# Meat's MKV Brake DIY



## Meatstick62 (Apr 17, 2007)

***DISCLAIMER: this is just a set of guidelines and a simple walkthrough to help you. I take no responsibility for any damage that you may do to yourself or your vehicle.

*Tools needed:*
-	2 ton Jack and jack stands (preferably 4)
-	17mm deep socket or 17mm socket with extension (for lug nuts)
-	torque wrench (optional-to tighten lugs to spec)
-	13 mm socket
-	21 mm socket 
-	16 mm wrench
-	M14 bolt
-	T30 bit or driver
-	Socket wrench with a breaker-bar
-	Piston reset tool, available to rent from AutoZone or buy it here: http://www.metalnerd.com/cat08.htm
-	Anti-squeal paste
-	Brake and caliper grease
-	7 mm allen key
-	piers
*Before doing anything:*
Loosen cap on brake fluid reservoir before pushing in pistons; check brake fluid level to make sure it doesn't overflow into your engine bay. Use a turkey baster or similar device to suck extra fluid out as necessary. Dispose of fluid in accordance with local pollution control laws. (--thanks to phatvw)

*Rear Brake Pads and Rotors*
****If you are only going to swap pads, skip steps 4-6****

1.	Loosen all lug nuts. Jack up car and remove wheels, always use jack stands, NEVER work on a car supported by only a jack








2.	Remove the two bolts from back of the caliper using a 13 mm socket and 16 mm wrench








3.	Remove the caliper, rest it on a jack or zip-tie it up so that the lines don’t stretch








4.	Remove the two bolts holding on the carrier using an M14 twelve point bit.








5.	Remove the carrier and remove the old pads from it. Set it aside.








6.	Using a T30 bit, remove the screw holding on the rotor and remove the rotor









7.	Sparingly apply some anti-squeal paste to the back of the pads, be sure to not let ANY of it touch the surface of the rotors or pads. Spread it with a plastic shopping bag or other clean-disposable spreader








8.	Place the pads in the slots in the carrier








9.	Replace the rotor and bolt the carrier back on, place some grease on the carrier bolts

10.	Using the piston resetting tool, compress the piston as far as possible








11.	Slide the caliper onto the carrier and bolt the caliper back on








12.	Check all of the bolts to make sure that they are tight. Make sure that your lines are not leaking at the fittings, and make sure that the rotors are clean. You can spray them with Brake Cleaner to make sure, but do not let the brake cleaner touch the brake pads
13.	Repeat for the other side.

*Front Brake Pads and Rotors*
****If you are only going to swap pads, skip steps 4-6****
1.	Remove the metal clip holding the front caliper to the carrier using a large flathead screwdriver or pliers








2.	Remove the black plastic caps covering the bolt that hold the caliper on. Using a 7 mm allen wrench, remove both of the bolts.








3.	Remove and secure the caliper so that the lines aren’t stretched








4.	Using a 21 mm socket, remove the bolts that hold on the carrier








5.	Then remove the carrier and the screw that holds the rotor on, remove the old pad from the carrier








6.	Replace the rotor and the screw that holds it on, then lightly grease the carrier bolts and bolt the carrier back on
7.	Pull the old inboard pad off of the caliper
8.	Sparingly apply some anti-squeal paste to the back of the outboard pad, be sure to not let ANY of it touch the surface of the rotors or pads, place the pad in the carrier
9.	Using a pair of pliers, squeeze the metal tabs on the back of the inboard pad to get them to fit inside the caliper hole, be sure to not contaminate the surface of the pad
10.	Using either your hands, piston resetting tool, or a C-clamp, compress the piston all of the way
11.	Slide the caliper onto the carrier and over the pad already on the caliper
12.	Lightly grease the bolts that you removed from the caliper and bolt the caliper back on using the 7 mm hex key and replace the black caps and the clip on the outside of the caliper using a pair of pliers.
13.	Repeat for the other side. NOTE: if your pads come with wear-sensors, you will have to unplug the cable from the old pad and plug it into the cable on the new pad. The pad with the wear sensor is the inboard pad on the front left side.








*Finishing up*
1.	Place the wheels back on and tighten the lugs hand tight
2.	Lower the car and torque the lugs to 86 ft/lbs
3.	Start the car and pump the brakes until they are firm. Your brakes may feel funny for the first 200 feet so make sure you aren’t in danger of hitting anything or rolling into anything. 
4.	Follow the bedding procedure outlined in the paperwork that came with your brakes. This usually involves making a few hard stops from various speeds.


_Modified by Meatstick62 at 6:26 PM 2-10-2008_


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: Meat's MKV Brake DIY (Meatstick62)*

Nice work! This should be added to the FAQ.

Might I add a step:
- loosen cap on brake fluid reservoir before pushing in pistons; check brake fluid level to make sure it doesn't overflow into your engine bay. Use a turkey baster or similar device to suck extra fluid out as necessary. Dispose of fluid in accordance with local pollution control laws.




_Modified by phatvw at 5:01 PM 2-10-2008_


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## Meatstick62 (Apr 17, 2007)

*Re: Meat's MKV Brake DIY (phatvw)*

Thanks, good call. I changed the fluid before this so I didn't have to worry about it when I did the write up. I'll add that step though.


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