# Retrofitting Dual Xenon Headlamps [TOC] [Photos re-hosted x4]



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

I have always wanted to have the dual xenon headlamps on my Phaeton, not really for any functional advantage that they offer, but simply because of the looks. The front headlight is a key element in the visual design of the Phaeton, and I don’t think that the single xenon headlight (with the halogen high beam) that we get here in North America looks as good as the original dual xenon design.

I finally got around to retrofitting dual xenon headlamps this week. The removal and installation of the headlamps is fairly simple, but sourcing the parts took forever. I didn’t want to buy two complete and fully built up dual xenon headlamps – the cost would have been about $1,500 per side – so, I rather slowly assembled all the parts I needed by scouring European salvage yards. This was a bit of a nuisance, and took a fair amount of time.

If you want to accomplish this modification, you will need the ‘basic’ headlamp assembly for each side of the car. The basic assembly includes the lenses and alignment motors, but does not include the bulbs or the controllers. The existing NAR spec low beam xenon controller (and bulb) can be re-used in the ROW spec dual xenon assemblies. A high beam controller costs about 300 Euro, and a xenon bulb costs about 100 Euro. The xenon bulbs are identical for all four positions, but there is a difference between the low beam and high beam controllers – they are not interchangeable.

A very small (and quite simple) modification to the wiring harness is needed, due to the provision of a third connector on the dual xenon headlamp assembly to power the city light (parking light). The parts cost for this modification is minimal, about $20 total. The lights will work without the wiring modification, but the city light won’t work, and you will get a ‘burned out light’ warning on the display in the instrument cluster.

Before considering this modification, you should check to see if the European beam pattern is accepted in the state you live in. Canada accepts the European beam pattern, and some manufacturers ship vehicles to Canada with European spec headlights in them. Not all American states will accept the European beam pattern, and this could cause problems down the road when it comes to safety checks or selling the vehicle.

Having said all that, here’s the instructions for doing the retrofit.

You will need a left and right hand side dual xenon headlight assembly. The current part number for this assembly is 3D1 941 017 (for the left side of the car) and 3D1 941 018 for the right side of the car. This presumes cars that are driven on the right side of the road, as in North America. If you want to retrofit dual xenon headlamps to a Phaeton that will be driven on the left side of the road, for example, in the UK or Singapore, the headlight assembly part numbers are different. There are other part numbers for the same assembly, such as 3D1 941 015 / 016. I’m not really sure what the difference is between the 15/16 assemblies and the 17/18 assemblies.

You will also need an additional xenon bulb for the high beam position and a high beam controller for each assembly, as well as a cable for the high beam controller. As mentioned earlier, the bulb is the same for both low and high beam. The high beam controller is part number 3D0 909 391, and the cable (which is NOT included with the controller) is 3D0 971 671. The low beam controller and cable is the same on both the NAR and ROW assemblies, so just salvage the low beam controller (PN 3D0 909 157) and cable from your NAR assembly. More detailed information about the different parts involved can be found on page 941-21 of the Phaeton parts catalog.

*Headlamp assemblies are normally sold without controllers*








https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit1.jpg

*Details of controllers*








https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit2.jpg

The headlight assemblies themselves are quite large, and the special purpose box that they ship in is about three feet long, one foot high, and one foot wide. So, you can anticipate some fairly hefty charges for ‘cubic weight’ if you are shipping these things from Europe to North America by air.

Before you start the installation process, purchase two small connectors PN 1J0 973 702 and two VW repair wires to fit those connectors, along with four heat shrink crimp connectors. These parts are very common (note the Golf part number) – my local VW dealer actually had them in stock and did not need to special order them. You will use these connectors to hook up the city light (parking light) on the dual xenon headlamp assemblies. You will also need a special crimping tool, and a heat gun.

*Connector for City Lights*








https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit3.jpg

To remove the existing headlights and install the new ones, you have to remove the front bumper cover and do a fair amount of fooling around at the front of the Phaeton. So, it’s best to find some kind of platform that you can put your Phaeton on that allows you to lift it up to a comfortable working height. Personally, I prefer using a Hunter VAG 1944B alignment platform for this purpose. You can find one of these at your local VW dealer.

Drive the car onto the alignment platform, put a chock on either side of one of the rear wheels, then raise the Phaeton to a comfortable working height. Make sure you put the two front wheels on the rotating turntables, because you will need to turn the wheels later on to get access to screws and bolts in the front fender.

*Phaeton on Alignment Platform*








https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit4.jpg









https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit4b.jpg

The next task is to remove the front bumper cover. This process is fairly well described in the VW Phaeton repair manual in section 63. If you are going to undertake a project such as this, you really should get a VW Phaeton repair manual – see this post for more information:  How to Purchase a Phaeton Service Manual. But, if you don’t happen to have a repair manual handy, you can usually find one within walking distance of the VAG 1944B alignment platform.

Although I said that the process of removing the bumper cover is “fairly well described” in the repair manual, there are a few hints and tips worth mentioning if you have never done this before. Here they are.

*1)* You need a Torx 25 with a one foot extension on it.
This is the “special tool T 10113” that the repair manual refers to. Don’t even think of starting work unless you have this tool. The photo below shows you what you have to accomplish with it.

*Where you have to be able to reach with the special tool*









https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit5.jpg

Once you have the above tool (and the electrical parts needed to fabricate and install the city light connector), you can begin disassembly work. The first step is easy enough...

*Put the washer jet covers in the Headlight service position using the ZAB central display.
Pull the washer jet covers fully open – they will lock in place, fully open. *








https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit5b.jpg

*2)* Print out the bumper cover removal instructions.

There are about 25 different fasteners used to hold the bumper cover on. Not all of them are obvious – in fact, some are hidden pretty well. You really need to have a printed copy of the disassembly instructions to refer to, and you have to read the instructions very carefully to make sure you have not missed anything.

*3)* Identify the fasteners as you remove them.
You can easily identify the fasteners by just attaching them to a piece of masking tape, and marking the masking tape with the number that the disassembly instructions assign to that particular fastener. Be aware that there are four or five different types of fasteners used – they all look quite similar but they are NOT interchangeable.

Start by removing the foglight covers. You can find a detailed explanation about how to remove the foglight covers at this post: There's fog in my foglight... , but note that you only have to remove the plastic cover from the foglight. The foglight itself remains untouched, installed on the bumper cover - don't take it off.

*Single screw holding the cover for the foglight*








https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit6.jpg

*Then remove the large, obvious bolts under the grille…*








http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit7.jpg









http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit8.jpg

*…and all sorts of other bolts and screws*








https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit9.jpg









https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit10.jpg

*There are three ‘friction-fit’ plugs that just pull out. These are not screws. *








https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit11.jpg

*Remove these four screws from each side. It helps to turn the wheel go get easier access.*








https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit12.jpg

*This will allow this little flap to open up*








https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit13.jpg

*Now, remove the ‘hidden screw’ that everyone always misses*








https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit14.jpg

*Finally, undo the last fastener on each side, using the super-long screwdriver. *
This fastener normally will not ‘come out’ with the screwdriver – it is caged.








https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit15.jpg

Where you are aiming for with the long screwdriver








https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit16.jpg

_continued in next post..._


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Retrofitting Dual Xenon Headlamps (PanEuropean)*

Now, you are ready to take the bumper cover off. But, before you do that, you need to disconnect the wiring harness connectors that serve the front bumper. It is a bit difficult to do this if you are not really super-familiar with VW wiring connections. Use a small inspection mirror to look at the aft side of the connectors, to determine where to push. DO NOT break the upper part of the connectors off of the plastic clips that retain them on the metal bar. Take your time here, and work slowly… don’t force anything.

*Electrical Connectors for Bumper Services (PDC, Fog Lights, Temperature Sensor, etc.) *








https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit17.jpg









https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit17b.jpg

Taking the bumper cover off is fairly easy – just give the back edge of the bumper cover (at the fender well, just in front of the tire) a bump with the palm of your hand, and it will begin to slide forward. Bump each side forward about one inch, then go to the front of the car, and pull the whole assembly straight out from the car. It’s not very heavy, one person can easily hold it. If the bumper cover does not freely and easily release when you swot it inside the front fender well, then you probably forgot to remove a screw. Have yet another look at the printed instructions to find the screw(s) you overlooked. You should not need to apply any great amount of force to cause the bumper cover to slide forward.

Once the bumper cover is off, you will need to remove the support assemblies on either side of the car that hold the headlight washer squirters. There are five screws holding each of these assemblies on. Note that two of the screws are different from the other three – so, pay attention when you are taking it apart, so that you remember which kind of screw goes where when you put it back together later. Once you remove the five screws, you can just wiggle the carrier bar loose and let it dangle below the headlight – you don’t have to actually disconnect the part from the car. To wiggle it loose, first swing the outboard end away from the car, then pull the entire assembly about an inch outboard, to release the inboard end from the slot it fits into.

*How to remove the washer squirter carrier bar*








https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit18.jpg









https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit19.jpg









https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit20.jpg

Now, you have access to the fasteners that hold the headlight in place. You will see some very large nuts that are sort of a silver (aluminum) colour – forget about them, you are not interested in them at all. What you are interested in are the black colour Torx fasteners that fit through the middle of those large nuts. There are four Torx fasteners on each headlight – three that are easy to find (they are in the middle of those large nuts), and one that is ‘sort of hidden’ way back below the headlight. Use a flashlight to find the hidden one. You will notice that the very thoughtful staff at the Transparent Factory have marked an ‘X’ on it with a white crayon, to make it easy to find.

*Removing the headlight assembly fasteners*
Two are easy to find








https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit21.jpg

One is a bit of a PITA to remove








https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit22.jpg









https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit23.jpg

The fourth one is quite well hidden.








https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit24.jpg

Once you have the four bolts removed, you can take the headlight out. There is a bit of an art to getting it out. More or less, you move the headlight down and forward at the same time for about the first 3 inches of travel. The need for this will be obvious, because there is quite a bit of lens that is hidden up inside the fender, and unless you move the headlight downwards at the same time you move it forwards, it won’t move at all.

*Forward and downward (or, backward and upward) movement*








https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit24b.jpg

Once you have the headlight about 3 inches forward of its normal position, continue to move it straight forward, then, sort of ‘roll it downwards’ as shown in the photo above (the photo showing the fourth Torx bolt) to allow the downward-pointing attach bracket for the fourth bolt to clear the frame that surrounds the headlight. Pay close attention to how you get it out, because you will never get the new one back in unless you pay attention to how you got the original one out in the first place! Take my word for this, I am not kidding you.

The two electrical connectors are quite easy to remove. Now, you can carry the headlight assembly away from the car, and remove the low beam controller and the low beam xenon bulb. It is easiest to first disconnect the braided metal cable from both the bulb and the controller, then to remove the bulb after you have disconnected the metal cable. As soon as you remove the bulb, install it in the new (dual xenon) headlight assembly. The bulbs are both expensive and fragile. Don’t touch the glass portion with your fingers (heck, don’t touch the glass portion with anything), and wear safety glasses while you are handling the bulb. It contains gas that is under a lot of pressure, and if it shatters, it presents a very serious risk of injury due to flying shards of glass.

Once you have transferred the bulb, braided cable, and low beam controller to the new dual xenon assembly, you can install the high beam bulb, braided cable, and high beam controller, if you have not done so already. Once that is done, the new assembly should be ready for use. It’s probably a good idea to check and make sure that the turn signal bulb and city light are in place, although I think basic headlight assemblies are shipped with those components installed.

Now you need to do a little electrical work to adapt the two connectors on the NAR Phaeton to work with the three connectors on the ROW dual xenon headlamp assembly. This is not difficult. Pins three and four on the large connector supply ground and power, respectively, to the city light. You will need to cut these two wires, then attach the repair wires to them to supply power to the new ‘third connector’ that powers the city light on the dual xenon headlamp. This is a pretty straightforward task, however, here are some hints and tips:

*1) * Cut the wires at staggered intervals, this way, your butt splices won’t be rubbing up against each other when you wrap the new cable bundle.
*2) * Leave enough wire behind that you (or someone else) can revert to original configuration if you want to.
*3) * Use genuine VW repair wires, and use the special butt splices that the VW dealer supplies. The VW butt splices, once heated and shrunk, form a barrier to oxygen that will prevent corrosion from forming in the splice.
*4) * Don’t solder the wires. Although this might sound like a good idea, it isn’t, because vibration during normal vehicle operation can result in fractures of the tiny wires that make up the strand where they exit from the solder joint. Just crimp the connection, using the proper tool (it will be located in the same box you got the repair wire and butt splices from), then heat-shrink the splice using the special fitting on the end heat gun (which will also be in the same place as you found the butt splice and repair wire – typically in the parts department office).

*Assembling the Third Electrical Connector*
Cut these two wires








https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit25.jpg

What the connector looks like, before inserting the repair wires









https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit26.jpg

Wires inserted, purple retaining clip closed









https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit27.jpg

Third Connector fully assembled, ready for installation









https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit28.jpg

Connector installed, butt splices heat-shrunk









https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit29.jpg

Everything wrapped up, ready for use









https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit30.jpg

The new connector in place









https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit31.jpg

If you have a close look at the photo above, you will note that there are no pins in positions 3 or 4 of the 10 pin connector of the dual xenon headlight. This is how you can confirm that the two wires you cut are the ones at positions 3 and 4 of the matching cable on the wiring harness of your Phaeton. If you would like a bit more reassurance about this, look at wiring diagram 5 (Standard Equipment), page 4, track 38 (for the left city light) and page 7, track 72 for the right city light. You can get the wiring diagram from the same place you got the bumper cover removal instructions from.

From this point on, most of the work consists of just putting everything back together in the opposite order of how you took it apart.

*RE-ASSEMBLY*
First, you need to install the headlight. Gently rotate and wiggle it back into position, using the same vertical rolling motion you used to get it out. If it doesn’t want to go in, try a different technique. It should not be necessary under any circumstances to force the headlight. There is one way – and one way only – that it will fit back in there. Be patient until you discover the correct technique.

Once the headlight is in place, loosely install the four Torx bolts - three that go through the center of the three big nuts, and the one with the white X on it that goes at the very back of the headlight. Note very carefully that there is a support strut – sort of a flying buttress – that extends from the front corner of the fender to the frame that supports the headlight. It is essential that the one Torx bolt that installs vertically fits through this support strut. This is easy to forget and screw up if you are not aware of how things go together, so have a close look at the pictures below.

*Fitting the support strut through the vertical Torx bolt*








https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit32.jpg









https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit33.jpg

Now, you have to wiggle the headlight around so that the headlight fits smoothly up against the opening in the fender. This is what the big aluminum nuts are for – you rotate them in or out until the headlight fits ‘just perfectly’. You are allowed only 1 millimeter of error at any one place when fitting the headlight. Section 94 of the Phaeton repair manual provides some guidance about how to do this, but does not give any sequence for adjusting the big nuts. All I can suggest is that you get the headlight ‘more or less’ into the correct position, tighten the back bolt (the one that does not have an associated adjustment nut) just fractionally less than finger tight, then fool around adjusting the three big nuts. Don’t worry about beam alignment, your only concern at this stage of the game is getting a smooth, flush fit all around the edges of the fender opening. Perhaps have a look at the position of the big nuts on the original headlight that you removed to get an idea of where to start from.

Once you have the headlight in the correct position, torque the 4 bolts to 6 Nm.

Now, before you go any further, start the car and check all the lights for proper function. This includes low beam, high beam, turn signals, and city lights. The foglights won’t work, because you haven’t put the bumper back on yet. No big deal.

If all the lights work, you can re-install the bar that holds the windshield washer squirter. This is quite straightforward.

The easiest way to put the bumper cover back on is to have a helper. You can fit one side of the bumper cover into the guide fixtures at the aft outboard end of the bar that holds the windshield wiper squirter, then slide the bumper cover back. Once you have one side done, just leave it there and go around and fit the other side in the same way. 

Once the bumper cover is on, you have to put all the fasteners back in place. It is very important that you follow the sequence of assembly that is specified in the Phaeton repair manual. First you tighten the two bolts that require the really long Torx screwdriver. These are the bolts that will pull the bumper cover back to fit flush against the front fenders. There are another 3 sets of fasteners that need to be installed in a specific sequence – again, see the instructions for installation of the bumper cover contained in section 66 of the repair manual.

Before you put the covers over the foglights (this is the last thing to do), be sure to connect the two bumper electrical connectors on the left side of the car.

If you have done everything correctly, you should not have any fasteners left over, and the car should look like this:

*The end result*








https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit34.jpg

*ALIGNING THE HEADLIGHTS*
The North American Phaeton repair manual does not contain instructions to align dual xenon headlights. There is only one way to properly align these lights, and that is with the use of a Hella Beamsetter, which is a specialty tool that is available at your VW dealer. The Hella Beamsetter manual contains instructions for correct alignment of European specification headlights.

You will need a diagnostic scan tool (VAS 5052 or VAG-COM) to accomplish the basic setting of the headlamps. You will also need a diagnostic scan tool to erase all the fault codes that will have been generated when you tested the headlight function before putting the bumper cover on – the car will record fault codes relating to the missing OAT sensor, foglights, and side marker lights.

Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Retrofitting Dual Xenon Headlamps (PanEuropean)*

Some better photos of the end result.









https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit35.jpg









https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit36.jpg


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## W126C (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: Retrofitting Dual Xenon Headlamps (PanEuropean)*

WOW.







Once again great job. Do you have any pictures with just the city and parking turned on?


_Quote, originally posted by *PanEuropean* »_
If you have done everything correctly, you should not have any fasteners left over

Ok, so that's the secret.






















Regards,
Brent


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## uk_nick (Mar 31, 2006)

I know I'm going a bit off topic here, but those last profile shots of the headlamps and bonnet really remind me of some poster of an Art Deco style American steam locomotive. Can't remember which one, but it was all brute force wrapped in beautiful flowing lines. A bit like this one:
http://vintagecars.about.com/o...7.htm
.....but not quite


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## uk_nick (Mar 31, 2006)

.... on the other hand, maybe it also reminds me of this !
http://www.imdb.com/gallery/ss...03644


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Retrofitting Dual Xenon Headlamps (W126C)*

Thanks to Tony in the UK for spotting this listing on eBay: 220029683008 The item is a complete left side dual xenon headlight, including the controllers. The 'Buy it Now' price of €250 (about $320 US) looks very attractive to me. If you are thinking about this, don't forget to budget at least $100 for shipping, because the box is big... and it needs to be packed in the special box it comes in. The vendor indicates that he/she will ship to NAR.
I have no knowledge about this part other than what I have read in the eBay listing... but thought I would pass this info on, since it is quite rare to find a fully built up, fully functional headlight listed for sale.
Michael


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## geowben (Jan 26, 2005)

Michael, I certainly agree with you. It makes for a much cleaner appearance. Nice write up.


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## reneestreg (May 25, 2005)

Are the fog lights next?


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (reneestreg)*

No, the fog lights are the same all over the world - fairly low-power halogen lights that are designed to put a very small, narrowly defined pool of light on the pavement directly ahead of the car.
To tell you the truth, I have never used the fog lights on my car - there's no fog where I live.
Michael


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## plastech (May 3, 2006)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

I never use fog lights and we get fog
Tony


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Retrofitting Dual Xenon Headlamps (PanEuropean)*

Attached is a document that *partially *explains how to adjust Phaeton headlights. When you install new headlights, 'basic settings' need to be performed to the motors that automatically adjust the elevation of the low beam light in response to changes in the suspension loading of the car. To complete this 'basic settings' function, you need to have a diagnostic scan tool such as a VAS 5052 or a VAG-COM. Instructions for completing the 'basic settings' are provided by prompts on the VAS 5052. If anyone needs detailed instructions for doing this with a VAG-COM, let me know and I will write the instructions up.
Michael



Edit - if you can't gain access to the attached file, try this download link instead.
Chris


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## vivaitalia (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: Retrofitting Dual Xenon Headlamps (PanEuropean)*

Good Lord man; and you have a day job too?...............AMAZING Write up.
How about LEDs for the front signals?...........once again, just not sure what the engineers were thinking when they put LEDs for rear blinkers, and LEDs signals on the mirrors, yet skimped on the main front blinkers.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Retrofitting Dual Xenon Headlamps (vivaitalia)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vivaitalia* »_How about LEDs for the front signals...

I don't think there is any advantage to using a LED for the front turn signal. The bulb is very easy to get access to, and it is inexpensive to replace if it ever fails ($1). So, the engineers probably figured "why bother"?
Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Retrofitting Dual Xenon Headlamps (vivaitalia)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vivaitalia* »_Good Lord man; and you have a day job too? 

I do, but I try not to take it too seriously, and I only work about 6 months of the year. When those 6 months are, I have no control over, but when I am not at work (e.g. out of the country), I have lots of spare time.
Michael


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## dhatwood (Nov 26, 2007)

*Re: Retrofitting Dual Xenon Headlamps (PanEuropean)*

all i can say is WOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOW!!!!!!!!!!!! 
that is so cool. can you add a pic of what the city lights look like lit along w/ and without the fog lights?
thanks 
GREAT JOB ARE YOU FOR HIGHER!!!!!!!!!


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## gibber_2k (Jul 16, 2002)

*Re: Retrofitting Dual Xenon Headlamps (PanEuropean)*

How much would a second hand set of high beam xenons be worth?


_Modified by gibber_2k at 11:09 AM 1-18-2009_


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## B5Speedo (May 2, 2001)

*Re: Retrofitting Dual Xenon Headlamps (gibber_2k)*

Realistically, what ever you can sell them for. Check eBay for "completed listings" and use that as a baseline.


_Modified by B5Speedo at 9:18 PM 1-18-2009_


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## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (OEMplus.com)*

Well,
I recently found a pair of complete dual xenon headlamps on fleaBay and, seeing that the local pharmacy had a sale on brave pills, I decided to take the plunce and do this retrofit. I'll post some pictures once everything is finished.
Currently, everything is wired up and working I've just got to finish getting the headlamps flush with the fenders and then put the bumper back on. The offside headlamp was very easy to align but for some reason getting the nearside lamp aligned is like trying to push a piece of cooked spaghetti up a cat's backside...
Anyway, tomorrow I'll take the car to get the headlamps aligned. I'm a little worried since the headlamps are German and I'm not 100% sure that they'll be alignable for the UK but we'll see!
Apart from Michael and Chris, has anyone else had a stab at this retrofit?
Harry


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## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

Now I've just got to find out if I can realign the headlamps for RHD. If not, there may be a complete set of dual xenon headlamps available in the classifieds section!








Harry


_Modified by Prince Ludwig at 4:36 AM 8-1-2009_


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## pirateat50 (Dec 10, 2005)

*Re: (Prince Ludwig)*

Very nice, Harry. Best luck on the alignment.


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## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

Unofortunately, it looks like the beam pattern is set for the continent and there's no way of adjusting it. 
However, after playing around with the old headlamps, I've been able to remove the subassembly that houses the bulb, the beam pattern and the projector lens. 
If (and I'm crossing my fingers to the point of cutting off the circulation!) it's the same component on the dual xenon headlamps, I should be able to swap them round. This does mean taking everything off again but that serves me right for not checking this sort of thing before hand








If it goes well, I'll post some pictures for any UK members who wish to do the same thing since there are a lot more German headlamps on eBay than UK ones...
Harry


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## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

Here's the subassembly from the old RHD headlamps:








The old headlamp assembly it came from:








Awaiting transplantation:








Harry


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (Prince Ludwig)*

Great photos Harry, thanks very much for providing the details about the sub-assemblies.
Michael


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## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

Well, after a huge amount of shouting, muttering and outright swearing I think I've finally converted my dual xenon headlamps for driving on the left hand side of the road...
The biggest problem came when trying to remove the projector subassemblies from the dual xenon headlamps since whereas the single xenon just comes straight out through the access hole, the dual xenon assembly will just not come out (and believe me, I tried!).
Consequently, you have to disassemble the sub-assembly inside the headlamp housing and bring it out piece by piece. To do so you have to prise off four clips that surround the sub-assembly using some pliers. They will ping off inside the headlamp so you have to shake them out once you've got all four off. 
Once that's done you'll be left with the following pieces:








You can see here the difference between the LHD (top) and RHD (bottom) beam pattern cut outs:








Next comes the very, very, very tricky bit - reassembling the sub-assemblies inside the headlamps. To do this, I threaded a wire through the lens subframe, dropped all the bits back into place and then lifted everything up so I could push the four clips back on:








Once that was done, I screwed the subassembly back into the headlamp housing and put everything back together (and reinstalled the headlamps in the car...)
As you can see, the beam pattern now looks much more appropriate
















All the lights are now working and the headlamp levellers appear to be doing their job as well so I just need to get them aligned now.
Although I love the look of the car with the dual xenon headlamps, I would recommend anyone in the UK to think twice about buying headlamps set up for LHD cars! It is, however, possible and that's the main thing


















_Modified by Prince Ludwig at 6:14 AM 8-2-2009_


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## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

One final update on this - I've just had the headlamps aligned at a VW dealer and everything is now sorted properly.
So, retrofit complete!








Harry


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## plastech (May 3, 2006)

*Re: (Prince Ludwig)*

Hi Harry,
You could make it a full time job.
Tony


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## adamkodish (Mar 5, 2006)

*Re: (Prince Ludwig)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Prince Ludwig* »_One final update on this - I've just had the headlamps aligned at a VW dealer and everything is now sorted properly.
So, retrofit complete!








Harry

Harry, you must be feeling quite confident at retro-fitting now....how about a V10 engine?








http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2005-Vol...0.m14
Adam


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## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

Tony,
Good to see you again! Did you get the link to the HD factory video I sent you?
Adam, 
Not sure about the engine but the power boot is awfully tempting








Harry


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## plastech (May 3, 2006)

*Re: (Prince Ludwig)*

Morning Harry,
Yes downloaded and installed.
Rgds Tony


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## Ronntar (Nov 4, 2009)

*Re: Retrofitting Dual Xenon Headlamps (PanEuropean)*

Hi Michael and "Crew",
I and also some guys over here in Germany (and I guess, at many other places in the World, too) got one little problem:
Did EVER anyone of you guys change a bulb on a *dual-xenon* headlight? So, like the ones Micheal built in his Phaeton (shown below), exchanging the single Xenon Headlamp.
If so, could this specialist please post some pictures or information on how to open the Headlamps from behind when built in in a car, for to change the Xenon-bulbs? Seems to be totally different from the single xenon ones and I couldn't find any information about it.








Thank you so much!
Arne


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Retrofitting Dual Xenon Headlamps (Ronntar)*

Hi Arne:
Dual xenon headlights were not offered in North America (I did a retrofit on my car), so, there might not be anyone from North America who has any experience changing the bulbs in these.
Touch wood, I have not had to replace a bulb (low or high) in my headlights yet.
Michael


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## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

Arne,
Regardless of which bulb it is, I fear you may have to remove the entire headlamp assembly to get at it. Although you can remove the rubber cover for the high beam, I'm not sure you can remove the bulb given the available space and if it's the low beam, one of the controllers is screwed in place on top of it so you can't access it the same way as the single xenon assembly.
Having said that, removing the front bumper is not the hardest job in the world - I managed it despite the only experience I'd had previously of working on my Phaeton was installing a rear climate control panel!
Harry


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

For the record, here are the instructions for removing and replacing the front bumper.

You will need a helper to lift the bumper cover off, and also to put it back on.

The instructions need to be followed carefully. If you want to know why, see this post: Crack on front bumper under headlights.

Michael


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## Sarmale89 (Dec 15, 2010)

*Parts List for Retrofitting Dual Xenon Headlamps*

Would either Michael or Harry (or anyone else who has done this mod) confirm or correct my part listing (and part numbers) needed to complete this job? I have an '04 NAR W12 and am considering putting in dual xenons, but want to make sure that I account for all of the parts costs before I pull the trigger.

(2) Dual Xenon Headlamps (3D1 941 017 & 3D1 941 018)
(4) Xenon bulbs (I can't find the part number, but here's the item on Partsgeek http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2004/volkswagen/phaeton/body_electrical/headlight_bulb.html)
(2) Xenon High beam controllers (3D0 909 391)
(2) Xenon high beam cables (3D0 971 671) Is this the high beam cable? - http://www.ecstuning.com/Search_VW/3d0971671/ES351106/ 

Michael, you mentioned that modifying the wiring to allow for the city lights cost only about $20 in parts. Are there any additional parts needed to made this modification other than the ones I've listed above?

Bobby


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## tynee (Dec 19, 2007)

*Halo upgrade?*

Would it be possible to switch the projector housings with aftermarket units that have halos? 
I'd like to use these if possible, I obviously need to mount the extra power units, what else do I need to consider?


----------



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

tynee said:


> Would it be possible to switch the projector housings with aftermarket units that have halos?


 Oh Lord, please don't consider going down that route - you will wind up with lighting that is absolutely non-compliant with FMVSS (safety standards).

If you were to do that in Europe, the car would be pulled off the road.

Michael


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## tynee (Dec 19, 2007)

Yeah, I know. I hate the cars I see that have aftermarket lights that blind all oncoming traffic, and that's why I asked. I would really like to have halo rings as my DRL's, like the BMW's, and burn the HID's only at night. Since I'm going to do the headlight retrofit anyways, I figured I'd ask how complicated it would be to do correctly and keep the beams in line with the safety standard. I don't want to be the guy that looks like I have my brights on all the time. Unfortunately The new LED lights seem to have a hard time syncing with an 04 model, so I'm trying a different route.


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## Sarmale89 (Dec 15, 2010)

PanEuropean said:


> Attached is a document that *partially *explains how to adjust Phaeton headlights. When you install new headlights, 'basic settings' need to be performed to the motors that automatically adjust the elevation of the low beam light in response to changes in the suspension loading of the car. To complete this 'basic settings' function, you need to have a diagnostic scan tool such as a VAS 5052 or a VAG-COM. Instructions for completing the 'basic settings' are provided by prompts on the VAS 5052. *If anyone needs detailed instructions for doing this with a VAG-COM, let me know and I will write the instructions up*.
> Michael


 Michael, 

I am planning on doing my dual xenon retrofit sometime this week. Would you mind going over how perform the settings adjustment with a VAG-COM? I just got my VAG-COM last week and would appreciate the tutorial. 

Bobby


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Bobby:

I would like to help, but I am out of the country right now (in the Seychelles, which is on the opposite side of the world to North America) and I will be working every day from now to Feb 12 training pilots.

I will do my best to try and dig up some information that I can post in text format, but I won't be available for back-and-forth text conversation until I get back to Canada, which is foreseen for about mid-February.

Michael


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## Sarmale89 (Dec 15, 2010)

PanEuropean said:


> Bobby:
> 
> I would like to help, but I am out of the country right now (in the Seychelles, which is on the opposite side of the world to North America) and I will be working every day from now to Feb 12 training pilots.
> 
> ...


Michael:

Thanks for the response and for your willingness to share your expertise. I'll see what I can figure out on my own. If I can't figure it out, I'll just have my dealer do the basic coding when they align the headlamps.

Bobby


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## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

Hi Bobby,

You might as well have it done by the dealer since your headlamps will have been set up for the UK so will probably need to be aligned anyway.

Harry


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## Sarmale89 (Dec 15, 2010)

Prince Ludwig said:


> Hi Bobby,
> 
> You might as well have it done by the dealer since your headlamps will have been set up for the UK so will probably need to be aligned anyway.
> 
> Harry


Will do. thanks.

Bobby


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Prince Ludwig said:


> ...your headlamps will have been set up for the UK so will probably need to be aligned anyway.


*WHAT???* You have installed UK spec headlights on a North American car? That is *NOT* going to work. The European spec headlights (both left or right hand drive) have a beam pattern that provides about a 15 degree uptick towards the curb side of the car. If you put RHD headlights on a LHD car, that uptick is going to go towards the eyes of the oncoming driver, not towards the curbside.

This cannot be corrected by headlight alignment. The internal construction of the headlights is very different between RHD and LHD cars. The headlight casings are welded shut, I don't think it would be possible to modify the internal design of the headlights even if you had a very well equipped machine shop and considerable expertise in tool-making. 

Michael


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## Sarmale89 (Dec 15, 2010)

PanEuropean said:


> *WHAT???* You have installed UK spec headlights on a North American car? That is *NOT* going to work. The European spec headlights (both left or right hand drive) have a beam pattern that provides about a 15 degree uptick towards the curb side of the car. If you put RHD headlights on a LHD car, that uptick is going to go towards the eyes of the oncoming driver, not towards the curbside.
> 
> This cannot be corrected by headlight alignment. The internal construction of the headlights is very different between RHD and LHD cars. The headlight casings are welded shut, I don't think it would be possible to modify the internal design of the headlights even if you had a very well equipped machine shop and considerable expertise in tool-making.
> 
> Michael


Michael, 

No, I am *NOT* installing RHD headlamps "as is" on my NAR Phaeton. As demonstrated by Harry and as stated in my post (linked below), I will be swapping out the beam cutouts so that the beam pattern conforms to U.S. regulations.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-Adventure&p=69571956&viewfull=1#post69571956

I will be removing my NAR headlamps tonight and making the cutout swap.

Bobby


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Ah - OK, sorry, I have not been following the post that closely - I did not realize you were doing that.

Michael


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## Sarmale89 (Dec 15, 2010)

PanEuropean said:


> Bobby:
> 
> I would like to help, but I am out of the country right now (in the Seychelles, which is on the opposite side of the world to North America) and I will be working every day from now to Feb 12 training pilots.
> 
> ...


Michael,

Is the procedure for coding the dual xenons in the VW Repair Manual? I seem to recall seeing something in there about this. If so, is the procedure the same on the VAG-COM or is it a different animal? I'd like to do this part myself as I already have the VAG-COM and may as well use it. Also, if the dealer has to clear fault codes, code the headlamps, AND align them then they'll charge me (as they well should). My service adviser indicated to me a few weeks ago, after my telling him about my dual xenon retrofit project, that I could just bring my car in anytime to have them align the headlamps free of charge.

Bobby


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Bobby:

The dual xenon headlights don't have to be "coded" per se, because when you install the two headlight assemblies, you also install new controllers for the high beams at the same time. The low beam controllers on dual xenon headlights are the same as the low beam controllers on single xenon headlights In a dual xenon installation, these controllers don't interact with the car any differently than single xenon installation. It is actually the same controller for the low beam circuit - and the only interaction with other systems that involves that controller is watching the suspension system to see how the car is sitting, for the purpose of keeping the low beam lights correctly positioned in the vertical range of movement.

There is a "basic settings" or "adaptation" script (I'm not sure which) that is invoked when you align the headlights. I carried this work out using the VAS 5052 diagnostic scan tool at my VW dealer, and using the Hella Beamsetter (headlight alignment tool) at my VW dealer. I used the "guided functions" capability of the VAS 5052 to put the headlights into the alignment mode - this whole process is well explained in the VW service manual documentation and in the guided functions portion of the VAS 5052.

Once the alignment is complete - and the alignment itself is accomplished manually, using adjustment screws on the headlights - the two low beam controllers are then set back to normal operations mode. The whole low beam alignment process is identical to what is done with Phaetons that have only single xenon headlights. Alignment of the high beams (xenon or halogen, doesn't matter) is strictly a manual process, like it would be on any 1960s car with four headlights.

You can probably invoke the alignment setting using a VAG-COM, but I didn't bother even looking into how to do that, because although I have a VAG-COM, I don't have a Hella Beamsetter...  so, I had to go to the dealership to use the Beamsetter, and it was much easier for me to just use the VAS 5052, complete with guided functions.

Michael


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## Sarmale89 (Dec 15, 2010)

PanEuropean said:


> Bobby:
> 
> The dual xenon headlights don't have to be "coded" per se, because when you install the two headlight assemblies, you also install new controllers for the high beams at the same time. The low beam controllers on dual xenon headlights are the same as the low beam controllers on single xenon headlights In a dual xenon installation, these controllers don't interact with the car any differently than single xenon installation. It is actually the same controller for the low beam circuit - and the only interaction with other systems that involves that controller is watching the suspension system to see how the car is sitting, for the purpose of keeping the low beam lights correctly positioned in the vertical range of movement.
> 
> ...


Michael,

Thanks for the explanation. I'm taking my Phaeton in this morning to have them align the headlights and won't worry about trying to do anything with my VAG-COM.

Bobby


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## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

Michael,

early on in this thread you point out that you can pull the washer nozzle cover open and it locks in place, true, but how do you then close it? Mine is now just flapping around when previously all was well:banghead:

Cheers
Stu


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hi Stu:

If you put the headlight washer nozzles in the service position by using the appropriate command available from the Front Display Screen, the nozzle doors will be about 85% of the way open (they will be 'fully open' in the sense that that is as far as they ever open during normal operations).

You can then take hold of the nozzle door and move it forward about another 1 cm (3/8 of an inch) and it will mechanically 'latch' in the fully open position. It rides over a small cam when it does this.

But... if there is any degradation in the mechanism that normally drives the door to the fully closed position when the nozzle is extended, then it probably won't lock in the fully extended position. 

In the photo below, the red arrow points at a U-shaped assembly that provides the spring force needed to return the door to the closed position, or, if you pull the door fully open, the force that is needed to hold it in the fully open position. Click on the image to enlarge it.

Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Archival Note:*

Another post describing dual xenon retrofit, but with greater detail about the construction of the headlight assemblies: My Dual Xenon Adventure.

Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Photos re-hosted. 

Michael


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## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

Michael,

Reading over your wonderfull extensive thread including photo's and based on my job to renew my both dead controllers due to use of bad quality 8000k xenons, i just have a question. As i destroyed both my controllers using these 8000k xenons I had to renew both lower beam ballasts/controllers. 

The lower beam controllers in my 2007 V6 TDI dual Xenon however were located on the side (behind the adjustment extension), not on extended back part as we should expect and as showed on the first picture. Perhaps there is a difference between ROW and NAR?

3D0907391 seems the right version for lower beam , 4 pins or 12 pins version (depending year of built). These controllers are very sensitive for non OEM Xenons, and very expensive.


Wouter


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hello Wouter:

Dual xenon headlamps were never offered in NAR. I purchased the ones I installed in my car in Europe, prior to 2007.

It is possible that the headlamp assembly went through a change of design between 2003-2006 and 2007. The headlamps I purchased likely came from a MY 2003, 04, or 05 car.

Michael


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## ADRIAN0 (Apr 24, 2012)

I wanna change my low beam xenon bulbs with Osram d1s 66144CBI Cool blue intense Xenarc 5000k... i wanna know if they will work whith my low beam controler because the oem osram instaled are 4150k ... or will give me some problem... i must change the low beam bulbs because they are  flickering ?

Regards!


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## tynee (Dec 19, 2007)

I hope they work, because i have a set of four to install with the quad projector retrofit!


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## ADRIAN0 (Apr 24, 2012)

I don't know what to buy ...i must change the low beam bulbs because are flickering.

1- the oem osram 4150k
2- osram 5000k 66144CBI Cool blue intense 
3- philips 6000k 002208WX
4 -philips 6000k Ultra Blue 85410 

all bulbs are D1S model, any suggestion .

Thanks!


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## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

D1S 6000k is a real nice white color, which really suits the Pheaton in appearance. Standard OEM xenons are color 4300k (a boring yellow) color) or 5000k, and these OEM's seems well adapted to the Phaetons lowbeam ballast/controller 3D0909157/158. Other xenons might damage the ballast and the aint cheap, 500 Euro each.. And i know :-(. These ballast seems very sensitive for cheap Chinese xenons, so be prepared. Dont use 30 euro xenons. 

Wouter


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## ADRIAN0 (Apr 24, 2012)

For 6000k i found Philips 002208 WX aka "Ultinon", or Philips Ultra blue 85410UB.... the philips 002208WX ultinon are not road legal "not for use in EUROPE/USA." but who cares :what:


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## ADRIAN0 (Apr 24, 2012)

ADRIAN0 said:


> For 6000k i found Philips 002208 WX aka "Ultinon", or Philips Ultra blue 85410UB.... the philips 002208WX ultinon are not road legal "not for use in EUROPE/USA." but who cares :what:


Btw the both models have same price about 220 euro for 2 bulb's.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Archival Note: *See also this very interesting illustrated description of the same project by another forum member - My Dual Xenon Adventure.

Michael


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## tynee (Dec 19, 2007)

*Success! Osram Cool Blue Intense*

This last week I successfully installed both dual-HID projector headlamps, and used the Osram Cool Blue Intense lamps. Well, I didn't get one unit lined up correctly, so the dealer had to adjust the mounting nuts while doing the headlight alignment, but all is working now. Thanks everyone for all the info and photos, it really helped. Especially the part about swapping the beam cutouts, that must have been a bear doing it for the first time. 

I wonder how many USA Phaetons have the quad-HID setup now?


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

*Additional bumper cover removal comments*

Finally had to remove the front bumper cover on my P for the first time during my timing belt replacement project. Thanks to Michael's detailed instructions it was a piece of cake. 

I did take a few photos during that project and to make it even easier for everyone using these instructions in the future, I want to add a few comments. 

Here's an overview of all the fasteners used on the front bumper cover including fastener type/size:










Those friction fit fasteners located on the bottom center of the bumper cover look like they would be Phillips head screws but they are not. Below is a picture showing how those look like, that should make it easier to understand how it works:










I found that the easiest way to remove those was with a tool that's similar to a screwdriver with a curved and split tip:



















Finally I have a question for Michael. I didn't quite understand the purpose of locking the headlight washer covers in the open position. Was that specific to the headlight replacement project? It seemed like those covers don't interfere with the bumper cover removal and installation even in the closed position.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Phaetonlvr said:


> ...I didn't quite understand the purpose of locking the headlight washer covers in the open position. Was that specific to the headlight replacement project? It seemed like those covers don't interfere with the bumper cover removal and installation even in the closed position.


Hi Stephen:

First of all, thanks very much for posting the pictures of the fasteners and the tips about fastener removal, that is really useful information.

It's been many years since I took the front bumper cover off my car, thus I can't recall exactly why the little doors over the headlight washers need to be pulled open prior to bumper cover removal. I'm going to speculate that it might be necessary in order to disengage the washer door opening mechanism from the washer jets themselves. In other words, when the washer jets extend upwards to operate, they push against a cam on the little doors, opening the doors. It might be that if the bumper cover is removed and/or replaced with the doors closed, this cam mechanism might foul on the jets.

But... that's just educated speculation, it's not a fact.

Michael


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

*Moderation Note:*

Photos re-hosted.

Chris


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Couldn't sleep?? Good job! Thanks!


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

> invisiblewave
> Couldn't sleep??!


Counting lightbulbs didn't work...

Paradoxically I wanted to look at this thread anyway, since the P had a burned out sidelight bulb (£6 for a VAG part) and the main dealer suggested that £1,080 was an appropriate price, assuming that it was time to replace all 4 HIDs while the bumper cover was off.

Unfortunately the car dumped most of its steering fluid on the road on the way to the dealer, so I diverted to the local VAG independent who reckons on 5 hours labour to remove the leaking steering rack before even thinking about looking at the bumper cover etc.

I politely declined the dealer's offer of VAG HIDs at £181 each, since they are only €49 for the same VAG part from an EU Skoda source. The Phaeton and the Yeti share the same Philips-sourced VAG bulb, but don't share the same price. 

Chris


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

I assume you can't get to the bulb from the back on the V10 like we can on the V8?


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

The instructions say 1. Remove the bumper cover 2. Remove the headlights 3. Change the sidelight bulbs 4. Reassembly is the reverse 5. Realign the headlights using a Hella and the Guided Procedure in the scan tool...

Not quite a Halfords forecourt £7 job then. Maybe with the turbo air pipes removed it might be possible, if it is possible to remove those with the engine _in situ_.

I expected the steering rack removal procedure to be "1. Remove the engine" but the indy garage achieved it after removing the LH strut. The leaking rack is being collected by a shop that can pressure test and refurbish (allegedly).

Chris


*Example Phaeton V10 engine bay*


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

If you can get the top of the airboxes off, you may be able to do it. I did it last time by removing the top of the airbox, then just unfastening the bottom so it was loose, that gave me enough room to get my arm in and meant I didn't have to do the Chinese puzzle to get the whole airbox out.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Thanks, I shall ask if the Indy techs think it's feasible. They seem very competent so far (at least in taking stuff apart!)

Chris


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## RocketVol (Oct 7, 2014)

Thanks for the work rehosting this one Chris. I am seriously considering adding the dual xenons next year and this will be a huge help. Appreciate the work.

I had my steering rack blow out a seal on the left side late last year, but warranty covered it. $600 in labor and $1400 in parts, and the rack was a VW rebuild. My tech, who has a Phaeton, said it was a job he did not want to have to do again!

John


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

Hello everyone.
I made the assembly of the bixenons on my phaeton 2007, I followed the editing of Michael to the letter, I go back together to test but I have no high beam, it flashes then nothing , I change the light bulb I had on my simple xenon is the same, it does on both sides, must I change the ballast?
they are the same road lights and crossing?
or is there something to activate at vag com?

thank you for your help am lost.

thank you


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

MY phaeton is from 2007 is the person who sold me told me that he will ride, I am gp0 and my car is a gp1.

Does his pose problem on the high beam ???

Help me please.


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## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

The headlamps aren't interchangeable between GP0 and GP1 Phaetons. If you want to upgrade a GP1 you'll have to find the bi-xenon headlamps and probably check the wiring/coding to make sure everything is functional (such as the curve lighting).

Harry


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

But what's the difference ???
Everything works except the flashing high beam..it looks more like a ballast problem, I'll look on the vag com what he tells me .. I'll let you know otherwise too bad I go back the simple xenons ...


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## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

dasantas said:


> But what's the difference ???
> Everything works except the flashing high beam..it looks more like a ballast problem, I'll look on the vag com what he tells me .. I'll let you know otherwise too bad I go back the simple xenons ...


As I already said in both my previous post and the thread you made about the headlamps a few months ago, I very much doubt the dual-xenon headlamps from the GP0 will work in the GP1 as it's a completely different setup. The GP0 uses the second HID bulb for high beams while the GP1 just uses a shutter ahead of the single HID bulb.


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

I just watched and i had hs ballasts i retrieve those from my xenons simple and it works.
So on the gp1 there is only one ballast ???
Thank you.


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

Hello
Does anyone know the reference of ballast high beam?

How much pine?
On mine there are 12, and there is another with 4.

So 12 pin: 3D0 907 391 A : https://www.ebay.fr/itm/VW-PHAETON-...haeton&hash=item54458503dd:g:m6IAAOSw4DJYlG7y
and 4 pin: 3D0 907 391 B : https://www.ebay.fr/itm/Audi-A4-VW-...haeton&hash=item1c6945c998:g:z0EAAOSw81dZrPYd : 

Do you confirm?

And there is to adapt the 12 in 4, because 12pin are rare now : http://www.ebay.fr/itm/VAG-Xenon-St...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Thanks for your help.


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## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_singl...941/subcategory/941020/part_id/3693333/lang/e


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

Mine is 2007.

http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_singl...bcategory/941020/part_id/3689450/lang/e#sec_2

I have to so with A is 12 pin and B is 4 pin.

With adaptator 12/4pin the B work ??


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## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

GP1 Phaetons were from Q2 2007 onwards. You previously said yours was from November 2007, therefore dual xenon headlamps were never an option.

I've explained several times now why you're not going to be able to get the dual xenon headlamps to work and it doesn't seem to have gone in. If you want to retrofit headlamps you'll have better luck with the bi-xenon ones that were meant for the GP1.


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

But it works I followed the tutorial as it should be the pb come ballast road lights, I received the headlights but the two ballast road lights do not work because hs, I recover the two I had on my xenons simple but they are ballasts of dipped beam reference 3d0909157 on the left and 3d0909158 on the right, but I need 3d0907391A in 12 pin for high beam.

do you understand.


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

All work.

I change 4 lamp and 2 ballast : 3d0907391A.

All is ok.


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

Hello.

Is there a relay for bi xenon ???.

Thanks.


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

Hello everyone.

Well I have a problem with the road lights, it cuts and turns on and yet the lamps and ballasts are new.
Does someone have an idea ??
Everything is well mounted I do not understand, is it a pb relay or something to add.


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

Please somebody


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

The lamps for high beam ans low beam it s the same ??
Thanks.

I found this.

Low beam : N10566103
High beam: N10566101

I found this for : Osram D1S night breaker

What's is the diiference ?

And the cable she's important ??

3D0971671 B and C : Adapter cable high beam


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

Hello.

I need to change my ballast high beam 3D907391A.

Somebody have a part number valeo ?.
On site or ebay because VW is 600euros..

Please help.

Thanks.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Bruno,

The UK Valeo lighting parts catalogue is here:
https://www.valeoservice.co.uk/en-uk/catalogs?lob=74

But I can only see 3D0 907 391B parts listed, not 3D0 907 391A.


Chris


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

3D0 907 391B i 4 pin.

3D0 907 391A is 12 pin.

I found on ebay this : https://www.ebay.fr/itm/Xenon-Steue...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649


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## lectricman (Dec 29, 2017)

Would someone please re-host the pictures of this thread? I need to get a look at the wiring harness connectors and their placement behind the driver side fog light. These are for the distance control sensors and temp sensor. Thank you!


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

*Not again!*

Hi,

The problem this time -- only the latest in a string of issues with hosting -- is that the newest self-updates of most browsers have started blocking in-line images that don't use an HTTPS (SSL encryption) url.

Nothing has changed at VWVortex, but I re-hosted the images in this thread a little while ago to non-SSL hosting since, at that time, it was the most reliable.

I will do what I can as soon as I can. I can see the photos when I use Internet Explorer 9, but very few people still have that. At this stage I haven't checked many other browser versions.

I don't relish re-hosting thousands of images yet again...

Chris


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## lectricman (Dec 29, 2017)

Paximus said:


> Hi,
> 
> The problem this time -- only the latest in a string of issues with hosting -- is that the newest self-updates of most browsers have started blocking in-line images that don't use an HTTPS (SSL encryption) url.
> 
> ...


Thank you Chris for re-hosting the photos. I wasn't able to respond sooner as I was away. The photos were EXACTLY what I needed. Thanks again. Howard


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

Hello.

My phaeton is november 2007.

Gp1 bi xenon is this : https://allegro.pl/vw-phaeton-bi-xenon-led-2006-2010-i7562505467.html ?
Orginal of my car is the same of gp0 : https://volkswagen.7zap.com/fr/rdw/phaeton/phae/2008-631/9/941-941001/

But bi xenon no.I install bi xenon gp0 and is easy to install but problem with high beam, no problem when the engine is stopped, but engine running with the xenons turn on the high beam turns off turns on

Can someone help me to operate the high beams? Must I add a relay, a fuse, a resistor ??
Thank you all I know it is possible, the bixenons of gp1 are really very expensive.

Thanks for your help


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

Hello everybody

We advance a little .. So with contact no worries the lights work, but the engine turns it turns off again
What do you think ??

Thanks for you helps.


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## GuyPaddick (Jun 20, 2018)

The price drops since Michael's guide are huge! I just had a look around and could find both headlights complete with all the controllers for £310 total! Back in 2006 he said these were about $1500 per side!


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

Gp0 sure but after i'm not sure.

What is the good price for GP1 bi xenon ?

Thanks


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

I found bi xenon gp1.

It's easy to install ??..No problem for my gp1 simple xenon ??

Somebody help me ??

Thanks.


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## GuyPaddick (Jun 20, 2018)

I'm looking to do this mod around Christmas time. I have a 2008 GP1 I've just noticed from dasantas's post though that the GP1 bi-xenon he posted is not the same as I thought. The ones I had seem to have the side light(?) as a small light between the projectors at the bottom, but the one dasantas posted does not have this. Is it possible to retrofit the lights I can find in, or does it have to be the ones dasantas has linked above?

Thanks


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

No one did not help me a lot here, it's a shame I had to search and find all alone, it's true that I am disappointed.
Thanks anyway.


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## ARAKELIAN Philippe (Apr 16, 2017)

*Your pictures*

Hi PanEuropean
I have a Phaeton V10 limo 4 seats and must change a parking light. I guess I need to remove the front bumper. Your post about it seems very well made, unfortunately I can't open the pictures you have join...I don't understand why as I could watch at some about door panel removing.
Thanks in advance, I send you my best wishes from France for the New Year. Enjoy


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## bradleymc (Jan 11, 2016)

*Access, please?*

Would it be possible for me to access this PDF, please? System says my userid does not have sufficient privileges. Thanks for any help!


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

ARAKELIAN Philippe said:


> Hi PanEuropean
> I have a Phaeton V10 limo 4 seats and must change a parking light. I guess I need to remove the front bumper. Your post about it seems very well made, unfortunately I can't open the pictures you have join...I don't understand why as I could watch at some about door panel removing.
> Thanks in advance, I send you my best wishes from France for the New Year. Enjoy



I can see all of the pictures with Internet Explorer 11.

Which light is the one you call a parking light?

The city lights are removable without removing the bumper cover. The turn signal bulbs can also be changed without removing the bumper cover.

The instructions should be in the owner's manual if you have one.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

> Hi PanEuropean
> I have a Phaeton V10 limo 4 seats and must change a parking light. I guess I need to remove the front bumper. Your post about it seems very well made, unfortunately I can't open the pictures you have join...I don't understand why as I could watch at some about door panel removing.
> Thanks in advance, I send you my best wishes from France for the New Year. Enjoy


Hi Philippe,

Michael (PanEuropean) is currently not available much on the forum, however he has just generously funded some image hosting to support his library of photos posted here. I will edit the thread as soon as I can (hopefully later today) and the photos should then be visible for everybody again.

I am sorry for the image problems, although these have been way beyond our control!




> Would it be possible for me to access this PDF, please? System says my userid does not have sufficient privileges. Thanks for any help!
> bradleymc


I will certainly re-host the PDF when I work through the re-hosting. It takes a while...


Chris


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

> No one did not help me a lot here, it's a shame I had to search and find all alone, it's true that I am disappointed.
> Thanks anyway.


Hi Bruno,

So sorry that you didn't get much support here this time. It may be that folks are really busy elsewhere over the holidays, or that current Phaeton owners do not have much experience on their lights yet.

If you _have _found the information you wanted by private research, please do post it here as even a few part numbers or an explanation of what you discovered may help others in the future.

I hope to be more active here in 2019 so will do what I can to help next time. Meanwhile, Eric has responded with some further questions.

Kind regards,
Chris


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

*Photos re-hosted*

41 photos and 1 PDF re-hosted.

Chris


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

I did not have time yet to look for my driving lights but the last time I had to dismount (again), and on the high beam there was no mass saw that I cut the two wires as on the tutorial for the position lights, I just found the good ballast 391A hoping that it is but I think more a bit of intensity because before I was 55w on my high beam and xenon him is in 35W.
No pb before start they work but as soon as they start they blink, I speak well of the road lights no worries with the rest.


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

She work on mine gp1 the gp0 bi xenon just put te correct ballast.
If you want more information no problem


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## GuyPaddick (Jun 20, 2018)

Hi Dasantas, glads you've confirmed this as I too want to fit the Bi Xenons in my GP1. I found a few GP0 Bi Xenon headlights second hand for sale on eBay complete with ballast/controllers. What else did you need to make the change work?

On a side note... why do we call them Bi Xenons when they are specifically not Bi-Xenon lol. By definition, Xenon headlights are where the car has 4 Xenon bulbs, two sets of Xenon bulbs each side. Bi Xenons are where you have a single Xenon bulb each side that switches between High and Low beam (Main and Dipped beam). My friend was calling his B7 Audi A4 headlights Bi Xenon and I said theyre not, so we looked at the definition and he was right!


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

Follow the tutorial you have to push the position lights and add a mass on the xenon high beam, because on the gp1 the mass of the low beam is used for the high beam too.
You will see it by dismantling your headlights gp1.


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

I agree with you about the lights that switch between crossing and road.
But for me gp0 fires with 4 ballast and 4 lamps are bi xenons.
In better I say because on the phaeton the crossing remains light too.

you find on allegro for good price : https://allegro.pl/listing?string=bi xenon phaeton&order=m&bmatch=baseline-cl-n-uni-1-4-1123


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## GuyPaddick (Jun 20, 2018)

Hey,

So I'm buying parts for my Bi Xenon conversion now on my GP1. GP0 and GP1 Halogen headlights are the same part number so there should be no issues installing a GP0 Bi Xenon in my GP1.

So far I have in the basket:


1 x Phaeton GP0 Bi Xenon Headlight complete with ballasts and controllers (Left)
1 x Phaeton GP0 Bi Xenon Headlight complete with ballasts and controllers (Right)
2 x High Beam Cable (3D0 971 671)
2 x VW Connector (PN 1J0 973 702)
2 x VW Repair Wire
Lots of Heat Shrink (Already owned)
Heat Gun, Crimping Tool and Tool Kit (Already owned)
4x Osram Nightbreaker D1S Xenon Bulbs (6000k) (Already owned)

From reading through the guide I think these were all the required parts, so if I've forgotten anything or anybody else who has done this has input on other things that would be massively appreciated.

I'm installing DRLs as well. I don't have the confidence to work around implementing a switchback DRL/Indicator into where the indicator is, as seen on GP2 models, so am adding in Halo LEDs. For those who have not seen them they are LED rings that you get in a size to fit nicely around the projector lens. They are universal and powered from a 12V power supply. Each "set" is of two halos, so I will have two sets, one for each side so each xenon projector has a respective halo DRL around it. I'll need to run the wires though and am thinking where best to take the power from.

I will most likely use a piggyback fuse from the engine bay fuse box (I am right that there's a fuse box in there aren't I? Not needed to access it before). Due to UK laws however I need to ensure they turn on and off at the right times. They will need to turn on when the car is powered up which is easy, but they need to turn off when headlights are switched on, which is harder.

Really just looking for some insight here as to how I might do this as a simple piggyback off a power supply that's always on won't have them turn off with the main beams. From my understanding, side lights (city lights) need to be set to come on with the headlights, and are from factory of course, so I'm not sure if I could work something into the sidelights as it may be possible to have it so when the side lights come on the DRLs turn off. That way when turning on my headlights the side lights would come on and the DRLs would then come off.

Thanks in advance,

Guy


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

Good luck !!
You'll show me that then, it's interesting.


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