# BT Audi TT



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Well, Its been almost a year in the making, but everything is coming together and hopefully be done very soon. I started with a 2001 Audi TT 180hp front wheel drive car. The block and head were rebuilt professionally by local hot rod shop. The transmission was also rebuilt professionally with an LSD and TDI 5th gear. I am doing the rest of the work and labor to put it all back together. The engine and tranny were finished last august and are now in the car. Next week I will be ordering my SEM intake manifold and new fuel lines and the setup will be complete! The 1.8t was the ATC narrowband. I already have a wideband ecu (AWW) and wiring harness (AWP). The wb ecu has already been flashed by Gonzo with a 870cc MAF'd file and all deletes. 

Block: 
82mm Wiseco pistons 8.5:1 c/r and Eagle rods- Engine builder took care of 
Race coated rod and main bearings (oversized) - Engine builder 
Polished and balanced crank 
IE Dowel Kit 
All ARP hardware- IE 
New IE oil and water pump (metal fins) 
IE manual timing belt kit- IE 
Victor Reinz gasket kit- IE 
Head was rebuilt to OE specs (sticking to small port and going with stainless valves) 
ECS Lw power steering pulley 
External Oil cooler 
Green top CTS- ECS 
034 Race mounts- 034motorsports 
NGK plugs- ECS 
Accessory belt for A/C delete- PAG 
Supertech Stainless exhaust valves 

Transmission: 
Complete rebuild 02J 5-speed 
Wavetrac LSD (ARP bolt kit)- IE 
TDI 5th gear- used 
IE Shift fork 
Clutchmasters FX400 6-puck and lightweight flywheel (ARP bolts)- PAG 
Redline MT90 fluid- ECStuning 

Turbo System: 
Pagparts Bottom mount manifold and downpipe-PAG 
Precision 5857SP Ball bearing- BMP20TH 
-3AN oil line with restrictor from PAG 
ECS Exhaust nuts and Nordlock washers- ECS 
HKS SSQV BOV- Previous build 
Tial 38mm WG- used 
Frozenboost AWIC kit (2.5" turbo to core, 3" from core to TB)-Frozenboost 
42dd MAP flange 
SEM Intake Manifold- CTS turbo 
034 Fuel Rail and FPR adapter- 034motorsports 
Walbro External Inline- previous build 
Racetronix 79lb injectors 
RS4 throttle body 
Apexi AVCR EBC (boost by gear FTW)- previous build 
Gonzo TUNING 
Autometer wideband, EGT, Boost, and Oil Press. gauges- used 

Suspension: 
ST coilovers- HPAmotorsports 
USRT solid subframe bushings-USRT 
New brembo rotors and Hawk pads- MJMautohaus 
Tyrolsport brake stiffening kit-USRT 
Lightweight tubular LCA's-USRT 
Stainless Steel Brake lines- ECS 
All new poly swaybar bushings and steering rack 


As of now, the motor is in the car. The suspension and brakes are finished (just have to tighten tie rods). The PAG bottom mount made it near impossible to fit a 4" to 3" 90degree reducer between the frame rails. There was a one inch lip the dug into the reducer. I pulled the motor again and took the cutter to the lip. After the lip was removed, I took the grinder to it to smooth out the edge where the fitting would sit. I initially wanted to keep the A/C, but since I am running the AWIC on the drivers side of the bay, the intake runs right where my A/C lines are at.. I removed the A/C stuff for now. I will make some new A/C lines, but after its running lol I have a couple questions/concerns I wanted to express as well. 

-need a compressor housing o-ring for the turbo.. anyone know who carries these? -getting from PAG 

-I am mounting the AWIC heat exchange in the A/C condensers spot. I have heard some concern for the TT's running hot, anyone have any opinions/suggestions? I was also considering a new (3 row) radiator to help with cooling. Is there anyone with any experience running an upgraded radiator on these cars? 

-Initial start up- Priming the oil.. IIRC, I will need to unplug injectors; turn over with key for 30 seconds; plug in and fire up? Looking for a little more detail to make sure everything is sufficiently primed and ready to go. 
- unplugging injectors to cut fuel and then cranking over to prime.


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

Good to finally see progress on your build. I always wonder about TT builds as they are bit different. I normally use a 4" to 3.5" cobra for the T3 and even vbanded bottom mounts (the latter pulling the turbo farther away from the frame rail which makes fitting any silicone inlet a non-issue). I should've suggested it but didnt know exactly what you were doing. Good luck w/ it all :thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Good to finally see progress on your build. I always wonder about TT builds as they are bit different. I normally use a 4" to 3.5" cobra for the T3 and even vbanded bottom mounts (the latter pulling the turbo farther away from the frame rail which makes fitting any silicone inlet a non-issue). I should've suggested it but didnt know exactly what you were doing. Good luck w/ it all :thumbup:


 Thank you! I used the frozenboost reducer (probably coud have found a more compact one) since it was what I had and grinding the lip off took a whole 10 minutes  I am really looking forward to getting this completed and have a working car again :thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Good to finally see progress on your build. I always wonder about TT builds as they are bit different. I normally use a 4" to 3.5" cobra for the T3 and even vbanded bottom mounts (the latter pulling the turbo farther away from the frame rail which makes fitting any silicone inlet a non-issue). I should've suggested it but didnt know exactly what you were doing. Good luck w/ it all :thumbup:


 Also, do you guys carry the compressor housing o-ring for the 5857? I got a hold of precision and they said to use a vendor, but will sell one to me if I cant get one soon enough..


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

Sure, I have a garrett one. Should be the same


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

dope, build :thumbup: Also LOL @ Grass City :facepalm:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Sure, I have a garrett one. Should be the same


 I'll be in touch with you soon. 

-Tom- don't hate on the city


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## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

can we get the pictures linked directly? i dont have a grasscity account


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

finally got it pics working..


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## Chris164935 (Jan 10, 2004)

Unplug the injectors to prime the engine/turbo with oil. This will keep the injectors from spraying fuel into the cylinders and possibly washing down the cylinder walls while cranking to prime the engine with oil.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Chris164935 said:


> Unplug the injectors to prime the engine/turbo with oil. This will keep the injectors from spraying fuel into the cylinders and possibly washing down the cylinder walls while cranking to prime the engine with oil.


 Thank you! I should have realized injectors instead of spark plugs.. Thanks though! 

- ordered SEM this morning from CTS


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Well, I got paid today, but the USRT tubular control group buy ended a day or two ago.. I pm'd Scott so hopefully they will let me slip in on the group buy.. Fingers crossed!


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Apexi avcr install-- few questions.. 

1) I have the Bentley manual and looked up the vss signal, rpm signal, and tps. 
- now, I know the vss can be pulled from the back of the cluster as well, but my main concern is the tps and rpm signal has me worried.. I started on this yesterday after working on the car all afternoon. The first issue, I spliced into the rpm sensor instead of signal :facepalm: then was going for a green/brown wire. Well, when you pull the tape off red looks an awful lot like brown when it's used as the trace on the covering.. Stopped here, wasn't going to eff anything else up til I slept on it. 

2) in the wiring diagram index, I used the 2000-2001 standard equipment diagram. My method was to find the signals on the index and use the colored wire that is linked to J220(ECM) in the index. I'm not new to electricity, but these wiring diagrams aren't the best in my opinion. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated! I'll post up pictures of my diagrams and the highlighted wires I think are correct. 
-get off work at 12 and will post them up then. 

- I really didn't want to take a chance and use a random guide on here with wire colors.. I'm pretty meticulous and second guessed myself, so I have come to the tex for support


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

In to see how the gonzo bt file runs


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Dave926 said:


> In to see how the gonzo bt file runs


 That makes two of us! I have The VagCom to run logs and try to remote tune. My goal is to get it running and get through the break-in period. Once that happens, I will get it on the dyno and let the real tuning begin


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## mk4boost (Jul 31, 2010)

those awic's are so gangster... 

opcorn: good luck with the remainder


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Well, I owe a huge thanks to Clay @ CTS for getting me an SEM manifold! It will be on its away along with a transition spacer and new injector inserts! :thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Battery talk- 

Looking for a lightweight battery that will be relocated inside the cab behind the drivers seat. I am currently looking at Braille's line, but wanted to get some advice on CCA. I live in Oklahoma so its 110 degrees in the summer and


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

I was wondering why I haven't heard from you in a while. Can't wait till you have this setup running so we can get the tune dialed in :thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> I was wondering why I haven't heard from you in a while. Can't wait till you have this setup running so we can get the tune dialed in :thumbup:


 Sorry man, been trying to get everything together with work and school as well :/ 

I shipped off my throttle body to FFE yesterday. Clay had a manifold but it was the 75mm flange, so Ed is gonna port it out and get it to work with his Hemi throttle body!! Thanks again guys! :thumbup: 
The new fuel lines, brake stiffening kit, subframe bushings, and Defcons will be here thursday.. THe care will be done then except for the intake manifold and routing the piping! :beer:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

--Just a side story for those wanting the ST coilovers.. 

- I ordered the setup from HPA motorsports (great price too!). Unfortunately, the product code on the FWD was for AWD. The picture in this thread is actually the wrong rear struts. Now, I didnt put these on for a month or two after ordering, so I didnt find out til weeks later.. I called HPA and got a hold of Darrell. He worked with the supplier to get me new rear struts and had prepaid shipping so I could send them the wrong struts back to them! Everything was handled quickly and professionally.. I highly recommend HPA for the great customer service and communication :thumbup:


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## BlueSleeper (Nov 9, 2002)

seth_3515 said:


> Everything was handled quickly and professionally.. I highly recommend HPA for the great customer service and communication :thumbup:


 Hahahahahahaha, that won't always be the case. They still owe me a couple $k, still have my spec clutch, ignored their own warrenty, and dragged me along for over half a year that they had a custom clutch for me.


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## [email protected] (Aug 1, 2011)

seth_3515 said:


> Well, I got paid today, but the USRT tubular control group buy ended a day or two ago.. I pm'd Scott so hopefully they will let me slip in on the group buy.. Fingers crossed!


 I know Scott said No, but check your pm. I think I have a solution :laugh:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> I know Scott said No, but check your pm. I think I have a solution :laugh:


 In Scott's defense he was trying to be fair to everyone, I cant blame him for that.. But I think the proposed solution is quite wonderful! :beer:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

BlueSleeper said:


> Hahahahahahaha, that won't always be the case. They still owe me a couple $k, still have my spec clutch, ignored their own warrenty, and dragged me along for over half a year that they had a custom clutch for me.


 I cant speak for your situation, but Darrell was awesome to work with! :thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

fuel lines will be here tonight! im really excited about this! 

-6AN Twist-tite Blue lines 
-6AN Twist-tite fittings 
-5/16 barb to -6AN fittings- Replacing stock fuel filter with direct replacement from ECS and then stepping up to the -6AN line.. 

-this is only a temporary solution. After some breathing time, I will upgrade the intank fuel pump and run a surge tank with bosch 044 pump.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Need to order a few more fittings, but its almost there.. 

























-AWIC heat exchanger in the A/C condensers place.


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

I like this:beer:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Mindfault said:


> I like this:beer:


 Thanks man! I appreciate it! hopefully I will have the manifold in a week or two and finally make some real progress :thumbup:


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

Is there someway I can convince you to run 830cc's instead of 870cc's? Lol I hate Siemens injectors.


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

^opcorn::thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

yes if we need to, amy recommendations on brand?


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

Racetronix tri cone spray. They are a flowmatched set:thumbup: but whatever gonzo recommends!


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Mindfault said:


> ^opcorn::thumbup:


 this


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Mindfault said:


> Racetronix tri cone spray. They are a flowmatched set:thumbup: but whatever gonzo recommends!


 I'll definitely keep them in mind, but I'll go with the brand that gonzo has had the best experience tuning with (not sure which that is yet, he will chime in here today I'm sure)


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

USRT tubular LCA's are on order! I really want to set up a legit comparison test between the Defcons and USRT arms.. I am looking for help from others to come up with measurable, objective categories (and ways to obtain data) to find a way to empirically formulate a decision.. sorry, science nerd here and want to do a better comparison than, yup I put them on and they are the shizzle, etc.. :thumbup:


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

seth_3515 said:


> yes if we need to, amy recommendations on brand?


 Delphi 830's should be OK. I have a base file for them and IMO they are better but I have a base file for Siemens 870cc's as well. Its just some cars need tweaking with these injectors for some reason. I guess if you have them we can go ahead with them and if you decide to replace them, I can send you a new file.


Mindfault said:


> Racetronix tri cone spray. They are a flowmatched set:thumbup: but whatever gonzo recommends!


 I like the sound of flow matched injectors :thumbup::thumbup:
How do you like yours?


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

They're good injectors, pretty much the same price as any other big injector. The reason i like them is because they are flowmatched to get rid of inconsistancies in any 1 cylinder regarding to flow. This way you know each injector will flow the same with the same pulse width. With any other injectors you could be buying a 830cc injector, and in reality it may only flow 820 or something like that where the other 3 could be flowing 830. If you want your engine squared away, and want each injector to be spot on i would recommend getting a flowmatched set from racetronix. Also i got a free t-shirt. Good company:thumbup:


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

Also, the spray pattern is great for our 20 valve heads.:beer:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

picked up some stainless brake lines too :thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Racetronix 79lb injectors on the way! 

-Siemens 870cc injectors for sale..


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## [email protected] (Aug 1, 2011)

seth_3515 said:


> USRT tubular LCA's are on order! I really want to set up a legit comparison test between the Defcons and USRT arms.. I am looking for help from others to come up with measurable, objective categories (and ways to obtain data) to find a way to empirically formulate a decision.. sorry, science nerd here and want to do a better comparison than, yup I put them on and they are the shizzle, etc.. :thumbup:


:thumbup:


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## carbide01 (Jul 12, 2003)

USRT > Defcons....

Nice to see someone else building a nutty TT


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Pulled the control arms this morning to have the Defcon bushings pressed in today for the comparison and got started on the solid subframe bushings as well :thumbup:

-Also, calling FFE today to make sure they got my throttle body I shipped and the SEM manifold from CTS. Hopefully have that back asap and itll be ready to fire up opcorn:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

carbide01 said:


> USRT > Defcons....
> 
> Nice to see someone else building a nutty TT


:beer:


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

Good injector choice:beer::thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Mindfault said:


> Good injector choice:beer::thumbup:


did a little reasearch on them and they really intrigued me so I had to snatch a set up, all thanks to you :beer:


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## tedgram (Jul 2, 2005)

Will keep an eye on this thread! :thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Made an offer or two on some used small port heads.. Ill be nabbing one up, send it to the machine shop for pnp and start acquiring accessories to build a head to rev out to 8200-8500 rpms or so. Keep in mind this will be expensive and is more of a long term project lol opcorn:


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

Cylinder heads are expensive to build i recommend i.e. cams, springs and retainers! Goodluck with everything


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Called FFE today, the manifold got there today (throttle body was there monday) and they will be in touch as soon as its ready :thumbup: depending on the machine fee, i may have them express ship it just because.. :laugh:


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

Ballin


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

In all seriousness, would you guys drive this car 900 miles one way with a tool kit of course. The reason I ask, I found out my uncle was diagnosed with pancreatic cancer.. My family is leaving Friday, (which because of school and work, I wont be able to go so soon) I am debating driving up there on my own and I personally think the audi could take it. All highway and I'll be babying it the whole way. I of course would drive it for a bit to make sure all is well with tune and stuff, but I think I have talked myself into doing it.. Ill be traveling to Biloxi, MS from Oklahoma. :wave:

-ill get the oil changed before and retorque the head after a few heat cycles before as well.. ill have a full set of tools to work with just in case, and Ill bring extra plugs and macguyver(sp?) **** like duct tape, paper clips, and zip ties.. What else?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

seth_3515 said:


> In all seriousness, would you guys drive this car 900 miles one way with a tool kit of course. The reason I ask, I found out my uncle was diagnosed with pancreatic cancer.. My family is leaving Friday, (which because of school and work, I wont be able to go so soon) I am debating driving up there on my own and I personally think the audi could take it. All highway and I'll be babying it the whole way. I of course would drive it for a bit to make sure all is well with tune and stuff, but I think I have talked myself into doing it.. Ill be traveling to Biloxi, MS from Oklahoma. :wave:
> 
> -ill get the oil changed before and retorque the head after a few heat cycles before as well.. ill have a full set of tools to work with just in case, and Ill bring extra plugs and macguyver(sp?) **** like duct tape, paper clips, and zip ties.. What else?


couple misc hose clamps and a gal of water couldn't hurt :thumbup: good luck w/ the trip :beer:


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

How much time do you have to run logs? I think I can get your car running decently enough to get you there in just a day. It's all about tuning for the injectors, really.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> How much time do you have to run logs? I think I can get your car running decently enough to get you there in just a day. It's all about tuning for the injectors, really.


I was thinking a week or so to tune, wasnt trying to rush you to do it in a day lol :beer: Just waiting on the tubular control arms and the SEM manifold from FFE..


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Got some stuff done today and last night.. 
-Put the ECS brake lines on
-25mm rear spacers are on (gonna look damn god when the cars sittin on the ground) 
-Received my new compressor housing oring and accessory belt for A/C delete (fit perfectly, Thanks Al!) 
-Fuel lines are all ran and hooked up to the Walbro
-USRT solid subframe bushings are in


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Got the front spacers and Racetronix injectors last night :thumbup: unfortunately, I am waiting to get my tubular control arms before I put my wheels back on so they will have to wait..


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

seth_3515 said:


> I was thinking a week or so to tune, wasnt trying to rush you to do it in a day lol :beer: Just waiting on the tubular control arms and the SEM manifold from FFE..


 I can get you up and running in a day so you can move the car... I didn't say you could set you up to do full boost in just one day 


seth_3515 said:


> Got the front spacers and Racetronix injectors last night :thumbup: unfortunately, I am waiting to get my tubular control arms before I put my wheels back on so they will have to wait..


 Sweet


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> I can get you up and running in a day so you can move the car... I didn't say you could set you up to do full boost in just one day
> 
> Sweet


lol didnt mean it to sound like full boost. Im not so worried about the numbers, I just want to run it reliably for now :thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Well, I had purchased a set of cables form a part out and went to snap the shifter links to the transmission and broke one  Ill be picking up a HD set from USRT along with the solid shifter bushings :thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Ordered new USRT sway bar bushings, steering rack bushings, and HD shifter cable ends  they subframe is dismantled until all the bushings and tubular control arms come in so I can put it together all at once.


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## mk4boost (Jul 31, 2010)

seth_3515 said:


> Ordered new USRT sway bar bushings, steering rack bushings, and HD shifter cable ends  they subframe is dismantled until all the bushings and tubular control arms come in so I can put it together all at once.


USRT FTW! lol...

nice seeing you moving this project along pretty quickly :thumbup::beer:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Kind of necessary since i don't have another car :/ 

- I love my Audi, but I been racing motorcycles since I was 8. Ride til You Die! It was my first winter to be without a car and I have a new found respect for a reliable vehicle now as well lol


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## [email protected] (Aug 1, 2011)

:thumbup: Awesome to see things are coming together.

You have pm sir


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## zrau17 (Apr 21, 2010)

seth_3515 said:


> In all seriousness, would you guys drive this car 900 miles one way with a tool kit of course. The reason I ask, I found out my uncle was diagnosed with pancreatic cancer.. My family is leaving Friday, (which because of school and work, I wont be able to go so soon) I am debating driving up there on my own and I personally think the audi could take it. All highway and I'll be babying it the whole way. I of course would drive it for a bit to make sure all is well with tune and stuff, but I think I have talked myself into doing it.. Ill be traveling to Biloxi, MS from Oklahoma. :wave:
> 
> -ill get the oil changed before and retorque the head after a few heat cycles before as well.. ill have a full set of tools to work with just in case, and Ill bring extra plugs and macguyver(sp?) **** like duct tape, paper clips, and zip ties.. What else?


Do it. If you trust your work there's no reason not to. People say that **** to me all the time when I work on my car. "What if something happens, what if something breaks?" Well if the work was done correctly that shouldn't happen. I had my turbo, manifold, IC piping, oil lines, coolant lines, and basically everything turbo related out of my car last night and finished putting it all together around 9:45. Didn't even start it, went to bed...woke up this morning and drove to school with no problem lol

I always keep coolant, oil, tool set, jack, and other random things like some hose clamps, electrical tape, zip ties, all that good stuff. It's honestly saved me a couple times with stupid ****. That, and I'm basically a garage on wheels :laugh:

Also, nice build :thumbup: Was looking into TT's when buying a car and noticed I never really saw many big turbo project TT's. Nice to see a quality one happening.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

In all honesty, Im feeling very comfortable with my work. I have retorqued everything on the engine at least twice and there will be a final torque down before starting. Im really excited to get it going. I have lost interest in putting out insane dyno numbers (dont get me wrong I want it to be powerful) but I also discovered a local race organization that holds a street series (road track, Hallett Raceway in Tulsa) with races once a month :thumbup: Its the main reason I have been spending a lot time on the suspension and trying to get it to out handle the power :laugh: I really have been looking into rebuilding the head so I can increase my rev range and have more area under the curve, but also have a highway monster to play with since it wil see a lot of miles 

- If the turbo is too laggy for the track I may just pick a smaller "race" turbo, extra ECU and injectors. That way I can have the best of both worlds with just a switch of the turbo, ecu, and injectors.. eace:

- also debating powdercoating the subframe red to match the USRT control arms but not sure yet.. May wait for the development of the tubular subframe


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## [email protected] (Aug 1, 2011)

zrau17 said:


> Do it. If you trust your work there's no reason not to. People say that **** to me all the time when I work on my car. "What if something happens, what if something breaks?" Well if the work was done correctly that shouldn't happen. I had my turbo, manifold, IC piping, oil lines, coolant lines, and basically everything turbo related out of my car last night and finished putting it all together around 9:45. Didn't even start it, went to bed...woke up this morning and drove to school with no problem lol
> 
> I always keep coolant, oil, tool set, jack, and other random things like some hose clamps, electrical tape, zip ties, all that good stuff. It's honestly saved me a couple times with stupid ****. That, and I'm basically a garage on wheels :laugh:
> 
> Also, nice build :thumbup: Was looking into TT's when buying a car and noticed I never really saw many big turbo project TT's. Nice to see a quality one happening.


:wave: Great to see you got it done, sorry I couldn't help with that gasket


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## zrau17 (Apr 21, 2010)

seth_3515 said:


> In all honesty, Im feeling very comfortable with my work. I have retorqued everything on the engine at least twice and there will be a final torque down before starting. Im really excited to get it going. I have lost interest in putting out insane dyno numbers (dont get me wrong I want it to be powerful) but I also discovered a local race organization that holds a street series (road track, Hallett Raceway in Tulsa) with races once a month :thumbup: Its the main reason I have been spending a lot time on the suspension and trying to get it to out handle the power :laugh: I really have been looking into rebuilding the head so I can increase my rev range and have more area under the curve, but also have a highway monster to play with since it wil see a lot of miles
> 
> - If the turbo is too laggy for the track I may just pick a smaller "race" turbo, extra ECU and injectors. That way I can have the best of both worlds with just a switch of the turbo, ecu, and injectors.. eace:


Exactly. A built head is my future plan. Expensive process so, I probably won't be doing it until next year but oh well. Having the option of just swapping turbos for two setups would be nice :thumbup:



[email protected] said:


> :wave: Great to see you got it done, sorry I couldn't help with that gasket


Nah it's cool. After I wiped the asked down the raised rings to seat it were like perfect, they all had a perfect shiny circle where they sealed and there's not a single leak anywhere. It'll come off soon anyway for the head gasket and get replaced :thumbup:


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

You can use the same ECU/injectors for two different turbo setups. If you want, we can test with map switching and some other nice features I've been working on which will eventually make their way to my Stage2+ and higher tunes.

It'd be super neat if you could bolt up two turbos and just have a way to select which one you want to run on the fly, though.

Get this car ready already so I can start tuning for these injectors! BTW did you get a injector spec sheet with your order? I'm going to need that.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

I love the sound of map switching! I'm not getting too ahead of myself though. Depending on how the car likes the track I may run a 2871r or something inbetween if it's too much for the track. I did not get spec sheet now that it comes to mind. Can I send them in to be flowed and specd so there is no guessing? I really want this build to be quality and reliable so if I need to do that I will. I'm calling FFE today to see where the manifold is as well


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## zrau17 (Apr 21, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> It'd be super neat if you could bolt up two turbos and just have a way to select which one you want to run on the fly, though.


VERY possible, actually...easy. It wouldn't come cheap though. Say he ran a top mount V-band exhaust manifold....all he would have to do is have the two turbos have a V-band inlet and outlet of he same size, and use the same size fittings (preferably -AN fittings for ease of use) for the coolant and oil lines. As for the compressor side, just have whatever size silicone adaptors needed if the inlet/outlet sizes on them are different.

Granted I just threw down a couple thousand dollar idea, it's possible lol


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Justin pm'd yesterday and informed me they were waiting on the conversion ball joints to send me my control arms. They should be to me in a few days. :thumbup: I tried calling FFE yesterday but got voicemail so I will try again today to get an update on the SEM and Hemi TB. 

-Two turbos would be too much weight. I really like the way i have things set up now. If I wanted to be ultra cool, I could have a second turbo (3" vband exhaust) and manifold. I could swap them out within 30 minutes and throw in the injectors and ecu for a track setup :thumbup: If only, if only.. As of right now Ill probably just gather parts to rebuild the head then worry about other things :laugh:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Still waiting on parts  I called FFE on Thursday and Friday. Phone went to voicemail so I left a message.. I'm calling again Monday to see what's up. Hopefully have my parts soon.

- Dialed the wrong number so dont use this as negative feedback for FFE..


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

No wonder FFE would never pick up.. I dialed 613 instead of 631 area code :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: Ill be calling today to check on the manifold. I pmd Justin @USRT about the control arms (we were waiting on the ball joints) I finally got my tax return and as soon as I hear from both FFE and USRT Ill be upgrading my shipping to the fastest I can lol :thumbup: I still cant believe I dialed the wrong number twice.. :facepalm:


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## [email protected] (Aug 1, 2011)

Sent you a pm. Everything is on its way to you:thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Thank you sir! Since I actually dialed the right number for FFE today  They answered and are calling me back to let me know where they are at with the manifold! Its wonderful to have such good people to work with!

- Also order the USRT caster/camber plates today :thumbup: Thanks to the IRS.. Actually I hate the IRS. Bunch of bull**** with the Federal Reserve charging interest to the government for money and no limits on printing money and driving down the dollar as well with other factors.. :facepalm: /rant


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## [email protected] (Aug 1, 2011)

:wave:

Camber/Caster Plates shipped :thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

:sly: are you a ninja? thats hella fast :beer::beer:

-just talked to my dad.. I am scheduled to graduate uni in May. He hinted if the car is running well he would be down to help out financially on some stainless exhaust valves (I may be ordering these before since they are only $150; then just have to have them installed.. never done valves so not too comfortable on DIY) and w/m injection for a grad present.. But, the kicker is he said it has to beat a 12.1 in the 1/4 before :laugh: (thats what his toy would run when he was younger)


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

nevermind, I bit the bullet and ordered them just to be safe.. Anyone done these? The head was professionally rebuilt.. Ill I need is to replace the exhaust valves. Any special tools needed? I just am very meticulous when it comes to messing with the internals..


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Pulling the head this weekend and having the exhaust valves replaced so there isnt any need to worry :thumbup:


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

A 12 should be more than doable but its FWD right?
It should be fun trying to put all this power down


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## [email protected] (Aug 1, 2011)

seth_3515 said:


> :sly: are you a ninja? thats hella fast :beer::beer:


I wouldn't call myself a ninja, but we do try to get orders as fast as possible. Plus why keep you waiting. :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> A 12 should be more than doable but its FWD right?
> It should be fun trying to put all this power down


Yup and Im hoping the LSD, boost per gear, and some nice wide, slick tires help with that :thumbup: plus with the adjustability from all the suspension goodies i'll be playing with it quite a bit to get the most traction possible.


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## zrau17 (Apr 21, 2010)

seth_3515 said:


> Pulling the head this weekend and having the exhaust valves replaced so there isnt any need to worry :thumbup:


This may seem like a ridiculous question, but I've never pulled my head before so I don't know. How are you completely draining the coolant from the head? I'm about to do my head gasket but I'm scared if I somehow end up with some coolant left over in the head when I pull it off the coolants just gonna go spilling all over and get into **** it shouldn't get in to.

Still excited to see this coming along, wish I had the money to upgrade my exhaust valves.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Nice TT build :thumbup:

The only thing I feel you got lazy with are the coilovers. Why these entry-level coils with such an impressive build otherwise?


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Remember that the coolant is a closed system.. If you are draining the fluid, drain from the lowest point in the system and te liquid will remove itself. Pull your lower coolant hose to drain and flush with distiller water since you are putting new in anyways..


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Nice TT build :thumbup:
> 
> The only thing I feel you got lazy with are the coilovers. Why these entry-level coils with such an impressive build otherwise?


Because it is fwd. I am contemplating an AWD swap later on, then I'll be going with a high end system.. It I decide against this I will be upgrading later on. 

- as far as the exhaust valves, I'm going to save up and do the springs, retainers, and intake valves at the same time. So the car is down only once and I don't have to pay twice to build it. With graduation coming up I should have the money fairly quickly. Also that way the car is down only once, Ill just be easy on it daily and not run it to the limits just yet..


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Just wanted some other opinions on two things.. 
1) USRT suggested 8.5degrees of caster and -2 degrees camber. I plan on using the ball joint as my reference point and using a pendulum to give me a straight side to work with. If I take the tangent of 8.5 degrees multiplied by the distance between the ball joint and top mounting point of the coil overs that should give me a rough idea of the distance I need to adjustable te caster plate to achieve 8.5 degrees.. Does this sound about right? Does anyone have tips or input? 

2) is there a difference between the APH head and other small ports? I am looking to get another small port to build off the car and found one cheap but wasn't sure if it was smaller or any different since its from the 150hp beetle


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

seth_3515 said:


> Just wanted some other opinions on two things..
> 1) USRT suggested 8.5degrees of caster and -2 degrees camber. I plan on using the ball joint as my reference point and using a pendulum to give me a straight side to work with. If I take the tangent of 8.5 degrees multiplied by the distance between the ball joint and top mounting point of the coil overs that should give me a rough idea of the distance I need to adjustable te caster plate to achieve 8.5 degrees.. Does this sound about right? Does anyone have tips or input?


Your technique for measuring and adjusting caster sounds about right if carried properly. I'm not a fan of the USRT camber and caster suggestion though ( don't get me wrong, I have the outmost respect for them ). Can you explain the rationale behind only dialing -2 degree of static camber on a car with such horrible camber curve and mix that with conservative caster? 

Words of advice, if you have caster adjustability max it out (trust me on this). The dynamic camber gain from the added caster will make a world of difference with limited drawbacks ( slightly number steering ), especially if you can't be more aggressive on the static camber compensation for some reason. 

If I were to give you suggestions, I would said max out your caster ( the chassis does not have much room for improvement anyway, so can't go too far ). Dial a much more sporty -2.5 to -2.6 degrees of static camber. Zero front toe and you won't get any significant accelerated tire wear.

Now where am I basing all this from? Experience with the chassis in street and motorsport situations. I have also modeled the entire suspension for this platform, so I'm not just giving you "general" suggestions. For example, we need around -5 degrees of front static camber at stock caster to get the tire perpendicular to the ground plane at full load and sticky tires. With added caster however (I have added about 2 degrees with custom ball joint relocating plates in my car) -2.6 degrees of camber gets the same result but with much better exit speed ( less static neg camber allows much better dynamic traction at exit especially without a front LSD). :beer:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Your technique for measuring and adjusting caster sounds about right if carried properly. I'm not a fan of the USRT camber and caster suggestion though ( don't get me wrong, I have the outmost respect for them ). Can you explain the rationale behind only dialing -2 degree of static camber on a car with such horrible camber curve and mix that with conservative caster?
> 
> Words of advice, if you have caster adjustability max it out (trust me on this). The dynamic camber gain from the added caster will make a world of difference with limited drawbacks ( slightly number steering ), especially if you can't be more aggressive on the static camber compensation for some reason.
> 
> ...


Thank you! I plan on carrying it out by using a plumb bob and adjust it to sit right over the ball joint and start from there, get it as close as i can then take it in and have the alignment adjusted and have then double check the toe and camber. I got these specs from Justin and Scott at USRT as a reference point to start and see how I liked it. I wasn't too sure how much caster would be too much, so I hit them up and the y gave me the reference. As far as the camber, I had assumed 2-3 degree would be my stopping point before getting excess tire wear which I really don't want.. But thank you so much for the advice I greatly appreciate it!


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Not trying to call you out either but do you have any way to prove your claim of modeling the suspension? I just like to see who's advice I'm taking and not just someone blowin smoke up my ass. I'm not trying to be a dick but just want to verify if possible sO i can weight your advice properly in my final decision.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

seth_3515 said:


> Not trying to call you out either but do you have any way to prove your claim of modeling the suspension? I just like to see who's advice I'm taking and not just someone blowin smoke up my ass. I'm not trying to be a dick but just want to verify if possible sO i can weight your advice properly in my final decision.



I hope this is proof enough for you, I have a lot more since nothing was left behind. A few screen shots of the modeling I had on a thread about the platform's suspension in the MK1 TT forum. I am sure you have seen it but if not a simple search under "let's talk TT suspension" will guide you.


685/1150 lbs default spring rates on the mighty H&R RSS clubsports 



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Swaybar rates, plotted with bushing and linkage deflection.
(blue is front and red is rear, you can also notice how my front bar rate is reduced, when compared to the much smaller rear stock bar because I modified the bar by lengthening the mounting points of the lever arms) 


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Tire size and deflection


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

685/1150 lbs combo wheel rates (I needed a bit more rear rate but had plans to upgrade to 1300 rear springs)



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Dynamic loads in a 1.2 G steady state left turn (excuse the bimmer pic, it was engraved when the program was built). At 1.2G with this setup I still have all 4 wheel on the ground, wich is good.)


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Since I mentioned the need for stiffer springs in the back for a more optimal wheel rate, I should post the effect it will have on the car's behavior (that's the beauty of modeling a suspension, you can tell in advance what a modification will do). 

New rear spring rate of 1300lbs



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

New dynamic behavior with the 1300lbs springs and same 1.2 G left turn
The right rear tire is slightly unloaded and off the ground but not by much( negative number in red, by the bimmer's left rear tire, illustrates a wheel in the air). I will be compromising some traction at 1.2G and up, but will gain a lot more grip under 1.2G force and better front weight distribution when loaded. So overall, it's worth it :beer::beer::beer:.




Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/QUOTE]


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Yes, I have seen it! I just didnt know your screen name and saw you just joined so I wasnt sure what was up.. but props :thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Got the solid subframe bushings pressed in today.. Took everything off the subframe and swaybar so when the bushing kit comes in everything is ready to be thrown in :thumbup: all the suspension goodies should be in Monday or Tuesday, I forgot which.. but I also got ahold of FFE on Friday and there he was working on a project and mine was next in line so the manifold should be getting shipped soon. He is going to call before he ships to give me the machine fee and then if I have enough ill have the manifold express shipped to me.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

just got a 1.8t motor that was ran with no oil off craigslist for $100 :laugh: Ill be stripping the head, having it pnp and thinking about building a stroker bottom end opcorn:


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## zrau17 (Apr 21, 2010)

seth_3515 said:


> just got a 1.8t motor that was ran with no oil off craigslist for $100 :laugh: Ill be stripping the head, having it pnp and thinking about building a stroker bottom end opcorn:


:what:

That's awesome.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

zrau17 said:


> :what:
> 
> That's awesome.


Ill be posting pics after i pick it up tomorrow evening 

-I love Craigslist because people never know what they have.. ALso, picked up oversized main bearings (forum member) and a stroker crank (ebay $200)... :whisper: 95.5mm..


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## [email protected] (Aug 1, 2011)

Looks like some serious progress


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Got the heat exchanger mounted to the radiator an on the radiator support as well.. I ended having to modify the radiator support with a cutting wheel and dremel tool to clear the 3/4" water lines. The rear suspension is complete and will have the front suspension done soon as well. Still waitin on the manifold so I can get the intercooler and stuff mounted. Been practicing up on the soldering iron as well so I can start wiring up te EBC as well. Everything is going pretty good with only some minor set backs.. Nothing a little creativity and ingenuity couldn't solve! I'm hoping to have this running by spring break.. Just waiting on a few more parts.. I also ordered an inline fuel pressure gauge to mount next to the fuel rail as well as an oil pressure gauge adapter. 

- is anyone using Teflon or pipe compound to seal up the oil and fuel connections? I didn't at first but second guessing myself. It won't take 20 minutes to do it if I need to ad just want to eliminate any leaks. Ill be picking up my extra engine this evening as well!! It's been a good productive day!


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

One more thing.. To simply the exhaust system and loss a little weight im thinking about running a passenger side side mount exhaust.. I know it'll be loud and I like loud  but I don't want a 3" diameter tip to hit the ground or anything do I was thing of welding up a square tip with the same surface area of exit as a 3" round tip.. I thought about a slash cut 3" tip but think it would be better to go rectangular To have a bit more ground clearance.. Thoughts? I could also go with a twin 2.5" single side exit as well.. I just want to to look halfway decent..


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

just need control arms and a manifold... to finish her up.. God she is getting sexier everyday 

-if you look at the side of the intercool you can see a hole that was drilled. Im taking the intercooler in today to have the MAP flange welded here.
- here is my idea for getting close to the 8.5 or so degrees of caster using a plumbob over the ball joint for my straight side. 

swaybar bushings came in last night and they are on and ready to go as well :thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Got the Caster/Camber plates in today.. I have to say I wasnt too impressed with Kmacs included instructions. They definitely could have been a little more informative and detailed. I did get the first one in and sent a few pics to USRT to confirm they were installed correctly before I start on the other side and bolt torque everything down. Ill keep updating as I hear from USRT and get the other one installed and provide pics and probably a DIY for future users.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Well, I ordered a head tool to remove my head.. I decided to go ahead and upgrade the exhaust valves since they are here and the control arms and manifold are taking awhile.. I one of the USRT caster camber plates in (getting the urethane lip inplace was a SOB.. So i decided to wait to do the other one so i can get a little weight on there and help pop them through. Otherwise I have done some small projects on it here and there. Getting ready to cut into the harness for the EBC but will post pics of my finds in the Bentley to make sure im getting the right wires. :thumbup: I am soldering them and not just splicing so they will be secure.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Head tool was ordered yesterday and is currently on schedule to be at my door by the end of the day :thumbup::thumbup: Removed the brake calipers and gave them another spray. (Its pretty, sue me) I also installed the tyrolsport brake stiffening kit. It was VERY easy to install and we will see how well they work. I am going to do a BBK at the same time I get new wheels so I am sure to get the fitment right the first time. This is only a temp solution.

- got to study for plant physiology test tomorrow and then ill be tearing into the motor to get the head off that afternoon :beer:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Head is off and at the machine shop getting the valves replaced! Got ahold of FFE and ill have my manifold next week and just waiting on my control arms. Things are starting to come together!


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Ordered the Dynomax Racing Bullet series muffler, yeah itll be loud.. I also got a 3 position relay module to power the awic water pump, inline fuel pump and EBC (gauges also). Hopefully the parts will start coming in this week (manifold and control arms) and then I can get this thing running.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

I am officially at a complete standstill until I get my manifold, control arms, head, and relay module.. :banghead::banghead::banghead:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Control arms were shipped today, the manifold should be shipped today, relay module and exhaust parts will be here tomorrow :thumbup: Issam helped me out so much today with the throttle body and manifold issues I ran into!


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

I should have a test file for those injectors tomorrow since you sent me the injector specs!


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> I should have a test file for those injectors tomorrow since you sent me the injector specs!


Wonderful! Anything you need to help out just let me know! 

-relay module and exhaust will be in today so I wil get a bunch of wiring done. Won't be able to tap to ignition wire just yet though.. Engine shop has the Bentley to replace head for torque specs and I would rather double check and get it right the first time. I can definitely get a lot of petty chit done though.


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## 87vr6 (Jan 17, 2002)

In for your dyno sheets too!! lolz


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

ill post em as soon as I got em!


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

The TDI (95.5mm) crank came in today!! I have the oversized main bearings as well.. I looked it up on Eagle website to be sure and they use the 20mm wrist pins (0.79in)!!! This means I just need some oversized rod bearings and stroker pistons to build a 2.1L bottom end :snowcool: Itll be awhile before I can afford the pistons, but I will be putting back and possibly start the bottom end build in the winter :thumbup:


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

Are you available for a flash session tonight?


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

yes, what time? all I need is the ecu to be hooked up to the fuse panel correct? nothing is connected to the engine.. I do have the wiring harness in and can plug the ecu in.


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

Yeah. As long as you can turn ignition on, it will work.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Ok.. Ill get it wired up so I can turn the ignition on today :thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

few small problems.. distribution block isnt in my electrical parts bin  I found someone selling a used one on here and hope to hear from them soon.. I got called in to work 1430-2300 the next two days as well  , also have not gotten a tracking number from FFE called at noon and they were shipping it today.. Called twice since and havent gotten an answer. :banghead::banghead::banghead: Everything else is on its way with a tracking number. Props to Issam at INA as well. He completely bent over backwards to help me out and I am very appreciative.

- got a fuse block from a member  soooo much better than $100+ bucks for a new one :thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

The head will be ready tomorrow. I called FFE again today and he said he thought  it shipped yesterday.. guess we will see. They said they would call back but havent.. Anywho, I got the 3 position relay module installed. Got the dual gauge pod (steering wheel) installed along with the boost and wideband gauge wired up. Just waiting on the Supra A-pillar to install the pygrometer and Oil pressure gauges. Also, installed the heat exchanger fan to the awic heat exchanger. Hopefully they shipped the manifold and it will be here this weekend.. Everything else is on the way and Im making as much progress as I can before work.. :thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Head is back on, motor is in the car, new muffler was put on and fit like a dream.. Gonna make my 90 corner tomorrow for the side exit system. Hopefully my manifold and fuse block show up tomorrow or ill have to wait til monday to start her up. :wave: 

lost 2 bolts and broke my ground capacitor.. Ill be headed to the local parts store to replace the bolts and head to Radioshack to grab a new capacitor. Not a big deal but minor inconvenience is all


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

need some more pics I love pics


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Rear tire mounted to check fitment.. 225's on 16" rims with 25mm spacers 









3position relay module, will power fuel pump, awic water pump, gauges and ebc.. Battery will be mounted right next to it and I am going to build a custom cover. 









- engine looks the same since im waiting on the manifold to get here :banghead:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Power steering relocated. 









Radiator support put on. 









topside.. 









bottom side.. 









start of the side exit. 









where its headed.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Control arms will be here today. The fuse block should be here today or tomorrow and still waiting on the damn manifold and 4.7 microfarad 110v capacitor but Im going to an electrical motor shop today to see if they have one. Just got to get an oil restrictor then I'm good to go!


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## [email protected] (Aug 1, 2011)

seth_3515 said:


> Control arms will be here today. The fuse block should be here today or tomorrow and still waiting on the damn manifold and 4.7 microfarad 110v capacitor but Im going to an electrical motor shop today to see if they have one. Just got to get an oil restrictor then I'm good to go!


 :thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

UPS always delivers late evenings to my house.. So I stopped te shipment at the facility so I can pick them up as soon as I get off in 2 hours  hopefully everything else will be here today. Already talked to Issam about an oil restrictor and have to get the thread pitch and it will be on the way! :snowcool: things are coming together..


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Thanks to Issam and his wonderful skills getting me a custom adapter and new throttle body :thumbup: 









USRT tubular control arms. The spacers are in the packing :facepalm: lmao --old ball joints got stuck so I have to remove the axles from the spindles tomorrow to get a good swing at em.. 









modified supra A-pillar and modified MKIV double gauge steering wheel pod :wave:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content










Drilling holes in the intercooler brackets I made.. Drill bit got stuck, ripped the L bracket out of the clamp and right on my arm.. :thumbdown: No worries though, the bone stopped it :screwy:


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## [email protected] (Aug 1, 2011)

That looks like it hurt just a little. 

Glad to see it all coming together though :thumbup::beer:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> That looks like it hurt just a little.
> 
> Glad to see it all coming together though :thumbup::beer:


 just a bit, but got most of the wiring hooked up today. Cant torque anything down though, fractured the wrist but my dad and brother will be here tomorrow and will torque everything down for me :thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)




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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Been thinking about those control arms for my car. I'd be really interested in ride quality feedback and response once you're up and about. Build looks great man, car should rip.


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

Ouch that looks painful....extremely painful :screwy:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

happened so fast I didnt notice the cut but the pain was from the force of the bracket hitting me. I honestly looked down and thought I would have a big bruise but I was wrong.. After stitches and such, I was trying to keep going at it. Was cutting hose for the AWIC when my hand had a sharp pain and spasmed. That made the box blade go right in the other hand.. Asking about stitches on that one tomorrow after xrays.. My whole hand is swollen and when I called they said I should get it xrayed, so ill just get the stitches then. I was done after that :facepalm:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

screwball said:


> Been thinking about those control arms for my car. I'd be really interested in ride quality feedback and response once you're up and about. Build looks great man, car should rip.


 Ill definitely have a full review :thumbup:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Nice progress! I like your turbo to manifold plumbing, it came out really good :thumbup: . 
Quick question, what pump are using on your air-to-water system?


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Nice progress! I like your turbo to manifold plumbing, it came out really good :thumbup: .
> Quick question, what pump are using on your air-to-water system?


Bosch cobra pump from frozen boost. I just made some quick brackets and will draw up a design to send off to the machine shop an have them powder coated. I placed the pump under the frame rail in front of the drivers side front tire. Just used previous holes and bolts for the pump bracket. The pump is set slightly below the bottom heat xchanger outlet. The filler neck is place inbetween the throttle body IC piping and the bumper.

This was not done professionally. I used a propane torch and the square leg of the engine hoist to get a good bend to attach the brackets.. They arent pretty but will work perfectly to get solid measurements for some sexier ones :thumbup:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

seth_3515 said:


> Bosch cobra pump from frozen boost. I just made some quick brackets and will draw up a design to send off to the machine shop an have them powder coated. I placed the pump under the frame rail in front of the drivers side front tire. Just used previous holes and bolts for the pump bracket. The pump is set slightly below the bottom heat xchanger outlet. The filler neck is place inbetween the throttle body IC piping and the bumper.
> 
> This was not done professionally. I used a propane torch and the square leg of the engine hoist to get a good bend to attach the brackets.. They arent pretty but will work perfectly to get solid measurements for some sexier ones :thumbup:


Cool, thanks for sharing! I am working on mine as we speak and would love to see pictures to give me some ideas :thumbup:


----------



## rains (May 30, 2008)

impressive build so far :wave:


----------



## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

I love the a arms I what them


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

I have the test file ready. Lmk whenever you are available.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

well well well, been chasing codes and come to find out the ecu is fried :banghead::banghead: 
now to find a new ecu...


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)




----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Could you post more details on what you did to relocate the power steering resivour? I'd love to get that down there on my TT & don't mind drilling the 3" hole!


----------



## tedgram (Jul 2, 2005)

Waiting for updates on you build!


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

PM me your address so I can send you the new ECU back.

Sorry I took long. I'm just so busy.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Pm'd


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

ECU came in. Plugged it in saturday, the car wouldnt even crank over.. Issue? forgot to ground the block to the chassis. I ohmd it to the chassis and it sat at 48  administered 2 new ground cables and it ohmd out at 0.09 :thumbup: Motor now cranks over but wouldnt start. I was the only one there so I couldnt check the voltage at the fuel pump (intank and inline) but I think I have some wiring issues at the 3 relay board. Inline would work intermittently (could hear it) gauges were working fine then they went out.. So I will be chasing down some wires tomorrow and hopefully starting her up. Its been an uphill battle, but hearing it crank over gave me new hope and a light at the end of the tunnel feeling. Just gotta get the little bugs worked out and hopefully Ill hear her live for the first time in years..

- I did throw 2 engine codes.. I dont remember the numbers (on my PC at the garage, and im on my Mac at home) but there was a missing signal with the instrument cluster and high signal at the CTS. the CTS is brand new from ECS so im a little peeved at this, but it could be the terminal or I could have had a bad sensor after the long down time. Im gonna see if I still have the old black top to throw in and check it, otherwise Ill check the terminal to see if is a wire issue.

- the other code was a lateral acceleration sensor- the car is up on jack stands and the front sits quite a bit higher than the rear. Could this be an issue>?


----------



## VOLKSGLI (Mar 31, 2012)

Nice Workopcorn:


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

VCDS Version: Release 11.11.3 (x64)
Data version: 20120401

Monday,11,June,2012,13:10:27:12722

Chassis Type: 8N - Audi TT
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 17 22 35 37 45 55 56 76 77

Mileage: 143640km/89253miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AWP.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 LP
Component: 870cc BT/GONZO G v1.1 
Coding: 07500
Shop #: WSC 33278 
VCID: 77F3E88855D6651
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXX

4 Faults Found:
18058 - Powertrain Data Bus 
P1650 - 35-00 - Missing Message from Instrument Cluster
17956 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75) 
P1548 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
17939 - Camshaft Timing Adjustment 
P1531 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
17695 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249) 
P1287 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
Readiness: 0100 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8N0-907-379-MK20-E.lbl
Part No: 8N0 907 379 D
Component: ESP 20 CAN V006 
Coding: 23049
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: 3D7F3AA0376A8F1

2 Faults Found:
00283 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Front Left (G47) 
35-00 - - 
01423 - Lateral Acceleration Sensor (G200) 
57-00 - Electric Circuit Failure

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8N0-820-043.lbl
Part No: 8N0 820 043 A
Component: TT-KLIMAVOLLAUTOMAT D03 
Coding: 00140
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: 2851FBF4C8E83A9

1 Fault Found:
00779 - Outside Air Temp Sensor (G17) 
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 8N8-909-601.lbl
Part No: 8N8 909 601 
Component: Airbag Front+Seite 1008 
Coding: 10102
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: F7F36888D5D6E51

5 Faults Found:
65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error 
00-00 - - 
65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error 
00-10 - - - Intermittent
01578 - Airbag Deactivation Warning Lamp; Passenger Side (K145) 
31-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
01217 - Side Airbag Igniter; Driver Side (N199) 
32-10 - Resistance too High - Intermittent
01218 - Side Airbag Igniter; Passenger Side (N200) 
32-10 - Resistance too High - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8Nx-920-xxx-17.lbl
Part No: 8N1 920 930 E
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. M73 D10 
Coding: 06244
Shop #: WSC 25406 
VCID: 336B1C98012E491

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 35: Centr. Locks Labels: 8Nx-962-267.lbl
Part No: 8N8 962 267 A
Component: Central Lock/Alarm D04 
Coding: 15884
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: 3F8340A83D669D1

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 45: Inter. Monitor Labels: 8E0-951-177.lbl
Part No: 8N8 951 177 
Component: Innenraumueberw. D09 
Coding: 00001
Shop #: WSC 00000 
VCID: FCF977A4ECF0C69

No fault code found.

End ---------------------------------------------------------------------


- I have all the deletes.. I dont understand why the N249 and N75 are showing up? Do i still need to put resistors on them?
-looking up the cam timing adjustment now..


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

was jsut looking around the cam tensioner and found the half moon blew out.. Is it wise to run without it? Should i replace it or can I find just the half moon?


----------



## EURidahO (Jul 10, 2006)

seth_3515 said:


> was jsut looking around the cam tensioner and found the half moon blew out.. Is it wise to run without it? Should i replace it or can I find just the half moon?


 I just had mine out, and the half moon only filled the inside half of that slot. If you look down you should be able to see the seal sitting a little further in. That or I did mine completely wrong


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

EURidahO said:


> I just had mine out, and the half moon only filled the inside half of that slot. If you look down you should be able to see the seal sitting a little further in. That or I did mine completely wrong


That makes me feel better, but I am still stumped over the camshaft adjustment. Im hoping some other can chime in on testing the N205.


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

```
4 Faults Found:
18058 - Powertrain Data Bus 
            P1650 - 35-00 - Missing Message from Instrument Cluster
17956 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75) 
            P1548 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
17939 - Camshaft Timing Adjustment 
            P1531 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
17695 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249) 
            P1287 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
Readiness: 0100 0000
```
Did you erase codes before scanning?


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Before starting it I scanned. It threw the instrument cluster code ad CTS high intermittent signal. Cleared codes, worked on wiring to the intank and inline fuel pump and turned it over mostly concentrating on fuel system. Checked and this is what I got. I'll clear again and give it another shot and see what it throws if anything. I will say the CTS code didnt come back up yet. It hadn't thrown the boost codes ever or the cam shaft adjustment so it may be a fluke? Definitely not giving up just looking for any suggestions on anything to test for with these codes. 

-Gonzo, should I place resistors on the harness to stop the codes?


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

All of those need to be resistored


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

Yes. 

I can probably disable the VVT solenoid if you wish, though.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Yes.
> 
> I can probably disable the VVT solenoid if you wish, though.


Ok, I'll resistor them. I have the resistors from nstevic(sp?) I'll throw them on there. What's the pros and cons of disabling the VVT?


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

seth_3515 said:


> Ok, I'll resistor them. I have the resistors from nstevic(sp?) I'll throw them on there. What's the pros and cons of disabling the VVT?


 Pros:
You don't have to resistor it?
Cons: 
You can't use VVT to make power/quicker spool?


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

I won't be using the VVT to make anything? So yeah let's delete it and have one less problem to deal with


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

I wouldn't delete vvt. The newer tunes are using vvt to make power. Im sure Gonzo agrees


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Well how much power are we talking? My thoughts are to get it running reliably for my two day a week 150 mile commute to university for my last semester. My plan this summer was to get everything up and running (don't even have a stereo in yet) reroute a/c lines, figure my ccm issues, and do a wire tuck on the bay. My main goal right now is to have a running car. If I can delete the VVT now and get a new solenoid next spring when I upgrade the springs, retainers and intake valves I'd prefer to do it then. But if that's an issue as far as tuning I'll just do it now. Not trying to be rude but that's why I'm asking now for some opinions. I don't want to cut corners or cause headaches layer down the road. Suggestions are welcomed


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Research first. Delete second. The VVT is one thing you don't want to get rid of.

(1) it rarely ever breaks or malfunctions.

(2) eliminating it only gets rid of two barely noticeable wires. Hardly the bain of a bay shaver.

(3) significant gains can be had in spool, and HP/ torque.

Ask the guys at IE, Eurodyne, Unitronic, or Gonzo. Or better yet; read through some of the technical, and product release threads in this forum. I refuse to spoon feed you, but the information you desire is located in the first few pages of this forum.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

I have been researching it. Deleting t want even on my mind until gonzo brought it up. I posted asking about testing it and if any others experienced the code before. Gonzo brought it up about deleting it, therefore I assumed it wasn't necessary or have a hue significance in power. I have heard of it use for power but haven't sifted through the details. That's why I asked about it when he suggested it. I wouldn't e doing the tuning anyways.. If gonzo wasn't going to utilize it, it wouldn't matter either way if it was there or not. Hence asking him pros and cons of deleting it..


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

No pros, all cons to deleting it. It used to be common practice to delete the VVT until recent discoveries have shown significant increases in power UNDER the curve, spool, etc.

Just one man's opinion on a forum; as well as guys on the cutting edge of tuning this platform. 

2¢


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

keep your VVT buddy


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> No pros, all cons to deleting it. It used to be common practice to delete the VVT until recent discoveries have shown significant increases in power UNDER the curve, spool, etc.
> 
> Just one man's opinion on a forum; as well as guys on the cutting edge of tuning this platform.
> 
> 2¢


And I appreciate the input  Just need to know now if gonzo utilizes it or not.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> keep your VVT buddy


Long run yes, but I'm on the fence of short term. Depends on if gonzo utilizes it or not and how easily reversible the delete is. Just waiting for his input on this. I know people either like gonzo or despise him, but I wanted to give him a chance and see what he could do. Letting him have the lead on this and do what he is comfortable with


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

Its up to you really. We can always just add it on later.
Its something that requires tweaking on the dyno, though.

BTW I don't tune for spool, I tune for power :thumbup:


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Ok, if we can easily add it on later I will probably delete it for now. I'm going to go over there today and clear the codes and turn it over to see if it comes back up first. I'd like to build the head and get axles before I tweak and tune on a dyno for every last bit of power


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

Hopefully tuning for these injectors will not require too much tweaking.
As long as the fueling is good, I think that you will find that this file will pull pretty hard


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> BTW I don't tune for spool, I tune for power :thumbup:


 Quoted for irony:sly:


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Hopefully tuning for these injectors will not require too much tweaking.
> As long as the fueling is good, I think that you will find that this file will pull pretty hard


 That's another concern I have at this point. I'm looking at upgrading to the IE or 034 surge tank and 044 setup. I'm starting to doubt the flow of the Walbro. We will see though


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> Quoted for irony:sly:


 Tuning for spool alone may net you less power before the spool.
If you are retarding the timing and running rich to spool faster, your powerband before the spool is going to suck. I tune for power which means that when the turbo spools, the torque kicks in hard and pushes you back in the seat.


seth_3515 said:


> That's another concern I have at this point. I'm looking at upgrading to the IE or 034 surge tank and 044 setup. I'm starting to doubt the flow of the Walbro. We will see though


 Walbro should be OK until we get past 400hp+. When we get there, then you can start worrying about it.

Edit: BTW I had VVT test files before any of the big tuners had it...
There is noticeable gains even with the stock turbo.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Tuning for spool alone may net you less power before the spool.
> If you are retarding the timing and running rich to spool faster, your powerband before the spool is going to suck. I tune for power which means that when the turbo spools, the torque kicks in hard and pushes you back in the seat.
> 
> Walbro should be OK until we get past 400hp+. When we get there, then you can start worrying about it.


 Just seeing other similar setups 400+ shouldn't be a lofty goal. I'm just thinking down the road it will be necessary. Plus my birthday is coming up so of course I'll have to get a little present for myself  itll make it easier for me to justify the purchase lol


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

seth_3515 said:


> Just seeing other similar setups 400+ shouldn't be a lofty goal. I'm just thinking down the road it will be necessary. Plus my birthday is coming up so of course I'll have to get a little present for myself  itll make it easier for me to justify the purchase lol


 Perfectly understandable but let's get your car running first


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Perfectly understandable but let's get your car running first


 Yup, I'll be working on it this evening when I get off work


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> Tuning for spool alone may net you less power before the spool.
> If you are retarding the timing and running rich to spool faster, your powerband before the spool is going to suck.


 I find it hard to process these statements when AFR and timing are not static. You should be able to tune off-boost/on-boost AFR and Timing independently (for example, only fatten the fuel curve at boost onset to promote spool).


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> I find it hard to process these statements when AFR and timing are not static. You should be able to tune off-boost/on-boost AFR and Timing independently (for example, only fatten the fuel curve at boost onset to promote spool).


 Who said I couldn't tune just fuel or timing? My point was that tuning for spool alone will not exactly get you the most power. The point is to make more power all around instead of just focusing on spooling the turbo a few RPM's sooner and lose power in the process.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> Who said I couldn't tune just fuel or timing? My point was that tuning for spool alone will not exactly get you the most power. The point is to make more power all around instead of just focusing on spooling the turbo a few RPM's sooner and lose power in the process.


 No disrespect but I don't think you read or understood what I was saying. Looking at the fuel curve and timing curve independently, you could tune off-boost and on-boost behavior separately. 

To make it easy let's take AFR first, you could easily run fat (rich spool) right before and at boost onset to help spool up. After that, the rest of the curve could be leaned out for best power depending on the octane and knock threshold. 

Same thing in regards to timing, off-boost response can be easily tweaked sperately from on-boost to get the best in both area (especially when using load specific softwares like the ones you use).


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

You don't think I already do this?


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> Tuning for spool alone may net you less power before the spool.
> If you are retarding the timing and running rich to spool faster, your powerband before the spool is going to suck. I tune for power which means that when the turbo spools, the torque kicks in hard and pushes you back in the seat.
> 
> Walbro should be OK until we get past 400hp+. When we get there, then you can start worrying about it.
> ...


 The irony I was referring to was you tuning for 20+ psi of spool, in neutral on a k03s. Were you "tuning for power" then? 

Unitronic and Apr both tuned vvt for performance long ago; Eurodyne was late to the party on that one, but introduced launch control, and no lift shift 3+ years ago BTW; just thought id mention it, since you like to lay claim to being an innovator there too. 

Not hating, but damn man; don't make such an ass of yourself on the forums man. Guys here remember things buddy.

Keep on keeping on:thumbup:


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> The irony I was referring to was you tuning for 20+ psi of spool, in neutral on a k03s. Were you "tuning for power" then?
> 
> Unitronic and Apr both tuned vvt for performance long ago; Eurodyne was late to the party on that one, but introduced launch control, and no lift shift 3+ years ago BTW; just thought id mention it, since you like to lay claim to being an innovator there too.
> 
> ...


 :beer: this


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

The real irony is te actual time it would take to do all this dyno tweaking and money that would have to be spent for time on the dyno.. Plus it's remote tuning, he won't be there to tweak the file between each dyno run; hence more money, time, and driving to the dyno. You all are making a problem out of nothing. This isn't a dedicated track car that will follow a racing circuit. So I won't spend the time and gobs of money plus the hour commute to the dyno on a regular basis to squeeze out a little bit of hp. The car will be street tuned then dyno'd for ****s and giggles. If someone wants to pay for dyno time to actually justify their point for an Internet argument, I'll pm you my PayPal :wave: this is only the first stage.. After the car is in good running condition, I'll be doing an AWD swap next summer. That includes stroking to a 2.1l which I already have a crank rods and bearings for. Then the built head and an HTA35r, then roll cage then it'll be a dedicated track car. That I will want to get every bit of power out. That's thousands of dollars and lots of downtime only of everything goes perfectly to plan, which it never does.. Take the Internet penis war somewhere else. This thread is to show results only..


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> You don't think I already do this?


 Well, it's a bit hard for me to guess when your keyboard is saying the opposite ("_If you are retarding the timing and running rich to spool faster, your powerband before the spool is going to suck. _) ... and it's the only reason why we are having this discussion about spool and on-boost/off-boost power. 

Turn of events: 

You made a statement that tuning for one area hurt the other - I enter the conversation to say that it's hard for me to reconcile the logic when you can tune each area independently - you back up and reinforce your original statement - I explained how it is easily done when you have a load specific adjusting software - you ask if I didn't think you did that already - me getting more confused about what you mean then when I first entered the discussion. 

So which one is it?


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Cleared codes and camshaft code keeps popping up.


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

seth_3515 said:


> Cleared codes and camshaft code keeps popping up.


 More irony..


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> More irony..


 I cleared it it popped up again, so I'm looking for a new one.. Whys That ironic? 

-new one on the way..


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

seth_3515 said:


> I cleared it it popped up again, so I'm looking for a new one.. Whys That ironic?
> 
> -new one on the way..


 Just being a wiseass buddy its ironic because of the discussion about vvt tunes, and the fact that it shouldn't be coded out IMO.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

I didn't code it out. I just cleared the code with VCDS to see if it would throw it again after checking the wires and connection. It did, so I ordered a new one from ECS.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Anyone ever deal with this instrument cluster code? Not Sure what it could be I'm looking it up on rosstech now to try and find some possible issues


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

Could be a mismatch between cluster and ECU SW... 

I had that code on my TDI when I did an ECU and harness swap from a newer car. 
My cluster didn't connect to CAN I believe. I just swapped the cluster and was done with it but I would ignore it for now. We can get rid of the code later.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Could be a mismatch between cluster and ECU SW...
> 
> I had that code on my TDI when I did an ECU and harness swap from a newer car.
> My cluster didn't connect to CAN I believe. I just swapped the cluster and was done with it but I would ignore it for now. We can get rid of the code later.


 It's cool, with the other 3 codes "figured out" I was starting to look this up. I'm honestly not too worried about it, but can't do anything else to the car tonight so I was curious as to why it was


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

VCDS Version: Release 11.11.3 (x64) 
Data version: 20120401 

Wednesday,13,June,2012,07:38:26:12722 

Chassis Type: 8N - Audi TT 
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 17 22 35 37 45 55 56 76 77 

Mileage: 143640km/89253miles 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AWP.lbl 
Part No: 06A 906 032 LP 
Component: 870cc BT/GONZO G v1.1 
Coding: 07500 
Shop #: WSC 33278 
VCID: 77F3E88855D6651 
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXX 

9 Faults Found: 
18058 - Powertrain Data Bus 
P1650 - 35-00 - Missing Message from Instrument Cluster 
17956 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75) 
P1548 - 35-00 - Open Circuit 
17939 - Camshaft Timing Adjustment 
P1531 - 35-00 - Open Circuit 
17695 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249) 
P1287 - 35-00 - Open Circuit 
17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer 
P1570 - 35-00 - 
17633 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1 (N30) 
P1225 - 35-00 - Short to Ground 
17635 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 3 (N32) 
P1227 - 35-00 - Short to Ground 
17636 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 4 (N33) 
P1228 - 35-00 - Short to Ground 
17634 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 2 (N31) 
P1226 - 35-00 - Short to Ground 
Readiness: 0100 0000 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8N0-907-379-MK20-E.lbl 
Part No: 8N0 907 379 D 
Component: ESP 20 CAN V006 
Coding: 23049 
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: 3D7F3AA0376A8F1 

2 Faults Found: 
00283 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Front Left (G47) 
35-00 - - 
01423 - Lateral Acceleration Sensor (G200) 
57-00 - Electric Circuit Failure 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8N0-820-043.lbl 
Part No: 8N0 820 043 A 
Component: TT-KLIMAVOLLAUTOMAT D03 
Coding: 00140 
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: 2851FBF4C8E83A9 

1 Fault Found: 
00779 - Outside Air Temp Sensor (G17) 
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 8N8-909-601.lbl 
Part No: 8N8 909 601 
Component: Airbag Front+Seite 1008 
Coding: 10102 
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: F7F36888D5D6E51 

5 Faults Found: 
65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error 
00-00 - - 
65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error 
00-10 - - - Intermittent 
01578 - Airbag Deactivation Warning Lamp; Passenger Side (K145) 
31-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent 
01217 - Side Airbag Igniter; Driver Side (N199) 
32-10 - Resistance too High - Intermittent 
01218 - Side Airbag Igniter; Passenger Side (N200) 
32-10 - Resistance too High - Intermittent 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8Nx-920-xxx-17.lbl 
Part No: 8N1 920 930 E 
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. M73 D10 
Coding: 06244 
Shop #: WSC 25406 
VCID: 336B1C98012E491 

No fault code found. 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 35: Centr. Locks Labels: 8Nx-962-267.lbl 
Part No: 8N8 962 267 A 
Component: Central Lock/Alarm D04 
Coding: 15884 
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: 3F8340A83D669D1 

No fault code found. 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 45: Inter. Monitor Labels: 8E0-951-177.lbl 
Part No: 8N8 951 177 
Component: Innenraumueberw. D09 
Coding: 00001 
Shop #: WSC 00000 
VCID: FCF977A4ECF0C69 

No fault code found. 

End --------------------------------------------------------------------- 

-this mornings codes.. It would fire but it would not idle. I cranked a few more times and it wouldnt fire, so i ran the scan and this is what I came up with..


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

:laugh:


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Ok so I'm a little confused, hoping someone can help me out. If the engine would start but cut out immediately it could be the immobilizer, I get that. But would the immobilizer cause all 4 injector short to ground? I'm looking up the diagram to trace the injector ground to make sure I have a good connection. Hoping for someone to shed a little light


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

seth_3515 said:


> Ok so I'm a little confused, hoping someone can help me out. If the engine would start but cut out immediately it could be the immobilizer, I get that. But would the immobilizer cause all 4 injector short to ground? I'm looking up the diagram to trace the injector ground to make sure I have a good connection. Hoping for someone to shed a little light


 Its possible that you cracked your coilpack harness, or did something similar causing a short circuit.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

The coil pack harness would cause an injector short to ground, glad you told me bacuase i wouldnt have guessed. I will definitely check out the coil pack then as well.


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

First start is always going to run rough... Once it warms up, the fuel trims should adapt and it should run properly after that.

I would check out the short to ground codes, definitely weird.

The ECU you sent me seemed IMMO defeated when I checked it out on the bench.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

It would fire but I couldn't get it to idle at all. I tried pressing the gas when starting, it would rev up once and shut off immediately.


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

Mine did this until i adapted the throttle body:thumbup:


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

Seems like youve got an immobilizer, and a cluster issue, i would work those 2 issues out first.


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

And if ur cams are off, or ur sensor is bad, it wont send fuel correctly anyway. So there are a bunch of things you need to work out. When i bought an ecu from someone used i had stupid codes like this it was out of a wrecked car, and i thought you only had 3 codes???


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

The short to ground code comes up when you have ur injectors unplugged when u turn key. So unplug the injectors, plug them back in and cycle key, then clear codes and see if they return.:wave:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Mind fault- I will do a throttle body adapt again to see if that helps. It is a used Ecu and I did only have the three codes yesterday. So I'm not sure why the immo came up today.. Quite queer but I'll definitely try your injector advice and see if it works! 

- difference between yesterdays codes and today's. I checked my fuel system to make sure fuel was getting to the injectors, tightened ups manifold and couplers in hopes that I may seal a leak (trying to make sure I had fuel and air) the car would fire but only very briefly and would not idle. It was like it stumbled and shut off. The next time I tried giving it gas to overcome any rough idle and help it run. It revved up then shut off immediately.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Also, I double checked the cam timing when I got the head back from the builder. Looked to be in proper alignment. I even gave him the bentley manual for assembly so there was no guess work. I have a new cam position sensor coming too so that'll eliminate another possibility. I'm headed there now to try out mindfaults and Neil diamonds suggestions as well.. Fingers crossed!


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Did the injector suggestion and throttle body adaptation.. Still throwing the immobilizer code but not throwing the injector short to ground codes anymore.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

VCDS Version: Release 11.11.3 (x64) 
Data version: 20120401 

Wednesday,13,June,2012,16:42:42:12722 

Chassis Type: 8N - Audi TT 
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 17 22 35 37 45 55 56 76 77 

Mileage: 143640km/89253miles 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AWP.lbl 
Part No: 06A 906 032 LP 
Component: 870cc BT/GONZO G v1.1 
Coding: 07500 
Shop #: WSC 33278 
VCID: 77F3E88855D6651 
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXX 

5 Faults Found: 
18058 - Powertrain Data Bus 
P1650 - 35-00 - Missing Message from Instrument Cluster 
17956 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75) 
P1548 - 35-00 - Open Circuit 
17939 - Camshaft Timing Adjustment 
P1531 - 35-00 - Open Circuit 
17695 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249) 
P1287 - 35-00 - Open Circuit 
17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer 
P1570 - 35-00 - 
Readiness: 0100 0000 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8N0-907-379-MK20-E.lbl 
Part No: 8N0 907 379 D 
Component: ESP 20 CAN V006 
Coding: 23049 
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: 3D7F3AA0376A8F1 

2 Faults Found: 
00283 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Front Left (G47) 
35-00 - - 
01423 - Lateral Acceleration Sensor (G200) 
57-00 - Electric Circuit Failure 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8N0-820-043.lbl 
Part No: 8N0 820 043 A 
Component: TT-KLIMAVOLLAUTOMAT D03 
Coding: 00140 
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: 2851FBF4C8E83A9 

1 Fault Found: 
00779 - Outside Air Temp Sensor (G17) 
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 8N8-909-601.lbl 
Part No: 8N8 909 601 
Component: Airbag Front+Seite 1008 
Coding: 10102 
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: F7F36888D5D6E51 

5 Faults Found: 
65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error 
00-00 - - 
65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error 
00-10 - - - Intermittent 
01578 - Airbag Deactivation Warning Lamp; Passenger Side (K145) 
31-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent 
01217 - Side Airbag Igniter; Driver Side (N199) 
32-10 - Resistance too High - Intermittent 
01218 - Side Airbag Igniter; Passenger Side (N200) 
32-10 - Resistance too High - Intermittent 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8Nx-920-xxx-17.lbl 
Part No: 8N1 920 930 E 
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. M73 D10 
Coding: 06244 
Shop #: WSC 25406 
VCID: 336B1C98012E491 

No Faults Found 
or DTCs not supported by controller 
or a communication error occurred 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 35: Centr. Locks Labels: 8Nx-962-267.lbl 
Part No: 8N8 962 267 A 
Component: Central Lock/Alarm D04 
Coding: 15884 
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: 3F8340A83D669D1 

No fault code found. 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 45: Inter. Monitor Labels: 8E0-951-177.lbl 
Part No: 8N8 951 177 
Component: Innenraumueberw. D09 
Coding: 00001 
Shop #: WSC 00000 
VCID: FCF977A4ECF0C69 

No fault code found. 

End --------------------------------------------------------------------- 

It fires right up but shuts itself off..


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

You just need an IMMO defeat. When I got the ECU, it looked like it was defeated, but I guess its not. 

Just send it in and Ill take care of it.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

ok will do!


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Ecu was shipped off during lunch to be immo defeated. Cant wait to hear this. It sounded marvelous when it fired. Cant wait to hear it idle finally


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

What's the lead time on the return of your ecu? It'd be nice to see a quick turnaround


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

not sure. I sent it USPS Priority so itll probably be there monday, but we shall see.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Waiting game sucks bro. Hang in there man:beer:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Meh, Its been 4 years since it ran, 2 years since I began the rebuild, 1 more week wont kill me.. I hope  

- silver lining- This will give me time to pressure test the intake system and lower the ground on the ground and torque the suspension in prep for the first drive!


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

DAMN! Its been almost 2 years since I've had something to toy with, and drive. Im losing my mind right now:screwy:

4 years = gun in mouth! :laugh:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Well, the first two years I had a Cobalt to get me back and forth to class at university. Then a flash flood washed it away.. Insurance money was put into the car and I have been carless for about 2 years now. I am dying to finally have a car to drive again. At this point, its not about peak hp but to have the freedom of some wheels again :beer:


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

I hear ya. Im just getting my license back after a 1 1/2 yr dui suspension. Sucks:thumbdown:


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

Priority Mail will prob = 3 days at least... Express Mail is 'guaranteed' 1 day and a lot of times gets there in 2...


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Yeah, I'm guessing it'll be there Monday hopefully


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

ecu arrived yesterday, thankfully I got delivery confirmation so I woouldnt stress about it.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

lowered the car to tighten up the suspension. I really like the rear tire fitment. Just need to get some longer lugs for the front spacers..


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

seth_3515 said:


> ecu arrived yesterday, thankfully I got delivery confirmation so I woouldnt stress about it.


 I try not to work on Saturdays 

Will get to it tomorrow.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> I try not to work on Saturdays
> 
> Will get to it tomorrow.


 No worries I didn't think you did. I just wanted it there so it wasn't waiting to be delivered and not get to you until late in the day ad push it back another day.


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

I checked it out again and it did say IMMO 'OFF' but I flashed a different dump for the IMMO anyways. Should be good to go now. Comes out today :thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Awesome! Thank you!


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Received an empty package today.. waiting to hear from gonzo about shipping insurance. :banghead::banghead::banghead: I am so ****ing livid at this point.


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## 4ceFed4 (Apr 3, 2002)

seth_3515 said:


> Received an empty package today.. waiting to hear from gonzo about shipping insurance. :banghead::banghead::banghead: I am so ****ing livid at this point.


 Empty like it was sent out that way,or like someone jacked the contents en route?? Sucks :banghead:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Jacked en route or straight up lost. It was ripped and beat up when I got j 
It.


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## zrau17 (Apr 21, 2010)

seth_3515 said:


> Jacked en route or straight up lost. It was ripped and beat up when I got j
> It.


 Came into this thread to ask if car has moved, find out ECU was yanked out of the box. Now I'm sad. 

Who did it get shipped with, please tell me UPS so I can rage about how they suck moosecock.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

USPS. I went to the post office and asked them to check the truck. Of course it wasn't in there.. Probably lying in the back of a semi trailer somewhere..


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Well my Kicker ZXM700.5 was delivered in perfect condition.. I'd rather that have been ****ed up than the Ecu  

-Went to my local post office to see if they had found anything on the truck, but they didnt.. 
-Called OKC processing facility and they dont have anything, but they couldnt find anything right away. She said they will check again on Monday and forward the description and lost item to the philadelphia facility in hopes of finding it..


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Great news, well kinda.. OKC processing facility takes pictures of each package that comes in and my package was wide open. She is contacting the Philadelphia facility and forwarding my information so hopefully it can be recovered..


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## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

seth_3515 said:


> Great news, well kinda.. OKC processing facility takes pictures of each package that comes in and my package was wide open. She is contacting the Philadelphia facility and forwarding my information so hopefully it can be recovered..


 ****ty hope they can do something


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Hope Gonzo insured it!


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Me too. I called and left a message but haven't heard anything yet.


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Damn, I haven't checked this thread in awhile, car is looking damn sexy... Wish you the best of luck with your ECU dilemma


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## Dub Ken (Dec 24, 2004)

Worst case you have to buy a new ECU which you can usually find for around a hundred bucks or less. The software is easy to replace.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

wow, i used to work for a freight company. thats ****ed up they sent u an empty beat up box. there no point in even wasting your driver or customer's time with that kinda stuff:facepalm: The post office up there lost my ecu for a few days when Arnold sent it back to me from PAG. Yankee post offices suck! :screwy:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

I just got off the phone with company affairs. The philadelphia processing facility ships all loose item to an Atlanta. She said she can send an inquiry to them but it typically takes up to 90 days to hear anything!! WTF.. 

-Tom- it sucks because someone saw it was open and empty them shut it and sealed it back up.. It just seriously pisses me off that people don't give a ****


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Gonzo already offered a replacement Ecu and flash. I'm just annoyed at the ****ty customer service of USPS. If I had left it up to the 1-800 chick I still wouldn't have any answers.. Had to spend a few hours tracking down te right people to talk to get anything done. One lady was very helpful and she is the one that called me this morning to follow up. I got her name and will be giving that facility an email about how helpful and thorough she was.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Updates?


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Waiting on the replacement..


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Big_Tom said:


> Yankee post offices suck! :screwy:


Florida = Southern Yankee








seth_3515 said:


> Waiting on the replacement..


Damn still? Sucks duder:thumbdown:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> Florida = Southern Yankee
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yup, I'm trying to be patient. I'm just doubtful with the 4th coming up, if its not in the mail it'll be the end of the week before I see it..


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

Shipped new ECU. Insured it for $800. If this one gets lost again, let me know so we can both cash in on it :laugh:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> Shipped new ECU. Insured it for $800. If this one gets lost again, let me know so we can both cash in on it :laugh:


:beer:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Shipped new ECU. Insured it for $800. If this one gets lost again, let me know so we can both cash in on it :laugh:


Umm... I kinda hope it gets lost if thats the case


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

I paid for one day delivery and they promised 4th of July delivery on the website and now it says it will be delivered on the 5th


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Haven't receive it yet.. They have a half hour before its past the guaranteed arrival. I'll keep you informed so you can get a refund on the shipping. I ****ing hate USPS


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Ok, the package is missing. It left okc sort facility at 8am and the Enid office has no idea where it's at. We have to wait 7 days to file a claim. Gonzo, you can go ahead and file for a refund on the shipping cost. I want to know what is next and soon. I'm not trying to be a dik but I have been waiting to get this Ecu situation taken care of for a month and I'm bout ready to get a refund and give Arnold a call this is getting ridiculous


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

seth_3515 said:


> Ok, the package is missing. It left okc sort facility at 8am and the Enid office has no idea where it's at. We have to wait 7 days to file a claim. Gonzo, you can go ahead and file for a refund on the shipping cost. I want to know what is next and soon. I'm not trying to be a dik but I have been waiting to get this Ecu situation taken care of for a month and I'm bout ready to get a refund and give Arnold a call this is getting ridiculous


 

Read my PM and give me a call. This is way beyond ridiculous now.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Well, I have decided to make the best of this set back. I purchased an 034 ignition coil harness. This will replace the the harness with new wires. I wanted to upgrade these before going with the 2.0t coils and adapters which I'll be picking up in a few weeks. I also built a box/cover for the rear seat delete to cover the battery, relays, and ampilifier. Just got to pick out some
fabric/carpet


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Keep the faith duder:thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

I am asking everyone on vortex to partake in a candle light vigil to ask the VAG gods for good luck to come. It will be for 3 minutes tomorrow at 8pm central standard time. Just one lit candle and 3 minutes of good vibes while I kill an innocent child in hopes of appeasement to the gods.. This damn car will run I say!


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## 4ceFed4 (Apr 3, 2002)

seth_3515 said:


> I am asking everyone on vortex to partake in a candle light vigil to ask the VAG gods for good luck to come. It will be for 3 minutes tomorrow at 8pm central standard time. Just one lit candle and 3 minutes of good vibes while I kill an innocent child in hopes of appeasement to the gods.. This damn car will run I say!


:thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

The Ecu showed up at my door yesterday! I guess it got lost on the truck an they found it.. Really annoying but o well. I went to try to start it and it cranked over for a bit then the battery started to die  I threw on a new cts and put the battery on te charger overnight in hopes that's all it was. It started up last time so hopefully it just needs a good charge. Besides that, all my gauges and apexi were on and working which was a relief.. Unfortunately, I work 4am-noon today but that'll give me the afternoon to work on my car. I was even given a pass from the fiancé for the wedding cake taste testing! Although, i would like to start it up, change the oil, and take it for a spin to the tasting (can't miss out on free cake  ) I'll be back on here with some good news or questions on diagnosing any issues.. We shall see.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

:beer:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

No luck.. I replaced the cts, double checked plug gaps, tightened up intake parts incase of a leak and still can't get it to fire. I'm thinking cps sensor since it is the original but wanted some other opinions. It's only throwing the boost regulator, n75, and missing signal from instrument cluster..

Just ohmd the cps - 948 between 2 and 3, no continuity between 1 and 2, no continuity between 1 and 3 - so its to Bentley specs.. I also checked continuity between my splice for the rpm signal for the ebc and get continuity so that is ok.

-also took loosened the fitting to the fuel rail while pump was on to make sure it was getting fuel and it sprayed. Plug gaps are .026 or so across them all.

-I have the hitachi e revision coils. What's the best way to test for spak on these? They were new but have sat for a few years.. I'm trying to eliminate every variable


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

Does it register any RPM? Like via VCDS or on the cluster?
No spark?


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

While cranking, the tach moved. I'm wondering about the spark though from the coil packs.. It's not throwing a code though so I'm a little apprehensive. What's the best way to test for spark on these injectors? I looked through the Bentley to see if I could ohm them out like te crank position sensor but i didn't see it.


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

If the tach moved, you are good. Take one coil off and put a screwdriver inside it and put it close against a ground and crank it. If you get a spark, you are good to go.

I would personally try some starting fluid first, though. When we rebuild motors here at the shop, sometimes the first start is really tough to get it going.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Ok, I'll give test the coil packs and I should have some ether around and give that a shot If all is well.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Ok i tried the ether. It would fire but not remain stable ok it's own, it stumbled then would go back to not firing. I took a ground tester ( with a light) and checked each injector connector. It stayed lit while cranking with every injector harness. Any new ideas? I didn't check the spark but figured it was when it fired with the ether


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

You might have to keep spraying it for a little bit for the first start. Once it warms up, it should run better.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Only had a little ether. Got some octane booster, can of premium gas and a new bottle of ether. It was firing better so hopefully it'll ignite easier with a little more octane


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

seth_3515 said:


> Only had a little ether. Got some octane booster, can of premium gas and a new bottle of ether. It was firing better so hopefully it'll ignite easier with a little more octane


Higher octane fuel Burns less easily, than low octane fuel. Thats why we use it to protect against "pre-ignition" or "detonation"


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> Higher octane fuel Burns less easily, than low octane fuel. Thats why we use it to protect against "pre-ignition" or "detonation"


I'm grasping and was trying anything.. I was a little ass-backwards :facepalm:


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

It'll fire with the ether idle for a second or two and fall on its face.. The battery is starting to get ran down so I gotta let it charge..


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Ok, I'm calling it a day. Battery is dead but on the charger now. If you are reading this and have any idea that you think might help, please post them. I'm going to try to come up with a list for tomorrow to start checking things off. It would idle for a few seconds with ether then stumble and die. Hope to get some other perspectives because I feel like I'm missing something right under my nose


----------



## tedgram (Jul 2, 2005)

Sounds like your not getting enough fuel. What's fuel pressure? Do you have fuel lines reversed?


----------



## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

I'm a little confused as to why you needed to remove the fuel line to check for fuel when you have a pressure regulator mounted on the rail? What is the fuel pressure? Just because you have rail pressure doesn't mean your injectors are firing. Easiest way to check that is with a noid light or a voltmeter. 

Also are you running stock cams? On aftermarket cams you can reverse the reference wheel on the intake cam. I'm talking about the wheel that bolts onto the intake cam that the cam position sensor reads. If this is reversed you will get...fuel and spark but the car will not run. It also will not throw any codes. To check this you just remove the two 6mmx1.25 bolts that hold the cam position sensor on.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Twopnt016v said:


> I'm a little confused as to why you needed to remove the fuel line to check for fuel when you have a pressure regulator mounted on the rail? What is the fuel pressure? Just because you have rail pressure doesn't mean your injectors are firing. Easiest way to check that is with a noid light or a voltmeter.
> 
> Also are you running stock cams? On aftermarket cams you can reverse the reference wheel on the intake cam. I'm talking about the wheel that bolts onto the intake cam that the cam position sensor reads. If this is reversed you will get...fuel and spark but the car will not run. It also will not throw any codes. To check this you just remove the two 6mmx1.25 bolts that hold the cam position sensor on.


Stock cams, gauge wasn't reading any pressure but there is definitely pressure at the rail. Already checked the injectors with a light while cranking it over.. Any others?


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

It was an old ground test light. It lot up but wouldn't "blink" I didn't think the old filament style would register the voltage change like described in the Bentley with an LED one


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Tested the coil packs with a groud light and it would ever light. I'm thinking the coil packs are bad. The ether would fire just from compression alone..

-dad tested it the "old fashioned way" stuck a metal rod in there and grabbed it.. didnt shock him so no fire! I was glad to finally figure out the problem. The coil packs were bought a few years ago so its whatever. I already ordered new 2.0t coils and adapters from IE, my coil harness replacement from 034 should ship this week as well. thanks for the help and suggestions to those on here and those who pmd me, I really appreciate it.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

But this just begs the question I why it would fire briefly with te other Ecu.. If you know how and which wires to test the coil pack harness to make sure it's getting a signal post it up. I'm looking through the Bentley now


----------



## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

Have you looked at your crank position sensor? Those things can fail just from looking at them:laugh:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Twopnt016v said:


> Have you looked at your crank position sensor? Those things can fail just from looking at them:laugh:


Yes I ohmd it out and it's within the Bentley specs an tach is working. I will be picking up an extra though next paycheck


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

seth_3515 said:


> Tested the coil packs with a groud light and it would ever light. I'm thinking the coil packs are bad. The ether would fire just from compression alone..
> 
> -dad tested it the "old fashioned way" stuck a metal rod in there and grabbed it.. didnt shock him so no fire! I was glad to finally figure out the problem. The coil packs were bought a few years ago so its whatever. I already ordered new 2.0t coils and adapters from IE, my coil harness replacement from 034 should ship this week as well. thanks for the help and suggestions to those on here and those who pmd me, I really appreciate it.


 Don't grab them! You just put them close against the head, block, or whatever that is grounded and if you get spark, you are good to go.

Car wanted to run with ether, though, right? If so, you had SOME type of spark.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Don't grab them! You just put them close against the head, block, or whatever that is grounded and if you get spark, you are good to go.
> 
> Car wanted to run with ether, though, right? If so, you had SOME type of spark.


Sort of wanted too. With copious amounts it would fire but ether has such a low flash point it can ignite just from the compression. I used a ground test light. It was ground and stuck up the coil pack.. No light. Then used a metal rod and couldn't get it to go. Then grabbed the metal rod to see if it would shock to make sure there was no spark at all.


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

seth_3515 said:


> Sort of wanted too. With copious amounts it would fire but ether has such a low flash point it can ignite just from the compression. I used a ground test light. It was ground and stuck up the coil pack.. No light. Then used a metal rod and couldn't get it to go. Then grabbed the metal rod to see if it would shock to make sure there was no spark at all.


 What about the injectors?


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Tested the injectors with the ground light again and it lit up. Plus spark plugs had fuel on them as well. I bought new ones an checked the old ones to make sure.


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

seth_3515 said:


> Tested the injectors with the ground light again and it lit up. Plus spark plugs had fuel on them as well. I bought new ones an checked the old ones to make sure.


 OK that's good.

Let's see what happens next.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> OK that's good.
> 
> Let's see what happens next.


I'm positive the coil packs were the culprit. I know 100% fuel was getting to it, I tightened and tried to make sure there weren't any big intake leaks, so I know it was getting air. I'm going to lowes tomorrow to make an adapter to pressure test the intake system. Only grabbed it after other signs that they weren't giving any spark. Wanted to be 100% sure. My other thoughts was it could be the wiring harness but I have the new replacement coming from 034 anyways. So as soon as I get te coil packs (I'm assuming they will arrive before the harness) I will throw them on and give em a try. Plus I can go ahead and increase the plug gap to get a bigger spark.


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Might have effed up the ground on the coil harness, or maybe the crank or cam position sensor(s) are effed.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> Might have effed up the ground on the coil harness, or maybe the crank or cam position sensor(s) are effed.


I ohmd the crank ps ad it's good. I have a new camshaft ps. I'll go ahead an throw it on. The ground on te vale cover was good with a test light. Is there another I'm missing?


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

I checked both grounds to the coil pack harness and they are good. I took the coil packs off and tried to turn it over and check the harness. There is a constant power #1 to the coil packs and I'm guessing a switched wire #3 that run to the Ecu. I checked the connector to the Ecu and got continuity between the switched wires. But when I turn it over it won't light the test light.


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Meh.. it's either the cps or the tune I think. I've been wrong before tho..


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

But the tach jumps up when cranked over. Would it prevent spark?


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

Post your exact codes here.


----------



## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

seth_3515 said:


> But the tach jumps up when cranked over. Would it prevent spark?


Post codes.. but yes failing crank position sensor would prevent spark.


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Twopnt016v said:


> Have you looked at your crank position sensor? Those things can fail just from looking at them:laugh:


I had an issue where my crank position sensor wasn't quite in all the way. I had to remove it and then tap it In with a hammer. Maybe give that a try before buying a new one.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Sunday,08,July,2012,20:15:58:12722
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.3 (x64)

Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AWP.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 032 LP
Component and/or Version: 870cc BT/GONZO G v1.1
Software Coding: 07500
Work Shop Code: WSC 06485 
Additional Info: 
VCID: 77F3E88855D6651
4 Faults Found:

18058 - Powertrain Data Bus 
P1650 - 35-00 - Missing Message from Instrument Cluster
17956 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75) 
P1548 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
17939 - Camshaft Timing Adjustment 
P1531 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
17695 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249) 
P1287 - 35-00 - Open Circuit

Readiness: 0100 0000


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

VCDS Version: Release 11.11.3 (x64)
Data version: 20120401

Sunday,08,July,2012,20:20:28:12722

Chassis Type: 8N - Audi TT
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 17 22 35 37 45 55 56 76 77

Mileage: 143640km/89253miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AWP.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 LP
Component: 870cc BT/GONZO G v1.1 
Coding: 07500
Shop #: WSC 06485 
VCID: 77F3E88855D6651


4 Faults Found:
18058 - Powertrain Data Bus 
P1650 - 35-00 - Missing Message from Instrument Cluster
17956 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75) 
P1548 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
17939 - Camshaft Timing Adjustment 
P1531 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
17695 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249) 
P1287 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
Readiness: 0100 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8N0-907-379-MK20-E.lbl
Part No: 8N0 907 379 D
Component: ESP 20 CAN V006 
Coding: 23049
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: 3D7F3AA0376A8F1

2 Faults Found:
00283 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Front Left (G47) 
35-00 - - 
01423 - Lateral Acceleration Sensor (G200) 
57-00 - Electric Circuit Failure

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8N0-820-043.lbl
Part No: 8N0 820 043 A
Component: TT-KLIMAVOLLAUTOMAT D03 
Coding: 00140
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: 2851FBF4C8E83A9

1 Fault Found:
00779 - Outside Air Temp Sensor (G17) 
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 8N8-909-601.lbl
Part No: 8N8 909 601 
Component: Airbag Front+Seite 1008 
Coding: 10102
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: F7F36888D5D6E51

6 Faults Found:
65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error 
00-00 - - 
65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error 
00-10 - - - Intermittent
01578 - Airbag Deactivation Warning Lamp; Passenger Side (K145) 
31-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
01217 - Side Airbag Igniter; Driver Side (N199) 
32-10 - Resistance too High - Intermittent
01218 - Side Airbag Igniter; Passenger Side (N200) 
32-10 - Resistance too High - Intermittent
00532 - Supply Voltage B+ 
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8Nx-920-xxx-17.lbl
Part No: 8N1 920 930 E
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. M73 D10 
Coding: 06244
Shop #: WSC 25406 
VCID: 336B1C98012E491

1 Fault Found:
00771 - Fuel Level Sensor (G) 
 30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 35: Centr. Locks Labels: 8Nx-962-267.lbl
Part No: 8N8 962 267 A
Component: Central Lock/Alarm D04 
Coding: 15884
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: 3F8340A83D669D1

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 45: Inter. Monitor Labels: 8E0-951-177.lbl
Part No: 8N8 951 177 
Component: Innenraumueberw. D09 
Coding: 00001
Shop #: WSC 00000 
VCID: FCF977A4ECF0C69

No fault code found.

End ---------------------------------------------------------------------


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

I'm doubting Im get fuel as well. I regrounded the grounds and all are good. I'm getting constant power to injectors and coil packs but can't tell about pulse. Test light wasn't picking anything up and new spark plugs aren't wet and dont smell like fuel. I'm hanging it up for today. These were the codes after I cleared and cranke over after removing injector connectors (was getting those codes because I disconnected to test)


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Definitely have pressure at the fuel rail though
- also per the audi FAQ- 2001 Audi TT ATC engine is non-VVT


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

You need to put a light diode on the injector plug or take an injector out (or the whole rail actually) and crank it and see if it squirts fuel. If you get fuel, check spark (again) next.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> You need to put a light diode on the injector plug or take an injector out (or the whole rail actually) and crank it and see if it squirts fuel. If you get fuel, check spark (again) next.


I will Take the rail and injectors off and crank it over (tomorrow morning, I don't have to work do I'll be at it all day)


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

seth_3515 said:


> I will Take the rail and injectors off and crank it over (tomorrow morning, I don't have to work do I'll be at it all day)


For what it's worth, I started to take the rail off and one injector stuck in the manifold and fuel sprayed out so if they aren't spraying it's from the lack of a signal.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

injectors are NOT firing.. both coil packs and injectors have their constant power, but not getting the signal. I tested and got continuity for the signal wires from the connector and right up to the ecu.


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

Does the RPM's register anything on Block 3 (I think that's one of the blocks that have RPMs)?


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

yup, 200/min when cranked over


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Sent a request for a refund from Gonzo. I can't stand this shipping back and forth. I'll be using the refund to go with eurodyne maestro so I can control the tune. If I **** it up I have noone to blame but myself and would rather it be that way.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

seth_3515 said:


> Sent a request for a refund from Gonzo. I can't stand this shipping back and forth. I'll be using the refund to go with eurodyne maestro so I can control the tune. If I **** it up I have noone to blame but myself and would rather it be that way.



Nothing personal against gonzo but I was waiting for that to happen... I had the same issue with Uni and went Maestro. You'll put a lot of time into learning but it's rewarding to do it yourself and in the end the car will run better- I know mine does.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

DougLoBue said:


> Nothing personal against gonzo but I was waiting for that to happen... I had the same issue with Uni and went Maestro. You'll put a lot of time into learning but it's rewarding to do it yourself and in the end the car will run better- I know mine does.


I'm reading through the maestro FAQ now to try and get as much knowledge beforehand to shorten the learning curve


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

seth_3515 said:


> Sent a request for a refund from Gonzo. I can't stand this shipping back and forth. I'll be using the refund to go with eurodyne maestro so I can control the tune.


For some reason i find this funny :laugh:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Ecu was delivered to gonzo on Thursday at noon or so. Sent a few messages how and when I'll receive refund either money order or PayPal and haven't heard anything..


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

seth_3515 said:


> Ecu was delivered to gonzo on Thursday at noon or so. Sent a few messages how and when I'll receive refund either money order or PayPal and haven't heard anything..


:facepalm:opcorn:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> :facepalm:opcorn:


got a pm, said it will be later today via paypal.. we shall see


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

seth_3515 said:


> got a pm, said it will be later today via paypal.. we shall see


:beer: Eurodyne, FTW


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Haven't received anything yet..


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

seth_3515 said:


> Haven't received anything yet..


:facepalm: Where's the speedy service now


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

Full refund sent.

Good luck with your build.


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## s1eepydub (Jan 24, 2012)

having the same issue with my ecu that I sent Gonzo. Car refuses to turn over and idle, just cranks. I've pm'd him about it and haven't heard anything yet. I find it funny that before I sent him the ecu the car started and idled fine. I didn't let it run very long as none of the cooling system was connected, however it did function properly. Now I get the ecu back, had the cooling system hooked up and it won't run... Odd isn't it. Let's go Gonzo, get your stuff together brah.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Yup, I should have a new wideband in the mail tomorrow. The seller didn't know if it was immo defeated so I'll be throwing it in and checking tomorrow. If its not I'm sending it to Arnold for immo defeat. I get paid Friday and hopefully have enough to order the maestro suite.

-s1eepydub- let us know how it goes. I couldn't stand shipping it back and forth anymore. It always took more than the alleged day and ended up being over a week in shipping time alone. It's the main reason in going maestro


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

s1eepydub said:


> Car refuses to turn over and idle, just cranks. I've pm'd him about it and haven't heard anything yet. I find it funny that before I sent him the ecu the car started and idled fine.


How do you switch between programs right now?


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## s1eepydub (Jan 24, 2012)

Seth - I'll let you know what happens. Emailed and PM'd last night, called multiple times today and got no answer, posted on his facebook page and still nothing. I'm not holding my breath honestly.

Issam - I'm not switching between tunes, the car won't even start. Before I sent him my ecu it fired up and idled fine. Now that his tune is on it the car doesn't start. I just want it mobile again.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

s1eepydub said:


> having the same issue with my ecu that I sent Gonzo. Car refuses to turn over and idle, just cranks. I've pm'd him about it and haven't heard anything yet. I find it funny that before I sent him the ecu the car started and idled fine. I didn't let it run very long as none of the cooling system was connected, however it did function properly. Now I get the ecu back, had the cooling system hooked up and it won't run... Odd isn't it. Let's go Gonzo, get your stuff together brah.


:facepalm: I been tellin yall for the longest this guy is a joke. His fanboys always get mad 



seth_3515 said:


> Yup, I should have a new wideband in the mail tomorrow. The seller didn't know if it was immo defeated so I'll be throwing it in and checking tomorrow. If its not I'm sending it to Arnold for immo defeat. I get paid Friday and hopefully have enough to order the maestro suite.
> 
> -s1eepydub- let us know how it goes. I couldn't stand shipping it back and forth anymore. It always took more than the alleged day and ended up being over a week in shipping time alone. It's the main reason in going maestro


You will like the Eurodyne software. The new files are sick :thumbup:



s1eepydub said:


> Seth - I'll let you know what happens. Emailed and PM'd last night, called multiple times today and got no answer, posted on his facebook page and still nothing. I'm not holding my breath honestly.
> 
> Issam - I'm not switching between tunes, the car won't even start. Before I sent him my ecu it fired up and idled fine. Now that his tune is on it the car doesn't start. I just want it mobile again.


:facepalm: damn he need to get this $hit sorted out asap. muppets, jeez


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Maybe some of the n00bs will listen to the old heads now. We don't post against certain 'cartooners', and vendors out of line. We post to save guys aggravation, headaches, and $$$$.

Id recommend eurodyne any day for example; because I've used it, and liked it. 

That said; when someone posts about 'cartooning' or some other craziness, I DONT reply with "get a eurodyne tune".. 

I DO reply with "get a Unitronic or Eurodyne tune"; which is clearly an unbiased, and fair recommendation, as they both produce solid BT tunes. How that gets misconstrued by n00b's as bias ill never understand. Its just solid advice....


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> Maybe some of the n00bs will listen to the old heads now. We don't post against certain 'cartooners', and vendors out of line. We post to save guys aggravation, headaches, and $$$$.
> 
> Id recommend eurodyne any day for example; because I've used it, and liked it.
> 
> ...


:beer: I recommend either Uni or Eurodyne as well. The have proper big turbo software(s)


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

s1eepydub said:


> having the same issue with my ecu that I sent Gonzo. Car refuses to turn over and idle, just cranks. I've pm'd him about it and haven't heard anything yet. I find it funny that before I sent him the ecu the car started and idled fine. I didn't let it run very long as none of the cooling system was connected, however it did function properly. Now I get the ecu back, had the cooling system hooked up and it won't run... Odd isn't it. Let's go Gonzo, get your stuff together brah.


I just replied to your PM.



seth_3515 said:


> -s1eepydub- let us know how it goes. I couldn't stand shipping it back and forth anymore. It always took more than the alleged day and ended up being over a week in shipping time alone. It's the main reason in going maestro


 The shipping back and forth was because you had a fried ECU. When USPS lost yours, I offered a free replacement. I really tried my best to help you out. I even gave you a refund after more than 9 months since you had purchased your tune (which I shouldn't have, it wasn't a sw issue and it was after 60 days).

Also all revisions I offer are free and can be flashed from the comfort of your own home (or garage/driveway rather), so it's not like you would have to ship your ECU if you ever made any hardware changes.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> I just replied to your PM.
> 
> 
> The shipping back and forth was because you had a fried ECU. When USPS lost yours, I offered a free replacement. I really tried my best to help you out. I even gave you a refund after more than 9 months since you had purchased your tune (which I shouldn't have, it wasn't a sw issue and it was after 60 days).
> ...


If it want to get technical, you flashed a fried Ecu without knowing even knowing.. Then USPS lost an Ecu and you replace with another unit that wasn't working.. You had yet to provide a working product. Besides it takes you a week to get an answer unless the problem is made public and others can see issues with your service. After numerous phone calls and pms, it takes up to a week to hear anything. I call pag parts or m Arnold and I get a reply te same day. Hence why I'm going with him. You may be able to make a change after hardware changes but you have to get a working base tune first..

-even with the replacement you didn't immo defeat it and it started and shut off after 3 seconds. I sent you the ecu again and the new Ecu didn't even give a spark or fuel signal.


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

seth_3515 said:


> If it want to get technical, you flashed a fried Ecu without knowing even knowing.. Then USPS lost an Ecu and you replace with another unit that wasn't working.. You had yet to provide a working product. Besides it takes you a week to get an answer unless the problem is made public and others can see issues with your service. After numerous phone calls and pms, it takes up to a week to hear anything. I call pag parts or m Arnold and I get a reply te same day. Hence why I'm going with him. You may be able to make a change after hardware changes but you have to get a working base tune first..
> 
> -even with the replacement you didn't immo defeat it and it started and shut off after 3 seconds. I sent you the ecu again and the new Ecu didn't even give a spark or fuel signal.


 OK, so I'm responsible for testing every ECU that comes my way? If you sent me a fried ECU, I have no way of telling on the bench without tearing the ECU apart and doing tests. 

99% of the shipping and all the issues you had would have not happened if you didn't have a fried ECU. Period.

Like I said, its not my fault. I tried my best, but you didn't have any patience. I'm not going to argue. I gave you a refund because it was just too much of hassle having to go back and forth with someone for 9 months and honestly I just wanted to get it over with. Again, good luck with your build.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> OK, so I'm responsible for testing every ECU that comes my way? If you sent me a fried ECU, I have no way of telling on the bench without tearing the ECU apart and doing tests.
> 
> 99% of the shipping and all the issues you had would have not happened if you didn't have a fried ECU. Period.
> 
> Like I said, its not my fault. I tried my best, but you didn't have any patience. I'm not going to argue. I gave you a refund because it was just too much of hassle having to go back and forth with someone for 9 months. Again, good luck with your build.


And I'm suppose to know it was fried? It's not even about the fried one.. The other two after you couldn't get right either.. None of the hassles would have happened either if you could have got it right with the new Ecu I sent you that I opened up to assure it wasn't fried.. The other side of it is is just as s1eepy described. Even after numerous calls and pms it takes up to week for a reply. Again, everytime I called Arnold or pmd I spoke with/ or got a reply same day (next day if it was late)


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

The fried ECU you sent me was my fault and USPS losing your ECU was my fault too. You win.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

seth_3515 said:


> If it want to get technical, you flashed a fried Ecu without knowing even knowing.. Then USPS lost an Ecu and you replace with another unit that wasn't working.. You had yet to provide a working product. Besides it takes you a week to get an answer unless the problem is made public and others can see issues with your service. After numerous phone calls and pms, it takes up to a week to hear anything. I call pag parts or m Arnold and I get a reply te same day. Hence why I'm going with him. You may be able to make a change after hardware changes but you have to get a working base tune first..
> 
> -even with the replacement you didn't immo defeat it and it started and shut off after 3 seconds. I sent you the ecu again and the new Ecu didn't even give a spark or fuel signal.


he does seem to wait a until someone goes public with a problem to respond quite frequently. this isn't the 1st instance i've seen in here. seen some in the mk4 forum as well. 



seth_3515 said:


> And I'm suppose to know it was fried? It's not even about the fried one.. The other two after you couldn't get right either.. None of the hassles would have happened either if you could have got it right with the new Ecu I sent you that I opened up to assure it wasn't fried.. The other side of it is is just as s1eepy described. Even after numerous calls and pms it takes up to week for a reply. Again, everytime I called Arnold or pmd I spoke with/ or got a reply same day (next day if it was late)


:thumbup:opcorn: Arnold is the man btw :beer: 



[email protected] said:


> The fried ECU you sent me was my fault and USPS losing your ECU was my fault too. You win.


what about the other one's? it's not just about the 1 fried one. 



[email protected] said:


> OK, so I'm responsible for testing every ECU that comes my way?


ummm, yes. thats what tuner's are supposed to do for their customers right? I forgot, you don't properly test anything you do :facepalm: that terrific specimen of a test car you had in the GTT thread was amazing :screwy: also, another guy had the same problem as Seth so I guess the other guy has fried ECU's and shipping problems as well?


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

Big_Tom said:


> ummm, yes. thats what tuner's are supposed to do for their customers right? I forgot, you don't properly test anything you do :facepalm: that terrific specimen of a test car you had in the GTT thread was amazing :screwy: also, another guy had the same problem as Seth so I guess the other guy has fried ECU's and shipping problems as well?


 I didn't make or supply the ECU so I don't have to test it. If I hook it up to the bench and it doesn't respond or it has a weird fault code, I will get in contact with the customer. Otherwise I shouldn't be expected to tear an ECU up and do a test on every component inside. That's not what the customer ordered.

If you take a bad tire to get it installed to a tire shop, and they don't see any damage visually, you can't expect them to test the tire out for you since that's not what you asked them to do. Same with a mechanic.

I usually help out customers troubleshooting their issues and have to play mechanic over the computer, but I do it for free as a courtesy even though 99.8% of the issues customers have are completely not tuned related.


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

Oh, talking about test cars, you guys should come to Waterfest to check out our BT cars :wave:


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Oh, talking about test cars, you guys should come to Waterfest to check out our BT cars :wave:


I have no doubt your public display cars run perfectly.. It's the same reason we keep hearing you won't respond until a problem is made public. You are no better than a politician, you are only worried about public perception to maintain business. It's the behind the scene service everyone is complaining about..


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> I didn't make or supply the ECU so I don't have to test it. If I hook it up to the bench and it doesn't respond or it has a weird fault code, I will get in contact with the customer. Otherwise I shouldn't be expected to tear an ECU up and do a test on every component inside. That's not what the customer ordered.
> 
> If you take a bad tire to get it installed to a tire shop, and they don't see any damage visually, you can't expect them to test the tire out for you since that's not what you asked them to do. Same with a mechanic.


Excuses! Hey, if you can't figure out how to make your business hassle free that's on you. i suspect you probably don't have the resources to properly test most of the work you do. this is y you experiment on other peoples cars so much.



[email protected] said:


> Oh, talking about test cars, you guys should come to Waterfest to check out our BT cars :wave:


:facepalm: never, i hope your booth ends up right betweeen the Uni and Eurodyne booths :thumbup:



seth_3515 said:


> I have no doubt your public display cars run perfectly.. It's the same reason we keep hearing you won't respond until a problem is made public. You are no better than a politician, you are only worried about public perception to maintain business. It's the behind the scene service everyone is complaining about..


his display cars prob still don't run worth a $hit. they are for display purposes only . haven't a gonzo customer doing anything real. most of them are still trying to figure out how to put their bags and wheel spacerz on :screwy:


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

^^^what he said..

And whatever happened to that 'wonderous' atp, gtx build eh? Probably still sitting in pieces, or running like total poop. If it WAS in fact complete, and running well; im sure we would've seen videos plastered all over the 'emkay' forum of it boosting 35 psi in neutral.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> ^^^what he said..
> 
> And whatever happened to that 'wonderous' atp, gtx build eh? Probably still sitting in pieces, or running like total poop. If it WAS in fact complete, and running well; im sure we would've seen videos plastered all over the 'emkay' forum of it boosting 35 psi in neutral.


:beer: oh yea that thread's been quiet for so long i forgot about it. just like those awesome sick gtt terminator, urrrraahhhh whatever it was turbos.


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

:wave:


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> :wave:


:wave:


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

opcorn:


----------



## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

tits


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> :wave:


:beer:


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Dub-Nub said:


> tits


Im an ass man myself :beer:


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

seth_3515 said:


> Im an ass man myself :beer:


I need both or GTFO


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Anyone know the cheapest source for DR-25?


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

seth_3515 said:


> Anyone know the cheapest source for DR-25?


whats that?


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

unitronic, eurodyne(not just maestro), or united.

best ones:beer:


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

seth_3515 said:


> Im an ass man myself :beer:


Me too:thumbup::thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Ok, got unitronic 830cc file and it started right up. Problem- in neutral I'm getting a lot of chatter and I mean it's very noticeable. I'm using IE reinforced shift fork, could this be cause problems like one_eight_gti I think is his name. With the clutch pushed in its quiet it's just when engaged it chatters loudly


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Something is in there or it's hitting the bell housing. Started it and saw a spark inside the belling housing hole on top. It's only when the clutch is not engaged though. I'm pulling the motor now


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Ha! You get a Uni file and the car starts right up:beer: 

:facepalm: fawkin muppets.... 

anyways, you should get some chatter when not holding down the clutch pedal if you have a lightened FW. You shouldn't see sparks tho lol. Is it that bad? Did you try to roll it at all? Pull it out the garage and back in or something? Any grinding?


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> Ha! You get a Uni file and the car starts right up:beer:
> 
> :facepalm: fawkin muppets....
> 
> anyways, you should get some chatter when not holding down the clutch pedal if you have a lightened FW. You shouldn't see sparks tho lol. Is it that bad? Did you try to roll it at all? Pull it out the garage and back in or something? Any grinding?


I did see some sparks through the hole. It's pretty bad IMO.. Smoked a little when turned it off. Something is definitely grinding. I really dot want to pull the engine but I would rather be safe than sorry. It feelsand looks like the pressure plate or flywheel is hitting te bell housing somewhere. Fully depressed there is no noise or anything it doesn't start to "chatter" until the pedal is almost fully disengaged.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

just pull the trans. i am personally not a fan of those "reinforced" levers.

my buddys gti i did an fx100, chatters like crazy, but it drives and runs awesome till this day.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Vegeta Gti said:


> just pull the trans. i am personally not a fan of those "reinforced" levers.
> 
> my buddys gti i did an fx100, chatters like crazy, but it drives and runs awesome till this day.


I'm pulling it. There were sparks so there should be spots so I know whats hitting. The engine needed a little gas to get started and limped at idle but started to correct itself and idle better when I let it run (clutche pushed in so nothing would grind) thanks for the advice on the tune vegeta, really appreciate it


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

seth_3515 said:


> I'm pulling it. There were sparks so there should be spots so I know whats hitting. The engine needed a little gas to get started and limped at idle but started to correct itself and idle better when I let it run (clutche pushed in so nothing would grind) thanks for the advice on the tune vegeta, really appreciate it


Yeah don't chance it, I was back and forth on pulling mine and look what happened...:banghead: I thought mine was hitting the pinion brace but obviously not..

Glad you got it running though:thumbup:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

:beer::beer::beer:

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Unfortunately I work weekends 4am-12. By the time I got things wired up and turned it over it was 3 pm so I went ahead and drained the fluids to pull the motor, removed front radiator support and wiring. Just gotta unbolt the axles and down pipe today and pull it. It's my birthday though and don't have to work tomorrow so I'll be spending all evening/night (a lor cooler) working on it. (107 degrees yesterday afternoon is why I stopped) Ill post pics of my modifications tithe shift fork as I'm almost certain (thanks to one-eight gtis thread) it's what is causing the issue. Only a few more days..


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

I've been looking around as far as fans and radiators. I'm thinking i want to go with The ECS 3 row radiator, 16in universal fan and 12in universal fan. The 16in fan pushes 2x the air the 14in does and te 12in pushes almost the exact same amount as the 14in.. I am really considering getting rid of the fan switch to eliminate more bundles of wires and just run a manual switch setup. I have been debating on a rocker panel. This way I will have switches for the external fuel pump, awic pump, awic fan, and radiator fans. I'm not exactly how sure I am of this but really starting to consider it. Anyone else done anything similar?


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

seth_3515 said:


> Unfortunately I work weekends 4am-12. By the time I got things wired up and turned it over it was 3 pm so I went ahead and drained the fluids to pull the motor, removed front radiator support and wiring. Just gotta unbolt the axles and down pipe today and pull it. It's my birthday though and don't have to work tomorrow so I'll be spending all evening/night (a lor cooler) working on it. (107 degrees yesterday afternoon is why I stopped) Ill post pics of my modifications tithe shift fork as I'm almost certain (thanks to one-eight gtis thread) it's what is causing the issue. Only a few more days..


 Happy Birthday!!!!!! I worked on my car on my B-day also, good times... Looking forward to seeing pics...opcorn:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Happy Birthday Bro :beer:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Thanks! Since I just need to unbolt the axles and downpipe (vband) I can have the motor out in less than an hour. I really think i can get it back in by late tonight. I think I'm gonna push through and pull an all brighter if I have to to get it road worthy


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

It was the shift fork rubbing and part of the bell housing. Uploading pics here after a bit


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

seth_3515 said:


> It was the shift fork rubbing and part of the bell housing. Uploading pics here after a bit


damn. at least u figured it out fast


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## 1.8tjettamk4 (May 12, 2010)

Happy Birthday I'm really diggin this thread awesome build can't wait to see some vids! what did you end up using for your side exhaust? oval tubing? :beer:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

before-









After-


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Ok got the transmission fixed. When started up itll warm up a little and start to smoke a bit  looks like for the bak f the bay so I'm thinking turbo...


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

seth_3515 said:


> Ok got the transmission fixed. When started up itll warm up a little and start to smoke a bit  looks like for the bak f the bay so I'm thinking turbo...


 -nvm just a little oil on the valve cover.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

a little update- 

Car is running, but I have a problem. The brakes were finnicky. I bled them again and took my time to get as much air out as possible. Now, the brake pedal is very very stiff and not engaging the brakes. I first was afraid of a vac leak but I have new tubing with the check valve.. Ill be making a pressure test fitting in the next few days to check all the vacuum lines. I dont want to drive it around on questionable brakes so I havent been able to log anything yet. It smells rich though, so I know ill be need to tweak it as well as getting the idle more stable. I plan on starting with the pressure testing and fixing leaks (although, I did think if there was a vac leak I would be running lean)aa, if that doesnt work then start looking at the booster. I did get to go on a spirited shift from second to third.. Cant wait to get these other things taken care of :thumbup:


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## zrau17 (Apr 21, 2010)

Good to see it's finally running. Get this ish sorted out and post up some videooooos :thumbup:


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## nbkkb7x (Jan 12, 2009)

seth_3515 said:


> I've been looking around as far as fans and radiators. I'm thinking i want to go with The ECS 3 row radiator, 16in universal fan and 12in universal fan. The 16in fan pushes 2x the air the 14in does and te 12in pushes almost the exact same amount as the 14in.. I am really considering getting rid of the fan switch to eliminate more bundles of wires and just run a manual switch setup. I have been debating on a rocker panel. This way I will have switches for the external fuel pump, awic pump, awic fan, and radiator fans. I'm not exactly how sure I am of this but really starting to consider it. Anyone else done anything similar?


 VwTurboWolf has a killer fan and radiator setup. I'd search that thread for ideas. I used his setup as a base for mine, however I wanted to retain A/C so I had to keep the condenser and lines. You'd be amazed how weak the OEM fans are compared to a SPAL or FAL setup.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Finally, my intake leak test adapter and 2.0t coils w/ adapters came in. Tomorrow Ill be removing the IC piping and adding clamps to all vacuum lines to try and seal up a suspected vacuum leak. Replacing the coils and regapping the plugs wont take ten minutes, but hopefully clearing up the vac leak will help the lean running engine and stiff brake pedal. Hope this helps, didnt want to start tuning with a suspected vac leak so I have been waiting for these parts :beer:


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Nice, looking forward to updates:thumbup: Did Pete ever get back to you about the "free" clutchfork???


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Nice, looking forward to updates:thumbup: Did Pete ever get back to you about the "free" clutchfork???


 Nope.


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

seth_3515 said:


> Nope.


 Me either:facepalm:


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Dont hold your breaths :sly:

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

schwartzmagic said:


> Dont hold your breaths :sly:
> 
> Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


 I can't speak for Seth but believe me I'm not


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

yeup^


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

schwartzmagic said:


> Dont hold your breaths :sly:
> 
> Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


 damn


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## [email protected] (Jan 2, 2009)

They are coming, I am just swamped with this Bonneville build at the moment. I have your two emails flagged to keep track of them, sorry about that!


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

quick question.. I pulled my IC piping, installed the 2.0t coils, and removed vac manifold (ebay, and I thought it wasnt sealing up well..) I am removing the vacuum manifold for now. I was wondering about T'ing the vac lines. As it was I had the EBC pressure sensor and BOV connected by a T fitting. I want to add the FPR to this as well. This way I would have a line from the manifold to a T fitting that runs to the FPR and to the second T fitting that connects to the pressure sensor and BOV. Is there such thing as running too many consecutive T fittings? I didnt think there would be a problem, but wanted some opinions to make me feel better about doing it. I do plan on getting more lines to eliminate it and run more straight from the manifold but itll be a few about 2 weeks before I can..


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

put the FPR on a dedicated line, do the same for the DV/BOV. You should be fine with t-fitting anything else u want.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

well damn.. didnt have enough line (in sexy frozenboost blue lol) so i just ordered some more.. They are really fast at shipping usually so hopefully have it soon.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Vac hose came in yesterday and I started running the new lines. Pulled the SEM and the gasket was ripped!! Ordered a new one from IE and that had it shipped in two hours.. I was pretty impressed, except that the shipping cost more than the gasket :facepalm: overall I feel like its all coming together though. The first drive was nice, but I just wasn't happy. I feel like the loose ends are getting tied up and I am becoming more confident in the reliability criteria as it progresses. Only time will tell though :wave:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Ok, I rerouted the vac lines and brakes are better. I am only pulling 11mmHg of vacuum though. I think I still have a vac leak. I do have my tester though and will be doing a leakdown test. It is idling at 1.4 Lambda so its lean and hoping its from a vac leak. 

-My biggest concern is the half moon on the head. Its spitting out oil!! It did have a blbue rubber gasket but I believe it wasnt replaced when I had the exhaust valves done. I am going to try and find a way to block it off. Also, could this be a source of the vac leak if its running? I didnt know for sure but was fairly certain before starting my vac lines wouldnt leak. 

-Next issue is the fuel pump(s). Using the power wire from the fuel pump to signal the external relay wouldnt work. I think my door switch is out so I hardwired the fuel pump for the time being. With just the fuel pump (no external) it runs fine. As soon as I switch on the external pump, the motor dies. I have a Jegs fuel pressure gauge plumbed with an inline fitting before the FPR and it is rading all over the place. The battery is charging now but I will get an exact reading. Are the Jegs gauges accurate? Does anyone know? 

There is still a lot to do but im not giving up and gaining headway.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Ordered new cam tensioner gasket, half moon seal, and tensioner tool when I got home. I'm really annoyed as the half moon obviously wasn't installed correctly since the tensioner has to be removed to install it. Also got new valve cover gasket kit as I didn't want to reuse one. Now if I can sort out this fuel pressure and pump issue I'll be alright. At idle the pressure gauge was reading almost 100psi! I have a new 3 bar fpr from USRT is tere anyway to check these?


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

What's up with some progress pics


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

not really much has changed. just rerouted the vac lines, the awic plumbing to put the fill-neck behind the core for easier access, and IE red coils lol Im tearing it apart tomorrow to get started on the cam tensioner gasket situation :beer:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

before I tear into the head.. 

can the Tial 38mm wastegates be torn down to move the bottom port to the side? its a pain in the ass and touches the valve cover. Heres a quick shot while I was taking the valve cover and **** off to do the half moon seal.


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Ask for pics and you shall receive lol!! :thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Was having some issues with the fuel pump and regulator. The gauge was reading different pressures and the car would shut off if I turned on the external fuel pump. I wasnt happy with the way the 034 fpr adapter sat on the rail. So I ordered a USRT intank pump and FuelLab adjustable FPR with a new pressure gauge. Hopefully, this will help with the issues and I can finally start tuning it! 

- cam tensioner tool, gasket, half moon seal, and valve cover gaskets will be in today. I should be able to get it done tonight or tomorrow and have things ready to drop in the fuel pump and FPR when it gets here. :beer:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

fixed the half moon seal today! super easy with the depress tool :thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Aug 1, 2011)

seth_3515 said:


> Was having some issues with the fuel pump and regulator. The gauge was reading different pressures and the car would shut off if I turned on the external fuel pump. I wasnt happy with the way the 034 fpr adapter sat on the rail. So I ordered a USRT intank pump and FuelLab adjustable FPR with a new pressure gauge. Hopefully, this will help with the issues and I can finally start tuning it!
> 
> - cam tensioner tool, gasket, half moon seal, and valve cover gaskets will be in today. I should be able to get it done tonight or tomorrow and have things ready to drop in the fuel pump and FPR when it gets here. :beer:


Long time no talk Seth, hope all is well with ya. I will be shipping your order today :beer::thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Long time no talk Seth, hope all is well with ya. I will be shipping your order today :beer::thumbup:


Been tryin to get these little quirks sorted out. Fuel system has been acting up, so I decided to start fresh and get it right! I had been wanting that I tank for awhile and finally had the means to do it!


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## [email protected] (Aug 1, 2011)

seth_3515 said:


> Been tryin to get these little quirks sorted out. Fuel system has been acting up, so I decided to start fresh and get it right! I had been wanting that I tank for awhile and finally had the means to do it!


Yea, the genesis intank pump is nice, and works well. Pretty reasonably priced even compared to an oem replacement. What kind of problems are you having with your fueling? I included some USRT vinyl in the package so you can rep it in the OK :laugh:ic:


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

seth-i'd remove the gasket for the WG...I haven't run one since I blew out the tial gasket on my pagparts mani and no leaks without it the gasket...yours does look better then what tial use to supply:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

18T_BT said:


> seth-i'd remove the gasket for the WG...I haven't run one since I blew out the tial gasket on my pagparts mani and no leaks without it the gasket...yours does look better then what tial use to supply:


keep the gasket! i wish i had pics of the 2 wastegate gaskets i have. they are stainless steel and heavy. almost like a mini flange. theres no way anyone could blow one of those out. i'd have to see it to believe it


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

for the longest time slowboy racing had a $hitty website. it seems like they have their site together better now and these gaskets are now listed. :thumbup: They are local to me, i buy all my t3/wastegate/turbine housing related gaskets from them if i can. :thumbup:

http://www.built4g63.com/Built-Industries-38mm-SS-gasket.html










check out their t3 turbo inlet gaskets as well:thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Yea, the genesis intank pump is nice, and works well. Pretty reasonably priced even compared to an oem replacement. What kind of problems are you having with your fueling? I included some USRT vinyl in the package so you can rep it in the OK :laugh:ic:


You know I'll rep it! Well, I could narrow it down. I had the inline JEGS gauge ad kept getting a variated reading between 80-100 psi with only the stock pump running. If I turn on the external it would kill the engine. I was thinking it could have been the regulator, but the pump wasn't priming when I opened the door either.. So, I decided to hardware the pump. It would come on and the car would run (although lean, this is why I was confused. If it was running at the 80-100 psi it would have to be rich). I had an adjustable drop in fpr. It was a bitch trying to get a good vacuum seal on the nipple as well. So being fed up I decided to get a new pump (so I could pully the external for awhile to eliminate that variable. Get the fuel lab fpr and your pressure gauge so I know things are working properly. Getting those fprs in the 034 adapter was a bitch and I was afraid I would break the fpr or alter the pressure of it with too much force. Also I bought the Ecu used. With VCDS I noticed the Ecu had an 870/R4 signature on it.. If it truly is 870 then I'm running these injectors it could explain the lean issue and a faulty JEGS gauge would explain why it ran ok even though it was reading extremely high. If it was 870 file then I would need a lot of tuning as well to get a good idle/part throttle. I said **** this. I will get a new easily adjustable fpr with a good gauge and new pump because it puts out so much more and could run without the external for a bit and add it on later. With the adjustable fpr I can get my idle AFRs in a good region. Then, Run some logs to make sure it's good through the rest of the band and due minor adjustments through Unisettings to good a good curve and timing. 

-WG gasket is on the bottom of the list right now. I want to get the fuel system taken care of first. Then I'll seafoam it and if it's an issue I'll be back to hear some suggestions since we already have varying opinions on the posts above.


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## [email protected] (Aug 1, 2011)

seth_3515 said:


> You know I'll rep it! Well, I could narrow it down. I had the inline JEGS gauge ad kept getting a variated reading between 80-100 psi with only the stock pump running. If I turn on the external it would kill the engine. I was thinking it could have been the regulator, but the pump wasn't priming when I opened the door either.. So, I decided to hardware the pump. It would come on and the car would run (although lean, this is why I was confused. If it was running at the 80-100 psi it would have to be rich). I had an adjustable drop in fpr. It was a bitch trying to get a good vacuum seal on the nipple as well. So being fed up I decided to get a new pump (so I could pully the external for awhile to eliminate that variable. Get the fuel lab fpr and your pressure gauge so I know things are working properly. Getting those fprs in the 034 adapter was a bitch and I was afraid I would break the fpr or alter the pressure of it with too much force. Also I bought the Ecu used. With VCDS I noticed the Ecu had an 870/R4 signature on it.. If it truly is 870 then I'm running these injectors it could explain the lean issue and a faulty JEGS gauge would explain why it ran ok even though it was reading extremely high. If it was 870 file then I would need a lot of tuning as well to get a good idle/part throttle. I said **** this. I will get a new easily adjustable fpr with a good gauge and new pump because it puts out so much more and could run without the external for a bit and add it on later. With the adjustable fpr I can get my idle AFRs in a good region. Then, Run some logs to make sure it's good through the rest of the band and due minor adjustments through Unisettings to good a good curve and timing.
> 
> -WG gasket is on the bottom of the list right now. I want to get the fuel system taken care of first. Then I'll seafoam it and if it's an issue I'll be back to hear some suggestions since we already have varying opinions on the posts above.


Sounds like you got it all figured out. So you think you have a Unitronic 830cc file? Give me the ECU information if you can and I will look it up in the database. I should be able to have an answer for you. Did you buy the ECU off the original purchaser of the software?


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

I think I have an 870 file and 849cc injectors (racetronix) it would explain the lean issue, but I thought they didn't make an "870 file". I'm not 100% on this though, I never searched enough to see where the 870/830 file as far as existence and time frames. I'm not sure if he was the original owner or not. I'll get you the signature on it though. It would really help me out to know so I can have more clues to trouble shoot problems.


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## wrestler4life521 (Aug 12, 2010)

Ive been following your thread on grass city. Small world.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Anyone know a reputable unitronic tuner in states bordering oklahoma? Considering taking it to someone for the first tune and looking for suggestions


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## zrau17 (Apr 21, 2010)

I use Cometic gaskets, I kept blowing the normal thin steel ones. Since the Cometic switch I also use high grade flange head bolts with nordlocks.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

USRT fuel pump and fuel lab adjustable fpr came in today! Have tomorrow off so I'll be doing work to get it going. I'm hoping the second muffler comes in today so I can get it welded tomorrow after its up and running.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Finally got all the fittings and got everything installed! It's running much better as well! I can definitely tell a difference in the idle and ability to stay at idle without jumping around. Unfortunately, injector number 4 needs a new oring  more time but I can definitely see the potential of the engine. ordering the oring tonight with some spares, then pressure test intake again tomorrow. Patience and persistence is starting to show results.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

seth_3515 said:


> Finally got all the fittings and got everything installed! It's running much better as well! I can definitely tell a difference in the idle and ability to stay at idle without jumping around. Unfortunately, injector number 4 needs a new oring  more time but I can definitely see the potential of the engine. ordering the oring tonight with some spares, then pressure test intake again tomorrow. Patience and persistence is starting to show results.


 :beer:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Got a vac leak at the injector!! I could hear the air escaping and kept looking for it. It sound like it was at the fuel rail and I was getting perplexed. Finally I noticed the injectors and thought it could be it. Poured a small amount of water on the base of the injector near te manifold. Sure enough it seemed to "gurgle" just a bit. I had an oring and put it in. I didn't have time to retest the intake but will be doing that this morning along with putting resistors on the N112, N249, and N80 so I can get my fuel adaptation back and get it running even better. In a perfect world I should be done with the car by noon (starting at 10 when I get off work) and get to a muffler hop to have my muffler, and exhaust hangers welded this afternoon but I don't know what time they close for sure so we shall see. 

-did a spirited little pull from 1-3. I must say I was happy. It spiked around 15psi and is averaging around 11mmhg of vacuum at idle. After letting off the gas to a corner, it still stumbles a bit to find idle and maintain the 11mmhg. When this happens it starts around 5mmhg, bounces between 5 and 11mmhg before maintaining it. I think it had to do with the small vac leak and the Ecu not ring able to adapt the fuel. Hopefully today will solve that and finally be ready to get her on a dyno and do some tuning.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Little update: Finally was able to seal the injectors up. They needed to be raised a 1/4 inch or so. Oem exhaust manifold washers worked perfectly :thumbup: My AFR's dropped drastically right away. Before, the car would idle very rough and of course never hold vacuum. Now, it searches for a second or two to find the sweet spot. Its nice to finally have it idling so smoothly and its holding 15mmhg of vacuum at idle now. I want to pressure test some more and then Ill be starting to tune it. 

-The first pull after the leak was fixed was awesome. It pulls hard and is very manageable. I was running of WG spring and spiked around 15psi. The car feels a little rough at part throttle but in boost it feels smooth. Ill be trying to get it to run a bit better at part throttle and I think the tune just needs a little love and itll shine. 

-The suspension upgrades helped the handling immensely. The ST coilovers got me to a good height and were easy to install. They seem to ride very well for a quality "budget" setup. The rear spring could be rated differently. I think I may get some different rated springs to try out. I havent got to drive enough to get a better idea on how much. I plan on following the old madmax thread on the suspension of the TT and try it his suggested spring rates along with 2 other pairs (one rated a little lower and one a little higher) to see what fits for me best. 

-USRT tubulars- Fukin ROCK! These control arms honestly give you a much better feel of the road. I wish I could put it in to words better but here is my attempt to give an example. -These control arms offer smoother and "longer" articulation of the wheel. First thing i noticed was on a decline exit curve. At a good rate of speed (not speed racer fast, but the passenger clinched the door and was trying to hold on), I went into the corner. The outside front wheel actually felt planted. As I came upon the apex, the weight of the load increased on that tire. The more the load increased the more a could feel the tire's contact with the road. It never felt like it was on the brink of breaking loose. It felt like it just planted more and more. The control arms definitely give much more feedback from the road and tires. I received a lot of pms asking about them and I would highly recommend them to anyone considering them. With the car running much better now, Ill post more as I get more seat time. 

-Wavetrac LSD- :thumbup::thumbup: On spirited pulls, I wasnt getting any torque steer at all. I had some low rpm 2nd gear pulls. When the boost came on, the tires would give a good long screech but not actually break completely loose. I wasnt trying to break them loose but wasnt trying not too either. At 15psi it makes for a very, very manageable and streetable setup. I also had the 5th gear changed to a TDI gear. This made a big difference in highway speed RPMs. When I was talking to Gonzo he said he wasnt sure if the cruise control would work with the TDI 5th gear (not trying to start **** but im sure others have/had the same questions). My cruise control still works and would recommend the upgrade to only those who drive a lot of highway miles. 

-USRT fuel pump and FPR- I had some weird issues in the fueling department. My drop in FPR or gauge was off, my walbro was acting up, and wasnt getting consistent pressures. I scrapped the whole system and went with the USRT Genesis intake pump, FuelLab adjustable FPR with gauge, and all -6AN lines. This made a huge difference! It is extremely easy to adjust the fuel pressure and keeps it very steady. All in all it was worth every penny and really simplified the setup. When the time comes I will be adding a surge tank, but the beauty is I wont need one for a little bit til I start really raising the boost pressure and start making serious power. 

- IE and PAG parts dont need a review IMO. The only thing I am kicking myself for is not waiting a little longer for the Vband set up :facepalm: All the other parts have held up and I have been very happy. DP fits, turbo manifold was easy to install, WG lined up with the dump tube as well. We all know these are tried and true quality parts so I wont spend much time on them.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

:beer::beer:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

It's been awhile but I have been busy with work, school, and life.. Anywho the car was driving good on 15psi. Wasn't the est tune but I didn't have everything done the way I wanted it. So here it is again, a very long build thread. The more I do, the more ideas I get.. Unfortunately I don't have all the tools just yet to do what I really want to but soon enough

New items 
- supertech springs, retainers, and valves in a cleaned, decked, and ported AEB head. All being done at the local shop. I've developed a good report with the owner and he was very knowledgable and seemed worthy.. 
-I went with ehlring on all the gaskets 
-ordering an IE camshaft gear for the AEB on Friday as well as a gates timing belt 

The plan is to get the new he's finished and installed on the car and make sure tuning is acceptable to atleast drive the car at 15psi. At this point, I will dig a little deeper and get the fluidamper and IE surge tank with an 044 since I am only running the USRT for the time being. I didn't dyno the car last year but I plan on getting it there this year. I am actively pursuing the tools to do a tubular front radiator piece. The black plastic is getting in te way and I could really benefit myself to do it. If any body has some tips on this please lmk!


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

seth_3515 said:


> I am actively pursuing the tools to do a tubular front radiator piece. The black plastic is getting in te way and I could really benefit myself to do it. If any body has some tips on this please lmk!


Talk to Luis *A267mm*. He was having a shop build a tubular radiator support out of aluminum.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

schwartzmagic said:


> Talk to Luis *A267mm*. He was having a shop build a tubular radiator support out of aluminum.


Really? Thanks man, I really appreciate it. I'll message him


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## [email protected] (Jan 2, 2009)

seth_3515 said:


> before I tear into the head..
> 
> can the Tial 38mm wastegates be torn down to move the bottom port to the side? its a pain in the ass and touches the valve cover. Heres a quick shot while I was taking the valve cover and **** off to do the half moon seal.


Yes, you can- there are some set screws way down in there that hold the whole aluminum assembly on. :thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Yes, you can- there are some set screws way down in there that hold the whole aluminum assembly on. :thumbup:


Hell yeah! I'll be doing that while the head is getting worked on. Thanks btw on the quick shipping with the springs, cam gear, head bolts and other odds and ends. You guys have been great!


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

schwartzmagic said:


> Talk to Luis *A267mm*. He was having a shop build a tubular radiator support out of aluminum.


 
I'm thinking group buy:thumbup::laugh: That would be a nice item to have


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## Gonzzz (Apr 27, 2010)

Bump this shizz


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

JohnnyLlama said:


> Bump this shizz


Yeah we need a update


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Well, my 3-row Valero radiator came in yesterday along with a 16" and 12" fan. I'm getting an IE fuel tank, talking with gonzo about possible tuning, and thinking about snatching some genesis II 1000cc injectors. This head Should be done in a few days as well. It has super tech Valvetrain, custom porting, new seats and IE cam gear. This pic is bare head pre assembly..


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Guess I should explain the fans.. I am using the 16" fan as my puller. It fits the radiator and was rated at 19~~Cfms. I already have a small 10" pusher on the awic heat exchanger and will add the 12". These are all universal fans that will be wired to a switch in the cabin. I am contemplating hardwiring the puller as it won't hurt anything but longevity of the fan to keep it running (fewer switches) I would turn the pushers on only when needed/at idle in traffic


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## Gonzzz (Apr 27, 2010)

Check your emails or inbox me your number buddy :wave:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Johnny- pm sent 

The ups guy has got to love having me on his route.. 









This is the radiator and fans I received yesterday. I had a few people ask how I'm wiring them up..
I'm using a simple 30amp relay. The 16" can draw 10amps @ 12 volts so I'm wiring the fans all to the same relay. Just using an interrupter switch on each power to the fans (except the 16" it'll probably get hard wired and constant power)


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Ok, I decided (and ordered) my IE surge tank and Genesis II 1000cc Injectors! They will be in my hands monday. I have talked to Gonzo and we are working together to bring this build together and happy ending. I am going to use a similar placement as One-Eight GTI for the surge tank. After looking around and trying to come up with a new idea, I couldnt find a spot that suited my setup better than his. I got plenty of new fuel line from Summit and hopefully get my head back soon. In all honesty, once I have the head back I have a full day of work to get everything back together and running. I plan to get with Gonzo at this time to give the ecu a new base flash for the injectors and drive around for awhile to adjust fuel trims. Luckily, Dunsworths has a dyno as well and I will use the dyno for final tweaking. :thumbup:

-MOTIVATION TO GET THIS DONE- I was conversing with my wife about the TT and how I would really like to get an AWD TT. We have been looking for a house and should have one purchased within a few months (if we can find something we like). After we have purchased the house, I was given the go ahead to find an AWD TT that I want for the swap. I have been Craigslistin' for awhile and have come across a good deal or two so I know they are around me. My wifes only stipulation is that the FWD has to be in good running condition before. That way its literally swap blocks and sell the FWD and keep the AWD. I think next spring is a good goal for a 500AWHP TT :facepalm:


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

You have yourself a good wife there Seth. I lucked out with mine also. I've been spending a lot on my car over the years

If you need anymore pics of my surge tank let me know before next weekend as my bumper and core support will be going back on than


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Will do, I am currently trying to decide how I want to set up the PS reservoir. Its not a huge issue though.. just trying to find a nice hidden safe spot. I have a few ideas that im gonna work on this week.

- She hated the money I spent at first, but once I got about halfway through the parts list she didnt care anymore and just "wanted it to run" lmao She really is amazing :laugh:

-Not to mention, I also picked up a 2001 YZ 125 with a seized crankshaft for $100 on craigslist.. Got the motor rebuilt and currently working on the suspension to replaces seals and fluid. She bought **** when I was pulling into the garage.. She has accepted that Im a project person and not happy unless I have something to tinker with


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## glock17 (Oct 18, 2012)

damn man you went through a lot with this car, just read the whole thread. if you lived close by id buy you a :beer: lol. car looks amazing:thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Surge tank, fittings, fuel lines, and injectors are in! I ordered the surge tank from USRT w/ an 044 but I haven't received the 044 yet. I knew the tank was drop shipped from IE but not sure on the pump. Ill be giving them a call to make sure since I already got the injectors. The guys at USRT haven been great and I know everything will work out.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Just because I'm bored at work and this thread/build needs some love. This is my current project I plan on breaking in this weekend. Little brother will be home so this and wrenching on the TT.. I only had 1" copper available locally so I incorporated packing into the tube induce a bit of reflux. That way I still get a bit less "taste" and a higher proof beverage. 

My spring tube benders came in yesterday. It is coiled now. Just gotta get a bucket to fill with water..


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## stevemannn (Apr 17, 2008)

that is a sick bong you got there bro


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Bong? Have you ever seen a bong? That is a pot still my dude 

-it's to get drunk, not high.


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

stevemannn said:


> that is a sick bong you got there bro


 You never seen home brew moon shine setup have you? :laugh:


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

seth_3515 said:


> Bong? Have you ever seen a bong? That is a pot still my dude
> 
> -it's to get drunk, not high.


 Either way u get fu*k up lol!! 
Multiple use :facepalm:


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## Three3Se7en (Jul 2, 2007)

Is there a specific reason for using hose barb fittings over AN? Ease of use or just less fittings to buy?


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Three3Se7en said:


> Is there a specific reason for using hose barb fittings over AN? Ease of use or just less fittings to buy?


 they are part of summits lock tite system since I was using their fuel lines, and yes they are extremely easy to work with


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## Three3Se7en (Jul 2, 2007)

seth_3515 said:


> they are part of summits lock tite system since I was using their fuel lines, and yes they are extremely easy to work with


 Ah I see. I use Summit for my fueling hose and fittings as well. Fast shipping and nice pricing. :heart:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Three3Se7en said:


> Ah I see. I use Summit for my fueling hose and fittings as well. Fast shipping and nice pricing. :heart:


 Exactly! 

-also, my 044 just arrived from FedEx. Might get some time in for pre fitment before going out tonight :thumbup: I knew the USRT guys would take care of everything!


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Built AEB head is torqued down to the block. I am working on getting the surge tank mounted, but I will need a banjofitting to finish up the 044 pump. Everything has gone pretty smooth so far. I hope to have the car finished up this weekend so i can have the fittin ghere and in place before next weekend. Im so excited to finally have her back on the road again.


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## SamS3 (Jun 6, 2011)

Where are you thinking of mounting the surge tank? I have an S3 and have the same tank but unsure where to mount it. I was thinking somewhere in the rear.


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## Three3Se7en (Jul 2, 2007)

Updates! eace:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

All new parts are installed and ready to go. Been through some health issues but finally having everything under control and won't have to part my car for med bills! So everything is in full swing and she should be back on the road by next week


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Medical stuff sucks and is damn expensive, just a couple weeks ago gave birth to my first kidney stone and the bill was around 3500 bucks, freaking rip off:banghead: Glad to hear your back at it:thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Medical stuff sucks and is damn expensive, just a couple weeks ago gave birth to my first kidney stone and the bill was around 3500 bucks, freaking rip off:banghead: Glad to hear your back at it:thumbup:


All I need is to wire in another 30amp relay and get my clamp for the exhaust and it'll be ready to fire up. I really didnt want to part unless absolutely necessary, however, we got through it and now the fun can really begin.


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## Gonzzz (Apr 27, 2010)

hell yeah


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)




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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

I like the location of your surgetank:laugh::thumbup:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

JohnnyAlpaca said:


> hell yeah


x2


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

One-Eight GTI said:


> I like the location of your surgetank:laugh::thumbup:


Haha! It wasn't exactly an original idea of mine  but can't deny the brilliant simplicity of the location and getting it stuffed somewhere


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

The tread on those tires is making me think this TT is gonna go tear up some dirt


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Well I bought the tires before the build got this deep lmao. I planned to make it a DD but that ain't happening.. Once I get some axles the its on time for slicks


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## Gonzzz (Apr 27, 2010)

I would DD it


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

JohnnyAlpaca said:


> I would DD it


As long as its reliable I wouldn't have any problem since my commute to work is only a few miles. If only i knew someone who can tune it well


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

You're going to want to rotate the surge tank 90* or do something like this with the lines internally, otherwise you're going to aerate your fuel when the tank volume drops below the feed/return ports.

http://i.imgur.com/g5AwkTa.jpg


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> You're going to want to rotate the surge tank 90* or do something like this with the lines internally, otherwise you're going to aerate your fuel when the tank volume drops below the feed/return ports.
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/g5AwkTa.jpg


Thanks, didnt think about that at all.. I'm assuming the most efficient setup would be to turn 90* feed tube on bottom, return to tank on top, and rail return in the middle? Get my two feeds as low as possible to reduce aeration?


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Turning the tank would be the easiest way to go. If you know someone who can weld, you could just cut and move the mounting feet over


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

I can weld but turning won't take long


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

My water reservoir and new intercooler variant arrived. Everything looks good, just hav to work my last shift tomorrow night, biopsychology test Wednesday, then this car will be running by the weeks end


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## Gonzzz (Apr 27, 2010)

Updates nao!!!


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Vband clamp should be in tomorrow. Just have to run the new AWIC lines and itll be ready to fire up.


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)




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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Everything is finally in. I spent a few hours before work today finishing things up. Plug in my relay tomorrow and finish 2 grounds (ran out of self tapping screws) and ill fire it up. I am leaving the 830s in for the first part to check for leaks and test drive. Then hopefully reflash on Thursday or Friday so I can take it out for my week off (I work 12 hour shifts Wednesday-Tuesday)


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