# Step by step wheel refinishing @ home



## laz_rs (Dec 3, 2001)

This is a step by step process to refinish your wheels at home.
So I purchased a set of Castlette wheels of off vortex. They were sprayed black on top of the clear. My photos will appear yellowish at times b/c I disabled the flash. 
















At first I began with a combination of wire brushing and sanding. It took me way too long. I considered getting them sandblasted but thanks to onequickg60 he suggested I use paint stripper. So I went down to Autozone and bought a 3.7 liter bottle of Mar-Hyde Tal-Strip for $36.39. Before I began each wheel I sliced off the stems from behind with a razor.
















I Applied the paint stripper with a brush and let it sit for about 15-20 minutes. You can use a plastic scraper, wire brush or even cloths to remove the paint. I used all three. In this pic I used a cloth, when doing so wipe in one direction because the paint and solvent dries rapidly when spread thin.








































I even used the stripper on the inside lip of the rim b/c there was sealant residue. I wanted to be sure this area was smooth so it'll make a nice seal when I put my new rubbers on.
This next step isn't necessary but I did it cause I wanted to make a complete job of it. I used a rust remover and inhibitor on the inside of the rim. I was shocked to see how clean they got.








The one on the left was sprayed with the rust remover. The one on the right was not








Finally I found some random white interior/exterior spray paint and sprayed the whole inside of the wheel, making sure to get the spots that once had rust on them. 








Overall I was shocked how easy the paint stripper worked. If you notice on the label there is a hand wiping the paint off of a car door. The company should rethink this photo. I suggest wearing gloves while using this product cause it burns like heck when it comes in contact with the skin, just to be safe wear safety goggles too. While using the paint brush to apply the gel you may accidentally splatter yourself.
I'm really excited with the progress I made. Thank you onequickg60 you saved me valuable time and money. 
Next step is to fill in any nicks. I'm going to buy some filler and sandpaper. After that it's on to primer. Thanks for looking. I hope to have these ready by spring!!

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by laz_rs at 9:21 PM 2-5-2009_


_Modified by laz_rs at 9:24 PM 2-5-2009_


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## laz_rs (Dec 3, 2001)

*Re: Step by step wheel refinishing @ home (laz_rs)*

Here are two pics of the wheels that onequickg60 is refinishing.
















sooo many edges! you have a lot of patience my friend.


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## onequickg60 (Dec 3, 2000)

*Re: Step by step wheel refinishing @ home (laz_rs)*

thanks for putting mine up.. i might have to finish them sooner now lol.. seeing other people project usually makes me finish mine sooner.. just might have to paint instead of powder coat..


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## laz_rs (Dec 3, 2001)

*Re: Step by step wheel refinishing @ home (laz_rs)*

Back to the auto store, this time I purchased two cans of Self Etching Primer, a small tube of Bondo body filler that has hardener included and assorted grits of sand paper. 
I applied the filler to any deep scratches waited 20 minutes till it hardened and sanded them down to an even surface with about 200 grit sand paper. 










Next I cleaned the wheels thoroughly and sanded all smooth surfaces to penetrate the metal so the primer will have a better hold, like scoring. 
_(link to a site that explains how the primer works)_
http://carpaint.blogspot.com/2....html
I sprayed each wheel making sure to cover all exposed metal. Don't worry about runs later you can wet sand with a high grit paper. I did my best to clean any old cancer the wheel may have had but if you don't get it all the primer won't adhere to the problem area. You can always go back and sand it down again and respray. This primer is sandable half an hour after application but I'd wait a little longer. 

















Next step is to lay down a base coat. I'm going to spray them a light silver metallic. After that it's on to the clear. 



_Modified by laz_rs at 5:58 PM 2-7-2009_


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## laz_rs (Dec 3, 2001)

*Re: Step by step wheel refinishing @ home (laz_rs)*

*Update*
I had a little problem with one of the wheels. No matter how much wire brushing/paint stripping/grinding or sanding there was a spot on the lip that the primer wouldn't adhere to. I even tried naval jelly but nothing worked. It seemed like a deep cancer of some sort. So I used bondo and sanded it down as flush as I could, then I primered it. It drove me nuts. 
Next step is wet sand. I used some high grit paper and a small bucket of water. I recommend getting the surfaces as smooth as possible. Any runs will show when the color is sprayed. This is a very important step. Wet sand, don't cut corners. 
So I sprayed one one wheel (oh, I also stripped and sprayed the center caps) 








This was a test spray but I think I'm gonna go with it. I chose Duplicolor Graphite. It's specially made for wheels. I also picked up the clear by the same brand but didn't use it yet. 
















When spraying I used short burst of paint. I found this to work best. You can control the amount very easily. The primer just sucked it right up. 








I'm gonna spray one more coat and maybe wet sand any dust that got on the surface while drying. Clear coat comes next. 



_Modified by laz_rs at 6:22 PM 2-22-2009_


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## 91JETTAboy (Mar 16, 2008)

wow they came out veryy nice good DIY thread prolly gonna do this to my borbets but go with like a bronze color....i was deciding if i shud get them powder coated or do it myself now im pretty sure i can do it









bummmppppppp


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## laz_rs (Dec 3, 2001)

*Re: (91JETTAboy)*

thanks.
yeah it's not that difficult. When painting anything its all about a clean surface. Let me know if you have any questions.


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## -=WOLFSBURG=- (Oct 25, 2007)

*Re: (laz_rs)*

I'm considering doing the same with some BBS RXII's. What would you suggest for sanding in the smaller/harder to reach spots? It's going to take me forever haha


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## laz_rs (Dec 3, 2001)

*Re: (-=WOLFSBURG=-)*

Yeah! i see what you mean. 
Dremel attachments work good in tight areas. Even if you don't own one you could use a regular drill. I found this on google images. 








If you use the paint stripper and get down to the metal you won't even need to sand those areas too much.


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## -=WOLFSBURG=- (Oct 25, 2007)

*Re: (laz_rs)*

right on. I assume each of those bits just fit into a normal power-drill correct? I have one that has a pretty heavy rpm so that should work fine I assume. 
Do you know much about polishing, because I want to polish the lips of my rims and they appear to have oxidative damage (not curb rash). Would I be able to sand/polish that out?
Thanks for your help! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## G535 (Jul 10, 2007)

*Re: (-=WOLFSBURG=-)*

Very good DIY on refinishing - been there myself!
THERE'S A POLISHING PASTE WITH VERY VERY SMOOTH GRIT IN IT - THATS THE ISH AFTER APPLYING THE PAINT AND BEFORE CLEARCOATING!!!
Everybody painting wheels themselves should use that to get the shine


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## laz_rs (Dec 3, 2001)

*Re: (-=WOLFSBURG=-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-=WOLFSBURG=-* »_right on. I assume each of those bits just fit into a normal power-drill correct? I have one that has a pretty heavy rpm so that should work fine I assume. 
Do you know much about polishing, because I want to polish the lips of my rims and they appear to have oxidative damage (not curb rash). Would I be able to sand/polish that out?


What I would do is use the paint stripper to get the old clear off. Sand the lip with a heavier grit and work your way down to a fine paper. If there's deep cancer on the wheel your paint/primer won't stick cause no matter how much you sand you can't get all of it without removing a substantial amount of metal. So, another way to paint over it is to bondo the problem area. This doesn't get rid of the cancer but it stops it from getting worse. 
After you primer/wet sand/paint/clearcoat you can then wet sand the clear to get rid of any runs and then buff it with some compound. 
If you're talking about not painting the lips and just clear coating them this is a lot more work. I've never done that but you have to work the surface until it's all even and smooth. I would paint, it saves a lot time.


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## -=WOLFSBURG=- (Oct 25, 2007)

*Re: (laz_rs)*

Yea I'll probably end up painting the whole wheel instead of polishing the lip. My BBS's are two piece wheels which is why I was thinking of taking them apart, polishing the lip/painting the wheel. Is it possible to do all of this while the tires are on? Or does the paint drip pose an issue?


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## -=WOLFSBURG=- (Oct 25, 2007)

*Re: (laz_rs)*









here is the damage that I am talking about. does it look salvageable or should i just paint over it?


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## laz_rs (Dec 3, 2001)

*Re: (-=WOLFSBURG=-)*

it doesn't look too bad. That just looks like the clear you can take that off no problem. When you start seeing dark grey to black cancer is when you should be concerned. 
If it's not too much of a problem I would take the rubbers off. This way you can do a complete job and you'll know it's all covered. I sliced the valve stems so I could strip and paint the hole it comes through. You can buy a new set for like $6 or something. I bought a set with a chrome sleeve which are pretty cool. 
But, it's not completely necessary to do this. Someone once suggested jamming index cards all around the rim to mask it. I found the rims are a lot easier to handle while working without wheels. 
Wait! does that center piece come off easily? If so I'd keep the rubbers on.


_Modified by laz_rs at 7:12 PM 2-17-2009_


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## -=WOLFSBURG=- (Oct 25, 2007)

*Re: (laz_rs)*

these rubbers are pretty much bald so i already have some new rubbers lined up. I was planning on having these rubbers taken off, do the job, and then get the new tires. 
i have a couple more questions:
1. how do you put the valve stems in? do they screw in or something??
2. what about this rim? most of it is curb rash.









I dont think I'm going to take out the actual middle part of the rim because each of those bolts would have to be professionally tensioned to ensure that they would have equal tightness/seal because people have done this before and the center piece actually comes off while driving (i.e. not a good time haha) I'll prob take the rubbers off.


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## laz_rs (Dec 3, 2001)

*Re: (-=WOLFSBURG=-)*

Wow that one looks a lot worse than the other. You're gonna have to fill in the rash with bondo. I found this really helpful step by step page on how to use the stuff. Looks like you have no choice, you're gonna have to paint the lips. 
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/realwhda.html 

Valve stems look like this (actually a bit longer):








The best way to get them trough is to use dish soap to help them through. They'll only go till a certain point and then they'll snap into place. If you look up I've taken a picture of the back end of one. (3rd pic)


_Modified by laz_rs at 11:45 PM 2-17-2009_


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## -=WOLFSBURG=- (Oct 25, 2007)

*Re: (laz_rs)*

could you explain the premise behind wet sanding? Why it makes a difference/where it's applicable.


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## laz_rs (Dec 3, 2001)

*Re: (-=WOLFSBURG=-)*

The purpose of wet sanding is to remove any dust particles, rough spots or over spray. It's the most effective way to smooth out a surface. Dry sanding would leave lines, I believe it has something to do with the friction of the paper. The water helps the paper glide across the surface removing any protruding paint first. 
Two stages require wet sanding. After the self etching primer is applied and after the clear coat is applied. After wet sanding the clear you must buff with a special rubbing compound to bring out the shine because wet sanded areas appear dull.


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## laz_rs (Dec 3, 2001)

*Re: Step by step wheel refinishing @ home (laz_rs)*

*Update* (pics to come)
I finally sprayed all of the wheels with paint. I sprayed around three coats but in between each coat I wet sanded any areas with dust. I used 1500 grit paper to do so.
Some wheels didn't need sanding because the paint came out smooth. If you need to sand on the final coat of paint you need to use "Rubbing Compound". This will restore the shine. You don't want to clear coat a sanded surface without this because all you'll be doing is trapping that dull look under the clear. 
(center cap)








_An important thing to remember is to keep your spray nozzles clean. The directions on the can say turn upside down and spray until just air comes out. I like to wipe the nozzle after this and repeat. It's vital because your spray stream needs to be neat so it lays evenly._
















Next I started spraying the clear. I wrote numbers 1-4 on the outside of the rims so I knew which wheel was which. It gets confusing after a while. So far I've sprayed about 3 coats of clear on one wheel and after every coat it's been getting thicker and smoother. So the process has been spray/wet sand/rubbing compound/clean/respray and repeat. I've been using a microfiber towel with compound to buff out the sanding and a tack cloth to pick up any dirt or dust.

Like I said pics will be up soon. 



_Modified by laz_rs at 8:51 PM 2-27-2009_


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## Bthornton10 (Apr 27, 2008)

*Re: Step by step wheel refinishing @ home (laz_rs)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
For a cheap way to redo wheels.


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## -=WOLFSBURG=- (Oct 25, 2007)

*Re: Step by step wheel refinishing @ home (laz_rs)*

that ended up looking awesome








put up some pictures when you put them on your ride http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## teutoned (Jul 29, 2008)

*Re: (laz_rs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *laz_rs* »_So, another way to paint over it is to bondo the problem area. This doesn't get rid of the cancer but it stops it from getting worse.


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## laz_rs (Dec 3, 2001)

*Re: Step by step wheel refinishing @ home (-=WOLFSBURG=-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-=WOLFSBURG=-* »_that ended up looking awesome








put up some pictures when you put them on your ride http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


I def will. a little before after shot. what's going on with your wheels? Did you begin?


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## laz_rs (Dec 3, 2001)

*Re: (teutoned)*


_Quote, originally posted by *teutoned* »_









what's the issue? are you not familiar with bondo?


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## teutoned (Jul 29, 2008)

*Re: (laz_rs)*

i'm confused as to how bondo stops or eliminates corrosion?


_Modified by teutoned at 11:41 AM 3-3-2009_


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## laz_rs (Dec 3, 2001)

*Re: (teutoned)*


_Quote, originally posted by *teutoned* »_i'm confused as to how bondo stops or eliminates corrosion?


Well I never said it eliminates the corrosion. Let's break it down. 
Q:What causes corrosion? 
A:Moisture combined with oxygen on a metal surface.
This is why unpainted metal doesn't fare too well when exposed to the elements. Or painted metals that crack and allow moisture onto the metal start to rust. 
The problem I was was having was I couldn't eliminate all the corrosion on the wheel and the primer wouldn't adhere to this area so when you cover it with bondo it:* A.* seals it from getting moist and further corroding and * B.*allows the primer a clean surface to stick to. The paint seals out moisture inhibiting the rust. 
I hope this explains why bondo was helpful when painting the wheels. Let me know if you need me to further elaborate. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by laz_rs at 3:05 PM 3-3-2009_


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## teutoned (Jul 29, 2008)

*Re: (laz_rs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *laz_rs* »_The problem I was was having was I couldn't eliminate all the corrosion on the wheel and the primer wouldn't adhere to this area so when you cover it with bondo it...

...the corrosion is still there and "rust jacks" bondo and paint away from surface? 
before you "mud" over the corrosion you can't get to hit affected area w/ this... http://www.permatex.com/produc...t.htm
... to increase the probabilty your bondo and paint stay intact longer. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## laz_rs (Dec 3, 2001)

*Re: (teutoned)*


_Quote, originally posted by *teutoned* »_
before you "mud" over the corrosion you can't get to hit affected area w/ this... 

I appreciate the advice but scroll up and you'll see the rust inhibitor I used before bondo-ing. it's about the 10th pic down. 
Look, I know what you're trying to say but, the affected area is really tiny. We're talking pinholes that I couldn't get to without sanding away a significant amount of metal. The key is to get as much of it off as possible and clean the area. I wouldn't recommend anyone using bondo on a huge area of rust. If the area is huge it has to be sanded down and then built back up. The back of the spray bottle reads:
"This formula penetrates into every void of metal surface and dissolves rust/oxidation through chemical action. Then tiny, rust-inhibiting crystals are formed and become integral with the surface molecules of the metal resisting future rust"
It sounds all scientific so I'll take their word. Thanks though, I enjoy the back and forth discussion.


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## teutoned (Jul 29, 2008)

*Re: (laz_rs)*

my bad... i thought you used that on the inside of wheel to clean.
keep up the good work. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## laz_rs (Dec 3, 2001)

*Re: (teutoned)*

No, you're right. I should have emphasized it. I'm gonna go back later and add it in. Thanks


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## -=WOLFSBURG=- (Oct 25, 2007)

*Re: Step by step wheel refinishing @ home (laz_rs)*

my plan is to sell my RS4's that im trying to sell right now and once i do that i will have the rubbers taken off of my BBS's, do all of the work, and then put some new rubbers on. i cannot wait to start!!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VR6'D (Oct 5, 2005)

Saved to favourites. Will make a nice summer project. Props to you on the great write up and results!


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## laz_rs (Dec 3, 2001)

*Re: (VR6'D)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VR6’D* »_Saved to favourites. Will make a nice summer project. Props to you on the great write up and results!

Hey thanks.
I'd love to see yours and anyone else's results. It's a lot of hrs but worth it in the end. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## laz_rs (Dec 3, 2001)

*Re: Step by step wheel refinishing @ home (laz_rs)*

*I need some advice: I've decided to put spacers on as well. The car is lowered (never measured how much). My question is.... is 5mm noticeable enough? or will I be upset that I didn't buy the 8mm spacers? I also am concerned about rubbing. *
I tried searching for a thread on this but search was down. again.


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## Pedmaster (Dec 3, 2000)

*Re: Step by step wheel refinishing @ home (laz_rs)*

If you are running those on your mkii then 8mm will be fine, you could probably even run 10mm depending on your height but def. 8's over 5's imo...


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## laz_rs (Dec 3, 2001)

*Re: Step by step wheel refinishing @ home (Pedmaster)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## laz_rs (Dec 3, 2001)

*Re: Step by step wheel refinishing @ home (laz_rs)*

*Update*
After spraying final coat of clear I broke out the buffer and the 3M rubbing compound. I spread some compound all over the face of the wheel (I've been focusing on the outside surface cause a. it's the first thing you see and b. I can't fit the buffer in the small crevices.)








After I buff it all nice and smooth I pull through the stem valves. I bought a set from auto zone for like $6. I just grab with the plier and pull.
_Before I did this I put a little soap around the area where it snaps into place. I made sure not to put too much because you don't want to get messy. It's hard to clean this area and it may collect dirt._








While each wheel sits I cover it with saran wrap to keep the dust off. When all four are ready I'm gonna order the rubbers. The next pics I post should be the wheels on the car!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Oh yeah I bought 8mm spacers, oh yeah._

_Modified by laz_rs at 8:06 PM 3-12-2009_


_Modified by laz_rs at 8:08 PM 3-12-2009_


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## -=WOLFSBURG=- (Oct 25, 2007)

*Re: Step by step wheel refinishing @ home (laz_rs)*

pumped to see final results


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## Opption (Jul 29, 2008)

*Re: Step by step wheel refinishing @ home (-=WOLFSBURG=-)*

good stuff, those wheels are coming out really well. 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif to you


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## 91JETTAboy (Mar 16, 2008)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4308534
my post is up man enjoy it


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## laz_rs (Dec 3, 2001)

*Re: (91JETTAboy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *91JETTAboy* »_http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4308534
my post is up man enjoy it

good work getting that cancer off. My tears are in similar shape with the black center caps. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## laz_rs (Dec 3, 2001)

*Re: (laz_rs)*

*Update*
Just a couple more coats of clear and they'll be done. I'm about 99% there! aaand I bought a set of 8mm spacers. Will post pics as soon as I have the wheels on.


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## laz_rs (Dec 3, 2001)

*Re: Step by step wheel refinishing @ home (laz_rs)*

I'm sooo angry right now. My car was hit today by someone pulling out of a parking space. Do you think they left a note?


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## -=WOLFSBURG=- (Oct 25, 2007)

*Re: Step by step wheel refinishing @ home (laz_rs)*

so sorry to hear that man, hit and runs are terrible


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