# Water pump change How to?



## Hazard's Neon (Mar 30, 2005)

I am just getting my ears wet with my 2006 Jetta 2.5 and I need to change to water pump. I've changed water pumps before but I'm not familiar with my VW. Has anyone done a "How to" on changing the water pump? I've done a fair amount of searching but I couldn't find anything. Or could someone point me in the right direction? I am going to attempt it reguarless of help but I would just like to disassemble my car as little as I need. Thanks!


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## kungfoojesus (Jan 10, 2005)

You will need two jacks. First, one jack SUPPORTS the oil pan. Next, the second jack SUPPORTS the transmission. Do not punch a hole in these!!! Use a 2x4 or something to spread out the force of the jack!!!! Finally, remove the transmission mount and the engine mount over your accessory belt. 

Now that all this is done, CAREFULLY jack up the engine and lower the transmission. Twisting the engine just enough to get to the water pump, not an inch more!

I have no torque specs or any idea which bolts are stretch bolts. I do know the lower mount bolts need to be replaced and torqued to spec per the VW TSB pertaining to knocking under load. The bentley manual or other sources including the dealership will not give you the proper specs for this mount. Refer to the TSB on the lower engine mount for these specs!!!!

Good luck and I in no way take any responsibility for this repair. If you couldn't figure this much out on your own I would just take it in to the shop. If you take it to the shop find the TSB pertaining to the transmission mount torque specs and sympton "knocking under load". Otherwise they'll get the torque wrong too.

I did a quick google search for you and came up with this thread containing some pictures http://volkswagenownersclub.com/vw/showthread.php/21187-water-pump

Why does your car need a new water pump already? Have you messed with the coolant at all? Be advised, these motors need special coolant to avoid corrosion of dissimilar metals. You need a special silicate and phospate free coolant, not just a "universal" coolant. There is a big difference between these two. Running the wrong coolant will corrode your cylinder head and destroy the head gasket. Again, SILICATE AND PHOSPATE free. Zerex g-05 is what crysler uses, vw/audi uses gXX.... whatever. Just be certain that whatever you put back in there is the right stuff not just "universal" coolant.

The correct coolant is imperative and not just a gimmick. I have torn down vw's with ally cylinder heads before and seen the aftermath of the wrong coolant. Again, I'm not talking about "mixing" coolant. I'm talking about corrosion of dissimilar metals. The motor I tore down was thought to need a new head gasket but once we pulled the head looked like it had rusted from the inside out. The coolant passages themselves were heavily pitted and in some places destroyed.


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## Hazard's Neon (Mar 30, 2005)

Thanks for your help! That sound just like I've done before. Who knows, unless someone else has done it, when I do it this weekend I might even take pictures to help out my fellow newbies with this task.


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## Hazard's Neon (Mar 30, 2005)

I had my window open for a while, didn't update and I just caught your additions. We took it into our VW dealer for its oil change and they mentioned that it was leaking. In the 4ish years that we have had it any work under the hood, with the exception of one oil change, our VW dealer has done everything. I am aware of the VW specific coolant and will be buying one of the jugs when I purchase the water pump from VW.


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## Master_P (Feb 10, 2012)

I realize this thread is a couple of years old. It's the most germane link to replacing the water pump on a MKV 2.5L Jetta.

A user here claimed that it's possible to replace the coolant pump if the passenger headlight is removed. This could imply that it's unnecessary to remove both mounts and support the engine/tranny on separate floor jacks. I am wondering if anyone on this site can vouch for that process. I don't like the idea of removing both motor mounts and floating the engine/tranny on floor jacks for prolonged periods of time, and I don't want to rush my work.

Alternatively, I looked at this DIY thread for replacing the accessory belts, tensioners, and idler pulleys. While scrolling through the pictures, it appears that there _may_be barely enough room to remove the coolant pump, provided that all tensioners and idler pulleys are out.

Can anyone comment on whether there is clearance to replace the coolant pump, without having to remove both engine mounts?

Thanks!!


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## JettaMk5 (Aug 11, 2008)

Master_P said:


> I realize this thread is a couple of years old. It's the most germane link to replacing the water pump on a MKV 2.5L Jetta.
> 
> Can anyone comment on whether there is clearance to replace the coolant pump, without having to remove both engine mounts?
> 
> Thanks!!


It's under the intake manifold, but removing that takes a special tool or extensions and the right bit etc, good idea to do the intake O rings too. I wouldn't want to move the engine/transmission to do it either. Removing all of the pulleys and laying under the jacked up car and trying to wiggle it out seems like a PITA way to do it to me. I've never attempted it through the headlight, but _maybe_ it would fit through? You'd still need access to unhook the connections to the water pump which is not trivial with the intake and pump and hoses etc in the way. There may be a more "proper" answer, YMMV, etc etc

Good Luck!


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## Bora Jon (May 31, 2007)

JettaMk5 said:


> It's under the intake manifold, but removing that takes a special tool or extensions and the right bit etc, good idea to do the intake O rings too. I wouldn't want to move the engine/transmission to do it either. Removing all of the pulleys and laying under the jacked up car and trying to wiggle it out seems like a PITA way to do it to me. I've never attempted it through the headlight, but _maybe_ it would fit through? You'd still need access to unhook the connections to the water pump which is not trivial with the intake and pump and hoses etc in the way. There may be a more "proper" answer, YMMV, etc etc
> 
> Good Luck!


water pump is *NOT* under the manifold. it is near the motor mount and is externally belt driven. removing the headlight will probably take longer than just doing it with the wheel off, if you have patience and assorted short and long sockets for these hex and triple squares it should be doable. I did the tensioners in my car without removing any motor mounts, or extra bolts. that being said I didn't remove the water pump, but it is three bolts, every water pump I have done the most difficult part has been getting it out. the rest is pretty easy. the tensioner diy linked above shows the pulley for the water pump clearly in several shots


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## Master_P (Feb 10, 2012)

Bora Jon said:


> water pump is *NOT* under the manifold. it is near the motor mount and is externally belt driven. removing the headlight will probably take longer than just doing it with the wheel off, if you have patience and assorted short and long sockets for these hex and triple squares it should be doable. I did the tensioners in my car without removing any motor mounts, or extra bolts. that being said I didn't remove the water pump, but it is three bolts, every water pump I have done the most difficult part has been getting it out. the rest is pretty easy. the tensioner diy linked above shows the pulley for the water pump clearly in several shots


Correct. The water pump is adjacent to the passenger-side engine mount, and is belt driven.

I plan on replacing the serpentine belts, tensioners, and idler pulleys so I must remove the passenger wheel and inner fender well cover. I am skeptical if the water pump can come out through the wheel well, otherwise the Bentley manual would call for this as the standard process. This would be the easiest way to remove the pump if it was possible.

I am certain I can replace both serpentine belts, tensioners, and idler pulleys without removing the motor mount. Removing and installing the water pump is the problem. I need to know if there is enough room to pull the old pump out, and put the new pump in, with the motor mount in place. If so, what's the best way to do it?

My Jetta is coming up on 150,000 miles. This would be a preventative maintenance replacement. The internet is pretty sparse on details for this engine model/year.

Alternatively, I could just pull off the entire front end (bumper, radiator, and rad support), so I could swap out the thermostat. May as well pull everything off so it's super easy to work and see everything. Anyone find a good DIY for that?


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## Strictly4Boost (Feb 21, 2009)

Bumping an old Thread...


Is the transmission mount on the bottom of the transmission?

Looking forward into doing this next!!!! Thanks


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## Strictly4Boost (Feb 21, 2009)

Removed the battery tray and see the transmission mount that most likely needs to be removed.

Which engine mount bolts need to be replaced??? Also what are the torque specs??? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!


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## Strictly4Boost (Feb 21, 2009)

Did some deep searching... Looks like I found the bolts that need to be replaced and the torque.

Does anyone know why they need to be replaced?


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## Master_P (Feb 10, 2012)

They are TTY bolts. The first time they are torqued, they permanently deform and cannot recover their original clamping force with subsequent use.

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk


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## Al_Slade (May 22, 2015)

Here is a video where Charles aka Humble Mchanic and Paul from Deutsche Auto Parts give some tips for replacing the WP on the 2.5L. (first question answered) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcb0pHRFiU8.


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## Strictly4Boost (Feb 21, 2009)

Nice Video!

Over the weekend this is how I did the water pump.

I didn't have 2 hydraulic jacks, so I had to come up with some other idea.

Note: I also had the bottom belt off already because I already had passenger inner liner and wheel off. I think you could still remove the bottom belt without that stuff in the way.

First thing is first, If you're looking to do the same or similar way I did. (I am not responsible for what happens to you, or your vehicle, work at your own risk)

I raised vehicle and used 2 Jack stands. One on each side of the vehicle.

I started off with the transmission side and I used a wooden block, a factory Toyota jack, and a piece of 2x4. Once everything was together, I removed the bolts for the dog bone mount at the bottom of the car. Came back up, and removed battery, and battery tray. Now that you're at this point you could see the upper transmission mount. I believe they're 18 or 19mm bolts. Remove those two bolts. Now the transmission is laying on that jack.










For the engine side, I used my hydraulic jack, and two pieces of 2x4, underneath the oil pan next to the drain bolt. After that, I removed coolant reservoir (make sure u drain all coolant from engine and radiator), hoses, and removed the mount, and now the engine was resting on that side of the jack.










I lowered first the transmission by a little bit (1 full turn and half, maybe 2 full turns) The driver side i raised it a couple times.

I removed the upper belt, and I was able to take out the water pump.

When I took out the water pump, I think the seal was starting to leak.






































Cleaned up area and reinstalled with new water pump. I used a magnet to guide the bolt through.










You need time and patience. You can't have this job rushed as there is risks of engine or transmission falling or hurting yourself. The most difficult task was putting bolts back into engine and transmission mounts. The engine mount went into place pretty good, I used a prybar just to line it up. The transmission was a little tougher as you need to be at the level it was before and need to apply just a little pressure with the prybar. 

It was more difficult removing the intake manifold to do thermostat and oil filter housing gasket job then the water pump. Only reason, is because of the space and time you need.


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## Boomer Guy (Mar 26, 2021)

I just bought the parts for this job and the thermostat replacement, then had my local mechanic replace both of them. It used to be his car, so he is very familiar with it. I am so glad I made this choice. It was way above my skill level. The labor was expensive but his knowledge shaved hours off the total time. My car is a keeper and worth every cent of this maintenance investment. Besides, if I ever sell it (not likely) I have all my records of maintenance, parts and upgrades to it.


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