# HELP with timing



## SportyB5 (Jun 4, 2005)

I'm having difficulties starting the car. It's 1991 8v Cali Digifant motor with a manual transmission.
I had the head rebuilt by a professional. I've set everything according to what I've read online and the forum. There's gas, good cranking power, and spark. Spark plugs look good when pulled out and checked since I just put a new set in. 
Additionally I installed lightweight lifters which I had in oil upside down for a 
day. However, after I installed them it might of been a week or two before I started working on the car. 
An autotech 270 camshaft was also installed. 
I have an aftermarket flywheel and clutch and the marks look a little different than most pics.


First pic shows the flywheel marks. The first and the second mark. I drew the white line on the flywheel because there was an indent and it wasn't all that visible. There's also a 3rd mark after those two marks identical to the first mark. Which mark on the flywheel do I use?

The rest of the pics are where everything falls when it's aligned.



If you have any advice please let me know. I want to get started and get it driving. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 



_Modified by SportyB5 at 9:36 AM 2-2-2008_


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## SportyB5 (Jun 4, 2005)

I pulled off the camshaft to check the lifters and they all work properly. 
Anyone know which mark I'm suppose to use for the flywheel?


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## epjetta (Sep 19, 2006)

*Re: (SportyB5)*

the one in your first pic is tdc. the second pic is showing the factory timing mark on the left


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## SportyB5 (Jun 4, 2005)

*Re: (epjetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *epjetta* »_the one in your first pic is tdc. the second pic is showing the factory timing mark on the left

So, which one do I use? The factory timing mark or the TDC?


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## h00ters CEO (Jan 24, 2008)

*Re: (SportyB5)*

i would recommend using the TDC mark. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Good Luck with the rest of your project.


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## kvngti (Dec 25, 2005)

*Re: (SportyB5)*

had same problem this is what you do set to tdc by the pully next to the cam shaft.youll need a rachet and a large socket i for get witch one.once you have the marks lined up go over to your distributer and take the cap off.the rotor should be pointing to a little mark like a dent or more like a slash on the rim of the dist.its there just look really hard.once you check that then look at your flywheel.im not sure about that mark you paint but if every thing is lined up there should be a big dent about the size of a dime or smaller mark on it.and thats the mark you go buy.it almost look like someone broke off one of the nuts and shaved it clean.well thats the mark.then you want to loose up the bolts on the dist.only a little on each side enough where you can turn the dist a little at a time.dont turn to fast or you may past it.you dont have to line the marks up anymore once you have everything like the marks lined up.oh yea dont forget to put the cap back on.start the car.she should turn but may not start.if that happens go back to the dist and turn counter-clock wise a little.start car again.if i wont start go back and turn again.after so many little turns you should start to hear a change in the way the car is turning over.it will studer like she wants to fire up.once you have it right the car should start.now if she starts you want to still leave the bolts to the dist loose cause you have to make sure its dead on.now get your timing lite out and hook it up.also to note its better to do this job at night or in a low lite so you can see the lite good.aim the light at the flywheel.you should see a big dent in there thats your mark.you want to get that mark in the center of the flywheel.im not sure what setting is for the lite but i think it between 6.0 and 7.0(someone correct me if im wrong).your revs should be at about 900 to 1100 rpm.once all that it done your finished.put all caps back,tighten up the bolts on the dist and your done.lets review,labar about 1 hr,money used to get it fix 0 dollars,the look on your local mech face when you call him up and tell him to kiss your a**,PRICELESS!







where theres a vw there always help on vwvortex.i hope this helped you out bro. im me if you need something else. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## SportyB5 (Jun 4, 2005)

I'll give this a try tonight after work.


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## SportyB5 (Jun 4, 2005)

Tried moving the distributor back and forth and nothing still. Upon further inspection one of the grounds from the ignition was not grounded. Could be possible that I fried something? 
After I connected the ground still didn't start.


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## veedub1991 (Mar 16, 2006)

*Re: (SportyB5)*

So your pretty sure your getting fuel spark and have good timing. The only other thing you need to have a running motor is compression!! Make sure to check that. I had the same problem after getting my head rebuilt. Was it rebuilt stock or what all was done to it?
Heres my thread 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3159430
It shoud have all the info for timing and such that you would need. If your compression is bad pm me.


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## SportyB5 (Jun 4, 2005)

*Re: (veedub1991)*


_Quote, originally posted by *veedub1991* »_So your pretty sure your getting fuel spark and have good timing. The only other thing you need to have a running motor is compression!! Make sure to check that. I had the same problem after getting my head rebuilt. Was it rebuilt stock or what all was done to it?
Heres my thread 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3159430
It shoud have all the info for timing and such that you would need. If your compression is bad pm me.

I have a really good spark. LOL Good enough to make me jump. Timing is all set and compression is there too. I had the head rebuilt but they used the same valves and it wasn't decked. Only thing they replaced are the valve guides and seals and double checked everything for wear. 
How do I check if I have fuel? I don't really smell gasoline when I crank it without a spark. Also, which fuel line is incoming and which one is the return?


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## veedub1991 (Mar 16, 2006)

*Re: (SportyB5)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SportyB5* »_
I have a really good spark. LOL Good enough to make me jump. Timing is all set and compression is there too. I had the head rebuilt but they used the same valves and it wasn't decked. Only thing they replaced are the valve guides and seals and double checked everything for wear. 
How do I check if I have fuel? I don't really smell gasoline when I crank it without a spark. Also, which fuel line is incoming and which one is the return?



Well if you have compression, one way to check for fuel would be to take the spark plugs out and have some one crank your motor over. You should see some mist spraying out of the spark plug hole.
How does it sound when you crank it over? Does it spin easy? Does it try to fire? Crank hard? ect...


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## SportyB5 (Jun 4, 2005)

It spins easy but I don't see or smell any fuel.


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## veedub1991 (Mar 16, 2006)

*Re: (SportyB5)*

You may have some how fired your computer. That can mess with the fuel.


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## kvngti (Dec 25, 2005)

*Re: (SportyB5)*

i know on my 8v there was always this wire that would come loose and make the car not crank.it was somewhere near the firewall.check all wires make sure none are cut or split.


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## SportyB5 (Jun 4, 2005)

Is there a way to test the ECU to see if it's in working condition?


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## veedub1991 (Mar 16, 2006)

*Re: (SportyB5)*

I know you can take your car and have the codes read, but that would cost some since its not obd2. Try doing a search and see if anyone has a test.
Another thing that might work on your car is there is a wire by your fuse panel that will output fault codes. It only works on some cars tho. The info below is found on http://www.a2resource.com/elec....html. Look there for more info.

"To access the fault system, turn the ignition on (but don't start the car) and place a jumper between the brown wire on the black connector and the yellow wire on the white connector under the shift boot, for at least 5 seconds. Remove the jumper, and the CHECK light on the dashboard should flash one long pulse, then several shorter pulses (with spaces) indicating codes. Please click here for an example.
The example picture above would indicate a 1234 code. Connect the jumper again for at least 4 seconds to advance to the next code. When "0000" (2.5s flashes at 2.5s intervals) or "4444" is read, the sequence is completed. To clear the codes, connect the jumper with the ignition off, then turn it on. After 5 seconds, remove the jumper, and "4444" should be read. NOTE: Code 1111 is a common misdiagnosis. It will almost always come up shared with any other code. If you see this code by itself, check all the wiring, and as a last resort, replace the control unit."


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## SportyB5 (Jun 4, 2005)

Okay, I had a chance to do more work on the car. Tested the fuel pums and fuel pressure. There's pressure all the way to the injectors. There's 12v coming to injectors but they're not clicking or firing. Tested the injectors manually and they are working. 
Makes me think that the ECU is bad or maybe shorted out somehow and not sending a correct signal. 
Anyone have a 037906023 Digifant ECU for Cali car?


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## SportyB5 (Jun 4, 2005)

Tried a different ECU and nothing. More testing to follow now that I have a bentley manual.


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## SportyB5 (Jun 4, 2005)

Finally got it started. Everything was in order except and timed correctly. The reason the injectors were not firing was because 2 wires that go to the hall sensor in the distributor were pressed against the hard water pipe and side water outlet that it caused a break in the wiring. Therefore no signal to the hall sensor which caused the injectors to malfunction. 
After we pulled the wire between the two pipes it fired on first try.
ECU and everything else was fine.


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