# Stock Hitch Wiring Install



## Steveaut (Sep 16, 2010)

Now that I have the hitch installed, I am looking for advice on the installation of the stock wiring that came with the vehicle. The instructions are a joke. 

Has anyone installed the stock hitch wiring? If so, can you give me any advice on that install? 

Thanks, steve


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## firebird540 (Jul 4, 2011)

Hi, 
do you have the original wiring install instruction as a pdf or hard copy print out? 
If pdf coud you email me them - I am looking for them. 

I bought a used SEL Premium with trailer package option but hitch is not installed. 
I did not get any wiring from the previous owner - what is the part number? 

thanks


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## 58kafer (Jun 27, 2007)

firebird540 said:


> Hi,
> do you have the original wiring install instruction as a pdf or hard copy print out?
> If pdf coud you email me them - I am looking for them.
> 
> ...


 I would buy the Curt wiring harness. Its plug n play with the tail light plugs. Look up a curt hitch on eBay and you'll find the harness. It's 2011 we shouldn't be hacking wiring for a trailer harness. Poor design in my eyes. I want to trailer my boat so bad but can't bring myself to getting the Routan in salt water.


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## Steveaut (Sep 16, 2010)

If you do not have the stock wiring, then I agree that you should buy a different plug and play type. The stock requires cutting the existing wires and installing. I will use the stock because I have it, but if I didn't I would buy a different plug and play type. Althought, I would avoid the ones that have you run a wire up to the battery. I don't like the idea of adding another wire up to the battery and routing it around the frame, etcetera. 

You know what I don't get, my Journey had a stock hitch wiring that I had to install. It was completely plug and play, had good instructions, and was easy to do in the parking lot when I bought a trailer. You just took off the light covers and plugged it in on both sides. I don't understand how one Chrysler product gets the better harness and the other doesn't.


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## firebird540 (Jul 4, 2011)

@Steveaut, 

do you have the original wiring install instruction as a pdf or hard copy print out? 
If pdf coud you email me them - I am looking for them. 

Or do you have part or document number that I can see if I can find it for download on the net. 

thx 
firebird540


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## Steveaut (Sep 16, 2010)

firebird540 said:


> @Steveaut,
> 
> do you have the original wiring install instruction as a pdf or hard copy print out?
> If pdf coud you email me them - I am looking for them.
> ...


 I do have the original wiring install instruction at home in a droor. I will try to remember to get it out tonight and scan it for you. I think I can post it on here. I will try to do that.


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## Steveaut (Sep 16, 2010)

I installed the stock trailer harness on Saturday. While the instructions are not the best, the install is very easy. Easier than my Journey was. Here they are:

1. Remove both tail lights by removing the two screws.
2. Pull off the tail lights, they have metal tabs that hold them in so you have to pull a little to get them to pop out.
3. Starting at the left, find the end of the harness that says left and pug it into the vehicle harness and then into the tail light.
4. Drop the harness down the tail light hole to the ground.
5. Reinstall the left tail light.
6. Route the harness behind the bumper tabs/brackets behind the bumper. There are four. Wait until you are done with the complete install, then you will zip tie the harness out of the way.
7. Run the right side harness up the right tail light hole.
8. Connect the harness to the stock wiring and the tail light.
9. Reinstall the right tail light.
10. Zip tie the harness up out of the way. I noticed there were several sharp edges around the harness that should be avoided. I would suggest routing the harness up and away from all metal edges. Also, on the right side the harness will naturally sit on the exhaust. I made sure to get it lifted and tied out of the way of the muffler.
11. You have to do is buy a connector for the end of the harness. The stock harness does not come with a connector, instead its just loose wires. I bought one at walmart for $6. On the one I bought, and I suspect it is standard, the colors do not match the stock harness. For example, yellow goes with green, green with yellow, brown with black and white/violet with white. The instructions on the harness were correct on the colors so use that. Don't just match up the colors.
12. Finally, I used velcro to secure the connector around the hitch so it would not fall to the ground and scrape. 

It works great and was very easy to install. I was going to buy a different harness, but I am actually glad I didn't.


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## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

58kafer said:


> I want to trailer my boat so bad but can't bring myself to getting the Routan in salt water.


With the Overwhelming amount of rust all over my 2009, i dread the thought of getting this thing anywhere near the beach. Ill trailer just the bikes.


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## RobMan8023 (Jul 17, 2002)

For the benefit of some future user who wants the install instructions, I posted them here:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...Instructions-PDF-JPEG&p=75037012#post75037012


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## routan2010se (Jun 17, 2013)

Does anyone know the part number for the 7 pin wiring harness? Does it exist?

All the after market ones are 4 pin, I am interested in doing surge brakes.

or is the 4 pin sufficient. I thought it was turn/brake and running lights on 4 pin only.


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## georgef61 (May 16, 2011)

routan2010se said:


> Does anyone know the part number for the 7 pin wiring harness? Does it exist?.


"Trailer Tow Wiring Harness 7 Way" VW Part # 7B0055200 or MOPAR Part # 82210857AC.

George


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## 95GLX (Dec 13, 1999)

4 pin is sufficient for surge brakes unless you have a reverse locking solenoid on the trailer to prevent the brakes from locking up when reversing.


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## routan2010se (Jun 17, 2013)

Thanks guys!

For those interested, here is the PDF for the mopar part install.

http://moparcarparts.com/instructions/82210857AC.pdf

Looks like it goes right into the TIP Module.


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## routan2010se (Jun 17, 2013)

Just did mine today (Factory wiring harness), took about 2 hours to solder it in the tip module (took 2 hours before when I ran the wire to the rear)

Only tip I can give others it the last 2 of the 4 wires to solder, are green and yellow, and on my car they tied into white/yellow for the green wire and white/green for the yellow wire, seemed counter intuitive so I wasted an hour making sure that it was correct before I soldered it.

Works great, I now have the factory harness with Brake Controller, Reverse, Trailer Lights, turns signals.


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## wely (Feb 22, 2015)

routan2010se said:


> Just did mine today (Factory wiring harness), took about 2 hours to solder it in the tip module (took 2 hours before when I ran the wire to the rear)
> 
> Only tip I can give others it the last 2 of the 4 wires to solder, are green and yellow, and on my car they tied into white/yellow for the green wire and white/green for the yellow wire, seemed counter intuitive so I wasted an hour making sure that it was correct before I soldered it.
> 
> Works great, I now have the factory harness with Brake Controller, Reverse, Trailer Lights, turns signals.


Hi there,

I finally found the info I was looking for , I bought a 2010 SE/Res without the trailer package, I installed class iii U-Haul hitch just fine but need to install e-brake for my pup camper.
no one seem to know about this harness at the VW dealer (Montreal), my garage recommended to use Tekonsha Voyager Trailer Brake Controller but I don't want to play with the electric wires and void my extended warranty.
have you tested the e-brake you installed with a trailer? would you be able to post some pictures on where to splice them or wiring color code?
Any help would be highly appreciated.


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## routan2010se (Jun 17, 2013)

It has been a slow project on the car, I still need to install my oil cooler, and the brake controller.

Not sure what they mean, this harness was offered by VW/Chrysler, so they should know about it, most likely don't care as these cars were still born for the most part.

The only wire I have left is the blue wire, which goes back to the harness from the brake controller. So even with this harness, you still need to tap fused power, and the brake pedal switch.










If you have any soldering skills, it is not that hard.

Worst part is you have to pull the TIPM apart, and need to carefully splice the wires. Any decent electrical auto place can do it to, however I know I do 100% better job than 99% of the places, and no vampire clips for me that will fail.


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## wely (Feb 22, 2015)

Thanks Man,
I already installed the brake controller and the original Chrysler wiring using your advice on the reverse wires at the TIPM.

I am not sure about the oil cooler yet as I see no different on the factory built in towing and non towing in the cooler level.


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## routan2010se (Jun 17, 2013)

wely said:


> Thanks Man,
> I already installed the brake controller and the original Chrysler wiring using your advice on the reverse wires at the TIPM.
> 
> I am not sure about the oil cooler yet as I see no different on the factory built in towing and non towing in the cooler level.


Glad to hear I cold help.

I don't recall the numbers, but if you have the engine oil cooler installed, you go from 1800lbs to 3800lbs I think, also need the nivomat shocks in the rear, which I installed a set that do the same things, self leveling from monroe

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-Adjusting-Shock-Absorbers-Part-58648-Install

Pretty much the only other difference with the tow package is the engine oil cooler.


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