# 034 rear sway bar only or H&R front and rear sway bar?



## TRZ06 (Jan 20, 2013)

Now that I have a little over 1000 miles on my car and have pushed it some, there is a lot of understeer and too much body roll. Also no front end bite, just plow. 

I was in an A6 loaner while I was getting my Stasis and even that car had way better front end bite and less understeer. I honestly felt I went down in handling performance getting back into my TTRS. 

I can't decide if I should go front and rear sway bar or just rear. I want to dial out the understeer (rear), but also want flatter cornering all around. 

I also have decided to chuck the stock tires too. RE-11's are on order. 

The TTRS feels great when you drive it mellow, but you start hustling it around and it feels rather sloppy. 

Also what alignment specs should I go to. 

I'm a little dissappointed in how it feels when pushed hard.


----------



## MSS Automotive (Mar 20, 2013)

Interesting after such a short time with the car - I do agree on all points offcourse however would refrain from making this a sales pitch...haha.

RE-11 was on my list however in the UK they are just so hard to get...waiting list is FOREVER...!

Am not a fan of ARBs or RSB...just me for obvious reasons. I see these as a short term fix as a first fit though great fine tuning tools - *IF REQUIRED* - as a last measure to set the car up for YOU.

Alignment that works for me and a few others is the infamous '996CAB' settings as follows...;

*FRONTS*: MAX negative camber you can get -1.3 or more /// TOE 0 or -0.3 MAX (or -1mm MAX across front axle thus -0.5mm each corner)

*REARS*: Leave as OEM thus for me mine is Camber -1.20 /// TOE 0.12 (positive)

Settings are per corner unless stated otherwise. I couple the above now with rotating my tyres between 2.5k to 5k miles to keep tread wear even and works well for me.

My current static alignment is almost as above with the following differences...my FRONT camber is -1.45 and TOE is -0.03 per corner.


----------



## Stevelev (Mar 4, 2004)

^he knows what he's talking about. 

To add to what he has said ... Since an RSB is low cost, it can't hurt to try one out but I wouldn't bother going with a front bar as that may flatten the car at the cost of adding understeer. If I were to do it all over again, I would consider stiffening up the rear suspension (ie: MSS suspension) and add the Upgraded Haldex with a tweak to the alignment as William has suggested. :thumbup:


----------



## carl44 (Nov 23, 2012)

I've set up and tracked @ TTS and RS and did the same as William in the front. In the rear 4WD cars rotate better with very little or no rear toe. On my S that I traded in on the RS I cut the rear toe to about 1mm total and it was a lot better. I'm going to run the RS with what it has now one more time on a tigher track, BW then I may take some rear toe out. I have the front @ 0 and max neg -1.5. I have slip plates , camber and toe gauges plus scales. So I do my own set ups- slow but very accurate . It all started in 1987 with a Carrerra that I took to a dealer for alignment and when I got it back it went down the road sideways (dog tracking) plus they punched a hole in the floor from hitting a lift. Of course they denied it. Carl


----------



## canuckttrs (Feb 5, 2012)

TRZ06 said:


> Now that I have a little over 1000 miles on my car and have pushed it some, there is a lot of understeer and too much body roll. Also no front end bite, just plow.
> 
> I was in an A6 loaner while I was getting my Stasis and even that car had way better front end bite and less understeer. I honestly felt I went down in handling performance getting back into my TTRS.
> 
> ...


 cheapest way to get the handling you want is to add the rsb and change the alignment up. you will have a new car after that.


----------



## LongviewTx (Dec 26, 1999)

I've driven 21 track days since ownership of the TT-RS. I've driven stock and then progressive mods. The 034 Rear TRB and the 034 RSB on soft setting both enhanced to oversteer/rotation and improved the flatness of the chassis in hard cornering. I can't compare to the H&R but in twisties, the car is significantly improved. 

The RE-11's greatly improved handeling as well over the OEM rubber. Is see that Bridgestone has released the RE-11A, with improved rubber formulation. They do get greasier with each lap. Cold days yielded almost prefect grip but on warmer days they do loose some. Staying at 38 psi when coming off track in front and 37 rears. But, the track I am driving has a lot of tight turns, not sure on more sweeping turns what may be best. 

I've added each upgrade separately to gauge the "worthiness" of each and feel 100% sure you will be very satisfied with these modifications.


----------



## [email protected] (Mar 25, 2013)

TRZ06 said:


> Now that I have a little over 1000 miles on my car and have pushed it some, there is a lot of understeer and too much body roll. Also no front end bite, just plow.
> 
> I was in an A6 loaner while I was getting my Stasis and even that car had way better front end bite and less understeer. I honestly felt I went down in handling performance getting back into my TTRS.
> 
> ...


 Good tires and this alignment below...... 



[email protected] said:


> Alignment that works for me and a few others is the infamous '996CAB' settings as follows...;
> 
> FRONTS: MAX negative camber you can get -1.3 or more /// TOE 0 or -0.3 MAX (or -1mm MAX across front axle thus -0.5mm each corner)
> 
> ...


 ...and then, do something about that weight transfer, I can't imagine what you could use for that


----------



## Audi RS3 (Apr 20, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> Interesting after such a short time with the car - I do agree on all points offcourse however would refrain from making this a sales pitch...haha.
> 
> RE-11 was on my list however in the UK they are just so hard to get...waiting list is FOREVER...!
> 
> ...


 Hi! How much you can adjust cambers in original TT RS?


----------



## MSS Automotive (Mar 20, 2013)

Audi RS3 said:


> Hi! How much you can adjust cambers in original TT RS?


 For a stock car, -1.33 is the most I have seen posted by others - my front end was modified with uprated bushes so I was able to get up to -1.49 FL & -1.45 FR...though I have since put both back to -1.45.


----------



## Audi RS3 (Apr 20, 2011)

Thank you for information, does anyone have aftermarket parts for helping to adjust cambers? I want to get more negative camber in front.


----------



## MSS Automotive (Mar 20, 2013)

Audi RS3 said:


> Thank you for information, does anyone have aftermarket parts for helping to adjust cambers? I want to get more negative camber in front.


Drop me a line at [email protected]...

William


----------



## TRZ06 (Jan 20, 2013)

Thanks guys, 

I have decided to start with the 034 RSB, since they are only 30 mins from my house. I will buy and have them install it. 

Also ordered the RE-11 tires, got a deal on them from Tire Rack since as mentioned above they are being discontinued for the RE-11A. 

While looking at the Tire Rack's website, I see the stock Toyo's are not even a max performance tire, but a ultra high performance tire. Most sports cars of this caliber at least come with Max performance tires, so I should see a nice gain in grip and sidewall stiffness from the RE-11s which are in the extreme category. 

Jeff: while I appreciate your input and I am sure your springs are top notch, I just can't justify them. I have no issue with the stock suspension. The main reason I have gone to KW V2 on previous cars is lack of rear-end composure, but I think Audi did a wonderful job on the TTRS, the rear stays stable and planted , even when the rear is upset in mid-corner. Maybe Audi left a little on the table as far as weight transfer and comfort that your springs resolve, but at this time I just don't see a need. If I ever get a ride in a MSS springed car my mind my change, but for now I am content with the stock setup. 

My issue is body lean and understeer and front-end bite. I think from the much sticker tires and the RSB, I will get better front bite and neutral handling. 

I am unsure what I want to do on alignment yet. I don't want to go too aggressive, as I don't want to eat the inner side of the tire and cause uneven wear.


----------



## LongviewTx (Dec 26, 1999)

get the rear trailing arm bearings too. i wished i lived 30 minutes from them. 

i am running max neg camber on fronts (-1.42 ish). it is too little to create tire wear issues.


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 28, 2004)

With the car being a Mac strut I would run way more camber up front. -2.5 to-3 degrees of camber up front with something around -1 degree in the rear. 

Turns out the Evo's corner weights and motion ratio's are shockingly similar.


----------



## [email protected] (Mar 25, 2013)

TRZ06 said:


> Thanks guys,
> 
> I have decided to start with the 034 RSB, since they are only 30 mins from my house. I will buy and have them install it.
> 
> ...


 Please, no worries. That was only a half hearted plug We have had tester that through tight 
corners the front end would unload due to weight transfer with the stock suspension and get alot 
of understeer. The MSS kit corrected that. That's why I mentioned it. Hopefully you can sample it in the future. 

Going one step at a time is a smart way to go. Have fun with your TTRS! It really is a nice package. 

Cheers


----------



## TRZ06 (Jan 20, 2013)

LongviewTx said:


> get the rear trailing arm bearings too. i wished i lived 30 minutes from them.
> 
> i am running max neg camber on fronts (-1.42 ish). it is too little to create tire wear issues.


 Does adding the Rear Trailing Arms Bearings cause any noise or additional vibrations? I don't want any squeezing or clucking coming from rear end. 

Thanks


----------



## carl44 (Nov 23, 2012)

Audi RS3 said:


> Hi! How much you can adjust cambers in original TT RS?


 i maxed out my RS and got -1.5 on the TTS i had i got -1.6 don't know why same suspension. carl


----------

