# Help! Pipes broke under the intake manifold, trying to get it running PICS included



## jason bouchard (Aug 25, 2005)

2001 audi tt 225 AMU 
160k miles



I just got the car back after I had the notorious oil cooler gasket failure, Oil was everywhere. I was driving the car and was noticing a new sound, and found a boost/vacuum leak under the intake manifold, it was BIG!!

So I started to check things out and remove things, and I foudn that all of the plastic hard pipes under the manifold were cracked, and that a silver box that the plastic lines run into was also broken( its neck was snapped). So I removed all of these lines and I am now trying to cap off or reroute whatever I can to have the car running safe and without leaks. I really do not want to have to take off the intake manifold. 

I have searched and found all sorts of SAI/ EVAP removal instructions but I am trying to do the minimal work route because I need this up and running ASAP. I also have an appointment with a tuner this week to get Unitronic Stage 2 and then working on some W/M kit soon there after. 

I have included some pics of what was removed and what the gray box is above the Oil cooler( I don't know what the box is but I would like to make sure no power is going to it). 

Thanks guys!!


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## asiwa (Dec 18, 2014)

jason bouchard said:


> 2001 audi tt 225 AMU
> 160k miles
> 
> 
> ...


Uhhhhhh I mean most of those hoses are toast. Unless you fabricate a custom solution you're better off just buying the whole hose assembly from Audi. 

Also fair warning: I'm not sure if you've done any work to the car since taking these pictures, but it looks like you had the same issue I did and the brass portion of the plastic crankcase hose broke off and is lodged in the opening of the crankcase vent (picture #4 is the best view). You need to remove that little green clip (pictures 2 and 3) reach down there with some long needle-nose pliers or some other tool and delicately pull that piece out. It will probably break again and you need to be SUPER careful because if you aren't you'll get old brittle plastic falling into the crankcase, never to be seen again. I had this happen and was lucky enough to be able to fish the piece(s) out, but it's better to just take every precaution and prevent it in the first place.

While you're in there you also should probably replace the suction jet pump and the one-way PCV valve. 034 Motorsport sells a breather hose kit that is really nice (I installed that one), just use an OEM PCV valve instead of the 034 that they include because they supposedly suck due to poor quality control.

I doubt that you're getting that car to a shop any time soon unless you have the parts rush-shipped to you. You can definitely put that stuff back in without taking off the manifold, but take it from someone that did it recently - it's a giant pain in the ass with almost zero visibility and hand room. The manifold gasket is super cheap and the extra accessibility it gives you will make your life easier.

This is a link to a 1.8T DIY on the breather hose, but doesn't address the other vacuum hoses. I know that there's another DIY on that somewhere but I need to find it first.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3747836-DIY-1.8t-Lower-PCV-Hose-install-pics!&

EDIT: The part number for the hard lines is 06A133789. You can find it on ECS right now for about $147, but it looks like Europa Parts has the OE/unstamped version for half that. You do you!


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## jason bouchard (Aug 25, 2005)

Firstly, Thanks for the heads up on the evap canister this seems to be a big pain int he ass. 

So what is the system? the Evap system ? and can I bypass it easily ? 
here is some pics of what I am proposing. 

Hooking up the brake booster vacuum line directly to the manifold ( I know I will probably need to put some type of check valve in line there). 










Capping off the medium sized vacuum line that was at the bottom of the intake manifold. 


taking the crank case opening and the hockey puck unit and connecting them straight together and the bottom of it back into the turbo inlet pipe.


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## asiwa (Dec 18, 2014)

I didn't mention the EVAP canister - it's the PCV system. PCV is for venting crankcase gases so that you don't get sludgy/diluted oil and leaks at the seals.

Those breather hoses (the large diameter rubber ones and the hard metal pipe) are for venting the crankcase. Those hoses attach to that three-way adapter, which goes to the valve cover and pancake/combi valve (in your second picture).

Although I am not an expert on the PCV system, I would strongly advise against deleting things from it. I'm sure you could with some effort but the PCV system is designed to vent the crankcase with the assistance of the vacuum system. You need those hard hoses under the manifold to keep the system working properly, at least the way the flow appears to work. 

The 034 breather hose kit is again a good solution. It simplifies the crankcase vent hose design and gives you all of the rubber hoses you need. The hard plastic lines are available fully assembled for around $76 from the OE supplier (Kayser).

034 Kit:










Hard lines:










Don't try to do a rush job just so that you can get your tune done on time; my advice (as I'm sure most others on here would say) is to spend the time to do the repair the right way so that you don't have more problems down the line.


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## jason bouchard (Aug 25, 2005)

I just bought this and it should be here tomorrow : https://store.ngpracing.com/034-reinforced-silicone-breather-hose-kit-amu-audi-tt-225.html


Just picked up this from Advance: https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproduct...MfJCNZ7NFq_jQd1oaAi8MEALw_wcB&ad=218799379389


Not sure what else I need. what a pain in the butt this crap is.


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## jason bouchard (Aug 25, 2005)

Man! you are on the ball!! I really appreciate your help :beer::beer:


Question, What /where are the part numbers for the hard-lines in the second picture ? 

Thanks

Jay


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## asiwa (Dec 18, 2014)

Pretty close. I'd recommend also buying an OEM PCV valve because the 034 one is known to be short-lived: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/bleeder-valve/035103245a/

And you'll need the hard line assembly, otherwise those 034 silicone hoses won't have anything to attach to. You could also buy a new green retaining clip for the crankcase end of the hose: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/retaining-spring-priced-each/037121142a/

It may not be necessary though. Make sure you remove that clip and the piece of the hose that's still stuck in the crankcase outlet; if the clip comes out in one piece you should be able to reuse it with the new hoses. It's not an expensive part though, so you might as well replace it for peace of mind.


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## asiwa (Dec 18, 2014)

The part number I think was in the first post but it's 06A133789. If you buy from ECS just get the Kayser one - OE supplier for VW/Audi and it's half the price.


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## jason bouchard (Aug 25, 2005)

yes ordered the one set from 034. the whole line pvc/vac lines and the 3 way valve from Advance, and everything should be here by tomorrow. 


I removed the green clip in one and it slipped out with little-to-no resistance. I grabbed the last bit of plastic, and as far as I know, nothing seemed to fall in but I'm not 100% sure and can't get the best look. 

So, along with all new clips/hose clamps, I will be tackling this tomorrow night after work. I briefed my tuner and hes willing to work with me so we'll see what happens.


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## jason bouchard (Aug 25, 2005)

also, where does this piece/one way valve go ? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/bleeder-valve/035103245a/

does it come with any thing I ordered like the hard line kit ?


Edit: I ordered this one for the hell of it, and will be here tomorrow: https://www.amazon.com/URO-Parts-035-103-245A/dp/B00BQS6M1Q

Thanks


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## asiwa (Dec 18, 2014)

jason bouchard said:


> also, where does this piece/one way valve go ? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/bleeder-valve/035103245a/
> 
> does it come with any thing I ordered like the hard line kit ?
> 
> ...


The check valve goes in line with the rubber hoses. If you take the old ones apart you should find it in there. It's clamped in place with two small diameter silicone/rubber lines.

Also, I finally found that DIY for the whole PCV system: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/tt...hose-replacement-amu-engine-bww-long-1946776/

Unfortunately you have to click on each of the pictures to see them, but the post is very thorough. It's the same one I used when I did this job.


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## jason bouchard (Aug 25, 2005)

parts are in!!! approximately $300 later and here they are next day! lol 

I think I am good to go, but here are some pics of he layout:






















I still haven't taken off the intake manifold, (I really don't want to, but will take it out when I got W/M Injection), but if I need to, I was only able to get an O.E gasket, not the cool lexan race one


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## asiwa (Dec 18, 2014)

Looks correct to me, just make sure you compare it to the assembled one in that thread I posted.

Make sure you get the check valve in those hoses as far as you can and get the clamps as tight as possible without overdoing it.

Again, you can do it without taking the manifold off. That's how I did it but it's debatably less work - there's very little spare room, especially with trying to get all those hoses in place properly under the manifold when you can't see anything and it's in your way. The crankcase hose is also a royal pain with all that stuff in there but you can still get it done.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


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## jason bouchard (Aug 25, 2005)

I did it!!! now I am getting the 15 psi in the lower gear but creeps up in the 4-5-6 gears so I haven't/wont beat on it in the high gears till I get it tuned tomorrow. 

I do have a 25 DD DP and a blue flame exhaust too so that probably is the reason for the creep. 

I still hear the turbo as being louder and more spool sound then normal, not sure what is up, I have done so much work and so many checks on leaks etc I am kinda not sure what else to do if anything. I'm not sure if its a normal sound and I just haven't heard it in a while ( had not driven the car in a while) since I got the new Dorman replacement Ko4s turbo installed.

EDIT: According to the boost gauge, in these higher gear when it creeps up, it is all over the place and the needle shakes a lot , around 17psi. I did not push it once I saw that and just brought it home. The car pulls nicely and doesn't feel slow at all

I also have an aftermarket Forge Wastgate that I out on with the new turbo, it has an upgraded spring ( I think 12-14 psi) and I have a bag of springs I could switch it around with. 


I am hoping the tune tomorrow fixes all of this but we will see.


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## jason bouchard (Aug 25, 2005)

I logged the car with vagcom. Its weird around 4-5k the boost gauge is all over the place from 10-16psi then settles tight at 15 before tapering off at 10 at redline.
I am still hearing some noises that might be leaks and then on my way home the DV ( I have a loud MAX Mitsubishi Evo modded DV) was getting very loud, but I did a nice hard run to test things out. I also have the cold side DV relocation so that makes things a bit louder. 


Here are some logs on google drive.


https://drive.google.com/open?id=16nUBeTcIocLkxfbJBKIu0W5CzF8625Yb8Q66TR_yetY

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_0reH7vXW6fV-qV9nYNkZwIV34p2M5gPjPaYcUCwo8Q

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1LVYVLYfAOcYGs_qUpSfwKE700ebGkneZG8_ErIktWOE

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4LF_AYxY5M7WVlKZ3ItOVUzTTVwYlQxY0tXTUdMRklVa0tr

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1iJrqIJ2hQ0cb4MGBmNAHlyfAfL0nHv3Ixkqdmy7DEus

Thread in the Vagcom section : http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...azy-VAGCOM-LOG-SCAN&p=111068297#post111068297


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## jason bouchard (Aug 25, 2005)

tune went well( Unitronic Stage 2) , smoothed things out, but I am only running around 15 and I should be running about 20-22. 
I think I need to bring in the threads on the wastgate some as it was never properly adjusted and I think the wastgate is not fully closing or opening too soon, which could also be the noise of the turbo/boost leaking that I have been hearing. I do have the red spring in the wastegate right now though which I think is the 14psi spring.


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## jason bouchard (Aug 25, 2005)

great, I took it for a test run and all of the sudden a loud weird noise and Zero boost. . . Here is a video 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3FSp-voN3hA&feature=youtu.be


Please help, I am checking everything for any loose connections with No luck so far :-(


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## Kylar (Feb 21, 2018)

Sounds like you popped off an intercooler pipe/coupler. Check the one that goes over the engine. Or possibly a larger vacuum hose/BPV hose.


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## jason bouchard (Aug 25, 2005)

Trying everything and still the issue remains. :-(


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## jason bouchard (Aug 25, 2005)

I checked the wastgate and the line and it moves as its supposed to. I checked and removed and reinstalled all of the hoses that I could get to. 

The TIP (turbo inlet pipe) seems to be on, but may have a leak, would this cause the issue of ZERO boost?


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