# 2.5 VW Jetta stalls after warm up



## gpetrarca (Dec 14, 2017)

Hello y’all. I have a 2006 Jetta 2.5 that has been giving me issues. Recently, the car would run fine up until it got up to temperature, and would stumble or stall. If I was going down the highway when this happened, all power would be lost and the tachometer would go to 0 for a second and then the car would recover and the epc light would come on (loss of power and unable to go above 3k rpm) If I was at a stop, the car would stall and would crank over for a while until it catches and the epc light comes on. If I shut the car off for a little and turned it back on, the car would run fine and the epc light would go out. I hooked it up to an obd2 reader and got the following codes:
P0171: system too lean (bank 1)
P0322: ignition/distributor engine speed input circuit no signal
The car has 112k miles and the timing chain was changed at 100k. I have also replaced the camshaft position sensor. What could be causing this? I suspect either a vacuum leak, bad or clogged MAF, or a crankshaft position sensor.


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## Ronny Bensys (Apr 17, 2014)

P0322 is an indication of bad crankshaft position sensor or its wiring.


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## Ronny Bensys (Apr 17, 2014)

Also check your ECU connector for water contamination, corrosion and tightness. Check CPS connector too.


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## gpetrarca (Dec 14, 2017)

I will check all of this tomorrow. Then I’ll give an update. However, today the check engine light went out, but the epc light still came on


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## Ronny Bensys (Apr 17, 2014)

gpetrarca said:


> I will check all of this tomorrow. Then I’ll give an update. However, today the check engine light went out, but the epc light still came on


Check ECU connector. Remove, clean and reinstall. If it is located under the windshield trim, I suspect the ECU got contaminated with water.


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## gpetrarca (Dec 14, 2017)

Okay so I checked the ecu today. Everything seemed to be okay and the connections were tight. I cleaned the MAF sensor while I was at it. The epc light only comes on when the car sit for long enough to be completely cool, so I’ll see if it comes on tomorrow.


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## Ronny Bensys (Apr 17, 2014)

Did you check CPS connector too? Do you have a multimeter and access to the bottom? Remove connectors from both sides and do a continuity test with a multimeter while checking the display for resistance. Resistance should be around 1 Ohm.


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## gpetrarca (Dec 14, 2017)

I do not have access to a multimeter. However I’m going home on Saturday, and I will check it then. If the CPS was bad wouldn’t it be unable to start or have the epc light on all the time?


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## Ronny Bensys (Apr 17, 2014)

"No start" condition is not the only symptom. What I understand from your dscription of the issue is the CPS's malfunctioning when the car gets warm.


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## gpetrarca (Dec 14, 2017)

I tested the CPS, it was an open circuit so I went out and bought a replacement. The CEL went out as soon as I started it up. I think it is fixed. Thanks for the help! It was also odd because I could start the car with the sensor unplugged, but the epc light came on.


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## Ronny Bensys (Apr 17, 2014)

gpetrarca said:


> I tested the CPS, it was an open circuit so I went out and bought a replacement. The CEL went out as soon as I started it up. I think it is fixed. Thanks for the help! It was also odd because I could start the car with the sensor unplugged, but the epc light came on.


That usually happens when the car is already in limp mode and the ECU uses other sensors to estimate crankshaft position. Anyway, glad you sorted it out. Bye.


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