# Question: Empty tank after sitting - slow leak



## gettajetta13 (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi guys,

I have a few questions for you due to this being my first air ride experience.

Currently running Airlift/V2 with a single compressor, 5 gal skinny and a single water trap. I do all my own work but basically learned how air ride functions by removing it from a recently purchased b5 sedan and swapping it into my b5 v6 wagon. Things have been great aside from a few hiccups lately. 

1. Fuse blew the other day. No worries I air'd up enough and bought spares + thru spare line and bulkhead fittings in the car for emergency..just need spare relay and im set. 

2. (my real issue.) Got out to the car today and went to air up a lil to get out of my drive way. (parked: 70psi front / 40psi rear) airing up to (90psi front / 50psi rear).
My V2 controller gives me the error code "tank low". this was odd since I know I heard it fill before it was parked for the night. 
-Since the fuse blew last week I feel like its been taking a bit longer to fill the tank from air'd out to a drive height of F:70 r:40. Its been taking about 1:13 seconds 
to fill. Idk if its a placebo effect but it just feels like its a bit longer than it used to take. 
-Now with the tank being empty after sitting overnight I fear I have a leak associated with the tank. I know the tank is at 168psi now and will check after work.

My questions:
-There is a check valve in the leader line from the compressor to the tank correct? are there O-rings here that I need to check? 
-Could this possibly be a seal failure within the compressor?
- Do you need to clean the air filter elements ever? or just replace them?
(obviously I will spray around all fittings with water/soap mixture for the bubble method)

*ADDING A SECOND COMPRESSOR* I can locally source a new 444c air compressor that I would hope to add to the system. 
-Can I piggy back and run both compressors off 1 relay or do I need to use a second relay and just tap into the rest of the wiring? 
-What is the best method for wiring...as far as where the second compressor should be wired in at?

Thanks for any help in advance. Here's a pic for clicks.


----------



## gettajetta13 (Jun 22, 2008)

*UPDATE*

I got back to my car after work and the tank sure enough dropped from the 16opsi down to 33psi in the tank. 

I got home and pulled out the spray bottle with dish soap/water mixture and sprayed each fitting. I was able to locate a small leak where the lead line exits the compressor. Unfortunately I do not think this was my issue. 

Upon disconnecting my line from the compressor and the check valve, I noticed that air was able to flow backwards out of the check valve...surely this cant be right..?!

At any rate... I wrapped the threads of each end of the lead line with nylon tape and reinstalled. The small leak disappeared from but is still not my issue. 

Parked the car for the evening at 160psi in the tank again. It sat for approx. 6hrs and this morning was down to 147psi. 

*Resolution/questions*

Today I think I will order 2 water traps, 2 check valves, and two sets of fittings. I figure it is probably best to replace these anyway since I know the parts came from a well maintained previous owner, but I do not know the mileage on them. 

Questions I have...
-I should be able to disconnect the lead line from the compressor at the check valve and not experience air depletion in the tank correct?
-Still wondering if there is any sort of internal check valve within the compressor body or the water trap.
-Thoughts on adding a check valve directly after the compressor? two is better than one in the event of failure on the road?


----------



## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

I wouldn't install the check valve at the compressor outlet port the air coming out of the compressor is very hot and will have your new check failing prematurely. You didn't mention what type of check you ordered, the stock Vivair checks? They're the weak point in the air ride, the SMC check are a better quality and what most upgrade to when replacing their check.



You've indicated that your compressor seems to take longer to fill and that you've blow a fuse both are indicators of leaky check valve. With a leaky check the compressor works double time to try and fill the tank and will a longer run time it overheats draws more current and blows the fuse. You also mentioned that the tank was a 168 psi no need to have the tank pressure set so high, I run my setup at 140 psi with no issues. Which software version do you you have on your V2 are you able to set your cut in and out pressures? I've your only able to set your cut out pressure the cut in is set to cut in at 10/15 psi lower than your tank pressure.


----------



## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

gettajetta13 said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> 
> *ADDING A SECOND COMPRESSOR* I can locally source a new 444c air compressor that I would hope to add to the system.
> ...


You can't run a second compressor off the same relay and stay away from the "stinger relay setup" the ones I've seen aren't fused correctly and end up burning out compressors not to mention a possible fire hazard. Run a separate 10 gauge red/black wire, 30 amps inline fuse harness with a 40amp 12v automotive relay. Not hard to make if you have the electrical skills if not buy the second compressor harness.

Typical stinger relay setup which is fused incorrectly:


If you do decide to do the stinger setup which I'm not a big fan off here how to fuse it correctly:


One way or another your still pulling new wires to your setup. :sly:


Here is the schematic from AirLift of the second compressor harness:




BTW car looks awesome :thumbup: Got a soft spot for bagged wagons


----------



## gettajetta13 (Jun 22, 2008)

_I wouldn't install the check valve at the compressor outlet port the air coming out of the compressor is very hot and will have your new check failing prematurely. You didn't mention what type of check you ordered, the stock Vivair checks? They're the weak point in the air ride, the SMC check are a better quality and what most upgrade to when replacing their check_.*Makes sense. I actually forgot to check the branding on the check valve. I know I have SMC water trap. I have not yet ordered the new check valve but will surely get an SMC.*

_You've indicated that your compressor seems to take longer to fill and that you've blow a fuse both are indicators of leaky check valve. With a leaky check the compressor works double time to try and fill the tank and will a longer run time it overheats draws more current and blows the fuse. You also mentioned that the tank was a 168 psi no need to have the tank pressure set so high, I run my setup at 140 psi with no issues. Which software version do you you have on your V2 are you able to set your cut in and out pressures? I've your only able to set your cut out pressure the cut in is set to cut in at 10/15 psi lower than your tank pressure._
*-Again..makes sense that the leaking CV would cause the compressor to work overtime and burn a fuse. 
-No real reason why I have the tank set at 168...I was just utilizing the capability. perhaps ill dial it down like yourself
-I do not know for certain which software I have on my V2. It was purchased locally/second hand, but I do have direct contact with the original installer Dave Meister at Meister Werks. I'll check for this function in the controller.
-By 'cut in and cut out pressures" are you referring to the amount of fluctuation in psi it would take for the compressor to auto refill the tank.. say in the event of a leak?

Thanks for the info it has been really helpful. Ill get to your wiring questions now. *


----------



## gettajetta13 (Jun 22, 2008)

_

Here is the schematic from AirLift of the second compressor harness:




BTW car looks awesome :thumbup: Got a soft spot for bagged wagons _

*Well I certainly don't want to introduce a fire hazard to the car (that's what engine mods are for), So I'd likely take this route...only problem is I am not the best at electrical. I have been teaching myself to understand schematics and have been progressing my skills in this area. When I did the original air install on the wagon it was way easier than anticipated. I'd feel confident enough to tackle this guy. but was really hoping to get some engine work done. (Super chargers making for a mighty fine desk ornament these days.) I guess I just need to see what costs will be vs. one big bad compressor Meister Werks says can do the job of nearly two. 

And thanks for the wagon love. It was very neglected 3 years ago when I got it...were on the final stages of the rebuild now!*


----------



## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

gettajetta13 said:


> _
> 
> Here is the schematic from AirLift of the second compressor harness:
> 
> ...


The cut in cut out pressure is exactly that pressure the compressor come on and off. This is just a curiousity question if you can adjust the cut in then you've got an older software addition. The update software onyl allows you to set the cut out.

If you go with the pre-built harness you'll have no issues, if you've put the setup in yourself you'll be ok with the second compressor add on. Here a something to keep in minds about running a single compressor with duallies if one craps out you're not stuck while running on big compressor well you can alway back fill the tanks with auxiliary air supply if it's air out.

 :facepalm:


----------

