# Kinetics MKIV VR6 Turbo Install/Dyno



## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

_Modified by igotaprestent4u at 3:57 PM 1-10-2010_


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## 2k1 vr6 (Dec 22, 2001)

*Re: Kinetics MKIV VR6 Turbo Install/Dyno (igotaprestent4u)*

looks good http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
so what did you guys do about the gasket situation?
did you guys do this too? 
















so you just cut it and leave it hanging? it doesn't show what to do next.
also which way did you guys flow the out arrows here in the two fittings? the one he's pointing at and the one a little towards the right?


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## [email protected] (Jul 2, 2006)

*Re: Kinetics MKIV VR6 Turbo Install/Dyno (2k1 vr6)*

You will not get good results with autotech 262 cause you have cam compensation VS MK3 intake runner langht compensation.

On big problem is that not event the companies in US know this .
They still keep saying "92-2004" = same cam .
But its not .
Check my old post with cam specs for mk4


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## Soupuh (Apr 29, 2005)

*Re: Kinetics MKIV VR6 Turbo Install/Dyno ([email protected])*

well, since phatvw made 225 whp on 6 psi and i made 221 on 4.5 psi in a 100 degree room, I'm happy with the cams. my af was nice.

Just installed a manual boost controller, 6-7 psi feels darn good. Need an intercooler badly though.

As zach said, there were some positives and negatives. I pretty much stood around and twiddled my thumbs while igotaprestent4u helped my installer (vrt 20psi on the tex), and it took 2 days about about 13 hours of unrushed labor. 
I'm still upset about Kinetic mesing up my order twice. They also charged me 12 dollars more than indicated and forgot to send a boost controller. 
The drilled tb makes a lot of whistle at idle, but you can't hear it from the car much at all. Audilbly it's not a problem, but it still bothers me that I have a hole in the tb.
all in all i don't regret the purchase, and I'm happy with the C2 tuning except for the drilled tb stuff, but I wish there was some instructions from Kinetic.


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## BubonicCorrado (Jul 24, 2003)

*Re: Kinetics MKIV VR6 Turbo Install/Dyno (Soupuh)*

reality check... These are the reasons your kit is so inexpensive.
Cast parts are never smooth, and the work to make them smooth, i.e. an extrude hone, is very god awful expensive
The fact that the exhaust manifold and gasket do not line up properly, is normal, look at the factory one they're not perfect either. Gasket matching exhaust manifolds is also very expensive.
Most cars come factory with a hole in the throttle body, or a way to adjust it, so you can control idle speed. Drilling the hole will cause no long term problems.
And as far as not having instructions goes, "If you can't figure it out, you probably shouldn't be playing with it." ~ Me
Turbo kit installs are pretty straight forward.
All in all, I don't think you should be the least bit disapointed, with the kit itself, however them sending you the wrong stuff twice, is a lot less than cool. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VR6T 20 PSI (Oct 27, 2003)

*Re: Kinetics MKIV VR6 Turbo Install/Dyno ([email protected])*

foffa give the cam thing a rest you are one of my favorite tools on vortex. shut the **** up no one cares. your so called testing or whatever you call it is full of ****. All and all the car drives like stock and power is very smooth. I was actually surprised that it made that much power with the fact it was only making 4.5 lbs and how hot it was. It is also scary how quiet the car is considering i am used to open dump waste gate and 3 inch catback. As for the manifold not matching the gaskets it is horriable and there is no reason for it it was so bad that it made the stock ones seem like they match up good. Directions are always nice but i guess when you are a genius they only confuse you.


_Modified by VR6T 20 PSI at 12:11 AM 7-3-2006_


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## VR6T 20 PSI (Oct 27, 2003)

*Re: Kinetics MKIV VR6 Turbo Install/Dyno (2k1 vr6)*

after you cut it just install it right back on minus the part you cut off. The point in the valves is so that boost does not enter the emission ****.blow on one end and make it so that the side that will not let you blow through it is facing the manifold. i cant remebur which way the arrow went off the top of my head.


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## Soupuh (Apr 29, 2005)

just took my brother for a run at 6 psi, he thinks it's faster than his ls2 trailblazer ss, so... its running pretty well. All in all I'm happy.


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## vw-jeff (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: (Soupuh)*

You ladys look so hot working on that car
















The car ran really well, you need a TBE for it before I would buy an intercooler. That stock exhaust is a no no.



_Modified by vw-jeff at 6:53 PM 7-2-2006_


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## vw-jeff (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: Kinetics MKIV VR6 Turbo Install/Dyno ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_You will not get good results with autotech 262 cause you have cam compensation VS MK3 intake runner langht compensation.

On big problem is that not event the companies in US know this .
They still keep saying "92-2004" = same cam .
But its not .
Check my old post with cam specs for mk4

OMG shut the **** up, they are the same a 12v is a 12v. All 12v's have the same part #'s in ETKA........ toolbag.


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## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: Kinetics MKIV VR6 Turbo Install/Dyno ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_You will not get good results with autotech 262 cause you have cam compensation VS MK3 intake runner langht compensation.




stop talking


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## Soupuh (Apr 29, 2005)

*Re: (vw-jeff)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vw-jeff* »_
The car ran really well, you need a TBE for it before I would buy an intercooler. That stock exhaust is a no no.

_Modified by vw-jeff at 6:53 PM 7-2-2006_

I thought brad made it clear to me I needed an intercooler first?
Exhaust won't drop egt's much will it?


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## Soupuh (Apr 29, 2005)

*Re: Kinetics MKIV VR6 Turbo Install/Dyno (igotaprestent4u)*

http://media.putfile.com/davids-dyno
i'll scan up all three dynosheets soon. middle run was the best


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## foffa2002 (Jan 14, 2003)

*Re: Kinetics MKIV VR6 Turbo Install/Dyno (VR6T 20 PSI)*

Put your 02 back and stop drilling TB´s 
get some real tuning








a 262/262 will not work the same as a OEM 245/240 10,7/10,2mm lift .
The 260/260 10,7mm that we tried before the 284/260 10,85/10,6mm
had bad response and uneven egt´s


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## VR6T 20 PSI (Oct 27, 2003)

*Re: Kinetics MKIV VR6 Turbo Install/Dyno (foffa2002)*

Once again shut the hell up.... Maybe over in sweden its cool to be a complete ***** with a VR5 but here it is just annoying....Also he still has his O2 fairy its a mk4. An exhaust will lower egt's for sure I thought you were planning on getting an exhaust anyway.....


_Modified by VR6T 20 PSI at 3:57 PM 7-3-2006_


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## Soupuh (Apr 29, 2005)

*Re: Kinetics MKIV VR6 Turbo Install/Dyno (VR6T 20 PSI)*

I definitely am, but I thought i was supposed to get a fmic first, assuming I can only buy one at a time. I turned the boost back down this morning to 5.5... don't want to push it too much right now.
21.3 mpg on my first tank... driven hard


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## vw-jeff (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: Kinetics MKIV VR6 Turbo Install/Dyno (Soupuh)*

If there is less restriction on the turbo the egt's should be lower.


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## 01VRSIXER (Mar 31, 2004)

*Re: Kinetics MKIV VR6 Turbo Install/Dyno (vw-jeff)*









Ok in this picture there is a line sitting on the raintray by the base of the wiper blade. I know the line coming out at a 90 degree angle goes back to the intake manifold, but where does the other end go because it came out of the stock plastic intake tube?


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## Soupuh (Apr 29, 2005)

I just checked to be sure:
There's an opaque or clear T splitter that came in the kit. it goes into the line you asked about, and then one end of it goes into the diverter valve and the other goes down into the top of the wastegate. 
In my case, one line goes into my boosty controller, and then from the boost controller into the wastegate.

hope that helps!


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## 01VRSIXER (Mar 31, 2004)

*Re: (Soupuh)*

Awesome, thanks. Im going to be running a boost controller also. How does the car feel with the boost up closer to 6psi?


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## Soupuh (Apr 29, 2005)

i noticed a lot more noise - DV and spool it seemed.
at 7 psi it felt a lot lot faster and stronger than at 4.5 psi. 3rd gear pulls sooooo hard.
However, I don't know if this is normal, but I notice it feels like it pulls a lot hard from 3.5-4.5 than it does the rest of the way... i realize the turbo spooling makes it feel more powerful because it isn't linear, but it still feels almost like it makes more power lower... ofcourse, the dyno sheets tell a different story








btw- I think I actually have a 4.5 psi spring.. I had called rippinralf and requested one but he said i didn't need it... but since everyone else seems to make 6 and i made 4.5 on just the WG, I assume he did it anyway.


_Modified by Soupuh at 8:30 PM 7-3-2006_


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## 01VRSIXER (Mar 31, 2004)

*Re: (Soupuh)*

Without an intercooler will 7psi be ok for extended periods?


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## 01VRSIXER (Mar 31, 2004)

*Re: (01VRSIXER)*

Another question...how long did it take to get to you? They said mine shipped friday the 30th.


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## BoiseMK1GTI (Jan 28, 2004)

*Re: (01VRSIXER)*

When I first put my kit in, I didn't have my boost gauge in because I hadn't recieved my boost controller yet. Ran for about 2 days like that before I finally put my gauge in. Once I did, I only saw 4.5psi as well. Turned it up to 9







and been running it like that ever since. Runs great too, TONS of power, haha.


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## Soupuh (Apr 29, 2005)

*Re: (01VRSIXER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01VRSIXER* »_Another question...how long did it take to get to you? They said mine shipped friday the 30th.

well, if you count when i ordered it... 3 weeks. but actual shipping was about 6 days http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

also, 9 psi... I'm a little afraid of that... I was pulling 6 degrees of timing at 4.5 psi, I think 6-7 is enough for now. Maybe higher if I go to the track before an IC.


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## 01VRSIXER (Mar 31, 2004)

*Re: (Soupuh)*

Whats the deal with sending away the ECU. Kinetic hasnt answered my email because I wanted to send it away before I got the kit so by the time it arrived I would be all ready to go. Where do we send it? Do they need a receipt or some proof of purchase?


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## Soupuh (Apr 29, 2005)

*Re: (01VRSIXER)*

Clay told me he couldnt disclose the location of Jeffrey Atwood until my kit has arrived, and that the mailing address was in the kit. I eventually called Mark and he told me.


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## [email protected] (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (Soupuh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Soupuh* »_
at 7 psi it felt a lot lot faster and stronger than at 4.5 psi. 3rd gear pulls sooooo hard.


It runs REALLY rich at 4.5psi so 7psi prob leans it out a little bit and makes more power than a 2.5psi increase normally woulld.


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## Soupuh (Apr 29, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*

I wish I could take it up more....


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## BoiseMK1GTI (Jan 28, 2004)

*Re: (Soupuh)*

DO IT!!! I will be doing 11psi stock compression next week when I put my FMIC on.







Do I hear 12's knocking??


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## Soupuh (Apr 29, 2005)

*Re: (BoiseMK1GTI)*

Just talked to Shawn at Kinetic for like 1/2 hour about the car... really helpful guy!
All in all I'm really loving this kit! One of my friends who has a 10 second monte carlo drag car rode in it and said it definitely felt like a 13 second car at 6.5 psi


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## vw-jeff (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: (BoiseMK1GTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BoiseMK1GTI* »_DO IT!!! I will be doing 11psi stock compression next week when I put my FMIC on.







Do I hear 12's knocking??
You mean your pistons will be knocking


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## lenko62 (Sep 29, 2001)

i ran 13lbs on stock compression, with a FMIC. TURN IT UP....they make new parts....


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## MKII16v (Oct 23, 1999)

*Re: (lenko62)*

Water Injection for the win.


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## vw-jeff (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: (lenko62)*


_Quote, originally posted by *lenko62* »_i ran 13lbs on stock compression, with a FMIC. TURN IT UP....they make new parts....
For like 2 seconds.... Sorry Nick that doesn't count








13 psi on stock compression, better run race gas, or alky. 
Dude, just don't do it


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## Soupuh (Apr 29, 2005)

*Re: (vw-jeff)*

when I get a fmic and exhaust, compression is the limiting factor right? What can I take it to then? 
I realize a lower comp. HG is cheap, but I'm still curious


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## 01VRSIXER (Mar 31, 2004)

*Re: (Soupuh)*

Whats the limiting factor without an intercooler? Intake temps too hot?


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## Soupuh (Apr 29, 2005)

*Re: (01VRSIXER)*

I assume so. I was pulling 6 degrees of timing at 4.5 psi on the highway WOT, so I imagine at 6-7 psi it's really getting hot


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## VR6T 20 PSI (Oct 27, 2003)

*Re: (Soupuh)*

you can run 15psi without a headgasket assuming you have a good intercooler and good tune....


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## Jefnes3 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: (01VRSIXER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01VRSIXER* »_Whats the limiting factor without an intercooler? Intake temps too hot?


The ~wonderful







10.5:1 stock compression.
This is a HUGE limiting factor.
My 1st upgrade would be a spacer HG before an IC.
9:1 spacer.
Use Lemiwinks to adjust timing based on knock retard data.

-Jeff


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## vw-jeff (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: (VR6T 20 PSI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VR6T 20 PSI* »_you can run 15psi without a headgasket assuming you have a good intercooler and good tune....









Yeah I also heard you could make 485 whp with stock bottom end, reliably


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## BoiseMK1GTI (Jan 28, 2004)

*Re: (vw-jeff)*

I will be limited to about 11psi because of my injectors. I don't want to go higher than 11 on stock compression either, even if I get 42# injectors and sowftware. I think with a 9:1 HG, I will go no higher than about 15-16psi as well.


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## Kougaiji (Apr 8, 2006)

That wastegate placement is a http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif in my opinion, but it was inexpensive, after all, so you can't expect state of the art. But congrats, you got it up and running successfully http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: (Kougaiji)*

Hey guys, just saw this thread. Good install pics! Glad to see another kit up and running.
I gotta say "duh" about trying to get the DP in with the manifold in the way though







Another way to get the DP in is to drop the suspension sub-frame and go through the bottom. But that only works if you have access to a lift.
My kit tops out at 5PSI. I haven't tried using a boost controller or anything like that. When the crew at Kinetic dyno'd my car they said more than 5PSI didn't really do much for the power because the ECU would just pull timing but that was on 91 octane fuel.
Did you get an oil temp guage in there?


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## Soupuh (Apr 29, 2005)

*Re: (phatvw)*

I definitely feel a major difference between 4.5 and 7.
I have an oil temp gauge, but I have to find soemne smart enough to wire a 42DD gauge in


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## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (Soupuh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Soupuh* »_I definitely feel a major difference between 4.5 and 7.
I have an oil temp gauge, but I have to find soemne smart enough to wire a 42DD gauge in









come on up and ill do it


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## VR6T 20 PSI (Oct 27, 2003)

*Re: (vw-jeff)*

You can for a very long time maybe you should try it some time..... with stock internals.


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## VR6T 20 PSI (Oct 27, 2003)

*Re: (Soupuh)*

Not sure what that means.... hope it was not directed at me.....


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## Soupuh (Apr 29, 2005)

*Re: (VR6T 20 PSI)*

i do beleive it was








I tightened the fittings on the oil pan and the leak seemed to stop, but I'd still like to put some sort of sealer in there and shorten the line from the turbo that is touching the downpipe at sometime. no hurry


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## VR6T 20 PSI (Oct 27, 2003)

*Re: (Soupuh)*

I do believe you better be joking..
it still will touch the down pipe or almost touch it......


_Modified by VR6T 20 PSI at 6:26 PM 7-8-2006_


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## 01VRSIXER (Mar 31, 2004)

*Re: (VR6T 20 PSI)*

Any reason I can't run the 42DD relocation kit off the empty hole on the oil filter housing and then run a oil pressure guage and the oil feed line off of the relocation piece?


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: (01VRSIXER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01VRSIXER* »_Any reason I can't run the 42DD relocation kit off the empty hole on the oil filter housing and then run a oil pressure guage and the oil feed line off of the relocation piece?

I still think its better to use one hole for the oil feed line, and the other hole for the OEM+VDO sensor.


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: (phatvw)*

Also what are you guys on abotu the DP touching something?
In my case we had to zip-tie the shifter cables out of the way so they wouldn't bump the dump tube.
Are you guys talking about the oil drain tube from the turbo? Did you tap your existing oil pan, or did you get a new one from Kinetic?


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## Soupuh (Apr 29, 2005)

*Re: (phatvw)*

we tapped the pan. The oil line from the turbo is touching the DP, but thats because of where the oil pan was tapped. 
The shifter cables touching the dump tube... did that make any sort of noise? I have a rattling under load, mostly uphill, that I can't figure out.
Where the oil pan was tapped is leaking ever so slightly.. like... 10 drops a week. but it's a leak. 
Does your car have a display for mileage? Are you going to do anything about the numbers being wrong now? It's bugging me.


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: (Soupuh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Soupuh* »_we tapped the pan. The oil line from the turbo is touching the DP, but thats because of where the oil pan was tapped. 
The shifter cables touching the dump tube... did that make any sort of noise? I have a rattling under load, mostly uphill, that I can't figure out.
Where the oil pan was tapped is leaking ever so slightly.. like... 10 drops a week. but it's a leak. 
Does your car have a display for mileage? Are you going to do anything about the numbers being wrong now? It's bugging me.

Rattling could be those cables. DId you replace the intake manifold shifter rod as well?
The MFA fuel consumption display will be incorrect beacuse of the new injectors. The OEM programming goes off the OEM fuel maps and injector duty cycles. The injectors now have a totally different duty cyle so the math doesn't add up. There is one tweak in vag-com you can make, but for me its nowhere near what it should be. I have set it so that the MFA MPG is apporx double the actual display. So basically it says 40MPG all the time, but I get 20MPG when I check it at the pump.

_Quote, originally posted by *openobd.org:* »_
Controller adjustment
STG 17 (combination instrument) select
STG adjustment - > function 10
- > channel 03 (consumption gauge)
The base value is 100 now can it the whole in 5% steps adjust, the respective
maximum values is 85 and/or. 125 .




_Modified by phatvw at 4:48 PM 7-8-2006_


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## 01VRSIXER (Mar 31, 2004)

*Re: (phatvw)*

What do you do with the vaccum line and the wiring harness that went in the stock plastic intake tube? I was starting to take my car apart today and I know the plastic piece gets replaced.


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: (01VRSIXER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01VRSIXER* »_What do you do with the vaccum line and the wiring harness that went in the stock plastic intake tube? I was starting to take my car apart today and I know the plastic piece gets replaced. 

The wiring harness is for the heater element for the crankcase ventilation/re-circulation. You can just leave that wiring harness disconnected or use it for 12v power for anything you need in the engine bay. I think its on a 10amp circuit with a couple other things...
Any unused vacuum lines should be sealed or re-used for the wastegate or diverter valve.


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## Soupuh (Apr 29, 2005)

I went ahead and ordered shifter rod bushings from gruvenparts... I hope that fixes it!


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## 01VRSIXER (Mar 31, 2004)

*Re: (phatvw)*

Could I run my boost guage off the unused vacuum line or is there a specific spot I should tap into for the guage?


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## Volkswagen2NR (Nov 17, 2003)

*Re: (01VRSIXER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01VRSIXER* »_Could I run my boost guage off the unused vacuum line or is there a specific spot I should tap into for the guage?

you can tap in where ever vacuum is


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## 01VRSIXER (Mar 31, 2004)

What size hole would be suitable to drill in the TB?


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## VR6T 20 PSI (Oct 27, 2003)

*Re: (01VRSIXER)*

1\4


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## Soupuh (Apr 29, 2005)

*Re: (VR6T 20 PSI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VR6T 20 PSI* »_1\4

technically, we used a 15/64


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: (Soupuh)*

Ought to use 6mm - the kit being Canadian and all...


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## Soupuh (Apr 29, 2005)

*Re: (phatvw)*

the tuning that requires the tb to be drilled is ~american


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: (Soupuh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Soupuh* »_the tuning that requires the tb to be drilled is ~american


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## rykiop (Oct 11, 2005)

With a liquid to air intercooler stock bottom end and a 9:1 head gasket what would be the optimal safe psi


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## 01VRSIXER (Mar 31, 2004)

Did you guys weld the fitting to the oil pan?


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## VR6T 20 PSI (Oct 27, 2003)

*Re: (01VRSIXER)*

no the fitting was not welded. But in my opinion i would get an aluminium fitting and have that welded to the pan there design will always leak.


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## nubVR (Apr 25, 2004)

*Re: (VR6T 20 PSI)*

i just welded mine up today, didnt even wanna mess with there fitting....ill try and get some pics up of it tomorrow....


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## nubVR (Apr 25, 2004)

when you guys put the manifold on....did you run into any problems with the lower studs??? I had to cut about 3/8" off to make clearance for the nuts to fit on, and havin fat hands sucks!


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## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (nubVR)*

they were tough, but they fit. Have someone pull up on the manifold to make it easier.


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## 2k1 vr6 (Dec 22, 2001)

*Re: (igotaprestent4u)*


_Quote, originally posted by *igotaprestent4u* »_they were tough, but they fit. Have someone pull up on the manifold to make it easier.

yup, it's best if you have a friend. you can put the top four first but make the nut go in a couple threads then lift up on the manifold so that the bottom kicks out. alot of patients and a little open wrench will do the trick. you'll be turning that nut a couple mm at a time


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## Soupuh (Apr 29, 2005)

*Re: (nubVR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nubVR* »_i just welded mine up today, didnt even wanna mess with there fitting....ill try and get some pics up of it tomorrow....

mine's leaking. good idea.


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## 01VRSIXER (Mar 31, 2004)

*Re: (Soupuh)*

Finished up my install today. It's idling around 1100 rpm's and the throttle hovers for a few seconds after you push in the clutch between shifts, I'll have to look into those. Other wise this thing rips.
Also,Is it possible to hook up the DV backwards?


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: (01VRSIXER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01VRSIXER* »_Finished up my install today. It's idling around 1100 rpm's and the throttle hovers for a few seconds after you push in the clutch between shifts, I'll have to look into those. Other wise this thing rips.
Also,Is it possible to hook up the DV backwards?

Try doing the throttle body alignment in VAG-COM
Also, it takes a couple warm-up/cool-down cycles for the ECU to relearn maps and stuff.


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## [email protected] (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (01VRSIXER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01VRSIXER* »_
Also,Is it possible to hook up the DV backwards?

Yes. Mine is backwards. I've tried it the other way. Doesn't make much of a difference. Its louder backwards i think. The way my vaccum line is routed to it, its easier to mount it backwards. Thats the only reason I do it.


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## .dented vento (Jul 14, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*

eric, are you running the kinetic kit or just c2 software? your numbers look good.


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## [email protected] (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (.dented vento)*

c2 42lb chip, 4" MAF, ATP Manifold, SC61 turbo. I'm probably going to dyno on race gas soon, now that I fixed my intake leak.


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## 01VRSIXER (Mar 31, 2004)

Is there supposed to be a gasket from the turbo to the downpipe, because I didn't one with the kit?


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## MiamiVr6T (Jul 24, 2004)

*Re: (01VRSIXER)*

yes sir


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## 01VRSIXER (Mar 31, 2004)

*Re: (MiamiVr6T)*

joy, i'll have to order one up.


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## nubVR (Apr 25, 2004)

*Re: (01VRSIXER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01VRSIXER* »_Is there supposed to be a gasket from the turbo to the downpipe, because I didn't one with the kit?

Thats really funny.....my kit didnt have one either, i should be up and runnin on tuesday....havnt really had much time to work on it


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## 01VRSIXER (Mar 31, 2004)

*Re: (nubVR)*

I did the install by myself. Started friday around 6pm and was up and running by saturday at 6pm. Right now I'm running an open downpipe and it sounds really mean.


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## 01VRSIXER (Mar 31, 2004)

*Re: (nubVR)*

did they send you the correct silicone couplers?
I ordered black but recieved blue.


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## L8 APEKS (Feb 2, 2006)

*Re: (vw-jeff)*


_Quote »_However, I don't know if this is normal, but I notice it feels like it pulls a lot hard from 3.5-4.5 than it does the rest of the way...

It's pulling out timing to save you from blowing up your pistons. Get the intercooler before you run the boost that high. If you start to feel it "pull out power," turn the boost down. An intercooler is cheaper than a new shortblock.








Very nice...if you don't mind my asking, how much time did it take to install the kit and get it driveable?
I just picked up a VR6 Corrado (1990 with a swap) and I am planning on the same kit. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Soupuh (Apr 29, 2005)

*Re: (01VRSIXER)*

yea, i asked for black. i got over it though. the kit runs well, every problem i've had so far after the install was error on my end


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## Soupuh (Apr 29, 2005)

*Re: (nubVR)*

finally solved the rattling i felt/heard... shawn said it was my intake tube touching my master cylinder... so i loosened the bolts and moved it as far away as possibe, and no dice. finally, i took the motor mount bolt out that the intake tube is bolted onto, put the bolt back in the hole, jammed the support for the intake tube to the side of the bolt that is closeer to the battery, and tightneed it down. the lip of the bolt and the wahser holds it in place, and my vibration is 100% gone.
I know atleast one other mk4 with this kit had that problem, hope that helps soemone else. I'm gonna get a big washer to put in there soon to make sure it never comes out, but it feels really sturdy as is.


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: (Soupuh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Soupuh* »_finally solved the rattling i felt/heard... shawn said it was my intake tube touching my master cylinder... so i loosened the bolts and moved it as far away as possibe, and no dice. finally, i took the motor mount bolt out that the intake tube is bolted onto, put the bolt back in the hole, jammed the support for the intake tube to the side of the bolt that is closeer to the battery, and tightneed it down. the lip of the bolt and the wahser holds it in place, and my vibration is 100% gone.
I know atleast one other mk4 with this kit had that problem, hope that helps soemone else. I'm gonna get a big washer to put in there soon to make sure it never comes out, but it feels really sturdy as is.









Oh crap guys, I'm sorry. I had this exact problem too and forgot to post the solution. The problem is the age of your motor mounts and how the motor sits. Its almost impossible to get exact fitment of that tube without some sort of articulating joint.
So what we did was take a piece of 1/8" or 1/4" galvanized steel about 2" long and 3/4" wide. Drilled a hole through one end so it could bolt directly to the motor mount, and then tac-welded a big bolt onto the other end and fastened it with a nut to the tab attached to the tube. Rotate the joint until you get proper fitment. Watch the speedo cable when you do this.
Can you visualize that? I'll post the pic later tonight.
I asked Shawn to include a piece like this in the kits to give more installation freedom but I guess he thought it wouldn't be a problem. I guess you can bend the tab so that it works too, but its hard to get it just right.



_Modified by phatvw at 2:33 PM 7-17-2006_


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## Soupuh (Apr 29, 2005)

yea i'm way not strong enough to bend the tube without removing the whole thing. I was thinking of maybe just having someone drill the hole in the tab a little bit bigger so that you can push the tube a little farther back towards the turbo, and then have them either tighten the bolt way hard so that it doenst slide, or weld some metal inside the hole where it's closer to the turbo, effectivly moving the mount bolt hole back another 5 mm or so...
I can picture what you did, I might do that later on, but for now my solution works for me. I don't mind "ugly"


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: (Soupuh)*

Here is the bracket I spoke of:


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## 01VRSIXER (Mar 31, 2004)

I have a question about my throttle body. I did the adaptation, but say I'm cruising at 2k RPM I'll push the clutch on and let of the gas but the RPM's stick at 2k and it just hovers.


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: (01VRSIXER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01VRSIXER* »_I have a question about my throttle body. I did the adaptation, but say I'm cruising at 2k RPM I'll push the clutch on and let of the gas but the RPM's stick at 2k and it just hovers.

Mine hovers for a split second more than OEM. Like if I do a hard shift and press the clutch and lift off the gas at the exact same time, the RPM's jump up before dropping back down. I think its just the averaging of the throttle pedal position going on in the software. I think there is a parameter you can change to make it more sensitive, but then your part-throttle response will be weird. Its a trade-off with the crappy Bosch control system. Wish we had the new Bosch stuff in the MkV or just plain cable throttle like in the MkIII


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## 01VRSIXER (Mar 31, 2004)

*Re: (phatvw)*

I never gapped my spark plugs that came with the kit and I just read that they should be gapped to .024-.026. Is there a real difference to be had?


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## Jefnes3 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: (01VRSIXER)*

at ~6psi boost not much.
typically you have mild to severe misfiring if the the plug gap
is too wide. (trust me you'll know when it happens)

-Jeff


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## 01VRSIXER (Mar 31, 2004)

*Re: (Jefnes3)*

Anyone having problems on cold starts? I just went out to my car it started right up then died without even puttering.


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## Soupuh (Apr 29, 2005)

*Re: (01VRSIXER)*

yes. one in three cold starts it sorta dies. the first 10 seconds can be rough, but if i tap the throttle, it smooths out after 10 seconds and is fine. this doesn't happen every time, and it doesnt really bother me because i can just touch the gas a bit and it's fine, but it was embarrassing at WF, leaving the kinetic booth and my car dying right after i turned the key.


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## 01VRSIXER (Mar 31, 2004)

*Re: (Soupuh)*

Yeah it idles real rough for a bit then smoothes right out. Also how is your fitment with the u-shaped pipe where it meets the throttle body? Mine is way off and the silicone coupler is barely on the throttle body and barely on the pipe from the turbo because of the odd angle i had to attach it at.


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## Soupuh (Apr 29, 2005)

mine fits fine. sounds like you just need to clock the turbo a few degrees front or back


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## 01VRSIXER (Mar 31, 2004)

*Re: (Soupuh)*

I'll give that a try tommorow and see how it works.


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: (Soupuh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Soupuh* »_yes. one in three cold starts it sorta dies. the first 10 seconds can be rough, but if i tap the throttle, it smooths out after 10 seconds and is fine. this doesn't happen every time, and it doesnt really bother me because i can just touch the gas a bit and it's fine, but it was embarrassing at WF, leaving the kinetic booth and my car dying right after i turned the key.

I have the same issues. Once the secondary air injection pump switches off, the idle is smooth as butter. I am convinced all of this is because of the drilled throttle body.
I'm trying to build a throttle-body bypass for my car to improve the idling situation. I am looking for a very specific rubber hose: A 1" or 25mm ID flex hose with a vacuum nipple coming out the side so it acts as a "T". I'll use this to replace the little hose going between the DV, and the 180° steel tube. It would look like the hose in the picture below except without all the bends and a bit larger. (The pictured hose is only 20mm ID) Just a straight section about 2" long. I hope to get a smooth idle without a drilled TB this way.
I was thinking of hitting the junkyard and looking through some old turbo cars to see what I can scavenge. Anybody got some better ideas?


















_Modified by phatvw at 10:48 PM 7-23-2006_


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: (phatvw)*

Jeff Atwood hinted that upping the "idle torque additive offset" to +127 using the lemmiwinks tool, should smooth out idle. My understanding is that you're increasing the engine load without affecting RPM. Not sure how it works, but my idle seems to be smoother while SAI is on after adjusting this. In think if you sit at stoplights a lot, your fuel economy might go down, but probably not noticeable.
Download lemmiwinks and try it: http://www.ecodetuning.com/revo/Lemmiwinks.exe
BTW Jeff also hinted that if you up the boost with intercooler/HG spacer on the Kinetic stage 1 kit, you can also use Lemmiwinks to tune it without having to get a new chip. I think you need to adjust the "Ignition timing offset" such that the ECU apportions a 0.75-4° retard during a WOT run. Just set the timing back a few degrees, and then log the ignition timing in VAG-COM and keep advancing 0.75° at a time until you get into the 0.75-4° target retard range.



_Modified by phatvw at 9:02 PM 7-24-2006_


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## 01VRSIXER (Mar 31, 2004)

*Re: (phatvw)*

In order to use lemmiwinks you need the serial cable correct?


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: (01VRSIXER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01VRSIXER* »_In order to use lemmiwinks you need the serial cable correct?

I bought my USB cable from "apha-bid" on ebay. Only cost $20 or so and works great with the old vag-com/lemmiwinks etc. You need to install a USB->serial driver for windows. Search ebay and there is a link to the driver download.


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## RedDevil (Sep 21, 2001)

*Re: Kinetics MKIV VR6 Turbo Install/Dyno (01VRSIXER)*

Any updates????


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## herbehop (May 4, 2004)

*Re: (01VRSIXER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01VRSIXER* »_In order to use lemmiwinks you need the serial cable correct?

Nope, 
If you install a virtual port driver it works just fine. The driver is available for download from ross-tech.


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