# Charge Pipe (Turbo outlet to pancake) - Safe to use sealer??



## liquide (May 20, 2006)

This forum's been nothing but helpful to myself in the 5-6 years I've been browsing http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I've never had to ask a question as everything seems to be there when I've searched







however....
I have a problem with the pipe shown here, the seemingly infamous turbo outlet to pancake connecting pipe
















The top pic is of the new revised part I have recently bought. 06A 145 790 *C* (the revision on my car is A) - engine is AUM (Ko3s / VVT) not sure which US spec engine this is








I have tried different o-rings
N 901 368 02 Grey rubbery one, looked like a tstat seal but too large diameter to seal properly
1j0 145 117L (green one, same as fitted to the new pipe I bought)
I have tried silicone hose round the joint clamped with a worm gear clamp.
None seem to work, I'm still blowing from there, fuel trims are 0.4% and -16.4% just 10 miles after re-setting. I have the Forge boost hoses, all connections are tight. I also have a checkvalve under the mani before the PCV. Most vac lines are replaced recently. I believe it's this pipe as everytime I check, it's loose, and is coated in oil film...
Hope there's enough info there - I'm going to fit the new pipe in the next few days but I want it to work this time, my question is: 
Can I use a bead of sealer like these, to eliminate any blow that gets past the o-ring??
High temp RTV:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayI...h=024
or Permatex Liquid Metal 
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayI...h=015
round the base of the charge pipe neck, below the o-ring - is this safe / good idea / anyone else done something similar?? 
Thanks in advance for any help








Pat
edit: I had spoken to Forge about a replacement for this pipe as I had seen that they were developing one, but they tell me that now this is not happening








_Modified by liquide at 12:20 PM 2-2-2008_ 


_Modified by liquide at 12:22 PM 2-2-2008_


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## inivid (Aug 25, 2003)

*Re: Charge Pipe (Turbo outlet to pancake) - Safe to use sealer?? (liquide)*

dunno 'bout using any sealer. i've been thinking about having a one-piece done up for mine. that way, there's only two silicone pieces...a 90* off the turbo and the straight shorty for my bfsmic.


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## burtondk12 (Mar 20, 2006)

i had a problem with mine to. newer ones have different clamps there if im not mistaken., ill take some pics tomorrow of mine


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

*Re: Charge Pipe (Turbo outlet to pancake) - Safe to use sealer?? (liquide)*

I think I'd cut off the expanded part on the steel pipe and use a silicone reducer hose with two T clamps.


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## liquide (May 20, 2006)

*Re: Charge Pipe (Chickenman35)*

thanks for the input guys http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Chickenman I think your idea may well be the way to go to a permanent fix







I must have been under the car countless times just to re-clip the thing together







I guess removing the outlet hardpipe is just a case of unbolting the 4 bolts and remove from above?
burtondk12 if you could get a pic of yours, if it's a different style clamp too that'd be awesome








many thanks, Pat


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## MNShortBus (Mar 14, 2008)

*Re: Charge Pipe (Turbo outlet to pancake) - Safe to use sealer?? (liquide)*

bump

I seem to have kind of the same problem. except the problem I have isnt with the o ring leaking, but where the pancake pipe connects. It keeps blowing off under boost, and I have to limp my car home. Also, I don't have the pancake pipe anymore because of my FMIC. 
Is there a fix for this? What have some of you done?


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

*Re: Charge Pipe (vdubber#3555)*

My 2000 fwd TT doesnt have that connection. It actually has a normal pipe connection with a lip. Have no idea why the used that over a normal approach. Someone have a great fix in the archives, ill post the link if i can find it


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

*Re: Charge Pipe (cincyTT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *myk3* »_i removed the charger pipe put the elbow in a bucket of water and blew some pressure in, it bubbled from the crappy connection, and this is with the O ring in place and teflon tape wrapped round.
what i did was took the rubber hose from the O ring conenction, there is a metal lip crimped around it at the top where it snaps on to the socket.
with mole grips keep pulling at the ring and aventually it will rip, keep pulling it untill all the metal on the out side of is gone. then with grips grip the top rim then the metal ring will peel from the hose. you will be then left with a 100% rubber hose.
grind/cut the metal socket off just round the line where the socket gets narrower to the main pipe.
file the metal pipe and make a lip with a hammer to secure the hose better.
take a hose joiner and a solicone sleeve, use these 3 parts to replace the O ring and socket connection. see pics below:
































if you want i think you can replace the s bend standard hose with a 90 degree and a 45 degree hose clamped with a hose joiner.
i would advise this mod, with the O ring and teflon tape i could still make air escape from blowing in to it. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## MNShortBus (Mar 14, 2008)

*Re: Charge Pipe (Turbo outlet to pancake) - Safe to use sealer?? (liquide)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Thanks a bunch!
I think im going to replace the whole S bend pipe, and just fab something together. 
Another question... What is the diameter of the metal, and S bend pipe? 2.5?


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

*Re: Charge Pipe (vdubber#3555)*

its 2" and the ic inlet/outlets are 2.5"


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## awb17x (Jun 20, 2008)

*Re: Charge Pipe (cincyTT)*

What is the part number for that because mine was rubbing on my axle forever and im worried its going to have a hole in it soon


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## dlsolo (Sep 6, 2004)

oh man! that is where my boost leak is coming from. 
I was thinking about seeing if someone could fab me a replacement one piece pipe.


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## harry_the_cake (Sep 30, 2001)

*Re: Charge Pipe (Turbo outlet to pancake) - Safe to use sealer?? (liquide)*

Here's a picture of the early pipe as fitted to my 1998 A3.








Early cars had these. Part number 06A 145 731 D
Early rubber pipe to connect it to the pancake pipe is 06A 145 790


_Modified by harry_the_cake at 10:43 AM 8-28-2008_


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

^ thats what i have and was discribing. stupid they replaced those


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## Nevaeh_Speed (Jul 9, 2004)

I was having a problem with the same hose blowing off with stock boost, so I went front mount to get ride of the probelm.


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## wreckedmyteg (Mar 23, 2006)

*Re: (Nevaeh_Speed)*

Bumb to add to my watch list.


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## dlsolo (Sep 6, 2004)

I have a FMIC but it retains the use of that pipe. It may be time to head to a muffler shop and see if they can fab me something.


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## alomI wolleY iTG (Dec 7, 2003)

*Re: Charge Pipe (Turbo outlet to pancake) - Safe to use sealer?? (liquide)*

several folks have asked for a one-piece replacement from SMIC to the turbo (or something similar) and no one has come forth with anything solid.
forge also told me the product is in development but then again that was roughly 2 years ago and then i followed up roughly 1 year ago, so go figure.
i'm not sure why APR, Samco, and others have not caught onto the demand for such a piece.

BTW, oil somehow comes out this area in my car.


_Modified by alomI wolleY iTG at 1:23 PM 8-28-2008_


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## dlsolo (Sep 6, 2004)

And I swear I had read somewhere or a newsletter I got from Forge or someone, saying that there was a replacement hose that would fix that ongoing issue.
Calling my local muffler shop now.


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## dlsolo (Sep 6, 2004)

looking at the forge motorsports website, I think they may have something that could work. Just don't know if I wanna spend 180 bucks on it to try out.


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## G60JET (Jul 20, 2003)

*Re: Charge Pipe (Chickenman35)*

can someone tell me what hardware i need to purchase to do this fix? diameter of pipe and coupling please


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## aprwolfsburg (Oct 25, 2006)

*Re: Charge Pipe (G60JET)*

just got a leak last night. i thing thats my problem too @ 106k miles its bound to be leaking


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## Seth-VDub.GLI (Feb 15, 2006)

*Re: Charge Pipe (aprwolfsburg)*

Mine went out last week too...wore the little tabs right off the metal part on the hose! I just got a used one on here for $25 shipped. Hopefully it lasts awhile & I guess next time it goes out I'll fab something up.


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## Mk42003 (Jan 6, 2008)

*Re: Charge Pipe (Seth-VDub.GLI)*

here is another fix


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## liquide (May 20, 2006)

*Re: Charge Pipe (Mk42003)*

Hi all







I didn't realise this thread had some more replies.
I solved my problem









Firstly I had confirmation from Forge UK that they are not going to offer a replacement part for this connection, so I followed the same route as Mike (myk3)
---
I'd bought a second chargepipe from the 90° elbow on the turbo outlet down to the rubber hose (06A 145 790A) that connects to the pancake pipe 
I also bought a 57mm alloy hose joiner, a 57mm ID x 76mm length of silicon hose, and some Mikalor 63-68mm T bolts 









I cut off the metal ring on the OEM rubber pipe 








Inserted the hose joiner as far as I could into the rubber pipe (I soaked the pipe in very hot water for a few minutes beforehand to make it more pliable) 








Connected the silicone coupler 








and T-bolted it together. 








Then onto the metalwork. I ground off the flared end +10mm, and cut incisions at around 5mm so I could bend back and use as a 'bead' so that the coupler would stay firmly attached 








and finally, fixed it all together 








I also gave the metal pipe a bit of a polish with some Brasso wadding for the shiny factor and there it is fitted 








However, if I'd known the AGU used the type of chargepipe as posted by HTC above, I'd have done that instead


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## dlsolo (Sep 6, 2004)

*FV-QR*

WOW, that's exactly what I did. Well, I had a little coupler welded to the charge pipe. But besides that, took a 90 degree and a 45 degree silicone elbow, and made it work. So much quieter on that side of the engine and my idle is actually smoother.


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## ypsetihw (Nov 20, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (dlsolo)*

what diameter is the turbo outlet? What diameter did you both use for the silicon hoses/couplers etc.?


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## dlsolo (Sep 6, 2004)

*FV-QR*

my couplers were 2" and 2.5". my welded pipe piece was 2.5". I'm replacing it all with some custom piping next weekend. I want something more professional looking. Yeah, I'm weird...


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## misfit77 (Jan 13, 2006)

I dont have any pics to back me up and no one believes me, but the charge pipe in my 2000 (AWD engine) Golf does not have that funky O-ring setup. its all clamp in.
It might be possible to use an old charge pipe in a newer engine.


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## dlsolo (Sep 6, 2004)

*FV-QR*

Hmmm, I'm gonna have to check that out. It's worth the look.... thanks!


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## MNShortBus (Mar 14, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (dlsolo)*

Anyone else attempt this? 
I finished mine a while ago, but I'm just curious as to how others did it.


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## wreckedmyteg (Mar 23, 2006)

*Re: Charge Pipe (Mk42003)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Mk42003* »_here is another fix

































What size coupler is that, and did you cut the end off the hard pipe?


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## burkechrs1 (Dec 1, 2008)

i did that fix. i used a 2.75"to2.5" transition coupler. works like a charm


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## wreckedmyteg (Mar 23, 2006)

*Re: (burkechrs1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *burkechrs1* »_i did that fix. i used a 2.75"to2.5" transition coupler. works like a charm

Did you have to cut anything?
Did it fix the leak totally?
I always wondered if boost could leak through the metal end crimmped on.


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## burkechrs1 (Dec 1, 2008)

*Re: (wreckedmyteg)*

i had to grind the two nipples down for the c-clamp but that's it. so far it's working great. invest in some good quality clamps. i got 034 t-bolt clamps and that thing isn't going anywhere.


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## wreckedmyteg (Mar 23, 2006)

*Re: (burkechrs1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *burkechrs1* »_i had to grind the two nipples down for the c-clamp but that's it. so far it's working great. invest in some good quality clamps. i got 034 t-bolt clamps and that thing isn't going anywhere.

Did you use the c-clamp in addition to the coupler?


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## burkechrs1 (Dec 1, 2008)

*Re: (wreckedmyteg)*

no just the coupler with 2 t-bolt clamps. the couple slides over the metal part of both pieces...


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## wreckedmyteg (Mar 23, 2006)

*Re: (burkechrs1)*

Aren't you adding like an inch in length (the amount the metal part used to slide into).
It still fits?


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## burkechrs1 (Dec 1, 2008)

*Re: (wreckedmyteg)*

Yes it still fits. It takes a little bit of tweaking once it's installed but I managed to get mine on with no kinks in the system.


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## wreckedmyteg (Mar 23, 2006)

*Re: (burkechrs1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *burkechrs1* »_Yes it still fits. It takes a little bit of tweaking once it's installed but I managed to get mine on with no kinks in the system.

Money. I'm doing it. Seems like a cleaner solution then using the cut hardpipe - pipe joiner + silicone with 3 t-bolts method.


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## wreckedmyteg (Mar 23, 2006)

*Re: (wreckedmyteg)*

Well, ordered my 2.5 to 2.75 silicon coupler and t-bolt clamps so I can finally, hopefully fix my damn boost leak I've had for over a year now by doing this:








I really, really, really hope this works.


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## dckeener (Jan 10, 2005)

*Re: (wreckedmyteg)*

So I'm gonna be that guy and bring this back. Has anybody else used the method above (silicone reducer) with success? This seems like the most straight forward and cost effective fix for this problem.


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## l1t43 (Oct 27, 2005)

I'll be doing it on wedsnesday I think. I'm guessing thats where my boost leak is coming from


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## l1t43 (Oct 27, 2005)

Worked great so far. Easy install, maybe took me a half hour to do. No leaks as far as I can tell, i'll have to test it sometime though. I did the way with that spectre connector. You can get that same one at napa.


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## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

*Re: (l1t43)*

replaced the O-ring... so far so good
however, someone should make an upgraded O-ring for that area... something a little thicker since the connector on the pressure hose comes off the coupler on the hard pipe way too easy...


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## boriquais (Jun 25, 2005)

*Re: (l1t43)*

Hey guys im trying to do the coupler but i cant seem to find the right size locally. Does anybody have the napa part number? or know of a place i can order online that has decent shipping times. Im just trying to get this thing fixed ASAP. thanks!


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## McBee (Aug 11, 2006)

*Re: (boriquais)*


_Quote, originally posted by *boriquais* »_Hey guys im trying to do the coupler but i cant seem to find the right size locally. Does anybody have the napa part number? or know of a place i can order online that has decent shipping times. Im just trying to get this thing fixed ASAP. thanks!

Got mine here: http://www.siliconeintakes.com
Came to like $22 shipped for the coupler and 2 t-bolt clamps.


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## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

*Re: (McBee)*

why not just hack off the hard pipe coupler, weld on an extension with a beaded end, remove the coupler on the pressure hose, T-bolt both ends of the pressure hose... ala AWD hard charge pipe and pressure hose setup


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## vdubma (Dec 18, 2009)

*Re: Charge Pipe (Turbo outlet to pancake) - Safe to use sealer?? (liquide)*

im installing a FMIC right now....and i came to the hose that goes itnto the squash pipe....do i pull off the whole thing now that i have the front mount connected to the throttle body hose?


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: Charge Pipe (Turbo outlet to pancake) - Safe to use sealer?? (liquide)*

You are approaching it wrong.
I used the plain ETKA part # on my wifes stock 1.8T. It was a little big but you kind of tuck it in as you slide it in, let it soak in atf aas well so it expands some.
Get rid of htat stupid metal clip, my god that thing SUCKS and is the crappiest design.
Take a 3" stainless steel hoseclamp and put it around the lip on the rubber charge pipe and hold the pipe all the way deep in there while you tighten the hose clamp on.
I did this a month ago, and with good enigne mounts, we took the car cross country a few weeks ago to illinois and back, with 0 issues. 
The clamp will conform around the stupid retaining ring area that flares out and the lip, providing a positive lock! Use stainless and a quality clamp, so you can tighten it a bunch and never worry!
This will be your final solution until you need to replace the rubber when it finally breaks and leaks there. It is super reliable and the car has never felt better!


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## inivid (Aug 25, 2003)

So, I went to the dealership last Friday and ordered the AGU charge pipe and it arrived today!!! I just picked it up!!! Super stoked about it!!! It was €55, which was less than I was expecting. Going to try and make time to swap it out tonight. :thumbup:


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## inivid (Aug 25, 2003)

Ok. So just a quick update.... For those of you thinking that once you obtain an AGU hardpipe, you can simply remove the metal collar from the AWP rubber hose and use it, it's not long enough by about 1 to 2 inches. Just FYI. 

Stupid me will be going back to the dealership tomorrow to order the correct rubber hose. :banghead:


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## inivid (Aug 25, 2003)

SUCCESS! Ordered the the AGU hose from the local dealership yesterday and it came in this morning from Frankfurt. The AGU hard-pipe was €55, but the damned hose with heat-wrap was €70!!!!! Anyway, here's a pic of the AWP hose and AGU hose, side by side, laid on top of their respective heat-wraps, just as they line up when installed.

As you can see, the AWP hose (with the metal collar removed) is a different shape and slightly shorter. FYI: The AWP's metal collar only extends about 1/8" beyond the hose itself, when it's in-tact.









Bottom line, if you switch to the AGU hard-pipe, you must use an AGU hose (whether it's OEM or aftermarket). :beer:


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## alomI wolleY iTG (Dec 7, 2003)

Should of gave you the heads-up. Samco should be able to get the following from their contacts in Japan.

http://www.ishikawa-engineering.com/otherparts/s_a_t_h/golf790_v_g1.8.html


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## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

Awesome info. Looking to do this as well..


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## cri-cri (Sep 27, 2009)

alomI wolleY iTG said:


> Should of gave you the heads-up. Samco should be able to get the following from their contacts in Japan.
> 
> http://www.ishikawa-engineering.com/otherparts/s_a_t_h/golf790_v_g1.8.html


 Well, if only they responded to emails... 
Samco can't be bothered by email. I emailed two major samco retailers, no reply so far (it's been a week or so). I even emailed ishikawa-engineering but I don't expect any reply from them considering the nightmare they are going through right now. 
Any idea where I could find this silicone replacement ? Dealer price for the OEM hose is insane... for 120$ I'd rather get the samco bit.


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## Trackrocket (Nov 15, 2010)

WOW, would LOVE to buy the Samco solution, would that require the older type charge pipe?

I have a 20th AE and the "S" hose is pulling out of the metal coupler, causing a leak, I'll try and post a pic of that later.


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## pete6810 (Jul 28, 2010)

did any of you guys have the code P1297 (17705) b4 replacing this hose?? i have this code now and this hose 06a 145 790 is wet up by where the clip is and dry where it connects to the pancake pipe. 


any feedback is awesome 
thanks


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Still going strong on a plain hose clamp with a new seal years later.


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## pete6810 (Jul 28, 2010)

dogmonney------ did u ever hav a code pop up????


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

No codes, but I had a massive boost leak there and idle misfires from a slight vacuum leak when not in boost.


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## pete6810 (Jul 28, 2010)

hmm....right now after i drive my car will idle between 1000rpm-1200rpm. when i drive you can smell the exhaust in the cabin during acceleration. at the top of the hose (p/n 06a 145 790) where the clip is located is wet, at the bottom of the hose where it connects to the pancake pipe it is dry.... 

thank u


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## pete6810 (Jul 28, 2010)

idk how to get pictures on here but i do have pictures of the hose i am talkin about if there is anyway i could send them to u.


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## dococ (Feb 22, 2008)

cri-cri said:


> Well, if only they responded to emails...
> Samco can't be bothered by email. I emailed two major samco retailers, no reply so far (it's been a week or so). I even emailed ishikawa-engineering but I don't expect any reply from them considering the nightmare they are going through right now.
> Any idea where I could find this silicone replacement ? Dealer price for the OEM hose is insane... for 120$ I'd rather get the samco bit.


Any update on contact with Ishikawa??


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## cri-cri (Sep 27, 2009)

dococ said:


> Any update on contact with Ishikawa??


Well, no update and not waiting for an answer anymore. There was a huge leak down there so I bought a brand new AGU setup (hose + charge pipe)... $190 but the car has totally transformed !


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

FYI, eurojet makes the complete kit for $175
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--1.8T/Engine/Intake/Boost_Hoses/ES1892511/


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## Trackrocket (Nov 15, 2010)

FWIW, Eurojet seems to be SLOW as hell...or just backed up due to popularity? 

Their products on ECS are always "ETA..." - that setup is ETA August 12th.


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## krafty-max (Aug 14, 2010)

The reducer looks like the way to go, but for the time being mine is wrapped in "extreme tape" around the o-ring part... hasn't popped off in a long time but i suspect it has a leak there still.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> We have 1.8T Discharge Kits in stock, ready to ship. I'm not sure why ECS's site is showing Aug. 12th as an ETA, though.


I would get one, but I have to wait till monday to call now. I also want a TIP and boost hose kit. 









I replaced this bastard o-ring yesterday (had a small leak) and I still have a large boost drop off. Hits 13psi then bounces back to 8 and 10. With my ecs n75 it spikes to 15psi then very quickly drops to 8 and bounces between 8-10 and then stays at 10psi.

I have 125k on my stock hoses, I know the DV hose is seeping oil residue through it.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

FYI, I found a used AUG boost hose setup from a beetle on ebay $20 shipped. Hard pipe and rubber boost hose. 











Going to slap that biosh on this weekend along with my silicone TB hose and lower intercooler coupler. :thumbup:

I also emailed that jap company on the forge/ samco hose


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

FYI, I got in contact with that place in japan that sells the samco hose. 
$214 for that hose... cheaper if there is more than one ordered. 
Its a special hose made for samco

My name is Fumitaka of FT International, Inc. in Glendale, CA USA, the partner
and international agent of Ishikawa Engineering.

Here is the quotation for you.

Samco GOLF790: JPY11,550
Domestic Freight in Japan: JPY840
Shipping to US VIA EMS: JPY3,100
International Transaction Fee (PayPal Fee): JPY775
=========================================
TOTAL: JPY16,265 = US$214.00

If you order more than 1, you will save a lot because the domestic freight in Japan 
stays same (JPY840) up to certain amount... say like 5 pieces. Also saving the 
EMS charge to US as well.

You can pay through PayPal address of [email protected] and your order will be shipped
within a few days after your payment.

Please let me know if you would like to proceed and place an order.

Very best regards.

===========================
Fumitaka Sado
FT International, Inc.
510 N. Jackson St., Unit 102
Glendale, CA 91206 USA
Email: [email protected]


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## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

How much is the stock unit?


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## Trackrocket (Nov 15, 2010)

SlimJimmn, I might be interested in one, just finishing up a FT install and HATE that union...I sort of recall this thread but no time to read back this evening, is this the hose that would replace the stupid steel clip to O-ring union on the right side of the engine bay, a potential spot for a boost leak?


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

That hose is for the screw clamp style pipe only like I posted not the clip style hose. You would first need to buy a uaed setup and then this hose, but its cheaper to buy the eurojet kit for $205


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## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

Slimjimmn said:


> That hose is for the screw clamp style pipe only like I posted not the clip style hose. You would first need to buy a uaed setup and then this hose, but its cheaper to buy the eurojet kit for $205


EJ kit does not have that OEM fit and finish. I have one on the car now and want to get rid of it.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

Imola Yellow GTi said:


> EJ kit does not have that OEM fit and finish. I have one on the car now and want to get rid of it.


pix...

elaborate? the kit looks nice in the pictures they supply of the parts and installed


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## SimonJ65 (Dec 3, 2011)

There is now available a silicone hose replacement. It is is available from 034motorsport.com here;

http://www.034motorsport.com/engine...ke-tube-silicone-hose-18t-mk4-vw-p-22198.html

I emailed them back in August asking if they had them and was told if I could supply a sample hose they would produce them.

It needs the older type hard metal turbo outlet pipe that uses Jubilee clips.

My complimentary hose will be here soon.


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## TurboJOSH (Mar 30, 2009)

SimonJ65 said:


> My complimentary hose will be here soon.


Do you work for them?


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## SimonJ65 (Dec 3, 2011)

TurboJOSH said:


> Do you work for them?


No I don't work for them. As I said, I emailed them to ask if they made such a hose and they said if I could supply a sample they would consider producing them.


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## bootymac (Apr 19, 2005)

Proper link: http://www.034motorsport.com/engine...ke-tube-silicone-hose-18t-mk4-vw-p-22198.html

Not sure if it's been mentioned or not but my AWD has the rubber version of the above silicone hose. Part number should be 06A145790

The one on the right:


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## rex_racer (May 19, 2001)

Any idea what the part number for the older charge pipe is?


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## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

rex_racer said:


> Any idea what the part number for the older charge pipe is?


06A.145.731.D

Think that is it


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

I bought a used pipe from a beetle 1.8t AUG and it works fine. I see no reason to buy the 034 hose (other then the fact all my other hoses are silicone now accept cooling hoses):thumbup:


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## DasPassat (Nov 21, 2009)

OK, so on my passat, the issue is where these two pipes w/ the "metal collar" actually connect to the SMIC. That is where mine is loose. It's interesting, doesnt seem like anyone mentioned how to make it tight there in this thread... unless I am really missing something, which could be possible


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

usually I just slap on a new o-ring at the upper and lower hose. IF that doesnt fix it you might need to buy an ebay smic aftermarket and get hoses from a AEB engine.


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## scirockalot8v (Sep 16, 2006)

bringing this back from the dead again. just wondering if there are any new fixes for this. i plan on going with couple and cut method. just have to pick up the right stuff.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

Honestly get a Eurojet kit or find a 2000 beetle in a junk yard and get the oem hoses like I did.


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## AmIdYfReAk (Nov 8, 2006)

i took my late style one apart, Cleaned it, Drilled two holes, Put some Nylon tape around the Rubber Oring on the hose, Slipped it in and did a Rosette weld holding the two pieces together. 

Good enough do 25PSI all day, everyday.


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## Trackrocket (Nov 15, 2010)

Eurojet kit? 

Please direct me to said kit, first time I've heard of a kit to delete the pancake pipe/O-ring hose B.S. - I'm all ears!!

Thanks.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

Check back a few pages or go to eurojetracing.com


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

what's wrong w/ a $15 coupler and Tbolts? Why all this $$ to replace the whole pipe?


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## slimtim59 (May 14, 2014)

harry_the_cake said:


> Here's a picture of the early pipe as fitted to my 1998 A3.<p><IMG SRC="http://homepage.ntlworld.com/kevin.yeoman/IHI_VF34_Turbo_Conversion_120_640x480.jpg" BORDER="0"><p>Early cars had these. Part number 06A 145 731 D<p>Early rubber pipe to connect it to the pancake pipe is 06A 145 790<BR><BR>
> <i>Modified by harry_the_cake at 10:43 AM 8-28-2008</i>


 
i cant get that part number to come up on any parts sights is it a direct part from vw or do i have to get off and old wreck in the junk yard


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## focswagen (Jan 26, 2013)

Bumping this very helpful thread.

I ordered the 034motorsports silicone replacement for the AGU/early style pipe and am going to make it work with my late build/AWP pipe.

Hopefully that fixes my last constant boost leak once and for all.

- Drew


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## focswagen (Jan 26, 2013)

focswagen said:


> Bumping this very helpful thread.
> 
> I ordered the 034motorsports silicone replacement for the AGU/early style pipe and am going to make it work with my late build/AWP pipe.
> 
> ...


Took my AWP pipe to work, hacked off the bellmouth w/ clip connection and flared the remaining edge slightly to give the clamp something to bite. With the 034 hose being just slightly longer to reach the shorter AGU pipe, this should be a happy medium and give me a bit of wiggle room when fitting the hose to the lower pancake pipe(actually ABD racing replacement).

The hose just barely fits over it, between it and a quality clamp, should be a permanent fix.







- Drew


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## focswagen (Jan 26, 2013)

The pipe worked beautifully and I was able to track down the cause of my issue now that all the boost leaks were cured.

- Drew


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