# DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (update)*

So I wanted to post up a comprehensive N249 delete post, because while there are tons of threads and comments about it, there does not seem to be a simple, step-by-step thread for this. If there is, well, here is another for the TT crowd. This is specifically for a 225, but I'm sure the 180 guys will be able to use most or all of this info.
Supplies needed: – I got all the parts from Advance Auto, except the resistor and soldiering iron
- 5mm hex ratchet bit, full ratchet set for hose clamps
- 5/32 and 7/32 vac hose, 4ft of each
- rubber vac nipple covers
- plastic tee assortment
- hose adapter barb – 5/16(?) to 7/32
- small hose clamps (you will also have some stock pinch clamps you can use, but not enough)
- 330ohm 10w resistor (internet)
- soldiering iron, soldier (Radioshack)
- plastic case
- electrical tape
- basic tools (Phillips screwdriver, wire cutters, etc)
* Step 1: Unplug the N249, and unbolt the N249 assembly from the valve cover (5mm hex). Screw the bolts back into the valve cover (VC) so you don’t lose them. You should also disconnect the battery.

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* Step 2: Unbutton the heatshield around the coilpack harness completely, unscrew the ground from the valve cover, and unplug the coilpacks so you have the entire harness free. Use a small hook, blade, or whatever to *gently* cut apart the harness wrap. It comes apart easily, just be careful and take your time. You will have to free it from various clips and sections of the flex cover, but its easy.

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* Step 3: Open your harness up as far as you would like; I opened mine all the way to my valve cover breather port. Notch the plastic flex cover, and follow the N249 plug wires all the way to this notch (the purple and gray wires going off to the left).

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* Step 4: Using electrical tape, wrap the plug wires, starting inside the harness for protection, and then tape them into the notch as seen.

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* Step 5: Tape the N249 plug wires fully, leaving about 6in of exposed wire leading to the plug. Tape the rest of the harness as you see fit; here you can clearly see the coilpack plugs, the now-separate N249 plug, and the N75 on the far right.

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* Step 6: Remove the trim piece on the front of the intake manifold (IM), unplug the plug, and unbolt the plate. On the underside is the N112 valve, which controls SAI.

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* Step 7: (*Ignore the cut-off plug in the picture*) Remove the hose going from the N249 to the top of the DV. The two hoses leading under the IM should be pulled off - one goes to the left underside of the IM, the other connects to the N112 valve. I cut them, but in retrospect it would be better to simply pull the hoses off the N112 and IM.

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* Step 8: Run a 5/32” vac line from your DV nipple to the open port on the underside of the IM. Next to this open port is the FPR hose - remove that from the IM and cut it a few inches from the end. Take the free vac line coming off of your N112 and insert a plastic/brass tee, and tee into your FPR hose. Reattach the end to the IM. You will now have a completed N249 delete. Your DV is running straight off the IM for better valve and boost response, and your N112/SAI still has a vac source so it functions as stock.

* Step 9: Remove the N249 solenoid from the valve cover bracket assembly. Plug the solenoid back in, and use the long lead wiring harness you made to tuck it into the engine bay (keep it away from fans, belts, shifterplate, etc.). This prevents a CEL, and is much better than hacking the harness.

* Step 10: Remove the check valve hose and MAP sensor hose from the left hardline, and run 7/32 vac hose directly from the check valve to the long MAP nipple on the throttle body. In my picture you can see the white-top check valve in the upper-middle, right below where the strut bar is shiny. 

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* Step 10: Disconnect the TIP check valve hose, the hose going from the hardline tee to the VC breather, and the hose coming up from under the intake manifold. Unbolt the hardlines from the valve cover, and replace these bolts like you did for the N249. Here you see the open check valve and VC breather port, and you can also see the lower hose with an inline hose adapter barb. You will need the adapter because the check valve uses a smaller hose than the IM does. Run hose from the check valve to the adapter barb.

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* Step 11: Use a vacuum cap to seal the VC breather port. I also removed the bracket/engine hanger for cosmetics, but do not throw that out, you’ll need it if/when you want to remove the engine. You have now gotten rid of the hardlines (along with the N249), and are finished. 
Look Ma, there is an engine under all that crap!







I have other engine clean-up ideas - I guess since I can't afford a tune I may as well make the engine look pretty









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## turbott920 (Nov 13, 2007)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (l88m22vette)*

looks good nice write up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## MCPaudiTT (Nov 26, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (turbott920)*

You sure that's not a 330 Ohm 10 Watt resistor? 330 W would be fooking huge (as hot at 3-6 light bulbs!!)


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (MCPaudiTT)*

Yep, thanks...It is still big, its a 2in piece of ceramic with two wires coming out


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (l88m22vette)*

great write up...I'm interested in doing because i think it makes a big difference in how the engine looks. I'm not as familiar with the piping as you are in this write up. Do you think you could redo some of the pics with addition of some arrows to clarify things?


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## roadyTT (Mar 28, 2006)

Check this out if you're not into the whole "parts removal and soldering" thing...it can be done with just some extra silicone hose and some insulated bubble wrap.
http://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1798594.phtml


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

so all that one does is extend the lines and move the whole unit in to the battery area?


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## roadyTT (Mar 28, 2006)

*Re: (Krissrock)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Krissrock* »_so all that one does is extend the lines and move the whole unit in to the battery area?

It goes to the battery area if you have a small battery like that one. Otherwise you can relocate most of that to another part of the engine compartment and still maintain your N249 without the electrical workarounds.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (roadyTT)*

I dumped the N249 for engine clean-up and for DV response...I've noticed shifting is smoother, and the response is crisper. I had thought about just relocating it, but for the work involved I'd just ditch it. The whole project cost me >$30...the resistor was only $4 shipped


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (l88m22vette)*

any links to where you purchased the resistor?


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## Rien (Jul 3, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (hootyburra)*

Any CEL's?


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## TSTARKZ123 (Oct 1, 2004)

You're the first 225 I've seen with "push down" coil packs. Otherwise, excellent write up. I didn't bother to move mine to the side, I just did everything right under the intake manifold. I admit, your's looks a bit "cleaner". Good job.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (hootyburra)*

The resistor: Parts Express No CELs so far...also, I'm wondering when push-downs became standard...maybe 2002? My valve cover has the holes for the bolt-downs, but I assumed thats just OEM cost-cutting. 
I have to say, its suprising how much better throttle control is while shifting; I've had my TT for a year and a half, and I thought that I couldn't clutch any better, but now I can







The revs hang right where I want them, and there is none of that "spooky" action that there was with the N249 - I took out the middle man. This combined with my new N75K makes for a very smooth, driveable engine.


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## turbott920 (Nov 13, 2007)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_I'm wondering when push-downs became standard...maybe 2002? 

Mine is an 01 and has the bolt downs so I assume your assumption is correct


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (turbott920)*

Hmm, wonder if its due to VAG switching to Can-bus...that happened in 2002


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## bauch1425 (Jun 29, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (l88m22vette)*

I have a late model '01 (2001.5) and it has push down type. 
Nice write up! I need to start cleaning up my engine bay sometime...


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## turbott920 (Nov 13, 2007)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_Hmm, wonder if its due to VAG switching to Can-bus...that happened in 2002

Have had or heard of any issues with the push down type? Also does anyone know if the push downs will work on with a car made with bolt downs? 
they look quite different









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_Modified by turbott920 at 9:53 PM 9-29-2008_


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (turbott920)*

VAG used the bolt-down threaded holes for the N249 bracket I took off (look between the 2nd and 3rd pack; same diagonal arrangement and VC nut)...You can pretty much swap them, unless you use an AGN or something else. The push-downs just pop into place http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (l88m22vette)*

ordered the resistors, thanks for the link


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## jason bouchard (Aug 25, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (hootyburra)*

(NOOOOOB) what is the reasoning in doing this ?


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## Murderface (Nov 13, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (jason bouchard)*

Jason, it cleans up the cluttered engine bay.

_Quote »_Have had or heard of any issues with the push down type? Also does anyone know if the push downs will work on with a car made with bolt downs? 

Push downs are notorious for popping up and causing misfiring issues. You can switch to earlier ATC/AWD style bolt down coils to cure that...not sure if the AWP style valve cover can accommodate them or not.


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## bauch1425 (Jun 29, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (Murderface)*

AWP can use the bolt downs - same holes as on the 225s. The only problem I've had with the push downs are when they died a "normal" death... they've never popped up on me before.
What is the purpose of the n249 anyway? I suppose I should do a search.


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## Murderface (Nov 13, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (bauch1425)*

N249 lets the ECU control DV for boost control at part throttle and also throwing you into limp mode.


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## Rien (Jul 3, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (Murderface)*

Any CEL's yet?.... Okay.. how about now?


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## RonN (Feb 15, 2001)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (Rien)*

Nice write up. My car is a 2002 and has bolt down coils and is not can-bus. Just thought I'd throw in that wrench. Manufacturer date of 04/02.


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

what i'm interested in how N249 functions? and if it can be removed, how does that N112 function, controlling the DV? 
I'm assuming there's nothing electronically functional about it if a resistor can put it in it's place. So basically that connection is just for the computer to know that it's there?


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (Krissrock)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Krissrock* »_what i'm interested in how N249 functions? and if it can be removed, how does that N112 function, controlling the DV? 
I'm assuming there's nothing electronically functional about it if a resistor can put it in it's place. So basically that connection is just for the computer to know that it's there?


_Quote, originally posted by *Murderface* »_N249 lets the ECU control DV for boost control at part throttle and also throwing you into limp mode.

The N112 controls the SAI, its tapped into a vac source that the N249 uses as well (thats why there is a check valve (CV)). You can see the N112 hose in the pic below, its the right-middle hose between the IM runners, and connects right before the check valve. When the N112 needs vac, that CV opens...notice how it looks like a baby DV? 








The point of the resistor is to trick the ECU into thinking the N249 is there - its just to prevent a CEL. You can actually use the same resistor to delete the N112, but improper flow codes would still throw a CEL, so deleting SAI is more complicated (ie you need a tune).


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*

Just a note on the coilpacks. The Beru push downs are nowhere near as reliable as the bolt down Hitachi's. Having been around TT's which used the Hitachis for many years now - there are rarely stories of coilpacks failing on the 225's and early 180's which used the Hitachis. While there are occasional failures - it is nowhere near the failure rate of the push down packs.
I just lost another coilpack - it had about 20k on it and was the latest "R" revision for pushdowns. Needless to say - I ordered a set of "E" bolt down Hitachi's.


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*

joe what's your feeling on this mod? I thought a saw a posting by you on another forum warning against it?


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: (Krissrock)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Krissrock* »_joe what's your feeling on this mod? I thought a saw a posting by you on another forum warning against it?


I'm not a big fan of it - since it does provide some protection from overboosting and possible turbo damage. Lots of people have done it though and have had no problems. As an example - on a recent trip - I had my coil pack go, got into some weird boost issues and threw an N249 code and boost regulation code. I did get the #4 cylinder misfire but thought it was due to some major boost leak - turns out it was a bad coilpack. If I kept the car under 15psi I was ok - if I went over - misfire etc. A couple times - the car hit limp before I realized this - which is the part of the function of the N249. While i'm no expert - knowing that the safeguard was in place - I felt more comfortable driving with it knowing that the car would limit boost and keep me for doing any damage if the misfire situation got any worse.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Thing is I'm still stock tune with intake, turbo-back, and N75K, so over-boosting isn't really a problem...I hold 17psi while flooring it. While I understand the idea of the safeguard, I'm not too worried based on the number of 1.8T guys that have gotten rid of it and had no problems. My engine feels so much better without the N249; clutch uptake is more linear because its a direct vac connection, blow-off is much more crisp, and cruising is great - I can feel the slightest difference in throttle response in 5th no problem. The reason I haven't tuned yet is because I want to iron out all the little stuff first, and this mod is a great example of a little being a lot http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*

how you holding 17? MBC?


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (Krissrock)*

Nope, the N75K and my full exhaust. I used to spike at 21psi with my stock N75, but the K prevents boost spike while increasing midrange. I thought I heard somewhere that the K has a higher sampling rate...my stocker felt like it would lose control, and then dial back the boost. I like it, but I'll have to see how the K works when I get tuned...


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*

so your full exhaust was allowing your to overspool? Cause I assume going to 21 w/o a chip is not purposeful...
So you got the n75k which controlled it better, (i'm assuming increased the duty cycle) and now you hold 17? 
I have a H i believe and I only 15 on occasion...now with my EBC running parallel to it, I can hit 17 and hold for a couple of secs before it would start to drop back down or hit soft limp. 
i could do 17 fine running the EBC independently, but the boost was erratic at partial throttle with a load (uphill)...so I run them parallel which makes it stock like driving with higher peak when on the pedal.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (Krissrock)*

Just to bump this, I still am CEL-free after a month and a half http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I also took out the n75k cause my gas mileage was suffering, but I'm going to hang onto it until I get tuned...


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## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

im glad you bumped this badboy thread XD nice job. 
for those who have 180's there is a writeup for a complete N112, N249, SAI delete and instructions etc. i think its in the 1.8T forum FAQ. detailed with diff pics, but i like the simplicity of the OP http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (DurTTy)*

Thats where I got at least some of the info, but thanks...there are pics and an explaination, but Sav's thread is for people who don't worry about CELs or the like; I just wanted to post a step-by-step DIY because its better than trying to put together the procedure from multiple thread comments


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## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

yea thats his name didnt want to misspell it LOL
i hear ya on the multipost part, thats why i this si a great, simple and well put together post. 
FYI all the CEL problems from SAVs writeup have been fixed and dealt with via the same resistor concepts used in your DIY 
I personally have to get around to doingthe same, mine beign a 2000, a lot fo the hoses comin in and to the N249 are slowly becomign brittle 
so once again tnx and keep up the good work 










_Modified by DurTTy at 7:19 PM 11-12-2008_


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (DurTTy)*

EVAP may have been fixed with the resistor, but you cannot fix the N112/SAI simply with it, because not only is the ECU looking for the N112, it also has readiness codes for the pump flow, and will throw a CEL if they are non-existent. Many tunes can get rid of the readiness crap, and a Vortex member by the name of reflected can hex edit your stock ECU if you want to worry about engine clean-up first (he cannot do a tuned ECU because he has to reflash it, and would lose the tune)


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## Xtremery (Sep 30, 2002)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*

this is perfect timing, thanks for doing this DIY!


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_EVAP may have been fixed with the resistor, but you cannot fix the N112/SAI simply with it, because not only is the ECU looking for the N112, it also has readiness codes for the pump flow, and will throw a CEL if they are non-existent. Many tunes can get rid of the readiness crap, and a Vortex member by the name of reflected can hex edit your stock ECU if you want to worry about engine clean-up first (he cannot do a tuned ECU because he has to reflash it, and would lose the tune) 

This is true on the AWW/AWP 1.8T motors:
DO NOT REMOVE THE N112 and SAI without resistors in place!
You lose your adaptive O2 functionality, and your car will get horribly slow. It literally breaks it, somewhere the ECU is dependant upon the N112 circuit being completed for the adaptive O2 regulation to work.
Your car will run lean and you can blow it up.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*

Didn't know that...


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_Didn't know that...


A lot of folks do not. But it is key to do it right.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*

Thing is, the flow codes will still throw a CEL, but at least it won't break anything


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_Thing is, the flow codes will still throw a CEL, but at least it won't break anything


Yep, that is a problem for OBD scans. But well you know. You will still have adaptive O2.


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*

Since people don't respond to IM's - does anyone who's done this on an AMU engine have the n249 bracket. I need the AMU one since I've switched to bolt down coilpacks and my BEA bracket won't allow the engine cover to be put back on. I've got a smog check coming up and want the engine cover on. Thanks!


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

*Re: ([email protected])*

FWIW I have BEA with Hitachi as well with no bracket, still able to run with cover with no problem as long as your 2 front screws and back slide clip by charge pipe is in properly. It some what floats over right side of engine just fine.


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: (TToxic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TToxic* »_FWIW I have BEA with Hitachi as well with no bracket, still able to run with cover with no problem as long as your 2 front screws and back slide clip by charge pipe is in properly. It some what floats over right side of engine just fine.


So you took the bracket off completely? The issue is the vacuum cannister sits up too high blocking the tab on the cover from being able to slip onto the bracket. If I need to, I might remove the bracket just for the smog test


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

*Re: ([email protected])*

I must of missed you still have canister,what you descibed will definitly work simply wire tie canister off for test so it's not suspect and bangin around you'll be fine.


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: (TToxic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TToxic* »_I must of missed you still have canister,what you descibed will definitly work simply wire tie canister off for test so it's not suspect and bangin around you'll be fine.

Yeah - I don't want to mess with anything as it all works right and with the smog test coming I want to make sure I have no issues. I'll check it out this weekend. in the long term though - i'd like to have it secured on the bracket.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Sorry, just got your IMs Joe...I have a BEA, so my bracket wouldn't work. Can anyone post up a pic of the AMU one?


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_Sorry, just got your IMs Joe...I have a BEA, so my bracket wouldn't work. Can anyone post up a pic of the AMU one? 

NP - I am going to assume it's just shorter so that that cannister is lower on the bracket. The bolt ons add about 1/4 of height - which is just enough to mess with the fit.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Couldn't you just spacer a BEA bracket?


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_Couldn't you just spacer a BEA bracket?

Nope - the cannister is the issue - the tab of the bracket is too low and is virtually flush with the top of the cannister. It would fit no problem without the cannister but there is no way to lower the cannister and still bolt it to the bracket or raise the tab for a permanent solution. I need to double check it this weekend though to make sure I didn't put something in wrong.


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Post a pic? I'am pretty familiar with this area on BEA, somethings not right. If the mounting ear of coil has bracket on top, this is it.


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: (TToxic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TToxic* »_Post a pic? I'am pretty familiar with this area on BEA, somethings not right. If the mounting ear of coil has bracket on top, this is it.

The more I think about this - the less it makes sense - LOL. IIRC the cannister attaches to the bracket with a fixed stud and a nut - so it's location relative to the rest of the bracket shouldn't have changed.








Well i'm working on the car on Friday so I'll look into it further. I tried to fit the cover just briefly the other day and noticed it wouldn't fit at that location. ODD


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Are you just using the cover to be as stock-looking as possible?


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_Are you just using the cover to be as stock-looking as possible?

Yes - i'll be putting in my stock DV and air box. If they lift the hood they won't see anything out of the ordinary. 
I took a quick peek today under the hood and there is definitely a smaller gap between the bracket tab and the cannister. Again - I need to just take it apart to see.


_Modified by [email protected] at 6:01 PM 11-26-2008_


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*

I'm actually putting my stock airbox back in, I'm sick of making a bunch of noise for no good reason







I assume you'll be ok if the N249 stuff is basically right and you use the cover.


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*

Ok - yes i'm a tard! LOL
The cannister has a "clip" in the rear that slides into a slot - it was resting on top of the slot. I unbolted it and reset it and it's fine. The top of the N249 now hits the cover a bit - but no biggie will be fine. I also noticed in pics of the AMUs the N249 is mounted a bit different as well - so that combined with the shorter bracket allow it to fit without hitting the cover.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Nice, hope the dealer doesn't notice...


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## 225TTRoadster (Oct 24, 2007)

looks great... someone explain why we delete the N249 now?


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (225TTRoadster)*

I did it to clean up my engine bay (aka as clean as possible, no garbage hiding the basic engine), but it also helped in boost response and control, AND I got mostly rid of the sound I have when I'm at 0 vac/boost (kind of a honking sound, I assume from the transitional point of pressures). Anyway, the car is better for it, and now I can install my AGN as soon as I weld on a support bracket or two


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## 225TTRoadster (Oct 24, 2007)

ok I get the cleanliness part.... It does look great BTW. (see I can use acronyms too!) 
WHAT DOES AGN mean ! 
OMG STP USNG ACNYMS!!!! SRSLY!


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (225TTRoadster)*

Its the valve cover off of the 1.8 liter AGN engine Volkswagen used in Europe...its super smooth, not like the raw, chunky Original Equipment Manufacturer Tourist Trophy one.








BTW, the original sentence read "Its the VC off of the VW EDM 1.8 NA AGN engine...its super smooth, not like the raw, chunky OEM TT one." Is that better?


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## 225TTRoadster (Oct 24, 2007)

ok yes... that is also clean. would not go through the trouble myself but... yes. 
NOW... N75Race question. Car used to peak at 20-21ish and taper just below 15. With the install of the race and the MBC just right It will still peak at 20-21ish and taper to 16 and hold momentarily but will taper down past 13psi. (therefore loosing lots of top end power... almost like it falls on its face after 5500ish rpm)
I was going to install a TIB thinking it was colapsing under the higher boost. Then I read that the N249 has a little to do with over boost regulation.


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## robingohtt (Nov 6, 2005)

*Re: (225TTRoadster)*

great stuff


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## searya (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (l88m22vette)*

In case others having a hard finding the hoses unter the Intake Manifold (IM) mentioned in steps 7 and 12, they are are the far left side of the intake manifold (while looking down on it from the front of the car). 
The N249 vacuum line (step 7) is attached to the barb closest to the bumber and the Fuel Pressure line (step 12) is directly behind it as you move your hand toward the passenger seat (this one was a pain to remove and then re-attach - small hands help here).
Thanks for the write up! It is great stuff and I am excited to have a clean engine, less vacuum lines to track down leaks and easier access to my 3rd and 4th spark plugs.


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## salx (Sep 29, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (searya)*

I've been wondering.
What would happen if I just kill the hose that conects the botton of the manifold to the n249 ?
The selenoid would still on the system, but would not receive any air from the manifold, ... the manifold would hold pressure , right?


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (salx)*

No, you plumb the diverter valve directly to the intake manifold and remove the whole n249 assembly. In my OP I cut the wires and soldiered in a resistor but you really just need to leave the solenoid plugged in (remove hoses b/c they are useless at this point, and cap off any open ports on the manifold to maintain vac/boost). Its also nice to remove the n249/plate assembly because there is nothing blocking the coilpacks if they need quick replacement http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## fastgtidevil (Jan 7, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (l88m22vette)*

hi, i did the N249 bypass 2 weeks ago , the valve is just plug on the electric part , but im having a vag com error N249 MALFUNTION and N249 open circuit. why? did i do something wrong? can someone help what can i do correct this.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (fastgtidevil)*

Do you have pics of the setup?


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## aforsberg (Nov 11, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (l88m22vette)*

Nice job bro. Gotta say though, Different setup then 1-8 engine completely.


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (aforsberg)*

holy...i can't beleive this thread is still kickin!


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (Krissrock)*

Thanks! Thread relevancy FTW


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## robingohtt (Nov 6, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (l88m22vette)*

nice thread! gonna do this soon


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## jetta2.8 (May 18, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Engine Clean-up Pt. 1 - N249 delete (robingohtt)*

Nice writeup. May be a future project for me


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## robingohtt (Nov 6, 2005)

wish there will more diagrams..cleaned up and organized neatly in the FAQ


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## ShockwaveCS (Jun 22, 2006)

I did this, pretty easy and SOOO much easier to change spark plugs


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

bump for updates


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## coachvtt (Jan 16, 2008)

*My N249 delete! with Pic's*

Is this right? The hoses from DV to intake mani -under-?

http://s816.photobucket.com/albums/zz85/coachvtt/?action=view&current=EGRN249Delete1.jpg
http://s816.photobucket.com/albums/...5/coachvtt/?action=view&current=IMG00198.jpg&
http://s816.photobucket.com/albums/...achvtt/?action=view&current=DVhosetoTee1.jpg&
http://s816.photobucket.com/albums/...tt/?action=view&current=DiodeModLocation.jpg&
http://s816.photobucket.com/albums/...t/?action=view&current=CloseupofDiodeMod.jpg&


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Yep, looks correct


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## VelveTTrevolvr (Jul 31, 2009)

Or.. You all can keep the N249 and just relocate it :thumbup:

DIY:

http://forums.quattroworld.com/tt/msgs/106687.phtml


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## coachvtt (Jan 16, 2008)

*Ok!*



l88m22vette said:


> Yep, looks correct


I will be putting the tee connect under the mani and I think I will hide the diode, under the charge pipe!

Thanks! Runs like a raped ape!


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## crzygreek (Jul 8, 2005)

L88m22, I will be completing the n249 delete tomorrow along with the wastegate spring mod. Can you clarify if it is necessary to delete the hardlines running on the side of the VC to completely delete the n249 or was this an extra step you took to clean up the bay?


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

bauch1425 said:


> I have a late model '01 (2001.5) and it has push down type.
> Nice write up! I need to start cleaning up my engine bay sometime...


 I have a 2002 and it has bolt down coils. 

Edit: wow thread from the dead on this one... A+ to you sir for searching


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Its part of the overall clean-up, at the end of the day though if you're going to do part of the clean-up, just do it all at once because its less effort than partly hacking stuff to work. Good luck on the job, glad to see this is being used :thumbup:


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## toy4two2 (Feb 6, 2012)

does this have any negative effects for emissions testing? 

I would like to do it here in Cali, I think I could easily pass visual since its hidden but not sure what happens to NOx and CO2


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## cssandeep (Mar 12, 2015)

*Help needed for fault codes*

I have the following codes thrown by my octavia mk1 vrs AUM 2005 model, 63000 kms done till date.

The following codes keep appearing after every 200-250 kms of driving:

_3 Faults Found:
17608 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249) 
P1200 - 35-00 - Mechanical Malfunction
16795 - Secondary Air Injection System 
P0411 - 35-00 - Incorrect Flow Detected
17544 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Add) 
P1136 - 35-00 - System too Lean
Readiness: 0000 1101
_ 

I have, after consulting the forum and some other online forums BYPASSED N249 valve, but still, after every 200-250 kms, the CEL comes back on, and has to be deleted through the vag com cable.

Pls suggest what should I do to permanently get rid of this CEL.

I have got a forge 007 dv fitted in place of the stock diaphragm one.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Did you use a resistor or just leave it plugged in? If it's just plugged in the valve itself might be bad, or the CEL could be on because that code is tied to another condition. From what you listed it sounds like a vacuum or PCV issue


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## cssandeep (Mar 12, 2015)

l88m22vette said:


> Did you use a resistor or just leave it plugged in? If it's just plugged in the valve itself might be bad, or the CEL could be on because that code is tied to another condition. From what you listed it sounds like a vacuum or PCV issue


I left the N249 plugged in. Initially, left all the connections open, but later, after further reading created a loop using one nozzle on the side and one beneath the N249.

If the valve is plugged in, would it matter if it is bad?

How to determine if its a vacuum or a PCV issue? Please excuse me for these questions, since I know nothing about technical issues.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Check for cracked hoses and PCV parts in the engine bay, do a smoke test to find leaks if there are not any obvious problems, make sure all the hoses and clamps are on properly. A N249 would throw a code if it went bad since it is still part of the ECU program, you leave it plugged in because it is part of the closed-loop readiness. At the same time, I have never heard of using a hose on the disconnected valve so maybe try taking it off first? If you really want you could test the voltage with a multimeter but you can find a used N249 for cheap online to just try replacing it. 

Order:
- remove n249 hose
- check connections, hoses, PCV system
- smoke test engine to see if any leaks show up

Can you post a few pics of your engine bay? What's the mileage of the car?


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## cssandeep (Mar 12, 2015)

l88m22vette said:


> Check for cracked hoses and PCV parts in the engine bay, do a smoke test to find leaks if there are not any obvious problems, make sure all the hoses and clamps are on properly. A N249 would throw a code if it went bad since it is still part of the ECU program, you leave it plugged in because it is part of the closed-loop readiness. At the same time, I have never heard of using a hose on the disconnected valve so maybe try taking it off first? If you really want you could test the voltage with a multimeter but you can find a used N249 for cheap online to just try replacing it.
> 
> Order:
> - remove n249 hose
> ...


I have tried visual checking of the engine bay and all seems good to the eye.

How do I do a smoke test. Pls guide.

I used this as guidance for the delete DIY
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/442614-*DIY*-B5-1-8T-Vacuum-Check-Valve-SAI-PCV-Delete-amp-Simplification

I would greatly appreciate any help and guidance on solving this issue.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)




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## Imolafem (Nov 5, 2016)

Sorry for reviving an old thread. When you mention plugging the VC breather, wouldn't this be an issue? Would it raise the pressure too much for the motor?


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