# How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

Since most people who are upgrading 1.8t's these days haven't built motors before, I thought I'd throw together some pics of how to install aftermarket rods and new OEM rings on OEM pistons. If you are uncomfortable with anything contained in this post, pay to have professionals do the work, but most people's hesitance to get in there and do the upgrades themselves just stems from a lack of experience, so hopefully these pics will help some of you out. 
First off, this covers installing brand new OEM rings on OEM pistons. I do not file OEM rings, simply install and drop in, but technically you should measure ring gap and adjust accordingly. Secondly, this install covers a freshly honed block. I would NOT reuse OEM rings or install new rings in a block that hasn't been freshly honed. Third, this install does not cover measuring rod bearing tolerances, and this should be done accordingly as well. This is mainly to introduce people to the internals of the 1.8t so you know what you're looking at when you get in there, but in reality this is very general info that applies to all engines. On to the pics.
Here is the aftermarket rod, a 19mm IE rod in this case.








Here is the used OEM pistons, 19mm wrist pin version, still attached to the OEM rod. Note the retaining clip inside the bore for the wrist pin.








This is my tool of choice to remove the wrist pin clip. BE CAREFUL as the wrist pin clip is essentially a spring and will FLY OFF INTO WHO KNOWS WHERE upon removal. I always place the tool in position, then cover the piston with a rag, then apply pressure, so the pin will be trapped in the rag when it shoots out of place.








Said wrist pin clip removed. DO NOT LOSE.








Wrist pin clip removed. Scratches on this area of the piston don't really matter, obvoiusly don't go nuts.








Wrist pin being removed.








Piston and pin seperated. Marks on the pin here are varnish, the motor that these pieces came from ran on non synthetic oil for its life, which will leave the brown stain of varnish everywhere. Motors that run synthetic don't do this.








Relube your wrist pin, insert, and prepare for rod install.








Insert rod.  
















A 10mm socket with a tap from a rubber mallet will force in a stubborn pin (tolerances are tight here).








A little lube preparing for wrist pin clip reinsertion.








Inserting the wrist pin clip can be tricky. Again, cover the clip with a rag so as not to lose it, use force to "compress" the clip so it'll pop into its groove. Once you get the hang of it, it's really simple to do, but the first one will be a PITA if you've never done this before.








Clip in its new home.








Half of the rod and piston assembled.








This is the OEM oil scraper ring set, three pieces.








Two flat rings and one "corrugated" ring, the two flat rings will sandwich the third.








Slide the first ring down over the ring lands (the three grooves around the piston that contain the rings), careful not to scratch the skirts of the piston. The rings have some flexibility but can and will break with too much force, so be careful. Obviously, the ring lands should be cleaned to remove any carbon buildup before installing rings.








Put the scraper ring into the third groove.








Insert the lower flat ring.








And then the upper flat ring








This is the second compression ring.








Notice the orientation.
















First compression ring.
















Work the compression rings into place.
















Now, you're ready to rotate your ring gaps so they are 120* apart, and insert the piston rod into the block. As usual, I'm not responsible for any damage you do as a result of this post. I hope this helps out the community and gets more of you to build your motors while saving a little money and learning how to do it yourself. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by [email protected] at 10:50 AM 5-21-2008_


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## NOLA_VDubber (May 24, 2007)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods ([email protected])*

Great write up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
As a recent first-time rod installer, I can say that it is not that difficult as long as you take your time and have the right tools for the job. I def lost my first circlip, though, but they can be had from the dealer for $0.79 a piece. i wish this was around a couple weeks ago


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_









Move the opening of the clip to the window in the piston.
Otherwise http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## inivid (Aug 25, 2003)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods (NOLA_VDubber)*

just great! now there's going to be a ishtload of noobs with fully assembled rods and pistons, but no idea how the hell to put it in the motor.









i keed, i keed. nice job adam.


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## 87vr6 (Jan 17, 2002)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods ([email protected])*

Keep these DIYs coming!


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## infinityman (Sep 3, 2004)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods (inivid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *inivid* »_just great! now there's going to be a ishtload of noobs with fully assembled rods and pistons, but no idea how the hell to put it in the motor.









i keed, i keed. nice job adam.











like me.
Now someone make a rod bearings + rod cap install!








but seriously. do it por favor.


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## Blu--Pearl (Mar 31, 2008)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods (inivid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *inivid* »_just great! now there's going to be a ishtload of noobs with fully assembled rods and pistons, but no idea how the hell to put it in the motor.









i keed, i keed. nice job adam.










ahhahahhahahahhaha

nice write up adam.


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## themachasy (Jan 28, 2006)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods (Blu--Pearl)*

Wheres part 2? DIY of putting em in








Always love seein my name on the rods.


_Modified by themachasy at 5:48 AM 5-22-2008_


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## AllofurVWRbelong2me (Jul 12, 2004)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods (themachasy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *themachasy* »_Wheres part 2? *DIY of putting em in*









=Ian.

Speaking of which, am I sensing some "How-To Testosterone"








Good ish, D-man. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by AllofurVWRbelong2me at 10:44 PM 5-21-2008_


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## GTI3309 (Apr 11, 2006)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods (themachasy)*

Nice http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I'm tackling this myself in the next few days


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## PhilW (Jan 3, 2006)

Add to FAQ?


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## jc_bb (Sep 27, 2005)

good effort putting these together guys. wish there were more of these in one place!
tip: position ring no's 1 and 2 gaps at opposite sides of the piston and do the same with upper and lower scraper rings.
this will maximise the seal


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods (NOLA_VDubber)*

Good job adam, wanna install a set for me for free and save me money?


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## Volar (Jan 2, 2007)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods (18T_BT)*

im having a hard time getting the wrist pin in the 1st rod i did it slid right in and it was all free moving the other one i did didnt move so freely in the rod is this normal?


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## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods (Volar)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Volar* »_im having a hard time getting the wrist pin in the 1st rod i did it slid right in and it was all free moving the other one i did didnt move so freely in the rod is this normal?

no. the proper way would be to have the pins, pin-fit to the piston/rod. you can check the clearences with a micrometer, and have a machine shop dust them to offer proper/same clearence across each set. don't force them in as mentioned in this diy. they should always be checked. my machine shop charges me 1 hour labor, to pin-fit and balance them. as for the clearences, well....


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods (Volar)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Volar* »_im having a hard time getting the wrist pin in the 1st rod i did it slid right in and it was all free moving the other one i did didnt move so freely in the rod is this normal?

What rods and pistons? If you're reusing OEM pistons and pins like I did, then you don't need to have them balanced or clearanced. If you're using new aftermarket pistons, then again, you don't need them balanced or clearanced as they should be close enough out of the box. The only time you'd be balancing or even weighing them would be if balancing the rotating assembly. The pics from the DIY are from the motor I'm currently using, dyno in sig, over 15K on the bottom end, no problems. Hetzen did have a problem with pins fitting a set of Scat rods, and had to have them machined accordingly. That wasn't needed for these IE's or several other sets I've assembled.


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## Volar (Jan 2, 2007)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods ([email protected])*

same pistons and ie rods for now this is gonna be my temporary motor till i get a 2.0l built but the 1st rod i grabbed the wrist pin slid right in it was tight but still spun freely then the next 3 didn't fit for some reason i don't know if maybe i got a bad batch or something they all have the same weight and all the hole just doesnt seem to be right with me having to knock the wrist pin in the hole then it being hard to move and even take out and im usuing moly lube to do this not doing it dry


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## rodney_dubs (Mar 2, 2008)

Fitting pins is just part of the game. They are machined extremely tight on purpose, that is easily fixable with a quick hone, loose is a whole other story. I've had to fit pins from virtually every manufacturer.


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## bobqzzi (Sep 24, 2003)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods ([email protected])*

Most pin fitment problems with Scat and IE rods are from the holes in the wrist pin bushing not being deburred and sticking up a bit. They are a bit tricky to smooth out without touching parts of the bushing, but can be done.
When installing pins that don't want to go into the piston itself, I suggest mildly heating the piston with a propane torch rather than driving it in.
Nice writeup- how about something on setting the ring gap?


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods (bobqzzi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bobqzzi* »_
Nice writeup- how about something on setting the ring gap?

No, I don't file OEM rings, but Issam just did a writeup on filing rings. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3849749


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## Pisko (Jan 14, 2006)

may I sugest, for those( like me) who is in the learning fase and want to learn more about installing rods, get a copy of the dvd called
`BoxWrench Basic Engine Building`.
They use a v8, but the principle is the same.
It covers every aspect of rebuilding a engine and its only like 29$. A cheap investment to get it right IMO..
https://boxwrench.3dcartstores....html
Great writeup on the rings btw..


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## infinityman (Sep 3, 2004)

*Re: (Pisko)*

If we're using OEM brand new rings on stock pistons, we don't have to worry about ring gap, right? just a quick hone and we're good to go?
For the bottom end, are you guys replacing the main bearings as well?


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## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (infinityman)*

i've never had to file fit the rings on an oem bore/piston/ring combo. but, i always check. depending on power, i open them up a bit too.


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## PolskiHetzen (Apr 25, 2006)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_What rods and pistons? If you're reusing OEM pistons and pins like I did, then you don't need to have them balanced or clearanced. If you're using new aftermarket pistons, then again, you don't need them balanced or clearanced as they should be close enough out of the box. The only time you'd be balancing or even weighing them would be if balancing the rotating assembly. The pics from the DIY are from the motor I'm currently using, dyno in sig, over 15K on the bottom end, no problems. Hetzen did have a problem with pins fitting a set of Scat rods, and had to have them machined accordingly. That wasn't needed for these IE's or several other sets I've assembled. 

Yea I had to take mine to a machine shop. I asked who's fault it was, the rods or the pistons and he gave me a wierd look saying you should always machine them when putting rods and pistons together. It was only 50$, so it's kinda why not.


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## DK_GTI_racer (Oct 4, 2007)

This is great writeup http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif , so why hasen´t it been added to DIY thread?
One thing do, would like to see the last part of this build, putting rods and piston back to place


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## 18Lturbo (Nov 28, 2005)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods ([email protected])*

sick write up! IN! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## themachasy (Jan 28, 2006)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods (18Lturbo)*

Nice one. Came in handy having the in person DIY when you were here lol.


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods (themachasy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *themachasy* »_Nice one. Came in handy having the in person DIY when you were here lol.








http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods ([email protected])*

Awesome Adam, can't wait to see you finish the short block http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_Awesome Adam, can't wait to see you finish the short block http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Unfortunately, it'll be about two weeks. But this is definitely needs the other half added as that's what I'm getting IM's about. lol


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

NICE!! but as someone else mentioned, i too will use the OP assist me.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods ([email protected])*

Its been more than two weeks Adam







Lets see you put these in the motor


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_Its been more than two weeks Adam







Lets see you put these in the motor









I built that motor last summer. lol I have some pics to upload of the 2.0 stroker I just built, will try to have those up later today.


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## JB FTw (Apr 9, 2008)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods ([email protected])*

what about how to remove them and install them?


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## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

inserting a locking c clips things back in I made a tool which some might find handy if they were to replicate.
A turned sleve which had internal taper from the 23mm natural spring diameter of the c clip to the 20mm it needed to squeaze down to (or 19mm if diferent rods) which als had a plastic pusher made with 2 slots down its centre to allow it to push square whilst allowing it to compress as it slid down the narrowing taper in the sleeve.
Added to this I bought a small g-clamp which I chopped off the end of, leaving the screw end intact, then welded the sleeve mentioned before in line so that this becomes a clamp across the piston. The sleeve I should mention had some detail to sit in the recess (spot face) on the pistons to centre it, and some relieving of material to clear the radii on the piston in that area.
end result was clamp the thing on the piston, centred on the spotface, insert the c clip, push it in with the plastic plunger and for the final "shove" it needed to walk across the slight leading chamfer in the piston itself, it goes in with a nice "click"
I wish I could come up with a tool to get them out as easily..


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## jazzpur (Dec 27, 2001)

*Re: (badger5)*

anybody have any info on torquing and plastigaging? the bently has a platigage spec for both radial and axial clearances but give no instructions.
somebody claimed there was a link to a honda post with all this info...anybody know it>?


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## transient_analysis (Jan 28, 2003)

*Re: (jazzpur)*

up for picture host fix


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## themachasy (Jan 28, 2006)

*Re: (transient_analysis)*


_Quote, originally posted by *transient_analysis* »_up for picture host fix










_*UN BAN ADAM*_ 
_*UN BAN ADAM*_ 
_*UN BAN ADAM*_


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

*Re: (themachasy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *themachasy* »_
_*UN BAN ADAM*_ 
_*UN BAN ADAM*_ 
_*UN BAN ADAM*_ 


He got banned???


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## hammerxofxthor (Aug 31, 2008)

*Re: (badger5)*


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (hammerxofxthor)*

Are the pics not working? And no, I'm not banned.


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## Narbie @ CTS Turbo (Oct 3, 2008)

*FV-QR*

pics are working


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## hammerxofxthor (Aug 31, 2008)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Are the pics not working? And no, I'm not banned.









HAH! welcome back.


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## G-radoT (May 20, 2006)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods ([email protected])*

I am having a professional building my 1.8T block that has been bored out to 81.5mm and have ordered pistons accordingly as well as IE rods. The engine builder asked me what I wanted my pistons gapped at








The "book" tolerances for the 1.8T in the Bentley he says are between 15-40. The new rings are measuring at 15. What are the factors that determine optimal ring gap? I assume boost and heat are the primary factors based on RPM. Am I on the right track?
Info you may need:
Turbo: GT2871R, 
Unitronic 630cc BT file, 
Water Meth with spray for intake temp after intercooler
SEM intake manifold
Dual side mount TT intercoolers.
Just leave it alone or gap it back to 20 -25??
thanks for the input.


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## G-radoT (May 20, 2006)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods (G-radoT)*

Anyone have any input as to gapping of rings?


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods (G-radoT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *G-radoT* »_The engine builder asked me what I wanted my pistons gapped at







.

He should know that....
For a GT3082R we gapped our rings to the following specs:

_Quote, originally posted by *GT3082R* »_
Top Ring = 0.02"
2nd Ring = 0.022"
Oil Ring = 0.015"


but for a turbo as small as a GT2871R I would go with:

_Quote, originally posted by *GT2871R* »_
Top Ring = 0.018"
2nd Ring = 0.020"
Oil Ring = 0.015"


That should do the job fine. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## G-radoT (May 20, 2006)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods (Issam Abed)*

Thanks Issam.








So the higher the boost levels, the tighter the top ring is gapped in order to alleviate/ reduce blow-by? 
What effect does the extra heat from high boost levels have on the rings and their fit when they expand due to severe heat?


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## gtimitch (Nov 20, 2006)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods (G-radoT)*

What if you wanted to run, say...29psi with the 35R? or between 25 and 29psi? What do the ring gaps need to be?
WOW -- this is a good thread


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## ethorman (Jun 18, 2006)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods (Issam Abed)*

So for a bigger turbo you use a larger ring gap and for smaller turbos you use a closer ring gap. To me that dosent make sense. The DIY of how to hone and put together your block he used a ring gap of. Top .015 Second .016 and that motor was being built for 400hp. Anyone have any ideas? 
http://jepistons.com/dept/tech...8.pdf


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## BoostinBejan (Apr 13, 2009)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods (ethorman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ethorman* »_So for a bigger turbo you use a larger ring gap and for smaller turbos you use a closer ring gap. To me that dosent make sense. The DIY of how to hone and put together your block he used a ring gap of. Top .015 Second .016 and that motor was being built for 400hp. Anyone have any ideas? 
http://jepistons.com/dept/tech...8.pdf


It does make sense. More power, more pressure, more heat, more reasons for a piston and a ring to expand. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## ethorman (Jun 18, 2006)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods (BoostinBejan)*

Ahh ok I was thinking of it backwards







.....thanks!


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## pileofredparts (Mar 20, 2009)

*Re: How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods ([email protected])*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

You should always check your ring gap, in multiple places of the bore.
Gives you a hint whether you are in round and what i going on before you put them on the pistons.


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## cruzanstx (Oct 10, 2011)

I know this is dead but any pics of part 2 yet? :beer:


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## vtraudt (Mar 1, 2010)

Picture links broken (in my viewer). 
Is it me? 
If others don't see the pictures anymore, can someone fix the links?


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