# Sticky  8V Forum FAQ



## Coolwhite Fox (Feb 9, 2001)

*8V FAQ*

Have at it folks. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Please *only* post answers in this thread.
8v Engine FAQ
8v Engine Listing


_Modified by The_Hamster at 5:06 PM 8-27-2008_


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## Coupe_88 (Feb 7, 2003)

*Re: 8V FAQ (Coolwhite Fox)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by Coupe_88 at 4:41 AM 9-12-2003_


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## Coupe_88 (Feb 7, 2003)

*Re: 8V FAQ (Coolwhite Fox)*

Dual outlet manifold, dual downpipe , and high flow cat install. 
-My notes on this experience. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=917225
Digifant Idle help
-idle switch adjustment mainly, a commonly overlooked step
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=731083
Engine mount replacement
-Right rear, notes from my experience
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=963180
Timing Belt replacement
http://www.alpinenetworks.com/~sarwat/jetta/tb/
Water Pump replacement
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=548334
Various useful VW info
http://www.nwlink.com/~vdb/cars.html

_Modified by Coupe_88 at 5:05 AM 9-12-2003_


_Modified by Coupe_88 at 5:15 AM 9-12-2003_


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## DanielAdams (Aug 22, 2002)

*Re: 8V FAQ (Coupe_88)*

*HELP!*
*I need help right now. I need to rebuild my car in 10 minutes or my life is over. If you have a problem, if no one else can help, and if you can find them, maybe you can ask... *
*Acronyms & Abbreviations*
A few acronyms for those struggling to understand posts in the archives etc:
ABA - 2litre 8v block that debuted on mk3 Golfs amongst others.
AFM - An airflow meter. Reports the quantity of air entering the engine to the ECU.
CIS - Continuous INjection fuelling system - fuel injectors run in continuous cycle whilst engine is running.
CTS - Coolant temperature sensor. Blue plug on water pipe on fornt of cylinder head.
digi - Digifant Electronic fuel injection system as used on later mk2 8v golfs, amongst others.
digi1 - two varieties of digifant referred to as 'digi'. First, California-only emissions-tight digifant version. Second, digi1 as used in G60 engines.
digi2 - later released digifant system utilising VAM, most digifants are digi2.
ISV- Idle Stabilisation Valve, electronically controlled valve used to stabilise idle under ancilliary load. Cylindircal object on top of rocker cover with one plug and two hoses connected to it.
ECU - Electronic Control Unit, manages electrnoic fuel injections etc. Metal box with heatsink, usually under left hand corner of raintray cover in engine bay.
EFI - electronically controlled fuel injections system. As used on digifant.
ICM - ignition control module. sits on top of ECU and controls ignition.
ICU - ignition control unit, as above.
ITBs - Individual throttle bodies. A throttle body for each cylinder, as opposed to the single throttle body attached to a common intake plenum used on most EFI setups.
MFI - mechanicallly controlled fuel injection. As used on post-carb, pre-digifant 8v engines.
O2 - oxygen sensor in exhaust system that helps report lean/rich condition of engine to ECU.
OEM - Original Equipment Manufacturer. OEM items are items that came "stock" from VW.
VAM - vane air meter. A type of AFM that utilises a flap spring-loaded against engine load to report air intake quantity.
*IM me if you have any others you think would help people, or spotted a mistake above*








*Digifant* 
Where can I find basic information about Digifant fuel injection?  
Where can I find Digifant technical documentation (for advanced questions)?

*Engine Blocks* 
What is the difference between 3A and ABA blocks? 
what is an ABA block?
What other engine could I swap in? (Gasp! 8v heresy!)
What sort of power can an ABA block swap make? 

*Heads*
what's the best 8v head? 
Can I re-use my head bolts? 
What flows better: counterflow or crossflow head? 
How can I tell a solid head from a hydro one?
will a 16v head fit an 8v block? 

*Clutches* 
how do i go about replacing my clutch? (second how-to)
Can I use a 16v clutch and pressure plate on my 8v? 

*Idle* 
How do I fix my digifant's erratic idling? 
Where is my ISV located? 
Can I clean my ISV?
Do I need an ISV?
How can I remove my ISV? 

*Other* 
How do I find a vacuum leak? 
What is the knock sensor and how does it work? 
Can I swap out or improve my intake manifold?  
What the heck is the plastic thing under the gas pedal? 
How can I nudge my 8v through an emissions test? 
what OEM bolt-ons are there for the 8v?
Where can I get a cheap o2 sensor?
Any tips on fixing my sloopy shifter? 

*If anyone can improve on the answers to these questions, just post in the relevant linked thread so the info is there to people who follow that link from the FAQ*








Dan
_Modified by DanielAdams at 1:15 PM 11-6-2003_


_Modified by DanielAdams at 5:56 PM 3-19-2004_


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## gearhead455 (Oct 30, 2001)

*Re: 8V FAQ (DanielAdams)*

System overview of CIS K-Jetronic injection 









What engine code and what injection system? :








_CIS basic before 1979, Systems after 79 have O2 sensors on US models_ 


_Modified by gearhead455 at 2:15 PM 9-12-2003_


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## rocco8v (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: 8V FAQ (gearhead455)*

Always a good explination gearhead...
For those of you runing digi II, you can upgrade your fuel injectors to G60. Also the G60 FPR is an upgrade. These make a nice addition to a low boost application. 
For all JH motor owners... Get the cam from a 1.5 or 1.6 liter motor... nice idle, but more duration and lift... great factory upgrade...
020 Transmission Specifications Codes located at bottom of Bell Housing

CODE R&P 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th Overall Flanges Switch Mount 
2H 3.94 3,45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.91 3.59 90mm Large Stud 
2Y 3.67 3.45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.91 3.34 100mm Small Both* 
4K 3.94 3.45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.89 3.46 90mm Large Stud 
4S 3.94 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.91 0.75 2.96 100mm Large Hole 
4T 3.67 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.91 0.75 2.75 90mm Large Stud 
4Y 3.67 3.45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.91 3.34 90mm Large Stud 
6G 3.65 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.91 0.71 2.59 90mm Large Stud 
7A 3.94 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.91 0.71 2.80 90mm Large Stud 
7D 3.94 3.45 1.94 1.25 0.91 0.71 2.80 90mm Large Stud 
7G 3.65 3.45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.91 3.32 90mm Large Stud 
8A 3.67 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.91 0.75 2.75 90mm Large Stud 
9A 3.67 3.45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.89 3.27 100mm Large Hole 
ACD 3.67 3.45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.89 3.27 100mm Small Both* 
ACH 3.94 3.45 1.94 1.37 1.03 0.75 2.96 90mm Large Hole 
ACL 3.67 3.45 1.94 1.37 1.03 0.75 2.75 100mm Large Hole 
ACN 3.67 3.45 1.94 1.37 1.03 0.75 2.75 100mm Large Hole 
AEN 3.67 3.45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.89 3.27 100mm Small Both* 
AGB* 3.67 3.45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.91 3.34 100mm Large Both* 
AGS 3.94 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.91 0.75 2.96 100mm Small Hole 
AMC 3.67 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.97 0.80 2.94 100mm Small Hole 
AON 3.67 3.45 1.94 1.37 1.03 0.75 2.75 100mm Small Hole 
AOP 3.94 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.91 0.75 2.96 100mm Small Hole 
APW 3.67 3.45 1.75 1.37 0.97 0.85 3.20 90mm Large Hole 
ASF 3.67 3.45 1.94 1.37 1.03 0.75 2.75 100mm Small Hole 
ATH 3.67 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.91 0.75 2.75 100mm Small Hole 
AUG 3.67 3.45 1.94 1.44 1.13 0.89 3.27 100mm Small Hole 
AVX 4.25 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.91 0.75 3.19 90mm Small Hole 
AWY 3.94 3.45 1.94 1.44 1.13 0.89 3.51 100mm Small Hole 
CHE 3.67 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.97 0.80 2.94 100mm Small Hole 
FD 3.89 3.45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.91 3.54 90mm Small Stud 
FF 3.89 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.97 0.76 2.96 90mm Large Stud 
FH 3.89 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.91 0.71 2.76 90mm Large Stud 
FJ 3.89 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.91 0.71 2.76 90mm Large Stud 
FK 3.89 3.45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.91 3.54 90mm Small Stud 
FM 3.89 3.45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.91 3.54 90mm Small Stud 
FN 3.89 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.91 0.71 2.76 90mm Large Stud 
FO 3.89 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.97 0.76 2.96 90mm Small Stud 
there are the 020 trans codes...


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## Krautwagen (Sep 17, 2002)

*Re: 8V FAQ (rocco8v)*

*Cam Saver / Upper Oil Baffle* 








Will work with ALL VW 8v valve covers
This includes:
G60
Polo
Seat
standard stamped steel
And should fit most aftermarket ones:
Drake
If you can add any to this list (i.e. Moroso, Oettinger(sp?)), please IM me


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## Brooklynkidvw (Sep 8, 2002)

*Re: 8V FAQ (Krautwagen)*

More info







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## turbovw18 (Jul 5, 2002)

*Re: 8V FAQ (Brooklynkidvw)*

where's all the CIS help http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
good info


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## Coupe__88 (Sep 14, 2003)

*Re: 8V FAQ (turbovw18)*

A/C removal on 8 valve cars with manual steering: 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1081179


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## rocco8v (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: 8V FAQ (Coupe__88)*

I know that all of you know this, but...
Cut out the bottom, headlight side, and fender side of your airbox, with a K&N drop in... maybe 5 hp at the top... maybe. 
Replace your throttle body with an audi 5000, or A2 golf jetta CIS car. larger butterflys, more air...
Get a cam from a digi 2 GTI, it has more lift and duration than yours, a little stock upgrade, especially if your poor...
Replace your airtube with painted PVC pipe (the white stuff) in a 3" diameter. I know it sound ghetto, but would you rather spend $10, or $90 from ABD???
All the A1 CIS cars, get an A2 cis fuel distributer, the air side is larger for better flow.
Scirocco owners... buy the Autotech, or make your own Alternator wire upgrade. it really helps, especially with a system and better lighting. i never had a dead battery with this upgrade. 
Speaking of alt. upgrades, most if not all 8v owners can upgrade to the 120 amp audi alternator, but i don't know how... someone help please.
Oh yea one more thing... i learned this the hard way... ANY TIME YOU BUY A CAR... RIP THE OILPAN OFF AND CHECK THE OIL SUMP TUBE!!!!!!! i roasted my german spec rocco this way... just buy a gasket, and change the oil, but clean out the tube to be on the safe side...


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## MK2RIDER (Nov 4, 2003)

*Re: 8V FAQ (Coolwhite Fox)*

how do i make my car fast i have a 1992 golf 4 door 1.8l 8 v automatica








i got bet my a honda accord 92 auto








HELP
_Modified by MK2RIDER at 6:27 AM 11-14-2003_ 

_Modified by MK2RIDER at 6:29 AM 11-14-2003_


_Modified by MK2RIDER at 7:20 AM 11-14-2003_


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## Coupe__88 (Sep 14, 2003)

*Re: 8V FAQ (MK2RIDER)*

Your best bet is to do your homework, learn about engines, and talk to experienced tuners about what works good with other things. definiatly try this question in the forum, G2/J2 forum and you will get better results.


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## Zekes89Jetta (Jun 14, 2003)

*Re: 8V FAQ (Coolwhite Fox)*

If you're having idle or hesitation problems and nothing has corrected it.......check the collar/flange on the oil dipstick tube. If its cracked/broken/not sealing good it will cause a vacumn leak. Everytime I suggest this to someone thats having idle hesitation problems I get replies like...dude you cant be serious.
Look it up in the Bentley.
Section 5 page 7, Fuel System-Gasoline
Last sentence in paragraph of 3.1 ----- Since proper fuel system operation depends on accurate measurement of the intake air, any unmetered air entering the system via vacumn leaks will cause poor running.
Section 5 page 14 This is for Digifant but probally applies to CIS as well....a vacumn leak is a vacumn leak.
Table D Digifant Troubleshooting....
symptom...Engine idles rough or stalls
Probable cause...a.--Vacumn(intake air) leak
Corrective action...a.---Inspect intake air components for leaking hoses, hose connections, and cracks or other leaks. Check for loose oil fill cap or dip stick If the dip stick collar is cracked...it might as well be loose...its not sealing.
Symptom...Engine misses, hesitates, or stalls under load
Probable cause....Vacumn leak is listed again and the corrective action is the same as above.


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## RommelVeedubber (Oct 7, 2003)

Will the oil pump from a JH engine fit in an RV engine?


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## rocco8v (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: (RommelVeedubber)*

yes, but the RV is a hydro motor, and the RV oil pump is rated for more, so always get a hydro oil pump, or you will starve your lifters for oil, cause premature failure.


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## RommelVeedubber (Oct 7, 2003)

Good to know. Also, are there any issues when putting a JH head on the RV block? Are there any oil jounals that don't line up or stuff like that? I understand that the JH is a solid lifter head, so the only major thing is setting up the valves correctly.


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## rocco8v (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: (RommelVeedubber)*

No problem with the internals, but your Fuel injection is going to be a pain. You are going from a digi 2 head to CIS... I am not sure of the process of converting the head to take digi 2, but there are steps to take.


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## RommelVeedubber (Oct 7, 2003)

Ok, does anybody know the steps? IIRC, there's something to do with the injectors, shrouds maybe? Can somebody explain the differences?


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## wildvw4 (Oct 19, 2002)

*Re: 8V FAQ (Coolwhite Fox)*

OK, the good news is that the clutch lever was in fact broken and I got a new one for it.
However, now I have another problem. I accidentaly removed a long, smooth shaft from the upper right hand side of the tranny (like when you're looking straight at the green cap at the end of the tranny) and I can't put it back in 'cause something is on the way.







Someone told me this shaft is what holds the gears in the tranny together and when I pulled it, the gears collapsed. He told me the only way to put it back in is to completely remove the tranny, open it up and realign it. Basically, rebuild the tranny.
PLEASE TELL ME THIS ISN'T TRUE.








If I need to remove the tranny, are there any special tools I should get to do the job? Any special tools required to do work inside of the tranny?
Any advice/suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Tony



_Modified by wildvw4 at 8:17 AM 3-25-2004_


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## RommelVeedubber (Oct 7, 2003)

*Re: 8V FAQ (wildvw4)*

That depends on which shaft you pulled. Shouldn't this be in the tranny forum, since this isn't specifically about 8V's? Oh well, anyways.
If the shaft that you pulled had a little spring on the end (selector fork rod), then yeah, you're screwed and you'll have to tear down your tranny. If you're lucky, and patient enough, you might get away with just pulling apart the selector shaft itself, and realigning the shift forks from the hole in the top. You'll need some sort of giant allen wrench to take off the end cap on the top front, then carefully slide everything out, since it's spring loaded inside. Of course, you have to take off the shift linkages first.
BUT, if the shaft you pulled was really long and had a ball shaped tip on one side (clutch pushrod), which is the side that presses into the release bearing, then it should be all clear, right up to the pressure plate.


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## wildvw4 (Oct 19, 2002)

*Re: 8V FAQ (RommelVeedubber)*

Thanks RommelVeedubber
I guess I'm screwed...I pulled the "selector fork rod"








Oh well, I'll have to tear down the tranny.


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## DanielAdams (Aug 22, 2002)

*Re: 8V FAQ (wildvw4)*

*people, this is meant to be the FAQ, not a regular thread. please do NOT post in this thread with problems! start up a new thread instead.*


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## dubed_out (May 2, 2004)

[No message]


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## rocco8v (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: (dubed_out)*

Ok, so I have decided to list a few facts about turbo charging your 8v powerplant. I have been doing a lot of research on this, and, I know this is the 8v FAQ, but alot of people new to the forum see this thread before they venture into boost. The information in this post is gathered from multiple posts and sites that i have gathered, although nothing is directly plagurized.
Stage 1 8v turbo project: 200 hp
Find a low milage 8.6:1 c/r block, or a set of G60 pistons and rods.
Get yourself a good deal on a G60 head and wiring, with sensors. The g60 had sodium filled valves, and the head, and cam were designed for boost. Make sure to get the intake manifold and throttle body as well, as this will make the easiest set up.
You now need a turbo, and manifold. You can get the manifold from various parts suppliers, EIP, 8vturbo.com, aptuning.com... ebay. Look for killa on the tex, http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1005282 . He can get good brand new turbos, cheap. I will either be buying mine from him, or getting the EIP do it yourself kit. You can also get them from a junk yard. Saab 900's, Ford T-bird turbo coupes, Nissan 300zx's, whatever you can find that has a T-3.
Corrado, metal headgasket. ARP Headsuts. Stage 4 G60 chip. Porsche 944 FPR, Blowoff valve, and intercooler. Plan ahead where everything will bolt up and run. 
Next get a set of either G60 or 1.8T plugs. Get a better set of plug wires, although not really neccesary. Look for a manual, or electronic boost controller, and oil lines, and fittings for your turbo lube.
Bolt it together, check for boost leaks, and squeal some tire. I would start out at around 5 to 7 PSI and test the system, before bumping it up to 13 to 17. You will be grinning from ear to ear.
The only thing i think I want to do different is...
I will buy the EIP starter kit for the turbo, manifold, lines, downpipe, and accesories. I will then next buy the SDS standalone managment system, with fuel and spark. Use a 16V block, with G60 rods and pistons. G60 Head, worked. Now I can program my own fuel curve, and ignition curve as well. I can also monitor everything going on with my motor. I would also definatly suggest upgrading to 2.5 inch exhaust, with a high flow cat, and straight through muffler. Turbo cars tend to be quieter that N/A cars... you wont wake up the neighbors.
Here are some links to products I will be buying:
http://www.sdsefi.com/
http://www.eiptuning.com/eip/4....html
The rest is up to your imagination.


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## Digiracer (May 5, 2002)

*BMW Airflow Meter Swap How To: (Digifant II Vehicles)*

*Who Can Play?: *87-92 Golf, GTI, Jetta, Fox, Cariolet & anything else running on Digifant II
16 Valve Digifant II owners, this is a must do mod IMHO. Near stock or heavily moddified, 16Valve engines can really take advantage of this. Whether you know it or not, your 16 Valve has athsma & this is the cure.








*The Point:* Significant increases in Horsepower & Torque throughout the entire rev range. I'll have some dyno numbers soon. If you're serious about big horsepower and you've done everything else (cam, intake, chip, exhaust) this is the next step. If you didn't catch that, this should be done last.
*Supplies Needed:*
1. Airflow Meter: (AFM) found on the 85-88 BMW 535i (most common), 635i, & 735i. It's the K Series Engine, a 3.5 Liter SOHC Inline 6.
New AFMs for these cars are expensive, as high as $450+








Used ones are very cheap from $40-$100 (I only paid $60, shipped to my door) & they can be found @ http://www.car-part.com/
Search for 1987 BMW 535i under Airflow Meter
Mine is from a 1987 BMW 535i it's a Bosch Unit. 
The part # is: *0280 203 027*
*Note:* Do not use the BMW AFMS found on the 325i, 328e, 525i, 528e etc. these units are the same size as our stock/OEM units. (they'll work fine, they just won't give you anymore power)
*Note:* Your engine is not going to pull the vacuum of a 3.5 liter 6cyl. Therefor you need to reduce the spring tension to allow your engine to idle properly. (with my 2.0L ABA/1.8 head I found reducing tension 8 clicks to work best) If you're using a 1.8L I assume you'd need to reduce it more.
Their's no wire splicing or cutting involved, it's a straight plug & play deal, it connects using your Factory Connector. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 








2. 3 Inch Intake Piping: cut to desired length, I purchased mine @ Summit Racing Equipment & paid too much.
You'll need atleast 2 feet & 3-4 hose clamps.
AT Sears Hardware, I found 3inch Clothes Dryer Ducting in 2 foot sections for only $4.99 a section & it looks identical to the fancy Summit Racing Tubing I spent $60 on.
Sears also has quick release 4" clamps for only $1.09 a piece.








The stuff shown above is from Wynn Enviromental.
It's used for dust collection in woodworking/metal working.
I'm using it & so far has proved to be durable.
It's extremely affordable at $33.00 for 10' (feet).
http://www.wynnenv.com/flexible_hose.htm
3. 3Inch K&N, ITG Racing Filter or other similar style cone air filter.
again I probably paid too much, I bought my K&N @ Summit Racing for $36.








I've replaced my K&N to compliment my cold air intake setup with this lower profile Dome Style Ractive SF400 Filter:








I paid only $25.95 for it at Autotoys & it has a built in velocity stack & washable reusable filter.








http://www.autotoys.com/x/cata....html
4. Larger Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) depending on your mods, Cam & how well the head flows you'll need atleast a 3.5 bar to a 4.5 bar FPR. The 3.5 bar is a stock Porsche 944S Unit & can be found @ http://www.germanautoparts.com/ for $41.
The part #s for the 3.5 bar FPR is:
Bosch part# *0 280 160 263*
Porsche part # *944 110 198 03*








I'd suggest a 4bar FPR or better yet an adjustable FPR.
Find out more about them in my 4bar/ Adjustable FPR Thread
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1523014
To go larger you can crush a stock one yourself using DIY instructions @ http://www.snstuning.com/DIY/FPR/fpr.htm
Ideally you'd want an adjustable FPR & a air/fuel ratio meter to tune it with but again not required.
This is the Adjustable/Rising Rate FPR I'm using:








http://www.bavauto.com/shop.asp
It's a Malpassi FPR from Bavarian Autosport for BMWs.
It's an excellent unit but fits very tight & is not recomended for use with a G60 Valve Cover or other boxed valve covers.

Depending on how far you go, you'll need bigger injectors.
I'm using these: 24 lb Accels http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I noticed a nice improvement in throttle response with these.







Alot of the 16 valve Digi2 guys are using stock 24-26 lb G60 Injectors.








This is the Air/ Fuel Ratio Meter I use, it's a Cyberdyne A/F Gauge. It's $36.95 @ Summit Racing, it works well & is accurate.









5. A better chip is suggested but not required.
AMS is by far the best chip currently available.
http://www.advancedmotorsport.com/ 
Increases injector pulse width(more fuel), has agressive timing maps, & raises the rev limit to 7,000 rpm. (with the right mods, you'll make power that high with this AFM)
A cheap alternative is the SNS Cam Chip, it only increases fuel but you'll still have the stock 6,200 rpm rev limit & it does nothing for timing. It's only $39 & better than nothing.
http://www.snstuning.com/








This is what mine looks like.








This is what no ISV/IAC motor & no PCV etc looks like.
If you're wondering where the PCV pipe goes, It goes to a Reeses Peanut Butter Can w/a K&N style breather filter mounted on the lid. This home made breather is concealed behind the front bumper yet is easily accessible to empty as needed.
If you really wanted to, I'm sure you can retain your ISV & or PCV. The ISV Port on mine is blocked off but you can go that route if you wish to retain the ISV function. 
FWIW mine idles like a watch @ 1,000 rpm I have no issues with it. It does idle low when it's cold about 850-900 ish but once wamed up it idles flawlessly. 
Adjusting the Idle is still the same, adjusting using the Idle Screw on the Throttle Body.








16 Valve Digifant II users: 
This mod is a no brainer, you're obligated to do this if you want to make good power with your 16V Digi2. Many of us 8 Valve people have very low HP peaks around 5,000 rpm. Not because of the 8 Valve Design but because of the small AFM. With that in mind you gotta think this is seriously giving your 16 Valve asthma attacks beyond 5,000rpm. With a 16Valve head you'll be easily making HP deep into 7,000+ RPM Range. 
*BMW AFM vs VW AFM Size comparison:*








*The Door measurements: * 
VW AFM 2" H x 2 1/16"th W /50mm H x 52mm W
BMW AFM 2 9/16"th H x 2" W /65mm H x 50mm W
*Inlet Sizes: *
See Door Measurement for VW AFM
BMW AFM 3" or 75mm in Diameter
*Outlet Sizes:*
VW AFM 2 9/16"th or 65mm in Diameter
BMW AFM 3" or 75mm in Diameter
This is the Inlet Ring that comes with the BMW AFM, so you don't have to deal with using round hose on a square hole.












_Modified by Digiracer at 9:36 PM 4-15-2005_


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## rocco8v (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: BMW Airflow Meter Swap How To: (Digiracer)*

Just another thing... MK3 swaybars are an upgrade, and will fit.
just a cheap alternative to some aftermarket sawybars, for the daily driver, weekend canyon carver.


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## rocco8v (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: BMW Airflow Meter Swap How To: (rocco8v)*

This Post is to update all Digi II owners on what chips are still availible for our injection systems. Alot of speculation is flying around as to what is actually still out there. I recently made some phone calls, and talked to some reps about what each company can do for us. Here is a difinitive list as of the date on this post...
Techtonics Tuning carries a DIGI II chip. Power increase is quoted at 4 to 5 hp, however TT claims there chip will work in only 1/3 of the ECU's, Bosch being the brand of choice. The price of the chip... $110 plus shipping. The chip also comes with a Knock Sensor spacer, available by itself from TT. 
For those of you who can read German... here you go. This link is to a german tuning site, that claims to carry the DIGI II chip as well. The gains look pretty substantial from the numbers I can read, however, it is unknown at this time if the chip will actually work in our cars or not. Here is the link: http://www.powertec.at/datenbank/vw.html
VW_Pilot apparently still sells the CSW chip. This chip works well for the price, however doesn't fix alot of the problems, but for the money, drivability is increased. Here is the link to his post: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=284195
SNS Tuning does infact carry 2 chips for the Digi II injection. One is designed for a cam, and the other without. Not much is known what the chip does as a whole, however, each chip only runs you $39!!!! It may be a cheaper alternative to some of the other chips on the market. Here is the link to their site: http://www.snstuning.com/
Last but not least, AMS. Anyone you have talked to that owns this chip, will tell you. It IS the difinitive chip for DIGI II. This chip not only adds more fuel, but aggressive ignition maps as well. It completely ignores the coolant temp sensor once warmed up, and drivability and power are better than ever. Your Rev limiter is raised to 7000 as well. AMS however doesn't list this chip on their site, but it is STILL AVAILIBLE!!!!! Call AMS directly at (310)-763-8000. Talk to the rep and make sure you have your ECU type and number handy. This chip will set you back... $200 to $250. 
There you have it. If you have anymore information on Digi II chips, please feel free to shoot me an IM, and I will edit my post.


----------



## V_dubber03 (Mar 12, 2004)

*Re: BMW Airflow Meter Swap How To: (rocco8v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rocco8v* »_Just another thing... MK3 swaybars are an upgrade, and will fit.
just a cheap alternative to some aftermarket sawybars, for the daily driver, weekend canyon carver.

To save topics overflooding swaybar upgrades are better then stressbars as in more noticeable differnce not saying stressbars are crap so dont buy them just upgrade swaysbars before stressbar swaybar info as rocco8v listed^^
Sways=handle,driveabilty
stressbars=flexiabilty and stabilty


_Modified by V_dubber03 at 1:17 AM 8-14-2004_


----------



## grayfox (May 13, 2003)

*Re: BMW Airflow Meter Swap How To: (V_dubber03)*

does anyone have a diagram of the sensors?


----------



## machschnelGTI (Jun 28, 2004)

*Re: BMW Airflow Meter Swap How To: (grayfox)*

What about some CIS tips???


----------



## rocco8v (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: BMW Airflow Meter Swap How To: (machschnelGTI)*

Here is the link to the difinitive cheap A$$ build up... Read it, learn it, live it...
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1584170


----------



## mikevs (Oct 17, 2002)

*Re: 8V FAQ (rocco8v)*

What happened with the oil sump pipe?


----------



## emvee2003 (May 7, 2003)

*Re: BMW Airflow Meter Swap How To: (Digiracer)*

I've pretty done all 2.0 ABA 8v engine and 1.8 head mods incl. the AMS chip. What kind of improvement can I expect with the BMW AMF and your other recommendations? I'm thinking about not upgrading fuel injectors. Will I still see an improvement?
Thanks


----------



## mrkrad (Nov 9, 2000)

*Re: BMW Airflow Meter Swap How To: (emvee2003)*

think bout using a wideband first.
more fuel pressure is all you need to get a nice 13:1 a/f to redline. FPR's are cheap and easy to squash.
widebands are common all over the town nowadays. borrow one.
btw, you guys still haven't tried underclocking the ECU by 10% of the crystal on the motherboard?


----------



## TheTimob (Sep 13, 2003)

*Re: 8V FAQ (Coolwhite Fox)*

Here's my list of techtips - most of which apply to A1 and A2 8v Engines. More to come.

_Fixed URL_


_Modified by timbo2132 at 9:48 AM 3-15-2005_


----------



## emvee2003 (May 7, 2003)

*Re: BMW Airflow Meter Swap How To: (mrkrad)*

I'll order a 4.0 FPR and see what happens. I'm new to vwvortex; what's a "wideband"?
thanks


----------



## rocco8v (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: BMW Airflow Meter Swap How To: (emvee2003)*

A "wideband" is a term used for a Wideband O2 sensor. What this does, is allows you to see your air/fuel ratio in close detail, to accuratly tune your Fuel Injection system. Most used on turbo'd cars, but is used by other tuners on N/A cars.


----------



## andycirullo (Sep 15, 2004)

bump, looking for information on how to perform an aba bottom end swap to my 1.8l 8v, what are the neccasary parts i need for the swap and is there anything i should know about how to do this the easiest way possible? help please if you can


----------



## rocco8v (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: (andycirullo)*

look up the definitive cheap A$$ build up. Also, for more info, go to techtonicstuning.com, and they can help.


----------



## H2091 (Apr 2, 2005)

*A/C Removal on power steering equipped cars!!!*

Wanted to give the how to once and for all to clear up all confusion...
You need just two parts...
Non a/c alternator pulley
3/8" x 41 3/8" belt (can get from carquest for 10$)
Start by disconneting your battery
Remove alternator (13mm tensioner on top and allen head bolt on bottom)
Now loosen your P/S pump and remove the belt.
Loosen the tension on your a/c compressor and remove the a/c belt.
Remove a/c compressor from car (tensioner nut on top and two allen head bolts on bottom at pivot point)
Get that heavy and more then likely broke a/c compressor out of there.
Now remove the pulley from your alternator and replace with the non a/c pulley.
Reinstall the alternator. 
Belt routing..
Alternator belt goes around the inner crank pulley, inner water pump pulley and alternator pulley, once belt is installed check tension at the alternator and adjust as necessary.
Reinstall the power steering pump belt and tighten that bad boy up.
You are done, you now have no a/c and about 20lbs less on the front end of the car. You should notice that your steering got a little bit lighter and the throttle response quickened a tad.
Enjoy..
Don't listen to any other posts claiming that you need brackets, crank pulleys, alternator mounts etc... 
I did this last night and it worked flawlessly. best benefit I can see so far is that the oil filter is unobstructed. I can get my whole arm down there to grab the oil filter. Should make oil changes ten times easier.


----------



## mmmm-sushi (Oct 22, 2004)

*Re: A/C Removal on power steering equipped cars!!! (H2091)*

i am fairly new to the dub scene, so please help out. i am trying to buy a catalytic conv. for my 91 gti 8v, but all the choices are broken up into *1.8L "PL" Engine* or *1.8L 4 Cylinder, "PF" Engine *, so my question is how do i figure out which i have. thanks for the help. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## TheTimob (Sep 13, 2003)

*Re: A/C Removal on power steering equipped cars!!! (mmmm-sushi)*

The PL is a 16v
I have an Engine Database Here:

Engine Database


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## mmmm-sushi (Oct 22, 2004)

*Re: A/C Removal on power steering equipped cars!!! (timbo2132)*

thanks for the info, very helpful http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Gin (Feb 19, 2004)

*Time your RIDE*

Okay I just wrote all this for a post on how to time an 8v engine. After I got done I noticed that the dudes engine was a 16V so after cursing I figured I would copy it in here for reference








This is pretty much word for word out of the bently on how to properly ignition time a 8V digifant engine as well as checking for timing advance.

Unscrew the plug on the top of the transmission bell housing. I think its a 17mm allen. I used an easy out for mine cause i'm a ******* but one way or another it has to come out. Next, let the car run untill it gets up to normal operating temp or after the radiator fan cycles once or twice. Now, disconnect the coolant temp sensor (blue one right in front of the engine head on a coolant water neck). Next, rev the engine 3 times past 3000 rpm to clear the computer. Now connect your timing light probe wire to the coil wire going into the distributor. Rev the engine steady at about 2300 rpm's. Now aim the timing light into the hole and you should be able to see a steady spot on the flywheel. If you move the distributor by hand you can see how is adjusts the positions of the flywheel at which the light hits it. Its best to have 2 people so one person can try to keep the idle at 2300 while you move around the dizzy. You need to look for the small mark (its an indentation on the flywheel) to the left of the TDC mark which looks like a piece of the flywheel kinda sticking out like a tab. Align the center of the bell housing hole with the small timing mark by moving the dizzy slowly while trying to maintain 2300 rpms. Once you get it tighten down the dizzy. Re-connect the coolant sensor and rev the engine a couple times. Now at this point you should be good to go but since your already there you might as well check the timing advance. With the coolant sensor connected, point the timing light back in the hole. If you rev the engine from idle to say 3000 rpms you should see the fly wheel change positions and then as the car goes back to idle the flywheel returns back to its idle position that it started from. 
Its def a PITA but a poorly timed engine well.....runs poor.
Good Luck


----------



## Germnpwr (Aug 10, 2005)

*Re: 8V FAQ (wildvw4)*

i've converted a cis head to digi by getting the digi screw-in injector shrouds ( like $5 a peice ) and replacing the brass cis injector shrouds with the digi ones. I did two heads already both heads only had one fuel rail mounting hole line up, so either drill and tap for the other one or just use one ( i would drilland tap for durability ) I would prolly advise in getting new injector o-rings at the same time


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## SooprmanX (Sep 12, 2003)

*Re: 8V FAQ (Coolwhite Fox)*

MK2 Shifter alignment DIY
http://www.strictlyea.com/features/diyshifter.html


----------



## VdubFeind (Dec 9, 2002)

Sombody should Post a How to on the Ever so popular question " How do i remove my metal timing belt cover ". I've seached many times and never really got a clear answer on it.


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## satchimo (Mar 7, 2004)

*Re: 8V FAQ (Germnpwr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Germnpwr* »_i've converted a cis head to digi by getting the digi screw-in injector shrouds ( like $5 a peice ) and replacing the brass cis injector shrouds with the digi ones. I did two heads already both heads only had one fuel rail mounting hole line up, so either drill and tap for the other one or just use one ( i would drilland tap for durability ) I would prolly advise in getting new injector o-rings at the same time

VW Fox digifant (90-93) injector inserts will fit into any cis/cis-e head, including big valve solid lifters (and 16V intakes) for efi coversions. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## nitrous16v (Jan 16, 2004)

*Re: 8V FAQ (Coolwhite Fox)*

i just spoke with AMS advanced motorsport solutions and they still offer digi chip/ecu upgrades , rev limit is increased to 7000rpms and on the dyno they gained 11hp in the mid range and 8 hp peak. the dyno chart shows 93hp/105 ft/lbs tq stock and 102hp and 108ft/lbs tq with AMS chip/ecu upgrade. you need to send your ecu to them. application are 
1987 1/2 to 1992 49state golf/jetta
1987 1/2 to 1990 california golf/jetta
1990-1992 cabrio
their contact info is.
AMS
1-310-763-8000
http://www.amspower.com


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## 1slow91 (Jul 2, 2004)

*Re: BMW Airflow Meter Swap How To: (Digiracer)*

I have all these parts for the intake ready and the BMW MAF but when I tried to hook it up it didn't work.








By that I mean the car just didin't start after installing the new intake.
Even after when I tried to put on my old air box the car won't start.









And what do I do with all the vaccum hoses from the old air box?


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## abeaufils (Sep 1, 2005)

how do I install a 2.0 ABA bottom end on a 1.8 8v JH engine?
direct me to a post please


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## Lowjack (Aug 22, 2003)

*Re: (abeaufils)*

Solid lifter heads only came on CIS cars (not CIS-E)
size, year, model, .....................HP, Torque, ......................code, fuel system

1.5L 78-79 R/S/[email protected] [email protected] CIS 
1.6L 76-80 R/[email protected] [email protected], EJ CIS 
1.7L 81 - 84 R/J/S/[email protected] [email protected] CIS 
1.8L 83-84 GLI/S/GTI/[email protected] [email protected] CIS 
1.8L 85-89 J/[email protected] [email protected] CIS 
1.8L 85-88 G/J.........................85............................................GX CIS 
1.8L 85-86 G/[email protected] [email protected] CIS 
1.8L 87-90 [email protected] ......................................JN CIS 
1.8L 85 GTI/[email protected] [email protected] CIS-E 
1.8L 86-88 GTI/[email protected] [email protected] CIS-E 
1.8L 87-92 G/[email protected] [email protected] Digifant 
1.8L 90-93 [email protected].......ABG Digifant 
1.8L 87-92 G/J/[email protected] [email protected] Digifant 
1.8L 90-92 [email protected] [email protected] Digifant 
1.8L 89-92 [email protected]...PG Digifant 
1.8L 98+ Passat / Audi [email protected] [email protected] 
2.0L 93-98 G/J/[email protected] [email protected] Motronic 
2.0L Audi 80 [email protected] [email protected] CIS-E 
2.0L Beetle / 99 [email protected] [email protected] Motronic


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## Lowjack (Aug 22, 2003)

*Re: (abeaufils)*

sorry, forgot about your question http://www.techtonicstuning.co...2.htm Techtonics has a pretty good little write-up. I've done it 3 times, it's a breeze


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## whamdat (Dec 31, 2005)

*how do i swap a new intake*

i dont know what to do? i have a 86 jetta coupe and i want to put a new intake on it from a digi 2 91 mk2 gti. its a itg cone filter. would it work? im scared to try and touch my stock intake for the 8v. theres all sorts of tubes and metal things going to the airbox. if you can help that be awsome.

_Modified by whamdat at 4:28 PM 1-3-2006_


_Modified by whamdat at 4:29 PM 1-3-2006_


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## JettaGTI_UK (Aug 20, 2005)

*Re: how do i swap a new intake (whamdat)*

No it wont work. You need the cis adapter, ive seen them on ebay a few times.


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## satchimo (Mar 7, 2004)

early volvo ....240 non-turbo I believe.... has what your looking for.


----------



## whamdat (Dec 31, 2005)

*Re: how do i swap a new intake (JettaGTI_UK)*

thanks alot man that saves me a **** load of time doing nothing.


----------



## kmalonejr (Jan 6, 2005)

is there a DIY thread on an ABA bottom end swap?


----------



## Lowjack (Aug 22, 2003)

*Re: (kmalonejr)*

Injector Cups Explained
CIS injector cups are bigger than CIS-E and Digi cups
CIS-E and DIGI injector cups are the same size (CIS-E injectors will fit into digi cups and likewise for the reverse)
CIS and CIS-E injectors are the same size.
In conclusion
A CIS head can run CIS-E injection
A CIS-E head can run Digi injection
A Digi head can run CIS-E injection
you CAN run without the airshrouds with no noticable change in performance (from what I've experienced)
Tranny drain plugs will screw into the head in place of injector cups on CIS heads when running carbs (or maybe it was cis-e digi...i'll find out for sure and edit)
IM me for ABA swap info, carb info, or anything really










_Modified by Lowjack at 12:31 PM 7-7-2006_


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## Lowjack (Aug 22, 2003)

*Re: (Lowjack)*

You CAN run a solid cam in a hydraulic head BUT the head will have to be clearenced aroung the lifters to allow room for those big ass lobes








Also you can make a solid lifter head run hydraulic cam followers (they ain't lifters people cuz they push down).
For running hyrdo followers in a SL head place shims under the lifter to achive the correct heigth
Benefits to running a solid cam in a hydro head are minimum of .012" lift and 13° of rotation
Name---------------Part #----------------Duration----Lift-----Lobe-------In. open
[email protected][email protected] .050" 
------------------------------------------------In/Ex
Solid 
Std U.S. Solid---049 109 101C ----------222°-----.405"-----110°------ 1.3° BTDC 1.5-1.6L std. U.S. spec 
Hydraulic
Std A2 Hyd-"A"---026 109 101-----------209°-----.393"-----110°----- -5.6° BTDC '85-87' GX,HT Engines 
Std A2 Hyd-"G"---026 109 101 G--------214°-----.400"-----110°----- -2.8° BTDC '85-92' RD,PF,RV Engines 
Std A3 2.0L-8v---048 109 101D---------212°-----.400"-----113.5°--- -7.7° BTDC '93-'98 


_Modified by Lowjack at 12:22 AM 5-26-2006_


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## 959Lover (Jan 20, 2006)

Link for timing belt job no worky....HOW THE HELL do it get the upper timing belt cover off???
Fix da links yo







I saw some other ones that were broken as well


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## jus_sn (Apr 8, 2006)

*Cheap source for GOOD Vacuum hose*

If your replacing any vacuum hose I recommend ordering it from McMaster-Carr. They are an industrial supply company that I order from for work all the time. Out of curiosity I looked for silicone vacuum hose on their website and was surprised to find a larger selection than anywhere else I've seen and for prices at least $0.10 per foot less. I bought the hose with Durometer rating of 70 and found it to be slightly stiffer than the stuff you can get at Autozone (or on the 1internets). Me likey. 
http://www.mcmaster.com http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## jus_sn (Apr 8, 2006)

*Removing upper timing belt cover.*


_Quote, originally posted by *VdubFeind* »_Somebody should Post a How to on the Ever so popular question " How do i remove my metal timing belt cover ". I've searched many times and never really got a clear answer on it.

1) Remove nuts on valve cover with 10mm socket 
2) Remove socket head bolt with rubber grommet in center of metal upper timing belt cover with 8mm hex key.
3) Lift timing belt cover vertically.
4) Unhook/disconnect vacuum lines and throttle cable from valve cover and lift valve cover vertically.
5) Replace cork valve cover gasket with a rubber one ($10, usual places). http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
6) Leave upper timing belt cover off because your car is sexier with it off. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
7) Reposition valve cover and re-torque nuts to ~7 in-lbs.
8) Connect vacuum lines to valve cover and hook throttle cable back into its little home
If you just want the cover off skip steps 4,5 and 8.
BTW I'm going by memory on the sizes of the hex key and the socket, correct me if I am wrong.


----------



## Pleshy_GTI_VR6 (Nov 9, 2004)

I did a aba swap in my 91 jetta i am converting it to dual weber dcoe 40's. I need to know what fuel pump and what fuel presure regulatur to use.


----------



## 959Lover (Jan 20, 2006)

If you find your windshield washer jets are clogged and are afraid to use a needle to stab the crap out of them, try this:
Get a vacuum tester device (I use Mighty Vac) and attach the end to the tubes that let the water go to the jets. Pump it! It should suck all the junk right from the jets, but make sure it doesn't go into the vacuum device. There ya go, a simple problem solve-Ed.


----------



## Lowjack (Aug 22, 2003)

*Re: (Pleshy_GTI_VR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lowjack* »_Eh, $900 won't cut it








That's the motor I just finished. Needs to be rejetted but it's running
If you're goin carbs yo need to AT LEAST get Autotech eurosport cams and hd springs. ($500) Not needed but but the gains are huge and the carbs won't perform as well on the stock cams
You'll need aftermarket fans mounted to the front of the radiator ($65 shipped for 2 12" fans that move ALOT of air.
*Bypass your main pump (frame mounted) and use the tranfer pump only
Holley 12-803BP It's a new FPR with a return line. It says it starts at 4.5psi but i turned it down to 3 with no problems (Dellorto's don't like anuthing higher than 3.5psi)*
you're gonna need a fuel guage, $20
The distributor is off of a non-turbo mid 80's Saab 900. Use the Saab rotor but the vw 16v cap (the saab rotor autozone has in stock for like $5)
If your kit doesn't come with a water outlet (some do) you'll have to have the stock one cut and rewelded (it has mag in it so good luck fingind someone to weld it...mag rod is very expensive)
The wiring is pretty straight forward, I removed everything having to do with the ecu and left the rest. Even the MFA still works.
I also use the stock ICM allthough the GM 4-pin would be the next in line to use.


----------



## rglII (Jul 11, 2006)

*Re: 8V FAQ (MK2RIDER)*

you can do alot to your 8v wut do you have done to it now , i ahve a 8v i bet hondas ,


----------



## QUEDOG$1 (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: 8V FAQ pvc tube inplace of intake*

are their other mods required for the pvc tube to fit, can anyone provide info. how to


----------



## 16vnotchback (Sep 9, 2001)

*Re: 8V FAQ pvc tube inplace of intake (QUEDOG$1)*

Is the MKI/MKII 8V motor interference?
I was looking in my Bentley last night, Section 3, page 19 (?), and there was a note on the turning the cam by hand while doing a T-belt replacement, and the possibility of the valves hitting hitting the piston...but it was not clear on it being for a 16v or an 8v. I read this thread, but didnt find the answer (unless i passed right over it).
TIA
Rodrigo


_Modified by 16vnotchback at 5:12 AM 9-1-2006_


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## jfg69 (Mar 19, 2003)

*Re: BMW Airflow Meter Swap How To: (rocco8v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rocco8v* »_
VW_Pilot apparently still sells the CSW chip. This chip works well for the price, however doesn't fix alot of the problems, but for the money, drivability is increased. Here is the link to his post: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=284195


Link = "Forum disabled" is this still available?
Answered my own question.. (note to self: search username FIRST)
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2744977 


_Modified by jfg69 at 12:05 PM 10-19-2006_


----------



## Lowjack (Aug 22, 2003)

*Re: 8V FAQ pvc tube inplace of intake (16vnotchback)*

from the factory, only the 16v motors are interference. But here's a tip, rotate your motor 90 degrees from TDC (top dead center) and all your pistons will be level about 2" from your valves. as 2 go down, 2 go up, that way they all meet halfway through the stoke. one of them on combustion, one on intake, one on exhaust and one on compression


----------



## kamikazevw15 (May 19, 2004)

can i put a 1.8 8v haed on a 1.6?


----------



## xjronx (Oct 28, 2001)

*Re: (kamikazevw15)*

this is a link to a word document, it could be copied and pasted here in case it ever goes down.
http://www.vanagonauts.com/fil...x.rtf
Its details some digi2 troubleshooting and fixes , the digi2 system was also used in vanagons. Not my information, i just wanted to share what i found.


----------



## 1983gtiguy (Dec 27, 2004)

*Re: (xjronx)*

Link to info on Setrab oil cooler installation
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3211873


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

*Re: (1983gtiguy)*

is the g-grind cam a upgrade for a 96 2.0l x-flow


----------



## Aurora_GL (Aug 10, 2004)

*Re: (Couper1TEP)*

no that cam is solid lifter only. get a 270 autotech.


----------



## dubinprogress (Apr 9, 2006)

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## newbluevw (Sep 17, 2003)

*Re: 8V FAQ (Coolwhite Fox)*

how do i instal a starter on a n 8v manual


----------



## VWCR8ZY (May 10, 2006)

*Re: (Aurora_GL)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Aurora_GL* »_no that cam is solid lifter only. get a 270 autotech.

altho i agree with the 270 cam, i have had a g-grind cam in my hydo head


----------



## mk2allday (Apr 27, 2007)

what is the 8v top speed?


----------



## MaxVW (Nov 4, 2004)

*Re: (mk2allday)*

i got my jeta to 205 km/h with 3 people and lotsa junk in the trunk lol, only mod was coilovers
Ok i have a quesion about the 1987 BMW 535i afm, does the digi 2 computer actually understand what more than WOT on a stock afm is? cus if you have the bmw one in there it will give the potential for more airflow, and i cant see why the digi computer would understand it, its not really meant for it


----------



## Aurora_GL (Aug 10, 2004)

*Re: (VWCR8ZY)*

a cam with a *G* stamped on it does not make it the G-grind solid lifter cam that people rave abt. most 8v cams have that G stamp.


----------



## digitalexpl0it (Sep 9, 2007)

I hope this is the correct forum to post in. I am new to the boards.
I have an 1986 Jetta GL (Gas) Manual 5 speed, that will start then after about 30 secs stalls.
Also if you start the engine then hit the gas peddle it will stall.

I have done the following:
- Replaced Spark Plugs
- Replaced Battery
- Checked Air Filter
- Checked Oil
- Checked distributor cap (needle looks new)
- Checked vacuum lines
- Checked battery cables
- Checked fuses
- Checked Clutch peddle to see if it is engaging
Now if I try to start the car a couple of times I can smell fuel, then its flooded. So doesn't that mean its getting gas? Also the car has been sitting for 2 years outdoors. What else do I need to check. The Coil? Could it be the starter even though it starts then stalls?
Any help would be appreciated
thanks
D


----------



## Mk2doorgolf (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (digitalexpl0it)*

I had the exact same problem.. take off your Fuel dist (the thing on the air box with the steel lines) and make sure your needle isnt sticking there is a spring behind that needle and you might need some fuel...


----------



## veector (Mar 1, 2006)

*Re: (Mk2doorgolf)*

Hey I am trying to find the stroke and bore of for the 1.6 and 1.7 engines. I am trying to figure out what compression a 1.7 bottom end with 1.6 head will produce. This is with a 272* cam


----------



## short track (Dec 11, 2003)

*Re: 8V FAQ (Coupe_88)*

hey ya'll.... i have a couple questions....
one: i was told that putting type 3 subframes in my type 2, will increase my stance by @2". heard of this? and does that mean that i would have to get a type 3 dp to fit around the sub frame?
two: i got rid of my fox conv, how do i change my 'name' ? 
thanks for all the info..... i should have gone to work already, but i cant stop reading..... its like car crack !!!!!
"this aint the first time i tasted pee joe rogan !!! "


----------



## Aurora_GL (Aug 10, 2004)

*Re: 8V FAQ (fox conv)*

first off by "type 2 or type 3" you mean mk1,mk2 (mark 2) and mk3, mk4, mk5? for jetta and golf its mk1,2,3,4,5. and yes ive heard by installing the mk3 front subframe on a mk2(or maybe just the longer control arms) and rear axle beam you can extend your stance. but i have not seen this in person yet and i know you need longer front axles to make the longer control arms work.


_Modified by Aurora_GL at 1:12 PM 9-28-2007_


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## short track (Dec 11, 2003)

yeah, im from vermont, we just say type 1,2,3,... i know its mk what ever. thanks for the help


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## short track (Dec 11, 2003)

*Re: BMW Airflow Meter Swap How To: (Digiracer)*

how do i know the bmw engine is a 'k' series engine, to pull the maf off of ?


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## short track (Dec 11, 2003)

*Re: 8V FAQ (newbluevw)*

yeah, but the lines of the mk2 are hotter..... everyone has an mk 3 and up


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

*Re: (kamikazevw15)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kamikazevw15* »_can i put a 1.8 8v haed on a 1.6?

Can someone Chime in on this?
I would also like to know what is necessary to put a 1.8L Solid lifter head on a 1.6L - 1.7L block.
IIRC, it is necessary to plug up one or two oil drains in the 1.8L head. But I would like an expert to confirm...


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## ABA Scirocco (May 30, 2001)

*Re: (Jettaboy1884)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jettaboy1884* »_
Can someone Chime in on this?
I would also like to know what is necessary to put a 1.8L Solid lifter head on a 1.6L - 1.7L block.
IIRC, it is necessary to plug up one or two oil drains in the 1.8L head. But I would like an expert to confirm...

Here you go, a 1.8L head prepped for a 1.6/1.7L block, click on the picture for more detail.


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## slow69beetle (Feb 16, 2006)

At idle what is the timing suppose tp be at?


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## Aurora_GL (Aug 10, 2004)

*Re: (slow69beetle)*

it depends what engine you have. digi II has to be set at 2500 i belive.


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## slow69beetle (Feb 16, 2006)

*Re: (Aurora_GL)*

my car idles at 800rpm and at idle it is 16 degrees before top dead center


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## Aurora_GL (Aug 10, 2004)

*Re: (slow69beetle)*

rpm is good, but timming sounds too advanced. usully not more then 12* btdc i am not an expert on that. have a book on your car? is it the car in your sig?


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## slow69beetle (Feb 16, 2006)

I have the bentley but its really no help at this point. Yes its a 95 golf gl


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## Aurora_GL (Aug 10, 2004)

*Re: (slow69beetle)*

you would be better off posting a a new help thread, this thread is for info not qeustions.


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## h00ters CEO (Jan 24, 2008)

*Re: (slow69beetle)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slow69beetle* »_my car idles at 800rpm and at idle it is 16 degrees before top dead center

GOD i hope your talking about ignition timing








but still too much, i was told 12 degrees advance for ignition is prime for CIS-E cars. 


_Modified by h00ters CEO at 10:28 AM 1-27-2008_


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## ronnie224 (Mar 3, 2008)

*Re: A/C Removal on power steering equipped cars!!! (H2091)*

I had a question for you I asked Geroge of Toywagen and this was his response to using a stock non-ac pulley on a 90 jetta.... obviously there is a discrepancy of what will work......any further info you can offer will be helpful thanks 
If you use the stock non-ac pulley you need to change the other pulleys as well(crank). My pulley lines up the belt with the crank pulley that is there already. All you have to do to change it over is change the alt pulley and belt.


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## ronnie224 (Mar 3, 2008)

*Re: A/C Removal on power steering equipped cars!!! (mmmm-sushi)*

Apparently this does not work on Jettas if your looking for a long term solution


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## 4ePikanini (Aug 29, 2007)

*Re: (Aurora_GL)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Aurora_GL* »_a cam with a *G* stamped on it does not make it the G-grind solid lifter cam that people rave abt. most 8v cams have that G stamp. 

is this the same cus mine is stock standard from the factory



_Modified by fourie_marius at 10:14 AM 6-12-2009_


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## Aurora_GL (Aug 10, 2004)

*Re: (fourie_marius)*

pretty sure the g grind is gti solid lifter only, if it ahs the big G on it its probobly not the Gti cam.


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## mk2gtilover (Dec 5, 2007)

*Re: (Aurora_GL)*

my 92 gti 8v hydraulic cam has a G stamped on it, i was under the impression that 90-92 gti came with that cam stock, the biggest one of the mk2's.


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## deslizador (Aug 31, 2005)

*Re: (fourie_marius)*

Great Pic. 
Add Pic of my cam and original cam.







[/URL]


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## SpoolinJetta18T (Jul 30, 2004)

i have a 1988 cabrio how can i tell if i have a hydro or solid lifters i want to buy a cam and is asking me if its hydro or solid.


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## 4ePikanini (Aug 29, 2007)

*Re: (SpoolinJetta18T)*

check the head
4 caps = hydro
5 caps = solid


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## SpoolinJetta18T (Jul 30, 2004)

*Re: (fourie_marius)*


_Quote, originally posted by *fourie_marius* »_check the head
4 caps = hydro
5 caps = solid

what do you mean caps? where are they located?


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## 4ePikanini (Aug 29, 2007)

*Re: (SpoolinJetta18T)*

the caps that keeps the cam connected to the head. check out mine. it is a hydro cus there is 4 caps



_Modified by fourie_marius at 10:15 AM 6-12-2009_


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## SpoolinJetta18T (Jul 30, 2004)

oh ok thank you we all learn something new every day... thank you


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## m_shea (Dec 23, 2004)

*Re: 8V FAQ (Coolwhite Fox)*

help please.
i purchased a 90 cabriolet back in november. at the time it was running fine but needed a new tranny. i was able to drive it up onto the dolly though when i bought it. it sat over the winter and in the spring i did the tranny swap plus some other upgrades to the brakes and suspension. nothing though to the engine. now i can't get it to run. it tries to fire but it isn't getting any fuel. the pump is working fine. i disconnected the fuel line to the rail and had a friend hit the key and gas squirted out so that's fine. i've got good spark to all the plugs but it appears that the electric fuel injectors aren't working. any ideas on what could be causing them not to receive a signal? i'd appreciate any help. [email protected]
thanks
mike


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## VR6x (Jul 16, 2005)

*Re: 8V FAQ (m_shea)*

Gas mileage on the 1.8L 8v GTI's? Looking to pick one up, currently have a 2000 lexus es300 that gets round 20mpg :-( such a hog. Might consider turboing a 8v my buddy has. Thanks for your help and hopefully I become a Vdubber soon enough!


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## KleanVdub (Jul 4, 2008)

Question..What will replacing my stock 1.8L cam with a 2.0 L cam do? Hp? etc... pro's and con's


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## 4ePikanini (Aug 29, 2007)

*Re: (KleanVdub)*

lots of info on 8v's spec and technical info here
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3958581
and diagnostics here
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3963112
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## dogzila22 (Apr 1, 2008)

I have got scirocco cam with stamp on it N, what N means? is N better than G? help please


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## SimonWagen (Oct 18, 2008)

if i have a 1.6 8v gas engine, can i turned into a 16v??? a friend of mine is selling the 16v head from a scirocco 1.8..... i really appreciate if you can help me with that info...


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## davebugs (Jun 25, 2005)

I'm looking for a 1.8 8v timing belt procedure for a 89 Golf 1.8 auto. First link in this FAQ doesn't work and I didn't do well searching.
I found an excellent procedure for the 2.0 here but now I need a 1.8.
Recommendations/links please.
Thanks,
Dave


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## ABA Scirocco (May 30, 2001)

*Re: (davebugs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *davebugs* »_
I found an excellent procedure for the 2.0 here but now I need a 1.8.


It's the same procedure.


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## davebugs (Jun 25, 2005)

*Re: (ABA Scirocco)*

Thanks for the response. 
In the meantime I had found this link in another thread that was helpful:
http://www.vwgolfmk1.org.uk/mo...art=0
I'm almost done. Just borrowed the tensioner tool to complete the job.
Dave


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## Mean 'n Green86 (Dec 17, 2006)

*Re: (davebugs)*

wow what a great forum. i have a question.i have a 1.8 8v CIS-E engine. i originally wanted to build a jh head with 270 cam, autotech valve springs, techtonicts header, all on a 2.0 block.
i have recently been told that i can put all my goodies into a stock 2.0 crossflow engine and wont have to do any wiring. is this true??????


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

*Re: (Mean 'n Green86)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Mean ’n Green86* »_wow what a great forum. i have a question.i have a 1.8 8v CIS-E engine. i originally wanted to build a jh head with 270 cam, autotech valve springs, techtonicts header, all on a 2.0 block.
i have recently been told that i can put all my goodies into a stock 2.0 crossflow engine and wont have to do any wiring. is this true??????

If you are going to stick with the JH head (or any counterflow head with CIS) then you won't have to do any extra wiring. The fuel injectors, intake manifold, and related plumbing will stay the same if you swap a 2.0L block underneath.
However, if you are looking to use the 2.0L block with it's crossflow head, then there will be several modifications necessary. Most people that continue to use the CIS injection do not use the crossflow head, due to the amount of modifications needed. In the end, it's a lot of work for virtually no gain.


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## Mean 'n Green86 (Dec 17, 2006)

*Re: (Jettaboy1884)*

thank you sir thats all i needed to hear







i'm sticking with the counterflow then head on the 2.0 block


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## squirrl651 (Mar 30, 2009)

i have a 1985 golf 2 door 8v motor the car wont start i was told that it could be the ignition switch so i changed all that everything turs on when i turn the key but the car wont start and the heater and the stereo wont turn off when i take the key ou...can enyone help with this problem


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## osirisipath (Jun 20, 2009)

seat belt?


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## The_Hamster (Jul 31, 2000)

*Re: (osirisipath)*

This thread is not being used properly. Please post only information (ANSWERS) to question that are commonly asked. If you have question, search for it first, then if you cannot find a valid answer start a new thread in the appropriate forum. 
Locked pending cleanup/revision.


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