# The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post



## [email protected] (Mar 10, 1999)

This is the old 2.0L FAQ and will no longer be updated. Please see the new FAQ here...
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2265105


----------



## m1 (Sep 4, 2002)

*Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post (Verruckt)*

Anything you could ever want to know about the Neuspeed Supercharger, its various applications, modifications that can be made to it etc: 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=194518


----------



## Wheel Man (Jul 10, 2002)

*How to paint your mkIII intake mani*

*How to paint your 2.0 inatake manifold* 
for all of you who have asked I thought I would tell you in one simple thread how to paint your 2.0 intake manifold. feel free to add your own pic's of your engine's to.
First off I used ceramic engine paint rated to 500f +plus ceramic clear coat. this is avalible at almost all parts stores in many diffrent colors.
to do this to your 2.0 firts disconect the negitive battrie cable, then you will need to disconect everything that is conected to the maniflod. I did this as I went along when ever I could reach something. (make sure you know were it gose when you put it back together)
some things conected to the upper intake maniflod are a little bit easyer to take off after you take off the top maniflod (like the EGR)
once you have the top off decide if you want to do the bottom.
the lower intake maniflod is not that hard to take off once you get the injectors out.
to take the injectors out just carefully pull them out. (I pulled them out along with the fuel rail but that might not be the best way) I would sugest looking at a repair manual if you wonder how somehting comes off. also plug up the holes in the intake side of the head that are now exposed so that stuff dosent get down there.
Ok so now the upper intake manifold is off, and mabey the lower to if you decided to do that also.
use some degreser to clean them real good, and scrub them with something like a scrub brush.
make sure to get as much junk off as posible.
then rinse them off and let dry.
EDIT: make sure to mask off all of the runners so you dont get paint inside 
once it is dry you ar ready to paint. (please read the instructions on the paint can first)
I first painted the parts of the maniflod that you dont see, so that I would know what to expect.
I used one light even coat then let that dry for 10 min. and then did one even full coat. (my paint called for 3hrs of drying time but it was cold so it took longer)
after you have all sides evenly painted with the color of your choice use the same method with the ceramic engine clearcoat, this will make it nice and shinny and easy to clean.
once everything is dry (like realy, realy dry)
you are ready to assemble your new painted intake manifold.
the paint will still chip untill it gets hot. once everything is on then touch up the spots were you might have chipped it and were the upper and lower manfold meet. (use a small brush for this)
then make sure everything is conected and tightend down and reconect the battrie cabel. let it idle for a few minets so the ECU resets it self (just to be safe)
once the engine is hot you can apply another coat to the touchups if you like (with brush)(and only small areas). after fully painting it to avoid chiping while instaling you could blast it with a heat gun after the 3 hrs are up. I have had this on my car for almost 6 months now and no chiping, or flaking.
Be prepared for a lot of drying time.
I started on a friday night (dissasembled everything and painted first coat)
let it sit over night then do the second coat and the clear. let it sit for 3 hours and put it on just in time for the GTG 
Just make sure to give your self the time to do this.
*I take no responsibility for you messing anything up on your car*
I just had to add that in there..
here are some pictures.
========
my maniflod half way apart 








the final product 








and a cool pic from the GTG 








Keep in mind that due to the paint drying time this mod can easly take all day, it took me from painting it one night to assembling it in the morning, while you are waiting for the paint to dry why not take this opertunity to clean your TB, and intake while it is apart, also this is the perfict opernitunity to clean the hell out of your engine bay so it looks all spifity








another posible benifit is that the paint is ceramic, there for disapating and reflectig heat coming up from the block on to the underside of the manifold. I noticed that after a drive and poping the hood that the Mani was cooler than before. I wouldn't recpomend a dark color if your are woried about heat though, but I would also not recomend you do this if heat reflection is your only reason because you can get it profeshonialy ceramic coated for better heat reflection.


----------



## Glenn J (Feb 16, 1999)

A3 2.0 Timing belt change directions with pictures:
http://www.vwenthusiast.com/cgi-bin/kozmic.cgi?technical/TimingBelt/timingbelt&tech.bot


----------



## Bob Roberts (Aug 13, 2000)

*Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post (Glenn J)*

A3 Fuel filter change: http://home.nyc.rr.com/kevinog/diy/diyfuelfilter.html 
Be careful not to cut yourself yanking the plastic bracket/cover off!
A3 OBDII chip install: http://www.iei.net/~chrphill/vw/vw.html


----------



## Red Baron Golf (Jul 18, 2000)

*Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post (Bob Roberts)*

ATC Flap mod and airbox mods: (thanks to Toby aka Air Cooled Nut)
http://www.icbm.org/erkson/personal/mycars/atc.htm
Best how to ever written on the topic and lots more info.


----------



## Red Baron Golf (Jul 18, 2000)

*Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post (Red Baron Golf)*

What cam should I get?
http://cabrios.20m.com/tuning/camshaft.htm


----------



## Red Baron Golf (Jul 18, 2000)

*Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post (Red Baron Golf)*

What chip should I get for my 2.0 litre? Read this:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=157103


----------



## iwanaleya (Mar 28, 2002)

*Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post (Verruckt)*

*DTC Codes*
Did you pull a code or codes and now need help finding out what it is and don't have a Bently(which you should) go *HERE* and scroll down.


----------



## Glenn J (Feb 16, 1999)

Cleaning your MAF sensor. A how to with pictures:
http://www.roadsleeper.com/gti/
Then click the MAF link under info in the left hand column.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*Techtonics Tuning SS cat-back w/Borla on a '97 2.0 sound clip.*

*For those who wanted to know what a TT/Borla sounds like on their 2.0, go to this link:*
click me
System can be purchased from a number of sources for anywhere between $400-$450(shipping price included)


----------



## Wheel Man (Jul 10, 2002)

*Re: Techtonics Tuning SS cat-back w/Borla on a '97 2.0 sound clip. (tdogg74)*

*Another tt/Borla sound clip*:
here is mine :
http://www.geocities.com/cg_meyer/borla.wav 
awsome exhaust, got it for $300 used http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## zuren (Sep 26, 2000)

*Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post (Verruckt)*

*Magnetic Oil Drain Plug*
This simple mod replaces your OEM oil plug with one that has a magnetic tip. The magnetic tip will pull ferrous material out of your oil before it gets circulated back into your engine.
Size and thread pitch of plug needed: M14x1.5
Can be found at a local auto parts store for ~$3 or from tuners such as http://www.autotech.com.


----------



## timmybgood (Dec 12, 2001)

*Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post (zuren1cs)*

*Spark Plugs!!* 
since everyone is always asking here it is...
Tools Needed:
-5/8" Spark Plug Socket
-Universal Joint
-6" Exstension
-OEM Plug Wire Puller(avail. from pottermans http://www.parts4vws.com) OR
-Needle-nose plier(if you use these you must be very careful not to tear the boot or you will get misfires)
-Bottle of compressed air
1)Remove plug wires, noting which goes where using Plug Wire Puller or Pliers. Once again, be very careful not to tear the boot or you will get misfires.
2)Spray area around plugs with compressed air to clear of dirt and grit
3)Create tool as follows SparkPlugSocket-UniversalJoint-Extension
4)Remove plugs and replace with new ones, making sure the new ones are properly gapped
5)Re-install Plug Wires in correct order
6)place key in ignition
7)turn car on
8)drive off! much easier and no need to take off the intake manifold like some people say


----------



## the governor (Jan 24, 2002)

*Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post (timmybgood)*

Everything you need to know about cams (found by tdogg74)
http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm


----------



## ramylson (Dec 11, 2001)

*Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post (DJ MiCRoByTe)*

Anyway, been having to post this quite a bit lately, so might as well make my life easier by putting the how-to in the "offical" post. This is a cheep how-to to fix cracked ignition coils on our car. More specifically, this is the vr6 fix, so it's not exact. But, it adapts over well to our applications. 
_Part II - Diagnosis
1) If you have noticed that on cool, damp days or after driving in
the rain (especially on the highway, especially behind cars/trucks) the
engine is running rough and misfiring, chances are the coil pack has a
crack(s).
2) When this happens, the "check engine light" WILL come on
immediately, because the emissions just went to hell.
3) If possible, pull over and pop the hood ASAP. If it is a
cracked coil pack you will notice (at least I did each time there was a
problem):
a) a fairly loud "snapping" or "clicking" sound immediately
followed by a rough spot in the idle.
b) visible sparks running along the coil pack, generally
from the wire terminal (where the spark plug wires attach) towards the metal
part of the coil pack. Each spark is tracing a water filled crack and
grounding the spark to the engine block rather than travelling along the
spark plug wire. Try to remember or draw the location of the sparks.
4) If you cannot pull over, or if you want to check later after the
weather gets a bit nicer you can easily simulate rain. Get a plant spray
bottle/mister and fill with clean water. Start up the engine and give the
coil pack area a good misting with the bottle. It may take a few sprays to
get the pack nice and wet. This should start the light show again. Try to
remember where the crack(s) is or make a sketch.
5) You now know you have the dreaded cracked coil pack. But have
no fear, there are options...
Part III - Repair Options
1) Take car to dealer, tell them the coil pack is bad. They will
respond "that's nice but we will have to confirm" ($56.49). They will then
call back several hours later saying "you have a bad coil pack" (duh) and
that for just $350 in parts and $100 in labor we can put on a new one. So
pony up $500.
2) Lucky for you, there are engineers out here who just can't stand
it when a biased party tells me that an inferior part needs to be replaced
with the same inferior part. So like all good men, especially engineers, I
start to tinker. Leading to a "fix" that has worked for 11,000 miles so far
- The $3.49 Epoxy Solution.
Part IV - The $3.49 Epoxy Solution
1) Drive a different car to Home Depot, Lowe's, etc. and get a
package of high strength, high temperature epoxy. I *think* the brand I
used was "Poxy-Weld"? It is the classic twin tube syringe, silver in color
with a cardboard packaging display that unfolded to give product
information. It is made to repair metal, plastic, etc. with higher
operating temperatures. It has Kevlar flakes to add
strength. I think the one I used was rated to 250 or 350 degrees. It was
like $3.49 for the tube.
2) In order to make the repair you will need:
torx wrenches or driver
allen (hex) wrenches or driver
damp rag
hair dryer
epoxy
12 hours (1 hour working, 11 hours waiting)
3) Coil pack removal. This is very easy. First remove the plastic
manifold covers. This requires torx head wrenches/driver. IMPORTANT.
Before trying to loosen the screws, bang the top of the wrench/driver with a
hammer while the wrench/driver is on the screw. Aluminum tends to "corrode"
quickly (look at the manifold) and slightly bond to itself. By hitting with
a hammer, the bond is broken and the screws can be easily removed. I know
this from experience (ie partially stripped screw heads). If you strip the
screw heads, I used a slightly larger allen wrench and literally hammered it
into the torx grooves. Of course you then need new screws ($12). Once the
four screws are out, plastic covers come off easily. You can now see the
whole coil pack.
4) Unplug the wire harness attached to the top of the coil pack and
move out of the way. If I remember right it has pinch clips on the side to
unlock the harness. Unplug the spark plug wires. Make a diagram of which
plug number goes where.
5) The coil pack is held to the engine block by four, long allen
(hex) screws. I found a hex driver with an articulated joint made the
removal easier. A socket wrench should also work. Unscrew and remove the
pack. It is a bit heavier than you might think so be careful when removing
the last two screws.
6) Take coil pack inside. Ignore the "you are not a mechanic"
insults coming from the living room (be the ball Danny). Take off plastic
cover on the top of the pack (just pop over the small clips). Wash off the
coil pack with a damp cloth. If it is really dirty, a bit of Dawn can work
wonders. Just make sure to wipe off the soap well. You will now want to
dry the pack WELL with the hair dryer. I was probably a bit anal about it
but I sat in front of the TV for like 20 minutes just drying the pack.
Since there is no real way to tell if all the water is out of the cracks, I
was conservative.
7) You are now ready for the epoxy. Mix a healthy amount is a
small disposable container. I used a popsicle stick to mix and spread.
Start applying a liberal coat of epoxy. The first time I did it, I only
covered the places I had seen sparks. Of course about two weeks after the
first fix, a new crack or one I had not seen developed so I did it again.
This time I covered the entire plastic portion of the coil pack.
Concentrate on the area between each terminal and the edge of the pack. No
problem since. So either coat the cracked areas or just do the whole thing.
I would recommend the whole thing. The epoxy tends to get a bit sticky so
it may work best doing two batchings.
8) Set coil pack in a warm place to dry overnight. I did this in
December so by a radiator worked well. Just don't put outside since it
makes the curing take a lot longer.
9) Reinstall the next morning. I actually did this before work one
day and it took all of about 10 minutes. Put plastic cover back on pack.
Install pack with four hex bolts and reattach the wire harness. Plug in
spark plug wires in SAME LOCATIONS. Install plastic manifold covers (I put
some grease on the aluminum screws before installing to prevent locking).
10) Start car and she should be running like new. It will take at
least 3 warm-up/cool-down cycles to reset the "check engine light"

I hope this helps those interested. It has worked like a dream for me. And
at 3.49 vs. 500.00 it is a no brainer to at least try it. Worst case you
know how to install the pack and can just order the part from a mail order
place (Adirondack, potter, etc.) saving the dealer rape.
I would actually recommend doing this as preventative maintenance. It's
cheap, easy and can same some significant bucks. If I ever HAVE to get a
new pack I will do it before installing, just to reinforce it against
cracks. Feel free to write back with any questions.
_


----------



## bajan01 (Nov 26, 2001)

*Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post (Verruckt)*

*Installation of Oil Pressure Gauge*
This installation was done on an OBDI 2.0L motor (ABA) but it can certainly be applied to other motors
Oil pressure gauges have to be attached to a sources of high pressure oil and this is easily done by mounting the sender (electrical) or hose fittings (mechanical) to the oil cooler that sits above the oil filter.
On top of the oil cooler you will find an oil pressure sensor as well as two 5mm Allen-head bolts.








By removing one of these bolts you now have a mounting hole for your sender (electric) or hose fittings (mechanical). The threads on these bolts are M10x1.
M=metric
10=10mm
1=1 thread per millimeter (10 threads per centimeter)
Some oil pressure gauges will be 1/8" NPT threads (National Pipe Thread) while some will be metric such as VDO gauges. AutoMeter gauges have NPT threads. These have 27 threads per inch which is very close to the 10 threads per cm on the M10x1 bolts that are removed from the oil cooler. 1 thread per mm is equivalent to 25.4 threads per inch. So a 1/8" 27 NPT thread sender will in fact fit into the M10x1 hole in your oil cooler but if you want to do it right get an adapter. I like to believe that VW guys/gals are not butchers. Summit has one for $11 and that is what I used on my Jetta.
*Adapter from Summit Racing*








Once you have the adapter to adapt the 1/8" NPT sender or hose fittings to M10x1 go ahead and put them together with a little teflon tape for a good seal. I used one that is designed for use with oils and I picked it up at Home Depot.
The adapter should come with a copper washer (gasket) which will give a great seal onto the oil cooler without the need for teflon tape.
With the adapter attached to the sender or hose fitting, screw the entire assembly on to the oil cooler.
If you have an electrical gauge you will have to run a signal wire from the cabin to the sender and if you have a mechanical gauge you will have to run the hose from the fittings on the oil cooler into the cabin to the gauge itself. I had a mechanical gauge once but after giving some good hard thought to the 100PSI line of oil in the cabin I changed it to an electrical gauge.
For the mechanical gauge all that is left to be done is to mount the gauge in the cabin and attach the hose to the back of the gauge with the brass fittings and some teflon tape. You may also want to connect the gauge light to your headlight circuit.
For the electrical gauge you will have to attach the sender wire to the back of the gauge but you will also have to run one of the wires to a switched +12V supply for power to the gauge. Feel free to run the gauge light to your headlight circuit at this time as well.
You should now have a working oil pressure gauge, either mechanical or electrical.
Here are some pics of my setup:
*AutoMeter Electrical Gauge*








*Sender and adapter*








* Different angle showing stock sensor*








Good luck and feel free to IM me if you have any questions










_Modified by bajan01 at 10:45 AM 4-17-2005_


----------



## Neckromacr (Aug 1, 2002)

*Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post (bajan01)*

Ball-Joint Removal/Instillation
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=916006


----------



## Silly_me (Jul 26, 1999)

*Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post (Neckromacr)*

A3 base suspension install


----------



## VTDUBDUDE (Sep 14, 2002)

*Cheap source for Hood Lifts.*

Find an old 240SX in a junk yard. Pirate the lifts off of the back hatch. They will fit, almost perfectly. All you have to do is remove one of the small bolts on each side where the quater panel meets the engine bay. Drill these holes out with a 5/8ths drill or equivelent metric drill bit. You will have to bend the other part to conform to the part where you attach to the hood. It will be the bolt farther from the windshield. Sorry I dont have a digi camera, or else i would take pictures. This cost me $5, and 15 minutes time.


----------



## A3Infidel (Nov 29, 2000)

*Changing an int shaft seal*

This is information for anyone getting ready to mess with their intermediate shaft / shaft seal etc.
I’m not a mechanic, just do this stuff in my garage with hand tools. Proceed at your own risk. Engine timing can be tricky, my method has worked but I’ve also screwed it up before too. That being said, take what you can from this. This took me about 2 hours with a few mistakes but I’m very familiar with all of the parts also.
Put the car in gear and set the brake. This keeps the car from moving and the crank from turning, thereby keeping the timing correct. 
Start by removing things as you would for a timing belt change. I like to pull the airbox and intake tube back to the throttle body for more room to work. The upper timing cover comes off with 2 clips. There is a bolt and a nut reachable from above on the lower timing cover that can come off now. The nut is hiding behind the timing belt tensioner. Use a long screwdriver to release tension and remove the belt from the tensioner. Now remover the tensioner. There is a plastic cover on the back of the wheel that hides the nut the bolt is screwed into. Remove the cover to hold the nut while you unbolt the wheel. Now you can reach the nut holding the lower cover on.
Now get under the car. There is a splash guard held on by 2 pins, pull straight down then pull the tab out of the hole. Now you need a hex socket to remove 4 hex bolts holding the serp and aux pulley, bolted to the crank. Don’t worry about the big bolt in the crank shaft, it doesn’t come out. With these pulleys off there are 2 more hex bolts to get the lower cover off.
Now you are looking at the exposed timing belt and gears. This is critical if you want your car to keep running correctly. Take the cap off of your distributor and look at the position of the rotor. Put a wrench on the bolt for the cam gear and rotate the engine until the rotor is pointing towards the front of the car (this becomes very important). NOW take a white grease pencil and mark the timing belt and gears, also mark where the rotor is pointing. Now put a spring clamp or vise grips on the cam gear to hold the belt in place (I also wedge something in at the crank gear too). Now loosen and remove the 19mm bolt holding the int gear to the shaft. Now loosen the timing belt tensioner. There should be just enough slack to slide the gear off the shaft.
The seal is usually seated in block and may not come out easily. You can take a drill with a small bit to start a hole in it then screw a long drywall type screw into the hole to pull it out. The seal is the same for the cam, crank and int gears.
Reassembly is just the reverse of disassembly but in a different sequence. This is what works easiest for me. First, slip the belt off of the cam gear. NOTICE the key on the shaft, this is a little half circle of steel that fits in a slot in the shaft, it falls out easily so watch it. If you set the rotor correctly this key should be facing up. Slide the gear onto the shaft carefully, if an edge of the gear catches the key it will pop out of the slot and you start over (I found the key laying on the ground after I had the lower cover back on). Once the gear is on line the belt up with the mark on the gear, now the crank and int gear and belt should be in line. Slip the belt around the tensioner and slide it onto the cam gear. It’s a lot easier to slip onto the cam gear than trying to line it up on the int gear. Once it’s line up tighten up the tensioner appropriately. NOW, put the bolt in the int gear and tighten down, the tension of the timing belt should keep it from turning. All marks should line up. If you crank too hard on the bolt you will jump some teeth and have to start over.
Now you are ready to reassemble.
My mistakes:
I was turning the shaft bolt the wrong way and the int gear skipped 4 teeth down. I made a new mark where I thought it should line up with the mark on the belt. This made me nervous because I wasn’t at TDC and I hadn’t marked the position of the rotor first.
The key for the int shaft was on the bottom so I didn’t see it when it dropped out, I found it on the floor while reassembling the lower pulleys. I had to rotate the shaft around, put the key in, put the pulley on and then rotate it back to the right position. I lined up marks on the belt and pulley then hoping they were correct after my earlier mistake.
I realized I had left the main bolt out of the shaft when I was reinstalling the lower pulleys, off they came again.
Got everything reassembled and the car would start and seemed to run fine but wouldn’t stay running at idle. I was sure I screwed up the timing. Just to make sure I pulled the upper cover off rotated the engine to TDC then pulled the cap off the distributor and saw that the rotor was at TDC. I hadn’t reattached the hose to the intake hose that runs along the back of the engine, thankfully I didn’t have to take everything apart again to adjust the int gear 1 tooth or something.
This is also the general procedure for changing a timing belt also.


----------



## gryph (Aug 24, 2002)

*Timing belt change: Addendum*

This is meant as an addendum to the timing belt change writeup posted above. This is all from my own experience with my own car, your milege may vary, but there are a couple things badly wrong with that writeup.
The tools you'll really need: 
13 and 21 or 22mm box end wrenches
10, 13mm sockets and short extension, 19mm 12pt socket (optional)
5 and 6mm allen wrenches, the longer the better
cheater bar if you can't get a long-handled allen wrench
#2 Phillips and 1/4" flat-blade screwdrivers
Sturdy bent-nosed snap ring pliers or small bent-nosed needlenose pliers
A friend
Once you have the car up and the tire off:
The splashguard protecting the lower pulleys on my '97 was held on with weird fasteners that were like a ring with six or eight teeth sticking inward holding onto a stud in the body. They're easier than they look to remove. Use your flat bladed screwdriver, and very carefully insert it in one of the slots between the teeth and twist. Don't just use one slot, keep moving around and be carefull. They will come off with no damage. 
Removing the V-belt:
When you're loosening the V-belt, don't use vise grips to take the tension off the belt, use a 21 or 22mm wrench (I don't have one, you can sub a 7/8ths if you don't have the right metric size) on the geared nut like you're supposed to.
Removing the airbox:
Unplug the MAF sensor. Loosen the hose clamps on the intake tube and pull it off of the airbox and the throttle body, then work the smaller tube off of the PCV valve. Now loosen the hose clamp around the ATC intake tube and remove it from the bottom of the airbox (if you haven't already removed the ATC system like I did - see above for instructions). Unhook the rubber hose running around the airbox from its clips, let it dangle a second. The airbox itself is held down by two rubber band like things down at the bottom of it, next to the alternator pulley, and one other attatchment to an emissions line. Remove the bands. The emisions line is at the rear of the airbox by the strut tower, a small cannister like thing with a rubber boot around it that slips over a piece of the airbox. Work with it, it just pulls straight off. The airbox should then lift up and out of the car. Congratulations, you now have room to work.
Removing the serpentine tensioner pulley:
In the writeup, it says to just unbolt and remove the pulley. Don't do that. Take the belt off FIRST and then remove the pulley. Of course, to remove the belt, you have to take the tension off the pulley. There are two ways to do it. One is to use a long-handled screwdriver between the pulley itself and the tensioner arm to pull it back away from the belt. The other (the one I used) is to use the 13mm wrench on the pulley's bolt to twist it back away from the belt. There's not that much tension on the thing, I had to repoosition my wrench on it and I could hold it in place by hand long enough to do that. Now just work the serpentine belt over the alternator pulley and you're golden. You'll still want to remove the pulley since there's a bolt behind it you'll need to get to, but doing it this way, you're not going to damage anything and you won't risk having the tensioner snap back suddenly and throw things or smack you.
Turning the engine:
If you don't have an auto or an LSD installed, you have another option to using the 19mm 12pt socket to turn the engine. The tire is already up so obviously you already have the parking brake firmly set and the car on one jackstand. Stick the car in 5th gear and turn the brake rotor. It's six of one, half a dozen of the other, here, but I found it easier to turn the engine with the rotor through the transaxle than with the ratchet. Leave the car in 5th gear, you'll need it there later.
Removing the pulleys:
DON'T REMOVE THE CENTER BOLT. You do NOT have to remove this bolt - in fact, you SHOULD not remove this bolt, it's a special bolt that has to be replaced every time it's removed. What you want to remove are the 4 allen head screws around it, those only remove the 2 pulleys that need to come off. (Thanks to punisher89 for pointing this one out.) You're already in 5th gear, now have a friend hold the brakes so that rotor doesn't turn on you while you give yourself a hernia taking the four screws out. They're in a high heat location, so they're gonna be a little stuck, but they will give. Mine made a loud CRACK when they gave. Carefull not to skin your knuckles on the water pump (like I did).
Tensioning the timing belt:
Bentley says you need a spanner wrench to tension the tensioner pulley. You don't. If you have a _sturdy_ set of bent-nosed E-clip/snap ring removal pliers or a small pair of bent-tipped needlenosed pliers, those will work fine in place of a spanner wrench. There isn't that much tension on the belt. I was all braced when I loosened the nut for the pulley to snap up against me and actually felt the belt tighten when the pulley came free. It really doesn't take much, just make sure you have a sturdy grip on the thing. Bentley says the tension should be enough that you can't twist the belt more than 90 degrees by hand.
That's pretty much it. The rest should be as in the writeup. Have fun. Don't break stuff.


----------



## slomofo. (Jul 19, 2003)

*Do it yourself cold air intake*

*Cold Air Intake How To on MK3*
go down to the local Pep Boys or wherever and get a generic 98-02 Accord V6 intake tube. i used an AEM Short Ram w/a K&N cone filter i got for free.
pull out airbox, leaving the mass airflow sensor attached to the intake tube, and put screws in the 2 small vaccum lines attached to the box
undo the screws to the splashguard
undo the aluminum canister that is hooked to the AC lines from its mounting bracket that is held in place by 2 10mm nuts
space the aluminum canister out 1.5" using backstrap material or an metal you can drill that is thin. see the top of following picture.








take the intake tube and put bolts in all open holes.
install the intake tube minus filter into the engine bay in the vicinity of where it will eventually be. 
attach the filter to the tube from inside the splashguard area using supplied hose clamps and couplers
bend the accord intake bracket that is attached to the intake tube backwards so that it comes within an inch of the inner fender, like in the upper corner of this picture. you will need to use spacers when bolting it in to take up the extra room between the bracket and the inner fender








attach everything together and your good as gold.
at first mine looked like this
















then i prepped it and sprayed it flat black so it looked a little cleaner and removed the AEM sticker. i put a TT sticker on there just for fun
















i noticed a little better top end gain with this over the modified airbox i was using and it's a lot quieter than a modded airbox. if you live in wet climates, you may want to remove this setup in winter time if you drive thru deep water. 
if you have a mk3 with the air pump, you will need a small filter for that line that goes into the airbox also. 
a nice cosmetic addition to this setup would be an ABD big bore intake tube. then it would all flow quite nicely.


----------



## ramylson (Dec 11, 2001)

*Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post (Verruckt)*

 _How to disable your Daytime Running Lights_  
This is from Virtual World Parts, but it's good information as there are differences between a few of the models.
1995-Early 1996: On the top row of relays, locate relay number "94" and remove it. Dropping down the fuse box allows a better grip on the relay. A small screwdriver may also be used to carefully pry it out. 
Late 1996-On: Locate relay #173 on the top row and disconnect the single yellow wire at yellow plug connection coming out of the back side of the relay, approximately 8" back.


----------



## VW97Jetta (Sep 5, 2002)

*Re: Changing an int shaft seal (A3Infidel)*


_Quote, originally posted by *A3Infidel* »_Put a wrench on the bolt for the cam gear and rotate the engine until the rotor is pointing towards the front of the car (this becomes very important). NOW take a white grease pencil and mark the timing belt and gears, also mark where the rotor is pointing. 

NOOO!!! Do NOT turn the engine over by rotating the camshaft!!!!!
Turn the crankshaft in a clock-wise directoin using a 12 pt. 19mm socket and a long extension - watch the cam gear to line up the TDC mark. Once you have the cam at TDC, then you go check your flywheel mark and distributor.....and if everything is right on, THEN you make your marks on the belt.....


----------



## Teets (Jun 24, 2002)

*Re: Do it yourself cold air intake (slomofo.)*

in regards to slomofo.'s DIY on cold-air intakes for the 2.0...
i did this myself, and took pics... 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...48638
not exactly a DIY thread, i did pretty much the same thing... but good detailed pictures along with a discussion about it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
NICK


----------



## Pagano (Sep 24, 2001)

*Re: Do it yourself cold air intake (Teets)*

Newbie to the 2.0 and what maintance can be done?
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=328319
BOOM!


----------



## BlueGTIguy (Mar 6, 2003)

*Water Pump*

Many around here suggest replacing the water pump when replacing the timing belt. Here's a link to a writeup: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1043156


----------



## LangsamKafer (Jul 17, 2001)

*Re: Water Pump (BlueGTIguy)*

2.0 Fuel Economy Thread: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1340365


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post ([email protected])*

is there a "how to" on adding MFA to a 2.0 OBD-1 ??


----------



## vasillalov (Nov 5, 2003)

*Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post (OhioBenz)*

Here is a complete DIY for spark plug removal and change on a 2.0 AEG engine:
http://dubpix.com/Pics/VORTEX/...G.pdf
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1474393
Enjoy


----------



## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

*Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post (vasillalov)*

damn like 80% of this thread is DEAD !


----------



## DonL (Feb 28, 1999)

*Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post (redzone98)*

2.0Dude's solution to a bad coil using an aftermarket performance coil is in this thread. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...84474 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## bajan01 (Nov 26, 2001)

*Plug Wire Order on Distributor Cap*

















Cylinder 1 is towards the timing belt side of the motor


----------



## jettajake00 (Oct 1, 2003)

*Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post ([email protected])*

*DIY Cam Install 2.0* (in particular the mark IV AEG) 
this may work on the older 2.0's, but I am not sure.
I would have a bentley/chilton/haynes manual handy just in case you need to be quickly bailed out...
_disclaimer_: do this at your own risk, i am not responsible for any mess-ups
a quick DIY...(without explaining explicitly step by step)
-take off engine cover.
-take off intake manifold. (you will have to unplug/take off various clamps/hoses) 
-take off valve cover.
-take out all spark plugs to alleviate compression so you can-
-turn the motor over by hand (easiest way IMHO is to take off the passenger front wheel, and plastic pieces so that you can get to your crank pulley, and turn over by that), until the mark on your cam gear is exactly lined up with the little arrow on the little black piece that is right beside the cam gear-this means it is top dead center (TDC)...
-mark the belt where TDC is with a crayon/white out so as not to lose your place on the belt, and know where to put it back on at
-loosen tensioner with snap ring pliers (only special tool you will need)
-take off timing belt while being careful not to let it slip off down below...(it is hard to do this anyways due to the space being so tight down there between where the belt is on the gear and the plastic piece holding it in, but if you are not careful, it can happen. you can hold it up with a pair of vice grips, or just let it sit there, without pushing it down)
-at this point, mark your little U shaped locks that are bolted on the cam that hold the cam down, as to make sure what the front side is vs. the back
-loosen the camshaft gear
-loosen all bolts on the U shaped locks (forgot the actual name of them)-but do not take off yet...loosen evenly, in the order of 1-3-5-2-4 going from the front of 1 to the rear of 1, and so on 1-3-5-2-4...then take off in that order as well.
-remove camshaft and gear.
-take the camshaft off the gear.
-slide the new camshaft into the gear, using the same little locking piece from old cam gear 
-oil new cam gear withmotor oil
-place the new camshaft with gear in (make sure it is at TDC back even with the arrow of the little black piece) using the same method of 1-3-5-2-4 slowly tightening until all tight
-put timing belt back on according to marks made
-tension timing belt
-check on the driver's side of the motor, down by the transmission-there should be a little black rubber plug that you can remove, and look down at your crank gear on top of which should be another indented mark which shows TDC on the crank gear...make sure it is lined up TDC, at the same time the camshaft is lined up TDC-this means that your timing is on, and right. this is critical to be on, so you do not damage your motor.
-get down below again and turn the motor over by had twice according to the crank gear-meaning the crank gear, not the camshaft gear has rotated back to the TDC mark again after 2 rotations...(you will need someone to watch the mark while the other one turns the motor)
-then check the camshaft gear TDC mark again, and make sure it is also TDC. if it is, you are good, timing is on, if not, you must take the belt off again. then move the cam back/forward until it is TDC again- replace the belt and start over until it is TDC at both the camshaft gear, and crank gear. once it is, proceed.
-replace valve cover (with new gasket if you wish-it probably is a good thing to do)
-replace intake manifold (with new gasket if you wish-it probably is a good thing to do)
-plug everything back up
-start motor
-let idle for about 10 minutes
-go for a test drive being easy on it at first, then you can be hard on it in all gears after about 15 minutes of driving smoothly.
-sit back, and enjoy a







(after you are done driving and sitting at home in your living room-not in the car







) now that you are done.


----------



## astaidl (Mar 19, 2004)

*Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post ([email protected])*

the camshaft links are all down permenantly.....need replacement info.


----------



## TeamNCT04 (Dec 17, 2002)

*Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post (astaidl)*


_Quote, originally posted by *astaidl* »_the camshaft links are all down permenantly.....need replacement info. 

Same here...


----------



## ez.roller (Jun 17, 2002)

*Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post (TeamNCT04)*

same here


----------



## DedRok (Feb 16, 2004)

There are different kinds of internerals on the heads of crossflows? Oil Squirters? I want to know which exact year of crossflow I should get. Someone suggested me one, but I dont know which one.


----------



## punisher89 (Oct 11, 2002)

*Re: (VWA2MKII)*

Oil squirters go in the block, down by the crank. And typically they are in the OBD-1 motors (pre-96), but there have been reports of the assemblers in mexico throwing together bastardized frankenstein motors. It is also said that OBD-1 heads flow better as they don't have this damn lump to help with swirl in the intake port.
BTW I currently have my name on the top 8 threads in this forum right now. This is an historic moment.


_Modified by punisher89 at 1:34 AM 12-16-2004_


----------



## ct_jetta (Dec 24, 2004)

*Fuel Filter Change*

link for the DIY info about the fuel filter change is broken, does anyone else have this info?
I actually have just a simple question about the clips holding the fuel lines, but I thought it wouldn't be a bad idea to read an entier DIY writeup about the process.
Thanks.


----------



## 2.0dude (Sep 25, 2002)

*Re: Fuel Filter Change (ct_jetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ct_jetta* »_link for the DIY info about the fuel filter change is broken, does anyone else have this info?

try this...
http://www.pocketrocket.ca/mk3_fuelfilter.html

_Quote, originally posted by *ct_jetta* »_I actually have just a simple question about the clips holding the fuel lines, but I thought it wouldn't be a bad idea to read an entier DIY writeup about the process.
Thanks.

the stock clips will probably need to be destroyed during their removal. just replace with standard adjustable hose clamps from the local hardware/automotive store.



_Modified by 2.0dude at 12:35 AM 1-4-2005_


----------



## ct_jetta (Dec 24, 2004)

*Re: Fuel Filter Change (2.0dude)*

thanks. i had later found a mirror of the diy for the fuel filter. (when i posted my question, the search function wasn't working)
appreciate the info very much.


----------



## VW97Jetta (Sep 5, 2002)

*Head Gasket Install / Head Swap with ARP studs*

I wrote this up for someone before since I couldn't do the swap for him as I had to work, so I figured I'd post it up here. He was doing a headswap, but if you need to do a headgasket it's all the same. He installed ARP head studs, which is why I mentioned them in the body of the text. 
Part 1: Disassembly
Ok.... first things first.... read this whole thing before touching a wrench. After you’re comfortable with it, gotta get the car jacked up or on ramps, and drain the coolant and oil. I'm sure you know how to drain the oil, so I'll explain how to drain the coolant...
Draining Coolant 
To drain the coolant, turn the thermostat in your car on to full heat. Then, locate the small hose going from the bottom of the radiator, and remove the hose clamp on the water pump with a pair of pliers; just compress the clamp and slide it back towards the radiator, and then pry off the hose with a screwdriver. Coolant should start pouring out, and then you can unscrew the cap to the coolant bulb. When coolant is done flushing, replace the hose and clamp.
After the coolant is drained, you’ll want to make sure the timing is dead-on before you start removing stuff. This is really not that difficult, but if you’ve never done it before, do yourself a favor and buy a grease pencil to make a couple marks. There are two ways to go about this – the more time consuming but more “accurate” method, or the less time consuming and possibly equally accurate method; but if the belt or intermediate shaft pulley slips, you have to re-time the engine manually. I’ll give you both, and you can choose:
Timing the engine via “Mark ‘n Match method
Remove the lower plastic cover that covers the v-belt. Also remove the screws that hold in the plastic piece that attaches to the underside just in front of the front wheel; will make access a bit easier. Locate the power steering pump, which is just below the water pump. It has a pulley on it and is closest to the bottom front of the car. There are 4 bolts you need to loosen/remove – loosen the two on both sides of the PS pump, then loosen the bolt that acts like a “pivot” on the top of the PS pump, and then the pain in the ass one to find if you don’t know where it is…. it’s a nut (not a bolt) that is in between and just slightly above the water pump and power steering pumps, and you’ll need a deep socket to get it out. It’s actually easier if you have a long extension and go in through the wheel well. Take that nut off, and you should be able to now push the power steering pump back towards the firewall. The PS pump acts as the “tensioner” for the v-belt, which is why you need to do all this. Now you can remove the v-belt.
To remove the serpentine belt, get a wrench and locate the tensioner. If you have a stock airbox, you’ll want to remove the whole thing to make life about 100 times easier. If you have an aftermarket intake, just remove the filter (and heat shield if you have a Euro Sport or similar). Put the proper-sized wrench on the bolt on the tensioner, and push down…..this will loosen the tension on the belt and you’ll be able to remove it.
Remove the upper timing belt cover. To do so, you will need to remove the upper intake hose, and also the crankcase breather hose (need to do this anyway later on – it’s the hose that goes to the round thing on top of your valve cover). There are two clips that hold the upper cover on. To remove the lower timing belt cover, you’ll need to remove the crankshaft pulley, which is held on by 4 allen head bolts. I’m pretty sure they’re 7mm (might be 6mm, but I doubt it…. I forget off the top of my head), so you’ll need an allen head socket attached to a breaker bar to loosen those bad boys up, along with a liberal application of liquid wrench. And, you’ll also need a 19mm 12pt. Socket on the crank bolt to keep the crank from spinning. Once you get the crank pulley off, you can remove the 3 bolts (two socket-types and one 5mm allen-type if I remember right) and then remove the cover. 
Now that the serp./v belt is removed, as well as the timing belt covers, you are all set to make your marks with the grease pencil. Bring the engine to Top Dead Center; you’ll see the |OT| mark on the cam gear….line that up with the arrow that’s on the plastic piece attached to the valve cover by rotating the crankshaft with a long extension, swivel, 19mm 12pt socket, and breaker bar. Turn in a clockwise direction. Once it is lined up, make 1 mark on each pulley…one on the crank, 1 on the intermediate shaft (middle pulley), and one on the cam gear (top pulley). Make the mark on BOTH the belt and the metal, so you can align them afterwards. On the cam gear, make a mark where the OT is, so you can easily transfer the mark from the old cam gear to the new one. Now is a great time to replace the timing belt if it needs it. Simply count the ribs in the belt from the old one, and transfer it to the new one. After the head swap is done, all you do is simply line up the marks, and your timing is dead nuts. It’s a no-brainer….a bit time consuming, but you will NOT screw it up if you align the marks and the timing was spot on to begin with.
Loosen up the bolt on the timing belt tensioner…. although you might have one of those auto-tensioner things which are a pain in the ass from what I hear. I’ve only used the manual tensioner, and you need either the VW tool to retension the belt when you put the belt back on afterwards, or you can get away with using needle nose pliers or snap ring pliers (for pistons). Anyway….slide the belt off the cam gear, and then you’re good to go. When you put the belt back on, the belt should be tight enough to where you can twist it at least 45 degrees, but no more than 90 degrees, between the cam gear and intermediate shaft.
Timing the engine via the “Bungee Cord” method
This method is much quicker, and is preferred by those who know how to properly time an engine. Remove the upper intake hose and crankcase breather hose, and the upper timing belt cover. Then use a long extension, swivel, 19mm 12pt. Socket and breaker bar to turn the engine to line up the |OT| marks. Make a single mark with a grease pencil on the |OT| mark on the cam gear, and the timing belt, and loosen the timing belt tensioner. Remove the belt, and use a bungee cord hanging from your hood or wherever to keep tension on the timing belt. Make sure the intermediate shaft pulley doesn’t slip.
Now that the engine is properly timed and the timing belt is off, you can remove the upper and lower intake manifolds. But first, remove the throttle cable from the throttle body….should be really easy to do – if you have problems with your fingers, use a pair of pliers. Take a look at how the cable goes onto the housing, and remove it. To remove the intake manifolds, use a 6mm allen socket, and don’t forget the 2 bolts in back that hold up the upper intake manifold. The AIR pump (big black thing attached to the intake manifolds) might be a pain in the ass, but you need to remove that to remove the lower intake manifold. Pull out the injectors/fuel rail…might take a little wiggling, but they’ll come out. No need to remove the injectors from the fuel rail itself. Remove the spark plug wires; you can mark them 1 through 4 starting from the passenger side, or just remember that the longest wire goes to the furthest plug, etc. Then the lower intake manifold.
To remove the exhaust manifold, you can use a ratchet and deep socket for all but one nut, which is located on the bottom row (there should be 10 nuts holding on the exhaust manifold). You’ll know it when you get to it…..for this nut, you NEED a deep offset 12mm wrench, otherwise there’s a good 90+% chance you’ll strip the ever-living **** out of it, and then you’ll be swearing up a storm. If you don’t have the wrench, get it……with it, removal of the nut is a breeze. In fact, you can use the wrench for them all if you want, but I usually just use my ratchet. The nuts might be on there pretty good, so soak ‘em in liquid wrench for a bit first.
Now you need to remove the coolant flange (black plastic piece that the coolant hoses go into) from the drivers’ side of the head. This can be a PITA – it’s best to use a small ¼” ratchet and small extension, and a deep 10mm (I think) socket. You’ll need to remove a nut and two “bolts” – and the plastic wiring harness kinda gets in the way. Don’t be afraid to use a little force to get it out of the way to slide the metal bracket off the 2 bolts. Once the bracket is off, you can loosen the two bolts, remove them, and then remove the coolant flange assembly – keep all the hoses and everything attached.
Remove the valve cover, and then you are nearly home free. You will need a 12mm 12 point triple square bit (you can buy them at NAPA) to remove the OEM head bolts, and for the ARP studs you will need (if I remember right) a 13mm 12 pt. Deep socket. The 12 point triple square bit will fit inside a socket actually, if you were trying to figure out how to use it. I believe there are 10 head bolts – start loosening up the center ones, and work outside. Do one on the right side, and then one diagonally on the left side, and so on. Once the bolts are all loose you can remove them, and then should be able to slide the head off. There should be a bolt or two holding the back of the timing belt cover onto the head, and don’t forget to remove these before you pull the head off. Once the head is off, use a gasket scraper to remove any excess gasket material from the engine block. Stand back and admire.

Part 2: Assembly
Read the directions on the ARP head studs, and follow them. Thread the studs into the block, only hand tight, and grease the threads with the supplied grease. Place the metal exhaust manifold gasket onto the head, and then place the headgasket onto the block – it goes on a certain way, so pay attention to that. Now you can place the head on the block….and sometimes with the head studs on the block, it can be a little tricky. Once the head is on, you can begin the tightening sequence. Again, start with the middle two and work outwards like with the loosening. The instructions should give you specific “stages” in regards to torquing the nuts down. Follow this. 
Once the head is bolted down, you can bolt up the exhaust manifold. Installation is the reverse of the removal.
Once the exhaust manifold is bolted up, liberally apply some oil or assembly lube (preferred) to the camshaft lobes, as I’m sure it’s been sitting awhile and is probably quite dry. You can now put the new valve cover gasket on and the valve cover. Don’t forget the plastic piece to denote Top Dead Center for the camshaft. Once the TDC piece is on, align the |OT| mark on the cam gear with the arrow.
Reinstall the coolant flange.
Reinstall the lower intake manifold, spark plug wires, and fuel injectors. 
Reinstall the air pump.
Reinstall the upper intake manifold and throttle cable.
If you used the mark ‘n match method for the timing belt, line up all the marks and put the timing belt on and then tension the belt (able to twist belt at least 45 degrees but no more than 90 degrees). Then put on the other two belts in the reverse that you removed them. To tension the v-belt, pull the power steering pump towards you while tightening the lower left hand bolt. Make sure it’s tight, but not so tight the belt doesn’t give at all. A half-inch to an inch of play is good.
If you used the bungee method for the timing belt, line up the mark on the belt with the |OT| on the cam gear, and slide the belt on and tension (able to twist belt at least 45 degrees but no more than 90 degrees). Remove the distributor cap and make sure the rotor is pointing at the “notch” in the distributor housing, which should be pointing towards the driver. After verifying the timing is dead on, reinstall the distributor cap.
Reinstall the intake host and crankcase breather hose, and the intake/airbox.
Fill coolant bulb with 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water. 
Cross your fingers and start the car. The coolant level should go down – keep refilling until it’s where it is supposed to be. Also, you don’t need to put the coolant cap on really, really tight, because it can be a bitch to get off if it’s on really, really tight.
Good luck…BTW, I did this all off the top of my head with like 3 hours of sleep, so bear with me. It may seem hard, but it really isn’t. Just read through, make sure you have the tools, and take your time.



_Modified by VW97Jetta at 6:48 PM 1-21-2005_


----------



## BlueGTIguy (Mar 6, 2003)

*020 transmission linkage resource*

Here's a great resource for tweaking your 020 tranny (MkI, II, III 4-cyl, 5-speed cars): http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel...shtml


----------



## vasillalov (Nov 5, 2003)

*Re: 020 transmission linkage resource (BlueGTIguy)*

Replacing the Spark Plug Wires on a 2.0 AEG engine (MK4):
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1931981
Also, here is my master DIY and VW resources list:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1915784


----------



## Pagano (Sep 24, 2001)

*Re: 020 transmission linkage resource (vasillalov)*

bump
...oh...wait


----------



## Robbovius (Nov 5, 2002)

*replacing the fuel pump relay.*

My 1998 2.0 5 speed NB died on the road, and the VAG COM gave me codes indicating a fuel pump relay failure (you'l find them in the VAG COM forum under the thread title "Codes indicating fuel pump relay failure...") so I bought a new relay and installed it.

there are a couple thing sto mention. 
1. the relay is located on the relay panel up under the drivers side footwell, left of the steering column. after you take of the bottom kick panel (three torx screws, slides out) you'll see the relay panel. the FP relay is in the bottom row, fourth from the left. (I swiped the pic below from the Newbeetle.org forums, it shows trhe position exactly)








2. you may find that the part you buy has a different identifying number on the relay cover than what you see on your relay panel. in my case, the original failed relay from my new beetle was numbered "167". The part I bought was numbered "409", was slightly taller, and had a couple extra blade connectors on the bottom. these differences had NO effect on fit or function.
3. after clearing the codes, you may find that the car runs crappy for a little while. clearing the codes resets all fuel trim adjustments to zero, and the car has to run and drive for a while in order for the ECM to figure out tthe best running configuration. in my experience, this has been between 4-12 miles.

_Modified by Robbovius at 3:12 PM 5-10-2005_


_Modified by Robbovius at 3:13 PM 5-10-2005_


----------



## francismartin (Dec 4, 2002)

*How to change timing belt A4, MKIV*

A4 (MKIV) How to change a timing belt, timing belt tensioner, water pump and accessory belt.
The engine is for an AVH, 2001 Jetta GLS, automatic. The AVH succeeded the AEG for a short while, then the AZG was produced. I believe most of the differences are tied to emissions but I can’t be sure. All the parts were ordered from Germanautoparts.com. They are helpful and knowledgeable. I’m sure there are others who are as helpful but they really have been great.
I’m not responsible for anything that goes wrong. If you’re like me, take a digital camera and take plenty of photos just in case you need to see how things come off. 
Also, use the note book to write down the steps taken in removal, it’s a nice checklist for reinstallation. I’m sure there are better ways to do this but this worked for me. This may be too detailed and simplistic for many of you BUT I had never done this before, all went well and the engine is now very, very quiet.
This took about 8 hours, including 4 hours of my helpers time. I doubt if we could do it in less than 6, we’re very slow.
ALL the bolts and screws came out easily, including the famed water pump bolts.

Tools required:
Ratcheting torque wrench up to 75 ft-lbs.
6 jackstands, 2 are screw types
1 hydraulic jack
Set of hex bit sockets 4 to 10 mm, 3/8” drive
Small and medium ratchets
Sockets (mm) 3/8” drive, up to about 20mm
Small socket extension, 3/8” to 3/8” (this is about the length of a standard 3/8” any mm socket), you’ll need 
to do a bolt removal, neither a deep socket nor a small extension would work
Strap wrench
1” diameter 3’ long cheater bar for engine mount bolts
Screwdrivers, flashlight
Small automotive mirror
Nail polish, white
2 pages of mailing labels
notepad, pen
oil pan
Materials:
About 1 quart of antifreeze and 1 quart of distilled water, to make 50/50 mix.
1 timing belt
1 timing belt tensioner
1 water pump
1 accessory belt (ribbed belt)
1 each 9” long 2x4
1 each 4” long 2x4
2 each mount to body bolts
2 each mount to engine bracket bolts
Note, I got these from the dealer, they were about $10.00. They had to be ordered and when I asked why 
they didn’t have any, the parts man said the mechanics just reused the old ones. This is not what the 
Bentley or Haynes says to do. Both state clearly to replace with new bolts.
Haynes Repair Manual and Bentley Service Manual. You’ll need one of these for the proper torque requirements. Also, I’m a poor mechanic and both these manuals were used during this. 
Make sure you have a helper to remove and reinstall the passenger engine mount bracket and the passenger engine mount. It’s also a lot easier if you have help to install the timing belt tensioner and the timing belt.
Check this forum for postings from Spitpilot, he explains clearly how to mark and match, you don’t need to find TDC. He’s right, dead nuts on!!!!
Do a search of this forum under timing belt to check for other tips.
To start:
The Bentley implies the engine and transmission have to be lifted from above. This is not necessary. 
I used the address labels to mark each piece and fastener as to where it came from and put them all in a cardboard box.
Remove the upper engine cover. Take out the oil dip stick, loosen the small bolt at the rear and pull the engine cover forward. Put it aside and replace the oil dipstick. 
Remove the ribbed belt and it’s tensioner. The tensioner has a notch that sticks out on the top of it and you can use a 15mm open end wrench to rotate it to “slack”. Just stand in front of the car, fit the wrench and pull it forward. Keeping it like that, remove the ribbed belt, then release the tensioner. Then remove the tensioner, 13mm socket, three bolts.
Remove the upper toothed belt guard. There are two clips one to the front and one in back, they are metal and pop off but stay attached to the cover. It’s not easy getting the cover off, I removed a vapor line that is to the rear and passenger side of the engine. Not knowing what it was (I assumed it was a fuel line but I think it was a vapor line), I removed the gas cap and fuse 28, which is located on the drivers side panel, which is what you’re supposed to do if you’re removing fuel lines. Put the gas cap back on right after the vapor line is removed.
Loosen bolts on front passenger tire. Block the rear wheels to the rear of the car. Jack up car in front, use two jackstands per side. Jack it up a good distance as you’ll have to slide a jackstand and two by four under the engine and transmission. Place the hydraulic jack under the engine with the 9” 2x4 the length of the lowest part of the oil pan “protector”. Jack it up 1/16” and slide a jackstand under the 2x4. Do the same with the 4” long 2x4 for the transmission. Put the hydraulic jack off center so the jack screws will support both. When it’s jacked up and the load it taken off of the engine mount, rock the car to make sure it’s steady. Remove left front tire. 
You’ll have to remove two sound absorbers, one to the front has 4 screws, 25 Torx and the passenger side wheel well one has two screw off fasteners and one Torx. They will slide out easy.
For the windshield washer reservoir, coolant reservoir and power steering reservoir, you do not have to remove any lines but the reservoirs have to be moved out of the way, per the below.
Unbolt the wind shield washer reservoir, there are two plastic fasteners, make sure you lift the reservoir OFF of the screws as you’ll have to move it to the front car to get the engine mount bracket out.
Unscrew the coolant reservoir, there are two screws.
Unscrew the power steering reservoir, there is one bolt holding it. On the top of the bolt is a plastic holder for some wires. You can flip this off with a screwdriver.
Remove the right side engine mount bracket from the body. There are 4 bolts and you’ll need the cheater bar. There are two sizes and I marked each bolt and the mount where the bolt went in with nail polish. The bolts were marked with one mark up to four marks. It was easy to figure which new one went where. You’ll also have to loosen a bolt on a bracket to the side.
You can now remove the engine mount to body bracket. Standing in front of the engine, pull the windshield washer reservoir towards you, move the power steering reservoir off to the right and push the coolant reservoir back towards the passenger compartment. Now while one person holds the lines out of the way, slide the mount to body bracket forward towards you and out.
The ribbed belt pulley is mounted on the crankshaft sprocket at the bottom. There are four 6 mm hex bolts and at the center is the crankshaft sprocket. The 4 hex bolts have to be removed. You do not need to remove the crankshaft sprocket. Counter hold the sprocket in the center with the strap belt and remove the 4 bolts. I used a 21 mm socket but should have used the strap belt to prevent damage to the teeth of the sprocket.
Remove the center and lower sections of the timing belt guard. There are three bolts that hold the center section. Two of these also hold the lower section.
Now use “mark and match”. Facing the car from the front, there are 4 things the timing belt runs over. The top one is the cam shaft sprocket, the one lower and towards you is the water pump sprocket, the smooth pulley towards the passenger compartment is the timing belt tensioner and the lowest one is the crankshaft sprocket. I marked 4 times with nail polish both on the timing belt and sprocket on the top (camshaft sprocket) and 5 times on the timing belt and sprocket (crankshaft sprocket) on the bottom. Let the nail polish dry properly.
Now, the engine mount to the engine must be removed. There are three bolts that hold it, one can be seen from the bottom, the other can be seen above it and the third cannot be seen but can be felt from the top in a “hole” where the mount to body was. These three bolts are horizontal and “feed’ from the passenger to driver side. The Bentley says the bolts must stay in for removal but we took them out, it was easier. The mount comes out through the top. Others have posted to where they have had to move the engine up and down but through patience and manipulation, we got it out, 5 minutes. Someone has to hold the lines out of the way while the other person manipulates the mount. It’s pretty big and is somewhat triangular in shape.
To remove the timing belt, you have to remove the tensioner. First, look at it. On the back and top are three things sticking up. One is a tab and is bent over. This part fits into a depression in the block about the size of a nickel. Of the other two, one has a point and the other has a “v”. If you push the two outside parts together, they move and you can line up the arrow in the center of the “V”. When it’s bolted on the engine, this should be their final position. Before removing the timing belt tensioner, take a look at how it’s lined up and how it will fit. With the tensioner off, the old timing belt will come right off. Be careful not to brush or remove the nail polish marks. You’ll need this belt when you “mark and match”. Make note of the two small holes on the face of the tensioner. You can use Craftsman bent pliers, Number 45655 by putting the thines into these two holes and rotating it to cause tension. Note it takes little effort to rotate the timing belt tensioner.
Remove the water pump. Put a bucket under the car to catch the coolant. Make note of the water pumps orientation as it is installed. There are bolts to the cooling pump and over one of these is the “rear timing belt guard”. These use a 13m socket. It’s stuck in a tight fit but it will pull out.
The removals are now complete.
Install the new water pump, to include the rear timing belt guard. Remember how it came off, we messed this up the first time.
Now, as a precaution, I counted all the teeth on the new and old belt to make sue the number of teeth were the same. We also counted the marks between each of the nail polish marks to make sure they were the same for old and new belt. It helps having an extra set of hands to transfer the marks from the old belt to the new. Let the nail polish dry properly.
Now, from above match the upper sprocket marks to the timing belt and have your partner match the lower ones from underneath. Put the belt on the sprockets about ¼ of the way, matching the marks. Hold the belt to sprocket for the cam and crankshat sprockets, all you have to do is press down on the belt where the water pump sprocket is and the belt should slip into the water pump sprocket. Hold these positions and now slip the belt completely on the tensioner pulley, while the pulley has yet to be installed. After that , slip the tensioner pulley with belt over the bolt that holds the tensioner pulley to the block. Remember the bent tab. Slide the belt completely onto the three other sprockets. Tighten slightly the bolt on the tensioner pulley. Make sure the bent over tab is at the top and slips into the depression of the engine. Using the mirror, rotate the tension with the pliers so the arrow matches the “v”. Now tighten to the proper torque.
Check each of the nail polish marks to make sure they are lined up.
Installation is in reverse order. Make sure when tightening the ribbed belt pulley on the bottom that the marks still line up.
Take jacks out of the way.
Now turn the motor by clicking the switch just to start but don’t start it. Do this 4 or 5 times. You’ll have to remove and reinsert the key after two tries because ti wont start to turn unless you do that. The purpose of this is to turn the belt so it seats properly.
Make sure you add ½ distilled water and ½ coolant.
Mistakes we made:
Put the bent lip of the tensioner in the wrong place. As the tensioner fits against the block, it’s at about 12 o’clock. 
Forgot to put the lower timing belt guard on properly. 
Forgot to use strap wrench on crankshaft sprocket, used a 21 mm socket. The reason for the strap wrench is to prevent damage to the sprocket so it doesn’t cut the timing belt later.
We buttoned up everything and lowered the car to the ground before we tested it. But we were positive we had it right.
Good luck.


----------



## Erotas (Aug 23, 2003)

*2.0 Supercharged/Turbocharged - How to*

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...41218


----------



## gltuner (Oct 7, 2004)

*De-ramping 2.0 Throttle Body*

I posted this in the mkIII forum, but figured you guys over here in the 2.0 forum would benefit from it as well. This was done on an OBD-II mkIII 2.0 throttle body, but will work on OBD-I as well. I am unsure what the structure of the mkII and mkIV TB's look like, but I am pretty sure you can do the same with no ill effects (don't quote me on that though







)
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...41483


----------

