# Big turbo build- take two



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

*Mod list:*

*Suspension*
KW Variant 3 coilovers
H&R front & rear sway bars
034 track density front strut mounts
Defcon front control arm inserts
PowerFlex front control arm bushings
MadMax lower rear multi-link
Kmac upper rear multi-link

*Brakes*
Hawk HP+ pads
Slotted rotors
ATE SuperBlue Fluid
Stainless lines

*Drivetrain*
Front Raxles
Spec billet steel 13 lbs. flywheel
Clutchnet red pressure plate
Clutchnet unsprung kevlar pucked disc
BFI stage 2 motor mount set
Powerflex polyurethane steering rack bushings
Diesel Geek Sigma 6 short shifter
B&M short shifter
Force Fed Engineering metal shift mount bushings

*Interior*
Hertz Hi-Energy 165K component speakers
Sundown Audio SD-10-D2
Audison LS 500.2
JL Audio 250/1
Kicker EQ
Belkin A2DP input
Apple iPod input
iPod touch 32gb
Modshack gadgeTT
ProSport premium: oil pressure, air/fuel & boost gauges
OSIR shift ring light
Euro headlight switch

*Fueling*
Eurodyne Maestro software
Wideband AWP conversion w/ VVT module
V8 S4 MAF
Injector Dynamics ID1000's
Aeromotive Adj. FPR
Fuelab 41402 pump
OBX fuel rail -6AN
Custom FFE under hood surge tank
Fragola fittings & braided lines
2.0T FSI coilpacks & NGK 7 irridium plugs (BKRE7EIX, Stock #2667)

*Motor internals*
IE Rods - 20mm pins/ACL bearings
JE Pistons - 81mm/8.5:1 CR
Eurospec main studs
ARP head studs
AEB head
Ferrea valves, springs, retainers

*Forced induction*
Precision 5857 - DBB/4" inlet/v-bands
Precision 650hp intercooler core
MadMax Evo DV
Tial MVS
OBX intake manifold
70mm throttle body
Boost Valve dual stage boost controller
Magnaflow stragiht through muffler
EuroJet 4" exhaust tip
Force Fed Engineering turbo kit:
-4" turbo inlet pipe
-2.5" intercooler piping
-Tubular exhaust manifold
-3" turbo back exhaust

*Exterior*
Verdict Motorsports antenna delete
Headlight reflector delete
smoked turn signals
badgeless 5 bar grille
shaved front bumper

Last night's progress- from empty engine bay to this in about 2 hours thanks to Greg & Vince:












Tonight:


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## bklnstunt718 (May 30, 2007)

i wanna come by asap! sit on a chair like a little kid... AND WATCH!!!!


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Haha Jaymo you know where to find me man! Not to worry we got the majority of the install on video but last nights work it ran out of space somewhere and I didn't notice.

I'll get a lot more photos up here this weekend of the work leading up to this.


*Hey anybody mind helping me out? I cannot for the life of me remember which knock sensor goes on which side??*


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## 631 Corrado (Jan 14, 2003)

getttin paid.... getting paid.


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## Tempes_TT (Oct 24, 2010)

Yeeeah buddy! So excited to see some progress from you man! 

ps. what short shifter kit/shift cable end links do you have?

opcorn:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Thanks man!

I have:

Diesel Geek stigma 6 under the hood (comes with the cable ends)
Force Fed bushings on the mount
B&M short shifter (shift rod side)

It's super notchy and short


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## Vdub 2.0 (Jan 8, 2008)

:thumbup: looks great, what are your hp goals?


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

The teaser pics look a lot better on a computer:laugh:. Its about time:thumbup:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Hp goals-- I wanna go fast. Realisticly I want 450fwhp pump and 550fwhp e85. I've never dyno'd AWD so I don't know those numbers yet. Last year I made 410fwhp with a small port head, bad tune and pump gas.

Time to go finish this mechanically speaking. Eurodyne support is trying to help me out reading my ECU but all efforts on my part keep failing. I hate this cars communication system- I even ran a wire straight from the ECU to my OBD2 port and zero luck.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Good luck Doug. Keep us updated.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Well finishing off today all the mechanics are together. Due to the new intake manifold putting the TB in a different location than stock I'll need new piping so I decided to change it up entirely. Going to change to a passenger side throttle body I'm pretty sure. Will mean shorter piping and less heat soak in comparison to the last setup.

Motors all together... missing IC piping and a catch can and obviously wiring:










Cars on the ground:











Need to order some items for the fuel system. I picked up an adjustable regulator but I'm going to return all that garbage- keeping it stock with the RMR FPR drop in to -6an.

Also the ongoing saga of being unable to flash my car continues. I'm going to see if a dealer can bench flash it just to get me up and running then I can troubleshoot from there.


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

hmmm, curious how this leads to less heat soak...please explain


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

jwalker1.8 said:


> hmmm, curious how this leads to less heat soak...please explain


My old IC piping setup literally ran from the turbo to under the exhaust manifold and wrapped around the passenger side of my car. The new idea I have for a setup won't run under the exhaust manifold and will be maybe 2 feet shorter.

Old setup:


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

yes, old setup was recipe for heat...


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

New part for the day. I don't want to deal with an adjustable FPR.










Going out to install this and try to figure the ECU communication situation out-- total nightmare. About to buy a TT with a stock wideband :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:


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## 631 Corrado (Jan 14, 2003)

your welcome.lol. :beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer: (12pk) i told you that **** was dope


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

DougLoBue said:


> Going out to install this and try to figure the ECU communication situation out-- total nightmare. About to buy a TT with a stock wideband :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:


How far have you gotten?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Here's the deal...

I have a 2001 AMU TT, stock NB 02

Last year I did a WB swap by using an OEM mk4 harness and unpinning the 02 wires and re-connecting them to my stock harness. I also removed my SAI relay and MAF sensor wiring. My car was running Unitronic at the time off a mk4 AWP WB ECU and the ECU was mailed to them to be flashed. When revisions were made my ECU was installed in a later model mk4 VW because my car could not read or flash the ECU. I had no problem running Vag-Com though.

Though this time I always had this code, car ran great just couldn't flash the ECU:

18058 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from Instrument Cluster
P1650 - 35-00 - -

People say this comes when swapping from NB to WB. I'm starting to think the ECU's communicate differently. Digging into AWP vs. AMU wiring diagrams I have found that the AWP has the CAN-BUS connected to the Instrument Cluster specifically the Green connector pin's 18 & 19. The AWP maintains the K line also though- which is the single wire old school diagnostic communications system.

On my AMU car I have found the CAN lines to run from the ECU,AWD,ABS and possibly other locations but not to the cluster. I decided to install pins and twisted CANBUS wiring from the cluster to the existing CANBUS circuit and I still receive the same code.

Still can't read the ECU with Eurodyne Flash but I can vag-com it no problem.

I will be digging through the wiring diagrams and comparing the CANBUS more extensivly. I did read a huge article today that describes most CANBUS communications to have a control unit. I don't know if 2003 VW setups are so old school that they don't have this. 

http://marco.guardigli.it/2010/10/hacking-your-car.html

I haven't attempted to run wires to the OBD2 port yet for can-bus. After a beer I'll go out and try that one next.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

ECU update:

A couple of days ago I headed down to FFE and tried my ECU & cable read on a MK4 VW- I had the exact same results. Shipped both to Chris @ Eurodyne and hopefully it's an issue with the ECU that can be resolved. If not I'll buy another.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

I'm glad your finally willing to scrap that damn ecu.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

So why was an adj. FPR an issue?


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## The_RoadWarrior (Nov 21, 2011)

^^^ I'm curious too ^^^


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

I wasn't interested in having another adjustment. I'll be running 3bar and the stock FPR seems reliable enough.

I would have spent $300 on an adjustable and all the crap that comes with it just to have set it to 3bar or $70 to use the stock FPR and it came with most of the fittings I'll need.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> I wasn't interested in having another adjustment. I'll be running 3bar and the stock FPR seems reliable enough.
> 
> I would have spent $300 on an adjustable and all the crap that comes with it just to have set it to 3bar or $70 to use the stock FPR and it came with most of the fittings I'll need.


Put a gauge on that OEM FPR and you'll see that they aren't very precise, aka it won't be right @ 43.5 psi.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

How off have you seen them be?


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## MKllllvr28 (Sep 15, 2005)

Mine's off by 4 psi. I run the rmr adapter.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

So an interesting event occurred today:

I shipped the ECU out from my job to Eurodyne in Canada. My company provides nuclear power products internationally and government defense products to the US. Canadian customs rang up my boss today asking why they were receiving a package for Eurodyne with an invoice for a nuclear valve going to Korea. Seems like paperwork got mixed up and I've become the start of a running office joke.

Guess my Canadian bound packages I'll pay full price for in the future...


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## J Patterson (Apr 11, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> So an interesting event occurred today:
> 
> I shipped the ECU out from my job to Eurodyne in Canada. My company provides nuclear power products internationally and government defense products to the US. Canadian customs rang up my boss today asking why they were receiving a package for Eurodyne with an invoice for a nuclear valve going to Korea. Seems like paperwork got mixed up and I've become the start of a running office joke.
> 
> Guess my Canadian bound packages I'll pay full price for in the future...


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

DougLoBue said:


> So an interesting event occurred today:
> 
> I shipped the ECU out from my job to Eurodyne in Canada. My company provides nuclear power products internationally and government defense products to the US. Canadian customs rang up my boss today asking why they were receiving a package for Eurodyne with an invoice for a nuclear valve going to Korea. Seems like paperwork got mixed up and I've become the start of a running office joke.
> 
> Guess my Canadian bound packages I'll pay full price for in the future...


Oh boy haha. That must have been a fun time explaining that one to the customs


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## MKllllvr28 (Sep 15, 2005)

Sounds like terrorism to me.... :laugh:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

haha yea it was an adventure. Still hasn't made it there yet even though it was schedueled for delivery today.

Today got another cluster in the mail. My old one's gas gauge didn't work and it was really super special in the winter- wouldn't function for about 5 minutes. Just crossed my mind how do I change the milage amount on the cluster?

Aside from this ordered some other toys for inside the car including an A2DP setup.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

While the ECU is out here's some photos from the motor work from a few months back.

ARP Main studs and IE rods













JE Pistons and fresh walls and decked block






























AEB head, dipped, decked, new valve guides and seats cut


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Cable and ECU are on their way back to me!

ECU checks out, cable needed some repair- a big thanks goes out to Eurodyne's Chris Tapp :thumbup:

Now to try and squeeze my car into Force Fed for some intercooler piping and hopefully after that I can finally drive this thing...


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

DougLoBue said:


> *Then* after that I *will definately* drive this thing...*and love every second of it*


FTFY


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

DougLoBue said:


> Cable and ECU are on their way back to me!
> 
> ECU checks out, cable needed some repair- a big thanks goes out to Eurodyne's Chris Tapp :thumbup:
> 
> Now to try and squeeze my car into Force Fed for some intercooler piping and hopefully after that I can finally drive this thing...


Lookin good! Can't wait to hear how it goes!

Joe


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## The_RoadWarrior (Nov 21, 2011)

DougLoBue said:


> Cable and ECU are on their way back to me!
> 
> ECU checks out, cable needed some repair- a big thanks goes out to Eurodyne's Chris Tapp :thumbup:
> 
> Now to try and squeeze my car into Force Fed for some intercooler piping and hopefully after that I can finally drive this thing...


Good news, remember the be anal about the brake-in procedures this time and re-torquing the head (don't put it on the dyno even if it's tempting). I can't wait to get my hands on it to squeeze some power out of maestro on a corn fed BT.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

W00T for corn! 

PS I'm real close to converting my lowly 180Q. :laugh:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Any motor break in procedures/advice? Fluids to be used/changed and when?

Edit: LOL :laugh:


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

Most I have seen and I used myself was non syn oil and run through the rev range to get good heat to seat the rings properly. Limiting the revs may keep you from getting a good seal. A hundred miles later, change the oil still with non syn again for 500 miles then back to full syn. There is also break in oils you can try.


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## The_RoadWarrior (Nov 21, 2011)

cincyTT said:


> Most I have seen and I used myself was non syn oil and run through the rev range to get good heat to seat the rings properly. Limiting the revs may keep you from getting a good seal. A hundred miles later, change the oil still with non syn again for 500 miles then back to full syn. There is also break in oils you can try.


Yep, that's the way to do it!
Doug has it under control this time.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Just did front control arms on the BMW. First side took hours then second about 30 minutes. Nightmare.

While I did that AAA picked my car up and now I'm going to see it at Force Fed. Intercooler piping should be getting done or at least started today. I'm sure there will be photos to follow. 











---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=40.772394,-73.333785


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## The_RoadWarrior (Nov 21, 2011)

I've done these on the race car at work several times and they are not that bad with the right tools and some practice.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

I spy a sledge hammer.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

The_RoadWarrior said:


> I've done these on the race car at work several times and they are not that bad with the right tools and some practice.


Yea I learned that. Had to buy a ball joint popper fork and use a sledge hammer hard a bunch of times to remove the balljoint. Second side I got done in under an hour. 


---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=40.705493,-74.008603


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Nice I have been waiting to see a build :thumbup:opcorn:


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## Vdub 2.0 (Jan 8, 2008)

more pics!!:thumbup:


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

IIRC to change your cluster mileage the dealer has to do it.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

I'm being sent teaser pics... aka the car will be done tonight it looks like!

Ed's the effin' man! - This is the exact way I wanted to route it:


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## Vdub 2.0 (Jan 8, 2008)

done tonight that excellent.. will she be up and running? :thumbup:


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## 20psi now (Feb 26, 2009)

opcorn: love it... now when you get done ill drive out there and trade you car's and take a fast car home!! :laugh:


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## MKllllvr28 (Sep 15, 2005)

Lookin good man. :thumbup:


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Good to see the progress Doug! Seems like you will stand a better shot at running me on the way down to H2O


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Damn! I wish I lived up by you guys. I'd probably have gone BT by now:laugh::thumbup:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> Good to see the progress Doug! Seems like you will stand a better shot at running me on the way down to H2O


lol senior Gregory needs the hookup with a verdict kit to keep up!

Oh and TT info- the battery box fits perfectly. Looks like I will be able to run a full-size battery up front :thumbup:


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## giacTT (May 16, 2007)

Let me know how the lag goes is on this...Not sure i would like anything larger than my 3076... Very interested in your wb issues however. Im still on Nb with eurodyne tune. Chris doesnt seem to want to make a bigger 
file for me unless i switch to WB.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Last year with a small port head and stock intake manifold:












I'm suspecting the large port head & intake manifold will make spool a little quicker. I'm pretty sure the boost curve is similar to a 3076R... If you're running a vband setup just remember that they are two different size vbands.

I'll definitely update about the Eurodyne WB file this week. *I can assure you that the issues were on my end not his*. My post on the first page digging into the differences between NB vs. WB and CAN-BUS vs. K line should all be ignored. All TT's WB or NB had both a CAN-BUS communication system and a K-line diagnostic system.

The CB system connects ECU/ABS/Haldex. The difference between NB and WB was CB also communicates with the cluster and radio on WB, which is probably just for the information readout.

The K-line also connects all those devices and more on both NB & WB for diagnostic purposes and also flash purposes.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

DougLoBue said:


> lol senior Gregory needs the hookup with a verdict kit to keep up!


That he does...Got a new toy coming out in the late spring that you can run then :laugh:

The new piping is far better than the old setup. No more heat soak :beer:



warranty225cpe said:


> Damn! I wish I lived up by you guys. I'd probably have gone BT by now:laugh::thumbup:


Dont need a big turbo to be fast


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

You guys like the new wheel and tire setup?











---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=40.730739,-73.445465


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Lol


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

DougLoBue said:


> You guys like the new wheel and tire setup?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

I like rally TTs but that's ridiculous :laugh:


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## G'D60 (Mar 11, 2002)

new batmobile??


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Not motor related but:

Tonight modified a Belkin Bluetooth receiver made for home AC outlets to work off an iPod charger. The EQ I have has an A/B switch so I'll have iPod direct input and charging then Bluetooth wireless audio from any device.

It just so happens that the Belkin is 5v/180mA so it works perfectly with an iPod charger. I'll hardwire the charger hidden behind the dash. The Belkin has a minijack output so I'll just run a minijack to RCA Cable.


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## MKllllvr28 (Sep 15, 2005)

You sir, are an electronic junkie.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

And a genius


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## The_RoadWarrior (Nov 21, 2011)

DougLoBue said:


> Not motor related but:
> 
> Tonight modified a Belkin Bluetooth receiver made for home AC outlets to work off an iPod charger. The EQ I have has an A/B switch so I'll have iPod direct input and charging then Bluetooth wireless audio from any device.
> 
> It just so happens that the Belkin is 5v/180mA so it works perfectly with an iPod charger. I'll hardwire the charger hidden behind the dash. The Belkin has a minijack output so I'll just run a minijack to RCA Cable.


Nice, any chance of cloning?


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Mmmmm.... (dreams of a F23 on E85....................)


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

The_RoadWarrior said:


> Nice, any chance of cloning?


Yea- no problem. The parts were like $40 total and it took a minute to modify. Do you still have a stock radio though?


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## The_RoadWarrior (Nov 21, 2011)

DougLoBue said:


> Yea- no problem. The parts were like $40 total and it took a minute to modify. Do you still have a stock radio though?


Everything is stock besides a few suspension and engine mods here and there  !


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

We can swap your CD changer for it then if you don't mind sacrificing that.

ECU should be in today. I think that Ed finished up the piping yesterday. Shooting to turn the motor over for the first time Thursday or possibly Friday at my house if you're around- I'll let ya know when.


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## The_RoadWarrior (Nov 21, 2011)

DougLoBue said:


> We can swap your CD changer for it then if you don't mind sacrificing that.
> 
> ECU should be in today. I think that Ed finished up the piping yesterday. Shooting to turn the motor over for the first time Thursday or possibly Friday at my house if you're around- I'll let ya know when.


I could careless about the bulky inaccessible CD changer( nobody uses CD anymore anyway).

Let me know exactly when you are ready to fire and I'll be there.

Are you starting straight up on E85 or will do regular gas and convert later?

I am excited to see the car finally running again (we'll make sure she runs forever this time around).


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## The_RoadWarrior (Nov 21, 2011)

warranty225cpe said:


> Mmmmm.... (dreams of a F23 on E85....................)


It is happening for me over the winter and it's going to be epic. I really plan on pushing the envelope on this hybrid.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> Yea- no problem. The parts were like $40 total and it took a minute to modify. Do you still have a stock radio though?


Can you make a new thread with the info? It would be greatly appreciated! :beer:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

The_RoadWarrior said:


> I could careless about the bulky inaccessible CD changer( nobody uses CD anymore anyway).
> 
> Let me know exactly when you are ready to fire and I'll be there.
> 
> ...


Starting on 93 just to get it running. I only have quarter a tank in there so I'll run that down before the weekend and we can tune for E85? I kind of figured that would be easier?



20v master said:


> Can you make a new thread with the info? It would be greatly appreciated! :beer:


Of course- after I get mine running for a couple of days to prove it works I'll start one up. I did test it in my Subaru during my commute today and it worked great.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Yes, I'd start on 93 to eliminate variables.


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## ModsTTand (Jul 8, 2009)

The_RoadWarrior said:


> Nice, any chance of cloning?


 And they ask me why i love&respect Vortex members !#inovation#unique#solutions


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Big issue number one solved:

Eurodyne officially reads the ECU!


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

eace:


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## 631 Corrado (Jan 14, 2003)

awesome man... glad to hear!!!!


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

DougLoBue said:


> Big issue number one solved:
> 
> Eurodyne officially reads the ECU!


:thumbup:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Picked the car up from FFE Friday night. Intercooler piping is all done and Ed made an extension for my fuel rail so I can mount the FPR off it- I'll have to take photos later.

When I disassembled my turbo last year I removed the oil restrictor. Apparently you're not supposed to do this and it's pre-set to a specific height from Precsion. I just got off the phone with them and I'm shipping it to them for repair today.

Left to be done:
-Extend throttle body & MAP sensor harnesses
-Install battery, new terminals & wires
-Reinstall turbo
-Catch can decisions
-Wire in audio stuff and reassemble interior
-Bribe Vince to shave & prep bumper for paint

The intercooler piping runs from the turbo, over the transmission, down in front of the fans, under the frame rail (BOV is hidden down there) and turns into the intercooler. The cold side turns up, MAP sensor, complex welded bends into the throttle body. I'll pop the headlight off to get better photos later- but it all came out great. Also the car is going to look much better running grills finally.

Intake & hot side:










Hot side turning downwards










hot side going under frame rail










Cold side out of intercooler










Bends from MAP up behind headlight










view from the TB down to behind headlight










Front bumper needs lots of work!











In other automotive news, did Hawk HPS's on the E46, fresh plain rotors, fluid & hardware.










Found a beater I'm considering buying on the cheap. Real cheap.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Running yet?


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Anyway. Where's the progress updates?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> Running yet?


Sadly not :thumbdown:

Last week started the iPod touch install. Scored a 32gb on Craigslist for $80, jail broke it.










Precision called on Thursday at 4pm. My turbo is in perfect shape and just needed the oil restrictor repositioned and the CHRA realigned in the process. $70 charge + return shipping. Figure $100 spent and I know the thing is in perfect shape. Guy on the phone was like "you know there's some piston material on your exhaust wheel"... :bang head: Anyway- hope they got it out the same day and it should be here by tomorrow* I hope*.

Fueling was finished last week. Ed made an extension off the fuel rail for the FPR housing. One of the nice things about this housing is that it allows the feed & return to be on the same side. I broke one of the little plastic fittings but Jeff (4cefed4) pulled through with an extra fitting- Gracias amigo! The throttle body wiring was also extended with OEM wire wrap.



















Finally today I was finishing up mounting the fuel pump, wiring and power steering res. Vince started cutting, shaving & sanding the bumper. He'll be back to work on that tomorrow and I'll be finishing the inside of the car so more pics to come of course. EQ, Bluetooth & battery need to be installed. Oil & coolant filled and then it's just a waiting game. Really close to turning the key- just waiting on the turbo to come in!










Yes, I was told the best way to shave a bumper is in loafers and a peacoat... thanks Vince! :laugh:


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Loafers and a peacoat.....fancy aren't we? :laugh:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

PLAYED TT said:


> Loafers and a peacoat.....fancy aren't we? :laugh:


We're snazzy in Huntington Bay lol

So I've told him I want to shave the headlight washers & Europlate holder - leaving the line around the grille.

OR

Should we shave the line too?


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

DougLoBue said:


> We're snazzy in Huntington Bay lol
> 
> So I've told him I want to shave the headlight washers & Europlate holder - leaving the line around the grille.
> 
> ...


Looks great man! I vote for europlate holder and aliens only....that is my future plan too someday!

Joe


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## MKllllvr28 (Sep 15, 2005)

Yeah I'm also a fan of the grill line being there. :thumbup:


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

RabbitGTDguy said:


> I vote for europlate holder and aliens only....that is my future plan too someday!
> 
> Joe


x2

Doug you pick up that MK3 beater or you still rocking the subi?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Still have the Subaru. Decided there are better beaters out there than that mk3.

Talked to Precision today- they are shipping the turbo out today or tomorrow. So my initial estimate of getting it back quickly was totally incorrect.

*Anyone want to trade me front passenger grilles. I have the tow hook delete and no longer need it.* *Photo below.
*
Today: Hardwired the bluetooth module and iPod connector. Jailbroke the iPod. Installed the EQ. Reinstalled all the interior. On the EQ I removed all the yellow/green LED's and soldered in red.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

:thumbup:


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## ShockwaveCS (Jun 22, 2006)

you gotta play teleport massive in your car. my home system kills with this song. i have to like turn it down as it somehow hits the perfect bass notes and hits HARD and clean as fook.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Love me some Bassnectar but the car needs a better sub for it. I'm going to be building something into where the rear tire used to be. I haven't quite decided on the speaker yet though. You're in MD did you go to starscape this year?

So guess what fed-ex just brought back all repaired with new seals. It might be 24 degrees out but I'm about to suit up and finish this damn car!


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Do werk Doug!


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

DougLoBue said:


> So guess what fed-ex just brought back all repaired with new seals. It might be 24 degrees out but I'm about to suit up and finish this damn car!


:thumbup:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Alright-- say a prayer... it's time for the first key turn in about 20 minutes when the battery has a charge.

Still little things need to be finished up but I just want to let it run for a bit. I'm sure my neighbors are going to love me at 10pm...


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

I want a phone call so I can hear it :laugh:


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## The_RoadWarrior (Nov 21, 2011)

Nice, finally!


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## 1badg35 (Oct 6, 2008)

Yeah buddy! btw, loafers and peacoat are the only way to do things around here. haha

reminds me i need to finish on that bumper, and i do currently have another set of loafers and a pea coat on, so i might have to just take a ride over to knock it out..


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Sooo. Finally cranked it over not so long ago and within 10 seconds the motor started making a high pitched squealing noise and the oil light was on. After much panic and a few phone calls and starting the car over with the same results & checking the oil level to insure I wasn't nuts. It turns out something is wrong on the accessory belt because on Ed's recommendation I pulled it off and the squealing is gone.

The oil light is still there, however, this is that used cluster I picked up and it doesn't read RPM's either- pretty sure it's defective or I'm defective. aka I'll check the oil sensors wiring tomorrow and if that doesn't fix it swap clusters.

My Wideband gauge is either broken or the sensor is bad because it has no reading. I also need to finalize the battery setup and intercooler piping.

My fuel pump wiring solution worked perfectly. I used the stock SAI relay this time and ditched the USRT harness. Wired it so it would only turn on when the car was running.

This is running the unmodified Eurodyne 1000cc base tune. Tomorrow I'll bring the motor up to dead center on the temp gauge and retorque the head studs. If I get the tach working I'll take it for a gentle ride around the block.

Sound clips for all:


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Congrats Doug!


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Sounds mean. I cant wait to see it all buttoned up!


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## MKllllvr28 (Sep 15, 2005)

I miss that sound. :laugh::thumbup: Congrats man!


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## The_RoadWarrior (Nov 21, 2011)

I don't like that clacking noise ???


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

This AM. Heat cycled the motor. Go to retorque the ARP studs and #5 snaps in half. Also looks like it's the AC compressor that is squealing so when I pull the head I'll figure that out too. Still don't have a tach and still have the oil light on. I have no idea why.










This came in the mail as well


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

50 minutes later and the head is off the car.

time to go to NYC for NYE. The piece of **** car will have to wait till monday.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

The_RoadWarrior said:


> I don't like that clacking noise ???


Lifters? Or AC perhaps?


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## The_RoadWarrior (Nov 21, 2011)

DeckManDubs said:


> Lifters? Or AC perhaps?


Sounds like deflated lifters since everything has been sitting for so long. An hydraulic tensioner could make that noise too and if all that checks out something is contacting in the cylinders (we all hope that's not the case ).


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

When I ran it Friday the noise was gone. It was just lifters. During that video the AC wasn't connected actually.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Yeah, lifters are (scary) noisy til they pump up. Not for the faint of heart on a slow engine build. :laugh:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Back out there. Got head bolts and a new head gasket.

After pulling the head last week I decided to hunt down my electrical problems. I replaced a coil pack harness on this harness during my motor install and it seems that the ground for the oil level sensor runs to the main harness then back up to the coil pack harness.

I'd also suspect the Tach pulls signal from some line on this harness too. I've found the oil level sensor one. Next up is the tach and head/turbo re-install.

Nice to know three out of the four issues are on their way to being solved. Now I just need to find a WG center-ring I dropped on the subframe and the head gets reinstalled.

Did I mention it's 25 degrees out :thumbdown: and I ran out of :beer: (double :thumbdown: )

Also all of the silicone hoses I ordered came in. Might be able to install everything correctly this time.


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## Tempes_TT (Oct 24, 2010)

How exciting dude! Find anyone to swap that lower grill yet? 

GJ so far man. I like this. Gets me excited for mine! (even though its not going to be nearly as powerful! :laugh :thumbup::thumbup:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Thanks and as long as you enjoy what you build- that's what matters. Nobody to swap the grille with yet, I'm just going to pick up an extra I think.

Pic right before the head goes on. Now without studs I can slide the whole assembly in and out all bolted together. I'm pretty excited about that!

With that said, it's 2am and time to quit. Real job time at 8, boo


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Nice Doug. That harness should do the trick.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Holy crap that housing looks huge in the pic, I didn't realize the scale :thumbup:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Little status update:

Something is funky with my head. There are inserts that the head bolts sit on that are a different size than other 1.8T heads. When trying to use stock bolts my head decided it would shave down the threads on the top of the bolt. I just got my digital caliper back and plan on taking measurements & photos later.

Before figuring this out we went through a bunch of headaches: Swapping in three new headgaskets and two sets of OEM bolts (spending a couple hundred bucks)- I finally ordered new ARP studs.

Sidenote: ARP won't warranty their products unless you have the build number off the side of the box. :sly:

Entire car is back together as of last night (minus the battery). Tonight we should be firing it up for the second time. I have hopes that I have fixed the oil light issue and a couple of ideas on how to diagnose & fix the tach. - Bad cluster connection, missing ground loop like the oil light or bad cluster.

I oil'd the AC compressor on Big Phil's recommendation to fix the squealing and Ed fixed my intercooler pipe after I mangled it because I wasn't thinking. If all issues are fixed I just need to fix my ProSport Wideband gauge and that's it.

I'll update later.


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## 1.8 skeet skeet (Aug 11, 2004)

That thing is going to be a monster opcorn:


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

DougLoBue said:


> Little status update:
> 
> Something is funky with my head. There are inserts that the head bolts sit on that are a different size than other 1.8T heads. When trying to use stock bolts my head decided it would shave down the threads on the top of the bolt. I just got my digital caliper back and plan on taking measurements & photos later.
> 
> ...


Doug, your running an AEB head no? Some where in my brain it comes up that there is a difference in studs between AEB's and AMU's/BEA's. AMU bolts being larger :screwy:

But good to hear you got it sorted. Only like four months or so till Lime Rock


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> Doug, your running an AEB head no? Some where in my brain it comes up that there is a difference in studs between AEB's and AMU's/BEA's. AMU bolts being larger


You got that right. AEB head on my car. AEB was 11mm x 96mm & Small port is 10mm x 115mm IIRC.

So I assume the block can take the longer bolt but the issue with my head appeared to be with the fitting in the head inserts. Tony at FFE stuck my bolts through a bare AEB head and the worked fine- so that's why I think my head is weird, I have zero luck or I'm retarded. No comments Noah :laugh:



DeckManDubs said:


> Only like four months or so till Lime Rock


 Phil was telling me about the Lime Rock track day and I'm all in. Going to have to get a monster tune by then and some track skills.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

All blocks besides AEB accept 10mm bolts. AEB's take 11mm's. The head doesn't care which you use, only the block, aka I run an AEB on my AWP block with standard OEM 10mm bolts.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> All blocks besides AEB accept 10mm bolts. AEB's take 11mm's. The head doesn't care which you use, only the block, aka I run an AEB on my AWP block with standard OEM 10mm bolts.


This isn't a great picture but this is what was happening. The bolt threads into the block just fine only after the head sheers the threads off the top of the bolt and then it fits perfectly. After removing the head and dropping a bolt with the thread VS. a bolt that had the threads sheered off- the sheered bolt drops down that much further. On the AEB head @ FFE they both dropped through equally.

Weird no?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Okay. She runs!

Alternator squeal is all gone :thumbup:
Valvetrain noise is normal again :thumbup:
Oil light & tach still don't work :thumbdown:
Wideband gauge/sensor still obviously have issues :thumbdown:
The base tune is pretty spot on. Low idle. Dead on AFR with low correction :thumbup:
Clutch doesn't chatter like crazy at idle (yet maybe) :thumbup:










The car is cooling down now after a heat cycle. Preparing for ARP re-torque procedure to 80 ft/lbs. Dash and cluster are already out to be swapped for trouble shooting. Regardless if I figure that out or not I'll probably take it around the block a few times tonight.


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## bklnstunt718 (May 30, 2007)

hey man! thing looks awesome!!!! nice and clean!!!

thanks for helping out on the phone the other day.. it was a bad connection to the alternator... turned out i spend 300bucks on a new one that i didnt even need


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Not a problem Jaymo!

Re-torqued head studs- didn't snap any :thumbup:
Swapped clusters- I don't have any wiring issues, I purchased a bad used cluster :thumbup:

Put 6 gentle miles on the car - I couldn't be happier.

Oh and I have to mention. Eurodyne > Unitronic any day of the week.

I come to a stop and my car doesn't rev-hunt, bog down or stall. Acceleration out of boost is smooth. I cannot comment further as of now but so far I'm impressed.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Success!


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

DougLoBue said:


> Oh and I have to mention. Eurodyne > Unitronic any day of the week.


:laugh:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Max & me start tuning Saturday. Last night drove the car and logged it- it goes off the charts lean as soon as it enters boost. Maestro log reads 58.something AFR after the 02 correction maxes out.

Ignition upgrades part 1:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> it goes off the charts lean as soon as it enters boost. Maestro log reads 58.something AFR after the 02 correction maxes out.



I thought Maestro was the shiz?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> I thought Maestro was the shiz?


I believe it is, but it needs tuning to get there. Out of the box it had a terrific idle and out of boost AFR's around 14-17 under load.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Issues: accessory belt falls off and rides outside of tensioner. Brand new tensioner and belt didn't help- anyone ever seen this before??

Good news: Car is fully together and the tuning process has begun. Short of engine covers, catch can and new valve cover & coilpack adapters.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Its falling off:what:


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

use a straight edge and find out what pulley is not lined up with the others, suspect that one of them is off.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Audiguy84 said:


> use a straight edge and find out what pulley is not lined up with the others, suspect that one of them is off.


That's what I'm going to try tonight- I just cannot figure out which pulley would be off... Also I cannot recall if that coolant bolt bracket goes on the inside of the bolts or the outside.


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

its hard to tell in the pics but is the alternator straight?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Pretty certain it is- it's bolted in all the way.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Doug are you using an ABA block?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> Doug are you using an ABA block?


Negative captain.

AWP block
AEB head

stock pulleys & accessories from my AMU setup including crank pulley.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

DougLoBue said:


> Negative captain.
> 
> AWP block
> AEB head
> ...


It seems like your tensioner is sitting in ~.125-.250" towards the block. Do you have your old one to compare to?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

The tensioner issue turned out to be my mistake...

There is a small bracket for the hard water pipe to bolt to. I had it between the tensioner and the Acc. bracket, it belonged on the outside of the tensioner. Opps!

I think I need a new wideband sensor for both my gauge and possibly the car as well even though it only has about 3 weeks of use on it. For whatever reason Maestro gets stuck reading lead 4.0 Lambra on my logs most of the time and since my WB gauge sensor isn't working I'm totally blind.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

DougLoBue said:


> The tensioner issue turned out to be my mistake...
> 
> There is a small bracket for the hard water pipe to bolt to. I had it between the tensioner and the Acc. bracket, it belonged on the outside of the tensioner. Opps!


Glad you got it sorted :thumbup:


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## Vdub 2.0 (Jan 8, 2008)

any updates


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Sorry guys- just got back from a ski trip in Colorado.

Last week I replaced the WB sensor and Max and me did a few log & learn runs. The WB cured Maestro not reading the AFR, however, we were having a strange problem where the car makes power up until 5k correctly then pretty much nothing until 6k and then pulls like a freight train to 7k. In that drop off (5-6k) it has perfect AFR's and holds 20psi.

Spoke to Max last night and we're going to schedule some more time to figure it out now that I'm back.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

The fact that it's running and the only problem so far is the tune is enough to make me happy.


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## zak2006 (May 5, 2011)

Congrats on everything going together! you should post a teaser clip of her idling!!!!


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

zak2006 said:


> Congrats on everything going together! you should post a teaser clip of her idling!!!!


 Will do- it's LOUD. Needs a resonator and a different muffler loud.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Loud is good


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

to give everyone an idea of how precise these maestro logs are-

I just posted these up in the Maestro help thread to try and solve my issue.

Excel file download


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## 631 Corrado (Jan 14, 2003)

PLAYED TT said:


> Loud is good


 
loud makes the small village of Huntington rattle.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

631 Corrado said:


> loud makes the small village of Huntington rattle.


 And ll the feeble minded weak people will cower in the shadows:laugh:.


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## 631 Corrado (Jan 14, 2003)

rofl!


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

There was a code related to the crankshaft position sensor that popped up... 

Took it out, cleaned it off and reinstalled. The car runs perfectly- no hesitations under boost. My AFR's need to be fine tuned but that is just a mater of time.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

:thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

I saw your Excel spreadsheet, which shows boost duty in the 75% range. Is the N75 hooked up or are you simply using an mbc?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

I'm using a ball and spring MBC. It's a dual stage controller with an electronic solenoid - I wanted to be able to switch between normal (20psi) and high boost (35 psi?) on the fly.

It's the deluxe unit by boost valve: http://www.boostvalve.com/pricelist.html

What map are you using to adjust part throttle fueling? "power enrichment"? I'm seeing rich numbers at part throttle and even 02 correction at idle. I'd like to have as little 02 correction as possible.

New excel sheet with the car working correctly, posted in the Maestro help thread


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

*Updates:

Tuning:*



20v master said:


> Put a gauge on that OEM FPR and you'll see that they aren't very precise, aka it won't be right @ 43.5 psi.





MKllllvr28 said:


> Mine's off by 4 psi. I run the rmr adapter.


 So you guys were right... I'm buying an Areomotive. I didn't put a gauge on my FPR, however, if I re-tune Maestro to work with ~850cc injectors it runs PERFECTLY with very low 02 correction. Did the math and that's about 39psi of fuel pressure on my ID1000's.

Before I figured that out, I looked at the ID1000's datasheet on Ed's advice. Turns out at 3bar FPR they only run at 900cc. At first I re-tuned for that and it worked better. Then I read this thread, specifically this paragraph: 



MmmBoost; said:


> The first value of 032 will be the additive fuel trim. This is how much fuel is added on or subtracted. To find out how much extra pulse width is being added/subtracted, take the percentage in the first space and multiply it by your injector constant to get (ms). This should tell you roughly how much time to add or subtract from your battery voltage compensation table depending on your system operating voltage.....idle voltage.......etc.
> 
> The second value is multiplicative. This value the multiplication factor for the injector constant that you put in. If it says 13% that means the ECU is scaling your Injector Constant by +13%. So you should scale your value by 13%.


Found that after a 30 minute drive to work my 032 multiplicative corrections were at 7% so I added 7% to my injector constant and ended up with a near perfect running car with close to 0 o2 corrections under full load and below 10 while cruising. Adding that 7% to the constant got me to the ~850cc injectors. Note: As the injector constant increases, that symbolizes a smaller injector.

Now before making any further progress I really have to get an adjustable FPR and get these things running 4bar of pressure on the dot which should make 1000cc @ 14volts (which is my voltage).

Over the next couple of days I'll be trying to understand which fuel tables Maestro is referencing and when. There are two to my knowledge, however, in the past with the wrong injector constant I couldn't get one of them to be active. I will try again now though. I do have the car part throttle and cruising up to 3,200 rpms between 14-15 AFR. This is making my car a 25mpg + city driving car :laugh:. I've gotten 200 miles to half a tank and about 2/3's of those I was beating the hell out of this thing (7.5k RPM pulls all day long) and no highway miles to speak of.

*Other news:*

My cluster MPH & Gas gauge not working turned out to be a fuse. I did replace the speed sensor though so just $80 wasted and a new sensor. Opps, I'll live. The gas gauge is still optipmistic by about an 1/8th of a tank I think. I'll soon find out because I'm going to run it dry with a spare tank in the car later this week.

Swapped Magnaflow mufflers from a chambered to a straight through with packing. Makes the car much quieter, however, LOUDER under WOT. I have to visit Force Fed to have the muffler, resonator and Eurojet tip finally welded up.

Ordered all Fragola lines and fittings to replace the rubber.

Found a transmission fluid leak to be coming from the drain plug. I'll be grabbing MT-90 or Royal Purple today and do a flush tonight.

Future steps: get adjustable FPR & Fragola lines installed. Retune for 1000cc on pump. Get 02 corrections in-line through adjusting injector constant & battery compensation voltage (injector fine tuning). Call Max and switch to E85. Rape souls on the dyno.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Last Friday I drove to Force Fed and Ed welded on a new muffler and tip for me. I swapped from a Magnaflow chambered to a straight through with packing. The car is still too loud but MUCH more liveable. It's gonna get a Vibrant ultra quiet resonator (still straight through). Shouldn't loose power, I just want to loose the highway cruising drone. Right now accelerating isn't bad and crusing just needs a few DB's lowered- but full throttle is even louder than before- it sounds like straight open wastegate.

Also on my way there I snapped the nut & stud off my shifter at the trans side with one mean shift I guess? Who knows. Either way I pulled that whole mechanism out of the transmission and I should be able to drill and tap it on the drill press at work tomorrow. Be up and running again by Wednesday night I hope.

Here are some photos. One is before I aligned the exhaust tip, but it's the only good one I really have in the light. The tip sits centered perfectly now.
































































Also got my fuel pressure gauge. Regulator is at FFE, just waiting on a few fittings to do this all correctly.


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Looks fun:laugh: nice gauge I love getting new parts in its like Christmas when I'm opening the boxes.


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Hey Doug you seen these yet I just ordered them u think their any good???


http://www.034motorsport.com/chassi...gen-r32-8l8n-audi-a3s3tt-quattro-p-22328.html


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

I wanted to buy those but I've sworn to this commitment of never taking my subframe off again! I'm not sure how much of a difference they make but $50 and getting rid of some rubber sounds real good to me.

I've been interested in a camber plate for awhile. I don't want to totally sacrifice ride quality but do want to get rid of our terrible design. Been looking at these since they are by Kmac and their bushings have held up really well in the rear of my car...

http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_208_221&products_id=1365


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## 631 Corrado (Jan 14, 2003)

i will chime in about thoes sub frame bushings from the r32 world and what people have had to say about them.... they dont do all that much but make your car vibrate more. comming form someone who has has solid metal mounts in thier R its not comfortable. would i put them in my car... yes, probbly... is it worth the cash. no. haha but thats my 2 cents.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Yeah some reviews would be nice:thumbup:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Fuel system is all together. Fragola everything except one 45' fitting I didn't have- that will have to be fixed later. Headlight needed some trimming, after the photos I filled it in with epoxy. Coolant resivour was pushed a little towards the motor to fit the fuel pump correctly.

I just got my shift stalk back from my job. They machined down the gear so no more need for a concave nut. They drilled and tapped it for an M6 bolt, I was told that M8 would have left too little wall thickness and could compromise the gears strength. Came out perfectly- now lets see if it holds up.

Now I just need to get rid of that red coolant line :banghead:


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Yeah red wasnt the best choice:laugh:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

PLAYED TT said:


> Yeah red wasnt the best choice:laugh:


Find me a black braided one!


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## bklnstunt718 (May 30, 2007)

i want those camber plates!!! freaking pricey though!


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

A nice tweak would be a heatshield for that stuff, between it and the coldpipe. Or, maybe even shorten the fuel feed line and move the pump and FPR back (so the FPR sits between the PS res and the fender). Maybe angle the gauge up 45* so you can read better, and still easily adjust the FPR :thumbup:

Sorry, I'm OCD, I'll shut up if you want me to :laugh:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

l88m22vette said:


> A nice tweak would be a heatshield for that stuff, between it and the coldpipe. Or, maybe even shorten the fuel feed line and move the pump and FPR back (so the FPR sits between the PS res and the fender). Maybe angle the gauge up 45* so you can read better, and still easily adjust the FPR :thumbup:
> 
> Sorry, I'm OCD, I'll shut up if you want me to :laugh:


It's TIGHT in there. As it is I needed to bend the coolant resivour mounts to fit the pump that far back and cut the headlight to fit the FPR gauge. I can't change anything unless I get a custom resivour for both PS & coolant or relocate the pump under the car and get an inline filter.

Nothing actually needs mounting brackets. That's how tight it all is!


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

bklnstunt718 said:


> i want those camber plates!!! freaking pricey though!


I found theses http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pro-Alignme...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5ae0476877

Their alot cheaper :thumbup:


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> It's TIGHT in there. As it is I needed to bend the coolant resivour mounts to fit the pump that far back and cut the headlight to fit the FPR gauge. I can't change anything unless I get a custom resivour for both PS & coolant or relocate the pump under the car and get an inline filter.
> 
> Nothing actually needs mounting brackets. That's how tight it all is!


I got what u need check this out its only $229 

I what one just got to many other things to buy right now:banghead:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

I think that's the same as the SPC kit.

$80/side on summit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPS-81340/

-The res. I was considering having a friend weld up at work. I'd just need to cut the metal and tell them how I want it mangled together.


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> I think that's the same as the SPC kit.
> 
> $80/side on summit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPS-81340/
> 
> -The res. I was considering having a friend weld up at work. I'd just need to cut the metal and tell them how I want it mangled together.


Yeah that's Def the same and $100 cheaper so what's the difference from the two????


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

01ttgt28 said:


> Yeah that's Def the same and $100 cheaper so what's the difference from the two????



I think they are the same part, except the summit ones are sold per side and the piece you were looking at is a both side kit. So summit will only save you around $25... I just like the KMAC part because their rear bushings have worked well for years for me...


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

dang you need a new coolant bottle


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Just ordered VVT tensioner and new cam chain- can't wait to see how much lag this reduces!


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## G'D60 (Mar 11, 2002)

DougLoBue said:


> Just ordered VVT tensioner and new cam chain- can't wait to see how much lag this reduces!


Should I post this in the noob thread...

Can you explain how a new vvt tensioner and cam chain will reduce lag? Can't wrap my head around the logistics of that. 

Thanks D


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## 20psi now (Feb 26, 2009)

G'D60 said:


> Should I post this in the noob thread...
> 
> Can you explain how a new vvt tensioner and cam chain will reduce lag? Can't wrap my head around the logistics of that.
> 
> Thanks D


Eurodyne sute 7 come out with cam timing controle for the VVT's. Not just for cold start anymore, but that is as much as I know about it. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TQL8KMwm5sc&context=C3a36fdcADOEgsToPDskJR-bKSUYzDfoV-On1XGJ70


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

First tank of e85 coming up...


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

DougLoBue said:


> First tank of e85 coming up...


Damn it's about time :laugh:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Removed 25% from the injector constant- essentially telling the ECU they are 675cc injectors. Runs great! Feels a little rich/less powerful but my 02 sensor is also toasted yet again.

To the store I go.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

It's only four seconds long. But 30psi is fun and fast. second gear pull

http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a44/godsphantasma/?action=view&current=f516cf36.mp4


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> It's only four seconds long. But 30psi is fun and fast. second gear pull
> 
> http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a44/godsphantasma/?action=view&current=f516cf36.mp4


dame what a tease make a longer video


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

01ttgt28 said:


> dame what a tease make a longer video


Will do! It's just hard to film and drive at the same time. Saturday night instead of filming/tuning I helped my friend with his 1.8T B5 until late.

Noticed from the 30psi log pulls that a MAF-less setup isn't going to cut it. I'm pretty sure from the increased airflow the base map for the MAF isn't nearly up to par. The car has +/- 2, o2 correction at idle and cruise. Under 30psi boost it ramps up to +20. This isn't something I was seeing at 20psi.

Ordered a MAF holder to glue on my 4" pipe from Steve Modshack. Max lent me a MAF sensor to try out and I re-wired in my MAF harness since I removed it back when I did my original harness work.

Wired in a high boost pressure switch right where the motion sensor switch used to be in the center.

Photos to follow later this week when it all comes in.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

:thumbup:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Well we enabled 2 step tonight. Twist your head for the video: http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a44/godsphantasma/?action=view&current=93c1c4dc.mp4

Also spoke with Max, did some timing and target AFR enhancements. Took a bunch of logs and I think they confirm I need a MAF. You can compare 20psi to 30psi, both 3rd gear pulls. The RPM range where I nailed the pedal is a little different but I think it shows for a good comparison.

The 02 correction is minimal until I'm in boost- then it's way too high at both boost levels. The AFR gets really lean at .91 under 30psi, however, on both of these logs there is no timing pull and no knock or misfires. It just GOES. Obviously I'm not going to drive it with these type of numbers at 30psi, but just sharing where I'm at.

Note- the 30psi boost pull, the MAP sensor doesn't log past 22psi. Full boost is at 4,400. This chart will be great for comparing non-VVT tune to a VVT tune.


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Nice video clip :thumbup: to bad I don't know how to read the graphs guess I should of stayed in school


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Yo man what's up with some updates did you dyno yet? Did the car blow up?


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

I know the graphs are ~2 weeks old, but needs more timing!


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

01ttgt28 said:


> Yo man what's up with some updates did you dyno yet? Did the car blow up?


This week there should be VVT going in and a few transmission bearings.

Monday night I tried the VVT tune and it's much different. I need VVT installed to get it to run correctly though.

I had some kind of issue where the car is going really lean just this morning. Had to take it home and take the Subaru to work. I was initially thinking spark plugs and 02 sensor went bad - neither are uncommon in my setup, but 02 going bad doesn't cause the car to run that badly and spark plugs going bad would mean it was misfiring and running rich.

I'm now thinking clogged fuel system. Either filter or injectors... I'm not sure yet.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> I was initially thinking spark plugs and 02 sensor went bad - neither are uncommon in my setup.


What about your setup would make o2 and spark plugs go bad so often? My big turbo setup ran on iridium plugs for 40K miles at a time and I only had one o2 go bad in over 120K miles on various big turbo setups. If you're not running some god awful tune and running really rich all the time or running leaded gas, then they shouldn't go bad any quicker than a stock turbo setup.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> What about your setup would make o2 and spark plugs go bad so often? My big turbo setup ran on iridium plugs for 40K miles at a time and I only had one o2 go bad in over 120K miles on various big turbo setups. If you're not running some god awful tune and running really rich all the time or running leaded gas, then they shouldn't go bad any quicker than a stock turbo setup.


With my last tune/motor I had issues with both 02 sensors and spark plugs. Now with this build running NGK Irridum 7's I haven't had an issue with plugs once yet and probably have 2k on this motor.

The first 02 sensor was killed during tuning on gasoline and I replaced it after going E85. If anything my car runs lean so I have no clue why the sensor would be dying, but like I said this is going off knowledge from my prior setup.

I hit lambda values of high .9's to 1.10 during cruise/idle/part throttle and WOT I range from .80-.85

What happened this morning was the car was idling terribly and back firing. I opened the Maestro logger and took a look. It was going off the chart lean at idle to 4.02 lambda. Under cruising it was between 2.0 and 3.5 sometimes would get down to 1.0. This is why I'm thinking it's a clogged fuel filter- does that makes sense?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Figured the fuel issue out. By running the VVT tune I had blown out the resistor that I had in its place. The car is running 100% normal again now so onwards with new parts!

VVT module is going in today along with new seals and hardware just cause I'm in there already. 

Transmission shift stalk bearings finally getting replaced and all seals/hardware too. 

MadMax control arms to replace my KMAC kit. I'll still keep the KMACs up top.

More pics and results to follow today or tomorrow- back to the garage for now!


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

nice:thumbup:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

That's good news, this thing really had me scratching my head since we went through all the variables. 
The car is making you pay for all the abuse you put it through in the past  

Nice control arms BTW!


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

:thumbup:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> That's good news, this thing really had me scratching my head since we went through all the variables.
> The car is making you pay for all the abuse you put it through in the past
> 
> Nice control arms BTW!


 Haha yep! Thanks for lending me those injectors again! I'll drop by this week to bring them back.

So the cams didn't have to come all the way out, the caps all had to come off though. New tensioner went in smoothly. Had to go out and buy a torque wrench that dropped down to 7 ft/lbs. :laugh: - it's all back together now waiting for the TB to be put back on and a few other parts.

Only thing I'm not comfortable about was where the hash marks sit- the cams are just outside where the cam caps are pointing to. After a quick call to Ed he said that as long as there are 16 rollers between the caps then the tensioner will bring them back in line.

Car should be all back together and (hopefully) running tonight. We have some beautiful weather on Long Island this week!


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Amen to the beautiful weather. I'm aiming to get mine back and running for the AWE meet you told me about. This weather is like a fire under my ass


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Well it's back together and it runs BUT: 

A. I'm not sure the VVT tune is setup right. have a really inconsistent idle. didn't have the patience to mess with it. 

B. it leaks fuel like a fire hose. I thought it was the FPR gauge at first and popped that off. I am not sure right now. Literally took me 10 tires to smell what the E85 was. I'm like "brake cleaner, no wait that evaporates" spray some brake cleaner on the floor. Spray it on my hand, smell it... 

Moral of story: It's time for bed. 

C. Found an interesting way to wire in VVT. If you've gotten rid of the N249 on top of the valve cover the plug is not only identical but one wire plugs into the same circuit (violet), the other (grey) runs back to ECU 105, where it was easily removed and soldered to a wire connected to ECU 115 for VVT. 





















D. Hitachi S4 MAF sensor & housing have been ordered new from ECS. Hope to see them by the end of the week and I think this will help me a lot with tuning and making this car more of a daily driver.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Fuel leak was a broken fuel injector o-ring and the fuel pressure gauge has to be replaced all ready as well. Lets see if the local speed shop has a warranty on these pieces of crap.

Preliminarily VVT results show an addition of +600 RPM before full boost- the total opposite of what's supposed to happen. 20psi now hits at 5.1k instead of 4.4k. Also gave terrible drive-ability- on/off pedal actions resulted in hiccups and backfires.

This is going to require some tuning. My S4 MAF should be in tomorrow so more to follow.


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## bklnstunt718 (May 30, 2007)

doug! cant wait for you to take me for a ride one day.. love the whole thread.. just wish i was reading english and not spanish :beer:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> Now with this build running NGK Irridum 7's


 On E85, you probably won't need them, but I always ran 8EIX's on my 35R setup. Why are you still using a MAF? It just adds a variable, makes idle tuning trickier, etc.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> On E85, you probably won't need them, but I always ran 8EIX's on my 35R setup. Why are you still using a MAF? It just adds a variable, makes idle tuning trickier, etc.


 Currently I'm not using a MAF, but I'd like to use a MAF to have the ECU account for the extra air entering the system. I figure airflow is a variable and cannot be read off a lookup table. What happens when you change from 20 to 35 psi- how could the airflow table be correct?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

DougLoBue said:


> Currently I'm not using a MAF, but I'd like to use a MAF to have the ECU account for the extra air entering the system. I figure airflow is a variable and cannot be read off a lookup table. What happens when you change from 20 to 35 psi- how could the airflow table be correct?


 I agree, a MAF is always going to be the more accurate way of measuring airflow. It is at least needed to populate the airflow tables. Without it you are giving the ECU rigid numbers that are constantly changing in real life. Although it may work somewhat OK if the approximate airflow numbers are imputed, but how do you or the tuner know these numbers to plug. The whole point of Maestro is to step away from the rigid box tunes and use numbers (in this case airflow) that are specific to the setup in real time (accounting for that 20-35 psi jump you talked about).


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Why do you need to measure airflow? If you're at WOT past your spool point, then target AFR doesn't change with different amount of boost. The same can be said for most other operating conditions as well.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

I know this will be a good discussion between you and Marcus, but my thinking is that air+fuel makes combustion.

When airflow increases how does the car know to compensate with more fuel to keep the AFR ratio? Well the only sensor on my car making fuel trims now is my wideband 02 sensor- that can only make changes after combustion occurs. Wouldn't the MAF plug in flow numbers to the ECU making the tune more responsive?

The stock MAP sensor is the only other air/fuel related sensor and that can only sense up to 22psi - so that doesn't do me any good either.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

20v master said:


> Why do you need to measure airflow?


 Out of many things, the flow tables aren't even scaled far enough, just with Doug's mid-sized big turbo he is riding the edge of these maps ( looked up on a map tracer ) :beer:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

DougLoBue said:


> The stock MAP sensor is the only other air/fuel related sensor and that can only sense up to 22psi - so that doesn't do me any good either.


 We don't even have a MAP sensor (manifold absolute sensor), we ride on a basic pressure sensor that doesn't account for throttle plate angle effect on pressure in the manifold :thumbdown:


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> We don't even have a MAP sensor (manifold absolute sensor), we ride on a basic pressure sensor that doesn't account for throttle plate angle effect on pressure in the manifold :thumbdown:


 Wow I guess you guy know what your doing because I'm lost 
But when i was at water fest 2 years ago the guy that won the dyno contest was from canda and he put down over 700whp.he told me all ways run a maf and to put some sort of fine screen in front off it I forget the name:facepalm:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> We don't even have a MAP sensor (manifold absolute sensor), we ride on a basic pressure sensor that doesn't account for throttle plate angle effect on pressure in the manifold :thumbdown:


 the 2003+ 225hp BEA intake manifold has a MAP sensor bolted under the manifold. I'll ask the QW guys if they have two MAP sensors on those cars or just one and it's relocated. If relocated- mine will soon be in the same spot!


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

DougLoBue said:


> the 2003+ 225hp BEA intake manifold has a MAP sensor bolted under the manifold. I'll ask the QW guys if they have two MAP sensors on those cars or just one and it's relocated. If relocated- mine will soon be in the same spot!


 Same here, if the later models were upgraded to a true map sensor, I will definitely go that route also. 
Good thing you posted this, I was about to weld a bung on my Air to Water intercooler for the pre-manifold pressure sensor :beer:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> We don't even have a MAP sensor (manifold absolute sensor), we ride on a basic pressure sensor that doesn't account for throttle plate angle effect on pressure in the manifold :thumbdown:


 Correct, even if it did, it's not in the manifold, hence it's not a MAP. It's only there for timing to boost correlation and boost control feedback to the N75. If it affected fueling, diodes would cause melted pistons. 



DougLoBue said:


> When airflow increases how does the car know to compensate with more fuel to keep the AFR ratio? Well the only sensor on my car making fuel trims now is my wideband 02 sensor- that can only make changes after combustion occurs. Wouldn't the MAF plug in flow numbers to the ECU making the tune more responsive?


 Combustion is basically constant, and you're not moving any more volume through the MAF than you are the exhaust. The fact that you were above or below target AFR is what directs the ECU to compensate when there is no MAF.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> the 2003+ 225hp BEA intake manifold has a MAP sensor bolted under the manifold. I'll ask the QW guys if they have two MAP sensors on those cars or just one and it's relocated. If relocated- mine will soon be in the same spot!


 You sure about that? :sly:


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

Ya that sounds like the iat sensor.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> You sure about that? :sly:


 I have a photo at home I'll have to post up later. It was a three wire sensor that looked just like our MAP sensor.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> I have a photo at home I'll have to post up later. It was a three wire sensor that looked just like our MAP sensor.


Is it later?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> Is it later?


Haha later as in one week later! - I have the most unorganized Aperture library ever... but I will find it!

Speaking of MAP sensors mine actually blew which was the source of some of my rich idle issues I think. (and hope). New MAP sensor will be here today.

The Hitachi S4 MAF is only a 3.5" outside diameter pipe. While I want to try it I think I'm going to return it to ECS and order the V8 S4 MAF and I think that's a full 4" OD.

A new fueling solution and paint will be my next update


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

DougLoBue said:


> Haha later as in one week later! - I have the most unorganized Aperture library ever... but I will find it!
> 
> Speaking of MAP sensors mine actually blew which was the source of some of my rich idle issues I think. (and hope). New MAP sensor will be here today.
> 
> ...


You are correct on the B6 V8 MAF being 4". BMW 540I's also use the same MAF housing.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> You are correct on the B6 V8 MAF being 4". BMW 540I's also use the same MAF housing.


Noah- do you happen to know the ID of the housing as well?

I plan on posting up measurements of the Hitachi and B6 S4 housings because I couldn't find data on either.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

DougLoBue said:


> Noah- do you happen to know the ID of the housing as well?
> 
> I plan on posting up measurements of the Hitachi and B6 S4 housings because I couldn't find data on either.



The wall thickness of the MAF is ~.125 (3.17mm) The ID ends up being ~3.6" if my memory serves me right from when I was building Hatachi billet units.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> The wall thickness of the MAF is ~.125 (3.17mm) The ID ends up being ~3.6" if my memory serves me right from when I was building Hatachi billet units.


Gracias amigo!

I'm thinking I'll call ECS today and ask to swap them out and pay extra for the V8 S4 MAF.

Sadly the new MAP sensor didn't help. My car still see's 3.4 psi of boost at idle and is adding fuel because of it (or at least that's my understanding of the system). I also get a code for the MAP sensor and some type of ECU power code. I ran out of patience for it last night, but tonight I'll try swapping ECU's with a friend since we both have Maestro to see if I fried my ECU or my wiring is eff'd.

fvck :banghead:

I even got so paranoid that I set the motor to TDC cyn. 1 and pulled the valve cover to make sure my cam timing marks lined up perfectly- they do. At least I didn't botch that job.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

DougLoBue said:


> Gracias amigo!
> 
> I'm thinking I'll call ECS today and ask to swap them out and pay extra for the V8 S4 MAF.
> 
> ...



I would look at your file. Seems like it is requesting boost. I am assuming that the Boost gauge is reading "0" but the ECU is seeing the 3.4. This could be because of a change in resistance in the wiring, seems odd if you did not extend the harness.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> I would look at your file. Seems like it is requesting boost. I am assuming that the Boost gauge is reading "0" but the ECU is seeing the 3.4. This could be because of a change in resistance in the wiring, seems odd if you did not extend the harness.


Boost gauge reads a steady -19/20.

Requested boost is 0, actual boost is 3.4

I did have to extend the harness for the MAP sensor, however, it has worked fine up until now. Even so last night captain Gregory pulled it apart and re-soldered it and that didn't make any difference. I'm using OEM wire/OEM connector from an extra harness I have to extend it so it's not a size difference.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

DougLoBue said:


> Boost gauge reads a steady -19/20.
> 
> Requested boost is 0, actual boost is 3.4
> 
> I did have to extend the harness for the MAP sensor, however, it has worked fine up until now. Even so last night captain Gregory pulled it apart and re-soldered it and that didn't make any difference. I'm using OEM wire/OEM connector from an extra harness I have to extend it so it's not a size difference.



Solder changes resistance. Your best bet is to replace from the connector to the ECU, or use a marine grade crimp and shrink fit connection. I would opt for the first to ensure there is no change resistance. Check the continuity to the ecu as well for the ground. Could just be getting some feedback.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

DeckManDubs said:


> Solder changes resistance. Your best bet is to replace from the connector to the ECU, or use a marine grade crimp and shrink fit connection. I would opt for the first to ensure there is no change resistance. Check the continuity to the ecu as well for the ground. Could just be getting some feedback.


Very good point! I really thought that the "MAP" sensor was faulty but I guess it's never that easy when chasing gremlins!


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

I wish I took a photo of the total insanity I had setup last night in order to diagnose this problem. ECU pins pulled, replaced with direct leads to the MAP & N205 and a few other sensors... It looked terrible.

I put it all back together and Noah you were right- it was something with the tuning file I was running. I was using Tapp's newer basemaps so I'd have access to more maps. He tunes in a bunch of injection/flowmeter/fuel correction into these files- it looks terrible. After setting all values back to 1.0001 things are much better. MAP reads zero at idle and it's not pulling -22 fuel correction. Now I need to pickup a new FPR gauge to see exactly where I'm at.

The Hitachi "3.5" B5 S4 MAF seems to have the following dimensions: 86mm/80mm inlet OD/ID, 84mm outlet OD, center of MAF 73mm ID. I've contacted ECS to exchange this part for the B6 S4 MAF.


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

I thought you had the Aeromotive fpr with gauge 
And I can see what your talking about headaches looks your having a bunch


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

DougLoBue said:


> I wish I took a photo of the total insanity I had setup last night in order to diagnose this problem. ECU pins pulled, replaced with direct leads to the MAP & N205 and a few other sensors... It looked terrible.
> 
> I put it all back together and Noah you were right- it was something with the tuning file I was running. I was using Tapp's newer basemaps so I'd have access to more maps. He tunes in a bunch of injection/flowmeter/fuel correction into these files- it looks terrible. After setting all values back to 1.0001 things are much better. MAP reads zero at idle and it's not pulling -22 fuel correction. Now I need to pickup a new FPR gauge to see exactly where I'm at.
> 
> The Hitachi "3.5" B5 S4 MAF seems to have the following dimensions: 86mm/80mm inlet OD/ID, 84mm outlet OD, center of MAF 73mm ID. I've contacted ECS to exchange this part for the B6 S4 MAF.



:thumbup:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

01ttgt28 said:


> I thought you had the Aeromotive fpr with gauge
> And I can see what your talking about headaches looks your having a bunch


Don't worry, yours will show up soon.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

01ttgt28 said:


> I thought you had the Aeromotive fpr with gauge
> And I can see what your talking about headaches looks your having a bunch


Yup I have an Aeromotive adjustable FPR still and _had _a gauge hooked up to it. Apparently the seals on them like to give out and it leaked everywhere so I'm going to the store to have it warrantied today.

Problems of this motor have been:

Bad Eurodyne flash cable firmware
Head bolt snapped in half during re-torque
New headgaskets wouldn't work with stock bolts, so a new ARP bolt was ordered
Bad clusters
Bad speed sensor
snapped bolt off gear selector rod
trans fluid leak
power steering leak (still haven't fixed, have the parts)
accessory belt tensioner installed incorrectly- belt would fly off
fuel leak- bad o-ring on AN fitting to rail
two bad 02 sensors

I'm sure there are others. You're changing so many things when building a motor, installing a turbo kit, changing the fuel system and that power is stressing parts you have yet to replace/upgrade.

My last motor:
thermostat failed
countless hours/days/weeks spent trying to have Unitronic fix my tune
had to scrap the 70mm TB for a stock unit
blew a hole between two cylinders
Destroyed spark plugs on a weekly basis
my timing belt shredded itself into pieces
3/4 shift fork snapped in half
valve cover gasket and both main seals leaked after being freshly installed. Needed to be replaced again.
shot a valve through a piston and scrapped the whole motor

There were other things too, but those were the major ones.

Destruction shots are always fun:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

The Aeromotive FPR's don't like vibration. Mounting them to the rail, aka the motor, will kill them quickly. I can't tell from your pics how well mounted yours is, but mine has a pretty solid bracket I fabbed up to mount to the fender.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> The Aeromotive FPR's don't like vibration. Mounting them to the rail, aka the motor, will kill them quickly. I can't tell from your pics how well mounted yours is, but mine has a pretty solid bracket I fabbed up to mount to the fender.


The gauges or the FPR's themselves? 

I have a new fuel pump coming in and I'll have to change my whole setup so I'll plan this into it.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

DougLoBue said:


> The gauges or the FPR's themselves?
> 
> I have a new fuel pump coming in and I'll have to change my whole setup so I'll plan this into it.


034 in tank?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> 034 in tank?


Not enough flow :laugh:

Fuelab 41402... flows 608 lph @ 40psi and 418 lph @ 100psi


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

20v master said:


> Don't worry, yours will show up soon.


Don't jinx me


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

DougLoBue said:


> Not enough flow :laugh:
> 
> Fuelab 41402... flows 608 lph @ 40psi and 418 lph @ 100psi


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Over some St. Ankey's this weekend I had a thought and we all love diagrams so lets get some opinions here.

I have my fueling setup currently with the regulator before the rail and one side of the rail capped off. The regulator returns fuel to the tank directly. Should I keep this or have fuel passing over the rail as it conventionally would? I'm leaning towards the conventional option for maximum pressure/flow.

Plan for conventional option: Keep feed going through the frame rail further. terminate into engine bay with a 90' in frame rail connected to to a bulkhead fitting. Mount the pump under the manifold somewhere and send the line up to the drivers side of the rail.


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## 631 Corrado (Jan 14, 2003)

Lol my dog can draw better than that with her poop.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

picture response:


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

You can't have the FPR after the fuel rail, it controls the pressure the injectors see - the FPR is the main regulator, the injectors just dump a given amount of fuel into each cylinder. Jackass


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Stock the FPR is after the rail...


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

l88m22vette said:


> You can't have the FPR after the fuel rail, it controls the pressure the injectors see - the FPR is the main regulator, the injectors just dump a given amount of fuel into each cylinder. Jackass


I already slapped the silliness out of him via text message! We need to make some IT tech support prank calls to keep this guy busy during work hours :laugh:


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

DougLoBue said:


> Stock the FPR is after the rail...


So the tank pump keeps the rail pressurized, and the FPR is _just _for regulating it? Damn, so much for old knowledge...


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Technically stock is in-rail! Both configurations drawn would be ideal if the FPR is mounted at the very end of the rail. I like the way Doug originally has it because it would help in theory alleviate fuel temperature. My 2cents!

*Stock is part of the rail (in-rail) *


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Vortex > Work

:laugh:

I'm still waiting on brown santa to come bring me my toys too...


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

DougLoBue said:


> Vortex > Work
> 
> :laugh:


Thats a fact of life


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## zak2006 (May 5, 2011)

between Vortex, QW, dodge forum, buell forum, and suzuki quad forum I don't get very much work done. don't know what i am gonna do when this student position ends and i get a real job :banghead:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

zak2006 said:


> between Vortex, QW, dodge forum, buell forum, and suzuki quad forum I don't get very much work done. don't know what i am gonna do when this student position ends and i get a real job :banghead:


Network Administrator = I sit behind a computer and frequently go completely insane. 

Network administrator for a large scale machine shop = I sit behind a computer, bull**** in the shop and get parts welded/machined for my car.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

conventional efi has the regulator AFTER the rail. You can have it as far downstream of the rail as you want. The pump builds pressure and the regulator bleeds it after you hit a certain pressure. That is how the stock one works and aeromotive and almost all aftermarket regs.

Putting it BEFORE the rail would mean your injectors are not seeing hardly any pressure at all and your car would run TERRIBLE if at all.......


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

speed51133! said:


> Putting it BEFORE the rail would mean your injectors are not seeing hardly any pressure at all and your car would run TERRIBLE if at all.......


My car runs as it sits now ? I've probably put over 2k on it like this...

Seems to me like it builds pressure in the rail and bleeds off excess fuel when that pressure is reached, but opinions are welcomed- that's why I was asking!


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Well... Fuel pump and paint supplies didn't come in. Did get my MAF in and the housing isn't 4" but I did get it to run okay in my 4" intake pipe. Can't do any tuning due to lack of fuel pump...sucks

Funny that companies couldn't get my parts to me but ManofManyGTs from this forum got my 70mm TB out to me- thanks!

Did get a light cost of primer on the bumper after doing a lot of sanding and filling- just to see where we were at.


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Nice to see some pics :thumbup: sucks that you have had so many problems and you came back with a new build and your still having problems good luck:thumbup:


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Looks good Doug. Cant wait to see it Saturday:beer:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

so a real integral part of my car making it to the GTG got in finally! I just need to get some -10an 90' turns and -10 an to -10 straight cut o-ring & a -6an 90' and this will be all done. 

Next up is coolant relocation or delete. I don't like the idea of delete and I'm pretty sure the coolant ball has to be at the highest part in the system to work properly. My only real choice is to have a custom tank made that is going to be half the size of the old one or less or to delete. *Opinions? * 

FUEL PUMP! 










Modified the brackets a little 










Grew a set of balls, drilled a couple of holes in the car and here we have it: 

The -6 AN 90' pictured below will not be staying the pump will have -10 AN 90's on either side if I can find the right fittings to increase flow around the turn, that and all ports are -10an at this point.


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Do you really have to mount the pump in the engine bay??? 
Can't you run it under the car before the filter??


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

01ttgt28 said:


> Do you really have to mount the pump in the engine bay???
> Can't you run it under the car before the filter??


 No space down there, this is a pretty big pump. Also I think you need a filter before the pump to keep it in good working order. 

Also I was told by Marcus to think of my fuel filter as a surge tank- which makes me feel much better because the damn thing holds 1/2 liter of fluid!


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> No space down there, this is a pretty big pump. Also I think you need a filter before the pump to keep it in good working order.
> 
> Also I was told by Marcus to think of my fuel filter as a surge tank- which makes me feel much better because the damn thing holds 1/2 liter of fluid!


 I found some thing for your coolant delete just needs a little welding and a cap should hold plenty fluid


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

That would be sick!

I saw a mk2 or 3 build using the strut bar as an overfill- very clean!

I just put together a summit cart of AN fittings and custom coolant expansion tank weld on fittings and a 25psi Moroso radiator cap w/ overflow port. I'm going to try and have Ed @ FFE weld me up a mini custom expansion tank right between the fuel pump and the power steering resivour. Maybe I should ask if he can make a custom P/S too ? Make that whole side of the bay look a lot better...


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Why no in-tank Doug?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

l88m22vette said:


> Why no in-tank Doug?


 Well the only E85 compatible intake solution I could find was still in development from Walbro and would only be 400 lph. I was told it might be released sometime in April. My other reason for keeping it in-line is just so I don't have to worry about driving around with less than 1/4 tank. Since my gas gauge doesn't work to begin with and I go through gas faster than the Valdez into Alaska that could have been a bad combo. 

Another new part- 70mm throttle body, thanks ManOfManyGTs - great deal, quick shipping too! 

I had two adapter plates that came with my aftermarket manifold- well neither of them worked for the throttle body. Time to cut, grind, drill & tap in that case. A t bolt & 3" to 2.5" coupler finished it all off. 

Also tonight cleaned up some wires and that's about it. Hope my Summit stuff shipped out :banghead: 

Stock 60mm right, 70mm left


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Wow you weren't kidding when you said it worked out perfectly! Good work man


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

First page edited with complete mod list

Just re-pinned a bunch of busted connectors last night.

Oh and cut a huge hole in the trunk of my car. You guys know that hump in the middle of the spare tire. Yea I don't have that there anymore. I didn't take photos of the finished product, but 16gauge steel, 3M 5200 Marine sealant, rivets, sound deadening and rubberized under-body coating make the trunk flat now. All ready for a fiberglass sub box.

Muffler went flat black last week for less bling effect.

Rear bumper shaving coming up also- supplies purchased!


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Good deal. Can't wait to see the rear


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Never a good idea to cut a unibody! I did the exact same thing in the silver EVO for weight reduction and allowing me to store race tires in the trunk. Well after perfectly welding the hole shut, the rear flex was so unbearable in the back (wobbly when cornering at the track) I had to reinforce the crap out of it, negating any weight saving and the possibility of carrying tires.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Well the metal was very very thin and the hole isn't that large. My goal here isn't for weight savings, but to sink a subwoofer box in there - you know that one I have flying around the back of my car when we go tuning :laugh:

I wouldn't mind re-inforcing it if I have to - or maybe this calls for a half cage install


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

Looka good man, wish i came out to see this in person when i lived in nj.


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

What did the 70mm tb come off of? You build its coming together nicely.:thumbup:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Thanks & not sure- the last one I had was off a Mercedes.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

DougLoBue said:


> Thanks & not sure- the last one I had was off a Mercedes.


 Not sure what it's even off of?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Custom coolant resivour with expansion cap/port and both OEM hookup lines was made by Ed @ FFE.

Also project Michael Jackson has begun. Introductory stages are rough. It's plastidip folks and just for fun- nothing permanent here. We did it in the cold so it kind of came out rough like sandpaper & we really need another gallon or two of the stuff because you can really see the black in a lot of places. I'll get a thread up with more pics outline the process - Greg did this for me on a Thursday night in a couple of hours for under $200.

Did a TTRS cruise/gtg this weekend- met James down there and he got some good rollers of the car. Put about 600 miles of non-stop beating on it this weekend- it was glorious.


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Wow you did the whole car?was it hard?
Played put up some pics didn't even know it was your car 
Till i Seen your engine bay looking good :thumbup:


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

Still running that red hose i see.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

01ttgt28 said:


> Wow you did the whole car?was it hard?
> Played put up some pics didn't even know it was your car
> Till i Seen your engine bay looking good :thumbup:


It wasn't hard but we did a terrible job due to the cold or us being inexperienced. I'm currently debating re-doing it or just doing another gallon on top to make it whiter for the time being.



Audiguy84 said:


> Still running that red hose i see.


I'm not sure if you're aware but the red hose adds an additional 5' Celsius of cooling per inch of red used. The formula is outlined somewhere in this document:

http://arxiv.org/pdf/1204.0162v1.pdf

aka I've been too lazy to just order a few feet of the black coolant hose from Vibrant


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

I've been afraid to run this due to plastic, large turbo close by and heat but it's been sitting on my shelf so why not and I keep a fire extinguisher in the car anyway. When I cut the two pieces off to fit I found out that the plastic is really thick- my Dremel had to really work even with a plastic cutting disc to get through it.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

That fits really good. I'm glad you kept it.


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

Project Michael Jackson :laugh:

The coolant reservoir looks perfect, especially with that fuel pump location! What type of fuel hose is that? Is it just clamped onto the stock fittings before the fuel pump there?

I'd definitely get a turbo blanket, though - my top mount runs hot as f*ck in Summer, even with a turbo blanket and wrapped DP.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Fragola braided black -6 AN - yep just clamped to the stock fuel line location and works great. All other fittings are proper reusable AN fittings.


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Def get a Turbo blanket looking good hows she running:thumbup:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> I've been afraid to run this


Have a part number or know what it is off of?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> Have a part number or know what it is off of?


OEM connector cover off the MK5/6 part number is: 06F 971 824 C 

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/06F_971_824_C/ES281285/

Dealers have them for the same price too- that's where I got mine.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Okay... somebody here please tell me I'm an as*hole:

My car has positive corrections under full boost as seen a few pages back. Increase the boost, corrections increase and the car goes super lean. Initial thought was not enough fuel. I was wrong.

With a MAF hooked up at 20psi I'm pulling 313 grams/sec @ 6800 rpms! Way outside of a regular K04 that the ECU accounts for (IIRC) a max of 220g/sec. I could only imagine what a 30psi pull does...

I can't get the car to idle with the MAF though- plug it in and it stalls out. Well this is where I'm an even bigger idiot. I have a BOV that at idle & driving in vacuum is letting in un-metered air- under boost it's letting out un-metered air.

:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: $400 fuel pump, $100 in fittings, custom coolant res. & a REALLY loud pump for no reason.

So solution: I'm going to need to have my TIAL BOV port cut off and a pipe welded in it's place. Need two bungs welded on- hot side pipe & intake pipe are luckily right next to each other on the drivers side of the motor. Going to need a MadMax valve I think... the real question becomes- can I get this all done by Friday so I can make real boost (over 30psi) for the dyno day? Probably not.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Again, all reasons why I prefer MAFless tunes. And can't you put a stiffer spring in the TIAL BOV so it's closed at idle? Another reason I prefer my adjustable Greddy Type S BOV. Either way, you'll need the fueling capability once you start upping the boost on the E85.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

I've been unable to get this tune in-line running the car MAFless.

I thought about the spring but I think there are too many other situations where the BOV lets air in/out of the system. For example below is the log where I used a MAF, 20psi pull and the rich section highlighted in yellow isn't there when I don't run a MAF- nor is any knock which is only there due to how rich it is.

But beyond the spool up correction issue you can see- minimal 02 correction at high revs, IAT's dropping, nailing the pathetic timing map I have flashed now, hitting it's target lambda perfectly.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

What about switching to a TIAL ALPHA Q which does recirculate?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

18T_BT said:


> What about switching to a TIAL ALPHA Q which does recirculate?


To sum up my 1.8T tech post that's here

I took the valve apart last night and I have a white spring in it. The white spring supports -14 vacuum at idle- I run -20 so I'm going to buy a spring that does that. 

I just got off the phone with TIAL tech support. I'm going to try running a stiffer spring to keep the valve closed at idle- a local performance shop usually has this type of stuff in stock so I'll be going there today. This should get me to idle but I'm going to see a rich area after the valve releases metered air to atmosphere- on the phone tech support said this can be tuned out and Maestro has some acceleration/deceleration fuel tables that I might have to play with I'm guessing...

I've considered running a TIAL recirc valve and I know I can just swap the bottom bodies, but the hose would be super long to get back to the turbo inlet since I run the BOV where the drivers side stock side mount would be if I had one. If I do need to run a DV I'd like to locate it just to the right of the motor- the intercooler pipe and intake pipe cross at a perpendicular angle here and it would be the perfect spot for a DV.

Just trying to work with what I've got before I spend money, pull the car apart and ask Ed to cut/weld for the millionth time!


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

Doug, why on Earth are you not running one of Max's valves? They're pretty freakin' good


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

My turbo kit was built just as I met Max maybe 2-3 years ago now! These last few years have been a huge learning experience- not only from great people willing to share their knowledge like Max & Ed but through trial and error as well. 

Soon my Tial valve will be for sale and a MadMax valve will be in the car. For now I'm running the stiffer spring so the car can idle just fine- it doesn't do well with letting off the throttle during driving though. I'm going to run my 30psi tune for the dyno Saturday- I plan to do two runs with the MAF plugged in and one without just to compare the power gains.

This car with a MAF really goes fast. Caught me off guard twice today- hit 8200 rpms once and pulled 400 g/sec at 7800 rpm


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

I've always stood by using a MAF and DV on our engine, they just seem to be happier and have fewer problems. Synapse also makes a kick-ass DV, widely held by Evo guys to be the best, and the only really worthwhile upgrade...


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

l88m22vette said:


> I've always stood by using a MAF and DV on our engine, they just seem to be happier and have fewer problems. Synapse also makes a kick-ass DV, widely held by Evo guys to be the best, and the only really worthwhile upgrade...


 Yup- he told me to look at that one. $185 isn't a bad price either- but we could customize the Evo valve for half that.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

30lbs, 85 degree day, all wheel drive, no fans


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Congrats buddy! That's some real good numbers being AWHP... 

When the fueling and other bits are ironed out, I plan on revisiting your timing map and really optimize it to take advantage of the fuel. I feel that this setup needs at least 35 psi to come alive ... I see 500+ AWHP in your near future :thumbup:


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

wow great number:thumbup:


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Way to go! Hit 500!


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

dude thats great man. you must be gitty like a like little kid right now


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

Very, very nice, Doug! And without a sorted tune! Looking forward to seeing where this goes - especially with Max on board as an advisor  

How's the spool?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Thanks guys! I'll have to get some of the graphs up- I got them as WinPep files so I can get good screen shots. I was a little disappointed I didn't hit 500 all wheel but I'm happy and know how to get there now!

We did three pulls all 30psi- first with MAF, second without just to see what happens. My suspicions were correct- the MAF connected makes a LOT more power.

The car's running outside the optimal lambda at full power at .95 instead of .85. Also running base timing with no enhancements over the base file. I think with the fueling in order, the MAF connected with the new DV and timing added I might be looking closer to 500awhp and 400 ft/lbs torque.

After that- IE intake cam and water injection and of course lots more boost!


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Video of a run today

http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a44/godsphantasma/?action=view&current=45d0dbb7.mp4


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

Impressive!


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Dear god I can't imagine what that'd feel like on the street - a raped ape on coke, perhaps?


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## ModsTTand (Jul 8, 2009)

Grats! 

ur dyno graph is absolute boost-orgasm :beer: glad it worked out for ya , check your mail box for invitations =500+ hp Club!


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Finally in front of a Windows computer so here are a few comparison graphs.

High quality of the most powerful run:











MAF vs. no MAF - car makes a bunch more power with the MAF. These runs are back to back.











Front wheel drive dyno done the first day I got this turbo kit at FFE: Small port head, stock 225 manifold, Unitronics tune, 24psi, 1.9L displacement vs. current setup but in AWD. A real comparison of this will be dynoing the car in FWD on Ed's dyno again. After some tuning I'll see if he has some free time.


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## 631 Corrado (Jan 14, 2003)

l88m22vette said:


> Dear god I can't imagine what that'd feel like on the street - a raped ape on coke, perhaps?


 


you hit the nail on the head with that statement.i drove tis beast the other day and had to let off cause the tires broke loose at like 75mph... it fast. nuff said.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Still have not got the file for you Doug. I will pull it tonight off the laptop and shoot it over. It is for non-VVT so it is going to be like your old file, a lot less going on.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> Still have not got the file for you Doug. I will pull it tonight off the laptop and shoot it over. It is for non-VVT so it is going to be like your old file, a lot less going on.


 No rush sir! I actually can't get the VVT file to run so I run the car on a standard AWP file also. If I run the VVT file it shoots the o2 correction positive then negative like a seesaw from -20 to +20 until the car stalls.

I was planning on trying it again after I nail down the MAF and fueling on the non-VVT file.


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Any new updates and pics maybe a video of the beast in action


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

This weekend I'll be visiting a friend but:

Cluster is out to Module Master for a rebuild

Evo DV came in and I've gotta take a trip to Max's to modify it to make it a MadMax valve 

Attempting a custom camber plate setup using Mk6 parts that probably involves a cutoff wheel and drill- parts on the way in

Got everything to do a double pinned crank kit:












DV placement concept- have the return facing the turbo. This is on the charge pipe to the right of the head:


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Damn.....:beer::beer::beer:

I've wanted 500hp out of my car ever since I got it. I dont have the money or know-how to go messing around in those forbidden lands. Very nice, Doug. :thumbup:


How deep in the hole are you now?


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

My guess is the new DV will make you the happiest person in the world


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

This isn't good...


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Follow up-

my cheap Crapsman compressor tester is stuck in Cyn 4. Yup. So I was going to delay pulling the head, but it looks like that's happening now. It's only 2-3 hours of work and $100 in parts, but it's a pain in the ass and includes replacing all fresh fluids that I just put in the motor.

fvck me :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:

Positive note- compression was around 200psi in all cylinders.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

I don't even know what to say :what:


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

what the hell is leaking


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Noooooooo, where in the world is the leak coming from? Hopefully it's a gasket not sealing because I'm not even ready for anything else, so I can only imagine how tired you must be of having issues. Let me know if you need a hand, Gaelle is on vacation till Thursday so I can dedicate some solid hours to help out.


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## SteveAngry (Jun 20, 2004)

01ttgt28 said:


> what the hell is leaking


 Head gasket?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

PLAYED TT said:


> I don't even know what to say :what:


Yup- that's why I just threw the tools down and went to bed



01ttgt28 said:


> what the hell is leaking


Looks to be headgasket. Turbo oil return and valve cover are both dry and I don't know of another oil source on the black of the block.

Before the compression tester got stuck I obviously tested compression and re-torqued head studs to 80 ft/lbs which required about 1/8-1/4 turn for each bolt.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Doug, are you using a straight copper gasket or a foam core one? This sucks hardcore man!


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

have you checked the the front cam seals?? looking at your pic of the engine I can see some oil on the front near the cam gear..


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Noah- I'm using the thicker one that Ed recommends. Pretty sure it's one thick layer of copper and two gaskets outside of it.

I haven't checked the cam seals thanks for the idea... That makes sense cause I had them out recently but I did use new ones when replaced. Am I supposed to use sealant there?

I just got home from mothers day shenanigans. I'm gonna sober up a little and try to get this pressure tester out. I do have a backup 12 pack for when failure occurs!


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Okay so this is how you get a stuck ****ty compression tester out.

Step one: buy beer, smoke and grill meat. I did none of the cooking, just the eating and drinking.



















Step two: buy more beer, long 12" drill bit set.










This is what we're working with:

Hose broke off:










This is left stuck in spark plug hole about 5" down:










Drilled holes, cut socket, ratchet + extension = no more stuckness


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

ya there is supposed to be sealant on the corners on the of the ledges.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Audiguy84 said:


> ya there is supposed to be sealant on the corners on the of the ledges.


Thanks! I wonder if I can pop that large cam cap off and slide the seals out/apply sealant without pulling the TB off again? I'm gonna give it a try but TB takes 10 minutes. Pulling the head could have been hours- glad ya spotted that.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Wow that looks like it was a pita. Thank god for beer


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

Hey I work on BMW's which ALL leak oil.. :screwy: I would start with removing the TB cover and inspect the cam gear area, also I know this might sound wierd but also check the area of the cam tensioner chain, leaks can migrate from one side of the engine to the other making it look like its leaking somewhere else when it isn't


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Audiguy84-- you were right. The hall sender cam seal was leaking badly. I removed it and it wasn't damaged so just put some sealant on it and bolted it all back together. Car ran tonight and ripped it around the neighborhood a little. Guess I'll pull the hall sender housing off and check it in a couple of days.

gracias amigo!


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> Audiguy84-- you were right. The hall sender cam seal was leaking badly. I removed it and it wasn't damaged so just put some sealant on it and bolted it all back together. Car ran tonight and ripped it around the neighborhood a little. Guess I'll pull the hall sender housing off and check it in a couple of days.
> 
> gracias amigo!


Your lucky I thought you had to remove the head.I hope you don't have any more problems:thumbup:


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

:thumbup: I'm glad I could be helpful to you. I bet that took a huge weight off your chest huh.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Note:

Running the car with the MAF currently unplugged, it's about 400awhp is starting to hint and the necessity for a front LSD. Around very small bends my inside tire likes to spin through 3rd gear acceleration.

So what should I save for- Haldex Blue/Orange or front LSD. Remember the car is daily driven so I'm not sure about the Orange and Haldex longevity.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

I'd say go for the haldex controller for two reasons:

1) that inside wheel spin is more likely the related to the tire being unloaded. The EDL does a pretty decent job in the front, unless it's not working properly due to a sensor malfunction.

2) with front spin and a performance tuned controller, most of that spin will be aggressively transferred to the rear for some tail action


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

...And haldex competion (no more orange) if you're going to spend the money. Having the rear engaged under braking is to me half of the benefit of upgrading.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> ...And haldex competion (no more orange) if you're going to spend the money. Having the rear engaged under braking is to me half of the benefit of upgrading.



x2

Love my Comp unit! So much more stable under full threshold braking.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> ...And haldex competion (no more orange) if you're going to spend the money. Having the rear engaged under braking is to me half of the benefit of upgrading.


Me too but the concern of mine is running the Haldex all the time night shorten the lifespan?

Also my car doesn't have ESP/EDL/ASR- no traction control at all from the factory.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

DougLoBue said:


> Me too but the concern of mine is running the Haldex all the time night shorten the lifespan?
> 
> Also my car doesn't have ESP/EDL/ASR- no traction control at all from the factory.


Disregard that concern because the controller is not engaging the rear more than the OEM in the majority of driving conditions. 

I know you don't have ESP and ASR but I tought all TT, even early ones had EDL standard?


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Well it would stay engaged under braking ?

Would you at least increase the haldex oil change intervals to 10k instead of 20k or just leave it as is?

I'd much rather go with a haldex controller over a differential. I'd probably save the diff. for the next time I need a clutch.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

DougLoBue said:


> Well it would stay engaged under braking ?
> 
> Would you at least increase the haldex oil change intervals to 10k instead of 20k or just leave it as is?
> 
> I'd much rather go with a haldex controller over a differential. I'd probably save the diff. for the next time I need a clutch.


It would only stay engaged under braking, providing that it was active prior to the braking input. Trolling around at regular speed (not sure how much of that you do lately :laugh and getting on your brakes would not, all of the sudden, engage the rear. 

What the competion unit does is keep it from disengaging, like the stock and blue unit does, if you were transferring power to the rear and decided to go on the brakes. There are several benefit to that, including increased engine braking, stability since the car isn't unsettled with the sudden rear disengagement, and many more like the ability to throttle steer the car through all 3 phases.

Yeah, it would be smart to go for a performance controller before the diff upgrade.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

DougLoBue said:


> Well it would stay engaged under braking ?
> 
> Would you at least increase the haldex oil change intervals to 10k instead of 20k or just leave it as is?
> 
> I'd much rather go with a haldex controller over a differential. I'd probably save the diff. for the next time I need a clutch.



6-10k is my normal fluid change interval. Perhaps excessive, but the fluid is cheap when compared to a new controller/pump. It seems as when the fluid gets excessively beaten up it causes the brushes in the pump to wear out faster.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

DeckManDubs said:


> 6-10k is my normal fluid change interval. Perhaps excessive, but the fluid is cheap when compared to a new controller/pump. It seems as when the fluid gets excessively beaten up it causes the brushes in the pump to wear out faster.


The service interval would depend on how much one manage to get rear engagement and how long you stay on it (creating heat and wear). Someone like Doug may need a 5k interval, someone like me a 30k interval, while everybody else would be somewhere in between these two extremes :laugh:


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Trolling around at regular speed (not sure how much of that you do lately :laugh


3rd & 4th gear 30psi pulls down Rt. 110 count as normal driving. 

You ever see people on that road in the morning? They are crazy- I'm just trying to get away from them!

But seriously the benefits of the Orange controller have always sounded appealing. I'd probably just increase my fluid change intervals to something like every 6 months. In other news I need to get this DV setup... Ordering parts tomorrow.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

DougLoBue said:


> In other news I need to get this DV setup... Ordering parts tomorrow.



Do it. So much better. Group B sounds are worth it alone :laugh:


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

DeckManDubs said:


> Do it. So much better. Group B sounds are worth it alone :laugh:


Ok now I want to hear one in action.....it may not look pretty but if it sounds like a group b car then I'm all in


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

So I snapped the damn helicoil off my dogbone bolt again. Screw helicoils- I'm going with a stainless steel TimeSert insert.

I'm pretty sure the bolt is M10 x 1.5 - can someone confirm? Anyone know how deep the threads go? IIRC it's about 30mm or so.

ETKA online seems to be down or I'd confirm


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

PLAYED TT said:


> .....it may not look pretty but if it sounds like a group b car then I'm all in


You mean ... it may not look cute :laugh:

Maybe Doug can post a picture of it after I did the mods and the polishing. IMO the finished look is decent for a part that goes under the hood, but you can always find a can of bright pink :laugh::laugh::laugh:


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> So I snapped the damn helicoil off my dogbone bolt again. Screw helicoils- I'm going with a stainless steel TimeSert insert.
> 
> I'm pretty sure the bolt is M10 x 1.5 - can someone confirm? Anyone know how deep the threads go? IIRC it's about 30mm or so.
> 
> ETKA online seems to be down or I'd confirm


Just be a man about it and tap up to a larger bolt.  I've had to do this before, and don't trust helicoils in super critical places.


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> You mean ... it may not look cute :laugh:
> 
> Maybe Doug can post a picture of it after I did the mods and the polishing. IMO the finished look is decent for a part that goes under the hood, but you can always find a can of bright pink :laugh::laugh::laugh:


Polished is always good or powder coated pink


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

PLAYED TT said:


> Polished is always good or powder coated pink


Although I have PC them before at low temp, it is not wise to bring a rubber diaphragm to 200 degrees for 25 minutes. Spray paint or rock it polished, although it may not be as cute...


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

I just ordered 2.5" and 1.25" silicone for the charge pipe:










The Intake side will have to be custom fabricated still. Can't find 1.35" aluminum tube.


Max's valve:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

DougLoBue said:


> I just ordered 2.5" and 1.25" silicone for the charge pipe:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Get some 1.375 tubing. The .025" should not give you much of an issue when it comes to getting the rubber fitting over it.


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> Get some 1.375 tubing. The .025" should not give you much of an issue when it comes to getting the rubber fitting over it.


Where from? I'm going to try and drop by a local machine shop during lunch to see if they have anything. I'm dying to get this DV in and change a few things in the tune.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

DougLoBue said:


> Where from? I'm going to try and drop by a local machine shop during lunch to see if they have anything. I'm dying to get this DV in and change a few things in the tune.



www.mcmaster.com

Search this number 89965K412

Multipurpose Aluminum Tubing 1-3/8" OD, 1.277" ID, .049" Wall Thickness, 3'L


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Okay- time for a professional paint job. Seems like someone might be doing me a favor.

Need wild color suggestions. I'm thinking sick tones of blue. Any ideas?


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Brown or cream


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

PLAYED TT said:


> Brown or cream


We are going to have to protect Doug from you until he has decided on his new color :laugh:

You have wet dreams of a cream or brown TT with pink wheels  ... the rest of us have nightmares about it! :sly:


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Bahahahaha :laugh:


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

DougLoBue said:


> Okay- time for a professional paint job. Seems like someone might be doing me a favor.
> 
> Need wild color suggestions. I'm thinking sick tones of blue. Any ideas?


:wave:

OR, I saw a 3.2 once that was Dolomie Gray with blue interior. However, the later blue was door cards instead of whole lower section, and it seemed a bit darker than the early crazy blue interior. Combo looked sick...


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> Okay- time for a professional paint job. Seems like someone might be doing me a favor.
> 
> Need wild color suggestions. I'm thinking sick tones of blue. Any ideas?



What happened to the plastidip?


----------



## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

DougLoBue said:


> Okay- time for a professional paint job. Seems like someone might be doing me a favor.
> 
> Need wild color suggestions. I'm thinking sick tones of blue. Any ideas?



Nogaro Blue?


----------



## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Wild you say 





































I like this one it different


----------



## SteveAngry (Jun 20, 2004)

How about Mexico blue or do you want something darker?


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

20v- the plastidip is still on the car. It's far from perfect and has its issues when I pull it off I plan on updating the thread I
Started. In short you can't clean it. It stains and doesn't come out. 



SteveAngry said:


> How about Mexico blue or do you want something darker?


That was my favorite out of my friends recommendations from Friday night...


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Well if you insist on blue go with BMW Leguna Seca 








I would still go brown


----------



## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

how about pearlescent blue used on the passat r36?


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Colors??? How about 911 sport classic's almost blue...



















but then I'm a bit biased. 










cheers


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

excited and bummed all at the same time...

excited- got my Mad Max valve in, I can run a MAF now!

excited- front bumper fully shaved and new rear bumper both went to professional paint

excited- had module masters re-do my cluster- works great now. Bummed- it tells me how much gas I really use :thumbdown:

bummed- my injectors are spraying 18ms between 5500-7k - calculated IDC's 100% - I'm out of fuel. I made an offer on some 2200cc Bosch EV14's last night. I suspect double the injector is good enough


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

What base fuel pressure are you running at? You don't want more than 14ms at 7K rpms (to keep IDC @ 80%, which takes into account dead and reaction time).


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> What base fuel pressure are you running at? You don't want more than 14ms at 7K rpms (to keep IDC @ 80%, which takes into account dead and reaction time).


 60psi - just over 4bar

I have ID1000's which as you know are really 900cc @ 3bar, [email protected]

The 2200cc's I'm looking to get are rated at [email protected] - which I'd like to go back down to.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

And this is all on E85?


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> And this is all on E85?


 Yep E85.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Ouch, 18 ms up top is no bueno. The last log you sent me had you maxing out at 15.5 at 7K which is about 90% IDC (not ideal but acceptable). At 18 ms at 7K, you're looking at 108 % IDC and that's alarming. 

Big injectors could be one of the last missing piece of the puzzle. Running at 3bar is much more comforting to me when you're pushing 30 psi of boost and don't know the exact flow specs on your rail.


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Max I probably should have just gave ya a call, could you reason the below to me? It's a post I made on the 1.8T technicals. 



DougLoBue said:


> I run E85 on my ID1000's and I'm out of fuel around 27/28psi- not so thrilled with that.
> 
> I'm looking at these Bosch EV14 2200cc injectors (PN: 0 280 158 821). My issue is that the for sale ad is confusing to me. The title states high impedance but, in the description the "coil resistance" is listed as "9.1 ohms / low impedance".
> 
> ...


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

DougLoBue said:


> Max I probably should have just gave ya a call, could you reason the below to me? It's a post I made on the 1.8T technicals.


 They are high impedance. 

Low impedance (peak and hold) injectors operates usually in the 1-4 Ohm range to stay open and usually need about 5-6 amp to trigger them. 

Anything as high as 9.1 Ohm resistance is considered a high impedance injector that only needs about 1 amp to trigger. 

I believe they made a typo in the spec sheet, that's all (I'd just call Bosh and confirm).:beer:


----------



## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Can't wait to see when you get it sorted and get another dyno I bet you will hit 500whp


----------



## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Oh and this time I want a dyno video


----------



## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

Lookin great there Doug... 

Mr. Aurelius or Doug...check QW...question about a car for you...


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Went for a ride in Dougs TT last night....weeeeeeee


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

:laugh:


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> Went for a ride in Dougs TT last night....weeeeeeee


Haha it was a fun weekend :thumbup:

Nice to see guys!


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

2200 CC's are going in now, swapping electrical connectors next and tuning:

They were 15mm shorter than the ID1000's so I just drilled new holes in the mounting brackets- screw adapters.


----------



## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

Hhhmmm, I think I should be okay on 1000CC since I don't think we'll ever get E85 - are they spoken for, or can I take them? How was the idle with Maestro? I'm not overly pleased with the 870CC file...


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

jbrehm: My idle was perfect with the ID1000's on E85 and gasoline. I'll shoot you a PM I do have them for sale.

All wired up:










Tuning for these is a learning experience - aka requires lots of :beer: & :banghead:


----------



## thelmuffingirl (Oct 28, 2007)

plasti dip :laugh: i remember when i first saw your car pull in to the awe event, i was like o0o0o0o a white TT?!?!? but, i was mistaken  never the less, car was awesomely fast and i liked reading this thread!


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

i like your valve cover vent


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

thelmuffingirl said:


> plasti dip :laugh: i remember when i first saw your car pull in to the awe event, i was like o0o0o0o a white TT?!?!? but, i was mistaken  never the less, car was awesomely fast and i liked reading this thread!


Haha thanks- it was nice to see you guys last night- thanks for taking the trip to Long Island!



18T_BT said:


> i like your valve cover vent


Me too - it paints my DV a nice shade of brown :laugh:



So I told my friend that painted the bumpers that the car is brilliant black. My car isn't, it's raven black- I didn't find the sticker till after they were done. Opps :banghead:

Do I care? A little, but not really. You can tell when using a flash or in very bright light. Spoke with him and he's just going to spray the whole car for me in the future. For now it's nice to have a shaved front bumper.

sticker in manual:










Can't tell in low lighting:










Huge paperweight off the rear:










At night using a flash is bad news:


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> Huge paperweight off the rear:


Didn't take off the tow hook too while you're down in there? :laugh:


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> Didn't take off the tow hook too while you're down in there? :laugh:


You know I'll be needing that soon! :facepalm:


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

This sweet arial shot only cost $55- deal if you ask me! :laugh: 

For the record, I was not only tuning my car with a laptop but also texting on one cellphone and talking on the other. haha, kidding, but not really.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Thats actually an excellent shot, you should frame it and the ticket together


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

DougLoBue said:


> This sweet arial shot only cost $55- deal if you ask me! :laugh:
> 
> For the record, I was not only tuning my car with a laptop but also texting on one cellphone and talking on the other. haha, kidding, but not really.


 
Nice :thumbup:


----------



## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> This sweet arial shot only cost $55- deal if you ask me! :laugh:
> 
> For the record, I was not only tuning my car with a laptop but also texting on one cellphone and talking on the other. haha, kidding, but not really.


 Wow nice shoot :thumbup: I guess you fixed the fuel pump???


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

01ttgt28 said:


> Wow nice shoot :thumbup: I guess you fixed the fuel pump???


 Car is on stands with the fuel pump out for warranty work and the suspension shipped out for trade- traffic camera tickets take a few weeks to get to ya


----------



## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

Ooooh, what suspension are you putting on? 

I can't believe it took you this long to take the 35lb weight off the rear! :laugh:


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

jbrehm said:


> Ooooh, what suspension are you putting on?


 It will be much more street-able than the H&R RSS's I had. I had a really hard time letting go of them as I know I will never find a better handling suspension for this car. Unfortunately my commute to work is pretty much driving 10 miles down a road full of what could be called speed bumps and my car/body is not handling it well. When James visited he followed in a _much _softer suspension car and I think they had a hard time with it!

More go fast parts on the way too though :laugh:

500awhp goal, back in the crosshairs


----------



## StateSideS3 (Apr 13, 2007)

DougLoBue said:


> This sweet arial shot only cost $55- deal if you ask me! :laugh:
> 
> For the record, I was not only tuning my car with a laptop but also texting on one cellphone and talking on the other. haha, kidding, but not really.


 thats actually a great quality shot lol


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Some parts arrived today:

KW V3's










Snow Performance stage 3 MGP MAX water injection controller
42 Draft Designs manifold & McMaster push-lock fittings - Thank you John @ 42DD!


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Looking good! I have a pre-TB nozzle for you to start, and I should have the custom direct ports nozzles soon.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

So this is the how many'eth set of coilovers you've had on this car?


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Looking good! I have a pre-TB nozzle for you to start, and I should have the custom direct ports nozzles soon.


 Thanks Max!



20v master said:


> So this is the how many'eth set of coilovers you've had on this car?


 This will be my 4th :screwy:

HPA SHS - super soft
H&R Streets - perfect, had miles on them so sold them
H&R RSS - can't beat them on a track, bad for NY daily driving
KW V3's - results in a few weeks time


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

So are the RSS's available?  The KW's aren't "stiff" enough for me, but should be better on the rough streets.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

20v master said:


> So are the RSS's available?  The KW's aren't "stiff" enough for me, but should be better on the rough streets.


 They are on John's car now, John was looking for stiffer with the better roads in his area, while Doug was looking for more comfort. Swap made in heaven!


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> So are the RSS's available?  The KW's aren't "stiff" enough for me, but should be better on the rough streets.


 Do you have the V3's as well?


----------



## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

I'm interested in hearing your thoughts on the V3s, Doug - especially as compared to the RSS. 




20v master said:


> So are the RSS's available?  The KW's aren't "stiff" enough for me, but should be better on the rough streets.


 I've got some


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

jbrehm said:


> I've got some


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

jbrehm said:


> I'm interested in hearing your thoughts on the V3s, Doug - especially as compared to the RSS.


 In a couple of weeks when I have the car back on the road I'll definitely post a review. Do some back to back seat time in Max's car vs my car maybe.

I thought the H&R SS's were kind of their comfort line of coilover that used a twin tube strut design?


----------



## Malant (Aug 30, 2004)

20v master said:


> So are the RSS's available?  The KW's aren't "stiff" enough for me, but should be better on the rough streets.


 I had the V3's, they did give me the feeling that there could have been some improvement if they were a bit stiffer which is why I traded with Doug. I put H&R Front and Rear Sways on with the V3's and it helped significantly stiffen them up. Car felt pretty awesome, helped reduce body roll significantly, made them into much more of a performer. The V3's can also be improved by ditching the rear progressive spring for a linear version. 

Now that I have the RSS's I switched back to factory sways and the car is definitely much harsher, car sticks to the ground better but I do feel everything, and feel it HARD. The V3's are a great daily driven coilover that is performance oriented, with sway bars it makes it a very solid competitor to the RSS, however nothing really touches the control you have with the RSS's, but you sacrifice a LOT of ride quality to achieve this. 

PS- Still have that bumper if you need it! 



Marcus_Aurelius said:


> They are on John's car now, John was looking for stiffer with the better roads in his area, while Doug was looking for more comfort. Swap made in heaven!


 Swap was made in heaven! I miss the V3's aspect of comfort, however the roads around me make it not to bad. As Doug has harsher roads he can also adjust the coilovers for much more comfort for his weekly commutes, then adjust the rebound and dampening for track weekends etc. The V3's can be used well in many different scenarios. Its not dedicated full race all the time. 



jbrehm said:


> I'm interested in hearing your thoughts on the V3s, Doug - especially as compared to the RSS.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Snow Performance stage 3 MGP MAX water injection controller 








[/QUOTE] 

You should get the snow performance fail safe with waste gate solinoid I ordered mine today 
It cost $260 shipped :thumbup:


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

01ttgt28 said:


> You should get the snow performance fail safe with waste gate solinoid I ordered mine today
> It cost $260 shipped :thumbup:


 Good move :thumbup: 

He doesn't need any failsafe other than the E85 that he runs. I sold my failsafes after converting to ethanol, its knock suppression is so great that people sometime think their knock sensors have failed after the switch.


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

My "max VE table under knock" is configured for half the max loads. It literally closes the TB to 50% under knock in High RPM's. I have logs of it when my fuel pump was dying. It's a cool feature.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

DougLoBue said:


> My "max VE table under knock" is configured for half the max loads. It literally closes the TB to 50% under knock in High RPM's. I have logs of it when my fuel pump was dying. It's a cool feature.


 Cool safety feature although you don't need it! There is a difference between actual knock and timing corrections. You'll soon realize that you hardly can get E85 to knock (picked up by the knock sensors voltage readings) when AFR is in check. Ethanol will knock from beeing overly rich, and I'm assuming from being overly lean as well (although I've never seen it). The ECU timing corrections are a factor of many things that includes inputs from IAT, EGT, coolant temperature, and knock sensor activity. It is common for people to think that whenever they see corrections that there is actual knock but it is not necessarely the case. In your situation Doug, with your E85 powered monster, most corrections are going to be from heat and coolant temp unless your AFR is really out of line. :beer:


----------



## Malant (Aug 30, 2004)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Cool safety feature although you don't need it! There is a difference between actual knock and timing corrections. You'll soon realize that you hardly can get E85 to knock (picked up by the knock sensors voltage readings) when AFR is in check. Ethanol will knock from beeing overly rich, and I'm assuming from being overly lean as well (although I've never seen it). The ECU timing corrections are a factor of many things that includes inputs from IAT, EGT, coolant temperature, and knock sensor activity. It is common for people to think that whenever they see corrections that there is actual knock but it is not necessarely the case. In your situation Doug, with your E85 powered monster, most corrections are going to be from heat and coolant temp unless your AFR is really out of line. :beer:


 Very cool safety feature, I would have never thought about that. Max do you think that feature might be useful if he gets a bad batch or misadvertised tank of E85? If its already built into the software there's no reason not to run it. 

PS - An E85 station just became operational right between work and my house.... I think next tank I may tank the plunge as my hardware is already ready for it!


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

NOT my map but this is an example I found on the web of the map I'm using to do this:

http://i.imgur.com/vXQ2P.png


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Is this taken with actual knock from the knock sensor voltage activity or simply referencing to timing correction to numb things down? 

If it's not using actual knock as a reference to set maximum VE, you're potentially leaving power on the table by being agressive with this on E85.


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

It's my understanding it's taking knock sensor readings- that's the only time I've seen it used at least.

There are different tables for timing corrections.


----------



## pintumoto (Aug 12, 2012)

Very good job!


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Doug, you interested in running at the next track day? It is in October @ Lime Rock with the BMW club. Got to finish off my r-compounds for the end of the season.


----------



## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> Doug, you interested in running at the next track day? It is in October @ Lime Rock with the BMW club. Got to finish off my r-compounds for the end of the season.


What a track day and its near ma


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> Doug, you interested in running at the next track day? It is in October @ Lime Rock with the BMW club. Got to finish off my r-compounds for the end of the season.


Running my car? If it run's I'm in. I'm not sure my new suspension setup will be up to spec but we'll see!

Just got my fuel pump back from warranty work yesterday. Have a lot of work to do still- progress has been a little slow lately...


----------



## winTTer (Jul 29, 2004)

wow Doug, just caught myself up on all your progress. I'm back in NY for the next few months. I wanna see this beast! Looks sick :thumbup:


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

winTTer said:


> wow Doug, just caught myself up on all your progress. I'm back in NY for the next few months. I wanna see this beast! Looks sick :thumbup:


Thanks James! I should be back on the road soon, just took it off for a few new toys.


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

-KW V3's are all in 
-Purchased used headlight adjusters and installed them as my originals broke. 
-Water injection is setup with the exception of the injector wires and mounting- I got tired. Considering ordering a EuroDash for the controller to sit in. 
-New VC gasket and cam seals in again to try and stop this random leak. 
-6AN Fuel lines ran from tank to under hood- no leaks. Surge tank planning began and I need to drive to FFE to have them weld it. 
-Custom power steering tank almost done- just need a bigger drill chuck then done. 

Need to set a couple things up still. Just about back to driving this thing. I started to flush mount my Kicker EQ and then get the entire interior back together. Trying to be done in the next week or so for plenty of tuning/tweaking time before the drive to H20. Hope to make it this year!


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Nice :thumbup: you could all ways remove the ashtray if you don't smoke and take apart the controller and screw it in where the ashtray sits sorry for any bad spelling I have been drinking vodka and I'm kinda f#$k up


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Haha nice Rick! I would have popped it down there but my EQ is there already:











So had my job do some milling/tapping on the oil catch can turned power steering resivour.










Installed in the car:




























An ideal but maybe not possible fuel pump location:










Resulting space for a surge tank:











I made a few new 1/4" NPT ports for direct vacuum connections: From 3pm counter clockwise: DV, Hobbs switch (not in yet, for fuel pump), AFPR, WM controller & boost gauge, brake booster

Note fuel lines aren't permanent, only like this temporarily until I have a surge tank welded up.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Not sure if anyone has mentioned it, but that Aeromotive regulator won't like being attached to the engine. The vibrations make them fail. You were better off with it mounted to the frame/fender like before.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> Not sure if anyone has mentioned it, but that Aeromotive regulator won't like being attached to the engine. The vibrations make them fail. You were better off with it mounted to the frame/fender like before.


 
Yeah I think I've heard that before. How about mounting it to the battery box? There isn't much else over there for me to mount it to.


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## Late__Apex (Dec 2, 2007)

I'd be a bit apprehensive about the fuel pump in the wheel well - even if the liner is there. One good road gator and you could be doing a Ghost Rider imitation.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Why not remove the fender and mount it under? Or inside the fender liner? Seems like it would fit...


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> Yeah I think I've heard that before. How about mounting it to the battery box? There isn't much else over there for me to mount it to.


 Why not right on the passenger shock tower, since your return line is right there?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

I'm sure this pump location will be controversial. I'll get more photos when I'm back home. 

6an from filter/stock return to surge tank.
10an to pump
6an pump to rail
6an rail to regulator and back into surge tank

Still need to setup a hobb's switch for the high pressure setting of the fuel pump. I'm up state NY for the weekend but this thing is a few little things and a bunch of nights of tuning away from H2o. All major work done. I'm really excited--


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

This mounting location should be controversial, and as a friend I don't approve of it! It almost feels like you're trying to pull a reverse Ford Pinto reenactment, or go back to your former Village Idiot days. With your know-how, I'm sure you can find of a better location for it, especially when it's something you're designing from scratch and don't have any rule restriction dictating the pump location.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> This mounting location should be controversial, and as a friend I don't approve of it! It almost feels like you're trying to pull a reverse Ford Pinto reenactment, or go back to your former Village Idiot days. With your know-how, I'm sure you can find of a better location for it, especially when it's something you're designing from scratch and don't have any rule restriction dictating the pump location.


 x2 

Pump and lines need to be within the crash protection zone but outside passenger compartment unless a fire system is installed in the car. 

Doug, did you try running it up over the cowl or relocating the batter so you have room on the passenger side for the surge tank?


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

Whoa, I have to strongly agree with Max here - that looks like a picture from the bagged and stanced crowd! :laugh:


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

Thirded Doug....unless you are going to encase that in a reinforced tiatanium with some unobtanium supports... 

No joke. I'd be scared. Not trying to be a jerk or anything like that....but as a friend. 

Joe


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## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

Fuel system looks a lot better this time around Douglas. Just move that pump.


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## ModsTTand (Jul 8, 2009)

All this outstanding effort is getting pretty fruitful :thumbup: i wish i'm States side and be at h2o  

May i request finding a better location for that fuel pump and moving it away from ur front crash bar ...! 

We care for ur safety and i'm sure you'll say the same for us . 

Wishing you good luck .


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## roadking90 (Feb 13, 2012)

IS this a 180 or 225 motor?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Doug has an early AMU 225 quattro, his car is even an earlier production than my 01 narrowband since his car came with none of the traction control shenanigans that became standard later on.


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## roadking90 (Feb 13, 2012)

So how far would my 2002 TT Quattro 225 AMU be from qetting the amount of hp he has using the same setup without the AEB heads? I really want some but doubt I will be able to afford one. How much do they run?


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

roadking90 said:


> So how far would my 2002 TT Quattro 225 AMU be from qetting the amount of hp he has using the same setup without the AEB heads? I really want some but doubt I will be able to afford one. How much do they run?


 About 250awhp 2 motors and $15k


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

PLAYED TT said:


> About 250awhp 2 motors and $15k


 Skip the second motor and do it right the first time!

I don't add up how much it costs me anymore :facepalm:


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

DougLoBue said:


> I don't add up how much it costs me anymore :facepalm:


 Haha, if any of us BT guys _did_ keep track of what we spend, half of us would disappear from the forums due to suicide, or spousal murder.


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## roadking90 (Feb 13, 2012)

No, what I mean us hoe much are AEB heads? And using the same setup as he is using without new heads, what kind of hp would I be looking at?


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> I don't add up how much it costs me anymore :facepalm:


 Agreed. Sometimes I think about what I could get selling everything I've collected and stashed, but it wouldn't reach near what I've spent. :laugh:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

roadking90 said:


> No, what I mean us hoe much are AEB heads? And using the same setup as he is using without new heads, what kind of hp would I be looking at?


 AEB heads can range between 200-500 depending on seller/condition/what they come with.

One thing to remember is these heads all are from 1998/1999. If they don't have high milage on them they have time working against them. You'll need a machine shop to disassemble the head and replace worn parts. Seats will need to be replaced or cut and valve guides will need to be replaced too. Once in there it would be stupid not to do a valve train upgrade. The whole process can cost you a couple grand in parts and labor.



20v master said:


> Agreed. Sometimes I think about what I could get selling everything I've collected and stashed, but it wouldn't reach near what I've spent. :laugh:


 The worst is adding it all up. Adding in current value of a stock car and then thinking about the 911 turbo you could have owned that would probably out preform the TT in every way and be more reliable too.


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> The worst is adding it all up. Adding in current value of a stock car and then thinking about the 911 turbo you could have owned that would probably out preform the TT in every way and be more reliable too.


 
Which is why I look at a silly man in the mirror everyday. Love the 911, but I also love my TT now..:banghead: 


Please keep pushing the envelope so that all of my modifications turn out cheaper in the end. Your car is great :laugh::beer:


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

The worst is adding it all up. Adding in current value of a stock car and then thinking about the 911 turbo you could have owned that would probably out preform the TT in every way and be more reliable too.[/QUOTE] 

Yeah I have spent over $20,000 blew it up still don't really know why and dropped another $1,800 a couple 
Days ago on parts it def a very expensive hobby . The only bad thing about the 911 is after u go from a 500hp car 
Nothing ever the same


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

01ttgt28 said:


> The only bad thing about the 911 is after u go from a 500hp car
> Nothing ever the same


 THIS X 10000000. I've been so swamped at work that I haven't wrenched on either project in over a year. The plan is taking way longer than expected, but I've slowly started making progress again.


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

20v master said:


> THIS X 10000000. I've been so swamped at work that I haven't wrenched on either project in over a year. The plan is taking way longer than expected, but I've slowly started making progress again.


 It takes time it aint that easy to hit 450 500 it takes time and money and lots of both:thumbup:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

01ttgt28 said:


> It takes time it aint that easy to hit 450 500 it takes time and money and lots of both:thumbup:


 I've already hit it with a 1.8T, just not in a TT.  The more time you have, the less money it takes.


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## roadking90 (Feb 13, 2012)

So hoe much hp does the AEB heads add? I'm trying to get between 425-475 hp. Will I have to have the heads to get that kind of power?


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

roadking90 said:


> So hoe much hp does the AEB heads add? I'm trying to get between 425-475 hp. Will I have to have the heads to get that kind of power?


 No, you don't HAVE to have it, but it'll make it easier by a few psi of boost. There is no flat answer of "it adds xx HP." It depends on intake manifold, throttle size, piping size, pressure drop to the entire boost path, intake valve size, port work, boost level, fuel type, etc that determine how much it'll help. Air flow is air flow. Any reduction in turbulence or pressure drop will result in more efficiency from your turbo and more air in the cylinders. Larger, more smoothly flowing ports will do just that, up to a point of too big and you lose velocity.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

DougLoBue said:


> The worst is adding it all up. Adding in current value of a stock car and then thinking about the 911 turbo you could have owned that would probably out preform the TT in every way and be more reliable too.


 
^^^ This!!!


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

01ttgt28 said:


> The only bad thing about the 911 is after u go from a 500hp car
> Nothing ever the same


 Pretty sure a 911 Turbo with a chip & straight exhaust (very easy on that car) would put down about or more than 450/500whp....


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

DougLoBue said:


> Pretty sure a 911 Turbo with a chip & straight exhaust (very easy on that car) would put down about or more than 450/500whp....


 Maestro is only like 1800 for 996 Turbo's  I am watching the market very closely for the right 2002 996 X-50. 

Just want to avoid one with the ceramic brakes and that has had the coolant system fix already done. 

Front rotors & pads are 15k+ for Ceramics. The coolant system runs about 7-10k.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

DougLoBue said:


> One thing to remember is these heads all are from 1998/1999. If they don't have high milage on them they have time working against them. You'll need a machine shop to disassemble the head and replace worn parts. Seats will need to be replaced or cut and valve guides will need to be replaced too. Once in there it would be stupid not to do a valve train upgrade. The whole process can cost you a couple grand in parts and labor.


 IE seems to have the best head testing/cleaning process, they get into the oil passages, sodablast, and generally go above and beyond hot tanking, valve job, assembly, etc. If you know someone as intensive, use them, but IE is a major sponsor/tech of our forum :thumbup:


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Yo what's up any updates its been a while ???


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

well with everything going on in the tri state area i bet i might be a week or so till we hear from them... unless he checks here with his phone.


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Audiguy84 said:


> well with everything going on in the tri state area i bet i might be a week or so till we hear from them... unless he checks here with his phone.


I hope all is well out their and where going to get another hurrican weds thursday :facepalm:


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## ModsTTand (Jul 8, 2009)

May he and every person come out this awful hurricane safe and sound .


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

^^^ We texted each after the storm, no real damage for both of us! Houses are intact and cars are dry, just no power and serious fuel shortage in the area. :beer:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Oh, and Doug picked up a B5 A4 daily driver that he is doing restoration work on... but I'm sure he'll post about it shortly.


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

I hear that gas is selling for $10 a gallon is that true???


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## StateSideS3 (Apr 13, 2007)

01ttgt28 said:


> I hear that gas is selling for $10 a gallon is that true???


No
Just extremely scarse and if there is a gas station with gas get ready to wait 3+ hours in line


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## ModsTTand (Jul 8, 2009)

Glad to know both of you gents are safe , sound and DRY 😏. 

Fuel prices will shot up that's I am sure about although it should be regulated during this critical situation ! No need for extra stress factor .


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Thanks everyone- we're doing well. My area is pretty far north & low density so I probably won't see power for another week or so at my place. We do now own a pretty decent sized generator though! My mom's Fiance got power at his place back so I'm staying there this week.

Friday night I decided to take a trip up to Vermont to Harpoon Brewery, tried to stop by Noah's in Mass but they were wrapped up in a project I think! Swung through New Paltz to visit my step brother who was playing a show locally. 700 mile road trip during a gas crisis haha. Brought back 20 gallons of gas in Home Depot Homer buckets :laugh:

As far as the projects go: bought the A4 and it needed some work (cam chain tensioner amongst other timing mechanical items). The TT needs valve stem seals so I pulled the heads off both of them and stuck them in my trunk to bring down to Ed @ FFE to do seals on both of them and I'll do the rebuilds. Then we had the hurricane and he was at MIR this weekend so hopefully sometime this week I'll get the work done.

Complete A4 plans are: Maestro (already purchased & car is wideband from factory), Emissions deletes (already done), coilovers, wheels, DV. Maybe a downpipe. Done. There is a K04 sitting on my garage floor. It's tempting but I'm going to hold out.

With the A4 as a daily driver/looker. The TT will be changed to toy/track status and I'm not sure what direction I'm going to head in with it. Thoughts of custom suspension, stroker kit, center feed custom intake manifold and standalone have all come to mind. Recommendations are welcome! Spring is when the action will happen and I'll probably let it sit the majority of the Winter.


Two 1.8T's without heads... why would I ever own something that just works?


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

Well thats good that you guys got through the storm alright. I have family in farmingville and kingsville both made it through aswell.. But i have a friend that lives in nyc area and haven't heard from him.


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

So I'm really curious about your fuel pressure regulator location. In the beginning you had it mounted in the wrong location and then you moved it to the right location and the it looks like you moved it back to the wrong location again. The FPR should always be mounted after the fuel rail NOT before. You were having various fueling issues and I can't believe that has been overlooked. Not saying that the source of any of your problems. Only one person pointed out that it should always be after the rail and not before it. Are you still running the FPR before the rail?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

There really isn't a right or wrong location from what I've learned. With that said I do prefer it after the rail- which is how it is now. My pump feeds the drivers side of the rail and passenger side is the return to fpr and back to the surge tank.


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## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

Congrats on the B5 Doug! Sorry we could not meet up, running around and such trying to get a customers car all dialed in kept us up to the wee hours of the morning. I forgot how much of a PITA MK4's 12v's were! So much extra crap!

Next time your up we will def have to hit up some of the local roads, that B5 will do well in the rally stages  Make sure your heated seats work


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> There really isn't a right or wrong location from what I've learned. With that said I do prefer it after the rail- which is how it is now. My pump feeds the drivers side of the rail and passenger side is the return to fpr and back to the surge tank.


I would definitely run it the way you have it set up now. According to what I learned at the Bosch school the fuel pressure won't be accurate with the regulator placed in front of the fuel rail. Every single car I see go thru the shop all have the FPR after the rail or on the end of it. :thumbup:Anyway...Awesome build and good luck with the B5!


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Twopnt016v said:


> I would definitely run it the way you have it set up now. According to what I learned at the Bosch school the fuel pressure won't be accurate with the regulator placed in front of the fuel rail. Every single car I see go thru the shop all have the FPR after the rail or on the end of it. :thumbup:Anyway...Awesome build and good luck with the B5!


Interesting that Bosch teaches it that way!

Thanks!


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## BeasTToftheEast (Sep 20, 2007)

As far as intake manifolds go I haven't heard anything creating more buzz than the SEM unit


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Howe's everything up your way is gas still scares????


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## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

Twopnt016v said:


> I would definitely run it the way you have it set up now. According to what I learned at the Bosch school the fuel pressure won't be accurate with the regulator placed in front of the fuel rail. Every single car I see go thru the shop all have the FPR after the rail or on the end of it.


 x2


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

01ttgt28 said:


> Howe's everything up your way is gas still scares????


 Yeah everything on LI is pretty much back to normal at least for me. A lot of south shore coastal homeowners have lost their homes unfortunately, fortunately I live on the north shore coast-line.




TTguy30 said:


> As far as intake manifolds go I haven't heard anything creating more buzz than the SEM unit


 
Right now I have an OBX, RMR knockoff. The idea is to convert it to center-feed which is a custom manifold Ed @ Force Fed makes. Better air distribution per cylinder and would probably better support my direct port water injection setup as well.

Best photo I can find as an example:

My concept is to convert the RMR manifold to center-feed, so I would be using the short runners and my fuel rail setup - ect.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Well I'm getting back to business. Attempting to make it to an autocross on March 24th. Debatable if it's happening. 

--Head has new valve stem seals from Force Fed. New gaskets/seals all around of course. 

--Put the maximum amount of spring force on my Tial WG by combining the three stiffest springs- it's now set for 26psi. 

--For those of you that hated the random red coolant line under my hood- it's gone now. Black Vibrant line in it's place. 

--Ditching the switchable boost controller- using one valve set for 30psi and going to try and make one solid tune. 

Who wants to polish my manifold? I'm incompetent at this process. :thumbdown:


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## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

Doug, why polish? You should sand blast the manifold to allow for better heat dissipation :beer:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Doug, why polish? You should sand blast the manifold to allow for better heat dissipation :beer:


 :thumbup: 

Function > form


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## esoxlucios (Sep 17, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> Well I'm getting back to business . . .


 Doug, I haven't read the whole thread, so I apologize if this has been addressed, but are those water/meth bungs in the intake mani? 

Reason I ask is because I would surmise in that configuration all four cylinders wouldn't get equal amount (_i.e., _the injectors would instead need to be located in each runner). Viewing your engine bay from the front, all the intake air is rushing in from the right. Therefore, the mist being injected by the injectors closest to the inflow would get pushed assymetrically, and subject to turbulance, to other than the desired intake runners. I guess the best way to test is to see if any cylinders pull more timing than others. But, if you're running E85, which I think I read on another of your threads, you probably don't get much CF, anyway? 

*Edit*: never mind— just read your earlier post ("Right now I have an OBX, RMR knockoff. The idea is to convert it to center-feed which is a custom manifold Ed @ Force Fed makes. Better air distribution per cylinder and would probably better support my direct port water injection setup as well").


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

The configuration was pioneered by me and adopted with succes by a few that decided to follow suite with direct port injection. Detailed explanation, pictures, and data can be found in the following thread. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...Charge-Cooling-quot-a-different-approach-quot 

The reasoning and empirical testing that lead to the configuration started way back when I was running 30+ psi on my stock K04 with water injection as my only mean of knock suppression (way before I switched to E85). With 3 nozzles plumbed, one in a throttle body spacer, as well as two others placed downstream and upstream of a single OEM SMIC (had deleted one to recoup some unneeded pressure drop), I was getting super low IAT in the plenum. However, despite the low air charge temp overall, I was also getting consistent timing pull in the first cylinder, where my driver side IM was forcing the charge to make a sharp turn (the next cylinder in charge path would occasionally get some low correction too while the other two remained unphased). 

The only possible explanation, with a healthy engine, was that the pressurized air would fill the first runner, but the heavier water droplets would be reluctant to make the sudden sharp turn and continued going straight to supply the rest of the runners, and cylinders they feed. My first experiment was to plumb a single nozzle in the plenum directly facing the first runner in the air path. The test was very successful as the first "problematic" cylinder, suddenly became the cylider with the highest knock threshold overnight (meaning that if I pushed boost or timing farther than usual, the other cylinders would show correction first, but not the one with the dedicated nozzle). 

This inspired me to expand on the experiment down the road to provide each runner with their own dedicated fluid supply. Why not plumb into the runners themselves? Simply because spraying fluid at 250 psi perpendicular to a wall that's just over an inch away, would be begging for fluid to puddle on the facing wall, and create another set of problems. My testing (nothing really scientific because I don't have the mean to test the spray in a manifold under pressure on the bench) revealed that the configuration is the best at this point without having the tooling to experiment further. With the help of proprietary custom nozzles I had made (USRT bought the rights and supplies them now), I was able to get a narrow angle of spray that further guarantees that the juice would get into the runner, instead of spreading too wide and having a percentage of the fluid missing the targeted runner hole. There were other reasons that also pushed me away from spraying into the runners, even at an acute angle, but they are all explained and discussed in the thread linked. I have had great results with it, showing consistent and more importantly evened out knock threshold on all 4 cylinders (the handful of others that adopted the configuration have not reported failure either). 

The only thing I can say that is different in mine compared to Doug's is that my plumbing is offset lower towards the runners and a bit forward to accommodate possible airflow distortion and complement the design of the manifold. I'm guessing that Doug did not have that luxury because of his cylindrical plenum vs the rectangular OEM one. :beer:


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## esoxlucios (Sep 17, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> The configuration was pioneered by me and adopted with succes by a few that decided to follow suite with direct port injection. Detailed explanation, pictures, and data can be found in the following thread.
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...Charge-Cooling-quot-a-different-approach-quot
> 
> *. . .​* The only thing I can say that is different in mine compared to Doug's is that my plumbing is offset lower towards the runners and a bit forward to accommodate possible airflow distortion and complement the design of the manifold. I'm guessing that Doug did not have that luxury because of his cylindrical plenum vs the rectangular OEM one. :beer:


 *Nice work*, sir, and I'm not the least surprised with your resourcefullness and persistence. :thumbup: 

I wonder if the the nozzles were mounted on the opposite side (just above the intake runners), if the air rushing into each runner would just carry the mist right above with it, especially if you used the foggers sold by McMaster Carr. 

On the other hand, if your actual tests show even CF, the further experimentation is pointless, unless you might expect different results with different intake manifolds (e.g., I am using the ABD passenger-side intake mani). 

______________________________ 

_Brought to you by the letter "M" and the Omega concern. 

*Disclosure:* the views expressed here are solely my own. I have received no compensation for this post. This post, including this disclaimer, may employ rhetorical devices, including, but not limited to, hyperbole and sarcasm. Further, I currently have no positions —either long or short— in any of the companies mentioned, and I do not intend to initiate any positions within the next 72 hours. Finally, nothing in this post should be construed as legal advice, and you should not act or refrain from acting based on information contained in this post. 

Circular 230: Any federal tax commentary contained in this communication is not intended to be used, and cannot be used, for the purpose of avoiding penalties under federal law or promoting, marketing or recommending any tax-related matter._


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## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

Glad to hear your car is back together and planning some events in the near future! 

More importantly, I'm pleased to hear you're finalizing one solid tune. Will this be built around a MAF or without? I assume sticking with E85?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Glad to hear your car is back together and planning some events in the near future!
> 
> More importantly, I'm pleased to hear you're finalizing one solid tune. Will this be built around a MAF or without? I assume sticking with E85?


 Holaa amigo! 

Sticking with E85. I'm planning on using a MAF still too. 

On the water injection - my nozzles are offset but I really didn't have enough time to conduct testing. I'm still planning for the center feed manifold but I have to speak to Ed to find out a time frame & cost. I'd like to have the nozzles hidden below the manifold, with bungs welded in to angle them towards the runner ports.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

esoxlucios said:


> *Nice work*, sir, and I'm not the least surprised with your resourcefullness and persistence. :thumbup:
> 
> I wonder if the the nozzles were mounted on the opposite side (just above the intake runners), if the air rushing into each runner would just carry the mist right above with it, especially if you used the foggers sold by McMaster Carr.
> 
> On the other hand, if your actual tests show even CF, the further experimentation is pointless, unless you might expect different results with different intake manifolds


 I've thought about your idea when I was on the drawing board. However, if the original problem (water droplets not wanting to change direction on a dime like the pressurized air molecules are) was any indication of what's happening dynamically, spraying in the final direction you want the juice to go is obviously the most efficient way with water droplets in the size that we are dealing with. I am sure that much higher pump pressure and exotic fogging nozzles would've changed the dynamics. But, I don't think that messing with something that delivered great results with the current automotive W/I hardware available (except for the custom nozzles), would warrant the effort just for an enthusiast like myself doing this as a hobby. Maybe if my configuration was a complete failure I would have pursued further development, but a this point, it works well enough to not call for major reconfiguration (high pressure pump, lines, fittings, and retrofitting it all to work with fogging nozzles).


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Nice to see it coming along and looking good :thumbup: what autocross u going to 
In ct ???


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Well Max, Don (Evo 10 friend), Jeff & myself got together for a couple hours of dyno fun yesterday.

Dyno was taken at ~32psi, maf-less, with water injection off and on a mustang dyno. Did three flashes on the dyno to get fueling up top close to perfect without corrections. Ran out of time to go further. Max added a lot of timing from when I did my last dyno, hence the 100hp/tq increase.

End results: Just shy of 570awhp & 500 ft/lbs torque :laugh:

Just want to say a huge thank you to Steve for helping me with last minute tuning- I've never had my car run this well under full throttle.

At this boost level I think my ID1000 @ 60psi (just over 4bar) are maxed out. Even if they aren't, I think I'm done with increasing power. Going to add the water injection in to safely run this boost/timing level and just enjoy the car a little.

Injector duty cycles are:

5,290rpm - 77.01%
6,535rpm - 90.78%
7,228rpm - 94.45%

Dyno sheet from my last pull:











Log data of the above pull below. All charts have RPM on the X axis.

























































Dyno Video of random pull:

http://youtu.be/T8iwlVw_zII


Responsible street driving the day after - 2nd, 3rd, 4th going up the hill. Got on it a little in 5th after.

http://youtu.be/61UTRTo9BgM


Issues that still exist:

Why in the world am I blowing blue smoke under decel/letting off throttle? Just had my valve stem seals replaced at FFE. Turbo probably has about 12k on it now if that much. I don't re-route PCV.

Needs some fine tuning, but it's most of the way there. Part throttle and idle tuning up next. Going to try and decrease corrections in the 5k-6k range under full load.

First a coilover change. Deciding between H&R Streets & RSS's


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

:thumbup::what: :heart: opcorn:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

People that don't understand what it's like when this thing is running, we were all plugging our ears with our fingers when Doug's car is doing a full pulls on the dyno. On spikes (punching it from a roll like you'd do in real life), the car was going well over 650 AWHP on the rollers. 

What's even more scary about it, is that this is only at 32 psi of boost and water injection switched off. There is a lot more left in it with bigger injectors (at 90+ percent IDC, I didn't want to ask Doug to go for more boost). I can see this car doing 650 AWHP easily with 5 more psi and proper injectors. I'm very happy for you Doug! After all the headaches, you have a safe and powerful car to enjoy for a while... until the next episode 

We had an awesome time too! From dyno time, to eating at Bottomz Up (modern Hooters NYC style), and of course the beer chugging contest, arm wrestling, push up competition etc. :beer::beer::beer:

The beast


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## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

Congrats Douglas! 

I hope you don't experience another "episode" before our next visit. :laugh:


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## StateSideS3 (Apr 13, 2007)

Dude, sickkk numbers, and thats without water injection!?!?
Dope!! We gotta chill, go for a ride and do some things on the S3


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## StateSideS3 (Apr 13, 2007)

Wish i coulda came with u guys!!


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

All I can say is wow wow wow !!!!!!
AND IM THROWING IN [email protected]$ K AMAZING


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## BeasTToftheEast (Sep 20, 2007)

I can't wait til I see some of my numbers before the month is out, once I move out to NY in less than 6 months maybe I'll join the e85 revolution


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

Beautiful numbers, Doug! Would love to see you sort the fueling and spin it out to 8500.

So, after all this work, did you never bore/stroke your engine? Not that you need more power, but your spool doesn't look much off my .83 6262 on the 2.0L setup. I'm just diggin' what these PTE turbos are putting out...I can't wait to do some dyno tuning and shut up some local **** talkers


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Congrats Doug. Those are some sick numbers. Now I want to know if you'll do more than enjoy it on the streets? Dare I say, test the limits of the drivetrain? :laugh:


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

:heart:


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Epic! 570:thumbup: ...we don't need no stinkin ttrs. ;-)

cheers


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Thanks all!

I'm already concerned about longevity so for now I'm planning on just trying to make the car more reliable and enjoyable. Smooth the timing out and get the fueling perfect with very little correction.

I have nightmares of my crank/cam gear locating pins shearing off and my haldex exploding.

Also with pretty sticky dry-only tires (RT-615's) the car is already a little hairy on the street. I learned on the way home from Max's that you dare not floor it around even the slightest bend in the road.



TTC2k5 said:


> Epic! 570:thumbup: ...we don't need no stinkin ttrs. ;-)
> 
> cheers



Yup Bob! At 470 wheel I was already ripping past modified TT RS's.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Thats awesome Doug! Now drive that thing!!


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

DougLoBue said:


> Yup Bob! At 470 wheel I was already ripping past modified TT RS's.


Lol the guy at the TTRS gtg. 
You pop your hood to let the turbo cool
(Meanwhile everyone else does the same thinking he's showing off his bay) 

PS now you need to find someone to drive you to h20 for sure. 
PSS now the rapage can commence. Hopefully ticketless


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

what turbo is this on again?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

18T_BT said:


> what turbo is this on again?


Precision 5857 turbo with an Ed (FFE) V-banded manifold, downpipe etc.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

What did timing correction look like?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

20v master said:


> What did timing correction look like?


I don't think there was much, if any, timing pulled. Maybe Doug can confirm with his logs? The timing map is one of my wild creations, but is still on the conservative side and pretty safe for E85 (I purposely left a nice safety net around peak power or cylinder pressure).

I know there is more left in it, but the fact that Doug built his motor with the higher 9.5:1 CR, made me leave the headroom to increase and max out the cylinder pressures via boost (which will make more power than timing anyway). One day, when Doug gets bigger injectors than his baby 1000s, and get his fueling fully sorted, we'll go for the 650-700 AWHP range with more boost and maybe a bit more timing. :beer:


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## Dowski12 (Nov 2, 2011)

Doug, are you still running maestro? If so I might need some advice in the upcoming months :thumbup:


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## spartiati (May 19, 2008)

Give me a heads up next time ill tag along and help out with the tuning. Glad it all worked out.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Awesome stuff man! Now get an EGT installed  :thumbup::beer:


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