# 2000 New Beetle GLS 2.0L (Wreck-Repair)



## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

*2000 New Beetle GLS 2.0L AT (Wreck-Repair)*

I bought a wrecked New Beetle couple weeks ago.  - june 18, 8PM
Needed some bending lol, almost done fixing that... used a hammer, car-jack and engine hauler

_Needed a new radiator... got it from PepBoys; it did not fit! returned... and ordered online... _- radiator is in and working now.

Radiator Core Support was almost bad... fixed it using steel epoxy... 

Need a new hood probably... tried to bend it back  (that was fun... by putting the hood under a Dodge Dakota rear wheel/tire, about 50 times)

Need a new bumper cover also i guess... (ill try using hair dryer, see if that works) - hair dryer did took out the dent. heated it up and pushed the dent out.

And probably head lights also...

*Reason for making this thread?*
I want to know if i should change/check anything while beetles whole front is accessible.
Car was starting up fine, it was just over heating. (just need a new battery, needed a jump-start)

Trying to fix the car without putting much money as possible  - ill update how much i spent later on...

Open to any suggestions 

Thanks!

I'm a novice(and a new user of VWVortex), this is the first time i opened up a car like that 
Probably need some kind of a manual soon (lol). - got "Bentley "Volkswagen Jetta, Golf, GTI MK4 Service Manual- 1999-2005" that is kinda similar from inside.

Pic from seller:









Hood off in my garage:









Radiator off (front end crushed):


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

*LeBra*

If i put LeBra on the front end, you think it would hide much of the defects ? 


Or DI-NOC Carbon Fibre Vinyl wrap on the hood will be better?
-maybe i can do some filling on the hood smooth it out and put DI-NOC Carbon Fibre Vinyl...


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## Rockerchick (May 10, 2005)

I'd do a timing belt/water pump job if you don't know the last time it was done, or done at all. Easy to get to everything, so why not?


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

Rockerchick said:


> I'd do a timing belt/water pump job if you don't know the last time it was done, or done at all. Easy to get to everything, so why not?


Thanks for the suggestion! i'll surely look into it. 

Edit:
can i use http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/s...1A.html?intcmpid=Product+Listings+Best+Seller

or do i have to order it from the dealer ?


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## Rockerchick (May 10, 2005)

That does not have nearly all the parts needed. I'd get this: http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-New_Beetle--2.0/Engine/Timing/ES8452/


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

Nice! that looks good 

Thank you.


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

*Flusing Coolant*

Should i also flush the coolant some how before installing the new radiator/water pump ?

Can i ?


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

any other tips/suggestions?


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## Rockerchick (May 10, 2005)

If you are keeping the same coolant type (which should be pink G12) then no need to do a full on flush. Doing the timing belt/water pump job will result in draining the coolant anyway.


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

when i bought the car... it had no coolant in there... so I'm not sure what kind it was...
and i thought flushing and draining are two different things, aren't they? or flushing is more for the radiator rather than anything else...

edit: will install new radiator...

edit2: if you see the third pic... the AC lines on the left(beside the headlight) are bent, you think i should try to bend them back? or keep them as is since there is no leak (yet)


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## JimmyD (Apr 30, 2001)

Might as well check if you have any worn out vacuum hoses since you're in there. They're cheap to replace and the OEM hoses would likely be rather brittle after 12 years.


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## msellards (Jun 28, 2012)

Did the airbags go off...? Just curious...


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

JimmyD said:


> Might as well check if you have any worn out vacuum hoses since you're in there. They're cheap to replace and the OEM hoses would likely be rather brittle after 12 years.


sure... thanks 



msellards said:


> Did the airbags go off...? Just curious...


No they did not... but i do see that Air Bags light is ON on the dashboard.
Car went under a van... so it wasn't enough of an impact on the bumper carrier.


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## Rockerchick (May 10, 2005)

If the airbag light is on, the airbags are likely to not deploy when they need to. You'll need VAG-COM in order to scan the car for that to figure out why the light is on so you can fix it and get the light off.


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

Rockerchick said:


> If the airbag light is on, the airbags are likely to not deploy when they need to. You'll need VAG-COM in order to scan the car for that to figure out why the light is on so you can fix it and get the light off.


hmm, so i have to get this usb cable... and VCDS i guess 
any idea where to get this cable from ?  so i can use VCDS on a laptop...

thanks!


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

*filter before the intake air-filter *

as i was cleaning up the 10 yr old dirt/grime from the front end, I found out that there were some pieces intake was broken... i fixed it using steel epoxy... cleaned the air filter since it was k&n... then found out there was another filter that goes even before the air-filter under the driver side fender where the air actually goes in, this filter was totally sealed with dirt, sprayed some k&n filter cleaner and tried to wash it of, that did not cleaned it completed so i opened the part up using a flat screw driver in the holes on the side... and took out the filter an washed the dirt off it by hand... also cleaned MAF sensor grill like filter using a wooden skewer.

waiting for some parts(radiator support mount) to be delivered so I can mount the radiator, change fuel filter, oil, oil filter, flush coolant and add coolant.

I took of the cover on the timing belt, it look pretty good, since the mileages are around 140,000 someone probably already changed it once. So i feel like i don't need to change it at the moment, plus I have a limited budget at the moment.


Vacuum hoses? I am not sure which one would that be, most of the hoses feel fine, i broke the windshield washer hose  i wonder if shrink tubing would work on it. Any suggestions?

maybe shrink tubing then steel epoxy on top  ?

Still haven't ordered hood and bumper yet  will wait till all else is fixed. Also needs a battery still 

Anyone knows an easy way to take out the wipers arms? took of the bolts but the arms are stuck really good in there, i don't want to break the motors or something. I did put wd40 but that didn't help either.

I think that's it for now 

Thanks


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

The timing belt is LAST thing you want to cheap out on; even if you are on a limited budget. If it lets go; it will trash the head and possibly much more... then your "budget" will won't be so cheap after all. _The price of the kit is way cheaper then the cost of a major engine repair from a timing belt failure; please reconsider replacing the timing belt._ We have too many stories on here; of people having this problem, many people just sell or junk the car at that point (especially considering the value of the older new beetles now). If anything; if you need to, hold off on some cosmetic issues/repairs until you get more money and get the mechanical issues handled first, especially something as crucial and the primary failure point on these VW's. All of us here want you to have success with your new beetle and have a reliable car to enjoy! Don't neglect the timing belt!  

MJM has a kit that is a little less...

http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=&products_id=496


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## Rockerchick (May 10, 2005)

^x2. And you honestly don't know if its been done before or not. And even if it was, when? Get it done. You already have everything apart. You can get a kit for less than $200!


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

*Timing belt!*

Grr  Alright I'll reconsider it. I guess you guys are trying to save me for future  thank you

I'm just scared about what other problems this car might have  I gambled on(bought) this car to see if I can fix it cheap and make it run 

Car was running fine until it heated up (hole in radiator/broken radiator inlet)... so I'm hoping there aren't any other problems. And of course the airbag light.

I'll try getting the kit Rockerchick suggested.

I'm in no hurry, so I guess ill take my time. And manage my budget accordingly 

Thanks again for convincing me


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

*Radiator Fan Dead?*

I started NB yesterday... with a new radiator. 

Left the car on for 10 min... no over heating... no red overheating light... and no engine light anymore(made me very happy)... 
Turned on the heat, worked fine.
Turned on the A/C, no cold air (maybe freon got out from somewhere)

*Main problem: When A/C was turned on, none of fans on the radiator ran.*


Tested driver side in-dash fuses with ohm meter.
Checked fuses on top of battery.
Turned ignition switched to ON position, took of the connector from "thermal switch"(19 on the image N19-0192) from the radiator, and connected a copper wire from red to red-stripes on the connector (8 on the image N19-0192).








As I read, by doing this the fans should run on 2 speeds. But they don't at all.


So now I need to check if the fans are getting any power at all and I am not sure how to do that 
Should I plugin the fans in an A/C adapter and see if they run? if so what what wires do I plugin in the 12v A/C adapter?
What wires provides current to fan?

So since fan is not turning on with A/C on. Car is getting overheated. Red overheat light comes on, water boils... and another problem (maybe). Water drips under the car on the passenger side. See image(circled red where water drops from)







- img updated - (lost the pic with circles lol)

some more images I took...
Fan Module:









Rust and Oil:









Oil Leak source?:








Haven't dripped any oil since i got this car. Not sure how to get this cleaned/fixed.

Behind the block:









Fixing the fan is the highest priority.

So let me know your suggestions ! 

Thank you.

edit:
Also the battery light is on! 

edit2:
i just got the "Bentley - Volkswagen Jetta, Golf, GTI MK4 Service Manual- 1999-2005", can this manual be used with my New Beetle? 

edit3:
Looks like that manual will work where I need it


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## 69bug (Aug 10, 2002)

first, where the water is coming from under the car where the red circles are, there is not water there. those are fuel lines and vacuum lines. 

i would check to see if you're getting power at #8. #8 tells the fans to turn on.

http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/New Beetle/Cooling/208/1

then i would check to see if you're getting power #18. 

http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/New Beetle/Cooling/85/2

it could also be your thermostat not opening to allow the car to cool off.

where you're getting oil from under your car you can do two things, replace the half shaft as a 

whole 

http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/New Beetle/Drivetrain/8/1

or replace the torn boot and put new CV joint grease in it.

http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/New Beetle/Drivetrain/33/1


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

thanks for your input 69bug 

I'll try to figure out where the water is coming from. It will be difficult to figure because it only happens when I let the car over heat. ( i tried twice)

I'll see if #8 getting any power.
- By putting a tester into red-wire and ground. (please correct me if I'm wrong)

If I get power there I'll post back for more info 

Just FYI, I did not put the coolant in yet because I was planning to flush the system out first.

I'll get a new thermostat or thermal switch if I get power at #8.
Ill also try this as I read this in Bentley manual "To quickly check if the thermostat is opening and if coolant is circulating through the radiator, allow a cold engine to run at idle and warm up. As the temperature of the coolant rises, carefully feel the heater and expansion tank hoses. They will get hot. Feel the radiator hoses, particularly the lower hose. They will stay relatively cool to the touch. When the thermostat opens, the radiator hoses will quickly get hot and the radiator fan should cycle on shortly thereafter."

"Replace the torn boot and put new CV joint grease in it"; I'll have to look into this, not sure what I'll have to open to get that (boot/shaft) out 

Thank you again for all the help


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

*fan's fixed*

finally checked some voltages and figured out that it was a at the top of the battery. FUSE WASN'T BLOWN up. It was the connection where fuse goes in, that place was kind of melted.

this is what i did.
1. checked the ac fuse 16 from the in-dash fuse box. all fine.
2. jumped fans using a jump-start battery to see if the fans r ok. all good.
3. checked the fuse again on top of battery. wiggled some wires...
4. checked volts on switch connector they looked better now, so i shorted the fan switch connector again to see if the fans come on. and they did for 2 sec. 
5. so now i was confused... wigling wires everywhere, fuse on battery... and volts bumped up again on the switch connector, so i took off the fuse and cleaned it up with sand paper, and tried to clean the connection where fuse goes in as much i could.
6. pluged the fuse back... volts still normal...
7. started the car up, warmed it up... turned the ac on... and voila, fans worked!
8. turned of the ac, reved a lil, made the car a bit hot, and fans came on again  (with some probs)

so im getting some progress...
just when fan kicks in, i see water dripping ( about half an ounce)
fans shaking the whole car...
i might of broke something... ( right half-shaft not working)


water drips?
cant figure out yet  i hope it is not something in heater core or something )

why fans shaking the whole car?
could be couple reasons...
1. maybe because one of the bigger fan is kinda broke. (peice missing from the side of the fan)
2. the condensor is bent from the middle so i had to put some spacer between the screw connections to the radiator, so the a/c dryer(i think, long thin oilfilter like device to the right of rad) is touching the fan's assembly border. i think fans does not have enough room to move(to tight) and tranfer the vibration to radiator mounts.
3. old fans, wigling very easily

half shalf(i guess)?
while i was warming up the car, i shifted the gears... to get the car get hot.............. arg... and i had emergency breaks on, i heard some cracking noise and then my indash guages started making a beep sound so then i saw the brake light and lowered the emergency breaks.
now the left side axel (whatever runs the tire) does not move anymore, it moves a lil bit if i turn the wheel all the way to the right of left... 
n i hear cracking like sound when i switch gear to park now ( remember this car is automatic trans)
i was thinking, maybe when i put the tires back on and lower the car, it might fix it self? maybe something got out of position while standing on those car stands.



melted fuse box


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

A/C not kicking on because of the melted top fuse box is a common issue; this might help! 

http://www.aircondition.com/tech/questions/83/No-Compressor-Operation-in-Volkswagen-New-Beetle

I had the same issue; I cleaned the fuse contacts with sand paper and sprayed with electrical contact cleaner, blew out with compressed air and bent the contacts to create a better connection. Worked temporarily, A/C kicked on normally again (when depressing the button); until I replaced the fuse box on top of the battery with a new one; so far... haven't had any more problems. Good luck!


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

thanks.. that is what i kind of did... 
see my post above i just updated it...

please read and advise 


thank you all


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Well, all of this sounds kinda confusing; referring to so many different things! I think these are the issues; you are mentioning: 

1. overheating (confirm water pump ok? Pressure test cooling system, for leaking problem (pin point the source of the leaking coolant)? What type of liquid is leaking (coolant, water, trans fluid, oil, brake, power steering fluid, etc?) broken fans contributing to the issue? Has the cooling system been fully filled; eliminating all air pockets with a vacuum coolant filling tool?

2. A/C not working (system physically damaged?)

3. fans damaged (maybe creating a draw; that melted the fuse block? Are some of the blades missing; thus not balanced anymore... causing all the shaking? Do they operate a low/high speeds and are they binding when you turn them?) If the fans are trashed; I would just replace the whole assembly, not too expensive. 

http://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C....,cf.osb&fp=4235695490df6772&biw=1024&bih=749


4. axle shaft leaking from the cv boot (cv's damaged or broken? Once the grease flies out of the CV's; it is just a matter of time, until they self destruct! The CV joint may have come apart, too!)

Overall; when working with cars that have been in a impact accident, it may take awhile to work out the "bugs" and figure out what works or doesn't work. Many times it will take using the car to find out what is broken; as the parts will fully fail, at this point... they could just be damaged. 
Let me know if you think the above is the narrowed down problems at the moment... whew!


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

1. over heating...
- it is not overheating anymore since the fans started working.
- fans just shake alot, might need a new fan assy
- also the ac condensor is kind of bent so i had to space it out from the radiator. that might be contributing to this issue.
- it is definately leaking what ever i put in the cooling system, currently water because i planned to flush the coolant off before using antifreeze (didnt wanted to waste that.) so what happens is that when the temp reaches to kick fans on i see water arround thoes fuel lines. see pic above.

2. ac not working.
- it works since fans started working.

3. damaged fan.
- bigger fan is kind of broke, not missing the fin but a small piece of part that goes arround the fins.
- fan was touching inlet hose of the radiator that might haf caused the melted fuse connection.
- ill try to bend the ac lines back so the fan/radiator/accondesor have more space to move when fans kicks on. ill post pics inthe morning to ask if i can bend one of the ac lines or will it break.

4. axel.
- that pic i have posted here was from the righ half-shalf inner boot. but the issue that came up is in the left half-shalf, not moving much when put in drive.

5. battery
- battery is dead, have been using a battery from different car... and battery light is not turning of in the dash board.

6. cosmetics....

 

Sent from Doubleshot.


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Sounds like all these components having contact; have you had the front pulled and or straightened? I don't see any pics of the damage but if all the things you said were damaged (radiator, fan, radiator mount, fender, hood etc.); I wonder if you need to have everything straightened before replacing all the other things. Sounds like you are a hands on type of guy; you can actually do all of pulling with a come along or a rent or borrow a hydraulic puller from somewhere. Sounds like replacing the fans and top battery fuse box would be a good idea. On the charging issue; I would have the whole charging system checked and or have the battery tested now that its out. Checking the axles; might be easier with the wheels on the car and it in motion; have someone walk beside the car to listen for sounds. You have allot of work ahead of you; just break it down into priorities: fix things step by step... when money and time allows.


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

I used some home techniques lol... used a jack and hammer.
-for left side; i hadn't had much experience at this point so i used an engine hauler, hammer and someone asked me to use a torch. 
-for right side; i had put the jack on the engine mount and pushed out the frame from inside out. also some hammer work. this was much easier(even though i had to take the headlight mounts) and cleaner way.

I just switched from dropbox to my ftp site for the images. So the images on first post are updated now.
Also in there you'll see that a/c line is almost touching the alternator. You think that i can bend that line back without breaking it? 

Thanks for reading


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

*Update*

Put the tires on... 

Lowered the car from jack stands... 

Started the car... 

Put in drive and car did not move :O! (i had a brick under rear tire lol) 

So I'm happy to see both axles are working. (I'll still try to fix the boot on the right inner shaft) 

Need a battery; tired for swapping battery from my work car.  

Will try to bend the condenser back in it's shape to (maybe) fix the shaking issue. 

On firday, i'll help my brother change his rear shocks/springs on his Honda Oddesy. Feel free suggest anything on that! (if anyone following this thread   ) - all done in 3 hrs  

That's all for now...


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

... so 
i took of the radiator core support again... to fix the vibrating issue. 
took off the radiator 
put the old radiator back in, screwed 2 of the right screws from the ac condenser to the radiator and inserted a 2 inch wood stud in between radiator and condenser. 
Used longer screws on the other side and started tightening up the condenser. Doing this almost perfectly straightened up the ac condenser. 
So instead of using 3 nuts and couple washers to hook up the condenser, now I used only 3 washers. 

So i put everything back in and left the radiator fan's(big fan) connector of the power. And started the car and A/C. And there wasn't much vibration! 

Now i put the other fan on power also... and it vibrates a bit less since radiator and a/c condenser has room to to move. But still vibrates enough, so it needs to be fixed... 
main problem is the big fan that is wiggling so much because of a broken piece on the blade. (as billymade suggested that fan might not be balanced) 

Now I am thinking if I should order the full Dorman Radiator Fan assembly or just buy 1 fan. (probably the whole assy) and i will aslo try to get a better radiator support mount(that's kind of broken/hard to screw in). 


That's it for now...


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

*Fan Vibration REPAIRED/FIXED!*

I am not sure how long it's going to last like this but it saved me $100 for now.  
Check out the before and after pics. hehe 

Before: 









and after cutting, sanding and little bit of cleaning. 
36 min later... : 









The fan is so smooth now that i don't even hear it spinning lol, I guess it's now lighter also and might help the fuse box to NOT melt any more  

Very happy hehe, I almost ordered the fan assy yesterday but then I thought of this idea and I am glad I tried it  

So what was the reason for vibration and shaking of the beetle near the radiator? 
Radiator cooling fan was unbalanced due to a broken plastic piece on the blade. 
And A/C condenser was touching the Radiator Core Support so fan/radiator/ac condenser did not had any space to move and was transferring the vibration to beetle's body. 

Fixed it by cutting all the plastic around the blades thus balancing the fan out! 
And bent the a/c condenser back in its shape so it has space to move around and stop to vibration at radiator mounts. 


That's it for now! 

Edit: 
Oh ya and the battery light turned off by it self. 

Why battery light not turning off after replacing the dead battery? 
I think beetle takes couple of days to figure out the battery power then switch the light accordingly.


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

just bought a colant system presure testing tool... 
tested the system and the system is not holding preasure... 

i pumped in 18psi... in 15 min it slowly went down to 8psi.... 
and stopped. 

i dint see any colant dripping anywhere when testing... tried twice. 
colant just dissapears somewhere... maybe evaporates from tail pipe?... i see no smoke... 

maybe there is a combustion leak... i see lil bit of greenish residue(like corrosion on the battery) in front of the block... 
maybe i should get some kinda die to see where the leak is coming from... 

im putting the bumper and fenders back now... 

any suggestions will be appreciated. 

thanks


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

*Headlights 3pin to 4pin*

bought used some stuff last week from 2002 beetle 6speed...

2 head lights / with harness
hood(red)
radiator support
big fan/fan assy
winshield water pipe



1 problem 
I am not sure how to wire up the new headlights!
My old harness got 3 pins and the one i bought has 4...
anyone got a guide to wire this up?

thanks!


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## Rockerchick (May 10, 2005)

That's because the parts you pulled off are from a Turbo S, which have an extra light in the housing I believe. You should be able to hook them up, but I'm not certain how. Have you been over to newbeetle.org? Lots of good how-to's there and much more active.


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

Rockerchick said:


> That's because the parts you pulled off are from a Turbo S, which have an extra light in the housing I believe. You should be able to hook them up, but I'm not certain how. Have you been over to newbeetle.org? Lots of good how-to's there and much more active.


no i have not...(used newbeetle.org much...)

i just swapped(took out from the original lights) the connectors on the light... and used the original harness...
wasted that extra bulb(not plugged in any more) 

i added the red hood... and figured that body is still bad... so i have fix the body bit more... 
and do a test drive! one day


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

so........ i was able to close the hood finally...
bought a portable hydraulic puller kit and bent back more stufffff 

drove 50 miles... twice to work...

i ordered a OBD2 OBD II Diagnostic USB Cable For KKL409.1 VAG-COM 409
installed Ross-Tech Vag-Com on a laptop...

and checked the ABS and Airbag lights ...

*Component and/or Version: ABS 20 IE CAN 0001*
2 Faults Found:
01276 - ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64) 
--------16-10 - Signal Outside Specifications - Intermittent
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 

*Component and/or Version: 06 AIRBAG VW5 0004*
2 Faults Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+ 
--------07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
01218 - Side Airbag Igniter; Front Passenger Side (N200) 



Note: When "Short to positive" or "Short to ground" is found, DO NOT CLEAR THE DTC. This can cause the airbag to deploy. See repair manual for more information. 
Note: Intermittent codes are often stored during low outside temperature when the battery capacity goes down and may be ignored. 

I had no battery for a while... 

So I cleared the codes and drove to work...
Airbag light hasn't came back on yet...

ABS light came back on.. with 
1 Fault Found: 
01276 - ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64) 
16-10 - Signal Outside Specifications - Intermittent


So remembering that light was not on when i bought the car... and fuse box on the top of battery was melted... 
I assume/hope cleaning the fuse contacts should fix it as this post suggests... fuse S178, S179 ...


One question...

I was trying to clean all the vinyl inside the car... and found out that it was covered with some kind of protection layer(i assume) and it was dirty... i tried cleaning it and can't find a good enough chemical to clean it.... anyone had any experience with it?


Thanks!


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## Rockerchick (May 10, 2005)

Its the soft touch. Its a PITA to really get clean if its dirty. Removing it is probably your best bet. Lots of ways to do it. Hubby took the soft touch off his door handles on his Jetta using Purple Power or Simple Green (Don't remember which) and a Scotch Brite pad. I'd go read up over at NewBeetle.org. Lots of threads on the subject.


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

i already cleaned the doors... just need to clean the dashboard... this soft touch is insane 
i tried "tuff stuff" and "armor all detailer" both works to a point... but have to clean multiple layers (argh) and the cleaning cloth is useless after couple uses  i fear that scotch brite might scratch the dashboard... 


so... i just cleaned the fuses and fault code is changed to 
01276 - ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64)
---16-00 Signal Outside Specifications 

* Possible Causes*
---ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64) Connector to Control Module faulty
---Wiring and/or Connector(s) faulty
---ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64) faulty
---Brake Electronics Control Module (J104) faulty 

*Possible Solutions*
---Check ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64) Connector to Control Module
---Check Wiring and/or Connector(s)
---Check/Replace ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64)
---Check/Replace Brake Electronics Control Module (J104) 

hmmmm


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

no more abs light 


Cleared the codes for abs at 7:30AM
Codes cleared and reappeared 30 sec after/while driving...
Drove 12 miles...
Cleaned the fuses near the battery at 12:30PM ...
Got a bit different description with code... 
Tried to clear the codes again... couldn't clear the code...
Drove for 12 miles... parked the car for 2-3 min... started back up... reversed the car... 
And no more ABS light...
Drove 4 miles... still no ABS light... 

 very happy...


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

breaks squeals now sometimes... only while driving... without breaking... 

hmmm


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Sounds like you have really gotten through allot of things in your troubleshooting and repairing process! Congrats! 

Squeaking brakes: 

You might check the brake pad for wear; many pads have a metal tab that "squeaks" when worn down, I can't remember if the NB has these but worth a look. Considering how old these cars are getting; going through the brakes, is a good idea and any number of things could be dirty, need cleaning or worn out.


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

Thanks billymade.

I will check the breaks asap... 

fixed the front grill this weekend.. and put front wheel well guards...
Fixed leak in rear left stop light... took it out hairdried the water out... sealed it with rtv sealant... (problem hehe water wasn't completely dried out, stuck in outer layer of the light lol)

Couple questions. .. 
what could be the cause of grayish(almost white) smoke on cold start (not on every cold start) ?

Side mirrors does not go down when put in reverse gear. Do they even suppose to? Maybe I'm just dreaming hehe.

Hazard lights/turn signals gets stuck sometimes at on position and does not blink... I wonder whats causing that... must be the hazard light switch hmm... 


ABS light turned off by it self... i guess cleaning the fuses fixed it... 


Need paint done... oil change... coolant flush... fuel filter changed... 2 wheel hub caps... and tires soon... and maybe fog lights (original ones look rusty n broken in crash)


Any suggestions for fuel filter clamp? The one that's on it is very rusty, doesn't look like it will unscrew. 


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Couple questions. .. 
what could be the cause of grayish(almost white) smoke on cold start (not on every cold start) ?

_I don't know your climate or where you live (cold mornings may show some sort of "smoke") but does the "smoke" have a sweet smell to it? If it does; it maybe you have a head gasket issue (coolant is being burned in the cylinders) or the car is running rich or just not tuned? You could do a compression check or more accurate leak down test, to confirm the potential head gasket problem. They also have; coolant testing kits now, that use chemicals to detect if there is any residue in the cooling system that would indicate a head gasket failure. 

Here is a good article that shows the tester and discusses how to do it: 

http://www.importtuner.com/tech/impp_1108_blown_head_gasket_diagnostic/

How is the car running as it is; if you have a scanner you could check long/short trim numbers and 02 sensor readings etc. 
_

Side mirrors does not go down when put in reverse gear. Do they even suppose to? Maybe I'm just dreaming hehe.

_I don't know what you mean "does not go down"; please explain more. _

Hazard lights/turn signals gets stuck sometimes at on position and does not blink... I wonder whats causing that... must be the hazard light switch hmm... 

_There is a common problem with the switch in the steering column; that is part of the turn signal selector or "stalk". You can replace it or clean the contacts and potentially fix the problem that way. Unfortunately, this would require the removal of the steering wheel and the airbag, more involved but it is doable with the right tools, and attention to safety issues (airbag deploying; disconnect the battery).

Here is a how to: 

turn signal failure - take 2

http://newbeetle.org/forums/questio...eetle/34416-turn-signal-failure-take-2-a.html_


Any suggestions for fuel filter clamp? The one that's on it is very rusty, doesn't look like it will unscrew. 

_They get rusty; depending on where you live, spray some penetrant on it and you should be able to get it off, if not... just use some ***** to cut it off or some tin snips. Get a new one or reuse the old one; if you were able to remove it. 


Got any updated pics? Would like to see; how things are progressing and looking! 

Keep us posted as your troubleshooting and repairs; progress! _


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

it only smokes on cold start after a long drive(must be something in the engine)... hmmm I'm in Philly so climate is like 70 to 100 at the movement... I couldn't smell it yet (since it does not smoke every time, plus it's not my daily commute)...

i still have water in the cooling system, need to put coolant asap. and oil change. 

i did a coolant pressure test in the beginning of the year while troubleshooting "where water was coming from underneath the car " pressure stayed... haven't looked much into it after that test... after 300+ miles coolant(water) level is still the same...

i have a feeling it's the AC drain... or something 

i have a vag-com cable with ross-tech software... i'll see if i get some o2 sensor readings... 

by side mirrors going down.. i meant "side (rear view)mirror tilt on reverse gear"... i see a switch where you adjust your side mirrors.. the switch has three options 2 for adjusting mirrors and the last one i am not sure off, which i thought might be the tilt option.

i read some where that you can spray contact cleaner in that stalk assy that should clean it out... 
let's see what i do with it... if i get the tool to open the steering wheel up or not 


i will post the pics asap. thank you for your input! keeps me encouraged


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## Rockerchick (May 10, 2005)

The mirrors don't tilt if you put it in reverse. That other setting you see is for the mirror defog.


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

Rockerchick said:


> The mirrors don't tilt if you put it in reverse. That other setting you see is for the mirror defog.


oh that make sense  thanks! i wish it had that


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

I just bought; a airbag removal tool, off of amazon. It is the same one; sold by Volkswagen, through Snap On. It isn't too expensive and works well, others have been able to remove the air bag with just a screwdriver but I was getting nowhere. If you are going to be working on your bug yourself and keeping it, for awhile... I think the tool is worth it. 


*SE Tools VW1325 Airbag Removal Kit for New Beetle: Price:	$46.78 *

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0096MWOES/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

_It seems to be; out of stock at the moment but you can order it online other places or call the company direct: quote from their email to me:_ _* This VW Airbag Removal Kit can be sold to you for $44.30 each. You can give us a call at 810-664-2981, to place an order.*_


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

I guess Left-Rear rotor is bad... bent or something... hard to turn on half of the rotation... got a video ... 





Failed (Break Diag) lol





On Jack Break Diag





Bad Rotor 


seems like hazard light module is bad...





took out the bulb for the Air Control Module. got pics... [see post below]

took some pics from front end
will post soon.
















Holes for the bumper cover were destroyed... i made some holes and used zip ties 

While driving last night... ABS light came back on... in the morning light is gone again... hmm


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

*Instrument_Pannel_Air_Control_Knob_Blub_Lamp_Remov al*

I saw couple posts for this... but none were this visual 

I took it out with my bare hand while driving to home...
Jiggle it a little... Jiggle it a little more... be patient...
There are tabs at the left and right at the end of the knob... so maybe pull the knob in side to side motion...
Do it on a sunny day... so the plastic(knob) is not that hard...
Knob can be pulled in any position... i pulled it at 1.



























Notice the 2 small tabs around it...









I used a toy pliers lol









with insideout tape on the nose.
Grip the bulb for a min so tape can do its work... then pull in a quick motion... blub is kind of clipped in... 
don't crush the bulb (i had funny feeling for that when i started with a real needle nose pliers) use the vacuum tube trick if you don't want to take a risk. (maybe ill do a test that after how many lbs of pressure will this bulb break at )


















Close up...









Size compassion...



I hope some one can benefit from this. 

Thanks!


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

What code came up? Post up; those codes!


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

billymade said:


> What code came up? Post up; those codes!


I wasn't able to get that  since it(MIL) just disappeared this morning.


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Actually, the codes should reside in the ecm (memory); until they are cleared!


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

alrighty  i'll try to get them tonight


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

I looked at your brake rotor videos; those rotors are toast! I would just replace them (new pads/rotors/clean/lube everything according to the bentley); generally, not very expensive for all the parts (replace any of the hardware that is worn, rusted out or broken as well). I would also; make sure all the hydraulics are in good shape and make sure the disc brake calipers are not leaking, piston boots torn etc, the emergency brake cables also rust out and break... check them out to... since your in there! Back in the day; turning your rotors was pretty normal but these new cars, the rotors are thin and if they are pulsating, my experience has been; the "hard spots" in the metal will come back and start pulsating again (ask me how I know!). Do it right the first time and you probably, will not have to deal with the rear pads for a VERY long time; typically, the front pads will wear out before the rear ones will! How many miles on the car? Also, being in PA; rust/salt issues, tend to destroy things earlier as well; by the way I used to live in Greensburg (outside of Pittsburgh!).  So, I have an idea; of what you are dealing with! :banghead:


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

I like your replies 

at 130000+ miles

Good to know that they are that bad  hehe I tried cleaning them up by using ebrakes on 40mph couple times  lol didn't help much...

ill try to do the breaks... see how that works out  (never really done all break parts yet  atleast not alone ) 
ill look for the Bentley in my pdf files 

thanks again for all the good info


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

If you do the rear brakes; you will need a caliper tool, that pushes the piston back in, while rotating the piston it at the same time. You cannot; just push it in; like the front calipers with a c clamp. You might be able to rent this tool from a local auto parts store or buy one inexpensively at a place like harbor freight. 

https://www.google.com/search?q=vol...q=volkswagen+rear+brake+caliper+tool&tbm=shop

Here is a video that shows the dis-assembly of the brakes and the use of the caliper tool: 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1lzq2KAwEqw


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

Rockerchick said:


> The mirrors don't tilt if you put it in reverse. That other setting you see is for the mirror defog.


This is what I was talking about. See the one one the far right? Defog one is on the left..


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## Rockerchick (May 10, 2005)

Its probably to fold in the mirrors. But I'm not certain. I didn't have that in my Beetle, nor do I in my GTI.


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

hmm whatever it is  it does not work on my car


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

*Turn Signals*

So... finally figured out the problem with the turn signals.. about a month ago

I replaced the hazard light switch.... didn't fix...
Then replaced turn switch arm behind steering wheel... didn't fix! (one of the clips were stuck on that steering wheel took forever to push it.. had to use lots of force)

So after all failed........

Took out the fuse for the turn signals... put it back in/out couple times to clean the corrosion!!! inside the fuse box...
And fixed! 


Also about 2 months ago... I took the car to a mechanic to get AC and rough idle checked. (AC was dead, compressor wasn't kicking in)
They said the control module is probably dead! I was like can you please check the fuses on top of battery... they said they did... so next day I picked up the car paid like 150 for nothing.
Drove it home... took out the fuses from the high voltage fuse box... cleaned it and put it back in...
Fan kicks in... n touching one of the coolant hose!! then I shut the engine off... figured radiator was not in place! argh!
fixed it... n went back to the shop and told the story... one time i took my car to a shop... n that's what i got lol

anyways... 2 weeks ago i finally replaced the fuse box... and the AC works fine now... 

and that's the story of my life hahah


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Cool! Sounds like your are working through many problems with yoru new beetle. Got any updated pics? Have you done anything else; since your last post? It has been awhile; would like to hear any updates you have done, since then! Your not the only one; who has had bad experiences with taking a car to a shop, most of the time... I seem to be able to figure things out and repair things, if I take the time to trouble shoot and do it myself (better then shops; I have been to). Then again; if I knew of a shop, that really knew what they were doing on VWs, it might be a different story. In my area; there aren't any really good shops that work on VWs; even the VW dealer service dept. is incompetent (no suprise there)! :screwy:


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

*Pic update...*


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

WOW! You have come a long way baby; compared to when, you started! Good job! :wave:


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

Greetings all... 
Yes long way hehe

2-4 new problems...
Radiator leaking caused by parking slab... 
And lost keyfob possibly trashed. Lol don't ask.

I have a mechanic/valet key but it did not start the car ever.


Alarm couldn't be turned off because unlocking door does not unarm the alarm. If I had a key that opens trunk that could havr fixed this issue.
So to unarm the alarm this is what I did:
1. Open door
2. Open hood/bonnet
3. Wait for a minute or so so alarm stops beeping. 
4. Unplug battery's both terminals.
5. Put the mechanic/valet key in ignition and turn it to on position. 
6. Plugin the battery. 
7. Alarm light stayed off.



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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

So after a week or so.. recieved a new keyfob including a new transponder. 

I put the new key on top of the mechanic key and turned to start.. no go obviously.. its not coded yet. Left the new fob sitting on the valet/mechanic key on ON position.

Tried adapting the transponder with vagcom but failed because it needs a full version of vagcom to do that.

Another problem I had was radio was in safe mode from couple months... so I wend in radio options in vagcom... and hit recode... looks like it overwrote same settings but safe mode is gone now... radio is back to normal without entering any code.

While playing arround with all that... I tried turning the key to start and car started...

Not sure if vagcom just made the key worked or was it the transponder.
Car now starts with mechanic/valet key without the fob. Not sure how long its gona last, I read somewhere that its activated for only couple days if you dont use it.

Will try to get full vagcom.. program the transponder.. n the key...

Let's see...


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

BEFORE STARTING: make sure; that your new key or fob; has a "rfid chip" inside it, many times they don't come with a new one. Read this link; for more info: 

http://www.fixmyvw.com/vw-key-fob-programming-guide/

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/i...ng-for-vw-and-audi-with-key-replacement-tips/

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/k...bleshooting-mk4-jetta-golf-new-beetle-passat/



Keep in mind: of a particular problem, that I have run into when programming with VCDS/VAGCOM. The battery voltage; has to be kept up to a certain level and it is easy to drop below it, causing a programming failure. There are specific prerequisites; that must be met, before a successful programming session can be done.

Seeing that you have a year 2000 New Beetle; you have the "immobilizer II":

Key Matching

Prerequisites:

While adapting each key, make sure to place the other keys away from the ignition lock (reader coil). The passenger seat is an adequate place.

You must have all of the keys you intend to be able to use, including the valet key if you have one.

Battery voltage at least 12.5 V. (I found it necessary; to use a battery jump box and/or a battery charger, to help maintain this minimum voltage level)

Step by Step instructions: 

Immobilizer II Key Matching (Cluster)
This procedure details how to match new keys to VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda vehicles with Immobilizer II, where the immobilizer control module is integrated in the instrument cluster. 

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Immobilizer_II_Key_Matching_(Cluster)


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

Thanks for the heads up...
just tried programming the transponder... and realized that I need some kind of code to program it... sku or some 7 digit code.

So I skipped that for now...
And programmed the remote... that now works...


Any idea why my mechanic key was not working before and why it works now? And will it stop working soon for any reason? I thought the key with wrench logo did not have transponder.. then how is it starting the car.. should I test starting the car and leave it on for a while?

Another thing I noticed that when I locked the car with remote car did not beep on lock but it is armed.

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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Programming the keys; will require, you to have the "secret key code" or (SKC), which requires, the use a special auto locksmiths scan tool or a program/cable like VagTacho. You can read more about this; from these guys: 

http://www.sidewinderkey.com/ (you can purchase vagtacho from him for $50)

http://www.fixmyvw.com/genuine-vagtacho-tool-for-programming-keys/

I don't know; why your key, would work and not work. From my own experience; when, the battery goes dead, the immobilizer can go goofy and "forget" the keys, that are programmed to it. Other issues; can be something in the immobilizer/security system; is malfunctioning and needs repaired. The most common problem; is the speedo cluster itself, many times they get damaged and this causes, a intermittent problem with the immobilizer kicking on, causing the immobilizer light to blink, causing a no start condition. 

This typically, will throw a code:

17978/P1570/005488 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17978/P1570/005488

A hard "reset" is a good; first way to work with the issue and if the problem persists, rematching the keys is a option. If there still is a issue: possibly, having the cluster rebuilt or the immobilizer deleted from the ecu would be my next step. In my case; my speedo cluster was bad and a new cluster, fixed the problem permanently.

When it comes to programming the keys yourself; you will need access to VagTacho and VCDS, you can purchase or rent these tools, you have to decide the cost effectiveness of the money required to do this or a local auto locksmith, could probably do it for cheaper and less learning curve required to do it. I have done it myself; it is possible and if you like to work through this sort of thing, it can be rewarding when you are all done. Just know; there is a learning curve involved but if you continue to work with Volkswagens long term, having the VagTach and VCDS can really pay off. As with anything; your mileage may vary and your success, depends on your own willingness to work through the process and having the patience to be persistent, as things don't always work as they should (especially if you have never done it before). If you are patient and keep at it; you should be able, to program your keys yourself with the right tools.

From my understanding; ALL of the keys, come with RFID chip inside them, even the "Valet" key (check the myturbodiesel.com: for a pic of the valet key opened up with the chip inside). So, the machined /grooved part; is just the physical part that makes the tumbler/lock work and the RFID chip, actually "handshakes" with the system, so the ecu lets the car start.

If you have a key; that does not have the RFID chip "matched" to the car, the car will start for a few seconds and then die. This, is because; the immobilizer, is killing the ignition and that is how the security system works to stop would be thieves, from stealing the car.

As for not "beeping"; I have heard of different cars, acting differently when using the key fob. My car; beeps once, when the key fob is using to lock the car but this feature is programmable, so you can change this. Sometimes, when the door lock module; has a problem (failure: caused by bad microswitches and/or bad solder joints), the car won't arm, interior lights won't come on or the car won't beep. Read more about this possible issue here: 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...cks-explained-why-you-re-having-problems!!!-(


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

How about; some updated pic of your long term results with your New Beetle? All your old photos; aren't working, anymore!


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

So some how the mechanic/valet key starts the key now without any problems... hoping it ll stay like that.

Will update the links when I get on pc... dropbox must have moved my files lol.

Thanks for all the info!

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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

I would request; some NEW photos, so we can see where you have taken the car to. You have done allot; in the past couple of years, it would be cool to see it, in its current state. :wave:


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## heart_crafter (Jun 21, 2012)

Ah ok Sure.. 

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