# My Build: BT 2.0L, 10:1CR, 9000RPM



## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

I've had a few people I'm in contact with on 'Tex ask to see my build thread, which is only posted on a private local forum, so here it is! There are several revisions - I went from bone stock, to chipped and turbo-back, to built 2.0L on K04 (hello diesel powerband!), to a 3071 to an HTA3076 to a Precision 6262 .83. My favourite versions are the 2.0L, 10:1CR 3071, which makes for one helluva broad-powerband daily driver, and the 6262, but only because it walks supercars like they're in the wrong gear  Stock was pathetically boring, chip + TBE makes for a great daily that is still OEM reliable (which is still crap :laugh, and I felt that the 3076 was a mismatch for the 1.8T, even in 2.0L form. If I'm going to have to downshift (which I never really needed to with the 3071 or smaller), there's no difference between going down two gears instead of one gear, so I might as well put a 62+mm turbo and have some scary fun 


Engine:

2.0L displacement, 10:1 compression
Bored to 82.5mm – Wossner pistons (I wanted 83mm, but it would have been a 6-week wait for pistons!)
Stroked to 92.8mm - AEG crank
AEB head – Supertech Inconel valves
ARP Main, rod, and head fasteners
Calico coated ACL race bearings - rods and mains
GT3071R turbo, .63 AR (now Precision 6262 .83)
Treadstone TR8 with custom aluminum piping
3” Stainless turbo-back
Eurodyne Maestro
Wide-band O2 conversion
Water/meth injection
Lucas 830cc injectors, Walbro inline pump

Suspension/Chassis:

H&R SS-adustable coilovers
19mm rear anti-sway
Adjustable rear control arms
Defcon bushings, spherical bearings, poly bushings/mounts
~240lbs weight reduction

Wheels/Tires/Brakes:

17” OZ Ultraleggera
Star Specs
Wilwood Superlite Calipers
330mm two-piece, aluminum-hat rotors
ATE Super Blue 

This car is my daily driver so I'm basing the build around drivability. The engine/suspension/brakes can easily handle another 100+wHP with just a different turbo (GT35+), but I'm trying to keep it moderate. Spool and power-band are very important to me, hence my choice of a turbo that some would find to be under-sized considering the build. I'm leaving a couple of mods on the table – cams and an SEM intake manifold – just to give me something to quell inevitable future mod-itis. I should have no problem with 400wHP as-is, then the cams and manifold will easily pull another 50+wHP, but my turbo will be maxed out at that point. Depending on how I feel about the drivability, I might go to a GT3076R and push for 500wHP. My only regret is that I didn't do the extra work and go to 2.2L of displacement; although, doing so does put the rod ratio and angles at fairly undesirable levels for a daily driver, so it's not all bad.

Suspension and handling are more important to me than power, so I put a fair amount of work into tuning it to my preference. I took a chance on the H&R adjustable coilovers as they were literally just released for sale a couple of weeks ago, and reviews are non-existent. Given H&R's tendency more towards the performance end of the spectrum of coilovers – which is what I'm looking for – I don't think I can go too wrong here. That said, I have drawn up some plans for a shock dyno that I can build for a couple of hundred bucks, so I may do some testing and re-valve the dampers to my preference. Proper damping requires spring rates to match your compression/rebound curves, so I chose H&R also because of their large variety of springs available, and should I re-valve the dampers, I can swap different springs in to match the new compression/rebound curves.

H&R Stainless Adjustable dampers:











I plan to keep this car as my daily for a few years, then get another daily (twin-turbo B7 RS4 sounds good to me ) and strip this car, and turn it into a track car (road course). I'm confident that I can get it down to 2800lbs plus cage – with 500wHP and AWD, it should haul ass. I hope to hell Race City finds new land for next year! 

I built the engine myself, and blueprinted as follows: bored/honed to spec, weight-matching, ring gapping, rod and main mic'ing, Plastigauging, rod and crank axial gauging, deck-level gauging, and compression-ratio calculation. I tried to get the machine work done to somewhat loose clearances, and it paid off – I'm running about 75-80% of the way toward the loose end of manufacturer specifications all around, which is exactly what I wanted. I did not have the rotating assembly balanced, but I did weight-match each piston/rod/wrist-pin/ring/bearing assembly to >0.5 gram from lightest to heaviest.

I calculated all bearing clearances by subtracting the journal diameter from the sum of the bearing thickness and bore of the rod/main; which, yields the clearance. Plastigauging is a less accurate technique, but in this case I did it as a safety-check, and the numbers were consistent with my measurements. 

Essential tools for engine blueprinting (not pictured is an inside micrometer). 











Block decked, cleaned, painted and ready to go:




















The AEB head (found only on '97-'99 Passats and A4s) flows ~30% more than all other 1.8T heads; which, is a big deal since VAG heads flow like crap compared to something like a Honda.











Ready for assembly:


















I've never used anything but OEM bearings before, and let me tell you: I'm a convert to coated race bearings. They are much more uniform, and obviously constructed of higher-quality materials, than basic bearings. I've been shocked at some of the crap quality I've seen in OEM bearings.


















Hand-held macro FTW! 










I'm also a convert to high-quality fasteners! The ARP bolts are a thing of beauty next to a standard bolt – there's just no contest. I have much more 'faith' in fasteners of this grade.




















I didn't snap any pics, but I also measured the volume of the combustion chamber and piston dish, and deck height, in order to calculate my true compression ratio. This link explains the math better than I can in any less than 4 paragraphs: Compression Ratio. I CC'ed the piston dish and combustion chamber by sealing the rings and valves with grease, then sealing them off with plexiglass and dispensing a measured volume of oil into the enclosure. My numbers were comparable to other people who have done the same on the 20V, and my resulting compression ratio comes out to be 9.9x:1. I'm very happy with this figure, as it's a considerable increase over stock – something which will yield better off-boost response, increased fuel economy, and higher ultimate power numbers. Cylinder pressure = power 



ARP Main studs in; lower bearings assembly lubed and waiting for the crank:











Plastigauging - in this case the main clearance specs are 0.0008" - 0.0024". I'm right at 0.002", or 75% of the way to the 'loose' limits - perfect for a high-performance engine!










Mains in - pistons next!











My assistant broke her arm a week ago 











The rings didn't need much gapping, but I used a ring grinder to get them into my specs, and clocked them to 180°.











Block done and ready to bolt the head on:











Ready for timing gear and to go back in the car:












Treadstone TR8 – I have Vibrant 2.5” aluminum piping and will be welding a custom setup.




















For some odd reason, VAG made the '02 TT a narrowband 02-sensor vehicle; so, I bought a Golf ECU so that I can convert to wideband 02. I had to rewire the pinouts on the ECU harness, but it was not much work for benefits it will yield, e.g., smoother idle, additional power via tune, etc. I also threw in an AEM UEGO while I was at it. I'm trying to keep the gauges in my interior to a minimum, but I feel that a boost, oil pressure, and A/F gauge are requirements at this level. I'm going to see if I can work an EGT in cleanly as well.










Given that real estate is at a premium in the TT, I used my OEM washer-fluid bottle for a methanol reservoir (-40°C washer fluid is ~50% methanol, which is a perfect blend if there's no harsh additives). This is also provides me with a built-in low-level warning so I'm not running a 104-octane map on pump with no meth!











I love my Wilwood brakes! Fixed calipers are not for everyone as they require pretty much annual maintenance, but their response and performance is significantly better than floating calipers.











I put in new hubs and bearings, and finally did a front stud conversion. I've been running studs in the rear for a while, and am ecstatic to not have to deal VAG wheel bolts any more.











I just got the turbo/manifold/injectors today, I have some more parts coming on Tuesday, and I still have to weld up the IC piping, so I should have it all running by Friday. C'moooooon Sunshine! :beer2:


Soooo, it was time for some upgrades!

I roasted my Clutchnet 6-puck metallic and 2X pressure plate - it was allegedly good for 500wHP, but it only lasted me eight months. This clutch was okay to drive, but the pedal pressure was like single-leg pressing 200lbs. The 02M is known for being finicky with aftermarket clutches, and I also had a lot of issues with brake fluid leaking from the clutch breather valve, which I believe was due to the higher fluid pressures from the 2X pressure plate. I eventually solved the issue by replacing all the lines and fittings with aftermarket parts, and drilling the restrictor out of the clutch line, but I had flat-bed the car a couple of times due to dropping all the fluid.

In an effort to avoid a twin disc ($2500 and frequent rebuilds), I did some research and came up with Bully Clutch in Ottawa, which has been around since 1930. I was impressed that the guy answering the phone actually campaigned a car in the Canadian Touring Car Championship (rather than just a clueless salesman), and by their patented RXX system, which replaces the fixed pivot points on the pressure with floating needle bearings, which reduces the pedal effort when the Bellville spring is compressed. I can tell you that this works amazingly - the pedal effort is less than stock! Although, the complete engagement of that disc is about 1/1000mm of pedal travel.


RXX needle bearings:











I had Bully make me a custom, claimed 600+wHP, 4-puck metallic. I _strongly_ hope that I don't have to swap this in another eight months:










You got to pay to play - $140 slave cylinder spacer that cures the pedal drifting, and other issues that occur with high HP clutches on the 02M:










Supertech Ti retainers and valve springs - yay for rev'ing to 9000RPM!:










Lots of assembly lube!:










Specs on the Cat 3653 cams that went in. I was very tempted to put some massive, rumbly cams in, but keeping it drivable, while still opening up breathing to 8500+RPM, was what I ended up going with:










Integrated Engineering friction disc between the cam and cam sprocket:










Put this beauty on only to realize that they shipped me the wrong sprocket! I called them and they were on backorder so it went together with the OEM sprocket; I'll have to wait until another day to get the correct gear and properly degree the cams:










I also converted to a manual timing-belt tensioner. The newer hydraulic tensioners occasional fail (I replaced a friend's engine when this happened to her A4), and the old ones only ever fail due to lack of maintenance. Note the ARP fasteners on the cam and crank gears - I don't want things coming apart at 9K RPM! You can see where I cut the hydraulic tensioner down so that I could keep a complete surround intact for the t-belt. I forgot to take a picture, but I also put on a Fluidampr to keep the nasty harmonics in line at high RPM:


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

Time for more ponies!:

25lbs/min vs 76lbs/min!











PTE 6262CEA .83 has been in for a while now, and I've got to say that after running Garretts all my life, I am a Precision Turbo convert! I'm making 5psi by 3,000RPM, and 30psi by ~5,000RPM. I'm revving to 9,000RPM, so I've got 4,000RPM of power-band at 30psi! I am simply amazed at how drivable a 75lb/min turbo on a 2.0L can be with the _right_ setup. The car FFFFing moves as it is, but I'll try to get that boost up to 35psi on 94+meth in Spring.

Crappy cell-phone pics ahead! 

I had to massage the firewall a little, notch the valve cover, and use bolts rather than studs for the turbo to manifold fasteners, but I eventually got the beast in there! 











The DP did not line up, and fitment on the TT is _very_ tight, so I had to do some fab'ing. I want to convert the entire system over to v-band/Wiggins anyway, so every time I pull a flange, I chop it and convert it. Big shout out to Luke for helping me get this done! :beer2:






























Finished product, which fit perfectly:












I was also having some trouble with blow-by despite the leak-down being perfect, so I took the valve cover baffle out, drilled a bunch of holes in it (there were only three tiny holes!), and added some stainless padding to keep the oil in the engine. I also added another 3/4" vent to the top of the cover, so I now have 3 x 3/4" lines to vent the crankcase. It seems to be working, but next Summer will be the real test; and, I'll add a vacuum pump if there are any more issues. A pump would help if I put in Integrated Engineerings big cams anyway, since they only make about 5 inHg and the brakes don't work too well when coasting with such little vacuum


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

FWIW, I've been told by many people in the VAG scene that a 10:1CR 1.8T won't last that long, but I now have 40,000KM on it at 30+psi. The Evo/Honda guys have been doing it forever, so I wanted to try and push our scene a little further out of the dark ages  This car sees daily driving in Saskatchewan Winters (-35°C ), and I just put 6000KM on it in 30 days! Compression and leak-down are still perfect.

I'm also collecting parts for some Spring mods as well: battery relocate, thermostatic oil cooler, power steering cooler, larger rad, hood louvres, and an AWIC (which will free up some room for ducts for the brakes and another to cool the turbo/mani/DP).


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## wrestler4life521 (Aug 12, 2010)

Wow.


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## lxnadeau (May 8, 2011)

Subscribed !

Sent from a Galaxy SII using Tapatalk


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Nice Jeremy, it was about time you had a build thread on this monster in here! I give you :thumbup::thumbup: for building the motor the old school way!

I watched the naysayers talk their usual garbage on the 1.8t technical with no actual experience to back up their theories (maybe except Aaron that wasn't totally clueless). I never responded to your thread about the 10:1 CR limits because you specifically asked for people with actual 1.8t BT experience (which I don't have). However, some the misinformation in that thread left me scratching my head (no wonder the Honda and EVO community is at least a decade ahead of us in terms of making turbo power). 

Anyway, there should be plenty to talk about in here... drama-free! 

PS: I will send you a PM about something I've been working on


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

:what:


Looking forward to seeing what/if the issues are down the road along with further modifications/tweaks. Love the crank ventilation integration. Pure genius! :beer::beer::beer:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

FYI, I put over 50K miles on my 10:1 2008cc setup that I built myself 5 years ago. Nice build, and makes me eager to get started on mine. I have a few questions I'll post tomorrow. :thumbup:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

20v master said:


> FYI, I put over 50K miles on my 10:1 2008cc setup that I built myself 5 years ago. Nice build, and makes me eager to get started on mine. I have a few questions I'll post tomorrow. :thumbup:


Somehow the 1.8t-technical big power residents saw a 10:1 CR build as a ticking bomb with elevated pressure. I personally disagree because stronger components can always be made. In ED's 1000+ whp red car for example, he kept stretching existing ARP hardware holding the top and bottom end together. Simple, he decided one day he had enough of what's readily available, and had hardware made that near doubled his clamping loads without yielding. Same goes for rods, bearings, pistons etc. you start exceeding their safe work range, they'll fail. But that doesn't mean that beefier/stronger custom ones can't be made to match the cylinder pressures you're generating. A 10:1 build can be made reliably, it just means that usual 8.5:1 components might not be well suited for the conditions. 

Would I do it personally? The answer is No, but there is a reason behind that! My tuning philosophy is modeled after rally racing. I believe in boost, and will compromise and do anything to make use of the most pressurized air possible (that's why turbos were created in the first place :laugh. This means that in a big snail configuration, higher CR will set the boost limit and lower the fuel knocking threshold. Not necessarily how I choose to build my cars just because I've mastered the art of cooling lava with combining water injection with ethanol. However, there are other building/tuning school of thoughts, for example road racing and endurance builds tend to shy away from big boost and push their CR higher to have "hot motor" (better off-boost grunt and out of the hole power). This also guarantees that they are not seeing elevated cylinder pressure for extended period of time (boost is the biggest driver of in-cylinder pressure, much more dramatic than a 2 point compression ratio bump).


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## tt_kcalb_nevar (Feb 26, 2010)

Subscribed!!! 

This is awesome! :beer::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> This means that in a big snail configuration, higher CR will set the boost limit and lower the fuel knocking threshold. Not necessarily how I choose to build my cars just because I've mastered the art of cooling lava with combining water injection with ethanol.


So what if you combine all these ingredients? More meth, E85, high CR, and high boost? Like you said, it just means you have to find the next weak link that's limiting the sum.  That setup was in FWD trim, so sacrificing a psi or two didn't matter as traction was the limiting factor. Obviously OP knows, but I'll get to see how it does in a TT/Haldex platform soon [collecting parts]. :thumbup:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Why the Wossner pistons? Pin skirt area looks a little on the thin side, but probably not an issue. Also...



> You got to pay to play - $140 slave cylinder spacer that cures the pedal drifting, and other issues that occur with high HP clutches on the 02M:


What issues? I've never had a problem with pedal/clutch/slaves on 02M's. 

You're using a CTS manifold? 

As for coated bearings, the coating improves the visual quality, but quality of materials as you say shouldn't be an issue as the components ride on a film of oil, not the bearings. I see the coatings as a gimmick per say, as you don't see them on large volume production engines. The thought behind them is reduced friction, correct me if I'm wrong. OEM's are constantly searching for efficiency, and if a simple solution existed such as coated bearings, they'd be in every Accord, Camry, and every other econobox out there as 99% of consumers place MPG over HP. Now there's no downside to using them, but there won't be an upside either unless you catch a failure event just in time where the coating kept things alive by not scoring the crank pins, but that's wishful thinking.


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## Matt_B (Apr 22, 2010)

Really nice build and very similar to my own engine spec.
Did you fit solid lifters ? I have the full ferrea valvetrain and have capped the rev limit at a smidge under 8000rpm as I had heard that hydro lifters would be an issue above 8.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Matt_B said:


> Really nice build and very similar to my own engine spec.
> Did you fit solid lifters ? I have the full ferrea valvetrain and have capped the rev limit at a smidge under 8000rpm as I had heard that hydro lifters would be an issue above 8.


Rumor. I spun hydro lifters to 8500 consistently, but the OEM valves/springs won't/didn't like it. :laugh:


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## Matt_B (Apr 22, 2010)

20v master said:


> Rumor. I spun hydro lifters to 8500 consistently, but the OEM valves/springs won't/didn't like it. :laugh:


Ahh, cool. Maybe that rev limit will get lifted soon then ha ha
Saying that its pretty bloody rapid as it is


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Awesome to see your build thread Jeremy - lots of good info in here!!

Great to hear how you've pushed this setup and still maintained reliability too :beer:


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## LZ7W TT (Mar 1, 2005)

nice build! source for those brakes?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

20v master said:


> So what if you combine all these ingredients? More meth, E85, high CR, and high boost? Like you said, it just means you have to find the next weak link that's limiting the sum.  That setup was in FWD trim, so sacrificing a psi or two didn't matter as traction was the limiting factor. Obviously OP knows, but I'll get to see how it does in a TT/Haldex platform soon [collecting parts]. :thumbup:


That's where things get interesting! You can always get beefy components to make it reliable but every fuel has its pre-ignition and detonation threshold. Push the boost far enough and you'll get there eventually, especially on a BT capable of pressurizing 60+ psi if pushed. You attempt this on higher compression ratio (say a full point) and you have lowered your safe boost capacity (before pre-ignition or knock) considerably. Logically, one would assume that it would balance itself out since compression=power. However, not at the same ratio as boost! Boost is the single best power maker besides displacement, timing and CR have much less efficacy at the ragged edge (I see people with EVOs chase more timing at the expense of boost all the time, not realizing that they make power at a about a 2:1 ratio. Same applies to CR vs boost, you'll always get more returns from squeezing some extra psi of boost). So, it all depends on what you're going for, but pound for pound the motor with more boost takes the crown!


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## G'D60 (Mar 11, 2002)

amazing build. Just stunning. Can't wait till your in town next. I HAVE to see this car


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

KRB has an S1 race car that runs corn juice, high boost and a 10.7x compression ratio... _seems to work okay..._


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## Dowski12 (Nov 2, 2011)

All_Euro said:


> KRB has an S1 race car that runs corn juice, high boost and a 10.7x compression ratio... _seems to work okay..._


HOLY SPOILER BATMAN!!!:what:

Just the weight of that damn thing would give you the down force you need:laugh:


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## misternoob (Oct 25, 2009)

opcorn:

Everytime I see builds/threads like this I want to run out and start working another 2 jobs to fund something like this.

:thumbup:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

All_Euro said:


> KRB has an S1 race car that runs corn juice, high boost and a 10.7x compression ratio... _seems to work okay..._


In fear of derailing Jeremy's build thread, let's just say that we don't have enough data to understand the rationale behind the CR chosen for that build. Without getting deep into the wonderful and debated topics of rod/crank ratio, bore/stroke ratio, and knowing the class restrictions they're building whitin, it is safe to assume that it must have been done for specific reason and as a compromise. Such a high ratio in a race motor would be an outlier, and I can promise you that they would net much higher power figures without a CR in the high end of the spectrum (for forced induction that is). Heck, we don't even know the purpose of the build and what the application will be.

If you're to look into such topics (something I often do in my spare time when not posting in various forums), you'll find that Formula One, in their short period with turbocharged motors, is the best documented data sample you can have (Group B rally monsters would be another good sample too with their all out, no compromise, approach to making turbo power). In the F1 group, they mostly settled in average for 7.5:1 CR in the race day engines. It wasn't unusual for teams to go as low as the 6s in CR with the qualifying motors (which is understandable when they ran upward of 6 bar of boost and made well over 1000 HP in small 1.3-1.6 liter of displacement). Same thing in the Group B beasts, their CR ratios where usually in the low to mid 7s with mindboggling boost (I've heard rumors of teams running unrestricted with no wastegate and compressor bypass valves and boosting over 80 psi, and that's with true antilag :heart. 

Anyway, these well documented groups would give you an idea on what is optimal when power is the ultimate goal. I know that our street engines are far from what they were, and have to work reliably for much extended periods and heat cycles. However, the model is the same... at Mitsubishi we wouldn't build anything higher than 8.5:1 for homologated turbo race engines (closest to our street-tuned applications as you're ever going to get because they had to be sold as is to the public in one model trim - lancer evolution, ST_i_ etc.). In conclusion, higher than 8.5:1 to 9:0 can be done and be reliable, but know that ultimately is compromising how much can be achieved on-boost in terms of all out power. One can make the case for better and broader drivability with forgoing some on-boost power for off-boost peppiness (I assume that's also where Jeremy is going with his choice of CR). But once again, pound for pound, lower CR and more boost takes the crown in making power.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Dowski12 said:


> HOLY SPOILER BATMAN!!!:what:
> 
> Just the weight of that damn thing would give you the down force you need:laugh:


That seems to be mimicking the rather conservative group B rally version aero package. What would you say then about a more evolved package like the Pikes Peak spoiler with integrated front wing? :laugh:

Same car:












In more modern packages:


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> In fear of derailing Jeremy's build thread, let's just say that we don't have enough data to understand the rationale behind the CR chosen for that build...


Yes - I'm not trying to sidetrack too much here… just love the high c/r stuff. KRB races this car across Scandinavia in Time Attach and Extreme Class events. They built this car as a culmination of their race car building/racing experience and as a "no holds barred" and no stage 1, 2 or 3 build.

Ya those F1 engines are incredible - nowhere near drivable type power on the street though. Thankfully cylinder head & fuel injection design have come a long way since the Group B days.

I know CincyTT built a 10:1 engine way back & others have successfully since. But Jeremy running his @ _30+ psi daily_ puts a huge smile on my face. Pretty stoked on what he's done 

I've picked up a 95.5mm crank and can't wait to use it… but I do have to wait  10.5:1 c/r has been the plan but keeping an eye, in the meantime, on Jeremy's thread/results :beer:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

^^^ that's the thing though, 30 psi is baby boost and barely working such turbos! Don't get me wrong, I respect and applaud Jeremy for at least running decent boost for his chosen CR. One day, hopefully I'll cross over to dark side and run a bigger snail and go where nobody is going with these builds (50+ psi with advanced timing on a daily basis). When targeting 50-60 psi or more, 9:1 or less is the name of the game! :beer:


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> ^^^ that's the thing though, 30 psi is baby boost and barely working such turbos! Don't get me wrong, I respect and applaud Jeremy for at least running decent boost for his chosen CR. One day, hopefully I'll cross over to dark side and run a bigger snail and go where nobody is going with these builds (50+ psi with advanced timing on a daily basis). When targeting 50-60 psi or more, 9:1 or less is the name of the game! :beer:




How do you even find the plumbing to sustain such pressures and under the heat of the engine? Has to be silicon, but I don't know what that's rated to...... damn.. :laugh:opcorn:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> How do you even find the plumbing to sustain such pressures and under the heat of the engine? Has to be silicon, but I don't know what that's rated to...... damn.. :laugh:opcorn:


Aluminum piping can handle upwards of 100 psi at high temperature. Good flexible aerospace o-ring clamps will hold the joints easily. I wouldn't be the first or last one to run high psi you know, the drag guys do it all day long 

Here you can see the type of clamps that would work on high psi (they even have a video showing the flexibility). 
http://www.dragtimes.com/video-viewer.php?v=76CEWVXru3M&feature

The CDi ones are tested to hold 500 psi (although they come in odd piping size).
http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=tutVohe0Kh8&desktop_uri=/watch?v=tutVohe0Kh8


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> ^^^ that's the thing though, 30 psi is baby boost and barely working such turbos! Don't get me wrong, I respect and applaud Jeremy for at least running decent boost for his chosen CR. One day, hopefully I'll cross over to dark side and run a bigger snail and go where nobody is going with these builds (50+ psi with advanced timing on a daily basis). When targeting 50-60 psi or more, 9:1 or less is the name of the game! :beer:


Haha - true 30 psi isn't earth shattering… I just wasn't sure how 10:1 c/r would take 30-35 psi as a daily; especially with the low quality gas we get up here. Seems to be working fine!

I'm happy to wring my K03's neck for a while but a Holset VGT has the plan for quite a few years… and Holset's do seem to enjoy 40 or so psi. A 50+ psi daily would def take some ground up planning with a little different approach… so ya, I can see where 9:1 might be a little more appropriate there :thumbup:

As far as high pressure clamps go, I was thinking of using T-Bolt V Band clamps… http://www.treadstoneperformance.co...=613&prodname=3"+Tube+V+Band+Flange+Clamp+Kit Anyone have experience with these?


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## Dowski12 (Nov 2, 2011)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> ^^^ that's the thing though, 30 psi is baby boost and barely working such turbos! Don't get me wrong, I respect and applaud Jeremy for at least running decent boost for his chosen CR. One day, hopefully I'll cross over to dark side and run a bigger snail and go where nobody is going with these builds (50+ psi with advanced timing on a daily basis). When targeting 50-60 psi or more, 9:1 or less is the name of the game! :beer:


Guess I need to buy a new boost gauge (mine tops out at 30). I'd be really interested to see how my setup will handle 50+ psi. :thumbup:


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

Thanks for the props, everyone! :beer: I wouldn't call my workmanship/parts/etc. top-notch - it's all done to a relatively low budget. It would certainly be nothing this forum has ever seen if I had a huge budget (twin turbo, 40psi, solid-lifter 4.2, please ). Maybe one day when the kid's gone to college (only 8 more years! :laugh. And don't worry about derailing my thread - as long as it's technical or interesting, post as much as you want!




20v master said:


> FYI, I put over 50K miles on my 10:1 2008cc setup that I built myself 5 years ago. Nice build, and makes me eager to get started on mine. I have a few questions I'll post tomorrow. :thumbup:


Nice! What turbo were you running? Psi? Would love some more info, or a thread, if you've got it.





Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Somehow the 1.8t-technical big power residents saw a 10:1 CR build as a ticking bomb with elevated pressure. I personally disagree because stronger components can always be made.


Exactly - if I bend a rod, or drop some bolts, I'll just put stronger rods or bolts in. I don't pay much attention to the naysayers, because it's not as if hundreds of people have tried it and they all broke stuff.




20v master said:


> Why the Wossner pistons? Pin skirt area looks a little on the thin side, but probably not an issue.


They were what was on the shelf in 9.5:1 (I CC'd the chamber twice, and came up with 9.9x:1). I would have loved to have something custom and beefy made, but I didn't have the budget for it at the time.



20v master said:


> What issues? I've never had a problem with pedal/clutch/slaves on 02M's.


NLS 02M Shim Kit - Plenty of people with issues, to which this shim has cured. I'm with Max in feeling that even running a SMFW is not ideal on the 02M. As much power as the 02M can handle, it definitely doesn't feel like an _engineered_ part of a system (the car) with an aftermarket clutch.





20v master said:


> You're using a CTS manifold?
> 
> As for coated bearings, the coating improves the visual quality, but quality of materials as you say shouldn't be an issue as the components ride on a film of oil, not the bearings. I see the coatings as a gimmick per say, as you don't see them on large volume production engines. The thought behind them is reduced friction, correct me if I'm wrong. OEM's are constantly searching for efficiency, and if a simple solution existed such as coated bearings, they'd be in every Accord, Camry, and every other econobox out there as 99% of consumers place MPG over HP. Now there's no downside to using them, but there won't be an upside either unless you catch a failure event just in time where the coating kept things alive by not scoring the crank pins, but that's wishful thinking.


Yes, CTS/Kinetic log exhaust; RMR knock-off intake.

Agreed that the bearings won't last long without oil (I don't know who would claim that...certainly no one reputable); but, coatings can definitely increase the conformability, embed-ability, and corrosion resistance of the bearing. Despite the bearings being hydrodynamic, there is, inevitably, contact (they do wear!), and not just at startup. Furthermore, using macro images, I could easily detect a difference in uniformity between 'premium' bearings and regular ones. Couple all of the above with the almost negligible extra cost, and it's a no-brainer to me. 





LZ7W TT said:


> nice build! source for those brakes?


They're a custom setup, comprised of Wilwood Superlite 4 calipers, and two-piece rotors machined by Revolution Brake.




Marcus_Aurelius said:


> ^^^ that's the thing though, 30 psi is baby boost and barely working such turbos! Don't get me wrong, I respect and applaud Jeremy for at least running decent boost for his chosen CR. One day, hopefully I'll cross over to dark side and run a bigger snail and go where nobody is going with these builds (50+ psi with advanced timing on a daily basis). When targeting 50-60 psi or more, 9:1 or less is the name of the game! :beer:


Oh, believe me, if I could get e85 (I think there's like 3 stations in Canada with it), I would be shooting for 40psi...and probably finding some weak links along the way 

I really hope you do go crazy soon! You've done a huge service to our community (most of which I think goes over people's heads), and have certainly opened my eyes to a larger scope of knowledge. I was always pretty good at disseminating information, but I now live on Evo/racing/SAE/Engineering forums to source my info, thanks to you.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

jbrehm said:


> Nice! What turbo were you running? Psi? Would love some more info, or a thread, if you've got it.
> 
> 
> NLS 02M Shim Kit - Plenty of people with issues, to which this shim has cured. I'm with Max in feeling that even running a SMFW is not ideal on the 02M. As much power as the 02M can handle, it definitely doesn't feel like an _engineered_ part of a system (the car) with an aftermarket clutch.
> ...


Just a .63 35R. I ran 32-34 psi a few times at the track on 110 octane, but never got to stretch her legs on E85 as it was just too much for the street (no need for more boost with FWD and E85 timing). You never came out and said what the issues were with the clutch/02M. I've known about the spacer for quite a while, just the description of it is vague and never saw any posts on it on here (not that I searched). Yeah, the bearing coating doesn't cost much more, but it doesn't provide much more either. No harm either way. :beer:


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

I have followed some of your post before dont be scared im not stocking you lol
But would love to see where this build goes and what hp you pit out good luck dont 
Do what I did boom !!!


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## hunTTsvegas (Aug 27, 2012)

Awesome! Keep it up. This is motivation I need to start tearing mine down. :thumbup:


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

I just realized that I didn't even post a shot of the car!


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Nice - car looks great! 

No reflection of you in the shiny paint... photoshop?


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## 20v GTI Guy (Aug 20, 2001)

Beautiful car and build! :thumbup: 

How are you guaging your rpm? I want to rev higher myself but the gauge only goes to 7500 and I really don't want to put in another gauge. I already have 3 extra.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

20v GTI Guy said:


> Beautiful car and build! :thumbup:
> 
> How are you guaging your rpm? I want to rev higher myself but the gauge only goes to 7500 and I really don't want to put in another gauge. I already have 3 extra.


 Sound/MPH! :laugh: I used to spin to 8400 on the OEM tach.


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## 20v GTI Guy (Aug 20, 2001)

That's incredible. I couldn't make myself rely on my ears for that kind of rpm. 

Speedo... maybe, but yeah, no. haha.


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

this is pretty much how I want to build my motor...:thumbup::thumbup: 

I wanna be just like you when I grow up


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

All_Euro said:


> Nice - car looks great!
> 
> No reflection of you in the shiny paint... photoshop?


 Nope - I'm a photographer, so I watch for stuff like that when I take the shot.  






20v GTI Guy said:


> Beautiful car and build! :thumbup:
> 
> How are you guaging your rpm? I want to rev higher myself but the gauge only goes to 7500 and I really don't want to put in another gauge. I already have 3 extra.


 
Thanks! :beer: I really like my interiors - which is a strong part of my draw towards Audis - so I didn't want a big, ugly tach in the car. I gauge RPM how 20V said - my ears. Obviously, I still have a rev limiter set in Maestro, though. If I keep the car for much longer, I'm going to do a custom dash with a Nexus 7 in it. I can then have all the ODBII gauges on the screen, and use the clean-looking vent gauges that I have now for non-OBDII sensor gauges (probably oil temp and pressure). 





Krissrock said:


> I wanna be just like you when I grow up


 :laugh: :beer:


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## 20v GTI Guy (Aug 20, 2001)

jbrehm said:


> Thanks! :beer: I really like my interiors - which is a strong part of my draw towards Audis - so I didn't want a big, ugly tach in the car. I gauge RPM how 20V said - my ears. Obviously, I still have a rev limiter set in Maestro, though. If I keep the car for much longer, I'm going to do a custom dash with a Nexus 7 in it. I can then have all the ODBII gauges on the screen, and use the clean-looking vent gauges that I have now for non-OBDII sensor gauges (probably oil temp and pressure).


 Wow... that's incredible. good stuff!!!


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## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

Very well done :thumbup:


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

jbrehm said:


> Thanks! :beer: I really like my interiors - which is a strong part of my draw towards Audis - so I didn't want a big, ugly tach in the car. I gauge RPM how 20V said - my ears. Obviously, I still have a rev limiter set in Maestro, though. If I keep the car for much longer, *I'm going to do a custom dash with a Nexus 7 in it.* I can then have all the ODBII gauges on the screen, and use the clean-looking vent gauges that I have now for non-OBDII sensor gauges (probably oil temp and pressure).
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Like the tablet or is there a gauge setup that has the same name?

Build is really clean!

*Edit:*

I was able to find more info. That looks awesome. I have been thinking the same thing when it came to reving that high and not having an accurate way to read RPM/ 

What app would you be using with the Nexus?


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

I already have Torque, so I'd just use that unless I desire some other functionality that I can find in another app. We'll see after I use it daily. That said, I don't really find a need for a tach - I don't think I ever look at one. I just use my ears


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## CPTNHOEK (Oct 21, 2011)

mother of god.

sent from?


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

jbrehm said:


> I already have Torque, so I'd just use that unless I desire some other functionality that I can find in another app. We'll see after I use it daily. That said, I don't really find a need for a tach - I don't think I ever look at one. I just use my ears


Are you using Torque now? Do you already have a bluetooth OBDii reader?


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## jacobm (Aug 5, 2011)

Car looks great. Of all the build threads I've read this is far and away one of my favorites :beer:


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

Thanks guys  I really need to get some more pics of the car and engine bay up!

Yup, currently using Torque, and an Elm 327 Bluetooth OBD2 dongle. I have a VAG-COM, which I consider to be indispensable, but it sure is handy to be able to scan any car with just my phone and the bluetooth dongle.


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

I am going to second the more pictures!! Looks awesome!


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## Ephry73 (Feb 18, 2002)

Updates please.


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Ephry73 said:


> Updates please.


Car was hit and then parted out unfortunately.


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## Ephry73 (Feb 18, 2002)

All_Euro said:


> Car was hit and then parted out unfortunately.


Oh no! ****. Sorry to hear. This was looking like a great build and inspirational.


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

You can click on my A3 Build in my sig for further details on the demise of the TT, and, _eventually_, the completion of an even better build on the wagon.


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