# DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensioner pulley bearing



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

I had some free time and all the necessary pics, so I put this little DIY together. Hope it's useful to someone.









*REMOVING A VR6 SERPENTINE BELT TENSIONER AND LUBRICATING THE TENSIONER PULLEY BEARING*
The following outlines the procedure for removing the serpentine belt tensioner from a VR6 engine and lubricating the tensioner pulley bearing. It is common for the bearing in the pulley to dry out, causing the bearing to become very noisy when the engine is running and eventually, to fail. The lubrication of the bearing as preventative maintenance or at the first sign of noise can significantly extend the lifetime of the tensioner pulley. Since VW does not sell the pulley separately, lubricating the bearing with a few cents worth of grease before bearing failure can prevent you from having to (1) purchase a whole new OEM tensioner unit for $100-200 (depending on where you buy it from), (2) purchase an aftermarket pulley (such as the Adrenalin version) for $50-100 or (3) buying a new bearing and spending the time and/or $$$ to install it in the existing pulley.
The procedure below was based on a '99.5 MKIV Jetta GLS 12v VR6. The steps for accessing the tensioner unit may/will be different on other model VR6s (for example, I believe the airbox must be removed on a MKIII VR6), but the procedure for disassembling the tensioner and lubricating the pulley bearing should be the same. 
Please do these procedures at your own risk and be ready to make small adjustments while doing them. Also, please be observant while removing parts so that they back together correctly.
The procedure below is very simple and should take around a half an hour to perform.
The tools/parts needed to perform the procedures are:
1) T30 Torx driver
2) M8x**x1.25 pitch bolt, where ** is the length in mm (available at Home Depot, Lowe's or other hardware stores). I have not specified a length since it varies depending on the model year/version VR6 you have.
2) 13mm socket or wrench
3) 15mm socket or wrench
4) Small screwdriver
5) High-temp wheel bearing grease or other suitable lubricant
6) 6mm hex wrench or socket (if the bolts on your VR removed in Step 5 are this type)

____________________________________________________________________
*REMOVING THE SERPENTINE BELT TENSIONER* 
1. The serpentine belt tensioner is located on the passenger's side of the engine, as indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below.









2. Remove the long cover piece on the passenger's side of the engine to reveal the tensioner. To do this, remove the two (2) T30 Torx screws (indicated by the yellow arrows in the picture below) and carefully pull upward on the cover piece.









3. The serpentine belt tensioner is indicted by the yellow arrow in the picture below. The tensioner pulley which applies force to the serpentine belt is indicated by the red arrow. 









4. To remove the tension from the serpentine belt, thread a M8x**x1.25 pitch bolt into the threaded hole in the top of the tensioner unit (as indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below) and turn using a 13mm socket or wrench until the serpentine belt is loose. ** is the length of the bolt in mm and will depend on the model year/version VR6 you have. Basically, you need a bolt that is long enough to fully remove the belt tension before the bolt head threads in completely, but is short enough to not interfere with the fuel lines overhead (red arrows in picture below). On my '99.5 VR6 a 60mm bolt works perfectly, however, on my friend's '00 VR6 the same bolt is too long. I recommend that you purchase a few bolts with different lengths and return the ones that don't work.









5. Once the belt tension has been removed, remove the tensioner unit from the engine by removing the three (3) 13mm bolts indicated by the yellow arrows in the picture below (Note: On some cars, these bolts will be 6mm hex instead). When the three bolts are out, slide the serpentine belt towards the passenger's side of the car and off of the tensioner pulley. You should now be able to remove the tensioner unit from the engine.









*NOTE: If you do not plan on lubricating the pulley bearing and reinstalling the tensioner back onto the engine right away, I recommend that you remove the M8 tension-release bolt to release the extra tension from the spring inside the tensioner. While not likely, it's possible that the spring may be damaged or deformed if it sits for too long in an over-tensioned state. If you do remove the tension, make sure to thread the M8 bolt back into the tensioner and reapply tension to the spring before reinstalling the tensioner onto the engine. If you don't, you will not be able to get the serpentine belt back onto the tensioner pulley.* 

*LUBRICATING THE TENSIONER PULLEY BEARING*
6. The picture below shows the three main parts of the tensioner unit - the main body, the spring-loaded arm and the idler pulley.









7. Remove the pulley from the tensioner arm by removing the 15mm bolt indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below (shows the bolt partly removed). *NOTE: THE BOLT IS REVERSE THREAD. TURN IT CLOCKWISE TO REMOVE!!!* 









8. The picture below shows the pulley removed from the tensioner unit. Note that there is a pulley guard (top center of picture) that is used between the bolt and pulley. 









9. Use a small screwdriver to remove the seals from each side of the pulley bearing, as shown in the picture below. To do this, insert the screwdriver between the seal and inner race and VERY CAREFULLY pry the seal upward. Make sure you do not damage the rubber coating on the seal or it may not stay in place when reinstalled.









10. The picture below shows the tensioner pulley with both bearing seals removed.









11. Pack each side of the bearing with some high temp. wheel bearing grease or another suitable lubricant, as shown in the picture below. You can also add a drop or two of oil to thin out the grease if it's very thick.









12. The grease that I used is shown in the picture below. I purchased it at either Home Depot or Lowe's (can't remember) for around $3-4.









13. Once the bearing has been packed with grease, carefully reinstall the bearing seals. MAKE SURE THAT THE SEALS ARE INSTALLED FULLY OR THEY WILL WORK THEMSELVES LOOSE AND WEAR AGAINST THE PULLEY GUARD OR TENSIONER ARM WHILE THE PULLEY SPINS.
14. Reinstall the pulley onto the tensioner unit and then reinstall the tensioner unit back onto the engine by following steps 2-8 in reverse. Remember that the pulley bolt is REVERSE THREAD - turn it counter-clockwise to tighten. If you have a torque wrench, the torque spec for the tensioner-to-engine bolts are 18 ft-lbs. I could not find the torque spec for the pulley-to-tensioner bolt, but 30 ft-lbs should be appropriate.
15. After reapplying tension to the serpentine belt and BEFORE starting the engine, check to see that the belt is properly positioned on ALL of the pulleys that it contacts.

Let me know if you have any questions.

*EDIT (3/5/04):* For those interested in replacing the serpentine belt, the illustration below shows how to route the belt around the various accessory pulleys.








_*As always, do this procedure at your own risk. I am not responsible for any mistakes that you make.*_



_Modified by VgRt6 at 7:40 AM 5-9-2005_


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## Point_Blank (Oct 17, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*









My car does not have this bolt, is this a bad thing


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## RadoBoi (Jul 31, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

very nice...Will be doing this tommarrow thanks to you...I love free maintinence.


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## ghostrider (Dec 15, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Point_Blank)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Point_Blank* »_My car does not have this bolt, is this a bad thing

i guess you could say that bolts not "oem"
you only put a bolt in there when you want to remove the belt...


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Point_Blank)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Point_Blank* »_








My car does not have this bolt, is this a bad thing

You need to buy it. I mentioned in the DIY that you can get it at Home Depot, Lowes or other hardware-type stores for around $0.50.


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## GTO1 (Jan 27, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

I had this very procedure done today at a dealership in florida after my belt started going haywire, and since i am on vacation, didnt have that much of a choice. $350... yeah, kinda pissed right now. Good write up though.


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## Goobery69 (Nov 22, 1999)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (GTO1)*

Awesome thanks! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## rocket vr6 (May 6, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Goobery69)*

Good stuff. Add this to the FAQ/DIY post????????????







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Brecken (Sep 4, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (rocket vr6)*

mines makin all kinds of friggin noise...almost like a supercharger















anyway i need to prelace the belt...so i'll hit this while im there. awesome post! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Manic_VR (Aug 20, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Brecken)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## kahulaVR6 (Jan 11, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

yeah mine was makin the worst noise, bought some WD-40 and pretty much emptied the bottle on it and the pulleys w/o taking out the tensioner, it didn't do anything at first, but then by the second day it was gone, and it hasn't reared it's ugly head yet. Will keep posted


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## phatvr6 (Nov 13, 2001)

Just change the bearing, they're only £5.


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## AIIIVentoVR6 (Sep 30, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Point_Blank)*

yYu can remove and use one of the three bolt holding the tesioner on to losen tension.


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## vivagarcia (Feb 19, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Vortex at its finest. VgRt6, you're the man.


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## sikasssvr6 (Nov 8, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

mine makes a funky screaching right when i crank it up ,but only for about 2 seconds,then goes away,sounds kinda like a belt i guess,could it be this bearing?


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (AIIIVentoVR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AIIIVentoVR6* »_yYu can remove and use one of the three bolt holding the tesioner on to losen tension.

On some VR6s you can't. I tried this on my '99.5 and my friend's '00 and the bolt is too short.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (phatvr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *phatvr6* »_Just change the bearing, they're only £5.

You can do this, but it's a lot easier and cheaper to lube the bearing instead of tracking down a replacement bearing and installing it. I'm saving the bearing replacement until it NEEDS to be replaced. A dry bearing doesn't need to be replaced, it just needs to be lubed.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (sikasssvr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sikasssvr6* »_mine makes a funky screaching right when i crank it up ,but only for about 2 seconds,then goes away,sounds kinda like a belt i guess,could it be this bearing?

It could be this bearing. Give the lubing a try and see if it goes away. If not, check your water pump recently. 
I lubed my tensioner pulley bearing 16k miles ago and it's been quiet since. Last week, I heard the noise again and figured that the bearing was dry ... again. I removed the tensioner and relubed the bearing twice ... it didn't help. I though maybe the bearing was fried and finally needed to be replaced. That was until my water pump bearing failed soon after. The tensioner bearing is fine - the relubing actually lasts for quite a lot of miles. Now I just ahve to change the stupid water pump! That's the next DIY.


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## phatvr6 (Nov 13, 2001)

*Re: (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_
You can do this, but it's a lot easier and cheaper to lube the bearing instead of tracking down a replacement bearing and installing it. I'm saving the bearing replacement until it NEEDS to be replaced. A dry bearing doesn't need to be replaced, it just needs to be lubed.

and how long do you think the lube is going to stay in there now you've prised the seal off???
I've got the number for the SKF bearing, I've been meaning to post it up for some time now but I keep forgetting.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (phatvr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *phatvr6* »_and how long do you think the lube is going to stay in there now you've prised the seal off???

Mine's lasted 16k miles so far and is still good. Who knows. The seals aren't that great anyway. I don't think removing them has made them any worse. If the noise comes back relatively quickly after relubing then maybe it's time to replace the bearing.

_Quote, originally posted by *phatvr6* »_I've got the number for the SKF bearing, I've been meaning to post it up for some time now but I keep forgetting.

Definitely post the number.







At least that would give people the option of doing either one. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

Yea taking the seal out is not the problem and trailer bearing greae is ok but I would sugjest a HIGH end Redline grease for very high speed bearings.


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## jcorallo (Jan 17, 2001)

*Re: (Scooter98144)*

Good write up, nice pics - prob very helpful if you are really stuck for a bearing.
However, if you can hear the bearing, its dead - fact. No amount of greasing is going to make it better - the damage is done - replace.
The cost of the grease you have there is prob more than the bearing costs...!








Jules


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## DasoGTI (Nov 21, 2001)

*Re: (jcorallo)*

Nice one Gary! I'm gonna have to do this soon too... But first on the list is taking appart the starter and cleaning it out. Mine's starting to get stuck for a few seconds after initial start up...
I'll make a write up for that as well.
-Dom.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (jcorallo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jcorallo* »_Good write up, nice pics - prob very helpful if you are really stuck for a bearing.
However, if you can hear the bearing, its dead - fact. No amount of greasing is going to make it better - the damage is done - replace.
The cost of the grease you have there is prob more than the bearing costs...!








Jules

It makes sense that the bearing is done when it starts to make noise, but if you catch it early it may be OK. My bearing was making a ridiculous amount of noise before I repacked it and has been silent ever since (16k miles). The pulley doesn't wobble one bit and spins ery smoothly.
Repacking the bearing will not cure everyone's problem, but is a good place to start.
The grease was extremely cheap - only a few dollars. I doubt I could get a bearing around me as cheap.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (Scooter98144)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Scooter98144* »_Yea taking the seal out is not the problem and trailer bearing greae is ok but I would sugjest a HIGH end Redline grease for very high speed bearings. 

Yeah, that grease would be optimal, but is probably not necessary. When I purchased the trailer bearing grease, I compared it to a bunch of others, including some synthetics. The trailer bearing grease had the best high temp numbers and I doubt the bearing will see temps anywhere near the grease's limits.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (DasoGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DasoGTI* »_Nice one Gary! I'm gonna have to do this soon too... But first on the list is taking appart the starter and cleaning it out. Mine's starting to get stuck for a few seconds after initial start up...
I'll make a write up for that as well.
-Dom.

Nice! Can't wait to see it.


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## corpsedub (Aug 3, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

exellent writeup


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## maxxam (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

Excellent write up, wish there were more like these. Thanks, much appreciated http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Fantomasz (Aug 15, 2001)

*Re: (maxxam)*

it's possible to remove puley without removing tensioner?
puley bolt is on outside the puley


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## kevwithoutacorrado (Jun 9, 2000)

*Re: (Fantomasz)*

dry bearings in anything make noise, but are not always dead.


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## Evolution Marine (Sep 18, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

VgRt6 - Thanks for the post. We all appreciate the time and effort this kind of post takes and I am sure it will be referred to for many years to come. BTW I hope this post makes it into the FAQ VR6 post. - Thanks again - Bob


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## James 93SLC (Sep 27, 2000)

*Re: (phatvr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *phatvr6* »_
and how long do you think the lube is going to stay in there now you've prised the seal off???

He didn't leave the seals off. You need to reinstall them, and if you are careful, they will seal just the same. I've worked with lots of sealed bearings and removing and reinstalling seals is a no brainer.
Good writeup Gary http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (James 93SLC)*


_Quote, originally posted by *James 93SLC* »_
He didn't leave the seals off. You need to reinstall them, and if you are careful, they will seal just the same.

Exactly. See step 13.


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## zealot.us (Dec 6, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Thanks again for the great tutorial. The tensioner on mine (2000 Jetta) required a 40mm long bolt to take all the tension off. Now it will be going up for sale (totally had it with the POS), it's really unbelievable the things that have gone wrong with a car that has 38k miles on it. I shall never return to the VW's. 
Great forum you got here though.


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## RadoBoi (Jul 31, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (zealot.us)*

Ok my dad works in a machine shop and hes gonna get me a new bearing for free...how do you get the bearing out of the pully? Thats my question. Thanks!


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## BlauSlc92 (Nov 9, 2000)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (RadoBoi)*

Bump for a great write up!


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## Fantomasz (Aug 15, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (BlauSlc92)*

_Modified by Fantomasz at 5:02 PM 12-13-2003_


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## thehoj (Sep 22, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

AWESOME!!
I've been waiting for a good write-up like this. Thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## thehoj (Sep 22, 2001)

*Re: (phatvr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *phatvr6* »_
and how long do you think the lube is going to stay in there now you've prised the seal off???
I've got the number for the SKF bearing, I've been meaning to post it up for some time now but I keep forgetting.

Please post number.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (RadoBoi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RadoBoi* »_Ok my dad works in a machine shop and hes gonna get me a new bearing for free...how do you get the bearing out of the pully? Thats my question. Thanks!

I'm not positive, but most likely you should be able to just push the old one out and press the new one in (with a press, of course). There may be a little lip on one side to keep the bearing in place. Check that out before attempting to remove the old bearing.


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## RadoBoi (Jul 31, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Yea I looked and I can't really tell if there is a lip or not...I would like to try but breaking the pully could be pretty bad...If anyone has done this please chime in!


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (RadoBoi)*

I'd compare the diameter of the new bearing with the diameter of the opening in the pulley (on both sides). If they're the same, then there's probably no lip. Also, if opening on both sides of the pulley is the same then that's probably another indicator there's no lip. Of course, this is assuming that the original and new bearing have the same outer diameter.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Fantomasz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Fantomasz* »_BUMP









Why a pic of a dirty throttle body?


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## RadoBoi (Jul 31, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_I'd compare the diameter of the new bearing with the diameter of the opening in the pulley (on both sides). If they're the same, then there's probably no lip. Also, if opening on both sides of the pulley is the same then that's probably another indicator there's no lip. Of course, this is assuming that the original and new bearing have the same outer diameter.

yea thats what I was planning on, I'll let ya know.
Yea why the dirty throttle body?


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## RadoBoi (Jul 31, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (RadoBoi)*

Ok I got the new bearing andthe lip is very minimal...I tryed to press the old bearing out but it wouldnt budge...I wasnt really pushing that hard though because I didnt wanna break the pully...hmmm


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (RadoBoi)*

Maybe you could Dremel the lip off on one side, just to be safe. After that, as long as the pulley area just adjacent to the outside of the bearing is supported, it should survive the pressing in/pressing out process. How about soaking the pulley in some WD40 or other penetrating lube like PB Blaster? That's might help the bearing come out easier.


_Modified by VgRt6 at 7:52 PM 12-8-2003_


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## Fantomasz (Aug 15, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_
Why a pic of a dirty throttle body?









hahaha wrong topic








You have to many DIY


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## RadoBoi (Jul 31, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_Maybe you could Dremel the lip off on one side, just to be safe. After that, as long as the pulley area just adjacent to the outside of the bearing is supported, it should survive the pressing in/pressing out process. How about soaking the pulley in some WD40 or other penetrating lube like PB Blaster? That's might help the bearing come out easier.

_Modified by VgRt6 at 7:52 PM 12-8-2003_

yea I was thinking about that but Im not the kinda of person that likes to go first...I think I will wait for my bearing to start to make noise before I will attempt that...If it ain't broke don't fix it. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Fantomasz (Aug 15, 2001)

*Re: (Fantomasz)*

it's possible to remove puley without removing tensioner?


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (Fantomasz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Fantomasz* »_it's possible to remove puley without removing tensioner?


Yes you can. It's more fun to take the whole tensioner off though.


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## drowningman (Dec 27, 1999)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

I was all set to order a new tensioner until I saw this. Thanks for the DIY!








One question - should the bearing be degreased once the seals are out before repacking - with a parts washer or some suitable degreaser? It looked kind of gunky in there...


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## RadoBoi (Jul 31, 2003)

*Re: (drowningman)*

I degreased it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (drowningman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *drowningman* »_I was all set to order a new tensioner until I saw this. Thanks for the DIY!








One question - should the bearing be degreased once the seals are out before repacking - with a parts washer or some suitable degreaser? It looked kind of gunky in there...

It shouldn't hurt to degrease it, but make sure all of the degreaser is out before you repack the bearing with grease.


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## 6cylVWguy (Jun 14, 2000)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

Cool right up, I'm probably going to have to fiddle with the belt tensioner in the foreseeable future. Thanks!
Does it matter if the grease you use contains lithium? Or does it not really matter?


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (6cylVWguy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *6cylVWguy* »_Cool right up, I'm probably going to have to fiddle with the belt tensioner in the foreseeable future. Thanks!
Does it matter if the grease you use contains lithium? Or does it not really matter?

I don't think it matters so much what the grease is made of, just make sure you use something that's good for bearings and for high temperatures. I'm not sure if lithium grease (white lithium?) falls into this category.


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## 6cylVWguy (Jun 14, 2000)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

Thanks! I'll have to look into the ratings on the lithium.


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## Fantomasz (Aug 15, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Today I remove pulley to take a look inside the bearing.I did not remove tensioner.I remove only pulley.I look inside and there was small amount of grease inside.I repack bearing but when I start my car for few minutes all grease escape from bearing.It takes few minutes.I remove pulley once again and all seals was in place.No damage on seals.I install pulley back on car and I still have little rattlle from pulley.Nothing big just little rattle Before install I check bearing and there was no free play or any damage to bearing.


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## fqi (Dec 14, 2003)

very good DIY
I need to change the belt on 95 passat vr6 and some noise, just starting to work on,
I have problem to remove the air filter botton box, any advice
Thanks
Cyrille


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (fqi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *fqi* »_very good DIY
I need to change the belt on 95 passat vr6 and some noise, just starting to work on,
I have problem to remove the air filter botton box, any advice
Thanks
Cyrille

What exactly is your problem? Is it that the air box is in the way or that you can't get the air box out?


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Fantomasz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Fantomasz* »_I repack bearing but when I start my car for few minutes all grease escape from bearing.

This happened with mine too. It's from putting too much grease in the bearing. You don't need that much. In fact, my picture in the DIY that shows the bearing repacked with grease shows way too much in there. Just put a little bit in and try and get it where the ball bearings actually contact the races.


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## fqi (Dec 14, 2003)

Yes, I like to get the air box out to replace damaged ribbed belt, i have grinding noise coming from belt tensioner or power steering pump


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## fqi (Dec 14, 2003)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

Good stuff, thanks
I have no problem to get belt and tensioner off,
now i need to buy new belt and pulley, where can i find good pulley http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## momoVR6 (Jul 11, 2002)

*Re: (fqi)*

Just did mine tonight on my MKIII, worked great. The bearing was starting to get a little noisy and now it's quite again. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
A couple of tips that I would like to add are...
1) Apply a little anti-seize to the threads of the bolt used for releasing tension. The tension on the aluminum threads from the bolt will wear them quickly, this is just a precaution.
2) It was very easy for me to remove the pulley without removing the tensioner from the car, so that step is not necessary.


----------



## G.SUS (Jul 8, 2003)

Ill DIY - Think cv moly grease would be alright?
Cheers!


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (G.SUS)*


_Quote, originally posted by *G.SUS* »_Ill DIY - Think cv moly grease would be alright?
Cheers!









Most likely any decent quality grease will be fine. Some will be better than others, but many differnt kinds should be more than sufficient.


----------



## snuffyboy3 (Aug 25, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

very cool...i will be tryin this today or tomorrow since my bearing has been makin noise on and off for some time...hopefully its not already shot...but i might as well give it a shot...... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif







good write-up...


----------



## yellowslc (Aug 29, 2000)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (snuffyboy3)*

6303 is the bearing #


----------



## GTIVR6PL (Nov 26, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (yellowslc)*

vgrt6,
How was it changing the serpantine?? was it a PITA, or was it easier then it looked, did anything get in the way?..... looks awful tight in there... prob. the engine covers though... j/w for when the time comes around, thanks


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (GTIVR6PL)*

It's tight, but it's not too hard getting the belt around all of the pulleys the correct way. The hardest part is getting it around the crank pulley since it's so low. It would help to drive the car up on ramps or put it on stands and then access the crank pulley from below. Depending on engine covers people have, it may requiring removing some and/or pushing others aside. For the MKIV, you 'd need to remove the center lower engine cover and then maybe push the passenger's side cover over a little bit.


----------



## GTIVR6PL (Nov 26, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

That doesent sound too bad. How long did it take you your first time?


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (GTIVR6PL)*

It should take about a half an hour tops. It's not very difficult.


----------



## GTIVR6PL (Nov 26, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

goodstuff, thanks AGAIN man lol


----------



## GTI451 (Oct 4, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (GTIVR6PL)*

Got the symptoms... thanks for the solution http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## roadbaron (Sep 5, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Just be careful don't put to much grease


----------



## vduber6er (Jan 18, 2000)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (roadbaron)*

Awesome write up! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif My car no longer squeaks around that area anymore. One thing I would suggest is to loosen the pulley screw while the whole tensioner is still attached to the car. Hard to hold the tensioner and unscrew at the same time when the unit is off the car.


----------



## Griswald (Jan 26, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Pulled into my parent's place with a terrible metal-on-metal sound from the engine. After pin-pointing where the noise was coming from I got on the Vortex and started looking up various threads. Found this one - Bingo! Thanks for the great walk-through on this fix. Sites and posts like this are what makes the Web so great. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Slipstream (Feb 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Griswald)*

Just to confirm, the loud, high-pitched noise that people are complaining of is almost a constant squeal/screech coming from that area? I had the car in to the dealership yesterday for something else, and they indicated that the belt and tensioner needed to be replaced. Just want to make sure I'm going after the right part. If so, muchas gracias on the detailed writeup!


----------



## Steev-1 (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Slipstream)*

*why isnt this nor any of your other great DIY writeups not at the top of the 12v page?*


----------



## f1forkvr6 (Jun 10, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Steev-1)*

Submit it. Directions are in the FAQ.


----------



## James 93SLC (Sep 27, 2000)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Steev-1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Steev-1* »_why isnt this nor any of your other great DIY writeups not at the top of the 12v page?

Because most of his DIY's deal with specific MarkIV fixes that are not VR6 related. This one and the soon to be announced Timing Chain DIY are the only 12V VR6 ones ....
Oh yeah, there are waterpump and throttle body DIY's that pertain to the VR. 
Ummmm many of them are in the FAQ










_Modified by James 93SLC at 5:09 PM 1-29-2004_


----------



## Steev-1 (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (James 93SLC)*

umm







many of them are







but many of them arent







neither is the writeup on the oxygen sensor.


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Steev-1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Steev-1* »_umm







many of them are







but many of them arent







neither is the writeup on the oxygen sensor.









A few are in the 12v DIY/FAQ, and most, if not all of them are in the MKIV DIY/FAQ. I usually notify EPilot when one of them is finished and he puts them in one or both of the forum's DIY/FAQ thread.


----------



## Steev-1 (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

oh that would explain why i was getting an eyeroll for a simple question. wasnt pointing a direct finger at anyone i was just thinking that something that attained 3 pages worth of good comment should be in the DIY/FAQ section.


----------



## 2.8turbo (Nov 25, 2003)

to late for me.. my tensioner pully completely melted off the bearing.. i was trying to figure what that noise was. so ihave to buy the whole assembly. do they sell the pulley by itself? where can i get it so i can rebuild the other one for spare....


----------



## B166eR - VW (Dec 11, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (sikasssvr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sikasssvr6* »_mine makes a funky screaching right when i crank it up ,but only for about 2 seconds,then goes away,sounds kinda like a belt i guess,could it be this bearing?

I think I have this same thing... I thought about posting a question to see what the heck this was... Not sure if it is my belt or tensioner but....
BTW, this is a great post... I am always looking for something to do on my car... This certainly will be one of them.... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## phatvr6 (Nov 13, 2001)

why re grease it when you can replace it?
http://the-corrado.net/forum/v...ight=
if it's been running with no grease in it, the bearing will be wrecked.


----------



## jbrams (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: (fqi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *fqi* »_very good DIY
I need to change the belt on 95 passat vr6 and some noise, just starting to work on,
I have problem to remove the air filter botton box, any advice
Thanks
Cyrille

I made a little, not nearly as complete or excellent, write up on changing the belt for a 1995 vr6:
DIY – Changing your Accessory Belt (on a 1995 Passat with a 2.8L VR6)


_Modified by jbrams at 2:01 PM 4-17-2004_


----------



## prooman (Feb 24, 1999)

*Re: (jbrams)*

just finished this on my 01 vr6 jetta...my belt was squeaking a little on start up, I squirted a little silicone spray directly on the belt and it the noise went away immediately leading me to believe it was the belt only....hardest part about changing belt is taking the tire off and loosening the plastic panel covering the pulleys in the wheel well....and then figuring out which way it goes....great thread!!!!


----------



## Tur-bo (Mar 23, 2004)

You wouldn't believe the trouble I went through to find a m8 x 1.25. But it was well worth it in the end. I call the bolt my "serp belt tool".


----------



## izzo (Mar 19, 2004)

*Re: (Tur-bo)*

only if we could find see the pictures.....!!?!?!


----------



## phatvr6 (Nov 13, 2001)

check in http://www.picturetrail.com/phatvr6 in "my new corrado" folder. some pics in there, just haven't had time to link them to the thread.


----------



## CuRide (Nov 30, 2001)

*Re: (phatvr6)*

Very nice write up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I just did mine but I went ahead and put a new tensioner in there instead... but the screetching noise at startup still there, so now I'll have to tackle the waterpump next







Oh well can't win everytime, but very good write up over all and it takes me a little more than half an hour







Thanks!


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Pics are back online!
They have been moved to my own webspace, so there shouldn't be any more problems with them not being available.








Gary


----------



## seank (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

does the serpentine belt on an mk3 go the same as the diagram for the mk4?


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (seank)*

It should.
Gary


----------



## Fantomasz (Aug 15, 2001)

*Re: (phatvr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *phatvr6* »_check in http://www.picturetrail.com/phatvr6 in "my new corrado" folder. some pics in there, just haven't had time to link them to the thread.

what size bearing for puley? where to find in US?
I just put Your pics here



































_Modified by Fantomasz at 7:49 PM 5-28-2004_


----------



## 1SickWhtDub (Dec 1, 2002)

*Re: (Fantomasz)*

im gunna search for a new bearing, i have the # which is 6303 (hopefully theyre the same for MKIV and MKIII, and i also have the weird AF5 deal also


----------



## DubStyleVr6 (Mar 22, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (RadoBoi)*

Bump


----------



## phatvr6 (Nov 13, 2001)

SKF 6203-2RS1


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (phatvr6)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## BumblebVR6 (Nov 22, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (AIIIVentoVR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AIIIVentoVR6* »_yYu can remove and use one of the three bolt holding the tesioner on to losen tension.

Been there tried that, not long enough.
The part you need is N 100 270 01 from the dealer. $1.90. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 2razor2 (May 7, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Damn you just saved me 200$.. Where do I send the check?
The tensioner pulley has been squeeking for some time now. After I removed it, the bearing still spun freely (a little too freely), and after opening the seals, there was hardly any grease in there.
I packed some high-temp wheel bearing grease in, and the squeek is now gone, and now spins smooth as butter.
On my '01 GLX, I used a 40mm bolt which fit perfectly. A total cost of 0.48$, as I already had the grease. Thanks a bunch for the great writeup!


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## gehr (Jan 28, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (2razor2)*

Garys' the man......as always great write up







. Did mine last summer and 30k later all is good.....buy a $150 tensioner my as$ VW


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## GEETi (Jun 30, 1999)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Thanks! (My now NON-squeaking pulley thanks you, too!)


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## 1SickWhtDub (Dec 1, 2002)

*Re: (GEETi)*

i put a new bearing in mine, and the noise is still thereeeeeeeeee











































Gary u know what my problem is though lol


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## vduber6er (Jan 18, 2000)

*Re: (1SickWhtDub)*

are the other pulleys able to be taken out as well? I think my other pulleys are making noises.


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## xjronx (Oct 28, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

sweet diy


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## reddmanx (Mar 22, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (xjronx)*

once you start hearing the belt make a constant squeaking sound, get yourself a new belt, and possibly a new tensioner if needed. i got stuck 2 hours from home cause my belt was disentigrating. had to pay the stealership $360 and $60 for a tow.







the squeaking was only going on for 2 weeks, i thought it was just the humid weather. once you start hearing that warning signal, get it done ASAP.


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## alchu (Feb 2, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

hmmm
did this yesterday - i've been having intermittent squeeking from mine.
it was bone dry... seems to have worked without problems! But I think I may have repacked the bearing with too much grease. Should I take the pulley off again to check it?


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (alchu)*

Nah. The excess will fly out on its own. It did from mine and everything is still OK.








Gary


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## alchu (Feb 2, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 8VGOLF (Jan 20, 2003)

will this procedure work on a 93 corrado?? also i hear a squealing when i accelerate, could that be the serpentine belt tensioner bearing?? thx


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (8VGOLF)*

Yes and yes.
Gary


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## Roanzz (Apr 20, 2003)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

Word Gary... Real Nice DIY http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Put it to good use Laboring on my Car over Labor Day weekend. Lubed up the tensioner pulley and changed the water pump... Used this DIY in conjunction with your water pump DIY and another by izzo i think???? Well anyway, they both got done, My CAH no longer leaks coolant on long drives and the lessened load (dry tensioner pulley and old dragging water pump) on the crank pulley means my car pulls a little bit better.
Gracias and TTT


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (Roanzz)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








Gary


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## 2fastCorrados (Jul 22, 2001)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

this better be added to the faqs..... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (2fastCorrados)*

I believe it's been in there for a while.









Gary


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## Pfeil (Apr 14, 2003)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

i did this as well, and the squealing persisted. it only squeals at idle, and once the engine is thoroughly heat-soaked it stops.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (Pfeil)*

Are you sure it's the tensioner pulley and not one of the other accessory pullies?
Gary


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## Pfeil (Apr 14, 2003)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

no. i wasn't aware that others were prone to squeakage.


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## dunno (Feb 22, 2003)

*Re: (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_Are you sure it's the tensioner pulley and not one of the other accessory pullies?

My 98 GLX has squeaked almost since the day I drove it off the lot. At first it would squeak at startup and then stop after a few minutes. Dealer said they couldn't do anything because by the time I drove it to the dealer, the noise had stopped. Anyway, at about 40k I put a new belt on and that stopped the noise for a few months but then it came back. 
I read this DIY months ago and finally got around to doing it three days ago. The squeak was gone and I could barely hear my engine at all, just like when I first bought the car. But yesterday on a cold start, the noise was back. Is there still a problem with the tensioner pulley (or the bearing), another pulley, or is it the belt? If it's another pulley, which is the most likely?
Thanks for an awesome DIY










_Modified by dunno at 8:53 PM 9-19-2004_


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (dunno)*

It's possible that the bearing in the tensioner pulley may be in bad enough shape that no amount of grease will cure the noise. If that's not the case, then it's probably one of the other accessories. The most likely culprit would be the water pump bearing.
Gary


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## olaf (Jun 8, 1999)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

Just did this per Gary's instructions. My bearing was dry, but not damaged. I just popped out the seals and regreased on both sides. I think if you catch the problem early enough, your bearing will be ok with new grease. I got 123k out of my belt, so I can't complain.


----------



## no3rdvr6 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (olaf)*

How difficult is it to replace the belt while the tensioner is off? Any tricks to fitting the belt?
Much appreciated. Great write up Gary.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (no3rdvr6)*

Pretty easy. The hardest part is getting it around the crank pulley. Getting at that pulley from below should make it easier.
Gary


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## GTI_Matador (Oct 1, 1999)

*Re: (vduber6er)*

great write up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
One problem. Before I did this the pulley spun like butter with no problem. I took it apart, took the seals out carefully and put some high temp grease in and then put the seals back on. When I mounted the pulley back on and tightened it up I noticed that it doesn't spin as freely anymore, in fact I can get barely 1/4 rotation when I spin it by hand. So thinking I may have overtightened it I loosened it back up and started tightening it again as I spun the pulley and there is a definite point where it stops spinning easily but its hardly tightened. Any ideas?


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (GTI_Matador)*

Sounds like you may have reinstalled the pulley on the tensioner arm incorrectly. Take the pulley back off, slide your finger through the bearing and see if the pulley spins. If it does, then the bearing is fine and the pulley or bearing is binding somewhere on the tensioner when reassembled.
FYI, after adding the grease to the bearing, the pulley will be *slightly* harder to spin than before due to the added resistance from the grease. It should have no problems spinning completely around though.
Gary


----------



## GTI_Matador (Oct 1, 1999)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

I did spin it on my finger without a problem and it spins freely when I put it on the tensioner also but as soon as I get to a certain point of tightening it doesn't spin as freely. Also once that point is reached it doesn't matter if I continue to tighten it more, it stills spins exactly the same. I figured it was probably due to the grease but it was a significant change from soinning like 3-4 full rotations before to just barely 1/2 a rotation after adding the grease. I can rotate it freely without any binding by hand and nothing feels like its scraping so I do think its just maybe the new grease but since no one else mentioned it I thought maybe it was something wrong with my setup.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (GTI_Matador)*

The 3-4 revs without grease to 1/2 rev with grease sounds about right. With the grease added, it should spin freely like before, but should be able to rotate 360° without any problems.
So does the pulley's ability to spin change depending on how tight the bolt is? If so then it's has to be binding somewhere. If the pulleys spins completely albeit slowly when reinstalled, you amy want to put it back on the engine, start here up and see if it spins and makes any noise. If it's quiet then it's probably OK. If not, shut her down and start again.
FYI, after I regreased my pulley and reassemble the pulley and tensioner I held the tensioner body and spun the pulley as quickly on my carpet like a kid with a toy car. You could feel the added resistance of the grease, but the pulley spum without a problem and was a lot quieter than before. You may want to try this before putting it back on the engine.
Gary


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## GTI_Matador (Oct 1, 1999)

*Re: (VgRt6)*








I actually spun it like a kid on my coffee table after I put it back together and it ran fine. I think it just might be the grease I used. It's Mobil 1 synthetic wheel bearing grease, that I use when I'm lubricating bearings so it is pretty thick. 
When I first put the pulley on its spindle, it can rotate fairly easily but has a lot of up and down movement, obvioulsy. When I add the bolt and start tightening, there is a point when the up and down movement stops and the spinning isn't as free, if I continue tighting it it doesn't effect the spinning of the pulley at all, which is to say there doesn't seem to be any binding that is a result of over tightening, it just reaches a point and stays there no matter how much tighter I make the bolt. This all leads me to believe that everything is fine and its just due to the thicker grease and it will spin as freely as before over time.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (GTI_Matador)*

Sounds like everything is OK. I'd reinstall the tensioner and see what happens. The worst that could happen is that the belt won't spin properly for a few seconds until you shut the engine off.
Gary


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## 9seven6 (Jun 8, 2004)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

My bearing started crying today on the way home from work, time to use yet another one of Gary's extremely informative DIY's.
The time and money you have saved me!!


----------



## DELI DANA VR6 (Feb 6, 2001)

*Re: (James 93SLC)*

Bump http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 9seven6 (Jun 8, 2004)

*Re: (DELI DANA VR6)*

anyones bearing NOT have metal pieces on top?
My bearing is sitting in front of me and it seems to be all plastic/rubber besides the center ring which is part of the bearing.
dont know what to do








Edit: I got daring and just went for it. I dended up not having any metal pieces on top of the bearing. It was one big orange/red rubber piece.
I got it apart and packed that sucker with the grease. Doesn't make a sound now.
Thanks again Gary http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by P i m p y 9 7 6 at 10:00 PM 12-8-2004_


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (P i m p y 9 7 6)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








Gary


----------



## VR6 'raddo (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

Thanks for bumping this up guys, i totally forgot about this write up and was contemplating on when to do my serpentine belt and pulley, i may even go in on the groupbuy for the aluminum pulley that YarrowSport is offering. Since i now saw this, i'm gonna take it apart and check to see how the belt and pulley bearings look. Excellent write-up Gary, thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## _BCNUQT_ (Oct 24, 2004)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

it there a torque to tighten the 3 bolts on the tensioner ?
I did find this regarding the bolt on the pully, but found nothing about the 3 bolts holding the tensioner in place.
Quote from another thread "Never heard of an official spec, but 20-30 ft-lbs should be sufficient for a bolt that size. As James already pointed out though, hand tight should do since the bolt will natually tighten due to the rotation of the pulley and the reverse threads."


_Modified by _BCNUQT_ at 12:43 AM 12-21-2004_


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (_BCNUQT_)*


_Quote, originally posted by *_BCNUQT_* »_Quote from another thread "Never heard of an official spec, but 20-30 ft-lbs should be sufficient for a bolt that size. As James already pointed out though, hand tight should do since the bolt will natually tighten due to the rotation of the pulley and the reverse threads."

That sounds like something I wrote. I still stand by those numbers - it should be a sufficient torque.
Since the three tensioner-to-head bolts are smaller in diameter, the torque value will be lower. I don't recall what it should be off the top of my mind, but 11 ft-lbs (15 N-m) comes to mind. FOr most of the small bolts being threaded into the aluminum head, the torque values are either 7 ft-lbs (10 N-m) or 11 ft-lbs (15 N-m).
Gary


----------



## _BCNUQT_ (Oct 24, 2004)

*Re: (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_
That sounds like something I wrote.
Gary

it is, sorry I did not quote your name with it. And thanks alot, sounds like you really know your stuff, tis great to get info from another without being bashed for what you do not know.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (_BCNUQT_)*

No problem.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Gary


----------



## BMW Killa (Nov 20, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (GTO1)*

This is a great DIY. I wish i'd seen it before i left on vacation this week.... Long story short, my pulley failed in the middle of a 1200 mile road trip in a podunk michigan town. AAA saved my ass and the nearest VW dealer happened to have a tensioner so i got lucky.... but it is NOT a good failure to have on a road trip, so grease up those bearings people!
Oh, and in Michigan i was able to get a tensioner unit for 109$ + tax and a belt for 21$. i thought it was a good deal.


----------



## lukeocyte (Dec 27, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Maxt2)*

I know what you mean...mine went out on a long trip Christmas vacation. I was 600 miles from home and had to scramble to replace the tensioner (NAPA $106.34 + Tax). None of the shops had the belt in stock so I had to use the old belt. Luckily I made it home okay. Needless to say I will be replacing the belt this weekend using this guide. 
BTW, I have the bearing part #'s as 6303 & SKF 6203-2RS1. Which is the correct one and where can I find it? I'm looking to replace the bearing and sell the original "fixed" tesioner to recoup some money back for this failure. Many Thanks. Great DIY.


----------



## _BCNUQT_ (Oct 24, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Maxt2)*









This is a pulley with 175,000 miles on it!!! I figured the bearings were all dried up, running with no grease, got hot as hell, melted the plastic pulley, and snapped straight in the middle. And Thanks to Gary and this DIY, tis my belt tensioner setting there on the ground and not in my car


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (_BCNUQT_)*


_Quote, originally posted by *_BCNUQT_* »_










This is exactly why everyone should grease the pulley bearing even if they're not having any problems!
I got lucky that I caught the problem only a few miles after the bearing started making noise (mine had ~130k miles when that happened). I'm sure mine would have melted like this if I had ignored it for even a short amount of time.
Gary


----------



## jeglseder (Mar 7, 2000)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Ok, great write up but I seem to have another issue/problem. I noticed that it seemed as if my power steering pump was working awful hard lately when I would pull into my garage, wheel close to lock. I checked the power steering fluid and it is above the "min" line so I thought maybe I am just not used to driving with my radio off. 
Yesterday, I noticed that it was making a squeaking noise, much louder than normal from the passenger side. I said to myself, "you need to look at that this weekend."
Tonight, still loud and after about an hour driving, went around a big sweeper (to the right) to get onto the highway, and it squealed like a stuck pig until I straighened it out again. Then it was no longer squealing. I got home and popped the hood, and it seemed like the noise was from the tensioner pulley. 
So, my question is, could the tensioner pulley make my these other symptoms? I need to do this on Saturday, but I don't want to get caught without the correct parts on a holiday weekend. TIA.


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (jeglseder)*

If the tensioner pulley is binding and slowing down the belt, then I guess it could affect the PS pump. It's possible that the pump is starting to go bad though. Make sure the tensioner pulley is working correctly (a regreasing should help) and then see if the pump is still acting up. If the tensioner pulley checks out OK, then I'd start looking at the PS pump directly.
Gary


----------



## VR6 MD (Mar 26, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Mine jsut melted this past Sunday







. Just installed the new tnesioner.


----------



## jeglseder (Mar 7, 2000)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Based on this, I'd say I was past the point of lubrication...
















Thanks to ImageShack for Free Image Hosting


_Modified by jeglseder at 10:19 PM 12-31-2004_


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (jeglseder)*








I think you might be right!








Gary


----------



## flipg01 (Aug 6, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Hmm...I don't seem to have those 3 bolts in this pic








Instead, I have these green things


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (flipg01)*

Interesting. Either the newer VR6s use 5 or 6mm hex bolts instead of the standard head bolts or someone swapped those in without your knowledge.















Gary


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## flipg01 (Aug 6, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Weird huh, and mine's a 2001 also...wtf








And all the bolts around that area are the same color too so I have no clue...
This model was built in Germany...could that have anything to do with it? Blah, guess I'll have to grease it up tomorrow then 


_Modified by flipg01 at 4:51 PM 1-4-2005_


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (flipg01)*

Those are VW bolts, but look more like the ones used on the intake manifold.








Gary


----------



## flipg01 (Aug 6, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

I see, so you think they're roughly a 5 or 6 mm hex bolt? I'll look for some at Autozone tomorrow so I can finish this "project" http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (flipg01)*

They're actually 8mmx1.25 pitch bolts. The hex socket at the top is most likely 6mm.
Are you going to replace them? You don't need to. Those are fine.
Gary


----------



## Crazy_D (Dec 17, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

The bolt is a M8x60mmx1.25 pitch thread and can be bought at your local lowes or home depot. They are located in the "pull out" drawers on the nuts/bolts isle. The 60mm just works, on my 96 GTI VR6, and you kinda have to thread it in a little by hand and then use a wrench/sockets/plyers to just loosen the serpentine belt. 
I followed this thread, found the bolt at Lowes (pack of 2 costed me $0.77) and two minutes later my melted pulley was off and ready to put on the yarrowsport when it comes in.... 
Thanks for the write up, I dont know what I would do without it!


----------



## flipg01 (Aug 6, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Crazy_D)*

Oops, I meant to ask if I should use a 6mm hex key but I went ahead to the parts store tonight and got myself a set http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
As for the pitch bolt, 60mm is waaay too long for my 01, trust me...trial and error


----------



## flipg01 (Aug 6, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Has anyone else ever had any trouble taking this bolt off? 








I have the wrench in clockwise setting and it's not even giving way whatsoever, and believe me, I'm pushing as hard as I can








Plus the bolt is 17mm for me and not 15


----------



## 9seven6 (Jun 8, 2004)

Mine was 17mm as well. I put the whole tensioner in the vice and put all my weight on the wrench and it gave. Try harder


----------



## flipg01 (Aug 6, 2002)

*Re: (P i m p y 9 7 6)*

Thanks for the encouragement man, but what's the vice?

*EDIT*: Nevermind, I finally got it to give







Thanks man!!


_Modified by flipg01 at 3:17 PM 1-5-2005_


----------



## flipg01 (Aug 6, 2002)

*Re: (flipg01)*

Hey Gary, thanks for a great writeup! Finally got everything accomplished today and overall, I think it went pretty well http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## orangeJEWlius (Jan 2, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

great info http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (flipg01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *flipg01* »_Hey Gary, thanks for a great writeup! Finally got everything accomplished today and overall, I think it went pretty well http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 12v_Dub (Jan 3, 2004)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

on my tensioner i had to use 5mm allen key


----------



## ryan2425 (Jan 27, 2004)

this is why i love this forum


----------



## 12v_Dub (Jan 3, 2004)

*Re: (ryan2425)*

if someone doesnt have a vice its easier to take the belt off of the tensioner pulley and then loosen the pulley before taking those 3 bolts off.


----------



## coraggio (Feb 1, 2003)

*Re: (12v_Dub)*

Yep, removing the entire tensioner is unnecessary if you're just going to service the pulley.


----------



## Raktim81 (Aug 5, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_










is it possible to buy just the pulley somewhere? maybe NAPA or VW dealer? Mine was making some crazy noises and i just looked today and the pulley (bearing) seems to be gone. I;ll try taking a pic soon. 
ok here's what mine looks like


















_Modified by Raktim81 at 4:35 PM 1-16-2005_


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Raktim81)*

You can only buy an aftermarket pulley (search for Yarrowsport). If you want an OEM pulley, you need to buy the entire unit.
Gary


----------



## Raktim81 (Aug 5, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_You can only buy an aftermarket pulley (search for Yarrowsport). If you want an OEM pulley, you need to buy the entire unit.
Gary

i dont think i have time to wait for it to be shipped to my house. i gotta take off work tomorrow to fix this. i guess i'll have to buy the whole thing either at NAPA or the local VW dealer...
anyone know how much this thing goes for? I see parts4vws.com has it for $110. but then again, i dont have time to wait for online shipping


----------



## dunno (Feb 22, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Raktim81)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Raktim81* »_
anyone know how much this thing goes for? I see parts4vws.com has it for $110. but then again, i dont have time to wait for online shipping

Dealer near me wants $120 for the entire tensioner.
On a side note, after re-lubing my bearing three times (and losing the grease each time) I finally replaced the bearing. Curious as to how much grease is on a new bearing, I pried one of the seals off and took a look. Beleive me, there's not much. I tried to take a pic with my digital camera but I probably need a closeup lens to do it right. Point is, if you regrease the bearing, use very little grease. If you use too much, it will fly out the seals and possibly on to your belt or pulley, which will cause the belt to squeal. In fact, I totally degreased the pulley before reinstalling it and also put on a new belt and it does not make a sound now. My engine is so quiet now sometimes I think I've stalled.


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Raktim81)*

$100-110 is the tyical online price. Expect to pay $150-200 at a local dealer. FYI, it would actually be cheaper to buy it online and pay for overnight shipping if you can wait an extra day.
Gary


----------



## booya_45 (Nov 29, 2001)

Mine just recently went out on me. I drove my car for a day while the bearing was making noise. By the time i had got home; the pulley had stopped spinning completely and the bearing had melted itself to the pulley!!!!!!!! Luckily the belt was still in good shape and all i had to do was pull a different pulley off a passat at a junkyard. Even if your pulley isn't making noise yet i recommend repacking with grease. Its cheap insurance! -dale


----------



## Raktim81 (Aug 5, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

i am shocked!! both of the local dealers has it for $110!! and NAPA auto has it for $118. First time i saw something cheaper at the dealer!!!


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Raktim81)*

My local dealer sells is for $188.















Gary


----------



## Raktim81 (Aug 5, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_My local dealer sells is for $188.















Gary 

damn!!!
well i did it. changed the belt tensioner. another problem. looks like the old tensioner riiped one (out of 5 grooves running along the length of the serpentine belt) off the belt. so the belt only has 4 grooves now. is this gonna be a problem?


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Raktim81)*

Not in the short term. It should still last a while. Replace it when you get a chance.
Gary


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## remman4 (Feb 4, 2003)

Well, Gary, finally got around to this project this evening.... only a few pitfalls...
on my 92 SLC the bearing seals were a bit old and easily damaged, but still came off and went back in with some new grease








the bolt on the pulley was 17 mm, and I reinstalled the tensioner unit so I could use the car as leverage to break that bolt loose...
autozone had the correct bolt for releasing tension, however had to grind down the top of it b/c the threads only went up about 36 mm and I needed at least 40, dremel came out and problem solved with some grinding...
drew blood, so it was an official car project..








Thanks Gary!!!
you make me feel like I almost know enough about my car to tackle these DIY's 
:beer for you!


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (remman4)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








Gary


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## Raktim81 (Aug 5, 2003)

Gary, I forgot to thank you for this writeup and for answering all my questions! 
so Thank you!
you saved me $150+


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (Raktim81)*

Anytime.








Gary


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## alchu (Feb 2, 2004)

*Re: (booya_45)*


_Quote, originally posted by *booya_45* »_Mine just recently went out on me. I drove my car for a day while the bearing was making noise. By the time i had got home; the pulley had stopped spinning completely and the bearing had melted itself to the pulley!!!!!!!! Luckily the belt was still in good shape and all i had to do was pull a different pulley off a passat at a junkyard. Even if your pulley isn't making noise yet i recommend repacking with grease. Its cheap insurance! -dale

holy crap.
I let mine make noise for a good week or two before I did anything about it. Guess I was lucky....


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## remman4 (Feb 4, 2003)

TTT


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## one_vee_dub (Dec 5, 2003)

just greased mine in the parking lot of my store here, in about 20 minutes...it was noisy for about 2 weeks!!! i'm very lucky it didn't seize and fall off!!!

thanks for the write up bump


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## mrsinister (Jan 30, 2005)

*Re: (one_vee_dub)*

Does anyone know where I might buy the tensioner pulley online? I searched Yarrowsport and couldn't find anything... 
Thanks,


----------



## VR6 'raddo (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (mrsinister)*

do a search for the groub buy he just had on the tensioner, he might still have some available.


----------



## VR6ix (Oct 27, 2003)

Had to do this little trick today when the noise suddenly got much louder. I was fearing a bearing failure with every passing KM ... err, mile








Anyway, I removed the pulley only. "Broke" the bolt loose, then released the tension, finally unscrewed the bolt the rest of the way. It was a 5/8", which was very odd considering every other fastener on the car is metric. 2001 Jetta, Canadian model, eh. 40mm M8 1.25 worked fine.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## CorradoCody (Oct 13, 2001)

*Re: (VR6ix)*

http://www.germanautoparts.com...e/3/2
Here's a nice piece you guys can use when replacing the tensioner. $75.00, doesn't seem too expensive. I just don't want the stock part to melt like some of the ones I've seen in previous posts.
CC


----------



## DubStyleVr6 (Mar 22, 2002)

*Re: (CorradoCody)*

Great DIY....did it today after work...Thanks Gary, your the man! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## bahnbrennerg60 (May 15, 2004)

*Re: (DubStyleVr6)*

2 years later and this post is popular. nice write up!!


----------



## Tlan (Jun 4, 2004)

*Re: (phatvr6)*

Done it like a week ago, no noise at all after that. Really easy, and I learnt a lot. thanks


_Modified by Tlan at 10:22 AM 5-11-2006_


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## volcomvw (Dec 26, 2001)

*Re: (Tlan)*

A+
...just packed my bearing up with some fancy-schmancy mobil1 synth grease. that beotch was squakin loud. super easy to do, i didnt even pull the whole tensioner i just relieved the tension, undid the pulley bolt and popped that sucker off http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Calimus (Nov 5, 2001)

*Re: (volcomvw)*

Looks like this might make my weekend list of things to do. Great writeup. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## betw (Oct 18, 1999)

*thanks gary*

hey guys just did the lube and belt today. took my time and spent 1:15 mins. if anyone is doing the belt replacement, definately jack up the car ahead of time. i can't see how one can get the belt around the bottom pulllies without getting under the car. my only minor hiccup was removing the black plastic side panel on the side of the oil pan. it is held in by a a torx screw and (2)inverted star like nut/washer which is pushed into a built in screw. i took my time and slowly pryed the thing off. i'm sure there is a trick to it. i just didn't know. anyone for future reference..........
anyway - thanks again gary. you've saved me quite a bit of $ and stress along the way. 
b-


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: thanks gary (betw)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
FYI, the easiest way I've found to get the "star" washer off is to rotate it off by sticking a flatbalde screwdriver in one of the slots and turning counter-clockwise. The bolt that the washer attaches too is regular thread, so it will spin right off. To get it back on, use a small socket like 10mm or so to push it straight on. It will ratchet into place very easily.
Gary


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## antarius (Feb 4, 2003)

*Re: thanks gary (VgRt6)*

I'll be doing this tomorrow.
My belt has been squeeking since I got the car two years ago, and 60,000 miles later it's getting so loud that (squeeking) that it's finally starting to worry me.
I'm not sure if it's the tensioner or just the belt, but I'm going to go ahead and do both.
Can someone describe to me what the noise sounded like when the tensioner bearings were rubbing? Was it a squeeking (like a belt squeek) or was it something else?
Thanks.


----------



## antarius (Feb 4, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Did this and it went easy as pie.
I had to take the pully bolt off while the tensioner was still mounted to the car, because I could not, for the life of me, take it off.
I also replaced the belt during this and while it got 95% quieter, I still hear a very slight squeeking. It's MUCH MUCH quieter than before, but I do still hear it a little.
It's probably the bearings in the waterpump pully, according to the general consensus on this forum.
Nonetheless, it's much better.


----------



## B The Getta (Aug 18, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

yow you guys are the shiznit, thats what i have been looking for. is the power steering pully EZ to replace? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## vr6* (Jan 23, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (B The Getta)*

VgRt6...holy #%@, good write-up. my wife called me tonight, told me the VR6 smelled like burnt rubber and she pulled off the highway and turned the car off. i went to check it out...saw that the belt was fubar...but i was close to home, so i drove it home (i knew i had no p.s., no water pump, no altenator....), and she drove my car home.
once i got into the engine bay (that belt was done), i pulled the tensioner out QUICK (thanks to this write up). the bearing and the pulley was done (no bearing, and the pulley was cracked in 3 pieces), but i'm out of luck, because there is a chunk of flat metal on the actual tensioner piece that the pulley sat on, so i've got to buy the whole thing. 
let me tell you, i maintain this damn car, and that tensioner never peeped, squeaked, moaned...nothing. so even if yours is quiet, it may definitely be worth repacking with some high rpm grease... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
wish mine gave me some warning...lol.


----------



## glitronic (Sep 8, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (vr6*)*

does the M8 bolt for the tensioner need to be fully threaded?
I can't find anything longer than 40mm in full threads.


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (glitronic)*

The whole length of the bolt doesn't need to be threaded, but there needs to be enough threads to fully release the tension from the belt.
Gary


----------



## glitronic (Sep 8, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_The whole length of the bolt doesn't need to be threaded, but there needs to be enough threads to fully release the tension from the belt.
Gary

thanks.
well, the threads for my current tensioner are broken anyway (as in there's a chunk of metal missing where the right half of the threads would be), so I'll be cutting the old belt off and replacing the tensioner & belt.
so, is it necessary to have the correct M8 bolt to release tension to get a new belt back ON to a new tensioner?


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (glitronic)*

Yes.
Gary


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## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

if you are looking for the right size bolt you can always go to the dealer and grab one. its not the end of the world cause its a $1 part or somthing. and you are sure you are getting the right one.
did my serp last year and it took 20 minutes to do. pretty easy and this DIY is a great aid


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (nOOb)*

Home Depot or Lowes should have a bolt that would work.








Gary


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## BLKBOX (Jan 17, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

I had the damndest time trying to find a bolt and still haven't...I tried lowes', no good, tried auto zone and advance, no good; tried Napa, found an M7 that fit, but it wasn't long enough (their M8 were too big in diameter







) Anyway, I'm just gonna hit the dealer on this one...this shiznit is getting friggin ridiculous!!!!!


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## no3rdvr6 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (FMF)*

Had the same problem. Found it on bolt.com. Only $8. No way I was spending $8 for a bolt I probably only use once. 
I still don't have the bolt. I've had the new belt for two months now. I keep checking the local stores.


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## smoothbomber23 (Sep 18, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Is a GTI VR6 12 valve the type of engine, where when the serpentine belt brakes when u are driving there is major engine damage....I E... destroyed engine!!??? http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (smoothbomber23)*

Yes, this is the 12v VR6 engine, but the serpentine belt only runs the engine accessories, i.e., the water pump, A/C, power steering pump and alternator. The VR6 doesn't have a timing "belt" like some other engines, but rather has timing chains. If one of these break, then major engine damage will occur. If the serpentine belt breaks, the worst that would happen is the engine might overheat.
See the DIY link in my signature for a link to a timing chain DIY. That DIY contains a lot of background info on the timing chains that you might find useful/interesting.
Gary


----------



## smoothbomber23 (Sep 18, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Hey Thanks......... U know alot about VW's!!!!!!!!!!! Its sick!


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## smoothbomber23 (Sep 18, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Raktim81)*

alright i packed the bearing with grease and stuff and the noise went away for like 2 days..........but now its back......any suggestions


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (smoothbomber23)*

Are you sure that the seals were put back in fully/properly?
Gary


----------



## Fantomasz (Aug 15, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

install new bearing like I did


----------



## dmorrow (Jun 9, 2000)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Fantomasz)*

Just got finished doing mine. Excellent write up!! Thanks for the help. I had already taken it to the dealer for an estimate when I found this post. They want $298 to replace the whole tensioner. I repacked it for about $5. Even if it eventually makes more noise because of this post I found the replacement pulley for $78 and can easily replace it myself now. Thanks again.


----------



## murray42 (Jul 28, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (dmorrow)*

OK, So I read every single post, but just want to clear something up, I have a terrible whine/screech that increases with rpm, its coming from the tensioner area I assume this is the same prob everyone else had here.
How do I know if I need the whole tensioner or just pulley? Or is the pulley(bearing) just the problem? Thanks IA http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (murray42)*


_Quote, originally posted by *murray42* »_OK, So I read every single post, but just want to clear something up, I have a terrible whine/screech that increases with rpm, its coming from the tensioner area I assume this is the same prob everyone else had here.
How do I know if I need the whole tensioner or just pulley? Or is the pulley(bearing) just the problem? Thanks IA http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I doubt it's the whole tensioner unless the spring tension is insufficient. It's usually just the bearing in the pulley.
Gary


----------



## murray42 (Jul 28, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_
I doubt it's the whole tensioner unless the spring tension is insufficient. It's usually just the bearing in the pulley.
Gary

Done and Done, saved again thru actual info on the tex http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## jeffreyippolito (Jan 15, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Fantomasz)*

Could somebody confirm the correct replacement bearing for the pully? Two SKF p/n's have been mentioned, 6203 and 6303. 
The 6203 has: Bore 17mm, OD 40mm and width 12mm
The 6303 has: Bore 17mm, OD 47mm and width 14mm
Thanks


----------



## murray42 (Jul 28, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lu ... (jeffreyippolito)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jeffreyippolito* »_Could somebody confirm the correct replacement bearing for the pully? Two SKF p/n's have been mentioned, 6203 and 6303. 
The 6203 has: Bore 17mm, OD 40mm and width 12mm
The 6303 has: Bore 17mm, OD 47mm and width 14mm
Thanks

also interested and how to get th ebearing out?


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lu ... (murray42)*

I'm pretty sure that 6203 is the correct #. To get the bearing out, you need to remove the small plastic lip that secures the bearing in place on one side and then press the bearing out.
Gary


----------



## excvr6 (Jun 16, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Just used your DIY thread to replace my tensioner. Took about 30 minutes, and after spending $1500 on a timing chain job, you saved me about $70 or so in labor. 
Thanks!


----------



## agoof25 (Dec 10, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (excvr6)*

Just did mine. Thanks againg for a great write up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## ROCKnRLR (Oct 30, 2000)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (agoof25)*

I was so eager to do this!






















The noise started (or I started to notice it) after I had the belt replaced by a friend. So, I bought the grease and I set off to do this. I had observed previously that the top of the threaded hole was missing a chunk of metal but I thought nothing of it. I took out the tensioner, I took out the pulley. Cleaned the pulley with brake cleaner and then packed it with grease. I put the pulley back in the tensioner and then proceeded to screw in the tension release bolt again. It suddenly came out completely, and I noticed a crack on the side of the tensioner. I will take pics later so you can see the damage. Hopefully, there is a VW dealership and I got a new tensioner for $96.16, I am going to replace it at lunch.
Gary, great DIY!
The missing chunk in the tensioner release bolt threaded hole I paid no attention to:








The crack:










_Modified by ROCKnRLR at 12:34 PM 1-11-2006_


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## BumblebVR6 (Nov 22, 2001)

Anti-seize is your friend when doing this.


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## ROCKnRLR (Oct 30, 2000)

*Re: (BumblebVR6)*

The threaded hole was fux0red before I began!
I will use anti-seize now that I replace the tensioner back in place.


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## dunno (Feb 22, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

I don't have a torque wrench, so I'm wondering how tight is 30 ft-lbs? (the spec for the bolt that holds the pulley to the tensioner). I don't want to over tighten this thing.


_Modified by dunno at 9:49 PM 1-22-2006_


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (dunno)*

30 ft-lbs is not that much on a bolt the size that's used to secure the pulley to the tensioner, especially when the bolt is steel and the threaded hole is aluminum. Just make it snug with a normal socket wrench. 
Gary


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## prooman (Feb 24, 1999)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

awesome DIY!!! i replced the belt a few days ago and it wasnt making noise until a few days later....dammit!!! so i went down to home depot and got everything i needed for like $4.....an item of note when i changed the belt i was using a 40mm bolt and it made it extremely hard to get the new belt on....it was tightened all the way and it still didnt force the tensioner pulley all the way down....so today i got a 50mm bolt and it worked like a charm...no problem getting the belt on whatsoever!!!!! its close but not too hard to get the bolt threaded with the fuel line clamps either!!! prising the seals off the bearing and regresing is very easy too!!!! an overall easy job to do......kudos to the original author!!!!!
Mike


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## VR6ix (Oct 27, 2003)

*FYI: Why the bearings WITH RUBBER SEALS suck*
Turns out the bearings are only rated to 12,000 rpm when used as sold, ie. sealed with the two seals. As stated before, the belt ratio is 3:1, so 4,000 rpm motor = 12,000 rpm pulley bearing.
The bearings ARE rated to 21,000 rpm but ONLY WHEN USED IN AN OPEN GREASE BATH, ie. no seals and constantly lubed by a large quantity of grease. 21,000 rpm = 7,000 rpm motor, aka redline.
SO no matter how much you re-grease the poor little bearing, it is doomed to fail.
Just to brighten your day









SKF Explorer 6203-2RSH Rubber Seal bearing data sheet
SKF Explorer 6203-2Z Metal Shield bearing data sheet
Looks like you actually want the METAL SHIELD bearings, not the rubber seal ones. I'll be going back to get one to see if that works, as I just replaced the old one with another RSH rubber seal, and it's squeeking already. Update to come.
if the links break, I found all the info on SKF.com


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## VR6ix (Oct 27, 2003)

The 6203 2Z bearings cost a couple pennys less than the rubber-seal one. Only problem will be not being able to take a seal off to repack the bearing with more grease. Update after the car gets driven tomorrow http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (VR6ix)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VR6ix (Oct 27, 2003)

Well, after about 80 km (what... 45-50 miles) of daily commute, the bearing is SQUEEK-FREE. The rubber seal bearing that I had just installed last week was squeeking the same day I installed it. 6203 2Z is obviously a better choice.
Now, without the squeeking, I notice so many more strange noises coming from the poor VR !







Could be early signs of chain guides








Anyway, http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif for the metal shield bearing. I guess the next test is longevity, so we'll have to wait-and-see









edit: also of note, the car did not go over 6,000 rpm, so the rpm "limit" of the 2Z bearing was not exceeded... yet.


_Modified by VR6ix at 9:07 PM 2-7-2006_


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## LC5P_GLX (Jul 4, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (smoothbomber23)*

just did mine.... like night and day.... it was f'n dirty and ready to die!

but some dumba$$ fubarred the friggin M8 threads....not even imperial bolt would thread








so after using alot of pipe tape the f'n cheap white metal broke.... no more threads... and nothing to pry it open with....
so I just went medevil on it and muscled the tensioner on.... (after the belt was looped thru of course







)
acutally it's VERY easy.... facing the tensioner, the upper bolt closest to you put it in, but leave is slack... then you can push - lever - the tensioner quite easily... I used my un-shoed heel to put soem weight on it, and then like a game of twister, fished the bolt closest to the firewall in and threaded it up.... the 3rd was cake....
this has to be the best preventative maintainance I've EVER done for my VR!








Soulsen


_Modified by SoulJer74 at 10:20 PM 2-7-2006_


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## Rabid Pancake (Oct 25, 2005)

How I made a M8 bolt.
Went to the hardware store and got a M8 thread pipe that is about four feet long (shortest they had). 1.25USD. Two bolts, .50USD. Largest M8 "bolt" in the world? Priceless.
Also I used some RV freewheel grease for mine, it was 4.00USD for more then I would ever need. It must be about a liter bucket.
The hardest part about replacing the serpentine belt is if you do at a friend's house where you left your damn tensioning bolt and your enigne and still hot and your burn your hand on the side of your engine. Other then that, it's easy as pie. Just let your engine cool down before you do anything. I'm too impatient.


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## oldscratch (Feb 15, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

worked like a charm, thank you, thank you, thank you. This DIY saved me about $115 and it only took me about an hour to do.http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VR6ix (Oct 27, 2003)

Well the metal shield 6203 2Z bearing is squeeking. So much for that theory. Back to the drawing board! Someone find a bearing that keeps its grease inside the seals in a high-reving VR!


----------



## tyba (Dec 14, 2005)

*Re: (VR6ix)*

Is it hard to replace the barings? If I'm going to tear this bastard apart I might as well just buy a new set, right?


----------



## VW_IS_life (Oct 1, 2004)

*Re: (tyba)*

where is the cheapest place to get an accessory belt?


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## Schnell GTI (Mar 9, 2004)

*Re: (VW_IS_life)*

Thanks for the DIY Gary, I did this last night without issue. The squeaking is completely gone.
I bought a new aluminum pulley here for $78.75: http://www.germanautoparts.com...e/3/4
And a belt here for $23.52: http://www.germanautoparts.com.../15/7
I think it was $102 shipped. I ordered on a Thursday at 3pm and got it by Monday. Great service from German Auto Parts as always.
A few notes on the pulley and belt replacement:
1) My car, a 2000 GTI produced in Germany, had a 16mm bolt on the pulley instead of a 15mm bolt. Maybe the pulley had been replaced once before, or perhaps that's how it was originally. I'm not the original owner, so I don't know.
2) I had three 6mm hex bolts holding the tensioner on the engine instead of 13mm bolts like you mentioned in your addendum to the original instructions. I didn't have the tools, so I only removed the pulley instead of the whole tensioner. This is pretty easy if you have a long torque wrench and semi-nimble hands.
3) Some people mentioned having to jack up the car to replace the belt. You don't have to if you're not lowered - you still need those nimble hands though.
All in all, it took me about 20 minutes to do this start to finish. This included tending to my hand which I cut on the edge of the plastic engine cover of all things. I'm thinking it took such little time because I didn't remove the whole tensioner. Either way, it was an easy fix! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (VW_IS_life)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VW_IS_life* »_where is the cheapest place to get an accessory belt?

ECSTuning has it for like $20 or close to that.
Gary


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## AutoX-FIB (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

I've read the thread in entirely now, and first of all I have to say: THANK YOU!!!! I was thinking I was damned to spend roughly $600 between this repair and fixing the Secondary combi valve error as well.
Looks like a weekend and some patience will take care of both for about $150 in parts.








I do have one question though as far as assessing symptoms. The cams were done in the car by the previous owner, and being that I bought it just before winter, I'm not really sure what it should sound and feel like without a cold start. 
It starts up loud as hell which I'm assuming is the pulley, and then it will get some fluctuating idle for a period of time until it smooths out. I HAVE noticed though, that wheen the belt is staying loud, it has a rougher idle then as well. This will happen periodically while driving on longer trips. It doesn't seem to smooth out completely when the belt is loud. 
Is this pulley likely to be the cause of that? Nothing I have noticed seems to point me towards a timing chain, and the car only has 81K on it right now.


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## LC5P_GLX (Jul 4, 2001)

*Re: (AutoX-FIB)*

Alrighty.... I post above... I did the steps, but mine too, only lasted 2 days.... so I bought a new one from German Auto parts..
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif seals were put back right, and I had to regrease them 3 times....
still a good DIY... but be careful


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (SoulJer74)*

Mines does not have squealing noise at all. But it makes a clicking, engagement noise when at idle, if you pull the throttle. 
so idles fine, no noise, step on gas and you hear a click, then fine, off gas hear the click again..
Would replacing my ouly only (alum. from german) fix this? or do I need to replace theh entire setup ? 
Thanks, Bump for a great thread! I can be IM'ed if you know, that way I wont clutter this thread . Or a simple 1 post answer will work too http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## arkoracing (Mar 21, 2006)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

Hi, I have bought an aluminum pulley with the bearing to a friend that sells them. It costed something like 40 or 50 dollars, I posted some pics. If you are interested please let me know so I can put you in contact with him. He isn't a member of this forum.
























Bye


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## vrb4passat (Oct 15, 2005)

*Re: (arkoracing)*

Yah i wouldnt let this kind of thing go i made the mistake of neglecting my noisy tensioner and it ended up in a sieasd bearing and the explosion of my pully


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## VertigoGTI (Apr 1, 2001)

*Re: (vrb4passat)*

Pulley melted down on me tonight. Luckily, a friend of mine had a spare VR6 laying around and I pulled the tensioner and pulley off of that.
I'll get the new pulley from PulleyBoys.com


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## Vr6Jason (Oct 1, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Point_Blank)*

is a torque wrench absolutly necessary? 
great DIY i've been trying to figure out what was making my car sound like it was supercharged.







i knew it was a bad noise to have, but it was kinda funny the other day because a porsche wanted to run me.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Vr6Jason)*

A torque wrench isn't absolutely necessary. Just be careful not to overtighten the bolts. Steel bolts and aluminum heads are an accident waiting to happen.


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## LostSheepSquadron (Sep 20, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

I've got a MK3 97 vr6... Is the coolant pump pully not supposed to have as big of ribs in it as the rest of the pulleys? Mine looks pretty smooth and makes a noise when i spin it like the noise that comes from when you spin a tire on the car (pads slightly dragging rotors).


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and ... (LostSheepSquadron)*

The water pump pulley is smooth, but may have small shallow grooves in it from the belt. Yours is normal. The noise may indicate that the bearing in the pump is bad. Is there any coolant leaking from the bearing?


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## LostSheepSquadron (Sep 20, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and ... (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_The water pump pulley is smooth, but may have small shallow grooves in it from the belt. Yours is normal. The noise may indicate that the bearing in the pump is bad. Is there any coolant leaking from the bearing?

Not bad, i might loose about a 1/4 inch on the bottle in 6 months time... Figured it was head gasket seepage or something. 
At least i have a MK3 and apperently it's easier to get that beast out of there, it looks plenty difficult to me though. 
In other news this DIY did help me diagnose this because i couldn't hear the pump noise over the tensioner. Danke!


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and ... (LostSheepSquadron)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Tlan (Jun 4, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lu ... (murray42)*


_Quote, originally posted by *murray42* »_Quote, originally posted by jeffreyippolito » 
Could somebody confirm the correct replacement bearing for the pully? Two SKF p/n's have been mentioned, 6203 and 6303. 
The 6203 has: Bore 17mm, OD 40mm and width 12mm
The 6303 has: Bore 17mm, OD 47mm and width 14mm
Thanks

also interested and how to get th ebearing out?

I know it's been a while... but in case you guys still wondering where to get this bearing... check my sig.


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## quickhuh (Aug 16, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lu ... (Tlan)*

Can you get the metal seal ring on the back of the pulley also? i have a yarrowsport one that ring crapped out on 
thanks

_Quote, originally posted by *Tlan* »_
I know it's been a while... but in case you guys still wondering where to get this bearing... check my sig.


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## ethanh8791 (Aug 11, 2002)

*Re: (VertigoGTI)*

are the three bolts that hold the belt tensioner on reverse threaded or normal?


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (Siphilon)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Siphilon* »_are the three bolts that hold the belt tensioner on reverse threaded or normal?

They are normal thread. Only the large pulley bearing bolt is reverse thread.


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## elephant parade (Jan 10, 2006)

*Re: (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_Only the large pulley bearing bolt is reverse thread.

exactly, don't strip out the threads.....its gonna make it a pain when u realize it was supposed to thread in the other way....i sure learned the hard way


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## francocorrado (Nov 23, 2004)

*Re: (elephant parade)*

Excellent write up.
Sort of on topic... Does anyone know the length/number of the belt that fits a 12v VR6 with deleted AC compressor?


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## Jetta_kzo (Aug 10, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

I'm driving a 2003 Jetta with some noticibe belt noise. The belt was just replaced and I'm feeling some side play in the tensioner pulley with the belt on and tightened. Time for a new pulley or is this expected. Seems like too much slop to remian quiet.


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## geosterlingheights (Oct 31, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

I have a question...
The serpentine belt that I bought, from the auto parts store, is not ribbed on both sides (gator, one side only). My question, if not beeing ribbed on both sides, is gonna afect the performance ?( skueeling, noises) . If yes what "brand" or type(belt),you sugest ? 
Thanks a lot for your answers !!!


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and ... (geosterlingheights)*

It might. AFAIK, only the water pump pulley ISN'T ribbed. If you put the belt on so that the flat side rode against the water pump pulley, then the A/C compressor pulley would also run against the flat side of the belt. Flat belt and ribbed pulley doesn't seem like a good combo to me for longevity.


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## az1324 (May 1, 2003)

Thanks for the writeup. That was a quick n cheap fix to a terrible noise. 
Anyone know a good source for the serpentine belt online?


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## sNAZZY (Oct 21, 2006)

thanks for the write up.it really helped me out.


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## nostradahmus (Mar 10, 2006)

*Re: (sNAZZY)*

well it fixed the squeak, but i over tourqued one of the bolt and popped the head right off, oops. at least its back on, now to undertake the procedure of gettin it out....any good suggestions...easy-out?


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## 2002GTI (Sep 18, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (RadoBoi)*

Im not sure if this has been mentioned or not (dont want to go through all 8 pages to check) but I was getting some noise from my tensioner on my 1.8T and I pulled the pulley and it was hard to turn so I tore it apart and Im working on putting it back together now. Guess that thing is prone to failure/drying up.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (nostradahmus)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nostradahmus* »_well it fixed the squeak, but i over tourqued one of the bolt and popped the head right off, oops. at least its back on, now to undertake the procedure of gettin it out....any good suggestions...easy-out?

The easy ou would work, but since the head is gone, the bolt may just back out freely. I would remove the tensioner again and see if enough of the bolt is sticking out of the hole to get a grip on.


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## nostradahmus (Mar 10, 2006)

*Re: (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_The easy ou would work, but since the head is gone, the bolt may just back out freely. I would remove the tensioner again and see if enough of the bolt is sticking out of the hole to get a grip on.

dont know that i could remove the entire unit again, wouldnt the broken bolt prevent me from doing so, or do the threads of the bolt only bite into the engine block?


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (nostradahmus)*

The threads of the bolt only thread into the head of the engine. The tensioner should come right off when you remove the thwo good bolts.


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## nostradahmus (Mar 10, 2006)

*Re: (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_The threads of the bolt only thread into the head of the engine. The tensioner should come right off when you remove the thwo good bolts.

great news, i will check it out tomorrow thanks maintenance master


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## TheFox (Dec 1, 2006)

*[b]to replace on a UK Corrado[/b]*

For any one who is looking at this and owns a *UK Corrado VR6* the procedure is very simple and almost identical to that described on page one of this thread. (Please note my Corrado has no a/c although the procedure is identical)
I would recommend jacking the car up at the front to allow you to position the belt correctly when re-assembling.
The differences are: Firstly, when you open the bonnet (hood for you US boys!) you will be greeted with the following:








Note the yellow arrow, this is where the belt is. Therefore, to begin with you need to remove the air filter and box. Unscrew the retaining clip on the air filter pipe (red arrow), undo the clips holding the air filter box lid on and disconnect the electrical connection (blue arrow). Then gently pull the air filter box hose loose from the pipe and and put in a safe place. Then remove the base of the filter box - this is a little tricky and I found it had to be twisted and turned to get it out. I couldn't simply lift it out! 
Next comes the removal of the belt tensioner. Remove the bolt shown in the picture below marked by the yellow arrow and place in the hole marked by the red arrow. (fortunately on the UK Corrado they fit nicely!)You may find this easier to do with a spanner and use a screw driver to push the clip (just above the red arrow) out of the way. Screw in the bolt all the way.








Now follow the instructions on page one of this thread until you come to re-assemble.
To re-assemble, most of the work can be done from above. With the tensioner pulley still removed, start by getting the belt around the camshaft pulley, you can start off by putting it in from above and then passing the belt underneath the camshaft pulley and p/steering pulley. You can then pop underneath the car and adjust it as necessary to get it in the right place. Next comes passing it around the coolant pulley and finally around the alternator pulley. Then put the tensioner pulley back. HOWEVER, ensure that the bolt you screwed in to remove the tension is screwed back in BEFORE putting it back on. See pic below:








It will be quite tight and I put in the bolt marked with the yellow arrow on first. Then, rotate the pulley tensioner until you can get the bolt in marked with the red arrow. (You may need to use a screw driver for a bit leverage.) When you have tightened these 2 bolts up remove the bolt from the tensioner and refit into the third hole and tighten. Check to ensure belt is correctlt fitted around all pulleys. You can then briefly start the car to check it before replacing air filter. Job done








Finally, you can purchase the belt and tensioner from:
VWSpares or EuroCarParts or GSFCarParts 
NB. GSF say that don't have the tensioner/pulley assembly, although on the tensioner I have it doesn't say it is suitable for a Corrado but fits fine and is the one sold by Euro Car Parts for the Corrado.
I'm sure there are others but these are the 3 I have found.



_Modified by TheFox at 1:38 PM 12-1-2006_


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## Snowshoeken (Jan 28, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Did this over the weekend. New Pulley and Belt - 45 mins. Replaced pulley with aftermarket aluminum one for germanautopart. Did not need to take whole assembly off, just pulley. Repacked the old pulley bearing just cause I had a bunch of time since I thought this would take longer. Now I have a spare pulley, although I don't think I will need it. Thanks for the good write up!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## ahsm (Jan 9, 2007)

I have a 95 Jetta VR6 and I recently started hearing a screeching noise when I started up my car in the cold, it was gone after the car warmed up. And with time (one week) the sound became louder and now I hear this unpleasent screeching when I drive. I don't hear it when the car is idling at about 800rpm, if I rev up just a tad bit to 900rpm the sound starts, and the higher I rev the louder/faster it becomes. I thought this was my belt, so I bought some belt dressing. After spraying a decent amounts - no luck. I put my ear closely to the area of the sound, and it seems to be coming from this part. I was just wondering, what part will I need to buy/what needs to be replaced?


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## jhayesvw (Oct 3, 2001)

*Re: (ahsm)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ahsm* »_ I was just wondering, what part will I need to buy/what needs to be replaced?

well, 
i just replaced this part yesterday, i also replaced my buddies on his 2000 jetta vr6 2 weeks ago. both of us got our tensioner assemblies at Checkers/Schucks/Kragen.
$80 for a FACTORY PART!!!. they literally machine the VW symbol off it. it comes in a goodyear box.
or you can try the regrease thing, which is DIRT CHEAP. then if it doesnt help after a day or 4, buy the new tensioner. great thing is, it was like $81 and took 1 day to get there. it even says LITENS on the back and GERMANY. 
the part # and VW symbols have been scratched off.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (jhayesvw)*

Is there any kind of part number on the box that might make it easier to track it down at one of the above-mentioned stores.
That's a great price BTW. Still way too expensive, but the cheapest I've seen. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## ahsm (Jan 9, 2007)

I'm still a bit confused as to what I should do. Should I put some grease on the bearings, seal it back up, and reattach it to the block and be happy? Or should I Replace the whole tensioner pulley?
P.S. VgRt6 - amazing writeup, thanks!


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (ahsm)*

Try regreasing it first. It's cheap and easy. If that doesn't work, either buy a new aluminum pulley (with new bearing) or buy a whole new OEM tensioner unit. The pulley alone wil be cheaper and should last longer.


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## ahsm (Jan 9, 2007)

The mysterious sound continues!
I started up my Jetta today in the morning and heard the sound once more, so I took my belt dressing and sprayed a decent amount on the belt that is under the tensioner pulley and to my amazement the sound went away. I revved nicely, and didn't hear the sound anymore. I thought the problem was solved. As I was going to work (about 10 minutes later) I heard the sound again, the same screeching noise. So I am thinking, if it went away because of the belt dressing, is this the belt failing or the tensioner pulley? I called my a parts store and they said it's $38 for a German/European made tensioner pulley. What do you guys think?


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (ahsm)*

It's not the belt, it's the pulley.
Is the $38 pulley the correct size. That would be great if it is. It's the cheapest replacement option I've heard of yet.


----------



## ahsm (Jan 9, 2007)

I just came back from inside. I took off my airbox just for fun, to see the tensioner pulley in more detail. I hope I put the airbox back on correctly








I told the parts guy that I have a 95 Jetta VR6 and how much would a serpentine tensioner pulley cost, he told me $38 CDN.








P.S. I am planning on taking the Jetta to a mechanic to ask him to drive it around/inspect it to see if anything is wrong, and what needs to be fixed. Do mechanics usually charge for this?


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (ahsm)*

Not all do, but plan on paying.


----------



## ahsm (Jan 9, 2007)

Hey, if I understand correctly than you've got a ton of experience with VR6's. What can you tell me (in short) about these engines? Strong? Reliable? Break down easy?


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (ahsm)*

The engines are incredibly strong and reliable, but there are common issues with accessories bolted to it, like the water pump, aux water pump and coilpack. Timing chain guides are also an issue on older engines like the one in your '95.
Do some reading in the archived threads of this forum for more info. After reading about how much power is (relatively) easily produced wih simple forced induction kits and the high mileage that many of us get doing only the regular maintenence and basic repairs, you'll get a good feel for how good the engine really is.


----------



## ahsm (Jan 9, 2007)

Thanks for your reply, I am glad I have a VR6, seems like an awesome engine.
I have a few questions pertaining to the removal of the tensioner pulley. So this is all removed as one peice from the block? 








And once that is removed I can remove the actual pulley?
What is that large bolt being put into the tensioner unit, I opened my hood and I don't have that bolt. 
How do I put the belt back on once I put the tensioner unit back on the block?
Is it possible to remove the tensioner unit from the without the big bolt?
Sorry, it's my first time doing this, so please bear with me. 
P.S. Can I use the same belt, or do I need a new one? The current belt, I sprayed belt dressing on it, causing it to become sticky.


----------



## ahsm (Jan 9, 2007)

One more, sorry guys!








That big bolt, if I understand correctly is to "loosen" the belt so I can take it off, and I think there is a spring inside. Would I be able to slide in a metal rod into the place where you put your bolt in, then slide the belt off?


----------



## BentVR (Jan 27, 2007)

*Re: (ahsm)*

NO, a metal rod would be pretty hard, unless you can slowly put it on, and make sure it'll stay. I don't really know how to explain it, but I really doubt a metal rod would work. I got the bolt I needed at Home Depot for $0.88. It was only 70mm long, but it probably could have been half that. Didn;t take me long to replace the belt and put in the GAP aftermarket pulley.


----------



## ahsm (Jan 9, 2007)

There's still a few things I don't understand. Do I need a new belt or can I put the old belt on? And should I replace the current belt with a new one, or can I use the old belt? And I can put some grease on the bearings right? I don't need to put a new pulley right away. Or would it be better to put a new pulley?
One more, that big bolt... do I just screw it in clockwise?


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (ahsm)*

You can reuse the old belt if it's in good condition. If it's very old, then replace it.
You can put grease in the bearing. You'll need to carefully remove the seals first and make sure they're installed correctly.
That bolt doesn't come with the car. You need to buy one at HomeDepot, Lowes or another hardware store. It threads in clockwise (normal right-hand thread). The big bolt that holds the pulley in place is reverse (left-hand) thread.


----------



## ahsm (Jan 9, 2007)

*Re: (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_You can reuse the old belt if it's in good condition. If it's very old, then replace it.
You can put grease in the bearing. You'll need to carefully remove the seals first and make sure they're installed correctly.
That bolt doesn't come with the car. You need to buy one at HomeDepot, Lowes or another hardware store. It threads in clockwise (normal right-hand thread). The big bolt that holds the pulley in place is reverse (left-hand) thread.

Ok, I understand everything except one thing (sorry, english isn't my first language). 
The bolt that I need to put in to keep the spring in place, I can just normally screw it in, correct?


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (ahsm)*

Yes.


----------



## ahsm (Jan 9, 2007)

Ok, I'll be doing this tomorrow. What would you recommend, buying a new pulley or greasing the current one?


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (ahsm)*

Do you have $100 (Canadian) to throw away? If you do, then just buy a new pulley. Easier and faster. If you would rather keep the money, then try regreasing first. You can always buy a new pulley if that doesn't work.


----------



## ahsm (Jan 9, 2007)

I have some bad news, it is not the tensioner pulley making the screeching noise. It is the part which is labled as coolant pump in this diagram:








It is moving from side to side, and I guess rubbing the belt, causing it to make these noises. Help?


----------



## ahsm (Jan 9, 2007)

I don't know if the diagram is for MKIV VR6's, but I have a 95 VR6.


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (ahsm)*

The diagram is the same for all 12v VR6s.


----------



## Septicmouth (Feb 11, 2007)

Hi. New to the forum here and just wanted to say that I was getting ready to take my wife's jetta into the shop to get the serpentine belt replaced, but after seeing this thread, I will try it myself. 
My question is this........Can I use the bolt to loosen the belt and remove/replace it then take the bolt out and it will be good to go?
Thanks for the thread again, it might just save me alot of loot!
-Donnie


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (Septicmouth)*

Yep, it's that simple. Use the bolt to remove tension, remove and replace belt and then remove the bolt to reapply tension. It can be a challenge to get the belt around the lower pulleys, so I usually raise the front end and access them from underneath. It can be done without doing this, but it's a good bit more difficult.


----------



## Septicmouth (Feb 11, 2007)

Excellent! Thank you again.
One more thing........as I was looking at the tensioner, I noticed that the bearing seals are completely gone!







Are they common enough to buy at autozone or any other auto parts store? The bearings look to be in good shape. I have a feeling this is what caused the belt to crap out....maybe not, the car does have 62,000 miles on it.


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (Septicmouth)*

I doubt you'll be able to find just the seals. You'd be better off just getting a whole new bearing.
BTW, how can you see the bearing seals by looking at the tensioner installed. The seals are not visible (if the bearing guard is in place).


----------



## Septicmouth (Feb 11, 2007)

Well, I don't know if the bearing guard is installed correctly or what, but when I look at it, I see bearings. Now, I don't know if what I am looking at is what I am describing correctly, but it just doesn't look right.


----------



## Septicmouth (Feb 11, 2007)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

This was the best pic I could take.......


----------



## jemgti (Jan 6, 2007)

*Re: (Septicmouth)*

Hard to tell from the pic, but it looks like the plastic pulley wheel is totally gone and you are running right on the hub. Mine did this. The wheel disintegrated and the tensioner seized up shortly thereafter.


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (Septicmouth)*

I agree. I don't see most of the pulley. You're likely going to have to get an aftermarket aluminum pulley (IM me for more details) or a whole new OEM tensioner.


----------



## Septicmouth (Feb 11, 2007)

*Re: (Septicmouth)*

Well I replaced the tensioner and the belt, which really only took me about 45 min. and total cost was about $175 (for OEM parts). Thanks again, I am very greatful I stumbled across this forum. I will definitely keep this on my favorites.

Oh, just in case you were wondering, here is the old one. Blows my mind to think my wife was driving her car like this.

















Cheers, Don


----------



## chameleon78 (Oct 31, 2006)

*Re: (Septicmouth)*

^^yikes







I thought mine was bad when i replaced it...


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (Septicmouth)*

Wow. That one is definitely toast.








Make sure to keep the old tensioner around. If the new one fails, then you can pay only $70 for a new aluminum pulley and it'll be better than new. If you want to get rid of it, send it to me and I'll pay for the shipping.


----------



## sterkrazzy (Dec 4, 2006)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

my car makes some weird noises at idle that sounds like a belt, sounds kinda like a duck really, but sometimes it makes a noise, and sometimes it doesnt








car has 56k miles on it....should i do this?


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (sterkrazzy)*

I would. It can't hurt.


----------



## remman4 (Feb 4, 2003)

well, I bought the German Auto Parts aluminum pulley about 15k miles ago and it has started to whine and occasionally seize causing a nice squeal on my new belt...
anybody know what replacement bearing to use for that piece? sources?


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (remman4)*

The bearing number for the OEM pulley appears earlier in this thread (6203?). It may be the same for the GAP pulley.


----------



## remman4 (Feb 4, 2003)

I was hoping that was the case, but wanted some extra internet corroboration comfort...


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (remman4)*

Have you tried to regrease the GAP pulley bearing?


----------



## monowind (Feb 11, 2007)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Great! My mkIII VR6 had some noise by the pully.
So I just replace the tensionor at the dealershop today.
I will try DIY later. Thanks.


----------



## RavinJetta (Mar 31, 2002)

*Re: (remman4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *remman4* »_well, I bought the German Auto Parts aluminum pulley about 15k miles ago and it has started to whine and occasionally seize causing a nice squeal on my new belt...
anybody know what replacement bearing to use for that piece? sources?

GAP actually sells the replaceable bearings and says that the bearings will not fit in the OEM pulley. I think the bearing is like 10 bucks and is easy to replace.


----------



## Soren (Oct 31, 2000)

I tried regreasing mine when I had some screetchy whining. I ended up screwing up the bearing seals and had to get a new tensioner. Luckily it was only $75 shipped, so not too painful. The painful part was realizing it was not my tensioner pulley bearing at all, but my A/C clutch. Hooray for thorough troubleshooting!


----------



## remman4 (Feb 4, 2003)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

Nah Gary, not yet...
this week is the first it has been above freezing in a while...
I get far too frustrated working in that cramped engine bay when I can't feel my fingers!
I'll probably just source a replacement bearing from GAP, my last regreasing venture didn't go as smoothly as I had hoped...
Good looking out on the GAP replacement bearing, I would have wondered why the OE replacement bearing wouldn't work.


----------



## vrisk (Jan 1, 2005)

im sent


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## VWPVR6 (Feb 23, 2007)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

I replaced the water pump on my VR6, just wanted to say that even though i had to lift the engine, the engineering for the serpentine belt made life a lot easier.


----------



## Ryan Sickles (Mar 10, 2005)

Guess who's going to be doing this tomorrow.








I actually just got done regreasing the starters sungear today. The first time I did it I used a light-medium weight synthetic grease for cycles, only lasted about 2500miles and started grinding again. Went with the Pennzoil axle/wheel bearing grease this time around, so hoping for best.

Preferences on the viscosity of the grease for the tensioner bearing?


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (Ryan Sickles)*

I used the same wheel bearng grease that I used for the starter.


----------



## boogs (Jun 4, 2006)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

I bet this is the little bastard that makes me car sound like ive got crickets or something under the hood.

thanks for the diy


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## Ryan Sickles (Mar 10, 2005)

Only took about 30mins, most of that time was digging through a tub of some misc. nuts/bolts to find one that fit.
I noted that the torque required to remove the pulley from the tensioner was about 41-43ft lbs., so that's what I tightened it back up to. I wouldn't worry about damaging the bearing because all the tension is just on the inner-race and nothing more... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## vr6_d00d (Oct 12, 2006)

i just got tired of the oem one and bought a yarrowpsort pulley. looks very solid and durable. however when i installed it with the lettering out there was still a whine, but when i turned it around it seems to have dissapeared. am i just hearing things or is there a specific direction? 



_Modified by vr6_d00d at 3:59 PM 2-28-2007_


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (Ryan Sickles)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Ryan Sickles* »_
I noted that the torque required to remove the pulley from the tensioner was about 41-43ft lbs., so that's what I tightened it back up to. I wouldn't worry about damaging the bearing because all the tension is just on the inner-race and nothing more... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

It's not the bearing you need to worry about, it's the aluminum threads of the tensioner.


----------



## masonr (Mar 1, 2007)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

i know this is an old post but was just wondering, if i am reinstalling a new belt is there any trick on how to get it on, and what to use....i tried getting it on the different pulleys and the last pulley is beyond tight. i know its the right belt and in the right sequence.
thanks


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (masonr)*

I put the car on ramps and install the belt from the bottom up. The flange on the OD of the crank pulley makes it next to impossible to get them belt on it last without maxing out the tension removal on the tensioner. It's much easier if you put it on the crank pulley first and around the tensioner pulley last.


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## vr6_d00d (Oct 12, 2006)

is it possible that an old belt is causing a whining noise when the car is under acceleration? i changed my tensioner pulley, but there still is a "supercharger" sound lol. or maybe its one of the bearings on one of the pumps


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (vr6_d00d)*

It's probably a bearing in one of the accessories.


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## mike corrado (Jun 19, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (RadoBoi)*

is there an easier way to add this to my favorites other than posting?








noob
i hope someone just slipped an lsd into my car last night while i was sleeping


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## VR6ix (Oct 27, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (mike corrado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mike corrado* »_is there an easier way to add this to my favorites other than posting?









I hate Voretex for that, too. Okay, maybe I don't hate Vortex, maybe it's ZeroForum that I hate.
I'd suggest starting a .txt file and just copy-past the links of interesting threads you want to save. I've lost many a thread from my "Watched Topics" list that were DIY's that I planned on doing later (like the mkIV key-fob antenna thread). Now I'm stuck trying to remember some keywords to use when searching, when all I really wanted to do was add the particular thread to a list of bookmarked links.

Now, to keep this on topic... there is an NTN building not too far from me. One day I'm going to find the original tensioner pulley bearing (made by NTN, it was a 6203-LHA I believe), walk into their office, and say "hey, here's the original bearing, what exactly are the speed ratings for this unit? I need a 6203-size bearing that can withstand repeated 21,000 rpm applications, in a moderately high-heat environment, running with the shields in place: what do you recommend as a replacement bearing? or, what sort of lubricant should I use on the bearing?"
I'll let you all know when and how this turns out. Don't hold yer breath.


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## LeDubber (Jan 15, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VR6ix)*

I just did this today and it worked like a charm, saved me a good chunk of cash too. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## RavinJetta (Mar 31, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (mike corrado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mike corrado* »_is there an easier way to add this to my favorites other than posting?








noob
i hope someone just slipped an lsd into my car last night while i was sleeping
















You can click on the track this topic on the top left of the screen so you don't have to post.


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## [email protected] (Jun 21, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Brecken)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Brecken* »_mines makin all kinds of friggin noise...almost like a supercharger















anyway i need to prelace the belt...so i'll hit this while im there. awesome post! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

Same thing happend to me! Fixed now.


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## ghop14 (May 25, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... ([email protected])*

my raddo has the "supercharger" sound that is before my tensioner melted and some how i made it home with the belt traveling around the peg which the bearings sit on, replacing it shortly.....i thought it was my power stearing pump making the noise, after i removed all my ac componets and put in the new belt........we'll see if it was the tensioner or both once i replace it and my water pump while im at it.......
oh also at idle my engine seemed to rev up and down sometimes......any ideas what that would be?


_Modified by ghop14 at 12:12 AM 3-21-2007_


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## Schmitty (Aug 28, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (ghop14)*

I had constant squealing. I bought an M8x70mm hex at HD for a buck and borrowed some grease from work. I had to rotate the clamps for the fuel line out of the way. They should be ok in their new location, right? I did notice that I got some hissing as I rotated the upper one, but they appear not to be leaking.
Also, I don't have any degreaser, so I scraped out the old and packed in the new grease. I think this is the wrong thing to do, but I wasn't about to stop trying to fix this problem. Anyway, it's all reinstalled, with no squeaks/squeals.
Post up with your opinion about repulling it and doing a full degrease/regrease because of the mixture I have now.
Thanks!


----------



## Schmitty (Aug 28, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Schmitty)*

Started squealing as soon as I started it up this morning








Why would it stop and then start again?


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## VR6ix (Oct 27, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Schmitty)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Schmitty* »_Started squealing as soon as I started it up this morning








Why would it stop and then start again?










all the grease you just repacked got flung out of the bearing when it was spining. it's annoying, huh?








I've used synthetic motor oil as lube and while it wasn't much better than grease, it wasn't any worse.


----------



## Schmitty (Aug 28, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VR6ix)*

Well, the dealership said they'd take a look-see free of charge. I guess that will tell me if it's the tensioner pulley or another accessory making the noise. I fit is the tensioner I guess I will get the GAP one. Is there another source for the bearing+pully? I didn’t see much hard evidence in the thread of another solution.


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## LC5P_GLX (Jul 4, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VR6ix)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VR6ix* »_

all the grease you just repacked got flung out of the bearing when it was spining. it's annoying, huh?








I've used synthetic motor oil as lube and while it wasn't much better than grease, it wasn't any worse.

x2 - wow this is still ongoing for alot a people eh? I bought/installed the GAP one, and I don't thinks I've ever looked at it since - 2 yrs ago


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## ghop14 (May 25, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (SoulJer74)*

where can you get this GAP one?


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## Schmitty (Aug 28, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (ghop14)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ghop14* »_where can you get this GAP one?

GAP


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## f1forkvr6 (Jun 10, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (SoulJer74)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SoulJer74* »_
x2 - wow this is still ongoing for alot a people eh? I bought/installed the GAP one, and I don't thinks I've ever looked at it since - 2 yrs ago

This kind of bearing will eventually need replacement/servicing - I think it's only good to 12k RPMs, and if you "sometimes" approach the rev limiter, you'll easily exceed this.
FWIW, I'm running the Adirondack Auto parts version of this pulley, and have replaced the bearing once - first one started making noises after about 40k miles ... I've repacked it and kept it as a backup to the one currently installed.


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## f1forkvr6 (Jun 10, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Schmitty)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Schmitty* »_Is there another source for the bearing+pully? I didn’t see much hard evidence in the thread of another solution.

Adirondack Auto Parts
I don't see it on their site right now, but call them - they may still have some. Also try Yarrowsport


_Modified by f1forkvr6 at 6:20 PM 3-27-2007_


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## thecreeper (Oct 26, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (f1forkvr6)*

They have it:
http://www.germanautoparts.com...92803 








As well as a replacement bearing. 


_Modified by thecreeper at 9:10 PM 5-7-2007_


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## ricardo (Feb 19, 1999)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (thecreeper)*

I found another one here for 65 bucks complete..
http://www.autohausaz.com/sear...embly
well the complete belt tensioner by a different manuf...so can it be an worse??

















_Modified by ricardo at 1:03 PM 5-8-2007_


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## EMunEEE (Mar 28, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (ricardo)*

Just did this today (greased the pulley bearing & belt). http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Perfect DIY


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## DubWarz (Jan 26, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

I did this today after putting it off for about a year. 
The crickets are gone!! I am very happy with this DIY, Thank You VgRt6! Have a







on me! 
A note though, my pulley bolt was not a 15mm, but a 9/16. Weird







.
We'll see how long it lasts. The bearing seemed to be in really good shape, no flat spots, still smooth, just not any grease left. If it goes again, I'm going to get the GAP pulley.
W3rd to your moms http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## lui16blue (Oct 18, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (RadoBoi)*

will this work on a 1.8T jetta 2000.?
dint read the hole pages just the first so was wondering if i could use this same procrduere
tahnsk


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## DubWarz (Jan 26, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (lui16blue)*

Not so much as the tensioner pulley for the VR6 is engine specific. I haven't really heard of it going out on the 1.8's.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (DubWarz)*

It can be done on a 1.8T tensioner, but the question is does it really need to?


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## lui16blue (Oct 18, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_It can be done on a 1.8T tensioner, but the question is does it really need to?

ok i got you, im not sure because when i looked at the belt it has craking on it in oder words the lines are not solid they have cracks in each.did that made sence.?


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (lui16blue)*

It's "normal" for the belt to have surface cracks after a bunch of miles. As long as they're not too deep, then it's OK to keep using the belt. I've gone 100k miles with each of my belts and after 100k, they had LOTS of surface cracks, but still wee far from breaking.


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Thanks for the DIY. Just re-lubed my bearing and the cricket noises on cold startups are gone. The bearing looked like it was completely dry after 50,000 miles. If I get another 20,000 miles out of it I'll be happy. Then I'll just buy a whole new pulley when the noises come back - since we all know you can never get rid of noises in a VW forever








http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (phatvw)*

You'd be surprised how long the bearing can last after regreasing as long as it was regreased before any major damage occurred. Mine was VERY noisy before I regreased it. That was almost 100k miles ago!


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## rigger (Jul 25, 2000)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Hey there. 
VR6, 2001 Jetta.
I have a squeak coming from my serpentine belt and/or accessories... 
I just did the quick, easy, Preventative Re-Lube on the tensioner bearing in hopes that it would solve the squeaking... 
It didn't...
I do notice that the sound changes when the AC clutch engages.
Anyone had a squeaky AC pulley before?
Anything to do to fix/isolate the squeak? Or is it a matter of just driving it until something breaks? (waterpump, AC, etc?)
thanks!
Jeff.


----------



## 02h20 (Oct 30, 2000)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (rigger)*

Went to change the serpentine belt on a 1999 Eurovan (with the 12V engine), and realized that the outer couple of grooves of the tensioner pulley had been abraded somehow and the belt has a couple of ribs missing because of it. Everything has been working fine with no noises...the belt has about 90K on it and is glazed and cracked, which is why I was replacing it.
I went ahead and lubed the bearing per the DIY in this thread and reinstalled it and the old belt, since I didn't want to ruin the new one.
Here's my question...is the metal pulley sold by German Auto going to fit the EV version of this engine? The tensioners sure look to be the same general configuration and the belts appear to be the same width, but I don't have two to compare. Anybody know?
Thanks,


----------



## new2 (Aug 8, 2006)

posting for future reference for myself


----------



## jfvr6 (May 22, 2006)

*Re: (ahsm)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ahsm* »_I have some bad news, it is not the tensioner pulley making the screeching noise. It is the part which is labled as coolant pump in this diagram:








It is moving from side to side, and I guess rubbing the belt, causing it to make these noises. Help?









My vr JUST did this thing to me to...belt got off the tensionner pulley by about less than a inch
good thing for me i was less than a km from home!
car is sitting in garage and waiting to see what happens here...good thing i have a beater


----------



## jfvr6 (May 22, 2006)

anyone?


----------



## FaelinGL (Nov 28, 2004)

*Re: (jfvr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jfvr6* »_
My vr JUST did this thing to me to...belt got off the tensionner pulley by about less than a inch
good thing for me i was less than a km from home!
car is sitting in garage and waiting to see what happens here...good thing i have a beater









What is your question? Are you asking if your water pump is bad? If the shaft is moving then the answer is yes.
Mike


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (jfvr6)*

What do you want to know?


----------



## jfvr6 (May 22, 2006)

well my pulley is moving a little side to side (not perfect rotation) and i am wondering if it is the pulley bearing or the pump that is shot...
and what kind of work does require both trouble
thank you


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (jfvr6)*

If you're talking about the water pump, then the bearing is a part of the pump. You can only replace the bearing by replacing the whle pump.
It's a fairly big job and requires that the engine be either raised or lowered. There's a DIY for doing the job on a MKIV VR6 in the link in my signature. There should also be a DIY for the B4 Passat somewhere on the Vortex too. IIRC, it was written by izzo, but I may be wrong.


----------



## Kevin0323 (May 3, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Can't you just spray wd-40 in there like kahulaVR6 did?


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Kevin0323)*

In the bearing? I wouldn't. WD-40 is not a bearing lubricant. It's primarily for freeing rusted parts and discpling water. It will lubricate in the short term and make the noise go away, but likely won't last very long.


----------



## Kevin0323 (May 3, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Thanks! The dealership wanted $260 to replace the belt tensioner. I found the part on BimmerParts for $60. Talk about saving money by doing it yourself.


----------



## Kevin0323 (May 3, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Kevin0323)*

Anyone have information for changing on a 2.0? I know I'm in the wrong section but I've searched and can't find anything. There is no hole for the bolt on top.


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Kevin0323)*

The 2.0 change is similar, except that instead of using a bolt to relieve tension, you use a wrench of the like to apply leverage to the tensioner to loosen the belt. Once the blt is off, you can either put a new one on or remove the tensioner by removing the bolts. Torque specs for the 2.0 should be the same as the VR6.


----------



## Kevin0323 (May 3, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Awesome, thanks. I did a search for the wrench and found more information here... Looks like I can loosen the tension with a crescent wrench. 
http://forum.rekordsrekords.co...97050


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Kevin0323)*

You can use the crescent wrench. Be VERY careful when removing the tension and watch out if the wrench slips.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 24, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Is the serpentine belt and tensioner different for a 12V VR6 Eurovan than it would be for a 12V VR6 GTI?


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (SMOOTH)*

Should be the same thing AFAIK.


----------



## Dimon VR6 (Nov 7, 2007)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Just wanted to thank VgRt6 for this thread. I know it's old news to some but I just bought a 2000 MKIV VR6 Jetta in Sept. and have found this forum to be invaluable in ironing out some of the kinks I inherited with this car.
I washed the car on Sat and started to hear a squeel from the tensioner pulley. I am not sure these events were related but the car has 80k so I decided to revisit this DIY.
Great info!!!! I was able to pull it off and repack the pulley thanks to VgRt6's detailed info.
Squeel is gone! I think I got to it just in time, the berrings were bone dry :-(
I love this forum!!
Trevor


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Dimon VR6)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## BanamexDF (Jul 31, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

I'm pretty sure this is the problem to my squeak on cold starts. I'll be doing it this weekend, thanks for the DIY dude! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## boykinla (Mar 19, 2008)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Gary,
I believe that I'm having the same squeak as described in this DIY. I was curious if the procedure could also be performed on my 2003 GTI 24v VR6? When looking at the tensioner it looks similar but not the same as in your photos.
Great post by the way. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## btbucy (Dec 24, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

$300 bucks in my pocket. You rule!


----------



## toasteroven (Apr 6, 2008)

*Re: (jfvr6)*

'00 Jetta vr6
my car is making a terrible clicking noise and it is very obviously coming from the Serpentine belt. what appears to be the coolant pump is rotating off kilter, causing what appears to be the tensioner pulley to slide up and click back into place periodically. 
Has anyone had a similar problem?
does anyone know what would cause the coolant pump to rotate off kilter?
any diagnoses?
thanks


----------



## MK4VR6DS (Mar 18, 2008)

I have a quick question. My serp belt snapped about a week ago, and i went out and got a new idler pulley, and belt. Got it on today, drove around for like 15 minutes, and i started hearing a noise from the engine bay. I checked and noticed that the brand new serp belt i just put on was completely shredded. It looked like one of the sides of the double sided belt was completely ripped off. I am pretty sure it has to do with my coolant pump pulley because it is completely flat (instead of groovy like all the other pulleys) and it was shaking up and down violently when my car was running. Also I'm not sure if it was from the pulley, but it looked as if it was pouring out engine coolant onto the street.








Anyways I was just wondering how difficult it was to change out the pulley (if thats all i need to do) and if there's any other problems you think i might have. I'm a kid on a budget so an at home fix would be best, if possible. Thanks guys! Without you i'd be completely lost. Also when i was pulling into my garage, my ABS, EPC, ASR, and suprisingly my E-Brake light all turned on. Is all hope lost at this point, cause i'm seriously about to give up on my jetta all together. I have a 00 12v VR6, looks just like the one in the pictures for this guide.
EDIT: heres a quick picture of what by brand new belt looks like after less than 5 miles of driving.... (Belt was originally ribbed on both sides, 2 of the ribs were actually ripped off before i pulled it out of my engine bay.)
















My car ran fine for about 10 minutes then the belt went crazy and i stopped driving. pullet the belt off and it looked like this. ugh PLEASE HELP!

_Modified by MK4VR6DS at 5:16 PM 4-18-2008_


_Modified by MK4VR6DS at 5:17 PM 4-18-2008_


----------



## darisd (Dec 20, 2002)

*Re: (MK4VR6DS)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MK4VR6DS* »_
My car ran fine for about 10 minutes then the belt went crazy and i stopped driving. pullet the belt off and it looked like this. ugh PLEASE HELP!


Whoah, what side of the belt are we looking at there? I saw your other post... I am looking at the belt routing diagram, and one side of the belt contacts the tensioner pulley and the other touches the water pump. Which side is the destroyed side?


----------



## 10001110101 (Aug 7, 2007)

*Re: (darisd)*

Just did this today... like white trash in the hotel parking lot.... easy as cake. Soo much better than before. Just pay attention when you put the bearing seals back in, make sure all the little lips sit just right.


----------



## jint (Apr 6, 2008)

anyone knows what the labour time and cost for replacing the belt is, mine's got cracks already i need to do it ASAP. Shouldn't even drive it.


----------



## AZV6 (May 3, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

I repacked mine a few years back. I will say one thing. No matter what grease you use it will do it again regardless due to the fact that it is all hydrocarbon grease which has a temp of only 250F.
I used Dupont Krytox 215 instead. It is not a hydrocarbon grease. It withstands 3-4 times the load and [email protected]
You only pack it about 1/4-1/2 of what you would fill with normal grease or as shown packed it in.
If you can get your hands on some, it is hands down the best grease on the market. You have to special order it through a dupont dealer and it is not cheap, 8 oz tube is $115 But I use it my shop so I pack a lot of bearings with this. 
I will never have to worry about this thing. I will check it in another 1-2 years and if it needs a clean and repack then I will do so.
Also cleaning is sooo crucial to a long lasting bearing. Brake cleaner works fine. Just make sure you remove both seals, clean them as well. and some compressed air. Never pack a bearing unless it is fully dried as well.


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (AZV6)*

Mine has been fine for over 120k miles after regreasing.


----------



## AZV6 (May 3, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Awesome. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I always go overboard on idler pulleys. Luckily that one does not see a lot of load, mainly why it is ok for 120K. 
I have one on a alfa romeo which fails left and right, been repacking them with krytox and no fails to date.


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (AZV6)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## FGuri32 (Dec 26, 2007)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

hey man so i echarged my a/c and it still didnt work. i removed a plug my the place where you recharge the A/C and put it back on and my a/c started working again. can you tell me what the name of the plug is or the whoke part? heres a pik(the thing is indicated by a red arrow.


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## KransDubber (Apr 13, 2008)

I love these DIY threads. I only looked here because I wasnt familiar with how to use the tensioner in my water pump replacement. Thanks for the info!


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (jettamkIVvr6)*

That looks like the A/C pressure switch. It lets the ECU know that the refrigerant pressure is too low so that it doesn't let the compressor run (and kill itself).

_Quote, originally posted by *jettamkIVvr6* »_hey man so i echarged my a/c and it still didnt work. i removed a plug my the place where you recharge the A/C and put it back on and my a/c started working again. can you tell me what the name of the plug is or the whoke part? heres a pik(the thing is indicated by a red arrow.


----------



## FGuri32 (Dec 26, 2007)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Thanks man. Do you know where i can get a new one? and do you think its why my A/C is having problems?
Thank you


----------



## cg00jettavr6 (Dec 8, 2008)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

your post was awesome!!! it was exactly what I needed! you rock my world right now!!!


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## JonasnDallas (Dec 14, 2008)

this is a relatively "*Easy*" Procedure. If you have to replace the Tension Pulley assembly, its average price is 175. Might as well replace the belt while you are doing this project.


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## JonasnDallas (Dec 14, 2008)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (jettamkIVvr6)*

The only thing that would affect your A/C, (in this post) would be if your belt has slung off. But if that is the case, you would immediately get a warning on your dash, your temp would shoot up, etc..


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## bnh142 (Nov 27, 2007)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Thank you for this writeup!





















I used your instructions very successfully tonight. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## ricardo (Feb 19, 1999)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (bnh142)*

FYI it looks like the pulley is available again thru autozone $14.99!!
http://www.autozone.com/R,1557...l.htm


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## sebich1 (Dec 10, 2007)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (ricardo)*

i didn t read all the pages ..so i dont know if i will reapeat this information ....
but i found also another thread (http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3928536) where the guy explained that he bought a SKF bearing ..better than the OEM one ..the price is 6.71$...
http://www.wbds.com/htm/6203-2ZJEM-SKF.htm
hopefully it will help someone ..


----------



## ricardo (Feb 19, 1999)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (sebich1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sebich1* »_i didn t read all the pages ..so i dont know if i will reapeat this information ....
but i found also another thread (http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3928536) where the guy explained that he bought a SKF bearing ..better than the OEM one ..the price is 6.71$...
http://www.wbds.com/htm/6203-2ZJEM-SKF.htm
hopefully it will help someone ..

















nice find 
btw Autozone called.. they dont have the pulley for 14.99


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## KBJettaMan (Jan 12, 2009)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (ricardo)*

Hi, thank you for this very valuable post...was very helpful.
Though I have a quick question...one other pully is freezing on me, which caused the belt to break today.
I changed the tensioner pully, but one other is still stuck. So I was just wondering,
with experience of one, which other would freeze do you think? BTW, I did loose all AF fluid after I started the car, with that tensioner pully replaced. 
Any help or insite is appreciated.
THank you [email protected]!!


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (KBJettaMan)*

If you lost antifreeze, then it's probably the water pump.


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## cmrguitar504 (Feb 7, 2008)

Thank you so much! Solved a horrible noise in the engine for the price of a $.92 bolt and wasn't too advanced for a quick dad and son job.
Quick note: on my 2001 Jetta VR6, the bolt on the pulley itself was 16mm, not 15mm as was on this 1999.5. Thanks again!


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## VRnasty08 (Jun 19, 2008)

ok so i plan on doing this to my car.i have a 2000 vr and my a/c is messed up.i believe that my compressor is dead haha and dont want to buy a new one and replace.so i saw they offered a accessory belt kit for cars without factory a/c.was wondering if i could put this on mine.and take my compressor off.i use the windows down idea thats why they are there.haha.and the belt would be shorter right?since that removes some tension.like from spinning the compressor pulley.maybe free up some hp?idk give me some info


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (VRnasty08)*

You can delete the A/C and use a shorter belt. That doesn't remove tension from the belt, it remove a rotating resistance. That reduces the parasitic loss of power from the accessories.


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## bigmeeks (Jan 28, 2009)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Many thanks for the write up and great pics. I'm only moderately handy and I replaced the tensioner today in about 20 minutes in the snow. My original intention was to lube the bearings, but in my case there were no bearings or pulley left. I'm amazed the belt was still intact, and that it was still somewhat working. 
VW of Alexandria just outside DC wanted $600 for this (no lie) job which now in retrospect seems almost criminal. 
Replacement aftermarket tensioner cost $70 at autozone and the bolt was .70, thanks again!


----------



## Badassruben (Jun 19, 2008)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

hey check your ims


----------



## Grom Hellscream (Feb 2, 2009)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

awesome write up.


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## Badassruben (Jun 19, 2008)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

do you know where i can find a new tensioner pulley for a 2.8 vr6?


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Badassruben)*

Autozone for a plastic pulley. gruvenparts.com or germanautoparts.com for an aluminum pulley.


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## powerswhat (Dec 6, 2007)

Wow im glad i found this forum. My car has been making a loud noise off and on for a few days. it really almost does sound like a supercharger (not in a good way). it always happens after i turn the ac off, which makes me think its not the serpentine belt, but sometimes it just happens out of nowhere. Oh and the car has ahd a fairly recent water pump and serpentine belt (within 40,000 miles, maybe not so recent). This noise hurts me







Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## rmac2877 (May 7, 2008)

*Re: (powerswhat)*

alright so i did this diy and it worked smoothly. I go to start it up and its still making the noise. Does it take time for it to go away? Or could it be another pulley?
please help, this noise is really pissing me off
thanks, ryan


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (rmac2877)*

It should go away immediately. Sounds like one of the other pulleys/bearings is bad.


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## peter415 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif thanx bro http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## golfvariant (Nov 18, 2003)

*Re: (peter415)*

Awesome DIY man!!!
I have an 01 VR with 72k on it. I made it a bit simpler and didn't remove the entire tensioner. Just pulled the 16mm bolt after loosening the belt. The pulley was as dry as a bone!!!
Do these guys have a tendency to leak? If this happens again I may replace the bearing and press in a new one.


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## ultimaniac (Dec 26, 2000)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4464918 


_Modified by ultimaniac at 11:00 AM 7-8-2009_


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## AutoX-FIB (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (ultimaniac)*

Damn it, looks like I have no choice but to buy a new tensioner, even if I don't need one.







I must have tightened down the bolt too much when I was releasing the tensioner. The projection the hole was on SPLIT and I wasn't even using a socket wrench! Just an open ended wrench.








Anyone come across a price better then $80 for an OEM tensioner? 
I saw that on GAP. I saw the aftermarket one from Autohausaz.com, but I'd rather have an OEM if it's only $10 more.


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## Molotov_Maton (Jul 22, 2009)

*Re: (AutoX-FIB)*

Go to this website and see.http://www.autopartsworld.com/volkswagen_parts/golf/belttensioner/2002.html


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## jltjetta (Aug 2, 2009)

Any other ideas? tried this and still squeaking - just when it starts up and accelerates.. possibly a new pulley?


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## FaelinGL (Nov 28, 2004)

*Re: (jltjetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jltjetta* »_Any other ideas? tried this and still squeaking - just when it starts up and accelerates.. possibly a new pulley?

You are sure it's coming from the tensioner pulley? If so, try changing the belt.
Mike


----------



## jltjetta (Aug 2, 2009)

*Re: (FaelinGL)*

Got a new belt about 2 months ago b/c when the a/c was on and car was first started it made a noise but when you turned the a/c off and back on it was gone. The new belt didn't help that - still does it and now it is squeaking too.. possibly a whole new Belt Tensioner Assembly? We are in the process of changing the ignition coil pack now.. thught we'd try to kill 2 birds w/ one stone..


----------



## jltjetta (Aug 2, 2009)

*Re: (FaelinGL)*

Oh also - not sure that is exactly it - seems to be coming from that area and we have tried wd 40 and it helps a little bit.. the pulley is what the mechanic has guessed, but we haven't had great luck w/ mechanics lately... 

Lindsey


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (jltjetta)*

Take the belt off and start the car (don't let it run for very long). If the squeak is gone, then one of the accessories may have a bearing problem.


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## jltjetta (Aug 2, 2009)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

Awesome, thanks!


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

When the belt is off, spin the other accessory pullies to see if one has extra resistance or there seems to be play in the shaft and bearing. This will be difficult to do on the A/C compressor because of the magnetic clutch. After the tensioner pulley bearing, the water pump bearing is the most common problem. The water pump is the pulley just below and to the rear of the tensioner pulley.


----------



## 5aprilc (Aug 6, 2008)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

Gary, a quick question. I have to change my tensioner also, I wanted to know if I can just replace the bearing instead of the whole assembly? But with the car running looking at the assembly, I can see it shake and the belt almost looks to be skipping off of the pulley. It would be a lot cheapier to just replace the bearing thats for sure. (If I can get away with just replacing that) Thanks.


----------



## 5aprilc (Aug 6, 2008)

*Re: (5aprilc)*

Yeah scratch that, the pulley is just as expensive as the whole assembly. That's what I get for not searching first. I guess I just assumed that the pulley would be a lot cheaper but a dollar less, WTF. Seriously!


----------



## sebich1 (Dec 10, 2007)

*Re: (5aprilc)*

what ??
the bearing is like 7$ 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3928536
and the whole assembley is 70-90$..
not really the same price , isn t it ?
edit : i remembered also that Autozone _could _ have this pulley for 14.99$...some people could buy one ..and other was told that it was not available anymore ...










_Modified by sebich1 at 5:30 PM 8-5-2009_


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (5aprilc)*

You can also buy a new plastic pulley and bearing for $10-15 at PepBoys, AutoZone, etc. There was a thread about it a while ago. I think silentdub started it.


----------



## 5aprilc (Aug 6, 2008)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

Yeah I went onto the GAP website the only pulley/bearing that I saw was like $79, and I know that Autozone doesn't sell the pulley/bearing by itself. Which means that I am forced to buy the whole unit. Pepboys you say might have the bearing. It's worth checking out, I would rather just replace that, over regreasing or replacing the whole thing. Thanks guys.


----------



## sebich1 (Dec 10, 2007)

*Re: (5aprilc)*

if your pulley is still ok (NOT MELTED) and you can remove your bearing..i will recommend to change only the bearing ..i found it at 8.7$ on amazon or 6.5 $ at WBDS....
sometime on some car with a lot of miles ..the bearing and the pulley are just stuck together because of the heat and formed one piece. in this case you have to change pulley with the bearing.
you could try also regreasing the bearing ... if i remmembered corectly , Gary with 271 000 miles regreased several time his bearing without changing it...yet !!!


----------



## 5aprilc (Aug 6, 2008)

*Re: (sebich1)*

Isn't pulley and bearing one of the same, or is pulley the correct term for assembly? (Probably a stupid question)


----------



## sebich1 (Dec 10, 2007)

*Re: (5aprilc)*

basically you have the tensioner( with tha spring inside), the pulley and the bearing....the bearing is inside the pulley ...
but you can change only the bearing if you want ..in a previous post i put you a link :
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3928536
read that first ...you will understand better ...
then, read with attention the DIY of Gary ..the first page..you will understand everything ...


----------



## 5aprilc (Aug 6, 2008)

*Re: (sebich1)*

Thanks, I appreciate your input. Atleast I know I can trust what you tell me. Since it always seems to be you that's yelling at me for not understanding something.


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (5aprilc)*

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3493170


----------



## 5aprilc (Aug 6, 2008)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

No Autozone doesn't have that bearing, I work there and I haven't seen it, atleast at the Somersworth one that I work at.


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## vr6pilot (Jul 5, 2000)

*Re: (5aprilc)*

I want just the plastic pulley/bearing assembly. I have the Gruven unit but, well, fact is...its a tad heavier. yeah, I'm a weight-weenie but why put lighter pulley sets on the VR and then add on some weight with the pulley? Otherwise, it (the gruvenparts unit) is a very high-quality piece although the bearing started making some squeaky noise not long after installing.
Who sells just the oem pulley??


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (vr6pilot)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vr6pilot* »_
Who sells just the oem pulley?? 

Autozone used to, but doesn't anymore AFAIK. The only other option I know of is to buy an entire tensioner unit (which obviously comes with a new pulley).


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## 5aprilc (Aug 6, 2008)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

Which that entire tensioner unit, goes for about $80 bucks. I have yet to check out pepboys to see if I can just get the OEM pulley with the bearing. I don't feel like poping the seals off and regreasing the bearing.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (5aprilc)*

Why not? It's a piece of cake. It can't hurt to try it first if you're thinking about buying a new pulley anyway.


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## jltjetta (Aug 2, 2009)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

Well after a whole fisaco w/ a brand new ignition coil -the shop again said it was the tensioner pulley making the noise - we bought one today and still squeals - so i am assuming the water pump? is this hard for amatuers? if so i will have to let her go back to the shop








Thnx


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## jltjetta (Aug 2, 2009)

*Re: (jltjetta)*

We also just pulled the serp belt off and started it and noise is gone... 
does a tensioner pulley need to run for a few mins when we first put it on or should it start up right away w/ no noise if that was the problem?
Thnx again!


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (jltjetta)*

A new pulley should be silent immediately.
See the water pump DIY in the link in my signature for how to replace the pump. It's not a fun job.


----------



## toscar (Aug 15, 2009)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Does this get rid of the squeaking when the car is turned on and A/C is turned on?


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## jltjetta (Aug 2, 2009)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (toscar)*

nope







it is generally when we first start it.. thats when it is more loud and annoying - then it silents a lot - more just when i accelerate is when you can hear it.


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## mira_alex (Jun 3, 2009)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (jltjetta)*

My car has been making that weird noise and i was told that i need to replace the belt, so i got one from GAP, but from reading this should i just re grease the bearing or get new one and grease them, i have a MKIII Jetta with 125k miles on it, also how do i remove the air box.


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## FigureFive (Dec 21, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (mira_alex)*

Anyone know if this repair would apply to a 24v as well?


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## chillywilly521 (Apr 17, 2007)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Great DIY.
My tensioner has been screaming for about 6 months. It finally really started to make some noise so I thought it was time to finally do something about it. Upon investigation I saw the entire pully had disintegrated and the belt was running over the bare bearing hub. How the belt didn't shread into a million pieces I won't know. As a result I was forced to get a new tensioner from the dealer at $155 but I get a discount cuz I know someone







so it was only $120. Still they go for $90 on the internet. Still it's all done now and no more supercharge like whine.
FYI, my 2001 GLX used a 45mm bolt to release the tension.
Thanks Again,
Will


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## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (chillywilly521)*

Recently tried loosening the belt tensioner to get any extra fluid out of the power steering pump while draining the system. When I threaded the bolt into the tensioner I could tell it wasn't loosening & there is a piece broken off the back of the tensioner. 
When I go to replace the tensioner is there going to be a problem removing the old/installing the new one since I'm unable to loosen the belt? Or can I just loosen the 3 bolts that secure it to the motor?
____________________________________


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (PrjktRado1)*

You can put a wrench on the pulley bolt and use it to push the pulley arm and remove tension (since the bolt is reverse thread, pivoting the wrench counter-clockwise to remove the tension tightens the bolt, which is good). If you're careful doing this, you can remove the belt. Watch your fingers. Otherwise, just cut the old belt and install a new one.


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## PrjktRado1 (Jul 9, 2009)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Ok good, I just have to figure out who I'm ordering 
this tensioner from. Thanks... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
____________________________


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## chillywilly521 (Apr 17, 2007)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (PrjktRado1)*

After replacing my tensioner I noticed my belt was slightly frayed, so I just ordered a new from these guys, because it was $56 shipped to my door from Autoparts Warehouse. The dealer wanted $85 for a new belt.
The strange thing is it still sounds like a bad bearing in my tensioner after I start up the car and it's cold. I still get that squeak squeak and I think it's coming from the brand new tensioner. After running for 15 min the squeak usuallys goes away. I'm half tempted to go back to the dealer and show them that the brand new tensioner I bought from them is bad. I might replace the belt first and see if that helps, because it might be creating an uneven wear on the tensioner pulley. FYI, I just replaced the water pump 2 months ago.
Good Luck,
ChillyWilly


_Modified by chillywilly521 at 3:10 PM 1-31-2010_


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## vwwisco (Feb 5, 2010)

i have a new tensioner assembly for a 99 jetta. the new tensioner is ready for installation but has a bolt through it holding the tension off. HOw do you get this bolt out of the tensioner?


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (vwwisco)*

Rotate the bolt counter-clockwise with a wrench. Do it after you install the tensioner on the head.


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## vwwisco (Feb 5, 2010)

k, mine is a different tensioner than the vr6, i have the 2.0. engine. the bolt isnt threaded. Im going to go out and mount it and try to take bolt out. does that put tension on right away on the belt after the bolt is out? is there way to slowly put tension back on?


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## vwwisco (Feb 5, 2010)

Heres what instructions say that are concerning me:
This tensioner is equipped with a release pin that holds the tensioner in a position for ease of installation. The tensioner is shipped pre-loaded and thus is under high tension. Before removing the release pin, ensure that the wrench is properly engaged to prevent a sudden release of the tensioner.


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## vwwisco (Feb 5, 2010)

heres a link:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/produ...id/98
the picture on the right has the bolt in it. its just a small unthreaded bolt, the tensioner arm wont go down until that bolt is removed. Any suggestions on how to get that bolt out?


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## NickWhiteVr6 (Jun 4, 2007)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

what length on bolt to realse the tension would you recommend for a mk3 VR6?


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## XvwX (May 5, 2004)

IDK About a Mk3 but a Mk4 Bentley says that for a 12 valve VR6 to use a 18mm x 1.25 (pitch) x 80mm length.


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## XvwX (May 5, 2004)

I just changed the tensioner and it only needed a 60mm long bolt.


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## ks_jetta_head (Mar 13, 2010)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Hi,
I just replaced my water pump, and now Im hearing this annoying sound coming from that area. Is this the sound of a loose/bad/etc serpentine belt? Or should I inspect the pulleys again?
The sound will sometimes go away when the car reaches 190, but not always. I figured this might have something to with the belt readjusting on the pulleys as the rubber expands.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l3MD1RFkpFI
Thoughts?
Thanks!


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## Snotrag666 (Nov 17, 2008)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (ks_jetta_head)*

good diy... but as i was doing this, the spot where i put the bolt into started to disinagrate as i was talking the three bolts off ! so i imediatly screwed on the bolts lined up the belt and started to take the tension bolt off but by that time, the part fell apart ! everything ended up lining up but..... now looks like im buying a new tensioner


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## theivanwu (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6)*

Thanks for the write up! Fixed my serpentine noise!








Also, I only needed a 40mm long bolt for my '99 12v.


_Modified by theivanwu at 6:12 PM 4-19-2010_


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## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

*Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (theivanwu)*

**Oh yeah! I have a 1.8T if it matters**
Noob question here. Iread a bit of this but im used to my v8 firebird with the belt in front. Lots of cracks on my belt atm and its at 130k so who knows how deep the cracks are at EACH point so im just going to change it. 
Question is, since im used to front belts not side belts is how do i change it, from what angel?
Do i take off the tire and all the plastic on that tirewell and change it from there (if i can) or from above (looks kind of tight lol). I do not have a lift to do it from under(i do have a 3ton jack but read bad things about using that) and i dont trust the stealership oem jack it came with lol)
Thanks








**Oh yeah! I have a 1.8T if it matters**


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## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

lol awww. no noob answer i guess


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## Das Borgen (Sep 10, 2008)

*FV-QR*

dude, this is the 12v vr6 forum, not the 1.8T forum
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zeroforum?id=27


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## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Das Borgen)*

/shrug, i read through all 14 pages pretty much and 2 post said they were the same thing as the 1.8t except the bearing needed changed in the v6 or whatever. figured you accessed the belts the same way in both cars heh


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## wav3form (Dec 7, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Hedgehodge)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Hedgehodge* »_/shrug, i read through all 14 pages pretty much and 2 post said they were the same thing as the 1.8t except the bearing needed changed in the v6 or whatever. figured you accessed the belts the same way in both cars heh

Just get in there and change it out. Best way to learn.


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## vwmk4vr6 (Jan 22, 2010)

*Re: FV-QR (wav3form)*

Just did my tensioner pulley, awesome diy!


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## robinson1509 (Nov 25, 2009)

If you measure the inner and outer diameters and match with the number of grooves you can find the pulleys at a good auto supply. Generally the tensioner does not fail. The pully will cost less than the belt!


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## whtjetta99 (Jun 16, 2010)

*Just Greased my pulley, still squealing??*

WELL, I hope somebody still subscribed to this thread.. It's been awhile I see since it was posted in..

This DIY was awesome, and I just repacked the bearings on my idler pulley, but I'm still getting a squealing .. anybody know any other reasons I'm getting a squeal?? The bearings weren't completely dry on the pulley either so I don't think that's the problem. I do have a leaking water pump so maybe that pulley is squeaking somehow?? Also, i had a squeaky belt on a mazda I had. I replaced the bearings in the idler pulley and it fixed it but started squeaking again a few months later and I just tightened the belt and it solved the problem.. How do you tighten the belt more on the vr6??? Because with the bolt completely removed from the tensioner isn't it as tight as it will go?


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## mwr02jetta (Dec 30, 2005)

Excellent DIY write up! Thank you.

Can anyone confirm that the VW OEM part numbers for the serpentine belt and tensioner (MKIV 12v VR6) are:

Belt: 021 145 933H ?
Tensioner: 021 145 299 C ?

Also has anyone purchased just the pulley:
http://www.volkswaparts.com/VR6SerpentineRoller.htm

Thanks


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## punkinabox (Aug 15, 2010)

very nice diy ive never worked on a car in my life and i didnt have any problems doing this.


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## ngperson (Sep 6, 2010)

ks_jetta_head said:


> Hi,
> I just replaced my water pump, and now Im hearing this annoying sound coming from that area. Is this the sound of a loose/bad/etc serpentine belt? Or should I inspect the pulleys again?
> The sound will sometimes go away when the car reaches 190, but not always. I figured this might have something to with the belt readjusting on the pulleys as the rubber expands.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l3MD1RFkpFI
> ...


I have the exact same issue. I am ordering a tensioner [EDIT] pulley to see if it will alleviate the issue. I have a feeling I should replace the belt too. Thanks for posting that youtube video though, it sounds exactly like my issue.

Update: Also, I forgot to mention, I just did this DIY. This is the 2nd time I've done it. The first time, it lessened the noise to nill for about 2 months. I just did it again, now it sounds a little quieter but it's still there. I think the bearings are already pretty shot so I have am going to order the pulley from gruvenparts.


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## ScoffMachine (Oct 29, 2010)

I had a problem in this section and at times I heard a sharp screech for a second or 2 and after a while I didn't hear it anymore and there was just a small metalic rattling noise. I knew it was bad and needed to be fixed, so that night right as I was driving up my driveway and slowing down. A pillar of smoke was coming from my engine and I soon smelled it in my cabin. This just happen last night. 
So great instructions on break down! When i pulled the pulley off to my shock and then I became pissed off. There was no pulley anymore. It literally exploded. 

There was nothing left of it except the bearing, nut, bolt, and a very thin black O ring. My belt was trashed also with a hole almost burned through it. Luckily got the part from Kraigen O'rielly full assembly for $126 and just replaced that and got a new belt $38. VW dealer wanted to charge me $180 just for the pulley. haha sorry but no way. 

Everything is sounding and feeling alot better now:thumbup:


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## VR6ix (Oct 27, 2003)

If you still have squeaking noises after re-packing the bearing with grease, take a look at your serp. belt. If it's old and has surface cracks, replace it with a new one. New belts are nice and quiet.


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## Tommunist (Feb 7, 2004)

so one thing I would recommend having just done this. I think I would loosen the bolt on the pulley before taking the whole part off the engine block unless you have a vice to hold it in. Mine took a lot of force to break free so it would help if it was secured to something. Otherwise everything went very smoothly :thumbup:


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## frankcastle13 (Mar 2, 2008)

When the bearing goes bad is it just a squeaking sound or could it be a rattle? Mine sounds like a bunch of marbles in a can and squeaks a little bit at certain RPMs. I did grease mine and afterward it eventually got louder than before. I just want to make sure I'm in the right area.


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## d2cold (Aug 20, 2010)

*tensioner holder bolts*

I went searching through all the comments to see if i could find this but gave up and decided to message instead.

Does this tensioner use stretch bolts for attaching to the motor. I noticed you mentioned torque spec of 18 ft/lb but nothing about replacing bolts?

Derek


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## mysman (May 10, 1999)

FYI, this is the 6203 bearing I ordered for my Passat: 

RBL 6203 2RS C3 EMQ V2 

for more info see: 

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2680323#post2680323


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## randyvr6 (Aug 17, 1999)

Well, I had to change mine last week. 2001 Jetta with 193K miles and original tensioner. 

I had an issue with the tensioner pulley making noise, and I ignored it for a few days, as it seemed to go away a couple minutes after starting the car. Well, I was at work and decided to check the oil as I hadn't done it in several weeks. The oil was fine, but I glanced over at the tensioner, and a) found out 2/3 of my serpentine belt was shredded & b) noticed that the entire plastic pulley was melted away and missing! Of course, I work nearly 50 miles from home, so the entire way home I was expecting it to totally fail at any minute.  

Rather amazingly, I thought I would have to wait a few days to get one shipped in from ECS. I decided to check the Advance Auto Parts web site, and found I could pick up the the belt on the way home , and the tensioner in another store about 25 miles away. I live in a rural area, so that was actually pretty close. Advance had a $40 off online coupon code and I could order online and pick up at the store. The tensioner was labeled as a Dayco, but was made in Germany by the same supplier as the OE part. My total price for the belt and tensioner was only $78.  

When I got a new tensioner and belt and took the old one off, I found that the pulley had melted, the bearing had seized, all the ball bearings had fallen out (who knows when), and what remained of the belt was riding on the outer race of the bearing with about 1/2" of free play due to the missing ball bearings. I was real lucky to make it home before it failed altogether.


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## .:E (Sep 14, 2010)

Driving today home from the city my car was making a funny noise, so when I got home I opened up my hood and check my belt. Sure enough the pulley was in about 6 or 7 parts. I hoped onto Vortex and your post came up. Thanks a ton for your help. While I was down there I changed the belt as well, glad I did cause when I took it off I found there was many cracks in the belt. Thanks again for the DIY! Was a great money saver! :beer::beer::beer:


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## vacilko07 (Jan 8, 2010)

"NOTE: THE BOLT IS REVERSE THREAD. TURN IT CLOCKWISE TO REMOVE!!!" 
i did this fix on my 2000 gti 2.0, it was not reverse thread


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## Goheels555 (Feb 10, 2010)

Great DIY. I succesfully greased my bearing but am still experiencing squeaking noises coming from the area. I then sprayed the rest of the pulleys down with some WD-40 although im not sure that will do anything. I've got a serpentine belt on the way cause I didnt wana spend 55$ on one at Car Quest. Hopefully replacing the belt will stop the squeaking cause its driving me insane! 

Quick question: When should the water pump be replaced and how can you tell if it is going bad?


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## Goheels555 (Feb 10, 2010)

Okay so I have been having a squeaking noise that sounds like its coming from the passenger side of the engine bay. I greased the tensioner pulley bearing which helped a little bit, then I replaced the serp. belt which helped a little bit more. My **** is still squeaking... I have about 95,000 miles on it at the moment. Could the water pump be the source of the squeaking? Also I am in the middle of a huge road trip. A 7000 mile road trip. I am half way and have been taking a break to get the serpentine belt done. If it is indeed the water pump thats making the noise will it be okay for another 3500 miles? I dont really wana wait here for another week waiting for another part to come in. Not to mention I dont want to over stay my welcome.


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## toscar (Aug 15, 2009)

I did this DIY last year and the noise went away. But recently the squeaking came back, so I sprayed some lubricant on the pulleys and found out it is the AC pulley squeaking.
Does the AC pulley have bearings and if so could they be greased?


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## midorialexandros (Jan 7, 2010)

I replaced the whole tensioner, thanks man.


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## dreamforme (Nov 15, 2009)

did you have pulley bearing noise? is this why you did this?


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## Den9696 (Oct 24, 2010)

Any way to find out which thing is creating noise? im replacing the tensioner this afternoon and im prayign thats the culprit but its just agrivating thinking it could be the waterpump or the ac an ect.


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## Goheels555 (Feb 10, 2010)

After drifting around on some gravel roads my VR6 developed a squeek. I replaced the belt and lubed the pulley and it was still there. It kept on getting quieter and quieter and eventually stoped all togeather. I think there was a piece of dirt or something in one of the pulley tracts that was causing the belt to skip a bit and it just worked itself out. I would suggest removing your belt and cleaning off all your pulleys just to make sure that isnt the case before you go spending money on belts or tensioners or waterpumps for that matter.


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## 12string (Feb 9, 2009)

had the dreaded pulley whine, since I couldn't find just the pulley I gave this a shot. Piece of cake, 15 minutes, good as new!

Couple notes:

You don't have to remove the whole assemly, the pulley can be removed and replaced with the tensioner assembly in the car.

Degrease the bearing. If you accidently mix grease types, you will destroy the bearing. Mine had heated enough to coke the old grease, so adding new grease would have loosened up crunchy flakes. Bicycle degreasers work well and are kind to plastics.

Use a high temp, high pressure grease - trailer bearing grease is good, it doesn't need to be waterproof. And DON'T OVERFILL! It expands and releases gases some when it heats, it could blow those seals right off

I had no idea how loud this car had been for all these months - no belt noise at all now!


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## vr6pilot (Jul 5, 2000)

Vintage thread :thumbup:


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## 12string (Feb 9, 2009)

saved me $100. Gotta love this place!


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## tankg (Dec 18, 2011)

I did the whole project step by step... But now the car won't start any ideas


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## vr6pilot (Jul 5, 2000)

tankg said:


> I did the whole project step by step... But now the car won't start any ideas


 :what: It's like saying, " I changed my flat tire and now the car won't start." SHOULD be totally unrelated. More info maybe?


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## tankg (Dec 18, 2011)

Before doing the install the: the tensioner broke, the belt was spinning around the metal ring! But belt didn't come off. I was able to make it to my home. With abs light, check engine light, going on and off. At times I lost power steering but it came back when I stepped on gas and was at consistent speed. Turned it off. Where it sat for a day till I did the install 

As I said lol: I replaced tensioner and belt... Once done the car would not start, it cranks and sounds like its about to turn over but never does. I thought it could be the battery, but even jumped it doesn't turn over. Install was done in rain, but electronics are fine. Thè belt is on correctly, could I be missing anything.


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## vr6vdubs (Aug 10, 2011)

*Help?!*

So I have had a squealing coming from what I believe is my a/c compressor for a few months now and has recently gotten much worse. I don't wanna drop 400 though if its not that could a try replacing with gruven parts light weight pulley first to see if its the bearing or any ways to isolate what this high pitched squealing is other than putting your ear to a pipe(which is how I've isolated the noise to the a/c) Thanks anyone for helpeace:


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## 12string (Feb 9, 2009)

pull the tensioner pulley off and inspect it first, that's free, even if you have to clean and relube it. If the tensioner looks good, replace the compressor. The a/c pulley will not squeal, the bearings will - right before the compressor disintegrates and blows shrapnel through your entire system. while you're in there, do the drier too. Cheap insurance.


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## vr6vdubs (Aug 10, 2011)

Thats true.. Thanks:thumbup:


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## vr6pilot (Jul 5, 2000)

guven's pulley is not "light weight" for the record. It's billet and it's got a replaceable bearing...those are its advantages. The composite OEM pulley is noticeably lighter in weight.


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## vr6vdubs (Aug 10, 2011)

Oh yeah, you no your sh*t:thumbup: I might be thinking of the ecs one, I could be incorrect though


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## vr6pilot (Jul 5, 2000)

vr6vdubs said:


> Oh yeah, you no your sh*t:thumbup: I might be thinking of the ecs one, I could be incorrect though


 lol....I'm working on it. You spend 12 years with ANY one thing and you're bound to know a couple o'things.


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## Josh1581 (Feb 27, 2005)

Was going to do this, this coming weekend since it started making noise, but this is all that's left. Looks like I'll be replacing the whole tensioner! 

Here's all that's left! lol


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## samdog (Mar 29, 2010)

*Getting the Grease Amount Correct*

Thanks to the OP for a good DIY!

I read over the comments about over-greasing the bearing and having it sling grease all over the belt and pulleys. So to prevent that, I bench-spun the pulley until it stopped slinging excess grease.

I started by de-greasing the bearing and cleaning it. (Note: Do not spin a dry bearing; it will scratch the polished surfaces.) Then I packed it pretty good with Mag-1 bearing grease; filling all the voids. To spin it, I attached the pulley to the tensioner and snugged it into a bench vise.

I attached a pin-stripe removal disc to a high-speed drill. The disc is made of pink eraser rubber and is about 4" in diameter and 3/4" thick -- it will not damage the plastic pulley. Then I placed the disc against the pulley and ran it up to about 2000 rpm for a few minutes.

When the pulley was removed it had slung grease past the seals. I wiped it up and had to spin it about 5 times before it stopped slinging grease and the seals were clean. Total grease it lost was probably about 1/3 of what I packed in.

Now the grease amount is correct. It is running smooth on the car and has not slung any grease on the belt.


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## JayDD007 (Feb 27, 2012)

i really wish i saw this before i spend 500 bucks to get it fixed:banghead:


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## Josh1581 (Feb 27, 2005)

JayDD007 said:


> i really wish i saw this before i spend 500 bucks to get it fixed:banghead:



$500??? Your mechanic must be inept if he charged you for that much labor. I think I spent $50 on a new tensioner assembly, $30 on a new belt, .$50 for a bolt, and an hour of my time. 

I would expect a mechanic to be able to do it within an hour if I can.


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## vr6pilot (Jul 5, 2000)

.$50 ?


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## Josh1581 (Feb 27, 2005)

vr6pilot said:


> .$50 ?


$.50

There you happy? :laugh:


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## JayDD007 (Feb 27, 2012)

Well the tensioner was 180 bucks apparently but don't worry I'm gonna attempt to do everything else myself using this amazing library of DIY's


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## danieljohn92 (Sep 25, 2010)

*replaced*

Ive heard the noise for a few days coming from my pulleys, i knew it was most likely my tensioner pulley. so i ordered it online from ECSTUNING.COM for cheap.

The next day the whole serpentine belt blew to pieces while i was driving. It was a big mess. so i had no choice but to cancle the order and just went to autozone and paid like double for it  My advice is if you think you can tell your tensioner pulley its going bad then replace it ASAP before your belt snaps.

I followed this DIY and it was very simple and took less than an hour to replace the pulley and replace the serpentine belt. Runs like a champ now and no nasty noise anymore


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## Dubs Addict (Feb 10, 2003)

vivagarcia said:


> Vortex at its finest. VgRt6, you're the man.


I know this is an Oooooold Thread,,,,,,,,but YES........VgRt6 Is The Man !!! 

What Awesome DIY Threads. !!! :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:opcorn:

BTW,,,,,,,VgRt6 Check your Inbox, Pls !!


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## maduro (Feb 9, 2012)

So i followed all the steps, put the belt back on but now the pulley won't go back into place. seems like belt is too tight and pulley won't go back to where it was before i released the tension..
Any ideas?


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## jupiters_spot (May 4, 2012)

*Left-hand thread*

Lovely guide! 
I sure wish I'd found it before I stripped the threads out of the aluminum arm when I "unscrewed" the bolt holding the pulley & bearing :-(


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## dre82s (May 17, 2012)

Thank you for mentioning that bolt goes reverse threaded! I almost broke my wrench trying to undo the pulley!


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## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

Thank you! I'm assuming this will apply to all engines that have a tensioner pulley bearing.


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## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

Thank you! I'm assuming this will apply to all engines that have a tensioner pulley bearing


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## Born2race (Jan 9, 2013)

*Vr6 won't start*

I replaced the belt and tensioner on my 95 jetta glx vr6 and now the car will not crank. 

The tensioner bearing froze and melted the pulley causing the belt to be shredded. Replaced them and now the car just turns over. It sounds like it wants to fire but doesn't. 

Any suggestions or ideas? 

Tom


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## Fedup12901 (May 29, 2013)

WANT TO THANK ALL OF YOU who take the time to post these threads, that are such a god sent to those of us who can't afford to pay my Friend & yours.... THE DEALER ....:banghead: $100/an hour :thumbdown:
The manufacture build these cars to not only make money in the sale, but to also make BIG money in the maintenance & repair....A lot of the enginuity that went into these vehicles (Volkswagen):banghead: is to discourage your average intermediate mechanic, but thanks to all of you that take the time to help others, WE ALL WIN !!! THANKS AGAIN, GOD BLESS........eace:


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## gomer900 (Sep 21, 2013)

BIG THANK YOU to the OP. Also props to all the helpful comments. But my biggest THANKS go to to the guys that suggested the out-the-bottom approach. 

I figured I would only have 30 mins invested if out-the-bottom wasn't working but it worked like a champ on my 2002 VW GTI VR6. Like most, I rounded out one of the allen bolts on the pulley, but the bottom approach made it a snap to drill that out for a quick recovery.


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## MetzgerMKIV (Dec 13, 2010)

Thanks OP! I will be doing this in the next few weeks. Great write-up.


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## chris_kraft3 (Oct 13, 2004)

Thanks for the write up.  

It is ever important for people that read older threads to still have the pictures included. Worst part about old threads are pictures that won't show due to deletes. 

You're the man!


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## jwel (Jan 17, 2014)

Had a lot of noise coming from something related to the serpentine belt (was the power steering pump, I think), so I pulled the tensioner off to take a look. Spins freely for 5 seconds if I give it a spin, so that's one potential problem eliminated.

I'm a complete newb, so it seems that anyone who can read can do this DIY.  Thanks a lot for writing this up!


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## VTECeateR (Oct 27, 2000)

This is a terrific write up. I'm going to be replacing the tensioner and for $50 a brand new one is good insurance. Thanks for the write up, OP


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## milkywaystyle (Jun 25, 2014)

*water pump*

Great write-up! Easy steps to follow to get pulley off, the bearings were bone dry, but in-tact. Repacked bearings, re-assembled everything, started her up, and metal on metal grinding noise was still there. Noticed the water pump was a little wobbly, and others had mentioned that was the next step... Ordered new water pump for $81, followed your water pump write-up http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...placing-the-main-water-pump-on-a-MKIV-12v-VR6 and got er done! Noise is gone! Thanks for the awesome write-ups. Life saver.


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## robinson1509 (Nov 25, 2009)

*no bolt?*

Use one of the three that hold on the tensioner and put it back when you finish


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## big65 (Apr 5, 2011)

Thanks on the write up, I had forgotten about the bolt for the tensioner and it saved me some busted knuckles and about 2 hours of trying to compress the pulley with a pry bar. One thing I'd recommend is going with a longer bolt length of 2 inches because on my tensioner I had to bottom it out in order to get the belt on and I was using a 2 inch bolt which went a little past the inch and quarter mark.


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## black gti (Apr 2, 1999)

Thank you for posting this DIY (over 10 years ago!!!).

my car started making a clacking sound a few weeks ago and I narrowed it down to the belt / pulley side of the engine. At first it just happened on start up, then it would quiet down and sound normal. Then it started happening more often (after we had a lot of rain). Some days it wouldn't make a sound at all... Some searching and I found this thread, definitely seemed like this was the problem and I finally had time to tear into it today after getting some supplies.

- loosen the tensioner pulley bolt with a 15mm (sooooo important to know it's reverse thread!)
- put a bolt in the tensioner after coating it with anti-sieze
- released tension on the belt and removed the pulley

- took everything inside and popped off the inner seal. the outer seal seemed more brittle and I didn't want to rip it, so I just regreased it from one side. spinning the bearing by hand, I could hear it was dry. there was some old, gummed up grease thrown around the inside of the pulley.









- removed the seal with two very small flat screwdrivers, being careful not to gouge it.









- removed what was left of the old grease and sprayed inside with brake clean before putting new grease inside









- the grease I used is made by Lucas, X-TRA Heavy Duty Grease, "perfect for high temperatures, high speed bearings.." Drop point of 560°F









- packed the grease down into the bearing as far as I could with a small screwdriver. carefully replaced the seal, spun it around by hand, cleaned up the grease that flung out, spun it some more, cleaned the grease, then reinstalled it.

very smooth processe and only took half an hour and one :beer:
no need to remove the whole tensioner

now what else can I rebuild with this big tube of grease?

[update] this helped for a bit, but there is still some occasional noise from the bearing, usually on startup. doesn't happen as frequently as before though [/update] 3.25.15

[update] it always makes noise when it's raining now... [/update] 1.22.16


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## firebird1970 (Feb 6, 2015)

I'm going to replace the serpentine belt today using this method....thanks for the write up.


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## firebird1970 (Feb 6, 2015)

Easy Peasy....30 minutes. I used a m8 45mm 1.25 bolt to release the tension, perfect size for .98


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## tomjv (Jun 15, 2001)

*Thanks!*

Had to reply to this!

I did mine yesterday after hearing some faint squealing for the last week. 
I took the tensioner out and it was obvious there was an issue there. Those balls were all dried and looked dusty. I could feel it hanging up when I spun it with my finger. Anyway, my $.02

1. Clean it with kero. Then blow it out with compressed air.
2. You can put the unit on a wire wheel and it shines up nice, like chrome.
3. definitely take the unit out. I mean, don't attempt to do it with the unit installed in the car. 
a.it's really EASY to remove. only 3 bolts.
b. you'll get cleaning product all over the place in the engine compartment.
c you can't get both sides of the bearing that way. Sure, the grease may get all around the balls, but you want to CLEAN the abrasive junk out of the entire unit.
4. Someone said "you'll damage the seals taking them out" BS. Just do it. They pop in and out NP.
5. Don't overdo the grease. Make sure you work it in with your finger on both sides of the bearing Replace the seals. Spin with finger, then with a drill. I used a wooden dowel with a paper towel wrapped around it.

I'd go as far as to say, if you have a car with over say 50K, and you haven't done this, JUST DO IT. Don't wait for the part to fail. It's a no brainer.
TomJV


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## Vtown_Vdub (Jul 30, 2014)

*1.8t swap question*

I


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## mk4vr6jetta02 (Nov 10, 2014)

Took this thread to the car tonight with the plan to repack the bearing. Needless to say I need a new tensioner. Yikes. Nonetheless, great writeup!










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## Champadoodle (Mar 8, 2016)

mk4vr6jetta02 said:


> Took this thread to the car tonight with the plan to repack the bearing. Needless to say I need a new tensioner. Yikes. Nonetheless, great writeup!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


How big is that tensioner bolt? I just bought an m8-1.25 x 25mm, and it doesn't fit. Is that why my belt might be squeaking?

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## mk4vr6jetta02 (Nov 10, 2014)

Champadoodle said:


> How big is that tensioner bolt? I just bought an m8-1.25 x 25mm, and it doesn't fit. Is that why my belt might be squeaking?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


To be honest, my tensioner only gets the bolt when I am taking the belt off. Otherwise, no bolt keeps the tension perfect for my car. 

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## Champadoodle (Mar 8, 2016)

mk4vr6jetta02 said:


> To be honest, my tensioner only gets the bolt when I am taking the belt off. Otherwise, no bolt keeps the tension perfect for my car.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk


The bolt is used to loosen the serpentine belt. I took off the tensioner and greased up the bearing and it took care of the squeak for a little while. THEN, the squeak came back after a few days of driving it. I'm at a loss at what to do.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


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## campsquire (Oct 1, 2015)

BTW I was able to buy a replacement pully that looked like an exact match from NAPA that was inexpensive- $14.00.


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