# Official Stupid Question Thread



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

So this is a thread where you can ask any stupid/little questions with out making a specific new thread.


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

So my question is will these bolts work for a 15mm spacer?

Seat Type: Ball Seat 
Thread Type: 14mm x 1.5 (14x1.5 / M14x1.5)
Shank Length: 40mm


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

stock bolts are 14x1.5x28mm.

So 28mm + 15mm spacer = 43mm.

You're about 3mm short.

(nice thread idea) :thumbup:


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Will the 3mm make a difference? :facepalm:


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Not until the first 25mm have "unscrewed."

cheers.


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## Late__Apex (Dec 2, 2007)

Mantvis said:


> Will the 3mm make a difference? :facepalm:


I inadvertently installed some lug bolts that were about 5mm shorter and they wouldn't stay tight even when torqued properly. YMMV.


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## Currancchs (Feb 24, 2011)

nice idea for a thread. My stupid issue:

Front right marker light (the yellowish one on the lower part of the headlight) does not work with car running, left does. Both turn signals work normally, no quick flashing or warning lights on dash. Front left marker light goes out when the car is off, with the key on, but the right side then works :screwy:

All other lights work properly. Any ideas? (I can't imagine there are separate bulbs for when the car is on/off)


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

Weird ^^ did you try swapping the left/right bulbs to see if it's bulb related? I'd do that first.


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

DougLoBue said:


> stock bolts are 14x1.5x28mm.
> 
> So 28mm + 15mm spacer = 43mm.
> 
> ...


Right but you only need "X" amount of threads to grab (for what "X" is though).


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## Currancchs (Feb 24, 2011)

Neb said:


> Weird ^^ did you try swapping the left/right bulbs to see if it's bulb related? I'd do that first.


Just noticed this morning on my way to school, buddy I was following noticed it and told me, will try swapping them tonight. On a related note, I installed a Greddy FATT turbo timer, about a month or two ago, per their instructions (Hook up red to largest constant 12v source under dash, green to ignition on wire, blue to accessory wire) and the timer worked, but my dash lights and all background red lighting would not work. Also, about half of my lights didn't work (one brake light, one marker light, etc.). I undid the blue accessory connection and the next day all of my lights worked again (2-3 starts later). After that I figured it fixed itself/something reset ... I guess the marker light is probably a lingering issue from that. I did check all fuses about a week ago (I hate when fuses are upside down (numbers upside down - I'm a bit anal), and I wanted to check anyways, so I pulled every fuse out and checked/put back).


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Mantvis said:


> Will the 3mm make a difference? :facepalm:


Your car, your gamble. I'd personally stick to the math. I ended up just putting studs in my hubs at all four corners : )

On a side note I have 43mm bolts - a set of 10 I think cone seat that I was trying to sell awhile back.




Currancchs said:


> nice idea for a thread. My stupid issue:
> 
> Front right marker light (the yellowish one on the lower part of the headlight) does not work with car running, left does. Both turn signals work normally, no quick flashing or warning lights on dash. Front left marker light goes out when the car is off, with the key on, but the right side then works :screwy:
> 
> All other lights work properly. Any ideas? (I can't imagine there are separate bulbs for when the car is on/off)


There are actually two bulbs per headlight. One is a turn signal, the other the running light - it's confusing because they share the same electrical connection. Sounds like your right front running light is burnt out. 

In this picture look below the second zero at the diaganal connector and then between the third zero and 7 at the vertical connector.


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## Currancchs (Feb 24, 2011)

You guys are awesome, thanks! This thread is great, 2 small/stupid questions answered in the first couple of hours!


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

DougLoBue said:


> There are actually two bulbs per headlight. One is a turn signal, the other the running light - it's confusing because they share the same electrical connection. Sounds like your right front running light is burnt out.


But he said that it works when the car is shut off?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Opps Ben you're right... Must be due to that turbo timer wiring he was talking about?


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## Currancchs (Feb 24, 2011)

I figure if it isn't a bulb causing some whacky issues I must have burnt out something installing the TT. I'll first check the bulbs, but if not, maybe some contact in the headlight switch itself got burnt, my best guess. In any case, I don't want to hijack this thread since it is supposed to be quick answers, so if the bulbs are not the culprit I'll likely check the headlight switch and then start a new thread if that doesn't resolve the issue. Thanks for the advice though!


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

DougLoBue said:


> I ended up just putting studs in my hubs at all four corners : )]


My adapters are studded. I cant Imagine ever going back to the bolts ever again. If i ever buy 5x100 wheels again I will be having studs pressed right into the hub as you did:thumbup:


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## paullee (Feb 3, 2008)

had a similar issue a while back. Took the screw-in housings out, cleaned and made sure the metal prongs were making proper contact with the bult when installed. Worked for me after that. Good luck.


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

New question poped into my head!

What is a chance of ruining the fender while turning and hitting a bump?


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Learn to drive low and you wont risk $$$$ in fender damage


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

how easy/hard is it to ruin it?


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Depends if you know how to drive low


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

This is the stupid question thread, let's keep it on-point :thumbup: Here is one: why does the rear seat delete cost so much? :facepalm:


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

l88m22vette said:


> This is the stupid question thread, let's keep it on-point :thumbup: Here is one: why does the rear seat delete cost so much? :facepalm:


Same reason the pole positions cost so much


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

Mantvis said:


> how easy/hard is it to ruin it?


i doubt you would bend the fender but it's very easy to rub the paint off. Hit a dip in the road going around the corner and it'll do it. happened to my fenders with my OZ setup


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

I've seen it happen on many vw's but our fenders are beefier


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

After Rubbing the fender paint, will it rust during winters?
How should it be prevented?


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Yes. Paint it


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

Mantvis said:


> After Rubbing the fender paint, will it rust during winters?
> How should it be prevented?


it will rust if it's rubbed through the paint. Happened to mine 2 seasons ago. It's only surface rust but I can show you a photo tonight if you want. Have to get it repainted this spring.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Mantvis said:


> After Rubbing the fender paint, will it rust during winters?
> How should it be prevented?


Raise your car up.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

DougLoBue said:


> Raise your car up and repaint



x2


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

sway bar end links. Are they both the same p/n for either side? Or are they right side/left side specific.


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## riktt (May 16, 2008)

Looking at front bumpers as I'm in need of one. Any good places/sites (stateside) to get me sorted out ?


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Neb said:


> sway bar end links. Are they both the same p/n for either side? Or are they right side/left side specific.


if you are talking about the drop links, that connect to the strut (top) and swaybar (bottom), then they are side specific.

I have pn: 1J0411315D (LEFT); 1J0411316D (RIGHT), for the 225. 

Cheers


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

TTC2k5 said:


> if you are talking about the drop links, that connect to the strut (top) and swaybar (bottom), then they are side specific.
> 
> I have pn: 1J0411315D (LEFT); 1J0411316D (RIGHT), for the 225.
> 
> Cheers


Thanks, that's what I'm talking about.


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

riktt said:


> Looking at front bumpers as I'm in need of one. Any good places/sites (stateside) to get me sorted out ?


http://www.ttstuff.com/

Not cheap but they have lots.


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## riktt (May 16, 2008)

Neb said:


> http://www.ttstuff.com/
> 
> Not cheap but they have lots.


About the only site that I know of lol 

Something along the lines of a PPI bumper :thumbup: Any good sources here, mainland ?


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Planning to seafoam the car.
Where do i put the fluid in? and how much of it? 

Found it! :laugh: but now i got anothe question!
Thats for the DIY
http://jettajunkie.com/vw-jetta/showthread.php?4105-Official-Seafoam-DIY

Now the question,
If i choose to put some into my fuel tank, do i still have to change my oil?
I gotta change oil in few hundred miles anyways, but i just want to know for future referance :thumbup:


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

How do you clean the foam coming out of your a/c vents? :facepalm:


Also, I'm not sure which would be better, but I'm thinking the K&N would be the better buy. Does anyone have either?
http://www.ttstuff.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=NEU-651087&Category_Code=T1PAAI
http://www.ttstuff.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=KN-570477&Category_Code=T1PAAI


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

AEM Dryflow has a built in velocity stack FYI


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> How do you clean the foam coming out of your a/c vents? :facepalm:


Huuh??  :sly:


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## michealtheworm (Jan 28, 2012)

Would i be able to use this wideband o2 sensor? thank you!

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/Tinted-7-Wideband-Air-Fuel-Gauge.aspx


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Mantvis said:


> Huuh??  :sly:



There are small pieces of black foam that are breaking up from inside my AC vents somewhere and come flying out at me when I turn the AC on. I've been running the AC for a while to get it to spit them all out, and I'm getting less foam now. AC is still cool. Maybe it's a Florida thing..... you know how we Flo-ridas roll


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

mine does the same. The black foam is deteriorating and it's a PITA.


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

See? I knew I wasn't the only one. Also, the little privacy lid thing for the trunk is broken. My dumb mom tried to put something in the trunk that was too big for it, closed it, and din't know she broke it until AFTER and pondered, "how did that happen?".

Moms and sportscars don't mix. :facepalm:

Anyway, anyone know where you can get a replacement lid cover thing? The plastic on it is broken so it can't be reused.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Bad news. They are close to $400 new. But sometimes you can find a used one for a lot less.


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## HolvTT (Feb 22, 2011)

I've searched, but I'm not too good at that. What is the smallest size wheel the 225s can go and clear the stock brakes?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Some 16" fit but not all... not a great answer but it's the best I know!


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

PLAYED TT said:


> Bad news. They are close to $400 new. But sometimes you can find a used one for a lot less.


ARE YOU KIDDING ME?! A little bit of FABRIC and PLASTIC are $400?! :banghead:


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Yup that's what I said


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> ARE YOU KIDDING ME?! A little bit of FABRIC and PLASTIC are $400?! :banghead:


Real quick solution, cheap too: Take piece, throw in garbage. Take back seats, throw in garbage.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

DougLoBue said:


> Real quick solution, cheap too: Take piece, throw in garbage. Take back seats, throw in garbage.


:laugh:


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

HolvTT said:


> I've searched, but I'm not too good at that. What is the smallest size wheel the 225s can go and clear the stock brakes?





DougLoBue said:


> Some 16" fit but not all... not a great answer but it's the best I know!


Way back in 1999-2000, the early TT brochure has 7x16 with 205-55/16s as original fitment. The VW beetle, had 16in, 5 x 100s, so they should fit.

cheers


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## chads (May 27, 2010)

Not TT related, but can someone explain the difference between BBS style 5's and BBS Super RS's?

They look almost the same to me, except for the center caps. 

The Style 5's are 18" also.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Yeah centers are different as well as lips


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

chads said:


> Not TT related, but can someone explain the difference between BBS style 5's and BBS Super RS's?
> 
> They look almost the same to me, except for the center caps.
> 
> The Style 5's are 18" also.


Style 5's come in 17's as well. 18's are very hard to come by.

Offsets are a big thing too. Style 5's have (obviously) low bmw offsets are are hard to make fit properly.


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## chads (May 27, 2010)

Thanks. 

I found some 18's local for 800. Didn't know if they were worth looking into.

Style 5's


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

What am i missing? I know i need to add more details to the rims. And rear end. What else? Its my midterm for Computer Graphics, Ill have to make a scene and maybe add more cars.
I think the front end looks good, but something doesnt seem right hmmm

BTW its a two tone silhouette


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

the easiest way to recreate that is to actually recreate the image from a real life image. When I was contracted to make this shirt that's what I did.


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

but you're missing lines to separate the body panels...


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

If all you're doing is making a vector image doing what Ben said is the easiest way. Also black may not have been the best choice because all the detail lines may make it look awkward.


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

I think the lower grill openings are way out of proportion. Maybe just the white on black, but they look huge.


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## bklnstunt718 (May 30, 2007)

how do you guys play your ipods in your tts.. and where can i get that adapter piece that goes between the two vents


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## KN78 (Feb 2, 2010)

bklnstunt718 said:


> how do you guys play your ipods in your tts.. and where can i get that adapter piece that goes between the two vents


I use a cassette adaptor but I'm thinking about investing in this to use with the stock stereo
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MKI-Quattro-225HP/Interior/Stereo/ES251288/

Oh, and is this the adaptor piece you were talking about?
http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/gadgetts_and_stuff/the_gadgett/

The guy's name is Steve and his company name is modshack, he's a great guy, bought things from him before.


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## oldster (Feb 26, 2012)

*Two questions*

Can I safely put a series 40 tire on a stock 17 inch wheel? What size would I use?

AND

What's the best (read inexpensive) to purchase a used ashtray. Don't smoke but I don't like the gapping space there. 

Thanks in advance!

Chuck


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## WiKKiDTT (Aug 13, 2009)

245/40/17


---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?2bkg53


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## matches (Aug 18, 2005)

I'm asking here because I didn't get a response in the thread I created, but does anybody know if the door latch from the B5 Passat / 986 Boxster works in the TT? It's the same part # / design as far as I can tell, but it's half the price.


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

bklnstunt718 said:


> how do you guys play your ipods in your tts.. and where can i get that adapter piece that goes between the two vents


I have a wireless fm transmitter in mine. Plugs into the bottom of the ipod and works great :beer:


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

bklnstunt718 said:


> how do you guys play your ipods in your tts.. and where can i get that adapter piece that goes between the two vents



I use this adaptor as it lets me use ipod, android, sd card, stick, or anything with a 3.5 plug-hole for output.

http://public.fotki.com/TTQ2K2/tt-interior-mods/connects2-usb-audio/


not a difficult install.

cheers.


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## FatAce (Jan 30, 2012)

> Mantvis
> Planning to seafoam the car.
> Where do i put the fluid in? and how much of it?


1/3 of the bottle in each of the following:
Gas Tank
Crankcase
Brake Booster



> Now the question,
> If i choose to put some into my fuel tank, do i still have to change my oil?
> I gotta change oil in few hundred miles anyways, but i just want to know for future referance


I would reccomend changing the oil after you run it clean (20ish Miles) or you may start to develop lifter tap or something of the same nature. A good synthetic after you seafoam and you'll notice a little gain in efficiency. 

Here is a video of my car when I first purchased it. I don't believe the previous owner (female) knew to run 93 oct in the vehicle. :banghead:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U1oKY7USyDI


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Has anyone made a spoiler for the TT that rises up at 60MPH? I love the look of no spoiler but hate the dangerous handling conditions at 100mph+


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Also, is there any online guide to installing a boost gauge in your AC vent?


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> Has anyone made a spoiler for the TT that rises up at 60MPH? I love the look of no spoiler but hate the dangerous handling conditions at 100mph+


Yeah its on the MKII


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

PLAYED TT said:


> Yeah its on the MKII



Lol I want that on my MKI opcorn:


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> Lol I want that on my MKI opcorn:


Well I dont believe it is possible simply because it weighs too much. The struts for the hatch are barely strong enough as is...


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

I know.. at year 11 I replaced my hatch struts already, but I'm sure you could make it light somehow. I love to dream..... one day my car is gonna travel back in time, too :laugh:


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Maybe a corrado wing, but I doubt the MKII could be made to work. You could always try tho


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> Has anyone made a spoiler for the TT that rises up at 60MPH? I love the look of no spoiler but hate the dangerous handling conditions at 100mph+


Heres the spolier 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ely4JNW4wc


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Wow someone did it:what:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Great idea for a thread! Some questions really do not deserve to have a new thread started :thumbup:


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> Has anyone made a spoiler for the TT that rises up at 60MPH? I love the look of no spoiler but hate the dangerous handling conditions at 100mph+


Yes, in the UK. $$$$.


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

TTC2k5 said:


> Yes, in the UK. $$$$.


HOW MUCH?! I WILL HAVE A KID AND *SELL* HIM! HOW MUCH?! :thumbup:


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> HOW MUCH?! I WILL HAVE A KID AND *SELL* HIM! HOW MUCH?! :thumbup:


Unless your the kid ^^^ craps golden eggs, that probably won't be enough.

The only problem with the current design is that it is integrated into the hatch, so that means shipping a hatch from the UK to the US. I don't believe he sells a separate spoiler mechanism that you can have welded into your hatch after the corresponding section is cut off. Any way, the shipping alone is probably $2-4K, plus a few thousand for the integrated hatch, so total is $$$$.

But, the guy that designed and built it, is a regular on the UK TT forum. www.ttforum.co.uk

His handle is: VSPURS. 

Register there and then you can send him a PM and get much more info.

cheers


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Just not worth it IMO


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

PLAYED TT said:


> Just not worth it IMO


tru dat!


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Damn.. girl didn't get pregnant last night.. we're gonna try again. Hopefully we get twins to bring double the profit :laugh:


That really is too much. I wish it was cheaper. I've had the vision for a while, but my idea was different. I was thinking the spoiler would be hinged on the side closer to the window and the pistons near the Audi emblem would raise the back part of the spoiler. A folded rubber boot would keep everything water-proof and dirt resistant. You'd only need a couple of inches in elevation on the rear section of the spoiler for the needed downforce. I would have also had to employ someone to code the ECU to raise the spoiler at 60mph to the preset height.


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## michealtheworm (Jan 28, 2012)

Can we use a Bosch 4.9 LSU Wideband o2 Sensor in our 1.8T. I have a 2002 AWP


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

IDK id say looks pretty interesting, but too much "wanna be"


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Looks like ass


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Polished my summer wheel lips today, and i was putting on my stock wheels on and:banghead::banghead: my front drivers lug bolt snapped:facepalm:....anyways...I know I need to get that taken care of but...you think it'll be safe to daily drive for a while without 1 lug bolt for a month or so?
What can i do? It possible to remove the bolt? The head snapped, so i can grab it with vise grips 
Or will i need a new wheel hub?


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Just twist it out with vice grips. It shouldn't be hard to get out unless you used an impact wrench to tighten it. If that fails get a bolt extractor set and try that


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Vise grips will not work there is nothin to grab on to.
And idk about the bolt extractor, i have never seen it in my life. So i cant say anything about it.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

PB blaster to loosen the bolt up. Cut a notch in it and get a flat head in there and start spinning.

You can't get to the bolt even with the wheel off?


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

That's why they are vice grips. Clamp onto it tight.


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

DougLoBue said:


> PB blaster to loosen the bolt up. Cut a notch in it and get a flat head in there and start spinning.
> 
> You can't get to the bolt even with the wheel off?


No i cant.
Played Vise Grips are no good if you cant clamp on it
Mines even deeper, i understand that these are studs, but thats how my bolt look like


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Sorry I misunderstood and thought it was sticking out. Get a screw/bolt extractor that should work


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

PLAYED TT said:


> Get a screw/bolt extractor that should work


This ^^^. Some people call them 'Easy Outs'. 

Just be sure not to drill a hole that's too big, as then the extractor will expand the bolt threads just as you are trying to back it out. Also hit it with something like PB Blaster first.


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

*OK, my dumb question*

I bought my amulet red '01 with obvious problem areas in the clear coat, coming off in spots near the front of the hood, front of the roof and behind (one!) rear fender flare. Are TTs known for having clear coat issues, or did the PO have a crappy paint job at some time?


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Charlie_M said:


> I bought my amulet red '01 with obvious problem areas in the clear coat, coming off in spots near the front of the hood, front of the roof and behind (one!) rear fender flare. Are TTs known for having clear coat issues, or did the PO have a crappy paint job at some time?


TTs are not known for paint issues other than the roof rail strips, which show corrosion due to poor factory paint prep.

Sounds very much like crappy re-spray.

cheers.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

What bob said


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

You got to the point where you had everything but the rotor/caliper off, but stopped to take a pic instead of taking those two things off and removing the snapped lug? It could be done in a night, just get a replacement and go for it :thumbup:


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

l88m22vette said:


> You got to the point where you had everything but the rotor/caliper off, but stopped to take a pic instead of taking those two things off and removing the snapped lug? It could be done in a night, just get a replacement and go for it :thumbup:


The picture is not mine, i just googled :thumbup:
Took the caliper off and the brake rotor. I tried turning it, i use a screw and a hammer to turn it. made 2 full turs, and thats where i stopped since it was getting dark and it seemed that the bolt was stuck in there.. Ill try to use a a metal cutter with a disk and make a slice in there so maybe i could just use my screw driver. hmm IDK

Any shops that could remove the bolt for me? Called tire shops nothin, called a few breake shops told me to buy a new hub.. :facepalm:


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Sorry, misunderstood :beer: Can you not get to the lugbolts from behind? Should be a Torx head bolt, or it might be pressed in, can't remember..if it is pressed in, us a C-clamp to press it out shadetree style :thumbup:


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

:thumbup:
Can i unscrew that bolt that is right in the middle of the brake rotor? I mean by saying "can" will there be any fluids or oil coming out? Will i need to replace any kind of washers? or is it just unscrew and then just screw it back in? because i believe the hub is being holded with that screw


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

Yeah it's fine. There's just grease behind it.


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Mantvis said:


> :thumbup:
> Can i unscrew that bolt that is right in the middle of the brake rotor? I mean by saying "can" will there be any fluids or oil coming out? Will i need to replace any kind of washers? or is it just unscrew and then just screw it back in? because i believe the hub is being holded with that screw



Calipers and rotars.. I need info


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> Calipers and rotars.. I need info


RS4 calipers 
RS4 365mm x 34mm discs 
Also you will need at least 19's to clear the brakes
:thumbup:


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Mantvis said:


> RS4 calipers
> RS4 365mm x 34mm discs
> Also you will need at least 19's to clear the brakes
> :thumbup:


Very very nice. Thank you sir :beer:



I'm wanting to get my 12 year old TT a tune. I've got a Forge DV, but does anyone have an old TT and has had about 20psi running through their engine for a while? I'm a little worried about it something failing, but the power..... oh the power is just so tempting :laugh:


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> Very very nice. Thank you sir :beer:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm wanting to get my 12 year old TT a tune. I've got a Forge DV, but does anyone have an old TT and has had about 20psi running through their engine for a while? I'm a little worried about it something failing, but the power..... oh the power is just so tempting :laugh:


Youll be fine :thumbup:
9 year old TT 20psi :thumbup:


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Sweeeeeeeeeet


----------



## chads (May 27, 2010)

Are there any pics of a TT with 18" AMG Monoblocks?

I can't really look right now, on phone and I'm supposed to be working


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

I've got another dummy question... what the hell are wheel spacers for?


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> I've got another dummy question... what the hell are wheel spacers for?


Make the wheels more flush with the edge of the fenders. It's appearance based, though it does add track width as well, which plays into but has minimal affect on handling.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

wheel spacers have multiple purposes. 1) looks, some people like the flush or stanced look with the outer edge of the tires being flush with the outside of the fender well. 2) big brake clearance, if you upgrade to 4 or even 6 piston brakes, the extra width from the calipers most be taken into consideration for the wheels to clear the brakes. 3) wider wheel base, the lower and wider the center of gravity and wheel base is, the more stable the car becomes (in easy to understand terms.. the suspension design has a lot to do with it as well)


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

I cant wait to go home and measure to find out how thick I need them


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

When lowering a car should i be taking out the wheel wells? (like the plastic splash guards)


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

No, think of all the rain, snow, sand, and salt!! It will give a prime opportunity to get caught under the body which in time can lead to rust.. I can tell you haven't taken the passenger rear wheel well out.. The evap and fuel lines run into a canister there, I would never advice anyone to run this exposed.. There is no weight to be losses from it and the protection to be gained from it is worth far more IMO


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> I cant wait to go home and measure to find out how thick I need them


Just or reference, I'm running 16" fat fives with 225's at all four corners. 25mm in the rear looks beastly and I am weighting on tubular controls to put the fronts on but went with 15mm. Again, just a reference :wave:


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

seth_3515 said:


> No, think of all the rain, snow, sand, and salt!! It will give a prime opportunity to get caught under the body which in time can lead to rust.. I can tell you haven't taken the passenger rear wheel well out.. The evap and fuel lines run into a canister there, I would never advice anyone to run this exposed.. There is no weight to be losses from it and the protection to be gained from it is worth far more IMO


Actually, it's the wheel wells that trap a lot of dirt down by the rocker panels.  FYI, my GTI has 239K miles and hasn't had front wheel wells in about 8 years. No rust, no buildup, and no problems. Things get dirty regardless of if you have all the plastic surrounding the engine.


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

Mantvis said:


> When lowering a car should i be taking out the wheel wells? (like the plastic splash guards)


Well you have to remove the rears to lower the car 

There's no need to remove them unless you're going on air. You'll be rubbing them pretty bad (at least the rears)


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

seth_3515 said:


> Just or reference, I'm running 16" fat fives with 225's at all four corners. 25mm in the rear looks beastly and I am weighting on tubular controls to put the fronts on but went with 15mm. Again, just a reference :wave:


16in fat fives??? FFs are 17, right?


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

TTC2k5 said:


> 16in fat fives??? FFs are 17, right?


Yes, FF's are 17's unless you get the euro A8 FF's which are 18's :beer:


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

seth_3515 said:


> Just or reference, I'm running 16" fat fives with 225's at all four corners. 25mm in the rear looks beastly and I am weighting on tubular controls to put the fronts on but went with 15mm. Again, just a reference :wave:


Pictures please


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

20v master said:


> Actually, it's the wheel wells that trap a lot of dirt down by the rocker panels.  FYI, my GTI has 239K miles and hasn't had front wheel wells in about 8 years. No rust, no buildup, and no problems. Things get dirty regardless of if you have all the plastic surrounding the engine.


not talking about the fronts I said rears  also, like I said I (personally) wouldnt advise anyone to take those off..


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> Pictures please


headed to get pics now..


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Neb said:


> Yes, FF's are 17's unless you get the euro A8 FF's which are 18's :beer:


Ill get pics of those too..


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

seth_3515 said:


> not talking about the fronts I said rears  also, like I said I (personally) wouldnt advise anyone to take those off..


The rear without fender liners is really loud with sand & pebbles flying up into the car.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

DougLoBue said:


> The rear without fender liners is really loud with sand & pebbles flying up into the car.


Glad someone else notices these things.. And I was considering the JEGS poly seats on sale right now. I've sat in one and didn't think it was bad at all.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Just checked to be sure.. Yes, they are 16" fat fives  do some research.. Got the pics, but the car isn't on the ground so they will poke more but gotta load them on my computer from my phone. I used my iPhone and had the grid on the photo to try and make it as close to even as possible so you can see how "flush" they are with the fenders


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

seth_3515 said:


> Just checked to be sure.. Yes, they are 16" fat fives  do some research.. Got the pics, but the car isn't on the ground so they will poke more but gotta load them on my computer from my phone. I used my iPhone and had the grid on the photo to try and make it as close to even as possible so you can see how "flush" they are with the fenders


then they be rare indeed.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

It's ok.. USRT didn't believe me til they looked into it further as well


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

seth_3515 said:


> It's ok.. USRT didn't believe me til they looked into further as well


do they look exactly like FFs, or just similar? I've seen wide 5-spoke in 16s on some of the very early TTs but they were not the same as the 17in FFs. Cast, not forged; painted, not polished; center slightly different too.

Still, a nice looking, classic 5 spoke, and sooooo much nicer than the standard 6 spoke on the early TTs.

cheers.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Very similar, not polished. It is the early 5 spoke before the polished 17" I'll have pics up I'm headed home and cant load them to phtobucket from my phone. I'll be posing them within the hour though.


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

seth_3515 said:


> Ill get pics of those too..


18's.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Neb said:


> 18's.


To appease everyone I will not call them fat fives.. They are the early model five spoke that are very similar to the fat gives but have a slightly narrower spoke and are cast not forged, painted not polished and have a different center.. Or can I say gen 1 fat fives?


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

seth_3515 said:


> To appease everyone I will not call them fat fives.. They are the early model five spoke that are very similar to the fat gives but have a slightly narrower spoke and are cast not forged, painted not polished and have a different center.. Or can I say gen 1 fat fives?


G1FF has a nice ring to it or ever UrFF.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

how bout early FF reps? :laugh: uploading photos now


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

16's


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

those aren't FF's. Or this is the first I've heard them called that. They're more like 16sthatshouldbereplacedbecausethey'retoosmallforthiscaranddon'tlookthatgreat.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

DougLoBue said:


> The rear without fender liners is really loud with sand & pebbles flying up into the car.


What baffles me is that you can hear anything besides your exhaust :laugh: !

Oh and I also think it's perfectly fine to run without the heavy fender liners (I dropped a substantial amount of weight removing all kind of non-functional plastic covers on this car. It's not like crap is not trapped behind it anyway and the chassis-side of the arch is all coated. Easy access to many components is also plus. My 2 cents!


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Neb said:


> those aren't FF's. Or this is the first I've heard them called that. They're more like 16sthatshouldbereplacedbecausethey'retoosmallforthiscaranddon'tlookthatgreat.


Right.. because I dont jump on the RS bandwagon


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Neb said:


> those aren't FF's. Or this is the first I've heard them called that. They're more like 16sthatshouldbereplacedbecausethey'retoosmallforthiscaranddon'tlookthatgreat.


Aren't these called *flat* 5 in the vw world? Heavier and lacking some of the concave that makes the fat 5 so appealing!


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> What baffles me is that you can hear anything besides your exhaust :laugh: !


LOL yepp

need vibrant racing ultra quiet resonator(s) ASAP!



Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Aren't these called *flat* 5 in the vw world? Heavier and lacking some of the concave that makes the fat 5 so appealing!



Pretty sure they came on an Audi Sedan in 16" as the flat 5's and they were heavier.


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

I've never seen those before. They look like reps. But either way they aren't fat fives nor flat fives


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Came on the car when I bought it five years ago.. One owner that was an older woman. I dont know or care personally.. I love them


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

That's all that matters then


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Whats up with all the newbies making a newbie threads, and spaming our front page... we have a STUPID question thread :laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

That's why I barely post on here anymore


----------



## Tom333 (Nov 2, 2010)

Hi,

Will the convertible seat belt fit the coupe?

Thanks!


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

PLAYED TT said:


> That's why I barely post on here anymore


9K posts in less than a year and a half. Yeah, you rarely post. :laugh:


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

20v master said:


> 9K posts in less than a year and a half. Yeah, you rarely post. :laugh:


Haha being bored between classes has its advantages. Really the only thread I post in daily anymore is the regional gtg threads


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

PLAYED TT said:


> Haha being bored between classes has its advantages. Really the only thread I post in daily anymore is the regional gtg threads


And students are up before 6AM why?


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Ha I was up at 7. I have 8am's every day


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

PLAYED TT said:


> Ha I was up at 7. I have 8am's every day


Leaves plenty of time for car modding and beer in the afternoon! I miss college. :screwy:


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

But my car is 2 1/2 hours away and only gets love on the weekends. The beer makes up for it tho


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

blah blah blah post a pic of a car or something


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

Tom333 said:


> Hi,
> 
> Will the convertible seat belt fit the coupe?
> 
> Thanks!


AFAIK they'll fit.


----------



## Jayizdaman (Apr 18, 2005)

Hey Played, do you like the INA coilpack adaptors/2.0T coilpacks? I have a 2000 TT so I have the bolt down coilpacks, so I'm thinking I may go with Integrated Engineerings Kit 80 dollars JUST for the adapters though is a little tough to swallow but if the coils are cheaper in the long run and at least somewhat better I guess I could do it.


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Neb said:


> blah blah blah post a pic of a car or something


Hey don't tempt me:laugh:


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Jayizdaman said:


> Hey Played, do you like the INA coilpack adaptors/2.0T coilpacks? I have a 2000 TT so I have the bolt down coilpacks, so I'm thinking I may go with Integrated Engineerings Kit 80 dollars JUST for the adapters though is a little tough to swallow but if the coils are cheaper in the long run and at least somewhat better I guess I could do it.


I believe you asked this in my thread but I'll answer it here too. The fitment is very good and I'm happy with the finish. As far as how they run I cannot say because the motor isnt back together yet


----------



## Currancchs (Feb 24, 2011)

PLAYED TT said:


> Hey don't tempt me:laugh:


Done:


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

That reminds me that I need to go get my motorcycle license:snowcool:


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

20v master said:


> 9K posts in less than a year and a half. Yeah, you rarely post. :laugh:


I take back my previous statement. I just posted a **** ton:laugh:


----------



## Dmurolo (Feb 12, 2012)

what is the part behind the brake and rotor on the front left wheel? is that the cv boot? i have grease all over everything in the left front, there is a cut in what i think is the cv boot?


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Dmurolo said:


> what is the part behind the brake and rotor on the front left wheel? is that the cv boot? i have grease all over everything in the left front, there is a cut in what i think is the cv boot?


yup, sounds like the CV boot.. got any pics for 100% accuracy before ordering parts?


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Definitely a bad CV cover, replace it ASAFP because otherwise no grease = dead universal joint, a MUCH bigger/more expensive pain


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

l88m22vette said:


> Definitely a bad CV cover, replace it ASAFP because otherwise no grease = dead universal joint, a MUCH bigger/more expensive pain


This is probably bad forum advice because discretion is involved, but as long as the outer and inner boot aren't separated, then not much dirt/sand/debris will get in. That's the most important part in determining if CV's boots and/or joints are replace ASAFP or when you get around to it.


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Mines been missing for half a year and 1000 miles. She's still good and kicking:laugh:


----------



## Dmurolo (Feb 12, 2012)

Changing my drive axle this sunday any info or diy on it or what tools am i gonna def need?


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

Dmurolo said:


> what is the part behind the brake and rotor on the front left wheel? is that the cv boot? i have grease all over everything in the left front, there is a cut in what i think is the cv boot?


sounds like the outer boot. I would replace it when you get a chance. I had one go and the joint was clicking really bad. I was lucky to get the boot replaced with no damage..


----------



## michealtheworm (Jan 28, 2012)

What size light bulbs are in our 2002 180Q's? Every where said H7's but i orderd a kit and they dont fit? The low beams are H1 and the highs and suppose to be H7's...... Any help please...


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

When I shift into 5th gear, and now sometimes 4th, after a cold start, there is a grinding noise even though I have the clutch pushed all the way in. Should I replace my slave master or is it something else?


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

when was the last time you changed your fluid?


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

michealtheworm said:


> What size light bulbs are in our 2002 180Q's? Every where said H7's but i orderd a kit and they dont fit? The low beams are H1 and the highs and suppose to be H7's...... Any help please...


 I thought the xenon was a D2S bulb?


----------



## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

Yep they are.


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

I changed my fluid recently because my mechanic asked me if I had at 70k. I wasn't the owner at 70k so I said no. It was changed, but the grinding sound stil happens.


----------



## WiKKiDTT (Aug 13, 2009)

Change master cylinder which is on the clutch pedal assembly. Make sure you either have a vacuum bleeder or a pressure bleeder. The seals tend to swell not allowing fluid to pass the orifice which is what the problem could be. 


---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?cthxji


----------



## chads (May 27, 2010)

I am going to be taking out my upper and lower controls and installing the Kmac kit. 

How likely is it that I will need to replace the outer control arm bushings? 

And how do I go about replacing the bushings? 

Number 4 in this diagram


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

chads said:


> I am going to be taking out my upper and lower controls and installing the Kmac kit.
> 
> How likely is it that I will need to replace the outer control arm bushings?
> 
> ...


 Very unlikely! That's the trailing arm BTW. You would know if that bushing was bad because you would have vibration at speed. To replace, you'd have to drop the trailing arm and press in and out.


----------



## chads (May 27, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Very unlikely! That's the trailing arm BTW. You would know if that bushing was bad because you would have vibration at speed. To replace, you'd have to drop the trailing arm and press in and out.


 
Thank you very much! That just saved me $60.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

chads said:


> Thank you very much! That just saved me $60.


 Just realized that you have a 2000 which means that you have the early style rose joints :thumbup:. 
That early design was replaced after a recall in Europe IIRC and all the 03-up cars have a conventional bushing instead. It would be a good idea to inspect them for cracks in the covering booths and free motion, you could grease them too for "peace of mind" for another 35k. :beer:


----------



## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

About to buy Coils to check on misfires. 
Question is: 

which brand would you go for? 
Options are: BERU / KARLYN / OEM 

Price is similar so I don;t care. 
Just making sure I get the right ones. 

Will also replace spark plugs, but that is an entirely different stupid question!


----------



## Tempes_TT (Oct 24, 2010)

So, I dont remember there being such a large gap, or a gap at all at the top of my strut tower. Im taking this as my indication that my upper strut mount bushing needs replacing? :facepalm: 

My car has been feeling floaty/boat like lately. Not sure if this is why or maybe has something to do with it. My car is falling apart!  lol 

*Passenger side* 










*Driver side*


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Strut mounts!

OEM from ECS will be like $30 with bearings

Upgraded from 034 will be around $80 IIRC

Or you can go camber plates like the SPC units which is $160 for the pair from summit racing.


----------



## Tempes_TT (Oct 24, 2010)

DougLoBue said:


> Strut mounts!
> 
> OEM from ECS will be like $30 with bearings
> 
> ...


 Thanks homie! 

Could you maybe show me a link to the ones from 034? I cant seem to find it...


----------



## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

Converted2VW said:


> About to buy Coils to check on misfires.
> Question is:
> 
> *which brand would you go for?*Options are: BERU / KARLYN / OEM
> ...


 Any stupid answers?:thumbup:


----------



## chads (May 27, 2010)

^^^Sorry I don't know the answer to that, but I have a stupid question.  

Where would one find the ratchet thingy mobober that is used to take off the upper strut nut?


----------



## chads (May 27, 2010)

Tempes_TT said:


> So, I dont remember there being such a large gap, or a gap at all at the top of my strut tower. Im taking this as my indication that my upper strut mount bushing needs replacing? :facepalm:
> 
> My car has been feeling floaty/boat like lately. Not sure if this is why or maybe has something to do with it. My car is falling apart!  lol


 Is it more low in the front? :laugh:


----------



## Shawninho (Nov 16, 2011)

I'll be bringing my TT down to APTuning in Lebanon, PA this weekend for a timing belt service. I'm going to get APR tuned while they have the car, and I'm on the fence about the programs. I have a 180Q. Any thoughts on the programs? Don't want to get too crazy but I'm debating the 93. I currently have the modshack VTDA and Milltek resonated catback. Is 93 even worth it without a bigger DP/highflow cat and a new DV?


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

I can buy these tomorrow when I get my car tuned and have them installed at no extra charge. Is the $200 worth it? I'll be a 180q with blue haldex and 19lb rims (which help) using a Unitronics Stage 1+ tune for 225hp and 260torq. 
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MKI-Quattro-180HP/Engine/Pulleys/ES420/ 

Get the pulley set tomorrow or no?


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Shawninho said:


> I'll be bringing my TT down to APTuning in Lebanon, PA this weekend for a timing belt service. I'm going to get APR tuned while they have the car, and I'm on the fence about the programs. I have a 180Q. Any thoughts on the programs? Don't want to get too crazy but I'm debating the 93. I currently have the modshack VTDA and Milltek resonated catback. Is 93 even worth it without a bigger DP/highflow cat and a new DV?


 Not a fan of AP. Go to CBtuning in new tripoli. Tell Chris I sent you and he will hook you up. Plus he does unitronics which is better then APR:thumbup:


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> I can buy these tomorrow when I get my car tuned and have them installed at no extra charge. Is the $200 worth it? I'll be a 180q with blue haldex and 19lb rims (which help) using a Unitronics Stage 1+ tune for 225hp and 260torq.
> http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MKI-Quattro-180HP/Engine/Pulleys/ES420/
> 
> Get the pulley set tomorrow or no?


 I didn't see the point personally.. but maybe others can chime in.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> I can buy these tomorrow when I get my car tuned and have them installed at no extra charge. Is the $200 worth it? I'll be a 180q with blue haldex and 19lb rims (which help) using a Unitronics Stage 1+ tune for 225hp and 260torq.
> http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MKI-Quattro-180HP/Engine/Pulleys/ES420/
> 
> Get the pulley set tomorrow or no?


 Not worth the money. 





chads said:


> Where would one find the ratchet thingy mobober that is used to take off the upper strut nut?


 I use a spark plug socket with a box wrench to hold the hex end and a long allen through the socket. No special tools required.


----------



## Shawninho (Nov 16, 2011)

PLAYED TT said:


> Not a fan of AP. Go to CBtuning in new tripoli. Tell Chris I sent you and he will hook you up. Plus he does unitronics which is better then APR:thumbup:


 Why the hate? Haven't dealt with them before to be honest, but going back and forth with emails seemed pretty headache free with them. Anything I should know about?


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Shawninho said:


> Why the hate? Haven't dealt with them before to be honest, but going back and forth with emails seemed pretty headache free with them. Anything I should know about?


 I don't want to say anything out here but pm me and I'll explain.


----------



## Currancchs (Feb 24, 2011)

20v master said:


> Not worth the money.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 I've done that job a couple time using the same method, but I always found it hard to get a decent torque on it because I was holding the allen from its short end with a vice grip style plier. My dad picked up a set of cheap sockets that are gripped from the outside that are low profile enough to allow gripping the allen from the long end, or use an allen socket. 

Harbor Freight sells them, they're only 28 bucks for a whole set, and they come in handy quite frequently (Don't have to worry about length of studs, and they're easier to fit into tight areas). 

http://www.harborfreight.com/21-piece-saemetric-go-thru-socket-set-67974.html


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

FMIC or SMIC on a 180q? When are they suggested/needed?


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> FMIC or SMIC on a 180q? When are they suggested/needed?


 Suggested if you've been chipped. Otherwise, just wasted money that could be used elsewhere...like for a chip. 

cheers


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

TTC2k5 said:


> Suggested if you've been chipped. Otherwise, just wasted money that could be used elsewhere...like for a chip.
> 
> cheers


 
But which is better on a 180q? From what I understand, a SMIC would be less efficient than a FMIC but it would keep the car looking stock. I'm not sure on the difference in price, either.


----------



## Tempes_TT (Oct 24, 2010)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> But which is better on a 180q? *From what I understand, a SMIC would be less efficient than a FMIC* but it would keep the car looking stock..


 Wrong. A wise man once told me and I Quote 

_"I know a lot of you think that FMICs are the way to go, but you have to remember that we have a oil/water heat exchanger. On our cars, the cooling system has the burdain of also removing heat from the oil. It works but it's not that efficient when you start upgrading stuff and push the engine past OEM loads. Having a FMIC blocking our struggling radiator will almost guarranty very hot water and oil temperature whenever the car is pushed. "_ 

:thumbup:


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Tempes_TT said:


> Wrong. A wise man once told me and I Quote
> 
> _"I know a lot of you think that FMICs are the way to go, but you have to remember that we have a oil/water heat exchanger. On our cars, the cooling system has the burdain of also removing heat from the oil. It works but it's not that efficient when you start upgrading stuff and push the engine past OEM loads. Having a FMIC blocking our struggling radiator will almost guarranty very hot water and oil temperature whenever the car is pushed. "_
> 
> :thumbup:


 Sounds like you listen to wise people!


----------



## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

Currancchs said:


> I've done that job a couple time using the same method, but I always found it hard to get a decent torque on it because I was holding the allen from its short end with a vice grip style plier. My dad picked up a set of cheap sockets that are gripped from the outside that are low profile enough to allow gripping the allen from the long end, or use an allen socket.
> 
> Harbor Freight sells them, they're only 28 bucks for a whole set, and they come in handy quite frequently (Don't have to worry about length of studs, and they're easier to fit into tight areas).


 But these are not big enough to do strut nuts; you need 21 or 22 mm. I've used the spark plug socket method on my struts, once, but never again. Get a proper tool at metalnerds.com or germanautoparts.com; I think it's the same tool both places. 

Oh, and for turning an allen wrench from the short end, slip a box-end wrench over the short end and use it as a lever. Avoid it if you can, but when you need it, it works great.


----------



## chads (May 27, 2010)

Thanks for the tips on the struts. I think I'm going to either take the helper spring out or get that short polo strut mount if I can find more information about it. I just need 1/2"or so lower in the front.


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Tempes_TT said:


> Wrong. A wise man once told me and I Quote
> 
> _"I know a lot of you think that FMICs are the way to go, but you have to remember that we have a oil/water heat exchanger. On our cars, the cooling system has the burdain of also removing heat from the oil. It works but it's not that efficient when you start upgrading stuff and push the engine past OEM loads. Having a FMIC blocking our struggling radiator will almost guarranty very hot water and oil temperature whenever the car is pushed. "_
> 
> :thumbup:


 

Ah ha! I was just thinking that a SMIC sees less cool air than a FMIC would, but this ^ change everything. Any idea if I should just upgrade my current SMIC or add a second in addition to the stock SMIC? I only have an ECU flash, but Florida is hot.


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

chads said:


> Thanks for the tips on the struts. I think I'm going to either take the helper spring out or get that short polo strut mount if I can find more information about it. I just need 1/2"or so lower in the front.


 I need the polo mounts too..


----------



## chads (May 27, 2010)

Is this the part number for that mount? 

6N0 412 331 AS

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=170747515513&cmd=VIDESC&index=4&nav=SEARCH&nid=46798319033


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Currancchs said:


> I've done that job a couple time using the same method, but I always found it hard to get a decent torque on it because I was holding the allen from its short end with a vice grip style plier.


 This is my solution.


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Tempes_TT said:


> Wrong. A wise man once told me and I Quote
> 
> _"I know a lot of you think that FMICs are the way to go, but you have to remember that we have a oil/water heat exchanger. On our cars, the cooling system has the burdain of also removing heat from the oil. It works but it's not that efficient when you start upgrading stuff and push the engine past OEM loads. Having a FMIC blocking our struggling radiator will almost guarranty very hot water and oil temperature whenever the car is pushed. "_
> 
> :thumbup:


 In theory, your wise man is correct. But in practice, not so much. The TT's cooling system is more that adequate to handle the air flow loss associated with a FMIC. In nearly 10 years of TT ownership, I've never seen or read about even one cooling/heating complaint problem after a FMIC had been installed. Don't get me wrong, the TT can have heating issues, but they are caused by either a faulty thermostat, faulty water pump or both. Not FMIC related. 

Search the TT forums: Audiworld, quattroworld, TTF, audizine, audiforums, and this forum. If there was a FMIC-heating issue, the forums would be populated with complaints....and they're not.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

TTC2k5 said:


> In theory, your wise man is correct. But in practice, not so much. The TT's cooling system is more that adequate to handle the air flow loss associated with a FMIC. In nearly 10 years of TT ownership, I've never seen or read about even one cooling/heating complaint problem after a FMIC had been installed. Don't get me wrong, the TT can have heating issues, but they are caused by either a faulty thermostat, faulty water pump or both. Not FMIC related.
> 
> Search the TT forums: Audiworld, quattroworld, TTF, audizine, audiforums, and this forum. If there was a FMIC-heating issue, the forums would be populated with complaints....and they're not.


 From people that actually road race, there are. They sprung up years ago before I owned a TT. There is no airflow loss, it's just hotter air after going over the IC core.


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

20v master said:


> From people that actually road race, there are. They sprung up years ago before I owned a TT. There is no airflow loss, it's just hotter air after going over the IC core.


 Guess I missed the part about "road-race" application in the OP's thread and Wise Man's quote. 

cheers


----------



## Dmurolo (Feb 12, 2012)

Whats the difference between a complet upper strut mount kit and one with Spring perches? Basically what are spring perches and how do they work?


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

TTC2k5 said:


> Guess I missed the part about "road-race" application in the OP's thread and Wise Man's quote.
> 
> cheers





TTC2k5 said:


> In nearly 10 years of TT ownership, I've never seen or read about even one cooling/heating complaint problem after a FMIC had been installed.


 You claimed there were none, not that there were none amongst people that drive aggressively for more than seconds at a time. Absolutes are a well waiting for you to fall down. 

I guess you missed every single thread that has been posted over 10 years. AHEM.


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

20v master said:


> You claimed there were none, not that there were none amongst people that drive aggressively for more than seconds at a time. Absolutes are a well waiting for you to fall down.
> 
> I guess you missed every single thread that has been posted over 10 years. AHEM.


 I claimed that 'I' had never seen one. That is an absolute that is true.  

Also, like I said in rebuttal, the original discussion was street use, not track use. I stand by my original point. Track use changes eveything...not just cooling, but braking, tire wear, etc.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

TTC2k5 said:


> I claimed that 'I' had never seen one. That is an absolute that is true.
> 
> Also, like I said in rebuttal, the original discussion was street use, not track use. I stand by my original point. Track use changes eveything...not just cooling, but braking, tire wear, etc.


 It may be true, but it's a meaningless absolute. And that's right Captain Obvious, the difference is you won't warp your head from excessive tire wear or boiling brake fluid, things that happen on all cars when driven aggressively, but hotlapping in a Mk4 1.8T with a FMIC isn't the same thing as TT's, which we are discussing. You made your statement with the premise that cooling problems don't exist on TT's with FMIC's because you've never seen a thread about it. You've also been proved wrong, regardless of the use at the time of the problem. I'm not going to continue any more because you've done nothing but proven your limited knowledge on the subject and your desire to be right.


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

20v master said:


> ...Captain Obvious... I'm not going to continue any more....


 
Funny. 

cheers.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Guys, there is no need to argue a known fact! Once you start to push a TT ( regardless of being in the street or the road course ) the coolant system that also cool the oil becomes overwhelmed. Even without a FMIC blocking airflow to the radiator, a couple of minutes of "hard driving" is all that's needed to flirt with the limit of what acceptable for oil and coolant temperatures. Add a FMIC to the mix and you are in the danger zone ( personally I would rather deal with heated IAT than hot oil and coolant temperatures ). 

TTC2K5 simply made a statement based on what he knew or have read in various forums over the years and that's fine. In practice, for those who actually tested the limit, the outcome is different. Anyone with decent searching capability could just use that to make their own conclusions or actually go out and find out for themselves (the threads documenting heat problems after a FMIC imstall are still floating around) ! 

Let's move on  !


----------



## Tempes_TT (Oct 24, 2010)

New question! Why is my TT a 180q and not an Alms edition??


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Tempes_TT said:


> New question! Why is my TT a 180q and not an Alms edition??


 for the same reason it's not an R8: it is, what it is, a 180q.


----------



## nilreb (Mar 17, 2012)

Anyone know the Japanese brand TT radiator? 

...read somewhere here or from some other forum that it's good practice to upgrade the radiator before installing FMIC.


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

You must have missed the convo at the top of the page:laugh:


----------



## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

I'm kinda pissed because I haven't read a stupid question or an answer for that matter


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

nilreb said:


> Anyone know the Japanese brand TT radiator?
> 
> ...read somewhere here or from some other forum that it's good practice to upgrade the radiator before installing FMIC.


 Mishimoto is the name? BTW it does not fit properly in their TT version unless they revised it ( the large square tanks don't play nice with the TT's real estate without modifications).


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Converted2VW said:


> I'm kinda pissed because I haven't read a stupid question or an answer for that matter


What does TT stand for?




What is the bolt pattern?





What is the least rare TT color?





What is my name?






How much wood could a wood chuck chuck if a wood chuck could chuck wood in a TT?


----------



## Tempes_TT (Oct 24, 2010)

Converted2VW said:


> I'm kinda pissed because I haven't read a stupid question or an answer for that matter





PLAYED TT said:


> What does TT stand for?
> 
> *Twin Tubo. Duh..*
> 
> ...


:heart::wave:


----------



## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

Thanks you! I missed that!


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Hahaha that zig zag comment was great:laugh:


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

I actually had a kid in a grocery store parking lot tell me "Nice twin turbo" before. I explained that' not what TT stood for and he was like "oh.." :laugh:


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Haha amateurs


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

PLAYED TT said:


> Haha amateurs


You mean connoisseurs! :laugh:


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

PLAYED TT said:


> Haha amateurs


You mean connoisseur! :laugh:


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

:laugh:


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

Can someone tell me what fuse it is to disable the haldex? I think the new wheel setup is making the quattro act up.


----------



## Ghostalker (Mar 23, 2009)

Anyone know offhand if BBS RKs in 17x7 with an offset of 48 (omg so high) will fit over the 225 brakes? Would hate to figure this out after i buy them hah.


----------



## 20psi now (Feb 26, 2009)

Anyone know how to change the oil in the TT :banghead:......


This thread is going no where but it seems that every one is posting stupid stuff so...... opcorn:


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

20psi now said:


> Anyone know how to change the oil in the TT :banghead:......
> 
> 
> This thread is going no where but it seems that every one is posting stupid stuff so...... opcorn:



Are you KIDDING?! Jack your car up, take out the bolt in the bottom of your oil pan (it's a bolt on what loots like the bottom of the engine and the bolt is on an angle facing the back of the car).

Make sure you have your oil pan under the bolt before you take it off. Dont drop the bolt in the oil pan or you have to get it out. Let it drain until there is just a slow drip of oil coming out, then reach up in the front of your car for your oil filter. If you dont know what it looks like, go buy one so you know. It'll be tilted towards the front of your car and there are some pipes in the way. Put the oil pan under it when you're unscrewing it and weasel it through the pipes. Install your new filter while applying some old oil to the rubber ring around the new filter's fitting, put the bolt back in the bottom of your oil pan, fill your car with about 4.5 bottles of oil and you're done. Check the dipstick just to be sure you're at the right range.


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Does ANYONE have info and picture on how they installed their boost gauge into their AC vent? I've removed my vent and put my gauge in it, but I need more help:

1. Need the closest wires to attach my gauge to (I have the Prosport Amber)
2. Need to know how to get my boost tubing into the engine bay
3. Need to know where I should cut and attach my T connection to run boost off to the gauge


I've got several pictures of what I've done already. I hadn't found an DIY guide to this, so I'm putting one together for everyone else after me so I could use all of the help I could get


----------



## Tom333 (Nov 2, 2010)

This is one stupid question for sure...

Went to a local car shop to have a change oil. I actually left the car for a few days because I got the car used and still getting some parts..
Anyway, I got all the materials and ask the shop to do a simple oil change (engine, haldex, trans)
Got the car back from yesterday and found this...










I really don't want to jump to conclusion but is that actually the same filter? I mean it might be printed at the back of the second pic...

I honestly think its totally different.. But I could some help.
TIA!


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

It COULD be the same one, but you need to wipe that filter that's in there and see if there is DIRT on it or just some oily residue. If it's old dirt, they didn't change the filter. Stick your hand in there and touch it


----------



## 20psi now (Feb 26, 2009)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> Are you KIDDING?! Jack your car up, take out the bolt in the bottom of your oil pan (it's a bolt on what loots like the bottom of the engine and the bolt is on an angle facing the back of the car).
> 
> Make sure you have your oil pan under the bolt before you take it off. Dont drop the bolt in the oil pan or you have to get it out. Let it drain until there is just a slow drip of oil coming out, then reach up in the front of your car for your oil filter. If you dont know what it looks like, go buy one so you know. It'll be tilted towards the front of your car and there are some pipes in the way. Put the oil pan under it when you're unscrewing it and weasel it through the pipes. Install your new filter while applying some old oil to the rubber ring around the new filter's fitting, put the bolt back in the bottom of your oil pan, fill your car with about 4.5 bottles of oil and you're done. Check the dipstick just to be sure you're at the right range.


Ok this was a joke, I know how to change the oiil in the TT... Like I stated before this thread is going no where! Read through the past 4 pages and tell me what real question's there are? Most of then are jokes and BS people just talking! May as well rename the thread to BS common area to talk.


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

20psi now said:


> Ok this was a joke, I know how to change the oiil in the TT... Like I stated before this thread is going no where! Read through the past 4 pages and tell me what real question's there are? Most of then are jokes and BS people just talking! May as well rename the thread to BS common area to talk.



Yeah well help me with my stupid question. I dont know where to cut to split my boost line to add my gauge in. I also cant seem to get the dash under the steering wheel off. I got the torq screws, but I cant find the damn clips and I dont want to break them


----------



## 20psi now (Feb 26, 2009)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> Yeah well help me with my stupid question. I dont know where to cut to split my boost line to add my gauge in. I also cant seem to get the dash under the steering wheel off. I got the torq screws, but I cant find the damn clips and I dont want to break them


You need to use the fuel pressure vac/boost line to tap the gauge in to, the light is just a gound and the power is like block 75 or something like that. As for the dash you got torq in the side pannal that you need to get and then the two on he bottom. Just give it a nice tug stight out and the panal shound pop off. What vent you useing? Door vent is EZ and just run it stirght down, center vent your gonna have to fish the line over to the steering wheel its not fun but doable. I have to vent taken away left center and door vent.


Edit: google helps you out to.. ---->http://public.fotki.com/blackfnTTruck/defi_boost_gauge_install/


----------



## Tom333 (Nov 2, 2010)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> It COULD be the same one, but you need to wipe that filter that's in there and see if there is DIRT on it or just some oily residue. If it's old dirt, they didn't change the filter. Stick your hand in there and touch it


I found the same marking googling.. The filter is an aftermarket from UK doesn't even have a brand name. I'm a little disappointed, been going to that shop for almost 3yrs and then this...
Ooh well time to go to a different shop.

Pls excuse my pic, I'm using my cell not my laptop


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

did you specifically ask for an OEM filter though?


----------



## Tom333 (Nov 2, 2010)

Neb said:


> did you specifically ask for an OEM filter though?


I gave him the filter (OEM) along with all the other parts and fluids.


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

ouch. Well you could just go back to the shop and ask why they didn't change it.


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Thats what I would do


----------



## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

What are the bulbs for the running lights? And where can i get them besides the dealer?

WOOT FOR STUPID QUESTION PAGE 8....


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

H7W I believe. I've heard they're half the price at the mercedes dealership and the same bulb.


----------



## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

i'm talking about the bulbs for the yellow running light


----------



## chads (May 27, 2010)

What kind of lube do I use with a kmac kit?


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

yeah so am I. Mercedes vehicles (some of them) use the same one. Instead of paying $17 or whatever at the dealership they're $7ish


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

chads said:


> What kind of lube do I use with a kmac kit?


for what? to put them in?


----------



## chads (May 27, 2010)

Yes. I thought you had to put some kind of lube on the center metal piece.


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

I didn't think it was specific to the bushing though. Can't you just use auto grease?


----------



## chads (May 27, 2010)

Hellifiknow  I dont know sh*t about cars lol. I just follow direction from the bentley.


----------



## AlaskaTT (Oct 19, 2011)

OK, stupid question here. 

I have been reading on coil overs and bags and will want to go ahead with a project this summer. At what point does one need to look at adjustable control arms, only when smashed, or anytime you are lowering the car at all from stock?


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

When you get about 40mm and lower from stock :beer:


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

I want to get more HP out of my car and my friend with an Accord says I can remove my air filter to gain 15hp. Is this true??:laugh:


----------



## AlaskaTT (Oct 19, 2011)

Neb said:


> When you get about 40mm and lower from stock :beer:


Thanks! So I guess it goes like, lower it 40mm or so, then the desire to go lower hits about 5 minutes later! :laugh:




Chuckmeister87 said:


> I want to get more HP out of my car and my friend with an Accord says I can remove my air filter to gain 15hp. Is this true??


Heck yea! At least 15HP! If you really want some HP though, do this...



EDIT: For silly quote goof :facepalm:


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

I have Uni Stage 1+ and the installer suggested I get a cone intake to let the turbo breathe easier. Unitronics doesn't have that as a recommendation or a req for the tune. Is he just trying to start me on the never-ending quest for power?

"You know, now that you have more airflow into your car you should consider a 3" downpipe..."


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Will you eventually want a bigger turbo? The k03s breathes fine through the stock airbox, a cone filter won't hurt but it will be louder. Bolt-ons almost always help, but if you're planning something big down the line skip them and save the money. If you're keeping it basically stock, have some fun. Bolt-ons are always nice, if for nothing else because they are a quick and easy weekend project. Don't expect tons of power though...



Neb said:


> H7W I believe. I've heard they're half the price at the mercedes dealership and the same bulb.


H6W, although you might need a Benz part #. My Audi deals charges over $20 per bulb, Mercedes charges like $7 :laugh:


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

I'm going to keep it mostly stock, yeah. Keeping the k03 unless it eats **** and dies. That's what I thought, thanks


----------



## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

l88m22vette said:


> h6w, although you might need a benz part #. My audi deals charges over $20 per bulb, mercedes charges like $7 :laugh:


just found some on fleebay for 2.50 a pair. There led ones, kinda wondering on the light out put of them.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

You might have a problem since LEDs have different power requirements, just something to check


----------



## shayan_tingy (Sep 6, 2010)

*here's mine...*

soo i been shopping for some Diverter valves and i cant get my mind set on one.. i know alot of you guys hav experience with diff valves.. so if i could get a lil help it would be great..:wave:opcorn:


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Audiguy84 said:


> just found some on fleebay for 2.50 a pair. There led ones, kinda wondering on the light out put of them.


I bought LED's from 42DD and they don't light up


----------



## chads (May 27, 2010)

Have an electrical problem, I think. 

Driving at night, lights on, I go to turn on my blinker and the headlights turn off briefly, radio dies, and my tach and speedo dials drop to zero. This all only happens for a second then it is back to normal. Same thing happens when I press my brakes and brake lights come on, but only happens with headlights on. 

I'm thinking comfort control module because my windows have been acting up also. They roll up and down when I'm not even in the car. 

I guess it could be a short somewhere also. 

Any ideas?


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

How do you get the under part of the dash from the driver's side out? I can't find the 3 clips and I dont want to break them.


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Unscrew everything and pull straight out


----------



## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

played tt said:


> i bought led's from 42dd and they don't light up


did you get the bax9 ones??


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Audiguy84 said:


> did you get the bax9 ones??


I would have to check but I remember they fit and the little nubs were the same as the oem ones


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

some of the 42DD ones don't work though (but that should be listed on their site)


----------



## Currancchs (Feb 24, 2011)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> How do you get the under part of the dash from the driver's side out? I can't find the 3 clips and I dont want to break them.


Two torx screws underneath, and one behind the fuse panel cover. The two clips are near the top of the assembly, one on each side of the wheel, just unscrew the three torx screws and pull straight out, as previously mentioned. Just be careful with the left side, as the third torx screw goes through a plastic extension that you don't want to twist excessively.


----------



## Currancchs (Feb 24, 2011)

shayan_tingy said:


> soo i been shopping for some Diverter valves and i cant get my mind set on one.. i know alot of you guys hav experience with diff valves.. so if i could get a lil help it would be great..:wave:opcorn:


A while back Max did some testing of all of the various DV's (including his own custom version), I would suggest checking that out, some great discussion:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-Diverter-Valves&highlight=mad+max+dv+testing


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Where do I add my T-joint to get boost to run to my boost gauge?


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Neb said:


> some of the 42DD ones don't work though (but that should be listed on their site)


Yeah it was a 50/50 shot. But I knew that when I got them. They're led plate bulbs have lasted me a few years now and only one went bad.


----------



## Currancchs (Feb 24, 2011)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> Where do I add my T-joint to get boost to run to my boost gauge?


Off of the fuel pressure regulator line. Should be on the driver's side, above and a bit behind the throttle body.


----------



## 20psi now (Feb 26, 2009)

20psi now said:


> You need to use the fuel pressure vac/boost line to tap the gauge in to, the light is just a gound and the power is like block 75 or something like that. As for the dash you got torq in the side pannal that you need to get and then the two on he bottom. Just give it a nice tug stight out and the panal shound pop off. What vent you useing? Door vent is EZ and just run it stirght down, center vent your gonna have to fish the line over to the steering wheel its not fun but doable. I have to vent taken away left center and door vent.
> 
> 
> Edit: google helps you out to.. ---->http://public.fotki.com/blackfnTTruck/defi_boost_gauge_install/





Chuckmeister87 said:


> Where do I add my T-joint to get boost to run to my boost gauge?




:facepalm: DID you not look at the link???


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

20psi now said:


> :facepalm: DID you not look at the link???


There's a link??:laugh:


----------



## 20psi now (Feb 26, 2009)

PLAYED TT said:


> There's a link??:laugh:


:laugh: I kown right!!


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Awww shwitz! I had been looking for a link like that. My pics are clearer so I'll post all of mine when I'm done. I also took out the AC vent correctly


----------



## Rford71 (Sep 1, 2011)

*Safe way to make purchases other members*

I'm thinking of purchasing some wheels from another member on this forum that lives on the other site of the country. What would be the best way to pay for them. I'm looking for a safe and secure way to send money without getting ripped off?

thanks


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

I'd use paypal, but like any purchase, you're just gonna have to have a little faith in your fellow TT owner.

cheers.


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

Well you could also do an email money transfer. You don't get dinged the paypal fees (3%) and it's direct bank to bank.

I friggin hate paypal.


----------



## Tom333 (Nov 2, 2010)

Rford71 said:


> I'm thinking of purchasing some wheels from another member on this forum that lives on the other site of the country. What would be the best way to pay for them. I'm looking for a safe and secure way to send money without getting ripped off?
> 
> thanks


go with PP and have it connected to your credit card. You have two company to help you out just in-case someone tries to ripped you off.



Anyway, does the FWD TT has the same Front caliper as the AWD front caliper?


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

My gf is freaking out about me racing. She thought it was OK for me to race my friend in an empty parking lot, but she doesn't want me to "autocross" under PROPER SUPERVISION:screwy:. She's worried for my safety. Sooooooo I've spent hours looking online trying to find out the RISKS and DANGERS of autocross racing, but I haven't found anything. She isn't buying it. Does anyone know what they are? :facepalm:


I hate this:banghead:


----------



## Currancchs (Feb 24, 2011)

There is some safety information on the quattro club site that claims the risks of autocross are probably lower than on your daily commute, and they talk about safety measures and supervision they offer. Hope this helps!

Sent from my PG06100 using Tapatalk


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> My gf is freaking out about me racing. She thought it was OK for me to race my friend in an empty parking lot, but she doesn't want me to "autocross" under PROPER SUPERVISION:screwy:. She's worried for my safety. Sooooooo I've spent hours looking online trying to find out the RISKS and DANGERS of autocross racing, but I haven't found anything. She isn't buying it. Does anyone know what they are? :facepalm:
> 
> 
> I hate this:banghead:


Autocross is virtually without risks to you or even your car (course is layed out with cones and there is mandatory run off space) . The odds of you getting hurt is about as high as driving to the corner store in the suburbs. Little kids participate in go-carts for crying out loud, so you know it's safe! Tell the girlfriend that the only thing you risk seriously hurting is your "ego" and she will fund for you to go! 

*Have her watch these videos about the sport so she has a visual of the low impact sport that it is (except for hitting cones) *

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=S_LMvx4E3wI

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UzWGwBd0DBg

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pTCvudqDqkc

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=n6yNejk7MwI


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

I am new to the TT owners world as of two days ago... I haven't had a chance to look yet, but am curious how to seperate the headlight lens from the housing? I would like to remove the reflectors and spray the inside black.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Use Paypal, send/receive money as a gift


----------



## nilreb (Mar 17, 2012)

*High RPM?*

Is it normal to be at 3000 at 60mph? 
I have a stock 180hp quattro. 
My corolla can go 60 at 2000


----------



## AlaskaTT (Oct 19, 2011)

Forty-six and 2 said:


> I am new to the TT owners world as of two days ago... I haven't had a chance to look yet, but am curious how to seperate the headlight lens from the housing? I would like to remove the reflectors and spray the inside black.


Here is a helpful photo series on the process. Basicallly you remove the wheel, bumper then headlight. Then bake the headlight to soften the adhesive on the lens. Pictures are worth a thousand words though. This is on my summer list of projects too.

http://public.fotki.com/martt/audi_tt/mods/clear/


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

AlaskaTT said:


> Here is a helpful photo series on the process. Basicallly you remove the wheel, bumper then headlight. Then bake the headlight to soften the adhesive on the lens. Pictures are worth a thousand words though. This is on my summer list of projects too.
> 
> http://public.fotki.com/martt/audi_tt/mods/clear/


here's another...by Mike Phillips (DEFCONs). Nearly 100 pics plus text. I did mine a couple of years ago following his instructions. It's very easy; just take your time and you'll have great results.

http://public.fotki.com/mcphill/audi_stuff/lighting_systems/osirdesign_smoked/

cheers


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

For those running the 2.0t coil packs, what spark plugs are you using?


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

nilreb said:


> Is it normal to be at 3000 at 60mph?
> I have a stock 180hp quattro.
> My corolla can go 60 at 2000


That's stock. Your TT (same as mine) has a blank in the spot where 6th gear goes. If you want to spend about 4k on adding in a 6th gear, you can be doing 60mph and saving gas using your new 6th gear to PAY for your new 6th gear :laugh:


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

Thanks for the links. :beer:


----------



## nilreb (Mar 17, 2012)

$4k hehe i only drive this on the weekends. Would a 225 6 speed transmission fit? I can get one for $450


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

nilreb said:


> $4k hehe i only drive this on the weekends. Would a 225 6 speed transmission fit? I can get one for $450




I dont know, but you'd still have to modify things in your car to be able to shift into 6th... but if it does can you get a second one??


----------



## Jayizdaman (Apr 18, 2005)

What battery fits out key fobs? I have a 2000 Audi TT and when I searched here everything said CR2032, but it's WAY too big for my battery slot, I'm assuming since my car is older the remote must have also had a different design.


----------



## Ghostalker (Mar 23, 2009)

Jayizdaman said:


> What battery fits out key fobs? I have a 2000 Audi TT and when I searched here everything said CR2032, but it's WAY too big for my battery slot, I'm assuming since my car is older the remote must have also had a different design.


It's a CR1620 for the TT and A8 =D


----------



## Jayizdaman (Apr 18, 2005)

Ghostalker said:


> It's a CR1620 for the TT and A8 =D


Enjoy the virtual beer my friend, :beer: Thank you!


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

once lowered do i need to get an aligment?
also, i lowered it is there anything i have to replace?
My fenders are 24.5 inhes from the ground
Also i got the FWD 
TIA


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

yes no


----------



## Jayizdaman (Apr 18, 2005)

Jayizdaman said:


> What battery fits out key fobs? I have a 2000 Audi TT and when I searched here everything said CR2032, but it's WAY too big for my battery slot, I'm assuming since my car is older the remote must have also had a different design.


Damn it, the new battery didn't work


----------



## Shawninho (Nov 16, 2011)

One of my rear side marker bulbs is out... what kinda bulb is this, any links to get them cheap?


----------



## chads (May 27, 2010)

Does it make me a douche if I like to just look at my car? 

I got a seat at Panda Express by the window just so I could look at my car. Lol. That sounds pretty sad.


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

chads said:


> Does it make me a douche if I like to just look at my car?
> 
> I got a seat at Panda Express by the window just so I could look at my car. Lol. That sounds pretty sad.


Nope I do it all the time. Then again Some people think I'm a douche


----------



## chads (May 27, 2010)

PLAYED TT said:


> Nope I do it all the time. Then again Some people think I'm a douche


Well at least I'm not the only one. 

Now for a real question. 

Is there an easy way to change just the strut bushings?

I thought I read you could remove those top nuts and then add a nut without the flange or something like that? Then you just drop the strut enough to get the bushings out?

Is that nut the same size as stock if I am on coilovers?


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

:thumbup: for a thread well used


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

I read in the Owner's Manual that you should not downshift too early. This kind of stress is bad for the engine so it says. Is engine breaking ok in the TT?


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> I read in the Owner's Manual that you should not downshift too early. This kind of stress is bad for the engine so it says. Is engine breaking ok in the TT?


It's OK but very stressful for components on both side of the flywheel (especially when poorly executed without rev matching the speed differential on both side).


----------



## Ghostalker (Mar 23, 2009)

Jayizdaman said:


> Damn it, the new battery didn't work


Did you get two? It takes two stacked on top of each other. Good luck!


----------



## Jayizdaman (Apr 18, 2005)

Ghostalker said:


> Did you get two? It takes two stacked on top of each other. Good luck!


OHHHHH!, I didn't know that haha :banghead: I don't have to do anything after putting the new batteries in though right? Played had mentioned something with having all 3 keys to have them programmed if you changed a lock cylinder or changed batteries? I only have 2, one remote and one valet, I want a new remote but they are way too expensive and I don't want to deal with getting the ECU immobilized.


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

chads said:


> Does it make me a douche if I like to just look at my car?
> 
> I got a seat at Panda Express by the window just so I could look at my car. Lol. That sounds pretty sad.





PLAYED TT said:


> Nope I do it all the time. Then again Some people think I'm a douche


Perfectly normal behavior. The way I look at it, we can either sit by the window and look at someone's POS-honda/non-TT or....look at a sweet, sweet, TT.

cheers.


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

chads said:


> Well at least I'm not the only one.
> 
> Now for a real question.
> 
> ...



Steve Schwing's 1 hour DIY link for bearing/bushing replacement here:

http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/1_hour_strut_bearin/

cheers


----------



## Ghostalker (Mar 23, 2009)

Stolen from audittcca.com
"How do I reprogram the remote control?
1. Take the valet key, put it into the ignition and turn the key to the "on" position, just prior to starting the car. 

2. Roll down the driver's side window (not required, but a good idea in case there's a problem). 

3. Exit the car and close the door. 

4. With a second key, physically lock the doors (don't use a remote). 

5. Take the first remote to be programmed, press one of the buttons and the lights will flash once. Wait 10 seconds and press the unlock button. The doors should unlock. That first transmitter is now programmed. 

6. Lock the door again (physically) with the key, (not the remote). 

7. Press one of the buttons twice, the lights will flash twice. Wait 10 seconds and press the unlock button. The doors should unlock. The second transmitter is now programmed."

This seems like exactly what i did when i programmed my little brothers remote to work with his Audi A6 2.7t, so i imagine it is correct, and you only need an extra key to keep in the ignition.eace:eace:


----------



## Jayizdaman (Apr 18, 2005)

Ghostalker said:


> Stolen from audittcca.com
> "How do I reprogram the remote control?
> 1. Take the valet key, put it into the ignition and turn the key to the "on" position, just prior to starting the car.
> 
> ...


I'm running out of Virtual Beers to give out :beer: Thanks for the help!


----------



## velocitychris (Jul 16, 2011)

20v master said:


> I use a spark plug socket with a box wrench to hold the hex end and a long allen through the socket. No special tools required.


I pretty much accidentally found the right tool in a chainsaw adjustment tool that had the box wrench, open ended with a bar on the outside for turning it! It was laying around the garage and I was 30km from a tool store so it saved my day. Hilareous!


----------



## velocitychris (Jul 16, 2011)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> My gf is freaking out about me racing. She thought it was OK for me to race my friend in an empty parking lot, but she doesn't want me to "autocross" under PROPER SUPERVISION:screwy:. She's worried for my safety. Sooooooo I've spent hours looking online trying to find out the RISKS and DANGERS of autocross racing, but I haven't found anything. She isn't buying it. Does anyone know what they are? :facepalm:
> 
> 
> I hate this:banghead:


And if you properly learn to Autocross you SHOULD become a more aware driver with better car control, allowing you to better respond to random sh!tty drivers out in the real world.


----------



## chads (May 27, 2010)

TTC2k5 said:


> Steve Schwing's 1 hour DIY link for bearing/bushing replacement here:
> 
> http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/1_hour_strut_bearin/
> 
> cheers


Thanks, that gave me a good idea of what to do. 

My problem was, my strut nuts were 22mm. So a 13/16 spark plug socket wouldn't work. I got lucky while looking around AutoZone and found a 7/8 spark plug socket type thing, not really sure what it was called. It ended up working perfectly. 

The passengers side was a different story. I was using Allen wrenches with ball ends, that was a mistake. I should have known that, but I'm too impatient sometimes. Ended up stripping the inside of the allen key. :banghead: 

Finally I just said f*ck it and took the impact to it. It worked after a few shots. Should have just done that from the beginning. 

Moral of the story: F*ck ball end allen wrenches. :laugh:


----------



## Ghostalker (Mar 23, 2009)

Does anyone know off hand what size the haldex filter is? I have some giant sockets from work that i would like to try to use rather than pay for the stupid tool. They have a hole in the side of them, could just shove an allen key or something it them for leverage. But would rather see if i have the correct size before jacking up the car etc.


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

chads said:


> Thanks, that gave me a good idea of what to do.
> 
> My problem was, my strut nuts were 22mm. So a 13/16 spark plug socket wouldn't work. I got lucky while looking around AutoZone and found a 7/8 spark plug socket type thing, not really sure what it was called. It ended up working perfectly.
> 
> ...


This. I've always used the impact on the front struts. Trickiest part is not overtightening them after.


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Ghostalker said:


> Does anyone know off hand what size the haldex filter is? I have some giant sockets from work that i would like to try to use rather than pay for the stupid tool. They have a hole in the side of them, could just shove an allen key or something it them for leverage. But would rather see if i have the correct size before jacking up the car etc.


Just buy the tool. You won't get a socket In there


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

you can use a large flathead screwdriver and hammer. place tip of screwdrive on haldex filter point, tap handle end of screwdriver with hammer. it will come loose.

cheers.


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Is it bad to take your car out of gear and coast down the street? I heard that while you're in gear oil is splashing all over your trans and if you take it out the oil stops but your trans keeps moving with your wheels


----------



## 20psi now (Feb 26, 2009)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> Is it bad to take your car out of gear and coast down the street? I heard that while you're in gear oil is splashing all over your trans and if you take it out the oil stops but your trans keeps moving with your wheels


WOW... :facepalm:


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

20psi now said:


> WOW... :facepalm:


:laugh: I missed being on here on April 1st Cheers :beer:


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

gonna go unitronic stage 2 got a fwd TT 
do i need upgraded pcv valve? 

so far i got a CAI,evolution motorsports DV, 2.5 dp, no resonator and sport series magnaflow muffler, gonna remove the cat once i get the chip 

What else do i need? 
TIA


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Mantvis said:


> gonna go unitronic stage 2 got a fwd TT
> do i need upgraded pcv valve?
> 
> so far i got a CAI,evolution motorsports DV, 2.5 dp, no resonator and sport series magnaflow muffler, gonna remove the cat once i get the chip
> ...


 180: 

REQUIRED HARDWARE: 
Turbo Back Exhaust System 
Cold Air Intake / Short Ram 

RECOMMENDED HARDWARE: 
Upgraded (DV) Diverter Valve 
Upgraded Intercooler 



225: 

REQUIRED HARDWARE: 
Turbo Back Exhaust System 
Cold Air Intake / Short Ram 

RECOMMENDED HARDWARE: 
Upgraded (DV) Diverter Valve 
Upgraded Intercooler 


^ Straight from the website :thumbup:


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Yep, i know thanks tho! 
But ive heard something goes bad with the pcv valve hmm 
so im just wondering if its true or not :thumbup:


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Not that I know of


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

sounds good! 
thx! 

Good thread that i thought off! :laugh::laugh::laugh:


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Mantvis said:


> sounds good!
> thx!
> 
> Good thread that i thought off! :laugh::laugh::laugh:


 
My PCV is bad, then again my car is 13 years old. I just got Stage 1+ put on it and I'm sure it's been busted long before that. Remove the PCV and install an oil catch can (I'm going to do that) and you'll be improving your car


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

I need help with my Prosport Guage! I had the *red* and *white* wires hooked up to the same hotspot in my car (both to the same wire that was hot only when my car was on). For some reason, it didn't always turn_ amber_ when I turned on my headlights even though that's where the *orange* wire is connected. 

I disconnected the *red* wire from the gauge and connected it to a wire that is always hot, like the directions say to do. Now my gauge works 100% correctly of the time whenever I turn my lights on, but the gauge is now on (white) even when the car is off. 

What is then solution?? :banghead:


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

well you want to have white when no lights, and red when ligts are on?


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Read the wiring diagram? Shouldnt it only have one wire on the positive? Post a picture


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Yeah I got it. The wiring diagram was wrong. I've got it working properly now and I'm making a guide :beer:


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Alright..
What a bestt way to fix a cracked oil pan?
Its a small crack, so i dont see a point of.getting a new one.
Also, how bad does this tire look?
Should i replace it?


















Sent from HTC Evo 3D


----------



## Ghostalker (Mar 23, 2009)

My friend with a VR6 Mk3 jetta just fixed a very small crack in his oil pan last night with JBweld. Apparently that is one of the suggested uses (you just hold pressure on the joint while it sets). 
He drove down 15 mile round trip last night right after putting it on and it held up so far hah. 
And that tire doesn't look to happy... with the stretch you've got going I would be worried it could give under hard cornering =(


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

New wheel. New tire. Job weld is ok but a real weld is the best.


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Well the tire ripped when they were stretching it on at discounted tire. should i email them?
Tires are brand new, maybe 200 miles on them.
I will have to try that weld thing on the pan.

Played, why new wheel?
Its not cracked. Just the tire has a rip in it.

Sent from HTC Evo 3D


----------



## 1.8 skeet skeet (Aug 11, 2004)

I would take it right back to discount tire and tell them that they are buying you a new tire!


----------



## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

You can fix that wheel. Ha i've seen our wheel guy fix taco wheels.


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

1.8 skeet skeet said:


> I would take it right back to discount tire and tell them that they are buying you a new tire!


 they gonnas say that it ripped due to the stretch. 
since it has been like 200 miles on it


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Sorry I got the pan and wheel mixed up when I wrote that.


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Mantvis said:


> they gonnas say that it ripped due to the stretch.
> since it has been like 200 miles on it


 That's bs. They don't know what they're doing or you hit something. Either way I would get ready to buy a new one of I were you


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

Why did you drive 200miles on it like that before you emailed them? Or did you not notice?


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Neb said:


> Why did you drive 200miles on it like that before you emailed them? Or did you not notice?


 i JUST saw it today :facepalm:


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Good guys, will replace my tire. They ordered it, should take a few days.

Sent from HTC Evo 3D


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Thats a surprise


----------



## Ghostalker (Mar 23, 2009)

I was on a different computer before and I stumbled upon a tire/wheel/poke/fitment calculator that I have been looking for. 
What I am really looking for is if it would be OK to run 225/45/17 on Porsche twists 8 in front and 9 in rear. Would the slight stretch in the rear put me over the 4% 'allowance' for our quattro system? I feel like it would be fine but I don't want to screw myself over hah.


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Front would see no stretch, and the rear a little bit.
Youd be fine

Sent from HTC Evo 3D


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

*Size-Bolt Pattern- Offset- Center Bore- Lip Size*
17x10- 5x100- 15- 57.1- 4.0"
17x8.5- 5x100- 20- 57.1- 3.0"

with 205/45/17 on the front and 225/45/17 on the rear?

Would something like this fit a TT


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Maybe


----------



## michealtheworm (Jan 28, 2012)

If i have 8 mm spacers do i need new bolts? i can get a set of 8mm for 30 shipped used. thanks


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Yep, and you'll also have to pay attention to whether the bolts are conical or ballseat, stock are the ball type, whereas a lot of aftermarket wheels use conical bolts :thumbup:


----------



## night_OWL (Nov 15, 2011)

Just a random question...

Why do people drop $1K+ on wheels then go super cheap on Nexen tires?


----------



## Ghostalker (Mar 23, 2009)

night_OWL said:


> Just a random question...
> 
> Why do people drop $1K+ on wheels then go super cheap on Nexen tires?


My friends and I were just talking about this today. Its the only part of your car that touches the ground. I think most people don't appreciate a good tire. They might have used OEM selected, if they are lucky and ever get a newer car. Otherwise to them a tire is just a part that has to be replaced every few dozen thousand miles, or less. 
The ONLY reasoning we could find is people with 'fitment' are running lots of camber are rubbing the fender, in that case why rip up good tires when you don't have to? Your car handles so poorly because it can barely move its wheels that the performance from the tire doesn't matter. 
For those trying to get the most out of their cars, good tires are a must. 
"For drivers who want to get the most out of their cars: It’s Bridgestone or Nothing!" Though really there are tons of good tires out there hah.


----------



## chads (May 27, 2010)

Anyone know where I can find 35 or 40mm spacers? I'm not having any luck with H&R or anywhere else.


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Adaptec or Motorsport tech


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Ghostalker said:


> My friends and I were just talking about this today. Its the only part of your car that touches the ground. I think most people don't appreciate a good tire. They might have used OEM selected, if they are lucky and ever get a newer car. Otherwise to them a tire is just a part that has to be replaced every few dozen thousand miles, or less.
> The ONLY reasoning we could find is people with 'fitment' are running lots of camber are rubbing the fender, in that case why rip up good tires when you don't have to? Your car handles so poorly because it can barely move its wheels that the performance from the tire doesn't matter.
> For those trying to get the most out of their cars, good tires are a must.
> "For drivers who want to get the most out of their cars: It&#146;s Bridgestone or Nothing!" Though really there are tons of good tires out there hah.


I run yokahama s drives and have camber and I rub. You can't even tell there's any wear at all on them. I'm really impressed to be honest.


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

What would be a compatible manual trans? 
im about to do a swap from auto to manual. I have 03 FWD version with AWP engine.


----------



## chads (May 27, 2010)

PLAYED TT said:


> Adaptec or Motorsport tech


Thanks you! That's what I was looking for.


----------



## peter139 (May 4, 2005)

my question:

Why did audi mount a 17kg solid heavy block of steel behind the rear bumper? 
Does it affect on the riding quality if i remove this piece ?

(sorry if asked before)


----------



## rhythm629 (Jun 2, 2010)

*Oil?*

Is there an undisputed best oil?
Where is the best place online to buy in bulk inexpensively?


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Everyone will have their own opinion on that one. 

The ballast was for weight distribution


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

Mantvis said:


> *Size-Bolt Pattern- Offset- Center Bore- Lip Size*
> 17x10- 5x100- 15- 57.1- 4.0"
> 17x8.5- 5x100- 20- 57.1- 3.0"
> 
> ...


You may be poking quite a bit in the rear with that setup.



peter139 said:


> my question:
> 
> Why did audi mount a 17kg solid heavy block of steel behind the rear bumper?
> Does it affect on the riding quality if i remove this piece ?
> ...


Audi added the weight and the spoiler at the same time as the rear of the car was a little loose at very high speeds. For daily driving the car it's fine to remove. Maybe if you're going 180km/h I would keep it though..


----------



## okiedog (Jun 9, 2008)

*tons of dumb*

any hoses I should replace before upgrading my ecu? or any hoses i should just replace for good measure? this is just the first of many dumb questions.. love this thread


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

I'm going to get these fenders since my right one is beyond repair

http://www.ttstuff.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=TTM1-V1&Category_Code=T1BOE



Are they dumb? :laugh:


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

No..more original then the oem ones


----------



## chads (May 27, 2010)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> I'm going to get these fenders since my right one is beyond repair
> 
> http://www.ttstuff.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=TTM1-V1&Category_Code=T1BOE
> 
> ...



They came on the concept.


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

chads said:


> They came on the concept.


Yeah, but that's the roadster concept, not the coupe. I hope the extra air through my engine bay helps cool my car via the SMIC


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

they are dumb. 

I think I've only seen one or two cars that really pull them off well.


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

I've only ever seen them in person once but I really don't mind them.


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

If you see them in person can you get some good pics? I dont know if they were made cheap or not and $550 is a lot to spend on a cheaply made part


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

They are amazing looking, and add a lot of aggression to the TT's looks without being over the top (*cough* 1pc grill swap). I want a set BADLY, but exterior happens after the fun stuff and I get a hooptie


----------



## Ghostalker (Mar 23, 2009)

l88m22vette said:


> They are amazing looking, and add a lot of aggression to the TT's looks without being over the top (*cough* 1pc grill swap). I want a set BADLY, but exterior happens after the fun stuff and I get a hooptie


As long as this is still in the stupid question thread, what do you mean 1pc grill swap?
The only thing that comes to mind when i think over the top aggressive is the mk2 style grill and front end on mk1s... :screwy:


----------



## VW1.8Tsunami (Mar 8, 2007)

How 'big guy friendly' is the TT? I'm almost 6'4 and ~290lbs, (wider in the shoulders than the gut) :laugh:


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Ghostalker said:


> As long as this is still in the stupid question thread, what do you mean 1pc grill swap?
> The only thing that comes to mind when i think over the top aggressive is the mk2 style grill and front end on mk1s... :screwy:


 That's what he's talking about.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

VW1.8Tsunami said:


> How 'big guy friendly' is the TT? I'm almost 6'4 and ~290lbs, (wider in the shoulders than the gut) :laugh:


 As long as you have good range of motion of your neck and are careful with shoes/boots on the door sills, you'll be fine. :laugh: Seriously, don't the TT's have problems with possible driver egress out the window with a helmet on in the event of an accident during a racing event? Once you're in they're good, but ingress/egress isn't friendly to larger bodies.


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

VW1.8Tsunami said:


> How 'big guy friendly' is the TT? I'm almost 6'4 and ~290lbs, (wider in the shoulders than the gut) :laugh:


 My brother is that big and he fits in fine. I'm 6ft and I have no issues, but you might want to find a car with larger windows if you have trouble seeing out of them


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

I'm 6' and I fit fine. Then again I only weigh a buck 70 :laugh:


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

I misplaced the thread about spark plugs. On the copper NGKs with a Uni Stage1+ and stock components I should run a 0.4 gap on my plugs, yes? Smaller? :banghead:


----------



## Jayizdaman (Apr 18, 2005)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> I misplaced the thread about spark plugs. On the copper NGKs with a Uni Stage1+ and stock components I should run a 0.4 gap on my plugs, yes? Smaller? :banghead:


 If you're using the standard coilpacks .028" if you're using the 2.0T coilpacks I believe it is .04"


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Jayizdaman said:


> If you're using the standard coilpacks .028" if you're using the 2.0T coilpacks I believe it is .04"


 Ooooooh....... need to shrink the gap I made then. Thank you, sir :beer:


----------



## Jayizdaman (Apr 18, 2005)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> Ooooooh....... need to shrink the gap I made then. Thank you, sir :beer:


 No problem. Did you get the 6E's or the 7E's? You need to go colder if you're chipped and run the 6's...


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Jayizdaman said:


> No problem. Did you get the 6E's or the 7E's? You need to go colder if you're chipped and run the 6's...


 No, I got the 7Es. The guys at TAP looked at me funny and said "those aren't for your car" so I had to explain myself. They said they heard the copper ones felt better, but since you replace them MUCH more often than platinum plugs they expect my coil packs will wear out quicker from removing them more often (unless I use the took that reaches down to grab low on the coil). 

If these dont make a big difference in how the car feels I'm going back to platinums in 10k miles. :thumbup:


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

My first set of coppers lasted less then 5k miles lol. Good thing I bought 5 packs


----------



## peter139 (May 4, 2005)

Want to buy a mbc for my car. There are 2 types, bleed type and ball valve type. 

I've searched allot on google an vwvortex but the experiences are so different. 

Most people advice a ball valve but some other advice a bleed type. 

Installing the ball valve should create more boost to an adjusted point 
The bleed valve seems to ride better and smoother, but is less agressive than de ball type. 

Car is stock, only thing i want is to increase boost a little (1-3psi) and get a smoother accelerate. 

Which one should i buy?


----------



## Currancchs (Feb 24, 2011)

Personally, I'd just go with a chip tune/flash. If you look around enough there are some cheap ECU's that are already flashed being sold in the classified's section. I found a immo defeated GIAC for about $215 shipped, then traded that for an APR stage I, just paid shipping. You might even be able to sell your stock ECU for what you paid for a flashed one. I went with APR just because there is a dealer down the street from me, and I was able to get the warranty transferred. A good MBC will run you half of that anyways, and from what I've heard can be a headache. If you increase boost very little it should be OK, but when you modify the MAP sensor to not read true boost, so you're able to up boost more, seems like you'd lose some overboost/limp mode protection. Also, If smooth power is what you want, I don't think an MBC would be the route to go, I think most people around here use them to help with spool, have boost come on earlier, but if you don't run in conjunction with an N75 you'll be getting whatever you set it at whenever the turbo can produce it. 

That's my understanding at least. End Rant.


----------



## peter139 (May 4, 2005)

ok thanks for your advice. 

Mapsensor is 14psi i run now 7psi and want to increase it to 10psi. Want to try a mbc because it's cheap.


----------



## scoTT. (Jul 18, 2011)

quick question... 

what is the best way to mount a front euro plate?? also where is the best place to order one online? thanks


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

With a frame and anywhere overseas. Might as well get a real one I'd you're spending the money


----------



## michealtheworm (Jan 28, 2012)

#1 If i install a new o2 sensor, can i install a Gauge onto the sensor that runs the car??? I had a shop tell me that you dont want to do that but i dont want to buy another o2 sensor. Is it bad for the ecu? Or can i split the wires and run the gauge off the same one? thanks :screwy: 

#2 if i install springs that lower my TT about 1in, Do i need camber correction or new control arms? Thanks!


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

The answer to the last is no. Only if you go lower


----------



## michealtheworm (Jan 28, 2012)

thanks Played... That helps a lot. I cant wait to get my springs on now.:thumbup:


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Why do people key and ding my car on purpose?? 

How can I stop them??


----------



## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

With a gun........ 

How do you link a garage door opener with the one thats in the car next to the mirror?


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Audiguy84 said:


> With a gun........
> 
> How do you link a garage door opener with the one thats in the car next to the mirror?


 That lol


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Audiguy84 said:


> ...How do you link a garage door opener with the one thats in the car next to the mirror?


 Andy, 

pm your email to me and I'll try to scan the instructions from my owners manual and email them to you. 

bob


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Alright 
How do i get my coilovers lower on the back? What can i remove from the coilover to make it sit like a half inch lower? 
Also by removing something, will it be still save to drive? 
I got the FWD ...


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

You need to search my friend. This has been covered a million times


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Perches i know.. Anything else??


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Nope


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Would that mean of i was to jack my rear end up, the springs would just pop out of its place??


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Pics from my 225 suspension rebuild ^^^. Eibach spring top, OEM bottom. 




Mantvis said:


> Would that mean of i was to jack my rear end up, the springs would just pop out of its place??


 Not as long as the shock and rear drop link were still properly attached. but, the spring is only held in place by tension. Once the rear drop link and shock are disconnected, will a little downward force on the control arm or top of the rear brake disk, the spring just lifts out. 


cheers.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

If it pops out you did something wrong


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Is there a better head I could use for my 180q? I'm looking for increased power WITH reliability


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

Anyone have any pictures stashed of tt's with the caractere front bumper?


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

I think this is the whole body kit. I could be wrong, but it better be the one you want since I went out of the way to upload it for you:laugh: 
 
9 (1 of 1) by old school vr6, on Flickr


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

Sure is!  Thanks 










This is pretty much the only other one I have found, other than their own pics of it. I have always like it, minus the dimples. The silver ones looks like it has bigger rear arches, or is it just me?


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

Audiguy84 said:


> How do you link a garage door opener with the one thats in the car next to the mirror?


 still need


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Forty-six and 2 said:


> Sure is!  Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 It must be you they look normal to me 
glad that helped tho:thumbup:


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

I guess I am just dreaming of widened fenders while retaining factory cleaness...  

I found a caractere knockoff bumper on ebay. I am considering it since it is cheap, but don't car too much for it being fiberglass. It has some ugly lnes where the original has dimples, but those could be shaved off. Seems like it would need Votex skirts to match the bumper's added length imo.


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Yeah skirts are a def


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

Anyone here using a Braille battery? Which one did you go with? If not Braille, what did you use? 

I want to relocate my battery, so just looking into options for it.


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...cation-Corbeau-Seat-6-point-Harnesses-(w-bar)


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

Anyone delete their cats when running a custom exhaust? Can the o2 be tricked like it can be in other cars?


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

With a spacer or tune


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

I know this isn't the right area to ask, but can you get sponsored from autox?


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Can I get a ticket in the US for having a Europlate with "HɔT1𐐒3VÖM" on it? :laugh:


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Probably. Cops are dicks


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

Any experience with borla mufflers? I used to work at an auto repair/exhaust shop, so a catless 3" dp back exhaust could be had for only a couple bucks. All I need to find is a decent sounding muffler. Borla comes to mind first, but I have zero knowledge of their sound.


----------



## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

Well I haven't seen a borla muffler that fits that you can.. magnaflow makes a nice one , get the one thats for the camaro.


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

A borla 40474 is a transverse flow muffler. 3" inlet, dual 2 1/2 outlets. Its expensive though, at $290.


----------



## WiKKiDTT (Aug 13, 2009)

Forty-six and 2 said:


> Anyone delete their cats when running a custom exhaust? Can the o2 be tricked like it can be in other cars?


Yes get a spacer or two. 42dd makes one that works as well


----------



## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

Only paid a hundered or so for my magnaflow...


----------



## chads (May 27, 2010)

Can someone explain to me why the 6 spoke center caps from the dealer and ECS are $50 each, HERE.

But if you look on EBAY you can buy 4 for $50, HERE.

Surely the EBAY ones can't be that bad. I just need them to sit in my wheel. :laugh:


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

considering they have a part number that's a steal. And you have a 60 day replacement warranty on them.


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

I have a boost leak. Where are the common places to look? :facepalm:


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Did you do anything recently with hosing or connections? It could be charge piping, hoses from the intake manifold, crappy gaskets, or a hole in your intercooler. Two tips: have someone start the car and listen around, you can sometimes hear leaks, or use a spray bottle of very soapy water and spray around, you might get lucky and see bubbles.


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

Also grab a can of carb cleaner. Start the car and spray it on all your vacuum lines, and intake flange area. The idle with go up if suck in any of the cleaner. You will be able to pin point where it is leaking at that point. Just be sure to keep it off the exhaust.


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

Are there any TT's out there with side exit exhaust? Just looking for pictures, and not coming up with much.


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Someone makes a body kit with exits for one if I remember correctly. But in PA the law states that the exit must be 12" from the last door to be legal and I think it would be to close, not to mention it would hang too low


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> I have a boost leak. Where are the common places to look? :facepalm:


The entire vaccum system, the PCV system and and the EVAP crap. 

Your best bet is to do a pressure test and follow that with a smoke test.


----------



## peter139 (May 4, 2005)

I ve a small problem with my throttle valve. It looks like it's responding to slow comparing with my right feet.

It looks like my driving skills are bad, but it's really the car. Very irritating.
I cleaned the housing already and did an alignment with vagkom. But it's still bad.

Anyone?


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

I just took mine apart. Try popping the top off and there will be a circuit board. Clean the contacts and see if that helps. You can find pictures of it apart in my build thread in my sig:thumbup:


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

Anyone pulling off 17"s well?


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Mine are 17's


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

I didn't realize it, maybe the pink threw me off. :laugh:

Is this clearance at this...










...ride height?











Any other cars/picture you have stashed?

Looks damn good btw. :beer:


----------



## Imola_TT (Aug 21, 2011)

what's happening here?








Sorry, I don't know the right terms...but I see exposed wires and I'm thinking that's not right.
I presume the parts by the arrows should be connected...but when I tried to snap them back together, well, nothing snapped. So I'm assuming the plastic coupler thingy is broken.

Is this bad?
I considered wrapping in electrical tape...but then wondered if maybe that would be worse.

it's a 2005 225q if that helps.
Sorry for the horrible pic; it's an old iphone, and the only light is my trusty mini maglight.

Thanks!


----------



## miller6323 (May 13, 2012)

does anyone know where to find center caps for stock 17" 6 spoke.. also, does anybody know how to change the dipstick funnel on the 1.8?


----------



## warpedhalo (Sep 23, 2010)

I changed mine... I believe I didn't use any tools either. I believe I pulled the old one out (which was broken) and put the new one in. Don't remember... it was a while ago but I beleive that's what I did.


----------



## warpedhalo (Sep 23, 2010)

Oh, I have a stupid question: Is there already a tutorial on how to make reverse-polarity map light bulbs or a link on where to get them that still works? I've been trying forever to have LED map light bulbs and have only found one thread about it and the link to them didn't work. Also, the part number didn't exist on the site when I tried to go there and find them. BUT I figured out how to reverse the polarity myself, which was pretty easy and lets you use whatever ebay leds you want. Is there anything out there already or do I need to bust out the camera and make a DIY?


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Forty-six and 2 said:


> I didn't realize it, maybe the pink threw me off. :laugh:
> 
> Is this clearance at this...
> 
> ...


Thanks man. Those are all I have as of now. Tho one in the parking lot is ride height. Once I get it out of the garage Im going lower


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

warpedhalo said:


> Oh, I have a stupid question: Is there already a tutorial on how to make reverse-polarity map light bulbs or a link on where to get them that still works? I've been trying forever to have LED map light bulbs and have only found one thread about it and the link to them didn't work. Also, the part number didn't exist on the site when I tried to go there and find them. BUT I figured out how to reverse the polarity myself, which was pretty easy and lets you use whatever ebay leds you want. Is there anything out there already or do I need to bust out the camera and make a DIY?


Make a DIY!!


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

warpedhalo said:


> I changed mine... I believe I didn't use any tools either. I believe I pulled the old one out (which was broken) and put the new one in. Don't remember... it was a while ago but I beleive that's what I did.


This^


----------



## benocehcap (Apr 2, 2007)

Hi!
How you work the headlight washer? Or that little square thing on the front bumper:laugh:


----------



## Currancchs (Feb 24, 2011)

benocehcap said:


> Hi!
> How you work the headlight washer? Or that little square thing on the front bumper:laugh:


Just use the windshield washer as normal with the headlights on. 

Sent from my PG06100 using Tapatalk


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## miller6323 (May 13, 2012)

warpedhalo said:


> I changed mine... I believe I didn't use any tools either. I believe I pulled the old one out (which was broken) and put the new one in. Don't remember... it was a while ago but I beleive that's what I did.


so it just slides out and back in? doesnt seem very secure. im out of country right now but ill be back shortly so ill give it a try.


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

^ Sure does, hold it for a few seconds :thumbup:


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

miller6323 said:


> so it just slides out and back in? doesnt seem very secure. im out of country right now but ill be back shortly so ill give it a try.


The piece that comes out of the block is metal. Then the plastic piece slides over the top of the metal tube. There are little guides that help to keep it secure too


----------



## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

Forty-six and 2 said:


> Are there any TT's out there with side exit exhaust? Just looking for pictures, and not coming up with much.


ya krissrock has side exit exhaust. just one side I think.


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

Currancchs said:


> Just use the windshield washer as normal with the headlights on.
> 
> Sent from my PG06100 using Tapatalk


I have to hold my wipers back for 3-4 seconds before it activates the aliens


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Neb said:


> I have to hold my wipers back for 3-4 seconds before it activates the aliens


Yeah it's delayed. Both won't go off right away


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

Will +15 et clear the front brake calipers?


----------



## nilreb (Mar 17, 2012)

2001 180 TT Coupe

What color are the lens covers. is it clear or smoked or it's just the dark grey housing that makes it look smoked?


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

They are clear. The inside is black.


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Forty-six and 2 said:


> They are clear. The inside is black.


Or painted...











cheers


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Forty-six and 2 said:


> Will +15 et clear the front brake calipers?


Yeah


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

My friend asked me: "Can I break one of my cylinders so I'm running on 3 instead of all 4? I want to save gas"

:laugh:


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> My friend asked me: "Can I break one of my cylinders so I'm running on 3 instead of all 4? I want to save gas"
> 
> :laugh:


Lol


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

If I want an oil catch can, which one is best? I'm looking for longevity + performance with a nice price. Currently looking at the 42DD Stealth


----------



## michealtheworm (Jan 28, 2012)

I have on again... If i got a KO4 for my 180q, Would it be a direct bolt on? Would everything i have fit right on to it? (Down pipe and Inter cooler hoses) I know i would need a new Intake hose, fpr 4bar, MAF housing, programing, fuel injectors. Is there anything else i'm missing? thanks


----------



## chaldowhiteboy (Jun 14, 2010)

Does anyone know how you can tell if my 2000 180Q has the recall control arms or not without having to take them out? I'm really hoping it doesn't because it would be nice to just replace the bushings inside of them and not have to put extra money into defcons like I would if they were recalled.


----------



## miller6323 (May 13, 2012)

any opinion on what the best oil is to use in my 180? i have had oil problems in the past with low oil pressure... so keep that in mind pls.


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Castrol or Mobil 1 are the best choices


----------



## miller6323 (May 13, 2012)

PLAYED TT said:


> Castrol or Mobil 1 are the best choices


what weight would you reccomend though? im in Yuma AZ and the temperature is going to be over 100 for the next few months


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

I would recommend Amsoil instead. Mobil1 is not even a true synthetic to me anymore :thumbdown:


----------



## miller6323 (May 13, 2012)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> I would recommend Amsoil instead. Mobil1 is not even a true synthetic to me anymore :thumbdown:


weight?


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> I would recommend Amsoil instead. Mobil1 is not even a true synthetic to me anymore :thumbdown:


Mr race car driver over here


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

I have a cone intake now. I've seen them with metal around the battery side and down under the cone. Is this a heat shield or splash guard? Should I fabricate one for mine?


----------



## Dowski12 (Nov 2, 2011)

> If I want an oil catch can, which one is best? I'm looking for longevity + performance with a nice price. Currently looking at the 42DD Stealth


Make your own catch can, tons cheaper. I could make you one for about $27 out of a stainless steel water bottle.










Mine happens to be powder coated black now, so a little more expensive, but the blue is pretty good lookin.


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Dowski12 said:


> Make your own catch can, tons cheaper. I could make you one for about $27 out of a stainless steel water bottle.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm thinking about going this route since I can see when it's full and just replace the cheap filter

http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/engine-performance/136060-diy-make-your-own-catch-can-25-a.html


----------



## misternoob (Oct 25, 2009)

I just want to confirm that the downpipe for the 180q and 180FWD are completely different. 

A friend of a friend of friend etc has a dirt cheap new 42DD downpipe for a 180FWD. I'm really hoping that the difference is neglible but I know its not :banghead:


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

misternoob said:


> I just want to confirm that the downpipe for the 180q and 180FWD are completely different.
> 
> A friend of a friend of friend etc has a dirt cheap new 42DD downpipe for a 180FWD. I'm really hoping that the difference is neglible but I know its not :banghead:


 You're right, it's not going to work.


----------



## misternoob (Oct 25, 2009)

20v master said:


> You're right, it's not going to work.


 Awesome . Then I'm sure someone could make use this - http://www.ebay.com/itm/280898644473?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619 

Correction: It is not a friend of a friend who is selling it.


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Can someone tell me what am i missing here? 
Could this also cause the car to stall?


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

misternoob said:


> I just want to confirm that the downpipe for the 180q and 180FWD are completely different.
> 
> A friend of a friend of friend etc has a dirt cheap new 42DD downpipe for a 180FWD. I'm really hoping that the difference is neglible but I know its not :banghead:


 You can make it work.. 
What you gotta do is just cut and weld some parts :thumbup: 
Thats what I did not my TT


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Mantvis said:


> Can someone tell me what am i missing here?
> Could this also cause the car to stall?


 Anyone wanna help 225 noob?


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Throw a grenade in that engine bay and start over? Or just power wash the **** out of it.


----------



## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Does anyone know the trick to popping off the defroster vents above the dash? The skinny curved ones with small speaker and air vents. 

I got the vent pod to go there and def dont want to break the original.


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

Would it be safe, structurally, to cut out the center round section of the spare tire well? If braced while cutting, and properly welded, would this cause a flaw in the rear structure?


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Forty-six and 2 said:


> Would it be safe, structurally, to cut out the center round section of the spare tire well? If braced while cutting, and properly welded, would this cause a flaw in the rear structure?


 Why? Why? Why?


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

I will be using dual compressor, and would like to move the battery to the back as well. I'd like to have it all fit under the false floor. I don't want to use a smaller battery, because of the charging issues that come with them.


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

PLAYED TT said:


> Throw a grenade in that engine bay and start over? Or just power wash the **** out of it.


 Was this for me, or for someone eles?


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Mantvis said:


> Was this for me, or for someone eles?


 You


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Forty-six and 2 said:


> Would it be safe, structurally, to cut out the center round section of the spare tire well? If braced while cutting, and properly welded, would this cause a flaw in the rear structure?


 Don't cut it. Uni body cars don't like being cut up


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

PLAYED TT said:


> Don't cut it. Uni body cars don't like being cut up


 Amen!


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

I've always wanted to cut out just the top of the center section and install a sub there...


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Are these too loud/powerful for my tiny car? I wanted to put them in place of my rear "seats" 

http://www.amazon.com/Package-Kfc-w2513ps-Subwoofer-Kac-8105d-Amplifier/dp/B0052QTVGG


----------



## benocehcap (Apr 2, 2007)

Currancchs said:


> Just use the windshield washer as normal with the headlights on.
> 
> Sent from my PG06100 using Tapatalk


 Did that nothing happen:what: 
now, what is broken?:laugh:


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> Are these too loud/powerful for my tiny car? I wanted to put them in place of my rear "seats"
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Package-Kfc-w2513ps-Subwoofer-Kac-8105d-Amplifier/dp/B0052QTVGG


 Heres my set up. 2 rockford fosgate 15inch P1s, with a custom LiveWire AMP


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Mantvis said:


> Can someone tell me what am i missing here?
> Could this also cause the car to stall?


 So can anyone tell me what am i missing? 
Just bought the car, and i dont have the car yet. So i cant clean it up... :facepalm: 
The TT is 225hp 2001 with 29k miles!


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Well nothing goes there so no. But a detailed close up would help


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Mantvis said:


> Heres my set up. 2 rockford fosgate 15inch P1s, with a custom LiveWire AMP


 Gee zuss christ!!


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Mantvis said:


> So can anyone tell me what am i missing?
> Just bought the car, and i dont have the car yet. So i cant clean it up... :facepalm:
> The TT is 225hp 2001 with 29k miles!


 What did you end up getting it for? Any idea the extent of the flood damage? Have you realized that is an APR stage 3 kit installed to the car yet?


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> Gee zuss christ!!


 Thats what i say every time i listen to dubstep :thumbup:


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

20v master said:


> What did you end up getting it for? Any idea the extent of the flood damage? Have you realized that is an APR stage 3 kit installed to the car yet?


 APR stage 3?!?!  

As far as i could see there was about 2 inches of water inside the car. I can tell by the marks on the carpet. 

Got it for 5k shipped to my door. Should be coming in on Wednesday


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Mantvis said:


> APR stage 3?!?!
> 
> As far as i could see there was about 2 inches of water inside the car. I can tell by the marks on the carpet.
> 
> Got it for 5k shipped to my door. Should be coming in on Wednesday


 I'm assuming. You can tell from all that piping that isn't OEM and the inlet hose off the airbox that says APR on it. You may have gotten a DEAL-I-O! :laugh: Hopefully the motor isn't hydrolocked.


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

20v master said:


> I'm assuming. You can tell from all that piping that isn't OEM and the inlet hose off the airbox that says APR on it. You may have gotten a DEAL-I-O! :laugh: Hopefully the motor isn't hydrolocked.


 Also it does have different exhaust system, 3 gauges inside the car. And also an oil radiator in the front. 
It said that the car did start so i think its not hydrolocked.


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

so i got some good news. 

This car is mine :beer: 
http://www.goapr.com/media/photos/72157608705853136/


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

I really hope this works out, but let me get this straight...you bought a car with flood damage why?


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Haha. That car? I literally used to race it in my GTI (and win). :laugh: I don't know if I buy the mileage though. Either way, it was a steal at that price. Unwrecked, and plenty of good mods to part out.


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

PLAYED TT said:


> I really hope this works out, but let me get this straight...you bought a car with flood damage why?


 Why not? My other TT is a salavge too. So why not save onother TT? Soon theyll be extinct...


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

20v master said:


> Haha. That car? I literally used to race it in my GTI (and win). :laugh: I don't know if I buy the mileage though. Either way, it was a steal at that price. Unwrecked, and plenty of good mods to part out.


 Yeah i agree the mileage is kinda too low lol 
Do you know the guy maybe buy any chance? 
I know that his name is Greg, but thats about it. 
I hope that your GTI was a stage 3 then! ;D


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Mantvis said:


> Yeah i agree the mileage is kinda too low lol
> Do you know the guy maybe buy any chance?
> I know that his name is Greg, but thats about it.
> I hope that your GTI was a stage 3 then! ;D


 Yeah, Greg, forget his last name. He went into aviation after leaving APR. And yes, I was on a GT30R. Even FWD I was able to beat the TT, but he wasn't that great of a driver. Last I heard of the car, it was in a million pieces, so somebody put it back together. Not sure how it ended up in Louisiana though.


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

20v master said:


> Yeah, Greg, forget his last name. He went into aviation after leaving APR. And yes, I was on a GT30R. Even FWD I was able to beat the TT, but he wasn't that great of a driver. Last I heard of the car, it was in a million pieces, so somebody put it back together. Not sure how it ended up in Louisiana though.


 You know why it was in pieces? 
Sorry for questionning you, but id like to find out about the car as much as i can.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Mantvis said:


> Why not? My other TT is a salavge too. So why not save onother TT? Soon theyll be extinct...


 Works for me haha. It would just scare me with electrical gremlins and such.


----------



## scoTT. (Jul 18, 2011)

im embarrassed to even post this but my car didnt come with books but..how do you change the time and date on the dash?


----------



## EuroSpic_TT (Apr 24, 2012)

scoTT. said:


> im embarrassed to even post this but my car didnt come with books but..how do you change the time and date on the dash?


 pull the knob on the gauge


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Mantvis said:


> Why not? My other TT is a salavge too. So why not save onother TT? Soon theyll be extinct...


 Best quote I've ever seen. The car looks like a steal, too. Hope it works fine and there aren't any intermittent issues with it. Those are hard to find and solve :beer::beer::beer: 

Back to stupid questions please! opcorn: 


_EDIT:_ 

What do control arms do? I see people upgrading them but have no idea what they're for. I'm guessing something along the lines of rigidity for steering.


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

In relevance to this post: 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...sat-Saloon-BlueMotion&p=77887886#post77887886 

Does anyone know if a 1.6l TDI engine could fit in a TT bay? That is some SERIOUS mpg


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

How do i change program settings from APR on a TT? 
My immobilizer is on, what could cause it? Is there a way to bypass it?


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> What do control arms do? I see people upgrading them but have no idea what they're for. I'm guessing something along the lines of rigidity for steering.


 Used to adjust camber and toe in the rear when lowering and the fronts can be upgraded via bushings/inserts/Defcons to improve steering feel. 

Almost forgot, there's the new tubular front control arms that save weight and have rod ends instead of bushings for less deflection motion.


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> In relevance to this post:
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...sat-Saloon-BlueMotion&p=77887886#post77887886
> 
> Does anyone know if a 1.6l TDI engine could fit in a TT bay? That is some SERIOUS mpg


 Yeah people have TDI swaps google it


----------



## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

how do you program the home link,


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Audiguy84 said:


> how do you program the home link,


 try these instructions. since homelink is not audi exclusive, they should work. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3JC3DWluQ6U 

bob


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

My immobilizer light is blinking, the car seems to run with out the problem. But the car is missing power steering. 
Where should i check first?


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Which is the best rubber to put on your car? I tend to beat on mine and need something that'll keep from wearing out fast, but I live in Orlando so it rains a lot. My longest tire so far were KUHMO Ecstas I wanna say about 20k, but I tried some Falkens that lasted 10k, and the Pole Positions I have one now........ well, the rears are perfect but the front are worn down to where I feel slipage in the rain down the highway even at 50mph. Not even a full 2k miles on these :banghead: 


I'm going to take it easier on the corners to keep the next set's lifespan high, but I'd like the most grip on wet/dry that I can get for a long-lasting tire


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

So the turbo has some shaft play, and the shop says that its leaking boost. Would this cause to misfire the cylinders with out throwing CEL?


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

I am wondering if anyone can confirm some issues I am having. My TT will start up and run without an issue, no misfires or any type of stumbles. Then it will not start at all. It will crank, and seems to get fuel. I can smell it, so that's my assumption. It seems like it has no spark. I would find it hard to believe that all the coil packs could go out at once. It would seem if it were a coil problem, it would miss at times while driving, and start with a miss. This makes me think its the crank position sensor. Anyone come across a similar problem before?


I have ordered the ie coil adapters and tsi coils, as well as a new crank position sensor. I am just trying to confirm that these will solve the issue. I also have a fuel filter to throw in just incase.


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Forty-six and 2 said:


> I am wondering if anyone can confirm some issues I am having. My TT will start up and run without an issue, no misfires or any type of stumbles. Then it will not start at all. It will crank, and seems to get fuel. I can smell it, so that's my assumption. It seems like it has no spark. I would find it hard to believe that all the coil packs could go out at once. It would seem if it were a coil problem, it would miss at times while driving, and start with a miss. This makes me think its the crank position sensor. Anyone come across a similar problem before?
> 
> 
> I have ordered the ie coil adapters and tsi coils, as well as a new crank position sensor. I am just trying to confirm that these will solve the issue. I also have a fuel filter to throw in just incase.


If you're smelling fuel, I'd be more concerned with fuel pump/clogged fuel filter, not coil. Just a thought. IME, bad coils almost always throw codes and almost NEVER all go out at once without at least one or two cylinders throwing codes.


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Where can i find crank shaft sensor?


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

TTC2k5 said:


> If you're smelling fuel, I'd be more concerned with fuel pump/clogged fuel filter, not coil. Just a thought. IME, bad coils almost always throw codes and almost NEVER all go out at once without at least one or two cylinders throwing codes.


The reason I am leaning toward spark issue, is because the smell of fuel would make me believe it is getting it. Without a stumble while driving would lead me to believe there isn't an issue with the flow at all. The pump primes when the key is turned to the on position, so it definitely works. Since it doesn't seem to be sparking at all, I would think it has an intermittent crank position problem. The more I think about how it never has an issue while driving, had me rethinking that theory, and brings me to the immobilizer... I know nothing about it, other than its basic duties of keeping the motor from running without the coded key. 

I went back to where I left the car, to try to get it running, and it started with the first bump of the key. The display on the cluster was messed up for a second. It was all red, then faded to normal with lines all throughout it. Does the immobilizer have anything to do with the cluster? I do have a cel on at the moment. I believe it is from an immo issue, but I haven't had it checked yet.



Mantvis said:


> Where can i find crank shaft sensor?


If you are looking to buy one, they can be found on ebay. You have to be sure that they work with the quattro models. I believe they have two different ones for TT's. If you are looking to change it, it is behind the oil filter near the transmission. Atleast that is the location for other vw/Audi 4 cylinders.


----------



## Letter K (Jan 8, 2011)

i have two stupid questions:

1. why do people choose a front mount over two side mounts....y u no tyrol?  (225)

2.where can i get a APR turbo manifold.....since they are not available on the site....i dont see them


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Also stupid stupid question. 

Why there is a telephone like landline connection (female) on passenger side where the cup holders are


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Mantvis said:


> Also stupid stupid question.
> 
> Why there is a telephone like landline connection (female) on passenger side where the cup holders are


so you could plug in the optional motorola phone: 2000-01.

cheers


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

TTC2k5 said:


> so you could plug in the optional motorola phone: 2000-01.
> 
> cheers


Now thats what i call technology! :laugh:


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Dated technology. Call me crazy but I still want to find one of the phone holders and mod it to hold my iPhone. Bob would that be possible?


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

PLAYED TT said:


> Dated technology. Call me crazy but I still want to find one of the phone holders and mod it to hold my iPhone. Bob would that be possible?


James,

sure is. I use mine for my HTC shown here before I mounted my HTC. 



















See the black rectangular box on top. It is two piece and removable. but, I just added one of those magnetic phone holders (peel and stick), that you find on flea bay for about $5, to the box and then attached the magnetic holder's metal plate to the back of my HTC rubber case. 

My buddy sold his TT and *his phone holder is in my garage*. If you want it, I'll send him a quick txt for a price. His does not have the top part of rectangular black box but rather a flat plate covering the bottom portion of the box. It is in near original condition.

I probably should have removed the top of mine and just used a flat plate too. Cleaner look.

b.


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Yeah send him a text and see what he says. Thanks


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

PLAYED TT said:


> Yeah send him a text and see what he says. Thanks


k.


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

how do i by pass N249?


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Mantvis said:


> how do i by pass N249?


http://uk-mkvs.net/forums/t/265883.aspx
Here ya go!


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Mantvis said:


> http://uk-mkvs.net/forums/t/265883.aspx
> Here ya go!


Thanks man that was helpfull :thumbup:

LOOOL


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Why would you WANT to bypass N249? Why would anyone?? I'd rather go into limp mode and know something is wrong than to keep driving my car unaware there's an issue.


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> Why would you WANT to bypass N249? Why would anyone?? I'd rather go into limp mode and know something is wrong than to keep driving my car unaware there's an issue.


On some set up might have better throttle respnse, also a cleaner head..
If it performs the same way it will have to go back in.


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

What should I gap my plugs to with the tsi coils? Its a stock 225. Also what are the best plus to use?


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

I always use the OEM plugs but I'm not chipped. once you're chipped go for something else (someone can chime in on the type though)


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Neb said:


> I always use the OEM plugs but I'm not chipped. once you're chipped go for something else (someone can chime in on the type though)


Folks usually going 1 level cooler after you've chipped. I still have my OME plugs and have been chipped for about 4 months with no misfires etc. But, when it comes time to change, I'll probably go cooler too.

cheers.


----------



## brendan_TT (Jul 12, 2012)

What is the purpose of installing an aftermarket coil over kit. (Go easy on me, I'm new to this ****)


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

brendan_TT said:


> What is the purpose of installing an aftermarket coil over kit. (Go easy on me, I'm new to this ****)


coil over like suspension?
If so, better handling and also you can adjust the ride height. That way you can go looow

If you mean a coilpack, then it will get you a better spark. Meaning if your chiped, it will get you better idle, no misfires and any b.s. like that


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

What am i missing here? this is drivers side, little compartment to change rear light bulbs.
This is 01 AWD 225hp, and my 03 FWD doesnt have anything like this, only the alarm horn in there. So what am i missing?


----------



## marko.f (Dec 28, 2010)

quick question, im going to be looking to buy a TT very soon, any issues to look for other then the rusting rails?

thanks


----------



## brendan_TT (Jul 12, 2012)

Mantvis said:


> coil over like suspension?
> If so, better handling and also you can adjust the ride height. That way you can go looow
> 
> If you mean a coilpack, then it will get you a better spark. Meaning if your chiped, it will get you better idle, no misfires and any b.s. like that


Ok, I did a little bit of on line reading about coil overs. Basically, they explained it as just being a spring over a shock combination. Used in the Macpherson strut style suspension.

So my new question is: What is the advantage of going LOW? Is it just for looks? Is it better handling? And when you go LOW, don't you start to run into clearances with tires ect?

I've never been a fan of low sitting cars. (for looks anyway) I'm asking these questions because down the road a bit, I may want to put in a better suspension. And also wheels, and I'm not sure if the two of them come into play with each other as to what I need.


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

being low is just for looks, but if you lower the car just a bit to a certain point it will help the handling of the car.
And yes thats when rubbing becomes and issue, so you have to play with wheel offset to make it tuck in nicely.


----------



## brendan_TT (Jul 12, 2012)

Mantvis said:


> being low is just for looks, but if you lower the car just a bit to a certain point it will help the handling of the car.
> And yes thats when rubbing becomes and issue, so you have to play with wheel offset to make it tuck in nicely.


So what you are saying is that if you lower the car, you need to have the wheels tuck in towards the inside of the car? Not outwards where it could hit the wheel well lip of the body? Makes sense. 

I actually like the look of the tires just sitting a bit outward of the wheel well. Not a lot where you would need an extended flare, but just a lil bit. Am I an idiot for thinking like this? I just like that look.
Again, please go easy on me. I'm new to all this, and all ears from you guys that know a whole lot more then I do. I don't mind being Grasshopper!!


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

brendan_TT said:


> So what you are saying is that if you lower the car, you need to have the wheels tuck in towards the inside of the car? Not outwards where it could hit the wheel well lip of the body? Makes sense.
> 
> I actually like the look of the tires just sitting a bit outward of the wheel well. Not a lot where you would need an extended flare, but just a lil bit. Am I an idiot for thinking like this? I just like that look.
> Again, please go easy on me. I'm new to all this, and all ears from you guys that know a whole lot more then I do. I don't mind being Grasshopper!!


Yes you got it right.
I hope you dont like this, just look at his front fender...









but this is duable









Read Thism will help you abit
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...tched-tires-and-poke**-but-were-afraid-to-ask


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

This guy thinks the streatched/poked look is smashing on the TT:











This guy thinks it looks like ass:










But it's your car so mod it the way that suits you best. When you're done, these guys ^^^ will be happy to give their opinion.

cheers.


----------



## brendan_TT (Jul 12, 2012)

TTC2k5 said:


> This guy thinks the streatched/poked look is smashing on the TT:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




LOL! I'm trying to get my MOJO in balance Baby!


----------



## nilreb (Mar 17, 2012)

Found this exposed gear while checking my lower breather hose. Any idea what this is and where to buy the cover? 



__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

^^^ Its the flywheel's starter ring. The trans may have never had a cover for the hole. Its no big deal to be open.:thumbup:


I am wondering what its under the spare tie hump? I read that some VW's have the evap system hidden under there. Idon't want to remove it, but will need to either weld to it or drill holes for mounting brackets for some air ride parts. I would also like to mount my battery in the rear portion of it, but need two inches or so of extra room to fit it. If there isn't anything inside of it, I will cut a small portion of it out to give me the extra room.


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Forty-six and 2 said:


> ^^^ Its the flywheel's starter ring. The trans may have never had a cover for the hole. Its no big deal to be open.:thumbup:
> 
> 
> I am wondering what its under the spare tie hump? I read that some VW's have the evap system hidden under there. Idon't want to remove it, but will need to either weld to it or drill holes for mounting brackets for some air ride parts. I would also like to mount my battery in the rear portion of it, but need two inches or so of extra room to fit it. If there isn't anything inside of it, I will cut a small portion of it out to give me the extra room.


They Make a cover. ECS sells it: http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MKI-Quattro-225HP/Drivetrain/Transmission/ES7678/

I RTV'd mine in- they tend to come out otherwise.

Yep. Part of the evap system:


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

Thanks for the quick rely.:beer: Any pictures or diagrams of it mounted by chance?


Edit: I honestly should just pick up a Braille battery. The cold cracking amps are pretty low on the small ones, doors anyone have an experience with one? I understand that it may need a charge if leaving it sitting for a while, but my main concern its how it will perform in the winter months.


----------



## nilreb (Mar 17, 2012)

Thanks


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

nilreb, I saw the same on my car while replacing my PCV. I freaked out and took it over to my mechanic. He just laughed at said it's a check window for doing the timing. No need to have a cover over it, but you can if you really want.:thumbup:


----------



## nilreb (Mar 17, 2012)

Thanks chuck


----------



## jaxtt (Jul 17, 2012)

*Black carpet for TT*

I searched and came up with very little information. I'd like to make a rear hatch floor cover out of the same material my interior and floor mats are made of (black). Any ideas where to find it?


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

I asked in a a different thread, but I didn't want jack the thread with a discussion.

Should the upper or lower when adding an adjustable ca set?

My thoughts are the upper, due to the -camber gain when lowering the car. when considering suspension geometry, the upper would benefit more by being able to be adjusted outward to correct the -gain. The lower would just get maxed out sooner when trying to correct the camber by pulling it inward.


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Forty-six and 2 said:


> I asked in a a different thread, but I didn't want jack the thread with a discussion.
> 
> Should the upper or lower when adding an adjustable ca set?
> 
> My thoughts are the upper, due to the -camber gain when lowering the car. when considering suspension geometry, the upper would benefit more by being able to be adjusted outward to correct the -gain. The lower would just get maxed out sooner when trying to correct the camber by pulling it inward.


Lowers are done first generally speaking.

Also I had a Deka battery (12 lbs.) Braile equivalent. I ran it all Winter with no issues, however, if I left the car in the garage all weekend and went to start it Monday - no go. You're going to need a battery tender solution for more than two days of not driving. I got rid of it and went back to the stock battery.


----------



## Morio (Feb 16, 1999)

TTC2k5 said:


> James,
> 
> sure is. I use mine for my HTC shown here before I mounted my HTC.
> 
> ...



I so need this!!!! if not sold let me know price:wave:


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

So swapping the lowers will take care of any camber correction without maxing them out? I would rather not find out I need a second set right now. 

Thanks fort the battery info. I may still pick one up, along with a tender too. Do you happen to remember which model you used, or have a link. I have a intake project that I need the extra room up front.


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Forty-six and 2 said:


> So swapping the lowers will take care of any camber correction without maxing them out? I would rather not find out I need a second set right now.
> 
> Thanks fort the battery info. I may still pick one up, along with a tender too. Do you happen to remember which model you used, or have a link. I have a intake project that I need the extra room up front.


Yeah lowers will work for you. If you want I have some Kmac bushings already in arms if you want them. I'm lazy and haven't gotten around to putting them for sale.

Battery: http://www.etx20l.com/

Pretty sure that was it.


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

Thanks.:beer:

What are you asking for them?


----------



## chaldowhiteboy (Jun 14, 2010)

does anyone know the weight of the stock tt seats?


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

chaldowhiteboy said:


> does anyone know the weight of the stock tt seats?


 they are approx 50lbs each (seat plus runners)


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Mantvis said:


> they are approx 50lbs each (seat plus runners)


 this ^^^. 

cheers


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

My vacuum lines are all pretty brittle and should be replace soon. I have always been pretty terrible at guess line size, so am wondering if anyone could help me out with the diameter/s of the lines connected to the junk on the vc? I plan to relocate all of that mess when I start replacing the lines. Would a vacuum manifold be of much help, or just skip it? I am thinking of using silicone hose, unless anyone could give me a reason to stay away from it.


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Forty-six and 2 said:


> My vacuum lines are all pretty brittle and should be replace soon. I have always been pretty terrible at guess line size, so am wondering if anyone could help me out with the diameter/s of the lines connected to the junk on the vc? I plan to relocate all of that mess when I start replacing the lines. Would a vacuum manifold be of much help, or just skip it? I am thinking of using silicone hose, unless anyone could give me a reason to stay away from it.


 
See pic at this link. I'll be following it as i replace mine with silicone in a couple of weekends: 


http://forums.quattroworld.com/tt/msgs/86467.phtml 

cheers


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

Perfect! Thank you.:beer:


----------



## brendan_TT (Jul 12, 2012)

Ok, wheel question here. 
Next spring, I'd like to throw on a set of 18" wheels. Now when you go with a bigger wheel, with the bigger wheel and tire, the circumference is now larger. Wont this effect the speedo and odo reading? 
Meaning it will not read accurate. 

If so, how do you correct for this? Sry, I been into motorcycles for the longest time, and now just getting into the sport car world.


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

brendan_TT said:


> Ok, wheel question here.
> Next spring, I'd like to throw on a set of 18" wheels. Now when you go with a bigger wheel, with the bigger wheel and tire, the circumference is now larger. Wont this effect the speedo and odo reading?
> Meaning it will not read accurate.
> 
> If so, how do you correct for this? Sry, I been into motorcycles for the longest time, and now just getting into the sport car world.


 the way to avoid this is to use a smaller aspect ratio when you increase wheel size. so, using the OEM sizes for both wheels: OEM 225/45-17 ( 225 x .45 = 101.25 corresponds to a an OEM 225/40-18 (225 x .4 = 90) . 

Basically, as the wheel radius goes up (in this case 0.5 inch or 12.7mm), the tire side wall goes down (101.25 - 90 = 11.25mm). that difference (12.7 - 11.25mm = 1.45mm) is negligible. 

cheers.


----------



## brendan_TT (Jul 12, 2012)

TTC2k5 said:


> the way to avoid this is to use a smaller aspect ratio when you increase wheel size. so, using the OEM sizes for both wheels: OEM 225/45-17 ( 225 x .45 = 101.25 corresponds to a an OEM 225/40-18 (225 x .4 = 90) .
> 
> Basically, as the wheel radius goes up (in this case 0.5 inch or 12.7mm), the tire side wall goes down (101.25 - 90 = 11.25mm). that difference (12.7 - 11.25mm = 1.45mm) is negligible.
> 
> cheers.


 
Thanks for the quick response. So just to be clear here, when you run a bigger diameter rim, you want to get a lower profile (sidewall height) tire, so that you are as close to the OEM tire circumference? 

And to answer my other question, if you didn't lower the sidewall height and ran a bigger rim, it would in fact have an effect on your speed and odometer reading? 
Again, just want to be clear. 


thanks for all the help, you guys are great! :thumbup:


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

brendan_TT said:


> Thanks for the quick response. So just to be clear here, when you run a bigger diameter rim, you want to get a lower profile (sidewall height) tire, so that you are as close to the OEM tire circumference?
> 
> And to answer my other question, if you didn't lower the sidewall height and ran a bigger rim, it would in fact have an effect on your speed and odometer reading?
> Again, just want to be clear.
> ...


 1. yes. 
2. yes. 

cheers.


----------



## brendan_TT (Jul 12, 2012)

TTC2k5 said:


> 1. yes.
> 2. yes.
> 
> cheers.


 
Thank you Sir!


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

:beer::thumbup:


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

Has anyone seen or have made a metal turbo inlet tube? I am about to start on a custom intake project, and would like to reroute the inlet lower. It would also be nice to ditch anything unnecessary that it connecting to it, and move the dv. I would appreciate any input or pictures.


----------



## Letter K (Jan 8, 2011)

is there a 5x112 conversion kit? i dont feel like running 20mm adapters.


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Letter K said:


> is there a 5x112 conversion kit? i dont feel like running 20mm adapters.


 what? do you mean some type of 5 x 112 hub that directly bolts on so you don't need 5 x100 to 5 112 adaptors.? if so, it would be news to me. if there is, it can't be cost effective.


----------



## Letter K (Jan 8, 2011)

TTC2k5 said:


> what? do you mean some type of 5 x 112 hub that directly bolts on so you don't need 5 x100 to 5 112 adaptors.? if so, it would be news to me. if there is, it can't be cost effective.


 yeah since hartmann decided to drop 99% of their 5x100 line and everything seems to be moving to 5x112 as a mainstream.....i feel forced to do some sort of spindle swap.


----------



## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

1. Does anyone know typical boosted air temperatures at the manifold? VagCom can record this? 

2. We know cooler air = better ignition so what would be a desirable lower air temp at manifold? 5, 10, 20 degrees cooler? How much cooler are these temps with FMIC? 

3. What's typical Air Mass flow rates through the turbo/IC system? (Basically how much air goes through the turbo charge pipes before the intake manifold at nominal full boost - say 12psi - yeah I know air is compressible and actual rates depend on pressure and temperature). MAF readings could also help. 

Thanks!:beer:


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Converted2VW said:


> 1. Does anyone know typical boosted air temperatures at the manifold? VagCom can record this?
> 
> 2. We know cooler air = better ignition so what would be a desirable lower air temp at manifold? 5, 10, 20 degrees cooler? How much cooler are these temps with FMIC?
> 
> ...


 1. There is no typical. Variables like ambient temp, intercooler efficiency, manifold insulation aka phenolic spacers, intake track restrictions etc. play a big role in what will be seen at the manifold. Good news is, all of that is recorded by the IAT sensor conveniently located at manifold's entrance. 

2. Colder is better! Not only from a ignition timing perspective, but also colder air is denser with far more oxygen molecules. Now with that said, there is a point where cooler IAT won't net you any additional timing because the ECU is using a map as a reference to pull timing, not necessarily add timing. To really take advantage of really colder air, you need to alter that map to give more timing advance. Typically a good FMIC will get IAT within a 5-10* of ambient and won't heat soak easily at the same time. Limitations of a big FMIC is that they impede airflow to the radiator (you don't want to improve air temp at the expense of water temp because the ECU pulls timing based on coolant temp as well). Another limitation of a FMIC, and any air to air heat exchangers for that matter, is that they rely on ambient airflow to remove heat. No airflow and heat starts to build up and you can obviously never go below ambient (which could be quite high sometimes). 

3. This one is really a technical question that almost do not belong with stupid questions. Flow rates through a turbo is usually calculated in CFM and depend on several factors. Pre and Post turbo, I like to look at things in terms restrictions or pressure drop, any additional inch of water from one point to another indicates airflow restrictions. Manifold and head goes back CFM flowed again and needs a lot of brain power to calculate or even explain. Conveniently, the mass air sensor (MAF) can give an indication of how things are going throughout. Increase airflow through the charge pipes or IC and it'll show on the MAF, decrease restrictions in the TIP and it'll show at the MAF, improve airflow at the manifold, do some head work or a big port and it will show on the MAF. So the MAF can actually be used as a real time dyno to record any improvement to the system. With that said, typical g/s recorded on a KO4 is under 200 g/s. With a lot of effort, I get my car to see around 245-248 g/s with almost all the restrictions out of the way. It is not unusual for BT cars that still run a MAF to see 300+ g/s, enough to warrant a housing upgrade to de-scale the sensor so the sensor limit is not reached.


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

Letter K said:


> yeah since hartmann decided to drop 99% of their 5x100 line and everything seems to be moving to 5x112 as a mainstream.....i feel forced to do some sort of spindle swap.


 what's wrong with adapters? If it's a safety thing you're worried about they're totally fine on that front. (maybe if you're tracking I wouldn't run them though)


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Well it's possible but a lot of money. And fwiw I would swap to 5x114.3 before any other size. Way more options


----------



## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> 1. There is no typical. Variables like ambient temp, intercooler efficiency, manifold insulation aka phenolic spacers, intake track restrictions etc. play a big role in what will be seen at the manifold. Good news is, all of that is recorded by the IAT sensor conveniently located at manifold's entrance.
> 
> 2. Colder is better! Not only from a ignition timing perspective, but also colder air is denser with far more oxygen molecules. Now with that said, there is a point where cooler IAT won't net you any additional timing because the ECU is using a map as a reference to pull timing, not necessarily add timing. To really take advantage of really colder air, you need to alter that map to give more timing advance. Typically a good FMIC will get IAT within a 5-10* of ambient and won't heat soak easily at the same time. Limitations of a big FMIC is that they impede airflow to the radiator (you don't want to improve air temp at the expense of water temp because the ECU pulls timing based on coolant temp as well). Another limitation of a FMIC, and any air to air heat exchangers for that matter, is that they rely on ambient airflow to remove heat. No airflow and heat starts to build up and you can obviously never go below ambient (which could be quite high sometimes).
> 
> 3. This one is really a technical question that almost do not belong with stupid questions. Flow rates through a turbo is usually calculated in CFM and depend on several factors. Pre and Post turbo, I like to look at things in terms restrictions or pressure drop, any additional inch of water from one point to another indicates airflow restrictions. Manifold and head goes back CFM flowed again and needs a lot of brain power to calculate or even explain. Conveniently, the mass air sensor (MAF) can give an indication of how things are going throughout. Increase airflow through the charge pipes or IC and it'll show on the MAF, decrease restrictions in the TIP and it'll show at the MAF, improve airflow at the manifold, do some head work or a big port and it will show on the MAF. So the MAF can actually be used as a real time dyno to record any improvement to the system. With that said, typical g/s recorded on a KO4 is under 200 g/s. With a lot of effort, I get my car to see around 245-248 g/s with almost all the restrictions out of the way. It is not unusual for BT cars that still run a MAF to see 300+ g/s, enough to warrant a housing upgrade to de-scale the sensor so the sensor limit is not reached.


 Thanks for the answers MA! 

To put it short, I'm trying to come up with a way to cool the air down without swapping to Tyrol's SMICs or going into a FMIC. 

I just need to have a target temperature at the manifold to check on viability. 

I'll try and self learn vagcom to log temps and compare real life values with target temp values and see feasibility. 

Thx again!


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

*For those with Uni Stage 1+ :* 
Do you hold 20psi all the way through 2nd gear? I go up to 20psi and then it creeps down to 7-10psi the further I get in the gear. :sly:


----------



## SteveAngry (Jun 20, 2004)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> *For those with Uni Stage 1+ :*
> Do you hold 20psi all the way through 2nd gear? I go up to 20psi and then it creeps down to 7-10psi the further I get in the gear. :sly:


 Similar readings on my car. I have Uni 1+ on a 180hp with no boost leaks....yet. 

I've considered maybe getting a boost machine to see if I can get the boost to stay higher/consistant across the rev range. 

Steve


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> *For those with Uni Stage 1+ :*
> Do you hold 20psi all the way through 2nd gear? I go up to 20psi and then it creeps down to 7-10psi the further I get in the gear. :sly:


 Mine holds 20 all day long


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

SteveAngry said:


> Similar readings on my car. I have Uni 1+ on a 180hp with no boost leaks....yet.
> 
> I've considered maybe getting a boost machine to see if I can get the boost to stay higher/consistant across the rev range.
> 
> Steve


 You sir have a boost leak


----------



## SteveAngry (Jun 20, 2004)

Mantvis said:


> You sir have a boost leak


 Nah, just checked for boost leaks with my friends modshack leak tester. We did this after we installed silicone vac and boost hoses just in case we missed something. 

Also, if you read carefully, the question was about 2nd gear pulls. I hold fine in 3rd, 4th, etc and then it starts to taper off as normal. 

Steve


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

I hear a noise coming from my Forge Splitter. I think I need to adjust the spring stiffness in it to hold pressure better. 



Another question: 
Can I cut my break booster line near the firewall to add the air filter I have? Is there another approach to this? The more info the better :beer:


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

How big of a gap should I use with the tsi coil upgrade? Stock is .032.


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

So i got 225 APR Stage 3+ with the GT28rs in there 
What would be a good/best spark plug to use, also what gap should it have? 
Ive been looking around, but im not too sure. 
http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/...69_6179_10033_6182_6738_8887&products_id=4531 
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV--1.8T/Engine/Turbo/APR_Stage_3_Plus/ES8924/ 
http://www.amazon.com/NGK-PFR7B-Double-Platinum-Spark/dp/B001MU5JB2 

I have a feeling that the NGK PFR7B Double Platinum Spark Plug are the best that ive seen so far, for the gap should i have .28 or .32? 
I believe .32 is OEM


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Forty-six and 2 said:


> How big of a gap should I use with the tsi coil upgrade? Stock is .032.


 You want to have it at .40 :thumbup:


----------



## 3.1415 (Jun 15, 2009)

*non-recall TT's*

I have a non-recall modded TT, purchased from the 1st owner, with documentation from Audi offering the "updates", and including letters he and his wife sent Audi USA and the dealer asking they they quit bugging him about this- he was happy with the car as it is. 

Anyone know how many FWD TT's survived the recall undamaged? Any web sites, forums, or threads about these cars? Any info on autocrossing this car? 

Thanks- 

Dave


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

Mantvis said:


> You want to have it at .40 :thumbup:


 Good. That's what I went with.:thumbup:


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

So i got 225 APR Stage 3+ with the GT28rs in there 
What would be a good/best spark plug to use, also what gap should it have? 
Ive been looking around, but im not too sure. 
http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/p...oducts_id=4531 
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...3_Plus/ES8924/ 
http://www.amazon.com/NGK-PFR7B-Doub.../dp/B001MU5JB2 

I have a feeling that the NGK PFR7B Double Platinum Spark Plug are the best that ive seen so far, for the gap should i have .28 or .32? 
I believe .32 is OEM


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

3.1415 said:


> I have a non-recall modded TT, purchased from the 1st owner, with documentation from Audi offering the "updates", and including letters he and his wife sent Audi USA and the dealer asking they they quit bugging him about this- he was happy with the car as it is.
> 
> Anyone know how many FWD TT's survived the recall undamaged? Any web sites, forums, or threads about these cars? Any info on autocrossing this car?
> 
> ...


 


If you want to autocross talk to Marcus. Don't do the updates unless you can still swap out your instrument cluster for free. That was a recall as well. The LCD panel goes bad in it (dont know why they used a cheap POS). 


As far as the other "updates" go, the spoiler and suspension is for safety at 100+ mph. The spoiler is NEEDED for those speeds, but the original suspension you have is considered better than the updates to it. Someone else may know more about this as well. 


Not sure how many numbers dodged the update.


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

I just put in NGK lazer platinum pfr6q. They were pretty expensive, at $14 a plug, but seem to be working well. They were set .028 out of the box, but I moved them up to .040. With the new coils, it seems to run a bit smoother than before. For some reason out is also getting to 16psi of boost now too. Before the change I would always peg out at 14.5. I'm not sure why there is a difference.


----------



## gearheadzTV (Sep 15, 2009)

What does the parking light activate on the headlights??? Front turn signals flash fine...Tails glow but nothing up front, is this normal? 
:facepalm: This is what happens when you haven't driven her at night in a looooong time...


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Parking lights and front turn signals are different bulbs. You need replacements for the parking lights, H6W bulbs. Cheapest place to get them aside from the internet is a Mercedes dealer, usually a third of the cost of an Audi/VW dealer


----------



## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

My dumb question is can I turn my interior fans of with out turning on my AC?
Or what temp does AC turn off and heat turn on at?


----------



## WiKKiDTT (Aug 13, 2009)

Just press Econ button



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

What is the sensor connected to the driver's rear lower control arm? Is it critical to have it placed in the exact position on the new adjustable arm?


----------



## Late__Apex (Dec 2, 2007)

Forty-six and 2 said:


> What is the sensor connected to the driver's rear lower control arm? Is it critical to have it placed in the exact position on the new adjustable arm?


Headlight level sensor. After messing with the sensor it can be re-calibrated with Vag-Com.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/inde...Control_(Adaptive_Light)#Headlight_Adjustment


----------



## nilreb (Mar 17, 2012)

is it advisable to buy a set of fuel pumps with 75K? 
engine dies on first attempt to start when fuel level is only a quarter.
it struggles on first attempt when fuel is less than half. 
starts fine if fuel is above half.


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Don't go under half a tank?


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## nilreb (Mar 17, 2012)

yes, but for SF to tahoe or socal trips, that's one too many stops at the pump.


----------



## jaxtt (Jul 17, 2012)

*Hose clamp question*

Glad there is a stupid question thread because I have one. Three weeks ago I took my car to get timing belt service done and on the way home the car started bucking and eventually stopped running. Looked under the hood and the large hose on the left (intake?) had become detached at the pipe. I used the only tool I had to tighten the clamp a screwdriver. Car started and ran fine again. When I got home I tightened the clamp up a little more with a socket. Yesterday gave car full throttle and had the same problem occur. Put hose back on and really snugged the clamp down. Two questions. 
Can you overtighten a hose clamp? 
And, is this an indication that I may need a new hose or clamp in that area?


----------



## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

jaxtt said:


> Glad there is a stupid question thread because I have one. Three weeks ago I took my car to get timing belt service done and on the way home the car started bucking and eventually stopped running. Looked under the hood and the large hose on the left (intake?) had become detached at the pipe. I used the only tool I had to tighten the clamp a screwdriver. Car started and ran fine again. When I got home I tightened the clamp up a little more with a socket. Yesterday gave car full throttle and had the same problem occur. Put hose back on and really snugged the clamp down. Two questions.
> Can you overtighten a hose clamp?
> And, is this an indication that I may need a new hose or clamp in that area?


Yes, you CAN over tighten a hose clamp. You will know when it's over tightened because it will make a popping sound when it does. At that point you will need a new clamp. You want to tighten it, but don't get crazy.


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Forge Splitter Valve VS Forge 008 
What are the cons and pros of those both valves? 
Dont tell me "get 008 because its better" tell me why one is better than the other. 

Thanks


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Mantvis said:


> Dont tell me "get 008 because its better" tell me why one is better than the other.
> 
> Thanks


 They both suck because they're both slow....and made by forge


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

PLAYED TT said:


> They both suck because they're both slow....and made by forge


 ok, so which one is not "slow" ?


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Talk to max or look up the comparison thread


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Chipped 180q, laser plat plugs, gap size for them? Used .28 for coppers so I'm guessing I can do the same for plats.

Thanks:beer:


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Mantvis said:


> Forge Splitter Valve VS Forge 008
> What are the cons and pros of those both valves?
> Dont tell me "get 008 because its better" tell me why one is better than the other.
> 
> Thanks


Forge splitter- operates as half a BOV. You do NOT want this.

The MadMax valve works really well on my car. You can check out his DIY and modify it yourself or PM him if you want it done professionally.


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> Forge splitter- operates as half a BOV. You do NOT want this.
> 
> The MadMax valve works really well on my car. You can check out his DIY and modify it yourself or PM him if you want it done professionally.



http://jonnyjetta.blogspot.com/2008/04/forge-splitter-valve-review.html

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3611722


That being said, if it's performance you're looking for the 007 or new 008 would probably be better..


----------



## WiKKiDTT (Aug 13, 2009)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> Chipped 180q, laser plat plugs, gap size for them? Used .28 for coppers so I'm guessing I can do the same for plats.
> 
> Thanks:beer:


Fück platinum! Copper or Iridium FTW!


----------



## WiKKiDTT (Aug 13, 2009)

I just bought the madmax dv to replace my forge 007. So I will sell it to you for $60.00 plus it comes with the spring kit and it was just serviced yesterday. Let me know


----------



## jaxtt (Jul 17, 2012)

*Turbo Guage*

I've owned turbo cars before but they never had a turbo guage. The TT I picked up has one mounted in the vent. I'm curious, exactly what should that guage be doing while I'm driving? I know it sounds like a stupid question so that's why I'm here.


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

jaxtt said:


> I've owned turbo cars before but they never had a turbo guage. The TT I picked up has one mounted in the vent. I'm curious, exactly what should that guage be doing while I'm driving? I know it sounds like a stupid question so that's why I'm here.


If your car is not chipped it should sit around 10PSI when WOT


----------



## jaxtt (Jul 17, 2012)

Mantvis said:


> If your car is not chipped it should sit around 10PSI when WOT


Sorry car is chipped with stage 1 GIAC. Turbo guage needle seems to bounce around ALOT and never seems to sit anywhere except below zero when at idle.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

jaxtt said:


> Sorry car is chipped with stage 1 GIAC. Turbo guage needle seems to bounce around ALOT and never seems to sit anywhere except below zero when at idle.


If it's rapid oscillation of the needle, it's the gauge that was not designed to work with the rather large and flexible vacuum line you're using. Most lower grade mechanical boost gauges, need a small ID rigid line to bring the boost signal. You can run a reducer by the gauge and use the rigid plastic synflex line supplied, or run a small restrictor pill in a regular vacuum hose (a better quality gauge would solve that too as they are capable of proper linearization of the pressure signal).


----------



## jaxtt (Jul 17, 2012)

Marcus you are speaking a different lanquage but I think I'm following you. The guage that came in the car is a Revo. Without intending to offend anyone would this fall into the "cheaper" bracket of guages? If so which of the solutions you mentioned would be the best of the bunch or should I just fork out for a better guage? Thanks a million for the great advise.


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

I have a Revo, its works with zero problems. I used the small rigid line it came with. I'm not sure if it fits in the "cheaper" gauge bracket. It did cost a little under $30.


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## WiKKiDTT (Aug 13, 2009)

im using a innovate motorsports gauge and mine does this it came with a restrictor pill built into the gauge. i will call tech support soon to see what they say.


----------



## slayerbizkit (Dec 28, 2008)

*How do I fix my fuel gauge problem?*

I have a 2002 Coupe TT Quattro and my fuel gauge doesn't read right. It'll read just fine until it drops to half, then it'll get stuck @ half until my tank is empty. Also, my car doesn't let me know when my fuel is low half the time (the beep and the picture display don't come on). 

I tried running seafoam in my gas tank, thinking that maybe the sending unit might be corroded but no luck. What else should I look at?


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

slayerbizkit said:


> I have a 2002 Coupe TT Quattro and my fuel gauge doesn't read right. It'll read just fine until it drops to half, then it'll get stuck @ half until my tank is empty. Also, my car doesn't let me know when my fuel is low half the time (the beep and the picture display don't come on).
> 
> I tried running seafoam in my gas tank, thinking that maybe the sending unit might be corroded but no luck. What else should I look at?


its the sensor in the tank right bu the fuel pump. If you take the rear seat out its under a passager "hole". Youll see it.


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Going into limp mode the past couple of days. I can't figure out why. Things I have done:

- changed oil and filter
- changed spark plugs to laser platinums gapped at .28
- removed big spring from wastegate actuator and used 1 small spring to hold it shut instead
- changed Forge Splitter to full DV


Now, it was after I took off the large spring and put the small spring on the wategate and changed the splitter to full DV (at the same time) that I first went into limp mode and spawned an error code for running too lean. I then put the Splitter back to 50/50 and the code hasn't come back at all today, but I did go into limp mode after I installed the inline particle filter between my hockey puck and TIP. Going to remove the small spring from the wastegate actuator tomorrow morning when the car is cold, but is there anything else I might try? I like not having wastegate creep. My car feels great with the spring..:banghead:


----------



## WiKKiDTT (Aug 13, 2009)

Changing your waste gate spring for sure. How much boost are you getting now?


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

With the spring I could spike to 22-23 range.


----------



## WiKKiDTT (Aug 13, 2009)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> With the spring I could spike to 22-23 range.


Was that before?

What are you running now?


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

WiKKiDTT said:


> Was that before?
> 
> What are you running now?



Before the spring I was at my flash's max of 20psi and never went over. It didn't feel like it got to 20psi as easily before the spring (creep)..... but like I said, I'm going to remove the small spring in the morning and test it again to see how it runs, then go back to full DV on my Forge splitter (this time without the wastegate mod) to see if I throw a code and run lean.


That's the part that I don't quite get.. the DV is to keep the air IN the system instead of eject it from the engine. The ECU calculates for all of the air to remain in the system and if you went full BOV on a 1.8t you would run rich every time you released pressure from the BOV.. so why am I running lean with a full DV and the wastegate mod and running normal as the splitter with the wastegate mod? My assumption is the Unitronics Stage 1+ tune has something to do with the wastegate mod not working correctly with my car, or I have a fault somewhere else in my system I don't know about.. which is why I'm posting all available data for the wizards to review
opcorn:


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

You are running lean because you did not control the boost ceiling with a boost controller. If you want to use the extra psi from the stiffer spring, you need to add fuel accordingly to keep the AFR in check.


----------



## WiKKiDTT (Aug 13, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> You are running lean because you did not control the boost ceiling with a boost controller. If you want to use the extra psi from the stiffer spring, you need to add fuel accordingly to keep the AFR in check.


This guy😎


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> You are running lean because you did not control the boost ceiling with a boost controller. If you want to use the extra psi from the stiffer spring, you need to add fuel accordingly to keep the AFR in check.



That's definitely not the issue. I'd been using the springs for over a week without going into limp mode or throwing a code. I took the spring off today, let the car warm up, and drove around again to see if it would give me another CEL. Sure enough, I was in limp mode by the time I was at the end of my street and had a CEL for running lean before I got a mile down the road. I've got another issue somewhere. What's the most common failure for fuel related issues in the 1.8t? Injectors, fuel pump, a sensor reading something incorrecty...
:banghead:


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

I have had a -8 fuel rail lying around for a few years now, and am wondering if any harm would come swapping out the stock one for it? I know the fpr won't work with it, and I will most likely need braided to hardline fittings. 

Mainly curious about any ill affects it may have...


----------



## peter139 (May 4, 2005)

stupid question:

If the hood is open, will it displayed on the tacho (with ignition on)?


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

peter139 said:


> stupid question:
> 
> If the hood is open, will it displayed on the tacho (with ignition on)?


No. Doors and hatch, yes, but not hood.


----------



## peter139 (May 4, 2005)

ok thanks, that sensor on the front, is only for the alarm?


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

sensor?


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

If the hoods not closed it won't beep because the sensor


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

PLAYED TT said:


> If the hoods not closed it won't beep because the sensor


James, how did you make out with the trans mount bracket?


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

DeckManDubs said:


> James, how did you make out with the trans mount bracket?


We made due. Check the gtg thread


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Im alittle lost shop called and said that i have dual mass flywheel. So it needs to be replaced, what would it take to instal a (http://www.goapr.com/products/dxdclutch.php?id=18ttrans6spd) APR stage 2 daily clutch? Would i need any other extra parts? Because they said i will need some kind of a conversion.  
they are sayign that the transmission or the flywheel (cant remember) is vibrating so much that its throwing off the timing by vibrating the crankshaft sensor. Is that even possible?
Im soooooo LOST!


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Need a DIY how to change flywheel.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Buy a Bentley. But better yet judging by the first post you should let a shop handle it


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

PLAYED TT said:


> Buy a Bentley. But better yet judging by the first post you should let a shop handle it


Found it! Will be trying to knock it down this weekend :thumbup:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-Removal-Clutch-Replacement-diy-Quick-Version


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

For those with quattro:

If you lift your car, have it completely turned off, and spin 1 of the back tires, what does the other one do?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> For those with quattro:
> 
> what does the other one do?


Nothing! If it does something, then you must have some locking mechanism on the open diff.


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Is it possible that i cant start my car just because my flywheel has failed? It does start from time to time but it idles terribly and then stalls. The vibration is awfull to it feels like a huge vibrator haha
My shop is guessing its the flywheel, but im doubting them. Any input would be nice.
Thanks


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Mantvis said:


> Is it possible that i cant start my car just because my flywheel has failed? It does start from time to time but it idles terribly and then stalls. The vibration is awfull to it feels like a huge vibrator haha
> My shop is guessing its the flywheel, but im doubting them. Any input would be nice.
> Thanks


Possible since the starter uses the flywheel ring gears to turn the motor over. Bad engagement and it will fail to start, just enough engagement and it'll turn over and start. The vibration at idles worries me a bit, but trying to get moving with a bad flywheel should give you that giant vibrator feeling.


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Possible since the starter uses the flywheel ring gears to turn the motor over. Bad engagement and it will fail to start, just enough engagement and it'll turn over and start. The vibration at idles worries me a bit, but trying to get moving with a bad flywheel should give you that giant vibrator feeling.


When everything was "okay" it would make clunk sound once in a while while idling. But i wasnt shure what could it be. Im wondering what could cause the car to stall once its idling. Could a bad flywheel really cause all this big mess?


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

chuckmeister87 said:


> that's definitely not the issue. I'd been using the springs for over a week without going into limp mode or throwing a code. I took the spring off today, let the car warm up, and drove around again to see if it would give me another cel. Sure enough, i was in limp mode by the time i was at the end of my street and had a cel for running lean before i got a mile down the road. I've got another issue somewhere. What's the most common failure for fuel related issues in the 1.8t? Injectors, fuel pump, a sensor reading something incorrecty...
> :banghead:



vacuum leak after the maf??


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## peter139 (May 4, 2005)

question:

my steering rack is leak, everywhere oil under the car.
So difficult to find another one, but i found one of a golf mk4

Is this the same rack?

Part numbers:
TT 8N1 422 061DX
Golf mk4 1J1 422 061FX

Will this fit?

Someone can confirm this?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

peter139 said:


> question:
> 
> my steering rack is leak, everywhere oil under the car.
> So difficult to find another one, but i found one of a golf mk4
> ...



It will bolt up and fit! However, the ratio is slower than the TT rack which will work but felt as a lost in steering sharpness. All the MK4 guys that race or autocross upgrade to the TT rack, so it's basically a downgrade.


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Im trying to remove my trans using R32 DIY (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ch-Replacement-diy-Quick-Version#post79299452)

Step 19 says
19. Remove four 16mm bolts connecting transfer case to transmission Be patient. These can take some time and be a pain but they all are accessible

Problem is i cant even see top bolts 
Can someone guide me to the right direction?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

The method they are using to drop the transmission involves leaving the bevel box attached to the car and pulling out the passenger axle cup. This allows the trans to be dropped like a FWD transmission and allows you to not remove the subframe. Requires the fluid to be drained though.

The allen key bolt in the lower left hand corner of your second picture is one of the four that holds this together. These are not the easiest of things to remove on our cars compared to an R - and you need the right tools- a ball seated long reach allen key. Don't even attempt it without one. You can get a long reach set at your local harbor freight cheap.

In addition to that you need an 6mm allen key that is about 8" long or so to remove the long bolt from the inside of the passenger axle cup. You can make one by cutting a key, JB welding it into a 6mm socket on a 1/4 drive with a long 1/4 extension.

If you decide you want to leave the bevel box intact you need to drop the subframe and unbolt the haldex from the car. I've done it both ways- the downside to dropping the subframe is- more work and a heavier trans to fit into the car as there is a trick to getting it to work as well. The downside to leaving the bevel box attached is all trans fluid is going to drain out as soon as you pull that passenger axle cup out. So you should drain the trans as neatly as possible from the bevel box and the bottom of the trans drain plug so you don't have as much of a mess.

Does that make sense ?

I've done this both ways a few times now. I like leaving the bevel box in the car because it requires half of the disassemble, but things get kind of tight on the passenger side sometimes when pulling that long axle cup assembly out. You might need to disconnect the Pass balljoint and swing the passenger axle out of the way.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> In addition to that you need an 6mm allen key that is about 8" long or so to remove the long bolt from the inside of the passenger axle cup. You can make one by cutting a key, JB welding it into a 6mm socket on a 1/4 drive with a long 1/4 extension.


Or just buy the right 1/4" drive 6mm hex bit and a long 1/4" extension.  I've stalked a Snap On truck for this bit before. 

I don't think I'll ever pull a TTQ trans without just taking the whole engine and trans out together. :laugh:


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## peter139 (May 4, 2005)

@marcus Thanks for your advice. 

I called today several companies and your story confirmed this.
Tonight i unbolted the steering rack from the car, and the cause of my problem is rust:
see pic:
http://i48.tinypic.com/35ktw6u.jpg

Tommorow i will get a new used rack


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> Or just buy the right 1/4" drive 6mm hex bit and a long 1/4" extension.  I've stalked a Snap On truck for this bit before.
> 
> I don't think I'll ever pull a TTQ trans without just taking the whole engine and trans out together. :laugh:


With the stock DMF you can't separate them that way! Sucks...


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

DougLoBue said:


> The method they are using to drop the transmission involves leaving the bevel box attached to the car and pulling out the passenger axle cup. This allows the trans to be dropped like a FWD transmission and allows you to not remove the subframe. Requires the fluid to be drained though.
> 
> The allen key bolt in the lower left hand corner of your second picture is one of the four that holds this together. These are not the easiest of things to remove on our cars compared to an R - and you need the right tools- a ball seated long reach allen key. Don't even attempt it without one. You can get a long reach set at your local harbor freight cheap.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the great description! I was able to get everything out except the top 2 bolts  I cant even see them! Where to you unbolt them throu? Through the passanger side wheel arch or from the bottom of the car? From where from should i take a picture so you could actually show me which bolts they are? Everything is so tight that I feel there is no way ill be able to see the top bolts :facepalm:

BTW I had to use 10mm allen key (heads up if anyone was going to try it) :thumbup:


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

So here i took out the 2 bottom bolts, but how do i get to the top???? :banghead:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

long reach ball seated allen key.

The bolts are in the same place on the top as they are on the bottom- reach over the bevel box.


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

DougLoBue said:


> long reach ball seated allen key.
> 
> The bolts are in the same place on the top as they are on the bottom- reach over the bevel box.


Well this sucks then! Haha its impossible with apr stage 3+ kit :/ i guess my option is to remove the haldex :/


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> With the stock DMF you can't separate them that way! Sucks...


What?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> What?


Yep... The DMF assembly is so large it requires the transmission to be lowered from the motor. I guess this is possible if you have a motor stand that can bolt to the timing belt side- I don't.

There is a groove cut in the transmission specifically to clear the DMF/clutch assembly, it's only cut into the bottom of the transmission though- the top is blocked. With a single mass you can split the trans from the motor on the ground though.

Mantvis- yep if the APR kit is bottom mount turbo you'll have a lot of trouble here. Get subframe dropping and put those bolts back in the bevel box. Use the groove like I was saying above to remove and reinstall the trans. There is a trick to every trans- ours is raise it up almost next to the clutch assembly so the flywheel cutout I'm talking about allows the clutch assembly to slide through- then align it and pop it on. might involve some spinning of the crank to make the spline fit perfectly.

You should really follow the bentley manual directions and not the R32 writeup at this point since you need to remember to remove the driveshaft and bevel box bracket.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> Yep... The DMF assembly is so large it requires the transmission to be lowered from the motor. I guess this is possible if you have a motor stand that can bolt to the timing belt side- I don't.
> 
> There is a groove cut in the transmission specifically to clear the DMF/clutch assembly, it's only cut into the bottom of the transmission though- the top is blocked. With a single mass you can split the trans from the motor on the ground though.


I'm sorry, I'm still not understanding you. The only time I took a trans off a TT motor, it was a 225 engine with 6 speed 02M. I couldn't get the trans off due to the DMFW, and ended up seperating the angle drive/bevel box/rear output/whatever you want to call it. I don't get what you're saying about requiring the trans to be lowered from the motor though. Also, were there models or years that come with SMFW and others DMFW? 225 vs 180Q? I thought all 02M Quattro trans were DMFW.  FWD 02J's have DMFW's also.


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## chaldowhiteboy (Jun 14, 2010)

when the clutch is due to be changed out, does that mean that the pressure plate would need to be also?


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

chaldowhiteboy said:


> when the clutch is due to be changed out, does that mean that the pressure plate would need to be also?


Probably. Regardless, most people do because the labor involved is so great, that to not do it and then have to repeat the labor at a later date, just doesn't pass the common sense test.

cheers


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

DougLoBue said:


> Yep... The DMF assembly is so large it requires the transmission to be lowered from the motor. I guess this is possible if you have a motor stand that can bolt to the timing belt side- I don't.
> 
> There is a groove cut in the transmission specifically to clear the DMF/clutch assembly, it's only cut into the bottom of the transmission though- the top is blocked. With a single mass you can split the trans from the motor on the ground though.
> 
> ...


What you mean by lowering trans from the motor?
Thank you for all your help!


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## chaldowhiteboy (Jun 14, 2010)

TTC2k5 said:


> Probably. Regardless, most people do because the labor involved is so great, that to not do it and then have to repeat the labor at a later date, just doesn't pass the common sense test.
> 
> cheers


Thank you! Makes sense 

And does anyone know if it would matter what brand clutch and pressure plate I can use if I am using a Clutchmasters aluminum flywheel? Any recommendations? I just can't justify buying the Clutchmasters clutch and pressure plate again concerning the price. The reason why I bought it the first time around was because they threw in a free aluminum flywheel.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

chaldowhiteboy said:


> Thank you! Makes sense
> 
> And does anyone know if it would matter what brand clutch and pressure plate I can use if I am using a Clutchmasters aluminum flywheel? Any recommendations? I just can't justify buying the Clutchmasters clutch and pressure plate again concerning the price. The reason why I bought it the first time around was because they threw in a free aluminum flywheel.


In this case, it's like brake pads and discs. You want to marry the set. Same goes for PP, FW, and disc. If you change one, typically you want to change all. On the aluminum FW, you'd want to resurface the friction plate or replace if it has deep wear. Same with the PP. This way there are fresh surfaces to break in and "marry" to the clutch disc.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> I'm sorry, I'm still not understanding you. The only time I took a trans off a TT motor, it was a 225 engine with 6 speed 02M. I couldn't get the trans off due to the DMFW, and ended up seperating the angle drive/bevel box/rear output/whatever you want to call it. I don't get what you're saying about requiring the trans to be lowered from the motor though. Also, were there models or years that come with SMFW and others DMFW? 225 vs 180Q? I thought all 02M Quattro trans were DMFW.  FWD 02J's have DMFW's also.


I'll try to find a photo.

All TT's did come with DMF's. I've swapped to a SMF so I know they can be broken apart without using this indentation in the transmission.

You can drop the trans from a TT with bevel box still attached with the motor still installed in the car- I've done it a bunch of times. It just requires you to do it perfectly and use this specific slot I'm speaking of.

If someone gets a picture from under the car, facing up at the trans, motor and bevel box- where they all meet there. I can point it out.


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

DougLoBue said:


> I'll try to find a photo.
> 
> All TT's did come with DMF's. I've swapped to a SMF so I know they can be broken apart without using this indentation in the transmission.
> 
> ...


Hopefully i got the right pics, if not ill go take some more haha


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> You can drop the trans from a TT with bevel box still attached with the motor still installed in the car- I've done it a bunch of times. It just requires you to do it perfectly and use this specific slot I'm speaking of.


I keep losing you (sorry). You can or can't do this with an OEM DMFW? I can't tell if you're talking about now that you've swapped to a SMFW or before.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

The space for the DMF to slide through is what I made a red box around. The red arrow shows how you move the trans out (obviously). The clutch & DMF assembly are in blue. You need to keep the bell-housing an equal distance from the motor then just lower it striaght down allowing the DMF to fit through the red box.

This is the best I can describe it. Essentially if you don't do this what happens is the trans gets kind of twisted then the flywheel starter gears grind and get stuck on the back of the bevel box/trans casing.


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## Currancchs (Feb 24, 2011)

Not sure if this helps, but I did this job a while back, got the transmission off with the bevel box still attached, had the dual mass flywheel, switched to a single mass. It was very tight, but doable. Really helps to fully remove the subframe, which I didn't the first time around (it was 99% off, just left it hanging). I took the trans apart a second time after this, and with the subframe fully removed it should be fairly obvious how the trans has to be tilted to remove with bevel box attached. I did this on floor jacks with no tranny jack (three people to maneuver it) so its definitely possible. Pics below:

http://forums.subdriven.com/showthread.php?5435821-Spec-Stage-I-Clutch-install-pics-and-info

(sorry about all of the irrelevant ones!)


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Buy a Bentley


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

PLAYED TT said:


> Buy a Bentley


Then "Official Stupid Question Thread" becomes pointless


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

DougLoBue said:


> The space for the DMF to slide through is what I made a red box around. The red arrow shows how you move the trans out (obviously). The clutch & DMF assembly are in blue. You need to keep the bell-housing an equal distance from the motor then just lower it striaght down allowing the DMF to fit through the red box.
> 
> This is the best I can describe it. Essentially if you don't do this what happens is the trans gets kind of twisted then the flywheel starter gears grind and get stuck on the back of the bevel box/trans casing.


I will try this!
Thanks again!


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

PLAYED TT said:


> Buy a Bentley






Mantvis said:


> Then "Official Stupid Question Thread" becomes pointless


So I'll assume you'll be guessing on the torque specs? :banghead:


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

DougLoBue said:


> So I'll assume you'll be guessing on the torque specs? :banghead:


Wait the torque specs on the R32 DIY aren't the same???


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

DougLoBue said:


> So I'll assume you'll be guessing on the torque specs? :banghead:


Dont you just tighten all the bolts as hard as you can and call it a day? :sly:


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Mantvis said:


> Dont you just tighten all the bolts as hard as you can and call it a day? :sly:


:what:


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Ok so im able to mve the trans around freely, but i just cant get it out. :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:
Someone on facebook said something about clutch fork


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

02M's don't have clutch forks. Your issue is the one we've been talking about, trying to get the DMFW through the very tight space Doug highlighted. It's why I seperate the two. Honestly, it's easier to remove the whole damn engine and trans that fight with the 02M(Q) in one piece if you're doing this without a trans stand/lift/multiple people.

By the book, you should follow torque specs on every bolt, but that's in a world where dealerships are held liable. I never torque anything but critical joints, ie main caps, rod bolts, flywheel bolts, etc. Being that there are 6 or 7? bolts holding the trans to the engine, and 4 holding the angle drive, and several brackets to reinforce all this, if you put all the bolt backs and get them as tight as you can, you'll be fine. And don't tell me you've all bolted down your coilpacks with a torque wrench every time you check or change plugs. :laugh:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Mantvis said:


> Ok so im able to mve the trans around freely, but i just cant get it out. :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:
> Someone on facebook said something about clutch fork



Have you completely removed the subframe?
Did you remove the transmission mount and the mount tower from the top of the trans?
Have you lowered the motor a little so the trans doesn't hit the frame rail?
is the drivers axle getting stuck on the axle cup?

Important if it does fall down: Are the shifter cables and clutch fluid line disconnected from the trans?

It comes out. I have done this countless times on my back with nothing more than a floor jack or two.



20v master said:


> And don't tell me you've all bolted down your coilpacks with a torque wrench every time you check or change plugs. :laugh:


I don't have bolts on mine- or I would haha... Surprised the engineer in you didn't come out telling me how VW/Audi Engineers have spent countless hours, computerized stress tests, formulas and all sorts of QC time to figure out that this bolt needs to be torqued to exactly 44 ft/lbs. 

I was just trying to convey that the Bentley is possibly the most important tool you can have when working on this car. Especially if you lack the intuition to find four bolts that are in a square pattern and you've already taken a photo of one of them... diagrams help. We all built Legos when we were kids- this is no different.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> I don't have bolts on mine- or I would haha... Surprised the engineer in you didn't come out telling me how VW/Audi Engineers have spent countless hours, computerized stress tests, formulas and all sorts of QC time to figure out that this bolt needs to be torqued to exactly 44 ft/lbs.


Engineers also do a lot of stupid stuff, like putting a 35lb weight behind your bumper, or putting smaller non vented disc brakes on two identical cars except one has 45 chp less stock, and making coil packs that can't withstand seasonal temperature swings, or putting subframe braces on the V6 model because it has 15 more chp than the next model down, or putting big arse FW's on engines so there's no room to remove the transmission, or putting a tiny keyway on a timing cog that easily sheers, or putting a hump in the middle of your intake manifold plenum to accomodate a dipstick, or using vac lines made of rubber that can't handle underhood temps. I could keep going. 

Bentley's are great tools if you're going to be doing your own work, and facinating at first. Then, over a year or two, you don't look at the thing except to look up main cap and head bolt torque, and head bolt torque sequence. :laugh:


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

DougLoBue said:


> Have you completely removed the subframe?
> Did you remove the transmission mount and the mount tower from the top of the trans?
> Have you lowered the motor a little so the trans doesn't hit the frame rail?
> is the drivers axle getting stuck on the axle cup?
> ...


Yes i do agree that bentley would be helpful in this situation, other than that everythig is straight forward in this car. Its not that i dont understand where the 4 bolts should be, its that 3' downpipe and oversized turbo is really not helping in this situation. Even if i so get the bolts out by luck there is no way theyre going in. Yes ive taken a picture of one of the lower bolts, and those are simple. But the top 2 are the ones that are possible to get to.

Everything has been removed it seems that the trans is "locked" somewhere. I an move it up and down, twist it tilt it, but it just doesnt go far enough to the side so i cant clear the flywheel.

The subrame is sitting in the other side of the garage, this is the biggest BS work ive ever done. Im ready to pay anyone who is willing to help me with this. Already made posts in regional forums :facepalm:

Should of payed a shop to do it to begin with :facepalm:


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

20v master said:


> 02M's don't have clutch forks. Your issue is the one we've been talking about, trying to get the DMFW through the very tight space Doug highlighted. It's why I seperate the two. Honestly, it's easier to remove the whole damn engine and trans that fight with the 02M(Q) in one piece if you're doing this without a trans stand/lift/multiple people.
> 
> By the book, you should follow torque specs on every bolt, but that's in a world where dealerships are held liable. I never torque anything but critical joints, ie main caps, rod bolts, flywheel bolts, etc. Being that there are 6 or 7? bolts holding the trans to the engine, and 4 holding the angle drive, and several brackets to reinforce all this, if you put all the bolt backs and get them as tight as you can, you'll be fine. And don't tell me you've all bolted down your coilpacks with a torque wrench every time you check or change plugs. :laugh:


By saying separate the 2 what do you mean? is there anything that holds the clutch inside the trans? I feel there is a bolt that ive missed. Even tho i can move the trans back and fourth


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Mantvis said:


> By saying separate the 2 what do you mean? is there anything that holds the clutch inside the trans? I feel there is a bolt that ive missed. Even tho i can move the trans back and fourth


Once the bolts around the bellhousing are removed, the transmission input shaft would have to slide out of the clutch disc. There are no fasteners, just a limited amount of space that is stopping you. By seperate the two, I mean split the angle drive/bevel box from the transmission case. Like we said earlier, this requires removing the passenger side axle cup with a long 1/4" drive 6mm hex bit, and the four bolts (that you couldn't find the two top ones earlier). Again, all this is why I just prefer to remove the whole engine and trans as one unit.


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

What a B*&CH!
Got that thing out :banghead::banghead:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

20v master said:


> Engineers also do a lot of stupid stuff, like putting a 35lb weight behind your bumper, or putting smaller non vented disc brakes on two identical cars except one has 45 chp less stock, and making coil packs that can't withstand seasonal temperature swings, or putting subframe braces on the V6 model because it has 15 more chp than the next model down, or putting big arse FW's on engines so there's no room to remove the transmission, or putting a tiny keyway on a timing cog that easily sheers, or putting a hump in the middle of your intake manifold plenum to accomodate a dipstick, or using vac lines made of rubber that can't handle underhood temps. I could keep going.
> 
> Bentley's are great tools if you're going to be doing your own work, and facinating at first. Then, over a year or two, you don't look at the thing except to look up main cap and head bolt torque, and head bolt torque sequence. :laugh:


I like the train of thought, must be an engineer that is no longer fresh out of school (they usually prioritize formulas and making things work on paper and simulation, over what will works with practicality). 

I agree, repair manuals are great tools for the average tinkerer. However, like Adam is saying, after a few laps around the block, and becoming a true grease monkey, it's all the same crap. A TQ spec and sequence sheet and a wiring diagram is about all you need to do repairs, most of the time these manuals miss the most efficient way of doing a job (usually there are several ways but not all of them appropriate for the guy with a rock and a stick). :beer:


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## chaldowhiteboy (Jun 14, 2010)

20v master said:


> In this case, it's like brake pads and discs. You want to marry the set. Same goes for PP, FW, and disc. If you change one, typically you want to change all. On the aluminum FW, you'd want to resurface the friction plate or replace if it has deep wear. Same with the PP. This way there are fresh surfaces to break in and "marry" to the clutch disc.


Yes I understand this.. I'm going to get the CM flywheel resurfaced at a local shop but I was wondering if I need to specifically buy the CM disk and PP to along with it, or if its ok to go with a different brand.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

chaldowhiteboy said:


> Yes I understand this.. I'm going to get the CM flywheel resurfaced at a local shop but I was wondering if I need to specifically buy the CM disk and PP to along with it, or if its ok to go with a different brand.


As long as the PP will bolt to the FW, you'll be fine. :thumbup:


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## chaldowhiteboy (Jun 14, 2010)

20v master said:


> As long as the PP will bolt to the FW, you'll be fine. :thumbup:


Okay, I see. Thank you!


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Mantvis said:


> Im alittle lost shop called and said that i have dual mass flywheel. So it needs to be replaced, what would it take to instal a (http://www.goapr.com/products/dxdclutch.php?id=18ttrans6spd) APR stage 2 daily clutch? Would i need any other extra parts? Because they said i will need some kind of a conversion.
> they are sayign that the transmission or the flywheel (cant remember) is vibrating so much that its throwing off the timing by vibrating the crankshaft sensor. Is that even possible?
> Im soooooo LOST!


It turned out that my clutch and flywheel has fallen apart completely so much for a SPEC Stage 4, will be ordering Clutch Masters Stage 4 Kit :thumbup:


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

This might help someone, couldnt get flywheel bolts out because the whole flywheel would turn. So thought of this.


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

How hot can a turbo get?
Wold it be worth to wrap my intake pipe in a header wrap?
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MKI-Quattro-225HP/Exhaust/Performance/ES261348/


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## jaxtt (Jul 17, 2012)

*Interior door handles removable?*

The interior door handles of my tt have become scratched over the years. Is the handle section removable? I'd like to remove them and wrap them in leather that matches the doors armrest.


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## NIGHTWOLF (Jan 30, 2005)

jaxtt said:


> The interior door handles of my tt have become scratched over the years. Is the handle section removable? I'd like to remove them and wrap them in leather that matches the doors armrest.


Yes, turn the trim piece at the base of the handle counter clockwise, and remove the screw. Pull the hole door card up and it will pop off. You then have access to remove the screw holding the top of the handle... the rest is up to you.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Mantvis said:


> How hot can a turbo get?
> Wold it be worth to wrap my intake pipe in a header wrap?
> http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MKI-Quattro-225HP/Exhaust/Performance/ES261348/


No.


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## jaxtt (Jul 17, 2012)

Thank you night wolf!


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

20v master said:


> No.


My intake pipe heatshield is all ripped and looks like shiiet. Whats an alternative? i dont want the same thing, cuz it just looks bad


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Mantvis said:


> It turned out that my clutch and flywheel has fallen apart completely so much for a SPEC Stage 4, will be ordering Clutch Masters Stage 4 Kit :thumbup:


Well when you buy a flood damaged car what did you expect? I'm surprised it lasted this long if its the one that was under water.


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

PLAYED TT said:


> Well when you buy a flood damaged car what did you expect? I'm surprised it lasted this long if its the one that was under water.


lol just think what you just said :thumbup:
explain how water can f up the clutch :sly:
if anything the electronics should of been all f'ed up. Transmission is the last thing if would check...


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Mantvis said:


> lol just think what you just said :thumbup:
> explain how water can f up the clutch :sly:
> if anything the electronics should of been all f'ed up. Transmission is the last thing if would check...


If water can get into the motor why not get in the tranny? But Doug and I talked about the issue and apparently that brand clutch is know to blow itself up lol. Great quality product


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Mantvis said:


> lol just think what you just said :thumbup:
> explain how water can f up the clutch


Because there are drain holes in the bell housing, which would allow the bell housing to fill up with water in a flood damaged car. I don't think steel friction surfaces of FW's and PP's, much less steel springs in sprung discs or steel rivets that hold friction pads to the clutch disc , like water and/or rust. :screwy:

And yeah, SPEC isn't known for the best reliability.


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## Currancchs (Feb 24, 2011)

Agree with above, I put a SPEC stage I in about a year ago now, didn't lubricate the input shaft splines and a light coating of rust formed on them, enough to cause clutch to drag, was hard to get into gear, had to rip the whole thing apart, and that was just from moisture in the air! My spec is still holding up, but I haven't heard great things, and it is pretty chattery/rough engagement with ~20k on it.


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

PLAYED TT said:


> If water can get into the motor why not get in the tranny? But Doug and I talked about the issue and apparently that brand clutch is know to blow itself up lol. Great quality product


Sure it can get inside, its not gonna do any harm tho...
Never installed new clutch, SPEC was already in the car. Ordered clutch masters stage 4


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

20v master said:


> Because there are drain holes in the bell housing, which would allow the bell housing to fill up with water in a flood damaged car. I don't think steel friction surfaces of FW's and PP's, much less steel springs in sprung discs or steel rivets that hold friction pads to the clutch disc , like water and/or rust. :screwy:
> 
> And yeah, SPEC isn't known for the best reliability.


When it starts raining ill be pushing my car


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Mantvis said:


> When it starts raining ill be pushing my car


Read the post above about rust on the input shaft just from moisture in the air. We're not talking about when it rains, we're talking about the FLOOD SALVAGE car you bought. Apparently you thought you could just change the oil and it'd be fine. :laugh:


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Mantvis said:


> Sure it can get inside, its not gonna do any harm tho...
> Never installed new clutch, SPEC was already in the car. Ordered clutch masters stage 4


No I understand you didn't put it in that's what I'm saying. That brand plus water damage or rust or springs flying off or whatever makes me wonder how you could even drive it from the get go without it exploding. I'm surprised it lasted this long. In other words the shop you took it too should have thought of this too or I would seriously be reconsidering their mechanics knowledge.


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

PLAYED TT said:


> No I understand you didn't put it in that's what I'm saying. That brand plus water damage or rust or springs flying off or whatever makes me wonder how you could even drive it from the get go without it exploding. I'm surprised it lasted this long. In other words the shop you took it too should have thought of this too or I would seriously be reconsidering their mechanics knowledge.


Oh the shop is ****. never goin back to them again. Ill just finish the car my self much faster using stone and stick.

Couldnt have done this without you guys :beer:


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Mantvis said:


> Oh the shop is ****. never goin back to them again. Ill just finish the car my self much faster using stone and stick.
> 
> Couldnt have done this without you guys :beer:


Haha there ya go


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

My steering rack is shot, the left side is leaking. I know that people rebuild them back in Europe. But is there a kit that i could get to do it myself?
TIA


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## NIGHTWOLF (Jan 30, 2005)

Any way to find out my paint code if the sticker in the trunk has been removed? I'm either Raven Black Pear, or Brilliant Black, can anyone define the difference?


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## stonesculptor (Sep 16, 2012)

*Best car cover?*

Noob here. Hi all. Love my new/old dream car. Does anyone have any thoughts or experience with car covers? I need something to get through a New England winter ungaraged. http://genuineaudiparts.com has an OEM cover for $189. Is this cover worth the money?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

NIGHTWOLF said:


> Any way to find out my paint code if the sticker in the trunk has been removed? I'm either Raven Black Pear, or Brilliant Black, can anyone define the difference?


In the manual. Post up a good photo of your car too. A couple photos in a separate thread. I went through this dilemma and you don't want to mix the two paints....


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

NIGHTWOLF said:


> Any way to find out my paint code if the sticker in the trunk has been removed? I'm either Raven Black Pear, or Brilliant Black, can anyone define the difference?


Call AoA's 1-800 customer service and give them your vin...they can tell you the code.

cheers.


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## NIGHTWOLF (Jan 30, 2005)

Thanks, took 20 minutes on the phone to get it, but now I can order some touch up paint and fix a few things.:thumbup:


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

NIGHTWOLF said:


> Thanks, took 20 minutes on the phone to get it, but now I can order some touch up paint and fix a few things.:thumbup:


It's pretty easy to tell the difference. One has pearl in it, and the other one doesn't.


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

Is there a way to get only the net in the door card, or are they only sold/replaced as a whole unit?


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Has anyone made a setup to spray water onto their radiator, FMIC, or SMIC?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

warranty225cpe said:


> It's pretty easy to tell the difference. One has pearl in it, and the other one doesn't.


I'm paint retarded :laugh:


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

DougLoBue said:


> I'm paint retarded :laugh:


Black is black


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## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

Anyway to do something similar to a flapper mod on a 180 fwd (I know they don't have a flap). Just want it a little louder without spending an arm and a leg right now to get a 42DD down pipe and APR cat back. Something that can be temporary without hacking up my exhaust.


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

chrisc351 said:


> Anyway to do something similar to a flapper mod on a 180 fwd (I know they don't have a flap). Just want it a little louder without spending an arm and a leg right now to get a 42DD down pipe and APR cat back. Something that can be temporary without hacking up my exhaust.


Get an air intake
Delete the resonator
If you want more sound you gotta do something with the exhaust.. no way out


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

chrisc351 said:


> Anyway to do something similar to a flapper mod on a 180 fwd (I know they don't have a flap). Just want it a little louder without spending an arm and a leg right now to get a 42DD down pipe and APR cat back. Something that can be temporary without hacking up my exhaust.


You have a FWD, I'd think you could use the FWD DP's, meaning you don't need a 42DD unit. Cut the resonator out and have a straight pipe welded in it's place. Have the muffler shop open up the OEM muffler, and gut it, and then weld the case back closed. Like said, other than taking the whole thing off, not much you can do without being able to weld yourself.


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

20v master said:


> You have a FWD, I'd think you could use the FWD DP's, meaning you don't need a 42DD unit. Cut the resonator out and have a straight pipe welded in it's place. Have the muffler shop open up the OEM muffler, and gut it, and then weld the case back closed. Like said, other than taking the whole thing off, not much you can do without being able to weld yourself.


What i did with my 180 was i dook the OEM DP i cut the flange where it connects to the turbi i went online ordered a flex pipe i did 2.5 inches (i think) and just welded everything back. Did it look pretty? No. Did i save money? Yes, the whole thing costed me 20$ and about 3 hours of work.
Its been a third year, and Chicago has some rough weather still holding like new and it was daily driven until the trans went out. :thumbup:


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

Fuel pump question:

I have a Walbro 255 (mod'ed for more flow) being fed my my stock TT225 in tank, but I need more flow for my incoming turbo (PTE 6262). Will a larger inline (Aeromotive 1000 maybe) just pull through my stock in tank? Or should I be putting larger pumps right in tank, e.g., two Aeromotive drop-in 400s? I'm leaning towards the latter being the 'right' way to do it, but I would prefer to have a single pump to keep the failure points to a minimum.


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

When I pulled the trans these fell out, and no i have no clue where they go :facepalm:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Matvis- they are your shift mechanism bushings. They go in the metal sleeve that sits on top of the transmission. The one that is horizontal to the ground is the best way I can describe it without it in front of me. It's closer to the drivers side.


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

Anyone know why these leds don't work in the map light socket? They just won't light up.


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

DougLoBue said:


> Matvis- they are your shift mechanism bushings. They go in the metal sleeve that sits on top of the transmission. The one that is horizontal to the ground is the best way I can describe it without it in front of me. It's closer to the drivers side.


If thats what your talking about, they dont fit


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

Mantvis said:


> When I pulled the trans these fell out, and no i have no clue where they go :facepalm:


When you're facing the flywheel side of the engine, the tranny to engine bolt at about one o'clock has a stud on top of it that your one of your shifter cable brackets bolts on to - I'm pretty sure those are the sleeves that go on the stud before you put the nut on said stud.


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

For those who have young kids, do you or would you let them ride in the front seat in their car seat or booster seat? This is with the airbag off of course.

I only have my daughter once a week. She is 6 and in a booster seat. I have her ride in the back now, and even with the front seat pulled all of the way forward, there really isn't much room. I am considering a rear seat delete, but don't want to jeopardize her safety.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

jbrehm said:


> When you're facing the flywheel side of the engine, the tranny to engine bolt at about one o'clock has a stud on top of it that your one of your shifter cable brackets bolts on to - I'm pretty sure those are the sleeves that go on the stud before you put the nut on said stud.


They're the sleeves that go in the rubber bushings that hold the shift cable bracket to the trans. There are three bushings in the bracket, one of which mounts to the stud you are talking about. :thumbup:


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## Letter K (Jan 8, 2011)

hey how do i install a cupra r lip? do i just drill it in?


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Letter K said:


> hey how do i install a cupra r lip? do i just drill it in?


BlueTTop DIY fotki is best:

http://public.fotki.com/BlueTTop/mods/lcr-splitter/

cheers


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

20v master said:


> They're the sleeves that go in the rubber bushings that hold the shift cable bracket to the trans. There are three bushings in the bracket, one of which mounts to the stud you are talking about. :thumbup:


Thanks!


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Im full of stupid questions :laugh:

Installed my clutch, and ill be draining out the brake fluid complete. What should i bleed first, master cylinder or the brakes?


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## chaldowhiteboy (Jun 14, 2010)

Is it possible for oil to leak from the oil dip stick funnel hole if the funnel is broken?

I noticed that oil was leaking from the general area of where the oil cooler is. So realizing that my car is 12+ years old, I changed out the oil cooler gasket (being very hard and compressed) with a fresh new one hoping that would have stopped the leak. But no, it's still leaking from that general area but I can't figure out where its coming from. I'm hoping its not the oil pan..


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

chaldowhiteboy said:


> Is it possible for oil to leak from the oil dip stick funnel hole if the funnel is broken?
> 
> I noticed that oil was leaking from the general area of where the oil cooler is. So realizing that my car is 12+ years old, I changed out the oil cooler gasket (being very hard and compressed) with a fresh new one hoping that would have stopped the leak. But no, it's still leaking from that general area but I can't figure out where its coming from. I'm hoping its not the oil pan..


Almost sounds like you might have a leak in one of your PCV lines or a leaking intake manifold. Check for leaking hoses underneath the manifold.


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## chaldowhiteboy (Jun 14, 2010)

warranty225cpe said:


> Almost sounds like you might have a leak in one of your PCV lines or a leaking intake manifold. Check for leaking hoses underneath the manifold.


PCV lines! That might be so. But an oil leak from the intake mani? How would there be an oil leak from there?


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

If the orange plastic piece is broken its probably the source. They are notorious for breaking and leaking


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## chaldowhiteboy (Jun 14, 2010)

PLAYED TT said:


> If the orange plastic piece is broken its probably the source. They are notorious for breaking and leaking


Yeah I bought one online and it should be coming soon but I wish there was a way I could easily see what's going on under that area without ripping everything apart. Well I guess if I still have leaks after I replace the dip stick funnel then I will try option 3, which is replacing the pcv lines. 

Anything else down in that general area that might be prone to leaking?


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Under the intake there are I believe 2 bolts that you remove and the metal piece that's in front of the dipstick can be moved down then so you have plenty of room to move around. I took this piece out and replaced my dip stick tube with a meal one so I would never have to worry about it leaking ever


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Mantvis said:


> Im full of stupid questions :laugh:
> 
> Installed my clutch, and ill be draining out the brake fluid complete. What should i bleed first, master cylinder or the brakes?


start at the rear passenger tire. Use clear tubing to put on the bleeder and bleed it until you see your new brake fluid (there are different colors you can use to visualize, if its not colored the new fluid should be clearer depending on how bad the old fluid is, or bleed until you think you have bled enough then bleed some more). Pasenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front, and clutch in that order and you should be golden :thumbup:

-PS always keep the reservoir full!! dont let air into the lines man!


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## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

Thinking about plasti dipping my front end for winter and if I like it maybe doing the whole car? opinions?


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Yeah don't lol. Ask Doug........


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## chaldowhiteboy (Jun 14, 2010)

Could this be the reason to why my clutch is slipping? 










Oil is baked on EVERYWHERE


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

Well where is it coming from?? How many miles on said clutch and is there any mods done to the car?


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## chaldowhiteboy (Jun 14, 2010)

Audiguy84 said:


> Well where is it coming from?? How many miles on said clutch and is there any mods done to the car?


I don't have any major mods done to the car. I can't figure out where the oil leak is coming from.. it seems to be in the general area of the oil cooler but I'm not sure where because I changed out the oil cooler gasket 1 week ago. I'm thinking its the PCV lines? 186,xxx miles on the car now. 40,000 of them on the clutchmasters fx100 with clutchmasters aluminum flywheel. I was thinking that my clutch would probably just be out because of the miles but now i think it might be because of oil getting into the transmission.. either way im changing the clutch out, but i need to figure out this oil leak issue first!


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view










Snapped the head of the left bolt that mounts the dog bone to the subrame.
The whole bold is stuck in the subrame. I tried the EZ drill thing, no luck.

What are my options? :facepalm:


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

chad,

Many old TTs with modifications have clutches that slip. They just weren't made the hold the power. If you don't want to spend the money on a "Stage 1" or "Stage 2" clutch, I heard a clutch from a VR6 fits and can hold the power.

The hole there is just for timing or something. Don't worry about it, and don't plug it. :beer:


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

Anyone know if the contour of the gas door on the r8 is close to the same as our TT's? I am going to consider a swap if it is.


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## NIGHTWOLF (Jan 30, 2005)

What is the size of the hose that "U's" around the passenger side upper intercooler hose? I am ordering new silicone hoses, and have all the sizes up this one.

Thanks


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## Tempes_TT (Oct 24, 2010)

Too lazy too look it up, but do the votex side skirts replace, or go over the stock skirts?


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## NIGHTWOLF (Jan 30, 2005)

yes, the vortex kit mounts over your stock skirts


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> The hole there is just for timing or something. Don't worry about it, and don't plug it. :beer:


Never heard this, why not?


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Could a light weight flywheel cause the car to stall when its standing and i rev it up to 3k and when its coming down it stalls. is it possible for the flywheel to cause this? if so, will ECU adapt to this change?


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## chaldowhiteboy (Jun 14, 2010)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> chad,
> 
> Many old TTs with modifications have clutches that slip. They just weren't made the hold the power. If you don't want to spend the money on a "Stage 1" or "Stage 2" clutch, I heard a clutch from a VR6 fits and can hold the power.
> 
> The hole there is just for timing or something. Don't worry about it, and don't plug it. :beer:


Look man, no offense but your answer is completely useless to me. I appreciate that you're tryin to help but at least read a little bit about the stats I posted about my car and what I am actually trying to fix. With all due respect, don't post about something that you don't know anything about. 

1. I have no major mods done to the car.
2. The clutch is not as old as the car, which seems to me is what you're assuming.
3. My issue isn't trying to diagnose a clutch problem, it's an oil leak problem.


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Sorry chad, I missed the next post you made right after the pictures you posted.

I wouldn't change the clutch if I were you. If any oil DID get into the trans window then it wouldn't have greased up your clutch, and I should know since my PCV broke and my lower engine looked as cruddy as yours does until I cleaned it and replaced my PCV. It ended up being the lower elbow coming right off the engine under the intake mani.


I currently have a grinding noise that will happen sometimes during the first shift into 4th or 5th after the car is warm, and it's a slave cylinder problem. Not sure if that's what you're having, but it'd be worth looking into rather than replacing a possible good clutch.....


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## chaldowhiteboy (Jun 14, 2010)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> Sorry chad, I missed the next post you made right after the pictures you posted.
> 
> I wouldn't change the clutch if I were you. If any oil DID get into the trans window then it wouldn't have greased up your clutch, and I should know since my PCV broke and my lower engine looked as cruddy as yours does until I cleaned it and replaced my PCV. It ended up being the lower elbow coming right off the engine under the intake mani.
> 
> ...



My clutch needs to be changed, regardless. It's slipping. Whether its because of the oil leak getting into there or because of the 40,000 wear on it, it's pretty much time to change it out. That's not a question.


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Getting "Boost Pressure Control valve (N249) open circuit intermitten P1287 (VAG COM 17695)
Bad valve? how can i check? whats going on? 
The car is not bossing(max 2psi), there are no leaks i checked for them.


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## Currancchs (Feb 24, 2011)

You could just run a line direct to the DV from the intake manifold and bypass that thing (have to leave plugged in so you don't get a code, but seeing as you're already getting one, could try just putting a resistor in place of it). Seems weird to me that you're only getting 2psi though, wastegate should mechanically control boost @pressure


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Currancchs said:


> You could just run a line direct to the DV from the intake manifold and bypass that thing (have to leave plugged in so you don't get a code, but seeing as you're already getting one, could try just putting a resistor in place of it). Seems weird to me that you're only getting 2psi though, wastegate should mechanically control boost @pressure


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

Is there any links to a write up on how to remove the exterior door handles?


----------



## chaldowhiteboy (Jun 14, 2010)

Does anybody know how much the bolts on the intake manifold to the head are supposed to be torqued to? I can't seem to find it in the Bentley.


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## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

So I just ordered a set of 5x112 Rotiform BLQ's 19x8.5 et45 and running 215/35's for my TT, anybody have any clue what size adapters I should run? 20, 25, 30? I'm gonna be static and want to tuck a little bit of tire to be as low as possible.


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

chaldowhiteboy said:


> Does anybody know how much the bolts on the intake manifold to the head are supposed to be torqued to? I can't seem to find it in the Bentley.


15ft lb's


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

They do come in 5x100 ya know. But ask Ben he would know


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## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

PLAYED TT said:


> They do come in 5x100 ya know. But ask Ben he would know


Thanksgiving sale had them for $695 but only in 5x112 so I couldn't pass it up. What is Bens username, I'm not new to the vortex, but I'm relatively new to the TT forum.


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

His sn is Neb.


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## chaldowhiteboy (Jun 14, 2010)

Forty-six and 2 said:


> 15ft lb's


Thank you :beer:


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

chrisc351 said:


> So I just ordered a set of 5x112 Rotiform BLQ's 19x8.5 et45 and running 215/35's for my TT, anybody have any clue what size adapters I should run? 20, 25, 30? I'm gonna be static and want to tuck a little bit of tire to be as low as possible.


Answered in PM but I would run a 25 adapter front and 34-40 rear. :beer:


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## peter139 (May 4, 2005)

need your help. i drive 180fwd. My boost is only 0,5 bar (7.2psi) at full throttle. 
Did a boost leak test and found nothing. Did the actuator spring mod, this works fine. 
Stock should it be 0,85bar (12.3psi). 

Were to search?


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## peter139 (May 4, 2005)

Found the problem already. Replaced the n75, but it didn't help. So the solution was to lubricate my forge diverter valve with some grease. How simple can it be?


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

peter139 said:


> solution was to lubricate my forge diverter valve with some grease. How simple can it be?


Hi Peter, it sounds like the piston was stuck in the open position if that resolved the issue.. does that sound right? Curious what spring you are running in the DV and how long you have had this in the car and the last time you lubed it. I have Forge 008 and was advised once a year is good.

Good to hear you got it figured out with a bit of grease


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

Coupe of questions:

1. Does anyone know what the MAF output voltage signal is? I've heard 5V
2. What is the maximum reading the MAF can output?

i.e. MAF output signal from 0-5V
Corresponds to: from 0 gr/sec to 300 gr/sec???

Anyone knows what is max air rate?

Thanks!


----------



## .Spatula. (Jul 22, 2012)

Are the OEM roof rack base bars for the MK1 TT Audi Zubehör base bars? I'm looking for a snowboard rack that attaches to the OEM base bars and ECS has one for the Audi Zubehör base bars, just want to make sure it's what I'm looking for.


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

.Spatula. said:


> Are the OEM roof rack base bars for the MK1 TT Audi Zubehör base bars? I'm looking for a snowboard rack that attaches to the OEM base bars and ECS has one for the Audi Zubehör base bars, just want to make sure it's what I'm looking for.


I have the bars and cannot answer that question. Call ECS and ask specifically and if they say yes and they don't, verify that they will give you a full refund plus return shipping.

that'd be my approach.

cheers


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## misternoob (Oct 25, 2009)

peter139 said:


> need your help. i drive 180fwd. My boost is only 0,5 bar (7.2psi) at full throttle.
> Did a boost leak test and found nothing. Did the actuator spring mod, this works fine.
> Stock should it be 0,85bar (12.3psi).
> 
> Were to search?





peter139 said:


> Found the problem already. Replaced the n75, but it didn't help. So the solution was to lubricate my forge diverter valve with some grease. How simple can it be?





Boulderhead said:


> Hi Peter, it sounds like the piston was stuck in the open position if that resolved the issue.. does that sound right? Curious what spring you are running in the DV and how long you have had this in the car and the last time you lubed it. I have Forge 008 and was advised once a year is good.
> 
> Good to hear you got it figured out with a bit of grease


Mine has the 007 DV....I will be doing it this weekend.

So for my stupid question- how exactly do you grease it? :facepalm:


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## JsTT225 (Nov 23, 2012)

Mirror control switch broke, is there any VW that uses the same switch that If I came across one in the local junkyard i could use rather than drop $116 for one at the stealership?


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

For that, and ALL misc parts needed, check the classifieds first for a parted car or random sale, it supports the community and prices are 99% cheaper than anywhere else :thumbup:


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

Converted2VW said:


> Coupe of questions:
> 
> 1. Does anyone know what the MAF output voltage signal is? I've heard 5V
> 2. What is the maximum reading the MAF can output?
> ...


Guess my question wasn't that stupid


----------



## JsTT225 (Nov 23, 2012)

l88m22vette said:


> For that, and ALL misc parts needed, check the classifieds first for a parted car or random sale, it supports the community and prices are 99% cheaper than anywhere else :thumbup:


Those don't last when one goes up for part out.


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

chaldowhiteboy said:


> Thank you :beer:


8ft/lbs actually... hopefully you didn't strip the thread...


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Another reason to buy the Bentley


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## misternoob (Oct 25, 2009)

misternoob said:


> Mine has the 007 DV....I will be doing it this weekend.
> 
> So for my stupid question- how exactly do you grease it? :facepalm:


http://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-(Forge)-Removal-Install-and-Cleaning-for-AWM

http://changegears.wordpress.com/maintenance-information/diy-series-diverter-valve-maintenance/

http://www.customsaab.com/plugins/p2_news/printarticle.php?p2_articleid=14


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

Converted2VW said:


> Guess my question wasn't that stupid


correct readings are from 1.0v to 4.5v, if you have more then 4.5 v it will throw a code for short to positive and is you have less then 1.00v it will throw a code for short to ground.


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

Thanks Audiguy84.

Now my real question: those 2 readings (1.0 and 4.5V) correspond to what air flow? 0 gr/sec and 300 gr/sec?


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

well this is what BMW's go by... as BOTH use bosch ECU's during the 2000's.. but I'm not 100% positive.. BMW now uses conti DME's and they SUCK!!!!!

1.00v = little to no air flow and 4.50V = max readings.... not max air flow as you can flow more air then the sensor is capable of reading


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## Peff (Dec 12, 2012)

*another one*

Ill keep the stuid questions rolling. I have no power to my rear running tail light or the backlight to my insturment panel/cluster. Are these on the same fuse, what should I be looking to fix. Its an 01 TT with 53k miles


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

I had the same issue with my mk4 jetta TDI.. there was a fuse that kept blowing... BUT only when it was cold out... guess my car hated the cold. As for which fuse, sorry don't remember. Start with the ones that conrtol lights


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## Peff (Dec 12, 2012)

Figured it out with the tail light (thats fuse 22 and 23 btw) still no luck with the backlight tho, really cant believe it would be out with 53k miles


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Can I remove my O2 sensor and clean it with a good electronic cleaner if it's going bad?


----------



## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

I have done this on sooty covered sensors with luck but its not a fix for a bad sensor.


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## chaldowhiteboy (Jun 14, 2010)

Does anyone know what this is supposed to be or what is supposed to be connected to it? It's next to the shifter circled in red... (Don't mind the mess)


----------



## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

So I'm interested in running a dual exhaust on my 180 fwd but I know the spare tire is in the way. What is the difference between the spare tire in a 225 and a 180fwd? Are they interchangeable?

Could I possibly cut out the spare wheel well? I'm running 19's in the spring with a drop so I'm not sure a spare would even do me any good, but I wouldn't mind leaving it in the trunk.

Anyone have any advise?


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

chrisc351 said:


> So I'm interested in running a dual exhaust on my 180 fwd but I know the spare tire is in the way. What is the difference between the spare tire in a 225 and a 180fwd? Are they interchangeable?
> 
> Could I possibly cut out the spare wheel well? I'm running 19's in the spring with a drop so I'm not sure a spare would even do me any good, but I wouldn't mind leaving it in the trunk.
> 
> Anyone have any advise?


I'm pretty sure the spare tire is the same in the 180tt and 225tt... only thing you would need is the dual tip rear valance off a 225tt or 3.2tt.... matter of fact if you look at the 42draft designs exaust for the 180tt and 225tt the muffler looks identical with the only differene being the downpipe/cat/midpipe section


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

The 180fwd has a lower trunk then the 180Q or the 225Q...it's not just the spare tire wheel-well. A "normal" dual exhaust muffler will not clear the area...you'd need to do some serious cutting to make room.

cheers.


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

TTC2k5 said:


> The 180fwd has a lower trunk then the 180Q or the 225Q...it's not just the spare tire wheel-well. A "normal" dual exhaust muffler will not clear the area...you'd need to do some serious cutting to make room.
> 
> cheers.


my bad i didn't notice the 42dd exhaust is for the 180q... i used to have a 180 fwd, but i don't remember it being different


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Q trunks are completely flat when the back seats are lowered. FWD trunks dip a couple of inches lower than...two tired.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

chrisc351 said:


> So I'm interested in running a dual exhaust on my 180 fwd but I know the spare tire is in the way. What is the difference between the spare tire in a 225 and a 180fwd? Are they interchangeable?
> 
> Could I possibly cut out the spare wheel well? I'm running 19's in the spring with a drop so I'm not sure a spare would even do me any good, but I wouldn't mind leaving it in the trunk.
> 
> Anyone have any advise?


Cutting a hole in a unibody isn't smart at all if you ask me! I did it in a different car and it required major bracing to keep the structural rigidity of the shell intact. Not worth it for a pointless dual tip look (no performance to be gained from going from a single to a dual exit). My 2 cents!


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

chaldowhiteboy said:


> Does anyone know what this is supposed to be or what is supposed to be connected to it? It's next to the shifter circled in red... (Don't mind the mess)


I would have to believe that is the bleeder for the slave cylinder. Nothing connects to it in that case.


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## chaldowhiteboy (Jun 14, 2010)

Forty-six and 2 said:


> I would have to believe that is the bleeder for the slave cylinder. Nothing connects to it in that case.


You're right, thank you. And apparently there should be a "dust cap" that goes over it according to the Bentley.


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## chaldowhiteboy (Jun 14, 2010)

*catch can question*

would it be best to keep the pcv valve while running a catch can?


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

How likely is it to get some lava wrap from piping caught up in the linkage between the drive shaft and the transmission? :banghead:


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## Rford71 (Sep 1, 2011)

*Audi TT Wheel Spacer / Offset*

I'm looking a buy a set of Porsche 3 Piece Turbo Twist Wheels. The fronts are 18x8.5, no problem there. The rear wheels are 18x10 with a offset of 53. What would the minimum size spacer/adapter I could use with rubbing on the inside fender/suspension?

Using the*Audi TT Wheel Spacer / Offset Calulator, a 20mm spacer/adapter wound put me 2.05 out of the fender but l do not know what it will be on the inside. What size spacer are you guy that are running 10" wheels using?


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## misternoob (Oct 25, 2009)

Is there anything near the thermostat that could be disconnected which would cause an issue with the cluster reading RPMs? 

I replaced the thermostat and now the RPMs arent reading.


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## peter139 (May 4, 2005)

I replaced my oil yesterday. So i was playing with the cluster to set it back.

I found a sort of hidden menu. I'll explain:

-turn ignition on on;
-press the richt pin button in;
-pull on the left pin button;
Now i saw 0000 on the right side above the total distance counter. I could set it to any number. between 0000-9999.

Someone knows what this is?


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## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

So I'm buying a set of ALMS wheels to run for daily wheels, I have a lack of faith in driving with stretched 19" Rotiforms in the city. 

My question is what size spacers to most people run front and back with these wheels to be flush. Do most people use 225/40/18s?

These wheels just for reference, not my car:


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

That's the tire size I'd probably run. How wide are the wheels again? 8"? Or 7.5"


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## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

I'm pretty sure they are 8"s but someone should correct me if I'm wrong, I also think they're et35


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

If that's the case I would do 20mm front and 30mm rear


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Anyone know where I can get some nice 65mm Audi wheel caps? Inside wheel caps at the clips need to be about 63mm-64mm


----------



## 180dan (Apr 4, 2011)

Can someone tell me what the second chamber on our factory cat is for? All aftermarket cats have one small chamber. Is ours a 2 stage cat, each with different functions? Our cats are so damn big. Why?


----------



## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

I was looking into getting a Gonzo stage 2 tune this spring..does anyone else think that 22psi on a K03 seem unsafe?


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## 180dan (Apr 4, 2011)

chrisc351 said:


> I was looking into getting a Gonzo stage 2 tune this spring..does anyone else think that 22psi on a K03 seem unsafe?


You only put the k03 through 22psi when you floor it and let the boost build up. So if you floor it regularly and the car's a daily, your turbo will go faster. But if you drive your car nicely and only build up 22psi occasionally, then you'll be fine. One thing that's nice about Revo stage 2 and the SPS3 is that you can adjust the boost between stock and ~22psi. With Gonzo, it's common sense and the gas pedal.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Didn't want to start a thread for such a stupid question that I could search :facepalm:

Can anyone tell me the size of the feed/return hoses off of our stock fuel rail?


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Sorry I can't help but Max is using this thread  The world must be ending!!


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## drybar (Aug 27, 2011)

What's the most effective way of removing/applying badges from/to any body panel?


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## FatAce (Jan 30, 2012)

I recently blew a line under my intake manifold, weird right..?, and I found the source of the leak. Its coming from what I believe to be a suction pump. I have the AWP motor and the routing of all the piping seems to be a little different then from what I have researched. 

In this diagram I am referencing to part number 058-133-753-B. As pictured it shows the pump without a black rubber coupler which holds it together. Mine had this and it eventually seperated leaving me with three parts, two ends of the pump and the black coupler. When pulled apart there were two orange nipples and a ridge and trough on either side to make it sit correctly. While trying to install it back I could not get it to sit properly leaving me with a leak. I got it to sit flush and sealed it with some glue just to get me home. I don't trust this little home repair job and want to replace the part. I have found them online but I am not sure its the correct part: 

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Suction_Pump/ES252639/

So my official stupid questions are as:

Is this indeed the correct part for the AWP motor?

Also is this one sealed from the factory, or will I need to reuse the coupler?

Thanks


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## FatAce (Jan 30, 2012)

drybar said:


> What's the most effective way of removing/applying badges from/to any body panel?


heat gun or hair dryer and dental floss. heat it up and use the floss to separate the glue from the body panel and the badge. you'll still have a build up of gunk. Use rain-x bug and tar remover and some elbow grease.


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## joe91 (Feb 1, 2013)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Didn't want to start a thread for such a stupid question that I could search :facepalm:
> 
> Can anyone tell me the size of the feed/return hoses off of our stock fuel rail?


i believe its 5/16" so 7.94mm


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## drybar (Aug 27, 2011)

FatAce said:


> heat gun or hair dryer and dental floss. heat it up and use the floss to separate the glue from the body panel and the badge. you'll still have a build up of gunk. Use rain-x bug and tar remover and some elbow grease.


I didn't think it was that easy. Danke:beer:


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## D2O (May 12, 2012)

*N249 Function*

I posted this at the 1.8T page but didn't getting any replies...

I am thinking about deleting the N249, but before I do that I want to know if the ONLY thing it offers it protection for a failed N75 or does it allow the DV to be opened before the intake manifold sees full vacuum (basically ECU knows that you have lifted the throttle and opens the DV before the system enters into vacuum)?


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

D2O said:


> I posted this at the 1.8T page but didn't getting any replies...
> 
> I am thinking about deleting the N249, but before I do that I want to know if the ONLY thing it offers it protection for a failed N75 or does it allow the DV to be opened before the intake manifold sees full vacuum (basically ECU knows that you have lifted the throttle and opens the DV before the system enters into vacuum)?


the n249 can open the dv when in boost to keep it from overboosting in case of a failed n75... once it is removed the dv is on/off only...shuts under boost, opens under vacuum


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

D2O said:


> I posted this at the 1.8T page but didn't getting any replies...
> 
> I am thinking about deleting the N249, but before I do that I want to know if the ONLY thing it offers it protection for a failed N75 or does it allow the DV to be opened before the intake manifold sees full vacuum (basically ECU knows that you have lifted the throttle and opens the DV before the system enters into vacuum)?


ECU doesn't open DV prematurely like you're describing. Deleting the N249 and vac reservoir will actually give you quicker response of the DV which is a good thing.


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## nilreb (Mar 17, 2012)

replacing my oem 225 catback tip to 4" what size is the inlet? 2.5 or 3"


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

nilreb said:


> replacing my oem 225 catback tip to 4" what size is the inlet? 2.5 or 3"


probably closer to 2.5"(i think it's 60mm so like 2.36") but i would crawl under the car and measure to be certain


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## nilreb (Mar 17, 2012)

^^ thanks 

i purchased an SKF Pulley/Roller from Autohausaz to find out 
it's made in China! Any other brand I should buy or a website where I can buy one? 
ECS, GAP?


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

nilreb said:


> ^^ thanks
> 
> i purchased an SKF Pulley/Roller from Autohausaz to find out
> it's made in China! Any other brand I should buy or a website where I can buy one?
> ECS, GAP?


 you can buy a genuine vw/audi pulley on ecs


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## spydox (Apr 4, 2013)

*What is that hinged visor for*

by the inside mirror? 

:sly:


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## drybar (Aug 27, 2011)

To block the sun.


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

And it's awesome. It's just the right height to get the sun out of the eyes at sundown. Love that thing.


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## spydox (Apr 4, 2013)

*curious*



Neb said:


> And it's awesome. It's just the right height to get the sun out of the eyes at sundown. Love that thing.


 I'll have to try it if some day Im actually driving east around 6PM


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## drybar (Aug 27, 2011)

Neb said:


> And it's awesome. It's just the right height to get the sun out of the eyes at sundown. Love that thing.


 I wish I had one. I have Home-Link instead and the bump does nothing


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

drybar said:


> To block the sun.


 It's actually to block map lights from reflecting in your rearview and distracting other drivers, but it works great for blocking the sun in the gap between the rearview and roof. :laugh: Yeah, my 02 has Homelink too. :screwy:


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## spydox (Apr 4, 2013)

*Convertible top microswitch*

How do I remove/replace this switch? I see the lever but not the switch, Its not apparent how to remove it... Mine is flaky.


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

20v master said:


> *It's actually to block map lights from reflecting in your rearview and distracting other drivers,* but it works great for blocking the sun in the gap between the rearview and roof. :laugh: Yeah, my 02 has Homelink too. :screwy:


 :what::what: You jest, right? :laugh::laugh: 

From the owner's manual: "A small additional sun visor in the center can be pulled down to cover the gap above the rear-view mirror. 

cheers


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## drybar (Aug 27, 2011)

TTC2k5 said:


> :what::what: You jest, right? :laugh::laugh:
> 
> From the owner's manual: "A small additional sun visor in the center can be pulled down to cover the gap above the rear-view mirror.
> 
> cheers


 Pffft... Who read's the manual?!:screwy:


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

drybar said:


> Pffft... Who read's the manual?!:screwy:


 Reading is good for everyone cuz it's a good method for trying to keep the number of stupid answers in check...this is supposed to be a stupid question thread, remember. Stupid answer thread is another. :laugh: 

cheers


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

TTC2k5 said:


> Reading is good for everyone cuz it's a good method for trying to keep the number of stupid answers in check...this is supposed to be a stupid question thread, remember. Stupid answer thread is another. :laugh:
> 
> cheers


 Remember the whole reason of this thread was because the op didn't want to buy a Bentley....which involved reading lol. Coincidence?


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## spydox (Apr 4, 2013)

*how many teeth are on the wind deflector belt?*

I'm trying to find compatible belts from other sources. Mine is too disintegrated to count teeth- does anyone know how many teeth are on this belt? 

Thanks!


----------



## spydox (Apr 4, 2013)

*Buying a Manual*

I'm seeing al sorts of CD/DVD MK1 TT manuals on EBAY for like $10-20. Good investment?


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

spydox said:


> I'm seeing al sorts of CD/DVD MK1 TT manuals on EBAY for like $10-20. Good investment?


 If you like lugging your laptop out to the garage and don't mind using it with dirty hands. :laugh::thumbdown:


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

spydox said:


> I'm seeing al sorts of CD/DVD MK1 TT manuals on EBAY for like $10-20. Good investment?


 Get the book. Or I'll send you my cd for $10 because unless you have windows xp its useless.


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## spydox (Apr 4, 2013)

20v master said:


> If you like lugging your laptop out to the garage and don't mind using it with dirty hands. :laugh::thumbdown:


 the laptop is ALREADY in the garage- gotta plug the VAG cable into something!


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## nilreb (Mar 17, 2012)

i'm new to this stuff. and i got this pump last year from https://www.germanautosupply.com/ 
looks like there's rust is this ok?


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Looks like surface rust from sitting. Try cleaning it off


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

spydox said:


> the laptop is ALREADY in the garage- gotta plug the VAG cable into something!


 Eh, I find it annoying to use a laptop to look up the information in a Bentley as opposed to leafing through the book, but to each his own. 



nilreb said:


> looks like there's rust is this ok?


 Won't hurt anything.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

20v master said:


> Eh, I find it annoying to use a laptop to look up the information in a Bentley as opposed to leafing through the book, but to each his own.


You mean you dont like the useless search thats worse than this sites search?:laugh:


----------



## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

20v master said:


> Eh, I find it annoying to use a laptop to look up the information in a Bentley as opposed to leafing through the book, but to each his own.
> 
> 
> 
> Won't hurt anything.


This. Plus I dont' feel bad getting greas/oil/dirt on my bentley


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

I like having a Bentley with a bunch of marks, they show how I repeatedly have not paid someone to do a job I can do :thumbup:


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

l88m22vette said:


> I like having a Bentley with a bunch of marks, they show how I repeatedly have not paid someone to do a job I can do :thumbup:


This ^^^^. Every grease smudged page is $$ in the bank.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Neb said:


> This. Plus I dont' feel bad getting greas/oil/dirt on my bentley


I would agree with this 100%


----------



## SteveCJr (Aug 3, 2008)

Another stupid question because I don't feel like digging out the owner's manual.

A while back I hit some sequence of buttons, not sure which, but the car would automatically lock itself after a few minutes of being unlocked. I think it was around 10-15 minutes. Which makes sense if you happen to forget to lock the car, the car would do it for you. And some how that same day i undid what I did, again no clue how. 

How is this done?


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## SteveCJr (Aug 3, 2008)

chrisc351 said:


> So I'm buying a set of ALMS wheels to run for daily wheels, I have a lack of faith in driving with stretched 19" Rotiforms in the city.
> 
> My question is what size spacers to most people run front and back with these wheels to be flush. Do most people use 225/40/18s?


My ALMS came with 235/35/18 which is what I run without issue.


----------



## SteveCJr (Aug 3, 2008)

peter139 said:


> I replaced my oil yesterday. So i was playing with the cluster to set it back.
> 
> I found a sort of hidden menu. I'll explain:
> 
> ...


Maybe it's the service indicator interval letting you set the distance you want before it goes off. /shrug


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Clutch sometimes slips in third gear (moderate acceleration, not floored) and it's got me worried. All clutch plates I've found are pricey, so I'm posing more of an "opinion" question rather than a stupid question:

Which clutch should I get? I dont have a lot of power and never will put a lot of power into the car (it's just tuned). It's also my daily but that doesn't mean I dont like to have fun from time to time. I put a lot of city miles on her. I'd rather not have a loud clutch, one that wont last me 20+ years, or one that makes shifting a pain since I get caught up in traffic frequently.

First-hand experiences are most welcomed :beer:


----------



## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

Would a rip in my downpipe right before the flex just after the turbo cause it to have a boost leak. I know it comes after the turbo but it seems to be leaking.


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

chrisc351 said:


> Would a rip in my downpipe right before the flex just after the turbo cause it to have a boost leak. I know it comes after the turbo but it seems to be leaking.


A rip in the down pipe not in the flex section? Not sure if that's possible but it would cause an exhaust leak


----------



## 180dan (Apr 4, 2011)

What is the harness plug for located behind the brake light access door in the trunk. Trailer brake light?


----------



## SteveCJr (Aug 3, 2008)

Is it correct when saying that the N249 valve opens the dv is the ecu deems necessary? And by deleting this would it prevent the ecu from opening it? Anyone know where there is a decent right up on how to remove said valve?


----------



## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

SteveCJr said:


> Is it correct when saying that the N249 valve opens the dv is the ecu deems necessary? And by deleting this would it prevent the ecu from opening it? Anyone know where there is a decent right up on how to remove said valve?


Yes the n249 controls DV And allows the computer to open it but is also controls boost through keeping the dv "cracked" at part throttle and allows the computer to better control boost pressure on the fast spooling little turbo. By deleting it you gain faster acting dv because its ran directly off of manifold pressure but in doing so your deleting a safety feature built into the computer. 


Sent from my postoffice using a carrier pigeon


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## drybar (Aug 27, 2011)

I didn't buy my TT for it's safety features. Off with the N249!:laugh:


----------



## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

Ok this is sort of a stupid question or its probably been gone over so ill put it here. I have a racewire solutions harness and a wideband ECU with an Immo ( and vin from the car it was in ) I've been waiting to swap in my car all i need is software and a o2 sensor

. I think i have 2 options.
1.) maestro ( i already spent a dumb amount of money on my ccws so i don't want to lay out 800+ dollars right now and there really hard to find used.
2.) can i just send my ECU to a tuner and spec it for a BEA or will i have problems with VVT and the EGT sensor? 
2.5.) buy a narrowband chipped ECU immo defeated for cheap and call it a day? 
I guess in looking for opinions/ options on what i should do lol thanks guys 


Sent from my postoffice using a carrier pigeon


----------



## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

Ok this is sort of a stupid question or its probably been gone over so ill put it here. I have a racewire solutions harness and a wideband ECU with an Immo ( and vin from the car it was in ) I've been waiting to swap in my car all i need is software and a o2 sensor

. I think i have 2 options.
1.) maestro ( i already spent a dumb amount of money on my ccws so i don't want to lay out 800+ dollars right now and there really hard to find used.
2.) can i just send my ECU to a tuner and spec it for a BEA or will i have problems with VVT and the EGT sensor? 
2.5.) buy a narrowband chipped ECU immo defeated for cheap and call it a day? 
Will i miss anything not being wideband even with just the ko4. I guess im looking for opinions/ options on what i should do lol thanks guys 


Sent from my postoffice using a carrier pigeon


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

racin2redline said:


> Ok this is sort of a stupid question or its probably been gone over so ill put it here. I have a racewire solutions harness and a wideband ECU with an Immo ( and vin from the car it was in ) I've been waiting to swap in my car all i need is software and a o2 sensor
> 
> . I think i have 2 options.
> 1.) maestro ( i already spent a dumb amount of money on my ccws so i don't want to lay out 800+ dollars right now and there really hard to find used.
> ...


Depends on what your plans are. If you are staying stock turbo, there's no need to upgrade to wideband unless you want to be able to log AFR from VAG COM. There are well developed files out there for AMU, and you won't gain any performance by switching to a wideband o2 sensor.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> Clutch sometimes slips in third gear (moderate acceleration, not floored) and it's got me worried. All clutch plates I've found are pricey, so I'm posing more of an "opinion" question rather than a stupid question:
> 
> Which clutch should I get? I dont have a lot of power and never will put a lot of power into the car (it's just tuned). It's also my daily but that doesn't mean I dont like to have fun from time to time. I put a lot of city miles on her. I'd rather not have a loud clutch, one that wont last me 20+ years, or one that makes shifting a pain since I get caught up in traffic frequently.
> 
> First-hand experiences are most welcomed :beer:


I don't get your comment of not wanting a clutch that'll last 20 years, I wish mine would last that long! :laugh: Sounds like OEM/stock is what you want.


----------



## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

20v master said:


> Depends on what your plans are. If you are staying stock turbo, there's no need to upgrade to wideband unless you want to be able to log AFR from VAG COM. There are well developed files out there for AMU, and you won't gain any performance by switching to a wideband o2 sensor.


Yeah I can't beat direct plug and play for a tune right now. I guess ill save the wideband swap until a maestro pops up in the classifieds again lol. My plans are like anyone else's. spend money at a steady pace without becoming completely broke  


Sent from my postoffice using a carrier pigeon


----------



## Tempes_TT (Oct 24, 2010)

So I got my hands on some vf motor mounts, but they came with no hardware. For some reason I cant get myself to figure out what size bolts I need for either the right side or the left... :facepalm:

Anyone willing to help me out?


----------



## tt92103 (Nov 23, 2010)

*Stupid parking light question*

My front driver-side parking light is out. I removed the light and looked at it and the filament appears to be intact. So I put it back, still no parking light. I took it out again and measured the bulb with a DMM it reads open (infinite resistance). How could it read open if the filament is intact??
Ok, so I will get a new bulb (H6W)...
Next problem, when I put the bulb assembly thing back in the hole, how much should I be able to turn it? From what I read elsewhere on a light-changing tutorial it should be inserted and turned CW 1/4 turn but I can only turn it about 1/30th of a turn. It feels like if it turn it anymore it will break. Should I go ahead and force it 1/4 turn? (After I get the new bulb).


----------



## The Marty Show (Jul 28, 2011)

Stretching tires, why?

Sent from my Galaxy S lll using Red Tapatalk 2


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## H_C (May 4, 2007)

tt92103 said:


> My front driver-side parking light is out. I removed the light and looked at it and the filament appears to be intact. So I put it back, still no parking light. I took it out again and measured the bulb with a DMM it reads open (infinite resistance). How could it read open if the filament is intact??
> Ok, so I will get a new bulb (H6W)...
> Next problem, when I put the bulb assembly thing back in the hole, how much should I be able to turn it? From what I read elsewhere on a light-changing tutorial it should be inserted and turned CW 1/4 turn but I can only turn it about 1/30th of a turn. It feels like if it turn it anymore it will break. Should I go ahead and force it 1/4 turn? (After I get the new bulb).


Whenever I replace bulbs I've noticed they look like they are still good too but if I hold them up to the new bulb they are a bit darker. Also, they should make the 1/4 turn otherwise they might fall out. If you look around the base of the bulb it has 2 little dimples on either side and those are designed to hold the bulb in place. Check for debree in the socket, maybe the old bulb left something in there. Give it a burst of air to clean it out, just an idea.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Tempes_TT said:


> So I got my hands on some vf motor mounts, but they came with no hardware. For some reason I cant get myself to figure out what size bolts I need for either the right side or the left... :facepalm:
> 
> Anyone willing to help me out?


I can measure my set this weekend if you can wait. Otherwise call VF.


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

The Marty Show said:


> Stretching tires, why?
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy S lll using Red Tapatalk 2


So you can fit a wider or more aggressive fitment wheel under the arch without rubbing.


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Neb said:


> So you can fit a wider or more aggressive fitment wheel under the arch without rubbing.


And to be hella cool and make everyone on here hate you :laugh:


----------



## H_C (May 4, 2007)

So I have a couple questions about my keyless remote. First, I bought my car used and it only came with one so *is there a cheaper way than going through the dealership?*

I found one here
http://www.yourkeylessremote.com/in...gory_id=4628&product_type=0&vmcchk=1&Itemid=3
where Audi keys are like 60 bucks but if you notice the TT keys are way more at like 150.

Second question
My the battery in my current remote started to go out (would only work sometimes) and so I took it apart to see what battery I needed to get and it actually has two CR1620 's in it. I looked in a couple different stores, home depot, target, walgreens, and none of them had it. They mostly have CR20XX's. Is my remote using the right key in the first place? I found some on amazon.com but I just wanted to make sure before I ordered them.

Last question
I think this is because my remote is going out but sometimes when I start my car it does the initial rev and then instead of dropping down to idle it just dies. I've noticed it does this randomly and it doesn't really matter if its hot or cold. It will do this once or a bunch of times and it seems like when i take the key out and mash some buttons it starts up after that. I'm hoping its just the remote but could this be something more like my starter?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

PLAYED TT said:


> And to be hella cool and make everyone on here hate you :laugh:


I think the ratio of Hella-coolers > the said haters nowadays! :laugh:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> I think the ratio of Hella-coolers > the said haters nowadays! :laugh:


Technically, if you go by his signature and his car, James is both. :laugh:


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

20v master said:


> Technically, if you go by his signature and his car, James is both. :laugh:


**** now I don't know how to categorize myself:sly: :laugh:


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

H_C said:


> So I have a couple questions about my keyless remote. First, I bought my car used and it only came with one so *is there a cheaper way than going through the dealership?*
> 
> I found one here
> http://www.yourkeylessremote.com/in...gory_id=4628&product_type=0&vmcchk=1&Itemid=3
> ...


The battery in mine is a cr2320 (I think). Start with a fresh battery and see if that helps.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

H_C said:


> So I have a couple questions about my keyless remote. First, I bought my car used and it only came with one so *is there a cheaper way than going through the dealership?*
> 
> I found one here
> http://www.yourkeylessremote.com/in...gory_id=4628&product_type=0&vmcchk=1&Itemid=3
> ...


1) Call a locksmith. One of my good friend own's his own business, and all he does is high security Immobilizer car keys, private and for used car lots/repo lots, because the dealership prices are outrageous and no one else does the work.

2) My 02's remote had two of the CR1620's also. Find a Battery's Plus store, they sell only batteries obviously (lawn mower, hearing aids, car remotes, any hard to find battery). They're ~$5 each and, they even have a receiver that will tell you if the remote is transmitting. The problem then becomes the remote isn't coded to the car, which can be done with VAG COM if have one or if you can find someone locally that does.

3) Sounds like a fuel flow problem. I'd wager the fuel filter is original and has never been changed and is slowing the pressurizing of the rail during priming/startup. It sounds like it has nothing to do with the starter or the remote.


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## Tempes_TT (Oct 24, 2010)

20v master said:


> I can measure my set this weekend if you can wait. Otherwise call VF.


Dude, that would be super cool of you. :beer: Ill be tackling my TB job this weekend and Ill be replacing them than. I think I MAY have found a set of bolts for the motor mount as I forgot I bought a TB kit a long time ago with a bunch of extra goodies in there. Surprised myself when I opened it up tonight!


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

How safe is it to dyno your car?
http://screen.yahoo.com/shelby-gt500-destroys-dyno-192116431.html


:laugh:


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## Tempes_TT (Oct 24, 2010)

Is the nipple off the throttle body a safe/usable vacuum source for lets say the DV or a boost gauge, or is it best kept capped off? (evap delete was done) :sly:


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> How safe is it to dyno your car?
> http://screen.yahoo.com/shelby-gt500-destroys-dyno-192116431.html
> 
> 
> :laugh:


Poor car


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## misternoob (Oct 25, 2009)

Tempes_TT said:


> Is the nipple off the throttle body a safe/usable vacuum source for lets say the DV or a boost gauge, or is it best kept capped off? (evap delete was done) :sly:


When I had my delete done on the GTI I had it capped and ran the boost gauge off the FPR. Never thought about using it as a spot for the boost gauge though.


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## Tempes_TT (Oct 24, 2010)

misternoob said:


> When I had my delete done on the GTI I had it capped and ran the boost gauge off the FPR. Never thought about using it as a spot for the boost gauge though.


Yeah, every DIY Ive read so far has it capped off with no mention of it being usable, but I wouldn't see why not. Id rather not split my fpr or the DV. So yeeeeeah...


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## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

Does anybody else have a forge big knob. Mine keeps eating my shift boots -_- its really making me mad ive went through 2 new boots since i put it on! What gives 


Sent from my postoffice using a carrier pigeon


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## misternoob (Oct 25, 2009)

racin2redline said:


> Does anybody else have a forge big knob. Mine keeps eating my shift boots -_- its really making me mad ive went through 2 new boots since i put it on! What gives
> 
> 
> Sent from my postoffice using a carrier pigeon


I do...I cant see how it would do that? Pictures?


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## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

Ill get some later. It keeps ripping right at the base of the knob makes me mad because i really like the knob and boot combo 
Edit :










IMO the only other option than the boot would be a gaited shifter ... Doesn't someone on here make them?
Sent from my postoffice using a carrier pigeon


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## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

racin2redline said:


> Does anybody else have a forge big knob. Mine keeps eating my shift boots -_- its really making me mad ive went through 2 new boots since i put it on! What gives
> 
> 
> Sent from my postoffice using a carrier pigeon


Guess I'm the only one wtf makes no sense.now i has to look at another ripped boot because i don't want to spent 70 on a new one 


Sent from my postoffice using a carrier pigeon


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

racin2redline said:


> IMO the only other option than the boot would be a gaited shifter ... Doesn't someone on here make them?
> Sent from my postoffice using a carrier pigeon


The gated shifters you speak of (that Charlie in the UK made) do not work with the Forge Big knob. The knob comes down too far on the shaft so it rubs and scrapes the shift-gate.


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

racin2redline said:


> Guess I'm the only one wtf makes no sense.now i has to look at another ripped boot because i don't want to spent 70 on a new one
> 
> 
> Sent from my postoffice using a carrier pigeon


I have one, which has been on for 6+ months.. No boots eaten on mine, and I love the forge knob over stock.. Feels much better except when it soaks up direct sunlight and gets uber hot


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## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

TTC2k5 said:


> The gated shifters you speak of (that Charlie in the UK made) do not work with the Forge Big knob. The knob comes down too far on the shaft so it rubs and scrapes the shift-gate.


The forge knob is adjustable on the shaft.i believe so you can set the height so I'm definitely interested in that gate if you know any more info! And boulder the forge big knob is by far the best  i love it 


Sent from my postoffice using a carrier pigeon


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Charlie doesn't make them any more. There are maybe 2 dozen in the states and they occasionally come up for sale. 

But, if you find one, and buy it, and install the forge knob....you will be the first ever to make it work.  Plus, it will look like ass...picture the big knob on the shaft with no boot. That skinny little shaft with a big-ass knob at the top....not a pretty sight.

Good luck with the search.

cheers


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## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

TTC2k5 said:


> Charlie doesn't make them any more. There are maybe 2 dozen in the states and they occasionally come up for sale.
> 
> But, if you find one, and buy it, and install the forge knob....you will be the first ever to make it work.  Plus, it will look like ass...picture the big knob on the shaft with no boot. That skinny little shaft with a big-ass knob at the top....not a pretty sight.
> 
> ...


Hey man I'm jw .. Hence the "stupid question thread" 


Sent from my postoffice using a carrier pigeon


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## Dark Zero (Feb 17, 2005)

I'm looking to upgrade to Aero arms eventually. Does anyone know if the R32 (04) ones are the same as the TT Aero arms or are the TT ones specific to the TT? I know that the Passat (B5.5) are supposedly different and actually have different part #s vs the R32.


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## H_C (May 4, 2007)

Why is the glove box latch so expensive? Its like 100 bucks for the just the latch part. 

I usually keep mine locked since its a convertible and I was giving a co-worker a ride to lunch today and he is like "ooo cool car" so of course he has to start pushing and pulling all my controls. Well, he grabs the glove box latch and it doesn't, so he pull a little harder. Pop. Off comes the latch. BUT, upon further inspection I can see the latch has already been repaired before with some epoxy so it was pretty weak already. The latch to hold it from falling all the way down is busted off too so I might just replace to whole thing since its only 200 for the whole assembly.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

To answer your question with another question...Why is the coupe parcel shelf $400? Because Audi.


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## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

I just don't touch the glovebox lol they are a terrible design being the aluminum handle mounts on 2 tiny plastic posts

I repaired my old one using some epoxy and a metal set screw it worked pretty good
A entire new glovebox is 700+ dollars 


Sent from my postoffice using a carrier pigeon


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## Checkers10160 (Jun 4, 2013)

I'm about to go APR Stage 1 on my TT, which is otherwise stock. There's a Relentless DP not far from me for around $100, and I know a shop who will do it for a couple hundred, which I'm considering doing. Should I do that, or get a Neuspeed RSB to help with the understeer? I'll probably be happy with the extra power from the tune, but I can't help but want to go faster!

I've also heard the DP can be a huge pain in the ass due to seized or broken bolts, so I'm thinking the RSB might be better. Any suggestions?

EDIT: If anyone is near Putnam/Westchester County New York and is comfortable doing a DP in exchange for beer/food/gas, I'd be a huge help to a new Audi owner! That'd also make my decision because the labor at a shop is what's going to be the real cost


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## misternoob (Oct 25, 2009)

Checkers10160 said:


> I'm about to go APR Stage 1 on my TT, which is otherwise stock. There's a Relentless DP not far from me for around $100, and I know a shop who will do it for a couple hundred, which I'm considering doing. Should I do that, or get a Neuspeed RSB to help with the understeer? I'll probably be happy with the extra power from the tune, but I can't help but want to go faster!
> 
> I've also heard the DP can be a huge pain in the ass due to seized or broken bolts, so I'm thinking the RSB might be better. Any suggestions?
> 
> EDIT: If anyone is near Putnam/Westchester County New York and is comfortable doing a DP in exchange for beer/food/gas, I'd be a huge help to a new Audi owner! That'd also make my decision because the labor at a shop is what's going to be the real cost


Do the downpipe. I did it on my GTI with APR Stage 1...It was awesome and sounded great.
I have one waiting for install or selling it (whichever comes first)


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## Vegas-RoadsTTer (Mar 17, 2013)

*Unfortunately, the glove latch was not designed to be repaired*



H_C said:


> Why is the glove box latch so expensive? Its like 100 bucks for the just the latch part.


Don't know where you found a quote for a latch because that's a first for me. As someone else posted, the only Audi OEM solution is a new box for $700+, thus the reason why folks have done self-repairs. Search here a Quattroworld for DIY repairs.


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## Checkers10160 (Jun 4, 2013)

misternoob said:


> Do the downpipe. I did it on my GTI with APR Stage 1...It was awesome and sounded great.
> I have one waiting for install or selling it (whichever comes first)


Alright, thanks. I'm Just Worried Because I've Heard It's A Pretty Hard Job. Did You Do Yours Yourself?


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## misternoob (Oct 25, 2009)

Checkers10160 said:


> Alright, thanks. I'm Just Worried Because I've Heard It's A Pretty Hard Job. Did You Do Yours Yourself?


Nope, I took it to a local shop. $80 and I was out the door in less than 2 hours.


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## H_C (May 4, 2007)

Vegas-RoadsTTer said:


> Don't know where you found a quote for a latch because that's a first for me. As someone else posted, the only Audi OEM solution is a new box for $700+, thus the reason why folks have done self-repairs. Search here a Quattroworld for DIY repairs.


You can get latches on ebay for around 100 bucks. I'm guessing some of them are already repaired latches though :S


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## Checkers10160 (Jun 4, 2013)

misternoob said:


> Nope, I took it to a local shop. $80 and I was out the door in less than 2 hours.


They only charge $40 an hour? That's incredible, I wanna go there!

EDIT: This is for sale not far from me for $150. Is this all I need, or do I need something else so it fits into the stock exhaust?


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## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

Anybody know where to get OEM euro all red tails? Or have a way I can make mine all red? 


Sent from my postoffice using a carrier pigeon


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Single mass flywheel, 28 teeth, SACHS, $300. I know cheap, reliable, and fast can't all be in the same place at once, but isn't this decent? I'm just worried that it's reliable and not too loud. I think I read somewhere single mass flywheels are often louder with more gear/transmission noise being heard

http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...tch+Kit+2001&gclid=COWpg7aflrgCFedZ7AodqD4AqA


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## misternoob (Oct 25, 2009)

Checkers10160 said:


> They only charge $40 an hour? That's incredible, I wanna go there!
> 
> EDIT: This is for sale not far from me for $150. Is this all I need, or do I need something else so it fits into the stock exhaust?


Haha thats from my ad :thumbup:

EDIT: Yea it would be if you were a 180Q. But you have the much more awesomer 225Q.


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## Checkers10160 (Jun 4, 2013)

misternoob said:


> Haha thats from my ad :thumbup:
> 
> EDIT: Yea it would be if you were a 180Q. But you have the much more awesomer 225Q.


Haha, seriously? I think we even spoke through e-mail about it, that's hilarious. Since I'm not too far from you, would you mind giving me the name of the shop that did yours? I know mine is more complicated but if they could do it for around $150 I'd still be pretty happy.

Also, do you know anything about Eurotech Motorsports? I'm headed there Tuesday for a Stage 1 tune


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## H_C (May 4, 2007)

*Fuel Return line*

tl;dr How hard is it to replace the fuel return line? (from the filter to the tank)


So I was replacing the filter and the screw little bracket that was holding it on is pretty much just a little pile of rust and so I wasn't able to undo the bracket all the way without just clipping it off (which I might do, is that hard to replace?). I was able to undo the front of my fuel filter no problem but I couldn't slide it out the back of the clamp to get a better angle on the back quick release clip thing. Being the clutz that I am with the addition of the bad angle I broke the clamp. I've done a couple searches and the only price I got to replace the fuel return line was 2,000 which seems ridiculous. I can see that I'll probably have to lower the fuel tank to get access to it but that shouldn't be too hard right? 
I would try and do it myself but I only have jack stands and no lift so I couldn't lower the tank and replace it that way. From this DIY replacement guide for the fuel pump it looks like i might be able to just unplug the line on the top and then just try and fish it through or are there too many clamps or clips holding the line it place to do that?

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=1951856

Or is there a way to just replace the quick release clamp on the end? That would be the easiest.


----------



## H_C (May 4, 2007)

H_C said:


> tl;dr How hard is it to replace the fuel return line? (from the filter to the tank)
> 
> 
> So I was replacing the filter and the screw little bracket that was holding it on is pretty much just a little pile of rust and so I wasn't able to undo the bracket all the way without just clipping it off (which I might do, is that hard to replace?). I was able to undo the front of my fuel filter no problem but I couldn't slide it out the back of the clamp to get a better angle on the back quick release clip thing. Being the clutz that I am with the addition of the bad angle I broke the clamp. I've done a couple searches and the only price I got to replace the fuel return line was 2,000 which seems ridiculous. I can see that I'll probably have to lower the fuel tank to get access to it but that shouldn't be too hard right?
> ...


Nevermind
I just found the perfect guide. Looks like I have a project for the weekend

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3880180-DIY-Fuel-Line-Repair


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...k=Search_C0289_1361315_458&pt=C0289&ppt=C0023


Can you skip changing the filter every other oil change because of its double capacity for those larger oil change intervals?


----------



## DaMenace (Nov 1, 2008)

Hey guys, 

I am going on a 4 hour drive tomorrow morning. I am looking to buy an 2000 Audi TT with 86,000 miles. I was wondering, is this car a good car? Is it reliable or did it have problems? is it fun to drive? Is it an ok car? I just want a little of personal opinions on this car before I buy it tomorrow.

Thanks in advance


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

DaMenace said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I am going on a 4 hour drive tomorrow morning. I am looking to buy an 2000 Audi TT with 86,000 miles. I was wondering, is this car a good car? Is it reliable or did it have problems? is it fun to drive? Is it an ok car? I just want a little of personal opinions on this car before I buy it tomorrow.
> 
> Thanks in advance


It's 13 yrs old.
It has 86K miles.
It's german.

But to your questions: maybe, sometimes, of course, absolutely, maybe.

See the FAQ sticky on page one for more detailed answers.

cheers and good luck.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

TTC2k5 said:


> It's 13 yrs old.
> It has 86K miles.
> It's german.
> 
> ...


Couldn't have said it better myself. 



Just wondering is a TT more reliable and more fun than my 2001 Honda Civic yo? :laugh: :sly: :banghead:


----------



## mdjenkins (Feb 16, 2010)

I am going to be refreshing my rear suspension soon. For the stock rear control arms, Is there an easy/cheaper way to replace the rubber without replacing the entire control arm?


----------



## Radfish (Nov 17, 2012)

*'Running Lights' on '03 TTQ*

OK, I'll play! My current '03 225 Coupe is my third TT ('01 225 Coupe, '04 225 Roadster), but a couple of Minis in between have seriously confused me and I can't figure this one out..... What running lights should be on when I turn the light switch to the first stop? Thanks!!!


----------



## H_C (May 4, 2007)

Does anyone have an experience with chipping and California Emissions? I want to get specifically the Unitronic Stage 1 or Stage 1+ done but wouldn't bother if I can get it to pass SMOG


----------



## chaldowhiteboy (Jun 14, 2010)

H_C said:


> Does anyone have an experience with chipping and California Emissions? I want to get specifically the Unitronic Stage 1 or Stage 1+ done but wouldn't bother if I can get it to pass SMOG


You can get away with coding out all of your emissions from your ECU but the problem is that there is a VISUAL inspection required in cali as well with the computer test.


----------



## H_C (May 4, 2007)

What kind of spark plugs do you prefer? Iridium or platinum (or even copper)?

Also, on a completely unrelated note, where should I get a good floor jack? Are the cheap ones at HF any good? I borrowed one from a friend this last weekend and it could just get my car up to fit on the first notch of the jack stand so I could barely fit my head under the car. Not very comfortable to work like that.


----------



## SteveCJr (Aug 3, 2008)

It's been so long since i've replaced my spark plugs I've forgotten which ones to get.


----------



## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

Can I use the 42DD High Flow Intake on my 180 fwd?


----------



## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)

While looking for vacuum leaks I busted a nipple off the n112 valve. Can I bypass this and eliminate it? If so, write up? 

Thanks


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

H_C said:


> What kind of spark plugs do you prefer? Iridium or platinum (or even copper)?
> 
> Also, on a completely unrelated note, where should I get a good floor jack? Are the cheap ones at HF any good? I borrowed one from a friend this last weekend and it could just get my car up to fit on the first notch of the jack stand so I could barely fit my head under the car. Not very comfortable to work like that.


 Iridiums last longer. Go with them and check your gaps each time you change your oil. 


The jacks at HF are no good. My granddad picked one up for me while I was out of town and it dropped the car a good 2 inches each time trying to steadily lower the car. Put in the money for a jack since it's going to be saving you money in the long run. :thumbup:


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

H_C said:


> ..
> Also, on a completely unrelated note, where should I get a good floor jack? Are the cheap ones at HF any good? I borrowed one from a friend this last weekend and it could just get my car up to fit on the first notch of the jack stand so I could barely fit my head under the car. Not very comfortable to work like that.


 I've had this one for almost 3 years. works great every time. no issues. 
http://www.harborfreight.com/compact-aluminum-racing-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-15-tons-69252.html 
I think it's like a lot of low priced items...sometimes you get crap, some time you get good stuff. Buy one. if it is crap it will act up immediately or within a couple of uses...then, take it back. 

Anyway, it's not like your going to work under the car while its on a $90 jack or a $900 jack, right?  

cheers.


----------



## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

Who makes/sells silicone coolant hose kit for the AMU 225 ? Can't seem to find one there all for the BEA


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

racin2redline said:


> Who makes/sells silicone coolant hose kit for the AMU 225 ? Can't seem to find one there all for the BEA


 034 maybe?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

stevecjr said:


> it's been so long since i've replaced my spark plugs i've forgotten which ones to get.


 ngk bkr7e


----------



## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)

In the process of performing the SAI delete. I removed the silver canister and the tube to the block. 
I mounted the block off plate. 
Im a little lost on where to go from here. 

Iver read quite a few of the DIY threads but the ones I have found are for evac as well. Im just removing the SAI at this point. 

Is there a DIY for only the SAI removal?


----------



## Letter K (Jan 8, 2011)

why dont we have a sticky that has a how to compilation of how to delete the evap/n249/vacuum lines/ and or sai. 

i can read the threads all day in the 1.8T forums, not only are all the pictures broken for me but all those vacuum routing systems are AWP and i feel the AMU is a world apart as far as where things are mounted and routed.


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## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)

I figured it out. 
AMU really isnt complicated at all but its definitely not what Ive read in the write ups that I could find. 
Remove the Combi valve. 
Remove the combi valve hard line to the block. 
Install block off plate. 
Remove the three bolts holding the SAI pump to the bracket 
Cut the bracket to remove the SAI pump. 
Remove the three bolts holding the SAI pump bracket to the motor. 
Remove the two hard plastic lines that were routed from the SAI pump. 
Tape up the wiring plug that was connected to the SAI pump. 
If you have not removed the N249 hosing then you need to cap off the N112 valve.


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## misternoob (Oct 25, 2009)

*All Terrain Tires*

Stupid question: 

What size all terrain tires can I throw on the TT(17" wheels). How can I go about raising the car? Crazy and stupid I know.


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

There was a thread about rallying the TT a while back. If you can find it there may be some info on it.


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

Does anyone make 996/911 caliper adapters? I have seen the Boxster adapters, but that's all. I already have the caliper set, so that's my reason for not just going with the Boxster brakes.


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## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

Forty-six and 2 said:


> Does anyone make 996/911 caliper adapters? I have seen the Boxster adapters, but that's all. I already have the caliper set, so that's my reason for not just going with the Boxster brakes.


 X2 and does anyone have any information on using the rear calipers from a cayenne ?


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## H_C (May 4, 2007)

I've noticed from pictures that other peoples LCD readout have different stuff on it that mine. How do I change what it says?
From top to bottom mine has the radio station, temp outside, and an estimate of how many miles left of gas I have.

I found a little button on the bottom of the wiper control stick (what is that actually called) that turns off the lcd but I don't know what it does besides that.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

H_C said:


> I've noticed from pictures that other peoples LCD readout have different stuff on it that mine. How do I change what it says?
> From top to bottom mine has the radio station, temp outside, and an estimate of how many miles left of gas I have.
> 
> I found a little button on the bottom of the wiper control stick (what is that actually called) that turns off the lcd but I don't know what it does besides that.


Yes, button on the bottom of the wiper stalk turns off the display. The two buttons on the end of the wiper stalk cycle through the different readouts. Holding the button on the bottom resets average mph, average mpg, and timer.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

20v master said:


> Yes, button on the bottom of the wiper stalk turns off the display. The two buttons on the end of the wiper stalk cycle through the different readouts. Holding the button on the bottom resets average mph, average mpg, and timer.


Its too bad its not a true on/off switch, it comes back one everytime you start it back up


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## illestkid (May 7, 2012)

Im planning to go Unitronic stage 2. i currently have intake and Forge 008 DV next is the 42dd turbo back. Once i get the tbe im gonna get the chip. My question is what would be the benefits of upgrading the intake manifold? do you get any gains? im completely new and try to learn as much as possible


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## nilreb (Mar 17, 2012)

I'm buying a MAF sensor. Do I really need to buy it with the housing?


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

illestkid said:


> Im planning to go Unitronic stage 2. i currently have intake and Forge 008 DV next is the 42dd turbo back. Once i get the tbe im gonna get the chip. My question is what would be the benefits of upgrading the intake manifold? do you get any gains? im completely new and try to learn as much as possible


I wouldn't bother until/if you're going to get a bigger turbo. The gains on the stock turbo will be minimal and definitely not worth the cost of a new intake manifold.


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

nilreb said:


> I'm buying a MAF sensor. Do I really need to buy it with the housing?


You don't need to buy it with the housing, but I don't know of any place that sells it individual...


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## peter139 (May 4, 2005)

I've got a diverter valve from forge. -This one-

It requires to mount this valve the oppersite way of a stock one.

Why is this?


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## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

I have a set of 18x8.5 et35 wheels up front. I'm wondering what size spacers I need to make it flush? As you can see in the picture the 18x10's fit pretty nicely but the fronts need to be spaced out. There is some slight stretch up front with 215/40s.


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## gearheadzTV (Sep 15, 2009)

My steering wheel has a small logo on the bottom and I've noticed others don't have it at all, why is this???


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## Tempes_TT (Oct 24, 2010)

gearheadzTV said:


> My steering wheel has a small logo on the bottom and I've noticed others don't have it at all, why is this???


Just means S-line package vs base iirc. Badge = s-line of course. :thumbup:


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## gearheadzTV (Sep 15, 2009)

Tempes_TT said:


> Just means S-line package vs base iirc. Badge = s-line of course. :thumbup:


I didn't think there was an s-line in 2000 MY, and its the only badge period...
Thnx


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

gearheadzTV said:


> I didn't think there was an s-line in 2000 MY, and its the only badge period...
> Thnx


True. No S-line for early years. I think it's really the "audi sport" badge. Standard in 2000 and most of 2001. In 2002, the TT got a slightly smaller and thicker wheel with no badge.

b.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

chrisc351 said:


> I have a set of 18x8.5 et35 wheels up front. I'm wondering what size spacers I need to make it flush? As you can see in the picture the 18x10's fit pretty nicely but the fronts need to be spaced out. There is some slight stretch up front with 215/40s.


http://www.senebdesign.com/Auto/TT-offsetcalc.htm


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## Letter K (Jan 8, 2011)

Can we get a intake manifold comparison going?

SEM
IE
and the new 034


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## Jayizdaman (Apr 18, 2005)

Stupid Question Alert:

When I activate my turn signals, I've always hear the audible "Click" however after changing my headlight bulb there is now an audible beep. When the signal is activated it makes an electronic beep almost like an alarm, (no it's not the standard click), that's usually synchronized with the blinking signal. Here's the thing after a couple of beeps, it stops completely. Other times, it's not completely synchronized, but it will start, stop and then start again if the signal is left on, long enough.

I honestly have no idea what it could be, but it seems to be coming from the center dash and again this only happened after I changed my headlight bulb. I did test the bulb without the rear plastic housing being sealed (the removable plastic back that is clipped in), so maybe something electrical? Or just a strange coincidence?

Any ideas?

:banghead:


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## GolfPuttPutt (Sep 27, 2013)

Got a question coming from the MK4 GTI forum section. 

Does the Audi TT 225 manifold:










fit mk4 gti heads or is it a big port manifold? I'm working with an AWP small port intake manifold 1.8t head.


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

GolfPuttPutt said:


> Got a question coming from the MK4 GTI forum section.
> 
> Does the Audi TT 225 manifold:
> 
> ...


It will fit


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## FatAce (Jan 30, 2012)

anyone know the offset needed to run a porsche brake conversion?


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## Checkers10160 (Jun 4, 2013)

What is the benefit of having an aftermarket turbo inlet (Intake?) pipe? Is it something that would benefit a stage 1 or 2 TT? What other mods would accompany a stage 2 car? I currently have a Stage 1 flash, a 3" catless downpipe, and a set of coilovers (The last two are waiting to be installed). Would a TIP be a good idea? The APR dealer I used recommended getting a new stock diverter valve. Would you guys recommend an OEM one, or an R1/Forge?


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## GTIR67 (Jun 9, 2010)

im away from my car and i cant find numbers anywhere

Does anyone know the front spacing and back spacing on a TT225? (hub to inside of fender/ hub to shock)

im trying to calculate offsets and im just going by my current wheels as a benchmark but it would be very helpful to know
:thumbup::thumbup:


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

If they are the five spoke wheels, they are 17x8 et32. That means mounting "flange" is 32mm closer to the face of the wheel, measuring from the center line of the wheel. Do the mm to in conversion to get what you are looking for. :thumbup:


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## GTIR67 (Jun 9, 2010)

Forty-six and 2 said:


> If they are the five spoke wheels, they are 17x8 et32. That means mounting "flange" is 32mm closer to the face of the wheel, measuring from the center line of the wheel. Do the mm to in conversion to get what you are looking for. :thumbup:


ummmmmmm no, im running alphards at the moment but thats not what im asking. i need to know the spacing WITHOUT wheels on the car to calculate for different wheels. i know perfectly well how offset works.

anyways i found a calculator set up with TT spacing. -- http://www.senebdesign.com/Auto/TT-offsetcalc.htm --
your information would help me only if i also knew the amount of space left in front of and behind the stock wheel, but it does not.


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Checkers10160 said:


> What is the benefit of having an aftermarket turbo inlet (Intake?) pipe? Is it something that would benefit a stage 1 or 2 TT? What other mods would accompany a stage 2 car? I currently have a Stage 1 flash, a 3" catless downpipe, and a set of coilovers (The last two are waiting to be installed). Would a TIP be a good idea? The APR dealer I used recommended getting a new stock diverter valve. Would you guys recommend an OEM one, or an R1/Forge?


Benefits of a new TIP is that you are replacing a 10+ year old piece of rubber with some new material. Unless your current TIP is compromised or leaking, you won't see any noticeable differences with that alone. I have seen videos of old TIP's collapsing in on themselves under higher flow.. but probably the exception rather than the rule to stock turbos and simple bolt ons...Short answer, a new TIP is a good idea to replace an OEM one  Getting a stronger diverter valve is definitely a good idea with increased boost of the flash. Most folks seem very happy with the modified EVO diverter valve (Mad Max DV) as its a diaphragm design like OEM, rather than a the piston design of the Forge unit.

I have a forge unit, which works well.. but the diaphragm valve should react faster and not require as much maintenance as the piston based DV.

Hope tha thelps :beer:


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

GTIR67 said:


> ummmmmmm no, im running alphards at the moment but thats not what im asking. i need to know the spacing WITHOUT wheels on the car to calculate for different wheels. i know perfectly well how offset works.
> 
> anyways i found a calculator set up with TT spacing. -- http://www.senebdesign.com/Auto/TT-offsetcalc.htm --
> your information would help me only if i also knew the amount of space left in front of and behind the stock wheel, but it does not.


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## GTIR67 (Jun 9, 2010)

Forty-six and 2 said:


>


lol idk what thats supposed to mean but i just wanted to throw up what i found incase anybody had a similar issue. This is the "stupid questions" thread no?
what you said was all correct, just wasn't what i needed.
dont have animosity towards me for your mistake haha:wave:


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## Checkers10160 (Jun 4, 2013)

Boulderhead said:


> Benefits of a new TIP is that you are replacing a 10+ year old piece of rubber with some new material. Unless your current TIP is compromised or leaking, you won't see any noticeable differences with that alone. I have seen videos of old TIP's collapsing in on themselves under higher flow.. but probably the exception rather than the rule to stock turbos and simple bolt ons...Short answer, a new TIP is a good idea to replace an OEM one  Getting a stronger diverter valve is definitely a good idea with increased boost of the flash. Most folks seem very happy with the modified EVO diverter valve (Mad Max DV) as its a diaphragm design like OEM, rather than a the piston design of the Forge unit.
> 
> I have a forge unit, which works well.. but the diaphragm valve should react faster and not require as much maintenance as the piston based DV.
> 
> Hope tha thelps :beer:


Awesome, thank you very much! Is there anything else I should look into replacing while I'm at it? I've heard colder plugs are a good idea with a flash. New intakes seem to be a big debate whether they're actually worth it or not.


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Checkers10160 said:


> Awesome, thank you very much! Is there anything else I should look into replacing while I'm at it? I've heard colder plugs are a good idea with a flash. New intakes seem to be a big debate whether they're actually worth it or not.


When my car was flashed.. the shop doing the job put new plugs in, but I'm not exactly sure how they were gapped or the temp of the plugs. From what I remember, there is no universal solution for plug temp and gap size.. its more about finding the sweet spot for your application. As for the intake side, I went with 42DD, but I have also seen folks modify the stock airbox to increase flow.

Outside of replacing all the old OEM vacuum hoses and PCV system, you may want to think about the coil pack harness as they are subject to a good amount of heat from the turbo.


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## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

Where's the best place to have a cluster rebuilt with OEM LCDs ? Maybe even close to Long Island NY My car looks as if its self adapting to Chinese... 

And What other options exist for rear valences mainly with a single exhaust? I've been looking at the singe honeycomb one but I've already had the dual version and I'm bored of it.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

racin2redline said:


> Where's the best place to have a cluster rebuilt with OEM LCDs ? Maybe even close to Long Island NY My car looks as if its self adapting to Chinese...
> 
> And What other options exist for rear valences mainly with a single exhaust? I've been looking at the singe honeycomb one but I've already had the dual version and I'm bored of it.


I had mine rebuilt by BBA Reman and it was $300 and took 5 days from the day I posted it till it was on my doorstep. That was a full rebuild and included the gas and temp gauge fix as well. Its still perfect 2 years later. I know theres another one people use too but I forget the name. 

For the valence just look at the tt store in the uk. They have every one known to man. Then source it from a cheaper place:beer:


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## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

Thanks man. I was wondering about the gas gauge and such if it was extra. My temp gauge is shot as well


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

racin2redline said:


> Thanks man. I was wondering about the gas gauge and such if it was extra. My temp gauge is shot as well


I could check my invoice this weekend when I get home, but Im 99% sure that cost was for a complete cluster rebuild. You could call and ask if you need to know sooner. :thumbup:


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

PLAYED TT said:


> I had mine rebuilt by BBA Reman and it was $300 and took 5 days from the day I posted it till it was on my doorstep. That was a full rebuild and included the gas and temp gauge fix as well. Its still perfect 2 years later. I know theres another one people use too but I forget the name.


Yup, full rebuild with LCD and temp/fuel is $300. They did mine last year, they turned it back around from time it left to time back was 3 days. :thumbup::thumbup:


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

DeckManDubs said:


> Yup, full rebuild with LCD and temp/fuel is $300. They did mine last year, they turned it back around from time it left to time back was 3 days. :thumbup::thumbup:


Noah do you remember the name of the other company? Module master or something seems to be ringing a bell


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

PLAYED TT said:


> Noah do you remember the name of the other company? Module master or something seems to be ringing a bell


http://www.modulemaster.com/en/services/instrument_clusters.php

Yup...modulemasters at $349. TT cluster is 4th one down on the page.

b.


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

PLAYED TT said:


> Noah do you remember the name of the other company? Module master or something seems to be ringing a bell


http://www.modulemaster.com/en/services/instrument_clusters.php

Yup...modulemasters at $349. TT cluster is 4th one down on the page.

Here's what they say:

This quality repair service includes the following work performed to your quality VDO instrument cluster:

* Restoration of BOTH the speedometer and tachometer stepper motor system (even if only one gauge is problematic)
* Restoration of fuel and temperature gauges and their related firmware
* New CAN gateway processor chip loaded with latest generation firmware + 5 year guarantee
* Our proprietary plug and play firmware add-on (Smart Set) for immobilizer III (3) systems inside your cluster
* Brand NEW center information LCD with long life metal alloy technology vs printed ink
* Full power up and test of the instrument cluster before and after restoration
* 5 year warranty on new CPU and software. LCD has lifetime guarantee
* Please anticipate a 2-10 day typical turnaround time


b.


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## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

PLAYED TT said:


> AEM Dryflow has a built in velocity stack FYI


Stock air box FTW.. Put a cone filter on for about 5 minutes... Made my car sound like a jet plane at take off. So loud


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Thanks Bob:thumbup:


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

racin2redline said:


> Stock air box FTW.. Put a cone filter on for about 5 minutes... Made my car sound like a jet plane at take off. So loud


Yup high flow filters are usually louder than stock


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## Checkers10160 (Jun 4, 2013)

PLAYED TT said:


> Yup high flow filters are usually louder than stock


Is there any performance gains? And can you just drop in a cone filter onto the end of the stock piping?


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

louder, more air, maybe lol? Its hard to say without any other supporting mods and its just sucking in warm air so its not getting anything denser.


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## Checkers10160 (Jun 4, 2013)

PLAYED TT said:


> louder, more air, maybe lol? Its hard to say without any other supporting mods and its just sucking in warm air so its not getting anything denser.


Let's say the car has a 3" catless downpipe and an ecu Flash (That would make it Stage II, right?), then would better intake be beneficial?

EDIT: I have another stupid question. I'm putting in my new downpipe soon, and have 2 cans of plastidip laying around. WOuld it be a good idea to plastidip the down pipe, since I live in the northeast, where they coat the ground with salt during the winter? Or would an exhaust wrap do the same thing?


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## Jayizdaman (Apr 18, 2005)

Stupid Question:

With this cold weather, my door latch is stuck and I cannot close my door.

Basically the latch itself that grabs the "U" bar on the body frame does not return to the closing position. I can manually move it up to the close position and move it down to the middle and bottom with little resistance, but I think there is just enough to prevent the latch from naturally closing. With this cold weather I assume it has dried out whatever grease is in there. I tried spraying some WD-40 in there to at least clean it out, but should I be using lithium grease or something else? I just don't want to damage the microswitch.

I've pretty much had stuck door-latches on every VW I've owned, it gets cold up here, but usually some WD-40 and working the latch gets it to work.

Any other TT's have these cold weather issues?


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## GTmustang (Nov 11, 2008)

Checkers10160 said:


> Let's say the car has a 3" catless downpipe and an ecu Flash (That would make it Stage II, right?), then would better intake be beneficial?
> 
> EDIT: I have another stupid question. I'm putting in my new downpipe soon, and have 2 cans of plastidip laying around. WOuld it be a good idea to plastidip the down pipe, since I live in the northeast, where they coat the ground with salt during the winter? Or would an exhaust wrap do the same thing?


Please do not plastidip your downpipe.


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## Checkers10160 (Jun 4, 2013)

GTmustang said:


> Please do not plastidip your downpipe.


I just thought it might be a good idea to protect it from salt and stuff, because I've heard of people Plasti dipping motorcycle exhaust too

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk


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## GTmustang (Nov 11, 2008)

Checkers10160 said:


> I just thought it might be a good idea to protect it from salt and stuff, because I've heard of people Plasti dipping motorcycle exhaust too
> 
> Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk



I will quote their website. http://www.plastidip.com/blog/2012/03/plasti-dip-tech-tips/

"Two of the most common questions we’ve been hearing have to do with temperature. A lot of folks are wondering about Plasti Dip’s “working temperature” range. Plasti Dip has been tested in temperatures from -30°F all the way up to +200°F. It maintains its flexibility, stretchiness, and other physical characteristics throughout this entire scale. Plasti Dip won’t get brittle or crack in the cold, and it won’t melt or become overly rubbery at high temps."


Your EGT's represent the temps on the inside of the downpipe. Just imagine how hot the outside of the pipe will get. This is why exhaust/header paints are rated for very high temperatures, and even then, people report the coating burning off (lack of prep or just very high temps). If you are concerned about corrosion, then look into a Jet-Hot coating. Or if price is a factor then just consider it for the future because it will need the be sand blasted anyway, so that will take care of any rust that may accumulate.

I hope this clears it up.


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## Tempes_TT (Oct 24, 2010)

Checkers10160 said:


> I just thought it might be a good idea to protect it from salt and stuff, because I've heard of people Plasti dipping motorcycle exhaust too
> 
> Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk


Interesting... Id advise against it as well as Im going to go on a whim and say that plastidip was not designed for high heat producing applications... If youre worried about corrosion, get yourself some high temp corrosion resistant 'paint'. Heck, Id take the stuff used to spray on cooking grills (high temp coating) over plastidip. 

For reference though, I live in Minnesnowta where the roads suck and get salty every winter season but Im just running straight stainless.


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## Checkers10160 (Jun 4, 2013)

Tempes_TT said:


> Interesting... Id advise against it as well as Im going to go on a whim and say that plastidip was not designed for high heat producing applications... If youre worried about corrosion, get yourself some high temp corrosion resistant 'paint'. Heck, Id take the stuff used to spray on cooking grills (high temp coating) over plastidip.
> 
> For reference though, I live in Minnesnowta where the roads suck and get salty every winter season but Im just running straight stainless.


That's actually a great idea, thank you. I just thought plastidip because i happened to have some laying around.

As for the corrosion, I was just worried because it's a Relentless Performance, and I'm a little paranoid about how it'll hold up, from the reviews

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Checkers10160 said:


> That's actually a great idea, thank you. I just thought plastidip because i happened to have some laying around.
> 
> As for the corrosion, I was just worried because it's a Relentless Performance, and I'm a little paranoid about how it'll hold up, from the reviews
> 
> Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk


I think any $9 can of caliper or engine paint will do. Caliper paint usually needs to be baked after application and engine paint tells you to idle the engine for so many minutes, etc etc. Might be easier to run the car and hope the exhaust gets hot enough to set the engine paint rather than trying to bake your exhaust in your oven.:laugh:


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## Checkers10160 (Jun 4, 2013)

Sorry I'm constantly posting here guys, but I'm full of stupid questions @[email protected]

Just found out my L/F inner CV boot is torn, and both outers are semi-bad shape, figured I'd replace 'em all at once. Local Audi shop said the axles need to be removed, and the two inners would run about $600. I'm assuming if the axles need to be removed, I can't do it myself. Does that sound like a good price (For just two)?

Also, I need two new tires. Should I replace all 4, or just the two on the same axle?


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## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

Checkers10160 said:


> Sorry I'm constantly posting here guys, but I'm full of stupid questions @[email protected]
> 
> Just found out my L/F inner CV boot is torn, and both outers are semi-bad shape, figured I'd replace 'em all at once. Local Audi shop said the axles need to be removed, and the two inners would run about $600. I'm assuming if the axles need to be removed, I can't do it myself. Does that sound like a good price (For just two)?
> 
> Also, I need two new tires. Should I replace all 4, or just the two on the same axle?


That does sound like a lot.. Just to replace the rubber boots. you might as well get 2 new axles.


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

If you need new front tires and it's your DD go with some harder tires since thats where all of the weight and most of the power gets applied.


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## Checkers10160 (Jun 4, 2013)

racin2redline said:


> That does sound like a lot.. Just to replace the rubber boots. you might as well get 2 new axles.


Any idea what a more reasonable price is? I like this place, they're good guys, they do good work, but they also quoted me at $180 to replace the thermostat.....



Chuckmeister87 said:


> If you need new front tires and it's your DD go with some harder tires since that's where all of the weight and most of the power gets applied.


I currently have Cooper RS3s on, and the alignment is off (I think the toe, but I'm not very knowledgeable with that) so it corded the insides of the front, so they rotated them to the back for now, but the fronts (Which used to be the backs) are still in decent condition. Can I just throw a new pair of RS3s on, since they tread wear is the same for the axles (As in the two fronts are the same, and the two backs are the same) and I have the same tread pattern all around? Or do I have to replace all four at once?

As for the harder tires, what would you recommend? I don't want to go _cheap_ on tires, but I also don't want to spend a fortune on them. I found some Milestar MS93s for $63 each, which have really good reviews, but I've never heard of Milestar before, and don't know if I trust them, even with their great reviews.


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## GTmustang (Nov 11, 2008)

Checkers10160 said:


> Any idea what a more reasonable price is? I like this place, they're good guys, they do good work, but they also quoted me at $180 to replace the thermostat......


I just replaced my thermostat, and while it was slightly inconvenient, I couldn't ever dream of paying that kind of money to have it done. Maybe this could be a good opportunity to jump in it yourself and give it a try.


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## Checkers10160 (Jun 4, 2013)

GTmustang said:


> I just replaced my thermostat, and while it was slightly inconvenient, I couldn't ever dream of paying that kind of money to have it done. Maybe this could be a good opportunity to jump in it yourself and give it a try.


Oh yeah, I definitely plan on doing it myself, but I was planning on getting some work done, so I thought if it was like, $30 (I had the parts) I might as well just have them do it while they're there, but everything they quoted me was going to cost me an arm and a leg. I've yet to get around it it though >.< It doesn't run horribly cold, about 75c, so I don't think I'm in any immediate danger


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## GTmustang (Nov 11, 2008)

Checkers10160 said:


> Oh yeah, I definitely plan on doing it myself, but I was planning on getting some work done, so I thought if it was like, $30 (I had the parts) I might as well just have them do it while they're there, but everything they quoted me was going to cost me an arm and a leg. I've yet to get around it it though >.< It doesn't run horribly cold, about 75c, so I don't think I'm in any immediate danger


I don't know your working situation, as in driveway or garage, heated or not, tools available and experience. But I would at least read a few write ups on replacing the axles, doing the thermostat and doing the downpipe. and if your up to it, then tackle them all in one shot. If you have the resources and time. They are not to bad individually if you are prepared with the proper tools/bits required


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## Checkers10160 (Jun 4, 2013)

GTmustang said:


> I don't know your working situation, as in driveway or garage, heated or not, tools available and experience. But I would at least read a few write ups on replacing the axles, doing the thermostat and doing the downpipe. and if your up to it, then tackle them all in one shot. If you have the resources and time. They are not to bad individually if you are prepared with the proper tools/bits required


I have a heated garage, but not the proper tools, or experience. I don't think I'll have much of a problem doing the thermostat, but the downpipe and axles worry me, although I don't know anything about the axles. The downpipe scares the hell out of me though, because I'm sure the turbo studs are seriously seized on the flange. I got a quote for labor and alignment for only $250, which sounds awesome. If the CV boots are not particularly hard, I may try and tackle them myself. I know DougLoBue is about an hour from me, and he was going to help me out with the DP but we couldn't coordinate a time, but maybe I could ask him if he could give me a hand with the CV boots, since he seems to really know what he's doing.

I also have a set of coilovers I was hoping to try and do myself or with some help.


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## Jayizdaman (Apr 18, 2005)

Jayizdaman said:


> Stupid Question:
> 
> With this cold weather, my door latch is stuck and I cannot close my door.
> 
> ...


Figured I just update. I use penetrating oil to clean up the muck around the latch and then spray white lithium grease in the latch and it moves freely. But after playing with the latch more I realized even if I manually moved it up into the "close" position, it never would 'click' and stay in the close position. I actually ended up taking a blow dryer to the latch to heat it up and voila' I was able to manually close the latch and have it stay in place until I opened the door handle. I then tested it with the actual door strike and the latch worked perfectly. However the next, day I had the same issue and had to heat it up to close the latch again. The temperatures have been -10 F at night here and right now it's - 9 F till tomorrow (which should be a high of 20 F warm spell! haha) so I'm hoping it'll work again and I can spray some more white lithium grease to make sure it functions, but is there anything I can do or should do? I don't have the option of taking off the door panel as I don't have a heated garage (though I may try to find a buddies I can use). 

I guess I'm just curious of how the overall mechanism functions and why only heat seems to help, issues with a spring because it's so cold maybe?


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## Checkers10160 (Jun 4, 2013)

I really wish this thread was more active so I'm not the only one asking dumb questions. But hey, maybe with all I learn here, I can actually contribute something useful one of these days.

So on to my next stupid question.

I was ****ing around with the Torque app, and wanted to play with the 0-60 and quarter mile times. To make a long story short, I didn't want to push my car _too_ hard, and admittedly don't know how to launch a car (At least not in practice, I know it in theory), so I took off as if I were leaving a stoplight, had the throttle at about 65% until around I hit boost, then gave it about 80-85%. The conditions were also slightly wet, and there was a small curve, so I didn't want to go WOT. In the end, I did 0-60 in 8.1 seconds, and a quarter mile in 16.5. Now I know no one can perfectly calculate what I'm asking, but if a professional driver were doing this, under ideal conditions (As if it were for a factory rating, or a review), what is my car capable of? It's an 01 225 Roadster, 65K miles, with an APR Stage I flash. I was thinking my ****ups cost me at least 2 seconds, making the 0-60 about 6 seconds, and the quarter mile about 14.5, but I'm hoping more. Is this plausible? According to this, from the factory the 2000 model could do it in 6.1 and 14.6 respectively, but I don't know how valid this site is. What do you guys think? Ideally, could my car do 0-60 in 6 seconds or better?

What about with a 3" downpipe, Stage II flash, and a set of coilovers? Any idea on an estimate on that?

And lastly, what are some of you guys' 0-60 and quarter mile times? I know the TT isn't a drag car, but I'm sure a lot of you guys have tested it out, and I'm curious how you did.


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

Checkers10160 said:


> I really wish this thread was more active so I'm not the only one asking dumb questions. But hey, maybe with all I learn here, I can actually contribute something useful one of these days.
> 
> So on to my next stupid question.
> 
> ...


I've seen drag times for a stage 2 225tt in the mid to high 13's with a good driver...


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Who can tell me what the hard line is going across the firewall behind the turbo? AWP 180q TT. When mocking up my holset the turbo is pushing against it slightly.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Checkers10160 said:


> And lastly, what are some of you guys' 0-60 and quarter mile times? I know the TT isn't a drag car, but I'm sure a lot of you guys have tested it out, and I'm curious how you did.


I may go this Sunday before I install my 42DD 3" DP and wideband/E85 conversion as a baseline. If so, I'll post up my results. 



thormx353 said:


> Who can tell me what the hard line is going across the firewall behind the turbo? AWP 180q TT. When mocking up my holset the turbo is pushing against it slightly.


On AWP's, the only hardline across the firewall is a brake line running from the ABS distribution block on the driver's side to the actual caliper on the passenger front. It has an aluminum shield folded around it and it screwed on top of the reflective insulation on the firewall.


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## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

20v master said:


> I may go this Sunday before I install my 42DD 3" DP and wideband/E85 conversion as a baseline. If so, I'll post up my results.
> 
> 
> 
> On AWP's, the only hardline across the firewall is a brake line running from the ABS distribution block on the driver's side to the actual caliper on the passenger front. It has an aluminum shield folded around it and it screwed on top of the reflective insulation on the firewall.


If your going to the strip... Give her a proper launch! And a real 60' time


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## hermes350GT (Oct 18, 2013)

*Ok so a few things..*

Ok hey guy/gals. First of all the guy I bought the car from says it has an APR stage 1 tune that the dealer he bought it from said was on it. My boost gauge in the car says I'm only hitting like 12-14 psi with a -20 idle but when I use the torque app on my phone is says I'm peaking at about 19 psi with a -24ish idle. I am confused. Also, how many of you here have hardwired your radar detectors? Where did you mount them and how did you wire it? And is there a decent write up to replace the motor mounts? I know how to do the dog bone mount, but have no clue for the engine.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

20v master said:


> On AWP's, the only hardline across the firewall is a brake line running from the ABS distribution block on the driver's side to the actual caliper on the passenger front. It has an aluminum shield folded around it and it screwed on top of the reflective insulation on the firewall.


Actually there is another hard line for the power steering pump going across the firewall.


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## Checkers10160 (Jun 4, 2013)

Hey guys, I replaced my CV axle last night, and tried to remove my tie rod to get better access to it. Unfortunately, the nut is so rusted to the bolt, the whole thing just spins in place. When I look from below, I can see the whole assembly just spinning. I tried putting an allen bit into the top of the bolt, but it just stripped the top of the bolt (Not the threads or the nut, on the end of the bolt there was an allen slot, I guess to get leverage). Is there anything I can do without having to destroy the tie rod? I read somewhere I could put a jack under the tie rod to put pressure on it, so I can hopefully break it free. Does that sound ok?


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## peter139 (May 4, 2005)

next stupid question: 
If the engine goes in limp mode, the boost level hits max 0,4 bar. Which part regulates this? 
It's not the waste gate valve i guess because i ride with mbc. (n75 vacuum lines disconnected, electrical connected).


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

peter139 said:


> next stupid question:
> If the engine goes in limp mode, the boost level hits max 0,4 bar. Which part regulates this?
> It's not the waste gate valve i guess because i ride with mbc. (n75 vacuum lines disconnected, electrical connected).


Hi Peter, my guess would be n249 opening your diverter valve if you still have that in the mix, otherwise the next logical limitation would be the ECU closing the throttle plate on you since the ECU isn't requesting full pressure in limp mode. Perhaps someone else can chime in and either validate my thoughts or point you in the right direction :beer:


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## peter139 (May 4, 2005)

Thanks Boulderhead, didn't think about the throttle plate. Looks a clear explanation to me.


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## H_C (May 4, 2007)

Is there any reason not to use regular "over the counter" winshield washer fluid?
I would just use regular water to get rid of the light on my dash since I don't really use it that often but my water has tons of stuff in it and if I'm going to spend money on clean water then I might as well buy cheap waser fluid... right? 
Or is there another more expensive fluid that is a "must have"? If its worth it, i'll spend the money.


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## hermes350GT (Oct 18, 2013)

H_C said:


> Is there any reason not to use regular "over the counter" winshield washer fluid?
> I would just use regular water to get rid of the light on my dash since I don't really use it that often but my water has tons of stuff in it and if I'm going to spend money on clean water then I might as well buy cheap waser fluid... right?
> Or is there another more expensive fluid that is a "must have"? If its worth it, i'll spend the money.


I just use regular fluid I buy at the grocery store.


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## nilreb (Mar 17, 2012)

anyone actually replaced these parts? 










OR this










and this 












the last one i thought is the one with the vacuum suction pump but it's not.


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## sweetinsanityTT (Apr 28, 2008)

I think the majority of people on here just delete them when they go bad. To expensive in my opnion to replace with OEM parts. I havent had any issues from deleting them and .33 a foot vacuum tube saves you a ton.


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## uphillclimber (Feb 9, 2014)

*Downshifting*

Those of you with manual transmissions: It's been 20 years since I've owned a stick (16v Cabriolet and Scirocco). Now that I have a manual 225 TT 6 speed, I'd like to see how many of you actually downshift to 1st gear. I'm sure this is a really really dumb question but why not ask?


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

uphillclimber said:


> Those of you with manual transmissions: It's been 20 years since I've owned a stick (16v Cabriolet and Scirocco). Now that I have a manual 225 TT 6 speed, I'd like to see how many of you actually downshift to 1st gear. I'm sure this is a really really dumb question but why not ask?


only if I'm going about 5-10mph and in RACE mode


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## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

Very, very rarely.


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## uphillclimber (Feb 9, 2014)

luchos said:


> only if I'm going about 5-10mph and in RACE mode


I guess I should have been more clear, down shifting to a stop. Sometimes I fully downshift to 1st gear, sometimes in 2nd, and occasionally in 3rd for more abrupt stops.

I was considering getting the product Automatic which is a ODB2 dongle that calculates driving habits and reports gas savings etc. Anyone have one and use the iPhone App?


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## sweetinsanityTT (Apr 28, 2008)

My clutch and car would hate me if i did that. Why not just put it in neutral? Unless Im missing the point of down shifting?


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## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

sweetinsanityTT said:


> My clutch and car would hate me if i did that. Why not just put it in neutral? Unless Im missing the point of down shifting?


What he said. ^^


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## H_C (May 4, 2007)

I'm only in first if I'm starting from a dead stop otherwise I only downshift to 2nd. Even when I roll through stop signs I'm usually in 2nd:laugh:


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## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

So I'm looking to get an intake this Spring and I'd like to go with a velocity stack from 42Draft Designs. I'm in a 180fwd (stupid I know). They sell one for a 225 and one for a MK4 1.8T. Which one will fit? Anyone?


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## nilreb (Mar 17, 2012)

sweetinsanityTT said:


> I think the majority of people on here just delete them when they go bad. To expensive in my opnion to replace with OEM parts. I havent had any issues from deleting them and .33 a foot vacuum tube saves you a ton.


was about to, but after i get my smog. i live in california.


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## Checkers10160 (Jun 4, 2013)

Back yet again to ask more probably stupid questions.

So now that the snow is melting and it's not freezing out, I'm planning on finally getting my Tein coilovers installed (Possibly doing it myself, haven't decided yet (Anyone in NY want to give me a hand for food and alcohol?). Anyways, if I'm not going super low, do I still need adjustable control arms? Upper and lower, or just one? Do I need front and rear, or just rear? Is there anything else I need? I bought the coilovers on an impulse without doing much research (Full set of adjustable dampening coils from Tein for $350 last Cyber Monday) but I e-mailed them, and they said that's everything I need to install them, but is there anything else I need (Such as adjustable control arms)?

And I'm pretty sure I know the answer to this, but I'll ask to double check anyways. If I adjust the ride height, I would have to get a new alignment, correct? So I can't drop it as low as I can one day out of boredom, and go back to a more practical height the next day?


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Checkers10160 said:


> Back yet again to ask more probably stupid questions.
> 
> So now that the snow is melting and it's not freezing out, I'm planning on finally getting my Tein coilovers installed (Possibly doing it myself, haven't decided yet (Anyone in NY want to give me a hand for food and alcohol?). Anyways, if I'm not going super low, do I still need adjustable control arms? Upper and lower, or just one? Do I need front and rear, or just rear? Is there anything else I need? I bought the coilovers on an impulse without doing much research (Full set of adjustable dampening coils from Tein for $350 last Cyber Monday) but I e-mailed them, and they said that's everything I need to install them, but is there anything else I need (Such as adjustable control arms)?
> 
> And I'm pretty sure I know the answer to this, but I'll ask to double check anyways. If I adjust the ride height, I would have to get a new alignment, correct? So I can't drop it as low as I can one day out of boredom, and go back to a more practical height the next day?


If you're going just a little low, say 1.0-1.5 inches, you may get by with none. However, IME, near 1.5 is the crossover point where you will need them. Probably just one set and easiest is to install them on the bottom.

Each TT is different. But, adjustables (control arms or Kmac-style bushings for the rear) are cheaper then replacing tires. Fronts can usually be adjusted at the ball joints.

Other will chime in with their experience too.

Edit: I did not need them when I was at about an inch with eibachs/bilsteins. When I switched to H&Rs, the drop approached 1.5....I needed them and got one set of Kmacs for the bottom rear control arms. It's all good now.

cheers.


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

I recently read in the owner's manual to NOT let your TT sit idle for warm-up and to instead drive it at a low, constant speed to reduce emissions. I don't see how driving it to help warm it compared to letting it idle changes emissions at all except that you're getting some miles out of the warm-up period thus reducing your overall drive time......

Can anyone explain why Audi recommends driving it immediately after starting the car (when it's hardest on the engine and emissions are at their worst)?


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> I recently read in the owner's manual to NOT let your TT sit idle for warm-up and to instead drive it at a low, constant speed to reduce emissions. I don't see how driving it to help warm it compared to letting it idle changes emissions at all except that you're getting some miles out of the warm-up period thus reducing your overall drive time......
> 
> Can anyone explain why Audi recommends driving it immediately after starting the car (when it's hardest on the engine and emissions are at their worst)?


My guess is that there is a more efficient burn of the air/fuel mixture at low speed (say 1500-2500 rpm) than at idle (say 900rpm).


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

The SAI won't have to circulate as long to warm the motor up if it's being driven. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## peter139 (May 4, 2005)

i need help

i get this sign









battery/charging probs

Last year November i replaced the battery
Problems started 3 weeks ago
2 weeks ago i checked the voltage regulator on my alternator. Carbon brushes are in good shape
all mass points on the car are clean and in good condition. Power supply cables are in good shape.

I measured the voltage and this is 14.2 volts on the battery with the car running. With the climatronic trick No 20 it shows 13.8 volts. With vagcom 13.7 volts

This warning shows up on every ride after 3 miles, and stays on for 10 minutes. Sometimes it shows up on a long ride when cruising. 

Somebody knows what this sign causes?


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## TTazRS (Feb 1, 2012)

peter139 said:


> This warning shows up on every ride after 3 miles, and stays on for 10 minutes. Sometimes it shows up on a long ride when cruising.
> 
> Somebody knows what this sign causes?


Have you ever noticed your blinker blink double time after the light has been on for a while? Or your interior lights slowly begin to dim after a long ride? If so it's a bad alternator. One other thing to check would be the fuse/relay box on top of the battery. When open, the fuse on the far left can become loose and not properly ground the alternator cable. The fuse becomes brittle and breaks.


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## 180dan (Apr 4, 2011)

I have the factory Concert head unit in my 01 coupe. I swear whenever I start the car and turn on the radio, when I pull out and excellerate I hear tires pealing out and spinning coming from the speakers. It's as if Audi recorded tires chirping and burning rubber and programmed the radio to play the sound when we first accelerate. Before you accuse me of smoking crack, I've tested it with my wife and she heard it too. And no, she doesn't smoke either. Anyone else hear this too?


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## boobsapproved (Feb 12, 2014)

*Oil Pan Replacement*

Hey I have to replace my oil pan today but does anyone know the bolt heads are underneath it? Were they torx or allen? What size head did they have on them?


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## boobsapproved (Feb 12, 2014)

boobsapproved said:


> Hey I have to replace my oil pan today but does anyone know the bolt heads are underneath it? Were they torx or allen? What size head did they have on them?


Nevermind, you can get at everything with a 10mm


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

180dan said:


> I have the factory Concert head unit in my 01 coupe. I swear whenever I start the car and turn on the radio, when I pull out and excellerate I hear tires pealing out and spinning coming from the speakers. It's as if Audi recorded tires chirping and burning rubber and programmed the radio to play the sound when we first accelerate. Before you accuse me of smoking crack, I've tested it with my wife and she heard it too. And no, she doesn't smoke either. Anyone else hear this too?


Hahahaha @ being acused of smoking crack


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> Can anyone explain why Audi recommends driving it immediately after starting the car (when it's hardest on the engine and emissions are at their worst)?


Emissions regulations, simple as that. Cars are the dirtiest when cold, and the sooner you drive, the sooner the car (and catalytic converter) warms up. I don't care what anyone says, giving a car a minute to get oil pressure up and get a little warmth into the engine isn't going to hurt anything, why would we worry about that manufacturer recommendation when they talk about things like lifetime fluids, 100k timing belt jobs, and 10k oil changes? None of those things are the best for the consumer, and driving a dead-cold engine goes right along with that. I'm sure there is some infographic somewhere that shows how cold starts/drives lowered emissions by some percentile that got the EPA off their back, its in the best interest of the consumer when its in the best interest of the company.


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## BoostedLTH (Mar 19, 2014)

Okay. My turn to ask a dumb question. 02 tt225 with 123,xxx on it. The center display has a fair amount of pixelation and the temp gauge reads wrong. When I bought the car, they gave me an extra cluster. Can I swap components like the LCD display and temp gauge assembly over so I don't lose my mileage etc.? Or is that entirely too involved..?


Sent from my iPhone using basic grammar


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

BoostedLTH said:


> Okay. My turn to ask a dumb question. 02 tt225 with 123,xxx on it. The center display has a fair amount of pixelation and the temp gauge reads wrong. When I bought the car, they gave me an extra cluster. Can I swap components like the LCD display and temp gauge assembly over so I don't lose my mileage etc.? Or is that entirely too involved..?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using basic grammar



I just display my coolant temp through the HVAC controls. I think there is a place that fixes the pixelation also.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

With my big turbo build done I'd like to get my suspension done so I can properly put the power done. The car has 180k and all stock suspension components. I see ECS has some nice suspension refresh kits. 

Would these: http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MKI-Quattro-180HP/Suspension/Control_Arm/ES2550174/

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MKI-Quattro-180HP/Suspension/Control_Arm/ES2550199/

Along with coilovers do the job? Adjustable rear control arms? Or should I skip the OEM bushings and go with stiffer?


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## H_C (May 4, 2007)

Anyone have any experience importing parts from Europe? I'm looking to get a hard top for my TT but it seems like there are only a handful floating around the states and so they are really expensive.

I'm just looking for something like an FAQ, list of fees, or even thread where someone tells their experience in getting some parts. Thanks in advance.


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## PolarTT (Jan 17, 2014)

*Replacing cover on key*

In the theme of stupid questions - how do you replace the cover (the flexible skin with open, lock and trunk) on our keys. Mine have faded and are starting to crack. I went and got replacement skins from ECS when they were on sale but I can't figure out how to remove them without damaging the key. 

TIA

Peter


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

H_C said:


> Anyone have any experience importing parts from Europe? I'm looking to get a hard top for my TT but it seems like there are only a handful floating around the states and so they are really expensive.
> 
> I'm just looking for something like an FAQ, list of fees, or even thread where someone tells their experience in getting some parts. Thanks in advance.


You're looking at about $3500 for the hardtop if you get a good price, it weighs a lot, so basically you should expect freight charges from Europe  You might as well build one from scratch for what the end-cost would be...


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## Chunki84 (Dec 18, 2008)

does 18x9 5x100 wheels fit audi tt mk1? i know bolt patterns are okay. i am not sure offset. i don't want to use spacer. 18x9. if second number is larger, thicker spacer requires?


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## berntllye (Apr 25, 2014)

Ok so my mechanic and i were replace the thermostat on my TT last night and there was a red "sensor" that was dangling down from what looked like the hood latch, does anyone have a clue as to what it is?


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## H_C (May 4, 2007)

PolarTT said:


> In the theme of stupid questions - how do you replace the cover (the flexible skin with open, lock and trunk) on our keys. Mine have faded and are starting to crack. I went and got replacement skins from ECS when they were on sale but I can't figure out how to remove them without damaging the key.
> 
> TIA
> 
> Peter




I just replaced my battery not too long ago. There are a couple videos on youtube that can help if you're more of a visual person. The TT key should be like any of the VW or Audi keys.
There is a little box on the back under the rings that needs to be pried open with a flathead or something simliar. This is basically the clip that holds the two halves together. Once the clip is loose you should be able to pull the key apart. It might be pretty tight if this is the first time you're taking your key apart. 
Good luck!


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

berntllye said:


> Ok so my mechanic and i were replace the thermostat on my TT last night and there was a red "sensor" that was dangling down from what looked like the hood latch, does anyone have a clue as to what it is?


Got a picture?


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## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

PolarTT said:


> In the theme of stupid questions - how do you replace the cover (the flexible skin with open, lock and trunk) on our keys. Mine have faded and are starting to crack. I went and got replacement skins from ECS when they were on sale but I can't figure out how to remove them without damaging the key.
> 
> TIA
> 
> Peter


Use a small flat screwdriver or a pick to pry it off. It will pop off.
I did this myself last month.


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## berntllye (Apr 25, 2014)

Here is what it looks like detached.


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## 180dan (Apr 4, 2011)

How do you install the black plastic trim that sits next to the rear light assembly. I have no problem getting it on. It's getting it on with the rubber from the light assembly intact that's the problem. I can't help but crush the rubber seal on the light during install.


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## EuroSpic_TT (Apr 24, 2012)

feel dumb asking, but can the powergasket be reused? or have to purchase new one after removal? :banghead:


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## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

Definitely a stupid question, but is there a launch control like a 2 step or wot box for an automatic transmission?


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## Checkers10160 (Jun 4, 2013)

So I need a new wheel bearing, but I'd like to do it myself. I know there is a special tool needed to press the bearing into the hub, but if I get a hub and bearing assembly like this, would I need any special tools? Or would it bolt right in?

EDIT: Alright so it seems it doesn't come pressed ever really, but I was told any shop can do it fairly easily. So if I get this thing pressed, how hard would be to do myself? So far I've just done brakes, an outer tie rod end, and a CV axle, all with the help of some DIYs. Should I be able to install a bearing/hub assembly myself? If not, what would it cost to have someone else do it? I got quoted close to $600, which seems a little high to me, especially because $300 of that is just for parts.....


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## The Marty Show (Jul 28, 2011)

When I shift the S4 at high revs, I get a bark sound. Sounds great, but is this a backfire that I should be concerned about or is it designed to do this? 

EDIT: Also, when this happens, do I have flames coming out of my arse?

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

The Marty Show said:


> When I shift the S4 at high revs, I get a bark sound. Sounds great, but is this a backfire that I should be concerned about or is it designed to do this?
> 
> EDIT: Also, when this happens, do I have flames coming out of my arse?
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk


LOL, S4 question in TT stupid question thread...you win.


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## BoostedLTH (Mar 19, 2014)

Checkers10160 said:


> So I need a new wheel bearing, but I'd like to do it myself. I know there is a special tool needed to press the bearing into the hub, but if I get a hub and bearing assembly like this, would I need any special tools? Or would it bolt right in?
> 
> EDIT: Alright so it seems it doesn't come pressed ever really, but I was told any shop can do it fairly easily. So if I get this thing pressed, how hard would be to do myself? So far I've just done brakes, an outer tie rod end, and a CV axle, all with the help of some DIYs. Should I be able to install a bearing/hub assembly myself? If not, what would it cost to have someone else do it? I got quoted close to $600, which seems a little high to me, especially because $300 of that is just for parts.....


Just had a front passenger done two weeks ago at a local euro shop. $206ish. Give or take $15. 


Sent from my iPhone using basic grammar


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Checkers10160 said:


> So I need a new wheel bearing, but I'd like to do it myself. I know there is a special tool needed to press the bearing into the hub, but if I get a hub and bearing assembly like this, would I need any special tools? Or would it bolt right in?
> 
> EDIT: Alright so it seems it doesn't come pressed ever really, but I was told any shop can do it fairly easily. So if I get this thing pressed, how hard would be to do myself? So far I've just done brakes, an outer tie rod end, and a CV axle, all with the help of some DIYs. Should I be able to install a bearing/hub assembly myself? If not, what would it cost to have someone else do it? I got quoted close to $600, which seems a little high to me, especially because $300 of that is just for parts.....


I was told before that if you have a hammer and a good arm you could pound the bearing in. I've never seen one or where it goes, but I'd probably use a block of wood to cushion the blow from the hammer to the bearing. Don't think there is a special tool but I could be wrong


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## rossbeagle. (Jan 21, 2011)

*Extended Lug Bolts?*

I guess this question is kind of stupid, and I don't know where else to post. 
But anyway, do any of you know someplace that sells extended lug bolts in different finishes, such as neo-chrome or black?
I feel like I've looked everywhere. Thanks for any help :beer:


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## The Marty Show (Jul 28, 2011)

TTC2k5 said:


> LOL, S4 question in TT stupid question thread...you win.


Oh, crap. Using Tapatalk, I never noticed what forum this was in.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk


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## BoostedLTH (Mar 19, 2014)

Another stupid question...is there a dummies guide for hooking up an aftermarket sub and amp to the concert head unit in a 225 roadster? Everything I find starts simple then ends up being kind of complex...I just want more bass.... 


Sent from my iPhone using basic grammar


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## Ac101 (Apr 30, 2013)

Does the o2 sensor throw 2 codes ????
My cel came on and it came up for o2 sensor b1 s1 2x for 2 different codes


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## 180dan (Apr 4, 2011)

BoostedLTH said:


> Another stupid question...is there a dummies guide for hooking up an aftermarket sub and amp to the concert head unit in a 225 roadster? Everything I find starts simple then ends up being kind of complex...I just want more bass....
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using basic grammar


http://www.wak-tt.com/mods/subwoofer/subwoofer.htm


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## BoostedLTH (Mar 19, 2014)

Thank you 180dan!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Is there a reason why this isn't stickied yet?


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## BoostedLTH (Mar 19, 2014)

Where can I find these covers for my switches? The OEM switches I have are all black, but the replacement has this aluminum trim. If I could find it, I might like to buy it for the rest of the dash switches to compliment my brushed aluminum theme. Pic of the new switch for reference.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## G'D60 (Mar 11, 2002)

BoostedLTH said:


> Where can I find these covers for my switches? The OEM switches I have are all black, but the replacement has this aluminum trim. If I could find it, I might like to buy it for the rest of the dash switches to compliment my brushed aluminum theme. Pic of the new switch for reference.


Its across the pond but
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUDI-TT-MK1-GTT-CIRCULAR-DASH-SWITCH-COVERS-FACIAS-/331196967905?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4d1ce0abe1


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## BoostedLTH (Mar 19, 2014)

Thanks! I found it at I think ttstuff but realized I can just pull the aluminum off which is better than paying $50 haha


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## H_C (May 4, 2007)

Someone broke and either threw away or took my antenna and now I want to replace it. It looks like the housing is completely gone but I'm not sure what I need to get to make it work again. The price of replacement parts range from 15 bucks for a new antenna rod or 250 bucks for the whole assembly. 

Has this or something similar happened to anyone else?

Any help or advice will be appreciated.

What’s left of it 
http://i.imgur.com/1MXXArQ.jpg


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

That looks like you can pop the 5 small clips around the perimeter and remove the upper and lower portions, is it in the roof? The cleanest way would be to install a new mount, or maybe swap in a sharkfin...I'm spitballing, my TT doesn't have an antenna :laugh:


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## Dark Zero (Feb 17, 2005)

H_C said:


> Someone broke and either threw away or took my antenna and now I want to replace it. It looks like the housing is completely gone but I'm not sure what I need to get to make it work again. The price of replacement parts range from 15 bucks for a new antenna rod or 250 bucks for the whole assembly.
> 
> Has this or something similar happened to anyone else?
> 
> ...


The headliner trim towards the rear of the car pops out (I think it was 4 or five clips), then you can reach in and remove the rest of the antenna pieces. The antenna was for the car phone so its pretty useless. I "deleted" mine and used one of Verdict's pieces. Some other people used other pieces as a filler/delete (an antenna spike for example)

http://www.verdictmotorsports.com/MK1_Audi_TT_Coupe_telephone_phone_antenna_delete_p/0042.htm


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## H_C (May 4, 2007)

Dark Zero said:


> The headliner trim towards the rear of the car pops out (I think it was 4 or five clips), then you can reach in and remove the rest of the antenna pieces. The antenna was for the car phone so its pretty useless. I "deleted" mine and used one of Verdict's pieces. Some other people used other pieces as a filler/delete (an antenna spike for example)
> 
> http://www.verdictmotorsports.com/MK1_Audi_TT_Coupe_telephone_phone_antenna_delete_p/0042.htm


Is it just for the car phone? My radio doesn't work at all now. Not really a problem because I have an aux cable but I live by a drive in theatre and I realized on my last date that I cannot listen to the sound of the movie because it is played over the radio.


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

H_C said:


> Is it just for the car phone? My radio doesn't work at all now. Not really a problem because I have an aux cable but I live by a drive in theatre and I realized on my last date that I cannot listen to the sound of the movie because it is played over the radio.


Yes...car phone only. Radio antenna is embedded in the rear hatch glass.


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## H_C (May 4, 2007)

I have the Roadster model so I think it's different. My radio doesn't work at all now that its gone so I'm pretty sure that is the antenna for the radio


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## Dark Zero (Feb 17, 2005)

Ya, forget what I said then since it applies to the coupe. Didn't know you had the roadster so you'll most likely have to replace it. Does a socket fit on there?


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

H_C said:


> I have the Roadster model so I think it's different. My radio doesn't work at all now that its gone so I'm pretty sure that is the antenna for the radio


Sell it. Buy a proper TT.


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## H_C (May 4, 2007)

Dark Zero said:


> Ya, forget what I said then since it applies to the coupe. Didn't know you had the roadster so you'll most likely have to replace it. Does a socket fit on there?


Yes but when I try and turn it the antenna adapter thing underneath spins as well. Its at a really weird angle to hold or fit any kind of tool in there so I can't stop it from spinning.


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

TTC2k5 said:


> Sell it. Buy a proper TT.


Hey now!


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## Dark Zero (Feb 17, 2005)

H_C said:


> Yes but when I try and turn it the antenna adapter thing underneath spins as well. Its at a really weird angle to hold or fit any kind of tool in there so I can't stop it from spinning.


Is there any access behind the panel in the trunk?


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## edwintt (Jun 14, 2014)

*Questions before buying*

Hi everyone. I saw a nice 2005 3.2L Quattro coupe today. Just two questions before I take the next step. 1) for the 2005 model, what exactly is the difference in the S-Line edition? 2) I noticed that the left exhaust tip stuck out a little more than the right one. Is this normal for this model or is that a sign of something bad? Thanks!


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## FatAce (Jan 30, 2012)

I'm going to be doing a sai/pcv/n249/combi valve delete and have one question. I want to know if I can retain the check valve if I delete the suction pump. I have the 034 silicone kit with the billet check valve and want to keep the kit in tact as much as possible. I would be routing the check valve piping straight to the intake manifold.


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## [email protected] (Dec 14, 2013)

I have stock wheels on my TT and after much searching for wheels I have decided to keep the stockers. So question is what size spacers do I need to get a nice flush fit.

Sent from my M2105 using Tapatalk


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## LF_gottron (Jan 24, 2013)

[email protected] said:


> I have stock wheels on my TT and after much searching for wheels I have decided to keep the stockers. So question is what size spacers do I need to get a nice flush fit.
> 
> Sent from my M2105 using Tapatalk


take a ruler and lay the bottom of the ruler flat against the tire pointing out. look down on the ruler and wherever the fender is, is how much spacer you can add to be flush


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## H_C (May 4, 2007)

edwintt said:


> Hi everyone. I saw a nice 2005 3.2L Quattro coupe today. Just two questions before I take the next step. 1) for the 2005 model, what exactly is the difference in the S-Line edition? 2) I noticed that the left exhaust tip stuck out a little more than the right one. Is this normal for this model or is that a sign of something bad? Thanks!


The exhaust tips should be the same, I would check the underbody to see whats up with it. Also, if you want to know exactly what is different in the 2005 S-Line, wikipedia has all the specs in the audi TT article. Here it is:



> TT quattro Sport[edit]
> 
> In 2005, Audi released the Coupé-only limited edition (800 sold in the UK, not the 1000 originally planned) Audi TT quattro Sport[10] (known as the Audi TT Club Sport in Europe). Built by AUDI AG high-performance specialist subsidiary quattro GmbH, it had increased power from its 1.8-litre turbocharged engine – rising to 240 PS (177 kW; 237 hp) and 320 newton metres (236 lbf·ft) of torque – and a reduction in weight of 75 kilograms (165 lb) to 1,390 kilograms (3,064 lb),[10] which allowed for a 0 to 100 kilometres per hour (0.0 to 62.1 mph) time of 5.9 seconds, and an electronically limited top speed of 250 kilometres per hour (155.3 mph).[10]
> 
> This weight loss was achieved by deleting the spare wheel, rear counterweight, rear parcel shelf and rear seats, and the standard fitment air conditioning.[10] The main battery was also relocated to the rear of the vehicle in order to maintain weight distribution as much as possible. Lightweight fixed-back Recaro bucket seats graced the interior.[10] Distinguishable from other TT Coupés by its two-tone paint scheme (Phantom Black pearl painted roof, pillars and mirror housings, in combination with either Avus Silver, Phantom Black, Mauritius Blue or Misano Red body colour)[10] and unique 18" 15-spoke cast aluminium alloy wheels, plus the same body kit as fitted to the TT 3.2 V6, the TT quattro Sport also featured black exhaust tailpipes and uprated suspension settings and new wheels, ½" wider at the rear for improved handling. The brochure stated V6-spec brakes were to be fitted, however models delivered in the UK came with the standard 225 spec brake callipers which were red-painted.


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## Chunki84 (Dec 18, 2008)

If I install IE intake manifold with HEMI 80mm throttle body on my car stage 2 tuned ecu,

What will happen?


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## luchos (Feb 23, 2012)

Chunki84 said:


> If I install IE intake manifold with HEMI 80mm throttle body on my car stage 2 tuned ecu,
> 
> What will happen?


It will run like sh*t... your idle will bounce around terribly and car might die. Don't use the hemi throttle body unless you have a tune for it... You can install the intake manifold along with the transition spacer for your stock tb


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Chunki84 said:


> If I install IE intake manifold with HEMI 80mm throttle body on my car stage 2 tuned ecu,
> 
> What will happen?


For a TB that big, you most likely will have to update the tune in order to get good idling and driving characteristics. I have have gotten away from needing tweaking the tune though going from stock to a 65mm TB.


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## Jayizdaman (Apr 18, 2005)

Stupid question, on the passenger side headlight, is it possible to remove the HID ballast without removing the headlight from the vehicle? I believe my ballast has finally died and I'd rather not leave my car inoperable for more than a day.

Alternatively, I can swap the ballasts from the driver side to the passenger side to ensure it's the ballast that is the issue, correct? The ballast mount will the same way it's just the mounting bracket that is different? My car is at home, but for the 2000 MY, I don't think my ballast mounts that same as other models, I think there's a black bracket around it, unlike this which has the ballast (the silver portion) exposed and mounted with just 3 phillips screws.

This one looks more like my light, I guess it's just a plastic shroud over it?


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## D2O (May 12, 2012)

Question - is the compression ratio difference between the AWP and AMU engines dictated by the head, pistons, or stroke?


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

D2O said:


> Question - is the compression ratio difference between the AWP and AMU engines dictated by the head, pistons, or stroke?


Pistons.


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## FatAce (Jan 30, 2012)

I need help with a part number, I was stupid enough to throw out a relay which failed on me prior to getting the part number off it.

I need the part number for the ECM relay. It's relay 100 underneath the hood in the black box located by the brake booster.


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## drybar (Aug 27, 2011)

This one? CLICK ME!

Looks like part 7M0951253A. The ECS link is the superceded part 4H0951253.


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## 180dan (Apr 4, 2011)

How difficult would it be to stitch your own seats to make them look just like baseball glove seats? I mean, it looks like all you need is a big leather grade needle and some leather twine. Or am i missing something? Has it been done? Pics?


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## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

So I got a Gonzo stage 2 tune a while ago, when I first got it I remember the car pulling really hard and being totally awesome. Soon after though the CEL for not running a cat came back on and now it seems a good amount slower (the tune was supposed to delete the CEL) 

I've noticed recently when I really get on it the DV will release the pressure while my foot is still on the gas pedal. Does this signify that the turbo is reaching it's factory boost pressure settings and releasing the pressure?


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## hermes350GT (Oct 18, 2013)

chrisc351 said:


> So I got a Gonzo stage 2 tune a while ago, when I first got it I remember the car pulling really hard and being totally awesome. Soon after though the CEL for not running a cat came back on and now it seems a good amount slower (the tune was supposed to delete the CEL)
> 
> I've noticed recently when I really get on it the DV will release the pressure while my foot is still on the gas pedal. Does this signify that the turbo is reaching it's factory boost pressure settings and releasing the pressure?


Are you still running the stock DV? If so, get rid of it and get an upgraded one.


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## [email protected] (Dec 14, 2013)

hermes350GT said:


> Are you still running the stock DV? If so, get rid of it and get an upgraded one.


This. I got a madmax dv love it holds boost sounds sweet. Your cel for no cat is a whole different issue specially since it was tuned out or supposed to be at least


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## hotgrass (Aug 22, 2008)

can the luggage compartment screen still be fixed after both tabs broke?


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## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

hermes350GT said:


> Are you still running the stock DV? If so, get rid of it and get an upgraded one.


No, I'm running the APR R1 DV


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## 180dan (Apr 4, 2011)

hotgrass said:


> can the luggage compartment screen still be fixed after both tabs broke?


Side pop in tabs, yes. The front slide in tabs, not sure. What you can do is buy a busted up one for cheap. Just make sure the same parts aren't broke on both. The screen snaps apart so you can just switch in the new parts you need. I did this when my side clips broke and all went well.


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## BoostedLTH (Mar 19, 2014)

Got these








Need to know what else I need to make them work on this








They're the correct springs for he car, but I mean do I need adjustable rear control arms? What about the front ones?


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## 180dan (Apr 4, 2011)

Got one thing to say⬆Spacers! But on a side note, do you get stopped for lack of front plate? Here in bay area, CA, you just can't keep up with the tickets you get...


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## BoostedLTH (Mar 19, 2014)

180dan said:


> Got one thing to saySpacers! But on a side note, do you get stopped for lack of front plate? Here in bay area, CA, you just can't keep up with the tickets you get...


No thanks to the spacers, just replacing worn out oem with something a little nicer. Not looking for 'fitment' haha. But here in pa we don't do that front plate nonsense. Haha


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

You'll need new shocks, just springs kill the OEM ones really quick (assuming you are still on OEM parts)


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## BoostedLTH (Mar 19, 2014)

I am indeed on stock shocks. How do I know when the shocks are junk as well? Haha


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

BoostedLTH said:


> I am indeed on stock shocks. How do I know when the shocks are junk as well? Haha


Oem shocks are good for 60-80k with oem springs. Then they usually develop leaks as they die.

And yes, you will need some adjustment as the drop will produce enough negative camber to wear the rear tires...arms or eccentric bushings installed in you lower trailing arms.

Cheers


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## [email protected] (Dec 14, 2013)

I want to put my tt up in the air to take off all 4 wheels to paint and mount new tires. I don't have any Jack adapters is there a safe spot to place standard Jack stands that won't damage anything


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## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> I want to put my tt up in the air to take off all 4 wheels to paint and mount new tires. I don't have any Jack adapters is there a safe spot to place standard Jack stands that won't damage anything


Just use a 2x4 to help distribute the stress evenly and put it underneath the subframe.


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

@joe,
The rear donuts are reinforced and can be used with jackstands. The first few inches of the frame rails can be used to lift the front too. But, only use the first few inches else they will crush.

Alternately, a 2#4 along the pinch weld will also work and won't result in damage.


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## [email protected] (Dec 14, 2013)

Thank you guys


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## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

I'm thinking about cutting out the spare wheel well to save a little weight and possibly to build a diffuser for a bit more downforce. Any structural issues with that? I'd most likely stick with an aluminum plate to cover the hole.


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## [email protected] (Dec 14, 2013)

How do you go about fitting an lines to factory hard fuel line

Sent from my M2105 using Tapatalk


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

chrisc351 said:


> I'm thinking about cutting out the spare wheel well to save a little weight and possibly to build a diffuser for a bit more downforce. Any structural issues with that? I'd most likely stick with an aluminum plate to cover the hole.


Definitely not a good idea to cut the tub without properly reinforcing it with some bracing (especially if using sheet aluminum to cover the hole). IMO, there are much better ways to save weight, and a diffuser can be built without removing the spare tire tub (I see the muffler/tapipe location as more of a roadblock than the tub).


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> How do you go about fitting an lines to factory hard fuel line
> 
> Sent from my M2105 using Tapatalk


Aluminum (also available in stainless steel if you're using e85, methanol or other corrosive stuff):
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/aei-15117

And everything you need to know about fuel lines and converting factory lines to SS braided lines and Army/Navy specs:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...nes-Fueling-FAQ&highlight=fitting+stock+lines


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## drunkenpenguin49 (Apr 8, 2009)

Anyone know the correct routing of the 4 lower brake lines coming out of the ABS pump on a 01' 225Q? I wrote on them with "permanent" marker but it didn't stay on from the brake fluid. I think I have them right but I want to be sure.


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## [email protected] (Dec 14, 2013)

Can you heat wrap over the flex section of a downpipe


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## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Can you heat wrap over the flex section of a downpipe


I suppose you can. I didn't. I personally don't think you want any movement of the wrap.


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## G3RG4TR0N1C (Aug 24, 2014)

Your windows are supposed to go down 1/4" or so when you open the convertible top. Only my passenger window does. Is that a relay or a fuse, or what?


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## [email protected] (Dec 14, 2013)

ramone23456 said:


> I suppose you can. I didn't. I personally don't think you want any movement of the wrap.


Hmm I got the dp used and it is a little rough in the flex section. I think I'm going to clean up the surface rust paint it wrap it in some titanium heat wrap and metal zip ties, the flex section included. Any one see anything really wrong with this or have a better approach for strengthening this thing up.


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## Dark Zero (Feb 17, 2005)

I guess I'll try here first. This is regarding a funky temp gauge. I noticed the very tip of my temp needle is a tiny bit to the right on the center tick once its warmed up. Depending how long I've driven I noticed the needle starting to creep to the first tick from center when I'm stopped and idling. Sometimes it barely reaches the first tick and starts to climb back down in the same pace it went up. Other times it might hang there a few seconds and climbs back down again. Often it seems the split second I start to move from a stop is when it starts coming down. It stays at the center tick during any other time driving around (highway, city etc). It just climbs when stopped/idle after an ok amount of driving.

Car still had the original black temp sensor which I swapped for a green a while back. Climatronic trick shows it rising as the needle moves, I think it hit 101 usually when it climbs down again. Both fans came on with climatronic turned on but I'll have to double check again. Any other checks I should start with to see what's going on?


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## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

I'm curious what is in the spare wheel well of a fwd Audi TT. I'm thinking about cutting it out to lighten up the car and start working on a diffuser tray for underneath. I see a couple of hoses that run through there. Anyone?
:beer:


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## hermes350GT (Oct 18, 2013)

chrisc351 said:


> I'm curious what is in the spare wheel well of a fwd Audi TT. I'm thinking about cutting it out to lighten up the car and start working on a diffuser tray for underneath. I see a couple of hoses that run through there. Anyone?
> :beer:


someone on here already asked about doing that and the general consensus was not to cut it out because it would would the structural integrity.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Dark Zero said:


> I guess I'll try here first. This is regarding a funky temp gauge. I noticed the very tip of my temp needle is a tiny bit to the right on the center tick once its warmed up. Depending how long I've driven I noticed the needle starting to creep to the first tick from center when I'm stopped and idling. Sometimes it barely reaches the first tick and starts to climb back down in the same pace it went up. Other times it might hang there a few seconds and climbs back down again. Often it seems the split second I start to move from a stop is when it starts coming down. It stays at the center tick during any other time driving around (highway, city etc). It just climbs when stopped/idle after an ok amount of driving.
> 
> Car still had the original black temp sensor which I swapped for a green a while back. Climatronic trick shows it rising as the needle moves, I think it hit 101 usually when it climbs down again. Both fans came on with climatronic turned on but I'll have to double check again. Any other checks I should start with to see what's going on?


If the fans are operating properly and the climatronic readings are inline with the gauge needle, start looking at partially stuck thermostat and/or failing water pump impellers. These signs, when caught early, can help you prepare and prevent more headache down the roads.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

hermes350GT said:


> someone on here already asked about doing that and the general consensus was not to cut it out because it would would the structural integrity.


Yup, cutting a unibody is not smart. The bracing that would be needed to bring back the loss in rigidity makes it pointless to do for weight saving purposes ... unless you don't mind a spaghetti-feeling rear end. :laugh:


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## Dark Zero (Feb 17, 2005)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> If the fans are operating properly and the climatronic readings are inline with the gauge needle, start looking at partially stuck thermostat and/or failing water pump impellers. These signs, when caught early, can help you prepare and prevent more headache down the roads.


Thanks Max. I was thinking of swapping the thermostat and while its out peeking at the condition of the water pump. Sadly might have to take it to the shop since I don't have space to do such things now :/


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## peter139 (May 4, 2005)

Tommorow i will do a timing belt change.

I've this hydraulic roller. (pic below)

Is it normal that the bearing can twist a little (0.5-1mm) ? Everything is brand new, manufactured by Gates.


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## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Yup, cutting a unibody is not smart. The bracing that would be needed to bring back the loss in rigidity makes it pointless to do for weight saving purposes ... unless you don't mind a spaghetti-feeling rear end. :laugh:


I did plan on doing a roll cage. Wouldn't that equal out the rigidity?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

chrisc351 said:


> I did plan on doing a roll cage. Wouldn't that equal out the rigidity?


In that case, yes! Make sure there are multiple rearward bracing points so there is no possible flopiness back there from the cutout. :thumbup:


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## H_C (May 4, 2007)

My car is having some sputtering issues off a cold start so I looked at the vacuum lines and sure enough they were in pretty bad shape so I'm going to repalce them. First off, any advice/tips/tricks before I get started? It seems simple enough. My real question is about the size of the tube. I'm looking at 3mm or 4mm silicone tubes that are about the same price. Would ordering the bigger 4mm tubes do anything for my stock 225 TT?

EDIT: Also, how much tubing should I get?


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## hermes350GT (Oct 18, 2013)

H_C said:


> My car is having some sputtering issues off a cold start so I looked at the vacuum lines and sure enough they were in pretty bad shape so I'm going to repalce them. First off, any advice/tips/tricks before I get started? It seems simple enough. My real question is about the size of the tube. I'm looking at 3mm or 4mm silicone tubes that are about the same price. Would ordering the bigger 4mm tubes do anything for my stock 225 TT?
> 
> EDIT: Also, how much tubing should I get?


I used 4mm and it fit well and made no difference. As for advice. Do each hose one by one. Disconnect it, line it up to the new hose to measure and cut then replace. Easy as that. I'm on mobile but there is a picture with the sizes for the hoses on some of the forums. As for how much. Silliconeintakes.com has a dress up kit which should be enough, or the shop kit which has a lot more


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## [email protected] (Dec 14, 2013)

Should a brand new Bosch 044 rattle when you shake it ?


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## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

How much do the heated seats in a TT weigh?


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## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

So I have a automatic fwd TT. A friend is selling me his 6-speed manual transmission with quattro. What I know I need: Quattro front and rear axles, ECU, Pedal assembly. 
Am I missing anything? Is the dash capable of being swapped to a manual or do I have to swap that out too? If I'm missing anything please let me know! 

Picture for attention (haldex wouldn't like it too much :laugh


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## Tempes_TT (Oct 24, 2010)

Youll also be missing the entire rear end off a haldex car. (Floor panel, fuel tank etc.) Are you being sold the rear subframe with control arms, trailing arms, hubs and all? Cause youll need those too. 

Not to be the buzz kill here, but I hope you know that isnt a bolt on mod... If you have the means and the $$ to do it, then by all means, tackle away. But the concept and idea here is no different than trying to turn a mk4 gti into an r32. Youll be so much better off selling yours and buying a haldex TT. Youll save yourself a ton of money, time and effort.


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## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

Tempes_TT said:


> Youll also be missing the entire rear end off a haldex car. (Floor panel, fuel tank etc.) Are you being sold the rear subframe with control arms, trailing arms, hubs and all? Cause youll need those too.
> 
> Not to be the buzz kill here, but I hope you know that isnt a bolt on mod... If you have the means and the $$ to do it, then by all means, tackle away. But the concept and idea here is no different than trying to turn a mk4 gti into an r32. Youll be so much better off selling yours and buying a haldex TT. Youll save yourself a ton of money, time and effort.


I think what I would do is source all the front end stuff and just leave the driveshaft out so I can recover a bit and source everything I need. It'd be a winter project so there wouldn't be a hurry. I wouldn't think dropping the the axle and all the suspension will be that difficult. Getting the trans in should be fairly straight forward (have a good amount of experience with other transmissions). Sourcing everything seems to be the serious issue. 

I was hoping maybe someone who totaled theirs or is parting theirs out could just sell me their front axle with all the suspension, control arms, sub frame etc still attached.


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## [email protected] (Dec 14, 2013)

A TT with a bad motor sells for almost nothing these days I seem them in good shape with a bad head due to belt failure in other wise good shape for well under 3 grand. So my advise would be buy one and swap the motor from your it source a used one.

I know pretty little about me mechanical things related to what you want to do but even I know it's just plain not worth it.


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## BoostedLTH (Mar 19, 2014)

Time is money and money is money. Both of which you'll have a **** ton of wrapped up in a swap. Not to mention the recuperation of cost will be pennies on the dollar if you ever resell. If you must swap, then I would suggest finding a parts car to use as a donor then part it the rest of the way out after. A+ for wanting to try a good sized project though!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Tempes_TT said:


> Youll also be missing the entire rear end off a haldex car. (Floor panel, fuel tank etc.)


If I remember correctly you're right. The rear body itself is different and you would need to cut the floor out of a shell to make the Quattro rear fit.


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## [email protected] (Dec 14, 2013)

Will this work with an IE fuel rail I know this is a stupid question but how would I need to plumb this in http://www.jegs.com/i/Aeromotive/02...4&cadevice=m&gclid=CKyp9MnLssECFVaAaQodGIMAcQ


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## Dark Zero (Feb 17, 2005)

My question(s) is about the SERVICE indicator. When should it trigger on start up? I thought it was 2000km/1000miles until 0. I noticed a few weeks ago even though its at service due at 400 it doesn't display on start up. I can check by pressing the left button on the cluster. Is the service interval based on mileage or a combination of mileage/time? Lastly is the indicator solely for oil change or does it also used for any other service? I think I read based on some vag-com lines that it was oil, 1 year and 2 year services but not sure if that even applies to our cars at all.

Anyway I know last time I reset the indicator it displayed at 1000miles if I'm not mistaken which once reset jumped it to 10k. Now it appears to not display unless I manually check.



Also, for those you doing much less than 5k miles per year. What OCI are you going with?


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

I change mine once a year before I start driving it again. Approx every 1k miles


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## Dark Zero (Feb 17, 2005)

PLAYED TT said:


> I change mine once a year before I start driving it again. Approx every 1k miles


I guess we in a similar boat then . Good to know.


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## [email protected] (Dec 14, 2013)

So I need to know how an after market fuel rail and fpr needs to be plumbed.

Where the feed from pump goes to rail fpr and where it goes to return line


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## Holtzy822 (Oct 20, 2014)

Whoo Hoo! First post on here and new owner of a 2000 180Q, previous car (first car) was a porsche 944 but sold it... well because everyone wants to go faster. Anyways, heres my stupid question(s): 

1. I'm losing boost pressure, I found a hole in that main hose that comes off the N75 and patched that up with duct tape lol, It pulls A LOT harder now but still not getting stock boost levels (im running a boost gauge) What other boost hoses are there, is there any diagrams of the boost and vacuum lines? 

2. It doesn't like to start cold... Ill crank it for a few seconds and it wont start, Ill crank it again right after and it'll start right up. I think I'm losing pressure in the fuel rail. 

3. my car doesn't have the spoiler but has ESC... but I like the spoiler aha, can the car still be brought back to a dealership and get the spoiler put on under the recall? 

4. The sad one. While getting new tires put on, the "professionals" at my local tire shop decided they were going to jack up the car on the rocker panels which promptly collapsed. Anywhere to source new ones (I will NOT be paying for them) 

5. How can I tell if my ESC is on or off? There is no light on the dash and the button doesn't light up... 

6. How much boost can the stock internals take? 

That's all for now... I'm sure Ill have more pretty soon. 

Eventually I want to get it on lowering springs (cant afford coilovers as a highschooler ) and with even more luck, a 3" exhaust, big brake it, Chipped, an MBC with the forge DV/BOV.... and maybe some carbon bits from OSIR... Ideally I'd love it to put out around 200-250 whp... Any thoughts on how to get there? will the chip, exhaust, and mbc do it?


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Welcome Holtzy! To dive right in, have a look below.

1. The first thing I would do is acquire a full version of VCDS (at minimum the lite version). The reason being is that we need to make sure the ECU is requesting more pressure than you are currently seeing which keeps you from chasing your tail throwing money into things that don't matter. What are your vacuum readings on the boost gauge at idle stationary and also with your foot off the gas coasting down the highway in top gear?

2. Does this happen all the time or only when the tank is low? There is another thread on here which the owner has an issue starting with first turn only when tank is low, make sure to check this out.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7056995-Hard-to-start-when-cold-then-runs-fine

3. Pretty sure you missed recall window, but a quick phone call to your local dealer can confirm.

4. I would bet you can get them from ECS (http://www.ecstuning.com/)

5. Take a turn to fast and see if the throttle cuts out :laugh: Safer move is at a stop sign if you are making a left or right turn... just rip 1st a bit harder than normal with your steering wheel cut hard.. this blips the symbol on my dash and cuts the throttle temporarily until traction is regained.

6. Your internals won't die just from pressure.. its all about the power you make (lower end) and the revs you take the motor too (top end). A really big turbo application won't be high pressure, but will make enough TQ to destroy your rods. If you are just going for a chip and exhaust, you should be just fine without having to beef anything up for your desired power levels.

Best of luck with the new ride!


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## Holtzy822 (Oct 20, 2014)

Boulderhead said:


> Welcome Holtzy! To dive right in, have a look below.
> 
> 1. The first thing I would do is acquire a full version of VCDS (at minimum the lite version). The reason being is that we need to make sure the ECU is requesting more pressure than you are currently seeing which keeps you from chasing your tail throwing money into things that don't matter. What are your vacuum readings on the boost gauge at idle stationary and also with your foot off the gas coasting down the highway in top gear?
> 
> ...


Thanks! 
1. Whats VCDS?

2. I saw that thread, Its all the time...

3. Ill be sure to do that... I'm not going to spend a ton of money on a spoiler if audi will give it to me aha 

4. Ill look it up, There isnt any structural damage so I might just try and get a set of NICE tires or a little cash... 

5. So theres no indicator on the dash to say if its on or off?

6. sweet, Like I said before, Id like to get about 220 hp out of it so Ive been reading that the engine will be fine up to 300...


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## Holtzy822 (Oct 20, 2014)

OHHHH vcds is VAG-Com... okay lol Yeah I was going to get the lite version pretty soon.


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Holtzy822 said:


> Thanks!
> 1. Whats VCDS?
> 
> 2. I saw that thread, Its all the time...
> ...


2. Have you changed fuel filter or run any injector cleaner through the car recently? Very possible you have the original fuel filter which may be restricting flow. How do your plugs look? 

5. The only time I see the indicator is when I turn it off..


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## Holtzy822 (Oct 20, 2014)

Boulderhead said:


> 2. Have you changed fuel filter or run any injector cleaner through the car recently? Very possible you have the original fuel filter which may be restricting flow. How do your plugs look?
> 
> 5. The only time I see the indicator is when I turn it off..


2. Yeah I ran some through it when I got the car about a week or 2 ago, I havent checked the plugs yet but will probably do so this week some time. 

5. I get the ESP light when I turn the car off and on, Thats about it lol


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## Alcrerion (Feb 16, 2012)

During an inner CV boot change on the front drivers side axle I lost the crimp clamp that goes over the large end. I can't find any retailers selling just clamps, only the entire kits. I have a universal Dorman clamp on there at the moment (the kind that's a metal tab that you just bend back) but don't have a lot of faith that it'll keep the boot on there.

Question: Anyone know the size of the large inner cv boot crimp clamp?


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## H_C (May 4, 2007)

Will this plug into the 6 disc CD changer spot on the back of my unit? 
I have the Bose premium sound package with a 6 disc behind the driver seat but I would rather have bluetooth/usb/aux than 6 disks to choose from. 

http://www.xcarlink.com/show_info.asp?product_ID=352

That would be awesome if it was just plug and play


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## Dark Zero (Feb 17, 2005)

This is for the tire and haldex gurus. I just got a set of 18x8 and 18x9 wheels with tires. I feel ignorant even asking this. The 18x9s came with 225/40 tires with decent tread depth left. I was thinking of replacing both the 18x8 tires with a used/decent set with similar tread depth since one tire is shot. Would this be a very bad idea because of the haldex? If it's ok, should I not mix brands and stick with the same model/brand? Feel I might as well get some use out of the decent tires if I can.

If the above is all ok, should I go with 225/40 all around? Move the 225/40s from the rear to the front and get say 235/40 in the rear?


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## garomy (Jun 27, 2014)

I have 225/40 front and 255/35 rear on 18 x 9.5 f/r. Rear are wider but same overall diameter.


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## BoostedLTH (Mar 19, 2014)

Yeah. As long as rolling diameter is the same or within 4%? I think? It works out. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Dark Zero said:


> This is for the tire and haldex gurus. I just got a set of 18x8 and 18x9 wheels with tires. I feel ignorant even asking this. The 18x9s came with 225/40 tires with decent tread depth left. I was thinking of replacing both the 18x8 tires with a used/decent set with similar tread depth since one tire is shot. Would this be a very bad idea because of the haldex? If it's ok, should I not mix brands and stick with the same model/brand? Feel I might as well get some use out of the decent tires if I can.
> 
> If the above is all ok, should I go with 225/40 all around? Move the 225/40s from the rear to the front and get say 235/40 in the rear?


As noted, rolling diameter is critical when going staggered. You can safely use 225/40 with 255/35; and 235/40 with 265/35 with those wheels. You may need thin spacers to prevent rubbing on shock towers or fender liners...offset dependent of course.

B.

Edit: I have the 235s and 265s on my 8s and 9s.


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## BoostedLTH (Mar 19, 2014)

Good info there^ For what it's worth, I'm on 17x9 et35 with 245/40 all around. Only rubbing is up front at full lock steering. I'm lowered on H&R springs 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Dark Zero (Feb 17, 2005)

Thanks for the info guys. Off-sets are 35 on the 8" and 38 on the 9" if I'm not mistaken. So any advice on the used/mixing brands idea I mentioned? Would the 225/40 all around be ok with the mild stretch the rears have? I'm actually glad you guys are mentioning "proper" sizes rather than 215s on a 10" wheel


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Dark Zero said:


> Thanks for the info guys. Off-sets are 35 on the 8" and 38 on the 9" if I'm not mistaken. So any advice on the used/mixing brands idea I mentioned? Would the 225/40 all around be ok with the mild stretch the rears have? I'm actually glad you guys are mentioning "proper" sizes rather than 215s on a 10" wheel


The main issue I see with the stretched 225s is that you lose rim protection....much easier to do severe curb damage/pot hole damage. One of the main reasons I went with the 235/265 set up was that it gave me better rim protection. I'm on of those guys that are pretty anal about preventing curb damage. In fact, I effing hate curbed wheels.

Those are the same offset as mine. When I lowered mine on Eibachs (1 inch) and then H&Rs (1.5 inch), I got some rubbing in the rear (inner fender liner). A 5mm spacer (with extended lug bolts) solved the problem. I doubt you'd have the rubbing with the stretched 225s on the rear but when you go to a proper size, you might if you are not at stock height.

I personally don't advise mixing brands (I don't have any facts to support it. Maybe because I'm old and back in the day mixing tire brands was only for crazy people) but I'm not so sure that for normal driving conditions, if the tread is good that there would be any adverse impact. If the tread is good on the current tires, even with the stretch, and they are appropriate for your winter conditions I'd not change at this point. Might as well wear them out and replace them when they do wear out but get all done at the same time to ensure a matched set.

B.


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## Dark Zero (Feb 17, 2005)

That was the idea, get at least some life out of these while I can and down the line replace them all with the proper new set. Since one of the front tires is completely shot, figured replace both fronts. I know finding the same model used and similar tread depth won't be easy thus if a similar model would have been ok.


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## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

Anyone know how much horsepower and torque a 6-speed tiptronic can handle? I'm doing a hybrid turbo build and want to get the most out of it on my stock transmission. 

Before I get flammed I do plan on doing a 02M 6-speed swap. I just have about half the parts for the turbo build and no parts for the trans. Once I swap the transmission then I'll be putting new software on a new chip so I figured turbo first


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Tiptronics are junk for any kind of mods, more power kills them quicker and they aren't great to begin with. You could mod the Tip with aftermarket parts but that goes against the swap you mentioned, you almost may as well build the engine and have fun killing the auto while collecting parts for the manual swap, they aren't worth much anyway.


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## H_C (May 4, 2007)

My 225 was running very sluggish and the cold start idle was rough. One code that popped up was "system to lean" so I changed the spark plugs and it works great now. Should I disconnect the battery for the 15 to reset the Ecu? Will that also clear the codes?


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

H_C said:


> My 225 was running very sluggish and the cold start idle was rough. One code that popped up was "system to lean" so I changed the spark plugs and it works great now. Should I disconnect the battery for the 15 to reset the Ecu? Will that also clear the codes?


You can pull the battery cable to reset things, but you can also just leave the car as is.. and if you truly corrected the problem then your ECU will adapt and put the CEL out on its own once its happy


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## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

l88m22vette said:


> Tiptronics are junk for any kind of mods, more power kills them quicker and they aren't great to begin with. You could mod the Tip with aftermarket parts but that goes against the swap you mentioned, you almost may as well build the engine and have fun killing the auto while collecting parts for the manual swap, they aren't worth much anyway.


So maybe shoot for a tune of 260-270hp at the wheels to play it a bit safe and then after the 02M swap then worry about bigger power. It's a 180hp so it's a fairly decent bump to fill the void temporarily. I'm not doing anything too crazy just a hybrid turbo, cams, intake manifold. Already have all the other supporting stuff like intake, dv, FMIC tune etc. 

The plan is to shoot for anywhere from 310-350 with the hybrid turbo at the wheels. I think that'd be a good start for my first "bigger" turbo.


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## mhmmm (Feb 7, 2013)

*Random trunk light question*

Random question: Does your interior hatch and trunk lights come on every time you open the hatch? At first it didn't work at all for me. Then I replaced the switch in the hatch lock, and it still only works about 2/3 of the time and I'm not sure if this is normal.


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## mhmmm (Feb 7, 2013)

*Shift knob question*

Does anyone know if the aluminum bezel on the shift knob is removable, or if you have to start tearing the knob apart to get to this. I am having 2 issues: 
1. the bezel and plastic window rotate slightly, which is annoying.
2. The bezel is dinged up because of someone's ring, and I'd like to replace it.

Thanks!


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## H_C (May 4, 2007)

mhmmm said:


> Does anyone know if the aluminum bezel on the shift knob is removable, or if you have to start tearing the knob apart to get to this. I am having 2 issues:
> 1. the bezel and plastic window rotate slightly, which is annoying.
> 2. The bezel is dinged up because of someone's ring, and I'd like to replace it.
> 
> Thanks!


Almost everything on the shifter is replaceable/removeable
Here are instructions on how to remove it all with pictures
http://www.redlinegoods.com/AudiTTinstall.php


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## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

I got a REAL stupid question. The kinda question this thread was founded on.

Ok I've had my ccws on and off my car for a while now and I'm slightly disappointed with the way the car sits on my bilstein pss9 coil overs. 
I know bilsteins don't go low and I know most people ditch the front helper springs to get moar lowss out of em at the sacrifice for the effective dampening height, but I hardly drive this car so I figured why not

So question is do I have to remove the coil over to pull the helpers under the main spring??. I just did strut mounts last night and it looked remotely possible but I don't want to overextend anything. Anyone remove helpers like this ? 


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## Holtzy822 (Oct 20, 2014)

I have a pretty stupid question. If I unbolt the exhaust after the cat but before the resonator where that clamp is, can it possibly do damage to the engine? I have a 180Q. My friend with a 1.8 jetta has been running it like that for about a month now on the weekends and is supporting the down pipe with wire.... Im just thinking about getting some piping and running it to the back of the car with no res or muffler. Will this sound different from just dumping it with no piping after the cat?


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## inspiredbymick (Jul 6, 2014)

Holtzy822 said:


> I have a pretty stupid question. If I unbolt the exhaust after the cat but before the resonator where that clamp is, can it possibly do damage to the engine? I have a 180Q. My friend with a 1.8 jetta has been running it like that for about a month now on the weekends and is supporting the down pipe with wire.... Im just thinking about getting some piping and running it to the back of the car with no res or muffler. Will this sound different from just dumping it with no piping after the cat?




If you run it with no piping right after the cat, it will be loud and sound horrible...like a tractor. 

I myself have a 3" down pipe with no cat, and I left the resonator on, but cut the muffler off and ran pipes from the resonator back. My exhaust sounds aftermarket, deep, and its loud but not TOO loud. 

Search youtube for "Audi TT muffler delete" , there are a ton of videos of TT's with exhaust mods.


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## Holtzy822 (Oct 20, 2014)

Im thinking I just want to run a straight pipe after the cat. Will that cause any engine problems? Sorry, I'm not very inclined with exhausts... now suspension on the other hand lol


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## Dark Zero (Feb 17, 2005)

For those of you who put their cars away for winter, what do you guys do or go about it? Might be this week mine is put away or getting close.  Seeing if I should add any better steps or methods.


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Dark Zero said:


> For those of you who put their cars away for winter, what do you guys do or go about it? Might be this week mine is put away or getting close.  Seeing if I should add any better steps or methods.


I fill tank completely, and usually bring it up to operating temp once a month with a lap around town to avoid getting flat spots on the tires. Trickle charger on the battery


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

Boulderhead said:


> I fill tank completely, and usually bring it up to operating temp once a month with a lap around town to avoid getting flat spots on the tires. Trickle charger on the battery


Why start it?

Normally I would fill up and add fuel stablizer. Oil change before and after putting away and throw on a trickle charger. I've never had a problem with flat spots either. Put a cover over it and call it a day.


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## inspiredbymick (Jul 6, 2014)

Holtzy822 said:


> Im thinking I just want to run a straight pipe after the cat. Will that cause any engine problems? Sorry, I'm not very inclined with exhausts... now suspension on the other hand lol


No functional problems there; only gamble is you may or may not like the noise.


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Neb said:


> Why start it?
> 
> Normally I would fill up and add fuel stablizer. Oil change before and after putting away and throw on a trickle charger. I've never had a problem with flat spots either. Put a cover over it and call it a day.


Mainly because a month of driving the subaru leaves me feeling quite depressed  and we usually get a few nice days throughout the winter to bring the TT out of hibernation. Good to hear you never had trouble with flat spots on tires.. it happened once when I went away for school, but that was a much longer time frame the car was sitting.


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## [email protected] (Dec 14, 2013)

Anything wrong with painting a Bosch 044


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## [email protected] (Dec 14, 2013)

Anyone have a diagram of the fuel system for 1.8awp. I forgot to label which one was return and which was feed.


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## BoostedLTH (Mar 19, 2014)

What size is the filter needed for the end of the SAI tube that normally plugs into the air box? haha.


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## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

I'm planning on upgrading my intake manifold soon in prep for a medium sized hybrid turbo setup. Currently I'm stage 2. 

Would it be beneficiary to change some other things out like fuel rails and maybe larger injectors? Would I have to get retuned to actually optimize them? Or would it be good if I just bought them and put them in storage until I upgrade the turbo and cam? 

Also, does anyone have experience with either the Integrated Engineering manifold or the SEM manifold? I'm stuck between the two and obviously want the better performing manifold. 


Thanks to the knowledgeable that can answer this for me!


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## Tempes_TT (Oct 24, 2010)

chrisc351 said:


> Would it be beneficiary to change some other things out like fuel rails and maybe larger injectors? Would I have to get retuned to actually optimize them? Or would it be good if I just bought them and put them in storage until I upgrade the turbo and cam?


Injector size is heavily dependent on your tune, so use what your tune calls for. Injectors are not really considered a "bolt-on" upgrade.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

chrisc351 said:


> I'm planning on upgrading my intake manifold soon in prep for a medium sized hybrid turbo setup. Currently I'm stage 2.
> 
> Would it be beneficiary to change some other things out like fuel rails and maybe larger injectors? Would I have to get retuned to actually optimize them? Or would it be good if I just bought them and put them in storage until I upgrade the turbo and cam?
> 
> ...



Unless your motor is built I would do a rod install before a new intake manifold to take advantage of the power. It's no secret that our stock manifolds are garbage but there's a lot of other places you can put your money towards. In fact, I have a big turbo car with a stock manifold because I wanted to put the money elsewhere. I'll eventually upgrade but it wasn't on the top of my list. 

Unless you're going for looks the stock fuel rail is fine. 

Your injector size will be dependent on your tune and setup. You need to plan your injector size for your power goals, but since hybrids are pretty common there's plenty of canned solutions out there already. 

SEM is the best but IE isn't far behind and you have the ability to flip the throttle body to either side.


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## chrisc351 (Feb 17, 2011)

I'm doing a bigger turbo setup on my fwd automatic. A buddy of mine just sold me an 02M trans and clutch for a quattro car. Obviously I need different axles. With the correct ones inserted into the transmission will it fit up to brake hub (not sure what to really call it). Will they be longer for a quattro and the 225. :sly:

I'd like to use as much as my front setup as I could so, coilovers, brakes, suspension etc. So basically I'd like to keep as much as I can from my original setup if at all possible. 

Thanks to those that can help! :thumbup:


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## hermes350GT (Oct 18, 2013)

is 950-970 rpm safe to have at idle? I raised it with unisettings to help rid my cabin and steering wheel of vibrations from my stiffer mounts.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

hermes350GT said:


> is 950-970 rpm safe to have at idle? I raised it with unisettings to help rid my cabin and steering wheel of vibrations from my stiffer mounts.


Yes Sir, fine and perfectly safe! 

I run mine at 1,000 rpm - this way it's easiest to spot any anomaly if it's not sitting dead smack on the 1k mark.


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## H_C (May 4, 2007)

Anyone know the best place to find the same color paint to fix the original fat 5s rims? I have a set and want to fix the curb damage they came with.


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

H_C said:


> Anyone know the best place to find the same color paint to fix the original fat 5s rims? I have a set and want to fix the curb damage they came with.


As I recall, they are polished, not painted. Clear coat on top.

B.


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## hotgrass (Aug 22, 2008)

what would be the safest and least expensive way of changing the stock turbo? i currently have 225 with ko4 turbo and thinking of upgrading the turbo but i wanted to see some gains with the least amount of $. How much would it cost to upgrade? im just using it for daily driving and I dont really do tracks. Also, i live in California where we have strict emissions


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## jesriva (Dec 14, 2014)

*Intercooler help!!*

hello i have a 2003 fwd audi tt 1.8 180hp i was wondering if u can email me more pics about the cts intercooler? im kinda struggling to find out how to connect the top mount piping into the turbo? do i need to remove anything? intercooler question 

https://flic.kr/p/rnW4Vy


the yellow arrow what.


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## jesriva (Dec 14, 2014)

hotgrass said:


> what would be the safest and least expensive way of changing the stock turbo? i currently have 225 with ko4 turbo and thinking of upgrading the turbo but i wanted to see some gains with the least amount of $. How much would it cost to upgrade? im just using it for daily driving and I dont really do tracks. Also, i live in California where we have strict emissions



honestly just do full boltons and a tune, i live in california as well and emissions is just hard to pass and if u can pass it with a certain person itll be atleast 3times more expensive than regular smog test. soo id say just go full cat back intake, tune , and get a fmic.


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## TTazRS (Feb 1, 2012)

jesriva said:


> honestly just do full boltons and a tune, i live in california as well and emissions is just hard to pass and if u can pass it with a certain person itll be atleast 3times more expensive than regular smog test. soo id say just go full cat back intake, tune , and get a fmic.


or move to a state the EPA doesn't have by the balls.


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## hotgrass (Aug 22, 2008)

jesriva said:


> honestly just do full boltons and a tune, i live in california as well and emissions is just hard to pass and if u can pass it with a certain person itll be atleast 3times more expensive than regular smog test. soo id say just go full cat back intake, tune , and get a fmic.


so sad here in CALI :banghead:


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## Joe 1984 (Jan 24, 2015)

Putting my car back together 2001 Audi TT 180q .....I can't seem to find the connector for the map sensor any pics on where it comes from on the harness would be greatly appreciated. Thank you


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## hermes350GT (Oct 18, 2013)

So I'm fitting my madmax DV, It sits about 1/4" above the strut bar. The hood still closes, am I ok?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

hermes350GT said:


> So I'm fitting my madmax DV, It sits about 1/4" above the strut bar. The hood still closes, am I ok?


Make sure you install it in push orientation, and if the hood closes without any effort you should be good to go. :thumbup:


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## hermes350GT (Oct 18, 2013)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Make sure you install it in push orientation, and if the hood closes without any effort you should be good to go. :thumbup:



Like this?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Wrong orientation, flip it around! 

These valves, just like the OEM Bosch units btw, are designed to operate in push orientation (charge pressure entering the bottom of the valve to push the diaphragm plate). If you look on the side of the madmax valve, you'll see in/out arrows casted in the valve to show the proper flow path through it. 

The push orientation is much safer because both charge pressure and vacuum combine to operate the valve. Therefore, if you loose vacuum signal for example (a popped pressure reference hose, or weak vacuum), you'll have the valve still operating as a pop-off valve once the internal spring pressure is exceeded, and still protecting your turbo (a feature that's not there when mounted in pull orientation). 

The reason we see flipped valves around is because at some point Audi issued a TSB asking dealers to flip the Bosch valves at service. The TSB came as a result of complaints that the plastic valves were oprating poorly, not holding pressure, and making a honking noise. Audi only decided to ask dealers to reverse the weak valves to prevent a costly recall.


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## hermes350GT (Oct 18, 2013)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Wrong orientation, flip it around!
> 
> These valves, just like the OEM Bosch units btw, are designed to operate in push orientation (charge pressure entering the bottom of the valve to push the diaphragm plate). If you look on the side of the madmax valve, you'll see in/out arrows casted in the valve to show the proper flow path through it.
> 
> ...


Ah alright, cuz thats the way my stock valve was (nipple on top) I'll flip it around then! thanks!


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## Tempes_TT (Oct 24, 2010)

So following the basic formula given to me (bore x .0050/.0055) I come up with a ring gap of .016 for the top, and .018 (.0176) for the second. My question/concern is, the second compression rings have come out to be .021 out of the box... whats up with that? 

Now Ive read that people have ran ~.020 gaps on the bottom, but I guess Im just at a loss as to what I should do? Top ring isnt of concern as the gaps are around .013 out of the box, so I have to file those down. 

(for those not in the loop with my current build, this is on a freshly bored block for a gtx2867r build - expecting to run 25-30psi)


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## PolarTT (Jan 17, 2014)

*Question regarding cluster*

I just got my cluster rebuilt and everything seems fine. Noticed this morning while driving (with lights on) that the needles for the fuel gauge and thermostat don't glow like the needles for the tachometer and speedometer. Is this normal? I seem to remember that they should glow. Just wanted to check before contacting garage.

TIA


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## killjoy593 (Apr 27, 2015)

PolarTT said:


> I just got my cluster rebuilt and everything seems fine. Noticed this morning while driving (with lights on) that the needles for the fuel gauge and thermostat don't glow like the needles for the tachometer and speedometer. Is this normal? I seem to remember that they should glow. Just wanted to check before contacting garage.
> 
> TIA


Yup, you remembered correctly. The thermostat and fuel gauge do glow.


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## dieGone (Sep 25, 2015)

What's the stock size exhaust piping on the Audi TT 225 Coupe?

Best size to run I heard 3" correct?


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## PolarTT (Jan 17, 2014)

Ok. Thanks - the needles glow - most of the time. Occasionally they will glow at start up and then not. Not sure if it an electrical connection issue when the cluster panel was reassembled or a gremlin elsewhere. Didn't have this issue before the cluster rebuild.

On a related electrical issue note - periodically the interior lights will not come on when the car is unlocked or the key is removed after turning off ignition. The interior lights will also not come on when using the overhead switch. This doesn't happen all the time, just intermittently. Lights come on in trunk when the hatch is opened so it's not a universal problem.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks


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## SteveCJr (Aug 3, 2008)

PolarTT said:


> Ok. Thanks - the needles glow - most of the time. Occasionally they will glow at start up and then not. Not sure if it an electrical connection issue when the cluster panel was reassembled or a gremlin elsewhere. Didn't have this issue before the cluster rebuild.
> 
> On a related electrical issue note - periodically the interior lights will not come on when the car is unlocked or the key is removed after turning off ignition. The interior lights will also not come on when using the overhead switch. This doesn't happen all the time, just intermittently. Lights come on in trunk when the hatch is opened so it's not a universal problem.
> 
> ...


My dome light also does this. Usually have to press on the switch really hard and move it back and forth a few times for it to stay on when it's suppose to.


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## Wolfeie (Oct 22, 2015)

*Oil / filter recommendations for chilly climate*

What engine oil do you guys use, those of you who replace it yourself? Brand and viscosity, please. Also filter recommendation. I'm not too keen on having to make a 90 minute drive to the local Audi dealer so Walmart (ugh) or similar store availability is preferred. 

Winter is on its way and overnight temps can fall below 0F and warm in the day to a balmy above freezing.

I expect to change the oil and filter at 3500 mile increments.


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## Dark Zero (Feb 17, 2005)

SteveCJr said:


> My dome light also does this. Usually have to press on the switch really hard and move it back and forth a few times for it to stay on when it's suppose to.


Mine does this as well. I usually just tap on the dome light assembly and comes back on. One day I might just remove it and check the board itself.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Wolfeie said:


> What engine oil do you guys use, those of you who replace it yourself? Brand and viscosity, please. Also filter recommendation. I'm not too keen on having to make a 90 minute drive to the local Audi dealer so Walmart (ugh) or similar store availability is preferred.
> 
> Winter is on its way and overnight temps can fall below 0F and warm in the day to a balmy above freezing.
> 
> I expect to change the oil and filter at 3500 mile increments.


Normally Mobil/Motul/LuquiMoly or Shell Rotella T6 5w-40


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## Wolfeie (Oct 22, 2015)

TheDeckMan said:


> Normally Mobil/Motul/LuquiMoly or Shell Rotella T6 5w-40


Thanks Deck. Further reading gets me to Mobil 1 5-40 meets the VW 50x.xx specs so my comfort level is better now. I was reading a bunch of stuff from early 2000's; this link is more current:

http://www.mobil.com/Spain-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_5W-40.aspx

10,000 mile intervals - really?!? Not sure I can do that; old school here...


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## Ltgoin (Jan 1, 2015)

I have a 2004 1.8t 225 that needs a new front diff so in turn I just need a new tranny. Will any 6-speed tranny work or is there a certain code for the year? I would hate to buy the wrong one.


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## asiwa (Dec 18, 2014)

IIRC all 225 TT's used the 02M gearbox. That would be the proper replacement; I'm not personally sure if anything else would mate up correctly as I haven't done much transmission work on my car to this point. I know that a few other cars in the lineup from that general time period used the same gearbox (especially any MkIV Golf with a 6-speed or the like) so you should be able to find with relative ease.


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

All Quattro 4-cylinder TTs use the O2M gearbox. The 180hp quattro is a 5spd O2M, the 225hp quattro is a 6spd O2M. The MKIV Golf R32 also used a 6-spd O2M, but the bell housing is different, since it mates to a vr6.


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## heuer21 (Jul 22, 2006)

is upgrading the speakers in the Bose system worth it? I already had an aftermarket head unit installed so I can have Sat radio and ipod/iphone hook up as well. I do know that the Bose system is somewhere in the car along with the amplifier.

Thanks!


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## tt92103 (Nov 23, 2010)

I have a torn inner front CV boot. (2001 225Q) I can't fix it myself. How many hours of labor will a mechanic charge me to replace it??


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

tt92103 said:


> I have a torn inner front CV boot. (2001 225Q) I can't fix it myself. How many hours of labor will a mechanic charge me to replace it??


Why do you say you can't fix it yourself? I just recently rebuilt both my front axles and they really aren't that bad (just messy). I would imagine a reputable shop would charge between 1 - 1.5 hours of labor per axle, but I really am just guessing on that.


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## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

Boulderhead said:


> Why do you say you can't fix it yourself? I just recently rebuilt both my front axles and they really aren't that bad (just messy). I would imagine a reputable shop would charge between 1 - 1.5 hours of labor per axle.


I recently had this quoted by a good shop. It was 1.5 hours per side.


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## tt92103 (Nov 23, 2010)

Boulderhead said:


> Why do you say you can't fix it yourself? I just recently rebuilt both my front axles and they really aren't that bad (just messy). I would imagine a reputable shop would charge between 1 - 1.5 hours of labor per axle, but I really am just guessing on that.


I have a really really tiny garage which my car barely fits into. I assumed I would need a lot of space to do this type of job but, you have inspired me to study some axle DIY guides and maybe I will give it a shot.


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

If you have a bench vise, mini sledge hammer, snap ring pliers, ear clamp pliers, and the right driver bit for the axle to trans bolts u are in great shape. Hit me up if you have any questions


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

I've replaced both inners and both outer boots on my front axles. Hardest part was hammering the outer CV joints off the axle. Totally a DIY. Totally messy as well.

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## tt92103 (Nov 23, 2010)

Boulderhead said:


> If you have a bench vise, mini sledge hammer, snap ring pliers, ear clamp pliers, and the right driver bit for the axle to trans bolts u are in great shape. Hit me up if you have any questions


I have exactly *none* of those tools but maybe a trip to Harbor Freight can solve that problem. But I do have the CV Boot Clamp Pliers! Still new never opened yet.


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## nilreb (Mar 17, 2012)

assuming the black area is not a powder coat is there a way to strip the paint to replace it with gun metal?
i want to keep the machined face.


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## nitroTT (Jun 20, 2015)

Hi I put an open intake and a 3" exhaust system from stock on my 3.2 l tt do I need a remap to stop the check engine light from coming on?

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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

nitroTT said:


> Hi I put an open intake and a 3" exhaust system from stock on my 3.2 l tt do I need a remap to stop the check engine light from coming on?
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


You'd have to know what caused the CEL to be on to know how to fix it.  Get the codes scanned and go from there, but if you didn't install a catalytic converter in the 3" exhaust, that would be your problem. Some tuners can write out the CEL from no cat in your ECU software.


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## nitroTT (Jun 20, 2015)

Sorry I checked the codes and they are on because of the o2 sensors and I put on the MagnaFlow high flow cats

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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

Sounds like time for an O2 sensor spacer. I tried doing the spark plug anti-fouler, but I couldn't drill out the proper diameter without messing up the threads, so I ordered a $50 O2 spacer. Check engine light went away two days later.


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## tt92103 (Nov 23, 2010)

I am due for a new timing belt and I have called a few places and was told it is 7 hours labor. And there is a Youtube video showing an Audi TT timing belt change and the guy in the video says it is around 7 hours.

Today I called one last place and they said it is a 4 hour job. Is it possible to change the timing belt in 4 hours????


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

It's definitely possible in 4 hours if you've done a dozen of them already. The biggest PITA is working around that darn motor mount. Some cars are loose enough where it will drop down and you can get some room, but the last two I've done were in there so tight I had to unbolt it and let it rest between the side of the engine bay and the block while I removed the Timing Belt, water pump, tensioner and idler pulley.


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## tt92103 (Nov 23, 2010)

I made an appointment to get my timing belt changed at the above mentioned shop that is only charging me 4 hours vs 7 hour quote from every other place I called. $100/hour. The guy that is going to change my timing belt is a former Audi technician and he drives a 2001 TT! So I guess he knows what he is doing. I bought a timing belt kit from ECSTuning.

Would it be a stupid waste of money to also have my oil sump removed and inspected and cleaned? My car has 125k miles and I have heard that sludge can be a problem with this engine.


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## H_C (May 4, 2007)

I bought the replacement FOB from the link below. Is there any way to make it work for my car through a manual programming process or do I need to take it to the dealership? I found a locksmith to cut it for $55 bucks but he said he doesn't have the software to program it. Should I just have the dealership do it all?

Reason: I have only one key at the moment and the part connecting it to the FOB broke (not the actual key). I glued it back together and it works fine but I'd like to have a spare just in case.

Edit: I also have hex-net vag-com scanner if that helps anything. I couldn't find anything on their website about it.

http://yourkeylessremote.com/products/item/4569


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

You should be able to code the new key once it's cut by using the old key at the same time. It's a one-in-the-door, one-in-the-ignition procedure, IIRC. Should be easy to find on here or on the mkIV forums. When I got my new key back in '09, I paid the dealer $170 for it, and encoding was part of the cost. Hopefully you can save $50 by doing it yourself.


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## nitroTT (Jun 20, 2015)

I think I found a better palace for this question. I've been looking into taking a pair of 13x5.5 steel wheels and making them 13x12 to fit a set of Hoosier slicks that I have. The process of doing this seems pretty straight forward but would this have an effect on the balance of the rim? And Could I just use wheel weights to balance the rims? Just wondering if anyone has done this?


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## Indiepunk (Feb 14, 2007)

*After Market Stereo Slides Out/Need to Replace Fuel Flap Actuator*

This seems like a thread I've been needing. I've been ignoring that my after market stereo keeps sliding out when I accelerate. I've had so many other TT problems keeping me busy but I want to tackle this soon. I have these left and right side plastic wedges filling in the sides since the face plate I used with my old Clarion wouldn't fit my new Kenwood KDC-X599. I was having problems getting the stereo in place with the metal cage on that came with the stereo. How important is that to keeping it in place? 

Also, this weekend my fuel flap got stuck open. I got a used actuator out of Jetta to see if that's what went. Does anyone have the Bentley diagram for where this is? I have the interior trunk out and can tell something is mounted to the underside of a metal piece but can't tell if that is the actuator or not. Any help??


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Indiepunk said:


> Also, this weekend my fuel flap got stuck open. I got a used actuator out of Jetta to see if that's what went. Does anyone have the Bentley diagram for where this is? I have the interior trunk out and can tell something is mounted to the underside of a metal piece but can't tell if that is the actuator or not. Any help??


http://www.jimellisaudiparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=753104&ukey_make=1081&ukey_model=15651&modelYear=2001&ukey_category=21735&ukey_driveLine=8046&ukey_trimLevel=19068


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## H_C (May 4, 2007)

lite1979 said:


> You should be able to code the new key once it's cut by using the old key at the same time. It's a one-in-the-door, one-in-the-ignition procedure, IIRC. Should be easy to find on here or on the mkIV forums. When I got my new key back in '09, I paid the dealer $170 for it, and encoding was part of the cost. Hopefully you can save $50 by doing it yourself.


I got the key cut and it works when I put it in the ignition. The car turns over and shuts off after a second, i'm guessing the immobilizer is being triggered. Ok, so I do the thing to program it.

1. Put in old key and turn over (not start car)
2. Put new key in door lock and turn clockwise to lock
3. Press lock button on new key (car lights flash)
4. Press lock again and it should be programmed... only its not

and the lights just flash again like the first time i press the button. And to make matters worse, my old key no longer works as a remove (still starts the car and the car stays on). I tried the same thing but switching the keys but this didn't "reprogram" my old key. I'm guessing because the new key isn't programmed. Anyone know what to do?


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

H_C said:


> I got the key cut and it works when I put it in the ignition. The car turns over and shuts off after a second, i'm guessing the immobilizer is being triggered. Ok, so I do the thing to program it.
> 
> 1. Put in old key and turn over (not start car)
> 2. Put new key in door lock and turn clockwise to lock
> ...


Which part broke on the old fob?


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## Silver TT (Jan 26, 2015)

H_C said:


> I got the key cut and it works when I put it in the ignition. The car turns over and shuts off after a second, i'm guessing the immobilizer is being triggered. Ok, so I do the thing to program it.
> 
> 1. Put in old key and turn over (not start car)
> 2. Put new key in door lock and turn clockwise to lock
> ...



This is to program the lower half of the key (the remote locks etc...). There is a different procedure to program a new transponder chip to the ECU (upper half of the key fob). Like Boulderhead said... do you have a new transponder chip? 

On another note.. I think my wiper motor is on it's way. The wipers are stalling mid wipe. Does anyone know where to cross reference a part number for the TT wiper motor to see if the same motor is in a different car?


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## erabbit777 (Jan 11, 2009)

Here's my stoopid question:

After disconcerting the batt for about 2 weeks the auto up/ down windows needed to be "programed". I got the passenger side working fine but the drivers side will not even roll all the way up with a single click of the switch. I have to tap it 3 times to get the window to roll all the way up. Do I need a new driver side regulator? The windows were down while the batt was disconnected. 

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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

erabbit777:

Roll the window all the way down, then hold for 3-5 seconds, then all the way up, then hold for 3-5 seconds. Once you do this all the way both ways, one-touch-up, one-touch-down, and window drop on open should work.


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

@ SilverTT:

Remove the plenum cover and disconnect the motor from the wiper transmission and try to:

1) move the wiper transmission by hand - if it's difficult, you probably have a lot of corrosion between the arm spindle and the housing. I've read about people working them loose again, but it's usually more effort than it's worth. New wiper transmission is about $35 US

2) turn on the wipers with the transmission disconnected; the motor should spin quickly and effortlessly. 

For what it's worth, a battery cable puller works great if you need a hand getting the wiper arms off the spindles.


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## erabbit777 (Jan 11, 2009)

lite1979 said:


> erabbit777:
> 
> Roll the window all the way down, then hold for 3-5 seconds, then all the way up, then hold for 3-5 seconds. Once you do this all the way both ways, one-touch-up, one-touch-down, and window drop on open should work.


That's how I got the passenger side to work. I'll try again and report....

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## erabbit777 (Jan 11, 2009)

erabbit777 said:


> That's how I got the passenger side to work. I'll try again and report....
> 
> Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk


So I tried again just to make sure and still not working, window rolls down if I hold it. But won't roll all the way with just one click. Ideas?

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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

Can you get it to roll up to the top with several clicks? Get it to the top, then press up again, and it should "re-learn" the upper limit.


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

@ Silver TT:

I think if it's a "virgin" key, you may be able to code it with VAG-COM, but reading this link will give you a more detailed explanation:

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Immobilizer


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## erabbit777 (Jan 11, 2009)

lite1979 said:


> Can you get it to roll up to the top with several clicks? Get it to the top, then press up again, and it should "re-learn" the upper limit.


That's what I've been doing. Takes 3 clicks to get there. Then I hold it up 3-5 secs. Roll it down hold it, then same thing 3 clicks to go up. 
Tomorrow I'm disconnecting the batt again. 

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## PolarTT (Jan 17, 2014)

*Euro Mirror - Staining along bottom edge*

Hi,

I have a set of Euro mirrors installed (approx 5 yrs old). I have noticed in the last year or so a staining along the bottom edge of the mirrors, similar to a coffee stain on a napkin.

Not sure if this is related to the continual heating of the mirrors or is another issue. Anyone have this problem or have ideas what may be causing this?

TIA

Peter


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

What you're describing is exactly what happened to every mkIV I've ever driven or seen here in Upstate NY with the blue-ish tints. My '99.5 Golf had a German VIN, and it had the same symptoms on the side view mirrors. For whatever reason, the OEM mirrors on my '01 TT have never suffered from this. Replacing the glass is the only cure, if I recall correctly.


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## tt92103 (Nov 23, 2010)

*Trailing arm bushing*

How many hours does it take to replace the trailing arm bushings? I went to a shop today and they said it would be an all day 8 hour job. Is that true?


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## tt92103 (Nov 23, 2010)

Are the TT rear upper and lower control arms the exact same part?


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

Tt92103: fwd TTs have a rear trailing arm supported by two huge bushings that are hard to get to without dropping the gas tank (so yeah, 8 hours sounds about right), whereas quattro TTs have upper and lower rear links that are much easier to work independently. They should be the same part, but the best replacements available are Mad Max's adjustable rear links, hands down.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

tt92103 said:


> How many hours does it take to replace the trailing arm bushings? I went to a shop today and they said it would be an all day 8 hour job. Is that true?


I don't agree with lite's explanation. The trailing arm on the TTQ's has the bushing/pivot point kind of sunken into the floor of the body, so not really accessible even if you unbolt the arm's bracket from the body and let the arm hang down. There's just not enough clearance to replace that bushing like that. That means the whole arm has to come off, which means removing the outer bolts to the two lateral links. the axle, the swaybar link, shock, and the brake line, caliper, and disc. And all these shops are just quoting All Data, so no point in arguing the time estimate. That said, people rarely replace that bushing, why has yours failed?


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

@ 20V Master: My bad; I was on my phone, and I didn't recall if he had a quattro or not. I figured maybe the garage assumed it was fwd and was thinking about the torsion beam being called a trailing arm, which I've seen multiple times in MKII, III, and IV discussions.

@TT92103: 20V Master is correct. You're not talking about the rear control arm bushings, are you? Since the quattro rear trailing arm bushing is rarely replaced, most of the results you find for a trailing arm bushing will be the huge ones that accompany the FWD model's torsion beam, which is not what you need for your AWD car.


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## burgher (Feb 5, 2009)

Hi, we have a 2002 TT 225 that keeps going through batteries.

When it is completely cold, I turn the key to 'accessory' (not starting the car) it makes this whirring noise under the hood. This noise continues for a long time, even after removing the key from the ignition completely. Again, the car hasn't been started. It also makes the same noise if I start the car and then turn it right off (not letting it heat up at all). I can try to pinpoint the noise if that's helpful.

Could this be the secondary air pump, or even the water pump? Thanks in advance for any advice/tips!


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

It's the Sai


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## burgher (Feb 5, 2009)

Converted2VW said:


> It's the Sai
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks- I don't think it's as loud as the air pump failures usually sound, though? Also, would the pump kick in if I haven't even started the car yet? This is more of an electrical motor kind of sound, not too loud of a whirring.


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## burgher (Feb 5, 2009)

Converted2VW said:


> It's the Sai
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Here's a video I just shot. The noise seems to be coming from near the alternator.

https://youtu.be/MKBfdqUNEJM


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## EuroSpic_TT (Apr 24, 2012)

Any thoughts on what could be causing an intermittent power steering loss? Happend at different speeds and even when not moving, the steering will stiffen and then release making it a bit dangerous to drive at times. Also you can almost hear pressure when turning the steering wheel when its stiff.


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

burgher said:


> Here's a video I just shot. The noise seems to be coming from near the alternator.
> 
> https://youtu.be/MKBfdqUNEJM


This is your after run pump and the auxiliary fan running. I have a spare cluster which has the same results (needs a rebuild) even when the car is ice cold.

So in my experience it's either the cluster or coolant temp sensor which is kicking the fan and after run pump on when it's not needed.


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

EuroSpic_TT said:


> Any thoughts on what could be causing an intermittent power steering loss? Happend at different speeds and even when not moving, the steering will stiffen and then release making it a bit dangerous to drive at times. Also you can almost hear pressure when turning the steering wheel when its stiff.


How's the tension on the accessory belt feel? If the belt is tight and bearing hasn't failed on PS pulley, the sounds like a hydraulic issue (low fluid or obstructed line).


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## burgher (Feb 5, 2009)

Boulderhead said:


> This is your after run pump and the auxiliary fan running. I have a spare cluster which has the same results (needs a rebuild) even when the car is ice cold.
> 
> So in my experience it's either the cluster or coolant temp sensor which is kicking the fan and after run pump on when it's not needed.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the input- I appreciate it. I guess we'll look into what's causing that to run...


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

@burgher: I'd be more concerned with the battery drain than the SAIP or the after-run coolant pump. Do a draw-down test with a multimeter to see if you can narrow down the drain to one fuse. Neither of those motors should drain your battery if they're running for the appropriate amounts of time.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## tt92103 (Nov 23, 2010)

lite1979 said:


> @ 20V Master: My bad; I was on my phone, and I didn't recall if he had a quattro or not. I figured maybe the garage assumed it was fwd and was thinking about the torsion beam being called a trailing arm, which I've seen multiple times in MKII, III, and IV discussions.
> 
> @TT92103: 20V Master is correct. You're not talking about the rear control arm bushings, are you? Since the quattro rear trailing arm bushing is rarely replaced, most of the results you find for a trailing arm bushing will be the huge ones that accompany the FWD model's torsion beam, which is not what you need for your AWD car.



I was having camber, caster and toe alignment problems after lowering the car with new springs last year. So I bought Madmax rear adjustable control arms, an SPC front strut mount camber caster kit, and new trailing arm bushings. I went to my suspension mechanic in Tijuana yesterday (same place that replaced my springs, struts and other stuff last year so he knows my car well) and he thought it would be all day to change the trailing arm bushings. I have no idea and I can't do it myself. 
So I cancelled the trailing arm bushings and just got the rear control arms and the front strut mount kit installed and got an alignment. All good so far. And only cost me $85 labor! And while the car was up they let me change my Haldex fluid.


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

Looks good!

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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Red's for racing!


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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

tt92103 said:


> I was having camber, caster and toe alignment problems after lowering the car with new springs last year. So I bought Madmax rear adjustable control arms, an SPC front strut mount camber caster kit, and new trailing arm bushings. I went to my suspension mechanic in Tijuana yesterday (same place that replaced my springs, struts and other stuff last year so he knows my car well) and he thought it would be all day to change the trailing arm bushings. I have no idea and I can't do it myself.
> So I cancelled the trailing arm bushings and just got the rear control arms and the front strut mount kit installed and got an alignment. All good so far. And only cost me $85 labor! And while the car was up they let me change my Haldex fluid.


It took me just over an hour to change both trailing arm bushings. It is an easy enough job and I can give you couple quick pointers to make it ultra easy. First off you have to disconnect the brake lines at the bottom of the mount, i used a vacuum cap to plug it off and didn't need but a few pumps to bleed the rear calipers. One of my lines was a little froze up but just regular map gas torch freed it up. Second tip, the bushing is extremely tough to get out, the rubber is flimsy and it is plastic on the outside so an air chisel just breaks up the plastic but will not press it out. I used a step drill bit from Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-3-4-quarter-inch-high-speed-steel-step-drill-44460.html to just get all the rubber out and then it punched out real easy. To press the new poly ones in I just jacked on the control arm until it pressed in and then reinstalled the center bolt and then put the control arm back in place. Keep an eye on the rear springs as you pull the arm down low enough for them to unseat so pay attention that everything is in place on the springs when jacking control arm back in. Heck, I did the whole job without even pulling the wheel off.


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## burgher (Feb 5, 2009)

lite1979 said:


> @burgher: I'd be more concerned with the battery drain than the SAIP or the after-run coolant pump. Do a draw-down test with a multimeter to see if you can narrow down the drain to one fuse. Neither of those motors should drain your battery if they're running for the appropriate amounts of time.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Looks like fuses 15 (instrument cluster stuff) and 42 (radio) caused about 0.6-0.7 amp draws combined. The split is about 0.10 amp for fuse 15 and 0.60 for fuse 42. I see that these are common issues with the TT, so I'll pull the radio and check the wiring, but I'm not too sure if I can do much about the instrument cluster---the gauges all seem to function as normal, but after pulling the fuse the central LED display is out and the local miles on the odo just say 'FUSE'.

Thanks again for the suggestion


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

Adding 440cc injectors to a 225 with out of the box Unitronic tune. Good or bad idea?
Any improvements?


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## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

Converted2VW said:


> Adding 440cc injectors to a 225 with out of the box Unitronic tune. Good or bad idea?
> Any improvements?


I would get the car retuned. not a good idea. 

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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Converted2VW said:


> Adding 440cc injectors to a 225 with out of the box Unitronic tune. Good or bad idea?
> Any improvements?


Adding larger injectors won't increase power. Why are you wanting to add them? For example, I run 630cc injectors on an AWP Unitronic tune on my 225, but I have scaled the MAF housing size relative to the injector size increase so I can use E85 for fuel.


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

20v master said:


> Adding larger injectors won't increase power. Why are you wanting to add them? For example, I run 630cc injectors on an AWP Unitronic tune on my 225, but I have scaled the MAF housing size relative to the injector size increase so I can use E85 for fuel.


Figured more power requires more fuel.


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## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

email VAG autowerks in Union NJ for custom tune , 
I don't see many 1.8t people doing custom tunes with open source. everyone's stuck in 2005 with ancient tunes with weird hardware trying to rig things up to make it play nice with the ecu 
sure you can do it yourself but if your not down for learning German or possibly blowing up your car , why not pay a pro a few bucks and have your car running optimal 

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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

racin2redline said:


> email VAG autowerks in Union NJ for custom tune ,
> I don't see many 1.8t people doing custom tunes with open source. everyone's stuck in 2005 with ancient tunes with weird hardware trying to rig things up to make it play nice with the ecu
> sure you can do it yourself but if your not down for learning German or possibly blowing up your car , why not pay a pro a few bucks and have your car running optimal
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


Could probably email Malone tuning to update their tune on my spare ECU. Worth a try since I already have it


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Converted2VW said:


> Figured more power requires more fuel.


So what have you done that increased airflow to the point of needing more fuel than 386cc OEM TT225 injectors can provide?


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## jsmith2015 (Mar 7, 2015)

20v master said:


> Adding larger injectors won't increase power. Why are you wanting to add them? For example, I run 630cc injectors on an AWP Unitronic tune on my 225, but I have scaled the MAF housing size relative to the injector size increase so I can use E85 for fuel.


Are you still running just the stock fuel pump.

I got some 630's laying around.

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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

jsmith2015 said:


> Are you still running just the stock fuel pump.
> 
> I got some 630's laying around.
> 
> Sent from my LGMS330 using Tapatalk


Yes, currently. My setup spikes to 25-27psi depending on weather and slowly tapers, with a small port SEM intake manifold.


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## jsmith2015 (Mar 7, 2015)

20v master said:


> Yes, currently. My setup spikes to 25-27psi depending on weather and slowly tapers, with a small port SEM intake manifold.


Hmm would love to know a little more about how you went about tweaking the uni tune.

Im running an awp ko3s stage2 to tune and was thinking about tweaking it in unisettings for e85 untill i can get a standalone

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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

jsmith2015 said:


> Hmm would love to know a little more about how you went about tweaking the uni tune.
> 
> Im running an awp ko3s stage2 to tune and was thinking about tweaking it in unisettings for e85 untill i can get a standalone
> 
> Sent from my LGMS330 using Tapatalk


Very easy to do as long as you have an OBD cable and can get Unisettings/Lemmiwinks to work. On my setup, I'm now running a 76mm ID MAF housing (4.2 V8 maybe) with the AWP sensor and 630cc injectors, with primary fuel channel set to -20% (based on the size increase of this MAF housing over the AWP housing and the injector size increase over AWP injectors). My fuel trims are currently settling out at -4%. I haven't had time to really fine tune things as I've been spending all my time getting an 01 225 Roadster ready to sell, but I just recently changed from the AMU MAF housing to the V8 housing. The AMU MAF housing works out to -25% in primary fueling (maximum adjustment range) and fuel trims were consistently ~-5%. There's a few other small tweaks that help with cold start and fueling transitions (part to WOT, etc), but it's pretty simple to do. When running E85 is where you might start finding the limits of the 630cc injectors, but more likely the OEM pump, depending on how much boost you run and other mods (the 80mm TIP and SEM manifold are helping me here). I'm only using an AWP Uni 1+ file, your stage 2 file may have the fueling curves a little better suited to this, but shouldn't make a huge difference either way.


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## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

I hope you guys have a wideband , again I'd highly recommend a custom tune, you are leaving a ton of power on the table. 
fooling the ecu with a larger maf for bigger injectors is less than ideal. 

not to mention you get features like launch control and no lift shift 

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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

I was just curious if it would make a difference. No changes have been made to MAF or anything else. I Just tun the Unitronic Stg2 tune, aftermarket Oem size tip, and 034 intake manifold. 


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

racin2redline said:


> I hope you guys have a wideband , again I'd highly recommend a custom tune, you are leaving a ton of power on the table.
> fooling the ecu with a larger maf for bigger injectors is less than ideal.
> 
> not to mention you get features like launch control and no lift shift
> ...


AFR is fine as I monitor it on the Torque app on my phone. I'm shooting for 600awhp in my stroked, PNP'ed AEB 35R setup for my other project TT, and this is on my daily driver. Missing 10-20hp isn't the end of the world, IF I'm leaving that much on the table. The scaled MAF housing leads to increased ignition timing as the ECU never sees the airflow rates of "high load" on the K03S AWP file. There are no driveability issues other than winter cold starts, and if you get in and drive instead of idling or putting around, it isn't noticeable. I can switch between pump gas and E85 profiles easily, and make way more power than stock. I'm not paying $700-$1K canned tune on a 15 year old car that is plenty fast enough to be fun as a daily driver, and there isn't and never has been an ME7.5 tuner near me. I don't have the time or patience to invest in Maestro or self tuning via nefmoto. This same setup has held up fine to HPDE's as well. Yes it may not be optimum, but for the price of the injectors, and the AWP ECU and MAF's I had from back in the day, it's something fun to play with. It doesn't have to be optimum to work and be fun.  I don't need no lift shift or launch control on a street car, and I have a WOT Box I could install if I wanted it. Those are $200, much cheaper than buying a tune just to get those features, and user adjustable. At the end of the day, there's more than one way to skin a cat.


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## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

remote tuning .. we are the talking like 300-350$ , they send you a base file to flash with nefmoto and a logging program. you send them logs they send you revisions. 

eurodyne is ancinet crap. I feel so bad for anyone including myself that bought into that.

all these canned soup tunes from any of the top company's are so outdated. so many advancements have been made in ME7 since then. 



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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

racin2redline said:


> remote tuning .. we are the talking like 300-350$ , they send you a base file to flash with nefmoto and a logging program. you send them logs they send you revisions.
> 
> eurodyne is ancinet crap. I feel so bad for anyone including myself that bought into that.
> 
> ...


Show me where I can get a custom remote tune for $350 out the door. Regardless, my car runs fine as is, as I've already explained that I don't need a custom tune. And even if I wanted one, the minimal gains wouldn't justify the cost even at $350.


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## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

20v master said:


> Show me where I can get a custom remote tune for $350 out the door. Regardless, my car runs fine as is, as I've already explained that I don't need a custom tune. And even if I wanted one, the minimal gains wouldn't justify the cost even at $350.


I already said email [email protected] in Union NJ or message them in Facebook. daz Dillinger worked directly with Mirza before his untimely passing. he was truly the master of ME7.

Aaron waltzer/stuklr tuning , can catch him on Facebook. his profile picture is a sprint blue allroad. he is very good 

Blake Beadle @ET spec is amazing. really nice knowledgeable guy , got my allroad dialed in perfectly. 

AMD If your around there Jason is highly regarded , does lots of work with high HP tial cars in the vag scene 

Jared at VLM spec in Lake Tahoe NV has one of the fastest 2.7T single turbo s4s in the country. he is very involved on multiple platforms , he does remote tuning as well 

I learned about most of this being involved in the 2.7T community. they are much more involved in open source tuning rather than waiting big tuning company to release box tunes for absurd amounts of money with no support for newer hardware like Bosch ev14 injectors and HPX mafs

Siemens deka are far from ideal for the multiport heads. the cone spray pattern doesnt evenly spray fuel into the 3 ports , plus they are early 2000s tech, the dead times and duty cycles they work with don't play well with ME7 

prices vary, I would ask each directly how much the charge but should be right around there depending 
but there is no reason with so many very good custom tuners out there that people should be playing with old uni files with lemmiwinks and unisettings (just being honest. I understand it works , trust me I've done it, but it's 2016  

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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

I'll make some inquiries and send some emails, but you keep missing the main point here. I'm not worried about eeking every last HP out of a 15 year old K04 when that money could go to a Fluidamper or wheels/tires or seats for my project TT. Playing with my daily is just that: playing. I honestly didn't know any of the options you had mentioned exist, so I'd say they aren't marketing themselves very well. Daz is the only name I've even heard of, and I'm not sure where you listed these or told me to email the first name you mentioned, but thanks.


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## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

I just listed them now hoping that anyone who sees this can become more informed that things like that exist for this platform  

if I didn't get into 2.7T stuff a few years ago I probably wouldn't know about this stuff either, I had my TT and a 1.8T way before and previously thought eurodune or stand alone was the only highest end options 

hey don't limit yourself to stock hardware with custom tunes either. any of those dudes would be thrilled to tune a crazy big turbo setup with any type of hardware. 

I used to mess with daz telling him I'm going to have him tune my lawn mower. he told me if it has a obd2 port he's in

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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

racin2redline said:


> hey don't limit yourself to stock hardware with custom tunes either. any of those dudes would be thrilled to tune a crazy big turbo setup with any type of hardware.


I'm aware, but I also have my old custom Uni tuned 1200cc ECU for my 10:1 2008cc AEB 80mm throttle GT35R E85 setup that I'm going to use at first on my project. :laugh: The only changes I've made from that hardware setup will be a CNC'ed AEB that I picked up that has Cat 3658 cams in it. If adding a MAF to that ECU doesn't make the head/cams play nicely, then I'll either go the route of one of the tuners you listed or jump to AEM Infinity. I've sent a few emails out and told them if the tuning works on my daily, I'd be interested in the same for the project car. The point remains: I'm not paying for some fixed can tune for either of my setups, and want support and ability to change things later on down the road. Thanks again. :beer:


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

As an observer / reader of this thread, I'm glad and amazed to see the other possibilities for tuning out there. This encourages me to keep pushing forward and get into this tuning deal at some point


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## jsmith2015 (Mar 7, 2015)

20v master said:


> Very easy to do as long as you have an OBD cable and can get Unisettings/Lemmiwinks to work. On my setup, I'm now running a 76mm ID MAF housing (4.2 V8 maybe) with the AWP sensor and 630cc injectors, with primary fuel channel set to -20% (based on the size increase of this MAF housing over the AWP housing and the injector size increase over AWP injectors). My fuel trims are currently settling out at -4%. I haven't had time to really fine tune things as I've been spending all my time getting an 01 225 Roadster ready to sell, but I just recently changed from the AMU MAF housing to the V8 housing. The AMU MAF housing works out to -25% in primary fueling (maximum adjustment range) and fuel trims were consistently ~-5%. There's a few other small tweaks that help with cold start and fueling transitions (part to WOT, etc), but it's pretty simple to do. When running E85 is where you might start finding the limits of the 630cc injectors, but more likely the OEM pump, depending on how much boost you run and other mods (the 80mm TIP and SEM manifold are helping me here). I'm only using an AWP Uni 1+ file, your stage 2 file may have the fueling curves a little better suited to this, but shouldn't make a huge difference either way.


Did you adjust the boost settings somehow in uni settings or are you running an ebc ?

Im only peaking at 22 and its tapers pretty quickly at high rpm's

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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

jsmith2015 said:


> Did you adjust the boost settings somehow in uni settings or are you running an ebc ?
> 
> Im only peaking at 22 and its tapers pretty quickly at high rpm's
> 
> Sent from my LGMS330 using Tapatalk



Yes, running EBC.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

racin2redline said:


> I already said email [email protected] in Union NJ or message them in Facebook. daz Dillinger worked directly with Mirza before his untimely passing. he was truly the master of ME7.
> 
> Aaron waltzer/stuklr tuning , can catch him on Facebook. his profile picture is a sprint blue allroad. he is very good
> 
> ...


I"m not anywhere near AMD, but I emailed all the rest except for Aaron/Stuklr (couldn't find him on FB or the Googles), and haven't gotten a response from any of them. And this is why remote tuning doesn't work........


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## jsmith2015 (Mar 7, 2015)

20v master said:


> I"m not anywhere near AMD, but I emailed all the rest except for Aaron/Stuklr (couldn't find him on FB or the Googles), and haven't gotten a response from any of them. And this is why remote tuning doesn't work........


Remote turners are great, until they stop returning emails lol.

Going threw the same thing right now.

Sick of teaching myself me7 if i have to deal with one more map named

Bkrz5whatthefckk7 im going to lose it.

Decided just to go aem at least if i learn aem its a more universal skill

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## jsmith2015 (Mar 7, 2015)

With have the rear o2 sensor completely disconected affect performance if it is coded out in the tune ?

I have no cel, but i have read some conflicting opinion's about it keepinf the car in open loop.

Thank you

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## jsmith2015 (Mar 7, 2015)

jsmith2015 said:


> With have the rear o2 sensor completely disconected affect performance if it is coded out in the tune ?
> 
> I have no cel, but i have read some conflicting opinion's about it keepinf the car in open loop.
> 
> ...


Bump anyone ?

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## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

jsmith2015 said:


> With have the rear o2 sensor completely disconected affect performance if it is coded out in the tune ?
> 
> I have no cel, but i have read some conflicting opinion's about it keepinf the car in open loop.
> 
> ...





jsmith2015 said:


> Bump anyone ?
> 
> Sent from my LGMS330 using Tapatalk


mine is completely disconnected I haven't had an issue at all

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## punchbug (Jul 15, 2000)

Two dumb ones...looking at a 2013. Is there an input jack for audio (Sirius/iDevice etc.) and is there a hatch release button other than the key? That's it for now. (Didn't see either on the test drive)


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

punchbug said:


> Two dumb ones...looking at a 2013. Is there an input jack for audio (Sirius/iDevice etc.) and is there a hatch release button other than the key? That's it for now. (Didn't see either on the test drive)


Wrong forum, 2013 is a Mk2 TT.


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## punchbug (Jul 15, 2000)

20v master said:


> Wrong forum, 2013 is a Mk2 TT.


Typo, meant 2003. Great, first post and I get "wrong forum", LOL


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## jsmith2015 (Mar 7, 2015)

punchbug said:


> Two dumb ones...looking at a 2013. Is there an input jack for audio (Sirius/iDevice etc.) and is there a hatch release button other than the key? That's it for now. (Didn't see either on the test drive)


No aux imput 

Manual hatch realese is under the center consul 

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## punchbug (Jul 15, 2000)

[HR][/HR]


jsmith2015 said:


> No aux imput
> 
> Manual hatch realese is under the center consul
> 
> Sent from my LGMS330 using Tapatalk


Thanks! There will be many stupid questions to follow no doubt. 

For example: No aux input is not good....is there a wiring work around from later models?


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## jsmith2015 (Mar 7, 2015)

punchbug said:


> [HR][/HR]
> 
> Thanks! There will be many stupid questions to follow no doubt.
> 
> For example: No aux input is not good....is there a wiring work around from later models?


There is wiring kits and adapters and such to add aux and i believe blue tooth also. 

I replaced the factory deck amp and door speakers.

It was worth it

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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

The OEM radio has (had?) iPod adapters available, but you'll need to wire it yourself, it was my first mod but didn't take long. The main downside is that it replaces the OEM disc changer and acts like that, so you don't get track info on the HU. I tried to select songs from the iPod for awhile but gave up and just put it on random.


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## punchbug (Jul 15, 2000)

l88m22vette said:


> The OEM radio has (had?) iPod adapters available, but you'll need to wire it yourself, it was my first mod but didn't take long. The main downside is that it replaces the OEM disc changer and acts like that, so you don't get track info on the HU. I tried to select songs from the iPod for awhile but gave up and just put it on random.



So I am back; the car is in my driveway now. These iPod adapters are available from what source? I'd be using it for Sirius so track info is a non issue.

And a few more. I have a rear shelf that is missing some parts I think. Can somebody send a picture of how it is supposed to be attached? (Its function would be to conceal the hatch contents)

There are two openings on the passenger side of the centre raised portion between the front seats where the EBrake sits at rest. There should be something there, but it is absent. What is supposed to be there? Looks like two spots that would fit pins about 1/4" diameter. 

I am in a small town where even VWs are relatively uncommon, so comparing to another car is not an option. Thanks for your help with these minor cosmetic questions.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

punchbug said:


> So I am back; the car is in my driveway now. These iPod adapters are available from what source? I'd be using it for Sirius so track info is a non issue.
> 
> And a few more. I have a rear shelf that is missing some parts I think. Can somebody send a picture of how it is supposed to be attached? (Its function would be to conceal the hatch contents)
> 
> ...


I have one that I'm not using, it's for the Concert head units. Shoot me a PM to discuss. There are two ball "posts" that screw into the hatch trim. The parcel shelf should have two "arms" that pop onto these posts. 

The opening there was for the OEM cell phone option. Sounds like yours has been removed.


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## punchbug (Jul 15, 2000)

20v master said:


> I have one that I'm not using, it's for the Concert head units. Shoot me a PM to discuss. There are two ball "posts" that screw into the hatch trim. The parcel shelf should have two "arms" that pop onto these posts.
> 
> The opening there was for the OEM cell phone option. Sounds like yours has been removed.


Yep, I would say the cell phone thing is absent. I will look for that in the manual. And I am also missing the "arms" on the hat shelf. Not a huge deal, I don't own anything valuable enough to steal (except the TT, LOL) Pm will be sent.


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## Sniper911 (May 30, 2015)

Ok I have a official stupid question for those of you with much more knowledge and experience than I....

Is the 6 speed manual trans and shifter a direct bolt on replacement for the 5 speed manual trans? I'm about to do my clutch and if the trans is interchangeable I may search for a 6 speed and do the swap at the same time. 


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

The answer is that it depends. If you're replacing a 5-speed quattro transmission, then a six-speed quattro transmission will swap in no problem. If you're replacing a five speed fwd transmission, then you'll need the appropriate flywheel, pressure plate and clutch to swap in a fwd 6-speed tranny (which would probably be out of a GTI or GLI).

The cables changed through the years, too, so there are socket style connectors as well as pin-style connectors. They have to match the transmission you're putting in the car.

Also, your six-speed must be from a four-cylinder. The bell housing from a sixer won't fit.


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## Sniper911 (May 30, 2015)

Excellent - thank you !

And it's currently a 5 speed fwd trans 


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## quadracer9 (Mar 7, 2016)

How many psi does the hpfp put out on an mk6 tdi?

2013 VW Jetta TDI 2.5" turbo back, stage 2 tune, DPF & EGR delete, AFE cold air intake
2007 mk5 VW Rabbit


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## teanza (Apr 20, 2008)

Why does the '01 180q (5-spd) have the *worst* engine braking (meaning .. ~zero) ever?! :thumbdown:


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## tt92103 (Nov 23, 2010)

I have a very annoying rattling sound coming from the rear passenger side of the car when i go over uneven pavement, its been there for a few months. Lucky for me, I got rear ended on the passenger side last month so I thought "great, when they replace my bumper i'll get them to find and fix the rattling sound." Body shop never found the rattling sound and they said it was something in the suspension. So I took it to my suspension shop and they can't find the problem but their best guess is its inside the strut. I already replaced my rear struts (and springs) last year in May of 2015 and it still seems to ride fine. So now I'm looking at replacing my rear struts just to see if it will fix a rattling sound. Is there something inside a strut that could make a rattling noise? My rear struts are from Blauparts and are $110 to replace. Any advice what the noise could be??


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

Is it a coupe? If so, I'd check the rear hatch and struts...

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## tt92103 (Nov 23, 2010)

lite1979 said:


> Is it a coupe? If so, I'd check the rear hatch and struts...
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Its a coupe, already changed the hatch struts not long ago and the rattling sound is coming from the rear passenger side wheel area...


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

Have you had a look at the gas inlet? It might be worth your while to take the inner fender liner off of that wheel well and check your EVAP setup. I'm pretty sure I had a ground wire come loose in that part of the car last year.

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## Sniper911 (May 30, 2015)

I had a rattle like that coming from my right front wheel - it bugged the hell out of me for 2 months before I took a Sunday and vowed to tear the entire front end apart until I found it. I thought for sure it was the strut ....

It turned out to be the brake pad. The outer plate on it broke loose and would rattle around in the caliper until you hit the brakes. Sounds far fetched but it's true and worth a shot to check 


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## YayItsBlake (Apr 11, 2016)

Sniper911 said:


> I had a rattle like that coming from my right front wheel - it bugged the hell out of me for 2 months before I took a Sunday and vowed to tear the entire front end apart until I found it. I thought for sure it was the strut ....
> 
> It turned out to be the brake pad. The outer plate on it broke loose and would rattle around in the caliper until you hit the brakes. Sounds far fetched but it's true and worth a shot to check
> 
> ...


Not saying you had them, but cheap pads are notorious for this. I actually have the same thing in my miatas front left right now, im just too lazy to deal with it. Took a while of chasing brake noises at the shop I worked at to realize this was a thing. 

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## Sniper911 (May 30, 2015)

YayItsBlake said:


> Not saying you had them, but cheap pads are notorious for this. I actually have the same thing in my miatas front left right now, im just too lazy to deal with it. Took a while of chasing brake noises at the shop I worked at to realize this was a thing.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk


Oh they were definitely cheap brake pads. The previous owner put them on. Once I found the issue I upgraded them. Just goes to show you that the annoying rattle sound could be coming from the most odd place


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## 224rebels (Dec 21, 2015)

*converting to e85*

We all know e85 is a pretty corrosive fuel. My question is, when converting to e85 which fueling components will need changed to accommodate?


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

224rebels said:


> We all know e85 is a pretty corrosive fuel. My question is, when converting to e85 which fueling components will need changed to accommodate?


At least have to do the fuel lines from the hard plastic ones to the rail.


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## Audib0t (Sep 4, 2010)

20v master said:


> I"m not anywhere near AMD, but I emailed all the rest except for Aaron/Stuklr (couldn't find him on FB or the Googles), and haven't gotten a response from any of them. And this is why remote tuning doesn't work........


That's because he name was spelled wrong: it's Aaron Walizer. He'll be tuning my allroad in a couple weeks. PM him on Facebook.


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## tucsonTT (Sep 11, 2016)

speaking of fuel....has anyone noticed a difference between brands for 91 octane? Shell vs. Exxon vs Chevron vs Costco vs grocery store fuel?

Any preference?


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## mdjenkins (Feb 16, 2010)

The issue where the Air Bag light comes on when the temperature drops in early mk1 was caused by faulty controller or clock spring or what?


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## asiwa (Dec 18, 2014)

mdjenkins said:


> The issue where the Air Bag light comes on when the temperature drops in early mk1 was caused by faulty controller or clock spring or what?


Faulty airbag controller. The revised part can be bought for about $600-700 from Jim Ellis Audi.


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

Asiwa is right, but you can also find the right part on eBay and install that instead. I believe 20vMaster can explain more.

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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

lite1979 said:


> Asiwa is right, but you can also find the right part on eBay and install that instead. I believe 20vMaster can explain more.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Take old controller out, order same part number from Ebay, pray it's a good working controller.


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## YayItsBlake (Apr 11, 2016)

20v master said:


> Take old controller out, order same part number from Ebay, pray it's a good working controller.


Engineering school, y'all.  

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## mdjenkins (Feb 16, 2010)

20v master said:


> Take old controller out, order same part number from Ebay, pray it's a good working controller.


Is there a special prayer?
A specific deity?
How many chickens should I sacrifice?
Would a ritual beer ceremony suffice?


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

I'm pretty sure we have to pray to MC Hammer

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## jsmith2015 (Mar 7, 2015)

mdjenkins said:


> Is there a special prayer?
> A specific deity?
> How many chickens should I sacrifice?
> Would a ritual beer ceremony suffice?


Audi actually just forgot to add the pressure relief hole on the new models. Just remove it and drill a 1/8th inch hole in the case where is it was on the older model.

Sent from my LGMS330 using Tapatalk


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## mdjenkins (Feb 16, 2010)

jsmith2015 said:


> Audi actually just forgot to add the pressure relief hole on the new models. Just remove it and drill a 1/8th inch hole in the case where is it was on the older model.
> 
> Sent from my LGMS330 using Tapatalk


trepanation?
I could get behind that.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

mdjenkins said:


> Is there a special prayer?
> A specific deity?
> How many chickens should I sacrifice?
> Would a ritual beer ceremony suffice?


No, yes, the Gods of Audi, no chickens, and yes, if the beer is of sufficient quality. 





jsmith2015 said:


> Audi actually just forgot to add the pressure relief hole on the new models. Just remove it and drill a 1/8th inch hole in the case where is it was on the older model.


That won't help if the used controller is already bad.


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## 224rebels (Dec 21, 2015)

*Limited Slip*

I've got a 2003 Quattro 225. It's always been my understanding that it has limited slip front and rear but recently I read something that made me question this. My question is, do TT's come factory with limited slip? Mine specifically of course but a break downs of which ones do/don't would be good information.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Nope, open diff front and rear (there are aftermarket LSDs though)


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## 224rebels (Dec 21, 2015)

l88m22vette said:


> Nope, open diff front and rear (there are aftermarket LSDs though)


It was my discovery of the aftermarket LSD's that made me question it. Thanks!


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## mdjenkins (Feb 16, 2010)

If you were going to buy new horns to help troubleshoot why your horns aren't working, what horns would you buy?

Assume you'll be using them even if they aren't the issue.


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## jsmith2015 (Mar 7, 2015)

mdjenkins said:


> If you were going to buy new horns to help troubleshoot why your horns aren't working, what horns would you buy?
> 
> Assume you'll be using them even if they aren't the issue.


I would use a volt meter and i would replace them with hella's

Sent from my LGMS330 using Tapatalk


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## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

jsmith2015 said:


> I would use a volt meter and i would replace them with hella's
> 
> Sent from my LGMS330 using Tapatalk


Replaced mine with Hellas. Love them.


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

I have to get myself some new hellas so I can honk at the idiots who run the stop sign near my house #turningintoanoldman


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## 224rebels (Dec 21, 2015)

mdjenkins said:


> If you were going to buy new horns to help troubleshoot why your horns aren't working, what horns would you buy?
> 
> Assume you'll be using them even if they aren't the issue.


I also run Hella's. Must recommend!!


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## 224rebels (Dec 21, 2015)

Well heres a stupid question for you. Is the fluid in the transfer case (Quattro) separate from the transmission or do they share fluid?


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## jsmith2015 (Mar 7, 2015)

Has anyone got a set of 15 inch wheels to fit on a 180q.

Really want some all terrain tires for my tt project and only rubber that will fit would be a 15

Sent from my LGMS330 using Tapatalk


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

224rebels said:


> Well heres a stupid question for you. Is the fluid in the transfer case (Quattro) separate from the transmission or do they share fluid?



Technically, we don't have a transfer case. Angle drive/bevel box shares fluid with the trans (you're supposed to drain from both to change fluid). Trans, Haldex, and rear diff all have their own fluid. 



jsmith2015 said:


> Has anyone got a set of 15 inch wheels to fit on a 180q.
> 
> Really want some all terrain tires for my tt project and only rubber that will fit would be a 15


15's won't clear front brakes unless you go down to Mk4 GTI 11.3"/288mm fronts.


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## tt92103 (Nov 23, 2010)

I have an official stupid question: Do TT headlights lose brightness over time?
Do I need to change the bulbs periodically? Mine are 15 years old.
I see a lot of threads about headlight upgrades and talk of halogen and xenon headlights. What's the difference?


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## C-Mann (Aug 31, 2005)

Are the TT 3.2l dual piston calipers & rotors a direct bolt on for the 225 TT's ?


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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

I think you need at least the carriers to go with that, maybe the spindles but I think just the caliper carrier from a 3.2 tt or a R32 Golf.


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## C-Mann (Aug 31, 2005)

Yeah, I meant with the carriers. I'll try and cross reference the 3.2l & 225 spindle part numbers to see if there the same. 
I have an opportunity to get either the boxter calipers or the 3.2l calipers for around the same price and it seems I'd get better braking performance out of the 3.2l set up. I recently spoke to a performance brake shop that told me that overall I wouldn't get that much better braking performance by running the boxter set up due to it having a smaller brake pad. A few reviews I've read on people who switched to the boxter caliper seem to suggest this also.


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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

You also get a bigger rotor which is worth a lot with the 3.2 set up. Bigger diameter and wider with larger cooling fins, all good things.


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## C-Mann (Aug 31, 2005)

Yeah, that's why I'm considering it over the boxter set up. I checked the part numbers for the hubs and spindles/knuckles and they are the same so the 3.2l TT calipers & rotors should be a direct bolt up on the 225 TT. The front brake lines are different so the 3.2l lines will have to be used with swap.


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## 224rebels (Dec 21, 2015)

Installed a afr gauge in my tt. Question is why does the mixture richen out from 14.6/7 to ~ 10.0 under WOT over ~6,000rpm. It sits nicely around 14.7 until 6,000 until it drastically richens.


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## Silver TT (Jan 26, 2015)

tt92103 said:


> I have an official stupid question: Do TT headlights lose brightness over time?
> Do I need to change the bulbs periodically? Mine are 15 years old.
> I see a lot of threads about headlight upgrades and talk of halogen and xenon headlights. What's the difference?


I was on a trip through the mountains at night last week and I couldn't see very well. Cars that were behind me had their lights shining further that mine! I thought I better change my headlights and that fixed my problems. Before I replaced both sides I replaced one low beam xenon and left the other just so I could compare, and the new one was way brighter. Bulbs are not cheap for this car though! $100 CAD per side for the low beams and $25 per side for the high beams. Worth it though.

My low beams are xenon (HID - High Intensity Discharge) and the high beams are halogens. Some TT's have halogens for both, if there's a dial on the left by the knob for the headlights that can adjust the pitch of the lights then you have halogens (so I've read). The xenons have some kind of transducer attached to the front control arms to automatically adjust. I believe the xenons shine white and halogens are more yellow in color.



224rebels said:


> Installed a afr gauge in my tt. Question is why does the mixture richen out from 14.6/7 to ~ 10.0 under WOT over ~6,000rpm. It sits nicely around 14.7 until 6,000 until it drastically richens.


I think that's normal. Depending on conditions, the ECU richens the mixture because the extra gas evaporates and absorbs heat to keep the engine from knocking. Same principle as water methanol injection.


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## WiKKiDTT (Aug 13, 2009)

224rebels said:


> Installed a afr gauge in my tt. Question is why does the mixture richen out from 14.6/7 to ~ 10.0 under WOT over ~6,000rpm. It sits nicely around 14.7 until 6,000 until it drastically richens.


14.7 is perfect for cruising when not in boost. As soon as you get into the boost it should start to taper down meaning it's richening up. To make power you need fuel and to keep from detonation. 10 seems a little to rich though as typically they run down to 12.8-12.5. Did you calibrate the sensor before you started the car?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## C-Mann (Aug 31, 2005)

Does anyone know the part number for the mfa lcd screen and a good place to buy one? I need to replace mine and I'm not sure if the ones I saw on ebay are the right ones or if there any good,


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

C-Mann said:


> Does anyone know the part number for the mfa lcd screen and a good place to buy one? I need to replace mine and I'm not sure if the ones I saw on ebay are the right ones or if there any good,


I bought mine on eBay. Screen seemed to be good quality.. however I would advise this is a job better left to the pros. It's how I ended up with 3 clusters in total from one car 


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## 224rebels (Dec 21, 2015)

Silver TT said:


> I think that's normal. Depending on conditions, the ECU richens the mixture because the extra gas evaporates and absorbs heat to keep the engine from knocking. Same principle as water methanol injection.


To prevent knocking/detonation was my best guess as well.



WiKKiDTT said:


> 14.7 is perfect for cruising when not in boost. As soon as you get into the boost it should start to taper down meaning it's richening up. To make power you need fuel and to keep from detonation. 10 seems a little to rich though as typically they run down to 12.8-12.5. Did you calibrate the sensor before you started the car?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


yes the guage is properly calibrated. 10 was an estimation it may only richen up to 12.5 like you said.


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## tt92103 (Nov 23, 2010)

Boulderhead said:


> I bought mine on eBay. Screen seemed to be good quality.. however I would advise this is a job better left to the pros. It's how I ended up with 3 clusters in total from one car


I ordered a dashpod LCD from Ebay last week for $21.38. It is shipping from China and will arrive in 3-8 weeks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252688125526


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## C-Mann (Aug 31, 2005)

tt92103 said:


> I ordered a dashpod LCD from Ebay last week for $21.38. It is shipping from China and will arrive in 3-8 weeks.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/252688125526


I found a few on ebay for under $40 that are here in the states and ordered one today.


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## C-Mann (Aug 31, 2005)

I'm in the process of installing the Osir Mantis gauge pod that goes in place of the ashtray and would like to know if anyone here has installed one and if and how did they relocate the cigarette lighter?


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## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

Should I avoid a higher mileage 225? 

There is a 2002 225 for sale in my area with around 160K miles. 

He says the head was rebuilt by the previous owner and the timing belt and water pump were replaced too at the time. The clutch could be original and he wants $4500.


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## hunTTsvegas (Aug 27, 2012)

Giovanni said:


> Should I avoid a higher mileage 225?
> 
> There is a 2002 225 for sale in my area with around 160K miles.
> 
> He says the head was rebuilt by the previous owner and the timing belt and water pump were replaced too at the time. The clutch could be original and he wants $4500.


If you're uncomfortable with your mechanical skills (i.e. working on a vehicle yourself) then maybe. Not a terrible price but I paid that for an 01 225Q Roadster with 100k miles around 4 years ago. I now know that it was too good to be true as there hadn't been anything other than an oil service completed on the car, but I was intending on rebuilding it anyway. Best of luck with your decision.


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## hunTTsvegas (Aug 27, 2012)

C-Mann said:


> I'm in the process of installing the Osir Mantis gauge pod that goes in place of the ashtray and would like to know if anyone here has installed one and if and how did they relocate the cigarette lighter?


I would say that most don't/didn't relocate the lighter. I ended up using the light from the ash tray to power the backlight in my vent boost guage and the 12v to add a USB plug in the center console trim.


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## C-Mann (Aug 31, 2005)

Yeah I was thinking of adding maybe 2 usb's but I still wanted to keep the lighter to power other things like an air compressor when needed and also adding footwell lights. I also just installed the OSIR Orbit v3ex led weighted shifter and it came with a power adapter that hooks between the lighter harness for power and also has extra power adapters that I can use to power other accessories. I may mount the lighter in the flat panel behind the ashtray and storage compartment location. 
I remember seeing a few companies that made usb's for vw and audi at car shows. Did you use one of those?


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## 224rebels (Dec 21, 2015)

why are there so many 20001/02's and so few 2003+'s?? always wondered this.


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

Look at the production numbers.

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## 224rebels (Dec 21, 2015)

lite1979 said:


> Look at the production numbers.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Were you replying to me? Not sure what you meant?


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## hunTTsvegas (Aug 27, 2012)

224rebels said:


> Were you replying to me? Not sure what you meant?


Pretty sure he meant to look at the amount of vehicles produced in those year ranges and you'll see that the bulk was probably produced around 2001. 

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk


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## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

nevermind


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## C-Mann (Aug 31, 2005)

One of my coilpacks (bolt down type) went out on my 2002 AMU 225hp TT. Are the 2.0t fsi coilpacks a good upgrade/replacement for the bolt down type? I didn't see it as an option on ECS for my car. Are the bolt down type stronger than the fsi coilpacks?


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## 224rebels (Dec 21, 2015)

C-Mann said:


> One of my coilpacks (bolt down type) went out on my 2002 AMU 225hp TT. Are the 2.0t fsi coilpacks a good upgrade/replacement for the bolt down type? I didn't see it as an option on ECS for my car. Are the bolt down type stronger than the fsi coilpacks?


2.0t coil packs are a nice upgrade for all vw/audi 1.8t engines. You'll just need coil pack spacers to go with them. I went with ecs tunings version but there are numerous options out there.


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## C-Mann (Aug 31, 2005)

I saw that some companies sale the R8 coilpacks over the 2.0T coilpacks as an upgrade. Are the R8's better?


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## jsmith2015 (Mar 7, 2015)

C-Mann said:


> I saw that some companies sale the R8 coilpacks over the 2.0T coilpacks as an upgrade. Are the R8's better?


None of them are really better than the updated oem. This has been beaten to death with testing and all in a thread floating around here.

That being said i have oem r8 coils and an ecs spacer on my car.

The real advantage is the are red and yoy can say you have r8 coils

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## C-Mann (Aug 31, 2005)

I did a little more research and HStuning tested them and there results show that there the R8 coils have a higher resistance than the 2.0t coils which supposedly means they produce more spark. Also I remember that you can gap the spark plugs more with either of these coils to get more spark also on the 1st generation 1.8t's. 
Anyway it turns out the coil harness wasn't fully seated LOL. I had done some work on my car late in the day and must've pushed it off and couldn't see it because it was dark. I'll probably upgrade to the R8 coils and run a wider gap on the plugs later down the line.


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## 224rebels (Dec 21, 2015)

would it be a direct replacement to swap a 5spd Quattro trans into my 6spd Quattro car?


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## PolarTT (Jan 17, 2014)

*Quirky clutch/transmission*

Hi everyone,

I have been having some problems with my clutch/transmission lately. (FYI 2006 quattro, 153K daily driven, Audi maintained)

1) I have been experiencing trouble shifting out of reverse into 1st (after coming to a complete stop). 

2) Having problems shifting from 1st to 2nd and sometimes 3rd - very tough moving through the gears. More pronounced problems on colder mornings so it may be viscosity issues?

3) Also, experiencing problems in stop and go traffic. I am in 1st and nudge ahead, push down the clutch completely and take it out of gear, but clutch still feels engaged and it lurches fwd. Other times I have a hard time getting shifter from 1st to 2nd - have to really yank hard to get it to disengage.

Any thoughts on this - clutch?, transmission? both?

Thanks

PolarPeter


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Try a shifter alignment first, there are some DIYs on eBay and a procedure in the Bentley manual


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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

Definitely clutch related. Sounds like the slave cylinder going bad. Unfortunately it requires transmission removal to get to it. Try topping off the fluid and see if it bleeds itself a little


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