# ABA/JH Swap



## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*By the pricking of my thumbs, something wicked this way comes! *
Cue remix of "Bad to the Bone" and "I am Ironman" mashup...
Now that the mood is set let's look at the easiest and cheapest way to enhance the performance of your A1 whether Cabby or Rabbit.
*The ABA/JH hybrid motor swap.*
Is that ol' JH is leaking like a sieve and can't outrun the family station wagon any more? Time to swap engines. But it's not as hard to do as you might think.
You must have a modicum of mechanical skills. If you can change your own clutch you can do this swap.
First you need an ABA engine. I got mine from a junkyard for $150, complete
with serpentine belt drives and other bolted on stuff. You WON'T need the fuel injection harness and parts unless you plan to swap over all that stuff but for this swap we won't be doing that. I've seen several $250 ABAs for sale lately with complete harnesses and parts so that's your price range. Detemining the mileage on an ABA is a bit difficult since the A3s these engines were in had electronic odometers which won't be working in the junkyard.








ABA's are 2.0 liter 4 cylinder 8v engines ( 114 hp) found in 1992-present Volkswagen Golf, Volkswagen Jetta, Volkswagen Passat and Volkswagen New Beetles. The heads are crossflow types. meaning the exhaust and intakes are on opposite sides of the head. While you can make that work in an A1 you're asking for more work. Our swap will use the existing JH head (solid lifter or hydraulic doesn't matter) That allows us to not have to do any rewiring, no plumbing changes to the fuel injection regardless of DigiFant or CIS, no relocation of components.
Once you have your engine you'll need to clean it up and verify it's reasonably in good shape. Once that's done I pull the head. Leave the intake and exhaust manifolds on it it still attached. It makes it easier to handle and they won't be needed. Removal of the head is the same as any 8V VW engine. Drain the coolant out first. While you're at it drain the oil. Eventually you'll have this block upside down and all the oil will drain out and make a mess. Trust me on this.

Check out the bores. You should be able to see a light crosshatching and not
much if any carbon build-up on the pistons. Turn the engine upside down and pull the flywheel and pressure plate off. The usual ABA flywheel and clutch is too big to use with your 020 transmission. You won't need it anyway. Now pull off the oil pan. Inspect the pan for frothy brown stuff, shavings, small parts, rodents and sludge. If you want to get really crazy pull the bearing caps and check the crank journals for wear. Or not if you trust the source of your engine. Clean out the oil pan and paint it while it's off.
Clean up the engine and paint it. Pull the serp belt brackets off if you are so
inclined. They bolt back on easy enough.
*NEW PARTS*
You'll need a few things to make this work.
1. 16V head gasket. Only way to make the JH head work on the ABA.
2. Breather block off kit.








Not actually mandatory but makes life much easier on you later. Make sure you install the freeze plug but you'll need to remove the serp belt bracket to get access. See Techtonics Tuning for the kit.







http://techtonicstuning.com/sh...3.135

3. Distributor gear and bushing Kit.








http://techtonicstuning.com/sh....146 
This is required if you use a distributor from a usual 8V engine. You can also
decide to swap a CIS or Digifant shutter wheel onto the ABA distributor. Here
are some links to study while you make your decision.

4. Knock sensor ECU and harness. See above links for more information. This
combo should give you a compression ratio of 10:1 which will cause
predetonation if the gas is bad and timing isn't right. And it destroys engines
so VW came up with this to solve the problem. 
5. Exhaust "solution"
The ABA is 16mm taller than your old block. This causes 2 problems. The
throttle lever may hit on the rain tray and catch/stick. You'll need to bend it
out of the way. The stock A1 exhaust may no longer be able to reach the exhaust manifold without bumping into the body. Solutions are to cut and extend the pipe, put in longer studs and make a 16mm spacer. Most 4 into 1 headers and 4-2-1 headers will clear fine. TT used to make a race downpipe for the dual outlet manifold and it clears fine as well. You could also use the ABA exhaust manifold on your JH head and Techtonic's stainless steel flex downpipe.
Expensive but comes with a short shift kit as well and should last forever.








http://techtonicstuning.com/sh...1.223
6. Serp belt AC delete kit.
http://techtonicstuning.com/sh...0.040








Use this if you don't have/want an AC compressor in the serp belt system. It
uses a VR6 serp belt "pulley' for the water pump. And a shorter serp belt.
That's about it. Simple list.
Pull your JH head off the engine that's still in the car. Again do not remove
the intake and exhaust manifolds unless you really have a need to. Drain the fluids now. It'll make a mess later if you don't. Trust me.
Disconnect everything. Careful with the wiring since it's 25 years old and will
crack on you if bent too far. Pull the engine and transmission out. Separate
the two. Pull the old engine off to the side.
Clean up the engine bay while it's empty. You'll thank yourself later.
Put together the ABA except for the head/manifolds. The upper timing cover will not fit correctly, frankly I got rid of mine. Modify it if you feel the need.
Make sure the serp belt system is together and working. This is a good time to put on a new timing belt. Use clutch, flywheel and pressure plate from original engine. Tip: good time to put in new clutch. While you're at it put in a new 16V pressure plate to handle the new power levels you'll be rocking. What the heck use a lightened flywheel as well it has it's advantage if only to make it easier to remove the oilpan screws. Paint the timing marks now while you have a chance.








Take the oil sensors and temp sensors out of the old block and put them into the proper holes on the ABA. You'll need to reuse the black water pipe that wraps around the engine.
Last time, go around the engine and make sure it's clean, tight, painted and
ready to go. Put the new block in the car. Bolt up the tranny. Now put on the 16V headgasket. It may not fit since the line up pilot stud was too big to fit in
the hole in the gasket. Very carefully drill it out to fit. Deburr it as well. http://merlyyn.com/images/swap/gaskethole.jpg[/IMG]
Once it's on you can put the head on. Once torqued on correctly you can start hooking things up. Feed it water and oil as needed.
Set the static timing. Install the distributor. Time it. If you use the knock
sensor setup make sure it's hooked up correctly.
Since you never replaced the fuel injection system it's ready to go. Once
everything is hooked up you're ready to go!
Notes:
If you choose to use the distributor gear kit you'll need to drill out the pin.
Look at both ends of the pin. One side is obviously split. On that side
centerpunch a hole (and make sure it's centered!) Drill there with a 5/16"
drill bit. If it's a fresh bit it'll go thru with no problem. The shaft is much
harder than the pin and if the drill bits a bit off it'll recenter rather than
drill into the shaft. Hammering out the pin is a major pain, don't bother
trying. Put the bushing on first then the gear. The roll pin in the kit can be
removed later and easily. http://merlyyn.com/images/swap/distrib.jpg

The throttle cable end will bump into the rain tray. You must dent this
otherwise the cable will stick or fall off. Neither is good. I cut out a notch to make it work. [IMG]http://merlyyn.com/images/swap/throttle.jpg
The passenger side motor mount needs t either have the old alternator mount under it or a spacer of some sort. I chose to eliminate the old mount and used 8mm nuts, drilled out, as spacers. Nice and clean.









Use the ABA power steering brackets and pump. You KUST use the Mk3 pump as the pully spacing is different. The cabby's hoses will hook right up. You will need a belt that fits and that 'snot the ABA belt or the JH belt. Go to the autostore and tell them you need a belt about so long. They'll eventually find what you need. And buy an extra.








This is a strong setup. Lots of comfortable torque. Very rev happy.
I'll add more as I think of it.



























_Modified by Moljinar at 9:34 PM 10-19-2009_


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## MrBailey (Jun 18, 2008)

*Re: ABA/JH Swap (Moljinar)*

Awesome! I'm thinking of doing this swap in my car. This is just what I needed. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

*Re: ABA/JH Swap (MrBailey)*

Oran, no issues on your car with the serp belt tensioner and the unibody rail? Just got my ABA in this weekend and my freaking belt tensioner just barely hits the unibody rail. Jus thinking about it, maybe try loosening up the mount bolts and trying to just "adjust" the engine to the driver's side a bit? IIRC I'm pretty far that way already. Maybe it's my wrinkled up rail causing the issues.


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: ABA/JH Swap (YJSAABMAN)*

Mine misses by about a 1/4 to 1/2 " . I've heard of others having issues but mine clears like a champ. Use as big hammer and flatten the rail there.


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## native-texan_in_tn (Apr 15, 2006)

*Re: ABA/JH Swap (Moljinar)*

Excellent writeup, Oran... This swap is likely what I'll prefer on the next go 'round with mine just for the sheer ease with which it can be done compared to others (you realize that I just jinxed myself, of course...). Looking forward to seeing how the power steering ultimately works out, too. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

*Re: ABA/JH Swap (native-texan_in_tn)*

Yup, BFH is the plan. Doesn't need much. Like I said, I may try to wiggle the whole shootin' match over to the driver's side a bit, first. Also going to look at the ABF setups, as I still might have some alt/carb issues. Need to get a manifold to at least test fit.


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: ABA/JH Swap (YJSAABMAN)*

Got the gauges hooked back up and looks like I'm getting 28 -39 mpg!


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## bbrown (Apr 10, 2009)

*Re: ABA/JH Swap (Moljinar)*

Nice! More performance and economy.


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## foxontherun (Dec 6, 2006)

*FV-QR*

can't wait for mine to be done. though, mine hasn't seemed nearly this easy...


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## boxerpicker (Jun 28, 2009)

awesome write up im going to do the swap same as your and i will add turbo same time too. im curious is there any intake mainfold that have big ports then i can custom weld them to put in my 8v its like i use them as my flange


_Modified by boxerpicker at 10:56 PM 10-23-2009_


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: (boxerpicker)*

NY_Fam in the MK1 forum sliced open several dozen 8V intake manifolds and found all of them roughly the same on port size. He has a service where he will take your manifold and open it up and smooth all the transitions as well. Proven good for 6-10 hp on a stock engine!! I'm going to have it done myself someday.
Meanwhile the best thing to do is a larger throttle body such as from an Audi turbo 5000 or an A2 (requires modification) and then open up the manifold opening to match the larger throttle opening. PS I did do this and it was worth it!!


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## native-texan_in_tn (Apr 15, 2006)

*Re: (Moljinar)*

Oran, you're a bad influence! <chuckle> You've planted the seeds of another hybrid swap here, especially if I run across an ABA down in Nashville (the primary reason I want to make the trip to their Pull-A-Part location). It just doesn't look like it would cost all that much more than doing a rebuild on the JH I just finished pulling from my parts car last weekend. Downtime on my daily-driver would be minimal, too, since I now have the spare 8-valve head and 1.8 distributor... Engine bay cleanup and rain-tray clearancing wouldn't take long, either... Hmmm... 
My questions include Buffy's exhaust size and whether she is purposely loud, as you mentioned. I've been perusing TT's offerings and researching the quietest/non-bumblebee options... I'd use the manifold off the A3 head and one of TT's downpipes if funds allowed, or, failing that, have the extension fabricated locally (we won't discuss _my_ welding/brazing skills!)...
Have you set up your knock sensor yet or is that still on the to-do list? I can't seem to find the write-up (and I'm sure there are several) for adding it to the 1.8's ignition... (EDIT: If I had looked long enough in Kammy's Cabby-Info, I'd have found what I was looking for!







http://www.driversfound.com/sc...nsor/ ).
If one chooses _not_ to delete the a/c, I assume the only issue will be the ongoing power steering conversion that you've been studying, correct?
Considering my recent introduction to passenger motor mount Hades (nothing quite like starting off the very first time at the bottom, eh? <chuckle>), how bad are the mounts on the ABA? And are you using stock or the stiffer mounts? Just curious... 
Just a few things that occurred to me as I ponder this... Thanks for sharing the swap with us!











_Modified by native-texan_in_tn at 8:52 AM 10-24-2009_


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: (native-texan_in_tn)*

The exhuast is loud because I have a straight thru muffler (Dynomax I think) and with the race downpipe, no cat and TT cat-back system it's failry loud-ish. Add the punch of a ABA and it's louder. Nice bark and crackle. SOunds like a large tractor at intowen cruising but open 'er up and everyone takes notice!
Simply putting a regular hi-po muffler like a Borla on there sound be reasonably quite for you. 
KNock sensor wiring gets done tomorrow I think. Would've not been needed but I couldn't get the harness out in one piece so I have wires to splice. I have CIS-E distributor ready to go. 
If you are keeping the AC you'll have to use the AC that comes with the ABA IF you intend to keep the serp belt system. AND My info says that the AC lines won't bolt up without modification. You may want to visit someone's A3 to see what's what. If you use the JH's brackets and belts you'll be ok . And at that point powersteering would be no problem. 
The ABA in an A3chassis has no passenger side mount. It uses a funky rear/passenger mount you won't need/can't use. The holes were there for my A1 passenger mount but I know recall the threads weren't in good shape. I had to chase the threads with a tap to clean them out. Then my mount went on fine. As for the stock mount I have no issues. In fact the ABA seems to idle smoother and vibrate less. Possibly an effect of the longer rods? 
The more I drive this car I'm convinced this is what VW should've put in our cars from the beginning. Or at least made a GT version with it


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## native-texan_in_tn (Apr 15, 2006)

*Re: (Moljinar)*

Thanks for the info for this is precisely what I was looking for, Oran...

_Quote, originally posted by *Moljinar* »_The exhuast is loud because I have a straight thru muffler (Dynomax I think) and with the race downpipe, no cat and TT cat-back system it's failry loud-ish. 
Simply putting a regular hi-po muffler like a Borla on there sound be reasonably quite for you. 

Understand perfectly... From all I've read thus far, the Borla on a high-performance system would be my preferred set-up... I can live with sacrificing a wee bit of hp just to keep a high-flow cat and relatively quiet exhaust. 
I'm wondering if the 2-inch upgrade is sufficient or is larger necessary? I'm obviously after functionality instead of simply installing the largest diameter possible... And wouldn't back-pressure be affected at some point, too, by excessive diameter? These are rather basic questions, I realize... 

_Quote, originally posted by *Moljinar* »_
KNock sensor wiring gets done tomorrow I think. Would've not been needed but I couldn't get the harness out in one piece so I have wires to splice. I have CIS-E distributor ready to go. 


I presume that obtaining a distributor from one of the knock sensor-equipped vehicles would be preferable to modifying the CIS distributor? I'll have to read up on this more, obviously...

_Quote, originally posted by *Moljinar* »_If you are keeping the AC you'll have to use the AC that comes with the ABA IF you intend to keep the serp belt system. AND My info says that the AC lines won't bolt up without modification. You may want to visit someone's A3 to see what's what. If you use the JH's brackets and belts you'll be ok . And at that point powersteering would be no problem. 


Hmm... Definitely food for thought. I'll have to take a look at the A3 set up and fittings and see what the possibilities are. I love the looks of the serpentine arrangement but an initial swap utilizing the JH belt arrangement and brackets may be the way to go 'til I've got more time to play with it.

_Quote, originally posted by *Moljinar* »_The ABA in an A3chassis has no passenger side mount. It uses a funky rear/passenger mount you won't need/can't use. The holes were there for my A1 passenger mount but I know recall the threads weren't in good shape. I had to chase the threads with a tap to clean them out. Then my mount went on fine. As for the stock mount I have no issues. In fact the ABA seems to idle smoother and vibrate less. Possibly an effect of the longer rods? 


Interesting... Is the "new" passenger mount arrangement as inaccessible as the JH's mounts? Obviously, it continues to be tight quarters but are the mount holes on the ABA still blocked by a cover? Just curious in regard to the ease of mount replacement down the road... I'm obviously ignorant of the A3 arrangement aside from what I've read about online. The logic regarding the smoother idle certainly makes sense. The vibration certainly can't be any worse than the dead passenger mount I've been living with and coddling for some time now... <chuckle>
Thanks again for the food for thought and patience with the questions.


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

*Re: (Moljinar)*

Johnnie, I'm running a full 2.25" TT w/Dynomax system on my MK3 and it's not terribly loud at all. If you keep a cat and run the full system with the mid-resonator, it shouldn't be obnoxiously loud. Also, on the A/C subject, any decent A/C shop should be able to make a set of custom lines for a reasonable amount of money to retain the ABA compressor. Same with the p/s lines and a hydraulic shop. Many hydraulic shops prefer not to know when it's an automotive application, though I don't quite know why.
BTW, if either of you need/want any pics of a fully dressed ABA as installed in an A3 car, LMK, my daily is a '97 Golf.


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## native-texan_in_tn (Apr 15, 2006)

*Re: (YJSAABMAN)*

Thanks, Andrew... Between your build and Oran's here, I've some excellent ideas now if I should happen across what I need in Nashville.


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

*Re: (native-texan_in_tn)*

You were posting as I was posting, above, so I missed your response to Oran. 
The way Oran installed his pass mount there is no cover in the way. The ABA cover is not compatible with the JH head, and the JH lower cover comes up short on the ABA block. I ran into the same issue with the mount hole threads being pretty ugly. They did clean up fine, though. I chose to modify the mount and ABA lower cover to fit since I'm running the full ABA. The A3 arrangement is compeltely different off the back side of the block. 
As for the distributor, the knock sensor distributor doesn't use a vacuum advance, it's purely mechanical. If you can find a setup from a Scirocco 16V, it's ideal, as they still use a separate ignition harness. I split my ignition harness from a MKII 8V CIS-E engine bay harness I purchased off of the Vortex calssifieds. I have a whole box full of CIS-E goodies from something. I need to confirm the p/ns for the origins of it, but's def CIS-E. Fuel Dizzy w/lines and injectors, ECM, ignition module and knock box, full harness, etc. that I won't be using.


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: (native-texan_in_tn)*

The usual TT upgrade system is fine, no larger size needed unless you're thinking of turbo'ing it and even then maybe not. Size for size's sake is not really needed. The ABA downpipe TT makes for this swap is hefty in the first place and that's usually the major choke point of most systems. And yeah, too big will kill your back pressure (which actually helps out with torque.)

Frankly the biggest gotcha with this swap is the distributor setup. Today everyone cringes to think of using a centrifugal/vacuum advanced distributor with a high (10:1) compression engine. Frankly I remember several decades of high compression engines with no knock control but let's just agree that using VWs knock control system is what you want to do. 
You can't use a regular CIS distributor because it has cent/vacuum advance and can't be computer controlled. You'll need a CIS-E or Digifant distributor, neither of which have any timing adjustment in them. The both have 4-hole/shutter wheels which you'll need if you are using either the CIS-E knock sensor box (a separate ECU that hooks up to the ignition unit and the distributor) or the Digifant ECU which controls the fuel injection AND the ignition/knock. The ABA distributor has only 1 shutter wheel opening. It signals cylinder #1 while the OBD1 trigger wheel in the crankcase senses the crank position to allow the ECU to figure out the timing advance to use. This could be used if you are using the ABA's native fuel injection system or a standalone such as MegaSquirt or others.
Now with all that in mind and needing to drive the car immediately I put in the usual CIS distributor, set the timing to basic specs and unhooked the vacuum advance. Running premium with no more than 20* of total advance I'm doing fine with no apparent detonation. Ron will tell you that you can't sense the micro detonation that can destroy things and that's probably true. But it's a stop gap that seems to do fine for now. NOT a long -term solution unless you want to re-curve the distributor (lord the 60's and 70's were fun) Also once you put TTs gear on it's easy to remove and put on another distributor
The AC issue is not an issue for me. Do as you feel like. But I will say the serp belt setup is awesome!!
I have no upper timing belt cover ( I spent too much on the pretty timing gear, why cover it up?) so getting to the mount was no big deal. AS I said earlier it bolted right up. Only needed a spacer to make it lie down properly.


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## native-texan_in_tn (Apr 15, 2006)

*Re: (Moljinar)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Moljinar* »_The usual TT upgrade system is fine, no larger size needed unless you're thinking of turbo'ing it and even then maybe not. Size for size's sake is not really needed. The ABA downpipe TT makes for this swap is hefty in the first place and that's usually the major choke point of most systems. And yeah, too big will kill your back pressure (which actually helps out with torque.)


Tis what I was inclined to believe, especially since no turbo would be planned (an entirely separate can of worms to delve into...). Thanks for the confirmation.

_Quote, originally posted by *Moljinar* »_
Frankly the biggest gotcha with this swap is the distributor setup. Today everyone cringes to think of using a centrifugal/vacuum advanced distributor with a high (10:1) compression engine. Frankly I remember several decades of high compression engines with no knock control but let's just agree that using VWs knock control system is what you want to do. 
You can't use a regular CIS distributor because it has cent/vacuum advance and can't be computer controlled. You'll need a CIS-E or Digifant distributor, neither of which have any timing adjustment in them. The both have 4-hole/shutter wheels which you'll need if you are using either the CIS-E knock sensor box (a separate ECU that hooks up to the ignition unit and the distributor) or the Digifant ECU which controls the fuel injection AND the ignition/knock. The ABA distributor has only 1 shutter wheel opening. It signals cylinder #1 while the OBD1 trigger wheel in the crankcase senses the crank position to allow the ECU to figure out the timing advance to use. This could be used if you are using the ABA's native fuel injection system or a standalone such as MegaSquirt or others.


Ok, I believe the light bulb over my head is beginning to light now, albeit with a wee bit of flickering... Tis making perfect sense, though, between what you and Andrew have mentioned. I agree, too, that using the CIS distributor shouldn't be a long-term install. The odd thing is that it took studying mixture control in Cessnas and its effects before I related well to what the knock sensors in some of our VW's was accomplishing.









_Quote, originally posted by *Moljinar* »_
I have no upper timing belt cover ( I spent too much on the pretty timing gear, why cover it up?) so getting to the mount was no big deal. AS I said earlier it bolted right up. Only needed a spacer to make it lie down properly. 









If I'd been paying closer attention, I'd have noticed this instead of simply admiring the spacer set-up earlier! <chuckle>


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## bbrown (Apr 10, 2009)

*Re: (Moljinar)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Moljinar* »_NY_Fam in the MK1 forum sliced open several dozen 8V intake manifolds and found all of them roughly the same on port size. He has a service where he will take your manifold and open it up and smooth all the transitions as well. Proven good for 6-10 hp on a stock engine!! I'm going to have it done myself someday.


Is NY_Fam the same guy that does these http://www.scientificrabbit.com/node/26
If so I have been seriously contemplating getting one of these bad boys.


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: (bbrown)*

That him!


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## native-texan_in_tn (Apr 15, 2006)

*Re: (Moljinar)*

Never made it to Nashville this weekend but more eager than ever to do so now... Did some additional research on some things and certainly appreciate the advice. Now to see if I can turn my "_want_" into a "_have_" for it certainly looks just as obtainable as just rebuilding the spare JH I have...








Eager to see the final odds-n-ends completed on your install, Oran... I'm also keeping an eye on Andrew's to see how it works out... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## egranlund (Jul 21, 2008)

*Re: (native-texan_in_tn)*

This thread is full of so much win.
*bookmarked*
Thanks


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

*Re: (Moljinar)*

I tell you with all the crap I had in the last 2 weeks on my cabby's alternator belt... I am Seriously considering the serp belt swap.


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## native-texan_in_tn (Apr 15, 2006)

*Re: (briano1234)*


_Quote, originally posted by *briano1234* »_I tell you with all the crap I had in the last 2 weeks on my cabby's alternator belt... I am Seriously considering the serp belt swap.


Oran is dangling that proverbial hypnotic charm before your eyes, Brian, saying, _"Do it, Brian, dooo it... When you awake, you'll feel refreshed and have solved the power steering arrangement for us allllll..."_ Sorry, I didn't hear him mention anything about learning the meaning of life, though... <chuckle>


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: (native-texan_in_tn)*

I'm indeed close to solving the powersteering crisis but I'll not revela that until I'm in the midst of it. 
Meanwhile despite the taller engine I've found the upper strut brace as sold by EuroSport and TT do clear the head with no real issue. I'll have pics soon.


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

*Re: (native-texan_in_tn)*

Well actually I have had the evil Idea of doing it this way.
As much of a Pain in the ass it is to replace a p/s rack... Go Manual......fill the rack with grease, remove the hoses and cap the holes
You never have to worry about it leaking again.... and gained a few ponies








because I was that PO'ed at it. 4 belts in 2 weeks.... 
why? The alternator bearing went out latterally.... and only if it was at the right engine torque....


_Modified by briano1234 at 11:11 AM 10-26-2009_


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

*Re: (briano1234)*


_Quote, originally posted by *briano1234* »_Well actually I have had the evil Idea of doing it this way.
As much of a Pain in the ass it is to replace a p/s rack... Go Manual......fill the rack with grease, remove the hoses and cap the holes
You never have to worry about it leaking again.... and gained a few ponies








because I was that PO'ed at it. 4 belts in 2 weeks.... 
why? The alternator bearing went out latterally.... and only if it was at the right engine torque....

_Modified by briano1234 at 11:11 AM 10-26-2009_








I've got the non-power rack that was original to my car. Cost of postage and someone can have it. Cut the shifter bracket off the power rack and weld it to this one. Done.


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: (YJSAABMAN)*

Small update. 
After a few weeks of driving I can now recommend that anyone doing this swap will want to dimple/flatten the section of frame rail where the Serp belt tensioner sticks out. Although mine isn't hitting normally it does on hard left turns. I figure this is due to the passenger mount sagging differently between different cars.


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

*Re: (Moljinar)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Moljinar* »_Small update. 
After a few weeks of driving I can now recommend that anyone doing this swap will want to dimple/flatten the section of frame rail where the Serp belt tensioner sticks out. Although mine isn't hitting normally it does on hard left turns. I figure this is due to the passenger mount sagging differently between different cars. 

At least yours clears when sitting.







That setup is definitely not going to clear my carbs, anyways. Time to get fabbing!


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: (YJSAABMAN)*

Firstly I helped out my clearance problem by jacking up the engine until I could slide in a piece of rubber tubing with a 8mm bolt in side. That keeps the mount from dropping which moves the engine closer to the frame rail. Being mostly rubber it doesn't increase the vibration any.
Secondly, yeehaaaw!! I have a A3 powersteering pump and bracket in hand and after a bit of experimentation have figured out how to make our powersteering work with the ABA and a serp belt setup. I have pics and when I finish the install I'll post the solution.


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## native-texan_in_tn (Apr 15, 2006)

*Re: (Moljinar)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Moljinar* »_Firstly I helped out my clearance problem by jacking up the engine until I could slide in a piece of rubber tubing with a 8mm bolt in side. That keeps the mount from dropping which moves the engine closer to the frame rail. Being mostly rubber it doesn't increase the vibration any.

I'm guessing by the description that the tubing-covered bolt is acting like one of the filler "blocks" that fill the open spaces in our round side mounts (just can't recall where I saw those advertised but it seems they were made of poly, if I recall correctly...)?

_Quote, originally posted by *Moljinar* »_Secondly, yeehaaaw!! I have a A3 powersteering pump and bracket in hand and after a bit of experimentation have figured out how to make our powersteering work with the ABA and a serp belt setup. I have pics and when I finish the install I'll post the solution. 

Aaaah, let the salivation commence, eh? <chuckle> Eager to see the results, especially since I may only be seeking the ABA block now... What should appear from the pile of parts in the trunk of my parts car but a knock sensor and (possibly) the distributor I'll require, as well... None of the electronics beyond that but shouldn't be hard to find... The former owner had a pile of parts that included a few Digifant items that I'll have to take a closer look at... 
Not sure if I should thank you for the inspiration, Oran, or sign an "evil eye" towards the north/northeast for causing me to reconsider my original OEM-rebuild and creating a wee bit more work... <chuckle>


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: (native-texan_in_tn)*

Here's few pics to whet your whistle.
The A3 ps system uses a heavier set of brackets which hold a cradle which holds the ps pump. The cradle is pivoted at one end and adjusted via a geared adjustment similar to some VW alternators. All in all rather solid. 
The A1/A2 ps pump is physically identical to the A3 pump as far as external dimensions and mounting points go. Only the hose connection is different. So simply remove the A3 pump and put in the A1 pump. 
But the A3 hub is longer, about 1/2". To use the A1 pump we need to remove the hubs and trade them. That's where I'm at right now. I thought I had a 3-jaw puller but I don't. May rent one tonight. 
OR...... you could probably use the entire A1 PS setup and use the A3 hub and get it to work. Personally I prefer the sturdiness of the A3 setup.


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## karl_1052 (Feb 10, 2008)

*Re: (Moljinar)*

Bump for more info.
MY JH(like in your pics) has a vacuum advance distributor. My ABA does not, but I want to do the shutter wheel swap.
What can I do about that? If I plug the lines where will the timing curve come from?
Edit:found my answer
http://www.driversfound.com/sc...ensor/


_Modified by karl_1052 at 2:16 PM 4-6-2010_


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: (karl_1052)*

As you found out the knock sensor CPU curves the spark advance/retard as needed. The ABA also has a trigger wheel should you eventually decide to use standalone engine/spark management.


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## invintive (Jun 4, 2008)

I'm really struggling to find an ABA engine. I live in northern Colorado (Fort Collins). I've found some straight up blocks and some hardcore crate engines that are way out of my price range...


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## whiterhino (Mar 31, 2010)

*Re: (invintive)*

beyond the plai block what is the cost invilved? im a broke student with an 89 cabby and it needs a lil more punch... its about 20hp with just the block right...


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## tolusina (Oct 19, 2004)

*FV-QR*

There's a complete '93 - '95 A3 waiting for you to find in your area for free to $300. It's got all the wires, hoses and controllers you need. It's got a fast wiper motor too, maybe rear disc brakes.
Try transmission shops for one with a blown automatic you can pick up for the diagnostic fees. Try craigslist.
To the general public, old VWs are just old cars.


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## gtikarl (May 7, 2009)

*Re: ABA/JH Swap (Moljinar)*

great wright up. i just picked up my aba and getting ready to get started. i will be putting it into my 85 gti, from what i understand i should not have any problems with the exhaust fit up, and i all ready have a knock box









have a couple questions.
[You'll need a few things to make this work. 
1. 16V head gasket. Only way to make the JH head work on the ABA.]
1. why does it need to be the 16v head gasket (this is only for my education)
2. will all the stock brackets from my 85 work on the aba if i was to stick with the vbelt setup for my water pump and alternator. thats all i will be running, no ac or ps. 
thanks


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: ABA/JH Swap (gtikarl)*

The stock brackets should work fine but be advised that the threaded bolt holes my need re-tapped. Mine were rough if they hadn't been used before.
As to the gasket it's due to making sure the proper holes are uncovered. I didn't check to see exactly where the differences were.


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## gtikarl (May 7, 2009)

*Re: ABA/JH Swap (Moljinar)*

thanks


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## gtikarl (May 7, 2009)

timing belt? im assuming that i need to use a aba timing belt due to the taller 2.0 block, is this correct?


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: (gtikarl)*

Yes


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## gtikarl (May 7, 2009)

what head bolt do i use, the 1.8l or aba 2.0l?


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

Use whatever head bolts match the head.


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## schmlusty (Mar 14, 2007)

So has anyone kept the ac compressor and serpentine setup from the ABA in their cabby? I want to do this in my caddy and am concerned about it fitting. Thanks. 

Russell


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

The ABA compressor doesn't clear the front crossmember according to what I read.


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## tgibson (Sep 28, 2010)

Excuse my noob-ness if this doesn't even make sense...

I saw in another forum a person that did a carbed ABA, and when he ditched the A/C, he just got a much shorter serp belt and used the alternator to tighten it. As in he didn't need a $70 techtonics delete kit. I've been seriously considering this swap (because theres a 97 golf down the street with a bad auto tranny for 500 bucks :thumbup and i'm trying to get all the parts i need in hand.

Thanks


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

In the usual serp belt set up the alternator is NOT adjustable. It's firmly mounted.


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## tgibson (Sep 28, 2010)

Moljinar said:


> In the usual serp belt set up the alternator is NOT adjustable. It's firmly mounted.


I see... Alrighty. More things to save for then. Thanks :thumbup:


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## maketoast (Mar 7, 2009)

Well, I'm seriously considering doing the JH/ABA hybrid thing in my 90 digifant cabby, so it was nice to see this pop up to the top of the forums again.

I could care less about power steering since my rack seals are blown (again) and I'm tired of putting new power racks in. I really don't want to lose A/C though.

Couple other questions:
1. I've heard that it is recommended to get a block from pre 1996? Is this because the internals are better somehow?
2. I'm going purely from memory here, but I thought my previous '95 Cabrio had a passenger side motor mount very similar to the cabriolet setup. I remember my '96 Jetta didn't have this. Anyone know? I'll try to find a pic.
3. What would I have to do to get A/C on a serp. setup with this swap? Has anyone done it? I know there has to be some sort of conversion for the lines to fit the newer compressor.


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## Square1 (Feb 17, 2007)

maketoast said:


> Well, I'm seriously considering doing the JH/ABA hybrid thing in my 90 digifant cabby, so it was nice to see this pop up to the top of the forums again.
> 
> I could care less about power steering since my rack seals are blown (again) and I'm tired of putting new power racks in. I really don't want to lose A/C though.
> 
> ...



1. Forged internals
2. Pretty sure the automatics had the extra mount.
3. G60 Corrado compressor


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

From what I've gathered putting the AC compressor in on the serp belt system in the MK1 chassis is doable IF you put the compressor in AFTER the engine is in. And the MK1 compressor will work in the brackets IF you change the pulley to the serp belt pulley available from here...http://www.jegs.com/i/March+Performance/655/P475/10002/-1

This is what I'm planning for this summer.


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## maketoast (Mar 7, 2009)

My cabrio did have a p/s mount on the ABA, and it was 5 speed. Not sure if the previous owner did something like a swap though.

The compressor pulley is exactly what I was looking for!

So I should now ask a noob question. I've done clutch jobs, but never swapped a whole motor... What is the recommended way to get that bugger out? I've seen it done via hoist, underneath, or by removing the rad support. Assuming I have just a standard jack/jackstands, I'm looking for the easiest way, without having to buy a bunch of equipment.


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

Moljinar said:


> In the usual serp belt set up the alternator is NOT adjustable. It's firmly mounted.


Correct, the ABA alternator is solid mounted, but there is a spring tensioner pulley that applies tension to the belt, if you're using the ABA serp setup. All the TT kit consists of is a VR6 waterpump pulley and the shorter belt. You can order it without the PS belt, this is what I did for the carbed ABA that's in my '82 Cabby.


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

maketoast said:


> Well, I'm seriously considering doing the JH/ABA hybrid thing in my 90 digifant cabby, so it was nice to see this pop up to the top of the forums again.
> 
> I could care less about power steering since my rack seals are blown (again) and I'm tired of putting new power racks in. I really don't want to lose A/C though.
> 
> ...


1. I've heard earlier than early '95, though it's kind of a fuzzy area, for the forged internals and also dual valve springs, though on an ABA/JH the valve springs are less of a concern. They're only really better for a forced induction setup, and not necessary for a normally aspirated engine. 

2. Early Cabrios had that extra mount on the passenger side, but ASFAIK it's specific only to early Cabrios, not auto vs 5 spd, and it was deemed unnecessary, which is why it went away. The ABA block has all the necessary bosses already drilled and tapped for the MK1 passenger mount. Some of them aren't used, though, so it's a good idea to chase the threads before installing the MK1 mount.

My ABA with trimmed timing cover and the MK1 mount installed:










3.Check out Big Caddy's build thread on his ABA Cabby for what he did the clear the A/C compressor on his car. :thumbup:


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## maketoast (Mar 7, 2009)

I know its been a few months since the last post, but...

I just bought a decent and complete ABA for $175 and brought it back to my garage to start prepping it for the swap.

I'm curious about the exhaust setup. I really think the techtonics kit is too expensive. I've heard talk of using a spacer (which would be a lot cheaper) and that BFI offers one, but I'm confused. It looks like their spacer is for an ABA manifold? Has anyone used a spacer? Did you have to have one custom made? can I use an ABA manifold on the digi 8v head?


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## maketoast (Mar 7, 2009)

Guess I found my answer:
Looks like this will work, and I wont have to go to a fab shop to have a spacer made 

http://store.blackforestindustries.com/mk1dudomaspa.html


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## MacGruber (Aug 20, 2010)

> I'm seriously considering doing the JH/ABA hybrid thing in my 90 digifant cabby,


Why replace a 10:1 Digifant 2H 1.8L engine with a now 10:1 2.0L ABA/JH engine?

If both blocks are in exactly the same condition, what is the advantage?

Asking because I am about to install a 2H Cabriolet engine to replace my aged JH engine.


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## tgibson (Sep 28, 2010)

MacGruber said:


> Why replace a 10:1 Digifant 2H 1.8L engine with a now 10:1 2.0L ABA/JH engine?
> 
> If both blocks are in exactly the same condition, what is the advantage?
> 
> Asking because I am about to install a 2H Cabriolet engine to replace my aged JH engine.


Bigger engine, more power, and easier to find in a junkyard than a 1.8. Every yard I go to has at least a few mk3's.


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## MacGruber (Aug 20, 2010)

Right, the '97 Golf engine I was looking at may be ready to go without any work vs. a '93 Cabby. Of course now I will have to look up the numbers to see what the differences are. 2H vs ABA/JH. Valve sizes etc.


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## tgibson (Sep 28, 2010)

MacGruber said:


> Right, the '97 Golf engine I was looking at may be ready to go without any work vs. a '93 Cabby. Of course now I will have to look up the numbers to see what the differences are. 2H vs ABA/JH. Valve sizes etc.


The 2H and JH are the same motor basically, just the early JH's had solid lifters. Just take the 2H head and put it on the Aba block, that's exactly what I did.


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## MacGruber (Aug 20, 2010)

Doing a 2H head/ABA swap into a Digifant VW:
_*maketoast*_ has a 1990 Digifant Cabriolet with a 2H engine, why would he bother with finding a JH head?
Then he has to deal with Digifant on a JH head, but he avoids the distributor issues and no need for a knock box.

The 2H has high compression pistons and I believe 16v rods, etc. Would a 2H head swap give the same compression ration as a JH head swap on the ABA? Any issues with the Digifant ECU managing the hybrid 2H/ABA?

100-110 HP JH head + ABA/3A block - with standard parts, while the 2H is just 94 h.p. stock.

See sandrunner @ http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...tom-end-hybrid-swap&daysprune=-1#post69333956


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## grnhornet2001 (May 12, 2005)

Sorry for bringing back this old thread. i just googled ignition timing aba swap and it lead me to this page. Im trying not to kick myself to hard in the ass for not swapping a AEB into my mk1. Anyways just curious what did you guys set for ball park wise on degrees on the timing? I know theres alot of factors invovled, but just wondering. Tried running the 1.8v settings. Didnt really like it. Im running a knock box system piggy back on the ignition control module. 
Thanks


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## tolusina (Oct 19, 2004)

grnhornet2001 said:


> ..... this old thread......


What knock system are you using? 16V CIS-E maybe?

What distributor?


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## CajunSpike (Mar 11, 2009)

Don't remember reading about it, and it know its better to keep the serp setup, but if you swapped in the 1.8 alternator/ac/ps mounting brackets keeping the 1.8 belt system, 
would everything just bolt in?

Strip the 2.0 block down to just the block
mount up the 1.8 bracketry.
swap in the standard v pully's and ps/ac/alternator.

yes?

no?

I'm thinking aba but i dont want to lose my power steering. 
yes I read you can swap the pumps over.

Also went looking for the kit to convert the digi distributor...are they still making it?


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## tolusina (Oct 19, 2004)

CajunSpike said:


> ......Also went looking for the kit to convert the digi distributor...are they still making it?


Techtonics Tuning offers a bushing adapter......








Find it here.

Cajun, you're just the guy to find out if the freebee solution works as I know you've changed a DigiFant Hall sender.
I'm pretty sure (that means less than 100% positive) the a 2H shutter wheel can be swapped into an ABA distributor housing. If so, that's all the distributor adaptation needed for a 2H/ABA hybrid. You'll have the four aperture DigiFant shutter wheel in a distributor that fits an ABA block. 
Also less than sure, I'm thinking the drive gear on the bottom of the distributor shaft is sized differently between 2H and ABA, another non-issue if an ABA distributor is used.





.


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## CajunSpike (Mar 11, 2009)

By the shutter wheel you do mean the aluminum plate with the cutout(s) inside the distributor? 
I know of it and what it does, but not sure how to remove it from the distributor without damaging it.

I think I still have a doa digi distributor I could try to remove it from(burnt hall sensor), just don't know how to get the alum plate out properly.
I swapped the whole distrib when the hall went out...never actually took the distrib apart. 

That would be so simple if you could just swap the round aluminum plate and use the aba distributor. Solve all kinds of issues and save big bucks. 

Hey...just random thought. Presumably you need to swap the distributor because the gearing is different on the bottom gear of the distrib.
Is it possible to also swap the long rod tied to the timing belt that makes the distributor turn?(won't apply if you use the digi alum plate in the aba distrib).

use the 1.8 distrib turning rod so the stock 1.8 distrib would work....instead of using the aba distrib turning rod?

I happen to have a few hundred bucks laying around and there are jettas in the pullapart. Since I have to do something with my oil burning engine, this would
be good time to consider changes. 

Any comments about keeping the 1.8 bracketry on the 2.0 block?(nevermind re-read up higher..molijinar says old brackets would work). 

Thanks for your time Ron.


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## tolusina (Oct 19, 2004)

CajunSpike said:


> By the shutter wheel you do mean the aluminum plate with the cutout(s) inside the distributor?
> I know of it and what it does, but not sure how to remove it from the distributor without damaging it.
> 
> I think I still have a doa digi distributor I could try to remove it from(burnt hall sensor), just don't know how to get the alum plate out properly.
> I swapped the whole distrib when the hall went out...never actually took the distrib apart. .........


Yup, shutter wheel is that wide slotted inverted bowl thingy that spins around with the rotor.

Excellent if you've still got the junk distributor, you've nothing to lose if this experiment fails.

Best I recall (keep in mind it's been a long time) all that holds the distributor shaft assembled is the press fit of the shutter wheel on the shaft.
CIS distributors used circlips and an indexing lock pin, Digi did not. And here's where memory is uncertain, there may be a circlip underneath the shutter wheel, if there is, the method below won't work and I think you'll know right away.

First, feel how much vertical play the distributor shaft has in the housing. If you would like to attempt precision, measure the play with a dial indicator, or simply measure the bottom gap between the housing and the gear with feeler gauges. I doubt the vertical shaft play is precision critical, pretty approximate by feel should be adequate.

Second, note the indexing of the shutter wheel relative to the slot for the distributor rotor as seen below, if this swap works, you'll need to replicate this indexing as close as eyeball possible when you install the Digi Shutter wheel to the ABA distributor.









I'd think best if you can clamp the distributor housing in a vise by its lower neck section and such that the shaft with gear is free to turn and move downward.
Smack the shaft with a drift and hammer from the top downwards, hopefully it'll drop down and out.

If that worked, repeat on an ABA distributor.

To install, you'll need a hollow drift that can clear the top of the distributor shaft, an open broached deep well socket, 18" or 1/4" pipe, something like that.
Support the bottom of the shaft with a wooden block or board under the gear, tap the shutter wheel down into its indexed position while feeling the vertical play between the housing and the shaft as you go. If you go too far, just tap the shaft back down as in removal.
---
_*IF*_ there's a circlip underneath the shutter wheel, the method above is sure to fail. 
One alternative would be to pry the shutter wheel up and off though I'd expect that to fail as the soft aluminum will irreparably distort from prying.
The other method would be to drive the horizontal roll pin out of the gear, the rest should follow easily.
---
If I had a friendly and helpful junkyard guy as you apparently have, my first step towards a 2H or JH/ABA hybrid would be exactly this, find out if the distributor can be converted on the cheap. Everything else should fall into place.

By the way, a while back, vwpoorboy built a JH/ABA hybrid, changed absolutely nothing on the exhaust and all worked fine. I drove the car, big grins, no rattles. 
The ABA block is only 15mm taller, a little less that 5/8". Slide the front motor mount all the way up, add a few washers between the rear trans mount and the body, both together will roll the engine back a bit, lowering the exhaust manifold. Might, should work. This should also give some hood to throttle body clearance.
TT dual downpipe etc. will be more fun though.
---

Any CIS lambda Cabby owners reading this, forget converting your CIS distributor in this manner, shaft sizes are way different. 
Instead, and assuming Cajun tries and succeeds, convert a 2H distributor exactly as described, wire in a knock box as from 16V CIS-E and an ABA knock sensor, totally forget trying to use CIS' vacuum and centrifugal advances with a 10:1 compression ratio ABA.



.


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## CajunSpike (Mar 11, 2009)

I have in my possession a aluminum dual downpipe from a 95 cabrio. Since that motor was a 2.0, I was hoping I could use that, adapt it to my existing catalytic converter. I already know it fits on the 1.8 head exhaust bolts....since I fitted it. That may be cash saving part 2.
I'll try taking the distributor apart before a junkyard visit.


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## CajunSpike (Mar 11, 2009)

Where on the block is the engine type code? If there is a 2L 4 cyl engine in a jy car(understanding that the aba is the 'best), but its not an aba...
are all vw 4 cylinder engines fair game for engine swap...using just the block?

Theres a 99 golf and 2000 cabrio in the local jy. dunno if they have 4 cyls or not yet. 
But if they did..would those be valid for this swap?


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## tolusina (Oct 19, 2004)

Hot linked from Kamz' site showing a JH code right below #3 spark plug...........








VW engine codes are pretty much always in the same place no matter what model.
---
Re, your A3 aluminum downpipe, it won't fit an A1 chassis without extensive modification. 
Brian modded or had modded a steel A3 downpipe, it's posted around here somewhere, maybe he'll chime.

8V manifolds do bolt to 8V heads, A1 manifold can fit to an ABA head and/or vice versa.
Manifold outlet positions differ between A1s and A2s, A3s, best I recall, A1 outlets are centered, A2s and A3s are offset left. You have actual parts on hand and can confirm if I've got this reversed or not.

The TT downpipe for an A3 manifold into an A1 chassis includes a modified shift linkage relay lever and shaft to clear a relocated downpipe.




.


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

gtikarl said:


> great wright up. i just picked up my aba and getting ready to get started. i will be putting it into my 85 gti, from what i understand i should not have any problems with the exhaust fit up, and i all ready have a knock box <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0"> <p><br>have a couple questions.<p>[You'll need a few things to make this work. <br>1. 16V head gasket. Only way to make the JH head work on the ABA.]<p>1. why does it need to be the 16v head gasket (this is only for my education)<p>2. will all the stock brackets from my 85 work on the aba if i was to stick with the vbelt setup for my water pump and alternator. thats all i will be running, no ac or ps. <p>thanks<p>



Most 8V heads have various oil and coolant passages but not always in the same place. To make sure the proper ones match up the 16V gasket is used because the holes are in the right places to allow the flow.


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## oopseyesharted (Mar 2, 2005)

Another question on this old ass thread.
Will a 1.7 liter 8v head work on an aba?
my car runs awesome (1.7) but i want a little more power.


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## rabbitnothopper (Oct 19, 2009)

oopseyesharted said:


> Another question on this old ass thread.
> Will a 1.7 liter 8v head work on an aba?
> my car runs awesome (1.7) but i want a little more power.


no it does not have the correct oil passages in the front

you need the 1.8L head


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## oopseyesharted (Mar 2, 2005)

well it was a nice thought....lol
I am gonna gonna swap the whole aba into mine...screw it.


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## tolusina (Oct 19, 2004)

oopseyesharted said:


> Another question on this old ass thread.
> Will a 1.7 liter 8v head work on an aba?
> my car runs awesome (1.7) but i want a little more power.


When 1.8s first came out, guys were swapping 1.8 heads onto 1.5, 1.6 and 1.8 blocks for the larger valves.
As rabbitnothopper noted, oil passages are different. There was a way to deal with late head to early block swaps, one could probably figure a way to adapt an early head to a late block.
But why? Seems very counter productive. ABA heads and manifolds are elegantly effective, the entire ABA significantly improved over earlier versions.



.


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