# *The unofficial VR supercharged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera



## hover (Mar 9, 2005)

Alright, while this is the FI forum, loads of the talk and info in here is about turbos. Searching through the archives and various conversations via phone and IMs leads me to believe that there are more supercharged VRs in here that one would suspect. Also, for one contemplating a supercharger setup for their VR, information is not nearly as accessible as information about turbocharger systems. 
So. Here's the rules:
*Post what setup you are running.*
-If you've changed pullies, gears, whatever, please post that as well. 
*Post any dyno reuslts you might have.*
-If you have changed your setup since the dyno, please post your setup at the time of the dyno.
*Post any track times you might have.*
-Dragstrip results only preferably, as not everyone can compare road course times or autocross times on different circuits
*Post any information you have that one might consider useful.*
-Feel free to IM me with other links and information as well, and I will add them with credit to you.
_*No nudity.*_
*No OT turbo BS. *








Hopefully, we can get a thread going with some good information in it, and maybe get it added to the FAQ.









**Also, this thread is a work in progress. If there is something you feel should be added, be it a link, book, or another site; please either post it or IM me, and I'll add it. This thread is intended to reference tool for all of us, and especially the new people looking into supercharger systems for their VR.
Thanks for your contributions.
-Chad*
**all underlined words or phrases in my posts are clickable links*

*300 Club*
"300 Club Top 10"
12v VR6 Engines
1. LSinLV : 342whp/289wtq (Dynotjet) DynoVortech V2SQ Chargercrank/direct charger drive via custom VFE kit (stg IV)
2. groupracer: 313whp/240wtq (DynoDynamics)(V9 Charger)(Cogged)
3. Scooter98144: 310whp/265wtq(Dynojet)(V1 Charger)
4. -Throttle- : 303whp/233wtq (Dynojet)(V1 Charger) 
5. SUPERCHARGED-JETTA : 301.7whp/254wtq (Mustang)(V1 Charger)
6. CorradoMagic :301whp(298whp with fuel issue) (Mustang)(V1 Charger) (Cogged)
7. RedRabbit118: 318whp (DynoDynamics) V2-T charger, 2.5" pulley, big fmic, 42#green top inj. DTA pro8 standalone, SRI, walbro in-line 255, 9:1 compression
8.
9.
10. 



_Modified by hover at 8:03 PM 11-16-2009_


----------



## hover (Mar 9, 2005)

*dyno results and supercharger setups*

*Recommended reading:*
*Superchargers, what they are and now they work:*
Superchargers on Wikipedia
How a Supercharger works, thanks to European Car
_Supercharged! : Design, Testing, and Installation of Supercharger Systems_ by Corky Bell, this is not a link, it is a book, and I highly recommend it, along with his other books.
*Threads:*
Best thread on vortex about turbo vs. super Please don't make a new one. Thank you.
Difference in Vortech superchargers.
*This thread is a work in progress. If you have any links or other recommended reading materials, please either post them, or IM me, and I will add them to the list.*



_Modified by hover at 7:31 PM 4-14-2008_


----------



## hover (Mar 9, 2005)

*supercharger kits*

*Supercharger kits available:*
*VF Engineering* is currently the only producer of off the shelf supercharger kits that are available new. These kits use the Vortech V9 blower.
*C2* produced supercharger kits for the VR. They do not anymore, please don't call Chris and ask him if they still do, if they have any extras laying around, or if they are going to put them back into production. They don't and they aren't. These kits used the Vortech V1-S or the Vortech V2-SQ blower. 
*AMS* also produced a supercharger kit. This was another Vortech based kit that used a V1 blower. I'm still researching more about this kit, and will edit the post with more information later.
*Z-engineering*'s did not use a Vortech unit, but their own supercharger instead. Most people's complaints about the Z-engineering kit were directed towards the software.
*
*still working on completing list, please IM me with details on what I have left out. I know there are a few that aren't on the list. -Chad*
*Four Season Tuning*, a very reputable business is now catering more to the SC crowd. They have brackets, belts, pistons, DVs, pretty much anything you could need, along with a whole slew of other things that we all just want. Thanks Guys. Check their thread here or their website by clicking on their name. 



_Modified by hover at 11:00 PM 5-10-2009_


----------



## hover (Mar 9, 2005)

*DIY supercharger setup kit*

*Great threads to view*
Dyno result and info thread in the dyno sub-forum of vortex
Supercharger pic thread Thanks to sweep'n'streets for getting this one started.
300 WHP with a Vortech SC props to CorradoMagic. 
*If you would like a thread included in this list, please IM me, or post a link, and I'll add it. Thanks.
*


_Modified by hover at 10:28 AM 4-24-2008_


----------



## hover (Mar 9, 2005)

*recommended reading*

*DIY Install of Supercharger*
DIY list for using Vortech unit on a VR, courtesy of V.E.N.O.M.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4144216


_Modified by hover at 8:00 PM 11-16-2009_


----------



## hover (Mar 9, 2005)

*Upgrading Your Supercharger Setup*

*Making more power and avoiding belt slip, how to upgrade your supercharger setup*
*
For Vortech based systems:*
Replacement pulleys are available through a number of vendors: C2, Vortech themselves, and VF Engineering being some of the most popular companies.
Cogged setup to eliminate belt slip by DeckManDubs. These pulleys are available now through Verdict Motorsports
*Supercharger stages*
Superchargers stages broken down by DeckManDubs



_Modified by hover at 10:20 PM 5-10-2009_


----------



## hover (Mar 9, 2005)

*Re: supercharger kits (hover)*

room for expansion, still a work in progress. 
Although I am adding information as I can to this thread, all contributions and discussion, as well as any information you have about your setup is more than welcome in the thread. I know enough to know that I don't know it all. Some weighing in by those more knowledgeable and experienced with supercharging the VR would be great.
Thanks.
-Chad



_Modified by hover at 7:43 PM 4-14-2008_


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: supercharger kits (hover)*

02 12V VR6
Just purchased a Stage II VF kit as well as a Samco hose kit, new crack pipe, thermo housing and all parts attached, phenolic spacer, dropped in the NGK BKR7EIX plugs and converted the coilpack to MSD coils.
Crack pipe, phenolic spacer and thermo housing are in. MSDs are wired up and will be put in once the other stuff is here. 
Just waiting for shipment to arrive.
Great thread, I'll post up pics once I start getting the charger in there, as so far, just looks like a torn up engine bay.


----------



## hover (Mar 9, 2005)

*Re: supercharger kits (hover)*








Been sick, haven't added much, so here's a bump. Still waiting for others to chime in.


----------



## gannonjf (Sep 11, 2007)

*Re: supercharger kits (hover)*

Agreed, more info would be great. I'm pretty sure I am going to go with a charger rather then turbos so I'm doing all my homework now while I wait for money to collect in the bank


----------



## hover (Mar 9, 2005)

*Re: supercharger kits (gannonjf)*

Anything you are looking for specifically? If so, I can see if I can help find it, and maybe add it to the thread. 
I would like for this thread to be a resource for those thinking about supercharging theirs cars, and even of use for those who have been around for some time.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: supercharger kits (hover)*

Info like different plugs (I went with the BKR7EIX) and if the oil weight should be changed, does it need more with the charger on it.
Maybe if there are links to any info on the installation of this stuff as although my kit is on the way, I'd like to know what to expect when it gets here.
Anything like that would be great. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Grits 'n gravy (Mar 30, 2004)

*Re: supercharger kits (dasGolf01)*

Z-Engineering uses their own chargers, not vortech units.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: supercharger kits (Grits 'n gravy)*

wow, this is a heck of a thread. good stuff. perhaps sticky material?


----------



## CorradoSLC (Jan 20, 2000)

*Re: supercharger kits (Noobercorn)*

I have an OBDII Eurotech V2 kit. It runs the 4bar FPR, ~8spi pulley, V2 SQ charger, and colder plugs. Understand the P.O. put down 245whp several years ago.
Relevant info: uses K&N RC-3180 intake filter directly on the charger (appears to need 5/8" vacuum plug on the end of the filter)
Currently uses Bosch F6DTC plugs; interested in trying NGKs the next time around
Current dyno pending...


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: supercharger kits (CorradoSLC)*

i would like to see pix of your setup please.


----------



## CorradoSLC (Jan 20, 2000)

*Re: supercharger kits (Noobercorn)*

voila








Not nearly as impressive as your SLC setup from what I hear, but fun as a daily driver nonetheless


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: supercharger kits (CorradoSLC)*

any close ups of the compressor side? what software are you running? 
thanks for the pic, and compliment. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## CorradoSLC (Jan 20, 2000)

*Re: supercharger kits (Noobercorn)*

That's really the only engine shot I have, unfortunately.
Software is a Eurotech OBD II chip from back in the day. By all accounts it shoudn't work (stock injector capacity, MAF after the charger, etc.), but it does. From fun runs to driving my son to daycare every day.
Need to get it up to NGP for a dyno run one of these days, but maintaining two SLCs in addition keeps time and money short.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: supercharger kits (CorradoSLC)*

Nice looking setup, Corrados are sweet and yellow, even better. Once my kit gets here and I have it all slapped on, I'll have pics.
Anyhow have an answer to change in oil weight or amount? Just so I can be prepared for when the kit gets here.
Thanks! 
edit: That's not a rado, sorry.. just looked at the body.. made an assumption from your SN.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

94 Corrado OBD1 Coilpack, ECU 258BA. 30# Bosch inj./chip. 4Bar Corrado intank & FPR
C2 Kit with V1 charger & Custom cogged pulleys by DeckmanDubs
Car has PS, AC, etc. 
14psi/20 tooth pulley
Eliminated EGR & disconnected ISV
Inline Bosch 044
custom tuned by Jeff Atwood/C2 @ EPLabs.com
301whp/271tq

Install thread with pics and 1st start vids as well as additional tips here~ http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2932002



_Modified by CorradoMagic at 12:20 AM 4-23-2008_


----------



## hover (Mar 9, 2005)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

And yours is the car I'm waiting to see the results on.







Very similar to one set of the plans that I have for the Golf. Only time will tell what happens of course, but I'm thinking of doing the same cogged pullies, a V1, and a few other things.


----------



## Acri2903 (Oct 13, 2004)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (hover)*

96 gti
- 12v vr6 from mkIV
- v2 polished charger
- c2 software
- 8 psi pulley
- stock injectors
- has p/s, no a/c
- neuspeed catback
- arp hardware
- kinetic headspacer
no dyno or track numbers for me. i just enjoy driving








car runs great and is very daily drivable with this setup. def. fun for those who don't need gobs of power all the time. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by Acri2903 at 1:10 PM 4-17-2008_


----------



## CorradoSLC (Jan 20, 2000)

*Re: supercharger kits (dasGolf01)*

Thanks...the original owner took great care of it and did all the hard work.
For oil, I use 5w-40 Elf synthetic, and change it every 6mos or 3k (I don't put that many miles on it). Same amount as stock.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: supercharger kits (CorradoSLC)*

Awesome, thanks for the tips and info.
I'll be ready to flush/pull the oil pan when tapping it for the return line.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
At least that's what I'm guessing I'll have to tap the oil pan for (like I said, no installation instructions out there pre to getting the kit, just what I've heard of and such, and I'm not sure how much different the MKIV is from others.)


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

*Re: supercharger kits (CorradoSLC)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoSLC* »_Software is a Eurotech OBD II chip from back in the day. By all accounts it shoudn't work (stock injector capacity, MAF after the charger, etc.), but it does. From fun runs to driving my son to daycare every day.

I wouldn't say that it shouldn't work. Yes in the C2 era post blower MAF's and stock injectors are frowned upon, but many companies used those combo's when vr's started getting blown, and they have been proven.
I was having problems w/ my old ecu or chip (GIAC 30# obd2) and i sourced an AMS tuned ecu from the OG kit, and threw the stock injectors back in. thing runs like stock, still pulls pretty damn hard too. I do get some timing pull way up in the rpms, which may be due to leaning out, but the tune is still really good. I'm sure some fpr tweaking could get it to a happy place.
I'm going to be trying an ATP 30# chip soon, also a post blower maf file, which I've heard has put down pretty good power, and great driveability.
I'm:
AMS kit w/ a V1 (rebuilt)
OBD2 swap
Neuspeed 60mm catback
passat 3.38 box
"stock" 8psi (can see 10 @ redline) ams pulley
thinking about dyno'ing these changes for info, but like my man above, I'm all about enjoying the drive, and not concerned w/ #'s. I think its a common theme w/ s/c peeps...


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: supercharger kits (dasGolf01)*

Some V9 8.5psi A/F & Dyno numbers, pulls were done on EPL's Mustang Dyno.
V9 8.5psi Dizzy
Cogged Pulley Set
2.9 Clone Manifold
Port-matched Head and Manifold
Stock Cams

































Now, Dyno #'s to follow



_Modified by DeckManDubs at 12:06 PM 4-18-2008_


----------



## CorradoSLC (Jan 20, 2000)

*Re: supercharger kits (ThaCorradoKid)*

Yes, you summed it up better than I did - I completely agree with you...if it works, it works.
The main reason I'm interested in dynoing (okay, aside from curiosity) is to check the A/F ratios. My in-car gauge always shows rich under boost, but we'll see.
Either way, it is definitely fun with the blower...


----------



## hover (Mar 9, 2005)

*Re: supercharger kits (Grits 'n gravy)*


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: supercharger kits (hover)*

Still waiting on VF to get my kit shipped to me, could show up Friday, could show up Monday, of course then I'm out of town from Tuesday until next Monday. Have everything else buttoned up, though. Phenolic spacer, new coolant stuff, starter fix, bunch of other maintenance, dying for my ride to be alive again. Waiting sucks. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## hover (Mar 9, 2005)

*Re: supercharger kits (dasGolf01)*

CorradoMagic's numbers are in..... 300+ WHP with a Vortech SC.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: supercharger kits (hover)*

Anyone here running the MKIV 12V S/C? I was mounting the charger yesterday and wasn't able to detension it enough to get the belt on. The drain fitting/elbow bumps my front chassis pinch weld before it can detension completely.
Any ideas? Or should I just try to... pry the belt on, as it were. I'm afraid of damaging the belt, though. 
Anyhow, the wiper reservoir is relocated and dripping in one spot, have to seal up one place.
PSR is relocated and that was easy enough.
MAF is relocated. MAF Clamp is wired in there, but haven't wired in switched power or ground yet until I figure out where I want to place it.
Injectors are in and fuel rail is back on, had a lower intake manifold bolt shear as I think my torque wrench failed so I'm waiting on a new one of those before I can get the upper intake manifold on, the front clip back and then start fitting the charge piping and what not.
I must say I'm not horribly pleased with having to tap the block, thought it was the pan, but apparently not. That's the next step today, though. Drop the pan, tap the block, route the drain and feed hoses and see if I can get the charger set again and the belt on. 
Any help or advice would be highly appreciated. Cheers http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
edit: I think they sent me a belt that's too short as I finally got the belt on with absolutely no ability to "tension" or move the blower. Anyhow, will call VF tomorrow. 


_Modified by dasGolf01 at 10:13 PM 4-27-2008_


----------



## thisismike (Aug 30, 2006)

*Re: supercharger kits (dasGolf01)*

i just got my supercharger on and only been driving it for about a week. its a v9 with a 2.5 pulley. c2 36lb tune. c2 quickflow intake manifold. port and polished head and yeterday i ordered the sp 263 turbo cams. next i want to put some headers on it and take the cat off. i have no pictures or numbers right now. but i hope to after i get what i want done.


----------



## MR 2.GO (Apr 10, 2007)

*Re: supercharger kits (thisismike)*

Anyone running nitrous on ther chargers?


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: supercharger kits (MR 2.GO)*

Hey guys I know the n's and out's on the s/c set up im if you need help or have a question. Check sig for specs


----------



## hover (Mar 9, 2005)

*Re: supercharger kits (SUPERCHARGED-JETTA)*

Can you post more about your setup? The numbers you are claiming seem a little higher than most hit. Thanks.


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: supercharger kits (hover)*

Ya the numbers are there look at the trap speed 116.5 and i have been faster than thay already this year. Know anyone else running 11's in a corrado with 11.5 psi?


----------



## hover (Mar 9, 2005)

*Re: supercharger kits (SUPERCHARGED-JETTA)*

I actually don't know anyone laying down 360whp with a V1 at 11.5 PSI, that's why I asked for more information about your setup. I'm really not trying to call you out or start some silly e-war, I'm just curious as to the rest of your setup that enables you to make and run those kind of numbers.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: supercharger kits (hover)*

I don't doubt he's making some power but I would highly doubt 360whp on a dynojet for several reasons. One is the trap speed. Our cars weigh roughly the same. I make 274whp and trap just under 113mph. 85 more whp and only trapping 116.5? I don't think I've even seen a VRT get close to 360whp at 11.5psi
Jettset made 300whp at 10.5 psi, IC, short runner, 3" exhaust
Throttle made 286whp at ~11.5psi, non IC, cams, 2.5 straight through
Where is the extra 60-75whp coming from? If I had to guess that car is making between 310 and 330 whp on a dynojet. That's based on the setup, trap speed, and weight. Not hating the setup either by the way. It just doesn't add up. AWE tuning has a Mustang that dynos high so I think it depends on the dyno.


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: supercharger kits (slc92)*

My car was dynoed on a mustang dyno i was told to add 15% to get dynojet figures. I guess i wont know for sure untill i dyno on a dynojet. So if that helps everyone good, I just want to get deeper in the 11's


----------



## MR 2.GO (Apr 10, 2007)

*Re: supercharger kits (SUPERCHARGED-JETTA)*

I met a guy @ show n go lastmonth had a yellow gti his name was Rob didn't catch his vortex name but he claims he has like 400hp or some highnumber around ther don't remember the exact hp but I know it was more then iv ever head with a SC.... with a V9 and I think he said 2.75 pully... wat do u guys think about that?


----------



## VRC-YA (Sep 2, 2001)

*Re: supercharger kits (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_I don't doubt he's making some power but I would highly doubt 360whp on a dynojet for several reasons. One is the trap speed. Our cars weigh roughly the same. I make 274whp and trap just under 113mph. 85 more whp and only trapping 116.5? I don't think I've even seen a VRT get close to 360whp at 11.5psi
Jettset made 300whp at 10.5 psi, IC, short runner, 3" exhaust
Throttle made 286whp at ~11.5psi, non IC, cams, 2.5 straight through
Where is the extra 60-75whp coming from? If I had to guess that car is making between 310 and 330 whp on a dynojet. That's based on the setup, trap speed, and weight. Not hating the setup either by the way. It just doesn't add up. AWE tuning has a Mustang that dynos high so I think it depends on the dyno.

350whp is def doable. A friend of mine did 350-55whp. BUT, it was on a mustang dyno so he's goin' back on a dyno jet. Don't wanna give his name away. I'll let him bring the news in


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: supercharger kits (VRC-YA)*

330whp my friend...but i dont trust that dyno nor do i trust that it was setup right, therefore i will dyno again on a dynojet.
rob(yellow gti) i think i sthe guy i just met last week friday when i ran my car. hes not going to make anywhere near 400hp with his v9 and the setup he has. he ran high 13's all night iirc, with quite a bit of "work" to the motor. 
says he has more plans, til then, ill wait and see.


----------



## VRC-YA (Sep 2, 2001)

*Re: supercharger kits (-THROTTLE-)*

AT least we can finally put the myth behind that 300whp is impossible with a charger!!!


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: supercharger kits (VRC-YA)*

I know my car is makin power just lookin for more all the time. I may just up the boost a little more


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: supercharger kits (VRC-YA)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VRC-YA* »_AT least we can finally put the myth behind that 300whp is impossible with a charger!!!

true, but there are a few guys that have done it a long time ago...theres just more of then now.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

I think I could pick up another 20whp if I did a a BVH w/ P&P and a larger DP.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

if you helped it flow out faster, i wouldnt doubt it. but the money, imo, isnt worth the gain. not unless youre trying to be the highest hp s/c vr out there type of deal. i thought about doing it, but the amount of money id spend just wasnt worth it to ME...
youre making awesome power as it is. id love to see dynojet numbers rather than mustang, just to compare the two dynos since you know your car is consistent http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## b5vwc (May 31, 2007)

*Re:*

Thought i'd add the *Rotrex Supercharger* to this thread...
Max Boost: 17psi
402.4hp at flywheel ~345whp @6676rpm, 135.3mph
330.5lbft torque at flywheel @5960rpm, 120.8mph
Setup:
Rotrex C30-94 85mm Pulley
Schimmel Shortrunner Intake, A/W Chargecooler, 263 Cams
Schimmel Head Spacer 9:1 Compression, ARP Head Studs & Rod Bolts
Forge Split-R Dump Valve, 95mm MAF Housing, BMC Air Filter
Walbro Fuel Pump, Delphi 440cc Fuel Injectors, Weber Fuel Regulator
Custom Map on standard ecu, 2.25" Exhaust (to be upgraded)
Peloquin LSD, 3.68 Final Drive, Limiter set to 7268rpm
I had a Vortech V9 on this same setup but the Rotrex is another level, quieter and smaller unit but kicks out some serious power and much better torque... no belt slip issues









_Modified by b5vwc at 3:20 PM 5-2-2008_


_Modified by b5vwc at 9:19 AM 5-31-2008_


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: supercharger kits (MR 2.GO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MR 2.GO* »_I met a guy @ show n go lastmonth had a yellow gti his name was Rob didn't catch his vortex name but he claims he has like 400hp or some highnumber around ther don't remember the exact hp but I know it was more then iv ever head with a SC.... with a V9 and I think he said 2.75 pully... wat do u guys think about that?

Exactly what I think of every other claim. Show me a timeslip or a dyno. Everything else is speculation. Highest V9 I've ever seen on a 12v is 300whp. 2.75 pulley makes 8psi on a V9 which will run high 13's in a full weight car. 400whp is BS.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_if you helped it flow out faster, i wouldnt doubt it. but the money, imo, isnt worth the gain. not unless youre trying to be the highest hp s/c vr out there type of deal. i thought about doing it, but the amount of money id spend just wasnt worth it to ME...
youre making awesome power as it is. id love to see dynojet numbers rather than mustang, just to compare the two dynos since you know your car is consistent http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Good points. I'm at a point now where I'm thinking long and hard about upgrades. I could swap in 268 cams/springs, water/meth inj., and a full 3" custom exhaust and probably hit 300whp but that's ~$1500-$1600 for 25 more whp. I could probably sell the kit, add that $1600 and make 400whp by going turbo. I would ultimately like to run 11.5's in a full weight car and I don't think you can do that in a SC VR. At least I haven't seen it. You need more than 350 wheel for that








Alot of good info in this thread.


----------



## NoMoreHonduh (Apr 24, 2006)

*Re: Re: (b5vwc)*


_Quote, originally posted by *b5vwc* »_Thought i'd add the *Rotrex Supercharger* to this thread...
Max Boost: 17psi
402.4hp at flywheel ~345whp @6676rpm, 135.3mph
330.5lbft torque at flywheel @5960rpm, 120.8mph
Setup:
Rotrex C30-94 85mm Pulley
Schimmel Shortrunner Intake, A/W Chargecooler, 263 Cams
Schimmel Head Spacer 9:1 Compression, ARP Head Studs & Rod Bolts
Forge Split-R Dump Valve, 95mm MAF Housing, BMC Air Filter
Walbro Fuel Pump, Delphi 440cc Fuel Injectors, Weber Fuel Regulator
Custom Map on standard ecu, 2.25" Exhaust (to be upgraded)
Peloquin LSD, 3.68 Final Drive, Limiter set to 7268rpm
I had a Vortech V9 on this same setup but the Rotrex is another level, quieter and smaller unit but kicks out some serious power and much better torque... no belt slip issues
_Modified by b5vwc at 3:20 PM 5-2-2008_

Rotrex http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif . I was doing some reading on those S/C's and they have damn near turbo efficiency. I really want a MK2 VR with a Rotrex on it, maybe I should sell the DD and have 2 "fun" VR's haha.


----------



## Vortexpert (Apr 17, 2008)

*Re: Re: (NoMoreHonduh)*

98 GTI VR6 
VF stage 1
schrick 268
schrick intake
TT down pipe 
TT high flow cat
TT cat back 2.50
making 14 in/hg at idle (dont know why so low)
dyno- not yet 








custom "bend"








TT Down Pipe










_Modified by Vortexpert at 6:53 PM 5-2-2008_


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: Re: (Vortexpert)*

i did that as well. check your cam timing, it may be off a tooth. ive been told by the all motor guys that the schricks dont sit 100% like they should. i put mine a tooth advanced, and im at 16-17in at idle.
and make sure you dont have vac leaks.


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Hey guys i did some searching around and it looks as if the difference between dynos could be anywhere between 10-15%. So if thats the case then 305whp mustang could be 340-360 dynojet.
Here is a video of my dyno.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FqqC9bwh2LI


----------



## Vortexpert (Apr 17, 2008)

*Re: Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_i did that as well. check your cam timing, it may be off a tooth. ive been told by the all motor guys that the schricks dont sit 100% like they should. i put mine a tooth advanced, and im at 16-17in at idle.
and make sure you dont have vac leaks.

throttle- i went balls deep in this engine. i checked timing and all the marks lne up. 
which cam did you move and what direction did you go. my proble is i beyond lazy, i stopped when i saw all the marks line up. 
but im selling them, i dont care at this point. (im gonna turbo the other gti for me and leave the s/c car for my wife)



_Modified by Vortexpert at 6:56 PM 5-2-2008_


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: Re: (Vortexpert)*

my flywheel mark sline up with the bell housing, and the cams were just a hair off. if you look at the ends where the cam tool would slide in, the were tilted back just a tad. i moved them one tooth forward, and it cleared up the vac issue.
its not going to make a huge difference imo, but its something worth trying.
if you sell them though, its not worth the work to just pull them out later.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: Re: (SUPERCHARGED-JETTA)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SUPERCHARGED-JETTA* »_Hey guys i did some searching around and it looks as if the difference between dynos could be anywhere between 10-15%. So if thats the case then 305whp mustang could be 340-360 dynojet.
Here is a video of my dyno.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FqqC9bwh2LI

I thinks it's really hard to use a calculator to determine what you'll make on another dyno. Mikemcnair made 177whp on AWE tuning's Mustang with only a chip, intake, and exhaust. That's about 10 whp high for a Corrado w/ those mods. I mean do we really think his car made 195-205whp w/ I/C/E.
Again, you are making great power and great times. I would be interested in what power you would make on a Dynojet. They seem pretty consistent from dyno to dyno so I think perhaps better for comparisons to other cars. I've seen Mustangs dyno high and low.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: Re: (slc92)*

I cant wait to get the Wifes car on the dyno and see what it can do.
mods
-autotech 262 cams
-vortech v2 charger with 2.87 pully
-c2 36lb s/w
-c2 dual idler
-accel coilpacks
-snow performance w/m injection
-vortech mondo bypass valve
-custom dual 2 inch downpipe
-full 3 inch exhaust with high flow cat and borla xr1 muffler
-ported & gasket matched exhaust manifolds
any ideas what Whp it should put down ?


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: Re: (websaabn)*

How many psi w/ that pulley? If it's 11-12psi I'm thinkin 300whp.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_How many psi w/ that pulley? If it's 11-12psi I'm thinkin 300whp.

yeah, about 12psi. so if fueling is right, 300whp is a good estimate http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

That bunny should run pretty damn fast


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: Re: (SUPERCHARGED-JETTA)*

I am hitting 11 psi with the 2.87


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: Re: (websaabn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *websaabn* »_I am hitting 11 psi with the 2.87

Pretty much the same setup I have except for the W/M injection, 3" exhaust, and you are obd2 which usually make a little more power. I would expect ~300whp if it's tuned up, good A/F ratio, and tuned w/m injection.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_
Pretty much the same setup I have except for the W/M injection, 3" exhaust, and you are obd2 which usually make a little more power. I would expect ~300whp if it's tuned up, good A/F ratio, and tuned w/m injection.

coilpack obd1


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: Re: (websaabn)*

Mine is dizzy but i added msd 6al box alond with a 2 step, I think this is one of the best mods you can do!!

_Quote, originally posted by *websaabn* »_
coilpack obd1


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_if you helped it flow out faster, i wouldnt doubt it. but the money, imo, isnt worth the gain. not unless youre trying to be the highest hp s/c vr out there type of deal. i thought about doing it, but the amount of money id spend just wasnt worth it to ME...
youre making awesome power as it is. id love to see dynojet numbers rather than mustang, just to compare the two dynos since you know your car is consistent http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

yeah its all about air flow. Unless my DP breaks or something else goes (or I win the lotto







) I dont see myself doing these additional mods. I'm pretty happy with the current set up. However, it does occasionally run out of fuel around 6K rpm. Jeff says its the injectors(they're maxed out). I think a 4"Maf w/ a 36# tune would have yielded a few more horses up top & given me the ability to keep in the redline area a bit longer.
I think water or W/M may be a new project http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I am quite curious to see the Dynojet numbers as well. I would guess 327


----------



## speeding-g60 (Aug 1, 2004)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

My friend built mine, and i ended up with the car...
96 VR6 GTI. Vortech V-1 S-trim stock AMS kit, 8.5psi. 265WHP. only other change motor wise is an EIP manifold....
the car was charged @ 20k, its now right at 131K..... with no rebuild, it runs real strong. pulls hard, and is a totally fun driver. i do not track this car, as i have a ~525WHP 20vBT rabbit GTI that is my drag car. the MK3 is more setup for road driving... PSS-9's, Quaife, BBS RK-II's, Autotech big brake kit, Autotech strut bars F/R... just a blast to drive....
some pix...



























_Modified by speeding-g60 at 9:46 PM 5-5-2008_


----------



## traumatrix89 (Dec 21, 2005)

thats my new set up.
30lbs redtop injectors
c2 30# software(new stuff)
2.5 intercooler pipeing
v9 charger with 15psi pully
262 cams
2.5 exhaust
mkiv headgasket


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (traumatrix89)*

How are you getting 15psi out of a V9? What size is the pulley? The one in the pic is purple and looks like the 2.7" VF stage 2 (8psi) pulley. 
You would need a ~1.5" pulley to see 15psi out of a V9 and one of two things would happen. 1) The charger bearings would fail as it's spinning at it's max w/ a 2.25" 2) You would get alot of belt slip.
15psi from a V9 w/ an intercooler







Sorry, I call BS


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (slc92)*

keep in mind, not all 15psi pulleys work the same on different chargers. my 2.87" pulley gives me 12psi, but it wouldnt produce less on the V9 iirc....steve can correct me on this if im wrong.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Anyone have issues routing their v-belt on a Stage2?
I'm finding the belt is super tight fitting, having a hard time getting it over and then being able to tension it. 
Right now with total slack on the blower, the belt will almost get over the pulley but not quite, so I'm not sure I can pull any tension into the blower once I get the belt routed. 
VF thinks I just don't have it seated right as Stage 1 and 2 have the same belt, but I need to be able to tension the blower some to get the oil return line past the alternator as well as the discharge pipe up some to route it to the piping.
Thanks


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

ive been told by a few and also learned from experience. the belt should be tight when its new. if youre having trouble putting it on, youre good. my belt is a pita when new, and once its on and running for 30 min, it loosens up a lot. get it on, put tension on it, run the car for a bit. then tighten the tension some more.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Thanks a million!


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

The power steering pulley should be the last one on since it isn't ribbed. You also mentioned intake piping. A V9 charger can be "clocked" easily. The large V band clamp that separates the two halves of the charger can be loosened and the two charger halves will rotate. I loosen that clamp every time I tension the belt so the intake piping/outlet of the charger stay in the same position while I tension the other half of the charger/belt.
Loosen the band clamp, loosen the charger al the way, route the belt, and put it over the power steering pulley last.







It is tight though.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_keep in mind, not all 15psi pulleys work the same on different chargers. my 2.87" pulley gives me 12psi, but it wouldnt produce less on the V9 iirc....steve can correct me on this if im wrong.

It seems like the same size pulley on a V9 gives you about 2/3 of the boost of a V1/V2. However, it seems that V9's have less of an issue w/ belt slip as well. V9's don't seem to slip even w/ a 2.25" pulley and single idler whereas V1/V2's slip alot w/ a 2.5" pulley and dual idler from what I have heard.


----------



## JETTSET (Oct 16, 2001)

*Re: (slc92)*

2000 Jetta GLX VR6
VF-Engineering Stage 3 @ 10.5psi
stock 2.8L top and bottom
Schimmel short runner cast intake
match ported exhasut manifold. Ceramicromed
NGK MKIV OEM wires
NGK BKR8EIX plugs gapped at 0.027"
custom 2" downtubes into a 3" pipe.
3" metallic high flow cat
full 3" GHL cat back
6speed Quaife gearbox
6lb Aluminum flywheel
spinnging 14" rotors and forged BBS's

[email protected]
237 w/tq @6200PRM



































_Modified by JETTSET at 11:00 PM 5-7-2008_


----------



## traumatrix89 (Dec 21, 2005)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_How are you getting 15psi out of a V9? What size is the pulley? The one in the pic is purple and looks like the 2.7" VF stage 2 (8psi) pulley. 
You would need a ~1.5" pulley to see 15psi out of a V9 and one of two things would happen. 1) The charger bearings would fail as it's spinning at it's max w/ a 2.25" 2) You would get alot of belt slip.
15psi from a V9 w/ an intercooler







Sorry, I call BS









let me rephraze that..... its a 15psi pully im getting about 11psi out of it..sorry its a 2.62in pully


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

the 2.5" pulley is advertised as a 15# pulley by certain places. However, that is based on a V1/V2 charger @ an undisclosed rpm. 
I ran the 2.5"/15# pulley w/ dual idler on my V1 setup. I never came even close to 15#. The V1/V2 chargers are larger & have more rotational mass to move than the V9's. This results in increased belt slip. If you were lucky enough to ever see 15#, it wouldn't be very consistent. 
Cogged Pulleys FTW http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Its a trade off. the V9 seems to spins easier & w/ less slip & also has a higher rev. point (65,000rpm IIRC) vs the V1 55,000. 
Although the V1/2 push more CFM. 

A worked head/exhaust etc w/ a V9 & no belt slip can be a very nice setup. 
Big numbers should be left to turbos. Solid performance and smooth power delivery are what the SC is about.
The AC pulley has ribs that can be shaved. This will increase belt life by not having its backside run along the ribs.
The ribs on many non Vortech pulleys tend to be very sharp. When over tightening the sharp rubs tend to 'slice' through the belts. I ve been there, done that.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (slc92)*

awesome, thanks for the tip on that, I'll check that out when I retension the belt, just got it all hooked up. Only thing left is the catch can/heater element and vacuum lines. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (traumatrix89)*


_Quote, originally posted by *traumatrix89* »_
let me rephraze that..... its a 15psi pully im getting about 11psi out of it..sorry its a 2.62in pully

No way. Your gauge is off or you are revving over 7200 rpm. 
Vf stage 3 uses the 2.25" pullley and sees 10-10.5psi intercooled.
You are seeing 11 psi w/ a 2.62"? Nah. That's an 8psi pulley w/ IC at most.


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

so are pullies interchangeable from V1/2 to V9's?


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

Got a lot done last night. Only thing left is the vacuum lines and check valves as well as mounting the catch can. Then button up the last bits of coolant lines, tighten down the front clip and see if it'll start up. 
Will have pics, but there is something of a picture following here:
http://s264.photobucket.com/al...t=all


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (ThaCorradoKid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ThaCorradoKid* »_so are pullies interchangeable from V1/2 to V9's? 

yes. 
C2's 2.5" pulley was advertised as 15#. This is the smallest VW 'kit' pulley I have seen.
2.87
2.75
2.62?
2.50
There may be other pulleys that fit/may work available through vortech or summit/jegs but IIRC they were 8 rib. Using a 7 rib belt(trimmed from 8) on my set up before I went cogged did help some.



_Modified by CorradoMagic at 10:31 AM 5-8-2008_


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

VFs stage 3 is 2.25" but they don't sell it seperately.


----------



## BlueMk3VR6 (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (slc92)*

C2 Stage 1 V1, 30# 1.35 software, came with 2.87" pulley - changed later to 2.75, 12psi, TT 2.5 cat-back, 42dd testpipe, Autotech lightweight flywheel, Peloquin slip differential. Have not dynoed yet with some changes.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

All is done now but the drain line and putting the front clip back on... should be (hopefully) running by tomorrow evening. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## hogis (Jan 23, 2005)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

How hard is it to change out the pulley on the V-9?
What else is needed?
Thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
EDIT for spelling










_Modified by hogis at 11:31 AM 5-11-2008_


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (hogis)*

hold the pulley tight, and take out the bolt holding it on. then use a pulley to pull the pulley off of the shaft.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (hogis)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hogis* »_How har is it to change out the pulley on the V-9?
What else is needed?
Thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

An impact gun will make it alot easier to take the pulley bolt off. The issue is pulling the pulley off the shaft. You'll need a puller and might have to modify the jaws to fit under the pulley.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (slc92)*

So the kit is installed, car is back on the road, in break in period now so I haven't hopped on it, but nothing leaks so far.
I am getting codes pointing to MAF fault, EPC/ASR Light and code P0102 which is the MAF Low Circuit code...
Anyone else have this issue with a VF Kit?
I did the extender harness and followed the instructions wiring in the MAF Clamp. The switched wire is in the crank case heater circuit and the ground just tied into the battery ground. 
Clues tips hints wisdom, all would be appreciated! 
I do have a new sensor if I need to, but this one was fine prior to the install.
Thanks! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

^ did you soldier or use connectors for the extension?
I;d recheck the connections. There are basically 2 types of soldier. 1 is non electrical & may cause higher resistance.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (BlueMk3VR6)*

BlueMk3VR6
Your car looks great http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif You pretty much have the same setup that I do minus cams. Ever run it at the track? Anything to prevent detonation, IC, water injection, higher octane?


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

We did solder them, I'll check those out and use an ohm meter and check the resistance. Thanks for the tip.


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

*Re: (slc92)*

While plenty of people use an impact gun I wouldn't - thats a hell of a shock to the gears/bearings for no reason. Go to Home depot or the like and get a set of strap wrenches for $10 or so. They have a two pack for about that much and the larger one works perfect. Use it to hold the pulley and use a normal box wrench or a ratchet to take the bolt off. No need for a puller either. Once the bolt is off heat the pulley up with a heat gun or a torch. You don't need to get it that hot so don't go crazy. Pulley will slide right off once hot - be sure to wear gloves though. If you use a small propane/map gas torch you could even change pulleys at the track using this method. No need for electricity and since you don't need to jam a puller in there no need to take the charger completely off.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

I used a electric impact gun when I did mine. I tried the strap wrenched & found them to be useless for my setup. Maybe the PO over wrenched em sumting








A puller was a must for my setup. easy even w/ a cordless drill.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

So now once I get past the break in period and retension the belt, I'm dying to hit a dyno.
Does anyone know of one around the central Virginia area?
Cheers http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

All done, no leaks, no squeals, no codes, everything is happy and shiny. Only thing left is to put in a boost gauge now.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

^ how much boost & did u hit a dyno yet?


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

Stage 2 with the 8psi pulley and I haven't had time to hit one yet. Going to Bugout on Sunday, but I'll try harder to find a dyno once I get back. Should be past my break in by then as well. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## hogis (Jan 23, 2005)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

Has anyone tryed a smaller pulley than 2.25"? 
I'm wondering if beltslip would become a problem.. lets say 2.10" or something like that... 
EDIT: V9 units










_Modified by hogis at 12:04 PM 5-23-2008_


----------



## Flyweight (Jan 15, 2007)

What belt size would you run for non ac non ps? Thanks.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (Flyweight)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Flyweight* »_What belt size would you run for non ac non ps? Thanks.

I ran a 1360mm stock VR6 w/AC belt w/ the SC and no AC. With no power steering you'll need something smaller. A stock VR6 w/ out AC belt(1290mm) should get you close but I don't know for sure.


----------



## hogis (Jan 23, 2005)

*Re: (slc92)*

What size belt should I get for the 2.25" pulley?
Thanks


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

same size belts for all pulleys on C2 kits w/ AC. there is enough adjustment in the groove to compensate various sizes. 61.5" x 6 or 8 ribs(trimmed to 7) http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## hogis (Jan 23, 2005)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_same size belts for all pulleys on C2 kits w/ AC. there is enough adjustment in the groove to compensate various sizes. 61.5" x 6 or 8 ribs(trimmed to 7) http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

Sorry, I ment the V9 unit.. with AC


----------



## MR 2.GO (Apr 10, 2007)

*Re: (hogis)*

Alright so its 3:15 am and raining here in NY and my stage 2 v9 is just about installed... only probly I came across is the airfilter it came with, it sits about 2 inches below my bumper which doesn't make sense to my because ill scrap that thing off comeing out my drive.
So wat I'm trying to get to is how did u guys remidy that without changing the equipment the kit came with. Meaning without buying a shorter filter or buying pipeing to move it somewhere else?
TIA


----------



## VRC-YA (Sep 2, 2001)

*Re: (MR 2.GO)*

I bought a shorter filter. As long as there's a filter at the end of the pipe it shouldn't really matter. I bought an APC filter cause thats the only one I found in my area and I needed one.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

some ppl. just cut back the pipe, but anything shorter than 18" from MAF can cause drivability issues. Its be better to extend the pipe via a $5 plastic flexy drian tube & remount the filter further away, more centered. $10 max and better drivability http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## MR 2.GO (Apr 10, 2007)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

Just finished my VF stage 2 in my 95vr... I have 2 problems. starts up right away everytime but Sometimes when coming to a stop it stalls out.also while starting and reving I hear a loud vibrating/rattling from the top of motor I think from cams








Mods: 262 autotech, HD valvsprings, new lifters, and mk4 headgasket. And yes when I put the new lifters I let it idle for a while 2 build up pressure so its not that..
any advice would be much appreciated


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (MR 2.GO)*

the stalling is an issue thats been covered. it has to do with the locationg of the maf sensor iirc. im sure someone thats dealt with it will provide a link for their old thread and some information for you.
about the loud sound, did you make sure you tightened the caps down properly onto the cams?


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

be sure your oil level is correct, hat the feed & return lines to charger are good/working, not pinched, etc, see what I posted above for MAF extension. You can try the filter extension first, but MAF extension usually does the trick. OR eliminate by just unplugging the ISC harness, but you will have rough cold starts requiring 30 secs. of feathering. 
as to noise again, check belt tension, routing & alignment. If is really from the head, you may want to open the VC ASAP. This just happened to a friends Corrado. .. oil starved= ruined cams, head journals/head, starved timing tensioner skipped timing bent valves...


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (hover)*

my mk2 super charged vr6
what i started with. obd1 passat vr6, converted to obd2 injecton
AMS supercharger kit (everything they would send u if u orderd it)
C2, 42lb chip, mk3 vortech intake, dual idler conversion, 9.1 head spacer, 4" maf housing
delphi 42lb injectors
welbro 422 (what ever part # everyone uses) fuel pump
schreck 268 cams
p&p head, gasketmatched intake & exhasut manifolds, head modafied so the valve guides sit a touch lower to clear cams properly (loweirng the guide adn seal leaves a bit give some space so the lifter dosnt hit the seal when compressed by big cams killing the seal early into its life), 5angle valve job, combustion chambers CC'd, TT HD valve springs w/ tietainium retainers. new light weight lifters
arp head studs
ported down pipe rewelded on the out sdie, 2.5" magnaflow high flow cat, TT 2.5" ehxaust w/ borla
i only used the charger, moutning brackets, oil feed/retrun lines from the AMS kit.
i relocated the coil to be under the intake manifold onthe front of the block, also got rid of the 2nd (electric) water pump. its also hard to tell in the pic, but i have a full mk3 gti vr6 AC system working in my car.








im sure i spaced otu soem stuff ill update as i go along and also add moreinfo once i hit the dyno and such. 

_Modified by carsluTT at 10:59 AM 6-5-2008_


_Modified by carsluTT at 11:01 AM 6-5-2008_


----------



## VRC-YA (Sep 2, 2001)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (carsluTT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *carsluTT* »_my mk2 super charged vr6
what i started with. obd1 passat vr6, converted to obd2 injecton
AMS supercharger kit (everything they would send u if u orderd it)
C2, 42lb chip, mk3 vortech intake, dual idler conversion, 9.1 head spacer, 4" maf housing
delphi 42lb injectors
welbro 422 (what ever part # everyone uses) fuel pump
schreck 268 cams
p&p head, gasketmatched intake & exhasut manifolds, head modafied so the valve guides sit a touch lower to clear cams properly (loweirng the guide adn seal leaves a bit give some space so the lifter dosnt hit the seal when compressed by big cams killing the seal early into its life), 5angle valve job, combustion chambers CC'd, TT HD valve springs w/ tietainium retainers. new light weight lifters
arp head studs
ported down pipe rewelded on the out sdie, 2.5" magnaflow high flow cat, TT 2.5" ehxaust w/ borla
i only used the charger, moutning brackets, oil feed/retrun lines from the AMS kit.
i relocated the coil to be under the intake manifold onthe front of the block, also got rid of the 2nd (electric) water pump. its also hard to tell in the pic, but i have a full mk3 gti vr6 AC system working in my car.








im sure i spaced otu soem stuff ill update as i go along and also add moreinfo once i hit the dyno and such. 

_Modified by carsluTT at 10:59 AM 6-5-2008_

_Modified by carsluTT at 11:01 AM 6-5-2008_

Nice set-up. Should be making some good power. Especially with the ported work you have done.


----------



## hogis (Jan 23, 2005)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (VRC-YA)*

Could I use the same belt on my V9 when going from stage 1 to 2.25" pulley? 
Thanks


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

yes you can. There is plenty of adjustment to accomidate the standard range of available pullies.


----------



## VRC-YA (Sep 2, 2001)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (hover)*

MIKE, I don't wanna hear anythin' about my windshield dammit, LOL! Had to put money down towards the 08 Civic(yeah a Honda man). Anywayzzz, here's my simple set-up thats taken out modded EVO's and STI's. Plus a few more cocky bastids...


-Stock OBD2 VR6 with no PS/AC/HVAC Unit.
-Vortech V2 Charger
-2.87 pulley w/dual idler
-C2 30# software
-30# injectors
-SP Water/Meth Injection(Coming soon)
-2.5" exhaust no cat w/Borla muffler
-Walbro 255lph
-AEM Uego Wideband
-Stewart Warner BG
No track time(Soon, veeery soon)
No dyno(planning on it when I get my fuel pump in)



_Modified by VRC-YA at 10:28 PM 6-18-2008_


----------



## VW Acolyte (Sep 23, 2004)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (VRC-YA)*

wow, im glad i found this thread. ALOT of usefull info that i was needing. thanks to all who have contributed http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Vr6-SC Sweden (Jun 19, 2008)

Hi 
I run a Vr6 12v '96 with V9 supercharger 8psi boost
I ordered:
Shortrunner intake
10,5 Psi pulley
software
intercooler
should get it next week, so i'm wondering about FMIC. How do you lead the piping from the SC to FMIC, Can you please post some pictures if you have.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (VRC-YA)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VRC-YA* »_MIKE, I don't wanna hear anythin' about my windshield dammit, LOL! 


bet that bike is faster than the car


----------



## VRC-YA (Sep 2, 2001)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (-THROTTLE-)*

LMFAO!!! That Rascal beats me by a car length everytime


----------



## Nailbunny86 (Oct 18, 2005)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (hover)*

So can anyone tell me why the V9 has this air check valve thingy on the oil feed line???
and why is there not one on the V1 and V2 chargers???
would there be any benefits from putting one on a V1 or V2 ?? 
also would this extra boost air be making bubbles in your oil pan???


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (hover)*

Well just got my MK4 VR6 gti from the guys at Verdict Motorsports. Had them install VF stage 2 with their cogged pulleys. All I can say is what an awsome set-up. I haven't dynoed yet, but that's coming soon, and I will get pictures up when I can. Can you say "ABSOLUTELY NO BELT SLIP!!!!!!!!!" with this set-up.


----------



## MR 2.GO (Apr 10, 2007)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (groupracer)*

Nothen nasty but atleast it'll keep the thread alive.
Just installed a VF stage 2 in my mk3 4door golf
262 autotech cams, hd valvesprings, mk4headgasket, pelequin lsd, 10lbs autotech flywheel, magnaflow 2.25 w/ testpipe, .5 bfi mounts.








Bad cellphone picture but all I have.
Goin to dyno it at my school real soon










_Modified by MR 2.GO at 9:41 PM 6-27-2008_


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (MR 2.GO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MR 2.GO* »_Nothen nasty but atleast it'll keep the thread alive.
Just installed a VF stage 2 in my mk3 4door golf
262 autotech cams, hd valvesprings, mk4headgasket, pelequin lsd, 10lbs autotech flywheel, magnaflow 2.25 w/ testpipe, .5 bfi mounts.








Bad cellphone picture but all I have.
Goin to dyno it at my school real soon









_Modified by MR 2.GO at 9:41 PM 6-27-2008_

I ran a 13.4 on drag radials with almost that exact setup with I think just the seats and spare out. That was on C2 software though. The VF stuff ran lean and only made 237whp/13.7 ET. I had to be making ~250-255whp on C2.
Get it dynoed w/ air fuel ratio to make sure everything is ok.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (MR 2.GO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MR 2.GO* »_Nothen nasty but atleast it'll keep the thread alive.
Just installed a VF stage 2 in my mk3 4door golf
262 autotech cams, hd valvesprings, mk4headgasket, pelequin lsd, 10lbs autotech flywheel, magnaflow 2.25 w/ testpipe, .5 bfi mounts.
_Modified by MR 2.GO at 9:41 PM 6-27-2008_

I run a similar setup
AT 262's, HD V. springs, MK4 HG, AT 10# FW, NSPD cat back, .5 front & side, G60 trans mt.
LSD is awaiting install
15# cogged system, custom c2 tune, 044 pump, 300whp/267 trq. 

* def check the A/F on there.


----------



## MR 2.GO (Apr 10, 2007)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (CorradoMagic)*

I wish the dyno @ my school read A/F... I believe its a mustang dyno but the operater told me it doesn't read it http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (MR 2.GO)*

Curious what kind of fuel pumps some of you guys are using, my understanding is the off the shelf staqge 1 kits will operate with a stock fuel pump, but what about stg 2/3/and beyond???
mk3 guys: are you using in-tank race pumps? if so what kind of flow (LPH) at what bar pressure?
mk2 guys: are you using in-line pumps? if so where are you mounting them? up near the fuel rail of underneath the car at or near the fuel filter housing.
I have a few inline bosch race pumps, just curious, what you guys where running and how its plumbed in. 
thx


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (scirockin16v)*

I recvd. a custom tune with plenty of dyno time. In order to properly fuel my set up I needed a new 4 bar intank (Stock Corrado ) pump & also a inline (Bosch 044) pump to feed beyond 5G rpm for my 30# 15psi kit.


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (CorradoMagic)*

so the 044 pump doesn't over scavenge the stock pump? what size fule lines?


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

3/8" IIRC. it was a tight fit on the barbs for sure tho. 
stock pump= 4 bar
fpr= 4 bar
044 = 5 bar
from what I understand the stock pump just helps feed the 044.


----------



## abt cup (Aug 1, 2000)

*FV-QR*

How many people are pushing 10+ psi on a V9? I was thinking about doing the 10psi pulley...but I'm hearing more and more V9's failing above 10psi.
I've got 50k+ miles on my V9 at 8psi and its still doing good.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (abt cup)*

lee, contact steve (slc92) and ask him...he has some good info for you http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## abt cup (Aug 1, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (-THROTTLE-)*

He contacted me. Told me what happened to his blower.
I think I'll keep mine at 8psi...fast enough for me.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

rebuild with Abec 7 or 9 for more RPM's .


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_lee, contact steve (slc92) and ask him...he has some good info for you http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Tension has that effect on components










_Modified by MeCarTay at 12:58 AM 7-3-2008_


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

Smaller pulleys dont always yield more boost. smaller pulleys usually result in more slip from less contact/wrap. In efforts to get that boost & reduce the new found slip, most ppl. just tighten the belt more. 
Over tensioning the belt to the point that the pulley serpentine grooves cut through the belt-back is not the answer to slipping belts. Even if you 'dull' the pulley grooves, It also stresses the WP and other shafts to the point of bearing failure or warped shafts.


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

is there an off the shelf supplier for coged pullies? anyone have a link to them?


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: (carsluTT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *carsluTT* »_is there an off the shelf supplier for coged pullies? anyone have a link to them? 

check out verdict motorsports
http://www.verdictmotorsports.com/


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: (scirockin16v)*

bump


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (scirockin16v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *scirockin16v* »_bump


Do you have your SC kit installed?


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

not yet, ( I hope my buddies don't see this) I'm kinda doing it on the down low. and I've been socking away parts to throw at the car when I take it off the road.
here is the setup thus far
have V9 charger
need mount 
need C2 ECU chip
need "fresher" head to swap on while I have mine built/ported
have:
3" exhaust (no cat) 3' magnaflow in/out muffler
36 lb/hr injector set
C2 8.5:1 headspacer
all oil lines
Bosch race fuel pump 128 L/hr @ 5 bar
11 pound flywheel with southbend 20% uprated pressure plate
working on getting my self a quaife
andI've got some parts for the short runner intake, that going on this winter when the FMIC will go in

then I've got a bunch of maint. parts for the car and a brand spankin new set of koni coilovers. I just have too much fun with the car on a daily basis, yes its a (summer) daily driver.


----------



## MR 2.GO (Apr 10, 2007)

*Re: (scirockin16v)*

So I hit the dyno today... 12v obd1 with a stage 2 VF. 262 cames,mk4 HG, 2.25 magnaflow and a few other little things.... 
Hit 160 whp and 350 torque







.
How retarded is my schools dyno


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

*Re: (MR 2.GO)*

si that thing runing on #2....... diesel that is?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (MR 2.GO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MR 2.GO* »_So I hit the dyno today... 12v obd1 with a stage 2 VF. 262 cames,mk4 HG, 2.25 magnaflow and a few other little things.... 
Hit 160 whp and 350 torque







.
How retarded is my schools dyno










The 350 wtq sounds like a you ran lean and might have detonated. Do you have a dyno sheet? What are you running for software and injectors?


----------



## MR 2.GO (Apr 10, 2007)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

Giac software that vf gave me with the 30 inj. Low rpms its rich but whe I get up its lean. And wat do u mean by I might have detonated?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (MR 2.GO)*

The GIAC software *WILL NOT SUPPORT CAMS* and the massive torque #'s that you see are from a lean mixture/detonation. 
You will need a different tune if you plan on running the cams. 








262 cams on GIAC VF stage 2


_Modified by DeckManDubs at 11:44 AM 7-26-2008_


----------



## abt cup (Aug 1, 2000)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

Hmm...VF told me that it was ok to use a mild cam. That it will run fine with my 260/264.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (abt cup)*


_Quote, originally posted by *abt cup* »_Hmm...VF told me that it was ok to use a mild cam. That it will run fine with my 260/264.

I have heard that one before, however the proof is on the dyno when the A/F's are logged. GIAC tunes for a stock engine so when you start doing heavy port work/cams or playing with the boost levels you will end up running lean.


----------



## MR 2.GO (Apr 10, 2007)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

I don't have the dyno print out but I can feel it gets lean uptop... when I'm toying with other cars like getting on and off the gas while up around 5-6 grand it feels like the engine just stops like it pauses... know wat I mean?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (MR 2.GO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MR 2.GO* »_I don't have the dyno print out but I can feel it gets lean uptop... when I'm toying with other cars like getting on and off the gas while up around 5-6 grand it feels like the engine just stops like it pauses... know wat I mean?

That is when the ECU is pulling timing, feels like a slight hesitation/clutch slippage.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

Out with the old in with the new


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

very nice http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif you and i need to dyno and update the dyno thread as well...ill have some more goodies soon, hopefully before h2o


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


















V9 F-Trim / Cogged Pulleys / 8.6psi / 262s / Giac S/W


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*

^^
Not bad http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I put down 274whp on a dynojet w/ a V9 at 11.5psi, dsr256 cams, full 2.5" exhaust, on C2 software so I would say those #'s look spot on. I always estimate ~1psi=10whp so at 3 less psi you are right there.
What car is this?


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_
What car is this?

99.5 Mk4 12v


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

*Re: (slc92)*

no not bad, but a/f needs work


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (groupracer)*

I had no luck with VF(Giac) software in my car and switched to C2 because of it. I went way lean(14-15:1) from 4500-7000 rpm. Presumably due to my cams, ported head, and test pipe. Funny how my C2 chip was fine with it. GIAC just doesn't seem to compensate for increased airflow like C2's tunes do. Almost like it doesn't rely as heavily on the MAF signal.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (slc92)*

I've had a couple of local people who do performance stuff recommend changing to C2 from the GIAC, but I don't have any other serious engine mods so I'm not sure. Is C2 the group that can do the Reflex allowance of SAI deletion?


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (abt cup)*


_Quote, originally posted by *abt cup* »_Hmm...VF told me that it was ok to use a mild cam. That it will run fine with my 260/264.

sure, at 6#. Way too many incidents where its otherwise running lean.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

So... the VF Kits just seem really "kit" oriented. I'm at a Stage 2, it's great but I want a little more flexibility in messing with it. I've been told I shouldn't IC it since it's not putting out much boost and Stage 3 is another... 1450? or more? Don't remember, but I'd like to do some smaller stuff to improve things. 
Cams sound out unless I change my software.
Would water/meth be helpful? 
210 cams and say C2 software? 
Power pulleys and C2 software to increase the rotational speed and thus boost? (if I'm guessing correctly there)
Thanks!!


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_So... the VF Kits just seem really "kit" oriented. I'm at a Stage 2, it's great but I want a little more flexibility in messing with it. I've been told I shouldn't IC it since it's not putting out much boost and Stage 3 is another... 1450? or more? Don't remember, but I'd like to do some smaller stuff to improve things. 
Cams sound out unless I change my software.
Would water/meth be helpful? 
210 cams and say C2 software? 
Power pulleys and C2 software to increase the rotational speed and thus boost? (if I'm guessing correctly there)
Thanks!!

C2 software would be needed for additional boost. However, increased boost on the V9 isnt a healthy thing unless you upgrade the bearings. 
C2 software & cams are nice. You will have plenty of fueling for cams & say upto '12' #
Water/meth is nice & a better alternative than IC for SC'ers. If too much meth, you could be richening the top & altering A/F ratios.
I am told straight water is good for hi boost applications as well. 
Power Pulleys are light weight underdrive, not good for SC'ers since you would under drive the charger. Also many have experienced alignment issues w/ charger & NSPD pulleys. 

Smaller charger pulleys make more boost. It comes at a cost tho. smaller pulleys have less belt wrap & tend to slip more. IMO dont go smaller than 2.75 & then use a trimmed 8 rib contitech belt for best grip.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

Thanks so much for your advice, glad to get good help and experienced advice. I am loving the "sneakiness" of the SC since the whine isn't terribly loud, no spooling noise, etc. Makes for one surprisingly quick GTI.


----------



## 631 Corrado (Jan 14, 2003)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_
C2 software would be needed for additional boost. However, increased boost on the V9 isnt a healthy thing unless you upgrade the bearings. 
C2 software & cams are nice. You will have plenty of fueling for cams & say upto '12' #
Water/meth is nice & a better alternative than IC for SC'ers. If too much meth, you could be richening the top & altering A/F ratios.
I am told straight water is good for hi boost applications as well. 
Power Pulleys are light weight underdrive, not good for SC'ers since you would under drive the charger. Also many have experienced alignment issues w/ charger & NSPD pulleys. 

Smaller charger pulleys make more boost. It comes at a cost tho. smaller pulleys have less belt wrap & tend to slip more. IMO dont go smaller than 2.75 & then use a trimmed 8 rib contitech belt for best grip. 



GOOD INFO http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
NUESPEED PULLEYS AND CHARGERS DONT MIX


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_
Water/meth is nice & a better alternative than IC for SC'ers. If too much meth, you could be richening the top & altering A/F ratios.


very true. i run the smallest setting on my meth, and since its not progressive, i go from 12 a/f's to 10.5-11.2 a/fs once it injects. 
does it help, yes...would it help if it was tuned properly, definitely


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

*Re: (slc92)*

SLC92 I am experiencing the same issues with my car going way lean. Did you use their 36# software with the 4" maf and their injectors or did you just use their software? Did you have to do any custom tuning after the chip install? thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by groupracer at 11:10 PM 8-9-2008_


----------



## Benthefrench (Nov 17, 2007)

Are C2 software different between turbo and S/C?


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

*Re: (Benthefrench)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Benthefrench* »_Are C2 software different between turbo and S/C?

iv been told its all the same, but id like a 100% educated answer to this my self.
spanks


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (carsluTT)*

With a AWIC setup, you can expect a 1.5-2.0 psi drop in boost, however the air flow is increased with the short runner. I was seeing 12lbs, now its a tad over 10.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (groupracer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *groupracer* »_SLC92 I am experiencing the same issues with my car going way lean. Did you use their 36# software with the 4" maf and their injectors or did you just use their software? Did you have to do any custom tuning after the chip install? thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by groupracer at 11:10 PM 8-9-2008_

I have a Corrado so I used the 30# inj. that came w/ the VF kit. I just swapped chips since the C2 #30 dizzy chip was tuned on the same inj. No custom tuning. Swapped chips, A/F went to 11.5:1 from ~15:1, the car was noticeably faster and went from a 13.7-13.4 w/ no other changes.
Keep in mind that every tune is different. This really means nothing if we aren't talking about a Corrado.


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

*Re: (slc92)*

Thanks for the info. Yes the Corrado VR6 engine is different from my MK4, but conditions can be quite similar.
After talking with some people at C2, according to them, their stage 1 system with 4" MAf, flashed software and 36# injectors will require no specialized tuning with 8.6# of boost. Evidently, the software can compensate for the 262 cams I am using. I also was told that it will also keep up with 12#s of boost I am going to go to. Why this is not included or done by VF is a mystery to me. To supply sofware that is not even close desturbs me. Yes I'm running 262 cams, I was also told by VF that with minor tuning it would be ok, and I have found out that is simply not the case. There is no such thing as "minor tuning".


----------



## MR 2.GO (Apr 10, 2007)

*Re: (groupracer)*

Anyone have an idea why everymorning thers oil dripping from my airfilter.... from the pipe that leads to the charger...
Obd1 vr with 262cams,mk4headgasket giac software VF gave me stg 2.. Please don't tell me my chargers messed up


_Modified by MR 2.GO at 3:45 PM 9-1-2008_


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (MR 2.GO)*









sorry dude, charger seal is most likely bad. steve (slc92) had several issues with his v9 unit, send him a pm and he may have better info for you


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (MR 2.GO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MR 2.GO* »_Anyone have an idea why everymorning thers oil dripping from my airfilter.... from the pipe that leads to the charger...
Obd1 vr with 262cams,mk4headgasket giac software VF gave me stg 2.. Please don't tell me my chargers messed up

_Modified by MR 2.GO at 3:45 PM 9-1-2008_

I never had a seal or oil issue. I ran my oil level on the low side and tapped the block for the oil drain. Where is your oil drain tapped? Where do you typically run your oil level?
My issue was bearings. They were shot after only 6500 miles causing enough play to allow the impeller to actually hit the housing on the inlet side of the charger. My belt was tensioned to VF's rec. 150 ft-lbs which is way too much IMO. 
From my personal experience, what I've read, numerous IM's from people that have had issues, and info from VF about the V9, I came to the following conclusion. The V9 is *JUNK*. I realize that some have had no issues but too many have. Oil seal problems, bearing problems, and boost limited to ~11 psi on a VR. Vortech also fought me tooth and nail on the warranty rebuild and had my charger for over two months http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif I cut my losses and went turbo. 
You could try disconnecting your PCV from the intake pipe to make sure the oil is coming from the charger. If so, you'll need a rebuild. Is the charger under warranty? I hope so. I think a rebuild is like $800. I couldnt justify that when a T-series turbo is only $600-$700 brand new.
If it's not under warranty http://www.superchargerrebuilds.com sells kits and does rebuilds as well.


----------



## MR 2.GO (Apr 10, 2007)

*Re: (slc92)*

how hard to take the charger apart to visually check wats up in ther?
oil level was a tiny bit above where dipstick marks it... tapped at oil pan


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (MR 2.GO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MR 2.GO* »_how hard to take the charger apart to visually check wats up in ther?
oil level was a tiny bit above where dipstick marks it... tapped at oil pan

Yeah, that may be your problem. Where is "where dipstick marks it" ? At the low side or high side of the marks?
VF released the oil return update b/c the oil level in the pan is higher than the return hole at times thus blocking it. This increases the pressure in the SC and blows the seals. 
I'm not sure about taking one apart.


----------



## BlueMk3VR6 (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (slc92)*

its very simple...I took my V1 apart to change the shaft seal.


----------



## MR 2.GO (Apr 10, 2007)

*Re: (BlueMk3VR6)*

On the highside of the dipstick... just a touch above... and sits high in the oilpan... this sucks probly less then 2000 miles on it


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (MR 2.GO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MR 2.GO* »_On the highside of the dipstick... just a touch above... and sits high in the oilpan... this sucks probly less then 2000 miles on it









If you are going to stay SC run the level at the low mark and I would tap the block just above the oil pan. It's a PITA w/ the front end on the car but so is a charger rebuild.
I run an air to air oil cooler which holds ~1/2 quart so I run my oil mid dipstick fully warmed up. Without an aftermarket cooler run it at the low point.


----------



## MR 2.GO (Apr 10, 2007)

*Re: (slc92)*

Called up VF took pictures to send em... hopefully they'll warranty it


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (MR 2.GO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MR 2.GO* »_Called up VF took pictures to send em... hopefully they'll warranty it

Good luck man. I battled for over two months and got everything covered. It's not VF. It's Vortech. They'll look for any reason to not cover the repairs.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (MR 2.GO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MR 2.GO* »_Anyone have an idea why everymorning thers oil dripping from my airfilter.... from the pipe that leads to the charger...
Obd1 vr with 262cams,mk4headgasket giac software VF gave me stg 2.. Please don't tell me my chargers messed up

_Modified by MR 2.GO at 3:45 PM 9-1-2008_

Sounds like the output shaft seal is leaking.
To replace the output shaft seal is not that bad, prolly cost you $100-150 tops to have some one do it. 
How tight are you running the belt?


----------



## MR 2.GO (Apr 10, 2007)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

I don't have the specs on how tight. I just give it a nice pull back, nothen extreme just to keep the belt tight.. Anyone else hear metal noises from the charger? Like metal spining on something. Meaning maybe turbin(impelar) touching housing?


----------



## abt cup (Aug 1, 2000)

*FV-QR*

I've got about 60k on my V9...so far its running,sounding fine. Its also tapped at the pan. Its a stage 2. People have been tapping the pan ever since AMS came out with their SC kit about 10 years ago. I don't really recall people having drainage issues with their setups. All of a sudden when V9's started failing...Vortech wants you to start tapping the block. There is no way I'm going to drill a hole in my block.
I do get oil inside the inlet tube, always have. Stock you get oil inside the intake tube. I'll clean it out about every 5k.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (abt cup)*

updating this thread a little.
same setup as before - just a short runner, fmic, some pipes, and C2's newest 30# software. did some quick logs, nothing WOT, saw a 30* temp drop. 
manifold will come off soon, doing the phenolic spacer to help with heat transfer. also redoing some small things, and having the pipes either powder coated, chromed, or something to not rust. onto the pics
before








after(cell phone pic







)


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (-THROTTLE-)*

10psi w/IC, ceramic bearings, Aeromotive adj FPR, C2 tune. 








Bumped it up to 12.5psi, but the impeller went supersonic after 6400rpms, so I lowered it back down to 10psi. Time for something that flows a lot more air than a V9......


----------



## VW Acolyte (Sep 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (DeckManDubs)*

uuuggghhhh, i want a charger sooo bad







i need money nooooowwww!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (DeckManDubs)*

deckman - vortech does have that upgrade deal going..you could go for a v1/2 with a nice t-trim iirc...


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (-THROTTLE-)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_deckman - vortech does have that upgrade deal going..you could go for a v1/2 with a nice t-trim iirc...

PM me with some details, I have been leaning towards a T-Trim V1 to get the #'s I am looking for.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (DeckManDubs)*

The upgrade is for stage 3 and 4 R32 owners as far as I know. When my V9 wen't I asked about the upgrade and was told no dice.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_The upgrade is for stage 3 and 4 R32 owners as far as I know. When my V9 wen't I asked about the upgrade and was told no dice.

steve, do you mean thru VF or vortech? vortech has their own upgrade program...
edit for link:
http://vortechsuperchargers.co...ogram


_Modified by -THROTTLE- at 9:04 AM 9-24-2008_


----------



## lbonser (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (-THROTTLE-)*

agreed the upgrade program is a good idea, but why upgrade to a V1?? the V2 has helical gears (substantially quieter) and has a higher addiabatic.....just curious.
also, and I know you can do this; you'll need to make a completely new mounting flange/motor mount to create the space required for the V1/V2 unit over the V9.
I have mine...and it's quite a piece of work.


_Modified by lbonser at 2:23 PM 9-24-2008_


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (-THROTTLE-)*


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 14, 2008)

*FV-QR*

I'm really glad to see that this thread is still going. You guys rock, even though I am holding off on my FI plans for the moment. I haven't had a chance to read through the thread, but I'll update the first couple posts soon. 
-Chad


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_ however I am being slightly drawn towards a Procharger D1 series charger to be able to push up to 1400 cfm's. 
Well first off I will call Vortech and see what the deal is, then decide how I want to continue on.
The setups next point is this:
256 cams
Walbro 255lph pump
42lb injectors
9:1 HG spacer
ARP head studs
TT down pipe
Test Pipe
4" MAF
V1 T-trim/Procharger D1 (might just do a V1 S-trim as you can make 1000 cfm's/18psi off that unit)

I have run out of steam this year more or less so I am prolly just going to be lazy and not do anything till spring. 

_Modified by DeckManDubs at 9:56 AM 9-24-2008_

look into the procharger, if i had time and resources, i would try to fit one of those. procharger/cogs would be killer








then i can buy one after you work all the kinks out


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (ThaCorradoKid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ThaCorradoKid* »_
look into the procharger, if i had time and resources, i would try to fit one of those. procharger/cogs would be killer








then i can buy one after you work all the kinks out









http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (DeckManDubs)*

Got a bunch of new things in, both maintenance and upgrades, once I get it all squared away, I'll list and throw up some shots of it all. Be a little bit, but it should be worth it.


----------



## Dubbed_Monk (Feb 18, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (DeckManDubs)*

Wanted to know if you called Vortch to see if you can upgrade your v9?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Dubbed_Monk)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Dubbed_Monk* »_Wanted to know if you called Vortch to see if you can upgrade your v9?


The offer does not apply to V9's


----------



## 92vrcorrado (Feb 12, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (DeckManDubs)*

I am getting a V-1 C2 S/C kit off of a customer but it needs a rebuild... Should I do the upgade then or wait till I go froged internals?
Oh whats up Justin?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (92vrcorrado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *92vrcorrado* »_I am getting a V-1 C2 S/C kit off of a customer but it needs a rebuild... Should I do the upgade then or wait till I go froged internals?
Oh whats up Justin?

What is your plan on the setup? You wont make enough power off of a V1 or V2 even in T-trim to need forged internals. You would need ~1400-1600cfm sized charger to really push the bottom end on a VR6.
Feel free to PM me.


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (DeckManDubs)*

DMD, you have pm.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (dr. b)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dr. b* »_DMD, you have pm.

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (92vrcorrado)*

Hey Shelby, good luck with that DMD def knows his stuff.








Got the tubing run and part of the electricals for the water/meth kit.
Hoping next weekend or the one after to do the cams/lifters/springs and timing stuff. 
Thanks for the tip on the jam nut Shelby, controlled it mostly. Just gotta get it on a lift and make sure it's all secure. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 92vrcorrado (Feb 12, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (dasGolf01)*

Yeah I have been talking to DMD for a little while. Glad to here I could help. It just felt like a loose jam nut whe I drove it, but I would check everything as I think you will.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (92vrcorrado)*

OK, noobie question, but so far all the info here has been great and helped me start to make sense of my kit.
I have a hybrid kit with a V9-F, VF mount, C2 36# chip, 36# injectors, 4" MAF, etc.
I am going to be installing the kit myself, so if anyone has links to a DIY install, that would be great.
Other than that, does anyone know where to get a pre-fabbed inlet pipe and charger to TB pipe? I would prefer 4" throughout instead of stepping down with silicone, etc. (except at the stock TB of course).
Please lay some knowledge on me, I need it.


----------



## hover (Mar 9, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Beastie97)*

Alright. I have my username back, and my car back on the road. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4103192
Now, perhaps I can add some things to the beginning of the thread if anything needs to be up there. If you have something that you feel should be linked at the beginning of the thread, then please send me a PM, and I will get on it.
Thanks All.
-Chad


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

here is my archived install & issues thread. Very informative, srry some pics no longer hosted. 
~ http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2750669
~ http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2847952
~ http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2932002


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

wow I hope I don't have any of those issues. thanks for the info, expect countless questions from me in the coming months as it seems like you've been through it all...


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

I haven't read anything in this thread about the ZR1 kit. Does anyone have any info on them? Every search comes up with something about corvettes.


----------



## Gaets (Feb 8, 2005)

*Re: (Banana.Phone)*

my z-engineering setup
not the best picture








6lb pulley
C2 30# software


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

Beastie, I have the VF stuff posted as well if you want to give a look at their information..
http://people.virginia.edu/~jgw5k/SC/ 
Pics and the PDF from my CD they sent me. Good luck.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

thanks das. I will keep it on hand. I have the instructions from VF but they seem a bit vague. I'm on a MK3 12v so install will be different, but this will help none the less.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TrierBora (Jun 20, 2002)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

Been charged for a year and a half but just ran into this thread... 
97 GTI, 80k miles, stock engine with a 2.9 manifold. 
Full C2 kit w/ V2SQ blower, 30lb inj, bigger maf, stock pulley (8.5#), 
NGK BRK7's, gapped at .025 
My waterpump pulley just took a dump so I will be updating to c2's new 30# software, and the 2.75 pulley. Also looking into Water Meth to keep it cool. 
No dyno as of yet but I plan to once the new waterpump and pulleys are on. 
Anyone try running the gruven parts billet waterpump pulley? 
I also want to smooth my a/c pulley to help extend belt life. 
Edit for Pics... 



















_Modified by TrierBora at 4:02 PM 11-6-2008_


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

*Re: (Gaets)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Gaets* »_my z-engineering setup
not the best picture

6lb pulley
C2 30# software 

Have you had any problems? I've heard they have a short life span. How does it sound aswell?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (TrierBora)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TrierBora* »_Been charged for a year and a half but just ran into this thread... 
97 GTI, 80k miles, stock engine with a 2.9 manifold. 
Full C2 kit w/ V2SQ blower, 30lb inj, bigger maf, stock pulley (8.5#), 
NGK BRK7's, gapped at .025 
My waterpump pulley just took a dump so I will be updating to c2's new 30# software, and the 2.75 pulley. Also looking into Water Meth to keep it cool. 
No dyno as of yet but I plan to once the new waterpump and pulleys are on. 
Anyone try running the gruven parts billet waterpump pulley? 
I also want to smooth my a/c pulley to help extend belt life. 
I'll add pics when I get home http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


do me a favor and post in here when you try their new 30# stuff. i had issues with mine, sent it back, and now use my old c2 software again. car runs fine on the old stuff, and like hell on the new stuff. c2 and i tried several different things, it just didnt work.


----------



## TrierBora (Jun 20, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

you runnin the old one that doesn't use the 02's right? Thats what I have right now... 
Did you keep it at the 2.75 pulley?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (TrierBora)*

its version 1.34 iirc. it uses the front o2, they all do. the new one ran lean under boost, and was ALL over the place while cruising. spoke to c2, tried a 4bar fpr, good under boost, but would take two cranks to start the car up, and again, all over for a/f's.
may have been a bad eprom, who knows. my old stuff works, got me my 12.5, im happy
aout my pulley - i posted in your other thread asking about it. stock compression, unintercooled, 2.87" pulley - saw 14psi on my gauge, and 12psi on a dyno using a 3bar to read boost.
anything smaller tends to slip, then most try to stop slip by OVER tightening the belt, leading to premature bearing failure, whether it be you blower, waterpump, alt, etc
about dyno figs, i saw 286whp and 225wtq on my old setup and ran lean over 5k. with the new setup and proper fueling, i should be over 300whp


_Modified by -THROTTLE- at 3:50 PM 11-6-2008_


----------



## TrierBora (Jun 20, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

See I think I already overtightened my belt as it was since my w/p pulley just went. 
Are you changing out the 30# injectors to get to the 300 whp or what are you doing to the fueling? 
I dont plan to run smaller than the 2.75... I dont want slip and Im not trying to make a crazy track car just something that catches people by surprise and looks good doing it. 
I must have a really old version as I dont run ANY 02. I need to pull out the vagcom and double check...


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (TrierBora)*

check with your vagcom. curious to see what you run. im still on 30# software/injectors, and wont change. i am going to try to dyno saturday, we will see. but 286whp and lean over 5000rpm was close. you can see on the dyno sheet that when it started to go lean i held about the same power to redline.
i ran lean due to only having an intank pump. now i have a 190lph inline as well, and a/f's are dead on. 








edit - if you click the dyno link in my sig you can see the readout with boost. its a 12psi pulley, on a bad belt. that belt was missing ribs and all when i was on the rollers










_Modified by -THROTTLE- at 5:30 PM 11-6-2008_


----------



## TrierBora (Jun 20, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

So I should buy an inline for reliability then? I dont want it leaning out and going boom... 
Im also at 7000 ft above sealevel but the last thing I want to do is swap in a new engine...


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (TrierBora)*

i would. 150-190lph is good enough. the turbo guys need to go bigger, but for us, its enough.
jeff actually recommended those, so i took his word on it, and so far so good.


----------



## TrierBora (Jun 20, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Cool, I'll put it on the list. Damnit...more funds to raise... must sell more parts


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (TrierBora)*

join the club. lmk if you have any questions


----------



## TrierBora (Jun 20, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Gaets (Feb 8, 2005)

*Re: (Banana.Phone)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Banana.Phone* »_Have you had any problems? I've heard they have a short life span. How does it sound aswell?

no problems, its my daily when im not at school. as for sound, its pretty quiet but i dont have cogged pulleys. i just get some belt squeal every once and a while


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (92vrcorrado)*

With a little luck, the cams, lifters, springs and upper timing guides/tensioner go in tomorrow. Continue working on running the water/meth kit... hopefully by Monday things will be running even better.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (dasGolf01)*

Almost done with the mounting of the water meth kit, well the hardware portion, starting the wiring this weekend. 








Grommets on either side for ground and power wires and then tubing. Going to vent the top for cooling the pump some. Tubing is already ran through the cabin, just need to wire up the controller and mount the nozzles.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (dasGolf01)*

How many people are running catch cans with their S/C setups? Should I do it when I install my kit? I'm going to run a setrab oil cooler as it is. I'm slightly concerned with how many things are going to be siphoning off oil as it is without throwing a catch can in to the mix.


_Modified by Beastie97 at 5:30 PM 11-17-2008_


----------



## thisismike (Aug 30, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (Beastie97)*


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

you should def run a cc even if just to keep the intake/TB clean. Its also a good measure of your engine condition(ie v. seals/rings). 
I run one. 
Now it gets a bit vauge but there are catch cans & breathers, what you need is a breathable catch can. it still must vent.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (thisismike)*


_Quote, originally posted by *thisismike* »_









How does the Quickflow do with the coolant lines and the thermostat housing in the clearance area?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_you should def run a cc even if just to keep the intake/TB clean. Its also a good measure of your engine condition(ie v. seals/rings). 
I run one. 
Now it gets a bit vauge but there are catch cans & breathers, what you need is a breathable catch can. it still must vent. 

Will this one work?
http://www.mikenorrismotorspor....html
If not, any links to good breathable cc setups to run? Pictures? Does anyone have a diagram of how EVERYTHING pertaining to the charger install is supposed to be connected, what goes where, etc? A simple hand drawn diagram would be brilliant.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


_Modified by Beastie97 at 8:54 AM 11-18-2008_


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

its common to just put a small filter on the crank breaker(plastic corrugated hose in front of Alt.)
as for valve cover, a small filer here can get soaked & make a oily/stinkin mess. I've seen a dump hose to direct fumes under car, a hose run to a breather box, that drips to a CC, or a vented CC.
There is no need to spend $100, but CNC'd parts, eay drainage (petcocks), bling and more can easily yield that $. 
I will later post a few pics of what I had done for about $15.
basically you want the v. cover to allow filtered breathing and evacuation/capture of oil vapor. 
- running a hose from VC to a breathable/filtered can that will catch the oil.
another option is to recirculate the lines back into the system while running a a breathable CC in a loop. Not often done as it requires 2x as much fittings/hose and can be quite 'busy' lookin.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

so, if I have the VR6 that already has the crank case breather, is it still necessary to run a cc with a breather?


----------



## thisismike (Aug 30, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (DeckManDubs)*

no problems at all.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_so, if I have the VR6 that already has the crank case breather, is it still necessary to run a cc with a breather?
 the CC breathe ris usually added by anyone who eliminated the factory airbox. normally there is a plastic tube/hose here to box. 
This doesnt really blow oil, but does need to breath. 
The VC def. needs to beath & more so on hi-perf./hi rev. or FI engines. 
you can combine both to a common breather boc that dumps to a single CC.
or just lv. breather filter on CCase breather & run the VCbthr to a vented catch can.
For a while I ran just filtered off VC, then just w/ a dump hose to near ground & then to a vented catch can.
I ran the VC ruuber hose along harness atop rain tray(to keep warm=vaporized), then to a vented bottle mounted near FCM.
here is the ghetto breather can I made. When full, I would just unscrew lid, remove bottom & dump. Now its catching quarts to often as my rings are shot & pressurizing the head as well as bad v. seals. I have more smoke from my breather than i do my exhaust, moslty oily vapor mess. I am planning on a rebuilt/replacement soon.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

ok, i'm really showing how uneducated I am here, but at least I'm trying.
So, my understanding of the necessity of venting the valve cover is because you have vacuum at idle but none at WOT, but when you introduce an FI system, you are pressurizing the intake air and will need a way to vent that pressure.
so, doesnt my diverter valve relieve the pressure built up by the supercharger, then making it redundant to run a vented catch can / valve cover? Or am I still missing the point???








thanks
here's an article i found that makes a little sense to me, but again, there is no mention of a diverter valve or BOV, so I'm wondering if that replaces the necessity for all this rigamaroll
http://www.5ccreations.com/pcvart.htm 


_Modified by Beastie97 at 3:15 PM 11-19-2008_


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

pressure is built up in your motor, with or without boost. the crankcase breather allows that pressure to be released. think of it like a soda can. shake it up and eventually it will pop, or wants to anyway. same deal here.
you are right though, with boost your dv/bov releases pressurized air. but thats a different pressure alltogether compared to the pressure your motor builds on its own.
i run a 3/4" hose down to the ground. no issues here.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

ok, so im sitting here looking through this entire post again, looking at engine bay shots and seeing these anonymous black rubber hoses coming out of the PCV spot. Is that all it is? Just a black rubber hose vented to the ground? What happens when you are at idle and pulling vaccuum? are you not sucking dirt from the ground straight up into your engine? Others have just put another filter there, like the one that you put on the crank case vent. but i guess the critique there is that it will mist your TB with oil vapor? thanks man, this is starting to make sense!
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

to be honest, ive never had an issue. mine is just under the a-arm, so its still a bit away from the ground.
and yes, its done to prevent oil being blown onto your throttle body, and into your intake manifold. keeps the air cleaner, and not contaminated with oil particles.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

thank you so much, it all makes sense now. the option that corrado magic was talking about is just a "green" way of doing it, right? basically since the intake boot is a straight pipe, there is no way for the PCV to push oil vapor back in to the intake to be burnt. if you dont close that off with a hose or something, then oil vapor sprays all over the TB and intake mani. so all that breathable catch can does is collect the vapor and allow the system to breathe under FI conditions. so the hose is just a non green way of fixing the problem. let the vapor release somewhere away from the engine.
what if you used a hose from the pcv to the a-arm and put a filter at the end of the hose, like the same filter as the crank case vent? that way you could be sure to keep it clean.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

I ran a hose to the ground for a while. It dripped some in my driveway & it was fresh blacktop, so I went can route. I also started pushing more oil/vapor & the idea of dirt coming into the intake wasnt a nice one. 

Yes, you can filter the line near bottom. but because the filter eventually becomes saturated/is close to ground its suseptable to catching more grime/dirt.
Not necessarily green, but clean'er
I also wasnt comfortable with the idea of an oil line near my wheels/tires & it wouldnt pass tech inspection so I eventually went to a catch can breather

stock
http://i307.photobucket.com/al...8.jpg
straight filtered on VC
http://i16.photobucket.com/alb...8.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/al...6.jpg
dump hose
http://img.photobucket.com/alb...6.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/alb...7.jpg

various breather cans
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4097466 just filter other inlet
http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_...l.jpg
http://vwtech.no-ip.info/images/golf/catchtank.jpg
recirculation breathers
http://i194.photobucket.com/al...5.jpg




_Modified by CorradoMagic at 7:44 PM 11-19-2008_


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

good references, thanks a lot! That bahn-brenner unit looks like a winner especially at $40 bux.


_Modified by Beastie97 at 9:43 AM 11-20-2008_


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

another question for those of you running C2s software and 4" MAF housing.
are you running a 3" filter to a 3" reducer to the 4" MAF housing, then back to a 3" reducer to the charger or what? and then a 3" intake pipe from the charger to the TB? or is everything converted over to 4" with just a reducer before and after the charger and then obviously one at the TB?


----------



## Gaets (Feb 8, 2005)

*Re: (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_another question for those of you running C2s software and 4" MAF housing.
are you running a 3" filter to a 3" reducer to the 4" MAF housing, then back to a 3" reducer to the charger or what? and then a 3" intake pipe from the charger to the TB? or is everything converted over to 4" with just a reducer before and after the charger and then obviously one at the TB?

I have a 4in filter into the 4in maf then a reducer


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (Gaets)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## MR 2.GO (Apr 10, 2007)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

finally got my charger back after almost a month and a half from a warranty job. hit the dyno numbers arent great but it was fun








mustang dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELVibt0J2co
IKNOW ITS NOT A 12.8 CAR before u guys try to down it... i didnt edit the video by the way


_Modified by MR 2.GO at 11:26 AM 11-24-2008_


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (MR 2.GO)*

^^
What's your setup? Boost?Mods?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (MR 2.GO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MR 2.GO* »_IKNOW ITS NOT A 12.8 CAR before u guys try to down it... i didnt edit the video by the way

it would be if you put some time into the car and the drivers seat http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif looks good either way


----------



## MR 2.GO (Apr 10, 2007)

*Re: (slc92)*

v9 stage 2 8psi,262 cams lsd 10b flywheel magnaflow 2.25 no cat .5 motormounts


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (MR 2.GO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MR 2.GO* »_v9 stage 2 8psi,262 cams lsd 10b flywheel magnaflow 2.25 no cat .5 motormounts 

220whp? Is that dyno accurate? I'm thinking you should be ~250ish.
I made 237whp(dynojet) w/ pretty much the same setup and running way lean on VF's chip. With the C2 chip I was most likely ~250whp at 8psi.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (MR 2.GO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MR 2.GO* »_v9 stage 2 8psi,262 cams lsd 10b flywheel magnaflow 2.25 no cat .5 motormounts 

220whp sounds bout right for a Mustang dyno. Without the correction factor it should be around 230whp. The 262 cams should put it round 240-250whp on a Mustang. Any A/F readings for the run?


----------



## MR 2.GO (Apr 10, 2007)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

thats wats happening im goin real lean uptop.. and no that dyno isnt accurate... my last dyno was only 160whp


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (MR 2.GO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MR 2.GO* »_thats wats happening im goin real lean uptop.. and no that dyno isnt accurate... my last dyno was only 160whp 

Oh ok. Any A/F #'s? For some reason VF's chips do not seem to be able to handle cams like C2's stuff can. My car ran 15:1 from 4500 rpm on w/ dsr 256's, ported head, test pipe, tt2.5. Enter C2 chip and bam 11-11.5:1 A/F and the car was noticeably faster.
Are you 95' Obd1? I would say try a C2 chip but their 95' tune is for 36# inj.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (slc92)*

As far as I have been able to figure out, the VF/GIAC tune is more of a mapped tune that does not allow too much deviations on the software. The C2 tune relies on A/F readings and MAF readings allowing more flexibility. I found on 8psi that the GIAC software was very very good, however the cold starts were a pain in the neck. The C2 software the cold starts are a breeze, but it still runs pig rich and bucks on part throttle (possibly from the ported TB that could be causing a slight difference in the air metering. 
Get a C2 chip and it should put you ~250whp on the Mustang dyno's.


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

Not to continue the thread jacking anymore but next time forget about the video and get the run file.


----------



## MR 2.GO (Apr 10, 2007)

*Re: (slc92)*

thats the plan


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (MR 2.GO)*

Anyone know of a good dyno in the central Virginia area? Just finishing up my water/meth right now and will be doing cams, lifters, springs, etc shortly. Want to see what the fruits of the labors and $ are. Thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

C2 chip also requires the use of a 4" MAF housing and 36# injectors to run correctly, assuming of course you're running the stage II 8psi pulley on your setup. A small additional investment, but well worth it from what I hear. I'll give you a first hand assessment next week as my kit is going in on saturday/sunday. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

too bad that ^ is not avail for OBD1 CP Corrados








I have exceeded the load limits of MAF & 30# & it sucks hitting a wall from running out of fueling.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

really? i find that hard to believe. is it just space constraints? like you cant fit the 4" MAF housing in the engine bay/bumper anywhere? cause my vr is a coilpack obd1 and thats what its made for.
if not, just call up chris and get him to make you a custom tune.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

I have the custom tune. its Corrado specific OBD1 coipack. The maf is 6 pin. tuning w/ a 36# wont do a thing for up top since the load limits are exceeded on 3"MAF. 
They recently has a 3+ month opportunity to make this configuration work, it didnt & the customer pulled his car sinc ehis hood wasnt evenopened after 3 mos. 
C2 is working w/ VW these days from what the lil birdies tell me. OBD1, back burner projects will be a pushed way off. hopefully thats all for those who still deal w/ em'


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

So after I get all my parts slapped in, I'm debating going with a C2 tune as I am figuring the GIAC isn't going to take into consideration the cams, water/meth, etc. It's tuned for the VF kit more or less. How much is the custom tune or does C2 have a "general" tune that would work with that?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_So after I get all my parts slapped in, I'm debating going with a C2 tune as I am figuring the GIAC isn't going to take into consideration the cams, water/meth, etc. It's tuned for the VF kit more or less. How much is the custom tune or does C2 have a "general" tune that would work with that? 

MK4? You can get their 36# Flash tune.
https://www.c2motorsports.net/....aspx
The GIAC file will not support cams/WM without some minor tuning.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

Thanks amigo, I appreciate the response! 
That's my next step then once all the parts are done. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

worked on my install yesterday and today. still have a lot to do, but the big stuff is done. thanks to everyone who helped!

I REALLY need to locate a serpentine belt. didnt see it before but mine is sliced almost in half.
where do I get one? 61.5" correct? I just don't know where to order it from and I need to install it wednesday!
please help! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by Beastie97 at 6:34 PM 11-30-2008_


_Modified by Beastie97 at 6:41 PM 11-30-2008_


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

get it done and get to the track! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

Autozone or a Napa should have a Gates belt in 61.5" size


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

sliced belts are from C2 pullies that have sharply machined edges/ribs & or combo of over tightening. Vortech pullies are nicer and can easily be found thru summit, etc.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

where can i get a new 8psi vortech pulley from online? i have a stage 2 VF kit, but my pulley is damaged. all i see are 6 rib and 8 rib pulleys and i dont know what the diameter is for the 8psi pulley. do you get the 8 rib pulley and run a 7 rib belt on it? or do you get a 6 rib pulley and run a 6 rib belt instead? thanks.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

you can get the 8 rib pulley & a matching 8 rib belt. Your OEM pullies are 7 rib. No one makes a 7 rib belt that matches kit. You can just buy the 8 rib belt ( I find Contitech to be the best ribbed belts) & then trim 1 rib off (to make 7).
then you'll be running 7 ribs on all your pullies(more grip, less slip)


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

just thought of another question:
I will be running NGK BKR5EKU spark plugs which are stock for VR6. Is this correct type? should I be running different plugs? What is the proper gap for this setup?










_Modified by Beastie97 at 4:13 PM 12-1-2008_


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

NGK BKR6E is fine. U dont need ...6EKU
6 is 1 stage colder, 7 is 2 stages colder. 
NGK is cheap & good. DOnt use platinums.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_NGK BKR6E is fine. U dont need ...6EKU
6 is 1 stage colder, 7 is 2 stages colder. 
NGK is cheap & good. DOnt use platinums. 

exactly. basic plugs are the best. no dual tips and all that junk. 
i must warn you - if you go with the 7s, youll need to replace the at 10,000miles. look them up on google, it states it everywhere. i had 14k on mine, saw that they needed to be changed at 10k, swapped them out, and it made a huge performance difference since the motor ran right.


----------



## sgt snuffles (Aug 16, 2007)

just got my kit on this weekend, v1 charger 8 psi pulley, anyone know what the belt size is for a non a/c car? i looked everywhere and cant find it. im running like a 59 or 60 cant remeber and its almost hitting the fuel rail.
also ill be running the 12psi pulley soon so whats the best/tighest belt to run on 12psi no a/c?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (sgt snuffles)*

i run a 59" belt on my setup, no ac. no issues with the fuel rail. some people have had to bend the rail a bit at the end to make room.


----------



## sgt snuffles (Aug 16, 2007)

yeah we just couldnt get a belt the right size at the time and i needed to get home, umm what pulley are you running? im curious cuz im running a 3.125 no a/c we first had a 58 5/8 belt and we needed quite a bit more room, like an inch- 2.


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_
exactly. basic plugs are the best. no dual tips and all that junk. 
i must warn you - if you go with the 7s, youll need to replace the at 10,000miles. look them up on google, it states it everywhere. i had 14k on mine, saw that they needed to be changed at 10k, swapped them out, and it made a huge performance difference since the motor ran right.

I agree. I tend to change them every 3-5k as 1) they're only $2 a plug and 2) I usually notice a significant difference espically on 1.8t's.. they seem to go through them faster then VRs.


----------



## rajvosa71000 (Jun 9, 2004)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*

Why not get BKR7EIX Iridium, you can keep them longer and they supposedly burn better


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (sgt snuffles)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sgt snuffles* »_yeah we just couldnt get a belt the right size at the time and i needed to get home, umm what pulley are you running? im curious cuz im running a 3.125 no a/c we first had a 58 5/8 belt and we needed quite a bit more room, like an inch- 2.


i run a dual idler, might be whats making the difference. 2.87" pulley here
about iridium plugs. i here ya on lasting longer, just never bothered with them. may try them next season on my quest for 11's http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_NGK BKR6E is fine. U dont need ...6EKU
6 is 1 stage colder, 7 is 2 stages colder. 
NGK is cheap & good. DOnt use platinums. 

so the BKR5EKU that I already bought are ok, or should I go with the BKR6E???
are they pre-gapped appropriately or do I need to verify .026???


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

c2 software requires it to be down to .24 iirc, but i may be wrong. id have to check my notes.
you should be fine with the 7eku's, though id try to just get 7e's instead


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_c2 software requires it to be down to .24 iirc, but i may be wrong. id have to check my notes.
you should be fine with the 7eku's, though id try to just get 7e's instead

wait, i'm confused because mine are 5's: BKR5EKU


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

Jeff at C2 said to run NGK BKR7E's gapped at .024"
I guess I will run the 5s I have until I can order some 7's


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

the stock plug gapping is closer to .028-.030 this is too large for FI as basically the spark gets blown out under high boost. .023-.025 is better. you'll see the range on gapping disc. 
5's are fine for NA & maybe upto 6# but beyond should be 6 or 7.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_
wait, i'm confused because mine are 5's: BKR5EKU

sorry, thought you said you had 6's. 5's are too hot. rule of thumb if for every additional 50hp, you drop 1 heat range in plugs. ii do NOT suggest you run the 5's. dont want to melt a piston


----------



## sgt snuffles (Aug 16, 2007)

BKr6E just do it gap to .024 best plug 
chargers are alot more tame than turbos i run the that plug and love it plus there like 1.50 each cant go wrong


----------



## BlueMk3VR6 (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (sgt snuffles)*

BKR7E's are cheap and you can get them at any Advance Auto Parts store for about $1.99/each. I have been running them for years now with my setup gapped at 0.024-0.025" and don't have any issues at all. If you live in hotter/humid climate, you should stick with the 7E's.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (BlueMk3VR6)*

BKR7E's here as well. Ran them at .028 and 11.5psi w/ the SC. .022-.028 and ~9psi w/ the turbo. Never had an issue w/ the larger .028 gap. I personally don't get the small gap at modest boost levels (up to ~12psi). My stock GTI came with a .032 gap if I'm not mistaken and stock boost is ~11-12psi. Some swear they needed to run .022 even at 10psi. I guess whatever works.


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (slc92)*

I run the same but I use the iridiums. Mine is gapped at .030 but I also run a MSD 6AL ignition box


----------



## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

*Re: (slc92)*

Heres a quick question, can you put straight cut gears in a V9 (24V kit)?


----------



## anti_christ (Nov 26, 2008)

*Re: (RipCity Euros)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RipCity Euros* »_Heres a quick question, can you put straight cut gears in a V9 (24V kit)?









vortech does not make any.....but you could spend $$$ and have a set made


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (RipCity Euros)*

the money youd spend to have it made, you could get yourself different brackets made, buy a used v1 and call it a day...
some people are traders and go turbo though


----------



## sgt snuffles (Aug 16, 2007)

to the guys running Diverter valves/ can you hear it when it opens up? and what kind are you guys running?
im running stock Bosch plastic from a 1.8t right no with a 10psi spring, i had a TT with a 15psi in but thought it was to much for 8 psi pulley, cause i cant hear mine at all, i kinda wanna hear the WWOOOSH! haha


_Modified by sgt snuffles at 6:42 PM 12-3-2008_


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_the money youd spend to have it made, you could get yourself different brackets made, buy a used v1 and call it a day...
some people are traders and go turbo though









Only person to go from SC to turbo and run less boost







I give up


----------



## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

*Re: (anti_christ)*


_Quote, originally posted by *anti_christ* »_
vortech does not make any.....but you could spend $$$ and have a set made

That really sucks.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_
Only person to go from SC to turbo and run less boost







I give up






























just bustin your balls steve http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
you did once post in a thread - ill never go turbo...


----------



## 631 Corrado (Jan 14, 2003)

*Re: (sgt snuffles)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sgt snuffles* »_to the guys running Diverter valves/ can you hear it when it opens up? and what kind are you guys running?
im running stock Bosch plastic from a 1.8t right no with a 10psi spring, i had a TT with a 15psi in but thought it was to much for 8 psi pulley, cause i cant hear mine at all, i kinda wanna hear the WWOOOSH! haha

_Modified by sgt snuffles at 6:42 PM 12-3-2008_

im running about 14 lbs and i have an apr r1 diverter valve, its quiet but you head a whoosh when you build full boost


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (631 Corrado)*

finished installing my kit last night. everything is great except my C2 chip (which I got used) has a broken prong. I'm hoping they'll swap it out for me
I am in serious need of a new charge pipe (as you can tell from my pics) so if anyone knows where I can get a good one on the cheap, I would really appreciate it. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Here's some of my pics:
How it all started:








Stock engine bay:
































Billet aluminum crack pipe installed:








Thermostatic sandwich plate for the oil cooler installed:
























MMMMMMMMM That's a sexy bitch right there!
































4" aluminum MAF housing:









































_Modified by Beastie97 at 10:45 AM 12-4-2008_


----------



## anti_christ (Nov 26, 2008)

*Re: (Beastie97)*









use a 45 degree fitting or slightly rotate the 90 degree fitting to allow better drainage. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (anti_christ)*

yeah, i was worried about that. I had previously turned the 90 down further to make a straighter drain tube, but it was VERY close to the belt then and I didn't want to interfere with the belt. there was like 1-2mm of clearance when I did that. Is that enough? should i get another fitting to make it work better?
thanks!


----------



## anti_christ (Nov 26, 2008)

*Re: (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_yeah, i was worried about that. I had previously turned the 90 down further to make a straighter drain tube, but it was VERY close to the belt then and I didn't want to interfere with the belt. there was like 1-2mm of clearance when I did that. Is that enough? should i get another fitting to make it work better?
thanks!

since the V9 spins pretty fast, and is known to have issues with drainage, I would suggest making that drain line as straight and high-flow as possible. change the fitting and route accordingly.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

since the bumper is off now, and its a known issue, I'd relocate the MAF & filter a min. 18" from charger.
ideally its filter-18", MAF, 18" to charger. spaced out over 36", kinda tough but basically the MAF can lower more towords bottom, then 90* elbow the filter to around center area of bumper.
I use a Pre-filter screen & it works wonders. Helps keep water & debris off filter, extends cleaning intervals. 
If you can, paint the inside of th epipe as to not have rust particals(metal) blown into engine)


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

The one time I talked to C2 directly, they said I could just clamp the filter on to the MAF housing. I have, however, heard about these problems. I need to get replacement software and see how she runs and if there are problems, I will definitely re-route the filter to space it away from the charger.
thanks


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_yeah, i was worried about that. I had previously turned the 90 down further to make a straighter drain tube, but it was VERY close to the belt then and I didn't want to interfere with the belt. there was like 1-2mm of clearance when I did that. Is that enough? should i get another fitting to make it work better?
thanks!


I recommend running something like this. If you're still having fitment issues you can pick up a 45 to attach to the 90 to turn it down or away from the alternator even further. Both fittings and line can be sourced at FlnMar.










_Modified by MeCarTay at 1:28 PM 12-4-2008_


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MeCarTay* »_
I recommend running something like this. If you're still having fitment issues you can pick up a 45 to attach to the 90 to turn it down or away from the alternator even further. Both fittings and line can be sourced at FlnMar.


looks like a winner there http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sgt snuffles (Aug 16, 2007)

anyone running the 15psi pulley or 2.5inch one? im just wondering if belt slip is that big like i hear from my buddy, is it even worth it over the 12psi one i mean power wise.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

I have the 2.5" pulley on my set up. I'm running a Eurovan Vr OEM belt and no slipping for me. Before I installed the pulley I roughed it up on a laith with some sand paper.


_Modified by littlenr at 8:24 AM 12-5-2008_


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_I have the 2.5" pulley ---- I roughed it up on a laith with some sand paper.
_Modified by littlenr at 8:24 AM 12-5-2008_

great idea, highly recommended. The C2 pullies have uber sharp ribs. seems the thinner sharper ribs slip more in the serpentine ribs and overtightening causes 'cut through'


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

putting that 2.5" on a v1 or v9?
i know of 2 cars that tried the 15psi pulley and nothing but belt slip at higher rpms. some have luck with it, some dont. you really dont need much more than the 2.87 to get the job done. 
the fastest s/c'd vr's on here arent over 12


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

*FV-QR*

if anyone is going to run a small pulley id recommend going with a dual idler set up to help increase belt tension on the charger pulley and also to help increase belt to pulley surface area both of these aspects will help decrease you chance of belt slippage.
i know C2 used to and still may sell the parts to convert your existing charger to have a 2nd idler or if need be i could probably piece together the parts and info to do it for who ever needs it if C2 isn't any longer offering the parts.
either way its a cheap and easy upgrade that makes life so much better in the long run. or so it did on my project car.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

I did this on a V-9. No issues for me.


----------



## sgt snuffles (Aug 16, 2007)

its for a v1 im interested in a dual idler set up


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (littlenr)*

V9's tend to have less 'slipping' issues than V2 or esp. V1's due the less rotational mass & gearing resistance


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

I would love to get into a v-1 t-trim charger with the dual idler pulleys or a separated cogged set up.


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

*Re: (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_I would love to get into a v-1 t-trim charger with the dual idler pulleys or a separated cogged set up.

id totally ditch my dual idler set up and go cogged but thats a lot of loot!...... the dual idler was much cheaper and heck belts are cake to find encase ur on a road tirp ro something andblow one.
is this thread geting clutred w/ all the chit chat or is it ok? just asking as im realyl stoked about a realy through blown vr refrecen thread and dodnt want to cluter it up w/ any non wanted talk.
thanks


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_I would love to get into a v-1 t-trim charger with the dual idler pulleys or a separated cogged set up.

T-trims are nice but if you want a real charger you should look into a Procharger D1 










_Modified by DeckManDubs at 4:16 PM 12-5-2008_


----------



## sgt snuffles (Aug 16, 2007)

nah man its a reference thread ask questions you have about SUPERCHARGER VR's its a wonderful source in hear ; )
yeah it would be bitchn to have cogged set up spin my v1 at 25psi if possible! but they cost and arm and a leg!


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

Cogged V1's are the shiznit!, just have obd2 or standalone tuning cause OBD 1 maf's aint gonna like the CFM's


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_Cogged V1's are the shiznit!, just have obd2 or standalone tuning cause OBD 1 maf's aint gonna like the CFM's









its the corrado/passat style (6 pin IIRC) MAF's that are one piece and don't like the larger CFM rates, mkIII OBD I MAFs are the 4 pin type that are in the "tamper proof" plastic housing, you can easily remove it and install into a 4" AMF housing i.e. the unit C2 sells. mk3 mafs are all interchangeable form what I've seen. read I've swapped mafs between an OBD I and an OBD II 12v vr6 before with no ill effects for either car
that was my experience with them, thus far its limited to that.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

You can get cogged pulleys for the charger and a add on to the alternator and just have the charger running on its own belt. That way if you break a belt you can make it somewhere safe, or home from the track.


----------



## anti_christ (Nov 26, 2008)

*Re: (littlenr)*

I only know of 1 cogged set up on a vr that actually works, and has worked for a while....


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_You can get cogged pulleys for the charger and a add on to the alternator and just have the charger running on its own belt. That way if you break a belt you can make it somewhere safe, or home from the track.

Direct drive drives is the solution, works real well for MK4's due to the frame rail clearance, the charger is driven by a second belt that goes directly from the crank to the charger.

_Quote, originally posted by *anti_christ* »_I only know of 1 cogged set up on a vr that actually works, and has worked for a while....

More info on the setup please


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (anti_christ)*


_Quote, originally posted by *anti_christ* »_I only know of 1 cogged set up on a vr that actually works, and has worked for a while....

I'll raise you one


















_Modified by MeCarTay at 12:35 AM 12-6-2008_


----------



## Nailbunny86 (Oct 18, 2005)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*

^^^
that's sweet is a set up like that available for the MK3 VR with a V1/V2??
or just the V9? so it has to run off a extended Alt pulley theirs no room is there??


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*

id love to run a stock tensioner on my v1 in my mk3. ive looked into ways to do it, but the work wasnt worth the outcome when i dont see much slip anyway, and i know for sure im not over tightening my belt as it is.
if deckman, or verdict motorsport came up with an idea, id buy it in a heart beat though


----------



## sgt snuffles (Aug 16, 2007)

so the cogged pulley set-up cant be run on a v1/2? i was planning on getting a set up next year if the prices ever come down


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (sgt snuffles)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sgt snuffles* »_so the cogged pulley set-up cant be run on a v1/2? i was planning on getting a set up next year if the prices ever come down

sure it can. 
I have the 1st cogged set up on a V1. Uses C2 bracketry a nd I even run AC. good stuff. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sgt snuffles (Aug 16, 2007)

did you get yours from verdict?


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

yes sir! about a year ago. 15#, Obviously no slip, even wear on belt, etc. nice kit http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (Nailbunny86)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Nailbunny86* »_ so it has to run off a extended Alt pulley theirs no room is there??


On the mk3 theres no room for auxiliary drive, on the mk4 its a different story. The mk4 auxiliary drive drives directly from the crank, not sure where the alternator idea came from, but no..

_Quote, originally posted by *groupracer* »_Well after a lot of hard work and trials and tribulations, We have this. I have to thank THE guys at Verdict Motorsports. I knew from the beginning after spending almost a year communicating with Phil and Noah, and finally getting things started earlier this year with an awesome setup that got me 243 whp from 8 psi. Well today they brought the car down after some additional "tweaking" and we went to THE SHOP in Bridgeport for an initial dyno run and well, I'll let the results speak for themselves. 
there's still some work to be done. Since C2's software is really meant for turbo's, I'm a bit rich down low, so we'll dial that out in the spring. The car for now, is going into it's well deserved winter rest...








Thanks guys!!!












































_Modified by MeCarTay at 9:21 PM 12-6-2008_


----------



## anti_christ (Nov 26, 2008)

*Re: (Nailbunny86)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Nailbunny86* »_^^^
that's sweet is a set up like that available for the MK3 VR with a V1/V2??
or just the V9? so it has to run off a extended Alt pulley theirs no room is there??

my V2 runs off of the crank, directly....no belt slip, no tight belt to kill the water pump.....


----------



## Nailbunny86 (Oct 18, 2005)

*Re: (anti_christ)*


_Quote, originally posted by *anti_christ* »_
my V2 runs off of the crank, directly....no belt slip, no tight belt to kill the water pump.....

so how do you have it set up did you make it yourself or is there a kit out there??


----------



## anti_christ (Nov 26, 2008)

*Re: (Nailbunny86)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Nailbunny86* »_
so how do you have it set up did you make it yourself or is there a kit out there??

I'll get pics posted soon....it's mostly a 1-off kit that VF worked on then gave up on.....and I have been finishing.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

How different are the mounting points on a procharger d-1 and vortech v1/v2? Would we be able to use the same brakackets? I've never seen a D-1 out of a car.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_How different are the mounting points on a procharger d-1 and vortech v1/v2? Would we be able to use the same brakackets? I've never seen a D-1 out of a car.

A D1 will require a different bracket on the charger to mate to the bracket on the head. I have not worked on one yet, but nothing a fair amount of engineering and a month or two in R&D cannot solve.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

I have acess to a machine shop. I just have never seen the back of a prcharger to see the diff. I would be installing this set up on a mkIV so new brackets all around would be required. I've been talkin to Phil about options.


----------



## dubstyl (Jun 3, 2002)

*Re: (littlenr)*

My old car, sold it almost 2 years ago. Procharger C1 and intercooler. I started with a C2, turns out the C1 worked better with the VR. Made 330 whp on a Mustang dyno. Stock motor with cams, in tank Ford SVT pump w/ Porsche 930 pump and rrfpr. I can't remember psi, 12-14. Daily drove in for 5 years, 3 of them with boost.
The Skyline made 1130 rwhp.
















New owner took this pic...
























Video goofing around...
http://media.putfile.com/Flametrick-Dub

Video of skyline, if interested...
http://videos.**************/v...0.htm


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (dubstyl)*

^^^^^^^^^^^^^soooooooo sick!


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (mk4vrjtta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk4vrjtta* »_^^^^^^^^^^^^^soooooooo sick!









Agreed... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

*FV-QR*

nice fmic!..... im thining something likethat will be on my car soon


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (dubstyl)*

Is it possible to see the back of the charger? The bracket side!


----------



## Masta Flash (Feb 2, 2006)

*Re: (littlenr)*

Has anyone found a cheaper MKIII Stg 3 belt, I hate paying $80 dollars for them


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (Masta Flash)*

http://www.beltsforanything.com They have just about anything you need


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Masta Flash)*

measure it and see if a local napa store can get you something similar. i do remember AMS had 7rib belts custom made to order with their kits, and they were the only ones you could get them from. maybe vf is doing the same?


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Finished up the WMI on my car... few pics here..


----------



## sgt snuffles (Aug 16, 2007)

so anyone on here actually running a 2.5pulley on a V1/2? is the belt slip bad? trying to find if i want the 2.75 or 2.5 pulley


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (sgt snuffles)*

ive "heard" it slips bad. never used one though, so take it however you want. worst case is you try it, it doesnt give you the results you wanted, and swap back. then sell it.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

I want to sell my V9! I want to upgrade to a V1/V2


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

The only upgrade is a turbo. A V1 would be cool but not worth the $$$ IMO.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (sgt snuffles)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sgt snuffles* »_so anyone on here actually running a 2.5pulley on a V1/2? is the belt slip bad? trying to find if i want the 2.75 or 2.5 pulley

I did. I ran the C2, It sliced belts. It slipped, It reduced boost to less than what I got from my 2.75. I went cogged because of the slipping issues. I havent slipped since. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

I got my new C2 chip the other day and popped it in. I'm having a couple of problems, one of which I think I know the cause of.
problem 1) I have very rough deceleration. WOT is great and I seem to be making a good amount of boost (although I have no gauge installed yet, so I don't know for sure) but let down off the throttle is VERY rough. I looked at my inlet pipe and it is not clamped down to the charger well enough, so I am pretty sure I am leaking air there. ordinarily I wouldn't think this would be a problem, but as the MAF is pre-charger I'm thinking this is responsible for the problem. I will try and get in there to fix that and see how it goes soon, but if anyone has any other theories, I'm all ears.
problem 2) the C2 chip seems to be making my secondary air pump blow air constantly. any time the key is in the 'on' position whether the motor is running or not, the secondary air pump is blowing. i am fairly certain the chip is responsible for this as it wasn't doing it with my previous chip even after the charger was installed.
a general question: my C2 chip came with an extra small circuit board that my previous C2 chip did not have. is this board essential? the chip is currently installed in the ECU with this extra board and I have tried it without it and the engine wont start up so im thinking that it is essential, I just wanted to know.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_
a general question: my C2 chip came with an extra small circuit board that my previous C2 chip did not have. is this board essential? the chip is currently installed in the ECU with this extra board and I have tried it without it and the engine wont start up so im thinking that it is essential, I just wanted to know.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Thats just their encryption board http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*

_Modified by SUPERCHARGED-JETTA at 8:17 PM 12-15-2008_


----------



## Gaets (Feb 8, 2005)

*Re: (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_problem 1) I have very rough deceleration. WOT is great and I seem to be making a good amount of boost (although I have no gauge installed yet, so I don't know for sure) but let down off the throttle is VERY rough. I looked at my inlet pipe and it is not clamped down to the charger well enough, so I am pretty sure I am leaking air there. ordinarily I wouldn't think this would be a problem, but as the MAF is pre-charger I'm thinking this is responsible for the problem. I will try and get in there to fix that and see how it goes soon, but if anyone has any other theories, I'm all ears.

how close is your maf to the charger?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (Gaets)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Gaets* »_
how close is your maf to the charger?


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

Mine is about the same as Beastie's


----------



## Gaets (Feb 8, 2005)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

yeah, mine is about that far away as well. Before i moved it i was having the same problems on deceleration.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (Gaets)*

I talked to Jeff yesterday about my problems, which if you read through CorradoMagic's archived issues thread you will notice are exactly the same, minus the broken cam positioning sensor, and he told me what to do.
basically, the EGR and SAI systems are written out of the C2 chip. So, I need to delete both of those valve/systems which I will do tomorrow. I also then need to snip the #10 wire from the ECU housing as this is the wire that checks for those systems. He said that 99% of idle problems on obd1 vr6s are cause by faulty EGR.
I will post my results tomorrow after i perform these tasks.


----------



## sgt snuffles (Aug 16, 2007)

wait, you got ahold of jeff? i need to get ahold of anyone from c2! im borrowing my bud's chip and im sure he needs it ASAP damnit! haha


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (sgt snuffles)*

yeah it took some doing, but I finally did.
call the shop at like 11am, that seems to be when Chris is wanting to answer phones...


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

*So, I'm still having really bad partial throttle hiccups.* I have deleted the EGR and SAI per Jeff's directions. I extended my MAF away from the charger a bit more and clamped down my inlet pipe nice and tight.
the car is AWESOME at WOT. Great power and it comes on very smooth and strong. I don't feel any leaning out and it feels like I am making boost. It is very different from my first test drive. It's just drive-ability that is suffering right now. Anytime I am at partial throttle, like cruising, etc. the car hiccups and bucks terribly.
anyone else having/had this issue? Any suggestions how to get rid of it? 
please help!


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

Really weird I don't have those problems and we both have the bastard EA/BM ecu with the same tunes








Edit: you might want to check how your belt is wraped, I think you need to be on the other side of your alt pulley. It won't fix your stuttering problem but no sense in putting extra load on your charging sytem, also it will help get a little more wrap on the s/c pulley.


_Modified by beachball6 at 10:50 AM 12-22-2008_


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_Really weird I don't have those problems and we both have the bastard EA/BM ecu with the same tunes








Edit: you might want to check how your belt is wraped, I think you need to be on the other side of your alt pulley. It won't fix your stuttering problem but no sense in putting extra load on your charging sytem, also it will help get a little more wrap on the s/c pulley.

_Modified by beachball6 at 10:50 AM 12-22-2008_

I was actually thinking the same thing about the belt. I will correct that.
do you have siemens injectors, or bosch? I have the bosch 36# which is what i was originally told to use. jeff is telling me that the software is written for siemens, but I cant imagine that being the problem. wouldnt i notice an injector problem at WOT before I would notice it anywhere else? like i said, WOT is beautiful.


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

No clue as to which injectors I'm running. I saw 36# and jumped on them I'm willing to bet they are siemens. I've yet to run with a MAF plugged in though so I may have the same problems as you but not know it. I should find out later today as the MKIII is finally back together from my heater core R/R. 
I'll let you know via PM if I have problems similar to yours.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (beachball6)*

so I have been told that the current tune was written with a 3 bar FPR as well. I have a stock 4 bar FPR, standard on 95 GTi. I am going to try a 3 bar FPR and see if that helps.
I have also found that I was give V40 of the C2 chip, when the current version is V42. dont know what that's all about, but I'm asking Chris about it.
beachball: what FPR are you running?
If anyone else would chime in on this, I would love to hear your opinions.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

thats correct. the newest tune was designed off of the 3bar fpr. should help your car run better. 
i got their newest software as well, and the car didnt run well at all. lean under boost, all over the place during cruising speeds. put in a 4bar to help fuel it under boost, ran dead on 12.X's a/f ratios. but during cruising, all over again. and on startup, it would need to be cranked 3times or so bc of the fuel dumping in.
decided f it, not going to wash my cylinders out with new software that somehow requires a 4bar to run right, sort of. swapped my old stuff back in, tuned it a bit with a super afc, and its pulling consistent 12.5's at the track


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

I'm going to swap in a 3 bar FPR tonight and see if that helps. is the 4 bar that is currently installed just dumping too much fuel in, thereby causing it to buck because it cant efficiently burn all that fuel? seems like that may be the case to me. I had an AMS chip installed in the car before I went charged, it was written for euro TB and schrick manifold, neither of which I had. I had similar problems with that chip just MUCH less at partial throttle. seems like perhaps its running too rich and cant deal with the extra fuel.
we'll see how this 3 bar works. if not, im going to get an A'Pexi piggy back and tweak it myself.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

my idle was OK with the 3bar, and lean uptop/in boost. 4bar drowned the motor out, causing my starting issues imo. fueled well in boost though.
go with the 3bar, see what happens. you want to get the car running right(no bucking issues) BEFORE you put a piggy back system into it. 
do you have a wideband? if not, get one. huge help esp since you can see exactly what your fuel looks like.


----------



## sgt snuffles (Aug 16, 2007)

so what are some kills we got with the charged vr's?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (sgt snuffles)*

on the track tons. on the street, a few. i just cant get into really pushing it on the street. totally unsafe and unnecessary


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_on the track tons. on the street, a few. i just cant get into really pushing it on the street. totally unsafe and unnecessary

x2. It's really hard to use a 12 sec. car on the street. It's one of the downsides to building a fast street car. First, b/c within a few seconds you are breaking the law. Secondly, b/c it's hard to find cars that can keep up








Save it for the 1/4 or road course fellas


----------



## sgt snuffles (Aug 16, 2007)

no im totally all for the track! i just do road courses never got into the 1/4 mile i just got some friends runnin gthere mouths with there 1.8ts... of course all the same mods, i just dont wanna race 1 i dont have money for the ticket and possibly jail time, but it pisses me off cuz i just wanna rock there ****!


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (sgt snuffles)*

I asked c2 about this and was told stock FPR for the EA/BM ecu.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_I asked c2 about this and was told stock FPR for the EA/BM ecu.

yeah, I asked them about it too and they didnt know that stock for me was a 4 bar FPR, so...
Jeff said that the software was written for a 3 bar, so I'm going to try that. I have a 3 bar in hand and am going to swap it out tomorrow.
will post results.


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

hmm, yea LMK what your findings are, because with my maf plugged in I get ~18mpg and thats not so hot.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (beachball6)*

but you're not having any of the problems with partial throttle that I am having, correct?
I really hope that the 3 bar fixes it. Tomorrow's the day to install!
happy holidays everyone!


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

on my mkiv I run the 36# software with a 3bar. I do not have any of the issues you are talking about. Also have the diverter valves looped back to the intake. after MAF!


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (littlenr)*

Swapped in the 3 bar FPR yesterday...
AND MY CAR DRIVES PERFECTLY NOW!
merry-effing-christmas to me!
Thanks for everyone's help! I now am the proud owner of a perfectly boosted VR! I have a boost gauge waiting to go in and will take it to the Dyno when I can. more to come!


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

Some vids from the spring.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oC0xHYAcCng
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkmxOJmfXWg



_Modified by DeckManDubs at 11:30 AM 12-26-2008_


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

thats a rather quiet car...i like that http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

Glad to hear the 3 bar worked http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

Nice little vids, sounds great.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_Nice little vids, sounds great.










http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

Maybe one of these days I will put the s/c back on. Sometimes I miss this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VaowK5_faaU
At least the slicks are still being used on a supercharged car.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (vw1320)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vw1320* »_Maybe one of these days I will put the s/c back on. Sometimes I miss this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VaowK5_faaU
At least the slicks are still being used on a supercharged car. 









http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sgt snuffles (Aug 16, 2007)

anyone running A CAI out of the engine bay, what do you guys do to cover/protect your intake when washing your car or its raining? pretty sure my cars sucking in water when i wash it


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (sgt snuffles)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sgt snuffles* »_anyone running A CAI out of the engine bay, what do you guys do to cover/protect your intake when washing your car or its raining? pretty sure my cars sucking in water when i wash it

K&N dry charger here. You can also try a plastic container with holes drilled in it to keep some of the water out. This will solve 90% of the water problems, but for heavy rain I recommend not driving or route your intake up under your front bumper by cutting the rebar out.


_Modified by DeckManDubs at 8:39 PM 1-1-2009_


----------



## eliosbluejetta (May 1, 2008)

*Re: supercharger kits (SUPERCHARGED-JETTA)*

i have a c2 charger with stage 2 software do you know if the maf sensor should be installed before or after the charger?







bump


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

I use a Pre-screen filter & it does great. Filter is hardly even dirty after 1 yr. The nylon matariel also resists water/splashes, etc. 
MAF is always pre charger on ALL C2 FI systems


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: supercharger kits (eliosbluejetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *eliosbluejetta* »_i have a c2 charger with stage 2 software do you know if the maf sensor should be installed before or after the charger?







bump

did you not read this thread at all? this topic is covered a few times in here. 
here's a picture I previously posted of my intake setup that has been working very well:








some people say that you need to put the MAF even farther away from the charger than I have mine, but I have not found that to be the case for me, at least not yet.
read through this entire thread, there is a lot of useful information in here that will help you when issues arise.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: supercharger kits (EL DRIFTO)*

just put together a mk2 supercharged jetta. vortech v1(louder than mine), 12psi pulley, obd1 with 36# inj and software. car needs to be looked over a bit, and some things taken care of that i refused to do in 30* weather. should make around 260whp and run in the mid to low 13's if the driver is capable.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: supercharger kits (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_just put together a mk2 supercharged jetta. vortech v1(louder than mine), 12psi pulley, obd1 with 36# inj and software. car needs to be looked over a bit, and some things taken care of that i refused to do in 30* weather. should make around 260whp and run in the mid to low 13's if the driver is capable.

Any cams in there?


----------



## eliosbluejetta (May 1, 2008)

*Re: supercharger kits (DeckManDubs)*

256 dsr cams


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: supercharger kits (eliosbluejetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *eliosbluejetta* »_256 dsr cams

Not a bad choice. If hungry for more power you can swap in a set of 262's


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: supercharger kits (DeckManDubs)*

elios - you have any clue what car im talking about?

deckman - owner stated theres a set of schrick 268's in the car, but i am unsure of it.


----------



## eliosbluejetta (May 1, 2008)

*Re: supercharger kits (-THROTTLE-)*

i was told dsr 256 were a nice mild cam for chargers without having idle jump i have them on mine and they are great waiting to put in my charger kit this week and try to get some dyno time should be nice


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: supercharger kits (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_
deckman - owner stated theres a set of schrick 268's in the car, but i am unsure of it.

If he is running 268's then it should push it into 300whp range @ 12psi. The fueling will have to be dialed back if its running a C2 tune. The C2 tunes work well, but they have too much fuel for supercharged applications straight out of the box. Some adjustments should get it up there in power.

_Quote, originally posted by *eliosbluejetta* »_i was told dsr 256 were a nice mild cam for chargers without having idle jump i have them on mine and they are great waiting to put in my charger kit this week and try to get some dyno time should be nice









262's and 268's do not really have any idle issues that most complain about. If the tune is good then you wont have that issue. Off the shelf tunes are really basic, thats where getting to a dyno and doing some tuning helps out a lot. 


_Modified by DeckManDubs at 6:23 PM 1-4-2009_


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: supercharger kits (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_
If he is running 268's then it should push it into 300whp range @ 12psi. The fueling will have to be dialed back if its running a C2 tune. The C2 tunes work well, but they have too much fuel for supercharged applications straight out of the box. Some adjustments should get it up there in power.

agreed. its almost the same setup as me. i run the schrick 268's with 12psi, and had to tune the fuel out at the top end once the inline pump was installed.


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: supercharger kits (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_
agreed. its almost the same setup as me. i run the schrick 268's with 12psi, and had to tune the fuel out at the top end once the inline pump was installed.

Noah and I found with the majority of C2 software and cam'd s/c setups that you've gotta remove a lot of fuel in the midrange and add more up top. Some adjustments last month on the dyno yielded 33 whp.
Pretty impressive


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: supercharger kits (DeckManDubs)*

I just put 262's in mine this past week and I have no idle issues. Along with the nice guide replacements and such, my engine is actually quieter now with the slight change in tone when under throttle. One of the nicest upgrades I've done so far. I'm still running GIAC, though, I plan to swap over to C2 once I rebuild the cash for it to take advantage of the WMI and cams.


----------



## Flyweight (Jan 15, 2007)

*Re: supercharger kits (MeCarTay)*

How do you adjust fuel on a C2 chip? Fuel pressure regulator? 
At what rpm did you see the 33 whp gain? 
Thanks for this great thread with tons of good tested information.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: supercharger kits (Flyweight)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Flyweight* »_How do you adjust fuel on a C2 chip? Fuel pressure regulator? 
At what rpm did you see the 33 whp gain? 
Thanks for this great thread with tons of good tested information. 

x2
I'm wondering the same thing. are you guys using a piggy back to adjust fueling? something more simple than that?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: supercharger kits (MeCarTay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MeCarTay* »_
Noah and I found with the majority of C2 software and cam'd s/c setups that you've gotta remove a lot of fuel in the midrange and add more up top. Some adjustments last month on the dyno yielded 33 whp.
Pretty impressive









i ran lean in the midrange, and rich uptop. i went from consistent 12.8 - 12.9's to a 12.58 just by tuning the fuel out at the top end. the season ended for me before i could adjust fuel in the midrange to get it where i wanted.
ill be running the same setup as last year, with just some tuning at the track. might pay the 115/hr on the dyno and just get it dialed in a bit. once june comes though, ill be going with haltech standalone, and shooting for high 11's.
i am using a apexi super afc on my car. works great. search my name and youll find the write up i did with info on wiring and such. for the $75 i paid for it, its better than anything out there http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: supercharger kits (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_
i am using a apexi super afc on my car. works great. search my name and youll find the write up i did with info on wiring and such. for the $75 i paid for it, its better than anything out there http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

yeah, that's the unit I was going to use as well, if I couldn't figure out my idle issues. im running stock internals though and always will, so i dont think there will ever be a need for me to use a piggy back.


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: supercharger kits (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Flyweight* »_How do you adjust fuel on a C2 chip? Fuel pressure regulator? 
At what rpm did you see the 33 whp gain? 
Thanks for this great thread with tons of good tested information. 



Adjusting fuel pressure will either lean out or richen the mixture across the whole spectrum, so it only helps if you're running rich or lean everywhere. We've been experimenting with some software packages from moates.net which offer emulation capabilities. Basically giving you the ability to monitor and make adjustments in realtime. Peak rpm which if I remember correctly was 7200.
Trying out a new unit this week, so will let you guys know what we find.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: supercharger kits (MeCarTay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MeCarTay* »_

Adjusting fuel pressure will either lean out or richen the mixture across the whole spectrum


exactly. when i was on the dyno, i made 286whp, but if you look at the sheet, i was lean from 5k to redline, and power never went up.
i installed an inline pump, allowing the fuel to get to the rail with ease, and helping fuel the motor how i needed. from then on, i ran rich at the top end all the time. 
the apexi unit is great for what it is/does. im looking to pull a 12.2 this year on the c2 chip + apexi afc. we shall see. once i do that, haltech is next.


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: supercharger kits (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_
exactly. when i was on the dyno, i made 286whp, but if you look at the sheet, i was lean from 5k to redline, and power never went up.
i installed an inline pump, allowing the fuel to get to the rail with ease, and helping fuel the motor how i needed. from then on, i ran rich at the top end all the time. 
the apexi unit is great for what it is/does. im looking to pull a 12.2 this year on the c2 chip + apexi afc. we shall see. once i do that, haltech is next.

Were you able to get the a/f where you wanted it with the afc?


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: supercharger kits (-THROTTLE-)*

Now from some of the things I've read, WMI can help with leaning out up top. Currently I just have the VF Stage 2 kit, no extra fueling items other then the parts that came in the kit. 
As I haven't had a chance to dyno it or hook it up to a computer, I'm not sure if I'm leaning out. 
Does the WMI actually help with the lean issue?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: supercharger kits (MeCarTay)*

my wideband showed 10 a/f's over 5k on the track. only tuning out from 5k on, i ran my best time to date. i was in the 12.5 a/f range from there on out. i have yet to tune the rest of the rpm range, but thats the plan for this season.
so to answer your question, yes, i did.
WMI does make the car run rich when using it. it would help, BUT i wouldnt rely on WMI over a good tune http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: supercharger kits (-THROTTLE-)*

Cool, thanks for the info. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## eliosbluejetta (May 1, 2008)

*Re: supercharger kits (dasGolf01)*

hey everyone about to tap my oil pan what is ideal location for this pics would be great if you have them


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: supercharger kits (eliosbluejetta)*

some do it upfront by the front motor mount area, some do it on the side by the pulleys. either way, mount it as high as possible on the pan.


----------



## Flyweight (Jan 15, 2007)

VF has revised tap instructions that have you drill a hole in the block instead of the oil pan. I guess people were running the pan with too much oil and the return line from the charger to the oil pan was not siphoning oil like it should. 
I tapped the block. It was not for the faint of heart but it gained me two or so inches of oil drainage. 
Do not tap the block without these instructions as they have you place the tap in a very specific location. It would be pretty bad if you decided to tap the block in a webbing portion of the block!


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: supercharger kits (eliosbluejetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *eliosbluejetta* »_hey everyone about to tap my oil pan what is ideal location for this pics would be great if you have them

















That image is per VF's installation manuel.


----------



## eliosbluejetta (May 1, 2008)

hey everyone just wondering if anyone has the c2 stage 2 install guide just wanted to have a reference while installing my charger also 256 cams am i going to need a inline fuel pump or a fuel pressure regulator? while running 30# injectors and software or do you think i should be fine thanks for the help


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (eliosbluejetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *eliosbluejetta* »_hey everyone just wondering if anyone has the c2 stage 2 install guide just wanted to have a reference while installing my charger also 256 cams am i going to need a inline fuel pump or a fuel pressure regulator? while running 30# injectors and software or do you think i should be fine thanks for the help

I ran the 30# w/ the 256's. Car ran it's a55 off up top








Use whatever fpr C2 recommends with that chip. I believe it's 3bar. I would do an inline anywhere north of like ~270whp. Get a wideband so you know exactly what's going on.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (Flyweight)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Flyweight* »_VF has revised tap instructions that have you drill a hole in the block instead of the oil pan. I guess people were running the pan with too much oil and the return line from the charger to the oil pan was not siphoning oil like it should. 
I tapped the block. It was not for the faint of heart but it gained me two or so inches of oil drainage. 
Do not tap the block without these instructions as they have you place the tap in a very specific location. It would be pretty bad if you decided to tap the block in a webbing portion of the block!

Smart move on tapping the block. You wan't to protect that $2k charger as much as possible. I know I already told you this but take it easy on that belt tension and you should be golden.








Is the kit on yet? I miss the SC under the hood sometimes. It was so much prettier







You can't even see the turbo. The built in traction control of linear boost was nice as well. Good luck with it man.


----------



## GLgod (Aug 23, 2006)

*Re: (Flyweight)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Flyweight* »_VF has revised tap instructions that have you drill a hole in the block instead of the oil pan. I guess people were running the pan with too much oil and the return line from the charger to the oil pan was not siphoning oil like it should. 
I tapped the block. It was not for the faint of heart but it gained me two or so inches of oil drainage. 
Do not tap the block without these instructions as they have you place the tap in a very specific location. It would be pretty bad if you decided to tap the block in a webbing portion of the block!

Tapping the block







Please tell me were talking about a MK3 installation here??? I have stage 1 coming for a 24V and I definitely do NOT want to put a drill to my block!!!


----------



## Flyweight (Jan 15, 2007)

My guess is that VF suggests for you to drill your block as well. The 24v pan is very similar to the 12v pan and so I am sure the concerns about oil siphoning are the same between the motors.


----------



## GLgod (Aug 23, 2006)

*Re: (Flyweight)*

Damn... oh well, its not like im gonna let that keep me from throwing that s/c on! Looks like im just gonna have to suck it up


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_
I ran the 30# w/ the 256's. Car ran it's a55 off up top








Use whatever fpr C2 recommends with that chip. I believe it's 3bar. I would do an inline anywhere north of like ~270whp. Get a wideband so you know exactly what's going on.

steves right, get an inline. i run a 190lph unit, and it was more than i needed for fuel. it took care of my lean problem over 5k, and it hasnt given me trouble since.
tapping the block isnt a bad idea since its the best return path for the charger. ill be doing it this year when i start working on the car again.


----------



## Nailbunny86 (Oct 18, 2005)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

any body want to help out me on this thread??
its super charger related or should i just post it here??
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4159246


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Nailbunny86)*

i think i covered that topic just a few pages back.
maybe not.
either way, it helps raise octane and cools things, BUT it also makes the car run very rich. i went from 12 a/f's to 10's, and even pegged the gauge at 10.0 which is the lowest it will read. so i tried a smaller nozzle, and it did slightly better.
a good tune plus the kit isnt bad though...otherwise, you just tend to run rich.


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Well hope everyone had a good new years, I am currently redoing my set up for this year so hope to hit mid 11's or lower this season. I had to purchase a new air to water intercooler as the one I had started leaking water (NOT GOOD). I am also going to run a C2 dizzy chip now and look for another lb or 2 of boost







Good Luck to all with there projects!!!


----------



## vdubxcrew (Jul 25, 2004)

*Re: (SUPERCHARGED-JETTA)*

I can't believe out of 13 pages, there isn't any more cars with the ROTREX kits. I'd really like to see more owners of these kits or other less popular kits post up info and times/dyno's.


----------



## Flyweight (Jan 15, 2007)

The biggest problem with the Rotrex kit is that it is made/sold by Storm Developments in the UK. 
http://www.stormdevelopments.c....html
Four problems: 
1. They did not answer any of my emails. 
2. If you actually get them to talk to you and you purchase the kit you are more than likely SOL if something goes wrong. 
3. Their kit is not as cheap as the classifieds section. 
4. Their set up does not appear to be cogged. If you are limited to the V1, V2, V9s non-cogged 11-12psi of boost I doubt it will make more than a couple of hp more than the V based charger kits. Not worth the hassle/expense in my book. 
Now if I had the skills to fabricate my own cogged Rotrex...


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (Flyweight)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Flyweight* »_The biggest problem with the Rotrex kit is that it is made/sold by Storm Developments in the UK. 
http://www.stormdevelopments.c....html
Four problems: 
1. They did not answer any of my emails. 
2. If you actually get them to talk to you and you purchase the kit you are more than likely SOL if something goes wrong.
3. Their kit is not as cheap as the classifieds section. 
4. Their set up does not appear to be cogged. If you are limited to the V1, V2, V9s non-cogged 11-12psi of boost I doubt it will make more than a couple of hp more than the V based charger kits. Not worth the hassle/expense in my book. 
Now if I had the skills to fabricate my own cogged Rotrex...


Very well put.
The reason Rotrex's will never be popular in the states is the lack of support/ease of getting parts...If you had to send your unit back to them for any work your looking at least a couple months without paying some serious money for expedited shipping. On top of that the units need the special oil in order to work, not good if you decided to go for a road trip and spring a small leak. Vortech and Procharger are made here in the states and there are tons of parts for the units. 
Cogging a Rotrex will not yield a lot more power, due to the design of the units they do no have the drag that a gear driven setup of a Vortech or Progcharger does (thus needing cogged to overcome internal resistance from the mass of the charger), Running a large Rotrex on the other hand would yield a greater gain, which can also be attained using USA manufactured components for ease of getting parts.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

How well are the self contained Prochargers? I was looking at a D-1sc. I was really leaning towards a D-1, but came across a deal on the D-1sc. Any ideas? Obviously brackets would have to be custom, but that is not an issue.


----------



## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_
The reason Rotrex's will never be popular in the states is the lack of support/ease of getting parts..

maybe thats going to change soon


----------



## hatemenow (May 16, 2007)

*Re: (TBT-Syncro)*

http://www.activeautowerke.com
^^^ based in FL

http://www.ccr-racing.com/shop/cms-1.html
^^^ found these guys searching the web..seems they sell brackets
and SC seperate
These guys maybe able to help with getting Rotrex chargers http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by hatemenow at 4:32 PM 1-15-2009_


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_How well are the self contained Prochargers? I was looking at a D-1sc. I was really leaning towards a D-1, but came across a deal on the D-1sc. Any ideas? Obviously brackets would have to be custom, but that is not an issue.

D1-sc's are very nice units from what I hear. Self contained can be an advantage.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (hatemenow)*

nvmd


_Modified by DeckManDubs at 11:00 PM 1-15-2009_


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

*Re: (GLgod)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GLgod* »_Damn... oh well, its not like im gonna let that keep me from throwing that s/c on! Looks like im just gonna have to suck it up









Got to ask these questions... 
1. If you tap the block and then decide you are taking the S/C off what do you do? If you are keeping your car I guess you can plug it some how, and welding it up IS out of the question.
2. In reference to question one, if you did remove the S/C to sell it separately what do you tell someone if they are buying your car?
I can see it now while you are trying to sell your car and you are telling your potential buyer about the car (IF you tell them), "...Oh and by the way there's a nice hole in the block just in case you decide to S/C the car yourself later..." ...or maybe nothing at all? (I'll just say buyer beware and hope that it doesn't blow out and some one is really pissed of later because they discovered a hole in there block...)
3.How would or could the S/C siphon oil from pan unless you tapped way too low?
Oil drains out, obviously, unless it gets blocked (and then it really doesn't matter WHERE you tapped), and I don't think there is that much pressure in the crank case to force oil back up the line. No one, including VF has said definitively how this happens.
When the engine is running there is positive pressure into the charger bring oil into charger via VF's system anyway. I think that maybe there can be or is too much air pressure and it's that too much pressure that is actually blowing the seals out. Maybe there needs to be a restriction valve on the air inlet line to prevent over pressurization of the charger.
Any answers? We've had plenty of conjecture.... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (groupracer)*

In answer to your first question, it comes with a block plug if you ever decide to take the S/C off.
Not sure on the rest of the answers... but I would tell the person it was previously S/C'd and the block is plugged now. No reason to lie, but if I ever do sell this beast it will likely still have the S/C on it.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

I have my SC draining to the front of the pan, up pretty high about 1" from lip. I have yet to have any issues w/ charger as far as that goes. Been maybe 1 yr/5K or so


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

55,000 miles with the pan tapped. Have not had any problems yet.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

So what does everyone think of this? My car is a mk 4. I'll be swapping a mkV r32 pan to the car with matching oil pump. This will bring the bottom of the pan level with the sub frame. Then I'll be changing out my V-9 set up for a Procharger D-1sc (self contained). Thus no oil pan tapping need.


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

are you making the brackets?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_So what does everyone think of this? My car is a mk 4. I'll be swapping a mkV r32 pan to the car with matching oil pump. This will bring the bottom of the pan level with the sub frame. Then I'll be changing out my V-9 set up for a Procharger D-1sc (self contained). Thus no oil pan tapping need.

That should keep any broken pans from happening. The D1sc should work nice with your compression ratio.


----------



## VRClownCar (Apr 8, 2001)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

does anyone have more info on this . . 








a little blurb from the website ~ "In the dual-speed supercharger, an Antonov Mechanical Module two-speed drives a Rotrex centrifugal pump supercharger faster at low engine speeds, thereby delivering a higher boost ratio to provide additional low speed engine torque.
As engine speed rises, the unit—essentially a tiny automatic gearbox—automatically shifts up to enable the supercharger to continue to operate effectively at higher engine speeds. The device controls the shift with the use of centrifugal force and axial thrust generated by helical gears under load. Therefore, it can work as autonomous self-adapting modules without the need for hydraulic actuation or electronic control."
and more info. here http://www.antonov-clubsite.nl....html
what I'm wondering is what are the prices like, when does the thing "shift" and if you buy one does it come with the charger, or is it something you have to put together yourself. from the looks of it, it looks to be about the size of the AC compressor







and it would probably be pretty easy to hide one from the wonderful california smog guys


----------



## Flyweight (Jan 15, 2007)

If I remember correctly the above Rotrex transmission was around $5000. This thing is for the day dreamers. Also, the dyno graphs for the unit show two hp spikes as the unit has the motor reach maximum boost twice during the rpm range. 
Now if only they could make a continuously variable transmission for the Rotrex so that peak boost was achieved throughout the rpm range...
Great idea. Entirely too expensive to be mass marketed.


----------



## VRClownCar (Apr 8, 2001)

*Re: (Flyweight)*

^^^^^ I was expecting that kind of info







two hp peaks would be interesting hahaha


----------



## Norwegian-VR6 (Feb 6, 2002)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

Back in 2005 - 2006.
Completely stock 1996 OBD2 VR6.
Z-Engineering ZR2 a chip from them and a 4 bar fpr. Thats it.
Rest off the car was stock. 
9PSI, and it ran perfect. Used it for one year, summer time and pretty extreme winters with no issues http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Cant get it more bolt on than this http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

















_Modified by Norwegian-VR6 at 6:47 PM 1-17-2009_

_Modified by Norwegian-VR6 at 6:47 PM 1-17-2009_


_Modified by Norwegian-VR6 at 6:48 PM 1-17-2009_


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

DMD-pm'd
i feel very hot/cold about my v9 right now.
i either love it, or it's ruining my life.
who's rebuilt a v9?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (dr. b)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dr. b* »_DMD-pm'd
i feel very hot/cold about my v9 right now.
i either love it, or it's ruining my life.
who's rebuilt a v9?



















































Got your IM and replied back http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

engine shots is where its at...


----------



## MR 2.GO (Apr 10, 2007)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Second time my charger is leaking oil just got it back around dec and its at it again... any advice? Am not over tightening the belt and I'm not sending it back 2 vf.. Any links 2 rebuild 1? Oil pan is tapped on the highside... could it be getting blocked?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (MR 2.GO)*

what charger, v1,2,9? 9's seem to leak a lot. 
contact todd at superchargerrebuilds.com


----------



## MR 2.GO (Apr 10, 2007)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Its a v9


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (MR 2.GO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MR 2.GO* »_Second time my charger is leaking oil just got it back around dec and its at it again... any advice? Am not over tightening the belt and I'm not sending it back 2 vf.. Any links 2 rebuild 1? Oil pan is tapped on the highside... could it be getting blocked?

Your block should be tapped is all I can tell you.
I don't know how some of you guys stick w/ them (SC's). Between the belt slip, bearings going from overtightening, seals going, VF/Vortech taking 2 months for repairs, the price of a rebuild, the price of a new charger, etc. To each his own but that's alot to put up with for what a charger gives you


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (MR 2.GO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MR 2.GO* »_Second time my charger is leaking oil just got it back around dec and its at it again... any advice? Am not over tightening the belt and I'm not sending it back 2 vf.. Any links 2 rebuild 1? Oil pan is tapped on the highside... could it be getting blocked?

1.How is your return line routed pics would be good
2.What oil pressure are you seeing
Typical place for the charger to leak is on the one way filter for the pressure oil evacuation lines. I had to have a new one made as it failed on my charger. The other place would be the outlet for the oil return some times you need to get some thread tape on there but not on the beginning part of the threads as you could get a piece of that into your oil system and that would not be good.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_
Your block should be tapped is all I can tell you.
I don't know how some of you guys stick w/ them (SC's). Between the belt slip, bearings going from overtightening, seals going, VF/Vortech taking 2 months for repairs, the price of a rebuild, the price of a new charger, etc. To each his own but that's alot to put up with for what a charger gives you









im very disappointed steve! all this coming from a man who is #4 on the list as the fastest supercharged vr6......sir, you and i need to have a sit down


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_
im very disappointed steve! all this coming from a man who is #4 on the list as the fastest supercharged vr6......sir, you and i need to have a sit down

















For the record, I'm not bashing and my comments were more V9 related. Some have had no issues but ALOT have. 
Mike, what's your take on show and go? I'm leaning toward running all out Quick 8. I'll get killed but who cares. I wan't to try and run a new best.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (slc92)*

pm'd you sir http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## punk rock kiel (Aug 27, 2003)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

its easy to tap a line into the block. 
and you use an AN fitting like you would normally and tap the block out to 1/2npt and just get a 1/2npt to 8an fitting. then you can get an 8an cap if you take the charger off. 
the reason turbo can run an oil return line into the pan is cause the seals in a turbo can take more pressure. charger just need an oil bath, not pressure to keep the thing alive. thats why it need a free flowing return line. a charger works just like a tranny for oil cooling pretty much. it slings it around and drips back in. 
personally cause everyone loves a slammed car, take the extra time to tap into the block cause if you smash an oil pan, i bet you dont have one with a welded in fitting sitting around.


----------



## MR 2.GO (Apr 10, 2007)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_
1.How is your return line routed pics would be good
2.What oil pressure are you seeing
Typical place for the charger to leak is on the one way filter for the pressure oil evacuation lines. I had to have a new one made as it failed on my charger. The other place would be the outlet for the oil return some times you need to get some thread tape on there but not on the beginning part of the threads as you could get a piece of that into your oil system and that would not be good.


its leaking from the intake to the supercharger wereteh maf is.i went to superchargerrebuild.com they seem to have a rebuild kit for sale cheaper then VF... wat do u guys think, seals?
http://www.superchargerrebuild.com/?page_id=6


_Modified by MR 2.GO at 1:38 PM 2-1-2009_


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (MR 2.GO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MR 2.GO* »_
its leaking from the intake to the supercharger wereteh maf is.i went to superchargerrebuild.com they seem to have a rebuild kit for sale cheaper then VF... wat do u guys think, seals?

What is the condition of your PCV? If your PCV checks out then yes get a replacement seal kit from superchargerrebuilds.com


----------



## 631 Corrado (Jan 14, 2003)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

superchargerrebuild.com http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## R32R1 (Jul 1, 2008)

*Re: (631 Corrado)*

Wow just found this thread......
well anyway mk4 R32 w/ VF stage 2 *straight-cut gear spur*


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

So Saturday while coming from a stop, hit a few bumps and it feathered my foot on the throttle, semi-revving out first gear and hear a very loud pop like a backfire.
Car died, EPC, MIL and CEL came on. Started back up, sounded like a boost leak, drove like doodoo back to my place, got underneath and the boost pipe going across the radiator had come undone so I reattached that. Boost levels are back to normal, but the charger/blower sounds a little different now.. just a little more whiny than before. This system is 6-8 months old, Stage 2. Any ideas if something may have gotten damaged inside the blower? 
Anyone know if these suckers are warrantied at all? Trying to dig up my VF paperwork right now. Car seems responsive again, but the change in the blower tone worries me a little. Thanks for any help!


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

check to see if your diverter valve blew off or a hose off. I would check all joints. Sounds like you still have a boost leak.


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_So Saturday while coming from a stop, hit a few bumps and it feathered my foot on the throttle, semi-revving out first gear and hear a very loud pop like a backfire.
Car died, EPC, MIL and CEL came on. Started back up, sounded like a boost leak, drove like doodoo back to my place, got underneath and the boost pipe going across the radiator had come undone so I reattached that. Boost levels are back to normal, but the charger/blower sounds a little different now.. just a little more whiny than before. This system is 6-8 months old, Stage 2. Any ideas if something may have gotten damaged inside the blower? 
Anyone know if these suckers are warrantied at all? Trying to dig up my VF paperwork right now. Car seems responsive again, but the change in the blower tone worries me a little. Thanks for any help!









Standard warranty is a year unless you purchased their extended which is three.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_So Saturday while coming from a stop, hit a few bumps and it feathered my foot on the throttle, semi-revving out first gear and hear a very loud pop like a backfire.
Car died, EPC, MIL and CEL came on. Started back up, sounded like a boost leak, drove like doodoo back to my place, got underneath and the boost pipe going across the radiator had come undone so I reattached that. Boost levels are back to normal, but the charger/blower sounds a little different now.. just a little more whiny than before. This system is 6-8 months old, Stage 2. Any ideas if something may have gotten damaged inside the blower? 
Anyone know if these suckers are warrantied at all? Trying to dig up my VF paperwork right now. Car seems responsive again, but the change in the blower tone worries me a little. Thanks for any help!









Can you get a sound clip of the charger?


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

I shall pull the bumper and check the dv and what not. Looked okay with a flashlight spot check, but to make sure I will.
And I'll get a vid/soundclip of the charger as well. Thanks folks. Should have it all up in a day or two, evenings permitting. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
y'all rock


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

I wonder if the plastic diverter valve cracked. Hmm interesting for sure.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (littlenr)*

I have a stage 2 setup so it's not the plastic DV. And while listening to it running, the whine sounds like it's coming from the charger, but I'll find out after work tonight. I also shot an email to VF to see about getting that process rolling in case I have to go that route.
thanks again folks


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Is it possible to get more than 15psi out of a V-1 on a Vr6? Vortech's site says its good for 26psi and 1200cfm.


----------



## Nailbunny86 (Oct 18, 2005)

So here is what im planning for my set up and i want to know what you guys think, im aiming for 350+ HP
1998 gti vr6 OBD2
100% re built block -done
100% rebuilt head,ported and polished-done
HD valve springs-done
DSR 256 cams-done
1/4 EVO Motor sports phenolic spacer -done
full ported and polished lower intake-done
2.9 clone with spark plug [email protected] (inside) removed, ported and polished-done
OBX SS header ported and polished -ceramic coated -done
full straight through 2.5 exhaust, no cat ,one resonator and borla muffler -done
full C2 V2 SC kit-done
42# injectors-done
42# chip -done
9-1 head spacer-done
walbro inline pump -done
15 psi cogged set up from verdict -waiting
Snow Performance stage 2 water meth kit tuned for more cooling than fuel 60/40-done
all emissions removed EVAP,2nd air, cat, crank case breather [email protected]
Euro sport oil cooler -done
AC removed-done
Sach HD clutch good for 350lb torque -done
peliqun LSD and fully rebuilt trans with reline fluid -done
BFI green motor mounts all around-done
i think thats all what do you guys think??
is 350hp+ realistic?
if not ill go turbo 
thanks


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Nailbunny86)*

youd be very close imo. bring your compression back up to stock, and run the 15psi setup. with the proper tune, youd be fine.
keep in mind you dont need a ton of power to be fast...


----------



## Nailbunny86 (Oct 18, 2005)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_youd be very close imo. bring your compression back up to stock, and run the 15psi setup. with the proper tune, youd be fine.
keep in mind you dont need a ton of power to be fast...

wont i be safer with the 9-1 spacer i there?
i know i can tune the W/M for detonation control but is it really worth the risk? also i think the 42# software is tuned for the spacer and might have drive ability issues out of boost and im only going to gain like 5 HP if i take out the spacer right??
im not looking to be the fastest out there but i want to get all i can out of my charger and i have ditched a lot of weight as well
thank for the input http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Nailbunny86)*

i run 12psi stock compression. 15psi may be safer on the 9:1 since your on chip tuned software. if you were on standalone youd be better off imo.
42# stuff is more than youll ever need, so you should be good there. youd be around 300+/- more or less. 350 is a bit harder to reach tho


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (Nailbunny86)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Nailbunny86* »_
wont i be safer with the 9-1 spacer i there?
i know i can tune the W/M for detonation control but is it really worth the risk? also i think the 42# software is tuned for the spacer and might have drive ability issues out of boost and im only going to gain like 5 HP if i take out the spacer right??
im not looking to be the fastest out there but i want to get all i can out of my charger and i have ditched a lot of weight as well
thank for the input http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

9.4 Would be a safe compromise of power and detonation control, however with 15psi I would run a AWIC to keep intake temps in check. WM is nice but not as safe as a true IC setup. The C2 tune that your running will most likely need to be tweeked as it will be running too rich for your supercharged setup.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

Here's the best vid I could get. Crappy camera, though it sorta sounds like i have a boost leak in the vid, I don't. Boost levels seem fine at idle and when driving, though I haven't pushed it as it sounds like it's some bearing issue. 
Anyhow, Sean from VF is already talking to me so I have to say they're doing a good job on customer service thus far.
http://people.virginia.edu/~jg...7.MPG


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_Here's the best vid I could get. Crappy camera, though it sorta sounds like i have a boost leak in the vid, I don't. Boost levels seem fine at idle and when driving, though I haven't pushed it as it sounds like it's some bearing issue. 
Anyhow, Sean from VF is already talking to me so I have to say they're doing a good job on customer service thus far.
http://people.virginia.edu/~jg...7.MPG 

Glad to hear Sean is taking care of ya http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
It does sound like you've got a bad vacumn leak of sorts, but doesn't entirely sound like bearings. When bearings go it sounds like a grinder and obviously gets louder when the rpms are increased. Yours could definitely be in the early stages, but I'd avoid driving it until you remove the s/c and inspect the bearings.


_Modified by MeCarTay at 5:11 PM 2-10-2009_


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*

Yeah, I know... but I thankfully don't now that I put the charge pipe back together, lol. That was an amusing drive home without it being hooked up.
Anyhow, so far so good, just waiting to hear back from him. Might try and see if I can get a better vid for him to hear what's going on. It sounds.. like a real high speed grinder right now, whereas it used to have the expected whine, which sounded good, this now sounds a bit... unhappy.. hehe


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (Nailbunny86)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Nailbunny86* »_So here is what im planning for my set up and i want to know what you guys think, im aiming for 350+ HP
1998 gti vr6 OBD2
100% re built block -done
100% rebuilt head,ported and polished-done
HD valve springs-done
DSR 256 cams-done
1/4 EVO Motor sports phenolic spacer -done
full ported and polished lower intake-done
2.9 clone with spark plug [email protected] (inside) removed, ported and polished-done
OBX SS header ported and polished -ceramic coated -done
full straight through 2.5 exhaust, no cat ,one resonator and borla muffler -done
full C2 V2 SC kit-done
42# injectors-done
42# chip -done
9-1 head spacer-done
walbro inline pump -done
15 psi cogged set up from verdict -waiting
Snow Performance stage 2 water meth kit tuned for more cooling than fuel 60/40-done
all emissions removed EVAP,2nd air, cat, crank case breather [email protected]
Euro sport oil cooler -done
AC removed-done
Sach HD clutch good for 350lb torque -done
peliqun LSD and fully rebuilt trans with reline fluid -done
BFI green motor mounts all around-done
i think thats all what do you guys think??
is 350hp+ realistic?
if not ill go turbo 
thanks









350chp isn't out of the question for an entry level v1/v2. I'd reconsider your compression ratio like Noah mentioned. 9.4.1 is much more ideal and will be low enough if you opt to convert to a T-trim down the road. Like whats often discussed it all comes down to the tune and with a tailored tune you can take advantage of the cams, w/m and so on. C2s s/w often runs rather rich and thus the performance is hindered. Its really amazing what adjustments to the tune will do in terms of performance gains. Especially with cams.
CorradoMagic's car made another 20whp with a custom tune vs. the off the shelf 30# C2 tune
Groupracer's car made another 33whp with adjustments to the fuel delivery with C2's 36# tune.
Just goes to show that turbo and supercharger tunes aren't the same.


_Modified by MeCarTay at 5:48 PM 2-10-2009_


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_Here's the best vid I could get. Crappy camera, though it sorta sounds like i have a boost leak in the vid, I don't. Boost levels seem fine at idle and when driving, though I haven't pushed it as it sounds like it's some bearing issue. 
Anyhow, Sean from VF is already talking to me so I have to say they're doing a good job on customer service thus far.
http://people.virginia.edu/~jg...7.MPG 

Sounds like the bearings could be on their way out, does not sound like they have failed completely yet. You can take the belt off and rotate the charger pulley by hand, it should spin freely and smooth, if it feels like there is a faint resistance that comes and goes as you rotate the charger or that it feels slightly notchy as rotated then it would appear the bearings will need replacement.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*

hrmm...


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_
You can take the belt off and rotate the charger pulley by hand, it should spin freely and smooth 

Question about that. How freely is freely? My charger pulley spun by hand smoothly, there was absolutely no shaft play, but it was tight. Like if you slapped your hand on the pulley to try and get it to spin fast, it would spin while your hand was on it but stop immediately. It wouldn't keep any revolutions from it's own rotation. Should the pulley be that tight?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_
Question about that. How freely is freely? My charger pulley spun by hand smoothly, there was absolutely no shaft play, but it was tight. Like if you slapped your hand on the pulley to try and get it to spin fast, it would spin while your hand was on it but stop immediately. It wouldn't keep any revolutions from it's own rotation. Should the pulley be that tight? 

Yes, the rotational mass and drag on the bearings when they are perfectly fine will prevent the input shaft from continuing to spin after you stop applying force. Bad bearings cause more drag as well as make rotation of the charger a lot harder.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

Thanks for the tip, I'll have to see about pulling the bumper back off this weekend and test that. Hopefully Sean at VF will do right and help me get this thing fixed. 
Thanks for everyone's help and advice, as before, y'all rock. Happy to see people on the 'tex coming together on something. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## all-starr-me (Jul 14, 2003)

*Re: (Nailbunny86)*

get some Bigger cams like schrick or DRC 268's. consider running the T-trim charger and 9.5:1 compression.
also what final drive did you go with. a 3.6 or a 3.9 R&P will make it feel a lot faster with the tighter gearing.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_
Yes, the rotational mass and drag on the bearings when they are perfectly fine will prevent the input shaft from continuing to spin after you stop applying force. Bad bearings cause more drag as well as make rotation of the charger a lot harder. 

ok, good. That's what I figured, but wanted to double check. It would seem to me that the inherent drag on the gears and bearings inside the charger would prevent it from spinning without applied force. it would seem a little weird if the pulley just spun freely of its own accord. kind of like there was nothing inside...

good luck on getting your charger up and running Das. Sean has always taken care of me in the past, although that only equates to him selling me parts that I needed to complete my install, so hopefully he comes through for you when you're not offering to give him money.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MeCarTay* »_
CorradoMagic's car made another 20whp with a custom tune vs. the off the shelf 30# C2 tune
Groupracer's car made another 33whp with adjustments to the fuel delivery with C2's 36# tune.
Just goes to show that turbo and supercharger tunes aren't the same.

VERY true. i was stuck at high 12's all day. once i tuned the a/f ratios properly, i dropped to mid 12's just like that.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

is anyone here using a fuel press gauge or e85?


_Modified by EL DRIFTO at 1:05 AM 2-12-2009_


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EL DRIFTO* »_is anyone here using a fuel press gauge or e85?

_Modified by EL DRIFTO at 1:05 AM 2-12-2009_

Running a fuel pressure gauge here, no E85 tho.


----------



## eliosbluejetta (May 1, 2008)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

what type of engine management are you using


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (eliosbluejetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *eliosbluejetta* »_what type of engine management are you using









old c2 software with an apexi super afc piggy back system....for now anyway. in june, that all changes.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_
old c2 software with an apexi super afc piggy back system....for now anyway. in june, that all changes.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (slc92)*

these guys put procharger$ on vr6 before
House of Boost 913 788 3900


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

Got the bumper off, no leaks, Sean at VF said to pull the charge piping and take pics of any oil coming out of the charge pipe so they can get an RMA for the blower, that and test the pulley like was mentioned.
Once again folks, thanks for the advice and shoulder to cry on. hehehehe








So sad to hear the happy car, see the happy boost level and just not get the oomph out of it, then roll my passenger window down and it doesn't sound so happy no mo. Hehehe


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EL DRIFTO* »_these guys put procharger$ on vr6 before
House of Boost 913 788 3900









http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif good info.


----------



## Nailbunny86 (Oct 18, 2005)

*Re: (all-starr-me)*


_Quote, originally posted by *all-starr-me* »_get some Bigger cams like schrick or DRC 268's. consider running the T-trim charger and 9.5:1 compression.
also what final drive did you go with. a 3.6 or a 3.9 R&P will make it feel a lot faster with the tighter gearing.

so ware do i get a 9.5:1 head spacer?? and how much are they??


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (Nailbunny86)*

pm sent on the hg spacer


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

New charger support bracket for AMS & C2 Supercharger Kits:
















Reduces the load on the three bolts that hold the bracket to the head (tensioner bolting location) in order to prevent stripping of the threads and spread out the load. It also prevents the twisting action of the bracket assembly that is caused by the swing point on the brackets and the lack of rigidity within the assembly, which thus causes belt climbing and alignment issues. All of which are contributing factors in premature bearing and seal failure. 










_Modified by MeCarTay at 1:54 AM 2-16-2009_


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*

i takeit where you thumb is, is a long bolt to go thru all the brackets into the "block" of the supercharger bracketry?
looks like it...


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_i takeit where you thumb is, is a long bolt to go thru all the brackets into the "block" of the supercharger bracketry?
looks like it...

Bingo.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_
Bingo.

thought so...available online yet?


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_
thought so...available online yet?

Yessir, just waiting on the mounting hardware to come in http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 631 Corrado (Jan 14, 2003)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*

damn phil and noah pull through again.... that looks like a quality piece you have there http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
p.s.- i hope your ready to procharge the r32 soon









_Modified by 631 Corrado at 5:55 PM 2-16-2009_


_Modified by 631 Corrado at 5:56 PM 2-16-2009_


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (631 Corrado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *631 Corrado* »_
p.s.- i hope your ready to procharge the r32 soon









Ready when you are chief http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*

How small of a pulley can i put on my V9 (fresh ABEC9 rebuild) and run on a stock R32 engine?
C2 400hp fuelling kit.
stock compression (stage II VF kit)
stock sized (aluminum) crank pulley
wanna run the boost up to around 13-15psi at max boost. thoughts?


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (dr. b)*

i dont think the bearings will last too long even is they are new. you will also have a lot of belt slip with a pulley that small...but you could make a bigger crank pulley and go for it!


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (dr. b)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dr. b* »_How small of a pulley can i put on my V9 (fresh ABEC9 rebuild) and run on a stock R32 engine?
C2 400hp fuelling kit.
stock compression (stage II VF kit)
stock sized (aluminum) crank pulley
wanna run the boost up to around 13-15psi at max boost. thoughts?

There is a calculator on Vortech's website. You enter crank pulley size, max rpm, SC pulley size, etc. It wont tell you boost but it will tell you if you are spinning the V9 past it's max rpm which I think is ~60k efficient, 65k absolute.
2.2" pulley made 11.5 psi at 7k rpm on my 12V. Belt was as tight as you could get it, no intercooler, and no boost leaks. Watch the belt tension on a V9. They don't like alot of it


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (slc92)*

did you have a dual idler?


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (dr. b)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dr. b* »_How small of a pulley can i put on my V9 (fresh ABEC9 rebuild) and run on a stock R32 engine?
C2 400hp fuelling kit.
stock compression (stage II VF kit)
stock sized (aluminum) crank pulley
wanna run the boost up to around 13-15psi at max boost. thoughts?

Don't push your V9 past 12psi. At 13 and above they tend to go kaboom. We've tested ABEC 9 ceramics at 13.2psi on a 12v with stock compression (10.1:1) and the bearings started making noise immediately. At 12.1 its perfectly fine and has been for over 10k miles. On 10.5:1 we've tested a v9 f-trim with a cogged drive @ 12.1 psi and made 313.3 whp on pump gas (93 octane).


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (mk4vrjtta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk4vrjtta* »_did you have a dual idler?

Yes. Dual idler and 150 ft-lbs of belt tension. No audible belt slip, no boost leaks, boost gauge rose steadily.
That's just what they produce on a 12V. Vf's stage 3 setup for mk3's use the 2.2" pulley and see ~10psi w/ an intercooler. Pretty sure Mk4's are the same.


----------



## gticarlos2003 (Jan 19, 2005)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

pm'd corradomagin i have a question


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (gticarlos2003)*

Right off Vortech

V9 F-Trim
Max Speed: 52000 RPM<-----absolute max
Max Boost:13.5 PSI<----absolute max
Max Flow: 750 CFM
Max Power: 550 HP
Peak Efficiency: 72%


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

So where can you figure out pulley diameters to boost levels? I'm looking to run a v1 t trim higher than 15psi.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_So where can you figure out pulley diameters to boost levels? I'm looking to run a v1 t trim higher than 15psi. 


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_
There is a calculator on Vortech's website. You enter crank pulley size, max rpm, SC pulley size, etc. It wont tell you boost but it will tell you if you are spinning the V9 past it's max rpm which I think is ~60k efficient, 65k absolute. 

all you need to know is the stock pulley diameter, which i dont remember at the moment


_Modified by -THROTTLE- at 1:44 PM 2-22-2009_


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MeCarTay* »_Right off Vortech

V9 F-Trim
Max Speed: 52000 RPM<-----absolute max
Max Boost:13.5 PSI<----absolute max
Max Flow: 750 CFM
Max Power: 550 HP
Peak Efficiency: 72%


This is funny. They changed that for the V9 F within the past year. It used to read 60K efficient max, 65k absolute max.
Might have something to do with all the V9 F's they have had to warranty from VF.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (slc92)*

this is funnier


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_
This is funny. They changed that for the V9 F within the past year. It used to read 60K efficient max, 65k absolute max.
Might have something to do with all the V9 F's they have had to warranty from VF. 

My count is three times in the past 2 years.


----------



## sgt snuffles (Aug 16, 2007)

AHHH never had to with my v1 and the future ownder never will either even at 20psi : )


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

Took some pics of the blower and charge pipe for VF as Sean stated that the presence of oil would help them get an RMA# for me, and there was a light film of it in the coupler and at the edge of the discharge pipe, nothing solid as I haven't run the car much, but definitely some oil stuff there. Hopefully I'll have a new blower as soon as possible. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_ Hopefully I'll have a new blower as soon as possible. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

It's usually takes them 2 months which I find absolutely ridiculous. Hopefully yours is faster.


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (sgt snuffles)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sgt snuffles* »_AHHH never had to with my v1 and the future ownder never will either even at 20psi : )

Thats because V1s use larger bearings all around unlike the V9.


----------



## slvr bullet (Aug 23, 2005)

I have stage 2 vf kit about to switch to c2 software. i have everything maf housing ect. My question is do i run that chip with maf clamp? 2.5 pulley is it worth upgrading to that will there be a belt slip issue or detonation?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (slvr bullet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slvr bullet* »_I have stage 2 vf kit about to switch to c2 software. i have everything maf housing ect. My question is do i run that chip with maf clamp? 2.5 pulley is it worth upgrading to that will there be a belt slip issue or detonation?

You will need to take the MAF clamp off as the C2 software is not programed for it.


----------



## slvr bullet (Aug 23, 2005)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

thanks for the input. was hoping to hear i could leave it


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (slvr bullet)*

the MAF clamp reduces the voltage the ecu sees from the maf by a certain %, the fueling is compensated the % to keep up with the demand without maxing out the MAF voltage. The C2 tune uses a larger MAF with a larger area so the MAF sensor wont MAX out.


----------



## slvr bullet (Aug 23, 2005)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

well put i understand what your saying it changes the values same as the big housing does. Any thought on the 2.5 pulley


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (slvr bullet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slvr bullet* »_well put i understand what your saying it changes the values same as the big housing does. Any thought on the 2.5 pulley

Actually clamp does nothing until you hit clamp voltage, then it just maintains that voltage. 1V in=1V out, 3Vin=3Vout, 4.7Vin=4.7Vout, Clamp set at ~4.9V, 5Vin= 4.9V out. 
x2 on the delete it with the C2 stuff. 2.5" should see ~9.5-10psi at 7k non IC. I would throw it on http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Run 93 octane and you'll be fine.


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (slc92)*

ok...odd question, but figured this would be the best place to ask it.
MK3 Supercharged VR (VF kit) + Jetta Ecodes...anyone else had fitment issues? The cap on the back of the light housing sticks out and runs into the front of the supercharger...for right now I took the cover off and have plenty of room, though it will let moisture into the housing. Any easy fixes?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (farfromugen)*

that happens with the V9 charger too? i know my V1 was about a 1/4" away, but with motor movement, it did make contact.
common issue from what i understand. do you have the euro rad support? mine was stock modded to fit e-codes, that may be what gave me clearance


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_that happens with the V9 charger too? i know my V1 was about a 1/4" away, but with motor movement, it did make contact.
common issue from what i understand. do you have the euro rad support? mine was stock modded to fit e-codes, that may be what gave me clearance

Still running stock support. Its not entirely the charger as much as the threaded portion of the large clamp that holds the housing of the unit. I'm thinking if I can find a large rubber cap that would work since it would flex with movement of the engine. I have yet to find anything on the web...here or Google. As popular as the VF kit and Jetta ecodes are/were it seems someone has dealt with this before.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (farfromugen)*

hrm, interesting. I'm going to install GTi ecodes this weekend. I never even thought that there could be a problem, but it is a bit tight in there. maybe I can check fitment before I cut my core support.
if you figure something else, post it up. I will be right where you are this Saturday...


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (farfromugen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *farfromugen* »_ok...odd question, but figured this would be the best place to ask it.
MK3 Supercharged VR (VF kit) + Jetta Ecodes...anyone else had fitment issues? The cap on the back of the light housing sticks out and runs into the front of the supercharger...for right now I took the cover off and have plenty of room, though it will let moisture into the housing. Any easy fixes?

How far is the charger tensioned? Depending where its at you can probably get away with a slightly shorter belt.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MeCarTay* »_
How far is the charger tensioned? Depending where its at you can probably get away with a slightly shorter belt.

thats what i was thinking. depending on belt size, mine either sat back a bit, or touched. look into it. if its the clamp holding the unit together, can you move it?


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_
thats what i was thinking. depending on belt size, mine either sat back a bit, or touched. look into it. if its the clamp holding the unit together, can you move it?

Its spot welded to the housing, so unless I want to clock the SC itself, it doesn't move. I think I have come up with a solution:
















Much slimmer than the original cap, as well as being flexible if SC makes contact, my only concern is heat and how the material holds up to it. There shouldn't be an incredible amount of heat, but I will have to test it. I'll keep everyone updated. 
For the other dude going GTI ecodes, I doubt the issue will be there. Because the Jetta lights are single chambered, the cap sits in the middle back, the offset of dual chambered lights might allow it to slide by. 
The belt idea is not a bad one, though only last week I ordered a new belt. The belt VF supplied is a 6rib 53" belt (stg 2 no A/C) I ordered an 8rib 53" with the intention of shaving a rib off. Has anyone shaved a rib off a belt before? I am anxious to find out how hard that is to pull off. 7rib belts in 53" are impossible to find.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (farfromugen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *farfromugen* »_
For the other dude going GTI ecodes, I doubt the issue will be there. Because the Jetta lights are single chambered, the cap sits in the middle back, the offset of dual chambered lights might allow it to slide by. 
The belt idea is not a bad one, though only last week I ordered a new belt. The belt VF supplied is a 6rib 53" belt (stg 2 no A/C) I ordered an 8rib 53" with the intention of shaving a rib off. * Has anyone shaved a rib off a belt before? I am anxious to find out how hard that is to pull off.* 7rib belts in 53" are impossible to find.








 

thanks for the info on that i didn't think of that either. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I shaved a rib off an 8 rib belt myself. it is the easiest thing in the world. I used a utility knife: make a small incision in the belt where you want the cut to start, then pull that rib off the rest of the way, like tearing paper. this is the easiest way. no need to cut the entire rib off. just start it and peel it


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

ah, that sounds very easy, cool







I know the MK4 GTI style lights I had on cleared it just fine, but no experience in the ecodes, hope the best for ya, and I'll try to post once I find out if the Qwik cap I bought works. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

My v9 and oem HID are a paper width apart from eachother.


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (littlenr)*

Well, after a little ghetto innovation, I was able to make it work. I might go back later and try something different:









I feel much better about this, the alternative was to leave it all exposed.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

That looks great! Good work.


----------



## Vortexpert (Apr 17, 2008)

*Re: (littlenr)*

question for all you guys/gals...
Relocation of the relcoated LDP (leak detection pump) 98 GTI VR6
currently i have it shoved in the hole in the pass front fender. where would there be a nice (hidden) out of the way location. 
during my stage 1 install 2yrs ago i just shoved it up in there, now i need the space. 
thanks fellow superchargers! 


_Modified by Vortexpert at 6:12 PM 2-25-2009_


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Vortexpert)*

i removed mine. im on c2 software though. just unplug it and go. if youre worried about inspection, make sure you keep it for later use.


----------



## Vortexpert (Apr 17, 2008)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

thanks throttle. 
how is your car running these days?


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (hover)*

nice thread


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (angelod307)*

i just pulled my V9 off (for an ABEC-9 rebuild) and was wondering if anyone knew the stock pulley size for a VF stage II R32 pulley was.
i have a 2.70 from a friend (off his mkIII stage II) and it's larger than the one on my car now. mine is a 2.63....no vf or vortech markings on it. thought that was kinda weird. and to really add confusion, i've not yet installed my boost gauge....maybe next weekend. (too damn cold in my non-heated garage this weekend)
thoughts?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Vortexpert)*

ran a 12.58 last year with it, and plan to go faster this year. so far its been perfect, no issues whatsoever http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Throttle im lookin for 11.50 this year. upgrades are installed and im ready to dyno again. Hope to see 400whp


----------



## sgt snuffles (Aug 16, 2007)

400WHP out of a vortech? pics of the dyno or GTFO!


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (sgt snuffles)*

he hopes...it could happen, or get very close.


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (sgt snuffles)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sgt snuffles* »_400WHP out of a vortech? pics of the dyno or GTFO!

already made 305 on a mustang dyno and if you want dynojet figs your lookin at around 350-360 plus i trap 117. 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FqqC9bwh2LI


_Modified by SUPERCHARGED-JETTA at 2:14 PM 3-1-2009_


_Modified by SUPERCHARGED-JETTA at 2:16 PM 3-1-2009_


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

*Re: (SUPERCHARGED-JETTA)*

Looking forward to some new times http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (vw1320)*

Looking forward to VF replacing my blower so I can dyno it.







Just waiting now, but was told (on this thread) that they take a while. Here's to hoping it gets handled right. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Anyone have a guess on an 02 12V Stage II, phenolic spacer, 2.5" full flow exhaust, 262 cams, lightweight lifters, race springs, Stage 2 WMI with 2 nozzles... I think that's it, few of my pullies are billet/aluminum but not underdriven, should be 8psi at max boost.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (vw1320)*

Too funny. I'm flattered that a 30#, chip tuned, 9-10psi, stock compression Corrado w/ moderate weight reduction and a bad 60' has your feathers all ruffled.








If I ever get serious I'll let you know . I got your trap w/ less boost and more weight so it won't be that hard








Not directed at you Sam. Good luck man and please smash that 11.6 whatever.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_Looking forward to VF replacing my blower so I can dyno it.







Just waiting now, but was told (on this thread) that they take a while. Here's to hoping it gets handled right. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Anyone have a guess on an 02 12V Stage II, phenolic spacer, 2.5" full flow exhaust, 262 cams, lightweight lifters, race springs, Stage 2 WMI with 2 nozzles... I think that's it, few of my pullies are billet/aluminum but not underdriven, should be 8psi at max boost. 

250-270whp, with the mods above and 12psi you would be 300-310whp


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

DMD, you have pm
i broke my v9 today. probably terminal. i need the gearcase. i can rebuild it with all my good/new parts. just let me know if you have one.
pm, email, call, or post.
any help would be greatly appreciated.
also open to v1,v3 conversions.


_Modified by dr. b at 9:26 PM 3-1-2009_


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_Too funny. I'm flattered that a 30#, chip tuned, 9-10psi, stock compression Corrado w/ moderate weight reduction and a bad 60' has your feathers all ruffled.








If I ever get serious I'll let you know . I got your trap w/ less boost and more weight so it won't be that hard








Not directed at you Sam. Good luck man and please smash that 11.6 whatever.


Ya i, workin on it bunch of new goodies onboard this year, I need too tune it on the dyno and then its track time


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (dr. b)*

PM answered http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

cant wait to finish the new setup


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (SUPERCHARGED-JETTA)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SUPERCHARGED-JETTA* »_
Ya i, workin on it bunch of new goodies onboard this year, I need too tune it on the dyno and then its track time









Awesome. Good luck and keep us posted. Still deciding which route I wanna go to lose the stock MAF as it's really the only thing keeping me from making ~400whp. Gonna try and get another Corrado into the 11's this year regardless.


----------



## sgt snuffles (Aug 16, 2007)

S?C jetta thats sick! i always thought like the highest dyno was 301 or something... you must not be chip tuned? or like a 3.0 vr?


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (sgt snuffles)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sgt snuffles* »_S?C jetta thats sick! i always thought like the highest dyno was 301 or something... you must not be chip tuned? or like a 3.0 vr? 

Congrats on the numbers superchargedjetta. I see you're running a v1/v2, but at what boost, cams, etc? Theres still much more power to be made, the limiting factor for the obd1 cars as slc92 mention is their lack of adjustability. Back in December we dyno'd a 12v mk4 and made 313.3whp with some adjustments to C2's 36lb tune on a V9 running 12psi and 262s. On an obd2 car with a v1/v2 I'm confident 350whp isn't out of the question with cams and a good tune. Corradomagic was the one that made 301 on a 30lb C2 tune that runs out of fuel after 5k. This spring should bring some new light I'm sure..


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*

fully agree. its all in the tune. i went a lot faster after a half ass tune to the c2 software. get it dialed in, and we will see what happens this year.
then by june ill be on haltech. should put some power down then.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MeCarTay* »_
Congrats on the numbers superchargedjetta. I see you're running a v1/v2, but at what boost, cams, etc? Theres still much more power to be made, the limiting factor for the obd1 cars as slc92 mention is their lack of adjustability. Back in December we dyno'd a 12v mk4 and made 313.3whp with some adjustments to C2's 36lb tune on a V9 running 12psi and 262s. On an obd2 car with a v1/v2 I'm confident 350whp isn't out of the question with cams and a good tune. Corradomagic was the one that made 301 on a 30lb C2 tune that runs out of fuel after 5k. This spring should bring some new light I'm sure..

There is always room for adjustability, fuel pressure, piggyback fuel controlers ect. im running a piggyback on my s/c and have been for years now. as 4 set up v1 dsr 256 sri larger air to water I/C 60lb injectors stock motor 200,000 mles no bs


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (SUPERCHARGED-JETTA)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SUPERCHARGED-JETTA* »_
There is always room for adjustability, fuel pressure, piggyback fuel controlers ect. im running a piggyback on my s/c and have been for years now. as 4 set up v1 dsr 256 sri larger air to water I/C 60lb injectors stock motor 200,000 mles no bs









Sam, what boost levels and compression are you seeing with that setup? Planning on running some bigger cams to get you up towards 400?


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

Thanks for the advice, I've been looking at a smaller pulley, but that will have to wait until I get the blower replaced/rebuilt.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

for anyone else on here wondering about ecode fitment issues, I just installed my smoked GTi ecodes this weekend and had NO clearance issues with my V9.


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_for anyone else on here wondering about ecode fitment issues, I just installed my smoked GTi ecodes this weekend and had NO clearance issues with my V9.

awesome http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
I'll bump this in hopes someone can help dr.b out...I pooped my pants a little when his case cracked...in hopes that he can get it fixed...


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (farfromugen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *farfromugen* »_
awesome http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
I'll bump this in hopes someone can help dr.b out...I pooped my pants a little when his case cracked...in hopes that he can get it fixed...

Contact VF and get the warranty process started. If its covered there's no point in paying out of pocket. Granted you'll have to wait a while for Vortech to go through their notions, but you'll probably end up with a new unit considering the gear case is ruined.


----------



## sgt snuffles (Aug 16, 2007)

all these problems with the V9 why doesnt VF just redesign for a diff charger? seems worth it.. V1?!?!


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (sgt snuffles)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sgt snuffles* »_all these problems with the V9 why doesnt VF just redesign for a diff charger? seems worth it.. V1?!?!

Easy. IMO VF is pretty much done w/ Supercharging. Look at the Kinetic thread vs. the VF thread which um doesn't exist. VF unplugged is also done and was a baron wasteland for awhile before that. The VR6 is pretty much done as well so no new models to expand the SC market. Retool a supercharger kit for 5-15 yr. old cars whn 95% are going turbo? I'm sure they have just decided that it's not worth it. 
It just comes down to numbers. How do you sell a SC kit w/ less power potential at a competitive price when the head unit costs ~$1400 more than the turbo? VF had their day. Once that Kinetic kit came out for $2500 w/ plug and play C2 software it was all over. C2 used to sell SC kits too. Why do you think they stopped?


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_
Sam, what boost levels and compression are you seeing with that setup? Planning on running some bigger cams to get you up towards 400?

Last time on dyno was seeing just under 12psi so we called it 11.5 psi same stock compression 60lb injectors 256 dsr cams eip chip with split second piggyback controller. Now going a little smaller pulley c2 custom chip larger air to water intercooler and i have yet to decide on fuel at this time i was using the 116 but it is very expensive gas so will see


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SUPERCHARGED-JETTA* »_
Last time on dyno was seeing just under 12psi so we called it 11.5 psi same stock compression 60lb injectors 256 dsr cams eip chip with split second piggyback controller. Now going a little smaller pulley c2 custom chip larger air to water intercooler and i have yet to decide on fuel at this time i was using the 116 but it is very expensive gas so will see

3" exhaust/ cutout right? C16 would be good to keep that detonation in check. 200k on the stock block big http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif for that. Perhaps a little hotter cam to get those HP numbers up? 262's or 268's?

_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_
Easy. IMO VF is pretty much done w/ Supercharging. Look at the Kinetic thread vs. the VF thread which um doesn't exist. VF unplugged is also done and was a baron wasteland for awhile before that. The VR6 is pretty much done as well so no new models to expand the SC market. Retool a supercharger kit for 5-15 yr. old cars whn 95% are going turbo? I'm sure they have just decided that it's not worth it. 
It just comes down to numbers. How do you sell a SC kit w/ less power potential at a competitive price when the head unit costs ~$1400 more than the turbo? VF had their day. Once that Kinetic kit came out for $2500 w/ plug and play C2 software it was all over. C2 used to sell SC kits too. Why do you think they stopped?

No offense Steve, but I think everyone here is hardcore "SC or Die", beating the topic to death really has no point these days. Yes C2, AMS are done and VF is following suit, but that does not mean that setups wont be built. But hey some of do it for fun, some for the challenge. The reason I am assuming VF would leave the market is because of the fact that VR6 supercharger setups dont pay all the bills these days, but I cant blame them with what they have going. Shop overhead and CNC cost plus design software and materials have gone through the roof these days.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

^^
None taken and please take my comments at face value. They were strictly from a business standpoint and hadnothing to do with what's better, SC vs. turbo, etc. The guy asked why VF doesn't retool to a V1 setup and my opinion is the same reason no one else makes a SC kit for the VR. It's not lucrative from a business standpoint anymore.
For the record, I would never come into this thread w/ "go turbo" or "SC suck" bs. Everything isn't for everybody


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_
For the record, I would never come into this thread w/ "go turbo" or "SC suck" bs. Everything isn't for everybody










You never know, you did switch sides...lol
Any luck with that C2 tune and a larger MAF?


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

Well to each his own. There are pros and cons either way you chose to go. Here in florida i have scene people put tons of money in a turbo vr project just to have a mess of problems with melted piston rings to running good 1 day and the next day running on 2 cylinders







So i say make the best out of what you have and most of all HAVE FUN WITH IT!


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (SUPERCHARGED-JETTA)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SUPERCHARGED-JETTA* »_Well to each his own. There are pros and cons either way you chose to go. Here in florida i have scene people put tons of money in a turbo vr project just to have a mess of problems with melted piston rings to running good 1 day and the next day running on 2 cylinders







So i say make the best out of what you have and most of all HAVE FUN WITH IT!

Do the VRT's really suffer that bad with the heat? Or is it that they crank too much boost with out the proper intake temp control? I never had issues with the SC setup even in Vegas and the Salt Flats in dead summer. What do you see for oil temps when its say 85F?


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

SC








turbos have more heat issues lb for lb and comp for compression.
i have no thermostat, ic blocking radiator though, in the summer when my water is 170, oil is 15-30 degrees higher
it might get up to 220+ after hours of driving on a 95 degree day, never been over 240, even when it was lean
stock compression, e85 brings it all down 15-20 degrees


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

What changes, if any, did you make to run E85?


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_
Do the VRT's really suffer that bad with the heat? Or is it that they crank too much boost with out the proper intake temp control? I never had issues with the SC setup even in Vegas and the Salt Flats in dead summer. What do you see for oil temps when its say 85F?

No probs here. I've never seen over 200F oil temps and coolant is 160-195 depending on what T stat I have in the car. Temps are exactly what they were w/ the SC. Boost is boost. I have noticed some more heat back by the manifold. Turbo blanket, homemade heatshield, and wrapped DP have cured that. 
If someone is melting pistons they are doing something wrong.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_
No probs here. I've never seen over 200F oil temps and coolant is 160-195 depending on what T stat I have in the car. Temps are exactly what they were w/ the SC. Boost is boost. I have noticed some more heat back by the manifold. Turbo blanket, homemade heatshield, and wrapped DP have cured that. 
If someone is melting pistons they are doing something wrong. 

it seems like 10:1, 13 psi pump gas turbo wouldn't have the same timing/eff as sc


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (slc92)*

Cruising on the way down to FL with the VRT I was seeing 212-220 cruising and 228-238 after hard boosting. 
Ambient temp was between 60 and maybe 75F.

Turbos themselves generate more heat and thus the oil is going to be hotter. Coolant temps on the other hand don't seem to change that often considering its operated off of a thermostat.
Hence why a thermostatic oil cooler wouldn't hurt.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (farfromugen)*

Quote, originally posted by kc drifto » 
you have to regap the plugs 2/3 to run e
you can also advance timing more because of octane
i'm getting the same mpg on e as gasoline in only 1 of my cars 87 16v scir
i've unplugged the knock sensor, cranked the dist all clockwise
turn the knob on my dash all the way down (like a short on the eng temp sensor to the jetronic means min. afr @ diff pres reg)
when i'm driving around town, under vacuum, the vacuum line to the ignition brain cranks timing way up because of the lack of molecules in the combustion chamber
i've hit 30 mpg @ 82 mph, 4400 rpms, both ways, 92 octane would of been 25mpg
everyone seems to agree that cooling system demands go down when switching to e so the btu thermal efficiency cannot be the same
if a gasoline engine is 37% eff, and a diesel engine is 50% eff, there's allot of room for improvement.
lets say by cranking my timing and compression to a point that would normally overheat a gas motor, i've "ethanol optimized" my car to get same mpg as "change 2 e85 .com" says about brazilian cars 30 years ago...
a diesel engine uses different technology to use 23:1 compression, no throttle body, and a fuel with a lower than gas flashpoint.
octane?
e85 has a lower flashpoint (race on e85 . com mentions colder plugs although you would think hotter)
WAY higher octane, allowing compression and timing squeeze (slower burning) that gas people are afraid off. 2 years on e! ahahahahahahah
could someone please quote me the article about the gm suv that got 24% less mileage, but hasn't tried e once please so i can tell you how many vehicles, mowers and weed eaters i've tried it on and how compression directly affects those #'s 
i'm getting the same mpg on e as gas but my car is faster, colder and quieter 
i haven't taken any time to help anyone by starting my own thread instead of hijacking everyone else's stuff
it's no more complicated that 20% mo fuel
specific gravity? issues
a fuel pump that maxes at 100 psi, 100% duty cycle at the injector won't hold 100 psi, with e85 @ 100% duty
i keep a fuel pres gauge where i can see it, anyone blow their motor cause their fuel tank was low
i imagine everyone would need more pump output if you're close now
i imagine someone needing 30% more fuel, while never watching their fuel pres may be compensating for something
if pres x volume = max hp from fuel pump, is it surprising that opening the valve more with a bigger injector isn't going to deliver anymore volume in the same time when the pres starts dropping as the duty increases near the top


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

^ A topic I'd love to talk about and experiment more with.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (slc92)*

boost is boost
power adder vs power adder
the question has already been answered by bracket racing
who gets a bigger motor
the load of both power adders comes off both cranks BUT
the turbo's load is added to the pumping eff of the eng/pistons


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EL DRIFTO* »_boost is boost
power adder vs power adder
the question has already been answered by bracket racing
who gets a bigger motor
the load of both power adders comes off both cranks BUT
the turbo's load is added to the pumping eff of the eng/pistons

That goes without saying. 
I'm talking about overall efficiency, improving upon it and e85. Have you done any testing with it vs. traditional pump gas? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by MeCarTay at 3:10 PM 3-3-2009_


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

my scir gets more e mpg than gas mpg
if 65% of the energy from a gas motor comes out of the radiator and an e motor delivering the same constant power has less heat in the radiator, what would physics geeks tell you
so btus are btus and 20% less in e, that means my scir is running 45% eff on e, it really doesn't heat up for 10 miles with a thermostat in the winter
my scvr gets same mpg on e. my compression, boost, timing program goes to hell without e
meth is worthless with e
100 octane, but cooler, heat problems go away


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

does a computer w/a chip tune have enough adjust ability with timing to compensate for running e, or does it need tuning? I've heard of issues with rubber in the system being old and failing once e85 hits it, similar to issues some have with switching to synthetic oil late in life of the engine.
e85 interests me, especially with the higher octane levels. A friend of mine has an built DSM that runs e85 only, however he had to adjust for it (he has standalone)


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (farfromugen)*

govt law mandated everything be e compatable 1986
i've seen first hand what it does to pre 86 rubber and it's beyond your imagination's first guess... it somehow liquifies the cohesive quality of the rubber into the fuel. we threw that 85 gti away


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EL DRIFTO* »_boost is boost
power adder vs power adder
the question has already been answered by bracket racing
who gets a bigger motor
the load of both power adders comes off both cranks BUT
the turbo's load is added to the pumping eff of the eng/pistons

Boost is Boost ? I beg to differ its all about cfm, Size does matter!


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (SUPERCHARGED-JETTA)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SUPERCHARGED-JETTA* »_
Boost is Boost ? I beg to differ its all about cfm, Size does matter!

Boost is a measure of resistance. Cubic Feet Per Minute is a measure of airflow. People often seem to confuse the two, but for argument sake we'll use CFM cause its more specific. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## The Popemobile (May 3, 2006)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EL DRIFTO* »_govt law mandated everything be e compatable 1986
i've seen first hand what it does to pre 86 rubber and it's beyond your imagination's first guess... it somehow liquifies the cohesive quality of the rubber into the fuel. we threw that 85 gti away

check the owners manual 1st!!! many late models cars (fed regs or not) are specific to NOT use greater than 10% ethanol by volume, or damage to the fuel system will occur.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (The Popemobile)*

the owners manual also says to go easy at breakin, doesn't mention sc
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

*FV-QR*

im confused, is there a model of vortech charger that dosnt require a oil supply or return line hooked to it? a all self contained oiling system charger?..... id like more info on something like this for a non=vw project of mine.


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (carsluTT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *carsluTT* »_im confused, is there a model of vortech charger that dosnt require a oil supply or return line hooked to it? a all self contained oiling system charger?..... id like more info on something like this for a non=vw project of mine.


V3 charger, according to Vortech's site, it bolts to V1 or V2 bracketry.


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (farfromugen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *farfromugen* »_
V3 charger, according to Vortech's site, it bolts to V1 or V2 bracketry.

interesting.... The lines are a pita.


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *ThaCorradoKid* »_
interesting.... The lines are a pita.



totaly, wish i would have knoen that befor i made my v1 fit........ but my new project wont have any space for lines so!....... now to find one for under 2500! yieks....... pullies will be next on the list to find. 
thanks!


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (ThaCorradoKid)*

yeah, I looked at the V3 before doing mine, but did not feel like piecing together a kit. I have a friend who has been contemplating one, would be cool to see what they are like. If someone was selling the brackets from a C2 kit, it would make a nice piece together. The other benefit is that if your SC bearings bomb on you, there is no risk of introducing metal pieces into the lubricating system. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Dreyven (Dec 26, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (farfromugen)*

All the talks about Superchargers dieing down and companies not supporting it is kinda depressing since over the past week or 2 I've been seriously looking into SC'in my VR6. 
Funny how with it going down and demand going down the prices have stayed stable so I have yet to be able to afford it.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Dreyven)*

theres kits on here for less than 2grand.


----------



## Dreyven (Dec 26, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_theres kits on here for less than 2grand. 

Point them out if you don't mind... The search function hasn't been working unfortunatly for me. Says the server is unavailable.
Not like I have the 2 grand right now anyways but could always keep an eye on the threads
Also for you Supercharger guys what's the difference between MKIII and MKIV 12v chargers. Would I just need to clock the Super so the blower points forward? Is clocking even an option. I know slightly more about turbo's than I do about supers and the sad part is that isn't saying much.


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Dreyven)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Dreyven* »_Also for you Supercharger guys what's the difference between MKIII and MKIV 12v chargers. Would I just need to clock the Super so the blower points forward? Is clocking even an option. I know slightly more about turbo's than I do about supers and the sad part is that isn't saying much.









Superchargers and brackets are the same. The only difference is piping and software for the VF kits.


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (MeCarTay)*

Two quick things: 
Search is down, but I have seen this somewhere. Replacing the oil drain fitting on the bottom of a V9 (VF kit) from the 90* they have to a 45* for better flow. I know Earls makes such a fitting, (NPT 45* to barb fitting) but does anyone recall the sizes, ie: 3/4" NPT to 3/4" barb? I can always go out to the car, pull the pass. headlight and remove said piece, but it would be sooooo much easier to order and then go through above steps when installing.
Other thing, has anyone with the MK3 kit replaced their catch can from VF with something more user friendly and retained the same location? I would like one that lets you see whats going on and sits at an appropriate angle so as to do its job correctly. My friend VF S/C'd R32 came with a nice bracket and screwed into the firewall. Mine just kind of hangs out in front of the passenger side strut tower.


----------



## Dreyven (Dec 26, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (MeCarTay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MeCarTay* »_
Superchargers and brackets are the same. The only difference is piping and software for the VF kits.

Cool so if someone had a charger on an MKIII for sale I can pick it up? They can't send me the software anyways right so I would have to go somewhere to get Flashed.
Would oil lines and such be the same? Piping would be ok as I can just ebay some IC piping alone with an IC to run on my car anyways.
Thanks for the help so far. I want to dive in this spring (would be my first big project on any car) and this thread would be my bible for a while.
Also how hard is it to do the oil lines. Would I need to buy a taped oil pan from like ATP or would the source come from the block?


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Dreyven)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Dreyven* »_
Cool so if someone had a charger on an MKIII for sale I can pick it up? They can't send me the software anyways right so I would have to go somewhere to get Flashed.
Would oil lines and such be the same? Piping would be ok as I can just ebay some IC piping alone with an IC to run on my car anyways.
Thanks for the help so far. I want to dive in this spring (would be my first big project on any car) and this thread would be my bible for a while.
Also how hard is it to do the oil lines. Would I need to buy a taped oil pan from like ATP or would the source come from the block?

Yessir. For software I'd send your ecu to C2 and have Jeff install his 36lb tune. I've run it in the past and its well sorted and writes out secondary air and evap. Oil lines are also the same, but can be made by any FLNMAR in your area. I'd recommend stainless with quick disconnect fittings which making removing and installing easier then pulling that stupid oil return line off that long AN fitting. Depending on your boost level I'd avoid an FMIC as its not needed in most V9 cases. We've ran all our cars to the pan and never had any issues with over 100,000 combined miles. Just make sure its high and your oil return is angled down and not up like I've seen here in the past. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by MeCarTay at 2:12 AM 3-7-2009_


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Dreyven)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Dreyven* »_
Point them out if you don't mind... The search function hasn't been working unfortunatly for me. Says the server is unavailable.


http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4280067
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4263783
didnt use search, just went thru the forced induction classifieds real quick.


----------



## TrierBora (Jun 20, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (-THROTTLE-)*

Glad to have mine back on the road today... water pump pulley went out so I replaced it with the gruven billet w/p pulley and new pump, coolant, etc. Missed that whine coming from under the hood http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (farfromugen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *farfromugen* »_ Replacing the oil drain fitting on the bottom of a V9 (VF kit) from the 90* they have to a 45* for better flow. I know Earls makes such a fitting, (NPT 45* to barb fitting) but does anyone recall the sizes, ie: 3/4" NPT to 3/4" barb? I can always go out to the car, pull the pass. headlight and remove said piece, but it would be sooooo much easier to order and then go through above steps when installing.


not trying to be a d-bag and quote my own post, but wondered if anyone had this info on hand? If not, I can tear into it, just thought I'd try once more before getting my hands dirty...








What I am looking to do: (stolen pic)










_Modified by farfromugen at 1:29 PM 3-8-2009_


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_

You never know, you did switch sides...lol
Any luck with that C2 tune and a larger MAF? 

It runs but not well. The car has a couple other issues that I need to fix before I dig into things. Found a broken tps signal wire and the car has always run like garbage since isv was deleted. Gonna fix the tps wiring and rerun isv and see.
MAF voltage is steady and where I would expect. To my surprise the car is super LEAN after switching to the 42's vs the 30's. Maybe it's that non linear MAF thing. 2.4V down to 2.0V means ALOT less air perhaps. Honestly, I think I'll need a piggyback and alot of time that I don't have right now. I may go back to the 30's and stock MAF and revisit this.


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (slc92)*

Well guys car is ready for dyno I took a few pics.


























_Modified by SUPERCHARGED-JETTA at 2:27 PM 3-8-2009_


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (SUPERCHARGED-JETTA)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SUPERCHARGED-JETTA* »_Well guys car is ready for dyno I took a few pics.

























_Modified by SUPERCHARGED-JETTA at 2:27 PM 3-8-2009_

Looking mean...Dyno numbers and Video asap!


----------



## Dreyven (Dec 26, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (MeCarTay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MeCarTay* »_
Yessir. For software I'd send your ecu to C2 and have Jeff install his 36lb tune. I've run it in the past and its well sorted and writes out secondary air and evap. Oil lines are also the same, but can be made by any FLNMAR in your area. I'd recommend stainless with quick disconnect fittings which making removing and installing easier then pulling that stupid oil return line off that long AN fitting. Depending on your boost level I'd avoid an FMIC as its not needed in most V9 cases. We've ran all our cars to the pan and never had any issues with over 100,000 combined miles. Just make sure its high and your oil return is angled down and not up like I've seen here in the past. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by MeCarTay at 2:12 AM 3-7-2009_

Thanks for the info. I'm am really hyped and getting more into this as I research. Just a question did you buy a pan or did you tap one yourself?
Also was wondering if a BOV would be a good idea to install. I know with turbo's it helps increase the life of the turbo and helps the car run smoothly because of releasing pressure in the charge pipe. If this something that is going to help the SC in the same manner. Is it completely worthless? 


_Modified by Dreyven at 6:52 PM 3-8-2009_


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

*Re: (SUPERCHARGED-JETTA)*

Awesome. Good luck on the dyno and at the track. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_
Looking mean...Dyno numbers and Video asap!

X2


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

Blow off vlaves dispense metered air, and make the car run rich. VWs like diverter valves that return the air to the intake after the MAF so the system never truely looses air.


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*

so i just rebuilt my V9 using the kit from superchargerrebuilds. everything came out great except that the seal behind the impeller is NOT doing its job.
two theories being tossed around on this:
1. press the seal in further....the outermost lip of the seal should go down further onto the shaft.
2. replace theseal and make sure that it meets the shaft properly. 
all of the instructions that i found said to press the seal until it's flush with the housing. that set the outer lip off of the impeller shaft. i think that's the reason for my airfilter becoming a catch can. (not the coolest thing i've ever seen at all.)
one of the guys that helped me wants to pull the impeller and press the seal in further. i'm getting kinda frustrated with the whole dammm thing and would gladly replace the seal if it will fix this MAJOR LEAK. it's got about 30 minutes of run time on it the way it is. the bearings all sound great, and nothing wobbles or warbles. all that seems to be wrong in the world is the smallest piece in the kit.
































































ideas?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (dr. b)*

Did you use a little oil on the seal when pressing it in? Some times if you do not it can cause a tear or that it just wont seat initially. It should be flush when installed. The inner part of the seal needs to look like 
_______ 
<| |>
| |
| |
| |
The seal is represented by <> The lower part of the seal edge might not have seated properly around the shaft and thus is causing the leak. I will take some pictures of an old seal tomorrow to show you.


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

Awesome thanks.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (dr. b)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dr. b* »_Awesome thanks.

NP Chris http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

So I'm looking into upgrading my software/ECU from the GIAC that came with the VF Stage 2 kit. Of course I have the Stage 2 and the stuff I mentioned in a previous post...
Stage 2 Snow Performance WMI w/ dual nozzles, etc.
262 Autotech cams w/ lightweight lifters and springs
2.5" exhaust w/ high flow cat
phenolic spacer (not sure how useful on mkIV but was given to me)
typical VF stage 2 V-9 kit
I've been looking at C2's software, do they have just a straight up package that would take good advantage of the parts on my system or am I doomed ($-wise hehe) to standalone?
Thanks!


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (farfromugen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *farfromugen* »_
not trying to be a d-bag and quote my own post, but wondered if anyone had this info on hand? If not, I can tear into it, just thought I'd try once more before getting my hands dirty...








What I am looking to do: (stolen pic)









_Modified by farfromugen at 1:29 PM 3-8-2009_

I would also like an answer to this question. Anyone know???


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_
I would also like an answer to this question. Anyone know??? 

Last night, using some items of reference, I guessed (or somewhat confirmed) 3/8" NPT to 1/2" barb. I ordered from Summit last night, so I will keep everyone updated. I'm about 98% sure this is right, but wait before buying one until I fully test. 
As an update: I just got off the phone with Vortech and they confirmed that it is a 3/8" NPT, and I confirmed it was a 1/2" barb by slipping a 1/2" hose over it yesterday, so I can say with certainty I ordered the correct item:
Earls part# 984408ERL
http://store.summitracing.com/...false 


_Modified by farfromugen at 1:36 PM 3-9-2009_


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (farfromugen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *farfromugen* »_
Last night, using some items of reference, I guessed (or somewhat confirmed) 3/8" NPT to 1/2" barb. I ordered from Summit last night, so I will keep everyone updated. I'm about 98% sure this is right, but wait before buying one until I fully test. 
As an update: I just got off the phone with Vortech and they confirmed that it is a 3/8" NPT, and I confirmed it was a 1/2" barb by slipping a 1/2" hose over it yesterday, so I can say with certainty I ordered the correct item:
Earls part# 984408ERL
http://store.summitracing.com/...false 



awesome, thank you!


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_So I'm looking into upgrading my software/ECU from the GIAC that came with the VF Stage 2 kit. Of course I have the Stage 2 and the stuff I mentioned in a previous post...
Stage 2 Snow Performance WMI w/ dual nozzles, etc.
262 Autotech cams w/ lightweight lifters and springs
2.5" exhaust w/ high flow cat
phenolic spacer (not sure how useful on mkIV but was given to me)
typical VF stage 2 V-9 kit
I've been looking at C2's software, do they have just a straight up package that would take good advantage of the parts on my system or am I doomed ($-wise hehe) to standalone?
Thanks!

C2's 36lb tune works good with the 262s, but you're going to find it running rich down low (like 10:1) and slightly lean up top. With a custom tune or even lemmiwinks/unisettings you'll notice a difference with just leaning the primary and adding a little fuel up top.


_Modified by MeCarTay at 1:07 AM 3-10-2009_


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*

Thanks very much MeCarTay for the info. I'll have to look into lemmiwinks. That would be effective on top of my current GIAC/VF stuff I assume, if I can figure it all out well. 
Need to get a VAG-COM cable for that too.. hehehe anyone want to get rid of one?


----------



## Dreyven (Dec 26, 2007)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

In need of some help guys. Basically I have someone on Vortex selling a Z-Eng ZR2 Supercharger. However the user said that it won't work for MKIV's and only on MKIII VR6's. I am aware that some questions were answered on here already for me but wanted more opinions. The user said he just doesn't want to screw anyone over and I appreciate the honesty but still wanted some more info cause it seems like a great deal. This is what he said in a reply below.
*"this superchager has its own oiling so it has no oils to connect to the motor also turbo would mount the same as the exhaust manifolds would be interchange able but this is a superchager and the way it the motor is setup on a mk4 the intake is on the opposite of the engine from the mk3, plus where and how this usprcharger mount to the engine, the mk4 has an engine mount of the passanger side of the engine where a mk3 does not, it is located behind the motor. Basically the engine mounts are different from mk3 to mk4 as well as the design of the intake manifold as they are on diffent sides of the engine. I have never seen one of these mounted to a mk4, I mean you could try it, but i would not gaurantee that is would work or mount up. anything is possible to fabricate is you have enought money"*
Anyone familiar with this kit and will it mount to the MKIV VR6 (I assume it would since the motors aren't so different but again I'm a noob at this).
What would I be looking at as far as having to clock the super (is this possible I know with turbo's it is) to position it to have the piping go around the front of the motor and then go back to the TB.
He also mentioned it has it's own oil supply. Any info on how this is setup? Independent oil cooler instead of going back to the pan?
I understand I have a lot of questions but I figured since people here seem so well rounded on this subject and are light years ahead of me in building anything I figured a noob like me could get some help. Hey everyone has to start somewhere. I appreciate any input on the subject and thanks in advance for any help you guys can provide me.
Was linked by someone on here for me. No pictures yet as the guy said his camera was busted. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4280067


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (Dreyven)*

The Z-Engineering kit will not work for a MK4. With enough money you could get one to work, but I would suggest running a Vortech unit as they are much more stout, with the exception being the V9 that is more prone to bearing failures.


----------



## VW Acolyte (Sep 23, 2004)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

ok, im saddened by the news that VF wont be doing SC's anymore







once they stop, somebody wioll have to start selling brakets and soem other stuff for them








hmmmmmmmmmm


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (VW Acolyte)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VW Acolyte* »_ok, im saddened by the news that VF wont be doing SC's anymore







once they stop, somebody wioll have to start selling brakets and soem other stuff for them








hmmmmmmmmmm


No worries


----------



## MR 2.GO (Apr 10, 2007)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*

Goin 2 order seals today for my v9.. Any one have pictures or links for a DIY any headup or advice would be appreciated.


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (VW Acolyte)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VW Acolyte* »_ok, im saddened by the news that VF wont be doing SC's anymore







once they stop, somebody wioll have to start selling brakets and soem other stuff for them








hmmmmmmmmmm


I'm done with VF personally...


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (farfromugen)*

Although Sean directed me to Vortech and Mariano at Vortech has been very helpful so far, VF started out of the gate great, then I felt like it was the shuffle off for the warranty claim.
Anyhow, I'm hoping to get the blower sent out soon for warranty repair. Might just go buy one of those rebuild kits from superchargerrebuild as my warranty is out next month.
So I'm kind of on the fence about VF but totally see how one would be done with them. 
We'll see how this all turns out.









Update: Sean has continued to follow and check with Vortech so I'm going to give them a plus in that department.
Mariano at Vortech just got me the RA# and has also been really helpful. I guess the only point left is to see how long this whole process takes. Thanks to all others' advice and help here.










_Modified by dasGolf01 at 11:39 AM 3-11-2009_


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

I won't get into details, but my last encounter left me feeling a bit deceived, and since everything has to be proprietary through them, it cost me money to find out I was correct to begin with...sounds confusing I know. It seems like if you drop the cash on their kit, they would be quick to let you know what you have...I remember once they withheld the injector size to someone on here...I mean, really...
On another note, I installed the 45deg fitting on my oil drain, went on with no hassle http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## VW Acolyte (Sep 23, 2004)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

how easy would it be to just get a charger like a V1 or 2 from Vortec themselves and build your own kit? with all the info on here and places like C2 etc, i would imagine the hardest thing to do would be to get a proper bracket made.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (VW Acolyte)*

the blower itself is way too expensive for what it is imo...new anyway. 
brackets are EASY to replicate. i was going to get some made up with a few small changes, but the market isnt there for it, and i wouldnt make enough profit to sell them individually. im just an enthusiast, not a shop.
reality is for 2k you can get a used it, put some time into it, and youll have an awesome and reliable kit.


----------



## gticarlos2003 (Jan 19, 2005)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

here is my setup, i dont have a boost gauge so i dont know how much psi im running.
v1 vortech s/c
c2 satage 1 software
#30 injectors
3.25 pulley

















and here is a pic of the car









will vf still going to be doing the maintenance on the chargers or no


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (gticarlos2003)*

The Coupe looks good


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (gticarlos2003)*

Intake manifold is awesome on your car! All around good looking car http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## gticarlos2003 (Jan 19, 2005)

*Re: (farfromugen)*

thanks, there is still a lil more work to be done in the car


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (farfromugen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *farfromugen* »_Other thing, has anyone with the MK3 kit replaced their catch can from VF with something more user friendly and retained the same location? I would like one that lets you see whats going on and sits at an appropriate angle so as to do its job correctly. _ My friend VF S/C'd R32 came with a nice bracket and screwed into the firewall. _Mine just kind of hangs out in front of the passenger side strut tower.









E, my kit only came with the can. Brandon and i fabbed up the bracketry. took about 6nuts, 6' of hose, 4 hose clamps, one roll of friction tape (love that stuff), 3-4' of heavy duty backstrapping, and a genius and his apprentice. we can whip something up for your car when i get mine back on the road.
on a related note, i ordered a new seal. ($35) it came in on friday and i can't get into the shop until tuesday night. hopefully have good news before next weekend. then i can work out my new suspension mods (







)and get realigned.


_Modified by dr. b at 12:14 PM 3-14-2009_


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (dr. b)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dr. b* »_
E, my kit only came with the can. Brandon and i fabbed up the bracketry. took about 6nuts, 6' of hose, 4 hose clamps, one roll of friction tape (love that stuff), 3-4' of heavy duty backstrapping, and a genius and his apprentice. we can whip something up for your car when i get mine back on the road.


haha, fooled me, looked like it came that way. I redid mine a while back if you remember, and ran it vent to atmosphere, however, I changed it back to VF spec after I got the SC back from rebuild. Maybe we can take a look, seems like I have the problem of it either sitting all crooked, or the 3/4" line kinking next to the intake...another issue to rework down the road


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

hey Deckmandubs are you ready for a V2?


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

Hey all picked up my gas today at murrays speed shop. $12.49 a gallon 116 octane







Dyno next saturday if not sooner


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (SUPERCHARGED-JETTA)*


_Quote, originally posted by *groupracer* »_hey Deckmandubs are you ready for a V2?

Ready whenever you are Evan http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Quote, originally posted by *SUPERCHARGED-JETTA* »_Hey all picked up my gas today at murrays speed shop. $12.49 a gallon 116 octane







Dyno next saturday if not sooner








 
Good luck Sam, looking forward to your new #'s


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (dr. b)*

Ok, so for all those doing the rebuilds on their chargers themselves. Use a small screw driver to unsure the seal sets properly around the shaft.








Be careful not to jab into the seal it self. 








Seal fully sealed into position.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (SUPERCHARGED-JETTA)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SUPERCHARGED-JETTA* »_Hey all picked up my gas today at murrays speed shop. $12.49 a gallon 116 octane







Dyno next saturday if not sooner









thats nuts. but hey, gotta pay to play. let us know how you do http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_Seal fully sealed into position. 









mine does not look like this. the seal was never set that far down into the plate. I have it set up even with the top of the plate right now. already have the new seal, so i'm going to press out the old one and stuff in a new one....then i'm going to make it look like the picture here. we really debated pushing it in this far when we installed it, but there was no one to ask on a sunday night in freakin indianapolis.








thanks tons for the help man. i can't wait to get this whole thing fixed and back on the road. my friends and i are convinced that i need the cog-drive setup to handle the abuse that i'm about to unleash on this car.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)




----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (dr. b)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dr. b* »_
mine does not look like this. the seal was never set that far down into the plate. I have it set up even with the top of the plate right now. already have the new seal, so i'm going to press out the old one and stuff in a new one....then i'm going to make it look like the picture here. we really debated pushing it in this far when we installed it, but there was no one to ask on a sunday night in freakin indianapolis.








thanks tons for the help man. i can't wait to get this whole thing fixed and back on the road. my friends and i are convinced that i need the cog-drive setup to handle the abuse that i'm about to unleash on this car.









V9 F-trim










_Modified by DeckManDubs at 3:07 PM 3-17-2009_


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

well, I ditched my VF GIAC tune today for C2's 30#. Find out if it makes any difference, have to wait until next week though. All my stuff came in from C2 today except the air filter (which is coming from K&N)

















_Modified by farfromugen at 1:15 PM 3-20-2009_


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (farfromugen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *farfromugen* »_well, I ditched my VF GIAC tune today for C2's 30#. Find out if it makes any difference, have to wait until next week though. All my stuff came in from C2 today except the air filter (which is coming from K&N)
















_Modified by farfromugen at 1:15 PM 3-20-2009_

it will make a world of difference http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (websaabn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *websaabn* »_
it will make a world of difference http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I do hope...its seems to not be as rich at idle, but that could be due in part to the SAI delete. I used tape to apply my old filter to the intake in order to test start it and move it back into its spot in the garage...so no definitive answer yet


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

Managed to get the blower out without even taking the bumper off.. wasn't sure I could pull that one off. And amusingly enough, the blower fits in a Vick's humidifier box with the packing for the humidifier, that was pretty funny. 
Sending it out Monday, hopefully it will come back before too long as I'm driving around an old Toyota now, though it is the Trueno body style, it's still amusing driving a carburetted car again.


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

takes 15 minutes to get it out with the bumper on. but you have to take it off to get it back on. Trust me on that one.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (dr. b)*

question for those running obd1 setups and C2 software:
ok, so i know that the ISV is required with the C2 software. Has anyone relocated it though? I am having a new charge pipe fabricated right now and it was said that it would be better that the ISV pipes into the system pre-charger? Anyone experimented with this at all?
I know it should still remain post MAF, but it could be pre charger as well, thereby not getting boosted.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_question for those running obd1 setups and C2 software:
ok, so i know that the ISV is required with the C2 software. Has anyone relocated it though? I am having a new charge pipe fabricated right now and it was said that it would be better that the ISV pipes into the system pre-charger? Anyone experimented with this at all?
I know it should still remain post MAF, but it could be pre charger as well, thereby not getting boosted.

you might have issued like the corrado g60 where you blow boost back through the Isv, i deleted it on the wifes car and it runs rich.


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_Sending it out Monday, hopefully it will come back before too long as I'm driving around an old Toyota now, though it is the Trueno body style, it's still amusing driving a carburetted car again.









Atleast its getting warmer and you won't have to worry about those wonderful coldstarts


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MeCarTay* »_
Atleast its getting warmer and you won't have to worry about those wonderful coldstarts
















You have that right, though it seems he put a cheap throttle cable on it heheh keeps slipping.
Anyone have the actual measurements on the V-9? I have it boxed up in a pretty decent sized box. Trying to look at my options for something smaller. 
12x12x6 ain't gonna cut it, is it?


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_
12x12x6 ain't gonna cut it, is it?









ehh sounds a bit small. I can't remember what size box I used, but make sure you use plenty of cushioning. I think I used about 15 feet of bubble wrap







Are you shipping it with the pulley on? Make sure if you are that it is WELL protected! They damage really easy in shipping.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_
You have that right, though it seems he put a cheap throttle cable on it heheh keeps slipping.
Anyone have the actual measurements on the V-9? I have it boxed up in a pretty decent sized box. Trying to look at my options for something smaller. 
12x12x6 ain't gonna cut it, is it?









Charger dimensions are 10.132x7.836x9" Make sure to have at least 2" on every dimension for packing.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

I'm still wondering about this ISV issue on OBD1 cars. where are people placing the ISV valve? in basically the stock location on the charge pipe, thereby feeding the valve boosted air? or are you relocating the ISV inlet bung to the air inlet pipe, post MAF, but pre charger?
i know that anything post MAF is all metered air, so it probably doesnt make that much difference one way or the other, it just seems as though if you place the ISV inlet bung in a location where it will not see boosted air, you will cut down drastically on the chance of boost leaks, etc. am I wrong?
can anyone post pictures of their OBD1 setups addressing this issue?
also, what oil pressures are people seeing normally? I am a little worried on my setup here too. I see ~30psi under idle and ~60psi under load. I have never seen it above 60psi. I thought that 12v VR6 engines were supposed to see about ~80psi in stock form








THANKS!


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

The isv goes in the stock location and the inlet side goes from the charge pipe between the charger and the throttle body to the ISV. You can delete the ISV and adjust the throttle body stop screw to maintain the proper idle.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

Yeah, I ended up using a good sized box with nearly a whole phone book of packing, some eggcrate style packing and then gloves, plastic, etc keeping all the ports sealed as well as a good wrap around the pulley.
Thanks folks, here's to hoping for a quick-ish turnaround.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_The isv goes in the stock location and the inlet side goes from the charge pipe between the charger and the throttle body to the ISV. You can delete the ISV and adjust the throttle body stop screw to maintain the proper idle. 

Thanks Deck.
I have been told previously that deleting the ISV is NOT a good idea. Did you do this on your corrado? If you did, what is the outcome? recommend or no?
what do you think of the oil pressures I'm seeing? Cause for concern? 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

did the same on a car i built for someone. just removed it and used the screw. its not perfect, but it works. i havent heard about any issues as of yet, as it left here without problems. 
might run a tad rich/lean at idle, but nothing serious i dont think.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

if my fabricator makes a charge pipe that eliminates any chance of boost leak (which is what he is setting out to do), wouldn't that be better than deleting it? I mean, it is there for a reason, right?
or is it basically impossible to keep it from leaking boost? if not from the inlet in the charge pipe, then the actual valve itself and the sound muffler thing, etc? And in this case it is better to just get rid of it?
anyone have any insight about my oil pressure question?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_
Thanks Deck.
I have been told previously that deleting the ISV is NOT a good idea. Did you do this on your corrado? If you did, what is the outcome? recommend or no?
what do you think of the oil pressures I'm seeing? Cause for concern? 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I have done over 50k with out an ISV, got rid of it entirely when I put the SRI on. No problems here. As for oil pressure, should be 30psi @ 2500rpms @ 160 for oil temp is what you should see with a VR6, if my memory serves me right. I see 2bar @ 220 F @ idle and 10bar @ 120 F @ idle. 1 Bar=14.7psi


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_
I have done over 50k with out an ISV, got rid of it entirely 

AMEN!!!! when i was OBD1, removing ISV changed my car for the BETTER!!!!!!


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

awesome, thanks for the info. seems as though my oil pressure is dead on then.
I have an external oil cooler with heat exchanger, I have yet to see above 200*F on it. I am seeing ~30psi @ idle and ~60psi under load with oil temps normally in the 180*F range.
If my fabricator has not yet created the ISV bung in the charge pipe, I will recommend that we delete it all together. I dont want ANY leaks!
if he has already created the bung, and I keep the ISV, how can I ensure that it is not leaking boost?
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_awesome, thanks for the info. seems as though my oil pressure is dead on then.
I have an external oil cooler with heat exchanger, I have yet to see above 200*F on it. I am seeing ~30psi @ idle and ~60psi under load with oil temps normally in the 180*F range.
If my fabricator has not yet created the ISV bung in the charge pipe, I will recommend that we delete it all together. I dont want ANY leaks!
if he has already created the bung, and I keep the ISV, how can I ensure that it is not leaking boost?
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Just make sure your hose clamps are tight.


----------



## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_ how can I ensure that it is not leaking boost?
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

IMO, ALLLLLLL isv's leak, they were the brainchild of hitler and satan.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*

so, really, my best bet is to get rid of the damn thing, eh?
I wonder why Jeff would have written out EGR and SAI, but kept ISV in the C2 tunes? it seems as though that is the main cause for problems, right there, not the other two.
i guess if he has already created the ISV bung in the charge pipe, I will tell him to patch it up! this is not a DailyDriver anyways, so i think to err on the side of no boost leaks with maybe a rougher / higher idle, is a good trade off.


----------



## mark2.0aba (Jan 20, 2008)

so i just bought a charger for my OBD1 dizzy vr and am wondering a few things. first i have been trying to find any info as to where i should put the MAF. some people have it in the charge pipe and others dont. what would happen if it was after the charger or do i NEED to put it before? where would be the best place to run a DV? 
i only bought the charger and brackets so everything else i have to make and figure out. TIA


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

I was told it would take '14 hrs' to write out the ISV. So my $1000 custom tune remains w/ CEL. & a few more codes that the standard chip didnt throw.
ISV's are not air tight- remove it, plug 1 end, blow through it, witness the leaks. Its not airtight under 'lung pressure', no where near sealed under boost.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (mark2.0aba)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mark2.0aba* »_so i just bought a charger for my OBD1 dizzy vr and am wondering a few things. first i have been trying to find any info as to where i should put the MAF. some people have it in the charge pipe and others dont. what would happen if it was after the charger or do i NEED to put it before? where would be the best place to run a DV? 
i only bought the charger and brackets so everything else i have to make and figure out. TIA

GIAC & C2 software require the MAF to be placed before the charger.
Even is the older systems/software where the MAF was post charger, it became a problem w/ turbulance/boost after 6psi


----------



## mark2.0aba (Jan 20, 2008)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

ok so MAF is gonna have to be placed before charger. thats gonna be a tight fit in a mk2. now the only way i see to run a intake tube is to remove the charcol canister(i think thats what its called) and run it down that hole. now where would the canister need to be relocated?


----------



## J.Q. Public (Jan 30, 2004)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_
Even is the older systems/software where the MAF was post charger, it became a problem w/ turbulance/boost after 6psi


This is not completely accurate. I ran OBD1 ATP 310cc software in my mk2 and ran 12psi without any issues. Car made 250whp and was driven 30k+ miles without any issues.


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

i just reinstalled my (now twice rebuilt) V9. It no longer blows hella oil out the air filter, but it was kind enough to put an inch of oil in the intercooler.
thoughts? anyone?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_ISV's are not air tight- remove it, plug 1 end, blow through it, witness the leaks. Its not airtight under 'lung pressure', no where near sealed under boost.


well, my charge pipe is finished, guess I was too late on the ball with this one. These guys are BT JDM tuners, and they "know" how to make fittings, etc. that are air tight, so I'm sure that where the ISV pipes into the charge pipe, it is air tight. I am not sure about the valve itself, and as you are saying, it seems as though they are generally leaky themselves. I guess I will attempt to have them perform a boost / Vacuum leak test and see what happens.
also, corradomagic, with all of your stalling issues that you had in the beginning that later turned out to be your cam positioning sensor: my car is stalling when coming to a stop as well. only once it is hot though. if it is still cold, it doesnt do it. i have stock cams so i dont think its the cam positioning sensor like on yours. do you think my leaky ISV could be the cause of this? I have already swapped in a new coolant temp sensor as well, thinking that could be responsible.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (dr. b)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dr. b* »_i just reinstalled my (now twice rebuilt) V9. It no longer blows hella oil out the air filter, but it was kind enough to put an inch of oil in the intercooler.
thoughts? anyone?

Pull the IC out, spray it our with carb clean then let dry and re install.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

i heard of a turbo diesel pickup super redline and destroy itself on a restart from oil in the intercooler, after some turbo work
to earlier post, i had no idea the idle valve wasn't "lung tight"
i've still got one on my na scir, maybe i should seal it up
my sig used to say: 
i can throw an isv 100'+
i haven't had a maf in 6 years so i don't know how far i can throw that
come to think of it, speed density only needs crank, cam, tps
my eng temp's on a 10k knob
i love obdI!


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_
Pull the IC out, spray it our with carb clean then let dry and re install.

i had the intercooler off and cleaned out prior to latest reinstallation of blower. literally, next to the car on it's end so it could drain/dry. i'm going to pull and drain it again, but i'm at a serious loss as to where this much oil is coming from. it seems like it'd be just about impossible to screw the seal up. i _know _i didn't tear or nick or damage the seal and i _know _it's seated where it should be.








aside from residual oil in the system(?), any other ideas? has my gearcase become porous and is just seeping oil thru it? (sarcastic and frustrated, not serious)


----------



## TaintedRide (Mar 31, 2006)

*Re: (dr. b)*

Im not sure if this is the right thread to post this in but I have been searching around for what other options there are for Supercharging our cars, I found out there are actually a few options but piecing together the kit will be expensive or need some custom fabrication for mounting brackets and a few other things. Im wondering why there is not very much information on the Procharger systems, the flow rates of these chargers were amazing, here is the spec sheet.
http://www.superchargersonline...?id=6
Compare the F-1 or the D-1SC both of those I believe will fit in the VR engine bay but making the brackets will be the hard part. Does anyone have any information about these, I have also seen the Rotrex kit but doesnt seem as available. Would these kits be a good answer to getting more HP out of the VRs similar numbers to out Turbo friends at least


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (TaintedRide)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TaintedRide* »_Im not sure if this is the right thread to post this in but I have been searching around for what other options there are for Supercharging our cars, I found out there are actually a few options but piecing together the kit will be expensive or need some custom fabrication for mounting brackets and a few other things. Im wondering why there is not very much information on the Procharger systems, the flow rates of these chargers were amazing, here is the spec sheet.
http://www.superchargersonline...?id=6
Compare the F-1 or the D-1SC both of those I believe will fit in the VR engine bay but making the brackets will be the hard part. Does anyone have any information about these, I have also seen the Rotrex kit but doesnt seem as available. Would these kits be a good answer to getting more HP out of the VRs similar numbers to out Turbo friends at least









The best option is converting a V1 S-trim to a V1 T-trim, gain 200cfm's and can be bolted to existing C2/AMS brackets.


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

Hey DMD,
if i buy a V1 or a V2 and a cog-drive setup from Verdict, are there any other pieces i'd need to change from v9 serp? trying to feel out my options if i can't resolve my v9 drama. i'm just thinking that i'd have more options with a v1 or v2 as my car progresses....and i could find one in much better shape than my v9 is in now.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (dr. b)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dr. b* »_Hey DMD,
if i buy a V1 or a V2 and a cog-drive setup from Verdict, are there any other pieces i'd need to change from v9 serp? trying to feel out my options if i can't resolve my v9 drama. i'm just thinking that i'd have more options with a v1 or v2 as my car progresses....and i could find one in much better shape than my v9 is in now.









With the cogged you would just need new software to compensate for the extra boost. Give Phil a ring @ Verdict and he can give you a low down on what the upgrade would consist of. In the long run it would be worth it without a doubt. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

^ Maybe you can start doing V9 "trade-ins" to upgrade







I would be in line


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (SUPERCHARGED-JETTA)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SUPERCHARGED-JETTA* »_Hey all picked up my gas today at murrays speed shop. $12.49 a gallon 116 octane







Dyno next saturday if not sooner









well ?


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*









Tifun is dog, and now his car is slow again. Sorry your reign would be so short lived. not low or fast. maybe you should sell that ("t-word") 4 cyl audi and get a vr vw.....then you could go low and fast. i can show you how.
The oil feed is feeding oil not only into the gearcase, but also down the boost feed (aerator) to the 'charge.' that is the source of my inch of oil in my intercooler.
DMD (or anyone else), how do i fix?


_Modified by dr. b at 3:33 PM 3-29-2009_


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

DMD, you have pm.


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*Re: (dr. b)*

What kind of check valve is this? something I can get at a hydraulic shop or similar? Maybe a race shop local????? Based off of everything in line with this chain of events, I beleive this to be the issue or why the oil is backcharging into the line. There doesn't seem to be any play










_Modified by dr. b at 11:31 PM 3-27-2009_


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (dr. b)*

Glad to talk to ya Dr.B, good to hear its sorted out now. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_
well ?

Update Everything went bad!!! Got to cft at noon and got the car on the dyno right away. We attempted to make a pull when all of the sudden the engine cuts off. Well we start trying to figure out what went wrong as we had no spark. We changed coil, msd box, ecu and nothing, at this point we had no more time on the dyno left as another car was to get done. I got the car home changed the distributor still nothing, and then I changed the ignition module and it fired up!!! It's always good to have another corrado to steal parts off of







So that was my wasted day on the dyno


----------



## Tifun (Mar 26, 2004)

*Re: (dr. b)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dr. b* »_i love beef

I didn't hear back from you on what we discussed earlier........yes no????


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (SUPERCHARGED-JETTA)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SUPERCHARGED-JETTA* »_
Update Everything went bad!!! Got to cft at noon and got the car on the dyno right away. We attempted to make a pull when all of the sudden the engine cuts off. Well we start trying to figure out what went wrong as we had no spark. We changed coil, msd box, ecu and nothing, at this point we had no more time on the dyno left as another car was to get done. I got the car home changed the distributor still nothing, and then I changed the ignition module and it fired up!!! It's always good to have another corrado to steal parts off of







So that was my wasted day on the dyno























That sucks, well at least you still have all the race fuel, to run when you hit the dyno the next time http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## VRClownCar (Apr 8, 2001)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_
That sucks, well at least you still have all the race fuel, to run when you hit the dyno the next time http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

not to mention the fact that the car still RUNS







it just got a little pissy on the dyno. The damage could have been worse. good luck when you get it back on the rollers.


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (VRClownCar)*

I ordered the ignition module and it should be here soon, I am on vacation this upcoming week and should be able to go during the week







Damn the luck


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*Re: (Tifun)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Tifun* »_
I didn't hear back from you on what we discussed earlier........do you want to make out, yes or no???? 


i love how you can change a quote to say nothing even remotely close to something the quoted would ever say.
regardless, the picture above of the clear tubing with oil in it is what _will _happen if the check valve for the boost is used for the oil feedline.
the car runs now and very well i might add.
i just need to have a 'discussion' with my fenders about my new drop


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*Re: (SUPERCHARGED-JETTA)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SUPERCHARGED-JETTA* »_I ordered the ignition module and it should be here soon, I am on vacation this upcoming week and should be able to go during the week







Damn the luck









funny how sometimes the smallest damned thing can jam you up and make you homicidal...then you figure it out and just go, "awwww ****."


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (dr. b)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dr. b* »_
funny how sometimes the smallest damned thing can jam you up and make you homicidal...then you figure it out and just go, "awwww ****."

such as:

_Quote, originally posted by *dr. b* »_
regardless, the picture above of the clear tubing with oil in it is what will happen if the check valve for the boost is used for the oil feedline.


----------



## Tifun (Mar 26, 2004)

*Re: (dr. b)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dr. b* »_
i love how you can change a quote to say nothing even remotely close to something the quoted would ever say.


Well....yes or no? Do you wanna make out? I'll show you Jasper, he's the big one on the right.


_Modified by Tifun at 5:19 PM 3-29-2009_


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*Re: (Tifun)*

off topic:
get out, turbo boy.
this is the supercharger only man thread.
on topic:
drove my car today for the first time in almost a month. runs awesome....except that the fenders are touching the tires. i figure that's worth -2 to -8 hp...at the wheels


----------



## Tifun (Mar 26, 2004)

*Re: (dr. b)*

jealousy


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (dr. b)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dr. b* »_
on topic:
drove my car today for the first time in almost a month. runs awesome....except that the fenders are touching the tires. i figure that's worth -2 to -8 hp...at the wheels









Congrats, glad to see you were able to straighten everything out.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*

this is going to be a long one, but I really need some insight into my problem:
When I got my first chip from C2 and replaced my 4bar fpr with a 3bar fpr my car was golden. It ran beautifully, had great throttle response, and never stalled. The idle was a bit wonky, but I chalked this up to the simple fact that there was now a large turbine attached to my crank, that may cause my engine to float a bit where it used to not








this golden era lasted for a week or so, until my radiator decided to start leaking from the entire length of the plastic sides. i was out meeting a friend for dinner, when i noticed the coolant light start flashing, so i pulled into a gas station to check it out.
now, this is where I may have made the first mistake: I left the car running and opened the coolant expansion tank. filled her up with water, replaced the cap, and within a minute or so, the car stalled. this is the first time that it had happened. after this, i could not get it to hold idle. so, i left foot braked the remaining distance to the restaurant, parked the car, and attempted to enjoy my meal. when i came out from dinner (maybe an hour+ later) the car started up and held idle. it was a bit rough, but it held. it held idle for the mile or so on the surface streets to the freeway, and obviously didnt die while on the freeway either.
when i got off the freeway, and came to a stop at the first traffic light, the car stalled. it would then no longer hold idle. I had to left foot brake the remainder of the distance home. it has been like that ever since.
so, it seems as though when the car is cold, it will hold idle. drive it for a period of time and get it thoroughly heated, and it will stall at idle. let it sit for a bit and it will be ok again until it heats up. you can also start to feel a change in the cars throttle response as it gets warmer. for instance, when you are on the freeway and it has heated up thoroughly, partial throttle response becomes extremely choppy, stutters, and creates small backfires. if you put in the clutch all the way, the car will stall. let the clutch back out, while still in gear, and the motor will kick back on and hold, but if you cut off the fuel again, it will stall again.
I have had some success with disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and resetting the ecu, but it generally starts stalling again quite quickly.
Things I have done to attempt to fix the problem:
1. obtained a new chip from C2 thinking maybe my chip was bad. no dice, same results
2. replaced the radiator, fans, expansion tank, tank cap, fan switch, all three sensors in the thermostat housing (i have a stock temp thermostat that is new as of the charger install), completely flushed the coolant system, and upgraded to G12 coolant.
it was thought that perhaps my coolant temp sensor was bad, thereby causing the car to run extremely rich, but the new sensor yields the same results.
i still think that it is a problem of fueling, or fuel pressure, as you can smell a change in the exhaust (gets really rich smelling) when it is about to start stalling.
i dont know why, but i feel as though whats happening is that over time, the car is building up fuel pressure and mapping out fuel usage, that is too great for it to actually handle when not at WOT, so that when you come back to idle, there is just more fuel than the car can deal with and it stalls (at WOT the car is a beast and definitely uses all that fuel) then, it is not until the pressure recedes that the engine can again function properly.
the 3 bar FPR I swapped in was used, so I just ordered another from USRT, thinking maybe the FPR is not holding the correct pressure, but this is probably a long shot.
anyone have any ideas?
























_Modified by Beastie97 at 2:25 PM 3-30-2009_


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

^ When were the maf and o2 sensors last replaced?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MeCarTay* »_^ When were the maf and o2 sensors last replaced?

never. both are 13+ yrs old. (1995) but why would the car be running great pre radiator fubar, and then stalling post?
How would the MAF and or O2 sensors have gotten spoiled when they were operating fine before?


_Modified by Beastie97 at 2:36 PM 3-30-2009_


----------



## all-starr-me (Jul 14, 2003)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

Clogged cat? blown headgasket?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (all-starr-me)*

headgasket is recently new (within the last few years). Cat is also original, I hadn't thought of that as a possibility.
any other ideas?
thanks for the suggestions guys.


----------



## WeeZFan69 (Aug 3, 2003)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

I have kind of a simple question I figured I'd ask here. If you put a smaller supercharger pulley on, will the motor make boost sooner? With my 6psi pulley I really don't see any boost until about 4 grand. It'd be nice to have a few psi down lower.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (WeeZFan69)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WeeZFan69* »_I have kind of a simple question I figured I'd ask here. If you put a smaller supercharger pulley on, will the motor make boost sooner? With my 6psi pulley I really don't see any boost until about 4 grand. It'd be nice to have a few psi down lower.

yes it will make boost sooner


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (websaabn)*

I installed a 2.5" C2 pulley for this reason (went with their software as well) I see 6-7 psi well before redline now (haven't played with it enough or maxed it out yet). You will need to change software from GIAC for sure though, GIAC is programmed right around the kit under strict parameters, any changes in boost and it will lean out. Also, you might need to buy 30# injectors if you are running Stg. 1


----------



## WeeZFan69 (Aug 3, 2003)

*Re: (farfromugen)*

I'm already running C2 software, with 36# injectors so I think I might just have to try out a c2 9 psi pulley myself. I have a 3 inch something on there now, its harly makes 6 at redline.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (WeeZFan69)*

3.12" should make 8-9psi iirc. check your belt/tension
famfromugen - how do you like the c2 setup?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

I have a 2.75" 8-rib from Vortech on mine, with C2 36# and 36# injectors, stock cams. I see about 10-11 psi at red line, about 9-10 at 4k
If you're going to spend the money on a new pulley and you already have 36# software and injectors, I would go with the 2.5" pulley. Just my 2 cents.
oh, and from corradomagic about pulley vs psi:
CorradoMagic: psi will depend on a few things, but in the c2 kits 3.12 = 6-8#
2.87 is 8-10#
2.75 is more ideal(9-11#). anything less will just slip more. 
2.5 is supposed to be 15# but more like 13# max and if no slip. max rating are at like 7Krpm.


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

Going to be back on the rollers friday got the ignition fixed and ready once again http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (SUPERCHARGED-JETTA)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SUPERCHARGED-JETTA* »_Going to be back on the rollers friday got the ignition fixed and ready once again http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Good luck http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

If you are talking a V1/V2 setup a 3.12" pulley should see 10-11psi at 7k and a 2.75" 13-14 psi. At least that is my experience with several different kits.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_
CorradoMagic: psi will depend on a few things, but in the c2 kits 3.12 = 6-8#
2.87 is 8-10#
2.75 is more ideal(9-11#). anything less will just slip more. 
2.5 is supposed to be 15# but more like 13# max and if no slip. max rating are at like 7Krpm.

2.87" here. gauge shows almost 14psi at redline, and the dyno read a true 12psi with a map sensor hooked up.
they tend to make a tad more than advertised, unless you have belt slip.
i made 3psi on the 3.12" til it got tightened up


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_
famfromugen - how do you like the c2 setup?

I really like it! Pulls harder and overall its pretty awesome! I am having an issue with the STFT, but, it is the same issue I had with the GIAC. I'm giving it a bit to see if it corrects itself (I have only put 40mi. on the new setup) seeing that I beleive the GIAC eventually "fixed" itself. Really drives me nuts, but doesn't make it undrivable. I think it may just be a small vacuum leak (going to replace the injector o rings soon).
On another note, is anyone running a 2 step box with no lift shift? I'm not going to drag the car, but they look pretty cool, mostly the no lift shift.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (farfromugen)*

I would still appreciate any ideas / help / suggestions as to what to check to solve my stalling issue.
cat is fine
maf appears to be fine
o2 sensor also appears to be fine


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

*Re: (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_I would still appreciate any ideas / help / suggestions as to what to check to solve my stalling issue. 

are you running a isv? i've had similar issues w/ isv failures. also check for vacuum leaks. I've had rubber fail and cause sporadic problems as the rubber heated up and expanded allowing the cracks to suck in air.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (lotar_6)*

with a 2.87 i see 12 psi @ redline


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (lotar_6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *lotar_6* »_
are you running a isv? i've had similar issues w/ isv failures. also check for vacuum leaks. I've had rubber fail and cause sporadic problems as the rubber heated up and expanded allowing the cracks to suck in air.

I am running an ISV. I do not think that is to blame. If the ISV were faulty, I would be having these same problems at startup as well, I would think.
My problem only begins when the car is thoroughly hot, like after driving for a good 15 minutes or so, and continues to get worse, the longer it is driven...
I also replaced nearly every vacuum line in the car when I installed the blower.
From what I have heard from other people, many of the problems I am experiencing could be attributed to a bad MAF. The only thing that throws it off is the fact that the car runs, idles, drives, etc just perfectly when it is still a bit cold.


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

^ your issue sounds kind of similar to mine. I'm OBD2, so no ISV, and like you, I have replaced all vacuum lines with the factory stuff. I'm curious to what you find out. I am lean at idle causing the engine to run lumpy (according to my wideband).


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

youre sure you coolant temp and air temp sensor are good? its the only thing i can think of besides the maf being related to the fact that its ok when cold, yet issues when warm


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (farfromugen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_youre sure you coolant temp and air temp sensor are good? its the only thing i can think of besides the maf being related to the fact that its ok when cold, yet issues when warm

well, there's a brand new coolant temp sensor installed in the t-stat housing. new as of last week. I also replaced the gauge sender.
where is the air temp sensor located?
MAF may indeed be bad, I don't know yet. I have not swapped in a new one.


_Quote, originally posted by *farfromugen* »_^ your issue sounds kind of similar to mine. I'm OBD2, so no ISV, and like you, I have replaced all vacuum lines with the factory stuff. I'm curious to what you find out. I am lean at idle causing the engine to run lumpy (according to my wideband).

dude, don't leave it all on my shoulders, I need help! Let's pool our resources here. Mine is absolutely perfect when cold tho (aside from some gear chatter from the charger until the oil has heated enough to smooth that out).


----------



## WeeZFan69 (Aug 3, 2003)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

I have another kind of dumb question. Do you hear belt slip?


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_aside from some gear chatter from the charger until the oil has heated enough to smooth that out.

Thats not normal







Check for bearing slop next time your blowers out. What oil weight?

Edit: Swap in a maf & o2 sensor. It does sound a lot like a cts because its acting up when its cold, but on an obd1 car that could be the o2 as well.



_Modified by MeCarTay at 7:33 PM 4-2-2009_


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

^ well, for the moment, I am waiting to see if the software adapts fully, I've only put 40 mi. on the C2 stuff, so it is a bit soon to freak out. I am also running cams & MSD, that might make a difference too. Mine is not so bad that it dies, just a frustrating idle where the enine struggles until STFT smooths it out to a 14.7, then it idles fine. I talked to Chris about it, and we are both waiting it out until it has some more milage on the chip. I put some BG44K through this tank just in case its a slight fuel injector issue. Fuel pressure is on spot, the only other thing I have thought of is the injector seals, I have had the injectors in/out twice without replacing the o rings. I could suppose that air could leak in around the injector enough to fool with the A/F until the computer compenates by dumping more fuel. This is where a full version of VAG COM could come in handy


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WeeZFan69* »_I have another kind of dumb question. Do you hear belt slip? 

I have not noticed any belt slip.


_Quote, originally posted by *MeCarTay* »_
Thats not normal







Check for bearing slop next time your blowers out. What oil weight?
Edit: Swap in a maf & o2 sensor. It does sound a lot like a cts because its acting up when its cold, but on an obd1 car that could be the o2 as well.

i believe 0w30 (or is it 40?







mobile1) once warm, it sounds perfect. no shaft play, no impeller wobble, it was very tight and solid, last time it was out, which was during install. I have put maybe 100 miles on it since charger install.
cts = coolant temp sensor? its brand new and no diff. with the new one in there. o2 sensor was unplugged for a 30 minute drive and acted the same as when it was plugged in.
o2 and MAF will be the next things I try, and THROTTLE's suggestion of air temp sensor.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

like i said, its possible, but by no means a definate. 
the maf uses a heat element to determine fueling based on air flow over the element. im thinking it may be that, but, id almost go for the o2 sensor first. 
like i said in the pm, air intake sensor, o2 sensor, maf. cheapest to most expensive(new anyway).


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_like i said, its possible, but by no means a definate. 
the maf uses a heat element to determine fueling based on air flow over the element. im thinking it may be that, but, id almost go for the o2 sensor first. 
like i said in the pm, air intake sensor, o2 sensor, maf. cheapest to most expensive(new anyway). 


yep thats my plan. MJM has the air temp sensor for 25 bux, so thats definitely a good place to start. then o2, then maf, one by one to see if anything changes.
thanks for the suggestions guys!


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

Ok guys it was a better day on the dyno but not as good as I hoped. Car is all over the place with the new C2 software I couldn't get her dialed in at all so best could do was just over 300 whp on the mustang dyno. The a/f is all over the place lean in some areas and rich in others. I brought the car home and went back to my old set up with the eip chip and the car runs So much better. Not bashing C2 at all as I just tried out this chip to see if I could get better results. Im going to run the car on this tune and see what the car will run http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (SUPERCHARGED-JETTA)*

sam - sent pm http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_
i believe 0w30 (or is it 40?







mobile1) once warm, it sounds perfect. no shaft play, no impeller wobble, it was very tight and solid, last time it was out, which was during install. I have put maybe 100 miles on it since charger install.

Try 15-50 Mobil 1 Synthetic, with 0-40/5-40 on start up the chargers tend to make even more noise. I have run 15-50 for years and for over 50k on my V9, 10k on 5-40 Synthetic. I found the 15-50 is much better for SC setups.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_
Try 15-50 Mobil 1 Synthetic, with 0-40/5-40 on start up the chargers tend to make even more noise. I have run 15-50 for years and for over 50k on my V9, 10k on 5-40 Synthetic. I found the 15-50 is much better for SC setups.

Thanks for the tip deck. I will do an oil change first thing with 15/50 mobil1 when I get the car back from the shop.


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

guys: I am having a hell of a time getting a 61" belt for my AMS setup. I'm looking for an 8rib. Does anyone have a part # for such a belt? I have had zero success at autozone, advance auto, and some other local shops.
tia


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (ThaCorradoKid)*

_Modified by DeckManDubs at 8:58 PM 4-6-2009_


----------



## erikhorn87 (Apr 28, 2007)

yo guys, so i'm considering on doing a S/C job on my VR
the only thing that concerns me is the beating that the engine will take.. i'm hoping to only use the car for fun after this done, but still it bothers me.
do you guys think that this is a right choice to do this job?
i've been looking at VF superchargers the kit is 3500 bucks.. for everything is it worth it..its only the stage 1


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (erikhorn87)*


_Quote, originally posted by *erikhorn87* »_yo guys, so i'm considering on doing a S/C job on my VR
the only thing that concerns me is the beating that the engine will take.. i'm hoping to only use the car for fun after this done, but still it bothers me.
do you guys think that this is a right choice to do this job?
i've been looking at VF superchargers the kit is 3500 bucks.. for everything is it worth it..its only the stage 1


















180k on mine and it takes all the abuse. Pick up a used AMS or C2 kit as they have the V1 or V2 chargers if you plan on running more than the stage 2...The VF stuff is really nice quality, but the weakness is the charger (V9). With upgraded bearings it will take 12psi all day, but no more than that. All depends on how far you want to go down the SC road. Best bet is to go take some rides in different supercharged setups and decide how much power you really want. Putting in a 3.94 or 4.24 with 8-12psi is a hell of a lot of fun, but wont strain the drivetrain or engine at all.


----------



## CorradoSLC (Jan 20, 2000)

*Re: (erikhorn87)*


_Quote, originally posted by *erikhorn87* »_yo guys, so i'm considering on doing a S/C job on my VR
the only thing that concerns me is the beating that the engine will take.. i'm hoping to only use the car for fun after this done, but still it bothers me.
do you guys think that this is a right choice to do this job?

All will depend on what condition your drivetrain is in prior to the S/C, how well it is maintained, and how you drive it. My '99 Ginster has had the S/C on it since ~2002 and I'm guessing 60-70k. No problems with it, but it's also not been abused and is a Eurotech setup using the V2, which seems to be more durable than the V9s. I also think that this setup has been reliable because the P.O. and I have been happy with 8-10 psi, haven't overcranked the belt tension, etc.
I agree that if you want to go S/C, it's hard to beat a used AMS/Eurotech kit for <$2k used.


----------



## erikhorn87 (Apr 28, 2007)

*Re: (CorradoSLC)*

well the engine i have for the most part is rebuilt from the ground up. i run mobile 1 synthetic every 3k, and i shift at like 3 grand just about every time....its got <100k on it..
so i don't feel it was beat that much, i think its out of a passet 
i had MMI concepts build it for me; if you guys have ever heard of them..

so S/C http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif i only want to run an 8psi pully on it; around 250hp is good enough to make my nuts go back into the seat


----------



## erikhorn87 (Apr 28, 2007)

oh and you guys don't get a check engine light with the mass fuel sensor or anything?
or does the chip you install take care of that? andddd is it better to put the sensor before the S/C or after?


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (erikhorn87)*


_Quote »_so S/C http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif i only want to run an 8psi pully on it; around 250hp is good enough to make my nuts go back into the seat

you think 8 psi is enough..until you get used to it and want MOAR!


----------



## erikhorn87 (Apr 28, 2007)

*Re: (mk4vrjtta)*

haha.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (erikhorn87)*

maf placement depends on the s/w you run


----------



## erikhorn87 (Apr 28, 2007)

*Re: (websaabn)*

yeahh, i just took notice to that when i was looking at pictures of different jobs


----------



## CorradoSLC (Jan 20, 2000)

*Re: (erikhorn87)*


_Quote, originally posted by *erikhorn87* »_oh and you guys don't get a check engine light with the mass fuel sensor or anything?
or does the chip you install take care of that? andddd is it better to put the sensor before the S/C or after?

The CEL was on when I first got the car 2 years ago, but went out shortly after and has stayed out until recently when I had a bad N80 valve. After replacing it, the light has stayed out.
Latest thinking on the MAF is to put it before the charger, but my old-school Eurotech setup works great. Again, I haven't tried to get more than 8-10 psi out of it, however.
I'd go with whatever setup you wind up buying. If you get an AMS/Eurotech kit, I'd at least try it out as-is before you swap software and MAF setups.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

Including the week it took for my cheaper shipping to get there, got the blower back, rebuilt under warranty in 2.5 weeks. Cheers to Vortech this time and to Mariano there for helping out and being spot on. Back in business now and happy as ever... now to continue on. Anyone have a 2.75 pulley for a V9 and possibly an idler they want to sell?


----------



## v-dubz4lyf (Jun 13, 2005)

hey guys i need some help with my 97 de...
i have the vf stage 2 kit fo it(obd2) and ever since i installed it ive been having problems...it hesitated under load and i keep getting cylinder 6 and 4 misfire codes...it doesnt do it all the time...
it kinda feels like theres no boost when the hesitation happens...ive ckecked and double checked everything. ive done every test on the the car as far as i no...i need help plsss lol i gotta go to the track asap


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *v-dubz4lyf* »_hey guys i need some help with my 97 de...
i have the vf stage 2 kit fo it(obd2) and ever since i installed it ive been having problems...it hesitated under load and i keep getting cylinder 6 and 4 misfire codes...it doesnt do it all the time...
it kinda feels like theres no boost when the hesitation happens...ive ckecked and double checked everything. ive done every test on the the car as far as i no...i need help plsss lol i gotta go to the track asap

Hows the condition of the plugs, wires and coil pack?


----------



## erikhorn87 (Apr 28, 2007)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*

the only thing that i could think of that would cause a miss fire, is bad coil pack, bad plug wires, or plugs.....
look at the wires and make sure they aren't rubbed anywhere


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *v-dubz4lyf* »_hey guys i need some help with my 97 de...
i have the vf stage 2 kit fo it(obd2) and ever since i installed it ive been having problems...it hesitated under load and i keep getting cylinder 6 and 4 misfire codes...it doesnt do it all the time...
it kinda feels like theres no boost when the hesitation happens...ive ckecked and double checked everything. ive done every test on the the car as far as i no...i need help plsss lol i gotta go to the track asap

what are the plugs gapped at?


----------



## v-dubz4lyf (Jun 13, 2005)

*Re: (mk4vrjtta)*

to be honest i dont remember. i put them in last summer but i got the gapping from my local vw performance shop when i bought the plugs...ive tried 2 diff kinds of plugs-iridium and ngk cold plus #7's-....ive tried a few diff coil packs/icm's...im currently running msd coils...and ive tried 2 sets of wires(mk4's and currently coustom wires for the msd coils)...
neways heres a pic of my setup







this is stage 1..i dont have any recent pics


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*

^^
Absolutely love your car man








Misfire codes, hmm. You've tried coils and wires. 
What are the plugs again? Run a NGKBKRE7 and try anywhere from a .022 to .028 gap. I always ran .028 and never had an issue. 
What octane gas are you running? Is there a MK4 HG installed? Ever try a top end cleaner like Seafoam, etc.? 
Sorry I can't help you more. I had a VF st.2 on a Corrado. Different animal than obd2.


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *v-dubz4lyf* »_to be honest i dont remember. i put them in last summer but i got the gapping from my local vw performance shop when i bought the plugs...ive tried 2 diff kinds of plugs-iridium and ngk cold plus #7's-....ive tried a few diff coil packs/icm's...im currently running msd coils...and ive tried 2 sets of wires(mk4's and currently coustom wires for the msd coils)...

Have you tried those plugs recently or last summer? If not its probably time to replace them. I'd go with what Steve recommended (NGKBKR7E gapped to .028).


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*

I run the 7's on my stage II mkIV and have replaced them once in the year or less that I've had the SC setup and have never had probs with them, great plugs. I have the 8mm MSD conversion plug wires, though and have definitely not had a prob with those either. Good plug choice.


----------



## VDuBJett92 (Apr 30, 2004)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

just curious what kind of exhaust is every1 runing? stock or aftermarket header?


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (VDuBJett92)*

^ Thermal R&D catback, 42DD test pipe, Bosal header. I'd like to change over to a 3" cat back just for sh!ts and giggles, but has to be custom made


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (farfromugen)*

the ngk bkr7 plugs need to be changed every 7 to 10,000 miles. search on google, its posted on most sites that sell them. i swapped mine out after 8k, and it ran much better.
exhaust - 3" downpipe back. custom made, with worked exhaust manifold/downpipe


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

stk DP, NSPD Gen 1 SS cat back.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_Anyone have a 2.75 pulley for a V9 and possibly an idler they want to sell?

I've got an almost brand new 2.75" pulley that I bought from Vortech directly. It's an 8 rib, which they all are unless you buy one of the two that VF sells, and has been pretty good.
I am going to dyno on the 25th of April, and if I don't like my numbers, I will want to swap to a 2.5"


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

goodluck on the dyno. any power goals?
im looking to get back onto the dyno as well, see where im at now. then in 2 months, see where its at on standalone.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_goodluck on the dyno. any power goals?
im looking to get back onto the dyno as well, see where im at now. then in 2 months, see where its at on standalone.

Well, this is, of course, all contingent on figuring out my stalling issue, but I will be swapping the MAF and ISV this weekend, so hopefully I will get it fixed.
I am on completely stock internals, with a Brospeed ceramic header and Brospeed 2.25" cat-back, V9-F and C2 36# tune with a 2.75" pulley. I will be happy with anything over 250whp for this setup. And then shortly after I make those numbers, I will be unhappy and want that 2.5" pulley








I really do not have any frame of reference for my power output, as Houston is a freaking desert when it comes to boosted mk3s. It doesn't feel like 250whp to me, but my buddy Doug who has a mk2 with a 24vT on Tech3 says it feels like 250 easy, so we'll see.
what standalone are you going with? I really want to hear about someones first hand experiences with one of these, as I am thinking about it for the long term for my setup:
http://www.lugtronic.com/


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

I'll be curious to see what you run...let us know when you get it on the dyno! I need to get mine on the dyno as well...I don't feel right paying to use one since we have one at our shop (school), I just never have the time to run it, and find another guy worthy to work the computer


----------



## kw_killer (Aug 14, 2004)

Well, I started talking in the 12v forum, but this thread seems a better bet to check out. I have the motor out on my mk IV 12v due to a bad rod bearing. ATM, car is bone stock. For power, I am looking at the 300+hp range, but still be able to run pump gas and be able to still cruise around all day.
I have decided that the VF eng kit would be the best bet. But am wondering what all I would nee? First off, can the intercooler be fitted with stock bumper? I have a rare option loadout and would like to keep the stock appearance. Also, what is the water/meth injection for, I assume it is to cool the intake, but is that not what the intercooler is for? And what is a recommended exhaust diameter for the output?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (kw_killer)*

for 300chp 12psi + Cams + some exhaust work. No IC needed.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

i agree with deckman. you do not need to intercool it. it benefits you if you race, or do a lot of quick runs on the highway(illegal).
i am going to run haltech e6x on my car. my friend matt also runs it, and has very good experiences with it.
turbodub on here runs the lugtronic. kevin black who designed it is an awesome tuner. now that he has a plug n play system, its well worth the money imo. having him tune would be ideal, but kind of out of the question for you since youre rather far from us.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

belt wrap question:
I have no idler and no AC, so currently my belt looks like this:








so it was suggested that i flop the belt to the other side of the alternator pulley, thereby giving more wrap around the charger pulley. Sounds good, BUT that would cause the alternator pulley to spin in a counter-clockwise direction, rather than a clockwise direction as it is supposed to:








Is this a problem???



_Modified by Beastie97 at 12:21 PM 4-17-2009_


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

you shouldnt spin the alternator backwards, Thats too much length of un'tensioned belt. It will flap @ higher rpm's. You need a single or dual idler. I'm surprised your alt is making proper volatge or you are not experiencing massive belt slip on charger pulley.


----------



## Flyweight (Jan 15, 2007)

*Re: (VDuBJett92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VDuBJett92* »_just curious what kind of exhaust is every1 runing? stock or aftermarket header? 

I am going to be running ported stock manifolds (from what I have read these pick up a decent amount of power on an NA set up), a TT downpipe expanded to 3" outlet, a 3" Eastern Metallic 200 cell cat and a Bola XR-1 muffler all running out the side of the car. I hope my ears don't bleed too much. I may need another resonator or muffler to quiet this thing.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Flyweight)*

^ that setup will be loud. sounds great, but loud. esp after a long drive. ive got a 3" downpipe back system and just 1 race muffler at the back.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

does anyone sell idler setups anymore, or are we basically at the mercy of the classifieds section?


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

reversing the alternator isn't a problem
it probably freaks out the brushes that have been going 1 way
i tried it and the alternator lost too much belt wrap to work, even during the day without lights, etc
our home made kits have an idler between the alt and sc


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

what cogged kits are available?
is gruven the only option?


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

Beastie97...you should look into the non a/c VF setup, it adds an idler pulley under the alternator that takes care of your issue. I think there was one in the classifieds the other day...


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_does anyone sell idler setups anymore, or are we basically at the mercy of the classifieds section?

basically at the mercy of the classifieds that i know of, unless you make one yourself...i came across mine on accident....im lucky....it does work good though!


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (farfromugen)*

Here you go, VF idler http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif : 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4252469


----------



## kw_killer (Aug 14, 2004)

Alright, this talk about belts, that is a unique, no AC setup, corret, if still running AC, there is no problem with the alt, I would assume. Also, as cars are DC, spinning the alternator the wrong way, will also mess up your current, it simply wouldn't work.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EL DRIFTO* »_what cogged kits are available?
is gruven the only option?

Gruven doesnt offer cogged kits. Chk with Verdict Motosports for the only retailed cogged system avail. Both for V9/VF systems, V1/2 based C2/Eurotech/AMS systems. 
say goodbye to belt slip/over tensioned belts & more...


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (farfromugen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *farfromugen* »_Here you go, VF idler http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif : 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4252469 

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I pm'd him.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

thanks guys
the big diff for me is my home made crap wont tighten past 7 psi
getting the sc to spin up to red should make a diff
after picking a race with the fastest wrx in wichita, i was testing a new fuel coctail on big I 70
i think my 6th cyl went lean again, at 129 psi fuel pres
i guess the 6th runs out first, since it's on the end of the fuel rail when the fmu is closes up...
i also tried 24% xylene, 37% gas, 37% e85 - coctail
xylene power, ethanol cool, spec grav is higher, but it's leaner?
xylene ruins everything if it goes a little lean
after street racing my vr 2 yrs ago, all summer on 5 cracked pistons,
the motor started overheating so bad, i had to unplug the 6th spark plug just to get it to my new address
the smoke out of the pcv was priceless, especially racing fox bodies!
so i had a vacation to put in my new junk yard motor (2 yrs ago)
it turn out ruined too
so i had a week to put pistons and rods from 3 other junk motors into my old block that had been sr for a year with swelling pisstons
science lab
i had 5 good pistons, a melted one came on a rod i bought to fix a prev leaking headgasket that hydrolocked my rod on restart (#1)
the melted piston got filed smooth, not much left, and got put into the only good bore in the block (#3 bore)
the only good piston (#3) from the old block got put into the #6 bore, that was utterly swollen in the middle of the bore, almost visible to the naked eye, imagine the rings changing size going up and down
the other 4 pistons, from the junkyard motor, that turned out to be bad went into the junk block
everything got new rings, new rod bolts, hg, period
on startup, it sounded like it wouldn't make it to the end of the driveway
the best piston in the #6 bore sounded like it was going to come out
something i liked people to hear before i handed them their ass
compression immediately dropped to 105 in #6, highest was in #3 @ 165, melted piston
this is why i'm convinced that under piston oilers seal the rings to the wall, almost ignoring bad rings when it comes to peak power
this car trapped at 107 for two years, eats stage II wrx, gto, etc for lunch on highway (passat)
20 miles into wot, hard brakes on the highway, pulling harder than ever on my coctail yesturday, quickly redlining 4th, just before 7k, loss of power, lots of smoke
oil temps stayed below 220
water started actually warming from the ic heat (got to 185 on wot)
not so convinced it went lean since i was near 3/4 the amount of power that boosted vrs take on the motor described^
i scored a low mile engine last year, been waiting since
it will be going in with 60 lb injectors for 7psi, e85/xylene, adjustable rrreg, 
then maybe 7 psi more boost









_Modified by EL DRIFTO at 3:19 PM 4-18-2009_
edit: only #6 is hurt btw

_Modified by EL DRIFTO at 3:39 PM 4-18-2009_
wow after going out and looking at test samples, no harm to rubber but what a major water/oil scenaio with the failed e85/xylene mix
(gas and a little atf too)
a capful of atf per gallon of xylene as lubricant - b4
the atf doesn't mix with e at all, so now i'm gonna have to drain it 
since old 2 cycle/e 85 test samples glued to the tank in 6 months b4
will be all e85 now, instead of a blend i ran for my oe injectors
now i know how xylene and e85 mix


_Modified by EL DRIFTO at 6:25 PM 4-18-2009_


----------



## kw_killer (Aug 14, 2004)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

XS, yeah, I thought that 5 minutes after I posted it. Brain shorted on me.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (Flyweight)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Flyweight* »_
I am going to be running ported stock manifolds (from what I have read these pick up a decent amount of power on an NA set up), a TT downpipe expanded to 3" outlet, a 3" Eastern Metallic 200 cell cat and a Bola XR-1 muffler all running out the side of the car. I hope my ears don't bleed too much. I may need another resonator or muffler to quiet this thing. 

thats almost the same setup i run, it drones a little bit but sounds mean as hell. i am running ported manifolds, a dual 2 inch downpipe with a 3 inch collector and magniflo high flo spun cat, with borla xr1 muffler. you can kinda hear it in this video twords the end, the in car shot was before the 3 inch 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GydPoYZwbDk


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (websaabn)*


----------



## WeeZFan69 (Aug 3, 2003)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

Put the VR on the dyno Saturday.
Its a V9, running a 3.25" pulley(6psi)
The motor is 11:1 comp
Has 262's a mild port and polish
Ported manifolds, stock DP to full tt2.5 from dp back
Its running on C2 36# software.
Have to post the kinda blury dyno videos
3rd gear pull http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yrdzrWIcIr4
4th gear pull http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oL3_Hr3epT4
Made 220whp and 190tq. 
How are those numbers for 6psi? Think 9psi would get me to 250whp?


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (WeeZFan69)*

^ Congrats. From what we've seen with the V9 you'll gain another 10whp for every PSI increment you go up, so 245-250 wouldn't be out of the question for 9 PSI.


----------



## kw_killer (Aug 14, 2004)

wouldn't you start getting detonation problems with the 9psi and 11:1? will need some pretty good fuel or drop the compression a bit.


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (kw_killer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kw_killer* »_wouldn't you start getting detonation problems with the 9psi and 11:1? will need some pretty good fuel or drop the compression a bit.

Its higher, but he'll be fine at that level. 
Groupracer's 12v mk4 was running stock compression (10.5:1) @ 13psi on his blower and didn't have any detonation. On 12psi and a tweaked C2 36lb tune it made 313whp on pump gas with 262s and a Schimmel SRI.


_Modified by MeCarTay at 1:44 AM 4-20-2009_


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*

"frankenstein" the 330 whp other homemade sc kit here
10:1, 12 psi, pump gas, tt na chip tune
three dynos in a row, no cool down, exact #'s
simply put the mk4 gasket on, 10.5:1
it won't run on pump gas now, 
motronic can only pull 12 degrees
since 12 degrees isn't enough, it just acts like it's missing, 
since shutting the spark off would cause dieseling with 10.5 wot anyway
he came over with xylene and a smile the other day, acting like he'd discovered something
since he doesn't want it on xylene, e85 or anything for that matter, back to 10:1...
lets way overgeneralize here
1 lb of boost need 1 octane
1 lb of boost need 1 degree of timing pulled
7 degrees of timing = 7% power = 7 more octane, na even
getting 71c thermostat will buy you 2 pts
some people's cars are high octane year round
i drove 60 miles round trip daily for a couple of years in a 11.5, 15 psi, aba, 25% xylene mix, grand national guys showed me that
during the same period, my old room mates car was race gas always
i personally think "frank" should stay 10.5, then e85 but he's going back to 10.0, so fuel is what to ask yourself
anyway, to play, i'll be going down the street to KCIR to get some times, $10 is cheaper than a dyno
since the car is blown up now, the only slip i have was before i added some fuel pumps at 18volts, to go with my oe injectors last year, so
14.5 @ 100 mph is where i'm starting
i'm hoping for 107 trap speed when i get 60 lb injectors @ 7 psi, e85
then God willing, mo boos


----------



## WeeZFan69 (Aug 3, 2003)

*Re: (kw_killer)*

Forgot to mention the car has a water/meth injection. It takes care of it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif And if you didnt know how to drive the car it probably would detonate. I try and avoid low revs full throttle.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (WeeZFan69)*

e85 does the same thing meth does
meth doesn't help e at all...
anyway to overgeneralize again, the torque peak, around 5k indicates volumetric eff peak there, the most air in the cylinder, that's the point where timing should be pulled the most, and detonation is the most likely, low revs , centrifugal sc, should be out of allot of boost or volumetric eff
low revs may be where your meth isn't working
if you can't log, it'll feel like it's pulling timing, if it doesn't have to pull so much it audibly knocks
now it sounds like i'm bashing meth - from independence mo!!!
hhahaha - indepedence is know as the world's meth capital here
but no, meth aint and couldn't help e85, but go buy all that shiz instead of figuring out 20% more fuel, 30% if specific gravity illudes you too


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

still looking for an idler if anyone has a line on one. The other one that farfromugen posted is gone already...


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

meth tends to make the car run rich as well, keep that in mind. on the 3 meth cars ive built, all run a tad rich. so check your nozzle size, and figure out what works best.
if youre having issues with 10.5:1 CR on 12psi, something else must be up. I saw 14psi with the same compression, and have zero issues on pump fuel and big cams.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

thanks mike
dave, frank's owner, also said it was pumping 225 psi on the compression tester, doesn't that sound higher than 10.5?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

yeah, in a way it does. but i just thought about what you posted, and forgot that you said TT NA chip....so, that right there could be the biggest issue. 
NA chips have some seriously advanced timing to provide more power for the NA motors. obviously our chips are slightly less aggressive timing to provide a safe enviroment for boost.


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_still looking for an idler if anyone has a line on one. The other one that farfromugen posted is gone already...

sorry man, that sucks...if it comes down to it I think VF sells that idler separately...


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (farfromugen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *farfromugen* »_
sorry man, that sucks...if it comes down to it I think VF sells that idler separately...

yeah, no doubt for something like $500.00 though...







stupid overpriced VF...


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

now we're talking
i assume a sc 105 octane timing map looks...
like the na one i use with 105 e
with my tune nestled up against the knock sensor, it's always looking for more timing than normal, knock sensor protected, like motronic is sitting next to me with a laptop - my poor hg
e actually needs a bit more timing with slower burn
lots of folks on the ko3 forum have played with e
fwiw:
frank has a sc1 procharger, which proved more area under the curve than the sc2
the torquey sc1 makes up for the vr's lack of torque, in their setup
my car has a p600 (huge), worse torque than sc2, my car looses drag races, unless it's on the highway...
edit:
i guess what i'm trying to say is that boost, temps, octane, comp, etc all affect the amount of timing you can get away with
the sickest motors have the sickest maps cause they're eff
if you keep the hot na map and increase octane, lower temps, etc to match the amount of boost, lb per point, you'll have the grenade setup


_Modified by EL DRIFTO at 11:20 PM 4-20-2009_


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

well, I don't know if it's going to be accurate (we'll see once VF confirms my order) but VF is selling the AC delete kit, with the belt for $100.00 right now.
If you go on their website, it will be listed at $200.00, but add it to the cart and checkout with PayPal and the price is listed at $100.00
I'll update when I get confirmation, but this may help some people out on here. like me...


----------



## MexicanPsycho (Apr 10, 2004)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

Hey guys I recently picked up this kit and need to know what size belt to run? 2.75 pulley and no ac


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_ but VF is selling the AC delete kit, with the belt for $100.00 right now.


Well hey, maybe it turned out for the better that the other one was sold!
I think I figured a bit out with the trouble I have been having. Quick recap, VF kit, C2 30# chip, 4" MAF, 2.5" pulley...car runs great, but has a hard time running stoich at idle for about the first 15-20 seconds after coming to a stop. It looks to be MAF related...VAGCOM shows the MAF reading around 2.9 g/s during good idle. When coming to a stop to return idle, MAF reading fluctuates between 3.9-5 g/s (@ 750 rpm), TB is steady, A/F reads 18:1+, when the MAF comes back down to around 3 g/s it has a stoich smooth idle.
I unplugged the MAF and restarted the car, idles MUCH better with no lean idle. I read this as a turbulence issue, sound right? MAF too close to the SC...all that jazz. Question is, how am I going to deal with it? The MAF is as far away as it can be without the filter touching the ground. I don't see a good way to get a 90* on it. I know a lot of Corrado guys have had this issue, but not many MK3 GTI/Jetta guys. Is it possible I have a bad MAF? I tried swapping it with another used MAF I had laying around and it reacted the same way (no guarantees on if it is a good part either). 
Any input would be awesome http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (MexicanPsycho)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MexicanPsycho* »_Hey guys I recently picked up this kit and need to know what size belt to run? 2.75 pulley and no ac

61" is the length with air condition. 57.5" would be in the ballpark of what you'd need.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *farfromugen* »_
Is it possible I have a bad MAF? I tried swapping it with another used MAF I had laying around and it reacted the same way (no guarantees on if it is a good part either). 


did you reset your ECU after you swapped the alternate MAF in? It may still be running on the previous maps if you haven't reset.
also, VF contacted me back and said that it was a mistake with PayPal and that the actual price is $200 + $20 for shipping. That's a lot of money for a piece of aluminum with a pulley on it.


_Quote, originally posted by *MeCarTay* »_
61" is the length with air condition. 57.5" would be in the ballpark of what you'd need.

I have a V9-F with a 2.75" pulley and no A/C, but I also do not have an idler. My belt length is 53" I don't know if that helps you out at all as you have a V1 and an idler...


_Modified by Beastie97 at 10:03 AM 4-22-2009_


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_
did you reset your ECU after you swapped the alternate MAF in? It may still be running on the previous maps if you haven't reset.


yeah...I didn't reset it. The second MAF is my old one, I replaced it with the one I had been running. I don't really know that either one is bad...however, I don't know that either one is good. The one I had been running came off of a good running NA car, though it had somewhere around 200k miles on it








I sent you an IM too BTW.
Does a MAF ever go partially bad? Does it suddenly get spooked easier? Thats what I don't know...how can it read fine most of the time and only read falsely for 20-30 seconds after coming off load. It has done something similar to this even while running all VF/GIAC software, just seems to do it more with C2 stuff. Only thing I can think of is the lack of an airflow corrector that the stock MAF housing has and the 95mm C2 one lacks.


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 4, 2009)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

<<<what standalone are you going with? I really want to hear about someones first hand experiences with one of these, as I am thinking about it for the long term for my setup:
http://www.lugtronic.com/>>> 
<<<turbodub on here runs the lugtronic. kevin black who designed it is an awesome tuner. now that he has a plug n play system, its well worth the money imo. having him tune would be ideal, but kind of out of the question for you since youre rather far from us.>>>

- Hey guys. The Lugtronic's onboard wideband controller and excellent datalogging make it very easy to tune. I have tuned turbo cars to 22psi over the internet. We simply trade datalogs and maps. 
I have very good basemaps for the Siemens 630cc injectors, and I can work with you on any injectors you might have.
The onboard 4 bar MAP sensor means goodbye to MAF problems, and you can run your intake piping how you want it. 
Let me know what I can do for your projects.
Kevin 



_Modified by [email protected] at 12:31 AM 4-23-2009_


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ([email protected])*

^ I'd love to go this route...however money is preventing me from doing it right now.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (farfromugen)*

For those of you who are obd1:
Are you running an ISV? If not, did you bypass the ISV? Convert to obd2? I am wanting to delete my ISV, but I don't know what to use to block off the nipple on the TB. Any suggestions?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_For those of you who are obd1:
Are you running an ISV? If not, did you bypass the ISV? Convert to obd2? I am wanting to delete my ISV, but I don't know what to use to block off the nipple on the TB. Any suggestions?

Shot ya a PM


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_
Shot ya a PM

Thanks for all your help Deck.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_For those of you who are obd1:
Are you running an ISV? If not, did you bypass the ISV? Convert to obd2? I am wanting to delete my ISV, but I don't know what to use to block off the nipple on the TB. Any suggestions?

mine ran best with the ISV connected, but unplugged. Cold starts will require a 20 sec feathering for idel to adapt but after that, your good. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
You can also:
- set idle screw/plate & allow air bypass
- run a vacuum line w/ check valve


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_
- run a vacuum line w/ check valve









My plan is to cap off the ISV bung on my charge pipe, delete the ISV and tubing, run a 3/4" heater hose off the ISV nipple on the Intake Mani. with a 3/4" plug hose clamped in to the end of it, and connect my diverter valve and boost gauge tubing to the brake booster, thereby deleting the vacuum line going from that spot to the ISV.
will this not work? Here is a pic of my setup:








so, that red vacuum line will be deleted completely, and my DV and Boost gauge will connect where it had previously (the DV is there already, I am going to move my boost gauge from the FPR to this location).


----------



## jchn_smith (Apr 22, 2009)

i have a 2.8 vr6 obd2 with a v9 with 13psi pully red injectors 9:1 compression and a charge cooler








it made got 273hp at stage 2 what sort of figures do you guys think i will be looking at when i get it mapped this time 
i might not bother if it isnt goin to make much more as its also getting converted to haldex so it mite end up feeling slower with the power im gona loose the the 4 wheel drive
also what boost would be generated at 65K RPM on a v9 standard trim



_Modified by jchn_smith at 9:31 AM 4-24-2009_


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (jchn_smith)*

someone on here made 313whp on the v9 unit, just look back a few pages. deckmandubs or mecartay can also chime in.
also, vortechs website has the calculator to figure out what psi and rpms youll be at, etc.

Kevin - thanks for chiming in and adding that info. thats a pretty simple way to do things http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
if i didnt have haltech sitting in my garage, id be all over your setup


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

9.0:1 compression is going to hurt the #'s due to running a 13psi pulley will most likely get you ~8-10psi with the pressure drop. Larrys (LSinNV) VF built V2 powered MK4 12v made like 298 @ 8psi (14psi on stock compression) running a 8.0:1 HG spacer from what I remember. groupracers MK4 12v made 313whp on 12psi with the stock Mk4 compression (10.1:1 I believe) non intercooled with Autotech 262 cams. 



_Modified by DeckManDubs at 4:26 PM 4-25-2009_


----------



## jchn_smith (Apr 22, 2009)

ah cool that should be enough to over come the power im gona loose through driving the rears to
ah n iv gota say you guys over water seem to have a much more freindly forum than most of ours in the uk
would love the cogged setup but its mega money do they ever come up second hand
ah that sucks i was told i would have to drop my comp to run 13psi realy dont fancy taking the spacer back out is there anyother way of get 15psi without a cogged setup
could i use a larger crank pully to increase the belt speed so i dont need to use a tiny pully


_Modified by jchn_smith at 12:39 PM 4-24-2009_


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (jchn_smith)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jchn_smith* »_ah cool that should be enough to over come the power im gona loose through driving the rears to
ah n iv gota say you guys over water seem to have a much more freindly forum than most of ours in the uk
would love the cogged setup but its mega money do they ever come up second hand
ah that sucks i was told i would have to drop my comp to run 13psi realy dont fancy taking the spacer back out is there anyother way of get 15psi without a cogged setup
could i use a larger crank pulley to increase the belt speed so i dont need to use a tiny pulley

_Modified by jchn_smith at 12:39 PM 4-24-2009_

Well, in order to get 15psi you would need a larger blower like the V1 or P1SC, 1000-1200 CFM range. I would also suggest to put ABEC-9 bearings in your V9 as running a 13psi pulley will cause the unit to fail with the standard bearings as the V9 has a max rpm of 53k and you are most likely running ~ 60k @ 7000 rpms. Or you could run a bit larger pulley on the charger, say a 10-11psi pulley to keep the speed down, so not to kill your unit. 
To give you an idea this is the setup I am finishing now on my Corrado
Engine
2.8L 12v VR6 Dizzy
Engine Management
034 Stage IIc Unit
Fueling
Walbro 255lph inline Fuel Pump
Aeromotive adjustable FPR
Seimans 630cc/min - High Impedance Injectors
Cylinder Head
Port matched intake
260-264 FST Cams .440" Lift, 118 duration (Hybrids)
Supertech Valve springs
Block
9.4:1 Schimmel head gasket spacer
Intake
Ported TB
Schimmel SRI
Exhaust
TT-Down Pipe
2.5" Test Pipe
Electronic Cut-Out
Supercharger
V1 S-trim (hybrid impeller) w/ABEC-9 bearings, 65k Max speed
Target Boost : 17-19psi
Intercooler
Schimmel Air/Water Kit


----------



## jchn_smith (Apr 22, 2009)

were can i get ABEC-9 bearing and iv never seen a v1 in the uk dont know if anyone imports them 
whats p1sc iv never herd of them
whats your cogged setup like just realised your running it is it worth it


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (jchn_smith)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jchn_smith* »_were can i get ABEC-9 bearing and iv never seen a v1 in the uk dont know if anyone imports them 
whats p1sc iv never herd of them
whats your cogged setup like just realised your running it is it worth it


http://www.superchargerrebuilds.com for the ABEC-9 bearings.
A V1 charger was mainly used on AMS/C2/Eurotech kits. But none of these guys do anything with superchargers anymore so its finding a used kit these days off the vortex as many ditch them to go turbo to satisfy their power cravings. 
I love my cogged setup, but thats mostly because I designed and built it and proved the setups out. 
Keith "CorradoMagic" and Evan "groupracer" I am sure will chime in on their setups that myself and Phil built for them. 
They tend to be a bit loud, but these are of my car last year.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkmxOJmfXWg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oC0xHYAcCng
http://s24.photobucket.com/alb...i.flv



_Modified by DeckManDubs at 5:29 PM 4-24-2009_


----------



## jchn_smith (Apr 22, 2009)

i just dont fancy getting screwed by customs they would rob me for the charger and with the pully setup, its a decent price for they pully setup but buy the time i pay shipping and import dutys it will probly cost more than i payed for my car lol


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (jchn_smith)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jchn_smith* »_i just dont fancy getting screwed by customs they would rob me for the charger and with the pully setup, its a decent price for they pully setup but buy the time i pay shipping and import dutys it will probly cost more than i payed for my car lol

Do you still get hit if marked as a "gift"?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

I've heard that sometimes you can get away with marking it as
"personal belongings, no commercial value"
as in you are shipping something of yours, that you already owned, to yourself, just in another location.
the only problem with doing any of these things to attempt to avoid paying customs tax, is that you can then also not insure the shipment (insuring it implies value), so if something happens, you are out of luck.


----------



## jchn_smith (Apr 22, 2009)

not sure but customs kept my intercooler pipes for 3weeks then charger me £35 the last time i got something posted and they were only worth £110 so thats like 1/3 of its value 
so if that happens with the pullys they could charge me £400 or something


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (jchn_smith)*

my homemade sc bracket is at it's limit of belt tension ability
i'll have to start from scratch to get more belt tension or a cogged setup
does anyone have an extra sc bracket they don't need so i could start from their scratch instead of mine?


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

So this is what she looks like right now.. (photographer did an HDR shot thing, I'm not photography proficient so I'm not sure I used that right.)
Anyhow, once I get the money, C2 fueling/software will be going in..


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

FYI, ready made charger project inmy sig


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_So this is what she looks like right now.. (photographer did an HDR shot thing, I'm not photography proficient so I'm not sure I used that right.)
Anyhow, once I get the money, C2 fueling/software will be going in..









Looks good http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Here is an extra bracket I have laying around.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4334216


----------



## WeeZFan69 (Aug 3, 2003)

*Re: (littlenr)*

How much psi does a 2.62" pulley usually make on a V9?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (WeeZFan69)*

I have a 2.5" pulley on my v9 and I see 12psi at the manifold on a intercooled set up.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (littlenr)*

Here's my dyno results:
















I was running the "correct" 3 bar fpr in run 1 and I swapped in a 4 bar FPR for runs 2 and 3 to see if I could get the A/F looking better. It was better, but still not very good.
Any ideas from this? This sh_t is extremely un-kosher.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_Here's my dyno results:
















I was running the "correct" 3 bar fpr in run 1 and I swapped in a 4 bar FPR for runs 2 and 3 to see if I could get the A/F looking better. It was better, but still not very good.
Any ideas from this? This sh_t is extremely un-kosher.

whats done to the car ? what psi ?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (websaabn)*

2nd and 3rd runs the fueling looks spot on, perhaps a bit rich still but not by much. Are you running an IC? What head gasket do you have in the car?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *websaabn* »_
whats done to the car ? what psi ?

The car is a bone stock 1995 obd1, with Bosal ceramic headers, Bosal 2.25" cat-back, lightened flywheel, V9-F, C2 36#, no idler, 2.75" pulley, NON intercooled. I see max peak of 11psi at red line.


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_2nd and 3rd runs the fueling looks spot on, perhaps a bit rich still but not by much. Are you running an IC? What head gasket do you have in the car?

non-intercooled, stock headgasket.
I have not done a compression test, but I don't think I have blow-by. I inspected the charge pipe after the dyno to see if I was leaking oil from the charger, but it was bone dry...
also, someone in my other thread had suggested double checking my ECU to make sure it was one of the 2 supported by C2 software. It is, so that theory is out as well.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

Check the ECU #, if that proves to be fine then I would say the car might be pulling timing to prevent detonation. The holes @ 4800-4900 and then again at 5500, would suggest that or bad plugs.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_Check the ECU #, if that proves to be fine then I would say the car might be pulling timing to prevent detonation. The holes @ 4800-4900 and then again at 5500, would suggest that or bad plugs.

ECU is an EA, so that's kosher.
Plugs were replaced just before the dyno. The previous plugs had maybe 500 miles on them and were completely fouled...
my buddy Doug keeps telling me that an SAFC is the way to go, would that be able to correct the timing issue as we would be able to give it more gas in those spots to prevent detonation?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

You have enough fuel with the 4 bar FPR, that is what I ran my car at with the C2 fueling. Your fuel is spot on in the 3rd run, however you could have had belt slip, that would could be the issue.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_however you could have had belt slip, that would could be the issue. 

VF idler setup is on order right now. 
I changed over to the 3 bar FPR as per Jeff's instructions. I was having MASSIVE partial throttle hiccuping with the 4bar installed. When I changed over to the 3 bar, that all went away and the car was running perfectly (so it seemed). Then the radiator blew and the stalling issue started. The car has never seemed any faster than it does right now though, so I'm assuming that in actuality, it has never been running right. I have to assume that with no belt slip and proper tuning, I am capable of making AT LEAST 250whp on my setup.


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

were you monitoring boost during those runs? that would be a sure fire way to know if you were slipping...


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*Re: (ThaCorradoKid)*

Eric (farfromugen)
see if you can find 'air straighteners' like what's in the original MAF housing. the grating that's tall enough to actually straighten out the air flow.
also, i just put on a K&N dry-charger. seems to help, except that i have the whole chamber that the air intake pulls from. i put mine on to help with the water being sucked up by the intake and getting allover my MAF sensor and ruiningmy life.
long story short, it seems you need to basically lengthen your intake (pre or post MAF) to help reduce erratic air-flow around the MAF. i know how much fun i had last year when my air filter was exposed to different air pressures from sticking half outta my car.....truly awesome at WOT, terrible leading to failure at part throttle. it's one of the things i'm working on all the time.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (ThaCorradoKid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ThaCorradoKid* »_were you monitoring boost during those runs? that would be a sure fire way to know if you were slipping...

nope, shop guy was doing the runs. that and my boost gauge is busted... :facepalm:


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (dr. b)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dr. b* »_Eric (farfromugen)
see if you can find 'air straighteners' like what's in the original MAF housing. the grating that's tall enough to actually straighten out the air flow.
long story short, it seems you need to basically lengthen your intake (pre or post MAF) to help reduce erratic air-flow around the MAF. 

I'm with ya on both of these ideas, however, other than a unit AEM makes for the Mazda 6, I cannot find any "air straighteners". I could mock one up, but, I'm not too sure I want to just stick something in the intake pre SC








I would like to lengthen the intake, but I'm not sure where to go with it. Obviously it cannot go down any further without dragging on the ground. I don't see how it can bend it and take it towards the front of the vehicle. If anyone has a good picture of a fab up that they did, shoot me an IM or post it up. I really need some inspiration


----------



## v-dubz4lyf (Jun 13, 2005)

*Re: (slc92)*

sorry i took so long to reply guys...yes i have ngk 7's..they have like 5000 km's on them...i got the car dynod 3 weeks ago and after double checking the timing i came to the conclusion that its the tune thats out of wack...anybody els have a problem with the vf tuning??...thanks


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *v-dubz4lyf* »_anybody else have a problem with the vf tuning??...thanks 

FYI: GIAC/VF doesn't tune for cams.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MeCarTay* »_
FYI: GIAC/VF doesn't tune for cams.

thats what i heard too...but my wideband reads like high 11's at WOT in the upper rpms...


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*Re: (farfromugen)*

stole these photo's from somewhere...this thread i thought. won't keep your enine bay quite so sparkly, but an idea....or an idea to build off of.


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

Those pics look familiar...








The intake pipe cost ~120 bucks and you can get the parts at o'brians or autozone. It was an effort to get the MAF away from the inlet which helped nothing.


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*

did you use the original VF intake tube, and then re-route backup to the engine bay? or it all that intake coming right off of the charger? thinking of re-routing the intake on my R, in addition to helping out Eric.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (dr. b)*

guys, I'm literally like a day away from completely giving up on C2 altogether and going with lugtronic. If I do, all my C2 gear will be up for grabs.
Anyone need anything?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

anyone have a r32 throttle body on a 12v mkIV? The id is larger than my stock throttle body.


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (littlenr)*

In response to dr. b and maybe to Beastie97 for what its worth...Chris, its funny you post this today.
I just got out of the garage after experimenting:
Between classes this morning I stopped by PepBoys (I know







) and picked up several different pipes and couplers they offer, if anything to prove my theory correct.
Keep in mind I am using a VF kit as a base (all intake piping and etc). I found that using a 4" 90deg pipe (using the 3"-4" reducer coupler at the pipe) and extending the MAF with the 4" pipe gave me perfect idle, VAG-COM proved there was no longer periods of false readings from the MAF...the downside, I would have to run with no bumper and a crazy snorkel looking device sticking out. 
I tried similar concepts with 3" 90 and 60 deg piping leaving the reducer directly attached to the MAF housing with better than normal results, but never as good as the above. I tried using the 4" pipe to move the filter away, which helped, but the reducer still messes with the MAF. Unfortunately none of the arrangements could be real world usable, but I proved my theory. 
The above idea looks useful, but the intake piping running across the manifold would introduce a lot more heat (keep my header in mind). I'd like to see some pics of how people who relocated their MAF further away did it. Steve, if your still on here, do you have any? Anyways...my next experiment will be with air straighteners. I ordered a 1/2" one used for computer fans off of a site, I'm thinking a little time with experimenting I may be able to fab something up...I'll keep everyone updated.
BTW, I moved the MAF about a 1/2" closer to the SC inlet and the car barely ran...so don't give up all hope. If the air straightener makes a world of difference, I may talk to Chris about my finds...seems like there are a lot of people having these same or similar issues, turbo and SC that would benefit.


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*Re: (farfromugen)*

the heat from your header is easy to fix......it's called header wrap. wrap the header and there are foils and wraps to wrap the intake with to help reduce it's ability to absorb heat. also, you could introduce a cheap and easy heat shield.
all of these things are not too shiny (







), but it's do-able.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (dr. b)*

MAP sensor based tunes....Unitronic has the right idea with that. Ditch the MAF all together, allows for larger inlets as well as for the filter to be higher up so not to cause H2O injection.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (farfromugen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *farfromugen* »_
The above idea looks useful, but the intake piping running across the manifold would introduce a lot more heat (keep my header in mind). I'd like to see some pics of how people who relocated their MAF further away did it. Steve, if your still on here, do you have any? Anyways...my next experiment will be with air straighteners. I ordered a 1/2" one used for computer fans off of a site, I'm thinking a little time with experimenting I may be able to fab something up...I'll keep everyone updated.
BTW, I moved the MAF about a 1/2" closer to the SC inlet and the car barely ran...so don't give up all hope. If the air straightener makes a world of difference, I may talk to Chris about my finds...seems like there are a lot of people having these same or similar issues, turbo and SC that would benefit. 


here is how i did it


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_MAP sensor based tunes....Unitronic has the right idea with that. Ditch the MAF all together, allows for larger inlets as well as for the filter to be higher up so not to cause H2O injection.

i wish i could communicate like that^
i dont know how much unitronic is, but considering the price of a maf, it could be sold or forgotten for $ without it's vortex restrictor plate effect
my setup is standard filter location, with a flat black license plate behind it, 2" lower than the bottom of the filter for positive air press at any speed i think...


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

standalone is the way to go if you have the coin to do it. also, state inspections wont pass you if youre obd compliant, so keep that in mind. im waiting til june to get inspected, 2 months prior to my sticker date. once thats done, ive got 2 years on a legit sticker to run around on standalone. ill sell it before then im sure.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Got to agree with you Throttle







Standalone is the real answer.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

maybe someone knows, i'm going from a 2.75" to 2.55" pulley
i'm wondering what psi that pulley slips at, for you guys, since i've got a different setup 
or what size pulley do you guys slip 12 psi?
i'm also using a single idler mounted to 1 alternator bolt w 1/2" x 1" aluminum bar, should give me 240 degrees belt wrap


_Modified by EL DRIFTO at 1:28 AM 5-1-2009_


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

2.75's tend to slip a little, 2.55 will slip quite a bit more. Going from a 2.75 to a 2.55 will cause you to loose 8% (.61sqin) of your available pulley area. This number is providing there is no repositioning of idlers/increase in degrees of belt wrap.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_2.75's tend to slip a little, 2.55 will slip quite a bit more. Going from a 2.75 to a 2.55 will cause you to loose 8% (.61sqin) of your available pulley area. This number is providing there is no repositioning of idlers/increase in degrees of belt wrap. 

yep, smaller pulley = less belt wrap
what i should of asked is what pulley size are you seeing 12 psi, on high cfm blowers, and does belt slip become an issue at that point?
since that's my closest guesstimate...
parts for my old oil fed sc are no longer available, i can't get the gears changed like i used to be able to. i wish i had the 3.7 inside instead of the 3.0, or could change them, to keep belt wrap


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

Well, here is an update: I got the airflow straightener material in the mail today...nothing much to it, cuts with scissors. I cut it to the OD size of the housing, used 3M elec tape to hold it in place, then put the filter over it. Really doesn't seem to want to go anywhere since the filter is squeezing it in place as well (still temp. solution). Started the car, let her warm up to operating temps. Preliminary results are very good, holding throttle steady @ 1500 rpm there was no fluctuation (used to go up & down 200rpm as if revving when held steady). Held RPMs @ 2500 rpm to simulate cruising, let off and A/F peaked @ 16.3:1 then quickly went stoich (14.7:1). Keep in mind doing this same test used to result in off the gauge (18:1+) lean and a very lumpy idle for around 10 to 45sec, sometimes even longer. Real world testing will commence after the rain goes away, but I think it is a real solution to my issue. VAG-COM showed much smoother transition from the MAF idling steady @ around 3.3 g/s. I will want to see how it does with a proper load on the engine and long term driving, but so far so good.
Here is what the product look like:


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (farfromugen)*

wow real world fix ftw!
good job!


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EL DRIFTO* »_
what i should of asked is what pulley size are you seeing 12 psi, on high cfm blowers, and does belt slip become an issue at that point?


i use the 2.87" pulley from vortech, not the c2 junk pullies. i saw (unintercooled) 14psi max rpm. no belt slip either. thats based on my autometer boost gauge. on a 3bar map sensor, i saw right around 12psi, again, no belt slip. i THINK anything under that tends to slip for us, esp the 2.5" pullies.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EL DRIFTO* »_****

i could only imagine what that says. keep in mind youre using a different blower, so it may or may not slip for you as they do for us. i just try to avoid C2 pullies as they have not proven themselves to me. sharp edges, slip, slice belts, etc. havent had an issue with my vortech pulley


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

im also running a vortech pulley. it's an 8 rib 2.75" on my v9, I see 11 psi max @ redline.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_im also running a vortech pulley. it's an 8 rib 2.75" on my v9, I see 11 psi max @ redline.

are you having any belt slip issues?
this is also helpful info...
i'm guessing i'd go from 7psi on 2.75" to 11psi on 2.55"
assuming i have the same bracket as everyone in the end with 1 good belt wrap idler, i'm only downsizing the pulley 8%...


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

i hope to have a different bracket soon but here's the old stuff pics before it gets done right, or closer to right...
i picked up injectors yesturday
i can pick up the pulley at anytime so i put it off until i come up with an appropriate bracket
since the idler is the adjustment here, the order of operations for me is
1 new bracket
2 then new idler simply mounted to front alt bolt, with small piece of aluminum bar, i'll get pics...
3 then potential to tighten belt more...
http://i659.photobucket.com/al...9.jpg
http://i659.photobucket.com/al...4.jpg
http://i659.photobucket.com/al...b.jpg
http://i659.photobucket.com/al...6.jpg
http://i659.photobucket.com/al...6.jpg
this is the modified central locking pump that hobb switched on to send 10 psi to the fmu right away, with maf unplugged, to get 130 psi fuel pressure...
http://i659.photobucket.com/al...3.jpg
http://i659.photobucket.com/al...5.jpg
http://i659.photobucket.com/al...1.jpg



_Modified by EL DRIFTO at 5:42 PM 5-2-2009_


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EL DRIFTO* »_
are you having any belt slip issues?



i think i am. its hard to tell because my setup has so many problems its hard to isolate them all. i have no idler and no a/c, so i have quite a distance of un-tensioned belt. i just ordered an idler from VF so hopefully that will solve any slip i may have. oh, also my boost gauge is broken, so i cant even monitor for slip there either.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (mk4vrjtta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk4vrjtta* »_
thats what i heard too...but my wideband reads like high 11's at WOT in the upper rpms...









belt slip?


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_

i think i am. its hard to tell because my setup has so many problems its hard to isolate them all. i have no idler and no a/c, so i have quite a distance of un-tensioned belt. i just ordered an idler from VF so hopefully that will solve any slip i may have. oh, also my boost gauge is broken, so i cant even monitor for slip there either.










I think that idler will help you out...I am running a 2.5" pulley (V9) and the same idler and haven't experienced any known slip. Word to the wise though, VF will send you a 6 rib belt to run...do a search for the 8 rib version (sub 8pk----- for 6pk------ thats written on your belt) and shave a rib.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (farfromugen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *farfromugen* »_
Word to the wise though, VF will send you a 6 rib belt to run

ARE YOU F_CKING SERIOUS??? that is the gayest sh_t I have ever heard before in my life.
I was really not very ok with spending $200 on this F_CKING thing to begin with, but the fact that it came with the belt made it slightly easier to digest, since they are about 40bux for a good gatorback or equivalent.
that really pisses me off.
what length belt do you run? I have a 2.75" pulley, so if I know what belt yours is I can figure out what to run on mine.
I have a brand new 53.5" gatrorback at home that I was going to run, when I had the idea to flop the belt to the other side of the alternator pulley. But now that I have the idler, that thing is going to be way too short.
more wasted money, yay!


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (Beastie97)*

^ you would ask...damn, I can't remember the length. I am running the same length w/the 2.5" as I was with the 2.79" VF pulley. There was enough adjustment to accommodate both. Are you using VF brackets on the SC? That 53.5" should work (I think)...I'll go out to the garage and report back my belt size. FYI the stock 7 rib will also work with no A/C, I did that for a while too. I didn't like the idea of running a 6 rib since its easier to slip as well as puts tension on the bearings of the SC and accessories (ie: alt.) in a way they were not meant to be ran (further out on the shaft).


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EL DRIFTO* »_
belt slip?

not that i know of...boost gauge reads 8 psi at redline


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (littlenr)*

a day late and more than a dollar short...
littlenr sold his bracket just as i figured out how much a sc bracket costs comparted to an idler add on
Is anyone anticipating another sc bracket for sale soon???
i've devised another home made design, but i'll have to go spend another $100 on aluminum, take a few days off...


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

C2 is doing a re-run of the brackets for 500 each. Search for the thread. There is a group buy going on.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (littlenr)*

thats not too bad of a deal, though most people just want certain parts.
based on weather, either next monday or next friday, i plan to dyno the jetta. trying to get a baseline before i go to standalone in june. pray the weather holds!


----------



## slvr bullet (Aug 23, 2005)

*Re: (farfromugen)*

I'm about to put the 2.5 pulley on thinking about gettin Vf idler . I have a stage2 vf kit. My question is can I run the belt I have with the idler and 2.5 pulley


----------



## cody337 (Nov 28, 2007)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (hover)*

I just bought a used supercharger, vortech, I think... And it has supposedly been rebuilt and I want to make sure that it was done correctly, because the pulley seems to be a little stiff, but it does spin smoothly.. I was told to make sure that the bearings were the right size in diameter and that that isn't causing it to be stiff... I would really appreciate to hear what others have to say. 
I am stoked to get this system installed and would love to get some input. The charger also came with an extra set of the bearings used to rebuild it and so if they are the right and and abec rated then it can be redone with the other set of bearings. 
All helpful inputs welcome.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (cody337)*

spin the pulley by hand. it shouldnt spin on its own much, if at all. the gears inside is whats making you think its stiff. its totally different than a turbo.
did you buy it from someone on here? i now theres a few kits forsale now and i know one of them was rebuilt by cory, which i wouldnt second guess quality there.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (cody337)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cody337* »_I just bought a used supercharger, vortech, I think... And it has supposedly been rebuilt and I want to make sure that it was done correctly, because the pulley seems to be a little stiff, but it does spin smoothly.. I was told to make sure that the bearings were the right size in diameter and that that isn't causing it to be stiff... I would really appreciate to hear what others have to say. 
I am stoked to get this system installed and would love to get some input. The charger also came with an extra set of the bearings used to rebuild it and so if they are the right and and abec rated then it can be redone with the other set of bearings. 
All helpful inputs welcome.

Contact Todd @ http://www.superchargerrebuilds.com he is in Texas and does rebuilds and inspections. If you have any doubts on the charger send it out to him and have him look over it to have peace of mind.


----------



## cody337 (Nov 28, 2007)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_spin the pulley by hand. it shouldnt spin on its own much, if at all. the gears inside is whats making you think its stiff. its totally different than a turbo.
did you buy it from someone on here? i now theres a few kits forsale now and i know one of them was rebuilt by cory, which i wouldnt second guess quality there.

It wasn't for sale up on here... If what you say is correct then I would imagine that its fine, I just didn't want to go through all the trouble of installing it if it wasn't going to work...


_Modified by cody337 at 6:58 AM 5-8-2009_


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (slvr bullet)*

Todd is a great guy...he is very quick on his turn around. If you do ship it out, make sure you wrap it well, and take the pulley off before shipping (save it from damage). I think I wrapped mine with about 20' of bubble wrap and lined the box with Styrofoam. 

_Quote, originally posted by *slvr bullet* »_I'm about to put the 2.5 pulley on thinking about gettin Vf idler . I have a stage2 vf kit. My question is can I run the belt I have with the idler and 2.5 pulley 

You will need a smaller belt, but if you buy the VF no A/C idler kit, it comes with a new belt of the proper length.


----------



## slvr bullet (Aug 23, 2005)

*Re: (farfromugen)*

i want to keep my ac and run the idler to increase belt wrap tryin to keep belt tension down. I have 2 new stg 2 belts hoping I could still use it 


_Modified by slvr bullet at 10:30 PM 5-7-2009_


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_thats not too bad of a deal, though most people just want certain parts.
based on weather, either next monday or next friday, i plan to dyno the jetta. trying to get a baseline before i go to standalone in june. pray the weather holds!

i'm anxious to see what gains you get from tuning alone
seems like there's lots of room
i assume you can push your timing up to the knock sensor with your stand alone
what standalone brand/setup?


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

also i'm imagining the belt so tight the water pump fails!?!?
is there a water pump that is better than another?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EL DRIFTO* »_
i'm anxious to see what gains you get from tuning alone
seems like there's lots of room
i assume you can push your timing up to the knock sensor with your stand alone
what standalone brand/setup?

im anxious as well. i might hit the dyno today since the weather seems to be decent for once. im going to be using haltech e6x.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EL DRIFTO* »_also i'm imagining the belt so tight the water pump fails!?!?
is there a water pump that is better than another?

over tensioning can lead to either a bent pulley/shaft or broken pump(shaft/bearings).
IDK of any WP that are built particularly stronger, but the GRAF seems to be a staple as it, Meyle & HEPU use a metal impellar. 
You dont need a stronger WP, you'll need less belt pressure.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_
im anxious as well. i might hit the dyno today since the weather seems to be decent for once. im going to be using haltech e6x. 

Good luck Mike. I'm gonna try and dyno Mon. or Tue. Can't run w/ all the rain so gotta do something right?
Hoping to hit that 300whp mark


----------



## Vortexpert (Apr 17, 2008)

*Re: (slc92)*

question for everyone:
has anyone reversed the filter location on an A3 GTI?
reason:
im hacking up an intercooler and im clocking the charger in a downward position to have the charger going down through the "old" intake side.








i have this 90 bend going kinda downaward. behind the headlight








same thing here








now for the air filter side, i need to reverser the old VF filter pipe. i dosent really fit to well..








just imagine something here..
what do you guys think?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Vortexpert)*

just got off the dyno. its a mobile dynojet, but its pretty accurate. 302whp and 233wtq with my air/fuels in the high 11's low 12's. so theres room for improvement:
old dyno sheet - different dyno:








new dyno sheet - mobile dynojet:








about the intercooler setup - this is what you should try to go for. youre limiting space having to move your intake pipe. theres really no "easy" way to do any of it:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_just got off the dyno. its a mobile dynojet, but its pretty accurate. 302whp and 233wtq with my air/fuels in the high 11's low 12's. so theres room for improvement:
old dyno sheet - different dyno:








new dyno sheet - mobile dynojet:








about the intercooler setup - this is what you should try to go for. youre limiting space having to move your intake pipe. theres really no "easy" way to do any of it:









 Congrats joining the "300 Club"


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

X2, congrats!
any idea why the tq is down?


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (ThaCorradoKid)*

Congrats on breaking the 300whp mark w/ a SC








I don't think many have done it. Maybe 4 or 5 that I know of besides you.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (ThaCorradoKid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ThaCorradoKid* »_X2, congrats!
any idea why the tq is down?

I think he said he is actually seeing less boost due to the IC so maybe hurting him down low/mids but helping up top by letting him see full timing/cooler charge when he's seeing real boost. Not sure, but it makes sense.


----------



## Flyweight (Jan 15, 2007)

I bet the short runner is hurting your torque production as well THROTTLE. 
Congrats on hitting 300!


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Flyweight)*

less boost due to the fmic, sri, and 3" exhaust with no backpressure can all play a roll in that. no big deal though. atleast i know i wont be breaking gears with torque








car went 12.58 as is, and might have a little more in it to go faster as it sits. if i get a decent nite ill be at the track, but if not, ill wait til june.
june my haltech goes in, and i get a tune that will actually make power and be consistent. as you can see on the sheet, my a/f changed during runs, and 2 out of 3 were consistent


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

"300 Club Top 10"
12v VR6 Engines
1. b5vwc : 345whp/280wtq estimate (Unknown Dyno)(Rotrex C30-94 85mm)(17psi)
2. LSinLV : 342whp/???wtq (Dynojet Dyno) (V9 Charger)(15psi)
3. groupracer: 313whp/240wtq (DynoDynamics)(V9 Charger)(Cogged)(12psi)
4. Scooter98144: 310whp/265wtq(Dynojet)(V1 Charger)(???psi)
5. -Throttle- : 303whp/233wtq (Dynojet)(V1 Charger) (???psi)
6. SUPERCHARGED-JETTA : 301.7whp/254wtq (Mustang)(V1 Charger)(???psi)
7. CorradoMagic :301whp(298whp with fuel issue) (Mustang)(V1 Charger) (Cogged)(15psi)
8.
9.
10.


_Modified by DeckManDubs at 6:54 PM 5-8-2009_

_Modified by DeckManDubs at 7:07 PM 5-8-2009_

_Modified by DeckManDubs at 8:23 PM 5-8-2009_

_Modified by DeckManDubs at 10:00 PM 5-8-2009_

_Modified by DeckManDubs at 6:28 PM 5-10-2009_

_Modified by DeckManDubs at 6:29 PM 5-10-2009_

_Modified by DeckManDubs at 8:29 AM 5-11-2009_


_Modified by DeckManDubs at 9:20 AM 5-12-2009_


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

Hey guys here is an old mustang dyno sheet if you want dynojet numbers add about 15%


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (SUPERCHARGED-JETTA)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Vortexpert (Apr 17, 2008)

*Re: (SUPERCHARGED-JETTA)*









i got 325








all kidding aside, good job for the 300+ club. i hope to make it there someday supercharged


_Modified by Vortexpert at 4:17 PM 5-8-2009_


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

Scooter98144 on here:


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

deckman, yes its a V1 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
i WILL make more power, and run faster times in the coming months.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (Flyweight)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Flyweight* »_I bet the short runner is hurting your torque production as well THROTTLE. 
Congrats on hitting 300!

Forgot about that. Seems like that is pretty common w/ SRI's from what I have seen.


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (slc92)*

well hey, its good to see one V9 up there








I'll dyno mine this summer if at all possible. Not going to make the 300 club, but I'll be interested in where it stands.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (farfromugen)*

330 whp
mustang dyno
same setup since 04
i read bragging about your buddies car is like bragging about his dick...
but if you picked the car, donor, cams...
**** you dave








































the idler setup i'm copying...
4" long X 1" wide X 1/2" thick, exactly
holes 3" apart
back against alternator face
i'll have a little shorter one for more wrap
my blower pulley sits up higher...
_Modified by EL DRIFTO at 5:03 PM 5-9-2009_
stock engine, cams, 91, na chip, rrreg
_Modified by EL DRIFTO at 2:36 AM 5-10-2009_
12 psi
the bearings in the 2"idler have failed b4 and that's where the uneven idler pulley surface came from, no movement ever


_Modified by EL DRIFTO at 3:30 AM 5-10-2009_


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*


----------



## J.Q. Public (Jan 30, 2004)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

Former moderator LSINLV


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (J.Q. Public)*

T-trim impeller mod 10-15% flow increase.


----------



## hover (Mar 9, 2005)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

Guys, sorry for not getting this updated. I've had some seriously intense personal **** going on, but it looks like it is coming to a resolution. As far as my car, it is still NA







. It is also burning a wee bit of oil, so I'm contemplating building a monster 3.2, or even a 3.4 for it, then a V1. It is just going to take time. Getting divorced saps a lot of time, energy, and money from you.






















.
.
.
.
The 300 Club is now in the very first post. And, I will update it as needed. Mad props to you guys for getting over that bump, I know it has taken a lot of work and resources for you. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
DeckManDubs, special thanks to you for the IMs reminding me about the thread, and what all needs to be done to it. 
INA, I lost your PM, if you can get me that info again, I will gladly add it to the first page. 
To everyone in the thread, thanks for contributing. I'm glad this thread is still alive and kicking with enthusiasm. It has been a great source of information, enlightenment, and entertainment even for me. 







-Chad



_Modified by hover at 10:33 PM 5-10-2009_


----------



## J.Q. Public (Jan 30, 2004)

*Re: (hover)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hover* »_ . It is also burning a wee bit of oil, so I'm contemplating building a monster 3.2, or even a 3.4 for it, then a V1. It is just going to take time. 
The 300 Club is now in the very first post. And, I will update it as needed. Mad props to you guys for getting over that bump, I know it has taken a lot of work and resources for you. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
DeckManDubs, special thanks to you for the IMs reminding me about the thread, and what all needs to be done to it. 



As far as your car, I wouldn't go that crazy with building a monster motor to put a charger on top of. I'd go with a mild rebuild 2.8 or 2.9 with some decent cams and throw a V1 on there and work on the tune. Will end up making just as much power and be way cheaper and more reliable.
As far as the 300 club, LSINLV was on a dynojet (it says so right on the graph actually) and it was on a v9.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (hover)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hover* »_Guys, sorry for not getting this updated. I've had some seriously intense personal **** going on, but it looks like it is coming to a resolution. As far as my car, it is still NA







. It is also burning a wee bit of oil, so I'm contemplating building a monster 3.2, or even a 3.4 for it, then a V1. It is just going to take time. Getting divorced saps a lot of time, energy, and money from you.






















.
.
.
.
The 300 Club is now in the very first post. And, I will update it as needed. Mad props to you guys for getting over that bump, I know it has taken a lot of work and resources for you. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
DeckManDubs, special thanks to you for the IMs reminding me about the thread, and what all needs to be done to it. 
INA, I lost your PM, if you can get me that info again, I will gladly add it to the first page. 
To everyone in the thread, thanks for contributing. I'm glad this thread is still alive and kicking with enthusiasm. It has been a great source of information, enlightenment, and entertainment even for me. 







-Chad

_Modified by hover at 10:33 PM 5-10-2009_

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## VRClownCar (Apr 8, 2001)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_"300 Club Top 10"
12v VR6 Engines
1. LSinLV : 342whp/???wtq (Dynojet Dyno) (V9 Charger)
2. groupracer: 313whp/240wtq (DynoDynamics)(V9 Charger)(Cogged)
3. Scooter98144: 310whp/265wtq(Dynojet)(V1 Charger)
4. -Throttle- : 303whp/233wtq (Dynojet)(V1 Charger) 
5. SUPERCHARGED-JETTA : 301.7whp/254wtq (Mustang)(V1 Charger)
6. CorradoMagic :301whp(298whp with fuel issue) (Mustang)(V1 Charger) (Cogged)
7.
8.
9.
10. 


does this guy count? User name b5vwc, info and picture taken from his post on page two. Looking forward to my potential Rotrex project








Max Boost: 17psi
402.4hp at flywheel ~345whp @6676rpm, 135.3mph
330.5lbft torque at flywheel @5960rpm, 120.8mph
Setup:
Rotrex C30-94 85mm Pulley
Schimmel Shortrunner Intake, A/W Chargecooler, 263 Cams
Schimmel Head Spacer 9:1 Compression, ARP Head Studs & Rod Bolts
Forge Split-R Dump Valve, 95mm MAF Housing, BMC Air Filter
Walbro Fuel Pump, Delphi 440cc Fuel Injectors, Weber Fuel Regulator
Custom Map on standard ecu, 2.25" Exhaust (to be upgraded)
Peloquin LSD, 3.68 Final Drive, Limiter set to 7268rpm


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (VRClownCar)*

I would say it counts.


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

WOW, that thing must be a beast. someone needs to support rotrex stateside...


----------



## VRClownCar (Apr 8, 2001)

*Re: (ThaCorradoKid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ThaCorradoKid* »_WOW, that thing must be a beast. someone needs to support rotrex stateside...

there are plenty of rotrex dealers in the states. we'll see how my "kit" works out, mine will have the same charger as above, but mounted where my ac compressor used to be, and possibly a slightly smaller pulley


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

*FV-QR*

is there anyone on here running a "AMS" kit on there car. i don't have any of the paper work for my kit and wondered if the AMS kit is really a true CARB legal vortech kit for vw's. maybe a photo of the carb certification sticker that came with your kit.


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (carsluTT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *carsluTT* »_is there anyone on here running a "AMS" kit on there car. i don't have any of the paper work for my kit and wondered if the AMS kit is really a true CARB legal vortech kit for vw's. maybe a photo of the carb certification sticker that came with your kit. 

i got ya back, give me a sec.


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (carsluTT)*











_Modified by ThaCorradoKid at 12:56 PM 5-12-2009_


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *ThaCorradoKid* »_












oh hell yeah!.... thanks man. is it a foil style sticker or a alum plate? guess ill have to get crafty w/ getting my self on the up and up when it comes time for a inspection!
thnks


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

its a very thin and flimsy foil sticker. no prob.


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (ThaCorradoKid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ThaCorradoKid* »_WOW, that thing must be a beast. someone needs to support rotrex stateside...

Has anyone ever tried talking to Storm Developments in the UK about shipping a kit over here? I wouldn't think it would be that difficult. 
Mounting it where the A/C compressor goes seems like a solid idea...would keep it pretty stealthy. 
All we really need is the brackets, seems like 42DD or C2 could capitalize on it, once people started using the Rotrex SC on their cars, it would catch on rather quickly IMHO.


----------



## VRClownCar (Apr 8, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (carsluTT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *carsluTT* »_

oh hell yeah!.... thanks man. is it a foil style sticker or a alum plate? guess ill have to get crafty w/ getting my self on the up and up when it comes time for a inspection!
thnks

I found this picture kicking around the vortex somewhere. that was going to be my plan to get around the cali smog thing







plate is smaller in this pic but is more "in focus" might help a little







looks like you just need to make the plate match the serial number on the charger and you'll be good to go



















_Modified by VRClownCar at 12:54 PM 5-12-2009_


----------



## vr6pack111587 (Jan 13, 2009)

maybe someone in here would be interested in my kit
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4385881


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

*FV-QR*

thanks for the 2nd image "VRClownCar" im going to have to look around for a shop to make me my own sticker now i guess. or maybe find someone who can burn a image onto aluminum or something and make a nice piece kind of like a VIN # plate w/ all that info i can rivet or double side tape into place some where.
aww the car will never be done............


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 25, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (carsluTT)*

I have 1 for the list, 1991 vw gti vr6 with a c-1 procharger. (was built by dubstyl) last dyno run at imagition automotive in kansas city ks 3 yr's ago, ran 332whp. soon to dyno it again to get a new sheet and post it up.


----------



## TaintedRide (Mar 31, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

Very interested to see this car with the Procharger on it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TaintedRide)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TaintedRide* »_Very interested to see this car with the Procharger on it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

there was a video i saw of it. cant remember where though, probably on here though.... i love it!


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 25, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (mk4vrjtta)*

here is the video you speak of. 

It had some tuning done to it following the video to bring it to the 332whp number.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

maybe someone wants to buy my PC kit
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4390085


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

dave, why don't you copy that procharger c1 bracket and sell it to us for $500


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (EL DRIFTO)*

Prochargers =


----------



## FourSeasonTuning.com (Jan 12, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (carsluTT)*

AMS Install PDF here.
http://www.fourseasontuning.com/AMSINSTALL.pdf 
California owners can keep a copy of this in your glove box.
http://www.fourseasontuning.com/AMS.pdf


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *FourSeasonTuning.com* »_AMS Install PDF here.
http://www.fourseasontuning.com/AMSINSTALL.pdf 
California owners can keep a copy of this in your glove box.
http://www.fourseasontuning.com/AMS.pdf 




wow, iv looked for so long and never found that info! htanks a lot


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (FourSeasonTuning.com)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FourSeasonTuning.com* »_AMS Install PDF here.
http://www.fourseasontuning.com/AMSINSTALL.pdf 
California owners can keep a copy of this in your glove box.
http://www.fourseasontuning.com/AMS.pdf 


James, you never cease to come to the aid of VW owners.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

started the S/C install on my R today
































making all my boost and intake pipes running C2 S/w & 2.62 pulley


----------



## [email protected]rts (May 14, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (websaabn)*

^ Looking good. Hows the cabby been?


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_^ Looking good. Hows the cabby been?


working on it slowly,got a lot of plans for it after we get back from vacation/H20, me and the wife realized we were not gonna have the cabriolet done by h20 so we decided to focus on getting the R ready for h20


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (websaabn)*

its may.....stop posting, get to working!
R's looking good man. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
been messing with my car lately. most likely going to swap out my intercooler for something a bit more legit, and gain back my boost. so expect new numbers/times within the next few weeks.
btw, ran a 12.58 again on wednesday, so its still there.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_its may.....stop posting, get to working!



if the time was the only thing stopping the cabriolet from making it I would


----------



## Flyweight (Jan 15, 2007)

Well I am getting ready to break in my new motor and rebuilt SC setup in my MK2 and I have a few questions. What should my break-in procedure be? I have been reading a bit in the 12v forum that you should warm the car up and then basically beat on it throughout the rpm range making sure not to have the car hold a particular rpm for an extended period of time. Does this sound like a good procedure? I know my fathers 3 series break in procedure (specified by BMW) was to keep the car below 4000 rpm for the first 1500 miles. Any thoughts? 
Also, what weight and oil do you suggest I break the car in with. Keep in mind that I am breaking in both the rebuilt supercharger and the rebuilt motor. 
My setup reflects the knowledge I have gained through this thread. Thanks for sharing all your knowledge.
Here is the setup:
Motor:
Stock 2.8 12v rebuilt by VW (no I did not pay dealer price for this)
Metal head gasket
Euro Sport oil cooler
Low temp thermostat
Low temp fan switch
AC removed
Head:
Mild port and polish on the intake side done by Brad Greco
3 angle valve job
DRC 268 cams
Bildon hardened titanium retainers
Bildon race valve springs
Lightweight OEM lifters
Intake:
VF Engineering V9 Rebuilt (formerly slc92's kit)
11.5 psi pulley
Idler Pulley
Custom Idler Pulley for the Alternator
2.9 Intake manifold clone
Port matched runners to head gasket
Momentum Motorsports phenolic spacer
Custom 3” tubular front subframe that doubles as an intake tube (gets MAF away from charger and allows me to run euro bumpers)
K&N filter
Exhaust:
Ported and gasket matched stock manifolds
TT downpipe expanded to 3” outlet
3” custom side exit exhaust
3” Bola XR-1 muffler
3” Eastern Catalytic metallic cat

Fueling:
C2 30# chip
30# flow tested bosh redtops




_Modified by Flyweight at 10:36 AM 5-23-2009_


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (Flyweight)*

I broke in my rebuilt motor and that SC w/ conventional 10W-30. Part load pulls up to ~4000rpm I think for whatever mileage VF says. I started increasing the RPM and load gradually after that. My engine has been great for the past 6500 since the rebuild. I changed the oil pretty frequently as well. Maybe at 50 miles then 500.
Main thing is to avoid prolonged steady rpm and synthetic oil during the 3k break-in.


----------



## rajvosa71000 (Jun 9, 2004)

*Re: (slc92)*

Hope you guys don't mind me jacking the thread, but I was wondering if you guys can look at my clip and see if my blower sounds right.
It makes too much whining noise that I didn't hear before.
I don't see any unusual difference in performance or boost, just the noise.
Any help is appreciated.
I can hear it mostly at lower RPM while cruising, can't really hear it at high rpm, maybe do to the exhaust.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhNnOnDoYGM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eBdBwmCu4xQ


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (rajvosa71000)*

sounds more like an bbm charger than a V9.
im going to assume bearings, not much else that can go wrong. BUT, make sure its not something else, such as waterpump or power steering.
best bet, remove the belt, take a long string, start wrapping it around the pulley, and then pull it fast, and it will spin just the charger, and see if you hear anything. ghetto, i know, but i found out my brearings were shot that way, and then later on(months later) found my waterpump was toast and not my charger again.


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

That sounds a lot like dr.b's charger before redoing the bearings...he watches this thread, so I'll assume he'll chime in soon. His problem was bad bearings...


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (Flyweight)*

break in procedure should involve serious rpm at the very beginning for proper ring seating to the limited time cylinder scuff marks, 
otherwise bad ring seal according to this guy
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm



_Modified by EL DRIFTO at 3:47 AM 5-25-2009_


----------



## rajvosa71000 (Jun 9, 2004)

*Re: (farfromugen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *farfromugen* »_That sounds a lot like dr.b's charger before redoing the bearings...he watches this thread, so I'll assume he'll chime in soon. His problem was bad bearings...









A hope it's not the bearings, blower is pretty new, with proper brake=in perion, it has about 9k miles.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (rajvosa71000)*

worked on the intake for the R a little, still waiting on some couplers to arrive so i can finish it up
where the maf will be








clearance between intake pipe and fans








those are the only 2 pics i took, more to come when my parts show up


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EL DRIFTO* »_break in procedure should involve serious rpm at the very beginning for proper ring seating to the limited time cylinder scuff marks, 
otherwise bad ring seal according to this guy
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
_Modified by EL DRIFTO at 3:47 AM 5-25-2009_

That's his rec. but VF doesn't want the charger over 4k rpm for 300 miles I believe it is. Tough call.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (rajvosa71000)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rajvosa71000* »_Hope you guys don't mind me jacking the thread, but I was wondering if you guys can look at my clip and see if my blower sounds right.
It makes too much whining noise that I didn't hear before.
I don't see any unusual difference in performance or boost, just the noise.
Any help is appreciated.
I can hear it mostly at lower RPM while cruising, can't really hear it at high rpm, maybe do to the exhaust.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhNnOnDoYGM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eBdBwmCu4xQ

Think its time for a rebuild.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_
That's his rec. but VF doesn't want the charger over 4k rpm for 300 miles I believe it is. Tough call. 

ive heard the best way to break in a bike motor is to bring it up to half the max rpm, and let off the gas, letting vacuum settle the rings. did this on my current motor, and its help up well. you just gradually raise your rpms and let off as time goes on. did it over a 1wk period, and then just drove it normal for the first 500miles, then a bit harder for the next 1000, and its been fine since.
the v9 charger, as steve said, is the issue. and steve would know.


----------



## rajvosa71000 (Jun 9, 2004)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Think its time for a rebuild. 

WHo rebilds them? I think I still have warranty from VF on the blower, but just in case, where I could send it for rebuild and how much would it cost?
I did UOA recently, and this is the result, don't know if that has anything to do with the blower, but it's possible


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (rajvosa71000)*

http://www.superchargerrebuilds.com - todd does an awesome job. i needed mine back immediately, and granted i paid shipping, but i sent it out, he had it a day, and the 3rd day it was back on my car. hes awesome. i think, though unsure, but id also check with deckmandubs on here. he may be able to do it, just not sure.


----------



## rajvosa71000 (Jun 9, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Cool, thanks for the info guys, I might still have VF warranty on it, so I'll try to get it rebuild by vortech.
I'll save that web site for future problems http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (rajvosa71000)*

got some more work done today


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (websaabn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *websaabn* »_got some more work done today

















Now that is the real deal right there








Keep up the good work.


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

*Re: (rajvosa71000)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rajvosa71000* »_Cool, thanks for the info guys, I might still have VF warranty on it, so I'll try to get it rebuild by vortech.
I'll save that web site for future problems http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

what kind of oil were you using?


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

I'll second Todd as well, he is a stand up guy. I had mine rebuilt by him and he had a fast turn around, rebuilt it the day he received it. If you like, he can also rebuild it with more stout bearings for a price, including ABEC-9 ceramics. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## rajvosa71000 (Jun 9, 2004)

*Re: (ThaCorradoKid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ThaCorradoKid* »_
what kind of oil were you using?

_Quote, originally posted by *ThaCorradoKid* »_
what kind of oil were you using?

Elf Excellium NF 5w40


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *farfromugen* »_I'll second Todd as well, he is a stand up guy. I had mine rebuilt by him and he had a fast turn around, rebuilt it the day he received it. If you like, he can also rebuild it with more stout bearings for a price, including ABEC-9 ceramics. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


wow, sounds nice. do i dare ask how much?


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (carsluTT)*

The ABEC-9s are pretty pricey. I had him rebuild with ABEC-7s (I think) and he charged in the neighborhood of $700ish. dr.b rebuilt his himself with the ABEC-9s sourced from Todd, I want to say the bearings alone were $600ish with the seals. Todd charges anywhere from $200-$300 for the labor IIRC, so right around $900ish. 
I'd recommend letting him install them unless you are real confident and have access to a hydraulic press. The bad thing is, if you screw up and have to press the shaft back out, you risk destroying very expensive bearings, as well as doing damage to the housing, impeller, gear set, and a lot of precision machined pieces...kind of a scary proposition and well worth paying someone to take care of. 
Hopefully, its still under warranty. Vortech starts at $800 to do rebuilds and _will_ fix everything that they deem needs rebuilt, all at an extra cost. The good thing with that is Vortech will warranty their work...Todd doesn't, but I have heard nothing bad about his rebuilds, he is very thorough, and honestly, there is not much to a SC rebuild if you know what you are doing.


----------



## Vr6-SC Sweden (Jun 19, 2008)

*v9 idler bracket*

Can anyone halo me finding out the measurements for a idler pulley bracket for a VF kit.
http://www.garaget.org/?car=17772&image=1422237
the black bracket on the picture
I have serious problems with the belt slipping I think.
I get the same boost from a 2,5" pulley and a 2,7", the boost is about 4PSI on a intercooled V9 vr6 12v
Without intercooler the boost is 7PSI with 2,5" pulley.
There is no boost leaks, have checked, and the V9 SC is rebuild.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: v9 idler bracket (Vr6-SC Sweden)*

seeing the same boost on both pulleys tells me you have belt slip. seeing a 3psi drop between an intercooled and non intercooled setup tells me youre losing 3psi mostly bc your intercooler isnt flowing as well as it should.
the picture for the idler i cant help you with you.


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*Re: v9 idler bracket (-THROTTLE-)*

as for rebuilding your own charger...
if it's not part of how you make your living, it's not worth the hassle. i had to take it back apart after i finished (the first time) and annhilated the large ceramic bearing. ($250) that would've just about covered the rebuild.
also, due to recent events...
i'd strongly advise against replacing your stock crank pulley for an aluminum, solid one. it can (will/did) actually vibrate the damn bolt loose. (carnage) and yes, i used freakin locktite.
and ECS doesn't seem too excited about getting me a new pulley (that i would sell and not put back on my car), so i have a super cool paperweight.


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: v9 idler bracket (dr. b)*

^ wow, thats a new one...damn Chris, '09 has not been the year for you








I do think the torque on the MK3 crank bolt is something ridiculous like 850lb ft.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (websaabn)*

Worked on the R32 today, got the belt ( 97 - 00 eurovan belt is perfect length for a 2.62 pulley on a R32 vf kit just cut one rib off ) .Pulled the down-pipe and welded o2 bung for w/b on, cleaned up the welds inside the down-pipe and re welded the down-pipe flanges on the outside of the pipe.
re installed the down-pipe, now i am waiting on parts


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (websaabn)*

I would rather pay double then deal with ****ty customer service
taken from your sig. just happened, right now. paid 20 a piece for a set of couplers, ordered 2. received 1. got charger for 2 though. and best part is, i had to leave a message for them to call me back.
getting one local, 55bucks. atleast ill get the car together to run on sunday with my new fmic setup, and see what happens.


----------



## Vortexpert (Apr 17, 2008)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

i need some help supercharged family!
here is the deal.
installing VF stage 2 (stage 1 was installed many moons ago also many hands were involved, lets just call it an orgy install..)
here is my MAF wiring extension:
PIN#:FACTORY WIRE:EXTENSION COLOR
pin 1 -brown/red .. BROWN
pin 2- brown/blue .. white
pin 3- red blue .. red
pin 4- blue .. green
so the MAF clamp instruction states..."Connect the MAF clamp wiring to the MAF extension wire harness and MAF wiring from the ECU as shown below. The BLACK wire in the extension harness connects to the BLUE wire of the MAF clamp. The PURPLE wire in the MAF clamp wiring connects to the BLUE wire in the engine ECU wiring"
i will assume its going to be either pin 2 or 4 (the other 2 are power and ground) 
so which do you think? 
thanks guys.
_disclaimer: VF has had GREAT service in helping me, i wish they could help me be less retarded_









_Modified by Vortexpert at 7:46 PM 5-29-2009_


_Modified by Vortexpert at 7:47 PM 5-29-2009_


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_I would rather pay double then deal with ****ty customer service
taken from your sig. just happened, right now. paid 20 a piece for a set of couplers, ordered 2. received 1. got charger for 2 though. and best part is, i had to leave a message for them to call me back.
getting one local, 55bucks. atleast ill get the car together to run on sunday with my new fmic setup, and see what happens.
















..................... i orderd all my couplers from frozenboost.com http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I am very happy with them


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (websaabn)*

well the car is done for the moment, got a few bugs to work out, i have detonation at real light throttle between 1-2k rpms, some belt slip and the IC was too small, bigger one on the way this week







after i get the bigger IC and detonation fixed i will get a incar video








how the intake fits, i cant wait untill they have the black coupler back instock







and i need to get a better filets, thats what came with the C2 fuel kit
















video of first start
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aZ4U7kujzHE


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

I wish I could weld, looks good.


----------



## slvr bullet (Aug 23, 2005)

Help. Do I need to shim the pulley or will it line up? I'm putting 2.50 c2 pulley on my 98 vr6 v9 charger Vf kit. Finally got one they were on back order. Still not clear on if stg 2 belt will work with that pulley . Thanks for any helpful info anyone can provide.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (slvr bullet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slvr bullet* »_Help. Do I need to shim the pulley or will it line up? I'm putting 2.50 c2 pulley on my 98 vr6 v9 charger Vf kit. Finally got one they were on back order. Still not clear on if stg 2 belt will work with that pulley . Thanks for any helpful info anyone can provide.

I would not run the 2.5 C2 pulley on the V9, due to it only being rated @ 53000 for max impeller speed, you will be spinning it to 53k....The stock bearings wont take it for very long. Plus the C2 pulleys are crap due to sharp edges that eat up belts.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

Hey guys, been gone for a while, but I'm back and back at trying to get my setup off the ground again. My other thread was inactive too long, so I guess it got deleted, so bear with me here.
I got my new chip from Chris installed and swapped back in my stock 4 bar FPR and took the car out last night. So far, there is a huge difference. The power seems quite different, for the better. I was not able to get it to stall, although the idle was still a bit wonkey (I am going to assume from now on that a car of mine's age is just never going to run like stock on an off the shelf tune, ok moving on). 
I tried running without the TPS plugged in and it seemed to do great. I also ran with it plugged back in, and it still seemed to work quite well. I still have the entire ISV deleted and the throttle cable pulled to allow air in the TB at idle. I have a new boost gauge installed, but I am still not reading accurate boost, I guess my initial problem was not with the gauge after all. I am going to get a standard T vacuum line adapter tonight and see if that makes a difference. Maybe there is something wrong with the one that 42draft supplied in my kit.
I FINALLY got my VF idler delivered today. It took nearly a month to get it to me. Seriously craptastic customer service there. Apparently the excuse was that the belt was back-ordered and they just happened to get it in stock on the 3rd day of consecutive emails from me asking where the F my idler was. I'm really happy I had to wait that long for a belt I am not even going to use... I will try to get the idler installed this weekend.
I think after I drive it some more, get the idler on, and get the boost gauge worked out, I will go for another dyno and see where I'm at. The car does feel significantly faster than when I dyno'd 208, so we'll see.
Some of you may remember that I was considering swapping to Lugtronic standalone, the last time I posted on here. I was 99% convinced to just go ahead and put in my order yesterday, before I drove the car last night. Now, I don't know. I still really want to do it, but maybe it's not prudent. Time will tell I guess.
Thanks to everyone who has helped me out, and I'll update again after some more testing!


----------



## slvr bullet (Aug 23, 2005)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

Not good news about the 2.50 pulley. I'm trying to get alittle more power out of the setup. So my v9 is pretty much maxed out on stage 2


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (slvr bullet)*

i have a 2.5in pulley on my v9. yes it is maxing the charger speed, but just dont take it to 7000rpm...shift at like 6000rpm..with the smaller pulley you'll get into boost much sooner.


----------



## slvr bullet (Aug 23, 2005)

*Re: (mk4vrjtta)*

How much boost do you see shifting at 6k rpm and what do you see if you go to 7k? How long have you been running that pulley?


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (slvr bullet)*

well with the intercooler i see around 6-7psi at 6000rpm...keep in mind there was around a 4 psi pressure drop with the intercooler. ive only had it on for about a month, but as long as you dont bring it to 7000rpm all the time i think it should be okay...for a while


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (mk4vrjtta)*

VF's stage 3 for 12V's used a 2.25" pulley so I'm not sure taking a 2.5" to 7k should be a problem. Mine didn't last long but I also used 150 ft-lbs of belt tension which is ALOT.
Max rpm on a V9 used to be 60k but I think Vortech has since changed that







I guess rebuilding hundreds of these thngs under warranty will do that.
As for the IC, I'd rather run Meth on a SC setup simply b/c you can't make up for the boost drop.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (slc92)*

you def lose boost. harder for us s/c guys to turn up the boost to make up for it.
depends what youre trying to do. if its a street car that wont see the track, or very little track time, meth/water inj is perfect.
take it to the track, id intercool it.


----------



## slvr bullet (Aug 23, 2005)

*Re: (slc92)*

I was think the same thing that the pulley would be ok. I don't daily the car and I don't take it to 7k that much. I think I tensioned my belt to much when I first put the kit on followed Vf's directions and needed a rebuild after about 6000 miles or less. Also want to try w/m set up soon after I put the pulley and fueling stuff on. Hope I can use the same belt length I have now since I have a spare belt


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (slvr bullet)*

mine is intercooled for those that asked:


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (websaabn)*

got the new intercooler, 
















still have a lot of work, but that's all i had time for today


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (websaabn)*

HUGE! but mine isnt small either








looks good, coming along nicely. i should have some new pics soon once im done with mine.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_HUGE! but mine isnt small either








looks good, coming along nicely. i should have some new pics soon once im done with mine.

yea its big but according to the specs i should only see a .3 psi drop @ 800 cfm


----------



## Flyweight (Jan 15, 2007)

*Re: (websaabn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *websaabn* »_
yea its big but according to the specs i should only see a .3 psi drop @ 800 cfm

Wow that is efficient! What brand and size IC did you go with. I have never seen any air to air intercooler close to that efficient.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (Flyweight)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Flyweight* »_
Wow that is efficient! What brand and size IC did you go with. I have never seen any air to air intercooler close to that efficient.









haha yea i know







we will see what it actually does
http://www.frozenboost.com/pro...fca98


_Modified by websaabn at 11:57 AM 6-4-2009_


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (websaabn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *websaabn* »_
yea its big but according to the specs i should only see a .3 psi drop @ 800 cfm

must be the same brand that siliconeintakes.com sells. they advertise the same exact thing. i bet youll lose 2psi. but atleast it will stay cool


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

I lost 1.5psi on my Schimmel AWIC setup...But that IC will be perfect for a proper "Big Blower"


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: ([email protected])*








yea as long as its only 2 psi, i don't care this is just the daily







all i am looking for is a little fun and daily driveability


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (websaabn)*

ended up loosing about 1 psi with the intercooler, I don think its too bad


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (websaabn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *websaabn* »_ended up loosing about 1 psi with the intercooler, I don think its too bad

Thats not bad at all http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (websaabn)*

1psi based on the pulley's advertised boost?
what i mean is, the pulley you run lets say is a 8psi pulley. you now put it all together, and see 7psi with the intercooler?
OR
you run an 8psi pulley, see 11-12psi max without the intercooler, and now see 10-11psi?
reason i ask is because unintercooled, on a 12psi pulley i saw 14-15psi at redline. intercooled i see 10psi. so, i lost 4-5psi based on unintercooled numbers, and i lost only 2psi based on the pulleys advertised boost level.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

i am just basing from what i saw before the i/c and after the i/c, i still need to tighten the belt, i can hear it slip


----------



## jkillion (Feb 12, 2000)

*Re: Corrado SLC w/ Distributor VF Stage 2 Supercharger Install*

Hey SC gurus, I have finished installing the Stage 2 VF Kit on a 92 Corrado SLC. Had a C2 chip that was for distributor w/ 30# injectors and it ran horribly. Bucking whenever you hit the gas, barely idled. Switched to GIAC chip that came with the VF kit and the car runs very strong. Any ideas why the C2 chip wouldn't work? Thought I read something about 02 sensor, but can't find link.
Also, anyone ever grind down the ramp in the throttle body? I did mine and wonderin if it is causing weird on-off throttle feeling at freeway speeds. It transitions hard from cruising to slowing down with just a little change in throttle position and the transition back to on-power is just as rough unless you can just barely move the gas pedal.
Thanks for any insights.

Some pics from the install:
Just getting started:








A view from the top








Front view








Tight Fit in the Corrado









Managed to pack the Charcoal Canister back in too:


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: Corrado SLC w/ Distributor VF Stage 2 Supercharger Install (jkillion)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jkillion* »_Had a C2 chip that was for distributor w/ 30# injectors and it ran horribly. Bucking whenever you hit the gas, barely idled. Switched to GIAC chip that came with the VF kit and the car runs very strong.


Did you wire the MAF clamp into your MAF harness as outlined by VF? The C2 software will not run with the MAF clamp present, it is there specifically for the GIAC software.
I don't know about the 30# software, but the 36# software requires the use of the 4" MAF housing, the standard housing is too small.

_Quote, originally posted by *jkillion* »_Also, anyone ever grind down the ramp in the throttle body? I did mine and wonderin if it is causing weird on-off throttle feeling at freeway speeds. It transitions hard from cruising to slowing down with just a little change in throttle position and the transition back to on-power is just as rough unless you can just barely move the gas pedal.


mine has always done this, and I have not modified my TB at all. You can try to remove your ISV and see if that helps, also check your TPS to make sure it is giving correct voltage. Try running with both of those harnesses unplugged (reset your ECU) and see if it makes a difference.
All in all, C2 is written for power, not drive ability. People change over for the power and lose that stock feel. The ONLY way to get power and retain the stock driving experience is to go standalone. period, done, end of story. It's up to you which is more important.
also, please note that the C2 software requires you to delete the SAI system and also the EGR valve. Many people also have stalling and rough idle issues from the EGR, so Jeff wrote it out of the software. If you leave the SAI intact, your pump will run constantly. it gets quite annoying. 


_Modified by Beastie97 at 10:35 AM 6-8-2009_


----------



## jkillion (Feb 12, 2000)

*Re: Corrado SLC w/ Distributor VF Stage 2 Supercharger Install (Beastie97)*

Thanks for the ideas! 

_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_
Did you wire the MAF clamp into your MAF harness as outlined by VF? The C2 software will not run with the MAF clamp present, it is there specifically for the GIAC software.


No, I don't even know what the MAF clamp is. The wiring extension that came with the kit was just a wiring extension as best I can tell - anyway I cut it to length I needed. Looks like from this thread, the Stage 2 kit my not include the clamp? http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...73937

_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_
I don't know about the 30# software, but the 36# software requires the use of the 4" MAF housing, the standard housing is too small.


The pipe that came with the VF kit was perfectly sized for the stock MAF so I hope not. Guess I'd have to contact C2.


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_
mine has always done this, and I have not modified my TB at all. You can try to remove your ISV and see if that helps, also check your TPS to make sure it is giving correct voltage. Try running with both of those harnesses unplugged (reset your ECU) and see if it makes a difference.


That's useful information. Was hoping to retain as much driveability as possible, but realize this may be asking a lot out of a bolt on kit where so much changes. I will look into TPS output. Other part may just be that cracking the throttle with a SC spinning mid speed may just cause a blast of air that is hard to make smooth.


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_
also, please note that the C2 software requires you to delete the SAI system and also the EGR valve. Many people also have stalling and rough idle issues from the EGR, so Jeff wrote it out of the software. If you leave the SAI intact, your pump will run constantly. it gets quite annoying. 


Good news is 92 VR6 Corrados don't have SAI pumps - got to skip steps 3-5 or something. I'll check out the EGR if I put the C2 chip back in.
I still have all EGR/ISV/TPS/Charcoal canister things hooked up and it runs pretty well with GIAC chip. 
May delete the PCV-to-intake pipe and go with a filter to atmosphere instead. Scary to think about oil on the MAF sensor. Wonder if anyone has ever tried hooking a small electric vacuum pump to PCV outlet???


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: Corrado SLC w/ Distributor VF Stage 2 Supercharger Install (jkillion)*

The MAF clamp was this little black box that got wired in to the maf harness extension and then they told you to place it on top of the cabin air filter screen, to keep it dry and out of the way. I'm fairly certain that it was used in the stage 2 kits as well, but if you dont have it and the car runs well with the GIAC, then either you dont need it, or you got lucky maybe (although I have heard that some people need it and others dont, go figure).
the C2 4" maf housing is a 4"diameter aluminum housing that you place the stock maf sensor in. the VF housing is stock size and will not work with 36# software, I don't know about 30# software (it may be the stock size MAF housing for the 30# software).
having had just about every imaginable problem with my kit and C2's software, I have some advice for you:
If you want BIG power, go with standalone. Lugtronic is the best option as it is plug and play (no wiring) and Kevin, the creator, can tune it for you by swapping logs and maps, so you don't even have to know how to tune. This option will give you the most power and the best stock-like feel (provided you tune it properly).
If you dont want BIG power and you want a nice little boost and daily driver stock feel and reliability, stick with the GIAC software that seems to already be working well for you.


_Modified by Beastie97 at 12:03 PM 6-8-2009_


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: Corrado SLC w/ Distributor VF Stage 2 Supercharger Install (Beastie97)*

c2 software requires the 4" maf. plus, youll need to extend it away from the charger inlet a bit more than what you have pictured. but dont expect miracles. c2 software is nice for inspection (OBD2) and such, but driveability is so so. for an everyday boosted fun car, stick with the giac if it works for you, or go c2 but make the proper changes.
for me, its inconsistent, one min it runs like a dream, next minute, its all over. standalone is on its way into my car for that reason alone. reliability, and proper tuning. c2 mighgt make more power than the giac file, but i wouldnt trade 10whp for a consistent car.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: Corrado SLC w/ Distributor VF Stage 2 Supercharger Install (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_c2 software requires the 4" maf. plus, youll need to extend it away from the charger inlet a bit more than what you have pictured. but dont expect miracles. c2 software is nice for inspection (OBD2) and such, but driveability is so so. for an everyday boosted fun car, stick with the giac if it works for you, or go c2 but make the proper changes.
for me, its inconsistent, one min it runs like a dream, next minute, its all over. standalone is on its way into my car for that reason alone. reliability, and proper tuning. c2 mighgt make more power than the giac file, but i wouldnt trade 10whp for a consistent car.

my sentiments EXACTLY.
I'm sitting here at my desk, quietly contemplating writing that email to Kevin to get my Lugtronic ordered. What do you think Mike, should I do it?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: Corrado SLC w/ Distributor VF Stage 2 Supercharger Install (Beastie97)*

i know kevin. hes a good guy, can tune over the phone/internet. you log some info, send it his way, he readjusts the map, you download it/upload it, and you try again. its capable stuff. plug and play option is awesome. like i said, had i not goten the haltech at a steal, id probably have gone lugtronic.
thing is, ask youreself, and everyone else thinking about it should ask themselves the same thing - how far do you want to take it, and for what purpose?
i want 11's with power and consistency. for an everyday driver thats just a bit of fun, id stay chip tuned. youre obd1, try looking for an ATP S/C chip. my friend made 250whp and was very reliable on one.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: Corrado SLC w/ Distributor VF Stage 2 Supercharger Install (-THROTTLE-)*

I'm talking to a guy right now that is interested in buying my C2 setup. If he does, I'm ordering Lugtronic this week.
I want it all! Power, driveability, consistency, and reliability!


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: Corrado SLC w/ Distributor VF Stage 2 Supercharger Install (Beastie97)*

you answered your own question. id sell it in a heartbeat then, and move onto the lugtronic. call kevin up and get the details figured out, and make your move. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## jkillion (Feb 12, 2000)

*Re: Corrado SLC w/ Distributor VF Stage 2 Supercharger Install (-THROTTLE-)*

I agree with you guys about sticking with GIAC for now. Happy enough with how it's running. Hopefully the feeling last







Power won't do me any good if I can't drive around town or around the track without issues.
So how much are these fabled lugtronic systems? Any way to tune them yourself?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: Corrado SLC w/ Distributor VF Stage 2 Supercharger Install (jkillion)*

http://www.lugtronic.com/ 
they are tune-able by anyone who knows how to tune. We were just stating that for noobs like me who have no idea how to tune, Kevin will help tune, instead of you buying Tech or something and being completely on your own.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Kevin needs to give me a discuount for all this un-paid promo work i'm doing for him here


----------



## KTrip (Jul 14, 2007)

*Re: Corrado SLC w/ Distributor VF Stage 2 Supercharger Install (Beastie97)*

so who all is runnin an afc??? ive always been under the impression our ecu's will compensate for the changes we make with a piggyback and reverse everything we change with them. but farther back in the thread it sounded as though quite a few of you were having success making changes with them??? please let me know as ive always wanted to hook one up to do some tweaking but didnt think it would work.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: Corrado SLC w/ Distributor VF Stage 2 Supercharger Install (VR6T3)*

I'll let others chime in here too, but I'll give my two cents as well:
For all the time, effort, and money (although granted not that much money) invloved in wiring an afc and then still having to tune, I would say don't bother. If you really want to tune and get the most out of your setup, you have to go standalone. I think that is why you won't find many people on here running an afc. If you're really serious about power, tuneability, and driveability, the only option is ditching that maf and going with standalone and a map sensor.


----------



## jkillion (Feb 12, 2000)

*Re: Corrado SLC w/ Distributor VF Stage 2 Supercharger Install (Beastie97)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beastie97* »_ http://www.lugtronic.com/ 
they are tune-able by anyone who knows how to tune. 

Man, the Lugtronic ECU looks pretty incredible. Too bad it aint cheap. That's what everyone should have - easy access to retune their car. I presume you can save data during a run to look at it later?
Are there any V9 Supercharged cars running one on here? Wonder how many it would take to get a group buy


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: Corrado SLC w/ Distributor VF Stage 2 Supercharger Install (jkillion)*

There are no V9s on Lugtronic... YET...








Kevin makes each ECU by hand, one by one, so I doubt there is any possibility of getting a group buy together on one. Also take in to consideration that the thing is priced about $2000.00 less than what it should be. It is every bit as capable as Tech3, there is no wiring involved, and Kevin will tune it for you. To me, that makes the thing worth way more than what he's priced it at.


----------



## KTrip (Jul 14, 2007)

*Re: Corrado SLC w/ Distributor VF Stage 2 Supercharger Install (jkillion)*

yea lol broke college kid here. and i read backa bit that some people were pulling as much as a 30hp gain from messin around with one?!?! i mean if i even got half of that from one id say its worth it to me. can anyone confirm this afc stuff???


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: Corrado SLC w/ Distributor VF Stage 2 Supercharger Install (VR6T3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VR6T3* »_so who all is runnin an afc??? ive always been under the impression our ecu's will compensate for the changes we make with a piggyback and reverse everything we change with them. but farther back in the thread it sounded as though quite a few of you were having success making changes with them??? please let me know as ive always wanted to hook one up to do some tweaking but didnt think it would work.









not many people, and i dont think anyone in here except me has one installed and running.
truth is, it helped me with the rich running c2 software. i only dialed out fuel over 5000rpm though. i didnt bother tuning it for anything under since i wasnt to worried. it does work, but youll need a wideband o2 sensor to be able to street tune it.
i got mine for 75bucks used, wired in within an hour, and had it tuned at the track in 3 runs.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (websaabn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *websaabn* »_
haha yea i know







we will see what it actually does
http://www.frozenboost.com/pro...fca98

_Modified by websaabn at 11:57 AM 6-4-2009_

btw, i was looking around on their website. you can see small pics here and there from siliconeintakes.com
haha, so i knew it looked familiar.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: Corrado SLC w/ Distributor VF Stage 2 Supercharger Install (VR6T3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VR6T3* »_yea lol broke college kid here. and i read backa bit that some people were pulling as much as a 30hp gain from messin around with one?!?! i mean if i even got half of that from one id say its worth it to me. can anyone confirm this afc stuff???

from what I've seen, most people run the A'Pexi Super AFC2 controller. That's what I was going to go with until I realized there was no point for me.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: Corrado SLC w/ Distributor VF Stage 2 Supercharger Install (Beastie97)*

BTW guys, in an effort to go standalone, I am putting my C2 gear and a couple other related things up on the chopping block:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4427224 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4428639 


_Modified by Beastie97 at 9:01 AM 6-10-2009_


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_
btw, i was looking around on their website. you can see small pics here and there from siliconeintakes.com
haha, so i knew it looked familiar.

yea from what i understand they are the same company


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: (websaabn)*

Hay guys, I put a vf stage 2 kit on my 02 12v, the car runs strong and I love it, but recentley I got a epc light at high rpms, scaned the car and there were 4 things about the maf. I took it to vf and they scanned it aswell and nik said I needed a new maf. I bought a brand new maf and it's been 3 weeks since I put it in, it ran good and again I'm getting the epc light again, same codes. Can some one tell me if this is normal, somthing to worry about?the first time it happens there was a tiny bit of oil on the maf, this time there is none. I'm new to sc fi and only had a dub for a year or so. 
I'm running giac softwear, and a 262 cam and 5 30 sin, if that makes any diffrence


----------



## passatvr607 (Nov 11, 2007)

*Re: (flybye1)*

any one know what a bad v9 sounds like or one going bad at least?? thanks for the help


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (passatvr607)*


_Quote, originally posted by *passatvr607* »_any one know what a bad v9 sounds like or one going bad at least?? thanks for the help

The phrase "metal on metal" comes to mind


----------



## obdONE.old (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Hey guys, 
Jamie here, formerly Beastie97, changed my screen name as everything for me will change now and i figured its best to have a clean slate. That and the fact that I have been using the old name since I was 19, seemed like a change was prudent.
I am officially a SEM owner:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4435826 
bought that from Paul this morning! I was going to go with Lugtronic, but I have not been able to communicate with Kevin. I got this and the wideband and some greentops coming to go in to the car within the next few weeks.
I will also be receiving my SRI built by juan8595 sometime next week and then I will be installing my top mount IC that used to be in Todd's old car (bogevr6):








much will change. I am aiming for 330whp which I feel is the ceiling for the V9. This may be unattainable, but I'm going to give it a try. I will update here and also maybe start my own build thread, don't know yet. I'm generally way more interested in doing the work, than photographing and tracking and posting the work








for reference, my car as it sits now:








stay tuned, and thanks a million to Mike (-THROTTLE-), DeckManDubs, and all the others that have helped get me to this point.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*

Looks like you will have your hands full Jamie http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Congrats on going SEM.
Dyno depending 330whp on a V9 I feel is obtainable. The real trick is some big cams and a really free flowing exhaust. The best bet is to try and not dropping the compression but making sure that the EGT's dont go to crazy (the IC should keep that in check) I ran for 5,000 miles last year @ 12psi, 2k of it was non-ic, and the later 3000 was with the Schimmel AWIC setup. 
Worst case is that you swap out for a V1 or V2 to get more CFM capabilities. 
Post up the build progress.
-Noah


----------



## obdONE.old (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Thanks Noah (you are DeckManDubs, right?). It's a big step, but ultimately one I feel will pay off immensly in the long run.
I plan on keeping completely stock internals. Stock cams, no head spacer, etc. I have a new 2.5" exhaust coming, which isnt exactly the freest flowing exhaust, but it's a hell of a lot better than my 10 yr old 2.25" Bosal I have on there now. I was going to go custom 3" but I got this for $225 shipped, so figured I would give it a try.
If I don't hit my numbers, I will most likely just keep it wherever it lands for a while. I plan on doing paint and bodywork next year, so my budget for the engine is all used up for probably the next 2 years. If I decide I really need more power, I may upgrade to a V1 or V2, but I would have to get a crazy good deal on it.
I will try to be as thorough as possible with the build progress, but like I said, I am historically terrible at keeping track of these things.
Thanks again to everyone! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*

You are correct on the DeckManDubs.

The cams will be the biggest part to unleashing more power. Either Autotech 262's or Some 268's will yield the most power. The MK4 with the 313whp was using the 262's.


----------



## obdONE.old (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: ([email protected])*

i hear ya. we shall see. i am going to see where i land with what i have right now and if i decide i REALLY need more go fast, then maybe.
only problem is, knowing me, if I open the head to install cams, I'm going to rebuild the whole damn thing. And then I'm going to drop the motor and tranny, get a LSD, and shave and paint my bay. So, like I said, no immediate plans on cams. haha.


----------



## jkillion (Feb 12, 2000)

*Re: (obdONE)*

Hey man, congrats on making a leap and a new beginning. Will be very curious to see how it works. I met up with another dizzy corrado w/ VF Stage 2/V9 kit last weekend (rix337). He's running pretty stable with C2 software. I've got the GIAC and running OK, not great. Our WOT performance was pretty much the same, but mine still stalls occasionally at idle. I relocated MAF and air filter so that I've got about 2 feet between each - can't tell a difference so I'm not ready to buy into the MAF signal/turbulence theory just yet.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*

congrats dude, and no problem. any questions, ask. id suggest some sort of hood scoop to help get air onto the ic. use a old 300z scoop or so. just a suggestion.
pauls stuff is good, and atleast he will help you get setup. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
id suggest cams for anything in the 300range though


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Is anyone besides -Throttle- making passes wiith a s/c this year? Haven't seen any times posted.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (jkillion)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jkillion* »_Hey man, congrats on making a leap and a new beginning. Will be very curious to see how it works. I met up with another dizzy corrado w/ VF Stage 2/V9 kit last weekend (rix337). He's running pretty stable with C2 software. I've got the GIAC and running OK, not great. Our WOT performance was pretty much the same, but mine still stalls occasionally at idle. I relocated MAF and air filter so that I've got about 2 feet between each - can't tell a difference so I'm not ready to buy into the MAF signal/turbulence theory just yet.


How far is the MAF from the supercharger inlet pipe? I ran the air filter right on the end of my MAF w/ my VF kit on a Corrado dizzy w/ no issue. The MAF has to be as far away from the charger as possible. MINIMUM of about 18" w/ preferably a bend or two in there. My car NEVER stalled after that.
Mine went supercharger inlet pipe, 18" of flexible tubing, MAF, air filter, all inside the RF bumper area. It's tight. 
Turbo is different. The MAF doesn't seem to mind being 12-15" from the turbo, but it doesn't like the air filter right on the MAF.


----------



## obdONE.old (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jkillion* »_Hey man, congrats on making a leap and a new beginning. Will be very curious to see how it works.


Thanks Jesse, I'll try to keep posting.


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_congrats dude, and no problem. any questions, ask. id suggest some sort of hood scoop to help get air onto the ic. use a old 300z scoop or so. just a suggestion.
pauls stuff is good, and atleast he will help you get setup. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
id suggest cams for anything in the 300range though

I have definitely been thinking about some sort of a scoop. I am going to run it as is for now, and when I do the body work next year, I will more than likely have that as one of my plans.
all my experiences with Paul thus far have been great. A huge difference is that he actually posts his cell number on his website. pretty great customer service there. I also feel a bit more confident knowing there are options for upgrading and hardware replacement, in case something goes horribly wrong!


----------



## passat_98 (Mar 31, 2007)

*Re: (obdONE)*

Wrong? What could go wrong?


----------



## luckyvr6 (Jan 6, 2009)

*Re: (vw1320)*

made 3 passes last tues.13.97 @106.2.46 60 ft everything in the car and my fat ass bahind the wheel.pretty happy for the first passes with the charger.


----------



## obdONE.old (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: (passat_98)*


_Quote, originally posted by *passat_98* »_Wrong? What could go wrong?









nothing, as long as you come no where near it, matthew...


----------



## jkillion (Feb 12, 2000)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_
How far is the MAF from the supercharger inlet pipe? I ran the air filter right on the end of my MAF w/ my VF kit on a Corrado dizzy w/ no issue. The MAF has to be as far away from the charger as possible. MINIMUM of about 18" w/ preferably a bend or two in there. My car NEVER stalled after that.


Hey man, thanks for the info. I saw some of your old posts so what I did was get two lengths of flex tube. One goes from where the VF inlet pipe ends (where the charcoal canister used to be) to just left and underneath of the front engine mount (so probably more than 2' from the SC inlet). That's where the MAF sits. Then there is another length of flex tube all the way over to the driver side where I have the filter mounted under the horns. Frankly, I didn't notice much change doing this. just runs ok, not great with some stalling still at idle (maybe 1 time out of 10 after a decelleration) and rough cold starts (i did replace coolant temp sensor).
Do you have any pictures of how you created 18" of length between the SC inlet and the MAF? The other Corrado I met up with had a kind of S-shaped twist and a smaller than VF filter all above the passenger side splash guard.

I am inclined to keep mine this way because I'm missing the passenger side splash guard








I also tried venting the PCV to atmosphere rather than back into the SC inlet pipe. No noticeable change, but at least I won't drip oil into the air inlet. Gonna try hooking up an air pump to pull vacuum on the crank case.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (jkillion)*

something about routing all that pcv slime back into the clean sc impeller
i've heard nightmare stories of instantly ruined blocks from rigging up something with way too much vacuum to the crank case
too much vacuum ruins rings
you must be using something meant for this?


----------



## jkillion (Feb 12, 2000)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EL DRIFTO* »_something about routing all that pcv slime back into the clean sc impeller
i've heard nightmare stories of instantly ruined blocks from rigging up something with way too much vacuum to the crank case
too much vacuum ruins rings
you must be using something meant for this?

Well, it's an experiment, but you can find other folks doing it successfully. I'm not worried about the rings. In normal operation they see up to 500 psi on the top side. Whether the backside sees 15 psi (1 atmosphere) or 0 (a complete vacuum, which will never happen) is a pretty small difference for the pressure difference applied across the rings. Plus, there is actually HP to be gained because you pull the vacuum on the back side of the pistons - equivalent to adding pressure to the top side of them!
PCV Slime is exactly why I disconnected the PCV from the SC inlet pipe - that and the fact that it used to be aimed to drop any slime right onto the MAF (not anymore). 
But now, rather than vent the PCV to Atmosphere, I'd like to pull at least some vaccuum on the crank case. It also gives water absorbed by the oil a good path to exit when it evaporates. Just not nice for the environment I suppose.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

put a catch can in there.


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (vw1320)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vw1320* »_Is anyone besides -Throttle- making passes wiith a s/c this year? Haven't seen any times posted. 

Going to try... just got it running last weekend and then I went on vacation. so I just have to put the front end back on now.


----------



## obdONE.old (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*

the UPS man is bringing me tasty treats:










_Modified by obdONE at 1:48 PM 6-22-2009_


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_the UPS man is bringing me tasty treats:









_Modified by obdONE at 1:48 PM 6-22-2009_

All you need now is to polish her up up then it will be banging http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## obdONE.old (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
All you need now is to polish her up up then it will be banging http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

haha, yeah, doubtful it will be getting polished this time around. Maybe when I tackle the bodywork.
The TB cable bracket has one bent tab that you can just barely make out in the picture. Tips on bending it back in place without breaking it off?
oh, and these welds are out of this world! Luis does some damn good work...


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*

To bend it back use a little heat from a small torch (150-200 deg F) and lightly tap it back into place with a small hammer.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (jkillion)*

on 5.0 mustangs where i've seen the ring failures
they were rigging some taurus smog pump or something that sucked the rings too hard to the cylinders at idle for FAIL
i've seen a crank driven vac pump on some nascar thingy
thats all i know
our motors have piston oilers which may be doing some of that already
i'm not so sure the advantage of vac on the back side of the piston wouldn't be negated by the upward/opposite stroke
is someone in this forum successfully vaccing something???
any kind of # or info would be interesting


_Modified by EL DRIFTO at 9:08 PM 6-22-2009_


----------



## obdONE.old (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: ([email protected])*

yeah, sounds like a plan, thanks noah. You think I could use a creme brulee torch to heat that up with?






















it's all i've got!


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_yeah, sounds like a plan, thanks noah. You think I could use a creme brulee torch to heat that up with?






















it's all i've got!

Yep, I have seen my old man use one for some brazing in a jam at the shop.


----------



## obdONE.old (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Yep, I have seen my old man use one for some brazing in a jam at the shop.

haha, good, I'm gonna do it! Hold your breath!


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*

ha, nice jamie. i was just at luis' house, about 15 min ago. he def would NOT have shipped it bent, so that def happened during shipping.


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Can anyone help me with the question I asked on page 29( at the bottom )?


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (flybye1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *flybye1* »_Hay guys, I put a vf stage 2 kit on my 02 12v, the car runs strong and I love it, but recentley I got a epc light at high rpms, scaned the car and there were 4 things about the maf. I took it to vf and they scanned it aswell and nik said I needed a new maf. I bought a brand new maf and it's been 3 weeks since I put it in, it ran good and again I'm getting the epc light again, same codes. Can some one tell me if this is normal, somthing to worry about?the first time it happens there was a tiny bit of oil on the maf, this time there is none. I'm new to sc fi and only had a dub for a year or so. 
I'm running giac softwear, and a 262 cam and 5 30 sin, if that makes any diffrence

stage 2. likely you are maxing the voltage, even w/ the VF clamp. 
What were the codes? we can only guess to much.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

Post the codes, that will help a lot with figuring out the reason of the check engine light.


----------



## obdONE.old (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_ha, nice jamie. i was just at luis' house, about 15 min ago. he def would NOT have shipped it bent, so that def happened during shipping.

oh yeah, I know. I talked to him about it already. I knew it was UPS and their shiete package handling the second I saw it. They are better than fedex though







It's no biggie, I'll get it fixed up good.


----------



## obdONE.old (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*

so, I've been driving my car to work the past 2 days, and will continue to do so for the remainder of the week and next, while I'm doing small things here and there and waiting for more parts to arrive.
It is currently 103*F here in Houston and has been and will be like that for the rest of the summer. I am SERIOUSLY thinking about re-installing my A/C system








my question: I just spent $200.00 on the VF Idler and went through 1.5 months of bullshi_t with Shawn trying to get him to ship the damn thing to me, and now I'm thinking of going back to A/C... Will I require an alternate idler setup if I re-install the A/C, or is the compressor pulley enough to keep adequate tension on the pulley? I'm pretty sure all the VF pulley does is "act" like the compressor pulley anyways, right?
anyone want my idler? know where I can get a complete a/c system on the cheap?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*

i think i have a compressor and pulley for it laying around. "should" have been a working unit as well. lines and condensor youll have to source still. lmk if you want it.
about the question, im not sure. i know its hot, and at times i miss my ac, but the belt issues i had were due to the ac, so it was removed, and havent had a problem since.


----------



## obdONE.old (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

what issue were you having, slippage? how did removing the a/c help / how was it the cause?
honestly, I shouldn't even be thinking about this. It's not supposed to be a daily driver...


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*

from what i remember, my acces bracket was bent at the bottom, where the ac comp bolts onto it. i just removed it, and everything was fine.


----------



## obdONE.old (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

ahhh gotcha. yeah, Mine is a-ok, but I don't know, I think I'm just being a baby, really. But DAMN its hot out there...
Thanks for the offer on the compressor, I'll let you know. I still have my evap or heat exchanger or whatever and those 2 are the expensive parts, so maybe it wont be that expensive to get it back in there.


----------



## MexicanPsycho (Apr 10, 2004)

*Re: (obdONE)*

Alright I'm running an ams kit ,2.75pulley, autotech 262 cams, 30# injectors, and just switched over to c2 software.
I'm in the process of moving the maf before the charger, what's the best way of doing this? I dont have the piece that comes with the vf kits.
I bought this kit used and it came with a BOV should I also switch to a DV?
TIA


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: (MexicanPsycho)*

Go dv


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (MexicanPsycho)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MexicanPsycho* »_Alright I'm running an ams kit ,2.75pulley, autotech 262 cams, 30# injectors, and just switched over to c2 software.
I'm in the process of moving the maf before the charger, what's the best way of doing this? I dont have the piece that comes with the vf kits.
I bought this kit used and it came with a BOV should I also switch to a DV?
TIA









if you can weld, buy some pipe and make a intake pipe, try to get the maf as far away from the charger as you can http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif and run a DV


----------



## billiethebutcher (Sep 24, 2002)

*Re: (websaabn)*

anyone have an poinion on this let me know http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## MexicanPsycho (Apr 10, 2004)

*Re: (websaabn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *websaabn* »_
if you can weld, buy some pipe and make a intake pipe, try to get the maf as far away from the charger as you can http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif and run a DV

how do I extend the maf harness just cut and solder longer wires? thanks


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (MexicanPsycho)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MexicanPsycho* »_
how do I extend the maf harness just cut and solder longer wires? thanks

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif just make sure you dont mix the wires up


----------



## obdONE.old (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: (websaabn)*

no updates from anyone?
well, I got no pics yet, but I'm currently having my 2.5" exhaust installed and getting my new charge pipe fabricated. I should have the car back this week.
I had them weld in straight pipe instead of using the middle muffler that is a component of mk3 exhausts. Hopefully it will flow a bit better without it. It will also be nice and loud.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (obdONE)*

ditched the FMIC on the R32, hooked up the W/M worked for a day then it quit working, did lots of wire chasing and found a short on the wire that triggers the pump to turn on







got that fixed and put the 325 ml nozzle in







all i can say the car came to life







now i am seeing 7 psi. i am going to do some logs to send to C2 so we can tweak it









** http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Snow performance is a awesome company to do business with


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (websaabn)*

Thats nice. C2 has become a total pain in my ass to deal with lately.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (websaabn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *websaabn* »_ditched the FMIC on the R32, hooked up the W/M worked for a day then it quit working, did lots of wire chasing and found a short on the wire that triggers the pump to turn on







got that fixed and put the 325 ml nozzle in







all i can say the car came to life







now i am seeing 7 psi. i am going to do some logs to send to C2 so we can tweak it









** http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Snow performance is a awesome company to do business with









thats good to hear...i will be ditching my fmic soon also and going the w/m route. how much better did it feel?


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: (mk4vrjtta)*

Iv been trying to decide wheather to go front mount or water meth, which is better, what kind of issues have come up with w/m kits? Can it damage anything?


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (flybye1)*

just go water meth man...no pressure loss http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## obdONE.old (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: (mk4vrjtta)*

just got back from picking my car up after having the charge pipe fabricated:

















































now i have to install everything and get the MS in there and start tuning. It's coming along though. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*

Water/meth should be used in conjunction with an intercooler. I wouldn't suggest relying on it entirely for detonation control.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_just got back from picking my car up after having the charge pipe fabricated:

















































now i have to install everything and get the MS in there and start tuning. It's coming along though. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Looks good http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*

looking nice jamie. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
i havent done any mods since my new intercooler. havent had time with the new job. standalone will go in AFTER waterfest due to work and time constraints. so im hoping that mid august ill have info/times to post up.


----------



## obdONE.old (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Thanks Noah, thanks Mike. g/l with the SEM install Mike. Not that I think you will need it, but hopefully I'll have some pointers for you within the next few weeks.


----------



## v-dubz4lyf (Jun 13, 2005)

*Re: (websaabn)*

im currently in the process of deciding to go w/m or fm/smic...now since vf is telling me they dont sell the stage 3 kits for the mk3's anymore im scrapping the smic idea and kinda leaning towards w/m....do you prefer w/m over an intercooler? and why...thanks
and also, i heard that you can use just water in the w/m tank?? will that work. or can it cause damage to the t/b or other electrical components?? and where can you get meth??...cost?? 
thanks....


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *v-dubz4lyf* »_im currently in the process of deciding to go w/m or fm/smic...now since vf is telling me they dont sell the stage 3 kits for the mk3's anymore im scrapping the smic idea and kinda leaning towards w/m....do you prefer w/m over an intercooler? and why...thanks
and also, i heard that you can use just water in the w/m tank?? will that work. or can it cause damage to the t/b or other electrical components?? and where can you get meth??...cost?? 
thanks....

there is a lot of good info here http://www.snowperformance.net/forum/


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (websaabn)*

So. I have a question for you guys... I keep getting a "random multiple misfire" and "misfire cylinder 6" code at the top of 3rd gear... 
Any ideas? 
I was thinking maybe my gap was to wide on my plugs? or maybe it just happens on over revs... 
anyways its a v9 2.62pulley, 256s, exhaust, ect. (also running 110octane)
car runs amazing otherwise, and I can't feel the missing... so...
Thanks in advance


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*

swap the wire for number 5 or so, and see if the misfire moves. if so, its the wire. if not, check the plug.


----------



## obdONE.old (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Does anyone know how to get a hold of Todd (bogevr6)? I asked Paul for his email, which he gave me, but it's old and no longer registered. I am wanting some alternate images of the way in which he had the intercooler attached to the fender, etc.








or does anyone have any other images of his car? I really want to see the part on the right that is just cut off, where it is attaching to the fender. It seems a bit short on my setup...


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

*Re: (MexicanPsycho)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MexicanPsycho* »_
how do I extend the maf harness just cut and solder longer wires? thanks

if you are using a vf stage 2 charger for obd1 coilpack, then the kit that i bought also has a box the splices between the maf and ecu as well. anyway, i have the manual that came from vf on a cdrom. i would be curios on the results in your setup.


----------



## v-dubz4lyf (Jun 13, 2005)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*

ive had the exact same problem ever since ive put the kit in and its been driving me off the walls...ive checked and double and triple checked everything and ive pretty much narrowed it down to the tune...when i had the car dynod the a/f was fluctuating while in boost, mainly in the lean side when the problem occurred. as every pass continued it would kinda correct itself...so i ordered a water-meth kit 2day and when i get it in im going to get it tuned and il let u no how it goes....until then, keep me posted..


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (VRClownCar)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VRClownCar* »_









does rotrex have a spring tensioner?


----------



## VRClownCar (Apr 8, 2001)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

that bracket design uses the factory tensioner, it just flips it over


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *v-dubz4lyf* »_ive had the exact same problem ever since ive put the kit in and its been driving me off the walls...ive checked and double and triple checked everything and ive pretty much narrowed it down to the tune...when i had the car dynod the a/f was fluctuating while in boost, mainly in the lean side when the problem occurred. as every pass continued it would kinda correct itself...so i ordered a water-meth kit 2day and when i get it in im going to get it tuned and il let u no how it goes....until then, keep me posted..

Yeah, I ran a SnowPerformance kit on mine for a while, but I was still having the same issues... But, yeah I have been assuming it to be the software as well, I just didn't really want to throw anyone under the bus, considering the rest of VF's stuff is great. 
Although I didn't have this issue today at all.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *v-dubz4lyf* »_ive had the exact same problem ever since ive put the kit in and its been driving me off the walls...ive checked and double and triple checked everything and ive pretty much narrowed it down to the tune...when i had the car dynod the a/f was fluctuating while in boost, mainly in the lean side when the problem occurred. as every pass continued it would kinda correct itself...so i ordered a water-meth kit 2day and when i get it in im going to get it tuned and il let u no how it goes....until then, keep me posted..

i ran lean at the top end for a while when in boost. got myself a 190lph inline fuel pump, solved the problem. the stock fuel pumps wont hold up very well for long.


----------



## [email protected] (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_I am wanting some alternate images of the way in which he had the intercooler attached to the fender, etc.


I would try bracing it to the motor if you can.


----------



## v-dubz4lyf (Jun 13, 2005)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

yes the fuel pump will come with the smaller pully







...but i want to see what il run with just the water-meth kit first...im hoping to break 12's
and just out of curiosity what injectors are you guys running with how much boost, and which fuel pump...post it up plzzz and thank you


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_just got back from picking my car up after having the charge pipe fabricated:










so where did you guys pick up the intercooler?


----------



## obdONE.old (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2PointGoGoGo* »_
so where did you guys pick up the intercooler?

it wasn't a group effort. Anyways, it's custom made and has bounced it's way through the vortex to a few different cars before it came to me. I have no idea who made it.


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*

sorry, I suppose I jumped to the conclusion that it was mass produced when they same intercooler popped up in two different cars.








let me know when you want to get rid of it.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *v-dubz4lyf* »_im hoping to break 12's

goodluck. theres a total of 4 supercharged vr6's in the 12's right now. the more the merrier.


----------



## luckyvr6 (Jan 6, 2009)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

does anyone know what the fastest time is for an unmodified ams kit is at the track?13.2 last nite with mine.2.0 60ft still walkin it off the line.


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_
goodluck. theres a total of 4 supercharged vr6's in the 12's right now. the more the merrier.

hopefully I'll be looking for that number as well this year... well I should say my girlfriend since she wants to drive...


----------



## Mrs.Vortexpert (Aug 19, 2008)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*

question for the group:
1998 GTI VR6 
VF stage 2 supercharger
AFP headgasket
located in phoenix az 110 degree heat
which spark plug to use?
thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## V-dubbulyuh (Nov 13, 2005)

*Re: (Mrs.Vortexpert)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Mrs.Vortexpert* »_question for the group:
1998 GTI VR6 
VF stage 2 supercharger
AFP headgasket
*located in phoenix az 110 degree heat * 
which spark plug to use?
thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


Bkr7e's been working really well here in Florida with high ambient temps and turbo setup, ie probably warmer than your s/c.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (Mrs.Vortexpert)*

BKR8E


----------



## obdONE.old (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*

got some work done over the weekend, more to come:








hopefully I'll be able to clean things up a bit as well, while I'm in there. It would be awesome to pull the motor and do a full rebuild and clean everything up real good, but c'est la vie.


_Modified by obdONE at 9:26 PM 7-13-2009_


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*

jamie, see the foam in the fenders there? remove that, HUGE weight savings


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

on the topic of losing weight, why not ditch the washer bottle and 35' of line? i'm sure there's a bunch of stuff in there that you don't need.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (dr. b)*

as i look at that picture, i think to myself, youll most likely need to toss that battery into the trunk, or buy a smaller battery and relocate it in the bay. maybe between the fender and frame rail. where the wheel well cover is. it looks like you may have relocated your charcoal canister, which youll no longer need now. 
many options, its a matter of what you can live without.


----------



## obdONE.old (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_jamie, see the foam in the fenders there? remove that, HUGE weight savings









way ahead of you, Mike









_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_as i look at that picture, i think to myself, youll most likely need to toss that battery into the trunk, or buy a smaller battery and relocate it in the bay. maybe between the fender and frame rail. where the wheel well cover is. it looks like you may have relocated your charcoal canister, which youll no longer need now. 
many options, its a matter of what you can live without.

The battery most definitely needs to be relocated to the hatch. I already have a 4 awg. wire running to the back from when I used to have a system in there (before some nice NYC resident liberated me from it).
I will also more than likely need to relocate the power steering fluid reservoir. The charcoal canister is moved, but I am thinking of keeping it. we'll see. If I do, I will move it back to the pass. side to its stock location.
I'm sure there will be more to do, even than that. I would like to get the bay as clean as possible, including the wiring, so it's going to take a while for sure.

_Quote, originally posted by *dr. b* »_on the topic of losing weight, why not ditch the washer bottle and 35' of line? i'm sure there's a bunch of stuff in there that you don't need.

How would I wash my windshield then?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*

youre on track jamie. IF you ever decide to race the car, and your battery is i the trunk, make sure ahead of time that whatever regulations are required are followed. the proper box, tie downs, kill switch, etc. also, the power steering bottle fits nicely in the fender/frame rail area as well. opens up quite a bit of room.


----------



## obdONE.old (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Good tip mike. I was wondering where I was gong to put it. Do I reuse the stock bottle or get someing else? Got any suggestions on hat to use if I need something else?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*

Jamie, are you going to be running MAF-less?


----------



## obdONE.old (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Yeah, pauls MS is map sensor based. I'm so excited, no more maf bs! Supposedly it has inputs for both maf and map so it's possible to run both? I don't know, it's over my head. I asks him about it previously and he gave m an aswer but it didn't make much sense to me.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*

If you are just running a filter on the charger, then you could use something like our Power Steering Relocation Kits, to move it out of the way of the AWIC unit.


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Let me ask you this, what happens with the dipstick and tube? It loos like the SRI gets in the way...just checking it out for my own future reference...


----------



## obdONE.old (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: (farfromugen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_If you are just running a filter on the charger, then you could use something like our Power Steering Relocation Kits, to move it out of the way of the AWIC unit.

Shi_t Noah, that's effing SLICK man http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Price tag is a bit steep for me at this point though. My budget is broooooken. You got a non stainless option for like 1/3 the price?










_Quote, originally posted by *farfromugen* »_Let me ask you this, what happens with the dipstick and tube? It loos like the SRI gets in the way...just checking it out for my own future reference...









I've been wondering the same thing lately. I just figured I'd figure it out when I get there. I'll let you know on saturday if no one chimes in before then.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_
Shi_t Noah, that's effing SLICK man http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Price tag is a bit steep for me at this point though. My budget is broooooken. You got a non stainless option for like 1/3 the price?










Polished Aluminum Housing. Stainless would be a lot more expensive and weigh a bit more. Hose, clamps all hardware is included. 
Got to pay to play








If on the budget you can always move your stock one until funds become available.


----------



## obdONE.old (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: ([email protected])*

well, it is super shecksy, for sure...


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Maf clamp*

So i replaced my maf, and I'm still geting a high voltage code, could this be the maf clap? Is there any one from socal that can help me pin point the issue. Again i'm new to dubs and I'm new to fi.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_I've been wondering the same thing lately. I just figured I'd figure it out when I get there. I'll let you know on saturday if no one chimes in before then.

jamie, pull the dipstick and tube out. install the shourt runner, and then feed just the tube thru the runners back into the hole. youll need to either bend it or straighten it out a little bit, but thats it.
unfortunately it will NOT get bolted to the stock located as it used to, unless you have the time to figure out how to make that work. since theres no pressure in the tube, it shouldnt pop out on you. mines been in for a long time with nothing holding it except the stock o ring thats on it, and its fine.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_
jamie, pull the dipstick and tube out. install the shourt runner, and then feed just the tube thru the runners back into the hole. youll need to either bend it or straighten it out a little bit, but thats it.
unfortunately it will NOT get bolted to the stock located as it used to, unless you have the time to figure out how to make that work. since theres no pressure in the tube, it shouldnt pop out on you. mines been in for a long time with nothing holding it except the stock o ring thats on it, and its fine.

thanks for the tip Mike. I will do that. I also need a new dipstick.... will it ever end? lolz.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: Maf clamp (flybye1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *flybye1* »_So i replaced my maf, and I'm still geting a high voltage code, could this be the maf clap? Is there any one from socal that can help me pin point the issue. Again i'm new to dubs and I'm new to fi.

Sounds like your clamp is not wired correctly.


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: Maf clamp (DeckManDubs)*

Nic at vf has looked at it and made sure it was all installed right when the kit was put in. My friends at Abd just installed a 24v stage 2 kit sent by vf on fri and it didn't come with a maf clap, so I'm lost on weather I should try takeing it off and seeing what happens. It the 12v and 24v diffrent when it comes to this maf clap? 


_Modified by flybye1 at 1:50 PM 7-16-2009_


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: Maf clamp (flybye1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *flybye1* »_Nic at abd has looked at it and made sure it was all installed right when the kit was put in. My friends at Abd just installed a 24v stage 2 kit sent by vf on fri and it didn't come with a maf clap, so I'm lost on weather I should try takeing it off and seeing what happens. It the 12v and 24v diffrent when it comes to this maf clap? 

maf clamp, not clap.
anyways, I have heard that ppl. have different results with the maf clamp. some people need it, some dont. try running it without it, and see what happens. try running with the maf unplugged altogether and see how it runs.


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: Maf clamp (obdONE)*

Ok, I will give that a try and let you know how it goes


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: Maf clamp (flybye1)*

It wont hurt anything to run without the MAF. You will just be running in closed loop, meaning that your ECU is running on a defualt fuel map, the same one that it uses when your car is at WOT (wide open throttle). So, when you are not at WOT, you will be dumping a lot of fuel and probably your idle and partial throttle response will be a little choppy due to the excess fuel being dumped into the cylinders. This probably won't help you diagnose and codes you are getting though, it's just so you can see what the difference between MAF and no MAF is.
the other thing you can do is solder the connections between the maf clamp and the maf extension wires, etc. I know VF just gives you crimp connectors with their maf harness extension wires, but sometimes this too can cause a problem.
OR, last but not least, you can ditch the whole thing and go standalone. thats what i'm doing








g/l let us know how it goes.


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: Maf clamp (obdONE)*

I would love to run standalone but I'm holding off on that untill I put on a 12lb pully, I will keep you posted


----------



## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

*Re: Maf clamp (flybye1)*

any of you s/c guys know if it's possible to get just the s/c hardware? brackets, pully setup, blower and whatnot without the software, injectors, chip, etc that seems to come with the kits?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: Maf clamp (ValveCoverGasket)*

usually no. new youll never get that option since no one has them anymore. used, hopefully you can strike a deal with the seller of the kit to get just what you need, and let them sell the rest of the parts.
or buy the full kit used, and sell what you dont need. its very rare to find the brackets for sale by themselves.


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*Re: Maf clamp (ValveCoverGasket)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ValveCoverGasket* »_any of you s/c guys know if it's possible to get just the s/c hardware? brackets, pully setup, blower and whatnot without the software, injectors, chip, etc that seems to come with the kits?

that's how my kit came.....exactly. just gotta find one. i got mine here on the 'tex.


----------



## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

*Re: Maf clamp (dr. b)*

anything to watch for when buying a used blower?


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: Maf clamp (ValveCoverGasket)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ValveCoverGasket* »_anything to watch for when buying a used blower? 

bearings & seals
recently rebuilt sounds good
all the bracket, idlers, oil lines, belt, catch can or anything else you'll need


----------



## KeyDub (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: Maf clamp (EL DRIFTO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EL DRIFTO* »_
bearings & seals
recently rebuilt sounds good
all the bracket, idlers, oil lines, belt, catch can or anything else you'll need

EL DRIFTO is spot on .a;so check the serial. The one i got "only" had "about" 10.000 mi on it. i was able to get 1000 mi out of it before it blew up.when i sent back to vortech, they were amazed to see a 9 YR old charger.







http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
Definetly check the serial. keep us posted
KeyDub http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: Maf clamp (KeyDub)*

I'll post pics of the progress tomorrow, its raining now. I didnt get a lot done, but I got a few important things finished before it started raining.
I have a question though: My stock obd1 throttle cable is not long enough to run comfortably to the SRI and fit in the bracket. How do you guys get it to fit? Judging by the picture of Mike's car, it seems like there is no problem at all. Are the obd2 cables longer than obd1? Am I going to have to run a new cable?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: Maf clamp (obdONE)*

progress pics:
got the VF Engineering idler setup installed:
















it's very slick. It mounts around the alternator, utilizing the stock bolt holes, but longer bolts. Very cool and very well made.

here's pictures of the SRI installed and the problem with the TB cable:
















any suggestions on what to do about this would be appreciated. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: Maf clamp (obdONE)*

Looks good so far...excuse me if I missed this somewhere...but can't you just adjust it to fit? It looks as though it will go if you adjust the grommet closer to the bracket.
Props on replacing the oil drain fitting with the 45 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I think that is such a smart move over the supplied 90


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

You just bend/trist the cable bracket. Use a cresent wrench or padded pliers so U dont mar the surface.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *farfromugen* »_Looks good so far...excuse me if I missed this somewhere...but can't you just adjust it to fit? It looks as though it will go if you adjust the grommet closer to the bracket.


its the overall length of the cable, all the way from the firewall to the end. There is not enough slack in the cable to route it comfortably to the bracket. The distance between the bracket and the grommet is actually fine, I need more cable length before that. I've been talking to Luis about this already and I'm supposed to call him today. We'll see what he has to say about it.

_Quote, originally posted by *farfromugen* »_Props on replacing the oil drain fitting with the 45 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I think that is such a smart move over the supplied 90

I think I got the info on that part from you, actually. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_You just bend/trist the cable bracket. Use a cresent wrench or padded pliers so U dont mar the surface. 

check my above reply. I need more overall length. The cable is just too short...


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*

jamie, can you attach the cable to the tb itself, and then take a pic of how far the rubber grommet is from the actual bracket on the sri for us?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_jamie, can you attach the cable to the tb itself, and then take a pic of how far the rubber grommet is from the actual bracket on the sri for us?

I'll post it up this evening.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*

Made a spacer to get the TB cable out farther when we built this set up.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*

oh yeah, i see the spacer there attached to the TB cable bracket. I don't know if that will be enough for me. That is exactly the kind of slack I need in my cable, but I think I will need more than a spacer to get it. Dunno though.










_Modified by obdONE at 5:15 PM 7-20-2009_


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*

its just odd how you need more slack, and most people dont. ill look at some pics when i get out of work, and see whats up, if anything. i doubt that obd1 and 2 cables are any different, but again, its a vw.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

ok, here we go, more pics. I think that it will work if I either move the bracket or get a spacer like Noah was saying. Obviously the better choice would be to move the bracket.
































what do you guys think?


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*maf clamp*

ok so i started to play with the maf clamp this week, i have a question. Is the gold screw on the tall gray chip were i adjust the sensitivity? if so which way do i turn it to be less sensitive? this is the only part i see that has a adjustable flat head knob.sorry for the crap pics all i had was my cell phone.
thanks guys.


_Modified by flybye1 at 12:33 AM 7-21-2009_


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*my pic*

i figured everyone else has one, so heres mine


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*

Jamie, you're going to need an obd2 throttle cable. Check on German Autoparts. They list 2 cables, one for the obd1 and another for the obd2. I know the obd2 one will work with Juan's manifold without a spacer, so give that a shot.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Jamie, you're going to need an obd2 throttle cable. Check on German Autoparts. They list 2 cables, one for the obd1 and another for the obd2. I know the obd2 one will work with Juan's manifold without a spacer, so give that a shot.

i see it there. will i also need an obd2 throttle body to go with it?
Luis (juan8595) is sending me a new bracket. He suggested i take the SRI someplace local and have them relocate the bracket to work. if you think that the obd2 tb cable is longer though, then i may try that instead.


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

i think i live in a cave, i have never heard of this "maf clamp" mod and i haven't fond much info about it via search, could someone direct my lame mind in the direction to info about this mod?
thanks
also, could we get someone who knows for sure they have a OBD-1 throttle cable to measure there's and also someone with a OBD-2, i would like to know the exact difference cuz im trying to plan out a log style intake for my VR and knowing before hand my options in length for throttle cable would rock!... i am running a random cable i found in the shop while building my car w/ no readable part # on it. but if i find a part # ill post up what it is and how long it is. 
wow this thread is super helpful!.....


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*

jamie, id try the cable first, its cheap enough.
i never thought they were any longer though, but i may be wrong.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: my pic (flybye1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *flybye1* »_i figured everyone else has one, so heres mine

Very nice http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_jamie, id try the cable first, its cheap enough.
i never thought they were any longer though, but i may be wrong.

yeah, i wish i could get a measurement on that. maybe the parts dealer will be able to tell me.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_
yeah, i wish i could get a measurement on that. maybe the parts dealer will be able to tell me.

Just talked with James from FourSeasons and hes going to try and get an exact size for OBD1, OBD2 and Corrado VR6. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Just talked with James from FourSeasons and hes going to try and get an exact size for OBD1, OBD2 and Corrado VR6. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Thanks Phil! I ordered an obd2 cable from DBC Performance just now and Berk verified that it IS a longer cable. He did not have an exact measurement though, so having that from James would still be a great help for anyone else having this problem.


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_
I ordered an obd2 cable from DBC Performance just now and Berk verified that it IS a longer cable. 

That is really weird


----------



## v-dubz4lyf (Jun 13, 2005)

hey guys. i just got my water meth kit in and i wanted to see some different set-ups...post some pics please


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*

tell me how it gose.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: maf clamp (flybye1)*








thanks, i'm sure you'll figure it out


----------



## v-dubz4lyf (Jun 13, 2005)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*

anybody with water-meth???


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*

I did. when I ran it, there is a flat spot on the back of the throttle body pipe that faces the fire wall. makes a solid spot to put the nozzle and then I just ran all of my electronics (pump and computer) in the rain tray, where there is a groumet you can slice and run the hard meth lines through with a pretty straight/short shot to the nozzle.
sorry no pictures. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## 4G63Turbo (Dec 16, 2004)

can anybody tell me how to tighten a belt on a v-1
thanks guys


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

take off the charge pipe, slightly loosen the 2 bolts that hold the charger bracket to the engine bracket, tighten the bolt on the back of the engine bracket (bolt head faces firewall, bolt points to pass side headlight), tighten/replace everything you undid.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (ThaCorradoKid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ThaCorradoKid* »_take off the charge pipe, slightly loosen the 2 bolts that hold the charger bracket to the engine bracket, tighten the bolt on the back of the engine bracket (bolt head faces firewall, bolt points to pass side headlight), tighten/replace everything you undid. 

and if its still not tight after that, your belts too long.


----------



## 4G63Turbo (Dec 16, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

thanks guys, well its a 60.5, with dual idler so i should be fine.
do i need to push the charger towards the firewall when i am tightening the bolt?
and is it necesarry to take the charge pipe off?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (4G63Turbo)*

yup, otherwise its a pita to get to the two bolts that holder the charger bracket to the mounting block. 
to the firewall? not sure what you mean, just keep in mind, lefty loosey, righty tighty. even the tensioner bolt gets turned to the right.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Just got the obd2 throttle cable delivered. It is just about 3" longer than my stock obd1 cable. I will do a full on measurement and take some pics Sunday when I pull the old one and get to work.


----------



## v-dubz4lyf (Jun 13, 2005)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*

thanks for the info dude...i just finished the install...i mounted the pump under the water tray and i converted the washer tank to the meth tank, and i mounted the controller under the dash just above the dead pedal... the car runs great


----------



## 4G63Turbo (Dec 16, 2004)

thanks guys got it all done
she is back at 12psi!
just gotta solve the bogging issue now


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: (4G63Turbo)*

Bogging issue?


----------



## carma (Sep 30, 1999)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (hover)*

Prototype from HPA Typhoon kit (R&D project).
- Originally a VF-Engineering Stg II
- F trim (gen 3 gears) V-9 Vortech supercharger
- 2.62 pulley 
New from HPA:
- Injectors
- CVP short runner
- CVP level 1 downpipes
- HPA air to water cooler
- HPA software 7.2psi @ sea level
- New oil feed line and dump solutions - catch-can, vapor back to intake
- New washer sprayer bottle
- New OEM power steering fluid res (smaller, to make way for tubing)
Dynojet - Check sig for info on the results. ~ 342WHP on 93 octane.








I have some upgrades in the works that I believe will yield another 40WHP. First thing is to swap my V-9 F-trim charger for a G-trim, which will give upwards of 1.5 more psi. I've contacted Vortech and I can probably get the internals swapped for a reasonable cost. This would mean a new impeller and seal. The second thing is to get a water-meth kit installed. 380WHP is my goal, pushing 8.5-9psi on stock compression. Down the road I might do port/polish but that idea is on the back-burner right now.


----------



## v-dubz4lyf (Jun 13, 2005)

*Re: (4G63Turbo)*

i also have a bogging problem...i know 2 others just in my area with the same problem...vf tune sucks dude...
actually, the water-meth kit made a night and day difference with the bogging issue...


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*

When you say bogging, do u me like mine back fire pops or just jumps in the power band? Is the problem from the softwear.


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*

when I ran my WMI it would bog(drop to about 200rpm and then pick it's self up) when coming to a stop, especially after I just took it through the whole rpm range... can't really tell you what the issue was because I removed the system along with changing other things, but needless to say I haven't had the issue since.








I did however run through and change a few parts of the system with little/no change (CTS, maf, plugs, etc) while the system was still on the car.


----------



## slvr bullet (Aug 23, 2005)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*

Did you have to get your car tuned for the w/m kit 
Or do you just make adjustments with the controller? When you say night and day difference do you mean the bogging is gone and now the car feel like it should or the meth Makes it feel even Better than a normal stage 2? Tried to word this right . I'm think about getting it just seeing if it's worth it. Did a/f ratio change with it?


----------



## 4G63Turbo (Dec 16, 2004)

*Re: (flybye1)*

i have c2 chip.
umm when i get on it, from 3000rpm at 4000rpm's to 5500 it has no power(too much fuel?), seems like its getting too much power after 5500 it pulls like a bull


----------



## RedRabbit118 (Jul 28, 2006)

I got rid of the chips and went with a DTA Pro 8 stand alone. In the long run it will payoff due to the flexability of tuning locally and I can always move it to another car in the future. :^)


----------



## RedRabbit118 (Jul 28, 2006)

A question for the pros out there. May be a stupid question but-
I am running DTA stand alone. 
I am trying to figure out what is the best set up for the diverter/blow off valve. I have a Forge with different springs-I am using the blue one,its the heaviest, is it supposed to discharge air all the time? unless I get above -10# on the boost gauge then it closes. This is seriously noisy and irritating especially on the street. You should see the looks I get. :^)
Should I be using a Blow off valve type? welded or clamped to the charge pipe?
Thank you for your advice,
Michael


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (RedRabbit118)*

you dont like that million cfm on tap sound?








have you noticed when you hold your hand over a blow dryer or shop vac, the rpms rise, indicating load coming off the innards with mass movement stopped. BOV is for sound IMO
i haven't tuned standalone on my VR yet, but i heard this:
runner compensation have we all seen in the old aluminium intake... but let me get this straight.. in the oem software they still compensate for more fuel on the rear bank.. i think on the new plastic intake(also 24v) they only have the variabel runner length to add more power from the low rpm(i dont think there is runner compensation,not even in the 24v cams) look at my r36 build..i add 6 widebands for tuning and a ems that can handle fuel on each cylinder,then you will never see the problem.. show us some broken plastic vr6 12v-24v manifolds.. it so easy to see if there is any runner compensation.. 
Modified by VR6-GT42RS at 2:03 AM 7-25-2009

_Quote, originally posted by *VR6-GT42RS* »_im running 3%more on cyl 1 and 5%more on 3&5 on my vr6




_Modified by EL DRIFTO at 2:58 PM 8-2-2009_


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: (RedRabbit118)*

Last night I was driveing around town(doing pulls with a friend)and charger sounded funny, l poped the hood and it sounds like air is passing through the oil line or the charger it's self. It sounds like a wild hissing cat. Any ideas what it may be? I'm not loseing boost but the sound is really loud.
Also I have a stupid question, I think my aux watre pump is going out, could this affect the charger or softwear or preformance of the two. I'm still haveing that bogging or missfire, backfire issue and I'm new to fi. I have no one that can help me, or will help me. If you know sombody or yourself could help me I'm in the LA area and could meet you where ever when ever.thanks


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (flybye1)*

So. I know you guys get this all the time... but I will be dynoing this coming sat. hoping for some solid numbers but more importantly I am hoping for solid A/Fs (I've always been a little skeptical of VF/GIAC software with additional modifications to the kit) 
expecting 230whp hoping for 250whp... and will be stoked for anything more.


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*

When I got mine dyno done with stage one it put out 223hp, I'm going to go to the eurosport dyno day in two weeks and since have added a stage2 pulley and a 262 cam, I'm hopeing for 250hp too


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (flybye1)*

yeah I am running a 2.62 pulley which is a little smaller and is registering about 9-10psi at 7000-7500... just assuming my boost gauge is accurate. I am also running 110, 256 cams and other basic bolt ons (exhaust, phelonic spacer, etc.)


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*

I feel like I killed this thread. sorry.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*









this thread doesnt move that much, dont feel bad.
im waiting on your dyno results http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Hey Jamie, hows the A/A IC setup coming?


_Modified by [email protected] at 11:36 AM 8-6-2009_


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

any update on the lengths of obd-1 vs. obd-2 throttle cables


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (carsluTT)*

mentioned on the prior page. it is longer


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (carsluTT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Hey Jamie, hows the AWIC setup coming?

It's coming along, sorry for no update guys. I only have one day a week to work on it and I won't have time to work on it at all this weekend.








Last weekend I got your power steering relocation kit mounted up. Man is that thing sweet. I was going to ask you if I had the lines attached correctly, but I don't have pics of it to show. I have the straight brass nipple connected to the port on the can that goes directly into the can, and then the hose connected directly to the pump. I did this because I figured the pump wanted the most flow. The 45* nipple is connected to the port on the can that has the restricter fitting inside the can, and then the hose is connected to the hardline that connects to the rack. Is that correct? Beautiful product, http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif for Verdict Motorsports.
Oh, also, it's an air to air intercooler, not water. I wish it was water, but it was free, so I won't complain.

_Quote, originally posted by *carsluTT* »_any update on the lengths of obd-1 vs. obd-2 throttle cables 
 
The obd2 cable is definitely 2-3 inches longer than the obd1. I didn't have time to install the obd2 cable last weekend and take pictures of the actual length difference with them both off the car, as I was working on a few surprises for you guys.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_
It's coming along, sorry for no update guys. I only have one day a week to work on it and I won't have time to work on it at all this weekend.








Last weekend I got your power steering relocation kit mounted up. Man is that thing sweet. I was going to ask you if I had the lines attached correctly, but I don't have pics of it to show. I have the straight brass nipple connected to the port on the can that goes directly into the can, and then the hose connected directly to the pump. I did this because I figured the pump wanted the most flow. The 45* nipple is connected to the port on the can that has the restricter fitting inside the can, and then the hose is connected to the hardline that connects to the rack. Is that correct? Beautiful product, http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif for Verdict Motorsports.


Yep that is correct http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Yep that is correct http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

good! I'm not as dumb as I was fearing.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*

IC statement corrected* http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

I was bored and wanted to put a bigger super charger on the Coupe. Well I purchased on back in January and the quest to make it fit began. Then upon reading the specs of the Vortech V-1 T trim I realized that my oem intake manifold would not handle anymore cmf/boost than what I'm running now. So I made my own short runner. The V-1 is going to be run on its own drive belt. This means the crank pulley is getting re-tooled to have a double pulley in one. All of those pics will be up after the work is completed. Here is the progress so far.









































More to come!!


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 6, 2007)

*Re: (littlenr)*

Nate, that's awesome - so glad to see some cool development being done to the coupe


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*

I'm trying my best to stick to the "custom" theme.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_ The V-1 is going to be run on its own drive belt. This means the crank pulley is getting re-tooled to have a double pulley in one. 

Glad to see you finally pulled the trigger on the V1.








Auxiliary drive is the only way to run a s/c










_Modified by [email protected] at 12:28 PM 8-7-2009_


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

wow- cool stuff going on there.
so are you keeping all the accessories on the serp setup, and just using a cog from the crank>s/c?


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (ThaCorradoKid)*

well I went and dyno'd today. I am happy with the numbers, I'd like to get the A/Fs lower but for the time I can live with what she did. 
sorry about the picture but if you can't read it here are the numbers
run 1: 260.37 max power 210.50 max torque
run 2: 259.04 max power 211.39 max torque
run 3: 256.07 max power 209.07 max torque







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
(edit: sorry, I thought the picture was gonna be much smaller







)


_Modified by 2PointGoGoGo at 2:16 PM 8-7-2009_


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*

dyno numbers look great. the fact that its leaning out uptop - do you have an inline fuel pump? i had the same issue when i dyno'd at 286whp. added a 190lph inline pump, and its perfect now. i actually had to tune out some fuel as it ran a tad rich.


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

nice numbers, cant wait till next week when i get mine done!


----------



## Wedzinga (Aug 25, 2005)

Quick question what are you guys pulling for vacuum at idle?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Wedzinga)*

16-20in at idle. im at about 16 with c2 software and schrick 268's in mine. some people see up to 20"


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

No inline pump, I thought about switching software as well. maybe grab the C2 30# software. I feel like I have plenty of room to grow and with these numbers it doesn't seem to difficult to hit that notorious 300whp number. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Wedzinga (Aug 25, 2005)

weird I am pulling zero vac at idle. Vac leak possibly? I have cat cams 266..


_Modified by Wedzinga at 5:13 PM 8-7-2009_


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2PointGoGoGo* »_well I went and dyno'd today. I am happy with the numbers, I'd like to get the A/Fs lower but for the time I can live with what she did. 
sorry about the picture but if you can't read it here are the numbers
run 1: 260.37 max power 210.50 max torque
run 2: 259.04 max power 211.39 max torque
run 3: 256.07 max power 209.07 max torque







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
(edit: sorry, I thought the picture was gonna be much smaller







)

_Modified by 2PointGoGoGo at 2:16 PM 8-7-2009_

Good #'s there http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Wedzinga (Aug 25, 2005)

weird I am pulling zero vac at idle. Vac leak possibly? I have cat cams 266..


----------



## VR6DPLMT. (Mar 1, 2003)

*Re: (Wedzinga)*

How many in here wanting to do Rotrex?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*

i went lean on the 30# file without an inline, but made a bit more power than you with bigger cams. you may be fine with just the 30# setup. id try that and get yourself a wideband a/f gauge. 300 isnt hard to do, but takes a bit to achieve. getting close to it is the easy part.
0 at idle is a problem. bet your gauge isnt hooked up right(well enough). if the car runs good at idle, id just move the gauge and hook it up closer to the motor, with less line, try to isolate the problem.
my current problem is i see 14-15psi off the charger housing, and only 9psi at the manifold.







cant find a leak, but then again, i have a ****ty tester. need a real compressor to do it. hoping to find some of my boost, and i should be able to make a bit more power then what i currently do.
pretty sure if i went back to the standard setup without the intercooler id make a bit more power since id see more boost, but it wouldnt be as consistent since it would heatsoak the charged air.


_Modified by -THROTTLE- at 7:37 PM 8-7-2009_


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_i went lean on the 30# file without an inline, but made a bit more power than you with bigger cams. you may be fine with just the 30# setup. id try that and get yourself a wideband a/f gauge. 300 isnt hard to do, but takes a bit to achieve. getting close to it is the easy part.


yeah it sounds like an inline might help out later on down the road, but I think C2s 30# should suffice for now or would you suggest that I just bump it up to a #42 set-up? 
The reading was from the tail pipe and I am currently running the stock cat, and I am just throwing this out there but when I put my test pipe in there I'd imagine that the sniffer would get a slightly different reading for A/Fs... opinions???


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*

keep in mind, i went lean on 30# stuff, then stepped up to the inline still using 30# items, and went rich. problem wasnt that it didnt fuel enough, it just wasnt getting enough fuel fast enough.
30# software is good for 300hp, 42# for 400. i know i can make 310-320whp on the 30#, and i know several people, one in particular(turbo) made 425whp on the 42# and still has some room to add more boost.
unless youre looking to make a lot of power, id almost suggest the new 30# tune and injectors, and and inline pump. my 30# injectors and software will be fs soon if youre interested. just give me a few weeks.


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_
unless youre looking to make a lot of power, id almost suggest the new 30# tune and injectors, and and inline pump. my 30# injectors and software will be fs soon if youre interested. just give me a few weeks.

well I run #30 bosch injectors now that came with the VF originally. but as far as software, I would definitely be interested in a month or so. any idea if you will be getting rid of a 4
maf and filter as well


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*

got it. the maf and filter ill be keeping. just incase i ever switch back, i have it already. i suggest you contact juan8595 on here and ask him for a maf housing. hes made up some nice stuff, and im sure he can help you out. let him know i sent you to him.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2PointGoGoGo* »_No inline pump, I thought about switching software as well. maybe grab the C2 30# software. I feel like I have plenty of room to grow and with these numbers it doesn't seem to difficult to hit that notorious 300whp number. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

260/210 not bad http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Could you give some details on your setup? Sorry if I missed it. Charger?Boost?Software?Cams?Exhaust? etc.
A/F is spot on 12-13:1 so I'm not sure why you would change software. It does get "leaner" up top , but you still never even hit 13. Peak power will be 12.5:1-13.2:1. SC cars can't overboost so no need to be overcautious. I run my 12psi, stock compression turbo at 12.5-13:1


_Modified by slc92 at 11:08 PM 8-7-2009_


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Checked out juan8595... his work looks great. and he is cheap. looks like I will be hitting him up when I am ready to grab a SRI as well. 
As for my set up, its a VF stage 2 kit with a 2.62 pulley (about 9psi), GIACs VF software, DSR 256s FI cams, TT 2.5 cat back, New souths phelonic spacer, 30# injectors, 4 bar FPR(trying to help with a little fuel for the cams and extra pound of boost. lol), NGK BKR7E's, and 110 octane... addition info about the set up, no A/C, no SAI, LW steel Flywheel, Stage 1 SB clutch, Peli Diff, and VF mounts
for a while I did run a snow performance WM kit, but I could never get rid of the hunting idle after I laid into it. it drove me crazy







. 


_Modified by 2PointGoGoGo at 5:42 AM 8-8-2009_


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*

interesting, so the 30# software is opening the injectors at a different rate once the oe fuel pump runs out/press drops below the regulator, i've always wondered how they did that since there's no way to keep 4bar fuel press w stock pump & 30#
that's why keeping the pres up with a new pump goes rich
i always wondered how they did that since my **** wouldn't work once the fuel press couldn't be maintained by the oe pump with bigger injectors


----------



## hover (Mar 9, 2005)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

fourseasons and verdict, if you guys want me to put a couple links for you guys on the front page of this thread, just shoot me an IM saying what you would like to have up there.


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

Help,running lean on #2 any ideas of what it could be


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (flybye1)*

injector bad/clogged maybe? swap the injector out with one of the other cylinders, and recheck


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

K I'll give it a try and let u know


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2PointGoGoGo* »_well I went and dyno'd today. I am happy with the numbers, I'd like to get the A/Fs lower but for the time I can live with what she did. 
sorry about the picture but if you can't read it here are the numbers
run 1: 260.37 max power 210.50 max torque
run 2: 259.04 max power 211.39 max torque
run 3: 256.07 max power 209.07 max torque







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
(edit: sorry, I thought the picture was gonna be much smaller







)

_Modified by 2PointGoGoGo at 2:16 PM 8-7-2009_

Nice Tony! Looks like yer putting down a wee more power than VF's posted numbers: 280HP\250TQ at the crank. Now get that lean issue taken care of and you should be good to go! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by Lew_Dog at 8:54 AM 8-10-2009_


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (Lew_Dog)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lew_Dog* »_
Nice Tony! Looks like yer putting down a wee more power than VF's posted numbers: 280HP\250TQ at the crank. Now get that lean issue taken care of and you should be good to go! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by Lew_Dog at 8:54 AM 8-10-2009_

What lean issue? He's in the 12's.
Setup is very similar to what I was running. I had a test pipe and ~2 more psi of boost, but same cam, exhaust, phenolic spacer, charger, etc.
That 110 octane is hurting you. Who makes 110 unleaded anyway? Highest I know of is 109 which is really 105. On a chip tuned car at only 9psi I bet a 93/100 mix would make more power. You just want to see full timing on the chip.
Again nice #'s. The torque seems down by about 10-20 w/ that cam though. Wonder if it's the octane.


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_
What lean issue? He's in the 12's.


*Looks again* OOPs....Yer right...







But he is leaning out a wee bit when he gets closer to redline...Probably due to the cams?


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_
That 110 octane is hurting you. Who makes 110 unleaded anyway? Highest I know of is 109 which is really 105. On a chip tuned car at only 9psi I bet a 93/100 mix would make more power. You just want to see full timing on the chip.
Again nice #'s. The torque seems down by about 10-20 w/ that cam though. Wonder if it's the octane.

Yeah, I thought torque looked on the low side a little. I also have a test pipe, I just haven't had the chance the throw it on yet. 
as for the gas... the 110 is leaded.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2PointGoGoGo* »_
Yeah, I thought torque looked on the low side a little. I also have a test pipe, I just haven't had the chance the throw it on yet. 
as for the gas... the *110 is leaded*.









Oh no!! Your gonna kill your 02 sensors and cat man. Stick with the unleaded stuff. That's all you need anyway.


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_
Oh no!! Your gonna kill your 02 sensors and cat man. Stick with the unleaded stuff. That's all you need anyway. 

yeah I'm not too worried about my cat with having the test pipe and all but I'll see what I can find... around here it just seems to much easier to find 110 over anything above 93. 
and I don't think it would hurt too much changing my 02s at some point being OG and all with 130K on them.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*

Absolutely. O2's wear gradually. Maybe they haven't reached the point of the obd2 threshold to trip a code but that doesn't mean they are working optimally.
Any car I've had w/ O2's over 100k have gone right in the trash can.
I think I use VP 109 (really 105) or Sunoco 100. I'll run my gas low on 93 and then add a couple gallons of the race gas.


----------



## pressplay (Jun 25, 2008)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*

those number looks great. What set up are you running? I have VF Stage 2 with their GIAC and 256 cam. Plan to get it dyno in a few weeks so like to have a good reference point.
thanks


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (pressplay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pressplay* »_ I have VF Stage 2 with their GIAC and 256 cam. Plan to get it dyno in a few weeks so like to have a good reference point.
thanks


basically just that.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_Absolutely. O2's wear gradually. Maybe they haven't reached the point of the obd2 threshold to trip a code but that doesn't mean they are working optimally.

fully agree with you steve. my car ran totally different with the original o2 sensor in it. had 130k on it. replaced it, runs much different. wont say better or worse since its old c2 software, but fueling it under a load is a bit more accurate.


----------



## passatvr607 (Nov 11, 2007)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

hey guy i keep throwing a p0422 my set up is vf stage one i have valve springs 262 auto tech cams bosel header any idea all the values are correct as far as i can tell the o2 heaters read coreect any one have any idea or had this problem before


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (passatvr607)*

most records i found lead to a bad cat. clogged usually, or internally falling apart. best bet is to replace the cat with a high flow unit or test pipe. test pipe will also throw that code though. if you want to get rid of it, high flow or stock cat.


----------



## passatvr607 (Nov 11, 2007)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

i just replaced the cat as well sorry no to add that in there its a bosel cat


----------



## VRC-YA (Sep 2, 2001)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_most records i found lead to a bad cat. clogged usually, or internally falling apart. best bet is to replace the cat with a high flow unit or test pipe. test pipe will also throw that code though. if you want to get rid of it, high flow or stock cat.

Yea, I wonder who went through that headache







Then to find out my O2 was shot also...haha. Now I have to get ANOTHER O2 cause its f'd up again!!!


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

so you think a 262 cam will work well for the supercharger set up?


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_so you think a 262 cam will work well for the supercharger set up?

yes, very well


----------



## pressplay (Jun 25, 2008)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_
yes, very well


Sorry for if this sound like a stupid question. Would you need a software set up that address both the cam and the supercharger? The reason I asked is because the VF/Giac doesn't address the cam and it seems/smells like it's running rich for me.
thanks


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

I run C2 software and it doesn't matter with their tune.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

VF/Giac has run lean for a few modded SC'ed set ups on here. 
C2 seems to be more than fine.


----------



## Kieranp (Oct 25, 2008)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

Thought I’d post up my last dyno run, taken from May this year. 
Spec:
2003 UK/European MKIV R32, stock engine internals etc, VF stage II SC, Milltek tubular manifolds, Hi flow sports cat’s and Milltek rear box, running on 99 octane V-Power. 








The car is now going back to stock while the V9-F goes back to for a rebuild, I might put a Rotrex in it’s place in the future







.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (Kieranp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Kieranp* »_Thought I’d post up my last dyno run, taken from May this year. 
Spec:
2003 UK/European MKIV R32, stock engine internals etc, VF stage II SC, Milltek tubular manifolds, Hi flow sports cat’s and Milltek rear box, running on 99 octane V-Power. 








The car is now going back to stock while the V9-F goes back to for a rebuild, I might put a Rotrex in it’s place in the future







.


good numbers man


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (mk4vrjtta)*

Nice #'s Kieranp


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

anyone make any progress/changes this weekend. 
I gotta run over to the DMV to get the paper work for some vanity plates... I'm thinking Y KNEE VR








Oh and I don't know if this is the right place for this or not, but...
Noah, your guys power steering relocation kit... has anyone ran it with a VF kit with clearance for the pipes and the reservoir







looks like it both wouldn't fit.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2PointGoGoGo* »_
Noah, your guys power steering relocation kit... has anyone ran it with a VF kit with clearance for the pipes and the reservoir







looks like it both wouldn't fit.









Wont fit with the inlet on the pass side, but it will also work on the drivers side, shortening of the hoses that come with the kit would be required. If you really want one it can be done. It will take a couple days to get the shop car apart and everything made up to fit.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2PointGoGoGo* »_anyone make any progress/changes this weekend. 
Noah, your guys power steering relocation kit... has anyone ran it with a VF kit with clearance for the pipes and the reservoir







looks like it both wouldn't fit.









I made a lot of progress this weekend, look for pics after lunch.
They will not both fit on the pass. side of the car. It is possible that you could mount it on the driver's side (the same mounting holes exist on both sides of the car) and modify the hardline with longer hose. I will Let Noah tell you if that would actually work or not though. I have mine installed and it's freaking awesome.
*edit, Noah beat me


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Wont fit with the inlet on the pass side, but it will also work on the drivers side, shortening of the hoses that come with the kit would be required. If you really want one it can be done. It will take a couple days to get the shop car apart and everything made up to fit. 

how difficult would it be to do myself? I don't want you guys to put out your own time/money for one car...


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*

update:
here's a before shot for reference:









and the new:


























































_Modified by obdONE at 4:31 PM 8-17-2009_


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*

looks great! battery relocation go pretty easy? I am thinking about getting all my stuff out of the way now for when I am have the funds to go A/W but I wanted to move the battery to where the passanger seat was.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*

Looking good Jamie


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2PointGoGoGo* »_
how difficult would it be to do myself? I don't want you guys to put out your own time/money for one car...


Yes, you could buy the kit and just shorten the longer line to length. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *2PointGoGoGo* »_looks great! battery relocation go pretty easy?

mk3 or mk4?
mine is a mk3 (obviously) and I already had a 4 awg wire run to that location for an old amp setup, so that part was easy. on the mk3 disconnect the battery in the engine bay and delete the negative cable. move all the positive cables directly to the starter. run a new 4 awg power wire from the starter, through the firewall, to the new location of your choice. take that negative cable you deleted and use it as the negative for the new location. I mounted mine to the seat belt in the back and just sanded the paint down.


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Looking good Jamie









Thanks Phil. It's due in part to you!


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_
mk3 or mk4?
mine is a mk3 (obviously) and I already had a 4 awg wire run to that location for an old amp setup, so that part was easy. on the mk3 disconnect the battery in the engine bay and delete the negative cable. move all the positive cables directly to the starter. run a new 4 awg power wire from the starter, through the firewall, to the new location of your choice. take that negative cable you deleted and use it as the negative for the new location. I mounted mine to the seat belt in the back and just sanded the paint down.


MK3, but yeah I had already started looking for kits, seems like jegs has the most choices. I was just a little unsure about bolting the remaining wires to the starter.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*

yeah, i was looking at the jegs kits myself, but I was not willing to spend $150 on just a relocation kit and then have a wet-cell inside my car. I got that 15lb battery off here for $130.00 and it came with the mounting bracket. I was lucky and didn't need anything else. g/l with it.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*

cars coming along jamie, thats for sure. ive been lazy, and havent gotten too much done to mine, but i will have updates in the next few weeks. may or may not get around to having my parts polished/chromed, but that can also be done durin winter months when the car is stored.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Mike, have you had a chance to work on the Tech install yet? I know how hard it is to find time to work on these things. I've got a 7 month old son and a wife and a house and a job, etc etc etc. I'm lucky that my wife has been cool with this whole thing and lets me work on it one day a week.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (obdONE)*

installed the catch can, deleted all the unnecessary wires / harnesses, cleaned and organized and re-ran the remaining wires, and de-greased and pressure washed the entire bay this weekend. Next weekend will be the wide-band and mega squirt install. I sure would like to hear this thing running again.
*Can someone do me a favor and post a picture of the harness that goes to the air intake temperature sensor? I think I have them mixed up currently.*

Pics are from before cleaning and organizing:


----------



## pressplay (Jun 25, 2008)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_keep in mind, i went lean on 30# stuff, then stepped up to the inline still using 30# items, and went rich. problem wasnt that it didnt fuel enough, it just wasnt getting enough fuel fast enough.
30# software is good for 300hp, 42# for 400. i know i can make 310-320whp on the 30#, and i know several people, one in particular(turbo) made 425whp on the 42# and still has some room to add more boost.
unless youre looking to make a lot of power, id almost suggest the new 30# tune and injectors, and and inline pump. my 30# injectors and software will be fs soon if youre interested. just give me a few weeks.


I am not familiar with injetor # terms, but I called VF and confirmed that the injector in my stage 2 is 330cc. Is that the same as 30# injector?
thanks


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (pressplay)*

yep ^


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_I know how hard it is to find time to work on these things. I've got a 7 month old son and a wife and a house and a job, etc etc etc. I'm lucky that my wife has been cool with this whole thing and lets me work on it one day a week.

thanks, this makes me feel better 
i was wondering if everyone here was divorced


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EL DRIFTO* »_
i was wondering if everyone here was divorced










not yet *crosses finger*


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EL DRIFTO* »_thanks, this makes me feel better 
i was wondering if everyone here was divorced










I'm not ready to give up my projects/freedom, hence why I'm not married yet.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
I'm not ready to give up my projects/freedom, hence why I'm not married yet.









hahaha the wifes car is the project


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (websaabn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *websaabn* »_
hahaha the wifes car is the project









Well you sir lucked out, cause for the average Joe its impossible to get the wife to modify anything except maybe the house. Does she daily the Cabby?


----------



## burnite2 (Jan 14, 2009)

*Re: ([email protected])*

need some advice, still new to the SC game. I’ve heard alot of different things about the VF kits not being able to support cams with the GAIC software. at this point my motor has ported intake, autotech 262 and test pipe with 2.25 exhaust.



_Modified by burnite2 at 2:27 PM 8-31-2009_


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (burnite2)*

you'll be just fine.


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (burnite2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *burnite2* »_need some advice, still new to the SC game. I’ve heard alot of different things about the VF kits not being able to support cams with the GAIC software. at this point my motor has ported intake, autotech 262 and test pipe with *2.25* exhaust.
_Modified by burnite2 at 2:27 PM 8-31-2009_

you're gonna want a bigger exhaust... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

*Re: (burnite2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *burnite2* »_need some advice, still new to the SC game. I’ve heard alot of different things about the VF kits not being able to support cams with the GAIC software. at this point my motor has ported intake, autotech 262 and test pipe with 2.25 exhaust.
_Modified by burnite2 at 2:27 PM 8-31-2009_

you really need a wideband. you might be ok, but knowing > guessing.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (burnite2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *burnite2* »_need some advice, still new to the SC game. I’ve heard alot of different things about the VF kits not being able to support cams with the GAIC software. at this point my motor has ported intake, autotech 262 and test pipe with 2.25 exhaust._Modified by burnite2 at 2:27 PM 8-31-2009_

VF kits are perfectly fine providing you don't do either of the following:
1) Run MORE then 12psi on the V9
2) Run cams with GIAC software. If you can find someone who can make adjustments to the map then you're golden, but I would suggest another fueling kit so you won't run lean.


----------



## pressplay (Jun 25, 2008)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
VF kits are perfectly fine providing you don't do either of the following:
1) Run MORE then 12psi on the V9
2) Run cams with GIAC software. If you can find someone who can make adjustments to the map then you're golden, but I would suggest another fueling kit so you won't run lean.


Do you have any recommendation on a different fueling kit that will work with cams?


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: (pressplay)*

Dose anyone have a 330 injector in good working order forsale?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (pressplay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pressplay* »_Do you have any recommendation on a different fueling kit that will work with cams?

- C2 software works, but they tend to run rather rich. Often times you can make adjustments, dial the fuel back, but they're still essentially a "turbo" tune, so its not 100% and still has the infamous C2 flat spot. 
- GIAC tunes are spot on for the systems they were designed for, but don't like cams. You will run lean with anything other then a stock duration.
- Standalone is costly, but is really the answer if you want to have it flexible. 
- Custom tunes are good for setups that are going to remain a certain way for an extended period of time.
What I'm anxious to try out is Chris Tapp's new Maestro 7 which is written for ME7 (2000+) cars. From what I hear hes working on an ME5 version which will work for OBD2 MK3 cars. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4522132
http://www.eurodyne.ca/eurodyn...e.php
For the ME7 cars this is the answer to all of your chip tunning woas. 
For the ME5/7 guys this will essentially be the answer to your prayers. Adjustable software has always been lacking for these cars and its awesome that Chris is willing to step up to the plate and make it happen.


_Modified by [email protected] at 5:56 PM 8-31-2009_


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (burnite2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *burnite2* »_need some advice, still new to the SC game. I’ve heard alot of different things about the VF kits not being able to support cams with the GAIC software. at this point my motor has ported intake, autotech 262 and test pipe with 2.25 exhaust.
_Modified by burnite2 at 2:27 PM 8-31-2009_

What car/motor? I wouldn't run cams w/ the Corrado/distributor VR6 software. Too many have run lean with it. I had almost the same mods as you and ran ~15:1 from 4500rpm and up.
Pretty sure the obd2(96 and up) guys ran cams w/ no issues


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_
What car/motor? I wouldn't run cams w/ the Corrado/distributor VR6 software. Too many have run lean with it. I had almost the same mods as you and ran ~15:1 from 4500rpm and up.
Pretty sure the obd2(96 and up) guys ran cams w/ no issues

OBD2 tunes seem to react better then the obd1 dizzy cars. However here is a mk4 12v vf stage 2 (8psi) w/262s.








^ Page 5 from this thread.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*

^^
Wow, that's ugly.
I'm not very familiar w/ the obd2 kits/results. I do know the Corrados always dyno'd notoriously low w/VF kits. ~200whp for stage 1 (6psi) and ~220whp for stage 2 (8psi) seemed to be the norm if not on the high side. After seeing a few dynos I think more were running lean than people realized. 
When adding FI to any car you really should have a wideband and gauge. Without it you are really just guessing.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_^^
Wow, that's ugly.
I'm not very familiar w/ the obd2 kits/results. I do know the Corrados always dyno'd notoriously low w/VF kits. ~200whp for stage 1 (6psi) and ~220whp for stage 2 (8psi) seemed to be the norm if not on the high side. After seeing a few dynos I think more were running lean than people realized. 
When adding FI to any car you really should have a wideband and gauge. Without it you are really just guessing.

Agreed. Air fuel ratios are so important and a lot of people seem to not understand whats safe and whats suicide for a F/I engine. The car was actually running so lean under WOT at times it would detonate and pull timing. The spike on the graph was from detonation. We installed C2's 36lb s/w, upgraded the injectors, turned the boost up to 12psi and its been awesome. A/F's were a bit rich, so we ended up having to dial the fuel back actually.


----------



## jkillion (Feb 12, 2000)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Hey guys, great info. FWIW, a friend and I just both ran our SC VF Stage II Corrados back to back on a dyno this weekend. Results were interesting and corroborate what you are saying. 
Mine: Essentially stock motor, stock exhaust (minus suitcase muffler), "8" psi pulley, 30 lb injectors, stock corrado 4bar FPR, GIAC chip, 175,000 miles on engine (rebuilt timing/head at 105,000), Distributor Motor. 
Result: nice smooth torque curve, 
Peak power: 211 HP, 
Lean (about 15:1 at 3k) the whole way but getting richer with RPM all the way down to 13.5:1 at around 6500 RPM
Max Boost: 6psi (barely only right at the end. Didn't crack 5psi until 6200 RPM)
His: Essentially stock motor, Techtonics Borla exhaust, headers, "8" psi pulley, 30 lb injectors, ADJUSTABLE Fuel pressure regulator, C2 chip, 115,000 miles (recent timing chains), Distributor motor.
Result: nice smooth torque curve
peak power: 230 HP
Good AFR (around 13:1 at low RPM and lower than that at high RPM)
Max Boost: approx 6.5 psi
Definitely think lean conditions is a big part of the difference between our two setups. Exhaust probably accounts for the rest. 
What about running and adjustable fuel pressure regulator with the GIAC chip? Couldn't that correct the lean conditions?
Not sure what the stock 4 Bar FPR really gives, but a unit conversion from 4 bar is 58 psi. With the adjustable FPR his ran about 53 psi at idle and increased to about 63 psi at max RPM


----------



## nesisg (Jun 9, 2009)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (hover)*

I've got a '01 12V VR with a VF Stg2 SC. The guy I bought the car from did some goofy stuff to it and I have 3 injectors that don't match the ones that came with the kit. VF said that they use 330cc injectors, but wouldn't tell me the model or anything else. I figure this is the best place to ask this, so does anyone know what model injectors come with the kit or any other information about them so I don't have to give in and buy them directly from VF? Thanks


----------



## burnite2 (Jan 14, 2009)

*Re: (slc92)*


----------



## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

*Re: (burnite2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *burnite2* »_the car is a 92 GLI with a OBD II vr coil pack motor. i want a kit that's reliable and fuss free. this is my daily driver, i just want more pick up but nothing crazy. [/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

buy the Kinetic stage 1 turbo kit. it'll run better than the VF kit, make better power, have an upgrade path if you want to pursue it, and wont have the issues that the VF kits are known for.

[IMG]http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/embeer.gif


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (TBT-Syncro)*

Well, I wont get into a SC vs. Turbo debate in a SC thread.








I will say that if you are going to run a VF kit on a Corrado then run a C2 #30 chip and an adj. fpr if you can. That and a wideband will basically let you tune WOT air/fuel very easily. You'll make more power and the car will noticeably faster. I picked up .3 in the 1/4 just from going from GIAC to C2 and that was w/out an adj. fpr at that time. With a C2 chip, add cams, exhaust, ported head, whatever and air/fuel will stay the same.
As for running an adj. fpr w/ a GIAC chip, I don't think it will work the same. That chip always wanted to bring A/F back to stoich ~14.7:1. I asked VF about it and they said it doesn't just read MAF at WOT like C2 does. I'm assuming it reads O2 as well. I know VF was trying to get CARB emissions certifications on the kits so maybe that's why.
VF stage 2 on a Mk3 or Corrado 12V VR should see 8psi just at rev limit ~7k. I used to see 6psi at 6k. If you aren't seeing that then the belt is loose or you have a boost leak.


----------



## FAINFAB (Jan 2, 2009)

*FIRST TIME POSTER*
MK2 OBD2 VR
Procharger p-600 running 7psi
60lb injectors
Saab intercooler
Just wondering what you more experienced guys would suggest for fueling and software. I would like a specific list of things needed to get it running reliabilly.
Thanks in advance.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (nesisg)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nesisg* »_I've got a '01 12V VR with a VF Stg2 SC. The guy I bought the car from did some goofy stuff to it and I have 3 injectors that don't match the ones that came with the kit. VF said that they use 330cc injectors, but wouldn't tell me the model or anything else. I figure this is the best place to ask this, so does anyone know what model injectors come with the kit or any other information about them so I don't have to give in and buy them directly from VF? Thanks

Do your injectors look like the following?








If so you're probably going to have a hard timing finding those as they're custom. You could always upgrade to 380cc, and space out the fuel rail to fit the taller bosch injectors.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged referenc ... ([email protected])*

i can tell you for a fact, that the OLD C2 30# software still runs rich with schrick 268s and 12psi. i had to dial out the fuel at the top end, but ran a bit lean(13.5+) under 4k rpm.
the new 30# software never ran right for me, but from my understanding, with the same setup as above, it now runs OK under 4k, and 12psi was just too much boost, and it ran extremely lean over 4k rpm. so, if youre doing around 8psi, you "should" be ok with smaller cams.
i will have a set of 30# injectors and software (obd2) fs very soon, once i get my car back...


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged referenc ... (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_once i get my car back...

Can we take this to mean that the Tech3 is currently getting wired ??









MS is installed in my car, but we couldn't get it to start Saturday. We have fuel and spark, so we're thinking that it's probably just our lack of familiarity with the software (we hope). Only problem now is I am going out of the country thursday for 10 days and my buddy who is tuning it will be gone until the end of september, so it may be yet another month before this thing is back on the road...


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged referenc ... (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_
Can we take this to mean that the Tech3 is currently getting wired ??









:cough:haltech:cough:
something like that


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (FAINFAB)*

EDIT
the impedance of my 60 lb injectors is 12.3 ohms
the oe 19 lb injectors is 16.1 ...
FAIL










_Modified by EL DRIFTO at 2:28 AM 9-11-2009_


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged referenc ... (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_
:cough:haltech:cough:
something like that


----------



## FAINFAB (Jan 2, 2009)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

Are the ngk 9s just for the e85? You know i have the GTI that you ate all the lines off the motor with e85 right







I think Im gonna stick to 93 with the ngk 7s.


_Modified by FAINFAB at 12:09 PM 9-1-2009_


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (FAINFAB)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FAINFAB* »_Are the ngk 9s just for the e85? You know i have the GTI that you ate all the lines off the motor with e85 right







I think Im gonna stick to 93 with the ngk 7s.

i'd go with at least 8, but i had to quote that


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Well you sir lucked out, cause for the average Joe its impossible to get the wife to modify anything except maybe the house. Does she daily the Cabby?

yea when its together


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (FAINFAB)*

should be 9 iridiums either way
guess you're going e85 afterall, if you weren't, 60 lb may be a bit fat with gas since you want to keep min fuel pres >22 psi
i wish i could post the fuel pump delivery rate/pres linear chart that's in corky bell's books
fuel pump probs should go away with 60
mine was free but that looks like a deal
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Brand-Ne ... dZViewItem
link fail EDIT oh well 










_Modified by EL DRIFTO at 2:05 PM 9-3-2009_


----------



## FourSeasonTuning.com (Jan 12, 2005)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (hover)*

92 Corrado Distributor Ignition
Before:








Current setup:
V3 SI Trim (No Oil feed or return lines, just a drain for oil changes)
AMS/C2 Brackets These fit the V1 V2 V3 (I had these powder coated black and kept AMS style single idler setup with Vortech made smooth idler pulley)
3.12" Original size AMS pulley made by Vortech in 7 RIB
AMS style belt 61" 7 rib single sided
S/C support bracket
C2 charger inlet pipe
30# Red top Bosch Injectors 
4" round K&N W/ Dry charger
Precision 1005 Air –to-Air IC
Custom Piping from the banned Infinityman Bejan
VDO Intl series Boost gauge
VF-GIAC 8 psi chip from V9 (uses split second MAF clamp)
Engine:
264/260 TT Cams
TT S/S Downpipe
40mm Intake & 35mm Exhaust valves by Ferrea
MK4 HG
Velocity Ported TB
Round collar Intake manifold
Mocal 16 row oil cooler
Peloquin 
































Kept stock intake manifold, A/C, OG battery location, will consider a RS bumper to cover IC when the car is repainted.

Future Plans:
Innovate Wideband LC-1
High flow Bosch fuel pump Intank with Custom Housing
Custom Dyno Tune
Catch Can
Thanks to S4clark, 16V_fonz,,crazymoforz, for bringing







and lending a hand. And to Deckmandubs for S/C support bracket.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (FourSeasonTuning.com)*

^ About time James! Corrado is looking good. Hows the car running?


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged referenc ... ([email protected])*

so... quick question... and it might be a stupid one... what exactly is the charcoal canister for?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (FourSeasonTuning.com)*

I'm liking it James http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged referenc ... (2PointGoGoGo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2PointGoGoGo* »_so... quick question... and it might be a stupid one... what exactly is the charcoal canister for?









for emissions contol. it basically filters the fuel fumes/gases that are created when your full tank of gas decreases to empty. the fumes are then routed through the chracol canister/filter & re-routed to the intake via a chk valve & re-burnt for optimal 'waste' air scavenging/burning/ & emissions control.


----------



## FourSeasonTuning.com (Jan 12, 2005)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged referenc ... ([email protected])*

Thanks Phil.
Runs fine with ISV unplugged but piped in. Belt needs to be tightened even more, have only seen 5 psi so far. The wideband bung was welded in today. I noticed a little fraying on outside of belt edge (IIRC AMS did not have a guard/outside lip on the A/C pulley only inside one towards block, I used the supplied C2 machined A/C pulley that has the guard on both sides just like the OEM pulley. Might remove the pulley and have the outside lip machined down and see if that solves the belt fraying problem.
Will try another DV and a firmer hose from charger inlet pipe to TB inlet piping. The unwired samco DV hose is not as rigid as standard heater hose.
Still not happy with the air filter sitting as low as it is now. When working on the re-tune, I want to see if the air filter can be put on the charger inlet ( like a turbo or the AMS kit was). And relocate MAF above the bumper line.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged referenc ... (FourSeasonTuning.com)*

james, sounds like the belt isnt aligned perfectly. i had that issue with my ac condensor. removed it, and the belt sits flat everywhere.
i had kept both outer edges as well. removing the one edge may be your best bet.


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged referenc ... (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_
for emissions contol. it basically filters the fuel fumes/gases that are created when your full tank of gas decreases to empty. the fumes are then routed through the chracol canister/filter & re-routed to the intake via a chk valve & re-burnt for optimal 'waste' air scavenging/burning/ & emissions control. 


so when I go to remove it, just go ahead and remove the stuff from the inner fender as well...
oh and thanks.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

one more step done!!


















_Modified by littlenr at 6:12 PM 9-4-2009_


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (littlenr)*

MK4 V2 Teaser


----------



## The Popemobile (May 3, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*

looks great Phil!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*

thats how it should be done....nice phil http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (groupracer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *groupracer* »_
















The giddiness has begun


----------



## RedRabbit118 (Jul 28, 2006)

Hi,
I have been watching this thread for some time now in anticipation of posting my ride in here. I am having a challenge with posting pictures, do i have to host them or is there a way to post them in the direct?
tia,
Michael


----------



## vanilla gorilla (Jul 7, 2004)

you have to host them first.


----------



## RedRabbit118 (Jul 28, 2006)

*Re: I want in the 300 club!*

Ok here goes, 
1997 GTI vr6-SC, V2-T charger, 2.5" pulley, big fmic, 42#green top inj. DTA pro8 standalone, SRI, walbro in-line 255, apr rod and head bolts, 9-1 head spacer. I think thats most of it.
Now I want in to the 300 club! :








































it took some doing to get that fmic to fit








I am going to the road course on Monday! I can't wait







Have to get the spliter remounted first though.
Cheers








Michael


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: I want in the 300 club! (RedRabbit118)*

youre running a V2 T trim unit? either im missing something, or its a V1 T Trim. either way, nice numbers. hopefully once my Haltech system is tuned, ill be making that kind of power or more.

edit - nevermind, they do make a v2 t trim. didnt know that. 


_Modified by -THROTTLE- at 4:29 PM 9-10-2009_


----------



## pressplay (Jun 25, 2008)

*Re: Got dyno today*

Here are my dyno numbers for MK4 SC 12v. I didn't get AFR before the SC but now wish I had. The numbers are what kind of expect for a VF Stage 2 given the temperature but AFR is what troubles me. Am I running too lean? Any advise would be appreciated.
thanks


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: Got dyno today (pressplay)*

red X


----------



## pressplay (Jun 25, 2008)

*Re: Got dyno today (2PointGoGoGo)*

sorry, first time. try again


----------



## pressplay (Jun 25, 2008)

*Re: Got dyno today (pressplay)*

third time is the charm


----------



## pressplay (Jun 25, 2008)

*Re: Got dyno today (pressplay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pressplay* »_Here are my dyno numbers for MK4 SC 12v. I didn't get AFR before the SC but now wish I had. The numbers are what kind of expect for a VF Stage 2 given the temperature but AFR is what troubles me. Am I running too lean? Any advise would be appreciated.
thanks









I realized I screwed up posting pictures big times, but I am learning. Here is better pic hopefully I can get some feed back on the AFR.
thanks


----------



## vr6gtiblown (Sep 29, 2007)

I have a vf stage 3 set up and my belt broke, don't remember belt routing, hope someone can help. Thanks


----------



## pressplay (Jun 25, 2008)

*Re: (vr6gtiblown)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vr6gtiblown* »_I have a vf stage 3 set up and my belt broke, don't remember belt routing, hope someone can help. Thanks

hope this help
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1079080


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (pressplay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pressplay* »_
hope this help


Nice numbers man http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Pretty much what I'd expect from stage 2. Nice and easy bolt-on 77whp and the TQ is low keeping the drivetrain safe and traction issues to a minimum.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: I want in the 300 club! (RedRabbit118)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RedRabbit118* »_Ok here goes, 
1997 GTI vr6-SC, V2-T charger, 2.5" pulley, big fmic, 42#green top inj. DTA pro8 standalone, SRI, walbro in-line 255, apr rod and head bolts, 9-1 head spacer. I think thats most of it.
Now I want in to the 300 club! :


Awesome numbers. How much boost?


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

So not to long ago I asked if anyone had a spare injector from a mk4 12v stage 2 kit and got no replys, this sent me searching for a part number but like most I came up with no answers because the part number was removed. This sent me into full attack! I beleave that iv found the answer after hours on the phone, Internet and networking. My injectors were tested on the Rc flow bench and they are not 330 as vf stated to me through an email. I have been givein a part number for the same injector as what came in our kits. I will post picks of the new injectors next to my vf injectors to show there the same. If anyone needs some please feel free to pm me.


----------



## jkillion (Feb 12, 2000)

*Re: (vr6gtiblown)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vr6gtiblown* »_I have a vf stage 3 set up and my belt broke, don't remember belt routing, hope someone can help. Thanks

Here is the diagram that comes with the VF instructions. Of course, it's not quite right because they don't have an idler
















Anyone have a good source for an idler pulley that works with the VF kit?


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

MK4 1.8T idler pulleys are quite good and very adaptable to 'customization'.


----------



## jkillion (Feb 12, 2000)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_MK4 1.8T idler pulleys are quite good and very adaptable to 'customization'. 

Really? Any more info on the subject of said 'customization'? pics?


----------



## The Popemobile (May 3, 2006)

*Re: (jkillion)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jkillion* »_
Here is the diagram that comes with the VF instructions. Of course, it's not quite right because they don't have an idler
















Anyone have a good source for an idler pulley that works with the VF kit?

Actually the VF STG III kits DO have an idler pulley http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## jkillion (Feb 12, 2000)

*Re: (The Popemobile)*


_Quote, originally posted by *The Popemobile* »_
Actually the VF STG III kits DO have an idler pulley http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

That's great - but I don't think they make Stg III for OBD1 Corrado, do they? - wonder if they will sell just the idler pulley...


----------



## The Popemobile (May 3, 2006)

*Re: (jkillion)*

the idler pulley they use is made by Vortech....VF makes most of the parts in their kits, except the charger and pulley(s), and belts.


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: (The Popemobile)*

And injectors


----------



## The Popemobile (May 3, 2006)

*Re: (flybye1)*

and fuel pumps.







we could go on, but I think most here get the point. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## [email protected] (Aug 22, 2006)

*FV-QR*

hey pope!


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (jkillion)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jkillion* »_
Here is the diagram that comes with the VF instructions. Of course, it's not quite right because they don't have an idler








http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/ww192/coolerenergy/VFBeltRoutingDiagram.jpg
Anyone have a good source for an idler pulley that works with the VF kit?[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

go here [URL="http://www.vf-engineering.com/index.php?v=/cat-index.php"]http://www.vf-engineering.com/...x.php[/URL]
scroll down below the stage 2 kit description and look for no air-con option. That is the VF idler kit. I have one on my car and it's quite well made. Costs $200 and comes with a belt (although it's a 6 rib belt).
Go back a few pages in this thread and you'll see pics of it on my car.


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

the way i have my AMS kit set up i have 2 idlers (simmiler to how C2 kids work) makes for a lot of belt contact area. cost me about 25buks in real vw/audi parts to set up this way. basically is a stock vw/audi idler added into my existing mounting bracket. seems to work well. 
how many people still have working AC on there car? i kept my AC, wasn't all that big of a deal getting the pulley machined smooth.


----------



## luckyvr6 (Jan 6, 2009)

*Re: (carsluTT)*

i still have the ac.but for some reason it keeps destroying vortech idler pullies.seems to work out better using a modded stock pulley.its an ams kit btw.


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

*Re: (luckyvr6)*

Bite the bullet and order these from Gruven, or a the very least the idler pulley. It's well worth every penny and since anyone who has spent the money on a S/C, the $$ is inconsequential. I had mine all hard coated for longevity.
http://www.gruvenparts.com/web...d=266


----------



## jkillion (Feb 12, 2000)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_
go here http://www.vf-engineering.com/...x.php
scroll down below the stage 2 kit description and look for no air-con option. That is the VF idler kit. I have one on my car and it's quite well made. Costs $200 and comes with a belt (although it's a 6 rib belt).
Go back a few pages in this thread and you'll see pics of it on my car. 

So I think I see it peaking through in this picture:








Looks nice, but...
does it work with the AC still installed? I'm not willing to give up AC in Atlanta - don't know how you can stand it in TX.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (groupracer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *groupracer* »_Bite the bullet and order these from Gruven, or a the very least the idler pulley. It's well worth every penny and since anyone who has spent the money on a S/C, the $$ is inconsequential. I had mine all hard coated for longevity.
http://www.gruvenparts.com/web...d=266

You don want to run under drive 'power pulleys' with a charger, you'll just be 'under' spinning it & defeating the intention by making less boost


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_
You don want to run under drive 'power pulleys' with a charger, you'll just be 'under' spinning it & defeating the intention by making less boost

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_
You don want to run under drive 'power pulleys' with a charger, you'll just be 'under' spinning it & defeating the intention by making less boost

Gruven makes a regular diameter crank pulley. Thats the only thing that would effect your boost. You can run an underdriven power steering pulley and it will actually allow more rotating power to go towards spinning the s/c, which should decrease the amount of power lost in order to make boost.
I just got the h2o pump pulley because this happened:
















very happy w/ the quality, I would suggest it to any VR owner and especially s/c owner considering what the stock pulley did to me...


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

*Re: (ThaCorradoKid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ThaCorradoKid* »_
Gruven makes a regular diameter crank pulley. Thats the only thing that would effect your boost. You can run an underdriven power steering pulley and it will actually allow more rotating power to go towards spinning the s/c, which should decrease the amount of power lost in order to make boost.
I just got the h2o pump pulley because this happened:

















very happy w/ the quality, I would suggest it to any VR owner and especially s/c owner considering what the stock pulley did to me...

not if you're running a seperate cogged set-up..


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (ThaCorradoKid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ThaCorradoKid* »_
Gruven makes a regular diameter crank pulley. Thats the only thing that would effect your boost. You can run an underdriven power steering pulley and it will actually allow more rotating power to go towards spinning the s/c, which should decrease the amount of power lost in order to make boost.
I just got the h2o pump pulley because this happened:
















very happy w/ the quality, I would suggest it to any VR owner and especially s/c owner considering what the stock pulley did to me...

Blair how'd you make out with the pulley install?


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

what in the world happened to that water pump pulley? iv never seen that happen before.


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

*Re: (carsluTT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *carsluTT* »_what in the world happened to that water pump pulley? iv never seen that happen before.

corrado.


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

*Re: (ThaCorradoKid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ThaCorradoKid* »_
corrado.









dont say that my golf is more corrado than golf..... hell its more corrado than most corrados......


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

FYI- the cogged set up does not includes a cogged WP pulley.
** typically its not the WP pulley that fails, its the internal seal or bearings from belt tension/stress/age
as for 'power pulleys' yes, the alum aftermarket versions are light( even if you choose to run the Alt., WP & PS) but you def dont want these as underdrive.
Lightweight = ok
underdrive w/ a standard crank pulley = Over drive/over charge/etc.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

are the mounts shot on the ride w/ broken WP pulley? looks like it hit the frame rail


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (jkillion)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jkillion* »_
So I think I see it peaking through in this picture:








Looks nice, but...
does it work with the AC still installed? I'm not willing to give up AC in Atlanta - don't know how you can stand it in TX.

yeah, that's it. No, it will not work with a/c still installed. It's basically meant to replicate the a/c pulley to negate belt slack from not having a pulley there.
As far as I know, and someone who knows more please correct me, there are no off the shelf idler options for those runninng v9's and also a/c. I think this has to do with the way the VF engineered the bracket. There is just no room for it.
I can stand to not have a/c because this car is not my daily, just a toy.


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_
as for 'power pulleys' yes, the alum aftermarket versions are light( even if you choose to run the Alt., WP & PS) but you def dont want these as underdrive.
Lightweight = ok
underdrive w/ a standard crank pulley = Over drive/over charge/etc. 

well for the sake of argument lets talk about the gruven lightweight pullys:
they are all oem diameter except for the power steering pulley which is slightly underdriven. I don't think running that underdrive pulley on the power steering pump will have any effect on how fast the charger spins, right? Really, its only the crank pulley that determines how fast all the accessories (and s/c) spin. changing the pulley size on any particular accessory will only effect how fast that actual unit spins, and nothing else....
it seems like the underdriven PS pulley would be a good idea for s/c owners to me. I was considering buying it, but want someone else to confirm my thinking here...

Keith, I doubt the WP hit the frame rail. At least, not in the 4 yrs i have owned it. looks like it happened dropping an engine in, or someone bent it to get better access to change the pump. definitely a weird break though...


----------



## jkillion (Feb 12, 2000)

*Re: (ThaCorradoKid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ThaCorradoKid* »_
I don't think running that underdrive pulley on the power steering pump will have any effect on how fast the charger spins, right? Really, its only the crank pulley that determines how fast all the accessories (and s/c) spin. changing the pulley size on any particular accessory will only effect how fast that actual unit spins, and nothing else....
it seems like the underdriven PS pulley would be a good idea for s/c owners to me. I was considering buying it, but want someone else to confirm my thinking here...


Exactly. That's the setup I have - gruven underdrive PS pulley and stock diameter crank pulley. Great product. The only problem was the underdrive PS pulley is larger than the stock so the belt that VF shipped with their kit was too short







So I ended up getting a 56" belt from autoparts store. It's only 6 rib (soon to be corrected), and that's why I've been wondering about adding an idler pulley with the VF Kit and V9 charger.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

made my own independent drive crank pulley set up
















if you look closely. There is a idler pulley attached to the charger bracket. This will gain tension and belt wrap. The bracket it self allows the charger to pivot by just tightening a tensioner bolt. Then re-securing the pivoting bolt on the charger.


_Modified by littlenr at 7:46 PM 9-15-2009_


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

i know in a mk2 there is lill to no room between the crank pulley and the frame, how is the clearance on other cars? running a 2nd pulley would be nice if it were cogged or something. be much cheaper than doing all the pulleys.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (carsluTT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_made my own independent drive crank pulley set up









Nice Aux drive setup http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

_Quote, originally posted by *carsluTT* »_i know in a mk2 there is lill to no room between the crank pulley and the frame, how is the clearance on other cars? running a 2nd pulley would be nice if it were cogged or something. be much cheaper than doing all the pulleys. 


groupracer has the first Aux drive cogged setup we built. Very nice and if you were to break a belt, the car wont over heat or lose power steering that can tend to cause problems on the street or on the track. 
I believe quite a few R32 stage 4 kits from VF used the Aux drive style setup. 
Aux drive is possible on the MK4's but not on MK2's/Corrado's/MK3's without notching the frame rail. Not impossible but it makes it a non-bolt on setup. 

-Noah


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (littlenr)*

nice own http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
you shouldn't need a cog if you use a spring tensioner on the slack side


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

edited with the entire set up pic. The belt will be here tomorrow.


----------



## jkillion (Feb 12, 2000)

*Re: (Wedzinga)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Wedzinga* »_Quick question what are you guys pulling for vacuum at idle?

I have same question. I finally hooked up a boost gauge (el cheapo: http://www.mcmaster.com/#4004k521/=3nfice)  but should be +/- 2% ). I saw about 13-14 in-HG at idle. Is this normal? 
VF V9 Stg 2 on Corrado
saw 6-7 psi at max RPM but was hard to drive and look at the gauge at the same time. I have the gauge hooked to the manifold where the FPR vacuum line connects to the manifold (closest to stock battery location).


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (jkillion)*

I'm seeing 11" HG at idle.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (jkillion)*

16-20hg, engine braking 28-30hg


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_16-20hg, engine braking 28-30hg

thats about where i'm at.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (jkillion)*

Gauges seem to range depending on the manufactures. The most accurate that I have found has been Autometer. Had it for 5 years and never had a problem. Cams/ring condition/worn valve seats can throw these #'s off.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

with schrick 268's, i see about 15-16 at idle.


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_with schrick 268's, i see about 15-16 at idle.

I see about the same, however I am only running 256s so...


----------



## MR 2.GO (Apr 10, 2007)

*Re: (littlenr)*

Has anyone used/purchase from superchargerrebuild.com
Wondering if anyone has the part numbers for bearings and seals


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (MR 2.GO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MR 2.GO* »_Has anyone used/purchase from superchargerrebuild.com
Wondering if anyone has the part numbers for bearings and seals


Good company to deal with. In fact we use them for rebuild kits. As far as part #'s go, not off hand.


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

has anyone had there older v1 upgraded to the new SI trim impeller? at sema last year i spoke to them about rebuilding my unit and the vortech guy was all about pushing the SI impeller on me..... wonder if its wroth the extra cash and just how much they really charge for it.


----------



## FourSeasonTuning.com (Jan 12, 2005)

*Re: (carsluTT)*

I upgraded a V1-S trim to a V3-SI. Really wanted to reuse the used V1 so I sent it back to Vortech for the standard rebuild service, although it was not possible. Unknowingly it had partially clogged oil feed that caused bearing and case damage (previous owner was severally lacking maintenance).
Vortech gave me a $1000 credit towards a new V3. Standard Rebuild service was quoted at $325 w/o case or impeller damage. However with this charger, new case housings were needed ( pushing the price past $700 for the older style that still needs oil feed and return lines) the choice was clear to get the new style.
Can't really comment on V1 vs V3 boost as I never drove it with V1. Still working on some belt issues, have yet to see more than 8 PSI. Looking for 11-12 PSI, just got the wideband hooked up
so higher rpm testing and more boost is in the future.


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

*Re: (FourSeasonTuning.com)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FourSeasonTuning.com* »_
Can't really comment on V1 vs V3 boost as I never drove it with V1. Still working on some belt issues, have yet to see more than 8 PSI. Looking for 11-12 PSI, just got the wideband hooked up
so higher rpm testing and more boost is in the future.


I think you need a cogged set up...


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)




----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

*Re: (FourSeasonTuning.com)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FourSeasonTuning.com* »_I upgraded a V1-S trim to a V3-SI. Really wanted to reuse the used V1 so I sent it back to Vortech for the standard rebuild service, although it was not possible. Unknowingly it had partially clogged oil feed that caused bearing and case damage (previous owner was severally lacking maintenance).
Vortech gave me a $1000 credit towards a new V3. Standard Rebuild service was quoted at $325 w/o case or impeller damage. However with this charger, new case housings were needed ( pushing the price past $700 for the older style that still needs oil feed and return lines) the choice was clear to get the new style.
Can't really comment on V1 vs V3 boost as I never drove it with V1. Still working on some belt issues, have yet to see more than 8 PSI. Looking for 11-12 PSI, just got the wideband hooked up
so higher rpm testing and more boost is in the future.

what size pulley?


----------



## FourSeasonTuning.com (Jan 12, 2005)

*Re: (ThaCorradoKid)*

3.12


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (FourSeasonTuning.com)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FourSeasonTuning.com* »_3.12

youre at the right psi for the pulley. get the one i told you about and youll see slightly more boost. havent found the ac pulley yet tho...


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_
youre at the right psi for the pulley. get the one i told you about and youll see slightly more boost. havent found the ac pulley yet tho...

on the 3.12, 8psi is the reasonable peak boost @ redline. I have however seen 11psi after a few consecutive hard runs @ about 7k rpms. My theory is that after 3 or so hard runs, the belt gets hot from the inevitable amount of slipping, and then "sticks" a little better...


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

*Re: (ThaCorradoKid)*

If you are going all the way to redline (7000+) you should see 10-11 psi with a 3.12 pulley. It became known as an 8psi pulley because AMS had to lower the redline in their kits as the stock injectors they used could not supply enough fuel up top. Lower redline obviously equals lower boost. Since every V1 kit that came after was just a copy of the AMS the 8psi name for the 3.12" pulley was copied as well even though it is not accurate.


----------



## sgt snuffles (Aug 16, 2007)

*Re: (littlenr)*

Nate that Charger is looking sick







i sure do miss her! 
i awate video por favor


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (sgt snuffles)*

Got a question for you guys, where does one pick up an OBD1 distributor GIAC chip from? I'm getting a used V9 kit but it comes with an OBD2 C2 chip which is useless to me. Who sells the chip I need? thx.


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

*Re: (ZEBLOR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ZEBLOR* »_Got a question for you guys, where does one pick up an OBD1 distributor GIAC chip from? I'm getting a used V9 kit but it comes with an OBD2 C2 chip which is useless to me. Who sells the chip I need? thx.









even better update ur car to 0bd-2........ hahaha...... that's what i did so i could get better tunning for my car. wasn't all that hard.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

What does everyone use for idler bearings? I keep shredding the ones I'm using. I guess its not a high speed bearing.


----------



## The Popemobile (May 3, 2006)

*Re: (littlenr)*

http://www.summitracing.com/pa...w=sku


----------



## FourSeasonTuning.com (Jan 12, 2005)

*Re: (littlenr)*

C2 used the 1.8T Idler roller along the with Vortech one above^.








http://www.fourseasontuning.com/?product=758


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

PM sent to 4 seasons!!


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

im using the 1.8t style. all u need is a spacer and bolt to install it onto a AMS mount.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (carsluTT)*

my set up is way different than anyone elses. The 1.8t bearing will work.
Here is the system after the 1st start up.
http://smg.photobucket.com/alb...9.flv


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

*Re: (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_my set up is way different than anyone elses. The 1.8t bearing will work.
Here is the system after the 1st start up.
http://smg.photobucket.com/alb...9.flv 

where is the DV at in ur setup?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (carsluTT)*

it comes off the back side of the charge pipe. I use a huge Forge unit from a Evo9. Big ports over and 1". And the just loop it around with radiator hose back to the intake.


----------



## sgt snuffles (Aug 16, 2007)

*Re: (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_my set up is way different than anyone elses. The 1.8t bearing will work.
Here is the system after the 1st start up.
http://smg.photobucket.com/alb...9.flv 

ughhh sweet jesus, that sound is BEAUTIFUL! great job nate!


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (littlenr)*

You going to be making it to H2O Nate?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

I'll be there if this idler pulley gets here tomorrow and I get everything back together. I grabbed a bearing off the shelf and found out its not a high rpm one.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (littlenr)*

nate, looks and sounds good dude http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
just got mine done/back. basic tune, no dyno time yet. after h2o i will def get onto the rollers and dial it in with the help of some good friends. pics:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

that should be fun Mike!


----------



## kzy247365 (Dec 10, 2006)

*Re: (littlenr)*

W/O having to look thru this entire thread... What head gasket is everyone running? i got a V1 used to hit bout 10lbs before my rings went







. Well still does but not w/o the lost of about a qt of oil. Ima have to do a rebuild soon and want to get an idea of what goodies to buy. Any suggestions will be appreciated. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

was running MK4 10.5:1, just changed to a schimmel 9.4:1


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (kzy247365)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kzy247365* »_W/O having to look thru this entire thread... What head gasket is everyone running? i got a V1 used to hit bout 10lbs before my rings went







. Well still does but not w/o the lost of about a qt of oil. Ima have to do a rebuild soon and want to get an idea of what goodies to buy. Any suggestions will be appreciated. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Stock mk3 if you're going to stay below 350whp. Under 400whp I'd go with a 9.4:1 like Keith's running. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## kzy247365 (Dec 10, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*

How is that 9.4 head gasket. Is it still making as much power? you still running 15lbs of boost?
Thanks!!!


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_nate, looks and sounds good dude http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 









Mike, this picture brings up a question I have been wondering about for a bit.
your coolant hose going from the block to the heater core, that used to split off to the TB, is that just straight heater hose now? Any problems with that, due to not having the pressure restrictor on there anymore?
same question for the small coolant line going to the evap bubble.
I have clamped screws in the ends of my hoses right now and it looks like SH_T! I hate it. But I was worried about not having those pressure restrictors in the hoses.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*

no issues at all bro. it is straight heater hose, and the line to the bottle was just cut and run there. no over heating, no pressure build up, nothing.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_no issues at all bro. it is straight heater hose, and the line to the bottle was just cut and run there. no over heating, no pressure build up, nothing.


good to know, I'm going to have to do that myself.
My buddy who is helping me tune is out of town, I haven't done anything to the car in almost 4 weeks now. It's KILLING me! Hopefully we'll get it up and running soon.


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Question*

I was driveing the other day and my supercharger belt ripped lenth wise, any ideas to why? The belt has maybe 2k miles on it and iv never seen a belt tare like this( in half ). Could this belt brakeing cause any crank problems or any real problems for that matter?


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

tooo tight. the ribs can cut through the back side & basically shred the belt. 
What brand of charger pulley? C2's ribbed ones were like rasors.


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

Vf stage2 with a v9


----------



## pressplay (Jun 25, 2008)

*Re: Question (flybye1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *flybye1* »_I was driveing the other day and my supercharger belt ripped lenth wise, any ideas to why? The belt has maybe 2k miles on it and iv never seen a belt tare like this( in half ). Could this belt brakeing cause any crank problems or any real problems for that matter? 

most likely too tight. This happened to me also but it pulled off my water pump pulley as well. You might want to get a belt tension gauge to make sure it's not over tighten. it's a little pricey but worth it. 
http://www.automotivetoolsonli....html


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: Question (pressplay)*

That's a good idea, i didn't even think about one of these


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: Question (flybye1)*

don't know if this has been covered yet but how does one remove the pulley off of a V9?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: Question (ZEBLOR)*

little update for you guys. ran the car last night. 12.3,12.5(belt snapped)12.4...
car weighs a ton still, and i need to get used to the new power to get my 60fts down, but here it is so far on a rough tune(still need dyno time)


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: Question (-THROTTLE-)*

what exactly do you mean by 


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_
car weighs a ton still










what slicks are you running, 22's?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: Question (2PointGoGoGo)*

23's, and the car is 2808 with me in it, 2588 without me. i come in at 220 with gear on.


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: Question (-THROTTLE-)*

dang that sounds about where I would be sitting... I thought you were almost completely gutted.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: Question (2PointGoGoGo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2PointGoGoGo* »_dang that sounds about where I would be sitting... I thought you were almost completely gutted.

far from it. just the rear seats out, and nothing in the trunk. very simple and basic weight reduction...time to rethink things to get lighter...


----------



## vr6 nitrous (sweden) (Dec 18, 2002)

*Re: Question (-THROTTLE-)*

few years ago!
rotrex sp3094 charger 1.4bar at 7000rpm and a small 60hp shot nitrous on 3rd and 4th gear
around 450hp
http://videos.streetfire.net/v...3.htm


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: Question (vr6 nitrous (sweden))*

nice. i remember your car. we are looking to go 11.85 without nitrous. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## vr6 nitrous (sweden) (Dec 18, 2002)

*Re: Question (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_nice. i remember your car. we are looking to go 11.85 without nitrous. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif no problem with sticky mt drag ,my 60 fot with bf dragradials 205/50-15 was 1.9


----------



## Flyweight (Jan 15, 2007)

Well my car dropped a crank bearing...at 8 or so psi...on a re-manufactured motor...FROM VW! I can't believe it! Has anyone else had this happen??? Or does God just hate me?


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (Flyweight)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Flyweight* »_Well my car dropped a crank bearing...at 8 or so psi...on a re-manufactured motor...FROM VW! I can't believe it! Has anyone else had this happen??? Or does God just hate me?

they come with a 1yr/12mo warranty through VW. 
Just get that charger off there come inspection time http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

some progress:
http://vimeo.com/6897479 (I don't know how to post video, anyone know how?)
just a startup tune for now. Real tuning to begin shortly, hopefully.


_Modified by obdONE at 3:38 PM 10-5-2009_


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_some progress:








just a startup tune for now. Real tuning to begin shortly, hopefully.

Congrats Jamie. You're finally on the final leg of your build








On another note, some development pics of the MK4 V2 setup:
















Still some work to be done and a couple weeks road testing / dyno tuning.
Stay tuned


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Congrats Jamie. You're finally on the final leg of your build








On another note, some development pics of the MK4 V2 setup:
















Still some work to be done and a couple weeks road testing / dyno tuning.
Stay tuned









I like what i see


----------



## all-starr-me (Jul 14, 2003)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Stock mk3 if you're going to stay below 350whp. Under 400whp I'd go with a 9.4:1 like Keith's running. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

What charger, setup and pulley is seeing 350-400 WHP?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (all-starr-me)*

350whp using a V1 has been done a few times...400whp, we have yet to see that out of a vortech unit.


----------



## Flyweight (Jan 15, 2007)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_
they come with a 1yr/12mo warranty through VW. 
Just get that charger off there come inspection time http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

Unfortunately, I did not make the one year deadline because I purchased it through a secondary source (not vw). Sucks.


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (Flyweight)*


_Quote, originally posted by *all-starr-me* »_What charger, setup and pulley is seeing 350-400 WHP?

V1S with 36lb or 42lb tune will net you close to 350whp @ 16-17 psi w/cams.
V1T with 42 or 60lb tune will net 400whp on 16-18 psi w/cams. 
Keep in mind the Ttrim nets 20% more flow over the standard V1. The V1/V2 Si (Vortech's most recent addition to the V1/V2 series isn't too far behind @ 15% more flow then the S.
V1S - 1000cfm
V1T - 1200cfm
V1/V2Si - 1150cfm

_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_350whp using a V1 has been done a few times...400whp, we have yet to see that out of a vortech unit.

If memory serves me correct VF made 401whp with their R32. Keep in mind thats AWD, so the drive train loss is higher the FWD.


----------



## kzy247365 (Dec 10, 2006)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*

Looks like Ima go with stock MK3 head gasket APR studs 15lb pulley, 42lb injectors, and tune. What cam should I throw in the mix? Rest of the engine will stay stock. I am itchin to get my SuperVR back in tip top condition http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif and if I hit the magical 300whp mark I will be happy. I'm not trying to break any records, just the ego of those mustang and camaro owners


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (kzy247365)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kzy247365* »_*ARP* studs

unless you foresee taking your head off again several times, I say skip the ARP studs. Stock are MORE than adequate and waaaaaaaaaay cheaper.


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (kzy247365)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kzy247365* »_Looks like Ima go with stock MK3 head gasket APR studs 15lb pulley, 42lb injectors, and tune. What cam should I throw in the mix? Rest of the engine will stay stock. I am itchin to get my SuperVR back in tip top condition http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif and if I hit the magical 300whp mark I will be happy. I'm not trying to break any records, just the ego of those mustang and camaro owners









256 or 262 depending where you want your power band to start/end.


----------



## kzy247365 (Dec 10, 2006)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*

Have cams and their effects when combined with S/C'd VR's been discussed yet? If not, what durations and results have our fellow S/C'd VR's experienced?


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (kzy247365)*

Haven't been around in a time to look the thread over. Anyhow it's about time to do some of the good major maintenance on the 12v, timing chains, lower guides, probably gonna hit the head gaskets and other seals/gaskets while I'm at it. 
Clutch is good, but I want to drop the stock monster dual-mass flywheel and am somewhat torn between say an OEM style single mass at 17.5 or a lightened at 13.5 vs. our 23lb beast. 
Anyone had experience with both? I'm not a terribly huge fan of heavily lightened flywheels and the 13.5 sounds a LOT lighter being almost 10lbs off. Anyone have the 17.5 and can say how significant the change is there?
thanks for your experiences and facts.


----------



## sgt snuffles (Aug 16, 2007)

ive got the eurospec 7.5lb, havent had one problem in 15k yet. 10k being boosted supercharged, and now turbod... they do howl alot when winding down... gotta be real good with a clutch since the Revs drop instantly.. but it makes a world of difference


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_Haven't been around in a time to look the thread over. Anyhow it's about time to do some of the good major maintenance on the 12v, timing chains, lower guides, probably gonna hit the head gaskets and other seals/gaskets while I'm at it. 
Clutch is good, but I want to drop the stock monster dual-mass flywheel and am somewhat torn between say an OEM style single mass at 17.5 or a lightened at 13.5 vs. our 23lb beast. 
Anyone had experience with both? I'm not a terribly huge fan of heavily lightened flywheels and the 13.5 sounds a LOT lighter being almost 10lbs off. Anyone have the 17.5 and can say how significant the change is there?
thanks for your experiences and facts.









The 13lb flywheel IMO is the lowest you'd want to go. I dunno how much you like chatter, but from experience anything less then that is going to wrap around and drive you nuts. The 13lb unit weighs enough that its not too jumpy and you can actually drive it in traffic. Deckmandubs has a TT with a 9lb and you wish you had an auto when you come into traffic. We ended up raising the idle 200 rpm to make it stop sounding like a diesel.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

my 10lb flywheel makes lots of chatter at 1st start up and until cold start is over. Then after that is quiets down a bit.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (kzy247365)*

go with the big cams
go with the shorty mk4 HG if you can
the only arp a vr needs r rod bolts over 500whp
the other two ghetto folks reusing oe headbolts over & over 
haven't had any problems either


----------



## kzy247365 (Dec 10, 2006)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

I'm hesitant to go with the MK4 head gasket. Does it raise the compression too much for 15lbs of boost?


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

OEM head bolts stretch, quite a bit too when torqued to 70# (50# as per Bentley, 70 as per Schimmel). I broke 3 doing so. 
I would def. not re-use these. Especially as cheap as they are. 
I used the MK4 HG w/ my 15# OBD 1 set up, I needed a custom tune from C2 to work around it. I just put in the Schimmel 9.4:1.
I use an Autotech 10# Billet. Its light enough. I personally wouldnt want lighter on my daily/city driven car. 
* Vaporado is getting rid of his LW FW if anyone is interested. 
The problem w/ too light is that when the rpm's drop so quickly, sometimes stalling becomes an issue as either the ISV or MAF & O2 can not adapt quickly enough.


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (kzy247365)*

I know this is off topic, but I haven't posted any pictures of the car in here, but this is how she sits as of this morning. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## kzy247365 (Dec 10, 2006)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*

So am I less likely to need a C2 tune if I go with the MK3 VR Headgasket?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*

looks good, except for the shelled car with door cards still intact. I would get rid of those.


----------



## FourSeasonTuning.com (Jan 12, 2005)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

If your car is a 12V then you have a single mass that is 17.75 w/ ring gear.Dual mass were used on the 1.8T and 24V VR6.
There are a few other choices. 
Autotech steel billet about 11.75-12 LBS w/ ring gear. 
Eurospec Cast 13.8 w/ ring gear
Autotech Alloy 8.3-8.75
The Steel billet has been our best seller.
http://fourseasontuning.com/?product=7


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_looks good, except for the shelled car with door cards still intact. I would get rid of those.

yeah, I'm trying to figure out what to do with those... and still have everything funtional for now... I thought about going to the junk yard and finding manual window regulators to make throwing some sheet aluminum over them easier... but, I need money for that... http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## Flyweight (Jan 15, 2007)

My 7.5lb eurospec flywheel does chatter a bit. That said it is one of the best modifications I have done to the car. Acceleration in lower gears is much improved and heel toeing is much easier. It takes some getting used to in traffic but after one week of driving with it its no problem at all.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

i've heard of new bolts breaking out of the box
at least someone else tried http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
i only reuse them once 
i also don't strech them 180 degrees extra 
since the used ones reach their max linear strength once they start streching @ all
the huge flywheel kept the motor together one time i put it in second instead of fourth & it didn't spin all the way up before i noticed & pushed the clutch back in


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

Are my safe to run a 12lb pully with 310cc injectors on a mk4 12v(v9)


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (kzy247365)*

i saw 14psi with an OLD c2 chip using a mk4 hg. i still use the same hg, just see a bit less boost now bc its intercooled, but never had problems.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (flybye1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *flybye1* »_Are my safe to run a 12lb pully with 310cc injectors on a mk4 12v(v9)

They're good for 300whp, so as long as you don't go beyond that you'll be fine.
For those talking about MK4 head gaskets stay away if you have power goals over 300whp. The compression ratio is hardly noticeable compared to the stock MK3 and will give you headaches down the road when it comes time to upgrade.


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*

hey phil, I know it was brought up before but for the power steering relocation kits, will you be making it an option to be used on the other side? for the sc boys?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2PointGoGoGo* »_hey phil, I know it was brought up before but for the power steering relocation kits, will you be making it an option to be used on the other side? for the sc boys?
















Yes driver side will be an option, just haven't done much with MK3s lately to test fit and take measurements for the hoses. I'll be doing some work on my car this week, so we'll get that taken care of. Check on the site over the weekend and it should be up there.


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Anyone know what size belt I should us on my stage 2 vf kit (mk4 12v)? As most know I don't like vf and would like not to buy it from them. Any help would be great.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (flybye1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *flybye1* »_Anyone know what size belt I should us on my stage 2 vf kit (mk4 12v)? 

I don't know if it's different for a mk4, but for my mk3, I'm running this one:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GTR-4080530/ 
It's an 8 rib, so you'll have to cut one rib off.
I have the stage 2 pulley, which is 2.7" and also the VF a/c delete or idler or whatever you want to call it, so if you're running a/c it should be the same.


----------



## pressplay (Jun 25, 2008)

*Re: (flybye1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *flybye1* »_Anyone know what size belt I should us on my stage 2 vf kit (mk4 12v)? As most know I don't like vf and would like not to buy it from them. Any help would be great.

I read some where the length for the 24v was 1430 mm, about 56 inches. I found a 7 ribbed double sided Gates belt from Napa Auto that was 1400 mm or 55 inches that pretty close to VF's MK4 12v. It was about 1/8 inch shorter compared to VF. I ended up using the VF for their belt to play it safe, but the Napa belt, D070551 was the closest I found.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (pressplay)*

I used a eurovan belt on my S/C R32 running a 2.62 pulley on the charger pn dk070551 the pn broke down 07 = 7 rib 551 = 55.1 inches


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (websaabn)*

Same here! When I was running a vf kit thats what belt I used with my V9. Eurovan belt.


----------



## vanilla gorilla (Jul 7, 2004)

guys, I've done some searching through this forum and the manual trans forum but does anyone have any recommendations for a clutch for a vf stage 2/3 12v? Someone said south bend stage 4 but that seems a bit extreme. 
Let me know your thoughts.
PS - awesome thread...keep it going.


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (vanilla gorilla)*

have a southbend stage 1 for 25K+ and a vf stage 2 for 10K+ and no problems... its more then enough. since they are rated it Ft.lbs. and the blowers really don't create much. you would probably even be fine with a stock clutch for a while.


_Modified by 2PointGoGoGo at 3:11 PM 10-7-2009_


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (vanilla gorilla)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vanilla gorilla* »_guys, I've done some searching through this forum and the manual trans forum but does anyone have any recommendations for a clutch for a vf stage 2/3 12v? Someone said south bend stage 4 but that seems a bit extreme. 
Let me know your thoughts.
PS - awesome thread...keep it going.

Stock is more than sufficient http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (vanilla gorilla)*

I always use clutchnet clutches,
I have a 6 puck with their green pressure plate in my wife's car and its awesome, also have a friend running a organic unsprung disk with the green pressure plate in his daily, it feels awesome as well. you will find with a supercharger you don't need a real aggressive clutch to hold the power.
http://www.clutchnet.com/search.php?mode=search


----------



## 1991vrowner (Oct 7, 2009)

*Re: (websaabn)*

right im not actually replyin butcause im gettin use to this whole forum thing im new to all this im 17 years of age an i want to supercharge my vr engine but first what i want to but first is it adviseable
im buyin a vr6 engine with low miles what i want to do is get it bored to 3 litre size pistons with balanced crank shaft an forged pistions and conrods so i have high tolerances again an no wear in the engine block, i want to put high lift cams in the head with TI springs and all that etc, what valves will i need to get to be able to handle the tolerances of high revs cause i would like to chip it to eight and half revs to nine thousand revs, would it be best to get both engine block an head skimmed a little and what kind of gasket would i be lookin for to get low compression so i can put a v2 supercharger on an i want full power out of this baby somethin that i dont have to keep rebuilding oviously just to servic it all the time what injectors will i need and type of gasket ecu, manifold and how will i get full potentional out of it i want at least 350 hp to the wheels can any one help me money is not my concern at the moment but please if you could help me out it would be much appreciate alot thanks rob


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (1991vrowner)*

skip the 3.0 setup, no point. keep it stock, or, if your block needs to be bored bc the cylinder walls are oval, then 2.9 at most. you wont need forged pistons/rods to handle the power a supercharger will make. watch how high of a lift cam you get, as too much wont help you either. most guys run 256's or 262's with aftermarket valve springs and stock retainers. you wont find a "chip" that allows you to rev over 7200rpm. standalone engine managment is the only way to do so, and unless you race the car and try to run real numbers, you wont need much more than 7200rpm anyway.
350whp out of a supercharger is a task in itself. you want those numbers, go turbo. most basic turbo kits will set you up at 350whp with just an off the shelf 42# chip and injectors. now, you say money isnt a concern, then step up, build a completely forged 2.9 block, get a raceshop head with titanium everything, big valves, etc, and go turbo along with standalone and a quaife 6spd trans. money will then almost definitely become an object.
now this is just my opinion, bc i was 17 once as well. 350whp is a lot of power for someone your age. im 26, and just make over 300whp, and its enough to get me into trouble on the street, and run 12.3's at the track. whatever you do, goodluck, and be safe


_Modified by -THROTTLE- at 8:01 PM 10-7-2009_


----------



## vanilla gorilla (Jul 7, 2004)

thanks for the clutch advice guys. I'll look into the clutchnet clutches. 
Thanks for the link


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (vanilla gorilla)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vanilla gorilla* »_guys, I've done some searching through this forum and the manual trans forum but does anyone have any recommendations for a clutch for a vf stage 2/3 12v? Someone said south bend stage 4 but that seems a bit extreme. 
Let me know your thoughts.
PS - awesome thread...keep it going.

I ran a stock disc w/ my VF stage 3 setup and it never slipped. I was only making 236wtq. Centrifugal SC's are easy on clutches. Low torque, it comes on linear, and late in the rpm band.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_
I ran a stock disc w/ my VF stage 3 setup and it never slipped. I was only making 236wtq. Centrifugal SC's are easy on clutches. Low torque, it comes on linear, and late in the rpm band.

Good point Steve. 
Same here, 313whp on stock clutch/flywheel.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (FourSeasonTuning.com)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FourSeasonTuning.com* »_If your car is a 12V then you have a single mass that is 17.75 w/ ring gear.Dual mass were used on the 1.8T and 24V VR6.
There are a few other choices. 
Autotech steel billet about 11.75-12 LBS w/ ring gear. 
Eurospec Cast 13.8 w/ ring gear
Autotech Alloy 8.3-8.75
The Steel billet has been our best seller.
http://fourseasontuning.com/?product=7

Thanks very much for the clarification. Never did find out what was the single or dual mass. 
So having a single mass, I'll look into the new flywheel once I have $ again since I just had to order a couple of struts.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 1991vrowner (Oct 7, 2009)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

okay so do 2.9 on the safe side cause idont want oval pistons just to be safe do you know where i can get a specific head gasket for that an what type of compression i will need,
an you say it wont like benefit if i go any higher then 262 on cams why is that i thought the bigger the number the more revs or is it the case the wheels will just spin an wont get anything down?
and standalone engine management doesnt the ecu have to be remapped or something for like the fueling system and to say that its got a supercharger if you see where im coming from, but surely if i also did forged pistions an conrods an balanced crankshaft it would rev up free'er so i would be able to get more horsepower because there wont be as much restrictions so what is the most whp i can get with a supercharger an what supercharger would i be lookin to purchase like you got 300whp but whats that in bhp at the flywheel? like people that say they have 400brake ford conteners that wont be at the wheels is there a big drop from whats at the wheels to whats at the flywheel?
and thank you for this, its a massive help


----------



## vanilla gorilla (Jul 7, 2004)

jesus thats alot of questions. you will find the answer to most of those if you start a page 1 of this thread and read your way through. I thought i knew alot about FI and then i read through this and learned a TON


----------



## kzy247365 (Dec 10, 2006)

*Re: (1991vrowner)*

I have always heard that there is a 20% loss from the crank to the wheels. 300whp = [email protected]


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (kzy247365)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kzy247365* »_I have always heard that there is a 20% loss from the crank to the wheels. 300whp = [email protected] 

I don't think there is any set number here, there are a lot of factors that come in to play. (transmission types and rotating mass[es] to start)
I'm sure some of the other guys will chime in with detail. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## kzy247365 (Dec 10, 2006)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*

Good point, 20% is a rough estimate http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

loss can be 'estimated' for WHP. Different dynos will have varying loss. I think the amount is a bit closer to 16-17%.


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

yea i always heard 15% for fwd, 20% for awd. obviously rough estimates


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (ThaCorradoKid)*

yeah, I've always heard similar stuff... like 15% for manuel cars and 20% for autos...


----------



## rhussjr (Aug 7, 2000)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*

On my old Jetta before the supercharger, it made 160 hp to the wheels (based on the factory 172 hp at the flywheel) with the manual trans, pulling in 4th gear on a Dynojet 248. That calculates out to a ~7% loss with the only mod being a 2.5" exhaust, so a relative 10% is foreseable. With the addition of the supercharger, it made 265 hp. This was with stock injectors and a stock chip. The AMS chip would not work reliably in the ECU (non-start condition that could be cleared by unplugging and replugging the ECU to the harness). The system that I built using the V5 that I sold made 308 hp to the wheels. It is good to see more Mk3 and even the Mk4 guys sticking with the chargers, especially the home built option. If I sell my R32, I will end up doing another Mk3 with a supercharger.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (rhussjr)*

got a new belt on the car. saw belt slip with the other one, and missed out on some boost. should see whats up come sunday at show & go. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## juan8595 (Jan 16, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

mike what time are you leaving on Sunday, it may be easier to get a hold of you in here lol


----------



## vwguin (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (hover)*

very helpful and informative thread


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (juan8595)*


_Quote, originally posted by *juan8595* »_mike what time are you leaving on Sunday, it may be easier to get a hold of you in here lol
























call you in a little bit. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 1991vrowner (Oct 7, 2009)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (vwguin)*

can any one tell me the tempatures for 1st and 2nd stage for the radiator fans to kick in please


----------



## vlkslvr (Dec 5, 2000)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_got a new belt on the car. saw belt slip with the other one, and missed out on some boost. should see whats up come sunday at show & go. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

What's up is winning heads up Quick 8 against the turbo cars at show and go today.
Congrats on the win and the new PB man. Chipping away at that 11.99 pretty quickly.




_Modified by vlkslvr at 6:06 PM 10-11-2009_


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (vlkslvr)*


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (1991vrowner)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1991vrowner* »_can any one tell me the tempatures for 1st and 2nd stage for the radiator fans to kick in please 

totally depends on your fan switch.


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

Well, im not new in the forum but my first post out of the clasified it this.
Last week, I recieve my SC Setup from Kyle (Dub_Slug) and friday, its already installed. Here some pics of my setup. My car its totally stock before the supercharger, only 2.5 full custom mandrel exhaust.








































































And the Victim
















sorry for the bad quality of the pics. Any opinnion or comment will be apreciate!
Now i need to Software and injectors to feel the SC power


----------



## vanilla gorilla (Jul 7, 2004)

Rafi, are you running that without a tune or software? Is that the VF kit?


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

*Re: (vanilla gorilla)*

Well, im using it like a daily driving car, for now, i dont abuse and get it WOT. Just cruising.


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (vanilla gorilla)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vanilla gorilla* »_Rafi, are you running that without a tune or software? Is that the VF kit?

well it says, AMS on it, so I am gonna go ahead and assume its that. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

If im correct, its an AMS kit with C2 upper charge pipe and intake.


----------



## vwguin (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (Bo0sted_Rafi)*

will running Genie headers be an issue with a supercharger.....
I'm looking to get a supercharger kit.
i'm running Schrick 268s with Schrick valve springs and retainers... trans has G60/ Vr6 gearing and 3.94 r&p... with other mods too..
any suggestions????


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (vwguin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwguin* »_will running Genie headers be an issue with a supercharger.....
I'm looking to get a supercharger kit.
i'm running Schrick 268s with Schrick valve springs and retainers... trans has G60/ Vr6 gearing and 3.94 r&p... with other mods too..
any suggestions???? 

No problems providing your not running a MK4 HG. Should bull like a mofo with that setup. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## vwguin (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*

nope no mk4 hg.... been wanting to run a sc kit in my corrado for some time and was pointed to this thread.... read throught most of it.... very informative.....
now i jusst have to finish my corrado and sell/trade stuff for a good sc kit..


----------



## vwguin (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (vwguin)*

any suggestions on kit, software, fueling???
thanks


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (vwguin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwguin* »_any suggestions on kit, software, fueling???
thanks

Unless you plan to go standalone, a C2 30# chip and Bosch 30# red top injectors will fuel up to ~300whp on your Corrado and run very well. Get a wideband and adjustable FPR (not rising rate) to dial in A/F at WOT. An in-line pump isn't a bad idea past like 10psi. 
As for the kit, I had a bad experience w/ VF and the V9. I would go V1 or V2.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_
Unless you plan to go standalone, a C2 30# chip and Bosch 30# red top injectors will fuel up to ~300whp on your Corrado and run very well. 

yup, proven to be true. also, dont go crazy and get a walbro 225 inline, you wont need it. jeff (C2) suggested a 150-190 when i looked into one. i got the 150, and its perfect. 
youll make 250-275whp easy on a v1 with c2 software and enough boost. anything over that will take other mods, cam, etc.
i should be dyno tuned tomorrow, and ill have new numbers then. look out steve


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_
i should be dyno tuned tomorrow, and ill have new numbers then. look out steve









Wow







I better get back out there. 
I might have some new #'s for you next Friday


----------



## vwguin (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

I have schrick 268s already.


----------



## vanilla gorilla (Jul 7, 2004)

guys, i just put up mk4 12v VR6 ecu with VF stage 3 software in the FI classifieds if anyone is interested.


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Thats the setup im looking for my car. Just need the injectors and software. 
I just looking for 280whp and my car only got the supercharger kit with 2.5 custom mandrel exhaust without cat and resonator with oem cat. The pulley is the 2.87" (12psi if im correct)
what do i need? 

Another thing is, i got 6 g60 injectors, you think its better if i use it for now until find the c2 stage 1? If I install those injectors for now, im gonna need a afpr? Need some advice please


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Bo0sted_Rafi)*

just get the right software and injectors. that way you wont have issues right off the bat. youll be close to 280whp with your current setup. might need cams to help you get the rest. but again, get the software and injectors, worry about the cams later


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

I have a set of mkIII 36# injectors for sale. Make an offer. I'm moving up to 42#ers.


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

*Re: (littlenr)*

But wich software its good with those injectors?


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

you have to match injector to software to your ECU. its not a pick & play kinda deal
MK3 OBD2 VR is 42# by C2
Corrado OBD1 30#
G/J OBD1 36#
G/J OBD2 43#
C2 is pretty much the only software available you can buy new, by itself.

Someone mentioned that Corrado 30# was good till 300hp, its good till more like 280.
At this point you start to pull timing & reach MAF limits as well as injector's max duty cycle on the 'stock' C2 chip.
Been there, done that!
I now have a custom C2 tune, I gained aprox 20+ hp w/ the tune (301whp) but its far from perfect. I am at max duty cycle from the 30# & am occasionally maxing the MAF voltage readings. 
Nothing can be done, going 36# wont help. this is the ceiling of the 3" Rado max.
Options would be a OBD2 swap
or
another tune based on a 4" MAF & 42#. However the rado 6wire MAF & ECU is not directly compatible w/ the 4pin MAF.
Until someone/Jeff wants to figure out the harness & offer a re-mapped tune, chip the best option is to go standalone or OBD2
(* Jeff is not so fond of Rados or OBD1, the opportunity has been there many times. You are likely to see a man walk on the sun before this tune is available for purchase).


----------



## vwguin (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

a C2 30# chip and Bosch 30# red top injectors will fuel up to ~300whp on your Corrado and run very well... 
is this true when running Schrick 268s????

looking for a V1 or V2 charger..


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_
Someone mentioned that Corrado 30# was good till 300hp, its good till more like 280.
At this point you start to pull timing & reach MAF limits as well as injector's max duty cycle on the 'stock' C2 chip.
Been there, done that!


319whp, 323wtq SAE corrected on a Corrado 30# tune and stock MAF. That's on the 2.5" exhaust. The car is 2-3mph faster now so probably more like 330-335whp on the stock MAF. 
You are right about the injectors maxing at ~280-300whp. I had to add ~6psi of fuel pressure. Those #'s are also w/ some 100 or 105 octane added so I'm probably seeing full timing.



_Modified by slc92 at 8:37 AM 10-15-2009_


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (vwguin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwguin* »_a C2 30# chip and Bosch 30# red top injectors will fuel up to ~300whp on your Corrado and run very well... 
is this true when running Schrick 268s????

looking for a V1 or V2 charger..

It will be fine. That's the beauty of a MAF tuned car. It sees more air and it adds more fuel. The only issue is that the cams will flow more air so you'll max injectors at less boost. Injectors will max at a certain airflow, how you get there is up to you


----------



## vwguin (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (slc92)*

oh ok.... thanks for that info..... kinda new to the boost thing.... 
would C2 30# chip and Bosch 30# red top injectors be a good set up for my corrado with 268s??? i have more mods to my car done too..


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwguin* »_would C2 30# chip and Bosch 30# red top injectors be a good set up for my corrado with 268s??? i have more mods to my car done too..

dude, pay attention. Your question was just answered in the post above:

_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_
*It will be fine.* That's the beauty of a MAF tuned car. It sees more air and it adds more fuel. The only issue is that the cams will flow more air so you'll max injectors at less boost. Injectors will max at a certain airflow, how you get there is up to you


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (obdONE)*

I have a little bit of an exhaust question here. Firstly, I noticed after I supercharged my 12v, the exhaust actually was quieter until I was in the upper RPM ranges, no problems there, just an interesting item. 
Anyhow, going to be expanding the exhaust from 2.5 w/ highflow cat to 3 from DP back and a larger DP. 
My question is, will deleting the resonator make life painful? Will it see any gains or benefits? 
Currently a Stage 2 VF (V9), Stage 2 Snow Perf water/meth, Autotech 262, lifters, springs, etc, phenolic spacer, soon to have an SRI, MSD ignition conversion. 
I only really ask to squeak what I can out of it and since it seems a good bit quieter, I was wondering if the loss of the resonator would keep me still... feasible on the street. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

Good info. I just need someone who sell the stage 1 software to me
does the 2.9 intake manifold its a good upgrade?hp gain?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_
dude, pay attention. Your question was just answered in the post above:


a few times actually. your v1, with 268s, at 12psi, will fuel properly, just get an inline pump as well. i mentioned that on the previous page.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Bo0sted_Rafi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bo0sted_Rafi* »_Good info. I just need someone who sell the stage 1 software to me
does the 2.9 intake manifold its a good upgrade?hp gain?

as i told you, youll need the 95mm maf to run c2 software. you cant get around it.


----------



## vwguin (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Ok... Just wanted to make sure. Now I gotta get me a sc kit wih a v1. Thanks everyone.... What kind of issues did ppl have with the V9s??? 


_Modified by vwguin at 7:26 PM 10-15-2009_


----------



## Dubbed_Monk (Feb 18, 2004)

*Re: (vwguin)*

I would have to say the V9 has a high failure rate and less potental, than any v1 or v2 i've seen.
I bought a new VF stage 3 kit when they had a sale during tax return season.
The problem I had with my v9, is it keeped leaking from the intake side. So oil was always leaking down the intake tube and covering my MAF on my mk3 jetta. 
In the end, I went through 2 new units and 2 rebuilds from VF.
VF was helpful in resolving my issue with this kit.
But my car sat more than it was driven after the charger.
I don't think it's VF's fault, but maybe bad quaility control at Vortech. 
VF had mentioned, they think it might be a bad mold for that batch or something. hmm.......
Either way, VF should not be selling the kit if there is such a high failure rate on the v9's.
In the end, when i got the new v9 replacement. I put the stage3 kit up forsale. before i knew, it I had sold the entire car and now moved on......

A brief run down of the set-up I had:
mk3 vr obd2 with VF stage3, DSR 256 cams, TT dp & borla exhaust, test pipe, snow perf meth kit, clone mani, peloquin, catch can (vented to air)........... etc..
if you do a search on here, which I should of done before buying a v9 kit.... You'll find threads of people having the same issue with the VF's v9 kit.


----------



## vwguin (Apr 12, 2002)

*Re: (Dubbed_Monk)*

Thanks for that info. Continuing the search for a V1 or V2.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (vwguin)*

Look on Ebay. Its the same charger that is used on the mustangs, and other V8 cars. Fourseasons makes sells the new re-pop versions of the C2 brackets. IF you want to fit this on a mkIII or older Vr. If you want it to work on a MK IV either my self or Verdic Motorsports can hook you up.


----------



## 24vMayberry (Oct 5, 2009)

*Re: (littlenr)*

I own a 2003 tip vrr6 jetta. I would really like a vf kit stage 1 or 2. would this be a bad idea on a tip? Not sure if anyone has tried.


----------



## v-dubz4lyf (Jun 13, 2005)

*Re: (littlenr)*

hey guys quick question...im currently running a v9 with 8lbs of boost... i plan on grabbing the 12lb pully from c2..what are some things that i need to acompany that upgrade?..what fuel pump should i use?...do i need a tentioner?...
help me out


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *v-dubz4lyf* »_hey guys quick question...im currently running a v9 with 8lbs of boost... i plan on grabbing the 12lb pully from c2..what are some things that i need to acompany that upgrade?..what fuel pump should i use?...do i need a tentioner?...
help me out


I would suggest getting the pulley from Vortech directly as the C2 ones are very abusive on belt life. On 12lbs your stock fuel pump will be fine. Making the jump from 8 to 12 is really just a software upgrade. You can toss in some cams and a high flow downpipe or header for some extra top end power.


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: ([email protected])*

I called them in the past and they told me vf has a diffrent offset on there pullys, is that true?


----------



## The Popemobile (May 3, 2006)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *v-dubz4lyf* »_hey guys quick question...im currently running a v9 with 8lbs of boost... i plan on grabbing the *12lb* pully from c2..what are some things that i need to acompany that upgrade?..what fuel pump should i use?...do i need a tentioner?...
help me out


say bye bye to your charger...the V9 cannot handle more than 10lbs boost...if you want to upgrade, get a V1 or V2 charger


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (The Popemobile)*


_Quote, originally posted by *The Popemobile* »_
say bye bye to your charger...the V9 cannot handle more than 10lbs boost...if you want to upgrade, get a V1 or V2 charger

I know it can't w/ alot of belt tension, but might be able to w/ a cogged setup. I think they lowered the max rpm of those chargers on Vortech's website. Used to be 60000-65000 IIRC which was where a 2.25" 11-12psi pulley was at. I think it's lower now probably due to the amount of V9's they had to eat under warranty.


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (slc92)*

The V9 will handle 12psi all day long without a lot of tension (cogged), but once you step into 13-14psi kiss it goodbye.


----------



## The Popemobile (May 3, 2006)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MeCarTay* »_The V9 will handle 12psi all day long without a lot of tension (cogged), but once you step into 13-14psi kiss it goodbye.

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif thanks for clarifying that.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (The Popemobile)*

little update:
got tuned on a mustang dyno last week. they read low, so i didnt post numbers yet. im going to redyno at bruces speed shop in rockaway, where i made the 303whp on chip tuning.
i ran 12.1 with 280whp(mustang numbers), and when it was tuned, drove off with 302whp(again, mustang numbers). so we expect around 330whp or so. either way, we picked up 22whp and some torque from just tuning the car right. heres the mustang dynosheet:









from what i read online, mustang dynos are 10-15% lower than dynojet numbers, and dynojets are more accurate. so, 330-345whp is the guesstimate, and also what im hoping for.


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

whats new in your setup to get those new numbers?


----------



## The Yoda (Nov 28, 2005)

*Re: (Bo0sted_Rafi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bo0sted_Rafi* »_whats new in your setup to get those new numbers?

All from a different tune http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
That 11 is around the corner


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: (The Yoda)*

From my understanding vf made a 15lb pully for the v9 but stoped selling it due to bearing issues, iv been told by c2 aswell as vf that a 12lb would be safe for a v9


----------



## The Popemobile (May 3, 2006)

*Re: (flybye1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *flybye1* »_From my understanding vf made a 15lb pully for the v9 but stoped selling it due to bearing issues, iv been told by c2 aswell as vf that a 12lb would be safe for a v9

they're wrong...I know of one local, and three other VF cars running V9's in "stgIII" guise all having input bearing issues running 11 psi. the load on the bearings is too great if you want no belt slip.....
others with this issue, I am sure will chime in


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (The Popemobile)*

11.5psi w/ VF's rec. 150ft-lbs of belt tension. That lasted all of ~2k miles before the bearings got so bad the impeller hit the housing and damaged both. I'll never look at a Vortech SC again and especially not a v9.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (The Popemobile)*


_Quote, originally posted by *The Popemobile* »_
they're wrong...I know of one local, and three other VF cars running V9's in "stgIII" guise all having input bearing issues running 11 psi. the load on the bearings is too great if you want no belt slip.....
others with this issue, I am sure will chime in

On the money there. There are a few tough V9's out there. But the vast majority of them will not survive 12psi with lots of belt tension. The cogged setup allows them to operate at 12 for a much longer period of time. However this is still not a total solution to the problem. The real solution is to upgrade to a V2/V1/V3 blower that have more air flow capabilities and much more reliable. 
What might help everyone understand is that operating a charger at 100% of its capabilities will only shorten the lifespan of the charger. With any mechanical component, operation at maximum will shorten the lifespan of the component. Heat, harmonics and speed all have effects on the lifespan of the blowers.


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Will the V1 & v2 Work with my vf pipes? Would I also need new softwear when changeing the charger? Is one better than the other. What other parts would I need to change to run a diffrent charger. Thanks


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (flybye1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *flybye1* »_Will the V1 & v2 Work with my vf pipes? Would I also need new softwear when changeing the charger? Is one better than the other. What other parts would I need to change to run a diffrent charger. Thanks

I'd love to know the same stuff... as i'm running stage 2, my v9 has had to have been rebuilt once already.. don't particularly trust it... 
Love to know how to shoehorn a V1/V2 in there... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

I can't imagine you would need to change anything, aside from the charger and the brackets. You can get brackets for a mk3 12v from fourseasons tuning and Verdict. the only thing i would think is maybe the inlet and outlet of the charger would be a slightly different diameter on the v1/v2 than the v9, but all you would need is a silicone reducer if that is the case.
software won't be any different, I wouldn't think. I suppose the GIAC software is rather limiting as it is, so if you wanted to go with C2 to get a bit more out of it, then that's your choice. after my experience though, I wouldn't recommend it.
It seems a bit silly to me though, honestly, for you guys with a working V9 setup to be thinking about upgrading to a V1 with new software, etc. a v1 by itself is in the neighborhood of $1000 used, plus c2 software, injectors, MAF housing, etc etc etc. you're talking about a lot of money to get not a lot more HP out of your setup.
I love my charger, thats why i decided to go standalone, and really go for the gold, but I'm still running my V9. If I blow it, I will probably just rebuild it. I can't imagine upgrading to a V1 unless I come across one for really cheap.
i can get a turbo and a manifold (all I would need to convert) maybe slightly different intercooler piping, for WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY less than upgrading to a V1, so I just dont see any point.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Intakes and discharges are the same size on the V1-V2 and V9.
I made my own bracket to put a V1 on a mkIV.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_
I'd love to know the same stuff... as i'm running stage 2, my v9 has had to have been rebuilt once already.. don't particularly trust it... 
Love to know how to shoehorn a V1/V2 in there... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 









Soon to be available to the public http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*

It should also be noted that Vortech has a new V1 called the Si. There are also two aftermarket impellers you can now purchase for the V1 giving added boost and air flow at all RPM bands. One sells for about 495 and is fully CNCed out of billet.


----------



## The Yoda (Nov 28, 2005)

*Re: (Scooter98144)*

Been a while since you i've seen you around the forums Scott. Any new changes to the s/c car?
Chris


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_








Soon to be available to the public http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

soon to be on my R32


----------



## The Popemobile (May 3, 2006)

*Re: (Scooter98144)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Scooter98144* »_It should also be noted that Vortech has a new V1 called the Si. There are also two aftermarket impellers you can now purchase for the V1 giving added boost and air flow at all RPM bands. * One sells for about 495 and is fully CNCed out of billet.* 

that is actually built by 928 Porsche Guru Carl Faucett, and it works beautifully. add to the fact that the CNC'd unit will allow you to run more rpm's....and well, you see you might be able to get closer to turbo #'s with a fully worked on head.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Scooter98144)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Scooter98144* »_It should also be noted that Vortech has a new V1 called the Si. There are also two aftermarket impellers you can now purchase for the V1 giving added boost and air flow at all RPM bands. One sells for about 495 and is fully CNCed out of billet. 

got a link for us?


----------



## The Popemobile (May 3, 2006)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_
got a link for us?

http://www.928motorsports.com
Vortech V1/V2 Impeller Upgrade
http://www.928motorsports.com/...r.php


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

*Re: (The Popemobile)*

Been working at home as a jeweler here so I parked the car for over a year now. But I am looking for a full time paying job and if that goes through I want to get back into working on the car.
Would like to find out if there has been any software updates to the OBD1 C2 chip in the last two years?
http://www.928motorsports.com/...r.php 
That just looks so cool. Do that and ceramic bearings and push some nice boost.


----------



## The Popemobile (May 3, 2006)

*Re: (Scooter98144)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Scooter98144* »_
http://www.928motorsports.com/...r.php 
That just looks so cool. Do that and ceramic bearings and push some nice boost.

actually, Carl suggest NOT going ceramic bearings, as they are LESS tolerant to the thermal changes they will see....just upgrade to HD bearings


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

*Re: (The Popemobile)*

I was wondering that as well. I noticed there are different classes like 5, 7 and 9? Does it matter much?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (Scooter98144)*

anything abec7 or higher is good. The abec 7 is good to the 55000 max impeller speed of a v1-t trim.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (The Popemobile)*


_Quote, originally posted by *The Popemobile* »_
http://www.928motorsports.com
Vortech V1/V2 Impeller Upgrade
http://www.928motorsports.com/...r.php

Are you running his impeller upgrade Pope?


----------



## The Popemobile (May 3, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Are you running his impeller upgrade Pope?

not yet.....I have it ready to install but want to empirically test and report to the group so they can see it's worth the cost.
I need to finish up some other work, then get the SRIM intake adapter and such from you folks. with this, I will dyno the car to show what that work provided, then I will swap out the impeller and dyno post to get back-to-back real #'s.
I have seen this impeller used in several POC/PCA 928's that race, and I know it works in that application in a Vortech unit.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

*Re: (The Popemobile)*

So does any one know if there has been any updates to the OBD1 C2 software in the last two years. Mine runs ok but has never been as good as I would like...
Or I need to move the MAF a lot farther from the charger inlet.
Things like stalling as you come of a freeway. Have always bugged me.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (Scooter98144)*

The short answer is no, there have not been. I had 3 different chips and changed just about ever sensor on my car, deleted the ISV altogether, etc etc etc and it never made any difference. Those problems coupled with my miserable dyno of 208whp forced me to mega squirt and have never looked back. 
If you really want more out of your setup, SEM is the best way to go. Good luck http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## The Yoda (Nov 28, 2005)

*Re: (Scooter98144)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Scooter98144* »_So does any one know if there has been any updates to the OBD1 C2 software in the last two years. Mine runs ok but has never been as good as I would like...
Or I need to move the MAF a lot farther from the charger inlet.
Things like stalling as you come of a freeway. Have always bugged me.

Put the ATP chip back in


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (The Yoda)*

scooter, didn't you make 310whp? I find it surprising that you have complaints. I mean, I probably wouldn't have gone down the road I am going had I made that kind of power. Seems as though you've got it pretty good with a chip tune.


----------



## The Yoda (Nov 28, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*

He made 310 on the ATP chip, not sure if he re-dyno'd with the C2 stuff or not.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (The Yoda)*


_Quote, originally posted by *The Yoda* »_
Put the ATP chip back in









agreed. C2s software did ok for me, but was far from good enough for reliability. got standalone now, and ill never go back to a chip tuned car.


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

*Re: (The Yoda)*

Yea that was a long time ago. I have no clue what it is doing now that it is running 9-1 and has a schrick 248 cam set and intercooler. I have had the car parked for a little over a year but when I start working again I will do some updating.
I need to address the belt slipping and wearing out to fast problem. Maybe get that brace or use some shims. Not sure what the best way to check alignment is though.
That new blower wheel looks so cool though drool drool... 
I think some of the issues I have are from having a MAF just to close to the inducer inlet. I bet if I moved it a few feet away it would solve a lot of the problems.
That or get some sort of stainless honey comb in front of the MAF?


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (Scooter98144)*

Alright, my next question then is... anyone have a VR6 12V SRI for sale? Hehehehe


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...33181
just pm juan8595 he will get one to you within a week or 2. he made mine and Mike's (-THROTTLE-) and probably a whole lot of others on here running them, and it's fantastic. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (obdONE)*

Thanks man... I know someone else who produces them and just checking to see which one I want to go with, $ and known performance are my 2 considerations now.. since both seem to be 1-2 weeks once you put the deposit on it. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

I'm in need of a frontmount, is anyone selling one or know where one can be bought besides vf?


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (flybye1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *flybye1* »_I'm in need of a frontmount, is anyone selling one or know where one can be bought besides vf?

AFAIK you can roll with just about any front mount, just don't go too large unless you're running a V1/V2 or something putting out a fair amount of boost and you'll have to get custom piping. 
AWIC is what I'm debating sometime down the road as they're smaller and less conspicuous.. my car isn't a sleeper, but from view it doesn't look boosted at all.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Alright, so another oddball question here... 
A friend had a rising rate fuel regulator left over from a Mustang SC setup, I can get pics of it, but I haven't really researched too much on the part yet.
Would this sucker be of any benefit to my car? Other than it's pretty anodized blue hehehe... 
<- mkIV stage2 v9, 262 autotechs, 2.5 exhaust, stage 2 snow perf WMI. that's the basics to my setup.
Also I'm not sure if I missed it, but would removing the resonator from the exhaust help? and would it be so dang loud I couldn't stand it? hahaha


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

I got a technical question
the c2 software has been set for 3bars fpr right? if i use a c2 stage 1 software who needs #30 injectors (315cc) its the same fuel volume if i use g60 injectors (270cc) at 4bar fpr right? If you calculate the injectors flow 270cc at 43.5 psi its 315-320cc at 58-60 psi if im correct. 
Let me know if someone got this info or if not a good option to do. Thanks


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

c2 software
Corrado
4 bar, 30#, stk 3" MAF
G/J w/ OBD1(94-95)
3 bar, 36#, 4" MAF in housing
G/J (OBD2)
3 bar, 42#, 4" MAF in housing
injector duty cycle, max flow/rate & pressure = tune that matches chip.
Just use what the chip is set for & you will have a good tune.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_Alright, so another oddball question here... 
A friend had a rising rate fuel regulator left over from a Mustang SC setup, I can get pics of it, but I haven't really researched too much on the part yet.
Would this sucker be of any benefit to my car? Other than it's pretty anodized blue hehehe... 
<- mkIV stage2 v9, 262 autotechs, 2.5 exhaust, stage 2 snow perf WMI. that's the basics to my setup.
Also I'm not sure if I missed it, but would removing the resonator from the exhaust help? and would it be so dang loud I couldn't stand it? hahaha


removing res 'may' increase power a few ponies, will make it louder & will likwly drone on the highway. its a preference thing.
RR FPR is kind of shunned upon my most & was used in old EIP tunes.
If you dyno tune to 'tweak' the A/F ratio you can maximize the chip tune a bit more. IIRC Deckmandubs has gone this route.


----------



## v-dubz4lyf (Jun 13, 2005)

*Re: (The Popemobile)*

thanks for the info everyone...i already had my v9 rebuild after only 700km on it and that was only at 6 lbs...and where can i get this "cogged" setup? and please dont tell me only from vf cuz they hate me lol...my charger is still leaking after the rebuild and i havent called them back cuz its too much of a headache.\
thanks


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*

They can't get anything right around there. It's sad when tunners know more about there kits than there sales team(all of 2).


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 25, 2006)

*Re: (flybye1)*

for those who r interested: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4615745


----------



## stascom (Sep 12, 2009)

*Re: (24vMayberry)*


_Quote, originally posted by *24vMayberry* »_I own a 2003 tip vrr6 jetta. I would really like a vf kit stage 1 or 2. would this be a bad idea on a tip? Not sure if anyone has tried. 

Would like to know that, too.
TIA


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (stascom)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stascom* »_
Would like to know that, too.
TIA

I would like to know too. So I can sell one of you my 24v Stage 2 kit!







BTW, just call or email VF and ask them.. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
With all this talk and new stuff coming from Verdict, I wish just a little bit that I kept my car...


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

Thanks for the response, Corrado... I thought I remembered people talking about the drone being bad after removing the res.
Thanks for the words on the RR as well.. might just off it..


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *v-dubz4lyf* »_where can i get this "cogged" setup?

the cogged setups and basically ALL the new innovations for blown VRs are as a result of the hard work of Phil and Noah at Verdict Motorsports.
v9 cogged setup: http://shop.verdictmotorsports...Id=22


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (obdONE)*

hey guys, i need some guidance here. a buddy of mine and i put a few hours on the car yesterday, driving and tuning and we got the car running ok. there is still a LONG ways to go.
issue one, boost: Vortech V9-F with a stage 2 pulley, which is 2.7" I thought this pulley was good for 11-12psi. I am seeing a max of 6psi at redline. at first, I thought I had a faulty boost gauge, but the megasquirt is verifying that i am seeing a maximum of 80kpa at redline in the manifold. what gives???
issue two, blow off valve: under vaccuum, my BOV is open to the atmosphere. you can hold your hand under the outlet and feel it blowing air. in boost, it is closed until you let off throttle and then it purges pressure. I have never had a BOV before, is this normal? if not, could it be a reason why I am not seeing full boost?
TIA guys! I'm getting close... If I am only making 6psi for real, I don't think there is any chance of me making my 330whp goal...


----------



## The Popemobile (May 3, 2006)

*Re: (obdONE)*

vacum = open BOV
no vacum = closed BOV
what was cylinder compression PRIOR to installing the S/C??? ie.e are you running stock compression or lowered CR???


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*

tighten that belt jamie. get the car hot, tighten the hell out of the belt, then turn it back 1/4 of a turn. see what kind boost you get for a very short drive, report back.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_
issue one, boost: Vortech V9-F with a stage 2 pulley, which is 2.7" I thought this pulley was good for 11-12psi. I am seeing a max of 6psi at redline. at first, I thought I had a faulty boost gauge, but the megasquirt is verifying that i am seeing a maximum of 80kpa at redline in the manifold. what gives???


Stage 2 is 8lb of boost.. it's what I'm at and actually, you rarely see the full 8 even at redline with all the other factors, piping, etc... I've seen 7-8 when having the belt really tight, but not sure how safe that is for the ol' water pump and alternator bearings... right now I'm seeing about 5 but that's due to a cracked suckin' manifold.







which I hope to have replaced pretty soon. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

VF stage 2 for a 12V is a 2.7" pulley and it just hits 8psi at 7k. I saw 3psi at 4k, 4psi at 5k, 6psi at 6k.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *The Popemobile* »_vacum = open BOV
no vacum = closed BOV
what was cylinder compression PRIOR to installing the S/C??? ie.e are you running stock compression or lowered CR???

ok, so I can safely say that my BOV is functioning properly. I never did a compression test prior to supercharging, but I never had any reason to suspect that I needed to. So, compression is stock with a stock mk3 HG.


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_tighten that belt jamie. get the car hot, tighten the hell out of the belt, then turn it back 1/4 of a turn. see what kind boost you get for a very short drive, report back.

I would be scared to tighten my belt anymore. As it is, I can get less than a 1/4 flip in the belt when twisting it by hand. My blower bearings hum and squeal on cold start until everything is nice and warm. I suppose I can try it next weekend though. I won't be touching the car until then, but I'll try it and let you know. Thanks Mike.


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_VF stage 2 for a 12V is a 2.7" pulley and it just hits 8psi at 7k. I saw 3psi at 4k, 4psi at 5k, 6psi at 6k. 

shiiiiiiiit. so i have been basing all my assumptions on faulty information. There is really no way I am going to hit my target power on 6psi, is there? How much boost does a 2.5" pulley generate? How long will my v9 bearings last with a 2.5"?
I have a friend down here that is a pretty amazing machinist. If I asked him to machine me a pulley, what would I tell him? 2.5"? smaller? is there any surface treatment he could do to the pulley ribs to mitigate belt slip? I was thinking he could create slight cross hatching in the ribs to act as "teeth" that would grab the belt. I'm sure belt wear would be an issue, but I really don't care.
where should I go from here guys? What's my next step?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (obdONE)*

oh, one other thing I'll say on the subject, just for empirical information:
some of you may remember me complaining about my boost readings from my VDO gauge a long time ago. I have never seen above 6psi on the VDO gauge. Once, I attached an alternate gauge to the vacuum line that was controlling the diverter valve (prior to all my current round of mods) and disconnected and capped the diverter valve altogether. When I did this, I saw 11psi at redline and thought that my gauge was faulty. A new gauge, however, gave the same results. I am now thinking that perhaps it was because I was not venting pressure (I had no diverter valve) that I was reading that much boost and not because my gauge was faulty.
regardless, now, with my intercooler and SRI, etc, I am still seeing 6psi of boost. This means that essentially my intercooler is not creating any pressure drop. When driving yesterday, 80 degrees out, sunny at 3-5pm, spirited, tuning, freeway driving, with no headlights restricting air flow, I was seeing manifold air temps of about 120 degrees. This is slightly hot, from what I hear, but pretty good considering I'm not losing any pressure. If I can in fact get some sort of a scoop to blast the core with fresh air, I think the setup will be quite nice in the end. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*

Jamie, a 2.5" would give you roughly 12psi. On some V9's they will take it on the stock bearings, others will not. 
What oil is being run in the car?
Our test V9 has survived running at 13.5psi for a few runs using ABEC-9 bearings, however they will not survive very long running at that rate. That would be a 2.25" pulley. Even with cogged it will not last long. 
A V1 should be on your shopping list to land you well into the 300's.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: ([email protected])*

VDO < Autometer


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Thanks Noah. I guess I will try and get my hands on a 2.5" and see what happens.
As much as I love being supercharged, unless I come across some ridiculous deal on one, I just cannot justify the cost of a v1. I can go turbo with a custom manifold for the same price as a v1. We'll see though. 
I'm also sure you're right about autometer gauges, although at this point the gauge is just for reference. The map sensor in the MS is what really matters and it is reading accurately.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_Thanks Noah. I guess I will try and get my hands on a 2.5" and see what happens.
As much as I love being supercharged, unless I come across some ridiculous deal on one, I just cannot justify the cost of a v1. I can go turbo with a custom manifold for the same price as a v1. We'll see though. 
I'm also sure you're right about autometer gauges, although at this point the gauge is just for reference. The map sensor in the MS is what really matters and it is reading accurately. 

You can score a full kit for $1000-1500 with a V1. Then you can sell your V9 and part out what you dont need to make your money back.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*

theres v1's, or somewhat complete kits floating around for 1500-2k on here. sell your v9 and just use what you need to swap the v1 on. v9's are limited, but between the blower, decent boost, and the SEM system, it will be powerful and reliable(reliability limited by your boost/pulley). 250whp in a vw is a nice amount of power. 300+ and youre asking for trouble with that blower, and other things.
oh and jamie, about the belt. tighten it once the car/motor/belt are hot. that way you dont start it with a super tight belt and its not loosened up from heat. get heat into it, just tighten it, give it a quick run, and loosen it up again so you dont strain your bearings. quick way to see if you have belt slip.


_Modified by -THROTTLE- at 8:37 AM 10-26-2009_


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

well, the problem is that I have already sold off the remnants of my entire VF kit to pay for the MS and piping and SRI, etc etc etc. The only thing I have left is the V9 and I don't expect it to fetch a decent price.
If I came across a used V1 with a bracket for around 5-800 I would be interested, but I just don't see that happening...
I think I will go with a 2.5" pulley and see where it gets me and how long that V9 lasts. If I blow it up and I don't come across a reasonable V1, I think it's turbo time for me http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## vanilla gorilla (Jul 7, 2004)

if anyone is interested, i have 5 stage 2/3 injectors from VF. They are the 330cc ones. I tried to buy a 6th one but they sell them for $120 each!!!
Check my post if anyone is interested.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4622486


----------



## v-dubz4lyf (Jun 13, 2005)

*Re: (vanilla gorilla)*

hey guys...just a couple of questions...im currently running a v9 stage 2 kit on a 12v obd2...im getting sick and tired of oil leaks and boost limitation







so i called vortech and they told me i could trade my charger in plus another 1200buks and they would hook me up with a v2...
my only delema is i dont know where i can find a braket for the charger and wich belt i would use???....thanks for the help guys


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*

brackets you can get from either verdict, or fourseasonstuning, noth have posted in here, just check a few pages back. belt length is determines by pulley size, dual or single idler, and what else youve have/have removed from the motor. best bet, get yourself situated, and run a string and measure.


----------



## FourSeasonTuning.com (Jan 12, 2005)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*

Brackets for the V1,V2,V3 for the MK3.
http://www.fourseasontuning.com/?product=740


----------



## v-dubz4lyf (Jun 13, 2005)

*Re: (FourSeasonTuning.com)*

great!







thanks for the quick reply guys..very useful info http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## v-dubz4lyf (Jun 13, 2005)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*

oh and one more question. where can i find an idler pulley for that bracket?? thanks


----------



## pressplay (Jun 25, 2008)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_brackets you can get from either verdict, or fourseasonstuning, noth have posted in here, just check a few pages back. belt length is determines by pulley size, dual or single idler, and what else youve have/have removed from the motor. best bet, get yourself situated, and run a string and measure.


Does the Verdict bracket fit MK4 12v?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (pressplay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pressplay* »_

Does the Verdict bracket fit MK4 12v?


iirc, they are working on a unit to release soon that will fit a mk4 12v motor, and utilize the v1/2 vortech blower.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pressplay* »_

Does the Verdict bracket fit MK4 12v?


Our MK4 bracket fits both the 12v and 24v. It could also be used on the mk2/mk3 if the owner wanted to notch the frame for auxiliary drive. 


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_
iirc, they are working on a unit to release soon that will fit a mk4 12v motor, and utilize the v1/2 vortech blower.

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## FourSeasonTuning.com (Jan 12, 2005)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*

We can supply the Vortech smooth idler.


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (FourSeasonTuning.com)*

Got a question guys. I went to install the belt on my v9 and it is WAY too tight. I followed the installation instructions from VF as far as the belt routing and it's like it's too small. I measured the belt and it's almost 57" is there something I'm missing here? Here are some pics.
























The pics are with the belt routed and about as tight as it will go. Oh I'm running an AC compressor and power steering. Pretty much a stock VR6.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (ZEBLOR)*

You have to clock the charger. Loosen the large band clamp that goes around the entire charger. You'll then be able to literally rotate the two halves of the charger and push that outlet down so it lines up w/ your piping. It will also let you fit the belt if it's the correct one.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (slc92)*

Let me also add, if that's a Corrado and you have cams and or headwork then do yourself a favor and get a C2 chip. The car will likely run lean w/ the GIAC stuff. It won't blow up, but it will pull timing and be down on power.
That was stage 2 though. Not sure what stage you have.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

If the belt still doesn't work, then go to Napa, or any autoparts store and pick up a 2000 eurovan serpentine belt. This worked for me on the V9 set up with the 12psi pulley.


----------



## VRC-YA (Sep 2, 2001)

*Re: (ZEBLOR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ZEBLOR* »_Got a question guys. I went to install the belt on my v9 and it is WAY too tight. I followed the installation instructions from VF as far as the belt routing and it's like it's too small. I measured the belt and it's almost 57" is there something I'm missing here?

That belt is a pain in the ass to get in, I thought the same thing thinking I had the wrong belt. Ask ~Throttle~ how pissed I was getting at installing that stupid belt, hahaha! He was gettin' a kick out of it! Anyway, I basically had the belt partially on the boost pulley and turned the crank till the belt would just slip on...its a bitch man










_Modified by VRC-YA at 3:56 PM 10-29-2009_


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_You have to clock the charger. Loosen the large band clamp that goes around the entire charger. You'll then be able to literally rotate the two halves of the charger and push that outlet down so it lines up w/ your piping. It will also let you fit the belt if it's the correct one.

Awesome!! Thank you! I didn't even know that. I'm a n00b lol. I will try that tonight or tomorrow and let you know.




























http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (slc92)*

I have stage 1. No cams. I'm going to be getting a hold of VF for the software here in the next few days.


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (VRC-YA)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VRC-YA* »_
That belt is a pain in the ass to get in, I thought the same thing thinking I had the wrong belt. Ask ~Throttle~ how pissed I was getting at installing that stupid belt, hahaha! He was gettin' a kick out of it! Anyway, I basically had the belt partially on the boost pulley and turned the crank till the belt would just slip on...its a bitch man









_Modified by VRC-YA at 3:56 PM 10-29-2009_

Yeah it's REALLY tight though and I know it's not supposed to be that tight on the car.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (VRC-YA)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VRC-YA* »_I basically had the belt partially on the boost pulley and turned the crank till the belt would just slip on...its a bitch man









_Modified by VRC-YA at 3:56 PM 10-29-2009_








i remember.
i too have to turn the motor over by hand to get the belt on, and then i still have enough slack to make up for tension.


----------



## VRC-YA (Sep 2, 2001)

*Re: (ZEBLOR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ZEBLOR* »_
Yeah it's REALLY tight though and I know it's not supposed to be that tight on the car. 

Exactly what I said, I wasn't sure if I needed a special belt or something. It's VERY tight, almost to the point where you think the belt is gonna break when you're installing it. Trust me it'll go on, or just remeasure if you're not sure...


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (ZEBLOR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ZEBLOR* »_I have stage 1. No cams. I'm going to be getting a hold of VF for the software here in the next few days.

Try, but they wont sell anything to you in pieces escpecially if you didn't buy the kit from them.
If you need to. 
C2 30# distributor chip
Bosch 30# red top inj.(same ones VF uses)
Stock 4 bar fpr
stock MAF
That setup will work very well.


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

*Re: (slc92)*

With that setup, how many whp can be expected? I bought the stage 1 c2 software and injectors and my car just have the Vortech V1 unit, c2 pipping and intake with the stock maf, 2.5 mandrel bent exhaust with oem muffler.
Do I need another thing? Adjustable FPR or what?


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_
Try, but they wont sell anything to you in pieces escpecially if you didn't buy the kit from them.
If you need to. 
C2 30# distributor chip
Bosch 30# red top inj.(same ones VF uses)
Stock 4 bar fpr
stock MAF
That setup will work very well. 

Well I talked to [email protected] a couple weeks ago and he told me to email him the serial number on the charger and my ECU part number and he would set something up for me. That would be pretty ****ty if they wouldn't sell to me. If they don't I really don't have any choice but to go C2.


----------



## pressplay (Jun 25, 2008)

*Re: (ZEBLOR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ZEBLOR* »_
Well I talked to [email protected] a couple weeks ago and he told me to email him the serial number on the charger and my ECU part number and he would set something up for me. That would be pretty ****ty if they wouldn't sell to me. If they don't I really don't have any choice but to go C2.

Just out of curiousity, is there a reason why you want to go with VF?


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (pressplay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pressplay* »_
Just out of curiousity, is there a reason why you want to go with VF? 

I kinda wanted it to be a "stock" kit and use the intended software that comes with the kit originally. I'm not running bigger injectors, smaller pulley, cams, or anything else. So idk I just wanted to got a giac chip.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (ZEBLOR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ZEBLOR* »_
Well I talked to [email protected] a couple weeks ago and he told me to email him the serial number on the charger and my ECU part number and he would set something up for me. That would be pretty ****ty if they wouldn't sell to me. If they don't I really don't have any choice but to go C2.

I don't know who Hubert is, but Sean, the sales manager, has sold me countless items on their own, not part of a kit. I bought oil lines, fittings, belts, wiring, etc. I don't see why they wouldn't just sell you software on its own.
i think the benefit of a stock vf kit is the smooth operation and reliability. you wont turn any heads with your dyno numbers, but you will have a great feeling car.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (Bo0sted_Rafi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bo0sted_Rafi* »_my car just have the Vortech V1 unit, c2 pipping and intake *with the stock maf*, 2.5 mandrel bent exhaust with oem muffler.
Do I need another thing? Adjustable FPR or what? 

do you have a 4" MAF housing for your stock MAF sensor? You *must have* a 4" MAF housing for C2 software.


----------



## jkillion (Feb 12, 2000)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_
do you have a 4" MAF housing for your stock MAF sensor? You *must have* a 4" MAF housing for C2 software.

I'm curious about this - it's been stated more than once (sometimes called 95 mm I believe). I've got stg 2 VF kit with V9 charger on 12V distributor VR6. Been running just fine with C2 30# distributor software with stock MAF housing (have a buddy running the same). Where does this 4" MAF housing come from? I got the chip second hand so I didn't know anything about 4" MAF. Does anyone have specs or a link that gives more info on the C2 chip requirements?
Jesse


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (jkillion)*

i believe the 30# software is exempt from this requirement. Just 36# and 42# softwares require the 4" housing.


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_
I don't know who Hubert is, but Sean, the sales manager, has sold me countless items on their own, not part of a kit. I bought oil lines, fittings, belts, wiring, etc. I don't see why they wouldn't just sell you software on its own.
i think the benefit of a stock vf kit is the smooth operation and reliability. you wont turn any heads with your dyno numbers, but you will have a great feeling car.

EXACTLY!


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (ZEBLOR)*

Couple things.
1) Corrado kits use a stock MAF
2) Maybe VF is softening and selling things in pieces now. They have historically NEVER sold pieces to kits.
3) Reliability. Just my experience but I had a VF kit on my Corrado and it wasn't reliable at all. The charger went in 6500 miles and the software sucked on my car. Bad hesitation from a stop at times and the car ran lean past 4500 rpms. I did have cams though.
Good luck. Hopefully you wont have these issues


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (jkillion)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jkillion* »_
I'm curious about this - it's been stated more than once (sometimes called 95 mm I believe). I've got stg 2 VF kit with V9 charger on 12V distributor VR6. Been running just fine with C2 30# distributor software with stock MAF housing (have a buddy running the same). Where does this 4" MAF housing come from? I got the chip second hand so I didn't know anything about 4" MAF. Does anyone have specs or a link that gives more info on the C2 chip requirements?
Jesse

C2 30# Corrado chip uses:
Stock MAF
Stock 4 bar fpr
Bosch 30# red top inj
Consider that fact. I made 274 whp on that chip w/ a VF kit. I've never seen a Corrado close to that on VF software. I had better driveability, made more power, and ran faster w/ that chip than the GIAC.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_i believe the 30# software is exempt from this requirement. Just 36# and 42# softwares require the 4" housing.

obd2 stuff requires the bigger maf, corrado doesnt. steve made great power, and ran good numbers with his setup. follow his footsteps for a well built v9 setup


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

yeah, i guess we should ask what car this is going on?
my experience: 95 obd1 gti vr with vf kit, but c2 36# tune and 36# injectors - my car never ran properly and never made power, so i ditched the entire mess and went SEM and haven't looked back.
I am definitively NOT an expert on the matter, but it seems as though unless you are obd2, you are going to have problems with any FI setup coupled with chip tuning...
although that being said, many people have had success where all I saw was failure.








g/l


----------



## vanilla gorilla (Jul 7, 2004)

hey guys, i did a search through this thread and via the search tool.
Can someone tell me what size belt i need for a VF stage 3 WITH idiler pully and WITH A/C? Its on a MK4 12v.
I emailed VF but everyone know how they are with responses.
thanks in advance!
I will post up some pic's of the set up after its completed.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (vanilla gorilla)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vanilla gorilla* »_Can someone tell me what size belt i need for a VF stage 3 WITH idiler pully and WITH A/C? Its on a MK4 12v.

I don't know the exact length, but if you can't measure it with a string to be certain, I would buy several belts and use the one that works best for you, then return what you don't need.
I would buy a 55" 56" and a few others...

I have a 2.7" pulley, no a/c, and an idler, and I use a 53"


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (vanilla gorilla)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vanilla gorilla* »_hey guys, i did a search through this thread and via the search tool.
Can someone tell me what size belt i need for a VF stage 3 WITH idiler pully and WITH A/C? Its on a MK4 12v.
I emailed VF but everyone know how they are with responses.
thanks in advance!
I will post up some pic's of the set up after its completed.


OEM EUROVAN VR BELT!!!!!!!!!! I've posted it twice.


----------



## vanilla gorilla (Jul 7, 2004)

i just bought a Gates DK070536 Multi V-Groove Belt but it seems to be too short to fit.
Guess i'll have to just muscle it back on there.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (vanilla gorilla)*

Corrado 30# tune and a 95' 36# tune have nothing to do with each other.


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*

Thanks for your response. But whats the notable diference in whp when you use the stock maf housing vs 95mm housing?
What can i expect, 240-260whp with setup i mentioned?


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_
I am definitively NOT an expert on the matter, but it seems as though unless you are obd2, you are going to have problems with any FI setup coupled with chip tuning...


Here's the thing. if you are happy with a modest increase in power, i think most "base" kits work very well on a stock motor. We have been running a Z-engineering kit on a '93 corrado for about 9 yrs, without a hiccup. And i know many people w/ the low psi kits running great on the base software. it makes your car faster, might not stack up to the fast cars of today, but it definitely gets you to the next level. 
I find when you are looking to make real power, a lot of the off-the-shelf "kits" don't work well. Thats when you need to start playing with your setup to optimize it. When you add complimenting modifications, etc. 
Personally, I'm still trying to map out the ideal setup for myself. I have played w/ different tunes and injectors. I seem to always go back to the stock AMS ecu w/ the regular pulley and stock vr6 injectors while I look for the "ideal" parts/tune/etc., and the reason why is because it is fast enough and drives great. 1 day i will achieve the same driveability w/ the power i want, but until then I'm just enjoying the car as it is.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (Bo0sted_Rafi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bo0sted_Rafi* »_Thanks for your response. But whats the notable diference in whp when you use the stock maf housing vs 95mm housing?
What can i expect, 240-260whp with setup i mentioned? 

You're thinking about this in the wrong terms. The MAF is a heated element. It judges airflow by how long it takes the air flowing over it to cool the heated element in the MAF. The larger MAF housing is put in place to "trick" your ecu into thinking that it is seeing the appropriate amount of air. more air volume means the MAF takes longer to cool, so you are tricking the sensor back to within spec.
if you do not use the 4" MAF housing and you are using a 36# or 42# tune from C2, your tune will be terrible, because your MAF will essentially be reading incorrectly for what the C2 tune is looking for.
and as always, if I have miss-stated or miss-represented anything in that statement, someone feel free to correct me.


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_Corrado 30# tune and a 95' 36# tune have nothing to do with each other.

if this comment was directed at me, I don't remember ever saying that they were related. if it wasn't, nevermind...


----------



## pressplay (Jun 25, 2008)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_Couple things.
1) Corrado kits use a stock MAF
2) Maybe VF is softening and selling things in pieces now. They have historically NEVER sold pieces to kits.
3) Reliability. Just my experience but I had a VF kit on my Corrado and it wasn't reliable at all. The charger went in 6500 miles and the software sucked on my car. Bad hesitation from a stop at times and the car ran lean past 4500 rpms. I did have cams though.
Good luck. Hopefully you wont have these issues









What was your AFR at 4500 rpm? Mine hovered just above 13:1 from 4500 rpm to 5500 rpm. then from there it dropped below 13 and hovered above 12:1. Am I running lean also?
thanks


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (pressplay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pressplay* »_
What was your AFR at 4500 rpm? Mine hovered just above 13:1 from 4500 rpm to 5500 rpm. then from there it dropped below 13 and hovered above 12:1. Am I running lean also?
thanks

14.5:1-15:1 from 4500 rpm on. I had cams, ported head, ported exhaust manifolds, test pipe, and a 2.5 cat back.
The VF Corrado tune does not seem to be able to handle the mods. Car went 13.7 on VF stage 2 and GIAC. 13.4 on VF stage 2 and C2. You could feel the car was faster up top. Even my girlfriend noticed it








12-13:1 is perfect for a SC car IMO.


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_
12-13:1 is perfect for a SC car IMO. 

definitely. esp the way you have it; leaner down low, richer w/ the boost.


----------



## jkillion (Feb 12, 2000)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_
14.5:1-15:1 from 4500 rpm on. I had cams, ported head, ported exhaust manifolds, test pipe, and a 2.5 cat back.
The VF Corrado tune does not seem to be able to handle the mods. 

I can second this experience with stock exhaust, stock cams and VF Stage 2 with GIAC chip. This is what I had at last dyno day and I was about 14-15:1 all the way up to redline and about 20 hp down on similar setup Corrado (although he has 2.5" exhaust and headers) with C2 chip (results on P4 http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...age=4). I now have C2 chip in but haven't gotten back to the dyno. Feels a little peppier up top.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (jkillion)*

I'm not sure what up with the GIAC without cams running lean








8.6psi on a stock engine. 12.5 to redline. The 2 that spike were the sensor being blown out of the exhaust. 229.6whp on Dizzy. Something might be up with your MAF Jessie. 


_Modified by [email protected] at 1:44 PM 10-30-2009_


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

People, i got a doubt about my setup. Today I install the C2 stage 1 software and #30 injectors and when i ran the car, its only 8psi in the boost gauge. My charger pulley its a 2.87 one, that pulley supose to be for 12 psi right? Let me know if im wrong or if the problem its another thing. I dont hear/see belt slip or something wrong like boost leak.
thanks in advance.


----------



## stascom (Sep 12, 2009)

I emailed VF about chargers for TipTronic. They just said that they don't make a kit for auto trany because it's not designed to handle such a load. Still no info, if anyone tried it. Just theories that it won't work.


----------



## v-dubz4lyf (Jun 13, 2005)

*Re: (stascom)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stascom* »_I emailed VF about chargers for TipTronic. They just said that they don't make a kit for auto trany because it's not designed to handle such a load. Still no info, if anyone tried it. Just theories that it won't work.

i dont see why it wouldnt work...yeah ur putting a crap load of stress on the tranny but the engine works just the same...


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (Bo0sted_Rafi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bo0sted_Rafi* »_People, i got a doubt about my setup. Today I install the C2 stage 1 software and #30 injectors and when i ran the car, its only 8psi in the boost gauge. My charger pulley its a 2.87 one, that pulley supose to be for 12 psi right? Let me know if im wrong or if the problem its another thing. I dont hear/see belt slip or something wrong like boost leak.
thanks in advance.

you are wrong. 8 psi is correct. it actually sounds a bit high, if anything. my 2.7" pulley on a v9 gets 6psi.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_
you are wrong. 8 psi is correct. it actually sounds a bit high, if anything. my 2.7" pulley on a v9 gets 6psi.

Depends on what charger he has. V1/V2 will see more boost than a V9 with the same size pulley. 
2.7" pulley on my V9 saw 8psi at 7k. If you are only seeing 6 then your belt is slipping or you have a leak.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (slc92)*

I was aware that he has a v1 that's why I said his boost numbers are correct at 8psi even though he has a larger pulley.
I never rev mine to 7k, but I see 6psi at ~6k rpm. I have an intercooler but I wasn't under the impression it was causing a decrease in pressure since my readings are essentially the same before and after the intercooler. My boost gauge doesn't exhibit erratic behavior leading me to suspect belt slip and I cannot hear or feel belt slip. I am reading accurate vaccuum and everything in the car is t-bolt clamped, so I also don't think I have a leak.
If I am truly supposed to be seeing 8psi then obviously one or more of my above stated assertions / assumptions is incorrect.


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*

Well, today its the second day of test and i verified and no belt slip, no boost leak. Can someone who got 2.87 pulley in the V1 charger who can answer my question please


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (Bo0sted_Rafi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bo0sted_Rafi* »_Well, today its the second day of test and i verified and no belt slip, no boost leak. Can someone who got 2.87 pulley in the V1 charger who can answer my question please

2.87 = 12psi running the stock crank on a V1 S-trim


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

And someone knows what i need to verify? im loosing 3psi and thats could be 25-40whp there.


----------



## kzy247365 (Dec 10, 2006)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

My V1 hits bout 10 psi on Autometer w/ 2.87 all stock motor no I/C.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (Bo0sted_Rafi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bo0sted_Rafi* »_And someone knows what i need to verify? im loosing 3psi and thats could be 25-40whp there. 


Is your setup intercooled Rafi?


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

*Re: ([email protected])*

No intercooler in my setup. But 2.87" its 12psi in v1 unit right?


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*

6 psi at 6k on a VF stage 2 (V9 2.7") is spot on. If you are intercooled I'm surprised you are seeing that much.
SC boost numbers are usually quoted at redline. So VF stage 2 is 8psi but only for a second at 7k.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Bo0sted_Rafi)*

12psi is whats listed for the 2.87" pulley. ive seen closer to 15psi on my gauge when i was unintercooled.


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

And where i can start verifying for the problem? Im gonna verify the bov and if any intake or vaccum hose its ok. Give me your recomendations
however, yesterday my first victim was a 04' R32 in the highway


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_
you are wrong. 8 psi is correct. it actually sounds a bit high, if anything. my 2.7" pulley on a v9 gets 6psi.

Sorry Raf, I am wrong. I was making an assumption based on my setup. good luck finding the leak. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_6 psi at 6k on a VF stage 2 (V9 2.7") is spot on. If you are intercooled I'm surprised you are seeing that much.


I have the top mount with big, short pipes http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*

Looking good Jamie http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Looking good Jamie http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

thanks, that pic is actually a bit old at this point. I need to get an updated one. The front end is back on and everything is cleaned up now. I'm done with the mechanical work (at least for now







) all that's left is tuning.


----------



## kzy247365 (Dec 10, 2006)

*Re: (obdONE)*

obdONE, I live in central TX. Only been here a few years. Are there any TX VW shows around here?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (kzy247365)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kzy247365* »_obdONE, I live in central TX. Only been here a few years. Are there any TX VW shows around here?









PMd you.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (obdONE)*

I know it's not really SC related but does anyone know of a decent dyno place in central VA? I live in Charlottesville so anything really close to that would be great. Thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
And another question while I'm at it... when is it good to have an inline fuel pump? Kind of vague, I imagine. 


_Modified by dasGolf01 at 2:16 PM 11-3-2009_


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_ And another question while I'm at it... when is it good to have an inline fuel pump? Kind of vague, I imagine. 

id start looking into one around 300whp. i made 286whp and ran lean on a 30# setup, so jeff from c2 suggested a 150-190lph unit. ordered a walbro 190lph, and its been fine since. now it helps fuel 42# injectors, and i have zero issues.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_
id start looking into one around 300whp. i made 286whp and ran lean on a 30# setup, so jeff from c2 suggested a 150-190lph unit. ordered a walbro 190lph, and its been fine since. now it helps fuel 42# injectors, and i have zero issues.

Awesome, thanks for the tip there. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_
id start looking into one around 300whp. i made 286whp and ran lean on a 30# setup, so jeff from c2 suggested a 150-190lph unit. ordered a walbro 190lph, and its been fine since. now it helps fuel 42# injectors, and i have zero issues.

if you don't mind me asking where did you get yours from? I googled the pump but I seem to just be finding EBay links (which I don't trust) and a lot of intank pumps...
on a side note, what happened to your motor? just saw your sig?


----------



## burnite2 (Jan 14, 2009)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*

does anyone know the size of the oil return fitting on a V9? i need a 45' not a 90'fitting. thanks in advance http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2PointGoGoGo* »_
if you don't mind me asking where did you get yours from? I googled the pump but I seem to just be finding EBay links (which I don't trust) and a lot of intank pumps...
on a side note, what happened to your motor? just saw your sig?









http://www.lightningmotorsport....aspx
might find it cheaper elsewhere, but that was a quick google and its actually the same place i got mine.
motor was a tad low on compression when we built it. did some more work to go faster, went low 12's all day, but being it was on it way out, it finally went. cylinder 5 is dead. so, we will probably hone and rering the motor, and be good to go as we didnt see any damage. looking into some options now for a tad bit more power for next year to make 11's easier to accomplish.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

So, realizing this isn't the VAG forum or what not, just thought I'd toss it out here in case anyone has experienced this before... 
Maybe three days ago my car started running pretty terribly.. tons of hesitation, if I shift into neutral while driving, it will die. If I'm careful coming to a stop it almost dies but doesn't quite. Lots of unhappy gurgle/popping.
Getting codes P0101 P1143 and P1166. I tried swapping out my MAF with another I have (that I hoped was good, but not 100%), but until I have $ to grab a newer one, I can't really test that, which I thought it might be... anything else smashingly obvious that I should check on?


----------



## vanilla gorilla (Jul 7, 2004)

take a look at your plugs. That could be an issue.
Also, do you have an A/F gauge?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (burnite2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *burnite2* »_does anyone know the size of the oil return fitting on a V9? i need a 45' not a 90'fitting. thanks in advance http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-984408ERL/


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (vanilla gorilla)*

I'll give the plugs a check tonight.
Nope, not yet... something on the list to be getting as soon as I can.
Interesting how it just started a few days back and I wasn't even driving spiritedly or such... but I'll give the plugs a look.
thanks for the advice, they were my next thought. Glad to be verified.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Plugs and or make sure the wires are in good shape. i recently had one with a split and it was arching on the head.


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*

Some of the things that helped my intercooler set up..


----------



## [email protected] (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_So, realizing this isn't the VAG forum or what not, just thought I'd toss it out here in case anyone has experienced this before... 
Maybe three days ago my car started running pretty terribly.. tons of hesitation, if I shift into neutral while driving, it will die. If I'm careful coming to a stop it almost dies but doesn't quite. Lots of unhappy gurgle/popping. 

Sounds like a boost or vacuum leak. I was having some idle bounce recently and found a loose boost pipe coupler. A smoke tester is the easiest way to check, but not too many places seem to have them.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (Scooter98144)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Scooter98144* »_Some of the things that helped my intercooler set up..

that looks pretty good man http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I was thinking of having an aluminum scoop fabricated and mounted to the subframe. is your scoop attached to the front bumper cover too? i would imagine it's not, since that would make removal of the bumper quite difficult.


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (obdONE)*

It is attached but not very firmly. So it is not hard to remove the bumper. In the Seattle area the weather stays cool most of the year so even when I drive like a bat out of hell the intercooler never gets much more than warm. In the fall and winter even under boost the IC will be cold to the touch.. I see maybe a .5psi drop in pressure with the setup.


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

is that your MAF right before the throttle body? what tune are you using? nice setup!


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: (ThaCorradoKid)*

Is It ok to take a 1.8 side monut and mount it as a top mount in my vr? Do I need anythhing like a tune?


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Turns out to be a combo of things... boost leak now fixed, replaced some of the plastic VF piping with stainless. 
Two of the custom plug wires for the MSD conversion had popped and plugs were looking a little used.
All replaced and fixed and things are much smoother now. Thanks for the tips/hints/advice folks. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*









Well the V2-Si MK4 is basically finished. We're waiting on the _third_ intercooler to show up, but a side from that its good to go. 










_Modified by [email protected] at 6:02 PM 11-7-2009_


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Well the V2-Si MK4 is basically finished. We're waiting on the _third_ intercooler to show up, but a side from that its good to go. 









_Modified by [email protected] at 6:02 PM 11-7-2009_
Looks great, I can't wait...
The third's the charm, right guys?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (groupracer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *groupracer* »_
Looks great, I can't wait...
The third's the charm, right guys?























Well this is the ''Be all, end all" setup http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 2hard2fixagain (Oct 3, 2009)

Does anyone have any information on how to replace the seals/bearings in a V9 charger? I was also wondering if anyone has had any luck in finding the ABEC9 bearings, and all the seals for the V9 aside from an aftermarket company that wants $300+ for them.


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

Well guys, still trying to find why i dont see the right psi's for my setup. Im gonna get to the dyno to verify if the serpentine belt its the problem. Im gonna make a first run to verify how much boost the dyno's map sensor read and then, im gonna tight the serpentine to make another run hoping thats the problem. My fear its if i get the serpentine too tight to broke something like water pump, etc. How i know if its too tight?
Another thing, i just put the chip and the software, im running with the stock fuel pump, oem 3bar fpr, no intercooler (soon wat. Injection), its possible to run 12psi with that?
I got the CEL because im running 2.5 without cat, just the oem muffler but when i ran the car, sometimes the CEL start to flashing like when you got misfire, what can be the problem here, plugs? Plugwires? This happens 50% of the times i get my car WOT. Any help?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Bo0sted_Rafi)*

yes you can run 12psi on that setup. scan the car and see what codes come up. if you cant do that, check the spark plugs and wires, then the coil pack


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (2hard2fixagain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2hard2fixagain* »_Does anyone have any information on how to replace the seals/bearings in a V9 charger? I was also wondering if anyone has had any luck in finding the ABEC9 bearings, and all the seals for the V9 aside from an aftermarket company that wants $300+ for them. 

http://www.superchargerrebuilds.com/?page_id=6
My rebuild of a V9
http://www.herbys53.com/forums...age=5


----------



## 2hard2fixagain (Oct 3, 2009)

*Re: ([email protected])*

I see the kit on superxhargerrebuild is $550 for all of those seals. I know for a fact that you can find all of those seals/bearings for an extremely cheap price (come on, they are mass produced seals and bearings found on a number of machienes) from a gasket/bearing company. I'm going to do more reasearch and see if I can find them. The dimensions of all of the bearings/seals does help massively though! And the install tips! Thanks!


----------



## 631 Corrado (Jan 14, 2003)

*Re: (2hard2fixagain)*

dude 2 out of the 4 bearings are like 25 bucks. but the 2 high speed thrust bearings are big bucks and if you can find them cheep please let me know. i spent almost 250-300 bucks on mine when i rebuild them and i checked everywhere for days


----------



## 2hard2fixagain (Oct 3, 2009)

the cheapest I have found for onew of them so far is $207. all the other seals that other people want are about $4, and the input shaft seals were $15 at a gasket and bearing supply company.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (2hard2fixagain)*

here's a rather crappy, but updated pic of the setup:








Noah and I are working on a nice little surprise that will hopefully make a difference, stay tuned.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (obdONE)*

Looks damn good though.


----------



## v-dubz4lyf (Jun 13, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*

i like what i see. great job guys!!


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*

So my ride has been parked for almost a year. We moved to a new house so I drove it for the first time in a very long time. I had forgotten just what it is like to drive a supercharged VR6 inter-cooled beast. The racing headers and TT exhaust make for such a deep nasty growl.
I so want to hear from some one who has added this. I would LOVE to get this next and solve my belt wear problems. I think I need to do some shimming.


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (Scooter98144)*

Guys, quick question, is the pulley on a V9 reverse threaded like on a serp belt tensioner pulley, or is is standard? thx.


----------



## 2hard2fixagain (Oct 3, 2009)

*Re: (ZEBLOR)*

no. The best way I found to do it myself is to get a vice grip around the edge of the pulley (around the slope that is close to the bolt) and get a breaker bar on it. It's on there pretty good.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (ZEBLOR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ZEBLOR* »_Guys, quick question, is the pulley on a V9 reverse threaded like on a serp belt tensioner pulley, or is is standard? thx.









Standard


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (2hard2fixagain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2hard2fixagain* »_no. The best way I found to do it myself is to get a vice grip around the edge of the pulley (around the slope that is close to the bolt) and get a breaker bar on it. It's on there pretty good.


Can't you just use an impact gun and zip it off real quick?


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Standard

Thank you!


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (ZEBLOR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ZEBLOR* »_
Can't you just use an impact gun and zip it off real quick?

I used an impact to zip it off. Then I had to modify a harbor freight puller to pull the pulley off. Be carefull as those pullies are soft. Don't grab it on the edges. You have to try and get toward the center.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (Scooter98144)*

Scooter98144>
How will the 928MS Impellar solve you rbelt wear problems? I see the possibility of more power, but unless your going to a cogged setup, you'll still have slipping & worn belts. 
Typically the pully & key get stuck on to the shaft. try some wd-40 in there to loosen it.
A standard 3 arm puller works perfectly to remove the pulley. 










_Modified by CorradoMagic at 8:44 AM 11-11-2009_


----------



## jkillion (Feb 12, 2000)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_
I used an impact to zip it off. Then I had to modify a harbor freight puller to pull the pulley off. Be carefull as those pullies are soft. Don't grab it on the edges. You have to try and get toward the center.


On my V9 I used a old belt wrapped around the pulley and then around the body of the SC to hold the pulley - didn't have impact wrench. Also, my pulley slid right off (probably 0.001" clearance fit) - no puller required - odd.


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_Scooter98144>
The impeller will not help at all. When I meant was I have some sort of alignment problem. The belt is wearing out to fast as well as jumping the charger pulley. So the alignment must be off just enough to be causing problems. Have net been sure just how to measure that and correct it. 
How will the 928MS Impeller solve your belt wear problems? I see the possibility of more power, but unless your going to a cogged setup, you'll still have slipping & worn belts. 

The 928ms impeller is just a part I am very much drooling for. It is like free boost.

I use a torch and get the pulley pretty warm if not hot. Hot enough that I wear leather gloves. then put and ice cube on the shaft along with some WD-40 this helps a lot in getting the pulley to come off.
Typically the pulley & key get stuck on to the shaft. try some WD-40 in there to loosen it. A standard 3 arm puller works perfectly to remove the pulley. 
_Modified by CorradoMagic at 8:44 AM 11-11-2009_


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

^ not sure where your alignment is off, but most kits came w/ a shim. Some needed it, some did not. Mine did not. .. but I am also now cogged. 
triangular shim disc shown here.


----------



## VR-tmills (Oct 19, 2009)

I have:
2.8 VR6 12v
AMS Sc kit(V1 s trim, 8-8.5? psi)
Stg 1 chip
EIP front mount
Stock injectors and engine
NGK BKR8EIX gapped to 0.028
Neuspeed full exhaust (Cat removed)
Brospeed header
Neuspeed wire/distro
What could I expect to see on a dyno?


----------



## The Popemobile (May 3, 2006)

*Re: (Scooter98144)*

my plan is to run this to get more boost lower down, and lower my redline....or at least shift around 6K instead of 7.2K


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (VR-tmills)*

i needed to shim mine as well. used it didnt come with the plate, so washers did the trick. make sure the rest of your pulleys line up as well. 
out of the setup above, id expect 250whp give or take.


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

But that shim its necesary? I dont have it but i dont saw aligment problem in my setup.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bo0sted_Rafi* »_But that shim its necesary? I dont have it but i dont saw aligment problem in my setup. 



_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_^ not sure where your alignment is off, but most kits came w/ a shim. Some needed it, some did not. 
triangular shim disc shown here. 

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Would love to hear from some one with that billet impeller as well. It looks yummy.


----------



## 2hard2fixagain (Oct 3, 2009)

If anyone is looking to upgrade pulleys I have a 2,62 that im looking to get a even swap for a stock stage one pulley. this pulley puts out 11 psi non-intercooled on my 24v


----------



## VR-tmills (Oct 19, 2009)

2hard2fixagain I IM'd you....


----------



## VR-tmills (Oct 19, 2009)

Anyone know the stock pulley size on the AMS kit? Uses V1 S-trim


----------



## kzy247365 (Dec 10, 2006)

*Re: (2hard2fixagain)*

I have a stock AMS pulley. I'd swap ya.


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

*Re: (VR-tmills)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VR-tmills* »_Anyone know the stock pulley size on the AMS kit? Uses V1 S-trim 

3.12"
also, is your car obd1 or obd2? my guess on your setup is 225 (obd1) 235whp (2)


----------



## 2hard2fixagain (Oct 3, 2009)

i think that the 3.12 will be a little big for my application. I do apprecieate it, though.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (2hard2fixagain)*

I have an almost brand new Vortech 2.75" (not sold as part of any kit) it's 8 rib, but worked great on my car while I had it on there.
I will also have a VF 2.7" with light damage to one rib available in a few weeks.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (VR-tmills)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VR-tmills* »_I have:
2.8 VR6 12v
AMS Sc kit(V1 s trim, 8-8.5? psi)
Stg 1 chip
EIP front mount
Stock injectors and engine
NGK BKR8EIX gapped to 0.028
Neuspeed full exhaust (Cat removed)
Brospeed header
Neuspeed wire/distro
What could I expect to see on a dyno?

220-235whp
240-255 with cams


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Can some one post a lot more complete info on the cogged pulley sets we can not get. Would love to see better photos and descriptions as well as any other information out there.
Things like belt noise and life span. Boost levels you can pick. How hard are they to install as well.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

^ its prety much all laid out for you on Verdictmotorsports.com
look up 1 user








I am running a cogged kit. I am seeing 15# on a V1. with cogged there is no slip. you can run lower belt tensions, the kits are aligned & the stronger, wider better belts dont wear very easily.
There is a slight increase in noise from the cog belt engagement, but the hard coated pulleys reduce that pretty well. I certainly can not hear it over my screaming V1.
there are no downsides to the kit. Ask anyone who is running it. In my book, its the only way to go SC'ed.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_^ its prety much all laid out for you on Verdictmotorsports.com
look up 1 user








I am running a cogged kit. I am seeing 15# on a V1. with cogged there is no slip. you can run lower belt tensions, the kits are aligned & the stronger, wider better belts dont wear very easily.
There is a slight increase in noise from the cog belt engagement, but the hard coated pulleys reduce that pretty well. I certainly can not hear it over my screaming V1.
there are no downsides to the kit. Ask anyone who is running it. In my book, its the only way to go SC'ed. 

Thanks Keith









_Quote, originally posted by *Scooter98144* »_Can some one post a lot more complete info on the cogged pulley sets we can not get. Would love to see better photos and descriptions as well as any other information out there.
Things like belt noise and life span. Boost levels you can pick. How hard are they to install as well. 

Noah and myself began work on the cogged setups back in 2006 when the alternative to belt slip was "go turbo". Within a few months we had a working setup and spent most of the spring/summer of '07 testing it out and racking up miles. We even went the length of driving cross country and doing the AKA Rally where we made our way back to the east coast. A grand total of 7700 miles in 11 days which only resulted in one _problem_ a bent wheel. 
Between June and November we managed to put just over 23k miles on the setup. From the Berkshires of Western Mass to the plains of the mid-west, even all the way to Las Vegas, through the desert and even onto the Bonneville Salt Flats. 








Having proven out the V9 setup we moved onto the V1 which was known for being a more robust blower. We developed a kit for the MK3/Corrado that winter, which allowed us to keep the factory air conditioning via a custom sleeved A/C pulley. 








In the spring of '08 we began work on our auxiliary drive setup for the MK4 using a V9. This setup was very unique and featured an aluminum serpentine crank pulley as well as a cogged crank pulley. The advantage being users could go cogged and not have to change all of their pulleys over. 








Throughout '08 & '09 we received a lot of MK4 owners requesting a setup for the V1/V2/V3 blowers, which a production kit was never made for. Over the summer we developed our own brackets which work with standard and auxiliary drive. 








Our boost levels go from .6 psi increments, so you can really dial in how much you'd like to run. 
Our belts are kevlar cogged belts and are extremely heavy duty and will last you quite a while. The increase in noise is due to the profile of the pulley and the teeth on the belt. You may notice its a little louder, but not by much.
We've made the installs relatively straight forward, epically on the auxiliary drive setups. The MK3/Corrado kits are a little more involved, but nothing that can't be installed in a few hours.
As a company we try and remain flexible while catering to the supercharged enthusiasts. We've witnessed a few companies bail out and leave their customers high and dry, we know the feelings you guys have as we too have been let down by products, services and support over the years. We're really here to engineer and manufacture the parts you guys need and want as die hard supercharger enthusiasts.
As always we are here to help http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
- Phil


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: ([email protected])*

any pricing on the mk4 set-up? the aux drive and bracket for the v1/2/3?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (mk4vrjtta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk4vrjtta* »_any pricing on the mk4 set-up? the aux drive and bracket for the v1/2/3? 

Pricing on the brackets aren't up on the site yet, but are ranging between $750 and $800. They come with our support bracket, c-bracket, head bracket assembly and idler. 
The auxiliary drive conversion for the V1-V3 uses the same serpentine & cogged crank pulleys as the V9 kit, the only difference being the belt length, so the price is the same ($1000). This setup comes with new serpentine crank, cogged crank, cogged s/c pulley, kevlar cogged belt. As usual the desired boost level is your choice, and we do offer new pulleys under our exchange program which is $50 for a new unit.


















_Modified by [email protected] at 1:10 AM 11-13-2009_


----------



## VR-tmills (Oct 19, 2009)

Just got a quick tune/ new plugs/ some basic care/ Patched a IC hose .... BIG difference!
It mush be insane to have a 400hp MK3 cause 250-/+ feels wonderful!


----------



## kzy247365 (Dec 10, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*

What kind of top speed did you see on the Salt Flats? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: ([email protected])*

So on the aux drive for the V9s it basically only changes over pullies you need to change to run the cogs? Thus the slightly lower price. What negatives are there in running that? Your site/company is going to hurt my finances... might be a bit of saving, but I am pretty convinced now that cogging is in my car's future. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

great stuff coming out of verdict lately!
any chance for an aux drive on mk3/rado, or does space rule that totally out?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (ThaCorradoKid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kzy247365* »_What kind of top speed did you see on the Salt Flats? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

A puny 137mph. We had the gearing to go to 189, but only running 6psi and at that elevation we were seeing below 5psi. On another "closed course" it hit 178, but that was running 12psi and off the record.

_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_So on the aux drive for the V9s it basically only changes over pullies you need to change to run the cogs? Thus the slightly lower price. What negatives are there in running that? Your site/company is going to hurt my finances... might be a bit of saving, but I am pretty convinced now that cogging is in my car's future. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Correct. The only pulleys you're changing over are the serpentine and cogged cranks as well as the charger pulley itself.

_Quote, originally posted by *ThaCorradoKid* »_great stuff coming out of verdict lately!
any chance for an aux drive on mk3/rado, or does space rule that totally out? 

You could run aux. drive on a MK3/Corrado, but would need to notch the frame rail for the belt.


_Modified by [email protected] at 6:02 PM 11-13-2009_


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: ([email protected])*

haha found a old video of the wife's cabriolet on cold start up, thought i would share http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1vcJfWNqud8


----------



## slvr bullet (Aug 23, 2005)

*Boost vs rpm*

I'm thinking about trying to get a v1 charger. Just wanted to know what the boost levels are through out the rev range. On 98 vr6 12-14 psi pulley what ever info you guys have would be good non intercooled. Right now I have a stage 2 vf kit looking for a little more power. Maybe some boost alittle sooner also.


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

Thanks for stopping by Sunday Noah & Phil! mission accomplished lighting a fire under my ass, and the MK4 aux drive setup looked amazing! Kudos to Verdict on breaking through w/ that...


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (ThaCorradoKid)*

Peeps, 
Trying to help out a fellow S/C'd dubber in Ireland. He is running a 24v VF stage 1 in his Jetta 4-Motion (jealous). He needs a new belt. I can't remember, but will a 2003 EuroVan (24v VR6) belt for for a 24v Vf Stage 1??


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (Lew_Dog)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lew_Dog* »_Peeps, 
Trying to help out a fellow S/C'd dubber in Ireland. He is running a 24v VF stage 1 in his Jetta 4-Motion (jealous). He needs a new belt. I can't remember, but will a 2003 EuroVan (24v VR6) belt for for a 24v Vf Stage 1??

YES!!


----------



## irish_TDI (Mar 10, 2007)

*Re: (littlenr)*

Thanks Lew! 
Guys im the Irish dubber Lew is trying to help out,in a bit of a hole as my car is off the road due to having no sc belt.
I just looked through this thread all 40 something pages to find the info on the Eurovan belt.Great thread with some great info which i will have to revisit again lol
Littlenr thanks alot for confirming that,i will try my local VW dealers for one tomorrow.
One more question,does anyone know the spec of the bolt on the out side of the charger mount,the one you need to loosen to adjust the belt,i need to pick up a new one mine was over tightened and i rounded the edges slightly!!!!!! 
Just to clarify its the bolt circled in the pic.....


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (irish_TDI)*

VF has no spec for that bolt, just make sure you:
loosen the other mounting bolt to allow free movement of the charger, THEN lock down that bolt, then the other (pivot) bolt. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## irish_TDI (Mar 10, 2007)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

Yeah i couldn't find anything about in in the manual etc.Just thought some one on here might be aware of the spec.....


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

I got a quick question, in those VF Setup, the line in the "tee" of the oil feed fitting, for what it is? Its goes to the compressor for what?


----------



## slvr bullet (Aug 23, 2005)

*Re: (Bo0sted_Rafi)*

Think it's the air assist. Help the oil drain better, not 100 percent sure though.


----------



## hover (Mar 9, 2005)

*FV-QR*

Added a few people to the 300 club. You guys who are thread regulars probably already know who they are. Thread is being updated again by me as well, sorry for disappearing for quite some time. Let me know what else I need to get up there, and if I don't get it up there, send me another IM, I'm on my BB constantly, and think I lose IMs from BB to windows computer, to iBook, to MacBook Pro, to netbook, to...
-Chad


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

*Re: (slvr bullet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slvr bullet* »_Think it's the air assist. Help the oil drain better...

100% correct


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (hover)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hover* »_Added a few people to the 300 club. You guys who are thread regulars probably already know who they are. Thread is being updated again by me as well, sorry for disappearing for quite some time. Let me know what else I need to get up there, and if I don't get it up there, send me another IM, I'm on my BB constantly, and think I lose IMs from BB to windows computer, to iBook, to MacBook Pro, to netbook, to...
-Chad

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif thanks


----------



## irish_TDI (Mar 10, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (hover)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hover* »_Added a few people to the 300 club. You guys who are thread regulars probably already know who they are. Thread is being updated again by me as well, sorry for disappearing for quite some time. Let me know what else I need to get up there, and if I don't get it up there, send me another IM, I'm on my BB constantly, and think I lose IMs from BB to windows computer, to iBook, to MacBook Pro, to netbook, to...
-Chad

What do you need to do to get in the 300 club?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (irish_TDI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *irish_TDI* »_
What do you need to do to get in the 300 club?









A supercharged VR6 that makes 300whp.
For those with cams, what are you seeing for vacumn at idle and while engine braking?


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

around 26hg while engine braking and 16-17 at idle

_Modified by mk4vrjtta at 9:30 PM 11-16-2009_


_Modified by mk4vrjtta at 9:32 PM 11-16-2009_


----------



## irish_TDI (Mar 10, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
A supercharged VR6 that makes 300whp.
For those with cams, what are you seeing for vacumn at idle and while engine braking?

So that's what the 300 stands for







i should have worked that one out. 300whp is a lot esp for a 4motion,i would be needing to making 360/370 + at the flywheel.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (irish_TDI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *irish_TDI* »_
So that's what the 300 stands for







i should have worked that one out. 300whp is a lot esp for a 4motion,i would be needing to making 360/370 + at the flywheel.









Well you have the perfect platform for it. AWD, 24v...








If only those state side were so fortunate. If we want an AWD VR6 its either an R32 or TT 3.2. Not that either of those are a bad choice, but we _do_ need some variety.


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

Less talkie and more workie. Swap that belt Shane and report back!


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
A supercharged VR6 that makes 300whp.
For those with cams, what are you seeing for vacumn at idle and while engine braking?

Phil - when I was at 8.0:1 I saw ~ 14"hg...I have yet to check what I am at now with the stock HG and 10.5:1 compression.
Also, I have DSR 256 cams. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## irish_TDI (Mar 10, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Lew_Dog)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lew_Dog* »_Less talkie and more workie. Swap that belt Shane and report back!









Will do Lew....
Bit of an update the T4 (eurovan) belt was 70 euro plus vat that's around 117 dollars,but i managed to source a 7 rib 1425mm belt from a local supplier for 25 euro plus vat that's around 28 dollars,i'll report back when i have it fitted.
I also heard from Vince (stealth racing UK that the R32 belt is 1400mm long and fits,anyone any info on that ?


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (irish_TDI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *irish_TDI* »_
Will do Lew....
Bit of an update the T4 (eurovan) belt was 70 euro plus vat that's around 117 dollars,but i managed to source a 7 rib 1425mm belt from a local supplier for 25 euro plus vat that's around 28 dollars,i'll report back when i have it fitted.
I also heard from Vince (stealth racing UK that the R32 belt is 1400mm long and fits,anyone any info on that ? 

Nice work...Just remember to trim off one rib... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## all-starr-me (Jul 14, 2003)

*Re: ([email protected])*

The cogged setup includes the charger mounting brackets, or we have to find C2/AMS ones?
How much for a non A/C setup? how about non powersteering?
can you make a 25psi pulley? or a larger overdrive crank pulley for the cogged belt? or will the V1 T-trim overspin at 25psi?


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (all-starr-me)*

V1/V2's are rated at 23 psi, and at an 80% duty cycle they should not see more than 18 psi regularly....as this will shorten their operating lives.
also, max impeller speed for the V1/V2 is 55K rpms, again you should use this at an 80% load factor for longevity.
you may want to spend time on the Vortech site to get better acquainted with their chargers. Also, both units have been superceeded by newer designs with MUCH lower service ratings, so it's improtant to know exactly which charger you have and what you can expect from it.
here is the link to the impeller speed calculator:
http://www.vortechsupercharger...lator


----------



## slvr bullet (Aug 23, 2005)

*Re: Boost vs rpm (slvr bullet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slvr bullet* »_I'm thinking about trying to get a v1 charger. Just wanted to know what the boost levels are through out the rev range. On 98 vr6 12-14 psi pulley what ever info you guys have would be good non intercooled. Right now I have a stage 2 vf kit looking for a little more power. Maybe some boost alittle sooner also. 

anyone have any info on this


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: Boost vs rpm (slvr bullet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slvr bullet* »_
anyone have any info on this

use the link above to play with pulley sizes.....you can only spin the charger so fast. you can build boost quicker, as you go smaller, but then you have to deal with belt slip, or blowing up the charger.....it's a balancing act. boost levels are dependant upon MANY factors from valves in the head, to pluming size and length, intercooler, etc......there are some std #'s most are seeing with set-ups, but boost will vary.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: Boost vs rpm (.LSinLV.)*

Eurovan (99' VR6) w/ A/C. Serp. Belt P/N 021 145 933 K (24.92x1400mm, 7 DPK 1400) 
MK3 VR6 w/ A/C P/N 021 145 933 P (24.92x1360mm, 7 DPK 1360)
MK4 R32 Serp Belt. w/ A/C P/N 066 145 933 J (6 DPK 1320, 6 DK 1320, 21.36X1320mm)
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## irish_TDI (Mar 10, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Lew_Dog)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lew_Dog* »_
Nice work...Just remember to trim off one rib... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

There seems to be a few guys on here running 7 rib belts Lew,the pulleys have space for 7 ribs,would it not reduce my chances of slip with more belt contact??


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (irish_TDI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *irish_TDI* »_
There seems to be a few guys on here running 7 rib belts Lew,the pulleys have space for 7 ribs,would it not reduce my chances of slip with more belt contact??

Shane, I think that VF used a 6 rib for alignment purposes. I may be wrong. My belt actually hopped on the pulley until it got aligned propperly.


----------



## irish_TDI (Mar 10, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Lew_Dog)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lew_Dog* »_
Shane, I think that VF used a 6 rib for alignment purposes. I may be wrong. My belt actually hopped on the pulley until it got aligned propperly. 

Lew you might be on to something,the crank pulley seems to be sitting offset to the rest so you have to use the outside 6 on all the other pulleys and the inside six on the crank or the other way around i can't remember


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (irish_TDI)*

<3


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (irish_TDI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *irish_TDI* »_
Lew you might be on to something,the crank pulley seems to be sitting offset to the rest so you have to use the outside 6 on all the other pulleys and the inside six on the crank or the other way around i can't remember









i had the same problem.. ive been running a 7 ribbed for a while now though


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (MeCarTay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MeCarTay* »_<3


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Well its complete. All the bugs are worked out. Time for some dyno time in the near future.


----------



## kzy247365 (Dec 10, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*

Is that the Coup? I used to live in Louisville, I saw that car a few times. Whats new with it?


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*

there any idler pullies or anything for the charger? it seems like the belt just goes from the crank to the blower. sorry if i missed something


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Yes and Yes.
Thats the Coupe. I did a R front end. 
Yes there is a idler between the crank and charger, soon to be two. One on each side.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

I need to get some updated pics. These were from the first revision. 


































_Modified by littlenr at 5:05 PM 11-19-2009_


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

I've been building another car at the same time for a friend!


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*

I've got an electrical problem, looking for ideas, hopefully you guys have some.
Every time I start the car, my cluster goes blank (as thought it has no power) and my clock resets. The car runs fine after it is started, but if you shut it off, it will not start again. After some time, I may get lucky and i will crank and start. When it does not crank or start, it is completely dead. Key turn, nothing. What gives???
It sounds like a bad ground, right? But if it were, wouldn't the car not run at all, or exhibit some sort of terrible erratic behavior while running?
Is it due to my small Deka battery? Doesn't seem like it to me... The cluster goes blank and the clock resets even with a normal battery. Generally though, it is more likely it will start again with a normal battery.
Is it something else? Something wrong with my Mega Squirt? bad relay?
TIA guys


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (obdONE)*

some cars have two circuts in the ignition switch, one could be bad
i used to have a g60/********** setup @ 16 psi
i had no belt slip problems, 6 rib, 4 cyl
the oe spring tensioner pulley had about 170 degrees belt wrap, meaning the tensioner spring load was close to what the belt was experiencing.
a tensioner with 10 degrees belt wrap will have allot more leverage against the belt, inline, & the tensioner pulley should have more movement than the belt is expected to stretch
upon installation, i had the oe tensioner spring compressed to max & i had to stretch the belt even more to get it on
my point is:
when i would rev the 4 cyl up in neutral, with the over tight, belt too short, the belt would strech enough to let the tensioner completely stretch out, 1" 
that's two inches of belt stretch, not even @ redline, in neutral

Very nice looking two door http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
EDIT: i wouldn't of thought it stretched that much except i sawed it with my own eyes & can't help but think of it everytime i read this thread


_Modified by EL DRIFTO at 11:44 PM 11-19-2009_


----------



## jkillion (Feb 12, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_I've got an electrical problem, looking for ideas, hopefully you guys have some.

As stated above - definitely check the ignition switch itself - I had to replace mine a long time ago for similar problems. It's got a pretty weak little switch mechanism inside that can wear out over time


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (jkillion)*

Hrm.....
I replaced my starter switch about 2 years ago. My car was exhibiting close to the same behavior, but not exactly:
When cold (overnight, etc.), It wouldn't always start up on the first try when the switch was bad. Now it always starts up on the first try.
I don't remember the cluster going blank or the clock resetting.
I could try testing the starter switch, but I don't think that's the culprit and I don't think it would have gone bad again so soon.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_Hrm.....
I replaced my starter switch about 2 years ago. My car was exhibiting close to the same behavior, but not exactly:
When cold (overnight, etc.), It wouldn't always start up on the first try when the switch was bad. Now it always starts up on the first try.
I don't remember the cluster going blank or the clock resetting.
I could try testing the starter switch, but I don't think that's the culprit and I don't think it would have gone bad again so soon.

Jamie,
Check your fuse panel. My old MK2 OBD2 ABA swap use to randomly have the cluster go blank. Also had possessed temp and fuel gauges that would randomly flick back and forth when the car was off. Never got to the bottom of it. Check all your grounds for the fuse panel and perhaps swap out your cluster and see if another one exhibits the same thing.


----------



## 2hard2fixagain (Oct 3, 2009)

What all stock parts are needed to completely switch back to a na setup after installing a vf stage one kit?


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (2hard2fixagain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2hard2fixagain* »_What all stock parts are needed to completely switch back to a na setup after installing a vf stage one kit?

- Umm. 
Injectors
plugs
intake piping
belt
belt tensioner
airbox or cai
a plug or something to cap oil return line to pan
-edit - oh yeah, the chip.








?


_Modified by CorradoMagic at 10:30 PM 11-21-2009_


----------



## vanilla gorilla (Jul 7, 2004)

you going back to stock already? didnt you just SC your car?


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (2hard2fixagain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2hard2fixagain* »_What all stock parts are needed to completely switch back to a na setup after installing a vf stage one kit?

very little:
airbox & SAI lines
OEM chip
OEM aux belt and tensioner
relocate the washer bottle 
relocate the aux radiator
I think that's about it, as the VF STG I uses stock plugs, fuel pump and FPR.


_Modified by .LSinLV. at 6:44 PM 11-21-2009_


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*









Phil, Noah, thanks for the taste of things to come tonight. Looking forward to the dyno run Next Saturday. Just hope it doesn't snow!!


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Jamie,
Check your fuse panel. My old MK2 OBD2 ABA swap use to randomly have the cluster go blank. Also had possessed temp and fuel gauges that would randomly flick back and forth when the car was off. Never got to the bottom of it. Check all your grounds for the fuse panel and perhaps swap out your cluster and see if another one exhibits the same thing. 

Thanks Noah, I'll check that out. Hopefully tomorrow, but doubtful.


----------



## 2hard2fixagain (Oct 3, 2009)

*Re: (vanilla gorilla)*

no, I bought the vehicle supercharged and I would really just prefer a turbo over a supercharger.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

Anyone know if/where you can get a metal replacement for the plastic lower boost pipe in the mkIV vf kit? the piece coming off the charger down through the bends to go along the lower radiator area? I've chopped off most of the plastic pipe here and replaced with metal after assorted mishaps that have compromised the plastic. Here's a cruddy pic of the piece I'm looking for, the right pipe portion.


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (dasGolf01)*

If you haven't contacted VF yet, then give them a call. They had leftover metal piping and were trying to get rid of them.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Lew_Dog)*

Last time I tried, they said they didn't have any that it was too pricey to produce, I'll give it another shot. thanks


----------



## irish_TDI (Mar 10, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (dasGolf01)*

Das golf where did you get that plastic housing that goes over the Air filter,any more pics of it? Looks like it might offer some decent protection against the elements - what is the opening like to let air in? any more pics of it.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (irish_TDI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *irish_TDI* »_Das golf where did you get that plastic housing that goes over the Air filter,any more pics of it? Looks like it might offer some decent protection against the elements - what is the opening like to let air in? any more pics of it. 

VF used to sell that piece.


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (irish_TDI)*

Shane...Is the car back on the road??


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (irish_TDI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *irish_TDI* »_Das golf where did you get that plastic housing that goes over the Air filter,any more pics of it? Looks like it might offer some decent protection against the elements - what is the opening like to let air in? any more pics of it. 

What .LSinLV. said... mine came with my kit since I bought it new from them. 
It has 3 large holes on one side for allowing air in and it does do a pretty good job of protecting it. I run my bumpers open in the corners so the aux radiator on the other side gets good air flow and the intake gets good air flow and whenever I clean the filter, it's always in relatively good shape for the mileage. I dunno if they still sell them, though. It is a cool idea I'd think you "might" be able to mock up.
When I pull it apart in a week or two for my SRI, I'll get some good pics for you. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## irish_TDI (Mar 10, 2007)

I would really appreciate more pics Das cheers.
Lew belt should be arriving tomorrow,hope to fit it friday,i've been driving a Fiat punto for the last week : ( do you guys have them over there??


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (irish_TDI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *irish_TDI* »_
Lew belt should be arriving tomorrow,hope to fit it friday,i've been driving a Fiat punto for the last week : ( do you guys have them over there?? 

Haven't had Fiats in the States for decades...


----------



## irish_TDI (Mar 10, 2007)

*Re: (Lew_Dog)*

Count yourselves lucky!








What is the opinion on here on applying anti slipping agents to Belts? Something like graphite poweder or an anti slip spary? Anyone any opinions or experience?


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (irish_TDI)*

some belt dressing worked pretty good for me....the idler helped a little too


----------



## irish_TDI (Mar 10, 2007)

Lads got the car on the ramp today - the eurovan belt is way too small,could not get it on,im guessing maybe it fits the 12v Vr and not the 14v or something like that,so re fitted an old belt the other way around,car is running like a dream again.Next stop is a 1435mm belt and try that.
Cheers to everyone who helped me out esp Lew.
I now have a Vr euro-van belt i don't need so if anyone wants it let me know,id just need a few dollars ot cover postage and a few dollars for the belt (a lot less than what i paid for it) 
...
So i get the belt on a car running perfect and then what happens? my passenger window falls into the door! stoopid plastic VW window tabs : )


----------



## VR-tmills (Oct 19, 2009)

Hey guys,
Anyone selling the following;
C2 software (Or like) for #36 injectors
380cc (36lb/hr) or 315cc Injectors (30lb/hr)
12psi pulley (For V-1)
Belt to fit the smaller pulley
Let me know what you guys got, really looking to upgrade. Mahaloz

EDIT:
Another quick help from the experts;
My AMS setup has the stock pulley on, but i'm only seeing 5psi(@6300-6500) ??? (Supposed to be 8-8.5) What could be the problem?
Any help is much appreciated http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by VR-tmills at 6:33 PM 11-28-2009_

_Modified by VR-tmills at 6:37 PM 11-28-2009_


_Modified by VR-tmills at 4:09 PM 11-30-2009_


----------



## VR-tmills (Oct 19, 2009)

Bump this up


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (VR-tmills)*

the low boost is most likely one of 2 things 
1. belt slip
2. boost leak


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

But how its the best method to adjust the belt for no slip but not to tight for get problems with the water pump or the alternator? Any tips?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (Bo0sted_Rafi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bo0sted_Rafi* »_But how its the best method to adjust the belt for no slip but not to tight for get problems with the water pump or the alternator? Any tips?

Cogged pulleys would take care of that








Are you burning through serpentine belts currently? Because your alignment could be off and like websaabn said it could very well be a vac/boost leak. Whats your vac at idle?
Either way an off the shelf serpentine v1 should be seeing over 5psi with an 8psi pulley.


----------



## VReihen6 (Aug 7, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Cogged pulleys would take care of that








Are you burning through serpentine belts currently? Because your alignment could be off and like websaabn said it could very well be a vac/boost leak. Whats your vac at idle?
Either way an off the shelf serpentine v1 should be seeing over 5psi with an 8psi pulley.

Has anyone been running a cogged setup with a v1 pushing over 15psi yet? I saw the 19psi pulley is available on your website, Just wondering if anyone has experimented with this yet! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

I've been running cogged, 15# on a V1. I will max the impellar at around 6500rpm IIRC. This is where the rated psi is.
On a 19# pulley I'd recommend ABEC 9 bearings for charger longevity.
However, I will have to say. if your break max impellar speed after 6xxxrpm w/ whatever pulley, it will be for a VERY brief moment as things are a bit wicked here LOL.
A 19# pulley wil make more boost, sooner. If you stay under 6xxx rpm you wont see 19#, but you will not likely break impellar max either. 
I'm sure Noah wil post up exact rpm to boost ratios for each pulley & also rated max impellar speeds for the V1. 
*Typically after 12-14#, you would max an OBD1 MAF, but if this is for your OBD2 24v you'd be just fine










_Modified by CorradoMagic at 9:21 PM 11-30-2009_


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (VReihen6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VReihen6* »_
Has anyone been running a cogged setup with a v1 pushing over 15psi yet? I saw the 19psi pulley is available on your website, Just wondering if anyone has experimented with this yet! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif









Only the larger trim blowers can handle 19psi.


----------



## VR-tmills (Oct 19, 2009)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Just put a new one on, it took one rib off after a few minutes :/ but now its fine.
Its at 12.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (VR-tmills)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VR-tmills* »_Just put a new one on, it took one rib off after a few minutes :/ but now its fine.
Its at 12.

Keep an eye on it. It sounds like the alignment is a few millimeters off.


----------



## VReihen6 (Aug 7, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Only the larger trim blowers can handle 19psi. 

I thought the website says the V1 can handle a max of 26#?
Maybe I'm dumb and completely missing something here. How would I calculate impeller speed vs RPM vs #. That would be a nice graph to have.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (VReihen6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VReihen6* »_
I thought the website says the V1 can handle a max of 26#?
Maybe I'm dumb and completely missing something here. How would I calculate impeller speed vs RPM vs #. That would be a nice graph to have. 

You will almost always over spin a blower before you reach its "max boost".
We are going to be releasing our calculator very soon, for you guys to use for calculating both serpentine and cogged configurations. Our intent is for you guys to be able to spec out and know whats safe and what isn't and keep things within the limits without blowing things up inadvertently.


----------



## VReihen6 (Aug 7, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
You will almost always over spin a blower before you reach its "max boost".
We are going to be releasing our calculator very soon, for you guys to use for calculating both serpentine and cogged configurations. Our intent is for you guys to be able to spec out and know whats safe and what isn't and keep things within the limits without blowing things up inadvertently.









****ing beautiful http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif









Keep it up, I look forward to it.


----------



## VR-tmills (Oct 19, 2009)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Keep an eye on it. It sounds like the alignment is a few millimeters off.

Anyway to align it correctly??


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (VR-tmills)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VR-tmills* »_
Anyway to align it correctly??


In your case a shim would probably do the trick. Post up some pictures of your setup and if possible grab a straight edge (ruler). Its the easiest way to check alignment. Chances are its the shim between the head and the bracket, but it could also be the spacing on the back side of the pulley.


----------



## VR-tmills (Oct 19, 2009)

Alright, i'll throw some pics up tomorro.
Thanks guys


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (VReihen6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VReihen6* »_
I thought the website says the V1 can handle a max of 26#?
Maybe I'm dumb and completely missing something here. How would I calculate impeller speed vs RPM vs #. That would be a nice graph to have. 

V1's and V2's wer rated at 22 psi and the V9 was rated at 25psi....ALL have been downgraded and repalced by "newer" models by Vortech
Impeller speed calculator for their site:
http://www.vortechsupercharger...lator


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

When are we going to see pics of your setup Larry??


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (Lew_Dog)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lew_Dog* »_When are we going to see pics of your setup Larry??









I'll take some....what specificially do you want to see???? it will be changing drastically over the next few months anyways....
to the new posters here, my car was the Beta test car for VF Engineering and their "Stage IV" S/C build that never was.....as far as I know I am the only MKIV running a DIRECT DRIVE S/C, crank driven S/C.
the Original dyno #'s were in my opionion too high and I think NOT valid...as I have been tweeking the set up for more and more power, and finding that VF's #'s were very high (never been able to duplicate their #'s).


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

Well, was kind of wanting to see the direct drive setup and if the pipe routing was any different. What is in the works? Going to do something with Verdict??


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (Lew_Dog)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lew_Dog* »_Well, was kind of wanting to see the direct drive setup and if the pipe routing was any different. What is in the works? Going to do something with Verdict??

plumbing is the same as the VF STG III kit. I'll take pics (what I can of the drive). 
as for future work, yes, Phil and Noah are working on some custom items for my kit. I still have to install the Schimmel SRIM, and then I will be upgrading the impeller with Carl's CNC'd unit so I can flow more air, and spin more rpms. so far the V2SQ has been pretty stout with no issues.....hope I didn't jinx it.







so it should be good to run to ~65K rpms with his impeller....
once all of the above mods have been complete I will be working with Unitronic on custom programming, as the GIAC in the car was never really completed, and is NOT optimized for what the car has even right now.


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.LSinLV.* »_
plumbing is the same as the VF STG III kit. I'll take pics (what I can of the drive). 
.

PSH...Pull the front bumper...








With all this Verdict work coming out, I'm sad that I sold my car.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.LSinLV.* »_
I'll take some....what specificially do you want to see???? it will be changing drastically over the next few months anyways....
to the new posters here, my car was the Beta test car for VF Engineering and their "Stage IV" S/C build that never was.....as far as I know I am the only MKIV running a DIRECT DRIVE S/C, crank driven S/C.
the Original dyno #'s were in my opionion too high and I think NOT valid...as I have been tweeking the set up for more and more power, and finding that VF's #'s were very high (never been able to duplicate their #'s).


My mkIV has direct drive. I made it all my self. Look back a few pages for the pics.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_

My mkIV has direct drive. I made it all my self. Look back a few pages for the pics.

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I did say "as far as I know"







let's see some dyno #'s!


----------



## pressplay (Jun 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
For those with cams, what are you seeing for vacumn at idle and while engine braking?

Sorry guys. I am little behind on the strings. I have a VF Stage 2 set up with 256 cams and I am seeing 24Hg while engine braking and 18 at idle. Is this what I should expect to see for this set up?
thanks


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (pressplay)*

You all seen this yet?
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4570257
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Lew_Dog)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lew_Dog* »_You all seen this yet?
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4570257
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

FYI - my "STGIV" kit is based off of the R32 STGIII kit....


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (.LSinLV.)*

AH! OK...No need to take pic-tars...


----------



## pressplay (Jun 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (pressplay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pressplay* »_
Sorry guys. I am little behind on the strings. I have a VF Stage 2 set up with 256 cams and I am seeing 24Hg while engine braking and 18 at idle. Is this what I should expect to see for this set up?
thanks

I really need some help. I am trying to find out if there is leak as I am only seeing 4-5 psi at 6k. Been told I should see 6psi at 6k with Stage 2. checked all the coupling and couldn't find any noticealbe leaks. The belt looks fine but eventually will go with cogged set up. Let me know if my vacuum # looks ok or any ideas what might be the problem.
thanks


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (pressplay)*

I'm running Stage 2, V9 with 262's and I'm around 17-19Hg at idle. I hit 6-7psi at 7k usually. But I know I have a bit of leak here and there from my manifold being compromised, thus I am waiting for my SRI to get here.
I've had some odd and random boots and vacuum leaks here and there. I found the best thing for "fixing" was to loosen all the hose clamps and sort of re-orient the boost pipe, feeling to make sure it's all solid and pointing as best you can. I've had my diverter valve bung on the plastic part of the boost pipe crush before too when I torqued the clamp down too much. Now I'm trying to source a metal part for that portion of the pipe. 
Anyhow, I'd check those few spots, maybe redo the pipe's clamps and I can usually check easily for belt slip on mine by waiting until it's really warm and then rev it pretty high, the slip will make a noise.. or if you're into boost and you feel the power... shift a bit.







I'm still relatively new to the whole forced induction/sc thing, though. Good luck http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

stge 2 should be closer to 8# IIRC ?
Is your gauge accurate?
24/18hg is great!
go over vacuum lines, couplers, T fittings, hard/plastic vac. lines, etc.


----------



## pressplay (Jun 25, 2008)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_stge 2 should be closer to 8# IIRC ?
Is your gauge accurate?
24/18hg is great!
go over vacuum lines, couplers, T fittings, hard/plastic vac. lines, etc.

_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf1* »_ I'm running Stage 2, V9 with 262's and I'm around 17-19Hg at idle. I hit 6-7psi at 7k usually. But I know I have a bit of leak here and there from my manifold being compromised, thus I am waiting for my SRI to get here.
I've had some odd and random boots and vacuum leaks here and there. I found the best thing for "fixing" was to loosen all the hose clamps and sort of re-orient the boost pipe, feeling to make sure it's all solid and pointing as best you can. I've had my diverter valve bung on the plastic part of the boost pipe crush before too when I torqued the clamp down too much. Now I'm trying to source a metal part for that portion of the pipe. 
Anyhow, I'd check those few spots, maybe redo the pipe's clamps and I can usually check easily for belt slip on mine by waiting until it's really warm and then rev it pretty high, the slip will make a noise.. or if you're into boost and you feel the power... shift a bit. I'm still relatively new to the whole forced induction/sc thing, though. Good luck 
.


Thanks Guys. I will make another round on this and maybe I missed something the first time. 
By the way, I noticed i have to top off my engine oil every 4-5 months by about 1/4 quart. Is this normal considering it's Synthetic? I don't see any leaks any where and not sure if it's norm for SC.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (pressplay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pressplay* »_

Thanks Guys. I will make another round on this and maybe I missed something the first time. 
By the way, I noticed i have to top off my engine oil every 4-5 months by about 1/4 quart. Is this normal considering it's Synthetic? I don't see any leaks any where and not sure if it's norm for SC.


How many miles in the time period?


----------



## pressplay (Jun 25, 2008)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_

How many miles in the time period?

About 2300 miles.


----------



## mim (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (dasGolf01)*

Do, the SRI give you any diference because I also have the same set up on my rado and I also see only 6-7 at the most at 7k and I have a SRI custom made from juan overhere and I haven't put it on the car yet, so the SRI would made a difference in a car?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (mim)*

you will lose a tad bit of boost going with an intercooler. just putting the short runner on and running pipes to it, you shouldnt see a drop.
about the boost leak question, you should pressure test the system from the charger, and listen for leaks. best way to find you issues. nowm the quick and very simple way is tighten the hell out of the belt, take it for a quick ride and see what your boost is it. then loosen it and put it back to the recommended tension.


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

*Re: (pressplay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pressplay* »_
About 2300 miles.

.25 quart every 2300 miles? thats not so bad. if the engine feels good, i would just continue to keep an eye on the oil level and enjoy.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (pressplay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pressplay* »_
About 2300 miles.

Sounds better than normal. Typical from minor leaks from the charger/pan/pcv is around 1/2' qt every 3k.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.LSinLV.* »_
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I did say "as far as I know"







let's see some dyno #'s! 

I blew the clutch. So right now I'm working on breaking in a South Bend stage 3. Once that is done. I'll get to the dyno!


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_
I blew the clutch. So right now I'm working on breaking in a South Bend stage 3. Once that is done. I'll get to the dyno!









Damn, sorry to hear Nate. Did you ever upgrade to the 42s?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Damn, sorry to hear Nate. Did you ever upgrade to the 42s?

Not yet. I haven't had a issue. The cooler weather is helping elude it.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_
Not yet. I haven't had a issue. The cooler weather is helping elude it. 

How old is your 36lb tune? We got the MK4 on the dyno last week and ran out of fuel just over 6k.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
How old is your 36lb tune? We got the MK4 on the dyno last week and ran out of fuel just over 6k.



a few months old. I had Chris/ Jeff set me up for whats on the car. No sai/evap, R32 throttle body on my custom short runner with a front mount. I'll know for sure when I get to the dyno. I'm sure there is more to be had!!
What numbers were you seeing before 6k on the set up Phil?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_

a few months old. I had Chris/ Jeff set me up for whats on the car. No sai/evap, R32 throttle body on my custom short runner with a front mount. I'll know for sure when I get to the dyno. I'm sure there is more to be had!!
What numbers were you seeing before 6k on the set up Phil?

Ours tune is a year or so old and has the write-outs as well. On a 13psi pulley at 6k we made 298 @10.5 psi. Around 6100 it starts breaking up and the air fuels go to hell. Going to go the 415 or 440 route and a custom tune.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Phil could you just toss in a 4 bar FPR and see if that makes a difference? That would be similar to a 415cc injector with 380cc and a 4 bar.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_Phil could you just toss in a 4 bar FPR and see if that makes a difference? That would be similar to a 415cc injector with 380cc and a 4 bar.

Its actually been running a 4 bar with the current 380cc injectors.


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

finally i've read all 52 pages!!
damn 3 days









great thread...
but still i have few noobe questions...
i've just bought vf 9 stage 2 kit for corrado
sorry for the bad Q-ty:








1.what are numbers of injectors in stage 2 if its possible to get any information about it...on mine numbers are erased(red-cherry colour i guess) are they 330cc?
2.stock fuel pomp will do??my friend adviced me to change it to walbro 255 in tank,is this necessary?
3.the kit is from 2.8l obd1(6 pin maf) with module rhd corrado UK,the kit was installed in vf engineering agent and I wonder what soft may be in te ECU...maf before blower,pulley 2.70...last dyno showed 280HP and 360tq
is this possible??
4. oil drain- i dont feel good drilling the block so pan will do??
5. whay gauges i need in first place to keep safety? wideband afr,boost,oil prassure?
6.transmision - will it live for a while?








blower has las then 10k km of running...
sorry for bad english and thanks for reply...








new to the S/C vr6 family
p.s. i have 2.8 corrado


_Modified by Praks at 11:15 PM 12-4-2009_


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (Praks)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Praks* »_...last dyno showed 280HP and *360tq* is this possible??

no....that tq # is more akin to a turbo, a big turbo at that....I'd suspect that if the engine dyno'd 280hp, then the tq would be about ~235tq or so.
stock fuel pump will support stg II no issues
pan drain will do, but get it as high as possbile.....block is better though
trans/clutch will be fine, but an LSD is really nice if you have the $$$
all 3 gauges you listed are good, but an A/F and Boost are a must....oil pressure is nice but not needed..I prefer oil temp over that.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (Praks)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Praks* »_finally i've read all 52 pages!!
damn 3 days








great thread...
but still i have few noobe questions...
i've just bought vf 9 stage 2 kit for corrado
sorry for the bad Q-ty:








1.what are numbers of injectors in stage 2 if its possible to get any information about it...on mine numbers are erased(red-cherry colour i guess) are they 330cc?
2.stock fuel pomp will do??my friend adviced me to change it to walbro 255 in tank,is this necessary?
3.the kit is from 2.8l obd1(6 pin maf) with module rhd corrado UK,the kit was installed in vf engineering agent and I wonder what soft may be in te ECU...maf before blower,pulley 2.70...last dyno showed 280HP and 360tq
is this possible??
4. oil drain- i dont feel good drilling the block so pan will do??
5. whay gauges i need in first place to keep safety? wideband afr,boost,oil prassure?
6.transmision - will it live for a while?








blower has las then 10k km of running...
sorry for bad english and thanks for reply...








new to the S/C vr6 family
p.s. i have 2.8 corrado

_Modified by Praks at 12:54 PM 12-4-2009_

1. Stg 2 injectors are 30# 315cc
2. Stock fuel pump will be sufficient for a stg2 setup. It may be worth swapping out your stock pump depending on its age, but a good running SLC (VR) pump will be fine.
3. VF uses GIAC, so I imagine that is whats installed in the ecu. You can remove the four torq screws and slide out the board to verify. 280hp and 360tq seems a bit far fetched. Perhaps thats crank, but even 300whp supercharged cars are only producing 230-240whtq. 
4. Return going to the pan is suggested. Just make sure you use the proper size line and it doesn't have any sharp bends and where it connects to the pan IS the lowest point in the line and as high as possible on the pan.
5. As far as gauges go a wideband is not necessary unless you're constantly making adjustments to the map. I'd run an autometer that reads boost/vac and your SLC should have an oil pressure gauge currently. If not it wouldn't be a bad idea to get one.
6. Transmission and clutch will be fine for 300+whp. Depending whether or not you daily the car a diff and lightened flywheel would add to your driving experience. 
Have fun and be sure to post up once you get everything installed http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

many thakns to u guys








i was woried because so many info from other directions and that makes me realy confiused








i don't have SLC unfortunetly








it's ex G60 with 2.8l little moded...
i have intake and throttle from 2.9 and 2.5 exhaust...
the dyno numbers are at the crank not on wheels but i don't know the diffrence in % between hp and whp,tq and wtq
ok so i'll just install the kit as it is no changes at the moment and go dyno








generaly i dont want big numbers rather reliability
but what real numbers i can get on this kit??
greets from Poland


----------



## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

*Re: (Praks)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Praks* »_many thakns to u guys








he dyno numbers are at the crank not on wheels but i don't know the diffrence in % between hp and whp,tq and wtq


its probably supposed to be 260tq.
the VF unit will never make higher peak TQ than HP.


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

*Re: (TBT-Syncro)*

u mean 260tq on the crank??
it's rather low
right now with remaped ecu my tq on the crank lvl is nearly close to that...
oo and what with the fuel pressure regulator...it that kit was 4bar...in 2.8l i have 3 bar...should i change it??


_Modified by Praks at 1:04 AM 12-5-2009_


----------



## artym (Aug 6, 2006)

*Re: (Praks)*

no







for what


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

*Re: (Praks)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Praks* »_u mean 260tq on the crank??
it's rather low
right now with remaped ecu my tq on the crank lvl is nearly close to that...
oo and what with the fuel pressure regulator...it that kit was 4bar...in 2.8l i have 3 bar...should i change it??

_Modified by Praks at 1:04 AM 12-5-2009_


vf says you should use a 4 bar. corrado slc cars with the 2.8 have that from the start, while other 2.8l have the 3 bar. the oil return in the block was done because vortec was giving people a hard time on warranty saying that the return line was too low in some oil pans and because of that they did not want to warranty some superchargers due to oil starvation issues because the oil was not coming out/being blocked at the return line. true or not, that is what i have heard, which is why vf says to tap the block. i have done this on two blocks now, with no issue's to speak of. the air/fuel is a must as is the boost gauge for me. if you do anything other than 100% stock setup on the motor(cams,valves,etc), the motor will run lean under boost with the giac software. if you did a swap on a g60, then a oil pressure gauge would be great as well. good luck with the install, it is not too bad. also, i did not see an electrical box that ties into/between the maf and ecu(came with my stage 2 kit). the maf goes before the supercharger and you should put at least a foot/1/3 meter between the plastic intake on the supercharger and the maf. stalling may be an issue otherwise. cheers....


----------



## [email protected] (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (angelod307)*

I chewed up a belt on a single idler VF stage 3 V9 setup yesterday.
This is about a week after sucking up some water and the car not starting until 6 hours later. 
The supercharger pulley looks pretty shiny, so I'm wondering if it locked up. Or the a/c compressor could have locked up from having the belt so tight. Its only a few months old though.
So for christmas, I'll be buying myself a supercharger rebulid and/or a new a/c compressor. 
For now I need to order a belt. So Eurovan belt right?


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

*Re: (angelod307)*


_Quote, originally posted by *angelod307* »_
i did not see an electrical box that ties into/between the maf and ecu

i have it...its just missing on the foto...


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

*Re: (Praks)*

What are my choices for a new 2.75" pulley.. My Old 2.83" is showing a lot of wear and I want to get a new one.
Also what sort of belt do folks like the best. Gatorback or a diffrent brand.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (Scooter98144)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Scooter98144* »_What are my choices for a new 2.75" pulley.. My Old 2.83" is showing a lot of wear and I want to get a new one.
Also what sort of belt do folks like the best. Gatorback or a diffrent brand.

I have a Vortech 2.75" pulley that has maybe 200 miles on it. It's an 8 rib, but I didn't have any problems with it (belt jumping or anything). Let me know if you're interested.
I am also running a Gatorback which seems to be good. Gates just came out with that new belt that is self tightening, may want to look into that.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: ([email protected])*

I don't suppose anyone would happen to have a fpr adapter for a 6an fuel rail? (my bad, 8 AN)
Just looking to cut down the cost a shade if possible. 
Something akin to one of these folks:
























Thanks folks


_Modified by dasGolf01 at 6:04 PM 12-9-2009_


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

^ 
We've used both the Schimmel and 034 FPR adapters (they're identical). They work alright, the only downside being its hard to get everything to seal. We use a Permatex sealant rated for petroleum and that seams to be the best. Also unless your fuel rail already has a swivel built into it I suggest you get one, so you can position the FPR adapter accordingly. I know for a fact if you thread it directly into the Schimmel it won't give you the angle you want and from there you can't adjust it anymore.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Cool,
Thanks for those tips, always good to hear from people who have used them.


----------



## dankvdubber6407 (Jul 10, 2003)

i have a question for ya guys. i have a mk4 r32 with vf stage 1. i am having a problem of not being able to de-tension the supercharger all the way because the oil return fitting on the bottem of the charger is hitting the hard a/c lines that run under it. is there a fix to this? or am i gonna have to raise the engine everytime i need to change the belt? any help would be awesome!


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (dankvdubber6407)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dankvdubber6407* »_i have a question for ya guys. i have a mk4 r32 with vf stage 1. i am having a problem of not being able to de-tension the supercharger all the way because the oil return fitting on the bottem of the charger is hitting the hard a/c lines that run under it. is there a fix to this? or am i gonna have to raise the engine everytime i need to change the belt? any help would be awesome!

Take some pictures. Might be able to set you up with some fittings to move it away from the A/C hardline.


----------



## elicitvr6 (Jan 10, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*

So I had planned on purchasing a VF Stage 3 upgrade for my 98 VR this winter, only to find out that VF no longer offers the Stage 3 upgrade. So now I'm left wondering what I can do to squeeze a bit more power out of my V9. Any suggestions? I can't even find what was included in the discontinued VF kit so I'm at a loss. Pulley size, injectors, chip, dual idler setups??? I really want to keep the SC setup but would like a bit more power, I don't want to have to scrap everything and start over or go turbo. I like the charger a lot and want to stick with it.
Thanks in advance. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (elicitvr6)*

that kit is a single idler and would require a 2nd/helper fuel pump as well as bigger injectors. I forgot the pulley size.
as for more power you are on the ragged edge with that V9...about 10 psi/rpm's. any more speed and you will damage the seals and bearings.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

I think the stage 3 had a front mount as well, but I'm not certain.
I would imagine injectors are 30# maybe 36# but I doubt it.
in line pump would likely be a 255lph unit, although with 30# injectors I do not see that being a necessity.
Pulley size is 2.5"
and yes a single idler, or as VF calls it - A/C delete pulley
and also probably stage 3 software?
If your car is OBD2, you would likely benefit more from going with a C2 stage 2 setup, rather than trying to mimic the VF kit. I had horrible luck with my C2 setup, but I was OBD1. Others have had some success.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_I think the stage 3 had a front mount as well, but I'm not certain.

you are correct...in fact, the plumbing for it is very wierdly routed UNDER the engine then up near the exhaust manifold to feed the TB.


----------



## elicitvr6 (Jan 10, 2002)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

I think the IC for the Stage 3's was actually a side mount, I remember talking with a VF rep and asking if I could get the kit sans the IC because I wanted to go FM instead. 
I know I won't be able to safely push more than 10 psi from the V9 and that's OK really, my biggest concern is the program/fueling. I've heard good things about C2 so I'll have to get on the phone with them and see what they recommend. There's going to be a bit of work getting done to the motor (cams, P&P, 2.9 clone intake, in addition to an overall refresh/overhaul) so I want to make sure all of those factors are taken into consideration when it comes to the chip. 
Thanks guys, keep the info coming. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Have fun and be sure to post up once you get everything installed http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


ok so i clean up a bit the kit,filters, change the bearing on ac delete bracket and opened ECU to find out what soft is inside...and i dk...
















now im waiting on my friend who do the electrics and we'll be getting started


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (Praks)*

probably a C2 chip. They generally don't put any markings (sticker, writing, etc.) on their obd1 chips. If you have Vag-Com you can scan it and it will tell you who the chip maker is.


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

*Re: (obdONE)*

the kit was installed in vf eng. agent...so a dont think so they colud put a c2 chip....the only thing i know is that they adjusted it individualy to the car...


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (Praks)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Praks* »_the kit was installed in vf eng. agent...so a dont think so they colud put a c2 chip....*the only thing i know is that they adjusted it individualy to the car...*

who told you that?








because it's no true.....


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

I was thinking the same thing - "since when is GIAC software manipulable?"


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.LSinLV.* »_
who told you that?








because it's no true.....

seller of the kit...








so u cant adjust soft from the vf??


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (Praks)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Praks* »_
seller of the kit...








so u cant adjust soft from the vf??

other than Lemmiwink/Unisetting, which adjusts the base code that the ECU uses to run the programs, no.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

solved my starting problem saturday with a combination of moving the battery closer to the starter and running 0 gauge wire. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_solved my starting problem saturday with a combination of moving the battery closer to the starter and running 0 gauge wire. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Glad to hear Jamie


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*

nice Jamie. glad to hear youre getting things together http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
my friends got my motor back up and running. big thanks to them for handling it, since i have no time/space right now to do it.
should get some dynojet numbers this time around, and see where we stand and where we may still change things.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Thanks Phil, I'm just waiting on my little goodie from you and Noah now







soon as I get it and swap it on the blower, I'll be taking the car to a MS tuner down here for a full road and dyno tune. I can't freaking wait!
Thanks also to you mike. I'm glad to hear that your motor is back together. Time to make some real power now! I'll be jointing you in the club soon, hopefully.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

So as I have my front end apart to put in the SRI, fuel rail, etc... I was debating dropping the SAI/kombi valve crap. Now I know it will cause a CEL, but are there other items I need to watch out for? 
As to the CEL, I remember reading something about Reflex having a program to get rid of the CEL and also that C2 does as well, anyone have any tips/hints/ideas on the CEL idea?
I'm not terribly worried about the CEL, more worried about will the car run okay, is there anything else I need to do. It should clean up some of my vacuum lines and such which I'm looking forward to..


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_So as I have my front end apart to put in the SRI, fuel rail, etc... I was debating dropping the SAI/kombi valve crap. Now I know it will cause a CEL, but are there other items I need to watch out for? 
As to the CEL, I remember reading something about Reflex having a program to get rid of the CEL and also that C2 does as well, anyone have any tips/hints/ideas on the CEL idea?
I'm not terribly worried about the CEL, more worried about will the car run okay, is there anything else I need to do. It should clean up some of my vacuum lines and such which I'm looking forward to.. 


For 100.00 I had C2 write out the evap and secondary air. I plugged the hole in the head with a freeze plug and no CEL!!


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_

For 100.00 I had C2 write out the evap and secondary air. I plugged the hole in the head with a freeze plug and no CEL!!









thats covered in their newest version of their software.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Jamie, I got you an early Christmas present







Check your IM's


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Jamie, I got you an early Christmas present







Check your IM's

gotchya back!


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

How fast do your rpms rise and fall with the l.w. flywheels? I recently had mine re-surfaced and a new clutch installed. Wow! IT revs fast and drops even faster. I'm just curious what you guys experience. I'm running a South Bend stage 3 clutch and a 11lb auto tech steel flywheel.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_How fast do your rpms rise and fall with the l.w. flywheels? I recently had mine re-surfaced and a new clutch installed. Wow! IT revs fast and drops even faster. I'm just curious what you guys experience. I'm running a South Bend stage 3 clutch and a 11lb auto tech steel flywheel.
 
I have the AT 11lb unit and it has been great! much faster spooling, but downshifting rev-matching is a bit more difficult.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (.LSinLV.)*

I've had the flywheel for a long time. It was paired up with a spec clutch before. I'm not a fan of the spec now that I have a south bend clutch.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_How fast do your rpms rise and fall with the l.w. flywheels? I recently had mine re-surfaced and a new clutch installed. Wow! IT revs fast and drops even faster. I'm just curious what you guys experience. I'm running a South Bend stage 3 clutch and a 11lb auto tech steel flywheel.

10lb here, been running it since 2007. Love it with the short gearing and sticky tires. Mine revs so fast that the tach is almost useless (shift light might be a safe investment) they drop almost instantly without fail.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_
thats covered in their newest version of their software.

_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_
thats covered in their newest version of their software.

Awesome... that's good to hear. thanks folks.


----------



## sharp138 (Feb 15, 2001)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

hi, i was referred to this link based on the fact that im considering getting the stage 1 from vfengineering. After going through all of these pages reading all the problems that ppl are having with superchargers especially the V9s. would it be better for me to go with a turbo? im looking for reliabilty but also to stay within my budget and it sounds like the V9 charger would be a waste of my money if i decide to upgrade later on to stage 2 with more boost. Im not looking to go crazy on horsepower, we all know turbo is the way to go with tha but i would like to drive my vr6 everyday without having to worry about belt slip, CEL. etc. do u guys think that i would be wasting my money by going with a V9?


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

*Re: (sharp138)*

Go to Verdict Engineering if you want to go supercharged. Turbos are great if you want mad hp's, but be prepaired to spend $$ upgrading your brakes etc. Of course, it depends on whre you want to limit yourself Horsepower is very adictive. The more you get the more you want, little like heroin i think... LOL







If you want more info, im me... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

any of u guys runing 16.5 lb steel flywheel from seasons tuning, reason i ask , due to having dual mass flywheels breaking up i fitted one to my r32 hybrid turbo setup , and tbh havent noticed any real change in better responce tbh, could be a number of reasons below
stand alone setup
no vvt
laggy turbo
modifyed 02m gearbox ratios
could list a full spec if needed , as the engine feels rather retard/dead before full boost comes in at 4200rpm with the holset turbo
heres my engine spec holset hx40/t3/14hotside(20/25psi)
100mm induction 
3inch straight thew exhaust
560cc inectors 3bar
60mm wastegate
50mm adjustable dumpvalve
standalone ecu ms1 v3 /400kpa map sensor
twinscroll manifold
r32 stock head
2.8 stock bottom end
8.5 headspacer
16.5 steel solid flywheel/ 5 paddle ceramic clutch
6peed 02m tdi ratios
4wd stock
215 40 17 tyres



_Modified by adaptorman at 8:20 PM 12-26-2009_


----------



## sharp138 (Feb 15, 2001)

*Re: (groupracer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *groupracer* »_Go to Verdict Engineering if you want to go supercharged. Turbos are great if you want mad hp's, but be prepaired to spend $$ upgrading your brakes etc. Of course, it depends on whre you want to limit yourself Horsepower is very adictive. The more you get the more you want, little like heroin i think... LOL







If you want more info, im me... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

i went to their site and didnt see any supercharger kits.


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

*Re: (sharp138)*

I should have elaborated more, I meant to talk to them personally. Kits are good, but VF's lacks the ability to do anything else but just install their stuff. It's all built on a stock setup and while that's ok for some people, It is just too limiting. Without talking to some one directly who can give you the right information, you are just buying their idea, not your own. Phil and Noah at Verdict will give you a down to earth explanation of your options, whether you want to do a supercharger,or go turbo. I have been doing stuff wth them of almost 4 years now, and I didn't even do anything for almost a year except ask a lot of questions and decide eventually what I wanted to do, without dumping huge $$ at them first.
Did you read the entire thread? If you haven't I suggest you do, as well as some of the other treads that are here on the forced induction forum. I'm not trying to sway you one way or another, because it's your choice on what you want to do, but be prepaired for some outlandish claims and some real strong opnions on what you should do. That's why I suggest you tlak to them first befor you go much further. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

anyone know the measurement between the alternator bolts on a VR? I'm thinking of making a dual idler pulley set for some friends. I have all the materials. Just not sure off the top of my head the measurements. I can get them easy enough. I'm stuck at work for now.


_Modified by littlenr at 2:59 PM 12-28-2009_


----------



## Slampig (Jun 20, 2008)

*FV-QR*

anyone have pics of the pipe that goes from blower to TB on a stg.1 vf MK4 R32 or 24v VR6?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_anyone know the measurement between the alternator bolts on a VR? I'm thinking of making a dual idler pulley set for some friends. I have all the materials. Just not sure off the top of my head the measurements. I can get them easy enough. I'm stuck at work for now.

_Modified by littlenr at 2:59 PM 12-28-2009_

80mm from the start of the thread to the back side of the head, 93mm overall 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
80mm from the start of the thread to the back side of the head, 93mm overall 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


Thank you sir!!


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (Slampig)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Slampig* »_anyone have pics of the pipe that goes from blower to TB on a stg.1 vf MK4 R32 or 24v VR6?









They come out of the charger just under the head light. turns down and runs behind the radiator. then pops up where the pic shows.


----------



## Roadhog_ (Feb 26, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*

Is there such a thing as a cog setup that works with an AC compressor?


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

Happy New Year everyone! 
^ Yes, there is. But install can be quite difficult. It exists, I have mine cogged w/AC. Noah, wanna do another?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Roadhog_)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Roadhog_* »_Is there such a thing as a cog setup that works with an AC compressor?

For the mk3/corrado its possible and we've done it before like Keith said, however its a fairly involved process for us to make and not something we keep on the shelf.


----------



## Roadhog_ (Feb 26, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
For the mk3/corrado its possible and we've done it before like Keith said, however its a fairly involved process for us to make and not something we keep on the shelf.

How much more expensive?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Roadhog_)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Roadhog_* »_
How much more expensive?

Check your PMs


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

Anyone else here ever use the BBM FPR adapter for the MkIII/MkIV? I'm finding the clip that holds down the FPR doesn't fit through the milled slots so I've been shaving away, but I'm wondering if there's a better idea that I'm brain farting past as I'm devoting most of my brain to getting all this stuff rerouted, removed, etc to fit the SRI in. thanks.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_Anyone else here ever use the BBM FPR adapter for the MkIII/MkIV? I'm finding the clip that holds down the FPR doesn't fit through the milled slots so I've been shaving away, but I'm wondering if there's a better idea that I'm brain farting past as I'm devoting most of my brain to getting all this stuff rerouted, removed, etc to fit the SRI in. thanks.
















Don't shave it! I installed one on my car last week and it fit without issue. There are four slots for the clip, try installing it with the clip coming in from the other and you should be good.









- Phil


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

thanks man, finally got it to more or less work. it's solid, after a bit of coaxing with a sanding block and a rubber mallet.. hehehehe.. here's to testing the new fuel rail stuff today, then finish up the vacuum rerouting and boost tube.. maybe have the car on the road some time this week. hahaha


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (dasGolf01)*

So whats everyone working on? Its been rather quiet on here lately.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

I've been trying to figure out what I want to do with the R32.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

Almost done with the SRI stuff... lots more to it than first expected, fuel rail and stuff has been a bit of a PITA, but I think I have it all handled... hopefully have the car running tomorrow and see how it turns out.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

I'm just waiting for my goodies from you guys


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

waiting for spring....


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (Praks)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_I've been trying to figure out what I want to do with the R32.

Did you end up buying one?


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_Almost done with the SRI stuff... lots more to it than first expected, fuel rail and stuff has been a bit of a PITA, but I think I have it all handled... hopefully have the car running tomorrow and see how it turns out.









Which SRI did you end up going with?

_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_I'm just waiting for my goodies from you guys

























_Quote, originally posted by *Praks* »_waiting for spring....

Boo!


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_So whats everyone working on? Its been rather quiet on here lately.
















shouldn't you be working on something for me????


----------



## elicitvr6 (Jan 10, 2002)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_So whats everyone working on?

A list of things I can sell in order to be able to afford a V9 Cogged Pulley setup.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

working on better fueling/tune.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.LSinLV.* »_
shouldn't you be working on something for me????
















Check your PM big boy http://****************.com/smile/emlips.gif 

_Quote, originally posted by *elicitvr6* »_
A list of things I can sell in order to be able to afford a V9 Cogged Pulley setup.









Very nice. Whats your current setup look like?

_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_working on better fueling/tune. 

OBD2 or Lugtronics?


----------



## elicitvr6 (Jan 10, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Very nice. Whats your current setup look like?

Standard VF Stage 2 with a 2.9 intake manifold, headers, 6lb. flywheel, Southbend Stage3 Clutch and nothing else as of right now. I'm slowly making my way through this thread trying to figure out what my best options/next steps should be in my quest for high 200's at the wheels. I was originally planning on just doing the VF Stage 3 kit, but apparently they don't sell it anymore. I'm not looking to smash any records, but my little brothers 16VT is makin my jetta feel like a 1980's Fleetwood.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (elicitvr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elicitvr6* »_
Standard VF Stage 2 with a 2.9 intake manifold, headers, 6lb. flywheel, Southbend Stage3 Clutch and nothing else as of right now. I'm slowly making my way through this thread trying to figure out what my best options/next steps should be in my quest for high 200's at the wheels. I was originally planning on just doing the VF Stage 3 kit, but apparently they don't sell it anymore. I'm not looking to smash any records, but my little brothers 16VT is makin my jetta feel like a 1980's Fleetwood.









Well 300whp is possible off the V9, so your goals are definitely attainable. Your next purchase should be some cams.. 262s or 268s.


----------



## elicitvr6 (Jan 10, 2002)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Well 300whp is possible off the V9, so your goals are definitely attainable. Your next purchase should be some cams.. 262s or 268s.


That's exactly what I was thinking. The car's got just shy of 80k on it and I figured the chains would prob. be needing done soon, so since the motor would be gettin torn in to why not go ahead and do the cams, maybe a P&P too. Just wondering what else would make sense to do. Lowered compression? FMIC? My real concern is fueling. everything i've heard/read so far seems to suggest that the VF chip/tune isn't the best once you start making changes beyond just bolting on the charger. Should I upgrade the injectors? add an inline FP? best place to get a replacement chip? 
As you can see, I've got a LOT of unanswered questions and research still to do. I just want to make sure to take my time and pick all the right components the first time around so once it's done, it's done.


----------



## vanilla gorilla (Jul 7, 2004)

phil, what cams would you recommend for a stage 3 VF kit? still running a V9 btw.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (vanilla gorilla)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elicitvr6* »_
That's exactly what I was thinking. The car's got just shy of 80k on it and I figured the chains would prob. be needing done soon, so since the motor would be gettin torn in to why not go ahead and do the cams, maybe a P&P too. Just wondering what else would make sense to do. Lowered compression? FMIC? My real concern is fueling. everything i've heard/read so far seems to suggest that the VF chip/tune isn't the best once you start making changes beyond just bolting on the charger. Should I upgrade the injectors? add an inline FP? best place to get a replacement chip? 
As you can see, I've got a LOT of unanswered questions and research still to do. I just want to make sure to take my time and pick all the right components the first time around so once it's done, it's done.









Your chains still have quite a bit of life until they start making noise. I've seen VR6's with 150k running stock chains that don't make a peep. However if you're like me (a preventative maintenance freak) you'll change them before they start making noise. 
Supercharged cars don't require compression drops like a comparable turbo setup would. At no point will a V9 need a compression drop. Even the MK4s 10.3:1 will run right up to the V9s limit without detonation. 
An intercooler isn't a bad idea, but isn't required at anything around or below 300whp. Most of the V9 powered cars we've built are non intercooled. Our Corrado which was V9 powered and running an AWIC worked great, but was a pita when it came time to work on it or pull anything apart. Not to mention the components weighed a good amount and this being a track application hurts the performance more then it helps it. Therefore I wouldn't say an intercooler is required for a V9 or V1 operating below 15psi.
You're right with the fueling and software. The GIAC tune in your car will run lean up top with even the mildest cams. C2 software will run better then the GIAC with cams, but is not a solution. My suggestion seeing as your car is OBD2 is wait until Chris Tapp's (Eurodyne) ME5 stuff is available which will be sometime this winter. As far as injectors go I'd pick up some 30# 315cc or 36# 380cc injectors. Probably the 36s as if you want to upgrade down the road your fuel system will be able to support 350hp. The intank fuel pump will handle what you're going for in terms of power, so no need to swap that out.

_Quote, originally posted by *vanilla gorilla* »_phil, what cams would you recommend for a stage 3 VF kit? still running a V9 btw.

Depends when you want your powerband to start/end. 
256s are a nice mid range cam that tapers just before redline.
262s are a little more aggressive and will pull into redline.
268s are the most aggressive cams we've run to date and are definitely my favorite. They come on strong and pull really hard into redline. We recently did some work on a car with a cogged V1T-trim, big valve head and 268s and the car was everything you'd ever want in terms of a powerband. 
We've also been working with Four Seasons and are trying out some custom grinds, so we'll have to report back on those.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Which SRI did you end up going with?


I got the one from Luis on here, er juan8595 and then his fuel rail. Been wrestling with getting the fuel rail right, but I think it's all about ready to come together. Like your short of the Schimmel up there, I had to put an elbow in to redirect the FPR adapter. Do you need to o-ring those elbows? Mine didn't have one and I slapped one on before putting it in, haven't re-primed the fuel system yet so I don't know if it will leak or not, but figured I'd ask first. 
Thanks.







I have some pics somewhere, it's kinda rough looking right now with [email protected] everywhere...








I had painted the SRI but wasn't able to bake the ceramic paint and while I was on vacation, it leaked a wee tad and stripped some of the pain so I'll be redoing that after I get it all done... otherwise there it is... still have to redo the T at the FPR vacuum line so I don't have a possible leak there. (props to -THROTTLE- for reminding me to get rid of all possible leak points







)
I do have one more question, normally my lower intake mani (being MkIV) has a vacuum port on it for the air shrouded injectors, should I just run the charge pipe/TB vacuum line that went to that prior to one of the vacuum ports on the bottom side of the plenum?


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
OBD2 or Lugtronics?

I am highly considering Lugtronics. 
I fugure in the end it will really only be a couple hundred more for a totally adaptable & tunable system.
Now standalone seems like overkill for a SC, but really FI is FI. The chip tune leaves much to be desired for drivability & thats number 1 to me. I'd take 30 less HP for a perfect driving car. 
With standalone I should have to. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Standalone =$1500
OBD2 Swap = donor car or uber complete swap including a good MAF, ECU, Harness, TB, Intake, O2, C2 (turbo app) Chip that is pig rich in the middle), a 4" Maf housing, 2x couplers, Injectors + Loss of my recently polished TB & 2.9 collared mani.
Standalone means NO MORE MAF & I could realistically run whats already installed, possibly using some 36/42# er's. 
I have a bit more research to do & will try a few things to see if I can live with the current 2 chips I have, but I dont want her off hte road for another year, nor do I want to wash out another motor.


----------



## elicitvr6 (Jan 10, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Your chains still have quite a bit of life until they start making noise. I've seen VR6's with 150k running stock chains that don't make a peep. However if you're like me (a preventative maintenance freak) you'll change them before they start making noise. 
Supercharged cars don't require compression drops like a comparable turbo setup would. At no point will a V9 need a compression drop. Even the MK4s 10.3:1 will run right up to the V9s limit without detonation. 
An intercooler isn't a bad idea, but isn't required at anything around or below 300whp. Most of the V9 powered cars we've built are non intercooled. Our Corrado which was V9 powered and running an AWIC worked great, but was a pita when it came time to work on it or pull anything apart. Not to mention the components weighed a good amount and this being a track application hurts the performance more then it helps it. Therefore I wouldn't say an intercooler is required for a V9 or V1 operating below 15psi.
You're right with the fueling and software. The GIAC tune in your car will run lean up top with even the mildest cams. C2 software will run better then the GIAC with cams, but is not a solution. My suggestion seeing as your car is OBD2 is wait until Chris Tapp's (Eurodyne) ME5 stuff is available which will be sometime this winter. As far as injectors go I'd pick up some 30# 315cc or 36# 380cc injectors. Probably the 36s as if you want to upgrade down the road your fuel system will be able to support 350hp. The intank fuel pump will handle what you're going for in terms of power, so no need to swap that out.

You sir, are the man. I am indeed a "preventative maintenance freak", and that's why I was thinking to just get the chains done before any trouble starts. Plus, I want to shave the bay, so if the motor's already going to be out I figured what the hell, why not just tear into it and get it all done at the same time.
Knowing that a compression drop or an IC aren't necessary really helps because both were going to cost money that could be better spent elsewhere. It's sounding more and more like a set of cams, some new injectors, a good refresh of the motor, possibly a P&P, one of your cogged pulley setups and some new software may indeed be on the books. I'll be keeping my eyes and ears open for word that the software from eurodyne is available. I guess standalone could be an option as well, but the thought of paying for all the dynotuning time makes my head hurt.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Did you end up buying one?


Not just yet. There is a buyer for the coupe. I'm stuck waiting on that part to get rolling.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (elicitvr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_I do have one more question, normally my lower intake mani (being MkIV) has a vacuum port on it for the air shrouded injectors, should I just run the charge pipe/TB vacuum line that went to that prior to one of the vacuum ports on the bottom side of the plenum? 

I'm trying to remember how we did it last.. I know whatever could be removed was, and theres currently only 3 vacumn lines that run to the manifold. One for the FPR and one for each diverter valve. Post up a picture. 

_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_
I am highly considering Lugtronics. 
I fugure in the end it will really only be a couple hundred more for a totally adaptable & tunable system.
Now standalone seems like overkill for a SC, but really FI is FI. The chip tune leaves much to be desired for drivability & thats number 1 to me. I'd take 30 less HP for a perfect driving car. 
With standalone I should have to. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Standalone =$1500
OBD2 Swap = donor car or uber complete swap including a good MAF, ECU, Harness, TB, Intake, O2, C2 (turbo app) Chip that is pig rich in the middle), a 4" Maf housing, 2x couplers, Injectors + Loss of my recently polished TB & 2.9 collared mani.
Standalone means NO MORE MAF & I could realistically run whats already installed, possibly using some 36/42# er's. 
I have a bit more research to do & will try a few things to see if I can live with the current 2 chips I have, but I dont want her off hte road for another year, nor do I want to wash out another motor.









Yeah in your case I'd go with the standalone route. 

_Quote, originally posted by *elicitvr6* »_
You sir, are the man. I am indeed a "preventative maintenance freak", and that's why I was thinking to just get the chains done before any trouble starts. Plus, I want to shave the bay, so if the motor's already going to be out I figured what the hell, why not just tear into it and get it all done at the same time.
Knowing that a compression drop or an IC aren't necessary really helps because both were going to cost money that could be better spent elsewhere. It's sounding more and more like a set of cams, some new injectors, a good refresh of the motor, possibly a P&P, one of your cogged pulley setups and some new software may indeed be on the books. I'll be keeping my eyes and ears open for word that the software from eurodyne is available. I guess standalone could be an option as well, but the thought of paying for all the dynotuning time makes my head hurt.









I'd also think about picking up a TT downpipe or header from S2 Metalwerks.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

That port on the lower mani for the mk4 can just be plugged. You don't need that with upgraded injectors. They actually cover the vein around the injector. But for a piece of mind I tossed a cap plug on the port down by the t-stat housing.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*

Cool... as I don't have one on the new SRI, I'll just remove and plug the one on my intake. Appreciate the advice from the both of you.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
I'm trying to remember how we did it last.. I know whatever could be removed was, and theres currently only 3 vacumn lines that run to the manifold. One for the FPR and one for each diverter valve. Post up a picture. 

I have the 3, one for the brake booster and the other two I'm not going to need as I have a vacuum manifold, but as I've been removing things that need vacuum, I'll likely be pulling more out of there. But one for FPR and one for my one DV are used on the vacuum manifold. 
Thanks guys


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Have fun....


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

I was thinking vr swap on the deere !!!!


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (elicitvr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elicitvr6* »_
Knowing that a compression drop or an IC aren't necessary really helps because both were going to cost money that could be better spent elsewhere. It's sounding more and more like a set of cams, some new injectors, a good refresh of the motor, possibly a P&P, one of your cogged pulley setups and some new software may indeed be on the books. D

You may want to look into WMI if you are not considering an IC... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## mim (Mar 2, 2003)

Hi, I had a vf stage II kit v9, with obd 1 c2 chip, autotech 262 cams, and a short runner intake I would like to see more power, I was thinking to put another pulley which one do you recomend a 2.75 or a 2.5 pulley that can work on it?


----------



## vrperfection (May 26, 2009)

*Re: (mim)*

question as i talked to phil at verdict about still searching. 93 corrado slc, v1 charger, c2 chip 30lb injectors. i was running the 15 psi pully but decided to go down to 6. i put the 6 on and the car just cranks and cranks and cranks, i drove it with the 15 on and it started up everytime but stalled sometimes. the maf is good, just rewired it again to fit in the fender, have the maf at a horizontal position about 18 inches away from the inlet. i know a pully wont do this but anyone have ideas? also checked the fuses and dropped the box down, there are 2 connectors not connected to anything, one yellow and one clear do they go anywhere? thanks








also the ecu and chip are fine, friend is running identical setup in his corrado drove his ass 50 minutes and tried mine, ran fine. so idk whats left? whats a good gap for the spark plugs? the things i touched when changing was extending the maf, in which i redid again crimped wrapped. ngk plugs, dk if the gap is wrong, vacuum lines fixed a few, does the charcoal canister have anything to deal with this? 
thanks again for reading the mess


_Modified by 2pointslowhatever at 12:19 PM 1-5-2010_


----------



## elicitvr6 (Jan 10, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_I'd also think about picking up a TT downpipe or header from S2 Metalwerks.

I've already got OBX Race Headers, a TT high-flow cat and a 2.5" TT exhaust.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (elicitvr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elicitvr6* »_
I've already got OBX Race Headers, a TT high-flow cat and a 2.5" TT exhaust. 

not the same thing.....I can tell you the TT down-pipe (in my case a clone) got me 20 WHP....the header may get some power, as will a full 3" exhaust and 100 cell cat, but the down-pipe is a HUGE choke point. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## vanilla gorilla (Jul 7, 2004)

anyone make a nice DP for the MK4 VR?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.LSinLV.* »_
not the same thing.....I can tell you the TT down-pipe (in my case a clone) got me 20 WHP....the header may get some power, as will a full 3" exhaust and 100 cell cat, but the down-pipe is a HUGE choke point. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
The OBX isn't the greatest flowing header when you're comparing it to a TT dowbpipe or S2 header.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (vanilla gorilla)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vanilla gorilla* »_anyone make a nice DP for the MK4 VR?

custom or techtonics tuning.


----------



## elicitvr6 (Jan 10, 2002)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *.LSinLV.* »_
not the same thing.....I can tell you the TT down-pipe (in my case a clone) got me 20 WHP....the header may get some power, as will a full 3" exhaust and 100 cell cat, but the down-pipe is a HUGE choke point. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


Gotcha. Unfortunately, the headers are pretty new so I'm not sure I want to pull them off and replace them. The other components are already going to set me back a pretty penny so I don't think I'll be able to swing a downpipe and custom 3" exhaust at the same time. Might have to wait until next year. Although, an extra 20hp does sound nice.











_Modified by elicitvr6 at 7:12 PM 1-5-2010_


----------



## vanilla gorilla (Jul 7, 2004)

well TT has a DP for a mk4 but its only a 2" for $330.00
http://www.techtonicstuning.co....235L
Wouldnt the headers be the bottle-neck if these are only 2"
looking for a bit more info on this or experience if anyone has some.
thanks


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (elicitvr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elicitvr6* »_
I don't think I'll be able to swing a downpipe and custom 3" exhaust at the same time.

_Modified by elicitvr6 at 7:12 PM 1-5-2010_


I have a full 3" exhaust chillaxing in the the "archives", jus sayin...


_Modified by scirockin16v at 10:04 PM 1-5-2010_


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (vanilla gorilla)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vanilla gorilla* »_well TT has a DP for a mk4 but its only a 2" for $330.00
http://www.techtonicstuning.co....235L
Wouldnt the headers be the bottle-neck if these are only 2"
looking for a bit more info on this or experience if anyone has some.
thanks

but those are larger than then stock 1 1/4" primary pipes.....trust me I know a another s/c'd user who has that set up and it did gain him +20whp....


----------



## vanilla gorilla (Jul 7, 2004)

did he run a test pipe off that and 3" back? Did he have modified headers?
i totallly believe you but didnt know if it was worth it to have a custom set made.


----------



## elicitvr6 (Jan 10, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (scirockin16v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *scirockin16v* »_I have a full 3" exhaust chillaxing in the the "archives", jus sayin...

you're a bad influence, you know that right?







is it off of that dudes green big turbo MK3 Jetta that got parted out last year?


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (elicitvr6)*

nope nope Dustin had an off the shelf magnaflow IIRC
this convo taken to PM's


----------



## pressplay (Jun 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (scirockin16v)*

Hey guys
When I got my VF stage 2 installed last summer, it was recommended to install a catch can as well. Lately I am noticing water are caught up in the catch can. should I be concern or is this normal? BTW it just started to happen a few weeks back. Could it be something to do with the cold weather?
thanks


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (pressplay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pressplay* »_Hey guys
When I got my VF stage 2 installed last summer, it was recommended to install a catch can as well. Lately I am noticing water are caught up in the catch can. should I be concern or is this normal? BTW it just started to happen a few weeks back. Could it be something to do with the cold weather?
thanks


Thats a good thing. Better to get the water in the catch can than your engine. Its just condensed water vapor from the cold. No worries. Drain the can and move along.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (pressplay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pressplay* »_Hey guys
When I got my VF stage 2 installed last summer, it was recommended to install a catch can as well. Lately I am noticing water are caught up in the catch can. should I be concern or is this normal? BTW it just started to happen a few weeks back. Could it be something to do with the cold weather?
thanks

cold weather related, and no it's normal, nothing to be worried about.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (.LSinLV.)*

i don't suppose anyone might have a single injector from the VF Stage 2 kit? Or know exactly what injector those are so I can try to find one? The plug part on one of mine cracked... no $ to get all new ones, so a single replacement would be sweet.


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (dasGolf01)*

Risking a flame here, but did you try VF, and if you did what did they say? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (groupracer)*

No flames necessary, I figured I'd try here first as after doing the SRI and fuel rail and what not, I'm quite low on funds, so I figured I'd go for one used perhaps before hitting VF up. I figured also on emailing them tomorrow, but usually their prices for replacement parts is somewhat elevated. thanks, though.


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (dasGolf01)*

I can get you a brand new injector shipped to you for $100. There the same injector as the vf kit. I had mine tested a few months back and then tracked down where to get them because I refuse to buy from vf anymore. Vf asks $150 an injector. Let me know


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (flybye1)*

What does the inj. look like? I know the stage 1,2, and 3 kits on MK3's and Corrado's used Bosch 30# red tops w/ the #'s ground off. Those are in the classifieds all the time cheap. 
Just as an example, I'm selling a set of 6 right now for $150. $150 for one inj. is a joke, but it doesn't surprise me coming from VF. Pay more for less should be their motto http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_Pay more for less should be their motto http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 


Ain't that the truth!


----------



## elicitvr6 (Jan 10, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_Pay more for less should be their motto http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 

I understand the need for markup/profit, but there prices on things always seemed just out of control. I was having issues when I first upgraded to the stage 2 kit, where I was going through belts on a near weekly basis. They were $90/piece from VF. Finally I got fed up and took my near dead belt off, cut it in half and started doing some research online. Found the company that makes the belts, contacted them and turned out they had a distributor less than a mile from my house that had the belts in stock at $30/piece. SCORE! I could understand a 30-40% markup in price maybe, but 200%?


----------



## farfromugen (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (elicitvr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elicitvr6* »_
I understand the need for markup/profit, but there prices on things always seemed just out of control. I was having issues when I first upgraded to the stage 2 kit, where I was going through belts on a near weekly basis. They were $90/piece from VF. Finally I got fed up and took my near dead belt off, cut it in half and started doing some research online. Found the company that makes the belts, contacted them and turned out they had a distributor less than a mile from my house that had the belts in stock at $30/piece. SCORE! I could understand a 30-40% markup in price maybe, but 200%?









You should share that info on here








I've also had them straight up bold face lie to me about their "proprietary" belts. They told me they sell a 7 rib single sided belt for their no A/C kit (stage 2). I confirmed this with him several times before making the order. He claimed they imported special "metric" European 8 rib belts, shaved a rib, and sold them for $75, but he would give me a deal at $50...they sent me a 6 rib Goodyear Gatorback belt available at my local Autozone for $22. That was the last I dealt with VF. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## elicitvr6 (Jan 10, 2002)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *farfromugen* »_You should share that info on here









I will indeed do that. I purchased 3 that last time mine shredded (just in case). Thankfully we were able to figure out what was causing the belts to shred and I haven't had any issues since. I've got a couple still in the factory packaging so I'll get the info this weekend and post it up in here.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (flybye1)*

Same as the Stage 2 injectors? Just being sure... as I know they're different for the stages... I'll PM you too as I'm a little fried this morning and thinking of things as I'm typing.
Car ran for the first time in 5 weeks this morning (away for 3 for vacation







), chugging on 5 cylinders a little, just rough sounding... and then the fuel rail squirted fuel so I missed something somewhere, take it apart and reseal everything.








Anyone have a good recommendation for thread sealant that is fuel resistant?


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (slc92)*

PM'd yah. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

i read here earlyier that stage 2 inj are 315cc...my friend said that 315cc are in audi s2...could it be true??
p.s. still waiting for spring


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (Praks)*

Just got info back from VF, 100$ per injector. They're 330cc or roughly 30# and made by Pierce for Bosch, not the RC Saturated that they look like.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

they actually told you?..and i had to dish out 150 for one when i needed it


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (mk4vrjtta)*

Yeah... Sean was great. I emailed and said I had a problem with one and likely needed to replace it, how much would it be. Then I mentioned that mine looked exactly like the RC Engineering injector but when I bought it, they were stated to have been made by Bosch and he explained it to me... pretty pleased with it... 100.00 is much more reasonable. We shall see, though..


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

i wonder about compression in my vr when i charge it with stage 2 v9...here in europe we have more octane fuel...what u sugesst?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (Praks)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Praks* »_i wonder about compression in my vr when i charge it with stage 2 v9...here in europe we have more octane fuel...what u sugesst?

If you are not above 12psi I wouldn't worry about it. That go go juice over in euro is like our race gas.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (Praks)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Praks* »_i wonder about compression in my vr when i charge it with stage 2 v9...here in europe we have more octane fuel...what u sugesst?

You'll be fine. Running the V9 at its limit doesn't even require a drop in compression.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: ([email protected])*

As it's so damn cold out, I took the fuel rail and all the fittings off and brought them inside, cleaned them, etc then applied the Permatex #3 Aviation gasket stuff that is supposed to be fuel resistant. How long should I let it cure inside before putting it back on the car and is it better to have room temp, more than room temp, less? Just making sure I have all my ducks in a row before I put it back on the car, don't want to redo more than I already have..


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_As it's so damn cold out, I took the fuel rail and all the fittings off and brought them inside, cleaned them, etc then applied the Permatex #3 Aviation gasket stuff that is supposed to be fuel resistant. How long should I let it cure inside before putting it back on the car and is it better to have room temp, more than room temp, less? Just making sure I have all my ducks in a row before I put it back on the car, don't want to redo more than I already have..









Is the stuff you bought brown?
Let it sit until the sealant is starting to cure and then assemble.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*

Yeah, that's the stuff. I followed the directions, applied it, let it sit a few minutes, put the parts together, then let the whole fuel rail/adapter/fittings sit overnight. Just not sure how long I should let it cure. I put a tiny bit on the outside of a fitting so I could feel it as it cured and that is still kinda tacky, not sure if it will always be tacky or cure further, etc. Just trying to make sure I don't jump the gun at all never having used this stuff before.


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

I usually reassemble it once its tacky.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (MeCarTay)*

Cool, thanks for the advice. As I'd not used this particular stuff, didn't want to make an assumption, then be squirting fuel all over thinking I was all bad with my new fuel rail stuff.. hehehe


----------



## vrperfection (May 26, 2009)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

i love ****ty plug wires, fried my dizzy and created a horrible misfire. oh lord. thank god for the vortex for a new dizzy


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: ([email protected])*

If someone who has done an SRI on a MkIV SC could PM me and let me pick their brain a bit. 
Got the fuel situation good, no more fitting leaks. The rail leaks at the top, but that's due to me trying to not use the little sleeves for the injectors and I just have to put that all back together. 
It fired up the first try, but now it's not starting and it's acting like it did with a prior bad vacuum leak. I pulled the SAI, combi valve and such, do I have to pull the Evap stuff as well when I do that? Will that create a big vacuum leak? 
I also have to check the fittings on the bottom of the manifold on the off chance one came loose, but any tips, tricks, hints, etc would be great...


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_If someone who has done an SRI on a MkIV SC could PM me and let me pick their brain a bit. 
Got the fuel situation good, no more fitting leaks. The rail leaks at the top, but that's due to me trying to not use the little sleeves for the injectors and I just have to put that all back together. 
It fired up the first try, but now it's not starting and it's acting like it did with a prior bad vacuum leak. I pulled the SAI, combi valve and such, do I have to pull the Evap stuff as well when I do that? Will that create a big vacuum leak? 
I also have to check the fittings on the bottom of the manifold on the off chance one came loose, but any tips, tricks, hints, etc would be great...










SENT!!


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (littlenr)*

Thanks! You deserve a


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

I do what I can. No worries.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

dasgolf.....you can use a MKIII Vr6 intake manifold gasket with most SRI's on a MKIV....the head on the AAA and AFP are very much similar, with pretty much only the timing chains be different, that and SAI. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

Cool, I have a New South Phenolic Spacer as the gasket right now. Nate suggested checking on the SAI plug I have in, make sure it isn't leaking as that will make it bad... plus I need to figure out the fuel rail/injectors better since I'm using the short mkIV injectors from the VF kit and the lower is obviously MkIII, it all doesn't fit perfectly so my injector cups up top are leaking here and there depending on how I move the rail.... alas.. hehe unless someone has a set of 6 mkIII 330cc they want to trade for mine or sell me real cheap.







Hehehe


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_Cool, I have a New South Phenolic Spacer as the gasket right now. Nate suggested checking on the SAI plug I have in, make sure it isn't leaking as that will make it bad... plus I need to figure out the fuel rail/injectors better since I'm using the short mkIV injectors from the VF kit and the lower is obviously MkIII, it all doesn't fit perfectly so my injector cups up top are leaking here and there depending on how I move the rail.... alas.. hehe unless someone has a set of 6 mkIII 330cc they want to trade for mine or sell me real cheap.







Hehehe


CTS turbo sells injectors pretty cheap. You could pick up mkIII style 30# injectors. Red tops I think. The green tops are 42#. The all white ones are 36#, this is what I'm using currently.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (littlenr)*

Heheheh... was just looking at some...


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

If anyone is interested....
My Coupe F.S.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (littlenr)*

Picked up a set just now, hopefully have before the weekend so all will be well in that part. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_If anyone is interested....
My Coupe F.S.  









wait....your selliing it???


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (.LSinLV.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.LSinLV.* »_








wait....your selliing it??? 

Yes its for sale. I have something else in mind.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_
Yes its for sale. I have something else in mind.

R32, B6/B7 S4... you know you want to


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
You'll be fine. Running the V9 at its limit doesn't even require a drop in compression.

but still im reading info about compression in vr...and im woried...so many info that with boost above 7.2519 psi there will be detonation...also i read somewhere on bimmerforums about 3 motors in one car blown because of giac soft with s/c without drop in compress...
my engine is in perfect condition and i dont wont to lose it....
if u can please, write me some advice what should i do... 
because my mind is ready to blow with all this conflict info


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (Praks)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Praks* »_
but still im reading info about compression in vr...and im woried...so many info that with boost above 7.2519 psi there will be detonation...also i read somewhere on bimmerforums about 3 motors in one car blown because of giac soft with s/c without drop in compress...
my engine is in perfect condition and i dont wont to lose it....
if u can please, write me some advice what should i do... 
because my mind is ready to blow with all this conflict info



You will be fine. As long as you run a good software/ fuel set up you will be fine. The v9 does not flow enough air to give fueling issues. Heck I ran stock ecu for a month before I did the software. On that I was running a non intercooled v9 set up, with upgraded injectors and no issues at all. Now mind you I changed all that in time. But you will be ok with stock compression and the right fueling.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (littlenr)*

x3
& no conflicts on this forum


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EL DRIFTO* »_x3
& no conflicts on this forum

X4 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
R32, B6/B7 S4... you know you want to









Will do that once the coupe is gone!


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (Praks)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Praks* »_
but still im reading info about compression in vr...and im woried...so many info that with boost above 7.2519 psi there will be detonation...also i read somewhere on bimmerforums about 3 motors in one car blown because of giac soft with s/c without drop in compress...
my engine is in perfect condition and i dont wont to lose it....
if u can please, write me some advice what should i do... 
because my mind is ready to blow with all this conflict info


We've built many cars with V9 chargers and the only time we ran into fueling issues was with GIAC tunes and engines with cams. If you are running cams I'd suggest getting a custom tune, but you definitely don't need to drop compression.


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

wow am i late getting to this thread. 
whats up guys, im River. im from oklahoma, and ive got a 98 ginster gti. have had the car about 18 months now, about 7 of those months have been s/cd. 
Specs:
Vortech V9 charger
customer piping that i got from obd.one. on here
currently running the 6psi pulley, but have 12psi pulley on the way
262 cams
2.5" full cat-back with one res and borla muffler
2.9l clone mani
30lb injectors
c2 30lb tune
custom made 4" maf housing
car runs like a dream, need to get the maf further from the charger cuz i have stalling issues when coming to a stop, and form what i have read on here that is my problem is the air turbulence.
however i do have some questions. i understand that belt tension should be 150lbs, however i do not now how to measure that. is there a tool to measure that amount of tension with? would like to know cuz right now the belt is tightened with the ol' muscle tight system, which works well, havent had belt slip but the belt is really old and the weather has been extremely cold and now starting to get some pretty crazy slip on high or quick revs even after the engine is warm. so when the new pulley gets here i plan to replace the belt, but would like to know a more "proper" way to tension the pulley. any info?
one more thing. sorry for the novel guys haha. my v9 has been rebuilt, and i know a lot of guys on here say that v9 will not handle 12psi cuz of weak bearings, but if the v9 was rebuilt wiitht he better bearings, and i rarely take the car to full redline, usually only 6k, would it be able to handle the boost and actually last?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*

You will be ok with the rebuild.


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

*Re: (littlenr)*

thats what i was thinking, just wanted to ask. anyone got some info on how to actually read the proper tension on the belt?
btw, awesome thread guys. one of the most informative threads ive ever read with no bashing because people asked the same questions.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*

hey river, what's up? post some pics of those pipes!


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

*Re: (littlenr)*

thats what i was thinking, just wanted to ask. anyone got some info on how to actually read the proper tension on the belt?
btw, awesome thread guys. one of the most informative threads ive ever read with no bashing because people asked the same questions.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*

















something i need to fix haha








and a pic of the beast!








edit pic


_Modified by black 86 rocco at 10:37 AM 1-12-2010_


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

I'd look at getting a low profile filter element. Get that up above the lower valance.


----------



## pressplay (Jun 25, 2008)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *black 86 rocco* »_thats what i was thinking, just wanted to ask. anyone got some info on how to actually read the proper tension on the belt?
btw, awesome thread guys. one of the most informative threads ive ever read with no bashing because people asked the same questions.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


try this. http://www.automotivetoolsonli....html


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

ive been looking at trying to get a smaller filter, just no one locally has one, gotta get one online probably. thats, and its such a tight fit that it has to be as skinny as the one thats in there, but about 3 inches shorter. i lost one already because of how low it was haha


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *black 86 rocco* »_ive been looking at trying to get a smaller filter, just no one locally has one, gotta get one online probably. thats, and its such a tight fit that it has to be as skinny as the one thats in there, but about 3 inches shorter. i lost one already because of how low it was haha









K&N from autozone!


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

link no worky for some reason


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

thats where my current K&N if from haha that was the smallest one they had that would fit. im gonna try to order one on ebay or something. does anyone know the size of the filter that comes with the vf kit?
also for the tool to check belt tension, is this it? http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6673...198J0


----------



## pressplay (Jun 25, 2008)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *black 86 rocco* »_thats where my current K&N if from haha that was the smallest one they had that would fit. im gonna try to order one on ebay or something. does anyone know the size of the filter that comes with the vf kit?
also for the tool to check belt tension, is this it? http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6673...198J0

yeah, the OTC tensioner is the one I use. so far so good. Pricey but I think it's worth it. search around you might find it cheaper then amazon.


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

awwesome, my best friend works for a local parts store that ought to have one. usually they'll let me have them either really cheap or just use it for the day







thanks. 
random question, but anyone using a forge DV, can they actually hear the DV when it releases or is the whine of the charger to much to be able to hear it?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *black 86 rocco* »_thats where my current K&N if from haha that was the smallest one they had that would fit. im gonna try to order one on ebay or something. does anyone know the size of the filter that comes with the vf kit?

this is the one a lot of people are using with the 4" MAF housing:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KNN-RU-2510/


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

thanks for the link, definitely gonna have to order one of those!


----------



## mim (Mar 2, 2003)

Hi, guys were can I find a set of bearings to put in my v9 in order to run a 12 psi pulley, my charger had around 8k. thanks.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (mim)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mim* »_Hi, guys were can I find a set of bearings to put in my v9 in order to run a 12 psi pulley, my charger had around 8k. thanks.

http://www.superchargerrebuild.com/?page_id=6


----------



## mim (Mar 2, 2003)

thanks for the info phil.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (mim)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mim* »_Hi, guys were can I find a set of bearings to put in my v9 in order to run a 12 psi pulley, my charger had around 8k. thanks.

FYI - from all of the info I have (and I am following it with my charger rebuild now), do not go any higher than ABEC 7's, as the 9's are ceramic and although will allow a greater max rpm, are not suitable for the temperature cycling that the charger will go through...and thus shorten their useful life.
also, a couple of people here as well as on the old VF forums did use 7's in their V9's, but still had failures in +12 psi boost applications.....the V9 is just not made to produce high boost and high rpm's.


----------



## slvr bullet (Aug 23, 2005)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

What bearings come in a v9 charger? tt downpipes give 20 whp on 98vr6 with a charger, just making sure I read that right?


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (slvr bullet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slvr bullet* »_What bearings come in a v9 charger? tt downpipes give 20 whp on 98vr6 with a charger, just making sure I read that right? 

I would think that the charger has either 3's or 5's, but not sure....never rebuilt a V9.
yes the TT downpipe (or similar custom sized) and a 100 cell cat should give you about 20whp.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (slvr bullet)*

V9's come with ABEC-7's, at least mine did.


----------



## slvr bullet (Aug 23, 2005)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

I have the stock downpipe and no cat. So if I replaced my down pipe with the tt pipe will I see a good gain or is most of the gain comin from the cat you described. I'm tryin to say I would gain about 20 whp if I still had a stock cat and what condition it's in. So if I add the down pipe to my set up 2.5 autotech system with testpipe. Think I'll get a good bump in power. I'm just thinkin maybe 15whp came from the cat maybe just wondering thinkin about gettin the down pipe and trying to port the manifolds.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (slvr bullet)*

what I can tell you is that not all mods are cumulative, and any betterment would/will be affected by too many factors (engine condition, charger, exhaust,head-work, etc).
what I can tell you, is that many S/C'd cars have seen 20whp from just that specific mod (larger primaries on the down-pipe), some have seen more (24V motors) some less.....it's a known pinch-point in the exhaust, and changing it will only help/allow you to get more power, and run cooler (I saw EGT's drop +20F).
you can't waste $ on this mod, as it will provide an increase. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## slvr bullet (Aug 23, 2005)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

Thanks good info


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (slvr bullet)*

got a quick question:
My SRI is made for an OBD1 TB, which is what I have. Since my ISV is obviously deleted, I just have my throttle cable pulled to keep the plate open inside the TB to allow air to bypass to hold idle.
If I were to convert to an OBD2 TB (which had the idle air motor inside) would it be compatible with my stand alone or would I be in the same position I'm in now? Is the harness connector for the OBD1 and OBD2 TB the same or different?
I found this adapter plate and have been contemplating getting it to swap over to an OBD2 TB, but only if it will help me.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4699315


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

does anyone know, will the 8-rib pulleys work fine on our cars?


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *black 86 rocco* »_does anyone know, will the 8-rib pulleys work fine on our cars?

you want to run an 8 rib pulley on the charger, but the rest are 6 rib....so, no.
you'd need to convert all pulleys to 8 rib for that to work


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

I ran a 2.75" Vortech 8 rib pulley on mine with no problems whatsoever. belt alignment was perfect.
The only reason I'm not running it anymore is due to the fact that I now have the VF idler which mounts around the alternator bracket so there is not enough clearance to run a wider pulley.
Also, the other pulleys are 7 rib, not 6.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

i used an 8 rib pulley & had 1 machined off to clear the fuel rail
then i used an 8 rib belt with 1 sliced off to get 7 ribs on everything


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

Here's a pic of my old setup with the Vortech 8 rib pulley and a 7 rib belt:








worked great http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by obdONE at 12:31 PM 2-10-2010_


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

You can use the 8 rib charger pully. Buy the correct sized 8 rib belt & cut off 1 rib(easy) & then you'll be ok w/ 7 ribs on all http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

ok i figured that would be fine since its only one rib more than the other pulleys. fyi, c2motorsports is out of their supercharger pulleys and got an email from chris saying there is not a date when they will be getting more in, so its a possibilty they wont carry them any longer. 
so b/c of that im still in the market for a smaller pulley. since im running a v-9, i know i really want 12psi, i dont redline the car hardly ever, so im not worried about maxing it out, however from the research ive done, i cant find the 2.5" pulley that is supposedly the 12psi for the v-9, all i can find is a 2.65". does anyone know what psi that would be? is it 10psi?


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*

wow....I guess I'll sut up now.....









I didn't realize that running the larger pulley with smaller pulley's actually worked.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## mim (Mar 2, 2003)

Hey, black 86 rocco where do you find that 2.65 pulley, and hopefully it's make 10 psi I also running a v9 and it would be great if it mades the 10 psi.?


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*

Im using this low profile filter to resolve the same problem 








Hope this help


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (Bo0sted_Rafi)*

Yeah, the HKS filters are great, but they're about $150 a pop. too rich for my blood. K&N does just great.


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

I know, jeje I'm using it because I work in a Store of Japanese engines and jdm parts and engines like 2jz, 13b and rb2* came with those filters and only I bought the element for 29$. That's the benefit!!


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

ok so i just picked up a forge spltr hybrid dv, the one that is both a DV and a BOV, has anyone ever had any experience with this dv on their supercahrged vr? or maybe someone thats just using a bov. im really not sure how to tell if the dv is functioning properly or that i have it installed correctly. anyone throw out some tips maybe?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (Bo0sted_Rafi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bo0sted_Rafi* »_*I bought the element for 29$*

uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuh can I have one too??? Please???


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

^ TIP-
use a DV, the BOV releases metered air. Your A/F will be off (rich).
*on the other hand this may be good the the lean conditioned of a modded VF tune.


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...t_962
how I said, the engines came with the filter housing and the old element and I only needed to buy the replacement. We got like 3-5 filters housing in the store but some peoples says that filter isn't good but Im very satisfied


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (Bo0sted_Rafi)*

On top of all this talk of filters, I was reading somewhere about air straighteners... do they make them for our cars? Are they necessary? Or helpful even... etc... anyone know?


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_On top of all this talk of filters, I was reading somewhere about air straighteners... do they make them for our cars? Are they necessary? Or helpful even... etc... anyone know? 

???why whould you need to straighten out air entering the charger??? it's force of suction would be greater than any flow straightener, and would negate a value it might bring.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_On top of all this talk of filters, I was reading somewhere about air straighteners... do they make them for our cars? Are they necessary? Or helpful even... etc... anyone know? 


They work with the 4" mafs. They help eliminate the swirling around the maf. Some guys use these to make the cars more streetable. I personally haven't needed one.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

looks like you posted the wrong answer @ 422
& 4 corrections came in <10 minutes


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

*Re: (Bo0sted_Rafi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bo0sted_Rafi* »_Im using this low profile filter to resolve the same problem 








Hope this help


I ended up just cutting down the plastic pipe from VF with a band saw up to the next ridge.


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: (2PointGoGoGo)*

lets talk V9 idler setups, single or dual 
looking to get more belt wrap to work towards eliminating belt slippage, I'd love a Verdict cogged setup, but when i looked into it, they hadn't done a cgged setup on a mk2, that and I'm not ready to put up that kind of money, yet.
so curious what alternatives to the VF idler are out there, I suspect many of you have the VF unit, I'm curious to see what some of the DIY crowd has concocted in anything.
p.s. great thread so far long time lurker here.... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*









This is the C2 dual idler bracket-
That bolts to the alternator bracket and goes in-line of the belt. But on cars with V9 this wont work. FYI you can make something similar to work.


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

hey guys, so i got my new forge splitter hybrid dv installed, properly haha had the vacuum hose hooked up wrong, wasnt even working the way i had it. anyways, at idle the atmospheric portion of the dv is blowing constant air which is supposed to happen as far as i know, if i blip the throttle itll stop and then release, however if i try to hold the throttle the air will just rush out faster, now granted this is just me manually opening the throttle. will the valve only close when the car is under load? aka when im actually driving? haha


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *black 86 rocco* »_hey guys, so i got my new forge splitter hybrid dv installed, properly haha had the vacuum hose hooked up wrong, wasnt even working the way i had it. anyways, at idle the atmospheric portion of the dv is blowing constant air which is supposed to happen as far as i know, if i blip the throttle itll stop and then release, however if i try to hold the throttle the air will just rush out faster, now granted this is just me manually opening the throttle. will the valve only close when the car is under load? aka when im actually driving? haha

It will only close as long as there is positive pressure in the system. Once the motor goes vacuum it will open.


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

that makes sense. boost gauge only reads when im driving the car, not sitting in the driveway.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*

It will read at redline when you are in the driveway.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (scirockin16v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *scirockin16v* »_lets talk V9 idler setups, single or dual 
looking to get more belt wrap to work towards eliminating belt slippage, I'd love a Verdict cogged setup, but when i looked into it, they hadn't done a cgged setup on a mk2, that and I'm not ready to put up that kind of money, yet.
so curious what alternatives to the VF idler are out there, I suspect many of you have the VF unit, I'm curious to see what some of the DIY crowd has concocted in anything.
p.s. great thread so far long time lurker here.... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

i would also like to see some "custom" ones. i got really lucky and bought a single idler for really cheap on here, but am still interested in seeing some other ones. btw..it works very good http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (scirockin16v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *scirockin16v* »_lets talk V9 idler setups, single or dual 
looking to get more belt wrap to work towards eliminating belt slippage, I'd love a Verdict cogged setup, but when i looked into it, they hadn't done a cgged setup on a mk2, that and I'm not ready to put up that kind of money, yet.
so curious what alternatives to the VF idler are out there, I suspect many of you have the VF unit, I'm curious to see what some of the DIY crowd has concocted in anything.
p.s. great thread so far long time lurker here.... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


That V9 should make your MK2 be a little more lively http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_

That V9 should make your MK2 be a little more lively http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I hope so, finally getting to install it, shooting for close to 300 whp, if not, no big deal, I'd like to enjoy this car and not let it sit in the shop waiting for parts/time/money in the name of chasing horsepower....


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (scirockin16v)*

300whp on a V9 is on the very ragged edge....not reliable ...at least not long term. I think you could so 280whp no problem


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.LSinLV.* »_300whp on a V9 is on the very ragged edge....not reliable ...at least not long term. I think you could so 280whp no problem


Indeed it is, why I'm "shooting" for 300 WHP, all components should be able to make 300WHP together if it gets to 280, I'd be happy with that too. 
When it comes down to it, when you select your charger, software, injectors and intake plumbing, fuleing etc.. It is, in my mind better to overshoot/overbuild or overbuy, then it will become easier to have some headroom so to say left in the capabilities of the system. 
Same principles apply to assembling a home theater or audio system, or even a computer system, even a set of tools, better to have and not need than need and not have.
as far as reliablility goes, if I were mega concerned about it I wouldnt be supercharging or adding any forced induction, but if I'm running so close to the "ragged edge" where I'll cringe every time I put my foot into it, that wont be any fun either. overall I'm after a nice usable amount of streetable power, that wont break the bank or get me arrested. although I know many that have come close to arrest in NA cars


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

does anyone know if all of vortech's supercharger pulleys are interchangable? as long as they are centrifugal, wouldnt they all interchange?


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *black 86 rocco* »_does anyone know if all of vortech's supercharger pulleys are interchangable? as long as they are centrifugal, wouldnt they all interchange?

I know that V1/V2 and V9 pulleys are interchangable.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (scirockin16v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *scirockin16v* »_

Indeed it is, why I'm "shooting" for 300 WHP, all components should be able to make 300WHP together if it gets to 280, I'd be happy with that too. 
When it comes down to it, when *you select your charger*, software, injectors and intake plumbing, fuleing etc.. It is, in my mind better to overshoot/overbuild or overbuy, then it will become easier to have some headroom so to say left in the capabilities of the system. 
Same principles apply to assembling a home theater or audio system, or even a computer system, even a set of tools, better to have and not need than need and not have.
as far as reliablility goes, if I were mega concerned about it I wouldnt be supercharging or adding any forced induction, but if I'm running so close to the "ragged edge" where I'll cringe every time I put my foot into it, that wont be any fun either. overall I'm after a nice usable amount of streetable power, that wont break the bank or get me arrested. although I know many that have come close to arrest in NA cars









and that is the weak link in your design...the V9 is NOT good at high rpm's or boost over 12psi....if you want 300whp, then get a V1/V2


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

The V9 will make 300whp on 12psi with cams and like Larry said its not a very stout charger compared to the V1/V2. However it will make that power reliably. We ran that particular configuration for over 20k miles, with the only modification done to the blower itself being abec9 ceramics. At that level the blower is being over spun if you're referring to Vortech's specs. The V1, V2 or V3 is really the better choice even if you're not "pushing the limits", but if you've already got a V9 and have aspirations for 300whp or less, then no need to upgrade to the larger frame blowers.


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.LSinLV.* »_
and that is the weak link in your design...the V9 is NOT good at high rpm's or boost over 12psi....if you want 300whp, then get a V1/V2

indeed, I am aware of the inherent shortcomings in the smaller charger head of the V9, alas it was a bit of an impulse buy, whatever power it makes I'll be happy with it, I've always been a fan of linear power delivery and under the curve grunt made with a supercharger, even if it is a less than optimum performer it will still make me smile.... 
As Phil stated, the V9 *is* capable of 300 whp with the right cams and other supporting mods. 
As far as my setup is concerned I have 260/264 TT camshafts already installed in the car, as well as port matched exhaust manifolds/intake manifolds as well as a new south phenolic spacer, the intake manifold is stock for now but that will change as I'm after a full flow manifold. A 2.5" TT stainless/catless exhaust is under the car as we speak but I have a full 3" with cat delete also in my parts stash. The coil pack is stock at the moment but I have waiting in reserve a modified bracket that will sport 40000 volt MSD or accel coils, a stock mk2 fuel delivery system, may not support the fueling I'll need with my 36 lb/hr injectors but I have a Bosch 044 pump at my disposal as well (the jury is still out on weather the pump I have will over-scavenge the stock mk2 fuel pump) The car is running OBD II as of last season and programming to support boost is YTBD. 
We"ll see how it all goes down but I'm confident I'll have lots of fun in the process, that is what modifying any car is all about isn't it? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

*Re: (scirockin16v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *scirockin16v* »_
, I've always been a fan of linear power delivery and under the curve grunt made with a supercharger,

you need to look in to superchargers more, as you aren't going to get either of those items with the supercharger you've bought.


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: (TBT-Syncro)*

I could be wrong but don't the pullys have diffrent off sets for diffrent car?


----------



## mk3pete (Jan 16, 2010)

this maybe already covered
but how does the 3.94 r&p go with the vf charger kit?
would it be too short?


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (mk3pete)*

11.5 psi on my V9 lasted for ~1500 miles before the bearings went so bad that the impeller was hitting the housing of the charger. I was running ALOT of belt tension. 150 ft-lbs as VF recommends and measured w/ a gauge.
I would run stock belt tension. 
Centrifugal SC's:
Linear power= Yes
Grunt=Absolutely not. It's like a really big cam. Fun from 5-7k, but yawn anywhere below that.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (slc92)*

Happy day as the car finally runs and doesn't leak... thanks to all the folks who shot me advice and help and such. Will get a pic of the current setup when it isn't pouring down rain outside, which of course more or less muted the new initial drive. Having the SRI on a MkIV and then removing all the assorted SAI, evap, etc stuff really changed the sound of the engine and car overall and so far, feels different in the little bit of driving.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (mk3pete)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk3pete* »_this maybe already covered
but how does the 3.94 r&p go with the vf charger kit?
would it be too short?

3.94 is an awesome ratio and really livens up the car. If you do a lot of highway driving though, I'd recommend a taller 5th.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Does anyone have a recommendation for flexible 1.5" radiator hose? My current piece to get around the new boost tube is frankensteined to he11 and is spitting coolant a bit, so I figure some flexible would hopefully work. 
Also, it's running "like" it has a vacuum leak, though I'm getting boost, but I haven't been able to do the adaptation since I got running again and removed the SAI, evap and such, will that give me a somewhat rough idle? 
thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_Does anyone have a recommendation for flexible 1.5" radiator hose? My current piece to get around the new boost tube is frankensteined to he11 and is spitting coolant a bit, so I figure some flexible would hopefully work. 
Also, it's running "like" it has a vacuum leak, though I'm getting boost, but I haven't been able to do the adaptation since I got running again and removed the SAI, evap and such, will that give me a somewhat rough idle? 
thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


The lumpiness is coming from the car not being turned with the sai and evap removed. Get the software changed up a bit and that will take the lumps out of the way the car is running.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (littlenr)*

Gotcha, I'll just have to deal with that for a bit until I can get new software/etc. Does anyone other than C2 do that? Can it be done to your "current" software? I have nothing against the C2, but I don't have a grand for the fueling kits recommended...


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Found an interesting bit of info. Lysholm and Vortech team up!! 
Vortech


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_Found an interesting bit of info. Lysholm and Vortech team up!! 
Vortech 

Interesting


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Interesting









Sounds like you boys need to start making supercharger kits for the v8 boys. (Hint Hint...)

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_
Sounds like you boys need to start making supercharger kits for the v8 boys. (Hint Hint...)

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Phil knows what I'm talking about.... Umm....


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_Phil knows what I'm talking about.... Umm....









We came awfully close in '08 to producing a rear mount turbo setup. Unfortunately it was deemed too complex and next to impossible to replicate. However the supercharger setup is always an option and something we'd be more interested in doing. Not only for the ease of installation, but because most of the work we do is supercharger orientated. 
Aside from the VR6 we do a good amount of work with the 4.2 and it really is an amazing engine. Definitely can benefit from boost, but even with a few bolt-ons is a blast to drive. Like I mentioned to you before, you won't regret owning one, just be prepared for 18-20mpg. 








H2O can't come soon enough!


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

The mpg isn't an issue. I'm close to 20mpg now with the coupe. Stretches to 23 on the highway.


----------



## vanilla gorilla (Jul 7, 2004)

hey Nate, didnt you live down in FL for a bit?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (vanilla gorilla)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vanilla gorilla* »_hey Nate, didnt you live down in FL for a bit?

That would have been Chris. He was the owner right before me. I bought the car from him in 2007. At that point I started making it my own. Lots and lots of work into it.


----------



## vanilla gorilla (Jul 7, 2004)

cool man...good to see this car making it around.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Buy the car and you wont be disappointed!! Link is in my sig.


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

got a quick update guys. my 2.65" 8-rib pulley came in that i bought off one of the ebay stores. the pulley fits, and works great, and on my v-9 i think im seeing 8psi of boost at redline, huge difference over my stock 3.25"! still not quite where i want to be, but definitely fun for now! builds boost better, more responsive, and a lot of fun. i also had to put a new belt on, the old one had a rub completely chewed off, so now wonder i was having so much belt slip. however, i got a new one, but i had to use a 55" in order for it to tension! does that sound normal? i thought it was supposed to be something like a 61" belt to fit, and mine is 55". i have 98gti, a/c is still there, no idler pulley.


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

just thought of something else as well. ive got a friend thats into rx-7's and he recommended possibly going with a APEX SAFC to be able to fine tune my a/f ratio. has anyone had any experience with them to know if this would be a decent option to do for better power and more reliability? and also, those of you guys who are running water/meth, how much of a difference are you guys seeing with it?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Our cars (VWs) don't react to well to SAFCs. You could try it, but they are close to 200 bucks new. You could spend that much with out one and be set.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*

i ran one for a couple of years, still have it sitting in my garage. i was able to tune out the fuel over 4000rpm, but nothing under it. my OLD c2 file was fine until abouty 3800rpm, then went completely rich. i used to run 12.8-12.9's, installed the afc, and was able to pull a few 12.5-12.6's on a regular basis.
it does work, its just a matter of making things work with your setup.
its for sale if anyones interested, just make me an offer.


----------



## 2Pirate (Aug 8, 2008)

Wow - Just found this thread - Wish I would of found it when I needed some help with mine Although no longer SC I thought I would share this pic from last year


----------



## mathias_rotrex (Oct 19, 2009)

Here in europe it`s 2 rotrex vr6 12v that I know about. One in the u.k, c30-94 rotrex,
262 cams and some other goodies.
I think it was 402 crank hp with 18psi boost.
Belive it was with stock exhuast manifold and tiny 2,5 exhuast system.
The other one that I know about is my own car. I running also a c30-94 rotrex sc, but i running more boost, 20-21psi.
The strange is that`s no one in the usa that running a rotrex on their vr6.
Why is that?


----------



## [email protected] (Mar 13, 2008)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (hover)*

On a mk2 vr6, does anyone know the part number of the v1 charger that fits? Counter clockwise rotation.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (mathias_rotrex)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mathias_rotrex* »_Here in europe it`s 2 rotrex vr6 12v that I know about. One in the u.k, c30-94 rotrex,
262 cams and some other goodies.
I think it was 402 crank hp with 18psi boost.
Belive it was with stock exhuast manifold and tiny 2,5 exhuast system.
The other one that I know about is my own car. I running also a c30-94 rotrex sc, but i running more boost, 20-21psi.
The strange is that`s no one in the usa that running a rotrex on their vr6.
Why is that?

No dealers!


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_On a mk2 vr6, does anyone know the part number of the v1 charger that fits? Counter clockwise rotation.

you kind of answered it yourself. its a v1 with counter clockwise rotation. the v1's have been superceded now with the new Si trims and such.
you looking for the part number that vortech uses?


----------



## [email protected] (Mar 13, 2008)

Yeah that would be awesome.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Let me present an answer to protecting and prolonging the life of your expensive coil pack:
















During recent testing we witnessed a temperature drop of 62 degrees Fahrenheit between the timing chain cover and the mating surface of the coil pack. 
Works for 12v VR6s. Price includes shipping within the U.S. and Canada.
*Order:* http://www.shop.verdictmotorsp...Id=17










_Modified by [email protected] at 4:32 PM 1-24-2010_


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: ([email protected])*

oooooh!!! nice!!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Very awesome, if I was still running the stock coilpack, I'd be all over it. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Let me present an answer to protecting and prolonging the life of your expensive coil pack:
















During recent testing we witnessed a temperature drop of 62 degrees Fahrenheit between the timing chain cover and the mating surface of the coil pack. 
Works for 12v VR6s. Price includes shipping within the U.S. and Canada.
*Order:* http://www.shop.verdictmotorsp...Id=17









_Modified by [email protected] at 4:32 PM 1-24-2010_

Ordered!!!!


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (littlenr)*

That looks like a nice piece. Those coilpacks are close to $300 new. $30 to keep alot of heat away from it seems like a no-brainer.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Price drop on the coupe!


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: ([email protected]torsports)*

you guys never cease to amaze me 
awesome idea http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 71camaro (Apr 20, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

I have a few questions about the setup I will be putting together. I'm in a mk4 GTI, 12valve. The engine will be a WRD big valve with DRC 268/264 cams, with a lightened flywheel, and hopefully by the time my kit is together I'll have the Estyles header and TT downpipe. I'm hoping througha 2.5" exhaust I'm able to breathe enough. My questions are the following:
1. I'm shooting to use a V1 charger, but a V2 has come available for cheap, the power numbers should be the same?
2. If I run a 15# pulley and intercool, will the stock intake mani be safe to run? I've read yes and no, that because the boost will be linear it should be ok.
3. Given the boost, should I run a mk3 headspacer or a 9:1?
4. I have GIAC software on the car now, is that a good choice or should I go C2?
I think this setup, through an 02j with a 3.94 ring and pinion and limited slip, will put down very big numbers for an s/c vr, any opinions would be greatly appreciated


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (71camaro)*


_Quote, originally posted by *71camaro* »_I have a few questions about the setup I will be putting together. I'm in a mk4 GTI, 12valve. The engine will be a WRD big valve with DRC 268/264 cams, with a lightened flywheel, and hopefully by the time my kit is together I'll have the Estyles header and TT downpipe. I'm hoping througha 2.5" exhaust I'm able to breathe enough. My questions are the following:
1. I'm shooting to use a V1 charger, but a V2 has come available for cheap, the power numbers should be the same?
2. If I run a 15# pulley and intercool, will the stock intake mani be safe to run? I've read yes and no, that because the boost will be linear it should be ok.
3. Given the boost, should I run a mk3 headspacer or a 9:1?
4. I have GIAC software on the car now, is that a good choice or should I go C2?
I think this setup, through an 02j with a 3.94 ring and pinion and limited slip, will put down very big numbers for an s/c vr, any opinions would be greatly appreciated

1) The V2 (s-trim) is being over-spun @ 15psi. I'd suggest using a V1 T-trim as you'll be at about 85% of its max speed and have a longer lifespan. Not to mention the T-trim is a heavy duty blower and flows 20% more air then the standard V2.
2) The MK4 12v manifolds typically blow up around 13psi. I'd suggest using a mk3 style or ideally (being that you're using an intercooler) pick up a short runner.
3) You can get away with using a 9.4:0 with the T-trim.
4) I'd suggest on getting a custom tune. If you read through the thread you'll find C2 tunes are not ideal for supercharged cars. Granted they work, but are not advised. Fueling is rich throughout the map, but because they were written for turbo cars are pig rich in the mid range. To give you an idea I've see as much as a 33whp gain from dialing back C2's fueling on a supercharged 12v. 
With a V1 you can expect to put down 320-350whp with a good tune. The 3.94 will definitely make it seem like its got another hundred horsepower.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 71camaro (Apr 20, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

I'd like to see mid twelves on this setup with full interior, is that realistic? I think getting and keeping traction will be the main issue with this


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (71camaro)*


_Quote, originally posted by *71camaro* »_I'd like to see mid twelves on this setup with full interior, is that realistic? I think getting and keeping traction will be the main issue with this

Definitely. Its all going to come down to your tire selection and the launch. The advantage of the blower is peak power is higher in the rev-band, so you're moving by the time you're putting down all the power.


----------



## pressplay (Jun 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

4) I'd suggest on getting a custom tune. If you read through the thread you'll find C2 tunes are not ideal for supercharged cars. Granted they work, but are not advised. Fueling is rich throughout the map, but because they were written for turbo cars are pig rich in the mid range. To give you an idea I've see as much as a 33whp gain from dialing back C2's fueling on a supercharged 12v. 

[/QUOTE]

I've been wanting to ask this question for awhile, does anyone know who is capable of doing custom tunes in northern Cali, specific in the San Francisco bay area?


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (pressplay)*

Is there sombody that makes a Sri for the mk4 12v? personal or com. Would the vf pipes from my car work with a v1


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (flybye1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *flybye1* »_Is there sombody that makes a Sri for the mk4 12v? personal or com. Would the vf pipes from my car work with a v1


You have to modify the discharge pipe from the super charger. Is your car intercooled? 
C2, and Shimmel make SRIs for the 12valves.


----------



## 71camaro (Apr 20, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

With the V-1, should I go T-trim or can I safely run a lower trim?


----------



## vanilla gorilla (Jul 7, 2004)

guys, i'm running a vf stage 3 kit. now, i am piecing together a devils' own/snow kit. Now, i spoke with Chance at DO's. he gave me some great help but now i have a question for all of you.
Should i go MAF or MAP system. I know the MAF system might be the best option. 
Anyone have any advice to a new WM user?
thanks,


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (vanilla gorilla)*

I ran a Snow Stage 2 kit with a MAP controller with my 24v VF Stge 2. It runs off of boost and seemed to be accurate. The only problem you will see with a WMI kit and VF is that you will have a hard time tuning it. I was never able to get it tuned and I think I lost power due to quenching. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif Also, make sure you mount the pump below the resivoir. The pump is gravity fed..


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (71camaro)*


_Quote, originally posted by *71camaro* »_With the V-1, should I go T-trim or can I safely run a lower trim?

you can run a v1 s trim. you dont need to run a t trim, but Phil is just recommending it since it wont be maxed out, and flows more cfm to begin with, resulting in more power with less boost.
ive seen 14psi out of my v1, no issues. i do have upgraded bearings though.


----------



## kzy247365 (Dec 10, 2006)

I need to stop reading this thread... My AMS V1 set up has been on my car for eight years now. I haven't started the car in 2 months. I have 2 cylinders with low compression/bad rings. Still runs good, but smokes like a champ. Anyone wanna donate some parts to get'er runnin again? I may have to get a 3rd job!!! Damn VR withdrawls.


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (kzy247365)*

Hell...MKIII VRs are cheeeeep!! Just replace the motor...


----------



## kzy247365 (Dec 10, 2006)

Any good leads on a cheap VR? One that i wont have to replace the rings in a 1000 miles? I'm wanting to build a fresh VR I know will last.


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (kzy247365)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kzy247365* »_Any good leads on a cheap VR? One that i wont have to replace the rings in a 1000 miles? I'm wanting to build a fresh VR I know will last.









Call up these guys:
http://www.dubsquared.net/
They are in Arlington. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif If anything, they can help you rebuild your current motor.


----------



## kzy247365 (Dec 10, 2006)

Cool Thanks! Im goin up there next weekend to get the wifey a van. I wonder if she would let me put a VR in the back? HAHA!!!


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

ok so from reading on here, ive noticed a lot of you guys are running a 3.94 02a tranny. what do you have to do to get this gear ratio? do you have to buy a brand new tranny, or is there a way to rebuild one with that ratio? ive got a corrado 02a tranny ive been thinking about building up for my gti, for lsd and better clutch, and from what everyone on here has been saying, the 3.94 is the ****. just wanting a little bit more info on it is all. thanks


----------



## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *black 86 rocco* »_ok so from reading on here, ive noticed a lot of you guys are running a 3.94 02a tranny. what do you have to do to get this gear ratio? do you have to buy a brand new tranny, or is there a way to rebuild one with that ratio? ive got a corrado 02a tranny ive been thinking about building up for my gti, for lsd and better clutch, and from what everyone on here has been saying, the 3.94 is the ****. just wanting a little bit more info on it is all. thanks

you just need to change the R&P (requires a tranny rebuild)


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Ready for warmer weather to enjoy the supercharger with!


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

im wondering. is there any of u guys running a super charged VR6 in California at all? how easy is it to get past inspection? iv got a AMS kit so at some point it was street legal but w/ my car being a mk2 vr6 w/ a charger i think im looking at lots of pain to get past inspection. but i hope not.


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

*Re: (TBT-Syncro)*

Ford anyone has the 3.94 ring n pinion for sale? I've been thinking about change my diff ratio for a while and the options are 3.94 or 3.68. Let's me see some oppinions about that please. Wich it's the best option for a SC car? Obviosly, the two of those are better Than the stock one 3.3* 
Or where can I find those parts in a good price


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (Bo0sted_Rafi)*

man this thread has been kinda slow.... here is a pic of the start of the w/m install. i still have to paint the brackets and clean them up a little. the resovoir is where the cd changer used to be, and the cover still fits over it for a stock look http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif just started working on the pump mounts. 
edit: and sorry for the cell phone pic!









_Modified by mk4vrjtta at 6:46 PM 2-1-2010_


_Modified by mk4vrjtta at 6:46 PM 2-1-2010_


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (carsluTT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *carsluTT* »_im wondering. is there any of u guys running a super charged VR6 in California at all? how easy is it to get past inspection? iv got a AMS kit so at some point it was street legal but w/ my car being a mk2 vr6 w/ a charger i think im looking at lots of pain to get past inspection. but i hope not. 

I know the VF kit, like what I have, states pretty specifically it isn't CARB certified.. I used to live in Cali and whenever it was smog check time, it was tear down and rebuild time for me... good luck http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (mk4vrjtta)*

Cool deal, good luck with the install, I'd love to see how it turns out. I hid mine under a false floor in the trunk, but I have a monster reservoir as well. Just a hole cut for the cap/vent there. The pump and all that are down there secured but with some air paths to they don't overheat.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

dasGolf, just wondering, what path did you take for the water/meth line. i dont want to go near the exhaust with it. did you just run it through the car?


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (mk4vrjtta)*

I did, if you see the faint black line on the edge and the red wire, I went along the backseat, then under the trim and through the firewall. I have the solenoid upgrade since I'm doing a dual nozzle and throttle body plate.. so once it came through the firewall I just tested to make sure I was getting pressure.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

mmk. ill prolly be routing it that way too.i did order an odII throttle body plate for the w/m from usrt and spoke to scott and he wasnt sure if it would work on the mk4. it does fit right?


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: (mk4vrjtta)*

I'm in Cali with a vf kit, i haven't had to smog it yet but I have a buddy that takes care of me when I did my other cars. I may be able to help depending on where in Cali you are.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (mk4vrjtta)*

If you got the same throttle body plate I did, it fits just fine, yep. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dasGolf01* »_If you got the same throttle body plate I did, it fits just fine, yep. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

just got my money returned today from scott at usrt because he said it wouldnt fit??







he said the mk3 tb is not the same size as the mk4. i thought they were both 3in.? i found another here but its $70 with out shipping. http://www.intengineering.com/....html. he said hed look into it more so we'll see. you would think that they would know this because they could be making a little more money advertising to mk4 owners


----------



## pressplay (Jun 25, 2008)

*Re: (flybye1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *flybye1* »_I'm in Cali with a vf kit, i haven't had to smog it yet but I have a buddy that takes care of me when I did my other cars. I may be able to help depending on where in Cali you are.

You wouldn't happen to know anyone in northern cal bay area would ya?


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

ok sooo what does a supercharger sound like if its going out or needs a rebuild? just wondering cuz i can hear a squeak when i am at certain rpm, not idle, but like 1800rpm or up i can hear one and it gets more constant the higher the rpm, now i did the screwdriver trick by putting the screwdriver end on the charger itself and listening on the handle, couldnt hear ANYTHING coming from the charger, so im wondering, does the waterpump pulley start to squeak when the pump is going bad? cuz i cant figure out what it is, and im timid on driving it.


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

ok so i may have a good deal here, but want input! theres a v2 supercharger for sale on the forced induction forums, came off of a 24v car, 12k miles on the charger, guys wantin 700 shipped. i currently have the v9, and i plan to run 12psi. go for it? or no?


----------



## KeyDub (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*

Get the serial number and check with VFE. The V1 i bought form the classifieds had "about 10,000 miles on it". It blew up after 1000 mi http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif . after i sent it to VFE for upgrade/rebuild. i found out it was 10 yrs old







 . So i tell everyone to check the serial number. the V1 T-trim has been a blast so far... good luck with your kit http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
KeyDub


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

Keydub, was ur post to my question about the v2


----------



## KeyDub (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*

Yes B86 it was. just trying to help others avoid what happened to me


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

oh ok haha thanks for the heads up! what is everyones opinion of the v2 over the v9? and for the price? what all would have to be changed over? like brackets etc...


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*

v2's never went on 24v vr6 unless it was custom. someone correct me if im wrong.


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: (KeyDub)*

Humm I'll ask a few buddys they may have a name and number for a norcal guy. I will pm you in a day or two and let you know either way. 
As far as the sound from the charger, mine made a funny sound a day before my water pump pully broke in to two parts. I guess I tightened the belt to much. Have you tightened yours latley? This may be the problem and maynot be. Just throwing out my last issue.Good luck


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

flybye, what kind of noise are you talking about? yes i just replaced my best, so possibly could be overtension..


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (mk4vrjtta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk4vrjtta* »_v2's never went on 24v vr6 unless it was custom. someone correct me if im wrong. 

VF made a couple kits for 24v/R32's.


----------



## kzy247365 (Dec 10, 2006)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*

Did you check you power steering pump. My made all kinds of noise before it went. I thought it was the charger at one point.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (mk4vrjtta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk4vrjtta* »_v2's never went on 24v vr6 unless it was custom. someone correct me if im wrong. 

they made *exacly* 1 V2 based Kit for the 12V VR6....mine.


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.LSinLV.* »_
they made *exacly* 1 V2 based Kit for the 12V VR6....mine.









AAAAAND what's the progress of the updated setup?








BTW, I'll be in Vegas at the end of the month...


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (Lew_Dog)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lew_Dog* »_
AAAAAND what's the progress of the updated setup?








BTW, I'll be in Vegas at the end of the month...









blew the charger....currently rebuilding it...and getting the Schimmel SRIM on the car.....then back to the dyno...








when you get to Vegas, hit me up..... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif oh wait! you're a "Turbo Turn-coat" so I am not sure if I should talk to you.....


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.LSinLV.* »_
when you get to Vegas, hit me up..... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif oh wait! you're a "Turbo Turn-coat" so I am not sure if I should talk to you.....









Wait....WUT???







I never went turbo..I'm selling my blower cause I sold my car....








I'll be in town with my wife and kid, but I am on my own for most of the weekend to gamble and do whatever...


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (Lew_Dog)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lew_Dog* »_
Wait....WUT???







I never went turbo..I'm selling my blower cause I sold my car....










Pm sent


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

*Re: (flybye1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *flybye1* »_I'm in Cali with a vf kit, i haven't had to smog it yet but I have a buddy that takes care of me when I did my other cars. I may be able to help depending on where in Cali you are.

i could use lots of help passing visual, i bet the car runs clean enough for the sniffer part, well hope at least it does!....


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

well if your out my way we can take care of it. I think the kit would run clean enough to pass but you never know. 
wow, i must have deleated half of what i wrote in my last post.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

What compression is good to run on a s/c R3.2 motor? I will have a V1-t trim charger running over 15psi.


----------



## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

i ran a 8.5.1 headsapacer with r32 clyinder head and run fine, from 8/20psi but had crank bearing failure after a while runing 25psi this was with stock internals, with a holset hx40


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (adaptorman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *adaptorman* »_i ran a 8.5.1 headsapacer with r32 clyinder head and run fine, from 8/20psi but had crank bearing failure after a while runing 25psi this was with stock internals, with a holset hx40


I'm sticking to a supercharger set up. I've been a 12v guy forever and I'm still learning on the 24v abilities.


----------



## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

*Re: (littlenr)*

unsure regards supercharger as ive never run one tbh ,_Modified by adaptorman at 5:26 PM 2-4-2010_


_Modified by adaptorman at 5:29 PM 2-4-2010_


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (adaptorman)*

_Modified by EL DRIFTO at 7:21 PM 2-4-2010_


----------



## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

im going to edit this ,and add it in the forced induction so it dosent interfear with this therd


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

hy guys im going from a v9 setup over to a v2. what all brackets will i need to be able to bolt it to the engine? and does anyone have the brackets i will need for sale?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*

Four Seasons Tuning 
  Verdict Motorsports


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

i know four seasons has the bracket kit w/o the idler, does the v2 NEED the idler, or is it just an option? and i checked verdict first thing, but only the cogged setup and i dont have the $$ for a cogged setup, just wanna go with the basic setup. will a 24v bracket work or no?..


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*

Are you putting this on a mk3 or mk4?


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

mk3


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*

I'd get it with out the idler. But the V2 needs one with higher than 8psi i think.


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

what do you guys think of running a g60 o2a tranny on my mk3 vr? i've got a friend who has one in his garage that ive been talkin about takin off his hands pretty cheap, been thi8nkin about doin that and swapping a differnt fifth in it for better highway mileage. what are your opinions?


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*

the G60 box wont fit your Vr6 block as it is, you'll have to swap the bell housing (which is the gear stack carrier) then it will work, but swapping the bell housing is quite a bit work, unless you"d be installing an LSD at the same time, as splitting the case and removing 2 out of the 3 (?) stacks is required for an LSD install. after that, make sure the final drive ratio is either A compatible with your setup or B what you are after for your setup and go from there....
IIRC all vw transaxle gear ratios are listed on techtonics site


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

Guys, I'm running my car with 2.5 exhaust with oem muffler. Now Im going to change the muffler but I've been thinking about do some porting job on the manifolds and make a custom downpipe or if better a header like the raceland one. Can somebody got results of this kind of mod? Wich it's better?


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (Bo0sted_Rafi)*

do the downpipe defintiely.....it gained me 20whp with a high flow cat (but this is with a 3" exhaust from the downpipe back). http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

well i pulled apart the V9 that was on my R because it has been making some odd noise, upon inspection i found the cage that goes around the balls had exploded and i am missing a good piece of it


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (websaabn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *websaabn* »_well i pulled apart the V9 that was on my R because it has been making some odd noise, upon inspection i found the cage that goes around the balls had exploded and i am missing a good piece of it









Congrats Brandon! Guess that means the v1 is happening sooner then expected. Atleast now you have an excuse to upgrade


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*

pm sent!


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

That was with the downpipe, 3" exhaust or only de DP? That gain was vs wich mods before the mods?


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (Bo0sted_Rafi)*

I already had a custom 3" cat back....when I added the dp and highflow cat, I gained 20whp....and this is common based upon other S/C'd VR's I've seen.


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

Its a good gain of hp. Props to you. Do you have pics of your dp? I just need to do that and change my 3.3* ****ty diff



_Modified by Bo0sted_Rafi at 7:17 AM 2-10-2010_


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (Bo0sted_Rafi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bo0sted_Rafi* »_Its a food gain of hp. Props to you. Do you have pics of your dp? I just need to do that and change my 3.3* ****ty diff


I believe Larry is running a regular TT unit.
20whp is common with the downpipe upgrade on supercharged VR6s running a decent amount of boost.


----------



## redvr6sc (Feb 10, 2010)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (hover)*

i am running an obd1 1995 vr6 jetta with a v1 supercharger non intercooled (3.12 pulley) c2 software, 4inch maf housing, #36 injectors 255lph inline walbro pump and 4.5 bar fpr from performance cafe.Stock motor ,stock compression composite head gasket installed 3yrs ago,charger installed 2 weeks ago.Schrick 268 cams, bosal header, 2.5 inch autotech magnaflow cat back with 2.5 inch test pipe(cat delete).stock gearbox using ACT HDg6 clutch and pp.BFI stage 1 engine mounts all around ,H&R sport cup kit and swaybars ,neuspeed front strut brace and steel braided brake lines.ngk #6 iridium spark plugs and blue ignitor wires.i see 10psi boost at redline 7k.
i have not dynoed the car yet because i want to change the sc pulley to 2.75 inch and maybe change the fpr to a 3.0 bar.any opinions on the exhaust?any help to optimize my setup would be appreciated.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
I believe Larry is running a regular TT unit.
20whp is common with the downpipe upgrade on supercharged VR6s running a decent amount of boost. 

Phil is correct.....the local fabricator was going to make me a custom unit, but time was short and the TT unit was nearly exact to his design....although his primaries are a bit bigger than the TT unit, I don't think I would have seen a huge difference between them.


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

*Re: ([email protected])*

My goal its 12psi of boost. I got a 2.7* pulley but i got belt slipping because I just see 7-8 psi. I will go to the dyno to make a full pass with the boost dataloging to make my adjusment to the belt. 
Nobody knows the who gain with the header vs the oem manifolds n downpipe?


----------



## Bo0sted_Rafi (Feb 24, 2009)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

The downpipe it's 2" each runner and 2.5 in the collector?


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (Bo0sted_Rafi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bo0sted_Rafi* »_The downpipe it's 2" each runner and 2.5 in the collector?

yes


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (redvr6sc)*


_Quote, originally posted by *redvr6sc* »_i want to change the sc pulley to 2.75 inch

I have that pulley for sale, for when you're ready.








sounds like you have a good setup there. The weak link is going to be the tune. obd1 C2 tunes are crap. Most people have so much headache with them that they ditch the tune and either pay for a custom tune or go standalone (like I did and a few others). If you don't have any problems with it, then that's awesome, but I wouldn't hold your breath.


----------



## redvr6sc (Feb 10, 2010)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (obdONE)*

could u b more specific as to the problems with c2 obd1 tunes. only issue that jumps out so far is the idle and cruising below 1500 rpm is not always good


----------



## redvr6sc (Feb 10, 2010)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (obdONE)*

where can i get a 3.9 r & p gear to buy for my tranny


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (redvr6sc)*


_Quote, originally posted by *redvr6sc* »_where can i get a 3.9 r & p gear to buy for my tranny

http://www.autotech.com


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (redvr6sc)*

when I had C2 on my car, I had the whole gamut of issues. Idle would bounce between 500 and 2000 anytime I was "at idle" engine would die whenever I came to a stop after driving, ran pig rich (to the point of making me nauseous in the car while driving) changed to a 3bar fpr to try to compensate, but ran dangerously lean at WOT, went back to 4bar and got better AFR, but only made 210whp. It was a mess. Just a big stinking mess...


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (obdONE)*

hows the MS been for you? did you DIY or buy a prebuilt? 
what kind of base tune ddi you use?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (scirockin16v)*

so far absolutely amazing. I bought Paul's (need_a_vr6) personal one off unit that he built for his car. He also made a custom plug and play harness so there was no wiring modification at all.
I'm getting a full tune within the next couple weeks, so I'll post up the result.
already though, on a broken tune, and no experience by me, my car runs 1000x better than with C2.


----------



## redvr6sc (Feb 10, 2010)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (obdONE)*

i am having a few of those issues u mentioned but with a little experimentation i figured out how to minimize those probs.first is to wire a hobbs switch to the inline fuel pump so it only run at 4 psi or more.use the stock 4 bar fpr .if i could get a fpr that has a baseline pressure of 3.5 bar and increases immediately to 4.5 bar whenever positive manifold pressure is sensed that would be ideal. i dont want a rising rate regulator.
what is your opinion?
i found that the 3 bar fpr has excellent idle and low speed cruise ability but is way lean at wot.my 4.5 bar is excellent under acceleration.


----------



## redvr6sc (Feb 10, 2010)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (obdONE)*

maybe c2 just needs to reduce the injector opening time at lower rpm s.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (redvr6sc)*

yeah, like i said, good luck. tricks and shortcuts and whatnots will only get you so far. C2 just doesn't deliver for supercharged cars, and even worse for obd1 cars.
It's like a buddy of mine said, it's ridiculous to spend thousands and thousands of dollars on an FI setup and then a couple hundred on the fueling to run it.

_Quote, originally posted by *redvr6sc* »_maybe c2 just needs to reduce the injector opening time at lower rpm s.

and they will, too. For $1000.00!!! (custom tune)


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

alright well it looks like i should have the new v2 blower and brackets here tomorrow, and should have them installed on the car by tomorrow evening, will take pics to show process, shouldnt be too hard since car is already s/c, just upgrading chargers haha and doing a little cleaning of the bay








couple questions though. i have a lightweight crank pulley on my vr. would this have any affect on the amount of PSI the car is capable of? and does anyone have a guess to what a 2.65" pulley will make on the v2? thanks


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *black 86 rocco* »_alright well it looks like i should have the new v2 blower and brackets here tomorrow, and should have them installed on the car by tomorrow evening, will take pics to show process, shouldnt be too hard since car is already s/c, just upgrading chargers haha and doing a little cleaning of the bay








couple questions though. i have a lightweight crank pulley on my vr. would this have any affect on the amount of PSI the car is capable of? and does anyone have a guess to what a 2.65" pulley will make on the v2? thanks


The 2.65"pulley will be around 10psi. And with a lightweight crank pulley you wont have boost issues, unless its a underdrive. The only thing you need to worry about is diameter. If the crank is smaller you will see less boost, and if its larger then you will see more boost on the same size charger pulley.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (obdONE)*

Quote, originally posted by redvr6sc »
maybe c2 just needs to reduce the injector opening time at lower rpm s.


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_and they will, too. For $1000.00!!! (custom tune)

I have spent the money on their custom tune, it made more power than th chip tune, gave a few more codes (that coulld not be written out for that much money LOL) and is still not 100%.
FS if anyone is interested. Dyno proven, 301 whp. 
I'm done w/ chip tunes, standalone is in the near future.


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

whats the difference in underdrive pulleys? sorry for the NOOB questions haha not sure if its smaller or not, i guess i should measure the diameter when i pull off the charger today.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

^ Price. 
Most all underdrive pulleys are also lightweight, but not all lightweight are underdrive.
And there is really no difference in quality btwn brands, just colors & price.


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

ok, does anyone have any pics of the four seasons tuning brackets installed on their car? having some issues with mine.....no instructions or anything on mounting, so im a little confused


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

nvrmind, im just effing stupid haha


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*

update:
still have to trim/paint the sheet metal for the pump mounting but you get the idea...


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

who all has used the four seasons tuning supercharger bracket kit? have had a couple of confusing problems with it, i believe i have everything put on correctly, but it just looks weird to me. ben talkin to james up at four seasons and been helpful, just wondering if anyone else has any experience with it, maybe install pics?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*

Here is one I nabbed off my setups. 








What issues are you having?


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

i actually spoke with james on the phone, and i do believe i have my issue solved, for now at least, trying to decide either A. get a charge pipe remade to fit the blower, or B. run the intercooler i have and not get one remade.


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

has anyone ever had to bend their fuel rail a little bit for clearane of the supercharger pulley? and is it safe to do so?


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*

Yes and yes. Just go slow and be careful to not kink it.


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*FV-QR*

gonna be selling the hardware for my V9 kit this season. if anyone's interested, LMK via PM or email. ceramic bearings, rebuilt last june. hit me up.


----------



## burnite2 (Jan 14, 2009)

*Re: (mk4vrjtta)*

mk4vrjtta, 
i see that your runing autotech 262 cams. what software/chip are you runing, and what kind of A/F ratio's are you seeing at freeway speeds, 75 to 80mph, and wide open throttle. i'm thinking of doing to my setup, looking for some feedback.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (burnite2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *burnite2* »_mk4vrjtta, 
i see that your runing autotech 262 cams. what software/chip are you runing, and what kind of A/F ratio's are you seeing at freeway speeds, 75 to 80mph, and wide open throttle. i'm thinking of doing to my setup, looking for some feedback. 

just cruising its about 14-15:1. WOT its in high 12's at about 2-3psi...then the a/f goes to low 12's high 11's from 5500rpm and on.
ive heard about these kits running lean with cams but i really havnt had a problem with that. software is the stage 2 GIAC 
Edit: i am using an innovate wideband btw

_Modified by mk4vrjtta at 12:26 PM 2-17-2010_

_Modified by mk4vrjtta at 12:28 PM 2-17-2010_


_Modified by mk4vrjtta at 12:35 PM 2-17-2010_


----------



## burnite2 (Jan 14, 2009)

*Re: (mk4vrjtta)*

did you have the cams in the motor before you put the charger on, or did you put the cams in afterwards. if you did the later, what kind of gains did you feel or see, and did you change valve springs or just keep the stock ones. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (burnite2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *burnite2* »_did you have the cams in the motor before you put the charger on, or did you put the cams in afterwards. if you did the later, what kind of gains did you feel or see, and did you change valve springs or just keep the stock ones. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

i already had the cams before i put on the blower, but even when it was n/a you could feel a nice gain from them. i still have the stock valve springs and have never had any problems. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (mk4vrjtta)*

I have the same setup on that portion, though I did my lifters and springs. Most people don't have a problem. I got a decent deal on them so I went with it anyhow. I had the blower on first and still noticed some gains with the cams, but since I am also running the GIAC Stage 2, I didn't notice as much as you can get with say, C2 or standalone. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (dasGolf01)*

The combined efforts of Noah and a buddy of mine locally (mostly Noah, though







) created my new masterpiece of an "anti-belt-slip-max-boost" 2.5" pulley. Enjoy:
























BELT SLIP BE GONE!
Now that I have the pulley, I hope to get my full tune done next Saturday, the 27th. Stay tuned.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*

Glad to help push the limits http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*

methinks I'll be needing one of those when they become available, IF they become avaialbe


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Glad to help push the limits http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

WOOT!
Thanks for all your help, Noah! I couldn't have done this (and pretty much my entire current upgrade project) without your and Phil's help and the support, innovation, and dedication Verdict provides to us blower-heads. Keep it up!


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

whoa, thats awesome. i always thought about trying something like that, mostly just slicing into a pulley. the v-shaped cuts look better though, nice work!
can i buy a 2.75" 7-rib?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (ThaCorradoKid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ThaCorradoKid* »_can i buy a 2.75" 7-rib?

I have an almost brand new 2.75" 8 rib that I can do the same treatment to and sell to you. PM me if you're interested. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

planning to install VF v9 stage II kit on my corrado (8psi), I currently have Eurosport light under drive pulley, is it a good idea to keep it, or find a stock pulley ? Would it just mean , ill run less then 8psi ? hrm or I should get 15psi pully , maybe put me around 10psi , how can I determine this any ideas? Don't want to run too much on v9 10psi would be ideal
_Modified by BoostedTinCan at 2:15 PM 2-20-2010_


_Modified by BoostedTinCan at 2:42 PM 2-20-2010_


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

oh smacks...... i see a pulley i will have to beg for a copy of to install on my own car!.. 
nice work


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (BoostedTinCan)*

anything more than 11psi wil seriously shorten the life of the V9


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

I will just run 8psi and see how I like it, 10 sounds on the margin for me, not sure what pulley i would need


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (BoostedTinCan)*

there is an impeeolr speed calulator on the vortech site......it might be in this thread as well.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

selling both my C2 SC chips if anyone is interested.
Corrado OBD1 Coilpack. 
ECU is ..258BA
C2 'supercharger' chip w/ encryption board $230
C2 'Custom tune chip' w/ encryption board. $650 
*made another 25-30hp over 'kit chip'. dynoed at 301 whp.
tuned for 94 Corrado w/ Autotech 262's & MK4 HG, NSPD catback, & 15# cogged pulley system.


----------



## luckyvr6 (Jan 6, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*

There is a company in Maryland that did these for mustangs.


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (luckyvr6)*

Hey guys finally got my Corrado on the road today and there are some issues. I'll give a quick rundown:
V9 charger w 9psi pulley 
30lb injectors
c2 software
Now the car runs awesome when driving, runs great on the freeway smooth no hiccups at all. When I go WOT it runs like sh*t! it! I have a boost gauge and it's hitting 5psi max. It feels like it cut outs and is being held back. It feels slower then when I super charged it. Can someone help? Thanks!


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (ZEBLOR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ZEBLOR* »_Hey guys finally got my Corrado on the road today and there are some issues. I'll give a quick rundown:
V9 charger w 9psi pulley 
30lb injectors
c2 software
Now the car runs awesome when driving, runs great on the freeway smooth no hiccups at all. When I go WOT it runs like sh*t! it! I have a boost gauge and it's hitting 5psi max. It feels like it cut outs and is being held back. It feels slower then when I super charged it. Can someone help? Thanks!

















Sounds like belt slip on the top end. Check your belt tension, should be like a 16v timing belt. You should be able to rotate ~45 deg in either direction. Too tight and you can cause damage to the bearings. 
10psi on a V9 is running a 2.7" pulley. Operation speed @ 7200 engine rpm's would be : 49000rpms *(94% of MAX operational speed)* This is with the stock 5.400" crank pulley.


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_
Sounds like belt slip on the top end. Check your belt tension, should be like a 16v timing belt. You should be able to rotate ~45 deg in either direction. Too tight and you can cause damage to the bearings. 
10psi on a V9 is running a 2.7" pulley. Operation speed @ 7200 engine rpm's would be : 49000rpms *(94% of MAX operational speed)* This is with the stock 5.400" crank pulley. 


Okay I don't think it's the belt. I'm pretty sure it's good. I don't think it would miss or run like it's being help back if the belt were slipping. I'm running a 2.75" C2 pulley.(9psi according to them) Something is definitely not right. Any other thoughts?


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

Zeblor, What kind of fuel pressure are you seeing? 
What matter is the pressure @ WOT. Tap in a gauge for either rolling road pull or dyno.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (ZEBLOR)*

i think it would run too rich & cut out wot with too much fuel & belt slip/not enough air, wot
i also think a dirty fuel filter would cause it to do that but the fuel pres gauge or wideband could show which problems


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_Zeblor, What kind of fuel pressure are you seeing? 
What matter is the pressure @ WOT. Tap in a gauge for either rolling road pull or dyno. 


I have no idea. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge. I have an oil pressure, and boost gauge.
The air filter is brand new. It's one of those short mushroom filters because it's tight underneath there. I have read that the MAF has to be 18" away from the charger inlet. Right now I don't think it is. I'm really stumped here and i have no idea how to fix this.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (ZEBLOR)*

did you check your plug gap since the kit is new to the car?


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

I didn't. I put new plugs in. I don't remember what they were but they are what most SC guys are running but I didn't gap them. What's the gap?


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (ZEBLOR)*

start at .026


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

Will c2 #30 software be fine with VF stage II kit with 2.65 pulley ? not sure how much psi that is, but it should be more then 8, around 10 or so ? I asume since 2.5 is 12psi


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (mk4vrjtta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk4vrjtta* »_start at .026

Tried that, didn't change anything.


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

*Re: (BoostedTinCan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BoostedTinCan* »_Will c2 #30 software be fine with VF stage II kit with 2.65 pulley ? not sure how much psi that is, but it should be more then 8, around 10 or so ? I asume since 2.5 is 12psi

c2 is fine. but with the 10 to 12 psi without an intercooler or a meth kit, there may be some detonation going on. we will both find out soon enough i guess.


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

*Re: (mk4vrjtta)*



mk4vrjtta said:


> just cruising its about 14-15:1. WOT its in high 12's at about 2-3psi...then the a/f goes to low 12's high 11's from 5500rpm and on.
> ive heard about these kits running lean with cams but i really havnt had a problem with that. software is the stage 2 GIAC
> Edit: i am using an innovate wideband btw
> 
> ...


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

you know, i was reading the posts on some of the prior pages about the c2 tunes on a obd1 motor. wow, i am glad i did not have any of those issue's. the only thing that i do not like is that the a/f will bounce from 13 to 15 at idle. it kind of sounds like a muscle car with cams with the gas going into the motor then leaning out. going down the road, it is almost solid on 14.1 very very little deflection. i have seen it go into the 10's at high rpms with the pulley slipping a little. i can't wait to do the 10psi pulley. seems that there is plenty of fuel there . the giac was very stong on the oem build and 4k it was like flipping a switch. then the 262 cams, and the af's went as high as 16. the power was smooth, but it was not the monster that it was in the stock build. as i said above, c2 is not perfect, but much better than the gaic in my car. i don't know where the other's bought there chips from, but i got mine from james at four season tuning and when i ordered it , i had to give some specifics on the ecu, and that it was for a charger and not a turbo. i have seen a few chips for sale on the tex, but i was not comfortable that i would get the right one, so i bought it directly from chris at c2 thought the help of four season tuning.


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

Whats a nice meth kit go for, or what would be a nice meth kit . My motor is stock, just light flywheel, and mk4 HG, it should be fine with 8psi, not sure about 10psi, I Would need more input from users about the mk4 HG.


_Modified by BoostedTinCan at 2:01 AM 2-22-2010_


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (BoostedTinCan)*

My A/F did not bounce at all at idle and I had ZERO driveability issues w/ the C2 30# distributor chip when the car was supercharged. A/F was 14.2-14.9 at idle and would toggle between those two numbers.
SLC's are 17-18 yrs. old. I wouldn't assume all driveability issues are the chip.
I ran just under 12psi, stock headgasket (10:1), no intercooler, no meth, 93 octane.


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

VF STage II (8psi)
12v obd1 vr6 with mk4 head gasket
c2 #30
I know I will probably be pushing it with 8psi on mk4 HG, I'm planing to refresh the motor either way sometime this year, I guess my question is, should it last a bit, or it's just going KABOOM very soon.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

I was @ 15# W/ MK4 HG on c2 Rado 30# tune. I would see slight detonation when it was hot, pull I was also pulling max timing.
I just went to SP 9.4:1.. but I'm still breaking in my new motor.


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

15 # ? you mean psi ?


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (BoostedTinCan)*

Okay I drove the car to work today(around 55 miles round trip) and it's running like s*it even when driving. I was cruising on the freeway doing around 70 and came to some traffic, downshifted, and slowed down to about 30, once I pressed the clutch in the car died. It started right back up but why did it die?? Also it's starting to pick up a real lumpy idle. I don't have cams in the car and it didn't do this before. Can someone help?? I'm really at a loss here. 


_Modified by ZEBLOR at 12:52 PM 2-22-2010_


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (ZEBLOR)*

Do you guys think maybe I got a bad chip from C2? I bought it brand new from [email protected] seasons.
BTW the car is a 92 SLC dist.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (ZEBLOR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ZEBLOR* »_Okay I drove the car to work today(around 55 miles round trip) and it's running like s*it even when driving. I was cruising on the freeway doing around 70 and came to some traffic, downshifted, and slowed down to about 30, once I pressed the clutch in the car died. It started right back up but why did it die?? Also it's starting to pick up a real lumpy idle. I don't have cams in the car and it didn't do this before. Can someone help?? I'm really at a loss here. 

_Modified by ZEBLOR at 12:52 PM 2-22-2010_

Was it raining out? The MAF may have gotten water on it and that will make the element get cold and shut the engine down.


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

*Re: (ZEBLOR)*

sounds like similar problem people are having when the MAF is too close to the charger, makes sure its at least 8-10" away


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_
Was it raining out? The MAF may have gotten water on it and that will make the element get cold and shut the engine down.









No surprisingly for once in WA state history it was actually beautiful in the month of February. There was no water at all on the road.


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (BoostedTinCan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BoostedTinCan* »_sounds like similar problem people are having when the MAF is too close to the charger, makes sure its at least 8-10" away










Yeah that's weird, it pretty much is 8-10" away. I have heard from more than 1 person that it needs to be 18" away from the charger inlet. People use like 3" dryer ducting and extend the MAF even farther away. So IDK what to do here. I guess I can start with pushing the MAF farther away, if that doesn't work I really have no idea what I'm going to do.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

My maf is in the same location as yours. I don't have running issues. Are you using C2 software or what? I'm not seeing a diverter valve recurculation. That will hurt the running of the car with C2 software. If you are that needs to be angled on the intake tube to direct the air towards the charger. If oil passes back through to the intake pipe it can drop onto the maf and do the same thing that water does. But in the case of the oil it tends to ruin the maf.


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_The combined efforts of Noah and a buddy of mine locally (mostly Noah, though







) created my new masterpiece of an "anti-belt-slip-max-boost" 2.5" pulley. Enjoy:
























BELT SLIP BE GONE!
Now that I have the pulley, I hope to get my full tune done next Saturday, the 27th. Stay tuned.

what would "Noah" want to do a 2nd one? i need to replace my pulley and would like to finish killing belt slippage


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_My maf is in the same location as yours. I don't have running issues. Are you using C2 software or what? I'm not seeing a diverter valve recurculation. That will hurt the running of the car with C2 software. If you are that needs to be angled on the intake tube to direct the air towards the charger. If oil passes back through to the intake pipe it can drop onto the maf and do the same thing that water does. But in the case of the oil it tends to ruin the maf.

I do have a DV. It's under the charger pipe. I have it set up exactly the same way VF calls for in their installation instructions. The only think I don't have is the crank case relocation. I have a small filter on there for now until I can get a catch can. Yes I'm running c2 software.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (ZEBLOR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ZEBLOR* »_

Yeah that's weird, it pretty much is 8-10" away. I have heard from more than 1 person that it needs to be 18" away from the charger inlet. People use like 3" dryer ducting and extend the MAF even farther away. So IDK what to do here. I guess I can start with pushing the MAF farther away, if that doesn't work I really have no idea what I'm going to do.









This is what I did. Extended the drawpipe back towards the passenger door with the 4 inch MAF housing on the end of it. Runs great and sounds good too


















_Modified by KubotaPowered at 7:53 PM 2-22-2010_


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (KubotaPowered)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KubotaPowered* »_
This is what I did. Extended the drawpipe back towards the passenger door with the 4 inch MAF housing on the end of it. Runs great and sounds good too

















_Modified by KubotaPowered at 7:53 PM 2-22-2010_

any more pics of that?? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (KubotaPowered)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KubotaPowered* »_
This is what I did. Extended the drawpipe back towards the passenger door with the 4 inch MAF housing on the end of it. Runs great and sounds good too

















_Modified by KubotaPowered at 7:53 PM 2-22-2010_

That's a great idea and thank you for the tip. Unfortunately I'm too low and my wheels are stuffed up in the fenders pretty far.


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

you buys arent afraid of water ? I've hit some storms in my life where i was forced to go into deep water unexpectedly, of coarse my corrado is a daily


----------



## jkillion (Feb 12, 2000)

*Re: (ZEBLOR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ZEBLOR* »_BTW the car is a 92 SLC dist.


_Quote, originally posted by *BoostedTinCan* »_sounds like similar problem people are having when the MAF is too close to the charger, makes sure its at least 8-10" away

I too have a 92 SLC w/ dist - running VF Stg2 with V9 charger, C2 30# chip (tried the VF chip from Giac too). I had all the same symptoms that people attribute to the distance between SC inlet and MAF. After moving it 18" away with no luck, I went to the extreme - I routed the intake all the way across the front of the car to the driver's side wheel well. This put the MAF about right center of the engine - about 36" away from the SC inlet. The result was almost exactly the same as having the MAF at the end of the VF pipe coming down from the SC inlet!








So, I finally broke down and got a RossTech scanner and found out that, sure enough, when the engine bogged or stalled, the MAF reading (called engine load in the OBD1 readout) would jump unusually high - above WOT readings. 
What I tried that fixed it was a honeycomb flow straightener in the MAF. I think (not sure, others please chime in) that many cars have a built-in flow straightener from the factory. for example:








The 92 Corrado SLC does not - it only has two screens, nothing at all to straighten the flow. I think the swirl generated at the SC inlet propagates to the MAF and makes the MAF think there is a lot more air flow than there actually is. It's an intermittent problem because it's a somewhat unstable flow situation. 
At any rate, the flow straightener fixed the idle stalling, part throttle hesitation and the jerky freeway cruising. I got mine from http://saxonpc.com/120mm-airfl....html 
- check out this video for a visualization of how it works http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNExOgtLt2w 
that's my $0.02 - hope it helps someone else. I'll post some pics of the honeycomb someday.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (ZEBLOR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ZEBLOR* »_
That's a great idea and thank you for the tip. Unfortunately I'm too low and my wheels are stuffed up in the fenders pretty far.









I'll take a pic of this car sitting on the ground, the VR lip is so low I cannot toe up to the front of the car to even check the oil, my shoes don't fit under it.

_Quote, originally posted by *mk4vrjtta* »_
any more pics of that?? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I will get some more pics up here in a bit.
As far as water is concerned, it has rained here at least once a week for the last 3 months and there haven't been any issues at all. This combo with the C2 software feels better than it ran stock.


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

*Re: (jkillion)*

great input!


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (ZEBLOR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ZEBLOR* »_Okay I drove the car to work today(around 55 miles round trip) and it's running like s*it even when driving. I was cruising on the freeway doing around 70 and came to some traffic, downshifted, and slowed down to about 30, once I pressed the clutch in the car died. It started right back up but why did it die?? Also it's starting to pick up a real lumpy idle. I don't have cams in the car and it didn't do this before. Can someone help?? I'm really at a loss here. 


If you took the time to read through this whole thread, like you should have, you would see that you are only about the 100th person to have these exact problems. The cause is the C2 software. A new chip will not fix it. Deleting everything they say to delete and buying all new sensors will not fix it. The only thing that will fix it is to change your fueling to something else. Most people that have dealt with this are now running standalone, like me.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

the truth has been spoken! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (carsluTT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *carsluTT* »_
what would "Noah" want to do a 2nd one? i need to replace my pulley and would like to finish killing belt slippage 

Noah machined and sandblasted the pulley for me, I did the grooves. If you want one, I currently have a 2.75" 8 rib Vortech pulley that I could do the same treatment to for $150.00.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_the truth has been spoken! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


In process of going 034 EFI here


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

034 is good stuff. I'm going Lugtronics PnP Stand Alone ECU http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
(selling both my chips if anyone is interested)


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

^^^
Both excellent choices. I was going to go Lugtronic before I found my MS unit, which is also a complete turn key PnP setup. God bless standalone with no wiring!


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_
If you took the time to read through this whole thread, like you should have, you would see that you are only about the 100th person to have these exact problems. The cause is the C2 software. A new chip will not fix it. Deleting everything they say to delete and buying all new sensors will not fix it. The only thing that will fix it is to change your fueling to something else. Most people that have dealt with this are now running standalone, like me.


Cool man yeah I didn't read through the entire thread It's over 2200 pages and was kinda hoping for a quick answer. Honestly stand alone is not an option for me. I just bought a house, and I have thrown over 6k at my Corrado the last 6 months(including the charger setup) so yeah not really looking to spend another $1000+. I'll probably end up selling the kit as I could really use the money elsewhere.


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (ZEBLOR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ZEBLOR* »_
Cool man yeah I didn't read through the entire thread It's over 2200 pages and was kinda hoping for a quick answer. Honestly stand alone is not an option for me. I just bought a house, and I have thrown over 6k at my Corrado the last 6 months(including the charger setup) so yeah not really looking to spend another $1000+. I'll probably end up selling the kit as I could really use the money elsewhere. 

What issues are you having and what's the setup? I ran a C2 30# dizzy chip w/ my VF kit at 8 and then 11.5 psi and had ZERO issues that I can remember.
MAF placement is critical. The car ran perfect after the MAF was extended 18" away from the charger inlet pipe.


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: (slc92)*

From what I've researched and gathered from here and other places it sounds like the OBD1 dizzy set up is pretty good, and the OBD1 coilpack setup is where were seeing these "issues". I'm seriously looking into going to GIAC stage2 chip, but my concern is that there MIGHT be issues with that software and the Autotech 262's I plan on doing in a few months. Any experiences? thoughts?


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (slc92)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slc92* »_
What issues are you having and what's the setup? I ran a C2 30# dizzy chip w/ my VF kit at 8 and then 11.5 psi and had ZERO issues that I can remember.
MAF placement is critical. The car ran perfect after the MAF was extended 18" away from the charger inlet pipe.

Th issues I'm having is no power at all under WOT. rough idle and bucking under WOT. Here's my set up:
92 SLC obd 1 distributor
V9 charger
30lb injectors(brand new)
c2 software(brand new)
9 psi pulley
egr delete
bosel header
42 draft design test pipe
TT 2.5" SS catback exhaust
From all the information I have gathered from the months of reading this thread I though I compiled all the best parts together to make a kick ass reliable Corrado. I did a lot of research on how the kit was installed and know that it's in there correctly. The guy I bought the kit from had it on his 96 Passat (OBD2) and he said this kit just ripped!! Obviously when I bough the kit I knew that I had to get the correct software for my OBD1 set up(C2) which I did. I also wanted a little more power so I went with the 9 psi pulley. I also figured it would be a perfect time to upgrade the injectors to 30lb. 
I think this weekend I'm going to try and extend the maf farther away from the charger inlet like this:
http://is.rely.net/2-31-41828-...w.jpg


----------



## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

*Re: (ZEBLOR)*

step 1 - what does the wideband say.
step 2 - if you're too broke to buy a $200 wideband, log the maf readings with a vag-com


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (TBT-Syncro)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TBT-Syncro* »_step 1 - what does the wideband say.
step 2 - if you're too broke to buy a $200 wideband, log the maf readings with a vag-com

Don't have a wideband. I work for a VW dealership so I have access to the scan tool at work.


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (TBT-Syncro)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TBT-Syncro* »_step 1 - what does the wideband say.
step 2 - if you're too broke to buy a $200 wideband, log the maf readings with a vag-com

What exactly will I be looking for here?


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: (ZEBLOR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ZEBLOR* »_What exactly will I be looking for here?

Where is your A/F ratio at?


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

*FV-QR*

Here's more pics of the intake setup, they are crappy cell phone pics but it's all I got right now. The tubing is 3.5inch metal reinforced neoprene ducting, easy to clamp, easy to work with, doesn't want to collapse.



















_Modified by KubotaPowered at 7:48 AM 2-24-2010_


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (vdubbed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubbed* »_
Where is your A/F ratio at? 

I have no idea. I don't have an AF gauge.


----------



## ZEBLOR (May 31, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (KubotaPowered)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KubotaPowered* »_Here's more pics of the intake setup, they are crappy cell phone pics but it's all I got right now. The tubing is 3.5inch metal reinforced neoprene ducting, easy to clamp, easy to work with, doesn't want to collapse.
















_Modified by KubotaPowered at 7:48 AM 2-24-2010_

Damn dude, doesn't your wheel hit the piping when you have your car on the ground? Seems like there is no room up there at all. 
BTW, where did you get your tubing?


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

*FV-QR*

The top of the tire is flush with the bottom of the fender and it does not rub. If you look from a side angle, the plumbing actually sits quite a bit above the bottom of the fender arch. I bought a 5 foot section of the ducting from Hosepower USA (national company) here in town for under 30 bucks, there is an 8 inch long, 3.5 inch diameter metal pipe that sits in the end of the hose. After that is a 3.5 inch to 4 inch silicone coupler to step up to the MAF. Just before the hose makes its turn into the charger inlet, there is another piece of pipe where the DV routes back into.


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (KubotaPowered)*

Is there room to play with on belts (if so, typically how much)? For instance if I order the correct belt for a 2.7" pulley would it also work for a 2.6" pulley? Thanks!


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

you can use the same belt.Thats not much smaller(belt wise) You have the pivot/tensioner. 
Now going from 3.14 to 2.5 , you could use a shorter belt. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubbed)*

I would imagine that within a half inch, you'll be ok. When you tension the belt, your outlet might be pointed slightly in the wrong direction, but you can loosen the t-bolt on the intake shell of the blower and spin it around to correct the alignment.
I am running a 53" belt currently, on a 2.7" pulley and will be running the same on my new 2.5" pulley. Of course I haven't verified it is correct yet, but I don't forsee and problems.
anyone feel free to correct my assumptions if they're totally off base.


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (obdONE)*

Anyone have a solid way or write up to get the pulley off of the charger without damaging the bearings inside? I've heard/read about several ways, which one is the best? Also does anybody know what size belt I need for a 2.7/2.6" pulley with A/C still installed on a B3/MKIII VR6? Thanks!


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubbed)*

use a pulley/bearing puller. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
like this:


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (.LSinLV.)*

If your pulley is seized onto the shaft, you might want to think about rubbing some grease in there (or on the shaft) after you get it off. There's no reason why it should be seized and shouldn't take any more effort than just pulling on it with your fingers to get it off.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

over time, different metals (Alum & steel) will tend to bond. Happens quite often on the MK4 strut bearing retainers & many other mixed metal applications. 
Def. a good idea to use some antiseize upon reassembly.
Mine was stuck as well, I used a puller, anti-seaize & its fine now. 


_Modified by CorradoMagic at 10:00 AM 2-26-2010_


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

Galvanic corrosion
_Modified by littlenr at 10:09 AM 2-26-2010_


_Modified by littlenr at 10:11 AM 2-26-2010_


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: (littlenr)*

Sounds good. Thanks! Any advice on the belt size with a 2.7/2.6 pulley with A/C?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Verdict Motorsport!!


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*

Thanks! But I don't have a shave A/C pulley. i need a double sided belt, i just need to know what length to buy.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubbed)*

i personally wouldn't put grease, no ox or anti seize on any of that pulley/shaft surface
i use a heat gun, maybe wipe some oil on the pulley to see if it's getting too hot, if it smokes, but the pulley will slide off easily
it'll take a few minutes to get it hot enough, especially in winter


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubbed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubbed* »_Thanks! But I don't have a shave A/C pulley. i need a double sided belt, i just need to know what length to buy.

Then go to VW, Napa, or other parts stores and order a Eurovan Vr belt. I think they are 56" inch belts. Not possitive on length.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

do go too hot if using a heat gun/torch. the outer rubber seal is the 1st place that will leak. You should probably replace that seal anyhow. They leak pretty easily enough.


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_
Then go to VW, Napa, or other parts stores and order a Eurovan Vr belt. I think they are 56" inch belts. Not possitive on length.

Will do! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

so, after my new motor install I am using my original C2 chip.
Before the swap, I had to leave the ISV unplugged but connected.
Now I have to to have plugged in & connected & it idles nicely. Wierd. Same chip, same car, new crate motor, different results from chip.


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

Well, I just removed my ISV tonight and plugged the holes really good, no leakage possible, and the car wont even start







CarradoMagic are you using your custom tune?


_Modified by vdubbed at 8:56 PM 2-27-2010_


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (vdubbed)*

dude, your car wont start BECAUSE you removed the ISV... there is no idle motor in an OBD1 throttle body. When you delete the ISV there is no air going into your TB, so no air in your engine, so no start. you have to pull the throttle cable so the throttle plate stays open a bit to allow air to bypass into the TB. take the little black nut off the throttle cable when its been pulled tight and move it to the new position on the throttle cable to keep it in place. you'll see what im talking about when you look at it.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (vdubbed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubbed* »_Well, I just removed my ISV tonight and plugged the holes really good, no leakage possible, and the car wont even start







CarradoMagic are you using your custom tune?

_Modified by vdubbed at 8:56 PM 2-27-2010_

Didn't McNair remove his ISV and have it idle better?


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

I went back to my 'kit chip' right now. Its so very consistent. it will settle, but then it dips low & sometimes stalls. 
hangs at 1500rpm, then 900ish (perfect), then dips to like 500, goes up, sometimes it statys, somes times it does the whole cycle over & over, somestimes it dips too low & stalls. 
This is with the ISV completely connected again. 
Since the ISV isnt air tight, some pll just disconnect the power & leave it plumbed. sometimes it works great(has for me)
If completely removed you can either adjust stop plate position to set idle or use a 1 way check valve. 
Inconsistency, even on the same cars w/ same mods or chips seems to be the real issue.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

isv's that need to be oiled will behave eradically 
the isv has a middle, or a set amount of air it lets through, even if it's unplugged
so the computer can add to or take away from idle air
while the car is running hot @ idle, disconnecting the isv should leave the idle entirely alone
if idle rpm goes down, then the isv was adding air, it it goes up, the isv was taking away idle air
once you have your idle tab (which i just bent on the vr cause the screw didn't have nearly enough adjustment alone) set, throw that aerated pos in the trash, i just oiled the one on my na
unless you can't figure out how to warm up your car without it or have ac
i start my obdi, & with my foot on the gas cold high rpm, i shut the key off, turn it back on with my foot off the gas, & it'll usually stay idling cold instantly, without having to restart it once
2 cent


----------



## slc92 (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

A properly operating ISV will work fine w/ a SC or turbo kit. These same isv's and routing are used on factory turbo cars and only have an issue when the valve has an issue.


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

http://www.alcohol-injection.c....html
Looking to get this meth kit,, is it a good kit ? I would like to some installed pictures, and size of reservoir tanks/location, I would really appreciate it thanks. btw does anyone run e85 with s/c on their v6, was wondering what would it take to run the fuel.


_Modified by BoostedTinCan at 4:11 PM 2-28-2010_


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: (BoostedTinCan)*

Got the ISV situation taken care of and the car is running STRONG. Slight idle flare but nothing crazy at all the highest it got today was 1100 rpm, low side was @ 500. I have a TT downpipe on the way and a wideband so I can keep an eye on the A/F's http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (BoostedTinCan)*

that meth kit is what i ran, loved it. worked great, but removed it when i intercooled. e85 reuires larger injectors, and standalone to properly tune for it. there may be 1 or 2 supercharged vr's running e85 this year.


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_
Then go to VW, Napa, or other parts stores and order a Eurovan Vr belt. I think they are 56" inch belts. Not possitive on length.

So I'm looking for any year VR6 Eurovan accessory belt?


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

96-04 VR6
models w. A/C = 1400mm


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_there may be 1 or 2 supercharged vr's running e85 this year.









this http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubbed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubbed* »_
So I'm looking for any year VR6 Eurovan accessory belt?

My car is a mk4 so I looked up a 2000 eurovan and used that belt. worked great on my v9 set up.


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*

with a/c & what size pulley? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Thanks for the help!


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubbed)*

I had Ac and 2.5 inch charger pulley for 12 psi. There was room to run a little larger charger pulley as well.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_there may be 1 or 2 supercharged vr's running e85 this year.









I would like to be number 3, but I'm focusing on just getting my tune sorted for now. Full tune comes Saturday!


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*

sounds good jamie!
the option is in the air, need to retune with the current setup, crack 11's, and debate what to do from there. cars fast as it is, dont know how much more ill need. wait....who am i kidding?!?!?!


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_I had Ac and 2.5 inch charger pulley for 12 psi. There was room to run a little larger charger pulley as well.

You are the man! Thanks for all the helpful info to everyone who contributes in this thread http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## docii (Apr 15, 2007)

MKIV R32 Question...
On a stage 2 vf kit what injectors and fuel pressure regulator is recommended? Also whats the difference on the ps pulley supplied from the stock one? Im sure the pulles the same for all mkiv vrs


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (docii)*


_Quote, originally posted by *docii* »_MKIV R32 Question...
On a stage 2 vf kit what injectors and fuel pressure regulator is recommended? 
 
R32 Stage 1 and 2 kits use the OEM fueling kit. As for recommended...I'm sure others will give their $0.02.


----------



## docii (Apr 15, 2007)

*Re: (Lew_Dog)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lew_Dog* »_ 
R32 Stage 1 and 2 kits use the OEM fueling kit. As for recommended...I'm sure others will give their $0.02.









I dont think that is true at least for the FPR i know thats deff different. Almost sure the injectors are too. Thanks tho


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (docii)*

I'll take that bet...


----------



## docii (Apr 15, 2007)

*Re: (Lew_Dog)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lew_Dog* »_I'll take that bet...









Ha i win!!! Just got off the phone with Sean from VF. He said the FPR is a 5 bar. But the injectors are stock so you win to lol


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

About to install my VF kit soon, I normally use 10w30 oil, non synthetic, the block has 250k miles on it, should I go slightly thicker ? What oils do you guys use, I'm also changing the spark plugs and wires, are OEM fine 7mm, btw running 8psi car has mk4 HG



_Modified by BoostedTinCan at 1:51 AM 3-3-2010_


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (BoostedTinCan)*

What stage are you going? What I was told, for every 100 HP increase, go a range colder on the plugs. I ran a 24v stage 2 on my gti which put down 280 whp (~315bhp), but I went 2 ranges colder. Copper work fine or use irridium. They cost more but last longer.
As for oil, you may want to make the change to synth. Especially with the mileage that's on the car. 
Good luck with your build. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by Lew_Dog at 12:27 PM 3-3-2010_


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: (Lew_Dog)*

Is the 2.9 manifold a good idea to run on a supercharged VR6? I was reading another post that stated that it is better to run the stock 2.8 manifold instead. Anyone have experience or knowledge on this?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (vdubbed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubbed* »_Is the 2.9 manifold a good idea to run on a supercharged VR6?

I would skip it, personally. If you are really interested in getting more power out of your blower (as opposed to eventually going turbo, etc) chances are you will at some point want to run a short runner manifold. If that is the case, well, all the money and time you spend on the 2.9 will be wasted when you put on the SRI. Just my $.02 though...


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

*Re: (Lew_Dog)*

I'm running stage II, and as far as oil, it's not good to switch to synthetic with high millage cars, kills the seals faster. Do you remember the plug model number , were they NGK ?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

ngk bkr7e is what I run. Gaped at .030"


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

NGK BKR6e is 1 stage colder
BKR7E is 2 stages colder. (for 12+ # only IMO)
A shorter gap is highly recommended as well. more like .025ish
Switching to synthetic does noting to the seals, what it does is 'clean' you engine of deposits/varnish/build up/crud etc. 
... Typically on an older motor, this will reveal the areas of leaks, dried gaskets and possibly even lower your compression #'s. 
If the motor is over 100K & never ran synth. I'd go semi- synth at most.


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

thanks I will be running 8psi, i will get NGK BKR6e
whats the best place to order them from ? I wonder if napa has them


_Modified by BoostedTinCan at 11:56 AM 3-3-2010_


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (BoostedTinCan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BoostedTinCan* »_I'm running stage II, and as far as oil, it's not good to switch to synthetic with high millage cars, kills the seals faster. Do you remember the plug model number , were they NGK ?

Its a pure myth that synthetic oil causes leaks in older engines. As far as the plugs go, you cannot reference them by BKR7Es anymore, the part number has changed to 4644


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

Looks like I found BKR6E's 
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volks...S8923/
wonder why in a set of 4


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (BoostedTinCan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BoostedTinCan* »_Looks like I found BKR6E's 
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volks...S8923/
wonder why in a set of 4

OEM 1.8t plugs


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

*Re: (littlenr)*

Volkswagen Golf IV VR6 12v
read up top, but it doesn't matter same plug, that will work, ill just get 2 sets


_Modified by BoostedTinCan at 12:30 PM 3-3-2010_


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (BoostedTinCan)*

http://www.sparkplugs.com/
Here is an online 15% off coupon (taken from Club Lexus







)
15ClubLex


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (BoostedTinCan)*

i didn't click the link. it was a guess. sets of 4 and the 6 heat range clicks in my head as a 1.8t.


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

*Re: (Lew_Dog)*

thanks but "We're sorry, the coupon code you entered has expired."


_Modified by BoostedTinCan at 12:38 PM 3-3-2010_


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (BoostedTinCan)*











_Modified by Lew_Dog at 11:48 AM 3-3-2010_


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

*Re: (Lew_Dog)*

it's ok, the set is like 17$ anyway.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

I get them from Napa for $3 each.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (BoostedTinCan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BoostedTinCan* »_About to install my VF kit soon, I normally use 10w30 oil, non synthetic, the block has 250k miles on it, should I go slightly thicker ? What oils do you guys use, I'm also changing the spark plugs and wires, are OEM fine 7mm, btw running 8psi car has mk4 HG

_Modified by BoostedTinCan at 1:51 AM 3-3-2010_

For all supercharger applications 15W-50(We run Mobil 1 or Lubro Moly), helps prevent premature bearing wear.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

see my sig. 
Synth oil doesnt CAUSE oil leaks, it exposes the existing conditions that would normally be leaking but instead are 'sealed' by build up/deposits/sludge etc from conventional oil. 
simply put, a synthetic engine is a cleaner engine.


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

I'm against synth i my car, but that is me, it's the strongest vr I've ever had at 250k miles on the bottom end, it doesn't even burn n ounce of oil, but I am going to try something thicker then 10w30


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
For all supercharger applications 15W-50(We run Mobil 1 or Lubro Moly), helps prevent premature bearing wear. 

Good to know! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif My car has had 15W50 in it from the day it was taken off the car lot, and it still does with the charger on it.


----------



## ubergolf441 (Mar 19, 2009)

Hey guys just wanna throw my setup on here im runin a v9 with a 12psi pulley 268 schick cams..atp turbo chip..bosal header..2.5" side exit exhaust..30lb injectors and a mk4 head gasket had it dynod last spring and it made 287hp


----------



## docii (Apr 15, 2007)

What one range cooler on NGK IZKR7B?
Thats my stock plug and i wanna go one cooler for my sc setup.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (ubergolf441)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ubergolf441* »_Hey guys just wanna throw my setup on here im runin a v9 with a 12psi pulley 268 schick cams..atp turbo chip..bosal header..2.5" side exit exhaust..30lb injectors and a mk4 head gasket had it dynod last spring and it made 287hp

Clean car and respectable numbers. Keep up the good work http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## onebdgti (Jan 13, 2006)

*Re: (docii)*

Just wondering has anybody put a V1 or V2 on a MKIV VR6. If so how tight of a fit is it.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (onebdgti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *onebdgti* »_Just wondering has anybody put a V1 or V2 on a MKIV VR6. If so how tight of a fit is it.

raises hand, V2 with a crank drive. tight yes, but doable
pics to come


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (onebdgti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *onebdgti* »_Just wondering has anybody put a V1 or V2 on a MKIV VR6. If so how tight of a fit is it.

Currently three that I know of.
Larry and Nate have auxiliary drive serpentine setups.
Evan has an auxiliary drive cogged setup.










_Modified by [email protected] at 6:26 PM 3-3-2010_


----------



## onebdgti (Jan 13, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Wow that a tight engine bay. So much for changing a headlight bulb.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*


----------



## onebdgti (Jan 13, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*

wow thats a seat setup. Me wanna do that to mine.


----------



## docii (Apr 15, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_









is that a heineken?


----------



## vdubstreets (Apr 26, 2004)

my guess it's a catch can.

_Quote, originally posted by *ubergolf441* »_Hey guys just wanna throw my setup on here im runin a v9 with a 12psi pulley 268 schick cams..atp turbo chip..bosal header..2.5" side exit exhaust..30lb injectors and a mk4 head gasket had it dynod last spring and it made 287hp


I like this setup, don't see to many ATP or that style maf setups.


_Modified by vdubstreets at 9:10 AM 3-4-2010_


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: (ubergolf441)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ubergolf441* »_Hey guys just wanna throw my setup on here im runin a v9 with a 12psi pulley 268 schick cams..atp turbo chip..bosal header..2.5" side exit exhaust..30lb injectors and a mk4 head gasket had it dynod last spring and it made 287hp

Nice car bro. Ive always really liked 4 door Golfs with a VR6 under the bonnet http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Especially with a charger on it! How long have you used the ATP turbo software? Run into any issues with it?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (docii)*

that is my coolant over flow can!


----------



## ubergolf441 (Mar 19, 2009)

*Re: (vdubbed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubstreets* »_I like this setup, don't see to many ATP or that style maf setups.

Yea the maf setup works flawlessly everyone told me it wouldnt work like that...i put the charger on and my CEL disapeared lol so yes the maf setup goes against everything everyone says but it works perfect!!!

_Quote, originally posted by *vdubbed* »_
Nice car bro. Ive always really liked 4 door Golfs with a VR6 under the bonnet http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Especially with a charger on it! How long have you used the ATP turbo software? Run into any issues with it?

ATP software has been used over a year and its the ****....its a self learning chip so it runs very rich when you first install it and it will slowly lean itself out for perfect mixture over the course of like 300 miles or so....i love it


----------



## vdubstreets (Apr 26, 2004)

*Re: (ubergolf441)*

I pmed you where you bought your silicone hoses?


----------



## ubergolf441 (Mar 19, 2009)

*Re: (vdubstreets)*

pm sent


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

anyone have a pic of a V1 during a rebuild?


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_anyone have a pic of a V1 during a rebuild?

I am rebuilding my V2 right now...it's getting ready to go back together....PM me for info. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_anyone have a pic of a V1 during a rebuild?

search Gtimagic, archived, FI forum, Install "" "" i have pics of the inside & seal replacement


----------



## vdubstreets (Apr 26, 2004)

does anyone have the PDF of the VF supercharge install? every link i see is broken


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (vdubstreets)*

Install PDF
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/312578...l.pdf 
MAF Clamp Wiring Diagram
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/312578...g.pdf 
Packing List (to dbl check you have all the parts)
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/312578...t.xls


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (.LSinLV.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.LSinLV.* »_
I am rebuilding my V2 right now...it's getting ready to go back together....PM me for info. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

PM sent!


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: (obdONE)*

Has anyone had an issue with the lower charge pipe piping off in the vf kit? Iv had to put the pipe back on 3 times this week. I'm useing a basic screw type clamp and I just started have the problem. I already replaced the clamp any idea of why it keeps doing this


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (flybye1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *flybye1* »_Has anyone had an issue with the lower charge pipe piping off in the vf kit? Iv had to put the pipe back on 3 times this week. I'm useing a basic screw type clamp and I just started have the problem. I already replaced the clamp any idea of why it keeps doing this


Get rid of the worm clamp. Get your self a a T-bolt clamp. You can get them tighter!! Problem solved.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_

Get rid of the worm clamp. Get your self a a T-bolt clamp. You can get them tighter!! Problem solved.


X2 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

Thanks guys


----------



## vdubstreets (Apr 26, 2004)

*Re: (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_ Install PDF
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/312578...l.pdf 
MAF Clamp Wiring Diagram
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/312578...g.pdf 
Packing List (to dbl check you have all the parts)
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/312578...t.xls 

you sir are the man. http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif 

As for the other guy, constant velocity clamps are the best, thats what I have on my audi. I've had problems with t clamps breaking so many times.


----------



## docii (Apr 15, 2007)

Cant hurt to put two on if you can fit it. Anything but a hose clamp http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by docii at 7:26 PM 3-6-2010_


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (docii)*

what are you guys using for mustang vs dynojet number correction? 12%?


----------



## docii (Apr 15, 2007)

mustang i believe is more accurate but is less whp or so im told, my buddy says (that works with a mustang) a mustangs dyno puts a true load of the car so therefor giving it a more accurate reading for a FI car and a better tune. the difference in whp is about 10 to 15 % less on a mustang http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by docii at 9:40 PM 3-6-2010_


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*Re: (flybye1)*

agreed with all others, I had that problem with mine too until I got t-bolt clamps. Hasn't popped since then. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Another 300 club member!*

Someone call Hover, we need an update to page 1 (assuming those dynoing on Mustang Dynos are adding 12% to their results to get DynoJet numbers)








My Setup:
1995 VR6, completely stock internals
MegaSquirt V3.57
Vortech V9-F, custom 2.5" pulley (seeing 11psi max)
custom top mount intercooler
juan8595 SRI
42# green top injectors
Bosal ceramic headers
custom 2.5" SS cat-back
stock cat
custom cold air intake with air damn

268whp / 226wtq on Mustang Dyno @ 6500rpm and 10.6psi
assuming 12% increase to get DynoJet numbers puts me at 300.16whp!

_Modified by obdONE at 2:38 PM 3-8-2010_


_Modified by obdONE at 2:39 PM 3-8-2010_


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: Another 300 club member! (obdONE)*

my tune still has a ways to go. The top end is brilliant, but my part-throttle is a bit wonky still. between 1200 and 2500rpm, you REALLY don't want to be at part-throttle. Big hiccups.
We heard a bit of a misfire somewhere in there (didn't have time to track it down) so we pulled 2* of timing at the end of the night, just to be safe. I probably have bad compression in 1 cylinder, so next up is a compression and leak-down test.
If I do need a rebuild, that will have to wait a bit. It is still F_CKING fast at WOT!
Thanks to everyone's help getting me where I am right now: Noah and Phil, Mike, corradomagic, and everyone else.























oh, and here's some pics of the custom cold air intake i had made. It kept the IATs at about 109* while tuning. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

*FV-QR*

nice intake setup!.....


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

I hope that's not a daily driver. I'd be scared with that intake around here


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: Another 300 club member! (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_Someone call Hover, we need an update to page 1 (assuming those dynoing on Mustang Dynos are adding 12% to their results to get DynoJet numbers)
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/312578...0.jpg
My Setup:
1995 VR6, completely stock internals
MegaSquirt V3.57
Vortech V9-F, custom 2.5" pulley (seeing 11psi max)
custom top mount intercooler
juan8595 SRI
42# green top injectors
Bosal ceramic headers
custom 2.5" SS cat-back
stock cat
custom cold air intake with air damn

268whp / 226wtq on Mustang Dyno @ 6500rpm and 10.6psi
assuming 12% increase to get DynoJet numbers puts me at 300.16whp!

Nice Jamie, time you did some cams to make that 300whp on the Mustang


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: Another 300 club member! ([email protected])*

all of the cnc parts showed up friday. I'll be installing the coolant parts this week!!


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: Another 300 club member! ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Nice Jamie, time you did some cams to make that 300whp on the Mustang









ok, so there's my question. On page 1, the people on there with Mustang dynos that are over 300whp, are those corrected to match DynoJet, or are they actual Mustang numbers?
so like SUPERCHARGED-JETTA ran 301.7 on a mustang. is that really 301.7 as ran on the mustang, or is it 269.38 + 12% = 301.7???
cause 301.7 on a mustang would then be 337.9 on a DynoJet.
I just want to know if I actually deserve to be in the 300 club, or if I'm just a chump









Oh, and Noah, non-stock cams will never find a home in my head. If I do any other mod to my current setup to get more power, it will ONLY be a 9:1 and a re-tune. After that, if I want more, it's turbo time.
look at it this way (if I do indeed deserve to be in the 300 club right now) I'm the only guy on that list that made it there with a completely stock block and a v9







(I think)


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: Another 300 club member! (obdONE)*

congrats on the numbers jamie. sam(supercharged jetta) claims slightly over 350whp, so his 301 or whatever must be mustang numbers. 
its hard to compare dynos, everyone assumes and calculates. power is power, if you enjoy it, http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif to you.
i doubt youll ever need to lower compression, as i ran a mk4 hg for a while on 12psi without issues with my v1.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: Another 300 club member! (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_congrats on the numbers jamie. sam(supercharged jetta) claims slightly over 350whp, so his 301 or whatever must be mustang numbers.

hmmm, well see? that makes me feel like a chump then and not really worthy of being part of the "club". Although, if I went and dynoed on a DynoJet and went over 300, well, I would fell like I deserved it, so I don't know...
*I'll put it at the mercy of the public. what do you guys think, yay or nay?*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_i doubt youll ever need to lower compression, as i ran a mk4 hg for a while on 12psi without issues with my v1.

well, I did have a slight knock though, which is why we dialed back 2* of timing at the end of the night. So, if I really want to push my setup to its max, the way it is currently, I will have to lower compression.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: Another 300 club member! (obdONE)*

The Mustang #'s and Dyno Dynamic #'s are raw non-adjusted. Dyno Dynamics tend to read 10-15whp lower than Mustangs, some times a lot more in certain cases.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: Another 300 club member! ([email protected])*

I say for simplicity sake 300 is 300 regardless of the dyno. 
Sure DynoJets read higher then Mustangs and Mustangs higher then Dyno Dynamics, but listing the type of dyno with the numbers is a good basis to go off of for reference sake.
We <3 you Jamie, its ok.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: Another 300 club member! ([email protected])*

haha, no worries Phil. I already changed my sig to read 268whp http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I agree with you though, it would be too difficult to track all that crap. I just wanted to see my name there on the first page








I'll just have to do like Noah said, and get that 300whp slip from the Mustang


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: Another 300 club member! (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_haha, no worries Phil. I already changed my sig to read 268whp http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I agree with you though, it would be too difficult to track all that crap. I just wanted to see my name there on the first page








I'll just have to do like Noah said, and get that 300whp slip from the Mustang









In an ideal world we would all get together and get our readings from the same dyno on the same day, but thats unlikely to happen. Some dynos are more accurate then others and can all depend on the operator using it.
Heres an example:
One of our customers dyno'd his S4 at KTR (Dyno Dynamics/AKA "the heart breaker") and made 417whp on his race profile.
A week later he dyno'd at Waterfest (DynoJet) and made 476whp with the same tune.
Hmm...


----------



## mim (Mar 2, 2003)

Nice numbers jamie, wish I could be close to that with my v9 and as clean as yours. best regards from another texan fellow.


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: Another 300 club member! (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_congrats on the numbers jamie. sam(supercharged jetta) claims slightly over 350whp, so his 301 or whatever must be mustang numbers. 
its hard to compare dynos, everyone assumes and calculates. power is power, if you enjoy it, http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif to you.
i doubt youll ever need to lower compression, as i ran a mk4 hg for a while on 12psi without issues with my v1.

Hey all, I ran 305 on the mustang dyno and yes the dyno fig are correct 305/.85 358whp dynojet. They did a supra the other day mustang dynoed 730 while the dynojet spun 860 same boost same car period. Im going standalone this year and a fresher motor last one had 200,000 miles on the clock







Im shooting for 350 to 365 on the mustang dyno wish me luck http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (mim)*

heres an updated pic of the water meth install. bracket for the pump= done. everything is truck bed coated


----------



## SUPERCHARGED-JETTA (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: Another 300 club member! (SUPERCHARGED-JETTA)*

Here is the dyno at cft








http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FqqC9bwh2LI


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (mim)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mim* »_Nice numbers jamie, wish I could be close to that with my v9 and as clean as yours. best regards from another texan fellow.

thanks man!

_Quote, originally posted by *SUPERCHARGED-JETTA* »_I ran 305 on the mustang dyno and yes the dyno fig are correct 305/.85 358whp dynojet.

hmmmmm by that ratio, I ran 315whp - 268/.85 = 315.29









_Quote, originally posted by *SUPERCHARGED-JETTA* »_Im going standalone this year and a fresher motor last one had 200,000 miles on the clock







Im shooting for 350 to 365 on the mustang dyno wish me luck http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

good luck! and nice video!


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

soon enough I'll make it to a dyno. In the past my car has been scared of them.....


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*

Going to be taking the charger off and putting a smaller pulley and belt on tonight. Any pointer or anything I need to watch out for? I didn't install this charger the PO did http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Thanks for the help.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubbed)*

pretty straight forwards. Just pay attention to the route of the belt, so that when you put it back on everything runs correctly.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubbed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubbed* »_Going to be taking the charger off and putting a smaller pulley and belt on tonight. Any pointer or anything I need to watch out for?

nothing in particular. Main thing is to be careful with taking the pulley off; you don't want to damage it. I use an electric impact gun to take the nut off mine, which probably isn't the best way to go (concerning the bearings) but it's been fine so far.
If the pulley is seized onto the shaft, you will need to get a puller to take it off with.
The bolt on the outside of the charger bracket (close to the fuel rail) is a bitch to get to and is a long and tedious process to remove with a standard box wrench. I would suggest getting a ratcheting box wrench for it if you don't already have one. It's a 19mm bolt.
Use some blue thread lock on those 2 bracket bolts when you mount the blower up again.
When you have re-installed the blower you will use a pry bar to tension the belt. stick it in under the bracket mount on the blower iteself and pry on it to tension the belt. Then while it's tensioned, tighten the bracket bolt and voila!
you can also look at those PDF instructions from VF that I posted in the last page if you have any questions. It has pictures and stuff.










_Modified by obdONE at 2:48 PM 3-9-2010_


----------



## vdubstreets (Apr 26, 2004)

where is everyone buying thier smaller pulleys from


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (vdubstreets)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubstreets* »_where is everyone buying thier smaller pulleys from

what size are you looking for?


----------



## vdubstreets (Apr 26, 2004)

I'm thinking a 2.7"


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (vdubstreets)*

How about a custom 2.75" pulley?








PMd you http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: (obdONE)*

Do I need to apply tension when taking the two larger bolts off? Does it matter which bolt comes off first?


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (vdubbed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubbed* »_Do I need to apply tension when taking the two larger bolts off? Does it matter which bolt comes off first?

what bolts are you talking about?


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

The 2 19mm bolts one that is on the slider to tension the belt, and the other bolt that comes from the head side of the motor. Hopefully that helps instead of hurts.


----------



## mim (Mar 2, 2003)

Jamie I send you a pm regarding the 2.75 pulley?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (vdubbed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mim* »_Jamie I send you a pm regarding the 2.75 pulley?

PMd you back http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

_Quote, originally posted by *vdubbed* »_The 2 19mm bolts one that is on the slider to tension the belt, and the other bolt that comes from the head side of the motor. Hopefully that helps instead of hurts.

how's it coming?


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: (obdONE)*

I cant get the pulley bolt off even with a 2 ft breaker bar


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (vdubbed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubbed* »_I cant get the pulley bolt off even with a 2 ft breaker bar









impact wrench, brother.


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: (obdONE)*

I have a 24v cordless impact, im just really reluctant to use it.


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: (vdubbed)*

The Impact got it, no problems at all. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (vdubbed)*

woot! now go make some boost!


----------



## burnite2 (Jan 14, 2009)

hey guys, i have a 12v vr6 in a mk2 gli with a v9 with the 6psi pulley and looking into stage 2 and autotech 262 cams. i just did a compression test on it and heres what i got. 
#1 115psi 
#2 125psi
#3 120psi
#4 125psi
#5 117psi
#6 125psi
the motor was not up to temp, it maybe ran for 10 min. before doing the test. its a stock AAA motor, except for a 2.9 clone mani, ported TB, tt technonic 2.25 cat back and test pipe. what kind of results can i expect or should i just wait to rebuilt before i upgrade. thanks for all the help in addvance. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by burnite2 at 6:19 PM 3-10-2010_


_Modified by burnite2 at 6:48 PM 3-10-2010_


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (burnite2)*

/\ are those #'s with a stock head gasket???
if so, then the engine should be up to operaitng temp....because those #'s are low, and I would not put FI on a motor with #'s that low from stock.


----------



## burnite2 (Jan 14, 2009)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

as far as i know its a stock head gasket, and the motor was not up to opperating temp it was at idle for about 5-10mins before doing the test.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (burnite2)*

then make sure to validate the compression with the engine at operaing temp


----------



## burnite2 (Jan 14, 2009)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (burnite2)*

amost done with the install
now you see it








now you dont


----------



## WeeZFan69 (Aug 3, 2003)

*Re: (mk4vrjtta)*

I just bought one of these and I'm going to fit it to my VR. In not sure how to figure out how much boooost its going to make though.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (WeeZFan69)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WeeZFan69* »_I just bought one of these and I'm going to fit it to my VR. In not sure how to figure out how much boooost its going to make though.









Figure out how much CFM its makes first. And what Rpm of the pulley it takes to obtain the cfm. then you can figure it out.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (WeeZFan69)*

someone should have def deleloped a kit with the m90 or some type of roots blower. it would have fit the vr's character very well. there was a guy that ran one on his jetta wagon. i believe it ran high 12's http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Flyweight (Jan 15, 2007)

The above charger looks like an M62. I think an M90 would be better suited to a VR. 
If only someone would make brackets for the M90 that fit into a MK2...
Honda guys are starting to do it. ..why not us?
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1997913


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (Flyweight)*

theres a passat with a m90 iirc. its an OLD kit, and was never really produced. should be posted somewhere in this thread. its def doable, esp now since we have many more options and companies we can go to for some support.
btw, new best last night, nothing major or serious, but its something. im on a somewhat fresh motor(better compression #s, thats about it), less boost and untuned for how the car sits. went 12.0 @ 113mph


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_went 12.0 @ 113mph

F_CK YEAH! Just one more tenth of a second faster Mike!


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_ went 12.0 @ 113mph

Congrats http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

sounds fun!


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-THROTTLE-* »_theres a passat with a m90 iirc. its an OLD kit, and was never really produced. should be posted somewhere in this thread. its def doable, esp now since we have many more options and companies we can go to for some support.


It's not for a VR, PES did a Roots kit for the 2.8 30v V6 Passat. It's still in production, but I'm not sure if the blower is a M90.








I know which kit you are talking about for the older VR Passats.

_Modified by Lew_Dog at 12:28 PM 3-11-2010_


_Modified by Lew_Dog at 12:38 PM 3-11-2010_


----------



## vdubstreets (Apr 26, 2004)

i know a couple people that ran a PES's kits on their audi's


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (vdubstreets)*

Found the pics here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3550025


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

Congrats again man. The 11's will happen. Can't complain about a number of low 12 second runs and driving home though.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: (vw1320)*

the picture above, passat wagon, thats the one i meant!
matt, def cant complain. 100% streetable still! we will find that 11 second pass very soon


----------



## BlueMk3VR6 (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (-THROTTLE-)*

congrats Mike.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

Finally rebuilt the charger on the R32







. Now i just need to find the money and motivation to get the cabriolet done


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

so what do you guys think about this issue.
I'm running a v1 t-trim with a 5.5" crank pulley and a 2.5" charger pulley. That puts the charger at 54k impeller rpms. Not worried about that. What my question at hand is what injectors do I need to support the air flow. I was thinking that 42# injectors should be enough, but others are telling me 60# injectors are needed. Input?


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: (websaabn)*

Anyone have any pointers on installing the MAF clamp with the VF STAGE 2 kit? Like where do I connect to the "black" on the ECU? And the black wire that is currently connected to the MAF just gets disconnect and left undone when I connect the MAF clamp to it? I love working on cars I just stay clear of wiring. I know I know, there are only 4 wires here







Thanks for the help.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (vdubbed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubbed* »_Anyone have any pointers on installing the MAF clamp with the VF STAGE 2 kit? Like where do I connect to the "black" on the ECU? And the black wire that is currently connected to the MAF just gets disconnect and left undone when I connect the MAF clamp to it? I love working on cars I just stay clear of wiring. I know I know, there are only 4 wires here







Thanks for the help.


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_MAF Clamp Wiring Diagram
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/312578...g.pdf


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: (obdONE)*

Thanks but Ive looked at it 100 times still doesn't quite make sense.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*









Verdict's 2ndary radiator delete!!


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*










any the new expansion tank.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_so what do you guys think about this issue.
I'm running a v1 t-trim with a 5.5" crank pulley and a 2.5" charger pulley. That puts the charger at 54k impeller rpms. Not worried about that. What my question at hand is what injectors do I need to support the air flow. I was thinking that 42# injectors should be enough, but others are telling me 60# injectors are needed. Input?

what SW are you running??? how big is the MAF housing??? 
I am running my V2 T trim (same CFM's/flow as your V1T) with #44's and they are TOO BIG...but with a 3bar FPR and tweeks via Lemmiwinks I am able to get the A/F's into a good range.....if anything I would think those injectors with a 4 bar FPR and the right SW and you'd be golden.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (.LSinLV.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.LSinLV.* »_
what SW are you running??? how big is the MAF housing??? 
I am running my V2 T trim (same CFM's/flow as your V1T) with #44's and they are TOO BIG...but with a 3bar FPR and tweeks via Lemmiwinks I am able to get the A/F's into a good range.....if anything I would think those injectors with a 4 bar FPR and the right SW and you'd be golden.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


C2 software with the 4" housing.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

Looks good Nate http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (.LSinLV.)*

now I just need to source the green tops.


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: (vdubbed)*

Where can I connect to the "black" on the ECU? And the black wire that is currently connected to the MAF just gets disconnect and left undone when I connect the MAF clamp to it?
I did not actually install this kit & its been a few years since I've installed a charger on a VR6. TIA!


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_now I just need to source the green tops.

cts turbo has them for the best price i've seen.


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: (vdubbed)*

I sometimes make things harder than they actually are, this is one of those times. I got it...










_Modified by vdubbed at 6:52 AM 3-13-2010_


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

Started to install my Stage II today, i took my ecu out to install the obd1 c2 chip, it can go in 2 ways, does it matter which way , as long as all the pins are in ?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (BoostedTinCan)*

you'll soon find out that it does (if you haven't already). It only works one way. Look on the chip and there is a little half moon shape cut out of one end. Now look on the encryption board. You will see a little mark on one side lining up with the cut out in the chip. Those have to be aligned in order for it to work. Best bet though, if your car doesn't fire, it's in wrong, so give it another go.


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

*Re: (obdONE)*

thank you sir, the SC installation is far from done, the ecu is apart, i will check it out tomorrow.


----------



## burnite2 (Jan 14, 2009)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

got time to do another compression test, this time with the motor up to temp. 
#1 135
#2 145
#3 135
#4 145
#5 140
#6 145
looks better than the last test, but is it go enough to upgrade to more boost. stock bottom end and mk III head gasket.


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

Installing my VF Stage II on a corrado, day 2, drilled hole in the block, drain is done , injectors are in, charger was bolt up to test fit, wow, had to cut out a lot of my inner fender out to fit the intake pipe with the charger, there was absolutely no way it was anywhere near close of making it fit without touching the fender, I had no idea, maybe i was provided with mk3 pipe and its different ?.. tomorrow its time to relocated the charcoal canister any suggestions ?


_Modified by BoostedTinCan at 8:38 PM 3-13-2010_


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (BoostedTinCan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BoostedTinCan* »_Installing my VF Stage II on a corrado, day 2, drilled hole in the block, drain is done , injectors are in, charger was bolt up to test fit, wow, had to cut out a lot of my inner fender out to fit the intake pipe with the charger, there was absolutely no way it was anywhere near close of making it fit without touching the fender, I had no idea, maybe i was provided with mk3 pipe and its different ?.. tomorrow its time to relocated the charcoal canister any suggestions ?

_Modified by BoostedTinCan at 8:38 PM 3-13-2010_

You can get it to fit without cutting but it makes it the most hellish job in the world when ever you need to pull the inlet or charger off. Cutting makes it easy to service as well as without cutting it tends to catch the piping occasionally and pulls the charger down causing the belt to loosen. 
The shock tower is another clearance issue area. You can take a heat gun to the charge piping carefully to slightly re-mold it for more clearance. 
Process:
1. Heat up the desired area
2. Use a wet towel to push the pipe in slightly and hold in the desired spot. The wet towel will then cool the plastic into the desired position. I can try and find some pics of my old plastic charge pipe if you need a reference. 
***Note that the plastic when heated can burn the crap out of your fingers if you touch it bare handed. So dont try doing this without a wet towel as it hurts like hell







***
Best of luck


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*

My shock tower area is fine, just the intake area i had to cut out a big hole,i preserved it so it wouldn't rust and did molding, my question is what do i do with the pipe coming out from the idle control valve that used to hook up to a 90 degree at intake pipe. The new VF pipe doesn't have a fitting on therefor it, what can I do with it, and one last question, I was given a check valve, the instructions are for mk3, I've installed that check valve in the hose that comes out the TB and goes down to the blue sensor near the char coal canister lines.... does anyone have any input about that check valve, whats it for, do I need it. Thanks alot for any advice/reply




_Modified by BoostedTinCan at 9:42 PM 3-14-2010_


----------



## redvr6sc (Feb 10, 2010)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (obdONE)*

i went to the dyno and made 260 whp and 218 wtq.i got the car running excellent by using bosch f6dtc plugs and 4.5 bar fpr and deleting the isv but keep the electrical connection on it.using the c2 tune it is running real smooth.props go out to c2.air fuel ratio at WOT is from 12.5 to 11.5 all the way to 7000rpm redline.


----------



## Flyweight (Jan 15, 2007)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (redvr6sc)*


_Quote, originally posted by *redvr6sc* »_i went to the dyno and made 260 whp and 218 wtq.i got the car running excellent by using bosch f6dtc plugs and 4.5 bar fpr and deleting the isv but keep the electrical connection on it.using the c2 tune it is running real smooth.props go out to c2.air fuel ratio at WOT is from 12.5 to 11.5 all the way to 7000rpm redline.









Congrats on the excellent numbers. 
Are you running a V1 or V9? What pulley size are you running? Exhaust set up? Any other supporting mods?
Well done. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (Flyweight)*

FYI - my upgrades/clean-up are nearly done.....had I taken pics of the crap that VF pulled with my car, you'd all be shocked.
the quality of their "R&D" is non-apparent, and the sheer quantity of modifications required to get this car to be a DD again has been staggering. I've spent over $250 (wholesale cost) just in AN fittings and hose alone.....AFTER removing the SAI and other various and sundered items.
We modified the Schimmel SRIM (I know but it was already bought years ago), with all AN fittings, relocating the P/S reservoir that VF relocated (what a joke), and well, I'm thinking of relocating/routing the intake....but nothing is final yet.....I will take pics of the work when done....and post up more as to the final content of the kit/mods.; as well as a new Dyno.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: *The unofficial VR superchaged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera (.LSinLV.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.LSinLV.* »_ *I've spent over $250 (wholesale cost) just in AN fittings and hose alone....*.


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

I finished my SC install, don't know what to do with my idle control valve, as I have no fitting on the new intake pipe to connect it to, the car wont stay on with it plugged, so I've connected it to the breather hose for now, so it runs by its self, should I just "T" it with the breather hose, or what is the proper way you guys eliminate the valve on SC vr's thanks for any input


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (BoostedTinCan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BoostedTinCan* »_I finished my SC install, don't know what to do with my idle control valve, as I have no fitting on the new intake pipe to connect it to, the car wont stay on with it plugged, so I've connected it to the breather hose for now, so it runs by its self, should I just "T" it with the breather hose, or what is the proper way you guys eliminate the valve on SC vr's thanks for any input

You can cut a piece of the ISV tubing that goes to the manifold and plug that with it attached. Then adjust the TB jack screw to set the idle. 
You can also take the manifold to someone that can tig weld Aluminum and have them drill out the fitting in there and weld a plug flush in the manifold and then set the idle using the jack screw as above. 
I opted for the later when I was running the stock manifold.


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Anyone know the specs on the upper bolt that holds the V9 charger to the bracket on a MKIII? I unfortunately messed up the first couple threads when re-installing my charger tonight.


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: (vdubbed)*

wrong forum


_Modified by vdubbed at 6:54 PM 3-16-2010_


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

FInished the install, routed the idle control valve back before the catch can that was provided form VF, waiting for my front motor mount to come in, so i didnt realy test the power, plus they say 300-400 miles of break in period. But crusing around , is almost perfect, no hick ups, no crazy idle, sometimes it falls tad to low, but its rare. When it's cold its bit high but it stables its self. This is obd1 dizzy, c2 software Stage II. So far good. I do not like the fact that my intake sits lower then my lip on my bumper!, I Will have to route it some place, it's to scary that low. 


_Modified by BoostedTinCan at 12:49 AM 3-17-2010_


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: (BoostedTinCan)*

Sounds good http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Keep us updated on the progress.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

what are the best all around plug wires to use with the VR? I've replaced three oem wires in the last month. I'm thinking about getting an aftermarket set. Any recommendations?


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*

the oem bosch are junk. I wont even sell them! they arch with high humudity LOL
I personally run Neuspeed, have had Autotouch & sell a lot of Karlyn/STI http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_the oem bosch are junk. I wont even sell them! they arch with high humudity LOL
I personally run Neuspeed, have had Autotouch & sell a lot of Karlyn/STI http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

really?? I've been running OEM Bosch since the car was new....and in 10 years I am only on my 2nd set from the originals.....I thought the high heat in the desert would have killed them quicker....for the $$ I have found them to be more than adequate.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

the dessert probably helps. Its dry. I have seen a lot of issues in my area. northeast. (wet/humid, damp winters, etc) 
Thats just my opinion on these though. I think there are much better alternative, most les$ too. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

pm sent!


----------



## karlorado (Nov 13, 2008)

This what I have (for now, 3.4 long block to be installed this spring) pretty self explanitory. Yes I know, the manilofd valve is not connected to vacuum at this time. PM if you have questions.


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

hey guys. i have been working with vf to get my charger to a stage 3 from the stage 2 for my 93 corrado v9 charger. after a month plus of not getting the the 2.25" pulley with the rest of my order, i am finally told that it has been discontinued. so anybody in here have any pulley info or leadsto get a 2.25" pulley? i have also called vortec and they do not have any as well. this hunt started in november and just moments ago sean at vf disclosed the information that they do not have the pulley any more. this is after sending the money to get it in late january. he only has a 2.4" pulley that he is going to send, but i still want the 2.25". boy this stuff makes a guy want to throttle somebody......

_Modified by angelod307 at 3:24 PM 3-17-2010_


_Modified by angelod307 at 3:26 PM 3-17-2010_


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

My only issue is the car stalls sometimes, not too often, usually when coming off the highway while throwing it in neutral, other then that its pretty smooth all over


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (BoostedTinCan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BoostedTinCan* »_My only issue is the car stalls sometimes, not too often, usually when coming off the highway while throwing it in neutral, other then that its pretty smooth all over

good luck with that







sounds like just the beginning of C2 software shenanigans... I hope it's not though, for your sake.


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (BoostedTinCan)*

i'd personally unplug the ISV while it's idleing hot, if the idle drops when you unplug it, i'd add some idle tab or screw @ the TB, since you're low on vac....till it idles the same when unplugged hot. 
i'd also try plugging it back in a few times since the ecu will use timing to bring the idle up when it looses ISV, to get the idle screw adjusted right.
or you could blame c2 for your 300,xxx additional idle load with no idle air changes
glad to hear it's running


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

Yeah, you're right, I shouldn't blame c2 at all. Because I didn't do what you suggested, what chris suggested, what Jeff suggested, I didn't adjust my set screw, I didn't pull my throttle cable to allow more air to bypass, I didn't change out every sensor on my engine, I didn't unplug the isv, delete the isv, bypass the isv, have AN fittings made for the isv, plug the isv back in but leave it unwired, unplug the isv but leave it wired, and I didn't ever find a solution to my idle problems...
Oh wait, there was that whole thing where I ditched C2, installed MegaSquirt and never had another single problem with idle or my engine since


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

unplugged the isv, idles fine, but it takes 2-3 seconds longer of cranking to star the car


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

hey guys, so i finally got my v2 charger installed. so far, i am somewhat please, after all the headache ive had trying to get it installed. not gonna go into that now, haha. ive got the v2 with a single idler pulley and finally got the right 7-rib belt on there, however i believe i have a 2.5" pulley on there, and no matter how much tension i put on it, im getting belt slip, only hit 6psi. so i wanna drop down to like a 2.75" pulley, but im having a hard time finding a 7-rib. does anyone have a 7 rib for sale or know where i can find one? or should i just find an 8-rib? because if i go 8 rib, then im gonna have to find a fuel rain that doesnt stick out passed the intake mani because of clearance issues. any input would help!!


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

300-400 mile break in ? I've done 60 miles on it, never heard of breaking in turbos, would think blowers are same, guess I'm wrong


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *black 86 rocco* »_hey guys, so i finally got my v2 charger installed. so far, i am somewhat please, after all the headache ive had trying to get it installed. not gonna go into that now, haha. ive got the v2 with a single idler pulley and finally got the right 7-rib belt on there, however i believe i have a 2.5" pulley on there, and no matter how much tension i put on it, im getting belt slip, only hit 6psi. so i wanna drop down to like a 2.75" pulley, but im having a hard time finding a 7-rib. does anyone have a 7 rib for sale or know where i can find one? or should i just find an 8-rib? because if i go 8 rib, then im gonna have to find a fuel rain that doesnt stick out passed the intake mani because of clearance issues. any input would help!!


doh, i have a v9 2.7 pulley for sale soon.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *black 86 rocco* »_hey guys, so i finally got my v2 charger installed. so far, i am somewhat please, after all the headache ive had trying to get it installed. not gonna go into that now, haha. ive got the v2 with a single idler pulley and finally got the right 7-rib belt on there, however i believe i have a 2.5" pulley on there, and no matter how much tension i put on it, im getting belt slip, only hit 6psi. so i wanna drop down to like a 2.75" pulley, but im having a hard time finding a 7-rib. does anyone have a 7 rib for sale or know where i can find one? or should i just find an 8-rib? because if i go 8 rib, then im gonna have to find a fuel rain that doesnt stick out passed the intake mani because of clearance issues. any input would help!!

for the belt just get an 8 ribbed and cut a rib off. you ahould be able to find any size you want. ive been doing it ever since i got my blower and theres been no problem http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

I put a new charger belt on lastnight and today I blew it appart. Guess something was out of line that I couldn't tell at idle.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (vdubbed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubbed* »_Anyone know the specs on the upper bolt that holds the V9 charger to the bracket on a MKIII? I unfortunately messed up the first couple threads when re-installing my charger tonight. 

The VF charger bracket -> Head bracket bolts are 1/2-20 x 1.25 long

_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_what are the best all around plug wires to use with the VR? I've replaced three oem wires in the last month. I'm thinking about getting an aftermarket set. Any recommendations? 

We run STI

_Quote, originally posted by *angelod307* »_hey guys. i have been working with vf to get my charger to a stage 3 from the stage 2 for my 93 corrado v9 charger. after a month plus of not getting the the 2.25" pulley with the rest of my order, i am finally told that it has been discontinued. so anybody in here have any pulley info or leadsto get a 2.25" pulley? i have also called vortec and they do not have any as well. this hunt started in november and just moments ago sean at vf disclosed the information that they do not have the pulley any more. this is after sending the money to get it in late january. he only has a 2.4" pulley that he is going to send, but i still want the 2.25". boy this stuff makes a guy want to throttle somebody......


2.5" pulley will get you ~11-12psi (over spinning the V9) 2.25 is just way too small. 2.5" is spinning 6k over max, 2.25" is spinning 1500rpm over max.


----------



## black 86 rocco (Dec 13, 2006)

ive read that with the AMS kit you have to shave down the ribs on the ac pulley. now if you dont do that, will you run into belt slip?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (black 86 rocco)*

As far as I know, it doesn't have anything to do with the brackets, but rather the belt. If you're running a double sided belt you should be fine. If single sided, the problem is the grooves on the ac pulley will cut into the belt leading to premature wear. So, not an issue of belt slip so much as belt wear.


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

*Re: ([email protected])*

2.5" pulley will get you ~11-12psi (over spinning the V9) 2.25 is just way too small. 2.5" is spinning 6k over max, 2.25" is spinning 1500rpm over max. 
[/QUOTE]

ok. then i am just a little confused by sean at vf. i was told that the 2.25 was the stage three pulley. he is sending me a 2.4 inch. now there is the vortexer from earleir in this thread that wants to swap a v2 pulley 2.5 for the stage 2 pulley that is on the v9, i was told they are not the same size, are they? i was told by sean that the pulley that i have is a 2.7 inch pulley. my whole problem is that i want to hit the 8 psi with having to go to 7k rpm's plus to do it. most of the time now i only see 6 psi and i have the belt pretty tight, so i think it is due to the belt slipping, because on occation, it does 7-8psi. when i talked to vortec, the guy there said that the belt slip is a required evil to help keep the bearings from wearing out prematurely. thank you noah. angelo.


_Modified by angelod307 at 2:42 PM 3-20-2010_


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

Smaller pulleys are supposed to produce more boost. However, They mostly just slip but can provide more boost sooner. The v9 overspins faster than a v1/2 but the are also less mass to cause slip.


----------



## docii (Apr 15, 2007)

almost done with my sc install. i ended up tapping my pan. anyone think this may be a problem? i have a mkiv r32.
how much pressure pushes the oil down the drain line or is it all just gravity. my drain line is right on the center of my full line. im a bit concerned. 


















_Modified by docii at 4:11 AM 3-21-2010_


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (docii)*

I ran a tapped pan on my 2.8 24v Stage 2 kit. You will need to run a little less oil to prevent oil from backing up the return line. I think I ran a half quart less and had no issues.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (Lew_Dog)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lew_Dog* »_I ran a tapped pan on my 2.8 24v Stage 2 kit. You will need to run a little less oil to prevent oil from backing up the return line. I think I ran a half quart less and had no issues.

x2. i do the same thing with no problems http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

Running less oil is probably just as dumb as drilling/tapping hole in the block, but I felt much more comfortable d/t the hole, so i went that way.


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (BoostedTinCan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BoostedTinCan* »_Running less oil is probably just as dumb as drilling/tapping hole in the block, but I felt much more comfortable d/t the hole, so i went that way.

So it's a lose\lose I guess...








I don't really see what the problem is running a quarter or half quart less oil as long as you check the oil level on occasion. I never had a problem with losing oil between changes.


----------



## kzy247365 (Dec 10, 2006)

*Is it possible *

My VR w/original AMS charger kit has been sittin all winter b/c I got low compression in 2 cylinders. I took it for a drive earlier and it was running like a champ







Is it possible for rings to re-seal/re-seat themselves or is it a fluke I'm runnin the original pulley, I think its 2.87 or 3.12, not sure, but my Autometer was sayin 10lbs of boost. I'm planning on a rebuild sometime this year. I'm just surprised at how well it is doing in its current state. CHIRPIN 3rd


----------



## docii (Apr 15, 2007)

install is complete but having an issue with idle.
it goes from 1k up to 3k and back and forth
anyone have this issue?
the beast to be












_Modified by docii at 7:23 PM 3-21-2010_


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

here is a thought that maybe somebody has asked/tought of before. when you use a bigger (euro) throttle body over the stock 2.8l 12v us made one, would the air speed going though it be faster due to the smaller diameter of the tb when using forced induction, or would the bigger one make the more power due to the ease of flow (cfm's) into the motor ? has anybody put the motor on a dyno and check stock versus the 2.9l euro throttle body with a supercharger? i have been told that the 2.9l intake would take away from the power due to the larger area to fill with boost in the manifold. has anybady put this on a dyno as well ? us versus euro manifold under boost on a dyno? really just curious and do not know where to find such information...thanks guys and gals....


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

*Re: (Lew_Dog)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lew_Dog* »_
So it's a lose\lose I guess...








I don't really see what the problem is running a quarter or half quart less oil as long as you check the oil level on occasion. I never had a problem with losing oil between changes.










well, in my corrado, i use almost 7 quarts in my 2.8l 12v with the charger and a little less on the stock car. the oem one is around 6 quarts if my memory serves me right. so even if you put less in the motor, the charger holds quite a bit of oil itself which should make the point almost null i would think. just do your oil changes more often....personally i use 20w-50 to keep the bearings from dying sooner than later.....


----------



## dubber89 (Feb 2, 2010)

so i have a 97 gti vr6 with a vortech v1
running c2 software, full exhaust, 272 cams.
i see 12 psi at redline...anyone know what size pulley i have? i think its either a 2.5 or 2.65


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: (angelod307)*

Im interested in this as well. Thanks angelo for posting this up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I'm currently using a 2.9 TB and have a clone 2.9 manifold to go on as well.


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

My filter is on the level with oil pan hangin down , without any extension hose, where do you guy relocate the maf/filter too in a corrado , I'm going to try attempting into the bumper area, but it looks very limited... any suggestions.


----------



## Grits 'n gravy (Mar 30, 2004)

*Re: (karlorado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *karlorado* »_This what I have (for now, 3.4 long block to be installed this spring) pretty self explanitory. Yes I know, the manilofd valve is not connected to vacuum at this time. PM if you have questions. 









More more more more more more more more!!


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (angelod307)*


_Quote, originally posted by *angelod307* »_here is a thought that maybe somebody has asked/tought of before. when you use a bigger (euro) throttle body over the stock 2.8l 12v us made one, would the air speed going though it be faster due to the smaller diameter of the tb when using forced induction, or would the bigger one make the more power due to the ease of flow (cfm's) into the motor ? has anybody put the motor on a dyno and check stock versus the 2.9l euro throttle body with a supercharger? i have been told that the 2.9l intake would take away from the power due to the larger area to fill with boost in the manifold. has anybady put this on a dyno as well ? us versus euro manifold under boost on a dyno? really just curious and do not know where to find such information...thanks guys and gals....


Food for thought. On my 12v I'm running the R32 3.2l throttle body. Its larger than 3" and seems to work well for me so far.


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_Food for thought. On my 12v I'm running the R32 3.2l throttle body. Its larger than 3" and seems to work well for me so far.

Please post a pic of that. How does the TPS attach?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (vdubbed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubbed* »_
Please post a pic of that. How does the TPS attach?

If you are mkiv it doesn't matter. they plug right up. Its a hard pic to see anything due to the design of my intake manifold.









The base is larger than the standard 2.8l tb. The overall size of the 3.2l tb is close to 1/4" in diameter larger.


----------



## dubber89 (Feb 2, 2010)

hey guys thought i would share my setup and show it...only having one problem...
v1 charger
12 psi at redline (not sure which pulley)
30lb injectors, c2 software
using oem 1.8t bosch DV
272 cams, ported intake mani
bosal headers, no cat
i made 326whp on a mustang dyno last week








so the only "problem" im having is ive been getting alot of steam/smoke out of my pcv dump tube (i have it exiting near my right rear wheel, and it looks like i have side exhaust). i plan on getting a compression test soon.
also what are you guys making for a/f? ive got an AEM wideband and at WOT on the highway in 3rd i see high 11s low 12s


----------



## docii (Apr 15, 2007)

Do you guys think it would be ok to do one dv and one bov or would that cause an issue? . I have a stage 2 setup with 2 dv's and I think one of them isent working right.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (docii)*

both of the dvs are releasing meetered air so yes they both need to be plumbed back into the intake past maf sensor.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (dubber89)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubber89* »_
i made 326whp on a mustang dyno last week


WHAT?!?!? *326whp* on a Mustang? Non-intercooled? 30# software??? Stock intake manifold? I don't believe it. Post up a slip, man. If it's the truth, I give you ridiculous props for having almost 100 more whp than me and I'm on standalone...
did you mean to type 226whp? Cause that would make A LOT more sense.


----------



## dubber89 (Feb 2, 2010)

*Re: (obdONE)*

if youre making 40 more horsepower than stock with a supercharger you are either running very low boost or doing something wrong.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (dubber89)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubber89* »_if youre making 40 more horsepower than stock with a supercharger you are either running very low boost or doing something wrong.

a stock vr runs what, 160whp stock? and on a Mustang that would probably be like 150whp stock?
I'm making 268whp on a Mustang at 11psi. so how is that 40 more whp than stock? And you still haven't posted a slip.
Like I said, I'll shut up and give you yours props when you prove it, don't think I won't. But until that happens, I call bull ****.
There is only one person on here that has made that much power with a V1 in general and they definitely have more done to their engine than just some cams. So, if you have obliterated everyone else's whp on a stock engine with some cams, then I'm asking you to prove it.


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (obdONE)*


__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


----------



## dubber89 (Feb 2, 2010)

*Re: (obdONE)*

i am sorry, i meant to say at the motor. not the wheels


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (dubber89)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubber89* »_i am sorry, i meant to say at the motor. not the wheels

330chp X .88 = 287whp (rounded)
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
that is a believable #, although on a 30# tune that sounds a bit high. what trim V1 are you running???? also, no IC???? what compression???


----------



## dubber89 (Feb 2, 2010)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

yeah sorry about that. running stock compression, no head spacer.
i beleive it is an s trim, i dont see the need for a t trim
i have some JE pistons and Pauter rods i plan on throwing in soon, along with an intercooler. then im going to find the smallest pulley i can and see what happens.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (dubber89)*

did you buy the kit second hand??? because I don't think and S trim can move enough air at 12psi to produce the #'s you are seeing....I think you may have a T trim unit already (or S trim with a T trim impeller). http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (dubber89)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubber89* »_yeah sorry about that. running stock compression, no head spacer.
i beleive it is an s trim, i dont see the need for a t trim
i have some JE pistons and Pauter rods i plan on throwing in soon, along with an intercooler. then im going to find the smallest pulley i can and see what happens.


Lots of belt slip!!!


----------



## dubber89 (Feb 2, 2010)

*Re: (littlenr)*

im running a gatorback belt right now and havnt had any slip problems yet.


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

*Re: (dubber89)*

All I need is a new pulley. But I sort of wish we could get 7 rib pulleys. But I guess I will have to get an 8 rib at the end of the day.
2.75" Should be nice though.


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: (Scooter98144)*

I'm glad there is talk of belts in here. I am looking into a belt for my S/C setup.
I looked and looked and looked all thru this thread and cannot find anyone who has listed the length they are using for their setup, other than at the bottom of page three someone listed a 1290mm belt for a v9 w/o ac. I am currently running sans power steering or AC. 12v V9 2.5" pulley. measured the length with a tape-measure at 48" all the way up (tensioned if there were a belt) and 46" all the way down (un-tensioned) so I figure slplit the difference and call it 47". I converted the 47" into mm and I get 1193mm. So I locate an 8 rib belt that 1189mm good to go right? 
bzzzt wrong. the 1189 waaay to effin long. So, who out there might also have a v9, with vF style mount, with no additional idler, running without ac and power steering? and what type of belt? 8 rib trimmed down or 7 rib? gatorback or some other premium belt. I'm not helpless, just need some guidance.
TIA gents


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Check gate's belts or Continental! Those are my brands of choice. Belts for Anything


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*

I just put a Gates belt on a little while ago and am very happy with it. Very stout belt http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

for those running serp sectups, I had great sucess w/ the gatorback belts. The nubs on the backing really helped lessen the slippage.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_for those running serp sectups, I had great sucess w/ the gatorback belts. The nubs on the backing really helped lessen the slippage. 

X2 the cost is worth the added grip they provide. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## kzy247365 (Dec 10, 2006)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

My V1 application calls for a 61 inch belt. I am assuming everyone is going with the 8 rib and cutting one rib off? Gatorback comes in 60.5in effective length/61.25 outside length (part# 4080605) and 61 effective/61.75 outside (part# 4080605). Which length do I get? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: (kzy247365)*

I too am looking for what LENGTH belt that people with a V9 and no AC and no PS are using. 
once I find a belt I will then get the gatorback or other equivalent premium belt. but I have to find the length first.


----------



## kzy247365 (Dec 10, 2006)

*Re: (scirockin16v)*

In case anyone wanted to know the part#'s for each size, this site is helpful. http://www.goodyearep.com/Prod...=3128


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

I am no help with serp. belts. I run auxiliary belt length of 46.6". Thats direct drive from crank to charger.


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

first fitments...

got any pics witch small clean?
looking for inspiration


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (Praks)*

Oh I like that car color......

I'm kinda particle to that color though!!


----------



## dubber89 (Feb 2, 2010)

looking at that picture brings up another question i have. i noticed you have a breather filter on your PCV ... mine smokes ALOT out of there. im not sure if its because im FI or not, because my friend has a pretty much stock vr6 and his only gets slight oil drippage...no smoke


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (dubber89)*

Do a compression test. I just rebuilt a short block for the same reason


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

phenolic intake manifold spacers. Where do I get one?


----------



## dubber89 (Feb 2, 2010)

*Re: (KubotaPowered)*

ive been thinking of doing a rebuild...i only have 93,000 miles but ive been on 12lbs with no head spacer for about 3 1/2 years and i beat the hell out of this thing...
any sites that sell rebuild kits? 
thanks


----------



## Flyweight (Jan 15, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*

http://www.momentummotorparts.com/store/engine.asp
MMP had the thickest manifold spacers when I purchased mine over a year ago. The spacer fit well and the hardware that was included was quality. 


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_phenolic intake manifold spacers. Where do I get one?


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (dubber89)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubber89* »_ive been thinking of doing a rebuild...i only have 93,000 miles but ive been on 12lbs with no head spacer for about 3 1/2 years and i beat the hell out of this thing...
any sites that sell rebuild kits? 
thanks

http://www.mjmautohaus.com


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (Flyweight)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Flyweight* »_http://www.momentummotorparts.com/store/engine.asp
MMP had the thickest manifold spacers when I purchased mine over a year ago. The spacer fit well and the hardware that was included was quality. 



Thanks!


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

where do you guys get these k&n filter "socks" i need to get rid of the VF filter cone/box, too big


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

*Re: (BoostedTinCan)*

[OBD2] so what exactly does the sensor/plug on the valve cover breather look for? i just realized that system was tied into the mani, and mine had to be a boost leak as it was hanging off like this:








so i capped off the part that goes to the mani, and did this:








before i decide on a permanent solution i want to know (if it is a sensor or valve?) what that sensor is there for, and how its reading affects the ecu.
thanks


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

is it a heating element? bump for some help


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (ThaCorradoKid)*

Blair, you can leave the sensor unplugged and run a catch can or breather like you are with out any problems.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_Blair, you can leave the sensor unplugged and run a catch can or breather like you are with out any problems. 

what he said!


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

thanks. yea i figured as much considering the amount of cars i see w/o the sensor. my brain is still thirsty to know wtf it does tho. if its wired to the ecu, it has to provide some sort of info, right?
it just seems obd2 sac-religious to leave a sensor unplugged


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (ThaCorradoKid)*

actually its a heater element. what it does is allows the crank case gases to be sucked into the intake of your car to burn. But having oil vapor in the intake causes the throttle body to gum up and also lowers the octane effectiveness.


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_actually its a heater element. what it does is allows the crank case gases to be sucked into the intake of your car to burn. But having oil vapor in the intake causes the throttle body to gum up and also lowers the octane effectiveness. 

Well, there you go and well said. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

cool, didn't know about the octane effectiveness bit. def not something we need w/ boost.


----------



## slvr bullet (Aug 23, 2005)

*Re: (BoostedTinCan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BoostedTinCan* »_where do you guys get these k&n filter "socks" i need to get rid of the VF filter cone/box, too big

summit racing dry charge or something like that


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *black 86 rocco* »_ive read that with the AMS kit you have to shave down the ribs on the ac pulley. now if you dont do that, will you run into belt slip?


yes, the belt AMS has u use w/ there kit is only 1 sided so if u dont shave down the AC pulley it will ruin the belt. i had mine shaved down locally, wasn't a big deal. i spent 2 weeks checking for a 2 sided belt and wasn't able to find one, if i had found one then i wouldn't need to shave down the AC pulley.


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

*Re: (dubber89)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubber89* »_ive been thinking of doing a rebuild...i only have 93,000 miles but ive been on 12lbs with no head spacer for about 3 1/2 years and i beat the hell out of this thing...
any sites that sell rebuild kits? 
thanks

james at four season tuning is second to none.


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

*Re: (angelod307)*

i just bought a back-up belt from vf engineering that is the two sided belt and i measured the outside length to be 54.7/8" or so. maybe even 55. the only other belt that i have heard might work is from a eurovan 2.8. anyway, i just put in a idler bracket and pulley with the same belt i used before and it did not affect the length at all. the charger is still at the same place when i re-tightened it.


----------



## Craige-O (Mar 1, 2002)

*Re: (scirockin16v)*

Running a VF StageIII system on my R32. So far it runs well and I like it. Might change it up a bit this summer. Short runner, air to water and some Meth...


----------



## elicitvr6 (Jan 10, 2002)

*Re: (Craige-O)*

For those running the VF kit on their MK3, has anybody come up with a good way to protect the filter/intake pipe? It's placement makes things a tad dangerous if you happen to be driving in the rain. Thoughts?


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (elicitvr6)*

You can try using a shorter filter like an HKS green top. There is one for sales in the MW FS thread:








Or maybe have your boy Jay fab up an air box for the K&N.


_Modified by Lew_Dog at 8:16 PM 3-30-2010_


----------



## elicitvr6 (Jan 10, 2002)

*Re: (Lew_Dog)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lew_Dog* »_You can try using a shorter filter like an HKS green top. There is one for sales in the MW FS thread:








Or maybe have your boy Jay fab up an air box for the K&N.

_Modified by Lew_Dog at 8:16 PM 3-30-2010_


Interesting. Actually, since the car is out at MobileOne right now I may just ask the madman to fab something up.


----------



## vanilla gorilla (Jul 7, 2004)

If anyone is interested, i have my stage 3 VF kit up for sale w/ w/m injection kit.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4755850
thanks for looking


----------



## BlueMk3VR6 (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (kzy247365)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kzy247365* »_My V1 application calls for a 61 inch belt. I am assuming everyone is going with the 8 rib and cutting one rib off? Gatorback comes in 60.5in effective length/61.25 outside length (part# 4080605) and 61 effective/61.75 outside (part# 4080605). Which length do I get? 

4080605 8PK1535 8rib 60.5 effective - 61.25 outside 
4080610 8PK1550 8rib 61 effective - 61.75 outside 
You are talking about two different belts/different part #'s. Been running Gatorback belt since day 1 and never knew that #4080605 has two different lenghts in that part number. 
I have one rib cut off and shaved AC pulley with my 2.75" pulley and never had any slippage issues.
Great success with Goodyear Gatorback belt, plus it's only $22. 


_Modified by BlueMk3VR6 at 1:39 PM 3-31-2010_


----------



## kzy247365 (Dec 10, 2006)

*Re: (BlueMk3VR6)*

So it is 4080605 and not 4080610? I typed the same part# twice. You answered my question tho http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif THANX!!!


----------



## BlueMk3VR6 (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (kzy247365)*

4080605 is the correct one. I get mine from local Autozone for around $22-23.


----------



## 1LIFEtoDuB (Feb 4, 2008)

*Re: (BlueMk3VR6)*

question to all the v1 guys what psi will I see with a 2.75 pulley?or 2.5?


----------



## DR.muelitas vr6 (Mar 19, 2008)

Hi one question what is the correct size exhaust line for a V9 supercharger in a mk3 vr6 i running at 6lbs, sorry my english is very bad, thanks guys


_Modified by DR.muelitas vr6 at 2:14 AM 4-7-2010_


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (DR.muelitas vr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DR.muelitas vr6* »_Hi one question what is the correct size exhaust line for a V9 supercharger in a mk3 vr6 i running at 6lbs, sorry my english is very bad, thanks guys

_Modified by DR.muelitas vr6 at 2:14 AM 4-7-2010_

bigger is always better on an FI'd motor.....at least 2.5" or 70mm


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

What are your plans for the future? A lot more boost? Cams? BVH? etc... I have a 2.5" Stainless TT and I think it is fine, I am running 9-10lbs of boost.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (1LIFEtoDuB)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1LIFEtoDuB* »_question to all the v1 guys what psi will I see with a 2.75 pulley?or 2.5?


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (obdONE)*

with or w/o belt slip?
it will vary depending. IMO I think this is the smallest ribbed pulley that should be ran since it really tends to slip when going smaller than this. 
2.75 should realisticaly produce around 10-12# depending where 'Your' redline is.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_with or w/o belt slip?
it will vary depending. IMO I think this is the smallest ribbed pulley that should be ran since it really tends to slip when going smaller than this. 
2.75 should realisticaly produce around 10-12# depending where 'Your' redline is. 

add to that Trim of the charger will also affect the boost. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

I swapped out my banged up 2.5" pulley for a supercharger rebuilds 2.7. Pulley was made nicely. Boost levels are lower, but no belt slipping. I'll once again go back to the 2.5" from them when I have the funds and time. My boost gauge is showing 12psi at 7200 rpm.


----------



## Nolig23 (Apr 22, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*

with the help of a friend (-throttle-) i have recently joined the ranks. picked up a v2 setup. came with what we believe is a 15psi pulley, 30# injectors, giac stage 2 software, dual idler, 4" maf, and pretty much everything needed. 
only issues i've run into have been running really rich and eventually misfiring fouling all 6 spark plugs within just a few days. i've replaced the plugs (ngk bk7re's) and have also purchased c2's 30# chip. hopefully this will better things and i will be posting pics. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (Nolig23)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Nolig23* »_30# injectors, 4" maf


_Quote, originally posted by *Nolig23* »_running really rich, misfiring, fouling all 6 spark plugs

hmmmm. I thought only 36# and above needed the 4" housing? and are you actually running the GIAC software? Wasn't aware you could trick it, like C2, with the 4" housing. This may be your rich / misfiring / fouling problem?
of course, I could be crazy... just throwing that out there. I'm sure Mike knows what's up...
g/l with the setup!


----------



## Nolig23 (Apr 22, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_
hmmmm. I thought only 36# and above needed the 4" housing? and are you actually running the GIAC software? Wasn't aware you could trick it, like C2, with the 4" housing. This may be your rich / misfiring / fouling problem?
of course, I could be crazy... just throwing that out there. I'm sure Mike knows what's up...
g/l with the setup!










you could be right. i'm still learning about s/c setups. only reason i ran the 4" housing is because it's what came with the kit. both my friend and myself believe that the software is the source of the issue. hopefully the c2 30# software fixes this and i'll be able to get on a dyno soon. 
and thank you. i've been reading this thread quite a bit since i bought the setup.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (Nolig23)*

well, I'm almost 100% positive that the C2 30# software uses the standard MAF housing, not the 4", so watch out for that.
I would suggest just throwing a stock MAF housing on there right now, see how it runs, before you go out and change software, etc.


----------



## Nolig23 (Apr 22, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_well, I'm almost 100% positive that the C2 30# software uses the standard MAF housing, not the 4", so watch out for that.
I would suggest just throwing a stock MAF housing on there right now, see how it runs, before you go out and change software, etc.

i will give that a try. thanks for the input.


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_question to all the v1 guys what psi will I see with a 2.75 pulley?or 2.5?


i see 14-16lbs boost w/ my 2.5" pulley, dont have much belt slip, if im lucky wont have any once im able to have u rework it.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (carsluTT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Nolig23* »_i will give that a try. thanks for the input.

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Quote, originally posted by *carsluTT* »_
i see 14-16lbs boost w/ my 2.5" pulley, dont have much belt slip, if im lucky wont have any once im able to have u rework it. 

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (Nolig23)*

I installed a TT downpipe this weekend on my B3 Passat with a V9 charger and C2 30# software. I know there has been claims of 20 Hp gain just from the TT downpipe, I don't have any dyno(s) to back that up. But I can add it made a HUGE difference, the car pulls A LOT harder in every gear. I dare say it made a bigger difference than when I had installed 268 cams in the past on my N/A VR's. If you looking to buy one I got mine from DubNutz for a great price and I'm uber happy with it! It's an amazing bolt on for sure http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Nolig23 (Apr 22, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_well, I'm almost 100% positive that the C2 30# software uses the standard MAF housing, not the 4", so watch out for that.
I would suggest just throwing a stock MAF housing on there right now, see how it runs, before you go out and change software, etc.

so after everything i decided to scan my car and pulled 9 codes none of which were for misfires or running rich and 3 will be taken care of by c2 software (cat, rear o2 sensor, and sai). the other 6 involved my maf (low input most likely caused by the 4" maf) internal control module rom error (ecu is most likely toast) and some throttle body related codes. i'm going to swap ecus once my c2 software arrives, swap throttle bodies, and hopefully this should solve my issues. according to c2's site their stage 1 30# software can be used with a 4" maf, but just in case i have a stock vr maf on standby as well. just figured i'd give an update on what's been going on.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (obdONE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *obdONE* »_well, I'm almost 100% positive that the C2 30# software uses the standard MAF housing, not the 4", so watch out for that.
I would suggest just throwing a stock MAF housing on there right now, see how it runs, before you go out and change software, etc.

I've seen the 30lb software run the big MAF housing, at least the newer stuff.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

*Re: FV-QR (KubotaPowered)*

The current C2 software for 30 lb injectors uses the 4" MAF and should be located before the charger.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (KubotaPowered)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KubotaPowered* »_
I've seen the 30lb software run the big MAF housing, at least the newer stuff.

I can tell you right now that that is NOT working for me....we are not sure of the injector size (thanks VFE), but I am running waaaaay lean with this set up....we are assuming injectors smaller than #42, and will be replaced in a few days. the #42 C2 SW and a 4" MAF flow too much air for smaller injectors.


----------



## Doxie Moxie (Mar 1, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (.LSinLV.)*

Bracket goodness


----------



## Nolig23 (Apr 22, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Doxie Moxie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Doxie Moxie* »_Bracket goodness









nice http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Nolig23)*

ok, guys I have a question. and I have a visual aid
pic:








is this line connected correctly? This is how it was connected when I got the charger. I had never run the charger before this evening. I believe there is an excessive amount of oil coming from the outlet volute of the charger. I had my MAF connected to the TB, and stock software, in order to "test run" the charger. the chargers outlet was not fed into my maf or TB. While it was running, maybe 25-30 seconds maybe 1/3 quart (est) was pushed through the chargers outlet volute. Most of the V9 setups I've seen (in pics) have the oil feed lines connected like mine are, I'm curious if this charger is in need of servicing. no odd noises or squeals were noticed, other than blower whine. Any help is appreciated. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dubber89 (Feb 2, 2010)

has anyone ever replaced a seal on a v1 s trim? mine is slightly leaking, and my friend told me that its very hard and i just should send it to vortech for a rebuild


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (dubber89)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubber89* »_has anyone ever replaced a seal on a v1 s trim? mine is slightly leaking, and my friend told me that its very hard and i just should send it to vortech for a rebuild

Its not too hard if you've got the right size jigs for the press. Seeing as you're in Mass, if you need us to change out the seals let me know. Chances are we can get them changed out and back to you within a few days.


----------



## COUPE-VR6 (Nov 6, 2002)

*Re: (slc92)*

great thread Im trying to get through all of it but havent made it yet. Question though.
Im soon too be running a 2.9L vr6 with an Ams vortech V1, with an 8 pound pulley and no A/c. I also have the idler, I need to know what size belt to run please help thanks in advance.
pic of the car


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

C2 OBD1 G/J software is quite as bad as the Corrado. C2 says you need to run a 4" MAF housing on the G/J and can use the OEM 4 Bar FPR and you can use EITHER the 30# or 36# injectors.








When you are still running like sRhItCH, you will be told you can also try a 3Bar FPR w/ either of the injectors. Isnt that nice. 4 combos for a tune made just for your set up. LOL
Corrado OBD1 Coilpack uses 30# with the factory 3" MAF. 1 Corrado 6pin(1pc. housing) is not compatible w/ a 4 " housing/would run lean & has 2 too many wires to use an OBD2 MAF.
Go Standalone or have issues, period!
you are basically fk'd with this software &


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (scirockin16v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *scirockin16v* »_ok, guys I have a question. and I have a visual aid
pic:








is this line connected correctly? This is how it was connected when I got the charger. I had never run the charger before this evening. I believe there is an excessive amount of oil coming from the outlet volute of the charger. I had my MAF connected to the TB, and stock software, in order to "test run" the charger. the chargers outlet was not fed into my maf or TB. While it was running, maybe 25-30 seconds maybe 1/3 quart (est) was pushed through the chargers outlet volute. Most of the V9 setups I've seen (in pics) have the oil feed lines connected like mine are, I'm curious if this charger is in need of servicing. no odd noises or squeals were noticed, other than blower whine. Any help is appreciated. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


You have it hooked up wrong. The line that makes the loop needs the oil check valve in it. You pick shows that check valve on the oil supply line. This is the solid brass part right before the brass 90. Put that on the other line that loops to the discharge of the charger. Be sure to put the check in line facing the correct direction. OR else you will still have the same issue. If it keeps spitting just turn the check valve around.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

this thread has died. 
I did work on my V1 over this past weekend. New seals and everything. Did it in the garage with a home made press!! Charger works great and no oil leaks anymore.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*

mine has been sitting for the past week or so... no time right now. running well, but still need to work on the tune. We have a little show down here on the 25th that I am going to do some exterior work on the car for, so I'll have some new pics pretty soon.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_this thread has died. 
I did work on my V1 over this past weekend. New seals and everything. Did it in the garage with a home made press!! Charger works great and no oil leaks anymore.

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I should have my new injectors today and should have the car on the road tonight/tomorrow. I'll post up some pics soon of all the changes with more details on the set up (now a heavily modified VF stg IV beta kit)....and some new dyno's.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (.LSinLV.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.LSinLV.* »_
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I should have my new injectors today and should have the car on the road tonight/tomorrow. I'll post up some pics soon of all the changes with more details on the set up (now a heavily modified VF stg IV beta kit)....and some new dyno's.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


That sounds great! I need to snap some new piktars of my engine bay. Then do a dyno run to see where I stand. I have a feeling the fuel is cutting out. I ordered new plug wires, and plugs to rule out the ignition.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*

FYi - I read in this thread by Corvettkiller
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4834972
that he switched to NGK N5671-8's plugs and saw more power in the upper band....granted he is running a turbo, but his boost is not much more than ours....so I will also be trying out some different plugs to see if I get better/cleaner power. It could be related to the lack of resistors, but who knows.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (.LSinLV.)*

Ya i read that the other day. Its a good write up too!


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (scirockin16v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *scirockin16v* »_









Question for all... what's the purpose of this breather line? Does one have to be run? It just doesn't make any sense to me. I can only guess that it allows excess pressure in the gear housing to be relieved in off-boost situations, but wouldn't pressure just force oil out the drain line? Someone edumacate me pleez!


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (lotar_6)*

pressurizes the oiling system of the charger. Helps with lubricating the bearings and gears of that specific charger.


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*

OIC... had it backwards in my head. I've seen these mostly on V9's but not on V1-2's. But I have seen V1-2's with the fitting on the snail output w/ plugs in them. Anybody running a V1 or V2 w/ this oiling system pressurization line hooked up? How about without?
thnx


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (lotar_6)*

I run a V1 with out what is shown in the picture. The oil system of a v1-v2 is different. There is a restrictor on the oil supply port for them.
The picture above the restrictor/check valve is installed in the wrong place.


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*

thnx... I caught the check vlave / routing issue w/ the pic, but it was handy to use for reference. And the restrictor on the V1/2 is the long tube dealy as seen here...








glad to hear there's no need to run this pressure line on the V1/2...


----------



## dubber89 (Feb 2, 2010)

*Re: FV-QR (VW_Sporting)*

mine is welded where my cat would be, right after the flex pipe that connects my headers to the rest of my exhaust.


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_

You have it hooked up wrong. The line that makes the loop needs the oil check valve in it. You pick shows that check valve on the oil supply line. This is the solid brass part right before the brass 90. Put that on the other line that loops to the discharge of the charger. Be sure to put the check in line facing the correct direction. OR else you will still have the same issue. If it keeps spitting just turn the check valve around.


Thank you very kindly Nate http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Makes sense to me now

now I have an additional problem,








I happen to have broken the oil injector, oh happy joy. of course to day is Saturday and any place I can call to source a replacement is closed until Monday. rad.
craptacular cell phone pic








I know Vortech has replacement oil injectors here:
http://www.vortechsupercharger...?p=71
but the V9 kit as supplied by VF engineering uses a different oil injector. how do you think the charger will fare if I use the vortech style oil injector over the VFE version? 

_Modified by scirockin16v at 8:29 AM 4-17-2010_


_Modified by scirockin16v at 8:32 AM 4-17-2010_


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

I'd think you would be fine. Its made for the specific charger.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*

vortech MAKES the charger, NOT VF. 
the charger will be OK.


----------



## v-dubz4lyf (Jun 13, 2005)

hey guys. anyone running a 9v with a 12psi pulley??...whats the worst that can happen? and what kind of numbers are you seeing?....thanks


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*

If you try running @ 12 psi, you will toast the charger. The stock bearings cannot support the load and they will fail.


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (.LSinLV.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.LSinLV.* »_vortech MAKES the charger, NOT VF. 
the charger will be OK.
\

I am aware that Vortech makes the charger not VF. I was curious if the specific oil injector had been supplied by VF or not. As it turns out, the V9 chargers require a different oil injector than as listed on vortech's site. Long story short, its designed from Vortech, to use a different style oil injector (than V1/V2 V5 etc) and it was cheaper than the one listed on the site!


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (scirockin16v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *scirockin16v* »_\

I am aware that Vortech makes the charger not VF. I was curious if the specific oil injector had been supplied by VF or not. As it turns out, the V9 chargers require a different oil injector than as listed on vortech's site. Long story short, its designed from Vortech, to use a different style oil injector (than V1/V2 V5 etc) and it was cheaper than the one listed on the site!

Email Todd at Superchargerrebuilds.com and ask him if he can supply the part you need.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_
Email Todd at Superchargerrebuilds.com and ask him if he can supply the part you need.










http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif he can, it's where I got mine.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (groupracer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *v-dubz4lyf* »_hey guys. anyone running a 9v with a 12psi pulley??...whats the worst that can happen? and what kind of numbers are you seeing?....thanks

yes, I am. My setup is heavily modified though. After my intercooler I am seeing 11psi at 6500rpm. On a Mustang dyno I made 268whp. My pulley is also modified.

_Quote, originally posted by *groupracer* »_If you try running @ 12 psi, you will toast the charger. The stock bearings cannot support the load and they will fail.

This may or may not be true. So far it has not been, but I'm not saying that will always be the case. Generally the problem I have heard is to overcome the insane amounts of belt slip generated with the small 2.5" pulley, people over tighten their belts to the point of destroying their bearings and other pulleys (water pump, etc.). That's why I made my custom pulley, and so far it has worked as I hoped.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *v-dubz4lyf* »_hey guys. anyone running a 9v with a 12psi pulley??...whats the worst that can happen? and what kind of numbers are you seeing?....thanks


When I had my V9 I ran 12psi pulley. No issues to the charger.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_

When I had my V9 I ran 12psi pulley. No issues to the charger. 

if you had an early/1st gen V9 then you are probably fine....but the later units had a very high failure rate over 11psi. I think the QC went out the door with Vortech in the past few years.....they really are not what they used to be.
I think they are just cheaping-out trying to squeeze more money out of every sale.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

how would one know whether or not his v9 is a "1st gen"? .just curious.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

I promise you mine was the oldest of the old. I know it was more than 5 years old because Vortech didn't have the serial number in their files anymore. That thing was stout!!


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_I promise you mine was the oldest of the old. I know it was more than 5 years old because Vortech didn't have the serial number in their files anymore. That thing was stout!!


X2...mine was purchased back in 05' .....sadly VF took it when they swapped it out for my V2 in the "STG IV" kit....and it had suspect seals and bearings in it.
http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

figured I'd post here. I'm still on the fence, but as a feeler I may be selling my complete set up. 
V1 w/ cogged system for A/C cars(can also be used for non A/C) 
15#, polished cgarger, replaced outer seal, new belt, spare new belt, C2 brackets, SS braided return line to AN fitting & pan. Freshly powdercoated pipes, etc. 
Corrado C2 chips & also a C2 custom tune avail. SP 9.4:1 spacer, bosch 30#, etc a complete kit that;s currently installed.


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

nice thread. my issue is not 100% consistent, but most of the time, under full throttle and around 5500, the motor loses,dies,looks like i hit the brakes if your next to me. i get the codes :
00758 031 
secondary air injection system open/short to ground (removed this setup and taped up wires)
00537 011 
oxygen sensor control
control limit not reached
00553 030 
mass air flow sensor-g70
open/short circuit to b+ 
sparadic dtc
again, sometimes, it goes through the rpm band until the rev limiter kicks in. i did not notice this until i swaped the pulley on the v9 charger from the 2.7 to the 2.4 and the charger hits the 8+psi were before it would goto 6-7psi and no problem. if i loosen the belt so it slips and does not exceed 6 psi the motor does fine once again.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (angelod307)*

I'm betting your o2 sensor is effed up. That controls the secondary air pump. So thats two codes down. The MaF i'd just unplug it and see if the car runs better. And if another code comes in for that being a intake temp sensor or something. Otherwise the maf is bad as well.
When you boost cars you really find out what sensors are good or bad.
Good luck!


----------



## V-dubbulyuh (Nov 13, 2005)

*Re: (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_When you boost cars you really find out what sensors are good or bad.


Could not be stated better. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 4G63Turbo (Dec 16, 2004)

A vr6 supercharged with 268cat cams idling-what should it show on a boost gauge as far as vacuum goes?
thanks guys


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: (4G63Turbo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *4G63Turbo* »_A vr6 supercharged with 268cat cams idling-what should it show on a boost gauge as far as vacuum goes?
thanks guys

im guessing 16-17hg


----------



## v-dubz4lyf (Jun 13, 2005)

thanks for the help so far guys...ok so with the vf tune the rev limiter is set to 7000rpm...if i get the 12psi pulley and set the limiter to 64-6500rpm...what kind of boost should i expect to see and will it be safe to run the charger at that hight rpm?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

my car with 262cams and short runner is showing 10" mg at idle! HA No leaks either.....


----------



## dubber89 (Feb 2, 2010)

*Re: (v-dubz4lyf)*

i have a v1 charger with a 12 psi pulley, and i do not see the full 12 pounds unless i bring it to 7000rpm. if i shift at 6500 i get 10 lbs


----------



## dubber89 (Feb 2, 2010)

hey for all you charger gurus out there....my buddy has a jetta with the same setup as me but im using a v1 and he has a v9. im on a 12 lb pulley and hes on a 10 lb pulley. he does not beleive me that the v9 makes less horse per psi due to it being smaller, anyone know where i can get the specs to show him? thanks


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (dubber89)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubber89* »_hey for all you charger gurus out there....my buddy has a jetta with the same setup as me but im using a v1 and he has a v9. im on a 12 lb pulley and hes on a 10 lb pulley. he does not beleive me that the v9 makes less horse per psi due to it being smaller, anyone know where i can get the specs to show him? thanks


Go to Vortech's web site Vortech Superchargers. Show him the CFM differences of the two chargers. That should explain it pretty simple. The more cfm you can flow the more power you make. PSI is the resistance to flow.


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

I have stage 2 VF kit on a corrado, my air filter is soaked with oil, the breather line coming off the valve cover is "T" in with idle control valve (which is unpluged) and the catch can that was supplied with the kit, then back to the intake after the blower, is the oil soaking normal ?


_Modified by BoostedTinCan at 7:02 PM 4-23-2010_


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (angelod307)*

You are hitting the 5v MAF limit on your OBD1 3" MAF. No tune other than stand alone (MAP sensor) will eliminate this. 
You can simply use a large rpulley & make less boost, swap to OBD2 (larger housing/remapped tune) or go MAP tuned stand alone.

VF-E/GIAC tune uses a MAF Clamp & has tried to 'tune' around this issue. It worked to a point, but then their adjusted tune runs lean beyond 8+ # or bolts ons. 
Its sparatic because of variable 'weather' & boost conditions. 
- multiple redline pulls cause this
- staying part/full throttle near redline (aka 'in boost' will cause this
- too much boost will cause this
- you may notice it happens less on single/short pulls. yep. OBD1 sux!

_Quote, originally posted by *angelod307* »_nice thread. my issue is not 100% consistent, but most of the time, under full throttle and around 5500, the motor loses,dies,looks like i hit the brakes if your next to me. i get the codes :
00758 031 
secondary air injection system open/short to ground (removed this setup and taped up wires)
00537 011 
oxygen sensor control
control limit not reached
00553 030 
mass air flow sensor-g70
open/short circuit to b+ 
sparadic dtc
again, sometimes, it goes through the rpm band until the rev limiter kicks in. i did not notice this until i swaped the pulley on the v9 charger from the 2.7 to the 2.4 and the charger hits the 8+psi were before it would goto 6-7psi and no problem. if i loosen the belt so it slips and does not exceed 6 psi the motor does fine once again. 



_Modified by CorradoMagic at 7:45 PM 4-23-2010_


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

My knock sensor from old age just ripped off from the block, and its a project to replace it on a corrado , I have another one to go on, i was just wondering, can I do any damage to the motor on boost with it not being connected, or is there some kind of safe mode


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

On a positive note.. Yesterday I moved the MAF even further away from the intake/charger. 
basically its 18" away from thr charger. I used a 3" reinforced flex pipe to tuck neatly behind the front bumper grill area, then extended the MAF wires (soldered, cold shrink tape & outer wrap) to the center of the bumper area. The MAF is simply secured to the lower subframe via 2 big as szip ties. Currently the same cone filter is mounted right there on the MAF housing. The filter is above the euro lip. 
results- a much better, but now lower idle (that occasionaly stalls) & less to zero bucking. I need to do some more driving to see if the typical 1800-2200rpm & 2800-3200rpm flat/bucking zones are reduced/eliminated.
- I will then be adding another length of tubing to the MAF housing & relocating the filter to the area where the VR6 horns mounts. The dual horn bracket will have to be turned or reangles just slightly. 
The filter will be well protected in this area while also be away from any heat source. 
The length to the MAF is aprox 2 ft, then another 2ft from the MAF to the charger intake.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 










_Modified by CorradoMagic at 12:51 PM 4-25-2010_


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

would like to intruduce myself, my friends call me FLEX!
just purchased a vf stage 3 kit that i will b installing in my mk4 12v. so far i've been catching up with this thread and so far read the first 25 pages but will keep going.
here's the start of my questions;
1-pulley measures 2.25" when measured across, what psi on a v-9?
2-seller didn't send me the 36# injectors or the walbro 255 and won't answer me, shoukd i get mk3 or mk4 injectors and do i really need to get the fuel pump?
3-read that the spark plug to use is the ngk bkr7e gapped .23-.28? even on the mk4?
4-make sure MAF is atleast 18" from charger and best if filter is 18" from MAF right? (might b hard to achieve that)
5- i will b installing a short runner intake also with this set-up, how hard is it to extend the TB wiring and best way to do it? twist wires+heat shrink, butt connectors+heat shrink, solder wires(what type of solder? don't want to change resistance)+heat shrink.?
5b-does same go for the MAF? ^^^^

i'll try not to flood u guys with questions all at once so i'll save the next batch for later















btw- my set-up, v-9 with 2.25" pulley, intercooled, short runner with new south intake mani gasket, stock internals and compression on mk4 12v, c2 36# injectors and software unless u guys tell me something different, 4" MAF housing
r u guys all running a diff or can i just get away with a new clutch for now and what clutch u guys recomend?


----------



## jkillion (Feb 12, 2000)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

Following up on a post I made a while back. Bucking/stalling issues on my Corrado (92 VR6, Stg2 VF V9 kit) were fixed by installing a flow straightener in the MAF. My Corrado MAF only has screens so swirling flow can be generated upstream of the supercharger inlet. I verified MAF signal before and after install using VAG tool - no more spikes and much steadier after installing. I purchased from http://www.saxonpc.com/airflow-products.html and cut myself to fit. Tied it to the existing screens using fine wire.
Some pics
























Fist attempt using straws - this worked! but I got nervous about the glue breaking...








Note: I had moved the MAF as far away as the front engine mount before this with no improvement in the bucking stalling. Now it's back tucked behind the front passenger quarter panel. Not sure what other cars may or may not have straighteners in the MAF from the factory, but I have a hunch that is why some installs go smoothly and others don't.
Jesse



_Modified by jkillion at 4:07 PM 4-25-2010_


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

*Re: (jkillion)*

^^^that's some good info right there, thanks for the link also!


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

So many bucking horror stories on here, I just installed a vf stage 2 kit a month ago on my obd1 dizzy corrado, c2 software, runs smooth as butter, didn't even extend the maf location yet.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (2tone12v)*

Hey Flex, welcome to VW headache #2, Rados being numero uno!

_Quote, originally posted by *2tone12v* »_
just purchased a vf stage 3 kit that i will b installing in my mk4 12v.
here's the start of my questions;
1-pulley measures 2.25" when measured across, what psi on a v-9? 
- This is really small. I have never seen 2.25. Usually 2.5 is the smallest & thats around 12psi on the V9.
Be careful, 2.25 will be overspinning the V9 (well past max impeller speed) . It will soon fail. 
2-seller didn't send me the 36# injectors or the walbro 255 and won't answer me, shoukd i get mk3 or mk4 injectors and do i really need to get the fuel pump?
not sure about the inj on the MK4 kit. The mk3 kits use 30#. a inline pump isnt required, but if that pulley really is 2.25 (dont run it), he would have needed it. Your good till around 8# w/ VF-E/GIAC. Adding cams, etc or higher boost commonly causes lean issues. If you run any other mods or want to run smaller than 2.75, using another pump would be a good idea. 
3-read that the spark plug to use is the ngk bkr7e gapped .23-.28? even on the mk4?
BKR7E is 2 stages colder than stock. Typically for 10# set ups & they wear out quite fast (8k?), For an 8# system I'd think the bKR6E was a better choice. 
4-make sure MAF is atleast 18" from charger and best if filter is 18" from MAF right? (might b hard to achieve that). This is ideal, but I just installed mine w/ the maf & filter at about 2ft away, although I will try to extend the filter as well to see what those results are. 
5- i will b installing a short runner intake also with this set-up, how hard is it to extend the TB wiring and best way to do it? twist wires+heat shrink, butt connectors+heat shrink, solder wires(what type of solder? don't want to change resistance)+heat shrink.?
5b-does same go for the MAF? ^^^^
Well, I havent extended my TB wires bit I just re-extended my MAF on Sat. I used equal length of the same size wire/or about 20awg. I soldered the wires, then used 'cold shrink tape' over the area & then again over then extension. Its a glueless, self bonding, insulating, waterproof tape. 
Use electrical solder. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

i'll try not to flood u guys with questions all at once so i'll save the next batch for later















btw- my set-up, v-9 with 2.25" pulley, intercooled, short runner with new south intake mani gasket, stock internals and compression on mk4 12v, c2 36# injectors and software unless u guys tell me something different, 4" MAF housing
r u guys all running a diff or can i just get away with a new clutch for now and what clutch u guys recomend?


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*

What's goIn on Keith? Thanks for the info buddy! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
now that I have read more pages I have read that the 2.25" pulley is the standard size for vf's stage 3 set up so u say I'll b in trouble if I use it huh?








I didn't even start the install yet and allready want to sell this kit, anyone interested???
Procharger D1-sc is what I should have looked into but this was an impulse last minute puchase.
Or maybe just a cogged 12# setup


----------



## slvr bullet (Aug 23, 2005)

Looks like I will be gettin my v9 rebuilt in the near future again. Just wondering if it's worth it to get abec9 bearings put in. I want to run a 2.5 pulley. I found oil in the inlet side of the charger and pcv is vented to atmosphere. Supercharger rebuilds do they have a good turn around time?


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (slvr bullet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slvr bullet* »_Looks like I will be gettin my v9 rebuilt in the near future again. Just wondering if it's worth it to get abec9 bearings put in. I want to run a 2.5 pulley. I found oil in the inlet side of the charger and pcv is vented to atmosphere. Supercharger rebuilds do they have a good turn around time? 

Do NOT run ceramic bearings, they are not stout enough. 
I am rebuilding my V2 (after just rebuilding it







) and the ABEC 7 spec should be fine. Remember that the ABEC rating is NOT speed related, but tolerance...this can allow a bearing to spin faster.
I am currently going to change formt he crappy, Nachi bearings, which are rated ABEC 5, and abou 40K rpms







(note that this is about 15K rpms LESS than the spec that Vortech states for the V2). I am going to be trying out a different manufacturer, and if it works (working with their engineer), I think I may have found a more stout/robust bearing that will work in the Vortech chargers and allow higher RPMS......I'll no more within 30 days for those who can wait.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.LSinLV.* »_
Do NOT run ceramic bearings, they are not stout enough. 
I am rebuilding my V2 (after just rebuilding it







) and the ABEC 7 spec should be fine. Remember that the ABEC rating is NOT speed related, but tolerance...this can allow a bearing to spin faster.
I am currently going to change formt he crappy, Nachi bearings, which are rated ABEC 5, and abou 40K rpms







(note that this is about 15K rpms LESS than the spec that Vortech states for the V2). I am going to be trying out a different manufacturer, and if it works (working with their engineer), I think I may have found a more stout/robust bearing that will work in the Vortech chargers and allow higher RPMS......I'll no more within 30 days for those who can wait.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I'm interested to hear back your findings on this http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## slvr bullet (Aug 23, 2005)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

I'll wait to see what you find out. Sick of worrying about bearings all the time.


----------



## v-dubz4lyf (Jun 13, 2005)

FS!! 0BD2 STAGE 2 VF ENGINEERING SC KIT
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4869293


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

I do not have a boost gauge yet, what are the symptoms of a slipping belt, other then power loss, any vibrations/pulsations etc... ?


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.LSinLV.* »_Do NOT run ceramic bearings, they are not stout enough.

You need to talk to Noah from Verdict Motorsports. He rebuilt his v9 with ceramics and ran over 35k miles with them in his Corrado. If memory servers me right he also ran it across country and ran it at Bonneville too. I "borrowed" it for a while after that and put down 313whp in my MK4 with the car going lean to boot. I'd say the bearings were stout enough! Hit him up he'll be glad to tell you about it.


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

*Re: (groupracer)*

Getting excited here as I have a new pulley from Noah on the way. Going to a 2.7" pulley notched and sandblasted so maybe less belt slip. Will address a few other issues as well when I put it all back on. If I can address the belt slip and the miss alignment then I may want to go get a dyno test done and see were I am at. HP wise.


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

*Re: (2tone12v)*

if you ever want to part with the 2.25 pulley, i have a 2.7" that i would swap it for....it is the one i got for the stage 2, 8psi on my v9.

_Quote, originally posted by *2tone12v* »_What's goIn on Keith? Thanks for the info buddy! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
now that I have read more pages I have read that the 2.25" pulley is the standard size for vf's stage 3 set up so u say I'll b in trouble if I use it huh?








I didn't even start the install yet and allready want to sell this kit, anyone interested???
Procharger D1-sc is what I should have looked into but this was an impulse last minute puchase.
Or maybe just a cogged 12# setup


----------



## chipper_27 (Jul 23, 2009)

I just bough a C2 used sc kit but the guy didnt have a belt for it. I am removing my a/c compressor, what length of belt do I need? I will be running the 2.5 pulley and maybe the 2.25. Thanks


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

*Re: (angelod307)*


_Quote, originally posted by *angelod307* »_if you ever want to part with the 2.25 pulley, i have a 2.7" that i would swap it for....it is the one i got for the stage 2, 8psi on my v9.



http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (groupracer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *groupracer* »_
You need to talk to Noah from Verdict Motorsports. He rebuilt his v9 with ceramics and ran over 35k miles with them in his Corrado. If memory servers me right he also ran it across country and ran it at Bonneville too. I "borrowed" it for a while after that and put down 313whp in my MK4 with the car going lean to boot. I'd say the bearings were stout enough! Hit him up he'll be glad to tell you about it.









Noah and I talk all the time about SC'd VR's....

Let me clarify my previous statement. Ceramic bearings are fine to run, but because of their design, they are LESS tolerable to thermal stress than an alloy ball bearing. As the temps go up and down, they cycle and become more fragile, or susceptible to a shear-type fracture, which can happen as the thrust load decreases, and then increases suddenly......i.e.- gear change at high rpm's boost.
I have been working with a German Bearing manufacturer, and discussing the SC application, and I am working on validating the best bearing for our chargers. Once I feel comfortable that our choice is correct, I will share more info with the community.
The other issue, I have found is that the bearing cage in most high-speed bearings is NOT made for high themal loads (> 120C) and this is a common failure point for the bearings.....
Again, I think I have the bearing (V1/V2) and if all works well, I will share with you and we can work on crossing over a similar bearing for a V9 unit (can anyone verify the bearing on the high-speed side and post it here).
Thanks.... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

Curiously, ball bearings in turbos are routinely subjected to high thermal loads, but are as we know cooled by the high flow of oil though them. Although they do not experience the high cantilever loads that s/c's experience, they do have there share of issues.
My V9 exploded the inlet side bearing only after about 2500 miles. The fact that Vortech's speed ratings have changed over the years definitely had something to do with it. The bearings they used may have carried a high ABEC rating, it does not necessarily translate to the use of quality materials. ABEC ratings are the most misunderstood aspect of ball bearings. An ABEC7 or 9 bearing may seem like the right bearing to use because of it's perceived quality (9 better than 5 right?), but a ABEC5 might be the better choice because of the bigger clearances between the balls and races.
I agree that cages are most likely the culprit in the bearings failure. The ball bearing (races and balls) may have been able to take the load and thermal stress, but the cage material was definitely lacking.
I have not experienced the issue of less tolerance to shear-type failures with ceramic balls. As a mater of fact, steel balls seem to have more issues with temperature induced stress galling and fracturing than ceramic ball do, as they tend to plasticize and fracture at high temperatures. 
Give me your thoughts on this, and thanks for doing the leg work for everyone here on getting a bearing that will give the s/c community something to look forward to.
And BTW, I should have known you would know Noah!







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (groupracer)*

ABEC rating is very missunderstood...and even I was under many misconceptions about what it means.







But I have been learning....for those readign this trhead there is a very loose correlation between the ABEC rating and a bearings ability to manage loads at speed. It's only one of many factors, but suffice it to say the ABEC rating is more related to qualtiy, than speed ability. As the quality of the beaing goes up (higher ABEC #) the greater the accuracy of the manufacturing tolerances, and this lends the bearing to be able to sustain it's intended load at a higher speed. Now, also there are things like race, ball bearing and cage materials, as well as pre-load, lubrication and bearing case design.....all of this lends to a bearings overall design and the load that it can carry at a certain speed.
this of course it the "Larry Dumbed Down-version" of ABEC ratings.....


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*

http://www.championballbearing....html


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Noah, you are the man! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.LSinLV.* »_ As the quality of the beaing goes up (higher ABEC #) the greater the accuracy of the manufacturing tolerances,

I do not want to misunderstand your statement, but as far as I remember, the balls and races are not designed to be a ABEC5, or 7 or a 9 for that matter, but only after the ball bearing is assembled. Once assembled they are tested for ABEC rating. ABEC1's come off the same assembly line as ABEC9's. Each bearing is tested, or tested to SPC (Statistical Process Control) and depending on torque values and other tests, it would get it's ABEC rating. It would be impossible to manufacture ten's of thousands (or milliions) of ball bearings with the exacting manufacturing tolerances required to make it an ABEC9 for instance.
This is my understanding of the manufacturing process of making ball bearings. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (groupracer)*

For every ones info,
On my old V9 setup
20k @ 6psi running a serp setup
30k @ 8.6psi running cogged
12k @12psi running cogged (107% of the V9's rating. This was done on ceramic ABEC-9 Hybrids)
New V1 is running a 928M impeller & ABEC-9 ceramic Hybrids (target of 17-19psi)
Its still out for debate if the ceramic hybrids are a worthwhile upgrade for these kits. Until they are tested in excess of 30-50k miles the jury is still out. 
Now running closer to the max of the blower output will decrease the lifespan of the bearings. The reason that I leaned towards running the ceramics was that they will last much longer operating at / or near max operational speeds. The surface finish of ceramic balls can be finer allowing for less drag/resistance and heat. Ceramics also have a much smaller thermal expansion rate per deg than the standard steel bearing. 
The ceramic hybrids are bearings with ceramic balls. The whole bearing assembly is not ceramic. 
Some other useful information on bearings
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/...14648
http://www.sme.org/cgi-bin/fin...&&SME



_Modified by [email protected] at 6:31 PM 5-3-2010_


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: ([email protected])*

I http://****************.com/smile/emlove.gif this thread!!!

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.LSinLV.* »_I http://****************.com/smile/emlove.gif this thread!!!

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 









Larry, you looked a little shocked when you saw my setup out at Andy's house back in '07


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_








Larry, you looked a little shocked when you saw my setup out at Andy's house back in '07









LOL!! well.....honestly I was impressed with the cogged set-up.... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

*Re: (chipper_27)*

with ac, 1395mm double 7 rib. and no removal of the ac. it is a tight fit though.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

not only should this thread be a sticky in the forum, it should have the first few posts as FAQ. including info such as ~
Belt sizes, brands, blower models/trims, current options, etc. 
of corse, some typical tuning issues/solutions as well.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (CorradoMagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorradoMagic* »_not only should this thread be a sticky in the forum, it should have the first few posts as FAQ. including info such as ~
Belt sizes, brands, blower models/trims, current options, etc. 
of corse, some typical tuning issues/solutions as well. 


I know. IT seems like every 5-10 posts is a question about belt length. 
PM the original poster and see if he will update.


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

*Re: (.LSinLV.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.LSinLV.* »_
LOL!! well.....honestly I was impressed with the cogged set-up.... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Soon to have the first cogged V2 Si trim in a MK4 GTi!
Looking forward to it, Big kudos to Noah and Phil... I was totally impressed the fist time I saw your set-up Noah...


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: (groupracer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *groupracer* »_
Soon to have the first cogged V2 Si trim in a MK4 GTi!
Looking forward to it, Big kudos to Noah and Phil... I was totally impressed the fist time I saw your set-up Noah...

pft! whateva!


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

*Re:*


_Quote, originally posted by *.LSinLV.* »_
LOL!! well.....honestly I was impressed with the cogged set-up.... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I should have had you take the car out for a spin as well. Andy did try running over a sign in the highway







Well next time I am out in your neck of the woods with the car I will def have you take it out for a spin









_Quote, originally posted by *groupracer* »_
Soon to have the first cogged V2 Si trim in a MK4 GTi!
Looking forward to it, Big kudos to Noah and Phil... I was totally impressed the fist time I saw your set-up Noah...
 
Thanks Evan, your setup has evolved so much over the past couple years. And even better things to come


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

*Re: Re: ([email protected])*

Question for the mk4 vr guys using a short runner....
What r u guys dooing with the valve cover? Just took my intake mani off and I'm gonna use a short runner but this damn valve cover is pretty ugly, r u guys swapping them out for the aluminum mk3 cover??? Anyone has one cheap for me?


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: Re: (2tone12v)*

I went back and used a MKIII (AAA motor) cover.....polished and painted.
I'll be posting pics in the next few days.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: Re: (.LSinLV.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.LSinLV.* »_I went back and used a MKIII (AAA motor) cover.....polished and painted.
I'll be posting pics in the next few days.

pics or ban!!!


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

*Re: Re: (.LSinLV.)*

Thank u sir http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
finally went into the bay and just started ripping stuff out but I have so many questions, like wether to remove SAI or not and how to, what to do with all those damn vaccum lines,......
I'm trying to find mk4 stage 3 vf instalation instructions.
I'm gonna run c2 36# software unless u guys tell me otherwise and do they write out the SAI off the chip so I won't get a CEL?


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: Re: (2tone12v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2tone12v* »_Thank u sir http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
finally went into the bay and just started ripping stuff out but I have so many questions, like wether to remove SAI or not and how to, what to do with all those damn vaccum lines,......
I'm trying to find mk4 stage 3 vf instalation instructions.
I'm gonna run c2 36# software unless u guys tell me otherwise and do they write out the SAI off the chip so I won't get a CEL? 

yes C2 can write you the SAI delete....I have it for mine. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*

x2


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: Re: (2tone12v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2tone12v* »_Question for the mk4 vr guys using a short runner....
What r u guys dooing with the valve cover? Just took my intake mani off and I'm gonna use a short runner but this damn valve cover is pretty ugly, r u guys swapping them out for the aluminum mk3 cover??? Anyone has one cheap for me?
























mk3 AAA valve cover on my MK4 AFP









That is not the most current pic.


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

*Re: Re: (littlenr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *littlenr* »_

mk3 AAA valve cover on my MK4 AFP









That is not the most current pic.

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
what kind of short runner u using? Can't even see it In The pic
is that an overflow reservoir infront of the booster?
Bay is lookin nice http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: Re: (2tone12v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2tone12v* »_
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
what kind of short runner u using? Can't even see it In The pic
is that an overflow reservoir infront of the booster?
Bay is lookin nice http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif









Welll........ I made my own short runner.
it started like this...









Then I powder coated it and changed the angle of the throttle body for clearance issues.









The shiny "can" is my new coolant bottle. I got rid of the plastic one and put the metal one in its place.


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

*Re: Re: (2tone12v)*

Still using my stock valve cover on my MK4
http://i159.photobucket.com/al...8.jpg


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

*Re: Re: (groupracer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *groupracer* »_Still using my stock valve cover on my MK4
http://i159.photobucket.com/al...8.jpg

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif isn't it amazing the difference in the engine sound with the schimmle SRIM!?!?! it sounds so much different!


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

*Re: Re: (littlenr)*

Did you cast that yourself? It looks cast! It resembles some of the lower TB SRI's i've seen here. Looks awsome. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

groupracer said:


> Did you cast that yourself? It looks cast! It resembles some of the lower TB SRI's i've seen here. Looks awsome. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


 

No its welded plate aluminum. I just smoothed the joints to make everything smooth for powder coating.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

new forum interface pissing me off... 

I shredded all but 3 ribs off a belt just a bit ago, so I'm going to need something stronger, it seems. I asked Dan @ 034 about carbon fiber belts and he's checking some stuff out for me. Although currently I have a $16 Valuecraft 6rib belt on there, and the other night I was making full boost every pull. The car was driving faster than I have ever felt it before and the belt seemed to be in good condition when I inspected it afterward. Maybe it likes the cheap-o belts better?


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

Not really feelin the interface either especially now that I need to start the install on this kit, no seArch function sucks how the hell am I supposed to find anything? I can't even find anything for SAI delete in a mk4 12v or if it can even b done


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

There shouldn't be any trick to an SAI delete on a mk4 12v. Just pull the **** out of there and plug the hole. C2 chips have the SAI and EGR written out of it already, so you won't pull a CEL. 

42dd makes a plug for mk3 12vs, so maybe contact them and see if they have a solution for a mk4 12v.


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

Please don't mind my lack of knowledge on all this stuff but I'm trying to learn something 

thanks alot for the info 

Hopefully when I get in touch with Mike ( throttle ) he won't mind lending a hand or atleast come by to check all my stuff and see if I'm missing something, and give me some pointers on what to do and not to do....hopefully


----------



## dubber89 (Feb 2, 2010)

anyone know where i can buy pulleys? im getting my v1 rebuilt, and i currently have a 12 lb pulley, looking for something say 15-16lb? i cant find them anywhere...


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

Try Noah at verdictmotorsports.com


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

dubber89 said:


> anyone know where i can buy pulleys? im getting my v1 rebuilt, and i currently have a 12 lb pulley, looking for something say 15-16lb? i cant find them anywhere...


 boost is NOT the issue......how fast are you looking to spin the V1???? be careful how fast you spin the unit with stock bearings and a cast impeller.....they are not designed to spin above 50K rpm's, and at speeds above that the impeller blades can go supersonic and break apart.....ask me how I know this.  

you can get pulleys from verdict motorsport, summit, poweredbyfords, and superchargerrebuilds


----------



## Jumbopvp (May 1, 2010)

anyone knows where i can get a braket to mount my supercharger V9 on a 2000 vw jetta vr6 12v? i think its called the sc braket.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

verdict motorsports


----------



## dubber89 (Feb 2, 2010)

.LSinLV. said:


> boost is NOT the issue......how fast are you looking to spin the V1???? be careful how fast you spin the unit with stock bearings and a cast impeller.....they are not designed to spin above 50K rpm's, and at speeds above that the impeller blades can go supersonic and break apart.....ask me how I know this.
> 
> you can get pulleys from verdict motorsport, summit, poweredbyfords, and superchargerrebuilds


 please elaborate. I thought a v1 was good for at least 20psi.. How do I know what the speed will be? I don't know much about that. Also who would you recommend getting a rebuild kit from?


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

dubber89 said:


> please elaborate. I thought a v1 was good for at least 20psi.. How do I know what the speed will be? I don't know much about that. Also who would you recommend getting a rebuild kit from?


 todd at superchargerrebuilds.com is great for service and price and so is Carl at 928motorsports.com 

as for speed, use the impeller speed calculator from Vortech: 

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/support.php?support_section=Impeller Speed Calculator 

and boost is NOT proporsional to impeller speed alone....there are several other things that will affect boost; tubling size, length, head flow, exhaust, etc..... 

I forgot, as for rebuild....if you can wait a month or so, I am working on validating a quality high speed bearing for the impeller, that should allow speeds up to 60K rpms...with a buffer of 9K rpms to protect the bearings.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

First post using vbulletin... 

Wow this seems strange!


----------



## Nolig23 (Apr 22, 2005)

so got my car on a dyno yesterday. i've been s/c for 3 weeks now with a few issues that i got ironed out thanks to my good friend mike (-throttle-). here are some specs 

98 gti 

vortech v2 2.87" pulley 
c2 30# software with bosch redtops 
2.9 clone manifold 
c2 4" maf 
2.5" TT/Borla with testpipe by juan8595 
stock head and downpipe. 

made 256whp 236wtq on a mustang dyno at maximum psi in linden. so far i'm happy with the setup. if i can find a means to do so i will scan my dyno chart so that some of you may give some opinions. just figured i'd finally post about my setup. 

edit: here's the dyno chart. on the second run a boost leak surfaced which is why my afr's started off weird.


----------



## Jumbopvp (May 1, 2010)

V9 bracket please


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

Nolig - those are some great numbers on #30 tune! :thumbup:


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

Jumbopvp said:


> V9 bracket please


 your question has been answered. read the thread, don't scan the thread.


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

Damn C, the #'s on that dyno sheet lookin nice. How abou u and mike come by my garage one night this week and check out all my stuff and see if 'm missing something and give me some pointers on this setup??? 
Jim got mike's # for me but I haven't bothered him yet, I'm really in need of some assistance


----------



## Nolig23 (Apr 22, 2005)

Thanks guys I appreciate it. I intend to add a few things on over the next couple of months and see how much more power I can get out of the 30# software.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

Ces, numbers look solid for the setup, and you can get 300whp out of the setup with a few changes. a/f's look decent, but id like to handle any issues you may have, and get back onto a dynojet up here and see where youre at again. im curious, why only rev to 6600rpm and not redline? boost leak become an issue? 

2tone12v - Jim and Ces told me you were looking for me. Where are you located?


----------



## eliosbluejetta (May 1, 2008)

hey everyone just finished installing my setup and boy is it time to tune i am bogging throughout i have a v2 charger c2 software new software sidemount intercooler set up where do i start trying to figure out why im bogging oh and im throwing a throttle code i am using a stock maf housing before the charger distance from the charger is just 90' elbow maf intake than charger goes through piping side mount bov into throttle body can the bov be too close to the throttle body? plugs not properly gapped? arrrrggggg help please


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

eliosbluejetta said:


> hey everyone just finished installing my setup and boy is it time to tune i am bogging throughout i have a v2 charger c2 software new software sidemount intercooler set up where do i start trying to figure out why im bogging oh and im throwing a throttle code i am using a stock maf housing before the charger distance from the charger is just 90' elbow maf intake than charger goes through piping side mount bov into throttle body can the bov be too close to the throttle body? plugs not properly gapped? arrrrggggg help please


 C2 software calls for a 4" maf housing not the stock 3" housing. That will help the rich condition. The BoV should be between the charger and your side mount. Also make sure it is recirculated and not vented to the atmostphere. That air is metered so the car must use it. Or you will run hog rich as well. SO fix these few things and you should be good to go. Gap the plugs to .030 and see where you are then.


----------



## eliosbluejetta (May 1, 2008)

awesome info thanks nate so the bov cant be right before the throttle but between the charger and side mount ok that makes sense ill change that around and see whats going on now do you think the maf may be too close to the charger or shouldnt that really matter


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

eliosbluejetta said:


> awesome info thanks nate so the bov cant be right before the throttle but between the charger and side mount ok that makes sense ill change that around and see whats going on now do you think the maf may be too close to the charger or shouldnt that really matter


 I've herd all kinds of things. For me the maf is 8" and 90degs away from the inlet of the charger. I don't have any of the issued most complain about.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

eliosbluejetta said:


> hey everyone just finished installing my setup and boy is it time to tune i am bogging throughout i have a v2 charger c2 software new software sidemount intercooler set up where do i start trying to figure out why im bogging oh and im throwing a throttle code i am using a stock maf housing before the charger distance from the charger is just 90' elbow maf intake than charger goes through piping side mount bov into throttle body can the bov be too close to the throttle body? plugs not properly gapped? arrrrggggg help please


 
Are you OBD1 or 2? 
OBD1 requires use of original MAF on Corrados, 4" on OBD1 G/j & OBD2. 

You should be using a DV, not a BOV 

Rule of thumb is said to be 18" for MAF from charger, some are also doing another 18" for filter from MAF.


----------



## eliosbluejetta (May 1, 2008)

CorradoMagic said:


> Are you OBD1 or 2?
> OBD1 requires use of original MAF on Corrados, 4" on OBD1 G/j & OBD2.
> 
> You should be using a DV, not a BOV
> ...


ok so DV should be installed before intercooler or after it


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

the dv should be as close to the tb as possible


----------



## Bob barker (May 3, 2005)

Looking for a belt size for my new setup. running a v1 charger with a 9psi pulley and ac. anyone know what belt size i would be needing?


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

what specific pulley size (measure it) and are you running a/c??? MKIII??? MKIV????


----------



## Bob barker (May 3, 2005)

its on an mk3 i dont have the charger near me its at the garage.. do you have an aprox size? ill just get a whole bunch of belts and test fit!


----------



## eliosbluejetta (May 1, 2008)

bob barker said:


> its on an mk3 i dont have the charger near me its at the garage.. Do you have an aprox size? Ill just get a whole bunch of belts and test fit!


are you using a single or dual idler pulley i have a dual idler pully and used 61" belt


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

re-subscribing. hi!


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

Can I run GIAC stage2 software without a MAF clamp without any problems? I have a OBD1 coilpack VR6 with v9 charger.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

vdubbed said:


> Can I run GIAC stage2 software without a MAF clamp without any problems? I have a OBD1 coilpack VR6 with v9 charger.


In order for it to run correctly, you will need the MAF clamp.


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

what happens when you use the maf clamp and c2 software.


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

What symptoms can I expect if the MAF clamp is not on? Thanks for the reply!


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

tracking!


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

im back to work......... i will get pics. also 3k since i rebuilt the charger, all is smooth


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

vdubbed said:


> What symptoms can I expect if the MAF clamp is not on? Thanks for the reply!


 running the GIAC software w/o the clamp will likely result in rich conditions.
- my therory. the clamp reduced voltage seen my the ecu. the original maps are written for a reduced volated(clamped) & matched fueling. Having not clamped/reduced should cause rich conditions. (?)
You will also likely hit the load limits of the MAF causing a 'dead/rev. limiter' feeling due to cut fuel. 
more so on the OBD1 systems


----------



## eliosbluejetta (May 1, 2008)

*BOOST?*

How much boost are you guys seeing through the gears 1-5


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

eliosbluejetta said:


> How much boost are you guys seeing through the gears 1-5


such a vague question. It depends on the pulley size and rpm we are at.


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

CorradoMagic said:


> running the GIAC software w/o the clamp will likely result in rich conditions.
> - my therory. the clamp reduced voltage seen my the ecu. the original maps are written for a reduced volated(clamped) & matched fueling. Having not clamped/reduced should cause rich conditions. (?)
> You will also likely hit the load limits of the MAF causing a 'dead/rev. limiter' feeling due to cut fuel.
> more so on the OBD1 systems


Thanks thats what I thought. I was driving it with no MAF clamp on and not really noticing a difference except it did smell like it is running rich. Plus I haven't even taken it over 4500RPM yet anyway. Just 2 miles here 2 miles there type thing.


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

So, my car has been running a little on the rich side as of lately so I picked up a testpipe, tt downpipes and new o2s, hopefully it will help with my fuel economy... but more importantly power, any one having good luck with the DPs and seeing good gains... I know VRs are kind of notorious for not making much, if anything with headers so... I wasnt sure how this would react...


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

I put on the TT DP on my SC VR6 and could immediately tell a difference. The car ddef move the air faster and feels a lot more aggressive. In my opinion they are well worth the money and offer great gains!


----------



## eliosbluejetta (May 1, 2008)

*low boost arrrrg*

hey everyone just took the car out for the first highway run and really disappointed 3lbs of boost achieved so this is what i got v2 charger c2 (new) software,30#inj, 4" MAF , smic off of a TT with 2.5 inch piping no DV nor BOV i rotated the housing so that i could route the piping down through the front of the car. what do you guys think is going wrong car feels extremely smooth but low boost mk3 12v vr6 obd2 dsr 256 cams mk4 hg no hesitations


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

boost leak/ belt slip


----------



## eliosbluejetta (May 1, 2008)

would the belt slip all through from start to finish?


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

it could.....how tight did you tension the belt??? can you turn it more than 45 degrees???


----------



## eliosbluejetta (May 1, 2008)

no its on there snug the only thing i can think of is the way i routed the belt over the idler pulley and not giving the charger enough tension hmmmm time to get a little longer belt and wrapping the belt under the idler


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

Just waiting on a new pulley from Noah. - Hope to get it in the next week or two.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

eliosbluejetta said:


> no its on there snug the only thing i can think of is the way i routed the belt over the idler pulley and not giving the charger enough tension hmmmm time to get a little longer belt and wrapping the belt under the idler


wait, you put the belt over the idler, giving the supercharger pulley less wrap?


----------



## eliosbluejetta (May 1, 2008)

duh i know it was a very long night that night dont judge me monkey lol another question i want to install a diverter valve now the return should it go before or after the mass air?:banghead:


----------



## slvr bullet (Aug 23, 2005)

eliosbluejetta said:


> should it go before or after the mass air?:banghead:


 after maf befor charger


----------



## lavaheadache (May 16, 2006)

the intercooler is likely robbing you of 2 psi


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

lavaheadache said:


> the intercooler is likely robbing you of 2 psi


how do you know this???? most IC's are far more efficient thatn that.....unless it's some really cheap ebay item....


----------



## lavaheadache (May 16, 2006)

i know it because i put on a 27x9x2.5 intercooler on my mk4 vr6 vf stage 2 and lost 2.5 psi. I peak at 5.5psi. I'm in the process of reverting back to non intercooled status. wish i didn't cut my stock pipes


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

I think I lost maybe .5-1 PSi in the intercooler I built and added to my machine. It is all in the design and sizing of the core. You want a LOT of square inches for the air to move into as that is what slows velocity down and as speed of flow drops so does the pressure lose.

With our supercharger systems avoiding pressure lose is very important.


----------



## 1LIFEtoDuB (Feb 4, 2008)

how do you tell the trim of a V1 if its not stamped?


----------



## Flyweight (Jan 15, 2007)

*2200 rpm hesitation*

Unfortunately my C2 chipped 30# car has developed a strong hesitation at 2200 rpm. The MAF is located about 4 feet (yes you read correctly) from the charger. The car has a new MAF, new O2 sensors, a new C2 supercharger 30# chip, a new coilpack, and new spark plugs. I am running out of ideas. Help!

Thanks,

Andrew


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

Flyweight said:


> Unfortunately my C2 chipped 30# car has developed a strong hesitation at 2200 rpm. The MAF is located about 4 feet (yes you read correctly) from the charger. The car has a new MAF, new O2 sensors, a new C2 supercharger 30# chip, a new coilpack, and new spark plugs. I am running out of ideas. Help!
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Andrew


thats' c2 for ya LOL. How far is the filter from the maf?


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

eliosbluejetta said:


> hey everyone just took the car out for the first highway run and really disappointed 3lbs of boost achieved so this is what i got v2 charger c2 (new) software,30#inj, 4" MAF , smic off of a TT with 2.5 inch piping no DV nor BOV i rotated the housing so that i could route the piping down through the front of the car. what do you guys think is going wrong car feels extremely smooth but low boost mk3 12v vr6 obd2 dsr 256 cams mk4 hg no hesitations


wait a min..
Why dont you have a DV on your car? DV is correct, you dont want a BOV.
But you NEED a DV. the excess air pressure must be let off/allowed to escape when the TB closes. the back pressure will ruin your charger fast! 

..and where are you tapped in for your gauge reading?


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

i put a vf kit on my corrado few months ago, today i turn it on and i hear a very loud whining noise , the alternator seems to vibrate more then the blower , i assume its coming from the alternator pulley, the alternator has about 200k miles on it, maybe from the tension and it just gave up ? hrmm has anyone had loud whining noises before in that area. Don't want to drive it, i will be swapping n alternator soon


----------



## Flyweight (Jan 15, 2007)

The filter is attached almost directly to the MAF...could this lead to a hesitation at 2200 rpm?


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

My filter is connected directly to the MAF and I haven't had any issues.


----------



## vwsport173 (Jan 18, 2003)

Wow just finished reading every page of this thread. Took a while

I've been running a stage 2 VF kit on my MKIV for about two and a half years now. When I installed the kit I never installed the maf clamp and for some reason totally forgot about it until reading through this thread. I never felt anything wrong with the car but am debating if i should put it on now. Other than running rich are there any other symptoms of running without it?

Also in one of the posts it's mentioned that Eurodyne might be coming out with software for us? Are there any updates on this? 

I plan on upgrading my setup soon with higher psi pulley(maybe a verdict cogged setup), water/meth. cams and a few other upgrades and don't really want to go standalone. So is C2 my only option right now? Seems like it from the posts.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

vwsport173 said:


> Wow just finished reading every page of this thread. Took a while
> 
> I've been running a stage 2 VF kit on my MKIV for about two and a half years now. When I installed the kit I never installed the maf clamp and for some reason totally forgot about it until reading through this thread. I never felt anything wrong with the car but am debating if i should put it on now. Other than running rich are there any other symptoms of running without it?
> 
> ...


This thread certainly contains a lot of info, but is definitely worth while reading.

Which MK4 do you currently own (12v, 24v, R32)? Eurodyne is in the works, but an ETA on when it'll be available has yet to be determined.

Seeing as you've read through the thread, you know the V9 can be rather limited depending on you horsepower goals. Be sure to stay under max impeller speed and it'll last a while. Over spin it and you'll be looking at new bearings or possibly even a new blower. 

Good luck, and keep the thread posted with your project! - Phil


----------



## vwsport173 (Jan 18, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> This thread certainly contains a lot of info, but is definitely worth while reading.
> 
> Which MK4 do you currently own (12v, 24v, R32)? Eurodyne is in the works, but an ETA on when it'll be available has yet to be determined.
> 
> ...


Thanks and its a 12v. Yeah I had realized the V9 was limited back when VF's forums still existed(not sure if they still do, but I can't find them). This car will always be my daily so I'm not planning on crazy numbers and from what I read in this thread I think it should be sufficient. 

What are people's opinions on the maf clamp? Is it a necessity? It's been two years so its going to take some digging to find it, if I still have it. I remember back on the VF forums some were running without it without any problem and that's why I avoided it at first with the idea I'll eventually get it installed. I just found my VF install manual so I should be able to get it installed if its deemed a neccesity and I manage to find it lol.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

i bought my stage 2 kit used and tried to instal the maf clamp and it never worked correctly. i had a few codes thrown with it so i deceided to ditch it and see what would happen. The car has been that way for about 2 years with no problems


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

Noah, Phil do you guys know how much MAF voltage the GIAC/VF-E MAF clamp actually reduces? 
On the 3" Rado MAF 5V is max. GIAC obviously remapped the fuel to match the clamped/lower volatage, I wonder by how much?

or maybe it can be calculated by how rich (A/F ratio) is w/o it? ..then again some of this will be recalculated by the O2 sensor/Ecu


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

mk4vrjtta said:


> i bought my stage 2 kit used and tried to instal the maf clamp and it never worked correctly. i had a few codes thrown with it so i deceided to ditch it and see what would happen. The car has been that way for about 2 years with no problems


VF/GIAC never intended the MKIV to use the MAF clamp, as the SW and the ECU in the ME 7.X could better deal with the fuel and ignition maps, than the earlier versions of Motronic and the older ECU's with limited computing power.

that's the good/bad with a more modern OBDII ECU running 32 bit processors.....they work great at dealing with fueling and ignition on an FI'd set-up...but it requires a major amount of tuning work to get all the maps modified correctly, and for the car's to run smoothly.


----------



## vwsport173 (Jan 18, 2003)

Well I dug up my maf clamp this morning. I guess its nothing to hard to install so I'll try and install it and see if I notice a difference.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

.LSinLV. said:


> VF/GIAC never intended the MKIV to use the MAF clamp, as the SW and the ECU in the ME 7.X could better deal with the fuel and ignition maps, than the earlier versions of Motronic and the older ECU's with limited computing power.
> 
> that's the good/bad with a more modern OBDII ECU running 32 bit processors.....they work great at dealing with fueling and ignition on an FI'd set-up...but it requires a major amount of tuning work to get all the maps modified correctly, and for the car's to run smoothly.


thanks for clearing that up :thumbup:


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

CorradoMagic said:


> wait a min..
> Why dont you have a DV on your car? DV is correct, you dont want a BOV.
> But you NEED a DV. the excess air pressure must be let off/allowed to escape when the TB closes. the back pressure will ruin your charger fast!
> ..and where are you tapped in for your gauge reading?


the AMS kits were sold w/o DV. My car has been run like that for 5+ years on the same charger and 4+ on the factory bearings, which ended up not being the source of a noise i was hunting. I do want to add a dv in however, but its hard w/ a post s/c MAF setup.


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

I recently got a V9 Charger (VF brackets) for my mk3, it came with what i assume is an idler pulley bracket, but has no pulleys on it, it appears to bolt where the alt. bolts.

I have the charger installed but the 61" belt (6psi pulley) i was told to use with ac it way to long (missing idlers i assume) Right now i have a 6rib 56" belt installed, i haven't gotten everything else finished but i'm worried about the belt jumping side to side so i'd like to figure out what i need to make the setup 100%


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

Does your idler look like this? with only one idler pulley?

if so it is not intended for the V9 charger on teh VFE bracketry, I tried it. I bought it in Error.

post up a pic of what it looks like though, I'm curious to see it


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

I got the car running tonight, ended up using a 6rib 56" belt for right now, hope it doesn't put to much load on the alt. or WP but only time will tell, the car doesn't feel like i think it should, acutally it feel slow, really slow.
Here is what i have
99 MK3 Jetta
262 Autotech cams
MK4 HG
FMIC
V9 with 6lb pulley (un sure of size)
C2 Stage I chip
4" maf housing
Larger Injectors (not sure what size, the PO of the kit was running them)
Forge DV with unknown spring

I haven't hooked a boost gauge up so i'm unsure of boost. 

Problems.
Car surges really bad at idle
Little to no power
very delayed throttle response

Things i've tryed so far
Different maf sensor
put stock injectors in (thinking the ones i had were to big for that low of boost) So far thats made the biggest difference.

I'm getting no codes, i think at this point i may be down to just a set of fouled plugs so i'm going to try that tomorrow. 

Regardless here is pics of that idler bracket and a pic of the car just for fun


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Chris- Try it with out that intercooler. It didn't work for Jimmy either. But I know that charger is strong as isht. IT was my at one point. I bet the intercooler and pipes are jacked up some how. You can rotate the compressor housing by loosening the v-band. Then it will discharge up close to your throttle body. 

I'd try that first. You are at low enough boost to not really need the intercooler. With the dv recirculated by to the intake post maf and see what you get.


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

Can't believe I didn't know about this thread until now. You guys really know your stuff, and I defenitely have a few questions.

Im running a VF Stage 2 "7.5psi" V9 kit, with the intercooler, on a 24v VR6. Still the original pulley and GIAC software. As far as fueling, the kit included a new in tank fuel pump, injectors, and FPR. Im not sure on the specs on those pieces, I need to find out, if anyone knows that would be great.

Pic from a few months ago, a bit different now:









I just got the blower back from Vortech for a warranty rebuild after only 10k miles, complete hassle that took over a month.

I've read a bit about water-meth in this thread. I know there is a pressure drop across the intercooler. Would it be smart to ditch the intercooler and run water-meth? Any negative affect due to the tuning? I know I need both a A/F ratio gauge and a boost gauge, my car has been going through a massive build in every aspect, and little things like that just keep getting overlooked due to cost, and more pressing issues.

I need to swap in some colder plugs too.

I also looked into the lightweight crank pulley that ECS carries. It is the same size as the stock pulley, just lighter. Good or bad idea?

I am currently running a Techtonics 2.5" Catback. I have been interested in addressing the cat and forward. There are no off the shelf test pipes for the 24v. Also, the only downpipe available is the Techtonics dual 2.5", which isnt even much bigger than the stock piece. I feel like it is made for N/A applications, and I could benefit from a larger piece. I would also like to pick up a set of the stock manifolds and DIY gasket match them. Not too excited about swapping any of these parts though, its a pain in the ass, especially on the mk4.

Another thing I did was swap the stupid hose clamps for the silicone connectors for proper T-bolt clamps. I had issues blowing off the silicone couplings with the hose clamps included with the VF kit, leaving me stranded more than once until a friend came with the tools I needed to remove my bumper and headlight to fix the problem. Im also running a catch can to save the MAF, because oil dripping on the MAF is an issue with this kit.

I would like to get a different tune next summer, and swap to a smaller pulley at the same time. I deleted my EVAP system, so I will need a new tune that removes the CEL for that. The off the shelf offerings for the 24v are difficult to get info on.

I am also interested in oil coolers. Im not sure how to route it, there isnt much info out there for the 24v and dealing with the stock oil cooler.

My dream setup involves using an R32 head on my 2.8 block, and if I was lucky, combined with cams and headwork. This has been done with both N/A and turbo applications, no S/C as far as I know. Most of the 24v forum tries to say its not worth it, but if the head is sourced at a reasonable price, it could definetly be worth it.
My reasoning (did some calculations one time, dont have the numbers with me):
-The 3.2l engine makes 240-250hp in stock form, as compared to the ~200hp of the 2.8. More importantly, the R32 has a higher hp/liter. This is due to the better flowing head.
-The heads have been tested for flow which proves this.
-The R32 in supercharged form makes significantly MORE power on significantly (percentage wise) LESS boost.
In order to do this head swap, the R32 intake manifold (or a custom one that fits it) and throttle body must be used. No off the shelf tune will work here.


I probably have more questions, but I cant remember everything at once :laugh: If anyone has any suggestions or insight, that would be much appreciated


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

Welcome!!!

Seems like your on the right track. Flow is one of the most important parts of getting the most out of your SC setup. 

:beer:

Noah


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

Ok, so i got it running correctly. I ditched the IC, half assed a pipe from charger to TB and i have boost, it pulls pretty hard. My new problems are as follows

Car doesn't want to hold a steady idle
When i'm at a constant throttle it bucks and misses really bad

My questions that may fix what i currently have wrong 

Does it matter where the Outlet for the DV is on the charge pipe?
Does it mater where the DV returns post maf is there a to close or to far?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

cjm722 said:


> Ok, so i got it running correctly. I ditched the IC, half assed a pipe from charger to TB and i have boost, it pulls pretty hard. My new problems are as follows
> 
> Car doesn't want to hold a steady idle
> When i'm at a constant throttle it bucks and misses really bad
> ...


Check for any vac leaks, check codes...most likely its a bad o2 sensor.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

dv return could be too close to the maf, maf too close to charger e.c.t if it runs smooth under moderate load then its most likely maf placement/ dv placement


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

VRDukin - I'd stay away from any under-drive crank pulley when using an S/C as you will LOOSE boost, unless you go LARGER on the S/C pulley.

:thumbup:


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

Yeah, defenitely not doing underdrive. I actually read about some mustang guys using larger crank pulleys to increase boost without swapping the charger pulley, I wish that was an option for us.

This is what I was thinking, its not underdrive, just a lighter stock-size pulley.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV--VR6_24v/Engine/Pulleys/ES2536/


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

vrDUCKin said:


> Yeah, defenitely not doing underdrive. I actually read about some mustang guys using larger crank pulleys to increase boost without swapping the charger pulley, I wish that was an option for us.
> 
> This is what I was thinking, its not underdrive, just a lighter stock-size pulley.
> http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV--VR6_24v/Engine/Pulleys/ES2536/


:thumbup: my only concern with that would be the ability of the lighter pulley to handle the additional belt load that the charger puts on all of the pulleys, especially as you increase tension to combat slip at higher boost levels.

I have no real experience with this, just my opinion.


----------



## lavaheadache (May 16, 2006)

where are you guys getting the 12v (keyed on) power source for your Maf clamps?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

cjm722 said:


> Car doesn't want to hold a steady idle
> When i'm at a constant throttle it bucks and misses really bad





cjm722 said:


> Here is what i have
> 
> C2 Stage I chip


:banghead:

good luck figuring this out. this is the plague, right here. i went standalone to solve mine. I would say try to run stock GIAC software if you can, before going out and spending tons of money replacing sensors. I replaced every single one in my car and never found a solution. that is until i got standalone.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

cjm722 said:


> I got the car running tonight, ended up using a 6rib 56" belt for right now, hope it doesn't put to much load on the alt. or WP but only time will tell, the car doesn't feel like i think it should, acutally it feel slow, really slow.
> Here is what i have
> 99 MK3 Jetta
> 262 Autotech cams
> ...


It almost sounds like you've got a boost or large vacuum leak.

I would start by installing a boost gauge to check your vacuum at idle. That will help diagnose issues with the setup.

The intercooler is way overkill for your setup and isn't necessary for anything under 12psi and anything over that the v9 is being over spun anyways. I would suggest removing it and plumbing the charger right to the t/b. This will also increase your throttle response exponentially. 

What fuel pressure regulator are you currently running?

Plugs could very well be an issue, but I don't think thats your entire problem. If you have vagcom you can check for misfires per cylinder. 

Also seeing as you're new to supercharger ownership I would HIGHLY suggest on getting in the routine of replacing plugs every oil change or between 3-5k miles. You will notice an increase in power and overall miles per gallon.



obdONE said:


> :banghead:
> 
> good luck figuring this out. this is the plague, right here. i went standalone to solve mine. I would say try to run stock GIAC software if you can, before going out and spending tons of money replacing sensors. I replaced every single one in my car and never found a solution. that is until i got standalone.


Only downside to running GIAC is he's going to run lean with the 262s up top.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

[email protected] said:


> Only downside to running GIAC is he's going to run lean with the 262s up top.


 I only meant that as a manner of diagnosing a problem, since I am of the opinion that 99% of the time, the fault lies in the C2 software. If he can change out his fueling, to something that we at least know runs "properly", then we can immediately say yay or nay to the C2 debaucle being the culprit here. 

That being said, if he doesn't have access to GIAC, my suggestion won't do him any good. 

Unfortunately, cjm722, this is likely to cause you a lot of money and headache to diagnose / resolve, so I again wish you luck. :beer:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Chris is local to me. I've given him plenty of support. His intercooler had a massive hole in it. Problem solved!!


----------



## R36Dreams (Jun 14, 2006)

Wow.Insane amount of info on here guys. Awesome thread! 
I'll be ordering the VF-E stage 1 in about a month, maybe less for my 24V. I do have the ECS pulleys but they're not installed yet. I'm actually going to try and have NGP do the install of the kit for me. 
When I can find the time, I'll read through the entire thread, but until then, here's my questions. 
What else should I get or you recommend prior to the install? I've seen a lot about coolder plugs, different injectors etc. 
Currently have the stock airbox, but I think I have a problem with my intake manifold (upper). When I tap the gas, I get the usual VW "flexing", but I also hear a sucking sound. Yeah, I know, I know.....but no, it's not the airbox. I've removed that and it works properly. It sounds like it's coming from under the intake manifold. Maybe a crack? You can't hear it under full throttle, only when "tapping" the gas. 
I could probably post that question anywhere, but this is the one spot I've seen the most VR knowledge on here. And it's something I need to address before installing this kit.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

R36, 
What is your idle vacuum pressure? 
You should install a vacuum/boost gauge before you install this kit. You'll want it anyhow. 

Its quite common for the plastic type intakes to have cracks. My friend blew his R32 motor due to running lean w/ his HPA kit. (different conditions, but unsafe results regardless) 

Yes, 1 stage colder plugs would be advised. 

Your kit should come w/ the required injectors. 30# 
I'd recommend replacing all the intake gaskets as well. 
Now is the time to do preventative maintenance. replace your fuel filter, all vacuum lines, intake gasket, etc. :thumbup:


----------



## vdubbed (Jan 25, 2002)

good to see a bunch new Supercharged guys/gals  in here:thumbup:


----------



## eliosbluejetta (May 1, 2008)

*grrrrrrrr*

OK GOING NUTS TODAY IDLER PULLEY COMPLETLY BROKE OFF AND CHEWED UP MY BELT WHAT THE HELL ID GOING ON WASNT EVEN IN BOOST I WAS CITY DRIVING PLEASE HELP ON WHERE TO FIND NEW PULLEY AND MAYBE A REASON WHY THIS IS HAPPENING 2ND BELT SNAPPING FIRST TIME IDLER PULLEY SNAPPED OFF


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

are you running a Vortech idler?? if so, contact Todd @ superchargerrebuilds.com 

if you are running something else, contact Phil @ verdictmotorsports.com 

:thumbup:


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

eliosbluejetta said:


> OK GOING NUTS TODAY IDLER PULLEY COMPLETLY BROKE OFF AND CHEWED UP MY BELT WHAT THE HELL ID GOING ON WASNT EVEN IN BOOST I WAS CITY DRIVING PLEASE HELP ON WHERE TO FIND NEW PULLEY AND MAYBE A REASON WHY THIS IS HAPPENING 2ND BELT SNAPPING FIRST TIME IDLER PULLEY SNAPPED OFF


 Chances are your idler was on its way out and caused the first belt to fail. Then this time around the idler probably seized and took the belt out. Are you losing ribs off the belt? If no then its not an alignment issue and once you get a new idler swapped in you should be golden.


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

What size pulley do i need to run 8lbs on a V9 on a mk3?


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> It almost sounds like you've got a boost or large vacuum leak.
> 
> I would start by installing a boost gauge to check your vacuum at idle. That will help diagnose issues with the setup.
> 
> .


 Thanks for all the advice, as nate said the IC was junk, i do plan on running 12lbs in the near future, so i'll plan on putting back on when i get there. 

As of right now, every thing is running great, I'm not sure if this is normal but i'm only seeing 4-5lbs til labout 6700 then i see 6lbs. I put in some NGK R5671A-7 and that took care of most of my other problems. 

My next step since i already have the injectors for it, is i might as well put an 8lb pulley on the car till i get the IC set up all figured out. 

Where can i get the v9 stage 2 pulley for 8psi?


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

I have a bunch of Vortech/VF pulleys of different diameters....not sure which one you need.....Phil/Nate can you chime in with what diamters produce what boost levels??? 

anyone??? this would be good info to have in this thread. :thumbup:


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

Not sure if this helps, but I had a VF 24v Stage 2 kit. The 2.67" pulley gave me 7.5-8 psi. Larry, if you still have your pulley from your MKIV 12v stage 3, that should be the same one. 

EDIT: Stage 2


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

Lew_Dog said:


> Not sure if this helps, but I had a VF 24v Stage 2 kit. The 2.67" pulley gave me 7.5-8 psi. Larry, if you still have your pulley from your MKIV 12v stage 3, that should be the same one.


 I thought stage 3 was 12psi? 

I don't feel safe running 12psi with no IC 

Hence why i wanted to run 8-9psi


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

I just looked at VF's site. You are correct. The MKIV 12v Stage 2 boosts at 8PSI. So if Larry ever ran a stage 2 kit, he should have that 2.67" pulley.


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

Larry, share yer pulley .... k thanks...


----------



## Nolig23 (Apr 22, 2005)

cjm722 said:


> I don't feel safe running 12psi with no IC


 
I am without issues.


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

cjm722 said:


> What size pulley do i need to run 8lbs on a V9 on a mk3?


 
the kind that i have to sell, haha. 2.75"


----------



## hammeredGLI (Dec 15, 2005)

looking to s/c my mkiv r32, 

any advice on kits, things to use, not to use... things to look for. 

any examples in this thread i could reference?


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

yeah yeah... I know... "not yet another belt question"!! 

I've got my size (~61") and I've done a manual find on each of the 78 pages in this thread for the word "belt". OMG there's a lot of redundancy! I would have used the forum search, but it SUCKS!! 

My question, however, is about running a single sided belt (ie. gatorback) on the dual idler VR serp set-up. I'm running all accessories, so the back side will contact a ribbed pulley. I'm worried about this shredding the belt. Has anybody experienced this? Or is it nothing to worry about? I'm having a heck of a time finding the right belt online... most are either too short or single sided. 

So far the part numbers I could find in this thread are only for Gatorback belts. 

#4080605 8PK1535 -> 60.5" eff. / 61.25" outer 
#4080610 8PK1550 -> 61" eff. / 61.75" outer 

Any other PN's out ther for other brands? ESPECIALLY known dual-sided ribbed belts (7 or 8 ribs)? 


•And if you are going to post to ask what belt length you need for your set-up... run a damn string to measure your effective length!! 



OH YEAH... what is the bolt size, length, and thread pitch for the bolt that holds the pulley to the charger shaft (V2 if it matters)? From searching I think it's a 3/8" 24 pitch.


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

This week I am in the process of buying my VF engineering Stage II SC, My goal is to get as close as possible to 300WHP. The charger is a v9…. yes I know they are usually not known for making mass amounts of power. But I am getting this charger at a great deal with rebuilt bearings (ABEC-9). My question to you all is what are the numbers you guys are putting down with your v9 charger on the 12v set ups also what are your specs. Right now all I will be running is 

Auto tech 262’s 
Magnaflow cat back exhaust (2.5 inch) 
TT down pipes 

I have head work in store for the winter phase


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

lotar_6 said:


> OH YEAH... what is the bolt size, length, and thread pitch for the bolt that holds the pulley to the charger shaft (V2 if it matters)? From searching I think it's a 3/8" 24 pitch.


 3/8-24 is correct for V1/V2/V9


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

Does anyone know the specs on the fuel pump and injectors that were included with my VF Stage 2 kit for the 2.8 24v? If not I will email VF, but I like to avoid doing that more than I have to:laugh: 

Im trying to figure out if I can safely up the boost a bit with the existing tune, the GIAC tune that came with the kit. I am also seriously considering getting rid of the intercooler and going with W/M, but Im not sure how that would react with the tune either.


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

In the past, when people asked VF about injector size, they got denied. Since they are done with the kits, maybe they will let you in on the secret. I remmeber seeing it somewhere on here and want to say something in the range of 330cc, but it's a guess...The injectors are already close to the top end of their duty cycle. I know of one 24v stage 2 running cams, it's leaning out up top. Hit up Mr. Rictus. He went with a C2 fueling kit when he upped the boost on his 24v Stage 2. 

Got this off VF's site regarding the fuel pump: 

"• Custom in-tank direct replacement OEM high flow fuel pump (rated to 420+hp)" 

Not sure if that helps, there it is..


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

Well thats a disappointment. I was hoping to be able to make a little more power without much work for the time being, before I go further with it. 

I'll just wait in that case. The car will need to be re-tuned in about a year, because I need to have the EVAP CEL taken care of. I was going to use that as a chance to go with a better tune and a bit more boost.


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

You could do cams. AS long as you got a proper tune for it.. VF (by the way of GIAC) will write you a cam file...For BIG $$$$$ of course...  I would hit up Sean or Nik to confirm.


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

That is something I would like to do in the future. However, I would prefer not to have to deal with VF anymore. 

When they shipped me the blower, the oil feed fitting was positioned so that it hit a hood, and dented it. I ignored it and fixed it, since the car was primered anyway, but in trying to remove the fitting to rotate it, it broke. I called VF and they said that they offer an upgraded stainless fitting to replace the brass one, since it is a common issue. I ordered that, and they said it would ship immediately. 

It did not ship immediately. They made excuses galore about how they were waiting for the part, and that they were "busy on the show circuit." What a horrible excuse:screwy: My car was left NOT RUNNING for over a month. 

Also, Vortech took over a month to do a warranty repair on my blower that blew its bearings/seals with only 10k miles on it. Again, my only car off the road for over a month. 

VF and Vortech are two companies that I do not want to deal with again, especially if dealing with them involves me spending money. And considering how poor VF's customer service was when they actually were making this kit, I could only imagine now, where they have no reason to care at all.


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

Understood...I guess I'm a one off, cause I have had nothing but excellent customer service from them. Parts always shipped out on time, replied to my emails and VMs timely. Consider me lucky I guess... 

In that case, you could always hit up C2 and have them make you a custom cam tune... :thumbup:


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

That seems like its going to be the plan. Just need to save up some money and wait for some time that I can have the car off the road for a bit. I would like to go with a fueling kit that will allow for continuing upgrades in the future. I doubt cams will come immediately, just the EVAP/SAI delete, slightly more boost, and maybe W/M.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

cjm722 said:


> Where can i get the v9 stage 2 pulley for 8psi?


 VF Stage 2 pulley for the V9 charger is 2.7" Dia. 7-rib and it produces ~8psi. 

I have one like this one for sale currently: 










This is actually a picture of my custom 2.5" pulley, but the one I have for sale has the same treatment. It is a Vortech 8-rib 2.75" pulley. I ran it on my car for several months with no issues and just recently cut the grooves in it for a bit more belt traction. 

let me know if you're interested in it. 

-Jamie 

oh, and to round out the question, my 2.5" 8-rib makes about 11 psi at red-line, if the belt doesn't slip at all. 

I think the stage 1 pulley was 3.125" and made 6psi, but I could be wrong about that one.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

hammeredGLI said:


> looking to s/c my mkiv r32,
> 
> any advice on kits, things to use, not to use... things to look for.
> 
> any examples in this thread i could reference?


 
you're kidding me with this, right? There's 78 pages of information just waiting for you to access it.


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

anyone ?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

all my stats are in my sig above your post. You might come decently close to 300whp, if you're running a mk4. mk3 won't come close. obviously you won't run 262s on GIAC software, so what fueling are you using? 

good luck, it's a slippery slope. as much as I love my blower (and I do), if I had it to do all over again, I would run away shrieking. any goal of 300whp or above should only involve a turbo, imo, unless you just really want the "scene points" (which there will be none) of making 300whp on a blower.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

Just a useful bit of info for the MK3 C2 and AMS users out there, Dayco belt part number 5070610 works well with a dual idler set up and smaller pullies. Dayco belts seem to run just a tad thicker and have more substance to them, less prone to stretching and having to adjust tension.


----------



## R36Dreams (Jun 14, 2006)

Does anyone have the C2 high-flow intake manifold? If so, can I see a pic of it installed on a 24v? Also, if I'm only going stg 1, is it worth it over the stock intake manifold (mine is currently cracked and I'm having a hell of a time finding one). 

Also, with the DIY's jacked, I can't find anything on changing out the pulleys. Primarily the crank pulley. I have the lightweight set from ECS, but I don't want to get under there and realize I don't have everything I need to do it. 

My s/c looks like it's going to be delayed, so I want to do all the other prep work now.....pulleys, intake, plugs, suspension etc.


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

obdONE said:


> all my stats are in my sig above your post. You might come decently close to 300whp, if you're running a mk4. mk3 won't come close. obviously you won't run 262s on GIAC software, so what fueling are you using?
> 
> good luck, it's a slippery slope. as much as I love my blower (and I do), if I had it to do all over again, I would run away shrieking. any goal of 300whp or above should only involve a turbo, imo, unless you just really want the "scene points" (which there will be none) of making 300whp on a blower.


 

, there goes my hopes lol. I will be running a custom tune from driversport INC, a local shop by me. They where able to make 309 on rictus 24v so i can see where you coming from that it will be very hard to get there on a 12v, But hey im shooting for the stars. Are there few to none out there right now that have done it on 12v's mkiv ? ive been searching i think i have saw one mby two


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

Dunkfan914 said:


> , there goes my hopes lol. I will be running a custom tune from driversport INC, a local shop by me. They where able to make 309 on rictus 24v so i can see where you coming from that it will be very hard to get there on a 12v, But hey im shooting for the stars. Are there few to none out there right now that have done it on 12v's mkiv ? ive been searching i think i have saw one mby two


 Jettset, myself, and a few others are well into the 300+whp range, but it will take $$$ and if you are running a V9, expect to rebuild it often as you will need to compensate boost for volume; as the larger V1/V2's can push 15% more air over a V9, all other things being equal. 

tune will be critical, as well as every other possible mod.


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

.LSinLV. said:


> Jettset, myself, and a few others are well into the 300+whp range, but it will take $$$ and if you are running a V9, expect to rebuild it often as you will need to compensate boost for volume; as the larger V1/V2's can push 15% more air over a V9, all other things being equal.
> 
> tune will be critical, as well as every other possible mod.


 thats a +, right now the charger is fresh on ABEC-9 bearings. Do you have a thread to where you have your mods listed of your set up. As far as the money right now i am not going to dump tons and tons into it. But for a winter project i will start to get in to it. Right now i just want to slap the kit on finish my wheel set up and paint my bora front bumper (oem). Than well work on the winter phase.


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

soon starting


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

Can i get some pics of you guys running VF bracket V9 on an mk3.. i'm thinking about re-doing my intake pipe to avoid having to worry about driving in thuderstroms any more. Currently it 90s out of the charger and stright down to a 4" maf housing and a filter right around the top of the front lip inside the bumper.


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

cjm722 said:


> Can i get some pics of you guys running VF bracket V9 on an mk3.. i'm thinking about re-doing my intake pipe to avoid having to worry about driving in thuderstroms any more. Currently it 90s out of the charger and stright down to a 4" maf housing and a filter right around the top of the front lip inside the bumper.


 oo exactly what about riding in rain...filter is very low...water won't do damage?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

water WILL do damage. my suggestion - don't drive in the rain  

if it's a daily, i would suggest routing the intake into and across the bumper, in front of the radiator. that's how you can get enough distance from the MAF and try to avoid water soak.


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

obdONE said:


> water WILL do damage. my suggestion - don't drive in the rain
> 
> if it's a daily, i would suggest routing the intake into and across the bumper, in front of the radiator. that's how you can get enough distance from the MAF and try to avoid water soak.


 it's not a daily but sometimes u can't avoid rain...:banghead:


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

YOU DONT WANT TO INGEST WATER or get the MAF wet. Water doesnt compress. If your intake sucks it up you'll get hydro-lock & likely bent rods+++ :thumbdown: 

Run the filter at least 6" above the ground, be careful when its raining, always avoid puddles & take the time to reroute the filter so its nots so susceptible 
Plenty of ppl are running CAI on lowered cars.


----------



## irish_TDI (Mar 10, 2007)

obdONE said:


> water WILL do damage. my suggestion - don't drive in the rain
> 
> if it's a daily, i would suggest routing the intake into and across the bumper, in front of the radiator. that's how you can get enough distance from the MAF and try to avoid water soak.





CorradoMagic said:


> YOU DONT WANT TO INGEST WATER or get the MAF wet. Water doesnt compress. If your intake sucks it up you'll get hydro-lock & likely bent rods+++ :thumbdown:
> 
> Run the filter at least 6" above the ground, be careful when its raining, always avoid puddles & take the time to reroute the filter so its nots so susceptible
> Plenty of ppl are running CAI on lowered cars.


Try re routing it on a 24v engine in a Bora/Jetta! No room what so ever to re route the air intake anywhere! 

Lads 2 quick questions.

1.What air filters are you using with your Vf kits?

2.I have a VF stage 1 V6 4motion bora im using NGK Iridium BKR6EIX spark plugs but the last set only lasted 8k!!! What plugs are you using or any ideas why my plugs last such short a time.
My coil packs were not in good shape and i changed all 6 during that 8k period,could this have help shorten the life span of my plugs? 
What plugs are people on here using or would recommend for a stage 1 24v Lump.

Cheers

Shane.


----------



## vortexpert. (Sep 27, 2009)

*i dynoed today *

so i finally dynoed today. here is what i have and my results. 
















VF stage2 
schrick manifold
AFP cams
MK4 headgasket
ported exhaust manifolds
TT down pipe
TT high flow cat
TT 3 inch catback
light flywheel
factory clutch and flywheel
balanced bottom end


----------



## lifeisphunke (Feb 11, 2010)

It looks to me like the schrick is opening and killing your tq... I am about to run the same setup.

I was told to either remove the flapper of have it open at the highest rpm possible. 



with your setup I would have expected more I think but the numbers look pretty good overall.... I would love to see the same run with the flapper removed or with the on cpoint changed....




good work man!


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

I would dump the afp cams and eaither go back to stock or some 262's


----------



## lifeisphunke (Feb 11, 2010)

information on one of the mustang websites for the v1... I am ordering them all tom...



Vortech makes some of the best Superchargers on the planet but as with all parts that need a rebuild sooner or later. Here is some info on whats required.


This is what you need: 
2 Nachi ball bearings nac-6003 (must be speed rated)
2 SKF Ball Bearings 6205/C31 Chicago rawhide seal 
SC/R-62481 Transcom seal 
TCM-25x40x7tc1 Chicago Rawhide Speedi sleeve 
C/R-99062

That is everything needed for replacing the bearings, seals, etc. Disassembling it is real easy...just take off the 8 bolts holding the front cover on, take off the impellar nut (i think i remember it being left hand thread), take off the compressor case and impellar and mark it so you can have it clocked right for reassembly. As for the rest, it is obvious how it comes off and you will have to have the old bearings pressed off and the new ones pressed back on. The toughest part is getting out the main shaft but with a small piece of threaded rod the size of the pulley bolt and a few quick blows from a hammer and it's out...anyways, it is really simple to do and is EXTREMELY cheap compared to Vortechs price to rebuild so there ya go. That is the very brief version of how to take it apart, there is a little more fine detail to it but you'll see once you start. just be careful with everything. this is replacing all the parts that vortech calls a "minor repair" at $395. all these parts cost WELL UNDER $50 if i remember correctly...maybe closer to $25


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

lifeisphunke said:


> It looks to me like the schrick is opening and killing your tq... I am about to run the same setup.
> 
> I was told to either remove the flapper of have it open at the highest rpm possible.
> 
> ...


You're right about what it looks like is happening w/ the schrick. The thing is, when the flapper is "closed" he is getting good tq. once it "opens" the tq falls off. So; if you remove the flapper altogether, it will be in "open" mode all the time and seems that you will miss out on all that low end tq. getting it to open at about 4.5-5k rpm's might be the best way to go. Really need to compare charts w/ just the addition of the vgi to see if its even worth running w/o flapper.


----------



## lifeisphunke (Feb 11, 2010)

ThaCorradoKid said:


> You're right about what it looks like is happening w/ the schrick. The thing is, when the flapper is "closed" he is getting good tq. once it "opens" the tq falls off. So; if you remove the flapper altogether, it will be in "open" mode all the time and seems that you will miss out on all that low end tq. getting it to open at about 4.5-5k rpm's might be the best way to go. Really need to compare charts w/ just the addition of the vgi to see if its even worth running w/o flapper.




Yeah your def right. I have a schrick on mine and am going to move the flapper to max rpm to open.. I think it is 5600 rpm's iirc. I will have to look though.


----------



## lifeisphunke (Feb 11, 2010)

vortexpert. said:


>


I find interesting I dont see a drop in the bar at all when it opens, so it must disrupt the air flow quite a bit when under boost. it doesnt get back on till about 5000 rpms then starts climbing again... 

that must feel like a hell of a flat spot when driving....




??? when looking at the graph why are there the 3 squigily sections for psi... is that a disruption of some sort??


----------



## ruck (Jun 20, 2005)

my apologies if ive missed these two answers in the 79 pages if info, i have 2 questions.

1. what boost would be safe to run with the mk4 HG on a mk3? im assuming this is fine to do being as there are mk4 12v's supercharged without lowered compression.

2. does anyone supercharged have no a/c and no p/s? wondering what belt id have to run for that.

and thank you


----------



## lifeisphunke (Feb 11, 2010)

15psi is what I have read.... most people never actually get to 15psi with there supercharger setups though unless they do the cogged setup.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

If anyone is looking for a car to supercharger or use for daily duties I've decided to sell my MK3.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4920912-97-Jetta-GLX-MASS&p=66207461#post66207461


----------



## lifeisphunke (Feb 11, 2010)

good luck with sale...






anyone ever do the s.c. rebuild on a v1 themselves? any special tools other than a press, pulley remover and bearing splitter needed?


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

lifeisphunke said:


> information on one of the mustang websites for the v1... I am ordering them all tom...
> 
> 
> 
> ...



the Nachi bearings are only rated @ 40K rpm's and thus why I think we are seeing failures....I am still performing testing on my 69K german bearings, and if they prove stout enough I WILL post back with all the info on them.....and they are only $120/pr.

also, I am NOT a fan of the CR seals for the output side, even though they are dopuble seal, vs the OEM single seal...BUT the OEM single seal is a metal encased seal, which is much more stout.....I have yet to find another source other than superchargerrebuilds.com....$65/ea


----------



## irish_TDI (Mar 10, 2007)

irish_TDI said:


> Try re routing it on a 24v engine in a Bora/Jetta! No room what so ever to re route the air intake anywhere!
> 
> Lads 2 quick questions.
> 
> ...


Anyone able to help me on the above,thanks.


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

I want to replace the seal on my V1. It is the seal under the impeller. The V1 we use is a counter clockwise rotation. I can not seem to get the impeller nut off. Is it righty tighty or the other way around. It just does not seem to budge. I have a brand new unused seal I would like to use. Before I put the new pulley on.


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

I'm not sure if this is in the thread, but i'm cerious about doing this.. has any one done it?

Water/Meth injection?
http://www.snowperformance.net/product.php?pk=8

Also, does anyone know if this will work with c2 stage 1 chip?


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

i'm using a Snow boost based kit on a V1 and it works great. Retapped the boost port on the side of the charger to accept a 1/8"NPT nozzle.


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

Did you notice a diffrence in mpg? Will the car still run if you run out of water/Meth?


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

Yeah it runs fine without meth. It only sprays after 3 psi and goes full by 9 psi. Driving around town it is useless until you step on it.


----------



## lifeisphunke (Feb 11, 2010)

.LSinLV. said:


> the Nachi bearings are only rated @ 40K rpm's and thus why I think we are seeing failures....I am still performing testing on my 69K german bearings, and if they prove stout enough I WILL post back with all the info on them.....and they are only $120/pr.
> 
> also, I am NOT a fan of the CR seals for the output side, even though they are dopuble seal, vs the OEM single seal...BUT the OEM single seal is a metal encased seal, which is much more stout.....I have yet to find another source other than superchargerrebuilds.com....$65/ea


yeah I am going to be getting a higher speed rated bearing.. just using the pn for specs. I can post up the info I come up with. 
you have the oem seal number... I can prob get a source if one exists...


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

irish_TDI said:


> Try re routing it on a 24v engine in a Bora/Jetta! No room what so ever to re route the air intake anywhere!
> 
> Lads 2 quick questions.
> 
> ...



Shane, 

We have found putting in new plugs every 3k / oil change does the best.

For filters we use K&N filters with dry socks. 

:beer:



Scooter98144 said:


> I want to replace the seal on my V1. It is the seal under the impeller. The V1 we use is a counter clockwise rotation. I can not seem to get the impeller nut off. Is it righty tighty or the other way around. It just does not seem to budge. I have a brand new unused seal I would like to use. Before I put the new pulley on.


Use a little heat, to expand the nut. (200 deg F should do), then take it off. Use some WD-40 or Kroil to act as a lubricant to prevent gauling of the threads.


----------



## lifeisphunke (Feb 11, 2010)

got the supercharger all apart today... simple with the right tools. the bearing on the pulley shaft inner was bad on mine... some play the rest feel fine. I have read that that is the one that fails most often... my seals were all still good... but I am going to replace them anyways (prob a mistake and will cause leaks)


anyone use any type of sealent onthe half bearing cover when you put it back together... ther is a rubber gasket in there and I didnt see any sealant.. but the build thread I saw used it...


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

lifeisphunke said:


> got the supercharger all apart today... simple with the right tools. the bearing on the pulley shaft inner was bad on mine... some play the rest feel fine. I have read that that is the one that fails most often... my seals were all still good... but I am going to replace them anyways (prob a mistake and will cause leaks)
> 
> 
> anyone use any type of sealent onthe half bearing cover when you put it back together... ther is a rubber gasket in there and I didnt see any sealant.. but the build thread I saw used it...


u should post up pics of all this work ur doing


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

lifeisphunke said:


> got the supercharger all apart today... simple with the right tools. the bearing on the pulley shaft inner was bad on mine... some play the rest feel fine. I have read that that is the one that fails most often... my seals were all still good... but I am going to replace them anyways (prob a mistake and will cause leaks)
> 
> 
> anyone use any type of sealent onthe half bearing cover when you put it back together... ther is a rubber gasket in there and I didnt see any sealant.. but the build thread I saw used it...


I'm glad you are doing this... I'll be tapping your shoulder when I need it on mine.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

lifeisphunke said:


> got the supercharger all apart today... simple with the right tools. the bearing on the pulley shaft inner was bad on mine... some play the rest feel fine. I have read that that is the one that fails most often... my seals were all still good... but I am going to replace them anyways (prob a mistake and will cause leaks)
> 
> 
> anyone use any type of sealent onthe half bearing cover when you put it back together... ther is a rubber gasket in there and I didnt see any sealant.. but the build thread I saw used it...


Never used any sealant on any of my rebuilds. I know Todd does not either.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

I didn't use any sealant on my rebuild.


----------



## lifeisphunke (Feb 11, 2010)

I have taken some pics and I will post it up.... wanna do a small diy as I have not seen one on here for this and its pretty simple with 40 bucks worth of tools and a press.

ok so I will not use the sealant then.... the rubber giant oring gasket is still in great shape so I am going to reuse it... thanks.


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

Ok, so i relocated my intake, to the engine bay.. i no longer have to worry about rain/snow at all. It seems as i lost a little power and the cars exhaust not seems to be a tad bit quiter also. Going to add some water/meth and an 12psi pulley next.

Heres a few quick pics.


----------



## lifeisphunke (Feb 11, 2010)

thats a long way for the air to travel and get warm before it even gets to the charger... at least you wont suck in any water....


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

I stuffed the air filter behind the passenger side wheel liner, no problems with rain.


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

KubotaPowered said:


> I stuffed the air filter behind the passenger side wheel liner, no problems with rain.


I tryed that, but there is no where to put the 4" maf housing and fit it all up in there, i think i'm going to take the inside high beam out and put a little venturi in there.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

cjm722 said:


> I tryed that, but there is no where to put the 4" maf housing and fit it all up in there


Wanna bet?? I got a 4 inch MAF and K&N filter stuffed up there.


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

it's alive!!!!


----------



## lifeisphunke (Feb 11, 2010)

Praks said:


> it's alive!!!!



Congrats....


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

KubotaPowered said:


> Wanna bet?? I got a 4 inch MAF and K&N filter stuffed up there.


Please send me pics, i'd like to see this mk3 right?


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

little bit longer



:laugh:


----------



## vortexpert. (Sep 27, 2009)

KubotaPowered said:


> Wanna bet?? I got a 4 inch MAF and K&N filter stuffed up there.


thats not all you got stuffed up there john!


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

Got the engine bay cleaned up a little today


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

cjm722 said:


> Got the engine bay cleaned up a little today


Hows the car running now Chris?


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

car is running great, mpg sucks, but i can't seem to keep my foot outta it so i'm guessing thats part of the problem. also i do belive the airfilter is getting nothing but hot air right now, i'm going to pull the highbeam outta the headlight and put some sort of venturi on there to try and funnel more air in.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

cjm722 said:


> car is running great, mpg sucks, but i can't seem to keep my foot outta it so i'm guessing thats part of the problem. also i do belive the airfilter is getting nothing but hot air right now, i'm going to pull the highbeam outta the headlight and put some sort of venturi on there to try and funnel more air in.


you need one of these just after the charger. :thumbup:

http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/INTERCOOLERTUBES.html


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

what do you think would be more benfical to do first, water to meth injection or that air to water ic?

I was thinking do a snow performance water/meth kit and 12lb pulley and see where my iat are at and then maybe air to water IC?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

cjm722 said:


> what do you think would be more benfical to do first, water to meth injection or that air to water ic?
> 
> I was thinking do a snow performance water/meth kit and 12lb pulley and see where my iat are at and then maybe air to water IC?


I'd go water to air intercooler. however water meth is going to be way cheaper!


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

littlenr said:


> I'd go water to air intercooler. however water meth is going to be way cheaper!



X2


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

So my car is all said and done, But we are stuck at the most important part. The ECU i was given from the previous owners car dose not fit mine so i do not have a tune now. My Car is an 01, the ecu i was given was out of a 99. Anyway i called VF today asking if they could do me a tune and a guy by the name of nick there told me yes its 725 bucks  your kidding me right ? Any one else have this issue if so what did you do... pay it ? hack your ECU ? ect any input would help 

one quick shot


----------



## Nolig23 (Apr 22, 2005)

Dunkfan914 said:


> So my car is all said and done, But we are stuck at the most important part. The ECU i was given from the previous owners car dose not fit mine so i do not have a tune now. My Car is an 01, the ecu i was given was out of a 99. Anyway i called VF today asking if they could do me a tune and a guy by the name of nick there told me yes its 725 bucks  your kidding me right ? Any one else have this issue if so what did you do... pay it ? hack your ECU ? ect any input would help


I ran into the same problem but my kit came with 30# injectors, so I went with c2 30# software.


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

You are going to need a tune, which is never cheap, but you are in a good position in that you can choose whatever tune you want. Just skip the VF/GIAC tune, as it is mediocre compared to your other options. Something like C2 should produce more power and allow wiggle room for future upgrades (provided it is mated to the right fueling system, and they offer tune/fueling packages if thats a concern).


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

:beer:


vrDUCKin said:


> You are going to need a tune, which is never cheap, but you are in a good position in that you can choose whatever tune you want. Just skip the VF/GIAC tune, as it is mediocre compared to your other options. Something like C2 should produce more power and allow wiggle room for future upgrades (provided it is mated to the right fueling system, and they offer tune/fueling packages if thats a concern).


I am running the stock injectors that came with the S/C kit, which i think are 36 ? correct me if i am wrong. I understand a tune isnt cheap but 750$...... that's a little crazy to me 400 maybe 500 yes. But im sorry i cant see 750. Anyway sorry to be acting like that guy i am just a little up set i have a ton of money in the car now and its slowly milking me for more ( lol welcome to the hobby ) .  Any other input ?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Well its official now....Jeff Atwood leaves C2 Motorsports


----------



## KeyDub (Jul 11, 2004)

Dunkfan914 said:


> So my car is all said and done, But we are stuck at the most important part. The ECU i was given from the previous owners car dose not fit mine so i do not have a tune now. My Car is an 01, the ecu i was given was out of a 99. Anyway i called VF today asking if they could do me a tune and a guy by the name of nick there told me yes its 725 bucks  your kidding me right ? Any one else have this issue if so what did you do... pay it ? hack your ECU ? ect any input would help
> 
> one quick shot


Hey E,
was at DS on Wed saw your car looks good to bad all that BS with VF, hang in there:thumbup:

KeyDub


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

just so you know, you can get a Megasquirt ecu for less than $750. True it's a bit daunting to have to tune your car yourself, but Autotune makes it almost brainless. Standalone is the only way you can be sure that your car will run tip-top. I highly recommend.


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

KeyDub said:


> Hey E,
> was at DS on Wed saw your car looks good to bad all that BS with VF, hang in there:thumbup:
> 
> KeyDub


Thanks dude, Yea hopefully we will get this tune thing worked out Asap. I think i am going to go with c2 ? Not 100% sure that is the right call but seems best as of now. 520 for there tune which isnt bad. Any feedback on this tune...:beer:


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

Stick with C2, it runs much better than the VF crap


----------



## KeyDub (Jul 11, 2004)

obdONE said:


> just so you know, you can get a Megasquirt ecu for less than $750. True it's a bit daunting to have to tune your car yourself, but Autotune makes it almost brainless. Standalone is the only way you can be sure that your car will run tip-top. I highly recommend.


WERD J!!!!!:thumbup:


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

obd1 dizzy corrado vf stage 2
c2 chip
I get pulsating/very rapid bucking at times, not all the time. 
I'ts been few months since the install, and I cannot get rid of the problem. 
I extended the maf near the center of the bumper, which seems more then enough.
Over all the car idles great and partial throttle is great no complaints.

When I reset the ecm,( unplug the batery for a few) the car pulls like a raped ape for maybe 2-3 days, then it starts running worse, and at the end of the week it starts sputtering until i reset it again......... I give up, the only other thing i will do is convert my corrado to obd2 and get another c2 chip for obd2 coil...


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

BoostedTinCan said:


> obd1 dizzy corrado vf stage 2
> c2 chip
> I get pulsating/very rapid bucking at times, not all the time.
> I'ts been few months since the install, and I cannot get rid of the problem.
> ...


hmm....funny you should say this. because of a broken axle bolt/stud part, my car was down for over a week, and somehow the battery went totally dead. after a new battery was installed, i noticed it drove better than before. i will have to try this again, and disconnect the battery. also, as a trial, i installed a 3bar fuel pressure to see what the difference would be from the 4bar. after warm up, the idle a/f went to a fluctuating 15-17 with the ac on, versus the 13 to 15 before without the ac on. with the ac off, it was around 14 to 15. under full throttle and around 5-6k, it would hit around 12 instead of a low in the 10.5's . does not feel like it pulls as hard either. before someone says, you don"t say, i was just making a observation here as i have not seen any mention of this. fyi....


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

some quantitative and qualitative info to the group....finally:

- the nachi bearings while not rated for >40K rpms, are of a much greater hardness than those supplied by www.superchargerrebuilds.com. After additional analysis, I believe THESE bearings were the cause of my catastrophic failure. Todd has not provided me info as to what brand they are, but suffice it to say, they are NOT what I believe you should consider using, as his are far more expensive than the units I have found. Again, after a bit more testing, I should feel confident enough to share with all of you the data on these bearings...they are a VERY high quality and will spin to to 69K rpms. ABEC 7 rated, use a polymer cage (support heat loads to 200C) and are very reasonably priced.

- the CR seals used by others (including www.superchargerrebuilds.com) are not a replacement for the metal seal used by Vortech. That seal design is specifically designed to compress under the base washer of the impeller, creating a "doughnut" shaped seal on the output shaft. other double-seal designs are minimal at best, as the compression seal actually provides a better seal at the base of seal housing (thus the internal metal sleeve), which is less likely to leak at high loads, but the thrust direction of the output shaft actually provides additional clamping force to the seal.

more to come!


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

I think if resenting my ecm makes the car run great for a bit, then it's definitely a fuel map issue, it's something the computer can't adjust to. The c2 software just doesn't work worth a crap with obd1 dizzy it seems. I never had or ran the giac software so I cannot compare. I will convert into obd2 and try the c2 obd2 software , if not, im selling the blower set up.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

BoostedTinCan said:


> I think if resenting my ecm makes the car run great for a bit, then it's definitely a fuel map issue, it's something the computer can't adjust to. The c2 software just doesn't work worth a crap with obd1 dizzy it seems. I never had or ran the giac software so I cannot compare. I will convert into obd2 and try the c2 obd2 software , if not, im selling the blower set up.


or you could just go with Megasquirt. I'm just saying. I hate to see people bang their heads on the c2 wall like this. Your problems will never go away until you ditch the shelf tune and get something real.


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

obd2 people have the same issue ? why would vf sell something for 4500$ that does not work, I can't comprehend that, most people tell me to stay away from megasquirt.. ugh.. don't know


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

The Stage II VF file works great, unless you have cams. Which most of the people tend to have in from prior to going SC.


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

i swapped my car over to obd-2 injection w/ c2 software and its fine. it def isnt making peak power but it runs just fine. id like to have the option to tweak it to run better slash maker all the power it could.... maybe www.unitedmotorsport.net will have something out to give us 12v boost guys options w/ out going to an extreme. id go standalone but i really like the feeling of the safety-net built into the oem injection. all tough if i went to MS id def get on the bandwagon of that east coast MS supplier "KPTuned"..... def the best way to go. :beer:


----------



## allmotorvr11 (Sep 23, 2006)

*help needed ...*

so i recently purchased a s/c kit ... it is a v-1 it originally came with ams software...i was advised that since i was already running a big valve head that it would be a bad idea to run ams because it already runs lean up top.so i decided to go with 30lb injectors and relocate the mass air to the lower part of the right bumper. i then purchased what i thought was a 30lb s/c chip... it runs terrible... and it is reading mass air flow codes... my thought is that i got the wrong chip... does that sound right? and does have any idea which chip i need and where to find one?.... any help would be great


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

did you have sputtering issues on the obd1 setup before ?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

allmotorvr11 said:


> so i recently purchased a s/c kit ... it is a v-1 it originally came with ams software...i was advised that since i was already running a big valve head that it would be a bad idea to run ams because it already runs lean up top.so i decided to go with 30lb injectors and relocate the mass air to the lower part of the right bumper. i then purchased what i thought was a 30lb s/c chip... it runs terrible... and it is reading mass air flow codes... my thought is that i got the wrong chip... does that sound right? and does have any idea which chip i need and where to find one?.... any help would be great


Your problem sir is AMS kits put the mass air flow sensor in the charged air flow. If you went with some one other chip you need to move the MAF to the intake side of the charger. If you went with C2 you need to have a 4" inch maf housing. Let us know what "chip" you purchased and from where!


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

BoostedTinCan said:


> obd1 dizzy corrado vf stage 2
> c2 chip
> I get pulsating/very rapid bucking at times, not all the time.
> I'ts been few months since the install, and I cannot get rid of the problem.
> ...


what plugs are you running, i had this same problem and after trying alot of diffrent plugs i ended up using r5671a-7 ngk's. I know there a little to cold for stage 1/2 but they made the car super smooth and seemed to even help my mpg. I haven't tryed BKR6E's yet, but i will do that soon and let you know.


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

BKR6E gapped at .025


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

BoostedTinCan said:


> obd2 people have the same issue ? why would vf sell something for 4500$ that does not work, I can't comprehend that, most people tell me to stay away from megasquirt.. ugh.. don't know


AFAIK, obd2 c2 tunes are a lot better than obd1. However, that being said, how much time, effort and money is it going to take you to convert to obd2? New charge pipes, new intake manifold, new ecu, new throttle body. What else am I missing? Then the chip itself (what are they going for now, $400?) and it's still going to be a turbo tune! Even if you do all this, the car might be better, but it still won't be as good as it can be and you won't be able to tweak anything! You'll be dead in the water again if you don't like the results.

There's only one way to be sure you're going to get the results you want, and that's standalone. I would much rather spend the money on that now, then piss it away on things that "might" work for you, only to find out you are going to have to do it all over again anyways.

as far as the comment on megasquirt goes, why are people telling you to stay away from it? Is it perhaps because they spent $3000-$5000 on Tech3, Motech, or something else, only to find out they could have spent ~$800 on megasuquirt and gotten the same results? The only thing those other SEMS do that megasquirt can't is drive by wire.

anyways, i'm not getting kick backs from selling ms units or anything here, I've just been through all of this before, now i'm on MS, and I'm loving life. I'm also making close to 300whp on a V9, with a 12v that has completely stock internals. Not many people can say that.

talk to Paul @ kptuned.com (need_a_vr6 on vortex) he'll give you a straight price on a system, can include a plug and play harness if you like so you don't have to wire anything, and can also help you tune your car via logging and emails.

the only other option, as far as i'm concerned, is to do what Noah said, and just go back to the VF GIAC software. It won't put down crazy numbers, but your car will drive smooth and be fun. so, power = standalone; smooth and reliable = VF
g/l


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

I'm prety sure I could use the same intake manifold and exhaust manifolds, I Would just have to plug them, but thanks alot for that input, I threw him a pmsg on here for some of his input on the MS plug n play kit, how user friendly is it, pricing and all that, I need to get this car running normal. Thanks again


----------



## burnite2 (Jan 14, 2009)

*pulley bolt*

i know this question has been answered before, but i just cant find it in the thread. is the pulley bolt on a V9 reverse thread or normal and how did you guys get the bolt off, breaker bar or impact gun? thanks in advance


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

the threads are normal...and as for getting it off, i always use an impact :thumbup:


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

to swap from obd-1 to obd-2 i needed a whole car/donor, as basically everything electric and a few moving parts other than the head and block changed. its easy to do but in-less u have access to an whole obd-2 car its probably way over priced. and in the case of not basically having a free or basicly free obd-2 car to pick parts from MS is the way to go. all the small things add up doing an obd-1 to obd-2 swap i bet if u had to find them new or used plus u still have to get software and hope it works for u.... it was like building a new mk2 vr6 for me basically to do the obd-2 swap. the nice thing about obd-1 is that with the magic paul is working the MS almost plugs into the car and fires up. i held onto my obd-1 stuff just encase down the road i want to go with MS....


----------



## allmotorvr11 (Sep 23, 2006)

from what i understand it is a vf 30lb chip. which from what i understand uses the stock maf on the intake end... which is how i have it set up.... i extended the wires with the same guage wire and soldered the connections.i just have some strange feeling that the chip i bought in the classifieds wasnt what i thought it was... i considered trying the c2 set up.... but from what i heard , maf placement is difficult... i forget what plugs im running... once i get a chance to run over to where the car is i will check that out.... when joe pinto from the race shop ran the codes... the only one that came up was maf...low signal. he seems to think it may be the wrong chip and thinks i should start there...... does anyone know anyone with a vf 30lb chip and how much? also what components should i run to make it work best. it is obd2


----------



## burnite2 (Jan 14, 2009)

so i got vf stage 2 installed along with tt down pipe and 262 cams, but the stage 2 ECU chip would run after start up for less than a second and stop. i checked for vacuum leaks, boost leaks, all the sensors, spark, and fuel. all were good, so i put the old stage 1 ECU chip back in and it started first try. it runs super rich, 10:1 to 9.5:1 and is also down on power. sounds like a bad chip. i'm open to suggestions.:thumbup:


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

^^^ sounds like a bad chip. also, running cams with the GIAC software will lean out up top.


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

well after much time and thought i have made up my mind and am going to run c2 softwear i should have my ECU back saturday... or monday the latest so i will let you all know my feedback at a later date. :beer:


----------



## VdubBry (May 9, 2000)

Awesome thread, it got me through my build. Now some questions rather than starting a new thread.

I'm OBDII running a V2 charger, with the C2 software, 42lb green tops etc, the pulley on the charger is the stock one which I think is 6psi (roughly) The car runs excellent, strong, can drive daily if wanted.

I just installed the AEM wideband, and at idle it's running at about 14.9, that seems a bit rich, but I'm not sure where she should be at. I'm thinking when I put a bigger pulley on, she may lean out some too?

Any input is much appreciated! :thumbup:


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

VdubBry said:


> Awesome thread, it got me through my build. Now some questions rather than starting a new thread.
> 
> I'm OBDII running a V2 charger, with the C2 software, 42lb green tops etc, the pulley on the charger is the stock one which I think is 6psi (roughly) The car runs excellent, strong, can drive daily if wanted.
> 
> ...


14.7 is stoich, so I think you are fine....you cna lean it out some at idle....but more tellining is where you are at under load through the rev range. adding more boost by itself should not lean you out as fueling and air should be linear, but earlier......

just make sure to watch and log your AFs when you change the pulley


----------



## VdubBry (May 9, 2000)

Ok thanks! I did notice a few times when getting in to her heavy it would peg at whatever it max's out at I think 18 and then give me a --- symbol. I don't know what that means.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

VdubBry said:


> Ok thanks! I did notice a few times when getting in to her heavy it would peg at whatever it max's out at I think 18 and then give me a --- symbol. I don't know what that means.


 pegging a 18!??!?! the higher the # the LEANER you are...AIR to FUEL ratio.

at full throttle you should NOT BE MORE THAN 12.5 to 12.7

you need to resolve your lean issue NOW before you burn a piston or valves


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

wait though, let's clarify the above. Is this right after you let your foot off the gas, after you have "gotten into it pretty heavy", or is this with your foot still on the gas, while still accelerating?

if you are still on the gas, still accelerating and your AFRs are that high, you are going to blow something up, like Nate said.

However, that being said, if you are decelerating, foot off the gas, your gauge is likely to start pegging at high numbers as you are no longer actively delivering fuel to the engine.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

obdONE said:


> wait though, let's clarify the above. Is this right after you let your foot off the gas, after you have "gotten into it pretty heavy", or is this with your foot still on the gas, while still accelerating?
> 
> if you are still on the gas, still accelerating and your AFRs are that high, you are going to blow something up, like *Nate* said.
> 
> However, that being said, if you are decelerating, foot off the gas, your gauge is likely to start pegging at high numbers as you are no longer actively delivering fuel to the engine.


uh....I'm Larry:sly:

and some updated pics.....


----------



## R32peterb (Aug 22, 2006)

ok all, I must say I love this thread and have read almost ever page.

I have a MK IV R32 with a V9 charger that needs a high speed mechanical output shaft seal. I just got the seal from SuperchargerRebuilds.com
Is there a DIY on how to change this seal? or can anyone give me some tips? I will be doing this tomorrow.
Thanks for any and all help


----------



## VdubBry (May 9, 2000)

obdONE said:


> wait though, let's clarify the above. Is this right after you let your foot off the gas, after you have "gotten into it pretty heavy", or is this with your foot still on the gas, while still accelerating?
> 
> if you are still on the gas, still accelerating and your AFRs are that high, you are going to blow something up, like Nate said.
> 
> However, that being said, if you are decelerating, foot off the gas, your gauge is likely to start pegging at high numbers as you are no longer actively delivering fuel to the engine.


Ok thanks guys. It is the second scenario. Once I let off or no foot on the gas after just nailin it is when it will peg at 18. If I get back on the gas it will go more like back to 15. If I am on the gas at WOT she is in the 11-13 range. So it seems she is doing what she's supposed to.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

R32peterb said:


> ok all, I must say I love this thread and have read almost ever page.
> 
> I have a MK IV R32 with a V9 charger that needs a high speed mechanical output shaft seal. I just got the seal from SuperchargerRebuilds.com
> Is there a DIY on how to change this seal? or can anyone give me some tips? I will be doing this tomorrow.
> Thanks for any and all help


did you get the plain CR seal, or the OEM metal seal.....I beleive a failure I had was becuase I did NOT use the OEM metal seal.

as for replacing it, the charger is incredibly simple, and you will understand it as you open it up...BUT make sure to reinstall the shim(s) if any and the wavy washer back in the correct palce.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

new updated pics


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

havent been in here for a while. larry, nate, cars are looking good. hoping to get mine back in the next couple of weeks. blew it up again april 11th at vw show & go here. ill post up when i get something good to post


----------



## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

I've got a stage 2 30lbs, VF (GIAC) obd2 chip brand new never opened. If you are interested.


----------



## burnite2 (Jan 14, 2009)

^^^ thanks, but Jeff Moss @ VF is handling the chip situations for me. :thumbup:


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

.LSinLV. said:


> uh....I'm Larry:sly:


woops, my bad. For some reason I thought Nate posted that, not you. setup is looking sick though :thumbup:




VdubBry said:


> Ok thanks guys. It is the second scenario. Once I let off or no foot on the gas after just nailin it is when it will peg at 18. If I get back on the gas it will go more like back to 15. If I am on the gas at WOT she is in the 11-13 range. So it seems she is doing what she's supposed to.


you're golden. have fun.


----------



## VdubBry (May 9, 2000)

obdONE said:


> you're golden. have fun.


:thumbup::laugh:


----------



## dubber89 (Feb 2, 2010)

got a whole 12v supercharger kit for sale if anyone's interested. c2 30# software with a v1 blower everything you need is included. PM me if interested.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

I'll trade you my v9 for your v1 :thumbup:


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

hey all, 

Just last week we finished installing my supercharger kit at first we ran into a few minor issues like the tune i was given didn't fit my car and so on and so forth, now this week i got my c2 tune for my stage II VF kit (V9 blower). The car is up and running but runs like ****.  Some of the symptoms are when you step on the throttle the car gose flat, its misfiring as well as adding 25 % more fule ? We re placed the MAF sensor and i put new fans in for cooling, but the car is still running like ****. Any one have this issue or any answers to the problem ? 

Any input at this point is good. 

p/s: There are no leaks, the coil pack is good. we just ordered new spark plugs


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

Dunkfan914 said:


> hey all,
> 
> Just last week we finished installing my supercharger kit at first we ran into a few minor issues like the tune i was given didn't fit my car and so on and so forth, now this week i got my c2 tune for my stage II VF kit (V9 blower). The car is up and running but runs like ****.  Some of the symptoms are when you step on the throttle the car gose flat, its misfiring as well as adding 25 % more fule ? We re placed the MAF sensor and i put new fans in for cooling, but the car is still running like ****. Any one have this issue or any answers to the problem ?
> 
> ...



sounds like the dreaded C2 tune issues.....I have had similar issues with no real results.....wishing I had not modded the ECU to remove the GIAC tune.....it was conservative, but made for great daily driving. :banghead:


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

I think the issue is that i am on stock vf injectors and the c2 tune is 36cc, i wasnt aware of that i thought stage II met 36cc but guess not. anyway im going to call c2 tomorrow and see what we can do if they answer the phone :banghead:


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

Dunkfan914 said:


> I think the issue is that i am on stock vf injectors and the c2 tune is 36cc, i wasnt aware of that i thought stage II met 36cc but guess not. anyway im going to call c2 tomorrow and see what we can do if they answer the phone :banghead:


VF Stg II injectors are 380cc/36# units


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

I had an similar issue when i got my car running and i ended up putting the maf in backwards.. rookie mistake, but a quick fix.


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

yea its not the MAF i juust purchased a new one & Larry i just found out that they are not stage II injectors they are the stock ones on the stage I kit.


----------



## halitzor (Dec 26, 2007)

Could anyone please give me a complete list of everything I would need to purchase to have my VF stage 2 setup removed and the car put back to stock?

Thanks


----------



## dubber89 (Feb 2, 2010)

obdONE said:


> I'll trade you my v9 for your v1 :thumbup:


i used to have a v9 @ 12 lbs. the day i switched to the v1 on 12lbs i was like :what:
:laugh::laugh:


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

where can i find 36cc injectors for my mkiv 12v ?


----------



## burnite2 (Jan 14, 2009)

^^^ you can try USRT or verdict motorsports for injectors.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

Dunkfan914 said:


> where can i find 36cc injectors for my mkiv 12v ?


you need shorties, and they must be high impedance units.....also check with Integrated Engineering.

I have a set of used 45lb units, but they are too big for your charger and tune.


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

ugh, Looks like i am batting 1,000 . I know kentic has them but i cant get a set to me until tuseday know one has orderd these els where ? 36cc shorties stock mani and fuel rail.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Dunkfan914 said:


> ugh, Looks like i am batting 1,000 . I know kentic has them but i cant get a set to me until tuseday know one has orderd these els where ? 36cc shorties stock mani and fuel rail.


try cts turbo or usrt and by the way they are 380cc or 36#. not 36cc. If you are using 36 cubic centimeter injectors you have issues.


----------



## vortexpert. (Sep 27, 2009)

your VF stage 2 injectors for the AFP. i have a set brand new. dont ask how much....
















**** trying to modify the AFP manifolds to fit in a mk3 with a charger. all it will be are hopes and dreams.

this is the sleeve that allows these injectors to fit in the manifold.









one last thing. no part number so i cant find out who, where and how.....


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

I dont need one, but im just curious, where can you get the injector sleeves so itll fit in the manifold?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...FP-and-trans-For-sale&p=66526064#post66526064


----------



## bsA41.8T (Feb 16, 2004)

anyone help me out with a belt size i need?...running a v1 with 8psi pulley and ams idler setup and no ps and no ac....i found lentgths for belt with no ac but havent found length with both deleted


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

dubber89 said:


> i used to have a v9 @ 12 lbs. the day i switched to the v1 on 12lbs i was like :what:
> :laugh::laugh:


Exactly, so let's do this thing! You're going to sell it anyways, it won't make a difference in the price, and wouldn't you like to see that v1 go to a dedicated supercharger guy that's going to make serious power with it?



(I'll throw some cash on top if you actually want to seriously think about my offer  )


----------



## halitzor (Dec 26, 2007)

Could anyone please PM me and tell me everything I need to buy to fully reverse a stage 2 VF install? I want to go back to stock for now, could use the $. Please try to be specific. What injectors will I need, ect. Thanks


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

Just a follow up. The Dayco belt 5070610 is running fine, no rubbing like other belts did and very resistant to stretching out. I highly recommend V1/V2 guys looking into it. Engine bay shot for fun


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

KubotaPowered said:


> Just a follow up. The Dayco belt 5070610 is running fine, no rubbing like other belts did and very resistant to stretching out. I highly recommend V1/V2 guys looking into it. Engine bay shot for fun



What are you injecting into the bost path? Water/meth? How's it working?


----------



## dubber89 (Feb 2, 2010)

i have had the same Goodyear Gatorback belt (not sure what size) for 4 years and it never slipped once on my v1 on 12 lbs. :thumbup:


----------



## bsA41.8T (Feb 16, 2004)

figure id chime in with my setup ill hopefully have on this weekend..just gotta get 2 or 3 more parts this week and ill be set...car runs amazing how it is now...wen the motor was in the corrado it was a fender ahead of a stage 2+ b5 S4 until about 100mph...now the motor is in a mk2 gti now so with less weight it def moves and with the charger it should be pretty fun...ill def be gettin it dynoed after the install..maybe a be4 and after just for fun...but thats only wen i get the bugs worked out of it...im crossing my fingers that there wont be any tho after the install

heres the whole set up listing including engine work

vortech v1 S-trim (AMS brackets and idler)
8psi pulley
30lb injectors with c2 30lb tune
dizzy rado motor with ac and ps delete
Block was punched to 2.9L
kolbenschmidt 82 MM PISTON SET (OEM GERMAN)
New Lifter, 050109309J Known as the light weight lifters
MKIV Headgasket
CAT Race Valve Springs
262 Cams
ABD Plug wires 
OBX Header
Match ported upper intake to lower intake to the cylinder head.
TT 2.5 catback with borla 
2.5 test pipe


also if anyone needs to know length on belt for the single AMS idler and no AC or PS....i bolted everything up to a vr in my garage and strung a piece of rope through it...and measures 51" in length...it measured 50.75 with the charger almost bottomed out on the braket..so i added the 1/4 just it wouldbe be a bitch to get it on...thats with a 8psi v1 charger pulley also..not sure wut the pulley measures


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

lotar_6 said:


> What are you injecting into the bost path? Water/meth? How's it working?


Yeah its water/meth. It's got a 675cc nozzle right now, no detonation, pulls hard till redline. Without it, there was some detonation starting part way through the power band. 10psi and 10:1 compression in the AZ 105+ temps was taking its toll.


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

I am wanting to buy a stage 2 VF pulley, if anyone has one laying around they are not using feel free to PM me your price and i would gladly paypal u intstead of sending VF my money.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

I have two available. PMd you :thumbup:


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

KubotaPowered said:


> Yeah its water/meth. It's got a 675cc nozzle right now, no detonation, pulls hard till redline. Without it, there was some detonation starting part way through the power band. 10psi and 10:1 compression in the AZ 105+ temps was taking its toll.


:thumbup:

Excellent!


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

So I have the opportunity in a month or so to do a bit of work, most importantly getting a new tune from Jeff Atwood at United Motorsport.

Im tired of the GIAC tune and VF BS. They wont disclose the specs on my injectors, and the software has the warm stall issue that every other tuner corrected half a decade ago. I also wouldn't exactly call it smooth.

Right now, I have the V9 running 7.5-8 psi on a 24v, with whatever injectors and fuel pump are included with the VF Stage 2 kit.

Since I am going with a new tune, I have the opportunity to make other changes, and Im looking for suggestions:
-Smaller pulley. This is a daily driver, and I dont feel like rebuilding blowers every 5 minutes (already needed a rebuild after 10k miles, and Vortech took over a month to do it under warranty). How small should I safely go?
-Water/meth. I heard something about USRT not being able to stock the Snow Performance kits anymore? I also think I should keep the intercooler since it is a DD.
-Air flow straightener to the MAF, might help bucking issues.
-I would love to do some exhaust work in the manifold/dp/cat area, but Im not sure if I can do that within my budget right now.
-Colder plugs, Im still running the OEM-spec NGKs.

Any input is appreciated


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

vrDUCKin said:


> So I have the opportunity in a month or so to do a bit of work, most importantly getting a new tune from Jeff Atwood at United Motorsport.
> 
> Im tired of the GIAC tune and VF BS. They wont disclose the specs on my injectors, and the software has the warm stall issue that every other tuner corrected half a decade ago. I also wouldn't exactly call it smooth.
> 
> ...


I'm running bkr6e
dump the cat install a test pipe


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

a cheap rule of thumb is for every 100 hp you add over stock drop the heat range of the spark plug 1 level.


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

vrDUCKin said:


> So I have the opportunity in a month or so to do a bit of work, most importantly getting a new tune from Jeff Atwood at United Motorsport.
> 
> Im tired of the GIAC tune and VF BS. They wont disclose the specs on my injectors, and the software has the warm stall issue that every other tuner corrected half a decade ago. I also wouldn't exactly call it smooth.
> 
> ...



In theory, if you run WMI, you can run more boost safely. However, VF didn't do a Stage 3 for our cars because reliability of the V9 went out the window due to pushing it close to, at, or over it's rpm range. I would stay with the pulley you have and still run WMI and have Jeff tune your new SW for it. I do know Mr. Rictus ran a 2.5" on his 24v before he sold it.

As for plugs, I ran NGK BKR7EIX irridium plugs with my 24v Stage 2. Car ran great! :thumbup:


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

Finally dooing the install on my vf stage 3 kit and I have a question, did anyone have any issues with alignment of the sc pulley and the engine pulleys? Mine seems to b off a hair and I was wondering what people have done to solve this. Best way to space it, washers or fab a spacer plate? What r my options?

It's a vf stage 3 going in a mk4 12v with single iddler pulley and bracket


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

2tone12v said:


> Finally dooing the install on my vf stage 3 kit and I have a question, did anyone have any issues with alignment of the sc pulley and the engine pulleys? Mine seems to b off a hair and I was wondering what people have done to solve this. Best way to space it, washers or fab a spacer plate? What r my options?
> 
> It's a vf stage 3 going in a mk4 12v with single iddler pulley and bracket


you can make or buy spacers/shims....this is not that uncommon.


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

Where would it be best to space it? Between charger and bracket or bracket to head?

Tia for all ur help once again!


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

the work in progress...


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

2tone12v said:


> Where would it be best to space it? Between charger and bracket or bracket to head?
> 
> Tia for all ur help once again!


spacer goes between the bracket and the head. that way the charger can rotate plumb to the bracket for belt tension.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

anyone need a set of 380cc injectors? I'm moving up to 630cc and would like to get rid of the 380s.


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

IT'S RUNNING!!!

yesterday were first road tests...

and...

got few problems...

1. sometimes when i let throttle it off
2. high oil temp despite of big MOCAL oil air cooler (about 120 C whit agressive riding)
3.lack of power (power stiring is stops running so its belt slip?)

generaly runs great but i cant stop feeling its not its limits...


















p.s. sorry for bad english 

greets from PL :beer:


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

Update : Got my V9 back today car run's great, pulls nice and sounds beautiful. 
I am alittle disappointed with the power level of the car though, i thought the car would make 30 - 40 + whp more than its doing i put the car to the test today against an e46 M and the turn out wasn't cool :thumbdown: anyway i do not have much mods to the car besides 262's, and the stage II blower (8 psi ) i am in need of any input to help my car my 300whp. please :beer:


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

Praks said:


> IT'S RUNNING!!!
> 
> yesterday were first road tests...
> 
> ...


i checked boost yesterday...

7.2519 psi 

so for a stage 2 v9 its not all i guess?

must check belt slip

p.s. o and tell me for what kind of fuel vf soft stage 2 is set? now i'm running 100+ octan


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

Praks said:


> 1. sometimes when i let throttle it off
> 2. high oil temp despite of big MOCAL oil air cooler (about 120 C whit agressive riding)
> 3.lack of power (power stiring is stops running so its belt slip?)


1. did you wire in the MAF clamp the VF supplies with the kit? You could try that to see if it helps your stalling issue. Another option would be to make sure the MAF is far enough away from the supercharger inlet (18 inches) and that the Diverter Valve is not dumping discharge on the MAF.

2. What is your oil pressure? I can't imagine having that high of oil temp with an external cooler. Maybe your pump isn't pumping enough pressure?

3. Even with belt slip, I can't imagine you being able to feel a lack of response from your power steering. I think it must be something else. Unless of course your belt is VERY loose. You should not be able to turn the belt over more than a 1/4 turn, by hand, but most of us here are running even more tension on our belts than that.




Praks said:


> i checked boost yesterday...
> 
> 7.2519 psi
> 
> ...


8psi is the MAX boost you can see from the stage 2 VF kit. So, I'm going to say you are spot on there :thumbup:

The VF tune is written for 93 Octane.






Dunkfan914 said:


> Update : Got my V9 back today car run's great, pulls nice and sounds beautiful.
> I am alittle disappointed with the power level of the car though, i thought the car would make 30 - 40 + whp more than its doing i put the car to the test today against an e46 M and the turn out wasn't cool :thumbdown: anyway i do not have much mods to the car besides 262's, and the stage II blower (8 psi ) i am in need of any input to help my car my 300whp. please :beer:


Aren't you the one on stock VF stage II software? If this is correct, and you have 262 cams, you are more than likely leaning out up-top. This will lead to two problems:

1) low power output up-top
2) detonation and subsequent engine carnage

you will NEVER get 300whp out of your setup, so stop trying. There are things you can do to make it better though. 

Get better fueling, although I don't recognize any other chip currently offered as being better than what you have. standalone is the only way to go.

get a smaller pulley. You will need to be making at least 12psi before you can get near 300whp.

Take my story as an example, look at my car, my laundry list of problems, and what I have done to solve them and get my car where it is now. I am running standalone, 2.5" pulley, intercooler, etc. I am close to 300whp, but it has taken a lot of work to get there.


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

obdONE said:


> 1. did you wire in the MAF clamp the VF supplies with the kit? You could try that to see if it helps your stalling issue. Another option would be to make sure the MAF is far enough away from the supercharger inlet (18 inches) and that the Diverter Valve is not dumping discharge on the MAF.
> 
> 2. What is your oil pressure? I can't imagine having that high of oil temp with an external cooler. Maybe your pump isn't pumping enough pressure?
> 
> ...


 
1. i instaled it on the oryginal vf air tubes, and yes i have wired this black box to the MAF,Diverter Valve is instaled to lower part of the plastic air tube from supercharger 

2. DK, i dont have oil pressure gauge...friend of mine said that it may be oil sensor or i've wrong installed oil hoses from the oil cooler (its mounted upright - hot oil should be on lower part?)
i'v must do it because temps are to way high...

3.i've tensioned belt a bit and its better now but still power steering is not working properly, boost now 8.70228 psi (0.6 bar)

if i'm running now 100 octane fuel it may be the reason of so much rich mix??if i use 95 should be better running?


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

QUESTION: At what in/hg does the VR idle at?


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

if it doesnt have cams or low CR it should be right around 20in i believe. if it has cams then 16-18in is still normal


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

mk4vrjtta said:


> if it doesnt have cams or low CR it should be right around 20in i believe. if it has cams then 16-18in is still normal


hhmmmm.... seems a little strong. I was thinking around 10... but no way to know for sure right now.

and out of curiosity, how would cams or lowered CR make the vacuum strength lower?


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

cams would make the engine breath less at idle, but more up top since there is more overlap. and a lower CR would lower vaccum by just the extra amount of volume in the combustion chamber.


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

thnx! I get the cam reasoning, but the physics of lowered CR affecting pressure outside of the combustion chamber just isn't sinking in.

And another hour or so of searching internetz has satisfied me that 20 is close to what it should be stock at idle. THNX!!


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

well, when you have a lowered CR the volume of air in the combustion chamber is greater at TDC than if it was a high CR engine, therefore the higher CR engine tries to suck more air in, creating more vaccum.

ohhh and someone please help me explain this.. its a sat night :beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

has anyone of the great minds in here run a LW flywheel with their superchager kit? anyone know why this would be a bad idea?

looking for input as I seem to have inconsistent boost and I do have a LW flywheel.

FYI its a very light alloy unit from unorthodox racing.

sometimes the car rips 1st into 2nd and into 3rd. sometimes it wont, boost gauge reads any where from 4-8 lbs. car is mk2 12v vortech V9 (basically a VFE kit)

motor is healthy.


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

^^ not sure about the flywheel, but is sounds like you might be having an issue with belt slip or possibly a failing DV.



mk4vrjtta said:


> well, when you have a lowered CR the volume of air in the combustion chamber is greater at TDC than if it was a high CR engine, therefore the higher CR engine tries to suck more air in, creating more vaccum.
> 
> ohhh and someone please help me explain this.. its a sat night :beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:


lol, thnx for trying at least! I guess I kinda get it, but the slightly larger volume in the combustion chamber makes it seem counter intuitive. I'll find out soon enough...


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

lotar_6 said:


> ^^ not sure about the flywheel, but is sounds like you might be having an issue with belt slip or possibly a failing DV.
> 
> 
> 
> lol, thnx for trying at least! I guess I kinda get it, but the slightly larger volume in the combustion chamber makes it seem counter intuitive. I'll find out soon enough...


in a low CR engine, when the piston is on the compression stroke there is more space in the combustion chamber for the air to go, resulting in lower pressures in there. thats why when you lower compression you make the combustion chamber larger.


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

obdONE said:


> Aren't you the one on stock VF stage II software? If this is correct, and you have 262 cams, you are more than likely leaning out up-top. This will lead to two problems:
> 
> 1) low power output up-top
> 2) detonation and subsequent engine carnage
> ...


 Never say never , Even Who owned my kit be four me made 313WHP he's up there on page one. Not to sound like an ass but hard work is never easy, I am running c2 right now and it is **** !. I am on an 8psi pully and am looking to buy a 12 so if anyone has one for sale please contact me. 

I am looking to run: 

Coged belt set up 
schimmel SRI 
12 Psi pully 
Custom software 
TT Down pipes 

I'll have to be close with that... we'll im hoping. But hey if not its back to the drawing boards.


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

Better add w/m for good mesure.


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

today i've changed sensor in radiator and finaly got 1 fan gear, temps chilled a bit 90 C water and 112 C oil...but connecting to the vag showed maf error :screwy:


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

ive got an question for the corrad SLC owners w/ an vortech charger. how do u have everything hooked up on top of your oil filter housing? im installing the bell type oil presser sensor on my vr6 so i can hook up my SLC in dash oil pressure gauge. with my vortech feed line and the other sensors all ready installed on top of the oil filter housing im not sure how to fit the bell style sensor into the mix of things w/ out building some kind of a mini manifold and moving all the sensors around. its like freaking union station in there but yet i just have to cram more into there ahah........ if need be i can post up pics of what im talking about but id guess any of the SLC owners would understand what im talking about. 

thanks


----------



## lifeisphunke (Feb 11, 2010)

if someone needs a v1 charger setup.. pm me. I have one with brackets apart, needs 1 bearing, and fueling... I need wedding money.


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

Praks said:


> today i've changed sensor in radiator and finaly got 1 fan gear, temps chilled a bit 90 C water and 112 C oil...but connecting to the vag showed maf error :screwy:


 maf changed to another...results...now C is weaker on high rpm...from what point to what i must mesure those 18 inches?? boost still about 8psi so its not a belt...im sure its the ****ty soft...


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

route your maf w/ a flex tube to the area near the front mount/under sub-frame. Since the filter is too low here, you have to run more flex tubing(really allows you to tuck it out of the way) to the drivers side where you can mount the filter near the horns (on a vr rado)


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

CorradoMagic said:


> route your maf w/ a flex tube to the area near the front mount/under sub-frame. Since the filter is too low here, you have to run more flex tubing(really allows you to tuck it out of the way) to the drivers side where you can mount the filter near the horns (on a vr rado)


 not exactly understand...

oo and fuel regulator is 4 bar


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

carsluTT said:


> how do u have everything hooked up on top of your oil filter housing?


 not sure if it's different between gti and corrado, but I have this: 










http://store.42draftdesigns.com/VW-Oil-Pressure-Relocation-Kit_p_314.html# 

hope that helps.


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

obdONE said:


> not sure if it's different between gti and corrado, but I have this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 thats basically what i was thinking of making. wanted to see if any SLC guys were able to get all this stuff to fit w/ out anything over the top before i started reworking my setup. 

tahnks for the link looks like 42dd will save me some time if i go that route.


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

lifeisphunke said:


> if someone needs a v1 charger setup.. pm me. I have one with brackets apart, needs 1 bearing, and fueling... I need wedding money.


 dooooood!!! congrats again man! sux you gotta sell the s/c, tho. I guess there will be moar.


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

carsluTT said:


> ive got an question for the corrad SLC owners w/ an vortech charger. how do u have everything hooked up on top of your oil filter housing? im installing the bell type oil presser sensor on my vr6 so i can hook up my SLC in dash oil pressure gauge. with my vortech feed line and the other sensors all ready installed on top of the oil filter housing im not sure how to fit the bell style sensor into the mix of things w/ out building some kind of a mini manifold and moving all the sensors around. its like freaking union station in there but yet i just have to cram more into there ahah........ if need be i can post up pics of what im talking about but id guess any of the SLC owners would understand what im talking about.
> 
> thanks


 I used the vdo adapter from JEGS... LINK 

Here's how it looks up top (excuse the filth)... 










$13.99 +shipping and you're done!


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

lotar_6 said:


> I used the vdo adapter from JEGS... LINK
> 
> Here's how it looks up top (excuse the filth)...
> 
> ...


 i got to thinking, wonder if there is an AN type fitting i could put on at my oil cooler or the take off plate from the block for the bell style fitting to T into.... my cars getting an mad over haul right now so there are lots of options just looking for the one that best fits me. ive already got 1 T on top of the oil filter housing where my feed line taps in for the charger, not sure i could fit an 2nd T fitting in that tight of an space.... but maybe. thanks for the link also!...... 

on a side taught, whats the 2nd post for on the bell sensor, is it for the dummy light or something? maybe i can replace an existing sensor w/ the bell and be good to go?....


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

I need a 12 psi pully Any one ? 

Ps: I have a stage II 8 psi for sale.


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

scirockin16v said:


> has anyone of the great minds in here run a LW flywheel with their superchager kit? anyone know why this would be a bad idea?
> 
> looking for input as I seem to have inconsistent boost and I do have a LW flywheel.
> 
> ...


 i have a vf with 262 and a lightweight flywheel. no problem here. i would consider some gauges to say the least. a wideband controller with a a/f as well as the boost. then you will get atleast an idea of what is happening when it does not make power. are you using a c2 chip at least if you have cams? the vf tune stink on anything other than 100% stock setups. if your boost varies, then there is belt slip i would think. tighten a little more. vf says there should be around 25 degrees of deflection if i remember right. anyhow, tighten it it just a touch. not too much thoough or the bearing will fail sooner than later. is the belt newer than not? mine only lasted around 20k before i lost a rib. also, vf has a idler pulley so that you can get more belt wraped around the pulley. that helps me out alot.


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

cjm722 said:


> I am wanting to buy a stage 2 VF pulley, if anyone has one laying around they are not using feel free to PM me your price and i would gladly paypal u intstead of sending VF my money.


 i have a pulley from my stage 2. i would happily take 110 for it shipped to the lower 48.


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

2tone12v said:


> Finally dooing the install on my vf stage 3 kit and I have a question, did anyone have any issues with alignment of the sc pulley and the engine pulleys? Mine seems to b off a hair and I was wondering what people have done to solve this. Best way to space it, washers or fab a spacer plate? What r my options?
> 
> It's a vf stage 3 going in a mk4 12v with single iddler pulley and bracket


 
my kit came with a shim for some reason. one head needed it, then the next head i used did not.


----------



## angelod307 (Aug 16, 2007)

Praks said:


> 1. i instaled it on the oryginal vf air tubes, and yes i have wired this black box to the MAF,Diverter Valve is instaled to lower part of the plastic air tube from supercharger
> 
> 2. DK, i dont have oil pressure gauge...friend of mine said that it may be oil sensor or i've wrong installed oil hoses from the oil cooler (its mounted upright - hot oil should be on lower part?)
> i'v must do it because temps are to way high...
> ...


 with a stage 2 v9 pulley, the most i ever saw was around 7 psi (2.8" pulley) now i see around 8-9 psi(2.4" pulley). so if you see 8.7 psi, wow that is awesome. otherwise, i would check it again with a different gauge....


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

carsluTT said:


> ...on a side taught, whats the 2nd post for on the bell sensor, is it for the dummy light or something? maybe i can replace an existing sensor w/ the bell and be good to go?....


 The two on the left are for the hig & low dash sensors. The one on the right is for the pressure sensor. If your car didn't come w/ the pressure guage stock, you only have two posts... one for high and one for low to the dash.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

angelod307 said:


> with a stage 2 v9 pulley, the most i ever saw was around 7 psi (2.8" pulley) now i see around 8-9 psi(2.4" pulley). so if you see 8.7 psi, wow that is awesome. otherwise, i would check it again with a different gauge....


 With my V9 and a 2.4" pulley I was seeing 12psi of boost. So I would say your belt is slipping or you have a pretty big boos leak.


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

I am looking for a 12 psi pully, ANYONE?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Dunkfan914 said:


> I am looking for a 12 psi pully, ANYONE?


 I have one, but its chewed the eff up. So I wont be selling it. Just using it as a paper weight.


----------



## vdubstreets (Apr 26, 2004)

lotar_6 said:


> I used the vdo adapter from JEGS... LINK
> 
> Here's how it looks up top (excuse the filth)...
> 
> ...


 where did you get the unit for the oil pressure reading?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

Dunkfan914 said:


> I am looking for a 12 psi pully, ANYONE?


 I think we might have one at the anodizers at the moment. Drop Phil an email. :thumbup:


----------



## Olbrenner (Aug 23, 2008)

You do realize that the unused terminal on the oil pressure sender for the gauge will also take the place for one of the pressure switches with no problems. That will eliminate the need for the brass T-adapter and would allow fot he oil supply line to connect right up to the G-60 adapter.


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

Olbrenner said:


> You do realize that the unused terminal on the oil pressure sender for the gauge will also take the place for one of the pressure switches with no problems. That will eliminate the need for the brass T-adapter and would allow fot he oil supply line to connect right up to the G-60 adapter.


 see,.... thats what i was thinking, that one of my existing sensors could be replaced w/ this bell sensor ..... guess i need to figure out what is what and come up w/ a better plan for the install. ive got 3 sensors now,.... black one, blue one and an small white one. hum........ time to go back to :banghead: with the lovely vortex search of suck function ...... 

thanks


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

vdubstreets said:


> where did you get the unit for the oil pressure reading?


 you had to ask... my stock unit started leaking, so I was about to get a VDO sender from 42DD. Then this bad boy popped up used in an ebay search. I paid practically nothing for it. It's not the OE unit for the Rado, but it is a VDO unit. The original pressure sender only had a tab terminal, not the dual twist terminals. 



Olbrenner said:


> You do realize that the unused terminal on the oil pressure sender for the gauge will also take the place for one of the pressure switches with no problems. That will eliminate the need for the brass T-adapter and would allow fot he oil supply line to connect right up to the G-60 adapter.


 I never thought of that... but are you sure it would work properly? The point of the high (or low) pressure switch is to send an electric signal when the pressure exceeds (or goes below) a set pressure point. All it does is send a low volt signal to the dash to tell it to turn on the dummy light. The pressure sender sends a signal via the use of voltage range to the guage to display the pressure reading. Since it is sending a constant signal, just at a varying voltage range, wouldn't it keep the dummy light on the dash all the time? Are you recommending this solution based on your personal experience?


----------



## rhussjr (Aug 7, 2000)

The VDO dual senders will work the electrical gauge and the light. The warning pressure is either 7, 12 or 29 psi depending on the sender used. I use to run these on my Mk1 and Mk22 cars when running additional gauges. the factory used them on Cabriolets and they were also used by Audi to do the same thing.


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

So the belt that came with my VF kit has one less rib than the pulley on the charger, to match the number of ribs on the factory A/C pulley and such.

Thus, there is one empty "rib" on the pulley. I forgot if the belt needs to be installed so that the "empty rib" is the one closest to the charger, or closest to the motor. I am getting some nasty belt slip when I turn my A/C on, to the point I'm afraid to accelerate in 1st or 2nd gear with the A/C running. 

Since my car was down for over 5 weeks when the charger was being rebuilt, then I threw it back together and didn't see it for another 6 weeks while it was getting painted, it is probable that I forgot which way to install it. I unfortunately don't have any time right now to do any testing, since I work 9 hours a day, and then go to class for another 3 and a half hours after that.

Its a mk4 24v with a V9. Not sure if this applies to the mk4 12v V9 setup as well. And if anyone knows what length belt I need to order, I would like to get a spare, and not get it in the ass from VF.


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

Can someone clarify something for me real quick please??

I have a vf stage 3 set up which came with 2 diverter valves but I keel heAring that I don't need both. One of the diverter bungs is after charger before cooler and the other is after cooler before TB. They both route the air after the Maf but before charger.

Sooo, do I need both or just one? And if o ly one where is the optimal location for it?
Having the intercoolet piping finished right now and need to come to a conclusion on this ASAP so the piping can get finished.

TIA to any of the gurus on here that wanna help out this noob to the supercharged world


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

2tone12v said:


> Can someone clarify something for me real quick please??
> 
> I have a vf stage 3 set up which came with 2 diverter valves but I keel heAring that I don't need both. One of the diverter bungs is after charger before cooler and the other is after cooler before TB. They both route the air after the Maf but before charger.
> 
> ...


VF designed it for 2, due to the large/long intake tract and the need to allow pressurized air to be purged quickly to minimize compressor surge....it also allows the intake tract to recover faster from a throttle dump, based upon the VF designed system.


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

:thumbup::beer:


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

ok, so I'm pretty dam close to racing my car again. I'm in the tuning phase now... 

HUGE thanks to Noah (Verdict Motorsports) and Paul (KPTuned) for all your help!!! And thanks to the contributors of this thread... very helpful as well. I


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

looking good Kyle :beer:


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

DeckManDubs said:


> looking good Kyle :beer:


 thanks man... couldn't have done it w/o you!! 

now maybe I can get out east for an event. too bad I'm racing on the RR2H date.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Kyle, you better be making it to H2o :thumbup: I will be there for sure.


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

Looking good Kyle be sure to post up once you've finished tuning:thumbup:


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

I'll get it dyno'd eventually. Maybe sooner than later if I have problems tuning... but things are progessing. 

I'm trying to get out to H2O, but I'm running out of kitchen passes. I've yet to attend one, and really really want to go. Just sux b/c I'm supposed to travel the week before and after. We'll see what happens...


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

Hey all, 

*I have a VF stage II S/C chip for sale that came with my kit that i would like to sell, it is off a 99.5 i will take 500 OBO * 

Please P/M for pic's and offers 

thanks 

andrew


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

i'd like to start off by saying THANKS to the contributers of this thread that have helped me by answering my questions or simply by posting ur knowledge for us to read.:beer: 

well yesterday was the day that the key got turned and fingers where crossed........AND SHE'S ALIVE!!! started right up on the first key turn with no hesitation and idles like a dream. car sounds amazing revs up good and holds idle good even after u rev it and let it come down. 

one more question for u guys. with running stage 3 would u use a 3 or 4 BAR FPR? i have an adjustable FPR and just trying to set the right fuel pressure and right now it's at 43lbs at idle, should i bump it to 50 to b like a 4 bar or back down like a 3 bar?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

2tone12v said:


> i'd like to start off by saying THANKS to the contributers of this thread that have helped me by answering my questions or simply by posting ur knowledge for us to read.:beer:
> 
> well yesterday was the day that the key got turned and fingers where crossed........AND SHE'S ALIVE!!! started right up on the first key turn with no hesitation and idles like a dream. car sounds amazing revs up good and holds idle good even after u rev it and let it come down.
> 
> one more question for u guys. with running stage 3 would u use a 3 or 4 BAR FPR? i have an adjustable FPR and just trying to set the right fuel pressure and right now it's at 43lbs at idle, should i bump it to 50 to b like a 4 bar or back down like a 3 bar?


 That all depends on your software. IF you are running C2 then its a 3bar. I'm not sure what VF software calls for.


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

My set up is- 

V9 with 12llb pulley 
Short runer 
Intercooled 
268's 
Sai delete 
Walbro 255 inline 
United motorsports 36# software ( Jeff Atwood old C2 programer) 
Bosch white's 380cc injectors 

Thanks, I will adjust my pressure now and see how things r


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

2tone12v said:


> My set up is-
> 
> V9 with 12llb pulley
> Short runer
> ...


 

When my car had a v9 on with all of your other mods I ran 3bar. 

No issues at all!!


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

How are you liking the United Motorsport tune? I was planning on going with that very soon. I need to figure out what to do for fueling though.


----------



## Racer Rob (Aug 26, 2003)

i know and i have searched  but i have a corrado still a dizzy with a vortech v-1 setup and the PO told me it had an 8psi pulley on it it also has the dual idler setup. my question is i think i may have belt slip at about 3500 rpms the boost gauge goes up to 8 but the car feels like it lost a lot of power it pulls fine to about 4psi then seems done. car also has a 4bar fpr (should i put a 3bar in?) 

from my reading sounds like a slipping belt. PO said it was replaced over a year ago. the belt seems tight. so should i replace the belt. (was planning on it anyways) also i think it could be a boost leak due to the intake where it attaches to the charger has a HUGE silicone coupling that just looks like its asking for a leak. 
oh and i just checked the belt and its a delco 5070615 which after searching is .5 to big so i will get teh 5070615 
what are your opinions any imput would be great 

pics for reference


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

lotar_6 said:


> yeah yeah... I know... "not yet another belt question"!!
> 
> I've got my size (~61") and I've done a manual find on each of the 78 pages in this thread for the word "belt". OMG there's a lot of redundancy! I would have used the forum search, but it SUCKS!!
> 
> ...


 bump for this question, I'm in need of a belt for my 24v with a V9, running all accessories. I measured the outer belt length to be 57". If its not okay for the back of a flat belt to contact a ribbed pulley, I need to somehow find a double sided belt.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Racer Rob said:


> i know and i have searched  but i have a corrado still a dizzy with a vortech v-1 setup and the PO told me it had an 8psi pulley on it it also has the dual idler setup. my question is i think i may have belt slip at about 3500 rpms the boost gauge goes up to 8 but the car feels like it lost a lot of power it pulls fine to about 4psi then seems done. car also has a 4bar fpr (should i put a 3bar in?)
> 
> from my reading sounds like a slipping belt. PO said it was replaced over a year ago. the belt seems tight. so should i replace the belt. (was planning on it anyways) also i think it could be a boost leak due to the intake where it attaches to the charger has a HUGE silicone coupling that just looks like its asking for a leak.
> oh and i just checked the belt and its a delco 5070615 which after searching is .5 to big so i will get teh 5070615
> ...


 

I'd look into getting a 4" to 3" reducing 90 degree bend coupler for the intake. That wont be a boost leak but more air making it past the maf so you will lean out on fuel. I'd look into getting a new belt and starting there.


----------



## Racer Rob (Aug 26, 2003)

i am getting a new belt tomorrow. what about the 4bar should i leave it or try a 3 bar?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Racer Rob said:


> i am getting a new belt tomorrow. what about the 4bar should i leave it or try a 3 bar?


 depends on what software you are running for the FPR.


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

No one needs a ECU from VF


----------



## Racer Rob (Aug 26, 2003)

littlenr said:


> depends on what software you are running for the FPR.


 
sorry i forgot to include that but its C2 30# injectors


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Racer Rob said:


> sorry i forgot to include that but its C2 30# injectors


 3 bar


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

Anyone on being able to run a single sided belt with all accessories?


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

i have been for a goodyear gatorback for ~6k with out a single issue yet. 
before that i was running a dayco belt for ~4k with out an issue. 

Reason i changed the belt was i changed the pulley 

also, i used this to find what belts i could get our couldn't get 

http://www.accessdayco.com/dimensional-lookup 

You can also crossrefrence the part number here 
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php 

that way you can find out what the belt goes on, makes your couter guy at the local parts house a little less confused. 

Hope that helps some people


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

vrDUCKin said:


> Anyone on being able to run a single sided belt with all accessories?


 i've been running a single sided belt ever since i put the blower on. there have been zero issues with it


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

Thanks a lot guys. I measured my belt to be 57". Summit Racing carries a 6-rib Gatorback in that length, so I think I'm gonna order that.


----------



## Racer Rob (Aug 26, 2003)

littlenr said:


> I'd look into getting a 4" to 3" reducing 90 degree bend coupler for the intake. That wont be a boost leak but more air making it past the maf so you will lean out on fuel. I'd look into getting a new belt and starting there.


 new belt will be in tomorrow 5070610 and so will the reducer 



littlenr said:


> 3 bar


 i put the 3 bar in WOW what a difference its actually not bogging down much but has slip at about 6 psi 
NOTE: c2 + 3bar = win


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Racer Rob said:


> new belt will be in tomorrow 5070610 and so will the reducer
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Sweet!! Glad to help. Autozone carries gator back belts as well.


----------



## Racer Rob (Aug 26, 2003)

littlenr said:


> Sweet!! Glad to help. Autozone carries gator back belts as well.


 
do you have the part number for this belt? the Autozone around here lets say the employees are special:screwy:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Racer Rob said:


> do you have the part number for this belt? the Autozone around here lets say the employees are special:screwy:


 5070610 that is on the manufacture's belt jacket


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

*Seen Noaha?*

Arg I want get the finished pulley he grooved sand blasted and re-anodized. I had the injectors cleaned. I replaced worn and tired bolts. Need to shim the pulley about 1/28th of an inch. But dam I miss the roar of my V1. Need a GOOD belt as well. I want to see a lot less belt slip if possible.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

I think everyone knows we like to keep Noah busy  

Pulleys are due in by the end of the week. I'll keep you up to date Scooter and let you know when its shipping. 

Phil 



Scooter98144 said:


> Arg I want get the finished pulley he grooved sand blasted and re-anodized. I had the injectors cleaned. I replaced worn and tired bolts. Need to shim the pulley about 1/28th of an inch. But dam I miss the roar of my V1. Need a GOOD belt as well. I want to see a lot less belt slip if possible.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

If at all possible, use a Dayco 5070610, I have had the best luck with this belt, no slipping, no stretching or tracking problems.


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

*A diffrent type of pully*

http://www.carbiniteracing.com/index.html


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*rebuild*

who do you guys have rebuild your chargers? who offers a fair price with min down time?


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

I can tell you one thing, DON'T have Vortech do it:banghead: 

So I'm planning on having the car retuned very soon, with a new fueling kit. I will have to drive the car to the shop to have it flashed. My question is, can I install the larger injectors and baby it to the shop? I would like to avoid having to pay the shop to install the injectors for me... 

Its a 2003 24v running the VF GIAC tune and injectors currently.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

vrDUCKin said:


> I can tell you one thing, DON'T have Vortech do it:banghead:
> 
> So I'm planning on having the car retuned very soon, with a new fueling kit. I will have to drive the car to the shop to have it flashed. My question is, can I install the larger injectors and baby it to the shop? I would like to avoid having to pay the shop to install the injectors for me...
> 
> Its a 2003 24v running the VF GIAC tune and injectors currently.


 bigger injectors should make the car run very rich without the tune to match....if you can get it to run...you should be OK, but you might damage the cat.


----------



## Racer Rob (Aug 26, 2003)

alright i just drove my car and here's the situation.. 

c2 chip 30# injectors 3bar fpr 
dizzy motor 

as posted on page 84 i thought there was belt slip until i changed out the fpr 
now what happening is that around 5800 rpm it seems like the car is leaning out (no a/f gauge) 
its spitting and sputtering.. and sometimes at idle my vacuum is 15 and then it goes to 20 

any suggestions on what i should look for? i still need to change that reducer out im also thinking my maf may be to close its like 12 inches maybe


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Racer Rob said:


> alright i just drove my car and here's the situation..
> 
> c2 chip 30# injectors 3bar fpr
> dizzy motor
> ...


 

Spark plugs and gap. You should be running ngk bkr6e gapped at .026"


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

Where can i get a new V band clap and seal for my V9?


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

Took the car out for a test ride and I think I still have an alignment issue cause the belt climbed one rib towards the charger plus maybe it wasn't tight enough. 
I took the charger out to get the belt off to try to match to some other belts for spares so I decided to take a look inside the charger impeller side and seen a drop of oil so I guess there's a seal starting to go, question is can I change that seal only or do I have to get a full rebuild? Also how hard is it to change and does anyone have a DIY for it? I'm assuming this would b coming from impeller shaft seal correct? 
No noises or shaft play from charger even after warm so I hope I don't have to do a rebuild right now


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

.LSinLV. said:


> bigger injectors should make the car run very rich without the tune to match....if you can get it to run...you should be OK, but you might damage the cat.


 Not to mention the risk of cylinder wash down


----------



## Racer Rob (Aug 26, 2003)

littlenr said:


> Spark plugs and gap. You should be running ngk bkr6e gapped at .026"


Alright I did this now I get bucking at 2500 rpms I'm assuming the maf is too close so I guess I should get flex tube and move it some more


----------



## Racer Rob (Aug 26, 2003)

Sorry about all the questions but I figure if I ask them here it will help people in the future when searching for answers to their issues. So what size gauge wire should I use to extend the maf?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Racer Rob said:


> Alright I did this now I get bucking at 2500 rpms I'm assuming the maf is too close so I guess I should get flex tube and move it some more


what is your vacuum at idle again? It will move around a little bit due to your isv. 

Does it do this on partial throttle while just cruising? 

my maf is located right behind the charge pipe on the left side of the pic. I've never had any issues with maf placement.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

Scooter98144 said:


> http://www.carbiniteracing.com/index.html


that looks very nice! you put it on yet? I'm interested to see how it stacks up against mine


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

thinking of deleting the aux radiator in my mkIV for decomplications sake... (nice made up word), has anyone else done this? Any significant changes in temps? 

I have a new set of fans, fan control module and all that good stuff in the car so I know all those cooling parts are strong. 

Thanks for any info folks have.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

^ why would you want to eliminate the aux rad.? VW designed it to be there because the existing (AAA motors) systems were taxed by the VR already.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

dasGolf01 said:


> thinking of deleting the aux radiator in my mkIV for decomplications sake... (nice made up word), has anyone else done this? Any significant changes in temps?
> 
> I have a new set of fans, fan control module and all that good stuff in the car so I know all those cooling parts are strong.
> 
> Thanks for any info folks have.


I did it!! No more air pockets in my coolant system! Temps haven't changed a bit and its been up close to 100 for a week.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

GO HERE FOR THE PARTS


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

I did not. The aux cooler is definitely needed when you want to use a/c with a FI'd car....I fab'd up an aluminum "T" fitting there...I'll have to take some pics and post them up.


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

I did not buy it. I have a sandblasted and machined one Noah is getting me. I found that website the other night and thought I would post the info.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

That's cool. Noah and I developed that one together. well, I told him what i wanted and he made it for me 

I found that I still needed a bit more grip to it though, which is why I cut the grooves in mine. This has worked better, but is being a bit harder on belts.

I am seriously tempted to try one of these other pulleys out though since I seem to be resigned to staying with my s/c setup and would like to get the most out of it.

g/l :beer:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

The grooves idea you had Jamie seem like they will work pretty well, thats what I did to Scooter's pulley. 


I do have one last trick up my sleeve for the serpentine setups... I will be designing it up this winter and doing some prototypes. 60% more belt engagement


----------



## all-starr-me (Jul 14, 2003)

How about an 8 rib setup? 

if you countersink the front main bolts you could do an oversized crank pulley. would love to see more than 15psi out of one of these.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

DeckManDubs said:


> The grooves idea you had Jamie seem like they will work pretty well, thats what I did to Scooter's pulley.
> 
> 
> I do have one last trick up my sleeve for the serpentine setups... I will be designing it up this winter and doing some prototypes. 60% more belt engagement


Nice! I'll be waiting for this. Always excited to see new things coming out of the Verdict camp.

just an FYI, those grooves do cut up the belts. I did a 130mph run down the freeway not too long ago and shredded all but 3 ribs off my 7 rib belt  this was with a Gatorback 8-rib that I shaved down to 7. I put a cheapo 6-rib valuecraft belt on there that has been working like a champ for quite some time now. I think maybe shaving a rib off the belt was just giving little nicks and threads for my pulley to really bite into and tear up the belt.

I am trying to track down a Gates Industrial, semi truck belts, belt for my next go around. They are supposedly the toughest belts made in the industry. tougher than Gates special racing belts. If I can get my hands on one of those, I'm assuming I cna really tighten that belt up and get some damn good grip out of my pulley.

couple that with the 8.5:1 head spacer I just ordered and a re-tune, I should be blowing by that 300whp mark unequivocally.


----------



## eliosbluejetta (May 1, 2008)

*arrrrg*

hey guys yesterday put new belt and new tensioner for the charger now my car sounds like a subaru wtf what could it be:banghead:


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

obdONE said:


> Nice! I'll be waiting for this. Always excited to see new things coming out of the Verdict camp.
> 
> just an FYI, those grooves do cut up the belts. I did a 130mph run down the freeway not too long ago and shredded all but 3 ribs off my 7 rib belt  this was with a Gatorback 8-rib that I shaved down to 7. I put a cheapo 6-rib valuecraft belt on there that has been working like a champ for quite some time now. I think maybe shaving a rib off the belt was just giving little nicks and threads for my pulley to really bite into and tear up the belt.
> 
> ...


That compression is awfully low for a s/c application Jamie. :sly:


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

hmmm, I thought boost was boost... 

On a good day, I'm running 12psi. My tune is suffering from some driveability problems which I think stem from how advanced my timing is at stock compression. It's either that or I need a rebuild, but either way, lowering the compression will give me a lot more leeway in tuning.

most guys with s/c'd VRs here are running about 8psi on a chip tune. I'm far beyond that.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

Due to the complication of the SRI and the rad hoses and such things, without the aux rad, it would be much easier fitting everything. But I was asking if anyone has experience removing theirs and seeing how their temps ran. As no one has said anything about that, I'll keep working with parts and pieces to get it right. Tight fit in there with everything, close to rad fan, close to TB, etc.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

obdONE said:


> hmmm, I thought boost was boost...
> 
> On a good day, I'm running 12psi. My tune is suffering from some driveability problems which I think stem from how advanced my timing is at stock compression. It's either that or I need a rebuild, but either way, lowering the compression will give me a lot more leeway in tuning.
> 
> most guys with s/c'd VRs here are running about 8psi on a chip tune. I'm far beyond that.


are you runnning water/meth? i thought 12 psi would be fine on stock c/r especially with a s/c


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

dasGolf01 said:


> Due to the complication of the SRI and the rad hoses and such things, without the aux rad, it would be much easier fitting everything. But I was asking if anyone has experience removing theirs and seeing how their temps ran. As no one has said anything about that, I'll keep working with parts and pieces to get it right. Tight fit in there with everything, close to rad fan, close to TB, etc.



I responded to you, but here it is again.


I took my aux rad out on my mk4 and don't have any issues with water temps.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

mk4vrjtta said:


> are you runnning water/meth? i thought 12 psi would be fine on stock c/r especially with a s/c


if oyu are running a v9 it would be ok. But a v1/v2 you would have some issues.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

eliosbluejetta said:


> hey guys yesterday put new belt and new tensioner for the charger now my car sounds like a subaru wtf what could it be:banghead:



Check your hose clamps, sounds like you might have a boost leak.


----------



## burnite2 (Jan 14, 2009)

hey guys, i need some advice on the car. here's the setup, V9 with 8lbs pully, VF/GIAC tune, 262 cams, ported TB, EX. mani and clone intake. it runs rich during cruise 13:1 to 14:1, WOT 10:1, and at idle it runs 14.5:1 to 15:1. i've changed the MAF, O2 sensor, and water temp sensor and has gotten better but still needs help. i thought that running cams with the GIAC tune would make it run lean. i'm i over reacting about the AFR's or do they look fine to you.


----------



## Claynumber1fan (Aug 7, 2010)

To those with MK4 Vf Supercharged cars looking for a software fueling option, here's what I did.

My buddy dropped off his vf stage 2 car with a 3.0l high comp built and schimmel short runner to me because it was running like ****. A little digging and I found the car to be running way lean under boost and inconsistent the rest of the time. I tryed looking for solutions and mostly found mk3 info. So I ordered 415cc green giants, a walbro inline, got rid of the maf resistor box and got a custom file from Unitronic. The car now runs greats with much improved throttle response, starts and much more power. AFR are always spot on and I feel much more confident beating on the car. If anyone with a mk4 went beyond the VF stagged kit I highly recommend going with this file before considering stand alone.


:thumbup::beer::thumbup:


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

Claynumber1fan said:


> To those with MK4 Vf Supercharged cars looking for a software fueling option, here's what I did.
> 
> My buddy dropped off his vf stage 2 car with a 3.0l high comp built and schimmel short runner to me because it was running like ****. A little digging and I found the car to be running way lean under boost and inconsistent the rest of the time. I tryed looking for solutions and mostly found mk3 info. So I ordered 415cc green giants, a walbro inline, got rid of the maf resistor box and got a custom file from Unitronic. The car now runs greats with much improved throttle response, starts and much more power. AFR are always spot on and I feel much more confident beating on the car. If anyone with a mk4 went beyond the VF stagged kit I highly recommend going with this file before considering stand alone.
> 
> ...


i was going to get a custom file from unitronic (at mobile one inc.) a few weeks ago but ended up not having the cash. they wanted $750 for the file and another $150 for the dyno. do you mind sharing how much you spent on that, im kinda curious? :beer:


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

burnite2 said:


> hey guys, i need some advice on the car. here's the setup, V9 with 8lbs pully, VF/GIAC tune, 262 cams, ported TB, EX. mani and clone intake. it runs rich during cruise 13:1 to 14:1, WOT 10:1, and at idle it runs 14.5:1 to 15:1. i've changed the MAF, O2 sensor, and water temp sensor and has gotten better but still needs help. i thought that running cams with the GIAC tune would make it run lean. i'm i over reacting about the AFR's or do they look fine to you.


14:1 while cruising isnt really rich. idle looks spot on, and WOT does seem a little rich. you having any belt slip at high rpm?


----------



## Claynumber1fan (Aug 7, 2010)

mk4vrjtta said:


> i was going to get a custom file from unitronic (at mobile one inc.) a few weeks ago but ended up not having the cash. they wanted $750 for the file and another $150 for the dyno. do you mind sharing how much you spent on that, im kinda curious? :beer:


Well BT unitronic files go for 890$ so that's what I paid. Having worked with Mike Z (unitronic tuner) numerous times in the past I only had to send a couple of logs and got the file like that.

What are your mods and injectors? With Me7 adaptation capacity my file could probably work for you too if you're running 415s. It really was worth every penny though so much more response than the giac file and much more power.

Send me your setup and I'll see what uni can do for you.:beer:


----------



## burnite2 (Jan 14, 2009)

no belt slip, i'm getting 7.5 psi @ 6500 rpm. do you think a 3.5 BAR fuel reg would lean it out a bit? i'm runing a 4 BAR now.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

burnite2 said:


> no belt slip, i'm getting 7.5 psi @ 6500 rpm. do you think a 3.5 BAR fuel reg would lean it out a bit? i'm runing a 4 BAR now.


if you are running C2 you should be at 3 bar.


----------



## burnite2 (Jan 14, 2009)

i'm runing GIAC 8 psi tune.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

burnite2 said:


> i'm runing GIAC 8 psi tune.


what year is your vr swap? obd 2 motors need 3 bar.


----------



## burnite2 (Jan 14, 2009)

its a obd2 out of a 96 passat


----------



## bsA41.8T (Feb 16, 2004)

so i was simming throught the last couple pages and its got me thinking i need a 3bar fpr also...does C2 call for a 3bar or is that wut seems to work the best? i have a 92 dizzy rado motor in my mk2 with a V1 w/ 8psi pulley running on C2's #30 software and my my car has a 4bar in it currently...if a 3bar would wake it up some that would be awesome but i dont want it to lean out and grenade anything....my motor is bored to 2.9 with cams and headwork ect...should i just keep the 4bar since its flowing alot more or will i benefit from a 3bar??? wheres a good place to get one?


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

VR6 Corrado's & B4 Passats originally used a 4bar FPR from factory, this stays the same w/ C2 tunes. This is only true for above mentioned, not OBD1 or 2 VR golff/jettas:thumbup:


----------



## bsA41.8T (Feb 16, 2004)

So wuts with all this talk I've seen with running a 3bar?


----------



## Racer Rob (Aug 26, 2003)

bsA41.8T said:


> So wuts with all this talk I've seen with running a 3bar?


i would also like to know why i was told to put a 3bar in. since i have done this my car has not run right since


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Racer Rob said:


> i would also like to know why i was told to put a 3bar in. since i have done this my car has not run right since


C2 tunes for coil pack mk4s calls for a 3 bar FPR. Some coil pack mk3s as well. What it boils down to is whatever fpr the car comes with stock is what C2 wrote the file to match.


----------



## Racer Rob (Aug 26, 2003)

littlenr said:


> C2 tunes for coil pack mk4s calls for a 3 bar FPR. Some coil pack mk3s as well. What it boils down to is whatever fpr the car comes with stock is what C2 wrote the file to match.


ahh so since my car being a Dizzy Corrado came with a 4bar thats what i should be running


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Racer Rob said:


> ahh so since my car being a Dizzy Corrado came with a 4bar thats what i should be running


that is my understanding!


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

*Help*

Iv gone through a few pages with no answer. I have a mk4 12v vr6 with the v9 stage 2 kit(vf), any idea what belt to buy, I need a new one but am unsure which size or car to use.


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

it "interrupts" on high rpm

vf stage 2 ,obd1 ,vf soft ,4 bar regulator



fuel pomp or soft??:banghead:


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

Doh, I missed that, sorry Nate. My total bad. :banghead:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)




----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

So dose no one know what belt to use with the mk4 12v vr6 vf stage 2 kit? I would really like not to pay 70 for vfs belt


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

flybye1 said:


> So dose no one know what belt to use with the mk4 12v vr6 vf stage 2 kit? I would really like not to pay 70 for vfs belt


*go back to page 84*. its there. promise. The question has come up so many times!!!

I think its 61" belt, but I can't tell you for sure. I ditched every last bit of a VF kit I could ever think of. 

At one point I was running a v9 with a 2.5" pulley (12psi) , ac, ps, no idler pulleys and I just ran a 2000 eurovan belt I bought at Napa. No slipping. Ran great.


----------



## KeyDub (Jul 11, 2004)

littlenr said:


>


What the hell


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

Thank you, I know it was here but I haven't posted in here since page 30 or so.


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

could the first post be edited to have some kind of chart showing all the different belts with part #'s and what combo uses what belt?


----------



## KeyDub (Jul 11, 2004)

Nate;
what are you up to....opcorn:


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

I just picked up a Dayco 63" 6 rib belt for my 24v with a V9. I looked it up and coincidentally it is the stock belt size for the mk5 R32 and the A3 3.2l. I will update once I install it.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

KeyDub said:


> Nate;
> what are you up to....opcorn:


oh finally going to use my charger's full potential. 1200cfm at 16psi. Should be fun!!! That puts me in the same range as a gt40 turbo with the volume of air.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

So, do you guys think this might have been a contributing factor to my not being able to tune out the hiccups and stuttering?




























I installed my 8.5:1 head spacer this weekend and found that my stock head gasket was pretty well blown. The water jackets are completely corroded, making coolant passage through them very difficult. I was more than likely getting heat pockets in the head, and maybe even a bit of coolant blowing into the cylinders.

so far, my car is running 200% better than it was before. It feels like a stock VR6, just with 150 more whp


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

littlenr said:


> oh finally going to use my charger's full potential. 1200cfm at 16psi. Should be fun!!! That puts me in the same range as a gt40 turbo with the volume of air.


I blew up my V2 with stg III impeller at ~14 to 15psi....good luck!


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

.LSinLV. said:


> I blew up my V2 with stg III impeller at ~14 to 15psi....good luck!


If it blows it blows. I'm interested to see what a V1 t-trim can really do!


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

i looked thru here a little bit, cant really find anything. the new search option sucks imo. im throwing on a v2 kit on my mk3 vr6. where do most of you guys run your vacuume line for the DV? and do you have pictures? and also, belt size for and # of ribs for that setup with no ac? thanks in advance


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

Damn Jamie, that HG is def smoked.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

[email protected] said:


> Damn Jamie, that HG is def smoked.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

How do the cylinder walls look Jamie?


----------



## tourvdub (Apr 5, 2004)

kind of off topic but i am looking for one of those nifty polished shields that goes over the charger pulley. anyone know where i can locate one? TIA


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

[email protected] said:


> How do the cylinder walls look Jamie?


clean as a whistle! No, scrapes or gouging. No staining. Looked great. I have no reason to suspect bad rings or blow by. Head and valves looked damn good too. I dodged a big, nasty bullet here, I think.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

tourvdub

Those shields are off of AMS kits, you might be able to find one from some one who is parting a kit. Other than that you could go to a sheet metal fabricator and have them bang one out for ya.


----------



## burnite2 (Jan 14, 2009)

hey guys, i need your help. this thing has gotten me stumped. the setup is VF stage 2, with GIAC software, 262 cams, ported EX manifolds and TT downpipe. i've replaced the coolant temp sensor, air intake sensor, O2 sensor, and MAF, and still cant get it to lean out. as of now, its running 12.8:1 to 13:1 AFR at idle, 12:1 at cruise, and about 9.8 to 10:1 at WOT. it does not have belt slip, and i cant find any vacuum leaks. any help would be great, i'm just about done with this project:banghead:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

burnite2 said:


> hey guys, i need your help. this thing has gotten me stumped. the setup is VF stage 2, with GIAC software, 262 cams, ported EX manifolds and TT downpipe. i've replaced the coolant temp sensor, air intake sensor, O2 sensor, and MAF, and still cant get it to lean out. as of now, its running 12.8:1 to 13:1 AFR at idle, 12:1 at cruise, and about 9.8 to 10:1 at WOT. it does not have belt slip, and i cant find any vacuum leaks. any help would be great, i'm just about done with this project:banghead:


Space the o2 sensor out of the exhaust a tad. Since you have headers and downpipe. Use a spark plug non- fouler. Just to space it out. Don't get the 42 draft design piece. That is for the rear o2. You want to do this on the front o2.


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

are a lot of people running in to rich issues with the TT downpipes and VF kits?


----------



## burnite2 (Jan 14, 2009)

> Space the o2 sensor out of the exhaust a tad. Since you have headers and downpipe. Use a spark plug non- fouler. Just to space it out. Don't get the 42 draft design piece. That is for the rear o2. You want to do this on the front o2.


ok, thanks. i'll try this today after work. :thumbup:


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

2PointGoGoGo said:


> are a lot of people running in to rich issues with the TT downpipes and VF kits?


yes, and C2 SW as well


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

nice, any other ideas as to what I can use to space out the o2 because those napa foulers seem to be pretty brittle after a couple heat cycles...


----------



## tourvdub (Apr 5, 2004)

[email protected]

do you guys do sheet metal stuff like that? i'm local to you guys, if you could make me one i would be pumped. thanks.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

I am sure I could make one up for ya

-Noah


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

any anwser for me on that vacuume line for the DV?


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

DeckManDubs said:


> I am sure I could make one up for ya
> 
> -Noah


wanna put me on the list for one of those spacer! let me know if you are gonna make a batch, I will send you guys all of my info so I can get one out here asap. because I am hardly getting 200miles to the tank, car doesnt feel sluggish but, Im sure it cant hurt.:thumbup:


----------



## burnite2 (Jan 14, 2009)

littlenr said:


> Space the o2 sensor out of the exhaust a tad. Since you have headers and downpipe. Use a spark plug non- fouler. Just to space it out. Don't get the 42 draft design piece. That is for the rear o2. You want to do this on the front o2.


 i did the spark plug non-fouler after work and the wideband is now showing 12.5:1 at idle and around 11.5:1 AFR for cruise. alot of people have said that running cams would make the car run lean, but seem thats not the case for my car.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

euroguy666 said:


> any anwser for me on that vacuume line for the DV?


I just put a "T" fitting on my FPR and then ran a line down to the DV.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

burnite2 said:


> i did the spark plug non-fouler after work and the wideband is now showing 12.5:1 at idle and around 11.5:1 AFR for cruise. alot of people have said that running cams would make the car run lean, but seem thats not the case for my car.


what fuel pressure regulator are you using?


----------



## burnite2 (Jan 14, 2009)

littlenr said:


> what fuel pressure regulator are you using?


i'm using a 4 bar FPR that VF calls for.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

head spacer + new tune = 

Drove the car a lot last night, logging data, and all I can say is wow. I need to rent a dyno in the coming weeks, and figure out a little flutter at 4k rpms but other than that, it drives like a stock VR. It's really amazing.

anyone having issues with driveability, fed up with their ****ty off-the-shelf tunes, banging their heads against a never ending wall of problems; get wise. ditch the chip and get some MS.

If anyone running MS currently is interested, my buddy and I are trying to figure out a way to sell our tune. That would make it super easy for anyone wanting or currently having MS to get a great tune, right off the bat.

or any other program that records tunes in .msq files? Don't know how the others write tunes...


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

obdONE said:


> head spacer + new tune =
> 
> Drove the car a lot last night, logging data, and all I can say is wow. I need to rent a dyno in the coming weeks, and figure out a little flutter at 4k rpms but other than that, it drives like a stock VR. It's really amazing.
> 
> ...



Sounds wonderful. 

C2 just wrote me a 630cc file and I'm in heaven at the moment. Next time I need to change anything its going to be standalone.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

rock on Nate. that thing is going to be a beast when you're done with it. I'm just hoping to legitimately crack 300whp now. I'll be happy with that. I should be able to do it. I have enough tuning room to advance timing to where I need it to be. It's really just up to my belt being able to hold on and give me the boost I need to make the power.


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

obdONE said:


> head spacer + new tune =
> 
> Drove the car a lot last night, logging data, and all I can say is wow. I need to rent a dyno in the coming weeks, and figure out a little flutter at 4k rpms but other than that, it drives like a stock VR. It's really amazing.
> 
> ...


awesome!

My tune is coming along. It pulls wicked hard and w/ no issues... now I'm trying to figure out how to smooth out the fueling b/w shifts. Any ideas to try? I'm just sick of backfires while shifting during hard pulls. Otherwise, it's been a learning experience, but totally worth it!! 

I completely agree that standalone is the way to go. I can add an intercooler, change compression, add water/meth, change fuel pressure, change injectors... whatever... with no additional $$. Just the time to tune! And TunerStudioMS ROCKS!! 

Questions for you... Are you running MapDot or TPSDot accel enrichment? What parameters do you have set around EGO correction? And what are your open-loop settings?

:beer:
-Kyle


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

I have an ms 2.2 for sale feel free to pm me if your interisted.


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

What weight oil do you run in your car and what brand. Iv got a 02 vr with the vf kit, iv been running mobil 1 5-30 since I bought it (2years ago)but I'm not sure if i should change it since the kit has been added.any insight would be great.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

flybye1 said:


> What weight oil do you run in your car and what brand. Iv got a 02 vr with the vf kit, iv been running mobil 1 5-30 since I bought it (2years ago)but I'm not sure if i should change it since the kit has been added.any insight would be great.


I ruyn castrol 5w-40 in the winter and 20w-50 in the summer. Change it ever 5k miles.


----------



## burnite2 (Jan 14, 2009)

burnite2 said:


> hey guys, i need your help. this thing has gotten me stumped. the setup is VF stage 2, with GIAC software, 262 cams, ported EX manifolds and TT downpipe. i've replaced the coolant temp sensor, air intake sensor, O2 sensor, and MAF, and still cant get it to lean out. as of now, its running 12.8:1 to 13:1 AFR at idle, 12:1 at cruise, and about 9.8 to 10:1 at WOT. it does not have belt slip, and i cant find any vacuum leaks. any help would be great, i'm just about done with this project:banghead:





littlenr said:


> Space the o2 sensor out of the exhaust a tad. Since you have headers and downpipe. Use a spark plug non- fouler. Just to space it out. Don't get the 42 draft design piece. That is for the rear o2. You want to do this on the front o2.





burnite2 said:


> i did the spark plug non-fouler after work and the wideband is now showing 12.5:1 at idle and around 11.5:1 AFR for cruise. alot of people have said that running cams would make the car run lean, but seem thats not the case for my car.


any other suggestions for this, any would be great at this moment


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

Does anyone know where i can get the brass restrictor/check valve for the oil feed line on a v9? Need one like yesterday


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

does anyone know the size of the vacuum line on the FPR? OD? ID? and where i can get the stuff wrapped in the braided cloth like stock?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

lotar_6 said:


> Questions for you... Are you running MapDot or TPSDot accel enrichment? What parameters do you have set around EGO correction? And what are your open-loop settings?


I'm no tuner (I did this all with the help of my friend, who is) so if what I'm about to type makes no sense (I'm recalling this all from memory) tell me and I can find out in more detail.

The MAP should be given full authority to make changes. Unless you have a later hardware version of MS than I do, but MS1 doesn't give you the ability to blend MAP and TPS. If you can do that, that is the way to go.

The wideband should only be allowed to make changed at partial throttle. During idle or WOT you should have the authority set to narrowband so that the wideband cannot pull fueling, etc. adjusting the tune that you just made.

does this make sense?

AS far as the problems between shifts, have you tried using VE Analyize Live? I know it's kind of cheating, but it's actually quite awesome and perfect for smoothing out maps for cruising.


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

obdONE said:


> I'm no tuner (I did this all with the help of my friend, who is) so if what I'm about to type makes no sense (I'm recalling this all from memory) tell me and I can find out in more detail.
> 
> The MAP should be given full authority to make changes. Unless you have a later hardware version of MS than I do, but MS1 doesn't give you the ability to blend MAP and TPS. If you can do that, that is the way to go.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Jamie! I am running straight from the map and can't blend the tps. It only took me a day or two to figure out the default tps controlling was NOT the way to go! lol

I sat w/ a budy after autocrossing on Saturday since he has MS on his turbo miata. We both learned a little from each other, and the big thing I learned was about how to adjust the open loop settings. Basically what you were saying about preventing the EGO correction from adjusting the tune in the upper range of the map. I think there's a way to do the same on the low end, but the upper is my big concern now. 

He also showed me a custom filter for the MegaLog Viewer that can be put in VEanalyze Live (which I do use and it's super helpful!!) to prevent the VEA Live from making adjustments when you go off throttle quickly. Basically, if map changes a certain amount under a certain time, then nothing is adjusted. This has been an issue with me going WOT to off and visa versa in autocross. It keeps trying to lean me out. VEA Live is great b/c it's uses algorithms to adjust settings much faster and more accurately than I could do it. Not cheating in my book! But I'm still learning how to use it effectively. Setting it to adjust only over 1,500 rpm was a big step for me since it f'd my idle settings everytime I used it until then.

I still need to figure out the backfiring b/w shifts. I don't think there's much I can do, but I'm sure I can minimize it w/ some more tuning time. I'm just hunting for a quick solution.

Are you willing to share your spark map? I'm very conservative in this area and I think I can use some tweaking here to help with the backfires and squeeze more power out of it. I hope more people jump on the Stand Alone bandwagon... it would be good to get a larger community of dubbers (especially boosted VR owners) sharing this info!!

:beer:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

2tone12v said:


> Does anyone know where i can get the brass restrictor/check valve for the oil feed line on a v9? Need one like yesterday


vortech


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

Installed a 66" Dayco on my 24v with a V9. No belt slip. At all:thumbup:


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

2tone12v said:


> Does anyone know where i can get the brass restrictor/check valve for the oil feed line on a v9? Need one like yesterday


todd @ www.superchargerrebuilds.com :thumbup:


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

.LSinLV. said:


> todd @ www.superchargerrebuilds.com :thumbup:


yes! :thumbup:


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

lotar_6 said:


> Are you willing to share your spark map?



Well, like I said, I'm no tuner. My buddy wrote my spark map and gets a little tear in his eye every time he looks at it. Apparently he thinks it's a work of art 

I'll ask him about it and see what he says. However, keep in mind, I am running 8.5:1 compression, so I don't know if my spark map would actually help you at all.


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

obdONE said:


> Well, like I said, I'm no tuner. My buddy wrote my spark map and gets a little tear in his eye every time he looks at it. Apparently he thinks it's a work of art
> 
> I'll ask him about it and see what he says. However, keep in mind, I am running 8.5:1 compression, so I don't know if my spark map would actually help you at all.


no worries man... I understand. I spaced out to 9:1, so I'm not too far off. I'm also on 268˚ TT cams, euroclone intake, 510cc injectors, water injection, etc. etc.. Basically, I just want to see the curve. The values will be close, but not exactly the same. I just don't know what to think of it w/ nothing to compare it against. 

If you don't feel comfortable sharing his work, I totally dig it!! :thumbup: I should really get it on a dyno anyway...


----------



## burnite2 (Jan 14, 2009)

would my rich problem be caused by a dying coilpack? the coilpack just failed today and is missing on #1 and #6.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Yep, less spark = more unburnt fuel


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

.LSinLV. said:


> todd @ www.superchargerrebuilds.com :thumbup:


thanks, i just got my charger back from him and when installing i wasn't paying attention and snapped the fitting as i was snuggin the oil line but i called todd and he didn't have any but luckily vortech came thru on this one.

also quick question, before i sent the charger to get rebuit the whine from the charger wasn't that loud but the first day after rebuid the charger whine was loud and then the next day it wasn't again, any ideas why???


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

^ R U running a new belt?
it could have been too tight & has now stretched?


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

CorradoMagic said:


> ^ R U running a new belt?
> it could have been too tight & has now stretched?



Yup new belt but tightened the ish out of it as the first time I had it too loose that somehow the belt climbed a rib and was all crooked but now with the fresh a7 ceramic bearing rebuild I put it on and the whole time it was running and the ride I went on it wad whining loud sounded like someone real mad sharpening knives, and now the next day after it's cooled down the charger whines but nowhere near as loud and all the sound comes thru the air filter. Damn I hate beeing new to this charger stuff I always think stuff is wrong, I guess better b safe than sorry


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

2tone12v said:


> thanks, i just got my charger back from him and when installing i wasn't paying attention and snapped the fitting as i was snuggin the oil line but i called todd and he didn't have any but luckily vortech came thru on this one.
> 
> also quick question, before i sent the charger to get rebuit the whine from the charger wasn't that loud but the first day after rebuid the charger whine was loud and then the next day it wasn't again, any ideas why???



Not enough oil in the bearings yet??


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

took it back to the dyno yesterday to shake out the rest of the tune. I ended up making 275whp on a DynoJet, with a power curve smoother than stock. It's quite nice.

so, this is where my power quest ends. I didn't make 300whp, but I cam close, and the car runs amazingly well. That little v9 just doesn't flow enough air to make any more power than what I've got.

All in all though, I'm pretty happy. The car runs great, it's fun to drive, and I made more power than I did before, on 8.5:1 compression.

thanks to everyone's help along the way, I couldn't have done it without you guys. :beer:


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

obdONE said:


> took it back to the dyno yesterday to shake out the rest of the tune. I ended up making 275whp on a DynoJet, with a power curve smoother than stock. It's quite nice.
> 
> so, this is where my power quest ends. I didn't make 300whp, but I cam close, and the car runs amazingly well. That little v9 just doesn't flow enough air to make any more power than what I've got.
> 
> ...


:thumbup: FYI - I was able to get 276whp with a V9 on stock compression (10.5:1), [email protected] 11psi. what boost level are you at???


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Congrats Jamie :thumbup: You could toss in some cams and that will bump you into the 300's :laugh:


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

DeckManDubs said:


> Congrats Jamie :thumbup: You could toss in some cams and that will bump you into the 300's :laugh:


hahaha, Noah. poking the bear... poking the bear. 




.LSinLV. said:


> :thumbup: FYI - I was able to get 276whp with a V9 on stock compression (10.5:1), [email protected] 11psi. what boost level are you at???


I'm seeing 10psi at almost 7000 rpm. Power keeps climbing though, smooth and steady. Stock compression for me was 10.0:1 


Here's the sheet for scrutiny:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

obdONE said:


> hahaha, Noah. poking the bear... poking the bear.



That graph looks pretty good, nice and smooth in comparison of some of the ones I have seen. You know you want cams...$250+retune=30-40whp more


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

what tune is this?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

DeckManDubs said:


> That graph looks pretty good, nice and smooth in comparison of some of the ones I have seen. You know you want cams...$250+retune=30-40whp more


I may have done something last night that will completely change everything. We'll see.... I'm still dead-set on keeping my block completely stock though. :banghead:







CorradoMagic said:


> what tune is this?


my tune, or Larry's?


----------



## 6vdubbin9 (Apr 18, 2004)

this thread has so much good info! lovin it. i'm trying to figure something out myself. noah has chimed in on this and i figured why not ask the rest of you guys here as well. i've been in vr6's for over 8 years now. but supercharging one is somewhat still new to me. so bare with my newbness on this subject :thumbup:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5004494-Vortech-charger.-Having-a-lack-of-boost-issue.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

6vdubbin9 said:


> this thread has so much good info! lovin it. i'm trying to figure something out myself. noah has chimed in on this and i figured why not ask the rest of you guys here as well. i've been in vr6's for over 8 years now. but supercharging one is somewhat still new to me. so bare with my newbness on this subject :thumbup:
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5004494-Vortech-charger.-Having-a-lack-of-boost-issue.


some ideas added.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

oBDONE, YOUR TUNE?
MS ?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

obdONE said:


> I may have done something last night that will completely change everything. We'll see.... I'm still dead-set on keeping my block completely stock though. :banghead:



Hit the mega millions??? :laugh:


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

obdONE great work. glad the MS setup is working out so well for you.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

CorradoMagic said:


> oBDONE, YOUR TUNE?
> MS ?


Yeah, MS. I know you've been tottering back and forth with the idea of going standalone. I say do it. Talk to Paul, have him build you a controller, and then we can work something out with the tune. You'll be soooooo happy.




[email protected] said:


> Hit the mega millions??? :laugh:


damn, that would be GREAT!


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

2nd that "need_a_VR6" is def the go to guy for MS. im working on getting an 911 setup w/ him now, and im on the fence doing my vr6 next.


----------



## all-starr-me (Jul 14, 2003)

what size belt for a V1 C2 kit without A/C & 12 psi pulley?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

53.5"?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

I'm running a 53" belt: v9, 2.5" pulley (12psi), no a/c, single idler. hope that helps.




carsluTT said:


> obdONE great work. glad the MS setup is working out so well for you.


Didn't see that before. Thanks! :beer: And yes, Paul is the man. I've heard good things about DIY Autotune as well.


----------



## 6vdubbin9 (Apr 18, 2004)

How are you guys running a 53" belt? i have the 2.5" pulley no ac or ps pulley and i'm at 55.5..wtf. im gunna go look again i could be wrong. but i'm almost sure its 55.5. wow. after it has now stretched out im almost maxed out on the tensioner. but its tight as ishnit




edit for being a ruhtard.. 45.5" is what im at. 

so for the record: v9 w/ 2.5" pulley no ac or ps pulley=45"-45.5" belt


----------



## 976-RADD (May 29, 2003)

Can I run my air filter down in the charcoal canister hole, and still have room for the maf and a bung for the DV hose? Do I have to get one of those stubby intakes to make it fit?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

976-RADD said:


> Can I run my air filter down in the charcoal canister hole, and still have room for the maf and a bung for the DV hose? Do I have to get one of those stubby intakes to make it fit?


It will fit. Run the piping through the hole in the frame rail, and put the MAF housing under the frame rail. Then clamp your filter onto the MAF housing. The filter will sit low, really low, but that's good. The farther away from the blower inlet, the better, for more accurate MAF readings.

The DV return nipple should be up by the blower inlet, so you shouldn't have any problems with that.


----------



## 976-RADD (May 29, 2003)

Thanks.

Regading a mk2...

Currently, the filter is sitting horizonically behind the bumper, about halfway accross the car. With the rubber trim that goes between the grill and bumper missing, you can actually see part of the filter from the front of the car. I would like to remount it, vertically, to keep water from collecting in the grooves. 

How do all of you deal with the limited options SC'ed VRs have for intake placement?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

976-RADD said:


> How do all of you deal with the limited options SC'ed VRs have for intake placement?


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

i have an 91' golf w/ v1 charged vr6. my intake is setup basically the same as how " obdONE" has shown his car is set up. i bought one of the C2 vortech intakes and it didn't fit at all in my car. i had to cut it 100% apart and rebuild it to fit.


----------



## 976-RADD (May 29, 2003)

obdONE, you don't worry about rain?


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

976-RADD said:


> Thanks.
> 
> Regading a mk2...
> 
> ...


 
on my MK2 I used a few silicone couplers and a a few reducing bends and came up with this as my final placement









w/o bumper










yes I worry about rain, but its an occasional car, built for fun and thats it I just put a hood BACK on it after year of hoodless bliss.

as far as your mk2 is concerned, do you have foglights? it is possible to keep the filter closer to the pass side, more behind the bumper and still have adequate spacing for the MAF, but maybe not if you have fogs. how small/short is your air filter?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

Name's Jamie.

No, I don't worry about water at all. 1) It's not a daily driver; 2) Even with water hitting the front, the entire back side of the element will stay fairly dry. So as long as I don't go through a puddle, it should be fine. Of course, I wouldn't want to be stuck in a rain storm with it.

I'll sell it to you if you're looking for a solution. It has easily decreased my intake temps by 20* while actually giving the blower an adequate amount of air flow :thumbup:


----------



## 976-RADD (May 29, 2003)

I have room if I want to run the filter horizonally, in front of the rad, but I don't. 

The other day I washed the car, paying close attention to the filter. Little did I know, water pooled from somewhere above and filled the ridges in the filter, or so I assume. Started the car, went to let the clutch out, and the car jerked forward a few times and shut down before I could grab the key.

I figure I sucked in about a quarter cup. Hopefully it's just my MAF that'd phucked.

Anyone relocate the battery to the back and mount the filter in its place?


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

anyways, been gone for a while.... changing my setup some 

it will now be 

v1s trim with 2.87 pulley
36lb c2 s/w
mk4 headgasket
shrick 268 cams, the autotech 262's starter flaking metal off of the lobes after 5k miles:banghead:
ported exhaust manifolds,
dual 2 in down pipe to a 3 inch collector
3 inch full exhaust with magniflo high flo cat and borla xr1 muffler
vortech mondo bypass valve
labonte stage 4 w/m kit


i am curious how the cams are going to be with FI but only time will tell, i am in a rush to get the car back together for H2o:beer:


----------



## all-starr-me (Jul 14, 2003)

ended up throwing the 10psi pulley back on since the closest belt we could get on it was a 6 rib 60.5" one and thats all the way out even at the end of adjustment. will be looking for a 7 rib 59" or so dayco soon.


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

websaabn said:


> anyways, been gone for a while.... changing my setup some
> 
> it will now be
> 
> ...


How well does your car run with the maf that far away from the charger? i'm assuming c2 software?


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

cjm722 said:


> How well does your car run with the maf that far away from the charger? i'm assuming c2 software?


amazing, I run it the same way on my R32


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

websaabn said:


> amazing, I run it the same way on my R32


I currently have my maf about 12" front the charger then pipe to behind the drivers headlight fender area like your car and i have a slight bucking under light load, i think i may move my maf like you have yours, thanks for the idea!!!


----------



## 976-RADD (May 29, 2003)

Anybody have experience with K&N's Drycharger? I know it won't stop "all" water, but it should help.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

I have used another brand before K&N bought them out. Its works quite well. It def keeps the filter cleaner/longer and 'splashed' water simply bounces off instead of soaking in. :thumbup:


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

With a new head, 

SRI,

head spacer,

12 psi pully,

Cam's 262 or 268s

and a few other mods like meth injection, TT down pipes ect, you should be able to just make 300 WHP with your v9. I almost have all those mods done so i will let you know soon. Verdict did on evens GTI i think it was 313 WHP w.o meth injection 
*
Also i have a GIAC stage II tune for sale CHEAP *


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

So I'm going to redo the wiring for the extension on the MAF plug, now for secureness, i know that soldering is better, but it can raise resistance some, so is it better to solder than just say using bullet connectors?


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

I soldered mine over a year ago, no issues. I was having issues with the stupid crimp connectors that were on the extension harness with the VF kit, they wouldn't stay securely connected, so obviously the CEL would come on. 

Someone can correct me, but if you do a good job, soldering shouldn't make any issues for you on this application. I did a lot of cutting, extending, and soldering of wires when I did my shaved bay, and there haven't been any issues.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

who all is going to H2O???


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

dasGolf01 said:


> So I'm going to redo the wiring for the extension on the MAF plug, now for secureness, i know that soldering is better, but it can raise resistance some, so is it better to solder than just say using bullet connectors?


 every single wire in my EFI has been cut and soldered at least 2 times and my car runs just fine. i dont trust crimp style connectors to hold for ever.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

i extended my MAF wires and soldered them all. havnt had any issues either:thumbup:


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

H20: 
I'll be there w/ SC rado :thumbup: 


I've also extended my MAF wires quite a bit. Used same ga. wires & soldered them, extended my MAF to area under front mount. No issues :thumbup:


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

littlenr said:


> who all is going to H2O???


 this guy if i ever get the wifes car back together I will be at the FI GTG


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

H2O... can't wait! 

A few of us are headed down a couple days early for some r&r. Hope to see most of you East Coast guys there :beer: 



websaabn said:


> this guy if i ever get the wifes car back together I will be at the FI GTG


 If the cabby makes an appearance, I want a ride :laugh:


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> H2O... can't wait!
> 
> A few of us are headed down a couple days early for some r&r. Hope to see most of you East Coast guys there :beer:
> 
> ...


 
:laugh: looking like it will, but i am going to trailor it up to md..... stilll not running at the moment, hopefully by monday it will be good to go :banghead:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

websaabn said:


> this guy if i ever get the wifes car back together I will be at the FI GTG


 I'm going to try and make the FI GTG. Friday is my travel day and I'm thinking I'll be in OCMD by 7.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

littlenr said:


> I'm going to try and make the FI GTG. Friday is my travel day and I'm thinking I'll be in OCMD by 7.


 awesome i hope you make it:thumbup: I hope i make it too :laugh: 

here is how the car sits at the moment


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

Awesome, thanks, I think that's my issue too, getting the CEL off and on, but I have a new MAF in there. I was mildly worried about the possible addition of resistance from the solder causing MAF issues, but I'll be soldering in the stuff this weekend then. Thanks for all the replies, folks. :beer:


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

dasGolf01 said:


> Awesome, thanks, I think that's my issue too, getting the CEL off and on, but I have a new MAF in there. I was mildly worried about the possible addition of resistance from the solder causing MAF issues, but I'll be soldering in the stuff this weekend then. Thanks for all the replies, folks. :beer:


 yea as long as you do it rite you will have no problems, my whole ecu harness has been hacked and stretched 6 feet


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

websaabn said:


> yea as long as you do it rite you will have no problems, my whole ecu harness has been hacked and stretched 6 feet


 Yeah, mah daddy done taut me write on sodrin' hehehe.. heat the wire, Justin, not the solder.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

i love it that both you guys misspelled 'right' in two different forms. :laugh:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

lol


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

obdONE said:


> i love it that both you guys misspelled 'right' in two different forms. :laugh:


 :laugh:


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

ill be in ocean city by early afternoon wednesday. haha i needed a vacation. :beer: if anyone has SC goodies for sale and is bringing them down, lmk. boost guage catch can, pulleys ect


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

another quick question... 
the set up is v9 with 12lb pulley and fresh a7 ceramic rebuild 
268's 
short runner 
intercooled 
36lb injectors 
united motorsports software-race file 

car seems to run good at idle and a lil hesitation on throttle and even more if u just stomp on the throtle but DBW is probably having something to do with that at that point but when i let off the throtle the car breaks up ALOT all the time. i have ngk bkr7e plugs gapped at .24, should i try a different gap like the standard .28? would that help me? thinking of getting the iridium plugs so i want to make sure i gap them right


----------



## 95golfgti (Jun 21, 2008)

Got a little work done on the VR6 procharger p600b build this weekend. kit was first designed by el drifto and I just redesigned a little bit of the bracket. Everything went together good. Still messing around with trying to fit the intake with the maf inside the fender well. If anyone can post pic up of there intake it could help. I dont see how a maf and filter fit in the little area. BTW Im still running all the a/c stuff so a little less room. 

Another question I have has anyone ran a mustang tb on an obd 1 intake? I have one sitting around and looks like if you were to redrill the holes it will bolt on. Just didnt know about the TPS and how to do the linkage. Both TPS are 3 wire. Power ground and signal? I know the tps on the mustang tb is adjustable on the volts by turning the tps itself and it runs from low voltage closed to high open. What does the vr6 run voltage wise? low for close and increasing while it opens? 

One pic I have


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

95golfgti said:


> Got a little work done on the VR6 procharger p600b build this weekend. kit was first designed by el drifto and I just redesigned a little bit of the bracket. Everything went together good. Still messing around with trying to fit the intake with the maf inside the fender well. If anyone can post pic up of there intake it could help. I dont see how a maf and filter fit in the little area. BTW Im still running all the a/c stuff so a little less room.
> 
> Another question I have has anyone ran a mustang tb on an obd 1 intake? I have one sitting around and looks like if you were to redrill the holes it will bolt on. Just didnt know about the TPS and how to do the linkage. Both TPS are 3 wire. Power ground and signal? I know the tps on the mustang tb is adjustable on the volts by turning the tps itself and it runs from low voltage closed to high open. What does the vr6 run voltage wise? low for close and increasing while it opens?
> 
> One pic I have


 nice :thumbup: makes me want a procharger even more


----------



## 95golfgti (Jun 21, 2008)

The bracket isnt that hard to make. I was thinking about making a few templates and mailing them to whoever wanted them but nvr ended up getting around to it but if I pull the charger off sometime ill try and make a template. I need to make the tensenor bracket out of steel instead of aluminum. The aluminum has to much flex for when I go to tension the belt. 


i have searched and searched and cant seem to find what I do with the hose that went to the canister. Do I take the sensor out and loop the two hose together and delete the one to the intake?


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

I will also be at h20 castle sands to be exact


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

2tone12v said:


> another quick question...
> the set up is v9 with 12lb pulley and fresh a7 ceramic rebuild
> 268's
> short runner
> ...


 
This seems to happen with all of Jeffs tunes. Have you logged your air/fuels when this happens? 



95golfgti said:


> Got a little work done on the VR6 procharger p600b build this weekend. kit was first designed by el drifto and I just redesigned a little bit of the bracket.
> 
> 
> One pic I have


 
Very nice!!! Making your brackets out of steel and then having them coated for protection would increase the robustness of your setup. The only thing your going to want to be careful of is how much load you put on the three M8x1.25 holes in the head. With the blower and brackets hanging off those they tend to pull the threads out or flex a bit. This is why I designed the support brackets that allow another point of attachment for all the AMS/C2/Eurotech brackets.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

:beer::beer::beerrove the Cabriolet today for the first time in almost 2 years 60 miles no problems YES!!


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

id like to see how much strength the Verdict Motorsports brace really adds. i like it but am not totally sure its much help. guess any help is better than no help.


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

DeckManDubs said:


> This seems to happen with all of Jeffs tunes. Have you logged your air/fuels when this happens?


 no i haven't because someone that previously worked on my car (possible audio install) did something wrong to where now i have problems with the k line and 9 outta 10 times i have no comunication with the car through my vag-com, and i have no idea how to approach this issue. also the times i was able to get in the cars system was only for a few minutes to check and erase codes and i keep getting a CEL every time it goes full throttle and is boostin and it comes up as bank 1 too rich, do i have to space the first o2 sensor to fix this? and also my previous question, will it be better to have my plugs gapped to .28? 

again thanks alot to everyone, i don't know what i would do without this thread and the help from all of you guys:beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

Btw, I also removed the cat and put in a test pipe


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

How meney of you are running megasquirt and have you had any issues. Did you build it your self or buy it premade? Where did you find perrams for your car.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

gave the cabriolet a little workout, it still rips the tires loose in the top of second from a roll with the 215/40/16 bfg kdw2's pulls HARD......... forgot how much fun a mk1 with some mods is


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

obdONE said:


> i love it that both you guys misspelled 'right' in two different forms. :laugh:


 Hehehe that was on purpose as I was using terrible grammar as well. :laugh:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

websaabn said:


> gave the cabriolet a little workout, it still rips the tires loose in the top of second from a roll with the 215/40/16 bfg kdw2's pulls HARD......... forgot how much fun a mk1 with some mods is


 :laugh:


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

websaabn said:


> forgot how much fun a mk1 with some mods is


 You really are modest eh?... A blown VR6 is hardly a MK1 with _some mods_. 

:laugh:


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

MeCarTay said:


> You really are modest eh?... A blown VR6 is hardly a MK1 with _some mods_.
> 
> :laugh:


 
:laugh: its mild for now just wait until i am done remodeling my house


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*1450 Cogged HP*

yep. 1450 Cogged SC'er goodness.









This guy won best engine at a show I was at last wkend.

the Procharger intake was like 5-6", same for the plumbing to his back seat A/W that was the size a the hugest igloo cooler u can think of. 
.....all on 27psi ... and has gone to 36!!! :what:

3 bar, 160#, stand alone +++++

more sho pics here. http://gallery.me.com/thedubnutz#100485&view=grid&bgcolor=black&sel=0


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

We need to figure out how to fit one of those to a Vr and then somehow fit it in the engine bay of a vw. What ya say Keith, can we do it?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

2tone12v said:


> We need to figure out how to fit one of those to a Vr and then somehow fit it in the engine bay of a vw. What ya say Keith, can we do it?


I was looking at a D1sc Procharger when I did my set up. Just went with what I had unfortunately.


----------



## 2tone12v (Sep 27, 2006)

I'd love to have that also my friend :beer:


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

flybye1 said:


> How meney of you are running megasquirt and have you had any issues. Did you build it your self or buy it premade? Where did you find perrams for your car.


PM me if you have specific questions.


----------



## Kieranp (Oct 25, 2008)

Did have a build thread over on the .:R32 section, but it disappeared.

Spec:
UK/European MKIV R32 
Rotrex C30-94 supercharger
4”MAF 
550cc injectors (OEM FPR)
Unitedmotorsport (uk) software 
Wossner Low compression pistons 
Extra in line fuel pump (warlbro)
Aquamist water & meth injection 50/50 mix.
Milltek manifolds, hi flow sports cats, resonated center section and back box.

Head off, new pistons fitted 









Supercharger and extra fuel pump, the fuel pump has now been re located the back by the tank. 









All finished and back together









The kit was fitted last October, went on the dyno for the first time yesterday with the current set up 

Dyno results:
Power run done in 3rd gear, 4wd.

Wheel HP









Flywheel HP


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

God Bless ROTREX!

Isaam was putting together some kits based on Rotrex chargers. I was talking to him about it a while ago. For the money, it can't be beat!


----------



## blkgtiberto (Mar 11, 2004)

I remember seeing him talk about that. Was anything more said about getting the kits put together. I know he is a lot of different pies most of the time so its probably not a major issue. I have been playing with the idea for awhile about using a Rotrex but money never seems to be as big as my dreams.


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

I'm sure some of you have seen this, but just in case:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...harger-System-for-VW-MK3-UPDATED-amp-UPGRADED

Almost makes me want to get another VW....Almost....


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

Uggh, I wonder what it would take to retrofit one of these in place of my V9...
http://www.urdusa.com/product_info.php?cPath=168_116&products_id=1260518523


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

blkgtiberto said:


> I remember seeing him talk about that. Was anything more said about getting the kits put together. I know he is a lot of different pies most of the time so its probably not a major issue. I have been playing with the idea for awhile about using a Rotrex but money never seems to be as big as my dreams.


I was emailing him back and forth at length about this. I think he's basically looking for someone to be the test bed for an actual kit. The prices we're not bad considering the performance output. If you are interested in it, I would just email him about it.





Lew_Dog said:


> I'm sure some of you have seen this, but just in case:
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...harger-System-for-VW-MK3-UPDATED-amp-UPGRADED
> 
> Almost makes me want to get another VW....Almost....


srsly? $4000.00 for another **** s/c kit, sold by a company that couldn't give two f_cks about it's clientele? If people spent the time and effort required to learn how to piece together and FI kit themselves, based on a turbo instead, they would be so much happier in the end. Sometimes I wonder what we're all smoking when I think of the **** we have to deal with because we decided to go s/c instead of turbo...


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Lew_Dog said:


> I'm sure some of you have seen this, but just in case:
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...harger-System-for-VW-MK3-UPDATED-amp-UPGRADED
> 
> Almost makes me want to get another VW....Almost....



The only thing that suck is that they designed that setup about 10 years ago...made a couple kits and then went to the V9 units. 

Should have been selling that setup from the get-go.

The "almost" part have anything to do with their product support? :laugh: 

Funny story on that one:
I call tech support as the idler for non-ac was not in the kit. 

"Hello" - VF
"Hi, I am calling as I purchased one of your Corrado kits with out AC and did not receive the idler."- Me
"This is my personal number, never call me again (hangs up)" - VF

I was like WTF? Guess they needed to update the instructions with another phone # perhaps.


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

obdONE said:


> srsly? $4000.00 for another **** s/c kit, sold by a company that couldn't give two f_cks about it's clientele? If people spent the time and effort required to learn how to piece together and FI kit themselves, based on a turbo instead, they would be so much happier in the end. Sometimes I wonder what we're all smoking when I think of the **** we have to deal with because we decided to go s/c instead of turbo...


:what: 

Whoah...

I must be the only one that had a great experience with VF and my kit. My car (03 24v GTI) ran flawless for 3 years. Always got a reply from someone very quickly or would call and get someone after a couple of rings.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

vrDUCKin said:


> Uggh, I wonder what it would take to retrofit one of these in place of my V9...
> http://www.urdusa.com/product_info.php?cPath=168_116&products_id=1260518523



just email Isaam. He can get you the charger and a bracket with idler / tensioner, which is really all you would need. :thumbup:



Funny thing: I clicked on that link and saw this picture:









I never realized it before, but the compressor side of rotrex blowers is nothing more than the compressor from a Holset turbo! Makes perfect sense to me now why people say they are so stout. Holset is a UK turbo company that is the OEM supplier to Cummins. Good **** right there :thumbup:


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

I'll keep that in mind for if/when the V9 needs another rebuild. Vortech did it under warranty 2k miles ago, when it blew after only 10k. They said they wont rebuild it again because I overtightened the belt...because they can just assume that


----------



## mars2 (Sep 16, 2008)

Kieranp said:


> Did have a build thread over on the .:R32 section, but it disappeared.
> 
> Spec:
> UK/European MKIV R32
> ...


468,6 HP to 362,9HP is 22,6% drivtrain loss. isn't that huge drive train loss? By the way 360 WHP is same as HPA TYPHOON


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

does anyone know the number of K&N Air Filter Wrap for filter that comes with vf set to vr6 12v??

http://www.knfilters.com/search/wrap.aspx


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

mars2 said:


> 468,6 HP to 362,9HP is 22,6% drivtrain loss. isn't that huge drive train loss? By the way 360 WHP is same as HPA TYPHOON


that seems about right. dont forget, it is awd


----------



## 976-RADD (May 29, 2003)

Praks said:


> does anyone know the number of K&N Air Filter Wrap for filter that comes with vf set to vr6 12v??
> 
> http://www.knfilters.com/search/wrap.aspx


Not sure if I'm having the same problem as you, but I've tried to buy a DryCharger for my K&N recently. I measured 8" tall x 4.5" accross ("round filter"). Aparently, K&N does not list a filter that size on their site. The closest DryCharger they sell is 8.5" x 5". 

Measure yours and check their list for a matching filter.


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

DeckManDubs said:


> The only thing that suck is that they designed that setup about 10 years ago...made a couple kits and then went to the V9 units.
> 
> Should have been selling that setup from the get-go.
> 
> The "almost" part have anything to do with their product support? :laugh:


Strange..I didn't think the V-3 was around that long. I thought is was something that was recently released. At least other MKIII owners can get in on it. :thumbup: Just hope GIAC updated the tune..

The "almost" part is not due to VF's support. I had a 100% positive experience with them in every way. The "almost" part is that I may go back to my roots..JDM...


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Lew_Dog said:


> Strange..I didn't think the V-3 was around that long. I thought is was something that was recently released. At least other MKIII owners can get in on it. :thumbup: Just hope GIAC updated the tune..
> 
> The "almost" part is not due to VF's support. I had a 100% positive experience with them in every way. The "almost" part is that I may go back to my roots..JDM...


 What did you end up going back to? STI?

James @ Four Seasons has been running a V3 for over a year now with his brackets. The V3 is some what new technology, Procharger has been doing it for quite a few years now and Vortech finally caught up with them in that aspect. Makes life a peach when it comes to installing and un-installing them. The good news is that the VF brackets are the same as the AMS ones so the support brackets will bolt right on. As well as anyone chasing down parts for an old AMS kit can most likely use some of the VF ones when they get parted and things go missing. Personal

The only thing I really dont like is the plastic charge piping, as it tends to deform over time as heat is induced into the setup. I will be interested to see how the setups perform in comparison to some of the setups I have built. :laugh: I wonder what they are going to raise the price to after the 30 days, I would guess at least 4.5k or 5k. Like what Jamie said, you can build a pretty gnarly setup of piecing it together and running standalone for that price. But it still cant beat how available turbo setups are as well as the cost effectiveness for power.

Personally I have always loved superchargers due to their mechanical components and operation, but turbo setups can be fun when done right. 



mars2 said:


> 468,6 HP to 362,9HP is 22,6% drivtrain loss. isn't that huge drive train loss? By the way 360 WHP is same as HPA TYPHOON


 Those are some nice #'s Mars :beer: any videos of you doing some runs?


----------



## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

DeckManDubs said:


> What did you end up going back to? STI?


Nothing yet..As of now it's between Subaru, Mitsi, and VW (MKIV R32). Possibly a used MS3, but really want to go back to AWD. 



DeckManDubs said:


> The only thing I really dont like is the plastic charge piping, as it tends to deform over time as heat is induced into the setup. I will be interested to see how the setups perform in comparison to some of the setups I have built. :laugh: I wonder what they are going to raise the price to after the 30 days, I would guess at least 4.5k or 5k. Like what Jamie said, you can build a pretty gnarly setup of piecing it together and running standalone for that price. But it still cant beat how available turbo setups are as well as the cost effectiveness for power.


I don't know why they went to plastic. I do know they still had some metal ones when I needed to replace some piping. This was over a year ago though. Jamie is right..However, how hard do you need to search to piece-meal a system together? Then there's the chance the blower is shot and then there's more time and money spent on a rebuild kit. Then there's the phone call to get a kit pulled off the shelf and installed a day or two. Sometimes time is more valuable than money...  But to each their own...:thumbup:

If I ever did get a MKIII, it would be tough on what to do...Kinetic's kits are very solid for the money, PLUS the options to do your own custom build are endless..


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Lew_Dog said:


> Nothing yet..As of now it's between Subaru, Mitsi, and VW (MKIV R32). Possibly a used MS3, but really want to go back to AWD.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


It is nice to make that call and have hp arrive a few days later that bolts right on. I did this when I bought their stage I and II. Since then I have bought up a couple AMS kits just to part them out as they can be had cheap with blown blowers, then you can get a nice T-trim. The MK4 is a lot harder to piece a kit together tho. 

After seeing what bolt on hp compares to the one-offs that are tailored for the car, its a real eye opener. I will have mine done in the late spring, quite a bit of extra engineering is going into making a 300whp 12psi setup. But that is being slowed right now by a few other projects.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

hey guys. kit is going on this weekend. only thing stopping me is the maf wires. do they sell an extender? like plug and play? or do you HAVE to cut and splice wires? that scares me to just cut those very important wires if not needed


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

DeckManDubs said:


> I will have mine done in the late spring, quite a bit of extra engineering is going into making a 300whp 12psi setup. But that is being slowed right now by a few other projects.




You should know what you are getting into since you drove my car.... I'm just saying.


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

i had no idea VF was in "Anaheim, CA" i drive thru that area probably once every other week. wonder if they would let me stop in and check out some stuff. ill be sure to leave my non vf powerd car at home on that trip


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

littlenr said:


> You should know what you are getting into since you drove my car.... I'm just saying.




Oh I know, the box's of parts are taunting me already. So when are you going to take those other brackets off my hands :laugh:



carsluTT said:


> ill be sure to leave my non vf powerd car at home on that trip


:laugh:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

DeckManDubs said:


> Oh I know, the box's of parts are taunting me already. So when are you going to take those other brackets off my hands :laugh:
> 
> 
> 
> :laugh:




I'll send you a pm.


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

euroguy666 said:


> hey guys. kit is going on this weekend. only thing stopping me is the maf wires. do they sell an extender? like plug and play? or do you HAVE to cut and splice wires? that scares me to just cut those very important wires if not needed


The VF kits did include an extension harness, which required cutting the existing harness, and crimping the extension in. However, the crimp connectors suck, so most people end up soldering it anyway. Just get a bunch of wire in the same gauge, and extend each wire one at a time. It's really not hard, and you wont risk having issues if a crimp connector fails.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

oh and also, anyone have a decent picture of the type of fitting and where you screw it into on the oil filter housing for the feed line? i dont want to go buy the wrong thing.


----------



## 6vdubbin9 (Apr 18, 2004)

euroguy666 said:


> oh and also, anyone have a decent picture of the type of fitting and where you screw it into on the oil filter housing for the feed line? i dont want to go buy the wrong thing.


I believe... http://www.kineticmotorsport.com/products/1_8_NPT_Brass_3_way_Tee-393-5.html


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

6vdubbin9 said:


> I believe... http://www.kineticmotorsport.com/products/1_8_NPT_Brass_3_way_Tee-393-5.html



:beer: thanks man. 2 female and one male. thats what i needed. i think ill be good now. are there options where to go on the housing? or is there just one? i see those 2 colored plugs on top of the housing. not that right? hard 2 see


----------



## 6vdubbin9 (Apr 18, 2004)

euroguy666 said:


> :beer: thanks man. 2 female and one male. thats what i needed. i think ill be good now. are there options where to go on the housing? or is there just one? i see those 2 colored plugs on top of the housing. not that right? hard 2 see


Yes that. I used the oil temp sensor spot.(One on the pass. side of the car.) Easiest one to use imo.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)




----------



## pressplay (Jun 25, 2008)

*Need Help. Car won't stay idle*

Hey guys

My MK4 has VF Stage 2 set up and it's been running fine for about a year until yesterday. Tried starting up and car won't stay idle. It cranks over hangs around 3k rpm and then just dies. Check engine light came on and pulled the following fault codes. Any ideas what I need to do to get it running again? 

17511 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S1: Performance too Low 
P1103 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17796 - Control Module Malfunction - DBW Throttle Monitoring 
P1388 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

pressplay said:


> Hey guys
> 
> My MK4 has VF Stage 2 set up and it's been running fine for about a year until yesterday. Tried starting up and car won't stay idle. It cranks over hangs around 3k rpm and then just dies. Check engine light came on and pulled the following fault codes. Any ideas what I need to do to get it running again?
> 
> ...


have you taken the battery loose anytime recent? I'd re-adapt your throttle body and go from there. Clear the codes and see what comes back. That will tell you what your issue is.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

i have a weird ass tune. old school from atp. im looking for a #30 obd2 tune from c2. anyone getting rid of theirs?


----------



## FQP VR6 (Nov 7, 2002)

*Need some help with my setup*

Hello all, 

I am currently in the midst of a rather substantial overhaul on my 2000 VR6. 

The car was sitting all summer waiting for me to spare some time and take care of a leaking water pump. 

So, i got into the job last weekend. Removed the charger V9-F running a S1 VF-engineering setup, 

replaced water pump, alternator and throttle body. Water pump was leaking but the car has 143k and that was still the original pump, alternator was still working but i replaced it since i had a newer one laying around and the throttle body could no longer perform an alignment and it made drive ability miserable. 

The motor is really sound. No oil consumption at all, however before i parked it last spring i noticed the charger was in need of a rebuild as from time to time after prolongued deceleration and low power usage i could see a puff o smoke come out the tail pipe. In fact the charge pipes are nicely coated in oil. 

I put the charger on the car when it had 97k, and the charger was used. By now it should have roughly 100k on it. 

Anyhow here is the question, while i am in there i'd like to put an 8psi pulley on but then i would need to rectify the fueling and software as it already runs lean with the 6psi pulley on the stock VF engineering stg. 1 software and 4 bar fpr. The car is also catless and have a 2.75" exhaust all the way out from the header with a bosal muffler, so it is not restricted on that side at all. 

Where can i buy a good fueling kit and 8psi pulley? Is the 8 psi pulley for the V9-F on a 2.8 VR6 a 2.75" diameter pulley? I've been out of the loop for quite some time so any help you can provide i would appreciate it. 
I read that most of you use C2Motorsports fueling kits. But i know those are really meant for turbo setups. Also, any idea where i can find a v9-F charger rebuild kit. I'd hate to throw away $800 to perform such a simple task especially now that is on my workbench.

Thank you so much.

Regards, 
Francesco


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

FQP VR6 said:


> Hello all,
> 
> I am currently in the midst of a rather substantial overhaul on my 2000 VR6.
> 
> ...


Francesco,

As far as software goes, send me your complete ecu#, I have a customer with a Stg2 VF/GIAC Tune for the AFP that may or may not work depending which ecu you have.

Check out www.superchargerrebuilds.com for V9 rebuild kits.

Welcome :beer:


----------



## FQP VR6 (Nov 7, 2002)

[email protected] said:


> Francesco,
> 
> As far as software goes, send me your complete ecu#, I have a customer with a Stg2 VF/GIAC Tune for the AFP that may or may not work depending which ecu you have.
> 
> ...


I sent you a pm.

Thanks


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

euroguy666 said:


> i have a weird ass tune. old school from atp. im looking for a #30 obd2 tune from c2. anyone getting rid of theirs?


C2 has 36# OBD2 TUNES, 30# IS FOR OBD1


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

CorradoMagic said:


> C2 has 36# OBD2 TUNES, 30# IS FOR OBD1


Their site says OBD1- 36# and OBD2- 30# or 42#....


----------



## LR-60 (Dec 18, 2008)

FQP VR6 said:


> Hello all,
> 
> I am currently in the midst of a rather substantial overhaul on my 2000 VR6.
> 
> ...


My Mk4 VF Stage 2 kit came with a 2.88" diameter 8 psi pulley (12V). So using the conversion formula of: new boost = old boost X ( [old dia. / new dia.] sqd.) a 2.75" pulley = 8.8 psi.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

littlenr said:


> Their site says OBD1- 36# and OBD2- 30# or 42#....


yeah its an error on their site... im just asking if anyone has stuff laying around to sell... dont feel like paying 300 for the tune if i can get what i want used for cheaper...


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Does anyone have a picture of the belt routing of the VF kit with the optional bracket installed for better belt wrap or commonly call the non-a/c brackets on an Mk3 VR6? I am just trying to see how they have things routed. Or installation instructions for thier kit?


----------



## slammed86golf (Aug 2, 2006)

hey guys i am looking to sc my daily glx but not sure how bad the gas milage will get some input from all of you work be great. thanks


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

slammed86golf said:


> hey guys i am looking to sc my daily glx but not sure how bad the gas milage will get some input from all of you work be great. thanks



With stock gearing you will prolly see ~20 city/26 highway, less if you have a heavy foot. With a TDI 5th I was getting 24/29 on 30# injectors. Running 42's or 60's will have you more down around the 20mpg mark.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

[email protected] said:


> With stock gearing you will prolly see ~20 city/26 highway, less if you have a heavy foot. With a TDI 5th I was getting 24/29 on 30# injectors. Running 42's or 60's will have you more down around the 20mpg mark.


I hit 26mpg on the way home from H2O with 630cc injectors and a loaded down car. 3 people and luggage!!


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

littlenr said:


> I hit 26mpg on the way home from H2O with 630cc injectors and a loaded down car. 3 people and luggage!!


I think Noah is talking about the stock Corrado gearing or perhaps his 4.24 with stock 5th which is a blast. 
:laugh:

Not to mention ME7>ME5


----------



## slammed86golf (Aug 2, 2006)

i will keep the stock glx trany. i am looking to make arounf 270-280whp, no need for more my toy is a mk2 1.8t with a pte6262. just need some more power for the daily now


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

okay, seriously, does anyone know anything about atp's #30 tune?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

euroguy666 said:


> okay, seriously, does anyone know anything about atp's #30 tune?


Works pretty good, will support ~270/280whp


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> Works pretty good, will support ~270/280whp


yeah? u have experience with this tune? if so, i need to pick your brain a bit. i cannot find any info on it bc atp doesnt do SC'ed stuff nemore.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

euroguy666 said:


> yeah? u have experience with this tune? if so, i need to pick your brain a bit. i cannot find any info on it bc atp doesnt do SC'ed stuff nemore.



No problem, I do have a little experience with it and remember a few cars running it.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

in addition to the one I'm running already!


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

littlenr said:


> in addition to the one I'm running already!


:laugh:


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> No problem, I do have a little experience with it and remember a few cars running it.


cool just a few questions. i hear this kit runs kinda rich. its a 310cc tune with injectors. but it came with the biggest pulley. 3 inch and change i think (6psi) also, the kid i got it from said he ran stock maf. the kid sold me the **** id stages. i bought stage 1. but most companies sell stage 1 as stock injectors and a chip for that but the 6psi pulley. now my questions are, what size maf should i use? with the 310cc injectors and tune, should i step up the boost 2 lean it out a bit? and any other little facts you have about this software would be awesome. im eventually going c2, but i have this tune now and have other things 2 spend 300 bucks on
thanks in advance!


----------



## LowLife (Jun 30, 2005)

After reading aprox. 40 pages of this thread, new understanding has come. But, I still do have a question that has been brought to my attention and need advice from those with experience. My 98 VR, was purchased with a 9:1 (I believe) head spacer with APR bolts, some minor port and polish work done, and a 2.5" TT exhaust. The owner had plans on big boost I assume, but never got around to it. My current plan is to run a VF stage 2 kit on the car with the kits GIAC software, but concerned after others have stated that the car will not run well. Will the low compression setup I have really cause the kit to run that off? I am currently at 4700ft above sea level.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

[email protected] said:


> With stock gearing you will prolly see ~20 city/26 highway, less if you have a heavy foot. With a TDI 5th I was getting 24/29 on 30# injectors. Running 42's or 60's will have you more down around the 20mpg mark.


With 42's you'll be lucky to see 20mpgs with the AC on. The 60# C2 ProMAF tune averages about the same but the economy goes up to almost 30mpg crusing on the freeway.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

euroguy666 said:


> cool just a few questions. i hear this kit runs kinda rich. its a 310cc tune with injectors. but it came with the biggest pulley. 3 inch and change i think (6psi) also, the kid i got it from said he ran stock maf. the kid sold me the **** id stages. i bought stage 1. but most companies sell stage 1 as stock injectors and a chip for that but the 6psi pulley. now my questions are, what size maf should i use? with the 310cc injectors and tune, should i step up the boost 2 lean it out a bit? and any other little facts you have about this software would be awesome. im eventually going c2, but i have this tune now and have other things 2 spend 300 bucks on
> thanks in advance!


What charger are you running? Stock cams and injectors I presume?



LowLife said:


> After reading aprox. 40 pages of this thread, new understanding has come. But, I still do have a question that has been brought to my attention and need advice from those with experience. My 98 VR, was purchased with a 9:1 (I believe) head spacer with APR bolts, some minor port and polish work done, and a 2.5" TT exhaust. The owner had plans on big boost I assume, but never got around to it. My current plan is to run a VF stage 2 kit on the car with the kits GIAC software, but concerned after others have stated that the car will not run well. Will the low compression setup I have really cause the kit to run that off? I am currently at 4700ft above sea level.


If your going to run the GIAC file, I would suggest you pull your head and put it back to stock 10.0:1 compression as that is what the file was originally designed for. Do you have stock cams?


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> What charger are you running? Stock cams and injectors I presume?
> 
> 
> 
> If your going to run the GIAC file, I would suggest you pull your head and put it back to stock 10.0:1 compression as that is what the file was originally designed for. Do you have stock cams?


i am running NA right now. im trying 2 figure stuff out before i get it all on. i have 30lb injectors stock cams. its a V2


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

So its an old ATP N/A tune? Hmmm, I know their old stage 1 boost file used the MAF post charger, but you can run ~8-10psi. The nice part about that old file is that the maf is not on the ground going to be soaked in water when it rains. 

If your going to go with an OBD2 C2 file I would suggest you wait and just do that and run 10-12psi with 36# injectors as well as you can toss some cams in. Or pick up a MS setup like what Jamie has and have it tuned so it runs 100%.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

no im running na right now. i have a #30 tune from atp and matching injectors ready to go on with the charger with a 6psi pulley as of now...


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

Rheinland Technik said:


>


Looking good Rheinland :thumbup:


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

euroguy666 said:


> no im running na right now. i have a #30 tune from atp and matching injectors ready to go on with the charger with a 6psi pulley as of now...


Ok, well should be able to do 8psi(might see a high of 10) by using a 3.12 pulley. You will run your MAF post charger but pre-throttle body and a BOV with the supplied injectors. Once you get it together get it on a dyno and log the air fuels to make sure everything is in check. Should run right around 12.0 when WOT.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

so your saying the maf goes inbetween the charger and the TB? what if i run it where every1 else runs it?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

The early software was programed to run that way. If you run it pre-charger like everyone running the GIAC and C2 files then it will most likely run pretty wacky. The GIAC and C2 tunes were designed to run the MAF pre-charger. Early VF kits (Z-Engineering) also ran the MAF post charger.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> The early software was programed to run that way. If you run it pre-charger like everyone running the GIAC and C2 files then it will most likely run pretty wacky. The GIAC and C2 tunes were designed to run the MAF pre-charger. Early VF kits (Z-Engineering) also ran the MAF post charger.


alrite, i guess ill try post charger maf... its less piping anyway haha i woulda sworn on a V2 and a 3.12'' pulley it was 6psi


----------



## dankvdubber6407 (Jul 10, 2003)

have been reading as much as this thread as i can.. got a couple questions. i have a 2004 vw r32 stage one vf kit. but wanna get away from the vf stuff. and kinda wanna make my own "stage two" im currently running a watermeth system, where can i get a 10-12 psi pulley for my car and where can i get a idler/tensioner to reduce belt slip. i have fueling and tune covered, basically just trying to get a little more boost out of the v9, and i am planning on rebuilding the charger with upgraded bearings so it can be reliable with 10-12 psi. any help would be awesome!! oh and was wondering what kind of front mounts people are using on the r32's (other than vf stage 2's setup)


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

euroguy666 said:


> alrite, i guess ill try post charger maf... its less piping anyway haha i woulda sworn on a V2 and a 3.12'' pulley it was 6psi



Belt slip will have lot to do with the theoretical and actual boost. For example on a V9 a 2.5" pulley will get about 11psi or so, but cogged it runs 12.3psi. V1's and V2's running the 3.12 tend to run right around 8psi @ 7000rpms.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

My wheels FS!


Help me out. I want AWD like a bad habbit!


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

dankvdubber6407 said:


> have been reading as much as this thread as i can.. got a couple questions. i have a 2004 vw r32 stage one vf kit. but wanna get away from the vf stuff. and kinda wanna make my own "stage two" im currently running a watermeth system, where can i get a 10-12 psi pulley for my car and where can i get a idler/tensioner to reduce belt slip. i have fueling and tune covered, basically just trying to get a little more boost out of the v9, and i am planning on rebuilding the charger with upgraded bearings so it can be reliable with 10-12 psi. any help would be awesome!! oh and was wondering what kind of front mounts people are using on the r32's (other than vf stage 2's setup)


the V9 will never be safe @ 10-12 psi on the 3.2 i hit 6-7 psi with a 2.62 pulley


----------



## LowLife (Jun 30, 2005)

> If your going to run the GIAC file, I would suggest you pull your head and put it back to stock 10.0:1 compression as that is what the file was originally designed for. Do you have stock cams?


Thanks for the input. Yeah it has stock cams in it. What would the swap involve back to stock compression? Prob just put a mk4 headgasket in it instead. What are your thoughts about possibly keeping the low compression, adding cams, and a c2 file?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

LowLife said:


> Thanks for the input. Yeah it has stock cams in it. What would the swap involve back to stock compression? Prob just put a mk4 headgasket in it instead. What are your thoughts about possibly keeping the low compression, adding cams, and a c2 file?



If you keep the low compression you could bump up the boost, throw some cams in and the c2 file.

Stay away from the MK4 HG on OBDI and MK3's as it causes detonation issues.


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

ok my friends...i read whole topic but its hard to remember everything...

ill already know what to do with my trans...

now...i want more power...

subject:

2.8 vr6
stage 2 v9 (310cc injectors,4 bar regulator,2.75 pulley,vf software - now boost about 8psi)
stock cams
stock fuel pump
stock plugs
obd1
stock compression

car was fun to drive but...run very rich...on high rpms tend to interrupt...

what can i do to get more power and reliability from that?

go obd2 and custom software??
what cams?
better fuel pump?
what plugs?
what compression?how thick should be the metal gasket?

i want to get close to 300hp on engine...


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Praks said:


> ok my friends...i read whole topic but its hard to remember everything...
> 
> ill already know what to do with my trans...
> 
> ...


Change your software and get matching injectors, get a 10psi pulley, cams, and you will be close to 300 crank horse power. 

As for plugs go I use NGK BKR7E gaped to .026"


----------



## 1LIFEtoDuB (Feb 4, 2008)

my set up not started yet 
V1 2.50 pulley
#30 injectors
#30 c2 chip
4 inch maf
264 kent cams
full head job by (Evolutions Motorsports)E-Man
hd springs and so on
fully rebuilt block by (Ron)
arp bolts
9:1 head spacer
r32 oil pump & custom pan from (Fastmaxxcooper)
3.0 bar
NGK BKR7E
I NEED A CHARGE PIPE
old school AMS bracket setup
fully rebuilt tranny
obx headers no cat obx test pipe

1 question to do a sri with a intercooler or not to do it? see any power increase?
Whats up Keith & Keydub almost thereopcorn:


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

1LIFEtoDuB said:


> #30 injectors
> #30 c2 chip
> 4 inch maf


30# tune works with the stock MAF housing, not the 4", which is for 36# and 42#.

With an SRI, you will likely loose torque, but gain horsepower. The shorter intake path between the SRI and the intercooler will result in lower pressure drop through the intercooler, so you will see a bit more psi than with the stock intake manifold.

also, what you have on there right now as a charge pipe is fine. Don't go wasting your money on a new one, unless you do an SRI. You won't notice any difference, so why bother? Just change the silicone color to match your bay.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

1LIFEtoDuB said:


> my set up not started yet
> V1 2.50 pulley
> #30 injectors
> #30 c2 chip
> ...


is that the maf i see right before the TB? have you ran that software like that before? im just trying to gather al the info i can about this kid of set up. "blow by" i guess its called?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

that is not the MAF. it looks like a plastic coupler. AMS kits did run the MAF after the charger, but no other kit has.

and blow by is a term that refers to oil blowing through the piston rings inside the cylinder, i.e. when you have bad rings and need a rebuild.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blow-by#Air_ventilation


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

Are you guys running dv or bov? My dv has a hole from where it's been rubbing the bumper support and I'm wondering if I should buy another dv or try a bov.


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

I'm also looking for a vf stage 3 for a mk4 12v.i have stage 2 but want more power.If you or somebody you know is selling please let me know asap.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

flybye1 said:


> Are you guys running dv or bov? My dv has a hole from where it's been rubbing the bumper support and I'm wondering if I should buy another dv or try a bov.


 get a new valve. you have to run it DV to get the car to run correctly. I suggest something stronger than a forge 007. I run their evo valve and use the stiffest spring for it. 

When I was running the V9 I used the evo forge dv and it made a huge difference over the other dv I had.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

flybye1 said:


> I'm also looking for a vf stage 3 for a mk4 12v.i have stage 2 but want more power.If you or somebody you know is selling please let me know asap.


 my STGIV (the only one made) is for sale. 

PM me for info


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

.LSinLV. said:


> my STGIV (the only one made) is for sale.
> 
> PM me for info


 pms sent and emails as well!


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

littlenr said:


> pms sent and emails as well!


 :thumbup: Thanks Nate


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

.losinv.-pm sent 

How do you guys feel about the vf race valve? Iv never tried anyothers. Is the one you mentioned built differently? Will the valve work at only 8 lbs.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

flybye1 said:


> .losinv.-pm sent
> 
> How do you guys feel about the *vf race valve*? Iv never tried anyothers. Is the one you mentioned built differently? Will the valve work at only 8 lbs.


 ?? If you mean the VF DV made out of alloy, it's a Forge 007 with their name on it. you can swap out springs for more boost. :thumbup:


----------



## 976-RADD (May 29, 2003)

My idler pulley gave out, breaking the belt in the process. It's a Vortech pulley; #4FK016-021. After reading-up on them, I'm seeing that people are saying that they're not very tough, more specifically, the bearings fail easily. Any input before I buy another pulley?


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

976-RADD said:


> My idler pulley gave out, breaking the belt in the process. It's a Vortech pulley; #4FK016-021. After reading-up on them, I'm seeing that people are saying that they're not very tough, more specifically, the bearings fail easily. Any input before I buy another pulley?


 they are fine as long as you have the bearing loaded properly....make sure the belt runs across the middle/centered on the roller face, or you overload one side of the tension, causing early failure. if you load it unevenly, it will fail quickly.


----------



## 976-RADD (May 29, 2003)

.LSinLV. said:


> they are fine as long as you have the bearing loaded properly....make sure the belt runs across the middle/centered on the roller face, or you overload one side of the tension, causing early failure. if you load it unevenly, it will fail quickly.


 Thanks. I guess it used to be smooth, but now there's tiny grooves- Deeper on one side. I guess the tension was off center.


----------



## flybye1 (Apr 24, 2009)

Did vf make any part of there kit lol.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

flybye1 said:


> Did vf make any part of there kit lol.


 
pretty much just the mounts. the SW was with GIAC...so they don't get full credit there either....


----------



## 976-RADD (May 29, 2003)

Anybody know what belt I need for a VR with a V1, running 8psi, with AC delete and PS delete? PO says that he thinks it takes a 44". I measured what's left of the belt to get a rough idea, and I got 50".


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Should be 57" when using the V1/V2 [AMS/JRC/C2/Fourseason/Eurotech] kits. Not sure on the VF when running the V9 charger.


----------



## KeyDub (Jul 11, 2004)

1LIFEtoDuB said:


> my set up not started yet
> V1 2.50 pulley
> #30 injectors
> #30 c2 chip
> ...


 Looking Good Geo :thumbup:


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

I've got a few things for sale.

This started life as an off-the-shelf FK 2.5" SS cat-back exhaust system. I modified it by deleting the suitcase muffler, and welding in straight pipe in its place. It's basically a straight shot back from the cat. It will require some tweaking to get it installed correctly, but any muffler shop should be able to do it without problem. I'm including my stock OBD1 Catalytic converter, as well as a Magnaflow high performance 3" cat that has 2 o2 ports (for obd1 or obd2). *$250.00*




















Bosal Ceramic-Coated 2.25" Headers. Made for obd1 cars, but comes with a cap, that cuts off the EGR port for obd2. So, it can be used for either. These are the coveted VR6 headers. Discontinued and hard to find. There are some spots of light rust, but they're in overall great condition. *$250.00*



















*Buy both together for the low, low price of $400!*


Custom made cold air intake. I had this intake made by Secret Services for my supercharger setup. The big value item of this intake is the air bath system that mounts to the front of the car. It collects all that lovely cold air rushing at your car and forces it right into the engine. No hot engine air run-off here! Comes with everything pictured.*$300.00*
























































and VF Engineering A/C Delete pulley. It's basically brand new. *$125.00*




















All prices are without shipping.

PM, post, email, call/text - (917) 686-4439

thanks
-Jamie


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

Hey folks, have an issue that I'm not totally sure of here. Not too long ago was getting MAF and front O2 sensor codes. Replaced the MAF, stopped getting that code, replaced the front O2 sensor and all went well for a bit. Now and again would get the rough run from the MAF being so close to the blower and filter on the MAF so I extended the intake and such. Some water got on the filter and onto the MAF I'm guessing and now I've been getting P1151 on my generic OBDII tool (don't have a VAG/VAD but I borrow a friend's VAD, hoping to get my hands on it this upcoming weekend) which I think is the MAF code. 

Anyhow, I also realized I had a small boost leak where the diverter valve goes into the boost/charge pipe as the bung there had crushed under the hose clamp. So I cut it off, plastic welded the pipe closed and threaded in a metal bung and moved the diverter valve to there, the car runs a lot smoother now save for sometimes in low RPMs it gets some hesitation and the MIL/EPC light come on now and then and then the P1151 comes up. While it's cold it's sometimes more prone to that and stalling once in a while, though when warm, runs pretty darn good. 

So is the MAF toast from the introduction of the water? Anything else? I also noticed when I checked on the new O2 sensor that it was pretty black, is that indicative of a problem in the internals? 

It's a 12v VR with stage 2 VF kit, MSD ignition, 262 cams, lightweight lifters, supertech springs, SRI, stage 2 dual nozzle WMI, the GIAC chip that came with the kit as I haven't been able to afford anything else as of yet. 2.5" exhaust with the high flow magnaflow cat. 

thanks for any help folks can provide.


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

thinking of selling my kit...

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...r-MkIV-2.8-24v-VR6-12k-miles-better-than-new.


----------



## 976-RADD (May 29, 2003)

I've searched, but need a definative answer. 

What length belt for a 12v VR, V1, 8psi, no a/c, single idler pulley setup?


----------



## 6vdubbin9 (Apr 18, 2004)

976-RADD said:


> I've searched, but need a definative answer.
> 
> What length belt for a 12v VR, V1, 8psi, no a/c, single idler pulley setup?


Take a string. Run it through the way the belt runs. Cut it. Measure it. That is gunna give you your best answer.


----------



## 976-RADD (May 29, 2003)

6vdubbin9 said:


> Take a string. Run it through the way the belt runs. Cut it. Measure it. That is gunna give you your best answer.


Gotcha. I just thought, this being a common setup I could get a quick answer.


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

"obdONE" why the parts sale off? u dumping your super charger system?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

carsluTT said:


> "obdONE" why the parts sale off? u dumping your super charger system?


i was keeping it a secret, but I guess it doesn't matter...



















The headers and intake are spoken for. I still have the exhaust and the Idler pulley. If anyone is interested, let me know.

I can also get my hands on my custom 2.5" pulley with the grooves cut in it, if anyone is interested.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Off to the dark side...hope you come back soon Jamie :laugh:


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

obdONE said:


> i was keeping it a secret, but I guess it doesn't matter...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


nice.......... at some point i hope to have time to send u my pulley to get done still..... now ur going turbo will u be against any more pulley work?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

DeckManDubs said:


> Off to the dark side...hope you come back soon Jamie :laugh:


haha, right? I know, I know... It had to be done though. Car was great after the tune got sorted out, but a buddy asked me if he could buy the blower, so it was already gone. That was the big part. plus this other stuff I'm selling, swapping over to a turbo is going to put $100 in my pocket when I'm done. Can't really knock that. And 100 more whp? I'll take it 




carsluTT said:


> nice.......... at some point i hope to have time to send u my pulley to get done still..... now ur going turbo will u be against any more pulley work?


not at all! I can still hook that up easily.


----------



## LowLife (Jun 30, 2005)

Seeing as you guys are experts in here I need a little bit of advice. I bought a VF Engineering kit from a friend and it was shipped to me via USPS. To make the story short a claim has been filed because the supercharger was not in the package upon arrival. They say it fell out most likely, but I believe it was ripped off. Anyways, think I am going to cut my losses and sell the remaining parts. What do you think I could get out of the kit? Minus the v9 charger of course. The kit was only about a year old with less than 10k on it. Just trying to figure out what the best option is at this point.


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

USPS:thumbdown: I never ship anything of value with them anymore


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

LowLife said:


> What do you think I could get out of the kit? Minus the v9 charger of course.


hardly anything, sorry man. Make a claim with usps for the full price you paid for the kit. the charger is the only thing of any REAL value in the kit.

you could maybe part it out for a couple hundred bucks.

USPS will require you to give them the remaining parts if you claim it as a total loss. That's what I would do. They will pay out, just be patient.


----------



## LowLife (Jun 30, 2005)

obdone, looks like you've had some expierence with this as well. Yesterday I made a claim for the full amount. They took pictures, and said most likely a "specialist" will come inspect the box later. I was told it will take up to 3 months to see a reimbursement for the loss. Got to love government run businesses. Well wish me luck, and let this be a warning to everyone shipping parts to steer clear of USPS when shipping high value items.


----------



## Radioactiveman (May 13, 2010)

I had just aquired a supercharger, and I want to upgrade the pulley. The pulley that is currently on there is a 3.25" 7 rib pulley. Vortech sells a 3.12" 7 rib pulley, but I would really like to have around a 3". I was thinking about using the 8 rib 3", but I am not sure if it will fit inbetween the supercharger and the head. What do you guys think? Is there anywhere that I can buy a 7 rib 3"? I have the v-9 charger and want to be in the 8-9psi range would 3" get me there? Some help would be much appreciated.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

Radioactiveman said:


> I had just aquired a supercharger, and I want to upgrade the pulley. The pulley that is currently on there is a 3.25" 7 rib pulley. Vortech sells a 3.12" 7 rib pulley, but I would really like to have around a 3". I was thinking about using the 8 rib 3", but I am not sure if it will fit inbetween the supercharger and the head. What do you guys think? Is there anywhere that I can buy a 7 rib 3"? I have the v-9 charger and want to be in the 8-9psi range would 3" get me there? Some help would be much appreciated.


:thumbup:

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/support.php?support_section=Impeller Speed Calculator


----------



## Radioactiveman (May 13, 2010)

Thats cool but they have nothing for the v9. I really just need to find someone that sells the 7rib pulleys. Or if anyone knows if you could use the 8 rib.


----------



## 6vdubbin9 (Apr 18, 2004)

Radioactiveman said:


> Thats cool but they have nothing for the v9. I really just need to find someone that sells the 7rib pulleys. Or if anyone knows if you could use the 8 rib.


i have a 2.75" pulley. i think 7 rib. i'll go check it if you are interested. it's good for 8psi on the v9.


----------



## Radioactiveman (May 13, 2010)

Yeah, I'm interested. How much?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

It is possible to run an 8 rib pulley, it will fit. However, if you are running an idler, it will not fit. 

The 2.7" 7 rib pulley is the VF stage 2 pulley and it gives 8psi on the v9. 

I haven't yet seen a 2.75" pulley that is 7 rib. Most I've seen are 8 rib. Eiter way it will work.


----------



## 6vdubbin9 (Apr 18, 2004)

obdONE said:


> It is possible to run an 8 rib pulley, it will fit. However, if you are running an idler, it will not fit.
> 
> The 2.7" 7 rib pulley is the VF stage 2 pulley and it gives 8psi on the v9.
> 
> I haven't yet seen a 2.75" pulley that is 7 rib. Most I've seen are 8 rib. Eiter way it will work.


not sure if it's 2.7 or 2.75. i just know it was the stg 2 8 psi pulley for the v9 kit. so prob the 2.7 7rib is what i have.


----------



## lunik (Feb 19, 2008)

*VF problem*

vr6'93 obd1 distributor, euro spec. 
4kg FW, ported TB, head and manifold. 
OEM cams. 
Stage 2 vf kit, with V3 SC. 

Hi: 

just finished the install with the following problems: 

MINOR Problems (but problems anyway..) 

The V3 SC has its own lubrication, apparently. It comes with a brass bolt on the top, that has to be replaced upon installation with a ventilated one. Done that, but it leaks through the hole.. What is wrong? 

Where is the dipstick?? 

I still need how to connect the MAF clamp on a 5wire setup. Tried to contact VF, but I had no answer.. 

MAJOR Problems.. 

The engine trips after 5 minutes idling. Just makes a "click" and stops. Not possible to start again, with contact on it sounds tic tic tic, from the injectors. If you disconnect and reconnect the battery. it starts again. Running GIAC software. 

The 3rd time i tried to start, it made a HORRIBLE noise, and the engine stopped spinning. It moves backwards, but it blocks when cranking.. 

Any ideas? 

Your help is MUCH appreciated, I'm really disappointed, feels like I've thrown away the money.. 

Thanks in advance..


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

Who has the part numbers for bearings and seals for a V1 rebuild or know of a good kit? I found this on 928 Motorsport's website, has anyone used it? 

http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/vortech_rebuild_kit.php


----------



## Radioactiveman (May 13, 2010)

Since finding some pulleys for the supercharger set ups is nearly impossible. I had talked to a local machine shop that said they could make me 5+ pulleys for about 100 a piece or less if I were to want more. So if any body is interested in a 2.5" 7-rib supercharger pulley PM me. I also posted in the classified section. I think that I will gauge interest for a month, and if there is enough I will have them made. If there isn't then I guess I'm in the same place that I'm in now.


----------



## 6vdubbin9 (Apr 18, 2004)

i know this has been beatin to death on here. just spent an hour in the archives. but still curious to see who's got what in here. 

What is everyone running for plugs & gaps? List setup and boost too :beer: 

Right now i'm leaning towards ngk bkr6e's which are one step colder than stock rated ngks and very popular with f.i vr6s. 

Those and the bosch f6dtc..a stock rated 3 prong plug for the 16v. 2 steps colder for vr's(seems unnecessary) but proven to work well on vr's with higher boost. 

And then starting at a gap of .028? .026? and seeing how it goes. 

I know the ngk bkr5e's are ok for right now. but it's also been cold out since i started with the charger. and they've already had a full season on them. 
once the season comes back around when i really actually drive the car more it'll be back in the 80's and 90's here. So i'm thinking one step colder would be a good idea.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

BKR7E's running .028" gap, replace every 3000 miles for best results.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

DeckManDubs said:


> BKR7E's running .028" gap, replace every 3000 miles for best results.


 2nd that!


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

KubotaPowered said:


> Who has the part numbers for bearings and seals for a V1 rebuild or know of a good kit? I found this on 928 Motorsport's website, has anyone used it?
> 
> http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/vortech_rebuild_kit.php


 :thumbup: for Carl...great guy and his impellers are AWESOME! 

also check out todd @ www.superchargerrebuilds.com another great guy selling vortech pats and such...he has an Ebay store as well.


----------



## lunik (Feb 19, 2008)

lunik said:


> vr6'93 obd1 distributor, euro spec.
> 4kg FW, ported TB, head and manifold.
> OEM cams.
> Stage 2 vf kit, with V3 SC.
> ...


 
Vent plug.. still don't know which one of the 3 brass bolts is due to replace for the vented one.. 

MAF Clamp: connected to the solid black (5 wires) It starts, don't know much more yet.. 

The tic tic noise is the injectors opening and closing, flooding the cylinders so badly that they ended up full of gas. (fluids are uncompressible, the reason the engine would'n crank) 

The engine starts, and about 3 minutes later it starts backfiring, untill finally stops. Not possible to restart. I think that as soon as the ecu has lambda readings goes crazy, but i still have to log on and confirm this.. 

Still had no answer from VF..


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

VF did not send you a chart for the MAF clamp?


----------



## lunik (Feb 19, 2008)

they sent through email an installation guide, but it only showed how to connect a 4 wire maf. My maf has 5 wires, so I don't know if i should connect the same..


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

PM sent


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

.LSinLV. said:


> :thumbup: for Carl...great guy and his impellers are AWESOME!
> 
> also check out todd @ www.superchargerrebuilds.com another great guy selling vortech pats and such...he has an Ebay store as well.


 Larry, thank you for the input! :thumbup:


----------



## lunik (Feb 19, 2008)

Logged on vagcom, the lambda reading is not the issue. It stayed idling quite stable for about 10 minutes. Then it stopped. Won't start again until it's cold.. 

Looks the chip is not good. Did anyone had the same issue with VF stage 2? 

Still no reply from VF..................................


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

lunik said:


> Logged on vagcom, the lambda reading is not the issue. It stayed idling quite stable for about 10 minutes. Then it stopped. Won't start again until it's cold..
> 
> Looks the chip is not good. Did anyone had the same issue with VF stage 2?
> 
> Still no reply from VF..................................


 Have you taken the ecu out and opened it up? See if the chip is all the way down in the socket.


----------



## lunik (Feb 19, 2008)

I'll check that tomorrow morning. 

thanks..


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

Headers and intake are sold. Exhaust and idler pulley remain. If anyone is interested, shoot me an offer.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

already posted this in a thread but i thought i was put it in here also 

just went and got the car dynoed this morning. was surprised at what it got. i know dynojets read a little higher than mustangs but im still happy with it. ive heard that a lot of people have been running lean on giac software, but i def didnt. i had my wideband and the tail pipe sniffer say i was fine.
mods in the sig. (also, the owner of the shop says his o2 sensor reads about .5 leaner)

edit: ohh and those couple divit things at about 6000 and 6300rpm, is that timing getting pulled or what? thanks


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

and does this mean im #4 on the "300 club" list at the beginning of the thread?  :wave::wave:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Congrats on breaking 300 :beer:


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

DeckManDubs said:


> Congrats on breaking 300 :beer:


thanks, you have any idea as to why its break up a little up top? it doesnt FEEL like spark is getting blown out, or could it be a little belt slip


----------



## 976-RADD (May 29, 2003)

In case any future searchers are wondering; In order to run a s/c'd 12 valve, obd1 VR with an 8psi pulley, AMS bracket, single idler, ac delete, and ps delete, you need a 52 7/8" belt.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

What bracket setup?


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Sooo I have a high milage motor in my car. Wondering how much boost and how many miles you guys have on youre motors. Stock internals? Ect. Ect. Seeing how much I can getoutta this thing

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

euroguy666 said:


> Sooo I have a high milage motor in my car. Wondering how much boost and how many miles you guys have on youre motors. Stock internals? Ect. Ect. Seeing how much I can getoutta this thing
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


Do a compression test. See where you are to start. The bottom end of my motor has 160k miles on the rings, pistons, and bearings. The head of the motor was freshened up and I run a 9.0:1 head spacer. The motor sees 12psi all the time with out a issue.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

157k miles on mine with a mk4 headgasket on 12.6 psi..... still no problems:beer:


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

I got 178k. Thing was bone stock when I started ripping it apart a few weeks ago. Compression test will come shortly. 

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## lunik (Feb 19, 2008)

Done some work on the car..

cleaned the ECU board with contact cleaner, put the chip back in fully into the socket. It managed to idle for 39 minutes, no problem. Next job, road test..

Finally I had an answer from VF, but they don't know how to wire my 5wire MAF. they said it has to be spliced onto a wire which shoud be 1volt at idle, 5 at full revs. The most similar one is RED (not black), which reads 2.4 volts at idle, about 5 at high revs.. Could it be that one?

Idle is crap, the engine stlls after revving.. But that's gonna be the next step..


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

lunik said:


> Done some work on the car..
> 
> cleaned the ECU board with contact cleaner, put the chip back in fully into the socket. It managed to idle for 39 minutes, no problem. Next job, road test..
> 
> ...


Now you have to adapt the throttle body. You've had the ecu disconnected from power. mk3 message block 098. Try that and your idle will be normal.


----------



## lunik (Feb 19, 2008)

littlenr said:


> Now you have to adapt the throttle body. You've had the ecu disconnected from power. mk3 message block 098. Try that and your idle will be normal.


93 vr euro spec, OBD1 dist type, TB driven by cable. I thought no adaptation possible. Is that right?

Thanks..


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

lunik said:


> 93 vr euro spec, OBD1 dist type, TB driven by cable. I thought no adaptation possible. Is that right?
> 
> Thanks..


there is a position sensor still.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

littlenr said:


> there is a position sensor still.


No adaptation is possible with an obd1 throttle body. 

You could try pulling your throttle cable tighter to allow some air to bypass the tb butterfly, though. That might give it just enough extra air that it won't stall on you. It's worth a shot.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

obdONE said:


> No adaptation is possible with an obd1 throttle body.
> 
> You could try pulling your throttle cable tighter to allow some air to bypass the tb butterfly, though. That might give it just enough extra air that it won't stall on you. It's worth a shot.


:wave:


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

:wave:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Do you still have your ISV hooked up, those tend to cause the most of the throttle issues with the OBDI setups. You can unplug it and see if it still stumbles/hangs/stalls


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

found my customized 8psi pulley today. had been looking for it for a while. this is a 2.75" 8-rib Vortech pulley. makes 8psi on the v9 and a lot more on the v1. I also had it machined down so that there would be absolutely no clearance issues, even if you are running an idler.

*$160 shipped in the U.S.*





































:thumbup:


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Got a atp 30# tune and a charge pipe for sale.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Oh and im going shaved bay. Wanna get rid of my stock exhaust mani and all that. Was gonna to with a set of headers. Most all motor guys laugh at that because you normally lose power with aftermarket headers. Is this the same deal with supercharger set ups? Im doug it anyway because stock headers are ugly and wont.look good with a shaved bay but would like to know what everyone else does. Thanks.


----------



## FQP VR6 (Nov 7, 2002)

*these were sold to me as mkiv stg.2 injectors but i believe it is not correct*

Anyone know if these are VF injectors and their supposed flow rate? Image shows injector fitted to an mkiv 12v VR6 lower intake manifold via the use of an adapter sleeve made of some kind of alloy. If the sleeve is removed injector only has one O ring vs stock ones that have two O rings of different diameter and do not require any sleeve. 

Also, i have been trying to search for an image of the vf mkiV stg.2 injector all over the web but can not find anything. I was going to buy the vf stg 2 tune, but when i described them the injectors they said to send them a picture before they agreed to sell me the giac tune. I am still wating for a reply and they are taking a while to get back but they did not seem to recall of any additional sleeves being present on their injectors. Maybe these were an early version who knows. I need to find out as if they are not the right injectors i will promptly return them to the seller. Thank you for any help. There is a great deal of knowledge and experience on this forum.


----------



## lunik (Feb 19, 2008)

DeckManDubs said:


> Do you still have your ISV hooked up, those tend to cause the most of the throttle issues with the OBDI setups. You can unplug it and see if it still stumbles/hangs/stalls


Sorry, I was away for ome time. 

The ISV is still there, disconnected it and it is better (don't want to say fine.. yet). I was considering to install a switch on the dash to have it connected when cold, disconnected when hot. But I would like to try something else before I go that way.. About tensioning the wire, what about opening the butterfly a bit more with the adjust bolt? It would just do the same, all the time..

Thank for your help guys.. Sorry if sometimes I cannot read your answers in some time..


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

^ You can easily do the adjuster screw/bolt on the TB instead. I think that would be more reliable/consistant idle than a tensioned cable. 

I also have the ISV plumbed, but harness disconnected. I have been doing this for YEARS & it works fine & solves quite afew running issues. 
On cold starts you just have to hold the idle @ say 12-1500rpm for about 2-=0-30sec. & the car will adapt. Once the temp is up, your pretty much good all day.

Another previously used air bypass trick if choosing to completely delete the ISV is to run a vacuum line & check valve in its place. this will allow vacuum to idle, but holds the boost.
ISV's are not air tight, they will leak air & boost. :thumbup:


----------



## lunik (Feb 19, 2008)

Thanks.. I still haven't the time to work a bit more on the car, but I collect all the information to be used hopefully soon. Thanks for the info, sounds good!


----------



## bmxdarcy (Mar 7, 2006)

is anyone running something outside the OE throttle body? something larger perhaps?


----------



## lunik (Feb 19, 2008)

bmxdarcy said:


> is anyone running something outside the OE throttle body? something larger perhaps?


I run the OBD1 OE TB, flowed. You can do it by filling the outside of the TB with epoxi filler. I used t do that on 2stroke bikes when porting. I used it without the SC setup, but I'll try it soon. It feels some more crisp at mid and high revs. There are bigger TB's, which could work well. But still have to test under the new engine condition..


----------



## G_Lader_91 (Dec 28, 2006)

Are there any 24v guys here? I know Im venturing towards some criticism...Im running stg1 vf and cannot stand the software. I am seeking after-market software for running higher boost. I am also interested in verdict m/s cogged kits.

I tried e-mailing some software companies with no replies... Can you guys point me in the right direction?


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

Talk to APTuning, they can sell you a United Motorsports tune and fueling kit. I'm going to go with that for my stage 2 setup.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

bmxdarcy said:


> is anyone running something outside the OE throttle body? something larger perhaps?


I'm running a R32 tb on my 12v mk4. Its a good bit larger and plugged straight up.:thumbup:


----------



## G_Lader_91 (Dec 28, 2006)

vrDUCKin, 

Thanks man. I sent them an e-mail. Cannot wait to hear back from them. What are you planning on running for boost? I am looking to go higher than 8 if possible. Say 10-12. I know it can be done. I have seen a setup for myself on a 12v with a v9 running 12psi daily. I guess I am going to venture there for myself and find out. At least it will put me slightly over 300 crank.


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

I'm planning for around 10psi as well. I have the pulley sitting here, but I can't run it until I get a non-****ty tune and fueling kit.


----------



## 6vdubbin9 (Apr 18, 2004)

coatofarms said:


> vrDUCKin,
> 
> Thanks man. I sent them an e-mail. Cannot wait to hear back from them. What are you planning on running for boost? I am looking to go higher than 8 if possible. Say 10-12. I know it can be done. I have seen a setup for myself on a 12v with a v9 running 12psi daily. I guess I am going to venture there for myself and find out. At least it will put me slightly over 300 crank.


Where is this v9 running 12psi. I've heard it debated over it being safe to or not. I would think you would be over spinning the impeller at that point?something as small as a ?2.25"? would be needed for 12psi. I cringe at the amount of belt slip that would cause. cogged. only way to go to get that much out of a v9 without headaches. I'm already looking for a v1. but i am very interested to see the v9 setup getting 12psi


----------



## lunik (Feb 19, 2008)

Road tested today.. I expected something more rude, but it feels exactly the same silky engine.... until you open the throttle and let it rev.. I am unexpectedly pleased.. 

Stumbling-stalling idle issues.. I have bloted the adjustement bolt so the throttle is more open now.. It makes no difference in idle, but it did not gve any prlblem in my short drive.. Next exhaustive testing soon..


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

I have played with the idea of selling my Mk3 bracket set that I have and run a turbo on my Cabrio. If anyone is interested in the extremely nice bracket set that I have, feel free to send me a message. Right now it isjust a thought, but it would allow me to purchase a few turbo pieces for the motor.


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

I'm selling a brand new Vortech 2.62" pulley. Let me know if anyone is interested.

I'm actually going to be selling my entire kit in the near future, it is still on the car right now. 24v Stage 2 with all the goodies, 12k miles, and a few upgrades that I added.


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

*Impeller question*



DeckManDubs said:


> T-trim impeller mod 10-15% flow increase.


 Has this been verified? How did you accomplish this modification? 

I see that there are performance impellers made by a company for the V1/V2 but none that I can find for the V9. Anyone ever looked into this option? They claim 15% increase in airflow. 

http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/vortech_impeller.php 

I have a brand new V9 on its way and was just doing some research on the topic. 

Thanks


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

92jetta9a said:


> Has this been verified? How did you accomplish this modification?
> 
> I see that there are performance impellers made by a company for the V1/V2 but none that I can find for the V9. Anyone ever looked into this option? They claim 15% increase in airflow.
> 
> ...


 The impeller that Noah has pictured there is one from Todd @ Supercharger Rebuilds which he had made. Noah also has/had a 928 which he plans on running with his latest setup. 

The 928 stuff has been verified, not sure on the other. 

As far as aftermarket V9 impellers go, we've never heard or seen of such a beast.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

MeCarTay said:


> The impeller that Noah has pictured there is one from Todd @ Supercharger Rebuilds which he had made. Noah also has/had a 928 which he plans on running with his latest setup.
> 
> The 928 stuff has been verified, not sure on the other.
> 
> As far as aftermarket V9 impellers go, we've never heard or seen of such a beast.


 I ran Todd's impeller on my V2 and saw 15lbs on my set-up @ 70K rpms.....if I could get the bearings to last at those loads it would be great. it did flow much better at lower rpm's but I am running a V2, not a V9, and that alone gets me 20% more flow. 

the impeller from Todd is cast/machined, but not as nice as Carl's (928motorsports) which is CnC'd.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

.LSinLV. said:


> I ran Todd's impeller on my V2 and saw 15lbs on my set-up @ 70K rpms.....if I could get the bearings to last at those loads it would be great. w.


 Larry 

If your having problems with the load on the bearings check the case casting as it seems that they start to flex like 02a's. A solution would be to insert a metal sleeve/pocket that the bearing could ride in to prevent axial loading which seems to wipe out the bearings. 


Just an idea :biggrinsanta:


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

.LSinLV. said:


> I ran Todd's impeller on my V2 and saw 15lbs on my set-up @ 70K rpms.....if I could get the bearings to last at those loads it would be great. it did flow much better at lower rpm's but I am running a V2, not a V9, and that alone gets me 20% more flow.
> 
> the impeller from Todd is cast/machined, but not as nice as Carl's (928motorsports) which is CnC'd.


 If you saw 15lbs with the modified impeller, what were you seeing with the stock impeller? 

V2 > V9, I get it. Just trying to make the most of what I will have. 

Thanks.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

92jetta9a said:


> If you saw 15lbs with the modified impeller, what were you seeing with the stock impeller?
> 
> V2 > V9, I get it. Just trying to make the most of what I will have.
> 
> Thanks.


 12 lbs @ 55K rpms (impeller speed) 

max flow on a V9 is ~ 1050 cfm's std trim 
max flow on a V2 is ~ 1250 cfm's std trim


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> Larry
> 
> If your having problems with the load on the bearings check the case casting as it seems that they start to flex like 02a's. A solution would be to insert a metal sleeve/pocket that the bearing could ride in to prevent axial loading which seems to wipe out the bearings.
> 
> ...


 sounds like a great idea....I am just tired of the unit failing and costing me $1K each time.....I am looking ot move on to a turbo....unless you can design this metal sleeve....I'd like to see what you are talking about, as the bearings I've found are great and will work for V9's if this issue could be resolved....might be a business opportunity for you????


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

.LSinLV. said:


> sounds like a great idea....I am just tired of the unit failing and costing me $1K each time.....I am looking ot move on to a turbo....unless you can design this metal sleeve....I'd like to see what you are talking about, as the bearings I've found are great and will work for V9's if this issue could be resolved....might be a business opportunity for you????


 I'll give you a ring later as I will be @ work late tonight.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

.LSinLV. said:


> 12 lbs @ 55K rpms (impeller speed)
> 
> max flow on a V9 is ~ 1050 cfm's std trim
> max flow on a V2 is ~ 1250 cfm's std trim


 you may want to check your facts... 

straight from Vortech's website 
V2 
Max Flow: 
1050 CFM 


V9 F trim( most common) 
Max Flow: 
750 CFM


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

websaabn said:


> you may want to check your facts...
> 
> straight from Vortech's website
> V2
> ...


 you are right.....I was using info based on "T" trim, not stock. thanks for catching my error. :thumbup:


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

man, had a FAIL of epic greatness on the cabriolet....... dont forget to locktite the pulley bolt.... it will come out and then the pully can dig into the fuel rail... ask me how i know:banghead::laugh::laugh:I will get some pics of the trash pulley:facepalm: 

pick of the car for S&G


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

guys fast question...on spring i want to attack more power from my v9  

i'll go stand alone (vems) 
bigger injectors 
better fuel pump 

and now... 

go in non stock camshafts??if yes which one??or is it unnecessary? 

go in intercooler and short intake?? 

currently i have 2,75 pulley...if i'll go IC boost will be reduced?will i need to install smaller pulley?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

262's or 268's with the standalone. No need for a IC


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

DeckManDubs said:


> 262's or 268's with the standalone. No need for a IC


 why not?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Praks said:


> why not?


 Your never going to push enough air off of the V9 to need a IC.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> Your never going to push enough air off of the V9 to need a IC.


 true dat...VOLUME is where it's at!


----------



## mars2 (Sep 16, 2008)

"Your never going to push enough air off of the V9 to need a IC." isthat also true on a R32 with 2.62" pulley


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

DeckManDubs said:


> Your never going to push enough air off of the V9 to need a IC.


so what do you suggest?

go only standalone,cams,fuel pump,bigger injectors(now 310cc from stage 2)smaller pulley?or 2.75 is enough?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Praks said:


> so what do you suggest?
> 
> go only standalone,cams,fuel pump,bigger injectors(now 310cc from stage 2)smaller pulley?or 2.75 is enough?


do all of that but the intercooler. Cams, fuel pump, injectors, and standalone. I'd keep the 2.75 just to be safe with the v9 and tune the crap out of it. I ran 380cc injectors on my mk4 and it ran like a dream. Then I went big frame charger and now I'm on 630cc. 440cc injectors will be plenty for the v9.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

mars2 said:


> "Your never going to push enough air off of the V9 to need a IC." isthat also true on a R32 with 2.62" pulley


yes! a v9 is a v9. doesn't matter what car its on!


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

Praks said:


> so what do you suggest?


honestly, move up to a bigger charger, or go turbo. the V9 is maxed out @ 12psi on our cars....and that's spinning them at ~55K rpms with the VF kits...which is 15K rpms OVER the recommended max impeller speed. This is why V9's fail all the time in the VF STG II & III kits....the V9's are running way past what they were designed for.

V1 or V2 or Turbo.....there is no other way to get *reliable* high-output from the V9.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

*little issue still*

getting some nasty hesitation in the lower rpms. I've thrown a P0134 and P1166/1167 code a few times reading with my generic tool, friend is dropping off his VAD soon so I can see more specifics. I also have a couple of new parts for my fuel rail as there is a possibility it's drawing in some air, but any ideas if that could be MAF related too? And anyone have a 2.0/12v VR6 MAF sensor they want to offload for cheapish? 

thanks


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

.LSinLV. said:


> honestly, move up to a bigger charger, or go turbo. the V9 is maxed out @ 12psi on our cars....and that's spinning them at ~55K rpms with the VF kits...which is 15K rpms OVER the recommended max impeller speed. This is why V9's fail all the time in the VF STG II & III kits....the V9's are running way past what they were designed for.
> 
> V1 or V2 or Turbo.....there is no other way to get *reliable* high-output from the V9.


here in Europe its hard to find it sa i'll stick to v9 for now...

ok then i'll pass on IC and short intake...

thx guys :beer:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

littlenr said:


> yes! a v9 is a v9. doesn't matter what car its on!


:laugh:


Unless its an early unit...those are a little more unique.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> :laugh:
> 
> 
> Unless its an early unit...those are a little more unique.


I had one of those.....then Nik took it. :banghead:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

.LSinLV. said:


> I had one of those.....then Nik took it. :banghead:


bastid!!!

Yours and mine were the only ones I have ever seen/confirmed to be tougher.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

Mine is definitely not tougher as it had to be rebuilt once already by Vortech though I think it's oozing oil again... might have to rebuild it myself and just suck it up and buy the parts.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

DeckManDubs said:


> bastid!!!
> 
> Yours and mine were the only ones I have ever seen/confirmed to be tougher.


my v9 was spun at 12psi when I ran it. Never gave me a problem for 50k miles. Then I stepped to the V1 and never looked back.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

littlenr said:


> my v9 was spun at 12psi when I ran it. Never gave me a problem for 50k miles. Then I stepped to the V1 and never looked back.



So that makes 3 vs how many paper weights lol.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

mars2 said:


> "Your never going to push enough air off of the V9 to need a IC." isthat also true on a R32 with 2.62" pulley


this also depends on your tune, if you have a real agressive timing map with the 11.3:1 comp you might get detonation


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

haha x2 on that, but i have no v1


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

New SRI, & 12psi pully


















More to come.. Cogged, water/meth....


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

Dunkfan914 said:


> haha x2 on that, but i have no v1


I could save you some big $$ and a better solution to the cogged set-up....and you CAN have a V2.

PM me if you're interested. :thumbup:


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

If anyone is interested in a V1 [AMS] kit, I will be removing one from a 98 GLX soon for a buddy of mine as he will be putting it back to stock. The kit has ~35K or so on it. I drove it the other day to check out a suspension rattle that he had. He has the following parts which will be included:
Autometer boost/vac gauge
Autometer Air/fuel guage
C2 30# software [250 miles]
30 # injectors [5K miles]
V1 [~35K miles]
AMS brackets [~35K miles]
Oil pan
Oil lines [feed & return]
Charge tube
Clamps
Hardware
Air filter
Misc hose for PVC

It is a complete and running kit, making 9-10 psi. I will take a video of it before I remove the kit from the car if needed. All that is needed is a custom intake tube and MAF to run before the charger to make it perform the best.


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

Larry thanks for the offer but i think i am too going to joing the dark side after this run


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

Did C2 ever make a tune that had the MAF post charger? I recently bought an old mk2 that has passed through many hands from a friend of mine. He bought it from 1552 back in 2008. It has an AMS V1 kit on it, and according to the old 1552 for sale thread is running C2 software on OBD1 dizzy. The MAF is most definitely post charger, and the car runs/drives great. I'm in Iraq so I cant open the ECU to check or vagcom it. 

I was hoping to find the answer in here before asking, but I haven't come across in the 85 pages I've read yet.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Only the AMS and some early ATP tunes had the blow thru MAF setup. :beer:


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

I was thinking the same thing. Seems strange that 1552 would put it out as having C2 software, unless they somehow got a custom tune which is doubtful. I'm going to have to do some digging when I get back and figure out exactly what it is running, though for now I'm happy with how it is.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

One of my old kits ran a blow through program [AMS and ATP software]. I got better results running stock software with a slightly larger than stock injector [24lb] than I did with the AMS and stock injectors. Every so often, I would get a MAF fault [was always told that the MAF was failing, but I called BS on that] and I would get a no start condition, which could be reset by unplugging the ECU and plugging it back up. That cost me a tow one day, but I quickly figured that out and went to stock software. I made 265 hp to the wheels running the AMS [average hp for the kit] and made around 295 running the 24# injectors and stock software with no idle issues. The last kit that I did made 308 hp running a V5.


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

Rheinland Technik said:


> That cost me a tow one day, but I quickly figured that out and went to stock software. I made 265 hp to the wheels running the AMS [average hp for the kit] and made around 295 running the 24# injectors and stock software with no idle issues. The last kit that I did made 308 hp running a V5.


Stock software at 295whp? I didn't think the ECU was smart enough to adapt to any changes like that. Wouldn't you be extremely rich at idle and lean at WOT? I don't see how a stock ECU with only 24lb injectors could support enough fueling for that much power/air flow.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Well, I know that it worked fine with no issues. I ran a 3-Bar FPR with a 4:1 FMU which reduced the idle air fuel ratio without being pig rich and increased the required fuel under boost and ran around a 12.1: - 12.9:1 air fuel ratio under full load with 10-11 psi of boost. I wish I had a copy of the dyno plot. This was back in 2001-2002 when I was in the GLX. The car was a total loss in Feb. 2003. I sold off the kit that was on it in November 2002 and the kit with the V5 was sold and installed around the same time. We ran an ABA with Motronic that made 260 hp before switching to standalone at Waterfest the first year that they had it at the Island Dragway in Jersey. The motor took a dump with the #3 injector failed and burnt a hole through the head between #3 and #4 cylinders, but that was pushing 20+ psi of boost. Since then it has all been standalone system.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

I have that atp tune for # 30 injectors. If anything happens to yours or you need a charge pipe for that setup lmk. I gave both for sale also if u go a few pages back I have some post people anwsered about the tune. Hope that adds some help


crazysccrmd said:


> I was thinking the same thing. Seems strange that 1552 would put it out as having C2 software, unless they somehow got a custom tune which is doubtful. I'm going to have to do some digging when I get back and figure out exactly what it is running, though for now I'm happy with how it is.


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

I probably mentioned it at some point much earlier in this thread, but for the 24v guys, I would be very interested in seeing the results of mating a 3.2l VR head to the 2.8 block, with the VF Stage 2 kit for the 2.8. I would do it myself, as I actually just acquired a 3.2 head, but I will be going back to N/A...

If you think about it, the R32 S/C kits (off the shelf from VF) make considerably more power (350 vs 305) on considerably less boost (6 vs 8). I suspect it is more due to the head flow than the small increase in displacement. The head swap has been proven in both turbo and N/A applications. It is well known that the 24v guys have yet to really do much of anything with their S/C kits, most of them are just stock VF Stg 1 or 2 running a V9, with very few even going to a better tune and a tiny bit more boost.

Food for thought if anyone is bored with their 24v...

Here's my new head, they can be found at a good price if you look hard enough. It will be sent out for portwork and receive different cams. My S/C kit is for sale, as is my new 2.62" pulley that I never used, and my boost guage.


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

euroguy666 said:


> I have that atp tune for # 30 injectors. If anything happens to yours or you need a charge pipe for that setup lmk. I gave both for sale also if u go a few pages back I have some post people anwsered about the tune. Hope that adds some help


i should be good to go, but i will keep it in mind. whatever setup it has it is running well and making decent power. trying to get my wife to send me a picture of the fuel injectors on it so i can hopefully figure that out while im still stuck overseas

*edit* got a better picture from my wife, looks like stock injectors under there so im going to assume its running on an ams or atp tune










and the actual car itself


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

Dr. E Brown said:


> It is well known that the 24v guys have yet to really do much of anything with their S/C kits, most of them are just stock VF Stg 1 or 2 running a V9, with very few even going to a better tune and a tiny bit more boost.


Ouch.... i have a custom 550 tune for W/M, custom boost & intake pipe setup, running a 2.62 pulley.... on my R32, planning to go way bigger after i finish renovating my house:laugh:


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

Oops, I should have made the distinction between the R32 and the 2.8 guys. :facepalm: There actually are a few R32 guys out there who have done a lot with great results. 2.8 24v, not so much. Superchargers are pretty damn near hated over on the 2.8 24v forums.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

Dr. E Brown said:


> I probably mentioned it at some point much earlier in this thread, but for the 24v guys, I would be very interested in seeing the results of mating a 3.2l VR head to the 2.8 block, with the VF Stage 2 kit for the 2.8. I would do it myself, as I actually just acquired a 3.2 head, but I will be going back to N/A...


the heads are nearly idenitcal and flow the same...the REAL reason te R32 puts out more power is simple: displacement. with nearly 0.5L MORE displacement, they output MORE power.

:beer:


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

and higher compression:thumbup:


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

websaabn said:


> and higher compression:thumbup:


oh...and better variable valve control


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

It's been proven that the 3.2l head flows considerably better. There are flowbench numbers somewhere, likely in one of Powerdubs threads. Larger valves, larger ports, etc, etc...

There is a 2.8 24v with a 3.2 head swap and some cams making over 250whp, naturally aspirated. Straight 2.8 24v's with I/C/E and cams are barely over 200whp with a good tune.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

Dr. E Brown said:


> It's been proven that the 3.2l head flows considerably better. There are flowbench numbers somewhere, likely in one of Powerdubs threads. Larger valves, larger ports, etc, etc...
> 
> There is a 2.8 24v with a 3.2 head swap and some cams making over 250whp, naturally aspirated. Straight 2.8 24v's with I/C/E and cams are barely over 200whp with a good tune.


50whp with just swapping the head? why doesnt everyone do it then? show me a dyno or i dont believe it. these motors arent ls1's :sly:


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 6, 2007)

crazysccrmd said:


> I was thinking the same thing. Seems strange that 1552 would put it out as having C2 software, unless they somehow got a custom tune which is doubtful.


Car came to us like that and Jeff Atwood confirmed for us it was his tune.


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> Car came to us like that and Jeff Atwood confirmed for us it was his tune.


ok, good to know. wish i were actually around the car in person. this is making waiting to get home seem even longer now :banghead:


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

mk4vrjtta said:


> 50whp with just swapping the head? why doesnt everyone do it then? show me a dyno or i dont believe it. these motors are ls1's :sly:


This is what I dug up so far, the flow comparisons and more numbers are out there, but I'm pretty sure they are in one of Powerdubs' 70 page megathreads...

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3968536


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 6, 2007)

crazysccrmd said:


> ok, good to know. wish i were actually around the car in person. this is making waiting to get home seem even longer now :banghead:


:beer:

Keep in mind that was at least a couple owners ago, so I can't really assume I know what the car is running as of now.


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

only one owner after, actually. i bought it from Brian who bought it from you.


----------



## V-dubbulyuh (Nov 13, 2005)

crazysccrmd said:


> only one owner after, actually. i bought it from Brian who bought it from you.



Looking good Slease.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

Dr. E Brown said:


> This is what I dug up so far, the flow comparisons and more numbers are out there, but I'm pretty sure they are in one of Powerdubs' 70 page megathreads...
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3968536


FYI - that thread talks about a 15% increase in flow....and even if you could directly correlate this flow to power/output/efficiencies at a straight 15% * 201 hp = 231 hp or about a 30 hp increase not 50 hp. also, this is at the cracnk, not wheels.

there is better flow, but for the $$ it's not a huge gain in power for the mods to the rest of the motor to make it work, or the cost of swapping heads.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

well the oil seal on my v1 started to leak. REBUILD time. I purchased the 928 rebuild kit and shims for the impeller. Can't wait to try it all out!!!


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

.LSinLV. said:


> FYI - that thread talks about a 15% increase in flow....and even if you could directly correlate this flow to power/output/efficiencies at a straight 15% * 201 hp = 231 hp or about a 30 hp increase not 50 hp. also, this is at the cracnk, not wheels.
> 
> there is better flow, but for the $$ it's not a huge gain in power for the mods to the rest of the motor to make it work, or the cost of swapping heads.


Its the same argument is 8v vs. 16v. Same, or just a little bit more displacement, one flows better (and has the potential for greater increases). Stock power levels aren't that far off from each other, but the possibility for gains on the 16v (N/A) are far greater. 1.8 16v has about a 35hp advantage on 1.8 8v from the factory (depending on version). If you were to do portwork, aggressive cams, run both on a similar, well tuned standalone setup, free-flowing exhaust, higher compression, etc, would the 16v still only have 35hp on the 8v? Hell no (and this is coming from a closet 8v fanboy :laugh

"For the $$."
I hear that one a lot, and it does make sense if you keep looking at the $1000+ price of used R32 heads on vortex. However, if you go elsewhere, prices can be much, much lower. All 3.2l VR heads are identical, so that means a base-model Toureg is a candidate. People don't think they have gold when they pull a head off a Toureg, in the way they do off an R32 or TT 3.2l.
Also, the cost of swapping the heads, the way I see it, is no more than the cost of some gaskets and hardware. You can even retain the stock exhaust manifolds, but porting is recommended, an easy DIY. Stock 2.8 head bolts DO work, they just must be installed before the cams due to clearance.

"Mods to the rest of the motor."
What mods? It drops right on. Again, using the 2.8 head bolts, as well as the head gasket. My motor will not be removed from the car, nor the oil pan even dropped, for the work I'll be doing.

Obviously, even combined with cams and the other mods I have in mind, I will be making less power than with the blower, for reasons which I stated in my FS thread. But I figured I would throw the R head+S/C idea out there for others. 2.8 24v'ers with superchargers often get it drilled into their head by the 24v tech forum that their supercharger sucks, they can't get any more power out of it than they already are, and they should have just gone turbo. This is just an option that can increase output, using OEM VW components, and without even increasing your boost.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Dr. E Brown said:


> Its the same argument is 8v vs. 16v. Same, or just a little bit more displacement, one flows better (and has the potential for greater increases). Stock power levels aren't that far off from each other, but the possibility for gains on the 16v (N/A) are far greater. 1.8 16v has about a 35hp advantage on 1.8 8v from the factory (depending on version). If you were to do portwork, aggressive cams, run both on a similar, well tuned standalone setup, free-flowing exhaust, higher compression, etc, would the 16v still only have 35hp on the 8v? Hell no (and this is coming from a closet 8v fanboy :laugh
> 
> "For the $$."
> I hear that one a lot, and it does make sense if you keep looking at the $1000+ price of used R32 heads on vortex. However, if you go elsewhere, prices can be much, much lower. All 3.2l VR heads are identical, so that means a base-model Toureg is a candidate. People don't think they have gold when they pull a head off a Toureg, in the way they do off an R32 or TT 3.2l.
> ...



Very good points. Flow is key to a good SC setup. I would side with with more displacement over just the head swap. 3.6l with a T-trim would make one hell of a power house, but again the cost is pretty substantial when you get down to doing it. 

I would step up to a V1 rather than going the head route.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

DeckManDubs said:


> Very good points. Flow is key to a good SC setup. I would side with with more displacement over just the head swap. 3.6l with a T-trim would make one hell of a power house, but again the cost is pretty substantial when you get down to doing it.
> 
> I would step up to a V1 rather than going the head route.




Keep your fingers crossed. I might just be doing this soon!!!!!!!!!!!:laugh::wave:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

littlenr said:


> Keep your fingers crossed. I might just be doing this soon!!!!!!!!!!!:laugh::wave:



You better...your going to need it to keep up in the spring Nate


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

DeckManDubs said:


> You better...your going to need it to keep up in the spring Nate


Oh yeah? You doing the same thing finally? My deal will have awd involved. Or are you finally getting that P-car?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

littlenr said:


> Oh yeah? You doing the same thing finally? My deal will have awd involved. Or are you finally getting that P-car?


P-car is going to have to wait till next winter. I have some tricks I have yet to pull out of the hat


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

DeckManDubs said:


> P-car is going to have to wait till next winter. I have some tricks I have yet to pull out of the hat


hmm... i have a bunch of those...


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

littlenr said:


> hmm... i have a bunch of those...



I hope you get it all sorted for SoWo :laugh:



littlenr said:


> well the oil seal on my v1 started to leak. REBUILD time. I purchased the 928 rebuild kit and shims for the impeller. Can't wait to try it all out!!!


Almost time for a hybrid blower :biggrinsanta:


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Anyone have a non leaky oil pan with a bung welded in it? I would just buy a new one but have no means to weld a bung on the side like my old one. And the turbo ones have the bung on the front. Gay


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

^ I have my used SC pan. It has a welded barb type fitting. No leaks. LMK

My current pan was welded w/ a an fitting. there was pin hole leak at the top/outside where the welder tip didnt quite fit all the way. Of corse discovered after it was mounted & full of oil(so not going to weld that) I used some 2 part Loctite/JB weld metal epoxy. this leak free now & even more reinforced 

good 2 part metal epoxies are highly recommended for bungs.
also a great way to permanently adhere real AN fittings to your fuel rails for those wanting to use real AN fittings.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Pm me with price and maybe a pic?


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

Is there a T-Trim mod for the V9 ? If so does anyone have an idea of power increases ?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Dunkfan914 said:


> Is there a T-Trim mod for the V9 ? If so does anyone have an idea of power increases ?


no upgrades out there for a v9. the F-trim v9 is all you get.


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

F trim ?


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

Dunkfan914 said:


> F trim ?


imepller with a more agressive fin/blade design, it flows more air.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Merry Christmas everyone :biggrinsanta:


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> Merry Christmas everyone :biggrinsanta:


:thumbup: weren't you supposed to call me?? :sly:

:grinsanta:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

.LSinLV. said:


> :thumbup: weren't you supposed to call me?? :sly:
> 
> :grinsanta:


Got tied up at work  sorry boss...I'll try to ring you on monday


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

Is there any real power shown from this mod to the blower ?


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

Dunkfan914 said:


> Is there any real power shown from this mod to the blower ?


what mod???


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

.LSinLV. said:


> what mod???


Impeller? 

On a V9 its almost pointless in my opinion due to not being able to run it any faster than the stock cast unit.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

a late happy holidays to all the blower boys. :snowcool:

I still have my 2.75" pulley if anyone is after one. check my sig.

here's a pic from my latest tear down (seems as soon as I have the thing running I tear it apart again...)










It's a good luck tradition to hump an empty engine bay, right?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

obdONE said:


> a late happy holidays to all the blower boys. :snowcool:
> 
> here's a pic from my latest tear down (seems as soon as I have the thing running I tear it apart again...)
> 
> ...


3.6 or bust Jamie :laugh:


----------



## LowLife (Jun 30, 2005)

Can anyone verify if the piping of a VF engineering kit could be used with a V1 or V2 charger? Has anyone ditched the V9 unit for one of these on this kit?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

LowLife said:


> Can anyone verify if the piping of a VF engineering kit could be used with a V1 or V2 charger? Has anyone ditched the V9 unit for one of these on this kit?



negative on using the V9 piping for a V1/V2 with the AMS style brackets.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> Impeller?
> 
> On a V9 its almost pointless in my opinion due to not being able to run it any faster than the stock cast unit.


agreed...while it will flow more air at all rpm's you won't get enough to match/compare to the V1/V2 for the cost.


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

.LSinLV. said:


> imepller with a more agressive fin/blade design, it flows more air.


The F trim is what the VFE kit supplied and the G trim is the one you speak of I believe. According to Vortech's website, the G trim only gains 75 cfm and .5 lb of boost.


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

Dunkfan914 said:


> Is there a T-Trim mod for the V9 ? If so does anyone have an idea of power increases ?


I will let you know when I find out. I am sending my v9 to 928 Motorsports to have them check to see if they can cut down the v1/v2 performance impeller, or modify my v9, or make one for the v9. I need to get back to him about the shipping but I have been busy over the holidays. After the new year, I will have at least an answer.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

92jetta9a said:


> I will let you know when I find out. I am sending my v9 to 928 Motorsports to have them check to see if they can cut down the v1/v2 performance impeller, or modify my v9, or make one for the v9. I need to get back to him about the shipping but I have been busy over the holidays. After the new year, I will have at least an answer.


I dont think they will have any luck. The V9 inlet has a much different design than the V1's. Had both apart on my bench a couple weeks back. But I guess it might be worth a try, better off just jumping to a v1 or v2 for the best bang for your buck. Then always jump up to a 928M if you get bored.


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

I'm sure I will get the itch to do so but for now.....


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

DeckManDubs said:


> 3.6 or bust Jamie :laugh:


haha yeah man. Netherlands eat your heart out! (that's where the r36 mk2 guy is from, right? )


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

Does anyone know the thread type/size of the hole above the oil filter, where the supercharger oil feed attaches? The VF kit includes a fitting that threads into that hole, and is I believe a -4 AN on the outside.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Dr. E Brown said:


> Does anyone know the thread type/size of the hole above the oil filter, where the supercharger oil feed attaches? The VF kit includes a fitting that threads into that hole, and is I believe a -4 AN on the outside.


The oil filter housing is M10x1.0, the feed line I believe you are correct on being a -4AN


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

Can anyone tell me if the rado and golf/jetta kits (obd1) had the same piping or if there were differences in the CAI inlet pipe and charge pipe? I just got my kit and it was for a obd1 rado.

The pipes I received are already ceramic coated as was wondering if I will be able to use them or not.

TIA


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

I am in need a 36cc injectors or maybe even 42 green tops ? i just made a new mani and my kentic 36ccs are cut to fit the stock mani and do not work with the new one. 

P/S did anyone see anymore power with 42s? 

Larry input please


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Dunkfan914 said:


> I am in need a 36cc injectors or maybe even 42 green tops ? i just made a new mani and my kentic 36ccs are cut to fit the stock mani and do not work with the new one.
> 
> P/S did anyone see anymore power with 42s?
> 
> Larry input please


I have some 36# injectors sitting in a box. They are 380cc. MK3 manifold fitment.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

Dunkfan914 said:


> I am in need a 36cc injectors or maybe even 42 green tops ? i just made a new mani and my kentic 36ccs are cut to fit the stock mani and do not work with the new one.
> 
> P/S did anyone see anymore power with 42s?
> 
> Larry input please


not sure what you mean by more power???? I jumped both in programing and other mods with my injectors and there was more power, but I attribute that to being more SW AND injectors, as they are symbiotic....just installing injectors shouldn't really get you more power, unless you have the fuel (pump, fpr) and SW to make use of the injectors.

as for injectors I have a set of marrelli 45lb units I'll sell you cheap....they are the "shortie" units that can fit in the stock fuel rail/manifold.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

All I know is when I stepped up to 630cc injectors and software wow huge change. Totally different car:thumbup:


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

littlenr said:


> All I know is when I stepped up to 630cc *injectors and software *wow huge change. Totally different car:thumbup:


similar to my post....just installing injectors will NOT gain you power....you need the tune to go with it, which allows the injectors to work properly....add to that, if you are maxed on fuel (volume not pressure) you will not get anything from just adding a larger set of injectors.

:beer:


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

I wanted to re tune the car and put bigger injectors on.. By more power i met in #'s im trying everyway to squeez the most out of my v9. 

I need injectors to fit my New mani.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

Dunkfan914 said:


> I wanted to re tune the car and put bigger injectors on.. By more power i met in #'s im trying everyway to squeez the most out of my v9.
> 
> I need injectors to fit my New mani.


then you are still missing half of the equation....AIR...if you can't flow more air to match the fueling you will NOT see more power; it's as simple as that.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

92jetta9a said:


> Can anyone tell me if the rado and golf/jetta kits (obd1) had the same piping or if there were differences in the CAI inlet pipe and charge pipe? I just got my kit and it was for a obd1 rado.
> 
> The pipes I received are already ceramic coated as was wondering if I will be able to use them or not.
> 
> TIA


same piping


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

.LSinLV. said:


> then you are still missing half of the equation....AIR...if you can't flow more air to match the fueling you will NOT see more power; it's as simple as that.


Got cha,  you wouldnt happen to have a set of injectors laying around to fit my new manafolid


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

.LSinLV. said:


> similar to my post....just installing injectors will NOT gain you power....you need the tune to go with it, which allows the injectors to work properly....add to that, if you are maxed on fuel (volume not pressure) you will not get anything from just adding a larger set of injectors.
> 
> :beer:


I have an inline 255 fuel pump and intake 255 fuel pump. V1-t trim at 12psi. So I have fuel and air Volumes!!!:laugh::laugh::laugh:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Dunkfan914 said:


> Got cha,  you wouldnt happen to have a set of injectors laying around to fit my new manafolid


what injector frame do you need? EV1? If so my injectors will fit.


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

To be honest im not a 100 percent sure. i have to double check.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Dunkfan914 said:


> To be honest im not a 100 percent sure. i have to double check.


mk3 style or mk4 style?


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

mkiv


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

mine are mk3. wont fit with out some modification.


----------



## rhussjr (Aug 7, 2000)

Very few choices for the Mk4 12V's when it comes to injectors.


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

rhussjr said:


> Very few choices for the Mk4 12V's when it comes to injectors.


Tell me about it, I am just starting to realize. 

I have a mk3 fuel rail if that matters haha. I dont know much about injectors & fueling


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

rhussjr said:


> Very few choices for the Mk4 12V's when it comes to injectors.


because the intake manifolds are junk. If you keep it n/a you will be fine on stock injectors and all the tuning you want. However as soon as you start FI and over 10psi they tend to blow up. SO in short switch to a short runner or go to the mk3 style intake manifolds. Then the injector options are huge, since mk3 shares the same style injecter as Ford Motorsport.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

rhussjr said:


> Very few choices for the Mk4 12V's when it comes to injectors.


Weber/Marrelli make plenty of injectors that fit (and work) in the stock fuel rail/manifold....I have some nearly new 45lb units for cheap if you are interested.

:beer:


----------



## rhussjr (Aug 7, 2000)

I did state that there are very few choices for the application, W/M being one of them. I never use stock Mk4 intakes, so I do not need them.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Where does the idler pulley and bracket bolt up to? Block? Or accessory bracket?


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

for what kit? on my vf engineering kit, the single idler bolts to where the alternator does :thumbup:


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Im unsure wat kit. And u mean u bolted it to the bracket that the alt goes on? Or u moved ur alt and the idler went right in the exact spot the alt goes


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

The two regular alternator bolts are replaced by longer allen-head bolts, which attach the idler bracket to the side of the alternator bracket. The alternator is not relocated. This is for the VF kits at least...


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Hmm anyone have a picture?


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

BAM!


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Ah ur awesome. Thanks


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

the start to my rebuild: 



























That lasted a long time:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

littlenr said:


> the start to my rebuild:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Looking good boss.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

I went with the kit from 928 Motorsports. We shall see what the future brings!!!


----------



## mars2 (Sep 16, 2008)

92jetta9a said:


> I will let you know when I find out. I am sending my v9 to 928 Motorsports to have them check to see if they can cut down the v1/v2 performance impeller, or modify my v9, or make one for the v9. I need to get back to him about the shipping but I have been busy over the holidays. After the new year, I will have at least an answer.


 Any news on that? 

Did you see that impeller for V9 from UK? 
http://www.r32oc.com/forced-induction/8282-has-anyone-had-their-supercharger-rebuilt.html 
See post 18


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

My charger is in the mail currently, should arrive there Monday. Carl is going on vacation from the 9th to the 15th so he told me he would get to it when he gets back. I will update this thread when I get an answer.


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

mars2 said:


> Any news on that?
> 
> Did you see that impeller for V9 from UK?
> http://www.r32oc.com/forced-induction/8282-has-anyone-had-their-supercharger-rebuilt.html
> See post 18


 I figured that modification of the housing is what will have to happen. I will know more in a week or two.


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

hey all , 

I was thinking of running water/meth injection... Any thoughts ? or feedback from anyone running it on a v9... power number gains ?


----------



## mars2 (Sep 16, 2008)

I just saw this impeller when searching for new bearing.
Look likie they can fit in V9 according to what they right down.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Impel...#ht_500wt_1182

http://www.superchargerrebuild.com/?p=130

http://www.superchargerrebuild.com/?page_id=6

What do you think about it?


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

I did see the ones superchargerrebuild is providing but since 928 is local and has the patent on the impeller, I thought I would see what they can offer. Plus they have actual flow data for their impeller. superchargerrebuild really has no info other than that it's available.


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

*Performance Impeller*

I just received my charger back in the mail and I got in touch with the tech who looked at it with Carl before he went on vacation. I wasn't aware of this but this is what the tech said.

Apparently the V9 has a different size impeller (smaller) and it is also taller so using the performance impeller from 928 is not an option without serious (expensive; 3 axis milling machine @ $150/hr) modification plus the cost of the impeller. He also said that the V9 was obviously produced years later when technology was better and the impeller looked as if there was little room for improvement of airflow, compared the outdated V1/V2 impellers. The V1/V2 impellers had more room for improvement to air flow. 

I guess we will just have to see what the guy over in the UK ends up with his modified charger or contact superchargerrebuild and see what they have to say.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

92jetta9a said:


> I just received my charger back in the mail and I got in touch with the tech who looked at it with Carl before he went on vacation. I wasn't aware of this but this is what the tech said.
> 
> Apparently the V9 has a different size impeller (smaller) and it is also taller so using the performance impeller from 928 is not an option without serious (expensive; 3 axis milling machine @ $150/hr) modification plus the cost of the impeller. He also said that the V9 was obviously produced years later when technology was better and the impeller looked as if there was little room for improvement of airflow, compared the outdated V1/V2 impellers. The V1/V2 impellers had more room for improvement to air flow.
> 
> I guess we will just have to see what the guy over in the UK ends up with his modified charger or contact superchargerrebuild and see what they have to say.





DeckManDubs said:


> I dont think they will have any luck. The V9 inlet has a much different design than the V1's. Had both apart on my bench a couple weeks back. But I guess it might be worth a try, better off just jumping to a v1 or v2 for the best bang for your buck. Then always jump up to a 928M if you get bored.



:beer: I also hear Carl is going cogged :laugh:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

charger is totally rebuilt. I've thought about cogs. But I need to figure other issues out first. All should be sorted by this time next month!!


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

littlenr said:


> charger is totally rebuilt. I've thought about cogs. But I need to figure other issues out first. All should be sorted by this time next month!!


3.6.....


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

DeckManDubs said:


> 3.6.....


deciding which car to use first. I really don't want to touch the corrado. If the coupe is still here I may dip into body work and then cogs.


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

Deckman, you were right but it was worth a shot. I haven't talked to Carl since he is on vacation but I'm sure that it would be more cost effective to do as you said, change chargers.

For the V9 F trim users:

Got a hold of Todd at supercharrebuild and he said that you can get their G trim billet impeller but it would require scroll modification at $120 plus the cost of the impeller. He also said that there is no proven data, just info received back from buyers. They apparently indicated an increase of 2-3 psi in the low to mid range and more up top but it all depends on application, obviously. 

I don't know which road I will go down but a cogged setup is sounding more promising.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Just ordered ngk bkr7e's for my low boost setup. Should I have just went with stock?


----------



## bmxdarcy (Mar 7, 2006)

Rather than build a cog setup I went 10 rib on my v1. Muscle guys all seem to say that has solved slip problems. Haven't seen if I'm going to have to cut the frame rail in the mk3 for it yet though...

What is everyone doing for air measurement and excess boost. The kit I purchased used a TIAL bov, not sure how I feel about that.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

92jetta9a said:


> Deckman, you were right but it was worth a shot. I haven't talked to Carl since he is on vacation but I'm sure that it would be more cost effective to do as you said, change chargers.
> 
> For the V9 F trim users:
> 
> ...


:beer: Def worth a try. For more power a header and cams with standalone would be great power adders prior to jumping to a bigger blower. 13-14psi on a V1 or V2 with 268's and a S2 header with some good old standalone will make you


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)




----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

Selling my top mount now:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5158813-FS-Custom-Built-Top-Mount-Air-to-Air-Intercooler

Glad to see you guys are still pushing the boundaries. :thumbup:


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Nobody on spark plug choice?


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

i ran 7e's on my turbo setup from 6psi all the way to 15psi without problems. might be worth trying 6e's though since you will be staying on low boost and wont see peak until redline with the charger


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Thanks ill prob up the boost eventually just starting low


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Autolite [yes I did say Autolite] AR-3923 or AR-3922 work well. They are a single electrode plug and have a colder heat range good for forced induction use and do not foul or suffer spark blow out easily. I have used them on turbo VR6's and ABA's and they worked well in my old supercharged Jetta GLX. They are also easy to find at most parts houses.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Gotcha. In the process of looking at a 3.0 vr anyone have experience with a motor bored .2 over? Anything to look out for?


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Okay here's another question.... I have a 98 gti. AAA block. I have the brackets about to go on... supercharger bracket is a bit odd fitting. Here's a pic can anyone tell me the.brand it is?








That top bolt hole doesn't line up with anything. Its actually in the way. Hits the top of the head and valve cover making the whole bracket sit on an angle leaning foward. Here's an attempted pic of that...








See the gap towards the back? Problem one. Now problem two... the idler sits flush against the alternator. But there's still a half inch gap for the bolt holes...








I could stack a ton of washers but it just seems like its the.wrong figment all together. 
Thanks in advance


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I'm looking to be building a supercharged car this spring.
I've got a rough idea of what I'm looking to get, but I don't know much when it comes to pulleys and such (dual idler etc).

With that said, there's a V1 for sale a couple hours from my place for $1000.
It came off a F150.

Should that bolt right up with the right bracket & pulleys?


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

Make sure it is CCW rotation.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

KubotaPowered said:


> Make sure it is CCW rotation.


I'll find out, but it should be as those guys run CCW


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

If anyone has a bracket setup they wanna get rid of, lmk. I don't have a complete kit. Or if u have a few parts. That'll do aswell


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

euroguy666 said:


> Okay here's another question.... I have a 98 gti. AAA block. I have the brackets about to go on... supercharger bracket is a bit odd fitting. Here's a pic can anyone tell me the.brand it is?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


1. The top bolt hole is for if you drill into your head to gain extra support so not to rip the treads out of the tensioner position. 

2. There should be some aluminum stand offs and longer bolts for the idler. ~.460 thickness


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Wats the thickness of the standoffs? .4 of an inch?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

That is correct 0.460" (11.63mm)


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

euroguy666 said:


> If anyone has a bracket setup they wanna get rid of, lmk. I don't have a complete kit. Or if u have a few parts. That'll do aswell


PM me for info


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

I know this is going back a couple months but did verdict ever come out with a o2 spacer for those running the TT downpipes?


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Pmed. And thanks for the measurements if I can't get ones from a kit ill know about the size ill need to create something. My buddy is a master with his tig so well see. Working on a custom bracket possibly aswell!


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

euroguy666 said:


> Okay here's another question.... I have a 98 gti. AAA block. I have the brackets about to go on... supercharger bracket is a bit odd fitting. Here's a pic can anyone tell me the.brand it is?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The kit pictured is a copy of the of AMS, not made by AMS, as the cuts look more plasma cut rather than laser cut, so the quality is less than par. Top bolt hole has to be drilled into the head and tapped for threads [optional use, but not required]. I may have a set of spacers for the alternator bracket. You would rather use one spacer than a stack of washers for best stabiltiy and minimum flex.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

I agree on the washer comment. I basically need the spacers and that's about it. Im gonna get rid of the top hole and get the verdict support for the rear. That should be way more than enough support.


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

euroguy666 said:


> I agree on the washer comment. I basically need the spacers and that's about it. Im gonna get rid of the top hole and get the verdict support for the rear. That should be way more than enough support.


Replied to your email


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Thanks phil. You helped me out a ton!


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

you should be able to get aluminum spacers from home depot / lowes easily enough. either that or phil or noah could make you some, I'm sure.

Phil, what happened to that guy interested in my pulley? I never heard from him...


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Phil hooked me up with the spacers and hardware. Thanks!


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

euroguy666 said:


> Thanks phil. You helped me out a ton!


Not a problem :beer:



obdONE said:


> Phil, what happened to that guy interested in my pulley? I never heard from him...


I emailed him your info. Be patient!


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

MeCarTay said:


> I emailed him your info. Be patient!



:banghead:



I just want someone to go out and have some fun with this thing instead of it sitting on a box all lonely and sad.


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

obdONE said:


> :banghead:
> 
> 
> 
> I just want someone to go out and have some fun with this thing instead of it sitting on a box all lonely and sad.


Well just think.. if you didn't bail and go turbo that person could be you! 
:laugh:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

i'm ready for the snow to go away.


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

who isnt? you just gotta look at winter as a built in build time :grinsanta:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

where is the cheapest place to get the weld on bungs for diverter valves?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

MeCarTay said:


> Well just think.. if you didn't bail and go turbo that person could be you!
> :laugh:


HA! Well played sir...


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

littlenr said:


> where is the cheapest place to get the weld on bungs for diverter valves?


Aluminum or Stainless? 1" OD x .750 ID x 2"lg?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

DeckManDubs said:


> Aluminum or Stainless? 1" OD x .750 ID x 2"lg?


That should do it. I need one in AL and one in stainless.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

littlenr said:


> That should do it. I need one in AL and one in stainless.


I will take care of them this week some night when I have a few moments of free time at the shop :beer:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

DeckManDubs said:


> I will take care of them this week some night when I have a few moments of free time at the shop :beer:


you rock. I need to get the 2nd DV installed before I start driving the coupe again. I plan to get the engine and charger back together by next month. Then see where I stand with taxes. 

Major body repair overhaul is in the future.:facepalm:


pm sent Noah.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Just a quick question, but what would be the difference between an OBD1 & OBD2 setup? 
I mean, aside from the chip and MAF, could you not just use an obd2 setup with the proper adjustments?


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

prometheus_ said:


> Just a quick question, but what would be the difference between an OBD1 & OBD2 setup?
> I mean, aside from the chip and MAF, could you not just use an obd2 setup with the proper adjustments?


 Difference mainly would be the chip. Use a C2 OBD1 program, MAF housing and fab up some quick plumbing and you'll be all set


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Cool that's exactly what I wanted to know. 
What about the V1 and V2 chargers? 

As far as I can tell, the V2 is the better of the two, yet the only ones i really see people running are the V9s (since they're the cheapest and readily available) and V1s. The V2 is not only *cheaper* than the V1, but according to Vortechs site it produces the same CFM as the V1, but at lower pressure & rpm 

Are there bearing issues with them like the V9s? What gives?


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Personally the v1 is a fav of mine bc its loud as ****. The v2 is a quiet version


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

prometheus_ said:


> Cool that's exactly what I wanted to know.
> What about the V1 and V2 chargers?
> 
> As far as I can tell, the V2 is the better of the two, yet the only ones i really see people running are the V9s (since they're the cheapest and readily available) and V1s. The V2 is not only *cheaper* than the V1, but according to Vortechs site it produces the same CFM as the V1, but at lower pressure & rpm
> ...


 V1 is the strongest one if you get the T trim impeller. A V2 will not move the same CFM as a V1 unless you upgrade the impeller. And these two chargers are stronger than a V9 for sure. The big frame chargers are where it is. IF you wanted to use the V3 the oil system is self contained!! No need for oil supply and return lines, and the V3 mounts up to V1/V2 hardware.....


----------



## V-dubbulyuh (Nov 13, 2005)

Rheinland Technik said:


> Autolite [yes I did say Autolite] AR-3923 or AR-3922 work well. They are a single electrode plug and have a colder heat range good for forced induction use and do not foul or suffer spark blow out easily.


 
Remarkable but true. I could not get hold of my usual NGK plugs and tried these out of desperation. Held up perfectly (would *not *run them as a standard but in the interim they are a decent substitute).


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

littlenr said:


> V1 is the strongest one if you get the T trim impeller. A V2 will not move the same CFM as a V1 unless you upgrade the impeller.


 _*Vortech V-1 Si-Trim Supercharger* 
Max Speed: 55000 RPM 
Max Boost: 26 PSI 
Max Flow: 1150 CFM 
Max Power: 775 HP 
Peak Efficiency: 78% 

*Vortech V-2 SQ Si-Trim Supercharger* 
Max Speed: 52000 RPM 
Max Boost: 22 PSI 
Max Flow: 1150 CFM 
Max Power: 775 HP 
Peak Efficiency: 78%_ 

Right from the Vortech website, am I missing something? Why would they advertise it as such and make no mention of requiring an upgrade?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

prometheus_ said:


> _*Vortech V-1 Si-Trim Supercharger*
> Max Speed: 55000 RPM
> Max Boost: 26 PSI
> Max Flow: 1150 CFM
> ...


 I stated T- Trim. Never mentioned anything about the s or sq trims.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Vortech V-1 T-Trim Supercharger 
Vortech V-1 T-Trim Supercharger 

View larger image 
Performance Specs 

Max Speed: 
55000 RPM 
Max Boost: 
26 PSI 
Max Flow: 
1200 CFM 
Max Power: 
825 HP 
Peak Efficiency: 
73%


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

this page will allow you to compare them all on one sheet! 

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/scspecsheet.php


----------



## rhussjr (Aug 7, 2000)

V-dubbulyuh said:


> Remarkable but true. I could not get hold of my usual NGK plugs and tried these out of desperation. Held up perfectly (would *not *run them as a standard but in the interim they are a decent substitute).


 
We ran them a few years back on three different motors. One was an ABA Turbo that developed a high end miss, which ended up being the spark being blown out. The second use was on a ABA 16V drag car, which we carried over their use from the previous ABA experiance. Finally, we used them in a VR6 Turbo making over 600 hp to the wheels. I tend to keep a set on hand now as they work well, easily found and are cheap to buy.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Need some advice on a motor. A buddy of mine has a 3.0 12v for sale... Eip big valve head. Stock crank. Stock rods. 9.0:1 comp pistons everything is brandnew. I hear guys saying not to run boost on bored motors because of cooling issues due to thinner cyl walls. I was looking to run my intercooled v2 setup on this motor. To buy? Or not to buy? Let me hear what you have to say!


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

buy it. a friend of mine (V-dubbulyuh, posted above) runs 25psi on a 3.0l.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Yeah? Well that's a good sign. Is there a reason why people build motors with stock rods? Are vr6 rods strong?


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

the bottom end is extremely strong, people routinely run 500+ whp with just a headspacer to lower compression. with only using a v2 and probably not going over 15psi the need for reduced compression is even debatable.


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

*Input please * 

I want to finish my engine compleatly, I just got done doing a SRI,


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

Water/meth ? Anyone have any input / number gains from running this. 

Also i wanted to build a custom set of headers has anyone toyed around with this aswell 

Larry :wave:


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

euroguy666 said:


> Need some advice on a motor. A buddy of mine has a 3.0 12v for sale... Eip big valve head. Stock crank. Stock rods. 9.0:1 comp pistons everything is brandnew. I hear guys saying not to run boost on bored motors because of cooling issues due to thinner cyl walls. I was looking to run my intercooled v2 setup on this motor. To buy? Or not to buy? Let me hear what you have to say!


 I agree with what the others have posted. As far as the cooling system, just be smart about it, and you wont have a problem. Make sure everything is in working order with the cooling system, including the fans. Maybe even install a mechanical coolant temp sensor and gauge (not an electronic dummy gauge like on the cluster) to monitor things more accurately. 

It's a modified engine, and as long as you treat it as such, you won't have a problem.


----------



## 95golfgti (Jun 21, 2008)

Im running a 8psi s/c on my daily vr6. I got the head off and getting it rebuilt are autotech 262 cams worth buying while I got it apart? what hp gain? Should I go for lw lifters and hd springs?


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Poop. The motor is 8 to 1 compression. Im trying to run like 10 psi and stay around 300 hp. That's impossible with 8 to 1 id say


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

euroguy666 said:


> Poop. The motor is 8 to 1 compression. Im trying to run like 10 psi and stay around 300 hp. That's impossible with 8 to 1 id say


You would need to get around 15psi in the motor for 8:1 compression. That motor will be great up top, but a turd down low.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

euroguy666 said:


> Need some advice on a motor. A buddy of mine has a 3.0 12v for sale... Eip big valve head. Stock crank. Stock rods. 9.0:1 comp pistons everything is brandnew. I hear guys saying not to run boost on bored motors because of cooling issues due to thinner cyl walls. I was looking to run my intercooled v2 setup on this motor. To buy? Or not to buy? Let me hear what you have to say!


I ran a supercharged 3.0 liter here in Arizona's heat last summer daily and the temperature stayed lower than it did stock. I used a low temp fan switch to kick the fans on sooner and a low temp thermostat so that full coolant flow happen quicker. On the days it was over 110 degrees, the engine temp never went over 190 degrees.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

Dunkfan914 said:


> Water/meth ? Anyone have any input / number gains from running this.
> 
> Also i wanted to build a custom set of headers has anyone toyed around with this aswell
> 
> Larry :wave:


youre not gonna really gain anything unless the car is pulling timing. it will help fight heat soak though. to really take advantage of its benefits youll need to advance the timing and/or raise the boost and take out some fuel. :thumbu


----------



## V-dubbulyuh (Nov 13, 2005)

crazysccrmd said:


> a friend of mine runs 25psi on a *3.0l*.


So you heard about that already huh? All the way in Iraq. :facepalm:


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

V-dubbulyuh said:


> So you heard about that already huh? All the way in Iraq. :facepalm:


there are times we don't roll anywhere for a couple days in a row - I end up reading a lot on vortex and caught that post in another thread somewhere

:laugh:


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Yeah that's what I assumed. Screw it... ill build my 2.8 next winter.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

Dunkfan914 said:


> Water/meth ? Anyone have any input / number gains from running this.
> 
> Also i wanted to build a custom set of headers has anyone toyed around with this aswell
> 
> Larry :wave:


a DP with larger primaries, in the 2 1/4" range will do wonders, but I see no reason to build a header, unless it incorporates a DP....the stock cast manifold flows very well.


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

.LSinLV. said:


> a DP with larger primaries, in the 2 1/4" range will do wonders, but I see no reason to build a header, unless it incorporates a DP....the stock cast manifold flows very well.


Good to know, & what about the water/meth set up ?


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

Dunkfan914 said:


> Good to know, & what about the water/meth set up ?


if you are tuned for it, or if you are already pulling timing then it will help. if you are not going to get a tune for w/m, or are not already pulling timing then it will not help that much.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Yummm. Cnc'ed goodness


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

^ 

Glad you like. Now hurry up and get all those new goodies installed!
:laugh:


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

All in due time... actually waiting on VW to get me 3 bolts for the trans mount so I can put the motor back in my car


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

purchased you some bling!!


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

can anyone tell me some part number of air filter like this or where can i get something like this


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Installed. Bolts phil gave me were right lenght but not enough thread for the idler and alternator. Ughh


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

euroguy666 said:


> Installed. Bolts phil gave me were right lenght but not enough thread for the idler and alternator. Ughh


How much more thread do you need boss?


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Main Filter Attaches to blower RC-3180 K&N Filter
Secondary Filter for secondary air pump 62-1390 K&N Filter


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Quarter inch tops. The end of the bolt pokes out the back of the alt bracket. But I run outta thread and the non threaded part starts bumping against the threaded thing on the alt.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

euroguy666 said:


> Quarter inch tops. The end of the bolt pokes out the back of the alt bracket. But I run outta thread and the non threaded part starts bumping against the threaded thing on the alt.



Bolt measures 4.75" that you have. Length needs to be 5.00". I will advise Phil and will take care of it. :beer:

PS: Support bracket looks money!


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Thanks... ps, those bolts r kinda weak lol. Snapped one off in the alt tapping it out tomorrow lol


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

euroguy666 said:


> Thanks... ps, those bolts r kinda weak lol. Snapped one off in the alt tapping it out tomorrow lol



Thanks for the heads up. All are headed for the trash right now :thumbup:


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Haha really? That's kinda funny if u weren't being sarcastic. Well after the idler goes on, motor will go in the car. Pics to follow


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

Rheinland Technik said:


> Main Filter Attaches to blower RC-3180 K&N Filter
> Secondary Filter for secondary air pump 62-1390 K&N Filter


:thumbup:


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Deckman.... I measured that bolt I have. Phil gave me a 5 incher .... but it needs more thread. Or it should be 4.75... its hard to explain via forum


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

euroguy666 said:


> Phil gave me a 5 incher .... but it needs more


 that's what she said? sorry, just had to do it :laugh:


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Haha perfecttt


----------



## rhussjr (Aug 7, 2000)

Cleaning up my hard drive and came across one of my old supercharger kits that I build many years ago.










V5 head unit



















One of the original bracket designs


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

I will be pulling this charger kit off of the Jetta today so that the owner can go back to stock and pay some billls. If anyone is interested, I will be posting it up soon and will have detaied pics of it' removal and all that is included.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)




----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

^^^ that yours? sexxxay!

if any corrado owners are looking for new control arms, I have a set with R32 rears and BFI graphite poly fronts for sale.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

That's mine. Motor wentt in a few hours ago!


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

I started mocking up my charger brackets on the 24V engine that I have for my Cabrio yesterday. I need to mount up the mock up charger and snap off a few pictures.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

parts for the new intake set up. Going full 4" to the charger.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

euroguy666 said:


>


siiiiiiiiick!


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

finally got the cabriolet back together, then broke the axel on my second pull after the tires were hot hahah. i have never seen one snap like this


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

^^^ Wow! Usually they break at a weld or the joint asplodes


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

My charger is sold, but I figured you guys might know this. My new setup uses an R32 throttle body on a short runner, thus no off the shelf intake works. The R32 TB an MAF are 3.25" OD. I found the right couplers, and I've hacked something together for now using the couplers and a stock R32 intake flex tube. 

I'm having a hell of a time finding an angled 3.25" tube. Whether it be an actual intake pipe, or just something that fits. Where do you guys find your parts?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Dr. E Brown said:


> My charger is sold, but I figured you guys might know this. My new setup uses an R32 throttle body on a short runner, thus no off the shelf intake works. The R32 TB an MAF are 3.25" OD. I found the right couplers, and I've hacked something together for now using the couplers and a stock R32 intake flex tube.
> 
> I'm having a hell of a time finding an angled 3.25" tube. Whether it be an actual intake pipe, or just something that fits. Where do you guys find your parts?


I just used a 3" tube and a 3" coupler. You can stretch a hump connector to work. Couplers can be found at Atp Turbo; Silicone Intakes. Happy hunting!!


----------



## eastsidelightning (Dec 5, 2007)

*hello*

whatsup, my name is mike . I own a 2003 jetta Gli 24v vr6. I supercharged it with VF stage 2 last year. this summer and fall i went through Jeff Atwood to tune my car,, and my mechanic also changed my pulley. I am still only boostin 8psi at redline with the 2.62 vortech pulley but am making alot of power! I want to boost more and make more power so what pulley should i go with next? reply on this or email me at [email protected]

thanks alot fellas


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

eastsidelightning said:


> whatsup, my name is mike . I own a 2003 jetta Gli 24v vr6. I supercharged it with VF stage 2 last year. this summer and fall i went through Jeff Atwood to tune my car,, and my mechanic also changed my pulley. I am still only boostin 8psi at redline with the 2.62 vortech pulley but am making alot of power! I want to boost more and make more power so what pulley should i go with next? reply on this or email me at [email protected]
> 
> thanks alot fellas


Not to be rude, but just read the damn thread. You will learn everything you could want! IMO!


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

just did a compression test on my '95 12v to find that 2 cylinders have low compression (110, 120) :banghead:
rather than doing a rebuild on a 200+k km motor, considering just to proceed as planned until it goes and drop in another from a passat or soemthing

Good idea to throw a blower on it? or am I just wasting my time


----------



## COUPE-VR6 (Nov 6, 2002)

sorry didn't search the whole thread, but is anyone running a blow off valve on a vortech v1, if so which one, and what do you think of it?


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

COUPE-VR6 said:


> sorry didn't search the whole thread, but is anyone running a blow off valve on a vortech v1, if so which one, and what do you think of it?


if you are running the maf before the charger a BOV will make it run like ****


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

man this thread has slowed down.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

websaabn said:


> if you are running the maf before the charger a BOV will make it run like ****


x2



littlenr said:


> man this thread has slowed down.


i know  hopefully itll pick up soon since spring is on its way


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

I talked a buddy into s/c his R32. So I'll have a project to do...:screwy:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

littlenr said:


> I talked a buddy into s/c his R32. So I'll have a project to do...:screwy:


:laugh: o'REALY!?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

DeckManDubs said:


> :laugh: o'REALY!?


Ya Vince. You've met him. The guy who has my old v9 is selling out. So Vince asked me some details and I'm pretty sure he is going to go for it.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Good for Vince!


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

DeckManDubs said:


> Good for Vince!


You ready to get started on some stuff for me? Week after next! :laugh:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

littlenr said:


> You ready to get started on some stuff for me? Week after next! :laugh:


Show me the money!!! :laugh:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

march 4th is that direct deposit date....


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

I've been busy with sand paper and polish








Satin finish will look ugly in my shaved bay...


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Oh and anyone running wideband? If so what one? And why


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

i run a AEM uego in both of my S/C cars, why... i herd a lot of good things about them.


----------



## 6vdubbin9 (Apr 18, 2004)

Anyone run the 3" catless header back from mandrel bending solutions? I just ordered one last night.:laugh:


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

how much did that set you back?


----------



## 6vdubbin9 (Apr 18, 2004)

crazysccrmd said:


> how much did that set you back?


430 was the final total. I upgraded from 400 for the accuseal exhaust clamps. Free shipping & comes with everything test pipe back. single magnaflow muffler.

On a n/a vr6 back to back runs it showed a 7whp gain going from a tt 2.5 cat back. looking forward to see if i notice a butt dyno difference up top going from a stock cat & diameter straight pipe.


----------



## eastsidelightning (Dec 5, 2007)

damn, people go out of their way just to talk smack. I was just asking a simple question. I went through this thread mad and couldnt find one thing that talked about pulley size on a 24v vr6 so if you got a 24v vr6 supercharged please let me know how much boost you run and what pulley on a v9 charger. 
Thanks :beer:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

eastsidelightning said:


> damn, people go out of their way just to talk smack. I was just asking a simple question. I went through this thread mad and couldnt find one thing that talked about pulley size on a 24v vr6 so if you got a 24v vr6 supercharged please let me know how much boost you run and what pulley on a v9 charger.
> Thanks :beer:


Pulleys are the same sizes for the 12v and 24v. I wouldn't go any smaller than a 2.65" pulley on a V9.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

i run a 2.62 on my R and get about 7 psi.... yep thats it. for a v9 charger i don't see any reason to run any pulley but a 2.62, it is not going to make too much boost in any case and it's about the smallest you want to go.


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

My 2.8 24v made 7psi (advertised 7.5-8) at the manifold on the VF Stage 2 pulley, which is a 2.75". This was only after switching to a Dayco belt that eliminated slip, on the VF belt it was lower.

The R32 Stage 2 kit has a larger pulley than the 2.8 24v Stage 2 for some reason, and is only intended to make 6psi.

The 2.62 should be making more than 7 assuming no belt slip.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

nope.... no belt slip, 7psi on a good day


----------



## eastsidelightning (Dec 5, 2007)

thanks guys much appreciated!:thumbup:


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

very odd...where do you have your boost gauge line tapped?  I'm wondering if there is some sort of pressure drop with the R32 since there is such a huge difference in diameter between the outlet of the V9, and the 3.2l throttle body. The 2.8l TB is significantly smaller.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

mine is tapped into the manifold.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

Dr. E Brown said:


> very odd...where do you have your boost gauge line tapped? I'm wondering if there is some sort of pressure drop with the R32 since there is such a huge difference in diameter between the outlet of the V9, and the 3.2l throttle body. The 2.8l TB is significantly smaller.


its a better flowing/bigger motor.


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

That makes sense, the differences in the head are amazing... Thus why I run one now :laugh:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

PSI is the resistance to flow. The R's intake system in much larger and better flowing than a 12v. Thus less resistance to flow, so lower PSI. In the end its all about the CFM and impeller speed not PSI. As long as there is positive pressure in the intake then you are better off. The reason you don't want to go any smaller than a 2.62" on a v9 is it will over spin the impeller and not move the air as well. It will displace the air and not force the air.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

6vdubbin9 said:


> Anyone run the 3" catless header back from mandrel bending solutions? I just ordered one last night.:laugh:


Larry ran a 3" I believe with a TT down pipe on his car. Gains were substantial if I remember correctly. Care to chime in Larry?


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

DeckManDubs said:


> Larry ran a 3" I believe with a TT down pipe on his car. Gains were substantial if I remember correctly. Care to chime in Larry?


i've been wanting to get a 3in system from the downpipe back for a while now. i would hope the car could make 320+whp with it on the same dyno. anyone know of any 3in catbacks that are less than $500?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

mk4vrjtta said:


> i've been wanting to get a 3in system from the downpipe back for a while now. i would hope the car could make 320+whp with it on the same dyno. anyone know of any 3in catbacks that are less than $500?


I think Schimmel might have one.


----------



## 6vdubbin9 (Apr 18, 2004)

mk4vrjtta said:


> i've been wanting to get a 3in system from the downpipe back for a while now. i would hope the car could make 320+whp with it on the same dyno. anyone know of any 3in catbacks that are less than $500?


mandrelbendingsolutions.com 

i just purchased one. full 3" header back. $400..mine was $430 with the better clamps. free shipping too. they offer an option for a high flow cat too if someone wanted. i went with the test pipe

was ordered fri..hoping to see it by thurs. already have the old cat & stock diameter straight pipe out. hoping to see a nice gain up top.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Anyone have any issues fitting their v1 or v2 in a mk3 bay? Esp the return line getting sandwiched between the frame rail and motor. Its dangerously close to the crank pulley too. Hmmmm


----------



## cabzilla (Jan 3, 2000)

6vdubbin9 said:


> Anyone run the 3" catless header back from mandrel bending solutions? I just ordered one last night.:laugh:






got mine on last night. sounds like sex.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

euroguy666 said:


> Anyone have any issues fitting their v1 or v2 in a mk3 bay? Esp the return line getting sandwiched between the frame rail and motor. Its dangerously close to the crank pulley too. Hmmmm


I cut a hole on the top of the rail and passed it through instead of messing with routing the return that close to the crank pulley.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Shaved and new paint in my bay.. not an option lol


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

KubotaPowered said:


> I cut a hole on the top of the rail and passed it through instead of messing with routing the return that close to the crank pulley.


I did this as well. Hole thru the frame rail!!


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Yeah that's what I've been hearing. I've seen shaved bay supercharged vr6 s before. Just never took notice to where the return was... contacted a few companies about making a longer braided line for me so I can try to route it a different way. This is such a pain. This car should have been closer to done by now


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

euroguy666 said:


> Yeah that's what I've been hearing. I've seen shaved bay supercharged vr6 s before. Just never took notice to where the return was... contacted a few companies about making a longer braided line for me so I can try to route it a different way. This is such a pain. This car should have been closer to done by now


good things take time.....:beer:


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

if routing through the rail like most, be sure to encase the hose w/ a protective cover. Thats not a roadside repair you'll want to deal with when it wears through. (ie engine movement, etc) 
Even a SS line will wear when rubbing metal & will also saw the body while doing so. 

An option for shaved bays/not passing through the frame rail is to use a partial hard line(like AC style hoses), The V1/2 also has the ability to move the drain nipple. I wouldnt recoomend a full 3 or 9 o'clock position as that leaves too much oil in the charger, but a 5 or 7 o'clock position is probably more than fine.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

CorradoMagic said:


> if routing through the rail like most, be sure to encase the hose w/ a protective cover. Thats not a roadside repair you'll want to deal with when it wears through. (ie engine movement, etc)
> Even a SS line will wear when rubbing metal & will also saw the body while doing so.
> 
> An option for shaved bays/not passing through the frame rail is to use a partial hard line(like AC style hoses), The V1/2 also has the ability to move the drain nipple. I wouldnt recoomend a full 3 or 9 o'clock position as that leaves too much oil in the charger, but a 5 or 7 o'clock position is probably more than fine.


Okay in that case you know where I can get somethig like that? I can prob get the elbow fitting but the lines I mean. Plus how do the fittings attach to the line? My idea was to get a long braided line made with the fittings on it and route it far away lol anyone know where I can get that made? I have an email into verdict and c2 disreguarded my question of just making a line and told me you have to cut the frame rail. Lol


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

euroguy666 said:


> Okay in that case you know where I can get somethig like that? I can prob get the elbow fitting but the lines I mean. Plus how do the fittings attach to the line? My idea was to get a long braided line made with the fittings on it and route it far away lol anyone know where I can get that made? I have an email into verdict and c2 disreguarded my question of just making a line and told me you have to cut the frame rail. Lol


any race shop will have the parts you need. Or you can go low tech and air hose fittings from Home Depot or Lowes.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Yeah. I've just never seen braided hose that big. The other stuff I can get... where im at there aren't many race shops lol. Well see how it goes.


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

Just take a whole bunch of measurements (good ones, use calipers for diameters) and order the stuff you need online. I got everything to redo my fuel system in steel braided line from summitracing. Prices were reasonable.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Yeah I just ordered fuel line from them along win other stuff. What id is vr fuel line at the rail? Making sure my research is correct


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

euroguy666 said:


> yeah i just ordered fuel line from them along win other stuff. What id is vr fuel line at the rail? Making sure my research is correct


O.D 8mm 
I.D 5mm


----------



## 6vdubbin9 (Apr 18, 2004)

cabzilla said:


> got mine on last night. sounds like sex.


mmm...cant wait. how long did it take to get yours? did they give you a tracking number?


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

I had a 3 inch catless system made up with mandrel bends over the axle, TT downpipes, ported head and collectors. With a smaller Magnaflow muffler on it, at higher revs, it sounds like a 1000cc bike running down the street. I also have the muffler v-banded so a straight pipe can go in its place...I don't recommend that though, it is ear splitting loud outside the car, total copmagnet but its fun on the track or screwing around


----------



## cabzilla (Jan 3, 2000)

6vdubbin9 said:


> mmm...cant wait. how long did it take to get yours? did they give you a tracking number?


Took about eight (5 business) days to get to me here in CA. I had to ask for the tracking. It sounds so good. Deep VR howl with some rasp. Once the turbo is on this car it will make sense.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Anyone know the id and od of the return lines normally on a v2? Im gonna make my own I guess


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

euroguy666 said:


> Anyone know the id and od of the return lines normally on a v2? Im gonna make my own I guess


For the drain/return line hose?
- depending on the nipple type used (threaded/barb, etc) a -8AN is what I used.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

i have a -8 on my v9 & v1.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

I have a -8 AN on my V2.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

.LSinLV. said:


> I have a -8 AN on my V2.


Vince been talking to you?


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

COUPE-VR6 said:


> sorry didn't search the whole thread, but is anyone running a blow off valve on a vortech v1, if so which one, and what do you think of it?


I was running a Greddy RS and it sucked. Now I have a Synapse in the box waiting to go on. I'll report back on that sometime. Of course I'm running standalone and don't use an MAF. You could always run a better DV. The Synapse has an adapter to run as a DV, or you can get an anti-stall kit to run w/ a MAF.



euroguy666 said:


> Oh and anyone running wideband? If so what one? And why


I'm using an LC-1 and it seems to be doing fine. I got it for the price and simplicity even though I saw mixed reviews. However, the MS community seems to like them.


On a side note, I'm going to do bearings and seals very soon. I've hunted for info on bearings since I'm wanting to step down the pulley size. Here's a LINK to a Google doc xls of the info I've compiled for V1/V2 chargers. If interested, take a look and see if anything seems askew or if you have anything you want to add. Also, please chine in on places to source these parts. I went to my local Fastenal, but they couldn't help me. I know superchargerrebuild.com and 928motorsports.com are sources, but there's gotta be a better place to buy these. $425 for the high speed kit just kills me...


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

lotar_6 said:


> I was running a Greddy RS and it sucked. Now I have a Synapse in the box waiting to go on. I'll report back on that sometime. Of course I'm running standalone and don't use an MAF. You could always run a better DV. The Synapse has an adapter to run as a DV, or you can get an anti-stall kit to run w/ a MAF.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Kyle, glad to see your still around these parts :beer:


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

DeckManDubs said:


> Kyle, glad to see your still around these parts :beer:


 Thanks, Noah! yeah... winter hiatus. still don't have the garage insulated. can't...... find........ motivation.......

btw, what's the stock crank pulley size again? how do I forget these things?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

lotar_6 said:


> btw, what's the stock crank pulley size again? how do I forget these things?


I believe it is 5.5"


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

I had 6.5" in my head... aaarrrgghh


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

lotar_6 said:


> Thanks, Noah! yeah... winter hiatus. still don't have the garage insulated. can't...... find........ motivation.......
> 
> btw, what's the stock crank pulley size again? how do I forget these things?


5.4"


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

DeckManDubs said:


> 5.4"


damn I was close. You get my message?


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

littlenr said:


> Vince been talking to you?


:thumbup: yes. I will be sending him pics of the set up this weekend.

thanks nate


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

littlenr said:


> damn I was close. You get my message?


Got it :thumbup:


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

I think this is my last question for a bit. The 3 holes for the oil drain on the blower. What AN size is that? Still -8AN?


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

measure the hole, a -8an is 1/2 (8/16), a -10an would be 5/8 (10/16)


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Will do! Thanks


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

New SRI & 12 PSI pully


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Dunkfan914 said:


> New SRI & 12 PSI pully


OBD 1 fuel rail? Looks good. flip the coil pack over. That will hide the harness plug. :thumbup:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Before:










After:


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

littlenr said:


> OBD 1 fuel rail? Looks good. flip the coil pack over. That will hide the harness plug. :thumbup:


Thanks, 

Yes its a OBD 1 fuel rail, the coill pack flip looks great. Now on my things to do list 

I am having some issues with the car right now, I think I might have gotten the MAF sensor wet and my car is running like crap the idling was okay yesterday morning & now since then its jumping from 8-10 i also have a ton of belt slip at top end. :banghead:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Dunkfan914 said:


> Thanks,
> 
> Yes its a OBD 1 fuel rail, the coill pack flip looks great. Now on my things to do list
> 
> I am having some issues with the car right now, I think I might have gotten the MAF sensor wet and my car is running like crap the idling was okay yesterday morning & now since then its jumping from 8-10 i also have a ton of belt slip at top end. :banghead:


Just remember to plug the correct plug wire in the correct spot on the coil pack. Everything flips around. 

Unplug the maf. Start it then. See if it still does the same thing, or read the codes first and clear them. The maf has the intake temp sensor on it also. Either one gets wet and the car will run shotty!


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

Looking good Andy! Did Greg make the manifold?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

MeCarTay said:


> Looking good Andy! Did Greg make the manifold?


Send me some stickers with my parts. :laugh::laugh:


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

MeCarTay said:


> Looking good Andy! Did Greg make the manifold?


Yes he did :thumbup:

Just an idea - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...a-12v-VR6-with-EXTRAS&p=70391912#post70391912

I would like a turbo set up =D


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Come onnnnnnn piping


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Oh and just for reference on the thread, the oil return is 3/8 npt at the blower. Found out the hard way.


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

Looking good  , question for you guys. 

I went through a puddle two days ago, when it was pouring  soaked up MAF sensor. so i unplugged it car runs better than it did when the MAF wasnt wet LOL. How bad is it to run w this sensor unplugged. 

Sorry for my ignorance  Im going to the dark side soon :wave:


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

If it runs it runs... a wideband would be a good peice of mind tho


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

Try cleaning the sensor.

It's not that "bad" to run with the sensor unplugged for the time being. The ECU will probably just go to the rich side for safety, so you will get ****ty gas mileage.


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

Okay good to know thanks for the help.

BTW you ever get your charger sold ?


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

Mine? Yes, the kit is sold, it's still sitting here all packed up though. The buyer didn't have all the funds on hand yet, so he paid half as a deposit. He wanted mine because of the low miles, a lot of the 24v/R32 kits that are popping up lately are sketchy/incomplete. It will be going on an R32 with UM software :thumbup:


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

Dr. E Brown said:


> Mine? Yes, the kit is sold, it's still sitting here all packed up though. The buyer didn't have all the funds on hand yet, so he paid half as a deposit. He wanted mine because of the low miles, a lot of the 24v/R32 kits that are popping up lately are sketchy/incomplete. It will be going on an R32 with UM software :thumbup:


Thats good to see, i just put mine up with 7k on a eariler version v9 with abec 9 bearings i as well run UM


----------



## mushroom_curry (Apr 21, 2004)

Can someone change the damn thread title to read supercha*r*ged instead of superchaged?

Great resource that's otherwise impossible to search up.


----------



## KeyDub (Jul 11, 2004)

mushroom_curry said:


> Can someone change the damn thread title to read supercha*r*ged instead of superchaged?
> 
> Great resource that's otherwise impossible to search up.


Maybe the guy that started the thread is from Bosston?:screwy:


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

KeyDub said:


> Maybe the guy that started the thread is from Bosston?:screwy:


:laugh:


----------



## mushroom_curry (Apr 21, 2004)

Hahahaha

HAiii check out that superchyaagd Jetter.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Had a mod fix it :thumbup:


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

KeyDub said:


> Maybe the guy that started the thread is from Bosston?:screwy:


 Hahaha unfortunately there's not many of us M*******s, and BTW its Bauston :laugh:


----------



## KeyDub (Jul 11, 2004)

MeCarTay said:


> Hahaha unfortunately there's not many of us M*******s, and BTW its Bauston :laugh:


 Touche, Phil, you know its all love...:heart::thumbup:


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

lol... it only took 3,600 posts to get the thread title changed! 

So I have a question about the output bearings. I asked 928 about their bearings, and rightly so they didn't tell me anything about them. However, I asked about ABEC7 bearings and the speed rating of theirs. I was told that the 928 bearings are not ABEC7 rated, because the tolerances are to tight to allow for expansion. So if we go ABEC7 or higher, we must use ceramic correct? This will negate the expansion issue? 

Also, info I've dug up on the recommended bearings ususally indicate they are 15˚ anglular. I found no info on some and a couple sets with all the same specs but they are 25˚ cut... this would put more of the stress on a thinner part of the bearing walls, right? Is there info about the charger design that would confirm or refute the 15˚ info? I wouldn't care much, but at 1/2 the lowest price I could find, it makes me want to find out for sure. My web reference trail for recommended bearing numbers ends in threads like this, not documented resources. 

tia, y'all!! 

oh, and people looking for charger fitting sizes, the info is contained on the parts lists for the charger kits right on Vortech's site. Just check in the oil feed/return sections. 

:beer:


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

lotar_6 said:


> lol... it only took 3,600 posts to get the thread title changed!
> 
> So I have a question about the output bearings. I asked 928 about their bearings, and rightly so they didn't tell me anything about them. However, I asked about ABEC7 bearings and the speed rating of theirs. I was told that the 928 bearings are not ABEC7 rated, because the tolerances are to tight to allow for expansion. So if we go ABEC7 or higher, we must use ceramic correct? This will negate the expansion issue?
> 
> ...


 
hort answer. No. I never used anything more than ABEC 7, but there are better bearings out there that are ABEC 5 rated. remember, the ABEC rating is more for tolerance rather than strength ot the ability to manage bearing speed. 

:thumbup:


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

.LSinLV. said:


> hort answer. No. I never used anything more than ABEC 7, but there are better bearings out there that are ABEC 5 rated. remember, the ABEC rating is more for tolerance rather than strength ot the ability to manage bearing speed.
> 
> :thumbup:


 thanks! I gathered that from my research, too. 928 has a great price on bearings... but I want to go w/ a smaller pulley. If they use bearings spec'd by Vortech, then I'm sceered. I've found some higher speed rated ceramic bearings in ABEC 5 & 7, but at a cost. Most curious now about the contact angle and if the range from 15˚ to 25˚ is safe in this app.. I also found the Fafnir bearings are spec'd at 20˚. *sigh*


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

KeyDub said:


> Touche, Phil, you know its all love...:heart::thumbup:


 I can't believe Vortex blocks out m_a_s_s_h_o_l_e. How else are we suppose to be known from state to state?! :laugh:


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

When you guys have the intake pipe off the intake side of the blower with a 4in maf, what size piping do you normally use? Do u go like 2.75 and use a step up coupler for the 4in maf? Or just go 4in the whole way? And do u want you dv close to the tb? My buddy is making me all custom piping... should be a good time.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Oh and also what size pipe do you normally use for intercooler piping? He's doing that aswell.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

I have used 3" intake pipe with step up couplers for the charger inlet and the maf housing. The intercooler pipes should not be any larger than 2.5". Also the I've put my dv between the charger and the intercooler.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Ahhh that sounds good... if im not running higher boost should I go a bit smaller ic piping? Im assuming it would help get the max psi to the tb and manifold quicker? I plan on having Schimmel build me a low comp motor after the summer and ill be running more boost


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

Hey all, 

Seems like my issues with the supercharger are never ending. So I have my MAF out from the last rain storm I hlvnt plugged it back in yet due to the fact I think it's still wet but I will at some point today. Anyway my car is acting funny besides that the charger is very squeaky I think a pulley on it might be bad ? Also anything passed 4k getting on it the car sounds like it has a BOV. ???


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Dunkfan914 said:


> Hey all,
> 
> Seems like my issues with the supercharger are never ending. So I have my MAF out from the last rain storm I hlvnt plugged it back in yet due to the fact I think it's still wet but I will at some point today. Anyway my car is acting funny besides that the charger is very squeaky I think a pulley on it might be bad ? Also anything passed 4k getting on it the car sounds like it has a BOV. ???


 check all of your joints. Sounds like a coupler has come loose. IS it down on power a lot?


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

Thanks nate always a help  Its not down on power too bad but it deff feels like it could use a kick in the ass. I will check for that in the morning. It prlby time to plug back in the MAF sensor huh


----------



## Jason Davis (Feb 7, 2011)

What's the size of the fitting going back into the oil pan from the blower? if someone could should me a pm that'd really help me out! I bottomed out hardcore on the highway and banged up the pan and pump and need to retap the new pan


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Jason Davis said:


> What's the size of the fitting going back into the oil pan from the blower? if someone could should me a pm that'd really help me out! I bottomed out hardcore on the highway and banged up the pan and pump and need to retap the new pan


 look back a few pages. its there!!


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Lol just went thru this with me...made my own return line... the fitting that comes win most kits is ( at the blower) 3/8 npt into the blower then on the other side of it is -8an all the way to the pan


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

yesterday after instaling new trans with peloquin and new fuel pump walbro 255 I saw on boost gauge 10psi on red line :what: 

2.75 pulley


----------



## 07Blanch (Sep 1, 2007)

Hey everyone! Just wanted to say I have successfully read all 104 pages of this thread!! :beer: I wish I had before I decided to buy a VF Stage 2 kit for my R32. I would have hunted around for a V1/V2 but that's besides the point hahaha 

I've learned an enormous amount of information throughout this thread and have made many notes to myself to help with my install. Thank you guys for all the time/testing you have put into your setups along the way. It will make my life easier and I appreciate it. 

I started my install this past weekend and hopefully will not have too many questions for all of you, but it's good to know that if I do I can come here and ask. I look forward to reading about everyone's setups and will be sure to post some pics when I am finished!


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

07Blanch said:


> Hey everyone! Just wanted to say I have successfully read all 104 pages of this thread!! :beer: I wish I had before I decided to buy a VF Stage 2 kit for my R32. I would have hunted around for a V1/V2 but that's besides the point hahaha
> 
> I've learned an enormous amount of information throughout this thread and have made many notes to myself to help with my install. Thank you guys for all the time/testing you have put into your setups along the way. It will make my life easier and I appreciate it.
> 
> I started my install this past weekend and hopefully will not have too many questions for all of you, but it's good to know that if I do I can come here and ask. I look forward to reading about everyone's setups and will be sure to post some pics when I am finished!


 
opcorn:, please let us know.


----------



## Jason Davis (Feb 7, 2011)

euroguy666 said:


> Lol just went thru this with me...made my own return line... the fitting that comes win most kits is ( at the blower) 3/8 npt into the blower then on the other side of it is -8an all the way to the pan


 Thanks man:thumbup:


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

So far I put billet ATP log manifold back on with the fuel rail and the adjustable FPR. So at some point soon all I need to do is mount the charger and swap the injectors and the chip. Just wish there was better options for chip tuning. It may be a few weeks before I am ready to remount the charger. I also still want to replace the impeller side seal but for the love of god I can not get the bolt to break loose. 

I did find a couple cool things in the last few months. If your having belt slip or MAF issues take a look into these to companies. 

http://www.carbiniteracing.com/ They make a pretty dam cool non slip pulley. They can also coat pulleys. 

http://www.saxonpc.com/100mm-cells-for-100.html These work well for helping the MAF get a good clean signal.


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

Scooter98144 said:


> So far I put billet ATP log manifold back on with the fuel rail and the adjustable FPR. So at some point soon all I need to do is mount the charger and swap the injectors and the chip. Just wish there was better options for chip tuning. It may be a few weeks before I am ready to remount the charger. I also still want to replace the impeller side seal but for the love of god I can not get the bolt to break loose.
> 
> I did find a couple cool things in the last few months. If your having belt slip or MAF issues take a look into these to companies.
> 
> ...


 


both have been posted before in this thread.....thanks though.


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

Well thanks for re-posting the re-posted info. Your post to my post is very helpfull.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

No problem! The search option sucks on vortex. Hard to get a def answer


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

Scooter98144 said:


> Well thanks for re-posting the re-posted info. Your post to my post is very helpfull.


 Just letting you know because if you read the 100+ pages, you would have seen them. 

Sorry for my "useful" post. 

Good luck with your project.


----------



## bmxdarcy (Mar 7, 2006)

where did the extra idler mount in this kit. i bought a V1 that came with this bracket kit.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

bmxdarcy said:


> where did the extra idler mount in this kit. i bought a V1 that came with this bracket kit.


 on the charger side of the alternator! The pulley goes above the alternator pulley, which fits thru the hole!


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Speaking of idlers and such... anyone have a picture of how they ran their belt? Im gonna try to do that today maybe


----------



## Justin 123 (Apr 11, 2005)

I did not receive the T fitting that threads into the filter housing with my VF kit. I contacted VF and they will sell the fitting for $75. Before I shell that out, I was wondering if anyone knows of a suitable replacement. I would be open to using a straight adapter and eliminate the oil temp sensor if needed. I know the threaded hole on the filter housing is M10. Does anyone know the thread size of the oil feed line? -4AN? 

This piece would be perfect: http://www.verdictmotorsports.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=0122 

But they no longer produce it and I got no reply when asking about the thread sizes. 

Thanks for the assistance.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

I used a glow shift fitting... that the brand name. Its a 4 port instead of the 3... but it comes with a block off for one end.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

So as I am seeing... not many mk3 owners go intercooled? Air to air I mean... and if they do they clock the charger upside down? I need a few ideas... me and my buddy are building piping but this almost seems like its more work than needed


----------



## Justin 123 (Apr 11, 2005)

euroguy666 said:


> I used a glow shift fitting... that the brand name. Its a 4 port instead of the 3... but it comes with a block off for one end.


 I've looked around their site, but can't seem to find it.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Then check kinetic they had a t fitting. Just google it


----------



## Justin 123 (Apr 11, 2005)

Justin 123 said:


> I did not receive the T fitting that threads into the filter housing with my VF kit. I contacted VF and they will sell the fitting for $75. Before I shell that out, I was wondering if anyone knows of a suitable replacement. I would be open to using a straight adapter and eliminate the oil temp sensor if needed. I know the threaded hole on the filter housing is M10. Does anyone know the thread size of the oil feed line? -4AN?
> 
> This piece would be perfect: http://www.verdictmotorsports.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=0122
> 
> ...



For future reference in case someone is wondering, I used this:

http://store.42draftdesigns.com/VDO-M10x1-Male-T-Adaptor_p_94.html










and this:

http://store.42draftdesigns.com/M10x1-Male--4AN-Male-Adaptor_p_356.html


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

Justin 123 said:


> I did not receive the T fitting that threads into the filter housing with my VF kit. I contacted VF and they will sell the fitting for $75. Before I shell that out, I was wondering if anyone knows of a suitable replacement. I would be open to using a straight adapter and eliminate the oil temp sensor if needed. I know the threaded hole on the filter housing is M10. Does anyone know the thread size of the oil feed line? -4AN?
> 
> This piece would be perfect: http://www.verdictmotorsports.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=0122
> 
> ...


$15 VDO T-adapter at JEGS... LINK BUT, 42DD rocks!!!










They are also good for adapters n' such. I'm not sure about the feedline size since I had mine made for me and it wasn't part of a kit. Maybe take the line to a plumbing store (a good local one) and heve them size it for you. GL!!!


----------



## Justin 123 (Apr 11, 2005)

That's exactly what I bought, except I paid less money from a better company 

42ddftw


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

i used one of these on my car also worked well.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

sitting here twiddling my fingers... 4 weeks to get stuff put on the car and 2 weeks to get it tuned and 1 week to drive it as a shake down. then road trip for 8hrs. I'm starting to get worried its not going to happen.


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

where ya heading? sounds like you could make it to chicago in that amount of time from cinci...


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

2PointGoGoGo said:


> where ya heading? sounds like you could make it to chicago in that amount of time from cinci...


Chi town is only 5-6 hrs from Cincy. I'm heading to Southern Worthersee in GA.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

littlenr said:


> Chi town is only 5-6 hrs from Cincy. I'm heading to Southern Worthersee in GA.


Ill be there. Prob in an all road tho.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

i will most likely be there aswell... but i think i am taking my BT TDI


----------



## 07Blanch (Sep 1, 2007)

Just an update!

I've got most of the s/c kit installed! I have the charger in and most of the tubing installed except for the tube that connects to the TB. I am still waiting on my low-temp thermostat and fan switch to arrive before I can install that.

In the meantime I an working on relocating my power steering cooler and toying with the idea of deleting the stock on altogether in favor of a smaller aftermarket one. I was thinking about mounting it behind the bumper on the driver's side. If anyone has any info/link to some small coolers I'd appreciate it :thumbup:


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

What year/model car do you have? I wasn't aware that any VWs had a power steering cooler.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

my 04 R32 had a ps coler


----------



## 07Blanch (Sep 1, 2007)

It's an '04 R32. The stock power steering cooler is a pretty bad design but I might just relocate it for now and wait until next winter for the aftermarket one.


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

That's cool, never knew they came with those. :thumbup:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

I use one off a NB so that my fluid bottle is on the driver side!


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

$100 shipped obo for my 2.75" pulley. Check my sig for link. Trying to fund brakes for my build. Help a brotha out :laugh:


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

What boost is that on a v2? 10psi?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

euroguy666 said:


> What boost is that on a v2? 10psi?


Between 8 and 10psi.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Hmmm tempting. Ill get back to ya later today after work. Can I get a picture to my email? [email protected]


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

euroguy666 said:


> Hmmm tempting. Ill get back to ya later today after work. Can I get a picture to my email? [email protected]


yes.

and also:


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

littlenr said:


> Between 8 and 10psi.


it should be more then that, i was hitting 12-14 psi with a 2.87 on my old v2


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

See that's what I thought too. From what I understand psi depends on how free flowing exhaust u have with superchargers plus ic piping will drop psi as well too


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

Keep in mind the same sized pulley from a V1, V2 or V3 to a V9 for example won't operate at the same boost level. Another one people often overlook is the compression ratio which really has the largest effect on raising or lowering the boost without changing pulley sizing. Charge pipe length and overall ID will also alter manifold pressure. 

Remember.. boost is a measure of resistance.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

This is the truth. I figured the v1 and v2 are basically the same blower minus straight cut gears and a few cfm difference. I know the v9 is a totally different ball game. And I just assume most guys have stock 10:1 otherwise they would mention that lol


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

so, euroguy, didn't hear from you. You want this thing?


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Oh **** sorry I totally forgot. Its an 8 rib pulley? I have a stock setup. 8 rib is a bit wide for me. Worried it would hit my fuel rail


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

it has been machined so that there will be no clearance issues. check the one pic with the silver backing, that's the side that has been machined. I was running this with the VF idler and had it machined so that it would clear that. the idler comes out farther than anything else. this thing will clear, I promise.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Okay well what compression ratio were you at getting 8-10 psi? That's the most I wanna make for now


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

euroguy666 said:


> Okay well what compression ratio were you at getting 8-10 psi? That's the most I wanna make for now


stock 10:1


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

euroguy666 said:


> See that's what I thought too. From what I understand psi depends on how free flowing exhaust u have with superchargers plus ic piping will drop psi as well too


yea that was with full 3 inch exhaust, ported manifolds, dual 2 inch dp, schrick 268 cams, no IC( w/m kit), 10.5:1 comp, and a 4ft long inlet pipe before the charger:thumbup:


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

So, I know somewhere in here I read that the TT down pipes make the car run a little rich due to the placement of the front o2 sensor. but, for some reason I can't find those post. so I am just a little curious what you guys have been doing to resolve this issue? Thanks!:thumbup:


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

did you spray that intake manifold yourself? with truck bed liner spray? looks great, along the lines of what i want to do with mine


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

yeah its an old EIP 2.9 clone that was looking a little ratty so I got some Krylon wrinkle paint, scuffed her up and laid down some primer and 3 coats of the wrinkle. Thanks though, I love how well it turned out.:thumbup:


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

2PointGoGoGo said:


> So, I know somewhere in here I read that the TT down pipes make the car run a little rich due to the placement of the front o2 sensor. but, for some reason I can't find those post. so I am just a little curious what you guys have been doing to resolve this issue? Thanks!:thumbup:


it really shoudnt matter where your o2 sensor is at, as long as there are no leaks it should be reading the correct ratio.


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

Ok, just checkin. Thought I read something about the placement was causing a lot of guys to run rich and get horrible gas mileage (well worse then before) and that most of them were slightly spacing it out a bit...

Oh well it saves me the hassle of doing it then.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

309whp/262wtq
1997 Jetta GLX
3.0 liter
Vortech V1
Wiseco 9:1 forged pistons
MKIV HG
Eagle forged rods
DRC268 cams
Autotech valve springs
Lightweight lifters
Crank scraper
C2 42lb software and green top injectors
Verdict 14psi pulley
Snow water/meth
non intercooled
TT downpipes
3 inch exhaust

I suck at the internetz and cannot make the dyno plot larger


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Nice #'s welcome to the "300 Club" !!!


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

9:1 compression for 3L?
Or is 10-10.5 a little too high to make 300+ reliably


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

KubotaPowered said:


> 309whp/262wtq
> 1997 Jetta GLX
> 3.0 liter
> Vortech V1
> ...


Are you running dual idler? Or cogged? From what I understand at that boost level you get pretty good belt slip


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

prometheus_ said:


> 9:1 compression for 3L?
> Or is 10-10.5 a little too high to make 300+ reliably


With the mk4 HG thrown in there he should be around 9.5:1 I think. Regardless, you can make 350whp on stock compression (I've done it, turbocharged).


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

It's about 9.5:1 with the MKIV headgasket. I've tried a dual idler and it causes more slip. This is a shorter belt with the single idler, its about the shortest you can get on with AC and PS. The shorter belt keeps the blower from having to swing way up to take up the slack.


----------



## Flyweight (Jan 15, 2007)

Wow. That is on a Mustang dyno too! Well done!


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Once my hardware shows up I'll send some dyno plots! I should be well past 300....


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

Thanks! I posted up in the 12v forum but maybe I will have some luck in here. That same car has intermittent stalling and bad idle problems. Its very random and comes and goes as it pleases. There are no codes whatsoever and the dyno shows how well it's running. The idle will drop so low it will stall but just before doing so it blows a bunch of smoke (fuel) until it dies. The TB has been swapped, so have the coolant temp sensor and FPR, plugs and wires are all in good shape, what's next? It can happen 3 or 4 times a day or you can drive it for a week and not have any issues. Ideas?


----------



## Beef Booze (Sep 25, 2010)

how would a lightweight flywheel affect the day to day driving of a supercharged vr6. The car has a stage 1 kit. I have the flywheel and had to pull the engine and was thinking about just throwing it on while it was apart. But was thinking about the daily drivers drivability. 

The inertia for the light fly wheel would mean it would spool up fast to 4k rpm where the SC kicks in, but what about when I took my foot off the gas? It should rev down much fast without the added inertia. Any thoughts or experience? And would any pro's be outweighted by the con's?

I made a seperate post for this question and all i got was turbo people telling me to get a turbo....REALLY? They act like their in somekind of religious cult and need to recruit members.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Beef Booze said:


> how would a lightweight flywheel affect the day to day driving of a supercharged vr6. The car has a stage 1 kit. I have the flywheel and had to pull the engine and was thinking about just throwing it on while it was apart. But was thinking about the daily drivers drivability.
> 
> The inertia for the light fly wheel would mean it would spool up fast to 4k rpm where the SC kicks in, but what about when I took my foot off the gas? It should rev down much fast without the added inertia. Any thoughts or experience? And would any pro's be outweighted by the con's?
> 
> I made a seperate post for this question and all i got was turbo people telling me to get a turbo....REALLY? They act like their in somekind of religious cult and need to recruit members.


The charger will help keep things spinning. I have a 10lb flywheel and don't really notice its there.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

Beef Booze said:


> how would a lightweight flywheel affect the day to day driving of a supercharged vr6. The car has a stage 1 kit. I have the flywheel and had to pull the engine and was thinking about just throwing it on while it was apart. But was thinking about the daily drivers drivability.
> 
> The inertia for the light fly wheel would mean it would spool up fast to 4k rpm where the SC kicks in, but what about when I took my foot off the gas? It should rev down much fast without the added inertia. Any thoughts or experience? And would any pro's be outweighted by the con's?
> 
> I made a seperate post for this question and all i got was turbo people telling me to get a turbo....REALLY? They act like their in somekind of religious cult and need to recruit members.


As you can see with numbers I posted, on the blower you can surpass stage 1 turbo kits and even stage 2 turbo kits on the market, provided you use a V1 or V2. Lightweight flywheels will work well in these applications, like he stated, I don't notice its there. Sometimes I can barely hear the gears in the trans making some noise but you really have to strain to hear them especially over the loud ass supercharger. I vote SC for daily driving, less heat, more fun, more traction.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

KubotaPowered said:


> Thanks! I posted up in the 12v forum but maybe I will have some luck in here. That same car has intermittent stalling and bad idle problems. Its very random and comes and goes as it pleases. There are no codes whatsoever and the dyno shows how well it's running. The idle will drop so low it will stall but just before doing so it blows a bunch of smoke (fuel) until it dies. The TB has been swapped, so have the coolant temp sensor and FPR, plugs and wires are all in good shape, what's next? It can happen 3 or 4 times a day or you can drive it for a week and not have any issues. Ideas?


C2 software?


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

DeckManDubs said:


> C2 software?


PM sent


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

KubotaPowered said:


> PM sent


 :thumbup:


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

*Charger back and running but with issues.*

Well so far even with a worn belt it is just a lot of fun. But C2's OBD1 chip just seems to never run well. Just parked in the driveway it will idle at 800 rpm. But then it will just move up and down going rich and lean for no reason. 

At very light throttle driving it will buck and kick. Going pig rich and lean back and forth. Yet if I just HAMMER the throttle it ****ing halls ass. 0-60 in under a block hehe the neighbors hate me I am sure.

Then for no reason as I slow down it will just die.?

My only guess is standalone of some kind.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Scooter98144 said:


> Well so far even with a worn belt it is just a lot of fun. But C2's OBD1 chip just seems to never run well. Just parked in the driveway it will idle at 800 rpm. But then it will just move up and down going rich and lean for no reason.
> 
> At very light throttle driving it will buck and kick. Going pig rich and lean back and forth. Yet if I just HAMMER the throttle it ****ing halls ass. 0-60 in under a block hehe the neighbors hate me I am sure.
> 
> ...


As stated about a million times in this thread check your distance between the charger and the maf. To me it sounds like the turbulence issues that most people have.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Scooter98144 said:


> Well so far even with a worn belt it is just a lot of fun. But C2's OBD1 chip just seems to never run well. Just parked in the driveway it will idle at 800 rpm. But then it will just move up and down going rich and lean for no reason.
> 
> At very light throttle driving it will buck and kick. Going pig rich and lean back and forth. Yet if I just HAMMER the throttle it ****ing halls ass. 0-60 in under a block hehe the neighbors hate me I am sure.
> 
> ...


C2 + blower issue. Been battling it for four years now. Only way to get around it is to go standalone.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

Standalone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

I wanna go stand alone as well. Easier than messing with tunes and bullsht wire tucks lol


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

obdONE said:


> Standalone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Don't invite trouble over here, the other thread is already silly :laugh::laugh::laugh:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

KubotaPowered said:


> Don't invite trouble over here, the other thread is already silly :laugh::laugh::laugh:


lol, tell me about it


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

> which thread? Have I been gone for too long?



nevermind, I see it. 17 pages, huh? Not falling into that trap...


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

Beef Booze said:


> i bought a used 2000 glx SC and it cam a spare SC pulley thats smaller than the one bolted on. The PO said he could get any info on the proper size belt to fit the smaller pulley. Any ideas?


whats the pulley size?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

can't wait any longer for my parts!!!!


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

So I fixed some of the issues. Turns out I had the ISV backwards and it would not idle right like that. I am going to add a







After the MAF as well as the one before the MAF to see if it helps at all. If I could fix the idle and the mild bucking at 20hg vacuum it would be running pretty dam well. I have a Dayco 61.5" 7rib on the way as well. The worn belt is slipping when I hit about 6psi of boost.


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

DeckManDubs said:


> C2 + blower issue. Been battling it for four years now. Only way to get around it is to go standalone.





obdONE said:


> Standalone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!





euroguy666 said:


> I wanna go stand alone as well. Easier than messing with tunes and bullsht wire tucks lol


:thumbup:

ftw.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Anyone wanna steer im in the right direction with standalone? Started to look into it but its kinda confusing lol


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

For standalone I was leaning to the one that is plug and play into my current harness.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Scooter98144 said:


> For standalone I was leaning to the one that is plug and play into my current harness.


Yeah im not doing that bc I wanna kill two birds with one stone, wire tuck and standalone.


----------



## jettaglis (Nov 9, 2006)

theres a used stage 2 vf kit from a 2001 12v that i found, would that kit fit a 24v with maybe a different s/c bracket?
I know next to nothing about superchargers and forgive me if that is a really stupid question.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

jettaglis said:


> theres a used stage 2 vf kit from a 2001 12v that i found, would that kit fit a 24v with maybe a different s/c bracket?
> I know next to nothing about superchargers and forgive me if that is a really stupid question.


as the hardware goes it will bolt right up. Software is a different story!


----------



## jettaglis (Nov 9, 2006)

> as the hardware goes it will bolt right up. Software is a different story!


sweet that is what i was hoping for... standalone is out of the question, so is UM the only "good" software.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I've been looking around some Ford boards and I'm wondering why nobody runs, or afaik tried, to run a V7. The JT trim are CCW and typically straight discharge. I mean I know they aren't cheap and would probably require a good bit of work, but I've seen hear of crazier things done.

*Max Speed: 60000 RPM
Max Boost: 27 PSI
Max Flow: 1450 CFM
Max Power: 1000 HP
Peak Efficiency: 75%

Discharge OD: 3"
Inlet OD: 4"
Discharge ID: 2.64"
Inducer Diameter: 3.486"​*
Are they too big?
I imagine that these would be much much better suited than the V1/2s because you get that headroom up top without overworking the charger.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

I think just because of the size, they are pretty big and the V1/V2 is a tight fit as is.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

My buddy just got a kit for his 08 mustang and it uses a novi 2200. Thing is massive compared to ours. It would never fit inbetween the block and inside our fender well. It would prob hit the frame rail too. And he runs the self lubed unit. Otherwise that unit is identical from paxton


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

> V7 Larger gears and housing but with the V1/2/3 mounting footprint


Looks to be about a bit less than an inch bigger all around.
I wonder.....:sly:


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

... i have been saying it for a while now, i am most likely going to run a v7 or a v4 on the vr6 in my lotus:laugh: but thats going to be a while until its done


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Time to do some sleuthing.
The extra cost is a fair bit to be sure, and you're pretty much REQUIRED to lower compression & run cogs.

Perhaps I'll stick my V1 plans and use a V7 as an inevitable upgrade :facepalm:

Just imagine;
- more boost
- not having to worry about impeller speeds
- making 300whp with ease on 12v 
- 9.5:1, meth, 268s, s2 header, exhaust, & a proper tune pushing 16psi or something


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

prometheus_ said:


> Time to do some sleuthing.
> The extra cost is a fair bit to be sure, and you're pretty much REQUIRED to lower compression & run cogs.
> 
> Perhaps I'll stick my V1 plans and use a V7 as an inevitable upgrade :facepalm:
> ...




That is my plan with a cogged V1-t trim. As of right now the V1 barely fits with axillary drive. I don't see how a V7 would fit at all in the mk4.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Mk4 may be impossible, but a mk3 on the other hand...
like I said, will probably charge ahead and go v1 with supporting mods and keep an eye out for a v7

After all, who doesn't like a good comparison chart


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

prometheus_ said:


> Mk4 may be impossible, but a mk3 on the other hand...
> like I said, will probably charge ahead and go v1 with supporting mods and keep an eye out for a v7
> 
> After all, who doesn't like a good comparison chart


----------



## KeyDub (Jul 11, 2004)

prometheus_ said:


> Mk4 may be impossible, but a mk3 on the other hand...
> like I said, will probably charge ahead and go v1 with supporting mods and keep an eye out for a v7
> 
> After all, who doesn't like a good comparison chart


I believe you can get the same results upgrading to a 928 Motorsports impeller. some guys have seen a 20% increase with just this mod, which would put the V1 T-Trim numbers spot on for a V-7. cheaper and a tad less work

just my .02:beer:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Will see, I think .6 of an inch can be found 
once I've got my own ball rolling I can always make a rough model based on those dimensions


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

prometheus_ said:


> Will see, I think .6 of an inch can be found
> once I've got my own ball rolling I can always make a rough model based on those dimensions


send me a V7 and I'll test fit it for you.....:laugh:


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

prometheus_ said:


> - making 300whp with ease on 12v


I got more than that with a simple $200 bolt on upgrade.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

obdONE said:


> I got more than that with a simple $200 bolt on upgrade.


oh rry?
now imagine that $200 bolt on with a charger that won't be screaming for (as much) mercy 

As for the impeller upgrade.
Thats pretty interesting, I've never read anything about such a thing :what::thumbup:


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

don't mind me. I'm just poking the bear.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

I can tell you that right now, the V1 is already hitting the backside of the Hella e-codes that are in the MK3.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

prometheus_ said:


> Mk4 may be impossible, but a mk3 on the other hand...
> like I said, will probably charge ahead and go v1 with supporting mods and keep an eye out for a v7
> 
> After all, who doesn't like a good comparison chart


I have a V2 on my MKIV, it's not impossible


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

KubotaPowered said:


> I can tell you that right now, the V1 is already hitting the backside of the Hella e-codes that are in the MK3.


fair enough 
won't stop me from trying if one comes up though!



.LSinLV. said:


> I have a V2 on my MKIV, it's not impossible


Well, V1/2 are the same size.
It's the V7 blower that's bigger by 0.6" all around. The bracket is the same.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

prometheus_ said:


> fair enough
> won't stop me from trying if one comes up though!
> 
> 
> ...


See if you can borrow one first....then let us know


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

perhaps i should start showing up at mustang meets


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

it will fit, just depends on what you are willing to trim:laugh: i had to cut a 2 inch deep section out of the pass side frame rail on my wifes cabriolet to fit the V1, also had to cut the inner fender out and make one from scratch. I was planning to put a V7 on it, but i dont think i need that much more power in the cabriolet. We decided to make her Rabbit her " fast car"


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

websaabn said:


> it will fit, just depends on what you are willing to trim:laugh: i had to cut a 2 inch deep section out of the pass side frame rail on my wifes cabriolet to fit the V1, also had to cut the inner fender out and make one from scratch. I was planning to put a V7 on it, but i dont think i need that much more power in the cabriolet. We decided to make her Rabbit her " fast car"


good to know :thumbup:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

in other news, does anyone still make software for obd1 dizzy?
OR would i be able to use 42# injectors with 30# software and have it tuned 

I know C2 does, but they only sell 30# and assuming theyll do custom jobs as well


----------



## VWVETERAN (Mar 2, 2009)

*headlight clearance*

Anyone had problems with the passenger side headlight on a MK4 Jetta clearing the V9? 

I'm just finishing up the install on a used kit and there's no way the headlights going in...at least not without a severe trip to the butcher shop! Charger is tensioned properly and about mid way in the adjustment slot.

Any thoughts?

:beer:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

mine worked just fine! if the compressor housing clocked correctly? You can loosen the v-band and rotate to get a little more room.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

VWVETERAN said:


> Anyone had problems with the passenger side headlight on a MK4 Jetta clearing the V9?
> 
> I'm just finishing up the install on a used kit and there's no way the headlights going in...at least not without a severe trip to the butcher shop! Charger is tensioned properly and about mid way in the adjustment slot.
> 
> ...


i had the same problem... ended up triming some plastic


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

Whats up all, 

Trying to sell my V-9 set up if anyone's in the market check out my thread. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...VF-Supercharger-Kit-for-a-12v-VR6-with-EXTRAS


----------



## VWVETERAN (Mar 2, 2009)

littlenr said:


> mine worked just fine! if the compressor housing clocked correctly? You can loosen the v-band and rotate to get a little more room.


I looked at clocking it differently but if i do the outlet will be too low and the boost pipe will hit the frame rail!? 

I cant even fit the electrical connector...I wondered if the engine alignment was off but if the motor went back towards the firewall, giving more clearance up front the charger will hit the motor mount. These MK4 engine bays are tight! I'll have to totally re-engineer the headlight to make it fit. :banghead:

I must be missing something here.


----------



## VWVETERAN (Mar 2, 2009)

mk4vrjtta said:


> i had the same problem... ended up triming some plastic


It looks like I'll have to do the same. 

Did your electrical connector fit okay...mine hits and holds the headlight out about a 1/4".


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

VWVETERAN said:


> It looks like I'll have to do the same.
> 
> Did your electrical connector fit okay...mine hits and holds the headlight out about a 1/4".


yea, mine fits ok


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

Finally got to drive mine today and it was a blast. Need to size and replace the belt due to slipping at higher rpm though.


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

Just replaced a worn out belt with a nice spiffy Dayco 61" Still fighting with the C2 OBD1. If my tax return is fat I may ditch it and buy that plug and play Lugtronic system.


----------



## 07Blanch (Sep 1, 2007)

do any of you guys have better pictures than the ones in the VF install guide as to where the check valves get installed??

I have a mkiv R32 btw and am hoping they are installed in the same location at the 24v's.

Thanks :thumbup:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

R32s are the same. Just make sure you have them in the correct direction. Or else your intake will piss oil!



Not the best shot,


----------



## 07Blanch (Sep 1, 2007)

Thanks for the quick response Nate! Sorry, I should have been more specific, I'm talking about the 3 plastic check valves that are installed inline in certain vacuum lines I think. There are a couple pictures in the VF install guide but they aren't that great.

Thanks


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

07Blanch said:


> Thanks for the quick response Nate! Sorry, I should have been more specific, I'm talking about the 3 plastic check valves that are installed inline in certain vacuum lines I think. There are a couple pictures in the VF install guide but they aren't that great.
> 
> Thanks


One is on the brake booster line, one on the evap line, and i can't remember the 3rd. Probably something I deleted anyway.


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

So I went out to check the sizing on my belt I need to replace and found out my wife has the tool box in her mk5 at work with her. Can anyone hook me up with what size belt is needed for my application? No a/c, single idler, ~3.12" 7 rib pulley, 6 rib belt using an AMS mount.

*EDIT: correct length for future searches is 58.5" or a 6pk1485 belt*

diagram of belt routing


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

crazysccrmd said:


> So I went out to check the sizing on my belt I need to replace and found out my wife has the tool box in her mk5 at work with her. Can anyone hook me up with what size belt is needed for my application? No a/c, single idler, ~3.12" 7 rib pulley, 6 rib belt using an AMS mount.
> 
> EDIT: does a 58" belt sound right?
> 
> diagram of belt routing


58.5 or 59 I think.


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

58.5" it is, 6pk1485


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

So I added a http://www.saxonpc.com/100mm-cells-for-100.html to both sides of the 4" MAF. It may add a little restriction to flow but it sure did fix the bad uneven idle. The car will now idle at the same AFR all day long and no longer goes rich and lean for no reason. At stop lights it will idle at 12 but if I blip the throttle it will settle back to 16. Belt slip seems to be gone as well and making 8-9 PSI is very easy. Have not done any MAX pulls yet though.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

While on the subject of belts, does anyone by any chance know what size belt I should be running?
I'm expected to be getting a V1 kit with AMS bracket & 2.75 pulley and I'm running AC & PS.

As far as I can tell people are using 6/8 rib Gatorbacks that are 60.5" - 61", but I don't know if this is for C2 dual idler setups or AMSs setup.

I understand that the best way to measure is put it on the car, but I've not got the setup yet, and I want to have as much as I can ready to go.

Thoughts?


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

Try a Dayco 5070610 It seems to be a dam nice belt and is not all to spendy.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

61.58 isn't too long?


----------



## R32peterb (Aug 22, 2006)

can some one educate me as to the purpose of this oil line?
and should it be allowing oil into the charge piping?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

The V9 blowers use that line to help push the oil out of the charger in case of poor drain angle. There is a one way check valve that prevents oil from going back into the intake.


----------



## R32peterb (Aug 22, 2006)

thanks for the info, does that check valve go bad?
where can I get another one?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

The valves can go bad over time. They are available from Vortech.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

Scooter98144 said:


> Try a Dayco 5070610 It seems to be a dam nice belt and is not all to spendy.


That works with and without the dual idler. If you want something that doesn't hardly have any slack in it at all go with a 58 inch belt and single idler. I've had less slippage with the 58 inch belt and single idler due mainly to the charger not being lifted so high on the mount.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Well like I said, I'll be running an AMS bracket with power steering & a/c.
I'm not aware that AMS brackets had a dual idler variant.

Also, I imagine it'd be a good time to change all my seals when I change injectors


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

prometheus_ said:


> Well like I said, I'll be running an AMS bracket with power steering & a/c.
> I'm not aware that AMS brackets had a dual idler variant.
> 
> Also, I imagine it'd be a good time to change all my seals when I change injectors


They didn't but adding a second idler is easy.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)




----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)




----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)




----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

I'm looking for a new air filter and can't find a replacement for what I currently have. I'm running the old style AMS blow through MAF software (which runs perfect by the way) and need to replace the flat/oval k&n filter that connects directly to the charger. The numbers on the filter are F3506 which doesn't bring up anything on google searches. It is a 3.5" ID flange and 2" height with a vent fitting on top.

The closest I've seen is the RC 3180 which is the same dimensions but 3.5" tall. That might work but I'd have to reroute the breather hose to a separate small filter in order to make it fit.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

I just ordered the RC-3180. I may take a cap and plug the port on the filter as the PCV is routed to the ground.


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

KubotaPowered said:


> I just ordered the RC-3180. I may take a cap and plug the port on the filter as the PCV is routed to the ground.


You are running C2 right? So your filter won't be on the charger? I'm just worried about the extra length, it's already a pretty tight fit in there with the 2" tall filter. 

I'm taking mine to the dyno tomorrow morning and will post up the results. I'm mainly interested in what the AFR is at since it is supposed to have a custom C2 tune (according to 1552 who owned it in the past) and runs the blow through MAF setup like the original AMS. It also looks to be on stock injectors still as well. Boost gauge today showed about a 9psi peak which to me is far too high on stock injectors but the car does and has been running great with this tune for years now.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

crazysccrmd said:


> You are running C2 right? So your filter won't be on the charger? I'm just worried about the extra length, it's already a pretty tight fit in there with the 2" tall filter.
> 
> I'm taking mine to the dyno tomorrow morning and will post up the results. I'm mainly interested in what the AFR is at since it is supposed to have a custom C2 tune (according to 1552 who owned it in the past) and runs the blow through MAF setup like the original AMS. It also looks to be on stock injectors still as well. Boost gauge today showed about a 9psi peak which to me is far too high on stock injectors but the car does and has been running great with this tune for years now.


Currently running C2 42lb software and injectors, that is correct, but that is about to change hence the filter on the charger


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Oh I can't wait!!


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

Highlights from the dyno this morning

Mustang Dyno
Max boost: 10psi at ~6800rpm
AFR: 12.5-14.9 
Max wtq: 195
Max whp: 215

I obviously need to do something about the AFR. Once I get a printout later this week (printer was down) I will post it. You can see the AFR bouncing up and down instead of holding a steady 12.5 like I would prefer. It leans out up to about 14.9 in the higher RPMs which is no good. This is running either old AMS software or some strange custom C2 (blow through MAF) on stock injectors.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

which fuel pressure regulator are you running? 3 or 4 bar?


----------



## DaMenace (Nov 1, 2008)

Ok, so here's the deal. I bought a 1997 GTI Vr6 supercherged from a friend of mine for $3,500. It had 78k miles on it and it is in great condition. Now when I first ought the car it was only putting out 4psi. I thought at fist that it was ok because I might've had a stage 1 s/c. Later on the belt started slipping and I took it in to check on that. We found out the the belt was routed the wrong way from the beginning, so we bought the right size belt and routed it the right way. The day I got it back I test drove it to see if I could feel a difference, well, I sure did! The car was now putting 10-15psi I couldn't really tell the exact number. So I knew that I had one problem before, I had no chip. While the car was at the mechanic I bought a stage 1 chip, because thats what i thought I had, and a stage 2 chip both for $50. Before I test drove it I had installed the stage 1 then when I saw the difference I noticed that I needed the stage 2 chip, but I was reading online and there is also a stage 3 chip but I cant find it and I'm not even sure what stage do I have. I dont know what pulley I have, I dont know anything about the car period. Injectors, internals if any, nothing! 

What I want to know is if theres any way I can figure this out? What options do I have for chip or flash if there's any out there? Could a dyno help me figuring out what stage I have? Do I need an intercooler, blow-off valve or anything else?

BTW I live in Yuma, AZ is close to Phoenix and San Diego, so if you know where I can go to help me figure this out please tell me. Thanks in advance for your help!


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

DaMenace said:


> Ok, so here's the deal. I bought a 1997 GTI Vr6 supercherged from a friend of mine for $3,500. It had 78k miles on it and it is in great condition. Now when I first ought the car it was only putting out 4psi. I thought at fist that it was ok because I might've had a stage 1 s/c. Later on the belt started slipping and I took it in to check on that. We found out the the belt was routed the wrong way from the beginning, so we bought the right size belt and routed it the right way. The day I got it back I test drove it to see if I could feel a difference, well, I sure did! The car was now putting 10-15psi I couldn't really tell the exact number. So I knew that I had one problem before, I had no chip. While the car was at the mechanic I bought a stage 1 chip, because thats what i thought I had, and a stage 2 chip both for $50. Before I test drove it I had installed the stage 1 then when I saw the difference I noticed that I needed the stage 2 chip, but I was reading online and there is also a stage 3 chip but I cant find it and I'm not even sure what stage do I have. I dont know what pulley I have, I dont know anything about the car period. Injectors, internals if any, nothing!
> 
> What I want to know is if theres any way I can figure this out? What options do I have for chip or flash if there's any out there? Could a dyno help me figuring out what stage I have? Do I need an intercooler, blow-off valve or anything else?
> 
> BTW I live in Yuma, AZ is close to Phoenix and San Diego, so if you know where I can go to help me figure this out please tell me. Thanks in advance for your help!




You have a lot of reading to do my friend. There are 108 pages explaining everything you could ever run into with s/c on a vr6. Read them all and then ask questions.... :thumbup:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

but for starters the size of the pulley will be on the face of the pulley some where. If you are 2.5" you will be close to 15psi. If its a 3.25 or something you will be closer to 5-6psi.


----------



## DaMenace (Nov 1, 2008)

littlenr said:


> but for starters the size of the pulley will be on the face of the pulley some where. If you are 2.5" you will be close to 15psi. If its a 3.25 or something you will be closer to 5-6psi.


I am reading, thats what i've been doing all morning! LOL Thanks for the info on the pulley's thou!


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

DaMenace said:


> I am reading, thats what i've been doing all morning! LOL Thanks for the info on the pulley's thou!


Also depends on which charger you are running. V1/V2 yield bigger power than a V9.


V1 on the left and V9 on the right,.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Hey Nate...I heard you got pwnd by a wrench? Say it aint so :beer::beer::beer:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

DeckManDubs said:


> Hey Nate...I heard you got pwnd by a wrench? Say it aint so :beer::beer::beer:


Ya pretty bad. I'm never working on a car with someone else again! I shouldn't even be at work today. 

When a bolt is tight people its tight. You wont be able to move it anymore further. I got a 14" 3/8th drive socket end of a socket wrench to my fore head! :facepalm: All I will say is the individual better be glad I was just about knocked out. Or else my temper would have been right there with the rath of GOD himself!


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

littlenr said:


> which fuel pressure regulator are you running? 3 or 4 bar?


4 bar. I could probably get rising rate regulator to add additional fueling but it won't really solve the problem, just cover it up. It idles at 14.5-14.8, then drops to 12.5, rises to about 14, drops to 13 then rises to 14.9 near redline.

EDIT: what about swapping slightly larger injectors to richen things up? G60 26lb injectors at 4bar pressure are 73cc/min more flow than stock vr6 19lb injectors.

EDIT: runs were done in 3rd gear, if that makes a difference in power numbers


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

littlenr said:


> Ya pretty bad. I'm never working on a car with someone else again! I shouldn't even be at work today.
> 
> When a bolt is tight people its tight. You wont be able to move it anymore further. I got a 14" 3/8th drive socket end of a socket wrench to my fore head! :facepalm: All I will say is the individual better be glad I was just about knocked out. Or else my temper would have been right there with the rath of GOD himself!


DAMN!!!


Sounds like it needs to be beer'thirty already!


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

crazysccrmd said:


> 4 bar. I could probably get rising rate regulator to add additional fueling but it won't really solve the problem, just cover it up. It idles at 14.5-14.8, then drops to 12.5, rises to about 14, drops to 13 then rises to 14.9 near redline.
> 
> EDIT: what about swapping slightly larger injectors to richen things up? G60 26lb injectors at 4bar pressure are 73cc/min more flow than stock vr6 19lb injectors.
> 
> EDIT: runs were done in 3rd gear, if that makes a difference in power numbers


Sounds like you have a vacuum leak. Pressure test everything and start from there. I wouldn't just start throwing parts at it. BUt if you want I have a set of 36# 380cc injectors sitting in my tool box I'll sell you. 100.00.


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

I'm pretty sure there is no vac leak in the system. I had the boost monitored during the runs and it shows as a steady linear increase up to 10psi with no fluctuations. I'm not really looking to throw parts at it, just richen it up a bit to have a safety buffer until I do some real work. The end goal is 300whp on standalone but that is a bit in the future, probably at least 6months to a year away still.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

crazysccrmd said:


> I'm pretty sure there is no vac leak in the system. I had the boost monitored during the runs and it shows as a steady linear increase up to 10psi with no fluctuations. I'm not really looking to throw parts at it, just richen it up a bit to have a safety buffer until I do some real work. The end goal is 300whp on standalone but that is a bit in the future, probably at least 6months to a year away still.


Toss a different FPR in it and see what you get then. IF you have no vac leaks or boost leaks I'd start with a different FPR. They are known to go bad. I've gone thru 3 or 4. Is the fuel filter fresh?


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

I'll probably replace the fuel filter, it doesn't look bad but I don't have any records of when it was done last. The car also has the old style internal/external fuel pumps still but I don't think that should be an issue at the power levels I'm at.


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

littlenr said:


> Ya pretty bad. I'm never working on a car with someone else again! I shouldn't even be at work today.
> 
> When a bolt is tight people its tight. You wont be able to move it anymore further. I got a 14" 3/8th drive socket end of a socket wrench to my fore head! :facepalm: All I will say is the individual better be glad I was just about knocked out. Or else my temper would have been right there with the rath of GOD himself!


Gotta watch out for those envious VRT owners Nate. Always trying to sabotage and ruin the morale of yours truly.


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

Mine felt like it was lean and the wide band was saying the same thing. So tonight I popped in a 4bar and it is a LOT better for my setup. Did a pull in second gear to redline and hit 12.5 PSI. Felt real strong and AFR was not lean. 

Is 12.5psi in second gear decent for boost with a 2.75" pulley? 

Also like others have said the MAF needs an air straightener after the MAF if your going to keep it up near the charger. After I added one a LOT of the issues I was having went away.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Scooter98144 said:


> Mine felt like it was lean and the wide band was saying the same thing. So tonight I popped in a 4bar and it is a LOT better for my setup. Did a pull in second gear to redline and hit 12.5 PSI. Felt real strong and AFR was not lean.
> 
> Is 12.5psi in second gear decent for boost with a 2.75" pulley?
> 
> Also like others have said the MAF needs an air straightener after the MAF if your going to keep it up near the charger. After I added one a LOT of the issues I was having went away.


Sounds good to me!:thumbup:


----------



## euro.lo (Oct 19, 2010)

**Flame suit on*** 

I have been searching and searching, I prob missed it, and if so, you can yell, but I'm trying to find the difference between a V1, V2, and a V9.

I have a MK4 12v, and I'd like to start to piece together a kit to make 250-270hp reliably. What kind of budget should I be looking into setting aside?

Also, if you have any additional links or if you can lead me what pages of this thread or what threads to look at that'd be a great help, thanks!


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

euro.lo said:


> **Flame suit on***
> 
> I have been searching and searching, I prob missed it, and if so, you can yell, but I'm trying to find the difference between a V1, V2, and a V9.
> 
> ...


:facepalm:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

euro.lo said:


> **Flame suit on***
> 
> I have been searching and searching, I prob missed it, and if so, you can yell, but I'm trying to find the difference between a V1, V2, and a V9.
> 
> ...


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...VF-Supercharger-Kit-for-a-12v-VR6-with-EXTRAS


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

euro.lo said:


> I have been searching and searching, I prob missed it, and if so, you can yell, but I'm trying to find the difference between a V1, V2, and a V9.


Research blower differences here: LINK



euro.lo said:


> I have a MK4 12v, and I'd like to start to piece together a kit to make 250-270hp reliably. What kind of budget should I be looking into setting aside?


$3k - $4k depending on many many many different factors.

I know this thread is long, but read it all and take notes. There is a TON of good info amongst the banter, and none of us remember which page anything is on. Consider it a rite of passage.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

lotar_6 said:


> Consider it a rite of passage.


AMEN. only the few have been here since the beginning and the many have benefited from our problems and experimentation. Do yourself a favor and read all 109 pages of this thread if you are considering putting a blower on your 12v.


----------



## euro.lo (Oct 19, 2010)

obdONE said:


> AMEN. only the few have been here since the beginning and the many have benefited from our problems and experimentation. Do yourself a favor and read all 109 pages of this thread if you are considering putting a blower on your 12v.


alright. Thanks for the help, and sorry for bringing up the noob questions. 

:beer::beer:


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

What size pulley you guys think I can get away with on a v2 with 30# injectors?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

euroguy666 said:


> What size pulley you guys think I can get away with on a v2 with 30# injectors?


I'm seen guys running the 2.5" 15psi pulley. :screwy:


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Lol I id run that if I knew I wouldn't slip. But I know I will haha ill go in the 2.75 area I think to play it safe.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

30#, in OBD2??(


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Its obd2 Schimmel motor mk4 hg 8.5:1 compression
Headers ( for show) and a catless exhaust


----------



## DaMenace (Nov 1, 2008)

I was just told that putting an intercooler in my Vr6 supercharged will hurt it instead of help it. Is this true?


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

DaMenace said:


> I was just told that putting an intercooler in my Vr6 supercharged will hurt it instead of help it. Is this true?


Adding an intercooler will result in a drop in pressure. For turbo guys that is no problem, they can just up the boost level to regain what was lost by adding the extra volume into the system. We can't do that. It will give you a cooler intake charge but the gains you will see from that might be offset from the loss in pressure, depending on what psi you are running in the first place. My suggestion would be water/meth injection, it works wonders and doesn't add any volume to the system. Additionally, it not only cools in the intake charge but also decreases combustion chamber temperatures and increases relative octane of your fuel.


----------



## DaMenace (Nov 1, 2008)

crazysccrmd said:


> Adding an intercooler will result in a drop in pressure. For turbo guys that is no problem, they can just up the boost level to regain what was lost by adding the extra volume into the system. We can't do that. It will give you a cooler intake charge but the gains you will see from that might be offset from the loss in pressure, depending on what psi you are running in the first place. My suggestion would be water/meth injection, it works wonders and doesn't add any volume to the system. Additionally, it not only cools in the intake charge but also decreases combustion chamber temperatures and increases relative octane of your fuel.


Awesome info thanks!!


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)




----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

hint hint that is a video. CLICK IT


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

crazysccrmd said:


> Adding an intercooler will result in a drop in pressure. For turbo guys that is no problem, they can just up the boost level to regain what was lost by adding the extra volume into the system. We can't do that. It will give you a cooler intake charge but the gains you will see from that might be offset from the loss in pressure, depending on what psi you are running in the first place. My suggestion would be water/meth injection, it works wonders and doesn't add any volume to the system. Additionally, it not only cools in the intake charge but also decreases combustion chamber temperatures and increases relative octane of your fuel.


My isht is intercooled. I have 2psi pressure drop and no issues! But there is a crap ton of supporting parts as well


----------



## 07Blanch (Sep 1, 2007)

love that whistle! Can't wait to fire mine up...getting so close!


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

nice work Nate! now get some vids of it tearing up the street.

btw, I'm struggling to see how all that fits. I have a tough time getting my intake pipe to squeeze in w/ a traditional set-up. what's the secret?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

littlenr said:


> hint hint that is a video. CLICK IT


mmmm, aux drive


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

is that an ACTUAL V1-T, or upgraded V1?


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

DaMenace said:


> I was just told that putting an intercooler in my Vr6 supercharged will hurt it instead of help it. Is this true?


Like crazysccrmd said, but depending on your boost level an intercooler may not even be necessary. On a V1,2 or 3 anything over 14-15 psi should typically _be_ intercooled. On some MK4s or cars running MK4 head gaskets they start suffering from detonation with high boost and no intercooler. Either an intercooler, stock MK3 head gasket or 9.4:1 will put things back in check.

Remember, superchargers don't create anywhere near the heat of a turbocharger.


----------



## DaMenace (Nov 1, 2008)

MeCarTay said:


> Like crazysccrmd said, but depending on your boost level an intercooler may not even be necessary. On a V1,2 or 3 anything over 14-15 psi should typically _be_ intercooled. On some MK4s or cars running MK4 head gaskets they start suffering from detonation with high boost and no intercooler. Either an intercooler, stock MK3 head gasket or 9.4:1 will put things back in check.
> 
> Remember, superchargers don't create anywhere near the heat of a turbocharger.


Im runing about 10psi. So water meth should be enough for me?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

DaMenace said:


> Im runing about 10psi. So water meth should be enough for me?


you shouldn't even _need _that, but water/meth will give you other benefits aside from keeping temperatures down


----------



## DaMenace (Nov 1, 2008)

prometheus_ said:


> you shouldn't even _need _that, but water/meth will give you other benefits aside from keeping temperatures down


so what wiuld be a good next upgrade? Cams maybe?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

lotar_6 said:


> nice work Nate! now get some vids of it tearing up the street.
> 
> btw, I'm struggling to see how all that fits. I have a tough time getting my intake pipe to squeeze in w/ a traditional set-up. what's the secret?


a cut off wheel and lots of test and fit!opcorn:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

prometheus_ said:


> is that an ACTUAL V1-T, or upgraded V1?


its is a V1 charger T-trim.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

littlenr said:


> its is a V1 charger T-trim.


jealous :beer:


----------



## mushroom_curry (Apr 21, 2004)

prometheus_ said:


> jealous :beer:


Where are you at with the S/C gameplan?

I'd love to hear your car do an S/C'd fly-by!

As you recall, your parking lot fly by is what made me solidify my VR swap plan... You made me broke Adrian


----------



## 07Blanch (Sep 1, 2007)

Quote Originally Posted by lotar_6


> nice work Nate! now get some vids of it tearing up the street.
> 
> btw, I'm struggling to see how all that fits. I have a tough time getting my intake pipe to squeeze in w/ a traditional set-up. what's the secret?





littlenr said:


> a cut off wheel and lots of test and fit!opcorn:


X2! I had to dremel off a lot of the plastic where the headlight mounts (by the bumper) and the fan shroud where the intercooler mounts. I probably did more than needed but I wanted to be sure there was no rubbing on the intake.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

mushroom_curry said:


> Where are you at with the S/C gameplan?
> 
> I'd love to hear your car do an S/C'd fly-by!
> 
> As you recall, your parking lot fly by is what made me solidify my VR swap plan... You made me broke Adrian


Waiting for guy to take it off his car and ship it :banghead:
Been a week+ now with little info.

Scouring marketplace again because I don't like how it's looking


----------



## mushroom_curry (Apr 21, 2004)

prometheus_ said:


> Waiting for guy to take it off his car and ship it :banghead:
> Been a week+ now with little info.
> 
> Scouring marketplace again because I don't like how it's looking


----------



## vdubstreets (Apr 26, 2004)

stupid question what is the point of the MAF clamp? I pieced the kit together so I'm not even sure if I need it. I'm running c2 #30 software obd2 coilpack. mk3 vr6. V9 .


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

vdubstreets said:


> stupid question what is the point of the MAF clamp? I pieced the kit together so I'm not even sure if I need it. I'm running c2 #30 software obd2 coilpack. mk3 vr6. V9 .


You use it for the GIAC software that comes with the VF kits. No need to use it on the C2 software.


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

littlenr said:


> a cut off wheel and lots of test and fit!opcorn:


that's what I thought. *sigh*

I put on a gatorback and still get slip on my 2.62... I need a better pulley.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

lotar_6 said:


> I put on a gatorback and still get slip on my 2.62... I need a better pulley.


http://www.carbiniteracing.com/index.html


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

obdONE said:


> http://www.carbiniteracing.com/index.html


:thumbup:

I've seen that before. If I can find a nice pulley worth doing this to, I'm all over it! My current pulley is beat... I want a 2.5" 7-rib anyway.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

littlenr said:


>


1 of 2 Aux drive Cogged :laugh:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

whenever i find a seller who is _actually ready _to ship a complete setup for a good price, i will hopefully be cogged a little afterwards :laugh:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

prometheus_ said:


> whenever i find a seller who is _actually ready _to ship a complete setup for a good price, i will hopefully be cogged a little afterwards :laugh:


:laugh:


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

lotar_6 said:


> :thumbup:
> 
> I've seen that before. If I can find a nice pulley worth doing this to, I'm all over it! My current pulley is beat... I want a 2.5" 7-rib anyway.


I was under the impression we couldn't get 7 rib pulleys? either way it would be about the same price for you to buy the one they alreayd have coated as it would be to ship out your and have it coated... :thumbup:


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

It's $200 for one of their pulleys. A new 2.5" 8-rib from Vortech costs about $90 + shipping. They would probably charge $50 to coat it. So you might come out a bit ahead, but I bet the lead times in getting the pulley from Vortech, then sending it to carbinite and having them coat it, would make just buying one directly from them worth it in the end.

C2 made 2.5" 7-rib pulleys for their kits, but they are few and far between these days. I was running a 2.5" 8-rib on my v9 before I sold it and it worked great. I was also running the VF idler, which will get in the way of an 8-rib, but I just machined the pulley down a bit to clear the idler, and all was gravy. If you aren't running an idler, there will be no issues.

or you could just do a 6-rib and not worry about clearance. we're all running 6-rib belts anyways...


----------



## Flyweight (Jan 15, 2007)

*Initial Impressions*

Well I drove my MK2 VR SC for the first time. I am just breaking in the motor and so I am running the 6 psi pulley right now. I am running SLCturbo's old kit...formerly SLC92. I thought I would chime in with a few initial impressions. First here is a list of the relevant modifications done to the car:

Motor:
Vortech V9 kit
6 psi pulley - Will be swapped with a 11.5 psi (2.5 inch) pulley when motor is broken in
DRC 268s
3in mandrel bent exhaust
Eastern Catalytic 200 cell metallic cat
Borla XR-1 resonator
Side exit exhaust
Ported exhaust manifolds
TT downpipe expanded to 3"
Lightweight lifters
Ti valve springs
Ported head
Mk4 head gasket 
C2 30# software with MAF located right next to stock battery location

Gearbox:
3.94 gears TDI 5th
Quaiffe 
Rolling on 195/50 15 Toyo R1Rs
Competition Iron Man clutch
7.5 lb flywheel

-First the exhaust is very loud. It drones at about 2200 rpm but the drone goes away at about 2500 rpm or so. I might need to add a real muffler...we shall see what I can take. It sounds fantastic when I get on the car.

-The Toyo R1Rs are F***ing awesome! They handle the power very well. There is a reason why this is the tire to run in light cars in STS. 

-The power delivery is very controllable especially with the Toyo R1Rs.

-The car really rips above 4000rpm even with just 6psi. 

-I was expecting a bit more midrange power than what the car currently has. Hopefully, the 11.5 psi kit will add a few psi in the midrange. 

-1st gear is WAY to short. Is there any option for lengthening this gear to make it useful? I hate the large drop in RPM when I shift to 2nd. 

-The Competition Iron Man clutch is definitely overkill. It takes a bit of practice to get used to but I have been able to drive relatively smoothly with it. The 1-2 shift can not be done to smoothly though thanks to a big RPM drop in combination with a very light flywheel

-I love the light flywheel/supercharger combo. Makes the car feel like a responsive NA beast. I plan on Autoxing the car quite a bit so I wanted a responsive setup. 

-I know some people have had problems with the SC and C2 combo. Mine is running excellent so far. My MAF is located very far away from the charger though. 

-Andrew


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

My understanding was that maf before blower was better for c2 setups


----------



## carma (Sep 30, 1999)

Looking to eek out a bit more from my Vortech V9 G-trim if possible on my 04' R32. I was thinking about the 928 Motorsports, and getting a new impeller, but from what I've gleaned from this thread it looks to be a lost cause. My car was the original test bed for the HPA Typhoon supercharger kit. It has the Typhoon kit plus custom HPA downpipes, HPA cams, Lebonte W/M kit and custom UM E85 tune. I put down 386WHP SAE corrected from a Dynojet last week. The car is making about 7.8-7.9 PSI of boost at the manifold, stock compression. I want to push the PSI a tad more if possible, and was thinking a new impeller would do it, like 1 more PSI. Any thoughts? It's making great power now, but would like to hit 400WHP if possible from the V9 on stock compression. Port/polished head, new impeller, etc. Any thoughts? BTW with the HPA pulley/bracket setup the belt has never slipped. I don't plan on changing the pulley size.


----------



## mars2 (Sep 16, 2008)

Carma there is this guy in england that have fit a VI impeller in the V9.
let's see whet he get. I say's to be at 7-8psi on his R32 with the restrictive stage2 vf intercooler
So I guess something like 8-9psi could hapen with your water/air intercooler.
http://www.r32oc.com/forced-induction/8282-has-anyone-had-their-supercharger-rebuilt-3.html


----------



## mars2 (Sep 16, 2008)

He say's to be at 7-8psi on his R32 with the restrictive stage2 vf intercooler


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

So what is everyone using for DV? And placement. The kit I bought came with a straight up BOV and is placed between charger and tb? Is that okay? I kinda never understood the difference


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

i am running a vortech mondo bypass valve on the bend before the throttle body on the wifes cabriolet















i am running a vortech mondo bypass valve right before the intercooler on my R


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Gotcha. So my placement of the bung on my charge pipe is good. But not my forge. Its just a bov I think. Just a vacuum line port and the 1 inch part that comes off the charge pipe. Sorry if im not making a ton of sense. Bad with technical words


----------



## DaMenace (Nov 1, 2008)

Ok so I'm about to buy some cams for my VR6SC...What brand should I get? A lot of people told me that DSR are the best. I want the cams that are going to give me the best results...Or if there's something else I should spend money in can you guys let me know? Thanks in advance...

Also..Do I need to buy new piping to get a DV or Blowoff in my car? Or can I make it? and whichone should I get?


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

euroguy666 said:


> So what is everyone using for DV? And placement. The kit I bought came with a straight up BOV and is placed between charger and tb? Is that okay? I kinda never understood the difference


with any boosted system, you need to bleed the boost when the TB snaps shut, or bad things happen when the pressure causes air to flow the wrong way over the impellar while it's trying to push air the other way. A DV or BOV should be placed somewhere in between your boost source and the throttle body.



websaabn said:


> i am running a vortech mondo bypass valve on the bend before the throttle body on the wifes cabriolet


I've got a Synapse in the same place.












DaMenace said:


> Ok so I'm about to buy some cams for my VR6SC...What brand should I get? A lot of people told me that DSR are the best. I want the cams that are going to give me the best results...Or if there's something else I should spend money in can you guys let me know? Thanks in advance...
> 
> Also..Do I need to buy new piping to get a DV or Blowoff in my car? Or can I make it? and whichone should I get?


If you are running a MAF based software as engine management, you need to divert the air back into the system after the MAF. If you blow-off to atmosphere or circulate back before the MAF, your metered air will be wrong and cause rich running conditions and stalling issues. Gotta figure out how to mount it as described in responses above.

As for cams, I'm running TT 268˚ cams and love them. Any more than 268˚ isn't good for boosted apps from my reading, and consultation with TT. That said, the duration has more of an affect than the lift. the longer the valves are open, the more blow-by you get in high pressure high rev situations. Many people run 262's w/ great results. No matter what you run, I suggest HD valve springs and obviously a propper tune to accomodate for the changes cams induce into the the timing and fueling needs.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

I was running Autotech 262's for about 5k miles, but then i switched to Schrick 268's, the top end is much stronger but lost some in the middle.


----------



## DaMenace (Nov 1, 2008)

websaabn said:


> I was running Autotech 262's for about 5k miles, but then i switched to Schrick 268's, the top end is much stronger but lost some in the middle.


So whichone you liked more?


----------



## DaMenace (Nov 1, 2008)

lotar_6 said:


> with any boosted system, you need to bleed the boost when the TB snaps shut, or bad things happen when the pressure causes air to flow the wrong way over the impellar while it's trying to push air the other way. A DV or BOV should be placed somewhere in between your boost source and the throttle body.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I am running a 4"MAF but its almost in the ground(by the tire) Can I just take it out? I really dont know if my chip calls for a MAF. How can I find out? I have a stage 1 chip giac but I have a stage2 at home. Would I need a new chip with cams? If I do is a stage 2 good enough or do i need the one they sell for that specific cam? As for the DV since I guess I need a DV where can I put it if my MAF is down there? Any tips? pictures or something that might help? Thanks so much for the help!!


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

I understand why you need to bleed the system. But I was asking about bov vs dv. Why is it some blow it to atmosphere and sum recirulate


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

euroguy666 said:


> I understand why you need to bleed the system. But I was asking about bov vs dv. Why is it some blow it to atmosphere and sum recirulate


superchargers need to recirculate.

Correct me if I'm wrong but BOV or DV doesn't matter, as long as you arent venting to atmosphere

Also, V1 kit finally en route to my location


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

DaMenace said:


> I am running a 4"MAF but its almost in the ground(by the tire) Can I just take it out? I really dont know if my chip calls for a MAF. How can I find out? I have a stage 1 chip giac but I have a stage2 at home. Would I need a new chip with cams? If I do is a stage 2 good enough or do i need the one they sell for that specific cam? As for the DV since I guess I need a DV where can I put it if my MAF is down there? Any tips? pictures or something that might help? Thanks so much for the help!!


You have about 100 pages of reading to go through man. Your question of whether or not you need a MAF on a chip based system shows just how much learning you have to do. Get at it. If you don't, and rely on one line posts for answers to your questions, you're going to end up frying something as a result. Not trying to be mean, just telling you that you have a lot to learn and need to start reading now.





euroguy666 said:


> I understand why you need to bleed the system. But I was asking about bov vs dv. Why is it some blow it to atmosphere and sum recirulate


most people run chip tunes with a MAF on their s/c setups. a recirculated BOV or DV (either will work) is required with a MAF so that the air the MAF metered doesn't get lost when it vents to the atmosphere. You'll start running rich since the MAF read a certain amount of air, sent the corresponding fuel, but then the air was lost by venting instead of recirculating.





prometheus_ said:


> superchargers need to recirculate.
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong but BOV or DV doesn't matter, as long as you arent venting to atmosphere
> 
> Also, V1 kit finally en route to my location


its not the supercharger that needs the recirculated bov or dv, it's the MAF sensor. If you were running on stand alone and tuning via TPS or MAP, you could run a bov or dv vented to the atmosphere all day long, regardless of turbo or s/c


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Sorry, meant to post *supercharger setups*, not to imply the supercharger needs it 
Even that can be worked around though with standalone.

IIRC someone in these pages was running without a recirc because they had lugtronic or something like that


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

prometheus_ said:


> Sorry, meant to post *supercharger setups*, not to imply the supercharger needs it
> Even that can be worked around though with standalone.
> 
> IIRC someone in these pages was running without a recirc because they had lugtronic or something like that


I was one of those people.


----------



## mushroom_curry (Apr 21, 2004)

prometheus_ said:


> superchargers need to recirculate.
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong but BOV or DV doesn't matter, as long as you arent venting to atmosphere
> 
> Also, V1 kit finally en route to my location


Congrats!


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

DaMenace said:


> So whichone you liked more?


i like the 268's best.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

obdONE said:


> I was one of those people.


And voila! :laugh:




mushroom_curry said:


> Congrats!


I'll let you know when its in so can pop by a thursday


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Okay bc the prick that sold me the kit gave me like a halfassed kit and the forge he gave me goes to atmosphere obviously bc there's only one 1 inch hole on it and a spot for the vacuum line. So I guess ill be looking for something else.


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

euroguy666 said:


> I understand why you need to bleed the system. But I was asking about bov vs dv. Why is it some blow it to atmosphere and sum recirulate





prometheus_ said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong but BOV or DV doesn't matter, as long as you arent venting to atmosphere...


A BOV is a Blow-Off Valve and infers "blowing off" to atmosphere. A DV is a Diverter Valve and infers the recirculation of the released air back into the intake. 

If you are running a TPS or MAP tune via standalone, you don't need to meter air flow and can vent to atmosphere. If you have a MAF tune you need to recirculate. As per obdONE...



obdONE said:


> its not the supercharger that needs the recirculated bov or dv, it's the MAF sensor. If you were running on stand alone and tuning via TPS or MAP, you could run a bov or dv vented to the atmosphere all day long, regardless of turbo or s/c
> 
> most people run chip tunes with a MAF on their s/c setups. a recirculated BOV or DV (either will work) is required with a MAF so that the air the MAF metered doesn't get lost when it vents to the atmosphere. You'll start running rich since the MAF read a certain amount of air, sent the corresponding fuel, but then the air was lost by venting instead of recirculating.


:beer: 



DaMenace said:


> I am running a 4"MAF but its almost in the ground(by the tire) Can I just take it out? I really dont know if my chip calls for a MAF. How can I find out? I have a stage 1 chip giac but I have a stage2 at home. Would I need a new chip with cams? If I do is a stage 2 good enough or do i need the one they sell for that specific cam? As for the DV since I guess I need a DV where can I put it if my MAF is down there? Any tips? pictures or something that might help? Thanks so much for the help!!


Your chip tune is MAF based. You need the MAF. Get specs on the cams you are buying and have somebody burn a tune your your set up.




prometheus_ said:


> IIRC someone in these pages was running without a recirc because they had lugtronic or something like that


I am also one of those people. Megasquirt...



euroguy666 said:


> Okay bc the prick that sold me the kit gave me like a halfassed kit and the forge he gave me goes to atmosphere obviously bc there's only one 1 inch hole on it and a spot for the vacuum line. So I guess ill be looking for something else.


post a pic of it. If you can get a tube attached, you can use it as a recirculating valve. Is it just a hole? Can you buy an attachment for the output hole?



obdONE said:


> You have about 100 pages of reading to go through man. Your question of whether or not you need a MAF on a chip based system shows just how much learning you have to do. Get at it. If you don't, and rely on one line posts for answers to your questions, you're going to end up frying something as a result. Not trying to be mean, just telling you that you have a lot to learn and need to start reading now.


yeah that...

and another :beer: for you, Jamie!


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Ill get a pic off but its a bov. And from what I understand what u said is what I was thinking. But some of these guys are saying otherwise. Coulda sworn a bov strictly went to atmosphere and a dv diverts or recirculates the air. Was looking at the vf one but I may up the boost a bit.and don't need compressor surge at 5000rpm


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

prometheus_ said:


> And voila! :laugh:


haha, yeah. lots of info to sort through here. :beer:





euroguy666 said:


> Okay bc the prick that sold me the kit gave me like a halfassed kit and the forge he gave me goes to atmosphere obviously bc there's only one 1 inch hole on it and a spot for the vacuum line. So I guess ill be looking for something else.


try to just clamp a hose on to the discharge port on that forge DV and then run it back in to your intake tube, post maf, at least 12" away from the maf. that should be all you need.





lotar_6 said:


> post a pic of it. If you can get a tube attached, you can use it as a recirculating valve. Is it just a hole? Can you buy an attachment for the output hole?


yep ^^^ and one for you :beer::thumbup:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

a recirculating BOV doesnt have any performance advantages over a DV, but it does sound and look 1000x cooler


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RZiqA2FpUA

new video of the wifes cabriolet


----------



## mushroom_curry (Apr 21, 2004)

YES! Favourited!!!


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

holy rev bounce, batman!


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

obdONE said:


> holy rev bounce, batman!


haha got to make sure its still there:laugh:


----------



## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

websaabn said:


> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RZiqA2FpUA
> 
> new video of the wifes cabriolet


Meh, shiz is weak! Not really though, this car can get out of Dodge!:beer:
We need to take a ride with that there camera when I get my car back together.


----------



## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

obdONE said:


> holy rev bounce, batman!


Supercharged VR Cabby, life at 7200 rpm.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

GinsterMan98 said:


> Supercharged VR Cabby, life at 7200 rpm.


yea I didn't build it to drive it nice


----------



## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

If it was mine, it would get driven the same way. Only with the top down and some bitchin shades for a more baller effect because its a Cabby.


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

Makes me want to do a video of mine when I get back to America. Although last time I did that with my VRT I almost went to jail, so maybe not.


----------



## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

With the camera on the back, video evidence. Sounds like the one time I went out to log knock and got nailed.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

my setup is like.. an hour from me.
i know it wont get here until tomorrow and i'm still waiting for the ecm, but dammit i want to have it running over the weekend :banghead::laugh:


----------



## mushroom_curry (Apr 21, 2004)

Take me for a ride in it ! I'll buy you beers!!


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

mushroom_curry said:


> Take me for a ride in it ! I'll buy you beers!!


_ SOON_


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

So since I put in a SRI last year, I've been battling my coolant system because of the upper radiator hose wanting to direct straight into the charge pipe bend coming into my TB. Does anyone have a suggestion for custom upper radiator hoses or flexible ones that can make a pretty tight turn? I tried one of the Goodyear flex hoses that are more or less accordian shaped with a springlike piece of metal inside but it can't make the tight turn I would need as it either needs to come out past the charge pipe bend and turn tightly to pass between it and the radiator fan or do a near hairpin turn to travel back behind the charge pipe then turn forward and go to the upper radiator fitting. It's a MkIV 12v VR6 with a stage 2 V9 and one of Juan's SRIs on there. 

thanks!
Justin


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

I made my own sri with the TB on the bottom!


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)




----------



## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

Very interesting, looks good.:thumbup:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Reminds me of one of these from wagner tuning :thumbup:










*EDIT;
*Look what just showed up


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Uh Bevis we have a problem....


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

prometheus_ said:


> Reminds me of one of these from wagner tuning :thumbup:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That is what I modeled mine off of. I just decided to build my own!! All aluminum welded it up. Used a mk3 lower manifold and milled it down so the runners were flat. Then made a box and bam! Oh and it bolts a r32 tb....


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

V2 si trim cogged ....


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

littlenr said:


> Uh Bevis we have a problem....


What happend??



groupracer said:


> V2 si trim cogged ....


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

Looking for some advice on adding additional fueling to my setup. It's currently an old style blow through MAF setup running on either AMS or custom C2 software (depends on who you ask) using stock injectors and a 4bar FPR. It idles fine at ~14.7 but the AFR is not very solid through the powerband. It drops to around 12.5 once seeing boost, rises to around 14, drops to ~13, and then rises to about 14.9 at 6800rpms/10psi. 

I realize that increasing fuel isn't a solution, but my real solution is standalone at a later date. I'm just looking for a bandaid to provide a little safety buffer. I think adding a rise rate FPR could be a fix but I don't really know how they work. It seems like that would keep my idle and cruise AFR as they are now (fine) and increase fuel as boost rises to compensate for the lean condition. I have no experience using RRFPRs - does this sound right?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

crazysccrmd said:


> Looking for some advice on adding additional fueling to my setup. It's currently an old style blow through MAF setup running on either AMS or custom C2 software (depends on who you ask) using stock injectors and a 4bar FPR. It idles fine at ~14.7 but the AFR is not very solid through the powerband. It drops to around 12.5 once seeing boost, rises to around 14, drops to ~13, and then rises to about 14.9 at 6800rpms/10psi.
> 
> I realize that increasing fuel isn't a solution, but my real solution is standalone at a later date. I'm just looking for a bandaid to provide a little safety buffer. I think adding a rise rate FPR could be a fix but I don't really know how they work. It seems like that would keep my idle and cruise AFR as they are now (fine) and increase fuel as boost rises to compensate for the lean condition. I have no experience using RRFPRs - does this sound right?


With those AF I wouldn't even think about getting more fuel. You lean at idle, and spot on during boost, but it doesn't stay consistent. This sounds like a bad fpr or a vacuum leak.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Need a bit of help here 

Are you running EVAP on your 12v cars?

What I mean is, when you removed the charcoal canister did you:
- remove the evap purge valve + connecter plug
- plug the line coming off the throttle body (yellow arrow in image)
- where did you plug in the wire thats normally plugged into the breather hose









This is what my setup is going to look like (12v obd1 dizzy)
I don't have EGR, going to be removing the whole canister system (rather than just canister), as well as my ISV.
I'm planning on installing the kit on the weekend, so any help would be great 

I THINK I just cap and remove all the lines.
I'm really just unsure about the solenoid and if I should be leaving it plugged in (obd1, remember)


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

*Custom Vortech Pullies*

So... I found a vendor that can make custom pullies. I've been hunting for a 7-rib 2.5" for a while, and they are wicked sparse. If you are interested, check out my interest thread... LINK 

Thoughts??


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

prometheus_ said:


> Need a bit of help here
> 
> Are you running EVAP on your 12v cars?
> 
> ...


 

Cap the port on the TB and remove everything else. The plug on the breather can just be left hanging. Just be sure it wont be laying on anything hot. Just so the plastic doesn't get messed up. Being OBD1 the car will not run any different.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Awesome, thanks


----------



## 20v GTI Guy (Aug 20, 2001)

Does anyone know of any other cog setups besides verdict motorsports? I found a thread from 2007 where a guy said he was going to start making them, but that seemed to die off. 

If anyone has any input on the verdict kit, please chime in. I'm having a hard time understanding where 1300 bucks is going considering its 4 pulleys and a belt. Now I may be wrong with that part, however the website isn't clear on what's included. 

Let me know what you guys think... My charger setup is just about complete but now I'm thinking about going with cog pulleys right off the bat. 

This will be on a dizzy vr with standalone.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

20v GTI Guy said:


> Does anyone know of any other cog setups besides verdict motorsports? I found a thread from 2007 where a guy said he was going to start making them, but that seemed to die off.
> 
> If anyone has any input on the verdict kit, please chime in. I'm having a hard time understanding where 1300 bucks is going considering its 4 pulleys and a belt. Now I may be wrong with that part, however the website isn't clear on what's included.
> 
> ...


 The material used is aircraft grade aluminum. The belts is over 100 bucks alone. Uhh... anodizing costs a few bucks, and plus their machine shop time, and labor. So 1300 is spot on IMO. I have their mk4 axillary drive. They don't buy their pulleys, they make them.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

i believe it comes with a new bracket for the s/c also. but i do agree it is a little much, dont get me wrong, id love to have a bolt on cogged set up  looks like quality parts :thumbup:


----------



## 20v GTI Guy (Aug 20, 2001)

Does anyone have a picture of the whole kit? 

And to say "aircraft grade" aluminum is pretty vague. There's a lot of very common aluminum grades that are used on aircrafts, and considering the heat resistance needed (or not needed) on car pullies, I don't think it has to be state of the art or anything. IMO. 

With that being said, I could be way off and not understand the true costs of the materials, blah blah blah... it just seems excessive to me.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

20v GTI Guy said:


> Does anyone have a picture of the whole kit?
> 
> And to say "aircraft grade" aluminum is pretty vague. There's a lot of very common aluminum grades that are used on aircrafts, and considering the heat resistance needed (or not needed) on car pullies, I don't think it has to be state of the art or anything. IMO.
> 
> With that being said, I could be way off and not understand the true costs of the materials, blah blah blah... it just seems excessive to me.


 If you are on FB got their page. Verdict


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)




----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

Goodbye MAF, your services are no longer required. Lugtronic should be here tomorrow


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

^^^ f_ck yeah!


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

KubotaPowered said:


> Goodbye MAF, your services are no longer required. Lugtronic should be here tomorrow


 You installing it yourself? Was toying around with it but im sick of trailering my car places to get stuff done


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

euroguy666 said:


> You installing it yourself? Was toying around with it but im sick of trailering my car places to get stuff done


 Yes I am. Should be running tomorrow, I will let you know how it goes. My expectations are high as many people on here sing praises to Kevin Black :thumbup:


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

KubotaPowered said:


> Yes I am. Should be running tomorrow, I will let you know how it goes. My expectations are high as many people on here sing praises to Kevin Black :thumbup:


 Yeah so I hear... they sending you a base tune so u can put around til it gets Dyno tuned? And r u doing pnp? Or are u going with the wire in kit?


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

euroguy666 said:


> Yeah so I hear... they sending you a base tune so u can put around til it gets Dyno tuned? And r u doing pnp? Or are u going with the wire in kit?


 Nope, PnP kit with AC. The base map will be plenty to drive around on, just need to get some dyno time and get a few logs.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Another quick question; 










This nipple. What is this supposed to be for? (green circle) 
I see some people running it, and some people have it plugged instead like the one below 










Am I supposed to run a vacuum line to it (and subsequently boost gauge)?


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

prometheus_ said:


> Another quick question;
> 
> This nipple. What is this supposed to be for? (green circle)
> I see some people running it, and some people have it plugged instead like the one below
> ...


 On a V9 it's used to feed back into the oil chamber to give pressure for oil drainage. Some BOV's (like Synapse) require a boost only feed and this can be used for that. But, since it's before the TB butterfly, it will not register vacuum for a boost gauge or other equipment needing vacuum readings. That nipple will only register boost. The best spot to tap for a boost gauge is after the TB in the intake mani somewhere... I have mine on the junction that's fed from the intake up near the FPR. I use the port port you circled for my water/meth injection on my V2.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

I have a Verdict cogged set up in my car. It solved my belt slip issues. Its a solidly designed kit that works. I even retained my A/C, but I dont think thats an option now. 

its the pulleys, the belt, a shaved crank cover plate & because people cant seem to install the simplest stuff w/o hassle, they prefer to do the installs to make sure its 100%.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

lotar_6 said:


> On a V9 it's used to feed back into the oil chamber to give pressure for oil drainage. Some BOV's (like Synapse) require a boost only feed and this can be used for that. But, since it's before the TB butterfly, it will not register vacuum for a boost gauge or other equipment needing vacuum readings. That nipple will only register boost. The best spot to tap for a boost gauge is after the TB in the intake mani somewhere... I have mine on the junction that's fed from the intake up near the FPR. I use the port port you circled for my water/meth injection on my V2.


 dope, that's exactly what I wanted to know. 
I have plans for meth in the future, so I'll just remove the nipple and plug it until then


----------



## 20v GTI Guy (Aug 20, 2001)

CorradoMagic said:


> I have a Verdict cogged set up in my car. It solved my belt slip issues. Its a solidly designed kit that works. I even retained my A/C, but I dont think thats an option now.
> 
> its the pulleys, the belt, a shaved crank cover plate & because people cant seem to install the simplest stuff w/o hassle, they prefer to do the installs to make sure its 100%.


 Oh, I didn't realize they delete the a/c for this kit.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Got a bit of hesitation at full throttle pushing over 4200rpm, but we think it's a temp sensor since it was doing this before as well. 
Will have to look into it on Monday as shops are closed tomorrow and I think I can keep myself from ripping past that for a day


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

score! congrats...


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

DV sounded a little fcked, like it wasnt working quite right. 
Changed it out (710) for another one (710N), no more weird sound when DV is open :thumbup:


----------



## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

Sounds good, When the diaphragm in the DV tears it will sound like a duck call sometimes.:thumbup:


----------



## G_Lader_91 (Dec 28, 2006)

Searched through quite a few pages, found some interesting info and setups, just looking for some insight from real users. Anyone running a 24v equal to or higher than vf stg2 with other software? I want to go with someone else for software and want to keep stock c/r and the charger...permanently. Please point me to the right person...


I am sick of their (VF) software and especially their customer support. Multiple fail ECU codes and permanent bank 2 issues, although o2's are brand new and worked perfect before said "flash"
Long story short, I specifically requested a stg 1 pulley/belt and was mailed stg 2. They denied they sent it to me, and that's not even what pissed me off.

I politely offered to purchase their software and injectors to complete their goof and they continually blow me off. Even Nick Saran himself has told me one thing over the phone and done nothing to follow through. Guess I should buy an R8 and maybe I'd get some customer support...oh wait I'd go apr.

I am in process of awic and meth/water injection to fix for now. Pics soon, I promise:laugh:

Also, any 24v guys interested in t/b spacers for h20/meth inj shoot me a pm. I am in process of making a few and want to help anyone out that needs one. Gotta love that water jet


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

Go to C2 for your software if you want a good flash tune. VF is known for their terrible customer service. I wouldn't try and spin your V9 too fast as it is not rated for high impeller speeds. Throw some cams and good software in and call it a day.


----------



## mushroom_curry (Apr 21, 2004)

Apart from the 3.2 boys, does anyone have their SC mounted down and in front of the block?

Would be the best route to go in my application with the "bottom feed" short ram I'm using.

No power steering or AC pumps in the way... So I'd imagine making a bracket would be relatively straight forward.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

mushroom_curry said:


> Apart from the 3.2 boys, does anyone have their SC mounted down and in front of the block?
> 
> Would be the best route to go in my application with the "bottom feed" short ram I'm using.
> 
> No power steering or AC pumps in the way... So I'd imagine making a bracket would be relatively straight forward.


Dont think so rajiv.
You're best option would be to clock the charger to have the outlet facing forwards and down, then have the charge pipe running that way. Going to be real tight in your mk2 

LittleNR was setting up a Wagner-esque sri, he'd be the one to ask


----------



## mushroom_curry (Apr 21, 2004)

Hmmm

That would work, but both of the frame rail trays are shaved. Want the VR6 to look as balanced and as small as possible.

Also don't want the charger visible. Might have to buy a blown one for mock-up.

I think this is a Rotrex unit ? Can anyone ID it? Sorry I know its a terrible pic.









If I mounted it like so my Wagner manifold inlet is in the perfect position!

Thoughts?


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

That is a Rotrex kit. I wish they weren't made of unobtainium, at least for us in the US


----------



## mushroom_curry (Apr 21, 2004)

Most bits in this kit aren't even useable for positioning it down and below:

http://www.ccr-racing.com/shop/supercharger-bolton-kit-213p.html

Damn.

Edit: This DIY kit without the piping and rolling tune seems more like it:
http://www.stormdevelopments.co.uk/12v-2-8-2-9-vr6.html


----------



## DaMenace (Nov 1, 2008)

I have a 1997 GTI VR6SC (AMS kit with V-1). It's almost a stage2! LOL I'll explain. I have the 4" MAF installed, I have the chip stage2 GIAC at my house waiting for the injectors. I do not have a DV or water-meth system or inter-cooler. Do I need any of these to be able to run Stage 2 comfortably without breaking anything?

I am buying some 440cc injectors to go with my stage 2 GIAC chip. I was told that I also need to install a DV or blow-off because I can break my supercharger (is this true?) What DV or blow-off should I get? 

I also have a 2.9 clone intake manifold that I will be installing this weekend. I really don't know much about this I've been reading a lot but I'm still pretty far behind. I'm in page 7. I want to know this so that I can go ahead and start purchasing the parts I need. Please any help would be appreciated! If you have any other questions so you can help me please ask. 

Thank you in advance!


----------



## DaMenace (Nov 1, 2008)

prometheus_ said:


> Got a bit of hesitation at full throttle pushing over 4200rpm, but we think it's a temp sensor since it was doing this before as well.
> Will have to look into it on Monday as shops are closed tomorrow and I think I can keep myself from ripping past that for a day


Is there a reason why mine dosnt whistle like that?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

*@Rajiv,*
If you run a V1/V2 sized charger, you will probably have to drill a hole into the frame rail.
Although, you can get a longer line I suppose.

The Rotrex stuff is really expensive, but arguably better than the Vortech units.
European market tends to be smaller cars with smaller displacement motors, so the product developed there tends to work better than say Vortech which was primarily for big american motors.

I could also be talking out of my ass.

At any rate it would be a pain in the ass to get a Rotrex here in Canada with us, but not impossible.
You're just going to pay out the nose and pray is never needs servicing.

Come out on Thursday TBH 


*@DaMenace,*
What kind of power is the GIAC claiming to give. IIRC you shouldn't _really_ need a front mount until you're making around 300hp at the wheels. I'm sure someone can chime in about that.

In regards to the diverter valve. Get one ASAP. It's not that the car won't run without it, it's that you'll reduce the lifespan of your blower.

Since it's 4", I'm assuming you're running your MAF before the blower. If that's correct, then you need a diverter valve in your charge pipe that recirculates via hose back into the airstream BEFORE the blower, but after the MAF.

This will prevent all that air from rushing back into the supercharger from teh wrong direction once you close the throttle.

You can use an OEM 710N diverter valve from a Audi TT 1.8t or one from Forge or Vortech. You could also use a recirculating BOV (ie: HKS SSQV, Greddy Type-s), but they offer no gains other than a different sound.

As for why your charger doesn't whine? No idea. Is it actually a V1 or is it a V2?


----------



## DaMenace (Nov 1, 2008)

prometheus_ said:


> *@Rajiv,*
> *@DaMenace,*
> 1. What kind of power is the GIAC claiming to give.
> 
> ...



1. I really don't know what power it claims. I bought it used.

2. Yes, like 1" after the filter right next to the tire.

3. What different sound? What's the difference?

4. Yes it is a V-1

Thanks so much for the help!


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

No idea why it doesn't whine like that then 

A Blow-Off Valve is typically used on turbo cars to vent to atmosphere. This is not ideal on MAF cars like ours since it's removing metered air from the system. You can vent if you're running standalone.
Otherwise, you would need to recirculate the air back into the system which is exactly what a diverter valve does.


----------



## DaMenace (Nov 1, 2008)

prometheus_ said:


> No idea why it doesn't whine like that then
> 
> Otherwise, you would need to recirculate the air back into the system which is exactly what a diverter valve does.


So the recirculating blow off will make that woooosh sound. Right? thats the sound you were saying? and would that recirculating blowoff work just like the dv?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

there will be a woosh with a DV, you probably wont hear it over the car&charger until high boost


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

DaMenace said:


> I have a 1997 GTI VR6SC (AMS kit with V-1). It's almost a stage2! LOL I'll explain. I have the 4" MAF installed, I have the chip stage2 GIAC at my house waiting for the injectors. I do not have a DV or water-meth system or inter-cooler. Do I need any of these to be able to run Stage 2 comfortably without breaking anything?
> 
> I am buying some 440cc injectors to go with my stage 2 GIAC chip. I was told that I also need to install a DV or blow-off because I can break my supercharger (is this true?) What DV or blow-off should I get?
> 
> ...


read this post... LINK



DaMenace said:


> So the recirculating blow off will make that woooosh sound. Right? thats the sound you were saying? and would that recirculating blowoff work just like the dv?


DV's and recirc'd BOV's (yes, they work exactly the same) will make some sound, but they are muffled since routed back into the intake (must be post-MAF). However, each brand of BOV or DV will be different. I'm venting my Synapse to atmosphere and it makes very little noise. However, the Greddy RS I used last year was definitely audible (BOV vented to atmosphere). I get the desire for the sound, but be more concerned about proper operation... it sux to be constantly tinkering with a BOV/DV to get it right. Diapragm units can be tricky to get adjusted to stay closed at ~ -16hg to -18hg (approx. vacuum at idle). The Synapse required no adjustment at all and has been a perfect performance wise. It stays open until boost is reached due to its piston design, and it's super responsive.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Public service announcement!*

Do not use ECS's Crank Pulleys. The keys are wrong and will not engage properly with your crank, potentially causing damage to your crank/falling off under driving conditions. Nate will back this up.

I just verified via my CMM machine to the original crank dimensions and the key is .050" too short.

Will update if ECS corrects the problem on their manufacturing and engineering end.

-Noah


----------



## DaMenace (Nov 1, 2008)

prometheus_ said:


> *@Rajiv,*
> You can use an OEM 710N diverter valve from a Audi TT 1.8t or one from Forge or Vortech. You could also use a recirculating BOV (ie: HKS SSQV, Greddy Type-s), but they offer no gains other than a different sound.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HKS-...Q5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_5185wt_1165

Is that the HKS you said?


----------



## mushroom_curry (Apr 21, 2004)

DeckManDubs said:


> *Public service announcement!*
> 
> Do not use ECS's Crank Pulleys. The keys are wrong and will not engage properly with your crank, potentially causing damage to your crank/falling off under driving conditions. Nate will back this up.
> 
> ...


Is this their replacement crank pulley or a "lightened" option they provide?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

DaMenace said:


> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HKS-...Q5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_5185wt_1165
> 
> Is that the HKS you said?


There are several variants on the device, you need to get the recirculation addon


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

mushroom_curry said:


> Is this their replacement crank pulley or a "lightened" option they provide?


I would like to know as well, since I have a lightened set yet to be installed. 

Deckman, since the keys are wrong, are you offering a proper key for the setup?


----------



## mushroom_curry (Apr 21, 2004)

^ Same.

If I ran into an issue with a crank popping off I would physically go to ECS and go apesh_i_t on people.


----------



## DaMenace (Nov 1, 2008)

lotar_6 said:


> DV's and recirc'd BOV's (yes, they work exactly the same) will make some sound, but they are muffled since routed back into the intake (must be post-MAF). However, each brand of BOV or DV will be different. I'm venting my Synapse to atmosphere and it makes very little noise. However, the Greddy RS I used last year was definitely audible (BOV vented to atmosphere). I get the desire for the sound, but be more concerned about proper operation... it sux to be constantly tinkering with a BOV/DV to get it right. Diapragm units can be tricky to get adjusted to stay closed at ~ -16hg to -18hg (approx. vacuum at idle). The Synapse required no adjustment at all and has been a perfect performance wise. It stays open until boost is reached due to its piston design, and it's super responsive.


So what do you recommend I use? Which one seems to be the best one? I really dont care about the sound I was just asking. I want the one that work the best for my car.


----------



## lotar_6 (Jan 16, 2004)

I've never been a fan of ECS... worst customer service evar!!!



DaMenace said:


> So what do you recommend I use? Which one seems to be the best one? I really dont care about the sound I was just asking. I want the one that work the best for my car.


I've only had experience with the Greddy RS and the Synapse. Stay away from Greddy is all I can say. I've heard many people praise the Vortech bypass, HKS bov's, and Tial. I'd recommend the Synapse, but it is a fairly larg unit that you'll have to figure out how to fit. Do some searching/reading and don't base your decision on price. If you want something cheap, just use the Bosch DV and be prepared to replace it every so often when the diaphragm tears.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

DeckManDubs said:


> *Public service announcement!*
> 
> Do not use ECS's Crank Pulleys. The keys are wrong and will not engage properly with your crank, potentially causing damage to your crank/falling off under driving conditions. Nate will back this up.
> 
> ...


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)




----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

All this busted stuff makes me sad... is this the same with 1.8ts? My buddy just got ecs pulleys for his...


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

I've had serious problems with two OEM dampners. The early dampner wiggled and tried to fall off, sounded like a bad rod knock. Second was similar but it was a OBD2 dampner. After tightening to spec with new bolts each time plus Loctite it would loosen after about 4 days. Now it stays tight with a hardened bolt and Nordlock. The nose of the crank was damaged slightly but it was able to salvage it with a metal file and some patience.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Fixed my hesitation issue, can now rip above 4k.
Was a bad rotor


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Anyone looking for a 24v or R32 supercharger kit? The buyer who put a deposit on my kit 6 months ago is now unresponsive.  Its a VF Stg2 for a mk4 24v (8psi), but is interchangeable to the R32 with the proper tuning. PM me if interested.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

euroguy666 said:


> All this busted stuff makes me sad... is this the same with 1.8ts? My buddy just got ecs pulleys for his...


Could be, If you send me a stock 1.8t pulley and the ECS one I can throw it on the CMM and check for the positioning to ensure the key is deep enough.


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

DeckManDubs said:


> Could be, If you send me a stock 1.8t pulley and the ECS one I can throw it on the CMM and check for the positioning to ensure the key is deep enough.


I can send you a vr pulley as I haven't installed it yet to make sure. Let me know because I would rather take care of this before the same thing happens to me. TIA


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

littlenr said:


>


mine has been on my car for a while now with no problems at all.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

92jetta9a said:


> I can send you a vr pulley as I haven't installed it yet to make sure. Let me know because I would rather take care of this before the same thing happens to me. TIA


Drop me an email @ [email protected] for shipping details.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

mk4vrjtta said:


> mine has been on my car for a while now with no problems at all.


was it paired to a axillary cog pulley? I think the extra tq had something to do with the key shearing off.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

littlenr said:


> was it paired to a axillary cog pulley? I think the extra tq had something to do with the key shearing off.


no aux cogged pulley. just a single idler setup.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Serp setups are less load do to their design to slip...A V1 or V2 blower uses 50hp+ to spin to full load. Without full key depth it will take out the key.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

DeckManDubs said:


> Serp setups are less load do to their design to slip...A V1 or V2 blower uses 50hp+ to spin to full load. Without full key depth it will take out the key.


makes sense :thumbup:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

mk4vrjtta said:


> mine has been on my car for a while now with no problems at all.












I didn't have the belts run up to the correct places. The clearance was so tight I had to drop the motor and put the belts on the crank pulleys first. Then put the motor back in place to install the charger bracket.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

this should give an idea of how its in there and the tq applied to the crank pulley key


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

DeckManDubs said:


> Drop me an email @ [email protected] for shipping details.


email sent :thumbup:


----------



## bmxdarcy (Mar 7, 2006)

KubotaPowered said:


> I've had serious problems with two OEM dampners. The early dampner wiggled and tried to fall off, sounded like a bad rod knock. Second was similar but it was a OBD2 dampner. After tightening to spec with new bolts each time plus Loctite it would loosen after about 4 days. Now it stays tight with a hardened bolt and Nordlock. The nose of the crank was damaged slightly but it was able to salvage it with a metal file and some patience.



where did you get your hardened bolt for the crank?

I contacted ATI about building a damper for my car and they suggested a second keyway in the crank. The snouts on these cranks are very short therefore adding extra load can cause problems.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

bmxdarcy said:


> where did you get your hardened bolt for the crank?
> 
> I contacted ATI about building a damper for my car and they suggested a second keyway in the crank. The snouts on these cranks are very short therefore adding extra load can cause problems.


I went through Fastenal for the bolt and Nordlock. There was only one store in the country that had the proper bolt and Nordlock.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

One way to find out how tight your clamps REALLY are;
Up the boost, go for a rip.

Had a big ol' vacuum leak on the highway and the motor stalled out @ a police stop :banghead:
Good thing the cops didn't know what they were looking @ or for while I plugged the leak.

Cop 1- "I Don't think you've got a leak anywhere, I don't see anything dripping"
Cop 2- "Yea, I think you're belt is the problem, doesn't sound like it's working right"

:laugh::laugh:


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

sorry guys, random question (didn't feel like starting a new thread for it). Does anyone know what bolts are used to attach the caliper carriers to the spindle on mk3? I know they are m12 but what is the thread pitch, 1.75? :beer:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

obdONE said:


> sorry guys, random question (didn't feel like starting a new thread for it). Does anyone know what bolts are used to attach the caliper carriers to the spindle on mk3? I know they are m12 but what is the thread pitch, 1.75? :beer:


Jamie, they should be M12x1.25 as they are a fine pitch thread.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

thanks Noah, knew you'd chime in. :thumbup:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I didn't realize that the cog setup was ADDITIONAL to the pulleys..
or is that mk4 only :sly:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

prometheus_ said:


> I didn't realize that the cog setup was ADDITIONAL to the pulleys..
> or is that mk4 only :sly:


mk4 axillary drive.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Ah gotcha. Figured it was some mk4 hoodoo.
in other , has anyone tried those carbonite coated pulleys?
Thinking of ordering a 2.90 for my single idler setup.


----------



## mushroom_curry (Apr 21, 2004)

Soon going to put my $$ down on a Rotrex charger, seems like there isn't much out there that spools quicker and is as small.

Anyone else have anything to add before I go forward with the purchase?? Maybe another charger to consider?

Aim is to install this down where the AC would otherwise be installed, going up into my Wagner tuning intake manifold, like so:










But it's clear there's a clearance issue with that inlet there. :facepalm:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

^ just come out thursday and take a gander at the glx (assuming its not raining).
or i'll see you on the weekend if you're going to any of the shows.

edit:
been doing some research on those carbonite pulleys.
apparently they grip, but shred belts like crazy :sly:
the company recommends rolling with gates fleet runner belts, but i dont know how the belt lengths are measured by the gates codes


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

mushroom_curry said:


> Soon going to put my $$ down on a Rotrex charger, seems like there isn't much out there that spools quicker and is as small.
> 
> Anyone else have anything to add before I go forward with the purchase?? Maybe another charger to consider?
> 
> ...


I would talk to Isaam Abed if you're interested in Rotrex. He can build you a better kit for less money. I was thinking of doing this too until I wised up and bought a turbo. :laugh:





prometheus_ said:


> ^ just come out thursday and take a gander at the glx (assuming its not raining).
> or i'll see you on the weekend if you're going to any of the shows.
> 
> edit:
> ...


I have been wanting someone to get one of those carbonite pulleys. Do it!

I have a brand new fleet runner belt I'll sell you if you want. I had it on a v9 with no a/c, VF single idler, 2.5" pulley.

K060529HD - 6= 6 rib, 529 = 52.9"


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

Here's the link to the Gates eCatalogue, incase you want a different length than 53"

http://www.gatespowerpro.com/Comerg...nchInID=600500&CFID=35458452&CFTOKEN=12586049


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Jamie, I love the new color. Always loved that color after seeing it on Champions F77 project car!


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

DeckManDubs said:


> Jamie, I love the new color. Always loved that color after seeing it on Champions F77 project car!


thanks noah! I love it too. I just hope that I can keep the Molotov cocktail I've been brandishing at it lately, away. I have an electrical problem somewhere deep in the heart that is making me hate my car and want to take it out, Office Space style...


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Anyone have a ballpark belt size for my setup? Single idler v2 3.12" pulley. No ps no ac. Its just about go time! And any suggestions on brands? I hear dayco belts are really good


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

obdONE said:


> thanks noah! I love it too. I just hope that I can keep the Molotov cocktail I've been brandishing at it lately, away. I have an electrical problem somewhere deep in the heart that is making me hate my car and want to take it out, Office Space style...


Hang in there buddy. :beer::beer:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I'll probably order a 2.87 or 2.90 pulley from Carbonite and belt from Gates.
Won't be for a couple weeks, I'm just a little hesitant considering the Mustang guys don't even run the pulleys since they shred belts so fast :what:


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

It could be in part, due to the fact they produce more torque than we do, but just a speculation.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

A good reason to be sure, but then you read things like 



> they're basically making your pulley grooves sandpaper. It's going to grip, but god help you if it slips.





> However when it did slip (low RPM, high load conditions) there was belt dust EVERYWHERE.


You start to wonder if it's worth spending $200+ on a pulley and just save for cogs


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

we won't know unless anyone tries it on our motors? hmm?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

i'll still probably do it, but will likely be doing 3" DP back first


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

You are probably better just sending your pulley to get anodized. That coating will be tacky. When I ran v-belt drive for my charger my smaller pulley which was on the charger didn't slip. I slipped on my bare aluminum crank pulley. Once it got dirty it stopped slipping.....


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Yea I've also heard of people media blasting the pulley and getting it hard anodized.
Frankly I'll be spending the same amount of money either way. I need a proper sized pulley to begin with as 2.75 is much too small :thumbdown:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

prometheus_ said:


> Yea I've also heard of people media blasting the pulley and getting it hard anodized.
> Frankly I'll be spending the same amount of money either way. I need a proper sized pulley to begin with as 2.75 is much too small :thumbdown:


which charger are you running? V9 will be fine with 2.75! Don't chicken out!opcorn:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

A V1 of course 
What's this V9 you speak of :laugh:


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

^^ I posted all that info on fleet runner belts for you and you didn't even respond to it?? :thumbdown:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

obdONE said:


> ^^ I posted all that info on fleet runner belts for you and you didn't even respond to it?? :thumbdown:


Didn't see it, must have caught you between posts 
Ye, I've got some belt numbers and will do some measuring, thanks :thumbup:

I've got some heavy bills to (mostly) pay off before I start ordering more toys, so I'll probably start tweaking things in mid-late July.

Quick question;
How much boost should I be able to run before I start having compression related issues?
I'm running a 12v dizzy motor with a mk4 hg (fail, i know) and a V1.
Basically I'd like to keep that hg for as long as I can. So if it means running a front mount or meth to keep it for a bit longer, I'm cool with that.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

10psi to 12psi should be plenty for you with mk4 compression and a V1. Just be sure to have the correct amount of fuel!


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

So nobody really runs no ac no ps?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

euroguy666 said:


> So nobody really runs no ac no ps?


Whats the point? I run ac ps! ITs a fwd VW.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

^this.
Only reason I deleted AC was because it stopped working and I never really used it to begin with.
PS on the other hand, will be fixed if it breaks


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

littlenr said:


> Whats the point? I run ac ps! ITs a fwd VW.


Thank you, it answered my question... its bc my ps lines were rusted and looked like crap in my shaved bay. And as for ac, never use it. I have a mazda 3 that's brand new and I rarely use my ac. But a simple, no I don't have a belt size for you would do


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

euroguy666 said:


> Thank you, it answered my question... its bc my ps lines were rusted and looked like crap in my shaved bay. And as for ac, never use it. I have a mazda 3 that's brand new and I rarely use my ac. But a simple, no I don't have a belt size for you would do


hahaa... 



I don't have the belt size. Sorry. Its in this thread somewhere!


----------



## 07Blanch (Sep 1, 2007)

I haven't really posted much in here but I have read all of it! Thanks for everyone posting their successes and failures. It provided me some good help when installing my V9.

With that said, she's alive!! :thumbup:

MK4 R32 with VF's stage 2 V9 setup. Double checked everything the other day, turned the ignition on and scanned for anything, clean!

Turned the key and she fired right up! Scanned again, still clean! A little bit of belt squeal at the start but then everything settled down. 

I filled up my coolant and power steering fluids, let her warm up (wanted to make sure my new lo-temp thermostat was working) to 190 and stayed spot on.

Also, my boost gauge showed 20 vacuum and held steady, so no leaks!

Took her for a spin! Felt great just to be back in the car! Vacuum still held steady at 20 but I didn't get into much boost at all as my front bumper and headlight are still off. Ran great, just like stock except for some extra noise  but I have yet to really get on it with the weather. 

Only issue I have found so far was a bit of oil leaking from the oil feed line at the oil filter housing. Gonna tighten that up and hope it stops. Everything else looks and sounds good!

Can you guys recommend anything else to look for? I plan to borrow my friends Vag-Com soon to check my A/F ratios! I can't wait to really get on this thing, the sound alone it worth it!!


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

put some miles on it. Then check the belt tension. Also be sure that the oil feed line has tefflon on the threads. Putting steel/brass into aluminum with out it will allow seeping.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Okay does dayco consider our belts to be 8 rib? I have a longer belt that's a dayco and looked up the part number and it says its an 8 rib. But four seasons sells 7 rib belts for our kits. Wtfff


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

a proper length 7 rib belt is not manufactured. 8 rib versions are. You simply/easily cut off 1 of the ribs.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Wait? Wat? Lol u mean they don't make 7 rib? They sell them. Or is that not what u mean


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

what he is saying is, they do not make the proper length in a 7 rib belt, buy the proper length belt in a 8 rib and cut 1 rib off:thumbup:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Belts are made in 10rib....then cut to 8/7/6 ribs per application


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

isnt really supercharged related, but just thought id share. busted the pan on a manhole yesterday while i was on my way to school, didnt see it till it was too late :banghead:. just put a new pan on today though:beer:




















and the pan...


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Put roughly 1400km of relatively nonstop driving this weekend.
Happy to say I've had no charger related issues so far


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I'm wondering if anyone has ever used this calculator:
http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/glossary/turbo_calc.shtml

edit: disregard, volumetric efficiency was waaaay off 
keeping the tool in the post since its mighty handy if you've got the numbers to fill the blanks


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

Another update. I had been having this odd issue with the idle AFR never staying the same. So I thought maybe I had some sort of vacuum leak. This weekend I removed all the plumbing and the diverter valves. Then did a short run straight to the throttle from the charger. Now the idle AFR is always the same at about 15.5-16 with vacuum at 18hg. So if your having this sort of issue with the idle AFR always acting funny look for those hard to find leaks.


----------



## vdubstreets (Apr 26, 2004)

does anyone know the specs to this bolt? One of the last things I need for my build.

Also how does it mount, is it a bolt and a washer and nut?


----------



## 07Blanch (Sep 1, 2007)

littlenr said:


> put some miles on it. Then check the belt tension. Also be sure that the oil feed line has tefflon on the threads. Putting steel/brass into aluminum with out it will allow seeping.


I tightened the oil feed line again so it isn't leaking now. Will continue to check it after each ride though. I thought in the VF instructions it said not to use teflon on the threads b/c if it enters the oil stream and gets to the charger it could plug the oil passageways, no? 

Haven't gotten to drive it all that much but so far so good. Seems to be running very smooth and stock like. Only complaint I have is some belt squeal at start up. But it goes away after a few seconds. Sound like anything to worry about?

Thanks guys :thumbup:


----------



## 07Blanch (Sep 1, 2007)

vdubstreets said:


> does anyone know the specs to this bolt? One of the last things I need for my build.
> 
> Also how does it mount, is it a bolt and a washer and nut?


I believe that is the charger adjustment bolt. there should be the bolt, washer and nut. I think its a 1/2-20 x 1.25 long but the experts will chime in also.


----------



## vdubstreets (Apr 26, 2004)

does the bolt feed the way it is shown in the picture or does it feed throuhg the other side?

Does anyone have the manual for this style charger I only have VF manual's with the AMS 
charger style.




07Blanch said:


> I believe that is the charger adjustment bolt. there should be the bolt, washer and nut. I think its a 1/2-20 x 1.25 long but the experts will chime in also.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

vdubstreets said:


> does the bolt feed the way it is shown in the picture or does it feed throuhg the other side?
> 
> Does anyone have the manual for this style charger I only have VF manual's with the AMS
> charger style.


the top bolt goes through from the other side, the bottom bolt is correct :beer:


----------



## G_Lader_91 (Dec 28, 2006)

My V9 started making a howling noise at 3k and above. I just recently went stg 2, with around 20k on the charger no problems. And it started leaking and doing this :banghead:

Anyone know of a credible vortech rebuilder besides vortech? I am a machinst and have the capability to rebuild the unit in my shop. Just looking for parts kits and a worst case rebuilder of this unit. I'd hate to pay vortech 600 just to open my charger, when it can be done with quality internals for a fraction of the price.

Thanks guys,

Nathan :wave:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

coatofarms said:


> My V9 started making a howling noise at 3k and above. I just recently went stg 2, with around 20k on the charger no problems. And it started leaking and doing this :banghead:
> 
> Anyone know of a credible vortech rebuilder besides vortech? I am a machinst and have the capability to rebuild the unit in my shop. Just looking for parts kits and a worst case rebuilder of this unit. I'd hate to pay vortech 600 just to open my charger, when it can be done with quality internals for a fraction of the price.
> 
> ...


superchargerrebuilds.com or 928motorsports.com


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Got my exhaust done yesterday, probably a tad loud 
Going to the track on Friday and throwing on a muffler on Saturday lol






Wish me luck and hope I don't break anything!


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Almostttt....


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I've got a question.
I'm going to be looking into a FMIC, but I've no idea how to run them with a normal intake manifold.

Anyone have any pictures of such a setup? All the ones I have are of side mount or fmic with short runners.

Also, think it would be safe to run 14psi with fmic & mk4 hg?


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

question

4 bar regulator can be the cause of intterupts on high rpm's??
fuel pump walbro 255

car goes as it wants...sometimes run as hell sometimes not...i think that can be some fuel issue

vf stage 2 software

plugs bosch platinium new beru cables


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

It's more likely to be that walbro 255 and the platinum plugs. There's no need for the walbro and go back to copper plugs like ngk bkr7e. 

Also, the vf software runs lean if you have cams, etc.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

likely the ignition timing is being pulled. intake/outside temps, barometric pressure, etc will all effect this.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

Praks said:


> question
> 
> 4 bar regulator can be the cause of intterupts on high rpm's??
> fuel pump walbro 255
> ...


what are your plugs gapped at?


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

websaabn said:


> what are your plugs gapped at?


what do you mean?


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

anyone know where to get a gator back for a mk4 non ac car?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

2PointGoGoGo said:


> anyone know where to get a gator back for a mk4 non ac car?


O'Rieghly's sells Gator back.


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

thank you, I will check there.:thumbup:


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

Praks said:


> question
> 
> 4 bar regulator can be the cause of intterupts on high rpm's??
> fuel pump walbro 255
> ...


...another thing, check your fuel pressure under load. (on a dyno) You'll need an inline gauge.

possibly the main pump cant feed the walbro. 

Not many ppl realize this but an inline but is actually quite a goffy set up. It reduces some of the duty of the main pump, but is still being fed by the main pump. :screwy:
what a better system would be is either a surge tank for the inline to draw from w/o starving the main or like 034's 044 inside a surge tank. 

anyhow, it looks like you have a 95/obd1. depending on conditions(yes, weather again) & your boost levels the smaller MAF often exceeds voltage limits & peaks (5v) causing the ecu to cut fuel, this feels like you hit a rev limiter. more noticable w/ higher boost & Mk4 HG as compression/timing required even more fuel.

VF software already uses a MAF load clamp to reduce voltage(* & they tune for it), but as we all know, adding mods like cams, MK HG, DP, etc to VF kits tends to make things lean even more.....time for a proper dyno.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

A stage2 chip on a v9 is enough to max out the dizzy maf??
That sounds pretty contrary to what I've been reading over the course of the thread.


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

i have one pump in tank...walbro inside oem system but i think that can be also problem because it not fits well in it...

i've allready have all stuff like vems, metal gasket,smaller pulley and etc. to go for more power and realiabity but i want to put it in winter, now i want just to drive good to the end of the season...

so im searching what can be not right...also the car run very rich


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I am half leaning towards spark plugs and rotor.

I've heard horror stories about platinum plugs. Try changing them over to some copper plugs in the correct heat range and see if that fixes it. Copper wears out quick, but its cheaper to try than say, Iridium.

Assuming you're using distributor VR (4bar fpr only came dizzy vr) and not coilpack, check your rotor. Pop off the dizzy cap and see if there is any play in the rotor.

I had a similar problem @ high rpm when the engine was at operating temperatures.
Turned out the rotor had a TON of play in it so when the car was trying to advance timing it wasn't exactly accurate. Changed it over for a new rotor & adhesive with zero play and my problem was solved. You can get the aftermarket rotor from the stealership for about $30.

If it's not any of those, try looking up some dizzy vr issues, not specifically supercharged ones. You'll get many more possible answers.

Edit: Depending on how old your distributor is (if it IS dizzy), you're ground may be corroded or the hall sensor (part of teh actual distributor) could be damaged/old.

I thought mine was fuelling too, but a new rotor and plugs is much cheaper to test


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

everything is fresh and new...all sensor also...4 bar fr is from 2.9 vr...

plugs earlier were stock ngk and it was the same problem...

in weekend i'll check it with vag and maybe check fuell pressure...

slipping belt could do that interuptions??


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

@ Praks
- Does it happen consistently at a specific rpm
- Does it only happen at full throttle
- Does it happen when teh car is at operating temp and out of cold-start

Check coolant sensors (mainly blue), if its not new, replace it.
My car would only run poorly when it was warmed up and at full throttle when it hit about 4000rpm, every time.

Like I said, if it's a distributor motor, even if it's new, I'd check the rotor. Takes 5 minutes, and if it has more than say.. 5 degrees of play it's probably the issue.

Also check the throttle plate, it may be set too far.

Other than that I'm out of ideas.
MAF turbulence maybe?

Unless you're running really rich up top, I'm doubtful it's being caused by slippage. It would need to be like you were going to&from full to zero boost really fast. Slippage doesn't work like that.


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

prometheus_ said:


> @ Praks
> - Does it happen consistently at a specific rpm
> - Does it only happen at full throttle
> - Does it happen when teh car is at operating temp and out of cold-start
> ...


-no sometimes car runs good till end sometimes on high rpm interupts...still accelerating but weaker

-yes

-i dont max out if its cold...

blue sensor is new original vw

don't understand that part

"distributor motor, even if it's new, I'd check the rotor. Takes 5 minutes, and if it has more than say.. 5 degree"

what u mean by distributor motor and check the rotor?

rich in overall...half of fuel goes in exhaust...but on high rpm feels like its lean


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I meant distributor rotor. Brain fart 

That's teh guy there. It's possible no adhesive was applied or it was damaged on install









If you actually using a coilpack, then disregard this whole thing :laugh:


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

i use coilpack :banghead::laugh:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Sound like you need to use a colder heat range of spark plugs. OR gap the plugs you have tighter. 

Mine are gaped at .026 and I run NGK BKR7E (or whatever the new part number is)


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

^ Iuse the same plugs.

Like it was said a couple times before, it could be the platinum plugs.
MOST plugs come pre-gapped, and I'd be suprised if Bosch ones aren't.
Mine came at 0.28 and that's how I've been running them.

Struggling when you're at full throttle and high rpm sounds like timing to me.
Since youre not dizzy, check your cam sensor instead.

Do you have any lightweight parts?
ie: lw crank, lw flywheel

It may simply be a bad coilpack or something


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

the set up I have blows my gap out over time. So I'll install them gaped at .026 and check them from time to time. Sometimes they are .028-.029. Not consistent at all!!!


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Try running an Autolite AR3922 or AR3923 plug or a straight A3922 or A3923. We have seen the spark get blown out on high RPM's with NGK and Bosch plugs. They are cheap and easily found at most places that sell Autolite and they work.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

He says it's only under load though.
How would you check that without a dyno of sorts


----------



## zorak. (Nov 24, 2010)

Hey I tried searching but had no luck.

I have a 12v vr6 with a VF vortech stg 2 S/C kit, 15psi pulley and a stg 2 serpintine belt, c2 chip, cams ect.. but my problem is the intake from the charger is ran down and across the front of the car. Tucked right behind the VR lip hose clamped to the frame. This is how the PO had it and now when I scrape that pipe takes the blow. Is there a diffrent route for the intake?? Do I have to make my own or is it sold? Someone has to have a solution for that.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Are you intercooled or is that just the intake pipe?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

My intake goes right down where the AC & charcoal canisters used to be.
Tight radius cobra head -> bit of metal pipe -> maf -> cone filter

The filter is retarded low, sitting behind my lip, beside the horn. Puddle avoidance tbh.
Point is, I don't have mine running low enough to scrape, and I'm hella low (21.5 fender to ground).


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

I ran the filter behind the right front wheel, behind the fender liner using reinforced neoprene ducting. You just have to lengthen the MAF harness.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

I run a flexible 3" tube off the charger inlet under the lower rad support/subframe (Corrado). My MAF is right near the Front Mount(bottom side) & I extend the flex tubing to the drivers fender area. My filter is under the battery. 
The flexx tubing allows me to tuck this well above my euro lip & contour the tubing as close as possible. this wouldnt really be possible w/ metal tubing(has like 7 tucked-bends. Zip ties/worm clamps secure the tubing.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

KubotaPowered said:


> I ran the filter behind the right front wheel, behind the fender liner using reinforced neoprene ducting. You just have to lengthen the MAF harness.


Have you got puctures? I'd like to see that!
Although, I don't imagine it'd be to great for the lowerd folk


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

what are you guys typically getting for MPG? I think my fuel level sender might be on the fritz but at the same time I get these 'hiccups' when the car is warming up, already aligned the throttle body but part of me things the TB is on its way out as well... just seeing if there could be any connection or ideas you guys have.:thumbup:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

corrected, i get around 450-500km a tank (55l) on undersized wheels with a 3.94 R&P


----------



## zorak. (Nov 24, 2010)

that's my intake now.. I would like to have it up in the engine bay.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

zorak. said:


> that's my intake now.. I would like to have it up in the engine bay.


Omfg that's so much piping, not needed mines going where the charcoal canisters were too


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

old pick on my mk4


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)




----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

similar to mine


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

prometheus_ said:


> Have you got puctures? I'd like to see that!
> Although, I don't imagine it'd be to great for the lowerd folk


This car is hammered, tires are tucked all the way around. At times it does brush the ducting but had it pretty well secured. I say had because I switched to Lugtronic and the MAF and ducting is a thing of the past. 3.5 inch duct clamped on to 3.5 inch pipe and then a silicone transition to 4 inch at the MAF.


----------



## zorak. (Nov 24, 2010)

That's weird you say there's to much piping cause I've been told by several people that the length and size of that intake can't be changed unless its bigger. Its 3 in piping.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

@Kubota, how was that for water?
I might give that a try, although I don't have fender liners at all


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

KubotaPowered said:


> I say had because I switched to Lugtronic and the MAF and ducting is a thing of the past.


Did you end up going with a filter on the charger inlet? We had talked about the K&N RC 3180 filter a couple months back and I wasn't sure how it would fit, did you use that? I need to replace mine when I get back from Iraq.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

prometheus_ said:


> @Kubota, how was that for water?
> I might give that a try, although I don't have fender liners at all


I never had a problem with it. I changed it up slightly since those pictures. Used a new liner and took off very minimal material for clearance up top. My only suggestion would be to run a filter sock you can rinse off as the filter does like to get dirty quicker. Lastly, if you run a recirc'd DV you will need to put that in there somewhere. I used a piece of scrap 3.5 inch pipe and spliced it in just before the charger. 



crazysccrmd said:


> Did you end up going with a filter on the charger inlet? We had talked about the K&N RC 3180 filter a couple months back and I wasn't sure how it would fit, did you use that? I need to replace mine when I get back from Iraq.


It fits quite well, had to remove the headlight to install it though. I took a 1/2 inch copper pipe cap and soldered it on to the nipple to close it off, followed it up with some black spray paint. Works quite well!


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

^ how do you like the Lugtronics? honestly.. whats the real drivability like, the performance, etc? Are you 110% happy w/ it? 

it is a serious option for me


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

^ and me, since I'm probably going to be maxxing out my maf before the summer is out :facepalm:


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

prometheus_ said:


> ^ and me, since I'm probably going to be maxxing out my maf before the summer is out :facepalm:


i don't have lugtronic, but I did the research before buying my MS, so I'll inject my $.02. If you have the money for lugtronic and aren't able to tune yourself, I don't think there's a better option. Plug and play, easy-peasy, and Kevin will help you tune your car. big, big :thumbup:

now, that being said, if you can tune, or are willing to learn, MS is the better option. You can get an MS3 system with a plug and play harness for probably $1000 less than lugtronic. And even if you can't really tune, TunerStudio (MS tuning software) has an option called autotune that will literally tune your car for you. You just turn it on and go out for a drive. Probably won't be able to do the high power end of it, but can sure do the driveability part :thumbup:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

If I end up postponing it until winter, I'll probably do MS3 over lugtronic, since I wont be driving my car on the road


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

CorradoMagic said:


> ^ how do you like the Lugtronics? honestly.. whats the real drivability like, the performance, etc? Are you 110% happy w/ it?
> 
> it is a serious option for me





prometheus_ said:


> ^ and me, since I'm probably going to be maxxing out my maf before the summer is out :facepalm:



Once I got the idle dialed in I have been happy with it. I kept cruise, AC, power steering, everything except the MPG readout on the MFA. I haven't dyno'd yet but I went from 17mpg on 440cc injectors to 25mpgs on the same injectors. I'm happy with it, just need to get the w/m system running through the ECU and I can tune it fully. If you are looking for something more, its a great option. I'm hoping to do more than the previous 310whp once its all set up


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

My idle is run off the set screw, as I don't have anything that isn't absolutely required.
No EGR, EVAP, ISV...

In other (ironically related) news, I'm fortunate enough to have a spare ECM because my current one just took a massive **** on the highway coming home tonight. My ECM was suspended since I changed harnesses (too short to mount proper), and it appears my net that was holding it had unhook at some point. Went over a frost heave on the highway, car backfires a big ol' fireball and I lose throttle.

Car wouldn't turn over, but everything was working and reeked of gas.
Good thing I wasn't alone and was cruising with friends. We figure some of those wonderful old VW soldering chipped off during the bump. Changed over the ECM to a stock one and it fired right up.

Ran like ass as I babied all the way to the shop.

What a night :banghead:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

So I think my C2 chip is starting to go :banghead:
Basically, yesterday one ECM stopped working and I drove it home with another.
Today I pulled the chip out of it and put it in the *working* ecm. Went to the track was doing fine and dandy, then bam, it happened again. I swapped ECMs again and babied it back to a buddies place. When I got there I plugged the ECM w/ the C2 chip back in and the car fired right up.

I don't know wtf, the only difference of things that are happening is that one ECU has the chip and the other doesnt. And both ECMs have ****ed off after switching the chip, only to start working again a few hours later.

Ideas? I'm going to fire an email to C2, hopefully they can help me out.
If not, I'm not sure if it's worth me spending $350 on another chip when (as previously mentioned), I have the option for MS3 for the same price, if not less

BTW, my fastest time with full interior / gas / my daily tires (Falken 502), 14.6 @ 101.2mph
2.3s 60' :facepalm:


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

And thus the era of bizarre, undefineable c2 related problems begins for you. What tune are you on 36#?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

30# Dizzy


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

That's why i'm not switching away from my AMS tune until I make the move to standalone. It might not make a ton of power for the boost level I get but it most definitely is reliable and consistent each and every day.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I think something is shorting or loose.
I'm currently keeping the car out of boost on a basic TT chip to see if it happens again.

If it doesn't, it's probably C2.
If it does, it's got to be something else.

The first time it happend was after I went over a bump. Nothing massive or anything, but that's when it died. I'm just not sure what it is as I was running it all day on Saturday with no problems.. until it died on the strip with a massive fireball out the tailpipe :facepalm:


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

^ are your MAF harness wires pinched or chaffed at all? sounds like a common MAF issue. happened when extended harness' are routed through the frame rail. I've been there.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

CorradoMagic said:


> ^ are your MAF harness wires pinched or chaffed at all? sounds like a common MAF issue. happened when extended harness' are routed through the frame rail. I've been there.


 Would that cause the car to up and die though? 
I mean, I've driven the car with the MAF unplugged


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

Praks said:


> question
> 
> 4 bar regulator can be the cause of intterupts on high rpm's??
> fuel pump walbro 255
> ...


 lambda probe broken...got new one and car runs as hell (for now  ) 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOVy9K8mZaM 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DW_EFQq-6nc


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

prometheus_ said:


> Would that cause the car to up and die though?
> I mean, I've driven the car with the MAF unplugged


 
no MAF on a boosted car? Chip tune? how are you fueling? 
it'd be worth looking at the wires. They dont have tp be connected to short out/cross (ie chaffed, etc)


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

So I have an interesting issue I haven't been able to resolve yet... about a week or more ago, drove to get some propane for the grill, car fired right up in the morning, drove to the place, waited for the propane, hopped back in, car turns over but doesn't start. Friend came over, tried jumping as the battery had sorta died after my trying... no go, pushed it down a hill popped the clutch, no go, swapped with his battery, no go. 

Get the car towed home, replace the plugs, the ESS, the ignition switch, trickle charge the battery for a couple days, turns over, no dice. Pulled the valve cover, timing chains still solid, cams turn when turning over the engine. Put an inline spark tester on, spark is there. Loosened the fuel line on the backside of the FPR and fuel squirted when turning over plus I hear the fuel pump buzz when I turn the key to on. 

It's a 2002 12v w stage 2 vf kit, SRI, 262 cams, lifters, springs, MSD ignition conversion, stage 2 WMI. 

Anyone have an idea at this point? I guess my next line is to pull the fuel rail and make sure fuel is getting to the injectors, but am I missing a sensor or something? 

I don't have a VAG-COM but I do have an obdii cable with the free software, gonna see if anything comes up with that tonight. 

Any help at all would be majorly beneficial. :banghead:


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

I had an issue similar to this years ago, but it was on an Mk3 OBD2. I found that if I removed the ECU [simply disconnected it and reconnected it with a minute wait], the car would start right up. It ended up being the AMS chip and/or socket. I doubt it will work on your application, but it wouldn't hurt to try.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

Any suggestion at this point is a good one.  I will try that this evening, thanks for the tip.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

crank sensor. crank sensor. crank sensor. man this seems to be happening a lot lately. Should be able to get one for about $50. Easy replacement and can only help your car in the long run.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

CorradoMagic said:


> no MAF on a boosted car? Chip tune? how are you fueling?
> it'd be worth looking at the wires. They dont have tp be connected to short out/cross (ie chaffed, etc)


 not that big of a deal to run without the MAF. Just means part throttle is going to be ass. But WOT without a MAF is the same as WOT with a MAF, so you'll still be fast at least. Just going to hate your car in-between. :laugh:


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

I did... ESS/crankshaft position sensor... but thanks.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

check the harness connection. mine was intermittent. sometimes would fire, sometimes only crank and no fire. But if I reached down there and shook the wires, 9/10 it would fire. so maybe you have a bad connection there. 

also maybe check the cam sensor. Those are the two that would prevent it from running, as far as I know. They're also both reference sensors, not threshold, so neither would throw a code if they are bad. 

if not, then I would check the ecu. you have a friend with a stock ecu you can swap in? car will start-up with a stock one, its just wont drive really. 

good luck.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

thanks for those tips as well, cam sensor is the Hall sensor, right? the expensive one... anyone know the resistance for testing that one? I know the crank was 500-700 ohms


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I'm going to double check my ecm relay (109) 
Could be taking a **** on me


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

Yes, hall sensor. Dont know resistance. Check the bentley I'm sure it's in there. 


Relay 109 is prone to failure in our older cars, especially in high heat situations which I magine there aren't too many of in Ontario. It has been replaced by a new part number. I have a spare one if you need one as I just replaced mine too. It was not the problem for me.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Went out and replaced the relay, was $30 from the stealership. 
I think I had knocked it a little loose when I reinstalled (you heard me) my door chime :facepalm: 

I removed the chime again, and pulled the ecu relay to see it had a charred prong. Replaced that ish and hopefully I shouldn't have anymore issues of the sort


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

My bentley is at a friend's who just swapped a 3.2 into his 4 door golf... hopefully have that back soon. I'll look under the dash at the 109 relay and see if it looks okay, yank it out and test it if I can. Although mine is a 2002, do they use the same relay?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

yes, same relay for all 12v (probably 24v and 3.2 as well). If yours is original it probably still isnt the updated part number though. so some food for thought there. $30 is nothing for some peace of mind.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

New brackets available through Four Season Tuning :thumbup:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Is that an integrated support bracket I see??


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Yes, yes it is.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

Are Noah and Phil making these for James or is he sourcing them from somewhere else? Looks like a quality part :thumbup:


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

obdONE said:


> Are Noah and Phil making these for James or is he sourcing them from somewhere else? Looks like a quality part :thumbup:


 I doubt that Phil and Noah are supplying another company.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

After years of redesigning and revising and making improvements to the brackets, I can say that the brackets have never been better. They are lighter in weight and feature anodizing to protect them form the elements and to provide a clean look. Older designs had yellow zinc plating on steel components and natural finish on aluminum components, but now all parts are aluminum and feature 85% of the hardware in stainless steel. With James stepping up and stocking the newest design, further improvements will be developed for those that want to build their own supercharger kit in not only the bracekts, but in additional parts. Phil & Noah make a good product but are not associated with the units pictured above. Here is the original set [circa 1996-2000], notice the rear mounting plate still has the angled back design as compared to the later design below it [circa 2000-2010], which is the same as it was when C2 was marketing the brackets/kits. FYI, all of them have a common connection as to who was involved with the designs, but rather go unmentioned. 



















If you are interested in picking up a set, just give James a shout or if you are in need of a set for a Mk4, contact Phil or Noah for their wonderful Mk4 design that they have developed.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Cool stuff. 
Depending on how much they'll be running for, it may be worthwhile upgrading my whole bracket to keep it clean rather than use a support bracket :sly: 

Either way you look at it, it doesn't matter who's making it really as it's nice to see the supercharger market is still be supported and developed  

Also, still tickles my funny bone to see that people still don't tap the head for that one pesky bolt :laugh: 
I too am guilty


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Yes, not many people tap the head, but thinking backwards, the provision has remained to continue the presence of the provision just in case someone chooses to use it. I can say that next up on the design is to make a rear tie in piece that will fit the 24V [for those running a 24V in a Mk2 or Mk3 - like me]. Hopefully in a couple weeks, I will have one to show all mocked up on my motor. 

I like the flat head screws, which provide a clean look to the brackets when they are mounted to the head. I think it is worth upgrading to the newer design for the obvious reasons. Also, it is possible for fitting a new rear bracket & support on older units, but you will have to talk to James about availability of said parts and if he will make them available. It will all depend on the demand and James is the man to talk to.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

Cool, thanks for that tip, I'll go grab one tonight.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

littlenr said:


> I doubt that Phil and Noah are supplying another company.


 I don't see why not. Would be a good way to make extra money. Start selling wholesale and leave the retail gamble to others. I'm sure they know James anyways and knowing Noah, probably have an amicable relationship with him, so it would have made sense. anyways, just thinking out loud! :beer:


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

That is why I only sell wholesale and not direct to the public.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

obdONE said:


> I don't see why not. Would be a good way to make extra money. Start selling wholesale and leave the retail gamble to others. I'm sure they know James anyways and knowing Noah, probably have an amicable relationship with him, so it would have made sense. anyways, just thinking out loud! :beer:


  

The origin of this style brackets was from Z-Engineering back in the mid 1990's (Now VF-Engineering, they went back to this design with their new kits) 

James lent me a set of brackets to do some design work on to come up with the Support brackets. I did x-design work on both AMS/C2 to ensure that the designs were close enough that we could support parts with the correct design function. 

:beer:


----------



## rhussjr (Aug 7, 2000)

There are many stories as to where the initial design came from. NS Racing (no need to mention who that is...) had been marketing a kit using the desing and had a guy that either created the design or borrowed the design and took it to several companies in the US, and AMS bought into it and marketed it. There is more to the story and several friends are no longer friends from what is to be believed. NS Racing was taken back by this revamped thier kit in in the form of Z-Engineering, which had it's issues and then transformed itself into VF-Engineering and started the V9 series kits (some good and some bad thoughts as to the use of the V9). In around 96, I had an AMS kit that I thought needed improvements and from there, the designs were transferred over and improved upon. I sold bracket kits and complete kits for a while and our top runner kit ran a V5 and made 308 hp to the wheels on pump gas. After being involved in a serious car wreck and seeing limited demand on the kit and moving forward with other ventures, I released the design to C2 Motorsports (via Dean, an associate known between Chris and myself). I kept my HD bracket design and every so often would work on it to improve upon things. Chris marketed it into kits and parts and then stopped production when demand fell off. All are a copy of a copy of a copy..., but the brackets that are now available from James @ Four Season Tuning are the newest design revision available. Though, there is a design that I have yet to prototype a sample of, but improves access to the tensioning mechanism and has provisions for greater belt wrap on the charger and the alternator. James has invested money along with myself to continue to make these available one again. With the introduction of the Vortech V3 / Paxton 1200SL units, and VF using them in thier kits to make ease of installation a breeze, there are many opportunities for individuals to build thier own kit or buy an off the shelf kit to bring back a little of the Mk3 Old Skool to the current VW scene. Take it for what it is worth, I have only been in the scene for nearly 25 years.


----------



## rodgertherabit (Apr 16, 2009)

So Ive read every single page of this thread now, and I think im ready to tackle this challenge. 

I got the VF Stage 2 kit over the weekend and just need to get a few more little things...a Tapped mk3 pan and a bracket or 2 

Only thing Im worried about at this point is, Ive read that VF software doesnt like cams. I just installed 262s 2weeks ago and I would hate to have to take them out :banghead: 

Now, there are a few people who commented with mkiv 12v's like myself with no issues. Is it possible that they change their software at some point or were the issues running lean just for pre mk3's? 

Its no crazy set up, but enough for my daily


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

rhussjr said:


> There are many stories as to where the initial design came from. NS Racing (no need to mention who that is...) had been marketing a kit using the desing and had a guy that either created the design or borrowed the design and took it to several companies in the US, and AMS bought into it and marketed it. There is more to the story and several friends are no longer friends from what is to be believed. NS Racing was taken back by this revamped thier kit in in the form of Z-Engineering, which had it's issues and then transformed itself into VF-Engineering and started the V9 series kits (some good and some bad thoughts as to the use of the V9). In around 96, I had an AMS kit that I thought needed improvements and from there, the designs were transferred over and improved upon. I sold bracket kits and complete kits for a while and our top runner kit ran a V5 and made 308 hp to the wheels on pump gas. After being involved in a serious car wreck and seeing limited demand on the kit and moving forward with other ventures, I released the design to C2 Motorsports (via Dean, an associate known between Chris and myself). I kept my HD bracket design and every so often would work on it to improve upon things. Chris marketed it into kits and parts and then stopped production when demand fell off. All are a copy of a copy of a copy..., but the brackets that are now available from James @ Four Season Tuning are the newest design revision available. Though, there is a design that I have yet to prototype a sample of, but improves access to the tensioning mechanism and has provisions for greater belt wrap on the charger and the alternator. James has invested money along with myself to continue to make these available one again. With the introduction of the Vortech V3 / Paxton 1200SL units, and VF using them in thier kits to make ease of installation a breeze, there are many opportunities for individuals to build thier own kit or buy an off the shelf kit to bring back a little of the Mk3 Old Skool to the current VW scene. Take it for what it is worth, I have only been in the scene for nearly 25 years.


 

nice history lesson. A few parts were left out. Another US based co. that no longer exists. IIRC they were mid-atlantic based & last I heard , in FL. IIRC. that was nearly 5yrs ago. 2 guys 'Euro (XXX)' was the outfit if memory serves me right. Their brackets were duplicated almost 100% by co. 'A' but in the world w/o trademarks/patents, etc & a diminished small biz. they up & disappeared, likely w/ a little chip on their shoulder. 

politics aside, its great to see the progression of design & remaining interest in SC's. 
What needs to properly be developed is a self tensioning/spring loaded type tensioner.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

CorradoMagic said:


> nice history lesson. A few parts were left out. Another US based co. that no longer exists. IIRC they were mid-atlantic based & last I heard , in FL. IIRC. that was nearly 5yrs ago. 2 guys 'Euro (XXX)' was the outfit if memory serves me right. Their brackets were duplicated almost 100% by co. 'A' but in the world w/o trademarks/patents, etc & a diminished small biz. they up & disappeared, likely w/ a little chip on their shoulder.
> 
> politics aside, its great to see the progression of design & remaining interest in SC's.
> What needs to properly be developed is a self tensioning/spring loaded type tensioner.


 I agree on the self tensioning thing. Took me forever to find a good length belt. Oh which btw no ps no ac 3.125 pulley v2 single idler is around 50" give or take a 1/2 inch larger. My buddy has a paxton 2200 on his 08 mustang and he almost had a heart attack when he found out there's no tensioner. He seems to feel as there isn't enough play in the belt stretching and our belts will wear like crazy...


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

There were some parts left out of the story, but to same embarassment or bring up old stories that are better left dead, I know that they were left out for a reason. But a quick run down as to who had what available in the US is this. 

Design comes to the US - several companies were approached......... 

AMS - Vortech - V1 - Out of business 

Z-Engineering - Swiss unit - self lubricating [reliability issues] - NS Racings attempt to gain US Market? Out of business / new company = VF... 

Eurotech - Vortech - V2SQ - quiter and better software [supply issues on parts and kit demand drop off] - Owner involved in other venture 

JRC - Vortech - V1, V2 & V5 - mainly used with standalone - kit demand drop off & bracket design went to C2. Company split into two groups [engine development - with support to DIY & Vendor] & manufacture/engineering firm with support to Vendor] - owner involved in 3 additional ventures 

EIP - Rotrex [never took off and ....] - Out of business.... 

C2 - Vortech - V2? - better software & second belt roller - kit demand drop off - Software & parts for DIY scene 

VF-Engineering - V9 [reliability issues of Vortech?] / Revised to V3 in kits - less focus on SC's?, no support to DIY scene 

FST - Vortech - V1. V2, V3 & V5 bracket kit - 12V fitment 

Verdict - Vortech - Various fitment, but main focus on Mk4 & cogged belt 

The issue wtih the self tensioning is finding and fitting a strong enough tensioner to held the belt tight. 

As for fitment of a Vortech onto the 24V motor in a Mk2 or Mk3, the FST brackets will fit and function, but will require modifying the fuel rail and will require a new rear support bracket. A new rear bracket and a alternator roller bracket is being designed specifically for the 24V and once finished will be available if there is a demand. The prototype pieces are going on our Project Cabrio 24V.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

It's a shame that the Rotrex units never really took off in north america. 
Great little units designed for smaller displacement motors :thumbup: 

sidenote; 
can't recall if i'd asked before hand, but are the cogged belt setups any wider? 
like will i need to space anything? 

reason i'm asking is because i'm going to be throwing an AWIC where my charge pipe is  
I'm going to need as much space as I can get, and if the measuement is off by a little bit i'll be a little upset lol


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

There has been some Rotrex development work by one NA company in the past year and it may come to pass. As far as the cogged belt setup, there are various belt widths available, but it will depend on what pitch is being used in the kits as to what belt widths are available, but you also are limited to pulley width and clearance issues if going wider. Contact Noah on the cogged setups.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

Isaam will do a "rotrex" (quotes because its not a rotrex, but is a planetary friction drive blower) based kit for you. I was talking to him about it a while back but I decided to go turbo instead. 


MORE PICS OF MK2 R32! or link to build will suffice :laugh:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Rheinland Technik said:


> There has been some Rotrex development work by one NA company in the past year and it may come to pass. As far as the cogged belt setup, there are various belt widths available, but it will depend on what pitch is being used in the kits as to what belt widths are available, but you also are limited to pulley width and clearance issues if going wider. Contact Noah on the cogged setups.


 Yea i was just wondering about the verdict kit  
I know alot of custom stuff exists. 

"Superdave" from Quebec is running custom pulleys all around so he can use a 10 rib belt. 
I've seen the car and the setup, it's orgasmic, and doesn't take any more space than a standard setup does.


----------



## vr6swap (Aug 17, 2001)

obdONE said:


> MORE PICS OF MK2 R32! or link to build will suffice :laugh:


 Don't really have one anymore. Started probably a half a dozen threads on as many forums. 

Haters and trolls always wreck sh*t with the quickness. 

:facepalm:


----------



## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

CorradoMagic said:


> nice history lesson. A few parts were left out. Another US based co. that no longer exists. IIRC they were mid-atlantic based & last I heard , in FL. IIRC. that was nearly 5yrs ago. 2 guys 'Euro (XXX)' was the outfit if memory serves me right. Their brackets were duplicated almost 100% by co. 'A' but in the world w/o trademarks/patents, etc & a diminished small biz. they up & disappeared, likely w/ a little chip on their shoulder.


 i think you're speaking a certain someone who now has a wrecker business who often sells 'underground' parts here on this forum


----------



## vdubstreets (Apr 26, 2004)

does anyone have install instructions for the type of charger mounting bracket below. I'm guessing the 3 bolts that where the bracket mounts were the tensioner was is 14 ft/lbs torque rating but I'm not sure. 










:beer:


----------



## rodgertherabit (Apr 16, 2009)

*Water/Meth VS New Software*? 

Both are about the Same price and give good gains. 

Ive also read the whole thread and It seems that software is our plague. Especially for me since I have GIAC software ready to install but have 262s already in. :banghead::banghead: 


Any relevant info would be great:beer:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

If by new software you mean standalone, do that over water/meth. 
Car will *eventually* run better than any amount of meth could allow


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

vdubstreets said:


> does anyone have install instructions for the type of charger mounting bracket below. I'm guessing the 3 bolts that where the bracket mounts were the tensioner was is 14 ft/lbs torque rating but I'm not sure.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Yes that is the mount spacer. The front of the charger bracket mounts to those 3 tensioner bolts...


----------



## vdubstreets (Apr 26, 2004)

I've figured that out since its bolts up to the car now just want to get the torque ratings correct because I've heard of issues with this design.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

Well it turns out my VR doesn't even have a 109 Relay in it... the place where it "would" go in my under dash panel has no relay socket there... though I do have a 409... like the cleaner.. HA! Sorry, terrible... so anyhow, if anyone needs one I'll be happy to offload it cheap. 

So now I am in one new ESS (crank pos sensor), cam pos sensor, ignition switch, set of spark plugs and verified chains are still on and cams turn while turning over. Spark and fuel behind FPR (gonna test at injector this weekend as well as timing to make sure chains didn't somehow jump a tooth). Anything else I'm missing that could cause this? 

thanks for the tips and help so far. :banghead:


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

vdubstreets said:


> I've figured that out since its bolts up to the car now just want to get the torque ratings correct because I've heard of issues with this design.


 Sorry, misread it... don't go too nuts. Id say 10ftlbs. One of mine got stripped. It is aluminum after all


----------



## rodgertherabit (Apr 16, 2009)

prometheus_ said:


> If by new software you mean standalone, do that over water/meth.
> Car will *eventually* run better than any amount of meth could allow


 Unfortunately I dont have the time or money for standalone so it will be a c2 flash for my maf and injector set up.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

Stripped the front one on mine when I installed. Retapped with an m10. My bracket was also drilled wrong so only 2 of the 3 bolt holes lined up with the head. :facepalm: vf 

I used some red loctite for peace of mind. 

Das, how could your car possibly not have a 109 relay??? All 12v should have it. Maybe someone still yours and that's why your car isn't running haha. Did you verify in your bentley that your car should / should not have a 109? This baffles me. 

Also check relay 53. It's label would make you think it's unrelated, but I read a few archived posts where it was mentioned that people's vr swaps wouldn't run without relay 53. Worth checking into. 

Other than that did you try swapping in a stock ecu yet? I would do that before buying another relay.


----------



## vdubstreets (Apr 26, 2004)

obdONE said:


> Stripped the front one on mine when I installed. Retapped with an m10. My bracket was also drilled wrong so only 2 of the 3 bolt holes lined up with the head. :facepalm: vf


 My bracket lined up well and I used blue locktight just incase I want to remove it one day. 
I just did 14 lbs and that didn't seem like much. 

Have you had any problems since you've installed your charger obdONE? I've heard of problems with that setup that they stripout because of the movement of the charger.


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

I haven't had the vf kit on my car for almost a year now. I had ONLY problems with that bs. So I sold that piece of junk for $600 and bought a turbo for $200. 

I really feel for all you guys and your s/c related headaches. That's why I'm still here giving advice; I've seen all your combined problems and more. 

Good luck!


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I'm still problem free as far as supercharger issue gI 
Vr problems on the other hand... Lol 

And I just found out someone dented my door..


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

Anyone ever had a P0606 ECU/ECM failure code? I've read that it can be the actual ECU or perhaps a bad ground for the ICM/coils. I'm running the MSD conversion so I plan on checking all the connections there and have pulled the board on my ECU for a friend who works in electronics to look for any physical flaw. Anyone know of a relatively easy way to test and see if it's the actual ECU? 

Also, if I do have to replace the ECU, does the number have to match all the way to the end letter? Mine is a T and I've seen some ones with the same number but an M at the end for sale, still looking for a T. 

thanks! :banghead:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

For what it's worth, when I was trouble shooting my random car dying issue I had changed my ecus about. 

One was OBD1 Dizzy VR Corrado, the other was OBD1 Dizzy VR Passat.
Both worked just fine


----------



## vr6sc1 (Jul 19, 2011)

hey guys, I ve been having problem with my car and I havent been able to figure it out for a while now. I am hoping that you guys could give me an advice what it could be. 
my setup is obd2 vr6(healthy low milaege) 268 cat cams, 2.9 manifold, 30" injectors, 12psi pulley, full ac, latest c2 chip, dual idler, forge 07 diverter valve. non intercooled.

I will boost no problem at 12 psi few times, then the car warms up fully it will start to backfire, lots of buckign and run very rich,(ex letting off gas in a gear while cruising ) af ratio goes to crap when idling. If i try to do wot it will fall on its face or occasionally might wake up .
It seems like the power comes and goes as it wants to.....especially when the car is fully warmed up and driven few times at wot and full boost....
I dont drive the car much, but I am starting to notice this lately almsot every time....


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

what spark plugs and gap are you running?


----------



## vr6sc1 (Jul 19, 2011)

ngk, and i am not sure what they are gapped to....could that be it?


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Hey guys, quick question about the V9 charger. I've been trying to source a new impeller, it is an F-trim but I can only find a G-trim impeller available. Is there any other changes/modifications needed to run the G-trim impeller?
thanks


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

Anyone have a MkIV 12v VR6 ECU just laying around they want to let go of cheap? Hehehe... maybe with a good tune on it already? Or not... just a functioning one. I don't remember if I asked here, but when sourcing another one, so long as the numbers match, can the letter after the numbers differ? :banghead:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

youlostme21 said:


> Hey guys, quick question about the V9 charger. I've been trying to source a new impeller, it is an F-trim but I can only find a G-trim impeller available. Is there any other changes/modifications needed to run the G-trim impeller?
> thanks


The compressor housing has a larger inlet diameter on a G-trim.


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

dasGolf01 said:


> Anyone have a MkIV 12v VR6 ECU just laying around they want to let go of cheap? Hehehe... maybe with a good tune on it already? Or not... just a functioning one. I don't remember if I asked here, but when sourcing another one, so long as the numbers match, can the letter after the numbers differ? :banghead:


I have one in my tool box at home. I'll get the numbers for ya. VW says its for a 200-2002 12vr mk4.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

Sweet... thanks man. On that note, does anyone know of a listing of ECU compatibilities?


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

DeckManDubs said:


> The compressor housing has a larger inlet diameter on a G-trim.


So just the inlet of the housing or the whole housing internally? More or less will the g-trim impeller work without replacing the housing? Or does anyone know of where to get a F-trim impeller?
Im still waitng for a reply from vortech, but im not holding my breath


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

Well it's definitely the ECU, borrowed a friend's from his car and mine fired right up.


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

youlostme21 said:


> So just the inlet of the housing or the whole housing internally? More or less will the g-trim impeller work without replacing the housing? Or does anyone know of where to get a F-trim impeller?
> Im still waitng for a reply from vortech, but im not holding my breath


Contact superchargerrebuilds.com because they can install a billet g trim impeller and modify the scroll so it fits properly. I asked about this several months ago but he had no actual data on flow increase. Never the less, you can still get your charger fixed at least.


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

I am awaiting on a reply form them aswell. I would really much rather rebuild it myself to keep costs down. I've rebuilt transfer cases, rear ends, engines... If the price is ok I may just send it in for the peace of mind. Vortech quoted me $950+ shipping, not tryin to lay that down if i can get an impeller. Bearings and seals are cheap.


----------



## Bruno89 (Jan 10, 2010)

hey guys, im sorta newish but i bought a r32 from a member on here around a year ago and presently its engines bone stock except for the vf stg 2 sc, im navy and about to go on deployment, so ill have $$ when im back to modify the R.

im not mechanically inclined, i deal with electrical systems on f/a-18s, so when it comes to modifying my engine im clueless but i want to try and get more power out of the kit, what would my best approach be? new pulley/tune? or a different sc, or just turbo it? i know ill need the exhaust and other basics, thats a given, but the car runs fine, and it appears that it puts down 6.5psi of boost atm, but it wont boost below 3500rpms with full throttle, again, im completely clueless

any help would be greatly appreciated


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Bruno89 said:


> hey guys, im sorta newish but i bought a r32 from a member on here around a year ago and presently its engines bone stock except for the vf stg 2 sc, im navy and about to go on deployment, so ill have $$ when im back to modify the R.
> 
> im not mechanically inclined, i deal with electrical systems on f/a-18s, so when it comes to modifying my engine im clueless but i want to try and get more power out of the kit, what would my best approach be? new pulley/tune? or a different sc, or just turbo it? i know ill need the exhaust and other basics, thats a given, but the car runs fine, and it appears that it puts down 6.5psi of boost atm, but it wont boost below 3500rpms with full throttle, again, im completely clueless
> 
> any help would be greatly appreciated



Cams and a different tune! Tis all!


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

dasGolf01 said:


> Well it's definitely the ECU, borrowed a friend's from his car and mine fired right up.


 :beer: told ya. Good job man. Now go drive it!


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

dasGolf01 said:


> Well it's definitely the ECU, borrowed a friend's from his car and mine fired right up.


pm sent! Sorry it took me a while.


----------



## Bruno89 (Jan 10, 2010)

littlenr said:


> Cams and a different tune! Tis all!


ive been looking to get the cams for sure, with a new tune, im out in lemoore ca, the R is in storage already sadly the bumper needs to be replaced due to a big jack rabbit deciding he wanted to remodel my front left part of the bumper.

but back on subject, im trying to explore all options available, ive got 7+ months to determine what to do, i read something about a sc swap i could do, anyone know anything?


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Bruno89 said:


> ive been looking to get the cams for sure, with a new tune, im out in lemoore ca, the R is in storage already sadly the bumper needs to be replaced due to a big jack rabbit deciding he wanted to remodel my front left part of the bumper.
> 
> but back on subject, im trying to explore all options available, ive got 7+ months to determine what to do, i read something about a sc swap i could do, anyone know anything?




Then take your time and read through every page of this thread!! Your questions may be answered!


----------



## Bruno89 (Jan 10, 2010)

littlenr said:


> Then take your time and read through every page of this thread!! Your questions may be answered!


ive read through a bit, but i dont entirely have time anymore, i leave this thurs for deployment and the internet on the aircraft carrier is crap and i wont have alot of time to sit back and read. I'm actually in contact with a shop now planning on prob swapping the sc for a turbo


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Bruno89 said:


> ive read through a bit, but i dont entirely have time anymore, i leave this thurs for deployment and the internet on the aircraft carrier is crap and i wont have alot of time to sit back and read. I'm actually in contact with a shop now planning on prob swapping the sc for a turbo



You know you can save the pages as an HTML file for reading offline...


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

Bruno89 said:


> ive read through a bit, but i dont entirely have time anymore, i leave this thurs for deployment and the internet on the aircraft carrier is crap and i wont have alot of time to sit back and read. I'm actually in contact with a shop now planning on prob swapping the sc for a turbo


Good luck man! Be safe on the boat! Thanks for the service too!

The potential to $$ is better with turbos. The SC world is only meant for a select few.


----------



## Bruno89 (Jan 10, 2010)

littlenr said:


> Good luck man! Be safe on the boat! Thanks for the service too!
> 
> The potential to $$ is better with turbos. The SC world is only meant for a select few.


yeah, thats what the shop just told me, so im going to be going with a custom turbo setup and prob sell the vf stg II kit locally, either in minnesota or cali.

ill have a build thread assembled once i get back from deployment, thx for the support

for those who have mixed feelins w/iraq, from what ive been briefed my Carrier air group im in is being sent over to lend air support to ground forces so that they may safely pull out of iraq, im not starting a political debate, but thats what we've been briefed on

back on subject, the shop hasnt specified much, but im looking to put down 400whp, should be a fun investment


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

power loss from about 9 psi to about 5.8-6 psi...slipping belt?smells ruber sometimes...


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Praks said:


> power loss from about 9 psi to about 5.8-6 psi...slipping belt?smells ruber sometimes...


that would be the slippage


----------



## bigbumpmike (Aug 26, 2003)

Bruno89 said:


> ive been looking to get the cams for sure, with a new tune, im out in lemoore ca, the R is in storage already sadly the bumper needs to be replaced due to a big jack rabbit deciding he wanted to remodel my front left part of the bumper.
> 
> but back on subject, im trying to explore all options available, ive got 7+ months to determine what to do, i read something about a sc swap i could do, anyone know anything?


PM'ed you


----------



## carma (Sep 30, 1999)

Anyone have experience with the Vortech V3? Just curious what kind of boost was made, reliability, etc. I'm thinking of swapping my V9 for one.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

V3's are built off of the V1/V2 case architecture, however sporting being self contained oil system. They will not bolt up to the V9 brackets however. 

V3's are more robust, flow in the 1100cfm range opposed to the 750 of the V9 unit. 

:beer:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Today I learnt that a gutted K20 eg hatch with little gas is a little bit slower going from a roll than my 9psi V1 

Frankly, I was surprised as I expected to get walked :thumbup:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

prometheus_ said:


> Today I learnt that a gutted K20 eg hatch with little gas is a little bit slower going from a roll than my 9psi V1
> 
> Frankly, I was surprised as I expected to get walked :thumbup:


:thumbup:


----------



## vdubstreets (Apr 26, 2004)

I've looked through this thread a few times and found some conflicting information, and I know its been beaten to death.

What should be the belt size WITH a/c and power steering, no idler pully.
I've tried the euro van belt @ 54.92in this was too short. 
I'm thinking 61 but I think thats a bit too long. maybe 59?


again this is the setup I have


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

your best option would be to measure with some string and check some manufacturer websites for the closest match.


----------



## vdubstreets (Apr 26, 2004)

wow, its such a pain to find these size belts!

Ive called carquest, levines, autozone and napa with no luck.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

59", 59.5" and 61" I normally stock. What size do you want?


----------



## vdubstreets (Apr 26, 2004)

i just ordered a 61 5 rib from autozone so if that fits I'll go for that size and give you guys a call.


----------



## bigbumpmike (Aug 26, 2003)

DeckManDubs said:


> V3's are built off of the V1/V2 case architecture, however sporting being self contained oil system. They will not bolt up to the V9 brackets however.
> 
> V3's are more robust, flow in the 1100cfm range opposed to the 750 of the V9 unit.
> 
> :beer:


with that much cfm it should be able easier and cooler IAT to make good power.( near 400 crank hp) but has anyone on here ran one? i have been looking at the v3 for while and wondered why no vw's are using them. think stillen sells one for the 370z and makes over 500hp at the crank


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

use this to help you work out some of the math
http://not2fast.com/turbo/glossary/turbo_calc.shtml

i was initially going to run a V7 blower at some point, but VRs dont flow enough to require it and it'd only be about a 5hp gain. 

plug in the appropriate numbers, and then select a turbo compression map to get the plot numbers, then look @ a compression map for a vf and see where you are in the efficiency range


----------



## rhussjr (Aug 7, 2000)

Prepping a Cabrio VR6 conversion that I worked out a trade on. Once I change the timing chains and clutch on the VR6, I will see about dropping it down into the Cabrio and once it is running, I am going to install my mockup charger onto the motor and fabricate inlet and charger pipes out of stainless steel.


----------



## vdubb98gti (Jul 24, 2008)

im looking into supercharging mk mk3 vr, heres what i been planing on correct me if theres something i shouldent do or should do.

v9 blower
stage 3 intercooler , idler bracket etc
10 psi pulley
autotech 262 cams
gutted 2.9 manifold
42lb tune

maybe a meth water injection as someon was convincing me it would be a good idea

also what should i be looking at for numbers with this setup?
i can get the blower oil feed line 2 belts and a few odds and ends for $800 which i thinks a good deal and the idler bracket and intercoooler for $600 should this be worth it?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

42lb is a bit excessive.
30 or 36 would be more than enough.

meth would also be a bit much as well if you're running an intercooler

as for power, possibly around 250whp


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

vdubb98gti said:


> im looking into supercharging mk mk3 vr, heres what i been planing on correct me if theres something i shouldent do or should do.
> 
> v9 blower
> stage 3 intercooler , idler bracket etc
> ...



get a v1 instead of the v9 :beer:


----------



## vdubb98gti (Jul 24, 2008)

i can get a relly good deal opn the v9


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Getting a good deal on something isn't always the best option. Especially if you have issues like many have had with the V9. Your limited on upgrades, where as the V1, V2 and V3 have far greater of variety to choose from as to replacement parts and accessability. Unless you are limited on space because of application [Mk4 application], the V9 would be my last choice. Now, if a good deal is "free", then I would say yeah, go with a V9, but support for the disign is limited. Just a random thought on my part.


----------



## vdubb98gti (Jul 24, 2008)

thanks for the opinions guys.. is there a 10psi pulley available for the v9? also the vortech intercooler kit the stage 3 one will work with the v9 im guesing as well as the other blowers?


----------



## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

2.5" pulley will get you 10psi on the v9, but you'll have tons of issues with belt slip and then you'll over spin the impeller and just be waiting for it to blow up. also, I sold my v9 with pulley oil lines and bracket for $600 so you're still not even getting that good of a deal.

Save your money for a v1, or go turbo if you want to make power.. If you really want to do a supercharger, check this out too maybe:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...rcharger-and-software-with-2.9-clone-manifold


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Several months ago, one of our sister shops removed an AMS charger from a customers car to put it back to stock for the wife of the guy. He thought he had it sold, but the buyer was blowing smoke. Anyway, if anyone is looking for a complete kit, I can post up picks again of the system. If not, we may just buy it and use it on one of our cabrio builds.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

To rodgertherabit, your PM box is full and we cannot reply to your message. I will post up pics later this evening of all the parts the kit includes if I get to the shop in time to get them.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Destroyed a new 7-rib pulley today trying to get it off the shaft of the mock up charger. Don't you just love rust. Ordered a new one and a bolt kit. Cutting a bracket this week to reposition the charger and an idler for the 24V motor this week. I also will be milling the pivot block down and making some spacers to provide a top feed oil supply versus lower oil feed.


----------



## mushroom_curry (Apr 21, 2004)

Opted for the rotrex charger, and want to mount it a la AC compressor.

But wondering if this bracket pictured below makes more sense? It's made for a 24v so I don't know if it would work on a 12v application? Would certainly help with mounting! Else will stick to the original game plan. 

What's in this picture looks like a "double" crank pulley. Which is a deal breaker for me since I don't have enough room for 1 crank pulley as is (MK2 Golf)

Either way I thought I'd share these links for those who havent seen.

The location where the bolts go through the bracket, are they 24V block specific?


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

Hey guys,

I just picked up a 98 vr s/c....i have never had a s/c or turbo vr, so its all new to me....i have been doing a bit of research here and there, and i guess i am just trying to see what the downsides are of getting a different pulley to make more power on my setup.....is there anything else i should change in this setup to make more reliable power??

here are the specs

Wossner Forged Pistons 9:1
All new bottom end bearings and gaskets
T-Chain and Guides
MK4 Metal Head Gasket
APR Head Bolts
Luk Clutch - New
UR Light Weight Flywheel
266 Cat Cams
TDI HD Valve Springs
2.9 Clone Intake
Rebuilt Vortech V2 Superchager - with upgraded 59K rpm bearings
C2 #42 Software
C2 4” MAF Housing
440cc RC Injectors
Turbosmart BOV
New coil pack
New ignition wires – OEM (cost me almost $400!!)
NGK Iridium plugs – 1 step colder
Walbro 255 Secondary Fuel Pump
B&M Short Shifter
Hi Flow Cat
2.5 SS Exhaust

dynoed at 252hp 238 ft/lb torq

also, that walbro secondary fuel pump is pretty annoying....i am sure that i will get used to the sound of it, but if i keep the setup as is, i could disconnect it, but if i want more power (which most of us always do) i will have to keep it, and get used to it i guess

any info would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

You may want to consider down grading to 30# injectors and software. This is considering that most 12V VR6 S/C'd motors make about 245-270 hp to the wheels in stock form [software for stock injectors, stock wires, stock fuel pump, etc...] with only a performance exhaust added.


----------



## vr6sc1 (Jul 19, 2011)

hey guys i have a 98 vr6 with vortech 1.
i ve been getting some anooying sound from the supercharger(sounds like chirping birds) for first 15minutes of driving you hear it above 2000rpm's, after the car warms up almost fully and as well supercharger the noise goes away completely and the sc sounds normal.
you can really hear it when i am changing gears as the supercharger spins on its own.
is my v1 on its way out?


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

maybe a supid question, but why would i downgrade.....i am guessing because of the walbro the previous owner was planning on making more boost....maybe thats why the injectors and software are what they are.....does tha make sense??


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

There is a lot of overkill in your setup, considering that a supercharged motor runs limited boost levels [less than 15 psi, realistically around 10-13], unlike turbo systems [15+ psi, with an average around 20]. Too much fuel can cost you power and cause rough running conditions. Peak power is often made with leaner conditions. If your planning to switch over to turbo and looking to support 400 hp, your setup is great, but for a charger, your overkill. You will need to upgrade the impeller to a billet unit and drop down to a 2.50" - 2.62" diameter pulley to get equal boost levels out of the charger equal to what a T60 or larger turbo would produce and still be a short on power.


----------



## mushroom_curry (Apr 21, 2004)

Would his 9.0:1 pistons cause a power loss over the 10.5:1 if he was using stock pistons with his MK4 headgasket?

Or is the engine happier at 10psi and a 9.0:1 compression?


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

The lower compression allows for higher boost, and less chance of early detonation, but will loose some power until the boost come up. Years ago, wehn we use to do G60 tuning, when there was a demand for it, we increased the compression on the 1.8 engines from 8:1 to 9:1. I haven't decided myself as to what compression we will run on the Cabrio with the 24V, but 11:1 will not be in the mix. I am working on another Cabrio build with a 12V and it will retain the stock 10:1 [Mk3] compression.


----------



## mushroom_curry (Apr 21, 2004)

Good info. Thank you.


----------



## spitfire481 (Mar 21, 2007)

he should not be running any richer or less reliable with his current fuel system than he would with smaller injectors. you just have a smaller injector pulse (ms) with the larger injectors to compensate for the larger nozzle size. only way for it to run rich would be if the ecu told it to. my buddies car that we built runs 840's with dual bosch 044 pumps. even without getting into boost on the street there are zero drivablility/idle issues. its all in the tune. my 24v has 630's in it for e85. even when i switch over to 93 gasoline it drives just like it would with the factory injectors because the tune lowers the injector pulse to where it needs to be to hit the target AFR. i would not waste my money downgrading for no real reason


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

A 12v can handle 13-15psi on a supercharger with 10 or 10.5:1, as long as you have proper cooling.
It's a little bit different on a turbo setup as you're dealing with exhaust gases


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

I didn't say his fuel system is any less reliable, it is jiust overkill for a s/c vr6. Yes, it will work and hea can get by with his current setup, but it is still more than is needed or that he will be able to use. There are very few, if an, s/c'd VR6's that make over 340 hp [what do are 24V and 3.2], but in the world of 2.8 and 2.9 12V engines, the hp numbers just don't get that high and do not need fueling for it. 

Too many people have the sheep mentality when it comes to building forced induction cars and follow along thinking that if sheep A and sheep B run this, then I need to run this too, when in actuallity, neither A or B are correct and it cost C money and more. 

I am fully aware of the smaller pulse width when running the larger injectors, but from what we have ran in the past setups [even with current software], the air/fuel was always richer than needed. The most buffer that we have ever put into a system is 20%. And by buffer, I mean larger than needed injector. Our old Corrado VRT made 617 hp with 80lb injectors, which were 19% larger than required, which we never went past 60% duty cycle. 

This is our opinion based on what we have seen and I know that if he is only making 255 hp with his setup, he is making lower hp than what we have seen on a dyno with less investment and less fuel. I have yet to see the need for more than 30lb injectors on a 12V s/c'd car and the most power we ever made with on was 308 and it was running 24's.


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

i guess i would need cooling if i went to a pulley with more boost right?? what are the thought on an inline charge cooler?? anyone run them??


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

More boost would require cooling. No one markets thems, but a few run custom on off setups. The most effective setups run a short runner intake and use water to air units. The 24V that we are using in our Cabrio build will feature this type of layout, rather than an air to air which requires cutting, hacking and a good length of pipe.


----------



## spitfire481 (Mar 21, 2007)

I wont argue that his fuel system is overkill for what the car makes, but there is no reason at all to change anything unless something has failed and needs to be adressed anyway. my N/A 2.8 24v on 93 pump runs perfect AFR's and it has 630's in it, i even run it slightly lean at part throttle to get 33 mpg out of it on the highway. large injectors do not cause rich conditions, tuning causes rich conditions. I just dont want to see the guy buy all new stuff because he thinks his current setup is hurting his car. not trying to start an arguement :beer:


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

I am not pushing an arguement here either. He is just better suited for turbo, just as so is your system is with the 630's is better suited for forced induction. But until you do several data logs, with varying conditions and compare them with other setups, you do not have a fully spectrum of what is needed nor what is wasted. I spend a lot of time on the road, driving long distances [nearly 1K miles a week] and it gives me time to do data logs for efficiency versus A/F along with temp conditions which I can compare and overlay for improvements [it is nice to work for Bosch : ) ]. This is mainly for research and development for standalone programming. There is a limit on how low you can run fuel pressure and on pulse width and still maintain smoothness in a program. Especially with the limits of the stock MAF and a narrow band O2 providing signal to the ECU as found on the Mk3 VR6's. It isn't as smooth as what the MS4 Sport systems can do with MAF, MAP and Wideband inputs, nor is it fully capable of providing reliable feedback. Only the Mk4 ECUs can do this reliably, which are close to the MS4 ECUs. If only VW had chose to run both MAF and MAP on all Mk4 cars, more power could have been obtained and simplified tuning one step more for the VR6 cars. Only the 1.8T and 2.7T engines got this function. Real big injectors with low fuel pressure and low pulse width as compared to small injectors with high pulse widths, the solution is in most all cases better in the middle or slightly to one end of the spectrum. There is no need for him to buy all ned hardware, but of course, he can sell off parts just like everyone else here on the Vortex and buy used or new. It is a buyers market anyway and with the support that C2 has, it may not cost him to have his software reburned [other than a few $] to go to a 30lb software.


----------



## RallyeG (Oct 27, 2003)

*V1 kit for sale*

Hey guys, I thinking of parting with my V1 blower. It was upgraded to a larger trim last year by Vortech and hasn't been used since, I've had to go another direction with my project. 
If anyone's interested let me know. I'd be willing to selling just the charger, or the C2 kit including plumbing, MAF, chip, injectors...
Cheers

[email protected]


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

There is a post [in a thread of its own] of a guy looking for a charger only that was post only a few days ago.


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

this is the response of the previous owner of the car


" The C2 chip looks at manifold pressure to see how much boost is being developed by the charger, then adjust fuel and timing accordingly. Its been mapped to supply fuel up to 15 PSI, and that specific chip has to use #42 injectors. Like I said before I was planning on getting a smaller pulley to up the boost level, thats why I built the car the way I did. At only 7psi, it dyno'ed at 252hp, which if you compare with other VR6 SC at 7psi, they make around 210-230hp... I think my setup is is better than most. The C2 chip will work with both turbo or supercharger setup, boost is boost, doesn't matter how its produced, It will adjust fuel and timing the same way. "


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

so what are my options for cooling?? i really dont want to have a fmic, but what are the other options if i go to a 12psi pulley??


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

water/meth injection, best way to go :thumbup:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

dmoe said:


> this is the response of the previous owner of the car
> 
> 
> " The C2 chip looks at manifold pressure to see how much boost is being developed by the charger, then adjust fuel and timing accordingly. Its been mapped to supply fuel up to 15 PSI, and that specific chip has to use #42 injectors. Like I said before I was planning on getting a smaller pulley to up the boost level, thats why I built the car the way I did. At only 7psi, it dyno'ed at 252hp, which if you compare with other VR6 SC at 7psi, they make around 210-230hp... I think my setup is is better than most. The C2 chip will work with both turbo or supercharger setup, boost is boost, doesn't matter how its produced, It will adjust fuel and timing the same way. "



VR6's do not have MAP sensors. The fueling is based off of : Load/IAT/O2 Reading/MAF reading.


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

water/meth is the way to go?? is there any kits that are better than others?? will i need to do anything other than install it? any software update with c2 or anything?


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

dmoe said:


> water/meth is the way to go?? is there any kits that are better than others?? will i need to do anything other than install it? any software update with c2 or anything?


I have a Labonte Stg4 kit on the Wife's Cabriolet, and a Snow Performance Stg2 kit on my R. The Labonte is a lot nicer, it reads injector pulse and has a map sensor to tell it when to kick on. The snow performance kit i have only reads MAF voltage so sometimes at high rpms it will start to spray even when you are not in boost if you have it setup to come on at a low boost setting.


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

So im at a cross road here.... I have a blown V9 F-trim, it would cost $975 to rebuild and make it a G-trim but its still limited to 10psi before it over spins the bearings. 
What is a reasonable price for a good V1 or V2 blower? And for the sake of resale, a good working V9 kit would be worth roughly what compared to another blower? 
I think it would be wiser to upgrade then rebuild but I would also like to be running my H20 of course so finding a used charger is not to easy in a short time line. 
What to do, whats to do....
Any advice or dogbirds would be great.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Pull the charger off your car for H2O and save your money up for a V1, V2 or V3 based system. Your a Mk3, so you have that option, where Mk4 are less plentiful. I have a V1 based system that I might let go as I can freely build another one with no problems.


----------



## euro4-DoOr (Apr 9, 2004)

what pulley will make around 12lbs with a v2?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

A 2.90 should do the trick


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

c2 says 2.75 on a v2 setup makes 12psi


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

dmoe said:


> c2 says 2.75 on a v2 setup makes 12psi


2.75 is a bit small and you will only be making 12psi if A. you aren't slipping (unlikely), and B. you dont mind exceeding the chargers limit


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

thats just what chris at c2 motorsports was telling me. I am in the same boat, looking for a smaller pulley for my v2 setup...


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

i make 13 on a 2.87 with my V1, made the same on my old V2


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

dmoe said:


> c2 says 2.75 on a v2 setup makes 12psi


If you have an intercooler!


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

dmoe said:


> this is the response of the previous owner of the car
> 
> 
> " The C2 chip looks at manifold pressure to see how much boost is being developed by the charger, then adjust fuel and timing accordingly. Its been mapped to supply fuel up to 15 PSI, and that specific chip has to use #42 injectors. Like I said before I was planning on getting a smaller pulley to up the boost level, thats why I built the car the way I did. At only 7psi, it dyno'ed at 252hp, which if you compare with other VR6 SC at 7psi, they make around 210-230hp... I think my setup is is better than most. The C2 chip will work with both turbo or supercharger setup, boost is boost, doesn't matter how its produced, It will adjust fuel and timing the same way. "


^^^ Umm, this is how most Stand Alone systems work (w/ a MAP sensor). the VR6 tunes still use a MAF housing & base the tunes from the MAF & 'chipped' ECU.


----------



## Olbrenner (Aug 23, 2008)

Anyone need a set of brackets? I have an AMS set with all new hardware, with the exception on the one bolt that holds the idler on. I ordered hardware from one of the guys on here and he had everything except for the one bolt, which is an M8. All bolts except for the two alternator bolts are stainless steel.


----------



## euro4-DoOr (Apr 9, 2004)

Would I have more belt slip with a 6 rib pulley rather than a 7 rib? For some reason I can find 6 rib 2.87 pulleys and I cannot find it in 7 rib:screwy:


----------



## Doxie Moxie (Mar 1, 2009)

They do not make a 2.87" pulley, but they do make a 2.70" pulley. 2A037-270 or 2A037-271


----------



## Olbrenner (Aug 23, 2008)

2.40" 2A037-240 - Listed as "Special"
2.62" 2A037-262 - Listed as "Special"
2.70" 2A037-270 - Listed as "Special"
2.70" 2A037-271
3.00" 2A037-300
3.25" 2A037-325 - Listed as "Special"


----------



## euro4-DoOr (Apr 9, 2004)

I have a 3.12" pulley now and I don't see that on your list!!!


----------



## Olbrenner (Aug 23, 2008)

They no longer offer the 3.12", it has been discontinued. The part number was 2A037-312.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

I run a 6 rib 2.87 with minimal slip


----------



## euro4-DoOr (Apr 9, 2004)

websaabn said:


> I run a 6 rib 2.87 with minimal slip


awesome...thanks!!!


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

i needs to get a dual idler :banghead:


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

euro4-DoOr said:


> I have a 3.12" pulley now and I don't see that on your list!!!


My 3.12 makes about 10psi on a stock engine and V1 charger, if you're wondering


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

i got the car saturday.....pulls hard, but the charge pipe keeps coming off the throttle body.....i have it real tight, but around 5k rpm, it has popped off twice....what are guys running from their throttle body to their charger?? can i go to an exhaust shop and have them bend something up for me?? are there any kits out there with flared ends or anything??

thanks


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Most exhaust shops do not have a good way to bead pipe. IF you were local to me, I could easily bead it for you.

Here is a DIY page: http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclipsetech/icpipebead.htm


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

dmoe said:


> i got the car saturday.....pulls hard, but the charge pipe keeps coming off the throttle body.....i have it real tight, but around 5k rpm, it has popped off twice....what are guys running from their throttle body to their charger?? can i go to an exhaust shop and have them bend something up for me?? are there any kits out there with flared ends or anything??
> 
> thanks


Get a t-bolt clamp. Problem solved. Worm clamps are junk and should never be used on boost pipe.


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

they are all t-clamps except onto the throttle body....i will change thos out, but there is also one of the t-clamps that i think the threads are messed up on.....doesnt tighten up, just keeps turning....i will replace all of them, and hopefully solve the issue


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

It will definately fix the issue.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

euro4-DoOr said:


> Would I have more belt slip with a 6 rib pulley rather than a 7 rib? For some reason I can find 6 rib 2.87 pulleys and I cannot find it in 7 rib:screwy:


simply find/buy the more easily found 8rib & cut off 1 rib.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Sweet Vortech goodness


----------



## euro4-DoOr (Apr 9, 2004)

CorradoMagic said:


> simply find/buy the more easily found 8rib & cut off 1 rib.


Cut 1 rib off the pulley? I'm not worried about the belt...My concern is finding the pulley i want....


----------



## littlenr (Jan 23, 2002)

euro4-DoOr said:


> Cut 1 rib off the pulley? I'm not worried about the belt...My concern is finding the pulley i want....


don't mess with cutting a pulley. he is talking about the belt. VWs are 7 rib pulleys. get the 8 rib belt and take a rib off the BELT!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## vdubstreets (Apr 26, 2004)

Does anyone know if I need to put the chip in an encryption board or if I can put it right into the ECU?
Also anyone have any of the VF supercharger bracket shims that they didnt use? My aligment is off 1/4 to 1/8th of an inch.


----------



## Doxie Moxie (Mar 1, 2009)

Most chips require the encryption board or socket.


----------



## vdubstreets (Apr 26, 2004)

Looks like I'll be pulling it and putting it in the encryption board.

I also go a hold of VF and they have a spacer for me but I think it may be too small.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Will be working on making a stainless inlet/MAF pipe and charge pipe for a Mk3 12V VR6 kit here soon enough.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Rheinland Technik said:


> Will be working on making a stainless inlet/MAF pipe and charge pipe for a Mk3 12V VR6 kit here soon enough.


Make that inlet pipe as short as possible 
Was caught in the POURING rain the other day and I was damn near ****ting my pants 










bottom of my filter is like.. halfway up the lip :facepalm:


----------



## euro.lo (Oct 19, 2010)

*FV-QR*

I saw your car at Vagkraft. I never knew it was s/c. I would have asked a bunch of questions. I'd love to go super on mine.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

It will be as high up to the frame rail as it can get.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

I installed the prototype idler bracket once it was finished onto the 24V for the Cabrio and it fits great. Installed a 6K560 belt and the 3.12" pulley clears the fuel rail and intake. So anyone with a Mk2 or Mk3 with a 24V conversion and want to do a V1-V3 or V5 charger, we have the solution.


----------



## KeyDub (Jul 11, 2004)

prometheus_ said:


> Make that inlet pipe as short as possible
> Was caught in the POURING rain the other day and I was damn near ****ting my pants
> 
> 
> ...


Veeerry Niiiice P:thumbup:
KeyDub


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

I just picked up another Vortech head unit. This one is a new polished V5 F-Trim. It is identical to the last V5 that we did back a few years ago than made 308 hp to the wheels. Finalized the idler bracket revisions this morning and will send the file down to the shop floor to put into the production schedule for getting a few production pieces made. We will also order another pulley, this time something smaller than the 7-rib one we just got and a 6-rib one for the 24V belt system. I will pick up a couple belts from 54" to 55" this evening and see how it affects ajustment range versus pulley diameter. The next step will be to calculate the difference in belt lengths for a car with A/C, which should be a 3" to 4" difference based on the 12V belts used. Next step will be the top oil line feed revision and oil return line rerouting.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

vdubstreets said:


> Does anyone know if I need to put the chip in an encryption board or if I can put it right into the ECU?
> Also anyone have any of the VF supercharger bracket shims that they didnt use? My aligment is off 1/4 to 1/8th of an inch.



Machine off 1/4" off the pulley then make a pulley spacer ring to correct the alignment. I have a bunch of spacers for just the pulleys.


----------



## vdubstreets (Apr 26, 2004)

I'm going to try to fab the shim myself. they said it was only .089 in thick so it shouldn't be that hard to cut. If that doesnt work I'll try the route you said.

they wanted 45$ shipped which I thought was pretty expensive for a small piece of metal.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Stopped and ordered two additional belts for the 24V charger setup. Both are shorter than the current 56" belt that is installed right now. The revised design has additional mounting holes to compensate for belt length for smaller pulleys and add additional belt wrap or contact.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

I have been thinking about the guys that run the cogged belt setups, especially those such as Nate. It might sound stupid at first, but think about it. The random thought is instead of driving the charger off the crank and running such a long cogged belt which is a pain to replace, drive it off the alternator. The drawback is there is increased load on the alternator, but in actuallity, the load is relieving a small portion of axial load that the factory belt places on the alternator. The altrnator is driven at higher rpms just like the charger and you can over drive the charger or underdrive the charger by changing the cogged pulley that is used at on the alternator to drive the charger. It is possible to make a bolt on bracket that would provide additional bearing support in the form of a third bearing at the cogged end drive pulley and it would help prevent issues with possilbe alternator failure. It is a randowm thought and based on what I have seen, there is room and making the pulleys interface would be simple. Think about it for a while and give some thoughts about the idea.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-brackets-from-my-R32&p=73154481#post73154481
selling my V9 F trim with brackets :thumbup:


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Passed your info along to rodgertherabit and sent you a message. He was looking at doing a kit, though he may not want a V9, but he may contact you.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

the MK4 cogged kits use a dual belt set up. There is less load on the shafts/bearings w/ a cogged belt as it doent require you to tighten it sooooo much to prevent slip.

what needs to be addressed with ALL kits is the lack of a self tensioning/adjustable tensioner. Something like the stock units. (spring loaded). this absorbs slack & belt slap at higher rpms. 
Space has always been the issue.
Adding another tensioner is quite possible as you can eliminate an ilder.
- clutched SC pullies (liker the mk4 Alt. use) is another improvement to reduce stop/start lash. (especially w/ the cogged set ups as they dont allow slip like a serpentine does. )


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Rheinland Technik said:


> I have been thinking about the guys that run the cogged belt setups, especially those such as Nate. It might sound stupid at first, but think about it. The random thought is instead of driving the charger off the crank and running such a long cogged belt which is a pain to replace, drive it off the alternator. The drawback is there is increased load on the alternator, but in actuallity, the load is relieving a small portion of axial load that the factory belt places on the alternator. The altrnator is driven at higher rpms just like the charger and you can over drive the charger or underdrive the charger by changing the cogged pulley that is used at on the alternator to drive the charger. It is possible to make a bolt on bracket that would provide additional bearing support in the form of a third bearing at the cogged end drive pulley and it would help prevent issues with possilbe alternator failure. It is a randowm thought and based on what I have seen, there is room and making the pulleys interface would be simple. Think about it for a while and give some thoughts about the idea.


No advantage. This would be like the old Z-Engineering kits. Serp would still slip. Crank ensures 100% power transfer.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

I did think about that being a possible issue, but adding an opposite force to the alternator with the cogged belt [no matter how low it may be] would counter act some of the slippage issue. The solution would be to make everything cogged driven on the engine, which would not decrease the cost involved, but would reduce time for changing the belts in the event of a failure. A solution for possible belt slip would be to increase the wrap on the alternator by making an idler for the stock belt. I have never had slippage of a stock blet, unless the belt was complelely worn and wet. I cannot speak of belt slip issues with the Z-E kits, as we never dealt with them, mainly for the fact that the chargers never held up. I think that unit failures were the biggest issue rather than belt slip. It would be at least worth making a pulley to mount up and see what the difference would be between the crank driven and alternator driven unit would be based on boost impellar rpm. This is something that could be data logged using VCDS and an external logger with rpm input and using an impellar tach that is readily available from the aftermarket for turbo applications.


Another aspect or possibility would be to make an extended drive pulley that would tie into the single cogged belt system and drive the charger just as it would be with a serp belt and not have to have two belts to drive the system. Though the direct drive from the crank is 100% fool proof in theory, there are still drawbacks.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

The main advantage would be quick maintenance and repair that could be done without having to get under the car or removing mounts to gain clearance for removing and installing the belt. I know that this is an issue on some of the cars running the cogged system. Each concept has advantages and disadvantages when it comes down to it. Alternator driven using serp belt would have slip where the crank driven will not. Then there is maintenance cost that can be compaired, component cost, etc & etc. If your going for big hp numbers then crank driven is the best, but if you looking for simple and effective hp with lower boost and not seeking a strip screamer, then the alternator driven system would be beneficial. 

Ideally, converting to a single cogged belt system would work best. Though the design of the serp belt itself is what has to be looked at when trying to prevent slip in a serp driven system. We used the Goodyear belts which grip better than a standard serp belt, since the relief grooves allow the belt to form a tighter grip on the pulley than a belt without grooves on the contact surface. The Goodyear belts also seam to run cooler. It would be worth getting a thermal camera and snap some images of various belts to see which ones have the best traction. Slippage = Heat, Heat = Wear, Wear = Failure.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

New V5 came in today. Unit is polished, but we can live with that.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Rheinland Technik said:


> The main advantage would be quick maintenance and repair that could be done without having to get under the car or removing mounts to gain clearance for removing and installing the belt. I know that this is an issue on some of the cars running the cogged system.


Solved if running VF/Stock Engine mounts.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Yet, there are some that have to loosen the engine mount to get the belt around the additional crank pulley due to tight clearance.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

VF and stock are the only mounts that are designed to maintain the exact engine placement. BFI and others have design discrepancies that cannot be accounted for. This issue is like when people attempt to run cams with their GIAC software, just never works out well. The time and money invested into trying to try this or that is better spent tossing a stock set of cams back in and saving the money for standalone/better exhaust. Since all the kits I designed were based off the original VF(Z-Engineering/NS Racing). It is better to design around the industry standard than strike off in a new direction due to conflicts with parts that could be interchangeable.

:beer:


----------



## dirtydeedss (Aug 27, 2008)

I just recently installed a vf v9 kit into my corrado vr6. The car has no ac and a smaller pulley on the charger. The belt length I need is 52.5 but I can not find a 7 rib belt in that length anywhere! The 6 rib belt slips and is not working for me. Where can I buy a additional idler pulley so I can run a longer belt in a 7 rib and get more wrap around the charger pulley? Also around 2300 rpm to 3000 I'm hearing a cricket or bell chime noise from the charger. Is this normal or would something be wrong? The charger still boosts good and there is no play in the shafts.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Well, like any VW older than the current models or the Mk5, the market is dead on development of new products anyway. The only advantage in any attempt is to make a more affordable mouse trap as current pricing on said mouse trap is what prevents it from selling. By making simple improvements and reducing cost on your design and you will get more customers.


----------



## Doxie Moxie (Mar 1, 2009)

I think more people would build their own supercharged Mk4 VR6s if the brackets weren't so expensive. Since the classifieds are flooded with V9 kits that are far from being ideal, and V2 brackets are not economically feasible, turbocharging is the only way people are going and it is cheap to build your own kit or to even buy a kit ready to go. I can't see spending $800 on brackets and another $1000 plus on a drive system when a Mk3 kit is less than $500. I am not worried about a little belt slip, I just want additional power without spending big cash. I guess you are right, the supercharger market is dead or at least not affordable to the ones that want reliability. I know the VF kits with the V9 have issues so I am not going to buy someone elses headache.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Rheinland Technik said:


> Well, like any VW older than the current models or the Mk5, the market is dead on development of new products anyway. The only advantage in any attempt is to make a more affordable mouse trap as current pricing on said mouse trap is what prevents it from selling. By making simple improvements and reducing cost on your design and you will get more customers.


If your not aware, manufacturing prices are rising. Materials go up, labor is going up, health care is now required for companies to provide, power to run the machines to machine parts has doubled in the past year. 

Superchargers are no cheaper than turbo's, they are a different power delivery. I hate to say it but the normal consensus on Vortex is that they should be cheaper. The truth is for a good turbo setup your going to spend 7k+ and for a supercharger its going to be the same if not more. Considering that the current software available by C2 and Jeff is sub-par for this application. 

:beer:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Doxie Moxie said:


> I think more people would build their own supercharged Mk4 VR6s if the brackets weren't so expensive. Since the classifieds are flooded with V9 kits that are far from being ideal, and V2 brackets are not economically feasible, turbocharging is the only way people are going and it is cheap to build your own kit or to even buy a kit ready to go. I can't see spending $800 on brackets and another $1000 plus on a drive system when a Mk3 kit is less than $500. I am not worried about a little belt slip, I just want additional power without spending big cash. I guess you are right, the supercharger market is dead or at least not affordable to the ones that want reliability. I know the VF kits with the V9 have issues so I am not going to buy someone elses headache.



$1800 is not much money these days. That will get you software and a intake on an S4. Or software and a down-pipe on your 1.8t.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

I am very aware of the increasing cost in the manufacturing industry, as I deal with it everyday. As a former manufacturing engineer for one of the "Big 3", one parts facilitys overhead was at $149 per hour for every employee that worked in the facility. This was about $73 higher than one of our other facilities. The current facility that I am associated with the labor rate is lower, but still in the $120 range. Considering that an average milling machine that we use is over $1M. Just one automated parts washer is $580K and with me spending $135 every two weeks on health insurance out of my pocket and a $5K deductable per year, who can afford to get sick. We are in a situation right now where we have $73M to spend in the next two years on equipment, to replace and update with new technology in order to maintain customer demand and support market growth. So, I know manufacturing cost are rising, because we hold our tolerances in 2-5 microns for our products and it cost money to maintain that. 

Alternative methods are the key to reducing cost. Non critical machining features and commonizing parts help reduce cost in manufacturing that either increase profit margin or are passed along to the customer. Manufacturing must be dynamic and open to new thoughts to keep up with market trends and make products affordable to the consumer. The US cannot compete with China unless these changes are made. If not, the US [though it already is catorgorized as one], will be nothing more than a service country. Technology and innovations are no longer our strong point as they were back during and after World War 2. With the waste that we put in the ground each day, we continue to bury ourselves.

Cost have gone up as many are living above their means and extend theirselves far past what they actually need. This has driven up cost as finacial companies work to recover losses for shareholders.

Superchargers are more costly to replace or purchase than turbos when it comes to units themselves. The cost involved in building a kit on your own is no cheaper than buying one from company "A" or "B", though they are holding the overhead and taking the risk. Most all companies that offer anything for the market that we are in, no longer see value in maintaining supply. It is just the few diehards here on this thread that help maintain the demand and take the risk. Is it worth it, no, but it does help show that you don't have to be a deep pockets company to make a product that out performs the offerings that these companies produce.

Yes, superchargers are different power delivery than turbos and we have never pushed a customer to believe that superchargers are cheaper than turbos. A system that has been engineered and well built will always cost more than a thrown together kit. Some of the best developed kits are well over $8K and even higher, such as HPA. The best ones make use of space available with little or no hacking of factory components and can easily be removed from a car and be put back to stock with little signs of anything ever being in place. HPA has by far had the best stock drivability feel of any kit that has ever been produced for a car that never was produced in a forced induction form. But, you pay for this and not everyone can afford it, nor need it.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Also realize that to decrease machining cost, you only tool machine features that require it. Billet pieces are nice, but unless you are a show queen type of guy; lasers or waterjets cut the time down and get the rough dimensions where you need to be. The critical features, you get on a lathe or mill. We once had to come up with a way to add a single hole to a stamped steel raintray without adding it to the die. If we added it to the die, the cost was $700K for a single 13 mm diameter hole that its only purpose was to gain access for mounting a wiper motor assembly. The hole was being added in by hand, using two fixtures and four air tools [two drills, a rotary deburr tool and a disc deburr tool]. The process took a minute and half to two minutes at a cost of $2.48 a minute. This was replaced with an auto-feed drill and a Hougen tool for a total cost of $4700 and reduced the time down to zero. The cost was recovered in less than 12 days of work. Every project that I use to manage, saved the consumer money directly when they purchased a vehicle. 

Remember, you can have mulitple versions of the same product, one top shelf, one mid range and one low buck. Taylor your product to the consumers pocket book, don't taylor your customer to your product. Most companies that stay with the processes that they use to make their product loose market share when they don't adapt to customer finacial needs. Take Apple, they still have iPhone 3s along with iPhone 4s and talking about iPhone 5s coming out in the somewhat near future. 

There is always a better mouse trap, though simple and effective is par for the course. By it isn't human nature to settle for something that could very well be better. You always want to be the next best thing since slided bread. Keep that in mind.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Rheinland Technik said:


> I am very aware of the increasing cost in the manufacturing industry, as I deal with it everyday. As a former manufacturing engineer for one of the "Big 3", one parts facilitys overhead was at $149 per hour for every employee that worked in the facility. This was about $73 higher than one of our other facilities. The current facility that I am associated with the labor rate is lower, but still in the $120 range. Considering that an average milling machine that we use is over $1M. Just one automated parts washer is $580K and with me spending $135 every two weeks on health insurance out of my pocket and a $5K deductable per year, who can afford to get sick. We are in a situation right now where we have $73M to spend in the next two years on equipment, to replace and update with new technology in order to maintain customer demand and support market growth. So, I know manufacturing cost are rising, because we hold our tolerances in 2-5 microns for our products and it cost money to maintain that.
> 
> Alternative methods are the key to reducing cost. Non critical machining features and commonizing parts help reduce cost in manufacturing that either increase profit margin or are passed along to the customer. Manufacturing must be dynamic and open to new thoughts to keep up with market trends and make products affordable to the consumer. The US cannot compete with China unless these changes are made. If not, the US [though it already is catorgorized as one], will be nothing more than a service country. Technology and innovations are no longer our strong point as they were back during and after World War 2. With the waste that we put in the ground each day, we continue to bury ourselves.
> 
> ...



Glad to see we agree :beer: Thus for when I was designing all the setups to use the original AMS V1 kit and VF V9 Kits. This allows swapping back to original/parts to be sold that fit one car to fit another.

There are only so many that are going to do a SC kit on their car. This target market is very very very small. Even less that will ever go cogged/step up to a big blower/really push setups. To get back to the original point, the issue you pointed out was with having to pull the engine mount to change the belt. Stock or VF mounts this is not a problem. VF is the closest thing to OEM when it comes to SC community as it is designed to not require modifications. Their engine mounts are the best available. I am not going to go out and buy every aftermarket engine mount to test it to make sure it fits all of the two MK4 kits out there. This would be a waste of money and development time. 

Anyways, I have to go back to work and take more jobs away from China :laugh:


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

I alway reccomend designers to revisit their designs and see what manufacturing methods they can employee to reduce manufacturing cost. There are several people on the Vortex that want to supercharge their Mk4 VR6 rides, and want to stay clear of the V9, but are weary of dropping down $1800 cash for brackets and a drive system [though it is top of the line and functions very well and has ties to the Mk3 design and will last longer than some of the diecast pieces in the V9 kits], knowing that they have that much more to spend and then some just for a charger and then work out the management piping components. I have countless revisions of the Mk3 design that have basic features found in the original production pieces from all of the early kits, to changes that were seen in the C2 kits and then integrated features that provide support, clearancing, protection and maintenance features all in one. This and I even have a two piece design that combines four of the basic pieces down to one single piece in an all billet design. It isn't cheap to make it, especially one single set, but the cool factor is there, just not worth the added cost for as it adds nothing to improve fit, form or function. The Mk4 still has some supercharger demand in it, but many will lend to risk a used V9 kit for $1300-$2000 than step up and go V1 and similar. Hence this is why I continue to look to improve the old standby Mk3 design to make it fit more to other applications. This is why I have been working on the idler bracket and pulley along with the main bracket to fit them to the 24V, as the motors are finding their way to more and more Mk2 and Mk3 chassis everyday. This is seen in our own build as the 12V has been substituted for a 24V and eventually the 2.8 24V will be replaced with a 3.2 or even a 3.6. The Mk3 is the new old school, replacing the Mk2 as it replaced the Mk1 [you have to look at it that way] as the cars are getting fewer and fewer and eventually Mk4 and Mk5 will replace the Mk3 as old school. 

I grew up on 55-57 Chevys and aircooled Type 1 and what you can do yourself, you did because we didn't have money growing up, especially when my father was raising three kids and disabled from combat in Vietnam, so we made due and saved up. Even to this day, if I can make it, I do, if I can fix it, I do and if I can design it and build it, I do. I have since sold off the old Chevy and all the tools for the aircooled. I can't afford to ball a 57 150 any longer, at least the one I want and maintaining a vintage aircooled vert for little use isn't worth the garage space. I keep the daily driver going and work to get the Cabrio moving forward a little each day so that one day [hopefully bu SOWO 2012], it will be ready to debut.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

And as always, "Made in America" doesn't mean the same as "Made in the USA". My cars are "Made in Germany, but perfected in the USA". I get sick everytime I see a knock off part made East of Europe and South of Russia. eBay is flooded with the crap and finding the real deal is getting harder each day.


----------



## allmotorvr11 (Sep 23, 2006)

Could anyone tell me what it means when your charger makes a loud chirping noise every time it starts to make boost.? Im thinking its time to rebuild?


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

Quick tuning question, Vortech V1, DRC268s 9.5:1 compression, 14-15psi at redline, water/meth, non intercooled, whats a good lambda to tune around .82 in boost trailing off to .80 up top? With the water/meth, thats about where it sits but I don't know if I should leave a little more fuel in it for cooling. Timing is right at 6 degrees at redline but I don't want to mess around with that until I get some time on a dyno.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

allmotorvr11 said:


> Could anyone tell me what it means when your charger makes a loud chirping noise every time it starts to make boost.? Im thinking its time to rebuild?


 Check your oil pressure. Sounds like possible start up oil starvation/bearing are on their way out. 



KubotaPowered said:


> Quick tuning question, Vortech V1, DRC268s 9.5:1 compression, 14-15psi at redline, water/meth, non intercooled, whats a good lambda to tune around .82 in boost trailing off to .80 up top? With the water/meth, thats about where it sits but I don't know if I should leave a little more fuel in it for cooling. Timing is right at 6 degrees at redline but I don't want to mess around with that until I get some time on a dyno.


 Should be pretty good till you hit the dyno. Lugtronics right?


----------



## dirtydeedss (Aug 27, 2008)

.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

Yeah its Lugtronic, hoping to add some timing and lean its out just a little more once I can get on the rollers.


----------



## dirtydeedss (Aug 27, 2008)

dirtydeedss said:


> I just recently installed a vf v9 kit into my corrado vr6. The car has no ac and a smaller pulley on the charger. The belt length I need is 52.5 but I can not find a 7 rib belt in that length anywhere! The 6 rib belt slips and is not working for me. Where can I buy a additional idler pulley so I can run a longer belt in a 7 rib and get more wrap around the charger pulley? Also around 2300 rpm to 3000 I'm hearing a cricket or bell chime noise from the charger. Is this normal or would something be wrong? The charger still boosts good and there is no play in the shafts.


 bump


----------



## spitfire481 (Mar 21, 2007)

dirtydeedss said:


> bump


 Summitracing.com, part number 4080525. 

You just need to cut one rib off


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Or use 8PK1335 [metric number] and call your local parts house and give them either number to see if they stock it.


----------



## dirtydeedss (Aug 27, 2008)

I put the 3.25 pulley back on and got a 7 rib belt and it's still slipping at high rpm. I think I need an additional idler pulley set up? And is it ok to cut a rib off a serpentine belt?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

probably a dumb question, but have you adjusted the belt tension yet?


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Cutting a rib off a serp belt is perfectly fine. The key is to have an extrememly sharp blade and keeping it perpendicular when cutting. The belt manufacturers cut the belts from larger and wider belt material. You are just cutting it to the width that you need when they do not offer one from the factory [7 rib versus factory available 8 rib].


----------



## spitfire481 (Mar 21, 2007)

would you happen to know if the mk3 12v PS pulley is larger diameter than the mk4 24v? i need a little more adjustment in my setup and the next belt size down is half inch which i doubt i can get installed. the current one was a nightmare. is the 12v pulley smooth/no lip? the 24v is groved and has the lip on the edges which made it super difficult. :beer:


----------



## Doxie Moxie (Mar 1, 2009)

24V is 6-rib.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

The pulley on our 12V donor smooth, no lip. If you are at the end of your adjustment slot on the charger, you should be able to get a .5" shorter belt on if you release all the tension. If you are on the low tension end of the slot, you shouldn't have a need for a shorter belt.


----------



## dirtydeedss (Aug 27, 2008)

prometheus_ said:


> probably a dumb question, but have you adjusted the belt tension yet?


 Yes it is adjusted I tightened it progressively and it keeps slipping.


----------



## spitfire481 (Mar 21, 2007)

Here is my situation. Full tension release on my setup is about 1/4 short of what it could be. Bolt head for the supercharger pulley hits the intake manifold flange bolt at that point. Already tried to modify it, but without leaving that manifold bolt out there is no real option. I thought I read somewhere that there was a 12v ps pulley that was a little larger than my 24v pulley, but key factor was that it was smooth. With a smooth pulley with no 1/8" lip on the edge I'm sure I could get the half inch smaller belt on no problem. I have no ac compressor so the ps pulley is the only one with enough access to slide the belt over last but getting it over that lip is a nightmare and now that the belt has had some miles on it I'm out of adjustment range. I guess i could machine the lip off of the outter edge of the pulley as well and try to get the smaller belt on if I have to.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

It is slightly larger in diameter, roughly 6 mm.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Anyone going to H20 this year? 
More specifically the FI meetup


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

prometheus_ said:


> Anyone going to H20 this year?
> More specifically the FI meetup


 Im going. Dunno about the fi meet. But probably. Its coming up quick...


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

prometheus_ said:


> Anyone going to H20 this year?
> More specifically the FI meetup


 not going to make it to H2O this year


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

I finally got a print out from my dyno a couple months ago. Figured I'd post it on here for feedback. The setup is a V1, 3.12 pulley (pretty sure), stock engine, old school AMS setup with blow through MAF. I couldn't figure out my wife's scanner so I just took a picture of the paper instead.


----------



## Doxie Moxie (Mar 1, 2009)

What's up with that base run? Any issues with your engine or systems? Your hp numbers should be around 225-255 easily even with the AMS software and MAF location.


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

No issues that I know of. It's my first supercharged VR but not my first FI VR. We stopped at about 6500 rpm since it was running leaner than I liked so it probably would've made a bit more if I took it all the way to 7200 red line. A smoother air fuel and more fuel up top would've definitely helped too.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

crazysccrmd said:


> I finally got a print out from my dyno a couple months ago. Figured I'd post it on here for feedback. The setup is a V1, 3.12 pulley (pretty sure), stock engine, old school AMS setup with blow through MAF. I couldn't figure out my wife's scanner so I just took a picture of the paper instead.


 Mustang Dyno?


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

DeckManDubs said:


> Mustang Dyno?


 Yep. Forgot to add that in the original post when I realized it wasn't in the picture. I guess from the roughly 10% difference it would be around 230whp on a dynojet


----------



## Doxie Moxie (Mar 1, 2009)

I have never been a fan of mustang dynos. Anything eddy current will vary between identical dynos much more that of a static mass or inertia dynos like a dynojet. Spinning 3000 pounds (roughly) each and every pull will repeat more consistent. I know that a stock VR will be between 145 and 165 hp on a dynojet. Would like to see a comparison between your mustang plot and it on a dynojet.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

crazysccrmd said:


> Yep. Forgot to add that in the original post when I realized it wasn't in the picture. I guess from the roughly 10% difference it would be around 230whp on a dynojet


 Those numbers are not too shabby at all then. I prefer the Mustang #'s as better real world #'s. Dynojets tend to read really high and give false impressions of the real power the car is making. Dyno numbers are nice, but it really comes down to how it runs against another car, as dyno numbers are just a measurement that is many times influenced by temp/humidity/fuel ect. A dyno run is a semi controlled test. That being said, a healthy 209-219whp (mustang #'s) 12v will walk an E46 M3 without an issue. 

:beer:


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

Would adding water/meth give me a good boost in this case? I used it on my turbo VR but that was mainly to lower the IATs. For this setup it seems like the methanol might richen things up a bit and give a better overall AFR to increase power, as well as providing the cooling effect. Thoughts?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

crazysccrmd said:


> Would adding water/meth give me a good boost in this case? I used it on my turbo VR but that was mainly to lower the IATs. For this setup it seems like the methanol might richen things up a bit and give a better overall AFR to increase power, as well as providing the cooling effect. Thoughts?


 Wont add any boost. But will help with keeping your IAT's lower. KubotaPowered I believe has been running it for a while on his SC setup.


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

DeckManDubs said:


> Wont add any boost. But will help with keeping your IAT's lower. KubotaPowered I believe has been running it for a while on his SC setup.


 Yeah, I definitely phrased that wrong. It was supposed to mean give me boost as in increase in power, not a increase in boost. I can afford to go MS or Lugtronic but there's no way I can swing that big of a purchase past my wife. I'd like to do it though, I'm sure with proper tuning and fueling I could be making a good bit more whp without changing the hardware at all.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

crazysccrmd said:


> Yeah, I definitely phrased that wrong. It was supposed to mean give me boost as in increase in power, not a increase in boost. I can afford to go MS or Lugtronic but there's no way I can swing that big of a purchase past my wife. I'd like to do it though, I'm sure with proper tuning and fueling I could be making a good bit more whp without changing the hardware at all.


 I would just suggest just putting a bit of money away each month till you can go with the Lugtronic setup. Prolly wont be in the dog house if you do it that way. Then you can ditch the MAF/play with pulleys/cams/exhaust and water-meth and get real power and driveability out of it.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

DeckManDubs said:


> Wont add any boost. But will help with keeping your IAT's lower. KubotaPowered I believe has been running it for a while on his SC setup.


 Hopped on the dyno tonight and tuned around the water/meth. 16 degrees of timing at redline, 15psi.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Alright. Well my wiring is done on my shaves bay. Heard my? supercharged 3.0 start last night for the first time! The guy who wired it didn't wire the rear knock sensor in bc you can't tuck it that well. He mentioned you don't need it really anyway. What are your views on this? From what he said the ecu doesn't tune off the rear. Only front, crank sensor and cam sensor. Enlighten me...


----------



## spitfire481 (Mar 21, 2007)

looks like i finally got the belt tension straightened out. running the 12v PS pulley and a gates fleetrunner HD belt. previous belt was a dayco. still have about half inch of adjustment on the bracket and from what i have seen these belts do not stretch much so hopefully im good. definantly cant do the next size down. took 2 hours and 2 prybars to get this one on :laugh: 

2.8 24v (10.5:1 CR) 
TT 264/260 cams 
V9 [email protected], 7psi @ redline 
ported exhaust manifolds 
dual 2" downpipes 
3" back, no cat, one magnaflow muffler 
United motorsport 630 file with r32 maf housing 
siemens 630's, stock fuel pump (not leaning out at redline so im not complaining lol) 
7lb flywheel, stock disk and PP 
raxles 

zero complaints at all with the software. its perfect in all aspects. i couldn't be happier with it. next on the list is a peloquin.


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

Can i use the fourseasontuning bracket kit to mount a vortech v5 ccw headunit on my mk3 12v vr6?


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

Rheinland Technik said:


> FST - Vortech - V1. V2, V3 & *V5* bracket kit - 12V fitment


 I shuffled back a few pgs. & found this post. I just want to confirm!


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Yes and with a replacement on two primary parts, it will work on a 24V in a Mk3.


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

Hey guys. I purchased a 12v gti with a stage 3 VF v9 charger. It has the VF intercooler as well. I realized that the boost gauge was wrong (the needle sat at 4psi when the engine was off) so I replaced the gauge and now the charger redlines at 6psi around 7k. It's supposed to be around 11psi. What do you guys think it is? I don't think it's belt slip because I had it at one point and then I took a crowbar to it and some belt dressing. It could be slipping for all I know but it's not making the sound. I'm thinking it's a boost leak, how would I test for it? I don't have an air compressor.


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Blown V9 is leaving and a fresh V1 is returning.

^doesn't quite show how big my smile is right now


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

what kind of psi are guys running without any cooling....i am at a low psi now, i know i could go up to 10psi, but if i wanted to run something like 12-13psi on my v2 setup, i would need cooling right?? is water/meth injection my best bet for this??


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

i run 13psi with a mk4 headgasket and w/m


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

ya i have the mk4 head gasket...just looking for a decent w/m system i guess.....never had to really think about this stuff, but the car is going to be getting tucked away soon for the winter, and i may have some stuff done over the off season


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

cant remember...supercharger pulley bolt reverse thread or regular? been a while since i took it off.
thanks!:beer:

edit: standard:heart:


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Standard right hand thread


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

so started to try and rebuild this blower, and the hex bolts holding the s/c bracket on the s/c are on there soooooooo tight. theyve twisted my hex sockets on the impact wrench, twisted allen wrenches, and snapped screw extracters ( the bolts eventually got stripped, although one bolt came out with a screw extractor). there are 2 bolts left that just wont come out. thinking im just gonna take it to a machine shop on Monday before i throw this thing across the street!! :banghead::banghead:


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Most likely galvanic corrosion and rust if they are black oxide bolts or cheaply plated bolts. Stainless bolts and anti-seize are your friends.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

Rheinland Technik said:


> Most likely galvanic corrosion and rust if they are black oxide bolts or cheaply plated bolts. Stainless bolts and anti-seize are your friends.


thing is, the threads on the bolt that finally came out with the screw extractor looked fine...someone just over tightened this shizzz


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

Here is my issue......I was driving last night on a country rd and gave it a bit of gas in third gear, once i got into the boost, and the car was around 5k rpms, the charge pipe blew off the throttle body again....the thing that worried me was there was smoke out the back of the car... when i popped the hood, i could see a bit of smoke, so obviously some oil had dripped on the exhaust and was smoking a bit.....i looked under the car and noticed a bit of an oil leak....i put the charge pipe back on tightened up the clamp, drove home, and searched for the cause of the oil leaking....cant find it....but thins morning there was an oil spot about 12inched in diameter on the driveway.....i dont have a clue where its leaking from.....any ideas as to what this could be?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Finally got my car on the dyno. Making exactly what I expected to 
238whp / 232lb-ft, ~8psi
10.5:1, gutted manifold, 2.5" dp back (no cat), 3.647 R/P


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

dmoe said:


> Here is my issue......I was driving last night on a country rd and gave it a bit of gas in third gear, once i got into the boost, and the car was around 5k rpms, the charge pipe blew off the throttle body again....the thing that worried me was there was smoke out the back of the car... when i popped the hood, i could see a bit of smoke, so obviously some oil had dripped on the exhaust and was smoking a bit.....i looked under the car and noticed a bit of an oil leak....i put the charge pipe back on tightened up the clamp, drove home, and searched for the cause of the oil leaking....cant find it....but thins morning there was an oil spot about 12inched in diameter on the driveway.....i dont have a clue where its leaking from.....any ideas as to what this could be?


Check your oil feed and return lines. If no oil, pull your inlet off and check for oil there. Where was the oil spot in relation to the car?


----------



## LR-60 (Dec 18, 2008)

*Paging all supercharger gurus...*

Ok, so I've read through this entire thread several times in the past and am now getting ready to have a VF stage 2 kit (8 psi) installed on a '01 Mkiv GTI VR6 (12V). So, do I go old school and tap the oil pan for the oil return line and run 1/2 qt. low, or go new school and tap the block (scary)? Also, for better flow should I change out the oil drain fitting on the s/c from the 90* to a 45*? In addition to a boost gauge I would also like to run oil psi/temp gauges, will I need to get the 42DD oil psi relocation kit....is this necessary to make that feasible, is there enough space in there on a vr6? I don't know how many ports I have available on the top of the oil filter housing, my Bentley doesn't specify. Oh, and what was that about changing the oil feed line fitting on the top of the s/c from the brass one to a stainless steel one to prevent leaks? Where can I source one, is there an easier fix or is this not necessary? I DO know that I will use Mobil1 15w50 oil, ngk bkr7eix plugs, t-bolt clamps on the psi side connections, and 70-90 ft.lbs. of belt tension. I also have an idler pulley from their stage 3 kit to help with the inevitable belt slip issues.:laugh:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Tapping the block would probably serve better if your car is low since you wont have to worry about custom pans


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

LR-60 said:


> Ok, so I've read through this entire thread several times in the past and am now getting ready to have a VF stage 2 kit (8 psi) installed on a '01 Mkiv GTI VR6 (12V). So, do I go old school and tap the oil pan for the oil return line and run 1/2 qt. low, or go new school and tap the block (scary)? Also, for better flow should I change out the oil drain fitting on the s/c from the 90* to a 45*? In addition to a boost gauge I would also like to run oil psi/temp gauges, will I need to get the 42DD oil psi relocation kit....is this necessary to make that feasible, is there enough space in there on a vr6? I don't know how many ports I have available on the top of the oil filter housing, my Bentley doesn't specify. Oh, and what was that about changing the oil feed line fitting on the top of the s/c from the brass one to a stainless steel one to prevent leaks? Where can I source one, is there an easier fix or is this not necessary? I DO know that I will use Mobil1 15w50 oil, ngk bkr7eix plugs, t-bolt clamps on the psi side connections, and 70-90 ft.lbs. of belt tension. I also have an idler pulley from their stage 3 kit to help with the inevitable belt slip issues.:laugh:


ive had no problems with my tapped pan and a 90*, (even though a 45* would be ideal fitting) :thumbup: there should be 2 extra ports on top of the oil filter housing if i remember correctly. and i havnt seen a stainless feed nozzle for the v9 (v1 and v2 yes)


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I've got a question regarding the ****ty old Corrado MAF.
Was it ever determined what amount of boost/flow/power was too much?

I'm making 8psi right now without much issue. It's a bit rough up top, but I'm certain it's slippage as the pulley is too small, the belt is old, and the car doesn't buck or anything..

Setup is as follows;
10.5:1, gutted manifold, 2.5" dp back (no cat)

I've got an auxiliary pump to throw in when I'm making that level of boost.

I just want to know if anyone has any info on this sort of thing. I know I can gap plugs, as well as add some more piping between the filter and MAF in order to combat it. I'm planning on hitting 14psi with my setup, so any insight on the subject would be appreciated ;P

Would a MAF clamp plus AFC help out at all?


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

the smaller Corrado MAF seems to reach max 5v around 280hp. The max can be reached earlier or later depending on turbulence. Typically 12# or more seems quite common. It also highly depends on where your MAF is located. Closer to SC = more often, further = less. 

GIAC software uses the MAF clamp in their tune. it works but their tune has other issues like going lean w/ too much boost, additional mods. 

C2 has not incorporated the clamp, but says the tune is good for 300hp. its not! As we found out on my car, during a Jeff Atwood custom tune. 
3rd gear ratios tend to keep you in boost longer, this results in the MAF cutting maxing out & driving feel like you hit a rev limiter. 

W/ my maf extended, a 9.4:1 spacer & less boost, I rarely see this problem now, but I also make aprox 30hp less.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Hmmmm, probably a good time to think about standalone then?
I'm 10.5:1, MAF is only about a foot from the blower, and the cone is right on it atm


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

prometheus_ said:


> Hmmmm, probably a good time to think about standalone then?
> I'm 10.5:1, MAF is only about a foot from the blower, and the cone is right on it atm


Go with a Lugtronic, I just tuned a 12v with a V1 on 12psi of boost


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

KubotaPowered said:


> Go with a Lugtronic, I just tuned a 12v with a V1 on 12psi of boost


:thumbup:

Would likely go that route 
Someone send me like, $1500


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

prometheus_ said:


> :thumbup:
> 
> Would likely go that route
> Someone send me like, $1500


me too eace:


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

I'd upload the dyno plots but I don't have a scanner around. I can tell you that the torque curve on the Lugtronic looks like a damn table. It shoots up to near 260 by ~3500 RPMs and holds steady basically till redline. Its a very fast car on the street that will give the V8 guys something to lose sleep over at night


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

KubotaPowered said:


> I'd upload the dyno plots but I don't have a scanner around. I can tell you that the torque curve on the Lugtronic looks like a damn table. It shoots up to near 260 by ~3500 RPMs and holds steady basically till redline. Its a very fast car on the street that will give the V8 guys something to lose sleep over at night


Start makin' some friends!
I'd love to see that sheet 

What else does that particular car have?


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

KubotaPowered said:


> I'd upload the dyno plots but I don't have a scanner around. I can tell you that the torque curve on the Lugtronic looks like a damn table. It shoots up to near 260 by ~3500 RPMs and holds steady basically till redline. Its a very fast car on the street that will give the V8 guys something to lose sleep over at night


damn thats awesome. i thought my torque curve was pretty decent, but yours sounds real good! you have a bvh?

heres mine.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

prometheus_ said:


> Start makin' some friends!
> I'd love to see that sheet
> 
> What else does that particular car have?


3 liter, 9.5:1 compression, forged pistons and rods, ported exhaust manifolds, Snow water/meth, Bildon crank scraper, lightweight lifters, Autotech valve springs, DRC 268 cams, New South phenolic spacer, TT downpipes, 3 inch exhaust, no cat.


mk4vrjtta said:


> damn thats awesome. i thought my torque curve was pretty decent, but yours sounds real good! you have a bvh?
> 
> heres mine.


It's a stock head. I've got a print out that shows 310whp on a Mustang dyno. All the tuning was done with a 101 degree ambient air temp so its a safe tune. I can't wait for some cooler weather.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

KubotaPowered said:


> 3 liter, 9.5:1 compression, forged pistons and rods, ported exhaust manifolds, Snow water/meth, Bildon crank scraper, lightweight lifters, Autotech valve springs, DRC 268 cams, New South phenolic spacer, TT downpipes, 3 inch exhaust, no cat.
> 
> 
> It's a stock head. I've got a print out that shows 310whp on a Mustang dyno. All the tuning was done with a 101 degree ambient air temp so its a safe tune. I can't wait for some cooler weather.


its about 45* here right now..too bad my blower is sitting on my counter waiting for me to rebuild it. hopefully will get it all done this weekend, been itching to drive the car in this nice cool weather


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I like my torque, it matches my hp numbers :3


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

finally drove my shaved bay supercharged vr... it MOVES! no tune issues just wiring issues. to be expected with a wire tuck. and shifting issues. needs to be aligned. otherwise, i love it!


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

euroguy666 said:


> and shifting issues. needs to be aligned.


just keep it in 2nd or 3rd


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Hey guys, have a couple quickies for ya
12v OBD2 Mk3
V1
2.62 pulley (~13psi?)
262 cams
Mk4 hg
30# injectors
Testpipe
2.25 Magnaflow catback

I'm planning on upgrading my N/A C2 chip upon install but with this set up and 30# injectors will i be looking at fueling issues on the stock fuel pump? 
I plan on smoothing the a/c pulley(GF would never ride in the damn car if i ditched it:thumbdown
So what size belt would accomadate this?
I was thinking about leaving my Underdrive crank pulley on if I'm going to have fueling issues at 13psi instead of getting another pulley
What kind of power should I be seeing? like 240 or 250?


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

I'd step up to the 440cc fueling to be safe. I had issues with detonation and leaning out on 440cc injectors without an intercooler, same boost and 9.5:1 compression. Fuel pressure drops on the stock pump after 5500 rpms so an inline will be required.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

started to tear apart the s/c tonight. got everything taken apart. the bad bearing ended up being the one of the larger ones. the inner race on it was very pitted, and the cage broken. There also was a lot of metal shavings in there. fortunatly everything else looked perfect. will get more pics, just one for now from a cell phone.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

prometheus_ said:


> just keep it in 2nd or 3rd


i wish. its missing 2nd and reverse lol


----------



## bmxdarcy (Mar 7, 2006)

Youlostme, I have some green top injectors if you're interested. They're out of the original packaging but I had them tested by Linder Technical here in Indy and they're all good. PM me


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

With the amount of damage done and metal in the supercharger case. It may be a good idea to drop your oil pan and clean it as well just to be on the safe side? Or do a good oil flushing instead. I still need to change a seal next to the impeller but have never been able to loosen the bolt. Good luck on the rebuild.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

Scooter98144 said:


> With the amount of damage done and metal in the supercharger case. It may be a good idea to drop your oil pan and clean it as well just to be on the safe side? Or do a good oil flushing instead. I still need to change a seal next to the impeller but have never been able to loosen the bolt. Good luck on the rebuild.


yea, im just gonna try and flush it out, and see what comes out. just finished putting the s/c back together and put it back on the car. started it up, seemed very smooth and took it for a test drive. no funky noises so i hope everything is good. is there anykind of break in for new bearings? im scared to take it past 3500 and prolly wont for a while  lol ...anyways...time for a few :beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Am no longer going to drive my car to H20 
I'm worried that my passenger side drive axle is on its way out and it's supposed to be raining the whole time I'm going to be there (maf super low). Looks like I'm riding with my friend


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

I have a v2 setup on my mk3 vr.....looking into a 12psi setup with a water meth system.....do i need to get different software from c2 for the water meth kit?? i am running c2 # 42 software now......


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

so the tune for the c2 #42 doesnt need any changes for a water/meth kit or intercooler?? sorry if i dont understand it, but i would have thought i would need a different tune when adding/subtracting mods.....thats good news that i dont though.....


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

so is there a break in period for a freshly rebuilt blower?


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

To take full benefit of the water/meth a retune would be required. If all you are trying to do is lower IATs then run the system on your software.


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

anyone know what size belt i would need on a v2 setup with a 12 psi pulley (2.90)......i need to order a pulley and a belt and water/meth kit...how many rib pulley do i need? what water/meth kits are good and where to find these parts>??


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

mk4vrjtta said:


> so is there a break in period for a freshly rebuilt blower?


I like to do 500 miles of nothing over 3500rpms, then do an oil change and then bring it up slowly over the next 100 miles. But in all reality no break in needed.


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

Was just told to ask someone on here if they have the same setup as me to determine my belt length......its a vortech v2 blower, has a/c and power steering, going to put a 2.87 pulley on.....what size belt are guys running??

Also, what are the thoughts on the snow performance water/meth kit?? what are guys with mk3 vr's running?? their stage 1 setup or the stage 2 setup??


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Does anyone think it'ld be possible to organize this thread, preferably on page 1, with things like belt sizes and options, different pulley, what psi would you need bigger injectors and inline fuel
pumps, when stock compression is too much, and a lot of the other frequently asked questions? 
That would be awesome. 
And even just a list of everyones setups broken down, with power numbers even. 

just a suggestion... I don't have the knowledge or free time to put it together or I would


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5431161-FS-Supercharged-Jetta-VR6

figured I would post this in here and see if there was any interest looking to unload it quick so hopefully one of you is interested... very negotiable. thanks


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

what size of pulley shold i go if want about 13psi or max size to go and don't have belt slip?
right now i'm running 2,75


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

Praks said:


> what size of pulley shold i go if want about 13psi or max size to go and don't have belt slip?
> right now i'm running 2,75


20 tooth cogged.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

CorradoMagic said:


> 20 tooth cogged.


want, sooo bad :laugh:
delayed until spring though :thumbdown:


----------



## mushroom_curry (Apr 21, 2004)

prometheus_ said:


> Am no longer going to drive my car to H20
> I'm worried that my passenger side drive axle is on its way out and it's supposed to be raining the whole time I'm going to be there (maf super low). Looks like I'm riding with my friend


Just drive it and bring an axle down with you.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

Im bringing a few spare parts, was only going to bring the driver axle as this one breaks more often, but I have a p/s in stk. 
bring yur car, put it in the Gruppe Foto too.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Too late, plans have been made & I'm rolling down with my friend in a E30 with SR20 swap


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

do our blowers (v2) get really hot? mine gets pretty warm. my busdys self contained unit is nowhere near that hot. i realize they dont get as hot as engine oiled units. but still... sign of failing?


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

They get extremely hot, as hot as your intake manifold(metal). 
friction, compressed air & 200f oil will do that.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

okay. compared to a paxton selfcontained unit, it seemed a bit redic but yeah guess your right. going over last minute **** before h2o...


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

You can get a V5 instead if you like, it's self contained and probably the exact same model as the Paxton.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

the paxton is larger then the v2 itll prob hit the framerail or headlights. ill stick with what i have. just concerned


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

guys how much can i get for piping,housing to v9 with K&N filter and cover for it from vr6??


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

Praks said:


> guys how much can i get for piping,housing to v9 with K&N filter and cover for it from vr6??


housing to v9?


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

silocone black oryginal vf enginering housing(dk if i call it right)










generaly please help me with pricing of those elements (im going short intake and stand alone so i don't need this anymore)










how much for:
this - piping, silicone elements,K&N with cover
this - ecu stage 2 soft vf enginering and maf box
this - injecotrs stage 2 (310cc or 330cc ? )


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Paxton 1200 units are the same as the V3 [which are externally similar to the V2].


----------



## euro4-DoOr (Apr 9, 2004)

Praks said:


> silocone black oryginal vf enginering housing(dk if i call it right)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Pm me with a ballpark figure on pricing.....


----------



## skatedvs420 (Dec 23, 2004)

i want to piece together my own kit, because i really don't like the plastic pipes they come with and im more of polished items.

also can anybody please tell me about this Vortech aluminum bypass?

is that what i want or no? I want a loud sounding S/C on my VR.

Any help with this would be great.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

skatedvs420 said:


> i want to piece together my own kit, because i really don't like the plastic pipes they come with and im more of polished items.
> 
> also can anybody please tell me about this Vortech aluminum bypass?
> 
> ...


its just a diverter valve. just go with a forge 007 :thumbup: as for a loud s/c, since you have a mk3 you could go with a v1 blower, flows much more than the v9 thus having more potential, and is more robust than the v9. Also has straight cut gears (will be much louder than helical). def stay away from the v9 if you have the option :beer:


----------



## skatedvs420 (Dec 23, 2004)

vf engineering says the kit now comes with a self contained V3


----------



## skatedvs420 (Dec 23, 2004)

also with the 007, Id Perfer it dump out, i am new to this FI form.

What is everybody using the 007?

i just want a whining noisy bitch!!!!


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

dont get a kit through vf.


----------



## skatedvs420 (Dec 23, 2004)

Is there a reason why?


----------



## skatedvs420 (Dec 23, 2004)

Also VF wants to sell me a V3 now instead of a V2.

What's everybody opinion?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Don't bother with the V3.
Our motors don't flow enough air to take advantage of the larger blower.
It's something like a 5hp gain when I was looking into it.

If ANYTHING take a V1 instead of the V2 if they offer it.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

Anyone need a V1? Looking to sell one here. The whole AMS kit may go up for sale as well in the near future PM me for details.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

get a v3 no oil lines to mess with. its a self lubed unit. its the same blower as a v2 minus the oil feed and return


----------



## skatedvs420 (Dec 23, 2004)

euroguy666 said:


> get a v3 no oil lines to mess with. its a self lubed unit. its the same blower as a v2 minus the oil feed and return



are you positive?


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

skatedvs420 said:


> are you positive?


go right on vortecs site and compare. they run epicly cooler(making them more efficient) and it says right on there bolts up to v2 bracketry...


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I don't think that's enough reason to go that route.
Like I _just said_, our motors don't flow enough air to make the extra costs and fitment worthwhile.

Although the supercharger IS more efficient, the 2.8L VR6 doesn't push enough to take advantage.

The only time I'd consider a V3 is if it were going on a 3.6 
And even then, I'd only be CONSIDERING it over a V1


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

prometheus_ said:


> I don't think that's enough reason to go that route.
> Like I _just said_, our motors don't flow enough air to make the extra costs and fitment worthwhile.
> 
> Although the supercharger IS more efficient, the 2.8L VR6 doesn't push enough to take advantage.
> ...


http://gallery.034motorsport.com/index.php/034-A4-VR6T_001/Update0904/100_0417VR6TACAR

Take a look at this. It's 034 Motorsports old time attack car. If memory serves me it produced something like 800 hp. It's a VR6 12V. It flows LOTS of air to make that much power. 12v's take forced induction nicely because you don't have to worry about N/A issues. To be sure that is a huge turbo and it's in Audi. But then again it depends on how fast you want to go, how much money do you have? :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Like I said, unless your motor has plenty of toys like a worked head and everything else to make the power, a V3 will not offer significant gains to warrant the extra cost


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

prometheus_ said:


> Like I said, unless your motor has plenty of toys like a worked head and everything else to make the power, a V3 will not offer significant gains to warrant the extra cost


isnt that like saying a big turbo wont offer significant gains? :screwy:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

mk4vrjtta said:


> isnt that like saying a big turbo wont offer significant gains? :screwy:


No, because unlike a turbo your supercharger has a limit to how fast it can spin.
Superchargers are driven by the crank so you're limited to how much boost you can run.

The motor only pulls in X amount of air, and that typically isn't enough to achieve the maximum efficiency of the larger superchargers (V1 included). Vortechs are pretty much designed for the big displacement motors of north america.

A turbo isn't limited in the same fashion.

If you want to spend money, buy yourself a Rotrex setup.
Those are superior superchargers designed with smaller displacement engines in mind. They are more efficient, they have a higher rpm limit, and they flow just as much while being way smaller.

When I see someone is looking to buy a kit directly from VF, that tells me two things;
1. They haven't actually read up enough on superchargers
2. They probably don't have any significant work done to their cars

My 0.02


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

prometheus_ said:


> Like I said, unless your motor has plenty of toys like a worked head and everything else to make the power, a V3 will not offer significant gains to warrant the extra cost



If anyone has ever seen a cross section of a VR6 12V head knows that there isn't much "work" that can be done. Bigger valves don't show much gains either. That's why they really don't exist per se. However, as i said forced induction whether it's by gas turbo, or driven, i.e. supercharged, is another matter. Of couse only so much air can pass but 034 proved that BIG gains can be had with a VR6 12V. As far as costs go, whether you use a V9, V1, 2 or 3, the cost of any of those chargers is not a significant factor in the final cost (and possible mental pain too!!) of any forced induction project. You will spent 8-10k depending on how much work you do yourself or have some else do the work as I well know


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

If you can buy a V3 for the same cost as a V1/2, go for it.
For me, buying a used V1 and having it rebuilt for a grand total of maybe $2000, is a better deal than buying a used V3 for $4000, or a new one for more.

I stand by what I said, and I'm sure some of the veterans in this thread would agree with me.
Invest in a V1 or V2. Spend the extra dough on rebuilding them to T-Trim specs, as well as a cogged setup. That's exactly what I plan to do


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

prometheus_ said:


> No, because unlike a turbo your supercharger has a limit to how fast it can spin.
> Superchargers are driven by the crank so you're limited to how much boost you can run.
> 
> The motor only pulls in X amount of air, and that typically isn't enough to achieve the maximum efficiency of the larger superchargers (V1 included). Vortechs are pretty much designed for the big displacement motors of north america.
> ...


Well said, Ditto on points 1 and 2. I fell into that long ago, and regret any association with them. If I could do it over again, and I know what I know now, I'd would most likely have gone turbo, but as a glutton for punishment as i am I'm shooting for as close to 400whp supercharged as my budget allows. I don't think I will get there with out $$$$, but hopefully soon, I will cross 350 whp.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

groupracer said:


> Well said, Ditto on points 1 and 2. I fell into that long ago, and regret any association with them. If I could do it over again, and I know what I know now, I'd would most likely have gone turbo, but as a glutton for punishment as i am I'm shooting for as close to 400whp supercharged as my budget allows. I don't think I will get there with out $$$$, but hopefully soon, I will cross 350 whp.



:beer:


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

prometheus_ said:


> If you can buy a V3 for the same cost as a V1/2, go for it.
> For me, buying a used V1 and having it rebuilt for a grand total of maybe $2000, is a better deal than buying a used V3 for $4000, or a new one for more.
> 
> I stand by what I said, and I'm sure some of the veterans in this thread would agree with me.
> Invest in a V1 or V2. Spend the extra dough on rebuilding them to T-Trim specs, as well as a cogged setup. That's exactly what I plan to do


i have no clue where your getting your numbers from. 4000$$? its 2300to2500 on vortecs site brandnew... same as a v1 or v2 and im pretty sure its super close or the same as a v1 and v2. plus they run cooler. why wouldnt u get one?


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

groupracer said:


> I fell into that long ago, and regret any association with them. If I could do it over again, and I know what I know now, I'd would most likely have gone turbo, but as a glutton for punishment


definitely know where you are coming from. 

anyways, does the V3 bolt right up to the original V9 brackets and intake pipes from VF?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

2PointGoGoGo said:


> definitely know where you are coming from.
> 
> anyways, does the V3 bolt right up to the original V9 brackets and intake pipes from VF?


The V3 is built off of the V1/V2 casting architecture. So it will not work with the V9 VF brackets.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

In regards to cost, I was thinking of the V7


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

prometheus_ said:


> In regards to cost, I was thinking of the V7


yeah. the v7 is also huge. same as the paxton 2200sl thata on my buddys mustang


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

what does a blower sound like when bearings are going or gone in a blower? :/


----------



## spitfire481 (Mar 21, 2007)

FYI, factory water pump pullies are weak (atleast 24v), mine exploded last night lol. gives me a reason to throw a new pump in which i would probably need soon anyway, and a billet pulley. tension was not rediculosly tight but the crappy stamped, paper thin pulley could not take it i guess


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

I have a V2 now (yay!) but the oil feed for my V9 uses a pass-thru bolt ad coupler to route oil to the other line where as the V2 is just on in, one out. 
So is this what I need now? 
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VOR-8R100-002/ 

Or can I make the V9 one work by soldering the other little feed holes shut, or block them off somehow? 
^^^Nevermind, I just squeezed the money out of my wallet and got the right part. 

Is there a special filter inside of it tho? 

Thanks


----------



## euro4-DoOr (Apr 9, 2004)

youlostme21 said:


> I have a V2 now (yay!) but the oil feed for my V9 uses a pass-thru bolt ad coupler to route oil to the other line where as the V2 is just on in, one out.
> So is this what I need now?
> http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VOR-8R100-002/
> 
> ...


 that's what I have on my v2.........


----------



## euro4-DoOr (Apr 9, 2004)

Quick question....Would it be beneficial to run a dv with a v2 on 12lbs non intercooled?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

You always always always want to have a DV (or perhaps BOV for standalone) regardless of the boost level. 
Every time your throttle plate closes it pushes that pressure BACK into the supercharger outlet. 

This is bad for it and will shorten the lifespan of your supercharger. 
The air should be recirculated back before the blower


----------



## euro4-DoOr (Apr 9, 2004)

prometheus_ said:


> You always always always want to have a DV (or perhaps BOV for standalone) regardless of the boost level.
> Every time your throttle plate closes it pushes that pressure BACK into the supercharger outlet.
> 
> This is bad for it and will shorten the lifespan of your supercharger.
> The air should be recirculated back before the blower


 Thanks:thumbup:


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

What do you guys use for plugs/gap? I just used my usual NGK BKR7Es that I used to put in my turbo VRs gapped at .024. Seems my fuel economy might have gone down a bit along with transitions in partial throttle. I'm wondering if a BKR6E that is slightly hotter would help out or a larger plug gap. V1, stock compression, 10psi peak


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

crazysccrmd said:


> What do you guys use for plugs/gap? I just used my usual NGK BKR7Es that I used to put in my turbo VRs gapped at .024. Seems my fuel economy might have gone down a bit along with transitions in partial throttle. I'm wondering if a BKR6E that is slightly hotter would help out or a larger plug gap. V1, stock compression, 10psi peak


ive always used the bkr7e's gapped around .024 without any problems. :thumbup:


----------



## _drew.potts (Nov 8, 2006)

Great thread. I've spent a lot of time reading thru this. 

Question though, I'd like to supercharge my car at some point. 12v vr. But at the same time I'd actually like to get into something newer like a 24v. 

Are there any huge differences between supercharging a 12v than a 24v VR? I would think the 24v would be more expensive, but what about "upgradability"? It seems there's more 12v sc than 24v sc. Any reason? Or I could just be missing something. 

Thanks all


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

TurboJettsixtyfo said:


> Great thread. I've spent a lot of time reading thru this.
> 
> Question though, I'd like to supercharge my car at some point. 12v vr. But at the same time I'd actually like to get into something newer like a 24v.
> 
> ...


You can do the same stuff to a 24v, it's just that much of it will need to be custom.
More people own 12vs (arguably), so that's what really available.


----------



## LR-60 (Dec 18, 2008)

*Tapping the oil pan*

Does anyone have or can locate/post detailed pics for tapping the oil pan (welded bung) on a VF s/c install....location etc.? I'm definitely NOT drilling a hole in my block....it's probably somewhere here in this thread


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

LR-60 said:


> Does anyone have or can locate/post detailed pics for tapping the oil pan (welded bung) on a VF s/c install....location etc.? I'm definitely NOT drilling a hole in my block....it's probably somewhere here in this thread


if it's going on your mk4 you dont need to have a bung welded on. just drill and tap :thumbup: as for location, just make it as high as you can on the oil pan and pretty much in the middle


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

So doing some calculation today after I realized my nice tapped pan is too close to the stock harmonic balancer (my underdrive crank pulley was on the car during mock-up and had alot of room) so this leads me to a few choices. 
A) Try a new spot on the pan and weld the old hole shut
B) Remove the balancer off the stock pulley so it doesn't interfere with the drain fitting/line
C) Run the under drive pulley

I have a 2.62 pulley, so using the calculator on vortech, my impeller speed is right there with a 2.87 pulley (5" Underdrive/5.4" Stock)
I see -Throttle- seeing 12psi with a 2.87 but what is everyone else seeing? I seem to be getting mixed info, some people see 8 some say 12. 
I'm running a V2 unknown trim (bought as a rebuilt off superchargerrebuild.com)

Thanks


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

I think most guys are running a 2.87 for the 12psi.....I am new to the s/c world, but the little bit of research i have done has lead me to the 12psi=2.87 pulley......


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I think this needs reposting for those in need some some research assistance


----------



## Carlicious-Parts (Mar 19, 2011)

hmm.. we fitted a asa supercharger in a mk4. running 1,2boost at the moment.. but can do 1,6bar if needed  the charger is from a hurricane cc bmw with 800hp 

ill post a dyno later


----------



## V-dubbulyuh (Nov 13, 2005)

Nice... and different. :thumbup:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Neat!
If you're actually pushing 17psi and making good power, your A/W setup might not be *big enough* though. That size looks like the ones rated for 300, but @ 17psi you might be making more than that :thumbup:


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Oddly enough I hit 11psi @7000rmps. On a 3.125 pulley. Weird


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

euroguy666 said:


> Oddly enough I hit 11psi @7000rmps. On a 3.125 pulley. Weird


about the same here, on a v1


----------



## euro4-DoOr (Apr 9, 2004)

Carlicious-Parts said:


> hmm.. we fitted a asa supercharger in a mk4. running 1,2boost at the moment.. but can do 1,6bar if needed  the charger is from a hurricane cc bmw with 800hp
> 
> ill post a dyno later


is that a wastegate i see?:screwy:


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

euro4-DoOr said:


> is that a wastegate i see?:screwy:


Run a wastegate to bleed off boost pre MAF or pre MAP sensor and use a small pulley for quick boost i.e. 18 or 21 psi pulley on a supercharger but the wastegate limits it to 12 psi.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

euroguy666 said:


> Oddly enough I hit 11psi @7000rmps. On a 3.125 pulley. Weird


Seems about on par with the chart


----------



## Carlicious-Parts (Mar 19, 2011)

he simply puts the wastegate in to mess around with the boosts, and not to blew his car on the first mapping-tour


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

Carlicious-Parts said:


> hmm.. we fitted a asa supercharger in a mk4. running 1,2boost at the moment.. but can do 1,6bar if needed  the charger is from a hurricane cc bmw with 800hp
> 
> ill post a dyno later


Definitely sweet and different looking, strong runner, I imagine. :thumbup:


----------



## holladayego (Sep 29, 2011)

mk4vrjtta said:


> if it's going on your mk4 you dont need to have a bung welded on. just drill and tap :thumbup: as for location, just make it as high as you can on the oil pan and pretty much in the middle


so im getting ready to install a vf stage 2 kit on my mkIII gti and no where in vf's intallation instructions dose it tell me to tap the oil pan? am i missing something?:banghead:


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

I hate to do this but where can i get a belt for a v9 on a 12v with a 2.62 pully??? a DK070551 is too long, and i can not for the life of me fit a DK070536.... but i can not find any dual sided belt in any length inbetween


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

holladayego said:


> so im getting ready to install a vf stage 2 kit on my mkIII gti and no where in vf's intallation instructions dose it tell me to tap the oil pan? am i missing something?:banghead:


VF says to tap the block instead.
You could do either, and tapping the block is arguably better.. but most people don't want to touch their blocks as pans are cheaper to **** up


----------



## holladayego (Sep 29, 2011)

prometheus_ said:


> VF says to tap the block instead.
> You could do either, and tapping the block is arguably better.. but most people don't want to touch their blocks as pans are cheaper to **** up


i just realized that its a v3 charger not a v2 so its a self lubing set up :facepalm:


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

prometheus_ said:


> VF says to tap the block instead.
> You could do either, and tapping the block is arguably better.. but most people don't want to touch their blocks as pans are cheaper to **** up


I wouldn't do an f'n thing VF says, period.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

holladayego said:


> i just realized that its a v3 charger not a v2 so its a self lubing set up :facepalm:


:laugh:


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

VW_Sporting said:


> How many people are running cogged set up? Would like to get some feedback.


 I am & have been for aprox 3yrs.
what would you like to know?


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

websaabn said:


> I hate to do this but where can i get a belt for a v9 on a 12v with a 2.62 pully??? a DK070551 is too long, and i can not for the life of me fit a DK070536.... but i can not find any dual sided belt in any length inbetween




DK070551 is a 1400mm belt (2 sided) = 12v VR6 Eurovan AC belt.(which is 2 sided)
DK070536 is a 1290mm belt (1 sided) = 12v Eurovan/rado/G/J NON-AC belt (1 sided)

what length & single or dual sided are you looking for?


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

Dual sided around 54-54.5 inches


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

My math calculates that to be aprox 1350/55 in length. 
I dont see any 6, 7 or 8 rib dual sided in these lengths. 
however, have you tried the stock VR ac serp belt?
thats a 6rib, dual sided & is 1360. not sure if you have the extra tension but its aprox 5-10mm(1/2") longer.


----------



## euro4-DoOr (Apr 9, 2004)

I have a 3.12 7rib pulley for sale if anyone is interested.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

CorradoMagic said:


> My math calculates that to be aprox 1350/55 in length.
> I dont see any 6, 7 or 8 rib dual sided in these lengths.
> however, have you tried the stock VR ac serp belt?
> thats a 6rib, dual sided & is 1360. not sure if you have the extra tension but its aprox 5-10mm(1/2") longer.


with the 55inch belt i do not have enough adjustment to get the belt tight enough to not slip.


----------



## FourSeasonTuning.com (Jan 12, 2005)

*FS: V1 V2 Billet Impeller $515 shipped orange,ca*

Tested on a V3, used for 10 minutes. Increases boost and brings it sooner. Made for the Vortech V1 V2 that were found on the AMS and C2 kits.











More info here.
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/vortech_impeller.php

Thanks for looking. Full V3 kit for sale next, have piping for OBD1 and OBD2.

James


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I thought superchargerrebuilds.com sold those as well, for a bit less iirc


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

websaabn said:


> with the 55inch belt i do not have enough adjustment to get the belt tight enough to not slip.


the 1360 is aprox 54.4"
what about a 52.8" ?


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Hey, where are you guys buying the ducting to run your intakes? I hear about alot of people doing it but the only place i can find in rubber is $20 a foot which just seems crazy to me.


http://myustools2.amazonwebstore.com/Dynamometer-Exhaust-Hose-4/M/B000L7OO0E.htm

This is what I'm referring to. I don't know what you guys are running, the plastic stuff is cheap but I'm not sure it would hold up and tuck up well.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

I think I paid $20 for 5 feet of that stuff at HosePower USA


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

FourSeasonTuning.com said:


> Tested on a V3, used for 10 minutes. Increases boost and brings it sooner. Made for the Vortech V1 V2 that were found on the AMS and C2 kits.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Was the V3 designed after the V9 or before? When I sent my V9 into 928 to find out if they could make me such an impeller they said that the designs were different and not worth the time considering the technology when the V9 came out (impeller design wise). I've always liked the idea of self lubricating systems better but couldn't pass up the deal on a brand new kit from '04. 

FYI, I sent an email to superchargerrebuilds and all he could provide me with is it boosts quicker with the G trim but the F scroll needs modification and I'm not about to shell out the money on undocumented gains.


----------



## FourSeasonTuning.com (Jan 12, 2005)

*Re: 92jetta9a*

V3 was designed after the V9. This billet wheel was made for the V1 and V2.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

I use the Spectre brand plastic flex tuning. Its avail in blk. chrome, etc. Very lightweight & aprox 3ft IIRC. Its avail at Pep Boys, etc. For their Spectra DIY CAI kits/accessories. The hose includes both screw on type couplers for mating to the maf & SC.


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

FourSeasonTuning.com said:


> V3 was designed after the V9. This billet wheel was made for the V1 and V2.


I was told by 928 that the V9 had a newer design that changed to a more optimum vane design on the impeller which is why they couldn't do anything for me.

So the billet impeller designed for the V1/V2 increases boost on the V3 even though it (the V3) has the newer technological (better vane design to improve airflow) design? Is that correct? 

I'm sorry if my question previously was not clear, but this is what I was trying to ask. 

TIA


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

prometheus_ said:


> I thought superchargerrebuilds.com sold those as well, for a bit less iirc


Your are correct but 928 has the patent iirc, and there is no test data or validation with superchargerrebuilds.com impellers as there is with 928's.


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

What's your guys' opinions on a DV/BOV in an old AMS style setup with the blow through MAF? They didn't come with them and my setup has been running that way for many years without issues but I'm not really very comfortable with it. Seems that you would still get the back surge when the throttle plate closes at high rpm which can cause damage even if it hasn't yet.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

crazysccrmd said:


> What's your guys' opinions on a DV/BOV in an old AMS style setup with the blow through MAF? They didn't come with them and my setup has been running that way for many years without issues but I'm not really very comfortable with it. Seems that you would still get the back surge when the throttle plate closes at high rpm which can cause damage even if it hasn't yet.


id just throw a bov on it pre maf. you always want some sort of relief valve with a centrifugal s/c :thumbup:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Does anyone have a picture of someones setup that had their intake pipe going across the front and up by the battery tray? I need to get my intake off the ground as I'm not going standalone yet


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

That's exactly what I'm doing, all I need is the ducting to run across. The filter will tuck between the headlight and the battery under the lip or the fender. When it is together I will take a pic, but so far ambition for complete said project has been low.
Soon hopefully


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Well, my intake is as low as my lip (couple inches).
Sadly it looks like I'm going to have to winter my car so I need to raise it and the intake a fair bit


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

Run it ahead of passenger door, under the fender liner.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

KubotaPowered said:


> Run it ahead of passenger door, under the fender liner.


I don't have fender lining :facepalm:


----------



## FourSeasonTuning.com (Jan 12, 2005)

*C2 AMS VR6 S/C kit w/ Vortech V3, FIts 92-99 12V*

NLA

Kit content list:
Vortech V3 supercharger w/ 3.12" 10 psi pulley
C2 Bracket kit (powder coated black)
VMS support bracket (powder coated black ( no drilling head for extra support)
Vortech Idler pulley new bearings at install
S/C outlet to TB pipe OBD1 ( 3 ports ISV, V/C Vent threaded, and DV)	
C2 S/C outlet to TB pipe OBD2 ( 1 port for DV)
C2 S/C Maf to Inlet pipe ( 1 port for DV)
Machined A/C Pulley new bearing at install
K&N Filter & Dry wrap sock
Alloy air filter splash guard
Silicone couplers, clamps and hardware.
Bosch 710N DV
6-30# bosch inj Rebuilt at install by witchhunter
New 7 rib single side belt for A/C and P/S
New AMS Belt guard


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

James, you throwin in the towel? No more SC Rado?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

James is going 20v from what I hear


----------



## FourSeasonTuning.com (Jan 12, 2005)

Removed charger, not sure yet what is next.

I already have a 20V 5 cylinder.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

FourSeasonTuning.com said:


> Removed charger, not sure yet what is next.
> 
> I already have a 20V 5 cylinder.


Assuming you don't want to sell justvthe blower?


----------



## dubber89 (Feb 2, 2010)

anyone have any issues with the car running fine but everytime when you are driving and you come to a stop it idles rough for a while then fixes itself ? its been killing me for months, i have replaced many parts
setup:
97 gti 12v vr6,
obd2 , c2 30# w/injectors and 95mm maf
vortech v1 with 12.5 lbs boost pulley (not sure size)
9.4:1 c2 head spacer

also going to stage 2 w/ 42 lb injectors but staying at the same boost level, is it worth it? 

thanks in advance


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

FourSeasonTuning.com said:


> Removed charger, not sure yet what is next.
> 
> I already have a 20V 5 cylinder.


Thats not the real 20v  j/k


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

dubber89 said:


> anyone have any issues with the car running fine but everytime when you are driving and you come to a stop it idles rough for a while then fixes itself ? its been killing me for months, i have replaced many parts


where is your MAF located, and where is your recirculation line going to?


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

I have a stage 2 snow performance water meth injection kit installed now, and was just wondering about a tune....do i have to re-tune the car? or can i just set it to come on at certain boost, and if so what psi should i have it come on? running a 2.87 pulley on a v2


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

I need some help with improving my MPG. I'm getting a little frustrated to be honest. I just seafoamed, put in new spark plugs, replaced the air filter and the fuel filter and got WORSE fuel economy compared to the previous tank while driving the same route/speed/etc for both tanks. 

My average MPG over the last 1946 miles I've tracked is 21.5mpg with 79% city driving. My previous tank yielded 22.5mpg and I just now logged 19.5mpg. 

My setup is a 12v, stock compression, AMS V1 setup with blow-through MAF, 3.12 pulley

Edited to add that I have a corrado drivetrain (3.68 r/p) so my cruise RPMs are higher than most other VRs.


----------



## FourSeasonTuning.com (Jan 12, 2005)

*Re: euroguy666*

I can supply a new V3 for $1800


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

I hate to ask but I'm walking in circles. 
V2 w/ obd2 C2 30# software and injectors, 4" Maf. 

When first started the car idles ok, let it idle for about 20-30seconds and it starts to buck and surge, give it gas and it revs up fine but idles like garbage. Also happens when driving and coming to a stop it drops to ~450 rpm and bounces around, settle back at 900 but still bucks. 

Now the intake is routed across the front bumper and the MAF is on the drivers side (good 4-5 feet away from the charger) I tried a dif MAF, PCM, no change. 

If I hold the throttle steady at 1800rpm it will also dip and surge and I can hear the diverter valve opening and closing... Throttle body?

I'm thinking about doing the airflow straighteners in the MAF housing but am unsure if this will fix my issue since it seems more all the time then just right off throttle. 
Thanks to anyone with some insight.

*Had inches instead of feet... whoops.


----------



## dubber89 (Feb 2, 2010)

youlostme21 said:


> I hate to ask but I'm walking in circles.
> V2 w/ obd2 C2 30# software and injectors, 4" Maf.
> 
> When first started the car idles ok, let it idle for about 20-30seconds and it starts to buck and surge, give it gas and it revs up fine but idles like garbage. Also happens when driving and coming to a stop it drops to ~450 rpm and bounces around, settle back at 900 but still bucks.
> ...


there should be a charge pipe going to the supercharger from the throttle body say a foot long, then another pipe off the charger that goes down through the fender frame and then you put the MAF there, with the cone directly on it. the cone should sit close to the front lip on the passenger side. pretty sure the MAF should not be on the drivers side. also the diverter valve should be between the pre charge pipe and post charge pipe, with the vacuum line on the top going to the manifold


----------



## dubber89 (Feb 2, 2010)

also sounds like you could use a throttle body


----------



## dubber89 (Feb 2, 2010)

prometheus_ said:


> where is your MAF located, and where is your recirculation line going to?


my MAF is down towards the front lip with the cone right on it, the recirc line w/ diverter goes from pre-charger pipe to post-charger pipe


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

The set up is right. I just have it routed across the bumper so the filter is in the engine bay instead of being on the ground. 
I'm going to try another throttle body hopefully it will help.
The idle seemed alil better today but still surges on/off throttle, especially at lower rpms


----------



## zorak. (Nov 24, 2010)

idk if this helps but I took out my AC condenser in front of the radiator and made minor modifications to the bumper. Works for me


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

thoughts on a SRI for a s/c vr? i know torque will suffer, but top end should gain something??? ive looked at this topic for a while know and there is no definite answer. some people say dont do it, and some say they gained decent topend. anyone with back to back dynos or anything? :beer:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

mk4vrjtta said:


> thoughts on a SRI for a s/c vr? i know torque will suffer, but top end should gain something??? ive looked at this topic for a while know and there is no definite answer. some people say dont do it, and some say they gained decent topend. anyone with back to back dynos or anything? :beer:


I'd run a vgi or gutted setup over a sri.
My torque and power numbers are pretty even (238hp/232lbft) and I want to keep em that way


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

prometheus_ said:


> I'd run a vgi or gutted setup over a sri.
> My torque and power numbers are pretty even (238hp/232lbft) and I want to keep em that way


i can see where youre coming from...but if theres a decent gain id ditch my ghey plastic mani


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

oh right, derp, mk4.
no idea what choices you've got


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

crazysccrmd said:


> I need some help with improving my MPG. I'm getting a little frustrated to be honest. I just seafoamed, put in new spark plugs, replaced the air filter and the fuel filter and got WORSE fuel economy compared to the previous tank while driving the same route/speed/etc for both tanks.
> 
> My average MPG over the last 1946 miles I've tracked is 21.5mpg with 79% city driving. My previous tank yielded 22.5mpg and I just now logged 19.5mpg.
> 
> ...


I'd say you are doing pretty well MPG wise. 
my Rado window sticker MPG was 18/25 IIRC. thats new/stock on 15's. (rated @ 55mph w/i the now std 10% Ethanol added)
@ 79% city, your doing quite well.
Not sure if in your state, they add 10% Ethanol in the winter months? In NY they used to only do this in the winter, now its year around & this lowers MPG.

If nothing else has changed~ Have you gapped the plugs, (changed w/ same type ?) same gas station, tire pressures? (drop in cooler months) or simply driven much harder since you have 'new parts'


----------



## VDuBJett92 (Apr 30, 2004)

VW_Sporting said:


> How many people are running cogged set up? Would like to get some feedback.


i have it for about 2years... i dont like it.:facepalm: but the no slip is nice.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

VDuBJett92 said:


> i have it for about 2years... i dont like it.:facepalm: but the no slip is nice.


why dont you like it?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I imagine it's a fair bit louder and maybe puts more stress on the blower 
I'm trying hard to think of reasons here, I really have no idea.


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

Not to keep bringing this subject back but does anyone have any ideas on gas mileage issues with VF/GIAC stage 2 software. Seems I don't see about 16mpg on a good day and that is just cruising trying to conserve gas. granted its all city driving, just feel like my mileage should be a little better. 

I haven't seafoamed the car yet. not even sure if it will help. but at this point I feel like it's do that or just suck it up and get C2 software.


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

Just a quick question, what are the main differences aside from ECU/software in the MkIII and MkIV SC kits from VF?

I have seen that the discharge pipe on the blower is turned 180 degrees from the MkIV but that can be accomplished by loosening the clamp on the blower. Anything else major? As I'm running a SRI built off a MkIII lower, I have MkIII injectors and am selling the kit and someone with a MkIII is interested, wanted to be able to let him know.

thanks for any help and info. :beer:


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

anyone remove their "shifter rod" in the intake manifold on their mk4? i know it's there to keep air speed high in low rpm, and from 4k+ it "opens" to flow more air. my question is, when you have boost (whether from a turbo or s/c) wont that shifter rod become an obstruction to the airflow at any boost level? Just getting real sick of hearing this rattling a$$ manifold


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

The shifter rod opens a resonance chamber. It's not like the MK3 where it opens to longer runners. The camber is closed, a dead end if you will. The reason it works is as rpm increases, the pulses of air that back flow become shorter. The shifter opens at higher rpm to allow the pulses to enter the chamber and pulse back without dampening them. This acts as a multiplier if you will with the pulses in an additive effect increasing the differential pressure to the runner that cylinder sees, and acts like a ram effect. It is great for normally aspirating engines. It also acts on a narrow rpm band, that's why it opens after 4500 rpm. You could keep it open, but you would loose torque at lower rpm. This is a tuned runner system that works well within the confines of a normally aspirating system, that a forced induction system does not need for a street car. Forced induction engines are not really hampered with needing to rely on wave propagation pulses to increase horsepower and torque. That is why so many have short runners, and the shorter the better for flow, as long as the timing of airflow is equal to each cylinder. This not to say that bad airflow design will be made up with more boost, but it does take the requirement out of the equation, especially on a street car. Real race cars are somewhat different as they operate on a much narrower rpm band as opposed to a street car that needs to idle and get reasonably good gas milage, as well as to fit within the confines of a modern engine compartment.


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

I know c2 recommends it but do you really need to run an aftermarket fuel pump with a v2 running 12psi? i think i may have got one of the chinese knockoff walbro pumps cause it is soooo loud and annoying......any suggestions?


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

groupracer said:


> The shifter rod opens a resonance chamber. It's not like the MK3 where it opens to longer runners. The camber is closed, a dead end if you will. The reason it works is as rpm increases, the pulses of air that back flow become shorter. The shifter opens at higher rpm to allow the pulses to enter the chamber and pulse back without dampening them. This acts as a multiplier if you will with the pulses in an additive effect increasing the differential pressure to the runner that cylinder sees, and acts like a ram effect. It is great for normally aspirating engines. It also acts on a narrow rpm band, that's why it opens after 4500 rpm. You could keep it open, but you would loose torque at lower rpm. This is a tuned runner system that works well within the confines of a normally aspirating system, that a forced induction system does not need for a street car. Forced induction engines are not really hampered with needing to rely on wave propagation pulses to increase horsepower and torque. That is why so many have short runners, and the shorter the better for flow, as long as the timing of airflow is equal to each cylinder. This not to say that bad airflow design will be made up with more boost, but it does take the requirement out of the equation, especially on a street car. Real race cars are somewhat different as they operate on a much narrower rpm band as opposed to a street car that needs to idle and get reasonably good gas milage, as well as to fit within the confines of a modern engine compartment.


i get what youre saying, and thanks for going into that much detail, but my main question is would taking the shifter rod out increase top end because that is essentially another "obsticle" the air needs to get by.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

mk4vrjtta said:


> i get what youre saying, and thanks for going into that much detail, but my main question is would taking the shifter rod out increase top end because that is essentially another "obsticle" the air needs to get by.


Yes. Same as gutting a aluminum manifold. Allows power to be made to redline rather than to 6000 rpms.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

DeckManDubs said:


> Yes. Same as gutting a aluminum manifold. Allows power to be made to redline rather than to 6000 rpms.



any idea how hp there is to be made if i take it out? i dont know if you, or anyone else has done testing w/without it in.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

10 whp on a aluminum gutted manifold. Most likely it will be a little less as the plastic manifolds are designed to allow top end power with out the sacrifice of torque down low. Reducing resistance and increasing the volumetric flow = more power.


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

Just a question here guys.....I have a v2 setup with air and power steering, and has a 2.87 pulley. I just had a boost gauge installed and i am only getting around 8psi........I am a noob to the whole FI scene and have only had the car for a few months, maybe put 300km on it. Just wondering why its not reading around 12psi like i thought it would??


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

I'm running a 2.62 pulley and only seeing about 11 with a v2. 
I thought I'ld be doin better too


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

DeckManDubs said:


> 10 whp on a aluminum gutted manifold. Most likely it will be a little less as the plastic manifolds are designed to allow top end power with out the sacrifice of torque down low. Reducing resistance and increasing the volumetric flow = more power.


that's what i thought. ill pull it in the next couple days and see what my butt dyno says.(mine is accurate by the way). and in the spring ill do a back to back dyno since i dont think anyone has done it :beer:


----------



## Andivr6 (Nov 27, 2011)

*A litttle help for the new guy please*

Hello from Scotland.

Ive recently fitted a Stage 2 V9 Vortech Supercharger kit to my VR6 and im having a few teeting problems.

When checking throttle position it seems the ECU is only seeing 73% open at WOT.
I was also unable to carry out a TB reset using vagcom as it was saying ERROR when in basic settings.

Im also getting belt slip if you rev the car aggressively. Im using a Aircon belt for my non Aircon Setup.

Any Help Appreciated.

Here is a picture of my setup.


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

youlostme21 said:


> I'm running a 2.62 pulley and only seeing about 11 with a v2.
> I thought I'ld be doin better too


Was talking to a buddy and either the belt is too loose or too tight he says. What size belts are guys running to make around 12psi with ac power steering and a 2.87 pulley? I know there are lots of setups out there running something similar. What length belt makin 12psi on this v2 setup?


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

dmoe said:


> Was talking to a buddy and either the belt is too loose or too tight he says. What size belts are guys running to make around 12psi with ac power steering and a 2.87 pulley? I know there are lots of setups out there running something similar. What length belt makin 12psi on this v2 setup?


Also depends on how high you rev, if ur intercooled or not ect ect


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

I want to say its a 59" but dont qoute that. It shows no signs of belt slip, and on the gauge it shows a nice steady increase that peaks around 6k. 
Non intercooled setup by the way. I'll have to post some pics later.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

You'd be surprised how much boost you make in that last 1000rmp. Somebody a few pages posted a chart of pulley size and rpm compared to boost levels


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Yea my setup still needs alot of tweaking. Not going to lie, I kinda rushed it together before the snow starts flying. 
It runs pretty strong still. 
One question I have tho. I'm running a 1.8t Intake air temp sensor. I had it running in the maf housing on my n/a setup with the wiring all nicely ran through the stock harness. Now that I'm s/c I made a bung in my charge pipe for it so I wouldn't have to change the wiring. 
Issue now is it is open ckt across the sensor... 
Not sure when it happened if it was before or after I ran it s/c cause the ****ty C2 software doesn't throw a cel for this. I didn't even think of checking it till my cel came on for a P0171 lean code and the IAT ckt code came up with it. Cleared the codes and nothing came back. Fixed a couple clamps and hopefully have the lean code squared away. 

But would having it in the charge pipe cause an issue? The 1.8t's have them in the manifold so it see's boost psi in its normal application.


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

euroguy666 said:


> Also depends on how high you rev, if ur intercooled or not ect ect


Ya, i am not intercooled, but just installed a stage 2 snow performance water/meth injection system.....i usually shift before i get into the red, but i am one that doesnt like to redline the crap out of my car.....


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Quick pic of my setup. 









Still needs to be cleaned up a bit.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

dmoe said:


> Ya, i am not intercooled, but just installed a stage 2 snow performance water/meth injection system.....i usually shift before i get into the red, but i am one that doesnt like to redline the crap out of my car.....


Understood. Then you might not make as much boost as you'd like. That's why I went with a Schimmel motor/ hd valve springs. Car loves 7k+


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

youlostme21 said:


> I'm running a 2.62 pulley and only seeing about 11 with a v2.
> I thought I'ld be doin better too


Pulley is too small, you're getting a ****load of belt slip, guaranteed.
On intercooled, non-cogged setups, 12-13psi seems to be the average peak boost level running 2.87 pulleys.


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

At what rpm are you guys seeing this? I wish that chart a few pages back went by rpm too. 
This was just the pulley I had so I ran it. I will look into it further for belt slip tho


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

6-6500 rpm


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Ok thanks. Any input on the IAT placement?


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

Hey guys. I know there was a guy posting on here of his sc vr6 300hp mission. I think he acheived his goal. I know he was using a water meth injection system. Anyone have a clue?


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

dmoe said:


> Hey guys. I know there was a guy posting on here of his sc vr6 300hp mission. I think he acheived his goal. I know he was using a water meth injection system. Anyone have a clue?


there are a few of "us" i guess. some go with the water/meth(no pressure drop) and a few with v1/v2's go with intercooler because they can make more boost on the vr


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

i'm going air/water at some point


----------



## mk3alltheway (Feb 10, 2011)

A bit of a general question to ALL of your SC guys..

How reliable is a supercharged vr6?

I work full time and go to school full time so needless to say I dont have time to wait 4 months for a rebuild from vf. After reading the V3 upgrade to stage 1 thread it didnt seem that anyone stood behind VF. 

What kind of problems have you guys run into on a stage 1 charger setup?

For some reason I still want to go supercharged, Im just really hoping its not as bad as everyone says


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

I just drove mine (v1) cross country without issue. No issues in about 5k miles of daily driving in the last few months either.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Its basically a large tensioner until u get into the throttle


----------



## dubber89 (Feb 2, 2010)

Andivr6 said:


> Hello from Scotland.
> 
> Ive recently fitted a Stage 2 V9 Vortech Supercharger kit to my VR6 and im having a few teeting problems.
> 
> ...


i would say you need a new throttle body
try a goodyear gatorback belt i have always had good luck with those. also triple check to make sure its tensioned properly


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

youlostme21 said:


> At what rpm are you guys seeing this? I wish that chart a few pages back went by rpm too.
> This was just the pulley I had so I ran it. I will look into it further for belt slip tho


i see 13.4-6 psi consistently shifting around 7k RPM


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

mk3alltheway said:


> A bit of a general question to ALL of your SC guys..
> 
> How reliable is a supercharged vr6?
> 
> ...


Been driving mine since June, no charger related issues.
Will be driving it through the winter as well 

Same belt and all, which I really should be changing :facepalm:


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

mk3alltheway said:


> A bit of a general question to ALL of your SC guys..
> 
> How reliable is a supercharged vr6?
> 
> ...


i have never had any issues with my v1 or v2 charger, my v9 i had to rebuild because one of the bearings let go.


----------



## mk3alltheway (Feb 10, 2011)

prometheus_ said:


> Been driving mine since June, no charger related issues.
> Will be driving it through the winter as well
> 
> Same belt and all, which I really should be changing :facepalm:





websaabn said:


> i have never had any issues with my v1 or v2 charger, my v9 i had to rebuild because one of the bearings let go.


Awesome glad to hear! 

Is anyone running the updated VF stage 1 kit that comes with the V3?


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

mk3alltheway said:


> Awesome glad to hear!
> 
> Is anyone running the updated VF stage 1 kit that comes with the V3?


I've been thinking of switching to the v3 they run so much cooler. I doubt there will be any issues. Its the same blower as v1 and v2


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

euroguy666 said:


> I've been thinking of switching to the v3 they run so much cooler. I doubt there will be any issues. Its the same blower as v1 and v2


self contained units are the shizzz :thumbup:


----------



## x9t (Sep 19, 2005)

Just finish reading all the pages.. I wrote down some notes too.

I just Purchased the V3 Kit from James and plan to install it on my passat. Thanks for all the info guys!

JT


----------



## Dunkfan914 (Jul 21, 2008)

hey all its been awhile since i have last been in here. 

Today i took a deposit on my supercharger so its in the mixed of being taken off and sold :thumbup:

I have a few questions & i was wondering if anyone could help

This is my car with out a SRI 









And this is it with the SRI 









My supercharger is in the mixed ouf being sold and the kid is useing his stock intake mani i was wonder what i need to do / what material i need to get it to work with the stock SRI

any info would help


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

Got a nice surprise today when I took the gti to get emission tested - it actually passed, and very easily. HC ppm limit was 170 cruise/220 idle and registered at only 30/14. CO2 % was 1.2 and registered at .04/.01. 

:laugh:


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

:thumbup: Nice, healthy, fun I'm sure. 

I can't remember who asked for the pic of running the intake across the front but I had the bumper off the other day so










I need a different filter still, that one is too big and I had to "adjust" it to clear the headlight plug.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Holey tywraps batman! Like your color choices!


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

haha yea I know alot of zipties. And yea the color was jsut what I had. If I had all black I would have rather done that. I do need to mount the MAF housing better, this was kinda rushed honestly.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

youlostme21 said:


> haha yea I know alot of zipties. And yea the color was jsut what I had. If I had all black I would have rather done that. I do need to mount the MAF housing better, this was kinda rushed honestly.


:thumbup:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

youlostme21 said:


> :thumbup: Nice, healthy, fun I'm sure.
> 
> I can't remember who asked for the pic of running the intake across the front but I had the bumper off the other day so
> 
> ...


I'm the one who asked, so thanks for posting that 

I will have a far more elegant solution done for tomorrow 
It won't be the most *efficient* when it comes to intake temps, but it will be a whole lot better than what I currently have!


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Very nice, can't wait to see


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Some of the silicone needs to be cut shorter, but this is what I came up with:










Not the most efficient setup, but it's better than the intake being on the ground through the snow/rain of winter, and I can take it all apart without having to remove the front end or jack it up


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Might want to atleast have a heatshield between the filter and the Manifold. Your IAT's are going to be pretty steep.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

youlostme21 said:


> Might want to atleast have a heatshield between the filter and the Manifold. Your IAT's are going to be pretty steep.


One will be made, haven't done it yet 
As I said, this is simply something to get me through the winter, and not something I would recommend for performance


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

> Some of the silicone needs to be cut shorter, but this is what I came up with:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thank god its winter! :thumbup:


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

She is coming off the road on monday...
Took her out tonight for kicks since its pretty dry out, just freaking cold, and oh man does she pull when its cold! I love it, seeing about 12psi. 
Thank you guys for the help and knowledge in this thread :thumbup:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Yea, my box is running a whole lot better than before.
Turns out I had a pre-gauge boost leak from the recirc line, throttle response is a whole lot better now.

For added fun, since the intake is now IN the bay (for winter), the lack of leak and the mild crankcase vapours being taken in now allow for a bit of fire out the back :laugh:


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Always nice, If I hit 2nd or 3rd at full throttle/redline it will spit a nice fireball out the back. First time it happened it scared the crap out of me cause it lit up everything behind me for a second and I didn't know why haha


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

youlostme21 said:


> :thumbup: Nice, healthy, fun I'm sure.
> 
> I can't remember who asked for the pic of running the intake across the front but I had the bumper off the other day so
> 
> ...


haha thats how i did it on my friends mk3, but i did his all metal.


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

That looks nice, I just had easier access to the rubber hose and easier means of making it work. 

I do worry about it catching and tearing open, might make a little slip plate for it next year.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Standalone awaits me in the spring 
no maf, just a bit filter on the charger :thumbup:


----------



## napkin (Mar 8, 2008)

i did some nice install last week 




pushes 300whp


----------



## V-dubbulyuh (Nov 13, 2005)

napkin said:


> i did some nice install last week
> 
> pushes 300whp


That IC is hott. :thumbup:


----------



## napkin (Mar 8, 2008)

pwr liquid intercooler... its the best i know. i mean.. if somebody knows something bout cooling its the australians 

we do 2-3 sc cars a month... for more pics and more europe sc stuff like us on facebook  -> http://www.facebook.com/pages/Carlicious-Parts/209186765762357


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

PWR makes some awesome stuff, i just wish they would put their units' intended power ratings on their products. Come spring/summer I'm need something in the 300-350hp efficiency range that _fits_.

Not that I'm going to actually make that much, but you know what they say, aim high


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

So I have a question for you experts...

well, I finally bit the bullet and bought C2 software. got a 4 inch maf and 3bar FPR in the car its a stage 2 VF kit. took out the MAF clamp as well and still I get what feels like 'surging' at cruising speeds. it does not happen under full throttle just cruising. and the only code I have is: Fuel trim bank 1: system too rich. It also tends to hunt at idle but I was able to adapt the throttle body.

I have a relatively new MAF and front o2 sensor in the car. 

I was thinking its the throttle body but I dont want to waste the money if you guys have any better ideas. 

Thanks!


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

How close is the maf to charger?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

napkin said:


> i did some nice install last week
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Better be over 300whp :laugh:

Looks good :thumbup:


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

websaabn said:


> How close is the maf to charger?


Yeah thats what I was thinking could possibly be the issue but I haven't changed the distance since I first installed the kit. it needs to be a minimum of 18 inches from the blower right?


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

2PointGoGoGo said:


> Yeah thats what I was thinking could possibly be the issue but I haven't changed the distance since I first installed the kit. it needs to be a minimum of 18 inches from the blower right?


the further away the better. I have mine about 4 feet away on all my s/c cars i have done. on my wife's cabriolet i had the exact same issue until i extended the pipe, you can also try a flow straightener in the maf housing


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

how were you extending the piping. my filter is already at the bottom of my vr lip

haha! I scrolled up a little. It just seems like it would sit really low though. I saw that one a few months back that ran it up and over the passanger side wheel where that charcoal canister used to sit.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

2PointGoGoGo said:


> how were you extending the piping. my filter is already at the bottom of my vr lip
> 
> haha! I scrolled up a little. It just seems like it would sit really low though. I saw that one a few months back that ran it up and over the passanger side wheel where that charcoal canister used to sit.


the metal pipe on the one i posted above fits behind the lip, the bottom of the pipe is flush with the bottom of the lip.


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

*My S/C VR6 GTI*

I haven't posted here for a while, and now it seems that after 3 years I finally got my car back, so its time. I posted here early in this threads life when I first started and being me I couldn't leave well enough alone. The thread has a wealth of information and knowledge, I have read it from the beginning a couple of times. :screwy:

So this is the end of my saga. V2 si trim, United Motorsport 46# tune massaged by Jeff, Verdict cogged and some massaging by Innovative Motorsport. There's a couple of small details that will be addressed next spring, but they are minor and do not cause the any issues. 

I had so many issues with tuning for a long time. The intake/MAF was extended to inside and low in the engine compartment. It passes between the engine and radiator. This extended the MAF away from the charger which was causing lots of turbulence when it was near the MAF/BOV under the passenger side wheel well. Tom at Innovative told me he ran the car without the charge pipe connected and couldn't believe how much air was coming out of it at idle! No wonder there was so much turbulence at part throttle. Having the battery in the back helps free up some room in the engine compartment. Have yet to dyno/tune, but that will happen in the spring. On the gauge right now it's pulling 11 psi. Will see about that, should be more...  Non-Intercooled at this point, and with the discharge piping made of aluminum, and crossing just under the rebar behind the bumper cover, there is some thermal exchange going on. I've thought about the same w/a intercooler that NAPKIN has. :thumbup::thumbup:
I think it's a good solution as its small and relatively cheap. Been to their web site and if you believe what they say, it can do a good job. Besides personally, I'm not a big fan of the exposed FMIC look, but that's me.

I think some of you guys have the same fueling issues I had for so long. Too much fuel at part throttle conditions because the MAF is too close to the charger causing false signals to the ECU because of turbulent air, especially if you are using C2 type software. Every conversation I had with Jeff was how the MAF has to be at least 18" away from the charger. It is true, that in is the case, with his software.

I hope you guys like it and all questions, if any, will be answered. :thumbup::thumbup:

Seat of the pants dyno says 350 whp, but my buts has been known to be wrong, we'll see this coming spring... :thumb up:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I'm going to ballpark you at maybe 310whp and about 270lb-ft
torque robbing 

Have you considered running standalone like lugtronic?


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

> prometheus_
> I'm going to ballpark you at maybe 310whp and about 270lb-ft
> torque robbing


I've thought about it but standalone, and after what I've spent, it might have been a better path, but I felt at that time it was over kill for a supercharged car and too much $$$ LOL!!! Originally I was to have a custom tune from Eurodyne but that never happened. I waited for over a year with no results. 

I did have a VF kit previously (V9) and dynoed 313whp, but that was at 13#'s boost. The V9 puts out about 750cfm, the V2 about 1100cfm, so i'm thinking at least as much if not a bit more hp's even if the boost is only showing 11 psi. I do have 262 deg cams in the car too. We'll see...
Thanks for the estimate :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

AH cams, alright add another 25hp, and 20lb-ft


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

I can't wait to hit the dyno and get some real numbers. Or even hit the 1/4... guess I'll have to wait till spring... 
I'm hoping for a solid 275, but we shall see. 

I think that w/a would give you a huge leg up from your setup now. Might be a worthwhile investment. :thumbup:


----------



## napkin (Mar 8, 2008)

why so much of you go with a short runner.??? it costs so much torque in the lower rpms, the charger can never compensate 

just think about that way 









looks pretty sexy though


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I never thought about relocating the throttlebody, this gives me a few idea


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

You guys know anyone that rebuilds V9 blowers? 928motorsports just told me they dont work on them anymore. I just started getting this 'zzzzzz...' noise. not sure where to start.


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

You can try Noah at Verdict Motorsports. He's has rebuilt a few.

Here's a link to a DYI on rebuilding that was posted here a while ago:


http://www.starrland.com/Supercharger rebuild instructions 2-22-08.pdf

:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

2PointGoGoGo said:


> You guys know anyone that rebuilds V9 blowers? 928motorsports just told me they dont work on them anymore. I just started getting this 'zzzzzz...' noise. not sure where to start.


Time for bearings and seals. If the bearings really start to let go they normally take out the impeller and scroll = paper weight.


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

yeah, everyone I called keeps telling me its fairly normal and unless it sounds like ground rocks to not worry about it. I was told this by about a few companies and rebuilders.

oh and just a little background, I had vortech under warranty rebuild the charger about 3K miles ago...


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

2PointGoGoGo said:


> yeah, everyone I called keeps telling me its fairly normal and unless it sounds like ground rocks to not worry about it. I was told this by about a few companies and rebuilders.
> 
> oh and just a little background, I had vortech under warranty rebuild the charger about 3K miles ago...


How is your oil pressure?


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

haven't checked it yet. I am assuming checking it right off the blower would be sufficient (and easiest. lol.)


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

2PointGoGoGo said:


> haven't checked it yet. I am assuming checking it right off the blower would be sufficient (and easiest. lol.)


Pull the blower off, run the gage right off the feed line. 

You should be ~ cold 100psi-150psi and hot 30-50psi (@200 deg F)

Running 15-50 correct?


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

no running motul 5W-40. 15W-50 seems a little think for the weather up here.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

If you're around the Round Lake that I'm thinking of, you're not too far from me and I run 10w30 in the winter


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

2PointGoGoGo said:


> no running motul 5W-40. 15W-50 seems a little think for the weather up here.


Should be fine for winter months, once it gets above 60 I would run 15-50. Still running the stock pulley on the charger after the Vortech rebuild?


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

I am about 45 minutes north of chicago. But, it hasnt been exceptionally cold yet. mostly mid 30's.

and I am running a different pulley 2.62 but I have been running that for sometime now without any change in tone. although. this is the first winter the car has seen, it was just kept in the garage the last few years when it started to get cold.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

For anyonbe that is looking to build their own kit or buy one ready to go, I have one that I am selling out of the two that I have. The one that I am offering up as a complete kit features a V1 that has been rebuilt, new brackets & hardware, pvc hose & check valve, clamps, pulley hardware, idler pulley, belt and charge pipe. The used parts in the kit are from an AMS kit [hose connectors, oil lines, air filter and AMS software] and a used machined AC pulley. I have C2 30# software and a set of injectors as well as the latest brackets [block mount & double roller] if anyone wanted to upgrade it from what is listed above or even switch out the V1 for a new polished V5.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

2PointGoGoGo said:


> yeah, everyone I called keeps telling me its fairly normal and unless it sounds like ground rocks to not worry about it. I was told this by about a few companies and rebuilders.
> 
> oh and just a little background, I had vortech under warranty rebuild the charger about 3K miles ago...


Contact Todd at superchargerrebuilds.com he did mine with Abec 7 bearings and I beat the Hell out of the setup, never had a problem.

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk


----------



## 2PointGoGoGo (Sep 11, 2005)

sorry for the crappy cell picture. just had this made after a few suggestions. it's 3 inch aluminum. had some MAF issues after but cleaned it, and now is running much smoother. :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Bumping to say that it's -15 degrees centigrade and my dizzy vr with a V1 is running juuuust fine


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

prometheus_ said:


> Bumping to say that it's -15 degrees centigrade and my dizzy vr with a V1 is running juuuust fine


good to hear pal....i wont get to play with mine till spring.....need to figure out this "loss of power" issue...not sure if its a bad ground or if i need to adjust the throttle position sensor. hopefully get it figured out, fill up the water/meth kit and have some fun. need to unhook the loud walbro 255 tho. I think i should be ok with the oem fuel pump right?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

depends how much boost you're running.
I'm only pushing 7-8psi, so the stock pump is just fine. I have a bosch 044 I'll be installing once I double the boost.


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

prometheus_ said:


> depends how much boost you're running.
> I'm only pushing 7-8psi, so the stock pump is just fine. I have a bosch 044 I'll be installing once I double the boost.


Ya, i am running a 2.87 pulley, but its recently installed and only driven the car twice since it was installed, so i havent figured out exactly what psi its making at redline. Hopefully around 12psi. The walbro 255 pump i have must have been one of the chinese knockoffs cause its the loudest i have ever heard, and very annoying. Is the Bosch 044 quite a bit quieter?? Where did you order your bosch from?? did you have to order the proper fuel pump harness with it as well??


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

the 044 is louder then the 255. did you try insulating the pump?


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

I was told i shouldnt insulate the pump and trap heat and shorten the life of the pump. I am going to try and insulate it in the spring and see what kind of difference it makes. If i am going to take this pump off for something else, whats the difference if i shorten the life right?? whats the best way guys have insulated their pumps??


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

you certainly dont want to conceal the pump, but a simple rubber/silicone surround, a clamp/mount & most importantly rubber isolating bushings to keep the vibes away from the chassis. (dbl studded rubber mts like those on the AC line work well.


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

I thought I should post this here.... Let me start by saying I have a VF stage 3 V9 supercharger and I finally got it running correctly but I was on the road 2 days ago and pulled up to a newer body style mustang and blew him away. I don't know if it was a v6 or 8 but im hoping an 8 haha. :thumbup:


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

What chip can you guys recommend for an obd1 dizzy vr6 with the maf after the charger?

Gonna be using either a v1 or v2 head unit.


----------



## rhussjr (Aug 7, 2000)

Your limited in choices for the application, but C2 or UM are the most chosen options for dizzy use.


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

rhussjr said:


> Your limited in choices for the application, but C2 or UM are the most chosen options for dizzy use.


UM?


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

BlackSwan said:


> What chip can you guys recommend for an obd1 dizzy vr6 with the maf after the charger?
> 
> Gonna be using either a v1 or v2 head unit.


After the charger you are looking at custom, standalone or some old AMS software. The current off the shelf tuning options are all designed with the maf pre-charger.


----------



## mk3alltheway (Feb 10, 2011)

crazysccrmd said:


> After the charger you are looking at custom, standalone or some old AMS software. The current off the shelf tuning options are all designed with the maf pre-charger.


Arent blow thru mafs entirely different? I wonder what the oem mafs peg out at..


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

mk3alltheway said:


> Arent blow thru mafs entirely different? I wonder what the oem mafs peg out at..


Nope, the old setups were like that. I'm running either original AMS or a custom C2 tune (last owner wasn't sure and I haven't checked) with the stock corrado maf. Runs like a champ too, just a little lean at wot.


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

Aren't the old AMS chips tuned for stock injectors as well??


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

Yep, that's why I run a little lean and can't take full advantage of the boost I make. I dyno'd about 220whp on a mustang at ~10psi, but with stock injectors that's really pushing it. With better fueling and tuning I could be closer to 280whp. Standalone is in the future somewhere, but for now it runs like a factory car but with 70whp more.


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

Just checked the FI classifieds & there hasn't been one of those AMS chips fs for months.

I guess I'll look into the C2 30# obd1 dizzy chip & red tops.


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

If you can swing it just go standalone from the get go. It will make more power, get better fuel economy, and run smoother.


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

Eh, a $1K plus standalone setup isn't in the cards for me for a setup like this. I just wanna drop in the chip, inj's & drive it!


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I'm running an OBD1 Dizzy VR w/ a V1 unit.
Filter -> MAF -> Charger -> TB

Runs great, no issues.
The only downside is that you WILL max out the MAF, but that depends how muhc power your making. Judging by my research, people tend to max out around 275-300whp, but it entirely depends on your setup. 

I plan on going standalone and do other mods before I try and make more boost.
ie: header, diff, awic, lsd BEFORE more boost


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

prometheus_ said:


> I'm running an OBD1 Dizzy VR w/ a V1 unit.
> Filter -> MAF -> Charger -> TB
> 
> Runs great, no issues.
> ...


Which chip & injectors are you running?

Any pics of your setup?


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

BlackSwan said:


> UM?



http://www.unitedmotorsport.net/


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

I have an old atp chip that has the maf post charger. Its somewhere around here...


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

BlackSwan said:


> Which chip & injectors are you running?
> Any pics of your setup?


I'm running a C2 30# Dizzy chip, and 30# Injectors.
I'm not running any extra gear whatsoever. No EGR, no EVAP, & no ISV.
You don't need to remove any of that, but my ISV was pooched and the person who was running the elbow prior to me didn't have the emissions recirculating (hence why it's got a breather).

The idle is determined by the set screw, and I've got one of *these* to install so I can replace that breather & reroute any crankcase vapours directly into my exhaust (post o2).


This is how my car is setup for the winter;









It wouldn't be the best placement for intake temps in the summer, but considering how it's just above freezing outside, it's perfect 
Idles, pulls, and runs like a champ.


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

Thanks everyone for all the info :thumbup:


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

Picking up a vf-engineering v9 stg1 kit this weekend for my mk2 vr6. 

I don't have a/c or pwr steering. Anyone know what length belt or belt part# I need?

I called VF today but they were no help. Kept telling me to send them emails when I was speaking to them on the phone. :screwy:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Unless someone chimes in with the exact same setup...
Your best option will be to attach the blower, measure, then pop over to your local shop.

If it's anything the places around here, they probably have a warehouse nearby with what you need and can get it to you before the end of the day if you order from them early enough


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

BlackSwan said:


> Picking up a vf-engineering v9 stg1 kit this weekend for my mk2 vr6.
> 
> I don't have a/c or pwr steering. Anyone know what length belt or belt part# I need?
> 
> I called VF today but they were no help. Kept telling me to send them emails when I was speaking to them on the phone. :screwy:


I have no ac or ps but I have a v2 with a 3.12 pulley and I think I have a 50.1 inch belt. Its something to work off of.


----------



## holladayego (Sep 29, 2011)

I used this for inspiration on my 97 gti that I'm in the middle of putting a stage 2 v3 kit on it I'll post a pic to show what I end up with


----------



## [email protected] (Jul 25, 2008)

*my set up*

Did another dyno at 034 motorsports let me know what u guys think.
2002 Gti vr6 12v 
stage 2 vf v9 supercharged 8lbs of boost 
C2 tune 30#injectors
268 euro spec cams
ported exhaust manifold 
TT downpipe 
2.5in b&b cat back 

dyno results 
air/fuel 12.5 
245hp and 205tq


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> Did another dyno at 034 motorsports let me know what u guys think.
> 2002 Gti vr6 12v
> stage 2 vf v9 supercharged 8lbs of boost
> C2 tune 30#injectors
> ...


what kind of dyno?
i didnt know c2 has a tune for 30# injectors. what injectors are those, and im assuming they fit in the stock mani?


----------



## [email protected] (Jul 25, 2008)

it was an Pro" 1000 AWD Chassis Dyno. C2 doesnt but they custom made one for me and they are the injectors from the vf kit 
Vf stage 2 injectors are 30# 330cc


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> it was an Pro" 1000 AWD Chassis Dyno. C2 doesnt but they custom made one for me and they are the injectors from the vf kit
> Vf stage 2 injectors are 30# 330cc


hope you dont mind me asking, but how much was the tune from them?


----------



## [email protected] (Jul 25, 2008)

550$ it was better than VF they wanted 750 for their stage 2


----------



## [email protected] (Jul 25, 2008)

u know 034 told me their dyno would show less power i just dont know by how much


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

no, i didnt know they told you that  as long as the car pulls hard and runs good :thumbup:


----------



## [email protected] (Jul 25, 2008)

205tq just seems low


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> 205tq just seems low


That would be the result of 268s & a V9


----------



## [email protected] (Jul 25, 2008)

so i would need more boost in order to see the results well that i cant do 
im already at 12.5 af lean so if i upgrade i would need bigger injectors and a retune to much of a headache and waste of time


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I don't think more boost wouldn't really increase your hp/torque ratio.
I honestly couldn't tell you what would make up some more torque, it really seems to be a byproduct of the V9 blower. To make more power you could always run some cooling if you aren't already.

By comparison my 12v has 2.5" exhaust, gutted manifold, and 10.5 compression, no other mods.
However I'm running a V1 currently at about 7psi and my hp/torque is pretty damn even @ 238/232.

I don't know if anyone has done some tests on supercharged VRs with different cams.
I know the 268s are super popular for NA applications, but I remember reading somewhere that 248s were the better option for our needs. Something about them being a pain in the ass to map out properly on boosted cars.


----------



## [email protected] (Jul 25, 2008)

i bought a stage 1 water meth kit that im gonna install um im kinda upset about running lean i honestly want to say the 4in maf that c2 requires is making me run lean


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

when i put the schrick 268's in my wifes the midrange fell off but its an animal up top. i am sure the cams are why you have such low TQ and the V9 dosnt help either.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> Did another dyno at 034 motorsports let me know what u guys think.
> 2002 Gti vr6 12v
> stage 2 vf v9 supercharged 8lbs of boost
> C2 tune 30#injectors
> ...


Not bad. I know on a VRT 268's on 17psi yield 40whp  But that is with a tune for them. The C2 tune is a bit weak when it comes to cams on a VR6-SC, not bad but not great.


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

euroguy666 said:


> I have an old atp chip that has the maf post charger. Its somewhere around here...


If you manage to find that chip please let me know! Paypal ready.

Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

BlackSwan said:


> If you manage to find that chip please let me know! Paypal ready.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk


Ill check my house in an hour or so


----------



## [email protected] (Jul 25, 2008)

so i wanna say my car is running lean at 12.5 a/f because C2 requires a 4in maf i think the 4in is just to much 
and is it really worth it for me to get like 262 cams or 256 like will i really notice a huge difference


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

256s have always seemed like really solid cams for a supercharged car.

Here's a dyno with DSR 256s and the old z-engineering supercharger:









As you can see, they gain a nice bit of torque all over, compared to stock cams.
268s are nice on N/A cars because they help solve the VRs weak top end.
You don't _really_ have that problem on a boosted car.

With that said, you'd probably lose some whp, but gain a nice bit of torque.

My dream motor setup (not including blower) would be vgi+256s+standalone :heart:


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

I'm currently having a similar dellemma. I have the Vf stage 3 V9 blower with front mount and tune. If all the funds line up right I want to get cams, water/meth kit and a retune. I'm hoping to have 300whp at least afterwards... There's not much else to do, just a downpipe and some kind of aftermarket manifold. I do also have a catback 2.25 exhaust.
My problem is that I'm not sure what cams to get and what tune. I was leaning towards 268's but now I'm thinking about 256's and I was leaning towards a C2 tune but I don't think my MAG housing is 4". It's the R32 MAF housing which I think is 3 or 3.5.
Any advice??


----------



## [email protected] (Jul 25, 2008)

i heard autotech 262s are one of the best cams to run with a supercharger 
upgrade ur injectors to 36# get the c2 software and everything should be fine 
thats where i messed up i chose the wrong cams euro spec 268s i have to keep the car at 4k rpms and above and i didnt wanna spend the money on new injectors so i left them 30# 
i also got a stage 1 water meth kit so ill let u know how that goes when i install it 

i tried 3 different MAF housing the software i had was written for 4in maf 
first i tried my 3in maf the car was idling all messed up 
than i tired a audi 3.5in maf and the car ran great a little bit of an idle issue when i would stop
than 4in maf  omfg the car wont move its just suckin air and im 20% lean 

i looked into it and found out the injectors were 30# 330cc from VF so i had to retune from 36# to 30# and car runs great just a little lean 
i went from A/F 13.8 to 12.5


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

Which c2 software should I get? Am I better of just calling them?


----------



## VR6DPLMT. (Mar 1, 2003)

Or you could call UMS and see if they can burn a chip for you.


----------



## [email protected] (Jul 25, 2008)

stage 1 c2 is what u want


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

My car seems to have developed a big of a misfire or timing problem :thumbdown: 
Can't quite figure it out as it only occurs at high rpm while under heavy load (in boost). 

I've replaced the plugs so that wasn't it. 
The cap/rotor were replaced in the summer. 
Fuel filter was changed last week. 

I'm leaning towards the plug wires, and maybe the ICM. 
Since it's cheap, I'm going to change the rotor and see if that fixes it. 

I'm wondering if perhaps an increase in belt slip may be causing it. 
Or maybe even the weather, as it's routinely around 0 degrees celsius (or lower) at this time of year. 

Thoughts? 
- V1 
- C2 30# Chip 
- 30# injectors 
- OBD1 Dizzy


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

what did you gap the new plugs at? i have found the wifes does not like the gap any bigger then 26, so i keep them at 22... the problem you are explaning sounds like too big of a plug gap


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

I just had the same problem with my s/c VR. My engine would surge when I got on it and at high rpm's. If you ignition system is pretty old, it's probably that. I replaced my spark plugs and coil pack before I had that problem. Replaced my ignition wires and that fixed the problem. Something in your ignition system is probably arcing. Try doing the spray test with water at night.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

@websaabn, 
My plugs are gapped @ 28, as they always have been  



blackgolf1990 said:


> I just had the same problem with my s/c VR. My engine would surge when I got on it and at high rpm's. If you ignition system is pretty old, it's probably that. I replaced my spark plugs and coil pack before I had that problem. Replaced my ignition wires and that fixed the problem. Something in your ignition system is probably arcing. Try doing the spray test with water at night.


 May be, but there isn't really anything to arc (that i can see). 
My car doesn't have a coilpack


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

weak coil? did it do it before you replaced the plugs?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

websaabn said:


> weak coil? did it do it before you replaced the plugs?


 I had MAF related issue which was solved before i changed the plugs. 

I've been unemployed for a while now, so I don't drive as much. But I never noticed it, and if it was happening, but if it was it wasn't anywhere near as pronounced. 

It's possible that it's the coil/icm, but those are the last thing on my list to replace, as they are the most expensive parts  

I'm borrowing a set of good wires tonight, and I'll hopefully get a chance to gap the plugs @ 22 during the weekend. If that stuff doesn't fix it, then I'll try replacing the cap/rotor (even though it's not even a year old) and then move up to the coil/icm. 

I'm praying this isn't MAF related. 
At worst, I'd rather it be a somewhat fried ecu or something, since I have a spare


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

Don't just jump straight to .022, try .026/.024 first. It's easier to go smaller if you still get misfires than to resize larger. The bigger the gap the better your ignition will be.


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

Would anyone happen to have a pic of the old _(V9 kit)_ vf engineering idler bracket & pulley bolted up to the side of a VR? 

I searched this thread & vortex but all the pic links are dead. 

Just trying to see where the idler pulley sits in relation to the charger pulley, alt. pulley, how the bracket mounts, which holes are used & etc...


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

bracket uses the alternator bolt holes. just take the stock bolts out and pop on the bracket with the longer bolts. :thumbup: ill see if i can find a pic when i get home later


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

mk4vrjtta said:


> bracket uses the alternator bolt holes. just take the stock bolts out and pop on the bracket with the longer bolts. :thumbup: ill see if i can find a pic when i get home later


 ^ :thumbup: 

Which of the 3 remaining holes does your idler pulley use?


----------



## [email protected] (Jul 25, 2008)

does anyone know where i can get a v9 supercharger pulley 2.5in


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

BlackSwan said:


> ^ :thumbup:
> 
> Which of the 3 remaining holes does your idler pulley use?


 in the pic above, im pretty sure its 2nd one from the top. the idler will then sit between the s/c pulley and the water pump pulley.


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

mk4vrjtta said:


> in the pic above, im pretty sure its 2nd one from the top. the idler will then sit between the s/c pulley and the water pump pulley.


 :thumbup: 

In the pic above is the bracket right side up or upside down? 

I do not have pwr steering or a/c so i'm real interested in seeing a pic of this mounted up.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

BlackSwan said:


> :thumbup:
> 
> In the pic above is the bracket right side up or upside down?
> 
> I do not have pwr steering or a/c so i'm real interested in seeing a pic of this mounted up.


 pretty sure it's right side up. once you get it on there it's easy to see which way it goes. :thumbup:


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

mk4vrjtta said:


> pretty sure it's right side up. once you get it on there it's easy to see which way it goes. :thumbup:


 ^ I got the part in hand yesterday & figured it out as soon as I laid eyes on it in person. :thumbup: 

I wanna build a nice set of stainless braided an lines for my V9 to replace the vf eng rubber oil feed/return lines. 

Can anyone confirm the size? 

I searched & only found one thread in the archives which says the oil feed is -4an & return is -8an. Just wanted to doublecheck before I ordered any parts.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

crazysccrmd said:


> Don't just jump straight to .022, try .026/.024 first. It's easier to go smaller if you still get misfires than to resize larger. The bigger the gap the better your ignition will be.


 Gapped the plugs today, problem still exists :banghead: 
The cap/rotor could be the problem, but they are under a year old. 
I'm also wondering if perhaps one of the injectors is faulty, maybe stuck open or partially clogged 

Going to pick up some injector cleaner and see if that helps at all :facepalm:


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

this may be relavent to you. If your getting a miss-firing issue, or at least something that seems like miss-firing and you have changed plus, cap, rotor and wires and even the coil, but it still exist, check the following. EGR soleniod and other soleniod just behind the engine at the cannon plug for the main harness, if you have deleted the EGR and the soleniods still connected, it is possible to get a grounding issue which feels like miss-firing. We had this on a 93 Corrado and once the solniods were completely unplugged, the issue went away.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I'll check my grounds and connectors tomorrow when its light out. 
It's very possible that something is grounding out. 

I seafoamed my tank tonight and it seems to be running a whole lot better, but I can still feel the issue. Going to replace my rotor as it feels pretty similar


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Following up yesterday; 
In addition to a can of seafoam in the tank, I put about half in the crankcase. 
Checked my grounds and connections, and everything that was disconnected has now been taped up. 

Car runs waaaay better now, and it's not very noticeable anymore. Will see if the seafoam clears out the system as it works through it


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

Since the weather has been so nice here.....I pulled the gti out of its hole. At the end of last season, i had the car in having a few things done. I bought the car with a v2 on it but the guy had not boost gauge. So i had one installed. I am running a 2.87" pulley with a new belt. The boost gauge is only reading around 6psi at 7000 rpm. As i get on the gas, it jumps up to 5-6psi around 4000rpm and stays there right till 7000rpm. Whats going on here. I thought guys were seeing around 12psi with this size pulley? Any thoughts guys? 

Setup: 
Vortech v2 
c2 #42 software 
440cc injectors 
lightweight flywheel 
wossner 9:1 pistons 

a lot more to list, but i just dont understand why its hitting 5-6psi then staying there right through to 7000rpm?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

It's possible that the belt is either worn out or not the right tightness.
It could be too tight or not tight enough.

and i know what you mean, the weather has been great
GREAT CANADIAN WINTER, EH?


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

Hey pal.....Ya this winter has been a bit of a joke.

The belt is brand new. When the car was in the shop, i had him put a new belt on. I am new to FI so i am not sure if the belt is too tight or too loose? Whats the best way to figure this out?? I am not too sure of the length he put on. 

I also still have that brand new 2.87 pulley for you when you want it.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

dmoe said:


> Hey pal.....Ya this winter has been a bit of a joke.
> 
> The belt is brand new. When the car was in the shop, i had him put a new belt on. I am new to FI so i am not sure if the belt is too tight or too loose? Whats the best way to figure this out?? I am not too sure of the length he put on.
> 
> I also still have that brand new 2.87 pulley for you when you want it.


Awesome awesome, i will get to you in a week or two :heart:
The best way I was figuring out my belt tightness was to start with it NOTICEABLY slacking, then tighten from there. When you think it's tight (not overtight), take it for a rip. Then if you're still not getting the numbers you expect, tighten it a little more and go for a rip again.

It's really nice to have a good stretch of road so you can boot it, park, adjust, and boot again


----------



## holladayego (Sep 29, 2011)

I have a stage 2 VF kit with the V3 blower on my 97 VR6 GTI. and i was wondering if i do not have the little check valve that goes in between in the vacuum line that goes from the case vent to the side of the manifold would that cause the car to idle strange it has sort of a wondering idle.


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

Anyone have a part# or source for this style pancaked & oblong shaped K&N filter?

I think they used to come with the old AMS kits.


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

i also need part number of such a kind of filter to my v9 :thumbup:

great bay btw :heart:


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

K&N filter RC-3180 3-1/2" connection


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

Rheinland Technik said:


> K&N filter RC-3180 3-1/2" connection


:thumbup:

I was just taking a closer look at this filter over on the Summit Racing site. What is the purpose of the little nipple that sits on the face of that filter... diverter valve recirc? crankcase recirc??

Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/120587006055?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648

Nipple is for PVC circuit or cap off if you chiise not to run it.


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

Rheinland Technik said:


> http://www.ebay.com/itm/120587006055?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648
> 
> Nipple is for PVC circuit or cap off if you chiise not to run it.


Thanks man you've been very helpful. :thumbup:

I'm assuming when you say PVC circuit you mean I can route the crankcase vent nipple on the valve cover to the nipple on the filter with an inline check valve?


----------



## Andivr6 (Nov 27, 2011)

Id like the part number for the K&N that sits in the flowerpot for the V9f Vortech setup.

Can anyone help ?

Thanks


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

I've read this entire thread over the last week, & I know more about supercharging than I could have ever learned on my own.

Even though there seem to be an equal list of pros & cons, I've wanted a supercharged VR since my first 12V.

Does anyone make a mounting kit (brackets, etc.) for a V1/2/3 frame charger for a 24V VR6?

I can source fueling from UM & the charger from a number of places, but I've been unable to find what I'm looking for. Verdict & Four Seasons sell "MKIV" brackets, but they all look to be on 12V VRs.

Any help/direction would be appreciated. 

:thumbup:


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

You can use the 12V bracket kit as long as you replace two of the pieces with 24V specific parts that I have designed if your fitting it in a Mk2 or Mk3. If your Mk4, the Verdict 12V kit will most likely work with a little modification.


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

Excellent!! Thanks for the info :thumbup:

Are they still producing those kits? There's another thread in here stating that they're not making the cogged sets anymore, is that all they're not doing?

Maybe Noah or Phil can shed some light on that...

That said, their kit looks likes it's designed with their cogged pullies in mind:

http://www.verdictmotorsports.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=0135 

Would the bracketry work without the aux-drive cogged setup?


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

They will have to answer your questions.


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

That's what I figured, though your contributions to this thread have been very informative & eye-opening :thumbup:

Edit: Page 133...


----------



## dasGolf01 (Aug 23, 2004)

I know this isn't a FS thread, but just in case anyone is interested, I have my used SC kit that I'm selling. Stage 2 VF w/ the V9. Blower was rebuilt about a year ago. Looking for 2k for it, the piping and intake are customized as I ran an SRI, but that's coming off today so the piping will be stock but sort of piece-mealed. If you have the right code on your ECU, I'd be fine with swapping that too. I'd also want to swap injectors, thus my lower price. I'll throw in my Gruvenparts billet water pump pulley as well since I immolated my OEM one within a year but have a backup stock one.


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

Anyone have pics of a FMIC setup with a SRI on a rado or mk2 chassis?

Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk


----------



## holladayego (Sep 29, 2011)

I've got a VF v3 kit on my VR and I've got all the stage 2 hardware and software but I am only seeing about 5psi of boost and my car seems to be running rich and I thought a stage two kit could support 8-12. Maybe I'm wrong??? What size pulley should I have to run 8psi, 10psi, and 12psi?


----------



## x9t (Sep 19, 2005)

Do you know what size you have now? Are you running a Intercooler?

JT


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

holladayego said:


> I've got a VF v3 kit on my VR and I've got all the stage 2 hardware and software but I am only seeing about 5psi of boost and my car seems to be running rich and I thought a stage two kit could support 8-12. Maybe I'm wrong??? What size pulley should I have to run 8psi, 10psi, and 12psi?


I have a vortech v2 witha 2.87 pulley and should be good for around 12psi but I am only seeing aroind 5psi. I was told it could have to do with belt tension. I need to adjust this to see if I get the 12psi out of it


----------



## holladayego (Sep 29, 2011)

I just through a mesuring tape on it real qiick to fet a rough guess and it looked right around 3.5. Im am not running a intercooler right now but i am going to be putting a chemical intercooling set up on here soon.


----------



## Rice Rice Baby (Sep 30, 2008)

*High pressure fuel pump*

I need to know what part # the VF fuel pump and where to buy with the exception buying from VF.


----------



## spitfire481 (Mar 21, 2007)

Rice Rice Baby said:


> I need to know what part # the VF fuel pump and where to buy with the exception buying from VF.


for my mk4 VF in tank pump, they ground the part number off. there is a genesis in tank pump that usrt sells thats identical though


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

I'm nearly done piecing together my s/c setup & was wondering what sort of numbers (whp/tq) I could realistically expect out of it? Anyone wanna take an educated guess?

This is my first boosted VW!! 

Vortech V9 f-trim w/ vf eng bracketry
Vortech 2.46" pulley
vf eng single idler
C2 30# obd1 tune
315cc red top inj.'s
Aeromotive RRFPR
Water Inj.
small fmic 19x6x2.5
greddy type RS bov w/ recirc kit


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

Anyone gone with mega-squirt for standalone? I'm leaning towards that route but don't really know much about it at all and could use more info.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

BlackSwan said:


> I'm nearly done piecing together my s/c setup & was wondering what sort of numbers (whp/tq) I could realistically expect out of it? Anyone wanna take an educated guess?
> 
> This is my first boosted VW!!
> 
> ...


You should see maybe 10-11 psi, and I'd hazard about 220whp & 200lb-ft.
235 tops


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

prometheus_ said:


> You should see maybe 10-11 psi, and I'd hazard about 220whp & 200lb-ft.
> 235 tops


Errmmm, I was hoping to hit the 250whp range but 220whp should be plenty fun in a gutted mk2 chassis! :laugh:


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

BlackSwan said:


> I'm nearly done piecing together my s/c setup & was wondering what sort of numbers (whp/tq) I could realistically expect out of it? Anyone wanna take an educated guess?


well, my SC setup is similar to yours and I'm currently @ 257 WHP and 216 WTQ

_


_

setup consists of:

OBD1 VR rewired to OBD 2 running an older C2 motorsports stage 1 turbo/tune 36 lb/hr red top injectors (stock VR FPR, stock mk2 fuel delivery system)
techtonics tuning 260/264 camshafts
ported exhaust manifolds
stock downpipe assembly to test pipe to 2.5" TT catback
Vortech V9 F trim mounted with regular old VF bracketry
2.5" pulley
non additional idler setup (yay for belt slip)
non inter-cooled into stock (non 2.9 cloned) intake
I see 7-9 psi on the gauge
bosch 710N diverter valve
Quaife LSD (I routinely lose traction into third gear)

new exhaust for 2012 for just a notch more power (more for sound than anything)

:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

You've got cams and some exhaust work (ported stuff even), I stand by my original prediction


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

scirockin16v said:


> well, my SC setup is similar to yours and I'm currently @ 257 WHP and 216 WTQ
> 
> setup consists of:
> 
> ...


Nice numbers! :thumbup:

Yeah I forgot to mention I'm running a supersprint header, no cat & a 2.5" headerback exhaust.

Only thing that seperates us really are cams.


----------



## holladayego (Sep 29, 2011)

are pullies sizez to boost numbers simmilar to the v2 & v3 I have a v3 and i want to run 8-10lbs of boost so i need to know what size of pulley to get.


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

prometheus_ said:


> You've got cams and some exhaust work (ported stuff even), I stand by my original prediction



Sure thing :thumbup: I wasn't contending your prediction, its spot on. Blackswan will no doubt have lots of fun with it. 

Blackswan: Can we see some video when you've got it running?


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

Yep... pics & vids once it's done! :thumbup:

Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk


----------



## 01VR6Red (Nov 28, 2011)

HI, I have a build planned out for summer and just wondering if someone could give me a guess at my hp? and any advice on what other parts i might need/be useful
Car is an 01 12v VR6 5 speed
either a C2 tune or vf from what I've been reading with 8psi of boost
VF supercharger stage 2 
Port air manifold for 2.9l
2.5 in cat-back exhaust
OBX header unless someone has a better brand
MSD coil pack conversion
already have stage 1 clutch kit and 13.5lb flywheel


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

I'd say 210whp


----------



## BEE-JAY (Apr 11, 2004)

question i read somewhere that giac chips delete the sai i have a stage 3 vf kit with giac software can i ditch the sai with out a code?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

crazysccrmd said:


> I'd say 210whp


Agreed, the OBX header isn't going to give you anything.


----------



## 01VR6Red (Nov 28, 2011)

prometheus_ said:


> Agreed, the OBX header isn't going to give you anything.


Maybe not hp wise but converting it to forced induction, wont flow more efficiently with aftermarket header


----------



## 01VR6Red (Nov 28, 2011)

crazysccrmd said:


> I'd say 210whp


Thanks


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

gtiguy18t said:


> question i read somewhere that giac chips delete the sai i have a stage 3 vf kit with giac software can i ditch the sai with out a code?


GIAC chip does not provide that provision. You would have to go with C2 or UM.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

01VR6Red said:


> Maybe not hp wise but converting it to forced induction, wont flow more efficiently with aftermarket header


The only header to actually proven to make improvements is the S2Metalwerks (now Schimmel) header. Porting exhaust manifolds does more than the OBX iirc 

I'm sure it'll sound great though


----------



## 01VR6Red (Nov 28, 2011)

prometheus_ said:


> The only header to actually proven to make improvements is the S2Metalwerks (now Schimmel) header. Porting exhaust manifolds does more than the OBX iirc
> 
> I'm sure it'll sound great though


Alright thanks alot


----------



## 01VR6Red (Nov 28, 2011)

prometheus_ said:


> The only header to actually proven to make improvements is the S2Metalwerks (now Schimmel) header. Porting exhaust manifolds does more than the OBX iirc
> 
> I'm sure it'll sound great though


**** idk if its worth the 900$ though lol


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I dunno man, 10hp & 15ftlb-ft is a fair bit to gain on a stock VR.
Expensive sure, but can't argue with results!


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

I'd have one if I were rich. Unfortunately I'm not. I look at $900 and see standalone that will net me +40whp/50wtq, better fuel economy, and smoother running.


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

Just looking for some belt sizes guys...... 

V2 with 2.87" pulley
A/C 
Power Steering

Any ideas??


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

0.5" - 1.0" shorter than belt used on motor with 3.12" pulley.


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

Rheinland Technik said:


> 0.5" - 1.0" shorter than belt used on motor with 3.12" pulley.


And what size is that?


----------



## 01VR6Red (Nov 28, 2011)

crazysccrmd said:


> I'd have one if I were rich. Unfortunately I'm not. I look at $900 and see standalone that will net me +40whp/50wtq, better fuel economy, and smoother running.


"see standalone"??


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

01VR6Red said:


> "see standalone"??


with that $900 he could spend on headers, he would rather put that on standalone....


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

01VR6Red said:


> "see standalone"??


When I consider spending $900 on my car it isn't going to be towards a header, it will be for standalone engine management.


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

crazysccrmd said:


> I'd have one if I were rich. Unfortunately I'm not. I look at $900 and see standalone that will net me +40whp/50wtq, better fuel economy, and smoother running.


If memory serves the Genie and OBX actually lost power against the stock manifold/downpipe setup. The S2 made 10whp and 15wtq on a stock 12v with I believe the only supporting mod being a p-flow intake. Gains with forced induction, or in everyone's case on this forum, a blower, you can expect them to be much higher then advertized. 

Not to be the bearer of bad news, but 40whp and 50wtq is a pipe dream for a basic supercharged setup. Driveability will be MUCH better, yes. Your gains will be noticeable, but to that extent. Unless of course your tune was complete rubbish, I'm afraid you will be disappointed if you're going after merely a number. All I can say is aside from running a basic GIAC stage 1 or 2 tune, every off the shelf file runs too rich. We've seen more engines with washed out cylinders from running junk files meant for turbo engines. If you want basic power, a simple VF kit will suffice. Otherwise for bigger power don't waste your time with stock management and "custom" :laugh: tunes.. bite the bullet and go standalone. 

Phil


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

MeCarTay said:


> Not to be the bearer of bad news, but 40whp and 50wtq is a pipe dream for a basic supercharged setup. Driveability will be MUCH better, yes. Your gains will be noticeable, but to that extent. Unless of course your tune was complete rubbish, I'm afraid you will be disappointed if you're going after merely a number. All I can say is aside from running a basic GIAC stage 1 or 2 tune, every off the shelf file runs too rich. We've seen more engines with washed out cylinders from running junk files meant for turbo engines. If you want basic power, a simple VF kit will suffice. Otherwise for bigger power don't waste your time with stock management and "custom" :laugh: tunes.. bite the bullet and go standalone.
> 
> Phil


Maybe that's a bit optomisitic, but I don't think it's too crazy. I'm still on ancient AMS tune with stock injectors. I make about 11psi peak and only dyno'd at 210ish whp because of the poor fueling and basic tune. I figure with better fueling and tuning I could make 250whp probably. Aim high, right?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

crazysccrmd said:


> Maybe that's a bit optomisitic, but I don't think it's too crazy. I'm still on ancient AMS tune with stock injectors. I make about 11psi peak and only dyno'd at 210ish whp because of the poor fueling and basic tune. I figure with better fueling and tuning I could make 250whp probably. Aim high, right?


11psi lands you in the 230-250whp. 210 sounds like something is up with the setup. I did 229 on 8psi on stock cams and stock down pipe/cat.


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

crazysccrmd said:


> Maybe that's a bit optomisitic, but I don't think it's too crazy. I'm still on ancient AMS tune with stock injectors. I make about 11psi peak and only dyno'd at 210ish whp because of the poor fueling and basic tune. I figure with better fueling and tuning I could make 250whp probably. Aim high, right?


Which dyno did you run on? Certainly very low for 11psi.. Even if you were running a V9. 

With a stout setup a switch to standalone won't net you quite those gains unless it comes with supporting mods. If you don't have cams already, I suggest you get some. Help move you into a more desirable power level. Keep in mind though by changing those you'll obviously need a tune, so something to do when a management switch is being undergone.

Nothing wrong with optimism, but realistic always wins :laugh:


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

Pretty sure was on a mustang, I posted the dyno sheet a while ago.


----------



## 07Blanch (Sep 1, 2007)

*idler*

Hey everyone. To the guys running dual idler setups, do you happen to know the bolt size and thread type for the smaller idler? As far as I can tell the small idler is from the 1.8t (part number VWW071906 or 058.109.244). I am very much contemplating adding one to my setup. Thanks :thumbup:


----------



## rhussjr (Aug 7, 2000)

The factory bolt is M9, but finding a bolt and tap to match it will be harder to find than opting for an M8x1.25 bolt which works just as fine for adding the secondary idler roller to an existing bracket.


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

Flamesuit on! 

I was just curious to know if anyone here has sprayed a small shot of nitrous with there supercharged vr6? 

I know it was pretty popular back in the day with the G60 guys & was wondering if it translated over well in a vr6sc application?

I figured you could kill two birds with one stone having a small increase in hp/tq & the intercooling effect of running nos.


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

I've thought about it before. Ran a 75hp wet shot on a n/a vr6 and it was extreqemely fun


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Ah yes, busy day today 
Relocated battery to the rear, installed bosch 044, and 2.87" pulley.
Waiting on the belt to arrive tomorrow, so I haven't had a chance to rip around yet.

For future reference, we measured 57.75" @ the least possible amount of tension.
The belt ordered was a 58-3/8" 6-rib.

My setup is a V1 on AMS bracket, 2.87 vortech pulley, with single idler, with power steering, and no AC (100% deleted). The motor is a 12v Dizzy "from" a 93 Corrado, rebuilt with 10.5 compression and bottom end from a 2000 12v, running 30# injectors and matching C2 software.

I'll update/edit this post when I get the belt tomorrow, and let you know how much boost I'm seeing.
I'm a bit concerned I may max out the early VRs MAF, but my buddy has a hunch that the threshold is running 14.7lbs of boost, since that is atmospheric pressure.

edit: updated post with belt length

I'm still only managing to see about 9psi, so I'm probably going to notch the pulley tomorrow


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Slight bump.
I can't find the post, but does anyone remember who had cut notches into their pulley?


----------



## vdubb03 (Apr 4, 2010)

Ahh I've been looking for this thread! I have a vf stage II kit for my 03 24v gti.. The kit included Giac software inter cooler fuel pump injectors. I am looking into more power I dont want to keep hearing GET A TURBO! Please any ideas or info


---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?x2pu5b


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

prometheus_ said:


> Slight bump.
> I can't find the post, but does anyone remember who had cut notches into their pulley?


I cut some in a pulley for obdOne


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> I cut some in a pulley for obdOne


How did it work out, is it safe to assume that it solved most of his slippage issues for the cost of belts wearing out a bit quicker?


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

BlackSwan said:


> I'm nearly done piecing together my s/c setup & was wondering what sort of numbers (whp/tq) I could realistically expect out of it? Anyone wanna take an educated guess?
> 
> This is my first boosted VW!!
> 
> ...


This pulley will likely exceed the Bearing's RPM limit of your V9 resulting an exploding V9 or if your lucky, just an expensive rebuild.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

prometheus_ said:


> How did it work out, is it safe to assume that it solved most of his slippage issues for the cost of belts wearing out a bit quicker?



It solves a good bit of the slip. ~10% reduction in belt life.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> It solves a good bit of the slip. ~10% reduction in belt life.


Good to know


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

I sandblasted my pulley and cut notches in it, it defiantly helped.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

have a couple supercharger pullies for sale! both are 7 ribs! check em out!

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...gineering-S-C-pullies&p=76425731#post76425731


----------



## MexicanPsycho (Apr 10, 2004)

prometheus_ said:


> Ah yes, busy day today
> Relocated battery to the rear, installed bosch 044, and 2.87" pulley.
> Waiting on the belt to arrive tomorrow, so I haven't had a chance to rip around yet.
> 
> ...


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Sure am  
Making 11psi now after some fiddling :thumbup:


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

prometheus_ said:


> Sure am
> Making 11psi now after some fiddling :thumbup:


 Post some vids!!


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Soon perhaps, I'm definitely not making/putting down optimum power since: 
A. My intake is now over my exhaust manifold, and I've got a hood to fix that (mk3 hood w/ 2nd gen legacy scoop, which needs to get painted) 
B. I'm also not intercooled at all 
C. I found out I don't have a 4bar FPR installed, which I'm supposed to (early Corrado swap) 
D. I'm still getting some slip because I'll only hit 11 psi if I start in a low gear 
E. I don't have a diff  
ie: 2nd gear pull and up, are cool, but if I start a pull mid 3rd gear I won't hit 11 

1st gear -> instant redline  
At any rate, I estimate I'm making 270-280whp now, since I was making 238 with 7psi. 
Being that this is a distributor car with the *****ty* MAF, I'm pretty smug


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

You dont need a intercooler, just W/M


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

Water/Meth is the ****


----------



## MexicanPsycho (Apr 10, 2004)

prometheus_ said:


> Sure am
> Making 11psi now after some fiddling :thumbup:


 
good job! What software are you running?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

You really think that W/M would be just as good if not better than some form of intercooling? :sly: 



MexicanPsycho said:


> good job! What software are you running?


 C2 30#


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

prometheus_ said:


> You really think that W/M would be just as good if not better than some form of intercooling? :sly:
> 
> 
> C2 30#


 I used w/m in place of an intercooler on my 15psi stock compression vrt making 350whp. Intake manifold would be cold to the touch after hard pulls on the highway and IATs were comparable to my friend's mk4 vrt running an intercooler at similar boost levels.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Good to know  
I need to change my tires, my fronts are cooked and I never even launch or do burnouts in the thing :screwy:


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

I am running no intercooler at 13psi with a mk4 gasket, no detonation and the IAT stays cool even in the summer. Just get a nice kit that uses more then a maf signal to turn it on. I have mine set to kick on @ 0.2 psi


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

prometheus_ said:


> Good to know
> I need to change my tires, my fronts are cooked and I never even launch or do burnouts in the thing :screwy:


 Clear your inbox pal, i cant send you any messages.....was going to talk to you about that pulley i sent you


----------



## vdubb03 (Apr 4, 2010)

Anyone know where to get a smaller pulley for the 24v vf kit? I just have the vf stage 2 kit


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

websaabn said:


> I am running no intercooler at 13psi with a mk4 gasket, no detonation and the IAT stays cool even in the summer. Just get a nice kit that uses more then a maf signal to turn it on. I have mine set to kick on @ 0.2 psi


 Cool, are you injecting pre or post charger? 



dmoe said:


> Clear your inbox pal, i cant send you any messages.....was going to talk to you about that pulley i sent you


 cleared


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

Running it post charger


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

websaabn said:


> I am running no intercooler at 13psi with a mk4 gasket, no detonation and the IAT stays cool even in the summer. Just get a nice kit that uses more then a maf signal to turn it on. I have mine set to kick on @ 0.2 psi


 
at .2psi? so basically any amount of boost & you get W/M injection? 

Are you on Standalone? did you tune for this? 

I sell SnowPerformance kits, they come w/ 3 diff sized nozzles. Which one are you using(in whatever kit your running)? 

Do you have any other IC/etc? 

Where is your nozzle placed? 

How long have you been running w/ the MK4 HG? I broke my ring glands #12-15# when running the MK4 HG. 
Now I have the 9.4:1 spacer & only see about 11# w/ the same pulley. I also do not exceed the Corrado MAF limits now. (*might also be from MAF placement now too, opposite site of car. , zero idle/bucking issues). 

thx 

I plan to add the Stage 1 SP W/M kit to my car this summer.


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

I had mine set to come on at 9psi using a devils own kit and a 350ml nozzle placed right before the throttle body. I was on a c2 36# obd1 coilpack tune and it didn't cause any problems


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

After looking into it a little, staggered injection might be the best bang for your buck. 
Injecting before and after the supercharger. 

As for MK4 HG issues, I'm not having any either (that I know of). 
My car isn't burning oil or coolant, pulls hard, and doesn't smoke. 
However, talk of problems has me a little worried about pushing for a little more boost


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

ive had w/m for over a year now with no problems. dual nozzle setup, one in the boost piping a few feet from the throttle body and one right after the throttle body. i plan to change it up and run a small precompressor nozzle to maybe get a free pound of boost and keep the s/c cool, then have one right after the s/c, then one right at the throttle body. we'll see how it works out...ive heard nothing but good things from running it before the s/c. the only people that ive seen that had impeller damage are those with bad nozzles. the nozzles that are sold now spray such a fine mist that it shouldnt be an issue, especially when running a good amount of meth because of its low flash point.


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

Looking for input on a temp solution to my lean running. I am on old software which runs the maf after the charger and uses stock injectors. I was told that this is a custom c2 tune that 1552 had done for the car but it seems to pretty much be the same as the old AMS tune. At high rpm I start to run lean. I am considering getting a rising rate for to try to dial in some more fuel over the 4 bar for I have installed now. I,m also waiting in my lc-1 to arrive so i would be able to somewhat tune in the amount of extra fuel I need. Does this seem like a viable solution until I can go stand alone on the car?


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

CorradoMagic said:


> at .2psi? so basically any amount of boost & you get W/M injection?
> 
> Are you on Standalone? did you tune for this?
> 
> ...


 I am running a Stage 4 labonte w/m kit uses map sensor and injector pulse to determine spray, I can not remember what nozzle it has on it. I set it to come on at such a low PSI because it was recomended by the tuner when I got my R tuned so I did the same on my wifes car. I have been running the mk4 headgasket @ 13 psi for about 2 years the engine has about 160K on it and still does 195-185 on all 6 cylinders, does not smoke aside from a little when i start it if its been sitting for a few days. The car is a old 36lb chip tune from C2... nothing custom. I have no other intercooler, the nozzle is about 4 inches after the charger outlet. 


I am sure one day the engine is going to give, but untill that day I will keep pushing more out of it:laugh:


----------



## mars2 (Sep 16, 2008)

websaabn said:


> You dont need a intercooler, just W/M


 Would you say the same for a R32 with Vf StageII? 
Would be a good way to remove that restricting intercooler and gained a couple of PSI from that Kit. 

Then implement new bracket and belt tensioner system from HPA


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

mars2 said:


> Would you say the same for a R32 with Vf StageII?
> Would be a good way to remove that restricting intercooler and gained a couple of PSI from that Kit.
> 
> Then implement new bracket and belt tensioner system from HPA


 I ran a intercooler and W/M on my R just because the compression is so high, and the engine in them isnt as easy and cheap to come by as a 12v vr6 if something goes wrong


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

drove the car home from the body shop yesterday for the first time since last fall......car didnt run very well at all....hasnt had an oil change since fall, and i am sure the gas is a bit "dated", but the car just didnt accelerate like it should. Through most of the gears, the car felt like it was fighting with itself to accelerate. almost like it was misfiring or something. I am going to try the spray bottle on the coild pack when it gets dark tonight, but i am not really sure what else it could be. I am definitely going to do an oil change, fill up with 94 octane, and see if that makes any difference. I also may have found the reason i am only seeing 5psi with a 12psi pulley. The previous owner installed a turbosmart BOV on a c2 tune instead of a DV. I spoke to Chris at C2 and he said I could be losing boost through my BOV. I just ordered a forge DV so hopefully that will make a difference. I am sure there are going to be some adjustments to make to see the 11-12psi, but thats ok. I just want to figure out why the car seems to be fighting with itself to accelerate. When you cant get wheelspin in first gear, there is a problem.

obd2 vr6
v2
c2#42 software
2.87" pulley with a/c and power steering


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

dmoe said:


> drove the car home from the body shop yesterday for the first time since last fall......car didnt run very well at all....hasnt had an oil change since fall, and i am sure the gas is a bit "dated", but the car just didnt accelerate like it should. Through most of the gears, the car felt like it was fighting with itself to accelerate. almost like it was misfiring or something. I am going to try the spray bottle on the coild pack when it gets dark tonight, but i am not really sure what else it could be. I am definitely going to do an oil change, fill up with 94 octane, and see if that makes any difference. I also may have found the reason i am only seeing 5psi with a 12psi pulley. The previous owner installed a turbosmart BOV on a c2 tune instead of a DV. I spoke to Chris at C2 and he said I could be losing boost through my BOV. I just ordered a forge DV so hopefully that will make a difference. I am sure there are going to be some adjustments to make to see the 11-12psi, but thats ok. I just want to figure out why the car seems to be fighting with itself to accelerate. When you cant get wheelspin in first gear, there is a problem.
> 
> obd2 vr6
> v2
> ...


******i just checked the BOV, and its actually a DV with lines recirculating between the MAF and Charger******


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

Anyone try to install a schimmel short runner intake on a s/c car yet? see any good power out of it after a proper tune?
I'm thinking about doing the SRI with water/meth and a full exhaust this summer then have it dyno tuned. I'm hoping to see some serious power, hopfully over 310whp. What do you guys think? I'm running the V9 right now at 12psi.


----------



## Praks (Nov 12, 2008)

blackgolf1990 said:


> Anyone try to install a schimmel short runner intake on a s/c car yet? see any good power out of it after a proper tune?
> I'm thinking about doing the SRI with water/meth and a full exhaust this summer then have it dyno tuned. I'm hoping to see some serious power, hopfully over 310whp. What do you guys think? I'm running the V9 right now at 12psi.


what pulley size do u have?


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

blackgolf1990 said:


> Anyone try to install a schimmel short runner intake on a s/c car yet? see any good power out of it after a proper tune?
> I'm thinking about doing the SRI with water/meth and a full exhaust this summer then have it dyno tuned. I'm hoping to see some serious power, hopfully over 310whp. What do you guys think? I'm running the V9 right now at 12psi.


with a good tune and full 3in exhaust i wouldnt see why you wouldnt be a little over 310whp. you have a tt downpipe and/or ported manis?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

blackgolf1990 said:


> Anyone try to install a schimmel short runner intake on a s/c car yet? see any good power out of it after a proper tune?
> I'm thinking about doing the SRI with water/meth and a full exhaust this summer then have it dyno tuned. I'm hoping to see some serious power, hopfully over 310whp. What do you guys think? I'm running the V9 right now at 12psi.


groupracer has one on his car. He made 313whp on 12psi.


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

I will port my exhaust manifold. Those are my summer plans. And next summer get cams and retune


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

Was looking to get a full 3" exhaust but I'll probably just do the tt downpipe with 3 inch high flow cat and 3" cat-back


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

i dont think youd get 300whp without some cams


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

For max output the following is the best route:
Schrick or DRC 268's (262's are not bad, but much more power can be made on the 268's)
Shimmel SRI
TT Down Pipe or S2 Header (No one has tried fitting an S2 on a MK4 yet) 
3" exhaust
Standalone


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I'd like to think I'm pretty close.
I should be installing staggered meth & the proper FPR within the next couple weeks, so I should be getting a little bump up in boost+fuel up top


----------



## LR-60 (Dec 18, 2008)

DeckManDubs said:


> For max output the following is the best route:
> Schrick or DRC 268's (262's are not bad, but much more power can be made on the 268's)
> Shimmel SRI
> TT Down Pipe or S2 Header (No one has tried fitting an S2 on a MK4 yet)
> ...


yes they have.....



JustinDerek said:


> and for the record they fit mk4 perfect!! just had mine installed..the sound of sweetness :thumbup::thumbup::laugh::laugh::heart:
> thanks again Evan!!


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

dmoe said:


> ******i just checked the BOV, and its actually a DV with lines recirculating between the MAF and Charger******


So, is your DV backwards? or ripped/blown
did u figure out why its only making 5#?
Look for boost leaks at the clamps & couplers, see if they are split underneath.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

LR-60 said:


> yes they have.....



Awesome :beer:


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

Has anyone used a Split Second FTC1 piggy back to control fueling beyond what a chip can manage? Seems like this could be a cheaper way to get around the limits of AMS tune than going full stand alone.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I think someone was running an AFC at one point.
I *may* have been turbo mike, but I'm not sure


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

CorradoMagic said:


> So, is your DV backwards? or ripped/blown
> did u figure out why its only making 5#?
> Look for boost leaks at the clamps & couplers, see if they are split underneath.


Going to go through it next friday to try and figure out the issue. Its time to change plugs and I may need a new coilpack too. Lots to do.


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

Installed my lc-1...I don't like seeing 17's


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

17:1? Wow that is not good. Is this light throttle or full load?


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

Full load at higher rpm. Idles right around 14.7 and drops to 12.5 getting into it but leans out. Kinda expected from the AMS tune with stock injectors


----------



## volkswagenpaul (Feb 13, 2003)

Another one is born! 
VF stage 2 w/ v9 charger


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

crazysccrmd said:


> Full load at higher rpm. Idles right around 14.7 and drops to 12.5 getting into it but leans out. Kinda expected from the AMS tune with stock injectors



Time for Lugtronics :laugh:


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Can anyone help me out with an intake? I'm thinking a 90* coupler and then down in front of the front wheel. If anyone could post some pics I would be grateful. Skimmed through this thread a bit but most pics are dead links now


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Banana.Phone said:


> Can anyone help me out with an intake? I'm thinking a 90* coupler and then down in front of the front wheel. If anyone could post some pics I would be grateful. Skimmed through this thread a bit but most pics are dead links now











Yeah I did a 90 to a straight with a DV bung in it then a step up coupler then my maf then filter. Maf might be about 6 inches too close to the blower. Over 6000rpm it breaks up a bit bit its really not too bad

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

So tight for room eh. It doesn't seem to be any easy solution. I'm not running fender liners so I'm a little paranoid.


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

Banana.Phone said:


> So tight for room eh. It doesn't seem to be any easy solution. I'm not running fender liners so I'm a little paranoid.


The silicone 90 is against the side of the bay but it doesn't kink it or anything. I don't have fender liners either. You'd really have to put your filter under water to mess anything up. A little spray isn't bad for it. Guys run water meth. Same ****.It will basically atomize before it gets anywhere near your motor.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

Ya pretty much what I was thinking. It doesn't get daily driven anyways. Thanks for the help!


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

euroguy666 said:


> The silicone 90 is against the side of the bay but it doesn't kink it or anything. I don't have fender liners either. You'd really have to put your filter under water to mess anything up. A little spray isn't bad for it. Guys run water meth. Same ****.It will basically atomize before it gets anywhere near your motor.
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk


but your MAF sensor will not like it


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Donlt remember who posted this, but you can try it like this:


----------



## VW_Sporting (Aug 27, 2003)

Is VF using same injectors for OBD1 and OBD2? Are they both 30# or 36#?


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

prometheus_ said:


> Donlt remember who posted this, but you can try it like this:


Funny I thought of something like this. Is there such thing as too long of an intake though?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Banana.Phone said:


> Funny I thought of something like this. Is there such thing as too long of an intake though?


Intake, I doubt it.
Distance of the MAF from motor, possibly.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

prometheus_ said:


> I think someone was running an AFC at one point.
> I *may* have been turbo mike, but I'm not sure


Yep, I ran one. The old c2 software ran very rich on 30# injectors. Grabbed an apexi afc, and leaned it out a bit. It did its job for how cheap it was. I know there's one for sale in a jdm site for $125 right now. If you want the guys email, lmk.

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

I have a flex tube running along the bottom of my rad support like that. The flex tubing allows me to keep it tucked along the curves of the subframe as tight as possible. I have my MAF place right near the bottom of the front mount, then have more flex tubing to a filter located on the d/s, just behind the bumper. It's not in the engine bay.
I have noticed that the response is somewhat less 'instant' now that the maf is further(vs right off charger, then filter). But it does run,drive/idle much better. 
Hopefully the A/F is still correct. I'm sure MAF distance from charger, or even filter will have various effects on the true A/F response. 
I'm overdue for another dyno w/ AF


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I made a little bracket to hold my intake, and installed the proper 4bar regulator (my car is early obd1), and I thought I was having a good day.

Coolant looked low, so I filled it up.

I pop hood tonight to show buddy the simple bracket thing, notice coolant is stupid low again.
So, then I start panicking, wondering if I have a ****ed motor etc..

Put the car on the hoist, and the whole passengers side is drenched in coolant, and low and behold, coolant is coming from the bloody pump 

So tldr, today my water pump decided to give me the big **** you :banghead:
Long weekend (easter), everyone closed, and car is off the road 

FORTUNATELY, I never ran out of coolant in the bubble, and I had noticed.
Also fortunate that pumps aren't really expensive, and way cheaper than doing a HG.


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

Still trying to figure out the boost issue i am having. Went to chris (banana phone) shop yesterday to take care of a few things. My bracket has two holes for idler pulleys, and there is only one idler pulley installed on the back side of the bracket closer to the firewall, but there is another hole thats tapped at the front of the bracket. You can tell there was an idler pulley installed at some point and not sure if it fell off or what, but there isnt one there now. Having a dual idler pulley setup would help out with belt slippage right? 

I have a vortech v2 setup 
2.87" pulley with a/c 

The belt installed is a 60" 

Not sure if i need a smaller belt or what, but when we reved the engine you could hear belt slippage. 

Tell me why i am only seeing 5psi, and if i should be ordering this idler pulley from summit racing? 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VOR-4FK116-021/Application/?prefilter=1


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

It doesn't matter how many idlers you have, as long as you have the correct belt length. 
The idlers are only there to help get more belt surface area onto the supercharger pulley. 

But, if you're looking for a replacement (or additional) pulley, you can use the "Upper Timing Belt Idler Roller" from a MK4 1.8t (Part # 058 109 244).


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

prometheus_ said:


> It doesn't matter how many idlers you have, as long as you have the correct belt length.
> The idlers are only there to help get more belt surface area onto the supercharger pulley.
> 
> But, if you're looking for a replacement (or additional) pulley, you can use the "Upper Timing Belt Idler Roller" from a MK4 1.8t (Part # 058 109 244).


 I wish I could know what size belt I need though. The tension bolt on the bracket is pretty tight and I wonder if I should order a shorter belt to be able to adjust that tension bolt and see if I can find more boost


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Get something to measure (like string)  
Have it setup for zero tension and measure that ****. 

Then all you have to do is order a belt that's a little bit longer. 
_IE: I measured 57.75" @ the least possible amount of tension, and ordered a 58-3/8" belt from NAPA_ 

Since you measured with zero tension, you'll have plenty of adjustment, and can tighten the adjusting bolt a whole lot. 
I ended up using a slightly longer adjustment bolt just so I could tighten it a bit more if I had to (I didn't).


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

*FV-QR*

The idler on the rear that is there is the 1.8T one. He's missing the front one. The belt tension is all the way because the other idler is missing. I'm pretty sure if the other idlers was there it would take up the rest of the tension. Doesn't hurt having more contact area too. I think it's worth the $45 dollar gamble. It's not like it's a _waste_ of money, right?! 









You can see there WAS an idler on the upper hole. No doubt in my mind explains the reason for the belt being all the way adjusted. I think the front idler would do more good than the rear idler anyways.


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

Thanks for posting that pic Chris. Its weird. As soon as I get to 4000rpm the acceleration breaks up. I don't hear the belt slipping but it feels like it starts to accelerate like a stock vr. Feeling the tension on the belt feels pretty tight but I have no clue how much play there should be. Are you guys running the idler pulley on the front or rear? Any dual idler setups? Benefits of dual vs single?


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

I have a dual idler setup, there is a bigger idler pulley (2 inch ish)where that hole is on my setup


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Also, with the Vortech idler, there are two bushings that will be needed in order for it to mound correctly. I may have an extra set.


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

I have seen some using the vortech idler pulley but have hear the bearings are not the best in them. That's why some guys are running tdi or 1.8t pulleys


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

The TDI or 1.8T pulley is for dual idler and isn't intended for the replacement of the Vortech pulley. Use of a 16V timing belt tensioner pulley would make sense to replace the Vortech piece, though I haven't had any issues with the Vortech piece and I have been running them for all of my builds.


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

I don't have very good pics but I actually cut out my rad support and used 3" pipe to support the radiator and moved the maf over by the battery, everything fits 100% like stock including the bumper headlights and ac dryer and lines. I highly suggest doing this if your going to daily your car and don't want to worry about water.


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

That's awesome! I would probably leave my MAF in the passenger side though. I'd like to see some pics with the rad support on. Looks good though, nice and safe location for the filter.


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

I had the maf down at the first bend on the passenger side and I had a lot of bucking surging issues, I think due to the 3.5" to 3" to 4" at the maf and 3" at the filter, now that It goes 3.5" to 3" all the way to the drivers side and 4" at the filter it runs 100% with no idle/ light throttle bucking. Those are the only pics I took I may pull the bumper back off soon to try and get my dual idler setup done and I'll try to take some more then.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Well, the further the MAF is from the TB, the more trouble you're going to get. 
I mean, mine isn't even that far, but anything supercharged is going to have the MAF at least triple the distance from oem placement. 

I'm considering to get a lightweight flywheel & pulleys just so I can have some super quick throttle response again like an N/A car  

In other news, I extended my intake piping to go all the way around the motor, so the intake is now where the battery used to be. Will post pics tomorrow


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

prometheus_ said:


> Well, the further the MAF is from the TB, the more trouble you're going to get.


 Why is that? You're still measuring the same amount amount of air displaced regardless of where in the intake stream it is. 

I do like the solid pipe setup you have there. My setup is the one posted before yours with the rubber ducting. It will hopefully be getting a redesign soon. A lot of stuff that I rushed in the fall needs to be cleaned up and sorted out properly.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

IIRC it may have something to do with turbulence (being near a bend) and/or the closer it being to the TB the quicker it can sense changes in the airflow. 

Although I could just be talking out of my ass on this matter


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Fixed my water pump, and changed up my intake  













 

And here are some ripping clips: 





 



 
Forgive the shaky cam & sloppy shifting, trying to focus on the road :sly: 
I'd just put it all back together, and like a fool didn't mark my adjuster, so I'm only hitting 10psi


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cjlz7fjSCGM&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Here is incar of the cabriolet on 13 psi, gears 2-5, filmed on a closed corse.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Nice! 
What's you're pulley setup like in order to hit 13psi?


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

2.87 thats been sandblasted and had grooves cut in it. And c2 dual idler


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

websaabn said:


> 2.87 thats been sandblasted and had grooves cut in it. And c2 dual idler


 What'd you use to cut the grooves, basic dremel?


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

prometheus_ said:


> What'd you use to cut the grooves, basic dremel?


 i used pneumatic grinder with a small cutting wheel, but a dremel will work fine


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

In that case, guess what I'm doing tomorrow :laugh:


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

Yea i cut slits roughly every 1/2 inch all the way around... Didnt care if its pretty, just has to work


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

websaabn said:


> Yea i cut slits roughly every 1/2 inch all the way around... Didnt care if its pretty, just has to work


 Sounds good to me  
Hopefully the weather holds out long enough for me to try it (assuming I still have some cutoff wheels). 

I've been burning through gas like nobodies business, fiddling and testing :facepalm:


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

Watching these vids just got me motivated again! :thumbup: 

I like your new intake setup "prometheus". 

Oh & that mk1vr6sc cabby is a beast. I just watched & downloaded the in-car camera vid you posted up a while back.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

BlackSwan said:


> Watching these vids just got me motivated again! :thumbup:
> 
> I like your new intake setup "prometheus".
> 
> Oh & that mk1vr6sc cabby is a beast. I just watched & downloaded the in-car camera vid you posted up a while back.


 Thanks, it needs more but i got to get the house done first.


----------



## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

websaabn said:


> Thanks, it needs more but i got to get the house done first.


 House is looking good. I can vouch for the cabby, it's a beast.


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

What fuel pump setup are u running on that cabrio at 13psi?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

dmoe said:


> What fuel pump setup are u running on that cabrio at 13psi?


 Probably stock VR pump w/ larger injectors.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

I cant remember what intank pump its for a GM, and a summit inline pump rated about that the same as the walbro 255 i had on it before... its a old C2 36lb setup.


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

^ Anymore vids of the cabby rippin it up?  

This thread needs more vids!!


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

I have some, but they are on the comp at home and i am in korea..


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vx2gJYlN3DE. 
I found one more just messing around from 40 stomp in second gear... I need to dyno it one of these days


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

websaabn said:


> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vx2gJYlN3DE.
> I found one more just messing around from 40 stomp in second gear... I need to dyno it one of these days


 that thing is awesome! lol :thumbup:


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

Has anyone used maestro 7 on their supercharged vr's?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

blackgolf1990 said:


> Has anyone used maestro 7 on their supercharged vr's?


afaik, they only have support for 24v when it comes to VRs.


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

Blah they really need to change that.


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

Is there any other company that's like it that supports 12v?


----------



## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

mk4vrjtta said:


> that thing is awesome! lol :thumbup:


Agreed, Its a fun little car. I am a turbo guy but I really like the power delivery this car has. It is crazy ride for sure. Nice smooth power delivery.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

blackgolf1990 said:


> Blah they really need to change that.


Tapp is not interested due to not being a large enough market. Lugtronics is the best bang for your buck at the moment.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

The latest design set with beefed up mounting and double tensioner bolts.


----------



## R36Dreams (Jun 14, 2006)

Hey guys. Looks like there's tons of great info in here and I have a lot of reading to do. 
I want to toss a quick question out there though before I end up getting something I may not need.
I've had my stg2 sitting in a box since last summer. Finally bought a house with a garage and have the time to throw it in my car. My question is that I thought I had seen that folks tap the pan for the oil return instead of the block as VF instructs you to do. Because of that, I have a friend sourcing a steel oil pan for me so it would be easier to drill. Do I need to do this? Or am I still actually tapping the block?


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

just tap the pan not the block. Manassas VA where at??? thats my stomping grounds:laugh:


----------



## R36Dreams (Jun 14, 2006)

Sold my townhouse off Liberia and 28. Just bought a nice big house off Signal Hill (Manassas Forge Drive) near the parkway.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

Yea i miss the dub scene there, its a lot smaller in the south. You going to Bugout?


----------



## R36Dreams (Jun 14, 2006)

Been going to at least one a year since I was a kid.


----------



## vdubb03 (Apr 4, 2010)

So I have a belt squeal issue. I have a vf kit and I replaced the belt and it still squeals. Basically when I turn my a/c on it will squeal or if iv been driving awhile it's hot sitting at a light at idle second fan kicks on then when I go it squeals.. Any ideas??? 


---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?umxdpu


----------



## KCISRViTG10 (Sep 8, 2010)

Hey guys. This is what I'm working with:

-Mark 4 12v VR6.
-VF Engineering kit with Vortech V9f Charger.
-Custom SRI manifold
-United re-mapped ecu

I purchased the set up from Dunkfan914 around december. I've been reading through the thread, as well as trying to search using key words. I have a question about mty throttle body. 

When You guys are relocating (for a SRI application) the throttle body, are you extending the coolant lines back to the TB?

Thanks for any help.

:thumbup::beer:


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Most people just loop the lines and leave the throttle body not hooked up.


----------



## KCISRViTG10 (Sep 8, 2010)

^Thanks for the reply!

So just connect the two lines and tuck them away. Plug the thottle body lines or just leave it open? 

:thumbup::beer:


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

You can just leave them open on the throttle body. I would personally cut the nipples off so it's nice a flush just for looks but anyway, you can't do that part wrong


----------



## KCISRViTG10 (Sep 8, 2010)

^Thanks man. One more question that just came to mind. What is everyone doing about the pcv valve (heater element/oil burner??) in the intake piping before the throttle body? 

Thanks again guys. 

:thumbup::beer:


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

^ 
run a breather tube/filter or catch can/breather from the VC.


----------



## KCISRViTG10 (Sep 8, 2010)

^ 

This is what I'm refering to (picture from VgRt6's thread DIY-Performing a compression test on a MKIV 12v VR6) 












Thanks guys. :thumbup::thumbup: 

:thumbup::beer:


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Forgot to take measure when I was at my shop. Can anyone tell me the OD of the intake on a V1 charger?


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

3.5"


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I'm also curious if anyone has tried the V5 blowers. 
They're *supposed* to be designed for smaller displacement motors like ours. 
The only person I know to have tried the thing was SuperDave back in the day, and they kept breaking :screwy:


----------



## Doxie Moxie (Mar 1, 2009)

Rhussjr ran them I believe.


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

I'm assuming a 3" coupler will work for me then? I'm on my phone and having a hard time seeing that. Well and I'm driving. 
Rodney has a v5 for sale. I'm sure he will chime in 

Thanks for posting that pic.


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

I meant 3.5" not 3


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

You'll have a hard time stretching a 3" coupler over that inlet  
Not because it's just too small, but because the work area you have to try to stretch that thing is tiny! 

I ordered a 3->3.5" and 2.75->3" coupler from siliconintakes.com


----------



## rhussjr (Aug 7, 2000)

Back in '99-'00, I ran a V5 with no issues. I even sold a kit or two with them in it, one of which was putting 308 hp to the wheels on a completely stock VR6. The V5 is virtually the same as a V2 but with an impeller tuned for use on 2.0-4.0 displacement engines. It has a more linear boost curve.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Hmmmm... 
Yea basically I hear it's what the V9 _should_ have been. 
I'm not looking to downgrade from the V1, but it's useful information nonetheless  

I imagine it'd be a bit easier to fit on the older chassis with space restrictions.


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

Thanks for posting that pic. I went to eurospot on Saturday and got a 3.5" 90* 2 3.5-4" for my MAF. I thought I had a charge pipe but I have no clue what he gave me. So now I need a 2.75-3" and I should be good. 

Got the motor started yesterday so at least I know the new motor actually runs haha


----------



## skidplate (May 4, 2004)

I just picked up a Z charger that's missing a pulley (the one on the charger itself). So if anyone has one or knows of one, please send them my way. :thumbup:


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Not the greatest photo but any constructive criticism on my intake? Where the "silver" is between the black, will it be ok to recirculate there?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Banana.Phone said:


> Not the greatest photo but any constructive criticism on my intake? Where the "silver" is between the black, will it be ok to recirculate there?


 y u no post picture?


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Cause I was running the car with the shop door shut apparently. :banghead:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

You have to recirculate _after_ the MAF but _before_ the blower. 
Doesn't matter where, just as long as it's somewhere between there  

When my car used to be set up like that, I had it recirculating right into the elbow. 

edit: you going to make it to spring fling?


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

*FV-QR*

As long as I make it back from SoWo hahah 
I didn't think it mattered where just had to be between. I'm getting SO close now. forgot to finish my weld on my pan for the return bung. Gotta drain the oil, take the pan off and redo it now. Such a ufcking piss off.


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

Banana.Phone said:


> As long as I make it back from SoWo hahah
> I didn't think it mattered where just had to be between. I'm getting SO close now. forgot to finish my weld on my pan for the return bung. Gotta drain the oil, take the pan off and redo it now. Such a ufcking piss off.


 Definitely getting there chris. I will stop by monday and see how things are going and if you need a hand with anything. I wont be in my gti, bt i am sure you will have your intake shyte done by then anyways.


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Just gotta make 2 flanges now for my DV. Should have the intake finished tonight. Got talking and forgot to finish the weld on the return line bung. Now I gotta drain the oil and re weld it. :banghead:


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

Who in here is going to SOWO??? I am 99% going but looks like i will be in my BT TDI not the cabriolet or the R.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Will be in Helen for SOWO Friday afternoon around 16:00.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Wish I were going, but no dice


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

I'm going 100%. 15hour drive but will be worth it. Not sure if I'm driving the gti or the A4


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

prometheus_ said:


>


 Really diggin your setup here! 

Can I ask what degree bends you used to build your maf/inlet pipe? 

Also is it 3" or 2.5"?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

It's all 3", and no bends at all. 
I happened to have some straight stainless exhaust pipe, so I just ordered a bunch of angled silicone


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?t=5667458
I'm selling my shaved bay Schimmel supercharged mk3... show my thread some love guys! 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Saw your car @ H20 last year, looked good


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

prometheus_ said:


> Saw your car @ H20 last year, looked good


 Thanks :thumbup:

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## euroguy666 (Apr 8, 2009)

So my car sold in less than a week... I like this thread so I'm gonna check back from time to time to see how things evolve. It was nice knowin ya! 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

A pic to keep the thread moving and interesting....


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

mmm shiney new parts :thumbup: 

edit: 
So these guys are building a SC'd VR with some toys. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5659089-Euro-Enginuity-MK3-Supercharged-VR6-Build-Page 

They are saying they'll get 20-25psi with a V1 on a 2.5 pulley. 
I've got no idea how they could manage to reach that amount of boost without encountering ****loads of slip.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

so lets all meet up at SOWO :thumbup: Ill be in this beast


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

prometheus_ said:


> mmm shiney new parts :thumbup:
> 
> edit:
> So these guys are building a SC'd VR with some toys.
> ...


 I saw this too and am curious to see how it all comes together.


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

cogged...:thumbup: 



prometheus_ said:


> mmm shiney new parts :thumbup:
> 
> edit:
> So these guys are building a SC'd VR with some toys.
> ...


----------



## KeyDub (Jul 11, 2004)

hey Man; 

Hate to be a killjoy; 

but you will see no where near 20-22psi. I just took my car back to stock from the setup you are trying to build. it was fun, but your better off saving the time as you will want more power: 

2.9 12V VR6 
forged pistons 
WRD stage 3 P/P Head 
Schrik 268 Cams 
Schrik VSR intake 
VM Cogged Pulley Setup 
60lb injectors 
Lugtronics 
most i saw was 17psi 
never did a dyno 
good luck, as i will be watching this build 

KeyDub


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

It's not MY build, it's some guys on the MK3 forum


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

T-Trim with 2.5 = 16psi area.


Been there done that. T-Trim is a very large heavy gear setup that will be very hard to transfer the power thru the belt. You hit a wall @ 14psi range with a 7 rib belt as it can no longer efficiently transfer the 70hp needed to operate the blower at anything more than that.

Highest boost I have seen was cogged T-Trim was 17psi.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

A little tip for everyone.

If you have no experience with superchargers and how they are assembled/dismantled. Do your self a favor and ask either myself or send it to a reputable re-builder. 

I have been seeing more chargers taken apart by their owners and lots of damage caused because of incorrect ways of taking them apart, it makes having them rebuilt cost much more money than usual due to the nature of how they are built.

Also, do not remove the serial tag. There is a lot of information that can help when you need to rebuild/upgrade your supercharger.

-Noah


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Here's a better shot of my setup, from an _actual_ camera


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

What are people doing with their evap canister? I put mine in my rain tray but realized I didn't have a vacuum line hooked up. Could that cause it to run crappy? I'm so close!! Hope to drive it this weekend!


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Banana.Phone said:


> What are people doing with their evap canister? I put mine in my rain tray but realized I didn't have a vacuum line hooked up. Could that cause it to run crappy? I'm so close!! Hope to drive it this weekend!


highly doubt it


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

It's idles fine but if you rev it up sometime it dies when the rpms come down. If I put my finger over the vacuum on the side of the throttle body it dies. That's where the canister vacuum line comes from right?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Banana.Phone said:


> It's idles fine but if you rev it up sometime it dies when the rpms come down. If I put my finger over the vacuum on the side of the throttle body it dies. That's where the canister vacuum line comes from right?


Yep, I use that line to control my divertor valve.
How low/high does it idle?


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

Ok so I think it just needed a good running. But now when you're just regularly driving it's kinda jerky when just feathering the gas. Kinda stumbles when leaving a light too. Any thoughts?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

MAF turbulence perhaps


----------



## napkin (Mar 8, 2008)

prometheus_ said:


> MAF turbulence perhaps



guess so! on all our kits we leave around 25inches space between the maf on surgeside to the chargers. otherwise the surge-airflow is to extreme and the maf is totaly confused 

best way to go is. supercharger - 25inches flex hose - maf - 50inches of flex hose - airfilter

...reminds me of going back to my customers mk5 now hehe...


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Dont think you really need 2ft between the blower & MAF.
My understanding is that you don't put the MAF right on the filter, and try not to have a bend immediately before the MAF (ie: 90 bend).

Although, this could be a little different for OBD2 mk3s.
My car is an og MAF from the Corrado, so it's really sensitive.

In other news, the weather warming up is really taking its toll on performance :thumbdown:
Need to get my meth installed asap. I'm HOPING I'll have time to notch my pulley on the weekend.

I also need to replace a driveshaft that has been torn (and finally worn) after 2 years of being dumped 
Starting to get pretty ****ty vibrations coming from it :thumbdown:


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

My filter is right on my maf housing. Could that be the issue? If so I'm effed


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

Banana.Phone said:


> My filter is right on my maf housing. Could that be the issue? If so I'm effed


Pretty sure that's where mine is Chris. Check it out today tho. Doubt that's the issue


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

My filter is directly on the maf, i bet your issue is the maf being too close to the charger inlet.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Have you got a boost gauge set up?
You could also have a small vacuum leak somewhere


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

Still have no clue whats going on with mine. Put the proper front idler pulley on, and still acting weird. 12psi pulley, and as i get up to around 3000rpms, its like there is an ignition issue. The acceleration almost plateaus around 3000rpms. boost gauge needle gets up to 5psi and shakes like crazy. Going to start checking things out tomorrow night to eliminate things. Problem started after the car came out of the body shop. Not sure if the filter is full of dust, or dirty MAF. Going to put a new set of plugs in, and try a different coil pack. Not sure what to do really.


----------



## 4G63Turbo (Dec 16, 2004)

sounds to me like you have a vacuum leak somewhere, 9the shaking boost gauge.... is a sign)


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Are you still running the V1 Adam?


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

4G63Turbo said:


> sounds to me like you have a vacuum leak somewhere, 9the shaking boost gauge.... is a sign)


The only time it shakes is when i max out on boost. 5psi apparently.....haha..needle moves smooth the rest of the time.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

why do you two gotta live so far, would be so much easier to help you out


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

prometheus_ said:


> why do you two gotta live so far, would be so much easier to help you out


You should make a trip down to chris's shop this week. We will both be there troubleshooting. Ill pay for your gas. Then we could have 3 boosted mk3 there


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Don't tempt me! 
When were you planning to do that, I gotta change out my driveshaft first


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

prometheus_ said:


> Don't tempt me!
> When were you planning to do that, I gotta change out my driveshaft first


We are going there tomorrow night but I am sure there will be a few more nights of it. Once I get the car running properly I have to tune in year water meth kit and get it fired up


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Heh, well I've got another "service call" Monday night 
If you guys will be there later in the week, lemme know. I think you both have my number :thumbup:


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

I've buys your gas I'll buy your dinner. But I'm telling you right now mister, I don't put out on the first date


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

Banana.Phone said:


> I've buys your gas I'll buy your dinner. But I'm telling you right now mister, I don't put out on the first date


Haaha. Not what I hear Chris. Just imagine. Three boosted vrs in the same place. One that work and two that don't. Haaha. Just come down Adrian. We need your brain.


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

We'll make it worth your while lol


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Well, Wednesday & Friday I'm free, so if you're gonna be tinkering then, I'll come by


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Works for me!


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

prometheus_ said:


> Well, Wednesday & Friday I'm free, so if you're gonna be tinkering then, I'll come by


Wed works for me


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Ok so cyl 1 on Dave's car. I'm starting to think it's running lean...just a hunch haha. Would it be a bad knock sensor?!


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

looks pretty lean, what plugs are you running and what are they gapped to?


----------



## dirtydeedss (Aug 27, 2008)

I am about to mount a fmic on my vr6 corrado with a vf v-9 kit. Am I able to loosen the big vband clamp on the charger housing and rotate it so the outlet on the charger will face foreward? Or is there more to it than that?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

dirtydeedss said:


> I am about to mount a fmic on my vr6 corrado with a vf v-9 kit. Am I able to loosen the big vband clamp on the charger housing and rotate it so the outlet on the charger will face foreward? Or is there more to it than that?


iirc you can clock it all the way around, yea


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

prometheus_ said:


> looks pretty lean, what plugs are you running and what are they gapped to?


those plugs are from the previous owner. I think they were around .26 and were the ngk bkr7e. Replaced the with the same gapped to .24


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

*FV-QR*

So I think I figured out my car's issue. Pretty sure it's the wiring to the MAF. was coming back from London to and my filter fell off and I ran it over. One more thing to add to my horrible day.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Banana.Phone said:


> So I think I figured out my car's issue. Pretty sure it's the wiring to the MAF. was coming back from London to and my filter fell off and I ran it over. One more thing to add to my horrible day.


:banghead:
hope you've got a spare :thumbdown:


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

*FV-QR*

So I plugged that vaccum line, car drives waaay better but has a "bouncy" idle now


----------



## dirtydeedss (Aug 27, 2008)

Thanks!:thumbup:


----------



## VWunion Chad (Dec 13, 2010)

Anyone have the AMS V1 kit and would be willing to help me figure a few things out?


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

VWunion Chad said:


> Anyone have the AMS V1 kit and would be willing to help me figure a few things out?


I have one, might be able to help.


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

So last night I went out and raced a supercharged v6 tiburon and lost. We did a 30 roll and a 60 roll and he won by like 2 car lengths. But then we did a 20 roll and I won.... I can't be losing to a tiburon. 
But on the bright side, I should have my water/meth setup working monday.


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

you were racing on a closed course right?


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

of course


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Me(green) Prometheus_(upper red) and DMOE(lower red)


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

Don't see that very often.


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

Can anyone share some insight?

Car kinda had a wonky idle. Sometimes it's high. Sometimes it bounces. My biggest issue is while driving normal and "feathering" the gas to maintain speed it's a little bit unresponsive for like an 1/8th throttle. 

V1 charger 
36# tune from c2
6puck sprung clutch(not sure if that's even relevant)
Stock Audi a4 diverter valve 

I leave for sowo(13.5hr drive) would like to work this out

Only thing that might change this also is the vacuum line on the throttle body is plugged. Not sure if that matters at all.


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

so i need a little help, i have a used stage 3 vfe kit, i need new injectors unsure of what to run, was thinking 440cc or is this too big?


----------



## napkin (Mar 8, 2008)

what boost are you running?

you can calc the CC´s of the injectors 1:1 in horsepower. 
so 440cc @ 4bar will be ok for nearly 440hp


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

its a stage 3 kit vfe says it will do 300 whp @ 10psi, so 300cc injectors? seems small, i will be running 4bar


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

300whp?
Not to be a negative nancy or anything, but I find that extremely unlikely from a vfe kit (or any standard V9 kit).
Many here will agree that VFE is pretty shady when it comes to VWs, and they like to stretch their advertising a fair bit.

300hp at the crank perhaps. After drivetrain loss, it'd be about 260-70whp.

edit: their own graph for stage2








looks like 250whp & 230lb-ft, compared to their advertised 280hp 250lb-ft for stage2

add maybe 10whp per psi (their stage3 is 2psi more)


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

haha doesnt surprize me im getting pretty upset with them they are really hard to deal with


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

250whp requires more than 10psi. On stock cams its more like 12psi. With 268 cams, 12psi and a good solid tune 300 is a lot closer, however it still is very difficult to go much over the 300 range as the ability of the belt to transfer drive torque is being overloaded at that point.


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

yea im just going off the info i got from the web page, anyways what size injectors should i be looking for? im getting a c2 tune for it


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

shazzam said:


> yea im just going off the info i got from the web page, anyways what size injectors should i be looking for? im getting a c2 tune for it



for over 6psi you need 30# or 36# injectors depending on the software. The 30# C2/UM file sucks the big fat one. If your running 8psi on GIAC, I suggest staying with that. The allowance of power and more boost with C2/UM is at a trade off in driveability and engine life. C2/UM runs way rich and will wash down the cylinder cross hatching. 

Only way to go is Lugtronics/other standalone.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

don't forget, it sounds like it's for a 24v Jetta not a 12v.


----------



## vdubb03 (Apr 4, 2010)

I had talked to united motorsports about my 24v stage2 vf kit and to put cams in he recommended 660 injectors 60#


---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?r1coaa


----------



## dirtydeedss (Aug 27, 2008)

I have been looking for pics of a v9 with the outlet rotated foreword to a fmic and have had no luck. If anyone has any please post up!


----------



## napkin (Mar 8, 2008)

ruf and me designed a new impeller wing for the rsc charger. it now pushes out 13psi. should be enough for 300hp on a vr6 engine. the main problem will be the cooling with a standard fmic. the pressure drop is to big so we only use liquid intercoolers for supercharged cars. maybe this will help the Vx chargers to more boost.

we tested it on an r32 mk4 with a 9,5:1 compression. it made 370hp. ill post the dyno later


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

DeckManDubs said:


> for over 6psi you need 30# or 36# injectors depending on the software. The 30# C2/UM file sucks the big fat one. If your running 8psi on GIAC, I suggest staying with that. The allowance of power and more boost with C2/UM is at a trade off in driveability and engine life. C2/UM runs way rich and will wash down the cylinder cross hatching.
> 
> Only way to go is Lugtronics/other standalone.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

Change of plans, we will be in the Cabriolet @ SOWO:laugh: if anyone wants to meet up PM me:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## napkin (Mar 8, 2008)

donno why you runs such big injectors. you can go with green g60 injectors (280cc) @ 4bar to get 270hp. maybe its the better fuel in germany? i run [email protected] on my v5 gt3071r setup with 1,5bar boost


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

Started my build if anyones interested. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ronicals-.-Rebuild-Thread-%96-The-Whole-Story


----------



## mk3alltheway (Feb 10, 2011)

> I have been looking for pics of a v9 with the outlet rotated foreword to a fmic and have had no luck. If anyone has any please post up!


X2


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

mk3alltheway said:


> X2


VWgeorge2 has a bunch in both his threads. look him up. ( his first thread has the V9/ his second the V2/1 So don't feel misled if you don't see a V9, His first one regarding his hybrid setup has it clocked downward.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

napkin said:


> donno why you runs such big injectors. you can go with green g60 injectors (280cc) @ 4bar to get 270hp. maybe its the better fuel in germany? i run [email protected] on my v5 gt3071r setup with 1,5bar boost


much better fuel in germany 
for the most part, the best you can regularly get in north america is 94 octane which is weak compared to the 100+ you can get in europe


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

It was good meeting you @ SOWO Banana.Phone:wave:


----------



## napkin (Mar 8, 2008)

hmm.. curious! in fact that you have to calc the boost on top of the fuel pressure. so when you run 4bar fuel pressure + 1bar boost... youre already at 5bar fuel pressure. cant imagine what stressy job its for the programmer to get a stable idle on such cars 

102octane?  we also got e85 gas stations now


----------



## mk3alltheway (Feb 10, 2011)

napkin said:


> hmm.. curious! in fact that you have to calc the boost on top of the fuel pressure. so when you run 4bar fuel pressure + 1bar boost... youre already at 5bar fuel pressure. cant imagine what stressy job its for the programmer to get a stable idle on such cars
> 
> 102octane?  we also got e85 gas stations now


Isnt that what the whole new fad is with the rising rate fpr? The fact that its linear and easier to tune for, yielding higher numbers..


----------



## napkin (Mar 8, 2008)

as long as the fpr is on the (under)-pressure line it will ever be the same  
so an original fpr will raise fuel pressure with rising boost.


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

websaabn said:


> It was good meeting you @ SOWO Banana.Phone:wave:


Was great meets you guys a well!!


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Rising rate FPR's = Junk. A bandaid fix that should be solved with standalone.


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

i think the wording is getting people all confused. A regular FPR will raise fuel pressure 1:1 for boost. What you want to stay away from is 2:1 4:1 12:1 etc. these are usually called FMUs.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Banana.Phone said:


> Was great meets you guys a well!!


No trouble on the way down?


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

dirtydeedss said:


> I have been looking for pics of a v9 with the outlet rotated foreword to a fmic and have had no luck. If anyone has any please post up!


if i ever get around to putting my car back together i will post up pics, atm the front of my car scattered around my garage, basement, and spare bedroom:laugh:


----------



## napkin (Mar 8, 2008)

bonesaw said:


> i think the wording is getting people all confused. A regular FPR will raise fuel pressure 1:1 for boost. What you want to stay away from is 2:1 4:1 12:1 etc. these are usually called FMUs.


correct  but in his opinion they are trash too 
if he wants a stable fp, just pull off the pressure line


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

napkin said:


> correct  but in his opinion they are trash too
> if he wants a stable fp, just pull off the pressure line





Rising rate FPR's was how EIP use to tune, increasing fuel pressure on stock or low flowing injectors until they flowed. IE to the fuel pressure levels of CIS cars. But that was perhaps before your time.


----------



## napkin (Mar 8, 2008)

you dont get me but its ok man  and i think i am 5-10 years older than you are 
every single fpr i know raises fuel with boost as long as its controlled by the underpressure line on your vacuum system


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

prometheus_ said:


> No trouble on the way down?


 MAF went half way down. Got a new one and still isn't running well


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Still don't know why you peeps need a 4" MAF. 
Did you order some of those flow straighteners? 










http://www.treadstoneperformance.co...yComb+MAF+Mass+Air+Meter+Airflow+Straightener


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

I dont understand the 4" MAF housing either. I dunno it a flow straightener will help or not. Gonna try it though.


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

The 4" housing is what the software is programmed for. If you put it in a stock housing it would max out thus causing inaccurate readings. 

So little update, my cars been down since december really sue to me moving to PA. I left it in NY till about a month or so ago. 
While driving back I felt alil down on power, didn't think to much of it, it was a long trip in the hot rain. 
Alittle further diag found that my improvised intake tube was actually sucking it self shut! 
Was wonding why I would die at 6k. Haha. 
ic: 








Fail 

Thought it was worth letting the community know since some people were picking up on the idea. 

Carry on!


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

Ah that sucks dude! Seemed like a great idea


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

It worked great for when it was cold out. Soon as it got above 60* it must have got soft enough to collapse.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Lol sucks about your intake problem  
Easy to get around that though, all you really need is 1 long piece of pipe and a couple short ones, paired with a couple silicone elbows  

As for the 4" MAF, I suppose you're running 36# injectors then. 
Most of our 12v cars won't get *over* 300whp, and the 30# tunes don't call for the 95mm MAF.


----------



## [email protected] (Jul 25, 2008)

I'm selling my V9 head unit with vr6 12v bracket for an mk4 also giac software stage 2 for $950 

hit me up for more info


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

i'm running the 30# c2 tune and it calls for a 4"maf.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

Is anyone here running a Cog setup, weather it be a verdict motorsports kit or a custom deal? 

I ask because I am having a company make me a custom cog crank pulley for my R32 to be used with my V2/build. Im curious how long belts last and where you might be getting said belts if not a verdict kit? 

Thanks 

-Ellery


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

I know it's been discussed but I can't find it. What are people's thoughts on headers. I keep getting exhaust leaks so I might throw a cheap header on. Am I wasting my time?


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

not if u have a High Flow Cat or cat less


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

Properly ported exhaust manifold and down pipe will out flow headers. Maybe look into TT down pipe


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

bonesaw said:


> Properly ported exhaust manifold and down pipe will out flow headers. Maybe look into TT down pipe


 well is this for a 24 or a 12 v? not quite sure the may difference as far as the manifold design but I know that techtonics downpipes mated to a Stock Manifold on the 24v (ported as mentioned is a good combo. I guess ill STF up haha


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

Thanks for the replies everyone. I thought about the TT diwnpipes. Might look into that an gutting my cat


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

Banana.Phone said:


> Thanks for the replies everyone. I thought about the TT diwnpipes. Might look into that an gutting my cat


 If u still care about emissions, a HFC works very nice as well. not sure of your entire ext setup but thats something to look into 

Will be honest i don't know sheet about 12 v's


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

We have to have our cars tested every 2 years here so I'll probably just bolt in a gutted cat. Stupid emissions testing.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

The only headers proven to make power are the EStyles header, which you can now buy through schimmel @ spturbo.com 

Otherwise, gasket matching/hogging out the stock exhaust manifolds is the only other thing proven to make anything.


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

Banana.Phone said:


> I dont understand the 4" MAF housing either. I dunno it a flow straightener will help or not. Gonna try it though.


 4" MAF's are used to slow the velocity of the air. As the higher velocity air exits the smaller piping, say 3" diameter, to the 4" pipe, the velocity of the air slows, but still passing the same relative volume. If the speed of the air is to high, the MAF sensor can overload causing false readings.


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

So, this my set up. V2, Si trim, cogged, Schimmel short runner intake, 4 bar, TT down pipe, 4"MAF 42# injectors, custom UM 42# tune, etc, etc. Running 11 PSI. Haven't dynode this yet (soon,very soon), but when I had a V9 setup, I dynoed 313 whp. If any one wants any further details, PM me.... 

 

Thanks Phil, Noah!! 
Thanks Tom and Jeff....


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

groupracer said:


> 4" MAF's are used to slow the velocity of the air. As the higher velocity air exits the smaller piping, say 3" diameter, to the 4" pipe, the velocity of the air slows, but still passing the same relative volume. If the speed of the air is to high, the MAF sensor can overload causing false readings.


 Do you think I'm getting turbulence?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I wouldn't be suprised at all if you're getting turbulence. 
You've got maybe 1.5ft of intake before the supercharger. 
In that space you've got your cone, some pipe, MAF, then elbow into the blower. 

Your recirculation line also dumps directly into the top of your elbow, which *could* be an issue, but is doubtful. 


Also, put the vr on the hoist today to check out where my vibration was coming from. 
Thought it was from driveaxle because the boot has been torn for a while, but instead found the inner sidewall (at part of the tread) of my drivers-side tire bulging slightly :banghead: 

Needed new tires anyways i guess. 

*@groupracer* 
I'm going to estimate... 340whp  
Unless you've got something else youre not mentioning (ie: cams)


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

prometheus_ said:


> I wouldn't be suprised at all if you're getting turbulence.
> You've got maybe 1.5ft of intake before the supercharger.
> In that space you've got your cone, some pipe, MAF, then elbow into the blower.
> 
> ...


 Filter/MAF/short tube/elbow/charger lol 
I think I need to change something


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

It seems that most MAF's need to be about 18" or so, from the charger inlet. Also, the BOV return needs to be some distance from the MAF has well, because at slow speeds the recurculated air can and does cause false readings at slow speeds (relatively speaking here). As far as a straighter, I don't think they really do anything, but I don't think they would hurt. Remember that commercial they had about the "TURBONATOR" that would cause turbulence to mix the fuel better? That did absolutely nothing. What needs to be done is to ensure and prevent any back flow into the MAF that may be caused by recalculated air. Thats most likely your issue 

@ prometheus, Cams too, 262's...


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

i stand by my initial estimate  
might be a little high though


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

I think I need to redesign my intake. Hmmm


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

So I changed my belt out for a gatorback, and I've no longer got the silly amounts of slippage I had before. I'm still only making 11psi, but it's coming in smoothly rather than a jumpy. 
It used to get to about 7 then jump to 11 when I was out of the powerband, but now it builds nicely and definitely feels a bit stronger down low  

@banana & dmoe, 
You'll be interested to know, I called up vortech today to find out what trim level my V1 is. 
Guy tells me it's an A-Trim or S-Trim and probably over a decade old :laugh: 

My unit matches an A-Trims Carb EO# (from the plaque), but an A-Trim has different blades than what I've got, so chances are mine was rebuilt at some point with S-Trim internals :thumbup:


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

Here are some updated pics of my car and the intake setup to help people 








































Been driving it daily off and on for a few months and it's running flawlessly!


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

ok, so i have a question. I am a newb at FI when it comes to building a car. So I'm in the middle of my V2 build and I am wondering.. where can i rout the blower oil Inlet hose from the motor ? This is on an R32. Ive been looking at pictures of various builds and oil lines aren't really talked about much from what i can tell. 

Any suggestions are appreciated


----------



## spitfire481 (Mar 21, 2007)

BOUDAH said:


> ok, so i have a question. I am a newb at FI when it comes to building a car. So I'm in the middle of my V2 build and I am wondering.. where can i rout the blower oil Inlet hose from the motor ? This is on an R32. Ive been looking at pictures of various builds and oil lines aren't really talked about much from what i can tell.
> 
> Any suggestions are appreciated


 talking about the supercharger oil feed line correct? 42 draft designs oil pressure adapter. works great on the 24v motors. gives you an an extra port for charger/turbo feed, and one for an aftermarket oil pressure gauge sending unit


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

spitfire481 said:


> talking about the supercharger oil feed line correct? 42 draft designs oil pressure adapter. works great on the 24v motors. gives you an an extra port for charger/turbo feed, and one for an aftermarket oil pressure gauge sending unit


 Yes, thanks, will check that out!


----------



## Yohahn (Jun 2, 2012)

*Feeler for power ?*

I have vr 12v 
262 cams 
Springs 
Retainers 
Tt bearings 
Custom made pistons, rods, rings 
Stock compress 
V2 
United s/w race file 
Headers to brullen via 2.5 no cat 
I/c (or not looking for advise) 
No ac but ps still in 
Grn top injectors 
Stock fuel reg 
Think that's it, I'm currently finishing up build as we speak


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

So this is going to be my setup, Once completed 

V2 w/ 928 MS Impeller and Ceramic Bearings 
Custom Cog blower and crank pulley 
Schrick 272/264 Camshafts 
C2 9-1 Headspacer 
United Motorsport STG 2 E85 Flex Fuel Tune 
Siemens 870 cc Injectors 
4" Maf 
HPA Integrated Liquid cooled air to water intercooler 
Supersprint Headers mated to 2 HFC's to a 3.5 custom exhaust 

iffy if i want to do water/meth but I'm installing a port regardless 
still unsure of a clutch 

Target HP Goal w/0 E85 400ish , Wish E85, 450 Wheel HP 

The car is a 2004 R32


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

cjm722 said:


> Here are some updated pics of my car and the intake setup to help people
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
This is amazing!


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Fairly certain my headgasket is quite pooched now  
I had some blowby before I supercharged the car last year, but I wasn't burning coolant/oil at a noticeable rate. 

However, NOW I can see the crankcase fumes coming out of my hood :banghead: 
I'm HOPING it's the headgasket and not piston rings, a burnt valve, or warped head. 
I don't really put out any telltale signs from the exhaust, so there's hope. 

Either way, :banghead: 
I need to get hired asap


----------



## mushroom_curry (Apr 21, 2004)

prometheus_ said:


> I need to get hired asap


Get rich - leave Ontario.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

That's what people keep telling me.
I'll be damned if I have to go through college for a 3rd time.


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

prometheus_ said:


> Fairly certain my headgasket is quite pooched now
> I had some blowby before I supercharged the car last year, but I wasn't burning coolant/oil at a noticeable rate.
> 
> However, NOW I can see the crankcase fumes coming out of my hood :banghead:
> ...


Have you done a compression test yet? Chances are if you're running C2 or United it likely finished off the rings. Look for scouring from wash down on the cylinder walls.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Yes, it's on one of the original C2 dizzy chips & no, I haven't done a compression test yet.
The car runs fine and doesn't misfire or anything, and idle vacuum is a strong 22. Hell, it barely puts out any smoke at any point when booting it around, so I'm hoping the rings are fine :facepalm:

Chances are nothing has changed since i noticed the blowby all that time ago, and the car is simply *weaker* because the local temps are getting a bit hot.


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

Adrian. Did u get the water\meth hooked up yet?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

dmoe said:


> Adrian. Did u get the water\meth hooked up yet?


Nope, I have to see whats up before I even bother :thumbdown:
If it ends up being bad compression in cylinder or two, I'm going order one of those phenolic spacers, put in a mk4 iat, AND put the meth in.


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

went through the install guide last night, how important is it to move the little side mount cooler on a mk4? i kinda dont wanna mess with it if i dont have to..:beer:


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

shazzam said:


> went through the install guide last night, how important is it to move the little side mount cooler on a mk4? i kinda dont wanna mess with it if i dont have to..:beer:


Your V9 intake won't Fit unless you relocate the AUX Radiator, is this what yoga re referring to?


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

Whats up guys. Finally got my car running good again. Stupid plugged cat. Well its gutted now so ne need to worry about it getting plugged again. I have an AEM uego wideband and the a/f readings are off the chart. I didnt know if i needed to recalibrate it, so i searched online and i guess its supposed to recalibrate itself everytime you start the car. At cruising speeds 100km/h the readings are over 18. If i get on the throttle the readings go down. Anyone have any ideas whats going on here? The car is running great. just wondering whats going on with the wideband readings


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

welp, since my car is quite likely to be undergoing a heart transplant, here is the latest clip of it 
still haven't got around to doing a compression test, but tons of blowby suggests rings, and to top it all off I'm currently getting a constant misfire under any load whatsoever.






*update:*
compression test came back all ****ty.
cylinders 1/2/4/6 came back minty, but 3/5 came back around 95 :banghead:

time to buy another motor, since itll probably be cheaper than rebuilding :thumbdown:


----------



## holladayego (Sep 29, 2011)

I've got a stage two VF supercharger kit on my vr6 and I just put a 2.87 pully on my v3 super charger unit and I'm only seeing 5 psi boost at about 5000 rpm and at that point it feels like I'm running out of fuel, the hesitates and the car falls on its face, so I shift and it takes off again. Before when I had a larger pully on the charger I was seeing only 3psi of boost, and I'd have this issue at various times in the power range if I didn't warm the car up for like 8-10 min before I drove it. So I thought my fuel pump was going bad so I replaced that and now it only happens at 5k. So now I'm wondering if it could be my diverter valve could be opening before I want it to??? I feel like I should atleast see 8-10psi but I'm new to FI. Any help with what I should do or anyone ever know of this problem would really help. I'm also running the red Bosch 30 lb injectors and NGK ridium BKR6E1X spark plugs and a 4.0 BAR FPR.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

prometheus_ said:


> welp, since my car is quite likely to be undergoing a heart transplant, here is the latest clip of it
> still haven't got around to doing a compression test, but tons of blowby suggests rings, and to top it all off I'm currently getting a constant misfire under any load whatsoever.
> 
> 
> ...


 Sorry to hear  

Lugtronics time :laugh:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Well after nearly a year of unemployment I just landed a new job, so standalone is back in the cards after I take care of some things  

In the meantime, I have to drive the vr out of boost and hope it doesn't kill itself :thumbdown: 

edit; solved the misfire btw. 
unplugged all relevant plugs/fuses/sensors, which I then cleaned and reinstalled. 
runs fine now, albeit with **** compression


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

I have a motor for you Adrian. I don't have anyway of delivering though


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

prometheus_ said:


> Well after nearly a year of unemployment I just landed a new job, so standalone is back in the cards after I take care of some things
> 
> In the meantime, I have to drive the vr out of boost and hope it doesn't kill itself :thumbdown:
> 
> ...


 
Congrats on the new job :thumbup:


----------



## big_vw_ash (Jun 13, 2012)

hey guys just signed up as you lot seem to know you're stuff about supercharged vr6's. 
I've brought a mk3 golf vr6 running a v9 charger (with 6psi pulley so I've been told) and bosch red top injectors, so stage 2 I'm guessing. its a great car to drive but it has 1 problem! every time i start the car from cold it runs really rich on fuel but as soon as its warm the car runs perfect? 

any ideas guys?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

*@holladayego* 
My first guess would be to check your plug gap. 
I'm not sure about what tune you've got, but most coilpack cars running sub-10psi of boost call for a 3bar FPR, not 4. 

Also, as DMoe recently experienced, check your exhaust/cat (if applicable). 
If it's clogged, it's going to run like ass. 


*@big_vw_ash* 
Could be a couple of things, but it would really help to know what year your car is. 
For an OBD1 car, it could be your ISV sticking. 
For any car, it could be a small vacuum leak, coolant temp sensor, or O2 sensor. 

Scan it and see if it gives back any codes. 
Bad O2 is unlikely, but a small vacuum leak, sticking ISV, or bad coolant temp sensor is quite possible. Fortunately, those are all cheap parts.. except for O2 

My money is on the coolant temp sensor.


----------



## holladayego (Sep 29, 2011)

Yeah I'm running a GIAC tune that I'm ready to throw in the trash. I'm running an un gap able plug but I'm going to be replacing them this weekend, as for the cat goes I had it removed.


----------



## big_vw_ash (Jun 13, 2012)

@prometheus. 

Sorry ye forgot to say its an OBD2. I've also noticed it has a 4bar fpr insted of a 3bar, could this be a problem?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Ehhh, possibly. 
If you can borrow someones 3bar to compare, do that. 
Scan it anyways, because if it's the temp sensor giving a bad signal it'll throw a code.


----------



## big_vw_ash (Jun 13, 2012)

prometheus_ said:


> Ehhh, possibly.
> If you can borrow someones 3bar to compare, do that.
> Scan it anyways, because if it's the temp sensor giving a bad signal it'll throw a code.


 Ok I'll give it a go and update on the results 

Cheers


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

big_vw_ash said:


> hey guys just signed up as you lot seem to know you're stuff about supercharged vr6's.
> I've brought a mk3 golf vr6 running a v9 charger (with 6psi pulley so I've been told) and bosch red top injectors, so stage 2 I'm guessing. its a great car to drive but it has 1 problem! every time i start the car from cold it runs really rich on fuel but as soon as its warm the car runs perfect?
> 
> any ideas guys?


 Did the MAF clamp make its way onto the car? 

Are you positive the car is running perfectly when it gets out of cold start? 

I wouldn't say its software related to start. Sounds much more sensor related then anything.


----------



## big_vw_ash (Jun 13, 2012)

MeCarTay said:


> Did the MAF clamp make its way onto the car?
> 
> Are you positive the car is running perfectly when it gets out of cold start?
> 
> I wouldn't say its software related to start. Sounds much more sensor related then anything.


 I'm 90% sure its running right when warm. The car is running a Maf if that's what u mean? 
I'm thinking of relocating the air filter and Maf to the battery side as I don't think its in the best of places atm. I'll post some pics of the bay later so you can see the set up


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

big_vw_ash said:


> I'm 90% sure its running right when warm. The car is running a Maf if that's what u mean?
> I'm thinking of relocating the air filter and Maf to the battery side as I don't think its in the best of places atm. I'll post some pics of the bay later so you can see the set up


 

MAF clamp reduces the voltage on the MAF for the software to properly operate. It prevents the MAF from maxing out and the ECU from going crazy. 

As for the cold start. A faulty ISV can cause issues with cold start as well as loss of boost as they are not designed for positive pressure. You can remove it, however the cold start is a bit rough when it is below 60 deg F. I found with a new coolant temp sensor, it improved greatly. Believe it is the blue one IIRC.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

dis bitch


----------



## big_vw_ash (Jun 13, 2012)

prometheus_ said:


> dis bitch


 I've brought a new one so I'll fit it this morning when I get a couple mins and fingers crossed its works


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

can some one help me figure out how to feed my charger? i know it comes from the threaded plug in the filter housing, but i cant seem to find a metric barbed fitting or a metric to npt fitting.:banghead::banghead: 
is it feasable to retap that hole to npt? any help would be great:beer:


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

you need an M10x1 to -3 or -4 AN line. 1/8NPT will work but i wouldnt do it. Then get whatever fitting is needed on blower and stainless line. Any speed shop or jegs or summit will have what is needed.


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

bonesaw said:


> you need an M10x1 to -3 or -4 AN line. 1/8NPT will work but i wouldnt do it. Then get whatever fitting is needed on blower and stainless line. Any speed shop or jegs or summit will have what is needed.


 VF wants to run a 1/4" rubber braided line:sly: idk why but thats what they sold me with no ends:banghead: 
i will give this a try thanks! 
:beer::beer:


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

What's up guys. Gonna tune in my snow performance water meth kit this weeked. Just wondering what "start" and "finish" psi settings work well for this. 

I am a v2 with 12psi


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I'd personally have it coming in between 2-5psi. 
If you've got correctly sized nozzles you can have it come in and set the end amount @ 0, so it'll ramp up to full duty. If you find the car bogs when you do that, then you can dial it down OR find out why you bought the wrong sized nozzles  
Sadly, you need to know what kind of HP you're making (whp+~13%) to determine what size nozzles you actually need. 

If you think the nozzles you got are too big, start @ 5psi and finish at (or close to) the maximum you can set (probably 25), that way the nozzles won't get near full duty. 
The size I currently own are too big so I was going to be doing that, but since I'm working again, I'll be ordering new ones. 

~4.38 gph should be what you're looking for (12psi, 2.8l, 6900rpm, ~300whp) 


Lemme know how it goes! 
I start my new job on Sunday and will be dumping money into the GLX once again. 
Order of goodies is probably gonna go something like... 

- Motor/Phenolic spacer/1.8t iat/meth (all at once) 
- new windshield :thumbdown: 
- vinyl or diff


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

prometheus_ said:


> I'd personally have it coming in between 2-5psi.
> If you've got correctly sized nozzles you can have it come in and set the end amount @ 0, so it'll ramp up to full duty. If you find the car bogs when you do that, then you can dial it down OR find out why you bought the wrong sized nozzles
> Sadly, you need to know what kind of HP you're making (whp+~13%) to determine what size nozzles you actually need.
> 
> ...


 I would stay away from the 1.8t IAT sensor even with standalone. Many cases of detonation issues from this with boost.


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

DeckManDubs said:


> I would stay away from the 1.8t IAT sensor even with standalone. Many cases of detonation issues from this with boost.


 Interesting data. I always recommend the 1.8t air temp sensor because it gives accurate data and is not prone to heat soak.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Something to keep in mind for sure. 
I'm more concerned that because I want to put it in the OEM spot, I would be stuck with it  
Would be a waste of a perfectly good gutted manifold >


----------



## whiterabbit90 (Jul 19, 2004)

Ok I just finished a stage 2(VF) setup on a friends 24v. The car has a GIAC :banghead: tune and it seems like its lacking in power the car has good vac and is pushing 5psi. Is this the normal amount for a stage2? All charge pipes are connected and the DV's are good.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

i believe it's suppose to be at 8psi at redline for the stage 2. the car most likely has some belt slip. try to retighten and put some belt dressing on it :thumbup:


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

bonesaw said:


> you need an M10x1 to -3 or -4 AN line. 1/8NPT will work but i wouldnt do it. Then get whatever fitting is needed on blower and stainless line. Any speed shop or jegs or summit will have what is needed.


 so i ordered -3 an adaptor and oil line, just figured out the charger has a -4an adaptor on it. would it be dangerous to change the one on the charger to a -3an? just worried that it wouldnt get enough oil. what to you guys think?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

I always ran a 4an feed on my v1. Never an issues.


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

shazzam said:


> so i ordered -3 an adaptor and oil line, just figured out the charger has a -4an adaptor on it. would it be dangerous to change the one on the charger to a -3an? just worried that it wouldnt get enough oil. what to you guys think?


 I would stay above -3AN


----------



## [email protected] (Jul 25, 2008)

Vortech V1 Supercharger for sale. Currently 0 Miles after rebuild. 
The supercharger was rebuilt at Supercharger rebuilds with a 59k rpm bearing kit $450. 
No shaft play at all super tight. Boost safe 21-26 psi 
Comes with brand new Return and Feed fittings $50 From Verdict Motorsports 
You will need pulley and bracket for whatever car your going to be putting this in. 
PART # 03943 
CARB # D-213-8 


HIT ME UP 4083969101


----------



## [email protected] (Jul 25, 2008)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/18091167412...LX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649#ht_500wt_1287


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)

Unless your image is reversed, it isn't going to work on a VR6.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Rheinland Technik said:


> Unless your image is reversed, it isn't going to work on a VR6.


its not


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

That will work with a 24v but not a 12v. If u plan to run inter cooler you'll have to clock the volute down


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Looking for a V2 output shaft, anyone have one or know of who might? Or anyone have a blown v2 they're looking to scrap? 
Thanks

And yes I know superchargerrebuilds has them for $325, I'm awaiting an email back :beer:


----------



## vdubb03 (Apr 4, 2010)

whiterabbit90 said:


> Ok I just finished a stage 2(VF) setup on a friends 24v. The car has a GIAC :banghead: tune and it seems like its lacking in power the car has good vac and is pushing 5psi. Is this the normal amount for a stage2? All charge pipes are connected and the DV's are good.


I have stage 2 vf kit on 24v I just put c2 software in with 660cc injectors big difference and I'm only doing 5-6psi


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

Does anyone know what size pulley I can run on a v9 mk3 and use a stock belt


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

the stock supercharger belt?
probably any pulley, but you'd get tons of slippage


----------



## will_t (Mar 12, 2009)

i've looked through the majority of the thread and haven't found much info on prochargers. seems like most everyone is running vortech models. anyone ever had any experience with a procharger on an obd2 mk3 VR? 

the reason i ask is because i'm picking up a p600b procharger setup within the next week. i've got a few tweaks i'm going to make to the setup before it goes on, but i wouldn't mind a little insight. 

p600b procharger
8lb. pulley (i believe) 
42# injectors (i know it's overkill, but it's what i'm working with) 
4" MAF housing
not sure which software it's coming with yet

which belt manufacturers have you guys had good luck with? i know i wont be making excessive amounts of hp, but i want to eliminate belt slip as much as possible. 

which diverter valves are you guys running? just looking for some ideas, really. i know they all generally work the same, just curious if there are any you've ran into that are problematic. 

as for fueling, any of you guys running E85? i know they'd have to be ran on standalone with E85, but i'm definitely intrigued by the idea. 

i'm sure i'll have more questions as it progresses. just trying to learn up before i make any decisions on parts. :beer:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

we run vortechs because those are the brackets we have available.
i know at least one person had a mk2 vr with a procharger one it, but they had a custom bracket for it.

i think most people here are running either a gatorback or dayco belt.

An oem diverter valve from the mk1 audi tt is what i use (710N), as it's capable of holding more boost than we can produce. Some people have a mechanical DV instead, but you need to make sure it's closed at idle. If you're running standalone you *could* run a BOV instead, but there's really no point.


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

Hey guys, I was just cleaning my MAF sensor which I do pretty often cause it gets wet from rain. But this time I didn't drive in the rain at all... It was oil. I use a k&n air intake that sits right on the MAF... I thought it was just the oil from the k&n getting my MAF sensor dirty but I think there was way too much oil there to be the intake.
I just put a new air filter on my car and it deff is collecting oil in it... Is it normal for the s/c to leak a small amount of oil??? Please say it is (I don't think it is). It's pissing me off cause about every 2 weeks I have to clean the damn MAF sensor due to it getting dirty.
What's a normal MAF reading??? It's currently reading 3-3.25 g/s. 


My setup is stage 3 vf v9 blower on a 12v VR. Thanks for the input guys!


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

would u say it would be a bad thing to go catless. what does the VR need for backpressure since its not a turbo


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

blackgolf1990 said:


> Hey guys, I was just cleaning my MAF sensor which I do pretty often cause it gets wet from rain. But this time I didn't drive in the rain at all... It was oil. I use a k&n air intake that sits right on the MAF... I thought it was just the oil from the k&n getting my MAF sensor dirty but I think there was way too much oil there to be the intake.
> I just put a new air filter on my car and it deff is collecting oil in it... Is it normal for the s/c to leak a small amount of oil??? Please say it is (I don't think it is). It's pissing me off cause about every 2 weeks I have to clean the damn MAF sensor due to it getting dirty.
> What's a normal MAF reading??? It's currently reading 3-3.25 g/s.
> 
> ...



The V9 has a pressurized case. when pressure builds and exceeds the limits of the seals, oil is pushed past them and leakes down the intake. The answer is NO, this is not suppsoed to happen, but u may be in need of a rebuild with new seals. 


Also, if you have your PCV venting into the intake this is problem number 2. Re route the PCV to a catch can or run it atmospheric


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

Thats what I was afraid of, I might just remove the whole kit and return it to stock :banghead: anyone want to buy a v-9 kit? 
Also, If I were to do that, would I need a new ECU since mine is flashed to support the charger? It has the original GIAC chip


----------



## L. Fopps (Oct 17, 2006)

how much you want for the kit?


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

blackgolf1990 said:


> Thats what I was afraid of, I might just remove the whole kit and return it to stock :banghead: anyone want to buy a v-9 kit?
> Also, If I were to do that, would I need a new ECU since mine is flashed to support the charger? It has the original GIAC chip


Why the hell would u do that. its only 350 for a rebuild, parts and labor. Scott at Supercharger rebuilds is a stand up guy. this includes the bearings and seals IIRC and labor


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Yea dude, unless you're really unhappy with it, it's super cheap to get it rebuilt.
even cheaper if you can do it yourself :thumbup:


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

It's $450 for the standard rebuild (59K RPM) or $600 for the ceramic bearings (62K RPM) rebuild. 

I think you're better off rebuilding also but to each their own.

EDIT: If you get the ceramic kit with o ring you can do it yourself for $375. Not bad if you have the tools.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

i stand corrected. 450. still better than 2k for a new blower haha.


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

Damnnnn thanks a ton guys! I was assuming it would cost thousands for a rebuild lol. Is there by any chance a DIY for the rebuild? I'm a huge do it yourself guy but I'm learning as I go. I deff won't return to stock, just thought it was cheaper. 
What's the advantage of the higher rpm bearings exactly?


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

The only thing I'm really unhappy about is the damn MAF sensor gets dirty all the time. Thought it was cause I was sucking up water but its the supercharger.
Anyways, cheers:beer:


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

blackgolf1990 said:


> The only thing I'm really unhappy about is the damn MAF sensor gets dirty all the time. Thought it was cause I was sucking up water but its the supercharger.
> Anyways, cheers:beer:



Also, as i said before, if the PCV vent to the intake , then that is also wants dripping oil.. check this first. if it is vented, re route it from the head to a catch can or something.


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

I don't believe the PCV is venting into my intake. It goes Supercharger to plastic tube that branches off to 2 different things. 1 side goes to my MAF to air intake and the other goes to my bypass valve which then leads to my intercooler. I don't even know where my PCV is...


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

This is the correct belt for the charger right? 6-rib
http://www.superchargerrebuild.com/?page_id=8


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

Finally got off my ass and fixed the wife's cabriolet since it broke right after SOWO... Had the power wire for VSS short out it kept killing the ecu power.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

blackgolf1990 said:


> This is the correct belt for the charger right? 6-rib
> http://www.superchargerrebuild.com/?page_id=8


yes, but i would call Todd and ask him for a gatorback belt. Bot the Orig VF belts. the gatorback is stiffer IIRC.


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

Todd? is the gatorback double ribbed?


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

Todo is the dude at supercharger rebuilds


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

Ah ok thanks. I just took the supercharger out today and cleaned it (damn belt dressing). I'm going to call tomorrow if they are open or just ship it out tomorrow.
Cheers :beer:


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

Hey Boudah,
I think my PCV is venting to the intake... here are some pictures. Let me know if this is what you mean.
This is my oil catch can








It vents from here....








To here, which connects to my intake piping. I did find a lot of oil in that hose.








If this is what you meant, then how would re route it? Is there any way to tell which is leaking oil besides re routing and installing the V-9 back in? I really hope I just need to re route.
Here are some pics of the Supercharger, there is no play in it at all.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

The PCV is the line that is NORMALLY vented from the crank case, the Valve cover on the left side if looking t it or the right side of the motor. to the left if looking at it of the intake manifold. to your Stock INTAKE on a 24V or 12 V VR6 MK4. idk bout mk3. 


Ill find a pic. basically on the VF kit, the line goes from the Valve cover to the Elbow on the Plastic Supercharger Intake Tube that the Maf is connected to. its the uppermost elbow above the Diverter inlet to the tube.

That need to route to a catch can. if the catch can routes to the intake instead, that needs to be disconnected and plugged on the Blower Intake tube. 

Here is a pic of a STG1/2 V9 Intake tube the uppermost elbow where my thumb is, if there is a hose going to that that is connected to either the crankcase vent your your catch can, REMOVE that ISH and plug it. haha THIS is dripping OIL on your MAF sensor.


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

BLAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
I took out the supercharger for no reason then haha. Yes that is where my oil catch can connects to.... Hey at least I don't need to rebuild my supercharger...
what should I do with the other end of the PVC then? I can plug that hole and then what?


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

Oh just attach a catch can and plug the hole.. got it. Thanks a ton. saved me some money


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

If i were you i would 

Disconnect the hose from the catch can and add a breather filter for the catch can or plug it up. 
This is a breather for the crankcase or a catch can or a S/C case, w/e



Then get some silicone /rubber or plastic cap and find a way to Plug the elbow. on the Intake tube. 

If after this is done and oil is still getting on the MAF, your Blower is probably leaking and at that point you will have a definitive answer.


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

Wouldn't that breather filter get all oily?


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

Well it can, sure, but think UR stock intake doesn't get oily dose it.. U can just vent it in the can, then empty the can every week or two. depending on how u drive


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

What was the point of VF putting that hose there if it was just going to get the intake and MAF all dirty with oil?


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

And where can I get that nice breather filter?


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Emissions reasons. Technically its illegal to vent crankcase vapors to atmosphere. So when you get your state emissions testing done, some places might give you a hard time. Most places will cut you some slack tho, cause really, who cares? We're all going to die anyways


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

Would anyone happen to have an oldschool AMS OBD1 dizzy VR6 chip or ATP 310CC OBD1 dizzy VR6 chip they would like to part with?

Paypal ready or may be willing to trade straight up for a C2 OBD1 30# dizzy VR6 chip!


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

blackgolf1990 said:


> What was the point of VF putting that hose there if it was just going to get the intake and MAF all dirty with oil?


That's why it's imperative to engineer the vf out of vf engineering


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

Does anyone know where I can get a 2.3" or less pulley for a v-9 vortech?


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

Call Vortech


----------



## mars2 (Sep 16, 2008)

http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/6ribpulley.php
http://www.superchargerupgrades.com/

May be ask those guy's
Don't know if V9 is 17mm or 20mm


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Do you have the bearings to support that? That little V9 will blow apart going that fast.


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

No I don't, I'm kinda torn on what to do right now haha


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

V1 Upgrade Impeller 

From 928M it is $598

My price $525


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

DeckManDubs said:


> V1 Upgrade Impeller
> 
> From 928M it is $598
> 
> My price $525


I hate how supercharger stuff is so expensive. You can get a new turbo complete for that, haha. I just had to buy an output shaft for $325 plus another $220 in bearings for a rebuild. 
Somedays....


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

youlostme21 said:


> I hate how supercharger stuff is so expensive. You can get a new turbo complete for that, haha. I just had to buy an output shaft for $325 plus another $220 in bearings for a rebuild.
> Somedays....


Ouch! Sorry to hear you needed an output shaft. The price on stuff is expensive. A lot of it has to do with low volume.


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Yea, I just want to drive my car again... its been down too long. All the DSM guys at my work keep telling me to go turbo. 
Hopefully it'll make it to waterfest this year, even though it will be without the LSD trans waiting to go in. Can't wait to finally hook up in first and second. Should be a hell of a ride. 


On another topic though.
Anyone running an aftermarket DV? I think having a preload to keep it shut at idle would make response and part throttle alot better, which OEM dv's do not offer. 

Hoping to try one out this week still looking for someone with one I can borrow.


----------



## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

youlostme21;78219161. said:


> Can't wait to finally hook up in first and second. Should be a hell of a ride.


going AWD ? if not, you arent going to start hooking up in first and 2nd.


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Haha well, more so. I have a pair of stock 15's I want to put some nice sticky tires on for the track. 
Don't drag radials usually break parts more so then slicks? Not sure where I heard that tho...


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

found me a motor 
should be picking it up this weekend!


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

prometheus_ said:


> found me a motor
> should be picking it up this weekend!


good stuff adrian.......looking forward to seeing ya at berlin klassic.....


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

DeckManDubs said:


> V1 Upgrade Impeller
> 
> From 928M it is $598
> 
> My price $525


I have this in my V2 with Ceramic bearings


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

dmoe said:


> good stuff adrian.......looking forward to seeing ya at berlin klassic.....


probably won't be there, as i work sundays and will have already booked off friday/sunday so i can goto h20 at the end of the month


----------



## L. Fopps (Oct 17, 2006)

Anyone got a s/c they want to sell me? 


Sent with my thumbs


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

L. Fopps said:


> Anyone got a s/c they want to sell me?
> 
> 
> Sent with my thumbs


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5762575-FS-Vortech-V1-S-trim-with-extras-Fresh-Rebuild


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

If I wanted to, could I put an aftermarket impeller in my v-9 with the ceramic bearings to increase boost and more power?? or is that only a V1/V2 thing?
I'm guess supercharger rebuilds could do this?


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

blackgolf1990 said:


> If I wanted to, could I put an aftermarket impeller in my v-9 with the ceramic bearings to increase boost and more power?? or is that only a V1/V2 thing?
> I'm guess supercharger rebuilds could do this?


Yes and YES. IIRC 928 MS makes a different impeller for the V9, IF NOT, then Todd will have to mill the Volute on your V9 to accept the impeller. Id give him a call and ask about it. :thumbup:


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

Yeah, looks like they only have impellers for the V1/V2 chargers


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

So I finally rerouted the hose leaking oil and finally my MAF sensor is clean! It finally pulls strong!!


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

I like the idea of upgrading my Impeller as well as my bearings on my V1. But my Impeller looks nothing like the one 928 motorsports is showing on there web site. Mine has not been trimmed down like some of the older version have been. So I am looking for more feed back on just what 600 bucks gets me. Also what bearings would I want? Ceramic sounds so sexy but is that the best choice for a blower on a VR6 with a 2.5" pulley. 










My impeller has not been trimmed like the one in this pic.

I am also looking for good reason to go to Lugtronics OBD1 system. At the moment I use C2's 36lb OBD1 chip. 

Car specs 9-1 compression, Shrick 248 cams, intercooler, 2.7"" pulley and at MAX I see 13-15PSI. 

At last I am not poor so I would like to do some performance tuning to this sad old beast.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Scooter98144 said:


> I like the idea of upgrading my Impeller as well as my bearings on my V1. But my Impeller looks nothing like the one 928 motorsports is showing on there web site. Mine has not been trimmed down like some of the older version have been. So I am looking for more feed back on just what 600 bucks gets me. Also what bearings would I want? Ceramic sounds so sexy but is that the best choice for a blower on a VR6 with a 2.5" pulley.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



928M impeller will yield 2-4psi jump due to vane design. So your looking at 20-40whp gain with supporting fueling. 

As for ceramics. If your running on the upper bounds of the operational level of the charger ie over 75%, ceramics will help due to their ability to take more heat without changing. 

However, if the car is mostly spends its time at normal speeds and lower RPM's. The regular bearings are fine.


----------



## big_vw_ash (Jun 13, 2012)

hey guys, been trying to do some research on putting a charge cooler on my vf-9 vr6 but not really getting anywhere. has anyone on here done this or gone for an intercooler? any pics of the setup?


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

big_vw_ash said:


> hey guys, been trying to do some research on putting a charge cooler on my vf-9 vr6 but not really getting anywhere. has anyone on here done this or gone for an intercooler? any pics of the setup?


i will have my car back from the shop in a week or two i could email u some pics when i get it its a mk4 with a v9 charger with an intercooler pretty simple set up:thumbup:


----------



## big_vw_ash (Jun 13, 2012)

shazzam said:


> i will have my car back from the shop in a week or two i could email u some pics when i get it its a mk4 with a v9 charger with an intercooler pretty simple set up:thumbup:


 thanks, appreciate it bud


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

rhussjr said:


>


 Rodney, any chance you have the part #'s for the three pieces of silicone pictured above? 

I've search the Samcosport USA website & couldn't find any elbows like that with ports on them.


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

gunna sound stupid here for a minute but what does the oil line from the banjo fitting to the pressure side of the charger actually do? got my car started and it seems like alot of oil comes though this?


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

shazzam said:


> gunna sound stupid here for a minute but what does the oil line from the banjo fitting to the pressure side of the charger actually do? got my car started and it seems like alot of oil comes though this?


 i believe it's suppose to help the oil drain out of the charger :thumbup:


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

mk4vrjtta said:


> i believe it's suppose to help the oil drain out of the charger :thumbup:


 is that not what the drain line is for?:sly::sly::sly:


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

mk4vrjtta said:


> i believe it's suppose to help the oil drain out of the charger :thumbup:


 you are indeed correct i talked to vortec today, what it does is take some of the pressure from the charger and pushes the oil through the gearbox and the out the drain, so you sir are correct


----------



## rhussjr (Aug 7, 2000)

BlackSwan said:


> Rodney, any chance you have the part #'s for the three pieces of silicone pictured above?
> 
> I've search the Samcosport USA website & couldn't find any elbows like that with ports on them.


 The Samco hoses were specailly made for ZF, though Samco may still hold molds for the to make more.


----------



## Rheinland Technik (Apr 2, 2010)




----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

i'm assuming that turbo is teeny tiny for low end grunt


----------



## Das Vdub (Feb 15, 2005)

Is anyone running a v5 on their vr? I picked up one up from rheinland technik on here, with brackets. Still piecing together some parts but excited to get it on. This thread has been a wealth of knowledge.


----------



## R36Dreams (Jun 14, 2006)

Hey guys. I've had my stg II sitting in boxes for almost a year now and it's time to get off my ass. Going to try and do this myself. 
I'm gathering necessities before I start and will obviously have some questions along the way. First one is the oil pan. Going to order one from 1stvwparts. I plan to get a bung fitting welded for the oil return. Can someone reference me a part number or site to order it please? 

Also picking up new vacuum lines, boost/oil temp/pres guages. I've also been told that the harness doesn't quite reach for the injectors and that I'll need to solder extenstions on. I guess it's a good time to learn, huh?


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

Hey guys,
Just trying to figure out an afr issue with my car. Its a vortech v2 with c2 42 software and and 440cc injectors running a 12psi pulley. I hooked up an aem uego wideband, and my readings were fine (14.5 at idle and 11.5ish at wot)......the car started to run a bit rough after that. It turns out i had a plugged cat. I took the guts out of the cat and ever since then, my readings seem crazy lean. At idle its reading --- which is around 17 and is the same at cruising speeds.when i get on the gas at full boost its around 14.5.......very lean. I am not sure whats going on here. I dont know if its a bad sensor or what, but it stays consistent it seems. I have my walbro 255 disconnected but i am not sure if this is the real issue because my readings right before the plugged cat were fine and the walbro was disconnected then. I am not sure whats going on....the car seems to run great and pulls hard. Its just the wideband giving me whacky readings.

Any ideas??


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Disconnect the battery and touch the cables together to drain everything, reconnect and drive for alil bit and recheck. 
The computer learns and adapts so it may not have figured out yet that the cat isn't clogged anymore. 
If anything it will let you get a more honest reading of whats going on


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

I think the sensor is bad. I am going to do the brake cleaner test with the sensor and see if its bad or not. I will also do the battery trick too 

I will keep yas posted


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

So is anyone running an aftermarket DV? I just got my car up and running again although with the MAF alil too close to the dump line... But it was running and driving ok, would stumble between shifts which was expected. 
Then I put in a diff DV... Now the car stumbles all over it self. Part throttle is horrible, pulling out from a stop it wants to fall on its face unless you WOT it until about 3k then it takes off.

Unplug the MAF and its runs great aslong as your not in boost. 

Hooked up VAG-COM. No codes
Logging at idle while its running like garbage and part my MAF reading drops to ~3.5g/s and the Throttle control will go up to 20% trying to pick it up. 
I installed the DV with the piston inline with boost pressure as described by Forge for their valve. 

I don't understand how a DV can cause this much of an issue. Its not open at idle so all air thats coming in the Charger and to the engine and is not rerouted but at idle its not making any pressure. 

I need to extend the intake back across but haven't had the time yet. But I still don't see that fixing this. 
Might just have to switch back to a stock Bosch DV but I just don't understand why...


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

What sorta fittings are being used in between the fuel rail & the schimmel fpr adapter?

Is it just a couple of 45 & 90 degree -an fittings or an off the shelf piece?

I ask because I'm looking to do something similar so my fpr adapter can clear my V9.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

That was a first revision. It was later switched to the following http://www.verdictmotorsports.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=0019

I will try to dig up the later pics, but using all those NPT fittings is asking for a fuel leak. So going to this setup with the FPR on the other side, cleared up room and made it cleaner.


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

Thanks for the reply!

So the 2nd version had the BBM cup on the drivers side end of the fuel rail?

What size threads does my aftermarket rail need to be tapped out for to run that BBM cup?


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

You shouldn't need to tap anything. You just need to get the correct fitting. What rail is it?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

BlackSwan said:


> Thanks for the reply!
> 
> So the 2nd version had the BBM cup on the drivers side end of the fuel rail?
> 
> What size threads does my aftermarket rail need to be tapped out for to run that BBM cup?












You just need the correct adapter fitting. You can drop Phil an email and he will get you all set.


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

....


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

dmoe said:


> Hey guys.
> I am trying to figure out my AFR readings. I have an AEM wideband. When i hooked it up in the spring, the readings seemed good. At idle, i was around 14.5 and wot was around 11.5.....I then found out that my cat was completely plugged and i had a small exhaust leak. I took the guts out of the cat and welded it back together. I also tightened the flange bolt where i thought the exhaust leak was. At idle, my gauge reads lean. Its reading (---). I think its sitting around 18 because the lightest tap of the pedal gets me around 17.5. at cruising speeds (110km/h) afr sits around 16. And at full boost it goes down to around 13.5.
> 
> Also in cold starts, its always done this, but when i start it, its almost like it wants to stall out. sometimes if i give it a little gas it will stall out. As soon as the car is warmed up things are all good, but just on cold starts it does it.
> ...


When was your MAF replaced? Seems like it might be causing a false reading.


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

....


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

dmoe said:


> when we were trying to figure out why the car was running like junk (plugged cat), we took apart the intake and found a bunch of oil on the maf. The pvc was dripping on the maf, so i replaced the maf, and took the pcv out of the intake. The filter still feels a little oily tho.


3 bar FPR? As for the cold starts. Could be low compression/general crappy C2 cold start issues. The part throttle afr's look ok, but the WOT should be 12.0-12.5.


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

DeckManDubs said:


> 3 bar FPR? As for the cold starts. Could be low compression/general crappy C2 cold start issues. The part throttle afr's look ok, but the WOT should be 12.0-12.5.


compression is good across the board. 3bar yes. Could be c2 I guess. The afr is just bugging me.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

dmoe said:


> compression is good across the board. 3bar yes. Could be c2 I guess. The afr is just bugging me.


Bump up to a 4 bar and see how your air/fuels run there. 3.5 might be the sweet spot.


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

DeckManDubs said:


> Bump up to a 4 bar and see how your air/fuels run there. 3.5 might be the sweet spot.


maybe buy an adjustable one


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

they're about the same price, DO IT


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

prometheus_ said:


> they're about the same price, DO IT


where have you seen them for sale...i saw ecs, but anywhere else?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

ECS _had_ them on sale at one point.
I don't know who else sells OEM fit ones for a better price.

With that said, theyre currently $150, with 4bar being like $50


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

prometheus_ said:


> ECS _had_ them on sale at one point.
> I don't know who else sells OEM fit ones for a better price.
> 
> With that said, theyre currently $150, with 4bar being like $50


maybe just buy the 4bar then?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

dmoe said:


> maybe just buy the 4bar then?


worth a shot i suppose.
see what the stealer wants for it first, as it may be worth the convenience over shipping costs etc


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

Bahn Brenner has pretty good prices on those adj. fpr's.


----------



## VdubBry (May 9, 2000)

Hey all, This thread has helped me through my whole build and I've got just about everything sorted but this issue. 

I am running a V2, with C2 Stage II software, 97 VR6 OBDII. I know I am supposed to run a DV no vent to atmosphere. If I run a DV, it idles awful and doesn't run well.

I had a TurboSmart Kompact adjustable valve. I put that in, she idles right around 14.4-14.9 consistent, cruising is around the same, WOT its seeing upper 12's (I think it should be a bit lower)

Why would I have issues when I put the DV in, it's the DV the 1.8T uses. I have a plug kit on order for the TurboSmart that takes the trumpet out and plugs that hole so I think in essence it will be a DV?

I have posted a picture of my intake side of the setup. I have put in a brand new MAF sensor as well.

Ideas, suggestions?


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

...


----------



## VdubBry (May 9, 2000)

I don't remember it coming with any different springs just the settings for softer/harder. I have it set for all the way hard. I am curious to see what plugging the trumpet does.


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

If u open it up and see a green spring u are good. Ya who knows what's gonna happen when u block the trumpet. Let us know


----------



## VdubBry (May 9, 2000)

I don't remember the spring being green when I had it open. I will doublecheck. I hope that it doesn't run like crap like when I tried the fully recirc DV from the 1.8T, that was awful. I know C2 want's no atmospheric vent though with their software. I guess I will find out soon enough.

For the most part it's running good, just some quirks here and there, I want to make sure I have it all running perfect since the last time it was running way to lean and toasted the bottom end with only 1500 miles on it!


----------



## kurlywildkyle (Oct 23, 2010)

i see a lot of people running stg 2 vf s/c. can a stock engine run that no problem? i was only planning on going stage 1. when i was talking to my buddy who helps me with my car i mentioned how i was thinking about just going stage 2 and he wasnt sure if a normal 12v could hold that.


----------



## blackgolf1990 (Jun 26, 2008)

Kurly, they can with no problems. I had an '01 12v GTi with the stage 3 vf sc and nothing done to the motor and there was no problems


----------



## VdubBry (May 9, 2000)

I would just be careful depending how old your bottom end is etc. When I first slapped the V2 setup on mine it had 128K miles, only thing done was chains etc. It made it a good 5,000 miles or so before I started getting crazy oil blow-by etc. The bottom end was just beat, the supercharger finished it off lol.


----------



## kurlywildkyle (Oct 23, 2010)

Wellim actually doing a complete rebuild with arp bolts


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

If you're motor is in good shape, you can push 15psi all day long with a mk4 hg np. I ran that setup with cams and other things, and it made reliable power all day everyday.


----------



## kurlywildkyle (Oct 23, 2010)

alright sweet. i actually talked to a guy the other day about a vf supercharger and a kinetic turbo and he said his buddy had a kinetic turbo and even tho it was fast as balls he was constantly having mechanical problems with it. so im definatly going to be going with th VF stage 2 supercharger so its going on a daily. 

thanks for the info guys :thumbup:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

just make sure you don't end up running lean :banghead:


----------



## kurlywildkyle (Oct 23, 2010)

another question guys. ive been debating on making my block bullet proof by getting new pistns and rods. i seen people run fine with that with stock but what my question is should i DEF get new ones or is doing that more for reissurance. i know it would be better too of course but god damn are rods $$$$.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

for a supercharged vr, it would be overkill tbh


----------



## kurlywildkyle (Oct 23, 2010)

okay thank you. that was what i was hoping to hear.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

kurlywildkyle said:


> another question guys. ive been debating on making my block bullet proof by getting new pistns and rods. i seen people run fine with that with stock but what my question is should i DEF get new ones or is doing that more for reissurance. i know it would be better too of course but god damn are rods $$$$.


If your block is tired, a nice hone, pistons and rings wouldn't hurt. Rods are overkill for a 12v unless you're making over 500whp.

FYI stay away from a MK4 head gasket if high boost is in your future. Its a common misconception to bump compression, which is fine for N/A. However it ends up causing detonation problems over 600 CFMs on stock management.

:thumbup:


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

havnt posted in a while but here it goes, so i blew 3rd gear and thought i might as well throw in a new clutch and flywheel while the trans is off. im going with an autotech steel flywheel, but am having a hard time deceiding on a clutch. the car is making a little over 300whp and 250ftlbs. the stock clutch really never slipped but if im going to get a new clutch i might as well upgrade a little bit. so what kind of clutches are you guys running? i was looking at spec clutches, any good? any suggestions are welcome, but im not trying to spend $500+ on just a clutch

thanks! :beer:

edit: im starting to lean more towards an oem sachs clutch considering ive never had any problems with it, the trq rating is like 300ft lbs (correct me if im wrong), and the price is quite nice.
thoughts?


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

I run a clutchnet green pressure plate with a sprung 6 puck, never had any issues


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I just picked up that clutch package to get installed this weekend, along with my new motor :facepalm:


----------



## VdubBry (May 9, 2000)

I had a stage 3 Spec clutch and didn't care for it at all. Just rebuilt motor etc and did a SouthBend and love it. Very street able but still great performance.


----------



## divineVR6 (Mar 21, 2002)

I've read through and skimmed through a good bit of the post on here, but never every single one so forgive me if I missed it. I haven't seen much about the V-9 F trim charger talked about. I know the V-1 and V-2 are bigger.

What type of numbers are people putting up with the V-9?

What size pulley are you running and any motor work?

Ill be trading a fella my Squareback for a V-9f blower and it will come with 3.25 pulley which i heard is roughly 6psi and a 2.62 which is roughly 10-12psi

my motor specs are:
Cat 268 cams
stage 2 centerforce clutch and lighten flywheel
Schrick intake mani
42dd test pipe 2.5 through to Ghl muffler

currently running just a C2, what software do people recommend?:beer::beer:

what numbers would i be looking at putting down possibly?


----------



## VdubBry (May 9, 2000)

dmoe said:


> If u open it up and see a green spring u are good. Ya who knows what's gonna happen when u block the trumpet. Let us know


I got the plug from TurboSmart, turns out it is too big for my hybrid BOV, mine is 3-4 years old and the hole is like 1", their new valves it is like 1.25 or 1.5". So if that is the size of yours, You can have mine for just the cost of shipping if needed.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

divineVR6 said:


> what numbers would i be looking at putting down possibly?


I'd ballpark around 260ish to the wheels & 10psi, those cams are doing all the work, but the V9 can't really do much else without grenading/slipping


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

divineVR6 said:


> I've read through and skimmed through a good bit of the post on here, but never every single one so forgive me if I missed it. I haven't seen much about the V-9 F trim charger talked about. I know the V-1 and V-2 are bigger.
> 
> What type of numbers are people putting up with the V-9?
> 
> ...


Glad you found this thread... Im looking forward to getting another type 3!


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

divineVR6 said:


> I've read through and skimmed through a good bit of the post on here, but never every single one so forgive me if I missed it. I haven't seen much about the V-9 F trim charger talked about. I know the V-1 and V-2 are bigger.
> 
> What type of numbers are people putting up with the V-9?
> 
> ...


Look up slc92 on here. He made around 275whp and ran mid 12's iirc with his setup.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

groupracer made 313whp on his V9 setup :thumbup:


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

Kit for sale/trade. 
I have a customer who isnt on vortex that wants $2K for his VF kit. (V9, OBD2 MK3 VR). 
He will need your ECU, Intake tube/pipe, Serp Tensioner w/ belt & injectors. 
located in LI, NY
..said Id put the word out for him. 

He's had it on less than a yr. cant tell ya exact milage etc. IM for contact/further details.


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

VdubBry said:


> I got the plug from TurboSmart, turns out it is too big for my hybrid BOV, mine is 3-4 years old and the hole is like 1", their new valves it is like 1.25 or 1.5". So if that is the size of yours, You can have mine for just the cost of shipping if needed.


Mine is the same as yours. I had to make a plug for trumpet. Its a real fine thread so a quick trip to the machine shop and made my own


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Oh man, check out my sweet oil pickup from the old motor :screwy::laugh:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Right, so thanks to Chris (Banana.Phone), I picked up a motor to swap in.
A friend was really helping me out (325isStephen) with his experience & shop 

It was a pretty steep ordeal, since my setup is OBD1 distributor and the replacement motor was OBD2 coilpack, and the time frame was extremely limited (3 days tops).

This meant changing a bunch of gaskets, plugging SAI, swapping upper timing covers, and changing the speed ring from the sprocket 2-4-6 cam.

That is where things got dicey since to change the speed ring, you have to undo one of the cam bolts, and we don't have a cam tool. Upon torquing the bolt back up, the chain jumped some teeth...

Sooo, that meant the top needed to be timed, but then we noticed that the lower guides were broken....

Sooo, that meant the bottom end needed to be timed. It seems that whoever had installed the new-ish chains had over-tightened the guides and completely snapped them. Fortunately the ones from my motor were still good (and new-ish). Although one of the guides was from my dual chain setup (obd2 is single), the motor doesn't make any chain noise whatsoever 

Once we finally got the motor buttoned up and in the car, we did what I had been dreading, changed the pans. From the above post, you can see that my oil pickup has a crack.
What you're about to see is how lovely THIS pickup was....










Totally obliterated. Sadly, in the interest of time, we reused my pickup.
Since the motor had been sitting for a few months, the intent is to change out the oil before the drive down to H20, and do the pickup at that time.

All in all, she fired up on the first try, and aside from some loud lifters (which have already gotten considerably quieter), she runs like butter.

I'm not beating on it quite yet, since we also installed a clutchnet stage1 (green 300ft-lb) setup at the same time.






I wish I had remembered to film what the car looked and sounded like before, because this new motor is soo goddamn smooth and waay quieter. Not to mention it doesn't have smoke billowing out of the hood whenever I stop.

The new motor has normal vapour out of the vent, but nothing serious at all :thumbup:

For the record, the old motor I was driving had compression of 180-190 or so, except for cylinders 3 & 5 which barely broke 80. Sounded like I had some bigass cams :facepalm:


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

Prometheus, glad to see you sorted everything out and are back up and running!

To clarify you're not using the cracked pump with the new engine are you??

We had a car in a few years back with a similar crack in the pump. The previous owner drove the car dumped and apparently destroyed the original pan. Instead of replacing the pump it just got a new pan and was sold. We got the car in for work which had next to zero oil pressure. The blower was obviously toast and the engine had some serious wear from lack of oil.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I am until the end of the week.
I have no way to get to/from work without my car, and didn't order the part ahead of time (not cheap). So, I'm doing another oil change before I head out to H20, and will be replacing it then.


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

At what PSI are you guys running inline fuel pumps? 
C2 30#, 262's and I push around 13-14psi but dont have a wideband yet. Not sure which I should buy first since the wideband will either tell me I shoulda bought the fuel pump or that there is probably other problems. 
Thanks. 

Any any one using a Forge DV or any of the like? 

Not sure if it was cause to much backpressure on the impeller.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

prometheus_ said:


> I am until the end of the week.
> I have no way to get to/from work without my car, and didn't order the part ahead of time (not cheap). So, I'm doing another oil change before I head out to H20, and will be replacing it then.


YIKES!!

No its not cheap, but neither is an engine replacement. Your pump is without question not supplying enough oil throughout. I'm surprised it hasn't caused immediate damage. It looks a lot worse then the pump we came across and that engine was toast from lack of oil.



youlostme21 said:


> At what PSI are you guys running inline fuel pumps?
> C2 30#, 262's and I push around 13-14psi but dont have a wideband yet. Not sure which I should buy first since the wideband will either tell me I shoulda bought the fuel pump or that there is probably other problems.
> Thanks.
> 
> ...


Blower size, boost level, cam selection and tune/injector size all play a part. Typically anything north of 12psi will require an additional or high flow fuel pump. As mentioned, if you do go the route of an inline, make sure its pre-filter. This can be tough depending on the chassis, but is obviously the most ideal location for an inline.

One thing to think about is stepping up to a larger intank pump. Schimmel makes a high flow drop in as does 034. Both are plug and play, so no dealing with running new lines, wires or the like. Installation is a lot easier and you won't be stuck listening to the annoying buzz of an inline.

http://www.spturbo.com/onlinestore/index.php/tuning-and-fuel/pump/mk3-intake-fuel-pump.html


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

Prometheus, pm me your address and ill send you a spare/used vr oil pump if you didn't already order one. I had 2, ordered a new one bc I just wanted a fresh one, and now have 2 laying around. 

About inline pumps, I ran mk4 hg, 268's, and 14-15psi. Over 11psi I went lean. Tossed a walbro pump in, never went lean again. So def look into getting one ASAP. I'd do that over the wideband just bc it will be a safer bet.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

PM'd (obv). 

I'm really anxious to ramp up the boost, but A. I'm still breaking in the new clutch, B. breaking in a new motor that's been sitting, and C. that oil pickup  

Tempted to do what you were doing mike, and just run a belt w/ no idler


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Well, scored a wide band for a decnt price so I'm going to stick that in and see where its at. I have a 3.12 pulley too that I might throw on to lower the boost to a safe level for now.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

any of you folks planning on being @ h20 this year?


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

I'm trying to get my car back up and running tommorow so it will make it. Need to take the fun car to atleast one show this year.


----------



## Vw FreäK1 (Jul 20, 2010)

Hey guys! I have a few questions: 

1. Does anybody know what size of belt do I need to use if im running no p/s with a/c, 12 psi pulley and double idler pulley?? 

2. And Here is my major question. I have a BIG!! problem with my set up! I have a 98' vr with a v1 blower and 12 psi pulley, stage 2 c2 software, 4'' maf and 440 green tops and when I hit 6+ psi or 5000 and up Rpm's the car goes WAY LEAN!!! And I dont know what it can be. 

If you guys can help me I will appreciated so much! :wave:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Just found out I've got a pinhole leak in one of my heater hoses :banghead: 
Leaving for H20 in under 24hrs, so it looks like I've got my hands full after work tomorrow :thumbdown:


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

Vw FreäK said:


> Hey guys! I have a few questions:
> 
> 1. Does anybody know what size of belt do I need to use if im running no p/s with a/c, 12 psi pulley and double idler pulley??
> 
> ...


 1) The easiest way of determining your belt length is to get a cloth measuring tape and run it in place of the belt itself. That will give you the most accurate sizing of all. 

2) How are you determining your engine is running lean and at what A/F ratio? What fuel pump are you running? Does the engine have cams? If so what duration? 

C2 440cc file has _more _ then enough fuel to support your boost level.


----------



## Vw FreäK1 (Jul 20, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> 1) The easiest way of determining your belt length is to get a cloth measuring tape and run it in place of the belt itself. That will give you the most accurate sizing of all.
> 
> 2) How are you determining your engine is running lean and at what A/F ratio? What fuel pump are you running? Does the engine have cams? If so what duration?
> 
> C2 440cc file has _more _ then enough fuel to support your boost level.


Thanks for the info on the belt length...

Well I'm determining my A/F Ratio with my AEM Wideband... It goes between 13.2-14 when boosting more than 6-7 psi or 5000+ RPM. Although it idles between 11.8-12.3

My car has 2.9 clone intake mani, 263/264 cams with full 2.5'' exhaust and ported exhaust manifolds and an ECS fuel regulator


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

You need an Inline pump. I ran a walbro 155gph unit, perfect.


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

Vw FreäK said:


> Thanks for the info on the belt length...
> 
> Well I'm determining my A/F Ratio with my AEM Wideband... It goes between 13.2-14 when boosting more than 6-7 psi or 5000+ RPM. Although it idles between 11.8-12.3
> 
> My car has 2.9 clone intake mani, 263/264 cams with full 2.5'' exhaust and ported exhaust manifolds and an ECS fuel regulator



...


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Any of you guys in ocean city?
I'm in the red mk3 jetta with Ontario plates


----------



## divineVR6 (Mar 21, 2002)

anybody running a z-engineering charger?


----------



## VdubBry (May 9, 2000)

I have the C2 Stage II file, and I know it does the fuel cut at coasting in gear above around 2000RPM, but what should she be running when coasting under 2K RPM, coasting under 2K she goes mostly full rich and gives an annoying bucking type feeling.


----------



## slimvdub (Apr 8, 2004)

I have read most of this thread and decided to do this s/c thing. I have a few questions? This is going to be a v1 single idler

1. I would like to know the part# for the vortech idler pulley mine seems to large I cant fit the belt in between it and the Alt. 

2: I also have a dual idler bracket but no pulleys for it would anyone happen to know the part numbers for them i see a large and small one. Also would i need a diffrent belt other than my single idler one?

I am getting all the parts for my kit gathered up I have a list off all the parts and part numbers including the small stuff like fittings and lines hoses and tubing and such. When my kit is finshed and running and has the bugs worked out I would be more than happy to post it up to help people along


Thanks In Advance


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

I have a single Idler set up. Its a vortech pulley and it is pretty tight between the idler and the charger but there is plenty of room between the idler and the alternator.
Not to say my setup is right either tho... I tried to put a bigger 3.12" pulley on my charger and couldn't cause the idler haha. So I kept the 2.62 and will be installing my Wideband tomorrow to see whats happening. 

I made it to OC and back but I scanned my car on the way back just to see. Stored a p1158 Long term fuel trims lean... Ever since I got the c2 chip it would always run terrible for a bit after reconnected the battery or clearing codes. I think I'm going ot have to swap to known 30# injectors and see what happens. Not sure I should trust some of the vortex clowns.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

You were in OC? Which car was yours?


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

To h20 obviously haha. Stayed on 14th street saturday night. Parked ont he highway for the show in sunday. Don't have any good pictures really but it was a POS spraybombed red Gti with a blonde in the pass seat. 
The shell is junk so all my efforts have gone towards the powertrain to prepare for a swap.



Edit::
Older picture 
Now has a PA plate, early Jetta OEM 2piece grille, No roof rack, 16x8 all around, and a duckbill instead. And a revised intake setup


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

not sure if i saw you, but i was in this (below) ripping around the strip in 2nd/3rd


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Has anyone considered running one of these?









You can get them for $150, in 6 & 8 rib, anywhere from 2.7 to 3.33 diameter.
Not only are they slotted, but apparently the slots are tied into those holes you see, creating a vacuum on the belt. 

I am considering one before the season is out opcorn:


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

Where can you buy that pulley?

Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

BlackSwan said:


> Where can you buy that pulley?
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk


http://www.lethalperformance.com/reichard-racing-96-04-mustang-ultra-grip-sc-pulley-vortech.html


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

been pondering at the idea of putting my maf sensor post s/c so i could just run a filter directly on the s/c. we (mk4 vr's) have a "hot wire" style MAf correct? anyone with a s/c vr do this? i know most of the software for our kits call for the MAF to be before the s/c, but if we have a hot wire maf it wouldnt matter would it? (because the denser air will remove more heat from the wire indicating a higher mass airflow)

discuss :thumbup:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

iirc people used to have ****ty performance from post-blower MAFs.
That's a crapload of hot air being shoved through the thing.

standalone to remove your maf and all that pipe


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

prometheus_ said:


> iirc people used to have ****ty performance from post-blower MAFs.
> That's a crapload of hot air being shoved through the thing.
> 
> standalone to remove your maf and all that pipe


i wonder why. maybe because of too much turbulance? im tempted to try it out. just wanted to see other peoples opinions and get some facts

this is stright from WIKI for a hot wire maf:

If air density increases due to pressure increase or temperature drop, but the air volume remains constant, the denser air will remove more heat from the wire indicating a higher mass airflow. Unlike the vane meter's paddle sensing element, the hot wire responds directly to air density. This sensor's capabilities are well suited to support the gasoline combustion process which fundamentally responds to air mass, not air volume. 

this is pretty much saying it doesnt matter whether it's pre or post s/c because pressure doesnt matter correct?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

mk4vrjtta said:


> been pondering at the idea of putting my maf sensor post s/c so i could just run a filter directly on the s/c. we (mk4 vr's) have a "hot wire" style MAf correct? anyone with a s/c vr do this? i know most of the software for our kits call for the MAF to be before the s/c, but if we have a hot wire maf it wouldnt matter would it? (because the denser air will remove more heat from the wire indicating a higher mass airflow)
> 
> discuss :thumbup:


Early AMS kits were designed to run the MAF post supercharger. They ran excellent, but again.. it was tuned that way and was low boost. Turbulence is definitely an issue, even more so with newer style MAFs. 

Although it is cleaner and simplifies quite a bit. If you want to go through the trouble, ditch the MAF, run a MAP and go standalone.

Phil


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> Early AMS kits were designed to run the MAF post supercharger. They ran excellent, but again.. it was tuned that way and was low boost. Turbulence is definitely an issue, even more so with newer style MAFs.
> 
> Although it is cleaner and simplifies quite a bit. If you want to go through the trouble, ditch the MAF, run a MAP and go standalone.
> 
> Phil


 if pressure doesnt matter, and you have the same amount of air (just more dense) what would be different in the tune?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

mk4vrjtta said:


> if pressure doesnt matter, and you have the same amount of air (just more dense) what would be different in the tune?


The MAF will handle pressure to a _certain_ extent, but under higher pressure it freaks out when run like that.

Granted.. if you were to switch to a different sensor. I suppose the Bosch V8 or Hitachi sensor with supporting file may be able to handle it.


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> The MAF will handle pressure to a _certain_ extente.


does this mean it doesnt matter whether it's pre or post s/c on a low boost application?

edit: here is a pretty good thread on the subject. there is a guy that put his once pre turbo maf to a blow thru maf and worked fine. It was a mk4 2.0t, but the actual maf sensor is the same for the mk4 vr http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...what-would-need-done&highlight=post+turbo+maf


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

I've seen & ridden in quite a few "non-ams" chipped cars that run the maf post charger & they don't seem to have an issue.

Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

BlackSwan said:


> I've seen & ridden in quite a few "non-ams" chipped cars that run the maf post charger & they don't seem to have an issue.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk


any idea what software they're running?


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

C2, giac, TT


----------



## DOPEMONEY (Aug 22, 2012)

:banghead600b 96 vr6 passat c2 stg2 (race) 430 injectors 4"maf 2.75 pulley......why is it that when i get into boost (2psi) she falls on her face and farts back thru the intake pipe?:banghead:


----------



## DOPEMONEY (Aug 22, 2012)

DOPEMONEY said:


> :banghead600b 96 vr6 passat c2 stg2 (race) 430 injectors 4"maf 2.75 pulley......why is it that when i get into boost (2psi) she falls on her face and farts back thru the intake pipe?:banghead:



HELP


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

DOPEMONEY said:


> HELP


cel?


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

DOPEMONEY said:


> :banghead600b 96 vr6 passat c2 stg2 (race) 430 injectors 4"maf 2.75 pulley......why is it that when i get into boost (2psi) she falls on her face and farts back thru the intake pipe?:banghead:


Plugged cat? I had the same problem last year. It wouldn't fall on its face but everytime I would hit around 3k rpm it would completely stop accelerating. I even had troubles getting up to 100km/h.


----------



## DOPEMONEY (Aug 22, 2012)

Na...im straight piped.......drove it to church sunday morning it only 6mpg :what: without me ever pushing it into boost....gonna get an afpr and try to pull some fuel... .it smells like death and evertime you rev it it leaves a black sut on the ground.....


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

O2 sensors still good?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

prometheus_ said:


> O2 sensors still good?


x2

o2 or o2 and MAF. Has it been running this bad since you installed the blower or just recently? 

Is there a chance you installed the MAF sensor backwards?


----------



## slimvdub (Apr 8, 2004)

slimvdub said:


> I have read most of this thread and decided to do this s/c thing. I have a few questions? This is going to be a v1 single idler
> 
> 1. I would like to know the part# for the vortech idler pulley mine seems to large I cant fit the belt in between it and the Alt.
> 
> ...


So got it all running but its running way rich. At wot i get a bad surge and black smoke. I think my problem is I dont know what tune I am using or injectors lol. It was sold to me as a c2 stage 2 #30 but no sicker on it and no way to tell if it is. Also my injectors are all black with the bosch # ground off of it. I am running a dv from a turbo volvo, v1charger dual idler and noticed when i clocked it there was no oring or anything on the housing. Should there be? I have a 4" maf but i am ruuning the stock one as low as i can with a filter still on it. Also make no boost untill 3000rpms. So right now its looking like i should have spent more money at the begining instead of piecing all the parts together as cheap as i could.

Also wanna add i have 262 cams portmatched upper to lower, test pipe with thermal r&d exhaust.


----------



## DOPEMONEY (Aug 22, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> x2
> 
> o2 or o2 and MAF. Has it been running this bad since you installed the blower or just recently?
> 
> Is there a chance you installed the MAF sensor backwards?


Just since the blower install...But yeah now that i think about it...it was a little wealthy before the blower...every blue moon i would get a fuel stench for a few hours...and yeah theres always that chance of human error....I might have reversed the maf....But hell i didnt think she would run at all if i had it (maf) in backwards....as soon as i get it right and do my two weeks at work i'll post some vids....eace:


----------



## slimvdub (Apr 8, 2004)

slimvdub said:


> So got it all running but its running way rich. At wot i get a bad surge and black smoke. I think my problem is I dont know what tune I am using or injectors lol. It was sold to me as a c2 stage 2 #30 but no sicker on it and no way to tell if it is. Also my injectors are all black with the bosch # ground off of it. I am running a dv from a turbo volvo, v1charger dual idler and noticed when i clocked it there was no oring or anything on the housing. Should there be? I have a 4" maf but i am ruuning the stock one as low as i can with a filter still on it. Also make no boost untill 3000rpms. So right now its looking like i should have spent more money at the begining instead of piecing all the parts together as cheap as i could.
> 
> Also wanna add i have 262 cams portmatched upper to lower, test pipe with thermal r&d exhaust.



Ok now I got a code p1127


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

P1127 has something to do with you running rich.
If you're spewing lots of black smoke when you goose it, then I'd say you're running pretty rich


----------



## slimvdub (Apr 8, 2004)

well fixed my rich problem. I replaced my stock maf for a 4" one. Now my only problem is a little shutter stumble at cruzing rpms. I think its gonna be the maf being to close to the charger many of you have.


----------



## DOPEMONEY (Aug 22, 2012)

DOPEMONEY said:


> Just since the blower install...But yeah now that i think about it...it was a little wealthy before the blower...every blue moon i would get a fuel stench for a few hours...and yeah theres always that chance of human error....I might have reversed the maf....But hell i didnt think she would run at all if i had it (maf) in backwards....as soon as i get it right and do my two weeks at work i'll post some vids....eace:




Its good to have homeboys who dont mind working on your ish while your out of town just for the love of dubbin....oh yeah dont mind all of my wheels scattered outside...i buy them then take them to his house so my wife wont bug out

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBcL0GnxsYM&feature=youtube_gdata_player


----------



## DOPEMONEY (Aug 22, 2012)

Previous post has a vid of the initial start of my procharged b4 wagon...opcorn:


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Hooked up a wideband today. Was pretty happy actually. Took a good run down the road and pulled all the way to 7k at around 13-14psi and it kept it right around 11.5-12. 
Does some weird stuff when not WOT. 
Coming to a stop it will climb up to about 17 and hang out for about 10 seconds, this is when it idles rough and vacumn bouncing at 12"hg. Then it will figure itself out and go back to 14.7 and idle at 18"hg. 

This along with a P1128 (long term fuel trim lean)
Not sure if its the intake setup or an O2 sensor issue.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

youlostme21 said:


> Hooked up a wideband today. Was pretty happy actually. Took a good run down the road and pulled all the way to 7k at around 13-14psi and it kept it right around 11.5-12.
> Does some weird stuff when not WOT.
> Coming to a stop it will climb up to about 17 and hang out for about 10 seconds, this is when it idles rough and vacumn bouncing at 12"hg. Then it will figure itself out and go back to 14.7 and idle at 18"hg.
> 
> ...


Could very well be an o2. 

Check for vacumm and boost leaks, loose clamps, injector o-rings, and make sure your diverter is opening and closing as it should. If the valve is sticking it would explain the hanging and lean code.

:thumbup:


----------



## slimvdub (Apr 8, 2004)

All done and now running great at a pretty steady 8psi

V1 Charger not sure what pulley dual Idler set up c2 tune 30# injectors 4" MAF bosch n710 dv. All couplers from http://www.siliconeintakes.com/ upper intake tube from a dodge truck turbo diesel. Oil feed and return lines sourced from summit racing. All parts sourced and installed In 1 month not to shabby I think. But now I want more boost.


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

slimvdub said:


> But now I want more boost.


Time to switch to turbo. Lol


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Cogs.


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Love the charge pipe, good idea!


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

prometheus_ said:


> Cogs.


:laugh: They are fun!


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> :laugh: They are fun!


If the RR notched pulley doesnt work, I'll be giving you a shout this spring 
edit; assuming i dont trade it for cash + super clean mk2 coupe


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Anyone need a 3.12" 7 rib?
Vortech 3.12


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

prometheus_ said:


> If the RR notched pulley doesnt work, I'll be giving you a shout this spring
> edit; assuming i dont trade it for cash + super clean mk2 coupe


:laugh:


----------



## DumpedDub (Sep 16, 2004)

Well im going to get started on the Charger install on the corrado looking for a little input here 
Procharger C1 intercooled
FPR and thinking running #42 injectors (30 now)
Inline pump 
head spacer 
262 cams 
either stay with the 2.5 pulley thats 15psi or run the 2.25 pulley at 19psi but not sure i want that much slip
Getting a custom slightly larger crank pulley 
The kit on PO car was said to put down 330whp 
Running a NA tt chip any input would be good thanks in advance


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

slimvdub said:


> All done and now running great at a pretty steady 8psi
> 
> V1 Charger not sure what pulley dual Idler set up c2 tune 30# injectors 4" MAF bosch n710 dv. All couplers from http://www.siliconeintakes.com/ upper intake tube from a dodge truck turbo diesel. Oil feed and return lines sourced from summit racing. All parts sourced and installed In 1 month not to shabby I think. But now I want more boost.


Very nice job on the charge pipe :thumbup:



DumpedDub said:


> Well im going to get started on the Charger install on the corrado looking for a little input here
> Procharger C1 intercooled
> FPR and thinking running #42 injectors (30 now)
> Inline pump
> ...



Interesting setup. Staying with the 2.5" pulley will help keep the belt slip in check. As for the software, your really need to go with a FI chip. Or you can go with standalone which will yield the best reliability and power. 30# injectors max out @ 250-270whp. So you will need to run the 42# injectors. A larger crank will help increase the boost ratio a little bit.

:thumbup:


----------



## DumpedDub (Sep 16, 2004)

Thanks i forgot the mention that its Dizzy not obd2 

also a 255 pump should be good correct?





[email protected] said:


> Very nice job on the charge pipe :thumbup:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

DumpedDub said:


> Thanks i forgot the mention that its Dizzy not obd2
> 
> also a 255 pump should be good correct?



Yes. Or you can do a drop in 044. I prefer to run the intake units as it does not require extra wiring/messing with lines.










As for being Dizzy. Your only real option is to run a Plug and Play VEMS setup in order to really nail the tune down. The only good software out there for supercharged Dizzy VR6's is the GIAC stuff that was sold with the VF-Engineering kits. 

If you need any help chasing info/support/parts down, drop us a line :beer:


----------



## avihai-t (Sep 10, 2009)

E mail this guy Vince Saiya at stealthracing
http://www.stealthracing.co.uk/

he done a lot of vr6 superchrger
he can make for you maflees tune it work very good
we have it more then 7 years without any problem with 11psi boost


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

there is a dizzy vr lugtronic setup for sale somewhere in the classifieds..
just sayin


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

Anyone have a set of stock AFP (mk4 12v) injectors lying around that they'd be willing to part with for a nominal fee?


----------



## Karoliz (Nov 3, 2006)

Hello,

Can anybody tell me please the thickness of this Vortech v9 smaller bracket (I marked the measurement I need on the picture)? I do have the main bracket, but the small one is missing, so I need to fabricate it myself...

Thanks a lot guys!


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

If you need one, we have a spare floating around the shop :beer:


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

Some Videos of pulley machining :laugh:

Hope everyone enjoys!


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

so been having some trouble with my car recently it makes a wierd sound when i let off the throttle, have a short video for you guys
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ5RKY6PxU8
:laugh:


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

shazzam said:


> so been having some trouble with my car recently it makes a wierd sound when i let off the throttle, have a short video for you guys
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ5RKY6PxU8
> :laugh:


:thumbup:


----------



## slimvdub (Apr 8, 2004)

slimvdub said:


> All done and now running great at a pretty steady 8psi
> 
> V1 Charger not sure what pulley dual Idler set up c2 tune 30# injectors 4" MAF bosch n710 dv. All couplers from http://www.siliconeintakes.com/ upper intake tube from a dodge truck turbo diesel. Oil feed and return lines sourced from summit racing. All parts sourced and installed In 1 month not to shabby I think. But now I want more boost.


So I installed a new boost gauge and I am only seeing 4.5 to 5 psi not the 8psi I thought. So I think I have an AMS pulley and AMS chip not the c2 that I thought. So do you think I will see much gains from a smaller pulley and c2 tune? Worth my while


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

Hey fellas I just entered the world of a blown vr6 however I'm having issues. It ran fine for about three days and all of a sudden I start it up and it's running like isht like its running out of fuel. Mind you I'm running a stock auto tech q chip and I'm thinking this could be the problem?????? It idles fine. I have the v9 stage 1. It is a possibility that my Maf is backwards, and what kind of issues will I have running boost with a stock q chip?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

g6raddo said:


> Hey fellas I just entered the world of a blown vr6 however I'm having issues. It ran fine for about three days and all of a sudden I start it up and it's running like isht like its running out of fuel. Mind you I'm running a stock auto tech q chip and I'm thinking this could be the problem?????? It idles fine. I have the v9 stage 1. It is a possibility that my Maf is backwards, and what kind of issues will I have running boost with a stock q chip?


You need the correct chip for the setup. A Stage I VF GIAC chip is what you will need for the setup. Once you get that get back to us on how it runs. :thumbup:


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

Ok thanks I'm on it


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

slimvdub said:


> So I installed a new boost gauge and I am only seeing 4.5 to 5 psi not the 8psi I thought. So I think I have an AMS pulley and AMS chip not the c2 that I thought. So do you think I will see much gains from a smaller pulley and c2 tune? Worth my while



I would start by mearsuring that pulley. Its possible you may have a boost leak also, but a smaller pulley will be more fun without a doubt. 
The C2 chip may be worth while if you plan on seeing more boost. It does seem to do a good job of keeping A/F at a safer level. Do you have a wideband hooked up yet? It's a worthwhile investment for diag and protection.

And I have a 3.12" pulley For Sale if your interested...


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

Anyone have part numbers to rebuild the V9 seals, bearings, ect?????


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

try superchargerrebuild.com

full kits available too


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

having a small issue, car was running before but had a water leak from the tstat housing so i fixed that, now the car wont start getting throttle body position codes now, swapped out with another throttle body and made no difference, help please! thanks


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

Did you disconnect the battery


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

shazzam said:


> having a small issue, car was running before but had a water leak from the tstat housing so i fixed that, now the car wont start getting throttle body position codes now, swapped out with another throttle body and made no difference, help please! thanks


Try doing a throttle body alignment with VAG-COM. Block 060

:thumbup:


----------



## ATLVR6 (Nov 20, 2003)

What's up everyone! Just wanted to introduce myself to the group. I have been lurking on this thread for a while for tips on setups and common issues for superchargers and it has helped me immensely! Thanks to all that have put in a lot of time and effort into getting the most out of their supercharged VRs.

So here is my current setup:

mk2 GTI
C2 9:1 spacer
reworked head (mild port/polish, 3 angle valve job)
262 cams
vortech V2 (stage 2 pulley); seeing approx 12psi
TT full exhaust with high flow cat
custom UM chip

This setup put down 257whp on the Mustang dyno. Still working out some kinks with the chip, but all in all, it working pretty good.

Future plans:

Cogged setup
standalone engine mgmt (maybe...)


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

ATLVR6 said:


> What's up everyone! Just wanted to introduce myself to the group. I have been lurking on this thread for a while for tips on setups and common issues for superchargers and it has helped me immensely! Thanks to all that have put in a lot of time and effort into getting the most out of their supercharged VRs.
> 
> So here is my current setup:
> 
> ...


Welcome, its always good to hear from fellow members!


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

slight update; 
I traded/sold my GLX for a clean mk2 jetta coupe that's getting a 16v turbo :screwy:

wanted a jetta coupe since day one, and dont have room for both :thumbdown:


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

Can anyone(Adrian) tell me I'd OBD1 dizzy tuning will work for coilpack?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

Banana.Phone said:


> Can anyone(Adrian) tell me I'd OBD1 dizzy tuning will work for coilpack?


It will not.


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

Didn't think so. Thank you!!


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Banana.Phone said:


> Didn't think so. Thank you!!


That's why I pointed it out to you


----------



## Bluegrape2 (Mar 3, 2012)

Just wanted to share some numbers that my friends car put down"

1992 SLC
AMS Set up w/ V1 Charger-non IC
EIP FMU stock Inj
Audi TT DV
EIP Chip
11PSI

~278Whp on NGP DynoJet

Upgraded to C2 36lbs Inj and C2 Chip

~Car made 276 on a warmer day and drove much better obviously.. Way better part throttle and gas mileage.. Pretty simple awesome set-up sounds super cool , he just upgraded to a 15psi pulley and we ran door to door with a new Mustang GT 5.0 (impressed with the GT, way faster then old 4.6 V8 Model) even pulled on him after 120MPH...I would say he is making near 300whp and maxing the inj out. 

Craziest part to me is the kit can come on and off in 1.5 hours , stock CR, Just adds a lil race gas to his huge corrado gas tank and no problems with detonation or pinging. Have put about 20K on this set up.. :beer:


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

i would be impressed with the mustang too....i would have thought he corrado would have walked the mustang


----------



## Bluegrape2 (Mar 3, 2012)

considering they have 420 hp from factory and it sounded like it had bolt-ons I was pretty impressed. the new ones are not like the old ones at all. New ones have pretty impressive top-end pull. Rated at around 411-420 crank and many have proven to be underrated from factory..do some reading you will see what I'm saying.:beer:


----------



## Bluegrape2 (Mar 3, 2012)

dmoe said:


> i would be impressed with the mustang too....i would have thought he corrado would have walked the mustang


And like I said we were pulling top-end , not bad for two pass in raddo and one meat head in mustang!!!


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

Bluegrape2 said:


> Just wanted to share some numbers that my friends car put down"
> 
> 1992 SLC
> AMS Set up w/ V1 Charger-non IC
> ...


That is awesome!!

Any chance you can post some pics of your friends setup?

Sent from my T-Mobile myTouch using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Bluegrape2 (Mar 3, 2012)

yup next time I go to his shop I will get some pics. very basic set up.not pretty by any means.:beer:


----------



## big_vw_ash (Jun 13, 2012)

hey guys, wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction. Basicly i need a new air intake pipe (ideally aluminium) for my vf v-9 charger i have on my mk3 golf?

this one


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

big_vw_ash said:


> hey guys, wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction. Basicly i need a new air intake pipe (ideally aluminium) for my vf v-9 charger i have on my mk3 golf?


Whats wrong with the current one?


----------



## big_vw_ash (Jun 13, 2012)

MeCarTay said:


> Whats wrong with the current one?


 it is warped from the heat and being over tightened so i can't use it any more as i cant get a proper seal on it and is causing me fueling issues so need to find a new one


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

big_vw_ash said:


> it is warped from the heat and being over tightened so i can't use it any more as i cant get a proper seal on it and is causing me fueling issues so need to find a new one


 Oh geez, that's no good... 

1) An off the shelf alternative to the VF inlet doesn't exist. I know they have (or had) replacement components in stock. Often times you'll pay a hefty price, but that is always an option if you don't have the means or motivation to make your own. 

Its odd that yours ended up warped.. I've actually never seen that happen. :sly: 

2) Your easiest option would be to source the couplers, and make your own inlet. The center section (post MAF) where the diverter valve and catch can route back to can be made out of aluminum or stainless. A few people on here have made their own ABS versions, but something machined with weld on fittings for the returns would be the most ideal. 

Here's a few pictures to give you an idea:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

IMO, i'd take the time and route it elsewhere. 
sucking up water is crappy


----------



## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Some Videos of pulley machining :laugh:
> 
> Hope everyone enjoys!


 Okuma lathe and Hitachi Seiki VMC?


----------



## big_vw_ash (Jun 13, 2012)

prometheus_ said:


> IMO, i'd take the time and route it elsewhere.
> sucking up water is crappy


 ye thats the plan when i find another mk3 shell thats mint i'll have all the pipework re routed. i heated up the original intake pipe 2day and put it back in shape so is running perfect again now so i'll start looking at having an aluminium pipe made up soon


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

MeCarTay said:


>


 What are the 2 pieces coming off? 



prometheus_ said:


> IMO, i'd take the time and route it elsewhere.
> sucking up water is crappy


 There aren't many options if you're running a euro bumper and a shaved bay


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

You could run it the way I had it, maybe get some heat wrap for the portion running over exhaust. 
Or do what others have done and run it all the way under the front of the car. 
Or spend those dollars on lugtronic


----------



## MeCarTay (Mar 15, 2004)

Banana.Phone said:


> What are the 2 pieces coming off?


 Returns for the DVs 




prometheus_ said:


> Or spend those dollars on lugtronic


 ^ This


----------



## silverjettin (Jan 16, 2002)

some quick questions for you v9 guys.. 
I just picked up a v9 kit for my obd2 vr and was wondering if its possible to run it w/o the diverter valve and the intake tubing below (I'm not a big fan or rerouting stuff in the fender well) 









If I can find a k&n to fit directly on the scer intake and just plumb the maf right into the intake elbow, will I have any drivability issues? 
Im assuming vfs software is written for pre scer maf...anyone run post scer maf software w the v9? 

would I be losing hp and throttle response if i ran the v9 like my old zkit below and a custom tune? 
I was leaning towards a custom tune anyways bc of a deleted o2 and sai 









also, po didnt provide the t fitting that taps into the oil filter housing..any idea where to find a cheap one and what size is the tread? 

thanks in advance


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

I'm wondering this as well any simplicity is in good favor if it works properly!


----------



## KCISRViTG10 (Sep 8, 2010)

Hey guys, looking for some suggestions/ideas. 

I have a AFP, 264/260 cam, V9 supercharged with a 4" maf and short runner intake, adjustable fpr and United tune. Since I finished the install, I've been having an idle problem. It will surge up and down and won't level out. 

What Ive tried: 

-Vagcom throttle body adaptation 
-Cleaned maf sensor 
-Checked for boost leak 
-Checked for vacuum leak 
-Tried adjusting fuel pressure (any opinions where it should be? I have it at 35psi) 

One thought I had was the re-wiring for the maf sensor. Would it be possible that that signal is be iterupted due to the lengthened harness? 

Any help appreciated. Thanks. 

:thumbup::beer:


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

^ do you have a wide band hooked up? And did you check for all post MAf leaks. I Usually take the air filter off and block it off and smoke the whole intake. 
This was a big issue with my setup that if you drove enough it would learn and adapt enough to work but if you cleared the codes or disconnected the battery it would run like garbage for a couple days.


----------



## KCISRViTG10 (Sep 8, 2010)

^No wideband. I Will Check for any post MAF leaks... It's been driving me nuts. Thanks for the suggestion. 

:thumbup::beer:


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

source for 7 rib pulleys?
I have a V1, it has a light blue pulley that measures 2.87. I have no idea who made it, the sc kit was put together by a previous owner. Its a 7 rib pulley but its getting pretty worn and i would like to replace it with a new one. It looks like nobody makes 7 rib pulleys for vortechs now.
I may go larger on the pulley because I think 2.87 should be making over 10 psi on a V1 but i never see above 8 psi. i dont want to run much over 10. 
Is running an 8 rib my best bet?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

2.87/2.9 is the size to run.
You should be making more boost than that, and your problem is likely belt slippage.

IIRC most folks run a 6-rib pulley nowadays


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

cool, I may stick with the 2.87 size. it seems to me a 6 rib would slip more than a 7. is my logic off?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

naysayers said:


> cool, I may stick with the 2.87 size. it seems to me a 6 rib would slip more than a 7. is my logic off?


A six will slip a good deal more then a seven rib. 

The reason six ribs are more popular is because people can't seem to dial in their alignment for some reason  Typically you'll see a seven rib pulley with what used to be a seven rib belt (one rib torn off). With a poor alignment or tweaked brackets the serpentine pulley will tear the seventh rib off.


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> A six will slip a good deal more then a seven rib.
> 
> The reason six ribs are more popular is because people can't seem to dial in their alignment for some reason  Typically you'll see a seven rib pulley with what used to be a seven rib belt (one rib torn off). With a poor alignment or tweaked brackets the serpentine pulley will tear the seventh rib off.


When I got this car I noticed that it had a 6 rib belt on it. I put a 7 rib belt on it and I saw that at high rpm the belt would jump over a tooth. I ended up putting spacers on the two idlers so that the belt was centered on them and that solved it. 
I really hate to run an 8 rib pulley with a 7 rib belt. Seems like a bandaid. What would be nice is if somebody was to make an 8 rib setup for a Vr. Crank and alternator at least. 
Another way to do may be to machine the lip off one side of the crank and alternator pulleys so the an 8 rib belt would ride on 7 grooves and one rib would hang off. I may give it a shot.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

naysayers said:


> When I got this car I noticed that it had a 6 rib belt on it. I put a 7 rib belt on it and I saw that at high rpm the belt would jump over a tooth. I ended up putting spacers on the two idlers so that the belt was centered on them and that solved it.
> I really hate to run an 8 rib pulley with a 7 rib belt. Seems like a bandaid. What would be nice is if somebody was to make an 8 rib setup for a Vr. Crank and alternator at least.
> Another way to do may be to machine the lip off one side of the crank and alternator pulleys so the an 8 rib belt would ride on 7 grooves and one rib would hang off. I may give it a shot.


Are you getting slip currently? If the pulley is worn I suggest pulling it off, having it sand or media blasted with fine media. If the pulley has any burrs remove them with an angled file. Then bring it to your local plater and have it hard-coat anodized. This will essentially restore the pulley to a more resistant surface and if your blower is aligned will keep you from tearing through belts. 

If your pulley is too far gone, we do make them upon request. Typically its more for cars we're building, but you _can_ get one if push comes to shove. There's no reason why you can't run 10psi without slip.


----------



## silverjettin (Jan 16, 2002)

[email protected] said:


> You need the correct chip for the setup. A Stage I VF GIAC chip is what you will need for the setup. Once you get that get back to us on how it runs. :thumbup:


I got one for sale if anyone needs..$125


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

Details on this chip?


----------



## silverjettin (Jan 16, 2002)

Banana.Phone said:


> Details on this chip?


its a Stage I VF GIAC chip ,,good for under 7lbs sced with stock injectors..$125 shipped
obd2 vr6


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

Ah ok thanks. Won't work for me. 


Is Lugtronics (or standalone) my only option for tuning for running no MAF?
2.87 pulley, obd2, meth injection and hopefully some cams.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

You can make 300whp with what you got. But yes, sem is about your only option for mafless. Just keep in mind how your state inspection works bc you won't have obd port scanning capabilities.

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

we're in canada 
chris, just do what i did for the last one :laugh:


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

prometheus_ said:


> we're in canada
> chris, just do what i did for the last one :laugh:


Shaved bay/wire tuck doe. Trying to keep everything as tidy as possible.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Banana.Phone said:


> Shaved bay/wire tuck doe. Trying to keep everything as tidy as possible.


i meant in regard to the etest


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

prometheus_ said:


> i meant in regard to the etest


Ohhhhhhh. Hahha right


----------



## 1999MK3 (Apr 25, 2010)

subscribed:thumbup:


----------



## ZWStewart (Mar 27, 2002)

*maf*

Can anyone confirm that the honeycomb air straighteners solve C2's irractic afr and idle?

http://www.saxonpc.com/100mm-cells-for-100.html


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

I wanted to try that last year too.


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

hey guys,
im planning on buying a used AMS kit with a v1 charger stage 1 kit is running at 8psi, AMS software, with dual idler pully setup currently.

*but i do have a few questions,
i need a belt i still have PS i deleted my A/C- what size do i need? and where can i buy it?*

in the future i want to do stage 2 and currently my engine consists of:
giac n/a chip
port polished head
268 cams
ported intake (2.9)
ported ex. manis
2.5 highflow cat
2.5 pipeing

*i know im going to need C2/UM software, #30or#36 injectors, 4"maf pre charger, and 2.75 pully? someone please correct me if im wrong.* 

can anyone please help me out


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

Seems like you're well on your way to me.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Don't bother with the 2.75 pulley.

Unless someone can tell you what size, the best option to find out what belt you need is to mount everything up and measure with some string. You really shouldnt have to order something specific.
I used a couple different length belts and they were all on hand at my local stores. Mine was a single idler setup, so don't even ask


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

prometheus_ said:


> Don't bother with the 2.75 pulley.
> 
> Unless someone can tell you what size, the best option to find out what belt you need is to mount everything up and measure with some string. You really shouldnt have to order something specific.
> I used a couple different length belts and they were all on hand at my local stores. Mine was a single idler setup, so don't even ask


thanks!
and yep i guess ill measure once everything is bolted up (if someone has used dual idler setup with no A/C please chime in with any info)


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

lets say i wanted to be around the 280-300 mark, 

should i use 30# injectors and software or 42#


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

you'd better be on standalone, have some cams, and 10:1 comp if you want to hit that with 30#


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

yeh ill just get the 42's


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

catalina2.o said:


> lets say i wanted to be around the 280-300 mark,
> 
> should i use 30# injectors and software or 42#


You are really at the mercy of what chips are available. Or you do standalone.


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

If I have the c2 30# chip and injectors, im assuming I can push 10 lbs of boost! Is this correct?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

g6raddo said:


> If I have the c2 30# chip and injectors, im assuming I can push 10 lbs of boost! Is this correct?



10psi and cams can be done on 30# injectors. 12psi and cams will require stepping up to 36# or 42# if your sticking with the off the shelf options.


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> 10psi and cams can be done on 30# injectors. 12psi and cams will require stepping up to 36# or 42# if your sticking with the off the shelf options.


Cool thanks another question I have is what is the oil line coming from the "t" fitting on the motor side of the charger and it goes to the tapped hole on the fender side? Mine is a steel braided line and its about 12" in length! I'm thinking about taking this off because I'm leaking oil all over the place and I can't find a reason why it's there. Maybe you guys can let me know it's function


















Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

g6raddo said:


> Cool thanks another question I have is what is the oil line coming from the "t" fitting on the motor side of the charger and it goes to the tapped hole on the fender side? Mine is a steel braided line and its about 12" in length! I'm thinking about taking this off because I'm leaking oil all over the place and I can't find a reason why it's there. Maybe you guys can let me know it's function
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The V9's have a "Air Assist oil push" which helps push the oil through the charger. It sounds like the two copper crush washers on the engine side of the the hose where it bolts into the gearbox housing need replacement. You can size them up and get them from summit or from Vortech directly.


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

g6raddo said:


> Cool thanks another question I have is what is the oil line coming from the "t" fitting on the motor side of the charger and it goes to the tapped hole on the fender side? Mine is a steel braided line and its about 12" in length! I'm thinking about taking this off because I'm leaking oil all over the place and I can't find a reason why it's there. Maybe you guys can let me know it's function
> 
> 
> 
> ...


the one closest to the engine is your oil feed line feeding oil from your engine to lubricate the charger and the one closest to the fender is ur oil drain that taps into your block or pan.. if you take these off you will blow the charger u need these!

what i recommend doing is taking the lines off and putting some new teflon tape on the threads or replacing those lines


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

g6raddo said:


>


The ~1.5" brass section that the braided line goes into is a check valve. As catalina2.o said, you can take it apart and redo with teflon tape. Make sure that you leave 2-3 of the starting threads not covered so that the teflon does not end up in the charger.


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

Ok I know what the oil feed and return lines are. This is neither! It's just a line that goes from the oil feed line to the exhaust side of the charger where the charge pipe is connected. And I'm not leaking oil pass the crush washers. I'm leaking oil out the intake filter. And this could be a major factor to the problem. I just need to know if it's possible to take this off without harming the charger. I really see no need for this being it just dumps oil in the charge pipe and directly into the motor and in turn gets burned.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

g6raddo said:


> Ok I know what the oil feed and return lines are. This is neither! It's just a line that goes from the oil feed line to the exhaust side of the charger where the charge pipe is connected. And I'm not leaking oil pass the crush washers. I'm leaking oil out the intake filter. And this could be a major factor to the problem. I just need to know if it's possible to take this off without harming the charger. I really see no need for this being it just dumps oil in the charge pipe and directly into the motor and in turn gets burned.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


As Noah said this is a line for the oil assist. This line isn't causing your oil leak either.

If you're leaking oil out of the inlet, then your charger is in need of a reseal. Long term exposure to oil will also kill the MAF, so get the seals sorted out asap.


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

Ok cool thanks



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## vortexpert. (Sep 27, 2009)

:thumbup:


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

Does any I ne else have a problem with the bolt holding the pully on the charger hitting the feul rail?:banghead:

Ams kit
3.12 pully


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

Its a known problem depending on belt length and tension as well as a bunch of other factors. Easiest solution is to gently bend the offending portion of fuel rail. Be careful not to kink the feed or return. Done
correctly it will be fine for miles to come.


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

Not at all. You sure it's tight? Lol


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

Can someone tell me is I need stock injectors or 30# to run the ams kit stage 1?

I know it brings the chip


----------



## Canananada3456 (May 27, 2007)

catalina2.o said:


> Can someone tell me is I need stock injectors or 30# to run the ams kit stage 1?
> 
> I know it brings the chip


Stock

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

So today I took my car out for a spin and its an ams stage 1 stock inectors and maf with 3.12 pully and it felt like I didnt even have a charger. Idk wats going on. The belts tight with dual idler but the car just feels soo slow and i can only feel the charger produceing some power after like 5,000 rpm

is this normal?:screwy:


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

You can not run a V1 on stock injectors and stock software. I suggest doing some learning about forced induction setups before you blow up your engine.


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

Scooter98144 said:


> You can not run a V1 on stock injectors and stock software. I suggest doing some learning about forced induction setups before you blow up your engine.


thats what the kit says,
its a AMS stage 1 kit
stock maf
Stock injectors 
power prom chip


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

Yea I ran a v1 on stock injectors and a na GIAC chip for months and it ran pretty good! However it ran a thousand times better when I installed 30# chip and injectors 
Wait a minute it was a v9 my bad!


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

well, i decided to finally get a 3in exhaust. didnt wanna spend $500 for just a catback + more to get an adapter made and "test" pipe so i've been doing everything myself. ordered everything from summit. The adapter bolts directly to the tectonics downpipe (has a 2.5in flange) and then to a 2.5in-3in "reducer". the welds are the prettiest, but are VERY strong and leak free. right now it just has a small dynomax muffler (2nd picture) and the dump is right before the gas tank. performance wise, top end really opened up..a lot, lost a little midrange torque though. This thing is LOUD!  i was going to just leave it like this, but its just too loud. i mean, i like loud cars, but driving this thing makes your head want to explode, so i will be making a full exhaust all the way to the rear bumper with flowermaster muffler and a turndown (hopefully this will get back a little of the midrange it lost)


----------



## VW_Sporting (Aug 27, 2003)

Has anyone dynoed a car with Schrick VGI and Supercharger?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

There's been a couple, though I've only got a dyno gleaned from this thread or something waaaay back. No idea what psi was being run, but it had 248 cams, vgi, and a V2 










AFAIK, to *really* use that VGI you've got to have cams and a tune specifically for the thing :thumbup:


----------



## VW_Sporting (Aug 27, 2003)

Found another old graph. 
Blue is SC and Schrick. 
It looks like it doesn't work with each other at all.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

chances are that most dont realize you can change when the flapper moves


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

prometheus_ said:


> chances are that most dont realize you can change when the flapper moves


 That's what I was thinking. We're gonna play with the rpm switchover points for the flapper when I dyno my car next month.

Sent from my T-Mobile myTouch using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Bouhlee (Nov 27, 2011)

It is possible to fit a CW supercharger ( vortech V1 ) on a vr6 24v ? If not it is possible to change the cover and the wheel to run in CCW configuration ?



Thx


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

Bouhlee said:


> It is possible to fit a CW supercharger ( vortech V1 ) on a vr6 24v ? If not it is possible to change the cover and the wheel to run in CCW configuration ?
> 
> 
> Thx


 
Not easy, you would need to get new gears and impeller, then re-shim to ensure bearing preload is correct, then shim the new impeller to mach the volute. Cheaper and easier to just buy a CCW charger :thumbup:




VW_Sporting said:


> Found another old graph.
> Blue is SC and Schrick.
> It looks like it doesn't work with each other at all.


 Dang, that is an old find Dominic! Dan was running a Z-Engineering charger. Only to be smoked by Morgans chipped 1.8t lol.


----------



## Bouhlee (Nov 27, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> Not easy, you would need to get new gears and impeller, then re-shim to ensure bearing preload is correct, then shim the new impeller to mach the volute. Cheaper and easier to just buy a CCW charger :thumbup:


 Thx


----------



## ZWStewart (Mar 27, 2002)

*idler*

:wave: 
Where can I get a replacement idler pulley for a c2 kit?


----------



## ATLVR6 (Nov 20, 2003)

Seriously thinking about the cogged setup from Verdict. I have power steering, any issues with that?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

ATLVR6 said:


> Seriously thinking about the cogged setup from Verdict. I have power steering, any issues with that?


 
No problems :thumbup:


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

BlackSwan said:


> That's what I was thinking. We're gonna play with the rpm switchover points for the flapper when I dyno my car next month.


 Please give some updates on the progress made with that. I have a schrick intake and have been deciding whether its worth keeping or not. 

Anyone else with any insight on a V1 with the schrick obd2 intake manifold?


----------



## dubmanvr (Oct 1, 2010)

*v1*

hello please forgive me im fairly new with forums not sure how to load pics from my phone maybe someone can help me out lol but anyway i have a 97 gti vr6 that i pieced together a supercharger kit. i will list all mods. 
1. ams mounting hardware with dual idler an a verdict motorsports support bracket
2. v1 i rebuilt with 62k bearings and 928 motorsports billit impeller custom 2.5 inch pulley 
3. old school eip horizontal mount intercooler with a vortech maxflow diverter and a custom made 3.5 inch intake that stretches over to the drivers fender well 
4. 4in maf housing with united motorsports 42lb file and green top injectors 
5. dual walboro in tank pumps dual filters 5/8 fuel line to stock rail and 4bar fpr
6. custom ported and hogged upper and lower intake mani's ported stock exhaust mani's hooked to a tt downpipe 3 inch custom made exhaust with a small tube reaonator and flowmaster super 40
7. autotech 262 cams lw followers and hd springs ported head with 3 angle valve job arp head studs 9 to 1 head spacer stock bottom end with arp connecting rod hardware and main hardware 13 lb flywheel 
8. snow performance stage 2 water meth post tb injection 375ml nozzle, wot box
9. 7pk 1270 belt no ac or power steering 
i think thats about it for power mods. i have not had the vehicle dynoed yet or had at the track sorry it is on my priority list this yr last year was a build and debug phase. the vehicle pulls strong and i havnt noticed belt slip at 7200 rpm my cheap ass boost guage shows 16psi consitantly and my g dyno puts down consistant 405 whp numbers with mid 11 sec runs. im sure this number is a little shy of the actual numbers but the time numbers i know are close because i have left a few 600's sucking fuel from tail pipe


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

dubmanvr said:


> hello please forgive me im fairly new with forums not sure how to load pics from my phone maybe someone can help me out lol but anyway i have a 97 gti vr6 that i pieced together a supercharger kit. i will list all mods.
> 1. ams mounting hardware with dual idler an a verdict motorsports support bracket
> 2. v1 i rebuilt with 62k bearings and 928 motorsports billit impeller custom 2.5 inch pulley
> 3. old school eip horizontal mount intercooler with a vortech maxflow diverter and a custom made 3.5 inch intake that stretches over to the drivers fender well
> ...


sounds like a nice setup what software are you on? and injectors?


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

heres a few pics so far of my custom piping thats been keeping me busy.. im currently gathering the last amount of parts and sending things out to get polished..


----------



## dubmanvr (Oct 1, 2010)

i am using united motorsports 42lb chip and boshce 42lb green top injectors


----------



## vampvr (Apr 13, 2010)

Hi, im running with a V9 at 6lb with 415cc genesis injectors, no cat, and 3" magnaflow exhaust, i previosly had a software for n/a and never changed it, the car runs really great(faster than a jetta gli 1.8t with 3" exhaust, chip and other stuff), i want to change my pulley to get 11.5lbs, do you recomend to retune the ecu?


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

vampvr said:


> Hi, im running with a V9 at 6lb with 415cc genesis injectors, no cat, and 3" magnaflow exhaust, i previosly had a software for n/a and never changed it, the car runs really great(faster than a jetta gli 1.8t with 3" exhaust, chip and other stuff), i want to change my pulley to get 11.5lbs, do you recomend to retune the ecu?


you should already be running a different tune....so yes, get a tune either way


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

catalina2.o said:


> heres a few pics so far of my custom piping thats been keeping me busy.. im currently gathering the last amount of parts and sending things out to get polished..


Looks amazing!!


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

ZWStewart said:


> :wave:
> Where can I get a replacement idler pulley for a c2 kit?


the larger idler is a vortech part. The bearings can be replaced in this one. Not sure on the part number of the vortech pulley or the bearings but it should not be hard to figure out.
The smaller idler is a vw timing belt roller bearing. I think you can use a 1.8T or a TDI roller bearing here.


----------



## ZWStewart (Mar 27, 2002)

naysayers said:


> the larger idler is a vortech part. The bearings can be replaced in this one. Not sure on the part number of the vortech pulley or the bearings but it should not be hard to figure out.
> The smaller idler is a vw timing belt roller bearing. I think you can use a 1.8T or a TDI roller bearing here.


Thanks!

Here is the one I have, and will be replacing. Voirtech Part# 4FK116-021


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

put in some work last night and finished up all the mechanical stuff 
now just gotta wire up the gauges.. then start the car and check if there are no leaks and all pulleys are all lined up etc.

finished these!
















then mounted up the blower and installed bkr7e spark plugs
































Excuse all the dirtiness








oh hey my broke headlight plug in all its gloryy

































and by that time i passs out on my kitchen floor from so much exhaustion.. i was so tired i couldnt feel my legs anymore. but hope u all enjoy :wave::thumbup::beer:


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

looks great :thumbup:


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

prometheus_ said:


> looks great :thumbup:


thanks man


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

Getting ready start putting my car together. I have a schrick intake but I'm debating on using it with the V1. Anyone have any insight on this?


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

Banana.Phone said:


> Getting ready start putting my car together. I have a schrick intake but I'm debating on using it with the V1. Anyone have any insight on this?


i heard running a schrick with a charger is pointless and will only rob you hp


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

he's also running standalone..
ARENT YOU CHRIS


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

Still yet to decide on that. I think I'm just going to run C2. Some unexpected costs have come up


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

Ive been waiting on UNITED MOTORSPORTS for about 4-5 weeks now for a chip, they first told me they just went out of stock the day before and they would order more.. 

i call 2 WEEKS later and they tell me to call back in another 2 WEEKS
so i call back again on monday they tell me they have one in a car that they will sell me for me to call back Today.:sly:

So i call back today now all of a sudden that wont work i have to wait another week! :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: thats how i feel right now..


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

Banana.Phone said:


> Getting ready start putting my car together. I have a schrick intake but I'm debating on using it with the V1. Anyone have any insight on this?


The schrick VGI isnt meant for a boosted application. yes its true, if you have stand alone management a specific tune can be built to work with the VGI changeover point or even help you take advantage of it. 

The real problem is the flap in side of the manifold. The flap itself and its pivot axle can fail while under too much stress. I have seen it happen on a NA VR5. it isnt pretty. unless you enjoy repairing engines with particle injection damage.


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

scirockin16v said:


> The schrick VGI isnt meant for a boosted application. yes its true, if you have stand alone management a specific tune can be built to work with the VGI changeover point or even help you take advantage of it.
> 
> The real problem is the flap in side of the manifold. The flap itself and its pivot axle can fail while under too much stress. I have seen it happen on a NA VR5. it isnt pretty. unless you enjoy repairing engines with particle injection damage.


That's all I needed to hear. Thank you!


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

so who is going to SOWO?


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

anyone using the #42 software from C2 on their supercharged vr's?


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

catalina2.o said:


> anyone using the #42 software from C2 on their supercharged vr's?


thats what i just got put on my car, i have to say i hate c2 with a passion now. the first tune the put on it for the super charger it made my car stop running all together, that was in october, i will be getting the car back in 3 weeks with the 5th tune they have done for it since then and hopefully everything will be ok. ill let you know more as the bs continues

(ps some of this timeline is due to other stuff being done like a new body parts being mounted and painted as well as shaving here and there)


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

oh ok i got one of their chips on the way to me for cheap untill UM decides to call me back ughh

i need to get my car back on the road so i had to get a c2 one temporarily


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

catalina2.o said:


> oh ok i got one of their chips on the way to me for cheap untill UM decides to call me back ughh
> 
> i need to get my car back on the road so i had to get a c2 one temporarily


yeah i wished id gone with um, ever since c2 switched their tuning programming they have been a nightmare, i had to ship them my ecu with a na tune from them from 3 years ago to them so they could unlock it, wipe it and send it back with a tune that had no immobilzer in it so the car didnt run, they ended up sending me another ecu which didnt work either, took my 1st one to vw and they wiped it and we got the car running again and then got like 4-5 more tunes from them it sucks. but i wish you luck!


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

shazzam said:


> yeah i wished id gone with um, ever since c2 switched their tuning programming they have been a nightmare, i had to ship them my ecu with a na tune from them from 3 years ago to them so they could unlock it, wipe it and send it back with a tune that had no immobilzer in it so the car didnt run, they ended up sending me another ecu which didnt work either, took my 1st one to vw and they wiped it and we got the car running again and then got like 4-5 more tunes from them it sucks. but i wish you luck!


ouch yeh that sounds like a headache lol but hopefully mine wont be that bad, you have a mk4 with immobilizer mine is just a chip that i can install myself so i dont have to send them my ecu or deal with immobilizer issues they told me theyll ship it today so well see how it goes i report back with some feedback as soon as i test it on the car


----------



## VW_Sporting (Aug 27, 2003)

I have used several C2 chips and never had a single problem. N/A, 30#, 42#, 630 24V.


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

VW_Sporting said:


> I have used several C2 chips and never had a single problem. N/A, 30#, 42#, 630 24V.


I'm jealous, had no problem with the n/a tune, but its been hell this last time


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

I was running c2 #42 with 440 cc injectors.....ran great....still wanted to go lugtronic tho


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

scirockin16v said:


> The schrick VGI isnt meant for a boosted application. yes its true, if you have stand alone management a specific tune can be built to work with the VGI changeover point or even help you take advantage of it.
> 
> The real problem is the flap in side of the manifold. The flap itself and its pivot axle can fail while under too much stress. I have seen it happen on a NA VR5. it isnt pretty. unless you enjoy repairing engines with particle injection damage.


I took the flap out of mine and it works pretty well. Top end pulls pretty hard!


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

Just curious, what are people running to prevent pulling water in through the filter?


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

ok so i just recieved my c2 42# supercharged software

first impressions on the c2 chip.. i video taped everything just incase c2 said i did something wrong.. so i can have proof of what i did. I opened up ecu and pulled my giac chip out.. correctly installed my c2 FI chip and sealed up ecu.. installed ecu and connected battery terminal.. then i turned the key to accessory mode and let the car adapt the TB for a few minutes.. then i started up the car.. and let it warm up for a few

this is were it gets interesting.. car is idling alone around 14.5 - 15.5 a/f ratio
then I tap the throttle it goes to like to 10.5 which is super rich then 17.4 then back to 15 then to 13 then to 15.5 then back to 16 or 17 then back to 12 (BASICALLY its all over the place?) what the hell is going on.. 

has this ever happened to anyone?


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

Welcome to C2 tuning software. Mine does some of those same things. How the car runs will depend on what time of the day it is it seems. Well good luck with it.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

The ECU takes a few days to adjust in learned your driving style so that it runs right 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

catalina2.o said:


> this is were it gets interesting.. car is idling alone around 14.5 - 15.5 a/f ratio
> then I tap the throttle it goes to like to 10.5 which is super rich then 17.4 then back to 15 then to 13 then to 15.5 then back to 16 or 17 then back to 12 (BASICALLY its all over the place?) what the hell is going on..
> 
> has this ever happened to anyone?


Well documented for years. You will want to get those air fuels under control or you will be re-ringing your engine in a short period of time. 

 I feel your pain, I lost one of my engines to that issue with the C2 chip.


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

Well just installed my Um chip and now they both go super lean at idle like 17-18 but once I tap the gas it will stay at 15 but slowly will go back to 17-18 ughhh I dont want to drive the car like this


----------



## dmoe (Oct 29, 2003)

catalina2.o said:


> Well just installed my Um chip and now they both go super lean at idle like 17-18 but once I tap the gas it will stay at 15 but slowly will go back to 17-18 ughhh I dont want to drive the car like this


Lugtronics.....no headaches.


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

Got a question!!! I'm running a v9 vortech with 30# software and injectors. Car has been progressively running sluggish and sometimes dies, I was thinking, because my maf is so close to my charger it's causing turbulence through the maf and sending mixed readings to the ecu!!!! Well I moved the maf farther away and still no change. Now when I remove the air filter from the maf the car runs like a top. So at this point I narrowed it down to the filter. I changed the filter to a new one and nothing! So why is it that the car will run without a filter and not with one??? I tried changing the maf thinking that this could be the problem, nope! Still running badly.. Any other suggestions????


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

g6raddo said:


> Got a question!!! I'm running a v9 vortech with 30# software and injectors. Car has been progressively running sluggish and sometimes dies, I was thinking, because my maf is so close to my charger it's causing turbulence through the maf and sending mixed readings to the ecu!!!! Well I moved the maf farther away and still no change. Now when I remove the air filter from the maf the car runs like a top. So at this point I narrowed it down to the filter. I changed the filter to a new one and nothing! So why is it that the car will run without a filter and not with one??? I tried changing the maf thinking that this could be the problem, nope! Still running badly.. Any other suggestions????


whats the distance between the maf and v9? i remember reading somewhere you have to have atleast 53mm(?) (can some else confirm this aswell?) if you have the car running can you put the filter on and sense a difference at idle then remove it again and the car goes back to running good?


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

well it was too late to post last night but me and my buddy vag com'd the car and seems as if the front o2 took a crap and wasnt giving me any feed back so hopefully thats why my car was running like crapola hopefully i install a new one today and its back to 100%


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

It's about 2' from the charger I managed to stuff it in between the bumper rebar and bumper could it be too far?


Sent from the past!!


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

I have 5-6ft from charger to may on the wifes cabriolet an its awesome


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

5-6'?????? Really? Wow that's some distance!


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

drove my car yesturday and im having a real hard time with it can anyone check out my thread and a video of what my car is doing? thanks!

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5982521-supercharged-vr-leaning-out-at-idle-and-dieing


----------



## Leouco (Nov 21, 2009)

I just got a V1 for my 96 Vr6, but it came with a home made ****ty bracket, where can i get a decent one... any suggestions?

thanks in advance :thumbup:


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

g6raddo said:


> It's about 2' from the charger I managed to stuff it in between the bumper rebar and bumper could it be too far?
> 
> 
> Sent from the past!!


i would think that would be ok, thats about how far mine is give or take a few inches, like i asked before can u let it idle and remove/install the filter and notice a difference?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

Leouco said:


> I just got a V1 for my 96 Vr6, but it came with a home made ****ty bracket, where can i get a decent one... any suggestions?
> 
> thanks in advance :thumbup:


We offer the one below which is compatible with V1/V2/V3 and V7 head units. It also can incorporate our support bracket which picks up off of the rear attachment point on the head.

http://www.verdictmotorsports.com/product_p/0091.htm

If you're looking for something used, check out the forced induction classifieds.

:thumbup:


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

ok so today i took my vr for drive and at 10psi im right around 11.2-12.5 on a/f gauge 

*now part throttle driving is really bad my car will bog and fall on its face..at idle my vacume is also at -10 is that normal?* 

and when i come to a stop it will go full lean and stall 5 out of 10 times 

its a stage 2 setup 

2.87 pully 
#42 software 
440 injectors 
4"maf 
1.8t dv 
dual idler 
bkr7e's at .024


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

catalina2.o said:


> ok so today i took my vr for drive and at 10psi im right around 11.2-12.5 on a/f gauge
> 
> *now part throttle driving is really bad my car will bog and fall on its face..at idle my vacume is also at -10 is that normal?*
> 
> ...


 Did the car just start running bad, or has it been like this since you did the installation? 

With the new o2 and the maf checking out try swapping the throttle body for a known good or working unit.


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Did the car just start running bad, or has it been like this since you did the installation?
> 
> With the new o2 and the maf checking out try swapping the throttle body for a known good or working unit.


 since the install. 

we adapted the throttle body via vagcom and its working perfect.. 

the only thing i dont have is a walbro inline but i dont think not having one would make me run lean at idle ... it would only cause me to go lean after 12psi


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

catalina2.o said:


> since the install.
> 
> we adapted the throttle body via vagcom and its working perfect..
> 
> the only thing i dont have is a walbro inline but i dont think not having one would make me run lean at idle ... it would only cause me to go lean after 12psi


 The TB may adapt fine, but the internal isv can still go kaput. Although its unlikely any of the hardware previously installed on the car is the culprit. 

Are you positive the chip is a 42# tune? Was it swapped into your ecu or did the ecu come with the blower? If the ecu is new to you try swapping the chip into your ecu. 

Where is your return for the DV entering the inlet? 

Have you checked the pressure at the fuel rail? 

The lack of an additional fuel pump definitely wouldn't bring this on, but while we're on the topic of fuel, 42s are somewhat excessive for your head-unit at only 12 psi. Even running 36s at 3-4 bar do the trick nicely.


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> The TB may adapt fine, but the internal isv can still go kaput. Although its unlikely any of the hardware previously installed on the car is the culprit.
> 
> Are you positive the chip is a 42# tune? Was it swapped into your ecu or did the ecu come with the blower? If the ecu is new to you try swapping the chip into your ecu.
> 
> ...


 i can try a dif TB just to make sure, 

im possitive its a #42 tune because i have 2 chips c2 and UM and both do the same thing. even with diff ecu's 

my return for dv is maybe an inch away from compressor wheel 

my pressure at fuel rail was 38 at idle and 42 with vacume hose disconnected from FPR 

my head unit should be enough till ~10 psi after that id have to get something better or an inline fuel pump.. 

this is why it doesnt make sense to me i made sure everything was perfect and im still having issues at idle... there was a guy on here that had the exact same issues as me im talking down to the T everything my car is doing his was doing also.. he had a #63 software vrt and when he went to a #42 software he had no more problems i dont get it


----------



## downsouthdub (Mar 4, 2006)

Tons of good info here, great resource for my install :thumbup:


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

heres another video


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

Is the MAF facing the correct direction?


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

websaabn said:


> Is the MAF facing the correct direction?


 yeh it is


----------



## vr6swap (Aug 17, 2001)

catalina2.o said:


> yeh it is


 Fuel filter been replaced recently? FPR? Power / ground at the pump? 

I'm also wondering if maybe the fuel pump is dying, like maybe it does okay at idle, but wimps out as soon as it sees even a slight load.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

Whats you vacuum like once then engine is out of closed loop?


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

vr6swap said:


> Fuel filter been replaced recently? FPR? Power / ground at the pump?
> 
> I'm also wondering if maybe the fuel pump is dying, like maybe it does okay at idle, but wimps out as soon as it sees even a slight load.


 filter was replaced last year 

pump is great when im at 10psi of boost its around 11-12 a/f 




[email protected] said:


> Whats you vacuum like once then engine is out of closed loop?


 vacume never changes always the same at -10


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

-10 is pretty crappy. Should be seeing -16ish.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

If you're running a cat, is it clogged? 
dmoe had that problem which was causing the car to fall on its face. 

And like I said on IG, your 268s will bring the vacuum down, and altitude will make a difference (though NJ is roughly sea level is it not?). 

I'd also check the dumb stuff too; like making sure that your wideband o2 is before the cat, there are no cracks in the plastic vacuum hardline, nothing obstructing the exhaust flow etc..


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

prometheus_ said:


> If you're running a cat, is it clogged?
> dmoe had that problem which was causing the car to fall on its face.
> 
> And like I said on IG, your 268s will bring the vacuum down, and altitude will make a difference (though NJ is roughly sea level is it not?).
> ...


 i thought about the cat but no its fairly new still a 2.5" highflow, and nj is pretty much sealevel not too elivated. wideband is on the end of the downpipe and to rule out any leaks im going to smoke test it this week. but im 95% sure there are no leaks


----------



## big_vw_ash (Jun 13, 2012)

Hey guys, dropped the oil out my golf tonight and was wondering what oil people are using on here and what is recommended? 

Cheers


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

catalina2.o said:


> vacume never changes always the same at -10


 That's too low. As stated 16-18 is normal for idle. 



catalina2.o said:


> i thought about the cat but no its fairly new still a 2.5" highflow, and nj is pretty much sealevel not too elivated. wideband is on the end of the downpipe and to rule out any leaks im going to smoke test it this week. but im 95% sure there are no leaks


 Smoke works, but testing under pressure is preferred especially if leaks are only becoming prevalent at a given pressure. 



big_vw_ash said:


> Hey guys, dropped the oil out my golf tonight and was wondering what oil people are using on here and what is recommended?
> 
> Cheers


 15w50 :beer:


----------



## big_vw_ash (Jun 13, 2012)

Thanks, been using 15w 40. Much difference?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

big_vw_ash said:


> Thanks, been using 15w 40. Much difference?


 Added lubrication, slightly less notice and prolonged bearing life. 

15w50 is on the thicker side for cold weather climates, so if your engine is tasked with winter driving you may want to step down to a 10w50 until ambient is above freezing.


----------



## housetown (Nov 20, 2008)

From norway and currently working on my car to get the pipings right. this is my idea 

Running V2 sq charger with custom 2,62 pulley 
And getting my UM chip soon i hope  cant wait to startup 

In picture i will shorten the longest pipe a bit, but the maf there with filter just after


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Jeez, lots of folks like to go all over w/ their piping lol
I liked be able to remove everything without needing a jack


----------



## housetown (Nov 20, 2008)

Well ita becouse the MAF needs to be as far as possible away from the charger to have Max performance and correct mesuring of air  at least i have reaf that meny places so sounded like a good idea to Do


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

MAF needs to be away from turbulence. Meaning not right beside the blower, or immediately after sharp bends, or on the filter.


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

prometheus_ said:


> MAF needs to be away from turbulence. Meaning not right beside the blower, or immediately after sharp bends, or on the filter.


 can u post a pic of how urs was routed when it was still behind the bumper please so i can compare it to mine


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

this is mine.... CAN SOMETHING BE WRONG? :screwy::what:


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

Yea that intake is super short


----------



## ZWStewart (Mar 27, 2002)

Catalina.. I recently traded for a 99 mk3 obd2 vr6 w/ c2 kit (v2) with a very similar intake setup (very short) I had/have the same problems with afr as you. 

I figured by the time I fab or buy a custom intake, replace MAF, o2, and a new updated tune from c2 or um, and still not be sure that it would run right I could just get Lugtronics, so thats what I did. 

rough prices 
O2=$90 
Bosch Maf=$250 
new tuning c2 or um = $350 
intake = ~$300 

So I was at $8-900 to try to make this car run right with a setup that is know to have endless issues. That's why I spent the $1300. 

I will also ditch the maf, and put a filter on inlet of the sc. which puts the air filter in the engine compartment and lets me drive when it's wet outside. 

As much time and money as you have sank into building your car right, you may as well tune it correctly.


----------



## ZWStewart (Mar 27, 2002)

Also, i did try the Saxonpc air straightners. They DID HELP


----------



## ZWStewart (Mar 27, 2002)

Also, i did try the Saxonpc air straighteners. They DID HELP unsteady idle, but the AFR's still acted funny.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

my intake was just as short and ran well. i ran a very old version of the c2 file, and never had issues. im wondering if the bends are causing your issues, or if the DV part going back into the intake is blowing air right back onto the maf. i had mine setup so that when it vented the air back into the intake, it vented towards the charger, and not straight in.


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

hey guys trying to figure out my belt slip issue, started the car today and took it for a short ride, i found that im starting to get slippage at about 3500-3700 rpm, the belt is as tight as i can get, is there any way i can reduce this with out going to a full cogged set up (ie$1500+)?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

shazzam said:


> hey guys trying to figure out my belt slip issue, started the car today and took it for a short ride, i found that im starting to get slippage at about 3500-3700 rpm, the belt is as tight as i can get, is there any way i can reduce this with out going to a full cogged set up (ie$1500+)?


 Eliminating belt slip is definitely obtainable up to a certain point. 


What size crank and charger pulleys? 

How much belt deflection do you have? 
Anything more then 30-40 degrees will generally result in slip for anything north of 6psi. 

Sometimes if the belt length is incorrect you'll find your adjustment on the brackets are actually maxed out. You may not be able to tension further, but the belt may still be loose or not as tight as it needs to be. 

Is the belt new? 
New belts tend to stretch over the first couple hundred miles. If replaced you could have ended up with a slightly longer belt then you had before. 

Hows your alignment? 
This is the biggest cause of belt slip. Looking at the assembly with the engine running do you see it pulling towards one side or the other? With the engine off take a straight edge and rest it against the outside of the supercharger pulley. Does it line up with the alternator? How about rip to rip? Which brackets are you running? There has been quite a few sub par brackets made over the years. Most of those constructed with aluminum assemblies (the C section in particular) have been known to warp from over tensioning. If the C bracket isn't sitting true you'll see slip along with decreased belt life and loss of ribs from an otherwise 6 or 7 rib belt.


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

turbo mike said:


> my intake was just as short and ran well. i ran a very old version of the c2 file, and never had issues. im wondering if the bends are causing your issues, or if the DV part going back into the intake is blowing air right back onto the maf. i had mine setup so that when it vented the air back into the intake, it vented towards the charger, and not straight in.


 yup thats why im lost many people ran the intake same way as i did it and they dont have issues.. when im driving the car is drives quite well except for partial throttle and at idle .. at partial throttle it will bog-backfire-and hicup. and at idle it will go full lean once warmed up.. 
thing is i recently purchased both a c2 chip and a UM chip and they both run the same


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

catalina2.o said:


> yup thats why im lost many people ran the intake same way as i did it and they dont have issues.. when im driving the car is drives quite well except for partial throttle and at idle .. at partial throttle it will bog-backfire-and hicup. and at idle it will go full lean once warmed up..
> thing is i recently purchased both a c2 chip and a UM chip and they both run the same


 I ran a short style intake like yours when I first had the blower. 
I made sure my recirc was blowing AWAY from the MAF, so that air had less chance of causing turbulence. My car was also a distributor setup as well, so the MAF wasn't the same either. 

When I sold the car, I was running this setup: 









I don't know where ZWStewart was getting his cost for a *new* intake ($300 wat), since you can mock up the same setup I've got for the cost of the clamps and silicone. 

I used a reducing 90° bend (3.75-3") going to another 45° 3" bend. 
That went into a piece of 3" pipe w/ an angled stem coming out for the recirc, which was connected to my MAF. 
My MAF was connected to a short piece of pipe, another bend, another piece of pipe (to go over the exhaust), and then another bend+pipe that went up and over to the cone. 
The piece of metal sticking out of the pipe by the crankcase breather is actually a support piece (two holes drilled into some metal), so the whole contraption is supported off of the charge pipe, rather than the silicone pieces  

It may sound like a whole lot... 
But I thought it looked pretty decent, hardly cost anything, and was a piece of cake to disassemble in a hurry. It never gave me any problems. The only thing I wish I had done, was heatwrap all the pipe with reflective tape. 

It's hardly the best solution, but it doesn't seem like many of us like to intercool :laugh::facepalm:


----------



## R36Dreams (Jun 14, 2006)

Hi guys. After waiting entirely too long, I'm finally taking the leap. I've actually had my stg2 setup in my garage for over a year. I've chimed in here a few times with the hopes of beginning the install, but things just happen and other things get delayed. Now, with thoughts of selling the VR in the back of my mind, the wife and I discussed last night and it's time to just go ahead and do it.....install everything that is. 
I'm far from an expert with only only some knowledge beyond regular maintenance and bolt-ons. So, I'm having some good friends whom have an insane amount of knowledge in VW performance help me out. The thing is, I'll have to go to them over a long weekend or just give them the car. Now, I want to make sure either way that I have everything I need ahead of time as well as some items for some maintenance stuff. I was also told that the UM software was best, but now I'm reading in here that they and C2 cause issues? 
The only performance mod on the car right now is a shift kit, stg1+ clutch/flywheel and ecs lightweight pully set. 
What I have: 
12v tapped oil pan 
stg2 kit bought from a user here with exceptional instructions 
12v trans plate 
new vacuum lines 
intake gasket 
valve cover gasket 
aluminum crack pipe 

shopping list: 
boost/oil guages 
software - 

What else do I need to have in hand to get this done and what do I need to look out for? Pointers?


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> Eliminating belt slip is definitely obtainable up to a certain point.
> 
> 
> What size crank and charger pulleys?
> ...


got a stock crank pulley, its a new to me kit was told it was a stage 3 kit, from vfengineering, new belt has maybe 60 miles on it, when i installed it it looked pretty straight it has a 7 rib pulley and i cheated it in one rib to get it to ride straight, its the vf bracket not sure of material though, also running an ac bypass pulley since vf didnt have a non ac belt option(could this cause an issue?) thanks for the info!:beer:


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

shazzam said:


> got a stock crank pulley, its a new to me kit was told it was a stage 3 kit, from vfengineering, new belt has maybe 60 miles on it, when i installed it it looked pretty straight it has a 7 rib pulley and i cheated it in one rib to get it to ride straight, its the vf bracket not sure of material though, also running an ac bypass pulley since vf didnt have a non ac belt option(could this cause an issue?) thanks for the info!:beer:


The VF brackets are all aluminum minus the head bracket that bolts off of the head. The problematic brackets Phil was referring to were for the larger V1/V2 which wouldn't be compatible with your car seeing its a MK4. The VF hardware is much thicker and the tensioning mechanism is entirely different therefore don't suffer the same issues. 

How much deflection is in the belt? After the first few miles the belt will loosen up and should be re-tightened. Using a wrench of the standoff of the head-unit helps quite a bit for leverage.


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> The VF brackets are all aluminum minus the head bracket that bolts off of the head. The problematic brackets Phil was referring to were for the larger V1/V2 which wouldn't be compatible with your car seeing its a MK4. The VF hardware is much thicker and the tensioning mechanism is entirely different therefore don't suffer the same issues.
> 
> How much deflection is in the belt? After the first few miles the belt will loosen up and should be re-tightened. Using a wrench of the standoff of the head-unit helps quite a bit for leverage.


im not sure at the moment im actually headed out to work on it today i have been using a big(22") screwdriver to tension as i tighten down the bolt too hold it. 
are there belts for non ac mk4s out there? im running a bypass pulley atm and im not sure how long its gunna last, and my brother got me the belt for christmas and while i was putting the car together i decided i didnt want ac


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Remove that pulley and measure the length you need. I'm sure there's a belt you can get. Only downside is you may have to order it, which is inconvenient when you need one in a pinch.


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

prometheus_ said:


> Remove that pulley and measure the length you need. I'm sure there's a belt you can get. Only downside is you may have to order it, which is inconvenient when you need one in a pinch.


no worries car is sitting on stands atm while i wait on new rotors, ss lines, pads, rear beam bushings rear hubs and another part that goes with them


----------



## Dub_addict (Aug 7, 2005)

I just picked up an AMS kit to find out that it didnt come with the AMS chip, but on old c2 #30 chip. Would I be safe running this set up without the red top injectors and the traditional AMS set up?

If I buy the injectors do I need a bigger MAF housing (4in?) and would I have to incorporate a diverter valve.

Any help would be appreciated... Thanks


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

Dub_addict said:


> I just picked up an AMS kit to find out that it didnt come with the AMS chip, but on old c2 #30 chip. Would I be safe running this set up without the red top injectors and the traditional AMS set up?
> 
> If I buy the injectors do I need a bigger MAF housing (4in?) and would I have to incorporate a diverter valve.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated... Thanks


if u already have the chip then get the injectors maf and diverter valve ur car will be alot faster... 

i ran the original ams setup and my car was slower then stock!


----------



## Dub_addict (Aug 7, 2005)

Do you still have the AMS software?


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

Dub_addict said:


> Do you still have the AMS software?


yes i do


----------



## R36Dreams (Jun 14, 2006)

Has anyone run a SRI like the one below with a VF setup? Is it worth it? And would whatever software I get need to be altered to account for it?

http://bwperformance.com/products/engine/mk4-24v-short-runner-intake-manifold


----------



## napkin (Mar 8, 2008)

catalina2.o said:


> heres another video



you cant check a/f without going full load. 14,7 is corrected by the lambda itself. if you hit the pedal to the ground on the street (not in idle) thats where you need to check lambda. lambda will always correct your fuel to 14,7... in idle and in cruise or half throttle. you only run by mapping when lambda is shut down. and that only happens if you put the pedal to the metal!

IF, the lambda cant correct to 14,7 afr you will see a difference in AFR, but it can rich or lean out up to 25-30%. 

go take your ride on a spin and hit it in 3rd gear from 1500-6500 and see what afr you will get.
if you are going higher than 12:1 you need to correct the mapping or fuel pressure or injectors. 

but please dont go check your afr data when your car is not on the road. it will never give you correct data.

and also when you take your foot off the pedal after a full pull you will totaly lean out because your engine ecu software will make a fuel cut. so dont worry


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

napkin said:


> you cant check a/f without going full load. 14,7 is corrected by the lambda itself. if you hit the pedal to the ground on the street (not in idle) thats where you need to check lambda. lambda will always correct your fuel to 14,7... in idle and in cruise or half throttle. you only run by mapping when lambda is shut down. and that only happens if you put the pedal to the metal!
> 
> IF, the lambda cant correct to 14,7 afr you will see a difference in AFR, but it can rich or lean out up to 25-30%.
> 
> ...



i have driven it on the street and a/f are all over the place from 10 to 26 back to 13 back to 17 back to 11 back to 15 but once i get into boost about 10psi it says around 12.5

then i pull up to a red light and my car stays at 17 or at --- until the car almost stalls


----------



## ZWStewart (Mar 27, 2002)

And when you to do a TBA it works fine? That's what I was doing when I had the c2 chip. pretty much once a day, it required a TBA before it would run well enough to leave the garage.


----------



## ZWStewart (Mar 27, 2002)

And when you to do a TBA it works fine? That's what I was doing when I had the c2 chip. pretty much once a day, it required a TBA before it would run well enough to leave the garage.

By the way. I got my Lugtronic ecu last week. After a 30 min install the car runs better that it ever has.


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

ZWStewart said:


> And when you to do a TBA it works fine? That's what I was doing when I had the c2 chip. pretty much once a day, it required a TBA before it would run well enough to leave the garage.
> 
> By the way. I got my Lugtronic ecu last week. After a 30 min install the car runs better that it ever has.


it runs the same when i do a TBA nothing changes


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

so running into an issue, im getting a skip but its intermitten, i just put fresh gas in (93 only) and i checked plug wires and coil pack conversion (ford pack) nothing bad there, plugs have maybe 200miles on them and are gapped at .028, and did a quick feel to make sure i didnt have a leak at any of the couplers for the ic piping. any ideas as to what to check next? could it be this c2 chip is just junk? thanks!


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

A skip?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

turbo mike said:


> A skip?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


yeah like a misfire, skippin a cylinder


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

Move plug wires around see I'd the misfire moves. Or unplug one wire at a time and see if anything changes.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

turbo mike said:


> Move plug wires around see I'd the misfire moves. Or unplug one wire at a time and see if anything changes.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


was able to get my hands on my friends mk3 vr6 plug wire tool, found 2 wires had nicks in the rubber just after the change over from wire to boot, 1 has burned mark in it. gunna try to heat shrink them tomorrow so i can make it to dubs on defrost/ wait for a new set to show up, thanks for the help!


----------



## napkin (Mar 8, 2008)

catalina2.o said:


> i have driven it on the street and a/f are all over the place from 10 to 26 back to 13 back to 17 back to 11 back to 15 but once i get into boost about 10psi it says around 12.5
> 
> then i pull up to a red light and my car stays at 17 or at --- until the car almost stalls


can you use description for your numbers? 13 back to 17??? PSI or ARF?

when you hit full throttle it musst be a stable number. if not there can be few options. first check the full load switch on the throttle. maybe its damaged and wont tell your ecu, you are under full load!

if its ok, check if your throttle opens all the way up to the switch, so maybe you need to readjust the cable from the pedal to the throttle.

if you run 17:1 under full throttle, your engine will be damaged in a few minutes. even 12,5 :1 is to high for your country. you need to get richer! you are missfireing because your car is getting to hot and your engine is ignite the fuel, not the spark  not good at all.

send me your ecu numbers and your max boost, the number of your injector size and i will see, if i hava a fitting chip for you!


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

napkin said:


> can you use description for your numbers? 13 back to 17??? PSI or ARF?
> 
> when you hit full throttle it musst be a stable number. if not there can be few options. first check the full load switch on the throttle. maybe its damaged and wont tell your ecu, you are under full load!
> 
> ...


those numbers are a/f 
and i dont think my car has a "full load switch" its a obd2 vr6 throttle body at full load it will be around 15 -14 and then when im am at 10spi of boost its 11-12 a/f

i tried 2 chips and nothing changed i think its something else since m vacume stays at -10 and runs rough at idle... it wasnt like this when i was stage 1


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

Need some advice! I just purchased the abec7 ceramic rebuild for my v9 but I would also like to buy a pulley. If I'm running c2 30# software with injectors and I have a Schrick manifold what would you recommend for a pulley I was reading and someone stated to get the 2.62 pulley, I'd like to push 10 lbs of boost and where can I get a decent pulley??


Sent from the past!!


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

shazzam said:


> i would think that would be ok, thats about how far mine is give or take a few inches, like i asked before can u let it idle and remove/install the filter and notice a difference?


Oh yea if I put the filter on I'd dies immediately!!


Sent from the past!!


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

So my maf took a dump on the way to dod, I got to wondering what people are doing, are the oem ones able to take having the supercharger pulling so much air by them? Or is there another one that works in its place? Also what are people running for oil should I use something different than the 5w30 I always have?


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

ok so on saturday i did a **** load of tests
found no leaks and then the car started running like complete butthole and would stay at 10.00 on a/F and sounded like 2-step when i reved it soooooooo

went home.. replaced ecu and maf and boom! car ran almost perfect!!! :heart:

so took it out for a drive .. very smooth would boost up to 11psi no problems but then....

duh duh duh the car was fulled warmed up and car started going lean again at idle and vacume with back down to -10 from -15 when it was cold

a/f were all over the place again... :banghead:

so next morning car was cold and ran great again!! woooooooooo
then once warmed up.. SAME CRAP!! leaning out again and low vacume

wtttffffff!


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

Replace your coolant temp sensor. C2 software relies in that.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

turbo mike said:


> Replace your coolant temp sensor. C2 software relies in that.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


i did and still does the same thing and it does with with my c2 and UM chip :banghead: ughh


----------



## vr6swap (Aug 17, 2001)

Sounds to me like you may be losing signal, or the signal is going out of range, as the motor warms up. But I wouldn't know which one off the top of my head. 

Can you check the measuring blocks with vag-com? Like MAF, temp sensor, 02. The problem may be in the harness, not the sensor itself.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

catalina2.o said:


> i did and still does the same thing and it does with with my c2 and UM chip :banghead: ughh


next time the car is warmed up, try unplugging the o2 sensor and see if that makes a difference.


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

shazzam said:


> So my maf took a dump on the way to dod, I got to wondering what people are doing, are the oem ones able to take having the supercharger pulling so much air by them? Or is there another one that works in its place? Also what are people running for oil should I use something different than the 5w30 I always have?


any ideas guys?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

shazzam said:


> So my maf took a dump on the way to dod, I got to wondering what people are doing, are the oem ones able to take having the supercharger pulling so much air by them? Or is there another one that works in its place? Also what are people running for oil should I use something different than the 5w30 I always have?


The biggest killer of MAF's is a leaky compressor seal. Otherwise they last like they would in any other application. 

Pick up some 15w50... 5w30 isn't thick enough for a centrifugal supercharger. Thinner/lighter weight oils often weep from both the compressor and input shaft seals, especially on a V9. 

:thumbup:


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> The biggest killer of MAF's is a leaky compressor seal. Otherwise they last like they would in any other application.
> 
> Pick up some 15w50... 5w30 isn't thick enough for a centrifugal supercharger. Thinner/lighter weight oils often weep from both the compressor and input shaft seals, especially on a V9.
> 
> :thumbup:


so could it be running the 5w30 killed it? i will do an oil change tomorrow, its been 500miles-ish on the new top end so wouldnt hurt to change it


----------



## VW_Sporting (Aug 27, 2003)

shazzam said:


> so could it be running the 5w30 killed it? i will do an oil change tomorrow, its been 500miles-ish on the new top end so wouldnt hurt to change it


5W-30 is fine. I talked to Vortech directly about this and 5w, 10w-30 is fine. If you look at all Mustang guys they all run this viscosity oils. You could run something heavier if you track the car but there really isn't any need. I run 5w-40 year round.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

Agreed i run 5-40 or 5-30 and have never had a issue


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

shazzam said:


> so could it be running the 5w30 killed it? i will do an oil change tomorrow, its been 500miles-ish on the new top end so wouldnt hurt to change it


5w30 won't kill it, but its been proven with thicker weight their lifespan IS increased.


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

Another update as I got the valve cover on. Will do more hose clean up in the coming weeks.

I think what counts most in the oil is that you use a good full synthetic oil. Seeing as I have run the same V1 charger for what now 8+ years with out so much as a rebuild. Normally I use 10-40 but it just depends on what is on sale.

Here is what the engine bay is looking like this week I updated a few this as of 4/21/13. In the coming weekend I will replace the plastic valve cover with a polished aluminum cover. As well as doing more clean up of the wiring and plumbing bits.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Oh my girlfriend bought a new car as well. Some green car made by a company VW OWNS lolz.


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

I've routed the maf to the drivers side and I couldn't be happier with it, no oil leak, and I have my vr growl back. It's crazy how a sufficient placed maf can make the world of difference! And you will not get any oil even thinking about touching it EVAR!!!!


----------



## napkin (Mar 8, 2008)

catalina2.o said:


> ok so on saturday i did a **** load of tests
> found no leaks and then the car started running like complete butthole and would stay at 10.00 on a/F and sounded like 2-step when i reved it soooooooo
> 
> went home.. replaced ecu and maf and boom! car ran almost perfect!!! :heart:
> ...


sounds like ecu took out the ignition because of pinging. use better fuel. and of course a obd2 throttle got an full load switch, too  use vag-com and check engines data at chanel 001. you will see the different loads on the chanel 4. (lean, half, full throttle)

are you running the maf surge or pressure side?

what means its going lean in idle? its called a jump-lambda for some reason  it jumps around 14,7 in idle. so maybe it goes upt toe 16 and back to 14,7. thats no problem. the only thing you need to worry about is the maf under more than 75% load. and of course the maf under full throttle


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

napkin said:


> sounds like ecu took out the ignition because of pinging. use better fuel. and of course a obd2 throttle got an full load switch, too  use vag-com and check engines data at chanel 001. you will see the different loads on the chanel 4. (lean, half, full throttle)
> 
> are you running the maf surge or pressure side?
> 
> what means its going lean in idle? its called a jump-lambda for some reason  it jumps around 14,7 in idle. so maybe it goes upt toe 16 and back to 14,7. thats no problem. the only thing you need to worry about is the maf under more than 75% load. and of course the maf under full throttle


when i say lean i mean like 17.0 to --- and it will stay there at idle 
then after a minute or 2 it will start going back towards 15 16 then 15 again


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

Also check the engine temp sensor and maybe the connection on the RPM sensor as well.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

Scooter98144 said:


> I think what counts most in the oil is that you use a good full synthetic oil. Seeing as I have run the same V1 charger for what now 8+ years with out so much as a rebuild. Normally I use 10-40 but it just depends on what is on sale.
> 
> Here is what the engine bay is looking like this week. In the coming weekend I will replace the plastic valve cover with a polished aluminum cover. As well as doing more clean up of the wiring and plumbing bits.
> 
> ...


 :thumbup::thumbup: That is a awesome color for the 911!


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

ok so for people who do not understand i took the car out for a drive and here is a video


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

I don't see any issue with the video, the af will swing around under normal driving, going real lean and then back... Nothing looks out of ordinary to me


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

websaabn said:


> I don't see any issue with the video, the af will swing around under normal driving, going real lean and then back... Nothing looks out of ordinary to me


 yeh but when it goes full lean for that split second the car will hiccup and then go back to normal. then it repeats is that normal too i do i just need to move my maff... once car passes 5psi all the way to 10-12 psi the car is a rocket


----------



## napkin (Mar 8, 2008)

thats because your software/injectors are so lean, that the original lambda cant hold against it. it can handle a max of 25-30% so if your car leans out 31% it cant rich up that much and your car leans out. 

go try a bigger fuel pressure regulator or thell the guy that did the software to rich it up in idle/half throttle 

a simple way to check out how lean your car runs is to unplug the original lambda and see what your wideband lambda reads now. 

note this data and tell it your programmer. go with idle/2000/3000/4000 and so on and full throttle. so he can adapt your software mapping. 

you also can check channel 1 with vcds and see how much percent the lambda adaption is going up


----------



## R36Dreams (Jun 14, 2006)

Hey guys. I bought a used stg II setup from someone online here and they sent injectors with it. I don't know how to determine the size of these in order to get the proper tune. Can you help me out?


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

They look like a Bosch injectors but we need the serial number off them. If they were white I would guess 36lb. But not sure about the grey ones. I would guess 42lb as that is a rather common size. Most tunes for a supercharger use 36lb or 42lb. Just look at the numbers on the side and Google them. They are a type 3 injector so that is a plus as they have good atomization and will work well.


----------



## R36Dreams (Jun 14, 2006)

That's just it, I don't see a serial number. Just the numbers you see in the close-up. I'll look again though. 

This is where I bought it from. Yeah, I know, I've been busy. Finally getting to the install this month. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...an-new-also-fits-R32.&p=72589423#post72589423


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

Well in the end you may have to take them and have them flow benched and cleaned. A fuel injector company can tell you the flow rate at a given pressure. 3bar is pretty much the norm as far as ratings go. Or when you buy a chip from a company they will say what injector you need and you can go on eBay and find a set new or rebuilt set. From what little looking I did on Google it seems VF takes Bosch injectors and melts the numbers off so folks can not know what they are using.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

R36Dreams said:


> Hey guys. I bought a used stg II setup from someone online here and they sent injectors with it. I don't know how to determine the size of these in order to get the proper tune. Can you help me out?


 Give USRT a call. I'm sure Scott would be able to help you figure out what you've got :thumbup:


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

so bad news guys looks like i have to get my v9 rebuilt, i remember way back when i read through a good portion of this thread there was a place everyone was talking about having do it for a decent price but couldnt remember and i dont feel like reading through 150+ pages


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

shazzam said:


> so bad news guys looks like i have to get my v9 rebuilt, i remember way back when i read through a good portion of this thread there was a place everyone was talking about having do it for a decent price but couldnt remember and i dont feel like reading through 150+ pages


Give Noah or Phil at Verdict for rebuilding your VR9.:thumbup:


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

shazzam said:


> so bad news guys looks like i have to get my v9 rebuilt, i remember way back when i read through a good portion of this thread there was a place everyone was talking about having do it for a decent price but couldnt remember and i dont feel like reading through 150+ pages


You're probably thinking of Supercharger Rebuilds, or us. :thumbup:



groupracer said:


> Give Noah or Phil at Verdict for rebuilding your VR9.:thumbup:


VR9 Evan? :laugh:


----------



## groupracer (Apr 15, 2002)

Don't you remember when we added those three cylinders? LOL😝😜😞


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

Little slow in here so I will post this up:










Stage 1 VF setup (older with the good v9) on an obd2 vr6 gti. ~6 psi. Car had a 2.5" exhaust as well. These were back to back runs. Dyno should read close to Dyno Jet numbers in this mode. Car started and ran perfect everytime. Knocked down 30 mpg's on the highway. No messing around with machining the A/C pulley, no drilling of the frame rail. Can remove the kit without a trace minus some extended maf wiring. 

I was on of the many who thought VF kits were overpriced and not that great. After living with this kit for a while I see they had their place. Overpriced yes but an easily reversible +75 hp that is barely noticeable until you press the gas pedal? Hard to complain about that. 

Kit is for sale only because I want to try something different.


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

Bought a set of Bosch 36lb type 3 injectors as well today. They are a tad shorter and have a better spray pattern to boot.

Been doing more clean up of wiring. Up next is a set of new Bosch type 3 36lb injectors and to move slash hide the fuel lines and pressure regulator as well. Car has been running pretty darn smooth so far this summer. I may also swap out the ford coil pack for a screamin demon coil and bump the spark gap up to .060 and see how well that works as well. But that may be over kill


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> You're probably thinking of Supercharger Rebuilds, or us. :thumbup:
> 
> 
> 
> VR9 Evan? :laugh:


thanks! pm'ed you
i was gunna let the vr9 slide lol


----------



## hiatussk8rs (Jul 30, 2003)

R36Dreams said:


> Hey guys. I bought a used stg II setup from someone online here and they sent injectors with it. I don't know how to determine the size of these in order to get the proper tune. Can you help me out?


I've been doing some research... I have a VF kit ... The injectors are off a FORD. The key is finding out which one. Ive been reading that FORD color coat their injectors... Ive read the Grey are #50 injectors... Could be wrong 

Ive been looking and this injector looks similar but could be wrong 

http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/lincoln-ls-thunderbird-39-v-8


----------



## Golf 28 (Dec 13, 2005)

Hi all,

I purcahsed a VF engineering V3 stage 2 supercharger kit for Golf MK3 12V OBD2.
The V3 comes with a 7-rib pulley,
however the Belt supplied is a 6-rib double side belt.

Is it a correct belt? Can I find a 7-rib belt from the market to work with those 7-rib pulleys on the engine?

Many thanks for your input.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

Golf 28 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I purcahsed a VF engineering V3 stage 2 supercharger kit for Golf MK3 12V OBD2.
> The V3 comes with a 7-rib pulley,
> ...


buy an 8 rib belt, cut the extra rib off.


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

Golf 28 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I purcahsed a VF engineering V3 stage 2 supercharger kit for Golf MK3 12V OBD2.
> The V3 comes with a 7-rib pulley,
> ...


Does your car still have A/C?


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

As I do not know the VF kits as well get with Phil. As he will be able to help you the most.

If you still have the AC pump you need to have the AC pulley's ribs machined off. Then you can install a 7 rib one sided belt. As for the length of that belt it will depend on the size of the charger pulley and if the charger is using the small idler pulley as well as the larger idler pulley.

The other option might be to measure the 6rib belt and look online at stores like Autozone and search for a 7 rib double sided belt in that length. Cutting a rib off is also an option as well.
It would help to post some photos of all the parts and pulleys as well. 



Golf 28 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I purcahsed a VF engineering V3 stage 2 supercharger kit for Golf MK3 12V OBD2.
> The V3 comes with a 7-rib pulley,
> ...


----------



## R36Dreams (Jun 14, 2006)

So I've heard that VF likes to keep the specifics on the injectors that come with their kits close to the chest. I'm guessing that it's safe to just go with whatever the standard stg2 program is for the VF kits. 
Now my question is which tune is more reliable? UM has been highly recommended to me, but wanted to get some opinions on others.


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

So I finally got a chance to pull my charger off the car. And there is no sign of oil on the intake or exit side of the charger but my air filter is soaked, aswell as the maf/ and tubing upto the charger. Any ideas guys? My only one is that the oil line plumbing could be leaking and the pull of the sc is grabbing the oil and pulling it up into the intake ? Does theat seem plauseable? Thanks


----------



## MY87GTI (May 14, 2004)

Ok this is taking for ever to find. The only difference in obd1 and obd2 vf kits is the software correct?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

MY87GTI said:


> Ok this is taking for ever to find. The only difference in obd1 and obd2 vf kits is the software correct?


Correct.


----------



## MY87GTI (May 14, 2004)

Thank u very much.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

MY87GTI said:


> Ok this is taking for ever to find. The only difference in obd1 and obd2 vf kits is the software correct?


... and the size of the silicone coupler attaching to TB.


----------



## 92Lowraddo (Apr 18, 2005)

Hey guys,

I have been following this thread for a while now since i started the build and i have been working on this over the winter and drove the car a couple times just to test out the charger. Only issue i had was stalling so i ended up moving the maf further away and fixed that. Also put in a new set of injectors because i had reason to believe that one was faulty. Well now it is not boosting past 5-6 psi. Vacuum is perfect (right around 17-18). The car runs perfectly fine. I cannot seem to chase down the issue.
I do not have a dual idler setup so i know belt slip could be an issue but i cranked the belt super tight just to check and no difference at all. Could the charger be in need of a rebuild? (no shaft play) Swapped diverter valves to rule that out, didn't fix it. Found a small crack in the pcv diaphragm box off the back of the isv so i put on a new one, didnt fix it. 
Anything you guys have run into before that could be a something to double check?

Vortech V2
c2 software
#30 injectors
pulley 11-12psi

It is just weird that it used to boost fine and now i am having issues. I will try to get a picture of the motor up soon.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

^ what size pulley do you have?
- where are you seeing max boost? 6K? 6500?

Check for boost leaks on couplers, vac lines, etc.


----------



## 92Lowraddo (Apr 18, 2005)

I cant remember what size pulley it is. I will have to measure it when i get home. When i was hitting full boost it was around 11-12 psi at about 6k. I have gone over all the couplers and vac lines but i guess it doesn't hurt to double check everything again. I was certain there weren't anymore leaks which is why i was thinking the problem was within the charger itself. It doesn't seem like it needs a rebuild though. Any chance it could be an EGR issue or is that pretty far fetched? 

Also, are the vortech pulleys all pretty universal just different amounts of ribs? Mine does look pretty worn.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

is your VC breather connected to the intake pipe? Your likely blowing past the oil separator & loosing boot by blowing into the head. Also not good for breather. You should have a closed intake pipe upto TB, you have to separate the VC breather, your under boost now, not just vacuum.


----------



## 92Lowraddo (Apr 18, 2005)

The PCV breather is just a long tube with a small filter at the end and the boost pipe is capped where it would have originally gone. I do have the larger vacuum line connected to the boost pipe right before the throttle body that runs to the ISV....


----------



## Banana.Phone (Jun 3, 2008)

Selling my setup if anyone is interested


----------



## hiatussk8rs (Jul 30, 2003)

I recently picked up a 2.8 24v VF kit

I'm Almost done with the kit install but i am stuck at step 39. These VF instructions suck big time.

Any one know were the MAP sensor is ? ive look in the Bentley couldn't find it.

Can someone help. Pictures would be great 

I'm assuming the instructions are wrong 











Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


----------



## MY87GTI (May 14, 2004)

When running stage a stage one vf kit with no ac what length belt do you get because the non ac idler is no longer available


----------



## 92Lowraddo (Apr 18, 2005)

non a/c no idlers is 57" or the gatorback i run is 56.7 i think


----------



## 92Lowraddo (Apr 18, 2005)

MY87GTI said:


> When running stage a stage one vf kit with no ac what length belt do you get because the non ac idler is no longer available


Goodyear Serpentine Belt 4070567


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

New Bosch Type 3 36lb injectors installed. Relocated the the FPR and moved the fuel lines out of site. Basically doing engine bay clean up. Will update with how she runs tomorrow but it sure does sound smooth though. Still need to do a bit more with some of the wiring as well. Some day when I am working more I want to do a T trim billet impeller with cogged pulleys and Lugtronics for tuning. I have also thought about throwing out the intercooler and putting in an Aquamist system for any thing over maybe 5psi of boost.


----------



## MY87GTI (May 14, 2004)

Any one have stage 1 or stage 2 install instructions


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

MY87GTI said:


> Any one have stage 1 or stage 2 install instructions


 I have the vf v9 install guide at home on my computer, pm me your email and I can send it if you want


----------



## MY87GTI (May 14, 2004)

Bosch 30lb injector color?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

MY87GTI said:


> Bosch 30lb injector color?


 Dark red


----------



## MY87GTI (May 14, 2004)

Another ? With vf stage 1 chip does it get rid of the secondary air pump and an o2 sensor or anything else


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

MY87GTI said:


> Another ? With vf stage 1 chip does it get rid of the secondary air pump and an o2 sensor or anything else


 Nope.


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

So a little update. I was having problems for a while that my car was idling weird and having bucking issues. Well I placed the Maf on the drivers side where the horns are by running a 2.5" muffler tube with 90* vibrant couplings. It is actually one Of the better ideas for a v9. I had the muffler shop flare the ends so it was a direct fit to my maf and inlet pipe to my sc ill post pics ASAP! However I'm getting a huge heat problem! I'm thinking of doing 3 things to minimize the temps on my manny # 1 wrapping the exhaust tubing with a heat tape. I know on a hot day that metal has to be getting pretty warm!
#2 adding a phenolic space between my head and lower intake manny I've seen temps being as high as 80* cooler from the head to the manny just by doing this. #3 also putting some kind of heat barrier between my schrick and the valve cover. I can't even touch the manifold while hot this should not be the case! Let me know what you guys think! Oh and the setup is a v9, 30 lb software/injectors, 62 mm pully, abec7 ceramic rebuild, with a schrick intake manifold
























Sorry for the crappy photos but you get the idea


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

With fully functional air conditioning!!! Proud to say it cuz it HOT here in Texas!


----------



## MY87GTI (May 14, 2004)

What would be the absolute best oil to use in a vf setup


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

g6raddo said:


> With fully functional air conditioning!!! Proud to say it cuz it HOT here in Texas!


 Those spacers would help, but you could potentially squeeze a log-style AWIC where your boost pipe is.


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

THAT'S!!!!! Exactly what I was thinking thankyou. Where can I find one


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

Any decent brand of full synthetic 10-30 is what I go by. There is no absolute best oil! If you want a real performance update to the oiling system then look into this. You would now be sending filtered oil to your charger. 










http://www.spturbo.com/onlinestore/index.php/vr6-oil-pump-1195.html 



MY87GTI said:


> What would be the absolute best oil to use in a vf setup


----------



## MY87GTI (May 14, 2004)

Got another? When you guys extend your mafs to the other side of the car what size pipe do you use?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Look around,you gotta take measurements and find one that fits.


----------



## MY87GTI (May 14, 2004)

I mean pipe diameter not lengt


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

I used a 2.5" exhaust tubing anything else would be to big. Just flare the ends to 3" and your golden. Just remember though that the road gets hot and this pipe will to


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

G6raddo, Clean bay. To further reduce intake temps you can 'upgrade' to the later OBD2 style plastic VC. Mine is polished as well. I know the plastic does keep heat transfer down some. 

My filter is located on the d/s & the maf is located under my subframe(f. mt.). I used 3" Spectra flex tubing & its tightly zip tied to the subframe. the flex tubing allows me to follow the contour & stay 'tucked'.


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

I did consider this (the flex) but I wanted a more durable material, and although the vibrant couplings are spendy they are definitely the best way to go! And the fitment is perfect. I relocated my maf to the driver side where my filter is just to keep it off the ground Incase I hit something. Ill try to dig up a picture!


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

Here's one here. You can't see it in the pic but I bend the tubing in the middle to contour the front end, perfect fitment. I would ultimately like to weld a bracket to the tubing and mount it solid but zip ties has done the trick so far!


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

And of course another coupling on the pass side. But at 60 dollars it's hard to fork out for it unless I absolutely need it!


----------



## MY87GTI (May 14, 2004)

What about the plastic covers on the vf kits? Anyone have one for sale or know where I can get one.


----------



## MY87GTI (May 14, 2004)

Also what is that little electronic box for. The instructions tell you to zip tie it to the heater intake


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

Scooter98144 said:


> Any decent brand of full synthetic 10-30 is what I go by. There is no absolute best oil! If you want a real performance update to the oiling system then look into this. You would now be sending filtered oil to your charger.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Here's another option for sending filtered oil to your charger. It's a mini oil filter I bought from Torques UK on eBay. M10x1 to 4an...










On the left below..










Sent from my T-Mobile myTouch using Tapatalk 2


----------



## MY87GTI (May 14, 2004)

I'm also looking for a vf non ac idler


----------



## MY87GTI (May 14, 2004)

Herrrrooo


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

As the supercharger has a built in filter I would be very leery of a tiny ass filter like that. The very last thing you want to do is starve the charger of oil filtered or unfiltered. In the end as long as you use a good oil filter and change the full synthetic oil when it needs changing. I would not worry to much. My V1 has been running for for over8 years now with out an issue.




BlackSwan said:


> Here's another option for sending filtered oil to your charger. It's a mini oil filter I bought from Torques UK on eBay. M10x1 to 4an...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

g6raddo said:


> Here's one here. You can't see it in the pic but I bend the tubing in the middle to contour the front end, perfect fitment. I would ultimately like to weld a bracket to the tubing and mount it solid but zip ties has done the trick so far!


kinda jealous that you have that kind of room to do that, my filter/maf sit where the flex piping you have ends, damn ic!


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

Yea I'm not sure what you would do with a front mount maybe just go short runner with an air to water with stand alone and eliminate the maf


----------



## WallyWaldo (Nov 17, 2004)

selling my V2 blower kit & Lugtronic engine management & injectors if anyone local is looking. see my link below. Whole car, runs & drives.



http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...6***Vortech-V2-w-Engine-Management-(Lugtronic)


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

ill give this another try, Car goes lean at idle and bucks and pops and goes lean at low cruising speed with but runs fine when at 10psi of boost.... 


stage 2 ams setup 
v1 
#42 UM software 
440cc injectors
4"maf
mk4 hg
2.87 pully
brand new 02 sensors that are working
bkr-7e plugs gapped at .24
dual idler pully 
2.9 clone
drc 268 cams
ported manis 
2.5" exhaust
port and polished head

moved maf further and did nothing!
tried #30 software and injectors and nothing!


----------



## hiatussk8rs (Jul 30, 2003)

Gonna go with some Motul 15w50 which version do you all recommend ?


----------



## MY87GTI (May 14, 2004)

catalina2.o said:


> ill give this another try, Car goes lean at idle and bucks and pops and goes lean at low cruising speed with but runs fine when at 10psi of boost....
> 
> 
> stage 2 ams setup
> ...


Check your mag wiring I just had this happen when I first fired my car up after I put me kit on. I had two wires switched on one end.


----------



## MY87GTI (May 14, 2004)

OK so I have a stage 1 vf kit on my car and I have 262 cams. Has anyone tried running a 4.5bar fpr to avoid lean issues.


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

MY87GTI said:


> OK so I have a stage 1 vf kit on my car and I have 262 cams. Has anyone tried running a 4.5bar fpr to avoid lean issues.


when your wires were switched wat exactly was your car doing?


----------



## MY87GTI (May 14, 2004)

Idling like crap and back firing out the intake also no change when I unplug the maf.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Unplug your TPS (if obd1) and see if that changes anything.
Mine was running wonky at one point, and ended up being shoddy TPS wiring


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

92Lowraddo said:


> non a/c no idlers is 57" or the gatorback i run is 56.7 i think


so a 56 5/8 is too long:banghead: anyone know for sure what length is needed if only going on crank,waterpump, sc, alt, and ps pullies? was looking like a 52-53.7" but not sure and got to dark to measure

sorry pulled a noob move an didnt search lookes like a 50.6-51" belt, can anyone confirm?


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

Anyone?


----------



## cjm722 (Mar 12, 2004)

I sold my v9 and the intake pipe I made for my mk3 won't be used. Is anyone would like to have it for there car let me know, it replaces the rad support fits behind the bumper with no trimming requires zero modification to the car what so ever will even work with a/c 3" pipe all mandrel bent 









Text me for more pics and info 513-593-3482


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

so i need some help, with my v9 the serp belt is running the sc instead of the normal tensioner i deleted my ac and dont have the bypass pulley anymore, i cant seem to drive more than 10 miles with out snapping belts, the first was a 6rib that i had alot of tension on so i figured thats why it snapped, got a normal duty 8 rib and had to cut it down since all the pulleys are 7 rim and i cant seem to get a 53" 7rib belt anywhere. when this one broke i was able to walk back down the road to get it, when i picked it up it was super hot. lucky my gf picked me up an HD belt and was able to bring it to me so i might be able to drive the car home. when i went to install the new belt about 10-15min after i pulled over i touched the sc pulley and got burned it was so hot, i then felt the othere pulleys and they were slightly cooler but still very warm. what would cause the pulleys to heat up like this? looks like the alinement is good, oil pressure going into the charger is about 65psi @3k rpm and 85-90psi @ 6.5-7k rpm and it seems like it boosts fine and will peak @ about 11-12psi, if these gauges are correct.


----------



## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

It seems like alot of friction is accumulating on your pulley, You might have a very bad set of bearings. Did you buy the unit new? Did you check the blower before installation? If not then it pretty much have to be an alignment issue. Mine ran for months out of align and it would just make a 6 rib into a 4 rib real quick! Take a video of it


----------



## x9t (Sep 19, 2005)

Hey Guys,

I am about to bolt on my V3 with UM software and I was wondering if installing a 1.8T IAT sensor would help. I plan to replace it and NOT relocate it. I have the intake manifold off right now and I have heard good things when the VR is stock. Do you guys have any experience with this? 

http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?5242321-DIY-1.8T-IAT-sensor-install-on-VR6-manifold.

JT


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

g6raddo said:


> It seems like alot of friction is accumulating on your pulley, You might have a very bad set of bearings. Did you buy the unit new? Did you check the blower before installation? If not then it pretty much have to be an alignment issue. Mine ran for months out of align and it would just make a 6 rib into a 4 rib real quick! Take a video of it


i baught the kit used off here and well we all know how nice people are, had to rebuild most of the kit the blower was sopposed to have been rebuilt less than 1k before the guy did an endo with his car on a track in cali. i never had a problem with it until i took it apart (about 1,000miles) to get the ic piping powdercoated, and redid the plumbing since it was leaking.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

Belt too loose, belt slip causing hot pulley, hot pulley causing belt stress causing it to break... Just a thought. Had it happen to mine before


----------



## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

I just got a used stage II V9 kit and its missing some things.

Seems to be missing the adapter for the oil feed from the oil filter housing.
A tap for the oil pan.
The belt.
4 Bar FPR?

It came with what appears to be Bosch #30 injectors and I think it has an 8psi pulley.

I know this has been covered somewhere in the 157 pages, but just looking for a quick answer where I can find the things I need.

Also, would the #30 injectors be enough for 8psi? Do I need to get a 4 bar FPR? Belt size?
Thanks in advance.


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Alingarhs said:


> I just got a used stage II V9 kit and its missing some things.
> 
> Seems to be missing the adapter for the oil feed from the oil filter housing.
> A tap for the oil pan.
> ...


4bar FPR depends on your car. If its a mk3, you can stay 3 bar for 8psi. Corrados have a 4bar stock. Not sure about mk4.


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

websaabn said:


> Belt too loose, belt slip causing hot pulley, hot pulley causing belt stress causing it to break... Just a thought. Had it happen to mine before


never did cross my mind but ive been through 4 belts in the last week, and each time i have run different tension from getting no belt slip up to 7200rpm(full weight torqueing on the tension adjustment) to getting slip at 5600rpm, and no difference other than a couple miles. all of which were less than 10miles.


----------



## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

I have searched for HOURS to find the right hose and fittings to tap my oil pan.
Can someone please give me a hand?
Its a V9 charger
So far I what I have come up with is getting a -8 AN hose to a -8 AN fitting to thread into my pan.

Would this work as a oil tap fitting?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220757/overview/

Although I am not sure if the drain fitting from the V9 is a -8 or a -10?


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

Alingarhs said:


> I have searched for HOURS to find the right hose and fittings to tap my oil pan.
> Can someone please give me a hand?
> Its a V9 charger
> So far I what I have come up with is getting a -8 AN hose to a -8 AN fitting to thread into my pan.
> ...


On my v9 setup its a -4an feed line and the fitting for the oilfilter housing is a m10 to -4an fitting. The return line is just rubber hose and there is a 90degree fitting that you clamp out of the charger. For the oil pan side I just went to home depot and got a brass 1/2" 90degree with male on one side and female on the other, then got a 1/2" hose barb and hooked the line to it to the 90 and into the panby drilling and threading a hole in it. Hope this helps I can get pics if you want


----------



## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

Pictures would be great man. From what I understand, you either punch or drill a hole into the pan or block and then tap it out using the right tap for the fitting that is bought. Then it should just screw into the pan? Is there a nut used on the inside of the pan to keep the connection secure and tight?

So the hose you used for the drain is a 1/2 as well I assume?


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

I'd recommend pulling the pan and having an AN fitting welded to it.


----------



## 1.8tzx6r (May 30, 2010)

On mine its a 3/8 national pipe thread by 8an and I pulled my pan and tapped my block because that's what vf said to do you can get the fitting from atp. I would definitely recommend pulling the pan to see where your pilot bit goes through so you don't hit a rib on the inside of the block . Vf recommended tapping the block so oil wouldn't back up down low to the blower . I had a vf stage 1 several years back and it was the same way and I had no issues with it , now I have a vf stage 2 on my r and its the exact same and no issues . 

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

Tapping block is a better idea. Just a little more work.


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

Alingarhs said:


> Pictures would be great man. From what I understand, you either punch or drill a hole into the pan or block and then tap it out using the right tap for the fitting that is bought. Then it should just screw into the pan? Is there a nut used on the inside of the pan to keep the connection secure and tight?
> 
> So the hose you used for the drain is a 1/2 as well I assume?


yep 1/2" line i dont have a good pic of my oil pan fittings, ill see if i can get one here in the next few days if you need more.

if you look back behind my index finger theres the 90 i was talking about.

feed side, the T is so i can run an oil pressure gauge it just wasnt hooked up at this time. 
and beacuse i feel like being a whore! and yes i am not low... 
also you can check out my"build" thread just incase you come across some extra info you may need http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5981250-The-GREEN-build!


----------



## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

Awesome man! Thank you so much for the pictures, they were very helpful. I cant wait to get this hooked up to my GTI.

Last question is from what I saw the belt length I need is a 61 inch 7 rib with A/C. Is this correct?
Where would you find that? I doubt the auto stores have them.


----------



## x9t (Sep 19, 2005)

x9t said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> I am about to bolt on my V3 with UM software and I was wondering if installing a 1.8T IAT sensor would help. I plan to replace it and NOT relocate it. I have the intake manifold off right now and I have heard good things when the VR is stock. Do you guys have any experience with this?
> 
> ...


So no one has ever done this? I guess I will be the first.:sly:

JT


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

I imagine it'd be just as effective as doing it to a stock car


----------



## 92Lowraddo (Apr 18, 2005)

Hey guys,

Who uses the Bosch #30 red injectors? I am running the skinny ones and its seems that the retaining clip on the fuel rail doesn't really hold the injector. I pulled off the upper manifold and one of my injectors was actually passed the seating point on the manifold allowing a boost leak. 
There any tips or tricks to make this work? Is a spacer needed somewhere?

Also does anyone have any feedback on gatorback belts? Slip more/less?
Thanks in advance!


----------



## vproject (Jun 12, 2002)

In the past some people did ask if an air flow straightener was the solution for idling problems.
Is this indeed a solution?

















Otmar


----------



## 92Lowraddo (Apr 18, 2005)

The air straightener worked perfect for me. I was even able to move the maf and filter back to passenger side directly below the charger


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

Alingarhs said:


> Awesome man! Thank you so much for the pictures, they were very helpful. I cant wait to get this hooked up to my GTI.
> 
> Last question is from what I saw the belt length I need is a 61 inch 7 rib with A/C. Is this correct?
> Where would you find that? I doubt the auto stores have them.


I do belive you need a 57" double sided micro v, I have the vf belt laying around some where it has "ike 1000 miles on it. And it doesn't fit my car now that I don't have. Ac or the bypass pulley if ur interested pm me and we can work something out


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

If you want to spend a lot less buy this instead.

http://www.saxonpc.com/100mm-cells-for-100.html













vproject said:


> In the past some people did ask if an air flow straightener was the solution for idling problems.
> Is this indeed a solution?
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## DumpedDub (Sep 16, 2004)

Has anyone seen 400hp?


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

looking for the 6003 speed rated bearings for a vortec v9 charger, i cant seem to get them anywhere. any ideas? yes ive googled


----------



## IntakeManifold (Jul 3, 2002)

*Urgent* Help needed with C2 VR6 Dual Idler pulley (for a Vortech charged VR6)

Hello Vortex, I really need your help. 

Do any of you have a C2 dual idler pulley setup On or Off a vehicle?

I have a C2 dual idler, but it came without spacers ( between the Accessory bracket and the dual idler bracket ).

I need to know the width/thickness of your spacers (the two between the Acc. Bracket and the idler bracket)



*i have made a set and have them cut down to ~14mm in width but that is still to large. ( ID and OD are sorted)

I want to get this right the second time. Thank you. 

-Chris


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

I.D.

O.D

Width


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

naysayers said:


> .


I spy a nice little cogged setup


----------



## sircharlesmarz (Feb 3, 2013)

[email protected] said:


> I spy a nice little cogged setup


Speaking of Cogs... I hear that Verdict at one point offered a cogged upgrade for the ZR-1. Details?


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

sircharlesmarz said:


> Speaking of Cogs... I hear that Verdict at one point offered a cogged upgrade for the ZR-1. Details?


Negative. Talked about it, that about as far as it got :thumbup:


----------



## blowedGTI (Nov 24, 2004)

Just got my set up put on and hit the dyno today

Parts lists

Stock 12v vr6
Supersprint header
TT 2.5 exhaust with no cat
Schrick intake manifold
V2 charger
C2 30lbs fueling kit
2.87 pulley
Forge DV

263whp 233tq

Not to bad!!! the belt likes too walk off need to fix that.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

i had the same issue when i had ac. removed the ac, issue was gone. if one of your pullies are slightly off, that will happen. make sure they are all straight.

numbers are good. i made 278whp, i forget tq on almost the same setup. make sure to monitor af ratio. i ran lean on my pulls at that power level.


----------



## VW_Sporting (Aug 27, 2003)

blowedGTI said:


> Just got my set up put on and hit the dyno today
> 
> Parts lists
> 
> ...


Can you post a dyno chart?


----------



## Flyweight (Jan 15, 2007)

*Getting Prepared for the Track*

Hello All!

I am trying to get my v9 mk2 vr6 prepared for track days and was wondering what advise you have.

I am running the following:

V9 charger...contemplating running a 2.5" 8-rib pulley un-intercooled (is this smart?)
9.5:1 headspacer (necessary?)
DRC 268s
C2 30# chip (am I going to be running lean?)
3" exhaust
TT downpipe
Ported exhaust manifolds
External oil cooler
Stock Radiator (will this be sufficient?)

Thoughts? How can I make this thing reliable on track?

Thanks,

Andrew


----------



## catalina2.o (Oct 27, 2008)

anyone looking for a superclean full vortech v1 ams/c2 stage 2 kit In NJ

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...p-300-hp-complete-kit&p=83410531#post83410531

im selling mine


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

looking to replace my v9 pulley measures about 2 3/8" od, 7 rib cant seem to find anything


----------



## 92Lowraddo (Apr 18, 2005)

A lot of people run an 8 rib pulley because the 7 ribs are hard to come by. Usually just have to bend the fuel rail lines over a little.


----------



## 1.8tzx6r (May 30, 2010)

How much trimming of the front bumper did you guys have to do on your r32s for the vf stage 2 . I have the aluminum tubing not the plastic pipe that tapers down before the intercooler . 

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Flyweight (Jan 15, 2007)

Hey Shazzam,

Check out this 2.4" pulley from Gruven Parts. It is 2.4". How much boost are you running with your current pulley?

http://gruvenparts.com/website/cart/cart.php?target=product&product_id=432&category_id=60

-Andrew


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

Hey guys I need some help finding a new pulley. The one I have measures 2.3"@ the belt surface but I can't seem to find a 2.5" pulley. .. if I cant find one ill just have to take it to a machine shop to have them clean it up. All the v I the pulley are more of a u shape I believe its what is causing me to burn through belts so quickly. Like 8 miles and its toasted. Thanks!


----------



## 92Lowraddo (Apr 18, 2005)

*Cogged Pulley Kit*

Hey guys,

I was sick of belt slip and belt length questions and searching for idlers until i came across this guy who just started making affordable cogged pulley setups. I just installed a set on my Corrado and all i can say is wow. :thumbup:
Check out the install....... http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6748413-Cogged-Pulleys-Goodbye-belt-slip


----------



## jdenney741 (Jul 25, 2009)

Hey quick question. I'm new to sc's but have been reading the thread to learn some. 

Which charger is the best in opinions? Is one more reliable than the other v2, v2, or v9? 

Is lowering the compression to 9:5 or 8:5 via head spacers needed on the obd2 vr?

Most of the kits in the fi classifieds are ranging from 2-3k but all seem to have the same chargers v1,2, and 9. I can't find why some are cheaper than others is it any thing in particular? I mean the 2 more expensive ones are polished can any charger be polished or is that worth the extra 1k? 

Thanks hopefully I will be up and running mine in the next few months I'm just trying to get all my research done before buying and installing. I will be having help putting it all together from a friend whom is much more experienced than me with it, he says any full kit will suffice.

I was going to go turbo but it seems for my driving and what I want a sc is a better option. All day power less management and less to worry about. 

Am I right? Why'd you decide to go sc over turbo? 

Thanks 
Justin


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

Flyweight said:


> Hey Shazzam,
> 
> Check out this 2.4" pulley from Gruven Parts. It is 2.4". How much boost are you running with your current pulley?
> 
> ...


It puts out about 12psi but thats if I have the belt torqued as much as I can and im about 230lbs so I get some pretty good pull on it lol


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

Found a bad bearing on the out put shaft on the seal side. The seal was shot too. So all new seals and replaced all the bearings. All of them will now have brass cages not damn plastic ones and I also picked up a new pulley from Paul (gruvenparts). Hopefully will have it put together this weekend and take it for a couple hour cruise then change it over to winter storage mode.. I hate winter...


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

Just a few quick shots of a friends car sitting in my driveway currently.


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

wow that's nice. is that a v1 or v2? is it intercooled?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

2.8l 24v vr6 with my old V1 S Trim, intercooled, and on lugtronic, all in a mk2 jetta


----------



## 92Lowraddo (Apr 18, 2005)

shazzam said:


> It puts out about 12psi but thats if I have the belt torqued as much as I can and im about 230lbs so I get some pretty good pull on it lol


Be careful with tensioning that belt too much. You will need bearings again sooner than you think if it is that tight. One of the main reasons i went with the cogs and of course to stop the slip all together. That will heat up the pulleys quick and will actually start to melt/tear apart the belt. I hate winter too:thumbdown: Gives us time to stare at our cars in the garage or work on them. Which is almost as fun as driving them for me.


----------



## napkin (Mar 8, 2008)

not a 6cyl. but still a VR engine 

doing a vr5 20v beetle at the moment. i claim that its the first vr5 sc beetle worldwide.


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

Okay guys I really need some help. 2002 jetta 12valve vr6 with a vortech v9 ftrim. Supercharger was completely rebuilt and a new pulley, if I get into higher rpm I snap belts. Altinator and power steering and waterpump pulleys spin freely. Ac is deleted running a 7 rib single sided belt 53.25"


----------



## sircharlesmarz (Feb 3, 2013)

napkin said:


> not a 6cyl. but still a VR engine
> 
> doing a vr5 20v beetle at the moment. i claim that its the first vr5 sc beetle worldwide.


Is that a Z engineering unit that I see? ZR-2? Those cogs look beaut!

If those are after market pulleys I need in on your source. I'm trying to go cogged!


----------



## 92Lowraddo (Apr 18, 2005)

shazzam said:


> Okay guys I really need some help. 2002 jetta 12valve vr6 with a vortech v9 ftrim. Supercharger was completely rebuilt and a new pulley, if I get into higher rpm I snap belts. Altinator and power steering and waterpump pulleys spin freely. Ac is deleted running a 7 rib single sided belt 53.25"



Belt is way too tight.


----------



## 92Lowraddo (Apr 18, 2005)

shazzam said:


> Okay guys I really need some help. 2002 jetta 12valve vr6 with a vortech v9 ftrim. Supercharger was completely rebuilt and a new pulley, if I get into higher rpm I snap belts. Altinator and power steering and waterpump pulleys spin freely. Ac is deleted running a 7 rib single sided belt 53.25"


I bet you can't even touch your pulleys after the belt snaps because they are so hot. You are cooking your bearings, heating up the pulleys, and killing the belt.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

Too tight, but I suspect pulley alignment is an issue. Make sure ALL of your pullies are aligned to one another

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


----------



## napkin (Mar 8, 2008)

zr2 is 10 years old now .. its a rsc charger. but the charger is based on the zr chargers.
a friend of mine bought ruf superchargers 5 years ago and redesigned the impellers etc.

its completely cnc machined now and the impeller geometry is more similar to the gtx machined chargers


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

turbo mike said:


> Just a few quick shots of a friends car sitting in my driveway currently.


Anymore pics of this? Any pics of the entire car?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


----------



## sircharlesmarz (Feb 3, 2013)

napkin said:


> zr2 is 10 years old now .. its a rsc charger. but the charger is based on the zr chargers.
> a friend of mine bought ruf superchargers 5 years ago and redesigned the impellers etc.
> 
> its completely cnc machined now and the impeller geometry is more similar to the gtx machined chargers


Where can I find out more about the rsc chargers? Website? Hookup?


----------



## napkin (Mar 8, 2008)

http://www.carlicious-parts.com/epages/62028049.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Shops/62028049/Categories/Kompressor_Kits

http://www.carlicious-parts.com/epages/62028049.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Shops/62028049/Categories/%22Kompressor%20FAQ%27s%22


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

92Lowraddo said:


> Belt is way too tight.





92Lowraddo said:


> I bet you can't even touch your pulleys after the belt snaps because they are so hot. You are cooking your bearings, heating up the pulleys, and killing the belt.


before the rebuild i couldnt, pulleys are pretty warm but can keep my hand on them.


turbo mike said:


> Too tight, but I suspect pulley alignment is an issue. Make sure ALL of your pullies are aligned to one another
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


ive been backing off the amount of tension i put on it to where i was getting slip at about 5,000rpm. did find out that my altinator is junk, and picked up the rest of gruven parts lightened pulley set. one day when im feeling like working on the damn thing/ freezing my ass ill swap in the new parts.

also starting to get tired of cops bothering me while im trying to put a new belt on in the dark on the side of road (aka last times ive driven the damn thing)


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

Ever time I had a snapped belt, it wasn't tension, it was an alignment issue. You may need to shim things and grind things down or have them machined down. I hear ya about being cold. 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

Vortech V2 S trim w/ 928 Motorsports S trim Billet Impeller and Ceramic hybrid high speed bearings
Verdict Motorsports Auxiliary Drive Cog pulley conversion running a 76 tooth Crank and 30 tooth Blower pully (65k rpm at 7200 Engine RPM)
VF Engineering STG 3 AUX Drive brackets
HPA Motorsports liquid cooled intake manifold
Vortech Mondo Diverter valve, 60 MM discharge. 
3" inlet/outlet boost tubing 2/ 4" OEM MAF
Schrick 272 Intake / 264 Ex. camshafts
C2 9:1 headspacer
Bluewater performance STG 2 E85 fueling Kit. UM STG 2 Flex tune, Wlabro 255 inline pump, Siemens 870 cc injectors
Supersprint headers to a custom 3" exhaust all the way back. 
Sachs Race Engineering Clutch

Still a work in progress, but it runs.


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

BOUDAH said:


> Vortech V2 S trim w/ 928 Motorsports S trim Billet Impeller and Ceramic hybrid high speed bearings
> Verdict Motorsports Auxiliary Drive Cog pulley conversion running a 76 tooth Crank and 30 tooth Blower pully (65k rpm at 7200 Engine RPM)
> VF Engineering STG 3 AUX Drive brackets
> HPA Motorsports liquid cooled intake manifold
> ...


Wow! looks awesome. I cannot wait to see what it dyno's


----------



## dubmanvr (Oct 1, 2010)

here is my old set up. united motorsports 42lb chip, twin in tank walboro 255's, vortech v1 62k bearings, 928 billet impeller, 2.5 charger pulley with no ac or ps, 3.5 inch intake, 2.5 inch discharge piping through a horizontal mount eip intercooler, vortech max flow diverter, 2.9 clone fully ported upper and lower intake mani, 262 cams, fully ported head with hd springs and titanium retainers, 9 to 1 head spacer, arp rod and main hardware, ported stock mani's and tt downpipe, 3inch custom exhaust to a flowmaster super 40, snow performance stage 2 water meth with a post tb 375ml injector. currently working on a compound charge with a list of many more mods


























the clown


----------



## ATLVR6 (Nov 20, 2003)

Anyone looked into adding a wastegate to their supercharged VR? 

http://www.musclemustangfastfords.com/tech/mmfp_0708_vortech_centrifugal_supercharger_wastegate_install/dyno_results.html


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

isnt a purpose of a waste gate jsut expel unused/excess exhaust pressure? That principal wouldnt work the same for a supercharger. I think what the article should be referencing is a Diverter or blow off valve instead for the Intake boost. There are hoever boost controllers out there for Superchargers now....


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

Basically that's what the article is saying. You over drive the SC so that it will make way more boost than your setup can handle but within the impeller max speed of the SC. the purpose of the WG is to bleed off the excess boost at the higher rpms. 
So somebody like me that has a V1 could use a 20psi pulley. My engine cannot handle 20psi at 7000 RPM so I use a WG to start bleeding the boost at say 8 PSI. 
With this system I could get 8psi from 4500 to 7000 vs only seeing 8psi at 7000.

Pretty cool idea, hope somebody tries it out.


----------



## 92Lowraddo (Apr 18, 2005)

naysayers said:


> Basically that's what the article is saying. You over drive the SC so that it will make way more boost than your setup can handle but within the impeller max speed of the SC. the purpose of the WG is to bleed off the excess boost at the higher rpms.
> So somebody like me that has a V1 could use a 20psi pulley. My engine cannot handle 20psi at 7000 RPM so I use a WG to start bleeding the boost at say 8 PSI.
> With this system I could get 8psi from 4500 to 7000 vs only seeing 8psi at 7000.
> 
> Pretty cool idea, hope somebody tries it out.


I saw this and immediately thought of you Naysayers.

Great idea, lots of boost early in the rpms. Could you imagine the sound this would make?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Carl @ 928 Motorsports has been doing this for years. Regulator valves have been around forever. Using a wastegate allows for re-serc air flow. Which once you pass the 14/15psi all of the MAF based tunes are useless. So with standalone and the 928 valve its a good setup.

http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/boostlimitervalve.php


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

those 928 parts are pretty cool but I would rather use a WG just so that I can use a boost controller to change the boost on demand or run different boost per rpm profiles.

I wonder if recirculating the WG would add too much heat into the system. In effect you would be compressing the air twice.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

naysayers said:


> those 928 parts are pretty cool but I would rather use a WG just so that I can use a boost controller to change the boost on demand or run different boost per rpm profiles.
> 
> I wonder if recirculating the WG would add too much heat into the system. In effect you would be compressing the air twice.


there would be no difference in heat than from a diverter. I run a Vortech Mondo valve that recirculates the air back into the intake stream . youll be fine


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

For the most part your average VRsc owner won't be making so much boost that they need to use a wastegate.


----------



## napkin (Mar 8, 2008)

the idea is nothing new. main problem will be and is still the more heat you produce in upper rpms or impeller speeds. and the charger will need more power to turn at all. so more power loss or less efficiency. 

the more heat will compense the more boost and all in all you will end up with nearly the same power as you have with original setup and sharper ignition timings 
maybe it will run better from lower rpms, but there will be a point, where you maybe will get less power than with original gear ratio. and dont forget the faster wareout of all charger parts. 

you better got with sharp timings and good fuel instead of playing around  
only way to get a ok-working system is a very very big intercooler. but with that you will have more pressure drop, and the game starts again :laugh: you will need more boost to compense the pressure drop of the intercooler etc. etc. etc..
oh and did i already mentioned belt slipping? :laugh:


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

prometheus_ said:


> For the most part your average VRsc owner won't be making so much boost that they need to use a wastegate.


 bingo! 

also, show me a Vortech making 20# on a VW that isn't exceeding it's bearing rating. not gonna happen. 
....u want 20psi, get a turbo.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

CorradoMagic said:


> bingo!
> 
> also, show me a Vortech making 20# on a VW that isn't exceeding it's bearing rating. not gonna happen.
> ....u want 20psi, get a turbo.


Vortech V7 YSI on a 2004 R32. Owner, Bill George VW vortex handle Vwgeorge2

Bill uses a 60mm Vortech Mondo Diverter valve... no wastegate needed


----------



## 92Lowraddo (Apr 18, 2005)

Hmmm... The idea of the wastegate on a s/c is the reach max boost quicker. It may be a 20psi pulley but say the wastegate is set at 8 psi. Still only max out at 8psi but maybe around 4k rpm as opposed to 6500-7000


----------



## dubmanvr (Oct 1, 2010)

my v1 is at 65k with 16 psi max 2.5inch pulley i am not sure why i would want to use a waste gate, and by my speed calc's at 16psi i am already testing the limits of the ceramic bearings.


the clown


----------



## jdenney741 (Jul 25, 2009)

Sorry to disturb your guys discussion on waste gates...  I have a quick question. 

As for my setup would I need to lower compression running a v1 charger? It should be safe running 12-13lbs of boost correct? Also it doesn't quite need an inter cooler even though I have it setup for inter cooler? 

I just feel running higher boost requires a head spacer, then I need arp bolts, then that translates to new transmission, which will also need heavier duty axels? Correct. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

dubmanvr said:


> my v1 is at 65k with 16 psi max 2.5inch pulley i am not sure why i would want to use a waste gate, and by my speed calc's at 16psi i am already testing the limits of the ceramic bearings.
> 
> 
> the clown


there is probably a fair amount of slip going on with that 2.5 pulley. I doubt your bearings are seeing more than 52k.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

jdenney741 said:


> Sorry to disturb your guys discussion on waste gates...  I have a quick question.
> 
> As for my setup would I need to lower compression running a v1 charger? It should be safe running 12-13lbs of boost correct? Also it doesn't quite need an inter cooler even though I have it setup for inter cooler?
> 
> ...


on an R32. ull need a spacer or pistons at 9-10 PSI. ur 12V... if it is a 12 v... IDK. id assume in the same ball park.


----------



## jdenney741 (Jul 25, 2009)

BOUDAH said:


> on an R32. ull need a spacer or pistons at 9-10 PSI. ur 12V... if it is a 12 v... IDK. id assume in the same ball park.


Yea 98 12v. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

ok, NVM then..


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

BOUDAH said:


> on an R32. ull need a spacer or pistons at 9-10 PSI. ur 12V... if it is a 12 v... IDK. id assume in the same ball park.


This is exactly why there is talk of using a wastegate. Some people want to shift some boost down low but not go over 10 psi. 
Im in that boat, not really wanting to go much over 10 psi but it sure would be nice to have some more boost down lower in the rpm range.
I plan on trying it soon. I am running a 28T SC pulley right now that gives me 15 psi at 7000 but that's way to high to be safe in my current setup. I have 24T pulleys being made now and when they get here im going to run the 24T and use a wastegate to bleed off the extra boost. 
And yes the bearing speeds will be exceeded, so what? its cheaper to rebuild a charger than an engine. Got to pay to play.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

naysayers said:


> This is exactly why there is talk of using a wastegate. Some people want to shift some boost down low but not go over 10 psi.
> Im in that boat, not really wanting to go much over 10 psi but it sure would be nice to have some more boost down lower in the rpm range.
> I plan on trying it soon. I am running a 28T SC pulley right now that gives me 15 psi at 7000 but that's way to high to be safe in my current setup. I have 24T pulleys being made now and when they get here im going to run the 24T and use a wastegate to bleed off the extra boost.
> And yes the bearing speeds will be exceeded, so what? its cheaper to rebuild a charger than an engine. Got to pay to play.


Ok, so we are talking running a blower OVER your engines capacity stock... and adding a wastegate instead of simply adding a larger pulley to run within your parameters. Im sorry but this is silly. Build ur motor, put a smaller pulley on it. or just run a larger pulley... unless ur doing it just for ****s and gigles, great

edit. Alsois that wastegate fails.. ur ****ed. you are simply adding another thing to potentially go wrong that isnt needed


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

jdenney741 said:


> Sorry to disturb your guys discussion on waste gates...  I have a quick question.
> 
> As for my setup would I need to lower compression running a v1 charger? It should be safe running 12-13lbs of boost correct? Also it doesn't quite need an inter cooler even though I have it setup for inter cooler?
> 
> ...




we have been running 12-14psi on the wifes VR cabby for atleast 40k miles with a mk4 headgasket, and no intercooler... just a good W/M kit.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

websaabn said:


> we have been running 12-14psi on the wifes VR cabby for atleast 40k miles with a mk4 headgasket, and no intercooler... just a good W/M kit.


Holy crap, ur still alive!


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

BOUDAH said:


> Ok, so we are talking running a blower OVER your engines capacity stock... and adding a wastegate instead of simply adding a larger pulley to run within your parameters. Im sorry but this is silly. Build ur motor, put a smaller pulley on it. or just run a larger pulley... unless ur doing it just for ****s and gigles, great
> 
> edit. Alsois that wastegate fails.. ur ****ed. you are simply adding another thing to potentially go wrong that isnt needed


Everything you said is true except your statement does not take into account the modified characteristics of the centri-blower with a wastegate.
By running the blower at max or over you will build boost much sooner in the rpm range. I would rather have 4-6 psi at 3500 than 1 psi. It makes a centri-blower much more fun on the street.
I agree that using a wastegate to bleed off boost will never yield the max hp vs maxing the boost on a built engine but for guys like me that want more low end boost, this is a perfect solution.


----------



## jdenney741 (Jul 25, 2009)

websaabn said:


> we have been running 12-14psi on the wifes VR cabby for atleast 40k miles with a mk4 headgasket, and no intercooler... just a good W/M kit.


Well I got an inter cooler with the kit, so I might as well use it. 

Yea if I do a head gasket I need to replace the bolts. Hmm. Wondering if it's needed atm. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

naysayers said:


> Everything you said is true except your statement does not take into account the modified characteristics of the centri-blower with a wastegate.
> By running the blower at max or over you will build boost much sooner in the rpm range. I would rather have 4-6 psi at 3500 than 1 psi. It makes a centri-blower much more fun on the street.
> I agree that using a wastegate to bleed off boost will never yield the max hp vs maxing the boost on a built engine but for guys like me that want more low end boost, this is a perfect solution.


Okay, i see what ur sayig now. it jsut allows ur to build boost sooner w/o grenading ur engine... as if u were overspinning it but ur not


----------



## dubmanvr (Oct 1, 2010)

naysayers said:


> there is probably a fair amount of slip going on with that 2.5 pulley. I doubt your bearings are seeing more than 52k.


i agree that i am probably experiencing some belt slip but from a 65k calculated to barley 52k that is almost a 4k rpm pulley slippage, i would believe i would be melting belts left and right at that amount of slip? i can get 8 - 10k out of a belt if i want to push it. to be on the safe side i changed it every oil change and never experienced loss of power from belt wear. 2.5 pulley dual idler no ps or ac.


the clown


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

dubmanvr said:


> i agree that i am probably experiencing some belt slip but from a 65k calculated to barley 52k that is almost a 4k rpm pulley slippage, i would believe i would be melting belts left and right at that amount of slip? i can get 8 - 10k out of a belt if i want to push it. to be on the safe side i changed it every oil change and never experienced loss of power from belt wear. 2.5 pulley dual idler no ps or ac.
> 
> 
> the clown


Agreed
I threw out 52k because that's a little over the bearing speed that I make 14 psi at on cogs. 
I figured if you are seeing about the same boost as me then our chargers are spinning about the same speed. 

What engine management are you using?


----------



## dubmanvr (Oct 1, 2010)

naysayers said:


> Agreed
> I threw out 52k because that's a little over the bearing speed that I make 14 psi at on cogs.
> I figured if you are seeing about the same boost as me then our chargers are spinning about the same speed.
> 
> What engine management are you using?


at the time i was using united motorsports 42# with a 9to1 spacer, i am currently putting together a megasquirt 2 and ditching the maf. allot of other things affect boost psi as well if the motor is flowing better you will have less psi then a restricted motor, i also had a fully ported head and intake 262 cams, tt downpipe and full 3 inch exhaust. i am not trying to argue but two diff set ups will produce different results using the same pulley and charger, or same turbo


the clown


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

BOUDAH said:


> Holy crap, ur still alive!


Haha yep alive and hard at work in the garage... Just never post on here that much


----------



## Bouhlee (Nov 27, 2011)

Hey guys im looking for a used/need to rebuilt/Broken vortech v1 s trim ou t trim ccw as well if you see somethings Like that let me know 

Louis from TapaTalk


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

are u looking for street or HD version.


----------



## freedomtanker (Aug 9, 2006)

im looking too for a V1 charger, can be either or. most likely i will do the HD rebuild if it isnt already. anyone hit 400 horse yet with a charger?


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

freedomtanker said:


> im looking too for a V1 charger, can be either or. most likely i will do the HD rebuild if it isnt already. anyone hit 400 horse yet with a charger?


With an R32, YES. Also, something to note. unless you purchase an "HD" version, you CANNOT upgrade to an HD version from a standard version blower because the case is different. you would literally have to just purchase a new supercharger thats already an HD. I had a lengthy conversation with Vortech about this, lol 


So you either want an HD Vortech V1 Si or V2 Si HD if not say a V1 or V2 T


----------



## freedomtanker (Aug 9, 2006)

BOUDAH said:


> With an R32, YES. Also, something to note. unless you purchase an "HD" version, you CANNOT upgrade to an HD version from a standard version blower because the case is different. you would literally have to just purchase a new supercharger thats already an HD. I had a lengthy conversation with Vortech about this, lol
> 
> 
> So you either want an HD Vortech V1 Si or V2 Si HD if not say a V1 or V2 T


i was thinking with a 12v 2.8... there has to be a way to hit 400. the v1 can make up to 20psi i thought. turbo vr guys running 20 psi are over 400 hp arent they. im a little bit of a noob when it comes to FI so forgive me. 

wow the whole case needs to be HD huh? thats kind of a racket if you ask me lol. so yeah i guess im looking for a HD Vortech V1 then. thanks for the heads up.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

freedomtanker said:


> i was thinking with a 12v 2.8... there has to be a way to hit 400. the v1 can make up to 20psi i thought. turbo vr guys running 20 psi are over 400 hp arent they. im a little bit of a noob when it comes to FI so forgive me.
> 
> wow the whole case needs to be HD huh? thats kind of a racket if you ask me lol. so yeah i guess im looking for a HD Vortech V1 then. thanks for the heads up.


Contact [email protected] or [email protected] With Cogs and a V1 trim, i don't doubt y can make 400 EASILY. if cogs are too Expensive for you $$ wise. Email [email protected] to see if they still sell their STG 3 kits/ hardware. as long as its for a 24v 2.8 u should be ok. but i dunno if they have anything for a 12 v. I know Verdict has 12v stuff for DAYS. lol 

-Ellery


----------



## 92Lowraddo (Apr 18, 2005)

freedomtanker said:


> i was thinking with a 12v 2.8... there has to be a way to hit 400. the v1 can make up to 20psi i thought. turbo vr guys running 20 psi are over 400 hp arent they. im a little bit of a noob when it comes to FI so forgive me.
> 
> wow the whole case needs to be HD huh? thats kind of a racket if you ask me lol. so yeah i guess im looking for a HD Vortech V1 then. thanks for the heads up.


You can also contact [email protected] or go to the website. He made a really nice affordable cogged kit for the 12v. Im running it and so far i love it. I know his main focus is the 12v vr6's now but i know he is planning to work on kits for the 24v.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

To hit 400 the following things are needed

Cams 268's
16-18psi of boost (1100-1200 cfm)
Cogs
Standalone
Header
3" exhaust
Bosch 044 Fuel Pump
630cc injectors
500-600hp intercooler setup
Head Studs
Dropped compression


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

DeckManDubs said:


> To hit 400 the following things are needed
> 
> Cams 268's
> 16-18psi of boost (1100-1200 cfm)
> ...




Why do you keep posting what it will take to make 400 when you have never done it? I have seen you claim it easy, etc. but when asked for proof you never show any?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

vw1320 said:


> Why do you keep posting what it will take to make 400 when you have never done it? I have seen you claim it easy, etc. but when asked for proof you never show any?


Its not easy at all or cost effective. A 24v can do it easier, but turbocharging is a much more efficient setup.


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

DeckManDubs said:


> Its not easy at all or cost effective. A 24v can do it easier, but turbocharging is a much more efficient setup.



I am not talking about cost or ease. Just simply you stating a parts list for 400 hp when you haven't made that much. 
What is the highest hp 12v sc you have been involved with? 

To my knowledge no one has made 400 with a vortech on a 12v. Kinda presumptuous to say it takes these parts to do something that has not been done before.

300 is cake, 350 has been done. Beyond that I don't think has really been explored too much.


----------



## freedomtanker (Aug 9, 2006)

vw1320 said:


> I am not talking about cost or ease. Just simply you stating a parts list for 400 hp when you haven't made that much.
> What is the highest hp 12v sc you have been involved with?
> 
> To my knowledge no one has made 400 with a vortech on a 12v. Kinda presumptuous to say it takes these parts to do something that has not been done before.
> ...


Those parts in therory should get you there, maybe a 3.0 3.1 bore would help. Thats really why i brought this up, no one ive seen has even tried and really the tech isnt out there because everyone is lazy and goes the easy way with a turbo. Imo a supercharger is way more reliable then a turbo. Id really like to try and get close to 400whp as someone can with a s/c. Just think same power no lag or driveline shock.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

freedomtanker said:


> Those parts in therory should get you there, maybe a 3.0 3.1 bore would help. Thats really why i brought this up, no one ive seen has even tried and really the tech isnt out there because everyone is lazy and goes the easy way with a turbo. Imo a supercharger is way more reliable then a turbo. Id really like to try and get close to 400whp as someone can with a s/c. Just think same power no lag or driveline shock.




Has anyone used say an SRI with big injectors, a ported head, large exhaust, big cams and say a larger blower like a V7 JT or YSI?


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

freedomtanker said:


> Those parts in therory should get you there, maybe a 3.0 3.1 bore would help. Thats really why i brought this up, no one ive seen has even tried and really the tech isnt out there because everyone is lazy and goes the easy way with a turbo. Imo a supercharger is way more reliable then a turbo. Id really like to try and get close to 400whp as someone can with a s/c. Just think same power no lag or driveline shock.


In theory Denver could have won yesterday but the reality was completely different.

Just to be clear I am probably as big of a fan as there is of supercharged Vr6's. I have owned several. To this day I believe I still have the record for the quickest S/C vr6. This is simply about people posting conjecture and theory and passing it off as experience. That list is probably a good start, and might make great power, but to pass it off as recipe for 400 whp when you havent made that much before is misleading.


----------



## jdenney741 (Jul 25, 2009)

You guys say 300 is easy. I just picked up a v1 with injectors inter cooler kit and don't think I'll be at 300. 

I think I'm more realistically looking at 250-270. That will be running 12lbs safely. Unless I drop compression I can't go past that no? If I go past then I look at needing cams, new transmissions, etc? No? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

jdenney741 said:


> You guys say 300 is easy. I just picked up a v1 with injectors inter cooler kit and don't think I'll be at 300.
> 
> I think I'm more realistically looking at 250-270. That will be running 12lbs safely. Unless I drop compression I can't go past that no? If I go past then I look at needing cams, new transmissions, etc? No?
> 
> ...


J Denny, install an R32 02M.  Im surprised you 12 v guys dont drop pistons or a headspacer in as is. That v1 is capable of well over 12 PSI, especially if you get cogs. which are like 800 from Supecharger innovations. 

-Ellery


----------



## freedomtanker (Aug 9, 2006)

BOUDAH said:


> J Denny, install an R32 02M.  Im surprised you 12 v guys dont drop pistons or a headspacer in as is. That v1 is capable of well over 12 PSI, especially if you get cogs. which are like 800 from Supecharger innovations.
> 
> -Ellery


it seems all people run are 6-8psi or 12-15psi.... isnt the V1 rated up to 20psi?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

mk4 headgasket, 12psi pulley (youll make a tad more than that) schrick 268's, 3" exhaust, unintercooled i made just over 300whp on an OLD c2 chip with 30lb injectors. its doable. just watch your afr's


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

jdenney741 said:


> You guys say 300 is easy. I just picked up a v1 with injectors inter cooler kit and don't think I'll be at 300.
> 
> I think I'm more realistically looking at 250-270. That will be running 12lbs safely. Unless I drop compression I can't go past that no? If I go past then I look at needing cams, new transmissions, etc? No?
> 
> ...


Had a customer do 313whp @ 12psi using 262's on a 12v. Had another do 350 @ 12psi on standalone and 268's. Both were stock compression setups.


----------



## Bouhlee (Nov 27, 2011)

DeckManDubs said:


> Had a customer do 313whp @ 12psi using 262's on a 12v. Had another do 350 @ 12psi on standalone and 268's. Both were stock compression setups.


:thumbup:

With compression drop and high et boost should be very nice on lightweight chassis like mk2

Louis from TapaTalk


----------



## jdenney741 (Jul 25, 2009)

BOUDAH said:


> J Denny, install an R32 02M.  Im surprised you 12 v guys dont drop pistons or a headspacer in as is. That v1 is capable of well over 12 PSI, especially if you get cogs. which are like 800 from Supecharger innovations.
> 
> -Ellery


When this trans goes I'm going to figure out a Mk4 trans swap. 

Head spacer means more boost, more boost means more problems. 1 step at a time. I cogs I thought can only handle so much boost


----------



## jdenney741 (Jul 25, 2009)

freedomtanker said:


> it seems all people run are 6-8psi or 12-15psi.... isnt the V1 rated up to 20psi?


Yes up to 20. 

Problem is more power = more money. I can only swing so much at once. Seeing as I just did a stag 2 clutch and 10lb fw, and bought the charger in November I have to wait a bit. Maybe next winter.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

jdenney741 said:


> When this trans goes I'm going to figure out a Mk4 trans swap.
> 
> Head spacer means more boost, more boost means more problems. 1 step at a time. I cogs I thought can only handle so much boost


Cogs are whart MAKES so much boost.


----------



## jdenney741 (Jul 25, 2009)

BOUDAH said:


> Cogs are whart MAKES so much boost.


I thought it was just more efficient boost because it eliminated belt slip. But you couldn't go full boost. Idk I'm still super new to this, I actually haven't even installed the sc yet because I'm breaking in the clutch first, and that's taking a while as its not my daily. 

Also I'm scared to install the sc by myself with not knowing how 100% so ill probably be paying some1 local who is smarter than I but will teach me as its done.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

dont forget, you need to make sure that you are staying within the blowers rpm range. you may surpass that just by trying to get to 20psi. i made 14-15psi without a cogged setup and raced it the same way without half the belt issues/bearing issues most people deal with on a regular basis. put good bearings in it, figure out your belt alignment/tension, and make due with what you have.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

BOUDAH said:


> Cogs are whart MAKES so much boost.


They allow the larger blowers to be pushed to their peak efficiencies. The standard K7 belt does not have the ability to transmit power like a cog setup does in a high rpm low inertia environment.



jdenney741 said:


> Yes up to 20.
> 
> Problem is more power = more money.



Max you will see out of a standard V1 is around 15-16psi. Which is a measure of restriction. 





jdenney741 said:


> I thought it was just more efficient boost because it eliminated belt slip. But you couldn't go full boost. Idk I'm still super new to this, I actually haven't even installed the sc yet because I'm breaking in the clutch first, and that's taking a while as its not my daily.
> 
> Also I'm scared to install the sc by myself with not knowing how 100% so ill probably be paying some1 local who is smarter than I but will teach me as its done.





turbo mike said:


> dont forget, you need to make sure that you are staying within the blowers rpm range. you may surpass that just by trying to get to 20psi. i made 14-15psi without a cogged setup and raced it the same way without half the belt issues/bearing issues most people deal with on a regular basis. put good bearings in it, figure out your belt alignment/tension, and make due with what you have.


Bingo. 

Rule of thumb is a V9 requires 50hp to spin at full operational range. A V1 requires more like 70hp. The larger Y7 blowers are closer to 100hp to spin. Which means there is now way in hell your going to spin a Y7 into its efficiency range due to stall out because of the poor flow characteristics. 




Bouhlee said:


> :thumbup:
> 
> With compression drop and high et boost should be very nice on lightweight chassis like mk2
> 
> Louis from TapaTalk


:laugh:

http://vimeo.com/47765846 

V9 cog setup 




jdenney741 said:


> When this trans goes I'm going to figure out a Mk4 trans swap.
> 
> Head spacer means more boost, more boost means more problems. 1 step at a time. I cogs I thought can only handle so much boost


Boost is a measure of resistance. Inlet design, exhaust, cams and charger displacement all factor into the volumetric efficiency of the setup.


----------



## jdenney741 (Jul 25, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> They allow the larger blowers to be pushed to their peak efficiencies. The standard K7 belt does not have the ability to transmit power like a cog setup does in a high rpm low inertia environment.
> 
> Max you will see out of a standard V1 is around 15-16psi. Which is a measure of restriction.
> 
> ...


All of this confused me. :what: Care to explain a little more?

I just want to run about 12lbs at first. Learn the car and the setup to what it is supposed to do and can do. Then maybe after that figure out how to dial in a higher setup. Which will begin with headspacer- 9:1 is what I have read is what you need to really run a higher boost, this is where more money comes in. Cogs, trans, spacer, arp bolts, and cams. 

If I can get larry (LSinLV) to help me out and teach me a few of his tricks, that would be awesome. He seems to be the guy who knows his stuff here in the Vegas valley, as well as Dave. Dave is just to busy running his shop, but tells me I should just have fun with it at the low range because in his mind if you go past that you should just do a 1.8t swap. 

My car atm is stock besides forge hoses, 2.5in pipe (might have a 3in straight pipe made at a shop, or heck I might try and make one myself, my neighbor has made multiple exhausts for his cummins and his class 8 prerunner). 

My setup is - V1 charger, green top injectors, with a routed seperate intercooler (looks to attach underneath the frame somewhere), came with a chip that Idk what chip it is exactly, has a bov. etc standard setup.


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

jdenney741 said:


> All of this confused me. :what: Care to explain a little more?



Don't worry that is just because half of it doesn't even make any sense. 

If there is no sticker/label on your chip you can throw the ecu in the car and scan it with Vag-Com. Most software is tagged in the Engine Screen. You didn't mention a larger maf housing but most 42# (green top) software uses one. 

Probably best if you post a picture of your setup. From the sounds of it the intercooler may or may not be worth using.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

jdenney741 said:


> All of this confused me. :what: Care to explain a little more?
> 
> If I can get larry (LSinLV) to help me out and teach me a few of his tricks, that would be awesome. He seems to be the guy who knows his stuff here in the Vegas valley, as well as Dave. Dave is just to busy running his shop, but tells me I should just have fun with it at the low range because in his mind if you go past that you should just do a 1.8t swap.
> 
> My setup is - V1 charger, green top injectors, with a routed seperate intercooler (looks to attach underneath the frame somewhere), came with a chip that Idk what chip it is exactly, has a bov. etc standard setup.


Well if your able to pick Larry's head you will have some fun, him an I go way back. He saw my old setup when I was out doing a road rally and Bonneville salt flat runs. The basic bolt on setup with cams, exhaust work and a good tune is a fun driving car. Rather than shooting for numbers make it drive the best you can with a reasonable hike in power.

Larry will tell you as well, 3" exhaust helps a lot to increase the overall flow. IIRC he made 20whp on a catless 3" with a TT downpipe.


----------



## jdenney741 (Jul 25, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> Well if your able to pick Larry's head you will have some fun, him an I go way back. He saw my old setup when I was out doing a road rally and Bonneville salt flat runs. The basic bolt on setup with cams, exhaust work and a good tune is a fun driving car. Rather than shooting for numbers make it drive the best you can with a reasonable hike in power.
> 
> Larry will tell you as well, 3" exhaust helps a lot to increase the overall flow. IIRC he made 20whp on a catless 3" with a TT downpipe.


Yes 20hp, that was on page 60 or around those parts. 

Full setup 









Inter cooler 









Injectors and chip












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Krazee (Jan 26, 2003)

freedomtanker said:


> Those parts in therory should get you there, maybe a 3.0 3.1 bore would help. Thats really why i brought this up, no one ive seen has even tried and really the tech isnt out there because everyone is lazy and goes the easy way with a turbo. Imo a supercharger is way more reliable then a turbo. Id really like to try and get close to 400whp as someone can with a s/c. Just think same power no lag or driveline shock.


1) Turbo is not "easier" that supercharging, its more efficient, both from a dollars/horsepower perspective and from a usage perspective. Turbo use exhaust gas (i.e. waste) to generate power. You can run less boost on a turbo setup and make the same, or more power than a supercharger setup.

2) Supercharger more reliable? In what way? OE-equipped turbos from multiple manufacturers can last for hundred of thousands of miles with no issue, so long as your PSI falls within its normal operating parameters. Plus, Turbos can make horsepower more reliably, as in, consistently, without concern of belt slip common to VR setups.

3) Driveline shock has to do with tuning and the amount of power one wants to run, and the way you drive. Properly equipped, and properly tuned, a similarly powered VR would have no issues. Further more, anything beyond 250 *wheel* horsepower on a FWD chassis is largely pointless for anything other than drag strip runs or bragging rights. There is a reason why OE cars last so long with certain power numbers - they are tuned and built to handle everything from a straight line to turns, and the subsequent stresses and forces on various parts and linkages.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

jdenney741 said:


> Yes 20hp, that was on page 60 or around those parts.
> 
> Full setup
> 
> ...


:thumbup:


----------



## 8vbunny (Oct 2, 2002)

Krazee said:


> 1) Turbo is not "easier" that supercharging, its more efficient, both from a dollars/horsepower perspective and from a usage perspective. Turbo use exhaust gas (i.e. waste) to generate power. You can run less boost on a turbo setup and make the same, or more power than a supercharger setup.
> 
> 2) Supercharger more reliable? In what way? OE-equipped turbos from multiple manufacturers can last for hundred of thousands of miles with no issue, so long as your PSI falls within its normal operating parameters. Plus, Turbos can make horsepower more reliably, as in, consistently, without concern of belt slip common to VR setups.
> 
> 3) Driveline shock has to do with tuning and the amount of power one wants to run, and the way you drive. Properly equipped, and properly tuned, a similarly powered VR would have no issues. Further more, anything beyond 250 *wheel* horsepower on a FWD chassis is largely pointless for anything other than drag strip runs or bragging rights. There is a reason why OE cars last so long with certain power numbers - they are tuned and built to handle everything from a straight line to turns, and the subsequent stresses and forces on various parts and linkages.



:facepalm: you can shock your drive line by simply hitting uneven pavement and having too much wheel hop at WOT even on a NA car.... I see you have become a FI " expert " as well :laugh:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

"Those who think they know, are really beginning to piss of those of us that do"


----------



## VDuBJett92 (Apr 30, 2004)

wish there was a like button for everything vw1320 has said. he knows what hes talking about.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

I finally got this running here are the specs. 

Car: 2004 R32

Motor: 3.2L 24v VR6
-Vortech V1 S trim Supercharger
-United Motorsport E85/93 Flex Fuel Tune
-Seimens 870cc Injectors
-C2 9:1 headspacer
-HPA Liquid Cooled Intake Manifold ( charge cooler )
-Verdict Motorsports Auxiliary Drive Cog Pulley kit
-VF Engineering STG 3 Supercharger Aux Drive Brackets
-VF Motot mounts w/ FFE Delrin Bushes
-Vortech 60mm Mondo Diverter valve

Drivetrain: DRP 02M 6 speed Trans
-Sachs SRE Clutch/ OEM R32 Flywheel

Exhaust:
-Supersprint Headers
-Custom 3" mid pipe Cat delete w/ a Virbrant Resonator
-CTS Turbo R32 3" cat back 

Brakes:
-Wilwood 4 piston front calipers w/ stock rotors
-Rear OEM setiup 

DYNO: TBD

-
-Ellery


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Nice to see you got her up and running Ellery!


----------



## 92Lowraddo (Apr 18, 2005)

:thumbup: looks good Boudah


----------



## vampvr (Apr 13, 2010)

My cousin's GTI 4MOTION 2001 with a V3 at 6psi


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

Decided it was time to really push the v1 and 10.5:1 vr haha lets see how long it lasts


----------



## vampvr (Apr 13, 2010)

hi, i need some advice, i just send my car for a custom tune, i have a v9 charger with the 2.25 pulley and i get 12psi at 6400rpm, FMIC, lightweight crank and waterpump pulley from ecs, no cat with magnaflow exhaust and 415cc genesis fuel injectors, i went today and he told me i only get 200whp, i live at 7200 feet above sea level and i want to know if this is really low or maybe he just cant get it tuned right, thanks.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

vampvr said:


> hi, i need some advice, i just send my car for a custom tune, i have a v9 charger with the 2.25 pulley and i get 12psi at 6400rpm, FMIC, lightweight crank and waterpump pulley from ecs, no cat with magnaflow exhaust and 415cc genesis fuel injectors, i went today and he told me i only get 200whp, i live at 7200 feet above sea level and i want to know if this is really low or maybe he just cant get it tuned right, thanks.


Are you running cogs? I feel a 2.25 pulley on a V9, ur almost overspinning it?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

websaabn said:


> Decided it was time to really push the v1 and 10.5:1 vr haha lets see how long it lasts


Yeah buddy!!!




vampvr said:


> hi, i need some advice, i just send my car for a custom tune, i have a v9 charger with the 2.25 pulley and i get 12psi at 6400rpm, FMIC, lightweight crank and waterpump pulley from ecs, no cat with magnaflow exhaust and 415cc genesis fuel injectors, i went today and he told me i only get 200whp, i live at 7200 feet above sea level and i want to know if this is really low or maybe he just cant get it tuned right, thanks.


Way overspinning with a 2.25" pulley. So you dyno'd 200whp? 12psi on stock cams does between 230 and 250whp between sea level and 5k ft. Sounds like you need some better tuning/standalone.


----------



## vampvr (Apr 13, 2010)

its a 24v vr6, whats the correct size for the sc pulley, thanks


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

2.4 is the absolute LOWEST you should run and even that is sightly over spinning. The most u should be making on that 2.8 is around 9 PSI or so with the 2.4. 2.62 seems to be where the majority runs.


----------



## 8vbunny (Oct 2, 2002)

vampvr said:


> hi, i need some advice, i just send my car for a custom tune, i have a v9 charger with the 2.25 pulley and i get 12psi at 6400rpm, FMIC, lightweight crank and waterpump pulley from ecs, no cat with magnaflow exhaust and 415cc genesis fuel injectors, i went today and he told me i only get 200whp, i live at 7200 feet above sea level and i want to know if this is really low or maybe he just cant get it tuned right, thanks.


Hammering away at those knock sensors . If you have a vag com log your timing when you do a nice 3d gear pull and also your intake temps. That should give you a better indication as 200whp is pretty weak for 12 psi. What size intercooler and what size piping are you using?


----------



## vampvr (Apr 13, 2010)

8vbunny said:


> Hammering away at those knock sensors . If you have a vag com log your timing when you do a nice 3d gear pull and also your intake temps. That should give you a better indication as 200whp is pretty weak for 12 psi. What size intercooler and what size piping are you using?


27.25"X6.75"X2.5" with 2.5 piping or 2.25 i dont remember, i know 200whp is weak for that, thats why im asking, i was running the stock pulley with a N/A software without fmic and the car run great, but i changed to smaller pulley because i wanted more boost but i didnt want ruin my engine so i take it to the shop for custom tune, i put the 2.25 pulley because i saw a thread with the min pulley sizes, so if that one is too small ill put the right one this week, thanks again


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

vampvr said:


> 27.25"X6.75"X2.5" with 2.5 piping or 2.25 i dont remember, i know 200whp is weak for that, thats why im asking, i was running the stock pulley with a N/A software without fmic and the car run great, but i changed to smaller pulley because i wanted more boost but i didnt want ruin my engine so i take it to the shop for custom tune, i put the 2.25 pulley because i saw a thread with the min pulley sizes, so if that one is too small ill put the right one this week, thanks again


You are aware the most u can run on a STOCK MOTOR is 8-9 PSI right? Also you would need a headspacer for anything over that. Also if ur running a 2.25 pulley chances are you're getting a good bit of belt slip with that blower. I Doubt you're actually seeing 12 psi.


----------



## vampvr (Apr 13, 2010)

BOUDAH said:


> You are aware the most u can run on a STOCK MOTOR is 8-9 PSI right? Also you would need a headspacer for anything over that. Also if ur running a 2.25 pulley chances are you're getting a good bit of belt slip with that blower. I Doubt you're actually seeing 12 psi.


i get 10.5psi at 5500rpm just a few days before i get it to the shop, maybe my belt is worn, and yes the belt slip at 6500rpm at the dyno, so im getting a new one, i get the pulley size from this thread http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?3618896, if im using the wrong one please let me know so i can put the right diameter for maximum boost on the V9


----------



## 8vbunny (Oct 2, 2002)

vampvr said:


> 27.25"X6.75"X2.5" with 2.5 piping or 2.25 i dont remember, i know 200whp is weak for that, thats why im asking, i was running the stock pulley with a N/A software without fmic and the car run great, but i changed to smaller pulley because i wanted more boost but i didnt want ruin my engine so i take it to the shop for custom tune, i put the 2.25 pulley because i saw a thread with the min pulley sizes, so if that one is too small ill put the right one this week, thanks again


You are prob pulling too much timing. Check that via vag com. What size injectors are you running? (sorry if you posted it earlier, I did not read the whole thread)


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

vampvr said:


> i get 10.5psi at 5500rpm just a few days before i get it to the shop, maybe my belt is worn, and yes the belt slip at 6500rpm at the dyno, so im getting a new one, i get the pulley size from this thread http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?3618896, if im using the wrong one please let me know so i can put the right diameter for maximum boost on the V9


What software are you using. Running a N/A chip with boost is a no-no, especially when you start pushing the flow levels up.


----------



## 8vbunny (Oct 2, 2002)

Do also a quick compression test and post your #s


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

you may be running 10.5 psi, but that doesnt mean ur motor will handle it for long.


----------



## vampvr (Apr 13, 2010)

8vbunny said:


> You are prob pulling too much timing. Check that via vag com. What size injectors are you running? (sorry if you posted it earlier, I did not read the whole thread)


im using the genesis 415cc, also i live at 7200feet above sea level, im going to pick up my car in a couple hours and then ill check the timing



DeckManDubs said:


> What software are you using. Running a N/A chip with boost is a no-no, especially when you start pushing the flow levels up.


the same shop that is making my tune now made me the other one for N/A


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

vampvr said:


> im using the genesis 415cc, also i live at 7200feet above sea level, im going to pick up my car in a couple hours and then ill check the timing
> 
> 
> 
> the same shop that is making my tune now made me the other one for N/A


I think your issue here is tuning. If your car is a 2.8 24V VR6, you need to ditch that software and injectors and install Bosch 550cc and run a UM STG1+ or STg 2 Tune FI w/ 4" MAF. 

Some people will disagree UM isn't for them, but my UM tune on my Supercharged R32 is running Flawlessly. If you want more information about it, you DO NOT need Standalone. Your car should be making closer to the low 300 HP range. and with the proper 2.4 or 2.62 pulley so you don't roast your bearings on that V9.

if you are near Denver, give Bluewater Performance a call and talk to Gabe.

-Ellery


----------



## vampvr (Apr 13, 2010)

Ok ill change to a 2.4 pulley asap, ill keep the fuel injector but as soon i get cash ill put the bosch ones, ive already pay for the tune so what should i do?

_Posted via *Topify* on Android_


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

If he hasn't installed it yet, get a refund. those injectors are sub par for your goals imo which i suppose doesn't account for much… Put it on ebay as a pkg, tune and injectors etc. Just an idea. 

UM tune is 749 and injectors will be about 300 total. ill need a 4" MAF housing if using the stock MAF. i know its pricy but i think ill get better more desired results. 

-Ellery


----------



## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

BOUDAH said:


> you may be running 10.5 psi, but that doesnt mean ur motor will handle it for long.


This guy...  ive been on 2.5in(10psi) pulley for the past 5 years and making a little over 300whp. Engine is fine after 40k miles. Turbo guys run 12psi all day. bought the s/c used, blew maybe 10k after. Rebuilt it myself and its been fine ever since.


----------



## vampvr (Apr 13, 2010)

Im waiting for a 2.4" pulley, as soon i get it ill make a few runs and check timing

_Posted via *Topify* on Android_


----------



## BlackSwan (Dec 29, 2010)

Lots of misinformation & idiotic **** being posted in this thread!


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

BlackSwan said:


> Lots of misinformation & idiotic **** being posted in this thread!


Idiotic how?? Everything Ive been saying has been a result of tested information on the 3.2 motor. IDk about 12v guys, but Im pretty familiar with the 24v motors regarding what they can and cannot handle.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

mk4vrjtta said:


> This guy...  ive been on 2.5in(10psi) pulley for the past 5 years and making a little over 300whp. Engine is fine after 40k miles. Turbo guys run 12psi all day. bought the s/c used, blew maybe 10k after. Rebuilt it myself and its been fine ever since.


Im talking about a 24v motor, not a 12 V


----------



## vampvr (Apr 13, 2010)

i went to a mile race this sunday and race against a dsg 2.0tsi beetle with stage 2 tune and 3" exhaust no cat and magnaflow muffler, we make the run starting at 20mph, he pulled ahead of me for the first 3gears then i pass him when i hit 4th gear, i only rev it to 6400, his car run 270hp on the dyno and mine only 210hp, we took both cars to the same shop


----------



## vdubb03 (Apr 4, 2010)

someone help me out.. i want more from my charger setup! i have a stage 2 vf kit on my MKIV 24v.. i changed from GIAC software to C2 motorsports stage 2 with #60 630cc injectors recently looked for smaller pulleys was told that is the smallest one.. i haven't done anything else engine wise besides this...i do have a high flow cat, down pipe and exhaust... any help????


----------



## Bouhlee (Nov 27, 2011)

vdubb03 said:


> someone help me out.. i want more from my charger setup! i have a stage 2 vf kit on my MKIV 24v.. i changed from GIAC software to C2 motorsports stage 2 with #60 630cc injectors recently looked for smaller pulleys was told that is the smallest one.. i haven't done anything else engine wise besides this...i do have a high flow cat, down pipe and exhaust... any help????


Talk with boudah 
Nice setup to sale.for 24v 

Louis from TapaTalk


----------



## vdubb03 (Apr 4, 2010)

Bouhlee said:


> Talk with boudah
> Nice setup to sale.for 24v
> 
> Louis from TapaTalk


Thanks, Not looking to buy a whole new set up! just fix it up a bit.. but will look for him


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

vdubb03 said:


> Thanks, Not looking to buy a whole new set up! just fix it up a bit.. but will look for him


PMed


----------



## vampvr (Apr 13, 2010)

hi, i want to change my V9 sc for a V3, do you know how much hps can i get with that charger, thanks.


----------



## jdenney741 (Jul 25, 2009)

New fuel pump needed when installing sc? It's not listed on the to do list but a friend says it needs to be? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

anyone looking for a complete SC kit?
V1 Cogged set up from my Corrado. multiple OBD1 C2 Corrado chips plus a custom Jeff Atwood Tune. 
All brackets, pulleys, etc. 
V1- No leaks, good bearings, brand new SC pulley, polished.
C2 bracketry.
Verdict cogged pulleys. 
SP 9.4:1 spacer
new belt & spare belt
Bosch 044
black powder coated piping & flex tubing for extended MAF placement
nearly new 3" cone filter
tapped pan if needed
Bosch 30# red tops
(basically everything you need) A complete kit, still installed on my Corrado.


----------



## 96MK3VR (Apr 28, 2013)

Going to be picking up a V1 charger in the next week or so. Installing on my 96 VR with 165k on it. Plan is to run it around for the summer and do a full tear down next winter (kind of going backwards but I bought a house this winter). Wanted to hear opinions on running the 16# (claims are 12-14PSI) pulley that the charger is coming with on a cammed motor (no other engine work done) with 440 Green tops and a UM tune. The motor runs like a champ still even with the miles on it. I am also on a stock MK3 head gasket. Should I step down in pulleys and only push 8-10 PSI? This isnt my first trip to the FI rodeo but I have not done so with a VR. Any info is appreciated. 

Also Plan on adding an inline Walbro pump on a toggle to use when im boosting.


----------



## vampvr (Apr 13, 2010)

CorradoMagic said:


> anyone looking for a complete SC kit?
> V1 Cogged set up from my Corrado. multiple OBD1 C2 Corrado chips plus a custom Jeff Atwood Tune.
> All brackets, pulleys, etc.
> V1- No leaks, good bearings, brand new SC pulley, polished.
> ...


How much for the kit?

_Posted via *Topify* on Android_


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

might be selling a R32 / 24 v 400 + hp vortech V3 kit if anyone is interested, air to air intercooler, all stainless piping aluminum core, UM 550 software/injector pkg Aux drive brackets/pulleys. PM if interested.


----------



## jdenney741 (Jul 25, 2009)

Haven't he checked in in a while. 

Vr is not charged yet. I was missing a couple fittings, got those. Then now all I need it my afr gauge. 

The biggest kicker that I haven't been able to wrap my head around is the guy whom was going to install it for me now won't get back to me :banghead: :what: the past 2 times I've tried to go to his shop/house he has blown me off. I hate to piss him off by paying another shop to do it because he's been really helpful in the past and is a guy I find as for the most part a true person and honest guy.

So do I take it to another shop where I can't learn the ins and outs of the charger and pay double the price, or do I try him again. or should I just have my neighbor whom is a great mechanic help me- has built a class 8 prerunner, multiple samdrails, complete turbo systems for his 700hp Cummins diesel and the list goes on. He says with the instructions it should be a weekend job and pretty straight forward?


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

its a pretty easy install. you should try to do it yourself.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

jdenney741 said:


> Haven't he checked in in a while.
> 
> Vr is not charged yet. I was missing a couple fittings, got those. Then now all I need it my afr gauge.
> 
> ...


If you have any questions We can answer them for you, no charge haha. [email protected] or PM me these kits are pretty easy DIY units. 

-Ellery


----------



## jdenney741 (Jul 25, 2009)

I should be starting next weekend. He's been doing a new Billit transmission for his dodge. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MY87GTI (May 14, 2004)

Any one having any issues running c2 stage 1 software running about 10psi on a v9


----------



## 92Lowraddo (Apr 18, 2005)

Ive been running c2 on my v2 between 8 and 14 psi and havent had any issues bwsides the fact that the afr could be a little better


----------



## MY87GTI (May 14, 2004)

What air/fuels u getting


----------



## vToe (Oct 19, 2003)

I drove it around the block before it started getting up to temp and my lower radiator hose popped off. I'd say it's official now. :laugh: :beer:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Looks good Vito!


----------



## MY87GTI (May 14, 2004)

Picture request. I would like a picture of the vf dual idler pully either on or off the motor is fine.


----------



## KeyDub (Jul 11, 2004)

CorradoMagic said:


> anyone looking for a complete SC kit?
> V1 Cogged set up from my Corrado. multiple OBD1 C2 Corrado chips plus a custom Jeff Atwood Tune.
> All brackets, pulleys, etc.
> V1- No leaks, good bearings, brand new SC pulley, polished.
> ...



OG right here, Good Luck with the sale Keith


----------



## 92Lowraddo (Apr 18, 2005)

What is the longest trip you guys have ever taken your supercharged vr on?
I am planning in going to waterfest this year, about an 8 hour ride. Ive taken the car a couple times but never since I installed the charger.


----------



## websaabn (May 23, 2003)

I did non stop from abilene Tx to OC MD in the wifes carbiolet, took 22hrs


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

92Lowraddo said:


> What is the longest trip you guys have ever taken your supercharged vr on?
> I am planning in going to waterfest this year, about an 8 hour ride. Ive taken the car a couple times but never since I installed the charger.


I drive the 3-4 hour trip to NJ every few weekends.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

92Lowraddo said:


> What is the longest trip you guys have ever taken your supercharged vr on?
> I am planning in going to waterfest this year, about an 8 hour ride. Ive taken the car a couple times but never since I installed the charger.


7700 miles in 11 days doing the AKA Rally in 2007.


----------



## 92Lowraddo (Apr 18, 2005)

So i guess i should be alright then, especially just cruising the turnpike.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

92Lowraddo said:


> So i guess i should be alright then, especially just cruising the turnpike.


yes


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

Since i get no love in the VRT thread and u all love ur 12v's ill whore the R32 some more.


----------



## jdenney741 (Jul 25, 2009)

BOUDAH said:


> Since i get no love in the VRT thread and u all love ur 12v's ill whore the R32 some more.


God I wish. I'm having trouble wth my 12v let alone an R 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

hey guys havent been on in a long time. finally got my car out of storage and spent some time wrenching on it today. i changed all my pulleys out to the gruven parts light weight kit. took my alinator to get tested and put it all back together and made it 6 miles before i snapped my belt again....ive been fighting this for almost a year now. im not sure what else i can do. ive lowered the amount of tension a lot, changed pulleys, rebuilt my charger i just dont know what else i can do. p/s and water pump spin freely. v9 charger. i just dont know what else to do, im ready to tear the damn thing out and put a turbo in if i cant have it up and going this summer. so any ideas/ imput would be great thanks!


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

Supercharged R32's


----------



## napkin (Mar 8, 2008)




----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

Exit 9 Supercharger kits e9performance.com


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MK3.OT (May 4, 2010)

12V AAA


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

^ nice


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

had to make room for the filter, now that I'm running megasquirt not worried about having the maf too close to the charger causing issues like some had experienced with drop-in chips.


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

cool. now that you are mafless, be sure to run a good high flow bov. I was going to go with a procharger bov but they are pretty steep. I ended up going with a tial q 50mm with their 2 psi supercharger spring.


----------



## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

anyone looking for a complete SC kit?
V1 Cogged set up from my Corrado. multiple OBD1 C2 Corrado chips plus a custom Jeff Atwood Tune. 
All brackets, pulleys, etc. 
V1- No leaks, good bearings, brand new SC pulley, polished.
C2 bracketry.
Verdict cogged pulleys. 
SP 9.4:1 spacer
new belt & spare belt
Bosch 044
VF-E DV
silicone coupler & SS T-bolt clamps
black powder coated piping & flex tubing for extended MAF placement
nearly new 3" cone filter
tapped pan if needed
SS braided -4 fee line & fitting
-10SS braided return line & fittings
Bosch 30# red tops
(basically everything you need) A complete kit, still installed on my Corrado.




KeyDub said:


> OG right here, Good Luck with the sale Keith



thanks man. Kit is starting at $3000. head spacer, 044 w/ USRT harness, Stewart Warner gauge & Rado Single Pod are additional.

the longest I've done was 500mi in 1 day. Upstate n back.
or LI to Killington, LI to Syr area, LI to H20, etc.


----------



## ATLVR6 (Nov 20, 2003)

What is the benefit of a high flow bov versus the diverter valve that I already have installed? I ask because I too am maf-less.


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

ATLVR6 said:


> What is the benefit of a high flow bov versus the diverter valve that I already have installed? I ask because I too am maf-less.


I am on cogs so that was my first concern. With cogs there is no belt slip that typically allows for some pressure relief during mid to high rpm throttle closed situations such as shifting gears.
With a serp belt you should not cause any damage to the charger without a high flow diverter or bov but I have noticed that partial throttle acceleration feels better. whenever that dv is closed and the throttle body is closed or only partially open the supercharger is acting like a mechanical brake. It robs you of power when you are not in boost, which is most of the time driving on the street. 

Also, diverter valves designed for turbos have pretty high spring rates. They tend to stay closed until a high vacuum is reached. This is not optimum for a centri-supercharger. The most efficient way is to run a dv or bov that is designed to work with superchargers. These units will be open at all times except when vaccum drops to near 0. My bov is open while cruising and only closes at half throttle or more. its a little loud but you can feel the difference.

To sum up all that ^ A bov or dv designed for SC's will be easier on the SC, engine, and result is less heat generated.
There is a vid of my bov here:

https://www.facebook.com/Supercharger.Innovations?ref=hl


----------



## ATLVR6 (Nov 20, 2003)

I'm looking to go with a cogged setup as well. And you and I have swapped emails earlier this year about that, but I need an AC setup. But with regard to the diverter/bov valve, if the advantage is extension of the life of my charger then I'm all for it. Especially considering that I'd like to go with a cogged setup, it can only help. And it sounds awesome by the way.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

naysayers said:


> I am on cogs so that was my first concern. With cogs there is no belt slip that typically allows for some pressure relief during mid to high rpm throttle closed situations such as shifting gears.
> With a serp belt you should not cause any damage to the charger without a high flow diverter or bov but I have noticed that partial throttle acceleration feels better. whenever that dv is closed and the throttle body is closed or only partially open the supercharger is acting like a mechanical brake. It robs you of power when you are not in boost, which is most of the time driving on the street.
> 
> Also, diverter valves designed for turbos have pretty high spring rates. They tend to stay closed until a high vacuum is reached. This is not optimum for a centri-supercharger. The most efficient way is to run a dv or bov that is designed to work with superchargers. These units will be open at all times except when vaccum drops to near 0. My bov is open while cruising and only closes at half throttle or more. its a little loud but you can feel the difference.
> ...


Iw as cogged with a Mondo diverter valve. 2" 60 mm in/out. but the BOV is a good option too.


----------



## 92Lowraddo (Apr 18, 2005)

Finally running in Lug and waiting for a final tune. Seems to run great once its warmed up but the idle is surging during warmup. 
It seems to be caused by the IAC but still trying to figure out how to adjust those settings...


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

wow looks good.


----------



## napkin (Mar 8, 2008)

92Lowraddo said:


> Finally running in Lug and waiting for a final tune. Seems to run great once its warmed up but the idle is surging during warmup.
> It seems to be caused by the IAC but still trying to figure out how to adjust those settings...



but will cause problems running the valve post MAF. go with a hard spring. otherwise the car will run to rich in idle and after shifting.
normaly you need to recycle it to the intake. or do you run free squirt?


----------



## 92Lowraddo (Apr 18, 2005)

It is tuned in pretty well now. There is no maf with lugtronic. You do not want to run a higher spring with a charger and especially with cogs unless you want to risk going through charger seals and belts.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

92Lowraddo said:


> It is tuned in pretty well now. There is no maf with lugtronic. You do not want to run a higher spring with a charger and especially with cogs unless you want to risk going through charger seals and belts.


why do u say charger seals?


----------



## 92Lowraddo (Apr 18, 2005)

BOUDAH said:


> why do u say charger seals?


Well I would assume that if the throttle plate is closed at idle or decel, there would be some compressor surge of the bov spring rate was too high... causeing a lot of boost to surge back and ruin bearings, oil seals... with a non cogged setup, the belt can actually slip during these conditions so the stress isnt all on the charger....


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

92Lowraddo said:


> Well I would assume that if the throttle plate is closed at idle or decel, there would be some compressor surge of the bov spring rate was too high... causeing a lot of boost to surge back and ruin bearings, oil seals... with a non cogged setup, the belt can actually slip during these conditions so the stress isnt all on the charger....


i can see bearings, but seals are rubber and didnt think how these would be "ruined" Maybe Im confused as to what you and Carlicious / Napkin are referring to. If youre using a BOV, why would this create a surge. Im running a Mondo  valve ( Diaphram ) from Vortech and although its a Diverter, it can be run atmospheric. 

-Ellery


----------



## 4pekatt (Sep 9, 2013)

Hey guys!

I have installed a VF-Engineering 10-PSI kit with internal oil (No oil from engine)

My problem is that when for example put the car in fifth and drive at around 1800 rpms, it will start "coughing" and running bad - If I then accelerate, all hell breaks loose in the tachometer, and I have to clutch to stop the madness. A downshift to fourth will do the trick. 

What may this be caused by?


----------



## 4pekatt (Sep 9, 2013)

Drove a while today - The engine "cough" / unstabilities happen periodically and seems to happen under 3000 rpms when i use the throttle. Almost as if there insufficient air or fuel


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Simple check; 
See if you have any air leaks, and that any silcone couples aren't compressing on themselves.

My friend had a long silicone coupler on his boosted car, and under hard throttle it would collapse and the car would struggle.
Otherwise, make sure you're getting fuel. If you've got an old FPR it may be toast.

Also, make sure your MAF is facing the right way.


----------



## 4pekatt (Sep 9, 2013)

FPR is almost new, and MAF is the right way.

I dont think the MAF is ruined, because I can drive perfectly for 15 minutes, but then there is 15 seconds to a minute of the engine having spasms when I accelerate. I will run a diagnosis tomorrow.

I appreciate any further input :-/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 4pekatt (Sep 9, 2013)

Just a thought - As you all know, oil is NO good for the air mass sensor. The current setup is a pipe that goes from the crankcase breather, into the lower intake pipe. This means small amounts of oil will go through there, right? And JUST unterneath my lower intake pipe, is the air mass sensor - That might be what is causing my cough?

Any thoughts on this?


Also, I did some further investigation. The problems comes about every 10-15 minutes. It seems like tha car goes into "Emergency mode", because if I release the clutch and floor the pedal I dont get above 3000 rpm. If I floor the pedal with the clutch enganged, the car starts shaking like a mechanical bull. All I have to do to "reset" this is to release the clutch, let the RPM settle at idle, and engage the clutch again - Then the engine runs like a purring kitten for another period of time. 

A friend of mine suggests ignition problems - I am using OEM leads and NEW Bosch FC3S plugs - I was recommended to swap them for NGK BKR7E plugs, and I also think about investing in high performance 10mm leads. 

Thoughts? I need all the help I can get


----------



## 4pekatt (Sep 9, 2013)

Case update!

00533 - Idle Speed Regulation 
10-10 - Adaptation Limit Not Reached

This is a fault I am reading from my car.. it was intermittent, which means "old". But it was NOT there last time, so I think this is the thing causing issues for me. How do I solve it?


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

New piping, Will be finishing this up and redoing the rest of the bay soon ish.

-Ellery


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

Whats everyone running for oil feed and return? Is there a "standard" setup everyone uses? I picked up a v1 vortech kit for my 12v but it did not come with feed or return lines


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

APCXxstovetopxX said:


> Whats everyone running for oil feed and return? Is there a "standard" setup everyone uses? I picked up a v1 vortech kit for my 12v but it did not come with feed or return lines


I run -AN lines.. the Return is a 3/8 NPT so i got a 3/8 to -8AN adapter to a -8an bung welded to the pan and the injector fitting to the blower i got a -4 an adapter and run that to my oil filter housing.


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

What boost or power levels are you guys seeing the need for a fuel pump upgrade? I'm running megasquirt and I'm clearly running out of fuel above 6k at 14lbs.... Not sure if my stock pump is just weak or I need to supplement. 
Thanks guys. 

V2 @14-15psi, 450cc inj, 262cams, only 2.25" exhaust


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

You're probably going to want to get a fuel pump, and exhaust...


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Exhaust is on hold until the motor finds it's new home. The biggest thing holding me back right now is traction. I need a different wheel/tire setup and install my LSD trans I have collecting dust in my garage


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

youll need an inline pump at that psi. I ran out of fuel at 12psi. ran a walbro 190lph unit. worked perfect. your exhaust is choking you up. I ran .5 sec quicker in the 1/4 mile by ditching my magnaflow 2.25"system for a 3"system. yes, it made that much of a difference. I tried an lsd, corrado trans, and slicks. car just wouldn't go faster. that exhaust started to leak, spent the cash on a 3", no other changes. .5 quicker. that's saying something


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Alright sounds good. I plan on going bigger with the exhaust for sure. It's a slow process haha. I wish I lived at home still, I could have all this done years ago


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

first start! no maf and stock chip since my c2 chip was bad and took out my spare ecu with it :facepalm: 

I love how the whine sounds because of the lumpy cams haha


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

Sounds awesome


----------



## Yareka (Mar 5, 2002)

which cams?


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

As far as i can tell they are TT 276 , i had to measure cam lobes and go off idle characteristics since they are not labeled and the previous owner did not know


----------



## swiftrabbit (Sep 6, 2010)

Hi All. I just picked up a MKIV R32 with the VF Stage 3 kit (dedicated pulley). Any one know the part number or source for the idler pulley on the VF stage 3 kit? I've got a badly worn idler with play, and VF has not responded yet.


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

That pulley looks like it may be user serviceable. Is there a snap ring on the back holding the bearings in? If so you can swap the bearings.


----------



## swiftrabbit (Sep 6, 2010)

Yes, there is a snap ring, but that bolt has flanges on both sides. Is it an integrated bearing? The pulley itself has a flat spot and is quite worn, so I thought I'd replace the whole thing if possible. I believe it has nearly 60k miles on it! I'm assuming that the belt was loose a one point and the bearing seized causing the flat spot.

My pulley has a 2.25" diameter and 1.75" width. An extensive search has led me to a Vortech pulley 4FK016-021, but I can't find any specs on it. It was superseded by part# 4FK116-021, which I do not see specs on either.


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

I have one of those vortech pulleys around, I can take some measurements if you like. I can also rebuild your current pulley and resurface it on my lathe. PM me


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

i 3rd the suggestion to rebuild it. i had a customers care on the lift needing that part replaced and VF was no help so i ended up taking it apart, replacing the bearings and off the car went good as new.


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

APCXxstovetopxX said:


> As far as i can tell they are TT 276 , i had to measure cam lobes and go off idle characteristics since they are not labeled and the previous owner did not know



Changing my previous statement, after some trouble shooting a large vacuum leak was found, car now idles much smoother and i suspect the cams to be autotech 262


Secondly i blew up my first trans in less then 30min , the diff pun went through the case in 3rd at full throttle. Replaced the trans and it has been ok for about 150miles so far


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

Update : trans is still holding up, took it to the track last night on my 185/60/14 street tires to atleast get a rough idea of what it can do , ran a best of 13.3 at 107 spinning all of first , installing a boost gauge and wideband this week and i have to change a couple things like moving the maf away from the charger , reinstalling my iat sensor and i want to regap the plugs

http://youtu.be/WsldrWnrrFg


----------



## swiftrabbit (Sep 6, 2010)

swiftrabbit said:


> Hi All. I just picked up a MKIV R32 with the VF Stage 3 kit (dedicated pulley). Any one know the part number or source for the idler pulley on the VF stage 3 kit? I've got a badly worn idler with play, and VF has not responded yet.



FYI: I was able to find the part number 4FK116-021 (4FK016-021) from Vortech and the help from this board. Due to the flat spot on the pulley itself, I just bought a new one. It is a serviceable part though. Pic below for reference.

Thanks for all your help!


----------



## vdubxcrew (Jul 25, 2004)

Would a Forge Supersize diverter valve be overkill for a cogged V3 charger running 12-14psi?


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

vdubxcrew said:


> Would a Forge Supersize diverter valve be overkill for a cogged V3 charger running 12-14psi?


That should be ok. You have to remember that with a centri-SC on cogs, you need a pretty large DV or BOV to allow enough CFM to escape or bypass in situations where the throttle plate is closed at high rpm. Un-like a turbo, the SC is mechanically tied to the engine RPM so it will continue to kick out the same CFM regardless of throttle position at a given RPM. That's the reason you see multiple BOV's on large charger equipped drag and street cars. 

I run a single 50mm tial Q BOV because I have stand alone but before that I was running a mad max DV and still could hear some compressor surge when I did high rpm shifts.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

vdubxcrew said:


> Would a Forge Supersize diverter valve be overkill for a cogged V3 charger running 12-14psi?


Not Ovekill at ALL if anything its Under kill, lol You really should be using a Vortech Mondo valve tho if ur Cogged.


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Naysayer: does the tial unit seem adequate to you? I'm in the market for a bov but am unsure at this point which one to go with. The mondo valve is a nice piece but for over $300 it seems like money could be better spent elsewhere. 
Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Das Vdub (Feb 15, 2005)

Figured this would be a good thread to post up a nice start to a supercharger setup for a Vr6. I am selling a BRAND NEW Vortech V5 charger, Rheinland Technic Vr6 Bracket, and AMS tuned OBD2 Vr6 ECU. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...new-Vortech-V5-12V-VR6-Bracket-and-AMS-tuning


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

youlostme21 said:


> Naysayer: does the tial unit seem adequate to you? I'm in the market for a bov but am unsure at this point which one to go with. The mondo valve is a nice piece but for over $300 it seems like money could be better spent elsewhere.
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I struggled with the same dilemma, I like the size of the mondo but its pricy. I felt that since the tial was 50mm and had an optimized air flow design, it would fit the bill. They also sell a supercharger spring to use with the unit that allows very low vacuum opening. As far as function, it moves a lot of air, much more than my mad max valve did. I can see in my logs also that it releases quickly with little to no compressor surge during high rpm shifts and decelerations. I highly recommend it for cogged sc applications. In extreme cases, two may be needed.


----------



## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

Anyone running this kit? I am curious if anyone is running that charger on a 2.8 24v vr6 and what kind of #'s can be expected. I contacted them on pricing for just the charger, brackets, and oil lines.as i already have 630cc injectors and a SRI. Just need IC and custom IC piping. 

http://www.hpamotorsports.com/vr6-typhoon.html

Thanks!
Tim


Also - just saw a few 24v vrs and looks like they mount the SC off the motor mount. Is there a way to mount a 24v SC setup like a mk3? I have my 24v in my Corrado so I am using those mounts instead.


----------



## vdubxcrew (Jul 25, 2004)

Das Vdub said:


> Figured this would be a good thread to post up a nice start to a supercharger setup for a Vr6. I am selling a BRAND NEW Vortech V5 charger, Rheinland Technic Vr6 Bracket, and AMS tuned OBD2 Vr6 ECU.
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...new-Vortech-V5-12V-VR6-Bracket-and-AMS-tuning


Anyone know if this V5 will work with the Rheinland bracket? I thought the typical brackets only fit V1, V2 and V3 chargers.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

1broknrado said:


> Anyone running this kit? I am curious if anyone is running that charger on a 2.8 24v vr6 and what kind of #'s can be expected. I contacted them on pricing for just the charger, brackets, and oil lines.as i already have 630cc injectors and a SRI. Just need IC and custom IC piping.
> 
> http://www.hpamotorsports.com/vr6-typhoon.html
> 
> ...


Pmed u bud.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

you guys should look into this thread http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...icial-Supercharged-R32-owners-vortex-registry


----------



## Das Vdub (Feb 15, 2005)

vdubxcrew said:


> Anyone know if this V5 will work with the Rheinland bracket? I thought the typical brackets only fit V1, V2 and V3 chargers.


It does, I purchased both from items directly from Rheinland.


----------



## DumpedDub (Sep 16, 2004)

Looking for belt size for v2 set up its a single idler 2.87 pulley no ps or ac thanks in advance


----------



## 4pekatt (Sep 9, 2013)

I am suffering from a boost leak on my setup. I recently had to change one of the vaacum lines on the idle-regulation system.
I replaced the hose, thinking that the boost leaks would go away, but there are still some.

While the hose was broken, I would hear "hissing" from the engine at idle. When I replaced the hose, the hissing disappeared. 

However, when I get in the car and start driving, it sounds like someone is using a blowing-gun (from an industrial compressor) in my engine bay. I cannot find the source, since I am unable to hear the sound when the car is revving in neutral.

This leak is so bad, that under FULL THROTTLE I still have vacuum in my intake manifold.

As a comparison, it sounds like the recirculation valve is open all the time. (But it is vacuum operated from the intake manifold, so I doubt it.)


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

4pekatt said:


> I am suffering from a boost leak on my setup. I recently had to change one of the vaacum lines on the idle-regulation system.
> I replaced the hose, thinking that the boost leaks would go away, but there are still some.
> 
> While the hose was broken, I would hear "hissing" from the engine at idle. When I replaced the hose, the hissing disappeared.
> ...


One way to help find the leak would be to disconnect the vac line to your diverter valve so that it stops recirculation. This would allow more air to be pushed into the intake and associated tract so that the leak may be found more easily. *DO NOT* drive the car with the DV vac line disconnected!


----------



## 4pekatt (Sep 9, 2013)

Thank you.

Thats a great tip, actually. 

Out of curiosity, what happens if you drive with the DV vacum line disconnected?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

4pekatt said:


> Thank you.
> 
> Thats a great tip, actually.
> 
> ...


It causes a lot of compressor surge. The end result can be broken fins on the compressor wheel or other damages internal to the sc. Vortech says you can get away without using a dv up to 6 psi but its best to be safe rather than sorry.

Good luck with the hunt.


----------



## 4pekatt (Sep 9, 2013)

Thanks. I will be sure to avoid reving too much while hunting.

I'll let you know how it goes.


----------



## 4pekatt (Sep 9, 2013)

Hi again.

Disconnecting the DV did not help me.. I cant seem to shake the feeling that that the air is leaking into the exhaust. When I rev the engine, I can hear "hissing" from the exhaust system. (i have an exhaust leak by the cat).

Almost as if one of my intake valves are broken, or something like that..

But the engine would run like crap then right? It purrs like a kitten on idle.

I will try to drive with the DV disconnected, but keeping the boost LOW (If I get any at all).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## vwfotos94 (Nov 1, 2010)

*mk4 headgasket*

Who is running a mk4 head gasket with any problems? will be running tt 264 cams, v2 charger with a 12psi pulley.. 42# software and injectors


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

vwfotos94 said:


> Who is running a mk4 head gasket with any problems? will be running tt 264 cams, v2 charger with a 12psi pulley.. 42# software and injectors


you wont have any issues related to the mk4 headgasket.


----------



## vwfotos94 (Nov 1, 2010)

scirockin16v said:


> you wont have any issues related to the mk4 headgasket.


Thank you Jory!


----------



## vToe (Oct 19, 2003)

vwfotos94 said:


> Who is running a mk4 head gasket with any problems? will be running tt 264 cams, v2 charger with a 12psi pulley.. 42# software and injectors


When you say head gasket I assume you also mean head spacer?


----------



## vwfotos94 (Nov 1, 2010)

vToe said:


> When you say head gasket I assume you also mean head spacer?


No I mean just a mk4 headgasket


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

vwfotos94 said:


> No I mean just a mk4 headgasket


I assume you have a 12v 2.8?


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

I'm running a mk4 gasket in a very similar setup with no issues


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## vwfotos94 (Nov 1, 2010)

youlostme21 said:


> I'm running a mk4 gasket in a very similar setup with no issues
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Just a mk4 headgasket correct no headspacer? How much power are you making on your setup


----------



## 4pekatt (Sep 9, 2013)

Guys!

Are there diverter valves that are designed to make noise?

Not like a BOV that goes choo-choo, but a much more distinct "hiss" than what my current almost silent diverter valve makes 

I want some noise when I let the throttle off ;-)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

hay guys, for the ones using a v1 charger and AC .......... you can finally have COGS!!.... i will be installing mine shortly and.... just thinking of the boost being consistent and not stressing everything belt driven is already starting to ease my fears of issues when taking road trips. 










:beer::beer::beer:

got the parts from these guys

*supercharger innovations*


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

vwfotos94 said:


> Just a mk4 headgasket correct no headspacer? How much power are you making on your setup


Yea no spacer. Not sure on power, never dynoed. I'm running 262's and see about 15lbs. Running megasquirt standalone. It's enough power to make 1st and second gear useless at full throttle haha. 205/40r16 probably isn't helping that either though. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 92Lowraddo (Apr 18, 2005)

carsluTT said:


> hay guys, for the ones using a v1 charger and AC .......... you can finally have COGS!!.... i will be installing mine shortly and.... just thinking of the boost being consistent and not stressing everything belt driven is already starting to ease my fears of issues when taking road trips.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice man! Mike is an awesome guy to work with. You will be very pleased with the cogged setup.


----------



## vampvr (Apr 13, 2010)

Hi, what do you think of this kit with a v3 and a powercooler that we make?


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

hay "vampvr" lets see how your driving that driver-side mounted charger setup.


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

^ I really like the passenger side mounted chargers. it really frees up some room and solves some issues.
maybe I should look into building a bracket and drive shaft and try it out.


----------



## vToe (Oct 19, 2003)

vampvr said:


> Hi, what do you think of this kit with a v3 and a powercooler that we make?


Def an outside of the box setup. 

Is it fully tensioned in the pic? Vortech requires within 45° of vertical left and right for oil control and drain back.

Edit: just realized you said v3. I honestly don't know if orientation matters as much. I know the cases are slightly different for more oil capacity since they're self contained. Our v3 setup utilizes the typical v1/v2 brackets so orientation is unchanged and this was never a thought. 

-Vito


----------



## vampvr (Apr 13, 2010)

vToe said:


> Def an outside of the box setup.
> 
> Is it fully tensioned in the pic? Vortech requires within 45° of vertical left and right for oil control and drain back.
> 
> ...


Yes its fully tensioned, right now its running with a 6psi pulley and were going with 16psi next week, also were going to use a 8.5:1 head spacer, the only thing that hasnt been tested yet up to 16psi is the drive shaft


----------



## trh1157 (Nov 29, 2013)

*Noob with new car*

Recently bought a 2002 mkiv 24v vr6 gti with v9 sc from vf. Car has 50,000 miles and sc has close to 40,000 miles. New to VW's, superchargers and don't have much experience working on cars. Things may be getting difficult or at the least interesting. I've only gotten through about 20 pages of this thread and will continue on.

I have all the records from the car since day 1 and the PO was changing the MAF about every 2,500 miles for the past 10,000 miles. Paying the dealer almost $400 each time! I think the MAF is beginning to act up again. Seems like performance is a little reduced, some occasional "bucking" and tonight the car sputtered and died but started right back up. On the local Pacific Northwest thread another Vortex member recommended I move the MAF because it gets to hot sitting right next to the supercharger and supercharger discharge tube. I just want to find the MAF first  try cleaning it and replacing it if needed using the 2.0 MAF. I haven't started to take anything apart yet and am looking for a few (maybe a lot - time will tell) pointers/advice.

1) Is the maf connected to the sc intake tube right after the air filter (which is mostly straight tube running down in front of the left tire)?

2) Will the intake/air filter lift out of the fender well after removing the flexible tubing from the supercharer intake opening?

3) Will the MAF wiring allow it to be lifted out without disconnecting?

4) Do i need to take the bumper and/or left fender off to access the air filter and MAF?

5) Recommendations for possible thread with tips for removing the fender/bumper from a mkiv?

6) Possible tips for relocating the air intake/filter/maf?

7) In time I may try to increase air flow/boost by changing pulleys, injectors (if needed) and adding awic from frozen boost. I am assuming car is running GIAC that came with vf kit. If system is upgraded as indicated above I will likely need a new tune? Any tune recommended for boost increase to 8 -10 psi? (need to put gauge in first don't know what current boost level is) Any tunes set up to allow MAF to be installed after sc?

That is probably more than enough questions for now and thanks for any hep or suggestions.


----------



## trh1157 (Nov 29, 2013)

*Noob with new car*

Recently bought a 2002 mkiv 24v vr6 gti with v9 sc from vf. Car has 50,000 miles and sc has close to 40,000 miles. New to VW's, superchargers and don't have much experience working on cars. Things may be getting difficult or at the least interesting. I've only gotten through about 20 pages of this thread and will continue on.

I have all the records from the car since day 1 and the PO was changing the MAF about every 2,500 miles for the past 10,000 miles. Paying the dealer almost $400 each time! I think the MAF is beginning to act up again. Seems like performance is a little reduced, some occasional "bucking" and tonight the car sputtered and died but started right back up. On the local Pacific Northwest thread another Vortex member recommended I move the MAF because it gets to hot sitting right next to the supercharger and supercharger discharge tube. I just want to find the MAF first  try cleaning it and replacing it if needed using the 2.0 MAF. I haven't started to take anything apart yet and am looking for a few (maybe a lot - time will tell) pointers/advice.

1) Is the maf connected to the sc intake tube right after the air filter (which is mostly straight tube running down in front of the right/passenger tire)?

2) Will the intake/air filter lift out of the fender well after removing the flexible tubing from the supercharer intake opening?

3) Will the MAF wiring allow it to be lifted out without disconnecting?

4) Do i need to take the bumper and/or left fender off to access the air filter and MAF?

5) Recommendations for possible thread with tips for removing the fender/bumper from a mkiv?

6) Possible tips for relocating the air intake/filter/maf?

7) In time I may try to increase air flow/boost by changing pulleys, injectors (if needed) and adding awic from frozen boost. I am assuming car is running GIAC that came with vf kit. If system is upgraded as indicated above I will likely need a new tune? Any tune recommended for boost increase to 8 -10 psi? (need to put gauge in first don't know what current boost level is) Any tunes set up to allow MAF to be installed after sc?

That is probably more than enough questions for now and thanks for any hep or suggestions.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

trh1157 said:


> Recently bought a 2002 mkiv 24v vr6 gti with v9 sc from vf. Car has 50,000 miles and sc has close to 40,000 miles. New to VW's, superchargers and don't have much experience working on cars. Things may be getting difficult or at the least interesting. I've only gotten through about 20 pages of this thread and will continue on.
> 
> I have all the records from the car since day 1 and the PO was changing the MAF about every 2,500 miles for the past 10,000 miles. Paying the dealer almost $400 each time! I think the MAF is beginning to act up again. Seems like performance is a little reduced, some occasional "bucking" and tonight the car sputtered and died but started right back up. On the local Pacific Northwest thread another Vortex member recommended I move the MAF because it gets to hot sitting right next to the supercharger and supercharger discharge tube. I just want to find the MAF first  try cleaning it and replacing it if needed using the 2.0 MAF. I haven't started to take anything apart yet and am looking for a few (maybe a lot - time will tell) pointers/advice.
> 
> ...



Read through this thread http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...icial-Supercharged-R32-owners-vortex-registry



Before attempting anything remove the bumper. Your MAF is getting killed for one of two reasons or both;. The VF STG 2 kits had a Catch can to vent the crankcase gases filtering from the can to the top elbow into the Supercharger inlet. The purpose like the OEM version is to suck the vapor back through the intake stream burning it off. Well instead it jsut leaks down the tube on the MAF sensor, killing it. Do yourself a favor and remove the extra tube from the can to the 45* elbow on the plastic inlet tube. U can use a Bolt in its stead as its threaded. Just empty the can from now on when it gets full

If this IS NOT the ISSUE. then remove the plastic intake tube. When you pull the bumper off, you will see why it was important to remove it. You will need to disconnect the diverter tubes to the inlet pipe and the MAF housing and silicon to the supercharger inlet. If there is ol in there around the blades, you could possibly have leaking seals and this could be another issue with the blower and leaking oil onto your MAF. 

Feel free tom PM w/ any further questions.


----------



## trh1157 (Nov 29, 2013)

BOUDAH said:


> Read through this thread http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...icial-Supercharged-R32-owners-vortex-registry
> 
> Thanks for the info. Hope to get car in garage this weekend - gotta clear stuff out. Great thread reference above - was going to wait until I finished reading this one but got started on the .:R thread and read it start to finish. Wanted to get an .:R before I bought the GTI but couldn't find an sc'd one, with low miles, in good shape, local, etc. and, most importantly, within the budget. Tim.


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

Got my car dynoed! 307whp!

Setup:
12v vr 
Arp rod bolts
262 cams
Hd springs
Mk4 hg
Gutted and rewelded upper manifold gasket matched
Lower intake gasket matched
#42 injectors and software from c2
255lph inline pump
3" exhaust
Factory , ported exhaust manifold
Vortech v1 with 2.87 pulley (11psi at 7k)


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

Nice numbers. Pretty spot on for the mods. You should see a 12 second pass in that thing. I got a heavy mk3 jetta to go 12.5 with just drag radials and the same power.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

Awesome i would really like to pull a 12.0 out of it ! It will be going under the knife this winter , possibly smaller pulley with a HG spacer and arp head studs, but i know for sure i want to do 62k bearing and a rebuild on the charger for good measure


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

Good to see someone still messing with a charger on a 12v. I am probably one of the biggest fans of supercharged vr6s out there. Unless the caris light though I don't see a 12.0 at that power level. Running mid 12's is pretty straightforward but anything quicker takes some dedication and experimentation. Best of luck though. 

As for your winter plans - ARP head bolts are a waste on any vr. I don't really recommend smaller than a 2.87" pulley either as the result is typically more belt slip and extra stress on all the belt driven components for not a whole lot more boost. I would leave the compression and pulley alone and just work on the rest of the car. Dialing it on the track is going to make a bigger difference than those mods might.


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

vw1320 said:


> Good to see someone still messing with a charger on a 12v. I am probably one of the biggest fans of supercharged vr6s out there. Unless the caris light though I don't see a 12.0 at that power level. Running mid 12's is pretty straightforward but anything quicker takes some dedication and experimentation. Best of luck though.
> 
> As for your winter plans - ARP head bolts are a waste on any vr. I don't really recommend smaller than a 2.87" pulley either as the result is typically more belt slip and extra stress on all the belt driven components for not a whole lot more boost. I would leave the compression and pulley alone and just work on the rest of the car. Dialing it on the track is going to make a bigger difference than those mods might.


Im a dual idler setup so i dont forsee belt slip to be an issue but who knows, i hit the track for the first time on the slicks since i added the charger, completely different animal now, either bogged or spun, when i was n/a every launch was perfect. My best was a 12.7 at 110 tonight, only got 3 passes in. I need alot more seat time with the new clutch, trans and slicks


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

What size slicks ? What trans and clutch setup? How much does the car weigh? 110 mph should be good for a mid 12 or lower. Unfortunately all my old slips are no longer hosted but I went [email protected] on radials the first time I went to the track and a [email protected] or so the second time. I believe the car was around 2650 with me in it back then.


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

vw1320 said:


> What size slicks ? What trans and clutch setup? How much does the car weigh? 110 mph should be good for a mid 12 or lower. Unfortunately all my old slips are no longer hosted but I went [email protected] on radials the first time I went to the track and a [email protected] or so the second time. I believe the car was around 2650 with me in it back then.


22x8x15 slicks, o2a stock with a quaife, xtd stage 3 6puck , no idea what it weighs. I think the car has a 12.2 in it atleast, that 12.7 was spinning the slicks at a high 1.9 60' , if i could pull a 1.6 or 1.7 60' it would be a 12.2


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

I always liked those tires. As you said seat time is key. Get a decent low pressure gauge and start around 9.5-9psi and work your way down in .5-.25 psi increments. If I remember correctly the sweet spot is around 8psi but every setup will be different.


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

Ok guys i changed my maf sensor to a known good one (into the 4" housing) and plugged in my IAT (was unplugged after the charger install) and since i did that my AFR went from 10.5-11.0 at WOT to ~12.0 at WOT . It feels fine but idk if that is safe , im running a 2.87 pulley at 11psi at redline. C2 software


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

Perfect...

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


----------



## vdubxcrew (Jul 25, 2004)

What max PSI would a 3.25 pulley make with a V5 charger?


----------



## bij678 (Oct 7, 2014)

*honey comb flow straightner*

I want 4 inch dia honey comb straightener for fitting in a 4 inch pipe for my project. Reply asap with bill of material


----------



## 92Lowraddo (Apr 18, 2005)

bij678 said:


> I want 4 inch dia honey comb straightener for fitting in a 4 inch pipe for my project. Reply asap with bill of material


Saxonpc.com carries a bunch of air flow straighteners.


----------



## lilrabbitGTi95 (May 23, 2009)

Howdy folks, posting here just to subscribe and get my foot in the door for questions I'm sure I'll have here soon. I've been preparing myself and my car for a supercharger for quite some time. I just recently finished the motor build and have been working out the kinks since installing it, and getting some miles on it NA before I boost. In the mean time I've been gathering info, parts, and reference for when the big day comes. 

My engine is built as follows: 

Stock bottom end with just ARP hardware and new bearings
MK4 headgasket
Schimmel Performance Ported/polished head
Schrick 263 cams
GIAC cam specific chip
Peloquin LSD for the drive-train side of things. 

About 1000 miles on that motor so far, still fixing coolant leaks, and being overly critical of every little noise it makes. I think the motor is good honestly, I'm just still very on edge about everything, questioning my on build. 

In the way of forced induction I got a good deal on a used kit for a Vortech V1. It came with the charger, all the brackets, #30 injectors, oil lines, a bunch of intake piping, air filter, etc. Everything except for software, basically. 

Plan is to go with c2 #30 tune, a 95mm maf, 3 inch pulley, and some fancy routing of the piping and call it good to start with. The car is already no slouch, hoping to make it into the 300 club farther down the road with new injectors, tune, and fuel pump. 

Anywho, just stopping in to say hello and learn. Awesome thread you guys have going here, happy I can finally contribute.


----------



## vwfotos94 (Nov 1, 2010)

*Vortech V2 Charger setup*

Hey guys, I just resently picked up a vortech v2 kit that has a 12# pulley on it which would be a 2.75" correct? The guy i got it from was running ac which i am not running and i was wondering what and where i could get a new belt from? i am also not running powersteering. Also i was wondering what DV/ Bov you some of you were running on your setups. 

What my setup is going to look it: 


Stock Bottom end 
ported intake and exhaust 
268 techtonics cams
Mk4 headgasket
vortech v2 charger with 2.75 pulley
42# software and injetors 
4inch maf


Also i was wondering how far and how you guys ran your intake/maf housing.

Thank you!


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Here's all the belt info I've gathered in regard to legacy 12v motors using V1/2 blowers.
I repeat, V1 & V2 blowers. *NOT V9*


```
No a/c, single idler, 2.87" 6 rib pulley, 6 rib belt using AMS mount - 58 3/8" (Gates 060578)

No a/c, single idler, ~3.12" 7 rib pulley, 6 rib belt using AMS mount.
EDIT: correct length for future searches is 58.5" or a 6pk1485 belt

No a/c, AMS with no idler, 53.5"

Length of VR6 Vortech SC belt W/ AC
60.5" 7 rib single sided 

Gatorback
4060578 (6PK1470) = 6rib 57.75
4080605/4080610 (8rib, cut to 7)
4060605 = 6 rib 60.5"

Dayco
5060575 = 6 rib 57.5"
5060605 = 6 rib 60.5"
5070610 = 7 rib 61.58" **GOOD**

Gates FleetRunner (http://tinyurl.com/bqx9f45)
K060578HD = 6rib 57.81(Current NAPA)
K060569HD = 6rib 56.99
K060575HD = 6rib 57.5
K070640HD = 7rib 64"
K060615HD = 6rib 61.5"
```


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

C2 software 42# , when the car idles it prefers to be at 13.5-14.0 if it leans out to 14.5-14.7 it actually runs rougher and starts to "hiccup" . Is this normal or do i have an issue


----------



## 12V_VR (Aug 11, 2010)

APCXxstovetopxX said:


> C2 software 42# , when the car idles it prefers to be at 13.5-14.0 if it leans out to 14.5-14.7 it actually runs rougher and starts to "hiccup" . Is this normal or do i have an issue


i have the same thing happen running my 42# tune, it idles great richer than 14.0 but will randomly lean out and hiccup for about 30 secs then fix itself


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

12V_VR said:


> i have the same thing happen running my 42# tune, it idles great richer than 14.0 but will randomly lean out and hiccup for about 30 secs then fix itself


Mine never seems to fix itself it will just stay hiccuping or rough running till i rev it or pull away from a stop, then i come to a stop and it begins again


----------



## 12V_VR (Aug 11, 2010)

Its totally weird,we're not the only ones that have this problem. Anyways i will be going Lugtronic which will fix this problem.


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

12V_VR said:


> Its totally weird,we're not the only ones that have this problem. Anyways i will be going Lugtronic which will fix this problem.


My thoughts exactly


----------



## trh1157 (Nov 29, 2013)

*Fixed (for now)*

Finally got enough stuff out of the garage to get my car in. Ended up getting "EPC and engine" on dash - assumed it was MAF related. Pulled things apart to access MAF and small amount of oil just below impellor on sc and looked like small film of oil (dried) on intake tube. Couldn't see oil on MAF and no oil on air filter. Parts stores wouldn't sell just sensor and wanted $329 for new MAF or $249 for re-man. Decided to clean MAF before replacing - seemed to work dash lights went out and car runs well.

Think I will continue to drive it and expect MAF may act up again. Is a little (less than teaspoon) oil near impeller the likely culprit?

Can I continue to run it knowing I may have to clean MAF every 2,000 miles or so or do I need new seals now (V-9 F trim)?

Want to put in boost gauge and A/F gauge (2 1/8" diam) using panel I have seen for sale that mounts in vacant area above radio. Prefer similar lighting to stock (Indigo?).

Recommendations on gauges appreciated - will be changing pulley, new injectors and new software at some point. Should I get a vacumm - boost combo guage? Is there an A/F gauge that can log data? Can this data be sent to the new software company so they can adjust tune if A/F is out of whack?


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

V2's can be found used for reasonable prices across many different car genres. Mustang guys run them all the time. If your buying new I would get a self contained unit for ease of install and operation. 

For oil leaking on the MAF, find te source and fix it. Pcv system or output shaft seal of the charger are most likely. It's no fun being broken down or pulling to a light with a car running like garbage. Gauges are up to you. I like having vac/boost gauge for diagnostic purposes. The custom tune stuff I don't know much about but I would be weary of then not having the car to test on. Too many variables. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## trh1157 (Nov 29, 2013)

Thanks for the reply. I'm vf stage 1 (V-9) probably only running about 5 psi. The New South gauges would be nice since they match the stock gauges but I think their lowest one is 0 to 25 psi. Id only be a blip on the gauge face - wish they made some at 0 to 15. Anyway, considering Glowshift digital gauges. If I wasn't planning to use the A/F gauge for tuning but just to monitor, can I get by with the narrow band (about $60) versus the wide band ($200 to $300)? Technical info on the Glowshift narrow band shows it hooks up to the cars 0 to 1.1 volt narrow band o2 sensor. The wideband gauge comes with a separate Bosch sensor to be welded to the exhaust. This sensor is for 0 to 5.0 volts. Most all of this is Greek to me but did want to know what A/F's I'm running, especially if I upgrade, to make sure I don't mess up the engine. Any thoughts comments would be appreciated. Thanks again.


----------



## vdubxcrew (Jul 25, 2004)

Hey guys. Piecing together a charger kit and need to know how long of an oil feed line I will need. I'm thinking 2ft should work or do I need a little longer?


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Running a narrowband will give you very little info. It'll be three steps really, lean, ~14.7, or rich. The wideband would give you real info and can help you know when something isn't right. It all depends how far you want to go. If your staying at 5psi you probably won't have to worry about it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## trh1157 (Nov 29, 2013)

Looking to improve boost over time so will look at widebands. Going to have to stay with the V-9 for quite awhile. Considering C2 software, 4" MAF and larger injectors through E9 Performance. I understand 9 psi may be possible with 2.4 inch pulley on the V-9. Need to calculate blower speed with this pulley to check RPM.

Q1:: Anyone know the stock crank pulley diameter for 2.8 24v and gear reduction ratio, if any, inside the V-9?

I have seen lots of posts regarding belts slipping, especially with the V-1/2/3. I assume more torque is required to spin these larger blowers which may account for what seems like more posts related to slipping.

Q2: If I don't push the engine past 6,000 RPM will I still get belt slip with the 2.4 inch pulley? Any thoughts on having the pulley coated (Carbonite or something similar)?


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

trh1157 said:


> Looking to improve boost over time so will look at widebands. Going to have to stay with the V-9 for quite awhile. Considering C2 software, 4" MAF and larger injectors through E9 Performance. I understand 9 psi may be possible with 2.4 inch pulley on the V-9. Need to calculate blower speed with this pulley to check RPM.
> 
> Q1:: Anyone know the stock crank pulley diameter for 2.8 24v and gear reduction ratio, if any, inside the V-9?
> 
> ...



It takes roughly 40 HP to spin a V9 and Bout 60/70 to spin a V1/2/3. The pulley is 5" something, 6 rib belt. The gear ratio is 3.6:1 for Helical cut gear sets ( which yours is ). You need to get a smaller and stiller belt if you plan to slip less on that pulley. the issue though, its so damn small, its going to slip. You can add traction grooves ( perpendicular/horizontal slits cut into the ribs wither via machining or a Dremel if you are poor ). 



Yes it will wear the belt faster, but there is a price to pay for using a small pulley. E9 is releasing MK4 Cog Pulleys in the future which is another option.


----------



## trh1157 (Nov 29, 2013)

*Boudah and youlostme21*

Thanks for the responses. In terms of reducing belt slip, do you think there would be a noticeable difference between the carbinite coated pulley and the perpendicular grooved pulley?


----------



## napkin (Mar 8, 2008)

vampvr said:


> Hi, what do you think of this kit with a v3 and a powercooler that we make?


you have pics of the beltdrive up to the crank?


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

Ive been running a v1 on a 2.87 pulley with 11psi zero belt slip but i have dual idlers, i also run a gatorback belt


----------



## 92Lowraddo (Apr 18, 2005)

APCXxstovetopxX said:


> Ive been running a v1 on a 2.87 pulley with 11psi zero belt slip but i have dual idlers, i also run a gatorback belt


There is always some slip whether you can feel it or not. You would feel a huge difference with cogs. The second i went from a gates belt to a gatorback, slipping was even worse and im guessing because less contact patch on the pulley since it has cross cuts. Personally i would stay away from gatorback but that was just my experience. Are you still talking to mike about his pulleys?


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

92Lowraddo said:


> There is always some slip whether you can feel it or not. You would feel a huge difference with cogs. The second i went from a gates belt to a gatorback, slipping was even worse and im guessing because less contact patch on the pulley since it has cross cuts. Personally i would stay away from gatorback but that was just my experience. Are you still talking to mike about his pulleys?


Well if i have any slip ive yet to see or hear it, psi at redline is consistent pull after pull and none of the pulley get hot to the touch just warm. I am still going forward with the cogs, mike sent me a custom 2.59" pulley he made (for a normal serp belt) that im going to put on and run down the track just for $hits and giggles haha


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

You won't feel it or hear it really. You'll see belt dust around your pulleys/brackets


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

the one and only VF stage IV kit (crank pulley driven) is for sale.

PM me for info. FYI - this can be retrofitted to both V9's and V1/2s.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

.LSinLV. said:


> the one and only VF stage IV kit (crank pulley driven) is for sale.
> 
> PM me for info. FYI - this can be retrofitted to both V9's and V1/2s.


Incorrect, VF was the past. other companies have AUX drive configurations and jackshaft configs w/ multiple different supercharger options. FWIW, I know about 5 active users with STG 3/4 kits form VF when they originally came out. and they are running V2 s trims and some upgraded to Si and V7 YSI superchargers with Cogs.

checkout www.facebook.com/exit9performance


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

How many of you guys are running lower compression?
And what do you think the limit is on stock compression?
I'm rebuilding right now and curious if i should throw some 9:1 pistons in while i'm inside already. 
Car was running 15psi with w/m running megasquirt. Had a lot of wiring/tuning issues when i first got the car running and I cracked 5 of 6 ringlands somehwere along the line. Finally got the tune straightened out and pulled for the rebuild. 
thanks


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

BOUDAH said:


> Incorrect, VF was the past. other companies have AUX drive configurations and jackshaft configs w/ multiple different supercharger options. FWIW, I know about 5 active users with STG 3/4 kits form VF when they originally came out. and they are running V2 s trims and some upgraded to Si and V7 YSI superchargers with Cogs.
> 
> checkout www.facebook.com/exit9performance


mine isn't cogged. it's an 8 rib belt driven direct from the crank. and FYI this is similar to other kits, but the ONLY one ever made from VF.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

.LSinLV. said:


> mine isn't cogged. it's an 8 rib belt driven direct from the crank. and FYI this is similar to other kits, but the ONLY one ever made from VF.


Correct, 8 Rib, i was just saying that Cogs are also an option. The fact that VF Engineering made it, hopefully youve already engineered the VF out of VF engineering. Also, You cannot use that kit with a V9. This is why they redesigned the kits to use a V2 s trim. Reason for this, the Pulley diameter required to SAFELY be ran with the crank pulley is not large enough. This is why they blew up when first introduced. owners would get 1-3k miles and they would implode w/ the V9. Not a well designed kit out of the box. The V2 version wasnt bad, but you deff get belt slip, so youll be lucky to be peaking 11-12 PSI, nowhere near the promised 500 HP originally advertised


----------



## Mdesmarais819 (Jun 7, 2014)

Hey guys. Need some info about the z-engineering kit. I've heard they change the name or became different compagny?! Can't get acces to any parts now ?

Setup:

Mk2 91 GTI

- MK4 headgasket
- 1.8T relocated iat
- HD lifters and springs
- 42# green top injectors
- 272 cams
- Lugtronic stand alone
- Ported & matched upper and lower intake
- Ported & matched exhaust manifold
- Phenolic intake gaskets
- Shock therapy wires with mod coilpack
- 8lbs flywheel

- Zex dry nitrou systems
- Zex dual purge valves
- Zex safety blow down & bottle warmer
- 50hp shots daily, 75&100 setup for track

-Z-engineering zr2 
-Eimii intercooler
-Hks BOV

Hopefully grinding on the 300hp~ 

- How do you mesure the z pulley? 
- Best way to mesure the belt lenght needed
- Good tuning shop in west canada? 
- We need more picture of builts since most the ones posted ln here and unavailable online..










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 4pekatt (Sep 9, 2013)

Does anybody want to buy my VF Engineering Stage II kit for VR6? 

I have the kit with the distributor engine software. 

EVERYTHING is included. its just a matter of plug and play. Supercharger has been through the initial oil change.


----------



## 95raddo (May 24, 2002)

Ruf (http://www.ruf-kompressoren.com/wb/pages/en/shop/supercharger.php) over in Germany is developing the ZR chargers and a few companies over in Europe are selling ZR chargers but not supporting the older style chargers that were sold in the u.s. probably because they were prone to premature failure. Bad news for those of us still with working ZR chargers. I opted to install cogged pulleys on mine which I believe extended its life significantly due to not being over tensioned

Sent from my KFOT using Tapatalk


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

Mdesmarais819 said:


> Hey guys. Need some info about the z-engineering kit. I've heard they change the name or became different compagny?! Can't get acces to any parts now ?
> 
> Setup:
> 
> ...


I was able to crack 300whp on just a vortech v1 kit with supporting mods, i made 307whp, i also would not recommend a dry shot of nitrous ill be running a wet shot in the spring but the horror stories of cars going lean on dry shots steered me clear of that

As for measuring belt length i used a piece of string and routed it around the pulleys , and then measured the string


----------



## VW-VR6mk3 (Feb 14, 2013)

have question about ecu / what chip I have to run I bought a used sc kit with a ecu that has a chip in it was an obd1 and it was on a distributor and my car is a obd1 on coil pack I am thinking that the ecu I got with the kit won't work just curious if you guys have any tips ?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

If you're from London, chances are you got that from Chris & that's my old setup.
Assuming you got the injectors with the rest of the setup (30# red), you're going to need a 30# chip for OBD1 coilpack.

Simple as that.
Don't know if it really matters who it's from, as long as the chip knows the MAF is _before _the blower.

If it is indeed my old setup (shown here), then it was a C2 30# dizzy chip.


----------



## Mdesmarais819 (Jun 7, 2014)

When i mesured the lenght of the belt to go with the Zr1 i ended up having 55 3/4. Witch i didnt find any info to where order it. I mesured the lenght with an idler pulley ( the one that came on a flange aroubd the alternator. Do i have to rin the idler pulley or if k can gonstraigh from the power steering to the ahrger passing by the alternator ? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mdesmarais819 (Jun 7, 2014)

Here's the idler pulley i'm talking about.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## VW-VR6mk3 (Feb 14, 2013)

thanks for the tip Promethus_


----------



## vwfotos94 (Nov 1, 2010)

Looking for some help! 

Current setup:
Stock compression 12v vr6 with vortech v2
28t cog kit (15psi) at 7
walbro 255 inline pump 
Bkr7e plugs 
Tial qr diverter valve


When I put the pedal to the floor it only revs up to 4 grand and seems to sputter and die out like it's falling on its face.. only building about 5 psi at 4 k rpm.. please help!!!


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

*@PMvwfotos94*

May be a long shot, but check and see if your cat is melted or exhaust is clogged.
I know someone who had a similar problem and it ended up being a clogged cat.


----------



## vwfotos94 (Nov 1, 2010)

prometheus_ said:


> *@PMvwfotos94*
> 
> May be a long shot, but check and see if your cat is melted or exhaust is clogged.
> I know someone who had a similar problem and it ended up being a clogged cat.


no cat


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

What tune?


----------



## vwfotos94 (Nov 1, 2010)

youlostme21 said:


> What tune?


C2 42# I pulled the belt off and it still does it.. I checked for a bad maf and still nothing... maybe my stock pump isn't working not enough fuel?


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

vwfotos94 said:


> Looking for some help!
> 
> Current setup:
> Stock compression 12v vr6 with vortech v2
> ...


C2 chip? 
What does your air/fuel ratio look like as ur passing the 2500-3500 range? 
Pull a plug yet?


----------



## vwfotos94 (Nov 1, 2010)

APCXxstovetopxX said:


> C2 chip?
> What does your air/fuel ratio look like as ur passing the 2500-3500 range?
> Pull a plug yet?


 No air/fuel gauge yet


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

First off, get a wideband. 
Second, check fuel psi with and without the inline powered up and make sure both pumps are working. I ran out of fuel with the stock pump at 12 psi around 5k without meth or an intercooler so if your air is good and cold it'ld be sooner even. 
Thirdly make sure the rest of your ignition and fuel system is in order. Good plugs, coil, wires 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## vwfotos94 (Nov 1, 2010)

youlostme21 said:


> First off, get a wideband.
> Second, check fuel psi with and without the inline powered up and make sure both pumps are working. I ran out of fuel with the stock pump at 12 psi around 5k without meth or an intercooler so if your air is good and cold it'ld be sooner even.
> Thirdly make sure the rest of your ignition and fuel system is in order. Good plugs, coil, wires
> 
> ...


HAHAHAHA well i guess when i was wiring my relay in for my inline pump i never plugged the stock pump back in :laugh::laugh::laugh::banghead: so i plugged it in and runs perfect! now to get a wideband!! Any recommendations for wideband brands?


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

youlostme21 said:


> First off, get a wideband.
> Second, check fuel psi with and without the inline powered up and make sure both pumps are working. I ran out of fuel with the stock pump at 12 psi around 5k without meth or an intercooler so if your air is good and cold it'ld be sooner even.
> Thirdly make sure the rest of your ignition and fuel system is in order. Good plugs, coil, wires
> 
> ...


I also ran out of fuel around 5k on 11-12psi , glad to see you figured out your issue also vwfotos


----------



## vwfotos94 (Nov 1, 2010)

Hey everyone I am looking to run meth injection on my 12v 2.8 supercharged vr6 current setup


Stock compression
Vortech v2 with 28t supercharger innovations cogs (15psi) at around 7
tial qr dv 
C2 42# chip and injectors 4 inch maf 
Walbro 255 fuel pump

I'm looking to run meth and was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction on what size nozzles I need to run or if there is a plug and play kit I could buy and be done with then.. please help thank you! !


----------



## lilrabbitGTi95 (May 23, 2009)

Hey everybody! :wave:

Just installed my vortech V1 last weekend and have been having a blast! I posted in this thread earlier but it was somewhat buried. My set up as of now:

Freshly built VR6
ARP bottom end hardware, sock con rods and pistons.
MK4 headgasket.
Schimmel Performance ported/polished head.
263 Cams
Peloquin LSD
Bkr7e plugs at .026
Vortech V1 with 3 inch pulley
30# injectors, 
C2 30# tune with 95mm maf.

Car has been a blast so far even running little boost. Boost gauge arrived in the mail but has not been installed yet, as well as my innovative wideband set up. Both of those going on tomorrow. Got my flow straightener for my MAF from SaxonPC, also hasnt been installed yet, but I expect to see some serious increases in drivability with the car after its installed. In the weeks to come I plan to do dual idler, as I'm experiencing some audible belt slip and squeal in the higher RPMS. Could this possibly be too little belt tension? I expect it also has to do with the fact I'm ONLY running a 1.8t timing belt idler pulley. Need to order the vortech idler. Picked up a new belt today and am planning on installing it tomorrow as well. Should be a busy day. 

Just wanted to stop in and add my ride to the collection. I don't understand why chargers aren't more popular, they're quite fun. Pics of mine:

DSC_0196 by lilgti, on Flickr


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

lilrabbitGTi95 said:


> Hey everybody! :wave:
> 
> Just installed my vortech V1 last weekend and have been having a blast! I posted in this thread earlier but it was somewhat buried. My set up as of now:
> 
> ...



By the looks of the case, youre running an S Trim and prob around 1050 CFM within its efficiency. the single best ugrade i woauld suggest for more flow is the 928 Impeller it is a billet impeller that raises the CFM potential to 1200 similar to the old T trims. so same gearing, same pulleys, More flow within the efficiency range. Check it out. www.928motorsport.com


----------



## lilrabbitGTi95 (May 23, 2009)

BOUDAH said:


> By the looks of the case, youre running an S Trim and prob around 1050 CFM within its efficiency. the single best ugrade i woauld suggest for more flow is the 928 Impeller it is a billet impeller that raises the CFM potential to 1200 similar to the old T trims. so same gearing, same pulleys, More flow within the efficiency range. Check it out. www.928motorsport.com


Very cool! thanks for the info, if you don't mind, what do you mean "by the looks of the case"? I can never tell differences. Mine ONLY says v-1, no trim, just a serial number. And I have been interested in this since reading about it pages back.


----------



## Red-Demon (Feb 18, 2011)

Plz help I just purchased a stage 2.5 kit for my 98 Jetta vr6 anybody has instructions for the install 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## swiftrabbit (Sep 6, 2010)

BOUDAH said:


> Correct, 8 Rib, i was just saying that Cogs are also an option. The fact that VF Engineering made it, hopefully youve already engineered the VF out of VF engineering. Also, You cannot use that kit with a V9. This is why they redesigned the kits to use a V2 s trim. Reason for this, the Pulley diameter required to SAFELY be ran with the crank pulley is not large enough. This is why they blew up when first introduced. owners would get 1-3k miles and they would implode w/ the V9. Not a well designed kit out of the box. The V2 version wasnt bad, but you deff get belt slip, so youll be lucky to be peaking 11-12 PSI, nowhere near the promised 500 HP originally advertised


I can't speak for other owners, but I have a VF Stage 3 with the original V9 and it's running strong with 60k miles on the kit. It does not peak over 9psi. Maybe 10 was the breaking point, and a little belt slip has saved it.


----------



## lilrabbitGTi95 (May 23, 2009)

Finally installed my wideband and worked out the kinks with it. I BELIEVE I got it all working right. At idle I'm seeing a relatively steady 15, occasionally bouncing up to 16 for a few seconds. Normal average driving I'm seeing about 16 as well, as expected it pegs out lean when I let off and come to a stop, and settles back down at an idle. At WOT I'm seeing very consistant 12-12.4ish. So I am pretty comfortable beating on the car now, and even on 5psi it is quite the animal. 

All in all, my car works right because I read this thread. Every single page. I even took notes. Thanks guys! :thumbup:


----------



## KentGTiKR (Apr 17, 2008)

When goin into FI to my mind to have a wideband is a must. I don't know why, but people after getting into FI installs boost gauge as a first one. I even know people who put turbo on their engine, fitted boost gauges, because there's a boost, but didn't use standalone management or at least remapped OEM ECU to ensure they have correct AFRs. Ofcourse when you don't have a wideband you don't see AFR. When you don't see it does not hurt


----------



## Mdesmarais819 (Jun 7, 2014)

Questions guys, The lugtronic standalone setup i got has the 02sensor with it. Got 5 wires coming from it. Witch one do it wite the wideband gauge to?










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## lilrabbitGTi95 (May 23, 2009)

Mdesmarais819 said:


> Questions guys, The lugtronic standalone setup i got has the 02sensor with it. Got 5 wires coming from it. Witch one do it wite the wideband gauge to?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


What wideband controller do you have? My o2 sensor just plugs into the controller, and then to the gauge. With all correct powers/grounds, there was no cutting or splicing of wires on the o2 sensor?


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

Has anyone bought just a charger unit and then pieced together their own kit? Through my research, it seems that V-1's are the best chargers for power, but I can't find them anywhere in a kit anymore. Only things I'm seeing are the V-9 kit at ECS which makes less power than V-1's/V-3's and is $4400.

I came across this site selling different V-1's/V-3's. They are super pricey though ($3k)... http://www.superchargersonline.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=507_1318

Wondering if it'd be about the same price as ECS if I pieced together a kit with these V-1/V-3 chargers...or if I'll have better luck getting lucky on the classifieds here for a used kit - haven't seen any for sale in months.


----------



## dubmanvr (Oct 1, 2010)

Your best bet is to find a used kit or partial kit and work from there. Make sure the charger is ccw rotation. When I first supercharged my car I found an old ams v1 kit for 2k that needed injectors and a chip. Rebuilding a charger is fairly simple also if you find a blown one


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

been working on a 12v and 24v that both are getting COG drive pulleys and keeping the AC working

24v











12v


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

I bought my v2 off a mustang forum. Got it for $600. Bought an AMS bracket from the classifieds with an idler setup for $150, already had c2 30# software an injectors. Then went megasquirt and used 1st gen eagle talon injectors. 540cc low impedance that I got 8 for $60. 
All started with buying a blown up v9 setup and using only the injectors after a bunch of wasted money and time. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

Auxiliary Drive Cogs by Exit 9 Performance for VF STG 2/3 and E9 kits. Coged pulleys can be used with both STG 1/2 and STG 3/4 brackets Upgrade paths are nice. DYNO and PSI readings to follow

STG1/2 VF kit upgrade (V9 head units)



VF STG 3/4 Cog Upgrade ( V1/2/3/7 head units )



opcorn:


----------



## lilrabbitGTi95 (May 23, 2009)

Installed my 2.8" pulley today on the v1. Seeing 8psi, just gotta get rid of that belt slip! I'm seriously pleased. This car screams. It's no super car, but it puts a 370z to shame. Don't ask me how I know.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

with a 2.87" pulley you should see around 14psi +/-


----------



## lilrabbitGTi95 (May 23, 2009)

Key word, belt slip. Haha. Really need to upgrade some fueling parts before I fix the belt slip. 

What's the part number for the walbro 255 fuel pump most folks use? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mdesmarais819 (Jun 7, 2014)

I got mine from ECS tuning. Great instruction and warranty.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

Hey guys I haven't been on in forever but I'm going to be putting a turbo in this summer and will be selling my v9 and 380cc injectors figured I'd post them here before anywhere else incase someone here wants them


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

lilrabbitGTi95 said:


> Installed my 2.8" pulley today on the v1. Seeing 8psi, just gotta get rid of that belt slip! I'm seriously pleased. This car screams. It's no super car, but it puts a 370z to shame. Don't ask me how I know.


I was seeing 11psi on a v1 with the 2.87" pulley and dual idlers


UPDATE: so anyone following along will know im shooting to be the fastest supercharged 2.8l 12v without nitrous, the record is currently said to be held by the ivans at 11.6 . Yesterday i managed to pull an 11.98 at 115 (first pass of the day) on my new setup which is as follows

2.8l vr6 
Arp rod bolts
Arp head studs
9:1 spacer 
Drc 268 cams
2.9l clone manifold gasket matched
Ported exhaust manifolds
3" exhaust
Vortech v1 supercharger with 2.59 pulley
C2 chip with 42lb injectors 
23" slicks

Its like driving a whole new car compared to last year, after talking to some knowledgeable people im going to try raising the limiter to 7800 so i can trap in 3rd since im only using a few 100rpm in 4th on the 23s , if that doesnt do the trick i will look into swapping final drives


----------



## lilrabbitGTi95 (May 23, 2009)

Videos and pics! I'm curious to see what power it makes now too. It was pretty good before.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

http://flic.kr/p/s2KvAF

http://flic.kr/p/rpgNpt

The dyno is friday night, uncorrected numbers, on a 4 bar regulator

The time slip is from yesterday, i switched it to a 3 bar regulator when i realized the 4 bar was not the proper one for the setup. But i have not dynoed since i switched the regulator


----------



## BlueMk3VR6 (Aug 7, 2001)

quick question....does anybody know what the latest 30# C2 software version is for stage 1 S/C kits?

I'm still running my 1.31 version but wanted to find out and possible update. Thanks

Arnie


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

APCXxstovetopxX said:


> I was seeing 11psi on a v1 with the 2.87" pulley and dual idlers
> 
> 
> UPDATE: so anyone following along will know im shooting to be the fastest supercharged 2.8l 12v without nitrous, the record is currently said to be held by the ivans at 11.6 . Yesterday i managed to pull an 11.98 at 115 (first pass of the day) on my new setup which is as follows
> ...


thats baddass. congrats. i couldnt crack off an 11.9 and eventually went turbo. are you intercooled at all?


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

If I was to piece together a kit, any recommendations for the air filter and TB piping? The bends/length look fairly mild but I'd like to avoid paying for custom work if possible.


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

turbo mike said:


> thats baddass. congrats. i couldnt crack off an 11.9 and eventually went turbo. are you intercooled at all?


Nope still non intercooled, toying with the idea of rotating the housing when i aquire a short runner. Ive decided to trade the 23" slicks for 22" because they are just too tall, c2 is sending me a 7800rpm redline chip this week hopefully and im on the hunt for a 3.65-3.68 ring and pinion because the stoxk 3.38 is just too long


----------



## wiked93vr (Mar 13, 2008)

*Stage 3 question??*

Has anybody been successful installing the side mounted intercooler from the MK3 stage 3 in a Corrado?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

APCXxstovetopxX said:


> Nope still non intercooled, toying with the idea of rotating the housing when i aquire a short runner. Ive decided to trade the 23" slicks for 22" because they are just too tall, c2 is sending me a 7800rpm redline chip this week hopefully and im on the hunt for a 3.65-3.68 ring and pinion because the stoxk 3.38 is just too long


23s were fine for me, especially with a corrado trans. Contact HGB on here. I know he has one. When I intercooled my setup i used a precision fmic. Lost about 4psi. I don't know if its bc precision used **** cores now or not bc i heard they originally used garret cores and pressure drop wasn't an issue. So id look into a garret unit when the time comes. Thought of running a modified stock intake manifold with and air/water setup but I just didn't feel like spending more money. Wish I had tried the unintercooled setup and pushed harder, but I'm glad to see someone is still pushing the sc'd vr hard.


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

turbo mike said:


> 23s were fine for me, especially with a corrado trans. Contact HGB on here. I know he has one. When I intercooled my setup i used a precision fmic. Lost about 4psi. I don't know if its bc precision used **** cores now or not bc i heard they originally used garret cores and pressure drop wasn't an issue. So id look into a garret unit when the time comes. Thought of running a modified stock intake manifold with and air/water setup but I just didn't feel like spending more money. Wish I had tried the unintercooled setup and pushed harder, but I'm glad to see someone is still pushing the sc'd vr hard.


Thanks a ton for the support! The record looks to be 11.52 on race fuel and 11.65 on 93 after talking to a few people over the past weeks. Im excited to push the car and get there


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

Assuming the picture below is an AMS kit (post charger MAF from what I can see), how is the DV routed if the air filter is directly on the charger inlet?


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

Peetah05 said:


> Assuming the picture below is an AMS kit (post charger MAF from what I can see), how is the DV routed if the air filter is directly on the charger inlet?


1. I didnt know anyone made post charger maf software so most likely on stand alone
2. Im almost positive the diverter is just atmospheric on that setup
3. I bet this car idles like poop if its not on standalone


----------



## gpassat03 (Aug 5, 2009)

Old school v1 with original ams kit/software


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

my obd2 vr6 AMS kit has the MAF setup post charger. ran fine that way for an box kit. there was no DV in the stock AMS setup according to the instructions i received with the kit. it only made 5ish lbs of boost. now that i am on SEM and COGS and other non AMS parts. i run a DV that returns about 2" before the intake of the charger.


----------



## freedomtanker (Aug 9, 2006)

starting a VR6 Eaton M90 Build and was wondering if anyone knew what the highest HP record for a M90 build is.. because im shooting for the 300 range...

and yeah i know opcorn:


----------



## trh1157 (Nov 29, 2013)

*MAF (again)*

It has been a while since I read this whole thread and I'm sure it has been hashed about quite a bit. Still having troubles with my MAF on VF Stage 1 24v GTI. Does anyone know anything about this: http://www.promracing.com/home-page-bestsellers/pro-m-92.html

At some point I'm looking at improvements that will include c2 software, smaller pulley & injectors. I understand C2 is written for 4-inch MAF. Anyone know if C2 would work all right with the the Pro-M? Thanks.


----------



## lilrabbitGTi95 (May 23, 2009)

Fuel pumps. Who's running what? Think I'm starving a bit and seeing some AFR's im not too comfortable with. Current set up is a walbro 255 with the transfer pump bypassed. This was a shot in the dark for me, thinking maybe my stock transfer pump was starving my 255 and thus starving my engine. AFR's got no worse with this added change. Wanting to gather input from you guys and see who's done what. Planning to put down some big numbers one day, so I don't mind spending a bit now so I have room to grow.


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

Make sure your in tank pump is working. I ran a small 150lph wal bro on my setup and it fueled it fine. Eventually went 044 as a precaution but wasn't needed.


----------



## lilrabbitGTi95 (May 23, 2009)

Now that you mention it, I've never once heard mine prime. I have a spare I'll throw in here in just a bit and let you guys know.


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

Are you required to drill a hole in the head for an AMS bracket to fit?

I was reading an old install PDF of theirs and it read "Install Supercharger Bracket onto Cylinder Head Mark Hole, Drill and Tap"


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

*Drilling head*

The AMS brackets (which almost every set out is a copy or close to of)had a hole that you could drill and tap the flat part of the head near the valve cover for. Almost impossible to do and get it straight with the motor in the car. Maybe with a good right angle drill. If you drill too deep you can cause issues. Too shallow and the bolt will just strip. The brackets don't fit flat against the head there on most motors further complicating matters. I think I did it on one install and then after that never bothered and never saw any difference. My suggestion is to not bother. 

Tl;Dr - not needed.


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

vw1320 said:


> The AMS brackets (which almost every set out is a copy or close to of)had a hole that you could drill and tap the flat part of the head near the valve cover for. Almost impossible to do and get it straight with the motor in the car. Maybe with a good right angle drill. If you drill too deep you can cause issues. Too shallow and the bolt will just strip. The brackets don't fit flat against the head there on most motors further complicating matters. I think I did it on one install and then after that never bothered and never saw any difference. My suggestion is to not bother.
> 
> Tl;Dr - not needed.


Thank you very much for the prompt/informational reply.

In reply to your argument, I've only seen some AMS kits with that top bolt used on the bracket below the fuel lines. It also just seems sketchy (unless you have the head off and on a drill press?) to make a straight, not too shallow/deep hole in the head. Not something you want to just be drilling holes into for the hell of it.


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

Peetah05 said:


> Thank you very much for the prompt/informational reply.
> 
> In reply to your argument, I've only seen some AMS kits with that top bolt used on the bracket below the fuel lines. It also just seems sketchy (unless you have the head off and on a drill press?) to make a straight, not too shallow/deep hole in the head. Not something you want to just be drilling holes into for the hell of it.


I did install mine , drilled and tapped hole as per instructions with a right angle drill, worked ok, had to use a small washer behind the bracket against the head


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

i also drilled/tapped the head. did it with the motor out and used a Bridgeport.


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

Finally finished my install at my house this weekend! This is my first time touching a supercharger so it was a little learning experience but this thread helped a lot, thanks guys! Still have some kinks to iron out with it like a very bad misfire (plugs and wires on the way), slight oil leek on my feed line, and a bad squeaking at higher revs which I believe is my belt or idler pulley - more on that later if I don't fix it.










Other than that, this thing is blast to drive! I have the old AMS tune/kit and the simplicity/power of it is amazing - even at elevation here in Denver. You can really feel it pull hard with the 268 cams at 5k+. This is the way VR's should have come from the factory, the GTI is such a blast to drive now. The V1 is kinda loud if the hood is open and you're standing right in front of it...but it really isn't bad when in the cabin IMO. Anyway, here's my obligatory first start video of the setup (temporary and ugly for now). Here's a link to my project thread for anyone interested: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5725635-Project-Clean-Ginster-DD

I'll be updating my thread with a ton of progress photos. If anyone has any requests on how things are setup let me know, I probably have a picture of it!


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

A tip for anyone running motor mount spacers (BFI/custom 17mm height)...you have to remove the rear spacer, lower the motor back down to fit the new belt around the crank pulley. The gap between the frame rail is minimal and not big enough to fit a new belt through. These can also cause fitment problems of your intake/filter setup off the charger inlet. I couldn't strap my filter straight to the side (AMS tune) because it hit the top of the inner fender. :beer:


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

How good is the base tune from Lugtronic for there standalone ECU? I am so sick of the very very old C2 OBD1 chip.


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

The lugtronic base tune is really good. I was amazed at how close it was out of the box. Lugtronic or any stand alone gives you some good options for playing around with chargers. I actually run a very small pulley that would be way too much boost for my engine and I use lug to set my rev limiter down to 5600 thus keeping the boost at the level I want. Later when I install a spacer I will raise the limit.


----------



## Red-Demon (Feb 18, 2011)

Anybody has any pictures of a front mount intercooler on a mk3 vr with a v9 charger 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Red-Demon (Feb 18, 2011)

Thanks in advance 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

Tips on the best way to cut a rib off a Gatorback belt? I was going to try a utility knife with a fresh razor blade...any recommendations? :beer:


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

Peetah05 said:


> Tips on the best way to cut a rib off a Gatorback belt? I was going to try a utility knife with a fresh razor blade...any recommendations? :beer:


Just did it as u said this weekend , utility knife with a new/sharp blade


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

Peetah05 said:


> Finally finished my install at my house this weekend! This is my first time touching a supercharger so it was a little learning experience but this thread helped a lot, thanks guys! Still have some kinks to iron out with it like a very bad misfire (plugs and wires on the way), slight oil leek on my feed line, and a bad squeaking at higher revs which I believe is my belt or idler pulley - more on that later if I don't fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Belt slip is very common especially on a v1 blower, if you dont already have a dual idler setup look into it, very simple to make and a night and day difference, im seeing 15psi on a 2.6 pulley and a v1


----------



## trh1157 (Nov 29, 2013)

*MAF*



trh1157 said:


> It has been a while since I read this whole thread and I'm sure it has been hashed about quite a bit. Still having troubles with my MAF on VF Stage 1 24v GTI. Does anyone know anything about this: http://www.promracing.com/home-page-bestsellers/pro-m-92.html
> 
> At some point I'm looking at improvements that will include c2 software, smaller pulley & injectors. I understand C2 is written for 4-inch MAF. Anyone know if C2 would work all right with the the Pro-M? Thanks.


Anyone know how the Pro-M MAF performs? Do most people with the VF kits extend their intake to get more uniform flow across the MAF? I've been told this is something needed to prevent MAF issues and burning up MAF's.

On another note, I understand superchargerebuild will convert V9 F-trim to G-trim for about $300 to improve air flow capacity from 750 cfm to 825 cfm. I have also seen references to a V-9 H-trim but can't find any specs on the H-trim at Vortech site. Any info on the H-trim and whether an F-trim can be machined to either G or H trims?

Thanks.


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

APCXxstovetopxX said:


> Belt slip is very common especially on a v1 blower, if you dont already have a dual idler setup look into it, very simple to make and a night and day difference, im seeing 15psi on a 2.6 pulley and a v1


It's not when I'm getting into boost at all. It starts at 3k rpm and when coming back down to idle. It only happens when the belt/engine warms up too so I'm thinking it's the belt itself.

I cut a rib off my new gatorback yesterday so I will be throwing that on this weekend and will report back to see if that fixes it. Tip for cutting a rib off...make sure you have a new/sharp blade! I went through both sides of a new blade for the whole belt - it was dulling quite a bit going through that beefy belt.


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

Since there can never be enough useful information, I'll post up a couple reference photos here of my install I was just going through.

Oil return line bung location:










The way it's routed up to the charger - straight AN off pan (could run a 45* too) to a 90* AN on the charger:










Oil feed/return lines on charger:


----------



## lilrabbitGTi95 (May 23, 2009)

I should've tapped my pan on the rear. :banghead: Now if I ever go turbo I'll have to use another pan or find a plug for mine. Thank goodness we don't have to worry about that happening.  

I just completed the install of my water/meth injection system. Not sure what nozzle size I should be using as I just got the kit for free and installed it as is. Works ridiculously well. Got it adjusted to kick on right at 5 psi, and man what a difference it makes in the SC heat.


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

You may run into issues with the pan tapped like that, the return may be under the level of oil in the pan not allowing constant draining . Also the line should always be at a downward angle so the straight fitting off the pan is a no no also


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

Taking the plunge with Lugtronic and put a down payment on the OBD1 standalone unit. Looking forward to ditching the MAF and running a true blow off valve.
This year hope to move to a cogged pulley and rebuilt V1 with billet impeller.


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

Finally got my car dyno'd this weekend. I have an old AMS kit with the original AMS software and a 8 psi pulley. Also 268 cams, TT 2.5" catback. It was at Bluewater Performance here in Denver at 5,280ft. elevation.

Got some very sad numbers on a 90 degree day. 189whp / 175 wtq

I know the main problem here is the tune. It's old and runs super slow when the engine is warm. When I start it up in the mornings, it's wayyy faster than at running temp. I don't have a boost gauge yet (I know it's stupid), but the numbers almost look like there's no boost at all. As those are what cammed VR's should put down.

It's just odd because the car runs amazing right now with this software and I didn't think it'd dog down that much to where I'm pretty much NA. Anyone else seen this happen on some old software back in the day? In a few months I'm planning on eventually getting a new UM stage 2 tune, injectors, 4" MAF and hope to be around 270whp according to what I've seen people put down with that setup and 268 cams. I'll post the dyno sheet when I get home later.


----------



## vToe (Oct 19, 2003)

Charger pr0n. 

3.6fsi with secondary injection, HEP billet short runner w/ integrated injector ports, center mount TB, vortech v1 Ti, mondo dv, 10" fmic, 2" long runner into 2.75" downs, to 2x 100cell race cats, into 3.5" outlet.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

Drool


Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

*Lugtronic Start up*

Is there some sort of check list for the start up on a OBD1 lugtronic plug and play setup?
I got my unit pulled the MAF and installed the new ECU hooked up the wide band as well
as a vacuum line. But sadly it did not start. It was my understanding that it should have 
shipped with the file loaded. Saturday I will get the laptop hooked up and see if there is 
something I may have missed. Who knows maybe Kevin will get back to me as well.


----------



## hiatussk8rs (Jul 30, 2003)

Almost there  

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk


----------



## M Dski mkIII (Mar 14, 2010)

Hey guys I'm running:
Vortech v1
Cogged pullies 32tooth
30lb injectors
C2 software
DV
40k on engine 
No cams or anything for the engine 
True 2.9 manifold

Once I went cogged I realized I badly need LSD, but the difference was night and day.

I'm about to pick up a lugtronic set up from someone on here so I can ditch the maf and tune it better. 
If anyone has a base map for me for my current set up I'd greatly appreciate it. 

Also I have a hks bov that's going on instead of the DV once I switch over to lugtronic.


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

Once you go lugtronic you can step up to the 28T.
I run a tial q bov on mine. 
I have lug now and if you are obd2 i think i can share tune with you.

Michael


----------



## M Dski mkIII (Mar 14, 2010)

I am obd2 I'll pm you! Thanks


----------



## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

*My project*

It's a 92 distributor Corrado running a V9 F trim (I think) with the 3.1" pulley, the original VF GIAC software. Drives nice, I've put about 10 miles on it so far.


Thread with a meager amount of additional info:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7240127-My-Supercharged-VR-build-(very-short)


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

you must have gotten the boost tube from Paul, its off my old car.
Looks good!



theprf said:


> It's a 92 distributor Corrado running a V9 F trim (I think) with the 3.1" pulley, the original VF GIAC software. Drives nice, I've put about 10 miles on it so far.
> 
> 
> Thread with a meager amount of additional info:
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7240127-My-Supercharged-VR-build-(very-short)


----------



## hiatussk8rs (Jul 30, 2003)

Any of you guys on here using the Tial QRJ recirc valve with the 1.5lbs supercharger rated spring ? What you guys think of it and how is it on noise ? Not looking for anything loud or flashy. 

If you guys don't like what other valves are you using or recommend? 

Let me know 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk


----------



## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

naysayers said:


> you must have gotten the boost tube from Paul, its off my old car.
> Looks good!


I got most of the system from Paul. I *knew* someone would recognize it. What goes around, comes around, so to speak.


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

Got my Lugtronic here got a new laptop and it is seeing the New ECU. But sense I am new to this not much makes sense yet.
The car cranks but does not start at all and the RPM reads 3k ? But I have yet to see any thing other than the 5 lines of here plug it 
in for trouble shooting start up. There is like a TON of setting and **** to look at. No easy way to even tell what tune he installed. 
I guess at this point I will need to get him to use Teamviewer to trouble shoot it and get it running for me.


----------



## lugnuts (Jul 26, 2001)

Hi Scott, we will schedule a team viewer session and get you squared away.


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

Awesome and I have a very flexible schedule and I am getting excited at getting this up and going.


----------



## M Dski mkIII (Mar 14, 2010)

Lugtronic should be here in a couple weeks! Also snagged some rs's.
But then today I blew a hole in my trans when I was going to take a lil drive by video.


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

*Cogged pulleys kit*

Placed an order for a 28t cogged pulley kit. So will be fun to see if I can hit 350hp after the tuning is done.


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

Scooter98144 said:


> Placed an order for a 28t cogged pulley kit. So will be fun to see if I can hit 350hp after the tuning is done.


Definitely report back once it's done and what your specs are on the dyno! I'm looking to go with the supercharger innovations cog kit on my mk3 12v with a V1. I'm going with the 30T I think, but will be on a UM E85 tune.


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

Took my supercharged mk3 to Island Dragway a little while back. Car weighed ~2400 lbs (no scales at Island). Vortech V1 . Basically an old AMS kit with some tweaks including an intercooler. Same setup I ran at Waterfest for those that were there. This was my best pass:










I backed it up with another 11.5x right after. 

Now that it's getting cooler I might take the car back out. Just figured I would share as this thread has been a little light on results.


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

wow, nice time. are you on AMS software still?


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

*Chips and salsa*

Maybe if I was in the right lane


----------



## M Dski mkIII (Mar 14, 2010)

Lugtronic arrived today!
Naysayers was awesome enough to send a base tune for my current set up which should get me to at least have the car idle. 

Any one have any tips when tuning with vems/lugtronic
V1
30lb 
Cogged 
Stock fuel pump


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

Did your lugtronic start up and run? Mine does not work yet and it has been nearly two weeks now sense I was told I would get help. I am having to hire local help to get it going it seems. Never got a config file and so far zero support.


----------



## M Dski mkIII (Mar 14, 2010)

^ Sent you a pm


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

Ok so I had a car tuning pro from the area who know VEMS as well as other standalone systems and he spent two hours trying to get it to work.

Here is what I have to check before I am at a point were I will demand your help or a return and refund. 

When we would try and start the VEMS ECU would reset while cranking and change things in the fueling table. So it could be from to

much voltage drop during cranking or I could have some issue with my wiring that is effecting your ECU but not the stock ECU.

I have a NEW fully tested wiring harness I will install. I will also check grounds and such then try again. If that fails you will need to schedule

a team view meeting to see what you can figure out. 

I am unwilling to spend months waiting for the support you promise. For the money I have spent I can have the person I hired custom build a setup and do a base tune.

using the VEMS ecu.

It would be nice not to have to send 3-5 emails only to never hear back. 

Scott

P.S You never did Email me the config file you made for my car? Seems to me that would not be hard to do?


----------



## euroBroke (Nov 27, 2010)

So whats up guys.

here is my recent upgrades that i have done to my R32.

Here is my set up that i was running before. 

VF stage 2 which includes V9 Charger intercooled 







[/url]Untitled by euroBroke, on Flickr[/IMG]

I recently Purchased the exit9performace Cog upgrade for my V9 set up on my R32. Wanted to take the time and share what i though about it. 

Here are a couple reasons why I chose their upgrade. 

After shredding many belts with this kit spending $70+ every time this happened and being stranded not being able to drive my car home because my battery would die. When I saw that the E9 kit had an auxiliary drive belt that sold me. 

The kit requires you to run a fluidampr, which is great because if you drive the car like me lol (always driving like I stole the car) then you need all the dampening you can. 


*Now to the fun part lol*

Not only does it make the charger sound amazing... it definitely makes some power gains. I use to start seeing boost at around 4k rpm now its as soon as 3k rpm im already seeing boost so the car doesnt drag as much, since you know the R32 already is a big boat no need for more power loss. 

The best thing about the kit is no belt slip I always see between 7-8 psi 

One thing about E9 is not only the quality of the work or the attention they put into it they are great guys and they always answer my text. Me being on the west coast and them on the east coast. 
When i was installing the kit I had questions at 9pm my time and Vito was there to answer them. 







[/url]R32 by euroBroke, on Flickr[/IMG]

For me and my cars Quality is everything I dont cheap out on parts like the old saying about building a car.
*"Fast, Reliable, or Cheap"* You can only pick 2 
I chose to be Fast and Reliable and it was not cheap. 
the beauty of this upgrade that its really competitive on the the cost of it, and compared to others on the market. 







[/url]R32 by euroBroke, on Flickr[/IMG]







[/url]R32 by euroBroke, on Flickr[/IMG]

*The finished product* 
Dont mind the oil spillage it was all cleaned up.







[/url]R32 by euroBroke, on Flickr[/IMG]

So my final kit this is what it entails 
VF Stage 2 with E9 Cog pulley upgrade
UM 630cc stage 1 file
UM launch control
UM haldex tune

Hit them up 
http://www.e9performance.com/products

Here is the first video i took with the kit. there was 2 ppl in the car and still performed amazing. Dont mind my buddy screaming of joy lol 





Here is a pic of my time at Socaleuro day at the drags. First time ever dragging this R32. 
This was against a UM E85 golf R 
On the left. I will post more videos soon. 







[/url]Untitled by euroBroke, on Flickr[/IMG]







[/url]R32 by euroBroke, on Flickr[/IMG]

Here is a pic of my R32.







[/url]R32 by euroBroke, on Flickr[/IMG]

Hope this was helpful to those considering the cog set upgrade from E9, I love mine. Been installed nearly a month without no hiccup.

If you guys have any questions. Feel free to ask me, Im not on here 24/7 but i will try to answer them as best as i can. Thanks


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

Awesome update man! I've been following a lot of what E9 is doing lately and it's top notch! :thumbup: If I had a 24v/V9 I would definitely be supporting them. Your post sold me even more to go cogs on my V1 12v setup - I'm going with the supercharger innovations kit. I'm very excited for no belt slip and a solid 12psi, not to mention the sound they make :laugh:

I saw that you're on UM, any plans to go E85? Everyone I've talked to running UM FI files say they love the E85 tune/benefits. When I upgrade my new tune I'm going to do the UM stage 2 E85 tune which just calls for bigger injectors and fuel pump if you have the supporting mods.


----------



## euroBroke (Nov 27, 2010)

Peetah05 said:


> Awesome update man! I've been following a lot of what E9 is doing lately and it's top notch! :thumbup: If I had a 24v/V9 I would definitely be supporting them. Your post sold me even more to go cogs on my V1 12v setup - I'm going with the supercharger innovations kit. I'm very excited for no belt slip and a solid 12psi, not to mention the sound they make :laugh:
> 
> I saw that you're on UM, any plans to go E85? Everyone I've talked to running UM FI files say they love the E85 tune/benefits. When I upgrade my new tune I'm going to do the UM stage 2 E85 tune which just calls for bigger injectors and fuel pump if you have the supporting mods.


E9 makes a kit for the V1-V3 set up as well. Hit up Vito! he will hook you up! [email protected]


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

euroBroke said:


> E9 makes a kit for the V1-V3 set up as well. Hit up Vito! he will hook you up! [email protected]


It was my understanding those kits were only for 24v's though.


----------



## M Dski mkIII (Mar 14, 2010)

Mine is up and running on lugtronic! Huge thanks to naysayers for giving me some help and a base tune!


----------



## M Dski mkIII (Mar 14, 2010)

Did a a few road logs with my lugtronic. Looks to be that my goal lambda is about a consistent .14 off (rich) on heavy load, wot 3-6k. 2-4K I was about .08 off so I'm running pretty rich. But that a lot better then leaning out! 

There's no one here in Oklahoma City area that knows how to tune Vems but a guy said he would look at it and see if he can tune it. He had used many other programs his shop is deep stage tuning and performance. Let's hope he can tune it


----------



## Jumbopvp (May 1, 2010)

*Help*

Hi

I am running a V9 supercharger on my 2000 mk4 jetta vr6. The charger was installed by my mechanic. I would like to work and learn more about it all. Here is a list of known items installed.

#36Lb Injectors	
2.62" Pulley
V9 Blower	
c2 software	
Forge 007 DV	

Does anyone have a diy for the supercharger setup?

Upgrades suggestions?


----------



## mars2 (Sep 16, 2008)

I have VW R32engine with V9F with 2.40" pulley.
So I tight as much as I can my belt and I think I don't have any belt slip but still have the following issue:

-When car is cold or drive in less than 20°C and don't get stuck in traffic i get:
1 PSI at 2400 rpm even 1 psi at 2000 rpm on morning colder than 10°C for a few kilometer.
3.9 PSI at 4000 rpm
didn't check how many PSI at redline

- When Car is warm ( more than 20 km at 100 mph) or day hotter than 20°C or after get stuck in traffic I get
1 PSI at 3000 Rpm 
2.4 PSI at 4000 Rpm.
7.9 PSI at Red line

I don't think it's belt sleeping as I don't see the belt sliping already at 2500 rpm! And I don't here any slip
Could it be that when the supercharger part' heat up the clearance between the blade and the housing are changing creating less PSI?
Or is it just the hotter air from the intake that is less dance so less PSI?

My V9 with 2.40" pulley is whining a lot even at idle ( noisy charger) But i think V9F all are?

Any advice welcome.


----------



## vToe (Oct 19, 2003)

mars2 said:


> So I tight as much as I can my belt and I think I don't have any belt slip but still have the following issue:
> 
> -When car is cold or drive in less than 20°C and don't get stuck in traffic i get:
> 1 PSI at 2400 rpm even 1 psi at 2000 rpm on morning colder than 10°C for a few kilometer.
> ...


You won't hear the charger pulley slipping the belt but its 100% happening. The vf stage 2 kit is limited by a couple things. How small the charger pulley is, how much belt wrap is around the charger pulley, the width of the belt used to drive the charger, and the fact that the same belt is driving all the accessories as well. Temperature can always play a roll with different pulleys/belts expanding and contracting causing less or more tension. The impeller definitely also expands but it will get up to a consistent temperature no matter the slip. Also shimming the impeller is a common thing to do to add performance, so while the impeller definitely does expand like you're saying, it would be beneficial, not a negative.

How noisey is noisey? There's a few v9 that have straight cut gears which noticeable louder at idle and under operation. Post a video of the charger and I can tell you if it sounds like your bearings are going.

Also you should check out what eurobroke is running to fix his slipage. 





euroBroke said:


> So whats up guys.
> 
> here is my recent upgrades that i have done to my R32.
> 
> ...




Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk


----------



## M Dski mkIII (Mar 14, 2010)

Whose running with a SRI? Torque loss? Hp gains? Worth it?


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

M Dski mkIII said:


> Whose running with a SRI? Torque loss? Hp gains? Worth it?


Im hopefully adding one this season if not it will go on next season 👍 

Set a new PB of 11.92 at 116mph . Broke an axle on the next pass. Megasquirt is on the way soon !!!


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

In the spirit of keeping the thread alive i set a new personal best again , 11.80 at 117mph , multiple 11.8x passes last week so im super excited to try and get it down to an 11.7x , still on c2 software mind you 😁


----------



## superchargedvwvr6 (Nov 24, 2014)

Need some help finishing my supercharged vento VR6 12v 92.
Engine specs:

Newly rebuild engine swapped from dizzy to coilpack

Vf engineering stage 2 with the newer V3 SCI charger

Will fit 2,25" pulley (12-14psi boost??)
Bosch 315cc injectors
84mm Arias 9:7.1 pistons (3.0)
Stock headgasket
WRD usa high flow head (+5mm intake, +3mm exhaust valves)
TT 268 cams
Ta-technix short runner intake
Supersport 6-2-1 exhaust manifold, 2,5" stainless supersport cat back (stock cat)
MSD coils 10mm HT leads
Custom intercooler
15,5lb flywheel

I am not sure my maximum pressure when the 2,25" pulley is installed, running 8 psi with stock stage 2 pulley.

So my question is can i use the 315cc injectors with stock maf and order the stage 1 united motorsport software?


----------



## M Dski mkIII (Mar 14, 2010)

I have the c2 chip for 30lb injectors and also have a 4" maf housing with maf if your looking for them.


----------



## superchargedvwvr6 (Nov 24, 2014)

Is it for OBD1 coilpack? Stage 1 or 1,5 ? Can i use my stock MAF?


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Obd1 is lacking. If you do get the car running good you'll run out of injector before 5k most likely. 
I'm running a 2.62" on a v2 with Megasquirt. 30lb injectors wouldn't cut it. Running ~42lb injectors now and haven't had any issues. Was seeing around 13-14psi. 

APC: nice numbers. I've been in the rebuild stages and swapping all my good into a mk1 drop top. I'm hoping to get to the track at least once when it's ready. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## superchargedvwvr6 (Nov 24, 2014)

The V2 you have and the V3 sci have mostly the same specs right? If you see 13-14psi with 2,62 my V3 will have brooken bearings after few miles with 2,25"..!?
Just got thinking that I bought a verry SMAL pulley (2,25").. Anyone else tryed a small pulley on the "new" V3 for the VF stg. 2?

Should I just go #42 or #36 injectors and 4" maf housing? (If my pulley will work)


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

Your pulley will likely experience a lot of slip aswell. 42lb tune and the matching 4" MAF will be plenty


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## M Dski mkIII (Mar 14, 2010)

It's obd2 sorry for the late reply.


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

Just make sure whatever pulley you are getting doesn't max out your charger's impeller velocity. Usually anything over 15psi on a V1/2/3 would need HD bearings, which aren't cheap.


----------



## superchargedvwvr6 (Nov 24, 2014)

My charger will hit 60000RPM with the 2,25" pulley (7000 RPM over the sc's limit) Read on a amcar forum that a drag guy had overspeed his different vortech chargers for years without any problems. I am thinking it would not be a problem for my VR cause I would overspeed the charger when I hit 6000RPM-> Not many % of the chargers internal liftime will be used over the limit.. Not healty of course

Experience with overspeeding anyone?


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

superchargedvwvr6 said:


> My charger will hit 60000RPM with the 2,25" pulley (7000 RPM over the sc's limit) Read on a amcar forum that a drag guy had overspeed his different vortech chargers for years without any problems. I am thinking it would not be a problem for my VR cause I would overspeed the charger when I hit 6000RPM-> Not many % of the chargers internal liftime will be used over the limit.. Not healty of course
> 
> Experience with overspeeding anyone?


Bearing life will be short lived most likely. I plan to run a 22t cog pulley next season which will be 61-62k rpm


----------



## superchargedvwvr6 (Nov 24, 2014)

APCXxstovetopxX said:


> Bearing life will be short lived most likely. I plan to run a 22t cog pulley next season which will be 61-62k rpm


Yes most likely. Charger is new so it wont be a problem the first summer i hope..
Which software/injectors are your planning with 22t cog?


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

superchargedvwvr6 said:


> Yes most likely. Charger is new so it wont be a problem the first summer i hope..
> Which software/injectors are your planning with 22t cog?


Currently im on 42# , ill be going with megasquirt and seeing at what psi/rpm the injectors run out at to decide what injectors to replace them with


----------



## superchargedvwvr6 (Nov 24, 2014)

APCXxstovetopxX said:


> Currently im on 42# , ill be going with megasquirt and seeing at what psi/rpm the injectors run out at to decide what injectors to replace them with


I am going to try with the 36#, 4" MAF and the C2 stg 1,5 tune, just need to buy them first.. Hard to find used for a reasonable price.


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

superchargedvwvr6 said:


> I am going to try with the 36#, 4" MAF and the C2 stg 1,5 tune, just need to buy them first.. Hard to find used for a reasonable price.



Honestly i wouldnt waste ur time id go right to 42#


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

almost finished with this........

SP - built 24v
UM - software
Supercharger innovations - Cogs
V9 supercharger
and lots of custom parts.........


----------



## M Dski mkIII (Mar 14, 2010)

I noticed my v1 was dumping out oil. I ordered the cover o ring and a new input shaft seal. Hopefully that fixes the leak.
Just put in my new trans, oil return line, hks bov, new oil cooler o rings, gruven parts short shifter. Still have to re align my shifting. Hopefully the charger seals will be here by tomorrow so I can get my mk3 back on the road. It's been sitting for almost a month.


----------



## superchargedvwvr6 (Nov 24, 2014)

APCXxstovetopxX said:


> Honestly i wouldnt waste ur time id go right to 42#


I would if there where some 42# software for OBD1. Much harder to fint compared to the 36#


----------



## vToe (Oct 19, 2003)

Figured everyone here would like this. 

Mk5 R32 stock compression running 10psi with a rotrex c30-94 and cogs


----------



## gpassat03 (Aug 5, 2009)

Does anyone knows belt size for v1 on mk3 with stock pulley but a/c deleted ?


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

Gates FleetRunner K060578HD, 6rib, 57.81" is what I ran on my car.
I had a V1 on the AMS bracket, with single idler, with a 2.87" pulley.

Here is the info I had gathered on belts when I had my VR;


```
No a/c, single idler, 2.87" 6 rib pulley, 6 rib belt using AMS mount - 58 3/8" (Gates 060578)

No a/c, single idler, ~3.12" 7 rib pulley, 6 rib belt using AMS mount.
EDIT: correct length for future searches is 58.5" or a 6pk1485 belt

No a/c, AMS with no idler, 53.5"

Length of VR6 Vortech SC belt W/ AC
60.5" 7 rib single sided 

Gatorback
****4060578 (6PK1470) = 6rib 57.75
4080605/4080610 (8rib, cut to 7)
4060605 = 6 rib 60.5"

Dayco
5060575 = 6 rib 57.5"
5060605 = 6 rib 60.5"
5070610 = 7 rib 61.58" **GOOD**

Gates FleetRunner (http://tinyurl.com/bqx9f45)
K060578HD = 6rib 57.81(Current NAPA)
K060569HD = 6rib 56.99
K060575HD = 6rib 57.5
K070640HD = 7rib 64"
K060615HD = 6rib 61.5"
```


----------



## gpassat03 (Aug 5, 2009)

^^^Thank you very much :thumbup:


----------



## M Dski mkIII (Mar 14, 2010)

Any one that can tell me how to clock my charger outlet to point at the front of the car instead of towards the fire wall? I'm now running a Sri and my piping goes right over the exhaust manifold. I was hoping I can clock the charger and run a front mount easily. V1 charger


----------



## trh1157 (Nov 29, 2013)

*on the clock*

I'm running a VF stage 1 and my v9 points straight down at about 5 o'clock. I would like to change mine so it is pointing to the back at about 9 o'clock. Id be interested in how to do it as well?


----------



## WVMkIIVW (Oct 22, 2007)

My V9 on my ZF set-up is pointing down on my mk4 GTI; not sure how the V9 is in terms of being able to rotate the housing, but since I'm tearing into mine this weekend for a bearing change I'll let you know. I'm not able to use any other orientation in my '03 GTI, but I should be able to tell if you can rotate it as I'm working on it.


----------



## WVMkIIVW (Oct 22, 2007)

My V9 on my ZF set-up is pointing down on my GTI; not sure how the V9 is in terms of being able to rotate the housing, but since I'm tearing into mine this weekend for a bearing change I'll let you know. I'm not able to use any other orientation in my '03 GTI, but I should be able to tell if you can rotate it as I'm working on it.


----------



## M Dski mkIII (Mar 14, 2010)

I was told the v1/2 can rotate but I haven't torn mine off to check. No idea about the v9 but let us know what you find :thumbup:


----------



## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

V9 you loosen the big V-band clamp holding the air intake/exhaust housing to the mechanical part and rotate the air housing until you like it, then tighten the V-band clamp up.


----------



## trh1157 (Nov 29, 2013)

Do the intake and exhaust sides rotate independently? I'd like to keep the existing intake for the charger at about the same location/orientation so I can extend it to the other side of the engine. I would like to have it follow the same general path the of the existing pressure side piping and then have it turn up into the engine bay. I'm wanting to do this to get the air filter up off the ground while also providing a straight section of pipe to minimize turbulence issues with the MAF. To much water on the road in Seattle area to have the air filter where it is now located.


----------



## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

I'm not sure I'm following your question - the V9 intake is on the side and the exhaust points to the back as fitted to a VR engine. Turning the housing does not change where the intake is; only the exhaust moves.
The intake pipe on mine (Corrado) has a 90 degree bend right next to the blower's intake, the intake pipe then point down and is stuck into the area behind the front bumper. I don't see an easy way to change this or I would have.
The exhaust points aft. Adjusting the belt tension makes the exhaust point up or down a little which mis-aligns the boost pipe. That's why the charger's housing can be rotated - to get the exhaust lined up with the boost pipe.


----------



## trh1157 (Nov 29, 2013)

Thanks for the response/clarification. My intake is as you described. My exhaust (pressure) side exits at about 4:00, then goes horizontally between the engine and radiator and comes up the other side of the engine. First goal is to get the air filter up off the ground (Seattle rain). If I can extend the intake piping to the other side of the engine between the radiator and then 90 up into the engine compartment near the battery, I hope to eliminate issues with sucking water. I have also had MAF issues and thought the MAF could be relocated into a longer section of straight pipe that might eliminate turbulence. I understand turbulence may be the cause of some MAF issues.

At a much later date (i.e. when money is available - sometime around 2037) , I'm considering increasing V9 air flow by having it converted to a "G" trim during rebuild with high speed bearings (40,000 miles on charger now but still seems to work well) and increasing charger speed with smaller pulley. From what I understand, this would be equivalent to or slightly better than the original VF Stage 2 and would likely require intercooler (considering AWIC near current battery and washer container location), larger injectors and new tune.

So, if I can rotate the pressure side outlet towards the firewall and run the pressure piping around the back of the engine now, this would free up space for possible future modifications while allowing me to relocate air filter and reduce risk of sucking up water.


----------



## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

You can turn the exhaust outlet to anywhere in the circle by loosening the one big V-band clamp that holds the housing together. The intake's center is also the center of rotation of the housing - this means the intake stays in the same place when the housing is turned.


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

Hey guys just wanted to share a video my buddy put together for my car as the season wraps up, best time of 11.66 this year. Big things to come next year i hope.


----------



## WVMkIIVW (Oct 22, 2007)

theprf said:


> V9 you loosen the big V-band clamp holding the air intake/exhaust housing to the mechanical part and rotate the air housing until you like it, then tighten the V-band clamp up.


Thanks! :thumbup:


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

Anyone making upgrades this winter? Kinda dead in here :wave:


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

i have a v9 24v getting wrapped up with some cog upgrades and new cooling system and a v1 charged 12v that's getting an intercooler to go with its upped boost via 22t charger cog upgrade. nothing to fun to see in photos at this time yet, once something visually changes ill be sure to post up.


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

*Kinda quick*

I am waiting for the tracks to open back up to see how deep into the 10s I can go before making any real changes. 

Or I might just put the car up for sale.


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

carsluTT said:


> i have a v9 24v getting wrapped up with some cog upgrades and new cooling system and a v1 charged 12v that's getting an intercooler to go with its upped boost via 22t charger cog upgrade. nothing to fun to see in photos at this time yet, once something visually changes ill be sure to post up.


i saw your working with supercharger innovations for the cog stuff, super excited to see some supercharged VRs push the limits 



vw1320 said:


> I am waiting for the tracks to open back up to see how deep into the 10s I can go before making any real changes.
> 
> Or I might just put the car up for sale.


i don't think anyone will appreciate the car enough to justify selling it haha, just keep pushing :thumbup: I'm too anxious to not upgrade since i have to pull it apart anyway


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

Most likely I will just keep it parked until I get the itch again. But if someone wanted it I wouldn't be opposed to letting it go. Plenty of other stuff I want to build.


----------



## M Dski mkIII (Mar 14, 2010)

Found out to clock the v1(change outlet direction) all you have to do is loosen the 6 allen heads surrounding the inlet side of the charger. Once they are loose or removed you can turn it which ever way you'd like super simple. Just finally got around to it today. Now to get some piping and start planning for the FMIC.


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

Hey all. I've bought (in-process) a v9 G-trim stage 2 kit from a Vortexer (skatedvs420) and I have some questions. 

I'll be running stock compression and adding E9's stage 2 cog kit (64t crank, 30t charger). I already have a UM N/A tune with TT cams (which will be staying). I'd like to stick with UM for the tune, but I need to know what I need for my fuel system. I assume R32 MAF, bigger injectors, a FPR & a bigger pump, but I'm not sure what to put together.

Any help would be appreciated.

2.8 24V VR6, btw


----------



## hiatussk8rs (Jul 30, 2003)

GRN6IX said:


> Hey all. I've bought (in-process) a v9 G-trim stage 2 kit from a Vortexer (skatedvs420) and I have some questions.
> 
> I'll be running stock compression and adding E9's stage 2 cog kit (64t crank, 30t charger). I already have a UM N/A tune with TT cams (which will be staying). I'd like to stick with UM for the tune, but I need to know what I need for my fuel system. I assume R32 MAF, bigger injectors, a FPR & a bigger pump, but I'm not sure what to put together.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.


Contact United Motorsports for specific fueling needs that will go along with their tune. I know for my setup i had to go with an r32 maf , 630 cc injectors etc etc. They should get you squared away so you know what you need to purchase.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

I emailed then but have yet to hear. I figured I'd try here since there's so many people with similar setups.


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

So I called UM, the guy that answered the phone seemed less than enthused to be answering my questions. He said (for my 2.8) to use the stock FPR, which goes against everything I've read (should be 4bar), my stock MAF sensor (their website says R32 MAF) and the 630cc injectors. That was the only thing that seemed to make sense. Can anyone help me out? I know I need 630's, but what about the MAF & FPR?


----------



## Jo|\| (Jul 3, 2011)

GRN6IX said:


> So I called UM, the guy that answered the phone seemed less than enthused to be answering my questions. He said (for my 2.8) to use the stock FPR, which goes against everything I've read (should be 4bar), my stock MAF sensor (their website says R32 MAF) and the 630cc injectors. That was the only thing that seemed to make sense. Can anyone help me out? I know I need 630's, but what about the MAF & FPR?


Yeah, that's what you tend to get with UM, but they are good tunes.

My 24v 2.8 supercharger UM tune was setup for 4bar and R32 MAF.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

GRN6IX said:


> Hey all. I've bought (in-process) a v9 G-trim stage 2 kit from a Vortexer (skatedvs420) and I have some questions.
> 
> I'll be running stock compression and adding E9's stage 2 cog kit (64t crank, 30t charger). I already have a UM N/A tune with TT cams (which will be staying). I'd like to stick with UM for the tune, but I need to know what I need for my fuel system. I assume R32 MAF, bigger injectors, a FPR & a bigger pump, but I'm not sure what to put together.
> 
> ...




Hey bud used to co own E9 can answer your questions. 

1) If youre going to run cogs, you will be required to upgrade your V9 with Race Grade Bearings which will require you to send your charger out to get rebuilt Roughly 4-700 dollars dending on what bearing upgrade. 

2) Upgrade to a UM STG 2 tune with 630 Injectors stock MA4/4" alum housing. TT cams are a good mid range camshaft that will compliment the charger well. 

3) You should see roughly 7 PSI of consistent Boost. Now that's all fine except you will want to ensure youre not using the Plastic tubing that came with the VF kits. they have been known to develop Pin holes in the blow molded plastic and can limit your performance. if you must use the plastic tubing, replace the silicone and get better clamps. I can assist you in getting new pieces for the kit. Just let me know shoot me a PM and well go from there

4) UM uses the OEM 4 bar FPR, don't change it.... VFE uses a 5 bar... toss it out if it comes w/ the kit. UNLESS YOU HAVE A 2,8L then use YOUR stock MAF as it goes with the tune. 

5.)don't need an inline pump however you will want something as a failsafe. Get a DW65 Deutchwerke replacement In tank Pump. it outflows a Walbro as its 265LPH and is a direct plug and play into the OEM fuel connectors. 

6). You will want to look into a new clutch at some point if youre over 100k. the SC will wear it down faster, esp if you launch the car. 

7.) if you get cogs. you CANNOT 2step the car in a parking lot. You cannot free rev it at shows or soundoffs. if you 2STEP in a manner other than under load driving or on a track... you increase the risk of the bearings prematurely failing. Don't take the risk. 

8.) You will need a fluidampr, the Cog kit comes with one if you incl that option, however I can get you one as well... just lmk

9.) Make Sure you have $1k in reserve incase something breaks or you need a rebuild for the supercharger. things begin to get more expensive when you add boost.


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

Awesome! I got your PM & I'll definitely be in touch.


----------



## vToe (Oct 19, 2003)

BOUDAH said:


> 3) You should see roughly 7 PSI of consistent Boost. .


8-9psi eace: eace:


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

Idk man everyone's car is diff. The people I've talked to report roughly 7 real world. But by the math should b 8/9. 

7 is conservative I guess .. just trying to be realistic. Now Jamals is 9 ish for sure 

Ps. I miss Mr Subz...

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


----------



## hiatussk8rs (Jul 30, 2003)

BOUDAH said:


> Idk man everyone's car is diff. The people I've talked to report roughly 7 real world. But by the math should b 8/9.
> 
> 7 is conservative I guess .. just trying to be realistic. Now Jamals is 9 ish for sure
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


I got a tune from UM and estimated to do 10-12psi depending on what size pulley I throw on..... also not sure if it's true but heard some say with straight cut gear charger you will see an additional 1psi 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

The tune doesn't make the psi, ha. The pulley sizing and intercooler / piping length is what dictates that. 

Um just says that their tuning is supported to X number. Doesn't mean you'll make that. 

Also the gearing on the straight cut is 3.45 as oposed to 3.6:1. So it will make the same boost sooner. Not really more psi rather, sooner 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


----------



## hiatussk8rs (Jul 30, 2003)

BOUDAH said:


> The tune doesn't make the psi, ha. The pulley sizing and intercooler / piping length is what dictates that.
> 
> Um just says that their tuning is supported to X number. Doesn't mean you'll make that.
> 
> ...


I know that they gave me a range the tune would be good for. I have couple different sets of pullies I'm going to play with. But the 22 tooth should get me there. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

I will hopefully be able to contribute more to this thread soon. By the end of this month I'll hopefully have this all running on my 12v mk3:

V1 is getting sent in for a full rebuild
14psi cog kit
UM stage 2 tune
Injectors
4" MAF
Maybe a fuel pump
All new charge pipe with a forge DV
New intake setup and MAF routed to driver side of vehicle

As of right now, I've had my AMS kit running flawlessly the past 7 months at 5psi (at elevation in Denver). It's been a DD all around town, driven up to the mountains and back no problems. It's quite slow but I've had no serious issues yet with the way it runs, which has been nice considering the age of the kit.

Check out my build thread on the car here if you're interested. Can't wait to report back with the results. Many pics and videos will be had since people seem to not be good about those with these types of builds.


----------



## vdubxcrew (Jul 25, 2004)

I have an OBD1 95 EA code VR6 that I have a prototype Vortech V5 H-trim I'm putting on. I have a C2 36# supercharger chip and supposedly it supports up to 350hp with just the addition of 36# injectors and a 4" Maf housing. I plan on running somewhere between 11-15psi and was wondering if it is also necessary to upgrade the fuel pump?


----------



## turbo mike (Dec 8, 2005)

def upgrade. whether it be inline or a upgraded in tank pump


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

Tap the block or tap the oil pan for the return? There seems to be pros & cons to both.

I've searched the thread, with minimal results


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

GRN6IX said:


> Tap the block or tap the oil pan for the return? There seems to be pros & cons to both.
> 
> I've searched the thread, with minimal results


Tapping the block is just dumb. I would tap the pan 100% - easier to replace/plug in the future...I did mine in the back of the pan.


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

Anyone else? VF recommends tapping the block, in the front. Obviously I'd like to make a modification that could be reversed though.


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

GRN6IX said:


> Anyone else? VF recommends tapping the block, in the front. Obviously I'd like to make a modification that could be reversed though.


tap/weld bung onto the pan and be done with it. i have done plenty this way an no bus full of nuns have had issues. hell send me your pan and ill take care of it! 

:beer:


----------



## vToe (Oct 19, 2003)

Peetah05 said:


> Tapping the block is just dumb. I would tap the pan 100% - easier to replace/plug in the future...I did mine in the back of the pan.


Just be sure to tap it higher then this. Ideally you want the returned oil to be free flowing and unobstructed so above the oil level line is preferred. If the flow isn't adequate it'll back up in the charger and cause windage and at worst leaking seals.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

GRN6IX said:


> Anyone else? VF recommends tapping the block, in the front. Obviously I'd like to make a modification that could be reversed though.


What VTOE said. Tap the pan and have your line as unobstructed as possible or it will backup. Seen it too many times 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

Thanks guys. What size is the drain line coming off the charger? -10AN? I have a guy locally that can get it welded up for me.


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

Vf. If a V9 F/G. Was a 3/8 NPT get an An adapter for -10 an. 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

Thinking of getting one of these:

http://vr6parts.com/onlinestore/index.php/volkswagen/vr6/24-valve/24vr6oilhousing.html 

Any thoughts, experience? I like the idea of sending filtered oil to the charger.


----------



## hiatussk8rs (Jul 30, 2003)

GRN6IX said:


> Thinking of getting one of these:
> 
> http://vr6parts.com/onlinestore/index.php/volkswagen/vr6/24-valve/24vr6oilhousing.html
> 
> Any thoughts, experience? I like the idea of sending filtered oil to the charger.


Ive got it on my VR6... its a nice unit... kinda wish the thread at the top were a lil more spread out so fittings can be installed easier. But with the right fittings it works and cleans things up.










Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

hiatussk8rs said:


> kinda wish the thread at the top were a lil more spread out so fittings can be installed easier. But with the right fittings it works and cleans things up.


Adding temp & pressure senders/gauges, so I hope they fit on there. I've gone with Newsouth for both, which supposedly have smaller senders. I guess we'll see. I have a 42 Draft oil relocation adapter coming, but it looks like I may not need it if I get this thing.


----------



## hiatussk8rs (Jul 30, 2003)

GRN6IX said:


> Adding temp & pressure senders/gauges, so I hope they fit on there. I've gone with Newsouth for both, which supposedly have smaller senders. I guess we'll see. I have a 42 Draft oil relocation adapter coming, but it looks like I may not need it if I get this thing.


The oem oil pressure sender is what makes things tight. For my oil pressure gauge i had to get a 45 degree fitting to make things fit and clear.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

Ordering my billet impeller today. Is the V9 G-trim a clockwise or counter clockwise unit? I didn't realize there was a difference...


----------



## vToe (Oct 19, 2003)

All the vortech kits available for VW's are CCW.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

Anyone have any experience with the billet impellers? 

Since the blower I'm buying needs an impeller (current one is damaged) it looks like a good option. I've been speaking with Jon at Jon Bond Performance (where I'm sending the blower for rebuild) & he's concerned about Todd's (superchargerrebuilds.com) offering since there's really no info provided as to it's construction, whether or not it's balanced, how much it weighs, etc. I can't find any info about it online or otherwise either. Odd.

There's also 928 Motorsports, but they don't have a billet impeller for the V9, just V1 & V2 (I assume they're not the same), but their impellers get rave reviews, and they're patented.


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

GRN6IX said:


> Anyone have any experience with the billet impellers?
> 
> Since the blower I'm buying needs an impeller (current one is damaged) it looks like a good option. I've been speaking with Jon at Jon Bond Performance (where I'm sending the blower for rebuild) & he's concerned about Todd's (superchargerrebuilds.com) offering since there's really no info provided as to it's construction, whether or not it's balanced, how much it weighs, etc. I can't find any info about it online or otherwise either. Odd.
> 
> There's also 928 Motorsports, but they don't have a billet impeller for the V9, just V1 & V2 (I assume they're not the same), but their impellers get rave reviews, and they're patented.


If you go with the billet impeller, you need to have the volute machined to match. I sent my V9 into 928 to have them look at the stock impeller and said they could not offer a more efficient one since it was designed more recently already. The v1 and v2 are older units and the impellers are not the same dimensions. I too looked into the billet impeller but no data that I could find except an R32 guy in the uk that replaced a damaged impeller with a billet one. He had the volute machined to match and then something happened to the charger and the discussion pretty much stopped. Maybe he came back but I stopped following. 

Good luck.


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

My cogs arrived! Many props to Michael at Supercharger Innovations. The quality of this product at first glance is amazing, can't wait to put these in soon to really see what they're made of. You can follow the progress next week here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5725635-Project-Clean-Ginster-DD/page4


The kit includes:

Cogged crank pulley
Cogged alternator pulley
Cogged supercharger pulley (you choose what size/psi - I went with the 14-16psi 28T pulley)
Smoothed AC pulley
Upper idler pulley
Cog belt
All necessary hardware

The only extra thing I bought (pictured here( is the smoothed power steering pulley. He offers idlers/brackets for anyone not running AC and/or PS as well. I almost pulled the trigger on his fluidampr cogged crank pulley but didn't want to fork over the $600 or so for it. The nice thing is, I can always upgrade to that in the future. Ok, onto the pictures now.




















This supercharger pulley is definitely NOT going to slip anymore 











Supercharger comes off next week to get rebuilt, which is when I'll be throwing these on - progress photos to follow on that.


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

92jetta9a said:


> If you go with the billet impeller, you need to have the volute machined to match. I sent my V9 into 928 to have them look at the stock impeller and said they could not offer a more efficient one since it was designed more recently already. The v1 and v2 are older units and the impellers are not the same dimensions. I too looked into the billet impeller but no data that I could find except an R32 guy in the uk that replaced a damaged impeller with a billet one. He had the volute machined to match and then something happened to the charger and the discussion pretty much stopped. Maybe he came back but I stopped following.
> 
> Good luck.


Supercharger rebuilds has one specifically for the V9, no machining necessary.


----------



## 92jetta9a (Apr 3, 2007)

GRN6IX said:


> Supercharger rebuilds has one specifically for the V9, no machining necessary.


True but mine is an F trim and the only billet impeller available is the G trim. The guy as I stated before purchased said G trim and had to have the volute machined to fit properly and maintain efficiency.


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

I (will) have a G-trim blower. I've spoken to Todd at SR, no machining necessary.
Also, I'll probably get some nay-sayers on this, but I'm going to rebuild the charger myself:

http://www.starrland.com/supercharger rebuild instructions 2-22-08.pdf <-- searched for a few weeks to find that, not many people rebuilding these on their own. 

I'll be ordering the parts from Todd at SR (59k bearings w/brass cages, ptfe/viton seals). I'm also getting the billet impeller that's been mentioned. Todd did get back to me on that, btw. They are high-speed balanced & weigh around 10-11oz, 5-6oz less than the cast pieces. He doesn't make them & couldn't/wouldn't tell me, but that's not really as important to me as the other factors. I'll be posting a DIY on the rebuild once I get into it.


----------



## vToe (Oct 19, 2003)

Just a couple 'gotchas'. 

- Your v9 and the v1 in the pdf are different in a number of ways. Your CCW charger has a normal right hand thread. Righty tighty, lefty loosey. Heating the impeller will help with getting it on and off. 

- Be mindful when installing the high-speed bearings as they are angular thrust bearings and have a specific orientation. You want pressure in on each other or arrows if they have them facing in. 

- I'm not sure which impeller seal you went with but either, there's no inner case lip like on the v1/v2 meaning you can press the seal in to far. Doing so it'll make contact with the bearing causing drag and possibly damage things. 

- Be careful when installing the impeller not crack the impeller seal or press the seal in during the install causing what I mentioned above(contact with the bearing).

It's not a hard job, but there's def a learning curve.
-Vito

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

Awesome info :thumbup: Hopefully my (eventual) DIY will include all if the little things that I've been reading on overhauling these things.

Get those cogs in yet?


----------



## vToe (Oct 19, 2003)

was emailing, calling, and sending smoke signals on Friday. Need to follow up tomorrow morning.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


----------



## 98DUB (Feb 21, 2003)

Best place to tap a vacuum line for a boost gauge? Off of the FPR?

My setup, not sure if I have shared it with this thread.

V9, UM tune, Intake routed to passenger side


----------



## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

98DUB said:


> Best place to tap a vacuum line for a boost gauge? Off of the FPR?


That's where I tapped mine. It works very nicely.

Battery in the trunk?


----------



## 98DUB (Feb 21, 2003)

theprf said:


> That's where I tapped mine. It works very nicely.
> 
> Battery in the trunk?


Great thanks! Yup, in the trunk


----------



## hiatussk8rs (Jul 30, 2003)

Anyone have experience with ditching the stock fans on a mk4 24v and upgrading to slim atyle fans ? Got a cogged v9 setup with AC still... Would like to ditch the oem setup with something more reliable. Any guidance on how to wire it up using the sock controller and modify it to use stock connectors or will that have to be ditched and a custom one installed?

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

hiatussk8rs said:


> Anyone have experience with ditching the stock fans on a mk4 24v and upgrading to slim atyle fans ? Got a cogged v9 setup with AC still... Would like to ditch the oem setup with something more reliable. Any guidance on how to wire it up using the sock controller and modify it to use stock connectors or will that have to be ditched and a custom one installed?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk


This is probably your best bet:

http://www.nime.co.uk/hardware/mkIVfans


----------



## Jumbopvp (May 1, 2010)

*Changing over from C2 to UM*

I am currently running C2 stage 1 on my s/c vr6 12v 36lb injectors. I heard UM's tune is better and i would love to make that change. I want the stage 2 tune from UM which suggests the #42 injectors. Can the stage 2 run with 36#? I heard someone's s/c vr6 runs fine with the setup. Please advice.


----------



## vToe (Oct 19, 2003)

matt_s said:


> hey guys so I just picked up a 03 GTI with a V9 charger on the 24v VR. I don't really know anything out about this the car, I have the build list. Can someone school me about whats been done to this car. Right now its running 4-5 psi and I would like to get a little bit more out of the car
> 
> ENGINE
> ~ Vortech V9F Supercharger~ Stage 3 pulleys (8-10psi) ((Im only seeing 4-5 psi at WOT))~ Front mounted Intercooler with custom piping ~ Custom air intake ~ Siemens Deka 630cc injectors ~ United Motorsports stage 2 software (Supports up to 500whp) ~ Magnaflow 2.5" full exhaust (cat delete) TRANSMISSION ~ Sachs Stage 4 Performance Clutch kit ~ Sachs Flywheel conversion kit ~ VF Engineering Performance Engine and Transmission mounts SUSPENSION ~ ST Fully adjustable Coilovers WHEELS
> 2 full sets (summers and Winters~ Summers 18" Tenzo-R Type-M Racing Wheels ~ Kuhmo Ecsta tires ~ 10mm ECS Wheel spacers (Rear) ~ Winter tires 17" Extreme winter studded Nokian tires on separate GTI rims INTERIOR ~ Autometer cobalt boost gauge (colour matched) on "A pillar pod"~ AEM digital wide band Air/Fuel gauge in steering pod ~ Projection headlights with low beam HID Halo's ~ Front and Rear Colour matched valences ~ LED Side markers and license plate lights ~ Alpine IVA-W205 head unit ~ Audison SR5 Amplifier (Custom mounted) ~ Hertz Energy 12" Subwoofer in custom sealed enclosure ~ Hertz High Energy comp speakers (Front and Back) I'm sure I'm missing a few other things, car is pushing 350+



The VF stage2 kit's belt wrap design or lack of and the fact that it's only a 6 rib belt you will only ever see 5psi. Without redesigning the brackets for a legacy kit for better belt wrap and width, you can simple run an auxiliary cog pulley conversion that will eliminate belt slip. Short runner intake, headers, and cams would be a nice addition, but after that you would be at the kit's max or really the supercharger's max. You should see about 350fwhp with superb throttle response. :wave::thumbup:


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

Jumbopvp said:


> I am currently running C2 stage 1 on my s/c vr6 12v 36lb injectors. I heard UM's tune is better and i would love to make that change. I want the stage 2 tune from UM which suggests the #42 injectors. Can the stage 2 run with 36#? I heard someone's s/c vr6 runs fine with the setup. Please advice.


You'll need the 42lb injectors with the chip. I am going this route right now and have everything bought, just need to throw in my cogs now. The UM tune will be much better than the C2 for sure. They are spendy (I think I paid $360) but make sure you get the Bosch injectors and not the cheap ones.

I will report back in a week or so when all of this is done.


----------



## Jumbopvp (May 1, 2010)

Peetah05 said:


> You'll need the 42lb injectors with the chip. I am going this route right now and have everything bought, just need to throw in my cogs now. The UM tune will be much better than the C2 for sure. They are spendy (I think I paid $360) but make sure you get the Bosch injectors and not the cheap ones.
> 
> I will report back in a week or so when all of this is done.




i might just change over from c2 stg 1 tune to UM stg 1 and just add headers, cams, exhaust and really make the car run better. After all its a daily driver car for the summer. i will be more than happy with 300hp.


----------



## Jumbopvp (May 1, 2010)

vToe said:


> The VF stage2 kit's belt wrap design or lack of and the fact that it's only a 6 rib belt you will only ever see 5psi. Without redesigning the brackets for a legacy kit for better belt wrap and width, you can simple run an auxiliary cog pulley conversion that will eliminate belt slip. Short runner intake, headers, and cams would be a nice addition, but after that you would be at the kit's max or really the supercharger's max. You should see about 350fwhp with superb throttle response. :wave::thumbup:




Hey vToe can you or anyone point me to the right direction on where to get, cog pulley conversion kit, headers, cams? Is the short runner intake setup your suggesting any different from vf's.?


----------



## vToe (Oct 19, 2003)

Check the link in my sig jumbopvp

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


----------



## jhines_06gli (Feb 3, 2006)

Question for you guys......I'm new to the whole supercharger thing on VRs and seems like it's a fine-tuned art to get it right. Read through most of this stuff, and looking for any MK2 VR guys with a blower. 

Little about the car:
92 GTI VR-swapped(currently OBD1, but swapping to OBD2)
Shrick 268 cams, about everything outside of going in to bottom end. Stock compression, will likely go ahead and install MK4 gasket(so 10.5:1)
Car has no P/S and no A/C, so the belt routing to get 70% or more belt wrap is going to be interesting, but planning to make a roller setup/plate to get it right.

I picked up a VF kit from a MK4 12V with as V9-f trim. Has 3.25" pulley, so assuming that's around 6-8#. I'll likely be going to a 2.5" pulley and try to get boost around 10-12#. I have Bosch 42# injectors, keeping the 4 BAR FPR, running Walbro 255 in-line pump, 2.9L clone intake and have Forge huge DV. I'm probably going with UM tune as my buddy's shop is a dealer for them and all I've read seems pretty consistent. 

My biggest question/issue is the air intake side. UM doesn't say, but since tune is built around their turbo file I'm assuming MAF goes pre-charger? And from reading through all this thread, looks like a short intake just doesn't cut it for the "shelf" tune guys. Gotta run all the way to other side of car? Bizarre, but if it's gonna make the car run better.......I'm down to do it. Just not much room at all in the VR cars to do so, let alone a MK2 while trying to run that 3" pipe across front AND possibly mount an intercooler up there! Anyone have any 12V MK2s with both the intake across the front and the intercooler? Or even just the intake tube, that would at least give me an idea of how you routed stuff. 

So hoping to get it running with current pulley and work down until I get to power level I want to keep for a bit. See if I can be pleased with it or I'll put my turbo kit on.......just thinking it's a bit much power for this tiny car for purposes I use it for(not a race car, just a toy and highway cruiser).

Thanks in advance guys, cars look amazing and lots of thought/trial and error in this thread. Helps a lot!!!
J. Hines

And one last question........the oil return on a V9, with charger mounted it comes off bottom front side of the blower(towards headlight). How the hell do you guys wrap that back around to the backside of the engine and run it downhill the whole time? I'm running a pan with bung return welded to it, just gotta figure out how to route that back there.......don't really know if I want to go the whole drill hole in block route as I may go turbo at a later date and hole in front would be useless to me then.


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

J.Hines, I'm basically running the same setup - 12v with 268's, UM stage 2, 440s, 12psi on a V1, cogs, and all custom fab for the intake piping. You are right, the MAF has to be on the driver side of the vehicle for the tune to run properly. There's two options - you can either run the intake across the front bumper or back towards the firewall and around by the coolant bubble. Most likely requires a battery relocate though.

My fabbing will hopefully be done in two weeks for all of this. I'll report back when it's finished with pics of everything. can't wait!


----------



## jhines_06gli (Feb 3, 2006)

Forgot to mention battery was already in trunk. Do e when swap was do e cause I knew it was getting boost eventually.









That's just slapping the blower in Quick to see what all hose routing I'm gonna need to figure out. The oil feed is perfect, intake and charge pipe my buddy can figure out sine he is ow er of EuroWise and can have his guys make about anything for piping. Still gotta swap to OBD2, so not gonna be right now, just sorting all issues for quicker install. 

And guessing I'll have to figure out running it across by front bumper. Going around the back will be hard due to all heat output and lack of room in MK2 bay. I do have VF mounts, so engine doesn't move and sits slightly higher than stock, but there is a Bosal header back there that takes up more room than factory headers and downtubes. 

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


----------



## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

jhines_06gli said:


> I picked up a VF kit from a MK4 12V with as V9-f trim. Has 3.25" pulley, so assuming that's around 6-8#. I'll likely be going to a 2.5" pulley and try to get boost around 10-12#. I have Bosch 42# injectors, keeping the 4 BAR FPR, running Walbro 255 in-line pump, 2.9L clone intake and have Forge huge DV. I'm probably going with UM tune as my buddy's shop is a dealer for them and all I've read seems pretty consistent.


 that pulley will be good for about 5 pounds. Get the injectors/chip/fpr matched, I think UM needs a 3 bar FPR? Also you're not getting 12 pounds on a v9, the highest seen in the thread here was 10 pounds on a 2.4" pulley.


> My biggest question/issue is the air intake side. UM doesn't say, but since tune is built around their turbo file I'm assuming MAF goes pre-charger? And from reading through all this thread, looks like a short intake just doesn't cut it for the "shelf" tune guys. Gotta run all the way to other side of car? Bizarre, but if it's gonna make the car run better.......I'm down to do it. Just not much room at all in the VR cars to do so, let alone a MK2 while trying to run that 3" pipe across front AND possibly mount an intercooler up there! Anyone have any 12V MK2s with both the intake across the front and the intercooler? Or even just the intake tube, that would at least give me an idea of how you routed stuff.


 you won't need a headspacer or intercooler at 5 pounds or even 7 pounds. I have a 2.7" pulley and get 7 pounds on a stock internals stock compression no intercooler distributor OBD1 VR and it runs great! MAF is pre-charger.


> And one last question........the oil return on a V9, with charger mounted it comes off bottom front side of the blower(towards headlight). How the hell do you guys wrap that back around to the backside of the engine and run it downhill the whole time? I'm running a pan with bung return welded to it, just gotta figure out how to route that back there.......don't really know if I want to go the whole drill hole in block route as I may go turbo at a later date and hole in front would be useless to me then.


Don't run a long return line or the oil will back up the the V9. You can always get an AN cap to cover up the front mounted oil drain if you don't need it later, or sell the pan to someone doing a charger install.

I did a VERY SHORT build thread last year on putting a V9 on one of my cars:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7240127-My-Supercharged-VR-build-(very-short)


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

Yeah correct me if I'm wrong but most people don't run intercoolers until they're 14+ psi. I've seen many people run no intercooler on 12psi in this thread IIRC.


----------



## jhines_06gli (Feb 3, 2006)

Peetah05 said:


> Yeah correct me if I'm wrong but most people don't run intercoolers until they're 14+ psi. I've seen many people run no intercooler on 12psi in this thread IIRC.


Thanks guys. I'll plan to hang onto my psn with the bung welded on back for turbo built later on and just drop my pan and weld in bung to front for now. I have to drop pan to put in rod bolts anyway, so might as well do some welding then too. And yea, 5# isn't gonna even begin to please me, so may just say screw it from the start and get a 2.7" or 2.4" pulley. I need at least 8# to justify trying to keep running the charger for a while and get back on other projects. Happened across this charger setup for so cheap I couldn't say no, so need to run it and see if it's enough for me. Hoping for no rebuild, just not sure on chargers. Feels "tight", but I'm not as familiar with centrifugal as I am with roots or turbos. This is all new ground for me. But guess it's time to learn.....who knows, may love it and get deep I to a better V1/2 blower with cogs and high boost....lol

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


----------



## jhines_06gli (Feb 3, 2006)

Anyone have info on turbine speed calculator on the V9 blowers? I've found info on V1/2 blowers and even V9 with cog setups by tooth count, but not sure about V9 serp belt setup calculations. Doubtful that I'll ever have issues, just like to have all data I can use if possible. Ready to get this stuff put on.....waiting on a few parts and then I can start doing wiring swap and installing parts!:beer: Probly only to figure out I need more parts
Thanks,
J. Hines


----------



## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

I think there's a V9 RPM calculator on either 928motorsports.com or superchargerrebuild.com.
If I recall correctly the 2.4 inch pulley with stock crank pulley at 7000 RPM is at the recommended max V9 rpm, 45 or 48k and you can exceed the V9 recommended max rpm for a little while (how long you are you really going to stay over 7000 rpm?)


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

vToe said:


> Just be sure to tap it higher then this. Ideally you want the returned oil to be free flowing and unobstructed so above the oil level line is preferred. If the flow isn't adequate it'll back up in the charger and cause windage and at worst leaking seals.


As long as the charger is above the oil pan, you can tap it anywhere, hell I've used the drain plug on several turbo set ups and never oil had any oiling issues or leaking seals.


----------



## vToe (Oct 19, 2003)

KubotaPowered said:


> As long as the charger is above the oil pan, you can tap it anywhere, hell I've used the drain plug on several turbo set ups and never oil had any oiling issues or leaking seals.


Just because something can be done, that does not make it 'ideal' like I mentioned. If windage is not a concern for you then so be it. If when your seals fatigue and start to leak and leak heavily because the charger or turbo case is holding to much oil, then so be it. I was just trying to give 'ideal' advice. :beer::thumbup:


----------



## jhines_06gli (Feb 3, 2006)

theprf said:


> I think there's a V9 RPM calculator on either 928motorsports.com or superchargerrebuild.com.
> If I recall correctly the 2.4 inch pulley with stock crank pulley at 7000 RPM is at the recommended max V9 rpm, 45 or 48k and you can exceed the V9 recommended max rpm for a little while (how long you are you really going to stay over 7000 rpm?)


Thanks. Used supercharger rebuilds calculated chart. 
Looks like using stock VR pulley and 2.4" s/c pulley on my V9-f will be slightly over the max Vortech RPM for the blower. Not that I'll be racing the car and currently it never sees 7K RPM shifts just due to no power up that high. I know the blower will change that, just gotta be careful.

But if I did it right that is:
stock pulley - 5.375"
Billet pulley I'm using - 2.4"
V9-f trim blower gearing - 3.61:1
Shifting max of engine - 7,000
Comes out to to 56,594 RPM and MAX for V9-f shows 52,000.


----------



## M Dski mkIII (Mar 14, 2010)

Installing :
28tooth pulley 
660cc injectors 

Recently added:
Sri
LSD
Fmic

Lots of upgrades lately


----------



## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

jhines_06gli said:


> Thanks. Used supercharger rebuilds calculated chart.
> Looks like using stock VR pulley and 2.4" s/c pulley on my V9-f will be slightly over the max Vortech RPM for the blower. Not that I'll be racing the car and currently it never sees 7K RPM shifts just due to no power up that high. I know the blower will change that, just gotta be careful.
> 
> But if I did it right that is:
> ...


Vortech reduced the max V9 RPM some years ago because the bearings were failing too easily. I think they went down to 48 or 49k RPM. I am sure you can over-rev it for an instant without too much trouble. Also some companies offer higher-spec bearings that claim to allow the 59k limit again. Don't remember.

I know what you mean about power up high, shifting at 6500 was enough before. With the blower I have to plan shifts at 6700 or it'll be way over 7000 before you get around to shifting. I like it .


----------



## jhines_06gli (Feb 3, 2006)

Supercharger air intake temp is not as crucial as a turbo car, correct? Been pondering how I'm going to run a long 3" air intake to the blower and it seems I have 2 options.

1- Run it straight down off charger at 90* and through fenderwell into basically a 120* bend coming back up where A/C compressor should sit underneath alternator and up at an angle across front of engine towards upper radiator hose and behind d/s headlight. Be some crazy fabricated piping, but would work I guess.

2- Run it straight back out of charger at 90* and between engine/strut tower. Follow around backside of engine over/behind Bosal header and then back towards front between engine/brake master cyl. and finally into the area behind d/s headlight. 

Now of the 2 options, I would assume heat would be almost the same between the 2. In both cases I would make pipe from 3" mild steel and wrap in exhaust heat wrap. If running across back, I have the Bosal shields that go on header, just need to tap a few holes and install them. 

The engine bay is already so cramped in the VR, going around the back would def. be neater looking and in the end balance out the bay since the charger will be taking up the whole other side with unit and charge piping. Plus would give me the option of almost creating an air channel to bring only cooler air from front grille and from fenderwell area up into the air filter while blocking off the engine bay temp with a heat shield.

I dunno, torn on it, might just make a few mock-ups of things and go from there. Just looking from experience/input
Thanks,
J. Hines


----------



## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

I'm sure the air temp matters, hotter is less dense than you're compressing it more. Can't you run the intake behind the front bumper? I sold my MkII Jetta Coupe in 1991 so my memory on what's there is a little hazy...
This is what I did on my Corrado. I used a MUCH SHORTER air filter that the one in the picture (that one was no more than 1" off the ground).


----------



## jhines_06gli (Feb 3, 2006)

theprf said:


> I'm sure the air temp matters, hotter is less dense than you're compressing it more. Can't you run the intake behind the front bumper? I sold my MkII Jetta Coupe in 1991 so my memory on what's there is a little hazy...
> This is what I did on my Corrado. I used a MUCH SHORTER air filter that the one in the picture (that one was no more than 1" off the ground).


Have to run intake to other side of car and place MAF there because when close it causes incorrect readings. So imagine running your intake 90* and across towards driver side of car 

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


----------



## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

jhines_06gli said:


> Have to run intake to other side of car and place MAF there because when close it causes incorrect readings. So imagine running your intake 90* and across towards driver side of car
> 
> Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


Although you can, you don't actually need to do that. You can see where mine is. Does not have incorrect reading problems.
The secret is using an airflow straightener after the MAF before the supercharger. This honeycomb thing:

I got them from Saxonpc.com. Costs like $15. I stacked two, 1" thick even though I think one would have worked.


----------



## jhines_06gli (Feb 3, 2006)

theprf said:


> Although you can, you don't actually need to do that. You can see where mine is. Does not have incorrect reading problems.
> The secret is using an airflow straightener after the MAF before the supercharger. This honeycomb thing:
> 
> I got them from Saxonpc.com. Costs like $15. I stacked two, 1" thick even though I think one would have worked.


Yea, I have straightener in my MAF housing, but was still going to run across just to be sure there's no issues. May try it just straight down and see how that works first. But also it's very cramped getting into my fender well area with inlet pipe, MAF housing and filter. Car is extremely low and its already tight down there with fog light and radiator support right there. But I guess I'll wait until I get all parts and start installing. See what I come up with then.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

Pulled apart my blower (V9 G-trim) to rebuild it today. Gears are trashed from a failed ceramic bearing. I'm on the lookout for a gear set if anyone has any info on one.


----------



## jhines_06gli (Feb 3, 2006)

GRN6IX said:


> Pulled apart my blower (V9 G-trim) to rebuild it today. Gears are trashed from a failed ceramic bearing. I'm on the lookout for a gear set if anyone has any info on one.


What's best way to check bearing without having it on car running to hear noise? Like a Turbo where you can feel play? Everything seemed right on mine and spins free. When pulling out on pulley, there is a little play, but send normal. And yea, been searching for parts just in case, seems the V9 internals went rogue a few years ago. Would be nice to switch up to the 3.45 gearing of my factory 3.61 were to ever fail. Be nice to lower peak boost RPM a little.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

The bearings should be smooth & quiet. If there is excessive play or noise, the bearings should be replaced. In my case, two of the ceramic bearings in the blower on the compressor shaft shattered & the fragments damaged the teeth of the gears. It also caused the impeller to contact the housing, since it wasn't supported by the bearings. My housing was damaged, but not so much that it's ruined. I'll be able to polish out the damaged spots. All of this was caused by a lack of oil, so I'm told by those who are familiar with my 'charger. 

I've found a set of helical (F-trim) gears for my blower, so that's what I'll be using. Thankfully all the bearings & seals I've already purchased can be used & the F-trim gears fit in the G-trim case. So I'll have F-trim gears & a billet G-trim impeller in my G-trim case.


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

Can anyone confirm/offer advise on intercoolers? Only necessary above 14psi? I feel like the only people I've seen run them are on high boost R32's.


----------



## M Dski mkIII (Mar 14, 2010)

Anyone ever have low boost problems after clocking your v1/v2 the opposite direction?


----------



## M Dski mkIII (Mar 14, 2010)

Found where my boost is going. Rtv time


----------



## jhines_06gli (Feb 3, 2006)

M Dski mkIII said:


> Found where my boost is going. Rtv time


Tear/roll the oring seal behind this compressor cover? 

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


----------



## M Dski mkIII (Mar 14, 2010)

Apparently there is suppose to be an oring for the volute. It went MIA I guess after clocking the charger. So I just used some rtv on it today.


----------



## jon1612 (Apr 11, 2012)

*Ams v1 hardware*

I am missing the hardware for the alternator for my ams kit does anybody know where i can find it or the specs toThe bolts and spacers. Thanks


----------



## M Dski mkIII (Mar 14, 2010)

Ditched my fmic and ordered a AWIC set up from frozen boost.


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

Finished all of the fab on my car this weekend. Beyond stoked on everything! The tune is running flawlessly so far and it's a night and day difference!

Full specs on motor:

Freshly rebuilt V1 charger
Supercharger Innovations cog kit (28T charger pulley)
UM Stage 2 tune
Bosch 440cc injectors
4" MAF with extended wires
Forge Super DV
Custom charge pipe and intake done at Bluewater Performance in Denver
2.5" TT Magnaflow exhaust
TT 268 cams


----------



## M Dski mkIII (Mar 14, 2010)

Peetah05 said:


> Finished all of the fab on my car this weekend. Beyond stoked on everything! The tune is running flawlessly so far and it's a night and day difference!
> 
> Full specs on motor:
> 
> ...


You should post a video!


----------



## nitroTT (Jun 20, 2015)

Has anyone in here super charged a 24v 3.2L vr6. I have a tt and debating on sc or some other type of boost...

Sent from my LGLS770 using Tapatalk


----------



## dom.joy (Mar 24, 2016)

Hopefully someone can help.
I have a Vortech V1 fitted to my 12v VR6 and looking to upgrade to a 8-10PSI set up.
Does anyone know what diameter pulley I need? Stock setup except injectors.
Thanks


----------



## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

dom.joy said:


> Hopefully someone can help.
> I have a Vortech V1 fitted to my 12v VR6 and looking to upgrade to a 8-10PSI set up.
> Does anyone know what diameter pulley I need? Stock setup except injectors.
> Thanks


It's either 3.12 or 2.87. I'm thinking it's the former, as folks tend to make more than 10psi with the latter

Sent from my HTC One M9


----------



## dom.joy (Mar 24, 2016)

prometheus_ said:


> It's either 3.12 or 2.87. I'm thinking it's the former, as folks tend to make more than 10psi with the latter
> 
> Sent from my HTC One M9


Thank you.
It turns out I have a 3.1" pulley already. I was under the impression it was 3.25" stage 1 pulley. Just need to sort out my belt slip and get some bigger injectors and I should see a bit more power


----------



## M Dski mkIII (Mar 14, 2010)




----------



## a/mRADO (Feb 1, 2015)

Does anyone know the correct rotation that a v1 charger spins? Is it clockwise or counterclockwise?


----------



## M Dski mkIII (Mar 14, 2010)

Ccw


----------



## M Dski mkIII (Mar 14, 2010)

Depending on which v1 you get that is.


----------



## a/mRADO (Feb 1, 2015)

Thanks that's what I thought


----------



## Canananada3456 (May 27, 2007)

V1 t trim
750cc injectors (e85 in the future)
24teeth cog pulleys
1mm oversized valves 
TT 264/260
"Custom headers"
3" exhaust 
Vems
Water/meth at 10psi
O2m swap

I'm hoping (dreaming) for at least 350 hp


Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

Nice setup. If you need help reaching your goals my services are available for hire.


----------



## matt_s (May 30, 2007)

ok guys so i just bought this car and I don't really know a lot about it. I am also about to go on a 1600km road trip with the car. The guy I bought it from said I can ONLY run 94 octane fuel. Now I can't get 94 at every gas station on my road trip, actually most places I can only get 91 octane. Will It be safe to run 91 in the car or should I add a bottle of octane boost with every tank of fuel? The trip will be all highway miles at about 110km/h.

This is what has been done to the car. I don't want to run into any problems on my drive as it will be at night and I won't have cell service for a good portion of the drive. 

~ Vortech V9F Supercharger~ Stage 3 pulleys (8-10psi) ((Im only seeing 4-5 psi at WOT))~ Front mounted Intercooler with custom piping ~ Custom air intake ~ Siemens Deka 630cc injectors ~ United Motorsports stage 2 software (Supports up to 500whp) ~ Magnaflow 2.5" full exhaust (cat delete) Autometer cobalt boost gauge (colour matched) on "A pillar pod"~ AEM digital wide band Air/Fuel gauge in steering pod.


Thanks for the help guys


----------



## vToe (Oct 19, 2003)

Plain Jane 630cc file from UM was written for 91. At 4-5 psi at max rpm you don't have to worry about anything. Assuming this is for a 24v?

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


----------



## matt_s (May 30, 2007)

vToe said:


> Plain Jane 630cc file from UM was written for 91. At 4-5 psi at max rpm you don't have to worry about anything. Assuming this is for a 24v?
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


Yes this is on a 24v. So there is really no need to be running 94 in the car at all. That is perfect! I shouldn't see any problems running lean under boost then with 91?


----------



## M Dski mkIII (Mar 14, 2010)

Parting mine

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-set-up-cogged-Sri-AWIC-lugtronic-bov-Wapshhh


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

Cogs with a proper intake sound great


----------



## vToe (Oct 19, 2003)

matt_s said:


> Yes this is on a 24v. So there is really no need to be running 94 in the car at all. That is perfect! I shouldn't see any problems running lean under boost then with 91?


The 550cc injectors max out high 400awhp. At 4-5psi on the 630's you have plenty of head room high 200awhp you're probably seeing no lean condition needs to be worried about. When you want to make consistent 8-9 psi with the kit you have hit me up.


----------



## peruski (Mar 28, 2006)

theprf said:


> Although you can, you don't actually need to do that. You can see where mine is. Does not have incorrect reading problems.
> The secret is using an airflow straightener after the MAF before the supercharger. This honeycomb thing:
> 
> I got them from Saxonpc.com. Costs like $15. I stacked two, 1" thick even though I think one would have worked.


What size/cell size did you use? Saxonpc has a bunch of options. My SCharger hasn't arrived yet but this looks like it's worth taking a look before routing the intake across the car... Thanks


----------



## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

peruski said:


> What size/cell size did you use? Saxonpc has a bunch of options. My SCharger hasn't arrived yet but this looks like it's worth taking a look before routing the intake across the car... Thanks


I used this link:
http://saxonpc.com/100mm-cells-for-100.html
Then I selected 75mm. Get the one that matches the diameter of your MAF. In my case an OBD1 MAF is 75mm diameter. 75mm is essentially 3 inches (it's actually 2.952"). I used two and stacked them.
I have no idea what cell ratio I got, probably the default of 4:1?


----------



## dom.joy (Mar 24, 2016)

I never seem to make any boost in 1st gear?
Any one any ideas what could be causing this? Tune? Position of air filter? Belt slip?
I dont believe its a boost leak as when it is boosting in higher gears it holds boost well.


----------



## peruski (Mar 28, 2006)

Does anyone know the size pulley included with the VF engineering stage 2 kit? My used blower arrived and it has a couple of cracks in the pulley and a bent rib. Unfortunately the number is also rubbed off the face. 

Been searching the web and I've come up with either 2.70" or 2.62" 

I want to replace it before I install.

Thanks


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

peruski said:


> Does anyone know the size pulley included with the VF engineering stage 2 kit? My used blower arrived and it has a couple of cracks in the pulley and a bent rib. Unfortunately the number is also rubbed off the face.
> 
> Been searching the web and I've come up with either 2.70" or 2.62"
> 
> ...


It's 2.62"


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

Finally rebuilt my blower. After many issues, I've got it all figured out.

I bought a V9 G-trim from the classifieds here, knowing it needed a rebuild. When I opened it up, the ceramic bearings on the output shaft had failed, sending pieces through the gears, ruining them. I searched & searched for another set of straight-cut gears, but they don't seem to exist & Vortech won't sell any spare parts (I knew this already).

So, I bought a set of helical gears from Supercharger Rebuilds, along with a full rebuild kit with the high-speed, steel bearings & a billet, g-trim impeller.

Once the blower was apart, my machine shop & I realized that the new, helical gear was thicker, so it wouldn't press on the existing shaft:

So after a lot of searching, back & forth with SR (not much help in this regard) & measuring, we decided the shaft needed to be OD ground to fit the new gear. this is what we ended up with:


In case anyone needs to do this in the future .208" needs to be ground from the shaft.

Once that was sorted, it all went together rather quickly:







So it's a g-trim case with f-trim gears & a g-trim billet impeller. 

Just waiting on my cogs from E9 & then the car comes apart for the build!


----------



## peruski (Mar 28, 2006)

GRN6IX said:


> It's 2.62"


Thanks!


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

Cogs are in! I also have a Peloquin LSD coming, which will go great with the Clutch Masters FX400 & slave cylinder I also got from Vito at E9


The slave cylinder looks pretty sweet:
http://www.uspmotorsports.com/Drive...ers-Hydraulic-Slave-Cylinder-Kit-6-speed.html


----------



## hiatussk8rs (Jul 30, 2003)

I picked mine up a few weeks back... pretty nice set up for sure 😀... time to pull the tranny before i finish up my set up and start it. 










Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

Great to see more people running cogs! Post up your progress photos or build threads!


----------



## vToe (Oct 19, 2003)

vortexpert. said:


> wtf
> I didn't get a shirt when I bought my cog setup. I even bought the HEP short runner....


Ha, just got these in before witw. Shoot me an email and I'll get you one out. Not sure what your name is with from your username though. :-D 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

I have a couple of Vortech pullies for sale if anyone is looking for more boost:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7918337-Vortech-Pullies&p=96611321#post96611321


----------



## Jumbopvp (May 1, 2010)

*V9 setup*

Does anyone have full instructions for a V9 sc setup on a mk4 jetta 12v?


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

Jumbopvp said:


> Does anyone have full instructions for a V9 sc setup on a mk4 jetta 12v?


http://www.tyrolsport.com/files/forumpics1/R32Instructions/R32 US Stage 1&2 Instructions.pdf


----------



## boostedbastid (Aug 31, 2009)

Question for you guys, I'm running an AFP with V9F stage 2 setup with SRI and metal supercharger outlet hose (the one in the VF kit was plastic). Has anyone relocated the IAT sensor from the MAF to the intake manifold on this kind of setup? One of my next steps is water/meth and I'd like a more accurate reading of intake temps.


----------



## Jumbopvp (May 1, 2010)

GRN6IX said:


> http://www.tyrolsport.com/files/forumpics1/R32Instructions/R32 US Stage 1&2 Instructions.pdf




Thanks


----------



## Jumbopvp (May 1, 2010)

*Serpentine belt*

how often should you change the serpentine belt? 

Does anyone know where to buy stainless steel pipes for the SC v9 mk4 vr6 setup? I still have the plastic (black) ones and i have noticed tiny holes at the parting line of my pipes.


----------



## boostedbastid (Aug 31, 2009)

Jumbopvp said:


> how often should you change the serpentine belt?
> 
> Does anyone know where to buy stainless steel pipes for the SC v9 mk4 vr6 setup? I still have the plastic (black) ones and i have noticed tiny holes at the parting line of my pipes.


I just made one for mine, I can make another one for you if you'd like.


----------



## jhines_06gli (Feb 3, 2006)

Jumbopvp said:


> how often should you change the serpentine belt?
> 
> Does anyone know where to buy stainless steel pipes for the SC v9 mk4 vr6 setup? I still have the plastic (black) ones and i have noticed tiny holes at the parting line of my pipes.


I have the upgraded stainless one from VF that came with my kit I believe. Was originally for a MK4, but it's going in my MK2, so I'll be making customer piping for all. I can see if I can track it down in all my boxes. Let me know.

J. Hines


----------



## Jumbopvp (May 1, 2010)

*Discharge pipe.*

Can someone please take a look a the picture? My discharge pipe has a ventilation hole. Should it be blocked or open to atmosphere? I noticed when blocked the car doesn't like it and it messes with the idle and revs.

MK4 2000 Jetta vr6 12V 


http://i392.photobucket.com/albums/pp3/ticov4/Discharge Pipe_zpsxrbuzno9.jpg


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

That should definitely be plugged and not open. Is your DV hooked up correctly?


----------



## boostedbastid (Aug 31, 2009)

Jumbopvp said:


> Can someone please take a look a the picture? My discharge pipe has a ventilation hole. Should it be blocked or open to atmosphere? I noticed when blocked the car doesn't like it and it messes with the idle and revs.
> 
> MK4 2000 Jetta vr6 12V
> 
> ...


that goes to the shrouded injectors.


----------



## Jumbopvp (May 1, 2010)

Peetah05 said:


> That should definitely be plugged and not open. Is your DV hooked up correctly?



Honestly i am not sure. I had someone do it and i am going through to checking... i followed the r32 instructions but i have a feeling that i am missing some details.


----------



## Jumbopvp (May 1, 2010)

boostedbastid said:


> that goes to the shrouded injectors.


Do have any pictures or instructions?


----------



## boostedbastid (Aug 31, 2009)

Jumbopvp said:


> Do have any pictures or instructions?


At the end of the fuel rail on the lower intake manifold, driver's side.


----------



## Jumbopvp (May 1, 2010)

boostedbastid said:


> At the end of the fuel rail on the lower intake manifold, driver's side.




Thanks a lot for the help.


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

bumping this up, new setup being tuned, 22t cogs, v1 charger, mk4 HG , 268 DRC , currently no intercooler and on a 2.9 clone trying to tune it conservative for the street and put some racegas in at the track


----------



## vampvr (Apr 13, 2010)

Hi, does anyone has the cog belt part no. used with the v9 cogged kit? i would really appreciate if someone can give me that info


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

Finally got my car on the road, but now I'm dealing with some serious DV flutter on decel. I have a good vacuum source (verified with gauge), but when I let off the gas at higher RPMs, I can hear the valve fluttering along with some other noises which I imagine is compressed air backing into the charger. 

I've tried the valve mounted in both directions & in different locations (after intercooler, before, discharge after the MAF) with the same result. I even tried a softer spring in the DV (comes stock with the stiffest (30psi) spring).

Setup:
24V Vr6
V9 G-trim
E9 cogs
UM S1 FI tune
Forge supersize valve

Help! I can't drive the car like this or I'll ruin the 'charger.


----------



## Canananada3456 (May 27, 2007)

Found this gem cleaning my garage from my old ams kit. Its missing one spacer though. Pm me an offer if you want....

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

GRN6IX said:


> Finally got my car on the road, but now I'm dealing with some serious DV flutter on decel. I have a good vacuum source (verified with gauge), but when I let off the gas at higher RPMs, I can hear the valve fluttering along with some other noises which I imagine is compressed air backing into the charger.
> 
> I've tried the valve mounted in both directions & in different locations (after intercooler, before, discharge after the MAF) with the same result. I even tried a softer spring in the DV (comes stock with the stiffest (30psi) spring).
> 
> ...


You need a much lighter spring in your DV. with cogs you only need enough spring to keep the dv closed at idle. Get a 6psi spring.


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

Vampvr, is it a Supercharger Innovations, E9, or Verdict cog kit? They all use different belts


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

naysayers said:


> You need a much lighter spring in your DV. with cogs you only need enough spring to keep the dv closed at idle. Get a 6psi spring.


I thought so & have a spring tuning kit in the mail. Thanks!


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

Yeah you will want a very soft spring in your DV. I run a Forge Super DV on my cogs and it's working wonders. It opens and shuts super fast as it should. I think it's a 4-6psi spring max.

Keep in mind that when you have cogs and you're off the throttle on decel, the DV should be completely open pushing a TON of air. It's kind of loud and cool to hear how much air is recirculating when it's open.


----------



## vampvr (Apr 13, 2010)

naysayers said:


> Vampvr, is it a Supercharger Innovations, E9, or Verdict cog kit? They all use different belts


Hi, i dont mind which one is it, i only need to buy a belt, were trying to built our own set of cogged pulleys, right now we made our own set of lightweight pulley kit for vr6 and we spent like $200 vs $480 that cost at gruvenparts


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

If you're making your own, your best bet would be to use a string and measure the length when wrapped around every pulley in the correct orientation with the charger in. 

This is the belt I use on my Supercharger Innovations kit for a 24 tooth pulley.

http://shop.polybelt.com/searchquick-submit.sc?keywords=B1552-8M-30BNG


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

Peetah05 said:


> Yeah you will want a very soft spring in your DV. I run a Forge Super DV on my cogs and it's working wonders. It opens and shuts super fast as it should. I think it's a 4-6psi spring max.
> 
> Keep in mind that when you have cogs and you're off the throttle on decel, the DV should be completely open pushing a TON of air. It's kind of loud and cool to hear how much air is recirculating when it's open.




Here are some pics of my setup (it's kind of ugly, I need to get some custom piping):


----------



## vampvr (Apr 13, 2010)

Peetah05 said:


> If you're making your own, your best bet would be to use a string and measure the length when wrapped around every pulley in the correct orientation with the charger in.
> 
> This is the belt I use on my Supercharger Innovations kit for a 24 tooth pulley.
> 
> http://shop.polybelt.com/searchquick-submit.sc?keywords=B1552-8M-30BNG


Thanks, i was looking for this


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

Fueling question for any guru's out there... current setup is UM stage 2, 440's, 225 walbro, ~14psi on a V1, 12v with 268 cams.

After doing a fuel pump and test pipe on my car, I've noticed an increase in power but getting some weird power loss up top. Once I hit 5500-6k RPM my car is popping loud out the exhaust almost like a misfire and all power drops immediately. If I shift fast after this happens, the second I'm back in WOT it just doesn't move at all. If I stay in lower rev's this never happens at all and car drives perfectly normal.

Am I still lacking fuel? Bigger injectors? Bad coilpack? Spark plugs were just replaced a few weeks ago. Let me know what you think...


----------



## naysayers (Jul 5, 2011)

Peetah05 said:


> Fueling question for any guru's out there... current setup is UM stage 2, 440's, 225 walbro, ~14psi on a V1, 12v with 268 cams.
> 
> After doing a fuel pump and test pipe on my car, I've noticed an increase in power but getting some weird power loss up top. Once I hit 5500-6k RPM my car is popping loud out the exhaust almost like a misfire and all power drops immediately. If I shift fast after this happens, the second I'm back in WOT it just doesn't move at all. If I stay in lower rev's this never happens at all and car drives perfectly normal.
> 
> Am I still lacking fuel? Bigger injectors? Bad coilpack? Spark plugs were just replaced a few weeks ago. Let me know what you think...


It sounds like you might be blowing out your spark on the plugs. I would pull them and check the gap or replace them. I run NGK Bkr7e's gapped to about 0.026"


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

naysayers said:


> It sounds like you might be blowing out your spark on the plugs. I would pull them and check the gap or replace them. I run NGK Bkr7e's gapped to about 0.026"


That's what mine are at currently as well, same plugs. I wonder if gapping them down more would solve the problem if that is the case.


----------



## vampvr (Apr 13, 2010)

Quick question, i have a 24v with a v9, should i change it for a v1? Im not planning to put a head spacer or forged pistons, at least not right now


----------



## bmxdarcy (Mar 7, 2006)

*Bearing placement*

GRN6IX When I rebuilt my charger I didn't have good information on pressing this bearing in, how did you set the depth? 



This is the bearing with the built in seal, correct?


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

bmxdarcy said:


> GRN6IX When I rebuilt my charger I didn't have good information on pressing this bearing in, how did you set the depth?
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bearing with the built in seal, correct?


That's just a seal. If you got the same seal, you need to make sure it doesn't contact the bearing inside the case, but otherwise it will seal the output shaft regardless of it's depth. It's the spring-loaded type of seal (not the one pictured) that needs to be flush with the output shaft washer under the compressor wheel.


----------



## bmxdarcy (Mar 7, 2006)

GRN6IX said:


> That's just a seal. If you got the same seal, you need to make sure it doesn't contact the bearing inside the case, but otherwise it will seal the output shaft regardless of it's depth. It's the spring-loaded type of seal (not the one pictured) that needs to be flush with the output shaft washer under the compressor wheel.


Copy! Thanks!


----------



## vToe (Oct 19, 2003)

Finally dyno'd this c38-81 rotrex setup. Came in at 372awhp @18psi on a mustang awd dyno. Very impressed with the results and overall drivability!


----------



## jon1612 (Apr 11, 2012)

*95mm/4" maf*

I will be buying a #42 tune i measured my maf and measures 3 3/4" so my question is, is 95mm same as the 4"?


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

jon1612 said:


> I will be buying a #42 tune i measured my maf and measures 3 3/4" so my question is, is 95mm same as the 4"?


95mm is 3.75 inches


----------



## rhussjr (Aug 7, 2000)

Since I am constantly thinking and trying to improve things that I have done over the years, I have converted my VR6 supercharger bracket design into 3D.


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

Can anyone tell me the size of the (2) bolts that hold a V9 charger to it's bracket?


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

GRN6IX said:


> Can anyone tell me the size of the (2) bolts that hold a V9 charger to it's bracket?


not sure what thread pitch they are but i know the kit i setup had 19mm heads.


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

I have that much, a friend is trying to find the replacement hardware for his build


----------



## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

GRN6IX said:


> Can anyone tell me the size of the (2) bolts that hold a V9 charger to it's bracket?


They're not 19mm heads - they are 3/4 inch heads - it's easy to confuse them with 19mm because 3/4" is 0.750" as opposed to 19mm which is 0.748". The thread is 1/2-20 (UNF, that is to say fine pitch).
I would recommend using high strength bolts, not the cheap zinc plated hardware store bolts.


----------



## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

theprf said:


> They're not 19mm heads - they are 3/4 inch heads - it's easy to confuse them with 19mm because 3/4" is 0.750" as opposed to 19mm which is 0.748". The thread is 1/2-20 (UNF, that is to say fine pitch).
> I would recommend using high strength bolts, not the cheap zinc plated hardware store bolts.



Happen to have the length?


----------



## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

I think they're 1". I got mine at Home Depot. Look for "grade 8" bolts. They will have a yellowish tint because they should be chromated for rust protection.


----------



## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

An update. Original post:


theprf said:


> It's a 92 distributor Corrado running a V9 F trim (I think) with the 3.1" pulley, the original VF GIAC software. Drives nice, I've put about 10 miles on it so far.


Since then I've changed to a 2.72" pulley and a C2 OBD 1 tune, good for 7-8 pounds at 7000 RPM.

Thread with a meager amount of additional info, still valid:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7240127-My-Supercharged-VR-build-(very-short)

I have been taking this car to the track this summer. Lots of fun:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?8024457-Tracked-my-car

Went to a dyno day, finally. Put down 234 WHP & 210 WTQ. That's about 80 WHP up on stock setups. I'm pretty happy.  

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?8144145-Dyno-Day-GTG-October-8th-2016-Robbinsville-N

Carry on!


----------



## Peetah05 (Apr 8, 2007)

Car is going on the dyno this Saturday - fingers crossed for numbers that won't break my heart too much. 

UM E85 tune and 630cc injectors are on order - hopefully have all of that in and another dyno in a couple weeks


----------



## harley_steel (Aug 27, 2013)

Been reading this thread from the start. A lot of good information and still a lot to get through. 

Wondering if anyone is running VEMS on a corrado dizzy VR6? Interested to hear opinions on it. Or am I just better off converting the car to use a cp?

I have a VF stage 2 kit, but after reading about GIAC tune running lean and having to deal with the MAF location on top of getting a A/F gauge, part of me thinks it would be worthwhile just going straight to standalone. I plan on running cogged and more boost in the future.


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

Can use with dizzy but could also use a pnp adapter harness to run Bosch motorsports coil and leave dizzy harness. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## vdubxedge (Aug 19, 2003)

Have a quick question. My Vortech V5 has two ports for oil feed. One on top one on bottom. The one one top is blocked by the charger mounting bracket. Is it safe to use the one on the bottom for proper oiling?


----------



## harley_steel (Aug 27, 2013)

I have a V3 that I am going to be running Lugtronics on. I am thinking of running the filter straight off the charger, so I don't have to relocate my Corrado charcoal canister (don't want to delete it as I don't want my garage smelling of gas on a hot day). My question is can I still run my vortech compact DV if I vent it to atmosphere? Or will it not release enough air without the inlet side of the supercharger sucking air through it? I only plan on using the DV below 8 PSI.


----------



## .yuk. (Oct 15, 2004)

So, I picked up a V9 and it has the outer case spray painted red. I would like to get that red off of it. Is it hard to pop the case off on the compressor side? Is it just the vband and a few bolts? I've been looking for info and video's/read about a possible 6 bolts? 

Any info is appreciated. If anyone has spare parts, I'm also looking. IE. Intake pipe, Charge pipe. 

Pic of said red:


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

Hay Yuk....... just pop the cover off and do as you want with it. i've painted/powder coated a few of them


----------



## .yuk. (Oct 15, 2004)

I finally found a pic of it with the cover popped off. Easy to do! Now, can anyone help me with the belt size I need for a car with AC and PS? I am seeing a few different numbers. Last set I found, the belts were not ribbed on both sides. 

Any help is appreciated!


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

save yourself some pain and get cogs....... the SI kit is well built and cake to install


----------



## .yuk. (Oct 15, 2004)

I don't have that extra cash right now. But any help in a belt size for now would be appreciated!


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

12v or 24v ac or not, power steering or not, aux wrap idler or not?....... i have a few non cog belts with super low almost zero miles around the shop. list your exact setup and i will see if theirs something on the shelf that can head your way. :beer:


----------



## .yuk. (Oct 15, 2004)

MK3 12v w/AC and PS. No aux wrap idler. It's a V9 with a Gruvenparts pulley on it. 

I need a better intake pipe and charge pipe too. Especially intake right now. I do have the 4" Maf housing and all, but the rest is junk. You're the best babe. :heart:


----------



## vampvr (Apr 13, 2010)

Hi, does anyone knows the belt lenght it uses a 24v vr6 with a cogged kit v9 charger and 24 tooth charger pulley?

Enviado desde mi MHA-L09 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## .yuk. (Oct 15, 2004)

I sure could use some help with this V9!


----------



## stevevr6 (Dec 13, 2002)

I can use some help also. My setup is as follows:

Mk4 R32 in an mk3 shell. I have a V9 charger and bracket. I know the piping will have to be custom made. I have PS but no AC and would need a belt number as well. I think I'm also missing the tensioner. Where can I find just the tensioner?

Any help would be great.


----------



## Race Prep (Jan 13, 2006)

does anyone have an idler pulley for sale? please let me know. 

engine in question is a MK3 VR6 engine code AAA

thanks

314-401-6400

-Ryan


----------



## .yuk. (Oct 15, 2004)

Anyone have a bracket that attaches to the motor for a V9? Mine is pretty tweaked, putting the charger pulley out of alignment.


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

.yuk. said:


> Anyone have a bracket that attaches to the motor for a V9? Mine is pretty tweaked, putting the charger pulley out of alignment.



I've got one I'd sell you


----------



## Race Prep (Jan 13, 2006)

can anyone offer insight on what fitting is needed from the top of the oil filter housing for the V9? this will be for the oil feed line from the oil filter housing

Motor in question: MK3 VR6 AAA Engine Code

any help is great. thanks again


----------



## .yuk. (Oct 15, 2004)

scirockin16v said:


> I've got one I'd sell you




Hit me with a price! :heart:


----------



## Canananada3456 (May 27, 2007)

Race Prep said:


> can anyone offer insight on what fitting is needed from the top of the oil filter housing for the V9? this will be for the oil feed line from the oil filter housing
> 
> Motor in question: MK3 VR6 AAA Engine Code
> 
> any help is great. thanks again




M10 / 10 mm


----------



## stevevr6 (Dec 13, 2002)

Speaking of oil lines. On a V9 do you just loop from on side of the charger to the other? I will need all the oil lines as well and will be contacting Vito at Exit9. I would like to have a shopping list before I start purchasing things.


----------



## .yuk. (Oct 15, 2004)

I spoke with him last week. He told me he isn't doing superchargers much anymore and didn't really have anything for the V9.


----------



## vToe (Oct 19, 2003)

.yuk. said:


> I spoke with him last week. He told me he isn't doing superchargers much anymore and didn't really have anything for the V9.



I offer hoses and such for the v9. Cogs as well. Rebuilding them just isn't worth the headaches for me honestly. I don't buy bearings in bulk so I dont make any money on bearings. If I charge a labor rate and then have say a seal leak because the v9's are prone to leak, then I have an unhappy customer who I want to make happy so I pay for a new seal and have to pull apart the entire charger for free. I love the little bit of free time I get to spend with my kids to much to be doing things twice. HA :beer::beer:


----------



## Race Prep (Jan 13, 2006)

vToe said:


> I offer hoses and such for the v9. Cogs as well. Rebuilding them just isn't worth the headaches for me honestly. I don't buy bearings in bulk so I dont make any money on bearings. If I charge a labor rate and then have say a seal leak because the v9's are prone to leak, then I have an unhappy customer who I want to make happy so I pay for a new seal and have to pull apart the entire charger for free. I love the little bit of free time I get to spend with my kids to much to be doing things twice. HA :beer::beer:


:laugh::beer:


----------



## .yuk. (Oct 15, 2004)

That's fair! If this thing leaks again I'm just selling it. I still would like to find another motor bracket though.


----------



## .yuk. (Oct 15, 2004)

So my V9 has the Gruvenparts 2.4 pulley on it. Fresh rebuild from supercharger rebuilds. I am nervous to run this, And I had some slippage so I have a decent amount of tension right now. 

Anyone have any pulleys they wouldn't mind unloading for cheap? Maybe a 7-8 psi pulley? I am running AC/PS but my belt is getting closer to the max tightness, so a little bigger pulley should be fine.


----------



## vampvr (Apr 13, 2010)

hi, does anyone know what lengh or tooth should i use for a cogged kit, its a v9 with 24tooth pulley vr6 24v, thanks


----------



## napkin (Mar 8, 2008)

R36 Supercharged  Made by me.

Cheers


----------



## 4pekatt (Sep 9, 2013)

What's a realistic 0-100km/H (or 0-60mph, if imperial floats your boat) for the 3.2 VR6 with ~400bhp and ~450nm?

EDIT;

Supercharged, that is.


----------



## vampvr (Apr 13, 2010)

finally got my cogged pulleys, hope with this my water pump last longer









Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## x9t (Sep 19, 2005)

Does anyone have a diagram on how to route a supercharger belt for a 12V VR6 using a Vortec V2 supercharger, with AC and PS and one Idler pulley? I been searching for a few days and most of the pictures are no longer up.


----------



## stevevr6 (Dec 13, 2002)

x9t said:


> Does anyone have a diagram on how to route a supercharger belt for a 12V VR6 using a Vortec V2 supercharger, with AC and PS and one Idler pulley? I been searching for a few days and most of the pictures are no longer up.


http://www.tyrolsport.com/files/forumpics1/R32Instructions/R32 US Stage 1&2 Instructions.pdf


----------



## stevevr6 (Dec 13, 2002)

Looking for a belt for an R32 sc setup. Car has PS but no AC.


----------



## stugs (Dec 25, 2009)

Hey Friends - Have a 2000 GTI VR6 12v with a stage 1 VF kit. I had been running a prom I got more than a year after I installed the kit, but it failed recently and I had to go back to the prom that came with it originally. As VF/GIAC no longer support this, and most of the companies in this thread either aren't in biz or no longer offer a SC tune, are there any options for a roughly equivalent level of software? I found UM still has an option, but it is roughly equiv to a stage 3 and I'd need to upgrade some bits for it to be supported.


----------



## Dub_addict (Aug 7, 2005)

Advice needed I just picked up an AMS V1 kit. It comes with the following: with charger, charger bracket, belt, ecu with 
ams chip, oil pan tapped for return, return line, feed line, 
charger pipe with forge DV and two silicone couplers, 
tbolt clamps, intake elbow and 4 inch maf housing, filter, 
red 32lb injectors, gruvenparts pulley and stock pulley. 
The problem is that I bought the kit for a corrado that is obd1 w a dizzy. Im torn between going obd2 or going w dubforcetuning software for obd1 w a dizzy. Can anyone give me some pros and cons of sticking w obd1 vs going obd2. Lastly has anyone used dubforcetuning for thier software needs. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Jumbopvp (May 1, 2010)

*12v vr6 v9 s/c*

Does anyone know where I can get metal pipes (plumbing) for a non intercooled setup? i currently have plastic ones. 

Also a list of parts number needed to rebuild the blower. 

tks


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

*Selling off yummey things.*

Will be doing a Facebook sale of a brand new cogged pulley kit never mounted.
As well as a full AMS V1 kit with al the parts and such things like software and pulleys and things.
For now just looking to gauge interest.


----------



## stroker6pack (Aug 23, 2007)

Scooter98144 said:


> Will be doing a Facebook sale of a brand new cogged pulley kit never mounted.
> As well as a full AMS V1 kit with al the parts and such things like software and pulleys and things.
> For now just looking to gauge interest.


you have a facebook link?


----------



## Scooter98144 (Jul 15, 2002)

When I do I will post it here. 

Found this Facebook group that sells parts.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/377213422681408/


----------



## GoldnSilver (Feb 14, 2015)

Hey guys I'm very new to auto mechanics, but I'm about to charge (either turbo or supercharger) a 12v vr6 AAA engine. I'd very much prefer to supercharge it but I also want to leave the engine stock with 3" exhaust and still get 400hp is that unattainable with that setup?? I've read and it looks like you can only get around 300hp with that setup but could I get a bigger charger like a rotrex c38-94? Or something?? Any help would be greatly appreciated

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## GoldnSilver (Feb 14, 2015)

Correction: C38-92*

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## mk3luva (Oct 7, 2016)

Wth: Ams chip. I bought a v9 kit and the maf is between charger and throttle body. From my understanding due to considered a blow thru system AMS was really the only one who made a blow thru software. Can anyone help me out bout if im on the right track


----------



## vw1320 (Jul 11, 2000)

The AMS software was for their V1 kits which is what every other V1 kit is a knock off of. The VF v9 kits used GIAC software. Not sure if they still offer it for sale. GIAC never had the best customer service in my experience. ATP turbo used to have blow through software for the v1 kits as well - maybe only for obd2? Its been a long time but I have had all of them. The vf kit drove the best by far and made decent power for what it was. Ideally you should just put standalone on the car - software is the biggest hold back to most S/C setups. I have plenty of S/C experience to back that up.


----------



## mk3luva (Oct 7, 2016)

Awesome thanks. But after research I actually did purchase a KPTuning microsquirt standalone with wideband. I will update on progress when I have some. 

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk


----------



## mk3luva (Oct 7, 2016)

Canananada3456 said:


> Found this gem cleaning my garage from my old ams kit. Its missing one spacer though. Pm me an offer if you want....
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


I need this. Anyone have one for sale

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk


----------



## cesa1221 (Mar 2, 2008)

Anyone selling a cog kit for V9 Supercharger?


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

mk3luva said:


> I need this. Any
> 
> one have one for sale
> 
> Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk


I’ve got one handy. Drop me a PM.


----------

