# Got my Raxles



## PeteA3 (Dec 3, 2005)

Delivered today, hope to get them installed this Friday or Saturday.

















105k the stock boots and I'm pretty sure right side bearing are done for...car needs these bad, can't wait to get them in.

Pete


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

Just curious how much did it cost you. I might be replacing my stock axle soon. Thanks


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## dmorrow (Jun 9, 2000)

neu318 said:


> Just curious how much did it cost you. I might be replacing my stock axle soon. Thanks


I also purchased them and at the time (roughly 6 months ago) I believe they were $250 each.


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## NYCameron (Nov 17, 2010)

PeteA3 said:


> Delivered today, hope to get them installed this Friday or Saturday.





dmorrow said:


> I also purchased them and at the time (roughly 6 months ago) I believe they were $250 each.


woah! 6 month delivery time?!


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

dmorrow said:


> I also purchased them and at the time (roughly 6 months ago) I believe they were $250 each.


Thanks good to know.



NYCameron said:


> woah! 6 month delivery time?!


WOW, did it really take that long to get?


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

...... dmorrow meant that he purchased them 6 months ago.... didn't state that it took that long to receive.

Also... I didn't know PeteA3 drove a MKIV 










Standard raxles replacements are $250

The ones shown above are the "bulletproof" axles. IIRC that means solid vs hollow driveshafts and CV joints with greater angular range and the driveshafts are slightly shortened for extremely lowered applications. 

The prices listed above do not include shipping (which was around $15 IIRC) but they do include a shipping return label for your core.

I went with the standard replacements.

Dave


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## dmorrow (Jun 9, 2000)

dmorrow said:


> I also purchased them and at the time (roughly 6 months ago) I believe they were $250 each.


Where does it say I just received them? :what:

I assumed most could figure out I received them about the same time I ordered them, roughly 6 months ago.


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

so did they send the wrong ones?


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

dmorrow said:


> Where does it say I just received them? :what:
> 
> I assumed most could figure out I received them about the same time I ordered them, roughly 6 months ago.


No, tardwagons didn't realize that you and OP were two different people. :facepalm:


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

TBomb said:


> No, tardwagons didn't realize that you and OP were two different people. :facepalm:


HAHAHAHHAHAH

i just notice that. Hilarious


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

tp.wannabe.s3 said:


> HAHAHAHHAHAH
> 
> i just notice that. Hilarious


ROFL...:laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

tp.wannabe.s3 said:


> HAHAHAHHAHAH
> 
> i just notice that. Hilarious


Oh you funny, guy


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## PeteA3 (Dec 3, 2005)

$740 shipped no core on the bullet proof versions and it took about a week to get them.

I didn't catch that MKIV in the serial number yesterday when I opened the box...thank you for pointing that out Dave, I'll call Marty and verify. Hopefully it's just the serial number and not the axles that are wrong.


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## PeteA3 (Dec 3, 2005)

Spoke with Marty and they are the correct axles. His software that prints labels automatically inserts MKIV and he types in the serial number and name. He said he just forgets to go in and change it...no worries.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

So when will the burnout video be posted?


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

Bit the bullet today and ordered a Raxle for my driver side. Spoke to Marty, hell of a guy, very helpful and funny. Unfortunately I have to wait around 5 business days to get mine. Can't wait.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

neu318 said:


> Bit the bullet today and ordered a Raxle for my driver side. Spoke to Marty, hell of a guy, very helpful and funny. Unfortunately I have to wait around 5 business days to get mine. Can't wait.


It'll probably ship out sooner. I too also received a ship date a few days after I ordered, but it ended up shipping the next day. 

Dave


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

crew219 said:


> It'll probably ship out sooner. I too also received a ship date a few days after I ordered, but it ended up shipping the next day.
> 
> Dave



I really hope so, he told me he hasn't sold any raxles for the 3.2Q so he was waiting for someone to send him a core which he would get within 5 days. I'm crossing my fingers. The sound from the bad axle is really bad and I'm only driving the car if I really need to.


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## PeteA3 (Dec 3, 2005)

Just finished this morning...going for a test drive and then alignment.


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## PeteA3 (Dec 3, 2005)

Took it for a test drive, nothing wrong but the original noise is still there 

So, new axles and tires and I still have this humming noise that gets louder with speed. Does not change when I push in the clutch and coast.

I can get it to go away when I swerve sharply to the left. I assume this unloads the right side and thus whatever it is sees no load. Could this be a rear wheel bearing bad? 

Pete


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

Driver's side front wheel bearing is what it sounds like to me...


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## PeteA3 (Dec 3, 2005)

Damn I I screwed up...it's when I swerve to the right transferring weight to the left when it goes away.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

Then its a right side wheel bearing.


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## Rub-ISH (Aug 8, 2006)

Hey Pete what did these end up costing? are they the Bullet proof ones?


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## PeteA3 (Dec 3, 2005)

$740 shipped and yes they are the bullet proof version.

Wheel bearings easy to replace? Would you speculate front over rear? I hate guessing...

Going to go home and remove the right rear wheel and take a look, maybe something is loose?

Getting it aligned now.


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

PeteA3 said:


> $740 shipped and yes they are the bullet proof version.
> 
> Wheel bearings easy to replace? Would you speculate front over rear? I hate guessing...
> 
> ...


Did you re-use the old stretch bolt(a no-no), or change to the new spec (lower tech) 12 pt bolt? If you didnt torque down the axle bolt correctly, you can kill a wheel bearing in very little time.

a good alignment tech should be able to troubleshoot your noise quickly, up on the rack or a test drive. 


My experience with wheel bearings is that if one goes, the other side isnt far behind, so get two!

Not sure why you guys are getting entire axles:screwy:... an outer joint kit is around 100 bux from DBC. trying not to get greasy?:laugh:


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## PeteA3 (Dec 3, 2005)

105k on the car, replacing the axle is easy and getting all new ensures many more happy miles


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## PeteA3 (Dec 3, 2005)

Took the right rear off, nothing visibly wrong or heard when spinning the disc...

All I know is that the car is soooooooooooo quite when I swerve to the right.

So a wheel bearing...do you buy the whole bearing housing or by the bearing and press it in?


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

PeteA3 said:


> Took the right rear off, nothing visibly wrong or heard when spinning the disc...
> 
> All I know is that the car is soooooooooooo quite when I swerve to the right.
> 
> So a wheel bearing...do you buy the whole bearing housing or by the bearing and press it in?


cheap

money to burn


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## cldub (Jul 2, 2010)

Revival!

Spoke with Marty the other day, and he recommended bulletproof V2.1d axles. Price would be ~$740 shipped for both. Has anyone heard about, or have any experience with these? Is this a good price?


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## Rub-ISH (Aug 8, 2006)

I'm pretty sure that I have those on my car...I bought the Bulletproofs in January I think...Paid 740 shipped and I've been pretty happy with them...Helped lessen the need for a c notch on the driver side as well


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## cldub (Jul 2, 2010)

Rub-ISH said:


> I'm pretty sure that I have those on my car...I bought the Bulletproofs in January I think...Paid 740 shipped and I've been pretty happy with them...Helped lessen the need for a c notch on the driver side as well


Thanks for the input! I mainly just wanted to make sure that wasn't a dumb price for axles


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## BritBulldog (Feb 6, 2009)

Quick question, the other day i was driving in stop and go traffic and all of a sudden at about 1.5-2.5k rpm ONLY WHEN ACCELERATING it would get horrible shudder and my rpms would bounce all the way. It didnt do it once i got to a speed and stayed there or if i accelerated really really slowly. after i got to about 65 and stayed there for a few hours i eventually got to a point where i had to slow down and accelerate again and it didnt do it and hasnt done it since then. would this be a sign of a bad axle?


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## Billiard31 (Aug 6, 2010)

Correct me if I'm wrong but the raxles are warranties for life right?


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## cldub (Jul 2, 2010)

Billiard31 said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong but the raxles are warranties for life right?


Yeah Marty said they are guaranteed against breakage so long as I own the car. I wonder if this includes CVs failing


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## dmorrow (Jun 9, 2000)

cldub said:


> Revival!
> 
> Spoke with Marty the other day, and he recommended bulletproof V2.1d axles. Price would be ~$740 shipped for both. Has anyone heard about, or have any experience with these? Is this a good price?


I bought mine from Raxles in January of 2011 and it was around $740 shipped but when I returned my old ones I got $200 back so a total of $540 in the end.

I don't know if I got the bulletproof or the standard or if there is a difference.


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## cldub (Jul 2, 2010)

dmorrow said:


> I bought mine from Raxles in January of 2011 and it was around $740 shipped but when I returned my old ones I got $200 back so a total of $540 in the end.
> 
> I don't know if I got the bulletproof or the standard or if there is a difference.


Returned your old ones? What do you mean?


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

IMHO, I would only pay $740 for axles if I got a guarantee that the boots would never rip. Any axle should last the lifetime of the car if the boots never ripped or if they were replaced before they ripped.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

cldub said:


> Returned your old ones? What do you mean?


Core charge


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## tp. (Nov 12, 2009)

How are these holding up?

just found leak and grease all over wheel yesterday.

I replaced the boot once and will never do again. Pain in the ass. I rather just replace the axle.


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## tp. (Nov 12, 2009)

no one?


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

I've had my drivers side Raxle for almost a year. Inner cv boot tore. I called Raxle. They said the axles don't like to be low. I raised the fronts. They sent me a replacement boot. Replaced it. Two months later the inner cv boot is leaking again. Car is at dealer. Told them the boot is leaking. Hoping they think the axle is OEM and replace the boot.


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## Rub-ISH (Aug 8, 2006)

I've had the bullet proofs for quite some time an I'm on air. I always drive at a somewhat reasonable height. Like a decent Coil over ride height. No problems for me...but it's only been about a year


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

neu318 said:


> I've had my drivers side Raxle for almost a year. Inner cv boot tore. I called Raxle. They said the axles don't like to be low. I raised the fronts. They sent me a replacement boot. Replaced it. Two months later the inner cv boot is leaking again. Car is at dealer. Told them the boot is leaking. Hoping they think the axle is OEM and replace the boot.


Revival... what are you running now and any more torn boots? From what I know, they don't have a 'bulletproof' raxle for the 3.2, unless I was asking for the wrong goods.


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

krazyboi said:


> Revival... what are you running now and any more torn boots? From what I know, they don't have a 'bulletproof' raxle for the 3.2, unless I was asking for the wrong goods.


JT, I'm still running the driver side RAXLE. Dealer had replaced the boot. As far as I know I don't have any torn boots. Thank god. I still have the front raised a little so I think that's why the boots have held up. When I bought my RAXLE more than a year ago they didn't have one for our cars. After Marty from Raxles did some research he fabricated one for me so I doubt they had any of the bulletproof ones. It's been a while now so maybe they have some now. Let me know if you have any more questions.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

I want in! Apparently both my inner CV's are starting to tear. Just passed 75k Miles. 

My mechanic can't even find the 3.2's axles with Altrom or his suppliers. Aside from Raxles where you guys getting your stuff????


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## VWAddict (Jun 12, 1999)

I *think* cardone supplies them...

I looked at discount auto and found them remanufactured for a 2.0. Does this link work for everyone?

I have a contact at Cardone (area rep) who may be able to provide more info if needed...


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

VWAddict said:


> I *think* cardone supplies them...
> 
> I looked at discount auto and found them remanufactured for a 2.0. Does this link work for everyone?
> 
> I have a contact at Cardone (area rep) who may be able to provide more info if needed...



Link works. No axles for 3.2 though 

http://www.discountautoparts.com/[email protected]@Driveshaft, U-Joint and CV&mode=PA


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## everydayparadise (Sep 8, 2006)

dmorrow said:


> I also purchased them and at the time (roughly 6 months ago) I believe they were $250 each.



Wow 500 for refurbished axels... I just rebuilt mine my self... took me 2 days (2x 2 hours sessions) and $85 in parts and $10 in paper towels.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

everydayparadise said:


> Wow 500 for refurbished axels... I just rebuilt mine my self... took me 2 days (2x 2 hours sessions) and $85 in parts and $10 in paper towels.


If I send you my cores, wanna rebuild mine? :thumbup:


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## everydayparadise (Sep 8, 2006)

krazyboi said:


> If I send you my cores, wanna rebuild mine? :thumbup:


If I had the time I totally would.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

everydayparadise said:


> If I had the time I totally would.


My passenger side axle is fine :screwy: . My driver side has been torn (and probably dry) for a good 6 months to be honest. Think I can rebuild it still?


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## everydayparadise (Sep 8, 2006)

krazyboi said:


> My passenger side axle is fine :screwy: . My driver side has been torn (and probably dry) for a good 6 months to be honest. Think I can rebuild it still?


If it is completely dry then you will also need a new velocity/cv joint and not just the boot. This is because you probably have contaminants that have warn some of the internals of the joint. But if there is still a lot of grease in the joint... You maybe ok... maybe.

This is the procedure that I used to rebuild mine.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5164989-DIY-Outer-CV-Boot-R-amp-R

Also ECSTuning sells axels cheaper the RAXELS
Drive side - http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-A3-FWD-2.0T/Drivetrain/Axles/Left_Front/ES2079264/
Pass side DSG - http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-A3-FWD-2.0T/Drivetrain/Axles/ES2222291/
Pass side Manual - http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-A3-FWD-2.0T/Drivetrain/Axles/ES2574734/


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

I have a ~ 2 years on the EMPI with no issues yet. For < $150, why not?



everydayparadise said:


> This is the procedure that I used to rebuild mine.
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5164989-DIY-Outer-CV-Boot-R-amp-R


Dumb question, but isn't the inner end of the axle bolted to the transmission with ~ 8 screws? I didn't understand the prying it out of the housing / clicking it back in steps.


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## everydayparadise (Sep 8, 2006)

JRutter said:


> I have a ~ 2 years on the EMPI with no issues yet. For < $150, why not?
> 
> 
> 
> Dumb question, but isn't the inner end of the axle bolted to the transmission with ~ 8 screws? I didn't understand the prying it out of the housing / clicking it back in steps.


He or She is referring to inner cap on the inner CV - http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-A3-FWD-2.0T/Drivetrain/Axles/CV/ES10231/


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

everydayparadise said:


> Wow 500 for refurbished axels... I just rebuilt mine my self... took me 2 days (2x 2 hours sessions) and $85 in parts and $10 in paper towels.


IMO, you get what you pay for in this case. Raxles have hardened end points and a lifetime guarantee. If you plan to sell the car in 3-5 years, go cheap, but if you're keeping it for a while, they will literally last forever, even if that means a free rebuild. And raxles doesn't simply regrind the components, either, which removes the case hardening on the joint. (This is what cardone and a few others do). They literally rebuild it to new quality. A few weeks ago, when I thought there was an issue with my axle, I looked into them. Thankfully, axles are fine, but if I do need new ones, raxles are what I'll get. If no regrinding is needed, however, then rebuilding the OEM ones is the way to go.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

npace said:


> IMO, you get what you pay for in this case. Raxles have hardened end points and a lifetime guarantee. If you plan to sell the car in 3-5 years, go cheap, but if you're keeping it for a while, they will literally last forever, even if that means a free rebuild. And raxles doesn't simply regrind the components, either, which removes the case hardening on the joint. (This is what cardone and a few others do). They literally rebuild it to new quality. A few weeks ago, when I thought there was an issue with my axle, I looked into them. Thankfully, axles are fine, but if I do need new ones, raxles are what I'll get. If no regrinding is needed, however, then rebuilding the OEM ones is the way to go.


Sold!!! (Although I was already planning on it). Wish they had bulletproof 3.2 version.


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## neu318 (Feb 18, 2003)

krazyboi said:


> Sold!!! (Although I was already planning on it). Wish they had bulletproof 3.2 version.


Let me know when you get it. I want to see if you experience any shuddering on sharp right turns.


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## everydayparadise (Sep 8, 2006)

npace said:


> IMO, you get what you pay for in this case. Raxles have hardened end points and a lifetime guarantee. If you plan to sell the car in 3-5 years, go cheap, but if you're keeping it for a while, they will literally last forever, even if that means a free rebuild. And raxles doesn't simply regrind the components, either, which removes the case hardening on the joint. (This is what cardone and a few others do). They literally rebuild it to new quality. A few weeks ago, when I thought there was an issue with my axle, I looked into them. Thankfully, axles are fine, but if I do need new ones, raxles are what I'll get. If no regrinding is needed, however, then rebuilding the OEM ones is the way to go.


I agree you do get what you pay for. Thats why we all bought Audi's... You can get just as good of quality by rebuilding if your stuff isn't totally messed up. In my situation i noticed a small crack and a small leak of grease, perfect for a rebuild job. If yours is way blown, then yes just get some new axels. You'll be better off.


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## everfresh59 (Jul 26, 2010)

Sorry for jacking this thread, but have any of you tried GKN Drivetech axle shafts? My driver side is pretty much on it's last leg so I'm in need of a new one and found this on autopartsway.

I initially wanted to go with Raxles, but since I'm from the North, I'll get molested by duty and taxes.

I've got an EMPI on the passenger side and it's still holding up…. not sure how?


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

everfresh59 said:


> I've got an EMPI on the passenger side and it's still holding up…. not sure how?


Yea, my passenger ones still hold up too..


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Both of my front outer CV joint are torn. I don't see any grease (is that possible?) and they don't make any noise (unless that's the skipping/crunch sound under hard braking that I hear).. I can simply replace/rebuild them without having to replace the axles, correct?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

BeeAlk said:


> Both of my front outer CV joint are torn. I don't see any grease (is that possible?) and they don't make any noise (unless that's the skipping/crunch sound under hard braking that I hear).. I can simply replace/rebuild them without having to replace the axles, correct?


Yes, however..... I would caution you against a rebuild if the joints are completely dry inside... because that crunching is likely the joint grinding on itself due to a lack of lubrication. If you remove the outer boot, and it is completely dry, with metal shavings all over the place, I would recommend new axles. You can get a decent quality rubber boot with grease packet at autozone for like $6 ($12 for both sides). Just make sure after you remove the old boot that you completely clean off all of the old grease before re-fitting the new boot and filling it with new grease. I'm not against rebuilding, it just depends on how far gone the axle is. I agree with what everydayparadise said earlier. 

But... if you're only hearing the skipping/crunch during braking, it sounds more likely to me that you have a small pebble or something stuck in one of the brake shims. Easy to check while you replace your outer CV boots. :thumbup:


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## dmorrow (Jun 9, 2000)

dmorrow said:


> I bought mine from Raxles in January of 2011 and it was around $740 shipped but when I returned my old ones I got $200 back so a total of $540 in the end.
> 
> I don't know if I got the bulletproof or the standard or if there is a difference.





npace said:


> IMO, you get what you pay for in this case. Raxles have hardened end points and a lifetime guarantee. If you plan to sell the car in 3-5 years, go cheap, but if you're keeping it for a while, they will literally last forever, even if that means a free rebuild. And raxles doesn't simply regrind the components, either, which removes the case hardening on the joint. (This is what cardone and a few others do). They literally rebuild it to new quality. A few weeks ago, when I thought there was an issue with my axle, I looked into them. Thankfully, axles are fine, but if I do need new ones, raxles are what I'll get. If no regrinding is needed, however, then rebuilding the OEM ones is the way to go.


Update from a long time ago. I got the Raxles had a problem with one of them, called them, they said it couldn't be an axle problem and had to be something else. I asked about the warranty and you have to take the axles off and ship them down so they can repair them and ship them back to you. I asked about paying for new ones then sending old back and they refund my money if they found a problem and they wouldn't do that either as they said they would get stuck with used axles. I am not sure how any normal person can deal with sending the axles back for repair and having their car out of commission.

I took my car to my normal Indy, they put on Audi axles and problem solved. I never bothered to get the axles repaired by Raxles but wouldn't buy from them again.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

npace said:


> Yes, however..... I would caution you against a rebuild if the joints are completely dry inside... because that crunching is likely the joint grinding on itself due to a lack of lubrication. If you remove the outer boot, and it is completely dry, with metal shavings all over the place, I would recommend new axles. You can get a decent quality rubber boot with grease packet at autozone for like $6 ($12 for both sides). Just make sure after you remove the old boot that you completely clean off all of the old grease before re-fitting the new boot and filling it with new grease. I'm not against rebuilding, it just depends on how far gone the axle is. I agree with what everydayparadise said earlier.
> 
> But... if you're only hearing the skipping/crunch during braking, it sounds more likely to me that you have a small pebble or something stuck in one of the brake shims. Easy to check while you replace your outer CV boots. :thumbup:


The sound is only during hard braking, just a few feet before coming to a stop. I've only otherwise gotten strange clunks occasionally, but I'm certain that's the subframe and not the CV joints. Also, there's not a single trace of grease coming out of the boots, so it leads me to think they haven't puked.

Can you elaborate on what a brake shim is? I removed both front rotors/pads/calipers and regreased all pins and everything thinking it was brake related. Sound never changed though..


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

BeeAlk said:


> The sound is only during hard braking, just a few feet before coming to a stop. I've only otherwise gotten strange clunks occasionally, but I'm certain that's the subframe and not the CV joints. Also, there's not a single trace of grease coming out of the boots, so it leads me to think they haven't puked.
> 
> Can you elaborate on what a brake shim is? I removed both front rotors/pads/calipers and regreased all pins and everything thinking it was brake related. Sound never changed though..


Metal piece on the back of the brake pad. On the rear, it's the thin, flexible metal piece that sort of holds the pad in the caliper.... this is where small pebbles and things get stuck sometimes. I get squeaks from the rear brakes all the time, gotta keep them lubed up pretty frequently. It seems like if the sound was CV joints, turning would be more likely the cause of the sound. In any event, replace the boots, and if the sound is still present, start looking elsewhere.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

dmorrow said:


> Update from a long time ago. I got the Raxles had a problem with one of them, called them, they said it couldn't be an axle problem and had to be something else. I asked about the warranty and you have to take the axles off and ship them down so they can repair them and ship them back to you. I asked about paying for new ones then sending old back and they refund my money if they found a problem and they wouldn't do that either as they said they would get stuck with used axles. I am not sure how any normal person can deal with sending the axles back for repair and having their car out of commission.
> 
> I took my car to my normal Indy, they put on Audi axles and problem solved. I never bothered to get the axles repaired by Raxles but wouldn't buy from them again.


Interesting to know. :thumbup:


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

npace said:


> Metal piece on the back of the brake pad. On the rear, it's the thin, flexible metal piece that sort of holds the pad in the caliper.... this is where small pebbles and things get stuck sometimes. I get squeaks from the rear brakes all the time, gotta keep them lubed up pretty frequently. It seems like if the sound was CV joints, turning would be more likely the cause of the sound. In any event, replace the boots, and if the sound is still present, start looking elsewhere.


Oh, I didn't know those were called shims. I always referred to them as pad retaining clips. On the rear you're talking about the "prongs" that snap into the piston? I removed all parts and cleaned/grease where necessary. The sound definitely is coming from the front through and I don't remember the shims being the same up front.. Maybe I somehow missed a part when disassembling to clean.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

BeeAlk said:


> Oh, I didn't know those were called shims. I always referred to them as pad retaining clips. On the rear you're talking about the "prongs" that snap into the piston? I removed all parts and cleaned/grease where necessary. The sound definitely is coming from the front through and I don't remember the shims being the same up front.. Maybe I somehow missed a part when disassembling to clean.


No, not the prongs. This is the piece that kind of wraps around the outer portion of the rear pad, between the pad and the caliper.

Also, top four replies..... I feel like VMR wheel for about 5 min


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