# new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues?



## WestwoodPA (Dec 1, 2005)

Hello, I am looking at a 1988 90 quattro, just wondering if someone could tell me what the main issues might be w/ these cars? I have enough general knowledge to do a basic inspection, just wondering what model-specific stuff there might be.
Are these tough, long lasting cars? Any serious AWD durabilty concerns? How about actual observed MPG? Thanks in advance for any help, I love these cars from a driving standpoint.










_Modified by WestwoodPA at 6:46 PM 12/2/2005_


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## billzcat1 (Sep 10, 2001)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (WestwoodPA)*

Most main issues result from neglect. Yes, it takes maintenance to keep and Audi happy.
Things to look out for - bad suspension rubber! Control arm bushings and upper strut mounts have a reputation for failure. Also, ball joint boots like to tear and whatnot with age. If you shop around, these parts are not terribly expensive. 
As much as this sounds like a self-promoting line of crap, it really is the truth: the shifter mechanisms are always junk after 15 years of driving. When I bought my 90, it had 3" of free vertical play! The original units are poorly designed, and my short shifter is cheaper and better. There are tons of people on this board alone who have one and love it.
Vacuum leaks are the bane of the CIS-3 system. Overall its quite reliable although not a great performing system. Injector O-rings, crankcase breather hoses, ISV tube, and throttle body boot are all suspects. Also, there's a few misc vacuum lines that can cause problems as well.
Misc electrical problems always come with the cars. Nothing major usually, just backlighting, coolant temp gauge, and seat heaters. Sometimes the sedans crack wiring at the trunk. The odometers like to fail as well.
Lifters are always bad. It's very rare to hear a quiet 10v. I had some poor, erratic running issues and very ticky lifters and replacing them fixed everything and made it a very smooth runner. I installed a Blausport 272 cam shortly after doing the lifters and I say it is a MUST HAVE for this engine. No loss of low end, very good idle, and a modest amount more top end - it no longer falls on its face at 3800 rpm but rather pulls right to 5500 or so with ease.
They are extremely tough cars. It's hard to get an actual mechanical failure. It's always a supplemental system that puts the car off the road. Many cars see 200K+ on the original clutch and 300K+ is doable on the original engine without so much as a valve job.
The AWD system is bulletproof. The weakest link is the rear diff mounts. If you are handy with tools and interested in doing the job yourself, you can do it for $40 in parts, but be sure to ask about it first so I can steer you in the right direction for the parts. 
My actual observed MPG: 27.1 mpg on the last tank. I have about 230,000 miles on the original engine (failed odo for a while) and that tank was pretty average mix of city and highway. Also included a climb up Stevens Pass in the snow. My previous tank was 26.4 mpg and that involved a couple trips to downtown Seattle and sitting in the parking lot during rush hour (I mean I5!). My engine also has a Blausport 272 cam installed and passed emissions easily. When I drove the car back from California I was getting 35 freeway mpg at 75 mph on cruise control. It seems that my mileage is a little higher than most, but it is definetly doable. I don't drive like a grandma, either. I also run premium gas, since at this mileage the car is running a little lean. 
Anyway, if there's anything you ever want to do, chances are I've done it to a B3. Ask and ye shall receive!


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## WestwoodPA (Dec 1, 2005)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (billzcat1)*

Thank you very much for your post! That is exactly the type of info that I was looking for. If anyone else has something to add, feel free. I have some experience w/ Bosch CIS so I both know what you speak of and feel capable of dealing w/ it. The only type of problem that would put me off is if the cars are known for electrical/electronic nightmares or some other major (and expensive) system failure. Good to hear about the AWD system.
Do most here run synthetic oil in these motors? Even w/ higher miles? Are they succeptible to leaks? Any particular seals that are known trouble spots? How about preferred trans and differential lubes? I suppose I could do a search for this info.
Thank you once again, Richard. If your reply is indicative of the quality of this board, I am very glad to be here! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 90quattro20v (Dec 8, 2003)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (WestwoodPA)*

I just wanted to tack on a second testimony to these cars. My 1991 (20v model) has 239xxx miles on it now. I'm still using the original clutch, and like Richard, I don't exactly drive like a frail old lady. So far I've had no problems with my quattro (and that was a concern for me also when I bought mine 2 years ago). I went out in an empty parking lot 2 days ago to slide around a bit in the snow, and the quattro did a pretty darn good job holding traction. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## billzcat1 (Sep 10, 2001)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (WestwoodPA)*

There are no major systems which ever have catastrophic failure. Little stuff pops up like power steering leaks and split engine stub mounts.
I don't run synthetic. I believe a medium-priced dino oil does the job just fine. People with ticky lifters and leaky valve stem seals run 20w-50. Once you toss new lifters in there, you'll find 10W-40 makes a good year round oil.
The only really leaky spot is the valve cover gasket. Much like every other VAG product, they came leaking at the dealer in 1988, and the replacements don't seem to be any better 15+ years later. The other seals like front main and cam seal are maintenance items during timing belt change, and the rear main is to be done during a clutch job.
My preferred diff lube is Redline 75W90, always worked great for me. If you tranny is even a little bit tired, then stay away from Redline for the transmission. The recommended Redline is MT90, but I found that in my 180,000 mile Coupe tranny it made cold shifts in 2nd and 3rd much worse. This was in temperatures below 50ºF. Redline is silky smooth in the summer but too thick for winter. Stick with the OEM fluid here. Sure, its more expensive at $22/liter (compared to $6/liter), but its really the best if you have tired synchros and cold temperatures. Also, you only have to change it once, and if a $50 difference for some one-time maintenance is out of the question, then maybe so is owning an aging Audi!








This board is great for medium-grade tech questions. We have a low signal:noise ratio and a good format, unlike Audiworld. Audiworld can't be beat for sheer volume of info and posters, but I don't like the general attitude there and certainly don't get along with the format. If you start getting interested in mods/engine swaps, be sure to mosey on over to Motorgeek.com where we have most every swap/mod you can imagine either finished or in progress.


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## delta v (Jun 8, 2001)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (billzcat1)*

If you feel like your getting low milage, make sure to change the oxygen sensor. Its a bit of a pain--you need a 22mm offset wrench to get to it, but its worth it: I jumped from averaging mid 21s mpg to 25+ when I changed mine (I also have a slight lead foot problem...)
Otherwise, they rock--I was driving in the snow to go play some snow football today, following my friend in a Grand Cherokee. His tires were spinning like mad trying to pull away from stop signs...quattro + snow tires (blizzaks) pulled away like it was a sunny mid summer day.


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## billzcat1 (Sep 10, 2001)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (delta v)*

Hehehe I pulled on a Porsche Cayenne last night in about 2" of extremely fresh stuff...and I have the worst tires on earth! We're having a snowy winter here in WA so snow tires are on the way! Sure there was slippage but snow + 2nd gear starts + blau cam = happy 10v! PS I still absolutely love that cam.








I've done the O2 sensor on the 20v and I just needed a standard 22mm wrench. Haven't tackled it on the 10v yet but it seems doable.


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## Action Jackson (Nov 20, 2001)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (billzcat1)*

Quick question - sorry to hijack
Comparing the B3 to the B4 90's - I known the B4 has a lot more room in the back seat, but I'm actually interested in handling aspects. I think the B3 is lighter correct? If I'm loking for an inexpensive AWD car that is a blast to toss around which one would fit my expectations?
Thanks all!


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## billzcat1 (Sep 10, 2001)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (Action Jackson)*

Not really a hijack!
B4s are definetly heavier. Those start at around 3400 lbs, whereas a low-optioned 80 quattro starts at a little over 2800lbs. A late built CoupeQ will still tip the scales at about 3300lbs, plus the sedan has a stiffer chassis, so a sedan will definetly be more tossable than a Coupe.
The B4 and B3 have basically the same front suspension, with a revision to forged control arms with larger diameter control arm bushings in the B3, mid-90 build. The B4 has a "better" rear suspension by means of a dual wishbone setup virtually identical to the A4 quattro.
Aftermarket suspension options are about the same for each. The B4 can accept A4q rear sway bars while the B3 can take a 22 or 26mm OEM front bar retrofit to the rear rather easily (see FAQ for my write up on the process). Springs, struts, and coilovers are available for both but not in great numbers. The B3s are much more receptive to engine swaps (10v and 20v turbo engines). There are very few bolt-ons for the 2.8L 12v found in the B4.


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## WestwoodPA (Dec 1, 2005)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (billzcat1)*

I'm guessing that a B4 is the V-6 car starting in ~93(?) Is there a FAQ that I should be looking at somewhere?








Also, what is the difference between an 80 and 90 quattro in '88 or '89? Don't they both have 5 cylinders? TIA.


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## Action Jackson (Nov 20, 2001)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (WestwoodPA)*

As far as I understand, the 80 and 90 are esentially the same car but the model number signifies trim level. The 90 is a higher trim as beleive. Please correct me if I have mistaken the naming convention. Truthfully I have not paid much attention to the differences because there are not many 80's in Canada. I'm not sure when they stopped selling or if they were even sold here.


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## billzcat1 (Sep 10, 2001)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (Action Jackson)*

Exactly. In 88 and 89, the 80 quattro and 90 quattro were the same car in different trim levels. 80s have different taillights, a different rear spoiler, and often unpainted bumpers. There are a variety of other trim options which seem to vary by individual car - there are 80s with leather seats and 90s with cloth, even though the 90 was a higher trim level.
For 1990 and 1991, the 80q continued to have the 10v I5 (130hp) while the 90 got the 20v I5 (164hp). The 90 was left out of the 1992 model year but the 80 continued on with the 10v. 
The 80 FWD during this period was equipped with the 2.0L 8v 4-cyl (108hp). The 90 FWD was equipped with the 130 hp 10v, except for the rarely seen 90 FWD 3-speed auto which was a 2.0L 8v, and this is considered the least desirable of the B3s - smallest engine, 3-speed auto, and with all the luxury options. 
In 1993, the B4 took over and all models in North America were equipped with the 2.8 12v. They were all called 90, but 90S was to denote the previous trim level offered with the 80 and the 90CS was higher trim level previously called 90. In the rest of the world, the B4 was only called an 80. It gets confusing. They're all fundamentally similar regardless of engine.


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## scotty33 (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (billzcat1)*

Only thing I can add, is that the handbrake mech can fail, which means new caliper(s) and the heater control for windshield/dashvents/floor also can get stuck. 
I was really surprised to find that the lifters can be repaired:-
http://www.clubgti.com/forum/f...91268


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## billzcat1 (Sep 10, 2001)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (scotty33)*

Seems like a lot of work for a $10 part. If you have "the hookup" they can be found as low as $5 each. Good article tho and if you're really trying to pinch every penny it would certainly help.


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## WestwoodPA (Dec 1, 2005)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (billzcat1)*

[/QUOTE]
_Quote, originally posted by *billzcat1* »_ 
For 1990 and 1991, the 80q continued to have the 10v I5 (130hp) while the 90 got the 20v I5 (164hp). 

So is the 20V the one to own? Or are there any downsides/trade-offs w/ that motor vs. the 10V? Thanks again for all of the help, guys. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## delta v (Jun 8, 2001)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (billzcat1)*

Billz, you like your blausport cam alot, apparently?
Ive been thinking of getting it, but have heard some differing opinions on it...nothing bad, but some comments said its not really worth it, at least without any other work. Did you do anything to the intake or exhaust?








Edit: as to the 20v vs. 10v issue, the 20v's are an interference motor, so if your timing belt goes, so does your head. Additionally, the injectors are special just for the 20v, and are very expensive to replace (do a search in here on injectors--theres alot of reading on them, and potential replacements). Also, the 20v is alittle less torque-y than the 10v, so you need to rev it a bit more to get power out of it. Still, I dont think Ive ever really heard anyone complain about the 20v's--I personally would have jumped on either, except that I fount my 80q (with quattro script interior, and in Lago Metallic, which really excited me) first.


_Modified by delta v at 1:08 PM 12/4/2005_


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## scotty33 (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (WestwoodPA)*

The 20v produces more torque than the 10v, but it does it at higher revs. At low revs the 10v is much better. This means the 20v is heavy on fuel until you get to cruising speeds, not brilliant then! 
My coupe 20v is 2wd, gives 24-26mpg on my 12 mile commute to work, gives approx 34mpg at 70-75mph. these are Imperial gallons 4.54l, also the quattros are 2-3 mpg worse than 2wd. 
You should have a good long test drive, if buying a 20v, they are quite gutless below 4000rpm, on the flip side, they are very lively above 4500, just be sure that's what you want.
re the lifters, posted it cause its interesting and could be useful to some. Wish our parts were as cheap here! I still think it would be worthwhile for 16v (or more) owners. Could do them in a couple of hours?


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## WestwoodPA (Dec 1, 2005)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (scotty33)*

Good info. Keep it coming! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## billzcat1 (Sep 10, 2001)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (delta v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *delta v* »_Billz, you like your blausport cam alot, apparently?
Ive been thinking of getting it, but have heard some differing opinions on it...nothing bad, but some comments said its not really worth it, at least without any other work. Did you do anything to the intake or exhaust?










Other than some of the much-needed maintenance like tune-up, air filter, lifters, and vacuum pump delete, my engine is bone stock. I wasn't planning on doing the cam either but one turned up on Audifans for $70 and I couldn't pass it up at that price. Since I had just recently done the timing belt and lifters, I had the job down to a little over an hour for the cam install. Definetly worth it at that price! There's not much to be done to the intake of a CIS car besides a K&N panel filter. I've thought about building an exhaust, but the one I've got is in great shape and its hard to rationalize that much work on a car I'm trying very hard to keep from being a project car.
As for the 10v vs. 20v thing - I'm going to echo a little here - the 10v makes more torque down low and is easier to drive if you are economy minded. It pulls right off idle to 4000 rpm and then falls off a bit. It seems that it only takes very minimal throttle input to maintain speed compared to the 20v. More torque at part throttle for sure. The 20v makes more peak torque, and actually does surpass the 10v torque curve at a pretty low rpm, but the sensation at 4-6k makes the 1-4k range seem really slow. The 10v is more fun to just drive around town and do things in, IMO. The 20v is less reliable thanks to the funky Hitachi MPI injection. My 90q 10v is averaging 26-27 mpg on our measly US gallons (3.89L) whereas my Coupe Q 20v averaged 20-23 mpg and I did quite a bit of highway driving. I could never get over 400 miles on a tank with the CQ but with the 90q I just passed 420 miles with ease








Granted, the 20v is slightly more mod friendly and it is a great starting point if you want to build a sweet hybrid turbo inline-5. The 10v "NG" motor is usually deep-sixed when it comes time for an engine swap. Actually, the NG 10v block plus the 7A 20v head makes for a turbo friendly low-compression bottom end capable of 300 whp+.
I love the 20v, but I was glad I got a 10v for my daily driver. It's easy to drive, much easier to work on, and gets the job done on the cheap. A good friend of mine is selling a 90q 20v in California - I'll put you two in touch if that interests you.










_Modified by billzcat1 at 4:50 PM 12/23/2005_


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## WestwoodPA (Dec 1, 2005)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (billzcat1)*

Thanks, I might be interested in the 90 quattro in CA. depending on the details, (price/colors/miles/etc..), can you message me through this board?
The 10V model does seem to have some advantages as I'd suspected. As was often the case w/ multi-cam and/or valve iterations of inline motors in those days, there seems to have been a trade-off of low-end grunt and long-term durability. It was the case w/ Volvo, VW, and others. The 2V per cylinder model is a cockroach, (withstands a nuclear blast w/o regular oil changes), while the DOHC model is not.








Just for a little background, I worked at the dealer when these cars were new, (mid-late '80s), hence my screen name which means Westwood Porsche/Audi. It no longer exists, or rather it was bought by BH P/A and is now their service center. I was in sales, but i am a pretty active amateur mechanic who has always worked on cars and bikes. Until recently I had a 911 that I did extensive work on and tracked here in CA., and I am active on the Porsche BBSes.
My financial situation has changed and frankly I am looking at old Audis because they are unbelievably cheap to buy, the used car market in general does not respect them but I know that they are good cars and fairly easy to work on. (At least the N/A 5 cylinder cars). I remember distinctly when the 80/90 series debuted in 1988 M.Y. and how impressed I was with them. They were very solid and quiet w/ decent performance, and good-looking as well IMO. I recently tripped over a crack on the sidewalk and fell into a 4000Q for basically free, all it needed was a $40 clutch slave cylinder. Of course this got me thinkng; why settle for a free 4000 when I can upgrade for next to nothing?








There is an '88 90Q that looks OK on ebay that ends this afternoon for less than the cost of a brake job on a new car at the dealer. (Too bad it's in NH or I would be on it like the proverbial "hobo on a ham sandwich"). 
I don't mind doing my own repairs and maintenence within reason, and I really like these cars, so here I am. This is a quality board! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## scotty33 (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (WestwoodPA)*

I would disagree about the reliability of 20v vs 10v. You seem to be under the impression the 20v is fragile. This is not the case. They do rev higher, but they do cope ok with the abuse. Under piston oil jets
and some better con rod material help here. See what state of tune they cope with over on motorgeek, these engines both 10 and 20v are 
definitely overengineered


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## billzcat1 (Sep 10, 2001)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (scotty33)*

And I would continue to support my assertion that 20vs are less reliable than 10vs. People too often confuse "durability" with "reliability". ALL Audi I5s are ridiculously durable, but the ancillary parts and fuel injection of the 20v lends it to more frequent, more confusing, and more expensive repairs.


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## scotty33 (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (billzcat1)*

Could not argue with that, I find that the brakes, cv's wheel bearings are all beefed up compared to a 10v, = more $$$! And the hitachi mpi
I find reliable, and easy to interrogate, but it is not great from a hp point of view, and it is more complex so potentially expensive to repair.


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## apavlov (Dec 4, 2005)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (billzcat1)*

Wow, this is better than the sticky FAQ.


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## Rob C (Jun 19, 2001)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (apavlov)*

Maybe it should be added... hint, hint....


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (Rob C)*

Yup, aded...but I'd LOVE it if someone would write up a more formalized "Buyers Guide" for the 80/90...


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## Rob C (Jun 19, 2001)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (DUandCC)*

Thanks! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Coupe5 (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (billzcat1)*

i Have a clunk coming from i think my rear diff when i shift, the harder the louder. I am thinking that the mounts are worn and i know my way around cars and wondering what parts i need and were can i get them. 
Thanks 
Derek


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## phillycheese (Sep 1, 2002)

some great info here! I too am in the market for a new car and really like the 90, but after reading this I need to do some thinking.
I currently have a '86 VW Quantum sedan with a I5, does this happen t be same block as in the 90? There is even a audi symbol on the valve cover.


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## Blue.Slow (Aug 4, 2005)

*Re: (phillycheese)*

Hey guys i dont want to thread jack but i found a 1991 audi 80 for sale i dont know if its quatrro but if it isnt im disinterested. The guy wants 2600 is that pricey?


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

*Re: (phillycheese)*


_Quote, originally posted by *phillycheese* »_
I currently have a '86 VW Quantum sedan with a I5, does this happen t be same block as in the 90? There is even a audi symbol on the valve cover.

No, not the same. Your Quantum is pretty much an Audi 4000 that is rebadged. The engine is a 2.2 ltr low compression/small valve K series (likely a KX) with a 8:1 CR. The 10v I5 in the Type 89 80/90 is an NG, that is a high compression/big valve 2.3 ltr.


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## asad (Oct 3, 2002)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (WestwoodPA)*

i may be purchasing an audi 90 quattro (1988)--2.3 5 cyl. it has 225k miles. they're asking 1500 usd. i wanna pay 1000 usd,maybe 1200. i haven't seen it yet except for fotos. he tells me there is a switch in the car that has to do with the awd drive system--it locks sometimes, or something like that. i didn't really understand what he meant by it bc i have not owned an audi or any awd car b4. i want to know what to look for when i go see it and when negotiating. oh yeah, he says the a/c is not working--it doesn't hold charge. if u can give me more info than what u already posted please share.


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## billzcat1 (Sep 10, 2001)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (asad)*

I'd say your offer is fair.
The switch is in the center console by the handbrake. It engages a rear differential lock for starting on slippery surfaces or getting unstuck. It automatically disengages at 15mph, but by simply snipping a wire you can lock/unlock it regardless of speed. This comes in handy if you are say... ice racing or doing donuts in the ski resort parking lot or something.
AC not working? Imagine that its an 18 year old car.


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## asad (Oct 3, 2002)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (billzcat1)*

so, the owner of the car told me that when he uses the rear differential lock it stays locked for about 15 minutes. is there a remedy for this? i don't want to assume what you wrote about snipping a wire will fix this problem. if so, are you saying by snipping wires it will remedy the problem. and may you explain in more detail what that snipping job will do? i haven't bought the car yet, but i want to know b/c i'm new to the audi scene. thanks.


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## billzcat1 (Sep 10, 2001)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (asad)*

Chances are the differential lock mechanism is stuck or the vacuum lines leading there are cracked. Both very common problems.
The snipping wire thing is to allow the differential to stay locked above 15mph, which is often handy when getting moving or getting unstuck in the snow. If you leave it alone, then it will automatically unlock at 15 mph.


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## ratquat (Feb 25, 2006)

yes the automatic central diff disengage mechanism came out first on the b3 chassis to prevent people from leaving it on and ruining drivetrain


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## billzcat1 (Sep 10, 2001)

*Re: (ratquat)*

Actually it was less a measure of saving the drivetrain and more about safety. Unless you are specifically driving in a manner to get sideways, the locked rear differential promotes understeer under most driving conditions.


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## jmaz32 (May 10, 2007)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (billzcat1)*

Billzcat1, I think I'm having the same type of problem you described on your post. Loud lifters, I'm assuming that's the ticking noise I'm hearing. I'm also getting a rough idle when I first start it up, acts as if it wants to stall, then it finally regulates itself just under 1000 RPM's with a real mild idle pitch. (More like a flutter) Not to mention my engine temp light flashes all the time. It's a 1991 80 Q, what do you recommend?


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## srvfan84 (Jun 23, 2006)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (jmaz32)*

As far as durability goes for the 10V and 20Vs, how do they compare to the VW 1.8 engines?


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## scotty33 (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (srvfan84)*

Sorry, long time passed since this was asked. The durability is basically the same as the VW 4 cyl equivalents mechanically. 
The later 8v VW and the 20v Audi have EFI, on the Audi this seems to be considered a weak point. (see the other sticky about injector conversion)


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## fidelity101 (Jan 8, 2008)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (scotty33)*

this thread is filled with great info but I'm going to be looking at a 94 90 quattro sport for 4000 ( a bit much for me but we'll see how much I get it for tomorrow) but there isn't much on the 2.8 v6 here, its mostly 5cly discussion.


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## OGSN0 (Oct 4, 2004)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (fidelity101)*

How will driving with the rear diff lock damage the drivetrain?
(the rear diff lock locks the Left & Right rear wheels together correct?)


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## deviant666 (Feb 16, 2009)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (OGSN0)*

New guy here, I would first like to say the forum is great and just cram packed of great info.
Tomorrow Im picking up a 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20v (4dr) , so I have a few questions if you dont mind.
General Questions.
1: There is a slight oil leak ( no puddles but its on the front & bottom of the motor ) , so what should I look at first? ( IE most common oil leak areas.. pan, valve cover, ect..? )
2: I had read in this topic that noisy lifters are almost the norm which is some what good to hear because this one has a slight tick of its own. So what is the "norm" cause of the noisy lifters? (just sticky do to build up or do they like to just go out?)
Performance Questions.
3: Every motor has a sweet spot, so if you had to pick 1 aftermarket item that gave you the biggest bang for your buck with the 20v what was it? (IE: Intake, exhaust, plugs, wires, injectors,ect..?)
4: Brands, what brand plugs, wires, cap, ect.... do you recommend? Ive owned some cars where you couldint tell the diff between a $10 set of wires from a $50 set, Im guessing Audi's are picky SOBs... are they?
5: I know this is a big jump from the other questions but hay Im a big turbo fan







I know that there are other 1990 20v motors that are turbo, so does that mean I can do a exhaust & intake manifold swap (and the other turbo parts of course ) and call it good?
Exterior Questions.
6: Wheels, Im not a fan of the BBS wheels so Im wondering if anyone knows of a good "junk yard" find with the 4x120 lug pattern and right off set in say a 16" ?
Sorry for shooting in here at 1000mph asking all these questions, I just hate being out of the know. I had spent MANY years working with datsun 510's , and learning all the tricks to the trade and now I feel all out of place walking into the audi world.
Thanks again,
Paul G.


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## JettaSTR4 (Jan 7, 2003)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (deviant666)*

first of all, the wheel bolt pattern is 4x108. 
you can look into a 10VT or 20VT swap, its well documented on the web
ticks can be the lifters but could also be the vacuum pump check it (not sure if the 20V has the vac pump)
valve covers leak like a sieve


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## SC_09iduA (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: new member questions; 1988 90 quattro issues? (JettaSTR4)*

Is there any attributes the 12v has over the other motors?! Besides the fact the 20v turbo could be prone to problems and the VCs leaking so much on those I5s...? I currently am picking up the 12v and all I see that people do with these are get an open element air filter...is that what these motors are limited to?


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## gbtr6 (Feb 19, 2006)

*Audi 90 fwd Axle replace*

Hi, 

Noticed your post in regards to general faq's and wondered if you have any advice, pics, guide, on replacing a front axle on the 90? I did the timing belt from a diy on here and it was pretty easy. Need to replace passenger side axle. Also, any help on the bushings for rear, and struts. 

Thanks, 
Perry


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## angling (Oct 9, 2010)

*need to do my first oil change soon*

Need to do an oil change on my 10v as she is finally on the road  
I read and read and all i found was no need of synthetic 20W-50 will do the job as i am sure the original owner haven't change the lifters (for 20+ years he put 186 XXX km on it). 
That just seems a bit thick to me(for canada especially) coming from a turbo saab that i ran 0w-40 mobil1. 
So what do you guys think should i run in the car? 
thanks


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## GVZBORA (Nov 13, 2008)

Alright guys I am picking up a 93 90cs tomorrow with the 12v V6. I was just wondering if there is anything you could do to these cars? Also would like to know which parts are compatible from other models?:beer:


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## Booha1 (Apr 6, 2007)

GVZBORA said:


> Alright guys I am picking up a 93 90cs tomorrow with the 12v V6. I was just wondering if there is anything you could do to these cars? Also would like to know which parts are compatible from other models?:beer:


This forum doesn't get a whole lot of traffic (as I'm sure you figured out). You may have more luck with finding info on 12v.org site. I know they have a lot of info on mods and upgrades for your engine there.


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## scotty33 (Aug 12, 2005)

It seems the 12v was never really popular for tuning. There have been supercharger and turbo conversions done. but to be honest there is a 30v tt in the later cars that would probably make more sense. 
If that seems a little over the top conventional tuning of MAF sensor housing, Throttle body and cylinder head work will give good results. The early AAH engine has slightly 'wilder' cam profile. The later AFC engine has smaller 6mm valve stems so flows a little better in stock form. AFC lifters are lighter in weight. 
There are a few ECU types used depending on year, only the early version with the Hitachi MMS200 processor can be chipped. This can be swapped into cars that use the MMS300 processor. 
034efi offer this, with their big bore MAF sensor gives approx 12whp iirc


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