harness? Mine is held on with zip ties. 

TIA
C


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Glad to hear that Tom has been getting religious with you car. You've paved the ground for me to leave my car there with my Euro wiring harnesses for the recaro motors, heated seats and euro light rheostat harness

Check the post on the CCA below. What you're describing sounds like the door lock mech vacuum pump located behind the carpet at the fuel tank plumbing. It looks like it also ties into the micro switches in the door handles. Does the key operate the window up feature on the door locks on each side? I don't think the Corrado got heated lock cylinders but if your car has a cold weather package it may be one more thing to look for as a fault. Did that factory wiring diagram help Tom out at all?

Hey mateok, do you know if VWCP has the ignition harness being referred to?

http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13544









There's more on this PDF diagram on pg 33 onward.
http://www.corrado.com.pl/elektryka/corrado94.pdf


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

Are the tail lamps and parking lamps on the Corrado fused by lamps or by side of the car?? My left tail lamp and my left driving/parking lamp stopped working today at the same time, and I find that to be an awfully large coincidence... I know the parking one has a tendency to make a bad connection and stop working, so it could be that and I have a tail light out, but before I go bulb shopping I figured I'd ask you guys.

Thanks!


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## GTindie (Jun 12, 2002)

petethepug said:


> Glad to hear that Tom has been getting religious with you car. You've paved the ground for me to leave my car there with my Euro wiring harnesses for the recaro motors, heated seats and euro light rheostat harness
> 
> Check the post on the CCA below. What you're describing sounds like the door lock mech vacuum pump located behind the carpet at the fuel tank plumbing. It looks like it also ties into the micro switches in the door handles. Does the key operate the window up feature on the door locks on each side? I don't think the Corrado got heated lock cylinders but if your car has a cold weather package it may be one more thing to look for as a fault. Did that factory wiring diagram help Tom out at all?
> 
> ...


Bingo. I had read that thread and was trying to find it again i thought that could be the culprit but Bentley shows the central locks pump on the passenger side. I was given non functioning keyless entry remotes with the car. The central locks work on both sides. Both sides will roll up the windows using the key. I found a harness on each side that are not connected. Not sure what they are for. Will have to go through this on my next trip to beach. 

Tom is a genius. He stayed way past closing time to diagnose. We had to have a plug n play party until we sorted out why fuse 1 was blowing. Bad rheostat switch. Thankfully I tend to buy 2 and had a spare which solved the problem. 

I have another full day there to correct the audio and loose ends. So thankful for the referral. No one else would have taken the care they did. 

Driving without fear of a fire. Yay. 

Now onto the head gasket.


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## GTindie (Jun 12, 2002)

petethepug said:


> euro light rheostat


Did you get this harness from James at rayne? If so, your lucky, we diagnosed that on the leveling the wiring connections were opposite depending on how you look at the installation sheet in relation to the car. 

I definitely paved the way for any rado owner that goes there.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

GTindie said:


> Hi Guru's~
> 
> Been working with a great shop to correct the wiring that was hacked up by PO's.
> 
> One of issues that has not been sorted, intermittently the turn signals turn on solid on the cluster and the exterior lights. We tried disconnecting the battery and they still did not turn off.


The turn signal anomy you're describing is almost always due to a faulty/failing alarm control module. 

Moreover, the fact that the lights stayed on after disconnecting the battery screams alarm module. It has an auxiliary power source built in in anticipation of the thief who cuts battery cables. 

The fuel pump relay has given you fair warning. Burn marks on pin 87 (input) is a sign of increased resistance (heat) in the circuit. That's most likely due to a tired fuel pump. S18 is protecting things so, it's not an emergency. 

The fuse circled is S90 - alarm system flasher lights fuse. That's yet another finger pointing at the alarm module. Three strikes and yeeeer...bypassed.


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## GTindie (Jun 12, 2002)

Great info.

Starting on the mechanical now that the electrical is nearly complete. Will add fuel pump to the list. 

Thank you so much!


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

GTindie said:


> Did you get this harness from James at rayne? If so, your lucky, we diagnosed that on the leveling the wiring connections were opposite depending on how you look at the installation sheet in relation to the car.
> 
> I definitely paved the way for any rado owner that goes there.


Got all the harnesses came off eBay.de. Some of the wreckers in Germany part VW's with the care of an archeologist.


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## TxJet98 (Jun 29, 2012)

Just did the non-ABS conversion on my 93 SLC. For those who have done this before, I have a couple questions:

-What did you do with all the wires/connectors related to the abs pump?
-How do you eleminate the ABS light on the dash?

Thanks in advance!


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## TxJet98 (Jun 29, 2012)

TxJet98 said:


> Just did the non-ABS conversion on my 93 SLC. For those who have done this before, I have a couple questions:
> 
> -What did you do with all the wires/connectors related to the abs pump?
> -How do you eleminate the ABS light on the dash?
> ...


Anyone?


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

You can pull the entire harness except one connector. I believe it's a black/yellow to D7 that you need to depin from that connector. 

Once the wiring is removed I don't think I've had that light illuminate.


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## GTindie (Jun 12, 2002)

Question regarding the Fuel Pump leveling, I believe its NLA. I was searching using 535 919 673C Pump Mounted Sending Unit. 
• Is there an equivalent Passat version?
• RockAuto has a Delphi, but it includes the pump and leveling, any thoughts on using this or leads on finding a OEM one? 

I will have some questions tomorrow on the cooling system.

Monday should wrap up the overhaul of the electrical system. Car should be 90% done in the next two weeks.

Thanks for all the help, I would never have gotten the build done without help from the guru's.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

They have a few on eBay.uk for 20 quid (used). Your best bet is to get a completely new fuel pump and sender from the place local in Costa Mesa. Sdezego bought one and gave it the run down. It's one of the few unbelievable deals for the Corrado.

Click the cake!


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## GTindie (Jun 12, 2002)

Amazing deal! I will be picking up two Monday if they have them in stock. 



> we have sold over 10,000 of these fuel pumps and have had the flow tested by RC Engineering to verify the output.


I had a set of used fuel injectors rebuilt by RC, they are going on the car next week. Cost was a fraction of buying new and they sent a cool analysis of the results before and after.

The fuel gauge is not accurate but it the water temp is leading me to replace the sender since I already need to do the pump. After pulling the speedo apart the fuel/water gauge has been replaced (date stamp is after the build date). Hoping this resolves it. If not I'll head up to north Hollywood speedometer to replace the voltage stabilizer.

I was able to obtain a stated value insurance policy today thru hagerty that has the same level of coverage and a $0 deductible for $30 more per year than I currently pay. This works only if it's not a dd and lives in a garage.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Hello, on a 92 vr6. Is the low pressure oil sensor on the left or the right on the oil filter housing? What are the part numbers for the low and the high pressure switches? I replaced them over a year ago and the left one started to leak. Thanks.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

blackslcchild said:


> Hello, on a 92 vr6. Is the low pressure oil sensor on the left or the right on the oil filter housing? What are the part numbers for the low and the high pressure switches? I replaced them over a year ago and the left one started to leak. Thanks.


You don't remember what you got the last time you replaced them? (don't take that seriously). It doesn't matter which hole they use, just what wire. 
1.4 bar - yellow wire (high) 
0.3 bar - BL/BK wire (low) 
Maybe only the crush washer is leaking? You can get those sensors for about $5 each from outside vendors. If you want OEM...


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

GTindie said:


> I was able to obtain a stated value insurance policy today thru hagerty that has the same level of coverage and a $0 deductible for $30 more per year than I currently pay. This works only if it's not a dd and lives in a garage.


This is good info. Can you pm me your contact for Hagerty and any pointers? I know AAA is going to put me over a barrel when the next claim occurs. They've perfected the art of being able to deny a claim and total a car.


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

In the middle of a Passat Moonroof swap. I have a 93 and the sunroof is from a B3. 2 questions:

1. The Passat roof did not include the motor, is the newer style one on the Corrado sunroof compatible if I swap it over?
2. Do I have to use the sunshade on the Passat roof, or can I leave it off? The material is filthy and the reglueing job I did doesn't look all that great.

Thanks all.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

mateok said:


> You don't remember what you got the last time you replaced them? (don't take that seriously). It doesn't matter which hole they use, just what wire.
> 1.4 bar - yellow wire (high)
> 0.3 bar - BL/BK wire (low)
> Maybe only the crush washer is leaking? You can get those sensors for about $5 each from outside vendors. If you want OEM...


Hahah! You always deliver with the knowledge mateok! Yeah, I just wanted to verify that I was doing everything possible to make this little gig work. I appreciate that man.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

Inkarnata said:


> In the middle of a Passat Moonroof swap. I have a 93 and the sunroof is from a B3. 2 questions:
> 
> 1. The Passat roof did not include the motor, is the newer style one on the Corrado sunroof compatible if I swap it over?
> 2. Do I have to use the sunshade on the Passat roof, or can I leave it off? The material is filthy and the reglueing job I did doesn't look all that great.
> ...


I used the Corrado motor on my Passat sunroof swap because the Corrado plug wouldn't plug into the Passat motor. It's been fine for 10 years. I might have a B4 sunroof now that I think about it; not sure that matters.

I believe you need the sunroof liner especially for the back to keep the drips that get through the "seal" from falling into the seats. Might be wrong; I don't exactly remember how the Passat roof works. I have a tan sunroof liner in my grey car and you would hardly notice it so don't worry too much about your regluing work.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

He's right that the Corrado motor will go right into the B3 moon roof. 

The sunshade from the B3 doesn't have louvers
The B3 shade has another set of cables attached to it that keeps it in synch with the glass. 
When it's apart you can remove the cables and hardware so it slides independently of the glass (ie: moon roof open, shade closed)
It doesn't have to be reinstalled. Just make sure the drip tray gets clipped in at the front. It catches the water that comes in at the rear of the glass.

All the Passat B3 sliders are usually thrashed, delaminating or filthy. Look for a G/J III or B4 shade with louvers in grey. It's not an exact match for the mouse fur Corrado headliner but it's the closest. You'll also have to pull the fabric, zip cut or grind off the dog leg of the non B3 slider and then glue upholstery back over the slider. B4 & G/J III sliders get pulled back by the glass and have a different rain tray. Once the dog leg is cut off they operate independently of the glass. Just keep the shade and headliner out until you can drop them off at an upholstery shop for a recover. The headliner, sunshade, motor cover and visors make or break the car. Do it right, just one more time. It makes the driving experience better.

Keep in mind that the slider needs to be installed when the headliner's out. Others are right that it can be slid in from the back with the headliner in but, by the time you get in on the tracks the clips get bent, out of shape or broken. Don't put the interior back together for a few weeks and a couple of car washes. I had issues with binding glass related to the slider hanging it up. 

Check out this thread. It's a B3 set up with a B4 slider. There's a pic of a J/G III grey slider too:* Corrado Sunroof Fix - THE GUTS of a Passat Moonroof Cable & Sunshade Repair / Replacement*


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

ABS removal question:

My pedal is not returning to full upright position and the brake light is constantly engaged. The booster I am using is from a 1991 passat- is there an extender piece or something which allows the pedal to return fully upwards?


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

petethepug said:


> This is good info. Can you pm me your contact for Hagerty and any pointers? I know AAA is going to put me over a barrel when the next claim occurs. They've perfected the art of being able to deny a claim and total a car.


I have had really good luck with American Collectors Insurance. They wrote a pretty large agreed value policy for my 95 gti and the rates were quite a bit lowet than Hagerty and Grundy with the same coverage and mileage limits.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

*Transmission Cover Plate 02A301157C*

This part, 02A 301 157 C - Transmission Cover Plate, bolts on to the bell housing to cover the gap between engine block and transmission. The foam is a bit wet with oil around where the plate covers the oil pan bolts in that corner. It's not dripping oil, just a bit of seeping (wet sponge feel). I recently changed the manual trans. fluid, but don't think that had anything to do with it. The oil pan gasket may be leaking a bit.

Can I remove this plate by just removing the 2 lower bolts to take a look, or will stuff start gushing out?
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_III--VR6_12v/ES271378/


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

JDCorrado said:


> This part, 02A 301 157 C - Transmission Cover Plate, bolts on to the bell housing to cover the gap between engine block and transmission. The foam is a bit wet with oil around where the plate covers the oil pan bolts in that corner. It's not dripping oil, just a bit of seeping (wet sponge feel). I recently changed the manual trans. fluid, but don't think that had anything to do with it. The oil pan gasket may be leaking a bit.
> 
> Can I remove this plate by just removing the 2 lower bolts to take a look, or will stuff start gushing out?
> http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_III--VR6_12v/ES271378/


Those 2 bolts will let you take the plate off. Nothing else will come out. Need to wiggle the plate out from behind passenger's CV joint.

Weeping oil from there -> rear main seal or leaks from timing chain covers. (or much less likely, transmission front seal)


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

Thanks for the info ^^^
***SEE UPDATE AT THE BOTTOM***
I noticed a bit of oil seeping around the cover and on the oil pan within the last 3 drives of replacing the trans fluid. May have loosened something up when torquing the trans fluid plugs ? (within 50 miles of driving since manual trans drain/fill).

You can see from this pick where the trans filler port is relative to where the transmission cover is located (Cover off in this pic):









This is what it looked like when I pulled the cover off:









This cover hasn't been touched since 10 years ago or more, looks ugly but was easy to clean up:









Cleaned it up, will monitor:










*8/6/2014 UPDATE:*
I put the car up on the Lift after driving it around. Found that the oil was coming from the oil pan gasket that had relaxed over time. This resulted in some oil seeping out into the trans cover area. You can see in the second pic how the oil was also seeping through the oil pan's screw holes around the screw heads. The Passenger side of the gasket was completely dry.

So I got a socket wrench and confirmed that the bolts on the passenger side were snug, but most of the bolts near the transmission side could be tightened approximately 1/8 of a turn. I didn't see anything coming from anywhere else, so I think that was the source of the problem.


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

need_a_VR6 said:


> CEL is t68/5 dont have a bentley handy to track from there


getting a pulsed ground from that wire, and key on i get no voltage. it was pulled from a running passat (b4) with a working check engine light. i dont have any good diagrams handy. could it be a different wire?


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## WaHelios (May 23, 2003)

B4 Passat & '93+ Corrado sunroof motors are plug and play. Motor #s are an exact match. I literally unbolted the OE steel roof assembly (everything) and bolted in the full B4 glass moonroof assembly, tracks, shade...everything. The late Corrado harness plugged right in. 

I believe all of the '92 and earlier cars a little work is needed for the motors (whether it's swapping the Rado motor over or switching the plug I don't recall).


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Thnx! A plus to have this info on the motors


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

jaweber said:


> I have one wire that has no home  It's a 12V ignition fed plug that's the same shape as the backlights plug for the HVAC controls.
> Here's that plug, is there supposed to be an ashtray lamp or something that's just not there?? There is a "clear" (tar-infused) cover above the ashtray (actually you can see it in the bottom of the trim piece in the background of this picture).


I put the basket case's dash together today and that plug had a piece of masking tape on it labeled "not connected hanging free". It's not my label because I didn't take it apart. I did not see anywhere to hook it up to so it's still "not connected hanging free".


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

It could be used for the oil/volt gauge.


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

Oil bolt gauge is a 5 wore plug (or 4)


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

theprf said:


> I put the basket case's dash together today and that plug had a piece of masking tape on it labeled "not connected hanging free". It's not my label because I didn't take it apart. I did not see anywhere to hook it up to so it's still "not connected hanging free".


That's some peace of mind, I'm usually very good at remembering exactly how things go back together and this was driving me nuts.



blackslcchild said:


> It could be used for the oil/volt gauge.





Dimmu said:


> Oil bolt gauge is a 5 wore plug (or 4)


G60s didn't come with pod gauges anyway did they?? Except in very special cases like the VW Motorsport mega Corrados... Maybe it's for a backlight for gauges they decided never to install??


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## BugAudi (Jul 22, 2014)

*Coolant*

I have a question about coolant in my 1994 corrado. I had to replace the hoses tucked deep under the engine on the water pipe and then I struggled getting it all back together with what appears to be absolutely no leaks. I haven't seen any puddles under the car or or any drips. However until now I have only ever put water in it. The last time I checked the coolant reservoir it was a hot day and there was a descent pressure release when I loosened the cap and steam billowed out for a while. The reservoir is empty now and I am wondering if it is at all possible that the water just evaporated out of the cooling system? I haven't driven it due to a bad ignition switch but it has sat through quite a few 90 degree plus days. I just purchased the G11 coolant from ECS and I don't want to put it in only to find out I'm still leaking somewhere. (Mostly due to the fact that G11 can not be found locally). Let me know what you think. I'm sure i'm just over thinking it, but if anyone knows for sure. it could be some helpful information.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

You cant take the cap off hot, the water boils off. 

There are many coolants that "work" after a proper flush. I wouldnt jump to g11 for exactly the reason you listed. G12 or 12+ if you want to use vw. Or any other generic phosephate free antifreeze if you dont want to bother with hard to find coolant.


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## BugAudi (Jul 22, 2014)

need_a_VR6 said:


> You cant take the cap off hot, the water boils off.
> 
> There are many coolants that "work" after a proper flush. I wouldnt jump to g11 for exactly the reason you listed. G12 or 12+ if you want to use vw. Or any other generic phosephate free antifreeze if you dont want to bother with hard to find coolant.


Well that's a no brained. The car had not been started therefore there wasn't an obvious reason for it to be hot other than the weather. I know about flushing my coolant system and plan to do so. My question was regarding whether it is normal for hot weather to evaporate pure water out of my system or if I should look into the possibility of another leak.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

BugAudi said:


> Well that's a no brained. The car had not been started therefore there wasn't an obvious reason for it to be hot other than the weather. I know about flushing my coolant system and plan to do so. My question was regarding whether it is normal for hot weather to evaporate pure water out of my system or if I should look into the possibility of another leak.


It's difficult to follow the timeline and sequence of events. Sounds like you swapped out the oil cooler hoses, filled it up with water, possibly started the car for a visual leak check and saw nothing -or- didn't start the car and saw nothing?, then let it sit for days/months?, then you took the cap off on a hot day and steam came out for a long while. 

The part about steam coming out of the coolant bottle is strange.
Example: On a 110F day, a vehicle's interior will get up to 150F max because of the solar load...150F isn't hot enough to boil water. The engine compartement of a sitting vehicle will be about the same temp. as the ambient (110F in this example). You can get some evaporation of water over time, but it should be minimal.

I'd fill the sytem up with distilled water and let it sit for a few hours and see if the level drops with the engine OFF. If it drops, fill it up again to see if it was just air bubbles or leaking...If it doesn't drop, then I'd start the vehicle and monitor until the thermostat opens and water gets to temp., looking for leaks. When you filled the water, did you burp the system getting all the air out of it? After I filled mine and ran it per the Bentley, the coolant dropped quite a bit as expected and had to top it off. Need to squeeze some of the hoses, etc...which it sounds like you already know what to do.

If the hoses you changed were the small ones that go to the oil cooler, the hose from the crack pipe to the oil cooler is where mine had a drippy leak when I was filling back up, but it is difficult to see in there.

Have you considered a cooling system pressure test? You may be able to rent a tester from a local auto parts store. Although, it sounds like your system is holding pressure.
This is NOOB advice, I'm not an expert - JD


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## BugAudi (Jul 22, 2014)

Gotcha, there may be a lot more to this than I expected. But i will look into it.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

*Two things come to mind. That's the feed for the slushbox P/R/N/1/2/3 indicator lights and/or the light that's not wired up to the rear ash tray.*



jaweber said:


> Here's that plug, is there supposed to be an ashtray lamp or something that's just not there?? There is a "clear" (tar-infused) cover above the ashtray (actually you can see it in the bottom of the trim piece in the background of this picture).


Two things come to mind. That's the feed for the slushbox indicator lights and/or the light that's not wired up to the rear ash tray.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

petethepug said:


> *Two things come to mind. That's the feed for the slushbox P/R/N/1/2/3 indicator lights and/or the light that's not wired up to the rear ash tray.*
> 
> 
> 
> Two things come to mind. That's the feed for the slushbox indicator lights and/or the light that's not wired up to the rear ash tray.


It's taped into the harness for the cigarette lighter. And it's excessively long. So I'm going to go with the light that is not in the rear ashtray.


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

petethepug said:


> *Two things come to mind. That's the feed for the slushbox P/R/N/1/2/3 indicator lights and/or the light that's not wired up to the rear ash tray.*


*


theprf said:



It's taped into the harness for the cigarette lighter. And it's excessively long. So I'm going to go with the light that is not in the rear ashtray.

Click to expand...

^ ^ ^ I think Mike (petethepug) might be on the money with the PRND123 lights! I was just about to say that about the excessive longness, and now that I've cleaned the cover for the light I actually do have light filtering through from the void between the ash tray and the cigarette lighter so I think that's just design.*


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

JDCorrado said:


> Thanks for the info ^^^
> ***SEE UPDATE AT THE BOTTOM***
> I noticed a bit of oil seeping around the cover and on the oil pan within the last 3 drives of replacing the trans fluid. May have loosened something up when torquing the trans fluid plugs ? (within 50 miles of driving since manual trans drain/fill).
> 
> ...


Is lift in your garage? If so what brand is it? I have been looking for one and it looks similar to the Qwik Lift.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

^^^
http://www.kwik-lift.com/uses.html
Yes, the Lift is in my garage, usually in the flat on the floor position, and I easily park right on top of it. PM me if you have any questions...more pics in posts #599-605 and #703 in this thread:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-to-your-CORRADO-today/page18&highlight=today

You can pick up a used lift for about $1,000, took 2 trips but I was able to bring it home in my Subaru Forester 
I like that I don't have to jack up my vehicle every time I want to look under it. Even when I park in the lowered position (Ramps resting flat on 2"x4" wood on the ground) I can easily get under there.

I don't like having to be directly behind the vehicle when lifting up the ramp to get it in the uprgight flat position. Once it's up there, it isn't going anywhere, super solid system. Enables me to work on the car with my son in a relatively safe environment.

Other example: http://www.restorationramps.co.uk/phdi/p1.nsf/supppages/ramps?opendocument&part=2

Anybody have one of these? :laugh:
http://www.ohgizmo.com/2012/02/16/cardok-elevator-gives-you-james-bonds-style-garage/


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

Very nice. We are looking to build a detached garage sometime soon and I have been looking for a lift. I will have to check CL and see if anyone has a used one for sale. 

On another note, what controls the windows and sunroof when I use the key in the door handle to close them?


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## GTindie (Jun 12, 2002)

*AC*

Wild ride today. 

Cabin fills with smoke, from ac vents, smells like buring plastic. No smell or smoke coming from the engine. 

Pull the dash apart, no burned wires. Pull relay panel. No blown fuses, no burnt tips on relays. 

Ignition switch to on, I go to put the relay panel back up and relay 13 for AC is super hot. I pull it to find it's melted through the side. 

Found the thread below, seems spot on
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5209694-Near-disaster-dash-fire-AC-Relay

The AC is still blowing cold with the relay pulled, is this normal? 

Just had the fan wiring worked on, but med fan has power but cutting on near hi fan temp. Shop recommended replacing thermo switch and black connector for lo/med/hi as the connections are poor. 

Now with the AC relay pulled, the cooling fans don't cut on until 200, and seem to be lo or med speed. Is this due to pulling the relay?

AC compressor was noted to have low suction when system was charged in May. Is it safe to assume it's the culprit?

Any info / recommendations?

I was on my way to work, from the shop. After 6 months of building, the wiring was finished last Monday and passed the block and compression test this morning with flying colors.

Feeling lucky. Car has a new name The Red Toaster. This car is making me work for it. Upside- I can dismantle the entire dash in 5 minutes. :laugh:


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## BugAudi (Jul 22, 2014)

I have what appears to be a coolant leak on the driver's side of my corrado vr6. About 6-10 inches from the wheel right under the pedals. Its leaking out of a few holes in the chassis. Is this the heater core? What else could this be?


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)




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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

My car seems to be driving well, but for some reason it is showing that I'm only getting 5 mpg on the cluster computer (4.5~5.5 mpg). I don't seem to have any abnormal issue, odor, idling or anything. What could be causing this my friends? It was working fine earlier this year.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

Are you actually getting that?


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

No. I'll be tracking the mpg manually for this tank of fuel. I was usually getting about 20-25mpg since most of my driving is cruising/spirited weekend driving.
JD


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

I have a vague recollection of the 92 slc having a vacuum line to the back of the cluster as part of the mfa load calcs. If thats missing or deleted it could cause that behavior.


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## draxxus131 (Aug 17, 2014)

Extremely new here but I do have one question that I was hoping the "experts" on vwvortex could help me out with.....

What roof spoiler is this?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

JDCorrado said:


> My car seems to be driving well, but for some reason it is showing that I'm only getting 5 mpg on the cluster computer (4.5~5.5 mpg). I don't seem to have any abnormal issue, odor, idling or anything. What could be causing this my friends? It was working fine earlier this year.


The fuel consumption signal is calculated by the ECM from the injection period and then sent to the MFA for converting into numbers that make sense. 

You need VAG 1551 to to verify if the consumption signal from the ECM is accurate. I'm sure VCDS would be able to do that, as well. 

You can test the instrument cluster's distance pulse number and see instant MPG to check for accuracy. Every test ends with replace the printed circuit board so, you might want to do the normal Corrado fix - ignore and live with it.


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## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

BugAudi said:


> I have what appears to be a coolant leak on the driver's side of my corrado vr6. About 6-10 inches from the wheel right under the pedals. Its leaking out of a few holes in the chassis. Is this the heater core? What else could this be?


Probably not your heater core as that would leak into the passengers side floor of the interior of the car, and fog up your windshield pretty good also. I'm really not sure what would be leaking out of some chassis holes. Is your coolant low?


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## BugAudi (Jul 22, 2014)

1956dub said:


> Probably not your heater core as that would leak into the passengers side floor of the interior of the car, and fog up your windshield pretty good also. I'm really not sure what would be leaking out of some chassis holes. Is your coolant low?


Yes. It is coolant. I've heard something about a "heater box drain"?? But I honestly have no clue. I know my heater core needs replaced but I don't exactly know what went wrong with it.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

need_a_VR6 said:


> I have a vague recollection of the 92 slc having a vacuum line to the back of the cluster as part of the mfa load calcs. If thats missing or deleted it could cause that behavior.


My '92 slc has a vacuum line to the back of the cluster. I can't tell you if the MPG calcs are correct because the "MFA" button on the wiper stalk doesn't work.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

BugAudi said:


> I have what appears to be a coolant leak on the driver's side of my corrado vr6. About 6-10 inches from the wheel right under the pedals. Its leaking out of a few holes in the chassis. Is this the heater core? What else could this be?


My heater core leak sprayed the gas pedal with boiling coolant. The heater box drain is behind the heat shield, to the passenger's side of the exhaust downpipe, and is for condensate from the A/C evaporator. I don't think you would see anything around the driver's side front tire from inside the heater box.
A coolant leak where you're finding it could be the heater core hoses at the firewall, overflow from the coolant expansion tank, leaks from the aux coolant pump, lots of possibilities.


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## BugAudi (Jul 22, 2014)

theprf said:


> My heater core leak sprayed the gas pedal with boiling coolant. The heater box drain is behind the heat shield, to the passenger's side of the exhaust downpipe, and is for condensate from the A/C evaporator. I don't think you would see anything around the driver's side front tire from inside the heater box.
> A coolant leak where you're finding it could be the heater core hoses at the firewall, overflow from the coolant expansion tank, leaks from the aux coolant pump, lots of possibilities.


Any tips for finding it?


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

BugAudi said:


> Any tips for finding it?


I would run the car until it's hot to get some pressure up in the cooling system and look everywhere with a flashlight for drips. Depending on how dirty it is might clean up as much as possible beforehand to make any leaks easier to see.
The heater core pipes stick through the firewall just to the passenger's side of the brake master cylinder and I have had leaks there run down the firewall and drip off of the frame rail. 
If it blows coolant out of the overflow it will drip just where you say you've got a drip, too. The overflow comes out under the "G11" plastic cover and runs right onto the frame rail. A head gasket leak will add extra pressure and might force coolant out the overflow. 
The hose on the bottom of the coolant expansion tank is another place to check.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

draxxus131 said:


> Extremely new here but I do have one question that I was hoping the "experts" on vwvortex could help me out with.....
> 
> What roof spoiler is this?


I have never seen this spoiler and I must say, it's hideous


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## 1956dub (Jun 12, 2010)

BugAudi said:


> Any tips for finding it?


Like "theprf" said, the only real way off finding it is looking. When I was trying to find my coolant leak it was difficult at first as I'd always check after driving for a while but by that time everything was wet. I ended up letting everything dry, then start it and stare at the engine bay and start following the water trail once I noticed it leaking.


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## BugAudi (Jul 22, 2014)

this is the general area of where the leak is. Its just to the right of the front driver's side wheel. It runs along the metal piece and come out of the hole right behind it.


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## draxxus131 (Aug 17, 2014)

Really? I thought the spoiler seemed to flow with the body pretty well. I have also seen a cosworth lookalike spoiler floating around in an img on google. Might anyone have any good suggestions for a website to observe some exterior modifications, none of that lightshow crap. More along the lines of tasteful spoilers and lip kits possibly? I am very new to VW and having a hard time finding aftermarket body parts for a corrado!


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

BugAudi said:


> this is the general area of where the leak is. Its just to the right of the front driver's side wheel. It runs along the metal piece and come out of the hole right behind it.


You've found where it's going, now follow it back to the source! The coolant expansion tank is almost directly above the frame rail there and that's where I'd start looking. Mine cracked at the bottom hose fitting; it only leaked when the car was fully warmed up (= pressure in the cooling system).


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

draxxus131 said:


> Really? I thought the spoiler seemed to flow with the body pretty well. I have also seen a cosworth lookalike spoiler floating around in an img on google. Might anyone have any good suggestions for a website to observe some exterior modifications, none of that lightshow crap. More along the lines of tasteful spoilers and lip kits possibly? I am very new to VW and having a hard time finding aftermarket body parts for a corrado!


All of the decent body kits were discontinued over 10 years ago. 99% of the corrado's you see today will not have a single stitch of aftermarket body dressings. As for the hatch spoiler I would suggest this one if anything: http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Corrado-Euro-Roof-Extension-Rear-Window-Cover-Spoiler-Wing-Trim-ABS-VR6-G60-/361013837046?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACorrado&hash=item540e19fcf6&vxp=mtr


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

BugAudi said:


> this is the general area of where the leak is. Its just to the right of the front driver's side wheel. It runs along the metal piece and come out of the hole right behind it.


Where that is leaking, cannot come from inside the vehicle, the cabin is sealed shut from the exterior at all points. Your heater core would spill coolant inside the car onto the carpeting and is extremely obvious. Like others have said, run the car to normal operating temps, allow thermostat to open up and run your heat on high and hopefully you will find your leak. Now keep in mind, you may not see a leak until you shut car off and often the coolant overflow reservoir will fill up immediately after turning the vehicle off and it is on that very side.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Weird, I also had that. When I replaced the control arm coolant dripped from that bolt hole.......


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

blackslcchild said:


> Weird, I also had that. When I replaced the control arm coolant dripped from that bolt hole.......


I was going to mention that if you have water or any fluid under you carpet, the only way it would leak out under the car is if you remove your crossmember bolts. So you may have fluid under your carpet


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

draxxus131 said:


> Extremely new here but I do have one question that I was hoping the "experts" on vwvortex could help me out with.....
> 
> What roof spoiler is this?


Strictly Foreign used to sell the "Stinger" kits for Corrado exteriors, and frankly I hate body kits on corrado's, but this one flows pretty well. The tail light kit can be done pretty well and look nice, and the spoiler you have pictured is from that kit. Sadly (for you), Strictly Foreign has been gone for years. Ironically, they were about 30 minutes from me, and I spent a lot of time there when I had my first 2 or 3 corrados. 

Another option is the Reiger...









Here is your spoiler info... http://www.eurotuner.com/featuredvehicles/65598_1993_volkswagen_corrado/?__federated=1

More pix here... http://www.2fast4u.8k.com/photo.html

Classified as for it.... (It's old, but I'd bet still around) ... http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6130405-FS-Corrado-Cosworth-style-rear-wing-spoiler

As for tasteful exterior things, the DDI corrado still is one of the most famous, and absolutely beautiful corrados ever...


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

blackslcchild said:


> Weird, I also had that. When I replaced the control arm coolant dripped from that bolt hole.......


Def overflow tank. Check the cap etc. Also, check your after run pump, they can cause what you are describing.


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

need_a_VR6 said:


> I have a vague recollection of the 92 slc having a vacuum line to the back of the cluster as part of the mfa load calcs. If thats missing or deleted it could cause that behavior.


Paul is 100% correct in that the early clusters have a vac line to the back of them. If you need a pic I have a cluster sitting here. 

Also, you can run the diag numbers without the 1551 (or Vag-Com) by using the stalk. 

Press and hold the MFA button while the car is off, and turn the car on while holding said button. Once car is running, release the button and flip through the menu using that button.

It is the same process listed here... (Although the values will be different as will the parameters being observed)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...Test-Testing-process-and-interpreting-results


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Yeah I swapped the whole thing.


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

*Charger Timing Marks..*

Can anybody tell me if the charger itself has timing marks on the case that i can line up the gears with. I can see the marks on the gears but don't know where to line them up with on the charger. I recently changed my cog belt and everything seemed to be just fine but last week I got home and the charger is making a knocking sound. Upon further inspection it sounds like the displacer is knocking against the case. I'm hoping that maybe its just not in sync and I can just re time it. The pulley spins fine until a certain point where it just binds up a little but then spins fine again. There are no crazy sounds or crunchy feelings to make me think there's any damage. And it didn't blow up like I've had happen before. So if anybody can help me with pictures or advice on the timing marks I would greatly appreciate it. Or if you have any other idea's on what might be going on that would be great two. Thanks in advance!!

DE


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

If it's not timed correctly it won't spin all the way around by hand. The timing mark is the casting mark in the aluminum. It's hard to describe, but there's a "notch" feel when turning the pulley when it's timed. 

If it wasn't timed correctly, it's too late now. Did you spin it 360 by hand before installing it?








The binding feeling you described is troubling. Take the serp belt off and make sure everything lines up. 
Casting mark
Cog notch
Pulley rivet
If you're using a smaller pulley you'll need to line up the woodruff key instead of the rivet.


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

I changed the belt on the car, and yes it spun 360 with no problems after I changed it.

Any other idea's on what it could be. I'm pretty sure it's the displacer hitting the case. Thanks a lot for your help, very appreciated.


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

I finally opened it up and I need a new displacer. If anyone has one please let me know. Thanks in advance. 

David

The Damage:


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Ouch! Sorry, man.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Yeah, finding a good displacer is as tough as finding a good charger. I suggest you consider buying a new displacer from Germany, buying a new charger, finding a good used core dependent upon bbm inspection or a motor swap.


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

Found a displacer and ordering new strips and grease Friday. Thanks everyone for the help. Is there any sort write up that will tell me where all I need to put the kluber grease? Thanks in advance. 

David


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Here ya go

Wanted link for G60 rebuild DIY.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

JDCorrado said:


> No. I'll be tracking the mpg manually for this tank of fuel. I was usually getting about 20-25mpg since most of my driving is cruising/spirited weekend driving.
> JD





Noobercorn said:


> Paul is 100% correct in that the early clusters have a vac line to the back of them. If you need a pic I have a cluster sitting here.
> 
> Also, you can run the diag numbers without the 1551 (or Vag-Com) by using the stalk.
> 
> ...


OK, My Cluster is fixed...I now am reading accurate miles per gallon.

The vacuum line to the cluster seemed to be plugged in OK, but I reached up there from underneath and wiggled it on a bit better. I also noticed a vacuum line that was hooked to the top of the EGR that was a bit dry at the end so I cut about 1cm off and reconnected it. That didn't make any difference though, whether the EGR was connected or not in relation to the Cluster.

It was helpful learning how to use the MFA button. It displayed that the cluster was not reading any vacuum by showing a value of 1100 which means about 1.5psi (basically zero pressure). Once I pushed the cluster hose on more, it started reading between 400-500 which means it had about 15 Hg vacuum. Bentley has a chart that shows what the number indicated translates into.

All is good..........................................for now :thumbup:


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Well done sir.


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

JDCorrado said:


> OK, My Cluster is fixed...I now am reading accurate miles per gallon.
> 
> The vacuum line to the cluster seemed to be plugged in OK, but I reached up there from underneath and wiggled it on a bit better. I also noticed a vacuum line that was hooked to the top of the EGR that was a bit dry at the end so I cut about 1cm off and reconnected it. That didn't make any difference though, whether the EGR was connected or not in relation to the Cluster.
> 
> ...



As mentioned via text earlier today; glad yer sorted bro! 

By the way to all: my new # is 267.454.12seven zero. 

Feel free to text or call me, I'm glad to help if possible. And if I don't know the answer, I can point u in the right direction .


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

You the man mike :thumbup: how's everything btw? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

McNair Corrado Helpline goes live!


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## BugAudi (Jul 22, 2014)

Anyone know where the ambient temperature sensor is supposed to sit? Mines just kind of hanging out by the headlight.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

Sits in the lower grill by on the passenger side. Should be a hole for it.


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## BugAudi (Jul 22, 2014)

Okay so I found where the coolant leak was coming from. There is 2 small square vent holes on the expansion tank hiding under some sort of cover. When it gets hot steam comes out of these holes and the leal forms under the car. Does this just mean that my coolant boils over too easily? (Also i did have it running on mostly water and it was slightly too full) once I put the proper amount of coolant mixed with the right amount of water this will stop, right?


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

The expansion tanks can crack on the seam, or you are pushing coolant past the cap. For the latter if its not running hot you likely just have a bad cap. More serious issues could be overheating, bad hg, etc. but I have seen enough bad caps to try that first.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

BugAudi said:


> Anyone know where the ambient temperature sensor is supposed to sit? Mines just kind of hanging out by the headlight.





capthowdy_1968 said:


> Sits in the lower grill by on the passenger side. Should be a hole for it.


G60's it's in the right hand side brake cooling duct.
92 and older VR's it clips into a hole in the right-most under bumper grille, you can see it sticking out.
93+ cars it's clipped to the right hand frame rail just behind the bumper mounts, so it doesn't get removed with the bumper.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

*Seat Belt Question*

Both of my '93's. Seatbelts work great, so I'm pretty familiar with how they're supposed to work.

My '92. Pass side seatbelt works correctly.
Driver's side is almost correct. Except after the seatbelt closes, every 4 or 5 seconds it tries to close again. I can hear the relays clicking and see the headlights dim (stalled motor = dead short).
It also doesn't open immediately when the door is opened. It waits a few seconds, then opens. I know that in reverse it's not supposed to open and this works.
I took out the seatbelt relay, took it apart and it looks fine, no burnt parts. There's also no timing circuit in it. I checked the B-pilar end-of-travel switch and it's OK. Actually I checked all the switches and they seem OK. I still need to check the latch solenoid and it's release switch and so on.
The only timing thing seems to be that motion/time delay sensor under the back seat. It's hooked up to both seatbelts so if it didn't work I'd expect both to not work?

Anyone seen this before, delayed operation of the driver's side & constant re-closing?

Update: I fixed this, and it wasn't electrical. The sliding bit in front of the actual belt attach point was broken off and was preventing full travel of the sliding parts. I think. Anyway a new used belt mechanism which I just happened to have on hand seems to have done the trick.


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## BugAudi (Jul 22, 2014)

This is normal, right?








I was looking at my 98' Audi 2.8 and I can't find anything on the expansion tank that looks as if it would even serve the same purpose as this.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

BugAudi said:


> This is normal, right?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes, that's normal, that's the coolant overflow when the pressure goes too high. The black cover with "G11" printed on it deflects the overflow downwards. The pressure relief valve is built into the screw-on cap. I'd try a new cap as they're only about 5 bucks.


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

Here are the options for coolant caps, as well as a new res. I would take this opportunity to replace as much as possible to clean up the bay a bit, and would also stuck with the OEM cap just for safety's sake, but that's just my opinion as I'm sure the other offerings are just as good. 

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Corrado--VR6_12v/Engine/Cooling/3


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

1broknrado said:


> You the man mike :thumbup: how's everything btw?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Doing well, thanks for asking. Proud to be clean and sober since Nov 8th, 2013!!!


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

Noobercorn said:


> Doing well, thanks for asking. Proud to be clean and sober since Nov 8th, 2013!!!


congratulations! very happy to hear that! Hope we get to see you again someday soon! 

Best,
Tim


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

Thank you sir.

Quick Q for the masses: what's the benefit of the 1.8T IAT sensor swap I keep reading about? I'm not familiar with it, and am asking purely out of curiousity.


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## Corzee (Mar 21, 2012)

Noobercorn said:


> Thank you sir.
> 
> Quick Q for the masses: what's the benefit of the 1.8T IAT sensor swap I keep reading about? I'm not familiar with it, and am asking purely out of curiousity.


Its open-element vs the closed-element VR6 sensor. Doesnt heat soak and provides a more accurate temperature reading.


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

Ah, makes sense. Thanks! :thumbup:


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

Corzee said:


> Its open-element vs the closed-element VR6 sensor. Doesnt heat soak and provides a more accurate temperature reading.


Exactly why I am running one with my VEMS setup :thumbup:


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## BlkdOutA4 (Dec 27, 2009)

Ok gentlemen, I've searched and can come up with no real answers. I took my passenger side oem window reg out and replaced it with the A1 electric regulator. Window comes down about an inch then stops...can't really see anything that would be stopping it... Help please


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

BlkdOutA4 said:


> Ok gentlemen, I've searched and can come up with no real answers. I took my passenger side oem window reg out and replaced it with the A1 electric regulator. Window comes down about an inch then stops...can't really see anything that would be stopping it... Help please


Disconnect & remove the glass then try again to make sure the regulator is working. 
The wires in the door have to be positioned just right or they get tangled up with the regulator arms & the window glass, which I bet is your trouble.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Noobercorn said:


> Ah, makes sense. Thanks! :thumbup:


I had a post or billion about it in the 12v forum. Stock ecu/na its worth ~2whp across the board and worth a little more down low. Icing the manifold didnt do a thing after that and the intake spacer. Saved me thousands in ice over the years


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## BlkdOutA4 (Dec 27, 2009)

theprf said:


> Disconnect & remove the glass then try again to make sure the regulator is working.
> The wires in the door have to be positioned just right or they get tangled up with the regulator arms & the window glass, which I bet is your trouble.


Ok, yea the regulator works for sure. I'll have to give it a look here to see if its catching wires or something. Thanks


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## CorradoFuhrer (Mar 21, 2002)

need_a_VR6 said:


> I had a post or billion about it in the 12v forum. Stock ecu/na its worth ~2whp across the board and worth a little more down low. Icing the manifold didnt do a thing after that and the intake spacer. Saved me thousands in ice over the years


Are you referencing the 1.8 iat swap?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Corrado****** said:


> Are you referencing the 1.8 iat swap?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

This isn't the best picture but I just reassembled my charger and I wanted to know if there is suppose to be in and out play in the main shaft in the directions of my arrows. Not a lot but enough for me to be curious. Also if the pulley isn't installed totally should the cog belt be backing off while I'm spinning it. Thanks in advance and any advice would help. 

David


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

I solved the belt sliding off thing... I had the bottom cog gear on backwards. Whoops, problem solved. But still curious about the play. 

Thanks,

David


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## jmhenry8732 (Sep 4, 2014)

*01 1.8t wolfsburg*

I know enough about car as in being able to do my own work but not completely being able to diagnose. So here's the issue, my MAF and ABS sensors pop on and when I turn the car off it doesn't want to turn back on. let it sit for a little while and it'll fire right up. When it first happened the battery completely died and it would only run with jump box( or cables) connected. Got the battery charged and it will stay running but when I turn it off it won't start for a little while. I've heard it could be my alternator or my ignition switch. Just want to know if theres a way to figure it out my self because autozone says the alternators fine but I don;t understand how the ignition switch could make it do this. I appreciate any help. - Jonathon


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

Gonna upgrade the shifter in the car to an o2j unit. I know there is some fab work.. Will any shift box work? The one I'm looking at is from a 6speed car


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Dimmu said:


> Gonna upgrade the shifter in the car to an o2j unit. I know there is some fab work.. Will any shift box work? The one I'm looking at is from a 6speed car


Yes. 02j 5 speed and 02m 6 speed shift boxes are the same.

Edit: clarified just to make sure other's don't misinterpret what I wrote due to failing to read the question


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

sdezego said:


> Yes. 02j and 02m 6 speed boxes are the same.


Thank you sir


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## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

Dimmu said:


> Thank you sir


I can confirm, I just did this a few weekends ago. In my case I had an o2m shift box from an R32 and an o2j shift box from a jetta and the only difference I could find was the bracket that secures the cables to the top of the transmission, which you will want from the o2j.


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## G60 Madness (Jan 4, 2010)

Ok so the charger support bar does not line up to the charger bracket , about 25 degrees off, can bolt to block with no problem But that I turn leads to the silencer hose hitting the fan - any ideals ?? Many the engine and trans are not centered.
Thanks Chris


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

*Would you drive an 1800 mile trip in your (less-than-perfect) Corrado??*

My girlfriend wants to take a roadtrip to New York City to visit the pop-up Central Perk Cafe that's opening this month, and just the thought of driving for ~30hours in a rented Chevy Spark makes my back break in protest. Now my questions are: Am I crazy to even consider risking it in a G60 with 117000 miles, mostly original engine/drive-train bits, and a bypassed G Lader? And if I were to attempt this what parts should I expect to fail and bring with me?? I'll qualify this whole thing with the fact that my car has been amazingly reliable to me since I bought it in May of '13 with the biggest repair being the water pump, and now the front wheel bearings needing to be replaced.

P.S. I know I'm crazy and I need you guys to talk me out of this so I can consider flying instead :screwy:


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

seerpink said:


> Ok so the charger support bar does not line up to the charger bracket , about 25 degrees off, can bolt to block with no problem But that I turn leads to the silencer hose hitting the fan - any ideals ?? Many the engine and trans are not centered.
> Thanks Chris


Gotta pic of things and which bracket in case I'm assuming incorrectly.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

petethepug said:


> Gotta pic of things and which bracket in case I'm assuming incorrectly.


Here is the way it's supposed to be:









From the corradoalley archives


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

jaweber said:


> My girlfriend wants to take a roadtrip to New York City to visit the pop-up Central Perk Cafe that's opening this month, and just the thought of driving for ~30hours in a rented Chevy Spark makes my back break in protest. Now my questions are: Am I crazy to even consider risking it in a G60 with 117000 miles, mostly original engine/drive-train bits, and a bypassed G Lader? And if I were to attempt this what parts should I expect to fail and bring with me?? I'll qualify this whole thing with the fact that my car has been amazingly reliable to me since I bought it in May of '13 with the biggest repair being the water pump, and now the front wheel bearings needing to be replaced.
> 
> P.S. I know I'm crazy and I need you guys to talk me out of this so I can consider flying instead :screwy:


A bypassed g60 is very reliable but **** happens and alls you need is a bad radiator flange to ruin your trip.


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## G60 Madness (Jan 4, 2010)

It's the 1/4 moon shaped spacer that the support bolts to, I'll have to tear it out and see what the hell I've screwed up. Thanks for the pic, the never ending story If it's not one thing it 's another


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## Sperman508 (Aug 7, 2006)

*Later Style Headlight Switch*

Heres my issue for the experts...

I've been through three headlight switches in the last two yrs. They're all doing the same thing, they overheat to the point of smoking, the overheating causes the plastic forks/fingers the push on the contacts to melt. 

Is this a common Rado issue or may this be related to the Euro/French headlights?

Thanks:beer:


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

Sperman508 said:


> Heres my issue for the experts...
> 
> I've been through three headlight switches in the last two yrs. They're all doing the same thing, they overheat to the point of smoking, the overheating causes the plastic forks/fingers the push on the contacts to melt.
> 
> ...


you haver something wired wrong, time to bust out the bentley :thumbup:


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Sperman508 said:


> Heres my issue for the experts...
> 
> I've been through three headlight switches in the last two yrs. They're all doing the same thing, they overheat to the point of smoking, the overheating causes the plastic forks/fingers the push on the contacts to melt.
> 
> ...


There's a lot of variables involved, but it sounds as if you have too much resistance in the circuit. The headlight switch was engineered to handle the current of a properly working circuit, barely. The problems started when the wiring started aging. So, it's certainly a problem now considering the Corrado's age. 

I'm assuming you have them relay'd which takes a lot of the load off the switch. Check the resistance of the circuit's wires, both power and ground side. No doubt the terminal ends of the switch harness itself are burned up after three times. If the fuses aren't blowing that would point me to the ground side of things.:thumbup:


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

G60ING said:


> A bypassed g60 is very reliable but **** happens and alls you need is a bad radiator flange to ruin your trip.


Radiator flange is new :thumbup: What else comes to mind?? The coolant system is definitely where I expected the problems to come from though so I'm glad my assumptions are making sense so far... The other assumption I had was the fuel pump.


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## VR-SICK RADO (Nov 17, 2010)

I have a 92' SLC, under the hood mods are P-Flow, the rest is stock.
I'm not sure if it's OBD-1, or OBD-2? Also don't know if the transmission is O2A, or another.
Thx


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Obd1 and o2a unless things have been swapped.


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Obd1 and o2a unless things have been swapped.


paul, why you always hangin out in the corrado forum?


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## VR-SICK RADO (Nov 17, 2010)

Thx Paul,


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Dimmu said:


> paul, why you always hangin out in the corrado forum?


You guys need the most help? I kid! Honestly, I finally picked up a 93 slc after not getting one 15 years ago. I will post something once I start making progress on it.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Dimmu said:


> paul, why you always hangin out in the corrado forum?





need_a_VR6 said:


> You guys need the most help? I kid! Honestly, I finally picked up a 93 slc after not getting one 15 years ago. I will post something once I start making progress on it.


I've been wondering the same thing. This thing is certain to be one of the fastest pigs out on the track.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

I hope so. Took the right car to get me out of my long term relationship with the mk3. I have been yrying to get a hold of this car for a bit. Big step up for me chassis-wise. Just need to "throw it together" and do a bit of wiring :sly:


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

jaweber said:


> Radiator flange is new :thumbup: What else comes to mind?? The coolant system is definitely where I expected the problems to come from though so I'm glad my assumptions are making sense so far... The other assumption I had was the fuel pump.


ok so one $10 part is ruled out and 500 more to go, goodluck.

If you want an idea of of the type of crap that can happen, I had a lock cylinder failure happen to me back in 2001 when on a trip from Virginia to Florida. It stopped turning the ignition switch far enough to engage the ignition switch to the starter run position. I was able over come the issue with a jumper wire from the starter to the battery every time I wanted to start the car where pop starting wasn't an issue. It made for an interesting trip. Fortunately I had a bag of tools and a multimeter so I could keep going without calling AAA Platimum (200mile free towing).


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## 8vbunny (Oct 2, 2002)

Can I buy your car?


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

G60ING said:


> AAA Platinum (200mile free towing).


The Platinum (AAA Premier in Cali) is mandatory with any VAG car owned. Most don't only the basic 7 mile tow is the only one you can buy until after the 1st year of having AAA. Just checked this. Yup, as soon as I wrote it, it changed. Now it's only a 90 day wait with no tows occurring to upgrade in Cali. 


_Existing members with Classic level of benefits are eligible to upgrade to AAA Plus® or AAA Premier® if the primary member in the membership household has been a primary member of the Auto Club for the prior 90 days and there have been no tows in the membership household through the Auto Club during this same period. Existing members with AAA Plus level of benefits may upgrade to AAA Premier at any time. Former members of the Auto Club who previously had Plus or Premier level of benefits within the past 365 days can rejoin at the Plus or Premier benefit level. AAA Plus and AAA Premier Roadside Assistance benefits and Optional RV and Motorcycle benefits are effective 7 calendar days after purchase date if paid in full. _ 

The going rate in Cali is $158 for a family or $122 for single + 1 time enrollment fee $20.


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## ein (Feb 3, 2007)

need_a_VR6 said:


> I hope so. Took the right car to get me out of my long term relationship with the mk3. :sly:


You mean it finally rusted away...


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

need_a_VR6 said:


> I hope so. Took the right car to get me out of my long term relationship with the mk3. I have been yrying to get a hold of this car for a bit. Big step up for me chassis-wise. Just need to "throw it together" and do a bit of wiring :sly:


I know the Corrado is a lot heavier than the MK2 but how does it compare to the MK3? It should be interesting to see how the time slips compare.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

ein said:


> You mean it finally rusted away...


One of the only reasons I could make the chassis swap was my Mk3 was virtually rust free  Just a tiny spot on the leading edge of the windshield seal. I threw in a brand new OE non sunroof clip to sweeten the deal. Well that and a ton of other stuff!!



G60ING said:


> I know the Corrado is a lot heavier than the MK2 but how does it compare to the MK3? It should be interesting to see how the time slips compare.


My Mk3 weighed exactly the same as my MK2 at the same "comfort level" once I got rid of the rear bumper rebar and both airbags. MK2 is only a lot lighter when it has lighter stuff in it, cloth seats, crank windows, euro bumpers, early small brakes, drum rears, no sunroof, etc, etc. I liked the MK3 a lot better for racing because I could fit a LOT more tire under it. 

The Corrado doesn't look goofy with the 26" under it, which is a good start.


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

G60ING said:


> ok so one $10 part is ruled out and 500 more to go, goodluck.
> 
> If you want an idea of of the type of crap that can happen, I had a lock cylinder failure happen to me back in 2001 when on a trip from Virginia to Florida. It stopped turning the ignition switch far enough to engage the ignition switch to the starter run position. I was able over come the issue with a jumper wire from the starter to the battery every time I wanted to start the car where pop starting wasn't an issue. It made for an interesting trip. Fortunately I had a bag of tools and a multimeter so I could keep going without calling AAA Platimum (200mile free towing).


Already broken!! I have a direct-wired push button thanks to the PO  Keep throwing 'em at me! Honestly the two things I'm most worried about are the fuel pump and the variable crank timing, and the latter is mostly because I don't really understand how the whole thing works, and "shearing a crank-key" sounds absolutely terrifying.



petethepug said:


> The Platinum (AAA Premier in Cali) is mandatory with any VAG car owned. Most don't only the basic 7 mile tow is the only one you can buy until after the 1st year of having AAA. Just checked this. Yup, as soon as I wrote it, it changed. Now it's only a 90 day wait with no tows occurring to upgrade in Cali.


Yeah, AAA is a must, it's been on my "to purchase" list for a year and a half now. So far I've been able to get away with upgrading my parents' to platinum and using that when I need a tow. (which was only once, and it was the day I bought the car because it had no brakes).

I'll also add that every single one of my friends that I've told this to has told me I'm crazy and that my car'd never make it... but their Corrado knowledge is based solely off of what I've told them; and perhaps I've retold a few too many Corrado horror stories.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

jaweber said:


> Already broken!! I have a direct-wired push button thanks to the PO  Keep throwing 'em at me! Honestly the two things I'm most worried about are the fuel pump and the variable crank timing, and the latter is mostly because I don't really understand how the whole thing works, and "shearing a crank-key" sounds absolutely terrifying.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


do your trip, there are lots of things that can impact a car trip with a 24year old car. The fuel pump and and crack cog are just the tip of the iceberg to be concerned about. That being said I've driven my Corrado across the country twice and up/down the coasts twice in the past year.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

jaweber said:


> My girlfriend wants to take a roadtrip to New York City to visit the pop-up Central Perk Cafe that's opening this month, and just the thought of driving for ~30hours in a rented Chevy Spark makes my back break in protest. Now my questions are: Am I crazy to even consider risking it in a G60 with 117000 miles, mostly original engine/drive-train bits, and a bypassed G Lader? And if I were to attempt this what parts should I expect to fail and bring with me?? I'll qualify this whole thing with the fact that my car has been amazingly reliable to me since I bought it in May of '13 with the biggest repair being the water pump, and now the front wheel bearings needing to be replaced.


Can't answer for your car. I would/will drive my '93 VR anywhere with roads. I regularly do 700 mile trips in one day (Boston -> Rochester -> Boston). It's got 260k+. Except I've had it for 21 years (22 years? I forgot) and I know everything that has been replaced and everything that has not. I do realize that anything on it could break at any time, like the radiator hose that split last week.
That said I drove the purple '93 from Florida to Mass over labor day weekend with no real trouble and it was totally new to me - it has 150k+. I did bring a spare serp belt tensioner and could have used a spare windshield.

My reasoning is how does the car know that it's a 24 hour drive and not 24, 1 hour drives? When I had my airplane people would get weirded out that I flew it a lot at night and over water. My reasoning to them, how does the plane know that it's night? Or that it's flying over water?

So I can't answer for your car, only you can, though I would get the wheel bearings fixed - Corrado's do love to go through wheel bearings.


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## nsoave (Aug 6, 2014)

*new guy with coolant problem*

1990 g6o corrado, car runs fine but coolant is leaking directly from the reservoir tank, and i dont think any is getting to the radiator, so is there any way to put coolant directly in the radiator, at least until my new tank is delivered and installed? i DD the car, need some help, thanks. :thumbup:


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

nsoave said:


> 1990 g6o corrado, car runs fine but coolant is leaking directly from the reservoir tank, and i dont think any is getting to the radiator, so is there any way to put coolant directly in the radiator, at least until my new tank is delivered and installed? i DD the car, need some help, thanks. :thumbup:


You probably have an air pocket in the lower radiator hose. Pull the upper radiator hose off the engine, pour water into it. Squeeze the bottom radiator hose until all of the air is out. Then fire the car up again. If the bottom hose doesn't get hot it has air trapped and this air pocket will car the car to over heat and spit water out the coolant reservoir tank.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

nsoave said:


> 1990 g6o corrado, car runs fine but coolant is leaking directly from the reservoir tank, and i dont think any is getting to the radiator, so is there any way to put coolant directly in the radiator, at least until my new tank is delivered and installed? i DD the car, need some help, thanks. :thumbup:


This is a dual post. He's asking same Q in another post created called "New guy asking the experts" !?!?


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

G60ING said:


> do your trip, there are lots of things that can impact a car trip with a 24year old car. The fuel pump and and crack cog are just the tip of the iceberg to be concerned about. That being said I've driven my Corrado across the country twice and up/down the coasts twice in the past year.





theprf said:


> Can't answer for your car. I would/will drive my '93 VR anywhere with roads. I regularly do 700 mile trips in one day (Boston -> Rochester -> Boston). It's got 260k+. Except I've had it for 21 years (22 years? I forgot) and I know everything that has been replaced and everything that has not. I do realize that anything on it could break at any time, like the radiator hose that split last week.
> That said I drove the purple '93 from Florida to Mass over labor day weekend with no real trouble and it was totally new to me - it has 150k+. I did bring a spare serp belt tensioner and could have used a spare windshield.
> 
> My reasoning is how does the car know that it's a 24 hour drive and not 24, 1 hour drives? When I had my airplane people would get weirded out that I flew it a lot at night and over water. My reasoning to them, how does the plane know that it's night? Or that it's flying over water?
> ...


Thanks guys!! This really gives me the confidence I need. I trust my car, and I know my way around it pretty well, but this gives me a way to show everyone else that I'm not nuts. "theprf", I read about your windshield and that just sucks! Also, I totally agree with you on the "the car doesn't know how far it's going" subject, it's really all about knowing your car and doing the regular maintenance. I don't know if I'll end up driving there or if flying will be cheaper after I factor in that wheel bearing (which I really need to do... my top speed is like 50MPH); but I do know that I am psyched at the thought of driving across the country (well half of the country) in my Corrado!


----------



## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

jaweber said:


> Thanks guys!! This really gives me the confidence I need. I trust my car, and I know my way around it pretty well, but this gives me a way to show everyone else that I'm not nuts. "theprf", I read about your windshield and that just sucks! Also, I totally agree with you on the "the car doesn't know how far it's going" subject, it's really all about knowing your car and doing the regular maintenance. I don't know if I'll end up driving there or if flying will be cheaper after I factor in that wheel bearing (which I really need to do... my top speed is like 50MPH); but I do know that I am psyched at the thought of driving across the country (well half of the country) in my Corrado!


I bought my '90 G60 at Commonwealth VW in the Santa Ana Auto mall in Santa, Ana CA. Traded my '91 Tornado red Jetta Coupe. (My G60 looked *exactly* like yours, btw, even to the OEM bra). Shortly after my job was moved back to Mass. I packed my stuff into the Corrado and headed out, I drove from Los Angeles to Boston without stopping for more than an hour, in 44 hours driving time as recounted by the trip computer. I wouldn't do that again. So there's a good history of long road trips by Corrado. However, it's usually cheaper to fly if the trip is more than 5 or 6 hours by car, or if you're up for adventure there's always Amtrack.

Oh, I just discovered that driving the purple one might not have been that great of an idea. It developed the usual VR fuel seepage at the fuel filter crimps. I finally got a box of the Otteker clamps and fixed that tonight. Before declaring victory I decided to crank it up and look for leaks, none found, but what's that smell of gas now? Now the usual Corrado idiocy starts. A huge puddle behind the pass. front tire - oh great, it's the clamps at the other end of the fuel lines too, can fix those in a jiffy. Except I can't get the hood open, what's this, the release worked 2 weeks ago and I haven't touched it since, haven't even driven it. Finally get the hood open - it's on crooked so the pins don't line up right. Then I see the 2 VR fuel lines are cracked right into the reinforcing cords. Fantastic. And what's this puddle of water on the transmission? Is there any coolant left - yes, but it's straight rusty water. And why is the after run pump running? Oh man, it never ends...


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## VR-SICK RADO (Nov 17, 2010)

Hey guys, I'm looking to re-paint my Rado. How do I find out the original paint code? My Rado is a 92' SLC and don't know if it's Tornado Red, or Flash Red.
I plan on painting it the original color.
Thx.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

SLC rados are flask red


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Here is the sticker that is installed in the boot with your car's build specs:


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## VR-SICK RADO (Nov 17, 2010)

Thx G60ing, much appreciated


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## 33Dubnut (Jul 11, 2009)

*Audi 2.0T vs VW 2.0T differences?*

Okay so the 2.0t engine went in my wife's 06 A4 Quatro with 63000 miles on it (oil pump). I was told it's a total loss because it was oil starves and the head is likely shot along with the bottom end since it locked up. I've been looking on car-part.com and finding used engines for the A4 start around $2500 with over 100k on them. Well the timing belt went in my sisters 08 Jetta 2.0T and I'm finding those engines are way cheaper. There's one listed with 25,000 miles for $1900 and some with 60,000 miles for $1200! My question is, besides the way they sit in the engine bay, what's the difference in the 2 engines? I was thinking maybe the cylinder head would be different but I've never had a 2.0 apart so I'm not sure. I know their both plagued with the same cam, cam chain tensioner and fuel pump cam follower issues but is it the same engine? In other words could I use a VW 2.0T in my Audi?


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

33Dubnut said:


> In other words could I use a VW 2.0T in my Audi?


Wong thread, this is generally for Corrado specific questions. There're a couple of guys who might chime in, otherwise you'd probably have better luck in the 2.0t forums; there're a few different ones depending on what generation your engine is, here's the original http://forums.vwvortex.com/forumdisplay.php?739-2-0T-FSI-TSI-and-TFSI-(EA113)-Engine-Forum
Good luck though :beer:


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## 33Dubnut (Jul 11, 2009)

Sorry about that.


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## CorradoGermany (Sep 14, 2014)

*All original needing some refreshment*

I have a 1992 VR6. What are your top tips regarding sourcing a radio, *a passenger seatbelt tensioner,* repairing the driver's seat's leather, and replacing the rear bumper?

Thanks so much guys.

PS: Was the VR6 in America ever badged as such or only as the SLC? My question stems from the fact that my father bought our car new in Germany in 1992. The stickers regarding American emissions say it has the 2.8L engine which I believe makes it an American car. However, it is badged VR6, not SLC, something I have never seen on another American car. What am I missing here?


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

Has anyone ever tried to fix the tape deck on the stock Heidelberg HU that came in our Corrados?? My tape deck decided it won't play side 1 anymore. I took it out and cracked it open. All I can figure out is that there's too much resistance in the side A drive spinner thing so it stops and flips to side B which plays fine with a tape, but doesn't work so well with an omnidirectional MP3 adapter. I'm just curious if there're any old threads about this or if anyone has some insight. Thanks!


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

jaweber said:


> Has anyone ever tried to fix the tape deck on the stock Heidelberg HU that came in our Corrados??


What is the part# of the radio? I have a head unit here that doesn't have the code. You could transplant the tape transport if it's the same one without too much trouble. 

Or you can get an FM modulator device to play mp3's through the radio which is what I did for my Purple Corrado. It was like $20 at best buy.


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

theprf said:


> What is the part# of the radio? I have a head unit here that doesn't have the code. You could transplant the tape transport if it's the same one without too much trouble.
> 
> Or you can get an FM modulator device to play mp3's through the radio which is what I did for my Purple Corrado. It was like $20 at best buy.


No idea on the part number atm, I put the HU back in the car because I can't stand the giant hole , but it's the standard Heidelberg that came with the Corrado Aktiv system. Mine's out of a '91 if it helps, apparently the PO had it replaced. I hate those FM things, so that's a no-go for me.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

jaweber said:


> it's the standard Heidelberg that came with the Corrado Aktiv system.


There were 2 manufacturers of these head units, Panasonic and Blaupunkt. I think. They look very slightly different.
Regardless, it doesn't matter, the code-less head unit I have is for the 93+ cars without Aktiv so I doubt the tape transport will fit. Sorry about that .


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

theprf said:


> There were 2 manufacturers of these head units, Panasonic and Blaupunkt. I think. They look very slightly different.
> Regardless, it doesn't matter, the code-less head unit I have is for the 93+ cars without Aktiv so I doubt the tape transport will fit. Sorry about that .


No worries! Thanks for trying :thumbup:
I didn't know there were two different manufacturers though.... That's interesting, I do know that mine was made in Japan because it has a sticker saying so... so I'm assuming it was made by Panasonic.


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## German Juggernaut (Jan 26, 2005)

*So I'm rebuilding the front bumper...*

... and one of the brackets (normally mounted into the front bumper skin) is missing. Got another one in... wondering if there is some sort of miracle glue or specific compound I should be using to attach it back in there. 

Pics are in the thread I posted to acquire said missing part:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7029864-WTB-G60-Front-Bumper-(Clip-Slot-)-pic-shows-what-I-need

Suggestions?


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

German Juggernaut said:


> ... and one of the brackets (normally mounted into the front bumper skin) is missing. Got another one in... wondering if there is some sort of miracle glue or specific compound I should be using to attach it back in there.
> 
> Pics are in the thread I posted to acquire said missing part:
> 
> ...


3M DP8005 is the only thing I have ever used that will glue polyethylene and polypropylene. It was designed to... glue car bumpers together!


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## German Juggernaut (Jan 26, 2005)

theprf said:


> 3M DP8005 is the only thing I have ever used that will glue polyethylene and polypropylene. It was designed to... glue car bumpers together!




Jesus tap-dancing christ that stuff is expensive. I guess you get what you pay for?

Cheapest price I could find on Amazon was $48.64 for a 1.25 fl oz / 35mL tube... how many of those do you think I'll need? 

Any idea where to get it at a cheaper price?


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

German Juggernaut said:


> Jesus tap-dancing christ that stuff is expensive. I guess you get what you pay for?
> Cheapest price I could find on Amazon was $48.64 for a 1.25 fl oz / 35mL tube... how many of those do you think I'll need?
> Any idea where to get it at a cheaper price?


That's about the going price for the glue. You need about 1/5 th of a tube. To get the stuff out of the tube you need an applicator, a 10:1 plunger, and a static mixer - which is another $50 or so. This is not a cheap game I'm afraid. If you bring your parts here - just outside of Worcester, MA - I'll glue them for you with this stuff.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

*Low Brake Fluid Flow to Rear*

'92 SLC with ABS: I have owned this vehicle for one year. No issues with the Brakes or ABS. I tried to show the Corrado some love by installing SS Braided Flex Lines Front/Mid/Rear, but I'm not feeling the love back. Per Bentley I bled the Front (No Problem with good firm feel afterwards), then the rear...found that I was getting little flow. This is my 1st time bleeding the Corrado, so I don't know what "right" looks like for the rear.

Initially I thought a line may have been clogged. I checked the flow rate working from the rear of the vehicle all the way to the exit port out of the hydraulic modulator. The vehicle has wheels on the ground, Ignition On, brake is fully depressed, Hydraulic pump functioning no more than 2 min. in a 10 min. period...Brake fluid reservoir always above MIN level.

Anyway, I worked my way all the way up to Brake line #8 in the picture below that comes out of the Hydraulic Modulator. I'm getting the same trickle of flow out of that as I am in the rear. To be clear, flow is visually the same before and after the pressure regulator valve (Part #9), which confirmed that isn't the root cause. I even turned the engine on and the flow remained about the same....a dribble of 2 to 3 drops per second. I thought there should be a continuous stream of flow, but maybe my expectations are wrong.

The line definately is building up pressure, but the flow rate is nothing like when I bled the front. I realize that air was introduced into the system when replacing the middle and rear flex hoses, but it seems to be taking too long to get flow out the rear calliper bleeders.... *Any suggestions?* umpkin:










I checked flow all the way up to line #8 in the above image, also pictured below for reference


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

^^^ Short version: what could cause 2-3 drip per second brake fluid flow coming from the hydraulic modulator while bleeding directly from brake line #8?


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

JDCorrado said:


> ^^^ Short version: what could cause 2-3 drip per second brake fluid flow coming from the hydraulic modulator while bleeding directly from brake line #8?


I have bled the rears with the procedure you describe: ignition on, wheels on the ground, brake pedal pressed and got quite a bit of flow. So, what you are getting is clearly wrong. Did you check the trouble codes in the ABS? I would also check the electrical connections for corrosion.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

Do I need a scan tool to check the ABS codes?


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Hey JD, what are you using to compress the f/r brake modulator? Either it's bad or you’re not compressing it enough if you don’t get flow to the rear. Assuming the car was working fine prior to installing the s/s brake lines you should start with the easiest and most obvious. Make sure you have the piston fully depressed with a pair of C clamp vice grips.










It they still don’t bleed out at the rear after you get the vice grips on the modulator good and tight you should replace your valve. Their plentiful and less than a C note, shipped on eBay (P# 357612151)


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## reborndub (Jun 18, 2009)

I did mine on jack stands. Just released the spring from the prop valve and moved the lever to open position (up iirc) and bled with key on. Had no issues what so ever with this method. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

JD is disconnecting the line from the ABS valve block and getting no flow, unless I misunderstand. The brake proportioner can't have any influence at that point in the system.

I think the 92 can blink trouble codes on the ABS light; the 93+ cars cannot. Should be in Bentley.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Recently, my G60 has started producing a tapping noise from the engine. upon further investigation it seems to be coming from around cylinder #1. With research and some tests it seems I may have a noisy lifter. I don't have much money right now so I am looking fro solutions and suggestions. I want to fix this right, but if there is cheaper quicker ways that will work without damaging anything I would be most interested. I am currently running full synthetic 10W-40 mobil1 oil. 

I also may have a sticky piston ring. My compression tests show that cylinder one is lower than the others by about 20-30 psi. putting oil in there brings it right up with the others. Any suggestions on this too would be helpful. The test was 110-135-135-135 in 1-2-3-4 respectively. This is my daily driver, and I can't really afford a new engine, or to rebuild right now.

Incidentally what are the consequences of putting off fixing until I can afford a rebuild, which may be some time. Thanks all, I am sure any good relevant advice will be a big help.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

theprf said:


> JD is disconnecting the line from the ABS valve block and getting no flow, unless I misunderstand. The brake proportioner can't have any influence at that point in the system.
> 
> I think the 92 can blink trouble codes on the ABS light; the 93+ cars cannot. Should be in Bentley.


Yes, you are correct. I had disconnected the rear brake line that comes from the front (line in engine compartment that sends brake fluid to the rear). I was seeing the same amount of flow coming out of that as I was in the rear of the vehicle.

Status: I disconnected and reconnected all the abs connectors, then tried bleeding the rear again. I started to get more flow going back there. Bled it out till clear fluid was coming out of each in the rear. Brakes felt like they were working fine.

This is what bleeding the rears was like now:
After pumping the brake, then holding the brake down I turn ignition ON, open bleeder in the back and get about 4 to 5 inches of fluid into a clear bleed tube then it stops flowing so I shut the bleeder and then repeat the process making sure the pump isn't running too long so it doesn't burn up (<2 min. in 10 min. period). Had my son in the car holding the brake pedal down.


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## Vr6parker (Oct 9, 2014)

*New guy here need some advice!*

Alright so here's the deal. Friday I'm going to look at my first corrado(shots himself) but I'm coming from owning a 2008 mustang gt. big change there i know. But these are my dream cars and I was hoping you guys could give me tips on what to look for when I go check out the car and what a good price is if its in good condition. Plus the struggles I'm gonna deal with alot if I do actually buy this car. The link below is the one I'm taking a 5 HOUR drive to go check out so please every bit of advice I greatly appreciate! Thank you!!!





http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/4675411900.html


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

I may know the owner. Is the owners name John Redmon?

I would ask about the chains and headgasket since the car has over 100k miles on it. That's the big ticket and time consuming stuff. Looks as though the coolant and oil issues have been addressed with the car.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

Just heard from John and it is his car. The car should be solid, he takes great care of the cars he owns and I think this would have been his third Corrado and they all have been clean cars.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

Vr6parker said:


> I'm taking a 5 HOUR drive to go check out so please every bit of advice I greatly appreciate!


It's hard to drive 5 hours and not return with something, some emotion will set in. Know in your mind your make or break point regarding cost, condition, etc. 

I drove about 5 hours to go see mine. Before I went, I had them take photos of the underbody, etc. in addition, you'll want an honest answer on what electrical has been touched. Besides my radio, all my electrical was original. Avoid hack wiring jobs or at least know what you are buying.

Most rubber seals are NLA. Check the corrado parts for sale thread to get a general idea of what stuff like that costs.

Look underneath to see the condition of hardware. Did they replace hardware with new when doing upgrades, check for rounded hex heads, etc. does A/C work in all fan speeds? Check for any signs of leaks, bring a jack and get under there with a light. Oil pan gasket, transmission, Boots, power steering lines, etc. 

Run engine to find out what temp. the coolant goes up to when fans first kick on. Coolant temp. Is displayed on the cluster and oil temp can be viewed on the cluster by pressing the stalk on the right of the steering wheel. Basically, check that the cooling fan and FCM is functioning correctly.

The seller sounds like he will walk you through this stuff. Car looks good for the price.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Go with 5k cash and for anything that makes you the slightest bit unhappy put 100 back in your pocket. When you are done if the seller wants more, walk.


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

Correction, go with 5k cash put 1k in back pocket.. Then haggle


Sent from my iPhone 5 3/4 using Tapatalk


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

Just an update on my brakes. I got all the air out of the system and re-bled the brakes again. Confirmed that the rear brakes actually engage when I push the pedal, then took it out for a spin. The fresh fluid and Braided SS lines feel great.


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## German Juggernaut (Jan 26, 2005)

*Missing Parts*

So since the front bumper I picked up needed so much help (paint/surface was terrible, missing everything detachable, one bumper clip slot was missing) I decided to go the whole nine yards and get it done right. Long story short, I think it ended up costing more then a rebuilt trans with a LSD in it. Anyway, I'm still missing one or two more small things, and was hoping you guys could give me some direction. 

First thing I'm missing is the clips that hold the lip onto the car. I know there should be a way to just use washers and bolts, but I feel like something would be missing. I don't even remember what the clips look like, but the square surface area around where they slide in make me thing I need some OEM assistance. 

Second thing is the lower grill - I have one, but it's shattered beyond repair in 2 places. While I can probably rig it together to hold in place, with everything else being done right, it wouldn't feel right to put this back on as-is. Any tricks for better repair, or places (still active) I could buy a new one? Using the search, a ton of links to suppliers are pulled up, but all of them are either dead links, stores are out of business, or the product is no longer carried. 

As always, any and all advice is appreciated. Thanks all-


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## German Juggernaut (Jan 26, 2005)

After doing some searching in google, it looks like it's not a clip, but a bar. Doesn't look like I can replicate it easily - any suggestions if I can't find one? Here it is in this picture -


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

German Juggernaut said:


> After doing some searching in google, it looks like it's not a clip, but a bar. Doesn't look like I can replicate it easily - any suggestions if I can't find one? Here it is in this picture -


535 807 181
ETKA shows that this is still available - $97 + whatever dealer markup and tax.

There has to be a ton of these things laying around after part outs. I'd post a want ad in the classifieds.


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## German Juggernaut (Jan 26, 2005)

My local dealership said it is no longer in stock or available. I've had an ad posted in the classifieds for a little over a week, and reached out to at least 5 people parting out cars with no luck yet.


If I'm not able to acquire this thing, is it possible to connect the lip with just nuts/bolts and washers, or is that ill-advised?


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

It will rip off like mine did last week


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

German Juggernaut said:


> My local dealership said it is no longer in stock or available. I've had an ad posted in the classifieds for a little over a week, and reached out to at least 5 people parting out cars with no luck yet.
> 
> 
> If I'm not able to acquire this thing, is it possible to connect the lip with just nuts/bolts and washers, or is that ill-advised?


I have a couple of these if you want - I didn't realize you were looking (I even have the 5 special bolts). Mine has been off the car for at least 10 years with the OEM lip (50mm?) and the lip's stayed put all that time.


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## German Juggernaut (Jan 26, 2005)

theprf said:


> I have a couple of these if you want - I didn't realize you were looking (I even have the 5 special bolts). Mine has been off the car for at least 10 years with the OEM lip (50mm?) and the lip's stayed put all that time.


That would be great. I picked up the urethame lip from spoonfedtuning, but the bracket/bar I've been stuck on. I'll shoot you a PM-


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## Meert_VR6 (Nov 28, 2009)

*wire looms*

hi,

i have a question about wire looms.
are the looms from a corrado g60 and corrado slc from the early type the same? (except for the engine ofcourse)
can i buy wires from a g60 and fusebox to put in my slc? (like interior, dashboard, electric windows and electric seatbtls, cruise control, etc...) and will it be plug and play.

thanks!


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## austin028 (Oct 16, 2014)

*Corrado Exterior*

I have a 90 g60, are the doors and fenders compatible with 91 g60's?


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

Yes ^^ 93+ is when the doors and fenders changed to accomodate the "late style" interior.


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

austin028 said:


> I have a 90 g60, are the doors and fenders compatible with 91 g60's?


Yes, all G60 parts are compatible, and most all Corrado body parts are compatible with some minor modifications here and there between early and late style swaps. I.E. The grill tabs don't line up for late style grills in early style core supports (unless you're lucky and have one of the 16V ones that has both sets of slots) All body panels don't, however, look correct together; like a late style bumper with early style fenders, it looks way too wide (though strangely enough the early style bumper with late style fenders looks pretty good, IMO better than an entire late style front end)



1broknrado said:


> Yes ^^ 93+ is when the doors and fenders changed to accomodate the "late style" interior.


No... 93+ is when they changed the interior, they facelifted the body in mid(?) '92. There're '92 G60s that have the late style body panels, and ALL 92 VRs have the early style interior. In short, the interior was changed in '93 to accommodate the newer "more modern" body revampage that was done in '92.


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## austin028 (Oct 16, 2014)

awesome thanks guys, my baby was side swiped earlier this year and I just found the parts I'm looking for, will post pics of my rado back on the road!


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## Meert_VR6 (Nov 28, 2009)

Meert_VR6 said:


> hi,
> 
> i have a question about wire looms.
> are the looms from a corrado g60 and corrado slc from the early type the same? (except for the engine ofcourse)
> ...


anybody knows? its quite urgent.
thx


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

Meert_VR6 said:


> anybody knows? its quite urgent.
> thx


I can check this afternoon when I am front of ETKA.


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## Meert_VR6 (Nov 28, 2009)

capthowdy_1968 said:


> I can check this afternoon when I am front of ETKA.


would be much appreciated!


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## Danny 171 (Apr 20, 2014)

So I have a bone stock G60. Would I be able to run a BBM Stage 3 chip ok? If not would I need anything else? The only things the stage 2 kit comes with are the chip, a 3.5bar FPR, and an ISV reroute kit


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## VR-SICK RADO (Nov 17, 2010)

*alternator-generator type*

Hi guys, 

I need to replace my Alternator/Generator on my 92' SLC. I am the original owner, Florida bought car. I have seen a few types, 90 amp & 120 amp, also 6 poly groove pulley, & 7 poly groove pulley types. I'm not sure which one is correct for my Rado..


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

VR-SICK RADO said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I need to replace my Alternator/Generator on my 92' SLC. I am the original owner, Florida bought car. I have seen a few types, 90 amp & 120 amp, also 6 poly groove pulley, & 7 poly groove pulley types. I'm not sure which one is correct for my Rado..


All US Corrados came with Air Conditioning so the 120A alternator is correct. The same alternator is used on VR6 Passats, MkIII, and so on.
http://www.germanautoparts.com/productdisplay/27757


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

Meert_VR6 said:


> hi,
> 
> i have a question about wire looms.
> are the looms from a corrado g60 and corrado slc from the early type the same? (except for the engine ofcourse)
> ...


That's quite a question. The answer is that SOME of the wiring harnesses are the same in all Corrados. Lights, power seatbelts, mirrors, wipers, probably some others. 

Interior wiring harnesses like power windows, radio, heater changed when the interior was updated in the middle of the '93 model year. So 1992 SLC heater is the same as 1990 G60 heater. Except some interior wiring stayed the same even in the updated interior, like the fog light switch & rear defroster switch harnesses. And some changed even though nothing says that they changed, like heated seats.

Engine wiring changed with the engine of course. 

I don't have access to the EKTA catalog that lists which harness is used by year. That would answer all questions.


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## German Juggernaut (Jan 26, 2005)

Glue for the bumper piece worked great, but I ran into another part I should probably replace...

I think they are called alignment brackets or bumper clips... the black plastic pieces on either side of the bumper that are mounted under the fenders... when the bumper slides it, the two circular pieces catch the inside of either side of the bumper and it holds the sides in place. 

So one of mine has a shattered disc, and the other has the tabs in the back destroyed. Called local VW shop, it's out of stock (surprising). Anyone have any idea where I could get new/aftermarket ones, or is the classifieds my best bet? I haven't had much luck there lately with other things, so I figured perhaps you all would have a better suggestion. 

Cheers :beer:


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## ml1986 (Apr 27, 2012)

Has anyone orderd from vintage rubber?

http://www.vintagerubber.com/corrado-2.aspx

I need the rear hatch seal, but they dont answere my emails.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Haven't bought from them but they're local and on my to do list along with a new throttle body idle air screw from BBM. They're a legit business but like many businesses probably run lean and with just a few employees. It's notoriously expensive to do business in Calif. If you want the rear hatch seal order it. If you have any issues LMK and I'll give you a hand with shipping.

I know SNS wont talk to you via email until you actually buy a chip from them. I spoke to Bilal in UK and he said there's no way to answer all the emails he gets about info that's already on his website. Shipping to Norway (US Mail) should run no more than $20-$30 US. If you have any issues remember you're paying with payPal so there wont be any issues.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

*Why doesn't New OE Hardware include the washer?*

All Set :thumbup:


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## DIEGOENUSA (Mar 17, 2003)

*Bbs rs 16x7 et23 Porsche fitment on a 92 slc*

Bbs rs 16x7 et23 Porsche fitment on a 92 slc

Front and rear wheels are the same width. What would be the right thickness for the 5x130 adapters? I tried using the online calculators but I'm not sure I understand the results. I know ecs offers 25mm and 30mm 5x130 adapters that could work on our cars. 

Thanks in advance for your help.


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## TxJet98 (Jun 29, 2012)

Those won't fit on a Corrado without some extensive fender rolling. With ET 23, youre already going to be poking the front just slightly. Adapters (even 15mm) would make your offset 23-15=8... an ET 8 with a 7" wheel just isn't going to fit.


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## DIEGOENUSA (Mar 17, 2003)

Is the problem gonna be in the front only? Ecs says that the 15mm adapter won't work on corrados but they couldn't tell me why?


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## TxJet98 (Jun 29, 2012)

Front will definitely be a problem... unless you want to severely roll and pull your fenders. Rears could work, but honestly you're best just getting some wheels with the correct offset.


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## DIEGOENUSA (Mar 17, 2003)

Thanks for your help.


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## chrism1 (Sep 21, 2014)

Ok so I took a stab at changing my speedo cable in my 90 g60 and had to balk mid way. The cluster was easy to get out and since the cable snapped I was able to pull it through the fire wall pretty easy. I got stuck when I was trying to take the nut off the top of the trans. It came off but it was still attached to a long cylinder and the nut wouldn't come off. I had to put it back together after getting all greasy, cursing and screaming a bit. I don't have a Bentley but it seemed pretty straight forward. Any one knows if this piece will slide out or am I going to have to pay a mechanic to break that nut loose. What was that piece any way? Thanks in advance for the help!


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## chrism1 (Sep 21, 2014)

anyone?


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

The long black plastic part on/in the transmission will unbolt from the speedo cable, you just need two wrenches. You can do it in the car out of the car.


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## VR-SICK RADO (Nov 17, 2010)

*Front fuel line dripping fuel above alternator -need hoses*

Hey guys, I have a 92 SLC, and one of the fuel lines is dripping fuel at the connection point to the fuel rail, over the serpentine belt tensioner. Does anyone know where I can get fuel lines for both of the ones in that area? Also how difficult is it to replace them? Any Vortex threads, or videos? I'm any OK Home mechanic, and have done a few things to my car myself, fix both door handle strikers, both window regulators, change fuel pump, brakes, rotors, etc.
Thx in advance :beer:


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

VR-SICK RADO said:


> Hey guys, I have a 92 SLC, and one of the fuel lines is dripping fuel at the connection point to the fuel rail, over the serpentine belt tensioner. Does anyone know where I can get fuel lines for both of the ones in that area? Also how difficult is it to replace them? Any Vortex threads, or videos? I'm any OK Home mechanic, and have done a few things to my car myself, fix both door handle strikers, both window regulators, change fuel pump, brakes, rotors, etc.


You can try reclamping. I suggest this kind of clamp (second one down):
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Hardware/Hose clamps/Hose+clamps

When that doesn't work the hoses are still available from VW. They are used on most all AAA VR6 cars, Corrados, Jettas, Passats, etc. Each hose is about $85. I would replace both, cheap insurance against a gas fire under the hood. The clamps on the "other" side are Oettiker one-time use clamps though I have used clamps like on the German Auto Parts page linked above with good results.

Before breaking the connections Bentley suggests pulling the fuel pump relay and running the car until it quits to dump the pressure in the fuel lines. If you don't do this you are going to get a shower of fuel. Have a rag handy anyway.


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## VR-SICK RADO (Nov 17, 2010)

Cool, Thx :beer:


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

So I have a new problem that just started. Occasionally on start, my G60 runs real rough almost like misfiring. There is definite power lacking, and white smoke out the tail pipe on acceleration. It doesn't happen often, and I thought initially that it was temperature related, as the first occurrence was when it got to -8 Fahrenheit. Today though, it did it again and it was around 50 Fahrenheit. Even more puzzling is that after a few minutes of running, the engines smooth's out and stabilizes, and all the power returns. Any thoughts, or point is the right direction would be helpful. 

I have replaced many things in the last year, among them the Blue CTS, the dist. cap rotor, and wires. less than a year on the spark plugs, and various vacuum lines.

Thanks All.


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## dubberscrubber (Feb 2, 2008)

I'm looking for the best way to tap into a 12v ignition source on my 92 SLC. Preferably one that holds constant power throughout the ignition sequence. Do I have any other options other than finding a wire directly to the ignition switch? Not a big wiring expert so please tread lightly haha. This is pretty much the last step to this air ride install that I have left.

Thanks in advance.:beer:


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

If anyone has any idea about where I could start looking to fix my problem I mentioned, I would appreciate it. This is my daily, and my schedule makes it hard to work in car fix time, so the sooner the better, thanks.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

ArchAngel4 said:


> If anyone has any idea about where I could start looking to fix my problem I mentioned, I would appreciate it. This is my daily, and my schedule makes it hard to work in car fix time, so the sooner the better, thanks.


Get some of that stuff that looks for exhaust gas in the coolant and see if you have an imminent head gasket failure?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

ArchAngel4 said:


> If anyone has any idea about where I could start looking to fix my problem I mentioned, I would appreciate it. This is my daily, and my schedule makes it hard to work in car fix time, so the sooner the better, thanks.


The first thing I would determine is if it's an open or closed loop issue. Upon startup, whether it's -8 or 50, the CTS is running the show. As the engine warms up it's influence is revoked. At 140 it's cold start enrichment comes to an end. It's still in the mix, however, acceleration enrichment, after-start enrichment, but not as influential. 

The sensor is only half of the equation these days in regards to the car's age. Verify the wires are still good. I would just unplug it and check for improvement. You want to unplug it BEFORE startup. That will result in the car running off an assigned map for a warm engine. If you do it while it's running it'll put it into limp mode with no firing point adjustments, and that sucks. 

The o2 sensor would be my next check. Again, just unplug it and check for improvement. It starts sending corrections within 30 seconds of startup. 

Most Digi sensors, without a signal or an impossible one, will be replaced by stored maps. The exception being the idle/WOT switch, which sends a SOL signal to the ECU when it craps out. 

A bad knock sensor will shut the injectors down at 1Bar. There's no way to test it on a G60, though. I've replaced mine a few times, but because the insulation started cracking, nothing performance wise. 

The CoPot has influence over the entire map. It's signal is replaced by a stored map, so unplug it and check for improvement. It'll put the air temp at over 100 by doing so, so it shouldn't run rich. 

Honestly, all this stuff is in the FAQ section. Some really, really smart people have tackled this problem in the past. I don't care either way, but I need some numbers to reference. Short of that I'm just repeating what others have said. Sometimes all I have to do is show mine a multimeter and it gets scared and fixes itself. Not before peeing its pants in the form of a coolant leak, however.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Thanks mateok, I don't know if anyone else has had this problem, but the FAQ page in the sticky on the main forums page is down. It will not open for me. the only pages that for me in that sticky thread, are the DIY page, and the Wheel size page. The links/page for the others seem to be broken. 

I will run those checks on the sensors, although the BCTS sensor is very new, less than a year old. what's weird is the first time it ran rough at higher temperatures, than well below zero outside, it came on the heels of the battery being mysteriously eaten up. The battery was less than a year old as well, and all of a sudden, it started dying, and the car wouldn't start. I charged it up, and I am still waiting to see if it repeats the problem. 
Thanks again for the help and advice.


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## GTindie (Jun 12, 2002)

*E-Codes*

Is the black plastic housing and reflector the same for G60 and VR6?

On the E-Codes I bought, the reflector is broken from the black plastic housing on one so I cannot use the leveling. I have brand new lenses, bezels, clips and functioning leveling motors hooked up to a rheostat switch. Hoping to replace just the housing and reflectors. 

TIA


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Hello guys , pretty bummed out about this one. 

Today while I was driving, my steering column started to go up and down.
It doesn't lock any more with the height lever adjuster (going to look at it tomorrow morning). I got home and looked at my Bentley manual and found this










I'm screwed right?


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

blackslcchild said:


> Hello guys , pretty bummed out about this one.
> 
> Today while I was driving, my steering column started to go up and down.
> It doesn't lock any more with the height lever adjuster (going to look at it tomorrow morning). I got home and looked at my Bentley manual and found this
> ...


You aren't screwed. I had the same thing happen 10-12 years ago, a roll pin that locks the column in place had backed out while I was driving I-85 South thru Atlanta heading to Florida. I pulled over pulled the steering column cover, tapped it back in and then after arriving in Florida I made it more permanent.Start by pulling the steering column cover and then have a look see.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Just woke up, wheeew! That's a relief, I'm going to look at it right now. Thanks my man  .


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Stupid . 













All good now.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

I bet that I tapped it back in and then staked it(tap the edge of the aluminum hole so that it pinches the pin in) and then applied jb weld over it.


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## Fast485 (Dec 7, 2014)

*92 Corrado G60 resurrection*

Yo!! New to the site... Came across this 92 Corrado G60 supercharger... Literally been sitting in grandmas barn for 15 yrs... So I was wondering, sell? Reassurect, or part out?? Was running when put away. I've gone as far as dragging her out, changing oil, cleaning fuel tank, pulling pluggs, lubeing cylinders... About to turn it over... Starter has made a few different sounds, now just clicks. Put wrench on crank and it's not seized, but only turns like 30deg... Locked up
But not seized.. Where to go from here?? Push it outa garage now or keep tearing her down to peices?? 
To be honest, I like to think I'm mechanically inclined but always been a motorcycle guy, never built a car... 
Am I over my head and give up, or keep pushing forward?? I can do the work, just need help and direction...


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Clicking is the sound from a dead dead battery with jumper cables. Get a good battery to run it off of, charge it and then it will start.


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## Fast485 (Dec 7, 2014)

I know this is the rookie forum but cmon man!! I've ruled out the battery... Shouldn't I be able to turn it over by hand?? I made special mention of this. What lockes up on these cars is what I'm asking, and is it worth fixing?? Nightmare or good project??


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

If its in neutral and won't turn over by hand then you have issues with it having been sitting for a long period of time it could be any number of items. Corrados in general are rough cars to deal with unless you have a passion for them. Sell it as is and move on if you don't have passion for the car.


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## Jraddo90 (Nov 30, 2014)

*G60 supercharger main shaft!! HELP!!!!*

So I recently bought a 1990 VW Corrado G60 and am a newbie with little to no experience but have always loved vdubs and audi's, So you can imagine how excited I was to finally own one of my own especially a Corrado, but after driving her for about a month now she is down and out and I am in need of some expert advice, so this is what has happend to my beloved G60 the bolt that holds the supercharger pulley on, broke off inside the main shaft, and the pulley as well as the key have been eaten alive so here are my questions, would it be best to buy a new main shaft and take the supercharger apart and replace it along with a new pulley and key. And how difficult this would be, if it is even possible to take the supercharger apart and replace only the main shaft and then put it back together. Or if I should just take the supercharger out, drill the broken bolt out, re-tap the threads and put a new pulley and key on? Any information and help would greatly be appreciated, as i desperately want to get my baby back on the road. Thank You guys in advance


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Fast485 said:


> I know this is the rookie forum but cmon man!! I've ruled out the battery... Shouldn't I be able to turn it over by hand?? I made special mention of this. What lockes up on these cars is what I'm asking, and is it worth fixing?? Nightmare or good project??


Rookie forum? Yes, it should spin all the way around. In both directions, for that matter - have you tried counter-clockwise? What locks 'em up? Rust, stuck valve, broken ring, bent connecting rod, seized distributor, etc. 15 years in a barn and it could be anything. 

There's nothing special about that engine. Remove the G60 and its an 8V Rabbit. Take the cam out and try again.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

mateok said:


> Rookie forum? Yes, it should spin all the way around. In both directions, for that matter - have you tried counter-clockwise? What locks 'em up? Rust, stuck valve, broken ring, bent connecting rod, seized distributor, etc. 15 years in a barn and it could be anything.
> 
> There's nothing special about that engine. Remove the G60 and its an 8V Rabbit. Take the cam out and try again.


My computer's battery died right after I replied last night, hence Well that g60 charger is special and that very well could have a dry rotted timing belt and it is broken and the charger is locked up and about to break the diaplacer. 

The engine itself isn't an interference motor so its very concerning that it won't rotate. 

This the beginning of a revival project that will require a good amount of money (charger rebuilds are expensive) and a lot of time. Hence the passion question.


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## Fast485 (Dec 7, 2014)

Rookie thread?? Means I'm the rookie asking you, the experts... Okay, thanks for the direction... I guess I'll just start taking things apart and check anything that should spin individually. I'm confused on why it won't spin also, the oil looked great, wasn't sitting in rain, and was running when put away. That's why I am asking, what is the most likely cause of seizure.. From all I've heard, it's prolly the SC... And like I said, it does spin a small amount, so NOT 100% seized...


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

Fast485 said:


> Rookie thread?? Means I'm the rookie asking you, the experts... Okay, thanks for the direction... I guess I'll just start taking things apart and check anything that should spin individually. I'm confused on why it won't spin also, the oil looked great, wasn't sitting in rain, and was running when put away. That's why I am asking, what is the most likely cause of seizure.. From all I've heard, it's prolly the SC... And like I said, it does spin a small amount, so NOT 100% seized...


You should be able to take the serpentine belt off to separate the charger & the other stuff, except the PS pump (or the waterpump?), from the engine. Turn everything by hand. Find out what's causing trouble. Call Kompressor Kanada when it's the charger & get a quote . You can drive it without the charger, it's just a fancy looking 1985 rabbit then.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

theprf said:


> You should be able to take the serpentine belt off to separate the charger & the other stuff, except the PS pump (or the waterpump?), from the engine. Turn everything by hand. Find out what's causing trouble. Call Kompressor Kanada when it's the charger & get a quote . You can drive it without the charger, it's just a fancy looking 1985 rabbit then.


That's a good call on taking the belt off. That'll eliminate the accessories. Is KK back in business? Last I heard homie went awol about a decade ago.

OP, use a standard caulking gun to remove the dampener/tensioner.


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## Fast485 (Dec 7, 2014)

Okay, good plan, thanks for advice as that is what I need. I'll tear into it tonight, but I also wonder if it could be the starter/cylinoid engaged and seized, seem likely? We will see.. Any other advice/direction greatly appreciated!! Thanks!!


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

mateok said:


> Is KK back in business?


Ouch, I didn't realize they were gone... I sold my G60 over 20 years ago.


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## ml1986 (Apr 27, 2012)

Guys, need some new glasses for my mirrors. Are DDI glasses any good?


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

I have the DDI glass. Good product.


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## Fast485 (Dec 7, 2014)

Alrighty experts!! Got all the pulleys separated and starter out... All spin freely except the crank... I know, kinda the most important pully... So what now, pull valve cover, then head?? Maybe oil pan first.. I do have a passion for this car and love it's uniqueness and style, I want this car going... It maybe a $4,000 car but I don't mind putting six in it... Just need help from the experts on where to go next... Thanks...


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## ml1986 (Apr 27, 2012)

Can I use a VR6 parcel shelf in my G60?


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

Fast485 said:


> Alrighty experts!! Got all the pulleys separated and starter out... All spin freely except the crank... I know, kinda the most important pully... So what now, pull valve cover, then head?? Maybe oil pan first.. I do have a passion for this car and love it's uniqueness and style, I want this car going... It maybe a $4,000 car but I don't mind putting six in it... Just need help from the experts on where to go next... Thanks...


Valve cover sounds like a good idea, then the spark plugs. You can get a video borescope & look inside the plug holes. Search on youtube for "vr6 cylinder tour" and you can find borescope video of a VR6 engine that was sold to me as a running engine - then I found out it was frozen from rust in the cylinders.

If that's what you find you're looking at major engine work. Since your charger spins nicely you could find a running PG & put that in.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

ml1986 said:


> Can I use a VR6 parcel shelf in my G60?


They are the same.


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

I'd pull the plugs and spray some lubricant in the cylinder walls before you tear all that down. You never know. You might free something up.


Sent from my iPhone 5 3/4 using Tapatalk


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## Fast485 (Dec 7, 2014)

I've had the plugs out and lubed the cylenders on initial go over. Best I could see, the pistons looked fine and the plugs as well. I guess now I'll pull the timing chain to separate the top and bottom ends and go from there, if tip end spins, pull the oil pan and look in there next... Keep suggestions coming guys!! Thanks!!


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## Fast485 (Dec 7, 2014)

(Top) end, sorry,,,, and thumbs up to the standard cocking gun trick!!


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## BugAudi (Jul 22, 2014)

Doing a timing refresh and this happened. I'm at TDC.. But my camshafts are off







No I never drove it like this I just messed it up myself. Anyways. Is this fixed by removing camshaft and replacing it correctly? Then I suppose I'd spin it around again and make sure its okay?


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Just crank the pulley. Put the camshaft tool.


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

Retime the oil pump drive gear (intermediate shaft) to the cams and set tdc on the bottom end. 


Sent from my iPhone 5 3/4 using Tapatalk


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

You should have used this:


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## BugAudi (Jul 22, 2014)

Yeah I was planning on using the tool but I wasn't to that step yet when I jumped a tooth. My mistake was taking off the tensioner before placing the engine at tdc. So I just need to reset all if the timing?


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

From HavokRuels pic, you can see that your 1-3-5 cam needs to be rotated counterclockwise about 30 degrees from your picture...but who knows what else moved around. Don't assume the other cam didn't skip a tooth either...so unfortunately Yes, you need to make sure everthing is set correctly. You get one shot at it :thumbup:

If you haven't already, I recommend reading this a few times over before continuing...
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1264409

Just take your time :beer:


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

BugAudi said:


> My mistake was taking off the tensioner before placing the engine at tdc.


Actually you need that tool in place before you take the tensioner off or it's likely to jump a tooth even at TDC. Then you have to make sure the upper chain doesn't fall down off the idler and jump a tooth. And it's an interference engine, so, you get one shot at it.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I was about to die when I did this to my corrado.....I literally cried. 

But now, I just smile and scoff at the car every time I check under the hood.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

Taking the Corrado Hood off for a dent repair and respray. What's the best way considering fitting after reinstallation?
1. Remove only the hood (hood brackets remain bolted to body).
2. Remove hood & brackets as an assembly from the body.

Any other advice?...looks to be at least a 2 person job.
Thanks :thumbup:

59 more posts till this thread hits 10,000


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

JDCorrado said:


> Taking the Corrado Hood off for a dent repair and respray. What's the best way considering fitting after reinstallation?
> 1. Remove only the hood (hood brackets remain bolted to body).
> 2. Remove hood & brackets as an assembly from the body.
> 
> ...


I took the hood off the hinges and left the hinges on the car. When you put it back on, the front hinge bolt adjusts the height of the back of the hood. It's counter-intuitive, push the front of the car-side hinge down to raise the back of the hood. The height of the front of the hood is adjusted up-down by the two rubber stops/bumpers and the two hood pins. Hood fore-and-aft is adjusted with the hood to hinge bolts. Supposedly there's no side-to-side adjustment, you can shift the hood pins a little bit left-right and fore-aft to get it nice at the front. If you are missing the black triangles on the radiator support it's almost impossible to get it right. These are still available, PN 535 823 599 for about $6 each. Side-to-side is supposed to be adjusted by moving the fenders; I found this to be completely ineffective. I spent a lot of time getting the hood reasonably adjusted on my purple '93, having it crooked just bugged me to no end.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

JDCorrado said:


> Taking the Corrado Hood off for a dent repair and respray. What's the best way considering fitting after reinstallation?
> 1. Remove only the hood (hood brackets remain bolted to body).
> 2. Remove hood & brackets as an assembly from the body.
> 
> ...



Make sure hood is in perfect adjustment before removing.
Take sharp scribe or mechanics pick and carefully scribe light line around bolt heads on hinge to hood
remove bolts on hinge to hood ( with a person on each side of course and one hand each on edge of hood facing windshield)
remove and repeat procedures on re-install
use those scribed marks to line up the bolt heads exactly where they were. You should not have to adjust anything further


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## SLC-GTI-A3 (Feb 9, 2010)

I just started having a problem with my '93. Blowing fuses and my windows don't work, and the car also unlocks itself 15-20 seconds after I lock it. I was told to check the wiring in the door jamb to see if any worn wires had been causing a short. Everything I saw looked good, even the fabric wrap was still in good shape. Someone mentioned unplugging the harness for wiring in the door, but I'm not sure where im supposed to unplug it. I could be wrong, but it didn't look like wiring was the problem. I was also told it could be the Micro Switch or the Central Locking Pump causing this problem. I'm just trying to figure out what to do next...?

Skill Level is pretty low, but I'm always willing to follow instructions and take a look to see if I can find any of the issues people have mentioned.


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## kno1noz (Mar 14, 2009)

*late 92 slc fan switch connector*

Ive searched unsuccessful for a couple days here and everywhere... does anyone know where to get a replacement fan switch connector or have any ideas for a solid way to repair it? I want to repair it to last not a quick fix. For clarification the 3-pin fan switch near top of the radiator on the driver side... not the ac switch. Mine has partially disintegrated and is about to crumble to pieces and has a loose connection on the contacts.

I have a late 92 slc 

Thanks in advance


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

kno1noz said:


> Ive searched unsuccessful for a couple days here and everywhere... does anyone know where to get a replacement fan switch connector or have any ideas for a solid way to repair it? I want to repair it to last not a quick fix. For clarification the 3-pin fan switch near top of the radiator on the driver side... not the ac switch. Mine has partially disintegrated and is about to crumble to pieces and has a loose connection on the contacts.
> 
> I have a late 92 slc
> 
> Thanks in advance


Ask your VW dealer for 893 906 231 which is the white plastic terminal housing. About $10. Clean up the contacts from your old housing and put them into the new housing.
If you want to splurge on a new rubber boot, too, it's 867 972 525B.


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## kno1noz (Mar 14, 2009)

theprf said:


> Ask your VW dealer for 893 906 231 which is the white plastic terminal housing. About $10. Clean up the contacts from your old housing and put them into the new housing.
> If you want to splurge on a new rubber boot, too, it's 867 972 525B.


Wow! Thanks for the response. Nearest dealer is wel over an hour away and the parts guy acted like why would I even want to fix a car from 1992 and had no clue what a corrado is and I dont believehe even tried to help. With the p/n should be easy now. I want to replace the contacts too, heavily corroded from a leak prior to me taking possession many years ago. Is there a p/n for this style? With the new engine I dont want to take any chances.:thumbup:


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

kno1noz said:


> Wow! Thanks for the response. Nearest dealer is wel over an hour away and the parts guy acted like why would I even want to fix a car from 1992 and had no clue what a corrado is and I dont believehe even tried to help. With the p/n should be easy now. I want to replace the contacts too, heavily corroded from a leak prior to me taking possession many years ago. Is there a p/n for this style? With the new engine I dont want to take any chances.:thumbup:


The dealers here aren't very interested and most parts are NLA anyway. That part number is shown as available from ECS tuning who will ship it to your door.
You can clean the contacts with a brass wire brush then squeeze them slightly with pliers for a tight fit and they'll be fine. If you want to replace they look like standard 1/4 female QC connectors to me which should be available most anywhere.


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## kno1noz (Mar 14, 2009)

Thanks for the help and advice. Really appreciate it. Gonne get this fixed asap.:thumbup:


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## 65kcode (Dec 23, 2014)

*Hi, this is my first post,*

Hi everyone 

I have been reading lots of great information, helping build one G60 out of the two I have. One I bought years ago from an insurance yard, it only has 4100 miles on it, the other one is the body I am transferring everything into. 

The question I have is about the transmission. When I was cleaning it up and getting to install it, I noticed a small piece broken off it. I dont think I need that piece on there for anything, but I thought I betterI ask you guys first. I attached two photos one of the broken piece and one of the piece on a picture I took from the net. 

The broken piece is that circular tab at the bottom. There is a tab on the front also, it looks like something that was used by the factory for assembly use? 


thank you for all the help, Great site
Ivan


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

The circular tab on the back of the differential case is a lifting point.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Hello guys, merry Christmas!

I would like to install this into my 92 slc.



















What would I need in order for this to be functional?

Thanks!


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Santa hooked you up.:thumbup:
You'll need to do some tiny modifications to that gauge pod in order to make it fit properly. You also need an oil pressure sender installed on the engine to send a signal. Do you have its wiring harness pigtail? 

Whoever was responsible for the creating the cubby gauge wiring diagrams in the Bentley pulled a fast one in order to cut out early. From '90 to '94 - they're all the same. The '93+ diagrams show a single gauge component, but no reference to the 4-pin connector or the correct wire colors. Nonetheless, it's still useful as a circuit guide. 

You'll need to make a harness if you don't have one. This thread has good info. 
http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?4073232-Oil-Volt-gauge-wiring-fitment


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Merry Christmas mateok! I really appreciate every single feedback you've given me! Thank you


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## Torsten (Jan 29, 2006)

Perfect, that also what i need to know.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Guys, has anyone else had problems with the oil pressure switches/sensors?

I've gone through 2 of the blue .3 bar, got a replacement today.

I've torqued them to 18 pounds as stated on the Bentley lol.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

blackslcchild said:


> Guys, has anyone else had problems with the oil pressure switches/sensors?
> 
> I've gone through 2 of the blue .3 bar, got a replacement today.
> 
> I've torqued them to 18 pounds as stated on the Bentley lol.


You're putting a new copper washer on? Or annealing the old copper washer? Either is OK, you really have to do one or the other.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

theprf said:


> You're putting a new copper washer on? Or annealing the old copper washer? Either is OK, you really have to do one or the other.


They've both came with new washers, not sure that they are copper though. Makes a difference, right?


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## Wompa (Oct 30, 2009)

I have a new coolant bottle installed.

Often when I restart the car the coolant level light will start blinking, and I know there isnt a low level...

What is the problem? Is the prongs in the bottle faulty or the wiring? I can remove the wiring and bridge it and the light will start... so how to I trouble shoot it?


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Hi Wompa, Happy New Year!

If you still have the old coolant bottle install it and see if it corrects itself. Sounds like the sensor in the new bottle is bad.


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## Wompa (Oct 30, 2009)

petethepug said:


> Hi Wompa, Happy New Year!
> 
> If you still have the old coolant bottle install it and see if it corrects itself. Sounds like the sensor in the new bottle is bad.



Hey man! Happy new! The year goes so fast... 

I will try that... I would hope that it wasnt the new bottle but I will start that way and work my way to the problem!


CHEERS!

(Hope you are enjoying you weather... here it is about -10C and snow... :beer: )


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## J Sir Rocco (Mar 18, 2013)

*Corrado engine swap*

I have a 1992 Corrado used to be G'60...however I myself (stating my skill level)..swapped the 1.8 out and installed a 2.0 16v.....the engine and trans are in the car,,however having some struggle with not knowing how to connect the front water port that has the temperature sensors as the 16v engines intake manifold wraps over top of head and the 1.8 engine did not...does anybody know what Im talking about??


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

J Sir Rocco said:


> I have a 1992 Corrado used to be G'60...however I myself (stating my skill level)..swapped the 1.8 out and installed a 2.0 16v.....the engine and trans are in the car,,however having some struggle with not knowing how to connect the front water port that has the temperature sensors as the 16v engines intake manifold wraps over top of head and the 1.8 engine did not...does anybody know what Im talking about??


Maybe this site has the coolant flange you need: http://rpm-tuning.de/en/g-lader/16vg60-parts.htm


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

J Sir Rocco said:


> I have a 1992 Corrado used to be G'60...however I myself (stating my skill level)..swapped the 1.8 out and installed a 2.0 16v.....the engine and trans are in the car,,however having some struggle with not knowing how to connect the front water port that has the temperature sensors as the 16v engines intake manifold wraps over top of head and the 1.8 engine did not...does anybody know what Im talking about??


Poke around in James posts. You'll find what you need



dogger said:


> ABA alternator bracket installed and ready for VR 120 amp alternator and G60 A/C compressor. Took a little modification to fit with PS bracket.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## blue72beetle (Dec 15, 2003)

Dumb noob question....
What are E-codes and why does everyone want them?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

E (european) - codes are headlights that came equipped on said cars. The U.S. got what's referred to as NA headlights. The later are terribly weak, cheaply constructed, and have a horribly pathetic beam pattern. A relayed set of e-codes installed will greatly increase the light output, while directing it more efficiently. 

They are, however, illegal in the U.S. I actually had a cop notice the E on my lens' once and inquire. That was back in the 90's before HID's, though. Who cares anymore with modern lighting technology. E-codes are as bad as the NA lights by today's standards.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

E-Codes = The European headlights for the Corrado that provide improved lighting over the stock North American headlights. They also look better.

I recently read on Vortex that the G60 Ecodes are about 1/4" smaller in depth...so they would not be exactly flush on a VR6 model but would fasten the same. Ecodes require a different harness in a North American Car as well.

A 'like new' set of E-Codes goes for about $500 and I've seen some ask for up to $750 for a NIB set. I've seen Used sets go as low as $240.

From google:









Some like to modify them with smoke effect or by adding yellow french bulb covers like the pic below from Google/Eurotuner:









I'm staying with my NA Headlights since they will be the Unicorn of the future :laugh:









Those with E-Codes, please add to or correct anything :thumbup:


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I have G60 e-codes in a 92 slc.
Don't bother me none.










Also, they come with motorized adjusters so you can adjust the various settings while in the cockpit


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## blue72beetle (Dec 15, 2003)

Awesome, thanks guys. :thumbup:


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

JDCorrado said:


> I'm staying with my NA Headlights since they will be the Unicorn of the future :laugh:


That Unicode will only be seen during the day.

The g60 lights are recessed on the vr6 car and the vr6 lights bulge on a g60 car.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Guys, today I was driving back to my house and my car completely shut down. Driving normally and all of a sudden just shuts down, like if you were to stall the engine or something. Happened a couple times as I tried to go back home. The oil temp was 180 and the coolant temp was above 160. 
No codes from the ecu. 


I'm kinda scared to drive it now but, I manage to come home without an issue after this incident.

Is this a common problem or?


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## RILEY UK (Nov 27, 2004)

G60ING said:


> The g60 lights are recessed on the vr6 car and the vr6 lights bulge on a g60 car.


Unless of course you have a genuine late bodied G60, I should stop saying this on the U.S forums eace:


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

blackslcchild said:


> Guys, today I was driving back to my house and my car completely shut down. Driving normally and all of a sudden just shuts down, like if you were to stall the engine or something. Happened a couple times as I tried to go back home. The oil temp was 180 and the coolant temp was above 160.
> No codes from the ecu.
> 
> 
> ...


Original ignition?? Or has it been replaced? It could be a bad ignition switch.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

jaweber said:


> Original ignition?? Or has it been replaced? It could be a bad ignition switch.


I swapped it out already, I've been having some bad vibrations on the freeway that made the steering wheel adjustable pin push out. I think it might be it though, I'm going to check it out.

Car starts every time though.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

blackslcchild said:


> I swapped it out already, I've been having some bad vibrations on the freeway that made the steering wheel adjustable pin push out. I think it might be it though, I'm going to check it out.
> 
> Car starts every time though.


Could also be the main ECU relay. Gets hot and disconnects. I can't remember the number on the relay, it's on the forum somewhere.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Ecu relay is #109


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Thanks guys, after fooling around with some connectors and relays, I "scanned" the ecu for stored cel codes while the car was on and 2111 popped up.

A buddy of mine was also mentioning this but I told him I've already replaced it (lol, the one behind the oil cooler not the one next to the oil housing)

Engine speed sensors, aka crank sensor.

I think It might be it, going to replace it and see what happens. 

Thanks everyone


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

blackslcchild said:


> Thanks guys, after fooling around with some connectors and relays, I "scanned" the ecu for stored cel codes while the car was on and 2111 popped up.
> 
> A buddy of mine was also mentioning this but I told him I've already replaced it (lol, the one behind the oil cooler not the one next to the oil housing)
> 
> ...


If you get that code, clear the codes with the engine running and then immediately recheck. The OBD1 ECU is really dumb and records that code if you ever check codes with the engine off. IMO this really sounds like an ignition switch or ECU relay; if the crank pos. sensor was bad you'd never get it running.


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

Crank sensors get hot and stop working out here. Gotta remember we live in the desert. I get mercedes in all the time for random no starts and stalls because of them.

The harness on my car was bad and used to do the same crap. Shut down, no power, misfire.. You name it it did it. One more reason I went obd2


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

theprf said:


> If you get that code, clear the codes with the engine running and then immediately recheck. The OBD1 ECU is really dumb and records that code if you ever check codes with the engine off. IMO this really sounds like an ignition switch or ECU relay; if the crank pos. sensor was bad you'd never get it running.



Yeah, I checked several times and cleared them.
Same think 2111. 
I'm just going to swap in a new one.



Dimmu said:


> Crank sensors get hot and stop working out here. Gotta remember we live in the desert. I get mercedes in all the time for random no starts and stalls because of them.
> 
> The harness on my car was bad and used to do the same crap. Shut down, no power, misfire.. You name it it did it. One more reason I went obd2
> 
> ...



Thanks man, you were the first one to tell me about the crank sensor .

By the way, it looks like it's the original from the factory.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Update guys:
Bought the new speed crank sensor. Before installing it, I wanted to see if the car started....no dice!

So I went ahead and swapped it, success!
Car starts and runs smooth as before.
Stupid sensor almost got my baby sister and I killed on the road......️










Looks like it's missing a piece from the contact.


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

Boom


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

My man.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

Sweet. Out here we get 10 days a year when it's over 85 degrees - I forget sometimes the desert is a little different. 
We get this instead:


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## VR-SICK RADO (Nov 17, 2010)

*Clutch pedal stays in, after i press it to start car or engage a gear, please help =d*

I have a 92 SLC 5 speed, only mods are a P-Flow, Coil overs, and Aftermarket rims. I am the original owner, and driver her daily 12 miles round trip to work and back. She is parked on the weekends, and has 178,000 miles. As stated above, I went to start my car, and depressed the clutch pedal, I noticed no pressure on the pedal and it stayed depressed. I had to reach down and pull the pedal back up with my hand. Has anyone had this issue before and know of a DIY-thread. I am an OK home mechanic with a factory shop manual. I have fixed many things things on the car like window regulators, door handles, fuel pump, tune-up stuff (plugs-wires-distributor-etc). Any help would be great and all comments are welcome.
Thanks,
:beer:


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

Mine did that after a year of not driving it.. Bleed the clutch,


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

It is the clutch slave or master cylinder. Probably the slave cylinder.


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## VR-SICK RADO (Nov 17, 2010)

Dimmu said:


> Mine did that after a year of not driving it.. Bleed the clutch,
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone 5 3/4 using Tapatalk[/QU
> ...


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

Bleeding the clutch is pretty easy - ever bleed brakes? Same deal.
1) top off brake master cylinder with DOT4 fluid. the clutch takes its fluid from here.
2) find an assistant.
3) find the clutch slave cylinder. it's on top of the transmission under the shift linkage.
4) loosen the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. tighten it again. this is to "crack" the rusty threads .
5) have assistant press clutch pedal - by hand - slowly - very slowly
6) while your assistant is pressing the clutch pedal open the bleeder screw a little bit. you should see a nice steady flow of brake fluid without bubbles.
7) close the bleeder screw before your assistant has fully depressed the clutch.
8) repeat 5 - 6 - 7 a few times
9) tighten bleeder screw. try clutch. if it's still bad you can try bleeding some more.
10) check brake fluid level.


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## TxJet98 (Jun 29, 2012)

^ I would add that it is helpful to jack up the driver side of the vehicle so that the bleeder screw is at the highest point. I had issues getting air out of mine because the bleed screw is slightly lower than the housing.

Secondly, if the pedal went down that quickly without any warning, your master or slave is probably going bad.

Thirdly, you can always try to bleed it, which is basically free. If that doesn't work, then buy parts


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## Corradough92 (Mar 9, 2014)

Weird issue with my drivers side window that I cant figure out. When you try to roll it down the relay clicks and nothing happens. That is unless it's 45 degrees or colder Outside. When it's cold outside everything works. Any ideas on where to start.


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

Corradough92 said:


> Weird issue with my drivers side window that I cant figure out. When you try to roll it down the relay clicks and nothing happens. That is unless it's 45 degrees or colder Outside. When it's cold outside everything works. Any ideas on where to start.


Hey mine used to do that! Now it just doesn't work at all...


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

Corradough92 said:


> Weird issue with my drivers side window that I cant figure out. When you try to roll it down the relay clicks and nothing happens. That is unless it's 45 degrees or colder Outside. When it's cold outside everything works. Any ideas on where to start.


Motor is locking up. Grease that pig


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

How do you know when your rubber strut mounts need replacing? Is it the gap between the strut tower top surface and the strut cap that indicates wear? There is about a 5mm gap on mine.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Eric D the man!



Eric D said:


> My rule is that if you can fit a finger in the space between the tower and the strut hat, that is it worn.
> If your case, you claim that the mounts are new, but don't say how long ago they were installed.
> 
> If you installed them yourself, did you use the proper VR6 hardware?
> ...


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## VR-SICK RADO (Nov 17, 2010)

I have a 92 SLC 5 speed, only mods are a P-Flow, Coil overs, and Aftermarket rims. I am the original owner, and driver her daily 12 miles round trip to work and back. She is parked on the weekends, and has 178,000 miles. As stated above, I went to start my car, and depressed the clutch pedal, I noticed no pressure on the pedal and it stayed depressed. I had to reach down and pull the pedal back up with my hand. Has anyone had this issue before and know of a DIY-thread. I am an OK home mechanic with a factory shop manual. I have fixed many things things on the car like window regulators, door handles, fuel pump, tune-up stuff (plugs-wires-distributor-etc). Any help would be great and all comments are welcome.
Thanks,
:beer:


FOLLOW UP:
I bled the clutch slave cylinder, by using a small hand pumping oil can, filled with brake fluid, and some tubing connected to the slave cylinder bleeder valve. I opened the brake fluid tank cap, and opened the clutch slave cylinder bleeder valve. Then pumped the fluid into the bleeder valve, forcing the air in the system to go up to the brake fluid tank, and closed the valve while pumping fluid into it. And it worked, and the clutch drove normally for a few weeks, but now the problem has returned. I wanted to try and remove the coolant tank so I can get access to the Clutch master cylinder, but I'm not sure how to remove it. The DIY threads are locked so I can't look in there for help. Does anyone have a DIY method?
Thanks


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

I'm not sure bleeding the circuit is the answer to the problem, especially since you lost pressure again. There's a slow leaking seal somewhere that's going to strand you eventually. I would replace both and be done with it. One must be proactive with the Corrado - it can smell your fear. 








Pull the ball straight up and wriggle side to side. Use a bungee cord to hold it out of the way while you work or it'll keep hitting you in the head and laughing at you.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Is your car peeing drops of brake fluid when you leave it parked? The hard line that goes into your slave tends to crack at the flare nut. When they leak it's hard to tell because the fluid is captured back by the firewall. It only drips out when the car is parked at an angle. That crack leaks fluid and sucks up air til your pedal dies again.

This *may *be happening. If you do find a leak at the flange, that hard line is NLA from the dealer. I've replace two on my g60. USP has stainless flexible Teflon covered versions that will cure the leak if this is what's cooking on your car.


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## VR-SICK RADO (Nov 17, 2010)

Thx Mateok and Pete, 

I Bled the master, and the clutch is working normally again. I will check the hardlines, and try parking at an angle to see if there is any dripping. Should I park with the front towards the downslope, because I park forwards on an average driveway slope and haven't noticed anything. I'll try parking backwards tomorrow.
:thumbup:


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Park up hill and the fluid will drain off the ledge inside the firewall. Prolly easier to follow the hard lines with your hand and see if you have a noticeable residue. Get a high power led light in the in the corner of the firewall under the coolant ball. My car's black so any dust covering oil or fluids is invisible until I lit the crap out of it. The Snap On 2000 lumen LED work light from Costco is the way to go for $39. It throws out focused "daylight" colored light vs. yellow from incandescent bulbs.


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## TxJet98 (Jun 29, 2012)

^ Petethepug, winner of the 10,000th post in Ask the Experts!


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

:beer::beer: he wins every NLA part from VW.


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

With the milestone of 10,000 posts met I think this thread should be locked. It diverts a lot of questions which should be separate forum posts and makes it harder to search for answers...


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## austin028 (Oct 16, 2014)

*Body Parts*

My 90 got banged up last month, I was dreading if this moment would come, and sooner or later it did  passenger fender and door are not worth fixing so I found a near by 91 corrado being parted out. Will a 1991 fender and door fit with the 1990 frame? same electronic plugs-ins? thanks


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## c3k (May 1, 2006)

austin028 said:


> My 90 got banged up last month, I was dreading if this moment would come, and sooner or later it did  passenger fender and door are not worth fixing so I found a near by 91 corrado being parted out. Will a 1991 fender and door fit with the 1990 frame? same electronic plugs-ins? thanks




Yes they will!


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## austin028 (Oct 16, 2014)

*re*

Awesome! that makes things easier.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

TxJet98 said:


> ^ Petethepug, winner of the 10,000th post in Ask the Experts!


A testiment to the OP; Cheers to Noobercorn for starting this thread :beer::beer::beer:


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

austin028 said:


> My 90 got banged up last month, I was dreading if this moment would come, and sooner or later it did  passenger fender and door are not worth fixing so I found a near by 91 corrado being parted out. Will a 1991 fender and door fit with the 1990 frame? same electronic plugs-ins? thanks


While the fender is out show up at your shop and inspect what's behind it. Hopefully all is well and no rust. See if you can order a can of cosmoline in time to give the *inaccessible *area of the fender a nice coat. It's what the factory used during the 90's to keep the cars from rusting and it works DAMN WELL! It's a gun thing. Check this out ... Egyptian's used something similar for mummys ... 



TV74911S said:


> I used to remove this stuff for a living in my college days. My father ran a VW dealership in NYC and I worked in all departments including new car prep.
> 
> In those days (early '70s) the process involved spraying the cars with kerosene then steam cleaning them.


 Read here ... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmoline











echassin said:


> Alright, the cowl's painted, which marks completion of the first little bit that will be seen with the car on the ground with the hood closed :
> 
> Also, looky what came in the mail :thumbup::
> 
> ...


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

No living on SoCal is the best thing you can do to prevent rust on the nest sheetmetal. Since you are already doing #1 you are doing the next best thing.


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## sisca (Sep 6, 2012)

*timing chains*

anyone have suggestions on aftermarket timing chains/guides for a 92 corrado slc vr6? i remember reading somewhere that the OE guides wear or break easily, id like to avoid that...


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Buy the latest parts, for a 98 up. Will have a plastic upper and the temdioner bolt will be flat on the end. 

On a 92 dizzy you may have to cut the threads in the side cover for the tensioner deeper depending on build date.


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## austin028 (Oct 16, 2014)

*g60 upgrades*

Could anyone possibly direct me to a g60 upgrade forum, looking into the Bahnbrenner stage 3 kit after repainting the car. I would like to know more specifics before I dive in though. Charger is ready at 11 psi!


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

The BBM website pretty much says it all. Most peeps look at their upgrades and budget as much hp as possible.

The increase in hp beyond the cars design specs leads to abnormal stress on the g lader, boost piping, motor mounts and cooling system. Inevitably through lack of funds or availability of using another vehicle the g60 is driven when it should be on a rack being maintained.


Purchase another g lader from the classifieds. Get one of these too: **NEW G60 Idle Screw, The most significant and insignificant part we have ever made! *Now your ready for upgrades and service intervals.
Heater core. Reseach *All metal heater core...*. If it's never been replaced call VW Cust Serv and tell them it sounds like hot steam behind your dash. They'll get it replaced for free at a dealer.
Wait, plan, save or get Stg IV boost kit a part at a time or pony up for the whole kit. Don't purchase upgrade eproms only to buy a better one.
 After the kits installed your car needs service intervals. Get a plan for what's failing next. Usually in this order if they haven't been addressed yet

Verify the health of the ribbed pulley on the g lader. Plan a date or milage point to have it swaped out with your other charger and sent out for service.
Motor mounts are going to give way soon. Visit TT's site to research mount made of harder durometer rubber.
If your car doesn't have Samco boost or cooling hoses put them on your radar to nab a set on sale. You prolly have boost leaks now. Think about removing your intercooler and having it dipped in a hot tank at the radiator shop to get rid of 25 years of oil accumulation.
If you have g11 (green) coolant plan a swap to g12 or 13 (pink). They don't mix so plan the flush around the event of heater core or coolant hoses.
You'll notice your suspension begs for love. Alignments become more frequent. Strategize a plan for a *full *font end rebuild, new struts, most do lowering springs simultaneously and sway bar upgrades.
By this time you're ready for a new clutch pack, flywheel, t/o bearing. It you find a good deal on a lightened f/w, grab it. Always replace shaft seal and clutch fork when servicing.
Always keep eyes peeled for a BBM, Nuespeed or dieselgeek short shift kit. It will make your drive experience soooo much better.


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## talbotini (Feb 11, 2015)

*'93 Corrado VR6 - Power Locks/Power Windows not working*

'93 Corrado VR6 - Power Locks/Power Windows not working

It was broken into through the drivers side door handle with a previous owner, and recently the power locks and power windows stopped working. Also, the passenger side door and the back hatch wont unlock with the key at all. and the passenger side door will only open from the inside. I think the problem is electrical since the fuse above the relay panel for the power windows keeps blowing, but even when it is not blown, the power windows don't work. I have found similar problems on forums, but not with my exact symptoms.

I would love to fix the problem completely, but I think it is beyond my abilities and budget right now. I am fairly capable. I replaced the CV axle on my own and I have done a timing belt on an Audi A4. I had the driver's side door card off last night trying to troubleshoot it without any luck. I was going off the repair manual, and it is pretty cryptic though.

More than anything I would like to at least find a way to lock and unlock the doors and hatch manually either with the key or the interior post without the power locks working. Does anyone know if there is a way to do that?


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## Mike01jettavr6 (Feb 9, 2015)

Timing Chain?

Alright I might have made a major mistake and I need some input; I just recent bought a 2001 Jetta VR6 131k on it and at first I didn't notice so much but since I've gotten. To drive it more I've noticed it's really sluggish on take off and doesn't seem to shift into 4th gear. Also I started noticing a faint rattling noise. And the CEL is on with the codes P0785, P0411 and P1151. I spent all I really had apart from about $1,000 at best for repairs. I have a good feeling j am screwed. Any input is GREATLY appreciated. I have a family and can't afford this loss. I paid 2200. Again any input is helpful options costs possible diagnoses. Thank you. ):

P.S. I posted this on the VW jetta IV forums if I need to delete that post let me know, just need feedback ASAP. And as far as mechanically inclined consider me knowing almost nothing.


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## BugAudi (Jul 22, 2014)

P0785 is the one you need to worry about. Look into 
- Low transmission fluid level
- Dirty transmission fluid
- Faulty shifting solenoid valve
- Shifting solenoid valve harness is open or shorted
- Shifting solenoid valve circuit poor electrical connection.
P0411 is SAI related and shouldn't be harmful. 
P1151 is lean fuel I believe. Possible leak?


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

The trans code can lock it in 3rd and the car will be a slug. Sai is usually vac hoses. Lean fuel, vac leak, lazy o2, maf. 

The rattle is probably the shift rod in the intake manifold. Hit youtube for examples. It will be loud frot and center. Timing chains will make noise on the side under the coilpack. Generally mk4 chains are good other than broken uper guide rails which arent that hard to change.


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## Mike01jettavr6 (Feb 9, 2015)

It did end up being the timing chain. I got quoted $2,000 for the fix and still don't know what the tranny issue is I was recently told I would have to replace the transmission by another mechanic without even looking at it. ):


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Thats odd because there are lots of common problems on that trans with the internal harness. Much easier to replace than the whole tranny.


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## TxJet98 (Jun 29, 2012)

$2000 for the timing chain is way too much. Parts are only going to be $400 max, so $1600 labor (aka 16 hours) is just ridiculous. Should be much closer to 8 hours of labor.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Its a mk4, they take me 10-12hrs, 14-16 with headgasket and coolant flush (which it probably needs). Parts arent just the chains, could include clutch disc, pp, fw resurface, etc. 2k could be right in depending whats included. I don't let Corrados in my presence for less than that


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

TxJet98 said:


> $2000 for the timing chain is way too much. Parts are only going to be $400 max, so $1600 labor (aka 16 hours) is just ridiculous. Should be much closer to 8 hours of labor.


I guess you're not a tech and have no concept of Mitchell book time.

Last mk4 I did chains on I got 18 hours. I did a crap ton of extra stuff to go with that. Customer was happy. And that's all that matters 


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## TxJet98 (Jun 29, 2012)

I'm not a tech, but having done the chains by myself in my garage for the first time a couple months ago with the car on jack stands, I wouldn't think it would take that long. I did cams, lifters, HD valve springs, and the chains and guides. Took me about 20 hours of work, of which about 8 was setting the timing and doing the camshafts... that's first time. I'd think an experienced tech could do chains only in about 10-12 hours. 

Not trying to start a ruckus. But, I would accept $2000 in a heartbeat to do the timing chains (and coolant, obviously) on someones 12V VR6. 

Valid point: flywheel, clutch, etc. Could be worth the $2000 depending on what additional work was recommended.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

You're getting hosed. Back when the VR's were still under warranty VW paid just under a grand to do the chains - parts and labor. Other than warranty work, there's no set "time" to do any repair. It's whatever the shop can get away with, so keep shopping.


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## Dorrado (Dec 12, 2001)

Hello,

I am trying to sort out an issue i am having with my OBD2 converted corrado. It currently has an C2 60# kit (non pro-maf) and i have had the codes run and all i got were the following:

16502 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor
16725 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40): Implausible Signal

It had no o2 sensors hooked up but after some advice form the forum i installed a front o2 sensor. i swapped the MAF/cam position sensor and put in a new coolant temp sensor but have no had a chance to get the car scanned again.

The car fires up right away, idles wonderfully, and even revs freely. Once the engine has been running for a little bit the idle picks up slightly (maybe 200-300 rpm and runs much richer) and then the motor stalls itself. When i restart the car it fires right up again, idles high, runs rich, and then stalls out all on its own.

This is leading me to think it is something with the coolant temp sensor wiring. If there was something wrong with the MAF/cam position sensor it would exhibit that problem at idle when it is started? does this sound about right? i am trying to narrow this down as i have already replaced the blue coolant temp sensor but the wiring may be in the incorrect place.

thanks for any help


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

*02J to A swap question*

I acquired an 02A shifter box w/ a B&M short shifter in it today, as well as cables and tower. Just wanted to confirm, is there a difference between the 02a and 02j tower that would keep me from leaving to stock tower in place and only replacing shifter and cables?


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

Both are completely different. Can't swap any parts


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## Wompa (Oct 30, 2009)

Im not really trusting my temp gauge.. Is it any way I can check the temperature without the gauges?

Can I measure OHM or is it just VAG-Com that works?


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## DIEGOENUSA (Mar 17, 2003)

Question for you guys...

What's the trick to reinstall the passenger side door lock rod ( the one that is attached to the door lock pin)? Part # 535837184A for reference.
I'm having a really hard time installing this.


Thanks in advance!

Diego


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## Wompa (Oct 30, 2009)

Installing it in the door or on the door pin?

If its the pin, I would angel the door card so that the rod is in the hole and then install the pin with some threads and voila!


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

You need some thin pliers my man


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## DIEGOENUSA (Mar 17, 2003)

blackslcchild said:


> You need some thin pliers my man


long nose pliers should help... I'll get some.Thanks.


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## jettag60 (Nov 2, 2005)

what's the best upgrade these days for G60's

the old setup of hawk pads and brembo rotors is good, but my calipers are seized and was thinking of upgrading....

it's been a few years since i've moved the car so i'll have to check out the pads/rotors to see if they're still good so i might just rebuild the calipers but looking for something more

i know willwoods are an easy upgrade...older porsche brembo's but i want to keep the 15" rims


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

jettag60 said:


> what's the best upgrade these days for G60's
> 
> the old setup of hawk pads and brembo rotors is good, but my calipers are seized and was thinking of upgrading....
> 
> ...


I have girling 60 caliper upgrade (IIRC 54 is stock?) and love it. They work beautifully and bolt on replacement. 

I would also check your brake lines and do a fluid flush. When I moved mine for the first time in 5 years, there was a hole in the line from it rusting out. 25 year old brake lines do eventually wear out.


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## jettag60 (Nov 2, 2005)

i've got goodrich lines already.....aren't the 60's big boat anchors??


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

I don't think they are boat anchors.... what leads you to think this?


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## jettag60 (Nov 2, 2005)

just what i've heard over the years...they're heavier than the 54's with not much more stopping power, again, what i've heard


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

I think it's all relative to the use of the car and how much power it has. 

Upgrading only the fronts to some amazing Wilwood 4 piston setup won't but that good because you also need to upgrade the rear. If the car is just a vr6 used for street driving or even drag racing, the 60s will be fine. The ONLY way I believe you need anything more than a dual piston setup on a Corrado is if you are doing auto-x and going from 120mph to 60mph in a few hundred feet. Other than that, it's pointless and merely for show or bragging rights.


I know there will be plenty of people that disagree with my statement. I am just stating my opinion, take it as you please.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

The 60's _*do*_ have a reputation as boat anchors. Girling60 weigh 13lb. The OE girling54 weigh 8.5 lb.

In short you get to use the same master cylinder and pick up over 30% more pad area using the same Corrado rotor (that weigh 12.lb).

Once all the calipers, carriers/brackets and rotors are put on the scale, the boat anchor factor has a new light shed on it. There's no other way to get over 30% swept brake area on a disc by adding 4.5lb to each side.

You could always go with Willwood Dynapro calipers w/ 4 pots @ 3.7lb per side on OE Corrado discs. Add in another pound for the steel axial to radial adapter to get 4.7lb plus the carrier for 1.5lb for a total of 18.2lb ea side with just a hair less brake surface area. Willwood Dynapro caliper set up = 18.2lb ea side. It's not rocket science, it's just some parts on a scale with a bunch of numbers added together. In the end it's just what ever makes you happy (unless you're tracking your car). 



petethepug said:


> *Girling G 54* (Corrado oe) single pot caliper (8.5lb), bracket (1.5lb), and rotor (12lb.) weigh in at .................................. *22lb ea side*.
> *Girling 60* dual pot caliper, bracket and Corrado rotor weighs in at ............................................................................. *26.5lb ea side*.
> *Cupra R* Brembo 4 pot caliper, bracket and rotor weighs in at .....................................................................................* 35lb ea side*.
> * ATE "DE"* dual pot caliper, bracket (13.5lb) and rotor (23lb) weighs in at .................................................................... *36lb ea side*.
> ...


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

Do the Girling 60's with stock-sized rotors fit under 15" wheels? I'm not giving up my Speedlines....


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Confirmed. Stock speedlines DO fit over DE brakes.11.3"

rotors, Girling G60's and Speedlines?

Yes, the Girling 60 & DE both fit under the OE Speedline (et 43) rims. Remarkable that much caliper fits under 15's. I did read that the g60 Sebring (et 35) DO NOT fit over girling 60 though.



FourSeasonTuning.com said:


> You will need a new set of VR6 front brake lines. I have seen the calipers under the VR6 speedline oe rims. The Audi S4/S6 (92-97) uses this caliper. You must use a pad that is made for this caliper as the girling 54 pad wont fit. Correct pad is linked below (as shown in first post photo)
> http://fourseasontuning.com/?product=82



Here's some girling 60's crammed under 15" Ronal's on a B3 Passat.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Rear brakes don't do a thing (even stock you'll want more front bias!) and a 2.5lb adapter for a Wilwood is insane, you can get that under 1lb. So 4.7lb (est) vs 10+lb (stock) with a bigger pad and four pistons. Seems like a win and makes the Girling60 seem like the boat anchor it is!


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Better said , rear brakes are for parking and getting sideways, but boat anchors all day for SoCal to Vegas to Sierra Nevada runs. The VR is the only VW they dreamed up that's more nose heavy that my phat phront wheel drive g60. The OE calipers on our g60 have had 2 fluid changes, period. A total of 3 fluid changes in 25 years with over 100K on the boat anchors & over 200K total on the OE rear set up alone. The recommended service interval of aluminum multi piston set ups suck and don't tolerate abuse like that. If you have mandatory inspection for a tracked, car I see your point. Standing on a good set of BBK _will _get you into a turn later, but the g60 we drive isn't set up for track, Fast and Furious outtakes or car shows. 

Yea, one of the rear calipers is starting to stick and will soon be at the recycler as scrap. TT rear alum calipers are made to fix that. Girling 60 were made to stop a car almost 4K pounds. For under $2H and 64 more ounces of weight, this 2.6K pound light weight g60 knows it's all relative at the end of the day. Win for this car is NOT spending $$ on a BBK to stop it. A silenced lysholm is waiting to make it faster and tell the boat anchors to suck it up and like it. I'm just not into the exotic price point and maintenance of diet calipers on a Corrado. Throwing BBK money at a nice G model targa, _that_ makes sense and has better ROI.


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## clintg60-16v (Dec 13, 2002)

Girling 60 calipers do fit under the Sebrings.  and the calipers are awesome. Far from boat anchors. Lol!


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## jettag60 (Nov 2, 2005)

great info thanks guys

the g60's came on the B3/B4 passats right?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

jettag60 said:


> great info thanks guys
> 
> the g60's came on the B3/B4 passats right?


Sources for girling g60 brake parts:
1992 - 1994 Audi S4 Q Turbo (Engine: AAN)
1990 - 1994 Audi V8 Q
1992 - 1994 Audi 100 V6
1989 - 1991 Audi 200 Turbo
1987 - 1988 Audi 5000 Q
1986 - 1988 Audi 5000 QT
1984 - 1988 Audi 5000 Turbo
1993 - 1995 Audi 90 V6

Passats all used same stuff as Corrado/Mk3 depending on year and engine.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Noo no, no, it's girling 60 calipers *not* g60 calipers. So happy to be incorrect about Sebring rims not fitting over the girling 60. At least one of the posts I quoted said they no worky

OE g60 (Corrado) calipers are girling 54. The VR Corrado as well as some of the G/J used the girling 54. The early G/J used a version of girling 54 that has a thinner pad and smaller bleed nipple prone to snapping off. You'll see posts of owners doing caliper upgrades to girling 54 set ups from the early G/J and they can't get the caliper over the 11" vented g60 disc. Those early G/J girling 54 calipers were made for Mk II with solid 10.1" discs up front. The g60 & VR Corrado used thicker 11" vented discs.

The girling 60 were standard equipment on some Audi in the 80's & 90's as well as '05 up Chrysler Crossfire SRT-R (supercharged) version. Only the brackets/carriers from the OE girling 60 calipers used on Audi vehicles will work on Mk I, II & III VW cars. The Mk I need to use an adapter in conjunction with the OE, Audi girling 60 carriers. Both the left and right side girling 60 brackets are identical. The left and right side girling 60 calipers are specific to each side. The crossfire srt carriers only work on that car and wont fit on any of the Audi or VW cars.

None of the b3/b4 Passat used girling 60 calipers (# 447615123 & 447615124), at least here in the States. The pads are VAG # 441 698 151 *E.* 90% of us are going to cut off e brake sensor wire (if equipped). The few Corrado w/ a brake pad sensors lite instead of seat belt sensor lite can hook up the sensor on the pads with your girling 60 calipers.

http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/au...oZTBp5pPcQeUsxXU8r7ib3YEZiMzFGYU3Rzp0VfWX/RU=


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## jettag60 (Nov 2, 2005)

TheBurninator said:


> Sources for girling g60 brake parts:
> 1992 - 1994 Audi S4 Q Turbo (Engine: AAN)
> 1990 - 1994 Audi V8 Q
> 1992 - 1994 Audi 100 V6
> ...


gotcha, it's been a while since i've been in the VW world



ya sorry mistyped G60 when i meant the 60's....force of habit


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## Mike01jettavr6 (Feb 9, 2015)

*P0785 Code Limp Mode*

I have a 2001 Jetta VR6 throwing a P0785 code took it in for a diagnosis that cost $100 and he wanted another $300 for a further diagnosis. I ended up not doing it for various reasons. But what he said is "Diag, tran code DTC 00270 solenoid 7 open circuit tested wires to and from TCM all checked good tested resistance of #7 valve at tran connector and is 78.9 OHMS in specs. Either solenoid or transmission ribbon has high resistance. " I just replaced the timing chains cost me about $1,000. Scared I'm going to be stuck replacing the tranny. Anyone have any sort of input with the information given on what it could be? Also I need to replace intake manifold shift rod, I don't know if that could be related. Thanks in advance!


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## Mike01jettavr6 (Feb 9, 2015)

Also have a loos positive terminal, doubt it's related fixing here soon but thought I'd mention it.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

*Read This Before Posting! FAQ & Rules for the VAG-COM forum*

Then go here and look for answers b4 posting questions

*VAG-COM Diagnostic Forum*


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## austin028 (Oct 16, 2014)

*G60 coilovers*

looking to get these for a 1990 g60 corrado http://wrdusa.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?...e=100A2390&Category_Code=corradog60suspension

should I also get this with it?
- Strut Mount With Bearing
- Rear Shock Mount


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## TxJet98 (Jun 29, 2012)

Austin028, honestly, I would look at the used market for a nicer set of coilovers before buying those. You'll be more happy with a nicer set that already includes all bushings and is ready to swap in, like these:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?t=7091883


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Damn! $500 with 3 way yellow Koni inside = WIN! The Koni yellows inside are serviceable by the owner. The FK can use ANY brand strut insert made for the rear of a Corrado and the front will use any strut insert made for the Mk I GTI. Of course you can always wait 2 years for a proprietary FK/Koni replacement from Germany. The other option is to run them with cheapie KYB inserts while you have the OE FK/Koni inserts rebuilt by a certified Koni rebuilder. They'll dial them in on a shock dyno ($100-$150 ea).

It's a lot of options that allow you go cheap, go OE Koni or go FK/Koni rebuilt dyno tuned for the car. The OE Koni inserts carry a lifetime warranty. Regardless of whatever way you go, you can still make up some of your costs by selling the FK/Koni inserts to someone for the specific purpose of being rebuilt by an authorized rebuild shop.

The FK only have the downfall of being prone to rust, well everything's prone to rust in the rust belt. Not sure why I never considered the perfect solution to rust that VW used ... COSMOLINE!!

If you give those a good coat the same stuff VW put on the Corrado to keep the car from rotting, your set!! All these options weren't available back in the day and most of us had to continually replace inserts and springs because lowering the car will half life the suspension components. With spring/coil purchases, it's pay now, pay the same or more later or pay now and pay a little or nothing (lifetime warranty) later. Obviously, everyone still has to swap out the bearings and bushings in the suspension approx. every 40K no matter what.


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## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

I have a question guys. It takes a while for my car to turn over while starting. Sometimes it turns over immediately, sometimes I have to hold the key for up to 3-5 seconds, then it turns right over. It does these even when jumping the contacts without the ignition switch, so I know it's not that.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

What's your latest service regimen? On cold start up or warm start up?


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

I've got a few plugs in the passat harness that have no home. When I did my swap I opted for the mk3 harness so it was easier.









Middle is starter signal. Found a home for that. Yell/green is ac. What's the other plug?








Then this guy








And last but not least. I was matching up wires and gonna solder them. Just wondering what it is. I don't have a bentley on hand.

Thanks


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

Anyone?? Need to know asap


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

Dimmu said:


> Anyone?? Need to know asap


Those plugs from the Passat harness? Auto trans? I don't have a Passat bentley so take this for what it's worth.... I do have a Passat OBD2 harness right here except it's off a manual trans.
The 8-pin could be for the auto trans? I don't have an 8-pin like that on my harness. The only other black 8-pins under the dash are the radio and the MIL light.
The blue two-pin links the FCM and the aux water pump, and the FCM and the after-run temp sensor (yellow plug).


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

theprf said:


> Those plugs from the Passat harness? Auto trans? I don't have a Passat bentley so take this for what it's worth.... I do have a Passat OBD2 harness right here except it's off a manual trans.
> The 8-pin could be for the auto trans? I don't have an 8-pin like that on my harness. The only other black 8-pins under the dash are the radio and the MIL light.
> The blue two-pin links the FCM and the aux water pump, and the FCM and the after-run temp sensor (yellow plug).


shouldve clarified that, its a passat harness. not too sure about the auto part. a friend got it on vortex from someone else here.


and thanks for the help. if anyone else knows please chime in!


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

Dimmu said:


> shouldve clarified that, its a passat harness. not too sure about the auto part. a friend got it on vortex from someone else here.
> and thanks for the help. if anyone else knows please chime in!


The only 8-pin I can find is for the ECU/TCM linkage, except your colors don't match... does pin 5 of this go to F/9 on the fuse box? If it does then this is the TCM/ECU linkage plug.

The only 4-pin I can find is for the shift lock solenoid & shift console light, again your colors don't match.

There's also a 4-pin that goes to the cluster for the PRNDL21 lcd, except it's a flat 4-pin, not a square 4-pin.


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

I appreciate the help sir. As usual the car fired up first try. So you are correct. Auto plugs. Sai pump and everything turned on. All gauges work. It's awesome. One more proper obd2 corrado


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## genoentchev123 (Apr 15, 2007)

*wheel mounting*

hey guys, I have 2 sets of BBS for my corrado VR6, I currently have http://u.8.cf.nengun.com/367908/nengun-367908-01-bbs-bbs_rx202gy_set_of_four_17_inch-d8724a2b52.jpg these on there, but one is cracked and will need repair (Using 205/45/16 5x100) and I wanted to mount one of the others in the meantime. The other looks like this: http://www.zerotohundred.com/gallery/albums/bbs wheels list/ta177772zr3.jpg but I was told the other set would not mount directly by the guy who i bought the car from. stamped on the wheels are: "01 BN Germany" "8J X 16H2" "325 ET42" "JJL BBS" part number area is blank ? inside of wheel has "0343023" I think this may be 5x114, but im not sure, so if anyone knows how to mount this or even the name of these wheels (still don't know which ones they are exactly) any and all help would be greatly appreciated.


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## TxJet98 (Jun 29, 2012)

16x8 ET42 might be kind of close to your suspension components, depending on suspension setup.

5x114.3 would definitely be a problem. You would need adapters to make those fit.


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

Anyone have wiring diagrams for ecode auto levelers?


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

Dimmu said:


> Anyone have wiring diagrams for ecode auto levelers?


This has the 93+ switch because I have a 93+ car. The 92 & older switch might be different, at least the heated seat switches are pinned differently. Click the picture to get a full scale one, it's huge so I did a thumbnail.


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## dion de lima melo (Jul 27, 2014)

*ecode lenses*

Looking for encode lenses.. mine cracked have been looking for a while pleeeeease help!!!!!:banghead:


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## zhemel (Apr 23, 2005)

Experts needed-

Why would my 1990 g60 have a wvwzzz vin code on the firewall and normal U.S. spec vin on the rest of the car?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

zhemel said:


> Experts needed-
> 
> Why would my 1990 g60 have a wvwzzz vin code on the firewall and normal U.S. spec vin on the rest of the car?


That's the chassis code, which is a little different than the vehicle identification number. The X's and Z's are check digits used by VW. It's perfectly normal.


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## genoentchev123 (Apr 15, 2007)

TxJet98 said:


> 16x8 ET42 might be kind of close to your suspension components, depending on suspension setup.
> 
> 5x114.3 would definitely be a problem. You would need adapters to make those fit.


thanks, that's what I was worried about, I might get some spacers with the adapters and just see if i can make them work... turns out my rim is okay actually, the tire bead was leaking.


new question though:

Do all corrado's have the same suspension setup??? I'm looking for cheap coilovers for now (my bushings/mounts are shot and I wanna lower it anyway, going cheap route for now until more $$ is available) i see someone posting online saying they have "VW MK2 / MK3 GOLF & JETTA" coilovers for sale, just want to make sure that it won't be for a G60 setup instead of my VR6. ebay says it will fit my car when i punched it in to see if it's compatible. not sure if they all mount the same

this is the part:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RSK-STREET-...gen|Model:Corrado&hash=item2c8372f659&vxp=mtr


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## Wompa (Oct 30, 2009)

How do I adjust the dashpot? And the setscrew... non of them are adjusted...... :banghead:

The Bentley isnt much help, I cant really adjust anything without the other.

What should I do?

Its a ABV Thorttle body...


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## TxJet98 (Jun 29, 2012)

@genoentchev

Yes, mkii, mkiii, and corrado can all share the same coilover. You just need to have the correct top mounts.

I'd recommend saving your money for some quality coilovers. Heck, find some used koni or H&R in the classifieds for $500. Your money is better spent on some quality products, rather than shelling out $400 now and then just having to replace them with good parts later. Buy it once, buy it right.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

genoentchev123 said:


> new question though:
> 
> Do all corrado's have the same suspension setup??? I'm looking for cheap coilovers for now (my bushings/mounts are shot and I wanna lower it anyway, going cheap route for now until more $$ is available) i see someone posting online saying they have "VW MK2 / MK3 GOLF & JETTA" coilovers for sale, just want to make sure that it won't be for a G60 setup instead of my VR6. ebay says it will fit my car when i punched it in to see if it's compatible. not sure if they all mount the same
> 
> ...


Those are cheap! They're below beginner quality and should come with a 30 day calendar so you know when they're ready to be replaced. I'd put those on a car being sold on craigslist after I pulled off my Koni coilovers.You can still buy cheap and upgrade later though. I understand it's all about the budget. FK coils can have their cartridges replaced with about 90% of other manufactures cartridges. Koni, Boge, KYB, etc. Spend a little now, spend a little later. ALL coilovers need to have marine grease on the coil threads & rings or they'll rot. The coilover bodies need to be painted, powder coated or have a coat of cosmoline applied. If they're not stainless, they'll look like Titanic relics in less than a year.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Corrado--G60/Suspension/Coilovers/ES250778/


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Wompa said:


> How do I adjust the dashpot? And the setscrew... non of them are adjusted...... :banghead:
> 
> The Bentley isnt much help, I cant really adjust anything without the other.
> 
> ...


Here is what I've done:

Scribe current position of throttle plate in bore.
Back out set screw and dashpot.
Crank in on dashpot such that the throttle closes slowly just past the line just scribed (inward of current stop)
Tighten setscrew back to original position, or just past so that the throttle plate is fully closed and does not stick when closed. Having a slight air leak here is OK as long as it's not huge. 
If you have had to move the stop outward, adjust the dashpot outward about the same amount.


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

Does anyone make replacment side mirror glass? Or is it still available through the stealership or indies?


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Heated, clip on side view mirrors have become available for the Corrado.

I only know of the place in the UK that has them. Strangely they DO NOT ship to the US but will ship to Canada. Go figure.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?_o...RS0&_nkw=mirror+heated+glass+corrado&_sacat=0


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

HA, thanks for the link...heres a funny.

Postage and packaging
Item location: Pool, Redruth, United Kingdom
Postage to: Europe, Asia, United States, Australia, Canada
Excludes: Canada, Switzerland, Austria, United States, Germany

Lets just go ahead and contradict ourselves...


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## lucasvoithoffer (Apr 1, 2015)

Recently busted a brake line on my 1990 g60. I went to move it across the street and the clutch pedal stuck down and wouldn't come back up by its self. The clutch would still engage right at the end with the pedal stuck down. After a few mins it had pressure again and was working fine. The car has very little or no brake fulid in it. Could that be the source of my problem? Any help is very much appreciated.


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

lucasvoithoffer said:


> Recently busted a brake line on my 1990 g60. I went to move it across the street and the clutch pedal stuck down and wouldn't come back up by its self. The clutch would still engage right at the end with the pedal stuck down. After a few mins it had pressure again and was working fine. The car has very little or no brake fulid in it. Could that be the source of my problem? Any help is very much appreciated.


Yes, the clutch shares fluid with the brakes.


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## lucasvoithoffer (Apr 1, 2015)

JamesS said:


> Yes, the clutch shares fluid with the brakes.


Thanks


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Is there an oil cooler kit that is available for the vr6 corrado. That I can buy and you guys recommend?


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## TxJet98 (Jun 29, 2012)

There are a couple ones available. I believe the mocal 18 row with thermostat is a pretty popular item.


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## 14vw (Sep 14, 2011)

Hey guy idk if this thread is still going if so my question is I have a 90 corrado with the g60 engine and the past owner said it need the heater core assembly..... Can you guys help me out thanks


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

TxJet98 said:


> There are a couple ones available. I believe the mocal 18 row with thermostat is a pretty popular item.


Link to it? Kit is ready to plug and play?


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## TxJet98 (Jun 29, 2012)

14vw said:


> Hey guy idk if this thread is still going if so my question is I have a 90 corrado with the g60 engine and the past owner said it need the heater core assembly..... Can you guys help me out thanks


That is possible. Look in your engine bay, and see if the two coolant hoses going to your firewall are still connected to the firewall, or if they have been connected to each other and are dangling.

If they are still hooked up, see if you're getting any water on your passenger side floor, or if your windows are constantly fogging up. These are signs your heater core is busted. 


blackslcchild said:


> Link to it? Kit is ready to plug and play?


I'm not sure. Google is probably your best friend. Or the vortex classifieds.

Link to what I googled:
http://www.tdnparts.com/oil-cooler-kit/


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

blackslcchild said:


> Link to it? Kit is ready to plug and play?


Nothing on these cars are plug and play. Prepare to mod like crazy to get it to fit.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Dimmu said:


> Nothing on these cars are plug and play. Prepare to mod like crazy to get it to fit.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone 5 3/4 using Tapatalk


I just need the kit, I'll make it happen.


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

I had to cut the core support a little to fit it. You still have ac so it's gonna be a pain since the condenser is there. If you want, hit me up. I have some pointers and can help with the install. DO NOT put it in the wheel well. Out here these cars run hot and need to have the cooler behind the grill for the most efficient cooling.

My temps were 250-270 w/ ac on and freeway speeds. 

After was 220 max. 190-200 driving around. At night I never saw over 160. 

Well worth the time and effort to install it. 

Shoot me a text cocksucka 


Sent from my iPhone 5 3/4 using Tapatalk


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

TxJet98 said:


> I'm not sure. Google is probably your best friend. Or the vortex classifieds.
> 
> Link to what I googled:
> http://www.tdnparts.com/oil-cooler-kit/



Is the 19 row kit the best I can get for the corrado in the market?


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

The bigger the better. But you have to take in consideration that it has to have sufficient airflow to work correctly. The one I have is perfect for behind the grill. But that's about to change soon. I need to redo my cooling system.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Dimmu said:


> The bigger the better. But you have to take in consideration that it has to have sufficient airflow to work correctly. The one I have is perfect for behind the grill. But that's about to change soon. I need to redo my cooling system.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone 5 3/4 using Tapatalk


Dang man, I need one so bad


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## TxJet98 (Jun 29, 2012)

I have a low temp coolant thermostat and fan switch and my oil sits about 208 on the highway, 190 in town. However, on the track, it couldn't keep it down... approaching 290 degree oil temps on the track! Yikes!


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

TxJet98 said:


> I have a low temp coolant thermostat and fan switch and my oil sits about 208 on the highway, 190 in town. However, on the track, it couldn't keep it down... approaching 290 degree oil temps on the track! Yikes!


That's what I have also, helps tremendously! 
I live in the desert so I would like to help my engine cool off as much as possible.
I need the best kit available


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## Wompa (Oct 30, 2009)

What about a oil cooler fan? Thats is allways live?

Then you dont really need to rely on air flow so much as space.


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

Oil cooler fan won't do a thing. And it will inhibit airflow while driving. Best place for a cooler is behind the grill.


Sent from my iPhone 5 3/4 using Tapatalk


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## Wompa (Oct 30, 2009)

Dimmu said:


> Oil cooler fan won't do a thing. And it will inhibit airflow while driving. Best place for a cooler is behind the grill.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone 5 3/4 using Tapatalk


Okey... they dont do a thing.. okey.

Cheers on that statement.


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

Show me conclusive data. I've tried it. You will not find a small fan that flows enough to notice a difference. 




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## Wompa (Oct 30, 2009)

Dimmu said:


> Show me conclusive data. I've tried it. You will not find a small fan that flows enough to notice a difference.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Spal makes a fan that will deliver 295CFM.
B&M makes a cooler and fan kit that chucks out 350CFM. 

I had good results on cooling my engine with two fans making 480 CFM each... and cooling the oil, just by getting a ACCTUAL cooler and placing it somewhere where there will be some fresh air and not a heatbox will makes some difference.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Biggest core you can physically fit. Also clean ac coil and rad help a ton to make sure the cooling system is working as well as it can. 

You only need air to about 1/3 of the core to make it work nearly fully efficient.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I just need the best kit, I'll make it fit (as long as it's meant to be on the corrado vr6).


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## TxJet98 (Jun 29, 2012)

Get the 19 row mocal kit in the link I posted earlier.

http://www.tdnparts.com/oil-cooler-kit/


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

TxJet98 said:


> Get the 19 row mocal kit in the link I posted earlier.
> 
> http://www.tdnparts.com/oil-cooler-kit/


Sorry for my lack of knowledge but, what's the difference between the two vr6 kits?

Thanks .


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## TxJet98 (Jun 29, 2012)

The cheaper one has a "no name" 24 row oil cooler. Theoretically, more rows means more cooling capacity. However, there are other factors that limit the heat dissipation, like how thick the rows are and how many zig-zag heat sinks are in between each row. There is also the fittings and mounting connections, which could be cheaper and more likely to leak or break off. I have no idea if these are any better or worse on this specific cooler. However...

The mocal cooler is a 19 row, but, should be better quality, have more heat sinks between the rows, flow better, and work better. Plus, it's smaller, and should fit nicely in front of your radiator. 

I cannot say anything specific about the other "no name" cooler but I know the mocal will do a great job. I have a friend here in Texas (100+ summer temps) and his oil never went above 200 during normal driving, and he saw 230 max while punishing it on the track. He had the exact 19 row mocal kit I posted in that link.


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## hallkbrd (Apr 8, 2000)

You can put an oil cooler radiator in the side well, but you will need to also put a fan on it to force air through it.


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## German Juggernaut (Jan 26, 2005)

*Front Bumper Install*

Greetings, 

So I'm installing a front bumper after having it off for *years* (front end was near totaled, this is the last of it before it's back on the road)

When I trying to line up the bolts, it looks like the clip that attaches the bumper skin to the lip (metal bracket with five bolts across) is trying to occupy the same space as the front subframe. 
It looks like in a way, the subframe could have been used in place of the bracket. 

So, my question is - is it supposed to above or below? To follow up, was there are year that the subframe was used to hold the bumper skin and lip together - Could I just have extra parts?

I know pics are best, I'll try to take some in a few and post them up. Thanks-


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Is there a Corrado owner who has installed the heat exchanger (oil cooler) in front of the fender liner? 

Obviously this would be going out to the g60 owners or non US Corrado peeps with the NA 16V or 2.0L motors who don't have an IC in place. No one's ever acknowledged the benefits of isolating the (oil) heat exchanger in the compartment that the g60 runs the IC in or, in the fender well, opposite of the g60 IC.

The VR doesn't have the active brake cooling ducts the g60 uses for it's IC set up. Isolating the heat exch in the fender well behind a (g60) cooling duct would avoid all the heat transfer that normally occurs when running a sandwiched set up on the radiator & condenser.

Would isolating the heat exch away from the roasty condenser & radiator offset the need for cooling fan when g60 brake ducting is used? All the cross contamination that the condenser & radiator heat pollutes back into the oil circuit (and visa versa) would be eliminated.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

What is the bolt part number for the 2 bolts that mount the plastic Corrado VR6 engine trim cover (the part that has the vw logo and VR6-DOHC depression on it).:beer:

Are these what I need? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-VW-GOL...407?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item232f3071ef
OEM Part Number?


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## TxJet98 (Jun 29, 2012)

Good question Pete. My un-scientific and un-tested thoughts are that you wouldn't get enough air flow. Also, is there really that much heat transfer from the radiator to the oil heat exchanger when the car is moving? I would think that airflow over the components would keep them cool and not "soak" heat into the oil heat exchanger from the radiator just by contact. 

In summary, I think the oil cooler needs as much airflow as possible, therefore should be mounted in front of the car.


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## hallkbrd (Apr 8, 2000)

petethepug said:


> Is there a Corrado owner who has installed the heat exchanger (oil cooler) in front of the fender liner?


Yes. Works great. I cut a hole in the wheel well plastic, then glued a plastic mesh screen there to keep rocks out. Air comes from the front, goes through the fan and radiator, then out to the wheel well. Stole the idea from what Porsche did on the 9xx's:










Driver's side on mine:


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Nice!!!! This is why I love corrado owners. The knowledge is strong in here!


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

So I had a funny morning, went out to move the Corrado to get the Passat out of the garage as I planned on taking it to work today. I turned on the ignition and rolled the C down the driveway without starting, stoped, turned the ignition off, seatbelt only came forward half way. Turned igniiton back on and off seatbelt went the full way. Got out of the car and shut the door, pulled the Passat out went back to the Corrado, noticed that the alarm LED was on on the door, unlocked. Opened door, BAM alarm goes off.....

1. I didn't even know the alarm on the car worked
2. I didn't even know the horn worked
3. I don't have a fob for the alarm :laugh:

Popped the hood, pulled the negative battery cable to kill alarm, put it back on, all is good...move the car back into the garage.

I have also been having a wierd issue where I will be driving and all electronics will cut out, the car will buck, and then everything comes back on. This will randomly happen, I can be sitting still, or driving at full speed :what: But the car has come right back with no action on my part.

Is the alarm capable of causing this to happen while driving?


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

Inkarnata said:


> Is the alarm capable of causing this to happen while driving?


No but the ignition switch or ECU relay is.


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## eyepoppet (May 2, 2011)

Bad ground/broken wires?


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## genoentchev123 (Apr 15, 2007)

Hey Vortex, my 93 slc is rough as all hell over bumps and the thing is only getting worse. i want to replace my strut mounts, but I'm unsure what parts i need exactly.. i was lucky enough that the guy from my local VW dealer gave me an exploded view of everything, with part numbers... http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c324/genoentchev123/awesomesauce_zpshr0ikrf5.png (click on the button to zoom in to get a better view)

my question is, what do i need to replace to smooth out my ride? I have control front arm bushings as well, but i want to do everything in one shot... i know i need the strut bearing (#2) & strut mount (#7), but do i need to replace the spring seat (#8) or the rubber stop for shock absorber (#3) as well??? also, can i re-use the old hex nut/ threaded bushing (#6) & the strut stop itself (#4) or do i need to replace everything? I'm kinda low on cash so I'm trying to not throw away money i don't have. 

Thanks all! I need to do this asap, this weekend the latest ... :banghead:


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## Slider388 (Apr 30, 2012)

genoentchev123 said:


> Hey Vortex, my 93 slc is rough as all hell over bumps and the thing is only getting worse. i want to replace my strut mounts, but I'm unsure what parts i need exactly.. i was lucky enough that the guy from my local VW dealer gave me an exploded view of everything, with part numbers... http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c324/genoentchev123/awesomesauce_zpshr0ikrf5.png (click on the button to zoom in to get a better view)
> 
> my question is, what do i need to replace to smooth out my ride? I have control front arm bushings as well, but i want to do everything in one shot... i know i need the strut bearing (#2) & strut mount (#7), but do i need to replace the spring seat (#8) or the rubber stop for shock absorber (#3) as well??? also, can i re-use the old hex nut/ threaded bushing (#6) & the strut stop itself (#4) or do i need to replace everything? I'm kinda low on cash so I'm trying to not throw away money i don't have.
> 
> Thanks all! I need to do this asap, this weekend the latest ... :banghead:


Do the control arm bushings and if you can ball joints and tie rods while you're there. These will firm up the steering again but will not really make the ride smoother. The spring seat should be checked, it wouldn't hurt to replace it but usually you hear a loud clunking sound while turning at slow speeds if it's bad. I would replace the strut stop if it's stock. I'm sure the hex nuts can be reused if money's an issue. If it's really uncomfortable over bumps then the issue is probably your shocks themselves... if you shove down with all your weight a one corner of the car does it keep shaking up and down or does it stop right away? That's an easy test to see if your shocks are doing their job.


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## whos_jonny (Nov 11, 2008)

*Right Tie rod end measurement...*

G60 Corrado question

So I'm re-installing the R. tie rod end and I didn't measure before I took off the old one....in Bentley it says the L. tie rod end measures 14.94in from the steering rack. Is the measurement the same on the R. side? I count approx. 14 exposed threads on the L. side tie rod with end installed (which I didn't mess with)- is it safe to count the same number of threads on the right side? It's driving me crazy because every time I have to remove a tie rod end I destroy the old one in the process by tearing the boot. Please help.


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## genoentchev123 (Apr 15, 2007)

Slider388 said:


> Do the control arm bushings and if you can ball joints and tie rods while you're there. These will firm up the steering again but will not really make the ride smoother. The spring seat should be checked, it wouldn't hurt to replace it but usually you hear a loud clunking sound while turning at slow speeds if it's bad. I would replace the strut stop if it's stock. I'm sure the hex nuts can be reused if money's an issue. If it's really uncomfortable over bumps then the issue is probably your shocks themselves... if you shove down with all your weight a one corner of the car does it keep shaking up and down or does it stop right away? That's an easy test to see if your shocks are doing their job.


I already did the ball joints and outer tie rods less than a year ago (although the car/wheel does have a tendency to continue to turn in the direction i'm turning sometimes, [like i turn it 3/4 of a turn and as soon as i let the clutch out, it starts turning more, even without a hand on the wheel] so maybe i need to do the inner tie rod too) but the ones i replaced should still be good... and i notice that when i cut the wheel all the way to left and am making a tight circle u-turn, the car makes a very slight noise, kinda clunking like you said, so i'm thinking that the spring seat is going as well (is the spring seat metal or rubber, can't tell from pics some look one way, some look the other, not sure if its both)... and by strut stop do you mean the metal piece on top of the body under the hood? (#4 in the exploded view) 

As far as the test of the shocks go, i pushed all my weight down on all 4 corner (i'm 6' 3" and about 250lbs, maybe more lol) and the car came back up and bounced once in the front (push down, came back up hard, then very slight dip down again and then it rested), in the back there was less travel, but i want to replace my suspension and get coilovers eventually anyway, so i don't think i should get new shocks, especially considering the car is fantastic and responsive on smooth roads, but its terrible over bumps, its not just a little bumpy when i hit the bumps, i feel the whole car shake and it is extremely rough, its painful.... 

so replace #4, #7, #2, & #8 on this sheet and pop in new control arm bushings? that should smooth it out? (easier said than done) http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c324/genoentchev123/awesomesauce_zpshr0ikrf5.png


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

Front spring seats are metal, and if they're not rotted out will be fine. Rear spring seats have rubber inserts; fronts don't.
It sounds like you have alignment issues. The wheel continuing to turn when you let it go is a pointer in that direction.
The klunks when the wheel is fully turned could be outer CV's.
Your motor mounts OK? Front isn't broken off the crossmember? If the engine gets bouncing around under the hood it will make you think your suspension is falling apart.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

whos_jonny said:


> G60 Corrado question
> 
> So I'm re-installing the R. tie rod end and I didn't measure before I took off the old one....in Bentley it says the L. tie rod end measures 14.94in from the steering rack. Is the measurement the same on the R. side? I count approx. 14 exposed threads on the L. side tie rod with end installed (which I didn't mess with)- is it safe to count the same number of threads on the right side? It's driving me crazy because every time I have to remove a tie rod end I destroy the old one in the process by tearing the boot. Please help.


Tie rod adjustment sets the toe. Sounds like you're going to need an alignment when all is finished. Or you can do it yourself - there's a thread here somewhere that shows how.


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

I recommend getting a professional to align it.. At least then you won't wear out tires or have the car pull.


Sent from my iPhone 5 3/4 using Tapatalk


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## genoentchev123 (Apr 15, 2007)

theprf said:


> Front spring seats are metal, and if they're not rotted out will be fine. Rear spring seats have rubber inserts; fronts don't.
> It sounds like you have alignment issues. The wheel continuing to turn when you let it go is a pointer in that direction.
> The klunks when the wheel is fully turned could be outer CV's.
> Your motor mounts OK? Front isn't broken off the crossmember? If the engine gets bouncing around under the hood it will make you think your suspension is falling apart.


front motor mount was just recently replaced, engine is finally planted down (after denting the hood from jumping up into it :banghead::banghead: )

I definitely need an alignment, i never did it after ball joint and tie rods, that i know, hopefully that fixes the magic steering. and you may be right about the outer CV, i remember tearing one of the boots when i did the ball joints/ tie rod ends, maybe the CV joint is starting to dry out and making noise when turned... thanks a lot guys, I think im just going to get the strut bushing & strut bearing and re-use everything else assuming its not rotted out/bent/shot.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

*transmission question*

So, my 90 G60 has devleolped a small grind going into second gear. Now my first reaction was synchro, and further research confirmed it as the likely culprit. The question I have here is there has been a few other bugs in the tranny. Sometimes, it won't shift into first without double clutching. There is no grinding noise, nothing just a kind of wall it hits. Also with second, if I shift it into second slowly, no problems smooth as silk, but fast creates a kind of grinding noise. the other gears with maybe the exception of fifth feel a little rough as well. 

My question is, am I looking at doing a complete rebuild and if so what kit would you guys recommend. The second question regards the Transmission fluid. How often should this be changed (if at all) on a corrado? I haven't ever changed it and there are about 135k miles on the engine and tranny. If this needs to be changed, could it be causing these noises? Thanks in advance for any help.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Sometimes, it won't shift into first without double clutching.


I'd suspect the clutch slave or master cylinder, first, before pointing the finger at the trans... if you sit with the engine running, in gear, with the clutch in, does the car start creeping because one of the clutch cylinders is leaky and the clutch is bleeding off?


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

theprf said:


> I'd suspect the clutch slave or master cylinder, first, before pointing the finger at the trans... if you sit with the engine running, in gear, with the clutch in, does the car start creeping because one of the clutch cylinders is leaky and the clutch is bleeding off?


That's a good question, it will not creep slowly when just sitting there, but I will test it again. I only was thinking the synchro because the clutch doesn't feel any different from the last 2 years.


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## genoentchev123 (Apr 15, 2007)

@ArchAngel4: 

if its all original, it may just be old synchros, second grinding definitely sounds like its the synchro... for first: if you hold the clutch down for a while (15 seconds while stationary without touching the gas) does it make it easier to go into first? if so, that may be an indicator that your first gear synchro is also going, holding clutch for a while lets the tranny stop spinning, making the 1st gear synchro's job a lot easier... if you're going to take the tranny out, do a rebuild and replace 1st & 2nd synchros for sure, and anything else you can afford, it's all out anyway, might as well do it all... I'm not familiar with kits though, i took my 93 SLC to a VW Focused shop and let them do it. (you know the type, the shop with 5 VW buses, 10 beetles, and a scirocco or two in the back of the lot)

also, trans oil should be changed, i don't like that myth that it never needs to be changed.... it does, just as with all fluids for good maintenance, its just not as frequently needed as with the others. Small metal shavings of bushings and gears end up getting into the fluid (especially if the gears are grinding) and contaminate the fluid. (luckily the drain plug is usually magnetic so it catches the majority of these shavings) Also, extreme use/wear/banging gears will heat up and scorch the fluid over time, it's a good idea to change it about every 50K if its a regularly used car, you CAN go much longer than that, but it's a good idea to do it, your trans will be in better condition, or at the least, no worse and a bit cleaner. It does help... Sidenote: my co-workers old 1992 Oldsmobile 88 (automatic) had 225K on the clock with the original auto trans, and he changed the fluid and filter every 15K miles and it literally shifted perfectly, you would think it was a new car/trans if you drove it, i even bought it from him to drive while the corrado was having its trans done. he's a mechanical engineer and does preventative maintenance to all his 3/4 cars and they all run like new.


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## austin028 (Oct 16, 2014)

*Interior question*

Is there at all a place online where I can order the plastic pins that secure the rear interior panels in place? My rear panels are starting to come off with the plastic pins being worn out.


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## TxJet98 (Jun 29, 2012)

austin028 said:


> Is there at all a place online where I can order the plastic pins that secure the rear interior panels in place? My rear panels are starting to come off with the plastic pins being worn out.


My local auto parts store has a section full of these parts (not exactly the same, but very similar).


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

Is the b4 sunroof assembly in the wagon the same as the sedan? I found one I want to buy from a b4 wagon.
Saint Gobain, 43R-001090 B4
DOT27M24610AS3


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## clintg60-16v (Dec 13, 2002)

The assemblies are the same.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Any links to the repair kit for the Passat sunroofs? Thanks


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

How does the flat piece of Lamin-x cover the 3 protruding dimples on the headlights? Does it stretch over without heat, need heat or need cutting around them?


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

JDCorrado said:


> How does the flat piece of Lamin-x cover the 3 protruding dimples on the headlights? Does it stretch over without heat, need heat or need cutting around them?


Ecodes don't have those dimples


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

blackslcchild said:


> Any links to the repair kit for the Passat sunroofs? Thanks


Sorry I thought the repair kit was just another mk3/b4 track from the junkyard


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## Inkarnata (Nov 26, 2001)

JDCorrado said:


> How does the flat piece of Lamin-x cover the 3 protruding dimples on the headlights? Does it stretch over without heat, need heat or need cutting around them?


The Lamin-x I got, was USDM specific, and had cutouts for the dimples.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

Thanks :beer:


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## xxxunixxx (Apr 29, 2008)

*G60 Speedo Cable*

Hi, 

I recently picked up a 1990 G60 1.8 with a broken speedo. upon further inspection I realized that the speedo cable was missing. I ordered a used replacement online and now that it's arrived I'm at a loss. I'm fairly competent in the garage, I've made the investment in the Bentley manual as well. This car is unfamiliar territory for me. 


What am I missing? I know I need a speedo drive gear, all the ones online seem to only be the gear. Help please!


The speedometer



















The cable










The Transmission


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

The above thread is double posted.

It's growing over here now: *90 G60 [Project] WACO*


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## xxxunixxx (Apr 29, 2008)

petethepug said:


> The above thread is double posted.
> 
> It's growing over here now: *90 G60 [Project] WACO*


Sorry, I thought this was an ask the expert thread. The referenced post is a build thread with more postings around the life of the project, not just one minor hiccup I'm stumped on.


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## CORRADOG60YELLOW (Mar 13, 2014)

*Hesitation under hard accel*

Alright,
I have installed a 68 mm pulley, 3.5 bar regulator and stage 3 chip
Car runs light a bat out of hell till 3/4 throttle then in goes flat and seems to have a pulsing hesitation. If I back out of the throttle just a little, she takes off again.
Has anyone see this before?
Do I need to cam it as well ?
Thanx


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Haven't been here in a while (good thing) anyways, I recently noticed that my brake lights don't work anymore. The actual lights do light up along with the rest but when I press the brake pedal the lights don't light up as normal. They just light on as primary without the secondary brake light.
I checked the fuses for slot 7, 8, and 20.....they all are in working order checked the bulbs and holders and they look good.
Help!


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

Brake switch


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

Wasn't there a DIY thread about fixing a broken cable end thing (insert technical term here) for the power windows? I can't find it anywhere and I'm getting really sick of blue painters' tape holding my window up. I seem to remember reading about someone using copper or SS tubing as a replacement for the plastic sleeves, but I can't remember if it was on VWV or CCC. Thanks!


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

jaweber said:


> Wasn't there a DIY thread about fixing a broken cable end thing (insert technical term here) for the power windows? I can't find it anywhere and I'm getting really sick of blue painters' tape holding my window up. I seem to remember reading about someone using copper or SS tubing as a replacement for the plastic sleeves, but I can't remember if it was on VWV or CCC. Thanks!


It was on here last year, had a small socket slotted up the side and welded in place.


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

theprf said:


> It was on here last year, had a small socket slotted up the side and welded in place.


*Edit, found a couple different ones, no pics but I get the idea


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Dimmu said:


> Brake switch


Fixed it! That switch was burnt My man .


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## Dorrado (Dec 12, 2001)

Hello,

I am having some serious idling issues with my OBD2 Vr6 (it was OBD1 that has been swapped to OBD2). I am currently running the OBD2 C2 42# setup and ever since I swapped to OBD2 it has not idled correctly. It starts right away and idles at about 900rpms (idles rich though) and then after it warms up it idles at 1300-1400 and very rich.

Video - 




You can hear the idle change at 0:58 and whenever I blip the throttle (like at 1:45) after this point the rpms drop and then bump back up to 1400ish (there is also a nice cloud of exhaust from running so rich)

Here is what I have checked/replaced:
New spark plugs
New blue coolant sensor
New camshaft position sensor
New MAF
Tried different ecu (same idle problem)

There are no codes when I scan it. I am at a loss for what could be causing this. I have ordered a new crank position sensor and will be replacing that. Any suggestions on where to look next?

Thanks


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Where are you running your o2 sensors? Rear of the down pipe and cat or both in the cat?


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

You getting O2 activity? Have SAI solenoid plugged in?


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## Dorrado (Dec 12, 2001)

need_a_VR6 said:


> You getting O2 activity? Have SAI solenoid plugged in?


There are no codes for O2 sensor or for the SAI. The SAI has been removed and hole plugged.



petethepug said:


> Where are you running your o2 sensors? Rear of the down pipe and cat or both in the cat?


Just running one O2 sensor in the downpipe, there is no cat.

maybe the O2 sensor is fouled up enough that it isnt working properly but isnt throwing a code? (the C2 chip removes the SAI and second O2 sensor i believe)

thanks for the ideas, will mess around with the O2 sensor since you both mentioned that.


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## Dorrado (Dec 12, 2001)

need_a_VR6 said:


> You getting O2 activity? Have SAI solenoid plugged in?


i just went back through some of your old posts and saw you mentioned that "You can't remove/unplug the solenoid, otherwise fuel trims are disabled. Vac lines can be deleted." 

so maybe i need to have the solenoid plugged in even though all other parts are removed?

thanks again for the help


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Dorrado said:


> Just running one O2 sensor in the downpipe, there is no cat. Maybe the O2 sensor is fouled up enough that it isnt working properly but isnt throwing a code? (the C2 chip removes the SAI and second O2 sensor (i believe) thanks for the ideas, will mess around with the O2 sensor since you both mentioned that.


Take a read on the OBD II swap that Dennis did. Use control+F and enter key word "idle". You get to the meat of o2 matters quickly. Since you're running boost, I would add that 2nd o2 sensor with a spacer like this one.

http://www.42draftdesigns.com/O2-Sensor-Spacer_p_306.html

http://corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5880

It's a known issue to have wonky things happen on high flow exhaust/turbo systems and OBD2. I'm pretty sure your o2 is confused as sh!t without the other o2 sensor.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Dorrado said:


> i j
> 
> so maybe i need to have the solenoid plugged in even though all other parts are removed?
> 
> thanks again for the help


Yes, need the solenoid.


----------



## blue72beetle (Dec 15, 2003)

Are gray interiors fairly rare?


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

blue72beetle said:


> Are gray interiors fairly rare?


I would say yes, I have the only 93+ gray cloth interior I have ever personally seen. There is another Classic Green 93+ for sale on the forum right now with gray cloth heated seats (I haven't seen it - pictures look nice!).

Someone in San Diego was selling gray leather seats from a 92 which I never knew existed and would be my dream interior. Torsten on the forum has a gray leather 93+ car, though he's in Germany.
Seems like tan leather was the most common on SLC's and black/red dot cloth on G60's.


----------



## Almost1 (Nov 3, 2010)

I have gray/white dot in my 92 SLC. I was thinking the gray interior was common and I would be able to find a drivers door card but apparently its going to be more of a challenge


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Guys, I've been having this issue. the car has a hesitation/bucking/misfire whenever I hit 70 miles and hour.

While in neutral, I rev the car up to 7,000 rpm's and there is no sign of misfire or any sort of cutout. 

I just replaced the fuel pump and i still have this issue. It revs perfectly and drives awesome up until I start to hit 70 miles an hour.

Car doesn't give me any codes. All 4's.......


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

Bring it to my house Sunday. I'll check it out. Just bring good beer.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I'll text you^^^


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Bump


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Vss signal to ecu missing can cause odd symptoms like that.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

*"high speed not attainable".*

That's exactly what Bentley describes as the symptom for a bad hall sensor at the dizzy: "high speed not attainable". Don't know if your coil pack or dizzy though. 



blackslcchild said:


> Guys, I've been having this issue. the car has a hesitation/bucking/misfire whenever I hit 70 miles and hour.
> 
> While in neutral, I rev the car up to 7,000 rpm's and there is no sign of misfire or any sort of cutout.
> 
> ...


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

I'm distributor at the moment. 
Wouldn't it send me a signal for the hall sender? #2113? I've driven the car a couple hundred miles and no codes POp up.........all 4's


----------



## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Man....


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

Getting complaints on my exhaust noise from my family and neighbors :laugh: Low frequency rumbling loud noise with no leaks in pipes.
SS Exhaust was installed in the late 90's, 2.25" pipes, with CAT, mid-muffler deleted, with a straight-through rear muffler.
Previous owner just states it is Auto-Tech Exhaust...Here is a photo of the muffler.
Any recommendations for a tuned sounding muffler? The 90's muffler has about 10,000 miles on it.


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## vetsvw (Apr 20, 2015)

*VCBS scanner for a 1993 VR6 distributed Corrado*

OK, after getting Jack Shapiro to build me a new computer for my 93, my tech put it in and still no go. Seems like the only real way to assess the situation is using the old school VCBS scanner. So, I found a place that rents them and got it today. But....it's only good for 1996 and up!

The providing company has no suggestions on where to get one for a 1993 and an internet search is disappointing too. I have a line out to Jack for his thoughts but I thought I would also ask here. This is super frustrating!

Thanks for any help,
Patrick

PS, I have fuel pressure and power to the crank and other sensors, just not to the injectors (per the mechanic). I honestly am still worried that the fuel is stale after sitting for about a year, but I am far from an expert.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

You can scan with vag com if you buy (or borrow) the 2x2 adapter. 

Run through the gas or put drygas or heet in and see if it helps. Usually bad fuel has worse symptoms though.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

No codes still, all 4's. I remember when I had a bad dizzy and the cables to the hall sender were thrashed, it gave me a code for it though.....


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

Dude. I've been telling you for 2 years in a row. All of your problems will be solved when you switch to obd2. Sucka


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Yeah.


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## VWcorrado1994 (Jun 14, 2012)

So i replaced my e brake cable and the guide tube that goes through underneath the car is broken.
Is it recomended that i replace it? If so where can i buy them


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

There is an update for that tube.. You can get them at the dealer still. It's a tad bit longer but it will work. Not too sure on the part number. Someone will chime in with it. Reason I know.. I just did them on my mk3.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

Dimmu said:


> There is an update for that tube.. You can get them at the dealer still. It's a tad bit longer but it will work. Not too sure on the part number. Someone will chime in with it. Reason I know.. I just did them on my mk3.


Dubnutz shows these for about $35:
http://www.tdnparts.com/guide-tube-...-body/?page_context=category&faceted_search=0
Part Numbers: 1h0711951B,1h0711952C 

And the set of cables: http://www.tdnparts.com/brake-cable...-disc/?page_context=category&faceted_search=0
Part No.: 1HM 609 721 A(2)


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## denzil_wasson (Jun 3, 2009)

*What are these and where do they go*

Have Bentley, Did search. 93 SLC. Replacing OEM antenna. These fell out when removing the rear roof trim to get to the antenna. I can't find the part numbers and I can't figure out where they came from. Part numbers are: 763-684-959 and 763-684-960. Picture below. Where do these belong? Thanks!


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Those came off the ends of the sunroof tracks. They're not in the stamm because they're not considered a replacement part (assembly)). The sunroof won't care if they're there or not.:thumbup:


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## denzil_wasson (Jun 3, 2009)

mateok said:


> Those came off the ends of the sunroof tracks.
> 
> Thank You Mateok - You came through as usual! :thumbup:


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Where did you go mateok?


----------



## MexicanPsycho (Apr 10, 2004)

I recently had to reseal the upper timing chain cover on my 93 rado cause it had a major oil leak. Took the tensioner bolt and the timing cover out without timing the engine or cams I've done it before so I didn't think much of it.

As I was cleaning the lower timing cover from all the caked oil I managed to move the chain which caused the front cam to move a little. I ended up with slack on the front side of the chain so I pushed the tensioner forward and moved it back enough. All of the slack was now on the tensioner side. I put the timing cover back on, bled the tensioner bolt and installed it.

Just to be safe I rotated the crank by hand to tdc and aligned the mark on the flywheel(I don't have a timing mark on the crank pulley)
Now I can't get the cams to line up correctly they're way off. I tried rotating the engine a couple times but they don't line up.

My question is can I remove the cam sprocket, line up the cams and slip the chain back on? Does it matter if the #1 cylinder is at tdc on the compression or exhaust stroke? Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

I've found the marks on the flywheel to be suspect at best. Why don't you have a mark on the crank pulley? It's a tiny little V on the inner lip.
You can figure out TDC on #1 by pulling the sparkplug and putting in a wooden rod of some sort. Turn the engine until the wood stops going up. That's either TDC on compression (which you want) or TDC on exhaust (which you don't want). If the #1 cam lobes are pointing mostly UP that's TDC on compression. Then see if your flywheel mark is anything like close.


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## MexicanPsycho (Apr 10, 2004)

theprf said:


> I've found the marks on the flywheel to be suspect at best. Why don't you have a mark on the crank pulley? It's a tiny little V on the inner lip.
> You can figure out TDC on #1 by pulling the sparkplug and putting in a wooden rod of some sort. Turn the engine until the wood stops going up. That's either TDC on compression (which you want) or TDC on exhaust (which you don't want). If the #1 cam lobes are pointing mostly UP that's TDC on compression. Then see if your flywheel mark is anything like close.


Thanks for the reply, early vr motors don't have a mark on the crank pulley. Even on the Bentley it only shows the timing mark at the flywheel. I did get the flywheel lined up and the #1 cylinder at TDC today. Cams are still off specially the shorter cam.

Should I remove the tensioner bolt and timing cover again and try to move the cams back? I'm wondering if I can do this without taking off the cam sprocket. I do have the cam lock tool I'm just trying to line the cams up again.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

I think you can work the chain over the cam sprockets one link at a time. How's the intermediate sprocket? If that's off too you'll never get the cams lined up.


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## MexicanPsycho (Apr 10, 2004)

Ended up pulling the tensioner and timing chain cover with the block at TDC. I had enough slack on the chain to slip it off the sprocket without removing them and timed the cams back and set the lock tool in place. Turned the crank twice and sure enough it was dead on:thumbup:
Bolted it back together and it started right up, feels like its running better now pulls harder


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Didn't you have a supercharger? ^^^


----------



## TanquerayXIV (Jul 13, 2015)

*Co Pot Plug Connector Wiring*

Replaced OEM intercooler tubes with metal. Upon removing Co Pot sensor, I realized that two of the wires in the plug were severed right at the connection. What is the best solution? Splice in new plug? Or can I take apart the old plug and rewire? Should I even worry about it? Idle seems to be hunting and car is running rich.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

TanquerayXIV said:


> Replaced OEM intercooler tubes with metal. Upon removing Co Pot sensor, I realized that two of the wires in the plug were severed right at the connection. What is the best solution? Splice in new plug? Or can I take apart the old plug and rewire? Should I even worry about it? Idle seems to be hunting and car is running rich.


You can rock it without the sensor, but you'll be running off a stored map that's telling the ECU it's 113*F outside and CO content that'll make it increase injector duration. In other words, your car will run pig rich - the G60's natural habitat. 

De-pin the offending wires from the connector and either get repair wires or new terminal ends.


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## Seis (Apr 2, 2003)

*Rhythmic drop in power / bucking bronco syndrome (distributor rotor?)*

Car was down for maybe 7 years. Back up last year and driven for maybe 2 months before being garaged again for 8, everything ran great after getting all the bad gas back through it. 

Then an issue started where while driving power would cut in a _rhythmic_ fashion. Not a stutter, not a miss, but an actual "onnnn offf onnnn off onnn offf." Fine and dandy if you're in 5th gear cruising at 50, slightly more of a bother in 1st gear with poly motor mounts making the car feel like it's trying to do a somersault.

I garaged the thing again maybe 8 months ago when it almost stranded me running like an absolute madman cutting in and out every 15 seconds, but believe I traced that to a ground strap that was swinging free in the breeze.

Things recently replaced:

Spark Plugs
Plug Wires
Fuel Filter
ECU & Fuel Pump relay
Majority of vacuum lines
Cleaned MAF
Cleaned ISV
All 3 sensors in water pump housing

Recently (yesterday) cleaned all the build-up off of the distributor rotor and cap and haven't been able to reproduce the "On Off On Off" problem just yet, but don't feel I've driven the car far enough / long enough to assume that was it. 

At this point just looking for input on possible causes of the "On Off On Off On Off" syndrome, keeping in mind it's rhythmic once it occurs but occurs seemingly randomly. Could it just have been a bad / filthy dizzy rotor? What sort of symptoms would a bad distributor rotor cause? Is this more likely a faulty sensor or electrical gremlin?

** I am yet to try driving the car with either the MAF or the O2 sensor unplugged, that's on today's agenda.


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

How similar are the cat back exhausts from a G60 and a B4 Passat sedan?


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## TanquerayXIV (Jul 13, 2015)

mateok said:


> You can rock it without the sensor, but you'll be running off a stored map that's telling the ECU it's 113*F outside and CO content that'll make it increase injector duration. In other words, your car will run pig rich - the G60's natural habitat.
> 
> De-pin the offending wires from the connector and either get repair wires or new terminal ends.


Thanks mateok! Do I need a special tool to de-pin? Is there something you would recommend?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

TanquerayXIV said:


> Thanks mateok! Do I need a special tool to de-pin? Is there something you would recommend?


No special tools required. Unless you want to drop some coin on a master terminal set? This makes your life easier if you're a mechanic whereas time is money. 








I would actually recommend a $1 micro screwdriver set. Grab the smallest flathead from the set and push it into the rectangle openings above and below the terminal. Your goal is to push the barbs down on either side, so it slides out the back of the connector. Sometimes they're stubborn and you'll need to tap the back of the screwdriver with a hammer, or whatever's within reach.:beer:


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3165463-lets-talk-about-brake-pressure-accumulators

I need this asap!
My brake pedal keeps stiffing up.
Back and fourth.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

mateok said:


> No special tools required. Unless you want to drop some coin on a master terminal set? This makes your life easier if you're a mechanic whereas time is money.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



The terminal tools aren't _that _expensive:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/Terminal_Tools/ES11414/

I don't have this set, mine is from a different company (also German) that I haven't been able to find in the USA or on eBay except for isolated individual pieces. If it's like my set, they work great, but the blades are easy to bend. 

I used small jeweler's screwdrivers before and had some success, but usually ended up destroying the terminals by bending the tabs until they released. The terminal tools will depress both sides at once. You still have to wiggle the connector and tool, but they usual pop apart unharmed.

If this is this is the only time you will do this use a screwdriver. You have to replace the terminals anyway.

And no, I am not a shill for ECS and I don't work for them. I just happen to know they sell this set. I haven't bought it, but am considering it because it's way less expensive than the set I did buy several years ago.

Oh, Snap-On sells a multi-tool for terminals but the tool didn't have the size I needed at the time. 

Eric


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## madonion (May 1, 2007)

how do I remove the small grid in the brake fluid reservoir ? I need to clean it .The reservoir is possibly from a MK2 since it's a non abs conversion. there seems to be a trick to get it out. I've tried to remove it but decided to stop because I though I was going to brake it.


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## Wompa (Oct 30, 2009)

I changed the top mounts to Lemförder mounts... and the damn things started to stick up again! 
And the feel in the front i stiff and harsh again!

Is the Meyle HD mounts the way to go?

I use H&R Sport shocks with 40/60 drops....


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Can someone help me out?
I need a new abs pressure accumulator. 
What's the solution that is available? I know they are obsolete and the inside sealant usually go bad in 8 years.


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## ml1986 (Apr 27, 2012)

I need to replace my fuse/relay block, can I use one from MK3 Golf? (Corrado G60)


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

ml1986 said:


> I need to replace my fuse/relay block, can I use one from MK3 Golf? (Corrado G60)


Yes. The CE2 fusebox doesn't care what car it's in.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

blackslcchild said:


> Can someone help me out?
> I need a new abs pressure accumulator.
> What's the solution that is available? I know they are obsolete and the inside sealant usually go bad in 8 years.


You are in a hot climate? Buy a used one from a cold climate car... I've had the original one on my green Corrado since new, presumably the original on my red Corrado. Both are fine still. New England is a cold climate (just not today). I replaced the accumulator on my purple Corrado which I brought from Tampa with a used one and it's working great.

I am sure that there's a Land Rover accumulator that is still in production that would work, just need to find matching threads on the fittings.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Yeah, I'm in Phoenix, az with weather of 115*! 
I've been on the lookout for one but no dice.
Which Range Rover is compatible?


----------



## austin028 (Oct 16, 2014)

*Power drop*

I had something similar happen. Turns out there was an exposed ground wire from the ignition coil touching the head of the engine.


----------



## JCab (Jul 20, 2014)

Trying to ID a noise, low pitched "howl" when steering left while going anywhere over 15 mph or so. Vibration when turning right at the same speed. Front wheel bearing? I replaced the axle recently but I did torque the wheel bearing to the right spec.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

JCab said:


> Trying to ID a noise, low pitched "howl" when steering left while going anywhere over 15 mph or so. Vibration when turning right at the same speed. Front wheel bearing? I replaced the axle recently but I did torque the wheel bearing to the right spec.


If the vibration goes away while braking it's definitely the wheel bearing. Braking lets the caliper stabilize the bad bearing. When I have removed an axle on an old wheel bearing (say more than 4 or 5 years old) I have a 50% chance of that bearing going bad within a month or so, even if I carefully retorque it after.


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## JCab (Jul 20, 2014)

Okay yeah I figured..I hope this wheel bearing won't be too bad of a job as I start school Monday and my Rado is my daily! Today on my way to work I got less than a mile away from my house and the axle went... As I spun the rotor (front end in the air) the inner joint right next to where it goes into the transmission was spinning in there


----------



## modeliuks (Sep 14, 2013)

I was just doing some electrical stuff and i found this line. Where does it go? It's the one with white line.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

modeliuks said:


> I was just doing some electrical stuff and i found this line. Where does it go? It's the one with white line.


This is wrong -> I think it's that main vacuum source that runs the heat/defrost flaps. It connects to a tiny fitting that's above the two heater hose connections. Look from the engine side and you'll see the vacuum line.

See below!


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

modeliuks said:


> I was just doing some electrical stuff and i found this line. Where does it go? It's the one with white line.


That goes to the fresh air servo. It's what closes the flap to fresh air when you get behind an old diesel Merc. Number 4 in the picture.


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## TrashWang (Jul 19, 2013)

I stopped myself from making a thread because I wouldn't get the 'answers' i want.
I hope someone lurking can understand what i am going to explain, otherwise i will have to get a video of it somehow.
I have searched around and found this thread
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7168444-Puzzled-The-chump-is-stumped
so i will check that tomorrow I suppose, but i don't think it would affect camber.

Anyways, I have a 93 vr6 with about 110000 miles with suspension issues. It had sat from the start winter last year until about July of this year.
I don't know how to word it so I am just going to list the problems I had in order, and what i did at the time.

the steering feel through the wheels is very loose, there's not any play in the tie rods but I can feel it walk around like something is loose.
I started by replacing the top strut mounts which were dry rotted and cracked with HD mounts and new bearings, which doesn't seem possible to do wrong.
the new top bushings made it feel a little better, but it will still pull the wheel out of my hand and sit with an odd amount of camber after driving it.
I had the front wheels off and had checked the strut clamp bolt torque to make sure it wasn't just swinging about.
at this time i had noticed the control arm bushings were split completely apart allowing a lot of play. They were replaced and the bolts torqued to 96 ft lbs (the passenger front bolt is a pain in the ass)
I was really hoping this was the problem with the constantly adjusting camber and caster, but it was not.
Now i am to the point where the front end doesn't walk about but it will still pull the wheel around in my hand, and when i park i will have odd amounts of camber on each side
my ball joints are not blown apart.
I obviously am not driving the car like this because it has already started to unevenly wear my tire in <100 miles

i will probably completely pull the strut out and pull the top mount off to see what the problem is or if i incorrectly installed them.
the top mount is the only thing i can think of that would be causing this weird of a problem.

I am not trying to cheap out here, I dont think just getting an alignment will fix this because it seems to keep wobbling, I could try to knock some more camber into it but that doesnt seem like a fix at all.
Also, being at the limit of frustration, where I can fix everyone elses car, but can't fix mine because i don't know what it's doing.


TL;DR
I have replaced the front strut top bushings and control arm bushings, but still have odd camber/caster issues.
most all simple ideas have been checked besides the top mount.


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## SCIROCCO SPEED (Dec 6, 2002)

*FV-QR*

There's a few things that could be wrong, however, to save time and energy, i would suggest taking it to a reputable alignment shop, since it sounds like you are going to need an alignment anyway. Be honest with them and ask them to do a thorough front end inspection, make a list of thing that need to be fixed, and tell them you'll be back for the alignment after you do the repairs. Some shops will charge you, some shops will do the inspection for free. The shop i used to work at charged $15 for an inspection, but if we did the alignment that day it was waived.


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Regarding the rear motor mount. The left one is new, the right one is a year old. Same part number.
Should i be concerned about the 1/2 cm height difference?
(fwiw, I do have a BBM solid front mount.)


----------



## riddie27 (Feb 26, 2015)

^^ I'm assuming the old one just collapsed that much over the course of the year.


----------



## Dreizehn (Nov 2, 2005)

Anyone here permanently block the passenger's side air vent (near the rain tray)? With very light rain, or even when I am washing the car, a **** load of water continues to get into the cabin on my passenger's side rug. The vent cover is seated properly, too. I'm interested to see who has had the same issue and how it was resolved.


----------



## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

Dreizehn said:


> Anyone here permanently block the passenger's side air vent (near the rain tray)? With very light rain, or even when I am washing the car, a **** load of water continues to get into the cabin on my passenger's side rug. The vent cover is seated properly, too. I'm interested to see who has had the same issue and how it was resolved.


Check you sunroof drain line on that said of the car. For me when I had leaking on the passenger side of the car that was the culprit. It was clogged so the rain wasn't able to flow, so the water just ran down the outside of that line down inside the a pillar into the compartment.

Might not be your problem, but its something else to check.

If your sure that the problem is in the rain tray, check for the drain hole that should be there. The vent hole is elevated a bit so water would have to be pooling there in order to spill into that vent.





riddie27 said:


> ^^ I'm assuming the old one just collapsed that much over the course of the year.


That was my first thought, but that seems like an awful lot of wear for just one year considering the car was only driven a few times a week.


----------



## modeliuks (Sep 14, 2013)

Hello. Now I have a dilemma. My 91 Corrado G60 has unknown history so I guess I need to rebuild a G-lader but parts for rebuild from BBM would cost me about 500euros(including shipping, tax, ect...) while I can get 92 Passat vr6(whole car) for the same price. Is it worth to swap G60 to VR6 from passat? And the thing is that I could get some money back selling the passat parts.


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## cyberstasi (Apr 20, 2010)

modeliuks said:


> Hello. Now I have a dilemma. My 91 Corrado G60 has unknown history so I guess I need to rebuild a G-lader but parts for rebuild from BBM would cost me about 500euros(including shipping, tax, ect...) while I can get 92 Passat vr6(whole car) for the same price. Is it worth to swap G60 to VR6 from passat? And the thing is that I could get some money back selling the passat parts.



Depends on what's more important to you. The Vr6 swap will def take more time than rebuilding a charger, and it a lot more work. But if you can sell parts off the Passat, then you'll spend less money. This is of course assuming the Vr6 doesnt need any work; for instance do you know when the timing chains were replaced last? If you get a Vr with unknown history... you're still in the same boat. Anyone can say 'oh yea it runs well', but seriously how often do people say 'it runs like ****' when they want to sell a car. If the person can't provide receipts for shop work or parts that they've installed themselves... dont be quick to believe work they may have claimed to do.

So it really comes down to a few questions which only you can answer.

1) Which is of more importance, lower cost or quicker repair time.

2) Vr6 vs G60 

As for #2, this is a question which has raged on in the community for years and it wont stop. It's all down to personal preference. I personally prefer a G60, one of my good friends prefers the Vr6. When it comes to driving and tuning we each have our own views and preferences which lead us to different conclusions. No one can answer that question for you. Also keep in mind


----------



## TrashWang (Jul 19, 2013)

TrashWang said:


> I stopped myself from making a thread because I wouldn't get the 'answers' i want.
> I hope someone lurking can understand what i am going to explain, otherwise i will have to get a video of it somehow.
> I have searched around and found this thread
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7168444-Puzzled-The-chump-is-stumped
> ...


So i pulled my front coils and disassembled the top and the bearings fell apart, i had replacements and installed them. my problem now is that i think the way that I cranked my coils up with the bearing on put too much pressure on them or I have them together wrong.
Is too much pressure a thing that kills these bearings?


----------



## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

TrashWang said:


> So i pulled my front coils and disassembled the top and the bearings fell apart, i had replacements and installed them. my problem now is that i think the way that I cranked my coils up with the bearing on put too much pressure on them or I have them together wrong.
> Is too much pressure a thing that kills these bearings?


Don't know about coils, sorry. Did you replace the rear control arm bushings too? And yes the front bolt on the pass side control arm - let's just say :banghead:.

From your description you should be able to jack the car up, and pry on the suspension, and see things move. 
For example, is the subframe with the steering rack bolted down solidly? Is it broken? Is the steering rack bolted down solidly? Are the mounts to your coils where they attach to the knuckles broken? Are the knuckle to strut bolts the right size? Is one of the strut rods bent? Ball joints attached to the control arms securely?

Seriously, jack it up and pull one front wheel (don't use the tire changing jack for goodness sake). Bolt a long bar where the wheel goes. 3 or 4 or even 6 feet is not too long. Have someone pry on that bar in every direction while you watch to see what's moving.


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## TrashWang (Jul 19, 2013)

theprf said:


> Don't know about coils, sorry. Did you replace the rear control arm bushings too? And yes the front bolt on the pass side control arm - let's just say :banghead:.
> 
> From your description you should be able to jack the car up, and pry on the suspension, and see things move.
> For example, is the subframe with the steering rack bolted down solidly? Is it broken? Is the steering rack bolted down solidly? Are the mounts to your coils where they attach to the knuckles broken? Are the knuckle to strut bolts the right size? Is one of the strut rods bent? Ball joints attached to the control arms securely?
> ...


Haha, I haven't used a widowmaker in a long time, thanks though.
yes i did both control arm bushings too.
Anyways, I have inspected almost every part of the front suspension and checked the torque on the control arm and strut bolts, and yes my steering rack is still tight and doesn't move.
I am wondering if someone has had upper bearings go completely out on them and have had problems like this

I will pull it back apart in the next day or two and see if i can get anything to move on me, I might be able to use a lift on the weekend so hopefully i can have a solution by then.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

TrashWang said:


> I am wondering if someone has had upper bearings go completely out on them and have had problems like this


Never happened to me, if that means anything. How are the wheel bearings?


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## JCab (Jul 20, 2014)

Dreizehn said:


> Anyone here permanently block the passenger's side air vent (near the rain tray)? With very light rain, or even when I am washing the car, a **** load of water continues to get into the cabin on my passenger's side rug. The vent cover is seated properly, too. I'm interested to see who has had the same issue and how it was resolved.



If you still haven't solved this I just dealt with this problem. I'd wash the car or it would be outside overnight and sometimes find a literal puddle on my passenger floor, if not that, the carpet was always soaked. When you open your hood, On the passenger side in the rain tray lift up the plastic cover and on the left side along the "wall" that the fender makes with the rain tray there is a small drain hole, mine was clogged. I unclogged it and completely cleaned out the rain tray and now nothing gets in.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

JDCorrado:


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

*A/C Belt Routing*

I'm working on getting all the parts needed to install the G60 engine I purchased a year ago. 
It looks like the previous owner did a proper A/C compressor delete? 
However I plan to put it all back correct, I have a correct reman compressor but I guess I will need a water pump pulley also. I hadn't realized the compressor was deleted when I purchased the engine, I was so new to Corrados.
Comments welcome...


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

How similar are the exhausts from the cat back of a Passat TDI and a Corrado G60?


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Broke the passenger brake hardline 
Stupid soft 11mm nut didn't want to turn, I ended up rounding it off.

Any tips or tricks to get this done?
Don't want to screw it even more. 
I'm aiming at flaring the line but I can't find good fitting screw since the original piece looks like a bleeder valve.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Use a propane torch next time. Heat it up from above, so you don't melt the rubber hose below. You don't need a lot. Just get it hot and let it cool back down. I've freed hundreds of brake lines that way. A quality flare nut wrench, not Harbor Freight, also helps. 

You can't get a custom made line from VW. I have to make them from spools of line, flare and bend them myself. If you can install a cylinder head then you can easily make a brake line. If you want the VW parts:
111 611 998 - shorten to 440mm
WHT 000 078 - union nut
Keep in mind the minimum order is 5m, so you'll get around 16 feet and you only need about a foot and a half. 

ECS tuning sells brake lines in their "general" section already flared for a fraction of what VW charges. One VW nut costs more than an entire line from ECS. You'll still need to bend it, though. Just use the old one as a guide.:thumbup:


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Thanks mateok , you've always come out to help a fellow.

I took off the whole line and straighten the end side so I could throw one of these in.









Then I carefully "bubble" flared the end.

Put it all back together and bleed the system.
No leaks 🏽










I'll be on this rubber stock hose till the ss line gets here.
(It's been almost 2 weeks)


So far so good.


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## HumboldtCorrado (Jan 18, 2006)

blackslcchild said:


> So far so good.


you should probably get rid of that teflon tape on your brake fitting. i'm pretty sure brake fluid eats teflon tape, and it shouldn't be needed anyway...


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Yea, there's no need for Teflon tape. The flare is what does the sealing. The threads simply apply the mechanical pressure needed to seal the flare. As long as the flare is sealing the tape won't hurt anything, though. It'll leak immediately if the flare is bad or cracked, so you're good to go. Teflon tape is great for pipes and air lines because they lack a flare and the threads do the sealing.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Yeah, I'm not getting covered in brake fluid and bleeding the thing, for that little bit of Teflon.
I just wanted a good tight seal since I like to over tighten things.
Plus those aluminum threads.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

blackslcchild said:


> I'll be on this rubber stock hose till the ss line gets here.
> (It's been almost 2 weeks)
> So far so good.


If you drive that it's going to break off the steel line at the next bend - there's nothing holding the steel line in place so it will be moving with the suspension. Moving steel lines = breaking steel lines. Be prepared for a no brake situation.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Just got my ss line today^^^


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

When I swapped my original brake lines to SS, I noticed a slight improvement. LMK if you notice a difference. I went with ECS SS lines since the SS mesh has a protective layer. I still have the Mid-Lines for a 93+ VR (Brand New) if anybody can use them :beer: My '92 VR uses the same mid-lines as the G60.

Question for the experts: I have Never Used set of Auto-tech front SS lines from the Original Owner who bought them in the late 90's. Are they any good if they've been shelved that long in plastic?


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

JDCorrado said:


> I still have the Mid-Lines for a 93+ VR (Brand New) if anybody can use them :beer: My '92 VR uses the same mid-lines as the G60.


My February 1993 build 93+ (one of the first 93+) uses the G60 mid lines, too. Haven't looked at my April 1993 build 93+ car yet.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

blackslcchild said:


> Just got my ss line today^^^


Be sure to run the steel hard line through the bracket to keep it from flexing when you put the SS line in. That's even more important as the SS lines are lot stiffer than the rubber lines.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Absolutely^^^


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## GreatRedRad0 (Oct 16, 2006)

Is there any difference in Corrado rear bumpers from a 90 G60 and a 92 SLC?


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## c3k (May 1, 2006)

No I don't believe so. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Wasn't sure about this one because it seemed straight forward. 535807417F GRU ..same _rear_ bumper for all the Corrado. Good times thanks for VW Classic Parts. $1125. for the skin when in production. About $6H shipped from VW classic parts new 25 years later.


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## GreatRedRad0 (Oct 16, 2006)

Thanks guys, how about front bumpers? Whats a quick and easy way to tell if its a slc rather a g60 front bumper? 

Sent from my LG-F370L using Tapatalk


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

GreatRedRad0 said:


> Thanks guys, how about front bumpers? Whats a quick and easy way to tell if its a slc rather a g60 front bumper?


The G60 front bumper has a "line" that curls upwards above the side marker light.
The SLC front bumper the same line fades out in a straight line above the side marker light.

The pockets for the turns/fogs are also different.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

The SLC front cover is also wider to accommodate the Plus Suspension's wider fenders.


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## SCIROCCO SPEED (Dec 6, 2002)

When i got my corrado, the interior came in boxes, literally. After removing the automatic seatbelts and installing Euro/Canadian belts, i'm now moving on to the rest of the interior. Rear seats are ready to go in, but i found 2 plugs coming from both right and left side of the car. Anyone know what they go to? Sorry, i don't have a bentley on me at the moment. See pics below, oh and my little helper!


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## DaddyMassacre (Jul 29, 2010)

*small diameter Lug Bolts*

hello guys i finally got some updated wheels for my car and to my suprise wheels fit but the lug bolts dont fit, Lug bolts should have been the proper size needed even with the spacers but no go this is how the cone seat lug fits in the wheel... now i been told i needed cone seat, small diameter lug bolts is it true do they really make a difference? i been looking them up and they all seem about the same size so im very confuse and to be honest i rarely change wheels so i dont have much experience in the department


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

Take the bolt off and take the same picture.
Not sure but, looks like wobble bolts or tuner lug nuts is what you might have to run with these wheels.


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## DaddyMassacre (Jul 29, 2010)

this is the wheel without bolt and one of bolt in question, mind its an extended bolt for it was planned to run wheels with spacers on


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

I searched but couldn't find exactly what I was looking for. So in this post it is clear that the rocker needs the rubber ring on the Corrado Sunroof's. *Does the B4 Moonroof need a similar ring?* Mine seems to be sliding OK but there isn't any rubber ring at that location. So far, I've only manually cranked the B4 moonroof since I cleaned and lubed it in prep for the swap (not powered).

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...oof-cable-just-broke!!!&p=6082821#post6082821

Another interesting thing happened when I was manually cranking the moonroof glass up/down front and back. The Female Allen screw on the motor has a sprung pin in the middle that gets depressed when you insert the allen wrench. I found that when I was bringing the sunroof down for example, the pin sprung my allen wrench out when it got to the closed position. I had never read about that happening before. It seemed to happen at the full up and full back as well. :beer:


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

JDCorrado;89436034Does the B4 Moonroof need a smiliar ring?[/quote said:


> Yes.
> 
> 
> > Another interesting thing happened when I was manually cranking the moonroof glass up/down front and back. The Female Allen screw on the motor has a sprung pin in the middle that gets depressed when you insert the allen wrench. I found that when I was bringing the sunroof down for example, the pin sprung my allen wrench out when it got to the closed position. I had never read about that happening before. It seemed to happen at the full up and full back as well. :beer:


 Yes, that is where the internal gears re-engage. When you push in the allen it disengages the motor & internal gears. The pre-facelift Corrado motors used a straight blade screwdriver slot with a pin in the middle which is even harder to keep pushed in.
If there's a little cover that swings over the allen screw you need to close that cover or the motor is electrically disconnected - at least on the 93+ Corrado motors that is the case.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

Thx, my b4 motor doesn't have a cover over the allen screw.

Does the B4 Moonroof need a similar rubber bumper ring on the rocker like the Corrado's have?


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

JDCorrado said:


> Thx, my b4 motor doesn't have a cover over the allen screw.
> 
> Does the B4 Moonroof need a similar rubber bumper ring on the rocker like the Corrado's have?


Yes. The rocker thing is the same on Corrado/Passat/MkIII and all need that rubber thing. If you leave it off eventually the little wheel on the bottom will wear out. I used a tiny piece of vacuum tubing.


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

DaddyMassacre said:


> this is the wheel without bolt and one of bolt in question, mind its an extended bolt for it was planned to run wheels with spacers on


Those wheels are made for tuner lugs. Sell them or install actual wheel studs. And not the screw in ones.


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## gardner120 (Oct 26, 2013)

*Can't fill fuel tank above 3/4*

Read some other posts on this but they seemed more of a sending unit issue then went way off topic. That being said, when I got my '90 Corrado a few weeks ago it had just under half a tank on gauge. Figured I'd fill it up being I had no info on how old and type of fuel was in it. Unfortunately we aren't entrusted with the complicated task of pumping our own gas in OR so I was surprised when the attendant handed me my receipt for 5 gallons of premium. So I'm thinking either he ran the pump too fast and it clicked it off like my Beetle does or the gauge isn't reading accurate. The following week I was down to just under half on the gauge and made sure I asked him to put the pump on the middle pump lock. I checked the gauge when the pump stopped after only 6 gallons, just above half. Even got him to try to top it off (illegal here) but it wouldn't take any more. Now I'm thinking sending unit/gauge. This week I had a chance to run it down on the gauge. Had my "how many miles to empty" fuel can with me and went for it. To my surprise only 7 miles after registering empty on the gauge the engine stumbled making a quick right turn. Luckily it got going since it was a very busy intersection. I wasn't far from the gas station so I gently cruised on. It stumbled again turning in but didn't stall. So the big question is how much do these tanks hold? I thought it was 15 gallons. It only tool 9.4 gallons until the gas pump clicked off. Again I talked him into trying to top it off but to no avail. Is there a vent line that could be blocked or some other issue? I'm kinda happy the bottom of the gauge range seems accurate but I would like to completely fill up.
Thanks


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## DEjetta (Apr 14, 2006)

So I picked up a 93 SlC a couple of months ago that had been off the road for several years. I have been slowly working on getting it road worthy. The cars runs decent but has a little miss in it at idle. I pulled two codes from the ecu and it is indicating an issue with the engine speed sensor and the front knock sensor. The engine speed sensor I am not concerned about as I have one lying around and plan to swap it out to see if that clears the code. My concern is that when I went to check out the knock sensor, I found it MIA. I was just curious if there was any reason this would have been remove? No other engine mods that I know of other then a cone filter.


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## mrcortes1313 (Nov 3, 2015)

New to corrados. Not much of a mechanic but my g60 runs but doesn't take off or accelerate like it should. Any ideas where to start. I did a tune up and changed gas pump so far

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

mrcortes1313 said:


> New to corrados. Not much of a mechanic but my g60 runs but doesn't take off or accelerate like it should. Any ideas where to start. I did a tune up and changed gas pump so far
> 
> Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk


What state is the G-Lader in? My first guess if the engine isn't bogging down, just slow, would be apex seals on the charger. opcorn:


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## mrcortes1313 (Nov 3, 2015)

jaweber said:


> What state is the G-Lader in? My first guess if the engine isn't bogging down, just slow, would be apex seals on the charger. opcorn:


Haven't really had a chance to get the lader out and check it out due to work but now that I got a few months before work starts up I'm gonna take it out . if the apex seals are no good would that mean it would need to be sent in for a whole refurbishing?

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk


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## RallyRado (Oct 30, 2015)

Hi

Has anyone been able to fit 14" wheels?

Working on a '90 with 10" rotors and smaller wildwood calipers. I have 16"s installed now. There seems to be enough clearance if I measured with the wheel on, but I was wanting to ask before I spend effort to try to track down a set. I've found lots of info fitting bigger wheels, but very little in going smaller then 15"... Just a lot of one word negative answers.


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

RallyRado said:


> Hi
> 
> Has anyone been able to fit 14" wheels?
> 
> Working on a '90 with 10" rotors and smaller wildwood calipers. I have 16"s installed now. There seems to be enough clearance if I measured with the wheel on, but I was wanting to ask before I spend effort to try to track down a set. I've found lots of info fitting bigger wheels, but very little in going smaller then 15"... Just a lot of one word negative answers.


I tried to fit a set of 14" MK3 steelies and they would not fit. They would not fit over the stock caliper. Not sure about the Wilwood caliper though.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

You sure you have 10" rotors, not 11"? I have 13" race wheels that clear 10" rotors with stock Mk3 calipers, 14's came stock on Mk3s and they would fit fine.


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## Reg4 (Nov 14, 2015)

*Just Purchased '93 Corrado*

I guess it is fair to say that I am new to both the forum and the world of Corrado. I recently acquired a one owner 1993 with 77,000 miles. The car is in great shape and I have the bulk of the service records. I know it needs brakes which I will be doing this weekend. First question, I am doing pads and rotors all the way around, is there anything else I should do while I am changing the brakes? Second, is there anything that typically fails on the Corrado that I should plan on replacing sooner rather then later? I am trying to set my priorities and budget for this project. While I know there are always surprises, I want to do my best to mitigate them and stick with my budget. Finally, the car is nearly stock and I want to maintain the stock look but upgrade shocks, exhaust, etc., what are the biggest bang for the buck mods that you would recommend?


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## JCab (Jul 20, 2014)

Today I was driving and the clutch felt normal just as usual until I did a "launch."Nothing bad and no RPM's that the car couldn't take, I don't like beating on it. But anyways, now my clutch pedal feels really weird. Part of it has no feeling and then it feels like it's working. Shifted good but for a brief moment I couldn't get any gears. When I pump the pedal it builds and holds pressure for a little bit. Could this be master or slave cylinder? I didn't run out of brake fluid, it was a bit more than 3/4 full. Clutch replaced ~16k ago


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## bchaser (Dec 2, 2009)

*New to the vortex and corrados*

Hey guys,

I purchased my first corrado recently - I wouldn't say I'm new to vw's and I'm not really new to the vortex, I'm just done lurkin.

I purchased a black 1990 g60 with around 190k - it has been owned by the previous (2nd owner) for around 12 years. It's mostly unmolested except for hid headlights, an after market alarm, and 5 lug conversation/wheels. The car has various high milage repairs to complete, which I could list if you really care.

I decided to dive into a few issues right off the bat - I had a parasitic drain I traced to the aftermarket alarm, so knowing I was going into the dash I ordered a heater core. 

I got in and removed all the aftermarket wiring and replaced my heater core and I'm in the process of putting it back together but I've come across a question regarding the alarm/running without a alarm. There is a 6 pin and 10 pin connector I found near the location of the factory alarm system (I've read 2-3 posts on bypassing) but these connectors and the wires going into them don't look the same as the posts I've seen. I'll try to attach a picture of these connectors if someone could help me understand them. 

Also, while bolting my heater core back through the firewall I had my face down by the isv. I noticed that a wire going into the isv plug was frayed and broken off when I cut back the heat sheathing I found that the wire had melted it's rubber as far back as I can trace it. Since I've read that goes strait to the ecu I assume it's bad thing? The only comfort I have is that the burnt wire doesn't look new, it and the isv connector were very coated in grease so I assume it's been like this since I bought it. I went ahead and dented the isv but I'm concerned about a wire burning back to the ecu.


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## bchaser (Dec 2, 2009)

bchaser said:


> I went ahead and dented the isv but I'm concerned about a wire burning back to the ecu.


I meant I deleted the isv but I'm still concerned about what effect a burnt wire has on the ecu


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

bchaser said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I purchased my first corrado recently - I wouldn't say I'm new to vw's and I'm not really new to the vortex, I'm just done lurkin.
> 
> ...


Which wire is cooked? They both go to the ECU. The white one is non-stop to pin 22 and BK/Y is on the power output circuit (87) for the Digi relay (ECU pin 14). 

Post a picture of the connectors you're talking about under/behind the dash. A '90 Corrado never got a factory alarm. The alarm bypass write-ups don't apply to your car (VR6).


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## bchaser (Dec 2, 2009)

mateok said:


> Which wire is cooked? They both go to the ECU. The white one is non-stop to pin 22 and BK/Y is on the power output circuit (87) for the Digi relay (ECU pin 14).
> 
> Post a picture of the connectors you're talking about under/behind the dash. A '90 Corrado never got a factory alarm. The alarm bypass write-ups don't apply to your car (VR6).



Thanks for the response man,

It is the bk/y wire that burned.

Here is a pict of the connectors -


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## bchaser (Dec 2, 2009)

The reason I assumed those connectors were alarm was that a wire from the aftermarket alarm went to this bundle. The only other system removed is the a/c as far as I know.


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## TxJet98 (Jun 29, 2012)

JCab said:


> Today I was driving and the clutch felt normal just as usual until I did a "launch."Nothing bad and no RPM's that the car couldn't take, I don't like beating on it. But anyways, now my clutch pedal feels really weird. Part of it has no feeling and then it feels like it's working. Shifted good but for a brief moment I couldn't get any gears. When I pump the pedal it builds and holds pressure for a little bit. Could this be master or slave cylinder? I didn't run out of brake fluid, it was a bit more than 3/4 full. Clutch replaced ~16k ago
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Typical signs of a master cylinder or slave cylinder. I would replace them both at the same time and be done with it.


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## JCab (Jul 20, 2014)

TxJet98 said:


> Typical signs of a master cylinder or slave cylinder. I would replace them both at the same time and be done with it.


took slave out today and replaced it, clutch is all good, annoying to bleed, but all good :thumbup:


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

bchaser said:


> Thanks for the response man,
> 
> It is the bk/y wire that burned.
> 
> Here is a pict of the connectors -


Your picture is busted. The BK/Y wire powers the ISV's magnet that moves the jacking piston back and forth. It's fed B+ through the ECU relay. 

It sounds as if the ISV shorted out and started pulling massive current from circuit 30 through the relay. I would replace the relay even if it's still working.


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## bchaser (Dec 2, 2009)

Here is a unbustedd photo of those two connectors. 
http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah7/bradleyjpfchase/Mobile%20Uploads/20151119_173204_zpsfuvxyxxf.jpg


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Those look like the connectors that plug into the back of the stereo. You have a nice PO wiring hack job going on back there.:beer:


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## gardner120 (Oct 26, 2013)

*Lift gate lock rod retainer*

I'm trying to track down the small plastic rod retainer for my lift gate lock. It's the rod that operates the pop mechanism.
Thanks


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

gardner120 said:


> I'm trying to track down the small plastic rod retainer for my lift gate lock. It's the rod that operates the pop mechanism.
> Thanks


goodluck.. those parts are nal.. the plastic screw part you can still get, its $9. but the spring is hard to find


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## bchaser (Dec 2, 2009)

mateok said:


> Those look like the connectors that plug into the back of the stereo. You have a nice PO wiring hack job going on back there.:beer:


Well that's a big relief - the only wire that was cut for the alarm installation was the starter wire, all the other wires were tapped in with those little splicing clips - the harness is mainly undamaged.

Although the current radio looks stock, I'm guessing it is out of a different year since the harness is slightly different and wired in like an after market. 

Now the only electrical left to clean up is the sloppy hid install. And all the dried out wires around the motor.

Thanks for your help mateok


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## bchaser (Dec 2, 2009)

*Aktiv system*

Now I'm curious about completly removing the factory aktiv systems wiring as it isn't being used anymore. I saw one reference by Non_affiliated mentioning he'd done this install - but I'm unsure whether this is just a strait forward "clip and remove" or if there is more to it.


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## bchaser (Dec 2, 2009)

bchaser said:


> Now I'm curious about completly removing the factory aktiv systems wiring as it isn't being used anymore. I saw one reference by Non_affiliated mentioning he'd done this install - but I'm unsure whether this is just a strait forward "clip and remove" or if there is more to it.


Well, with a bit more searching, I found an even older writeup by Non_affiliated on kilometer. With that I was able to rid myself of those old aktiv wires - I even used the old wires to pull new speaker wire, leaving all the friction tape intact hah. Since the deck currently in the dash looks factory, I cleaned up the mild hack and wired that deck to run the two 4" dash speakers. I then wired a small bluetooth amp to the other 4 speakers. 

Now that I'm putting the dash back together I have one other question that I'm not sure how to search or look into with my wiring diagram. I have a few single wire plugs that are unplugged, if anyone could steer me in the right direction to look this up myself or identify them, I'd be thankful! These are mostly near the rear of the fuse block, though they don't all lead to the fuse block, the only one that does is the white wire I think. Another is of a 18g br/w ground wire coming our of a small junction in the drivers side kick leading to the door (I assume.)










































Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

This....
























....Is this in the wiring diagram. The side mirrors won't heat without that wire. It was probably unplugged because S14 kept blowing. 

This....
















....is this in the wiring diagram. The G60 cubby gauges were originally supposed to be installed at the factory, but VW decided to make it a dealer installed option instead. 

This....
















....is this - I think. You'll need to follow it back and see if it goes to M connector, pin 3. The tracer color is reversed, so I'm not sure. 

The BR/W is a ground wire. I would guess it goes to the cubby gauge harness.


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## bchaser (Dec 2, 2009)

mateok said:


> This....
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks mateok, that really makes my day considering I don't have factory cubby gauges. I guess I'll just tuck them away and forget about them. Thanks for your help, again hah I'm sure it won't be the last time.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


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## 412Corrado (Dec 29, 2014)

*VR6 Swap*

I have a 1992 Corrado VR6 stock with 165,000 miles on it. I want to swap out and get the more reliable 2 gen VR6 with coils. What all do I need to do the swap. I've heard I need a whole donor car. My abilities are fairly strong as I have done swaps before with 2.0 to 2.0 but have not messed around with a VR6 swap before.


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

How do I separate the lens and the trim for the side markers?


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

Seems to be bonded with some pretty stout adhesive. Heat perhaps?


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## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

*Heater Box Interchangeability?*

I broke the firewall stud on my heater box. Does anyone know if a B4 Passat or Mk3 Golf/Jetta has a similar "Air Distribution Box" (the heater core portion of the heater box)?


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

*synchro question*

So I'm rebuilding a G60's transmission, and this is the first rebuild I have ever done (got to start somewhere) I have it all apart, and I was checking out what needed replacing and what didn't. I should mention that I got this off a G60 in a parts yard. MY corrado is my daily driver and between work and other projects I don't have much time per day to work on it. So I managed to get a transmission for $50 that was in unknown shape. I had to pull it apart anyway so I could inspect everything and fix a few things on the case. 

As I inspected the synchros and gears, I have been referencing the manual and using a feeler gauge on all the synchros to check clearance. The gauge is telling me everything is nearly new in tolerance. However visually on the first gear synchro and synchro hub, the metal point seem to be rounded and worn. Since this is my first transmission rebuild, I don't know precisely what it should look like but it is different than the other synchros. I took a picture and was hoping someone with more experience could either confirm or refute the gauge's assertion that the synchros are practically new with a feeler gauge clearance measured at 1.68mm. Thanks.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

mrcortes1313 said:


> New to corrados. Not much of a mechanic but my g60 runs but doesn't take off or accelerate like it should. Any ideas where to start. I did a tune up and changed gas pump so far
> 
> Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk


If you haven't already, check the boost tubing, particularly where it runs under the battery. The stock plastic has a tendency to develop a hole it that spot letting the car go from its stock boosted nature of 158hp to around 98hp.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

gardner120 said:


> Read some other posts on this but they seemed more of a sending unit issue then went way off topic. That being said, when I got my '90 Corrado a few weeks ago it had just under half a tank on gauge. Figured I'd fill it up being I had no info on how old and type of fuel was in it. Unfortunately we aren't entrusted with the complicated task of pumping our own gas in OR so I was surprised when the attendant handed me my receipt for 5 gallons of premium. So I'm thinking either he ran the pump too fast and it clicked it off like my Beetle does or the gauge isn't reading accurate. The following week I was down to just under half on the gauge and made sure I asked him to put the pump on the middle pump lock. I checked the gauge when the pump stopped after only 6 gallons, just above half. Even got him to try to top it off (illegal here) but it wouldn't take any more. Now I'm thinking sending unit/gauge. This week I had a chance to run it down on the gauge. Had my "how many miles to empty" fuel can with me and went for it. To my surprise only 7 miles after registering empty on the gauge the engine stumbled making a quick right turn. Luckily it got going since it was a very busy intersection. I wasn't far from the gas station so I gently cruised on. It stumbled again turning in but didn't stall. So the big question is how much do these tanks hold? I thought it was 15 gallons. It only tool 9.4 gallons until the gas pump clicked off. Again I talked him into trying to top it off but to no avail. Is there a vent line that could be blocked or some other issue? I'm kinda happy the bottom of the gauge range seems accurate but I would like to completely fill up.
> Thanks


I'm willing to bet it is your sender, that or in your cluster there is a short that causes it to read wrong. As for the right turn issue, the '90 corrados actually had a recall on their fuel pump. They way the unit was mounted to the tank bottom would cause the pump to loosen under heat and load letting it move a bit. You probably have the stock pump setup, so when you are lower the pump shifts and doesn't pump as much. This causes the engine to bog down. Vemo makes a replacement that is supposed to fix that, but to this day I can't let it use more than 11 gallons of my 15 with out risking dying on right turns or going up a hill.


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## JCab (Jul 20, 2014)

Are the front wheel bearings sealed? I bought a wheel bearing but they didn't tell me whether or not I needed seals for it. Any ideas?


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## JCab (Jul 20, 2014)

JCab said:


> Are the front wheel bearings sealed? I bought a wheel bearing but they didn't tell me whether or not I needed seals for it. Anybody know?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

ArchAngel4 said:


> So I'm rebuilding a G60's transmission, and this is the first rebuild I have ever done (got to start somewhere) I have it all apart, and I was checking out what needed replacing and what didn't. I should mention that I got this off a G60 in a parts yard. MY corrado is my daily driver and between work and other projects I don't have much time per day to work on it. So I managed to get a transmission for $50 that was in unknown shape. I had to pull it apart anyway so I could inspect everything and fix a few things on the case.
> 
> As I inspected the synchros and gears, I have been referencing the manual and using a feeler gauge on all the synchros to check clearance. The gauge is telling me everything is nearly new in tolerance. However visually on the first gear synchro and synchro hub, the metal point seem to be rounded and worn. Since this is my first transmission rebuild, I don't know precisely what it should look like but it is different than the other synchros. I took a picture and was hoping someone with more experience could either confirm or refute the gauge's assertion that the synchros are practically new with a feeler gauge clearance measured at 1.68mm. Thanks.


ive rebuilt many 02as, and you can file down the rough edges on that gear. i would suggest lapping the syncro to the gear. it makea a night and day difference. pm me if you want. i can walk you through it. eace:


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## brice017 (Oct 14, 2011)

*Rattling noise when key in ignition but car NOT turned on, What, Why, Normal?*

New to vw's and corrado's

When I have the key in the ignition, the electronics turned on (such as radio) there is a constant rattle from the engine ebay.
Specifically drivers side rear of the VR6 engine. I think it is coming from a device that has a 1" coolant tube attached - at least that's the best I can tell.
If I just leave the key in the ignition (working on the radio) the rattle won't stop.

What is causing this?
Is this normal?

Eventually it stops when I take the key out of the ignition and leave the car.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

^^^Is it the aux water pump? If it is, review the discussion within this forum regarding this part to decide whether you buy a new one or bypass it.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

JCab said:


> Are the front wheel bearings sealed? I bought a wheel bearing but they didn't tell me whether or not I needed seals for it. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Front wheel bearings are sealed units. Follow the directions for pressing the new bearing in or you'll ruin it before it's even used. Essentially, press the bearing into the steering knuckle by the outer race first. Then press the hub into the bearing while supporting the inner race. DON'T press "through the balls" or the bearing will be ruined.


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## JCab (Jul 20, 2014)

theprf said:


> Front wheel bearings are sealed units. Follow the directions for pressing the new bearing in or you'll ruin it before it's even used. Essentially, press the bearing into the steering knuckle by the outer race first. Then press the hub into the bearing while supporting the inner race. DON'T press "through the balls" or the bearing will be ruined.


Replaced passenger bearing earlier today, as that's where I thought the noise was coming from. Didn't do what I should've done Which was spin tire and feel for roughness and vibration etc. I just started taking things off. Stupidity on my part. after I replaced and test drove it was still making the noise. Felt for roughness and vibration on drivers side and sure enough it's no good. I knew the wheel bearing looked too good to be bad. Doing it tomorrow or the day after. Didn't use a press. Used large sockets and hammers and etc. (very carefully of course)!went fairly well to be honest. By "through the balls" do you mean on the part of the bearing that isn't either races?


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

JCab said:


> Replaced passenger bearing earlier today, as that's where I thought the noise was coming from. Didn't do what I should've done Which was spin tire and feel for roughness and vibration etc. I just started taking things off. Stupidity on my part. after I replaced and test drove it was still making the noise. Felt for roughness and vibration on drivers side and sure enough it's no good. I knew the wheel bearing looked too good to be bad. Doing it tomorrow or the day after. Didn't use a press. Used large sockets and hammers and etc. (very carefully of course)!went fairly well to be honest. By "through the balls" do you mean on the part of the bearing that isn't either races?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I meant don't press on the inner race when you're trying to get the outer race into the knuckle - press on the outer race itself, and don't press on the knuckle when you're trying to seat the hub - press on the hub and the back side of the inner race.


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## JCab (Jul 20, 2014)

theprf said:


> I meant don't press on the inner race when you're trying to get the outer race into the knuckle - press on the outer race itself, and don't press on the knuckle when you're trying to seat the hub - press on the hub and the back side of the inner race.


Yes I did that. All went well thanks man 🏼


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## Wompa (Oct 30, 2009)

Do a plastic valve cover give a cooler manifold?

Or is the metall valve cover better for cooling the engine? If it even does anything?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Are you talking about thermal conductivity or heat capacity? Plastic will conduct heat twice as fast as aluminum, but aluminum will retain it for twice as long. I doubt the valve cover would matter, all things considered. A diamond valve cover would pull massive heat away from the engine.:thumbup:


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## Wompa (Oct 30, 2009)

mateok said:


> Are you talking about thermal conductivity or heat capacity? Plastic will conduct heat twice as fast as aluminum, but aluminum will retain it for twice as long. I doubt the valve cover would matter, all things considered. A diamond valve cover would pull massive heat away from the engine.:thumbup:


I thinking about heat radiation, the heat that will end up in the manifold.

But both has up and downsides... the plastic seems to be a better choice to keep the heat inside the engine rather than on the outside. That seems to be some logic in that.

But on the other side.. is it that much difference? Someone must have asked this question before :laugh:


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

This is one of those things where hairs are split and there are really no practical differences. Do the 1.8t iat and manifold heat soak plays a minimal part in power production


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## gmendoza (Nov 28, 2015)

I found his zip-tied under the dash:









What is it? What does it do? More important, how/where is it fastened? 

Speaking of fasteners, what kind of fasteners does the panel under the dash the covers the fuses supposed to have?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Control unit for anti-theft alarms. More commonly know as the MKIII white label alarm module. I'm assuming the original module has been removed and replaced with that. It's mounted next to the cruise control module. 








http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14289

The fuse panel clips are PN:
191 857 971

They're NLA from VW, but you can look around the web and might get lucky. Unless you're doing a hundred point restoration, I'd just put a couple Christmas trees in there. The Corrado becomes angry when you do something nice for it. 








http://www.arz-tuning.de/shop/produ...--VW-Corrado-Golf-II-Jetta-T4-Passat-35i.html


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## gmendoza (Nov 28, 2015)

mateok said:


> Control unit for anti-theft alarms. More commonly know as the MKIII white label alarm module. I'm assuming the original module has been removed and replaced with that. It's mounted next to the cruise control module.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thank you!


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

I personally think the fuse panel isn't worth it unless you are after 100pts restoration. After years of not having it when I built my car I put one in and then hated dealing with it so it stays in the storage box. In fact I hate that whole under dash tray/cover. To make it look normal like it's not missing a piece I cut the panel so it's just the side of the hvac/tunnel trim and the thin strip that screws into the knee bar.


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## Torsten (Jan 29, 2006)

additional to the ARZ link (where you can buy those clips)
these are not exactly the clip which belong to the fuse panel cover, the original clips are a little bit bigger.
they work but the head is different to the original ones which came stock on corrados at this place


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

gmendoza said:


> Speaking of fasteners, what kind of fasteners does the panel under the dash the covers the fuses supposed to have?


B3 Passat uses ONE of the same fuse panel clips for it's fuse cover.


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## gmendoza (Nov 28, 2015)

Thanks guys. I guess I'll look for an alternative fastener.


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## JCab (Jul 20, 2014)

Today I got this off of Amazon 








I want to use it to try to check my ABS codes, the light used to be on all the time but has since shut off. Abs doesn't work light never comes on. Can/how can I use this







code reader? Do I need VAGCOM? This code reader makes you select year/make/model, or you can choose Global OBDII. Nothing worked. My car does not have a check engine light. 93 VR with coil pack (car never had a distributor) Anybody got any ideas?










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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

That OBD2 reader won't work in an OBD1 Corrado. You need the VW-specific OBD1 reader and software. VCDS is the commonly used one. There are two plugs under the shifter boot, black and white. Black has +12V and ground. White has the k-wire diagnostic connector. If you have these connectors you're good to go - every VR Corrado should have them, even my distributor VR does.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

You need this to use VCDS. 
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/2x2.html

Corrados produced after 8/91 support RDT, but you can still blink codes for free*. 

*provided your light still works
*provided the controller connector's pins aren't green
*provided the controller will even communicate

Another coilpack with no MIL.


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## JCab (Jul 20, 2014)

theprf said:


> That OBD2 reader won't work in an OBD1 Corrado. You need the VW-specific OBD1 reader and software. VCDS is the commonly used one. There are two plugs under the shifter boot, black and white. Black has +12V and ground. White has the k-wire diagnostic connector. If you have these connectors you're good to go - every VR Corrado should have them, even my distributor VR does.


Okay thanks I'll look into finding one! Have you ever read abs codes on a VR?




mateok said:


> You need this to use VCDS.
> http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/2x2.html
> 
> Corrados produced after 8/91 support RDT, but you can still blink codes for free*.
> ...


I have the adapter but I need the VCDS



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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

JCab said:


> Okay thanks I'll look into finding one! Have you ever read abs codes on a VR?


Yes I read the ABS codes on my VR with a very old version of VCDS, back when it was called "vag-com". It provided only the code number and I had to look the numbers up in the Bentley where I found I had a faulty wheel speed sensor.


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## denver_fox (Oct 15, 2011)

*Foglight question*

My foglights have been acting weird and its kind of annoying.

Whenever I turn the key to aux, or have the corrado running, my passenger foglight comes on. No amount of pushing the foglight switch will turn it off.

When I turn either my running lights or my headlights on, the driver side foglight comes on as well. 

Why is my passenger foglight lit all the time? And why cant I turn them off? Do I have a faulty switch? Thanks in advance guys.


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## JCab (Jul 20, 2014)

theprf said:


> Yes I read the ABS codes on my VR with a very old version of VCDS, back when it was called "vag-com". It provided only the code number and I had to look the numbers up in the Bentley where I found I had a faulty wheel speed sensor.


Awesome definitely gonna try to read them when I get my hands on it


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## JCab (Jul 20, 2014)

denver_fox said:


> My foglights have been acting weird and its kind of annoying.
> 
> Whenever I turn the key to aux, or have the corrado running, my passenger foglight comes on. No amount of pushing the foglight switch will turn it off.
> 
> ...


I'm no expert but does the passenger fog light stay on when the lights are on or does it go back off? Any aftermarket headlight wiring?


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## denver_fox (Oct 15, 2011)

No aftermarket wiring. Everything is stock. The passenger fog is on constantly whenever the car is in aux or running. It does not turn off when I turn my headlamps on, rather the driver side fog lights up as well.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

denver_fox said:


> My foglights have been acting weird and its kind of annoying.
> 
> Whenever I turn the key to aux, or have the corrado running, my passenger foglight comes on. No amount of pushing the foglight switch will turn it off.
> 
> ...


That's weird. The right fog light is a slave, in that it taps power from the left. If the right light is getting power then the left has to, as well. 

The fog relay (pos 10 "53") is on X circuit, load reduction. That means power for the fogs comes from that relay, but it's not what triggers the relay. You need to click the headlight switch first to energize the fog's relay control. 

So power is making it past two controls, headlight and fog light switches, down a single wire, but instead of taking the path of least resistance and ignoring the welded connection, hangs a right and powers just one fog light - impossible. 

I would guess the right fog light has found an alternate power source. Since the fogs have separate grounds, all it needs is switched or B+ to light by itself. It's not on all the time, so B+ can be eliminated. That leaves 15. 

Check its wiring for continuity. The BR/Y joins with the W/Y, so I would work from the light back.


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## denver_fox (Oct 15, 2011)

mateok said:


> That's weird. The right fog light is a slave, in that it taps power from the left. If the right light is getting power then the left has to, as well.
> 
> The fog relay (pos 10 "53") is on X circuit, load reduction. That means power for the fogs comes from that relay, but it's not what triggers the relay. You need to click the headlight switch first to energize the fog's relay control.
> 
> ...


Whoops, slight error. I thought it was the right fog, but its actually the left fog getting power constantly. I havent actually driven the corrado in a while; after I read your post I had to go outside and double check to see if I was correct in remembering...well I wasnt! So thats a relief, from the sound of it!

So basically reverse what I was saying before, lol. The left fog is getting power constantly, and the right fog(the slave) only comes on with the headlights. Thanks Mateok for the help so far.:beer:


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Well, that's really only slightly better. The same power conundrum exists. How is is it making it through the control devises and powering one but not the other? Both fog lights share the same power wire. 

The problem has to be in the harness. Pull the 10th fuse from the left (15A) while the left fog light is doing its craziness. If it stays on, pull the fog relay, 4th from the left on the bottom row just above the fuses, should have 53 on it. If it stays on after that, its found another power source.


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## denver_fox (Oct 15, 2011)

mateok said:


> Well, that's really only slightly better. The same power conundrum exists. How is is it making it through the control devises and powering one but not the other? Both fog lights share the same power wire.
> 
> The problem has to be in the harness. Pull the 10th fuse from the left (15A) while the left fog light is doing its craziness. If it stays on, pull the fog relay, 4th from the left on the bottom row just above the fuses, should have 53 on it. If it stays on after that, its found another power source.


Well, mateok, you hit the head on the nail with this one. 

I've been busy all week and just now had a chance to look into the rado a little more.

Upon first inspection, lo and behold, the fog light 15A fuse wasnt even present. Not a good sign. I went ahead and put one in anyways, to no change with the foglights. I also pulled the relay, number 53 like you said mateok (my horn relay is a 53 as well?) and no change. So now I get to figure out were it's getting power from, since its not getting it from where it's supposed too!

Driving a corrado with one fog light on just looks ghetto. I gotta get this fixed! On the plus side, I've put almost 900 miles on the old beast so far and this is the only hiccup I've encountered.(knock on wood)


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

It certainly sounds like an interesting problem you have. Yes, the horn relay is right next to the fog relay and they're both stamped 53. It's a standard 4-pin ISO that'll actually fit into 9 of the 12 available slots. Under no circumstances should one attempt that, though. 

The Bentley wiring diagrams read like a Greek tragedy when it comes to the fog lights. Example, here's the diagram for your car, a '93 








Notice anything strange? Seems they couldn't be bothered with it. I have a theory as to why, though. There were ten different headlight harnesses made, six for the US market alone. The way the fogs were being wired was constantly changing. 

I have a harness that follows the 90-92 diagrams perfectly. I also a have a harness that the right fog follows the diagram, but the left doesn't join with the right, it goes all the way back to the fusebox. Another headlight harness I have doesn't even include the fogs, they're run as a separate harness. 

I believe they meant well, but ultimately left it blank instead of getting it wrong. A decent mechanic should be able to figure it out on the car, anyhow. 








C12 in the wiring diagram (welded connection). The grounds are a little misleading in the diagram. They aren't fixed to the chassis at grounding point, but rather another welded connection that goes back to the fusebox. 
















This is what they look like in real life. They'll be, unfortunately, behind the fusebox. I can't see your harness, so I don't know which version you have or how it's actually wired. It sounds like someone's been in there and you're chasing some PO handiwork.


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## gmendoza (Nov 28, 2015)

While working on getting my AC repaired, i discovered my fan belt was missing. I replaced the belt but it wont stay on. Upon further inspection, it appears my fans are on two separate planes, 











Has anyone seen this? The shroud doesn't seem to be bent. I'm thinking of shimming electric fan to align it to the slave. Anyone have other suggestions?


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Is it an original fan? I had some issues with alignment and fitting of an after market fan. Got another stock one and all good. You should be fine to space it out with some washers to get it aligned to not throw the belt. Use a 3/16" wooden dowel rod to align it between the grooves and you should be good to go.


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## gmendoza (Nov 28, 2015)

TheDeckMan said:


> Is it an original fan? I had some issues with alignment and fitting of an after market fan. Got another stock one and all good. You should be fine to space it out with some washers to get it aligned to not throw the belt. Use a 3/16" wooden dowel rod to align it between the grooves and you should be good to go.


Not sure if original. I know it's Bosch but I forgot to look up the part number. I ended up shimming it and no more issues tossing belts. Thanks.


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## D4vid4F (May 14, 2011)

Hey guys, Im not new to corrados, but am to the G60 engine, I am trying to source a PCV or breather that sits on the valve cover, but cant seem to find a part number or where to source one, are they NLA? Can I use one from a different engine? Any help on this would be appreciated! :beer:


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## Eric D (Feb 16, 1999)

D4vid4F said:


> Hey guys, Im not new to corrados, but am to the G60 engine, I am trying to source a PCV or breather that sits on the valve cover, but cant seem to find a part number or where to source one, are they NLA? Can I use one from a different engine? Any help on this would be appreciated! :beer:


Round ones are cheap cause they are also used on a Mk1, Mk2 and Fox, the square ones are pricey even for used ones. I have both, its just a matter of finding them in storage.

Square one was dropped in 2013 by VW. It had a retail of $130, which means the old ones can still command a high price due to scarcity. 
The round one was dropped in 2014, it had a retail of $133. Round ones are easy to find as there were more vehicles using them, also there are aftermarket versions.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

^came in while I was typing

The G60 uses it a little differently than a regular 8V. It vents, acts as an emission control devise, and dumps oil vapor into the boost return pipe. According to VW, the oil vapor is necessary to lubricate the apex strips. There's like a ten page discussion on its merits somewhere. I say leave it alone, it's not hurting anything. 

There're two types; round and square, depending on your valve cover. The round breather goes on the early valve covers with only one mounting hole. Square will have two holes. The original "stubby" breather gasket went missing years ago, so one needs to cut down the replacement or the breather will sit too high. 

The hose has a wicked bend in it and it's difficult to make/find a replacement. It recently popped up at VWCP, after I pulled a hundred hoses at the junkyard. The breather is just a plastic box, so the classifieds would be appropriate. Just make it clear which one you want, round or square.


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

mateok said:


> There're two types; round and square, depending on your valve cover. The round breather goes on the early valve covers with only one mounting hole. Square will have two holes. The original "stubby" breather gasket went missing years ago, so one needs to cut down the replacement or the breather will sit too high.


Been wondering this for years as I had both types on my cars, never got around to asking. Good to know! :thumbup: :beer:


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## D4vid4F (May 14, 2011)

Hey guys, thanks for the info, Found a square one on ebay for 50 shipped.


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## D4vid4F (May 14, 2011)

Eric D said:


> Round ones are cheap cause they are also used on a Mk1, Mk2 and Fox, the square ones are pricey even for used ones. I have both, its just a matter of finding them in storage.
> 
> Square one was dropped in 2013 by VW. It had a retail of $130, which means the old ones can still command a high price due to scarcity.
> The round one was dropped in 2014, it had a retail of $133. Round ones are easy to find as there were more vehicles using them, also there are aftermarket versions.


Hey man if you find one let me know could always use a spare. :beer::beer:


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## br0d (Mar 1, 2014)

*91 g60 hot coolant spewing out*

Looking for some advice. Have a 91 g60 with a bypassed supercharger, upon running for 5 minutes, heats up and hot coolant spews out of the hole in the side of the compartment. Water is circulating but it just boils out with coolant everywhere. Any help would be appreciated.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Could be a bad rad cap, change that first and report back. OR test system pressure if you have the means and report back.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

br0d said:


> ...... heats up and hot coolant spews out of the hole in the side of the compartment. ..



What does this mean? What Hole. There is no enough information here. Your fans are either not kicking in, you have air in the coolant system, etc..


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## Eric D (Feb 16, 1999)

sdezego said:


> What does this mean? What Hole. There is no enough information here. Your fans are either not kicking in, you have air in the coolant system, etc..


He means coolant reservoir.

VR6 shown, forum member ScoOb.


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

It's overheating with a lot of pressure in the system.
That's a relieve valve on the housing.


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## Veedub101 (Apr 30, 2010)

I have a 1990 Volkswagen corrado G60. Can anyone help me with what is needed to complete my AWP engine swap. I have the entire engine with all accessories, engine harness, and ECU but because it is from a automatic vehicle, it would useless. Any help is greatly appreciated. DM or reply to my post with any tips.


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## Dorrado (Dec 12, 2001)

Hello,

a while ago i acquired some AC Schnitzer 3-piece wheels and i refinished them myself. I only painted the centres as i wanted to ensure that i liked the colour before going through the process of powdercoating them. I like the bronze/copper colour and am curious if i can remove the centre of the wheel (after letting all the air out of the tire) and simply refinish the centre without having to break the seal? (centre is face mounted and from what i have googled the opinions seem to be split on whether you can or can not). I would prefer not to have the tires taken off as the last shop didn't do the best job 

pics for those interested. Thank you for any advice!


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

Eric D said:


> He means coolant reservoir.
> 
> VR6 shown, forum member ScoOb.


Probably leaky head gasket no?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Eric D said:


> He means coolant reservoir.
> 
> VR6 shown, forum member ScoOb.


 I think you are right, but it would be nice if people were clear about posting specifics. This could have gone 10 different ways, LOL


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

baja67414 said:


> Ok I have the motor and everything in that was the easy part. So... ive searched and have not found a write up on this. Im more of a autobody guy this is my first water cooled swap. So question is wiring. The swap didnt come with a OBD2 comp, do i need it or can I use the OBD1. I have the full OBD2 wire harness. What would be the best / easiest way to get this thing back on the road. I would like to maintain the OBD2 intake manifold. What to splice, and to where?? thanks!!


Grab a harness from a manual B4 VR6 obd2 car

Plug and play on both ends for the most part. There are multiple posts on the forum about the swap along with a good one on the CCA site.

PM if you need more specific info.


----------



## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

I should post my pic by pic of the obd2 swap. You have to swap a few plugs and make some connections but it's plug and play.


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Dorrado said:


> Hello,
> 
> a while ago i acquired some AC Schnitzer 3-piece wheels and i refinished them myself. I only painted the centres as i wanted to ensure that i liked the colour before going through the process of powdercoating them. I like the bronze/copper colour and am curious if i can remove the centre of the wheel (after letting all the air out of the tire) and simply refinish the centre without having to break the seal? (centre is face mounted and from what i have googled the opinions seem to be split on whether you can or can not). I would prefer not to have the tires taken off as the last shop didn't do the best job
> 
> ...


Find a better tire shop.

If you screw up the reassembly and don't have them torqued down properly you are risking a failure that could result in something as minor as a tire that won't hold air to something as dangerous as a failure at speed while on the road around innocent people that could suffer due to your short cut.


----------



## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

*Port for Oil Pressire Gauge Sender?*

Does it matter which port on the oil filter bracket I put the sender in on a G60? The VDO sender is bottoming out in the banjo adapter before sealing. and it won't fit straight up due to the distributor. Can I put it in the temperature sender hole, move the temp sender to the adapter?
Thanks in advance.


----------



## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

No difference in the holes. It's like the coolant flange holes.


----------



## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

br0d said:


> Looking for some advice. Have a 91 g60 with a bypassed supercharger, upon running for 5 minutes, heats up and hot coolant spews out of the hole in the side of the compartment. Water is circulating but it just boils out with coolant everywhere. Any help would be appreciated.


A leaking head gasket will also overpressurize the cooling system. Buy a Blockcheck kit and check your coolant for hydrocarbons.


----------



## MexicanPsycho (Apr 10, 2004)

are power steering lines the same for zf and trw racks?

will mk3 lines work on a corrado?


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## c3k (May 1, 2006)

MexicanPsycho said:


> are power steering lines the same for zf and trw racks?
> 
> will mk3 lines work on a corrado?



I believe the MK3 lines are too short. The hard lines on the actual rack are likely the same if the rack is also a ZF or TRW.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

My rear license plate holder is no longer retained on the upper portion. It still is holding to the hatch though along the lower half. I took the inside hatch trim off to see what's going on since I have no clue how the whole plate holder assembly is fastened to the hatch...and I don't want to damage it any further.

There are 3 horizontal metal slots in the hatch sheet metal, then I see that all 3 of the plastic plate holder round bosses are still in tact and have a small hole in them, I suppose for a fastener of some type. *What fastener retains these 3 plate holder bosses to the hatch slots? (OR did the plate holder have some type of snap shape that broke off?)
*
Sorry, no pics. Thanks for any info on this :beer:


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

JDCorrado said:


> ...(OR did the plate holder have some type of snap shape that broke off?)


Yes. There were pins molded on the back than popped and held the plate into the hatch. I have taken the one behind the license plate and used a plastic molly with a panhead screw through the plastic before.

I know this is a lack luster solution, but I only drill a hole through the plastic panel and it is hidden behind the license plate. No harm done to the hatch and it is not going anywhere  Sorry no pics to this as I don;t necessarily want my name associated with it :laugh:


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

That's not a bad solution, sounds good to me :beer::thumbup:
Better than flimsy clips that leave you dangling.

Everything inside my hatch looks brand new, even the paper tags on parts...everything except the clips.


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## JCab (Jul 20, 2014)

A/C button that goes in the interior of the car right under the vent direction knob, 93+ interior. Button looks like this one
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...yle-HVAC-unit-with-AC-Switch-red-illumination

My question is, where the hell can I get one?? I lost mine.. don't know how I did, or why I wouldn't have put it somewhere special, but I lost it and my AC works ( I think).


----------



## VWGTX86 (Jul 20, 2009)

*New Corrado Owner Issues.*

Hello, I bought this Corrado from a friend he owned it the last 10 years, car would get general maintenance and be stored away.

I had issues getting it to run, but managed to figure it out.

changed :

Dis cap
Rotor
fuel pump
cables 
sparkplugs
coolant
had it properly timed
changed oil-oil filter
sealed all air leaks 
brand new fuel injectors 

Engine is a stock G60 and it’s a 1990 Corrado
My mechanical knowledge on VW I could say 70give or take. 

issue I am having now is the car would start and rev once or twice and shut down.

We have changed everything on the list above and even tried another CPU from another G60 in perfecto working condition and the issue persists. I live in Costa Rica and as far as I know there’s only 18 Corrados in the country and its unknown the amount of Corrados alive. It’s a bit hard to get parts for this particular engine and it’s extremely hard to get body parts. any thoughts or ideas on what my issue could be are welcomed and highly appreciated.

A few pics of the car.




100% atock engine


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## BBR817 (Jun 8, 2016)

*'92 SLC - Project or Part Car?*

Man, oh man, where to begin ... Original owner of '92 SLC (1st Gen VR6). Black on beige. Clean title in hand. Naturally aspirated with about $15K in a-m upgrades. Rebuilt after radiator/heater core failure @ 95k. Heater core ruptured for the 3rd time, leaking oil (rear seal?) and I took it off the road in '06. It has been sitting for 10 years, "one day I am going to get her back on the road". Body is in very good shape - a little corrosion setting in around the gas tank. Have sought input from a local P/A/VW repair shop. It appears to need approx. $7500 in obvious repairs to get it on the road, which includes wear and tear items (i.e. tires, belts, plugs, wires, etc.; the engine cranks but will not start, probably needs to be re-wired in addition to the other tear-down/restoration needs). I have neither the expertise nor the capital to take on this project (grad student who just launched my own business/consulting practice). Willing to part with it for a very reasonable price. I have to move it in a week or less. Thoughts, suggestions, interest?

- Bill

(610) 308-2014


----------



## BBR817 (Jun 8, 2016)

*photos can be txt or emailed*

Sorry,

Cannot figure out how to upload jpg to this site 

- B

(610) 308 2014


----------



## modeliuks (Sep 14, 2013)

When I bought my Corrado, there were nothing on the other side of third brake light. There are a couple cables but that's all. Can someone please post a picture of how does a third brake light look like from the inside with the wiring and bulbs?


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

JDCorrado said:


> My rear license plate holder is no longer retained on the upper portion. It still is holding to the hatch though along the lower half. I took the inside hatch trim off to see what's going on since I have no clue how the whole plate holder assembly is fastened to the hatch...and I don't want to damage it any further.
> 
> There are 3 horizontal metal slots in the hatch sheet metal, then I see that all 3 of the plastic plate holder round bosses are still in tact and have a small hole in them, I suppose for a fastener of some type. *What fastener retains these 3 plate holder bosses to the hatch slots? (OR did the plate holder have some type of snap shape that broke off?)
> *
> Sorry, no pics. Thanks for any info on this :beer:





sdezego said:


> Yes. There were pins molded on the back than popped and held the plate into the hatch. I have taken the one behind the license plate and used a plastic molly with a panhead screw through the plastic before.
> 
> I know this is a lack luster solution, but I only drill a hole through the plastic panel and it is hidden behind the license plate. No harm done to the hatch and it is not going anywhere  Sorry no pics to this as I don;t necessarily want my name associated with it :laugh:


I had bought a new rear plate holder for my silver car thinking that a new one would hold up better. Well 1 or two of the 4 studs have already popped off after an easy garage queen life in the 4 years since I bought it. Earlier this spring somebody posted a good solution to the rear plate breaking its mounting posts. The solution is to use rota-locs SS-M1-RB38 10-32x1.00

Here is where you buy them from: http://www.mcmaster.com/#97590A567









I plan on installing some on my SLC this weekend.


----------



## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

I see how the rear license plate holder is retained at the top, but don't see how it is retained on the lower half. Anybody have pics of that or can explain how to remove it?


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

The bottom is held on by double sided foam tape and a lip goes over the bottom lip of the hatch. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

My rota-locs arrived today and I was very please with how things went. I only installed 3 because one hole is. Blocked by the spoiler. Some pics:

















Before I realized one of the holes was blocked.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

G60ING said:


> My rota-locs arrived today and I was very please with how things went. I only installed 3 because one hole is. Blocked by the spoiler.


I made that repair many years ago and it is still holding up 15+ years later. May I suggest using a rubber washer between the license plate tub and the hatch? I used a faucet washer there that was the correct ID. I believe the compliance in the rubber helps prevent the inevitable relative movement between the plastic and metal from cracking the plate tub.


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## mk2gti92 (Mar 30, 2013)

Hello everyone. 

Just wondering the difference in clutch lines with a non abs corrado and one with abs? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## brice017 (Oct 14, 2011)

*vr6 valve cover gasket. what else?*

93 vr6 valve cover gasket needs replaced. (coil pack if that matters)

what else should I replace while I am in there. are there spark plug "donut gaskets" that should be replaced? 

can I reuse the intake manifold gasket, or order new?

Just trying to line up parts, so I can hopefully have one project that I can actually complete in a single afternoon, instead of weeks of waiting on parts.


----------



## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

I hooked up a battery to my shell and my odometer reset to 0. Car is an automatic. Is there a way to fix it?


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

brice017 said:


> 93 vr6 valve cover gasket needs replaced. (coil pack if that matters)
> 
> what else should I replace while I am in there. are there spark plug "donut gaskets" that should be replaced?
> 
> ...


Hey just saw this - there's nothing under the upper intake except the fuel injectors and the valve cover gasket. The spark plug gaskets are a 24V thing. I would replace the gasket between the upper & lower manifolds because it's probably 25 years old now.
You will need to disconnect the EGR pipe to get the manifold off, and you might want to have a EGR valve gasket in case you need to disconnect the other end of the pipe.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

turtledub said:


> I hooked up a battery to my shell and my odometer reset to 0. Car is an automatic. Is there a way to fix it?


No kidding? People are going to be coming to you to reset their odometers soon. Shawn in the cluster swap thread might be able to help, he may have the EEPROM dump of a digital G60 cluster. I might even have one.


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

theprf said:


> No kidding? People are going to be coming to you to reset their odometers soon. Shawn in the cluster swap thread might be able to help, he may have the EEPROM dump of a digital G60 cluster. I might even have one.


Yeah it was weird. Hooked up the battery and all the lcds came on. Now it reads the odometer in km and it is at 0. Magic euro conversion?


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Mine went back to USA mode after waiting a few min to reconnect it. It occurred on my early clock with cable driven speedo. The scenario was that the battery had discharged to full rigor mortus. The shock of reconnecting it to a fully charged yellow top, at 12+ volts, seemed to re-flash the MFA. Glad it didn't fry the ecu.


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

petethepug said:


> Mine went back to USA mode after waiting a few min to reconnect it. It occurred on my early clock with cable driven speedo. The scenario was that the battery had discharged to full rigor mortus. The shock of reconnecting it to a fully charged yellow top, at 12+ volts, seemed to re-flash the MFA. Glad it didn't fry the ecu.


Did the mileage reset? If so, did it stay at 0 or did it eventually come back to normal?


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

I had the metric version flashed onto my cable driven version, so no electronic odo. Odds are, after you hard reboot, the previous miles recorded and the US spec'd MFA format will return to the display.


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

So I have an auto shell with ABS and I want to do a 5 speed swap. Is it pretty straight forward as detailed in the how to on the CCA write up or do I have to do anything with the abs that is in the auto shell?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

turtledub said:


> I hooked up a battery to my shell and my odometer reset to 0. Car is an automatic. Is there a way to fix it?


If the ODO reset, then the EEPROM is bad (at a min). They are suppose to be good for 50 years and something like 1million writes, iirc, but I have seems some go bad and do not hold memory properly. Could have been a flyback or surge that caused it to finally crap out.

Best bet is to get a new cluster, but the EEPROM can be replaced. Just not cheap.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

When the memory is gone, it will not come back. The CPU reads what is on the EEPROM and the EEPROM got written with Junk.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

mk2gti92 said:


> Hello everyone.
> 
> Just wondering the difference in clutch lines with a non abs corrado and one with abs?
> 
> ...


They are the same as they use the Same Clutch Master. They are different between the G60 and VR6, but either can be made to work. However, they do go bad and tend to split on one of the Bubble flares. USP Motorsports makes a Steel braided replacement that I would recommend.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

turtledub said:


> So I have an auto shell with ABS and I want to do a 5 speed swap. Is it pretty straight forward as detailed in the how to on the CCA write up or do I have to do anything with the abs that is in the auto shell?


Should not have to do anything with the ABS, the only thing you might need to change might be the vehicle speed sensor plug if the automatic trans version is different. I don't know, I have never seen an automatic Corrado.


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## c3k (May 1, 2006)

turtledub said:


> So I have an auto shell with ABS and I want to do a 5 speed swap. Is it pretty straight forward as detailed in the how to on the CCA write up or do I have to do anything with the abs that is in the auto shell?




ABS remains the same between 5 speed and automatic cars. You will however need the 5 speed clutch master/brake master bracket that fits between the ABS unit and the fire wall.


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

c3k said:


> ABS remains the same between 5 speed and automatic cars. You will however need the 5 speed clutch master/brake master bracket that fits between the ABS unit and the fire wall.


Is there a port on the auto brake fluid reservoir to go to the new clutch master?


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## 4th Branch (Oct 5, 2007)

I purchased a SLC with an aftermarket exhaust system but the PO did not know the specifics since he bought it as it sits. Can you tell me what has been modified by looking at the photos? http://imgur.com/a/Ouctq

Also, all 4 tires were mounted backwards (inside label was on the outside). Any reason why someone would do this?


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## VR-SICK RADO (Nov 17, 2010)

*Coolant Reservoir boiling over*

Hey guys, I have a 92 SLC 5-speed, and recently I have been having to add coolant/water to the reservoir, and today on the way home, I noticed steam coming from that area under the hood while I was at a red light. I pulled over popped the hood, water was boiling out of the reservoir onto the floor. I let everything cool off, then added some more water, and drove the 3 miles home. Any thoughts as to what would cause this?? Thermostat not opening possibly?


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

VR-SICK RADO said:


> Hey guys, I have a 92 SLC 5-speed, and recently I have been having to add coolant/water to the reservoir, and today on the way home, I noticed steam coming from that area under the hood while I was at a red light. I pulled over popped the hood, water was boiling out of the reservoir onto the floor. I let everything cool off, then added some more water, and drove the 3 miles home. Any thoughts as to what would cause this?? Thermostat not opening possibly?


You didn't say how many miles on the engine, but knowing VR6s, I would say it has a leaky head gasket, which is overpressurizing the cooling system causing the reservoir to blow its top. Mine did this and the coolant got into the ABS block below and caused ABS problems, so try to avoid that if you can. You will likely find the radiator hoses are extremely hard and rigid at operating temperature too. 

If you buy a Block Check, it will show you if there are hydrocarbons in the coolant which is from the combustion chamber. If it was the tstat, the car would either quickly overheat or run cold. I used Block Check from a cold start, and kept testing, and found hydrocarbons in the coolant at start up, then it sealed, then once up to operating temperature it leaked again. I had the head gasket replaced, and it solved the problem. You may have lost your low speed on your rad fan which allowed higher head temps that eventually had a negative effect on the HG.


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## CorradoFuhrer (Mar 21, 2002)

Common thing is the T stat sticking shut. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

a_riot said:


> You didn't say how many miles on the engine, but knowing VR6s, I would say it has a leaky head gasket, which is overpressurizing the cooling system causing the reservoir to blow its top. Mine did this and the coolant got into the ABS block below and caused ABS problems, so try to avoid that if you can. You will likely find the radiator hoses are extremely hard and rigid at operating temperature too.
> 
> If you buy a Block Check, it will show you if there are hydrocarbons in the coolant which is from the combustion chamber. If it was the tstat, the car would either quickly overheat or run cold. I used Block Check from a cold start, and kept testing, and found hydrocarbons in the coolant at start up, then it sealed, then once up to operating temperature it leaked again. I had the head gasket replaced, and it solved the problem. You may have lost your low speed on your rad fan which allowed higher head temps that eventually had a negative effect on the HG.


I'm living this right now. I did everything possible thinking it might have been cooling related. I bought the coolant hydrocarbon tester and it changed colors point to a head gasket issue. Problem with me is that I like to do things somewhat thoroughly so that means:

Rebuild head: valve guides, lifters and deck the head
Head gasket
Timing chains
And so on
Fortunately it already had cams as some point. 

$$$


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

VR-SICK RADO said:


> Hey guys, I have a 92 SLC 5-speed, and recently I have been having to add coolant/water to the reservoir, and today on the way home, I noticed steam coming from that area under the hood while I was at a red light. I pulled over popped the hood, water was boiling out of the reservoir onto the floor. I let everything cool off, then added some more water, and drove the 3 miles home. Any thoughts as to what would cause this?? Thermostat not opening possibly?


You also didn't say what you temperature gauge was showing - if it was normal then probably a leaky head gasket, though I would replace the coolant ball's cap first as they do go bad and spray water out when they should not. If the gauge was very high then probably a bad thermostat.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

turtledub said:


> Is there a port on the auto brake fluid reservoir to go to the new clutch master?


I could not say, although I have an extra manual trans brake fluid reservoir if you end up needing one. You could look around back on the reservoir you have and see if there's a cap there. ETKA shows only one part# for the reservoir so it may be the same for both.


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

How do I go about testing a cluster outside the car?


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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

You really can't. What's wrong with it? I have a spare vr cluster if you need a new one

Sent from my DL718M using Tapatalk


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

Dimmu said:


> You really can't. What's wrong with it? I have a spare vr cluster if you need a new one
> 
> Sent from my DL718M using Tapatalk


Trying to get the mileage off it. I hooked up a battery but got nothing. The wiring looks like it might be suspect.


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## JoJoWHATWHAT (Jul 5, 2016)

1990 VW Corrado G60

The notorious Seat Belt issue. Nor on mitchell or shop key or all data could i find any wiring diagram , does anyone have one so i can start testing why its not working

the driver seat belt is all the way foward, while the passenger seat belt is all the way back

i just need these working and want to find out why!

thanks guys :beer:


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)




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## Dimmu (May 25, 2014)

Gotta love diag trees


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## Dorrado (Dec 12, 2001)

Anybody happen to know the part number for the interior door handle trim (late interior)?

Upholstery guy lost both I think...I assume nla? Shared with any other vws?

Item number 33 in the parts diagram










Thanks for any help


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

Converting an auto to 5 speed. 

What bracket do I use for the brake booster? Car currently has abs. I do have a B4 tdi that is non abs. Can I use the parts from that to convert to non-abs?

What pedal clusters can I use? Will a VR6 passat cluster work?


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

That's an NLA thing, your right.

http://www.ebay.de/itm/VW-Corrado-F...016021?hash=item234fe13a95:g:HuAAAOSwrklVP6Pf










535837247 & 535837248 for the facelift version.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

turtledub said:


> Converting an auto to 5 speed.
> 
> What bracket do I use for the brake booster? Car currently has abs. I do have a B4 tdi that is non abs. Can I use the parts from that to convert to non-abs?
> 
> What pedal clusters can I use? Will a VR6 passat cluster work?


You should be able to use everything from the TDI, if you delete ABS. Assuming the TDI's manual. You will need a Corrado clutch line though (NLA). I would get one made up by a brake shop or find the one from TDN parts (I think it's them) or make one with AN fittings.
If your TDI is drive by wire (1997-1998 I think) you'll need to either swap it's clutch & brake pedal to the Corrado pedal cluster or swap the Corrado gas pedal to the TDI pedal cluster.

If you want to keep Corrado Teves 02 ABS, you'll need to get a Corrado manual ABS bracket. That should be easy to get - everyone dumps the Teves 02 ABS.


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

theprf said:


> You should be able to use everything from the TDI, if you delete ABS.
> 
> If you want to keep Corrado Teves 02 ABS, you'll need to get a Corrado manual ABS bracket. That should be easy to get - everyone dumps the Teves 02 ABS.


Great. I have to kill my daily to give life to my Corrado.

Big thanks for the info though.


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## Dorrado (Dec 12, 2001)

petethepug said:


> That's an NLA thing, your right.
> 
> 535837247 & 535837248 for the facelift version.


thanks a bunch for the info. One more question regarding a part number i cant find.

The passenger side window switch (535 959 855 E) has 2 metal clips that hold it in place. Mine are mia so the switch is loose, are these sold separately or does it require an entire new switch?










thanks for any info


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Save that switch. Buy a new or pre loved one from eBay. The metal clips would have to be salvaged from another switch. They're not sold separately. I'd get the upholstery guy to pony up for the NLA/NOS switch on ebay.

http://www.ebay.ie/sch/i.html?_odkw...+959+855+E+.TRS0&_nkw=535+959+855+E+&_sacat=0


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

theprf said:


> That should be easy to get - everyone dumps the Teves 02 ABS.


They do? How do I get these dumped Teves 02 ABS systems?


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

petethepug said:


> Save that switch. Buy a new or pre loved one from eBay. The metal clips would have to be salvaged from another switch. They're not sold separately. I'd get the upholstery guy to pony up for the NLA/NOS switch on ebay.
> 
> http://www.ebay.ie/sch/i.html?_odkw...+959+855+E+.TRS0&_nkw=535+959+855+E+&_sacat=0


Dorrado,


I'm with Pete. 

If you can, get the upholstery shop to buy the one on eBay (if they lost the clips). 

If you have to buy it, vwpartsbidding also operates as VWpartsoutlet.com where they sell the same items for less. However, they don't always have it in stock on the other website and you don't get free shipping. 

You could send them an email and ask if it's in stock:

http://www.vwpartsoutlet.com/oe-volkswagen/535959855e01c

Buck usually helps me with Phaeton parts.

-Eric


----------



## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

One more thing, Dorrado.

You should hurry up and get those trim pieces that Pete found also. I would buy them now (unless the upholstery shop found yours).

I tried to find the part number for you on the official VWOA parts site. The trim they showed was listed as being the same for all years of Corrado and was used on several other VWs. I knew the part numbers were incorrect but could not find the correct numbers. 

-Eric


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

While I'm in there, I'm planning to replace the control arm bushings during an AutoTech lower stress bar install during the Winter. The rear-most VR6 control arm bushing bolt appears to also be one of the bolts that tie the sub-frame to the body. Does the engine require support to remove that rear bolt?


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

^^^ after looking at Bentley again, I believe the answer is NO, besides lifting the engine up to get the oil pan above the passenger side forward control arm bolt. (or removing oil pan). I received a pm as well for general how to that was helpful :+1:?.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

JDCorrado said:


> While I'm in there, I'm planning to replace the control arm bushings during an AutoTech lower stress bar install during the Winter. The rear-most VR6 control arm bushing bolt appears to also be one of the bolts that tie the sub-frame to the body. Does the engine require support to remove that rear bolt?


You can remove the rear control arm bolt without messing with the subframe or supporting the engine. You do need to jack up the passenger's side of the engine to get that front bolt out. You need to jack it up a lot higher than you would think. I would remove all the motor mount bolts to allow it to be jacked easier. Watch the clearance at the front between the intake manifold and the radiator fan shroud - that is usually the limiting element when jacking it up.
Oh, use a board under the oil pan to keep from denting it with the jack.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

More noob q's
The control arm grommet bolt shafts will be in rotational contact with the inside of the metal bushings, so what type of grease do the experts use for that?

Anything on the grommet bolt threads? Dry, blue loctite, red loctite, other?

Thanks.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

JDCorrado said:


> More noob q's
> The control arm grommet bolt shafts will be in rotational contact with the inside of the metal bushings, so what type of grease do the experts use for that?
> 
> Anything on the grommet bolt threads? Dry, blue loctite, red loctite, other?
> ...


The rear bushings, if original, have a thin metal sleeve inside that needs to be pulled out after the bolt is removed. I have never actually seen a sleeve on any cars I have taken apart. I think the sleeve is to position the bushing properly during installation. If you use R32/Audi TT bushings the sleeve is not needed and cannot be used, the diameter of the bolt hole is sized perfectly for the bolt.

Both front and rear bushings - with the bolt properly tightened the metal insert in the bushing is squeezed inside the subframe and cannot rotate. The rear would not rotate anyway, there is no way for that to happen. The front would rotate if it is too loose so make sure it's tight. The trick is to tighten the front with the car on the ground, which preloads the front bushing correctly. I have never used locking compound on any of the chassis bolts. I do use never-seize.

I have found that disconnecting the sway bar on both sides first makes removing the control arms much easier.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

Wow, I was way off  
Thanks for the additional info. I believe my grommets are original so the thin sleeve may actually be there.
I'm going to be replacing the ball joints and sway bar links as well since I'm in there...24 year old parts lived a good long life :beer:

2 new rear grommet bolts and 2 bolts & nuts for the sway bar links from the dealer was $36


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

I would not change the ball joints unless you get new ones from the dealer. Same with the outer tie rod ends.

I put in "high quality" ball joints from a reputable supplier - they lasted less than a year - the originals were 24 years and 200k miles and were still in good condition.

I put in "high quality" outer tie rod ends from a reputable supplier - they lasted about 1 month, less than 1000 miles and were completely worn out. I then put in "Moog" replacement outer tie rod ends - lasted 3 months and were completely worn out, and one came apart while I was removing them.

I ended up with dealer parts for both, made by TRW, which I expect to last another 25 years.


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## brice017 (Oct 14, 2011)

*93 corrady VR6*

So, I don't know the service history of the 93 VR6 that I have

The engine sits tilted in the engine bay. The passenger side rear of the engine is approximately 1/2 - 3/4" higher than the rest of the engine.
Is this the proper stance of the engine factory, or what may be the cause of this tilt (engine mounts?)


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

brice017 said:


> So, I don't know the service history of the 93 VR6 that I have
> 
> The engine sits tilted in the engine bay. The passenger side rear of the engine is approximately 1/2 - 3/4" higher than the rest of the engine.
> Is this the proper stance of the engine factory, or what may be the cause of this tilt (engine mounts?)


Yes its normal. Although mounts are always an issue with these cars, so they do need maintenance. You just can't use the tilt of the engine to determine that.


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## JCab (Jul 20, 2014)

Alright quick question, last year I took apart the spoiler and all the bs in the back and motor worked real good, I cleaned out everything. Spoiler does activate according to Speed and with the switch, however, lately it's been blowing fuses on the way down, with or without switch. Any guesses as to what it could be? To put it back down I turn the manual crank for it and it's really really smooth, nothing binding up. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

JCab said:


> Alright quick question, last year I took apart the spoiler and all the bs in the back and motor worked real good, I cleaned out everything. Spoiler does activate according to Speed and with the switch, however, lately it's been blowing fuses on the way down, with or without switch. Any guesses as to what it could be? To put it back down I turn the manual crank for it and it's really really smooth, nothing binding up.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The motor gets filled up with carbon dust from the brushes. Did you take the motor apart and clean out the carbon dust? When you pull the handle out it disconnects the motor so if that winds smoothly the gearbox & teleflex cables are probably OK.


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## JCab (Jul 20, 2014)

theprf said:


> The motor gets filled up with carbon dust from the brushes. Did you take the motor apart and clean out the carbon dust? When you pull the handle out it disconnects the motor so if that winds smoothly the gearbox & teleflex cables are probably OK.


I did take apart the motor to see how it looked inside and it looked really clean. I remember just wiping some stuff with rags but didn't go crazy because it worked real well in both directions and looked clean. Do you Think the motor is my problem?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

JCab said:


> I did take apart the motor to see how it looked inside and it looked really clean. I remember just wiping some stuff with rags but didn't go crazy because it worked real well in both directions and looked clean. Do you Think the motor is my problem?


There are some microswitches & diodes attached to the gear box that stop the motor when extended/retracted and still allow it to go the other direction. If it extends properly all the time, and blows the fuse instantly when trying to retract all the time, could be something wrong with those switches or diodes.
I have only taken 2 motors apart, both with unknown miles, and both were full of carbon dust and would blow fuses randomly in either direction. If yours always is OK extending and always blow retracting, I suppose it could be the motor, or the underdash module, or those microswitches/diodes.
You might pull out the underdash module (it's right above the dash spoiler switch) take it's cover off and see if the relays in it are stuck. That would blow fuses like you see, too. Come to think of it, that's the most likely thing so check it first, I say.


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## Devbloggs (Jun 5, 2011)

curious if anyone could offer some info on this Chip that i have found in my G60 computer. Any help is appreciated, thanks


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

Do I really need a brake cylinder bracket for my 5 speed swap? Does it hold the clutch master in place at all? The holes are already there in the firewall. Does it space it out or something?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Devbloggs said:


> curious if anyone could offer some info on this Chip that i have found in my G60 computer. Any help is appreciated, thanks


Autothority was big back in the day. That's a stage 1 chip, nothing fancy. Tweaked map and raised RPM. The G60 does nothing after ~5800 - except eat itself.:thumbup:


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## JCab (Jul 20, 2014)

theprf said:


> There are some microswitches & diodes attached to the gear box that stop the motor when extended/retracted and still allow it to go the other direction. If it extends properly all the time, and blows the fuse instantly when trying to retract all the time, could be something wrong with those switches or diodes.
> I have only taken 2 motors apart, both with unknown miles, and both were full of carbon dust and would blow fuses randomly in either direction. If yours always is OK extending and always blow retracting, I suppose it could be the motor, or the underdash module, or those microswitches/diodes.
> You might pull out the underdash module (it's right above the dash spoiler switch) take it's cover off and see if the relays in it are stuck. That would blow fuses like you see, too. Come to think of it, that's the most likely thing so check it first, I say.


Thanks for the advice man, now I know where to start looking. I'm gonna take it out next chance I get to go home for a weekend (I'm living up at school now). It goes up nice, but it goes down really slow and sometimes it'll only get halfway down, sometimes a bit more, and then the fuse will blow. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

*Corrado VR6 coolant reservoir cap pressure rating*

I'm suspecting my coolant reservoir cap is holding the system under too much pressure. I'm trying to test the system under pressure and wondering at what pressure the coolant cap should start releasing pressure?


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

matsavol said:


> I'm suspecting my coolant reservoir cap is holding the system under too much pressure. I'm trying to test the system under pressure and wondering at what pressure the coolant cap should start releasing pressure?


What is the symptom you are looking into? The relief valve is supposed to open at 17.4-21.8 psi.


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

a_riot said:


> What is the symptom you are looking into? The relief valve is supposed to open at 17.4-21.8 psi.


I got upper radiator hose split twice in short period of time... First time it was right next to thermostat housing and I just cut the hose shorter. Second time it split further away and after cutting it I extended it with aftermarket generic hose... The hose appears to be original, so maybe it is just reaching its end of life. (And the recent 100F weather in TX probably wasn't helping...)

I did pressurize the system all the way and the cap releases pressure at ~22psi. That seems to agree what oreilly site says about the release pressure.


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

matsavol said:


> I got upper radiator hose split twice in short period of time... First time it was right next to thermostat housing and I just cut the hose shorter. Second time it split further away and after cutting it I extended it with aftermarket generic hose... The hose appears to be original, so maybe it is just reaching its end of life. (And the recent 100F weather in TX probably wasn't helping...)
> 
> I did pressurize the system all the way and the cap releases pressure at ~22psi. That seems to agree what oreilly site says about the release pressure.


Sounds like the cap is fine. Have you ever replaced the head gasket?


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

a_riot said:


> Sounds like the cap is fine. Have you ever replaced the head gasket?


I haven't and I'm not aware any previous owners had done it either. I haven't had any coolant loss nor have I ever smelled exhaust gas when opening the coolant reservoir.


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

matsavol said:


> I haven't and I'm not aware any previous owners had done it either. I haven't had any coolant loss nor have I ever smelled exhaust gas when opening the coolant reservoir.


How many miles on the engine? When my head gasket was leaking, the only coolant loss I had was from the reservoir cap relief valve when the pressure got too high. The coolant would overflow and land on the ABS block beneath causing my ABS/Ebrake lights to come on (which was another expensive and troublesome repair). I did a Block Check looking for hydrocarbons in the coolant, and found that when started cold, there were hydrocarbons in the coolant, then as the engine warmed up they went away, then once at operating temp they started again. 

Combustion pressure was leaking into the cooling jacket pushing coolant system pressures so high the cap relief valve would blow, and the hoses would get really stiff, and the engine would run hot due to the loss of cooling. So I had the head gasket changed and now its all back to normal, except I now have back all the power I was losing. 

If you leave the head gasket leaking, it will eventually blow all the hoses, gaskets, etc in the cooling system. Cylinder #1 and #2 are usually the culprits because there is less clamping force there since there is no corner bolt at the left front corner, and the head gaskets back then had issues, or perhaps weren't assembled quite right. The updated head gasket with proper clamping will prevent this and keep pressures where they should be, in the combustion chamber.


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

a_riot said:


> How many miles on the engine? When my head gasket was leaking, the only coolant loss I had was from the reservoir cap relief valve when the pressure got too high. The coolant would overflow and land on the ABS block beneath causing my ABS/Ebrake lights to come on (which was another expensive and troublesome repair). I did a Block Check looking for hydrocarbons in the coolant, and found that when started cold, there were hydrocarbons in the coolant, then as the engine warmed up they went away, then once at operating temp they started again.
> 
> Combustion pressure was leaking into the cooling jacket pushing coolant system pressures so high the cap relief valve would blow, and the hoses would get really stiff, and the engine would run hot due to the loss of cooling. So I had the head gasket changed and now its all back to normal, except I now have back all the power I was losing.
> 
> If you leave the head gasket leaking, it will eventually blow all the hoses, gaskets, etc in the cooling system. Cylinder #1 and #2 are usually the culprits because there is less clamping force there since there is no corner bolt at the left front corner, and the head gaskets back then had issues, or perhaps weren't assembled quite right. The updated head gasket with proper clamping will prevent this and keep pressures where they should be, in the combustion chamber.


It has now 191Kmiles.

I have not seen evidence of head gasket issues. The coolant reservoir level does not rise much when reaching operating temperature. I have never have seen it bubbling or overflowing. As said, the coolant level stayed constant until I had the radiator hose blowout. (And also between the last blowouts, about a month between them.) Also there is no oil seepage from the front end of head suggesting improved head gasket might be there? (Or to put the question other way: Is it even possible to not have that seepage with original head gasket and with this mileage/age?)

The chains and guides have most likely been done on this engine maybe <30K ago based on how the upper guide and tensioner looked. (I inspected them few months back with snake camera through the distributor opening.) It is possible the PO at that time did head job when they did the chains? (The head internals look very clean when looking at it from oil refill cap... No brown sludge/deposits there that I have seen in most heads being sold in ebay.)


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

matsavol said:


> It has now 191Kmiles.
> 
> I have not seen evidence of head gasket issues.


The cooling system overpressurizing *is* the evidence. How else is pressure building up in the cooling system to make the reservoir cap relief valve open? That pressure has to be coming from somewhere. Try squeezing the upper radiator hose when the engine is at full operating temperature and see how difficult it is to compress. 

The most likely place is the combustion chamber pressure getting into the water jacket. Even when the engine is hot on a hot day, with a correct coolant mix in the car, it should not overpressurize. The water pump alone can't do it. The "problem" with VR6 engines, is the head gasket doesn't dramatically fail like other engines, they just weep oil, or allow pressure into the cooling system which make it harder to spot. Since you are blowing hoses, and having the reservoir cap relief valve open on you, that would be my guess. Its sounds exactly the same as what mine was doing before I had the head gasket replaced, and now all is good. What do you suspect is the issue if not a leaking head gasket? Maybe someone else has a better suggestion. If I were you, I'd buy Block Check and see for myself. Cheap test.



matsavol said:


> It is possible the PO at that time did head job when they did the chains?


Some do both at the same time, but usually its because the head gasket goes first, and so they do everything while the engine is open. Some just do chains alone, since you can without taking the head off.


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

a_riot said:


> The cooling system overpressurizing *is* the evidence. How else is pressure building up in the cooling system to make the reservoir cap relief valve open? That pressure has to be coming from somewhere. Try squeezing the upper radiator hose when the engine is at full operating temperature and see how difficult it is to compress.
> 
> The most likely place is the combustion chamber pressure getting into the water jacket. Even when the engine is hot on a hot day, with a correct coolant mix in the car, it should not overpressurize. The water pump alone can't do it. The "problem" with VR6 engines, is the head gasket doesn't dramatically fail like other engines, they just weep oil, or allow pressure into the cooling system which make it harder to spot. Since you are blowing hoses, and having the reservoir cap relief valve open on you, that would be my guess. Its sounds exactly the same as what mine was doing before I had the head gasket replaced, and now all is good. What do you suspect is the issue if not a leaking head gasket? Maybe someone else has a better suggestion. If I were you, I'd buy Block Check and see for myself. Cheap test.
> 
> ...


When the engine and coolant system heats up it builds up pressure by nature due to thermal expansion. It is actually important to have it pressurized because otherwise the coolant will boil at too low temperature. This is especially true for hot running engines such as the VR6. The hoses gets stiff, but that is no different than any other car I have tried.

It does not seem there is any hissing sound on the reservoir cap. I could try to put soapy water (soap bubble) to the coolant reservoir vent and see if I can spot gas bubbles escaping from there. If there was a problem, I should be seeing bubbles forming there constantly?

As said it has been summer (hot) weather here in TX last month or so. I do mostly stop and go driving in city traffic. While sitting at stoplights I frequently see the second (high speed) radiator fan kick in. (For the record, the first fan speed works fine and kicks in at lower temperature, and runs all the time with AC engaged.) The high speed fan kicks in just before the temp gauge reach 230 mark. That certainly puts the system under maximum design pressure and the coolant hoses, which appears to be original (24 years old), are starting to give up.

For the Block Check test it seems you need a flow of gas bubbles for it to work. As said I do not see gas bubbles coming into the coolant reservoir so I'm not sure this test works for me? 

It does seem we are in slight disagreement what is "normal behavior"... Maybe some VR6 cooling system expert can chime in?

EDIT: I just did the "soap bubble test" and it looked good.  I started the car cold, applied soap foam to the coolant reservoir vent holes. I let the car warm up and monitored the vents for any bubbles. Near reaching the operating temperature there was little bubbles but they stopped when the fan kicked in and temperature (and pressure) stopped increasing. If there was a head gasket leak I should have continued to see bubbles forming. I even revved up the engine trying to increase combustion chamber pressures but it did not make any difference.


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

matsavol said:


> the coolant reservoir vent holes.


What are you referring to here? The only venting I'm aware of is the reservoir cap.


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## Devbloggs (Jun 5, 2011)

mateok said:


> Autothority was big back in the day. That's a stage 1 chip, nothing fancy. Tweaked map and raised RPM. The G60 does nothing after ~5800 - except eat itself.:thumbup:


Thanks for your help, much appreciated


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

a_riot said:


> What are you referring to here? The only venting I'm aware of is the reservoir cap.


The two passages that are on the side of the coolant reservoir. They are covered by that removable black plastic splash guard. When the cap pressure relief vent opens the escaping gas/liquid from the cap is guided to these passages.


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## brice017 (Oct 14, 2011)

*93 vr6 SAI delete*

SAI delete on 93 VR6.

Question - Vacuum lines.

From the solenoid 
https://sites.google.com/site/stoyn...r-injection-system/SAI_components_removed.JPG
one line goes to the valve in the engine block (that gets deleted and plugged).
one other line goes to the top of the engine, Tees, and goes to the fuel pressure regulator and to a vacuum fitting on the intake manifold.

this tutorial only shows capping the solenoid by making a loop using vacuum lines
https://sites.google.com/site/stoyn...moving-the-sai-secondary-air-injection-system

but, what to do with the vacuum fittings on the fuel pressure regulator and the fitting on the intake manifold. Do I just loop these two fittings together? It is not made clear in the tutorial.

Thanks!


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Just run a vac line to the regulator from the manifold. No other bs. Done.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

My tan power steering bottle with the red cap seems to have an oily glaze to it on the top and sides. I've been trying to isolate where it is coming from, but seems like it may be coming from the cap or the seam at the top of the tan canister where the long rectangular-ish holes are. The red cap's o-ring is pancaked so that may be the culprit.. Anybody have an issue with the top of the tan canister seam leaking?

I'm not sure if I can just buy a new O-Ring, so I may go this route:
http://www.mk1autohaus.com/Power-Steering-Reservoir-Cap_p_6872.html
Or possibly get a whole new assembly from NKAutomotive (Greece):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/261777342868?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

I'd get a new bottle, buddy. I bought two new ones when that old stock surfaced awhile ago. Used the opportunity to clean out the lines while I was at it. A lot of junk accumulated after 25 years in the bottle and lines.:thumbup:


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

Buying one part for the Corrado...end up with more parts to hoard:


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## jaweber (May 13, 2013)

JDCorrado said:


> Buying one part for the Corrado...end up with more parts to hoard:


Are you buying from that place in Greece? Every time I look at their inventory I find multiple things to buy :facepalm:


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## chrism1 (Sep 21, 2014)

i think everyone is buying parts from that guy in greece....i know i have bought a bunch of NOS stuff


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

Are auto G60 transmission computers interchangeable?


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## banginggears01 (May 22, 2015)

Why you guys Been fooling around with g60 I got recently and running into some jerry rigging and lots of unplugged things was to to show you guys and get your in put already found some idiot took off the boot return line ?! Screwy car just constantly whistles in my foot it's through he floor alright so on to my plugs 
1








2








3 I'm pretty sure this is for the fan but he had it bypassed 








4







ok I know this for the 02 but those whiles clipped at the plug is this normal ? 
5 this isn't normal 








6








I know this is fooked but they did at least route it too the sc 
So that's a lot of Qs at once I tried to number all pictures and anything you can see or know let me know I'm not to to vws but the g60 is new to me corrados are not lol thanks in advance ! 
Damn I just read this my self and I can't type for **** lol


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

banginggears01 said:


> Why you guys Been fooling around with g60 I got recently and running into some jerry rigging and lots of unplugged things was to to show you guys and get your in put already found some idiot took off the boot return line ?! Screwy car just constantly whistles in my foot it's through he floor alright so on to my
> I know this is fooked but they did at least route it too the sc
> So that's a lot of Qs at once I tried to number all pictures and anything you can see or know let me know I'm not to to vws but the g60 is new to me corrados are not lol thanks in advance !


1, Oil pressure gauge sender. Not sure if that's a dual sender, doesn't look like one. There's three wires on a G60 that transmit oil data. Low & high pressure and temperature. 

The low pressure sensor (0.3 bar,g) is attached to the charger oil feed pickup on the side of the head and uses a BL/BK wire. That's normally closed and makes the red dash light blink when you turn on the ignition. It opens as soon as the engine is started and the light goes out. 

The high pressure sensor (1.8 bar,g) is attached to oil filter flange and uses a Yellow wire. It's normally closed and is ignored by the DOP system until >2K rpm. That's the one that sets off the alarm if it runs afoul. Remove the yellow wire and start the engine. It'll go off after about a minute without a signal. 

The other wire on the oil filter flange is the oil temp (Y/BK). That goes to the MFA readout. 

2, can't see the wire color, but the connector looks like the A/C compressor clutch. G/BK wire and it is. 

3, A/C high pressure switch. The round thing beside the battery, attached the the A/C line. That's the harness side connector pictured. 

4, o2 sensor - and not a good looking one at that. The shield wire's been cut and I can see exposed copper on the signal. That would be an interesting graph in real time. 

5, no, it's not. You're missing an ISV. Do you absolutely need one? No, but you absolutely have to plug that port. Unmetered air is troublesome. 

6, where does the other end of that hose go? It should vent somewhere or crankcase pressure will blow the dipstick out. 


That car is a mess. Good luck.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

mateok said:


> 1, Oil pressure gauge sender. Not sure if that's a dual sender, doesn't look like one. There's three wires on a G60 that transmit oil data. Low & high pressure and temperature.


Agreed looks like an aftermarket sender for the aftermarket oil pressure gauge.
http://www.corrado-club.ca/ Under Technical Help/Technical Resource you can download wire schematic for the year of your Corrado this may help sort things out.


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## banginggears01 (May 22, 2015)

I have the isv valve just was giving it at clean I meant that Crap right above it so those wires that are clipped on the o2 is that normal ?? And the crank case breather is vented to the sc
I didn't see a after market one in the car oil pressure gage 


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

banginggears01 said:


> I have the isv valve just was giving it at clean I meant that Crap right above it so those wires that are clipped on the o2 is that normal ?? And the crank case breather is vented to the sc
> I didn't see a after market one in the car oil pressure gage
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Looks like the original O2 was replaced with a Bosch Ford sensor, two white are for the heater, one white = 12V the other = ground, black from sensor (signal) to violet of the ECU. Looks like the ground shielding for the signal wire has been cut off, the shielding provides protection from the heater wires which can create interference on the signal wire.


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## banginggears01 (May 22, 2015)

Ok I thought it looked funny it's on my turbo vr corrado just not I guess that's the cheap way out so while fooling around with I figure out the charger has been rebuilt I removed all the charge pipes intercooler throttle body and clean everything out the charger has the silencer removed and a huge polished piece in its place and pilot had been replaced to its in really good shape but I guess they just through the charger on after they rebuilt it because the intercooler had a **** ton of funk in the isv was filthy just every thing was needed a good cleaning got her all back together and it's purring a lot smooth idle throttle is very responsive my afr are a lot better now and the most important thing Constant boost hits 15 real quick but unfortunately I still don't have a boost return so the stupid whoosh is still there another day done 


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## turtledub (May 10, 2006)

Anyone have an answer to if the TCM computers are interchangeable?


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## The Dubbernaut (Feb 1, 2010)

Looking to change my SC cog belt. The last time I did it was 2005 before I deployed. Its sat since then at my parents place in the SE Washington dry farm climate and before I start driving it again, I want to change that belt. I had help last time from some other G60 owners in San Diego/National City, but I cant remember how I did it last time. I ordered the BBM belt and Im trying to find some DIY's online. I remember we didnt have to take the G60 out of the car and we didnt remove the bracket, only the upper cover. Anyone have a link or DIY from another forum I could check out? Wanted to do it this weekend since the belt gets here tomorrow...


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

turtledub said:


> Anyone have an answer to if the TCM computers are interchangeable?


Both from a G60? I can't see where they would be different, the auto trans wiring diagrams are the same for all G60 cars.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

The Dubbernaut said:


> Looking to change my SC cog belt. The last time I did it was 2005 before I deployed. Its sat since then at my parents place in the SE Washington dry farm climate and before I start driving it again, I want to change that belt. I had help last time from some other G60 owners in San Diego/National City, but I cant remember how I did it last time. I ordered the BBM belt and Im trying to find some DIY's online. I remember we didnt have to take the G60 out of the car and we didnt remove the bracket, only the upper cover. Anyone have a link or DIY from another forum I could check out? Wanted to do it this weekend since the belt gets here tomorrow...


You can take the serp belt off the pulley, slip it over, through the bracket hole, and onto the cogs. Won't work with the factory pulley, though, because of the shield.


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## banginggears01 (May 22, 2015)

Ok so more weird corrado questions so car runs great after cleaning all the plumbing and throttle body intercooler and tightening everything up I'm hitting 15-16 pounds at 6200 pulls nice and steady now 2 things that are weird to me after driving it more 
1 the battery light will give a dim flicker when in the higher Rpms so I'm assuming belt slipping loose it's probably never been changed that is on the to do list along with all the other belts both idler pulleys and tensioners 
2 this one kinda blows my mind but I'm assuming vacuum leak if I turn the heat all the way over and move the location all the way over the car will jump to like 2500 rpms did a couple of searches but could not come up with anything and I haven't dug into my Bentley figured I ask the pros first.... And I wanted to know what size pulley you guys think is on here so I can get the right size belt for the sc 15-16 pounds at 6200roms would like to know the size if I did or did not have ac thanks 

Forgot these

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## denver_fox (Oct 15, 2011)

Heres a quick question for the experts.

What do you guys use to grease the back of the steering wheel? And do you remove it to grease it? My rado has an annoying metal on metal noise coming from the wheel, which I am guessing is the horn contact rubbing.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

chrism1 said:


> i think everyone is buying parts from that guy in greece....i know i have bought a bunch of NOS stuff


I think I have been buying parts from Nick for 10 years now. He's usually quite reasonable and the parts arrive quickly. 

-Eric


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

denver_fox said:


> Heres a quick question for the experts.
> 
> What do you guys use to grease the back of the steering wheel? And do you remove it to grease it? My rado has an annoying metal on metal noise coming from the wheel, which I am guessing is the horn contact rubbing.


Every time I have had a Scirocco or Corrado steering wheel off, it seems like the grease is just standard tan dielectric grease. (Like switches are packed with.)

You could just buy bulb grease at any local parts store. 

Oh, yeah you would probably have to remove it. You could try smearing some grease on a piece of paper or really thin ridged plastic (or a feeler gauge) and see if you can slide it in there.

-Eric


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## denver_fox (Oct 15, 2011)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Every time I have had a Scirocco or Corrado steering wheel off, it seems like the grease is just standard tan dielectric grease. (Like switches are packed with.)
> 
> You could just buy bulb grease at any local parts store.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the reply, Eric. I'll give the dielectric grease a try! I have a big tube of it I bought to grease my moonroof tracks occasionally. :thumbup:


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

denver_fox said:


> Thanks for the reply, Eric. I'll give the dielectric grease a try! I have a big tube of it I bought to grease my moonroof tracks occasionally. :thumbup:


You're welcome. Some noises can really rattle you. 

Sorry 

-Eric


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## vw16v88 (Oct 4, 2002)

This is the exposed metal lever on the side of the front seat to gain access to the back seats.

I am not sure if it is bent or suppose to be like this?



















-Jeff


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

vw16v88 said:


> This is the exposed metal lever on the side of the front seat to gain access to the back seats.
> 
> I am not sure if it is bent or suppose to be like this?
> 
> -Jeff


Supposed to be straight. The knob clicks onto the two half-moon shaped cutouts.


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## vw16v88 (Oct 4, 2002)

theprf said:


> Supposed to be straight. The knob clicks onto the two half-moon shaped cutouts.


Thanks. I thought so. Now how to bend it back without breaking it....

-Jeff


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## JCab (Jul 20, 2014)

am not sure how that little clip like spring is supposed to be. Shifter is a bit "sloppy" but I doubt it could be from this. Anybody have any pics / info on what's supposed to be there and how it's supposed to be there?


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

JCab said:


> am not sure how that little clip like spring is supposed to be. Shifter is a bit "sloppy" but I doubt it could be from this. Anybody have any pics / info on what's supposed to be there and how it's supposed to be there?


It's together wrong and can make things sloppy.
The "top" spring leg in your picture is supposed to be under the tabs that move back and forth.
The tab that is adjustable with the bolt sets the neutral position of the lever. 
Fix the spring. Set the trans in 3rd. Loosen that bolt, let the tab center itself, tighten back up. Then it should shift between 3rd & 4th without moving the lever left-right at all.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

*Sudden drop in boost*

Hey all, I have a 90 G60, and it was running just fine (well except for the leaking rack and pinion and heater coolant flange on the block) I started noticing a slight drop in hp. It was one of those things that a true corrado driver would notice. I have a boost/vacuum gauge, so I took it out to the highway and at reline in third gear I was only getting about 7lbs of boost. I first thought that I would need a rebuild, but it just happened so suddenly. it was literaly over night that I went from ~10lbs to 7lbs. Is there something else I should be looking at, or is it just Apex seals failing? I have neuspeed metal boost tubes to the intercooler, and less than a year ago, I had the IC off and cleaned it. I looked in the tubes and silencer, but that is only traces of oil, not large amounts.

I have a neuspeed cold air intake filter, and I just cleaned it a week ago. Curiously enough the drop started right around if not exactly when I cleaned it (I don't remember exactly). To clean it I used their cleaning stuff and followed their directions. Could that have had something to do with it? 

Thanks all.


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Could that have had something to do with it?
> 
> Thanks all.


Sure could. I stick with paper filters since they work so well and are cheap and don't require cleaning/oiling. I would toss in an OE air filter and see what happens.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Odds are a vacuum line disintegrated since the motor was touched.... check the vacuum lines, boost hoses and all the easy stuff first. A run w/o the CAI would immediately determine if there was an intake obstruction.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

a_riot said:


> Sure could. I stick with paper filters since they work so well and are cheap and don't require cleaning/oiling. I would toss in an OE air filter and see what happens.


I still like the oiled ones, less waste. I would definitly test it your way if ii hadn't been the PO who put in the CAI, and tossed the original airbox.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

petethepug said:


> Odds are a vacuum line disintegrated since the motor was touched.... check the vacuum lines, boost hoses and all the easy stuff first. A run w/o the CAI would immediately determine if there was an intake obstruction.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I checked the boost hoses, and over my 3 years owning this G60, I have replace every vacuum line it has, including the ECU one. That one was done about a year and a half ago when I was having a lot of vacuum leaks.


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

ArchAngel4 said:


> I still like the oiled ones, less waste. I would definitly test it your way if ii hadn't been the PO who put in the CAI, and tossed the original airbox.


Try this. Use your oiled filter for about 6 months after a cleaning, then switch to paper. You will be shocked how poorly an oiled filter flows when it gets a little bit dirty. Maybe brand new they flow better than paper, but it doesn't take very long before the opposite becomes the case. I do clean my paper filter occasionally too. I pull it out and knock the dust and dirt out of it and put it back in. Takes about 1 minute to clean


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## b5in (Sep 10, 2003)

I took over a project and I have done a ton of research I promise but I still have an ABS question...

car: 1992 SLC 5spd

symptoms: constant solid "*brake!*" light and "*ABS*" light on dash & the pedal is SUPER hard to push down and barely stops the car.

One of my rear speed sensors I noticed is broken, would that cause the whole system not to work?


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

b5in said:


> I took over a project and I have done a ton of research I promise but I still have an ABS question...
> 
> car: 1992 SLC 5spd
> 
> ...


Wheel speed sensors would make the ABS light come on and disable the ABS, this would not affect the power assist. 

The BRAKE light on with no power assist means either: 
no fluid in the reservoir;
no power to the ABS hydraulic pump;
or, most likely, the ABS hydraulic pump is burned out because the ABS accumulator is shot.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

ArchAngel4 said:


> I checked the boost hoses, and over my 3 years owning this G60, I have replace every vacuum line it has, including the ECU one. That one was done about a year and a half ago when I was having a lot of vacuum leaks.


Are you running an ISV bypass?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## b5in (Sep 10, 2003)

theprf said:


> Wheel speed sensors would make the ABS light come on and disable the ABS, this would not affect the power assist.
> 
> The BRAKE light on with no power assist means either:
> no fluid in the reservoir;
> ...


that's not what I wanted to hear


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

theprf said:


> or, most likely, the ABS hydraulic pump is burned out because the ABS accumulator is shot.


Don't cry yet! The pump may be burned out because the pressure switch wasn't working and let the pump run on and on overheating it, but I think these Ate pumps are pretty rugged though, and will take a lot of abuse. I think you can put power to the pump and see if it runs (for a few seconds) but I haven't tried that. If it does, then look at the pressure switch and/or accumulator. If the pressure switch fails, and the pump isn't notified to turn on when the pressure drops below its threshold, that will cause an ABS and power assist loss as well. I had the opposite problem, where the switch failed and the pump continually ran, so I had the two lights on but still had power assist. 

Luckily I ignored the advice of all the techs I took it to, and didn't drive it until I found what the issue was, so I didn't end up burning out the pump. Once the switch was replaced all was fine. It may be that the switch and switch bore is just dirty as well, preventing the spring from releasing, so removing it and cleaning the bore and switch with brake kleen might be all that's needed if you are lucky. Mine failed because coolant overflowed from the reservoir and spilled all over it. Next day I had the 2 glowing lights  When I removed the switch, sure enough, there was pink residue inside the bore and all over the end of the switch. It helps to have one of these sockets too.


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## b5in (Sep 10, 2003)

The car has been sitting for a few years, I'll clean the connectors and see if I can get the switch out to try and clean too. I noticed the brake fluid res. is wayyy over filled to so I will take some of that out as well. :beer:




Also anybody know what this goes to, it's 3 prong and the wire colors are *Black* - *White/Blue stripe* - *Brown*


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

b5in said:


> The car has been sitting for a few years, I'll clean the connectors and see if I can get the switch out to try and clean too. I noticed the brake fluid res. is wayyy over filled to so I will take some of that out as well. :beer:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's the vehicle speed sensor plug.

I believe if you unplug the ABS pressure switch the pump should run continuously. Or you may need to jump 2 terminals in the pressure switch plug. I can't remember. You might just check voltage on the pump's plug, it's the big 2-pin plug on the ABS valve block. That will eliminate any wiring/fuse questions. The pump is relayed and fused separately from the fuse block, there are 2 relays and fuses behind the instrument cluster that are for the ABS.

The brake fluid reservoir will be really full if the accumulator is empty. If the pump were running it would move about 4 ounces of brake fluid into the accumulator, which brings the reservoir back to a normal level. So you'll need to recheck & add fluid after you get the pump working.


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

Sorry, wrong info, how could I forget white/blue is vehicle speed sensor...


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

I had those lights on my Corrado after it sat for 8 months. I had it running, jabbed brakes, moved the car to a different parking spot (had to move it is why I started it). Then when I was getting ready to go find the problem and start my troubleshooting it started working again... Maybe try a few more key-cycles and pedal jabs. LOL


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## b5in (Sep 10, 2003)

theprf said:


> That's the vehicle speed sensor plug.



Also I only had one relay and fuse behind the cluster


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

b5in said:


> Also I only had one relay and fuse behind the cluster


So the ABS pump relay was missing? That's a fairly easy fix.


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## b5in (Sep 10, 2003)

a_riot said:


> So the ABS pump relay was missing? That's a fairly easy fix.


Sorry, I meant there's only a spot for 1 relay and fuse, nothing else. I'll try and take a pic tonight when I get home


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## b5in (Sep 10, 2003)

OK new development, I found the other fuse for the ABS which is the second one from the left clipped on to the top of the fuse panel and it was blown. So I went to put a new one in and it popped as soon as it touched. I took the panel off covering the ABS ECU and a drop of water was present and I haven't opened it up yet but from the outside it looks as if it has water damage even the bracket is all rusty :banghead:

My question is, it has the same part# as a Passat ABS ECU, does anybody know definitively if it will work in my Corrado, it should right?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

535 907 379 F was the last new one available. It was superseded to 379 X in '09 and then dropped in '11. 

Other models that use that controller are:
90-92 Jetta
90-91 Passat/4 Motion
92-94 Passat/4 Motion
91-94 Passat/syncro


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

b5in said:


> OK new development, I found the other fuse for the ABS which is the second one from the left clipped on to the top of the fuse panel and it was blown. So I went to put a new one in and it popped as soon as it touched. I took the panel off covering the ABS ECU and a drop of water was present and I haven't opened it up yet but from the outside it looks as if it has water damage even the bracket is all rusty


I seriously doubt the ECU is the problem. Unplug the hydraulic pump - it's the 2 pin plug under the brake fluid reservoir - and put in a new fuse. I bet the fuse holds. If so that says the hydraulic pump is seized.


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## b5in (Sep 10, 2003)

theprf said:


> I seriously doubt the ECU is the problem. Unplug the hydraulic pump - it's the 2 pin plug under the brake fluid reservoir - and put in a new fuse. I bet the fuse holds. If so that says the hydraulic pump is seized.


I'll try that when I get home, thanks for the direction, I need to get this sorted before the snow gets here :beer:


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## b5in (Sep 10, 2003)

sorry to keep asking soo many questions but I was trying to blink the ABS codes per instructions found on a Corrado forum and when I went to jump the 2 pins a fuse popped and my ABS & brake light went out

is this correct to get the ABS blink codes:


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

You have a dead short to ground somewhere. Either the circuit is compromised or the controller has failed in that manner. The L wire you jumped goes to pin T55/52 of the controller, which controls the ABS warning light. Did it blow S16?

You need to roll your sleeves up and get to work. Test the controller's circuit first. 
Ignition OFF
Unplug the connector
Set MM to Ohms
Test pins 1 & 19 to chassis ground
Should see <0.5 Ohm

Ignition ON and start engine
Set MM to 20V range
Test pin 14 to chassis ground
Should see Alt voltage
Pin 14 is the control side of the ABS relay. It's powered by switched ignition (15) and the controller sends a ground signal to activate (like ECM relay). 

** Verify your meter's fused in case the problem is in the circuit. S53 should pop before the meter does, but I never trust a VW to do the right thing.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

There's also a diode in the main ABS relay - not the pump relay - that can short and cause this as well. J102, ABS relay, pin 3/30. 
We had a thread last year about this diode and it was causing the entire ABS system to not work.


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## b5in (Sep 10, 2003)

might be a moot point to test now, I opened up the ABS controller and there is a lot of corrosion inside, looks like water got in and sat for a while, I just hope it didn't short anything else out as well


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

*Help geting the counter balancer off the G charger mainshaft*

It doesn't want to budge, how do I pull it.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

b5in said:


> might be a moot point to test now, I opened up the ABS controller and there is a lot of corrosion inside, looks like water got in and sat for a while, I just hope it didn't short anything else out as well


I already knew it was toast. My test is for the circuit, not the controller. Those are not water-resistant and mounted below a known leak point. Not to mention all the water our feet drag in. About as stupid as mounting the FCM under the coolant ball. VW moved both of those after the warranty claims started. Seems they hope for the best and just clean up the mess when it fails - TDI.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Jimweis said:


> It doesn't want to budge, how do I pull it.


Very carefully. Do Not attempt to pry on the displacer. I've found even a plastic trim tool will bend magnesium. 

Spray Liquid Wrench or equivalent around the counterweight and let it soak. Dried up oil and the woodruff key have it seized onto the shaft. 

Once the penetrating oil has done its thing, pull the counterweight up with your fingers and tap the end of the shaft with a hammer. You just want vibrations to unsettle the bond. Friction is the only thing holding it on once the circlip is removed.


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

mateok said:


> Very carefully. Do Not attempt to pry on the displacer. I've found even a plastic trim tool will bend magnesium.
> 
> Spray Liquid Wrench or equivalent around the counterweight and let it soak. Dried up oil and the woodruff key have it seized onto the shaft.
> 
> Once the penetrating oil has done its thing, pull the counterweight up with your fingers and tap the end of the shaft with a hammer. You just want vibrations to unsettle the bond. Friction is the only thing holding it on once the circlip is removed.


Thanks I give it a try, sure don't want to mess this unit up, seems to be in nice condition.


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

Got it, I used Deep Creep. The keys were a pain to remove though.
Thanks
Nice clean main shaft, this was a good buy for $120.


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## b5in (Sep 10, 2003)

mateok said:


> Did it blow S16? *Yes that's the fuse that blew*
> 
> 
> Ignition OFF
> ...


___Findings are in red above



Also when I 1st got the car I noticed the fuse with the red arrow pointed to it was blown, so when I went to replace it I noticed even with ignition off when I put the fuse in it activates a relay somewhere. If I take it out and put it back in I hear a click everytime


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

b5in said:


> might be a moot point to test now, I opened up the ABS controller and there is a lot of corrosion inside, looks like water got in and sat for a while, I just hope it didn't short anything else out as well


If you want to remove the dried minerals on the PCB use 99% rubbing alcohol with a soft bristle toothbrush. Let it dry repeat as needed. I'd suggest doing the back side as well.


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## V-TEC this!!! (May 4, 2003)

*Fuel line at the tank*

Can anyone tell me 100% that these fittings work for the corrado fuel lines coming out of the tank? I have not been able to find anything online.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

V-TEC this!!! said:


> Can anyone tell me 100% that these fittings work for the corrado fuel lines coming out of the tank? I have not been able to find anything online.


Not without custom work to fit it.


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## banginggears01 (May 22, 2015)

That looks like something for a surge tank .... 


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

-6an clampable hose will go right over the stock plastic lines. I usually use one time use clamps and the appropriate tool for them. Called single ear or stepless.


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## hallkbrd (Apr 8, 2000)

Get some Kroil, let is soak in, and repeat. It should then come off much easier.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

petethepug said:


> Are you running an ISV bypass?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hey, no I am not running an ISV bypass. Over the weekend, I pulled the intercooler over the weekend to look inside. There was not much oil, but these small pieces fell out. 










Is it safe to assume they are pieces of the Apex strips and a rebuild is needed? Thanks.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Ta Dah!! Winner! Have your IC hot tanked while it's out. Consider it a mandatorily 10 year/ 150K mi service that was overlooked. Got a standby g laser to slap in?


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

petethepug said:


> Ta Dah!! Winner! Have your IC hot tanked while it's out. Consider it a mandatorily 10 year/ 150K mi service that was overlooked. Got a standby g laser to slap in?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Whooo, I won a repair bill!. Thanks for the feedback petethepug. When i bought the car, the owner said the charger had been rebuilt ~10k miles prior to the sale. That means that there are only about 37k miles on the charger. I am running the stock pulley, is this a just replace the strips rebuild or should I go all in, especially since I am not leaking oil inside. The IC had very little oil in it. If you have rebuilt one yourself, how hard is it? I am not a novice when it comes to fixing the beast (I rebuilt the tranny without problems) but I was wondering if it was a better idea to send it out, rather than do it my self. Thanks for you help.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

You've checked boost via the MFA under full load right? "IF" the scenario is a recent rebuild, verified low boost via MFA and the loss of a strip, find out who did the g lader service. If it's a good shop, they may comp part of your bill.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

petethepug said:


> You've checked boost via the MFA under full load right? "IF" the scenario is a recent rebuild, verified low boost via MFA and the loss of a strip, find out who did the g lader service. If it's a good shop, they may comp part of your bill.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That would be nice, but the rebuild was done ~10k before I bought the car 3 years ago. I have no idea who did the rebuild. I have checked the boost under full load, though I put a boost/vacuum gauge a couple years back just so I could monitor the boost and vacuum. I used to be able to get 10-11 psi at redline in third, now I only get 6-7psi at redline in third. The vacuum measure hasn't changed, still 11 at idle, and 18-20 inhg under load with transmission braking. these are the same numbers I have seen since I put in the gauge, confirming that it is definitely still working properly.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

If you don't have a spare charger, buy one from Johnny or Jason at BBM or Fast Ln. German. The $250-$500 spent on a known, good used G lader is better in the long run. Once you swap out your dead G lader with a pre-loved unit, you can save to have the broken one serviced the way you want.

I have 2G lader and a Lysholm that gets rotated between service intervals.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

petethepug said:


> If you don't have a spare charger, buy one from Johnny or Jason at BBM or Fast Ln. German. The $250-$500 spent on a known, good used G lader is better in the long run. Once you swap out your dead G lader with a pre-loved unit, you can save to have the broken one serviced the way you want.
> 
> I have 2G lader and a Lysholm that gets rotated between service intervals.
> 
> ...


Thats exactly what I want to do, I try to have at least one spare of a bunch of the more important parts, including my transmission. How do I get in touch with those guys?


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Fast Lane German Tuning: https://www.facebook.com/Fast-Lane-German-Tuning-LLC-821197304604299/
or 
BBM: https://www.facebook.com/BBMBahnBrennerMotorsport/

The knowledge base of the Corrado between these two is unrivaled.


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## modeliuks (Sep 14, 2013)

When i pulled the dash out i found 2 small plastic pieces. On the smaller one it says ml3 and on the bigger one it says ml4. Do you know from where are these parts?
I just split the charger and there is a lot of oil inside do you know with what I can clean that oil without damaging the charger?


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

The plastic pieces look like the HVAC outlet louvers (used to direct the airflow out of the FACE outlets). :beer:


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

*Left side inner tie rod end replacement*

I'm preparing to replace my driver (left) side inner tie rod end. Per Bentley you should remove the whole rack from car, but it seems that most people do it when installed in the car with success. I assume the reason of taking the rack off the car is to protect the rack mounting screws and bushings from getting stressed?

But my question is that what (hopefully inexpensive) tools works on getting the inner tie rod loosened from the rack?

The best might be this Harbor Freight tool?
http://www.harborfreight.com/inner-tie-rod-removal-set-69619.html

But this cheaper one from ebay should work as well?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/371588933519?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

One possibility maybe rent/borrow the tool from local auto parts store?

I'm leaning towards to the ebay tool but would not if someone already tried that and it didn't work?


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## banginggears01 (May 22, 2015)

The only one that I could get to fit was the one at Harbor freight and I did it on the car both sides


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## banginggears01 (May 22, 2015)

All the ones that I rented from AutoZone advanced auto parts and O'Reilly's did not fit


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

banginggears01 said:


> The only one that I could get to fit was the one at Harbor freight and I did it on the car both sides
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I got my replacement tie rod today. I bought the Harbor Freight tool from local store and replaced the tie rod this afternoon. The tool worked great. It came loose easier than I expected.


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## Frijolero (Oct 29, 2013)

*R32 swap question:* Are all these R32 swapped Corrados I see only front wheel drive? Is that the case with most R32 swapped cars out there?

An R32 swapped Corrado was my dream build for a long time but I have been trying to dream up something more grandiose as R32 swaps are kind of played out…. Unless of course there are not any or many 4 wheel drive cars done.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

You can always do the awd swap, or you can try that and try 3.6

I wonder how many corrados parted out started as over the top builds.


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## Frijolero (Oct 29, 2013)

I'm sure that's the fate of a lot of builds. I'm not concerned, this is going to be a long term project. For the next few years likely I'll be only collecting and mocking up components.

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## banginggears01 (May 22, 2015)

matsavol said:


> I got my replacement tie rod today. I bought the Harbor Freight tool from local store and replaced the tie rod this afternoon. The tool worked great. It came loose easier than I expected.


Awsome I'm glad it worked !!! All I did was wipe the tool down and took it back and got my money back lol  


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

I replaced my charger in my G60 with a recently rebuilt one. The new one was ported and I have an RSR outlet kit. I started it up, and it barely runs. I struggled to just go around the block. Unless I really play with the clutch, it wants to stall out right away. Any ideas? Prior to this, I had just a stage one chip in the ECU. Could the new charger with the porting even with the 75mm pulley from my old one still be causing it to run too lean? Any advice is welcome.


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

banginggears01 said:


> Awsome I'm glad it worked !!! All I did was wipe the tool down and took it back and got my money back lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes, it worked. I thought about just "borrowing" it but the new Meyle tie rod had just a tad bigger nut (measured 34.0mm exactly) and I had to file the tool jaw slightly to make it fit. So it does not look unused any more. It was only $40 so not a biggie, and I may need it later on the passenger side or some other car...

In the past though when I purchased some tool at "high" price only to find it on sale few days later I did go buy the same item again and then returned the new unused item with old (high price) receipt...


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Frijolero said:


> *R32 swap question:* Are all these R32 swapped Corrados I see only front wheel drive? Is that the case with most R32 swapped cars out there?
> 
> An R32 swapped Corrado was my dream build for a long time but I have been trying to dream up something more grandiose as R32 swaps are kind of played out…. Unless of course there are not any or many 4 wheel drive cars done.


Most are fwd and if you use the o2a the swap is mechanically pretty easy. I put the 3.2 I had in my mk3 into a Corrado.


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## Frijolero (Oct 29, 2013)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Most are fwd and if you use the o2a the swap is mechanically pretty easy. I put the 3.2 I had in my mk3 into a Corrado.


That's good confirmation. Thanks for the replies guys. 
I guess i can go back up my regularly scheduled dreams of an AWD swapped Corrado.

Dan

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## banginggears01 (May 22, 2015)

Hey guys need some advise I think the supercharger just took a crap was going to spirited run and just lost all boost supercharger Dosent even sound the same .... isn't there a belt inside the supercharger ??? I just need to figure out what to do next with this car ....... about to just say **** and swap the vrt in it and have it on obd2 

It comes out of vacumm and produces like 1-2 pounds from my gauge I think it's toast.... hoses look good and intact no mods really to the motor very minimal 

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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

The belt is on the outside, under the black cap. You can see it without having to remove it, though. If said belt broke you'd likely have a huge hole in the casing where the displacer tried to escape. Have you checked the hoses for a leak?


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## banginggears01 (May 22, 2015)

Yeah I checked hoses for leaks I just lost all boost ... can even really hear it anymore my boost return is not on the car so it's usually very loud whistling noise .... I knew it was coming but didn't think it would be so soon ... always let the car come up to temp and let it cool off when I'm done.... it just Dosent sound the same anymore period ..... just installed a moonroof on this thing too.... 


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

banginggears01 said:


> Yeah I checked hoses for leaks I just lost all boost ... can even really hear it anymore my boost return is not on the car so it's usually very loud whistling noise .... I knew it was coming but didn't think it would be so soon ... always let the car come up to temp and let it cool off when I'm done.... it just Dosent sound the same anymore period ..... just installed a moonroof on this thing too....
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Belts under this cover:


If G-ladder hasn't grenaded itself, check the post pipe they've been known to get ripe and split.


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## banginggears01 (May 22, 2015)

Yeah I didnt bother checking because pretty much if that belt is broke it's done right 


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Yeah pretty much :facepalm:


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## banginggears01 (May 22, 2015)

I checked that smaller belt it looks to be intact very loose though.... the way I look at it if have to pull that charger or touch anything on this motor I'm just going to pull it it was eventually going to happen because I have a horde of vr6 parts and I was looking for a clean shell this thing is so clean I didn't want to but I want reliability and power and I'm just not going to get it out of this.... just sucks..... bummed out once again by the good ol corrado 


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

I need some input on a problem. I just swapped out my old charger than was leaking with a used one in good shape. The used one is ported. I have a stage one chip, K&N airfilter, and aftermarket exhaust. After putting in the charger, it was having trouble. It idled rough and stalled backing out of the driveway. I pulled the plugs, and they were black and wet. I figured they got that way with my cranking to circulate oil into the charger before starting. I cleaned them off and reinstalled. It started up fine, and drove fine on a test drive. The next time I started it, it started fine, but then dumped a bunch of white smoke backing out of the drive way. 

The smoke went away so I drove off. about three miles later, the rough idle returned, the smoke came back on WOT only, and I lost all power. I limped it home, and pulled the plugs to find them black fouled and wet again. I also found a bunch of engine oil on top of the tranny case to the right of the slave cylinder for the clutch. This is all on a G60. 

I did a compression test, and the numbers weren't too bad. I have the number from a little over 2 years ago to compare to, and the compression has decreased, but not greatly. It is what I would expect for an additional two years of wear and tear. In all the cylinders, compression was down about 15psi from 2.5 years ago. with 125psi across the board on 2,3,4 with 1 being 100psi. But 2.5 years ago, it was about 105psi so no real change. 

Please give me some insight if you have it, and feel free to clarify if you need any more information.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

Oh yeah, I have had no overheating issues at all. The engine has run the same heating and cooling wise for 3 years.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

ArchAngel4 said:


> I need some input on a problem. I just swapped out my old charger than was leaking with a used one in good shape. The used one is ported. I have a stage one chip, K&N airfilter, and aftermarket exhaust. After putting in the charger, it was having trouble. It idled rough and stalled backing out of the driveway. I pulled the plugs, and they were black and wet. I figured they got that way with my cranking to circulate oil into the charger before starting. I cleaned them off and reinstalled. It started up fine, and drove fine on a test drive. The next time I started it, it started fine, but then dumped a bunch of white smoke backing out of the drive way.
> 
> The smoke went away so I drove off. about three miles later, the rough idle returned, the smoke came back on WOT only, and I lost all power. I limped it home, and pulled the plugs to find them black fouled and wet again. I also found a bunch of engine oil on top of the tranny case to the right of the slave cylinder for the clutch. This is all on a G60.
> 
> ...


Try cleaning the ISV here is a link:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2005389-how-do-you-clean-isv


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## vw16v88 (Oct 4, 2002)

The left side of the driver's front seat has a slightly different "bumper" than the right side.

The one on left side is plastic, however the one on the right side is rubber?

Left side (broken plastic piece to the left of the seat guide bushing)










Right side (rubber bumper to the right of the seat guide bushing)










Part # for the plastic one is 357 881 195 A and the part # for the rubber one is 357 881 195. 

The plastic one is NLA (part # was not even recognized) from VW and my local VW parts guy is showing the rubber bumper as being the correct bumper for both sides. 

Can I assume that over the past 25 years VW has just made the plastic bumper obsolete and is now just using the rubber bumper in its place?

-Jeff


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

vw16v88 said:


> The left side of the driver's front seat has a slightly different "bumper" than the right side.
> 
> The one on left side is plastic, however the one on the right side is rubber?
> 
> ...


The plastic part is called a "guide piece" and they are still available, although the dealer may no longer carry them. The inner and outer are different so be sure to get the correct ones, and install them on the correct side inner or outer, 2 for each seat. The plastic guide piece sits in the metal track the seat scoots forward and back on. The rubber part I've never really figured out what it does other than perhaps prevent the seat from rocking fore/aft. But they are two distinct parts, my seats have both. When the guide piece starts to wear down, you'll notice the seat starts to rock back and forth from the free play in the seat track.

The outer guide piece in my version of Etka is 191 881 213 B and the inner is 191 881 213. Part number 357 881 195 is the rubber bumper stop as far as I can tell.


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## vw16v88 (Oct 4, 2002)

a_riot said:


> The rubber part I've never really figured out what it does other than perhaps prevent the seat from rocking fore/aft.





a_riot said:


> Part number 357 881 195 is the rubber bumper stop as far as I can tell.


Thanks for the reply! My question was not regarding the "guide piece" that is on each side.

I was inquiring about the rubber bumper stop (part # 357 881 195) and if the same rubber bumper stop goes on both sides as the one that is currently cracked on the bottom of my seat (on the left side) is part # 357 881 195 A and does not show up in Etka?

Thanks,

Jeff


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

vw16v88 said:


> Thanks for the reply! My question was not regarding the "guide piece" that is on each side.
> 
> I was inquiring about the rubber bumper stop (part # 357 881 195) and if the same rubber bumper stop goes on both sides as the one that is currently cracked on the bottom of my seat (on the left side) is part # 357 881 195 A and does not show up in Etka?
> 
> ...


Disregard the A modifier. Still available from the dealer -Jounce bumper -.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

ArchAngel4 said:


> I need some input on a problem. I just swapped out my old charger than was leaking with a used one in good shape. The used one is ported. I have a stage one chip, K&N airfilter, and aftermarket exhaust. After putting in the charger, it was having trouble. It idled rough and stalled backing out of the driveway. I pulled the plugs, and they were black and wet. I figured they got that way with my cranking to circulate oil into the charger before starting. I cleaned them off and reinstalled. It started up fine, and drove fine on a test drive. The next time I started it, it started fine, but then dumped a bunch of white smoke backing out of the drive way.
> 
> The smoke went away so I drove off. about three miles later, the rough idle returned, the smoke came back on WOT only, and I lost all power. I limped it home, and pulled the plugs to find them black fouled and wet again. I also found a bunch of engine oil on top of the tranny case to the right of the slave cylinder for the clutch. This is all on a G60.
> 
> ...


You should start a separate thread for this. It'll get lost in this monstrosity. 

Open-loop, closed-loop dependent? 
Does unplugging the o2 sensor change things?


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## vw16v88 (Oct 4, 2002)

mateok said:


> Disregard the A modifier. Still available from the dealer -Jounce bumper -.


Thanks! 

So both sides use the same rubber bumper (part # 357 881 195)?

-Jeff


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Same part, just turn it around and snap it shut from the other side.


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## vw16v88 (Oct 4, 2002)

mateok said:


> Same part, just turn it around and snap it shut from the other side.


:thumbup:

-Jeff


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

vw16v88 said:


> Thanks for the reply! My question was not regarding the "guide piece" that is on each side.


Your question was "Can I assume that over the past 25 years VW has just made the plastic bumper obsolete and is now just using the rubber bumper in its place?"

I answered no, its not obsolete and is needed on both sides, as is the rubber bumper. Thought I was clear, I'll try harder next time.


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## brice017 (Oct 14, 2011)

*Removed bumper/rad support for first time - wiring connector question*

93 rado

I took off bumper/rad support to replace radiator/maintenance 

My question is at the electrical connections in the headlight buckets.
I have fog lights working
I have headlight running light bulbs working
My side markers stay on when headlights are turned on (they do not blink with turn signal - I don't know if they are supposed to)
My turn signals (next to fog lights) blink (left/right and hazards work).

I HAVE ONE CONNECTOR (MALE/FEMALE LEFT) THAT WHEN I PLUG IT IN (DRIVER SIDE HEADLIGHT BUCKET) IT DOES NOTHING DIFFERENT. I metered it and it has switched on/off power when i have the hazards on. Any thoughts?


driver side has 3 connectors. One is the fog light. One is the headlight running light. The third connector is switched power (metered to find out)
passenger side has 3 connectors. One for fog and one for headlight running light. One is blue and is capped by vw. OK


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

brice017 said:


> 93 rado
> 
> I took off bumper/rad support to replace radiator/maintenance
> I HAVE ONE CONNECTOR (MALE/FEMALE LEFT) THAT WHEN I PLUG IT IN (DRIVER SIDE HEADLIGHT BUCKET) IT DOES NOTHING DIFFERENT. I metered it and it has switched on/off power when i have the hazards on. Any thoughts?


Post the wire colors. There's a whole bunch of plugs behind the driver's headlight: Turn signal, side marker, running light, horns, A/C.


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## The Skeptic (May 31, 2000)

*G60 Fuel Pumps: Options?*

My early 1990 G60 Corrado is running well. I have the 68mm pulley with the usual bolt ons to keep up.
The PO gave me their service records, and they replaced the in tank and under car fuel pumps 16 yrs ago. The car was a daily driver  until I got it four years ago

I worry that the pumps may fail or not operate at their best while i'm driving and with the added boost, I worry.

Experts: do you recommend I replace both pumps ASAP with stock units?
Is there an easy to install pump set that is better than the stock set up for insurance so i don't run too lean?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

The Corrado can smell your fear, so you just jinxed yourself. The two-pump setup is a holdover from the old CIS days. The in-tank is a low psi transfer that simply sucks it out. The inline pump is the one that does work. Funny how it's gone back to that setup with DI. 

I'd say get a CIS pump (63mm - 90psi) and squirrel it away, but some suppliers want a core now for fuel pumps. Fuel pumps usually give you a warning before they die (hard starting), so I wouldn't mess with it until it's needed. Additionally, you'll open up a new can of worms messing with those ancient fuel lines. 

Ride her 'til she bucks ya, Corrado cowboy.:beer:


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## The Skeptic (May 31, 2000)

Another question:

I know the early corrado g60 had two pumps, and the later g60 had a single pump.

are the in-tank pumps interchangeable between the two different styles or is there a hack to make this happen?

:biggrinsanta:

thanks


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

A two-pump tank has a tiny hole and the larger single one won't fit. In order to use a late single you need a late fuel tank, pump, flange assembly, and sender. 

Then you must decide VDO or Pierburg, which use different senders. VDO replaced Pierburg and all the Pierburg stuff dried up. Then the VDO stuff dried up and we were left with Chinese pumps with zip-tied senders - dark days. 

One can get all the parts now to construct either. I made two Pierburg units that I didn't need just because the unobtainable became obtainable.


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## The Skeptic (May 31, 2000)

Thank you my brotha.


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## JCab (Jul 20, 2014)

Anybody know what this plug goes to? Found it when I was going to remove the spoiler module, also, any parts places that have a spoiler module for a reasonable price?











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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

That plug goes unused. It T's off of the Cruise Module and "May" have been used for some diagnostics, but not sure I ever saw definite Confirmation.


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## DIEGOENUSA (Mar 17, 2003)

*Bleeding Front Corrado Brakes 92 SLC*

Hey guys, 

I was having issues with the front left caliper locking up (car was in storage for a while) so I bled the caliper using the 2 person method and some brake fluid came out. After bleeding the caliper I started the car to go for a drive and noticed that the brake pedal was soft . So I bled the caliper again but this time no fluid came out. I even used a power bleeder with the same results. The clutch system is fine and it works as it should. Any ideas on what the problem could be? I successfully bled the other 3 wheels without a problem. My ABS light has been ON since I purchased the car 3 weeks ago. Could the ABS pump be the issue? What about the Master cylinder for the brakes?
Also, I removed the brake line from the caliper that it's giving me trouble and no fluid is coming out of the hard break line at all. Even under 10/15 PSI when using the power bleeder. This is what makes me believe that either the hard brake line is clogged or the ABS pump or Master Cylinder are not sending fluid to front left caliper at all. 

I appreciate your help.

Diego


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

DIEGOENUSA said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I was having issues with the front left caliper locking up (car was in storage for a while) so I bled the caliper using the 2 person method and some brake fluid came out. After bleeding the caliper I started the car to go for a drive and noticed that the brake pedal was soft . So I bled the caliper again but this time no fluid came out. I even used a power bleeder with the same results. The clutch system is fine and it works as it should. Any ideas on what the problem could be? I successfully bled the other 3 wheels without a problem. My ABS light has been ON since I purchased the car 3 weeks ago. Could the ABS pump be the issue? What about the Master cylinder for the brakes?
> Also, I removed the brake line from the caliper that it's giving me trouble and no fluid is coming out of the hard break line at all. Even under 10/15 PSI when using the power bleeder. This is what makes me believe that either the hard brake line is clogged or the ABS pump or Master Cylinder are not sending fluid to front left caliper at all.
> ...


Since the pedal isn't rock hard the ABS isn't fully deactivated, but the light means it's partially shut down. All six valves must fail simultaneously in order to get a hard pedal. Usually a circuit issue causes that. 

That's irrelevant when bleeding the front brakes, though, as they aren't dependent on accumulator pressure and are bled using the method you used (pressure). 

The clutch has its own reservoir within the reservoir and its own master/slave cylinders, so that operation isn't relevant to braking. 

There's actually five chambers in total with the master cylinder and main solenoid being the same and smallest of the bunch. I've seen them get clogged, but that effects the other wheel, as well. 

The "master cylinder" is two parts; brake booster and tandem cylinder. The two lines in the back are for the front wheels. The single line under the reservoir handles the rear wheels. 

I would keep working my way backwards until I find some fluid. Crack the lines on the master cylinder under bleeder pressure and see what you get*.

*ignition OFF during this and pump the pedal 20 times to discharge the accumulator first.


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## b5in (Sep 10, 2003)

I need a shift linkage bolt, it's *#50* and washer *#27* in the diagram below does anyone have a part # so I can try and get one from the dealer or at least the proper name of the bolt.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

#27 - N 015 401 3 - washer
#50 - N 904 294 01 - square nut, M8


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## b5in (Sep 10, 2003)

mateok said:


> #27 - N 015 401 3 - washer
> #50 - N 904 294 01 - square nut, M8


You are the MAN thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

DIEGOENUSA said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I was having issues with the front left caliper locking up (car was in storage for a while) so I bled the caliper using the 2 person method and some brake fluid came out. After bleeding the caliper I started the car to go for a drive and noticed that the brake pedal was soft . So I bled the caliper again but this time no fluid came out. I even used a power bleeder with the same results. The clutch system is fine and it works as it should. Any ideas on what the problem could be? I successfully bled the other 3 wheels without a problem. My ABS light has been ON since I purchased the car 3 weeks ago. Could the ABS pump be the issue? What about the Master cylinder for the brakes?
> Also, I removed the brake line from the caliper that it's giving me trouble and no fluid is coming out of the hard break line at all. Even under 10/15 PSI when using the power bleeder. This is what makes me believe that either the hard brake line is clogged or the ABS pump or Master Cylinder are not sending fluid to front left caliper at all.
> ...


I had a b!tch of a time bleeding my calipers with ABS. I think the Bentley has detailed instructions but seem to remember you have to pump them like 20 times with the ignition off before even starting. 

I'll see if I can find the procedure and edit this post.

-Eric


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## banginggears01 (May 22, 2015)

b5in said:


> You are the MAN thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


This is on all mk3 vws with that shifter tower it's a square nut 


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> I had a b!tch of a time bleeding my calipers with ABS. I think the Bentley has detailed instructions but seem to remember you have to pump them like 20 times with the ignition off before even starting.
> 
> I'll see if I can find the procedure and edit this post.
> 
> -Eric


I can't find my Corrado Bentley manual right now. (It's not with my other manuals. No doubt it's in some place "safe".) Anybody else have theirs handy?


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## DIEGOENUSA (Mar 17, 2003)

Thank you guys for the response on brake bleeding. I had a local VW tech take a look at the car and he believes that the problem is in the master cylinder/ ABS Unit. I was lucky to find a used one near my house so we'll be installing it this weekend. Finger crossed! Thanks again for taking the time to share your experience and knowledge with us.

Diego


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## b5in (Sep 10, 2003)

DIEGOENUSA said:


> Thank you guys for the response on brake bleeding. I had a local VW tech take a look at the car and he believes that the problem is in the master cylinder/ ABS Unit. I was lucky to find a used one near my house so we'll be installing it this weekend. Finger crossed! Thanks again for taking the time to share your experience and knowledge with us.
> 
> Diego


Congrats on finding one local it took me forever to find one, I had to do this a couple weeks ago & it was a PITA to swap by myself but overall not too bad. I would spray lots of penetrating oil a day or so ahead of time on all the brake line fittings and the firewall bolts to the clutch slave cylinder


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

Drivers door lock problem... I broke my handle door latch pivot and have since repaired it. But now the door lock is acting like the door is open and won't lock manually or with the key. It goes down a little but then pops right back up like when the door is open. Not sure if there is something wrong with the latch itself or maybe the striker needs to be adjusted? Any pointers would be awesome. Thanks in advance!!!

David


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## krazy4dubz (Dec 14, 2002)

Actually I fixed it. The bigger pivot pin backed out causing pressure on the latch.


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## b5in (Sep 10, 2003)

Sorry for this really noob question but I am stupid when it comes to transmissions

Would a mk3 VR6 manual trans bolt right up and work in my '92 SLC?

My driver's side axle wasn't bolted down properly (thank you PO  ) so while doing about 40mph the inner axle cv separated from the trans and there was a loud BAM! and the car jumped like I ran a cement block over and now the trans is stuck in gear. I even tried putting it in neutral by hand under the hood and it won't come out. Think it EFF'd up the gearbox but I won't know until the weather clears :facepalm:


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## c3k (May 1, 2006)

Yes the trans will bolt right up, however the gearing will be slightly different. Corrado transmissions are CDM where as Passat GLX/MK3 GTI trans are CCM. You'll mainly feel the difference in first and second gears as the CCM is not as sporty as the CDM and you'll likely see an increase in fuel economy as well. 

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## b5in (Sep 10, 2003)

Thank you *c3k* for the info, mk3's are plentiful around here so that will make it much easier to find a trans :beer:


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

You can swap the gearsets out of your CDM into a CCM case and keep the Corrado ratios.
Also make sure you get a VR6 transmission as the cases are different for the 4-cylinder ones. CCM is the VR6 Mk3/Passat trans so that one is safe.


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## Mudkicker99 (May 11, 2008)

Hi experts,
For spoiler posts lubricant, would DuPont Teflon Non-Stick Dry Film be a good option?


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

I'd say yes. I've always used Teflon lube in an aerosol can and been careful to keep it off the rest of the car. This looks like the way to go since you've got more control on how to apply it. I'll be picking some of this stuff up. I use it on the edges of the windows too. It keep the regulators happy.


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## snoprano (May 26, 2015)

*no fire, coil delivers spark for a second when i turn the key on*

1992 VR6 no mods that I'm aware of

issue at hand: will not fire. I have replaced the ignition coil and the cam position sensor, distributor is next but the problem seems to occur before reaching the distributor as the coil only delivers a spark for a brief moment right when the key is switched to the on position. Seems to almost act like an immobilizer but my understanding is that 92 SLCs were not equipped with immobilizers. 

your ability to work on cars (be honest on this one): intermediate? car is at the shop and i have a great mechanic, he's done a lot of work on my corrado and always been more than fair (regularly not even charging me for parts when they can be pulled out of his own vw yard). In this particular situation I'm wondering if there's something about a 92 corrado that would elude him from finding the source of the problem. He only works on VWs, but I'm the only one around here that ever brings a corrado to the mix.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Corrados and Eurovans are on the top of the "strange issues" heap by far. 

Likely suspects are the ignition switch, ecu relay 109, fuel pump(s)/relay and the crank sensor. All can be tested easily.


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## b5in (Sep 10, 2003)

snoprano said:


> 1992 VR6 no mods that I'm aware of
> 
> issue at hand: will not fire. I have replaced the ignition coil and the cam position sensor, distributor is next but the problem seems to occur before reaching the distributor as the coil only delivers a spark for a brief moment right when the key is switched to the on position. Seems to almost act like an immobilizer but my understanding is that 92 SLCs were not equipped with immobilizers.


Does your fuel pump prime, if not my '92 had the same problem and turned out to be the ECU. Change the ignition switch 1st tho, it's super cheap and you can get it from Autozone


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## b5in (Sep 10, 2003)

Anybody know where I can get axle/cv bolts and the weird washers or whatever they are called that secure the axle to the output shaft?


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

b5in said:


> Anybody know where I can get axle/cv bolts and the weird washers or whatever they are called that secure the axle to the output shaft?


German auto parts? ECS Tuning? Dealer?

The backing plate is 1K0407357C (six req'd, 3 each side)
The bolt is N90991102 twelve req'd, six each side.


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## Mudkicker99 (May 11, 2008)

*Door Lock Pins*

I've always hated the door lock pins on my early interior and I've always really liked the ones on my friends' late interior. I think that I would need to make the hole in my door card bigger to accommodate the new base and pin, what I don't know is if the updated pins will screw into the threaded rod properly...anybody know?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

They will. The lock rods are the same.


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## Mudkicker99 (May 11, 2008)

mateok said:


> They will. The lock rods are the same.


That is good news...the problem is tracking down the pins and bases. I would actually need two passenger side bases because I don't need the red light.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Mudkicker99 said:


> That is good news...the problem is tracking down the pins and bases. I would actually need two passenger side bases because I don't need the red light.


The driver's side bezel is considered an electrical part because of the LED and commands a lot of money (or did). Right side is 535867109 01C. The Corrado designator (535) made it rare and expensive, but remove that and replace with 191 and you get the exact same part used on 19 different models. All that stuff has been dropped by VW, though. Junk yard/classifieds now.


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## drschmidt (Aug 25, 2009)

*Brake bleeding*



Noobercorn said:


> ok new guys, rather than posting a TON of different threads, please post your questions in here so we can all try to help you out.
> be sure to list the following:
> year of car, motor type, any modifications you know of.
> issue at hand
> ...


I own a 2007 GTI. I will make brake bleeding this weekend. I change brake disc, pads and calipers. I will appreciate the detailed instruction of brake bleeding using the scan tool. Also the order of bleeding?, the car should be on? and after I finish if the scan make another procedure? Thank you


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

MK5's are bled backwards; LF, RF, LR, RR. You'll need VAS 5054x, VCDS or equivalent for ABS output operation when done. The Corrado can't be bothered with all that nonsense.:beer:


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

*complete AC repair*

I'm planning to replace my AC compressor (noisy) and do complete flush on my 1992 SLC.

The system was originally R12 and converted to R134a. My replacement compressor is rebuilt Sanden SD7V16 compressor (R134a). It should be direct fit to replace the original SDV710 (R12)?

What I have read removing the compressor requires removing the front end and condenser/radiator. Other way might be to remove power steering pump and try taking down. I believe it is better to remove the radiator to have more room to work with? At any rate the bumper needs to be removed to replace the receiver/dryer.

Concerning the top bolt of the compressor the mounting bracket in my Corrado does have the slot that should allow removing the compressor without lifting the engine. Does that slot work for Corrado, or it still needs lifting the engine?

I have new Receiver/dryer, as wall as all new O-rings (Santech MT2520 kit). I grabbed a R134a expansion valve from a junkyard Jetta that I plan on changing as well.

I got 8oz bottle of PAG46 oil as well as 3 12oz cans of R134a. Per Bentley the R134a system should take 30oz of R134a and 3.9oz of PAG oil. Per my understanding the whole amount of PAG oil can be put into the compressor?

I plan on flushing evaporator, condenser and all the lines. I do have a question if the suction line between evaporator and compressor can be flushed because it has a muffler in it? Anyone flushed this line before? (If I find my system clean then I might skip it anyway.)

I have air compressor to blow the lines after flush. I do also have vacuum pump and AC manifold/gauges to recharge the system.

I think that is all, or have I forgotten something important?


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## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

Make sure to replacer desiccant dryer. If you use existing R12 dryer will disintegrate the material with r134a. The R12 hoses are not barrier like R134a. There will be seepage over couple years. Top off can be done after while. I recommend to replace orings for R134a and when installing them use mineral oil to lubricant them. Place the engine on a jack to suspend it and place a stand under it for safety. Remove lower radiator support cross bar. You may get more room to access the compressor without need to remove front clip. 

Since you are flushing the system measure how much oil comes out from compressor and pour same amount into the new one. Rest of oil can be added into condenser and evaporator as needed. The hoses can be safely flushed including the suction hose that goes around the airbox. 

Forgot to mention. The condensers between R12 and R134a are different. It will not affect cooling performance. Scientifically it's does because of gas expansion and vaporization characteristics that are affected by round vs flat tube confessors but overall you won't have issues with heat dissipation. Make sure not to overfill the R12 system with fresh R134a. Past rule was no subrect 10 or 20% from what the R12 system would normally hold. 

Past conversations 85 diesel, 90 TDI corrado, G60 and SLC Corrados. Ice cold AC on all. 

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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

Thanks vwscream about detailed information. :thumbup:

I'm suspecting also that the rubber lines are seeping the refrigerant since it has needed topping up the R134a every spring. I have UV-dye in the system currently but have not been able to locate the leak. Halogen sniffer also don't detect anything on the vents, so it isn't leaking from the evaporator either? I haven't been able to look between the radiator and condenser but that is not very likely place for the leak?

The new replacement receiver drier I bought is said to be compatible with both R12 and R134a.

For lubricating the O-rings, isn't it better to use the PAG oil? Mineral oil is not compatible with the R134a what I have read.

For the amount of R134a, the 30oz figure is from the Bentley section specifically stating R134a systems. For reference the R12-system takes 38.8oz of R12, so R134a amount is almost exactly ~20% less.

Also on Bentley it is said that new VW factory replacement compressors come with correct amount of PAG oil already installed, which is why I was suggesting that I could measure the whole amount of PAG oil there. (This is of course assuming that I have flushed all the other components and lines empty.)


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## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

I would need to check what measurements i have used. You should be good with 30oz. Number of compressor suppliers have specific instructions on how to prep the compressor. Some have you drain and refill with proper oil others I have seen empty. Check the sheet attached to compressor for info. Many new dryers are backwards compatible from what I have seen. Yours should be black with two hard lines going down from main body of dryer. I have photos of my C's. The pag oil is not advised for orings. Many techs use what's available and release the cars after assembly. Mineral oil is intended to lube the oring during assembly, sealing and less moisture attraction from atmosphere. You can get away with pag but I don't use it for orings. Before you disassemble the system check over for oily residue on the lines and fittings. Where it's wet that's where refrigerant is leaking. Condenser is under higher pressure and if there was a leak the seep would be rapid when running AC during summer. Very small hole will leak fast and can generate larger wet sports and I have seen pools under cars from oil leaking, collecting and draining down. The low side of system operates at lower pressure and stay low when engine is off (depending on ambient temps). I won't get into that stuff. You can check the drain hole for the heater box. On corrado vr it's easier from bottom of engine. With dye in system it's better to use black light. 


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## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

Sorry, I really need to work on paragraphs. 


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

matsavol said:


> I'm planning to replace my AC compressor (noisy) and do complete flush on my 1992 SLC.


You can remove the compressor without taking much apart, or you can do it the hard way by taking the front of the car apart.
The easy way is to remove the airbox, serp belt tensioner from above. Then you can unscrew the top compressor bolt - yes, the bracket is slotted.
Bottom compressor bolt through the right hand wheel well.
Support the engine. Remove front motor mount bolt in engine compartment. Remove 4 bolts holding front motor mount & bumper (don't need to remove the bumper). Remove front motor mount, remove lines from compressor & electrical connection, remove compressor from below.

The Bentley refrigerant capacities were changed numerous times by TSB's. Went down to 800 grams because of excessive pressures. Went up to 950 grams because of inadequate cooling. The TXV/RCV systems like we have are tricky to charge. What I do is to charge up to 750 or 800 grams, run A/C on full blower, doors open to load it up, then check the suction line at the compressor. If it's cold you are about fully charged. Both pipes to the evap should be about the same temperature as well. This works best on hot days. Make sure your radiator fan runs on all 3 speeds. I believe all VR Corrados came with a 2-pass serpentine design condenser, which is just good enough for R134a. I have converted to aftermarket parallel flow condensers and get vastly superior cooling - except the supplier dropped the aftermarket condensers that I was using..... Seal the condenser to the radiator to make sure the fan sucks air through both heat exchangers. Use EPDM foam weatherstrip tape from the home improvement store.

System leaks are always fun. UV dye is about useless in these cars, you can't see the most common leak points.
Your R12 hoses should be OK. The R12 mineral oil soaks into the hose liners and works as a barrier to the R134a leaking out. If the hose was new, never used, diffusion might be a problem - I have not had problems with diffusion on used R12 hoses.
I have flushed the lines, even the suction line with the muffler. Probably not the best idea, although I did it and had no problems. Use actual refrigerant flushing liquid (I use Johnsen's which works fabulously) then blow air until you can't smell the flushing liquid any more. Then wait an hour and blow some more.
Popular leak points are the compressor shaft seal, the bottom condenser fitting where it bends in some tight curves to reach the receiver/drier, the trinary switch (OEM ones leak like crazy, the aftermarket ones are much better), and the TXV. I have never had an evap leak.

The best stuff for O-rings is "Nylog", it's a refrigerant compatible O-ring lube.

Total system oil capacity is 3.9 Oz as you stated. If the system is dry & empty you can put it anywhere that you like. I usually put 1/2 in the compressor and 1/2 in the condenser (otherwise it spills all over). If the system is not empty you need to guess at how much oil is left and add the rest.

Charging from little cans is tough, it's easy to add a lot of air when changing cans - expensive, too!. I use 30 pound jugs. What I do to evac the system is to not use the R134a couplers, even though I have a really nice Mastercool manifold and screw-down charging fittings, the charging fittings aren't really vacuum tight. I put the caps on the charging fittings and remove the trinary switch (there is a schrader valve underneath). Then I hook up the vacuum pump & micron gauge there, using a charging hose with a standard SAE 1/4" fitting (R12 hose). That way I can pull 100 micron vacuum pretty easily on a tight system. When I am satisfied with the vacuum I add a little refrigerant, without changing hoses, to put some pressure in the system. This keeps the regular charging ports from leaking vacuum while you are hooking up the lines.


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

Thanks theprf about all the tips and information. :thumbup:

EDIT: Started working on it a little bit... I knew the system was weak due to low refrigerant charge, so I thought recovering the remaining refrigerant back to a half empty R134a can. I put the can on a icy water bucket to get the refrigerant flow back there. After ~10 minutes the system pressure had decreased to about 35psi (+5C) and didn't move down any more. By feeling the weight increase of the can I got about ~3...4oz R134a recovered.

I got also air box and intake elbow removed to get access to hoses and expansion valve. Continuing tomorrow...

2/28/2017 update:
I completed the job couple days back but waited couple days to test it before calling it a success. AC works great now and barely any compressor noise can be heard...

Everything went surprisingly smoothly. I had no problems on removing any line fittings or compressor itself. Flushing the lines, condenser and evaporator worked fine. The remaining oil in the system was quite dark green with greyish tint... so the flush was quite needed.

I drained all the oil in replacement compressor and poured in 3.9oz (total system capacity) of fresh PAG 46. Once the compressor was in place I took out the plugs on the ports and no oil leaked out when putting the lines back. I replaced the receiver/dryer and hooked up all the remaining lines. (I used mineral oil from pharmacy for the O-rings.) I pulled vacuum and it held great for the ~1 hour. I decided to put everything back together (bumper, motor mount, belts, battery,...) that took a little while. Finally I let the vacuum pump run another 15 minutes until it made no difference to the pump noise if opening or closing the manifold valves. That should indicate that it is about as good vacuum as this pump is capable of pulling.

I force-fed the first can into the system by simply placing it in warm water bucket. I started the car and briefly tested AC compressor will turn without unusual noises... Everything was good and turned it off. and continued to force-feed another can and finally about half of last can to make it ~30oz total.


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## rybroG60 (Sep 28, 2011)

*changing my serpentine belt*

Hey everyone, 

I'm trying to change my serpentine belt on my 1990 Corrado G60 and I'm having trouble trying to loosen the smaller belt, V-belt is what it might be called. As most of you probably know you have to get this off in order to put the serpentine belt on. 

Any help would be much appreciated!

Thanks!


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## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

The v belt requires the steering pump to be loosened. There are couple bolts hidden by the thermostat bracket and by pulley itself. Once the bolts are lose you can twist the pump and pull the belt v


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## rybroG60 (Sep 28, 2011)

Thanks!


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

Hello hello. Question for all you experts...

The ABS system in my rado (93 SLC) has been redone, BUT the mechanic is saying that the ECU needs to be reprogrammed because the back brakes aren't "ABS-ing." Everything was replaced, which is why he suspects something in the computer, but he is not entirely sure. He doesn't have the software to check (1993 problems), but I was hoping to get some expert advice and whether or not its worth it to take it to the dealership to have them do it.


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## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

Is the ABS light on when you start the car? There is a process to reset the codes and module which includes road testing the car for proper setting. How is the mechanic determining that rear is not working? The rear axle is single channel. Often the proportioning valve sticks shut and brakes will not function. I am not sure off all the parts that have been replaced. 


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

*G-Lader Apex Springs*

Took apart the G-Lader today cleaned it up and inspected two halves and the displacer for damage or hair line cracks (all good) . There's Apex springs (#13 total of 4) on the two halves but not springs behind the displacer Apex, is that correct?



I'm also not sure how to remove shaft #25, does it need to pressed out? Shaft #25 is fitting into sleeve #27 correct?


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## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

One side has the springs. Far as the shaft I recall it's pressed into the bearing. 


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Thanks for the reply!


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

northendroid;103701458[/QUOTE said:


> That shaft needs to be measured against the case before removal because there's no stop for the bearing. It'll affect how much of the tab goes into the displacer's needle bearing.
> 
> Pay close attention to how the shaft and bearings come out. I was left scratching me head for a minute back in the day with a pile of bearings and shafts on the floor. In order to reinstall you'll need to press a bearing onto the shaft before inserting it into the case. Then do the other side.


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## The Dubbernaut (Feb 1, 2010)

My corrado has been "stored" under a car cover for a few years on our farm. Now that Im back from the Marines and can spend some time giving it TLC, I have run into a few problems. Im trying to get it DD'ing again so I can put in deep work on my 80 rabbit pickup. The issues Im having are;

1. When the car starts, it seems to idle on 1 cylinder, possibly 2. It will struggle to run, firing like the plug wires are removed for 3 of the cylinders. If I tap the gas to get it to ignite those other pistons, it has no effect or dies. Ill see what video I can upload tonight showing the weird idle. 
~ I have checked points, rotor, plugs, and wires. They all test good with my multimeter and against any tests the Bently gives me. 

2. Not sure if this can be related to the weird idle problem, but before it was stored, my girlfriend drove the car for about a year and complained that the battery started dying easier and easier if she didnt drive the car every day. She would get stranded with a dead battery and have to have a jump. She had it tested at Autozone and the alternator was good. Bought 2 new batteries for it until she put a kill switch on the power cable. She would have to turn the power off every day before class and when she would get home at night. 
~ I have been slowly going through the Bently trying to check electrical connections but cant seem to find anything draining power in the cabin. The sub/amp circuit I installed in 2004 is unplugged with no bad grounds or loose power to it. I removed the annoying Dane Cook alarm system the PO installed with no loose ends, in 2001. 

Im at whits end trying to test or find the culprit for the bad idle. Has anyone dealt with this before?


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

The Dubbernaut said:


> My corrado has been "stored" under a car cover for a few years on our farm. Now that Im back from the Marines and can spend some time giving it TLC, I have run into a few problems. Im trying to get it DD'ing again so I can put in deep work on my 80 rabbit pickup. The issues Im having are;
> 
> 1. When the car starts, it seems to idle on 1 cylinder, possibly 2. It will struggle to run, firing like the plug wires are removed for 3 of the cylinders. If I tap the gas to get it to ignite those other pistons, it has no effect or dies. Ill see what video I can upload tonight showing the weird idle.
> ~ I have checked points, rotor, plugs, and wires. They all test good with my multimeter and against any tests the Bently gives me.
> ...


Is it a VR or a G60?

Has it been sitting a LONG time, like years?
Probably needs the fuel removed, lines flushed out, injectors cleaned, filter replaced, maybe pump screen cleaned. The big brown VR injectors use a steel pintle valve which can rust over time (that's what the fuel injector service I used says).


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Look for traces of critters moving in under the hood. It may lead you to a harness of hors d'oeuvres.


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## The Dubbernaut (Feb 1, 2010)

theprf said:


> Is it a VR or a G60?
> 
> Has it been sitting a LONG time, like years?
> Probably needs the fuel removed, lines flushed out, injectors cleaned, filter replaced, maybe pump screen cleaned. The big brown VR injectors use a steel pintle valve which can rust over time (that's what the fuel injector service I used says).


Sorry, forgot to mention. Its a G60. It was started every month or so by my dad just to let it cycle come gas. Some months being further apart than others... I was out of the states for 6 years. I tried getting the L brackets off the intake so I could get to the fuel injectors, but I had 2 of the allen head bolt strip and now Im trying to get a decent extractor to back them out. Ill have to just pull the lines and put some air to them. See if there is blockage where I cant reach. 

I did have some mice nests in random places but going over the engine real thorough, I didnt see anything real nasty. Its been cleaned and vacuumed where there were traces. Ive built up a good amount of "tune up" items when they went on sale. Where are the in-tank pumps being sourced now days? I remember for a while we didnt have a good source of replacements.


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

*FV-QR*

I'm looking for the factory headlight harness connector. The one that you would connect Spoonfed's harness into. My plug was cut off years ago and I want to go back and clean some of the wiring hacks up. I think it's a 4 pin connector. I am going to assume female end but not sure.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

The Dubbernaut said:


> Sorry, forgot to mention. Its a G60. It was started every month or so by my dad just to let it cycle come gas. Some months being further apart than others... I was out of the states for 6 years. I tried getting the L brackets off the intake so I could get to the fuel injectors, but I had 2 of the allen head bolt strip and now Im trying to get a decent extractor to back them out.


There's still a few Beck-Arnley branded Pierburg pumps listed on eBay. 

I feel your pain on those injector harness Allen bolts. I've had to remove intake manifolds before to extract stubborn ones. Working by a mirror in reverse gets old quick. Incidentally, if you're just trying to remove the wires, pop open the black housing and simply remove them. 

I'll admit I'm guilty of replacing a few Digi fuel injection harnesses that way. The wires are the business end and the black case just holds them.


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## The Dubbernaut (Feb 1, 2010)

mateok said:


> There's still a few Beck-Arnley branded Pierburg pumps listed on eBay.
> 
> I feel your pain on those injector harness Allen bolts. I've had to remove intake manifolds before to extract stubborn ones. Working by a mirror in reverse gets old quick. Incidentally, if you're just trying to remove the wires, pop open the black housing and simply remove them.
> 
> I'll admit I'm guilty of replacing a few Digi fuel injection harnesses that way. The wires are the business end and the black case just holds them.


Got some easy out bits. Hoping for the best tonight! I remember trying to remove the injectors before but I felt like I was really putting a lot of leverage on them to pry them out but nothing budged. Thats why I was trying to get the intake off to get back there with a little more room to grip and maneuver. I have a BBM fuel rail with injectors I could replace the whole damn thing with if I could get these damn stripped allens out! I bought a new fuel filter too so that will be replaced. Ill hit it with some air after I have the hardware removed from the hoses. Anything else I could check while I have lines removed and access to the fuel pump or injectors? 

Is there a suggested fuel pump rebuild/cleaning thread?


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## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

Flow test the fuel pump and regulator while you have access. Check if adequate fuel is collected per manual graph. Check injector resistance. All 4 injectors are on same 2 wires and having one can lead to issues on all cylinders. 


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## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

Here is a pump I picked up from Amazon as a spare for one of my Corrados. 


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## Mudkicker99 (May 11, 2008)

BBS 17 X 7.5 from a Volvo, et43 will they fit with 15mm adapter? I'm just not sure about the center bore, I believe that Volvos have a bigger centre.
Thanks


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## harley_steel (Aug 27, 2013)

Mudkicker99 said:


> BBS 17 X 7.5 from a Volvo, et43 will they fit with 15mm adapter? I'm just not sure about the center bore, I believe that Volvos have a bigger centre.
> Thanks


They will fit. With running adapters, you can probably get some made that match the center bore of the wheels too.


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## Mudkicker99 (May 11, 2008)

harley_steel said:


> They will fit. With running adapters, you can probably get some made that match the center bore of the wheels too.


43-15=28 offset...might poke out a bit too much I think


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## harley_steel (Aug 27, 2013)

Mudkicker99 said:


> 43-15=28 offset...might poke out a bit too much I think


You're going to sit 6mm further in than a 17x8 et30 which a lot of people run and I will be too. If you want to run anything wider than a 205/40 tire wise then it will probably poke too much. 











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## c3k (May 1, 2006)

*OBD2 Plug DIY*

I recall a DIY on one of the forums on how to install an OBD2 trapezoid style plug into a Corrado for ease of diagnosing CELs. I think it may have been on the CCC site as I can no longer find it. Does anyone remember off the top of there head what needs to be done?


My car is a '92 SLC converted to OBD2 using a B4 Passat engine harness as well as a B4 Passat cluster/cluster wiring harness. I'm not sure if that info is needed but I figured it couldn't hurt to add it. 


:thumbup:


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## modeliuks (Sep 14, 2013)

Does anyone know how to remove these 2 screw like things that are at the top that hold the steering column in place?


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Drill


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Dremel a slot in them and then a screwdriver.


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## VLub13 (Nov 28, 2002)

*ABS assembly replaced, still having minor issues*

93 SLC 
I can spin wrenches

Vehicle sat in storage for over a year and when I picked up had no brake assist, ABS/Brake lights illuminated, ABS light has been on for quite some time due to failed WSS and brake light would come on until you smack the parking brake handle. Had towed back to my house and found ABS pump was not coming on, even running 12v directly to it, also checked the fuse behind cluster only to find that it had welded itself back together several times over the pump failure and melted through the fuse panel, quite lovely actually. Wired a new inline 30A, found entire ABS assembly from a junkyard, replaced assembly and pressure bled system like any other car. I also replaced both WSS as one was faulty and they were cheap, also replaced all soft lines as mine we in bad shape. I now have brake assist again, however the ABS/Brake lights are still illuminated. I recently purchased a vag-com, don't know too much about it, but I scanned ABS and found no new codes, aside from faulty G47, which I cleared due to replacing. 

My entire process with this car has been to restore it to as close to stock as possible, so I am not interested in doing a non-abs conversion, I just want to enjoy driving it with no fault illuminations. And no, I will not just remove the bulbs. If there is an issue I want to fix it. I have since read that in order to bleed rears you need KOEO, which I did not do, just a standard pressure bleed and I got plenty of fluid to come through, doubt that's the issue, but worth mentioning.


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

VLub13 said:


> 93 SLC
> My entire process with this car has been to restore it to as close to stock as possible, so I am not interested in doing a non-abs conversion, I just want to enjoy driving it with no fault illuminations. And no, I will not just remove the bulbs. If there is an issue I want to fix it. I have since read that in order to bleed rears you need KOEO, which I did not do, just a standard pressure bleed and I got plenty of fluid to come through, doubt that's the issue, but worth mentioning.


The ABS system is actually quite robust if looked after. When you turn the key to ON you should hear the pump run but for no longer than a minute as it pressurizes. If it runs on and on, it will fail if you don't fix that. Either the accumulator isn't keeping pressure so the pump runs forever, or more likely, the pressure switch has failed and so no signal to the pump to shut off is occurring. This happened to me when the coolant reservoir overflowed and lots of hot coolant landed on the switch and got down through the threads into the bore mucking it all up. So if you pull the switch out, and clean the switch and the bore, perhaps with Brake Kleen, that may be all that's needed. If you need a new switch, then finding one can be tough, although there are other cars that used the Teves 02 system, like Jags and Range Rovers, so there may be a switch from another car that will work.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

VLub13 said:


> 93 SLC  the ABS/Brake lights are still illuminated.


Both lights are on, ABS & Brake? The brake light indicates handbrake on, low fluid level, and inadequate accumulator pressure. The latter will deactivate the ABS because obviously it needs pressure to work.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

VLub13 said:


> 93 SLC
> I can spin wrenches
> 
> Vehicle sat in storage for over a year and when I picked up had no brake assist, ABS/Brake lights illuminated, ABS light has been on for quite some time due to


Congrats on trying to keep the TEVES 02 ABS, I happen to like it as well, even though it's totally outdated.

What a-riot said about the ABS pressure switch - also, if the hydraulic pump shuts off that's a good sign that the ABS pressure switch is working properly.

The ABS light can be lit up by a faulty ABS relay, which will kill the ABS part of the system (including communication with VAGCOM). There's a diode in the relay that pulls the K-wire for the ABS ECU when the low fluid level sensor is tripped (or some other things happen). If that diode burns out (1) abs light stays on all the time; (2) abs function is lost; (3) brake boost works OK; (4) can't vagcom to the ABS ECU. Now, there are 2 ABS relays and I don't remember which one has the diode - one relay is for the ABS ECU and the other is for the hydraulic pump. Both conveniently placed directly behind the instrument cluster, above the steering wheel.

Also, I have always bled the rears the way Bentley says to do it: Key on, pressure up in the ABS system, brake pedal pushed, rear wheels on the ground, open the bleed screw and let the ABS pump push fluid out. In my experience trying to do it any other way just won't work, even with a pressure bleeder.

Can you elaborate on this KOEO? I've never heard of it.


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## VLub13 (Nov 28, 2002)

Thanks for all of the input! KOEO(Key On Engine Off) is the same as what VW calls 15 power. I have had a few :beer::beer::beer:, but from what I can gather at this point I want to listen for the pump to turn off after about a minute at idle to verify accumulator is holding pressure, this would eliminate pump, pressure switch and accumulator issues. The red brake light is most likely a parking brake issue at this point, because if I smack parking brake handle it will turn off briefly, sometimes. I would assume that there is a sensor or a switch that is associated with the parking brake that needs adjusted or replaced? I did read somewhere that the module has to match the pump, as in from same vehicle, no idea how true this is as that would have made it nearly impossible back then to replace one or the other without coding the module to the pump. Is there any truth to this? Or can this old module be coded to the new pump assembly? I am going to re-bleed the rears the way that it was suggested, but I have a hard time wrapping my head around bleeding rears on the ground with the wheels on, very not what I am used to. Could the rears not being bled properly lead to an ABS malfunction and the ABS light being illuminated? I will go ahead and replace both of the ABS relays if they can be found new OEM to eliminate those possibilities too. Outside of what has been mentioned I can see no other reason for an ABS light, especially when I see no codes with vcds. Wait, does the vehicle need to be driven a certain speed or and ABS stop be made for the module to say ok, we are working? I replaced what I have mentioned but only drove it in the parking lot at very low speeds at this point.

On a completely side note, the brake lights stay on all of the time at this point. I am assuming it is because when I had to splice in the melted ABS 30A inline fuse I smacked the brake light switch plunger a few times and perhaps it needs replaced. Could a malfunctioning brake light switch cause ABS light to stay on?


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

VLub13 said:


> Thanks for all of the input! KOEO(Key On Engine Off) is the same as what VW calls 15 power.


Yes to all that. 
There are 2 modules for the Corrado ABS, with EDL and without EDL, and they are not interchangeable. "Coding" modules was not even invented back then. The ABS unit WITH EDL has an extra 5-pin (I think, may be 7-pin) connector under the fluid reservoir. I believe all VR's had EDL and no G60's did. The module (behind the hood release lever) has different connectors, too, so it's hard to mix up. As long as your module and ABS unit and wiring match you are good to go.

The e-brake being on all the time will cancel the ABS. Also the brake light switch being on will mess stuff up. Fix those first. Also check that the fluid level sensor built into the brake fluid cap is working, if it senses low fluid it will stop the pump from running and light the BRAKE and ABS lights.

Yes bleeding the rears that way is odd. Trust me you need to do it that way. 

You don't need to start the engine to check the pump. Just turn the key on and listen. The pump SHOULD run for a while then shut off... if it runs constantly it will burn out. Don't confuse the sound of the aux coolant pump with the ABS pump, you might even unplug the aux coolant pump first.
If the ABS pump never shuts off you need to find out why: never builds pressure, or pressure switch is no good, or relay is stuck, or some other wiring fault. Even if the accumulator is completely toast the pump SHOULD shut off eventually - at least until you press the brake pedal.

Once you've fixed the ebrake warning light, the brake light switch, the fluid reservoir float switch, and the ABS pump shutting off it might even start working properly!


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

theprf said:


> Yes to all that.
> There are 2 modules for the Corrado ABS, with EDL and without EDL, and they are not interchangeable. "Coding" modules was not even invented back then. The ABS unit WITH EDL has an extra 5-pin (I think, may be 7-pin) connector under the fluid reservoir. I believe all VR's had EDL and no G60's did. The module (behind the hood release lever) has different connectors, too, so it's hard to mix up. As long as your module and ABS unit and wiring match you are good to go.
> 
> The e-brake being on all the time will cancel the ABS. Also the brake light switch being on will mess stuff up. Fix those first. Also check that the fluid level sensor built into the brake fluid cap is working, if it senses low fluid it will stop the pump from running and light the BRAKE and ABS lights.
> ...


I went through all this tshooting, but it was my pressure switch that was causing the ABS/Ebrake light to stay on with no codes thrown, but with brake boost. Do you have brake boost or the hard pedal? If you have brake boost that rules out the accumulator and pump. 

The Ebrake switch is just a simple switch under the ebrake handle, so its unlikely to fail on its own and has no effect on the ABS system other than turning on the ebrake LED when engaged. When I was going through this, sometimes the brake light would go off, then come on again for a while, then off so don't put too much stock into what the dummy lights do. When everything works they'll both go off and stay off. I can't really see how bleeding the brakes could affect the ABS unless you do something stupid, like empty the brake reservoir, damage ABS sensors/rings, etc. Sensors throw codes when they don't work so you'll see them in the VAGCOM program. 

The relays are probably ok, as they don't fail very often, just like the ABS module and the brake fluid reservoir cap. Its an ATE module, ATE cap (if OE) so they are well made but check them if you are curious, they are easy to test. The hardest part of testing the ABS electronics was getting the bloody connector off the ATE module  Its not obvious how to get off. I would leave that all alone for now but going through the Bentley ABS tests is a useful endeavor if you don't mind twisting your back out of alignment. 

You can hear one relay click when first starting the car as the ABS system pressurizes. Do you hear it? Its loud enough to hear over the engine, but most Corrado owners aren't aware of it until they stop hearing it, and somethings broken.



VLub13 said:


> Could a malfunctioning brake light switch cause ABS light to stay on?


A broken brake light switch will throw a code I believe so it should show up in a scan. 

00599 - Plausibility of Pressure/Brake Light Switch: Mechanical Malfunction 

Have you scanned the ECM? I replaced the Brake Light Switch just to make sure but it was fine. I don't think it would affect the ABS. Notice that this code also mentions the pressure switch though.

I've always bled the rears the old fashioned way, with someone assisting to press the brake pedal. Car is either on the ground or on jack stands holding up the rear beam so it doesn't hang, causing the brake bias device to turn off brake fluid to the rear calipers. Maybe next time I'll try the ABS pump method as theprf suggests.


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## FreshNes (Nov 3, 2016)

Noobercorn said:


> aluminum crack pipe is def a good idea.


with all the coolant pipes I've replaced.. i replaced mine with that ****ty old plastic one.... again:banghead: thank god its not leaking yet.

eace:


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## denver_fox (Oct 15, 2011)

Can someone tell me what I'm doing wrong here?

I'm attempting to replace the ignition switch in my VR. I didnt want to remove the column so I figured I'd try to remove the lock housing with the switch instead. Do you really have to drill the housing to remove it? In this video the guy takes it off just by putting the key in, after getting the collar off:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wkNCLVWtcw

I've got the collar off. Do I need to remove the washer, spring and cup now? Both bolts are off the housing but it wont come off. No amount of wiggling with the key in or out makes a difference. Its loose, but only comes forward a little bit before hitting resistance.

If it is easier to remove the column, can someone answer me this: Is there just the one bolt and nut holding the entire column in place? The shear bolts in the column tube look like a nightmare; do those need removed?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

denver_fox said:


> If it is easier to remove the column, can someone answer me this: Is there just the one bolt and nut holding the entire column in place? The shear bolts in the column tube look like a nightmare; do those need removed?


Are you just installing a new ignition switch? If so, there's no need to pull the entire ignition assembly off the column. 

I'll admit I did my first few like the guy in the video until I realized there's a more efficient way. Heat up and bend a screwdriver. Use a mirror to see what you're doing and simply remove the screw. 

I made A LOT of money off VW's shoddy ignition switches over the years with this little guy:thumbup:


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## denver_fox (Oct 15, 2011)

Thanks for the reply Mateok. I didnt have wheels last night to go get a screwdriver and I broke my jewelers #0 trying to bend it., and I just wanted to finish it, lol. 

Still having electrical issues. I fixed the horn, but the fogs are still wonky. I'll PM you my findings here soon.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

a_riot said:


> I went through all this tshooting, but it was my pressure switch that was causing the ABS/Ebrake light to stay on with no codes thrown, but with brake boost. Do you have brake boost or the hard pedal? If you have brake boost that rules out the accumulator and pump.


Yes, the actual ABS parts are quite durable. I suspect that he's got several electrical issues going on. Need to get those fixed.

The BRAKE and ABS lights can be lit by a lot of things besides the ABS ECU, so there is not always a code stored. You found one, the pressure switch, and there are a bunch more. The wiring for the ABS is rather more complex than newer ABS systems. There are sensors & relays that act in addition to the ABS ECU without the knowledge (so to speak) of the ABS ECU.


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

theprf said:


> Yes, the actual ABS parts are quite durable. I suspect that he's got several electrical issues going on. Need to get those fixed.
> 
> The BRAKE and ABS lights can be lit by a lot of things besides the ABS ECU, so there is not always a code stored. You found one, the pressure switch, and there are a bunch more. The wiring for the ABS is rather more complex than newer ABS systems. There are sensors & relays that act in addition to the ABS ECU without the knowledge (so to speak) of the ABS ECU.


My case was odd since hot coolant had found its way into the switch/bore. I got both ABS/Ebrake lights, no codes, but normal brake boost, which confused me. I figured with both lights on I'd get no boost but I did! At other times I got an ABS light, no Ebrake light, and a hard pedal and the pressure/brake light code that would only appear once. So things had gotten pretty messed up. I think what was happening is the pump wasn't ever turning off, so if you used the brakes a lot, would overheat, leaving me with a hard pedal, and an ABS light, but no Ebrake light. The ABS light would always stay on but the Ebrake would come and go, eventually staying on full time, yet no loss in boost. 

As far as I know, the Ebrake light comes on with the ebrake on, low brake fluid, and/or low pressure in the accumulator. The ABS light comes any with any fault in the system preventing proper ABS operation. Both lights on likely points to the accumulator, pressure switch or pump (or any electrics between them) if no codes appear. The pump is easy to test as is its relay, and most ABS faults will throw a code thankfully. Its when the accumulator or switch are involved that things get trickier, especially if intermittent.


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

vwscream said:


> Is the ABS light on when you start the car? There is a process to reset the codes and module which includes road testing the car for proper setting. How is the mechanic determining that rear is not working? The rear axle is single channel. Often the proportioning valve sticks shut and brakes will not function. I am not sure off all the parts that have been replaced.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sorry for the delay... I am overseas and my friend is my liaison with the mechanic. Here is the update:

The mechanic SAID he replaced the ABS module and pump, replaced the rear calipers, used a pressure bleeder... Here is the receipt:










Now, the handbrake doesn't work, and there is still no pressure to the fronts.... $800... so, basically the car went in and came out with an additional problem.. mechanic claims that he can't find someone with an OBD1 connection with the right software to reprogram the computer, or something along those lines, but I am not convinced that is actually what is going on. 

Any thoughts on this, with regards to solving my pressure issue, but also in terms of ****e mechanics and paying for new parts and servicing without the car actually getting fixed? Anyone in the South Florida area, or know someone reputable, who can help?


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Now is the time to hope you paid with a credit card. The non operational hand brake is prolly an issue relating only to poor adjustment under the center console.

The issue of no pressure to the front is likely he did not use the abs pump to bleed out the front half. Does he have your Bentley? The scariest part is the cop out of not having a compatible PC to do the job. IF you did pay w/ a credit card negotiate the fair price. Your cc company will stand behind you paying for only what's due, not what he tried to do.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

petethepug said:


> Now is the time to hope you paid with a credit card. The non operational hand brake is prolly an issue relating only to poor adjustment under the center console.
> 
> The issue of no pressure to the front is likely he did not use the abs pump to bleed out the front half. Does he have your Bentley? The scariest part is the cop out of not having a compatible PC to do the job. IF you did pay w/ a credit card negotiate the fair price. Your cc company will stand behind you paying for only what's due, not what he tried to do.
> 
> ...


Paid with debit. He didn't have a Bentley unless he pulled one down from the web. Based on the receipt, it looks like I mostly paid for what was done, without much overhead. My primary focus at this point needs to be getting the brakes sorted so I can sell. Does anyone know a reputable mechanic in South Florida who can finish the job?


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Hope you get this solved soon. It's the best season for coastal driving.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

jewnersey said:


> Paid with debit. He didn't have a Bentley unless he pulled one down from the web. Based on the receipt, it looks like I mostly paid for what was done, without much overhead. My primary focus at this point needs to be getting the brakes sorted so I can sell. Does anyone know a reputable mechanic in South Florida who can finish the job?


Disregarding the description of ABS module, etc, it appears that they charged you for the work they did (mainly replacing rear calipers, ABS sensor, etc). If your ebrake is not working, then as mentioned, they either failed to hookup the rear cables onto the rear calipers or possibly need adj under the console where the cables connect to the handle. I am with the vote, that (for starters) they did not bleed the system properly (among other things). Whenever, I bleed the rears, I usually always take the one bolt off of the rear proportioning valve arm (marking it's position first), and collapse it. This simulates a load on the rear beam and issues more pressure (Opens the valve) to the rear channel. I have had finicky times trying to bleed the rear, so I do this on general principle.

It is going to be hard to find a mechanic who knows that relic TevesII system. You would be better off with a Corrado Enthusiast who has the knowledge, but that won't be easy either. I know the ABS systems fairly well, have Vag-Com with the 2x connector for the Corrado, but unfortunately, I am NE of Orlando. Consequently, I have an entire working TevesII system (with EDL) from a 93 Corrado that I transplanted into my 90 years back. I am moving to non-ABS at some point, just to simplify my life, but it has been working great for many years and I could be persuaded to sell the complete setup as a whole. I haven't read all of your posts regarding your ABS issues yet, so this may be overkill for a simple problem.


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## denver_fox (Oct 15, 2011)

Got the rado running again last weekend. Man that ignition switch was a pain.

Now I am trying to sort out my fan problem. Both fans run on high speed constantly when either the car is in aux or running.

I have already replaced the three coolant sensors, and that did help with my coolant gauge not working.

I just replaced the FCM, and that did not help at all. I have a different style FCM I got from the junkyard(from a later mk3), and when I plug it in, the fans seem to work correctly, but it doesnt have a fuse slot for the secondary water pump.

What could be causing this? I'd like to get this fixed asap as I dont want my fan to burn up. I'm leaning towards the auxilary fan switch that sits in the radiator now, although I've had that go out on my fox before and the fan ran constantly even when the car was off.

edit: Just unplugged the aux switch on the radiator and started her up. Fans weren't on at first but after two- three minutes of idling the fans came back on full speed. Does this mean the switch is bad?

another edit: With fan switch plugged back in, unplugged the FCM and let it idle for a while. Temp gauge got up to about 170-180 and low speed kicked on. Is this brand new FCM bad? Its the same part # as the original.


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

denver_fox said:


> Got the rado running again last weekend. Man that ignition switch was a pain.
> 
> Now I am trying to sort out my fan problem. Both fans run on high speed constantly when either the car is in aux or running.
> 
> ...


In my experience, its never the FCM, although sometimes it can be the two fuses under the plastic lid so check those. One is a 5A and the other is 20A I think. The FCM is just a fused relay anyway, and relays aren't particularly prone to issues. I would start with the fan itself and work backwards. Get some leads and connect them to the battery and test the fan pins with them to make sure you have all three speeds coming on when you supply power to the correct pins. If that's good, then test to make sure the thermoswitch in the radiator is triggering the fan on at the approx. correct temp. I've had some bad aftermarket thermoswitches that came on too soon or weren't reliable. You have new coolant sensors so those should be good. If you have VAG-COM then you can see what the coolant temp is and that can help. 

Typically the fans won't do the highest speed unless the AC is on, so check to make sure it isn't, or there isn't some bad wiring there. Do you have the fan control wiring diagram?


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

sdezego said:


> Disregarding the description of ABS module, etc, it appears that they charged you for the work they did (mainly replacing rear calipers, ABS sensor, etc). If your ebrake is not working, then as mentioned, they either failed to hookup the rear cables onto the rear calipers or possibly need adj under the console where the cables connect to the handle. I am with the vote, that (for starters) they did not bleed the system properly (among other things). Whenever, I bleed the rears, I usually always take the one bolt off of the rear proportioning valve arm (marking it's position first), and collapse it. This simulates a load on the rear beam and issues more pressure (Opens the valve) to the rear channel. I have had finicky times trying to bleed the rear, so I do this on general principle.
> 
> It is going to be hard to find a mechanic who knows that relic TevesII system. You would be better off with a Corrado Enthusiast who has the knowledge, but that won't be easy either. I know the ABS systems fairly well, have Vag-Com with the 2x connector for the Corrado, but unfortunately, I am NE of Orlando. Consequently, I have an entire working TevesII system (with EDL) from a 93 Corrado that I transplanted into my 90 years back. I am moving to non-ABS at some point, just to simplify my life, but it has been working great for many years and I could be persuaded to sell the complete setup as a whole. I haven't read all of your posts regarding your ABS issues yet, so this may be overkill for a simple problem.


Thanks for replying. I think the parts are probably just fine and, like a few of you have said, the mechanic just didn't (doesn't) know the procedure.

At this stage, I am definitely leaning towards finding an enthusiast who is willing to help, to avoid any more issues with people not knowing the car/system. I would gladly pay you, or anyone for their time, but as you said, getting it done in a way that is easy for both parties is going to be a struggle. 

The most frustrating part is that the end game is to sell the car as I am now living overseas. So, if there are any enthusiasts (or non-enthusiasts) interested in a 93 VR6, and who are willing to negotiate a fair price, I'd be open to discussions.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

denver_fox said:


> Got the rado running again last weekend. Man that ignition switch was a pain.
> 
> Now I am trying to sort out my fan problem. Both fans run on high speed constantly when either the car is in aux or running.


The A/C cars don't use the wiring diagram that is in the "main" section in the bentley so disregard that. You need to use the A/C wiring section that matches your car because the fan is in that section. The early interior vs. late interior VR wiring diagrams are slightly different although the fan logic is the same.


There's 3 ways the fan can come on on low speed and the FCM is involved in only one of them, the least important.
#1. Air conditioning switched on, even if the A/C does not work. This runs the low speed fan directly through the A/C relay in the fusebox and fuse S19.
#2. Thermoswitch in the radiator, low temp side. This runs the fan on low speed directly, also through fuse S19.
#3. Fan afterrun, this happens if a) engine switched on then b) engine switched off then c) temperature switch in the yellow sensor senses > 100C. The FCM does this one. It's unfused on the early FCM, and uses the 20A fuse built into the later FCM.

There's two ways the fan can come on medium speed. The FCM handles both of these. Both of these are unfused on the early FCM, and use the 20A fuse on the later FCM.
#1. A/C pressure switch sees medium/high pressure. This is the black 4-pin switch on the A/C line next to the battery.
#2. Thermoswitch in the radiator, high temp side. Now, this one is confusing as the skinny wire from this switch is for medium speed and the fat wire is for low speed.

There's only one way to have the fan come on high speed. The FCM does this one. It's fused through the screw-down fuse link on both FCM.
#1. Brown temperature switch in the thermostat housing sees high temperature. Incidentally this also disables the air conditioner.

The 5A fuse in the later FCM is for the aux waterpump. It;s unfused on the early FCM.

So, to check the fan I would do this.
Verify the fan motor works on each speed, and works at the proper speed on each speed. This makes sure the motor and the resistor are OK. You can do this with jumper wires from the battery to the fan motor, just make sure that you put the negative on the correct terminal or the motor will work, but not correctly.
The way I do this, because I know my wiring is OK, is even easier.
1) Turn on the key. Don't start the engine.
2) Turn on the A/C, also the blower fan on low speed. It doesn't even need to work, or even have the refrigeration circuit installed. The fan should run on low speed, which takes 3 or 4 seconds for the fan to spool up. If this works, then the a) fan motor, 2) resistor, 3) fuse, and 4) most of the wiring is OK. However if it doesn't work at all there's a wiring problem or the motor is burned out; if it runs on high speed the resistor is shorted.
3) Assuming that the fan is running nicely on low speed, medium speed can be checked by jumping the A/C pressure switch. Unplug it and jumper the red/yellow and red/black together (those are the Bentley colors and I think they are wrong, it's pins 3 & 4 on the plug so use those terminals). Every time these 2 are jumped the fan should speed up to medium speed, when they are not jumped the fan should slow down to low speed. If this does not do anything either there's a problem with the FCM or the resistor in the fan motor is shorted, and the fan is running on medium speed all the time.
4) Check high speed by unplugging the brown switch on the thermostat housing. Jump the black/yellow and black/white, pins 2 and 3 on the plug. The fan should go to high speed, which is very noticeable! When these are not jumped the fan should slow down to low speed. Note, new "brown" sensors are actually blue so go by the plug color.
5) To check the fan afterrun turn the key off & take it out. Then unplug the yellow sensor and jump the brown/white to the brown (either one), these are pins 1 & 4. While it's jumped the fan and aux waterpump should run. This one is tricky because this part of the circuit isn't in the A/C wiring diagrams - you need to go back to the "main" diagram to find it. Some newer FCM's run the fan for a while after key off regardless of the yellow afterrun switch.
6) Everything has been checked except the radiator temperature switch. I believe this can be checked with the key off or on, you do need to shut the A/C off. Unplug the switch. Jump the fat red to the fat red/white and the fan should run on low speed. Then jump the fat red to the skinny red/yellow and the fan should run on medium speed.
7) The only function of the FCM that's not yet checked is the A/C compressor clutch. If you turn on the key, don't start the engine, and turn on the A/C the clutch should engage with a solid thunk. If it does not, then there's a bunch of switches in the circuit: low ambient temp (in the cowl next to the ECU), low evaporator temp (pushed into the A/C evaporator), low refrigerant pressure (the A/C pressure switch next to the battery), although I'd bet it's because there's no freon in the system and the low refrigerant pressure switch is preventing it. But fixing the A/C is a topic for another day.


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## denver_fox (Oct 15, 2011)

Wow, thanks for the replies, ariot and theprf, thats a lot of info to take in!:thumbup:

I forgot to mention before. My C is late interior, and the A/C system has been removed by the PO. It has the fused FCM. I'm not sure where the A/C pressure switch is. 

I tested the low speed and it seems to work fine. I did the A/C on and blower on method and it turned on fine. I also bridged the red wire to red/white on the radiator switch and it came on as well.

I'm not sure how to go about testing medium and high speed. Whenever I plug in the 10 spade side of the FCM(with the car in aux), my fan comes on high speed and doesnt stop until I turn the key off, unless I unplug the FCM or the fan sensor(brown 4 pin). I have checked the fuses in the FCM and s19 and they are good. 

So the only way I can have the FCM hooked up without the fans running on high is to disconnect the brown switch(4 pin) on the right side. Its like the sensor is saying the engine is always hot. Although I was having this problem before I replaced the sensors.

I went ahead and replaced the radiator switch this morning and nothing new happened. So new sensors, new FCM, new rad switch, and the fans are still on hurricane mode. Only other thing to replace is the resistor, no?:banghead:


Theprf, when you say "the new brown sensors are blue", did you mean the new yellow is blue? Or did autohaus lie and I have the sensors in the wrong spots? http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/701919369C

My sensors are, from left to right, blue 4 pin, blue 2 pin, brown four pin.

Thanks for your guys help so far. I feel like I'm reaaally close.

edit: Dont know if its related, but a couple weeks ago I pulled the negative cable on the battery for a few seconds with the corrado running to check the alternator. Could this have damaged something?


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

denver_fox said:


> Wow, thanks for the replies, ariot and theprf, thats a lot of info to take in!:thumbup:
> 
> I forgot to mention before. My C is late interior, and the A/C system has been removed by the PO. It has the fused FCM. I'm not sure where the A/C pressure switch is.
> 
> I tested the low speed and it seems to work fine. I did the A/C on and blower on method and it turned on fine. I also bridged the red wire to red/white on the radiator switch and it came on as well.


That's good!


> I'm not sure how to go about testing medium and high speed. Whenever I plug in the 10 spade side of the FCM(with the car in aux), my fan comes on high speed and doesnt stop until I turn the key off, unless I unplug the FCM or the fan sensor(brown 4 pin). I have checked the fuses in the FCM and s19 and they are good.
> 
> So the only way I can have the FCM hooked up without the fans running on high is to disconnect the brown switch(4 pin) on the right side. Its like the sensor is saying the engine is always hot. Although I was having this problem before I replaced the sensors.


So, if you pull the plug from the brown 4-pin sensor then the fan works normally? Try that, if you have not yet tried it.


> I went ahead and replaced the radiator switch this morning and nothing new happened. So new sensors, new FCM, new rad switch, and the fans are still on hurricane mode. Only other thing to replace is the resistor, no?:banghead:


Can't replace the resistor, it's part of the fan motor. And it does not sound like you need to.


> Theprf, when you say "the new brown sensors are blue", did you mean the new yellow is blue? Or did autohaus lie and I have the sensors in the wrong spots? http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/701919369C
> 
> My sensors are, from left to right, blue 4 pin, blue 2 pin, brown four pin.
> 
> Thanks for your guys help so far. I feel like I'm reaaally close.


You're right, the new yellow sensors are blue. Although I thought the brown ones were blue, too. The important things is to match the plug colors. The Blue 2-pin is for the ECU and that one's hard to mess up. The Yellow 4-pin feeds the dashboard temp gauge and the afterrun portion of the FCM. The brown one has a normally closed switch that enables the A/C and a normally open switch that turns on the fan on high speed. More on this later.

So, first thing: the DPO removed the A/C. And plugging in the brown sensor results in the fans running at high speed.

The next step is going to be to check the fans with the brown sensor unplugged. So unplug it, turn the key on but don't start it. Then check low and medium speed by jumping the radiator sensor's wires like I listed above. If you get low speed and medium speed where you should then almost everything is OK. 

Is there a random loose unplugged black 4-pin plug next to the battery? If so it's the A/C pressure switch plug. And you can unplug your brown sensor and run the test for medium fan speed by jumping pins in this plug, although it's not needed with the A/C removed. So you can also just forget about this plug.

If you find the fans work OK with the brown sensor unplugged, it sounds like you have a dud brown sensor. If the fan goes to super high speed every time it's plugged in, and drops to normal speed when it's unplugged, either:
a) the brown sensor is no good;
b) There's a wiring screwup in the brown sensor's plug;
c) There's a wiring screwup in the 8-pin to 10-pin converter harness attached to the FCM;
or d) there's a wiring screwup somewhere else.

My bet is the DPO tired to remove some of the A/C wiring and crossed some wires. This has resulted in the normally closed part of the brown switch connected to where the normally open part is supposed to go.
Grab your brown plug. It has the pin numbers molded on the side. Note down which colors go where & let us know.
Also, test the brown sensor. Do you have a test meter? Get one. With the brown sensor unplugged measure resistance between it's pins 2 & 3, should be infinite - if so the brown sensor is OK and you need to look for wiring problems.

PS, I would have no hesitation driving the car with the brown sensor unplugged if there is no A/C installed. I have never had the rad fan turn on high speed, ever, in any of my cars.


> edit: Dont know if its related, but a couple weeks ago I pulled the negative cable on the battery for a few seconds with the corrado running to check the alternator. Could this have damaged something?


NEVER do this! It's REALLY BAD. It's called a "load dump" and is the most harsh test possible for auto electronics because the "12V" will suddenly jump to 60 or 70 V for a short time until the voltage regulator in the alternator recovers.


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## c3k (May 1, 2006)

Alright this is a tricky one guys. 

I recently installed a new relayed headlight harness in my Corrado and let the car run in the driveway for 45 minutes while I wrenched on my Passat. The Corrado was kind of low on fuel and after awhile it died, I added more fuel to the tank and went to turn the car on. It cranked all day long but would not fire off. 

First things first I checked the fuse and relay #167, all good, then I checked the wiring from relay 167 to the fuel pump plug and there were no grounding or broken wires. I also checked that the fuel pump worked and it did indeed still pump fuel when I supplied battery power. 

Now after all this, I noticed some other electrical quirks such as the cluster illumination lights staying on and my high beam indicator light staying on, no interior lights, and windows as well. Cluster lights and high beam indicator remained on even when I had the ignition in the off position and the key out. 

I swapped in a brand new ignition switch and the problems all persisted. Next up I swapped fuse panels (man that wasn't as bad as I thought it'd be) still the no start condition remained as well as all the electrical quirks. What surprised me was on the old fuse panel between G2 09/10/11 there was slight char mark. I understand G2/09 is the ECU signal to relay #167? I'm sure there's a connection between a charred fuse panel in that area and a no start symptom but I was sure a new fuse panel would fix the issue.

Any insight?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

What relays did you use? Sounds like you are getting feedback. Do they have a small resistor soldered underneath (possibly internal) as these are used to prevent flyback in sensitive Electronics? If, so they can cause situations where the relay does not kick off (I had this issue when I mistakenly grabbed a wrong relay for my Fogs).

You need the standard cheapo relays.

Try just pulling out the headlight relays and see if issues persist.

Has to be related and or possibly the way the harness was wired up.


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

*Turn signal stalk, repairable?*

Recently my turn signals when pressed down (making left turns) does not always work, especially if the stalk is pressed down quickly using more force. If it is put down gently it works. I figured that it is probably some contacts wearing down and/or oxidizing, or the mechanical parts just are wearing so the stalk go beyond its intended stop position.

I'm wondering if the stalk can be disassembled and "refurbished", or if it is permanently molded together and only fix is to replace it. 

This is 92, so it is the older style. If I end up replacing it, I could go with newer style by replacing both stalks and using new steering column clamshell? Or is the wiring different?

EDIT: Some same generation Golf/Jetta/Polo turn signal switches seems same, but without the cruise control buttons. I believe the cruise control button signals are on that extra dangling wire? I'm thinking that I might find it easier/cheaper to get a stalk without the cruise controls and put my old handle with the cruise control buttons into the new stalk base? So the question is if the handle can be removed from the base?


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## b5in (Sep 10, 2003)

*02A?*

I am swapping my 02A with a hole in the case for one that doesn't :facepalm: and my question is does it have to have the metal cover that is usually sandwiched between the trans and motor, mine didn't have one for some reason so the flywheel is always exposed


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## VLub13 (Nov 28, 2002)

*Parking brake cables?*

I need to replace my parking brake cables, it looks like I need to remove the seats to do so, is this correct? The buckles on the seats get in the way of removing the parking brake assembly, from what I can tell.


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

VLub13 said:


> I need to replace my parking brake cables, it looks like I need to remove the seats to do so, is this correct? The buckles on the seats get in the way of removing the parking brake assembly, from what I can tell.


Yes you need to pull the middle plastic console, and while it can be done with them in place, I wouldn't bother considering how easy it is to take the seats out, since you'll probably crack it. While the seats are out, might as well grease your seat rails, put in new rubber and plastic guides at the same time. My seats glide so smoothly after using VW sunroof grease in the tracks.


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## Crazy Quest (Dec 14, 2014)

My Oem oil pressure and Volt gauge stopped working at the exact same time as my rear wing. The wing doesn't go up or down automatically or with the button. Also my windows work very intermittent. 

Any idea what this could be?

I was told there is a control module that ties all 3 of these things together behind the rear driver's side interior panel right next to the rear seat. Does this sound right?

Thanks alot. 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

Crazy Quest said:


> My Oem oil pressure and Volt gauge stopped working at the exact same time as my rear wing. The wing doesn't go up or down automatically or with the button. Also my windows work very intermittent.
> 
> Any idea what this could be?
> 
> ...


Blown fuse. Probably from the spoiler motor drawing too much current. Oh, the brake warning lights are on the same fuse - so they don't work now, either.


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## Crazy Quest (Dec 14, 2014)

theprf said:


> Blown fuse. Probably from the spoiler motor drawing too much current. Oh, the brake warning lights are on the same fuse - so they don't work now, either.


Ok so just a standard fuse under the dash? Or another fuse somewhere else? I'll check the brake lights and see if they work. But I'm fairly certain they are working. 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## vw16v88 (Oct 4, 2002)

Crazy Quest said:


> Ok so just a standard fuse under the dash?


Yup!

-Jeff


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## Crazy Quest (Dec 14, 2014)

vw16v88 said:


> Yup!
> 
> -Jeff


Thanks alot man! I'll check all the fuses tonight. 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

When my spoiler stopped working, my windows failed and the mirrors wouldn't move. I think my oil/volt meters still worked though. It was fixed by replacing a fuse, the number of which I can't recall, but it was clearly blown. You may have 2 fuses that blew, perhaps because someone put the wrong value in and it took 2 out. I seem to think this happens if I happen to be opening the sunroof when I hit 45 mph and the spoiler starts to go up. With both motors running, the fuse blows. So I don't do that now.


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## Crazy Quest (Dec 14, 2014)

a_riot said:


> When my spoiler stopped working, my windows failed and the mirrors wouldn't move. I think my oil/volt meters still worked though. It was fixed by replacing a fuse, the number of which I can't recall, but it was clearly blown. You may have 2 fuses that blew, perhaps because someone put the wrong value in and it took 2 out. I seem to think this happens if I happen to be opening the sunroof when I hit 45 mph and the spoiler starts to go up. With both motors running, the fuse blows. So I don't do that now.


My mirrors don't work either Hahah. I'm gonna get out my Bentley manual and check all the numbers and replace them all with new BUSS fusses. 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

Crazy Quest said:


> My mirrors don't work either Hahah. I'm gonna get out my Bentley manual and check all the numbers and replace them all with new BUSS fusses.


The Bentley doesn't really show how they are all wired together through the same fuse for some reason. At least I couldn't figure it out when I was trying to fix this. I couldn't find where on the schematic the mirrors, spoiler and sunroof voltage went through that one fuse. I ended up replacing all fuses, and a few were the wrong value so its a good thing to do if you haven't already. Cheap insurance.


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## Crazy Quest (Dec 14, 2014)

a_riot said:


> The Bentley doesn't really show how they are all wired together through the same fuse for some reason. At least I couldn't figure it out when I was trying to fix this. I couldn't find where on the schematic the mirrors, spoiler and sunroof voltage went through that one fuse. I ended up replacing all fuses, and a few were the wrong value so its a good thing to do if you haven't already. Cheap insurance.


The fuses were in fact toast. So I replaced them and now everything works flawlessly. I'm gonna assume I am going to need to do the rear wing motor clean up to help the fuse stop blowing

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Mudkicker99 (May 11, 2008)

*Smoke / Red Tail Lights*

Always wanted a set of Smoke/Red, between InPro and FK which of the two have the darker smoke?
Also, anybody have a set for sale?
Thanks


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## b5in (Sep 10, 2003)

OK so I was sitting at a light when my '92 VR6 just shut off right as I was going to start taking off and it would just crank and try to start but won't catch. It even backfired a couple times in the exhaust.

It has a new CPS and Ign. switch, I am getting fuel, I haven't checked for spark but as I checked voltage at the coil it had 12v so I plugged the connector back into the coil and all the sudden BOOM the Intake Damper exploded like a bomb...I thought 1/2 my face was gone 

do you think it was clogged or maybe a intake backfire? can I try to start the car w/o one just to see if that was the problem, if it was clogged would it keep the car from running?


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## jewnersey (Oct 21, 2004)

non-abs swap

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?8530034-Fs-B3-b4-non-abs-bracket-booster

What else do I need?
Master cylinder?


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

b5in said:


> OK so I was sitting at a light when my '92 VR6 just shut off right as I was going to start taking off and it would just crank and try to start but won't catch. It even backfired a couple times in the exhaust.
> 
> It has a new CPS and Ign. switch, I am getting fuel, I haven't checked for spark but as I checked voltage at the coil it had 12v so I plugged the connector back into the coil and all the sudden BOOM the Intake Damper exploded like a bomb...I thought 1/2 my face was gone
> 
> do you think it was clogged or maybe a intake backfire? can I try to start the car w/o one just to see if that was the problem, if it was clogged would it keep the car from running?


Mine wouldn't start after my damper exploded. Mine exploded just as I was trying to start my C. Luckily the damper just blew apart and I was able to zip-tie it back together and drive to the dealer to order or pick up a new one. I'm sure they are NLA by now.

As far as I know, you could bypass it and get the C running. You just want to make sure it doesn't have another backfire. I don't think they have any function except dampening backfires in the intake. I believe they are like a fuse and blow to save more expensive parts if you have a big intake backfire. 

If I remember correctly, they are just packed with mesh or some sort of dampening material (like in a valve cover breather before emissions systems). I don't think they get clogged per-se but do collect a lot of oil fumes. 

-Eric


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## b5in (Sep 10, 2003)

could an ignition coil go bad as you're driving and it's less than a year old? Also could a bad coil cause a backfire in the manifold?

when I check resistance for the primary it reads 1.2 (multimeter lowest setting is set at 200) and the secondary is 8.13 (multimeter is set to 20k) do these readings mean the coil is bad if primary should be 0.5 to 0.7 Ohms and secondary should be 3000 to 4000 Ohms?


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

b5in said:


> could an ignition coil go bad as you're driving and it's less than a year old? Also could a bad coil cause a backfire in the manifold?


Yes. Did you buy OEM or cheap?

If the spark happens at the wrong time, it could backfire.



b5in said:


> when I check resistance for the primary it reads 1.2 (multimeter lowest setting is set at 200) and the secondary is 8.13 (multimeter is set to 20k) do these readings mean the coil is bad if primary should be 0.5 to 0.7 Ohms and secondary should be 3000 to 4000 Ohms?


I would say it's bad, but next time check it right after you pull it out of the box. Do you have the original one you can swap back in? 

My new Scirocco OEM Bosch coil had different readings than the Bentley said it should. I called the VW aftermarket company I bought it from and they said it was OK. I wrote the readings for the new coil in my Bentley next to the "correct" specifications.

-Eric


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> My new Scirocco OEM Bosch coil had different readings than the Bentley said it should. I called the VW aftermarket company I bought it from and they said it was OK. I wrote the readings for the new coil in my Bentley next to the "correct" specifications.


Great idea!


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## b5in (Sep 10, 2003)

Window question...when I switch the windows to go down I hear the module making noises behind the drivers seat and the windows do nothing. I put 12v directly to the window motor and it works 100% so does that mean the module is no good?

All fuses are intact.

switches light up but windows and mirrors don't move at all 

also when I took the driver's door panel off I noticed this large connector not connected to anything do you know what it should go to?


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

b5in said:


> Window question...when I switch the windows to go down I hear the module making noises behind the drivers seat and the windows do nothing. I put 12v directly to the window motor and it works 100% so does that mean the module is no good?
> 
> All fuses are intact.
> 
> ...


If you hear the relays clicking away the module is probably fine. Typically when the windows and mirrors no longer work its a fuse...#14 or #17 IIRC? If you have a volt meter, test the output of the module and see if its outputting power to the window when you hit the button. Then test at the window to see if you have voltage drop. That disconnected connector reminds me of the one for the auto seatbelts so if you have the normal Euro belts you won't need it.


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## harley_steel (Aug 27, 2013)

Can anyone tell me if this crank sensor is going bad from this scope output? 4V peak to peak in some places seems a little low. This was taken at cranking speed ~190RPM


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## b5in (Sep 10, 2003)

this car is going to be the death of me...


My car just shut off on me one day & wouldn't start again and when installing my new ignition rotor I noticed the rotor & shaft spins freely... that's not supposed to do that right?


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## blackslcchild (Dec 13, 2012)

The ignition switch?


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

b5in said:


> this car is going to be the death of me...
> 
> 
> My car just shut off on me one day & wouldn't start again and when installing my new ignition rotor I noticed the rotor & shaft spins freely... that's not supposed to do that right?


No, ignition distributer shafts are not supposed to spin freely. Is the rotor fully seated?

I believe you are supposed to glue the rotor on with Blue Locktite but make sure it's seated fully also.

I don't think the distributer on the '92 VR6 has any advance mechanism, so the shaft should not move at all.

On older ignition distributers with centrifugal advance, the shaft will move a bit.

-Eric


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

blackslcchild said:


> The ignition switch?


Another common reason a VW might not want to start.

I think the last time my ignition switch was bad, the engine would crank and fire, but would die as soon as I let go of the key. 

-Eric


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

If you can pull the shaft out and inspect it, all will be told. If it won't come out, it's time to buy a new rotor and move forward.



b5in said:


> this car is going to be the death of me...
> 
> 
> My car just shut off on me one day & wouldn't start again and when installing my new ignition rotor I noticed the rotor & shaft spins freely... that's not supposed to do that right?





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## b5in (Sep 10, 2003)

thanks for the info guys :thumbup:

I pulled the dizzy out and the pin that locks the rotor shaft to the piece that locks into the cam had backed out so the motor was turning but the distributer wasn't spinning. I put a new pin in (37¢ damn pinché cents) and she fired right up. Crazy how such a little thing can cost an $80 tow and the stress of it all :banghead::facepalm:


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## c3k (May 1, 2006)

c3k said:


> Alright this is a tricky one guys.
> 
> I recently installed a new relayed headlight harness in my Corrado and let the car run in the driveway for 45 minutes while I wrenched on my Passat. The Corrado was kind of low on fuel and after awhile it died, I added more fuel to the tank and went to turn the car on. It cranked all day long but would not fire off.
> 
> ...




Figured it out. My crank position sensor was ohming out good and allowing the fuel pump to pressurize but was not letting the coilpack fire or the injectors pulse. That problem coupled with a bad ground resulted in my issue. Now to figure out if it is my windshield leaking or my rain tray..... The Corrado fun never stops.


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## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

*Vacuum leak: Controls or Vent Assy?*

Hey all,

This may be a new one but when in my 90 G60 the revs surge when I turn on the climate the control. It happens when moving the slider to any position from any position, but I noticed its more pronounced at the far right position which is the defogger spot. Definitely feels like a vacuum leak to me and associated with the vacuum line either at the controls or at the airbox with the vent valves. Its not associated with the A/C.

I'm going to start by plugging hte vacuum line that goes into the cockpit to isolate the issue, but I was curious if anyone had ever heard of this happening before and if it was at the controls or vent box. My hunch it could be either place.

-e


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## g60racer (Nov 18, 2000)

I think you're on the right track with the vacuum leak, but I'd guess it to be much closer to the intake manifold. Check the fabric covered vacuum hoses that feed the HVAC system along the fire wall. Check for cracks in rubber part of the hoses, & broken nipples on the check valves and connectors. They're far more likely to break from engine heat cycling than the connections in your dash. 

In the dash, the most likely place to break is the air distribution box attached to the HVAC control sliders. It's the only moving part that affects vacuum lines. And it is susceptible to cracking.


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## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

*Alrighty then..*

So I went ahead and plugged up all non-essential vacuum lines from the intake the manifold to no avail. Even with no vaccum line attached, moving the heater controls around made the engine surge. So, I tried disconnecting the plugs at the heater control at the dash and it still surged. Last thing I did (which I suppose should have been more first thing) was to pull the AC relay (relay 1) on the relay panel. That seemed to do it. No more surging when moving the controls around. However, there is still one feature that remains. When I come off the throttle the rpms take a bit of time to come down from 2000 down to ~800rpm. It's not terrible but very noticable. It seems to idle ok once it finally settles.

Perhaps something in the AC circuit is the culprit? For example, maybe the ECU iis slowing the rev drop to compensate for the AC being perceived on? I'll get a replacement AC relay and go from there.

I have a wideband AFR gauge and it seems to be bouncing around 14.7 which is good.


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

*Knock Snesor 1 (G61) code*

Recently I started getting this 524 Knock Sensor 1 (G61), 31-00 Open or Short to Ground on my Corrado. When the code is present the car hesitates and bucks when increasing throttle from coasting to acceleration. Once past that hickup it pulls fine.

I did replace the Knock sensor 1 (passenger side under exhaust manifold) but that did not cure the problem. I also checked the wiring visually seems fine and tried unplugging and replugging the ECU. No difference.

Only clue I can think of is that I had recently filled with mid grade 89 octane fuel. (Who knows what octane it was? Maybe even regular 87!) I started noticing unusual pinging sound (knock?) at heavy acceleration so I must assume it is likely knocking, but that should not set the fault code? But if I just let it idle or drive lightly it does not seem to set the code.

The question I have is that if the knock sensor detects a lot of knocking will the ECU set the above code? (Misleadingly telling the sensor is faulty, when it actually isn't?) And it only shows on knock sensor 1, never on sensor 2?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

TheRealEddie said:


> So I went ahead and plugged up all non-essential vacuum lines from the intake the manifold to no avail. Even with no vaccum line attached, moving the heater controls around made the engine surge. So, I tried disconnecting the plugs at the heater control at the dash and it still surged. Last thing I did (which I suppose should have been more first thing) was to pull the AC relay (relay 1) on the relay panel. That seemed to do it. No more surging when moving the controls around. However, there is still one feature that remains. When I come off the throttle the rpms take a bit of time to come down from 2000 down to ~800rpm. It's not terrible but very noticable. It seems to idle ok once it finally settles.
> 
> Perhaps something in the AC circuit is the culprit? For example, maybe the ECU iis slowing the rev drop to compensate for the AC being perceived on? I'll get a replacement AC relay and go from there.
> 
> I have a wideband AFR gauge and it seems to be bouncing around 14.7 which is good.


Did you remove A/C or not? Hard to tell. Also what year? 93 Round Dial Controls? Reason I ask is because there is an Electronic Solenoid to control the Fresh air flap for 93+. IF there is a vacuum leak it will cause issues in certain conditions where is expects Fresh Air.

also, regardless of year, has the vacuum canister in the pass fender well been bypassed? This acts as a reservoir/buffer for the vacuum system. Providing that the one way valve is installed an intact that is.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

matsavol said:


> Recently I started getting this 524 Knock Sensor 1 (G61), 31-00 Open or Short to Ground on my Corrado. When the code is present the car hesitates and bucks when increasing throttle from coasting to acceleration. Once past that hickup it pulls fine.
> 
> I did replace the Knock sensor 1 (passenger side under exhaust manifold) but that did not cure the problem. I also checked the wiring visually seems fine and tried unplugging and replugging the ECU. No difference.
> 
> ...


Let's figure out the genesis. Did this just start when filling with less than High Octane (92)? If so, then let's assume that it is the gas. No VW after the late 80's should be run with less than 92 IMO. and all Multi valve and Vr6 should use 92+

I suppose if the gas was 89 the Knock Sensor could keep triggering giving a fault to ground sense to the ECU. Don't take this as an resolution as I am just rationalizing, but seems plausible,


Easiest thing is to fill with 93 on en empty tank and see if condition continues.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

TheRealEddie said:


> Hey all,
> 
> This may be a new one but when in my 90 G60 the revs surge when I turn on the climate the control. It happens when moving the slider to any position from any position, but I noticed its more pronounced at the far right position which is the defogger spot. Definitely feels like a vacuum leak to me and associated with the vacuum line either at the controls or at the airbox with the vent valves. Its not associated with the A/C.
> 
> ...


The problem with this this this tread, is is it impossible to read every post. I just happened to look up and see it you have a G60 (thus not a 93+ vr). Still the vacuum canister and one way valve still applies,


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

Now that I think more of this the car had felt "strange throttle response" some time already before I had the 89 octane fill. I just happened to check the engine codes after I had the recent fill. (I was expecting to see a throttle position sensor code but luckily I checked the codes before going into completely wrong direction.) After the 89 octane the audible knock/ping at hard acceleration really became evident especially right after clearing the code.

I siphoned some 5 gallons out and filled in 7 gallons of premium (93). After it mixes the gas should be near ~91 octane. Let's see if it helps.



sdezego said:


> Let's figure out the genesis. Did this just start when filling with less than High Octane (92)? If so, then let's assume that it is the gas. No VW after the late 80's should be run with less than 92 IMO. and all Multi valve and Vr6 should use 92+
> 
> I suppose if the gas was 89 the Knock Sensor could keep triggering giving a fault to ground sense to the ECU. Don't take this as an resolution as I am just rationalizing, but seems plausible,
> 
> ...


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## c3k (May 1, 2006)

I've got a strange HVAC related whistle that happens when I change where the air blows out. Initially I thought it was one of the actuators but I can't locate the source of the whistle. My car is a 92 with the early style interior.

Can someone post a picture of the lower vacuum actuator that rests directly behind the center console below the HVAC assembly? I believe my hoses are connected in the proper place however considering the abuse this car has suffered over the years anything is possible. 

Thanks 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

sdezego said:


> The problem with this this this tread, is is it impossible to read every post.


Agreed. Its a dumb way to ask questions in a forum if you ask me, every question and follow up answers all in one single thread. Over 400 pages now, so you can never follow anything, and searching is difficult. The whole point of a forum is to have it organized into threads that pertain to certain topics so they can be followed, searched, etc. There's a lot of good advice in this thread, but how would you know without reading over 400 pages?


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

c3k said:


> I've got a strange HVAC related whistle that happens when I change where the air blows out. Initially I thought it was one of the actuators but I can't locate the source of the whistle. My car is a 92 with the early style interior.
> 
> Can someone post a picture of the lower vacuum actuator that rests directly behind the center console below the HVAC assembly? I believe my hoses are connected in the proper place however considering the abuse this car has suffered over the years anything is possible.
> 
> Thanks


You might have lost some of the foam that blocks the holes in the flaps causing a whistling sound. I had a whistling noise for a while, but then it went away as more and more foam got blown in my face. if you find your air isn't as hot or cold as it should be as well, that's a good sign the foam is disintegrating on you.


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## c3k (May 1, 2006)

a_riot said:


> You might have lost some of the foam that blocks the holes in the flaps causing a whistling sound. I had a whistling noise for a while, but then it went away as more and more foam got blown in my face. if you find your air isn't as hot or cold as it should be as well, that's a good sign the foam is disintegrating on you.


I replaced the heater core a few years back and replaced all the decaying foam with felt tape. 

I'm almost certain the whistling sound is associated with the vacuum system that moves the flaps in the HVAC box. 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

c3k said:


> I replaced the heater core a few years back and replaced all the decaying foam with felt tape.
> 
> I'm almost certain the whistling sound is associated with the vacuum system that moves the flaps in the HVAC box.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


So it only whistles when the door actually moves, but not whenever air is moving through the system? I think that may be fairly normal. 
Does it whistle with the fan off when moving the door or does the fan have to be on?


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## c3k (May 1, 2006)

a_riot said:


> So it only whistles when the door actually moves, but not whenever air is moving through the system? I think that may be fairly normal.
> Does it whistle with the fan off when moving the door or does the fan have to be on?




Yeah, sorry I should have specified. The whistle only occurs when the doors are moving, whether the fan is on or off it does not matter. Sometimes when accelerating or decelerating the whistle occurs, even though I have not selected a new setting for the vents.


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## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

Hi guys,

Sorry, about the confusion with this thread. Tbh since I picked up the Corrado 5 years ago I thought this thread was kinda how it worked here. 

Additional testing has revealed that even with the vacuum line going to the cockpit (and heater controls) plugged, I still get rev impacts when moving the slider around. It seems more like an electrical gremlin at this point. I changed the AC relay, and the behavior changed. Now it only revs up to 2500 when in the AC position on the heater control. On the non-AC positions the revs dont go bonkers, although the revs seem damped when returning back to idle after being risen by applying some throttle. I will try to look at the canister, but yeah, it really does seem more electrical.

thanks!
eddie


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

See what it does after you disconnect the ISV (idle stab valve) on top of the valve cover.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

petethepug said:


> See what it does after you disconnect the ISV (idle stab valve) on top of the valve cover.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hey man!

Yeah, tried that, at least with the heater controls off. Car sputters about as I think it should. When it plug it back in, the idle goes back to normal. 

-e


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## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

TheRealEddie said:


> Hey man!
> 
> Yeah, tried that, at least with the heater controls off. Car sputters about as I think it should. When it plug it back in, the idle goes back to normal.
> 
> -e


Hmm, this thread might be useful:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7135290-AC-wiring-relay-delete-Q-s

Question: are the only vital vacuum linse the big one to the ISV, the small one leading out the back of the throttlebody which goes to the ECU, and the line that goes from the intake manifold to the fuel pressure reg? 

Im thinking of just plugging up the rest, i.e. the big T-line that goes to the brake booster, canister, and cockpit, and the line that goes from the bottom of the throttle body (rear side) to the canister.

-eddie


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Ck ur fuel press w/ a gauge, fuel press reg for blown diaphragm and coil & coil wire for "that burnt smell". If it's an after mkt coil the die prematurely when mounted sideways.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

TheRealEddie said:


> Hey all,
> 
> This may be a new one but when in my 90 G60 the revs surge when I turn on the climate the control. It happens when moving the slider to any position from any position, but I noticed its more pronounced at the far right position which is the defogger spot. Definitely feels like a vacuum leak to me and associated with the vacuum line either at the controls or at the airbox with the vent valves. Its not associated with the A/C.
> 
> ...


Well, I think most modern A/C systems rev the engine a bit if you use A/C. The A/C compressor also comes on in Defrost. My VWs are that way and so is my '77 Ford. I think you have an A/C problem. I guess it is possible that the vacuum distributer could leak, but I would think it would be leaking all the time. You could replace the fresh air control unit to see.

They are NLA even with VW Classic Parts, but here's a aftermarket one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fresh-Air-a...ash=item235fa51d09:g:O0QAAOSwyjBW4n40&vxp=mtr

Since you pulled the A/C relay and the problem changed, you should now check the rest of the HVAC system. 



-Eric


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## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

Thanks all for the tips. Here's an update.

Per that thread I linked above regarding an AC delete, I found the wire that triggers the ECU to compensate for the AC being turned on, disconnected it, and the the car no longer surges to 2000 when the heater controls are in the AC position. Thats good.

Btw I should have noted that my AC never worked. The clutch on the compressor never triggers. So a solution which bypasses the AC is fine with me. 

So now I'm at the situation where the car behaves the same wherever the heater controls are, thats good. Also, it generally idles at the right spot and the wideband AFR is still showing around 14.7 which is good. 

The only remaining issue is the fact when I rev the car up and let go of the throttle, the return to idle still falls to around 1300 RPM or so, sits there a bit and then slowly returns to nominal ~800 RPM.

I'll continue to look at the vacuum system. 

Thanks!
eddie


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## VLub13 (Nov 28, 2002)

Tried search, but didn't see anyone with my exact issue. 93 SLC, cluster lights and center console lights(Battery voltage and oil pressure) no longer illuminate. Checked all fuses, is this a known issue?


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

VLub13 said:


> Tried search, but didn't see anyone with my exact issue. 93 SLC, cluster lights and center console lights(Battery voltage and oil pressure) no longer illuminate. Checked all fuses, is this a known issue?


Everything else is ok? If so it could just be the bulbs are burned out or something with that circuit in the cluster. I've see solder joints fail and they just need to be reheated.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Unplug & Plug harness connector at back of cluster. You'll have to take it out eventually. Once you've got it halfway out, prepare for the easiest fix while it's in your grasp.

Lurk the classifieds or even eBay.uk to purchase a potential replacement prior to dismantling your binnacle. Pulling it apart once to either tighten the harness connection or add a working cluster is much more rewarding than playing the reassembly game.

In the end, you'll have either an unused replacement cluster or a wonky cluster on your lap after you reassembled your binnacle (just once). A Corrado owners success usually means a two or three pronged attack on systems. 

Having a spare in my case meant having a spare to swap in when a hunch to running full pig rich on my g60 surprisingly led back to a bad solder joint in a pcb of the cluster. Having the spares cluster makes the Corrado owner penny wise and "not" pound foolish.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## VLub13 (Nov 28, 2002)

I have had the cluster out many times to replace ABS unit and rewire ABS pump fuse. I actually have a spare cluster, just never thought it would be that easy, figured the cluster/console shared a common ground and so on. Will give the swap a try. So if this suggestion is correct, a blown bulb or open solder would cause an open in the circuit, thus opening entire circuit? Like this is a series circuit?


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

*Solved*



matsavol said:


> Now that I think more of this the car had felt "strange throttle response" some time already before I had the 89 octane fill. I just happened to check the engine codes after I had the recent fill. (I was expecting to see a throttle position sensor code but luckily I checked the codes before going into completely wrong direction.) After the 89 octane the audible knock/ping at hard acceleration really became evident especially right after clearing the code.
> 
> I siphoned some 5 gallons out and filled in 7 gallons of premium (93). After it mixes the gas should be near ~91 octane. Let's see if it helps.


Finally solved the problem. After driving with at least 92 octane mix and no improvement to the code, I started looking at the wiring again. It turned out that one of the wires had broken inside the connector above the rear engine mount. The boot had to be pushed back to expose it. Now after reconnecting the wire back to the terminal the code hasn't come back. :thumbup:


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## Flo3883 (Jun 17, 2017)

*1992 corrado fuel system- need help*

Hello everyone, 

I have a 1992 corrado slc, the car had a hard time starting since I owned it. A couple of days ago it wouldn't start at all, I checked the fuel system and it seems that the fuel pump is not working when I turn the key. I am measuring no voltage at the pump itself when I turn the key. I measured on the fuel pump relay and found that the ground from the ecm on pin 3 is not coming, everything else seems to be ok. What other conditions have to meet before the fuel pump gets the signal to prime or could it be a defective ecm ? 

Thank you


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## chrism1 (Sep 21, 2014)

*G60 mystery*

OK I have been trying to figure out some stuff on my G60 that seems to be a mystery to me. To start i have an ISV re-route, eurosport tubes, RSR outlet, 100% up to date maintenance on the car, green top injectors, eurosport intake, full exhaust and the car runs pretty perfect. The charger has some markings on the outside leading me to believe it has been rebuilt and a cogged charger belt (not the surpentine). I have the stock 78mm pulley on it and what looks like an older OEM FPR which i believe is 3.0 bar. There is a burble at idle which also leads me to believe it is cammed but i never opened it up to see and i never opened the ecu up to check for a chip but there was an old faded out Neuspeed sticker on the rad cover which gives me a clue there is some chip or was at some point.

Now my mystery is this. In 2nd gear and 3rd gear i can spin the tires and my boost gauge reads consistently between 15-17lbs of boost and the car feels super strong. On a cool day like 45-55 degrees i have hit 19lbs....i want to go with a smaller bbm pulley but i also need to know what supportive mods i should do other than a new FPR, belts, and pulley. The car also tends to run a bit rich initially when started but mostly stoic once it is warmed up. i bought the car used a few years ago and have been updating or replacing just about everything from the previous owner who just slapped on random garbage that i have since replaced with either new or NOS parts. I guess at some point i need to crack open the ECU but wanted to know if anyone had ideas on why the car runs so strong and if its possible that I just peaked an OEM spec car with all the supportive mods....is it possible that it would run such high boost? (its been checked with MAF and a boost gauge)......thoughts?


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

matsavol said:


> Recently my turn signals when pressed down (making left turns) does not always work, especially if the stalk is pressed down quickly using more force. If it is put down gently it works. I figured that it is probably some contacts wearing down and/or oxidizing, or the mechanical parts just are wearing so the stalk go beyond its intended stop position.
> 
> I'm wondering if the stalk can be disassembled and "refurbished", or if it is permanently molded together and only fix is to replace it.
> 
> ...


Bump if anyone has some thoughts?


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## c3k (May 1, 2006)

Flo3883 said:


> Hello everyone,
> 
> I have a 1992 corrado slc, the car had a hard time starting since I owned it. A couple of days ago it wouldn't start at all, I checked the fuel system and it seems that the fuel pump is not working when I turn the key. I am measuring no voltage at the pump itself when I turn the key. I measured on the fuel pump relay and found that the ground from the ecm on pin 3 is not coming, everything else seems to be ok. What other conditions have to meet before the fuel pump gets the signal to prime or could it be a defective ecm ?
> 
> Thank you




Make sure your fuel pump relay is working properly, it is a white/grey relay labeled #167. If it checks out I'd make sure you're crank position sensor is working next. The fuel pump relay clicks over when it gets a ground signal from the ECU. The ECU in turn gets this signal from the CPS. When it gets hot these crank position sensors seem to give up the ghost very quickly. I just recently battled the same symptoms you're describing on my '92 SLC and just last week my '98 Jetta GLX did the same thing. My CPS checked out and was within the required ohm reading but when I swapped in a known working CPS from my daily driver the car fired right up. 

The relay is much cheaper to replace and usually fails first so I would check that prior to going out and buying a new crank position sensor. I recommend purchasing through FCP Euro as they have a lifetime guarantee on their parts as well as fast shipping. 

:beer:


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

matsavol said:


> Bump if anyone has some thoughts?


You can disassemble the entire thing. Once the screws are removed you'll need to work the clips free. There's no needs to take the stalks apart, though, and the cruise/MFA end caps are glued, so destruction will ensue. 

All the stuff that fails is in the circular part. Pay close attention and carefully separate the halves. There's some small bits that'll make a run for it if you're careless. 

Other than cruise and MFA the only difference I've found is the length of the wiring harness. The Corrado uses a crazy long harness and no other model I've seen comes close. I actually have one from a Passat in my G60 that I extended the wires to fit. 

If some asshat cuts you off and pulling on the bright's stalk in anger seems logical, it's not. You'll break the return tab and have constant high-beams.


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## chrism1 (Sep 21, 2014)

chrism1 said:


> OK I have been trying to figure out some stuff on my G60 that seems to be a mystery to me. To start i have an ISV re-route, eurosport tubes, RSR outlet, 100% up to date maintenance on the car, green top injectors, eurosport intake, full exhaust and the car runs pretty perfect. The charger has some markings on the outside leading me to believe it has been rebuilt and a cogged charger belt (not the surpentine). I have the stock 78mm pulley on it and what looks like an older OEM FPR which i believe is 3.0 bar. There is a burble at idle which also leads me to believe it is cammed but i never opened it up to see and i never opened the ecu up to check for a chip but there was an old faded out Neuspeed sticker on the rad cover which gives me a clue there is some chip or was at some point.
> 
> Now my mystery is this. In 2nd gear and 3rd gear i can spin the tires and my boost gauge reads consistently between 15-17lbs of boost and the car feels super strong. On a cool day like 45-55 degrees i have hit 19lbs....i want to go with a smaller bbm pulley but i also need to know what supportive mods i should do other than a new FPR, belts, and pulley. The car also tends to run a bit rich initially when started but mostly stoic once it is warmed up. i bought the car used a few years ago and have been updating or replacing just about everything from the previous owner who just slapped on random garbage that i have since replaced with either new or NOS parts. I guess at some point i need to crack open the ECU but wanted to know if anyone had ideas on why the car runs so strong and if its possible that I just peaked an OEM spec car with all the supportive mods....is it possible that it would run such high boost? (its been checked with MAF and a boost gauge)......thoughts?



Anyone?


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## Flo3883 (Jun 17, 2017)

c3k said:


> Make sure your fuel pump relay is working properly, it is a white/grey relay labeled #167. If it checks out I'd make sure you're crank position sensor is working next. The fuel pump relay clicks over when it gets a ground signal from the ECU. The ECU in turn gets this signal from the CPS. When it gets hot these crank position sensors seem to give up the ghost very quickly. I just recently battled the same symptoms you're describing on my '92 SLC and just last week my '98 Jetta GLX did the same thing. My CPS checked out and was within the required ohm reading but when I swapped in a known working CPS from my daily driver the car fired right up.
> 
> The relay is much cheaper to replace and usually fails first so I would check that prior to going out and buying a new crank position sensor. I recommend purchasing through FCP Euro as they have a lifetime guarantee on their parts as well as fast shipping.
> 
> :beer:


Thank you for you answer. I have checked and also replaced the fuel pump relay. The pin coming from the ECU stays on 12 so I never get the found to switch the relay. I checked the Crank sensor this morning and get 560 ohm between pin 1 and 2.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

Flo3883 said:


> Thank you for you answer. I have checked and also replaced the fuel pump relay. The pin coming from the ECU stays on 12 so I never get the found to switch the relay. I checked the Crank sensor this morning and get 560 ohm between pin 1 and 2.



What c3k did not say outright is that the ECU needs to see the engine crankshaft turning before it will energize the fuel pump. If you just turn the key on the fuel pump will not run. The ECU relies on the crank position sensor to tell it the engine is turning. If the crank position sensor is no good the ECU will never turn on the fuel pump.

If the tachometer needle jumps around while cranking the engine with the starter that implies that the ECU and crank position sensor are OK.
If the tach needle does not move while cranking the engine with the starter then you need to start looking at the crank pos sensor or the wiring or the ECU.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Sort of, obd1 will prime w key on, obd2 doesn't. Agreed about the tach but some are lazy and won't move if cranking slow. Best bet is hook up with vag com and see if you have codes see rpm etc


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## c3k (May 1, 2006)

theprf said:


> What c3k did not say outright is that the ECU needs to see the engine crankshaft turning before it will energize the fuel pump. If you just turn the key on the fuel pump will not run. The ECU relies on the crank position sensor to tell it the engine is turning. If the crank position sensor is no good the ECU will never turn on the fuel pump.
> 
> If the tachometer needle jumps around while cranking the engine with the starter that implies that the ECU and crank position sensor are OK.
> If the tach needle does not move while cranking the engine with the starter then you need to start looking at the crank pos sensor or the wiring or the ECU.


Exactly, I should have clarified that. The ECU won't give the coil pack a signal or the fuel pump a signal unless the crank position sensor is working. 

Flo3883, check your grounds as well. The ECU grounds to the engine on the back near the throttle body/intake manifold. I have had cars fail to start because that ground connection is a little corroded. 

560 ohms is within spec, but like I said I've had some sensors check within their tolerances and still cause a no start symptom. 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## MexicanPsycho (Apr 10, 2004)

92 slc dizzy
Had a crank/no start issue
Ecu and crank position sensor checked out ok
Replaced coil with a good used one and it fired right up
Few hours later it won't start again, no spark.
Can hear the ecu relay click, swapped it out no change
Fuel pump primes

Help please?


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

There are known issues w/ VR coils. Diagnose both coils to get this issue off the diagnosis check list.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

MexicanPsycho said:


> 92 slc dizzy
> Had a crank/no start issue
> Ecu and crank position sensor checked out ok
> Replaced coil with a good used one and it fired right up
> ...


Perhaps a bad hall sensor. Do you have a spare distributor to test?


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## c3k (May 1, 2006)

Are you getting fuel to the rail. If not, odds are it's the crank position sensor. It might have ohmed out good but still be bad. I've had 2 or 3 do that and they all seem to give up the ghost right at the beginning of summer when it gets hot. 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

TheDeckMan said:


> Perhaps a bad hall sensor. Do you have a spare distributor to test?


Car will run with a bad hall sensor, with about half the power and double the fuel consumption... lol.


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## MexicanPsycho (Apr 10, 2004)

c3k said:


> Are you getting fuel to the rail. If not, odds are it's the crank position sensor. It might have ohmed out good but still be bad. I've had 2 or 3 do that and they all seem to give up the ghost right at the beginning of summer when it gets hot.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


Fixed! Negative battery terminal was loose, tightened it down and started right up again.
Always check grounds first:banghead:
Thanks for the help:thumbup:


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## c3k (May 1, 2006)

MexicanPsycho said:


> Fixed! Negative battery terminal was loose, tightened it down and started right up again.
> Always check grounds first:banghead:
> Thanks for the help


Glad to hear it was an easy fix! 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

mateok said:


> You can disassemble the entire thing. Once the screws are removed you'll need to work the clips free. There's no needs to take the stalks apart, though, and the cruise/MFA end caps are glued, so destruction will ensue.
> 
> All the stuff that fails is in the circular part. Pay close attention and carefully separate the halves. There's some small bits that'll make a run for it if you're careless.
> 
> ...


Thanks, this was exactly what how it worked. It was easier than I first thought.

it was simply just in need of good cleaning and new grease. Now the stalks work like new. :thumbup:


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## speedball30 (Oct 8, 2005)

*Dash install problems*

Hi guys, 
Im trying to reinstall the dash on my 90 corrado. I wasn't there for the removal and I'm having a MOFO of a time getting it back in. Do i need to remove the shift or the steering column???


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## jmhenry8732 (Sep 4, 2014)

*Sai pump*

When I run power straight to the pump it works but, when I try starting the car it doesn't. I've replaced the relay twice now (the updated version off the 100 is now the 644 apparently) and it still doesn't work. Any help would be awesome!


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

jmhenry8732 said:


> When I run power straight to the pump it works but, when I try starting the car it doesn't. I've replaced the relay twice now (the updated version off the 100 is now the 644 apparently) and it still doesn't work. Any help would be awesome!


Poor relays. They always get blamed, but are rarely the problem. A relay won't work unless its instructed to by its control device. In the case of the fuel pump relay, it needs a ground signal from the ECM in order to energize its coil. In turn, the ECM needs a signal from the speed sensor. 

Jump the relay to determine the viability of the circuit from the fusebox to the pump. If it runs, then you know the problem is somewhere before the relay. 

Regarding the relay numbering; the control numbers correspond to the wiring diagrams. The Corrado's been frozen in time for a quarter of a century now and VW has moved on. 643, 644, 645 designate the fusebox positions for a relay that's designated multipurpose. 

E.g. Here's a diagram for a Golf. I know fuse panel B should have a 643 relay installed for the fuel pump (J643). That number means absolutely nothing on a Corrado, though.


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## Mudkicker99 (May 11, 2008)

*Fuel Pump Fuse*

Please tell me what fuse to pull to stop the fuel pump from engaging. A picture would be great for the mechanically challenged such as your friendly neighborhood Mudkicker.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

S18 -20A
Count 5 fuses from the right. Pull the yellow one.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

chrism1 said:


> OK I have been trying to figure out some stuff on my G60 that seems to be a mystery to me. To start i have an ISV re-route, eurosport tubes, RSR outlet, 100% up to date maintenance on the car, green top injectors, eurosport intake, full exhaust and the car runs pretty perfect. The charger has some markings on the outside leading me to believe it has been rebuilt and a cogged charger belt (not the surpentine). I have the stock 78mm pulley on it and what looks like an older OEM FPR which i believe is 3.0 bar. There is a burble at idle which also leads me to believe it is cammed but i never opened it up to see and i never opened the ecu up to check for a chip but there was an old faded out Neuspeed sticker on the rad cover which gives me a clue there is some chip or was at some point.
> 
> Now my mystery is this. In 2nd gear and 3rd gear i can spin the tires and my boost gauge reads consistently between 15-17lbs of boost and the car feels super strong. On a cool day like 45-55 degrees i have hit 19lbs....i want to go with a smaller bbm pulley but i also need to know what supportive mods i should do other than a new FPR, belts, and pulley. The car also tends to run a bit rich initially when started but mostly stoic once it is warmed up. i bought the car used a few years ago and have been updating or replacing just about everything from the previous owner who just slapped on random garbage that i have since replaced with either new or NOS parts. I guess at some point i need to crack open the ECU but wanted to know if anyone had ideas on why the car runs so strong and if its possible that I just peaked an OEM spec car with all the supportive mods....is it possible that it would run such high boost? (its been checked with MAF and a boost gauge)......thoughts?


I have a G60 as well with eurosport tubes, and RSR outlet and stage 1 chip. I have never gotten that boost, even off a freshly rebuilt G-lader. According to the bentley, the max boost with stock pulley is 8.7psi at sea level with a special gauge. The RSR does not increase boost, rather it increases laminar flow so that the charger can put out is max boost with less effort. If you are really getting 15-17 and as high as 19 psi, then your engine already has reinforcements built in or you would have broken many things by now. Have you Dynoed it to see what horsepower you have, or have you timed a 0-60 sprint to see how fast your acceleration is? I would be interested in hearing either f those figures. Have you measured your pulley to confirm that it is a 78mm? Can you tell me where the boost guage vacuum tube is connected? Did you install it or what? if it is using the wrong tube, you might be getting a false reading, or maybe not. I can tell you that I have never seen over 11 psi on my own G60.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

*Cooling system issue*

Here sits my problem, I have a G60 from 1990. About two weeks ago I was headed up the mountains when the temp gauge started climbing up to just below 230. I pulled over, shut it down and checked everything out. The lower radiator hose was hot, not as hot as the upper, but still quite hot. I had enough coolant, and the after run had kicked on. When I got back onto the road, I drove gently, and the engine did cool, although it cooled very slowly. Now that I am back home, I decided to replace the thermo stat and flush the system. The radiator is about 3.5-4 years old, replaced by me. 

Here is what all I replaced so far:
-Thermostat (low temp)
-Fan thermoswitch (low temp)
-Water pump & housing (I didn't know when it had been last done, and I figured I should do it while it was apart.)
-Flush on fairly new radiator (done 3.5-4 years ago)
-Oil w/filter change (Mobil1 full synthetic 15W-50)

It still heats up too hot, and cools very slowly. I don't have any smoke of any kind out the exhaust pipe, and I did a compression check on the cylinders. The results were not good, but not headgasket failure bad. cylinder one is down to 85 psi, but jumps up to 165 with a little oil shot into the cylinder (piston rings eventually) the rest #2:140psi #3115psi & #4 125psi. All the cylinders are down about 10 psi from my last test evenly. So not major changes in two adjacent cylinders. I also have no oil in my coolant, or coolant in my oil. Could the Blue CTS be causing this? 

Possibly unrelated, but the after run doesn't always seem to kick in when I shut it off really hot, and today, for the first time I could not start it. The battery is newish (last 6 months), and when I turned the key over after driving it with only the cooling problem to a nearby store to test, it wouldn't start. No clicking, no slow turn over, I would just turn the key, and lights come on, but nothing happened. Could an electrical fault be causing these problems? 

Thanks for the help, please let me know if you have any questions.


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Here sits my problem, I have a G60 from 1990. About two weeks ago I was headed up the mountains when the temp gauge started climbing up to just below 230. I pulled over, shut it down and checked everything out. The lower radiator hose was hot, not as hot as the upper, but still quite hot. I had enough coolant, and the after run had kicked on. When I got back onto the road, I drove gently, and the engine did cool, although it cooled very slowly. Now that I am back home, I decided to replace the thermo stat and flush the system. The radiator is about 3.5-4 years old, replaced by me.
> 
> Here is what all I replaced so far:
> -Thermostat (low temp)
> ...


230 is no big deal. I certainly wouldn't start throwing parts at the car just for that. You may want to use a thinner oil though, that might help a little.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

a_riot said:


> 230 is no big deal. I certainly wouldn't start throwing parts at the car just for that. You may want to use a thinner oil though, that might help a little.


Thanks for the response. I am only concerned because it has never gone this high before. When it readings suddenly change, even if they aren't disastrous yet, they may indicate a problem that could cause serious issues soon.


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Thanks for the response. I am only concerned because it has never gone this high before. When it readings suddenly change, even if they aren't disastrous yet, they may indicate a problem that could cause serious issues soon.


230 is normal on a hot day with the engine working hard climbing hills and so on. Check/test your cooling system, but it could also be a leaking head gasket. Throwing cooling parts at a car with a leaky head gasket will accomplish nothing but an empty wallet. So I'd recommend figuring out the problem (if indeed there is one) before replacing things.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Here sits my problem, I have a G60 from 1990. About two weeks ago I was headed up the mountains when the temp gauge started climbing up to just below 230. I pulled over, shut it down and checked everything out. The lower radiator hose was hot, not as hot as the upper, but still quite hot. I had enough coolant, and the after run had kicked on. When I got back onto the road, I drove gently, and the engine did cool, although it cooled very slowly. Now that I am back home, I decided to replace the thermo stat and flush the system. The radiator is about 3.5-4 years old, replaced by me.
> 
> Here is what all I replaced so far:
> -Thermostat (low temp)
> ...


Sounds like the fan low speed isn't working. That could be the thermoswitch or the fan itself. Low speed should kick on around 200F and high around 220F. It takes awhile for the high alone to bring it back down. VR's run stupid hot, 195F is the operating temp for a G60. 

The starter not doing squat when it's hot is most likely heat soak. Probably not the starter itself, but its circuit. Do you still have the original cables? I would check the resistance of the starter circuit (hot & cold) and jump the thermoswitch harness to verify both fan speeds.


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## xLeGeNdZx (Aug 15, 2017)

Neuspeed 
65.10.76D installation


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

mateok said:


> Sounds like the fan low speed isn't working. That could be the thermoswitch or the fan itself. Low speed should kick on around 200F and high around 220F. It takes awhile for the high alone to bring it back down. VR's run stupid hot, 195F is the operating temp for a G60.
> 
> The starter not doing squat when it's hot is most likely heat soak. Probably not the starter itself, but its circuit. Do you still have the original cables? I would check the resistance of the starter circuit (hot & cold) and jump the thermoswitch harness to verify both fan speeds.


That is what I thought as well. I replaced the thermoswitch with a low temp one, and I jumped the wiring, verifying both voltage and fan functionality. I check the starter circuit resistance.


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## c3k (May 1, 2006)

Alright so I cannot for the life of me figure out what the thread and pitch is on the rear speaker/shelf studs are. I thought they were M6x1 nuts like the rear seats but I seem to be mistaken. Does anyone know what size nut to use to mount the rear speaker shelves? :beer:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

c3k said:


> Alright so I cannot for the life of me figure out what the thread and pitch is on the rear speaker/shelf studs are. I thought they were M6x1 nuts like the rear seats but I seem to be mistaken. Does anyone know what size nut to use to mount the rear speaker shelves? :beer:


Odd, ETKA shows 5 x 5.4 Speed nut for all of those, but I know for certain that is not correct... Obviously the speakers are, but they show speed nuts for these mounts. 

Anyway, They are smaller than seat nut, so likely M5. I can check.


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## chrism1 (Sep 21, 2014)

ArchAngel4 said:


> I have a G60 as well with eurosport tubes, and RSR outlet and stage 1 chip. I have never gotten that boost, even off a freshly rebuilt G-lader. According to the bentley, the max boost with stock pulley is 8.7psi at sea level with a special gauge. The RSR does not increase boost, rather it increases laminar flow so that the charger can put out is max boost with less effort. If you are really getting 15-17 and as high as 19 psi, then your engine already has reinforcements built in or you would have broken many things by now. Have you Dynoed it to see what horsepower you have, or have you timed a 0-60 sprint to see how fast your acceleration is? I would be interested in hearing either f those figures. Have you measured your pulley to confirm that it is a 78mm? Can you tell me where the boost guage vacuum tube is connected? Did you install it or what? if it is using the wrong tube, you might be getting a false reading, or maybe not. I can tell you that I have never seen over 11 psi on my own G60.


the guage is installed correct and i did measure the pulley to confirm it....i guess i just need to crack the ecu open to check


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

chrism1 said:


> the guage is installed correct and i did measure the pulley to confirm it....i guess i just need to crack the ecu open to check


Indeed. That level of boost just sounds way too high. Maybe you're just fortunate to get a fantastic corrado. What altitude do you live at? I live in Denver, and I have seen no more than 10.5 psi but at sea level I suppose that could change a little.


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## chrism1 (Sep 21, 2014)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Indeed. That level of boost just sounds way too high. Maybe you're just fortunate to get a fantastic corrado. What altitude do you live at? I live in Denver, and I have seen no more than 10.5 psi but at sea level I suppose that could change a little.


im in Jersey near NYC pretty much sea level.....and i agree the boost sounds very high which is why i was wondering if anyone got these types of gains from similar mods........i guess one day i should do a dyno pull just to see


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

a_riot said:


> 230 is no big deal. I certainly wouldn't start throwing parts at the car just for that. You may want to use a thinner oil though, that might help a little.


You need higher viscosity if it's getting hot. Thinner oil will make it even hotter.

I think 15W 50 is about the highest viscosity but back in the caveman days I had problems with Mobile 1 causing my '78 Scirocco oil temperature to go too high. I think it was 10W 40, but the oil temp was way higher than the same viscosity of other brands. My engine started burning the most expensive motor oil on the planet so I needed a quart every few thousand miles. 

I also tried Arco graphite oil in it so that tells you the timeframe. 

-Eric


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> You need higher viscosity if it's getting hot. Thinner oil will make it even hotter.
> 
> I think 15W 50 is about the highest viscosity but back in the caveman days I had problems with Mobile 1 causing my '78 Scirocco oil temperature to go too high. I think it was 10W 40, but the oil temp was way higher than the same viscosity of other brands. My engine started burning the most expensive motor oil on the planet so I needed a quart every few thousand miles.
> 
> ...


I do run 15W-50 in it. I have for several years now. The brand and weight of the oil didn't change. It just suddenly started running hotter than it should.


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## JDCorrado (Sep 27, 2013)

ArchAngel4 said:


> Here sits my problem, I have a G60 from 1990. About two weeks ago I was headed up the mountains when the temp gauge started climbing up to just below 230. I pulled over, shut it down and checked everything out. The lower radiator hose was hot, not as hot as the upper, but still quite hot. I had enough coolant, and the after run had kicked on. When I got back onto the road, I drove gently, and the engine did cool, although it cooled very slowly. Now that I am back home, I decided to replace the thermo stat and flush the system. The radiator is about 3.5-4 years old, replaced by me.
> 
> Here is what all I replaced so far:
> -Thermostat (low temp)
> ...


If your radiator fan isn't kicking on until the temp reaches 230, then you may have lost your low fan speed which is either the radiator fan motor internal resistor is burned out possibly. Not sure if that is the same for G60 but I'd find out if your low fan kicks on next time you get it started. Just idling, mine would climb all the way up to 230 before fans turned on which helped me root cause it down to the T2N burned out connector.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

ArchAngel4 said:


> I do run 15W-50 in it. I have for several years now. The brand and weight of the oil didn't change. It just suddenly started running hotter than it should.


I saw you were using 15W 50 Mobile 1 in it. I just commented that Mobile 1 ran hotter than conventional oil of the same weight in my Scirocco. In your post it sounded like switching to Mobile 1 was a recent change. 



ArchAngel4 said:


> Here is what all I replaced so far:
> -Thermostat (low temp)
> -Fan thermoswitch (low temp)
> -Water pump & housing (I didn't know when it had been last done, and I figured I should do it while it was apart.)
> ...


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

JDCorrado said:


> If your radiator fan isn't kicking on until the temp reaches 230, then you may have lost your low fan speed which is either the radiator fan motor internal resistor is burned out possibly. Not sure if that is the same for G60 but I'd find out if your low fan kicks on next time you get it started. Just idling, mine would climb all the way up to 230 before fans turned on which helped me root cause it down to the T2N burned out connector.


A good thing to check as this happened to me about 3 years ago. I used a multi-meter to confirm voltage and wiring harness integrity then I jumped the points on the thermo-switch connector, and made both speeds turn on. So my low speed does work on both switch and fan. T-stat and water pump are both brand new, and I flushed the radiator and checked it's flow. I had a problem 3 years ago where it started getting hot because the radiator was clogged. so I replaced it then.


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## ArchAngel4 (Mar 15, 2013)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> I saw you were using 15W 50 Mobile 1 in it. I just commented that Mobile 1 ran hotter than conventional oil of the same weight in my Scirocco. In your post it sounded like switching to Mobile 1 was a recent change.


An understandable confusion, but no, I have been using mobil 1 for years now, and always full synthetic and 15W-50. The really confusing thing is that it just started doing this. I started on a trip up the mountains of Colorado. It would heat up to around 230, but then it would cool slowly. Now that I am back in the city, it is still doing it, and I have ruled out all of the factors that it might be.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

ArchAngel4 said:


> An understandable confusion, but no, I have been using mobil 1 for years now, and always full synthetic and 15W-50. The really confusing thing is that it just started doing this. I started on a trip up the mountains of Colorado. It would heat up to around 230, but then it would cool slowly. Now that I am back in the city, it is still doing it, and I have ruled out all of the factors that it might be.



This is probably something you have done, but did you keep the heater on for the coolant flush to make sure it got through the whole system? 

Also, did you drill a hole in the thermostat or buy one with a bypass hole?

Is the coolant level still good after cooling off overnight? 

I wonder if there is a blockage in an auxiliary system like the heater core or the oil cooler. 


I just reread your original post where you asked about a possible electrical problem. My coworker had a Datsun 1300 (I think) and he had weird problems with his coolant temperature gage and it was also overheating easily. The trouble was traced to a broken engine ground strap. The engine was getting its ground through the throttle cable. It was the only path to ground. After the ground strap was replaced, everything returned to normal.

My Scirocco 18V used to be really hard to start if it was hot, like the compression was too high for the starter to crank. I could always push start it by myself though.


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

*Dash/foot air vents control broken*

I recently noticed that I get very little airflow from dash vents and I cannot change the airflow between the foot and dash vents. It seems that the central control flap is inoperable. (I do hear something moving when changing the airflow control lever between foot and dash positions, but there is no change in airflow direction. It mostly blows to the defrost and foot vents when only little airflow goes to the dash vents.) The defrost mode flap seems functional, although I now get a lot of airflow to them as well regardless of the airflow control position. 

Before it got broken I heard some noise inside the dash right after starting the car. I guess that was the moment when something snapped. Likely the vacuum solenoid actuator arm, gear or something like that?

The solenoid part number should be 191820676A but that is likely OK. It is the mechanism between the flap and solenoid that needs repair I believe.

I have googled around a bit and haven't seen a clear picture how that should look like... Is there an arm or a gear? Is it fixable without taking the whole dash apart?


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

matsavol said:


> I recently noticed that I get very little airflow from dash vents and I cannot change the airflow between the foot and dash vents. It seems that the central control flap is inoperable. (I do hear something moving when changing the airflow control lever between foot and dash positions, but there is no change in airflow direction. It mostly blows to the defrost and foot vents when only little airflow goes to the dash vents.) The defrost mode flap seems functional, although I now get a lot of airflow to them as well regardless of the airflow control position.
> 
> Before it got broken I heard some noise inside the dash right after starting the car. I guess that was the moment when something snapped. Likely the vacuum solenoid actuator arm, gear or something like that?
> 
> ...


It's almost certainly that the foam on the dampers has finally disintegrated.
You might be able to get at one of the dampers by removing the center dash bezel and the the Y-pipe inside. Probably need to remove the glovebox as well. That gets you at the front damper that shifts air from the foot vents to the center vents.
The temperature damper and the defrost damper probably need the air box to come out to get at them.

If you're convinced it's the vacuum actuators you can remove the cover above the passenger's foot well to see inside the dash, under the heater box, and look for the actuators moving with the dash slider controls. They are on the bottom of the heater box.


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

*Resolved*



theprf said:


> It's almost certainly that the foam on the dampers has finally disintegrated.
> You might be able to get at one of the dampers by removing the center dash bezel and the the Y-pipe inside. Probably need to remove the glovebox as well. That gets you at the front damper that shifts air from the foot vents to the center vents.
> The temperature damper and the defrost damper probably need the air box to come out to get at them.
> 
> If you're convinced it's the vacuum actuators you can remove the cover above the passenger's foot well to see inside the dash, under the heater box, and look for the actuators moving with the dash slider controls. They are on the bottom of the heater box.


Thanks theprf. I pulled the passenger side footwell cover and got clear view to the vacuum actuator. The lever and gears that go with it seems good. I can see that it is trying to do its job but the mechanics inside the air box is broken or jammed. Possible the gears have jumped a teeth? (It is unclear to me what purpose the gears do.)

I put borescope into the air box through the center dash vents and can see the flap itself is good. When I put the airflow to floor vents the flap closes. When I change the airflow to dash vents the flap opens just a little. I was able to push the flap more open with the borescope and I did get more airflow from dash vents. I could also see the point where the actuator arm connects to the flap and it seems it is broken somehow...

EDIT: After looking some more pictures of the mechanism it became obvious that the flap is operated by the gear mechanism. I was able to see that it must have jumped a teeth or two. When I reset the gears back airflow controls came back to normal. 

The mechanism must have worn out because it jumped teeth again once I tried to change airflow direction with high fan speed. The force needed to move the flap is too much for the tired mechanism...

At least I know now what is the issue.

EDIT2: Fixed it. The "intermediate gear" with the arm that connects to the vacuum actuator was almost torn off from its shaft. Whenever the actuator pulled it pulled the whole gear mechanism away from the second gear. That is when it always jumped teeth. I was able to reattach the gear to the shaft with some JB Weld and it has worked fine ever since. It was easy fix.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

matsavol said:


> I put borescope into the air box through the center dash vents and can see the flap itself is good. When I put the airflow to floor vents the flap closes. When I change the airflow to dash vents the flap opens just a little. I was able to push the flap more open with the borescope and I did get more airflow from dash vents. I could also see the point where the actuator arm connects to the flap and it seems it is broken somehow...



If something inside the air box is broken I think you are stuck with removing the airbox to fix it. The vacuum operated air boxes should be readily available as used parts here on the forum. I believe the same airbox was used in Mk2's with air conditioning as well, possibly B3 Passats.
I've changed heater cores many times, and I plan 12 hours for the job. Should be several how-to's on the forum somewhere.


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## ring outhe gong (Dec 2, 2005)

How do you test the seat belt dual relay? I understand how to test a standard 85/6/7 30 relay.. This thing has me lost.. Thanks

Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk


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## VWNorwood (Aug 14, 2017)

*Turn Signals Not Working / Sunroof not opening*

Hey I have a 91 g60 and almost have it back on the road after sitting for 14 years.

The turn signals are not working now. The switch on the column does click when I move it but no lights inside the cluster or on the outside of the car. Hazards do not work either. I have not replaced any parts at this point and wanted to see if someone could give me a checklist of how to go about figuring out what the real problem is.


Also - sunroof is leaking and I think it has some drain holes in the roof under the sunroof that gets clogged. Mine wont open. Any idea how I can manually open the sunroof?


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

VWNorwood said:


> Hey I have a 91 g60 and almost have it back on the road after sitting for 14 years.
> 
> The turn signals are not working now. The switch on the column does click when I move it but no lights inside the cluster or on the outside of the car. Hazards do not work either. I have not replaced any parts at this point and wanted to see if someone could give me a checklist of how to go about figuring out what the real problem is.
> 
> ...


This thread is great if you have an issue that can be quickly resolved without too many replies. You'd be better to start your own thread in this same section stating your issue like you did here. So we can better respond to your needs include your skill level the tools at your disposal, like do you have a multimeter and know how to use it, do you have a 12v test light, etc. The more info you post the better the response or fix we can guide you through. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

ring outhe gong said:


> How do you test the seat belt dual relay? I understand how to test a standard 85/6/7 30 relay.. This thing has me lost.. Thanks
> 
> Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk


You are referring to the dual-size relay next to the seat belt track motor? You replace it. There's no sensible way to test it.


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## ring outhe gong (Dec 2, 2005)

theprf said:


> You are referring to the dual-size relay next to the seat belt track motor? You replace it. There's no sensible way to test it.


Thanks.. Best I figured was to test draw while the track motors were unhooked and unplug the relays.. Each was drawing about 150 mA, give or take

Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk


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## jbat08 (Aug 28, 2014)

*Rear Brake Caliper Disassemly*

So i have been fighting with a seized rear brake caliper (emergency brake lever would not move) for a week now. I have been able to free the piston and the caged spring that sits behind it, but the armature for the e-brake cable wont come out all the way. any tips/trick to getting that apart? I will post pics shortly. Much appreciated in advance!!


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

jbat08 said:


> So i have been fighting with a seized rear brake caliper (emergency brake lever would not move) for a week now. I have been able to free the piston and the caged spring that sits behind it, but the armature for the e-brake cable wont come out all the way. any tips/trick to getting that apart? I will post pics shortly. Much appreciated in advance!!


As far as I am aware, they are not really repairable, and so most people replace them when they get to that stage. If you can repair them, let us know how you do it, as I have 4 old rear calipers with the same problem collecting dust. From what I understand, the hydraulic part of the caliper still works, but the self adjustment mechanism for the ebrake fails, and locks up the caliper. The caliper may work fine if you no longer use the ebrake, but as soon as you do, it can lock up again, and leave you with a smoking brake pad and possible rear brake fire. The Girling calipers came with a spring to retract the ebrake mechanism, but the Lucas calipers did not, and I think the springs helps with this issue, but often they fall off, and aren't available separately I don't think.


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## jbat08 (Aug 28, 2014)

a_riot said:


> As far as I am aware, they are not really repairable, and so most people replace them when they get to that stage. If you can repair them, let us know how you do it, as I have 4 old rear calipers with the same problem collecting dust. From what I understand, the hydraulic part of the caliper still works, but the self adjustment mechanism for the ebrake fails, and locks up the caliper. The caliper may work fine if you no longer use the ebrake, but as soon as you do, it can lock up again, and leave you with a smoking brake pad and possible rear brake fire. The Girling calipers came with a spring to retract the ebrake mechanism, but the Lucas calipers did not, and I think the springs helps with this issue, but often they fall off, and aren't available separately I don't think.


Thanks for that feedback. sounds like i need to buy a new caliper in the short term so i can take some more dedicated time to figuring out how to get it apart. They provide the seal for the shaft in the rebuild kit so it has to make it out. Thanks for the help!


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

jbat08 said:


> So i have been fighting with a seized rear brake caliper (emergency brake lever would not move) for a week now. I have been able to free the piston and the caged spring that sits behind it, but the armature for the e-brake cable wont come out all the way. any tips/trick to getting that apart? I will post pics shortly. Much appreciated in advance!!


They're absolutely rebuildable, did many when they were still relevant. Keep in mind it's often the cable that's responsible. A MKIV caliper will suffer the same fate if the cable is compromised. 

The spring was part of a tech bulletin. Those are like internal VW memos that owners aren't notified about. We address the issue under warranty when applicable. That's the mysterious line item on your invoice when you came in for something else. 








To your point, you can't remove the e-brake cam until the circlip down at the bottom is removed. It'll tease you by pulling out some, but it won't come out. Problem is, you need a special tool to get that circlip. Regular ones won't reach down far enough and there's a gasket that needs to be picked out of the way first. 

It's a spread clip and the tool is a 90 degree with extra long arms. I've seen them on the Snap-On truck, but you could buy new calipers for what that tool costs.


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## Cecil27 (Jun 17, 2015)

Question: anyone else have a fuel check valve coming off of their ISV (1990 G60)? ive got one that's rattling like hell (intermittent) and im wondering if I even need it, what purpose it might serve etc...any help much appreciated.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

The ISV has nothing to do with fuel, nor is there a check valve attached. Back in the day there were companies selling "check valves" that were inserted in the hose. Literally a cylinder with a ball bearing inside. Basically an ISV reroute with outrageous claims of increased torque. 

If there's a cylinder in there bear in mind the ISV hose is CP now, so remove/cut with care.


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

mateok said:


> They're absolutely rebuildable, did many when they were still relevant. Keep in mind it's often the cable that's responsible. A MKIV caliper will suffer the same fate if the cable is compromised.


So what exactly fails with the ebrake? I haven't taken one apart yet, but if there is a cheap rebuild kit and its doable I'll rebuild the 4 I have and put them back into service. When mine locked up I replaced the calipers, and so it wasn't the cable since it all works fine now. Cables are cheap and replacing the ebrake cable is a regular maintenance item in some areas of the country.


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## Cecil27 (Jun 17, 2015)

mateok said:


> If there's a cylinder in there bear in mind the ISV hose is CP now, so remove/cut with care.


what is CP?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

CP - Classic Parts. It was NLA for over decade, but a new version is available. Looks like a new heat shield. 









https://m.ebay.com/itm/VW-Corrado-S...%3Af8d1c66815e0ac8075e38010fffe1aa5%7Ciid%3A3


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## Cecil27 (Jun 17, 2015)

thanks mateok!:thumbup: im not putting too much faith in this being the cause of my problem but figured it coudnt be doing all that much good in there to begin with. early G60 with plenty of quirks/gremlins...(ie:anyone else windows go up when you shut the car off? dunno wtf would happen if your arm/head were to get caught in between:sly


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## jbat08 (Aug 28, 2014)

mateok said:


> They're absolutely rebuildable, did many when they were still relevant. Keep in mind it's often the cable that's responsible. A MKIV caliper will suffer the same fate if the cable is compromised.
> 
> The spring was part of a tech bulletin. Those are like internal VW memos that owners aren't notified about. We address the issue under warranty when applicable. That's the mysterious line item on your invoice when you came in for something else.
> 
> ...


got all that apart before posting the question. no special tools needed, just some patience. man, did i wanna throw that thing across my garage :banghead: hahahaha

how do i get #7 and 8 out???!! that is what i need now. Thanks!


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

You have skills, man. The pin needs to be removed from the hole. They're usually either rusted in place or stuck with dirt and grime. Blast some WD in there.


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## Mudkicker99 (May 11, 2008)

*Sagging door*

Took her out for the first time in two years. Two years ago drivers door was not closing well so I replaced the striker pin and it fixed the problem. Now again the driver door in not closing well but this time I can feel that the door is sagging just a little bit and not closing flush with the striker pin. Is there a fix for this archived somewhere?


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## Mudkicker99 (May 11, 2008)

Mudkicker99 said:


> Took her out for the first time in two years. Two years ago drivers door was not closing well so I replaced the striker pin and it fixed the problem. Now again the driver door in not closing well but this time I can feel that the door is sagging just a little bit and not closing flush with the striker pin. Is there a fix for this archived somewhere?


Anyone want to give this on a shot?


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## Black86GTI (Jun 4, 2002)

hinges or hinge pins are worn


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Mudkicker99 said:


> Anyone want to give this on a shot?


What you’re describing could be a previous crash. The door jamb where they bolt to usually bends before the hinges themselves. Open the door and check that area compared to the other side. Corrado hinges are well designed/made. I’ve never seen them fail. 

The door pin is also a bad design. Friction is the only thing holding it against the adjustment plate behind it. If the door is misaligned it’ll eventually work it loose no matter how tight the pin is. Door adjustment tools are cheap enough for a one time use purchase.


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

mateok said:


> What you’re describing could be a previous crash. The door jamb where they bolt to usually bends before the hinges themselves. Open the door and check that area compared to the other side. Corrado hinges are well designed/made. I’ve never seen them fail.
> 
> The door pin is also a bad design. Friction is the only thing holding it against the adjustment plate behind it. If the door is misaligned it’ll eventually work it loose no matter how tight the pin is. Door adjustment tools are cheap enough for a one time use purchase.


My high mileage Corrado has a slightly sagging driver's side door. Its taken years to occur, but now drops ever so slightly when I open the door. I've seen some people simply put a jack under the door and bend it up a little. I wouldn't recommend it but I've seen it done.


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## oceansky (Jul 9, 2015)

*Fuel Delivery problem 90' G60*

Hello

I have a 90' Corrado G60 1.8 that has a fuel delivery problem that is intermittent. It floods out some times. it will be running fine and I shut it off then it wont start. the plugs are black. Coolant sensor is new (twice just in case). all other sensors have been swapped for known good ones. any Ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks


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## Staffan (Apr 17, 2017)

mateok said:


> The ISV has nothing to do with fuel, nor is there a check valve attached. Back in the day there were companies selling "check valves" that were inserted in the hose. Literally a cylinder with a ball bearing inside. Basically an ISV reroute with outrageous claims of increased torque.
> 
> If there's a cylinder in there bear in mind the ISV hose is CP now, so remove/cut with care.


Thank you for this info. I was a little bit confused by this valve, wasn´t stock and could not find it anywhere. Do you recommend me to remove it and replace with a hose?


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## Corrado_Shawn (Apr 3, 2011)

currently my biggest issue is that my corrado has trouble finding idle RPMs after letting off the gas. When you turn key, BOOM right to perfect idle. when its cold it finds idle okay most times, but generally has trouble finding idle after coming to a stop and letting off the gas. 

Sometimes it bounces enough to rev up to 2k (rarely) and other times it sputters out and dies. It is completely responsive to added throttle, so if i think it might die i can keep it running by adding throttle. 

All things on the intake side are LOOKING good and no visible signs of leaks or thing unhooked. ISV is secured down properly and could be the issue, but i was wondering if anybody could chime in here and give any additional input as to what i can check or evaluate to remedy the trouble finding idle and the "surging" behavior.

Thanks in advance!
Shawn


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## fastslc (Sep 14, 1999)

On my 1992 VR6 (Stage 1 Kinetic), I've been plagued with the same issue for the past two years until recently.

What I did was disconnected electrically the ISV (but leave it physically connected) and bump the idle stop to ~ 13 degrees. My idle is now around ~ 1000 rpm (I could adjust the plunger a bit) but that's ok with me.

Before the default setting was 8 degrees as measured by Vag-Com.


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## Corrado_Shawn (Apr 3, 2011)

fastslc said:


> On my 1992 VR6 (Stage 1 Kinetic), I've been plagued with the same issue for the past two years until recently.
> 
> What I did was disconnected electrically the ISV (but leave it physically connected) and bump the idle stop to ~ 13 degrees. My idle is now around ~ 1000 rpm (I could adjust the plunger a bit) but that's ok with me.
> 
> Before the default setting was 8 degrees as measured by Vag-Com.



This is interesting. I will try it out maybe tonight or this weekend. Is there a way to do this without measuring by Vag-com?


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

Corrado_Shawn said:


> This is interesting. I will try it out maybe tonight or this weekend. Is there a way to do this without measuring by Vag-com?


Is your car a G60 still? If so it's completely different from the VR cars. If it's a G60 I have heard there are some odd failure modes of the ISV that can lead to idle problems.


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## Corrado_Shawn (Apr 3, 2011)

theprf said:


> Is your car a G60 still? If so it's completely different from the VR cars. If it's a G60 I have heard there are some odd failure modes of the ISV that can lead to idle problems.


it is still a G60, yes. i have been searching some of the symptoms but not all the posts match my symptoms exactly. I am fairly confident that there arent any leaks on the intake side, at least none that are audible under throttle when i apply at the throttle body manually.


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## Corrado_Shawn (Apr 3, 2011)

Crisis averted. Turns out it was a vacuum leak. was not obvious but a leak is a leak. got it fixed and so far i have no more "surging" problems.


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## wauwau (Feb 17, 2018)

*oxygen sensors*

I am replacing the oxygen sensor on my 94 Corrado (carbon deposits on the inside of the tailpipe).
I took one off from a 98 Jetta but the connector is different. Is the colour coding for oxygen sensors the same throughout?
I am thinking of splicing the 4 wires on the engine-side of the connector.


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## Sluh (May 22, 2011)

wauwau said:


> I am replacing the oxygen sensor on my 94 Corrado (carbon deposits on the inside of the tailpipe).
> I took one off from a 98 Jetta but the connector is different. Is the colour coding for oxygen sensors the same throughout?
> I am thinking of splicing the 4 wires on the engine-side of the connector.


Do you know the one off Jetta is good? Used oxygen sensor sounds like used oil filter to me. They aren’t expensive new and you don’t have to hack the wiring. 
If you have same colors on both sides - yes, just match them.


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

wauwau said:


> I am replacing the oxygen sensor on my 94 Corrado (carbon deposits on the inside of the tailpipe).


Have you checked the readings its putting out with VAGCOM? Might just be a vacuum leak or something similar.


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## UrSeRiOuS (Mar 19, 2005)

*92 SLC e-code lens cracked*

Heading out to work this morning I noticed my driver's headlight is cracked. Anyone know of a source to purchase lenses for SLC E-code headlights? I haven't had much luck finding anything. Worse case I guess I'll have to wait until I'm lucky and find someone selling one e-code headlight

:beer:


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## Sluh (May 22, 2011)

UrSeRiOuS said:


> Heading out to work this morning I noticed my driver's headlight is cracked. Anyone know of a source to purchase lenses for SLC E-code headlights? I haven't had much luck finding anything. Worse case I guess I'll have to wait until I'm lucky and find someone selling one e-code headlight
> 
> :beer:


Meanwhile maybe seal the crack somehow (scotch tape?) so moisture doesn’t get in and ruin the reflector.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

UrSeRiOuS said:


> Heading out to work this morning I noticed my driver's headlight is cracked. Anyone know of a source to purchase lenses for SLC E-code headlights? I haven't had much luck finding anything. Worse case I guess I'll have to wait until I'm lucky and find someone selling one e-code headlight
> 
> :beer:


These guys:
https://www.vxtuning.com/shop/vehic...c-e-code-lhd-headlight-light-lenses-pre-order
were advertising repro SLC Ecode lenses.


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## Jonnom (Jul 14, 2017)

In november on a rainy day, my 93 VR shut down on me randomly, with a light hiss and a burning smell. There was a bypass in the harness at the circle connector due to damage from a short during the previous ownership. I replaced crank sensor, cam position sensor, coolant semp sensor, the distributor and ignition coil. I then determined it to most likely be an electrical problem.

The car still does not start. I have further replaced the ecu, and I rewired the circle connector. The car still does not start. The engine seems to be flooding on attempting to start. The spark plugs are soaked in fuel, and the car still sputters right at the beginning of crank, and at the end a little sometimes. It seems the injectors are staying stuck open.

I got an idea earlier today, and tried keying the ignition twice to add pressure to the fuel lines, and then removed the fuel pump fuse. It started firing, albeit sloppily, until it ran out of fuel.

I have two ecu's now, both of which seem to be in perfect shape, which do not change the outcome. Where should I be trying to search next? I know I should check the fuel pressure at the rail, but what could be causing the injectors to stay stuck open?


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## Sluh (May 22, 2011)

Jonnom said:


> The engine seems to be flooding on attempting to start. The spark plugs are soaked in fuel, and the car still sputters right at the beginning of crank, and at the end a little sometimes. It seems the injectors are staying stuck open.
> 
> I got an idea earlier today, and tried keying the ignition twice to add pressure to the fuel lines, and then removed the fuel pump fuse. It started firing, albeit sloppily, until it ran out of fuel.
> 
> I have two ecu's now, both of which seem to be in perfect shape, which do not change the outcome. Where should I be trying to search next? I know I should check the fuel pressure at the rail, but what could be causing the injectors to stay stuck open?


the common of 6 injectors is positive, ECU pulls the individual injector to the ground when needed. check the voltage on injectors. If they aren't driven on constantly but still flooding, they are damaged by being driven on constantly during your failure. they can't be energized for long, or they overheat and melt the internals. You can check for that by actuating them with VAG-COM or by applying external voltage to the connector and listening if the click (don't leave them powered for long, just touch on and off).

Another option is a break in blue coolant temp sensor circuit, ECU thinks it's -50 degree outside and floods the engine with excess fuel.

Take VAG-com and check coolant temp readings and do the injector actuation test (listen if they click).

https://drive.google.com/open?id=140YS5OAr8GUEUYbPO744bsGVJ71W-Zpi


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

What Sluh said - and if that doesn't work, get a replacement engine wiring harness and engine body wiring harness and install them. Probably less than $200 invested and takes less than a day to install. Just match your car: early VR (distributor), late VR (coilpack) are different.


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## Jonnom (Jul 14, 2017)

Sluh said:


> the common of 6 injectors is positive, ECU pulls the individual injector to the ground when needed. check the voltage on injectors. If they aren't driven on constantly but still flooding, they are damaged by being driven on constantly during your failure. they can't be energized for long, or they overheat and melt the internals. You can check for that by actuating them with VAG-COM or by applying external voltage to the connector and listening if the click (don't leave them powered for long, just touch on and off).
> 
> Another option is a break in blue coolant temp sensor circuit, ECU thinks it's -50 degree outside and floods the engine with excess fuel.
> 
> ...


I had the codes read at a dealership when the issue first happened, the coolant temp sensor was reading -47 degrees, and the throttle position sensor also had an open value. I had hoped by rewiring the circle connector this would be repaired. There's a bit more info in a post on my profile to the 12v VR6 forum. 

I was out with a multimeter a little bit ago. If I'm not mistaken, the Brown/Green wire on the coolant temp sensor and throttle position sensor are supposed to be continuous between each other, and also back to the same pin on the circle connector. The TPS Brown/Green is continuous back to the pin on circle connector, but the coolant temp sensor does not give a continuity reading back to the TPS. It is also not continuous back to the same pin as the TPS gives a reading off of, nor does it give a reading off of any pin on the connector.

Would this be an indication there is a break somewhere in the loom?


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## Sluh (May 22, 2011)

Jonnom said:


> I had the codes read at a dealership when the issue first happened, the coolant temp sensor was reading -47 degrees, and the throttle position sensor also had an open value. I had hoped by rewiring the circle connector this would be repaired. There's a bit more info in a post on my profile to the 12v VR6 forum.
> 
> I was out with a multimeter a little bit ago. If I'm not mistaken, the Brown/Green wire on the coolant temp sensor and throttle position sensor are supposed to be continuous between each other, and also back to the same pin on the circle connector. The TPS Brown/Green is continuous back to the pin on circle connector, but the coolant temp sensor does not give a continuity reading back to the TPS. It is also not continuous back to the same pin as the TPS gives a reading off of, nor does it give a reading off of any pin on the connector.
> 
> Would this be an indication there is a break somewhere in the loom?


Download Corrado Bentley somewhere. It got all wiring diagrams. If you skills are true, you should be able to troubleshoot no problem. Corrado engine management wiring is pretty primitive.


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

*Driver side power window not closing with a key*

I'm trying to get everything to work as original in my Corrado and the fact that the convenience closing of driver side window with a key is not working is driving me nuts... 

What is working:
- Both power windows open and close with the buttons normally.
- One touch down works on both windows.
- Convenience closing with key on passenger side window works.
- Windows operate after removing key from ignition for some time. (Haven't tested for how long...) Once a door is opened they stop operating. (This is intentional.)
- No battery drain issues exists.

What I understand from wiring diagrams there is only one signal going to the power window module when using the convenience closing. The power window module closes first the passenger side window and then supposed to continue with the driver side window. For me the process stops after the passenger side window has closed.

When I listen to the power window module relays I can hear quick double click when the driver side window tries to close. I hear same double click when I try operate the window from button if the window was already closed. To me this seems to indicate that the power window module thinks the driver window is already closed and stops trying.

The passenger side I never hear the relays double clicking when trying to close the already closed window. I'm not sure if that is normal or not?

To my understanding the power window module measures the motor current and once it detects current increases due to motor gets stuck it knows it has reached the maximum open or closed position. It seems to me that the driver side window motor uses more current and causes the control module to think it has reached the top? (But it does operate flawlessly when operated from the button? )

I'm thinking of taking the window control module apart but I doubt I see anything wrong with it?

Any ideas to look at? Or leave it alone and be happy that it (almost) works perfectly?


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

matsavol said:


> I'm trying to get everything to work as original in my Corrado and the fact that the convenience closing of driver side window with a key is not working is driving me nuts...
> 
> What is working:
> - Both power windows open and close with the buttons normally.
> ...


Does the sunroof work with the key?

Do you have one of those VW accessory keyless locking and unlocking modules with remote? 

After I put one in my Corrado, the convenience features didn't want to work all the time. It was pretty intermittent but I left it because remote unlocking was a tiny bit more convenient than the "all windows and sunroof open and close with the key" feature. 

A previous owner may have installed one and didn't include the remote when he sold it. As I recall, the accessory remote module plugs into the alarm module behind the instrument cluster. 

-Eric


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## Sluh (May 22, 2011)

Wow, I did not know there is such a function on the Corrado… will check on mine 

Did not look on the diagrams yet, but if convenience closing uses separate relay from normal operation, it might be the problem.


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Does the sunroof work with the key?


No? This is 92 and I thought this feature came with the 93 model?



53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Do you have one of those VW accessory keyless locking and unlocking modules with remote?
> 
> After I put one in my Corrado, the convenience features didn't want to work all the time. It was pretty intermittent but I left it because remote unlocking was a tiny bit more convenient than the "all windows and sunroof open and close with the key" feature.
> 
> ...


Good point. I did replace my alarm module with the "VW white box" keyless entry and alarm box. I have had it for some time and I do not remember if I ever tried the convenience closing after putting it on...

And there is no convenience windows opening, just closing only?


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

matsavol said:


> No? This is 92 and I thought this feature came with the 93 model?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


My C in storage is a '93 with updated interior and coil pack. I don't know about earlier Corrados but thought that feature was on all Corrados. I seem to remember a VW salesman showing me the feature. I checked them out when Corrados first came out and when the VR6 came out. 

Before I added the VW accessory remote locking and unlocking module, I could use my key to open all windows and the sunroof (you have to leave the key turned longer to get everything opened). 

It would also close everything. You could also tilt the sunroof with the key. I think that happened if you kept the key turned after the sunroof was closed.


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> My C in storage is a '93 with updated interior and coil pack. I don't know about earlier Corrados but thought that feature was on all Corrados. I seem to remember a VW salesman showing me the feature. I checked them out when Corrados first came out and when the VR6 came out.
> 
> Before I added the VW accessory remote locking and unlocking module, I could use my key to open all windows and the sunroof (you have to leave the key turned longer to get everything opened).
> 
> It would also close everything. You could also tilt the sunroof with the key. I think that happened if you kept the key turned after the sunroof was closed.


The 93 sunroof is very different from 92. In Bentley wiring diagram pages 288 (92) and 290 (93) you can see the difference. (93 added sunroof control module with extra wire going to power window control module.) 

On my Corrado I never had the convenience window opening working, even with the original alarm box.

EDIT: I read the Corrado owners manual and it only says about closing the windows with a key.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

I have a 92 and several 93 (with updated interior).
92 closes only the windows, passenger then driver's.
93 closes the windows, passenger then driver's, while closing the sunroof at the same time.
There is no windows open with key function on any stock Corrado, I had an aftermarket alarm at one time that added the window open feature.
I have a white box Mk3 remote module in one of my 93's and the auto close function works correctly all the time.

The window module senses the current draw of the window motor. When the window is all the way up (or all the way down) the motor can't run any longer, and the current increases. The window module senses this and stops rolling up the passenger's window and starts with the driver's. 
I would suspect that your driver's window is more difficult to move, and the higher current needed is tricking the window module into thinking the window's up all the way. Perhaps disassembling the door and cleaning & lubing the mechanism would help. It's also possible there is a buildup of carbon dust inside the window motor (same thing happens with the spoiler motor).


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

*Driver side power window not closing with key - SOLVED*

I figured out what is the problem... 

It is the passenger side window motor current doesn't get high enough when it reaches the top/bottom. (That explains hearing the single relay click instead of double click when trying to close the already closed window.) Because of this the window control module doesn't detect the passenger window had closed and doesn't start to close the driver side window.

Once I put a battery charger to help keep the battery voltage up both windows close now with the key. My battery is getting old (3+ years) and won't supply enough voltage/current for the window control module to operate properly. 

Consider that as an undocumented Corrado diagnostic feature: Early warning system to detect weak battery... :what:


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

matsavol said:


> I figured out what is the problem...
> 
> It is the passenger side window motor current doesn't get high enough when it reaches the top/bottom. (That explains hearing the single relay click instead of double click when trying to close the already closed window.) Because of this the window control module doesn't detect the passenger window had closed and doesn't start to close the driver side window.
> 
> ...


Guess what: My battery died today! After jumping it and driving for ~20 minutes it did not start again after letting it sit for 30 minutes. I picked up Group T5 (other names 47 and H5) battery from Walmart. (Walmart don't carry Group 42, Group 96R was out of stock... so ended up with T5 size that fits fine.)

I tested the convenience windows closing with new battery and it works now...


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## Jonnom (Jul 14, 2017)

Sorry to be blowing up this thread with questions, but as it turns out, I'm stupid. 
I have no gas getting to cylinders 1, 3, and 5. 
I'm perplexed, because the wiring diagram shows that they are wired up separately, and I'm not sure what would cause only 3 to not pulse at the injector.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

Jonnom said:


> Sorry to be blowing up this thread with questions, but as it turns out, I'm stupid.
> I have no gas getting to cylinders 1, 3, and 5.
> I'm perplexed, because the wiring diagram shows that they are wired up separately, and I'm not sure what would cause only 3 to not pulse at the injector.


If that's the case the only possibilities would be the ECU, the ECU connector, the round connector on the engine, or the wiring. I'd start by checking the ECU connector and the round connector and look for worn/bare/cracked wiring.


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## Jonnom (Jul 14, 2017)

theprf said:


> Jonnom said:
> 
> 
> > Sorry to be blowing up this thread with questions, but as it turns out, I'm stupid.
> ...


This search started with seeing that the front 3 plugs were covered in gas, and the back 3 were bone dry.

So I took the fuel rail off to check power to the injectors and whether or not they were actually firing. The injectors are indeed pulsing gas, there is proper fuel pressure to the rail, and and the spark plug does get spark. However, when I removed the intake manifold, there were pools of gas in the intake. 

This made me think the engine was off of timing, but I took the valve cover off and all seems to be in order. 

This is becoming endlessly frustrating, and the car has been non-running for almost the same amount of time it was driving in my ownership now.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

Are you absolutely certain valve timing is OK?

If you are certain, and you tested the injectors and they all flow fuel, the only real choice is that the "dry" plugs are firing and the "wet" ones are not.

Coil pack or distributor? I would check that the plug wires go to the correct places. The coil pack is labeled.


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## Sluh (May 22, 2011)

If you have gas in the intake, that means one bank is off on valve timing. Otherwise it would go in the exhaust


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Compression test will tell you a lot.


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## Jonnom (Jul 14, 2017)

theprf said:


> Are you absolutely certain valve timing is OK?
> 
> If you are certain, and you tested the injectors and they all flow fuel, the only real choice is that the "dry" plugs are firing and the "wet" ones are not.
> 
> Coil pack or distributor? I would check that the plug wires go to the correct places. The coil pack is labeled.


98% sure. The cam markings were in the correct places. I know there’s another piece that goes into the timing though. It’s a distributor vr6, and i’ve made sure the plug wires are correct. 
I’ve gotten spark for sure off of both cylinder 1, and 2. i’ll test the other four


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## Mchitsa (Jun 19, 2018)

So the other day I tilted my mk6 sunroof while driving now it will not close & the fuse immidiately blows up when I place it in the slot , I just need to know if there’s a way to manually close for now until I have money to get it checked out it rains heavy in Texas . Thanks in advance !


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## Sluh (May 22, 2011)

Mchitsa said:


> So the other day I tilted my mk6 sunroof while driving now it will not close & the fuse immidiately blows up when I place it in the slot , I just need to know if there’s a way to manually close for now until I have money to get it checked out it rains heavy in Texas . Thanks in advance !


Yes, pull the dome light/roof knobs plate off, there would be an emergency Allen key crank handle clipped to the roof motor assy. Put it in the hole on the motor assy and crank it manually.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Jonnom said:


> 98% sure. The cam markings were in the correct places. I know there’s another piece that goes into the timing though. It’s a distributor vr6, and i’ve made sure the plug wires are correct.
> I’ve gotten spark for sure off of both cylinder 1, and 2. i’ll test the other four


Do you have the rotation right? The distributer should have an arrow pointing which way it rotates.

Also make sure #1 wire is in the #1 slot. Make sure you check the Bentley for the spark plug numbering also. 

I got the direction on my distributer wrong once and got my ignition wires off by one position more than once. I have also gotten the spark plug locations wrong. Now I just carry the manual so I can double check everything if I go pulling ignition wires for any reason. It sucks if you put brand new spark plugs in and new wires on and the car won't start.


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## Mchitsa (Jun 19, 2018)

Sluh said:


> Mchitsa said:
> 
> 
> > So the other day I tilted my mk6 sunroof while driving now it will not close & the fuse immidiately blows up when I place it in the slot , I just need to know if there’s a way to manually close for now until I have money to get it checked out it rains heavy in Texas . Thanks in advance !
> ...


 Thank you!


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## pdcm (Mar 29, 2000)

I hate having to ask, I usually like to just search until I've found my answer, but I'm having trouble. I've got my first G60 (1990), and the steering rack is gushing fluid from the driver's side, under the boot. So my question is, does anyone know if there are other racks from the VW parts bin that essentially drop right in? I'd like to get a replacement, then pull the old one, and have it rebuilt as a spare. 

Pic for clicks?


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

Jonnom said:


> 98% sure. The cam markings were in the correct places. I know there’s another piece that goes into the timing though. It’s a distributor vr6, and i’ve made sure the plug wires are correct.
> I’ve gotten spark for sure off of both cylinder 1, and 2. i’ll test the other four


It kind of sounds like you may have a bad dizzy hall sender. They usually will set a code, but in certain circumstances, I can see how it wouldn't. You can unplug the hall sender connector and see what happens. It will go into a default map I believe, but might be elucidating. Typically unplugging it will reduce power and mileage but otherwise the engine will run fine.

You may also have a couple of different things going on, that is confusing the issue, like bad wiring and a bad sensor, or a bad ECM. 

Even if the cam timing was a bit off, like say a tooth it would still run, just poorly. If it was off enough to not run at all, I would think you'd have piston/valve collisions of some kind.


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

pdcm said:


> I hate having to ask, I usually like to just search until I've found my answer, but I'm having trouble. I've got my first G60 (1990), and the steering rack is gushing fluid from the driver's side, under the boot. So my question is, does anyone know if there are other racks from the VW parts bin that essentially drop right in? I'd like to get a replacement, then pull the old one, and have it rebuilt as a spare.
> 
> Pic for clicks?


The G60 rack has the dreaded 535 part number prefix, meaning it only appeared on Corrados. There may be a Passat rack that could be made to work, but might require some modifications. The Passat rack from that era looks similar but has a different part number (357 422 061 J). Where you might run into issues is the number of splines on the gear and the length of the associated tie-rods. If you are going to rebuild it anyway, there are aftermarket racks that you could install until you rebuild it.


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## Jonnom (Jul 14, 2017)

a_riot said:


> It kind of sounds like you may have a bad dizzy hall sender. They usually will set a code, but in certain circumstances, I can see how it wouldn't. You can unplug the hall sender connector and see what happens. It will go into a default map I believe, but might be elucidating. Typically unplugging it will reduce power and mileage but otherwise the engine will run fine.
> 
> You may also have a couple of different things going on, that is confusing the issue, like bad wiring and a bad sensor, or a bad ECM.
> 
> Even if the cam timing was a bit off, like say a tooth it would still run, just poorly. If it was off enough to not run at all, I would think you'd have piston/valve collisions of some kind.


Could I pm you?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

Jonnom said:


> Could I pm you?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Better to leave it here, so other's can benefit once you figure it all out. I'm sure it won't be the last time someone has this issue with a VR6.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Get a rebuilt rack from http://rackdoctor.net

I paid $230 shipped for a lifetime warranty on a mk3 2L rack. 

I sent them my G60 and vr6 core.


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## pdcm (Mar 29, 2000)

Thanks for the quick replies!



a_riot said:


> The G60 rack has the dreaded 535 part number prefix, meaning it only appeared on Corrados. There may be a Passat rack that could be made to work, but might require some modifications. The Passat rack from that era looks similar but has a different part number (357 422 061 J). Where you might run into issues is the number of splines on the gear and the length of the associated tie-rods. If you are going to rebuild it anyway, there are aftermarket racks that you could install until you rebuild it.


I guess I should have expected that it wouldn't be that simple :banghead:




G60ING said:


> Get a rebuilt rack from http://rackdoctor.net
> I paid $230 shipped for a lifetime warranty on a mk3 2L rack.
> I sent them my G60 and vr6 core.


That's almost half of what I paid for the car  - At least getting the shifter sorted went pretty well. :thumbup:


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## Sluh (May 22, 2011)

Maybe rebuild it yourself, if you’re on the budget, not sure if there are kits available. 
Yep, Corrado is not budget friendly car if you not willing to learn fabricobbling, restoring, rebuilding parts. 

230$ is a fair price for any rack, doesn’t matter, how much you have paid for the car. Would car come free, you would not expect free parts.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

pdcm said:


> That's almost half of what I paid for the car  - At least getting the shifter sorted went pretty well. :thumbup:



When I bought a set of tires for my Ford daily driver, they cost more than I paid for the whole car.


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## pdcm (Mar 29, 2000)

Looking for ideas of how to handle this situation removing stuck/spinning/broken front bumper bolts:

*Problem description: *
So 2 of the 4 front bumper bolts seem to be stripped - one on each side, of course. It doesn't seem to be the captive/welded nut on the bumper itself, I can kind of get some fingers in there from underneath and it doesn't feel like the nut is spinning. One of the bolts came out and the threads were not quite stripped, but close. It feels like the threads actually sheared off inside the bolt, so they're just turning around and around and around in there.

*Option 1: *
Right now, the only thing I can think of is to cut through the front of the bumper skin and see if I can get through that way to try to slice off the top of the bolt and just pull the rest out from the bottom? For reference, it's not a stock bumper skin, it's some fiberglass thing that I'm trying to replace with the stock bumper skin.

*Option 2:*
The other thing might be to drill the damn things out from the bottom - I've done this before when I had one shear off on the other car, and it was not at all enjoyable, so I'd rather find some other solution before resorting to drilling out 2 of the damn things.

*Anyone have any other ideas?*


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## Sluh (May 22, 2011)

Take a dremel with cut off wheel and cut the bolt head off?


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

Which bumper bolts???  The ones under the car that take a 17mm and hold the front motor mount on? Or the ones that hold the triangular mounts to the bumper beam?


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## pdcm (Mar 29, 2000)

theprf said:


> Which bumper bolts???  The ones under the car that take a 17mm and hold the front motor mount on? Or the ones that hold the triangular mounts to the bumper beam?


It's 2 of the 4 long ones that hold the bumper beam on - the forward pair, actually (on both sides of the car, the rear two bolts came out). I can kind of reach in a bit and feel that the captive/welded nut on the bumper-beam arms that slip into the frame rails doesn't seem to be spinning.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Can you get under the head of the bolts with a screwdriver/pry bar? You really need to get some force going to remove the bolts from the stripped holes. Then you need to have the nuts replaced on the brackets, its easy just weld on new nuts.

Maybe pull on the heads with vise grips and twist at the same time.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

Those bolts are so long that grinding the heads off won't help.
I am thoroughly confused as to how they could come to be in that condition: spinning but not removable - if the weld nuts are in place.

If, in fact they are spinning but not unscrewing with the weld nuts in place. you should be able to turn them with your wrench and pry down on the motor mount. There is some compression in the bushings that will let you pry the motor mount down and the bolts out, perhaps 1/16" or 1/8". Once the bolts are out that far you can use a screwdriver or prybar under the bolt head while turning to get them out further.

I really suspect that the weld nuts are turning. Do you have access to a borescope to look inside? I don't think that a mirror will work.


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## pdcm (Mar 29, 2000)

G60ING said:


> Can you get under the head of the bolts with a screwdriver/pry bar? You really need to get some force going to remove the bolts from the stripped holes. Then you need to have the nuts replaced on the brackets, its easy just weld on new nuts.
> 
> Maybe pull on the heads with vise grips and twist at the same time.


I'll give this a try first, and see how it goes. I was thinking about doing this after trying to cut off the top of the bolt sticking out over the nut, but I should try before attempting to cut an access hole. :thumbup:




theprf said:


> Those bolts are so long that grinding the heads off won't help.
> I am thoroughly confused as to how they could come to be in that condition: spinning but not removable - if the weld nuts are in place.
> 
> If, in fact they are spinning but not unscrewing with the weld nuts in place. you should be able to turn them with your wrench and pry down on the motor mount. There is some compression in the bushings that will let you pry the motor mount down and the bolts out, perhaps 1/16" or 1/8". Once the bolts are out that far you can use a screwdriver or prybar under the bolt head while turning to get them out further.
> ...


No borescope, but I'm not in a hurry and it looks like there are lots of cheap USB endoscopes available these days, so thanks for giving me that idea 

It could be that the weld nuts have sheared off and I'm feeling something else, but it really feels like the top of the bolt is spinning and the square nut is not moving when I get the tip of my finger in there.

I'm guessing when the new bumper was put on the bolts were over-torqued or something, and they were probably already rusted and worn like the other two. The rear was missing one bolt entirely, so I suspect some of the previous owners may not have been as diligent as possible.


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## Sluh (May 22, 2011)

Or someone just used the impact when put them in and stripped.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Yea, as Frank mentioned try to get a Flat blade screw driver under the head of the bolt to pry down and the the bolt started back into the nut.

Based on what you describe, it sure sounds like the threads were just stripped due to over tightening, and since they are a but longer than the nut, there are threads on top.

If you can't get anything under the head of the bolt, then have someone lift up on that side of the bumper while you try to get the bolt started back on the threads.

Those square welded nuts are not of strength of a regular hardened nut.

If that fails, then I would either drill out the head (as you have done before) or grind the head off as mentioned.

A good Cobalt drill bit will go right through that bolt.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

pdcm said:


> No borescope, but I'm not in a hurry and it looks like there are lots of cheap USB endoscopes available these days, so thanks for giving me that idea


I bought my borescope at Sears for around $100.00. It's a Craftsman so if you don't have a Sears, you might be able to find it at Lowe's or other store. Harbor Freight prolly has a cheaper version. They are kind of tricky to work with but are handy. I try to sight in on something I can see to get the display the right way round so I'm not bass-ackwards when I try wrenching on something. 

The Craftsman comes with some attachments for the tip. One is a magnet so you can see a bolt or screw you drop and hopefully grab it at the same time.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

You could get a small pry bar to pry on the head while someone else turns the wrench. 

The Dasco Pro Lil' Pro Bar might work. You can use the nail slot to center it on the bolt. You could also modify it by using a drill bit to round out the nail slot.

It's a little small, but should be able to fit in there and provide pryage. The next size up (Ultra Bar II) might work better or may be too large.

I think I bought mine at Home Depot.

http://www.dascopro.com/bars


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## denongt (Jun 20, 2009)

Strictlyapathy said:


> Thanks man, this post was a bullseye. I was probably searching for the wrong keywords when looking around because these two posts didn't come up. I guess I'll go with a VR support in prep for VR lights and a VR grill. That flush looks good.


 is the 535805591C is VR6 will work on g60 car ???


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

denongt said:


> is the 535805591C is VR6 will work on g60 car ???


The short answer is YES.

This will be more information than you asked for but...

I believe the "C" version in teh part number is the universal one which has the mounts for both G60 and Vr6 (and Later 4cyl Grill) as well as top slots for all radiators. You see in that picture. Regardless, you can make any "Front Lock Carrier" (i.e. "upper radiator support") work fine on a G60/4cyl, but you can not use a G60 on a VR6 (due to the radiator angle).

The only things that need to be modified if you are using the Earlier Vr6 style upper Rad support ("B" version) on a G60 is the oval holes for the G60 Stock Grill. If using the VR grill, then no prob. Also, depending on what Rad you are using, you "may" have to make a slot for the Passenger side top Rad bracket (the little L shaped bracket that bolts to the rubber isolator mount in the upper Rad support.

After 1993, all/most Corrados got the External Facelift (i.e. the 2.0L 4cyl and likely other models in various countries, depending). US never got a "face lifted" G60 Corrado, but the replacement Upper Rad Supports were universal ("C" version) after 1993.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Also, to note, the Headlights can be interchanged and make no difference other than G60 lights sit 1.5" back further toward the Radiator due to the lense/bezel width.

Vr6 Lights on a G60 WITH the early 7 bar G60 Grill look funny as does early 4cyl lights on a Vr6.

Many threads on this topic with pictures, including one I created.


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## VWpassat07-3.2 (Aug 24, 2018)

2007 VW Passat 3.2L 4Motion B6

Confident working on cars new to Euro cars

So my Passat started struggling under acceleration like chugging and when I got home, I noticed a loud whistle. I did some research and found out about the PCV diaphragm inside the valve cover being a common problem so I went checked and noticed it was blowing air through that little hole so I took it all apart HUGE job by the way, and replaced it and put it all back together. Started her up and found that its still having the same issue whistling and a lot of air pressure that releases when removing the oil cap, but then idles rough. BUT theres nothing coming from that little hole anymore. 

So I'm very stuck and can't find any vac diagrams online I just want to know what else could be causing excess pressure inside the engine. Like if there is another valve somewhere leading off the back of the inlet, is it possible for something in the EGR system that could be causing this. There also seems to be a lot of deposit build up on the inlet valves, is there a way to clean these before putting it all back together a second time?


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## Sluh (May 22, 2011)

VWpassat07-3.2 said:


> 2007 VW Passat 3.2L 4Motion B6


Wrong place to ask.


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## gelbg60 (Sep 30, 2018)

*Hey guys*

Hey, Im new to the corrado g60 and was wondering if anyone could list out some of belts and pulleys I will need to purchase to get her moving? :beer:


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

Doing a turbo conversion on the G60 and have a few question on 2 topics.
I will fit a Forge 008p resirculation valve and have a few question regarding this;

1)
It has a vacuum port on top. To where do i connect the vacuum hose ?

2)
Where on the IC tubes should I put the resirculation valve ? As close to the TB as possible ?
It would be so nice to mount this b e f o r e IC because of close to intake pipe. 
Feel free to educate me further !

I will also install an electronic boost controller (MAC, 2 port). Running MS stand alone with TPS on TB. Turbo has integrated WG.
I just cut the vacuum line on turbo in two and put the valve in between ?
Feel free to educate me further !


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## sg.giffin (Jul 25, 2009)

Difference between front shock towers from year to year and model to model?

I've got a 91g60 to vr6 conversion and a 93vr6 and the mounting holes for the upper sway bar are different.

Anyone else who can confirm?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

The wheel housing is the same part on every Corrado. The welded studs are in different locations based on model, ABS, etc., but the towers are the same. VR6 strut mounts wouldn’t fit in a G60 otherwise. 

The Corrado never came with a strut tower brace, so not sure what mounting holes you’re talking about. Mine has mounting holes because I drilled them.


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## sg.giffin (Jul 25, 2009)

mateok said:


> The wheel housing is the same part on every Corrado. The welded studs are in different locations based on model, ABS, etc., but the towers are the same. VR6 strut mounts wouldn’t fit in a G60 otherwise.
> 
> The Corrado never came with a strut tower brace, so not sure what mounting holes you’re talking about. Mine has mounting holes because I drilled them.


Interesting, I got the car with the upper sway bar so until I got the second I assumed that there was a spot for them.

Strut mounts aren't the same, so shocks are different?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Only the towers are the same. The front suspension is much beefier on a VR6 due to the heavier engine. Stronger springs, shocks and the mounts are different. 

A G60 used the MK2 design and the VR a MK3. Totally different, but VR mounts used on a G60 is a sweet upgrade. It’s difficult to find the early 92 spring hats needed to make it work on a G60 now. GAP used to sell a kit back in the day. 

The bearings are also serviceable on a VR, whereas a G60 required a whole new mount because they’re built in. If you still have factory springs the four colored dots on them (which they still use to this day) will be different between your two cars.


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## Neg86 (Jul 15, 2019)

Hey Guys, just joined after lurking for a little while. I just picked up a 1993 Corrado 12v VR6 with an automatic trans. When I got it the tranny pan gasket was nearly blown and there was fluid everywhere but it would hold enough in it to get me home. Long story short I picked up a new pan and gasket and repaired it so there were no leaks any longer. I filled it up to the proper level checking the dipstick along the way. I went out for a test drive for about 10 minutes and everything felt good, suddenly the trans wouldn’t shift out of 2nd gear and smoke started pouring out the rear. Thank god I was just about home so I pulled into my driveway and got out to see a fluid trail which appeared to be tranny fluid. Anyway after further inspection the fluid is just dripping out the bottom of the case right where the trans meets the motor, i believe the torque converter is right there. Is there supposed to be a cover right there or some sort of gasket? There are a few threaded bolt holes as well. I’ll try to post pics soon, thanks in advance for the help


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## MexicanPsycho (Apr 10, 2004)

Neg86 said:


> Hey Guys, just joined after lurking for a little while. I just picked up a 1993 Corrado 12v VR6 with an automatic trans. When I got it the tranny pan gasket was nearly blown and there was fluid everywhere but it would hold enough in it to get me home. Long story short I picked up a new pan and gasket and repaired it so there were no leaks any longer. I filled it up to the proper level checking the dipstick along the way. I went out for a test drive for about 10 minutes and everything felt good, suddenly the trans wouldn’t shift out of 2nd gear and smoke started pouring out the rear. Thank god I was just about home so I pulled into my driveway and got out to see a fluid trail which appeared to be tranny fluid. Anyway after further inspection the fluid is just dripping out the bottom of the case right where the trans meets the motor, i believe the torque converter is right there. Is there supposed to be a cover right there or some sort of gasket? There are a few threaded bolt holes as well. I’ll try to post pics soon, thanks in advance for the help


There is a cover for the torque converter but it should not leak even if it was missing. I had the same issue with my automatic 93 and it turned out to be leaking from the rear diff cover gasket. You should also check for fluid in there by removing the speed sensor and using it as a dipstick. If it's getting stuck in third gear try cleaning the round 7 pin connector on top of the trans, that solved my issue.


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## Neg86 (Jul 15, 2019)

MexicanPsycho said:


> Neg86 said:
> 
> 
> > Hey Guys, just joined after lurking for a little while. I just picked up a 1993 Corrado 12v VR6 with an automatic trans. When I got it the tranny pan gasket was nearly blown and there was fluid everywhere but it would hold enough in it to get me home. Long story short I picked up a new pan and gasket and repaired it so there were no leaks any longer. I filled it up to the proper level checking the dipstick along the way. I went out for a test drive for about 10 minutes and everything felt good, suddenly the trans wouldn’t shift out of 2nd gear and smoke started pouring out the rear. Thank god I was just about home so I pulled into my driveway and got out to see a fluid trail which appeared to be tranny fluid. Anyway after further inspection the fluid is just dripping out the bottom of the case right where the trans meets the motor, i believe the torque converter is right there. Is there supposed to be a cover right there or some sort of gasket? There are a few threaded bolt holes as well. I’ll try to post pics soon, thanks in advance for the help
> ...


Thank you for the reply! I don’t currently have a manual and can’t seem to locate the rear diff cover... is that where the cv shafts hook up? I know for a fact it was tranny fluid, wouldn’t the diff be leaking diff fluid? Would I need to pull the transmission to repair this? Also, is there a breather on the tranny that more than likely needs replacing? The tranny is code: 096 if that makes a difference, thanks again!


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## MexicanPsycho (Apr 10, 2004)

Neg86 said:


> Thank you for the reply! I don’t currently have a manual and can’t seem to locate the rear diff cover... is that where the cv shafts hook up? I know for a fact it was tranny fluid, wouldn’t the diff be leaking diff fluid? Would I need to pull the transmission to repair this? Also, is there a breather on the tranny that more than likely needs replacing? The tranny is code: 096 if that makes a difference, thanks again!


No problem, the diff gasket is at the back of the trans between the cv shafts. Mine had trans fluid in the diff as well so that's what I put in. The breather is next to the speed sensor, it's a small black cap on top of the diff housing.

Looking at the Bentley there's also an atf pump gasket behind the torque converter on the trans side. Maybe that's where yours is leaking from? You probably don't want to hear it but I would recommend pulling the trans and doing all the gaskets and seals at once. Or you could do like me and swap to a 5spd.


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## MexicanPsycho (Apr 10, 2004)

Hi, I'm currently swapping a 93 corrado to a 5spd. Does anyone have any pics of the interlock relay bypass? The corrado club of Canada had a really good write up but it's no longer up. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

I am sure there are many ways do to it and I only did it once, eons ago. 

I vaguely recall just permanently jumping the Lockout switch wires under the console. That is if I truly remember correctly... Would need to look at the Bentley wiring diagrams to be sure otherwise.


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## MexicanPsycho (Apr 10, 2004)

sdezego said:


> I am sure there are many ways do to it and I only did it once, eons ago.
> 
> I vaguely recall just permanently jumping the Lockout switch wires under the console. That is if I truly remember correctly... Would need to look at the Bentley wiring diagrams to be sure otherwise.


Got it to start, spliced a wire from the ignition switch with a spade connector to the black and red pin on the fuse box. Now I'm dealing with the shifter alignment I can't get reverse to engage:banghead:


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## Das.Rado (Dec 29, 2008)

*Picture Request*

Anyone interested in taking a picture of all their carpet fasteners. Im slowly putting my project car back together and although a lot of my nuts, bolts, screws, etc are bagged, theyre not labeled by quadrant. If anyone wants to help me out, it would be incredibly helpful.

Thanks!


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Das.Rado said:


> Anyone interested in taking a picture of all their carpet fasteners. Im slowly putting my project car back together and although a lot of my nuts, bolts, screws, etc are bagged, theyre not labeled by quadrant. If anyone wants to help me out, it would be incredibly helpful.
> 
> Thanks!


You might get lucky and see part numbers on yours. Sometimes the larger plastic caps and fasteners have part numbers. If not, you can order new fasteners based on this diagram:

https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/usa/corrado/cor/1993-76/8/863-172000/

There are many fasteners that were used for decades and are still used today. If VW still makes a plastic fastener it might not be available in the same color. Nick in Greece might have it though. 

I print out parts diagrams or Bentley manual pages. I put the page in a gallon zip lock bag and put individual fasteners in smaller bags with the reference number (from the page) on the bag so I know where that fastener goes. Even if I buy new fasteners, I need those bags to be sure they go back in the correct place. Many fasteners are the same type but are longer or slightly different.


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## macgoogles177 (Aug 13, 2019)

*will these wheels fit*

hello everyone. im new to the car scene and was wondering if these wheels would fit my vehicle. The car is a 1992 VW Corrado SLC and is currently bone stock. The wheels im trying to buy are the JNC Wheels JNC004 Platinum Gold Rivets 16x8 5x100/5x114.3 ET25. I do not want to do any kind of modification to fit the wheels. plz help, thanks.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

macgoogles177 said:


> hello everyone. im new to the car scene and was wondering if these wheels would fit my vehicle. The car is a 1992 VW Corrado SLC and is currently bone stock. The wheels im trying to buy are the JNC Wheels JNC004 Platinum Gold Rivets 16x8 5x100/5x114.3 ET25. I do not want to do any kind of modification to fit the wheels. plz help, thanks.


They will fit fine. Try a 215/40/16 tire


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

I have a 1990 G60 and am currently trying to get rid of the slop that I have in first and second gear. All the other gears lock in pretty nicely, but first and second gear have a fair amount of slop. Anything that I can do to help minimize this?


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

*Removing AC pressure switch*

I have a leak in the AC pressure switch. This should come off by unscrewing from the high pressure refrigerant line, but mine seems stuck tight that I'm afraid to break the refrigerant line in process.

How strong the refrigerant line is and much force/torque is safe? Any tips?

Assuming it is stuck for good, do you think it is good idea to try cut the old switch off with dremel?

EDIT: I did get it out. 

I just took a bit more force. I ended up using wise grips on the nut and prevented the J-tap twisting by using wrench between the main line and the J-tap line.

I didn't see O-ring here? I thought this should have had 10.8x1.8 O-ring per Bentley?


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Last thing you want is to be pulling lines out for repair that are no longer made. Start soaking it with a penetrating lube. Obviously No heat as it does have a combustible point that should never be tested.

The bung that the fitting is brazed on to is secure, but should be worked back and forth til free up, not pulled til it fails. Dremel should be last resort.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

matsavol said:


> I just took a bit more force. I ended up using wise grips on the nut and prevented the J-tap twisting by using wrench between the main line and the J-tap line.


I would have used dumb grips but I agree with Pete. 

Next time spray some penetrating oil on whatever is stuck and let it sit a day or at least overnight.


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## prjctrado (Nov 19, 2003)

My steering wheel/column will not lock in place at any height. A long time ago I replaced the steering clamshell for a new one but can't seem to loosen the screws to detach it. Are they Philips #1 or #2 size screws, are they torx screws? I'm afraid I'm gonna strip them out. I've been away from the corrado game for some time now and apparently lost any knowledge I thought I once had.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

I don’t remember using a pen Phillips to take them out, so probably #2. I do remember the audible crack when they finally lost. Something about that plastic likes to grip the screw. You’ll need the biggest screwdriver that’ll fit up the hole to break them free. A ratchet would provide better leverage instead of one hand/shoulder doing all the work.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

prjctrado said:


> My steering wheel/column will not lock in place at any height. A long time ago I replaced the steering clamshell for a new one but can't seem to loosen the screws to detach it. Are they Philips #1 or #2 size screws, are they torx screws? I'm afraid I'm gonna strip them out. I've been away from the corrado game for some time now and apparently lost any knowledge I thought I once had.



It's been about 15 years since I saw them but as I recall it was #2 Phillips screws.

It really depends on what you used when you replaced the clamshell. It will even snap together without screws. I was tempted to leave them out.

Do you have a flashlight?


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

how bad are screwdriver markings on piston faces? 

was doing timing on a pg block and had a too short screw driver down in cylinder hole #1. It got caught in the alternator bracket (alternator removed) and didn't move up with the piston on the upstroke. Looked down the spark plug hole and have a few scratches on piston face - can't say how deep they are. I'm in the midst of a stage 5 silenced lysholm install and I'd really rather not pull the head at this point, because if I do, I may as well go aba block. And if I go aba, I may as well go scientific rabbit intake mani and head. AND if I go ABA block and scientific mani and head I may as well go 16vg60. I can get boroscope pictures tomorrow if needed

Edit for pic:









Assuming I get all shavings out (if any), is piston still good or do I have to get new ones?


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## prjctrado (Nov 19, 2003)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> It's been about 15 years since I saw them but as I recall it was #2 Phillips screws.
> 
> It really depends on what you used when you replaced the clamshell. It will even snap together without screws. I was tempted to leave them out.
> 
> Do you have a flashlight?


 Thanks for the reply. I tried looking at them upside down with my readers and a light but my eyes kinda suck. :laugh: There are 3 screw holes I can see and from what I can tell I think there's only one screw in the middle. Once it's removed, is there a bolt or something else that's loose that attaches to the steering adjustment lever and goes through the column?


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## prjctrado (Nov 19, 2003)

mateok said:


> I don’t remember using a pen Phillips to take them out, so probably #2. I do remember the audible crack when they finally lost. Something about that plastic likes to grip the screw. You’ll need the biggest screwdriver that’ll fit up the hole to break them free. A ratchet would provide better leverage instead of one hand/shoulder doing all the work.


Thanks, I didn't know you guys replied and thought I had notifications turned on. For some reason I think it's a larger Philips as well. I like the ratchet idea, have to give that a try! :thumbup:


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## tex_mel (Nov 14, 2017)

*Trying to start after long storage*

93 VR6, stock and mostly original, I am the original owner with basic mechanical skills and tools. Car was garaged years ago for overheating (fan not staying on), worked on, then sat without being started for awhile, sent it a mechanic who had it running and starting reliably but screwed up other stuff, brought it home and tried to keep up with it and fix their work......long story, it has been at least 3 years since I attempted to start it. I recently changed the oil, fuel filter, new battery, fresh gas, and attempted to start it. Starter cranks and all the dash lights seem to work, but engine won't turn over. The only odd thing I noticed was that the check engine light didn't come on or went off really quickly. I found that the car always started better when I turned the key, waited for the check engine light to go out, and then cranked it, but today there was little or no check engine light. What should I try or troubleshoot next?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

So you have a no start issue? The MIL doesn’t determine if it will start or not, unless it stays on and records a speed sensor (1231), which is a catch-22 because it’ll blink that if it’s not running. 

What do you know about the fuel pump? The time you’re spending waiting for the MIL to go out might have been giving a weak pump time to prime and it finally died. VW Fuel pumps don’t like to sit for years and years. 

Jump the fuel pump relay or have someone turn the key while you put your hand on the pump cover in the back. If it’s coming on then determine how much pressure you’re getting at the rail. The fuel pump has to be ruled out on a Corrado because it’s a well known failure point.


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## tex_mel (Nov 14, 2017)

Yes, cranks but doesn't start.I tried again and confirmed that the brake and ABS lights work properly, but no check engine. Also seem to have power to the radio, volt and oil pressure gauges, and the warning lights below the dash gauges work. But none of the temp/gas/tach needles move. I should at least see a gas level, right? And I noticed that the dome light doesn't come on when the driver's door is open and the seat belt doesn't choke me when I close the door (no I never got around to converting to manual but I have a kit).

Also tried to lock/unlock from the driver's door, thinking that the alarm immobilizer may have not "reset" after the battery replacement. Central locks work but the red light doesn't come on at the driver's door and the alarm didn't go off with the hood open.

And finally I pressed the door switch and it is now stuck fully depressed. Could that be related to not starting? Or, just the culprit with the seatbelt, dome light and alarm? Can that switch be replaced from the door well or do I need to pull the kick panel to get to the harness?

The fuel pump has few running hours, it was replaced by the mechanic the last time I pulled the car out of storage. Car started and ran as well as it ever had when I brought it home. It was the interior damage caused by the shop and the still ailing coolant fan that put the car back in my garage.

My point about the MIL was that it is behaving differently than I have ever seen. I developed the "wait for the light to go out" starting procedure when the original ECU was dying a slow and quirky death. If I simply turned the key to start the car would start and run, for a few seconds. Rather than re-start 3-7 times to go anywhere (was my primary daily driver then), that start procedure kept the car in use while everything else was tried and the ECU ultimately diagnosed. That took so long it became a habit I never broke.

I'm off to dig out my multimeter and jumpers to see if I have power to the pump and relay. Ironically those are packed up because I am emptying the garage so it can be demoed and a new, much bigger one built. Was hoping to be able to at least move this car under its own power during that time.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

IIRC, the tach starts reading ~200rpm, so that should be bouncing while you’re cranking. I’d say a faulty speed sensor, but considering nothing else works, hard to say. 

The dome light could be the switch in the jamb is stuck or fuse 21 is blown. 21 also powers the VSS, so no speedometer without that. I like the auto seatbelts, one less thing for me to do when I get in. You’ll need to remove the quarter trim and check the fuses for the seatbelts. 

The alarm is interesting. If it were faulty it’d cut power and the fuel pump wouldn’t prime. Easily bypassed if you’re not getting fuel at the rail. Also your turn signals would be glowing all eerie like. There’s actually two fuses for the alarm on a 93 back behind the cluster somewhere. 

Do you mean the knob is stuck down? That’s vacuum actuated via the master actuator under the lock. You can get to the rod that connects to the knob by removing the outside handle. The Phillips holding it on is a reverse, so don’t strip it. 

Sounds like a lot of gremlins from neglect to me. Check fuses and spray some WD-40 on everything.


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## tex_mel (Nov 14, 2017)

Is the passenger side seat belt on the same fuse? It operates as it should. Just no movement on the driver side.

The dome light works when switched on, just not with the switch in "door" position.

I should have been more specific, sorry, the plunger on the door switch is stuck. I pulled the door switch today, definitely toast. We'll see what difference a new one makes when it arrives.

I think the plunger for the door lock is working (just no light), but you make me want to watch it closer. Central lock seems to work, I can hear it and the passenger door and gas cap flap locked and unlocked from the driver side door.

Still need to check pump power and relay, but back to my real job until Friday.

Thanks for your help so far.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

prjctrado said:


> Thanks for the reply. I tried looking at them upside down with my readers and a light but my eyes kinda suck. :laugh: There are 3 screw holes I can see and from what I can tell I think there's only one screw in the middle. Once it's removed, is there a bolt or something else that's loose that attaches to the steering adjustment lever and goes through the column?


I can't find pictures or the correct part number. 

This clamshell picture on MK1 Autohaus makes it appear that it is used to hold the lower clamshell on:

http://www.mk1autohaus.com/Corrado-Lower-Steering-Column-Cover_p_7762.html

You could just try a #2 Phillips in the blind. If it works, pick the screws up from the carpet. 

I had thought the center was probably a 6mm Allen Head bolt so you could try some Metric Allen Wrenches also.

If I can't stick my face right up there, I use a borescope to bring the focus closer to my eyes. The bonus with my borescope is that it lights up the scene. 

If you have one of those page magnifiers you could try that.

Good luck.


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

*G60 tensioner bushings*

Not sure where to post this and didn't want to clutter up the main page with this query, but does anyone know where to source the tensioner bushings for the supercharger tensioner stateside? Epmtuned used to make them but their website sends back emails as undeliverable. Bbm started doing their billet tensioner caps again and I noticed that my lower bushing is all messed up and I want to get that fixed before getting it back in the car. Emailed gruvenparts and Paul said he needed about 10 people before they could make that part if I wanted to go that route. Pic for reference borrowed from epmtuned site.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Left and right side motors have their own fuses. 
The interior light and map light (the one that works) use the same power source, but different grounds. Does the interior light come on when right door opens? Do the sun visor (make-up) lights work? The light is solid state on a 93, so process of elimination is needed. 

What door switch did you mean earlier? The one next to the check-strap in the door jamb or the door lock? The dome light won’t come on if the black button stays in, it grounds the circuit when out. 

Remove its screw and pull the whole thing out of the door jamb. It’s stupid simple with only a spring, plunger, and two wires.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

valet said:


> Not sure where to post this and didn't want to clutter up the main page with this query, but does anyone know where to source the tensioner bushings.


The Brit’s have them here. 


https://www.dubforcetuning.net/shop/g60-belt-tensioner-bushes/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## T~Roc (Nov 18, 2015)

petethepug said:


> The Brit’s have them here.
> 
> 
> https://www.dubforcetuning.net/shop/g60-belt-tensioner-bushes/


*Can also still be ordered from Houston TX
Read below:*




Butcher said:


> See for yourself.
> 
> http://www.epmtuned.com/id274.html





valet said:


> Multiple emails come back as undeliverable. Was going to try and order other things too


*http://www.epmtuned.com/id274.html*

Above link is active.
To verify whether still in business I called the Houston number provided.
Spoke to Pete, informed him that you planned on buying "*other things too*" and he said he'd check his emails.
Emails don't give him notifications so he sometimes doesn't check for long stints, but will check today.

The energy he exuded over the phone seemed genuine so hopefully Vortex members reach out to him for purchases.
Thanked him for keeping our Corrado on the road!

Asked him to look under *G60 Engine Forum* and chime in himself, update what he's been doing.


https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthr...r-bushes&p=113945137&viewfull=1#post113945137


----------



## tex_mel (Nov 14, 2017)

tex_mel said:


> Is the passenger side seat belt on the same fuse? It operates as it should. Just no movement on the driver side.
> 
> The dome light works when switched on, just not with the switch in "door" position.
> 
> ...


With the door switch removed, I jumped the wires for "door closed". Opened and closed all the doors and cycled all the locks with the key. Now the alarm arms/disarms based on the driver's door indicator light and the seatbelts travel. But, still cranks and doesn't start. Pulled the pump relay and have 12V on pin 30 with key off and on and ~4V on pin 85 with the key on. With the relay back in, still no noise from the fuel pump. Still no needle gauges on the cluster, no fuel level and tach doesn't bounce when trying to start, and MIL never lights up or flashes. Where to look next?

And just checked the connector at the fuel pump. No power to the pump (larger R/Y wire). Do have ~9V on the signal/sender wires, middle two pins in the connector.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

tex_mel said:


> Pulled the pump relay and have 12V on pin 30 with key off and on and ~4V on pin 85 with the key on.


You shouldn’t see any voltage at 3/85. The ECM sends a ground signal to that and 86 completes the circuit by using power from switched ignition(15). Magnet closes the 87/30 arm, 30-30B jump is made, etc, etc. 

I think you might have a chassis ground issue. That would also explain the funky cluster issues. Have you tried a new ECM relay yet? That’s still on the board for a no start otherwise.


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## tex_mel (Nov 14, 2017)

I could be turned around on the terminal numbers, that footwell and fusebox get smaller the older I get.  For the pump relay (position 12) I meant that I it looks like I have power to trigger the coil with the key switched on and power from the battery with and without the key. I do not have power at the pump connector (R/Y wire) with the relay installed. I do have continuity with low resistance from relay socket 87 to the connector at the pump. Out of the car, the relay has continuity across 85-86 and clicked and has low resistance across 30-87 with power applied to the coil. Seems like I should have fuel pump power, but don't.

Pulled the ECU relay, it has continuity from 30-85 but not on any other combination. Gotta admit I'm confused by how this one is supposed to work and its diagram.

New fuel pump and ECU relays should arrive Thursday, we'll see what happens.

Grounds at the battery were redone with new cables and a hub at the battery neg terminal clamp. What other locations am I looking for?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

tex_mel said:


> Pulled the ECU relay, it has continuity from 30-85 but not on any other combination. Gotta admit I'm confused by how this one is supposed to work and its diagram.


The Motronic ECM sends a ground signal to energize its relay while Digifant uses switched, like a fuel pump relay. 

See how there’s no 86? It loops around instead of going to 15 and uses 30 just before the arm to energize. Pin 1 isn’t used because 31 is straight ground and the ECM wants to dictate when, so a switched ground is used instead. 








You’re not going to see continuity between 85 & 30 unless 30 sees power and 85 is grounded. That’s an invalid static test, anyhow, don’t bother.


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## tex_mel (Nov 14, 2017)

Replaced the fuel pump and ECM relays today. Still won't start and still no power at the pump. Instrument panel is a little better, the tach bounces when I try to start it but still don't have a fuel level. New symptom, buzzing from the dash area with the key on (accessory and start). Felt all the relays in the fusebox and the new 109 is vibrating/buzzing. Lucky enough to get a bad new part? Something else?


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## Jsirrocco (Dec 30, 2019)

Tell ya what I've done, to ask what I need help with...I put a 92 16v in my 92 Corrado...however....now it's time to hook things up and be able to start it.. I've put aas the intake wraps the head billet 16v fuel conversion rail from Bahn Brenner on it...One question...1. What do I do with the cold start valve ??? 2. What do I do with the the 2 (blue&black) elecrical plugs that plugged into the front water outlet on the 1.8 ??? There's no connection on the 2.0for those 2 cooloing plugs.......Sure can use some experienced advise


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Jsirrocco said:


> Tell ya what I've done, to ask what I need help with...I put a 92 16v in my 92 Corrado...however....now it's time to hook things up and be able to start it.. I've put aas the intake wraps the head billet 16v fuel conversion rail from Bahn Brenner on it...One question...1. What do I do with the cold start valve ??? 2. What do I do with the the 2 (blue&black) elecrical plugs that plugged into the front water outlet on the 1.8 ??? There's no connection on the 2.0for those 2 cooloing plugs.......Sure can use some experienced advise


Sounds like you are converting the 16v to Digi. Guessing your 92 was a G60? Anyway, since you are going to EFI, you don;t need the Cold Start Valve as that was needed for CIS.

The Black plug is for the Temp Gauge and the blue is for the ECU. Blue is a must. There is a, inline adapter you can get to run the Blue Sensor, but you can also retrofit the 16v threaded sensors to the Black, blue plugs respectively.

Also, if you do the inline adapter to use the Blue Digi Sensor, you can actually use the Yellow Ringed 2L ABA 8v sensor to replace them both. This sensor is essentially the Blue and Black sensors all in one (thus 4 wires).


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## tex_mel (Nov 14, 2017)

tex_mel said:


> Replaced the fuel pump and ECM relays today. Still won't start and still no power at the pump. Instrument panel is a little better, the tach bounces when I try to start it but still don't have a fuel level. New symptom, buzzing from the dash area with the key on (accessory and start). Felt all the relays in the fusebox and the new 109 is vibrating/buzzing. Lucky enough to get a bad new part? Something else?


Now I know a little more, but still won't start (no power at fuel pump).
I pulled the ECU and checked wiring. There was continuity to B- on several pins but not all that there should be, most importantly those that go through T42. Cleaned and fiddled with the round T42 connector and now I have continuity from T68/10, 56, 7, 1, and 55 to B-. Also have 12V on T68/54. I jumped T68/6 to B- and get 12V at the fuel pump (with the key on) and jumped T68/9 to B- which returned 12V on T68/23. Also verified that the ground wire at the pump had continuity to B-. Convinced myself this means all the wiring/fuses/relays have to be good.

Plugged the original ECU in, no power at the fuel pump with key on.:banghead:
Tried a second ECU, recently purchased as used and verified working, no power at the fuel pump with key on. :banghead:

What else can prevent the ECU from switching the fuel pump relay?


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Fuel pump will only run for ~2sec at key on and not be on until engine rpm is seen. If you sit there with key on engine off the output will do nothing.


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## Mudkicker99 (May 11, 2008)

Side mirrors, are G60, early VR6 and late VR6 all exactly the same? I need a white passenger side. 

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

They are all the same except half are for the right side and half are for the left side and then some have Lhd mirror glass and rhd mirror glass. 

My mirrors are literally a set of F1 mirrors shipped from the UK.


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## tex_mel (Nov 14, 2017)

my 93 vr6 still won't start.

I have replaced driver side door switch, ECU relay, fuel pump relays, crank sensor, and now the fuel pump. 

Have verified power at the fuel pump, comes on briefly with key on and also with key in start. Jumped pin 6 at the ECU harness to B- and verified that the new pump runs.

Have done the diagnostic in the Bentley for the camshaft sensor and the ignition coil, that checked out.

Also found the round engine harness connector not fully seated. Corrected that and verified wiring (ground) from the ECU connector through the round connector. And jumped the ECU relay from the ECU connector to verify it works.

So now, engine cranks but won't start. No gauges on the dash work, but all the indicator lights do. The alarm is temperamental to arm (based on indicator light). I wouldn't have power at the fuel pump if the immobilizer was failed, right?

What would you try next?


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Do you see key switched power to t68/38 as well as t68/23 with the ecu plugged in?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

^ Right, have you checked spark? You’re closing in on a dead ECU or whatever electrical gremlin is affecting the cluster.


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## tex_mel (Nov 14, 2017)

I swapped ECUs again (had done it before diagnosing the dead fuel pump and convinced myself the ECU was good) and it started! 

Coughed, sputtered, backfired, and I had to keep giving it gas to keep it from stalling, but it finally settled down and idled. And all the gauges work.

Started it again today, same rough start and had to give it gas for about a minute, then idled pretty well.

Haven't been letting it run too long as the coolant fan, lack of, is worse than before the mechanic "fixed" it and don't want to overheat. More on that when I know more about what it is and isn't actually working.


New question. Soon after the first start check engine light came on. Blinked the codes and got 4311. Bentley doesn't list it, one internet source says "Secondary Air Injection Pump Relay". Does that sound right? Where is that relay? P/N or relay number to replace it with?


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

If it is sai, its relay 111 in engine bay.


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## thevisualedge (Dec 31, 2003)

Hey there, experts!

Since I've been in quarantine, I've been using the time to get to my long-neglected VR6. I was peeking in the engine bay and found this loose connector. I have no idea what it goes to. Do you guys know?

EDIT: Apologies, I had no idea the pic would be roughly the size of a highway billboard. Calm down, iPhone.


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

thevisualedge said:


> Hey there, experts!
> 
> Since I've been in quarantine, I've been using the time to get to my long-neglected VR6. I was peeking in the engine bay and found this loose connector. I have no idea what it goes to. Do you guys know?
> 
> EDIT: Apologies, I had no idea the pic would be roughly the size of a highway billboard. Calm down, iPhone.


Plugs into the other side of the brake fluid reservoir cap


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## jettag60 (Nov 2, 2005)

ya just look 2" over from your hand in the picture.


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## thevisualedge (Dec 31, 2003)

valet said:


> Plugs into the other side of the brake fluid reservoir cap


Thanks man! I feel thankful, but also like an idiot. 

This is like telling the wife I can't find the milk and she pulls it out of the fridge in front of my face.


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

*VR6 oil filter housing O-ring lifetime?*

Late summer 2015 I replaced the 8-shaped O-ring between the oil filter housing and engine block. Now I noticed the oil filter housing is wet again. Primary suspect is this same seal is leaking again. It sounds a bit early to fail in less than 5 years (about 18k miles)?

Is this what to expect of its lifetime? Any specific O-ring brand that is known for better lifetime?


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

*Window regulator getting stuck...*

My driver side window regulator started occasionally getting stuck in closed position. Over the past months the issue is getting worse over time.

Once I'm able to get it working it works fine for the rest of the day.

It does not seem the typical issue of plastic cable end retaining caps breaking and letting the cable loose. (My passenger side window had that problem which I fixed years ago.)

It doesn't look to be issue with the window control module or switch either: I can hear the relays click and the dome light does dim a little when pressing the window button up or down.

I'm thinking it is the actual motor getting stuck. Looking at the pictures I found online it appears you can remove the motor from the cable gear assembly?

The questions are: Is there something else I might be missing? Is the window regulator motor serviceable?


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## jettag60 (Nov 2, 2005)

if you need new regulators:

https://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=50-54060


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

I have a question. So the PO of my car deleted the charcoal canister and capped off the vacuum hose. The T connector that the hose is plugged into is pretty worn and needs replacement. Would I be able to just delete this vacuum hose and replace that T connector with something that can just plug into the other vacuum line that is connected to the T connector? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

Here's an interesting one.

My G60 runs great, drives great, and I have an AFR gauge.

At start up it runs at ~12.5 rich as expected when cold, when warm (but before driving) it will settle at 14.7, when driving around under power it tries to maintain 14.7, when coasting it jumps to 22.7 (as expected and indicating the idle switch is working, as how I know. ), and at WOT it drops to ~12.5 when the RPM climb high enough. All seem fine.

The issue I have is after the car is warm, when I stop at a light or stop the car, the car will run rich at ~13 and wont return to 14.7 for quite a while. Its not rich enough for smoke or even a smell, but this is a relatively new behavior. 

Before I run through the usual suspects just curious if the experts had some "check this first" advice. Since it seems to only happen after driving around seems like its a sensor somewhere, perhaps a temp sensor? I dont suspect timing or vacuum.

-e


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

I would double check the Idle switch and make sure the throttle cable is not too tight and preventing the switch from closing at times.

The High AFR under decel is Fuel Cut, but is not usually triggered by the idle switch. Decel Fuel cut is usually done by the ECU at some RPM switch point under low load (Low KPa MAP). This can happen off idle switch when downshifting, etc. I have not been in the Digi Code, so I am not absolutely certain about the Fuel Cut algorithm for Digi. 

Digi does not really go into full closed loop until it reaches proper temp AND the engine has rev'ed above 1800 RPM (I forget exactly the RPM). That's why this is part of the procedure in setting the base timing.

Normally, I would check Idle switch, O2 sensor and it's wiring, the CO POT Value and possible the Blue CTS values.

It really sounds like it could just be idle switch, but possibly O2.

Have you ever changed CO POT setting? What Chip?


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## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

Hey Shawn,

I actually had the idle switch fail about a year ago. I replaced with that mouser part mod that's floating around here. The symptoms associated with the bad idle switch for me was a searching idle. But also when cruising and letting off the throttle the AFR would not hit 22.7 but just bounce around. With the replaced switch the fuel cut off on off throttle returned.

I've been running a BBM stage 4 chip. I haven't touched the COPOT in a while. I believe I last set it to the "factory" resistance. I agree with your list and I'll report on what I find. I was thikning the O2 sensor was likely good becuase it holds AFR just fine under throttle and load. Just idle is a bit rich when the car is warmed up.

thanks,
eddie


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## hubsch (Nov 29, 2004)

Steering spline question. 90 G60 looking to add Momo steering wheel and cannot find a hub adapter to fit. Tried other Momo VW adapters. Were there different splines for the early Corrados? TIA.


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## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

Source for connecting rod bolts for the g60? Looking stateside. I've read that arp should only be used if the rod has been machined to match, so any oem suppliers or other manufacturers that don't need work to fit? Reason I'm doing this is because I need to replace a single piston due to a major scratch on the crown. I have a used set of oem pistons from another c (removed at 140k miles about 13 years ago) and hoping I can just use one of those old pistons (and will re ring the rest of the pistons). My original block is still good so don't really need to bore and get bigger pistons


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## MexicanPsycho (Apr 10, 2004)

Recently picked up a 92 Slc 5spd, the windows, seat belts and central locking are not working.

I checked all the fuses

I get power at fuse 14, reverse light connector, door switches light up and I can get the windows to work if I apply direct power to them.

I am not getting power to the window control module. I also tried swapping with a working unit, no dice.

Any ideas on where to look? I pulled the fuse box down and didn’t see anything out of place or burnt out.


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## BMAN (Jun 9, 1999)

Its been sometime but should be a fuse right above the fuse box.


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## MexicanPsycho (Apr 10, 2004)

BMAN said:


> Its been sometime but should be a fuse right above the fuse box.


I checked all the fuses above the fusebox also


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## phil027235 (Jun 27, 2020)

*mfa mpg calculation*

I am interested in the parameters used in calculating mpg. I believe there are 3, engine load, distance travelled and rpm. 

Engine load used to be measured from intake vacuum but after about 91 this changed. My question is how is load now measured? is it from the potentiometer on the maf? I think this must be the case as info from the potentiometer is fed to the ecu and the ecu supplies mpg? However, I have been through the pin out diagram for the ecu and there seems to be no conection to the mfa?

If anyone knows how this all works I would be very interested.

I have a 93 2.0l 16v 9a, owned it for 20 yrs so know it quite well.

Phil


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## MexicanPsycho (Apr 10, 2004)

Help please I’m not getting power to ecu pin 23 causing a no start issue, I tried jumping the ecu relay but I’m still not getting power. Swapped ignition switch and 109 relay also.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Can you verify you have 12v coming to and out of the ignition switch?


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## MexicanPsycho (Apr 10, 2004)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Can you verify you have 12v coming to and out of the ignition switch?


Yessir I’m getting 12v

Yesterday I pulled the fusebox down to try to fix the no power windows issue, I got that fixed but I think I must have disconnected a plug at the fusebox by accident cause now it won’t start. :banghead:


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Check coming into the 109 relay as well if you have that jumped you should see power at pin23


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## MexicanPsycho (Apr 10, 2004)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Check coming into the 109 relay as well if you have that jumped you should see power at pin23


I’m not getting any power to relay 109, not sure where it gets its power/ ground from


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## MexicanPsycho (Apr 10, 2004)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Check coming into the 109 relay as well if you have that jumped you should see power at pin23


Got it running, tried the ecu relay bypass again and it started right up. However it will not start without the relay 109 bypass.

I tried swapping two different ecu relays without luck.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Ecm pin 9 is the signal for the relay. Probably worth checking between there and the relay.


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## MexicanPsycho (Apr 10, 2004)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Ecm pin 9 is the signal for the relay. Probably worth checking between there and the relay.


Got a chance to figure this out over the weekend. Pin #9 on the ecu connector was bent/pushed in just enough to not make contact with the ecu. I went over all the pins on the ecu connector with a pick tool and all is well for now.

I really appreciate the help:thumbup:


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Good find!!


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

*Alternator Belt Cover*

I have two covers, both are dated 98 and both have the same part number.
I have only seen the one that bolts to the engine side of the alternator, the one I have has a press in plastic insert instead of a nut inserted.
The piece is molded like this with other differences in the fillet supporting the area.
Odd to see the same part number on a part so different, can anyone shed some light on this?


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Jimweis said:


> I have two covers, both are dated 98 and both have the same part number.
> I have only seen the one that bolts to the engine side of the alternator, the one I have has a press in plastic insert instead of a nut inserted.
> The piece is molded like this with other differences in the fillet supporting the area.
> Odd to see the same part number on a part so different, can anyone shed some light on this?


Are they dated 98 or 89?

There is a C and a D version. The C version is for 65A and the D version is for 90A. I can barely read the number in your top one with the plastic tab and don't see if it has a suffix. 

https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/usa/corrado/cor/1990-76/9/903-196025/


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> There is a C and a D version. The C version is for 65A and the D version is for 90A.


There is a 191903091 on eBay and it says 191 903 091 D on the clip.


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Are they dated 98 or 89?
> 
> There is a C and a D version. The C version is for 65A and the D version is for 90A. I can barely read the number in your top one with the plastic tab and don't see if it has a suffix.
> 
> https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/usa/corrado/cor/1990-76/9/903-196025/


Oops 89 that's why I not an accountant, both have no suffix.










The clip on the one with the bolt has a B the other has nothing on the clip and is a longer.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Jimweis said:


> Oops 89 that's why I not an accountant, both have no suffix.
> 
> The clip on the one with the bolt has a B the other has nothing on the clip and is a longer.


Is the B on the other side? 

The one on eBay has no suffix on the inside either, just on the clip. 

Here is a picture of the one on eBay showing the other side of the clip:










https://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-CORRADO...347352?hash=item421d88d198:g:xZIAAOSw3WhfInMe


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Is the B on the other side?
> 
> The one on eBay has no suffix on the inside either, just on the clip.
> 
> ...


The B is where the D is on this one.


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

*G Charger of the engine I'm installing*

The used engine I am putting in my Corrado was barely used after it was rebuilt. I understand from the salvage yard I purchased it from the former owner completely had the engine rebuilt W/Stage 4 BBM setup and put a 02A in place of the automatic. Never was happy with or couldn't get it working to their satisfaction and sold it to him. The salvage yard owner was a Mopar drag racer with a spot in his heart for VWs.
See the pics of the supercharger and where it was rebuilt. I have a newly rebuilt charger I plan to run, this one will be a spare. I'm sure it should have a refresh done on it after 10+ years but little miles. I'm wondering if anyone has any history or knowledge about German Autohaus the charger re-builder?


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

*G-Ladder refresh?*

I have one I bought with a few miles on it with a fresh rebuild, but I don't know who did it and it is painted silver, not to my liking.
I'm thinking about sending this one to Bahn Brenner for a tune up. It is dry inside and spins nice and smooth.
Chime in with your thoughts? I think this one would surly look better.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

I have no history or knowledge of them, but was on a VW hiatus around that time. They are not in the G60 Forum Rebuilder's thread either. There were a lot of companies back in the day thinking they could rebuild them, etc, and trying to use replacement seals, bearings, etc that were NG. That doesn't mean that it was not rebuilt by someone after them, but unless I had documentation on the rebuild, I would at a minimum, split the cases and inspect! I always do.

Also, you can tell a lot from the brand of seals used on the case and Displacer and the color and wear of the apex strips. Goetze seals are a good indicator that someone new what they were doing and used factory parts. There are others that are acceptable though.


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## 94407k (Nov 10, 2020)

New guy here. Been a non member lurker for a long time. I searched and only found a post from 2004 with broken links that would have answered my question.

1993, vr6, obd1 coilpack. I bought the car non-running and have been sorting through the PO mess to get running. I found the burnt pcb from a capacitor in the ecm causing no fuel. Now that I have fuel there is no spark.

I'm looking for a wiring schematic for the coil pack control wires/harness routing. My issue is no spark. I have ground continuity on pin 1 (brn) and 5 (blk) and to my understanding pin 5 (blk) should be 12v power and pin 1 ground? I read around 1.5v on the other 3 pins but haven't received my test light in the mail yet for flicker test. 

If pin 5 is supposed to be 12v then a short to ground is causing no spark so I'll need to find where it's touching or connected wrong. Does anybody know where the harness connects to the fuse panel/ignition etc.? The harness in the engine bay looks ok but my fuse panel is a mess and I don't see if it connects looking on the panel diagrams. Is it directly from the ecm?

Thanks all!


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

94407k said:


> New guy here. Been a non member lurker for a long time. I searched and only found a post from 2004 with broken links that would have answered my question.
> 
> 1993, vr6, obd1 coilpack. I bought the car non-running and have been sorting through the PO mess to get running. I found the burnt pcb from a capacitor in the ecm causing no fuel. Now that I have fuel there is no spark.
> 
> ...


Pin 5 is definitely suppose to have 12v and powered by IGN switch circuit #15 in Fuse Panel. Comes out to Engine harness from Fuse Panel via G1/4 (G plug pin 4)

It also interconnects with pin 1 on the VSS Speed sensor power on the trans and pin T68/38 on ECU.

A great reference for wiring is a2resouce.com, but the Bentley is a must in this case.


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## 94407k (Nov 10, 2020)

sdezego said:


> 94407k said:
> 
> 
> > Pin 5 is definitely suppose to have 12v and powered by IGN switch circuit #15 in Fuse Panel. Comes out to Engine harness from Fuse Panel via G1/4 (G plug pin 4)
> ...


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

I use A2 resource also, but mostly for the brochure rack. I never bother with the electrical stuff because none of my VWs are mainstreaam. 

If the Bentley helps you get it to 100% FMC (Fully Mission Capable), then you can ask more for it. Not only that, but you can throw in the Bentley manual as an extra buyer incentive. 

eBay has cheaper prices (than $150ish) for new ones but here's a used one. It's more expensive than a Chilton, but it's a Bentley. You can mark it up for the '93 VR6 Coil Pack so the next owner doesn't try to troubleshoot it as a '93 VR6 distributor or a '90 G60:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-1994-...763472?hash=item1f15533f90:g:9-EAAOSwYBFfQ~VO

EDIT: If you look at the picture of the back cover in the eBay auction, it has a supplement for "Motronic Distrutorless Ignition--VR6".


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

sdezego said:


> I have no history or knowledge of them, but was on a VW hiatus around that time. They are not in the G60 Forum Rebuilder's thread either. There were a lot of companies back in the day thinking they could rebuild them, etc, and trying to use replacement seals, bearings, etc that were NG. That doesn't mean that it was not rebuilt by someone after them, but unless I had documentation on the rebuild, I would at a minimum, split the cases and inspect! I always do.
> 
> Also, you can tell a lot from the brand of seals used on the case and Displacer and the color and wear of the apex strips. Goetze seals are a good indicator that someone new what they were doing and used factory parts. There are others that are acceptable though.


To split the case can that be done with only removing the perimeter bolts and everything else stays in tact?
I would like to see the condition inside before sending it for a refresh. It would be easy for someone to tell me it's trash when you haven't seen inside.

I took a look through the outlet sure arn't oem seals, this one looks like it should go in for a rebuild.










I have another one I disassembled years ago, I think it was rebuilt in 2012 off an interior fire car, was going to attempt a rebuild myself but this should be done by a pro. BBM doesn't want to rebuild it if you have already disassembled it. Where else can I get a quality rebuild done?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Yes, you can remove the perimeter bolts and carefully split the case. Lay pulley side down and remove the outlet housing and everything else will say as is. You wont be able to see the other side of the displacer but will give a good indication as to what you are dealing with.

That looks like a NAK viton seal. They are typically fine. It's definitely been apart before.


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

sdezego said:


> Yes, you can remove the perimeter bolts and carefully split the case. Lay pulley side down and remove the outlet housing and everything else will say as is. You wont be able to see the other side of the displacer but will give a good indication as to what you are dealing with.
> 
> That looks like a NAK viton seal. They are typically fine. It's definitely been apart before.


I believe I will just send the German Autohaus charger for a BBM tune up, it looks like this charger has very little use since the rebuild. 
I cleaned the outside up. 
I thought about just installing it to see how it works, but it would be best to just install it only once.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Cool. Based on the date "93" stamped in the Hex recess on the outlet case, that's a 3rd gen, late charger.


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

Jimweis said:


> I believe I will just send the German Autohaus charger for a BBM tune up, it looks like this charger has very little use since the rebuild.
> I cleaned the outside up.
> I thought about just installing it to see how it works, but it would be best to just install it only once.





sdezego said:


> Cool. Based on the date "93" stamped in the Hex recess on the outlet case, that's a 3rd gen, late charger.


Yes that's great, I can't make any date out of the other one.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Jimweis said:


> Yes that great, I can't make any date out of the other one.


Interesting. Don't think I have ever seen that.


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## fastslc (Sep 14, 1999)

Breaking the rules here on double posting. Looking for a quick answer

Hello, could someone please tell me what is the main difference between those two? Besides the obvious spring. Does the one without the spring has some sort of helper mechanism inside.

The form and fit is the same. But I am concerned about the parking brake bracket position. According to the parts looks up, the parking brake cable is compatible for all year models.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

fastslc said:


> Breaking the rules here on double posting. Looking for a quick answer
> 
> Hello, could someone please tell me what is the main difference between those two? Besides the obvious spring. Does the one without the spring has some sort of helper mechanism inside.
> 
> ...


I have never taken them apart, but the Girlings seem to have the spring and Lucas (not) (as pictured). I had a late 93 that had Lucas on the rears (i still have the calipers) and I kind of wondered the same thing. I got the car with 93k and I don't think they were ever changed, but who knows. Never taken the rears apart, but have to assume there is an inner spring or ramp mechanism. I'm in for someone who has...


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## [email protected] (Dec 8, 2007)

I'm not sure but I guess there should be a spring by lucas calliper too 








these are mk4 alu, but the parking brake mechanism is the same..

both the girling and lucas callipers have two springs, strong spring inside and "helping" spring outside. newer design - lucas, mk4 alu are easier to repair cos the praking brake mechanism is all in one piece, so you just remove the securing ring and you can pull parking brake mechanism and o-ring out.









parking brake mechanism and securing rings ( bottom right)


older design - girling ,mk2 golf is trickier to repair..






















parking brake mechanism










you have to press the spring to remove/instal the securing ring.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

The Lucas calipers that were on my late 1993 did not have spring. Maybe they added them to the later as I know the AL Mk4 Lucas do as you mentioned. Also looks like the spring clip for the cable changed with the Lucas Calipers in 1993 starting with VIN # 9001 +


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

sdezego said:


> Cool. Based on the date "93" stamped in the Hex recess on the outlet case, that's a 3rd gen, late charger.


I cleaned up the one I disassembled and found a date on the other half, could 99 be correct? Also odd color dots on it. The halves are suffixed "B" & "C" my other chargers are "A" and "B"


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Jimweis said:


> *G-Ladder refresh?*
> 
> I have one I bought with a few miles on it with a fresh rebuild, but I don't know who did it and it is painted silver, not to my liking.
> I'm thinking about sending this one to Bahn Brenner for a tune up. It is dry inside and spins nice and smooth.
> Chime in with your thoughts? I think this one would surly look better.


Not sure if you’ve noticed by now, but the rebuilder scribed their name on the casing behind the pulley. Something “Autohaus”. BBM will scribe your full name on the casing to track it during rebuild.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

mateok said:


> Not sure if you’ve noticed by now, but the rebuilder scribed their name on the casing behind the pulley. Something “Autohaus”. BBM will scribe your full name on the casing to track it during rebuild.


That is good to know for people to ensure you get back your charger.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Jimweis said:


> I cleaned up the one I disassembled and found a date on the other half, could 99 be correct? Also odd color dots on it. The halves are suffixed "B" & "C" my other chargers are "A" and "B"


I am not the foremost expert on that, but it seems plausible. A manufacturer must provide 10 years of parts. About 6 years ago or so (maybe more), VW unloaded and had a firesale on NOS chargers. My prior assumption was that 3rd gen chargers were stamped with 91 or 92 (I forget).

Late gen chargers are easy to distinguish by the displacer. You had a pic posted, but I no longer see it. They have 2 bridges off of the inner scrolls that tail into the center where Gen 1 are completely open.

Also, the wear at the center of that ebay displacer you had posted is a little concerning. Looks like it ingested some debris. The rest looked pretty darn good but hard to tell from pictures. It will still be rebuildable and will work fine, but the circular grooves (depending on how bad, will loose some slight sealing and will accellerate the apex strips wear slightly. All in all not a big deal and definitely worth the price.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

sdezego said:


> I am not the foremost expert on that, but it seems plausible. A manufacturer must provide 10 years of parts. About 6 years ago or so (maybe more), VW unloaded and had a firesale on NOS chargers. My prior assumption was that 3rd gen chargers were stamped with 91 or 92 (I forget).


Looked up my old notes. 2/90 started Gen 3 Chargers with the late displacer. Gen one was early 89 with no timing belt cover (I have never seen one and my guess is '89 Corrados only).

Gen 3 from 2/90 + had the late displacer with the inner scroll bridges and different ports and weighed 10g more.
stroke from small shaft increased from 4.9mm -> 4.915mm and displacer went from 96.5mm to a smaller 96.43 to accommodate the larger stroke. My guess this change was more harmonics due to the heavier displacer, but that is just a guess.

This is why it's important not to mix match stuff. Cases are said to be interchangeable.


----------



## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

sdezego said:


> I am not the foremost expert on that, but it seems plausible. A manufacturer must provide 10 years of parts. About 6 years ago or so (maybe more), VW unloaded and had a firesale on NOS chargers. My prior assumption was that 3rd gen chargers were stamped with 91 or 92 (I forget).
> 
> Late gen chargers are easy to distinguish by the displacer. You had a pic posted, but I no longer see it. They have 2 bridges off of the inner scrolls that tail into the center where Gen 1 are completely open.
> 
> Also, the wear at the center of that ebay displacer you had posted is a little concerning. Looks like it ingested some debris. The rest looked pretty darn good but hard to tell from pictures. It will still be rebuildable and will work fine, but the circular grooves (depending on how bad, will loose some slight sealing and will accellerate the apex strips wear slightly. All in all not a big deal and definitely worth the price.


There is no legal requirement for a car manufacturer to provide parts support for 10 years. It's more of an unwritten rule.

We in the Phaeton forum researched this a few years ago. It is a general rule of thumb but not a legal requirement that we could find.

The unwritten rule may apply to ROW Phaetons but it was barely out of production when parts started drying up in North America. Parts I wanted to order were going NLA a month or so after production ended. Owners have reported that dealers can't even get some parts from Germany.


----------



## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

mateok said:


> Not sure if you’ve noticed by now, but the rebuilder scribed their name on the casing behind the pulley. Something “Autohaus”. BBM will scribe your full name on the casing to track it during rebuild.


Yes the dissplacer has been scribed on too, from the German Autohaus rebuild.


----------



## Lance_s (Dec 8, 2020)

Any tips for a noob doing his first timing belt and water pump on a G60.


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

Line up the marks like the Bentley shows.


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## Lance_s (Dec 8, 2020)

Alright, Thank you 
I saw some tutorials just putting paint marks on the belt then just transferring belts over without moving anything or setting the engine at TDC would you advise against this?


----------



## BGomes (Jun 30, 2003)

xavierz007 said:


> *Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*
> 
> awesome, thanks for the help. i figured i'd do all of that and do the billet crack pipe everyone seems so fond of.


In addition to the flush, sensors on the block, crack pipe, it is also important to check the sensor on the radiator, then check that your system runs all three speeds on the rad fan assy and that they kick in correctly. Sometimes the solenoid which controls the fans sticks. This is a common fault - not all cars were properly recalled for the fix. 

Many of us have since fitted oil coolers with thermostats. Really helps on long high speed runs.


----------



## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Lance_s said:


> Alright, Thank you
> I saw some tutorials just putting paint marks on the belt then just transferring belts over without moving anything or setting the engine at TDC would you advise against this?


So mark the original belt then mark the new belt to match? Or just mark the original belt and put it back the same way?

I can't even picture that working in my mind. I would mess that up for sure. 

The only thing that would save me on a G60 is it's not an interference engine. 

It's super easy to just line up the marks as the Bentley manual shows.


----------



## Lance_s (Dec 8, 2020)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> So mark the original belt then mark the new belt to match? Or just mark the original belt and put it back the same way?
> 
> I can't even picture that working in my mind. I would mess that up for sure.
> 
> ...


Alright got it thanks for all the help.


----------



## BGomes (Jun 30, 2003)

xavierz007 said:


> *Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)*
> 
> thx, i feel like a new born asking n00b questions. lol.
> been 7 yrs since i last had my g60 and the vr6 i just got feels like an entirely different beast.
> ...





Noobercorn said:


> *Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (xavierz007)*
> 
> not abnormal at all. basically, all corrado's run hot. (water and oil temps)
> my suggestion: flush system, new thermostat, water wetter, and an external oil cooler.
> ...


These are the things to address - with the benefit of hindsight
1. As mentioned by VdubCorrado: flush the waterways and radiator, get rid of all deposits. While you are at it check the thermostat housing (take it off and have a good look) replace the seals. Also check and replace the crack pipe with an alloy one, fit new o rings. They leak more than we are seem to admit. When you fill up with coolant make it 50% distilled water and 50% coolant additive. Do *not *use tap water - as it conributes to head gasket failure, damaged sensor and thermostat housing seals.
2 Check and replace the hoses with silicone hoses. They just don't spring leaks like OEM hoses.
3. Check and if necessary replace the temperature sensors. If you have a multimeter check their response to temp changes. ETKA and Bentley manuals provide the temps at which they change.
4. Again if you have a multimeter check the trigger temperatures and trigger points for the fans - your fans have three speeds and use two temp sensors, one on the radiator, one on the cluster where the thermostat is fitted. Make sure you are confident that the fan relay is responding properly. They develop faults more often than people realise.
5. Replace the OEM aluminium radiator either with a copper one or a racing rad with proper alloy side caps. Makes a massive difference.
6. If you regularly do high speed runs that last for more than 2 hours I strongly recommend you fit a thermostatically controlled oil cooler kit. There's enough space next to the steering rack cooler (under the rad). Read up on how it is done. 13 rows on the cooler matrix is enough - but make sure that thermostat is from a reputable source or you could face overcooling.
7. VdubCorrado is right. Complex thin, synthetic oils are worth the trouble, even though they need more topping up. If you've never flushed your engine, read up about it and give it a really good flush before using thin oils. Then stick to thin oils.


----------



## BGomes (Jun 30, 2003)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> There is no legal requirement for a car manufacturer to provide parts support for 10 years. It's more of an unwritten rule.
> 
> We in the Phaeton forum researched this a few years ago. It is a general rule of thumb but not a legal requirement that we could find.
> 
> The unwritten rule may apply to ROW Phaetons but it was barely out of production when parts started drying up in North America. Parts I wanted to order were going NLA a month or so after production ended. Owners have reported that dealers can't even get some parts from Germany.


Interesting. In Europe, specifically Denmark, Germany, Sweden, Norway and the UK - there could be others - the 10 year rule applies for all products retailed in those countries. I had to invoke it recently when Miele stopped supplying a door (sold in the UK, manufactured partly in Germany, partly in Norway) for my fridge and they were forced to replace the entire fridge for the cost of the door at the point when they stopped stocking it. The same rule applies to car parts on this side of the pond.


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## BGomes (Jun 30, 2003)

OBD2 conversion from OBD1 on a Corrado SLC/ VR6
I made the terrible mistake of putting off the conversion until this winter, started looking for all the material only to discover that Dennis' work is now gone and the vwvortex '93 Distributor to OBD2 how to guide' has lost its photographs. Does anybody - by some fluke - have a photographic guide similar to Dennis one, and a wiring modification checklist of changes - link here or via PM? 

So yes it is a Noob mistake. Unacceptable for someone who's been on this forum for so long - but... well, I've been scanning the forum for days now and havent found enough to get a proper detailed plan in place.


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

sdezego said:


> That is good to know for people to ensure you get back your charger.


I finally cracked open the charger I plan to send out for a refresh (German Autohaus one), the displacer has been scribed so I can be sure I get the same one back. I think it looks good inside, glad I decided to have the apex seals done over it looks like they have shrunk since installed. I am a little concerned about the amount of oil I see, does it look excessive to you?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Axep strips did shrink and look like the grey ones, which makes sense as they are not a good replacement. I wouldn't worry about the oil since you are getting new seals anyway. Looks like displacer seals were changed, but small shaft not, so who knows what they did. You can see though that someone was likely using a crap foam cone filter at some point or were just bad on changing air filter. It's still ok, but you can see the deeper circular grooves from debris.


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## Tommy D (Oct 10, 2000)

Jimweis said:


> I finally cracked open the charger I plan to send out for a refresh (German Autohaus one), the displacer has been scribed so I can be sure I get the same one back. I think it looks good inside, glad I decided to have the apex seals done over it looks like they have shrunk since installed. I am a little concerned about the amount of oil I see, does it look excessive to you?


The end of the displacer groove has been epoxied, be sure that it still has good adhesion before running it. A replacement 3rd generation displacer will be hard to find.


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

Tommy D said:


> The end of the displacer groove has been epoxied, be sure that it still has good adhesion before running it. A replacement 3rd generation displacer will be hard to find.


Good catch, thanks. Something went on before the last rebuild, clearly dug in to the housing also.
I don't feel so bad sending this in for a $200 tune up then. I assume it will work OK with new strips maybe a bit of lost boost. No doubt they will be sending the same one back to me. I'll give them a head's up before they open it.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

ohhh, I completely overlooked that... Yes, this is typical from a neglected charger than had worn apex strips that got so bad, they eded up getting spit out the end of the displacer. You can see the wear on the case where the strip that was being ejected wore the case down over time. I have a spare one like that as well.. If you don't "need" this charger, you may just want to save it and not spend the money on the rebuild right now. It should work like that and obviously was for some time, but that one looks like it was pretty bad. How much boost loss? I can't comment.

on the other side of the coin, FWIW, the VWMS chargers had much shorter displacer walls and this shorter Apex strips.


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

sdezego said:


> ohhh, I completely overlooked that... Yes, this is typical from a neglected charger than had worn apex strips that got so bad, they eded up getting spit out the end of the displacer. You can see the wear on the case where the strip that was being ejected wore the case down over time. I have a spare one like that as well.. If you don't "need" this charger, you may just want to save it and not spend the money on the rebuild right now. It should work like that and obviously was for some time, but that one looks like it was pretty bad. How much boost loss? I can't comment.
> 
> on the other side of the coin, FWIW, the VWMS chargers had much shorter displacer walls and this shorter Apex strips.


I'm thinking the displacer really wasn't damaged, they filled the groove so the apex strip would stop short and not be in the previous hole dug in the housing, flip flopping back and forth.
I am sending it out to be resealed, apex strips and new belt. good enough for this unit. I have a 1990 charger which looks decent for a rebuild but I'm going with this later gen one. The one I have with a 1999 date still intrigues me.


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## hawb91g60 (Nov 12, 2020)

Hello all,

I have asked for help on another thread, but still have a cooling fan non op issue on a 91 g60. Just a bit of background: I have replaced the WP with new, thermostat with hole, rad is secondhand but clean, new fan switch, new relays, new blue and black CTS. Basically a whole new cooling system. The fan will run when grounding the after run and when jumping between pin 1/2, 1/3 at the thermoswitch. I have heat, no apparent trapped air. Flushed rad and HC multiple times. I have also checked and replaced fuse 19. Is there anything I'm missing here? The black CTS is run of the mill parts store and seems to not match resistance to displayed temp. Any suggestions of where to look next would be greatly appreciated.


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

Jimweis said:


> I'm thinking the displacer really wasn't damaged, they filled the groove so the apex strip would stop short and not be in the previous hole dug in the housing, flip flopping back and forth.
> I am sending it out to be resealed, apex strips and new belt. good enough for this unit. I have a 1990 charger which looks decent for a rebuild but I'm going with this later gen one. The one I have with a 1999 date still intrigues me.


I received this unit back fro BBM the epoxy was secure and the reseal, new apex strips and belt should have me good to go, Robert is great to deal with. The one with the odd inscriptions and paint markings will be going there for a complete rebuild next, then shelved as a spare, what looked like a date of 1999 on it is not the date.
I still have a very rebuildable early one which I think may be the correct one for my 1/1990 build date, just keeping that as an extra. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

Can I run my RV 1.8 naturally aspirated engine on the PG ECU with PG harness, using the CO Pot in the intake tube instead of the air flow meter? I'm thinking I will not have time this summer with homeowner tasks to install my PG engine. I would like to install the PG ECU and clean up the wiring getting the bugs out before installing the engine. The fuel pump relay was bypassed when the PO installed the Jetta engine. To me connected as I plan, it would be not much different than running a PG engine with the supercharger bypassed. I assume the RV ECU didn't have the same outputs as the PG for the fuel pump system. 1990 5 speed, I have time for tinkering but not all at once.
Thanks, in advance.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

I have run a couple G0s while waiting on things 

I think the belt length is something like 59”
Remove the oil feed and return lines, plug the ports and figure out how you want to filter the air going to the throttle body inlet and boost return port/ISV. 

One year at Waterfest I drag raced my G0, and with a diff, race motormounts and other goodies I was super consistent and won the slow bracket. I got 44mpg there and back from Virginia Beach with my TDI 5th gear.

For the oil feed just put the oil sending unit into the side of the head.

For the return remove the hose barb and plug it with a bolt into the block or just put a bolt through the banjo fitting.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Here is one that I bypassed for a friend while we awaited his Lysholm to arrive


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

G60ING said:


> Here is one that I bypassed for a friend while we awaited his Lysholm to arrive


I want to place the CO Pot in the location of the arrow in this photo and just leave the airflow meter in place. Running my non supercharged engine with the heated O2 the 
PG connections and vacuum line connected to the ECU. I'm not sure what the ISV will do without boost. I really want to get the FP relay and correct after-run set up.


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Running a mk2 intake manifold, mk2 throttle body and a turbo diesel airbox with a COpot sounds like a nice clean setup. Turbo diesel mk2 doesn’t have the airflow meter on the air box. The corrado VR6 is another air box option. 

How are you going to extend the harness for the CO pot? 

The ISV will need a source of filtered air. It will do fine without boost. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

I have that worked out, making up an extension wire.


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## BrownSoda (Mar 21, 2004)

Experts... Do you think this thread ruined open discussion within the Corrado forum in general or has VWVortex really declined that much? This thread is a HOT MESSSSSSSS to search through without advanced search functions.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

BrownSoda said:


> Experts... Do you think this thread ruined open discussion within the Corrado forum in general or has VWVortex really declined that much? This thread is a HOT MESSSSSSSS to search through without advanced search functions.


Both, unfortunately...


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## BrownSoda (Mar 21, 2004)

sdezego said:


> Both, unfortunately...


Good to see a name I recognize still chip'n in man.


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## jettag60 (Nov 2, 2005)

Front mount intercoolers, what sizes seem to fit the best without having to chop out too much of the bumper rebar and rad support 

Looking at a "350hp" type intercooler. Nothing crazy


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

jettag60 said:


> Front mount intercoolers, what sizes seem to fit the best without having to chop out too much of the bumper rebar and rad support
> 
> Looking at a "350hp" type intercooler. Nothing crazy


What is too much ? hehe
The Golf G60 IC will require some cutting in the rad support, but if it matters to you, you do get a very clean install and it is h u g e.
There are even aftermarket ones who are deeper then stock. Not sure if they need any more modification to fit. 
The problem with this IC is to actully get direct air to the whole thing, as the front is so packed. I have been thinking of making a lip behind the lower grille in bumper to push air to IC from bottom, 
If you have not seen it, you can see install of it in my thread at page 1, almost at bottom. Did not take pictures of what was required to cut....


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## jettag60 (Nov 2, 2005)

ya the idea location for installing an intercooler (with as little cutting as possible) put's it right behind the rebar so almost entirely blocked.

With an AWIC do you have to run a separate tank where you put ice? i need to start researching this option


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## izcorrado18 (Aug 21, 2005)

jettag60 said:


> ya the idea location for installing an intercooler (with as little cutting as possible) put's it right behind the rebar so almost entirely blocked.
> 
> With an AWIC do you have to run a separate tank where you put ice? i need to start researching this option


With an AWIC you can run a closed systems with a fill port but it will be rough if you ever take it to the track. I was planning in the future have the pump run with the fans. Kind of the after-run set up in order to cool the intercooler. A water tank allows you to add ice and route for your coolant to cool down. I was going to place the tank behind the passenger rear tire hump and use a 3 gallon fuel tank. Hope this helps.








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----------



## jettag60 (Nov 2, 2005)

don't ever plan on taking the car to the track and we normally don't see temps over 30C here.....plus if it's that hot i'm not driving the car very far anyways (no ac) and I work 10 mins from home....and honestly i don't trust the car for long road trips anyways, that's what my truck is for.

this is purely a summer/fun car project car that's been in the family for 25 years


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## izcorrado18 (Aug 21, 2005)

jettag60 said:


> don't ever plan on taking the car to the track and we normally don't see temps over 30C here.....plus if it's that hot i'm not driving the car very far anyways (no ac) and I work 10 mins from home....and honestly i don't trust the car for long road trips anyways, that's what my truck is for.
> 
> this is purely a summer/fun car project car that's been in the family for 25 years


You can do Vegeta's setup. I will be doing this set up in the future but on the passenger side instead.


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

G60ING said:


> Running a mk2 intake manifold, mk2 throttle body and a turbo diesel airbox with a COpot sounds like a nice clean setup. Turbo diesel mk2 doesn’t have the airflow meter on the air box. The corrado VR6 is another air box option.
> 
> How are you going to extend the harness for the CO pot?
> 
> ...


The ISV is already connected to the intake tube of the RV motor for filtered air, the COpot section of the trash piece of charge tube will go in the intake hose just behind the unused air flow meter. 
All this to make sure when I install the PG it will have no reason not to run.
_What is the purpose of the crankcase vent being heated going to the idle bypass tube?_
As you can see the wiring for it is bundled up with a zip tie in this pic.










I still need to study the fuel pump relay diagram and if it was bypassed because the after-run and the output from the Corrado ECU is different than the Jetta ECU. The wiring up in the rain tray has the FP relay wire spliced, that seems the only area except a FP hot wire from the relay panel has a terminal with a fused wire run to it. Years ago I connected it there the PO had it connected to the AC fuse. Since then I have installed all those missing components and used the AC fuse for the AC which I am happy to say blows cold, for now hopefully after the PG install it will too.


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

G60ING said:


> Running a mk2 intake manifold, mk2 throttle body and a turbo diesel airbox with a COpot sounds like a nice clean setup. Turbo diesel mk2 doesn’t have the airflow meter on the air box. The corrado VR6 is another air box option.
> 
> How are you going to extend the harness for the CO pot?
> 
> ...


I 'm slowly gathering parts, I found a TDI mk2 air box at a local pick and pull cheap, that will help clean this temporary attempt to run the naturally aspirated engine on the G60 controls. I couldn't find an air box anywhere online.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

The heated Crank case breather was to burn off any oil vapors to prevent them from entering the combustion process. This can lower the effective octane in the burn process which in itself can cause detonation. I am sure it is typical german overkill, esp on 93 octane fuel


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

sdezego said:


> Looked up my old notes. 2/90 started Gen 3 Chargers with the late displacer. Gen one was early 89 with no timing belt cover (I have never seen one and my guess is '89 Corrados only).
> 
> Gen 3 from 2/90 + had the late displacer with the inner scroll bridges and different ports and weighed 10g more.
> stroke from small shaft increased from 4.9mm -> 4.915mm and displacer went from 96.5mm to a smaller 96.43 to accommodate the larger stroke. My guess this change was more harmonics due to the heavier displacer, but that is just a guess.
> ...


Unfortunately I received my rebuilt one back today, both haves of the case are mine but the internals are the earlier parts, no scroll bridges and the smaller ports, so much for getting back all your parts Been a sad day here.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Jimweis said:


> Unfortunately I received my rebuilt one back today, both haves of the case are mine but the internals are the earlier parts, no scroll bridges and the smaller ports, so much for getting back all your parts Been a sad day here.


Was it rebuilt by BBM?


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Was it rebuilt by BBM?


I would prefer not to say, I'm not one to name, names publicly. The rebuilder offered to put my parts back in if I ship it back, when I opened it up it had about two weeks of shop dust inside not cleaned off before assembly, so it will not be going back. It seems I am the only one who cares about my charger being returned to me as sent. To rebuilders it's just another charger. This charger was to be an investment because of all the late design features, now it will go in the car and the other late one I have which was only resealed will be the investment/spare.


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

I need a little help with rebuilding the rebuild. All the guides I have seen explain everything about the apex strips except if they are to be easily sprung in and out after install on the outer halves. See the photo below when I received mine back from the rebuilder the sprung strips are unevenly protruding from the grooves and don't move at all.(see pic)
Shouldn't these be easily pressed in and spring back?
The displacer has no springs in the groove under the strips, I assume it is correct, they just are pressed all the way in the groove?
When viewing note this is how it looks inside freshly rebuilt.


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## 01 (Sep 9, 2009)

I’m going to tackle the lovely hvac blend doors here in a bit. 

The car has functioning ac, and I’m wondering if I have to drain and disconnect the air conditioning to do it all properly while I’m in there. Planning on heater core replacement, shall I replace the evaporator as well?


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

Jimweis said:


> I want to place the CO Pot in the location of the arrow in this photo and just leave the airflow meter in place. Running my non supercharged engine with the heated O2 the
> PG connections and vacuum line connected to the ECU. I'm not sure what the ISV will do without boost. I really want to get the FP relay and correct after-run set up.


CO Pot located.


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## jettag60 (Nov 2, 2005)

Spent yesterday plumbing in the water hoses for the awic. It was hot yesterday so ran the car till it heat up hot, t stat opened but fan never came on. Maybe it didnt get quite hot enough. I have a single speed spal fan wired in with both high and low speed power wires.

But I checked the voltage at the body side of the fan harness. The solid red wire to ground showed good voltage. The stripped red to ground was reading under a 1v, is that normal? Maybe that's one of my issues with the fan not coming on. I need to check the Bentley and see what that stripped red wire is for

I should add A/C has been deleted so that includes any engine bay relays etc......I did it many many years ago so i cant remember everything that was deleted at the fuse box but if there was a harness back to the fuse box it was deleted as well


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

Jimweis said:


> I need a little help with rebuilding the rebuild. All the guides I have seen explain everything about the apex strips except if they are to be easily sprung in and out after install on the outer halves. See the photo below when I received mine back from the rebuilder the sprung strips are unevenly protruding from the grooves and don't move at all.(see pic)
> Shouldn't these be easily pressed in and spring back?
> The displacer has no springs in the groove under the strips it so I assume it is correct they just are pressed all the way in the groove?
> When viewing, note this is how it looks inside freshly rebuilt, quite dusty too.


Follow up, I received some of the amber colored strips and Kluber grease yesterday from Only Charged Dubs. These strips make a world of difference, fit perfect. The last pic says it all. I've learned a lot but this whole endeavor cost me $1000 but now it is done correct.


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## Tommy D (Oct 10, 2000)

Those gray strips you pulled out of the g60 are known to shrink, then cause problems.


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## Jtyler89 (Mar 23, 2021)

I got the awe track non res track straight pipe for my mk7 gli. If I go dp with a non res exhaust will it be too loud?


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

Tommy D said:


> Those gray strips you pulled out of the g60 are known to shrink, then cause problems.


They were installed in May by a volume rebuilder, I heard about issues with the gray strips also if they shrink, they cut them shorter than they should have been, I do < 1/16" at each end, the ends were pinched like side cutters were used. They probably purchase the material in bulk to make more $$.


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## girdwood (Mar 10, 2004)

Hello guys; question for you:

I am trying to find a radiator and an intercooler for my ALH swapped Corrado. I saw S&P use to make them for the Corrado chassis, but not anymore. So.. they still have this one:









Mk1 Intercooler Radiator Stacked Combination


We designed these units for 1.8t, TDI, and turbo 8v,16v motors. The radiator is a 21x7x2.5″ Fatty radiator, with our standard dual pass design, it includes a factory threaded port for our VW…




s-pautomotive.com





Has anyone used one of these? Do you guys think this would be sufficient for a 1.9 TDI with a STG4 Malone tune/VNT17, etc? Or do you have any other ideas? I have no radiator but I have a stock 1.8T Mk4 intercooler and Corrado SMICs... figured this combo would be a clean solution IF it will be sufficient.


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## girdwood (Mar 10, 2004)

I have another question... this one, wiring:

On the steering column stalk, the windshield wiper switch and cruise control switches both have a short 4-wire harness coming out of them. What are they suppose to plug into? I am trying to put this puzzle back together; but I didn't take it apart... so; any help would be appreciated. I have most of the rest of the wiring down; but can't seem to figure these two things out. I have harnesses J, S, H1/H2, etc. and from what I can tell, all the wiring is there. A picture would be worth a thousand words! Thanks!.

P4V:


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## 01 (Sep 9, 2009)

girdwood said:


> I have another question... this one, wiring:
> 
> On the steering column stalk, the windshield wiper switch and cruise control switches both have a short 4-wire harness coming out of them. What are they suppose to plug into? I am trying to put this puzzle back together; but I didn't take it apart... so; any help would be appreciated. I have most of the rest of the wiring down; but can't seem to figure these two things out. I have harnesses J, S, H1/H2, etc. and from what I can tell, all the wiring is there. A picture would be worth a thousand words! Thanks!.
> 
> P4V:


Like these? 










If so, they don’t go to anything. Ad I understand they allow for diagnostics of the modules.


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## girdwood (Mar 10, 2004)

01 said:


> Like these?
> If so, they don’t go to anything. Ad I understand they allow for diagnostics of the modules.


Oo, good information. So is that harness completely unnecessary for function then (just for diag)? From what I'm understanding; the ALH ECU runs the cruise control completely by the inputs already in the ECU and the 4 wires for the switches/buttons... if that's the case, I can just make a plug on the ALH harness to plug into the the stalk. Thanks!


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

Random thermostat question. I was looking in the Bentley at the thermostat specifications (just because I wanted to see where it opens and closes at). The Bentley says that the thermostat *opens* at 185 F and *closes* at 221 F. My question being: why would the thermostat *close* at a higher temperature than when it opened? My temps are fine (on a hot day in the 90s the car tends to stay around 195-210 unless in stop go traffic. In which case it does not tend to exceed 212-215). I was just genuinely curious because I thought it would be the other way around. Open at a higher temp and close at a lower temp. Anybody know why it is stated like this in the Bentley?


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

popeye775 said:


> Random thermostat question. I was looking in the Bentley at the thermostat specifications (just because I wanted to see where it opens and closes at). The Bentley says that the thermostat *opens* at 185 F and *closes* at 221 F. My question being: why would the thermostat *close* at a higher temperature than when it opened? My temps are fine (on a hot day in the 90s the car tends to stay around 195-210 unless in stop go traffic. In which case it does not tend to exceed 212-215). I was just genuinely curious because I thought it would be the other way around. Open at a higher temp and close at a lower temp. Anybody know why it is stated like this in the Bentley?


I would say it's probably a typo but would have to read the text in context.

I don't think there were any revisions to the Bentley but that could also explain it.

Do you have the paperback version or the CD version?

What engine is it?

What page and paragraph or table are the specifications listed?

Does it say the same thing in the other engine's section?


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

I have a PDF of the Bentley. It is talking about engine code PG. Page 19.3


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> I would say it's probably a typo but would have to read the text in context.
> 
> I don't think there were any revisions to the Bentley but that could also explain it.
> 
> ...


I have a PDF of the Bentley. It is talking about engine code PG. Page 19.3. It does the same thing for the engine code AAA as well. Opens at a low temp and closes at a high temp. Im assuming typo? 


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

popeye775 said:


> I have a PDF of the Bentley. It is talking about engine code PG. Page 19.3. It does the same thing for the engine code AAA as well. Opens at a low temp and closes at a high temp. Im assuming typo?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My paperback Corrado Bentley says the same thing. I didn't find a page of corrections either.

My Scirocco Bentley just mentions the first temperature and says it must be a minimum of 7 mm longer from the cold measurement.

You could heat it up and see if it closes back up at higher heat.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> My paperback Corrado Bentley says the same thing. I didn't find a page of corrections either.
> 
> My Scirocco Bentley just mentions the first temperature and says it must be a minimum of 7 mm longer from the cold measurement.
> 
> You could heat it up and see if it closes back up at higher heat.


I’m not having any overheating issues; was just more curious than anything after seeing that in the Bentley. I was curious about how hot was too hot for my Corrado. That’s why i was checking the thermostat specs in the first place haha. Thank you for the input sir


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

popeye775 said:


> I’m not having any overheating issues; was just more curious than anything after seeing that in the Bentley. I was curious about how hot was too hot for my Corrado. That’s why i was checking the thermostat specs in the first place haha. Thank you for the input sir
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I would put a lower temp thermo fan switch in the rad. Your temp numbers sound like stock thermostat and/or stock fan switch which was always too high in my opinion.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

sdezego said:


> I would put a lower temp thermo fan switch in the rad. Your temp numbers sound like stock thermostat and/or stock fan switch which was always too high in my opinion.


I would imagine both are probably stock. The thermo fan switch I replaced, but replaced with a stock spec part a while ago. I can't speak for the thermostat, but I would imagine it is still stock spec thermostat as well. I will look into a lower temp thermo fan switch!


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

sdezego said:


> I would put a lower temp thermo fan switch in the rad. Your temp numbers sound like stock thermostat and/or stock fan switch which was always too high in my opinion.


Do you happen to know where to get one in the states? 

BBM wants $56 in shipping when the part is only $27 from them. I didn't see it worth double the cost in shipping when I am not that far away from where they are located. I found one from ECS Tuning that is 87c-93c but how much cooler is this than stock, if any cooler at all?


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## T~Roc (Nov 18, 2015)

popeye775 said:


> Do you happen to know where to get one in the states?
> 
> BBM wants $56 in shipping when the part is only $27 from them. I didn't see it worth double the cost in shipping when I am not that far away from where they are located. I found one from ECS Tuning that is 87c-93c but how much cooler is this than stock, if any cooler at all?


Lower temp fan-switch is a good recommendation.
Uncertain for sure, but think my thermostat is a 70C. Basically like running always open.
Won't provide much heat when cold out, but then I don't drive her in winter.
My G60 has been running great.
Awaiting a high-pressure switch for my a/c so I can recharge it and be ready for summer 🏎


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

T~Roc said:


> Lower temp fan-switch is a good recommendation.
> Uncertain for sure, but think my thermostat is a 70C. Basically like running always open.
> Won't provide much heat when cold out, but then I don't drive her in winter.
> My G60 has been running great.
> Awaiting a high-pressure switch for my a/c so I can recharge it and be ready for summer


I can find colder thermostats easily, but the cooler fan switch is posing to be troublesome trying to find haha. I have been considering going colder thermostat


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

They are warmer from the factory for emissions. The ECU is probably also optimized for the higher operating temperature. Back in the stone age when watercooled VWs were new, the hot tip was to replace the switch and thermostat with cooler ones. By the time I got my '88 Scirocco, that was so last year. Even the watercooled performance books said it wasn't worth it to change them. 

You could look up some of the "old" VW performance books from when the Corrado was new. Bentley still sells at least one. I may be misremembering the details.


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## F16Waldo (Dec 24, 2020)

Popeye

I have been researching the same issue with my 92 SLC. Found this article which has lots of good info. At the bottom of page 8, they discuss lower temp fan switches. I found a lower temp switch stateside for about $12 after goggling the part number I needed. There are several places that have them. Got it the other day but haven't put it in yet, however.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

F16Waldo said:


> Popeye
> 
> I have been researching the same issue with my 92 SLC. Found this article which has lots of good info. At the bottom of page 8, they discuss lower temp fan switches. I found a lower temp switch stateside for about $12 after goggling the part number I needed. There are several places that have them. Got it the other day but haven't put it in yet, however.


Thank you sir. Much appreciated! 


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

F16Waldo said:


> Popeye
> 
> I have been researching the same issue with my 92 SLC. Found this article which has lots of good info. At the bottom of page 8, they discuss lower temp fan switches. I found a lower temp switch stateside for about $12 after goggling the part number I needed. There are several places that have them. Got it the other day but haven't put it in yet, however.


Hi sir, relooking at what you had said, you mentioned you had an SLC. I have a G60, would this part number (701 959 481) for the fan switch fit that radiator as well or no? 

The first option mentioned is a 3-pin (same as mine) that is said to only fit early VR's.


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## izcorrado18 (Aug 21, 2005)

popeye775 said:


> Hi sir, relooking at what you had said, you mentioned you had an SLC. I have a G60, would this part number (701 959 481) for the fan switch fit that radiator as well or no?
> 
> The first option mentioned is a 3-pin (same as mine) that is said to only fit early VR's.


Yes, they are the same part number.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

dri0514 said:


> Yes, they are the same part number.


Cool. Thank you guys! Got a colder fan switch ordered up


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

Radiator top hose who also goes to coolant reservoir;
Does G60 and VR6 share the same diameter ? Specifically the connection to radiator neck


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Yes, they use the same neck.


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

sdezego said:


> Yes, they use the same neck.


Perfect! Thanks


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

Hey all, simple question that I just cant find the answer to. The power steering hose connecting to my reservoir and one of the connecting hoses going to the pump seem to be leaking. Its leaking right where it Ts off from the reservoir to go to the pump and the rack. The one that goes to the pump - and the reservoir one - both look to be regular hose but I was curious if there is certain hose I need? I would like to use nylon braided hose, but need to know size and if there’s specific hose i need. I have attached a photo of the house I’m talking about as well! It’s the one on the right side and the one coming off the reservoir










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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

I just purchased a nice clean late charger off eBay, It came with a bunch of stuff: intercooler and tubes, tensioner, CO-Pot, stock pulley, oil line etc. and this odd plate for the bypass. 
Is this a manufactured part or custom? No tube came with it for this.


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

To me, based on the cut surface, how the gasket looks and how the backside looks like, it looks like a custom part.
All of the manufactured ones Ive seen had brass hose nipple in way smaller size and more precise cut edges.
That being said, I have been mistaking before..


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

It was a good haul, in the pic you can see lots of good bits. The bypass plate on the left is really crud, made from cast plumbing pipe. Intercooler has a hole in it, it was off a wrecked 5 speed car. Late case and late displacer.


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

Oekern said:


> Radiator top hose who also goes to coolant reservoir;
> Does G60 and VR6 share the same diameter ? Specifically the connection to radiator neck





sdezego said:


> Yes, they use the same neck.


And now I would like to know the inner diameter of the top radiator hose  !
Also inner diameter of the smaller hose going to coolant reservoir.
Any one know ?


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Off the top of my head I think the id of the hose is 30mm/1.25”


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

Okey, need to know exact tho. Ordering some parts right now to get the black friday discounts and time is running up..
Been googling and was amazed how hard it is to get an answer, been googling the hose, alu rad neck and the alu vr6 Y pice but they all refer to either engine code/type or original part nr.. Found one thread mention 32mm for the upper and 38mm for the bottom, but not confirmed..


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Oekern said:


> Okey, need to know exact tho. Ordering some parts right now to get the black friday discounts and time is running up..
> Been googling and was amazed how hard it is to get an answer, been googling the hose, alu rad neck and the alu vr6 Y pice but they all refer to either engine code/type or original part nr.. Found one thread mention 32mm for the upper and 38mm for the bottom, but not confirmed..


Go measure yours, calipers are a great thing. It might be in my 3.6 build thread.


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

G60ING said:


> Go measure yours, calipers are a great thing. It might be in my 3.6 build thread.


If I could I would ofc. Car is @ winter storage. I´ll look through youre thread. Thanks !


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

Is this G-charger main shaft too far gone to use?
Experts, thanks in advance.


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## DOCorrado (Jun 6, 2020)

Jimweis said:


> I just purchased a nice clean late charger off eBay, It came with a bunch of stuff: intercooler and tubes, tensioner, CO-Pot, stock pulley, oil line etc. and this odd plate for the bypass.
> Is this a manufactured part or custom? No tube came with it for this.


Why would they modify the bypass like this? Obviously I’d never do to mine but I’m really curious/baffled…


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Oekern said:


> If I could I would ofc. Car is @ winter storage. I´ll look through youre thread. Thanks !


Lower return port 37.5mm:










Top Radiator flange 32mm:











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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

G60ING said:


> Lower return port 37.5mm:
> Top Radiator flange 32mm:
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Thank you G60ING ! Very much appreciated


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

Another G-Lader Question
This displacer has very little wear but some pitting on the contact surface.
Will this be a problem?
Cleaned lightly with a Scotchbrite and oil before pic.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

As long as there’s no cracks it’s fine. Magnesium is one of the most corrosion-prone metals known and needs a conversion coat just to keep its electrons from flying away. I believe zinc, the sacrificial gold standard, is more stable than magnesium. Peep some air-cooled 911 forums, I’m sure their magnesium fans have corrosion issues. 

Note: you should never use an abrasive on magnesium because it’ll remove the conversion coat. Put a thin layer of grease on that spot if you’re planning on storing it. In use it won’t matter because it’ll be covered in oil. 

Vapor bags are the way to go for storing metal parts.


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

Boost Tube Bracket/Support?
In the diagram below, I have never seen one of these brackets # 17, and where does it mount on the transmission?
Also where does the lower one mount?


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

mateok said:


> Vapor bags


Those vapor bags are expensive, how about disiccant pouches in a plastic bag?


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

It’s been so long since I played with oem boost pipes I can’t recall using the factory mounts but here is the bracket. It doesn’t go to the transmission. I think the other boost pipe might have routed to the plastic radiator hose holder that I recall being mounted to the stock fan bracket.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

DOCorrado said:


> Why would they modify the bypass like this? Obviously I’d never do to mine but I’m really curious/baffled…


The g lader boost return block off plate was a brief moment where some believed that the return air and the oily residue it carried was not needed to sustain the health of the charger.

This is a modified block off plate that was used for some kind of turbo-like blow off valve kit that eliminated the factory valve on the g60 throttle body. All those g60 blow off kits have disappeared from the market. Not sure why 

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## DOCorrado (Jun 6, 2020)

petethepug said:


> The g lader boost return block off plate was a brief moment where some believed that the return air and the oily residue it carried was not needed to sustain the health of the charger.
> 
> This is a modified block off plate that was used for some kind of turbo-like blow off valve kit that eliminated the factory valve on the g60 throttle body. All those g60 blow off kits have disappeared from the market. Not sure why
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Very interesting ! Thanks!


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

I ran a boost return pipe delete for a few months. With the air venting to atmosphere without a blowoff. I ran a small filter there. This was when I was running a 60mm and air to water intercooler and a dual air filter setup. What a crazy sounding setup. I remember driving my wife to duty at NAS Oceana for the Blue Angles air show and the gate guard was calling it crazy sounding race car. 

Throttle response was instantaneous between the IC and modifying the linkage by a few turns on the return port.


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## Jimweis (Aug 17, 2013)

G60ING said:


> It’s been so long since I played with oem boost pipes I can’t recall using the factory mounts but here is the bracket. It doesn’t go to the transmission. I think the other boost pipe might have routed to the plastic radiator hose holder that I recall being mounted to the stock fan bracket.


It looks like the exact bracket, but not holding a boost pipe.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Jimweis said:


> It looks like the exact bracket, but not holding a boost pipe.


My car started life as a g60, it’s now a 3.6


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

Can anyone please help me with a messurment Of the gap between front of cylinder head and radiator ? (G60 engine) If supplied with photo that would be perfect. 
My car is unavailable @ winter storage…


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

Oekern said:


> Can anyone please help me with a messurment Of the gap between front of cylinder head and radiator ? (G60 engine) If supplied with photo that would be perfect.
> My car is unavailable @ winter storage…


Bumping this


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Oekern said:


> Bumping this


Front the head (bottom of valve cover where it meets head) straight toward to the radiator (and running right next to the coolant sensors on their passenger side), it is 14.75".


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

sdezego said:


> Front the head (bottom of valve cover where it meets head) straight toward to the radiator (and running right next to the coolant sensors on their passenger side), it is 14.75".


Thank you so much sdezego !


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

Question for you all. On my G60, if I wanted to vent the crankcase to atmosphere or to a catch-can, would I just cap off where the crankcase breather hose is going to currently? Also what would need to happen with the sensor? Or would the entire boost return need to come off? Ideally what I was thinking about doing is venting my crankcase to atmosphere or to a catch-can of some sort, but I wasn't sure if the boost return would need to be deleted - don't want to do that - if I could just cap off where it is leading right now, and what would happen with that sensor. Thank you all in advance!


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Not a sensor, it’s a crankcase heater/restricter. Its purpose is to prevent icing during cold weather operation. If your car’s now emission except and you live below the 40th parallel it shouldn’t be a problem removing it.


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## DOCorrado (Jun 6, 2020)

Front badge removal HELP!!
Anyone know how to remove the VW badge from the front grill of a g60? Are they impossible to remove once installed?


















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## corradokook (Mar 24, 2019)

I've not had a need to remove mine, but the Bentley just says "remove emblem" so I assume it's just one of those deals where you need to perhaps use some lubricant and wiggle it out carefully being on the lookout for where it clips together and making sure you clear the clips.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

DOCorrado said:


> Front badge removal HELP!!
> Anyone know how to remove the VW badge from the front grill of a g60? Are they impossible to remove once installed?
> 
> 
> ...


Use 3 small flat screw drivers and a lube.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

It’s definitely friction fit. VW was dealing with all their emblems being stolen to copy the beasty boys music videos. Make sure you set it on a towel if you plan on saving the emblem from scratches.


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## DOCorrado (Jun 6, 2020)

Thanks guys, just thought I’d ask the stupid questions before I start cracking grills lol


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

Question for all the wiring gurus on here: why is it that when I turn my Corrado off, if the fan is still running or the fuel pump after-run is on, that my grounds at the head show that they have a decent amount of resistance? But once the fan is off, or the fuel pump after-run is off, the grounds show they have next to no resistance? I thought grounds were suppose to have next to no resistance, so is there a reason as to why they show resistance when something is still running with the car off? Do they have resistance when the car is running as well?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Is the resistance above 5 ohms? That circuit uses Z2 or fusebox ground (31). There’s 3 ground wires attached to the negative battery terminal - fusebox, ECU, and radiator fan. The last being of some importance to your concern. 

Do you still have the OE MK2 ground wires? Those were garbage from go because they had exposed ends that allowed corrosion to wick under the insulation, plus 30yo now and probably green. You should upgrade to the VR ones and seal the ends if you do.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

mateok said:


> Is the resistance above 5 ohms? That circuit uses Z2 or fusebox ground (31). There’s 3 ground wires attached to the negative battery terminal - fusebox, ECU, and radiator fan. The last being of some importance to your concern.
> 
> Do you still have the OE MK2 ground wires? Those were garbage from go because they had exposed ends that allowed corrosion to wick under the insulation, plus 30yo now and probably green. You should upgrade to the VR ones and seal the ends if you do.


So heres my question then, with the key turned to on or with the car running, what should the ground resistance be to the wires at the head? I have ground wires that are attached to the valve cover. They are brown. The negative battery terminal ground wires have been replaced recently. 


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

To clarify, all my grounds read under one ohm of resistance with care off 


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Not sure I understand your experiment. What I do know, though, is that it’s impossible to test the ground on a live circuit, so you’re losing me with the car running part. 

What the meter is measuring at the ground point is voltage divided by current that’s being passed through the fan & fuel pump - conductors. It’s never going to be zero in that scenario because it’s displaying the measure of return. 

Under an ohm with the car off is fine - NPF.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

mateok said:


> Not sure I understand your experiment. What I do know, though, is that it’s impossible to test the ground on a live circuit, so you’re losing me with the car running part.
> 
> What the meter is measuring at the ground point is voltage divided by current that’s being passed through the fan & fuel pump - conductors. It’s never going to be zero in that scenario because it’s displaying the measure of return.
> 
> Under an ohm with the car off is fine - NPF.


That answers my question! Thank you sir! 


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## DOCorrado (Jun 6, 2020)

Hey guys, I’m having cluster issues and I’m not sure where to start. I have a ‘91 G60 cluster (two LCDs), the speedo works and is accurate, fuel gauge works but shows below actual fuel levels. The tach doesn’t work but at higher RPM it shoots up and gets stuck at about 4300rpm until the RPMs fall back closer to idle when it falls back to zero. 
Using the MFA I can see that the cluster is getting the proper RPM signals. Engine oil temp and ambient temp work properly. 


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

DOCorrado said:


> Hey guys, I’m having cluster issues and I’m not sure where to start. I have a ‘91 G60 cluster (two LCDs), the speedo works and is accurate, fuel gauge works but shows below actual fuel levels. The tach doesn’t work but at higher RPM it shoots up and gets stuck at about 4300rpm until the RPMs fall back closer to idle when it falls back to zero.
> Using the MFA I can see that the cluster is getting the proper RPM signals. Engine oil temp and ambient temp work properly.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Probably a shoot it the dark, but you can check the + connection on the coil as this affects the RPM needle.


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

Does anyone know if the Corrado VR6 radiator be too big/long when using Golf 2 G60 intercooler ?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

DOCorrado said:


> Hey guys, I’m having cluster issues and I’m not sure where to start. I have a ‘91 G60 cluster (two LCDs), the speedo works and is accurate, fuel gauge works but shows below actual fuel levels. The tach doesn’t work but at higher RPM it shoots up and gets stuck at about 4300rpm until the RPMs fall back closer to idle when it falls back to zero.
> Using the MFA I can see that the cluster is getting the proper RPM signals. Engine oil temp and ambient temp work properly.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Is the coolant temp accurate? Both fuel & temp gauges acting wonky points to the voltage stabilizer.


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## DOCorrado (Jun 6, 2020)

mateok said:


> Is the coolant temp accurate? Both fuel & temp gauges acting wonky points to the voltage stabilizer.


The coolant temp is not accurate and the symptoms are the same with both clusters I have so you’re probably correct/on the right track with it being voltage related, thank you! 
Where is the voltage stabilizer located?


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## DOCorrado (Jun 6, 2020)

Oekern said:


> Probably a shoot it the dark, but you can check the + connection on the coil as this affects the RPM needle.


Thank you! I’ll check this as well! 


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## Tommy D (Oct 10, 2000)

Oekern said:


> Does anyone know if the Corrado VR6 radiator be too big/long when using Golf 2 G60 intercooler ?


The VR6 Corrado radiator (US spec, I do not know if they are different elsewhere) will not fit with the Golf G60 frontmount intercooler. 
The Corrado vr6 radiator will work with the Rallye frontmount intercooler due to the Rallye having a slightly wider end tank. The thread linked below shows a Golf g60 FMIC with the Corrado vr6 rad. When I did this swap the Corrado vr6 rad was easy to get brand new from any vendor while the Rallye FMIC & U-bend was hard to get, but now the Rallye FMIC & U-bend are plentiful and new Corrado VR6 Radiators are very hard to find. 



Tommy D said:


> *Re: (brilliantyellowg60)*
> 
> I too run a rallye intercooler, Mr. Force posted a golf g60 intercooler, this is a few inches shorter thats why the VR6 radiator didnt fit.
> Here is a Rallye intercooler with corrado vr6 rad attached. It fits perfect even the srew holes, mounting tabs, etc work together.
> ...











G60 FMIC Ideas


Does anyone have some pics of there G60 setup with an FMIC (preferably with the bumper cover off). Is there room to do a pipe on each side? I have a couple intercooler cores lying around and a ton of misc piping/couplers/clamps, I might try to rig something up, just look for some ideas for...




www.vwvortex.com


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

Tommy D said:


> The VR6 Corrado radiator (US spec, I do not know if they are different elsewhere) will not fit with the Golf G60 frontmount intercooler.
> The Corrado vr6 radiator will work with the Rallye frontmount intercooler due to the Rallye having a slightly wider end tank. The thread linked below shows a Golf g60 FMIC with the Corrado vr6 rad. When I did this swap the Corrado vr6 rad was easy to get brand new from any vendor while the Rallye FMIC & U-bend was hard to get, but now the Rallye FMIC & U-bend are plentiful and new Corrado VR6 Radiators are very hard to find.
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for the answer and pictures Tommy D! Realy nice. I’m going for the Wagner tuning (Not rallye) IC who has different end tanks then stock, but I belive the biggest difference is on the inside, so I’m probably out of luck anyways


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## DOCorrado (Jun 6, 2020)

Anyone know if a radio out of a 93 golf Mk3 will fit in a 91 Corrado G60?


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

DIN = DIN so it will fit (unless the '93 Golf used Double-DIN).

Will it work? Not if it's not AKTIV. I don't know if the Golf got AKTIV or not, but if so, it was likely gone in '93 like with the Corrado.

It also depends on if the '93 Golf used Climatronic which I think came out with OBD-2.

If you can read a Bentley you can rewire the Corrado stereo wiring to use conventional speakers. You might even be able to get by without removing wires (depending how the AKTIV speaker Amp wires are wired).

Compare the '91 Corrado stereo wiring to the '93 Corrado stereo wiring.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

Hey all, quick question. My roof trim/molding is coming up on the passenger side of my Corrado. I have found a lot of aftermarket ones and found DIY solutions to this. The aftermarket ones are rather expensive, so I was thinking about giving the DIY solution of running a bead of black silicone to seal it up a try. Now here is my question: I am planning to - within the next year or so hopefully - to get my car to a shop to get painted. Is siliconing the roof molding even worth doing right now if I plan on getting the car painted within the next year? I know the shop will just have to sand the silicone off so I was curious if it was worth doing or not.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

popeye775 said:


> Hey all, quick question. My roof trim/molding is coming up on the passenger side of my Corrado. I have found a lot of aftermarket ones and found DIY solutions to this. The aftermarket ones are rather expensive, so I was thinking about giving the DIY solution of running a bead of black silicone to seal it up a try. Now here is my question: I am planning to - within the next year or so hopefully - to get my car to a shop to get painted. Is siliconing the roof molding even worth doing right now if I plan on getting the car painted within the next year? I know the shop will just have to sand the silicone off so I was curious if it was worth doing or not.


You are paying for a paint job but can't afford the aftermarket trim sold here?

They will have to remove the residue with solvent because paint won't stick to silicone. Add whatever extra labor it will take to remove silicone. That extra labor cost will probably be more than the cost of NOS trim not to mention aftermarket trim.

I could be wrong. Ask the paint shop if you using silicone right before painting will increase labor costs.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> You are paying for a paint job but can't afford the aftermarket trim sold here?
> 
> They will have to remove the residue with solvent because paint won't stick to silicone. Add whatever extra labor it will take to remove silicone. That extra labor cost will probably be more than the cost of NOS trim not to mention aftermarket trim.
> 
> I could be wrong. Ask the paint shop if you using silicone right before painting will increase labor costs.


I said hopefully paint within the next year or so because I cannot afford to paint it right now, but wanted to try to seal this area sooner rather than later incase I can't get to having it painted within the time period I would like. That is why I prompted the question.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> You are paying for a paint job but can't afford the aftermarket trim sold here?
> 
> They will have to remove the residue with solvent because paint won't stick to silicone. Add whatever extra labor it will take to remove silicone. That extra labor cost will probably be more than the cost of NOS trim not to mention aftermarket trim.
> 
> I could be wrong. Ask the paint shop if you using silicone right before painting will increase labor costs.


But I see what you are saying sir


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

popeye775 said:


> I said hopefully paint within the next year or so because I cannot afford to paint it right now, but wanted to try to seal this area sooner rather than later incase I can't get to having it painted within the time period I would like. That is why I prompted the question.


I don't think there is any chance of damaging your car if the roof trim is deteriorated or even removed.

Mine's in storage so I can't peel the trim off but I have thought of doing just that.

As I recall, there is a pin that sticks up like a nail to hold the trim in place and I'd have to cut that off if I decided to go trimless on the roof.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> As I recall, there is a pin that sticks up like a nail to hold the trim in place and I'd have to cut that off if I decided to go trimless on the roof.


The securing pins are shown in post #74:
(3) FS NEW corrado roof trims - re-pro KARMANNSKI | Page 4 | VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum 

Mine's a '93 so it has a late roof and wouldn't need as much body work to delete the trim. I'd just leave the gutter if I deleted the trim. If it was an early roof I'd probably keep the trim.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> The securing pins are shown in post #74:
> (3) FS NEW corrado roof trims - re-pro KARMANNSKI | Page 4 | VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum
> 
> Mine's a '93 so it has a late roof and wouldn't need as much body work to delete the trim. I'd just leave the gutter if I deleted the trim. If it was an early roof I'd probably keep the trim.


Mine is a 90 haha


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

popeye775 said:


> Mine is a 90 haha
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I just looked at the pictures again and see that they are almost identical. I must have been tired when I looked at them before. I'd probably try to replace the trim also. Mine desperately needs paint so I'll wait until after new paint.


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

My 92 VR6 Corrado just got major engine problem. My son was driving home from school when he lost oil pressure (buzzer went off) and within second(s) engine started to make loud noises before he was able to pull over. Yesterday we looked at the cylinders with borescope and we can see cylinders 2-4-6 have valve marks in pistons, while 1-3-5 do look clean. (Seems that chain skipped teeths on the front camshaft?) At minimum I expect new valves and figure out what caused the oil pressure drop. I'm guessing the oil pump shaft probably snapped but that's to be confirmed if/when I drop the oil pan and remove oil pump. Also, do the head valve guides and valve seats get damaged in these kind of situations? How about lifters and camshaft?

The motor has 212k miles. It is due for second timing chain and clutch job. I just had head gasket, valve guides, valve stem seals and valves replaced in December. That time I was able to check timing chain, guides and tensionr and determined I need to tackle that job soon. Engine have been consuming about 1 quart per 1kmiles in past couple years. I did liqui moly engine flush and added liqui moly ceratek in January that dropped the oil consumption to about half quart per 1kmiles! Engine was running very nicely up to the point of failure. I guess one question I have is that if the failure could be related to the engine flush and Ceratek treatment?

Now I'm debating if I should try fix/rebuild it or is it better to replace the whole engine. I have quote for used ~98kmiles engine with 5year 50kmiles warranty at about ~$1700. I'm sure rebuilding/repair will be less but then I would still have core engine with over 200kmiles... (When I had the head off I did see the cylinders still had visible cross hatching. The leakdown test was still good on all cylinders.) I do not know the condition of crankshaft bearings. (I guess once I pull the pan I can check for any metal shavings in oil and unbolt some crankshaft caps to have a look on the journals.)

So the question: Does it make sense to try further analyze and attempt rebuild this engine or should I just dump it and get replacement?

UPDATE: I pulled oil pan and removed oil pump. Oil pump shaft was good and oil pump turns freely. Pump seems to pump oil normally. I found few plastic pieces of possible chain guide pieces in oil pan and in the oil pump screen. (Not enough to block oil flow.) I'm not sure if these pieces are leftovers from earlier incidents or happend just now. I found no signs of metal pieces or flakes in oil. 

I removed cam cover and noted the two cams are in same time in relation to each other. (So if the jumped teeth, they both jumped the same amount.) Both cams seems to be slightly (~1 tooth) ahead of crank timing. (If they jump teeth should they be lagging?) Upper timing chain is tight and upper chain guide and chain tensioner seemed OK, as far as I can see them without taking off the upper timing cover.

I did leakdown test on few cylinders. (I couldn't freely turn engine over to check all cylinders.) The once I checked were good, including cylinder #4 that I can seen visible valve marks on piston. Maybe after all I don't need to pull the cylinder head!

The question still remains that what caused the sudden oil pressure loss. Engine oil level was near the max mark. Intermediate shaft?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Spun bearing(s), Intermediate shaft failure, blocked oil filter, bits of plastic fouling the oil pump gears. Assuming the collateral damage was the result of low pressure. If not, could just be a bad sensor or the wire is loose. 

Not being able to turn the engine over by hand is troubling, though. Cascading failure is often what happens when complex mechanical components go sideways.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Blocked screen possible if there is any debris.


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

Today's status: I was able to fix the cams timing and now the motor can be turned over. After leakdown testing more cylinders, cylinder #2 definitely does have bent intake valve. That's all I need to know to make decision to pull the cylinder head.

I found two timing chain tensioner rivets from the oil pump screen as well as couple more plastic tensioner bits. Plastic bits were small and just few that I don't think it could have restricted the oil flow. My chain tensioner still has both the upper rivets (the lower ones I cannot see yet) so I believe those rivets are leftover pieces from the previous owner timing chain job.

The upper chain tensioner (early style with metal tensioner) plunger/piston was very far out. I measured it is extended 25mm out. (Excluding the small tip at the top.) Cylinder head was machined 9 mils last time which might add some ~1-2mm extra travel on chain tensioner. It does look clear the chains have been stretched quite a bit and must be replaced now. I'm speculating that maybe the plunger did reach its max excursion and maybe it was about to pop out causing the oil pressure loss? Is that possible?

I took out oil filter and it looked good. No metal shavings and it was all in one piece. I don't expect any oil filter material had gone loose to system and plugged any oil galleys.

Talking about oil pump: This seems to be original pump. I see no signs of cracks. As said before it spins freely and smoothly. Is there any reason to suspect oil pump could be faulty?


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## corradokook (Mar 24, 2019)

I tend to think the upper tensioner doesn't last as long as the guides do, and should be checked on and replaced if sketchy at regular intervals like 50k miles or something. Any issue with the upper tensioner will cause long term issues with the guides. I wonder if it was stuck in an extended state, and put too much tension on the chains/guides, or due to other factors, couldn't extend enough to keep proper tension over time and skipped a tooth. But if that was the case, I'd think you'd hear the chains rattle before it goes kablooey. What oil were you using? Any chance the tensioner got stuck due to an additive?


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

matsavol said:


> Talking about oil pump: This seems to be original pump. I see no signs of cracks. As said before it spins freely and smoothly. Is there any reason to suspect oil pump could be faulty?


Check it.


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

I had Castrol synthetic 5W-40 oil. Oil was changed ~1200 miles ago.

I got to a point to pull the head. After I took the upper chain guide off I just now realized the bottom tip of the guide from the hook part down had snapped off! I see a piece of it down there near the intermediate sprocket. I couldn't get it out yet but will try again tomorrow. If we assumed a piece of the guide dropped between the sprocket and chain that would cause the cams jump time to advance direction?

I should get the head off tomorrow to asses the engine overall condition to decide about rebuilding or replacing.

Now that I'm getting closer to start ordering replacement parts what are the recommendations? I assume the new style plastic tensioner is recommended over the old metal versions?


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## corradokook (Mar 24, 2019)

Did you take a look at the upper tensioner? I wonder if it will depress with a poke in the middle with a thin needle. Many have had guides break before without an engine failure, sometimes driving for years, but I guess it's possible for something to jam and pull the timing out, although it seems unlikely, since it's mostly just plastic.


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

I got head out and can see cylinder #2 intake valve is bent very noticeably. All other valves in all other cylinders do look straight. I didn't notice any damage in the lifters.

Pistons do have slight polished spots in areas where they hit valves. No burrs or pits. To me that's just cosmetic issue and no need to replace pistons.

The upper chain tensioner did look normal: The plunger does go in with a wire pushed to the middle. After taking it apart and looking at the mechanism it looks like it was very close to the maximum usable extension. Maybe it could have extend out another 2mm the most.

Overall it does look like engine rebuilding is the best option. 

I'm looking at the timing chain parts and debating what brands I should buy. I don't want to go VW dealer to get all OE parts with huge $$$, but get good (OE like) quality parts to last a long time. At first I'm looking at IWIS chains and Febi and/or OE guides and tensioner parts. The upper chain guide seems best available from Uroparts but that one I'm a bit concerned...

The upper chain tensioner I plan on using the new (plastic) style with new tensioner bolt. (In my timing chain cover the tensioner bolt threads go all the way through. )

And while there obviously clutch, pressure plate, flywheel and release bearing will be done same time: Sachs or Luk I guess are safe choices? I'm also thinking about using lighter flywheel to get more rev happy engine... pro's and con's of doing that?

UPDATE: I have removed transmission, clutch, flywheel and lower timing cover. I found the lower chain tensioner is broken, the plastic piece cracked into two pieces. I think that is the root cause for the timing jump.

LAST UPDATE: Corrado is put back together with with new timing chains, tensioners, guides, flywheel, clutch, etc. When I compared the old and new chains there was very little stretching on the old chains... Seems the chains do last long but it is just the tensioner and guide rails that are the weak spot. After first start and short drive Idle is a little rough (like one cylinder misfire) when engine is not yet up to temperature. It gets better when engine gets warm/hot. I'll give it couple days to settle before diagnosing.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

Hey all, quick opinion question for you guys. This is my first time going into rebuilding my G-Ladder and I just had a question. I understand the process and the things needing to be done, but it was recommended to me to replace the oil feed line with every rebuild of the charger, so I have one on order but it is very back ordered. It seems as if the oil seals - or at least one of them - are going bad or are bad in my charger as for I have some oil in my charge pipes. Mainly in the elbow connecting to the TB so I am assuming the oil seals are going bad. Now here is my question: I only drive the car a couple-few times a week so will the charger be ok until the oil feed arrives? Or since my oil feed isn't leaking or anything, should I rebuild the charger and clean my current oil feed out and just replace it once I get the new one? 

Thank you all in advance


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Ever wonder who started the “always change the oil feed line” recommendation? It wasn’t Volkswagen because the G60 was never meant to be serviced. I’d imagine it was the same people selling those lines with no data whatsoever to back it up. 

I have a customer that comes in every 3K miles to get his oil changed. It costs him parts and labor ~$200 each time. I’ve explained to him that Volkswagen knows more about his engine than both of us and they say 10K miles or one year. Point being, it’s illogical for him to do that, but it makes him feel better, so no harm done. 

Pour a solvent in one end of the line and If it comes out the other side it’s fine. If it makes you feel better to wait for the replacement then again, no harm.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

I’ve replaced mine once. It was, ironically, the dealership that recommended it to CYA because they were installing a TEC gt1. So, in 30 years I’ve replaced it once.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

Sounds good, thank you guys! I will rebuild the charger within the next week and test that the line isn't clogged or anything like that. Any particular solvent or just anything that can go through the line?


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

You want to use something that cleans oil and evaporate 100% so that you are sure the cleaner does not leaves any.
Its been so long since I had the supercharger so I cannot recall what material is inside the feed line. Brake cleaner is great, but might be harmful if its rubber inside.
Nylon should be ok.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

Oekern said:


> You want to use something that cleans oil and evaporate 100% so that you are sure the cleaner does not leaves any.
> Its been so long since I had the supercharger so I cannot recall what material is inside the feed line. Brake cleaner is great, but might be harmful if its rubber inside.
> Nylon should be ok.


Thank you sir! 


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Oekern said:


> You want to use something that cleans oil and evaporate 100% so that you are sure the cleaner does not leaves any.
> Its been so long since I had the supercharger so I cannot recall what material is inside the feed line. Brake cleaner is great, but might be harmful if its rubber inside.
> Nylon should be ok.


It is indeed nylon center. Very small diameter. Brake cleaner, etc is fine to use.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

Another question for you all. Does this apex strip seem to be fitting correctly? It has a new ondular washer and everything, it just seemed like it fit more loosely than the others? Its the first one i poke that’s the one in question

 https://youtube.com/shorts/WQLsMNJvZlk?feature=share 


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

popeye775 said:


> Another question for you all. Does this apex strip seem to be fitting correctly? It has a new ondular washer and everything, it just seemed like it fit more loosely than the others? Its the first one i poke that’s the one in question
> 
> Loose apex strip?
> 
> ...


The Apex strips with the springs below them should spring up and down. If not, then there is a problem that needs to be rectified VERY CAREFULLY, by tweaking the channel where something likely dented a wall and caused the tolerances too close. OR, the end of the other one shows that it is either loo long or too tight. The one you are pushing up and down is proper.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

sdezego said:


> The Apex strips with the springs below them should spring up and down. If not, then there is a problem that needs to be rectified VERY CAREFULLY, by tweaking the channel where something likely dented a wall and caused the tolerances too close. OR, the end of the other one shows that it is either loo long or too tight. The one you are pushing up and down is proper.


So if it does NOT spring up and down at a point then it may be too long? The other one i was poking at has a tight point to where it doesnt budge at all


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

popeye775 said:


> So if it does NOT spring up and down at a point then it may be too long? The other one i was poking at has a tight point to where it doesnt budge at all
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I only mention too long because that one is stuck near the end. The "good" strips don't need to be trimmed "usually". You will need to assess carefully. If any part fo the strip is "stuck" that is a problem that needs rectifying.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

sdezego said:


> I only mention too long because that one is stuck near the end. The "good" strips don't need to be trimmed "usually". You will need to assess carefully. If any part fo the strip is "stuck" that is a problem that needs rectifying.


Got it. Should the strips slide right into the grooves? Or should they have to be somewhat forced in? I only ask this because a couple of them did not freely go in. They seemed too long, unless they were almost forced in making it seem too tight at the ends which seemed wrong in a way if that makes sense


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

If there is any point in the channel that does not slide right in (when lined up correctly), then that needs to be rectified first. Then determine if anything needs to be trimmed.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

sdezego said:


> If there is any point in the channel that does not slide right in (when lined up correctly), then that needs to be rectified first. Then determine if anything needs to be trimmed.


I will take a photo of it when I get off of work. If I try to slide the apex strip in from one side to the other, there is a good 1/8th inch or so of the strip that does not fit in the channel and sticks out the other end where the channel ends


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

The apex strip is 1.35mm wide and it just so happens that the smallest micro flathead screwdriver is 1.3mm wide. It fits in the channel perfectly and will snag on any area that’s even slightly bent. It’s like running a feeler gauge in the scrolls. 

These are untouched factory original apex strips for reference on the ends. Nasty how perfect they are. Admittedly, I was never that precise. That’s the OE displacer from my car removed at 68K miles - making zero boost.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

Here is how the strip looks if i just try to slide it in place with no forcing or anything like that. Theres that much strip left over. There are a couple of hard spots - will upload another video - that make it difficult to seat the strip to assuming the casing wall could be a little bent?










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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

Heres the video. 

 https://youtube.com/shorts/LQkXU3KobK4?feature=share 


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## SorryBro (Feb 9, 2021)

popeye775 said:


> Here is how the strip looks if i just try to slide it in place with no forcing or anything like that. Theres that much strip left over. There are a couple of hard spots - will upload another video - that make it difficult to seat the strip to assuming the casing wall could be a little bent?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Wrong or right and I am sure I will get much feedback on this answer for you, however I have rebuilt a few superchargers and at least 2 for my own car so from my experience rebuilding the G60 chargers the diffuser strips never fit 100%. The housing side strips are always pretty spot on in length, but the diffuser strips are never correct I always end up using a pair of side cutters to trim the apex strip to fit. The strip cuts easily and clean with side cutters and you can even use some very fine grit sand paper to round off the end of the strip if you don't like the square end. This being said I have not had any issues with trimming the apex strips in this way for my rebuilds and like I said I have had to do this on everyone of the rebuilds I have done to date.
Just be sure to do the 300 mile break-in below 3,000rpm and the strips should wear and seat properly never had any issues with boost after that with a 68mm pulley usually about 13-14psi after break-in. Good luck with your rebuild and don't over think it too much 30 years ago the design was very mechanical and made for easy service and can take some abuse.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

SorryBro said:


> Wrong or right and I am sure I will get much feedback on this answer for you, however I have rebuilt a few superchargers and at least 2 for my own car so from my experience rebuilding the G60 chargers the diffuser strips never fit 100%. The housing side strips are always pretty spot on in length, but the diffuser strips are never correct I always end up using a pair of side cutters to trim the apex strip to fit. The strip cuts easily and clean with side cutters and you can even use some very fine grit sand paper to round off the end of the strip if you don't like the square end. This being said I have not had any issues with trimming the apex strips in this way for my rebuilds and like I said I have had to do this on everyone of the rebuilds I have done to date.
> Just be sure to do the 300 mile break-in below 3,000rpm and the strips should wear and seat properly never had any issues with boost after that with a 68mm pulley usually about 13-14psi after break-in. Good luck with your rebuild and don't over think it too much 30 years ago the design was very mechanical and made for easy service and can take some abuse.


Thank you sir. My biggest concern was messing it up and having to do another after this aha


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## DOCorrado (Jun 6, 2020)

Just curious….what is this and what is it for?











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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

You are at rear bumper passenger side ? Should be for tow hook, but does not look like you have one


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## DOCorrado (Jun 6, 2020)

Oekern said:


> You are at rear bumper passenger side ? Should be for tow hook, but does not look like you have one


Correct rear passenger side bumper…hmm, interesting. Thanks! Anyone got a tow hook? Lol


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

DOCorrado said:


> Correct rear passenger side bumper…hmm, interesting. Thanks! Anyone got a tow hook? Lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Nope, We did not get them in US and I thought all of NA, but could be wrong. US bumpers have an outline groove, but not cutout.


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## DOCorrado (Jun 6, 2020)

sdezego said:


> Nope, We did not get them in US and I thought all of NA, but could be wrong. US bumpers have an outline groove, but not cutout.


Interesting! Thanks and that would make sense, this is a Canadian car which I think puts it in the weird in-between of US and Euro spec Corrado’s 


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

Hey all, does anybody know where - or have any extra - G60 oil feed banjo bolts in the states? I was putting my charger back in the car today, and the banjo bolt connecting to the charger snapped. I found a couple that I could order from Germany, but the shipping cost was rather high for them. Put the total cost to around $50 just for two banjo bolts. I know they are M10 and M8 bolts, but am not sure if there are any other bolts that are compatible - since the one for the charger is a 3 hole bolt - or if there was somewhere else I could get them. 

Thanks in advance guys


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

You should be able to order those from any VW parts department. Hardware is rarely dropped, just not stocked, unless it’s fast moving. Both are still listed as available. 










Take it easy with banjo bolts. The torque is only like 10ft-lbs because it doesn’t take much to crush aluminum washers. Put the head of the ratchet in the palm of your hand and snug it up, that’s 10 all day long.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

mateok said:


> You should be able to order those from any VW parts department. Hardware is rarely dropped, just not stocked, unless it’s fast moving. Both are still listed as available.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


And the one highlighted is the three hole banjo correct? If so, I will call my local VW dealership and see if I can get one from them 


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

I don’t remember which one is which. Did you snap the one on the head or on the G60?


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

mateok said:


> I don’t remember which one is which. Did you snap the one on the head or on the G60?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


On the G60 


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

That’s the one highlighted.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

mateok said:


> That’s the one highlighted.


Awesome, thank you sir! 


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

I actually have one of those. Hit me up if you can’t get one and I’ll send it to you.








See how the holes are oblong now instead of round? That’s the bolt stretch. Banjo bolts should be considered one time use. Get new crush washers, as well.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

mateok said:


> I actually have one of those. Hit me up if you can’t get one and I’ll send it to you.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


My VW dealer has the bolt and the washers! The one for the head looked good and torqued back in same for the oil drain as well. Should I replace those ones anyways? If so, do you happen to have any or know the exact part numbers for those as well? 


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

If it didn’t snap then you’re good to go. I’d watch it like a hawk for a leak if you didn’t replace the crush washers, though.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

mateok said:


> If it didn’t snap then you’re good to go. I’d watch it like a hawk for a leak if you didn’t replace the crush washers, though.


I did not replace the crush washers but I can take them to my local parts store and probably get new ones or if you know the crush washer part number, I’ll call the dealer back and order more aha. But if i call them back I’ll probably order a new banjo for the head as well to be safe. Is that part number just the one above it? Or is that different? 


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## Paddysdub (8 mo ago)

I have a stock gli, i bought an ecu tuned from an 04 5speed gti immo off and it’s an awp. Does it matter about my transmission being a 6spd. Will I be able to plug it right in or should I play it safe and get a proper ecu’s


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## vw16v88 (Oct 4, 2002)

Paddysdub said:


> I have a stock gli, i bought an ecu tuned from an 04 5speed gti immo off and it’s an awp. Does it matter about my transmission being a 6spd. Will I be able to plug it right in or should I play it safe and get a proper ecu’s


I think you posted in the wrong forum?

-Jeff


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## Paddysdub (8 mo ago)

Paddysdub said:


> I have a stock gli, i bought an ecu tuned from an 04 5speed gti immo off and it’s an awp. Does it matter about my transmission being a 6spd. Will I be able to plug it right in or should I play it safe and get a proper ecu’s





vw16v88 said:


> I think you posted in the wrong forum?
> 
> -Jeff


what forum should I be posting in


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

N 900 836 01 looks to be the right hex size banjo for the head but can anybody confirm this is the right part number for the bolt on the head? 


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Paddysdub said:


> what forum should I be posting in


Golf/jetta 4


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

Im struggling to unlock the cable shoes out of the ECU contact. I have a universal tool with 3 squares in different sizes. One of them goes thru but is not hitting the lock. Am I doing it wrong or is there a special type I need ?









Here you can see above the green wire is all the way through, but not hitting the lock..


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

If this is for the ecu connector the tool you need is U shaped and will hit both top/bottom locks at the same time. In a pinch I have bent a paperclip to work.


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

need_a_VR6 said:


> If this is for the ecu connector the tool you need is U shaped and will hit both top/bottom locks at the same time. In a pinch I have bent a paperclip to work.


Yes it is. Thanks ! Do you remember if the locks are symmetrical or not ?
I need this shape if I understand correctly;


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

They are symmetrical. The pic you show would be ok on a male side but for the female side pins it needs to be pretty deep.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

Charger rebuild first start was success today! Charger sounds good and healthy. Had a small seep coming out of the oil drain banjo - the only washer i had to reuse because my local VW didn’t have enough - but i got two more ordered. Since it is my oil drain seeping and not oil feed, would it still be ok to start the break-in miles? Or do i need to wait to replace the washers first? 


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Not the best but you can see how it works, the spaces in the connector body push the tangs on the tool into the barbs on the pin.


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

Awesome! Thank you very much


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

G60 harness. Both these are for fuel pumps ? Both goes to fuse box ?
If so; Who is lift and who is push ? If not - what are they for ?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

No, those are for, Injector Power, O2 Power, Fuel Pump Relay Trigger from ECU, ECU power, etc. Yes both go to fuse panel.

You can ignore my additional comments re: megasquirt or find them useful 

*T3b*
T3b/1 Red/Green #50 Ignition Start Power to ECU= ECU Pin #1
T3b/2 Black/Yellow ECU and ISV power from Digi Relay #87 = ECU Pin #14 (Power MS and ISV)

T1g** Yellow - This is the 4th pin goes to ecu pin 20 Malfunction Light
T3b/3 Black/White Digi Control Relay Turn-On (15 power) #86a = ECU Pin #23 (+12v trig Ecu Relay)

*T3g*
T3g/1 Red/White FP Relay output for O2 Heater Power- Fuse S18 via G1/8 -20a (Power O2 Wideband)
T3g/2 Red/Yellow Fuel Pump Relay (-) Input #85 - ECU Pin # 3 (MS Fuel Pump Trigger)
T3g/3 Red/Yellow FP Relay Out (S15 10a to FP afterRun) to Injector power #87 (Power Injectors +12v)


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

sdezego said:


> No, those are for, Injector Power, O2 Power, Fuel Pump Relay Trigger from ECU, ECU power, etc. Yes both go to fuse panel.
> 
> You can ignore my additional comments re: megasquirt or find them useful
> 
> ...


Awesome ! Thank you so much 
Im walking away from the MS and will get a Maxxecu this time.
The tuner will install it for me, but Im trying to get as much as possible ready for him.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Oekern said:


> Awesome ! Thank you so much
> Im walking away from the MS and will get a Maxxecu this time.
> The tuner will install it for me, but Im trying to get as much as possible ready for him.


He will likely be interested in a lot of those pins


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

sdezego said:


> He will likely be interested in a lot of those pins


Printed it out now! Again, thank you so much


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

Blue fuel line is return and black is feed, correct ? (G60 if it matters)

Also; When airing clutch, does the car needs to be level ? (Aka down on all four wheels)
Would I mess up if I try airing it when on jack-stands in front but not in rear ?
I cant recall how the clutch feel was and I might suspect its a bit too soft. (Aired on jack-stands in front only)


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

White is feed and Blue is return. Pressure/reverse bleeding is best for a clutch. I’ve always gotten a better pedal doing that as opposed to pumping. The angle doesn’t matter, like with the brakes, as long as the fluid covers.

Black fuel lines white & blue stripes on them, that is.


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

mateok said:


> White is feed and Blue is return. Pressure/reverse bleeding is best for a clutch. I’ve always gotten a better pedal doing that as opposed to pumping. The angle doesn’t matter, like with the brakes, as long as the fluid covers.
> 
> Black fuel lines white & blue stripes on them, that is.


Thanks ! 
I did push oil through the slave rather then bleeding it, but it did not work as good as last time I did it. So did som regular bleeding as well. This made me think about if the angle of the car would matter.


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

What does this valve do ? Pressure valve of some sort ?
Is this something that can be delete without issues ?


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

Oekern said:


> What does this valve do ? Pressure valve of some sort ?
> Is this something that can be delete without issues ?


No need to delete, found a way. Now, does this need to sit in a certain position ?
Now the small/big hose is side by side. iirc the smaller hose outlet was on top an bigger on bottom before.
I cannot find this thing in the Bently.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

That’s a MK2 recall part intended to keep the heater core from exploding, so not in the Bentley. In the US both models suffered the same fate, but an inline throttle was used instead. 

Unnecessary if you install an all-metal heater core & blue reservoir cap. I’ve actually gotten away with a revised plastic core and cap for 20 years.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

mateok said:


> That’s a MK2 recall part intended to keep the heater core from exploding, so not in the Bentley. In the US both models suffered the same fate, but an inline throttle was used instead.
> 
> Unnecessary if you install an all-metal heater core & blue reservoir cap. I’ve actually gotten away with a revised plastic core and cap for 20 years.


Interesting, I have never come across that one, but have come across the internal restrictor.


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## The Dubbernaut (Feb 1, 2010)

I have a 90 G60 parts corrado. Got it on the cheap because the guy sideswiped a parking block and said he rammed an axle into the trans and broke some internals. My question to you all is, what trans mates to the G60? I swear I found a trans list for the 8v engines on here but it’s been years and I can find it. Or, when I get the engine and trans pulled, if the case itself isn’t broken, can I buy trans internals anywhere?


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

mateok said:


> That’s a MK2 recall part intended to keep the heater core from exploding, so not in the Bentley. In the US both models suffered the same fate, but an inline throttle was used instead.
> 
> Unnecessary if you install an all-metal heater core & blue reservoir cap. I’ve actually gotten away with a revised plastic core and cap for 20 years.


Oh, thats why i could not find it.
Thanks for the education Mr ! 
My heater core was replaced right after I bought the Corrado, but back in 2008 I did not know what a wrench was and had a colleague of my father to replace it, dont know if it was all metal or not.
Take it as the orientation of it does not matter.


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

The Dubbernaut said:


> I have a 90 G60 parts corrado. Got it on the cheap because the guy sideswiped a parking block and said he rammed an axle into the trans and broke some internals. My question to you all is, what trans mates to the G60? I swear I found a trans list for the 8v engines on here but it’s been years and I can find it. Or, when I get the engine and trans pulled, if the case itself isn’t broken, can I buy trans internals anywhere?


The G60 was delivered with a 02A gearbox.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

Hey all, have a question. My G60 had what seemed to be a leaking oil pan gasket so I replaced it a few months ago. I have driven the car maybe another 150 miles since then and there was no drips or anything like that but when I just checked under the car, I noticed a drip on the ground. I felt oil in only one corner - the back left corner - of the oil pan and that was it. Could the gasket have given out that quickly? I would assume if the pan was warped then it would've started dripping again right away. I checked the valve cover and the oil line for the supercharger and both were dry. I did just rebuild the supercharger and replace all the washers for the oil lines, so could it just be some oil that dripped down the back of the motor running down to the pan? I'm not sure if it makes a difference or not but I do have an ABA bottom end on the car so I am unsure if the ABA is known to drip some oil out of the pan every now and then or not but I wanted to inquire. Now, I do have a minor oil cooler seep, so could it have dripped from the oil cooler to the pan?


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

Does anyone know if the stock G60 radiator is a Hella unit ? 
Does anyone have the part.nr for the stock G60 radiator ?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Oekern said:


> Does anyone know if the stock G60 radiator is a Hella unit ?
> Does anyone have the part.nr for the stock G60 radiator ?


675mm 535121251C
I believe it was Hella, but not certain... I think Hella and Behr have merged long since and some stuff the the heater core was Valeo.


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

sdezego said:


> 675mm 535121251C
> I believe it was Hella, but not certain... I think Hella and Behr have merged long since and some stuff the the heater core was Valeo.


Did G60 came with the 675mm radiator ?? Mine is 430mm (core lenght) total lenght of 520mm
I’m not sure the 675mm core will fit my Wagner tuning IC, but have asked BBM for outside dimensions so I can check. They have an all aluminium verison.
Thats also one thing; is the all aluminium ones that much better? They dont cost that much more then a Hella 430mm stock type radiator.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Oekern said:


> Did G60 came with the 675mm radiator ?? Mine is 430mm (core lenght) total lenght of 520mm
> I’m not sure the 675mm core will fit my Wagner tuning IC, but have asked BBM for outside dimensions so I can check. They have an all aluminium verison.
> Thats also one thing; is the all aluminium ones that much better? They dont cost that much more then a Hella 430mm stock type radiator.


Yes, it did. However, possibly with an Asterisk. All G60s in US were A/C which usually came with the larger radiator. Even A1 SIIs cam with a large rad, Mk2, etc. Just beware that I am referring to US G60 that all had A/C. I may be able to look up "other Markets" in etka, but the G60 came with the largest.
All, AL, yes, better for heat transfer. Longevity? That is to be determined based on build/weld quality. There have been lots of reports on cracking on some all AL rads. Zero thermal transfer in End tanks on stock Rad, but AL, there surely is.

675 must be on sharp angle to fit. Thats whey there are so many mount configs on upper/lower Rad supports. G60 vs Vr vs other markets, etc. Rallye Golf (non-AC) used a small rad to fit betweem the large front mount iC. just FYI


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

sdezego said:


> Yes, it did. However, possibly with an Asterisk. All G60s in US were A/C which usually came with the larger radiator. Even A1 SIIs cam with a large rad, Mk2, etc. Just beware that I am referring to US G60 that all had A/C. I may be able to look up "other Markets" in etka, but the G60 came with the largest.
> All, AL, yes, better for heat transfer. Longevity? That is to be determined based on build/weld quality. There have been lots of reports on cracking on some all AL rads. Zero thermal transfer in End tanks on stock Rad, but AL, there surely is.
> 
> 675 must be on sharp angle to fit. Thats whey there are so many mount configs on upper/lower Rad supports. G60 vs Vr vs other markets, etc. Rallye Golf (non-AC) used a small rad to fit betweem the large front mount iC. just FYI


Thanks!
I did not know that regarding the US modell. I got the outside messurments from BBM, and it does not look like it will work. My local VW dealer did find me some oem numbers, its 535 121 251B that is the 430mm for PG. No one locally has it, but I do find a Hella unit online corresponding to this oem nr. Think ill go this route for the ease of things! Again, thank you Sir!


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

Does anyone have a measure of the distance from outside door sheet metal to the window when rolled all the way down in the door ?
Trying to figure out how deep speaker I can use.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

The Dubbernaut said:


> I have a 90 G60 parts corrado. Got it on the cheap because the guy sideswiped a parking block and said he rammed an axle into the trans and broke some internals. My question to you all is, what trans mates to the G60? I swear I found a trans list for the 8v engines on here but it’s been years and I can find it. Or, when I get the engine and trans pulled, if the case itself isn’t broken, can I buy trans internals anywhere?


Here is an old list of 02a and 02j gear ratios that I did years ago it’s still relevant info. My suggestion is get a mk4 20v 5spd with a 3.6 final drive. 









02a/O2A Gearing/Gear ratios, $Prices$, and other helpful...


I like to cruise through the http://www.kraftswerk.com site for various questions I might have from time to time. I used their site to learn about what transmissions were readily available in various cars and what gearing they had. Also I used their rebuild prices to weigh out my options of...




www.vwvortex.com


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## 95raddo (May 24, 2002)

Anyone ever see an AC pressure switch fail like this? Was driving home from work. Heard a loud pop. Thought it was a backfire. Car continued to behave normally but AC stopped blowing cold. Get home and check under the hood and found the switch was in pieces.









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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Not specifically like that, but part of the reason that We finally sold our original 1990 G60 way back in the day is that early pressure switches would fail consistently and there wasn't a real solution...

Back then the pressure switch (no aftermarket) was like $130 + R12, do the math...

I have had a later one fail like yours but it was because the system was over charged. I have to believe that's the case here, but regardless High side pressure went through the roof.

Overcharged, Fan not working properly, temp switch went screwy, evap froze and capillary tube did not shut system down, etc, etc...

I guess I should have asked before assuming, did it dump the refrigerant?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

G60ING said:


> Here is an old list of 02a and 02j gear ratios that I did years ago it’s still relevant info. My suggestion is get a mk4 20v 5spd with a 3.6 final drive.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yup, that's a great one for sure!


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

Hey all. What’s the symptoms of a blown supercharger? I rebuilt mine a few months ago - put ~230 miles on it so far and haven’t gone passed 3.5k rpms not gone passed half throttle. A weird noise came up the other day that almost sounded like a metal on metal nose somewhat. Sounded like it was coming from the front of the car in the area of the supercharger and alternator. I took the belt off and spun everything by hand to see how it all felt. The supercharger spun freely with no noise, and the alternator squeaked a bit while turning. So I’m curious what the symptoms of a blown charger looks like. I have no smoke out the tailpipe, nor do i have metal or anything in the charge pipes. My only other idea - if not alternator - is p/s pump. That pump has been going out for a couple years at this point so it wouldn’t surprise me but could this be the reason it could be making that noise? 


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Try starting car with V belt off, if no Noise, then it's likely PS pump (or H2O). If noise is still there start it with Serp Belt off.

I have had PS pumps go bad (Bearing) and they can make quite a racket

1st indication of charger is lost boost. If you spun it by hand and it was smooth then it might not be that. You can pull off outlet and look for Apex strips if all else fails.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

sdezego said:


> Try starting car with V belt off, if no Noise, then it's likely PS pump (or H2O). If noise is still there start it with Serp Belt off.
> 
> I have had PS pumps go bad (Bearing) and they can make quite a racket
> 
> 1st indication of charger is lost boost. If you spun it by hand and it was smooth then it might not be that. You can pull off outlet and look for Apex strips if all else fails.


Thank you sir. I will pull off that V belt and test the theory and report back!


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

Took the V belt off and the sound was gone from what it sounded like. I ran the car for a couple minutes and i couldnt hear the sound so I’m going to plan to replace the power steering pump and hope that does it. I have a brand new one waiting to go in. Was just waiting on trying to find the bracket the pump itself mounts to because the pulley is stuck on the pump and I can’t get to the mount bolts. So I’ll start there. If it comes back, I’ll check on the water pump. I have no leak, no over heating, nothing like that. The p/s pump has been going out for a couple years so ill start there! 


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

popeye775 said:


> Took the V belt off and the sound was gone from what it sounded like. I ran the car for a couple minutes and i couldnt hear the sound so I’m going to plan to replace the power steering pump and hope that does it. I have a brand new one waiting to go in. Was just waiting on trying to find the bracket the pump itself mounts to because the pulley is stuck on the pump and I can’t get to the mount bolts. So I’ll start there. If it comes back, I’ll check on the water pump. I have no leak, no over heating, nothing like that. The p/s pump has been going out for a couple years so ill start there!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sounds like the PS pump then  Gooder news


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

sdezego said:


> Sounds like the PS pump then  Gooder news


To be safe, i checked the charger pipes for any metal or any seals or anything and there was nothing thankfully. IF the charger is being oil deprived, how quickly would it be destroyed? Im not saying mine is, but im still waiting on my oil feed from BBM that I had ordered in April


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

There’s two oiling systems for a G60. The feed line that sends a very, very small about of oil to the main bearing and the boost return system that sends diverted air back into the charger. 

The oil that coats the inside of the charger and eventually pools in the boost tubes is from diverted air. That’s not an indication of a blown charger. The G60 doesn’t have a PCV valve because the charger itself is an emission control devise. 

The oil return hose isn’t for returning oil sent by the feed line. It’s to drain the catch-can, aka the G60.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

mateok said:


> There’s two oiling systems for a G60. The feed line that sends a very, very small about of oil to the main bearing and the boost return system that sends diverted air back into the charger.
> 
> The oil that coats the inside of the charger and eventually pools in the boost tubes is from diverted air. That’s not an indication of a blown charger. The G60 doesn’t have a PCV valve because the charger itself is an emission control devise.
> 
> The oil return hose isn’t for returning oil sent by the feed line. It’s to drain the catch-can, aka the G60.


Thank you for the reply sir, so if the oil feed line was clogged at all, would the charger go out immediately? Or would it go out over time and start making noises and such? 


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

I’m not sure how long it would last without oil. I’ve run the engine with the feed line disconnected and was so disappointed with the drip of oil that I used a Mercedes oil line instead. I was a little concerned that the increased flow would blow the seal out, but it was fine.

You’re a little freaked because you did the work and it was your first time. That’s understandable. If you pre-oiled the bearing, verified flow by shooting WD-40 into the line, and didn’t block any oil holes when installing then that’s all you can do, right? 

We always assumes the worst, but the noise is usually - water pump, power steering pump, idler pulleys, a/c compressor, alternator, crank bolt, etc. Noises bounce all over the place in an engine compartment. You need a stethoscope. It’s quite obvious when you touch the offender with that.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

mateok said:


> I’m not sure how long it would last without oil. I’ve run the engine with the feed line disconnected and was so disappointed with the drip of oil that I used a Mercedes oil line instead. I was a little concerned that the increased flow would blow the seal out, but it was fine.
> 
> You’re a little freaked because you did the work and it was your first time. That’s understandable. If you pre-oiled the bearing, verified flow by shooting WD-40 into the line, and didn’t block any oil holes when installing then that’s all you can do, right?
> 
> We always assumes the worst, but the noise is usually - water pump, power steering pump, idler pulleys, a/c compressor, alternator, crank bolt, etc. Noises bounce all over the place in an engine compartment. You need a stethoscope. It’s quite obvious when you touch the offender with that.


Got it. Sounds good! I will invest in a stethoscope then aha. Thank you sir


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## F16Waldo (Dec 24, 2020)

Looking for confirmation of suspected leak issue and any tips/tricks to make the job easier. 
In the attached pics you can see coolant on the block that houses where the started is attached. That puddle took about 2 minutes to get to that size. In the 2d, darker picture, there is a little coolant on top, rear of the thermo housing, but it appears to be stagnant/old. Unfortunately, I can't find the leak itself. Under sides of hoses, covers, sensors are all dry, leading me to believe it is the gasket between the block and the housing. Here are my Qs:
1) Is there another leak source that I might be overlooking?
2) Searched online and found this video, does this depict a good flow on how to do the job? Anything else you would add or delete from steps shown? 




3) Any special type of gasket or supplier? This something to purchase from specialty guy (e.g. ECS) or Autozone good enough? 
4) Guessing gasket is paper? Use gasket sealant or not? If yes, what kind?

Background. I am new to the VR6 and have had the car for about 2 years now. PO had replaced the crack pipe, housing, thermostat, hoses and water pump shortly before I bought the car so not planning on pulling the crack pipe or do more than fix the leak.

Thanks in advance for the help!


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## F16Waldo (Dec 24, 2020)

Link didn't work, this is title of the youtube video
*VW A2 (CR): Corrado VR6 Thermostat Housing & Coolant Pipe Removal (part 1)*


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

The black screen has a link in it to "Watch on YouTube". Other than that, I can't help you. The video wasn't very useful. It would be better to use the Bentley manual to see how to remove everything. If that fuzzy thing is your crack pipe, I'd replace it. 

You could use an automotive borescope to see around everything better. There is one that is on the end of a USB cable with a mobile app I saw advertised on Facebook the other day. It uses a smart phone as the monitor. I didn't get it because my so-called "smart phone" doesn't have a USB port.


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## F16Waldo (Dec 24, 2020)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> If that fuzzy thing is your crack pipe, I'd replace it.


Got the Bentley...lots of schematics and singular actions (e.g. how much torque for the bolts) but IMHO lacking in step by step on "how to" from start to finish. The fuzzy grey thing is actually part of the wiring harness on the driver side of engine. That photo taken from side and looking at back side of thermo housing at the block. "Puddle" photo from the front.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

My Bentley is locked up for the night but there should be a page in the engine section showing how to remove the crack pipe and thermostat, etc.. You want the AAA section. I remember lots of detailed removal steps. The replace steps are usually do the removal steps backwards then torque stuff. 

It's not really called a "crack pipe' so you won't find that in the index. Look for thermostat AAA engine. 

Last night I also remembered an important step to tracing leaks. Clean it first. If you can, steam clean it or pressure wash it. Protect any electrical stuff or you will be opening it and drying it out. 

The big round connector likes to collect corrosion. I opened and sprayed mine liberally with contact cleaner and let it air dry. I was having intermittent running problems before spraying it.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

popeye775 said:


> Took the V belt off and the sound was gone from what it sounded like. I ran the car for a couple minutes and i couldnt hear the sound so I’m going to plan to replace the power steering pump and hope that does it. I have a brand new one waiting to go in. Was just waiting on trying to find the bracket the pump itself mounts to because the pulley is stuck on the pump and I can’t get to the mount bolts. So I’ll start there. If it comes back, I’ll check on the water pump. I have no leak, no over heating, nothing like that. The p/s pump has been going out for a couple years so ill start there!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Careful with the v-belt on the ps/wp too much tension and the waterpump will typically go first. When I ran the g60 I became a fan of ever so slightly under tensioning the v-belt. Sometimes on rainy days it would slip a little but that sure beats replacing a waterpump prematurely. Ask me how I learned that lesson


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## jrzfly (7 mo ago)

asking for a friend. Can you change sunroof motor without taking headliner apart and removing pasat type sunroof?


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## F16Waldo (Dec 24, 2020)

What is this sensor? Can't find it on page 24-330-1 of the Bentley. I think it is item #6 on page 24-360-1, but it is only listed as a harness connector. It appears to be part of the crankcase housing ventilation system? (yes, the brown wire was broken when I took the pic)


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Its the pcv heater element


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## jrzfly (7 mo ago)

Can you change sunroof motor without taking headliner apart and removing the whole pasat type sunroof?


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## bmxSLC (Feb 1, 2004)

jrzfly said:


> Can you change sunroof motor without taking headliner apart and removing the whole pasat type sunroof?


Yes you can. There is a cover specifically covering the sunroof motor that houses the dome light and the sunroof controls. Two screws and the motor is visible. Two more and you should be able to remove the motor.


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

In my 1992 VR6 I had my Aux water pump jammed and motor burnt, and 5A fuse blown on the Fan control module. I found the aux coolant pump impeller was clogged/jammed with these plastic pieces. For scale the strips are about 3mm wide:








I have no idea where these could have come from? The only thing I can think is that they are from the main water pump: It started to make noise about a week ago and I replaced it today.

Few months back I had cylinder head off and I recall seeing short piece of similar strip in the cylinder block coolant jacket...

Anyone has idea where these could have originated?


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## Tommy D (Oct 10, 2000)

matsavol said:


> In my 1992 VR6 I had my Aux water pump jammed and motor burnt, and 5A fuse blown on the Fan control module. I found the aux coolant pump impeller was clogged/jammed with these plastic pieces. For scale the strips are about 3mm wide:
> View attachment 209573
> 
> I have no idea where these could have come from? The only thing I can think is that they are from the main water pump: It started to make noise about a week ago and I replaced it today.
> ...


These kind of look like the internal spirals of the heater cores that i have seen before.


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## matsavol (Jul 26, 2015)

Tommy D said:


> These kind of look like the internal spirals of the heater cores that i have seen before.


That does make sense. I found those are called turbulators. Thanks for the info.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

Does anybody if the Standard Motor Products S-745 fits for a 1990 Corrado G60 hall sensor/distributor harness connector? If not, does anybody know where I can get the harness connector for the distributor? I couldn't really see the part number on the boot for it


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

The Part number on the Boot is only for the boot. There is a PN on the plastic Conenctor. I can look it up but not near ETKA RN.

I try not to buy ANYTHING Std Motor Prod or Dorman


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

sdezego said:


> The Part number on the Boot is only for the boot. There is a PN on the plastic Conenctor. I can look it up but not near ETKA RN.
> 
> I try not to buy ANYTHING Std Motor Prod or Dorman


Ahhh gotcha. That would be extremely helpful! 


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

popeye775 said:


> Ahhh gotcha. That would be extremely helpful!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Most likely the connectors you have seen are Bosch EV1 (common for Injectors and lot of the other common 3 pin plugs)

The Dist 3 pin connector is (common to a TON of other VWs so remember that first 3 digits is usually just model number). The actual # off of the connector (Verified on a G60 Harness is the 052), but see both links below as reference.

*052 905 327*

3-Pin Female Distributor Connector Volkswagen 1234485024 357905327 | eBay

Distributor Wiring Pigtail Plug Harness VW Jetta Golf Corrado Vanagon 052 905 32 | eBay


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

sdezego said:


> Most likely the connectors you have seen are Bosch EV1 (common for Injectors and lot of the other common 3 pin plugs)
> 
> The Dist 3 pin connector is (common to a TON of other VWs so remember that first 3 digits is usually just model number). The actual # off of the connector (Verified on a G60 Harness is the 052), but see both links below as reference.
> 
> ...


Greatly appreciated sir! 


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

The boot part number is different and is probably used on every connector that has the same number of terminals. The boot comes off.

Look on the wire housing (connector). That connector should only be used in one place.

Both part numbers should also be in 7zap but you have to look at every engine wiring harness diagram for your year Corrado.

That harness diagram might not say engine. It's probably part of the ignition harness. Look for engine code PG

electrics Corrado (COR) [USA 1990 year] (7zap.com)

EDIT: As soon as I posted this I saw this has been covered. The 7zap reference is another way to look up parts in the future.


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## dsquared15 (Jan 8, 2015)

2 questions for the experts.

Preliminary info- 92 SLC, swapping to a BDF w/ 02A. Using BDF acc bracket with BDF alt., BDF A/C comp with SLC end cap swapped on to mount OEM SLC lines, and SLC power steering pump. Fabless Manufacturing rear engine and transmission mount and SLC front cross member with OEM mount.

1. The engine sits to high for the hood to close even with the Fabless Manufacturing engine leveling kit. Do I need to shorten the front engine mount?

2. The A/C compressor is a little less than an inch from the OEM front cross member. Does this need to be notched to prevent contact? 

I've read through as many 24v swap threads as I could find but none of this was mentioned (unless I missed it). Any help is appreciated.


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## F16Waldo (Dec 24, 2020)

Gasket Sealant Use Survey.

I am in the process of replacing the Thermostat housing gasket on my 92 VR6. I am considering using a gasket sealant from Permatex, the High Temp Red, item # 81160 which I have had good success with in the past. (it is in the middle, top row of attached) I'm new to the VR6 and want to know what the experts recommend.

My survey Qs are:

1) Do you recommend using a gasket sealant for this application? 

2) If "YES" to question #1, would you recommend using the Permatex 81160? Or something different.

Look forward to hearing what others do for this job. TIA.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

F16Waldo said:


> Gasket Sealant Use Survey.
> 
> I am in the process of replacing the Thermostat housing gasket on my 92 VR6. I am considering using a gasket sealant from Permatex, the High Temp Red, item # 81160 which I have had good success with in the past. (it is in the middle, top row of attached) I'm new to the VR6 and want to know what the experts recommend.
> 
> ...


Sorry I got distracted and forgot to reply. I usually keep some permatex or other brand ultra black in my box for misc jobs but when I start geeking out on longer term engine jobs I like to use Victor Reinz rtv. Victor Reinz 19-10205-01 Engine Oil Pan Gasket Set https://a.co/d/4Q18E5G


If that cyclinder head’s mating for the oring isn’t a nice uniform machine Surface then use a light coat of rtv.


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## Recaro94 (May 27, 2019)

Hi folks. 

The plastic piece under my car (driverside) that connects to the inner fender liner, fell off. What is this piece called and where would I have any luck finding one? Mine is pretty much mangled. 
Is it safe to drive without it? Thanks.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

You didn't say front or rear, left or right, where it attaches or what year Corrado. Since 94 is part of your username, I went with 1994. 

7zab 1994 Corrado body parts diagrams:
body Corrado (COR) [USA 1994 year] (7zap.com)

Enter the part number without spaces in eBay (if you click on the part number, 7zap brings it up in anther tab without spaces). You can also try the VWoA parts website. (No spaces.) It's highly unlikely but they may still make it.

Enter the part number in the upper left:
VW Parts, Accessories, and DriverGear - Volkswagen of America Online Store


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## F16Waldo (Dec 24, 2020)

Howdy...yes me again. Still working on my thermostat housing leak and doing reassembly. Using a gasket kit set from UROTuning and it has 3 coolant sensor rings. However the Bentley only shows 2 rings (referring to the 2 rings in item #6). Which is it? 2 or 3 sensor rings? TIA


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## dsquared15 (Jan 8, 2015)

F16Waldo said:


> Howdy...yes me again. Still working on my thermostat housing leak and doing reassembly. Using a gasket kit set from UROTuning and it has 3 coolant sensor rings. However the Bentley only shows 2 rings (referring to the 2 rings in item #6). Which is it? 2 or 3 sensor rings? TIA
> View attachment 215114


Its both, 1 for the t-stat housing, 1 for the other plastic housing, and 3 sensor O-rings. Its weird that the diagram shows 2 sensors and a blank, my AAA has 3 sensors. Also double check those plastic housings they are prone to cracks and warping.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

Hello again all,

I yet again have a strange noise coming from my Corrado. The noise can be heard right at the end of the video. I have replaced one of the idler pulleys thinking that was the issue, and replaced the power steering pulley because it was warped and looked as though it was rubbing up against the serpentine belt causing the noise. I am unsure what else the noise could be. Maybe alternator bearing? Or the other idler pulley?

Strange noise


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

popeye775 said:


> Hello again all,
> 
> I yet again have a strange noise coming from my Corrado. The noise can be heard right at the end of the video. I have replaced one of the idler pulleys thinking that was the issue, and replaced the power steering pulley because it was warped and looked as though it was rubbing up against the serpentine belt causing the noise. I am unsure what else the noise could be. Maybe alternator bearing? Or the other idler pulley?
> 
> Strange noise


My G60 made that exact same noise once. It was over a decade ago, but IIRC it was the alternator doing it. 

Take the cover off of the alternator and put your hand on its casing and see if you can feel the vibration when it makes the sound.


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

mateok said:


> My G60 made that exact same noise once. It was over a decade ago, but IIRC it was the alternator doing it.
> 
> Take the cover off of the alternator and put your hand on its casing and see if you can feel the vibration when it makes the sound.


Sounds good! I will do that today. Thank you sir! I’m hoping that’s all it is. That or the other idler pulley is my hope


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## F16Waldo (Dec 24, 2020)

2 Part question for the experts (this is for a 92 SLC VR6). 
What does the bleeder valve on the thermostat do? Never seen one on any other car (this is my first 
Is there a correct orientation? My search here has "put at top", "align it with the exit tube" and of course, "it doesn't matter". I believe service manual says to note position on old one, but the one I took out didn't have a bleeder valve.
TIA for the comments/help!


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

F16Waldo said:


> 2 Part question for the experts (this is for a 92 SLC VR6).
> What does the bleeder valve on the thermostat do? Never seen one on any other car (this is my first
> Is there a correct orientation? My search here has "put at top", "align it with the exit tube" and of course, "it doesn't matter". I believe service manual says to note position on old one, but the one I took out didn't have a bleeder valve.
> TIA for the comments/help!


I don't know what TIA means but that hole is so coolant can flow to both sides before the thermostat opens. That reduces burping and taking several heat and cool cycles to burp out the air bubbles. It took me 3 or 4 days of driving and topping up when my '78 Scirocco started overheating. That was around 1983 on a simple coolant system. Years later, I learned to drill a small hole in the thermostat to eliminate that problem. I think that was in an American car magazine like _Hot Rod_. About the same time, thermostat makers started making them with the bleeder holes. 

Sometimes a thermostat needs to be oriented a certain way to clear the bracketry but I think the bleeder hole can go anywhere. If it's on the bottom, coolant will start flowing to the other side as soon as you start pouring it in. 

The flange may block it in certain positions so you also have to check that it is in the coolant path. (If VW didn't use bleeder holes originally, the flange may block that hole.) 

I may be wrong; it may need to be on top for air flow, but I'd put it on the bottom, and I'd also remove the rubber plug (if any) but that's just my opinion. 

I don't know if the bleeder hole is still needed if you have a pressure bleeder machine.


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## F16Waldo (Dec 24, 2020)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> I don't know what TIA means


Thanks In Advance = TIA


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

mateok said:


> My G60 made that exact same noise once. It was over a decade ago, but IIRC it was the alternator doing it.
> 
> Take the cover off of the alternator and put your hand on its casing and see if you can feel the vibration when it makes the sound.


Alternator replaced but sound still seems to persist. I may replace the other idler pulley and then just keep an eye on things. It doesnt overheat or leak coolant so im not suspecting water pump but I’m very unsure what else could be producing this sound. If it still persists i guess i will remove the v-belt from the power steering and water pump and see if the sound STILL persists then


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

An automotive stethoscope placed on the alternator or g lader will determine which one has a bad bearing.

I’m familiar with that sound too. It turned out to be a string of bad alternators rebuilt by Bosch that had cores not worthy of being rebuilt. If it is the alternator get one from the dude in the eBay auction below and call or place in order of notes you want SKF bearings.









Losing Alternator bearings Approx every 1-2 yrs. Anyone...


Volkswagen Alternator versions generator and single single parts for alternator single parts generator parts for vehicles with start-stop for alternator: EKTA (Part #2) shows several versions that VW runs on their cars. Litens OAD Technical Presentation Since I've upped the hp on the G60...




www.vwvortex.com






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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

Thank you sir!

Does anybody know where I can get an upper radiator mount for a G60? Like a whole kit as opposed to trying to piece it all together from separate websites? I am just searching by part numbers currently, but wanted to check to see if anybody knew where to get a full kit


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Are you looking for the Upper Radiator support along with the 2 Mounts with brackets? I probably have everything needed, but need to understand the ask. Can you circle what you are looking for in an image or Pic from 7Zap or ETKA?

Shawn


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## popeye775 (Mar 23, 2019)

sdezego said:


> Are you looking for the Upper Radiator support along with the 2 Mounts with brackets? I probably have everything needed, but need to understand the ask. Can you circle what you are looking for in an image or Pic from 7Zap or ETKA?
> 
> Shawn


Hi sir, this is what I need. Apologies for the confusion 











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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

popeye775 said:


> Thank you sir!
> 
> Does anybody know where I can get an upper radiator mount for a G60? Like a whole kit as opposed to trying to piece it all together from separate websites? I am just searching by part numbers currently, but wanted to check to see if anybody knew where to get a full kit


You’ll likely have to piece that together considering they’re 535 parts. The brackets are CP, so someone on eBay might have them. If you need the bolts the part numbers on 7Zap are old. The superseded one is: N 010 215 33.


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## corrado-correr (Jul 8, 2004)

popeye775 said:


> Hi sir, this is what I need. Apologies for the confusion
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Also available aftermarket.









Radiator Retainers for VR6 and G60


Brand new Stainless steel radiator retainer clips for Left Side and Right Side. These are made of stainless steel rubber bushings. We carry both G60 1.8L and VR6 2.8L Radiator Retainers. G60 are slightly shorter than the VR6. Free shipping in USA. $15 to ship internationally, free shipping...




corradofarmparts.com


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

I did just verify that I have all of those pieces on my parts car. IM sent.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Wow! Almost as nice as an email from Zeb letting you know that VWCP has what you’re looking for and he can solve your parts dilemma.


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## TheLateGTI (Apr 17, 2008)

Coolant temperature issue:
Drove my uncle’s G60 and noticed that his coolant temp gauge got up to 230F and fortunately we were very very close to home. On the way back I just turned the car off and back on and the temp gauge went back down to 190F and stabilized there which makes me think it is some electrical issue.
Any one experience this and how I can further troubleshoot it?

My uncle had passed last year and his sons are turning 16 next year so I just want them to drive the rado reliably considering it only has 90k. 
Going to be maintaining it and working on it with my cousins as something we can do together.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Verify it’s running pink (g12) coolant, not green (g11). The two gel when mixed. Regardless of what it’s running the system should be flushed and new g12 added. VW may be up to g13 now, not sure, but _always_ verify compatibility.

While the coolant is out it would be an excellent idea to remove and hot tank the radiator or replace it if available. The radiator can collect silt between the fins and render its cooling capability useless although everything looks fine.

If you over heat it, you may lose a head gasket, warp the aluminum head and end up with a $2-$4k fix. Address matters quickly.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

I think I am running G13 in my Phaeton.

Check to make sure the coolant is high enough in the radiator to touch the fan switch. Hot air won't turn the radiator fan/s on.

You can turn on the A/C and force the radiator fan/s to come on.


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## TheLateGTI (Apr 17, 2008)

petethepug said:


> Verify it’s running pink (g12) coolant, not green (g11). The two gel when mixed. Regardless of what it’s running the system should be flushed and new g12 added. VW may be up to g13 now, not sure, but _always_ verify compatibility.
> 
> While the coolant is out it would be an excellent idea to remove and hot tank the radiator or replace it if available. The radiator can collect silt between the fins and render its cooling capability useless although everything looks fine.
> 
> ...


It is definitely pink coolant. I can do a flush no problem, but I don’t understand why I turned the car off and back on the temp gauge went back to normal and stabilized.
Thanks for the replies, I just want to nail down this one issue I don’t fully understand. The remaining things to do is flush the brake fluid, change transmission fluid and change engine oil.


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## TheLateGTI (Apr 17, 2008)

That was the fluid I flushed from the clutch line. The shifting was horrible and wouldn’t fully engage. But now with new VW brake fluid in there It shifts like my MK7 GTI.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

I’d try a new gauge CTS. 









Edit: inspect the wires going to both CTS. Those are usually trashed and can cause an intermittent issue, as well.


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## TheLateGTI (Apr 17, 2008)

mateok said:


> I’d try a new gauge CTS.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thank you so much!


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## F16Waldo (Dec 24, 2020)

Recently I have noticed a rattle noise from the passenger side of the car. Thoughts on what it might be? I replaced the tensioner and belt less than 300 miles ago due to issues with the old belt. Is this sound indicative of a bad tensioner? TYIA
Rattle


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Exhaust possibly. The heat shield on cat lost one of its mounting points or you’ve lost an exhaust hanger and the pipe is banging on the car somewhere. Did you ever replace any of the exhaust mounts with the new version that has a chain molded inside the rubber?


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

This is good. The car may have burped up an air bubble from the system. Treat the car to a new coolant overflow cap as insurance. A comprised cap will overheat the car in less than 5 minutes.

You can also let the car idle for 10-20 min with the coolant reservoir cap off, BUT NOT UNATTENDED! It allows air to bleed out of the system. In other words, camp in the drivers seat and watch the temp gauge to be 100% sure the car doesn’t overheat when the cap is off.



TheLateGTI said:


> It is definitely pink coolant. I can do a flush no problem, but I don’t understand why I turned the car off and back on the temp gauge went back to normal and stabilized.
> .



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## F16Waldo (Dec 24, 2020)

petethepug said:


> Exhaust possibly.


I will take a look at that, thanks. This is my first time dealing with any exhaust issues...have only had the car since Jan 2020.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Show up at a Indy muffler shop and offer to buy the owner a burger if he’ll put it up on the rack to find the rattle. Just don’t let them do any work on the exhaust other than tack the heat shield back on. They may want to remove it. That’s your call. I kept mine.

I had a baffle in my rear Autotech muffler go bad. The muffler shop found it by lightly tapping the muffler until you could hear it resonate. It was silent unless the car was moving. The final straw that resolved exhaust noise was a ss 2.5” TT dual Borla system specifically made to run a Corrado VR cat on my g60. It has a VR OEM rear muffler tip welded onto the 2nd Borla at the bumper.


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## JF_T (Aug 1, 2019)

petethepug said:


> Exhaust possibly. The heat shield on cat lost one of its mounting points or you’ve lost an exhaust hanger and the pipe is banging on the car somewhere. Did you ever replace any of the exhaust mounts with the new version that has a chain molded inside the rubber?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


I didn't know about this chain reinforced rubber? Made by VW or aftermarket? Thanks!


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Initially aftermarket, but VW may have adopted it after a decade or two.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

I think the chain filled exhaust hangers were originally made by TT or Autotech. They may still carry them. 

Nope. TT just has the rubber kind or the later kinds and I don't see Corrado and I don't see any on the Autotech site.


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## JF_T (Aug 1, 2019)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> I think the chain filled exhaust hangers were originally made by TT or Autotech. They may still carry them.
> 
> Nope. TT just has the rubber kind or the later kinds and I don't see Corrado and I don't see any on the Autotech site.


Thanks for the precision and looking into it. Now I know for sure!


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

F16Waldo said:


> I will take a look at that, thanks. This is my first time dealing with any exhaust issues...have only had the car since Jan 2020.


Internet diagnosing is impossible with noises. If you want to swing by Sunday I’d be happy to help diagnose.


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## F16Waldo (Dec 24, 2020)

G60ING said:


> If you want to swing by Sunday


Thanks for the offer and I would if I was in town! Unfortunately on west coast until the 6th. Perhaps we can meet up when I return. Cheers.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

F16Waldo said:


> Thanks for the offer and I would if I was in town! Unfortunately on west coast until the 6th. Perhaps we can meet up when I return. Cheers.


Message me and that sounds good


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## bmxSLC (Feb 1, 2004)

Hi everyone! Any suggestions for where to relocate the charcoal canister?


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## GTS3 (Nov 4, 2008)

I need some advice on how to secure the numberplate holder at the rear, I have tried 3 different types of double-sided mounting tape which does not seem to work. I am petrified of breaking it as it is still connected on one side


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

GTS3 said:


> I need some advice on how to secure the numberplate holder at the rear, I have tried 3 different types of double-sided mounting tape which does not seem to work. I am petrified of breaking it as it is still connected on one side


Hmm. Original plastic plate holder ? A good tape should have no problem to bond. Maybe try pre-heating the tape to make it more sticky ?
IIRC you must use a think one/take care to where you put it as the surface is not straight/profiled, again IIRC.
Ive used tape on both original plate holder and SFT plate holder without problems.


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Put this on the plastic first then apply the tape.










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## F16Waldo (Dec 24, 2020)

Question for the experts about the rear motor mount on a 92 VR6. Trying to replace the water pump, which obviously involves removing the motor mount bolts so the engine can be lifted up. The Bentley shows a bolt holding the rear mount in place and no mention of having to remove other items to get at the motor mount bolt. However, it appears on my vehicle that there is a nut that is holding some sort of assembly to the mounting location. Here are my Qs:
1) Am I even looking at the right location? This is the rear motor mount, correct? (see pics)
2) What is the assembly that I am seeing? Any special care required while removing it?

Also, Bentley mentions loosening the transmission carrier, but all the threads I've read here make no mention of the transmission mount. Does it need to be loosened or not?

Thanks in advance!


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

F16Waldo said:


> Question for the experts about the rear motor mount on a 92 VR6. Trying to replace the water pump, which obviously involves removing the motor mount bolts so the engine can be lifted up. The Bentley shows a bolt holding the rear mount in place and no mention of having to remove other items to get at the motor mount bolt. However, it appears on my vehicle that there is a nut that is holding some sort of assembly to the mounting location. Here are my Qs:
> 1) Am I even looking at the right location? This is the rear motor mount, correct? (see pics)
> 2) What is the assembly that I am seeing? Any special care required while removing it?
> 
> ...




The nut holds a bracket that supports the O2 sensor plug, pull that and then use a socket to remove the bolt.


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