# Gt3076r gli build



## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

*GT3076r GLI BUILD*

Originally, I wasn't going to do a build thread. However, as I was watching the parts stack up, I figured why not document the process for the future. Right? :vampire:.

Here is the car:


















History: I bought the car about 2 years ago with roughly 75,000 miles. In that time, I have had a lot of problems with the car:laugh:. I have had a lot of untraceable coolant leaking problems, electrical problems, and timing fault code issues. Also, In this 2 year period, the stock k03s went out(or so we thought). So, I decided to go the small upgrade route and bought a k04-001. Needless to say, this was a bad idea. If you are considering it, don't make the mistake. The money vs gain ratio just doesn't add up. The car seemed to be better for a little while with the k04, but a few weeks later, there was smoke coming out of the exhaust again:banghead:. So, after a lot of thinking, I decided to do a full build on it to attempt to make it a more reliable and fun daily driver.

*Let the build commence:*

Main parts plan:
-1.8t AWW Block/Head
-IE Rods
-81mm JE Pistons 8.5:1
-Supertech Valves
-Supertech Valve Guides
-Supertech Spring and Retainer set
-Calico coated bearings
-ARP Main & Head Studs
-GT3076R .63ar
-Pagparts 44mm wastegated vband manifold
-Tial 44mm wastegate
-Clutch Masters fx400
-02M Peloquin
-IE Billet Blockoff Plate
-IE Billet Fuel Rail w/fpr adapter
-Walbro 225
-IE 1.8t Manual Timing Belt Tensioner Kit 3.5
-80mm Hemi TB
-Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator
-Forge Silicone Coolant line kit
-Treadstone TR8 IC
-Gonzo?
-Custom Intake Mani, Exhaust, Dump Tube, and IC Piping

Boxes of parts have been showing up at the door pretty regularly lately...






































































































































































































I will keep this updated with new pictures and info as more progress is made.umpkin::vampire:


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Awesome, Glad you made a build thread.. It gets quiet in here during the winter so at least there is something to watch

Are those PPT Stickers in this pic???


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Yes they are!!:laugh:


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## Dub...Love (Oct 24, 2012)

:thumbup: awesome! Look forward to seeing your build.


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

GLIIII said:


> Yes they are!!:laugh:


Arnold WTF:laugh: if you read this thread I better be getting some stickers in the box with my AEM gauges you send me... Just becasue I don't have your "Stainless" manifold doesn't mean you can treat me this way



OP looks like you did your homework, good choice on parts going into your GLI:thumbup:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

We started the early stages of the build the other day. I pulled the intake manifold off so that we can start mocking up the new intake.





























This should help things flow. umpkin:









My brother took the stock mani into work with him and cut the runners off.



















He has also been making progress on mocking everything up.








:wave:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Thanks guys. :thumbup:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

:beer:opcorn:

Everything Looks Great!


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Thanks Tom. :wave:


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## Aronc (Jan 30, 2006)

good looking build. Looking forward to seeing the intake mani


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## baileysjetta (Feb 22, 2007)

*Nice build*

everything looks awesome. You are going to need a better fuel pump! surge tank and 044:thumbup:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Thanks man. :thumbup: I'll post updates as we make progress on it. 



ascgti89 said:


> good looking build. Looking forward to seeing the intake mani


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## tmg1991 (Jan 20, 2011)

turbo isnt big enough........

opcorn:


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## one_fast_vw (Feb 10, 2011)

Subscribe !!! Wish I would have dine a built thread.


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

baileysjetta, the walbro should hold up just fine for now. Shooting for around 450whp and it's good to 500whp. :thumbup:

tmg1991,


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Arnold WTF:laugh: if you read this thread I better be getting some stickers ... Just becasue I don't have your "Stainless" manifold doesn't mean you can treat me this way


this opcorn:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

might as well post this in here too. umpkin:


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## drewsless2000VW (Dec 17, 2008)

Damn im in for this. Looks like its going to be a awesome build


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

drewsless2000VW said:


> Damn im in for this. Looks like its going to be a awesome build


:beer: Yeh, There's So Much Goodness in Here... Garrett, Tial, Pagparts, IE, Forge.... :heart: :heart: :heart:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

haha thanks guys. :laugh:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

We made some pretty good progress on the intake manifold todayumpkin:























































Attempting to make a hole saw this big cut through 1/2" aluminum with a high powered drill was a nightmare. My wrists still feel it.


















First test fit.









Put all of the cut pieces together and figured out the angle of the plenum. Then marked the position of everything with a sharpie and headed over to a friends to get it tacked up.













































Brought it back home for a final test fit and slightly adjusted some of the angles with a mallet.
(sorry for the dark photos it was getting late)


























:laugh:

Here are my brother's builds for your viewing pleasure(unless you are a jdm hater) haha.


















:thumbup::wave:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^:thumbup:opcorn:


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## mk2bmxlover (Feb 15, 2008)

Glad your finally doing a build thread can't wait to see it done


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

> mk2bmxlover
> Glad your finally doing a build thread can't wait to see it done


Thanks Miah! Same here. :laugh:


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## Rumpelstilzchen (Oct 24, 2009)

:beer::beer: to another PA big turbo build


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## Pinkmaggit (Jan 30, 2012)

Great list of parts, can't wait to see how this build turns out.


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

> Rumpelstilzchen
> to another PA big turbo build






> Pinkmaggit
> Great list of parts, can't wait to see how this build turns out.


Thank you! I did a good amount of research before purchasing anything.


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## lewp91 (May 9, 2011)

watching this, as I'm looking to do something very similar


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## subisan (Mar 30, 2009)

Well done so far! I've been thinking about doing that with my intake plenum....are you basing your dimensions off of anything?

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## MrAkalin (Jan 4, 2011)

opcorn:


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## th4tk1dsc0tty (Jan 30, 2012)

soo sickk


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

> subisan
> Well done so far! I've been thinking about doing that with my intake plenum....are you basing your dimensions off of anything?


Thank you! Not really basing the dimensions off of anything. Just accommodating for the 80mm TB the best we can and keeping the runner length basically the same as stock. :thumbup:



> th4tk1dsc0tty
> soo sickk


Thanks. :laugh:


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## ZG86 (Sep 17, 2006)

opcorn:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

:thumbup:


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

looking good. the 1/2 seems a little thick for this though.


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

> bonesaw
> looking good. the 1/2 seems a little thick for this though.


The rest of the plenum won't be as thick. It is just like that to allow wiggle room and recess the runners with plenty of space to weld the inside and outside of the runners to the back plate. :thumbup:


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## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

Just wondering: Won't the runners from the stock manifold still be a bit of a "choke" point as far as air flow is concerned?


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## v.3 (Oct 28, 2012)

looking good

PPT:thumbup:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

> FTMFW
> Just wondering: Won't the runners from the stock manifold still be a bit of a "choke" point as far as air flow is concerned?


I mean ya, probably a little bit. But I am going to port the back plate into the runners and smooth/port the runners little bit too. Better than spending $700+ on an intake manifold. :wave:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

> v.3
> looking good
> 
> PPT


Thanks man.


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## v.3 (Oct 28, 2012)

GLIIII said:


> I mean ya, probably a little bit. But I am going to port the back plate into the runners and smooth/port the runners little bit too. Better than spending $700+ on an intake manifold. :wave:


agreed :beer::beer:


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## 04 GLI Luva (May 30, 2007)

:thumbup: for using the 1/2" plate it allows you to machine a velocity stack into the plate-to-runners. With just using a router.
Results...


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## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

GLIIII said:


> Better than spending $700+ on an intake manifold. :wave:


Oh hell yeah! I hear you squawking loud and clear there Big Bird.


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

> 04 GLI Luva
> :thumbup: for using the 1/2" plate it allows you to machine a velocity stack into the plate-to-runners. With just using a router.
> Results...


Precisely. :thumbup::wave:


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## v.3 (Oct 28, 2012)

04 GLI Luva said:


> :thumbup: for using the 1/2" plate it allows you to machine a velocity stack into the plate-to-runners. With just using a router.
> Results...


That looks badass


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

You could always order the xcessive plenum less welding and Fab work their around $200
If I remember


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## MrAkalin (Jan 4, 2011)

I wanna see how this custom one comes along. Is it just me or is that plenum gonna be huge?


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

> 01ttgt28
> You could always order the xcessive plenum less welding and Fab work their around $200
> If I remember


Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm enjoying figuring out and making this custom one. It's half the fun.:wave:



> MrAkalin
> I wanna see how this custom one comes along. Is it just me or is that plenum gonna be huge?


Haha it will be big, but not super crazy. The plate that you see with the TB hole in it is a 4x4 square. Everything else will be laid inside and welded on the inside of the pieces that are currently there. So, the overall height will be 4" on the outside of the plenum. By just mentally measuring right now, the widest section of the plenum(right behind the TB) will probably be somewhere in the 6-7" range. That's all outer plenum measurements. Kinda big.:screwy::laugh:


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## EuroJerz (May 27, 2010)

FINALY CODY!!! Im soo hyped to watch this!!! And like i said, if you need any help with cleaning out the bay, give me a call and ill drive up for a few days as long as mk2bmxlover wants a room mate for a few days


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

GLIIII said:


> Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm enjoying figuring out and making this custom one. It's half the fun :wave:
> 
> Can't wait to see the outcome :thumbup:


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## desertdubs_C (Sep 20, 2009)

I like this build! Always enjoy reading and watching how a build progresses. opcorn:

Just some fyi, that radiator....fits nicely if you don't have A/C. If you plan on keeping your A/C, I'm not sure if others have been able to fit their condenser with it as it's slightly larger than stock. I sure couldn't.


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

> EuroJerz
> FINALY CODY!!! Im soo hyped to watch this!!! And like i said, if you need any help with cleaning out the bay, give me a call and ill drive up for a few days as long as mk2bmxlover wants a room mate for a few days


Haha thanks man. Gonna be fun next summer. :laugh:




> desertdubs_C
> I like this build! Always enjoy reading and watching how a build progresses.
> 
> Just some fyi, that radiator....fits nicely if you don't have A/C. If you plan on keeping your A/C, I'm not sure if others have been able to fit their condenser with it as it's slightly larger than stock. I sure couldn't.


Thanks man! I would definitely enjoy the luxury of ac for the summer. lol. I read a few places that it was a direct oem replacement with no needed modifications to anything. Was the spacing just too small for the condenser to fit?


*Picking up the first half of the intake mani from being tig welded today. Then the runner porting/forming the velocity stacks and all that fanciness starts. I'll post pictures when I pick it up. *


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

v.3 said:


> That looks badass


Lol thats mine

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Well,

I picked the first part of the mani up from being welded yesterday and I wasn't exactly ecstatic about the results. I took it to a backed local fabricating shop that my brother and other friends have taken other aluminum parts to. We talked to the best welder there, told him what we wanted and that we wanted it to look nice and handed the part over to him when we left. I'm not sure what happened, but I'm pretty sure it got handed off to someone who isn't quite as experienced. The surfaces weren't cleaned and the welds are globbed up. Needless to say, the welds aren't perfect like I was hoping. Good thing I'm planning to get it coated in crinkle black. I'm probably going to take the rest of it to a different shop to get the final plenum welds done. :banghead::screwy::sly::facepalm:










After cleaning a little bit of the dirt out with a wire brush...






































This isn't the final plenum shape, but probably something close to it.


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Yeah those welds aren't so pretty. Defiantly not cleaned enough. I do like the design if the manifold and wrinkle black will hide the welds for sure


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

> One-Eight GTI
> Yeah those welds aren't so pretty. Defiantly not cleaned enough. I do like the design if the manifold and wrinkle black will hide the welds for sure


Ya, I know. But what can ya do? There's no going back now. lol. The plenum is definitely big enough that you can't even see them from the front of the car and the crinkle black, fuel rail, etc should help take the focus away from them and hide them pretty well...hopefully.:banghead:


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## MrAkalin (Jan 4, 2011)

Pretty pumped to see the final product (after powdercoat) should look sweet :thumbup::beer:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

> MrAkalin
> Pretty pumped to see the final product (after powdercoat) should look sweet :thumbup::beer:


Glad you're into it. I think it will turn out pretty nice once it is all buttoned up. :thumbup:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Haven't been able to make much progress on the build lately. Blew the head gasket in my daily, so we had to take care of that, then Thanksgiving came, and now I've just been slacking.  

HOWEVER, FX400 should be showing up any day now. . Then the build really begins. 

Also, my brother got me some sweet extra goodies for my birthday a couple of weeks ago. :thumbup::thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

:thumbup::thumbup: For another local build. 

If you have any questions about removing the mess in the bay shoot me a PM.


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

:thumbup::wave: 

Thanks man! I'm sure I will. That birds nest is scary. Haha. 




> :thumbup::thumbup:For another local build.
> 
> If you have any questions about removing the mess in the bay shoot me a PM.


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Clutch finally showed up a few days ago. 

CM fx400, Full face sprung disk, Steel flywheel.



























Finally pulled the block and internals out of the closet the other day and got the block up on the engine stand. Attempted to strip the block with aircraft stripper, but it didn't seem to have any effect on that tough block paint. :banghead:


























'

More progress to come shortly. :wave:


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

Do Work!:thumbup:


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## 01-GTI-1.8T (Aug 2, 2012)

IFTW:thumbup:


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

awesome build bro :beer::thumbup:

subscribed


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## lewp91 (May 9, 2011)

i'm also subbing, good work man!


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## izcorrado18 (Aug 21, 2005)

GLIIII said:


> Clutch finally showed up a few days ago.
> 
> CM fx400, Full face sprung disk, Steel flywheel.
> 
> ...


:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: Man thats looking good!!


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## MrAkalin (Jan 4, 2011)

I was about to look for this thread and ask for updates, and you updated it lol.

Awesome work! 

How's the mani coming?


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

> MrAkalin
> I was about to look for this thread and ask for updates, and you updated it lol.
> 
> Awesome work!
> ...



Glad you're all into the build! :thumbup: :thumbup:

I haven't made much progress on the mani lately. Just been lazy. I need to get the rest of the Aluminum to make the bend and get the top and bottom plates cut out. I am probably going to start trying to form the velocity stacks today. :thumbup:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Stripped the motor yesterday and got it coated in high temp primer and paint.










Before:














































Finally all stripped...



























After:


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Looking good :beer:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Drilled and tapped the intake manifold for the throttle body last night and started porting the runners.

Drilled and waiting to be tapped.









Sending the tap down through the holes.

__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content










Before porting:









After some porting:
(Still need to get a router and figure out how to run a router around the inside of the plate to create the velocity stacks. Anyone have any pointers on using a router for aluminum?)









Wabam!:laugh: Bolted up perfectly.


















On to researching about that router situation...If you have done it yourself and have any tips, please pm them to me! :thumbup::wave:


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## izcorrado18 (Aug 21, 2005)

Man looking good!!!


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

:beer: Progress


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

ive done it many times. first of all you wont be able to do it with the throttle body piece there. take it off. At least it is tacked on only. It will get in the way of the router. I also found out that I can not get a fill radius after the runners are welded. The router bit has a guide on the tip, and the curvature of the runners will not let the bit go wide enough. You will be able to get a full radius in some places, and not in others. I therefore would only tack the plate to the runners to get the exact shape of the holes in the plate. Then seperate the plate from the runners, route the holes, and weld it back on.

You need to clamp flange to a table top, right at the edge of the tabletop with a big C clamp. Have the runners going to the ground, below the table. Use a big sheet of material the same thickness as he plate you want to run the router on. Put it so it butts up right next to the flange you will be routing. Clamp that sheet in place or use a big weight to hold it in place. Set the plunge depth on the router to however deep the bit is designed for. I would not go quite all the way, and leave maybe 1/16 of an inch or so to spare. That way if you will not route too deep and create a pocket where you dont want one. Hold the router firmly and only skim a little at a time. The router spins really really fast, and you can NOT take it all off in one pass. If you try to it will catch and jump on you and F it all up. 

If you want to really make it easier, get another table of the same height and put the manifold flange inbetween the two tables, with a spare sheet of material the same tickness as the flange on BOTH sides of the manifold. That will give you more room to push down on he router for more stability. I did not think this as needed with a steady hand and going slowly.

After you are done, some scotch brite will polish it up real well. My results looked just as good as CNC jobs.

The VR6 one below was routed AFTER the flange was fully welded on. The 4 cylinder pics below was done BEFORE. You can see the difference.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

picts no worky


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

really? i see them fine....


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Thank you for the info speed51133!:thumbup:

But I agree, I can't see the photos that you are referring to?


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

http://www.winkflash.com/PHOTO/signin_es.aspx?esf=mzdloq0lpp7rqbfdtvsu61delqhkya

makes you create an account....ugh it is free though


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Thanks man! However, I still don't think your vr6 photos are working.

Pm'ing you about a few more details. :thumbup:


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

http://www.winkflash.com/PHOTO/signin_es.aspx?esf=ec43mrx2es26oplstqgwzpqzoogl2b

thats the vr6 stuff....
nevermind the top photos, they were my first ever attempt.


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

:thumbup:


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## MrAkalin (Jan 4, 2011)

Intake manifold is sweet :thumbup:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

> MrAkalin
> Intake manifold is sweet:thumbup:


Thanks man.


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## mk3dream (Oct 12, 2008)

looks like theres some solid work happening here :thumbup: 

didnt even know u could use a router on metal 

im in opcorn:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

:thumbup:


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

awesome build man
watching :thumbup:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Waterpump, thermostat, and IE timing belt roller installed

I couldn't find Permatex assembly lube anywhere locally yesterday, so I started to put these on until I find some. Small progress is still progress I guess.



















:wave:


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## 01-GTI-1.8T (Aug 2, 2012)

:thumbup:


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## GLI_jetta (Jan 3, 2006)

Looks awesome man.. Where out of pa are you exactly?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

:beer:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

> GLI_jetta
> Looks awesome man.. Where out of pa are you exactly?


Thanks man!
Milton, PA. It's about an hour and a half from Stroudsburg


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Got the crank in and torqued up last night.



















Lathering everything up with some Permatex assembly lube.


















Good thing we splurged on this thing a few weeks ago. :laugh:


















Checked all of the bearing clearances with some plastigauge.



























.050mm main bearing #1
.040mm main bearing #2
.038mm main bearing #3
.050mm main bearing #4
.040mm main bearing #5
:thumbup:

All buttoned up.


















Spins free as a bird. :thumbup: (click for video)


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

:beer:


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## MrAkalin (Jan 4, 2011)

This is coming along awesome :beer:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

> MrAkalin
> This is coming along awesome:beer:


Thanks man! Glad to finally be making real progress on it.:wave:


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## Rideforlife_33 (Oct 18, 2008)

liking it!


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Good stuff:beer:


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Awesome work! keep it up:beer:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Disassembled each rod/piston last night and cleaned/re-lubed everything. Also gapped the rings and got them all installed on the pistons.



















First Comp rings gapped to .016 per Pagparts info
Second Comp rings came out of the box at .020. According to IE, this is what these are supposed to be at? :thumbup:


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

nice job man.
this is what I like to see...all the details in the engine build that are commonly either not done or not shown in videos/threads.

way to be thorough:thumbup:


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## MrAkalin (Jan 4, 2011)

Nice to see someone checking all measurements. :thumbup::beer:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Thanks guys. Definitely wanted to know these specs for ease of mind before the motor was put in. :thumbup:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Piston ring side clearances and crank end play checked the other day. I think the end play is a little tight though...




































Got the old motor pulled too.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

:beer: Lookin Good Man


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## Three3Se7en (Jul 2, 2007)

Are the bearing clearance tolerances listed in the Bentley manual? 
Did you balance all the internals?

I'm planning on gauging all of my clearances as well. No need in skimping on a $10k engine. :laugh:
Build looks good though. Way to go on the details. :thumbup:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

> Three3Se7en
> Are the bearing clearance tolerances listed in the Bentley manual?
> Did you balance all the internals?
> 
> ...


Yes the bearing clearances are in the Bentley. You can also find them online if you dig hard enough. That's where I found them before I got my bentleys. Crank was balanced.

I agree completely. It's an investment. With all the money that it takes to build a vw right, might as well make sure everything is right before something gets broken because of laziness.


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## RodgertheRabit II (Sep 13, 2012)

^^ Been there! I had a Friend/Tech get lazy when dropping in my rods last year and put on 2 rod caps on backwards:banghead::banghead:

Last time I let someone else touch my isht:beer:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

So, when I bought the new motor that I am putting in the car, I bought it from a guy in Philly that said the motor was built by Shums Auto Repair in Philly. It has their stamp on the head and a handful of receipts from them. It had JE 81mm 8.5:1CR pistons, IE Rods, Supertech valves and Supertech springs and retainers. We got the motor home(this was about a year or so ago) and we decided to do some investigating to see how everything was...

We quickly found out that there were grooves worn into the rod bearings from dirt in the motor which had formed from simply hand turning the motor since it had never ran after being rebuilt.

SOO, we decided to tear the whole bottom end apart and take it to the local machine shop to have the works done. I ended up having to order all new bearings and piston rings because they put oem piston rings on the JE Pistons. :banghead: So finally, I got all of the parts and replaced all of the bull**** that they had going on in the bottom end.

NOWWW, I decided to take the head of the motor over to the machine shop to have it looked over and make sure that the valves would seal. I get a call back that same day and they tell me that none of the valves in the head will seal at all. Turns out it has the old stock valve guides and the shop says it will probably snap a valve because it is so loose. They also said that the valve seals were never replaced. They just put the old valve seals on the new valves. :banghead::sly::what::thumbdown::facepalm:

Just a fair warning to anyone who sees this and lives in that area...


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

wow that sucks! sorry to hear that man, better find out now though instead of slap it together and


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

GLIIII said:


> NOWWW, I decided to take the head of the motor over to the machine shop to have it looked over and make sure that the valves would seal. I get a call back that same day and they tell me that none of the valves in the head will seal at all. Turns out it has the old stock valve guides and the shop says it will probably snap a valve because it is so loose. They also said that the valve seals were never replaced. They just put the old valve seals on the new valves. :banghead::sly::what::thumbdown::facepalm:


That sucks bro. I wonder how bad the play on the valve guides were. My shop checked the play on the guides for my AEB head and thankfully no issues there. Its pretty scary and annoying buying used **** thats supposed to be legit to only find out you have to dump more loot into it. Those old valve seals would more than likely have leaked oil too and caused a nice smoke fest on start up. Good luck.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

GLIIII said:


>


Your shop looks almost like mine.


----------



## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

GLIIII said:


>


Your shop looks almost like mine.


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Got the Pistons/Rods in over the weekend along with the oil filter housing and a few little things... 










Checking Side Clearance. 


















Rod bearing clearances were .0015 thousandths across the board.  




























Final Torque on all of the Rods. 













































 
^Click for a video of the motor being turned by hand.:thumbup: 


Just waiting for those new valve guides to show up so I can take everything to the machine shop and have them put them in. Then hopefully things will come together after I get that back. :wave:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Also... 

I have a few things for sale from my old motor. More stuff will be up for sale after a while. :thumbup: 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...utch-Europec-flywheel&p=80462597#post80462597 

Need money to get the last few major things I need for this build. Help me out! Haha.


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

:thumbup:


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## Vettes Volvos and VWs (Mar 6, 2006)

Good progress:thumbup:


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## JuanGLS (May 24, 2011)

Very nice progress :beer:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Thanks guys. :thumbup:


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## Dub...Love (Oct 24, 2012)

Looking Awesome!! :beer: for you.


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

Looking great man, can't wait till i try out the PPT vbanded kit!


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Thanks again guys! 

codergfx, I agree! I can't wait to get the head back so I can get the mani/turbo on and start buttoning everything up!


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## th4tk1dsc0tty (Jan 30, 2012)

oh..my... opcorn: looks so good man!


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

GLIIII said:


> Thanks again guys!
> 
> codergfx, I agree! I can't wait to get the head back so I can get the mani/turbo on and start buttoning everything up!


 thats where the fun begins! :beer:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Haha Thanks Scotty.:wave:


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## Xenerith (Jan 21, 2013)

Idk what it was but my pants kept getting tight every time I seen a picture. Anyone else having this issue  . Keep up the good work


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)




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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Xenerith said:


> Idk what it was but my pants kept getting tight every time I seen a picture. Anyone else having this issue  . Keep up the good work


 Only thing that makes my pants tight is a nice big pair of tits and a big ol booty

:what:

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

> schwartzmagic
> Only thing that makes my pants tight is a nice big pair of tits and a big ol booty
> 
> :what:


 lol.


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## Philip J. Fry (Jan 1, 2005)

Looks like I'm starting to follow this at just the right time. In for more. opcorn:


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## kid vw (Jul 1, 2008)

Nice build man def wish i had the tools ad knowledge to make my own intake mani


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

> kid vw
> Nice build man def wish i had the tools ad knowledge to make my own intake mani


 Thanks man. This is actually my first build. It's all about learning. I am lucky enough to have an older brother that is damn good at this stuff though.


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## Angry_Pig (Nov 6, 2011)

Awesome build man! i have a aww and im gonna buy a spare aww 1.8t to build so i'll defintely be following your build so i can get an idea


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

> Angry_Pig
> Awesome build man! i have a aww and im gonna buy a spare aww 1.8t to build so i'll defintely be following your build so i can get an idea


 Thanks man. Good luck on your build. :thumbup: 

New Supertech valve guides and new oil pump/pickup tube cam in yesterday. 



























I took the valve guides, valve seals, and cam chain to the machine shop this morning. 

Now... 
*SOMEONE PLEASE BUY MY OLD K04 SO I CAN AFFORD TO PICK MY HEAD UP FROM THE MACHINE SHOP!* 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...utch-Europec-flywheel&p=80502141#post80502141


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## dubbin2.0T (Jul 20, 2011)

Now following :thumbup:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

SAI, EVAP, & EMISSIONS crap deleted.









First step after the build is finished is to get rid of these wheels. :laugh:









*ALSO...*
I picked my head up from the machine shop this morning. Hopefully my rear main seal shows up today so we can get the head/oil pump/rear main seal/oil pan on and button the whole motor up tonight!!


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Updated your build in the 20v builds thread


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Awesome. Thanks man!:wave:


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## 3WheelnGTi (Jan 19, 2008)

Great build :thumbup:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

> 3WheelnGTi
> Great build :thumbup:


Thanks man!


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Got the tight crankshaft end play figured out with a little trick from the local machine shop. Turns out everything was all good.


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Got everything in the bottom end and the head on lastnight!































































Sealing the oil pan up tonight and then the motor will be pretty much fully assembled. On to the good stuff soon.


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## Dub...Love (Oct 24, 2012)

Awesome progress man! :thumbup: glad to be following this thread. 

Is your intake Mani all done?


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

> Dub...Love
> Awesome progress man! glad to be following this thread.
> Is your intake Mani all done?


Thanks man! Awesome to hear you're into it.:thumbup:
No, the intake mani has been sitting. I ran into a road block trying to figure out how to create the velocity stacks into the runners because we had the runners/back plate welded together before creating the velocity stacks with a router.

I was thinking about having a cnc shop actually do it, but I wasn't able to find a local one. So, I picked up a router bit and a rotozip that my dad had and we are going to try doing them by hand and just fix whatever we need to with a die grinder.

Should have an update on it sometime soon.:wave:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Motor is fully assembled! Bolted the ppt mani, turbo, and waste gate on last night:thumbup:

:laugh::laugh::laugh:






















































:thumbup::wave:


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Build is looking good :thumbup:

Just thought about something. What intercooler kit are you using? If PPT then I believe you may have to clock the compressor housing down as it uses the oem charge pipe route.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

> schwartzmagic
> Re: Gt3076r gli build
> Build is looking good
> 
> ...


We haven't clocked the compressor housing into position yet. It is actually loose in the images cause it was hitting the back of the block when installed. I'm gonna be running a treadstone tr8 and have a cx racing ic piping kit for the majority of the piping. :thumbup:


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Still liking the build :thumbup:

But annoying as **** when you post up the link to your build thread in all the other forums, seriously do you crave attention? Did your mommy not love you as a child?? :thumbdown:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Lol. I only ever meant to post it in the mkiv forum. The classifieds was an accident.

Never meant to be annoying. Just trying to find interested people who don't frequent the technical forum. Sorry for being lame. :banghead:


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## MrAkalin (Jan 4, 2011)

That turbo set up is gorgeous dude


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## izcorrado18 (Aug 21, 2005)

Man I wish I could play!! Looks awesome!:thumbup::thumbup:


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Looking good can't wait to see some numbers :thumbup:


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

i second that man lookin good :laugh::thumbup:


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## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

Builds lookin good

Sent from my PH44100 using Tapatalk 2


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

MrAkalin said:


> That turbo set up is gorgeous dude


Thanks man. I'm really happy with it so far.



> 01ttgt28
> Looking good can't wait to see some numbers


:thumbup: Just ready to hear it run. Haha.


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## pluck yew (Oct 23, 2011)

i hope you replaced that missing exhaust stud before you finalized the manifold install 

looks good, keep it up.




>


----------



## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

pluck yew said:


> i hope you replaced that missing exhaust stud before you finalized the manifold install
> 
> looks good, keep it up.


Haha! Dang! Good catch. :laugh:
I actually have a new set of studs and oem lock nuts on the way to replace all of them.


----------



## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Timing belt installed over the weekend.

K04-001 vs 30R




































Valve cover needs some powder coat!!


----------



## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

babyboy408sj saved the day yesterday.

When installing the timing belt, I had gone counter clockwise with the tensioner and torqued it down. He informed me that you're supposed to go clockwise with it.

Appreciate the message man.:thumbup:


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## babyboy408sj (Oct 17, 2004)

GLIIII said:


> babyboy408sj saved the day yesterday.
> 
> When installing the timing belt, I had gone counter clockwise with the tensioner and torqued it down. He informed me that you're supposed to go clockwise with it.
> 
> Appreciate the message man.:thumbup:


No problem thanks bro! When you start the motor if you here a whine from the timing belt it's to tight turn the motor off and losen the tension a little and start her back up.


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

:thumbup::wave: Thanks for the good info.


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## goscha7452 (Jun 9, 2011)

Big_Tom said:


> :beer: Lookin Good Man


Look at you being nice to everyone lately :laugh:


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

GLIIII said:


> babyboy408sj saved the day yesterday.
> 
> When installing the timing belt, I had gone counter clockwise with the tensioner and torqued it down. He informed me that you're supposed to go clockwise with it.
> 
> Appreciate the message man.:thumbup:


For an information perspective what is the reason for it HAVING to go clockwise? To me the only reason for going clockwise is for easy adjustments in the engine bay once the motor is in the car, and honestly as long as it tensions the belt it should be fine. But there may be something i'm overlooking here....


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

MechEngg said:


> For an information perspective what is the reason for it HAVING to go clockwise? To me the only reason for going clockwise is for easy adjustments in the engine bay once the motor is in the car, and honestly as long as it tensions the belt it should be fine. But there may be something i'm overlooking here....


So the natural rotation of the belt keeps it tightened perhaps? Just a guess.

OP build looks great man! :beer:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

MechEngg said:


> For an information perspective what is the reason for it HAVING to go clockwise? To me the only reason for going clockwise is for easy adjustments in the engine bay once the motor is in the car, and honestly as long as it tensions the belt it should be fine. But there may be something i'm overlooking here....


I agree I don't know the exact reason, but it seams like the angle of the tensioner would change the position of the belt pressure on the roller. When you go clockwise, the tensioner sits higher at a different angle than if you go counter clock wise.

Not sure if this causes any affect. Just a thought.:thumbup:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Rod Ratio said:


> So the natural rotation of the belt keeps it tightened perhaps? Just a guess.
> 
> OP build looks great man! :beer:


Thanks dude.:wave:


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## Angry_Pig (Nov 6, 2011)

the is pretty much that same thing im gonna do great minds think alike haha. do u have a total price list of all of the part's u bought?


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Angry_Pig said:


> the is pretty much that same thing im gonna do great minds think alike haha. do u have a total price list of all of the part's u bought?


Umm. I have the receipts from everything, but I havent tried to add it up. It's not cheap though. Lol


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## Angry_Pig (Nov 6, 2011)

oh yeah i wouldnt doubt it i make a lil list of my own.I just wanna double check some stuff.r u gonna run Water meth on top of this setup


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

I'm not really planning to right now. I am probably going to get cams eventually, but I'll probably only go with water meth if I'm not happy with what it's putting down.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Rod Ratio said:


> So the natural rotation of the belt keeps it tightened perhaps? Just a guess.
> 
> OP build looks great man! :beer:


I thought the crank rotated clockwise. 

My only thought was that a seizure of the tensioner roller would cause a loosening of the belt instead of a tightening/stripping of the belt. But overall the tensioner tightness should in no way be an effect of the rotation of the belt, it should be an effect of the nut and stud holding the tensioner in an exact position. 

I honestly think that it would work either way, just saying.



GLIIII said:


> I agree I don't know the exact reason, but it seams like the angle of the tensioner would change the position of the belt pressure on the roller. When you go clockwise, the tensioner sits higher at a different angle than if you go counter clock wise.
> 
> Not sure if this causes any affect. Just a thought.:thumbup:


I'm not sure if the surface area of the belt on the roller plays a big factor in this, it will exert the same amount of force on it, and that force isn't a huge number anyways, especially with a correct heat treated stud in the block.

Good thought but i doubt that is a just cause either.


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

MechEngg said:


> I'm not sure if the surface area of the belt on the roller plays a big factor in this, it will exert the same amount of force on it, and that force isn't a huge number anyways, especially with a correct heat treated stud in the block.
> 
> Good thought but i doubt that is a just cause either.


I agree. The surface area of the belt on the roller might not really play a big factor, but the angle that the belt enters/leaves the tensioner/roller is different because of the tensioner/roller angle. Therefore, the angle that the belt rides on the pulleys is different. Right?

If that even makes any sense.:laugh:


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

GLIIII said:


> I agree. The surface area of the belt on the roller might not really play a big factor, but the angle that the belt enters/leaves the tensioner/roller is different because of the tensioner/roller angle. Therefore, the angle that the belt rides on the pulleys is different. Right?
> 
> If that even makes any sense.:laugh:


Makes sense, i guess maybe the lesser angle between the belt on each side of the roller/tensioner will put a BIT less wear and tear on the belt, but honestly i wouldn't be concerned either way using one of those Gates belts :thumbup:


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## rains (May 30, 2008)

fantastic build so far. Watching this (for inspiration  )


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## izcorrado18 (Aug 21, 2005)

:thumbup::thumbup: Man i that looks good!! opcorn:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

WELP.

I was planning to actually get the motor into the car this weekend, however when I pulled my fx400 apart, I found out that CM sent me a 4 puck sprung disk instead of the full face that I ordered.:banghead::banghead:. Now I'm playing the waiting game to see what happens...

I also attempted to mount my Mishimoto radiator with no luck at all. If you are thinking about getting one of these, be prepared to do a decent amount of work to get it to fit. I am going to have to ditch my AC and trim the plastic radiator support to get it to mount up. I was hoping to at least have one car with AC. Guess that isn't happening.:thumbdown::laugh:

Besides that little bit of BS, I did manage to get some work done.

Shining from the inside out.




































Also pushed the car out and gave the engine bay a good pressure wash for the new motor.(pre-wash)


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## goscha7452 (Jun 9, 2011)

The vdub gods aren't shining on any of us lately... I've spent $7k this week and everything is on back order


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

goscha7452 said:


> The vdub gods aren't shining on any of us lately... I've spent $7k this week and everything is on back order


Ouch. Why does back order even exist?:banghead: haha.


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## pluck yew (Oct 23, 2011)

GLIIII said:


> Ouch. Why does back order even exist?:banghead: haha.


it exists so they have your money and you dont spend that waiting time trying to find the stuff from somewhere else.

and i hope you plan to put sealant back on those threads when you put whatever cups you are going to use back in. :thumbup:

and i wouldnt go any smoother than that on the lower.... mirror smooth polished is bad.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

I have some OEM cups laying around that I will never use :thumbup:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

pluck yew said:


> it exists so they have your money and you dont spend that waiting time trying to find the stuff from somewhere else.
> 
> and i hope you plan to put sealant back on those threads when you put whatever cups you are going to use back in. :thumbup:
> 
> and i wouldnt go any smoother than that on the lower.... mirror smooth polished is bad.


I have billet cups from verdict motorsports for it. They came with lock tite. That is all of the porting that I am doing to them.:wave:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Got the Mishimoto Radiator and fans bolted up the other day.

I decided to just use longer screws instead of trimming the corners of the plastic bumper support where the radiator was originally hitting. Once I got the radiator mounted, I ended up having to trim the plastic around the fan sensor to allow the fans to sit where they are supposed to. Once I did that, I had to drill the wholes out where the fans are supposed to match up to the radiator because 3 of the holes were off in different ways. 

There is also no way to run your AC unless you take the time to modify the condenser and how it mounts up. The condenser and mounting points do not wrap around the radiator because of the difference in size between it and the oem one. I have decided to just delete my AC all together to save the headache of rigging it to making it work.

Needless to say, these aren't a direct oem swap out, but it doesn't take too much extra work to get them to fit. Hopefully this helps a little if anyone is considering purchasing one of these.:thumbup:


----------



## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

Watching


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

why did you decide to swap the radiator?


----------



## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

18T_BT said:


> why did you decide to swap the radiator?


I have had problems with the cooling system in my car since the day I got it. From the water pump to the random plastic pieces cracking and there has been a slow but constant coolant leak somewhere in the engine bay that I never was able to pinpoint. So, I decided to try to replace as much of the cooling system as possible on my rebuild. I purchased the cooling system revamp kit for ECS and it came with the Mishimoto radiator.


----------



## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Finally went for it and attempted to create the velocity stacks into the runners of the mani this weekend. It actually wasn't as bad as we were anticipating. We ended up using a Rotozip with a 3/8" carbide round over bit to route the aluminum plate into the runners. Everything that I read online said that routing aluminum with a wood bit wasn't going to be easy and it was going to make a hell of a mess, but it really wasn't that bad. It did throw a lot of aluminum shavings around, but it cut right through it.

I forgot to take pictures before we started, but basically, my brother took the mani into work and built up weld around the inside of the runners so that the router bit could get an even cut the whole way around(earlier in the thread this problem popped up).

This is from the first time the runners were welded to the plenum back just for reference.


















I used the die grinder to blend the velocity stacks into the runners and clean up the weld imperfections.


















Not exactly perfect, but for a first attempt, I'll take it.









Hopefully CM gets the right clutch disk back to me this week so we can get the motor back in!


----------



## CerealKiler (May 10, 2011)

Just curious - why did you decide to make your own intake manifold? Are you going to be doing any flow testing on it?


----------



## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

CerealKiler said:


> Just curious - why did you decide to make your own intake manifold? Are you going to be doing any flow testing on it?


Mainly to save money. Intake manifolds aren't cheap for these cars. $700+ vs. the like $125 it
Will cost to finish this one. Not planning to do any flow testing.


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

i said the same thing when i built my car years ago.

i used a large port mani, made the plenum, opened up the runners, etc. was literally


----------



## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Vegeta Gti said:


> i said the same thing when i built my car years ago.
> 
> i used a large port mani, made the plenum, opened up the runners, etc. was literally


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

i love my IE stuff, i love the guys who work there and their products..but i haven't been impressed with the IE manifold so far in the couple of cars i have installed on...it lacks bottom end, it feels out of breath until boosting 15+.

but you may want a topend screamer, then if so..the Ie is def your manifold..bigboost and WOT constant it flows and rips.

all around fun and still tons of power, the SEM is great.

it is still in production.


----------



## CerealKiler (May 10, 2011)

GLIIII said:


> Good results.:thumbup: Maybe if I ever find someone with a sem or IE around the area I'll do a dyno comparison. Or maybe in the future once I'm not completely broke from buying other parts I'll get one. Haha.


Haha that's where I am at too. I know I'll have more $ later but I don't want the car sitting the whole time.


----------



## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

CerealKiler said:


> Haha that's where I am at too. I know I'll have more $ later but I don't want the car sitting the whole time.


Totally man. ****'s not cheap. I'd rather put the money into other stuff right now. The intake mani is easy to swap at any time. Haha.


----------



## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Motor is in!














































Now to get everything hooked up, build the down pipe/dump tube, build the intake, build the IC piping, finish the intake mani, get some powder coating done, and then get a tune.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Nice!


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Lurking in the shadows.


----------



## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)




----------



## mk3dream (Oct 12, 2008)

GLIIII said:


> Got the Pistons/Rods in over the weekend along with the oil filter housing and a few little things...
> Final Torque on all of the Rods.


wow got enough longblocks under your bench there 

Also its nice to know about those rads:thumbup: really like them. did the oem fan set mount without modification? 

and AC is for chicks :laugh:, 2 80 all day


----------



## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

It's not impossible to fit the ac condenser on the mishimoto radiator in the stock core support. It just takes a bit of modification to the condenser. You have to bend the dryer bracket away from the radiator, cut the core to clear the new dryer location, and cut the bracket holding the hose-flange on the drivers side, and move that out of the way a bit.

It takes a bit of work, but it's totally worth it if you want to keep the AC.


Oh yeah, be prepared for your radiator fittings to leak. Some just push the rubber hose over the aluminum fittings. I like cutting the fitting off and welding a proper hose barb on the radiator.


----------



## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

mk3dream said:


> wow got enough longblocks under your bench there
> 
> Also its nice to know about those rads:thumbup: really like them. did the oem fan set mount without modification?
> 
> and AC is for chicks :laugh:, 2 80 all day


Haha. Ya, those k series are going to be put together and swapped into my eg hatch once the gli is done. And the SR is one of my brothers extras. The old awp long block is also sitting around.:laugh: Too many projects.

The oem fan did mount up, but it had to be slightly modified. I had to drill the mounting holes out further so that they would match up and cut a little section out around the fan sensor so that it could sit over further.

AC might be for chicks, but when you are wearing dress pants and a long sleeve button up in the summer to go shoot a wedding, it sure does make a world of a difference.:laugh:


----------



## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Well, I already went ahead and deleted all of the AC lines. I'm just making it mandatory that we have to put AC in the hatch mentioned above when it gets k swapped.:laugh:

Really?? The plastic ones will leak? They seemed like a SOB to get on. I sure hope they don't. Would you recommend just taking them off from the start? Thanks for the info.:thumbup:




Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> It's not impossible to fit the ac condenser on the mishimoto radiator in the stock core support. It just takes a bit of modification to the condenser. You have to bend the dryer bracket away from the radiator, cut the core to clear the new dryer location, and cut the bracket holding the hose-flange on the drivers side, and move that out of the way a bit.
> 
> It takes a bit of work, but it's totally worth it if you want to keep the AC.
> 
> ...


----------



## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Yes. I wouldn't even bother with the OE fitting on the mishimoto barbs. If you double o- ring the fittings then they might seal. I've had them where they wouldn't leak, but if you jostle it just a little bit, they start spewing.

That's why I just weld real barbs on now.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## sliazafoxx31 (Mar 27, 2012)

great pics...tuned in!!
:thumbup::thumbup:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Intake manifold is at the local weld shop and should be done soon! 

After figuring out the final shape of the plenum, I took everything over to have them cut the top and bottom plates and weld everything up. 





































Can't wait to pick up the final product. Hoping everything comes out right.


----------



## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Intake manifold is finished! I am pretty happy with the overall outcome. Happy to finally see it done! 
Now time to get some crinkle black to finish it off.:thumbup:


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## CerealKiler (May 10, 2011)

Niiiiiiiiiice!!! How much was it total to make? 

Using all those dimes must have been pricey...


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## pluck yew (Oct 23, 2011)

man that is a thick backing plate. one thing i would do is flatten the TB flange where the welds are. help to make a flat surface for the TB. 

looking good!


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Thanks man! I don't have all of the receipts in front of me, but off the top of my head, I think it was right around $65 total to build it.:laugh: That includes matterials, hole saw, router bit, and welding. 



CerealKiler said:


> Niiiiiiiiiice!!! How much was it total to make?
> 
> Using all those dimes must have been pricey...


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

If you look earlier in the build thread, the think back plate is explained. I used it so that I could create velocity stacks into each runner and have plenty of material. I am deffinitly going to flatten those welds.:thumbup: 



pluck yew said:


> man that is a thick backing plate. one thing i would do is flatten the TB flange where the welds are. help to make a flat surface for the TB.
> 
> looking good!


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## CerealKiler (May 10, 2011)

GLIIII said:


> Thanks man! I don't have all of the receipts in front of me, but off the top of my head, I think it was right around $65 total to build it.:laugh: That includes matterials, hole saw, router bit, and welding.


 WAY better than $700 haha! I think this is what I am going to have to do... now to source a 12v lower intake!


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Right?? Haha. Just takes some time and work. Well worth it. 



CerealKiler said:


> WAY better than $700 haha! I think this is what I am going to have to do... now to source a 12v lower intake!


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## Dr.Bora (Feb 22, 2013)

great thread man!!!! could you give me some tips on where you tapped into for the turbo coolant lines and oil feed line?


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## goscha7452 (Jun 9, 2011)

Dr.Bora said:


> great thread man!!!! could you give me some tips on where you tapped into for the turbo coolant lines and oil feed line?


Is this a real question or a bit of trolling this guys thread??? Anyway here ya go. 

Oil feed is on the oil filter housing.

Oil return is on the oil pan.

Coolant feed is from the line leading behind the block on the passenger side of the head. (It leads away from the reservoir, not the head.)

Coolant return is on the back of the block biased to the passenger side.

Theres not a need for tapping on a car that came from the factory with an oil/water cooled turbo. Especially with the availability of adapters and flanges to plumb the system in.


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## Dr.Bora (Feb 22, 2013)

No trolling. I just wasn't too sure if it was just that easy to do the lines for an aftermarket turbo.


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## goscha7452 (Jun 9, 2011)

Dr.Bora said:


> No trolling. I just wasn't too sure if it was just that easy to do the lines for an aftermarket turbo.


Any off the shelf kit will have the appropriate fittings. CTS, PAG, ATP, 034 etc... all sell flange adapters and what not as well for the more custom build.


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## Dr.Bora (Feb 22, 2013)

yeah i kinda really looked into it and figured most of it out :banghead: thanks :thumbup:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Well, After losing all inspiration, my brother and I getting drift cars, putting a bunch of money into the s13, and simply being too busy to put quality time into the GLI, I can finally say that *I am ready to get back and finish the GLI!*:screwy::thumbup::wave:

Here's a life update.

This is how the car sat when I got it and how it sits now after 17x8.5 and 17x10 ESM 002rs, 5 lug swap, drilled and slotted rotors, corbeau fx1pro(which isn't in this photo), carbon hood and beat up hatch replaced, and bottoming everything out.




































And here is my brother's gem.









Before lip was on.


























After H2Oi, It's go time. See all of you down there! :wave::thumbup:


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Dope!

Theres a few peeps down here in SFL making big power in those cars.

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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

schwartzmagic said:


> Dope!
> 
> Theres a few peeps down here in SFL making big power in those cars.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


Yep! They take a beating that's for sure. My brother's other s13 will be in the 600whp range once it's back on the road.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

LS1>All

Plus a Turbo


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Dave926 said:


> LS1>All
> 
> Plus a Turbo


:laugh::laugh: I might LS swap mine. It is a stock KA, so I have been searching for a swap. Either going to go 1jz or LS1. Pretty much whatever I can find a good deal on. :laugh::thumbup:


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

My bud Karey (inspired engineering) made 800+ whp iirc on his KA. Its the newer 240 though. Look him up on youtube. Kedbmx

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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NM-fqL_YCS4&feature=youtube_gdata_player

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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

That's awesome man. I'd just build my KA if it wasn't going to cost so much. From what I've seen, it is cheaper to just buy a decent full swap instead of building the whole motor. And since I'm only looking for 300ish hp, I'm trying to keep cost down as much as possible.



schwartzmagic said:


> My bud Karey (inspired engineering) made 800+ whp iirc on his KA. Its the newer 240 though. Look him up on youtube. Kedbmx
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

nice build man, glad to see others doing detailed work in their garage. :beer:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

carsluTT said:


> nice build man, glad to see others doing detailed work in their garage. :beer:


Thanks man.:thumbup::wave:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Hey guys,

Here I am, 4ish years later after ghosting, still have yet to finish this build. :wave::facepalm:

Long story short, I lost interest, got other projects, moved to the west coast while the car remained on the east coast, got a crazy job that has me on the road 3/4 of the time, basically life and excuses got in the way.

But I'm back working on the car. I don't know if anyone on these forums even gives a **** about build threads on the 1.8t anymore, but I'm going to continue doing this so I have the final project to look back on in 2040 when it finally hits the road...



Recently I've been combing through the things that are showing their age in the engine bay. I've been removing cob webs, ordering parts, cleaning, shining, scrubbing, basically doing anything I can to make a car that has been sitting for years not look like a total waste of time.




*Here are a few of the recent projects:*
1: I have decided to ditch the custom intake manifold that I built previously in this build. I built the original one due to lack of funds, but this time around I've decided to go with the IE intake mani for ease of install/damn good looks.

IE Intake Mani, IE Fuel Rail, and Genesis II 1000cc injectors from USRT:



















2: At one point, another member told me that he had issues with the plastic radiator elbows sealing to the aluminum Mishimoto radiator, so my brother helped me fab up some leak proof coolant elbows to prevent any future issues. We decided to lengthen the lower elbow a bit to help space the radiator hose from the fans.



















3: Ordered some new fans, new alternator, and a new starter since they were all looking pretty rough from the years of sitting.










4: Last but not least, labeling. I'm going to pull the wiring harnesses out and try to simplify things a bit/update the old cracked plastic sheathing to make things look a little nicer. To be honest, it's been a bit of head ache guessing at where things used to go from memory. Especially with all of the SAI, Evap, N75, etc deleting that was done years ago. Haha.











*P.S. Sorry for all of the old broken photo links. Photobucket blows. Overtime, I'm going to try to go through and update them the best that I can.*


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Good to see you’re back at it - looking forward to updates :beer:


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Haha. 2040 when it hits the road. Glad your back at it, build threads are what keeps vortex alive in my opinion. Keeps me coming back anyway 


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## ArclitGold (Apr 21, 2009)

Agreed. In for updates. 


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

My brother fabbed this down pipe and dump tube several years ago after I first moved to CA, but it never made it onto the build page. Stainless & Vbanded.


















Tonight they got some DEI Titanium exhaust wrap to try to keep the engine bay temps under control.

















It bugs the **** out of me that I came up a few inches short with my wrap estimate. :what: Oh well...should do its job.









That cable tie gun really worked wonders on getting the ties good and tight and leaving a clean trimmed edge. I highly recommend it over the old plier trick


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Got the new alternator, starter, radiator with the welded elbows, fans, and the radiator shroud on this weekend. Replaced all of the old crappy looking hardware with new stainless stuff. Also, Gonna ditch the factory crash bar and build a tube one once we build and fit the intercooler & piping.





































Waiting for a bunch of odds and ends to show up, then I should have a complete fueling system. More progress then. :thumbup:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Started piecing the Intake together last night.


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## tylerlb (Jun 13, 2004)

definitely want to follow this but even your new pics don;t work for me. Not sure if it's me or you :laugh: Anyone else see them?


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

tylerlb said:


> definitely want to follow this but even your new pics don;t work for me. Not sure if it's me or you :laugh: *Anyone else see them?*


Nope, latest ones leave a lot to the imagination...


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

What the hell! Really? I took so much time to go back and re-upload photos. Haha. They all show on my end. :banghead:

What site is everyone using to link photos these days?


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## c3cars (Dec 27, 2010)

*Tapatalk*

I purchased Taptalk premium one time payment, and I use tapatalk to upload all my pictures. All of my photos are still hosted by Tapatalk after 3 years.:thumbup:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

I finally went through and updated all of these offline photos, so hopefully they work for everyone! (screw photobucket)

We've been making a lot of progress on the car lately.

We started building a tube bumper:



























I got a set of Vibra-Technics Race Motor Mounts:


















We finished fabricating the Intake and built the IC Piping:






























































The Intake and IC Piping are off at the local powder coater's getting a nice coat of textured black:thumbup:

Rather than going the traditional route of tucking the hideous power steering reservoir under the frame rail, we decided to build a new reservoir in its place using AN fittings and braided line:












































(I dont have any internal photos of the PS reservoir baffling, but it is very similar to the return side of the catch can below)

We also built this Catch Can to go along with the style of the PS reservoir:






















































Once these are welded completely, they will get a coat of texture black with a nice polished Never Lift Auto Fab logo plate for my brother's fabrication shop. :thumbup:

Hope all of these photos work for you guys. :thumbup::snowcool:


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## mainstayinc (Oct 4, 2006)

GLIIII said:


> I finally went through and updated all of these offline photos, *so hopefully they work for everyone!* (screw photobucket)


Photos seem to be working fine. Also, great fabrication work! The custom power steering reservoir and catch can are amazing. I assume the car is still in Lewisburg, PA. That's not too far from me.


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## tylerlb (Jun 13, 2004)

Fab and setup look awesome!!

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## ticketed2much (Feb 18, 2012)

Looks great!


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## ticketed2much (Feb 18, 2012)

Double post


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

mainstayinc said:


> Photos seem to be working fine. Also, great fabrication work! The custom power steering reservoir and catch can are amazing. I assume the car is still in Lewisburg, PA. That's not too far from me.


Yeah, Still in the Lewisburg area.

Thanks guys! Stoked on how they turned out. Here's both after finishing the welding today. :thumbup:.


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

Excellent work! :thumbup:


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## KentGTiKR (Apr 17, 2008)

Really nice welds !


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Got rid of most of the old cracked plastic sheathing on the harness.














































IC Piping and Intake also came back from powder coat. :thumbup:


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Nice work on the harness. Looks great 


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Doesn't look like much, but got quite a few loose ends tied up today.

Changed the 5 year old Royal Purple Break In Oil out for some fresh RP Break In Oil, Got the power steering pulley and belt installed, Put some new heater core hoses on, Installed the billet dipstick tube, Finalized the wiring/hoses under the intake manifold and got the intake manifold on and torqued, and got a couple of the braided lines for the power steering reservoir and catch can put together.

(Sorry for the limited photos)


















Still have to tackle the wiring for the inline fuel pump, finish the engine bay side of the battery relocation, get my tune sorted out, then it's mainly small things from there. :thumbup:


Has anyone had experience with tunes from GTS Performance? I bought a Custom Stage 4 tune with the Remote Tuning flasher several weeks ago when they had a holiday sale and I can't seem to get in contact with them. I sent one e-mail a few days after the original purchase asking if there was a modification list I had to fill out to get my custom tune, I then received an e-mail telling me to text a number for further instructions, so I did on 2 separate days and never got a response. I waited a few days then e-mailed them back, and once again no response. So I waited a couple more days and sent another e-mail and 2 days later, still no response?

I'm going to try calling them tomorrow, but has anyone else ran into this? What's the best way to reach them?


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Been slacking taking photos of the progress we've made.

Got the IC piping and Air Intake on, Got most of the battery relocation done, cleaned up some more wiring, etc.

Going to drill holes in the side of the battery box to run the power and ground a little cleaner. (Don't mind the mess of parts in the trunk)









I also have to mount this distribution block, connect the new wiring, and figure out a more permanent way to mount the factory distribution block under the frame rail to finish things up.


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## cruzanstx (Oct 10, 2011)

Do you have a part list for the battery relocation? I was gonna do something similiar with my audi tt 225, ended up using a braille drycell but it sucks if you dont drive it weekly. I'm mainly the rubber box and hole downs.


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

The plastic battery box was a spare I've had laying around for a while, but you can buy them off Jegs or Summit. The battery mount kit I actually got from my local Tractor Supply. They are just standard L shaped battery hold down mounts and I drilled a hole through the bottom of the box and then through the bottom of the trunk for them to hook into. Then I made the top battery hold down piece out of a spare piece of aluminum we had laying around the shop.




cruzanstx said:


> Do you have a part list for the battery relocation? I was gonna do something similiar with my audi tt 225, ended up using a braille drycell but it sucks if you dont drive it weekly. I'm mainly the rubber box and hole downs.


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Finally got to Sand Blasting and Powder Coating the Power Steering Reservoir and Catch Can we built!









https://imgur.com/jnlok19 (Link to video since it wont play)


















https://imgur.com/spEV7wU (Link to video since it wont play)


















https://imgur.com/0f6Jqkh (Link to video since it wont play)



























https://i.imgur.com/ym3tZudl.mp4 (Link to video since it wont play)




























These were my first attempt at powder coating. Not too shabby for a first go! :thumbup:



















Now to blast and powder coat the Valve Cover. :thumbup:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Got the Valve Cover powder coated and it turned out pretty darn good for being new to powder coating! I went with a metallic red. The metallic really pops, but it's kind of hard to tell in the photos, so I took some videos also.



























https://imgur.com/WKdMWTe (Video of metallic)


















https://imgur.com/sJacXmL (Video of metalic)


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## ArclitGold (Apr 21, 2009)

Wow. This is just awesome. Wanna sell some catch cans?


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

ArclitGold said:


> Wow. This is just awesome. Wanna sell some catch cans?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Haha Not at the moment. We've got too many projects going on at the shop already. But maybe in the future!


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Got the air intake and filter back on, made the valve cover breather catch can braided line, got the blow off valve on, mounted the boost controller and got the coil packs and coil pack hold downs on.













































I don't have a specific photo of the boost controller, but we mounted it to the firewall just above the brake booster.


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## ticketed2much (Feb 18, 2012)

Looks great! How long till your ready to fire it up?


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Not too long. I've gotta wire the inline fuel pump, get an 02 bung in the down pipe, install my wide band and boost gauge, then get back in contact with Gonzo to get my tune file and I can attempt to fire it up!



ticketed2much said:


> Looks great! How long till your ready to fire it up?


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## jettwolfymk4 01 (Nov 29, 2012)

Hi GLIIII,your built look good.Awesome custom fabric skills! I presume Gonzo 1000cc tune?


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Thank you! Yes, It'll be a Gonzo Stage 4 custom tune.



jettwolfymk4 01 said:


> Hi GLIIII,your built look good.Awesome custom fabric skills! I presume Gonzo 1000cc tune?


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

I didn't get any photos of tonights work, but I got the inline Walbro fuel pump wired up.

The list of To Do's before we can fire it up are getting smaller and smaller! Didn't feel like that day would ever be near. :laugh:

Gotta weld an o2 bung in the downpipe, get the Wide Band and Boost Gauge hooked up, and after that all I have to do is get my base file from Gonzo. I'm hoping to hear from him tomorrow so I can get the file loaded in and we may be able to fire it up!


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## jettwolfymk4 01 (Nov 29, 2012)

For make good power you whant a DEATSCHWERKS DW65v HIGH-FLOW FUEL PUMP from 034.Walbro inline is garbage.I run a similar setup than you thats why im telling.Mine was overheating and work like **** and not delivering enough fuel.


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

I wasn't aware that anyone made a drop in replacement fuel pump. I don't think that existed when I started my build. That's awesome. Thank you for the info. I know I'll be pushing the Walbro Inline pretty far, but they say it's good to 450hp which was my original goal. If I have any issues with it I'll look into going this route. :thumbup:



jettwolfymk4 01 said:


> For make good power you whant a DEATSCHWERKS DW65v HIGH-FLOW FUEL PUMP from 034.Walbro inline is garbage.I run a similar setup than you thats why im telling.Mine was overheating and work like **** and not delivering enough fuel.


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## jettwolfymk4 01 (Nov 29, 2012)

No probleme!I maxed mine whit a gt2860rs..I think there is one dor sale on classified canadien part for 150$ cad.


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Well, Gonzo started the remote flash process for my tune yesterday evening around 6pm. However, after about 30-40 minutes of getting his programs installed, licensing the software, etc. I got a text message that said "Actually im gonna need a mod list on this and an hour or so". I didn’t hear anything back lastnight or today, so I'm crossing my fingers that he just had a busy valentines day and that I hear back tomorrow! The car is ready to fire up for the first time, the tune is the last thing I am waiting on at this point.





























In the mean time, I installed a P3 Boost Gauge today. This thing looks pretty awesome.

I opted for the gauge not installed in a vent since it was $100 less if you assemble it yourself. The process was pretty straight forward!
































































This is battery Voltage check since the car isn't running for vacuum or boost.









Hopefully I will be posting a start up video tomorrow!! *Crosses fingers*


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

I didn't know if I'd ever see this day. We got the car to turn over tonight! Haha. :thumbup:

*Thursday night* Gonzo remote flashed the ECU. Apparently the laptop I was using is too slow for tune flashing, but after a few attempts he got the process to complete.

Then after he was finished, we disconnected the plugs from the coil packs, removed the turbo oil line and cranked the motor over until we had oil at the turbo line. Once we knew we had oil, we put the coil pack harness back on and attempted to fire the motor over. It cranked and cranked and sounded like it was going to turn over time after time, but we couldn't get it to fire.

After multiple attempts we started to run over the simple things to make sure everything was in order. We had spark, we knew we had fuel cause it smelled way too rich, we checked fuel line orientation, we cleaned the spark plugs several times, and checked the injector plugs multiple times, but still no luck. 

By the end of the night we had Open Circuit codes for each injector(later I realized this was cause we cranked the motor with them unplugged) and a MAP Sensor code.



*Then today we went back,* I checked O2 Sensor orientation, tried a new set of spark plugs, did a compression test, swapped the new BOSCH MAP Sensor that I had for an old OEM Sensor(Which cured that code), googled and googled different possibilities, then kind of on a whim my brother asked about the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I'm pretty sure that was the one sensor that hadn't been changed during the build. I said F*&^ it and ran to Advance Auto to get a new one. Installed it and the car fired up instantly. What are the chances!

There's still some bugs to work out. I now have "Camshaft Position Sensor" and "Random Cylinder Misfire" codes, so HOPEFULLY a new Camshaft Position Sensor will take care of those.

Overall I'm just stoked that we got it to fire. Pretty crazy that it has been 5 years!

Alright I'll shut up now...


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## brunjc2 (Jul 24, 2017)

Congrats!! Keep us updated post-build too.


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Thanks man. This was the first night we got it to start. We can get it to fire if I do the de-flood technique of holding the gas pedal to the floor on start up, but If I don't do this, the car will just continue to crank without starting. Been trying to diagnose it for a few days now. :banghead::facepalm:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

For a week or so, we were fighting to find a reason as to why we couldn't get the car to turn over without using the flood clear technique. We did all of the normal tests that we could think of and still ended up coming up short. After researching and researching I was about to pull the rain tray off and dig into the wiring, but I watched a youtube video where a guy showed that if you put the damper pulley bolts into the crank gear but don't tighten them, there is quite a bit of slop back and forth on the damper pulley which could put your timing mark off 1/2 - 1 tooth and you might not even realize it because it looks right on the damper pulley. After watching that, I decided to pull the lower damper pulley off to check crank gear timing without the damper pulley installed.

Sure enough, It turns out that the crank was advanced 1 tooth. I pulled everything apart, and when I attempted to fix the timing the first time, I set the cam gear mark at TDC, pulled the belt off and turned the crank back to what looked like the correct timing. When I tightened the belt and double checked my marks, the crank had turned and I was right back to where I had started. This must have been how I got it off in the first place. I had to turn the crank back 1 tooth past where it lined up with the timing mark, then when I tightened the belt it pulled it back into the correct timing position.

I guess that proves that no matter how meticulous you are when assembling things, you're still bound to f*$% up sooner or later. :sly::facepalm:


And as if that wasn't enough... When we did get the car to turn over a couple times using the flood clear technique before fixing the timing, there was always a small puddle of oil under the motor. After tracing the leak, I painfully realized that it was coming from the rear main seal. :thumbdown: I'm not sure if it started leaking cause the motor sat for 5 years without moving and the oil used to lube the seal had dried up by the time we cranked it or if the seal was damaged on install. The seal looked alright when I pulled it off, so .

Needless to say, we had to drop the transmission out of the car and get that fixed as well...


















We had a hell of a time getting the trans out past the subframe, but after fighting it long enough, it finally dropped out.









This little bastard.









New OEM Rear Main Seal, RP Break In Oil, and Redline MT90


















Back on we go.


















Everything is back on and ready to go. I also installed my new headlights. :thumbup:




























Once everything was back together the car fired right up. So far so good!

Here's a little idle video showing idle AFR's on Gonzo's Base File at normal operating temp





I'm hoping to take this thing out for the first drive this evening!:wave:


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Nice work man. It seems to always be something with bigger builds. Glad you got her all figured out. Now enjoy all the hard work 


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Nice work man. It seems to always be something with bigger builds. Glad you got her all figured out. Now enjoy all the hard work
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


\

Thanks man! I can't wait to take it for a drive! It has been far too long. Haha.


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

After 5 long years, this thing finally moved on its own power tonight!

Don't mind the whining power steering pump and ****ty driving video. These were the only videos I got and I figured it was worth posting something of the car moving. Haha.






The car drove pretty well overall. It didn't like coming to a stop after driving. When the RPM's fell, they would drop too far and it wanted to stall out unless I burped the throttle as the RPM's were falling. Once I burped the throttle it would idle just fine. It was also breaking up once in a while when slowly rolling into the throttle before it started to build more than just a few pounds of boost. I'm not sure if these were due to needing to do a throttle body adaptation or if there is something else causing this. AFR's look pretty good, they seam to be a little lean at times. When I roll into the throttle, where it should get more rich, it seems to stay fairly lean. 

I'm leaving for a few days, but I'll take it out for another drive when I get back to try to nail down these symptoms. :thumbup::wave:


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## jettwolfymk4 01 (Nov 29, 2012)

Nice work congradulation!!


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## G-zo (Oct 16, 2016)

Following :thumbup:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

*New Shoes!*

It has been a long time since I've updated this thread. Traveling non stop for work this summer has made it extremely hard to find time to sort out the little post build bugs, but I think I finally have the car running good. *knock on wood*

However, of course once I got the car running right and took it for a test drive, I found a newly torn axel boot afterwards that threw another wrench in the gears.

So, after that I bought a set of the Raxel Bulletproof V2.1b axels which are guaranteed up to 498whp. And I figured while I was changing the axels, I might as well get the suspension work out of the way, so I also purchased a set of BC BR Coilovers and an upgraded ECS coilover install kit.

Thennnnn I met up with another forum member and picked up these 2 Piece welded Fifteen52 R34 Tarmacs in 18x8" et19 & 18x9.5" et30.

Now I have a set of Bridgestone Potenza S007a's on the way. :facepalm: I'm going to be homeless before this car is done. Haha eace:


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## Philip J. Fry (Jan 1, 2005)

Enjoy the wheels, Cody. Good meeting you and looking forward to continuing to see the progress with your build. :thumbup:


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## Icecruncher (Oct 7, 2018)

Awesome stuff. It will be years before I put this much effort into a motor myself but I do plan on reaching the 300whp mark sometime next year. For now I will stick to finishing my 20hp 20,000rpm 2 stroke scooter. This definitely motivated me and made other tasks feel small and stress free. Thanks! I cannot wait to see a video of you dragging it or even a dyno run.


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Philip J. Fry said:


> Enjoy the wheels, Cody. Good meeting you and looking forward to continuing to see the progress with your build. :thumbup:


Thanks Philip! Great meeting you as well! I just got the wheels on the car this weekend and they look awesome!



Icecruncher said:


> Awesome stuff. It will be years before I put this much effort into a motor myself but I do plan on reaching the 300whp mark sometime next year. For now I will stick to finishing my 20hp 20,000rpm 2 stroke scooter. This definitely motivated me and made other tasks feel small and stress free. Thanks! I cannot wait to see a video of you dragging it or even a dyno run.


Haha, This project has been a love/hate relationship from the start. It is a continued effort between traveling for work, life getting in the way, and working on other things in the garage. I think it's finally about to be at the point where I can get the 1000 break-in miles on it and then turn the boost up. Then comes LSD and who knows what else. :screwy::facepalm:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Over the last week or so, I've spent a lot of time trying to get this thing drive-able. I ordered a set of Raxles bulletproof V2.1b axles(which should be good to 500whp), BC BR Coilovers, ECS Tuning Suspension Re-fresh kit, Bridgestone Potenza S007A's and got everything installed and dialed in. Sorry for the lack of actual install process photos!












































First time back on the ground with the new axles and suspension!


















And here is final ride height. I didn't want to go crazy low with it since it is built to go fast, but I am pretty happy with the overall fitment of the wheels/tires!

My alignment guy is supposed to come get everything straightened out in the next few days, then hopefully I can start knocking miles off the break in cycle??? *fingers crossed*


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

I broke mine in like I stole it. There’s different theories but that’s how most built high RPM crotch rockets are done. Seat the rings in under boost. Warm up, a light pulls to judge the boost, adjust if necessary, then hammer down.


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Brake Weight said:


> I broke mine in like I stole it. There’s different theories but that’s how most built high RPM crotch rockets are done. Seat the rings in under boost. Warm up, a light pulls to judge the boost, adjust if necessary, then hammer down.



Hahaha. I've done a few short drives and tried to lug the motor to get the rings to seat as much as possible. I'd like to get 1000 miles on it and change the break in oil for normal oil before I go throwing a bunch of boost/rpm's at it. It is still on the break-in tune as well, so I've gotta get a few data logs done and send them back to Gonzo to do any tweaking.


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

Any updates GLIIII?

I can't believe I just went through 5 years of thread!

Amazing attention to detail, super fab skills too and the car just looks great!:thumbup:


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Converted2VW said:


> Any updates GLIIII?
> 
> I can't believe I just went through 5 years of thread!
> 
> Amazing attention to detail, super fab skills too and the car just looks great!:thumbup:


Haha Thanks for looking! Stoked to see someone still looking at these. Haha.

*Here's an update:*

As per usual, I've gotten busy traveling for work and it has been winter in PA, so a few months have gone by without much time put into the car.

However, the car has been aligned and this past week my brother and I finally built new 3" stainless exhaust for the car. It's 3" Vband & Catless with a round Borla XR-1 Muffler and 4" Polished Double Walled Magnaflow tip.


























































I finally got the car out to start putting the break-in miles on it since the weather has started to look better in PA








The whole car needs re-painted :facepalm:












*Now that I am in the process of putting miles on the car, I am getting codes P0300, P0301, P0302, and P0304(Which I used to get before the build too. I just hoped they would go away with all of the new components). The car seems to drive/cruise fine(like it did pre-build), but at times the idle is a little off and the RPM's and AFR's fall till the car sputters then the RPM's and AFR's jump back up to 14.2 or so, then fall lean again. Yesterday at 2 red lights when down shifting to stop, the car shut off completely when the rpm's dropped. The car fired right back up and drove fine the rest of the night(and this hasn't happened again in the past 40miles or so).

For obvious reasons, I haven't taken the car much over 4500ish rpm's, however the AFR's never seem to richen up as you roll into the throttle. Today when under slightly increased throttle I was only seeing 13-14 on the wideband at 16lbs of boost. This seems awfully lean to me? Could these missfire codes be causing the car to run lean like this under throttle or is this more likely to be in the tune?


This all being said, I've now got more figuring out to do. Since these missfire codes are the same ones we were chasing pre-build, I am wondering if I could I have a bad ECU? The tune seems to need Data logged & adjusted as well. I'm not sure if one issue is affecting the other or not? :facepalm:

If anyone has any concrete ideas or thoughts on what may cause this, I would greatly appreciate them.*


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## ArclitGold (Apr 21, 2009)

Looking gorgeous. That exhaust is art!


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

ArclitGold said:


> Looking gorgeous. That exhaust is art!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Haha thanks dude! I'm pretty stoked on it! If you need any fab work, hit up Justin @neverliftautofab on instagram!


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## ArclitGold (Apr 21, 2009)

Good to know! Keep this build goin!


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Should make that down pipe 2 pieces. You'll thank me later. 

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