# Door panel alternative materials?



## ZachRabbit (May 19, 2009)

So i want to make custom door panels for my MK1 Rabbit, but i don't want to use the "waterproof" cardboard crap for the back...
would fiberglass or acrylic sheeting be a decent alternative?
or does anyone else have any other suggestions on another backing material that doesn't have anything to do with paper?
i'm trying to make this so i don't have to worry about my panels warping or falling apart. the fiberglass idea sounds okay, i would just need to get a powerful glue and make sure i staple the vinyl onto the back really good...or so it seems...
anyone ever try this, so i know whether i should, before i go sinking a couple hundos into fiberglass sheets for this?








any assistance would be appreciated, thanks.


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## bunnytruck (May 24, 2009)

pegboard material - just like pegboard but without the holes. It's cheap and easy to replace if you screw them up. 
You can use foam, if someone will donate some to you, to create depth in your cards. Then get yourself some material and spray adhesive and go to town. I made some a while back that turned out alright. you'll need to reuse the stock tabs.
There's a build thread on how to do this but I couldn't find it in search. Post pictures when you're done


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## ZachRabbit (May 19, 2009)

*Re: (bunnytruck)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bunnytruck* »_pegboard material - just like pegboard but without the holes. It's cheap and easy to replace if you screw them up. 
You can use foam, if someone will donate some to you, to create depth in your cards. Then get yourself some material and spray adhesive and go to town. I made some a while back that turned out alright. you'll need to reuse the stock tabs.
There's a build thread on how to do this but I couldn't find it in search. Post pictures when you're done

that might work... and i have some cash i could get started with it... dunno how far i would get. i have an idea for a pattern that'll make it look sporty and hot-roddish.








yeah hopfully i can get those out without a problem. lol.
and i know, i was disappointed, i looked for one too before i posted, and there was nothing. 
and if i can get the materials i need, i'll definitely post a DIY. i'll probably go out to Lowe's today and see what they have for stuff i could use for backing... i'm still open for suggestions, i wanna go there and get an idea of how much i'd be spending.
the problem is that i found some armrests on JC Whitney's site, and they say they're for an older beetle but they look SOOO cool, and i'm hoping maybe they'll fit a rabbit doorcard too... if not, oh well i guess.


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## ZachRabbit (May 19, 2009)

*Re: (ZachRabbit)*

i went shopping online for materials. here's what i'm going to get/ have so far:
-4' x 8' sheet of tempered masonite (hardboard. kind of like pegboard without the pegholes)
^^ already have this^^
what i'm going to get tonight:
-3-4yd black vinyl, not too sure of the grain pattern, i'll know when i get to see the selection.
-1/4" thick foam, not sure of what kind until i get to see it in person, but online i found some "headliner" foam that looked to be about what i'm looking for, sealed so the glue won't seep through.
-upholstery thread
-3M Super 77 Multi-Purpose Adhesive (or better, if i can find it)
-staple gun + staples
-size 18 sewing machine needles (if you don't have an industrial machine)
all of this should cost me about $140-150 altogether. so really, this is a more affordable alternative to buying new or having SOMEONE ELSE make your panels custom, or even buying mint ones sometimes. if you're anal about the way your interior looks, especially if you're making a car for VW shows, then this is the way to go for sure. you're getting EXACTLY what you want, nothing less. stay tuned, i didn't mean for this to turn into a DIY, but i think i'll make one out of it, since i realized fiberglass isn't a good alternative (you can't staple to it too, it has to be glued only, and some glues eat through fiberglass and plastic







.... not good if you really want a quality door panel)


_Modified by ZachRabbit at 1:42 PM 6-8-2009_


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## bunnytruck (May 24, 2009)

Don't use staples...they'll look like crap and you shouldn't need to sew anything. Why would it cost $150
When I did mine, I traced the old doorcard onto the backerboard and then used a jigsaw to cut it out. I then put the original doorcard over top of the piece I just cut out and traced the holes for the clips and the door handles and the window crank. I used a drill to create the holes for the clips and I used the jigsaw to make the holes for everything else. Then I sprayed the cloth and the backboard with spray adhesive and pressed the fabric on using a plastic putty knife to work out the bubbles.
Make sure you allow enough fabric to overlap it over the edge. I could see why you might want to use staples here but my concern is that they'll poke through the other side and screw up the front of the doorcard


_Modified by bunnytruck at 12:52 PM 6-8-2009_


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## ZachRabbit (May 19, 2009)

*Re: (bunnytruck)*

*EDIT:*
Here are the deals i got, and you might be surprised of the type of adhesive i chose:
-one 4'x8' sheet of hardboard (tempered masonite) = $12.20
-2yd black vinyl (for the door panels, this gives me a bit extra to account for gathering on the decorative stitching. i got this at 50% off, making it $8.49/yd) = *$16.98*
-extra 20" of black vinyl (for the trim pieces above the door, forgot to get it the first go around, lol. got this piece at remnant price because it was the last bit on the roll, thank God. so it was half price of half price







) = *$2.56*
-2.569yds of 1/2" foam (the kind of material you would find in couch cushions or car seats, but in a sheet, cut to whatever length you need. JoAnn's has it in rolls most of the time.) @ $9.99/yd = *$25.67*
(i still need more of this, the store only had enough to make 3 door cards.)
-2 spools of heavy upholstery thread (polyester) @ $1.79ea. = 
-one 16.5oz. can of LOCTITE Spray Adhesive (HEAVY DUTY PERMANENT) = *$14.99*
-1pkg size 16 Shmetz sewing machine needles for jeans. (you could even get size 18 if you wanted to be absolutely sure you're not going to break one.) = *$4.99*
__________________________________________________________________
*grand total: $81.74* (overshot the price estimate, lol







)
i still have to buy one more piece of foam for backing of the vinyl, so that'll up the price to around $100.
so all in all, it's every bit less expensive to make your own door cards, minus armrests and stuff of that sort.
going to start with the trim that goes above the door cards tomorrow 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by ZachRabbit at 7:42 PM 6-8-2009_


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## ZachRabbit (May 19, 2009)

*Re: (ZachRabbit)*

the reason i got the LOCTITE adhesive instead of the 3M Super 77, is because it specifically says on the back that it's not for vinyl or headliners....
the LOCTITE adhesive is made for supported vinyl (has a cloth backing of some sort), foams, and heavy duty upholstery kind of work. just fyi to those who are trying to cut corners or save money by buying the 3M...
sometimes you can't skimp on certain things http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## ZachRabbit (May 19, 2009)

*Re: (bunnytruck)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bunnytruck* »_Don't use staples...they'll look like crap and you shouldn't need to sew anything. Why would it cost $150
When I did mine, I traced the old doorcard onto the backerboard and then used a jigsaw to cut it out. I then put the original doorcard over top of the piece I just cut out and traced the holes for the clips and the door handles and the window crank. I used a drill to create the holes for the clips and I used the jigsaw to make the holes for everything else. Then I sprayed the cloth and the backboard with spray adhesive and pressed the fabric on using a plastic putty knife to work out the bubbles.
Make sure you allow enough fabric to overlap it over the edge. I could see why you might want to use staples here but my concern is that they'll poke through the other side and screw up the front of the doorcard

_Modified by bunnytruck at 12:52 PM 6-8-2009_

-4yd of black vinyl @ $16.99/yd = $67.96
-4yd of foam (dunno if headliner drapery tape will work, but that's what looks like will work) $14.99/yd = $59.96
-upholstery thread (for decorative stitching) = $5.49ea
-2 cans of 3M Super 77 Multi-Purpose Adhesive @ $8.24/can (sale price) = $16.48
-4'x8' sheet of 3/16" hardboard (tempered masonite) = $12.20 (includes tax)
___________________________________________________________________
Grand total: $162.09 (some of that before tax)
*it all depends on what's available in your area, and whether there are sales/coupons, etc. i'm getting some of my material 40% off (vinyl) and the foam i think is 50% off (we'll see here when i go tonight)
and the thread is for decorative stitching. some people prefer to make plain door cards, but i like the stitching.








i'll have my mother help me since i'm not versed in sewing, she can help me with laying out lines to stitch on.
if you get shallow staples and thick enough foam, poking shouldn't be an issue. i may not even have to, it all depends on how well you pay attention to detail*







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## ZachRabbit (May 19, 2009)

*Re: (ZachRabbit)*

okay, so here's what i've done so far (pictures later, i don't have pics of the process, but i might be able to do that at a later date.), i started with the trim pieces that go above the door cards:
1) cleaned them and sanded them (either a scotch bright pad or a light grit sand paper, you're just scuffing it down so the glue sticks better. nothing too heavy) and cleaned the dust off afterwards.
2) layed my trim pieces out on the vinyl and guesstimated how much i would need to account for the forming of the vinyl to the trim pieces. in this case i had 5 1/4" per piece to work with. plenty.
3) i sprayed both the trim piece and the vinyl, but divided it in 3 sections, so i could work the vinyl into every nook and cranny, making sure to pull the vinyl back partially to the previously glued part, to make sure i got every inch of the trim piece covered by glue. spray both the trim piece and vinyl TWICE, waiting 2-5 minutes between coats, then stick them together and smooth everything out, on your flats, then get the cracks and edges. 
4) then i let that dry because with these, the lip on them is so small that if you tuck the edge, then it will come out of the corner and start to bubble up







so let that dry and move on to another piece








5) once you've been through all of them, take the first one you did, trim all but 1/4" of vinyl around the piece, then cut triangles on the corners, separating the sides. don't cut TOO deep, because it'll leave points instead of smooth edges. 
then spray one end of the piece, a little bit onto the trim piece, and spray the vinyl hanging over... twice again, as before, waiting 2-5 minutes between coats.
6) tuck the edge, if it's the curved edge on the end, don't worry about the vinyl gathering behind, just focus on making the edge look as smooth as possible from the front.
cut the places where the vinyl gathered flush with the part you tucked, and make sure the edge is still smooth.
repeat this for all edges, but you can leave the part that the door card covers untucked if you wish.
7) making sure the vinyl is pulled taught on the trim piece, staple the bottom lip to the vinyl with a regular household stapler, or a staple gun works better. careful not to staple on a part that will show, just on the lip. this is to ensure that the vinyl is tight and will stay on.
8) clean the piece with vinyl cleaner/UV protectant such as Armorall or Turtle Wax. this saves time of having to do this later. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
store these pieces in a cool dry place until you need them again 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by ZachRabbit at 11:37 PM 6-9-2009_


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## ZachRabbit (May 19, 2009)

*Re: (ZachRabbit)*

so this is what i've done on my door panels over the past few days:
1) layed my tempered masonite out, had my dad hold the door card top flush with the long edge of the board, (you could use wood clamps too.) and traced the edge of the door card, making sure to get as close as i could to account for the material thickness.
OR you could peel the old door card's vinyl off and trace the board, but it'll be harder if you've got door cards that are falling apart or warped on the back (like mine)
2) peel the door cards, and use at least two edges to reference off of. trace your holes. make sure you get as close to the outside of the hole as you can, to get an accurate size.
3) cut your door cards out, and debur the edges with a file. this goes for the holes too. 
4) find a straight edge on something (like a table saw's table edge) and line up two ends of the straight edges on the door card. file/sand them straighter. then file the edges to get any burs off.
test fit your door card, and trim anything that's necessary for it to fit, like making holes bigger, filing the edge, etc. try to use the original door clips or cleco's if you can, to ensure it fits right.
5) get some poster board, and trace the outline of the door card onto the posterboard, to make a template (you may have to use more than one sheet for each card, i had to use some for the ends of them because it was too big to fit on one sheet.)
draw out your stitching design and trace the holes, making sure to get as close to the edges that you're tracing as you can.
6) get out your vinyl, and lay it out. 
get your posterboard templates, cut out the holes, and trace the outline of the door card onto the back of the vinyl (or front, depends on what you have to write with and what color your vinyl is.)
then trace the holes.
then cut out the sections after that, and trace those on. you have to do these things systematically so you get all the lines you want.
7) measure for your tuck allowance, as well as your gathering allowance if you're stitching these. i measured 3/4" all the way around the door card and made it a line.
cut along the outermost line of your door card vinyl.
cut the holes out with an X-acto knife. 
8) lay out your padding of choice (i ended up using high loft quilt batting)
and cut around your vinyl pieces, nevermind the holes for right now.
cut out pieces of regular fabric (as the sewing machine dogs won't grab the batting properly) and put that on the back. 
sew your design into the door card, but don't sew the line you traced to get the outline on there, that's just a reference.
that's how far i've gotten so far (cept the sewing) hope everyone learned something of this











_Modified by ZachRabbit at 2:15 PM 6-13-2009_


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## Grabbit (Apr 27, 2001)

*Re: (ZachRabbit)*

Good thread here........
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2602114


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## ZachRabbit (May 19, 2009)

*Re: (Grabbit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Grabbit* »_Good thread here........
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2602114

this is a different way of doing it though... you could use the plywood, but it's a more complex design than he did.... i suppose that works... i'll have to post pics of what i'm doing, it wouldn't work to use plywood cept for the backing with what i'm doing.


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## ZachRabbit (May 19, 2009)

*Re: Door panel alternative materials? (ZachRabbit)*


one down, three to go


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## Grabbit (Apr 27, 2001)

*Re: Door panel alternative materials? (ZachRabbit)*

so what is the material under the vinyl and how did you shape it before covering it??


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## ZachRabbit (May 19, 2009)

*Re: Door panel alternative materials? (Grabbit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Grabbit* »_so what is the material under the vinyl and how did you shape it before covering it??

it's 1/2" foam from JoAnn Fabrics, backed with that stuff that's under most couches? like the paper-like stuff? furniture backing or something like that. 
the reason i used that kind of backing is because it holds a stitch better than regular fabric. 
then i just sewed the vinyl and foam together, (i cut the vinyl 3/4" bigger than needed, so i could account for the gathering when i stitched and the wrapping) and wrapped it around the backerboard,
first gluing the two short sides, clamping them down until they held on their own.
next i did the top and bottom, clamped those down, then stapled the whole way around, every 3-4" and made sure i hit the corners.
i'm going to polyurethane the backs of these so it waterproofs and seals everything in place.
* MAKE SURE YOU WAIT TO CUT YOUR HOLES UNTIL YOUVE GOT IT WRAPPED (unlike me







) THEN MAKE AN "X" CUT AND WRAP THE FLAPS BEHIND THE DOOR CARD!!!!!
IT WILL LOOK MUCH BETTER.... I HAVE TO FIX THIS ONE







*
the speaker hole doesn't matter much, as most aftermarket speakers go about 1/2-1" over the mounting hole anyway....
and i went as big as i could go (the door only had a 5 3/8" cutout) 
putting a 6.5" JL sub in it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
ordered these window cranks today:


trying to find a set of these interior door handles, and use black trim:


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