# 16v basic CIS stalls when hot



## riso_ak (May 13, 2010)

Hello, 
First of all, excuse my bad english , not so god at it! 
I have converted my 16v kr engine to cis basic (from an 8V with an 16V WUR - with vacuum), and in the last few days I ancountered a problem with my engine-it sometimes stalls while driving but only when hot! Pull over, and the it starts and drives on. Jump stanting while in gear only works sometimes , not allways. 
Checked the plugs and they and the mixture seems a bit rich but not exagerated. 
Tried jumping the fuel relay , but stil stalls. 
Tried leaning the mixture (3mm socket) but stil not good. 
This only happens when the engine is hot . 
Not sure where to go and check next because reading along there are so many things to go wrong that i became confused. 
Is there sombody that encountered this problem before? 
Thank you!


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## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

The KR engine already runs from the factory using CIS basic, so just what have you "converted". Sounds like it is not a fuel issue so I would look into the ignition system. Check or replace the ignition control module, check or replace the ignition coil and check the ignition distributor (test the Hall when it stalls and look for oil in the distributor). The ignition switch can cause it to die without warning, but that would not be due to heat. I have never found the ignition control boxes on KR engines to go bad, but the idle stabilizer control box can and that "could" also kill the engine if it fails just right.


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## riso_ak (May 13, 2010)

When i said CIA basic, i was refering to a fuel distributor from a '79 8V GTi . Again, sorry if i don't make my self clear. 
It is true that ignition control boxes do not fail, but also the control module is very reliable. 
I wil try to check the coil ignition dizzy. 
How do i test the Hall?


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## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

The English vs. whatever you speak where ever you live, should not be any issue and you don't have to be sorry all the time for your wording. If there is a question to what you said I will just ask as best I can to make sure we are both clear. 

As I understand what you wrote, you installed a 79' 8v fuel distributor to run your 16v engine? This I believe is not a good thing to do. Yes it will run with it and yes they were both basic CIS, but the early GTi was 200cc smaller and did not have the same engine speed as the 16v does. I believe you are going to be down on basic fuel metering by using that fuel distributor. I can not say for sure, but the engines are much different and I would think the fuel distributors would reflect that difference. 

The ICU does hold up very well, but I have had to replace them at least once a year on cars I have worked on. Most times heat is what kills them and they stop working when they get too hot. I have at least twice found some which would work poorly when cold but fine when they get warm. So for the cost and ease of swapping a known good one in, give it a try. Fuel pumps can go bad in this fashion also. When they get hot they shut down until they cool back down and work again. 

Testing the Hall sender in the ignition distributor requires an LED test light, do you have one? For that matter, do you have a repair manual? For the time being, pull back the rubber protector on the electrical connector for the Hall sender. Inspect the wires for breaks or tightness, they sometimes break due to movement and that cuts the ignition off and back on as the broken wire wiggles.


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## riso_ak (May 13, 2010)

Updates.. 
Found out today...the distributor was from an 1.8 , not 1.6. 
The car drives fine with this distibutor, until it gets fully warm , at the point where the fan kicks in.At this temperature , it begins to stall. Nevere at a lower temperature. 
Today i've replaced the ignition coil, plug wires, checked the dizzy , al seems fine, but the problem persists(no LED test light for HALL). 
You may be right about the fuel pump . Don't have one to replace for now. Maybe next days. 
I have as spare the ignition molule from the 8v 1.8l . Can i replace the 16v one with the 8v one?


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## riso_ak (May 13, 2010)

Updates no 2...
Replaced the ICM with the 8v one...stil not working...


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

When it "stalls" how long does it have to sit before it will restart? One way of determining if it is fuel or spark is to throw a timing light into the car and when it "stalls" hook-up the timing light and see if there is spark. No triggers for the light means no spark, look there. flashes from the light, look towards the fuel system. One thing I did not see that you have replaced is the fuel pump relay, I always carry a spare, but you did say you jumper-ed the relay,, again could be pump. I have had that happen, and the timing light told me I did have spark, so fuel. When you jumper-ed the relay, did you hear the pump running?


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## riso_ak (May 13, 2010)

The car does not need more the 2-3 seccond berfore it restarts.
Ok...updates
Changed the 16V vaccum WUR to an 8V one.
Needed to reset the mixture (3mm soket) , and now the problem seems to have vanished....is it possible? I'll try again later.
Could someone tell me what happens if i delete the throtle ilde switch?
Mine is broken and it has 3 wires going in to it...the plug is cut and a friend of mine suggested to connect two of the wires so that the ECU sees only "load" and not idle so that it can advance ignition.
If he is right, wich wire to connect?


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## riso_ak (May 13, 2010)

Nop...it's not the wur.
It's the fuel pump.
After warming up it starts to sound diferent. Did not found a replacement pump for now.
I'll keep updating.


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