# "clunk" noise when braking.



## ordonez1970 (May 10, 2008)

i started getting small clunking noise coming from the front of vehicle when i apply the brake pedal, and same noise seemingly from same location on acceleration.
spring that holds brake pads in calipers are in place, inspected all 3 motor mounts and they're ok. the rear one is a PITA.
anyone run into similar problem before?


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## gunnr0991 (Aug 1, 2006)

*Re: "clunk" noise when braking. (ordonez1970)*

Check your wheel lug torque... had it happen to me, forgot to give them a final torque after dropping off jack.... took it for a drive was getting a clunk on braking and then one on accel. turns out the lugs were loose and the wheel was torquing against the bolts.


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## WolfzGangVR6 (Jan 1, 2002)

*Re: "clunk" noise when braking. (gunnr0991)*

i would also look into your control arm bushings. they will give off a clunk on accel and braking. also when entering a driveway while turning. i've had this problem before.


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## ordonez1970 (May 10, 2008)

*Re: "clunk" noise when braking. (WolfzGangVR6)*

i looked into all other possibilities (strut mounts, drive axles) w/ no luck.
btw, i do get a clunk when entering my driveway while turning, i didnt want to blame the control arm bushing cuz it looks like it could get pretty involve but seems like i don't have a choice now.
any input regarding poly bushings? or should i stay with oem?
thanks for the response, very much appreciated.


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## spoolmy1.8 (Jan 17, 2007)

*Re: "clunk" noise when braking. (ordonez1970)*

It's actually very easy.
Get yourself 2 18mm wrenches or a socket and a wrench, a 16mm socket or wrench, a 30mm 12 point socket for a 1/2 inch drive, a torque wrench - 1/2 inch drive - that goes up to 150 ft lbs a good sized breaker bar 1/2 inch drive, and one turque wrench that does 37 ft lbs.
Might as well change the ball joint while you're at it... a front hub puller ($20 at autozone - keep it or return it when you're done), a torque wrench that does 15 ft lbs, a torx (Can't remember size for the ball joint), a prybar and a hammer. 
You pop off your brake caliper and hang it on the spring. Pull off your rotor. pull off the ball joint from the control arm with the 3 bolts (Or if changing the ball joint loosen the nut on the ball joint a few turns - just under the CV joint. Pry at the control arm and smack at the conical connection of the knuckle a few times until it pops off - be careful to not fall into the car when the cone releases. Now push out the shaft from the hub and pull it out. Hang it, and finish removing the ball joint from the knuckle.) Now you have 2 more bolts to pull off on the control arm. 
Viola... pull it out.
Now you need to reverse it to put it back together. The torque for the ball joint to control arm is 15 ft lbs + 1/4 turn. The torque for the driveshaft 12 point nut is 147 ft lbs then back off 1/2 turn then spin wheel 1/2 turn and torque to 37 ft lbs + 60 degrees. 60 degrees is 2 points of the 12 point nut.


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## WolfzGangVR6 (Jan 1, 2002)

*Re: "clunk" noise when braking. (ordonez1970)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ordonez1970* »_i looked into all other possibilities (strut mounts, drive axles) w/ no luck.
btw, i do get a clunk when entering my driveway while turning, i didnt want to blame the control arm bushing cuz it looks like it could get pretty involve but seems like i don't have a choice now.
any input regarding *poly bushings*? or should i stay with oem?
thanks for the response, very much appreciated.

i have a set of poly in my car now and i would actually recommend a set of oem r32 control arm bushing. the poly bushing from prothane wore out in the center where the bolt went through. the metal sleeve wore an oval shape into it (my car is pretty low and i daily it). it did feel great for the first year. i have ridin a mark3 gti with the r32's and a similar suspension set up and they felt very solid.
they aren't that hard to change but it can be a pain to fight them back into the K-frame (poly bushings).










_Modified by WolfzGangVR6 at 9:38 PM 5-27-2008_


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