# Car only reading 5psi?



## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

Hi there, so today on the way home, my check engine light came on, I kept on driving the car, trying to see if the car was overheating or if i feel any wierd vibrations, but nothing, the only thing I did noticed was that the boost gauge was only reading 5psi, the car was flashed with apr stage 1 about 2 weeks ago, here are the list of the mods, 
225 quatro 130k miles
Forge dv
modshack vtda
that is all, I asked the local audi mechanic, and he told me maybe a vacumme leak, or dvtar whent bad, or possibly the car whent into limp mode, I dont under stand what he meant by limp mode? so does anyone one, what kind of expense I might be looking forward to? I can feel the turbo kicking in still but it does not seem to pull the car as it did before the check engine light came on, well, many thanks in advance.


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## jacobm (Aug 5, 2011)

Go to your local O'Riley and borrow their OBD 2 scanner so you can read the engine error code. It sounds like you;re in limp mode. That's where the cars ecu limits the boost when it senses something is wrong. Without knowing what code is causing the engine light it could be 1000s of things. Anywhere from $5 to $5k repair.


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

The mechanic is going to run the obd on it tomorrow, I will ask for the error codes, so I can post them on here, so basically it can be something simple or something major?....


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

I forgot to mention, that the abs light had been coming on and off for about 1 week, That wouldnt cause it to go into limp mode right?


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## jacobm (Aug 5, 2011)

I can;t say for sure but it seems like something that could do it. Can't say for sure until we get more info


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Or disconnect the battery for 10 minutes...


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## Corrado SLC NL (May 3, 2005)

Could if it thinks it might damage the engine. Limp mode is just there to prevent damage to the engine


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

Could it be possible that the car did not like tune? Maybe reverting it back to oem before the mechanic starts working on it?


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Disconnect the battery for ten minutes. Codes should go away. See if it happens again. Go from there. It's probably just in limp mode. Your car won't explode.


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

The shop called and said they found a breather hose that was really damaged, they will start with that, breather hose?? CN that be the cause.


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## jacobm (Aug 5, 2011)

breather hose could cause a really big boost leak which could trigger limp mode. Probably error code 91927. Did they give you one?


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

I did not get the code, because, the first thing the mechanic noticed was that hose that popped, it was the hose next to the drivertar, he will replace that first then see if that was the issue, if that was it will the check engine light and limp mode atomatically reset? or is there a procedure that needs to be done? thanks.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

PLAYED TT said:


> Disconnect the battery for ten minutes. Codes should go away. See if it happens again. Go from there. It's probably just in limp mode. Your car won't explode.


 Please stop repeating this information. Disconnecting the battery does not clear codes. It may reset the CEL (not always), but the DTC code is stored until the codes are cleared properly. If the condition has not been corrected, the light will come back on but the codes always remain. ABS problem would not trigger limp mode, and chips/flashed software changes can not " revert back" to OEM software on their own. Find out the code, and have the shop do a pressure test to find any and all leaks and fix them. The PCV system, which I'm assuming is what they meant by vent hose, may or may not trip the CEL, so if the fix only that hose, there could be other leaks they don't even know about.


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## sciroccohal (May 4, 2005)

*didya ever notice....*

How come there are *dozens of these threads* on this forum? 

They all start this way (paraphrasing) * I severely messed with my car,* reflashed it, buggered it up, and now it won't work right....boo hoo. 

Secondarily....almost all of these cars have more than a goodly amount of miles on them. 

THE LAST THING I WANT TO DO WHEN BUYING OR OWNING A HIGH MILEAGE CAR IS *'REMOVE' RELIABILITY.* 

But I guess that's the demographic of this old mk1 TT forum....the cars are now cheap enough for every yahoo to mess with them. 

Okay, I know this is not helpful. *Here's the help....set it back to the way it was, betcha it runs right! 
* 
good luck! 

Like the old, old, old, saying goes " I kept messing with my car until it won't run anymore".


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

20v master said:


> Please stop repeating this information. Disconnecting the battery does not clear codes. It may reset the CEL (not always), but the DTC code is stored until the codes are cleared properly. If the condition has not been corrected, the light will come back on but the codes always remain. ABS problem would not trigger limp mode, and chips/flashed software changes can not " revert back" to OEM software on their own. Find out the code, and have the shop do a pressure test to find any and all leaks and fix them. The PCV system, which I'm assuming is what they meant by vent hose, may or may not trip the CEL, so if the fix only that hose, there could be other leaks they don't even know about.


 Would you rather see if "may reset" or take your car right to a shop and fork over cash? He may have found a hose leak but how many times has someone took their car out pushed it hit limp mode for boosting too much. I was clearly starting at the bottom stating the obvious. Start easy then dig in deeper and spend your money...unless I missed something on how to diagnose an issue :screwy:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

sciroccohal said:


> *Here's the help....set it back to the way it was, betcha it runs right!*
> good luck!
> .


 Let me get this straight, your advice is for all of us to bring our cars back to how it rolled out of the factory, in order to have "reliability" and cars that run "right"? 

From what I can tell in my limited years of dealing with these cars (I'll admit I'm the leader of the yahoos that likes to mess with their cars), some of the factory stuff is the most unreliable things you can have. Cluster f**k vacuum system that is very prone to failure, coolant system with many unnecessary bypasses and redundant choke points, coilpack harness with poor insulation and routed to fry, PCV system that looks like is was engineered to leak with plastic suction jet and suspect hose quality for the location, and the list goes on and on... 

Anything I've fiddled with in this car has made it more reliable and better performing, yet you're telling me that I '*REMOVE' RELIABILITY*. In stock form, this car couldn't be driven hard without the coolant temp seeing triple digits, elevated oil temperatures, and air charge temp that could blow dry Donald Trump's hair in seconds. Playing with cars is not for everyone, but if you have the slightest idea of what you're doing, your statements couldn't be more far from the truth. :wave:


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

I'm not a big fan of disconnecting the battery, but if it's your only option, you could give it a shot. 

Personally, having owned my car for almost four years now, I would suspect a vacuum or boost leak immediately. I've had three so far, and all have been easy, inexpensive fixes, though not necessarily the same code. 

I would also go to either AutoZone or Advance AutoParts for a free OBDII scan if I were you. They print the codes for you and then you can bring them to us! If you want to drop some cash and help yourself at the same time, get a VAG-COM cable and a cheap, reliable laptop. That's what I've been using for the past 18 months, and it's a good headache reliever. Hope this helps!:beer: (Day drinking)


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

Thanks for the info on autozone, Probably a great investment just to purchase one.


lite1979 said:


> I'm not a big fan of disconnecting the battery, but if it's your only option, you could give it a shot.
> 
> Personally, having owned my car for almost four years now, I would suspect a vacuum or boost leak immediately. I've had three so far, and all have been easy, inexpensive fixes, though not necessarily the same code.
> 
> I would also go to either AutoZone or Advance AutoParts for a free OBDII scan if I were you. They print the codes for you and then you can bring them to us! If you want to drop some cash and help yourself at the same time, get a VAG-COM cable and a cheap, reliable laptop. That's what I've been using for the past 18 months, and it's a good headache reliever. Hope this helps!:beer: (Day drinking)


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

:thumbup:


Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Let me get this straight, your advice is for all of us to bring our cars back to how it rolled out of the factory, in order to have "reliability" and cars that run "right"?
> 
> From what I can tell in my limited years of dealing with these cars (I'll admit I'm the leader of the yahoos that likes to mess with their cars), some of the factory stuff is the most unreliable things you can have. Cluster f**k vacuum system that is very prone to failure, coolant system with many unnecessary bypasses and redundant choke points, coilpack harness with poor insulation and routed to fry, PCV system that looks like is was engineered to leak with plastic suction jet and suspect hose quality for the location, and the list goes on and on...
> 
> Anything I've fiddled with in this car has made it more reliable and better performing, yet you're telling me that I '*REMOVE' RELIABILITY*. In stock form, this car couldn't be driven hard without the coolant temp seeing triple digits, elevated oil temperatures, and air charge temp that could blow dry Donald Trump's hair in seconds. Playing with cars is not for everyone, but if you have the slightest idea of what you're doing, your statements couldn't be more far from the truth. :wave:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

PLAYED TT said:


> Would you rather see if "may reset" or take your car right to a shop and fork over cash? He may have found a hose leak but how many times has someone took their car out pushed it hit limp mode for boosting too much. I was clearly starting at the bottom stating the obvious. Start easy then dig in deeper and spend your money...unless I missed something on how to diagnose an issue :screwy:


 You did miss something. Disconnecting the battery is an amateur attempt at "rebooting." The correct answer was to pressure test for leaks, which any competent shop would do, especially on a turbo engine. His car is/was already there, so it's not like he'd be doing it himself. However, if he wanted to, there are several DIY's on this site that show how to do it cheaply using hardware store parts and a bicycle pump if you don't have access to an air compressor.


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## Dowski12 (Nov 2, 2011)

sciroccohal said:


> How come there are *dozens of these threads* on this forum?
> 
> They all start this way (paraphrasing) * I severely messed with my car,* reflashed it, buggered it up, and now it won't work right....boo hoo.
> 
> ...


 I suppose he should just sell his TT and buy a C5 corvett? You sir sound like a broken record. I don't know how many times i've read your "old saying" quote on this forum. You do realize there are quite a few TT's on this forum that would put that C5 of yours to shame, and do it reliably. Everyone has their own plans for their TT's and just because it doesn't fall in line with your "keep it stock" point of view, doesn't mean that everyone's setup is going to turn into the unreliable machines you claim them to be, especially with only the addition of a chip tune. Sure, some people cut corners and end up destroying their cars, but that's not specific to the TT world. I'm pretty positive there are some C5 owners out there that have cut corners and ended up destroying their cars.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

20v master said:


> You did miss something. Disconnecting the battery is an amateur attempt at "rebooting." The correct answer was to pressure test for leaks, which any competent shop would do, especially on a turbo engine. His car is/was already there, so it's not like he'd be doing it himself. However, if he wanted to, there are several DIY's on this site that show how to do it cheaply using hardware store parts and a bicycle pump if you don't have access to an air compressor.


 I understand that also scan mining it would have been a good starting point. I believe that the OP has or would have done neither. But it no longer matters as he already took it to a shop.


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

Here is a pic of the hose that was busted,


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Did replacing that hose fix the issue?


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

The hose is not in stock, it will arrive on wed, crossing fingers, seems like a very inexpensive fix.


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

ezlnh8u said:


> The hose is not in stock, it will arrive on wed, crossing fingers, seems like a very inexpensive fix.


 Let me know if that doesn't come through as I still have my stock one left I could send you after replacing it all with 034 Motorsports PCV solution. 

Cheers, 
Tony


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

I appreciate that tony. 


Boulderhead said:


> Let me know if that doesn't come through as I still have my stock one left I could send you after replacing it all with 034 Motorsports PCV solution.
> 
> Cheers,
> Tony


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## jacobm (Aug 5, 2011)

That exact one was split on my TT when I bought it. The whole PCV system is a load of junk. I ended up deleting the majority of it.


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## jacobm (Aug 5, 2011)

And the would cause a pretty big leak so im willing to pet thats what your problem is. If not its never a bad thing to replace a leaky hose especially one that when ripped sprays oily mist in the engine bay


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

Yup, that was the issue, the car is purring now, thank you all for the help, got the revised version of the valve cover breather hose thank you all for the help!


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

You're lucky that was such an easy fix. Things like that usually hide in hoses under everything else


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

So after 1 week of the car driving fine, my boost gauge only read 5 psi again, no engine code at all, but I noticed when I felt the car not pull as hard as it used to, I checked all the top hoses but everything seems in tact, frustrating.


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## jacobm (Aug 5, 2011)

Limp mode again. Probably more leaks. Honestly Id look into running a catch can to delete/replace as much of that pcv system as possible


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

The first time, I got the check engine light on, replaced the valve cover breather hose, and worked for a good week, but now, I didnt get any engine codes, I dont understand why yes the first time and this time nothing?


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## Dowski12 (Nov 2, 2011)

Because these cars like to keep you on your toes


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

:thumbup:


Dowski12 said:


> Because these cars like to keep you on your toes


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

I have seen a threat on the catch can method, but if like to keep my car with nearly all oem parts, I'm guessing a leak from a hose that's impossible to get to...uhhh


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

ezlnh8u said:


> The first time, I got the check engine light on, replaced the valve cover breather hose, and worked for a good week, but now, I didnt get any engine codes, I dont understand why yes the first time and this time nothing?


 You need to pressure test the entire system. A log of requested vs actual boost and MAF values would be a good thing as well.


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

pressure test being done tomorrow, but does anyone one know why it did not throw a code?


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

20v master said:


> Please stop repeating this information. Disconnecting the battery does not clear codes. It may reset the CEL (not always), but the DTC code is stored until the codes are cleared properly. If the condition has not been corrected, the light will come back on but the codes always remain. ABS problem would not trigger limp mode, and chips/flashed software changes can not " revert back" to OEM software on their own. Find out the code, and have the shop do a pressure test to find any and all leaks and fix them. The PCV system, which I'm assuming is what they meant by vent hose, may or may not trip the CEL, so if the fix only that hose, there could be other leaks they don't even know about.


 this thread is making me :banghead: first of all i'm glad someone replied 9 posts later that the abs light has nothing to do with the engine... a couple more comments to come


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

lite1979 said:


> I'm not a big fan of disconnecting the battery, but if it's your only option, you could give it a shot.
> 
> Personally, having owned my car for almost four years now, I would suspect a vacuum or boost leak immediately. I've had three so far, and all have been easy, inexpensive fixes, though not necessarily the same code.
> 
> I would also go to either AutoZone or Advance AutoParts for a free OBDII scan if I were you. They print the codes for you and then you can bring them to us! If you want to drop some cash and help yourself at the same time, get a VAG-COM cable and a cheap, reliable laptop. That's what I've been using for the past 18 months, and it's a good headache reliever. Hope this helps!:beer: (Day drinking)


 i would not rely on autozone to scan your car...their obdII scanners are very "generic" and often don't diagnose the problem properly


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Let me get this straight, your advice is for all of us to bring our cars back to how it rolled out of the factory, in order to have "reliability" and cars that run "right"?
> 
> From what I can tell in my limited years of dealing with these cars (I'll admit I'm the leader of the yahoos that likes to mess with their cars), some of the factory stuff is the most unreliable things you can have. Cluster f**k vacuum system that is very prone to failure, coolant system with many unnecessary bypasses and redundant choke points, coilpack harness with poor insulation and routed to fry, PCV system that looks like is was engineered to leak with plastic suction jet and suspect hose quality for the location, and the list goes on and on...
> 
> Anything I've fiddled with in this car has made it more reliable and better performing, yet you're telling me that I '*REMOVE' RELIABILITY*. In stock form, this car couldn't be driven hard without the coolant temp seeing triple digits, elevated oil temperatures, and air charge temp that could blow dry Donald Trump's hair in seconds. Playing with cars is not for everyone, but if you have the slightest idea of what you're doing, your statements couldn't be more far from the truth. :wave:


 must agree with marcus here... by now i have simplified all the useless crap under the engine compartment to the point where whenever i have a problem arise, i almost always know what caused it w/o even scanning the car


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

Dowski12 said:


> You do realize there are quite a few TT's on this forum that would put that C5 of yours to shame, and do it reliably.


 i volunteer to test this theory :laugh:


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

ezlnh8u said:


> pressure test being done tomorrow, but does anyone one know why it did not throw a code?


 I would try a smoke test if a pressure test yields no results... Sometimes the issue is brief enough to trigger safe mode, but no CEL. I had an issue with a p1297 code(pressure drop) and p1136(front bank too lean) with my tt after tuning and i could not trace the issue. Did a pressure test/smoke test and replaced just about every vaccum and pcv hose there was. It wasn't until i ripped everything out and built my motor that the problem went away.


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

So the shop tried a smoke test, and found one other hose that they think could of caused it, replaced it, and the problem still continues, so the shop is now stumped, any recomendations?!!!!


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

ezlnh8u said:


> So the shop tried a smoke test, and found one other hose that they think could of caused it, replaced it, and the problem still continues, so the shop is now stumped, any recomendations?!!!!


 did they tell you what codes you're getting?


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

is it possible I am overboosting? and caused it to go into limp mode, should I take the car back to were they programmed the apr stage 1 and have them put it back to oem? Sucks I am sure I wont get my money back, and can not garauntee thats the fix.


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

I am actually going to the shop after work, I will ask them for the codes.if they even got any.


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

ezlnh8u said:


> I am actually going to the shop after work, I will ask them for the codes.if they even got any.


 you could have a bad n75 which could cause limp mode, did they pressure test your dv to make sure it's not bad?


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

no engine codes so far, no cel, I will let him know to pressure test the dv, its a forge one, not oem.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

luchos said:


> you could have a bad n75 which could cause limp mode, did they pressure test your dv to make sure it's not bad?


 This is what I originally thought which is why I wanted him to reset it initially to see if it was a hardware or mechanical cause. But then after the hose leak I thought it would be fixed.


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

So the mechanic is still stumped, he said the car was shaking when he turned it on? which is strange because it did not do that to me when i drive it in, Im guessing I should start with the dv first, then move on from there?


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

ezlnh8u said:


> So the mechanic is still stumped, he said the car was shaking when he turned it on? which is strange because it did not do that to me when i drive it in, Im guessing I should start with the dv first, then move on from there?


 Sounds like a vacuum leak, it could definitely be from a failed dv, especially if there are no external leaks present


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

what would be the best way to check if the dv is bad? besides purchasing a new one.


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

ezlnh8u said:


> what would be the best way to check if the dv is bad? besides purchasing a new one.


 The shop should be able to hook up a vacuum pump to the vacuum port on dv and see if it holds


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

The mechanic did another smoke test and noticed the main intake valve hose has a really big leak, so it's on order, do you think that could of caused it?


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

ezlnh8u said:


> The mechanic did another smoke test and noticed the main intake valve hose has a really big leak, so it's on order, do you think that could of caused it?


 By intake hose do you mean the throttle body hose?


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## SteveCJr (Aug 3, 2008)

I would assume by "main" he means the turbo inlet pipe.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

SteveCJr said:


> I would assume by "main" he means the turbo inlet pipe.


 If that's the case sucking in unmetered air would be a big issue causing limp mode.


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

yes, I think the shop stated the main turbo hose, so I am guessing you are right.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

You need to get familiar with pressure testing. Finding one leak is usually the tip of the iceberg. Time to dive in dude.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

ezlnh8u said:


> yes, I think the shop stated the main turbo hose, so I am guessing you are right.


 Any leaks after the MAF will cause issues. The bigger the leak, the worse it is. A 240SX blew off an IC coupler at the track yesterday. This causes a massive boost leak while the MAF is still seeing the volume of air the turbo is pulling. The driver stayed in the throttle, causing a 6-8ft flame to shoot out the exhaust for 3-5 seconds (burning off all the excess fuel that wasn't needed since the boost charge wasn't making it into the cylinders). This ended up melting the paint off the bumper and slightly melting the taillight on that side of the car. :screwy:


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

I would really love to, but having 2 kids a business to run, and not having the proper tools, limits what I can&cant do to the car, So i usually get it done at the shop, I would really love to get to know the tt's ins and outs, I remember back in my muscle car days, that is exactly what I used to do.


warranty225cpe said:


> You need to get familiar with pressure testing. Finding one leak is usually the tip of the iceberg. Time to dive in dude.


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

I hope this fixes your problem, if not find a new shop. Any place that knows what they're doing should have found and fixed the issue by now.


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

Thanks luchos, I was assured it would be ready tomorrow.


luchos said:


> I hope this fixes your problem, if not find a new shop. Any place that knows what they're doing should have found and fixed the issue by now.


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

So I whent to the shop to actually see the hose, it's the intake hose were the maf is connected to, it's right before it conects to the turbo, it had about a Nicle size tear, the hose is still on order, coming from Ohio, so just out of curiosity, that size of a test will cause the car to go into limp?


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## jacobm (Aug 5, 2011)

Oh yeah I imagine thats letting a ton of unmeterd air in thats causing the ECU to throw it into limp. What price did the shop quote you for a new one? Seems like a good time to replace it with a silicone one as Im sure the oem price is absurd.


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

jacobm said:


> Oh yeah I imagine thats letting a ton of unmeterd air in thats causing the ECU to throw it into limp. What price did the shop quote you for a new one? Seems like a good time to replace it with a silicone one as Im sure the oem price is absurd.


Wish you would've posted about it before they ordered one, i got my old one laying around the garage.


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

The oem hose is about 200.00 I checked it and its pretty accurate.


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

ezlnh8u said:


> The oem hose is about 200.00 I checked it and its pretty accurate.


you could've ordered a quality samco or forge silicone one(depending on engine code) for that much


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

I know, that now, so my next replacements will be some nice 3party ones, that can outlast oem hoses, I hope this one lasts me quite some time, crossing fingers.


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## jacobm (Aug 5, 2011)

$200 ouch that stings. Luckily its not like a silicone TIP is a major upgrade. Unless youre pushing a bunch of boost or have a ton of other mods you probably wouldnt even feel that much of a difference over a new oem one. I imagine the new oem will serve you fine.


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

by a while,I hope that means years.....


jacobm said:


> $200 ouch that stings. Luckily its not like a silicone TIP is a major upgrade. Unless youre pushing a bunch of boost or have a ton of other mods you probably wouldnt even feel that much of a difference over a new oem one. I imagine the new oem will serve you fine.


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

OMG!!! the part was the wrong one, its called the air breather hose, the one that goes from the intake to the turbo, anyone know
This part number? And why it costs 400.00?


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

ezlnh8u said:


> OMG!!! the part was the wrong one, its called the air breather hose, the one that goes from the intake to the turbo, anyone know
> This part number? And why it costs 400.00?


Just get a silicone one. No need to buy overpriced OEM.


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

20v master said:


> Just get a silicone one. No need to buy overpriced OEM.


 I would buy a silicone one for 200 over a 400 oem one as well...


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

ezlnh8u said:


> OMG!!! the part was the wrong one, its called the air breather hose, the one that goes from the intake to the turbo, anyone know
> This part number? And why it costs 400.00?


what year and model do you have?


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

get one of these, the samco ones for a bea engine code take too long to ship....unless you have amu engine code, then you can go w/ forge

http://www.034motorsport.com/engine...-inlet-hose-apr-tt-225hp-quattro-p-21368.html


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

Mine is a 2001 no ESP, I think it's an amu, what's the part called in forge?


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

ezlnh8u said:


> Mine is a 2001 no ESP, I think it's an amu, what's the part called in forge?


you can still buy from 034, just select 00-02 for the year of the car, The forge one is this one....

http://www.forgemotorsport.com/content.asp?inc=product&cat=010601SILH&product=FM225IND


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

I was looking at this one, but It does not indicate, anything about cars that dont have esp

https://store.goapr.com/products/Compressor-Inlet-Hose-%2d-TT225{47}S3{47}Cupra-R.html

The ones from forge, indicate, cars with esp.


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

ezlnh8u said:


> I was looking at this one, but It does not indicate, anything about cars that dont have esp
> 
> https://store.goapr.com/products/Compressor-Inlet-Hose-%2d-TT225{47}S3{47}Cupra-R.html
> 
> The ones from forge, indicate, cars with esp.


no, the forge one says does not support early 99 models with no esp, if yours is a 2001 then there's no issue. If you buy the one off 034motorsports.com it is cheaper and they will send you the correct one


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

although I have no esp button?


luchos said:


> no, the forge one says does not support early 99 models with no esp, if yours is a 2001 then there's no issue. If you buy the one off 034motorsports.com it is cheaper and they will send you the correct one


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

I'm pretty sure you're fine, the earlier cars had a different tip. Write forge a quick email to make sure...


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

Ended placing the order with apr, got this hose, hoppefully evrerything works out!

http://www.goapr.com/products/ms_compressor_hose.html


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

ezlnh8u said:


> Ended placing the order with apr, got this hose, hoppefully evrerything works out!
> 
> http://www.goapr.com/products/ms_compressor_hose.html


you should be fine, and hopefully that fixes it


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

WOW!!!!, Here we go again, the shop just confirmed they got the part from ups, but are stating it looks like its not the going to fit, I am on my way to the shop in about an hour, How difficult this hose has been for me, almost 3-weeks now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:banghead:


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

ezlnh8u said:


> WOW!!!!, Here we go again, the shop just confirmed they got the part from ups, but are stating it looks like its not the going to fit, I am on my way to the shop in about an hour, How difficult this hose has been for me, almost 3-weeks now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:banghead:


the hose will not be identical to the oem one, but it definitely should fit


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

So I decided to take the car out of the shop and do this myself, since they are saying it won't fit, on the way home the car kicked in and was reading over 15psi, but the cel came on, could we still be talking about the hose? Or is this something different now? I don't have a vag com.


nevermind, after another 10 min spin, the car only shot out 5psi again.


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

ezlnh8u said:


> So I decided to take the car out of the shop and do this myself, since they are saying it won't fit, on the way home the car kicked in and was reading over 15psi, but the cel came on, could we still be talking about the hose? Or is this something different now? I don't have a vag com.
> 
> 
> nevermind, after another 10 min spin, the car only shot out 5psi again.


It can definately trigger a CEL from unmetered air entering the engine... post some pictures of the oem vs aftermarket turbo inlet pipe if you can. Please don't go back to that shop again, it seems these guys have no idea what they are doing.


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

I will post pics this afternoon, any pointers to look out for before pulling this inlet out?


luchos said:


> It can definately trigger a CEL from unmetered air entering the engine... post some pictures of the oem vs aftermarket turbo inlet pipe if you can. Please don't go back to that shop again, it seems these guys have no idea what they are doing.


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

ezlnh8u said:


> I will post pics this afternoon, any pointers to look out for before pulling this inlet out?


make sure the diameter that goes around the turbocharger is the same and count if they have the same amount of connections that go to them


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

So this little hose, was a fighter, For my big hands.lol, The first picture is what the oem looks like, and how damaged it is, the other pictures show, that my mechanic was right, the apr hose is the wrong one  so I will be making the call to apr tomorrow and hopefully they have the correct one, A few concerns I have now, 

(A): I was able to use the oem one with what was left of the tip, I was able to have enough slack for the ring to tighten the hose firmly, But after starting the car, the problem was still there, Not sure if the hose is just completely unusable? or is it in fact another problem?

(B): Is there anyone out there that has an oem t.i.P?....... 

Here are some pictures of the hoses, side by side, please give me your expertise input, thanks everyone.


This is the hose, that is bad.









This is the end or the start of were the turbo connects to, Is it bad?......lol


















This piece was stuck to the turbos round end barrier.









Oem &apr side by side, can anyone tell me whats wrong here?


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

Anyone know any local shops in los angeles, that carry these hoses? I have googled, binged, and come up with the the audi dealer ship.


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

Called apr, and they were no help, they said that is the only hose they have for the car, So basically I paid for over night shipping for a product they knew was wrong, There has to be some company that has this hose, besides the oem one that cost about 460.00!!!!!!!!!!!


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

I have an OEM one that has nothing wrong with it if you want to buy it for cheap. Otherwise, the APR will work, just some of the ports are in the wrong place. You'd need to make them work by moving some lines/valves around but it can be done pretty easily with some creativity.


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

pm'd


20v master said:


> I have an OEM one that has nothing wrong with it if you want to buy it for cheap. Otherwise, the APR will work, just some of the ports are in the wrong place. You'd need to make them work by moving some lines/valves around but it can be done pretty easily with some creativity.


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

So your saying I might need to purchase some extensions to make this work?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

No, he's saying that there is nothing wrong with the APR one you have (except the need to move a few stuff around). No extension is needed (the aftermarket silicone hoses aren't exact replica of the OEM hose), but as long as they slip over the compressor inlet and your MAF housing, they will work. What's crazy is that the shop wasn't able to figure that out. :screwy:


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> No, he's saying that there is nothing wrong with the APR one you have (except the need to move a few stuff around). No extension is needed (the aftermarket silicone hoses aren't exact replica of the OEM hose), but as long as they slip over the compressor inlet and your MAF housing, they will work. What's crazy is that the shop wasn't able to figure that out. :screwy:


it looks like there might be one extra port on the aftermarket one, just plug that up if that's the case. You can definitely make it work by moving a few things around :thumbup:


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

Another question, once this is all plugged in, should the cel go away, or do I have to erase the code somehow?


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

ezlnh8u said:


> Another question, once this is all plugged in, should the cel go away, or do I have to erase the code somehow?


The CEL/light may go off after a few cycles but the codes will remain stored in the ECU. I didn't answer your PM since I'm hoping you will make the APR TIP work. If you decide you can't make it work or don't want to deal with it, send me another PM and we'll work out something for the OEM TIP.


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

Thanks for the update, I will post my conclusion on this hose.


20v master said:


> The CEL/light may go off after a few cycles but the codes will remain stored in the ECU. I didn't answer your PM since I'm hoping you will make the APR TIP work. If you decide you can't make it work or don't want to deal with it, send me another PM and we'll work out something for the OEM TIP.


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

Since I will most likely be removing the driverter valve, whats the best way to go about greasing it? I have a forge version.


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

ezlnh8u said:


> Since I will most likely be removing the driverter valve, whats the best way to go about greasing it? I have a forge version.


get some synthetic lube, take the piston out of the valve, grease the walls of the dv and piston and reassemble. 5 mins at most


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

Ok, this hose is impossible, for sure it's not the correct one, and it's so short.


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

ezlnh8u said:


> Ok, this hose is impossible, for sure it's not the correct one, and it's so short.


It might not be the right one, but you can make it work. It looks like it's the same length to me...


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

The only way I will make this work, is by adding extra hoses, I will post pics, the new hose dongles are to small for the top Conection and to big for the bottom.


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

this hose connection is to small for the device before the driverter valve, 









this thing









these inlets are to small and located in all the wrong places, I will need to re route them with extra hoses


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## jacobm (Aug 5, 2011)

Mine had to have an extra hose coming from the hockey puck too. Just run a a line from it into a plug and then into the inlet. CLamp it real good and youre done


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

not only does the hockey puck have to be re-routed, but also the little line before the puck, with the electronic connection, Although I am not sure what goes first, the hockey puck, or the little tube with the pin, both of these have to be re-routed.


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

ezlnh8u said:


> not only does the hockey puck have to be re-routed, but also the little line before the puck, with the electronic connection, Although I am not sure what goes first, the hockey puck, or the little tube with the pin, both of these have to be re-routed.


the electric connection is the n75, it does not matter what goes where as long as the n75 is connected the same way as it was on the oem hose.


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

luchos, you mean the electrical plug has to be plugged, but not the actual hose in the same place, because, the new ones location is at the bottom, after the driverter valve.


luchos said:


> the electric connection is the n75, it does not matter what goes where as long as the n75 is connected the same way as it was on the oem hose.


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

ezlnh8u said:


> luchos, you mean the electrical plug has to be plugged, but not the actual hose in the same place, because, the new ones location is at the bottom, after the driverter valve.


it doesn't matter where it goes on the hose, as long as the harness can reach and plug in and as long as the 3 nipples on the n75 are connected the same way they were when you pulled off the tip


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

Hose is on, all ports connected firmly, still only pushing 5psi with cel, any guesses?


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

Unplugged the battery for 10min, my car reads 15-18 psi now, no cel???? Wth is going on here?


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

ezlnh8u said:


> Unplugged the battery for 10min, my car reads 15-18 psi now, no cel???? Wth is going on here?


you reset the cel that's why it boosts fine, see if it comes back... if it does, then it could be a bad n75 that's throwing you in limp mode


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

how tediouse is it to test the n75?


luchos said:


> you reset the cel that's why it boosts fine, see if it comes back... if it does, then it could be a bad n75 that's throwing you in limp mode


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## Dowski12 (Nov 2, 2011)

Blow in all three of the nipples. One should blow through, you shouldn't be able to blow through the other two. Will take 5 mins, no sweat :thumbup:


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

Thanks, will try that tomorrow.:thumbup:


Dowski12 said:


> Blow in all three of the nipples. One should blow through, you shouldn't be able to blow through the other two. Will take 5 mins, no sweat :thumbup:


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

ezlnh8u said:


> Thanks, will try that tomorrow.:thumbup:


or you can do what I told you before, if it goes into limp again disconnect the hose that goes to the wastegate and see if the boost will climb above 5psi.... DO NOT floor it or you will overboost and damage your motor


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

Second day, no cel, boosting normal, contemplating purchasing a new n75, any recommendations?


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

ezlnh8u said:


> Second day, no cel, boosting normal, contemplating purchasing a new n75, any recommendations?


Hold off on it for now they are like $100+...it could have been the rip in the hose that was putting you in limp


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## ezlnh8u (Aug 19, 2012)

Thank you all for the suggestions and help, its been a few days now with no issues.


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## jacobm (Aug 5, 2011)

Yeah dont buy a n75 if youre not having problems. They're fairly simple things either they work or they don't. So you don't have to sorry yours is going bad or anything. Save your money for some mods or maintenance in the future.


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## carlmichael1 (Jul 1, 2013)

had the same issue but i installed it backwards along with a vacuum leak and wrong vac lines on the FPR. now car boosts, kinda high and it starts sputtering at about 16-21 PSI, i let off the trhottle and car runs great at about 9-12 PSI. 
Should i be worried about high boost spikes?
car is stock as far as i know. how to tell if car is flashed w/o VAGCOM?


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

If you run into a situation where your port is a smaller diameter than the hose, you can do what I did. Take a piece of hose that fits, and jam it on there. Then cut the piece so it doesnt stick out past the end of the nipple. Then with a little persuasion you should be able to fit your bigger diameter hose on top of that (a little spit/WD40 helps). I had to do this with my DV and my WG actuator ports. They were just a little too small for the hose to fit on their snug.


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