# *** Engine building - stroker 35R content ***



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

Everyone has been asking more and more for pictures and a DIY of bottom end building. I posted about a straight rod swap in this thread. This post will complement and give people an idea of what goes on when assembling a bottom end. I'm not responsible for anything you do that doesn't go right at any time after reading this post.








This will be documenting the assembly of my 2008cc stroker bottom end, though the procedures will be the same for any 1.8t built. 
First we have the 2.0T FSI crank, 92.8mm stroke and forged from the factory. 








I decided to use Wiseco 83mm pistons which I had ceramic coated on the faces and graphite coated on the skirts.








The 2.0T FSI engine from the factory uses a different oil pump gear and chain setup with a different tooth spacing than the 1.8t pump. Therefore, the oil pump gear needs to be changed to the appropriate 1.8t unit. Pressing off an old 1.8t gear may result in a broken gear, as seen here with the original 2.0T FSI unit. 








Some will tell you you always need to deck a block at the machine shop. If the engine hasn't overheated, and shows no odd wear, the deck should be fine to use. Here you can see removal of rust near the water passages. You should at a minimum use a razor to scrape any residue from the deck. If in doubt, have it decked/milled to ensure a good seal with the head gasket (same goes for the head). 








Here, I've set the 2.0T crankshaft into the 1.8t block, which has already been bored and cleaned. This was to check clearance on the oil squirters. 








With a rod and piston in place, the skirts of the pistons were hitting the OEM oil squirters. My solution was to grind some copper washers to allow the squirters to sit "square" in the block, as well as milling some off of both sides of the #4 squirter which is needed to clear the trigger wheel on the crankshaft. 
















Here is the final clearance. I ended up using two copper washers and the machining to achieve the proper clearance. 








Here, I've sorted everything out and it's all ready for assembly. 








Begin by inserting your main bearings into the block, noting orientation. Tangs allow the bearings to only go one way.
















Insert the other bearing shells into the main caps. This is the #3 main cap, ie the middle one. Notice the slots for the tangs on the thrust bearings/washers.








These are the thrust bearings, there are four of them that surround the #3 main journal. These are the lower thrust bearings, the uppers don't have the tang. 








Here are the lower bearings installed on the main cap. 








It can be a little tricky to get them installed as there is nothing to hold them in place. Set the uppers in place, drop the crank in, and then slide the #3 main cap into place with the lower bearings in place. This will all make sense when it's in front of you. This is the orientation of the thrust bearings. 
















#3 main cap installed. If you are unsure of orientation, match up the tang slots. 








The other main caps don't have thrust washers, insert your bearings and install the remaining caps and torque to spec. Now you're ready to insert your rods and pistons. 
I'm only posting this picture because I thought it turned out cool, but properly oil your bores before inserting pistons and rods. 








Rods will require seperation of the rod caps. I do this by placing the rod in a vise (with a towel or rag to protect the rod) and removing the bolts. 








Then use a rubber mallet to "shock" the cap off the rod. Obviously do not use any tools that could damage the rod or its cap. 








Insert your rod bearings with the proper orientation, again notice the tangs. 
















Now you need to attach your pistons to the rods. Insert your pins into the rods and pistons, and install your wrist pin clips. (pics for this can be seen in my link above where I document rod install)








Unfortunately, my camera battery died here, so I don't have pics of ring installation and gapping, but between my thread above and the other posted in the forum about gapping rings, you should be fine. I can't find the other thread because certain advertisers like to keep multiple account names.








I measured piston to deck clearance to calculate my compression ratio, as seen here. If using standard pistons, this isn't necessary, but I wanted to know given the power goals of this motor. Assuming a 0.9mm compressed head gasket thickness for the OEM big bore gasket, this comes for me to be 10.1:1.







I might have to install a w/m kit soon.







(PS, the motor had 5K miles on it already







) 








So your rods and pistons are in place after torquing your rod bolts to appropriate spec. 








Now you'll need to install the oil pump and front main seal. Here you can see orientation of the oil pump chain tensioner (simple spring loaded arm).








Before installing the gear on the oil pump, bolt the pump to the block along with the windage tray. This requires two of the three bolts into the oil pump first, the third hold the windage tray in place. 








Simply rotate the tensioner to allow slack in the chain to fit over the gear, AS you bolt the gear to the pump. Chain installed seen below.








Using appropriate sealant, install the front main seal over the oil pump chain. 








Then the timing cog and bolt are installed into the crankshaft. ALWAYS use a new bolt, and I use new cogs as they are new and can fatigue over time. You don't want to shear a keyway here as it means a full head rebuild, ie timing belt snap/skip.








Addressing the other end, install your rear main seal (no sealant needed). 








Now you're ready for the oil pan. Sealant again (not excessive as it will spill over the inner edges into the crankcase, could come loose, and clog your oil pump pickup later down the road, ie BAD). 








Set your head gasket, and then head in place. I always clean the deck with rubbing alcohol first and try to set the head down cleanly, ie not shifting it once it's set on the block. 








Insert your head bolts, tighten in sequence to correct torque spec, and you're ready to install your thermostat and housing, knock sensors, water hard line, accessory bracket, alternator, AC compressor, and power steering pump. Then the turbo, exhaust manifold, and intake manifold before installing the clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate with the motor off the engine stand (engine stand doesn't allow install of these). Add your transmission and it's ready to go back in the car. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** ([email protected])*

Oh yeah, oil EVERYTHING first.







35R content coming Monday.







Rod and main bearings clearances should be measured to ensure fitment. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 



_Modified by [email protected] at 11:32 PM 10-17-2008_


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## freeborder (Feb 11, 2008)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** ([email protected])*

awesome writ up adam http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif have a beer


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## 50trim S (Jun 3, 2008)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** ([email protected])*

what would something like this cost?
i mean say i bring you my block and you do the same thing to mine
without WM about how much boost/slash power make safely on pump 93 octane
also thanks to this and the rod thread
also why the wisecos what is the difference in them and supertechs?


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## CTS Turbo (Oct 2, 2008)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Oh yeah, oil EVERYTHING first.







35R content coming Monday.







Rod and main bearings clearances should be measured to ensure fitment. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


Nice work Adam D


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## [email protected] (May 18, 2008)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_as well as milling some off of both sides of the #4 squirter which is needed to clear the trigger wheel on the crankshaft.

Nice collection of parts but no grinding or addition of copper washers needed for #4 oil squirter on 06A block.
AZG was a 2.0 06A block and came with oil squirters (same part # as 1.8T squirters)


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## mescaline (Jul 15, 2005)

how much power are you shooting for Adam? And does Unitronic have anything 2.0 specific in their tune collection or is it even needed?


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (mescaline)*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Nice collection of parts but no grinding or addition of copper washers needed for #4 oil squirter on 06A block.
AZG was a 2.0 06A block and came with oil squirters (same part # as 1.8T squirters)


That might be your experience, but on *MY* setup, it was needed. It's silly not to check. Did you even look at the picture I posted of the final clearance? You can tell it would have it if not spaced out. This may not be the case for all pistons, but should be checked. Regardless of pistons, the squirter would hit the trigger wheel on #4. 

_Quote, originally posted by *mescaline* »_how much power are you shooting for Adam? And does Unitronic have anything 2.0 specific in their tune collection or is it even needed?

It's not really needed as the ME7 is load based. Running MAFless makes this easier, though we will have specific files for 2.0's soon. 


_Modified by [email protected] at 7:35 AM 10-18-2008_


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## Yareka (Mar 5, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Nice build adam, should put some powa down.
What bore did you end up with?
arp or stock head bolts?


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## themachasy (Jan 28, 2006)

*Re: (Yareka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Yareka* »_Nice build adam, should put some powa down.
What bore did you end up with?
arp or stock head bolts?

83mm like it says, second question I don't know.


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## IzVW (Jul 24, 2003)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** ([email protected])*

Awesome stuff, can't wait to see what numbers this monster puts down! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## munky18t (Aug 30, 2004)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (IzVW)*

Nice work Adam... makes it alot easier when you have a visual of how it all goes together


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## 50trim S (Jun 3, 2008)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (50trim S)*


_Quote, originally posted by *50trim S* »_
without WM about how much boost/slash power make safely on pump 93 octane
also thanks to this and the rod thread
also why the wisecos what is the difference in them and supertechs?


did you go with the higher compression
also adam, what kind valvetrain components are you using i know the cams but which cams ?


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## tdipower4me (Dec 1, 2005)

awesome information here Adam! GL with it man!


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## 03redgti (Feb 18, 2006)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (50trim S)*

good stuff adam..can't wait to see what it puts down.. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## MY05GLI (Oct 8, 2004)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** ([email protected]onic.ca)*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_I measured piston to deck clearance to calculate my compression ratio, as seen here. If using standard pistons, this isn't necessary, but I wanted to know given the power goals of this motor. Assuming a 0.9mm compressed head gasket thickness for the OEM big bore gasket, this comes for me to be * 10.1:1. *







I might have to install a w/m kit soon.







(PS, the motor had 5K miles on it already










we should start a 10:1 club..... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








I was thinking of changing my custom plate to this


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## themachasy (Jan 28, 2006)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (03redgti)*

good ****, all I know is it works well NA and with a smaller snail








taptaptaptap


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## stevemannn (Apr 17, 2008)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (themachasy)*

book marked... great write up mann


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## hyperformancevw (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** ([email protected])*

nice man! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## infinityman (Sep 3, 2004)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (hyperformancevw)*

Good build thread! I suggest using some sort of thick grease when installing the front and rear main seal, for the crank. 
What did your mains to crank journals, and crank journals to rod bearing clearances come out to?
What did you/your machinist use for piston to wall clearance? And for top and middle ring gap?
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (infinityman)*

nice build man, what 35r are you using


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## themachasy (Jan 28, 2006)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (O2VW1.8T)*

its a surprise, you'll have to see.


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## AudiA4_18T (Mar 15, 2006)

maschasy wasnt it a 362? I got a ride in a S362 car the other day and holy **** did it pull...
Anyway, Adam, not to disreguard the oil squirter thing, but that suprises me, i didnt have to clearance my oil squirter


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## rodney_dubs (Mar 2, 2008)

The best way to seperate caps off rods is to only partially unscrew the bolts, hang the entire rod from 2-3 fingers through the big end, then tap on the two bolts back and forth until the cap pops off. 
This prevents twisting the cap back and forth on the dowel pin and you won't touch the big end bore with anything that could mar it. 
Also, a bit of thick grease works great to hold the thrusts in place for assembly.


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## themachasy (Jan 28, 2006)

*Re: (AudiA4_18T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AudiA4_18T* »_maschasy wasnt it a 362? I got a ride in a S362 car the other day and holy **** did it pull...
Anyway, Adam, not to disreguard the oil squirter thing, but that suprises me, i didnt have to clearance my oil squirter

No, thats my turbo, his is a 35r with a twist


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## infinityman (Sep 3, 2004)

*Re: (rodney_dubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rodney_dubs* »_The best way to seperate caps off rods is to only partially unscrew the bolts, hang the entire rod from 2-3 fingers through the big end, then tap on the two bolts back and forth until the cap pops off. 
This prevents twisting the cap back and forth on the dowel pin and you won't touch the big end bore with anything that could mar it. 
Also, a bit of thick grease works great to hold the thrusts in place for assembly. 

x2, that's also a really easy way to remove the rods/pistons from the crank during disassembly.


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (MY05GLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
That might be your experience, but on *MY* setup, it was needed. It's silly not to check. Did you even look at the picture I posted of the final clearance? You can tell it would have it if not spaced out. This may not be the case for all pistons, but should be checked. Regardless of pistons, the squirter would hit the trigger wheel on #4. 


Mine broke off in cyl 2 or 3 so spacing may be required with all wiseco 83mm pistons, even on the 06A

_Quote, originally posted by *MY05GLI* »_
we should start a 10:1 club..... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








I was thinking of changing my custom plate to this









same setup as adam so i guess that makes 3 of us


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## zerb (Mar 18, 2005)

*Re: (themachasy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *themachasy* »_
No, thats my turbo, his is a 35r with a twist









aka HTA 35r


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (zerb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zerb* »_
aka HTA 35r

I'm curious to see how one of those performs on a 1.8T. I've seen tons of them on evos, but none thus far on 1.8Ts that I can think of? Keep up the good work Adam!


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## DonSupreme (Apr 11, 2006)

_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
I'm curious to see how one of those performs on a 1.8T. I've seen tons of them on evos, but none thus far on 1.8Ts that I can think of? Keep up the good work Adam! 

You mean like this:








On this:


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## AudiA4_18T (Mar 15, 2006)

lol Sean I knew u were gonna pop in here


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## DonSupreme (Apr 11, 2006)

*Re: (AudiA4_18T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AudiA4_18T* »_lol Sean I knew u were gonna pop in here

I have been lurking and communicating via PMs.


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## themachasy (Jan 28, 2006)

*Re: (DonSupreme)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DonSupreme* »_
I have been lurking and communicating via PMs.

Sneaky sneaky!
And no, I don't think its an HTA, at least I wasn't aware it was. we'll have to wait till monday.


_Modified by themachasy at 5:02 PM 10-18-2008_


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

I take it these are custom pistons to reach 10:1 compression?


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

The NA 20v head gasket is thinner than the stock 1.8t so it raises the c/r


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## 50trim S (Jun 3, 2008)

*Re: (cincyTT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cincyTT* »_The NA 20v head gasket is thinner than the stock 1.8t so it raises the c/r

id just like to know how he got to 10:1 pistons, the na gasket, or maybe a combo
the only other stroker pistons are the supertechs i was unaware of the ones he has 
but the supertechs are 8.9
anyone know how much CR the thinner gasket raises it


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

*Re: (50trim S)*

as always....
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3929842


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## MY05GLI (Oct 8, 2004)

*Re: (50trim S)*


_Quote, originally posted by *50trim S* »_
id just like to know how he got to 10:1 pistons, the na gasket, or maybe a combo
the only other stroker pistons are the supertechs i was unaware of the ones he has 
but the supertechs are 8.9
anyone know how much CR the thinner gasket raises it

im guessing its the pistons? Thats how its done on my setup... JE pistons 10:1
flat tops baby


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** ([email protected])*

They are 9.25:1 like mine i believe. You can see some slight recess in them

_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
I decided to use Wiseco 83mm pistons which I had ceramic coated on the faces and graphite coated on the skirts.


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## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** ([email protected])*

looking forward to reading more on this build up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Giannos (May 20, 2008)

*Re: (cincyTT)*

Great work Adam http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
It's in my favorites list!
Similar to what I am doing these days. I am shooting for a 10:1 c/r too, but I am using a 2.0 block.
Have you got her running yet? How is it out of boost with the 10:1?


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## Navydub (Sep 30, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
I'm curious to see how one of those performs on a 1.8T. I've seen tons of them on evos, but none thus far on 1.8Ts that I can think of? Keep up the good work Adam! 

Jeff Hurley is running the HTa35r too. That thing's naaaaaaasty http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (Navydub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Navydub* »_
Jeff Hurley is running the HTa35r too. That thing's naaaaaaasty http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

does he have any numbers from the setup and how is the spool with the HTA .82. I have a regular GT35R .82 and i get full boost at 4900-5000rpm on my 1.8L


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## themachasy (Jan 28, 2006)

*Re: (O2VW1.8T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *O2VW1.8T* »_
does he have any numbers from the setup and how is the spool with the HTA .82. I have a regular GT35R .82 and i get full boost at 4900-5000rpm on my 1.8L

Hes staying pretty quiet about it..


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## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

*Re: (themachasy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *themachasy* »_
No, thats my turbo, his is a 35r with a twist








HTA huh?








i'm lookin a a HTA FP Green










_Modified by the_q_jet at 11:21 AM 10-19-2008_


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## themachasy (Jan 28, 2006)

*Re: (the_q_jet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *the_q_jet* »_HTA huh?








i'm lookin a a HTA FP Green









_Modified by the_q_jet at 11:21 AM 10-19-2008_

No, my turbo is an s362, Jeff @ HStuning is running an HTA35r you can hit him up on his sites forum, Adam's turbo will be debuted tomorrow.


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## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

*Re: (themachasy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *themachasy* »_
No, my turbo is an s362, Jeff @ HStuning is running an HTA35r you can hit him up on his sites forum, Adam's turbo will be debuted tomorrow.
my friend is running a s362...jus ran a [email protected] this week @ 21psi...fun mk2 for sure! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## themachasy (Jan 28, 2006)

*Re: (the_q_jet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *the_q_jet* »_my friend is running a s362...jus ran a [email protected] this week @ 21psi...fun mk2 for sure! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Pretty low boost for what it is, not too shabby!! From what I've seen this turbo really wakes up in the mid 20psi range.


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## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

*Re: (themachasy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *themachasy* »_
Pretty low boost for what it is, not too shabby!! From what I've seen this turbo really wakes up in the mid 20psi range.
i've been tryin to get him to MAN UP and turn it up...


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## 16plus4v (May 4, 2006)

*Re: (the_q_jet)*

HTA 35r should work well on any 4cyl. It will be my choice for the next buildup http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## MY05GLI (Oct 8, 2004)

*Re: (GiannosTT225Q Roadster)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GiannosTT225Q Roadster* »_Great work Adam http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
It's in my favorites list!
Similar to what I am doing these days. I am shooting for a 10:1 c/r too, but I am using a 2.0 block.
Have you got her running yet? How is it out of boost with the 10:1?


personally i feel the motor has some real good snap when you start out of gear, as long as the tune is there to back you! the motor has balls before boost and during!


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## MY05GLI (Oct 8, 2004)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (cincyTT)*

yeah your right, at a quick glance just staring at the back it looked like my flat tops, im guessing, a deck'd head and gasket combo? Im sure adam will post when he is done with his weekend....


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## 50trim S (Jun 3, 2008)

*Re: (16plus4v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16plus4v* »_HTA 35r should work well on any 4cyl. It will be my choice for the next buildup http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

go to forcedperformance.net they have a new hta 35 the normal one has a billet 82 wheel and this new one has a 86 billet wheel
look on there site its called a hta 3586
they say they have made 730 whp with it, still on a t3 hotside


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## 50trim S (Jun 3, 2008)

*Re: (50trim S)*

Adam are you still going to be using the same exhaust manifold









im thinking some sort of custom t25 gt35r with the .73 hks turbine housing
something crazy you and arnold have come up with


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## sexwagon (Jan 12, 2007)

*Re: (50trim S)*

nice buildup.
very interested in this since I am going to use unitronic in my 2.0.
Was gonna use whatever Jeff was going to use for his 2.2 for tuning, but good to see someone else in the unitronic camp to doing increased displacement and making tunes for it. 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (sexwagon)*

Wow, a lot of speculation here. lol First off, thanks for all the kind words guys. I hope the engine pics do what I wanted in the other rod install thread, inspire you guys to buy torque wrenches, engine stands, and a Bentley and get in there and get dirty. It's not for everyone, but if you have the time and desire, it's cheaper than paying a shop to do it, and this way you've got no one to be angry at when something goes wrong but yourself.








As for the turbo, I don't know why everyone thinks it's something crazy, just a Tial V band .63 housing with a plain 35R with a ported T04S cover, nothing that hasn't been seen before. I installed it last week and drove it to FixxFest this weekend. Unfortunately, a huge wreck on the way to the show made us 1.5 hours late, and I spent most of my time trying to tune it remotely with Mike Z. I haven't updated the WOT box and couldn't set it high enough to not bog. Also the fuel rail bolt backed out somehow (after the 600 mile drive to the track) and the rail came out on my best launch, spraying fuel everywhere. I called it a day after that. Anyways, here's some uninstalled pics, installed will be up later today. We'll be tuning it a lot this week so I'll post some logs later as well.


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## DonSupreme (Apr 11, 2006)

Turbine wheel looks so big hahaha.


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## 50trim S (Jun 3, 2008)

*Re: (DonSupreme)*

everything looks nice
2 Q's have you sold your other mani and turbo?
are there any advantages of the tial housing other than weight and ease of install and removal?
what are your goals with this setup numbers and track ?and how high do you plan to rev?
also what kind of combination did you use to get 10:1 compresssion?
for people with turbos like 3076 or larger i think most people would enjoy their car alot more at 10:1


_Modified by 50trim S at 7:31 AM 10-20-2008_


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## Sketchykid (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (50trim S)*

I am also curious how you got the compession ratio.


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: (Sketchykid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_









mk4 2.0L AZG/AZH have oil squirters without hitting the piston skirts....
and you obviously have to have custom pistons for added stroke...
why the h3ll can't the pistons be made to clear the squirter?
.
.
.
Oh, and no thumbs-up here... cause I'm jealous as h3ll
even cussed twice











_Modified by elRey at 11:18 AM 10-20-2008_


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (elRey)*

Old manifold and HKS housing will be for sale shortly. 10.1 compression comes from 7.5 thousandths of an inch piston to deck clearance at TDC, 0.9mm compressed head gasket with 83.5 bore, 83mm pistons with -8cc dish, 42cc combustion chamber, 92.8 stroke. There are calculators for this online. 
You don't need a 3076 to enjoy 10:1, the car is so much peppier out of boost it's not even funny. Even my g/f's 20th with nothing but a chip has a hard time pulling away from low rpms in high gears, even with the uber spool of the K03. I'm talking about like 20 mph and 4th gear, the 2.0 and 10:1 has no problem there. Yes part of it is the displacement, but the CR makes more power everywhere. A 28R would just be a torque monster, even more so than on stock compression. But 2871 and 3071 would benefit just as well from the compression. 
Yesterday, I had no problems with a CBR600 on a closed course at 19 psi, pump gas, stock muffler with oepn WG dump, and a car FULL of tools, tires, luggage, a jack, folding chairs, several boxes with SEM manifolds, and my g/f. Elrey, you're overdue for a ride, I'll be back in ATL on Thurs. night if you want to meet up.


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Elrey, you're overdue for a ride, I'll be back in ATL on Thurs. night if you want to meet up.









clearing calendar now








.
.
.
edit: and taking out life insurance policy










_Modified by elRey at 11:35 AM 10-20-2008_


----------



## KrautFed (Jan 9, 2002)

*Re: (elRey)*

I just wanted to say that I really like your decision in going with Diet Coke for this project. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (KrautFed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KrautFed* »_I just wanted to say that I really like your decision in going with Diet Coke for this project. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (KrautFed)*

I don't drink it, I drink beer. I miss you too Joe. http://****************.com/smile/emlove.gif


----------



## themachasy (Jan 28, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Old manifold and HKS housing will be for sale shortly. 10.1 compression comes from 7.5 thousandths of an inch piston to deck clearance at TDC, 0.9mm compressed head gasket with 83.5 bore, 83mm pistons with -8cc dish, 42cc combustion chamber, 92.8 stroke. There are calculators for this online. 
You don't need a 3076 to enjoy 10:1, the car is so much peppier out of boost it's not even funny. Even my g/f's 20th with nothing but a chip has a hard time pulling away from low rpms in high gears, even with the uber spool of the K03. I'm talking about like 20 mph and 4th gear, the 2.0 and 10:1 has no problem there. Yes part of it is the displacement, but the CR makes more power everywhere. A 28R would just be a torque monster, even more so than on stock compression. But 2871 and 3071 would benefit just as well from the compression. 
Yesterday, I had no problems with a CBR600 on a closed course at 19 psi, pump gas, stock muffler with oepn WG dump, and a car FULL of tools, tires, luggage, a jack, folding chairs, several boxes with SEM manifolds, and my g/f. Elrey, you're overdue for a ride, I'll be back in ATL on Thurs. night if you want to meet up.









Adam and I were cruising around out of boost on the highway, and the car was REALLY strong. I mean REALLY peppy out of boost. pretty sick! I guess 2.0 is on the drawing board if i blow up my 1.8t, i have another 06a block lyin around lol


----------



## 50trim S (Jun 3, 2008)

*Re: (50trim S)*


_Quote, originally posted by *50trim S* »_are there any advantages of the tial housing other than weight and ease of install and removal?
what are your goals with this setup numbers and track ?and how high do you plan to rev?
_Modified by 50trim S at 7:31 AM 10-20-2008_


----------



## mescaline (Jul 15, 2005)

50trim S, honestly...do you even read anything from this forum? You should spend more time reading and less time questioning stuff. You have one of your answers right in this thread. Tial housing will (questionably) flow a bit better but it haven't been tested and stuff.


----------



## 50trim S (Jun 3, 2008)

*Re: (mescaline)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mescaline* »_50trim S, honestly...do you even read anything from this forum? You should spend more time reading and less time questioning stuff. You have one of your answers right in this thread. Tial housing will (questionably) flow a bit better but it haven't been tested and stuff.


yeah i read alot but nothing has been shown of advantages other than ease of instalment and weight 
no where in this thread does it say the tial housing will flow better so you didn't tell me jack that i didn't already know








also Adam you mention tuning it this week 
won't the UNI 830 file work?
just wondering why your having to tune


_Modified by 50trim S at 11:29 AM 10-20-2008_


----------



## mescaline (Jul 15, 2005)

*Re: (50trim S)*


_Quote, originally posted by *50trim S* »_
yeah i read alot but nothing has been shown of advantages other than ease of instalment and weight 
no where in this thread does it say the tial housing will flow better so you didn't tell me jack that i didn't already know








also Adam you mention tuning it this week 
won't the UNI 830 file work?
just wondering why your having to tune

_Modified by 50trim S at 11:29 AM 10-20-2008_

You very much suck at reading then ( http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...age=2 )...or you just have a really bad memory.


----------



## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: (50trim S)*


_Quote, originally posted by *50trim S* »_
yeah i read alot but nothing has been shown of advantages other than ease of instalment and weight 
no where in this thread does it say the tial housing will flow better so you didn't tell me jack that i didn't already know








also Adam you mention tuning it this week 
won't the UNI 830 file work?
just wondering why your having to tune

but but but nothing. take a damn pencil and paper and everytime you see a bit of information write it down and stare at it for however long it takes you to not ask it's matching question.
1.8t forums weren't born the day you signed on.


----------



## 50trim S (Jun 3, 2008)

*Re: (mescaline)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mescaline* »_
You very much suck at reading then ( http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...age=2 )...or you just have a really bad memory.

i don't suck at reading but my memory isn't great but here is what you said

_Quote, originally posted by *mescaline* »_*You have one of your answers right in this thread.* Tial housing will (questionably) flow a bit better but it haven't been tested and stuff.


and like i said in THIS thread nothing was mentioned about it flowing better
so maybe you suck at reading








last time i checked the link you posted that said the tial flows a little better isn't this one so.......










_Modified by 50trim S at 11:53 AM 10-20-2008_


----------



## haenszel (Mar 14, 2004)

*Re: (the_q_jet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *the_q_jet* »_my friend is running a s362...jus ran a [email protected] this week @ 21psi...fun mk2 for sure! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Quote, originally posted by *the_q_jet* »_i've been tryin to get him to MAN UP and turn it up...









Checking in, and hating on you Q!


----------



## MY05GLI (Oct 8, 2004)

*Re: (DonSupreme)*

I agree on most of what you guys are saying, but were getting off topic arguing one's understanding..... Just ignore and lets not pollute a good thread


----------



## haenszel (Mar 14, 2004)

*Re: (50trim S)*


_Quote, originally posted by *50trim S* »_are those answered in this thread i didn't see them if they were and if they weren't then 
in the post above this proved that you were wrong and just can't admit it








if im wrong i can admit it but when i think im right it takes al ot for me to back down

some people don't admit everything either....... they like element of surprise....
like bobq a few years back....... people were screwing around with 300hp 1.8t as the "big guys" and he walked up without saying anything and put down 700hp. That was quite shocking.


----------



## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

*Re: (haenszel)*


_Quote, originally posted by *haenszel* »_
some people don't admit everything either....... they like element of surprise....
like bobq a few years back....... people were screwing around with 300hp 1.8t as the "big guys" and he walked up without saying anything and put down 700hp. That was quite shocking.
















so tru


----------



## 50trim S (Jun 3, 2008)

*Re: (haenszel)*


_Quote, originally posted by *haenszel* »_
some people don't admit everything either....... they like element of surprise....
like bobq a few years back....... people were screwing around with 300hp 1.8t as the "big guys" and he walked up without saying anything and put down 700hp. That was quite shocking.









no Bob let people know what was going on for quite some time
but i do get what your saying but hell why hide stuff or ignore questions


----------



## hypothetical (Oct 20, 2006)

*Re: (50trim S)*

Nice build Adam. I am hoping to start my 95.5mm over Christmas break.


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (hypothetical)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hypothetical* »_Nice build Adam. I am hoping to start my 95.5mm over Christmas break. 

Yeah same here


----------



## hypothetical (Oct 20, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Yeah same here









Sounds like Christmas should bring some great things.


----------



## infinityman (Sep 3, 2004)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (infinityman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *infinityman* »_Good build thread! I suggest using some sort of thick grease when installing the front and rear main seal, for the crank. 
What did your mains to crank journals, and crank journals to rod bearing clearances come out to?
What did you/your machinist use for piston to wall clearance? And for top and middle ring gap?
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (infinityman)*

Honestly, you should measure and verify crank to main and rod to main tolerances, but I didn't. The crank was virtually brand new when I got it, I didn't even polish it. If a crank had had some catastrophe happen to it, then I'd have measured, but even if you find something wrong, there's not much to do as there aren't oversize bearings available. I went with Wiseco's spec of 0.003 for piston to wall clearance, and I went with 0.020 for top ring end gap, and 0.022 for second ring end gap.


----------



## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_there's not much to do as there aren't oversize bearings available. 
really??


----------



## infinityman (Sep 3, 2004)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** ([email protected]a)*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Honestly, you should measure and verify crank to main and rod to main tolerances, but I didn't. The crank was virtually brand new when I got it, I didn't even polish it. If a crank had had some catastrophe happen to it, then I'd have measured, but even if you find something wrong, there's not much to do as there aren't oversize bearings available. I went with Wiseco's spec of 0.003 for piston to wall clearance, and I went with 0.020 for top ring end gap, and 0.022 for second ring end gap. 

Well it's nice to know clearances / cool to record them just to know.. IMO.. That way if something goes wrong on a certain journal, atleast you would have had it recorded and would know for sure whether the bearing caused it, or not.
interesting ring end gaps. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Wider than I would have figured, carry on, we need videos!


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (the_q_jet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *the_q_jet* »_really??









There are the OEM color coded ones, which from what I've seen, only come in OEM assembled motors. Dealership parts monkeys won't even know what you're talking about. Any engine builder/machine shop I've ever asked has come up empty handed, but they could be monkeys too lol. Maybe Bob will chime in.


----------



## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** ([email protected])*

Bob knows the clearance differences on all the mains. I _think_ yellow black and white are the colors available.


----------



## infinityman (Sep 3, 2004)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
There are the OEM color coded ones, which from what I've seen, only come in OEM assembled motors. Dealership parts monkeys won't even know what you're talking about. Any engine builder/machine shop I've ever asked has come up empty handed, but they could be monkeys too lol. Maybe Bob will chime in. 

Bob usually reccomends the "black" ones, because they are the ones which provide the most clearance.
I used to "glyco generic" ones from eurospec, and my clearances already were pretty big, i wanna say both main and rod bearing clearances were around 2 5/10's (thousands) or so.
I have it written down at home, either way it was a bit over spec i think, but thats probably because i got a bit polish happy when i polished the crank on the machine.


----------



## infinityman (Sep 3, 2004)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (ALT3rEg0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ALT3rEg0* »_Bob knows the clearance differences on all the mains. I _think_ yellow black and white are the colors available.

I think the way it works, is you can only get Yellows for the tops, for the bottoms you can get black, red, and I think green?


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (ALT3rEg0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ALT3rEg0* »_Bob knows the clearance differences on all the mains. I _think_ yellow black and white are the colors available.

I had blue, red, and yellow come out of an old AWD block.


----------



## 50trim S (Jun 3, 2008)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** ([email protected])*

why are you having to get tuning done? doesn't the 830 or 8xx whatever file work?
what do you plan to rev to 
any plans to dyno?
how is the spool?


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (50trim S)*


_Quote, originally posted by *50trim S* »_why are you having to get tuning done? doesn't the 830 or 8xx whatever file work?
what do you plan to rev to 
any plans to dyno?
how is the spool?

The engine has 5K miles on it already, I drove it to FL this weekend and back, of course it works. It needs fine tuning for the CR and the displacement, as well as the knock filtering for the Wiseco's. Bottom end has nothing to do with revving, it's still a stock AEB but I'll be building my other AEB shortly, 8K for now. Of course I'm going to dyno. Full boost around 43-4400 right now, hoping to drop 100 or 200 with timing fine tuning. 


_Modified by [email protected] at 5:51 PM 10-20-2008_


----------



## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
The engine has 5K miles on it already, I drove it to FL this weekend and back, of course it works. It needs fine tuning for the CR and the displacement, as well as the knock filtering for the Wiseco's. Bottom end has nothing to do with revving, it's still a stock AEB but I'll be building my other AEB shortly, 8K for now. Of course I'm going to dyno. Full boost around 43-4400 right now, hoping to drop 100 or 200 with timing fine tuning. 

_Modified by [email protected] at 5:51 PM 10-20-2008_
hopefully if everything is clearanced right with the wisecos you wont need filtering...i know my JEs were pretty decent (in the begining)


----------



## 20thAEGti1009 (Jan 28, 2005)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_there's not much to do as there aren't oversize bearings available. 

Actually i just got oversize bearings from BobQ. The Calico Coated ACL race bearings can be had in oversize. Im not sure about the tangless bearings but I know the tanged ones can be had in oversize.


----------



## MY05GLI (Oct 8, 2004)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (20thAEGti1009)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20thAEGti1009* »_
Actually i just got oversize bearings from BobQ. The Calico Coated ACL race bearings can be had in oversize. Im not sure about the tangless bearings but I know the tanged ones can be had in oversize.

arent those rod bearing?


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (MY05GLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20thAEGti1009* »_
Actually i just got oversize bearings from BobQ. The Calico Coated ACL race bearings can be had in oversize. Im not sure about the tangless bearings but I know the tanged ones can be had in oversize.


_Quote, originally posted by *MY05GLI* »_
arent those rod bearing?


Yes they are, and they have an extra thousandth of clearance. We're talking about 10 or 20 thousandths over when I say oversize bearings. That's what it's going to take if the crankshaft has had a serious issue, like spinning a rod bearing.


----------



## 20thAEGti1009 (Jan 28, 2005)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Yes they are, and they have an extra thousandth of clearance. We're talking about 10 or 20 thousandths over when I say oversize bearings. That's what it's going to take if the crankshaft has had a serious issue, like spinning a rod bearing. 

that was exactly my situation. i spun a rod bearing and galled the crank all up and the bearings bob supplied me are 0.25mm oversize.. so almost 10 thousandths over. 0.0098 to be exact..


----------



## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

all great info peeps...


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (20thAEGti1009)*

Nice to hear, I wasn't aware. Once again all hail Bob the guru! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 20thAEGti1009 (Jan 28, 2005)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** ([email protected])*

Honestly up until about a week ago I figured they were not avaliable either. But low and behold Bobq came to the rescue and saved my nice foged crank


----------



## split71 (Aug 26, 2006)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
The engine has 5K miles on it already, I drove it to FL this weekend and back, of course it works. It needs fine tuning for the CR and the displacement, as well as the knock filtering for the Wiseco's. Bottom end has nothing to do with revving, it's still a stock AEB but I'll be building my other AEB shortly, 8K for now. Of course I'm going to dyno. Full boost around 43-4400 right now, hoping to drop 100 or 200 with timing fine tuning. 



Adam did i talk to you at fixx on saturday?! I was in line and (i think) we ran against each other. I chatted about your setup and how it was a 35r now and not the old 3076 that you were trapping 125mph with. I think you also mentioned you were running your 870cc file. I drove the red jetta 50 trimmed. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## EF9Si (Dec 12, 2003)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (split71)*

Awesombe build Adam!! 1.8t is out 2.0t is in!!







Curious why not this shroud? Or this only for the T04z?









I'm guessing high 500 to low 600 whp on your set up...












_Modified by EF9Si at 1:01 AM 10-21-2008_


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (EF9Si)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EF9Si* »_Awesombe build Adam!! 1.8t is out 2.0t is in!!







Curious why not this shroud? Or this only for the T04z?









I'm guessing high 500 to low 600 whp on your set up...








_Modified by EF9Si at 1:01 AM 10-21-2008_

The shroud me and adam have is a much better design.


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (EF9Si)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EF9Si* »_Curious why not this shroud? Or this only for the T04z?

I'm not sure about the T04Z, but like Peter said, this is supposed to be a better style. 

_Quote, originally posted by *split71* »_
Adam did i talk to you at fixx on saturday?! 


Yeah, that was me. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## split71 (Aug 26, 2006)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Yeah, that was me. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Nice to meet ya man http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Wolk's Wagon (Sep 27, 2000)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
There are the OEM color coded ones, which from what I've seen, only come in OEM assembled motors. Dealership parts monkeys won't even know what you're talking about. Any engine builder/machine shop I've ever asked has come up empty handed, but they could be monkeys too lol. Maybe Bob will chime in. 

We used a mix & match color coded affair on my build, it was a pain to get the right ones.


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (split71)*

Same to you. My mom has a beach house in Daytona, I'll be down for Thanksgiving if you want to meet up.


----------



## 20aeman (Jun 8, 2006)

I'm liking the pag vband setup. Just ordered one of those... but with a good old fitty trim.


----------



## DonSupreme (Apr 11, 2006)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (EF9Si)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif







http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (DonSupreme)*

Why is that?


----------



## DonSupreme (Apr 11, 2006)

Its been proven to produce less than desireable results, especially when compared to the tial sport anti-surge housing that you have on your turbo.


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (DonSupreme)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DonSupreme* »_Its been proven to produce less than desireable results, especially when compared to the tial sport anti-surge housing that you have on your turbo.

Got any links about this?


----------



## themachasy (Jan 28, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Any logs Adam?


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (themachasy)*

No. lol We're working on timing some today, currently running 16-18* to redline but with a lot of timing pull. I added some 110 and it didn't go away, so it's the noises of the new motor, going from stock pistons to Wisecos. Logs will come when we get closer to a finalized tune.


----------



## infinityman (Sep 3, 2004)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_No. lol We're working on timing some today, currently running 16-18* to redline but with a lot of timing pull. I added some 110 and it didn't go away, so it's the noises of the new motor, going from stock pistons to Wisecos. Logs will come when we get closer to a finalized tune. 

interesting, what about adding some sort of washer in between the knock sensors to quiet them a tad. As long as you have a good wideband to keep an I on things, you should stay ok I would think. 83mm pistons? I don't remember, and don't want to go back to page 1.


----------



## haenszel (Mar 14, 2004)

*Re: (infinityman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *infinityman* »_
interesting, what about adding some sort of washer in between the knock sensors to quiet them a tad. As long as you have a good wideband to keep an I on things, you should stay ok I would think. 83mm pistons? I don't remember, and don't want to go back to page 1.









sadly the knock sensor spacers don't work so good







even up to 1.5" thick


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (infinityman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *infinityman* »_
interesting, what about adding some sort of washer in between the knock sensors to quiet them a tad. As long as you have a good wideband to keep an I on things, you should stay ok I would think. 83mm pistons? I don't remember, and don't want to go back to page 1.









Wrong way of doing things.


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Wrong way of doing things.










Where are you guys getting these smily's?


----------



## Navydub (Sep 30, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_

Where are you guys getting these smily's?









Firevortex!


----------



## haenszel (Mar 14, 2004)

*Re: (Navydub)*


----------



## MY05GLI (Oct 8, 2004)

*Re: (haenszel)*


_Quote, originally posted by *haenszel* »_
sadly the knock sensor spacers don't work so good







even up to 1.5" thick









I was talking to Mike Z at H2O about that and explained a mojority is hear through the bolt so the knocck sensor dampner does very minimal... I have them and noticed a small difference.


----------



## MY05GLI (Oct 8, 2004)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_No. lol We're working on timing some today, currently running 16-18* to redline but with a lot of timing pull. I added some 110 and it didn't go away, so it's the noises of the new motor, going from stock pistons to Wisecos. Logs will come when we get closer to a finalized tune. 

Oh just add water/ meth already... you have been delaying long enough


----------



## hypothetical (Oct 20, 2006)

*Re: (MY05GLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MY05GLI* »_
Oh just add water/ meth already... you have been delaying long enough









Water Meth is a trick. It's a good trick but still a trick. Me thinks it is better to tune to least amount of knock then add the tricks....


----------



## crazyass713 (Dec 28, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_

Where are you guys getting these smily's?









 

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view








Firevortex ftmfw

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


----------



## mescaline (Jul 15, 2005)

so whats the solution? tune the car using some knockbox or whatever to detect knocking and then disable oem knock sensors? can oem sensors be adjusted to work with this pistons?
We're very lucky we got such strong OEM pistons lol


----------



## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

*Re: (MY05GLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MY05GLI* »_
I was talking to Mike Z at H2O about that and explained a mojority is hear through the bolt so the knocck sensor dampner does very minimal... I have them and noticed a small difference.
hmmm..maybe some thread tape will work to dampen it..some i have the same problem










_Modified by the_q_jet at 3:36 PM 10-23-2008_


----------



## crazyass713 (Dec 28, 2006)

*FV-QR*

tune for peak torque on the dyno...


----------



## MY05GLI (Oct 8, 2004)

*Re: (the_q_jet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *the_q_jet* »_hmmm..maybe some thread tape will work to dampen it..some i have the same problem









_Modified by the_q_jet at 3:36 PM 10-23-2008_

yeah but the tip of the bolt will probably still transmit through to the sensor... I honestly added not so much for timing pull issues, but i was maxing out the sensors from full boost to red ..... honestly its my laziness, Mike Z. has given me an open invitation to come up to Uni, so he can use the knock box and tune it form there on the dyno... I still havent gotten off my a$$ to TyrolSport to have them polish the the piping and install the 044 with the hobbs.... I get email from Mike P. joking about it


----------



## MY05GLI (Oct 8, 2004)

*Re: (hypothetical)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hypothetical* »_
Water Meth is a trick. It's a good trick but still a trick. Me thinks it is better to tune to least amount of knock then add the tricks....

when you say trick, you make it seem like it has no real substance. it has proven itself already with many that use it with no ill result.. Honestly i couldnt run past [email protected] 18-21* without the meth... using the meth i have been safely able to run 23-26 with up to 6* of advance yielding 24-28
* at red.... though 20psi with 15* felt unbelievable.... 
I run more of a 70/30 mix of meth to water, any more and found it has the reverse effect


----------



## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

*Re: (MY05GLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MY05GLI* »_
when you say trick, you make it seem like it has no real substance. it has proven itself already with many that use it with no ill result.. Honestly i couldnt run past [email protected] 18-21* without the meth... using the meth i have been safely able to run 23-26 with up to 6* of advance yielding 24-28
* at red.... though 20psi with 15* felt unbelievable.... 
I run more of a 70/30 mix of meth to water, any more and found it has the reverse effect 

I think he meant "trick" as in a dirty prostitute








No but seriously, I think he meant that water/meth isn't a "fix" for the problems Adam is having. He was saying that the problems with the tune need to be worked out prior to running water/meth.


----------



## hypothetical (Oct 20, 2006)

*Re: (MY05GLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MY05GLI* »_
when you say trick, you make it seem like it has no real substance. it has proven itself already with many that use it with no ill result.. Honestly i couldnt run past [email protected] 18-21* without the meth... using the meth i have been safely able to run 23-26 with up to 6* of advance yielding 24-28
* at red.... though 20psi with 15* felt unbelievable.... 
I run more of a 70/30 mix of meth to water, any more and found it has the reverse effect 

I am not dogging it. I am saying when tuning you should get the most from the tune before you help it with tricks/additions. The sensitivity of the sensor and aftermarket pistons is the issue and I don't believe water/meth will alleviate the echos in the system throwing off the knock sensor. 
On a side note: Most sanctioning bodies consider W/M a power adder so using it is illegal without a weight pentlty. I sometimes forget most of you don't race for points. Hense the trick term, my bad.


_Modified by hypothetical at 2:33 PM 10-23-2008_


----------



## hypothetical (Oct 20, 2006)

*Re: (SoloGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SoloGLI* »_I think he meant "trick" as in a dirty prostitute










Ha ha, not so dirty really.


----------



## bakana (Sep 18, 2005)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** ([email protected])*

I see how it is. Tell me to get a 3076r, I love mine. Then you go bigger







J/K Id probably hate the 35r anyway. I almost hate the 3076r. Its been getting cold out so + more fun. 
POWERBALL, POWERBALL HAHA
(inside joke







)


----------



## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

*Re: (MY05GLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MY05GLI* »_
yeah but the tip of the bolt will probably still transmit through to the sensor... I honestly added not so much for timing pull issues, but i was maxing out the sensors from full boost to red ..... honestly its my laziness, Mike Z. has given me an open invitation to come up to Uni, so he can use the knock box and tune it form there on the dyno...








well here's the kicker...when i built my motor with JEs...i didnt have a problem with "knock"...there was a lil tweaking of the knock sensitivity..but over time after the tune in Feb of this year it got worse...i can audibly hear the piston slap all the time now...so yea...i'm building a fresh motor now over boring with 83mm Wisecos...hoping to alleviate my problem.


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (hypothetical)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hypothetical* »_
I am not dogging it. I am saying when tuning you should get the most from the tune before you help it with tricks/additions. The sensitivity of the sensor and aftermarket pistons is the issue and I don't believe water/meth will alleviate the echos in the system throwing off the knock sensor. 

Exactly, adding 110 octane didn't change anything, so why would w/m? We have our ways, and we'll get the outcome we're after. Unfortunately, it's raining here all day, and with open DP and 20 psi, I spin all through 3rd. Rain = death. lol More testing this weekend.


----------



## MY05GLI (Oct 8, 2004)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Exactly, adding 110 octane didn't change anything, so why would w/m? We have our ways, and we'll get the outcome we're after. Unfortunately, it's raining here all day, and with open DP and 20 psi, I spin all through 3rd. Rain = death. lol More testing this weekend. 

I was NOT relating it to your knock issue, if you read what i wrote i still had that issue regardless using different pistons and also running the knock sensor dampeners. it all probably cuased from the aftermarket pistons and compression?
My point was more of a joke because on the pm's we had you were contemplating finally getting the meth. Also that you havent used any, made amazing numbers, so you could only go up with the w/m injection....
edit: oh and to boot it keeps everything so clean!


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (MY05GLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MY05GLI* »_
I was NOT relating it to your knock issue, if you read what i wrote i still had that issue regardless using different pistons and also running the knock sensor dampeners. it all probably cuased from the aftermarket pistons and compression?
My point was more of a joke because on the pm's we had you were contemplating finally getting the meth. Also that you havent used any, made amazing numbers, so you could only go up with the w/m injection....
edit: oh and to boot it keeps everything so clean!

Yeah, I know all about it. lol The dampeners don't do squat, I've used them in the past and Mike Z doesn't like them so none for me. But yes, it has to do with the OEM knock formulas being based of the resonant frequencies of the stock pistons. We'll have it fixed soon. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Giannos (May 20, 2008)

*Re: ([email protected])*

WMI is a working wonders for Turbo engines in hot climates like where I live. I think its worth using it, if not for the octane increase, for the cooling effect http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (GiannosTT225Q Roadster)*

I didn't say anything at all about w/m not working. I'm talking about OEM knock filtering being based off of OEM pistons. I'm only running 17-20 psi from a 35R, hardly outside of efficiency for this turbo.


----------



## Giannos (May 20, 2008)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_I didn't say anything at all about w/m not working. I'm talking about OEM knock filtering being based off of OEM pistons. I'm only running 17-20 psi from a 35R, hardly outside of efficiency for this turbo. 

I know you dont ditch w/m, and I understand what you are doing







Keep up the good work, many of us that plan on going 20/20 need your file http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

mine hit the dyno yesterday for 1st time.. runs standalone so knock detection is a good ear - lol
33 timing in it no knock.
only 1.3bar boost so far as I ran out of injector duty cycle... doh!
already >450whp
got to go 8 injector now.


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## 50trim S (Jun 3, 2008)

*Re: (badger5)*


_Quote, originally posted by *badger5* »_mine hit the dyno yesterday for 1st time.. runs standalone so knock detection is a good ear - lol
33 timing in it no knock.
only 1.3bar boost so far as I ran out of injector duty cycle... doh!
already >450whp
got to go 8 injector now.


can't you use bigger peak and hold injectors with your standalone?
or do you just want to be cool and have 8 injectors








seems that since you standalone you could run whatever type of injectors you wanted to and the make peak and hold injectors as big as 1600cc's
if you standalone doesn't support that type of injector bosch just released some 1000cc injectors that are not peak and hold if you are interested in them let me know and ill find the link its over on honda tech



_Modified by 50trim S at 11:34 AM 10-24-2008_


----------



## crazyass713 (Dec 28, 2006)

*FV-QR*

T1 Race Development...
Im running those injectors in my Audi, word is they just got in today


----------



## hypothetical (Oct 20, 2006)

*Re: (badger5)*


_Quote, originally posted by *badger5* »_mine hit the dyno yesterday for 1st time.. runs standalone so knock detection is a good ear - lol
33 timing in it no knock.
only 1.3bar boost so far as I ran out of injector duty cycle... doh!
already >450whp
got to go 8 injector now.

I don't believe Adam is dealing with actual knock. Sounds like it is more about the "tune" of the sensor. I am wondering if there is a simple sensor swap? Or does it have to be solved through software?


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (hypothetical)*

Software.


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## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

*Re: (50trim S)*


_Quote, originally posted by *50trim S* »_
can't you use bigger peak and hold injectors with your standalone?
or do you just want to be cool and have 8 injectors








seems that since you standalone you could run whatever type of injectors you wanted to and the make peak and hold injectors as big as 1600cc's
if you standalone doesn't support that type of injector bosch just released some 1000cc injectors that are not peak and hold if you are interested in them let me know and ill find the link its over on honda tech
_Modified by 50trim S at 11:34 AM 10-24-2008_

I need to check if my DTA supports peak and hold injectors (suspect it does'nt) - the control for idle and just off idle on small throttle openings and big step changes in airflow for small throttle movement (in dta's resolution map table) I cant think that lambda control on such a large single injector would be possible. twin setup will give me the control of a smaller injector with the flow of a large one when the second set cut in.
{edit}checked and dta will support low impedance injectors thru a resistor


_Modified by badger5 at 10:50 PM 10-24-2008_


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## Giannos (May 20, 2008)

*Re: (badger5)*

Any updates?


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (GiannosTT225Q Roadster)*

Nothing yet, new fueling system coming.


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## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Keepin the 870s? 830s went in last night with the flash update. Car is butter smooth now. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## infinityman (Sep 3, 2004)

*Re: (ALT3rEg0)*

sav what happened to your screename?


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## Navydub (Sep 30, 2006)

*Re: (infinityman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *infinityman* »_sav what happened to your screename?

banz0red http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## infinityman (Sep 3, 2004)

*Re: (Navydub)*

por que?


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (infinityman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *infinityman* »_por que?


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## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: (infinityman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *infinityman* »_por que?

porque de stu y antonio


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## 50trim S (Jun 3, 2008)

*Re: (ALT3rEg0)*

badger if your standalone will not work with peak and hold injectors they now make 1000cc saturated injectors you might want to look into those if they would be big enough for your needs
T1 tacing is the only placce off the top of my head that sells them 
im not sure the exact website just google t1 racing or something like that


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## rodney_dubs (Mar 2, 2008)

AFAIK the "bosch 1000cc" are modified 52lb. Just something to watch out for. 

I would just get some delphi / rochester 1000cc low z myself.


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (rodney_dubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rodney_dubs* »_
I would just get some delphi / rochester 1000cc low z myself. 

Or bigger.


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## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

*Re: (50trim S)*


_Quote, originally posted by *50trim S* »_badger if your standalone will not work with peak and hold injectors they now make 1000cc saturated injectors you might want to look into those if they would be big enough for your needs
T1 tacing is the only placce off the top of my head that sells them 
im not sure the exact website just google t1 racing or something like that

I think I will be ok.. using my 8 injectors.. I will run my genesis 750cc as mains and 840cc as secondary ones.. on 3 or 4 bar fpr.. not sure yet. desired boost target is currently 2.3-2.5bar from the GT35 unless something chokes the engine before then. Should be fine for fueling then.
thanks for the advise tho
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

*Re: ([email protected])*

I think nearly 1600cc of injector will cover my needs..


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## RASALIBRE (Jul 9, 2004)

any updates?


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (RASALIBRE)*

I haven't made many changes as we're about to begin tuning the larger 1200cc injectors tomorrow. I did a timing log last night just to see, it was nice and cold out.







This is WG boost, ~18 psi on 93 octane. 








I'd say Unitronic > Wisecos.


----------



## 50trim S (Jun 3, 2008)

*Re: ([email protected])*

wow adam i bet thats good for close to 400whp at least on akron horsepowers dyno hell maybe 450 on that dyno








but all kidding aside that does look like you guys at unitronic are putting out some good software http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
you do have the .63 right? how much laggier is it than the 3076 setup you had?4-500 rpms?
from the log id say 18 psi between 4200-4500 that sound about right?
_Modified by 50trim S at 11:16 AM 11-17-2008_


_Modified by 50trim S at 11:18 AM 11-17-2008_


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## DonSupreme (Apr 11, 2006)

Man thats a butt load of timing. I would run that kind of timing on 110 gas *LoL*
I bet it hauls.

Additionally, the sample rate on the logs from your ECU is so fast. 
Quick log of a 1st to 3rd gear pull.
I rolled on from 4500 RPM in 1st.... 3 gears I only got 8 blocks!









_Modified by DonSupreme at 11:42 AM 11-17-2008_

_Modified by DonSupreme at 11:43 AM 11-17-2008_


_Modified by DonSupreme at 11:44 AM 11-17-2008_


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_I'd say Unitronic > Wisecos.









guess ill have to remember that one


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (DonSupreme)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DonSupreme* »_
Additionally, the sample rate on the logs from your ECU is so fast. 
Quick log of a 1st to 3rd gear pull.
I rolled on from 4500 RPM in 1st.... 3 gears I only got 8 blocks!
[/img]



I always log in 4th gear.







Triple digits here we come!!!















1st and 2nd gear are too short for logging.


----------



## DonSupreme (Apr 11, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_

I always log in 4th gear.







Triple digits here we come!!!















1st and 2nd gear are too short for logging. 

You also spin in low gears, so logging would probably be a complete waste.


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*FV-QR*

lol 4th? werent you telling me you spin over 4th at 18psi lol


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## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

logging on the public road with these power levels is insane.. asking for cops to feel your collar.
simply cannot log in anything other than dry, and in 4/5/6 gear.. muchos speed.
strapped to a dyno for me only these days. one close call too many last year. never again


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## KrautFed (Jan 9, 2002)

*Re: (badger5)*

Money grows on trees!


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## 50trim S (Jun 3, 2008)

*Re: (badger5)*


_Quote, originally posted by *badger5* »_logging on the public road with these power levels is insane.. asking for cops to feel your collar.
simply cannot log in anything other than dry, and in 4/5/6 gear.. muchos speed.
strapped to a dyno for me only these days. one close call too many last year. never again

thats why you find a nice straight highway and have a buddy about 1.5 miles ahead of you watching out for the fuzz that and radar detectors








plus i have a police radio that was my grandfathers and if you know the right channels your in good shape










_Modified by 50trim S at 2:32 PM 11-17-2008_


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (50trim S)*


_Quote, originally posted by *50trim S* »_
thats why you find a nice straight highway and have a buddy about 1.5 miles ahead of you watching out for the fuzz that and radar detectors








plus i have a police radio that was my grandfathers and if you know the right channels your in good shape









come try that in atlanta lol we dont run radar here, by the time that thing blips you have had a bad day and either you drop and run or just pull over lol but its not the cops on the side of the road you have to worry about here. Its the million other cars that they have been confiscated and turned into cop cars and you never know it till its too late. Ive been rocketed past by an F250 billowing smoke that had some james bond style ninja lights hidden lol never wouldve known otherwise. Its getting bad here or other people call you in or drive 45 in the #1 lane







, the crotch rocket cops, or now they hide on on-ramps and you dont see them till they hit you from the back at the top shooting down at passed traffic. 
The nice thing is we have a standard undeclared speed limit, sign says 55 but if you are <80 on the hwy you are ok lol


----------



## carbide01 (Jul 12, 2003)

*Re: (50trim S)*


_Quote, originally posted by *50trim S* »_wow adam i bet thats good for close to 400whp at least on akron horsepowers dyno hell maybe 450 on that dyno








but all kidding aside that does look like you guys at unitronic are putting out some good software http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
you do have the .63 right? how much laggier is it than the 3076 setup you had?4-500 rpms?
from the log id say 18 psi between 4200-4500 that sound about right?
_Modified by 50trim S at 11:16 AM 11-17-2008_

_Modified by 50trim S at 11:18 AM 11-17-2008_

are you still shopping for a turbo?


----------



## 50trim S (Jun 3, 2008)

*Re: (carbide01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *carbide01* »_
are you still shopping for a turbo?









lets just say i don't have much faith in my ITS 50 trim lasting very long but i've decided on something me and arnold have figured out something that will fit my needs
id like to see some videos or a dyno from your car 
im being serious http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Midnight_1.8T (Jul 11, 2002)

*Re: (50trim S)*


_Quote, originally posted by *50trim S* »_
lets just say i don't have much faith in my ITS 50 trim lasting very long but i've decided on something me and arnold have figured out something that will fit my needs


what...that you will go to arnold when you are finally ready to actually buy something in 5 more years?
Hell Arnold...might as well put that down as an Acct Receivable....his word is just as good as cash.


_Modified by Midnight_1.8T at 2:43 AM 11-18-2008_


----------



## carbide01 (Jul 12, 2003)

*Re: (50trim S)*


_Quote, originally posted by *50trim S* »_
lets just say i don't have much faith in my ITS 50 trim lasting very long but i've decided on something me and arnold have figured out something that will fit my needs
id like to see some videos or a dyno from your car 
im being serious http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

i posted my videos and charts what, 4 years ago?








where were you? still shopping for a turbo?


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## daetelos (May 1, 2005)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** ([email protected])*

Maybe somebody mentioned this already; but I didn't see it in the thread;
Does the 2.0 stroker need a different ECU program than the 1.8?
For example: 
Stage 3 APR turbo kit; with APR's program - 
If you swap out the 1.8 for a stroker 2.0 and leave everything else exactly the same; would the ecu NEED to be reprogrammed?


----------



## DonSupreme (Apr 11, 2006)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (daetelos)*


_Quote, originally posted by *daetelos* »_Maybe somebody mentioned this already; but I didn't see it in the thread;
Does the 2.0 stroker need a different ECU program than the 1.8?
For example: 
Stage 3 APR turbo kit; with APR's program - 
If you swap out the 1.8 for a stroker 2.0 and leave everything else exactly the same; would the ecu NEED to be reprogrammed?

Ideally yes, but it will probably run fine with a few tweaks,


----------



## carbide01 (Jul 12, 2003)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (DonSupreme)*


----------



## slammed86golf (Aug 2, 2006)

when is this thing going on the dyno? lets see some #'s


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## daetelos (May 1, 2005)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (DonSupreme)*

Cool. Thanks.
I just wanted to know if i could get it reasonably drivable. (and still fun) on the Stage 3 program from APR.
Stand-alone ECU and a bunch of AWD Dyno pulls are still a little out of the budget...
(Still open to any other comments if anyone has them though...







)
Also, anybody know where there;s a good shop with experience with strokers and biggger turbos with an AWD dyno in Miami?


----------



## silvercar (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (theswoleguy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *theswoleguy* »_lol 4th? werent you telling me you spin over 4th at 18psi lol









LOL. i can vouch for that.


----------



## Giannos (May 20, 2008)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (DonSupreme)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DonSupreme* »_
Ideally yes, but it will probably run fine with a few tweaks,

I would get the file written for the stroker over the tweaked 1.8 file. Adam any updates on the file we talked about?


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Thread needs more plastigage of bearings.

Surprised that was not done.


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gdoggmoney* »_Thread needs more plastigage of bearings.

Surprised that was not done.

I've done it on several motors, and always found it a waste of time as you're usually confirming the obvious if you think about it. If the crank hasn't spun a bearing and you're using brand new bearings, then there shouldn't be a problem. Dislcaimer: measure your bearing clearance if you are worried about it.








No updates to speak of, car runs great, rips on everything that tries me, and is way too fast for the street. I'm not going to dyno until I get a better file in the ECU, but that's up in the air as our tuner has fallen upon some health problems.


----------



## vdubguy97 (Sep 13, 2003)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Im not gonna read all seven pages. Sorry
See the 2.0l stroker part. 
Did you do any thing(cams spings) to your AEB head While it was all apart. mybe you already have something but i didnt see anything in the post.


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (vdubguy97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubguy97* »_Im not gonna read all seven pages. Sorry
See the 2.0l stroker part. 
Did you do any thing(cams spings) to your AEB head While it was all apart. mybe you already have something but i didnt see anything in the post.









Not on this head no.


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** ([email protected])*

Taken from another user's build thread using an AEG crank and Supertech pistons in an 06A block. 

_Quote, originally posted by *turbomeyers* »_studs were a great idea since to get the pistons to clear the squirters i removed the crank no less than 6 times . and then i had issues with the clearance from the top of the squirter bolts to the trigger wheel on #4 

Some will tell you this doesn't happen, in this thread too.


----------



## TmoeJ747 (Oct 10, 2007)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** ([email protected])*

awesome thread, glad to see it bumped back up Adam http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## jk35 (Sep 1, 2008)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (TmoeJ747)*

Great thread, thanks for taking the time to publish such a useful writeup.
I have a question after studying the pics on the first page...
your #3 main cap has a smooth / flat bearing shell. My bearing set came with 4 flat shells and 6 grooved... since grooved sheels go in the block, and flat bearing shells go in the caps, I'm figuring that this "odd man out" must go in the #3 cap








Is this correct, or do I need to place an order for another set of bearings?


----------



## gtimitch (Nov 20, 2006)

*Re: *** Engine building - stroker 35R content *** (jk35)*

Awesome work dude.........


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## my2000APB (Jun 3, 2007)

O2VW1.8T said:


> _Quote, originally posted by *EF9Si* »_Awesombe build Adam!! 1.8t is out 2.0t is in!!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


got a pic of the new housing?


----------



## inivid (Aug 25, 2003)

where is adam, anyway? been a while, or maybe he's got a username i'm not aware of. don't tell me he's moved on to a different platform.


----------



## wayneb2010 (Apr 28, 2011)

*hi*

ive been told that my oil pump as gone on my audi TT 1.8 2003 can you if its possible to change it with out removing the engine, and do you know ruffly how much it cost to change it and what i would need to buy to do it 


thanks wayne.


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

> I've done it on several motors, and always found it a waste of time as you're usually confirming the obvious if you think about it. If the crank hasn't spun a bearing and you're using brand new bearings, then there shouldn't be a problem. Dislcaimer: measure your bearing clearance if you are worried about it.
> 
> No updates to speak of, car runs great, rips on everything that tries me, and is way too fast for the street. I'm not going to dyno until I get a better file in the ECU, but that's up in the air as our tuner has fallen upon some health problems.



5 years later! 

I'd at least make sure everything wsa right. Would it not suck to find an underground journal requiring oversized bearings at startup?


----------



## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

Forever later, just fell upon this and decided to bump it, im planning on ditching my 3071r for a 35r stroker kit and built aeb head, eunning uni 830cc right now


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

stay smallport.


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## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

What about AEB without P&P?


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

Why small port vs. Large port on35r?


----------

