# 01M to 02J transmission swap on my 2001 Jetta 2.0 (AZG) silver



## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

*01M to 02J transmission swap on my 2001 Jetta 2.0 (AZG) silver (DIY on Page 4)*

*WRITE UP AND PICS ARE ON PAGE 4*

Well...I'm tired of this 01M business so I 've decided to do the swap. One because it's sensible and two because it will be fun.

The Jetta first went into limp mode a few months ago and since then I've followed some threads with suggestions and consulted some transmission specialists and valvebody shops. I first replaced solenoid #5 (bought from NAPA) which first popped up the code 00266. That briefly worked and then back to square one.

Then I went with the valvebody swap (new solenoids and wire harness shipped from Central Valvebodies in Oklahoma). Worked great for a week. Though it was promising and it soon went back to limp mode again. Replaced same solenoid with original VW one. Worked great for another week and then once again the dreaded limp mode.

And of course I check the ATF level the proper way with VAG-COM and all and replaced that extremely expensive fluid twice.

So this is where I stand now with my wife's ride. I'd love to swap it since I know the motor will last a whole lot longer and the stick is just so much funner. I was able to sell my wife on the idea since I taught her how to drive the stick in my 98 Explorer Sport.

Everyone's ones doing TDI swaps. So thought I'd crash the party and bring the 2.0 to the game.

So sit back and enjoy the ride. More post with intial pics and wiring diagrams to come. Just don't have time right now since I'm about the leave work and go home to the family.

One question. *Anybody have any thoughts on which tranny code would be best with the 2.0? Im thinking EGT or FBV. What do you intelligent people think?*

*WRITE UP AND PICS ARE ON PAGE 4*


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

Why two threads? Seems like the same question in both.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

CoolAirVw said:


> Why two threads? Seems like the same question in both.


I totally forgot I asked already:screwy:. Wow. 

I felt like starting fresh with a new thread and title  since I'm going to document the whole project


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## ihavenoideax2 (Apr 12, 2008)

I am actually in the process of doing a swap on my 01 Jetta 1.8T.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

ihavenoideax2 said:


> I am actually in the process of doing a swap on my 01 Jetta 1.8T.


Dont listen to him, He has no idea!


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

Yall is pretty funny on this site:laugh:. Im thinking about getting the tranny from a 2004 Jetta 2.0 EGT. Think there'll be any fit issues? My guess is that it would work just fine or does the year matter as long as it is it's an a 99-05?


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## ihavenoideax2 (Apr 12, 2008)

Im not completely sure. I know I was told that the trans I was getting was going to match up just right. As long as the trans is from a 2L - 1.8T, you should be ok. If it was a VR6 trans, it won't match up.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

ihavenoideax2 said:


> Im not completely sure. I know I was told that the trans I was getting was going to match up just right. As long as the trans is from a 2L - 1.8T, you should be ok. If it was a VR6 trans, it won't match up.


Thanks for the idea even though you say you have no idea. Im going to stick finding a tranny from a 2.0 just to be sure.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

I was just looking through the Bentley in the coding section and saw that it not possible to recode the ECM to recognize my car as a manual because it is an AZG engine. 

I thought I'd be able to just recode it, but maybe not. *Is this true? 

Is there a way around this or will I have get another ECM?*


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## ihavenoideax2 (Apr 12, 2008)

nosborn94 said:


> I was just looking through the Bentley in the coding section and saw that it not possible to recode the ECM to recognize my car as a manual because it is an AZG engine.


Could you check if the AWW engine code it is possible?


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

It shows the codes without any warning like mine. So I believe the AWW will be fine.

It's a 1.8 turbo right? what year? The year doesn't matter. I was just curious

Holla at me if you need a code. It has the code table. By the way if you dont have the Bentley you can get it from the library sometimes. That's where I got the one Im using


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

nosborn94 said:


> I was just looking through the Bentley in the coding section and saw that it not possible to recode the ECM to recognize my car as a manual because it is an AZG engine.
> 
> I thought I'd be able to just recode it, but maybe not. *Is this true?
> 
> Is there a way around this or will I have get another ECM?*


I keep hearing this, so you'll probably have to change ECM. But that is the last step. You can get the car running and driving with your original ECM. You'll just need to change the ECM later. The only reason you'll need to do this is to get the check engine light out.


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## ihavenoideax2 (Apr 12, 2008)

nosborn94 said:


> It shows the codes without any warning like mine. So I believe the AWW will be fine.
> 
> It's a 1.8 turbo right? what year? The year doesn't matter. I was just curious
> 
> Holla at me if you need a code. It has the code table. By the way if you dont have the Bentley you can get it from the library sometimes. That's where I got the one Im using


Mine is also a 2001. I have the Bentley but I don't really know what I am looking for.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

*The 1st attempt*

This didn't fix it but I thought I'd put up the pictures from when I inspected and replaced the valve body just for reference in case anybody needs some pics. I purchased the valvebody from Central Valvebodies in Oklahoma. I tried the Kerma Mod too. Didn't help. Not saying this won't work for you but I believe my issue was more internal than external. It did work for some time for this guy (Check out link): http://oldforums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=198950



A look at the valvebody









The manual shift lever









Backside


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

This is my intial look at the car so far

A view of the engine bay









The relay panel under the driver's dash. 175 is the Park Nuetral Relay









175 Relay removed. With Blue connecter exposed









Connector unclipped from relay grid and slowly turn to reveal wires on backside. Wires are refered to on my homemade wire diagram



























twisted around









The backside of the connecter on relay panel









moe to come. I have To go now


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

Now I took a look in the engine bay after removing the air cleaner box to get more access.










Here's the location of the Transmission Range Switch on the back side of the AT


















6-pin TR switch connecter


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

The wires going into the connecter from the TCM, battery, Park Nuetral Relay.



















Now let's take a look at the TCM and ECM connecters and wiring. And see what we're working with.

Air plenum removed









TCM left, ECM with 2 connecters right









TCM connecter removed, Left ECM connecter removed









TCM connecter

























ECM Pins









Wires stemming from Left ECM connecter. The wiring is much different than TDI's that usually are the ones we hear about in the swapped so my rewiring is going to be a bit different
(Top Side)








(Bottom Side)


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

*Inspect TCM*

I decided why not open up the TCM just to see if there was by chance a burnt circuit or something.

TCM out of plenum

























Everything looked fine. I've have a good TCM for sale when I'm done with the swap among other parts


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

*The wiring for my 2001 Jetta 2.0 (AZG)*

I did a continuity check of the wiring and this is what mine turned out to be compared to GdB or alphaseinor










This is my complete rewire based the GdB's rewire and the Bentley schematic


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

This is the Bentley wiring for the 2001-2002 AVH and AZG Jetta/Golf 2.0 which is what my car has

This is the wiring for the starter and starter switch where the 175 relay (J226) will replaced by a 53 relay (J207)









This shows where the clutch vacuum vent valve will be wire to at pin #39 on the ECM instead of pin #46 or #66 like GdB points out for his DIY. Not wrong just different years and makes









I included these because they have diagrams showing the difference between an Auto and a Manual. I may end up removing all unnecessary wiring so I'm using this for reference. The key shows what is manual only or auto only


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

NIce post.


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## -Six- (May 14, 2010)

My 01M transmission has been slipping for over a year and a half now, so I am looking at same kind of swap for my 00 Golf. I'll be keeping an eye on this thread for some electrical how-to's, pretty confident I could handle the mechanical side relatively easily. Thanks for the post!


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

-Six- said:


> I'll be keeping an eye on this thread for some electrical how-to's, pretty confident I could handle the mechanical side relatively easily


 The wiring will be different in the 2000 model. Let me know if you need help finding the diagram for your car. It will be different in your compared to my 2001 Jetta. 

*Is yours a TDI 1.9 or a 2.0?*


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## -Six- (May 14, 2010)

I have a 1.8T, and I do have the Bentley manual for it, but actually seeing what is needed helps make it easier to figure out.


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## ihavenoideax2 (Apr 12, 2008)

So far this is looking the most detailed swap thread. I had yet to find one that isn't Diesel.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

Everyone here seems to own and love diesel so I decided to change things up a little. The wiring will be a different but simpler I believe. 

I'm pretty much ready to go with the process. There's some more stuff I need to post but my wife and I are budgeting out money for the swap before I go and tear up the salvage yards two miles from the border. 

So more to come in the next couple weeks. I'll have some video too


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

The goal this weekend is to buy the majority of the parts at the salvage yard. I'm believing I'll find an exact match. For example a 2001 Jetta 2.0 manual with an AZG engine code and low mileage and low price. Then I could take the ECM from the car too. That would be awesome. I think the ECM from a AVH coded engine would work well too. I noticed on Ebay that there are a lot of the manual AVH ECM's available but haven't located a AZG manual ECM anywhere yet. At least on the internet. 

I'm not looking to get swindled here. I want fair prices. I think I'll bring cash so I can bargain. If I don't find what I want, then there's guy on Ebay who offered everything I need for 800 and free shipping. 

*Any thoughts on my plan? Also I was planning on getting the bolts at the dealer but do you think I could use the bolts off the loaner vehicle? I know some threads mention having to buy new bolts. What do you guys think?* 

_Also I posted a couple more wiring diagrams in the previous post with the Bentley wiring diagrams_


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

Mount bolts are stretch bolts and must be replaced. I've never seen a trans mount bolt that was reused break, but when the engine mount bolts are reused they break. 

FYI broken engine mount bolts allow the engine to "fall". sometimes this results in a broken engine block in varying degrees of failure. Trans could end up dragging the ground, or axle destroyed, or just getting lucky. 

My opinion new bolts are cheap insurance. 

Read your bentley manual regarding mount bolts. 

Guy in CA has been consulting with me regarding the swap and he's pretty much bought everything for 1200. He has a tdi of course so he wont need ECM. Gas model trans should be cheaper than Tdi because its more available.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

*The gathering*

I made the trip to the salvage yard and it was quite interesting too. They will try to swindle you if you're passive. They were trying to give me all kinds of rusty and broken stuff. I'm missing a the starter and axles in the pics. I'll have more up tomorrow wiht details.

The tranny is an EGT off a 02 Golf 2.0 by the way.










I had just got done cleaning off the part.

Also if you notice part of an axle is still attached to the tranny. *Any ides on how to get that off. Will I have to wait until the tranny is on and then take it off? Any ideas?*


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

nosborn94 said:


> Also if you notice part of an axle is still attached to the tranny. *Any ides on how to get that off. Will I have to wait until the tranny is on and then take it off? Any ideas?*



Take out the bolts? They are triple spline, also know as xzn bits. You can buy a cheap set at your freindly local auto parts store.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

CoolAirVw said:


> Take out the bolts? They are triple spline, also know as xzn bits. You can buy a cheap set at your freindly local auto parts store.


*I know I need the triple square sockets. I was asking more about how to twist off the bolts since the drive axle will turn when I take them off.*


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

nosborn94 said:


> *I know I need the triple square sockets. I was asking more about how to twist off the bolts since the drive axle will turn when I take them off.*


Oh, why didn't you say so. Take your impact gun and zip them out! Impact has hard rotational hammering action so it will twist out the bolt and not twist the axle stub.

But assuming you dont have impact.... then you have to get creative and block the axle or wedge a screwdriver between two of the bolts as you break one loose.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

I guess I'll have to get creative then. I may just wait until I mount the tranny to the engine and block the crankshaft or mabye put one axle on and have my wife push down the brakes to hold it in place.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

CoolAirVw said:


> Mount bolts are stretch bolts and must be replaced. I've never seen a trans mount bolt that was reused break, but when the engine mount bolts are reused they break.
> 
> FYI broken engine mount bolts allow the engine to "fall". sometimes this results in a broken engine block in varying degrees of failure. Trans could end up dragging the ground, or axle destroyed, or just getting lucky.
> 
> ...


The Bentley only speaks about replacing the mounting bolts. And so do other threads. What about reusing the engine-to-transmission mating bolts? *Can the auto trans mating bolts be used for the manual transmission to engine mating? Also I have the starter mounting bolts from the donor vehicle; can I reuse those?*


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## Tin_Man (Jul 30, 2008)

can't imagine doing this project without impact gun / air ratchet / etc.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

nosborn94 said:


> The Bentley only speaks about replacing the mounting bolts. And so do other threads. What about reusing the engine-to-transmission mating bolts? *Can the auto trans mating bolts be used for the manual transmission to engine mating? Also I have the starter mounting bolts from the donor vehicle; can I reuse those?*


Engine to trans bolts are reusuable. They are not stretch bolts. Also they interchange manual to auto. 

Starter bolts can be reused as well, I think. I know I reuse them on Tdi changeover.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

*Finally I can start*

Thanks for the last info CoolAirVW.

Sorry I haven't been updating the thread. I just didn't want it to get clouded with posts. I have purchased all equipment, tools, and parts. I will post detailed list with part numbers, prices and suggestions after I finish the project.

I started the project today by stripping the car of body panels and the bumper and the wheels and loosened the axle nuts, which were a pain to get off. I thought I was going break the breaker bar as I pushed but eventually it came off.

Tonight. I'm prepping the tranny with moly grease on specific points and attaching the new lever I purchased with bearing. I will have more details and pictures and video after I finish. I want to get it done quick and not be posting while trying to get it done.

I start bright and early tomorrow to make sure I have enough light since I'm doing this in the back of my apartment complex and also to have time if needed to go the parts store or the dealership. Bet yall think that is crazy.:screwy: My work station other the car is my Ford Explorer which has all the parts and tools.

*One last question. Anybody have an idea on how to lock the flywheel so I can torque the nuts on since I don't have a specially designed lock?*


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## MSFerrariF1 (Nov 14, 2008)

nosborn94 said:


> I made the trip to the salvage yard and it was quite interesting too. They will try to swindle you if you're passive. They were trying to give me all kinds of rusty and broken stuff. I'm missing a the starter and axles in the pics. I'll have more up tomorrow wiht details.
> 
> The tranny is an EGT off a 02 Golf 2.0 by the way.
> 
> ...


While you're at it...I suggest you replace the clutch slave-master hydraulic line, the clutch slave and master cylinder as well. Since they are used, you'll never know if they are leaking once you have installed everything and you start bleeding the clutch. If they leak, that will set you back a few hours on your install. If that is a manual ECU there in the picture, don't forget that you will need a VAGCOM to adapt that manual ECU to your immobilizer, that is if you have one. Otherwise, your car will not start. You can always delay the ECU swap if ever.


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## MSFerrariF1 (Nov 14, 2008)

don't forget that you will have to modify or re-route your coolant lines since there will be no transmission cooler.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

MSFerrariF1 said:


> While you're at it...I suggest you replace the clutch slave-master hydraulic line, the clutch slave and master cylinder as well. Since they are used, you'll never know if they are leaking once you have installed everything and you start bleeding the clutch. If they leak, that will set you back a few hours on your install. If that is a manual ECU there in the picture, don't forget that you will need a VAGCOM to adapt that manual ECU to your immobilizer, that is if you have one. Otherwise, your car will not start. You can always delay the ECU swap if ever.


It is a manual ECM. *What is the immobilizer that your speaking of?* 



MSFerrariF1 said:


> don't forget that you will have to modify or re-route your coolant lines since there will be no transmission cooler.


I have already swaped everything just haven't posted pics and everything yet, plus I have a few to kinks to work out. The hydraulic line did leak but I replaced the stock o-ring at the master cylinder with a new one and that stopped it. I coupled the coolant lines feeding into the cooler as well.


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## MSFerrariF1 (Nov 14, 2008)

nosborn94 said:


> I was just looking through the Bentley in the coding section and saw that it not possible to recode the ECM to recognize my car as a manual because it is an AZG engine.
> 
> I thought I'd be able to just recode it, but maybe not. *Is this true?
> 
> Is there a way around this or will I have get another ECM?*


Answer to your 1st....unfortunately yes...it is the case to with my vr6. Though TDI guys are able to recode their ECU...

2nd question...you will probably have to swap it our for a manual version ECU (as previously mentioned by CoolairVW). I will do this later in the future since I did my swap months ago but have not forgotten around to doing the swap as it has no effect on driveability. Your CEL will go on but when you scan it, all error codes you will see are all TCM error codes since there will no auto tranny attached. These TCM error codes have not caused any errors on the engine controller (ECU) side of things...


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## MSFerrariF1 (Nov 14, 2008)

nosborn94 said:


> It is a manual ECM. *What is the immobilizer that your speaking of?*


All you need to know about the immobilizer in detail...suggest you read it thoroughly...

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/immobilizer.html

If you change instrument clusters, ecu or a newly cut key, you will have to adapt it to the immobilizer. If I recall correctly, 99.5 year - early 2000 or something mk4's don't have immobilizers so they don't need to do immobilizer adaptation...


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

Haven't finished working out the kinks yet. Car is still sitting in the drive way. I haven't had time to get to it. Been a busy month. But I thought I'd post the pics some may have been waiting for. Many small parts were purchased new but the all the major ones like tranny, starter, shifter, slave, clutch pedal came from junkyard (2002 Golf, impounded) 

Here the inventory list: 


Transmission Jack adapter Toolprice.com ~$40 (minus $10 for bad service) 









Sachs Clutch Set #K70106-02 
Pressure Plate, Clutch Disc, Throwout bearing 
There's also the old flywheel from the donor vehicle 









Fluids, Greases, tools, clips, couplers, etc. 









Moly Grease, CV Joint Grease, Lithium Grease (shifter parts), Threadlocker 









Motor Oil and filter, Synthetic Tranny Fluid SAE 75W-90, DOT 4 Brake Fluid (Clutch), 









Thermal Sleeve (shifter cables, Off Road Warehouse or go to offwarehouse.com), Coolant hose couplers (2 sizes b/c I didn't know what size it was), hose clips, Wire ties, 22 gauge wire butt connecters 









12 pt 30mm Socket (Axle Nuts), Allen socket set (needed 17mm for drain/fill plug), triple square wrench set (Pepboys, saw it at Autozone too) 










Original Car Parts from 2002 Golf 2.0 (AZG) at junkyard 
$700+50(I tipped the guy pulling the parts) for whatever I needed 

Manual Axles 









Clutch Fluid Hydraulic Line, Manual Power Steering Line 









Clutch Pedal with master cylinder, and white and blue switches 









ECM (needed because the AZG and AVH engines from 2001-2002 can not be reprogramed like previous models to recognize manual) 









Manual Starter (different from automatic) 









Shifter with thermal sleeves wrapped around cables 









02J Tranny code EGT with slave cylinder attached 









Random original parts including: axle plate locks, pressure plate bolts (those are old, get new ones), 53 Relay (commonly found on many Jettas), Back-up light swtich connecter, shifter bracket and nuts for clutch pedal assembly 









New Flywheel bolts (N90665001), small cover plate (038103648H) and nut (N01020812) 









Transmission Mounting Bolts (Can be reused, I bought these just in case): 
-Top Bolts 1 M12x55 (N10337803), 1 M12x55/M8x10 (N90701604double bolt for starter ground strap) 
-Bottom: Engine Side 1 M12x55 (N10337803), Tranny Side 3 M10x50 (N91031702) 









Shifter Clips (N90815903 replace old ones), Over-center spring mount on clutch pedal (1J1721423 mine was broke), clutch pedal firewall gasket, clutch fork retaining spring (012141741), ball pivot pin (02A141777B), Clutch Release Fork (02J141719C) 









Mounting Bolts: Top Tranny Mount Bolts 2 (N10209605), 3 Side Mounting Bolts (N10406202), Dog Bone Mount Bolts 2 M8x45 (N10268304), 1 M10x70 (N90597005), 1 M10x30 (N10246610) 









2 Axle Nuts (N90587602), 12 CV Joint Bolts (N91108201), Exhaust Flange gasket (1J0253115L replaced since pipe is moved to acccess shifter box) 









Power Steering Fluid (G004000M2 replenished since power steering line is replaced with manual design)


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## southwesterly (Jul 26, 2009)

*sach*

Hey,

So i started this project about 3 weeks ago and have spent an unknown amount of time and money on bleeding the clutch because when the car is off it goes into gear but when the car is on it does not or grinds. approximately 10L of brake fluid and 5 times the transmission was removed, I just got the car working properly (2.0L Golf 2001 with 2000 transmission from jetta) AFTER replacing with the original clutch plates and pressure plate. I took the old and new pressure plate to a transmission shop who have confirmed that the Sachs Clutch Set #K70106-02 (pressure plate specifically) is different than the Luc one which was found in my car. After changing the clutch hardware the car works properly. Sorry to spread the bad news. It might be that the parts were put in the wrong box or its the wrong set all together. unfortunately my assistant threw out a lot of things unless I locked them away...

In short, if you use that clutch and cant get the thing into gear with the car on then with my latest experience, change the clutch hardware back to the old stuff.

NOTE: there are also 5 2.0L engines and only 3 of them share the same flywheel. Will post the similar engines when i get my list back from my assistants car tonight


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

southwesterly said:


> Hey,
> 
> So i started this project about 3 weeks ago and have spent an unknown amount of time and money on bleeding the clutch because when the car is off it goes into gear but when the car is on it does not or grinds. approximately 10L of brake fluid and 5 times the transmission was removed, I just got the car working properly (2.0L Golf 2001 with 2000 transmission from jetta) AFTER replacing with the original clutch plates and pressure plate. I took the old and new pressure plate to a transmission shop who have confirmed that the Sachs Clutch Set #K70106-02 (pressure plate specifically) is different than the Luc one which was found in my car. After changing the clutch hardware the car works properly. Sorry to spread the bad news. It might be that the parts were put in the wrong box or its the wrong set all together. unfortunately my assistant threw out a lot of things unless I locked them away...
> 
> ...


I appreciate the advice. My car is experiencing the same thing.:laugh::thumbup::thumbup: I hadn't had the time to get to it. But its been sitting my driveway for a month now. I was going to drop everything and look around, but I'm almost certain its the pressure plate now. I had suspected the pressure plate before. Even when I put the Sachs pressure plate on it didn't fit perfectly.

Let me know about that list of similar engines. The flywheel is from a '02 Golf (AZG) and my car is an '01 Jetta (AZG). *Also can the Sachs clutch disc be used with the a LUK pressure plate or do I need top get a new set? Do you think I should get a new flywheel to match with the Luk set or will the old do just fine(it's in good shape)?*


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## southwesterly (Jul 26, 2009)

I believe the flywheels have the same part number from an AEG, AZG and AVH (which is what I have). I took my flywheel off of a 2000 AEG engine. That means you are ok. Funny enough, I took the flywheel off of two different cars and both have the same part numbers and VW couldnt even tell me that they made the part let alone tell me that it was a flywheel.

The car still works well except im experiencing some vibration in the clutch pedal. Currently I dont know what to do with my new clutch since its not looking like my supplier will give a refund. *If anyone out there has used this Sach kit on a non swapped car and it does not work for them then please let me know.*

I am also no mechanic so without trial and error I dont know if the old pressure plate will work with the new clutch. I would assume so since the old pressure plate is definitely different than the new one and there seems to be no difference in that clutch plate.

Also, dont force the pressure plate onto the pins. they dont line up unless oriented correctly. The pins will only be off by a millimeter or so unless it is oriented properly in which the sach clutch does also.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

southwesterly said:


> In short, if you use that clutch and cant get the thing into gear with the car on then with my latest experience, change the clutch hardware back to the old stuff.




*When you say, "change the clutch hardware back to the old stuff", are you saying I should buy a new LUK clutch set cause I never took the original set from the donor car? I didn't think I needed it. All I have is the new Sachs Clutch Kit which is in the car now.*


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## southwesterly (Jul 26, 2009)

I am saying that I wasted a lot of time thinking and being told that the system needed to be be bled more and after replacing the master cylinder and being professionally bled, it turned out that the sachs clutch kit setup was to blame in my case (did not fully disengage) and the luk clutch out of the donor car did work for me (fully disengages). I have not mixed and matched at this time. 

My transmission shop laid the pressure plates side by side and confirmed that they are different in that the sachs one is lower than the luk original. It may be their attempt to provide lower clutch pedal engagement because the luk one fully engages right near the top of the clutch pedal throw. performance stuff eh...

I hope that is more clear

http://store.impartsol.com/sacclutwarin.html

If you have time on monday (tmr), can you try and contact one of sachs reps and ask what the flywheel may or may not need to be machined to under the condition that they expect the flywheel to be resurfaced to disengage correctly?


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## -Six- (May 14, 2010)

nosborn94 said:


> The wiring will be different in the 2000 model. Let me know if you need help finding the diagram for your car. It will be different in your compared to my 2001 Jetta.
> 
> *Is yours a TDI 1.9 or a 2.0?*


My biggest concerns right now are whether or not I need to source a manual transmission ECU and whether or not my crankshaft is going to be an issue when doing the swap. I will be actually dropping the transmission this weekend and pulling the shifter box, so we'll see what problems I run into then (if any). Thanks for the help nosborn.


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## MSFerrariF1 (Nov 14, 2008)

guys, just a heads-up on choosing your ECU....I also did a swap a few months ago but have not gotten to swapping to a manual ECU. On a 12v vr6 mk4, there are ECU's that were made for throttle-cabled cars, (99-2000) and ones for drive-by-wire (2001 - up). Not sure about the 2.0's but you want to make sure that the ECU you will get would be pretty the same year model as your car. You don't want to have an ECU that came from a cable-throttled car, only to find out that your engine is drive by wire. In short, if you have an 01 year model, make sure the ECU you get is preferably from the year model as your car, to be on the safe side. Good luck! Oh....things will be so much easier and faster doing the swap on a lifter with impact tools....


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

-Six- said:


> My biggest concerns right now are whether or not I need to source a manual transmission ECU and whether or not my crankshaft is going to be an issue when doing the swap. I will be actually dropping the transmission this weekend and pulling the shifter box, so we'll see what problems I run into then (if any). Thanks for the help nosborn.


The only MK4 VW that needs an ECU swap is AZG and AVH coded engines for the 2.0L from 2001-2002. You should be able to recode yours.



MSFerrariF1 said:


> guys, just a heads-up on choosing your ECU....I also did a swap a few months ago but have not gotten to swapping to a manual ECU. On a 12v vr6 mk4, there are ECU's that were made for throttle-cabled cars, (99-2000) and ones for drive-by-wire (2001 - up). Not sure about the 2.0's but you want to make sure that the ECU you will get would be pretty the same year model as your car. You don't want to have an ECU that came from a cable-throttled car, only to find out that your engine is drive by wire. In short, if you have an 01 year model, make sure the ECU you get is preferably from the year model as your car, to be on the safe side. Good luck! Oh....things will be so much easier and faster doing the swap on a lifter with impact tools....


I'm not sure whether the 2.0's have different throttles. My 2001 Jetta 2.0 has drive-by-wire.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

Now that I think about it. When I went to the junkyard, I do remember seeing 2.0's of different years with cable-throttle and drive-by-wire throttles.


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## MSFerrariF1 (Nov 14, 2008)

pretty sure '99 2.0's were cable just like the vr6....


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## southwesterly (Jul 26, 2009)

would anyone happen to know if an AVH engine requires an AVH ECU or will an AEG ECU work? Also, if i have power options, is that an issue as well? I have no research on the subject yet and as a result wouldnt know what a drive by wire is.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

MSFerrariF1 said:


> pretty sure '99 2.0's were cable just like the vr6....


I found that engines with the code AVH, AZG, and BGD have the drive-by-wire when browsing through ECSTuning.com


Bottom of page
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV--2.0/Engine/Intake/3


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

*Sachs Clutch Issue*

So I spoke with someone on the tech hotline about the clutch. They told me that the clutch kit K70106-02 should work with the original flywheel. He suggested checking the clutch hydraulics. He said to somehow compress the slave cylinder and keep it from moving and then to push the pedal down. I stopped the salve by put a screw driver down the threaded hole where the clutch cable bracket screws into. The pedal went about 80% to the floor and then became hard. *Does this sound right or should the pedal stop further up?*


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

Im also thinking about getting the Luk clutch set #17-046. Not sure what I'd do with the Sachs one. Maybe sell it. 

*Any thoughts on my next move should be? Also any thoughts on the previous post about the clutch pedal going down pretty far before it became hard.* This might be because the pressure plate is the problem. So not sure exactly.

*When do other peoples clutch pedal start to feel like they're disengaging the clutch?*


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## HCSkorpio (Feb 14, 2008)

nosborn94 said:


> I found that engines with the code AVH, AZG, and BGD have the drive-by-wire when browsing through ECSTuning.com
> 
> 
> Bottom of page
> http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV--2.0/Engine/Intake/3


I believe MK4s made from August 2000 were Drive By Wire.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

Im also thinking about getting the Luk clutch set #17-046. Not sure what I'd do with the old one. Maybe sell it. 

*Any thoughts on my next move should be? Also any thoughts on the previous post about the clutch pedal going down pretty far before it became hard. *This might be because the pressure plate is the problem. So not sure exactly.

*When do other peoples clutch pedal start to feel like they're disengaging the clutch?*


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## HCSkorpio (Feb 14, 2008)

nosborn94 said:


> Im also thinking about getting the Luk clutch set #17-046. Not sure what I'd do with the old one. Maybe sell it.
> 
> *Any thoughts on my next move should be? Also any thoughts on the previous post about the clutch pedal going down pretty far before it became hard. *This might be because the pressure plate is the problem. So not sure exactly.
> 
> *When do other peoples clutch pedal start to feel like they're disengaging the clutch?*


I'm assuming you installed the old flywheel with the sachs clutch and pressure plate? 

It looks like the flywheel is pretty burnt in the picture, were there any cracks, did you get it resurfaced? What about getting a new flywheel?


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

The flywheel looked fine. No I didn't get it resurfaced. It was smooth when I got it. It didn't have any cracks either. I've thought about getting a new flywheel. Just want to be sure before I spend money on it.

I been emailing back and forth with a Sachs Tech advisor. Here's some quotes from the emails:

8/24/10
"Nick because of the number of questions I feel if you could call in to your tech line it would be helpful. I cannot send you a clutch for we only show the one clutch and we show it being used with a flat flywheel. Of course I want to help you get this problem solved. Again Volkswagen and Sachs have been hand in hand for years. I am currently in Chicago going thru training. However please call into our Tech line 1-800-321-0784 and speak with Dave Denison. The first thing that comes to my mind on this would be a compatibility issue with the flywheel. Luk is notorious for making flywheels and Pressure plates that work only in unison."

8/27/10
"In my catalog I show NFW7201 (Sachs flywheel part number) called out for both applications. I cannot draw a conclusion on why the Luk worked in the previous situations on line. but I have to assume It might be a compatibility issue however there are two possibilities: 

1. When a new clutch is installed it is important that the hydraulics have to be in their best working order a new Disc means the Diaghpram fingers are now much farther recessed then when a thin (old) disc is in the system. So my first advise is make sure your master and slave cylinder is up to par. 

2. If that is the case than the only other bridge to cross is either get the luk to try or purchase a Sachs flywheel and try that. One other consideration would be if your flywheel has been machined a lot or multiple times that also can lead to a no release condition. I have to assume the disc was installed facing the correct direction when you tried our clutch. You also might want to perform the following test. Take you old pressure plate and bolt it down with the new disc under it. Take a straight edge and measure the finger height. Now take the new cover bolt it with the same disc and measure the finger height. the finger height from cover to cover should measure within one MM of each other. If they do not the result could be our cover is mfg incorrectly or the Luk cover is set up to work only with that flywheel. 

However out of all the above something should pop out and point us in a reason for what is going wrong."

9/4/10
"Generally Sachs and Luk do not mix, the problem being no one ever publishes this information. In volkswagen it is almost impossible to find Sachs to work on a Luk flywheel. If you have a Luk flywheel it is my best advise to use a luk clutch." 

9/8/10
He just told me the flywheel is a flat one and not a dual mass
He just

*So I'm not sure whether to get a Sachs Flywheel or get a LUK pressure plate. 

Is the stock flywheel of the Jetta/Golf LUK brand or made by LUK? I'm confused. The flywheel I have has the VW/Audi symbol on it so I thought it was just VW brand not LUK? Can anyone explain?*


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

Just my 2 cents worth... 

Luk is an excellent brand, but Sachs is a good brand also. I think it would be important to get a matched set, disk, pressure plate and throwout bearing. 

Dont forget its also possible to damage the disk and pressure plate on install. 2 common things happen to make no release. 

1. "Hanging" the trans from the disk. Meaning the input shaft goes throught the disk as the trans is being installed and the installers arms get tired or its not lining up just right, or anything that makes a struggle getting the trans bolted to the engine. By letting the trans hang on the disk it bends it making excess runout as it spins, therefore it draggs against the pressure plate and flywheel making the input shaft spin.

2. Pressure plate gets bent causing similar situation as number 1. It can be bent by not bolting the pressure plate down evenly. Guys in my shop will start all the pressure plate bolts by hand and then zap them down with a impact gun and the pressure plate gets bent as the first one is zapped. Pressure plate bolts need to be "drawn-down" evenly to prevent this.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

*Also is the transmission mount different on the manual to auto because mine looks a little crooked?*









*
I need to stop trying to figure this out on my own and start looking more to the Lord for answers on how to go about this. Lord what is your will? Give me wisdom on this matter.*


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

Acutally the part numbers of the auto mount is definaly different than the manual mount but visually they are identical. My theory for this is that the durameter (rigidness) of the rubber is different. I've used the auto mount with all the conversions I've done, and its been fine. 

With your mount you just need to adjust the position of the engine to make the mount straight. 

Vw service manual calls this something, I cant remember the term right now, but its something overtechnical like "sychronizing" the mounts or something. 

Basically just put a jack under the trans. Loosen the two large mount bolts and pry around on the engine trans assembly and the mount till its straight and the gaps are equal in the slots for the bolt holes. Note: Make sure your engine mount is "sychronized" also. Poorly "sychronized" mounts will make vibrations and shorten the life of the rubber in the mount.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

*Glory to God*

Thank you Sir. I appreciate your generous help. 

Thank God for this forum and the helpful people in it


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

Once I purchase the new clutch and go for round 2 with the LUK, 

*Will I need to replace all the bolts that are TTY/one time use? Flywheel, pressure plate, mount bolts? 

Or can I reuse them? 

The car hasn't moved from the spot I first started working on it in July. I've only started the engine maybe 15 times.*


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## southwesterly (Jul 26, 2009)

The mounts work the same. They look crooked because the bolts are not in straight. they should thread in with no wrench under no pressure. If the bolts are crooked or really hard to get in then you have probably stripped them off the mount. Go get a new one.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

Once I purchase the new clutch and go for round 2 with the LUK, 

*Will I need to replace all the bolts that are TTY/one time use? Flywheel, pressure plate, mount bolts? 

Or can I reuse them? 

The car hasn't moved from the spot I first started working on it in July. I've only started the engine maybe 15 times. *


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## HCSkorpio (Feb 14, 2008)

IMO I would reuse all the bolts. 

But I would probably get new flywheel bolts or at least put some new thread sealant when you use them.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

*I found the problem!!!*

I found a leak in the hydraulic system right where the master cylinder connects to the hydraulic line. When installing I tried replacing the o-ring there to stop a leak. I should have listened to all the people who recommended replacing the hydraulics (master, slave, and line). 

I was able to test it by first removing the air cleaner and battery case, then the slave clylinder. Then removing the shifter assembly from the top of the tranny. I then put a long bolt throught the hole right next to the access hole. 


















I put the slave back on. Then I pushed the pedal down. The pedal freely went half way down and then stopped. I continued to apply pressure and the pedal slowly went all the way down. I looked where the leak was previuosly and sure enough it was leaking again. 

I am now going to get a new master cylinder and line. 

I wanted to be 100% sure before I ordered the LUK clutch kit. 

*Anyone know where I can find a new hydraulic line? I see plenty of master cylinders available, but not the lines.*


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## MSFerrariF1 (Nov 14, 2008)

nosborn94 said:


> Once I purchase the new clutch and go for round 2 with the LUK,
> 
> *Will I need to replace all the bolts that are TTY/one time use? Flywheel, pressure plate, mount bolts?
> 
> ...


 Theoretically, yes. VW recommends replacing all one time use/stretch bolts. But you can re-use them if you'd like though not recommended. Stretch bolts are cheap. Not worth the hassle by skimping....a set of stretch bolts are way way cheaper than replacing your master, slave and hydraulic line....


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## MSFerrariF1 (Nov 14, 2008)

nosborn94 said:


> I found a leak in the hydraulic system right where the master cylinder connects to the hydraulic line. When installing I tried replacing the o-ring there to stop a leak. I should have listened to all the people who recommended replacing the hydraulics (master, slave, and line).
> 
> I was able to test it by first removing the air cleaner and battery case, then the slave clylinder. Then removing the shifter assembly from the top of the tranny. I then put a long bolt throught the hole right next to the access hole. I put the slave back on. Then I pushed the pedal down. The pedal freely went half way down and then stopped. I continued to apply pressure and the pedal slowly went all the way down. I looked where the leak was previuosly and sure enough it was leaking again.
> 
> ...


 you can get it from the dealer at about 90-110 bucks if I recall or.... 

http://uspmotorsports.com/product_info.php?cPath=26_357_39_44_90&products_id=465 

or a set with slave... 

http://uspmotorsports.com/product_info.php?cPath=26_357_39_44_90&products_id=466 

hope that helps....


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

MSFerrariF1 said:


> you can get it from the dealer at about 90-110 bucks if I recall or....
> 
> http://uspmotorsports.com/product_info.php?cPath=26_357_39_44_90&products_id=465
> 
> ...


 Thanks. I like those options. I'm going to replace the mount bolts for sure after I synchronize the mounting with the tranny and engine as CoolAirVW pointed out on the 2nd page. 

*Anyone else have any other places to get a new clutch hydraulic line from?*


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

*Anyone else have any other places to get a new clutch hydraulic line from? *


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## MSFerrariF1 (Nov 14, 2008)

just ponyup and buy it....you're not going to get any richer by waiting and saving a few bucks....you've come a long way on your conversion. Had you ordered it from the dealer, you could've gotten and installed it by now.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

You're probably right. I guess I should just man up and get it from the dealer or at least from USPMotorSports since its designed to be more reliable.


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## MSFerrariF1 (Nov 14, 2008)

dealer takes 2 days at the most to get the part. USP motorsports might take a bit more than that but should be cheaper than OEM.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

Just ordered the VW 5 Speed clutch line from USPMotorSports. 

I prefer that one because it cost less, is designed with stainless steel to prevent bloating and comes with the o-rings which are $5.36 each (02F141143A) at the local dealer. The clutch line at the dealer is $90.50 (1J1721465BD).


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## MSFerrariF1 (Nov 14, 2008)

Finally!!:thumbup:


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## southwesterly (Jul 26, 2009)

as an aside: 
the hounding sound that your car makes right after being started is the bushings in the starter motor. I had mine rebuilt. 
I picked up 2 transmissions fromt he junkyard, one was defective. Both had defective reverse light switches. There are 2 types, mine were both the screw in type (99 and older). (2000 and up is some sort of black box type thing) 
I still have not replaced the ECU. Does anyone know if I need to find a car with power options for the remote doors as well or can i program it somehow? Anyone clarify drive by wire?


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## MSFerrariF1 (Nov 14, 2008)

southwesterly said:


> as an aside:
> the hounding sound that your car makes right after being started is the bushings in the starter motor. I had mine rebuilt.
> I picked up 2 transmissions fromt he junkyard, one was defective. Both had defective reverse light switches. There are 2 types, mine were both the screw in type (99 and older). (2000 and up is some sort of black box type thing)
> I still have not replaced the ECU. Does anyone know if I need to find a car with power options for the remote doors as well or can i program it somehow? Anyone clarify drive by wire?


 Drive by wire means there is no more physical throttle cable running from the gas pedal to the throttle body. It is electronically actuated by a series of electronic sensors and actuators that control throttle valve opening from signals received from the gas pedal. As for your other question, options for the remote door locks and other interior electronics have nothing to do with choosing an ECU. Those options are governed by a totally different control module. Just give me your year model and engine type and I can tell you what ECU part no. you need.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

*Still no disengagement*

I replaced the clutch hose line and there's no more leak, but still same issue. When I push the pedal I feel it start to disengage near the bottom of the pedal's travel but it still doesn't disengage. 

I think I may have to replace the clutch plate and disc from a Sachs to a LUK like *southwesterly* was pointing out before. I hope I can get my money back from Sachs or something cause it should work. 

*Anybody have anymore thoughts before I decide to go with the LUK clutch kit?*


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## southwesterly (Jul 26, 2009)

2001 golf. 2.0L AVH. Power options,


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## HCSkorpio (Feb 14, 2008)

nosborn94 said:


> I replaced the clutch hose line and there's no more leak, but still same issue. When I push the pedal I feel it start to disengage near the bottom of the pedal's travel but it still doesn't disengage.
> 
> I think I may have to replace the clutch plate and disc from a Sachs to a LUK like *southwesterly* was pointing out before. I hope I can get my money back from Sachs or something cause it should work.
> 
> *Anybody have anymore thoughts before I decide to go with the LUK clutch kit?*


If you go with the luk clutch kit, you might as well go with the luk flywheel too.

Also be sure to change the alumnium gasket between the engine & trans. I know they are different between the 01M and the 02J.


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## southwesterly (Jul 26, 2009)

there was no aluminum spacer on the two donor cars i took flywheels off of. Just the automatics.


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## MSFerrariF1 (Nov 14, 2008)

southwesterly said:


> 2001 golf. 2.0L AVH. Power options,


06A906018FB - (2000)
06A906018ES - (2001)
06A906018ET - (2001)

Or if you have a VAGCOM, you could try to see if it is re-codable. I'm assuming your current ecu part no. ends in either 018ES or ET. Any of those 3 should do....


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

The spacer/dust tin/ or whatever you want to call it was in the donor car and that one fit fine. 





I've have to replace all the hydraulic compnents. I did the master cylinder and hydraulic clutch line (USPMotorSports stainless steel line) and now after testing, I have to replace the slave cylinder. I noticed the pedal travel was not very firm and it traveled far before any real tension built up. I clamped down the slave to test it. the pedal should not have gone very far. Unfortunately it was very loose and while doing the test I noticed a leak in the slave.:banghead: I hope this test didn't damaage the slave and cause the leak. 








I remember seeing advice mentioning replacing all the hydraulic components, but I won't know if that's the real issue until after I replace it. 

I'm going to get a slave from the local Oreilly Autopart store. 

I won't know if it's the pressure plate and/or disc until after I get a new slave. hopefully that's it. If not, then the cost and time of this project is definitely out weighing the benefits at this point. 

My Jetta has been unusable since July. Of course I have limited time to work on it. Especially I also had to fix my 98 Ford Explorer latley (new heads and gasket; new clutch kit and slave).


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## southwesterly (Jul 26, 2009)

Sorry to hear that.
I am still very happy with my conversion and i know you will be too but I HAVE abandoned the sachs clutch kit for the moment. One day I might buy their flywheel if thats what you said they expect to be the problem.
10,000km and still running strong. Still havent replaced the ecu though. Total cost for me was still cheaper than rebuilding the automatic, however, you are right. the lack of clutch disengagement was very frustrating for me and i almost took the thing to the junkyard after much cursing and the thought of dousing it in gas and lighting it on fire. it makes sense that your clutch pedal doesnt do anything until late because the pressure plate is lower on the sachs plate than the luc one. Mine was the same.

Hate to say this but my oil level on my brake reservoir is still the same as it was when i filled it. so since we had the same symptoms then i'd hazard a guess that you broke your slave trying to test it. who knows, maybe a new slave will fix the problem though. I changed my master and had no luck until i changed the pressure plate back to the luc set. go to the junkyard, get everything bolted onto a junk cars flywheel and just swap it into yours. Take your reciept for the swap with you and tell them they forgot to give you a clutch set. Now, i guarantee you are avoiding this possiblity because you have probably got new stretch bolts already and will have to get new ones again as well as do all this work...AGAIN. Ya it sucks but I think we have come to the conclusion that it is the pressure plate that is the problem. Dont forget that I did have a transmission shop compare the luc and sachs pressure plate and they do differ by more than 5mm not bolted down and more when bolted down. You will feel much better when it works properly! Trust Me! You and i can work out who is going to rectify this sachs issue soon enough.

PS. Everyone that i talked to said that the issue was hydraulics. In the end i got fed up and changed bakc to the old pressure plate. They were wrong. THE PROBLEM IS THE SACHS CLUTCH SET CONFIGURATION WITH THE STOCK VEHICLE PARTS. HOW I PROVE IT TO YOU ON HERE IS IMPOSSIBLE. JUST CHANGE IT! You will go around in circles like I did for days otherwise. Think of all the time you will waste testing other things only to replace everything and find out that you have to do what you are trying to avoid. Im guilty of this, for sure. It sure does suck that sachs isnt going to do anything else for us at the moment though, eh?

Of course, since you need a new slave now - change that first and report back.

Since you are changing your slave, I would reprime your master. to bleed the slave, I found it easiest with 2 people. ***You need to make sure you trust this other person***. Let me explain what i did: person 1 was in the drivers seat. person 2 was in the engine compartment with the slave detached and elevated as high as possible because air bubbles rise easier in those hydraulic lines. person 2 opens the bleeder valve then pushes the piston on the slave in, all the way. WITH THE BLEEDER VALVE OPEN, person 1 pushes the pedal to the floor and holds! Person 2 closes the bleeder valve, person 1 raises the pedal then person 2 lets go of the piston on the slave cylinder. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE BLEEDER VALVE OPEN AND THAT FLUID EASILY COMES OUT WHEN YOU DEPRESS THE SLAVE PISTON BEFORE THE CLUTCH PEDAL IS DEPRESSED OR YOU WILL BLOW THE SLAVE UP! (the pedal will drop to the floor with no pressure faster than your foot will if its open correctly) as well, orient the slave in different ways every time you do a run. I repeated like 30+ times. This is when i had the transmission shop look at it and they found no air bubbles whatsoever in the system. ya it sounds sketchy which is why you need to trust your friend to follow directions and make sure you open that bleeder valve before the pedal is depressed! you need: one 11mm wrench. I am no mechanic but I tried the vacume way, and bleeding it in the car with no luck. this is what worked for me.

ehm, when you do go and change your pressure plate, dont disconnect the hydraulics. instead, LOCK ALL YOUR CAR DOORS SO NO ONE CAN TOUCH THE CLUTCH PEDAL and zap strap your slave somewhere out of the way so you dont have to bleed it again.

To be fair, I took my transmission out 5 times in this swap. Since mine worked after the 5th time and didnt reprime the hydraulics at all, that means you only have to do it TWICE!

So, did i convince you to change your pressure plate yet? I would help but, unfortunately im on the north end of washington state. I might drive down to San Diego in may though but I expect you to have this done by time I reach northern california. Have this done by next month at the latest! Deal?

GIT ER DONE!


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## southwesterly (Jul 26, 2009)

MSFerrariF1 said:


> 06A906018FB - (2000)
> 06A906018ES - (2001)
> 06A906018ET - (2001)
> 
> Or if you have a VAGCOM, you could try to see if it is re-codable. I'm assuming your current ecu part no. ends in either 018ES or ET. Any of those 3 should do....


Tried vagcom and it wouldnt let me recode. I dont know what ecu i have and wont find out until i rip it out of the car to replace it...unless i get vw to tell me what it is by my vin....hmmm, would that be helpful?


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## MSFerrariF1 (Nov 14, 2008)

southwesterly said:


> Tried vagcom and it wouldnt let me recode. I dont know what ecu i have and wont find out until i rip it out of the car to replace it...unless i get vw to tell me what it is by my vin....hmmm, would that be helpful?


Are you using a Rosstech vagcom? Not all ECU's are re-codable. I was just saying you could try. If not, then you will have to use an ECU from a manual car. ( I swapped mine from a manual). One of those 3 I mentioned should do. If you are using rosstech vcds, click on "select control module", click on "01-Engine." Give it a few seconds, then ecu part no. should pop-up under VAG Number box.

If you will swap your ecu, then you will have to adapt your ecu to your immobilizer, in order for your car to start when you flip the key. Otherwise, immobilizer will not allow your car to start. I had to do this to which took a few seconds. And before you do all this, make sure to disconnect the plug going to the TCM.


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## southwesterly (Jul 26, 2009)

MSFerrariF1 said:


> Are you using a Rosstech vagcom? Not all ECU's are re-codable. I was just saying you could try. If not, then you will have to use an ECU from a manual car. ( I swapped mine from a manual). One of those 3 I mentioned should do. If you are using rosstech vcds, click on "select control module", click on "01-Engine." Give it a few seconds, then ecu part no. should pop-up under VAG Number box.
> 
> If you will swap your ecu, then you will have to adapt your ecu to your immobilizer, in order for your car to start when you flip the key. Otherwise, immobilizer will not allow your car to start. I had to do this to which took a few seconds. And before you do all this, make sure to disconnect the plug going to the TCM.


I did use rosstech. The bentley manual says that the ecu cannot be reprogrammed in fine print as stated a few months back by someone. I thought I would do it to humor people though, i mean, might as well try and report bakc right? Thanks for the ecu numbers, very very much appreciated!

The immobilizer issue is my next fear. Hopefully i can figure it out.


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## MSFerrariF1 (Nov 14, 2008)

southwesterly said:


> I did use rosstech. The bentley manual says that the ecu cannot be reprogrammed in fine print as stated a few months back by someone. I thought I would do it to humor people though, i mean, might as well try and report bakc right? Thanks for the ecu numbers, very very much appreciated!
> 
> The immobilizer issue is my next fear. Hopefully i can figure it out.


ahh....Easy....assuming you have immobilizer II....


http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/immobilizer2.html

Then do a throttle body adaptation after just to be sure...


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

*Update: Those who do not ask will not receive*

*I don't why I didn't just ask Rockauto (the place I got it from) if they would take back the Sachs clutch. But talking back and forth with the Sachs tech I believed helped. Now I can return the kit and get the LUK brand one.*

*Here's a collection of emails. One from Bob Urbanek who has been really helpful. One from me to Rock Auto and two from Rock Auto: *



xxxx I did get this. I have been going back and forth with Germany to seek if they are aware of any Luk Sach issue. I have not heard anything back as of yet. 

Explain to me why Rock Auto will not take the kit back?? I am familiar with them and never heard them denying any warranty 



Mit freundlichen Grüßen/Kind regards 
Robert E. Urbanek 
Automotive Technology Group 

ZF Services North America,LLC 
3637 Mallard Run. Sheffield Village/OH 44054/USA 
Phone/Telefon+1 440-871-4890 ext 129/Telefax +1 440-277-8501 

[email protected] 




-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:

Hello. My name is xxxxxxxxxx and back in June I ordered a Sachs (K70106-02) clutch kit for my Volkswagen Jetta. After placing the new clutch into my car, I could not shift the gears and it is stuck in nuetral. It is now November and the car is still not shifting while the car is on.

I have been consulting a Sachs technical support representative via email and he was giving me different possiblities for the cause including but not limited to a problem with the hydraulic release system. I have since replaced all those components (new master cylinder, new hydraulic line, new slave cylinder) and run other tests to rule out any other possiblities. I wanted to rule out my fault on anything before I tried to return the kit. Due to limited time I have to work on the car, this has taken me a while to do.

The bottom line is that the clutch kit is not compatible with my 2001 VW Jetta 2.0 (AZG). The tech pointed out that the cause probably lies with the new clutch kit not being compatible with the original flywheel because the flywheel is LUK and the new kit is Sachs.

There was no info making me aware of this possibility on the website or in or on the manufacturer's box itself.

This product is in my eyes is defective since it should be able to fit with the original parts.

I have also talked with another person who purchased the same kit (K70106-02) for their 2001 Jetta 2.0 and had the same problem. They put in an original LUK clutch kit in and the car operated properly.

I'd like to return the part under warranty. I have to get the original LUK brand kit.

My order number was xxxxxxxxx and I purchased the kit on June 10, 2010.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------




Good Morning,

After speaking with the technician at Sachs, they would like to be able to examine the clutch kit you received in order to do more research into the problem that you experienced with K70106-02. If it is possible, please include all of the information you have about your vehicle and the problems you experienced with the part. We will then forward this information to Sachs so they hopefully will be able to correct this issue in the future. For your convenience, I have sent a new copy of the return instructions with a link to a FedEx prepaid shipping label. Please use the label to return the part and the refund will be issued within 5 business days after the part reaches the warehouse. I apologize for the inconvenience this part has caused. If you need further assistance please respond to this email or call us toll free at 1-866-762-5288.

Thank you,

Christy 
RockAuto Customer Service


----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Good Morning,

Thank you for contacting us. The technician at Sachs was unable to determine why the clutch kit was not compatible with your vehicle. He will be looking further into this situation. As requested, I have set up a return for you and sent instructions for return to xxxxxxxxxx. In order to expedite your refund, once you have shipped your return back to us please be sure to call or email us with your tracking number. 

We will issue a refund to your PayPal account within 5 business days of receiving your return. We will also send you an email once the refund has been issued. If you need further assistance please respond to this email or call us toll free at 1-866-762-5288.

Thank you,

Christy 
RockAuto Customer Service

phone: (608) 661-1376
fax: (608) 836-5694
toll-free: 1-866-ROCKAUTO (1-866-762-5288)
http://www.rockauto.com


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

I'll be ordering the new LUK kit soon along with new stretch. You think I need to get new axle bolts and dog bone bolts too since those are stretch bolts or can I get away with just new mount bolts?


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## southwesterly (Jul 26, 2009)

I replaced the mount bolts (i would recommend for cheap insurance at the least), but havent replaced the 12 axle bolts (which have been in and out 4 times) at this time. I have only ~8,000km on them though. I am sort of expecting to have to change my clutch in the next few yrs though since i took the used junk yard one. Im stoked you were able to return yours. I got mine out of a warehouse through some guy who isnt responding to me in any way. My luk clutch still works well (used one).

ps. Im starting to consider driving this puppy down to San Diego in may. I think the results mean I owe you a beer for setting me off on this adventure nosborn94. Not necessarily the journey with respect to the clutch issue though, lol .:banghead:

Good luck!


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## southwesterly (Jul 26, 2009)

sweet, i;ll be looking into this tmr.
Still need to pick up a comp tho.


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## dmplayer2 (Sep 2, 2010)

my 01m is crapping out in my 04 looking to do the swap also. the Bentley doesn't have coding for the ecu for the trans. does this mean i don't have to recode?


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

In mk4 cars tdi computers can be recoded to manual trans. 2.0L computers cannot. I dont know about other engines or newer cars.

It would be more likely that it cant be recoded meaning that you'll have to buy a computer to get it done. That make it more difficult because of the immobilizer but it can be done.


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## MSFerrariF1 (Nov 14, 2008)

CoolAirVw said:


> In mk4 cars tdi computers can be recoded to manual trans. 2.0L computers cannot. I dont know about other engines or newer cars.
> 
> It would be more likely that it cant be recoded meaning that you'll have to buy a computer to get it done. That make it more difficult because of the immobilizer but it can be done.


vr6 also can't be recoded....actually, adapting another ecu to your immobilizer is simple and quick. Won't take more than a minute.


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## dmplayer2 (Sep 2, 2010)

can i adapt the ecu to my immobilizer using vag-com or do i have to take it to the dealership. not sure which immobilizer i have in the car


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## MSFerrariF1 (Nov 14, 2008)

dmplayer2 said:


> can i adapt the ecu to my immobilizer using vag-com or do i have to take it to the dealership. not sure which immobilizer i have in the car


yes if you have all the necessary info, tools and understanding to do the procedure. If not, then you have to take it to a dealer or someone who knows how to.

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/immobilizer2.html

These instructions are for immobilizer 2. You will have to find out first what immobilizer version you have then follow the appropriate steps to adapt.

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/immobilizer.html


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## dmplayer2 (Sep 2, 2010)

i have immobilizer III. so i have to change the ECU


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

*It's alive!!!!! Praise the lord!!!!!*

I worked on it all weekend. I replaced the Sachs kit and put in the LUK kit. It's a lot of fun to drive. My wife was crying after I got done with it. I will post more details later on other things I noticed and things I still need to do for the future like replacing the ECM and cruise control and some other cosmetic stuff. But I've driven it the last 3 days and it's great. 


Pics/Details and all that good stuff yall woud like to see. Coming Soon... 

!!!!!!Please don't flood the thread until I post the pics and details!!!!!!


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## MSFerrariF1 (Nov 14, 2008)

Finally!!!!! Did you rewire your backup lights already?:thumbup: So I presume you're driving around with your CEL on...


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

*Need Help with ECM part number*



MSFerrariF1 said:


> Finally!!!!! Did you rewire your backup lights already?:thumbup: So I presume you're driving around with your CEL on...


Yeah. I got the back up lights working a while ago. when I first replaced everything back in June. I just never did the cruise control since I'm looking more into what ECM is required for my particular car. I remebered that you knew which ones to get.

*Can you give me the compatible numbers for the ECM in my car?* *2001, 2.0 Jetta, eng code AZG, power options, cruise control, premium sound (not sure if that matters). *

*And where are you getting the ECM part numbers from?*

Let me know if any other info needed. I know how wire everything for cruise control. I figured that out when I first started. I just wasn't sure what ECM to get. I did take the ECM from the donor. It's 06A 906 032 FQ. Not sure if that will work. I remember the donor was a 2002 Golf 2.0 with a AZG or AVH engine code (I forget which eng code).


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## MSFerrariF1 (Nov 14, 2008)

pm'd


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

MSFerrariF1 said:


> 06A906032DS should be for a 5spd.
> 
> Just curious, if you have a vagcom, can you give me your current ECU part no? The last 2 letters should end in DT......lmk


(From MSFerrariF1 in pm)


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

*Looking For ECM Part #*

*I used the vag com to find that the current part no for my ECM is 06A906032BQ for the automatic. Anyone know what the part number for the manaul transmission ECM is so I can put in a new computer to get rid of the check light and hook up the cruise control.*

My car is a 2001 Jetta 2.0 AZG


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

*I used the vag com to find that the current part no for my ECM is 06A906032BQ for the automatic. Anyone know what the part number for the manaul transmission ECM is so I can put in a new computer to get rid of the check light and hook up the cruise control.*

My car is a 2001 Jetta 2.0 AZG

Im getting different answers from everyone. I got:

06A906018ES
and
06A906032DS

*Which one is it or are neither of these correct?*


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

Just found this post:


If you copy and past this to a word DOC will make work better, check your number this makes a big change. I don't think they will work togather, 2001 vehicle Data --------- 
Cabrio C ABA 2.0L LEV 037906018C+E 06A906461 A

New Beetle P ALH 1.9L TDI Tier 1 038906012N 06A906461 
New Beetle P ALH 1.9L TDI Tier 1 038906012CR 06A906461 
New Beetle S AEG 2.0L Tier 1 06A906018EQ+ER 06A906461 A
New Beetle T AEG 2.0L LEV 06A906018EN+EP 06A906461 A
New Beetle B AZG 2.0L LEV 06A906032EA+EB 06A906461 G
New Beetle K AVH 2.0L ULEV 06A906032BR+BS 06A906461 G
New Beetle C APH 1.8T TLEV 06A906032A+C 06A906461 A
New Beetle D AWV 1.8T LEV 06A906032DP+DN 06A906461 L
New Beetle D AWV 1.8T LEV 06A906032FD+EM 06A906461 L

Golf / Jetta P ALH 1.9L TDI Tier 1 038906012BD 06A906461 
Golf / Jetta P ALH 1.9L TDI Tier 1 038906012CP 06A906461 
Golf / Jetta S AEG 2.0L Tier 1 06A906018FA+FB 06A906461 A
Golf / Jetta T AEG 2.0L LEV 06A906018ES+ET 06A906461 A
Golf / Jetta B AZG 2.0L LEV 06A906032DS+DT 06A906461 G
*Golf / Jetta K AVH 2.0L ULEV 06A906032BP+BQ 06A906461 G**** 
***My car is an AZG even though according to the dealer it shoud be an AVH,but doesn't matter because they are the same design***

Golf / Jetta C AWD 1.8T TLEV 06A906032CL+CM 06A906461 D
Golf / Jetta D AWW 1.8T LEV 06A906032DL+DM 06A906461 L
Golf / Jetta D AWW 1.8T LEV 06A906032GH 06A906461 L
Golf / Jetta G AFP 2.8L LEV 021906018M+Q O71906461 B
Golf / Jetta G AFP 2.8L LEV 021906018R+S O71906461 B

Passat C AUG 1.8T LEV 4B0906018BQ 06A906461 L
Passat H ATQ 2.8L LEV 3B0907551BS O78133471 E
Passat H ATQ 4 motion LEV 3B0907551BA O78133471 E

MY 2000 
Cabrio C ABA 2.0L LEV 037906018A 06A906461 A

New Beetle F ALH 1.9L TDI Tier 1 038906012N 06A906461 
New Beetle C AEG 2.0l Tier 1 06A906018EQ+ER 06A906461 A
New Beetle C AEG 2.0l LEV 06A906018EP+EN 06A906461 A
New Beetle D APH 1.8T TLEV 06A906032A+C 06A906461 A

Golf / Jetta F ALH 1.9L TDI Tier 1 038906012BD 06A906461 
Golf / Jetta C AEG 2.0L Tier 1 06A906018FA+FB 06A906461 A
Golf / Jetta C AEG 2.0L LEV 06A906018ES+ET 06A906461 A
Golf / Jetta D AWD 1.8T TLEV 06A906032CL+CM 06A906461 D
Golf / Jetta E AFP 2.8L LEV 021906018K+M+Q O71906461 B

Passat A ATW 1.8T LEV 4B0906018BG+BH 06A906461 D
Passat D ATQ 2.8L LEV 3B0907551AN+AS O78133471 E
Passat H ATQ 4 motion LEV 3B0907551BA O78133471 E

*Now I need to comfirm whether the engine is AZG or AVH? Makes me unsure looking a the part numbers? This whole time time I thought it was AZG because of the sticker I found, but the current ECM shows it would be a AVH. I'll double check. It could be that both the ...032BQ and ...032DT both work on the same model which would be great. More to choose from.*


More info I found:

AEG
TIER 1/2= NO-SAI
TLEV1/2= SAI

From what I gather, NB, Golf and Jetta ECUs are all compatible, manual/auto can be used, but there was talk of recoding them to not look for the TCM, I am unsure on this.
•>> 9M-X-999 000 -> This means cars up to year 1999 with serial number 999000
9M-Y-000 001 >> -> This means from year 2000 on with serial number 000001
9M-Y-000 001 >> 9M-1-075 840 LEV -> This means from year 2000 (any serial number) up to year 2001 with serial number 075840

Jetta:

AEG 06A 906 018 BH w/o cruise control >> 9M-X-999 000 TIER 1
AEG 06A 906 018 FB w/o cruise control 9M-Y-000 001 >> TIER 1
AEG 06A 906 018 BG with cruise control >> 9M-X-999 000 TIER 1
AEG 06A 906 018 FA with cruise control 9M-Y-000 001 >> TIER 1

AEG 06A 906 018 BJ w/o cruise control >> 9M-X-999 000 LEV
AEG 06A 906 018 ET w/o cruise control 9M-Y-000 001 >> 9M-1-075 840 LEV
AEG 06A 906 018 J with cruise control >> 9M-X-999 000 LEV
AEG 06A 906 018 ES with cruise control 9M-Y-000 001 >> 9M-1-075 840 LEV

Golf:

AEG 06A 906 018 JD w/o cruise control >> 1J-X-999 999 TIER 1
AEG 06A 906 018 JM w/o cruise control 1J-Y-000 001 >> TIER 1
AEG 06A 906 018 JC with cruise control >> 1J-X-999 000 TIER 1
AEG 06A 906 018 JL with cruise control 1J-Y-000 001 >> TIER 1

AEG 06A 906 018 JB w/o cruise control >> 1J-X-999 000 LEV
AEG 06A 906 018 JK w/o cruise control 1J-Y-000 001 >> 9M-1-075 840 LEV
AEG 06A 906 018 JA with cruise control >> 1J-X-999 000 LEV
AEG 06A 906 018 JJ with cruise control 1J-Y-000 001 >> 9M-1-075 840 LEV

Beetle:

AEG 06A 906 018 AB with cruise control >> 1C-W-499 000 TIER 1
AEG 06A 906 018 AE w/o cruise control 1C-X-400 001 >> 1C-X-499 000 TIER 1
AEG 06A 906 018 ER w/o cruise control 1C-Y-400 001 >> TIER 1
AEG 06A 906 018 P with cruise control >> 1C-X-499 000 TIER 1
AEG 06A 906 018 EQ with cruise control 1C-Y-400 001 >> TIER 1

AEG 06A 906 018 CQ w/o cruise control >> 1C-X-499 000 LEV
AEG 06A 906 018 EP w/o cruise control 1C-Y-400 001 >> LEV
AEG 06A 906 018 CR with cruise control >> 1C-X-499 000 LEV
AEG 06A 906 018 EN with cruise control 1C-Y-400 001 >> LEV

The others Not much info is given on cruise control and SAI options, feel free to contribute your own numbers and your options, however I do think that ALL 2.0s after AEG had SAI standard.
•AZG 06A 906 032 DS 9M-1-075-841 >> (manual)
AZG 06A 906 032 DT 9M-1-075-841 >> (automatic)

AZG 06A 906 032 FN >> 9M-2-999-000 (manual)
AZG 06A 906 032 FP >> 9M-2-999-000 (automatic)

AVH 06A 906 032 BP 9M-1-028-293 >> (manual)
AVH 06A 906 032 BQ 9M-1-028-293 >> (automatic)

AVH 06A 906 032 FQ >> 9M-2-999-000 (manual)
AVH 06A 906 032 FR >> 9M-2-999-000 (automatic)

AVH 06A 906 032 MC 9M-3-000-001 >> 9M-3-999-000 (manual)
AVH 06A 906 032 MD 9M-3-000-001 >> 9M-3-999-000 (automatic)

BEV 06A 906 032 MT 9M-4-000-001 >> (manual)
BEV 06A 906 032 NA 9M-4-000-001 >> (automatic)

BBW 06A 906 032 PE 9M-4-000-001 >> (manual)
BBW 06A 906 032 PD 9M-4-000-001 >> (automatic)


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## helmy (Feb 8, 2009)

> I was just looking through the Bentley in the coding section and saw that it not possible to recode the ECM to recognize my car as a manual because it is an AZG engine. Originally Posted by ihavenoideax2


could you check the same about the 2.0 APK engine please?
please i need this info please, please, please


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

helmy said:


> could you check the same about the 2.0 APK engine please?
> please i need this info please, please, please


I dont have the manual now because I took it out from the library but I remember that the only engines you cant recode are the AZG and AVH which I believe were in the years 2001 and 2002. I know for sure you can recode the AEG. What year is your APK 2.0?


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## swozniak4201 (Oct 8, 2009)

*some questions about your swap*

hey my name is steve. im in the middle of the same swap only mine is a 2001 jetta vr6. i was fortunate to get a complete donor car for the swap so i have ecu gauges axles key all the stuff i need. so i have been studying the bentley wiring diagrams, and your post is encouraging because am on the same track you were. any helpful hints? one thing i noticed about the diagrams were where for the manual specified wire diameter is 2.5, while for the same wiring for the AUTO the specified wire size is 1.0mm. did you run into any issues with this? i wouldnt mind just running new wires but i noticed the are tracers runnin between said wires to other wires. and the bentley lists these as "current carrying" refer to bentley page number 97-285 example on this page is A41 inside the circle top right of diagram. i might just be blowin steam but anyway yeah, just wanted to touch bases with you because i know no one who i can ask for help on this, nor anyone who can read wiring diagrams and two minds are better than one. again, badass thread.
steve


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## slrrls (Oct 19, 2010)

*1.9 tdi manual swap clutch question*

I have the parts to swap into either of two jetta's, a 2001 or a 2003. Both have the automatic 4 speed. 
It turns out that I have the Dual mass flywheel which is a I understand it the stock flywheel. 
My question is did I buy the right clutch and pressure plate kit? 
I have done the install yet. 
the part number for the clutch pak kit I have is by sach's part number i K70249-01 
I bought this at O-O-O O-Riley's. 
After reading this 2.0 thread and the problems you had with another Sach's kit then I figure I should check out my kit before the install. 
So.... Any one know from experience if I have the right kit for the stock dual mass flywheel in the 2001 or 2003 TDI?


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

swozniak4201 said:


> hey my name is steve. im in the middle of the same swap only mine is a 2001 jetta vr6. i was fortunate to get a complete donor car for the swap so i have ecu gauges axles key all the stuff i need. so i have been studying the bentley wiring diagrams, and your post is encouraging because am on the same track you were. any helpful hints? one thing i noticed about the diagrams were where for the manual specified wire diameter is 2.5, while for the same wiring for the AUTO the specified wire size is 1.0mm. did you run into any issues with this? i wouldnt mind just running new wires but i noticed the are tracers runnin between said wires to other wires. and the bentley lists these as "current carrying" refer to bentley page number 97-285 example on this page is A41 inside the circle top right of diagram. i might just be blowin steam but anyway yeah, just wanted to touch bases with you because i know no one who i can ask for help on this, nor anyone who can read wiring diagrams and two minds are better than one. again, badass thread.
> steve


 I did not have any issues with wire diameter. I don't believe you should have any issues. Just remember to double check the color of wire that you look for. Be sure you match the year, model and engine type because the wire colors are different each year. So the pics I eventually put up when I find time may not match what you have. Do resistance test to confirm the origin of the wires from ECM to PNP (Park Nuetral Relay) or PNP to Transmission Switch on the tranny because there may be some wires that have the same color.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

slrrls said:


> I have the parts to swap into either of two jetta's, a 2001 or a 2003. Both have the automatic 4 speed.
> It turns out that I have the Dual mass flywheel which is a I understand it the stock flywheel.
> My question is did I buy the right clutch and pressure plate kit?
> I have done the install yet.
> ...


 After my experience I wouldn't go with anything but the original manufacturer which is LUK. The Sachs kit you got is a different model so it may just work fine. But I recommend using like parts and you're about put a Sachs clutch kit onto a LUK flywheel. I recomend replacing the hydraulics (master,line, and slave). I didn't at first after people told me I should. i was trying to save money, but ended up putting new ones after they failed and leaked. 

The fact is I may have not tightened down the PP (pressure plate) bolts tight enough. The next time round I tapped the PP bolt holes and put thread locker on them to ensure that wouldn't be an issue. I tapped the bolts holes for the flywheel bolts as well since one of them started going in at an angle.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

*LAST STEP: The ECM*

I have one more thing to do. Put in another ECM. I've narrowed down the part numbers to either 06A 906 032 BP 
06A 906 032 DS 

I have 06A 906 032 FQ from the donor car since it came with the parts as a package deal. My car originally has 06A 906 032 BQ which is the opposite of 06A 906 032 BP so me thinks BP is the one, but my car has an AZG engine code when AVH calls for the BP and according to the table DS is the right one for AZG. *Which part number is for my car or do both work fine? Anyone have a similar setup?** 
I also wonder if the ECM I have (06A 906 032 FQ), will just fine. If I try it, will it hurt anything? 

The other thing is I don't know how defeat the immobilizer. I don't want to have to go to the dealer. Anybody have any thoughts?*


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

You can drive the car with the ECM you have. I dont know whether you other ECM's will work or not. 

Defeating the immobilizer may be an issue. If you have the whole car you can use vag-tacho to get the 4 digit code out of it, but if you put a new ecm into your car I'm not sure vag-tcacho will work because it gets the code out of the instrament cluster. This is something your gonna have to just try and work through. 

my suggestion.... 

Drive it with your ecm as you work the bugs out. 
Try to recode to manual trans (even though most have said your car isn't recodable). 
Try vag-tacho on whole donor car if possible to get the code. If not possible install the ecm on your car and try with vag-tacho. 

If this stuff dont work then your probably gonna have to go to dealer or send your ECM to a tuner for a immobilizer delete.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

CoolAirVw said:


> You can drive the car with the ECM you have. I dont know whether you other ECM's will work or not.
> 
> Defeating the immobilizer may be an issue. If you have the whole car you can use vag-tacho to get the 4 digit code out of it, but if you put a new ecm into your car I'm not sure vag-tcacho will work because it gets the code out of the instrament cluster. This is something your gonna have to just try and work through.
> 
> ...


 According to the Ross Tech, Immo II does not require the SKC pin and a simple procedure with the VAG COM is done. It doesn't require a Vag tacho or a trip to the dealer. It looks like it takes like 1 minute to do as well. 

I just called the VW dealer and had them look my original VIN to determine the ECU part number and he said its supposed to 06A 906 032 BQ which according to the tables shouldn't be. He also was able to tell me that manual version would be the 06A 906 032 BP. 

Im going to order the ...032 BP which I found online and try it out. Pray for me. Hope it works and then I can finally finish this thing before SMOG check comes up in June. 

ROSS TECH PROCEDURE (Looks easy) 

*Immobilizer II ECU Swapping* 

Ross-Tech is not responsible for any damage or problems that may result from following these instructions. They are to be used at your own risk. As always, you should refer to a Factory Repair Manual for your vehicle! 
ECM Matching Prerequisites: 

Battery voltage at least 12.5 V. 

Immobilizer II ECM 
[Select] 
[17 - Instruments] 
[Adaption - 10] 
Leave channel at "00" 
[Read] 
[Save] 
[Done, Go Back] 
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06] 
[Exit] 
Turn ignition OFF for 15 seconds. Start vehicle. 

Notes: 
For cars with a separate Immobilizer (Includes 2000+ EuroVan, Cabrio, and many older non-US models), use [25 Immobilizer] instead of [17 - Instruments]. The rest of the procedure is the same. 
On some Euro Audi models with Immobilizer 2, the PIN/SKC will be required. 


*Activating Cruise Control on a new ECU (DBW)* 

DBW (Drive-by-Wire) Factory fresh ECU's often come with cruise control de-activated. 

[Select] 
[01 - Engine] 
[Login - 11] 
Enter 11463 to activate cruise control 
[Do It!]


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## bobbruce0584 (Apr 15, 2011)

*Starting swap in 01 Jetta*

Hi,
I am starting a swap in an 01 Jetta 2.0 engine code AZG. While I see the post on the electrical differences, I am not quite sure I understand what needs to be done. Are the electrical steps posted somewhere that explan what needs to be done?

Thanks for the great info. 

Bob


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

bobbruce0584 said:


> Hi,
> I am starting a swap in an 01 Jetta 2.0 engine code AZG. While I see the post on the electrical differences, I am not quite sure I understand what needs to be done. Are the electrical steps posted somewhere that explan what needs to be done?
> 
> Thanks for the great info.
> ...


I haven't posted the steps I used yet but you can use this thread for some reference. The wiring process is the same but where you plug them into the ECM will differ depending on the year and model. Yours will have the same pins numbers as mine

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=151516


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## southwesterly (Jul 26, 2009)

can something similar to this be done to recode for a manual transmission?

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3692819-diy-window-rollup-rolldown-w-keyfob


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

southwesterly said:


> can something similar to this be done to recode for a manual transmission?
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3692819-diy-window-rollup-rolldown-w-keyfob


Tdi computers can be recoded manual to auto and vice-versa. But from what I've read, 2.0L and 1.8T cannot.


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## swozniak4201 (Oct 8, 2009)

*computer swap*

ok i swapped my jetta vr6 like you did. what i found out about the computer and stuff was that although reading was intimidation, when i got the stuff and did it it was very easy, i didnt even need a vag com. all i used was the vag tacho off ebay for like 25 bucks. i just put the new computer and gauges in, and programmed the key using the 4 digit code. worked like a champ. you may need it to adapt your throttle sensor. Passed emissions here in texas the next day.

One odd bit...when i shifted the rpm's seemed to jump? strange. but it went away with the computer swap. let me know what you find.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

*ECM Adaptation Success!*

With the help of Jose06GLI and his full version of Ross Tech, here in San Diego, I was able to follow the simple procedures outlined before in this thread and vuala it's working good now.

So I first found the right ECM part number form the dealer (06A 906 032 BP) and then with the Ross Tech program adapted the ECM to the immobilizer. Don't need the SKC/Pin key for this. It took 1 minute. Very quick. I turned the engine on and it stumbled but I figured the computer was learning. I turned it off and then back on and sure enough it was running smoothly.

As advised by many and Ross Tech, I also did the throttle body adaptation, which they say to do when putting in a different ECM.

And best of all!!! *NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT!!!*

And next in order, and last but not least, cruise control cut off switch for the clutch pedal.

(Again, I am currently working on a write up with pics. It will be done soon)


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## evilpat (Feb 26, 2002)

CoolAirVw said:


> Tdi computers can be recoded manual to auto and vice-versa. But from what I've read, 2.0L and 1.8T cannot.


They flash is the limitation with 1.8t and 2.0L ECUs. Reflash the auto ECU with a manual file for that same year and then you can recode with VAG-COM to eliminate the code for the missing TCU.


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## swozniak4201 (Oct 8, 2009)

congrats!! your gonna love the new inspection sticker!:laugh:


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

*Cruise Control on Auto Swap?*

I just wired the cruise control today according to my diagram, I wrote up. Unfortunately the cruise control was not working like I expected it to. I even logged in the ECM and reactivated the cruise control since after swapping an ECM its often not on, but still no go. 

I wired the blue Clutch Vacuum vent Valve Switch to pin 39 on the ECM with an old grey/red TCM wire, and checked the continuity and voltage, but still no cruise control. 

No the thing is before I put in the new ECM the cruise control was working on the original Auto ECM, but without the clutch pedal wired in. As soon as I put the new ECM in the cruise control was not working and still doesn't. 

The other thing is when I looked for pin 39, there was another wire going into it. It was a white/red wire. I cut it halfway and spliced the grey/red wire to it. I was not expecting a white/red there, but then again according to Bentley wiring daigram there should be a white/red wire on Auto and Manual (realized that after a second look) but it doesn't continue on the auto and seems to lead to T-10w connecter in plenum chamber (don't know where there this is) and end. 

Bentley Wiring for Clutch Vacuum Vent Valve Switch to pin 39 









Wiring on my Jetta Before 









Wiring on my Jetta after


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## swozniak4201 (Oct 8, 2009)

you show that your clutch pedal cruise borrows power from the old reverse light 12v under the dash. in the bentely it shows it being wired in series with the blue/black on the brake pedal switch. i noticed if i did not have my brake pedal switch connected, the cruise would not work. EVEN THOUGH THE CRUISE WIRE HAD 12V SINCE IT WAS CONNECTED BEFORE THE PLUG. some thoughts for you. and yeah that white red from your ecu ends at the plenumn connectors. 

* The auto ecu does not even look for a signal at pin 39, the only reason it was working is because it was counting on the interrupt signal from the brake pedal sensor* 
* LOOK where the clutch switch connects in series with the brake pedal switch on **A20** to 
T10a6and uses 12v from there. peel back some insulation on your blue/black brake pedal switch wire and use that. i bet it works. let me know***


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

swozniak4201 said:


> you show that your clutch pedal cruise borrows power from the old reverse light 12v under the dash. in the bentely it shows it being wired in series with the blue/black on the brake pedal switch. i noticed if i did not have my brake pedal switch connected, the cruise would not work. EVEN THOUGH THE CRUISE WIRE HAD 12V SINCE IT WAS CONNECTED BEFORE THE PLUG. some thoughts for you. and yeah that white red from your ecu ends at the plenumn connectors.
> 
> * The auto ecu does not even look for a signal at pin 39, the only reason it was working is because it was counting on the interrupt signal from the brake pedal sensor*
> * LOOK where the clutch switch connects in series with the brake pedal switch on **A20** to
> T10a6and uses 12v from there. peel back some insulation on your blue/black brake pedal switch wire and use that. i bet it works. let me know***


Thank you. I will try this ASAP. After looking at alphaseinor's write on TDICLUB, I notice somewhere he mentioned this. Thank you. Hopefully I'll have this going by next weeks trip home to the Bay Area


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

*Cruise Control is Good to Go!!!*

The cruise control is now working great. Thanks to swozniak4201's advice by splicing the brake light switch 12V wire (blue/black) to the Clutch Vacuum Vent Valve, I got the cruise control running. 

Works great now and the *write up and pics *are coming soon.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

*The Write Up is Finally Done. Hope this helps as much as others have helped me.*

Finally I start posting pics and a walkthrough(8 months later). Got a little time on my hands since I have Family Leave.

If your considering this, please not only read all the details in this write up but do some research and have the Bentley manual handy. Read up on the procedures in the manual. That’s where I got the majority of my info. I mainly used the Vwvortex, TDIclub, and others for ideas. I actually have been using the copy of Bentley from my local library. I just keep renewing it. I think I’m the only one who has checked it out in the last 2 years.

Lastly, I am not a professional so undertake this project at your own risk. I was successful with some setbacks, but as all of us DIY’s know mistakes can happen. In the end, it all worked out. And I’m sure there are better ways of doing this so please let me know if there should be any changes. I’d be happy to add it in. There isn’t just one way to get this done and we all may not have the same resources.

I'll start with the prep work I did the day before to get ready for the major work. Make sure you have a good 13 mm socket, because many bolts and nuts are this size. My was darn near warn by the end of this project. Good thing I have Craftsman so I got a new one for free. Another note for those of you that think I’m crazy. Yes, I did this without power or air tools. So it can be done.

Day 1

1.	I lubed up the shifter with lithium grease.








I also lubed up the point where the shifter cables attached to the transmission. This was recommended by the Bentley manual

2.	I then moved onto the transmission itself:
I replaced the pivot nut which the clutch fork pivots against and put a little moly grease on it per Bentley









3.	I placed the clutch fork securing clip on the pivot nut.









4.	And then goes on the new clutch fork. Make sure the clip comes through the hole in the clutch fork to ensure its secure.









5.	As instructed by Bentley I put a stop against the clutch fork by screwing in a bolt that was M10x40mmx1.5. This prevents the slave from becoming damaged when torque down the transmission mating bolts.

6.	Lightly tighten bolt
















7.	This is clutch pedal assembly with the over center spring removed. The seat (white) where the over center spring sits was broken and I put the new one in.









8.	Next I packed the CV joints on the manual axles with fresh CV Joint Moly Grease and then wrapped it with a plastic Ziploc bag and rubber band to keep dirt from getting in.












9.	I then prepared the car to be worked in the next day. Make sure to disconnect the negative battery cable before starting so as not to trigger any air bags or short any circuits.

10.	BEFORE LIFTING CAR, LOOSEN THE AXLE NUTS!!!!! YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO LOOSEN IF CAR IS OFF GROUND. A 30mm 12 pt socket is needed and a breaker or something larger because these are not easy to get









11.	First I put in jacks as high it could go with my small jack








Then I focused on removed the front end body parts to clear for working space
I started with the grill. The latch to open the hood is clip by two metal prongs. Pry them off with a flat head









12.	Once you have latch detached, just the grill off. It snaps back into place









13.	Then remove the driver’s side wheel well cover

















14.	Then I removed the whole bumper. It’s not necessary but it does give you a little more room to work with (I recommend it; every inch counts when getting the auto tranny out)

Remove the 6 bolts securing the bumper in the front (4 on top and 2 behind the left and right grills)

4 on top









Remove the small left and right side grill and there’s one bolt underneath each one (2 total)









15.	Remove the bottom front end of the passenger side wheel well that attaches to the bumper









16.	Before you pull the bumper off the left and right turn signal light bulbs need to be removed. They pop out.









17.	You should then be able to slide the bumper off









18.	Then remove the transmission drivers side dust cover with a flat head by prying off the washers which can be reused

















Once off the transmission oil cover is exposed
























That concluded my pre-work for the day and then I continued the next day



Day 2

I apologize if I am missing any steps and pictures. I didn’t post all this when it was fresh in my head, but if you any questions feel free to ask.

REMOVING PARTS ON AND AROUND AUTO TRANNY

19.	I removed the air intake and battery tray. And then all the electrical connecters from the Auto tranny.








You need to remove these conneceters: transmission Range switch, vehicle speed sensor (can used on manual tranny), valvebody connecter, and some other connecter with yellow, white, black wires. Hang these out of the way with zip ties or string.









20.	Drain the ATF to lighten the load and prevent a mess.

21.	Remove these hoses from the tranny oil cooler and have some rags or thick paper towel to catch some of the coolant that will spill. (no need to drain fluid unless you want to put new fluid in your system). Couple the hoses with a coupler you can find at the auto part store.








Couple the hoses with a coupler you can find at the auto part store.








I also removed the cooler. Use an allen wrench to take off the banjo bolts and lift it off. Remove all that you can to free up space, because taking out the auto tranny is hardest step.









22.	Unbolt the power steering line from the top of the tranny and the side. (pic shows bolt on side)








Unbolt the banjo bolt from the power steering pump and allow the fluid to drain. Then removed the bolt from the rack and pinion and plug the holes with a clean towel to prevent dirt from entering.

23.	Remove the starter next. Remove the electrical conncecters of the starter. There’s a hidden nut and bolt underneath the connecter on top. You’ll need an 13mm socket with an extension to remove it. Unbolt the long starter/tranny mating mating bolts and the power steering line bracket. Remove the starter. It should slide out easily. (Remember that it can’t be reused on the manual)









24.	Remove the shift cable (yellow) by unbolting the bracket on top of the tranny. Pop the shift selector off here (red).









25.	Bentley says Mark the ball joint/control arm bracket with paint or white out then unbolt the 3 bolts in order to remove the CV axles and free up room for tranny removal, but I was able to remove them both without doing this step. However it may make things easier from what I’ve heard on other threads.

26.	Unbolt the CV axle bolts (6 on each side). You’ll need a 12 pt torx bit. I found them at just about every auto part store (Pep Boys, AZ, Oreilly, etc). You attach a ½ in socket to the end of it or your impact gun








I had my friend step on the brake off and on while turning the axle and loosening each bolt.








Once the bolts are loosened slide the axles out of the hubs and remove (not interchangeable).

27.	Remove the Dog Bone mount. There are 4 bolts here (2 on the chassis and 2 on the tranny). Unbolt them all and remove the mount. These are strectch bolts and need to be replaced.








Dog Bone Mount removed









*SUPPORT ENGINE AND TRANNY REMOVAL*

28.	Place engine support over motor.
















Attach engine support on these mounts with chains and tighten chains with hanger bolts til engine is firmly supported.









29.	Remove the 3 nuts securing the torque converter to the driveplate. You can access them by removing the rubber plug (green arrow) on the right side of the differential and turning the crankshaft til each one is in sight to remove.









30.	You can now loosen the tranny frame mount bolts (2 on top). These are under lots torque (will require breaker bar, large socket wrench, or impact).








Now remove the 3 bolts holding transmission mount onto the tranny from the top.
Tranny-to-Engine mating bolts:
There a total of 8. 2 were already removed when removing the starter. Now there’s 3 16mm bolts, and 1 18mm bolt on the bottom and 2 18mm bolts on top.
Start with the top 2 bolts. Remove the combo bolt (red) nut and affix the ground wire somewhere out the way. Then the other one (yellow)








I used a jack with a tranny adapter so I removed the middle 16mm bolt (red)on the bottom since it would have been hard to get to otherwise. 
Angle the engine/tranny down another few inches to make room for removal.
Then I removed the others (green) once the tranny jack was supporting the tranny.








Don’t forget the 18mm mating bolt of the right side of the differential too.








Tranny Supported









Next is by far the hardest part of the job.
31.	Slide the tranny back as the input shaft comes out, being careful to make sure its supported by the jack. Once the shaft is clear of the engine angle the driver side of the tranny towards the back of the car and lower. Now it was a whole lot messier than I just describe. My friend and I kept working the tranny around until it finally fell out of there.
One thing I did do was take my breaker bar and prop it up against the engine to push the engine/tranny more towards the front of the car. The more you can do this (get creative and find your own way) the easier the removal will be. Some people, I read, kick the engine forward while allowing the tranny drop out.

















32.	Eventually I moved the tranny jack out of the way, since there wasn’t enough clearance for it to come all the way down. We wrapped the tranny with a tie down and lowered it slowly.
The beast removed.










*SHIFTER AND SHIFT CABLES:*

34.	Remove the exhaust pipe from manifold to right after the cat and O2 sensor. There’s brace there. Loosen it.
Now remove the 4 bolts holding the pipe to the manifold.








Pull the pipe out.








Above, the bottom of the shifter box is exposed (yellow). It has 2 bolts or nuts (I forget) on the bottom. You can remove these.









35.	Remove the star torx screws on each side of the foot well area.








Pop theshift knob off by pushing the button in and pulling the chrome sleeve down from the knob and then pull off.








Pop out the cigarette tray and remove this (green) screw.








Pop out rest of tray.








Unclip this metal bracket before taking center console out.








Pull out the console panel and pop off chrome cover.
















Take off these plastic pieces. Just pop/pry them off.
















Pry out this pin (red) by putting shifter in Park and pulling out with needle nose. Pinch these clips (green) with needle nose and pull shift lock cable out of shifter.








Another view with needle nose. Remove these two bolts (green) and pull the shifter out from underneath the car along with the cables.









36.	Take the manual shifter and bolt it up to the frame. It bolts in the same 4 spots as the auto shifter.








Pass the shift cables through the passage above the exhaust pipe and let them hang.








Replace the center console panel. Remove the plastic bracket that was around the old shifter in the console. Use the plastic bracket from the stick shifter and it pops in place.

37.	Replace the exhaust pipe and use the new gasket for the manifold to pipe.

38.	To completely remove the shift lock cable you must remove the steering wheel.
To remove the airbag you stick a flat head screw driver in the hole behind the wheel and pop off the fastener inside (refer to Bentley). Pic with airbag removed.
Remove center bolt with 12 pt socket. 








Don’t worry about marking the spot. There are stamped marks for realigning the wheel.








Pic of wheel after removal and hole (green) where you stick in screw driver.








Remove this panel to access ignition shift lock cable.








Here’s the cable








Put the car key into the ignition and turn all the way, pull out the clip holding the cable in place and pull out cable. Now you can weave the cable out.








When replacing the bolt use lock tite. The airbag pops back in place and don’t forget the electrical connecter for the airbag!

CLUTCH PEDAL AND CLUTCH HYDRAULIC LINE:

39.	Remove the paneling under the steering wheel and the relays panels are exposed. Remove the relay panel bracket and place out of the way.

40.	Pull this cut out off of the fire wall (this is why this swap works so well; no mods needed). Remove the rubber plug on the opposite engine compartment side.








You notice 3 unused black studs sticking out from the fire wall. This where you’ll mount the clutch pedal assembly.








Take your clutch pedal assembly and mount it on the studs. It tightens down with 3 13mm nuts.

41.	Then affix the master cylinder to fluid reservoir tube on the engine side to the master cylinder. Place a pinching clamp on the tube to keep fluid from leaking all over once it’s attached.
Quickly cut off the nipple on the fluid reservoir and then attach the tube.
Nippled before cut.








After tube is attached








You can attach the hydraulic line now since space is limited when the tranny is in and hang it out of the way.
42.	Attach the Blue and White Clutch Pedal switches to the assembly if not already.


BACK TO TRANNY:
43.	Remove the driveplate (6 bolts). Remove the old dust tin (green) and place the manual one over the studs. I had to buy a new access cover (at right side of pic). Don’t forget to attach. I recommend tapping the flywheel/driveplate bolt holes. When I put the flywheel back on the second time around, the bolt started to go in at an angle. I tapped it and then it went in smoothly








Now push flywheel onto crankshaft nub. The bolt orientation only goes on one way so no need to mark. In the pic, I hadn’t had the flywheel resurfaced (as you can see the burn marks), but after messing up the first time on this project, I did get it resurfaced. I and pretty much every mechanic highly recommend doing so.








I tightened the flywheel without a special by buying carburetor shims attaching them to bolts like this. (picture is of my Explorer)








Now, place the clutch disc with the alignment tool. Tighten down the pressure plate with new PP bolts and use Loc-Tite. Tighten the bolts in star pattern, a little bit at a time so that you don’t bend the plate as you tighten. Once tight, take out alignment tool.








Setup your tranny and ready it to go in. My buddy and I used a tied down to hoist the tranny up. Worked great to take the weight off so we could align it. Work it around until the input shaft full sits and the body of the engine and tranny fully mated.

















44.	Once tranny is on, hand tighten all mating bolts and then secure with torque wrench to finish. Attach the side mount with the 3 large side mounting stretch bolts (green) and also attach the black support bar that attaches to the mount/








Raise the engine/tranny up with the engine support or jack and up to the driver side mount. Secure it with the 2 stretch bolts on top. Make sure the mounts are lined up straight unlike this picture. I had to replace the bolts and realigned it again later.









45.	Attach the Dog Bone mount and tighten down with new stretch bolts (recommended replacement by Bentley)









46.	Slide the axle into the knuckle and loosely tighten your new axle nuts. Tighten the CV axle-to-differential bolts (the bolts are different from the automatic).









47.	Attach the new hydraulic line and secure with clip in slave cylinder and now remove the hose clamp on the other hose.
48.	Screw off the speed sensor cap from the auto tranny and screw it onto the manual speed sensor. Then drape the protective fire shield over it.
Speed Sensor Cap








Attached









49.	Secure shift cable bracket on top of tranny with 3 bolts.
50.	Secure shifter cable ends onto slider with new clips.
51.	Remove the bolt securing the clutch fork.

52.	Bolt in manual version power steering line (goes underneath tranny instead of above) with banjo bolts. Attach to bracket on starter and underneath tranny.
53.	Reattach wiring cluster to starter and ground strap onto the combo mating bolt.









*FLUIDS:*
54.	Use a 17mm allen socket to open the fill plug. Use a hose (got clear tube from Home Depot) with a funnel and pour in fresh 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Oil (Mobil 1).
















55.	I refilled power steering system with VW power steering fluid. Once car was started, I turned the wheels to extreme many times to expel air and kept topping off until there were no more air bubbles.
56.	Bleed the clutch as you would the brakes. MAKE SURE THE BOLT USED TO SECURE THE CLUTCH FORK IS REMOVED!!! The pressure release is on the slave cylinder. Add DOT 4 fluid only in the reservoir constantly to make sure the level does not get to low. Check for leaks. I had some and ended up having to buy all new hydraulic parts (master, clutch line, slave). Many recommend buying all new hydraulic parts anyways.

LOWER CAR:

57.	Replace all the exterior paneling, bumper, and grilles.
58.	Put tires back on and lower car to ground.
59.	Tighten the axle nuts with a breaker bar and large torque wrench according to the procedure:

Front axle nuts (follow step by step)
Vehicles with 12-point nut
200 Nm (148 ft-lb) then loosen 1/2 turn
Turn hub 180 degrees
50 Nm (37 ft-lb) + 60 degree

Vehicles with hex bolt
250 Nm (185 ft-lb) + 90 degrees
Loosen 1/2 turn.
Turn hub 180 degrees
250 Nm (185 ft-lb) + 90 degrees

60.	Shifter adjustment:
a.	Pull and twist the cable shifter end spring so it’s compressed into place
Spring decompressed








Spring Compressed








b.	Place a 5mm pin into these holes (red arrows) to line up the shifter for adjustment.








c.	Lock the L shaped Locking mechanism by pushing shift counter weight down and turning the L downward.








d.	Release the shifter cable ends and then remove the drill bit. Release the L lock by turning back into the upright position and your done.
Note: If your “L” lock is busted you’ll need to play with the adjustment and hold down shift weight while releasing cable ends.
Here’s a great video on this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tp9ggefOjAE&feature=player_embedded


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

*Write up continued*

*ELECTRICAL (The fun part):*

Now please do not start cutting the wires in your MK4 until you have carefully looked over wiring diagrams and understood them. Don’t be fooled by my layouts. I researched for 3 months in my spare time for this project. You don’t want send 12 volts to somewhere it doesn’t belong and end up spending another $200 on computers or relays or not mention the hours spent trying to find what you shorted.

Also every year is different and may or will have not only different color wire but different pins or places they attached to. PM me and I might be able to help you. Now if your car is a 2001 Jetta 2.0 with a AZG or AVH engine code then you can follow this but otherwise you’ll need to look up the wiring charts.

Also if you’re in a hurry to get the started and want to work on the cruise control and ECM swap later you can skip steps that are related to that and do them at a later time. I actually waited seven months before I swapped the ECM since I had to have SMOG done. You’ll have a check engine light because the Auto ECM can’t find the TCM until you swap in a manual one or recode the ECM.

61.	Back up Light switch
a.	Find the connecter from the Transmission Range Switch. This is where you’ll find the wires for the back up light. Cut the wires off the connecter. Your only going to use 2 wires here.
b.	Take your connecter salvaged from the donor
c.	Splice the Green/black and the blue/yellow wire to the 2 wires on the connecter.








d.	Connect this to the transmission reverse light switch. Your done here.

62.	Put Back Intake and battery tray
63.	PNP Relay (175) to Starting Interlock Relay (53), Reverse lights and Clutch Pedal Starter switch, and Cruise Control switch
a.	Remove the driver side dash panels underneath the steering wheel (fuse panel, 2 plastic and 1 metal)
b.	Remove the plastic relay brackets by removing the 2 nuts ( green) on each side. Pull this off and remove the PNP (Park Neutral Position) relay, labeled 175, from the bracket.








c.	Unclip the blue connecter and clip the wires necessary according to your diagram. On mine I clipped the blue/yellow wire, yellow/red, grey/red, and green/black wires. I also clipped the blue/black wire while leaving some length. I also clipped the orange or brown wire which is a ground.








d.	Splice the wires according to your diagram.
i. Splice the blue/yellow wire from the reverse light switch with blue/black leading to the reverse lights. 
ii. Splice the length of blue/black from the blue connecter with the grey/red from the white clutch pedal starter switch. 
iii. Splice the other Clutch Pedal Starter Switch wire with the ground wire.









iv. Splice the grey/red wire that was connected to the blue connecter with the white/red wire from the Blue CVVV (Clutch Vacuum Vent Valve) Switch.
v. Use a quick splice and splice the blue/black wire from the green brake pedal light switch with the blue/black wire from the blue CVVV switch. (Note: my original wiring diagram was wrong. This wiring is different.And also the curise control is not crucial to getting the car started if you want to wait on this one)
Quick Splice with donor wire to attach the 2 blue/black wires








Quick Splice










e.	Clip the blue connecter back in.
f.	Replace the 175 relay with your 53 relay
g.	Check for continuity on the wiring. The blue switch should have continuity when the pedal is up and no continuity when pushed down about 1 inch. If not, twist off the Blue switch and adjust the plunger up and down by clicking it up and down. Double check your wiring.
h.	Replace the dash panels now.

Pic of the clutch pedal switches. Blue and White.









64.	TCM Removal and ECM Swap with Ross Tech (Note: This part can be done later and only cars with engine code AZG and AVH need to have the ECM swapped. Others can be recoded, like AEG. Refer to VAG COM instructions at end)
a.	Remove the wiper arms, plenum comer, and the cabin air filter and tray.








b.	Remove TCM. Secured by 2 nuts. You have wiggle it out of there.








c.	Disconnect connecter








d.	Remove ECM. Secured by 2 nuts and car alarm horn, which is attached, has a connecter which needs to be removed. Remove ECM connecters.
e.	Remove old auto ECM from bracket and replace with manual ECM. Wiggle back into the plenum. This may take a little finagling. Reconnect car alarm horn.
f. Wiring/Splicing time
i. On the TCM connecter find the grey/red wire (remember may be different on your year and model) that has continuity with the grey/red wire spliced onto the CVVV switch. Cut it at the TCM connecter.








ii. Peel back the insulation along the wiring loom until the grey/red wire is near the large ECM connecter.
iii. Cut the zip tie and unsnap the wire cover.








iv. Locate your wire that the CVVV switch will connect to. On my it is pin 39 on the ECM. There was a white/red wire in that place, but on my car this ends at a connecter and does not operate anything so I cut it at the red arrow. Still check your diagrams to make sure.








v. I spliced the grey/red wire here








vi. Make sure the connecting pin and slots are clear of debris. Mine had a piece of rubber in it and the cruise was not working until I remove everything again and found this in there.
vii. Wrap the exposed wire in electric tape to keep it from being exposed.








viii. Replace the plenum cover and wipers

65.	Wire Removal
a.	You remove the excess wiring under the hood and in the plenum, but it is not completely necessary. But make sure it won’t get in the way of the moving parts like the fans or create any grounds where 12V wires may be still be live.

66.	*VAG-COM Instructions (via Ross Tech)*
a.	Immobilizer for ECM swap (wont start with new ECM unless immobilizer is adapted)
i. [Select]
[17 - Instruments]
[Adaption - 10]
Leave channel at "00"
[Read]
[Save]
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
[Exit]
Turn ignition OFF for 15 seconds. Start vehicle.

b.	Throttle Body Alignment
Turn the key on but do not start the car.
[Select]
[01 - Engine]
[Measuring Blocks - 08]
Enter Group 060
[Go!]
[Switch to basic settings]
Once you do this you will see the top right display say ADP RUN. The TB adaptation is being done as soon as you switch to basic settings. You will see the values change and hear the TB cycle for the first few seconds then it will stop. Leave it in Basic Settings for about 30 seconds.
[Switch to Meas. Blocks] button and you're all set.
Be sure not to touch the accelerator and make sure the engine is NOT running when you do this!

c.	Cruise Control Activation
i. Turn the key on but do not start the car
[Select]
[01 - Engine]
[Login - 11]
Enter 11463 to activate cruise control
[Do It!]
d.	Recoding ECM to manual settings. 
(Note: Depends on your year and model. All I know is that AZG and AVH engine code engines from 2001-2002 years can’t be recoded. Before those years they can be recoded. After, I’m unsure)
Turn the key on but do not start the car
[Select]
[01 - Engine]
[07-Coding]
Enter 00001
[Do it!]

The Soft. Coding field should read 00001 when done.



That is it. Please reply with any suggestions to add anything.

Important Torque Specs:
Transmission-to-engine
M12X55 (3) 59 ft-lb
M12X150 (2) 59 ft-lb
M10X50 (3) 44ft-lb
2 top transmission mount bolts 74 ft-lb
Black Mount Crossbar (top of tranny) (2) 18 ft-lb
Dog Bone Mount
Rear (2) 15 ft-lb + ¼ turn
Bottom (2) 30 ft-lb + ¼ turn
Slave cylinder 18 ft-lb
CV Axle joint 30 ft-lb
CV Axle boot shield 26 ft-lb
Shift cable bracket 18 ft-lb
Selector cable bolt to transmission lever 18 ft-lb
Side Transmission Mount (3) 37 ft-lb + ¼ turn
Shift box (4) 18 ft-lb
Exhaust Pipe Collar 30 ft-lb
Manifold-to-pipe (4) 30 ft-lb

Clutch Pedal
Assembly to wall (3) 18 ft-lb
Brake to clutch bracket (2) 18 ft-lb
Inside Tranny
Ball Stud 18 ft-lb
Pressure Plate 15 ft-lb (tighten diagonally gradually)
Flywheel: 1st 22 ft-lb, 2nd 44 ft-lb, 3rd ¼ turn
Steering wheel bolt 37 ft-lb
Power Steering Line Banjo Bolts (2) 22 ft-lb





These are some other good references that will be useful:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=151516

http://www.kansascitytdi.com/

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a5/transmission-removal-VW-Jetta.htm

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-VR6-Transmission-Removal-Clutch-Replacement&

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=223085&page=8


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

Very nice documentation. You should edit your first post and put the picture documentation there.

I do have to say, I've enjoyed following your trials and tribulations on this project and I have to say nice job. 

Here's my comments that I think others should do differently other than what you did.

Dont pull the bumper cover. Its totally not necessary.

Remove the exhaust prior to pulling trans, or at least disconnect it from the manifold. Because with the exhaust loose the trans will move forward and the trans comes "out" of the car much easier. 

Also dont disassemble the steering column. The cable that you removed doesn't need to be removed. You can just leave it there inside the console.


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## swozniak4201 (Oct 8, 2009)

glad you got it!!! yeah brian (alpha) is the man. i help out at his shop when he calls me. we finished up a swap on a 1.8t. fought the immo for about a hour. saw a diesel so overheated it had sucked some melted plastic up in the oil pickup....ran for a week without coolant and still ran after that...albeit no oil pressure. i couldnt be happier with the swap on my VR6 anyway, hope your enjoying your 2.0. helped a guy with the a/c on one of those (2.0) last week.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

Update. Car has continued to run great after swap (5,000 miles) After a wash and a wax, it looks great too.


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## swozniak4201 (Oct 8, 2009)

awesome! i have about 3500 on mine now, time for a oil change. i today myself i was gonna stay 100 stock, but i splurged on some bad*ss engine mounts, short shifter and a lighter flywheel. i must say, sure am glad i did. the shifter and mounts make it shift like a freakin dream!


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## boertje (Jan 9, 2011)

Absolutely great write up and great pics! I just did a 5 to 6 speed swap in my bug TDI and 2 01M to 02M swaps in my golf and jetta, both TDIs. I also did a write up on the auto to 02M swap and I find that your pics are killer! Perhaps I will include some of them in mine and credit you for them if that is OK. 

I did not remove any fenders myself and did not remove the interlock ignition cable. I just laid them aside to the right side of the shifter assembly with the unused wirings and zip tied them together. 

Again, great job!


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

boertje said:


> Absolutely great write up and great pics! I just did a 5 to 6 speed swap in my bug TDI and 2 01M to 02M swaps in my golf and jetta, both TDIs. I also did a write up on the auto to 02M swap and I find that your pics are killer! Perhaps I will include some of them in mine and credit you for them if that is OK.
> 
> I did not remove any fenders myself and did not remove the interlock ignition cable. I just laid them aside to the right side of the shifter assembly with the unused wirings and zip tied them together.
> 
> Again, great job!


 Yeah. Go ahead use the pics. The shift interlock was unnecessary but I hoping to sell it for a few bucks and also I like to clean things up as much as possible. I just like to be thorough


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## boertje (Jan 9, 2011)

Thanks! 
I am on tdiclub with the same name as here. 
Here is a link to what I did for the TDI on the auto to 6 speed manual swap for the Bug and MKIV. 
Auto to 6 speed swap for the MKIV


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

*FYI: COST and PARTS NEEDED*

Many of you ask me how much did this all cost me. Well here's my rough explaination. Its not exact but in the ballpark. 

Everything I needed (parts wise) is listed in the thread. Go to page 2. post #43. All parts purchased cost me about ~$1700-1800. After selling a lot of the old parts in which I made about $600, The end cost was about $1100-1200. A lot better than any auto tranny work that would have been done by a professional. Plus all I spoke to said they wouldn't guarantee the job because the 01M is notoriously unreliable. 

Yes you can save the tranny as CoolAirVW always points out but I didn't want to take the chance. I do have to add that I spent $500 on a new valve body and wiring harness which didn't solve the problem since the codes kept sending back solenoid issues. The tranny shops I visited all recommended that before a complete rebuild if I didn't want to spend thousands first. I figured it was worth it since I new I could sell it fast.


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## boertje (Jan 9, 2011)

To add to that, for the auto to 6 speed swap on the TDI where the 6 speed comes from the UK and is for the diesel, the cost was $2000 on parts delivered. Using a new clutch is 700 more. The used clutch i got from the UK was in perfect condition so I used it. Cost me about 50 bux for a clutch pedal assembly complete. Labor furnished by me.
On my bug where I swapped out the 5 speed, I sold the 5 speed for 1100 so the job cost me about $1000. My clutch went out so I was forced to do the job anyway so I did the swap. Boy i am sure happy I did that job. The car is so much nicer to drive!


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## sp1249 (Feb 2, 2005)

Thanks for all the info on the cruise control wiring. As mentioned before, the wire that goes to pin 39 on the ECU actually dead ends in a white 10 pin connector under the plastic cover in the plenum area. I was able to connect a wire from there to the clutch switch, therefore not opening up the connector for the ECU. On my '02 Jetta wagon (2.0 gas), that particular wire is colored white w/red stripe and is in position #4 in the white connector T10w.
Definitely enjoying my 5 speed Jetta now!
Thanks again!





nosborn94 said:


> The cruise control is now working great. Thanks to swozniak4201's advice by splicing the brake light switch 12V wire (blue/black) to the Clutch Vacuum Vent Valve, I got the cruise control running.
> 
> Works great now and the *write up and pics *are coming soon.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

sp1249 said:


> Thanks for all the info on the cruise control wiring. As mentioned before, the wire that goes to pin 39 on the ECU actually dead ends in a white 10 pin connector under the plastic cover in the plenum area. I was able to connect a wire from there to the clutch switch, therefore not opening up the connector for the ECU. On my '02 Jetta wagon (2.0 gas), that particular wire is colored white w/red stripe and is in position #4 in the white connector T10w.
> Definitely enjoying my 5 speed Jetta now!
> Thanks again!


Nice. I thought about doing that but it was just easier for me to use the gray red wire and splice it. It takes a little extra work to get to that T10w connecter. But it would be a much cleaner way of doing it. Thanks for the info


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## aoj2108 (Sep 12, 2003)

Sorry to revive a dead thread but I just completed a 01M to 4 cylinder 02A swap and this thread was incredibly helpful. The thread primarily deals with the Mk4 but my swap was a 3.5 Cabrio which primarily has Mk3 internals but lots of Mk4 stuff mixed in like an immobilizer and wiring and such.

I had to do some of my own research and I have a Bentley manual and VAGCOM so any Mk3.5 or even Mk3 guys watching this thread that wanna swap out their auto trans shoot me a PM for specific information pertaining to these cars. The thread is incredibly helpful but the information on wiring and things of that nature would not be the same.

If there is one thing I would add to this thread is that you guys should make sure to inform people that before you reprogram your ECU from Auto to Manual you have to first input the LOGIN code BEFORE you try to change the transmission coding otherwise it will not register the change. The LOGIN code can be found in the last couple of pages in your Bentley Manual). After the coding you should clear out all of the auto transmission codes that came up with the scan and the check engine light will stay off. Thanks for the help guys :wave:


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

aoj2108 said:


> Sorry to revive a dead thread but I just completed a 01M to 4 cylinder 02A swap and this thread was incredibly helpful. The thread primarily deals with the Mk4 but my swap was a 3.5 Cabrio which primarily has Mk3 internals but lots of Mk4 stuff mixed in like an immobilizer and wiring and such.
> 
> I had to do some of my own research and I have a Bentley manual and VAGCOM so any Mk3.5 or even Mk3 guys watching this thread that wanna swap out their auto trans shoot me a PM for specific information pertaining to these cars. The thread is incredibly helpful but the information on wiring and things of that nature would not be the same.
> 
> If there is one thing I would add to this thread is that you guys should make sure to inform people that before you reprogram your ECU from Auto to Manual you have to first input the LOGIN code BEFORE you try to change the transmission coding otherwise it will not register the change. The LOGIN code can be found in the last couple of pages in your Bentley Manual). After the coding you should clear out all of the auto transmission codes that came up with the scan and the check engine light will stay off. Thanks for the help guys :wave:


No worries on reviving the thread. If it's still helping people like you and then it's still alive. That's awesome that it could help you even though you have a Cabrio. As far as I know for MK4 cars and the auto to manual code issue, I remember there was no need for a login code and it only worked with certain years and engine types. But what you talking about probably is just for MK3s since the Bentley you're reading is probably for MK3s. Thanks for the input and keeping the thread alive. Its helped many.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

For those concerned about longevity in this project. I still love our Jetta and 30,000 miles after I did the swap, it's running great with no problems as far as the tranny goes. Gotta love Vortex.


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## Idream2.0speed (Dec 31, 2006)

So I'm doing this on my 2001 AEG... great write up btw. Should be a D.I.Y. If I'm reading my bentley correctly as far as wiring the CVVV part, I can just cut the white/yellow wire from pin #48 that goes to my Brake Pedal switch. I can take the side that comes from pin #48 and splice it to the white/red wire on my CVVV and connect the other side to the other wire on the CVVV. Basically wiring the CVVV and Brake Pedal switch in a series but I dont have to even cut anything at the ECM harness, just at the Brake Pedal switch?

Oh yeah.. My Bentley diagram is 44/2 on page 97-417. Page 1577 in Adobe.


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## Idream2.0speed (Dec 31, 2006)

Anyone?

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

Idream2.0speed said:


> So I'm doing this on my 2001 AEG... great write up btw. Should be a D.I.Y. If I'm reading my bentley correctly as far as wiring the CVVV part, I can just cut the white/yellow wire from pin #48 that goes to my Brake Pedal switch. I can take the side that comes from pin #48 and splice it to the white/red wire on my CVVV and connect the other side to the other wire on the CVVV. Basically wiring the CVVV and Brake Pedal switch in a series but I dont have to even cut anything at the ECM harness, just at the Brake Pedal switch?
> 
> Oh yeah.. My Bentley diagram is 44/2 on page 97-417. Page 1577 in Adobe.



FOR 2001 AEG:
Yes. You are correct. Your CVVV should be in series with the Brake Pedal Switch according to the diagram. For the original automatic setup a lilac/blue wire comes straight from the ECM at pin #48 and through a connecter (T10e/5) it becomes white/yellow, and as you said continues into the Brake Pedal Switch. You will cut the white/yellow wire and place the CVVV between the 2 white/yellow wire ends. 

This should get that cruise control working. Let me know how it goes. I found these very useful when splicing wires btw:









Also refer to post #133 for reference but remember yours is a little different. Mine is spliced in series like yours.


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## Idream2.0speed (Dec 31, 2006)

Cool. Thank you very much.

Sent from my Barnes & Noble Nook Tablet using Tapatalk 2


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## Delta_co (Oct 4, 2012)

I'm looking at your wiring diagrams/Bentley pages and lucky for me they are the same as the AWW 1.8T pages in my Bentley. Given that even the wire colors appear to be the same, what is your recommendation for the CVVV wiring to make the cruise work? I remember reading that you adjusted some things after you were finished, but I didn't quite follow that part. Thanks for the great write up.


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## Idream2.0speed (Dec 31, 2006)

So only issue is that I haven't been able to get my cruise working. I have used the vag-com to test every switch involved etc and gotten nowhere. I also have done a TB adaptation with no success. A friend was telling me that I might need to rewire my speed sensor but I dunno about that. I have a 01 2.0 AEG so I thought things would be simple. 06A 906 018 BG is my ECU part number.


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## brettpotts89 (Dec 3, 2009)

I had to wire a speed sensor on my trans. I didn't see it being done in the thread I read to do my swap. I looked up the wiring in the Bentley manual and found where to run everything. I can't tell you right now wether or not that is your problem but your friend was right about the speed sensor needing to wire it up. I personally haven't finished after a year and a half the cruise switch because of lack of motivation.


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## Idream2.0speed (Dec 31, 2006)

brettpotts89 said:


> I had to wire a speed sensor on my trans. I didn't see it being done in the thread I read to do my swap. I looked up the wiring in the Bentley manual and found where to run everything. I can't tell you right now wether or not that is your problem but your friend was right about the speed sensor needing to wire it up. I personally haven't finished after a year and a half the cruise switch because of lack of motivation.


 By wire the switch wdym? Bc the auto has two vss's and I used the connector that's connects in with the throttle body stuff as well but not sure if the other one had relevance with cruise control also. My speedo works fine and I have no cels but I'm just lost.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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## brettpotts89 (Dec 3, 2009)

There are two switches on the clutch pedal that need to be wired in. One for safety so you can't turn on the car without pressing the pedal in. The other is so cruise disengages when you press the pedal in. There is one speed sensor on the transmission I don't know know the others on a 2.0.


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## Idream2.0speed (Dec 31, 2006)

Yeah the autos have a vehicle speed sensor and a transmission speed sensor both say they go to the TCM. Bentley doesn't really say much more.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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## brettpotts89 (Dec 3, 2009)

The speed sensor on the transmission needs to be wired to the ECM.


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## Idream2.0speed (Dec 31, 2006)

Copy. Just can't really find that info in the Bentley.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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## brettpotts89 (Dec 3, 2009)

Ill find the info you need in the Bentley and send it to you


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## Idream2.0speed (Dec 31, 2006)

OK. Thank you. I've looked and looked and found nothing on AEG.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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## JigenVW (Feb 1, 2003)

I recently completed a 5 speed swap on my 99.5 Jetta, but I can't quite figure out what to do with the TCM.

The full swap was simple and quite straightforward. Everything functions as it should. Reverse lights, clutch switch...it drives perfect. The problem I'm having though, is that when I scan the car with VCDS, I get fault codes in reference to the auto transmission being MIA. My question is, any input on how to get rid of these fault codes? I never did any wiring around the TCM because the car doesn't have cruise control. I did unplug the TCM after I recoded the ECU. But still, fault codes. In my area, any found stored codes on an OBD2 vehicle, automatically fails emissions.

-Sean


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

You have to swap the computer with one from a manual car. Or maybe find a tuner who can help such as www.malonetuning.com


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## Stangperf03 (Jun 18, 2014)

nosborn94 said:


> The wiring will be different in the 2000 model. Let me know if you need help finding the diagram for your car. It will be different in your compared to my 2001 Jetta.
> 
> *Is yours a TDI 1.9 or a 2.0?*


You wouldn't happen to feel like rescuing me in telling me which one it would be for my 02 mk4 1.8t. Thought mine was #19 to 66 but I'm back on here trying to figure out my a$$ from a hole in the ground. And big thanks for the help on the relay #53


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## The_GTi_Art (Jun 3, 2005)

http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/517/Boertje_Auto_to_6_spd_manual_swap_and_wiring_instructions.pdf

this should help


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## scarabY2k (Feb 27, 2007)

So i'm trying to get this pin 39 issue resolved.
On my 2000 1.8t beetle APH, the Bentley says 39 is the CVVV- red and white wire. I have *nothing* in pin #39. The only red/white wire I have is in Pin#48 which is T10/8. Can I use pin #48 instead, since there is not red/white wire or anything else in pin #39? Or is there another end-around.

Thanks


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## scarabY2k (Feb 27, 2007)

BUMP


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

scarabY2k said:


> So i'm trying to get this pin 39 issue resolved.
> On my 2000 1.8t beetle APH, the Bentley says 39 is the CVVV- red and white wire. I have *nothing* in pin #39. The only red/white wire I have is in Pin#48 which is T10/8. Can I use pin #48 instead, since there is not red/white wire or anything else in pin #39? Or is there another end-around.
> 
> Thanks


You right in that there should not be a wire at pin 39. Your going to connect a wire to that pin that routes to the CVVV. I could be wrong but I believe the red white wire is present in an original manual car not one that was originally auto. If you notice in my diagram I took a wire that originally went from the Park Nuetral Relay to the TCM and used that to connect pin 39 to CVVV. 

But remember that my car is a 2.0 so your wiring could be different. 

Reference this guys thread. It's where I started and I think he had a 1.8 so the wiring might be correct but make sure you double check that you have correct engine code to reference in Bentley.


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## scarabY2k (Feb 27, 2007)

nosborn94 said:


> You right in that there should not be a wire at pin 39. Your going to connect a wire to that pin that routes to the CVVV. I could be wrong but I believe the red white wire is present in an original manual car not one that was originally auto. If you notice in my diagram I took a wire that originally went from the Park Nuetral Relay to the TCM and used that to connect pin 39 to CVVV.
> 
> But remember that my car is a 2.0 so your wiring could be different.
> 
> Reference this guys thread. It's where I started and I think he had a 1.8 so the wiring might be correct but make sure you double check that you have correct engine code to reference in Bentley.


That's the oddity my friend. It's odd that my Bentley calls for #39 for my car (2000 1.8t), but there's no wire there. The only red/white wire on my connector, is pin #48, which is T10/8....gotta love Volkswagen 

Per your instructions, I found the grey/red wire at the Park Neutral Relay, and achieved continuity with the grey/red wire at the TCM. So from your comments, I get that Grey/Red wire from the TCM and add it to pin 39 in the ECM, correct? As I look at your diagram, that's what it's looking like. 

And thanks for nursing me along. Blessings to ya!


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## scarabY2k (Feb 27, 2007)

*Suggestion*

May I suggest on post #19 to change the wording on your drawn schematic, so say or convey *"complete"* wiring diagram (or something like that), instead of the currently worded "proposed". It gives one the impression that the diagram is an incomplete work, leaving one waiting for the final solution. The little things make all the difference my friend. Not trying to be nit-picky and such. Guess I'm one that wants to be sure on things. 

And again, mad mad props for such a great DIY write-up. I'm almost done with this project and couldn't have done it without you. If ever I get to meet you, BBQ lunch is on me!


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## scarabY2k (Feb 27, 2007)

The part circled is the shifter bracket, correct? But where is it located?
Sorry for the dumb question.... I got the parts in dribs and drabs and don't have this part. Just need to know where to find it.
Thanks.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

scarabY2k said:


> May I suggest on post #19 to change the wording on your drawn schematic, so say or convey *"complete"* wiring diagram (or something like that), instead of the currently worded "proposed". It gives one the impression that the diagram is an incomplete work, leaving one waiting for the final solution. The little things make all the difference my friend. Not trying to be nit-picky and such. Guess I'm one that wants to be sure on things.
> 
> And again, mad mad props for such a great DIY write-up. I'm almost done with this project and couldn't have done it without you. If ever I get to meet you, BBQ lunch is on me!


Glad it could help. I bummed off everyone elses threads too when I did mine. There wasn't actually another thorough thread for the 2.0 at the time. Plenty on the 1.8 so I used that as reference and had to figure out a lot myself and from many others who helped online. I did like 2-3 months of research before starting.

The bracket does go with the shifter. I honestly don't remember where but I believe its bracket that secure the shifter in place. I was able to find a Border Patrol impounded Golf with all the parts so I took everything that was attached to the essential pieces. Just hit me if any other questions. CoolAirVW is a really helpful guy too. He gave me lots of advice.


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

scarabY2k said:


> The part circled is the shifter bracket, correct? But where is it located?
> Sorry for the dumb question.... I got the parts in dribs and drabs and don't have this part. Just need to know where to find it.
> Thanks.


In the pic from this post, you can see where the bracket goes. I forget whether the auto bracket is the same as the manual but it might worth a shot to see if it fits there so you don't have go source one. I think the bracket holds the plastic console cover down.


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## Joefech (Jun 13, 2014)

Awesome thread to which I've been able to follow for 99% but the last part I need is killing me
Have an '02 1.8t awp and purchased the "HS" ecu and sent to sos diagnostics for immobilizer programming

Ecu allows it to crank but there's no spark or fuel

They said they tried the same software on an '05 and it did the same thing
Runs great with the "HF" auto ecu but the engine light is on due to it looking for the auto

I can't re-register in ct if that light is on. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!


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## scarabY2k (Feb 27, 2007)

nosborn94 said:


> In the pic from this post, you can see where the bracket goes. I forget whether the auto bracket is the same as the manual but it might worth a shot to see if it fits there so you don't have go source one. I think the bracket holds the plastic console cover down.


Cool deal man.Thanks for clearing that up.
My bug still has the bracket, so I'm running with what I've got.
Thanks.


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## sKiLLsKiLLz (Apr 20, 2015)

*2005 VW Jetta GLI 1.8t 5 speed auto trans*

I bought my jetta and within the first 1000 miles had to rebuild the engine. 7000$ later I go to pick the car up and now the transmission won't go into 4th or 5th gear. I'm in serious doubt there was anything wrong with it before the shop had their hands on it. I'm looking to possibly do an auto to manual swap and was wondering if you successfully swapped yours and if you did what the parts list I need is. I like planning and don't want to jump into this and find out last second that I missed something that is needed.


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## scarabY2k (Feb 27, 2007)

Big thanks for this DIY!
The install is complete. The only bugaboo is getting the shifter cables to do what they do- can't seem to get the shift gates aligned right. Other than that, the electronics seem to be working fine. I've got reverse lights and the once non-existent cruise control dash light lights up now

The worst is over. No more O1m autotragic trans. 

Thanks again!


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

scarabY2k said:


> Big thanks for this DIY!
> The install is complete. The only bugaboo is getting the shifter cables to do what they do- can't seem to get the shift gates aligned right. Other than that, the electronics seem to be working fine. I've got reverse lights and the once non-existent cruise control dash light lights up now
> 
> The worst is over. No more O1m autotragic trans.
> ...


Not sure if you figured out the shifter cable adjustment yet but here is the process I used via YouTube from DieselGeek.com

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sheTKD03hmo


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## scarabY2k (Feb 27, 2007)

nosborn94 said:


> Not sure if you figured out the shifter cable adjustment yet but here is the process I used via YouTube from DieselGeek.com
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sheTKD03hmo


Thanks for the video post. That was my first resource.
Yes, I figured the shift issue out. Since I bought the swap parts in dribs and drabs, some parts were missing. The missing parts that caused the shifting problem, we're the circlips that hold the cables firm, on the cable bracket, atop the trans. This caused the excessive slop in shifting and misdirected shift pattern. Got the circlips from a salvage yard, popped them in, she's shifting in all gears, silky smooth.

Thanks again for such an awesome DIY. You saved me a load of money, and no more O1m aggrivation.


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## LordGunner (Sep 24, 2015)

*Would This Work?*



nosborn94 said:


> I did a continuity check of the wiring and this is what mine turned out to be compared to GdB or alphaseinor
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Would this wiring still work on my 2002 Jetta TDI that I'm swapping the auto for the 02J (6 Speed)?


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

I would definitely double check the Bentley. The principal change over will likely be the same but you need to check for your color coding on the wiring since mine is a 2.0 (and still going by the way😀) and yours is a TDI. I referenced a 1.9 diagram and had to recheck the Bentley diagrams for mine. It was both different PIN numbers and different colored wires.


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## Jetta A4 Variant (Jan 18, 2013)

I just completed this swap on my 2001 wagon with a 2.0 AZG engine, but here in mexico the jetta i got my 2j0 trans from did not come with the clutch switch from factory. And my wagon does not have cruise control. And i just did the reverse ligths and they work but when i turn the key nothing happens :/ i read on page 6 and followed everything but havent touched the wiring because i dont have the clutch switch. Do i need to do wirering in order to get my wagon to crack up?


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

It won't start until you get the clutch switch. The switch tells the computer that the clutch is disengaged so that it won't grind out the clutch during the start. Find the switch at the junk yard or order online.


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## Jetta A4 Variant (Jan 18, 2013)

https://vimeo.com/166835482https://vimeo.com/166835838

Got it to run without the clutch switch. Your thread helped alot  

Enviado desde mi GT-P5210 mediante Tapatalk


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## theleoatkinson (Jun 23, 2016)

*Wiring*

will this wiring work with all mk4 2.0 year models? I plan on doing the same swap on my 2003 2.0 8v and was curious if the wiring is the same on all mk4 2.0l models


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## theleoatkinson (Jun 23, 2016)

*Will this work on all mk4 2.0l models*



nosborn94 said:


> I would definitely double check the Bentley. The principal change over will likely be the same but you need to check for your color coding on the wiring since mine is a 2.0 (and still going by the way😀) and yours is a TDI. I referenced a 1.9 diagram and had to recheck the Bentley diagrams for mine. It was both different PIN numbers and different colored wires.





Will the wiring work for all mk4 2.0 8v models?


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## theleoatkinson (Jun 23, 2016)

Will this wiring work on all mk4 Jetta year models? Example 2003


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## low.lyfe.jetta (Feb 24, 2016)

*need help with trans swap*

So I'm about to do the same thing. I have a 1.8 with the tiptronic 5-speed and it recently went out. I'm looking for a complete parts list for the swap. Everything that is needed to get the car running. Id' really appreciate the help. Thanks!


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## Streetfighter_rider (Oct 14, 2016)

I have a 2004 Golf 2.0 BEV. 
Looking to do the auto to manual swap. 
Can my ECM be rocoded for manual or do I have to replace it?
I'm probably going to purchase a donor vehicle and use the parts I need from there, instead of sourcing from a scrap yard. 
I have been advised to get a TDI 5spd as the gear ratios are better for gas mileage. My only concern is would it be easier to adapt the new tranny if I had a 2.0L donor vehicle since all the components would be more similar to mine? (TCM, other various parts) 
Any help would be greatly appreciated!


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## Mk4Mr. (Sep 5, 2017)

I know this is an old thread, but it is exactly where I am right now. Is there any way that I can view these images? None of them will open. I'm doing the identical swap, with the AZG and everything!


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

*Bummer*



Mk4Mr. said:


> I know this is an old thread, but it is exactly where I am right now. Is there any way that I can view these images? None of them will open. I'm doing the identical swap, with the AZG and everything!


I'm sorry but photobucket changed their setup and now makes you pay to embed photos into the thread. If I have some time I'll try to some images back in there by downloading and uploading the photos


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## nosborn94 (Feb 7, 2010)

*Photos*

Here are the photos all at once. Good thing I kept the photo albums organized. Click the links to go to them.

Valvebody teardown
http://s145.photobucket.com/user/nosborn94/slideshow/ValveBody%20Repair

Inventory Needed for job
http://s145.photobucket.com/user/nosborn94/slideshow/Jetta%20Manual%20Swap/Inventory]http://s145.photobucket.com/user/nosborn94/slideshow/Jetta%20Manual%20Swap/Inventory

Pre-Work
http://s145.photobucket.com/user/nosborn94/slideshow/Jetta%20Manual%20Swap/Pre%20work

First Day Work
http://s145.photobucket.com/user/nosborn94/slideshow/Jetta%20Manual%20Swap/First%20Day%20Work

Second Day Work
http://s145photobucket.com/user/nosborn94/slideshow/Jetta%20Manual%20Swap/Second%20Day%20Work

Auto Shifter Removal
http://s145.photobucket.com/user/nosborn94/slideshow/Jetta%20Manual%20Swap/Auto%20Shifter%20Removal

Cruise Control ECM and Wiring
http://s145.photobucket.com/user/nosborn94/slideshow/Jetta%20Manual%20Swap/Cruise%20Control%20ECM%20and%20Wiring

Other Important Photos
http://s145.photobucket.com/user/nosborn94/slideshow/Jetta%20Manual%20Swap


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## Ivan_ (Feb 5, 2019)

*DBC to DBW*

Sorry for reviving an old thread, but I'm in the process of collecting everything I need for this swap and have some questions. I have acquired a transmission that was drive by cable and was wondering what I have to replace in order for it to work on my drive by wire 2000 AEG 2.0...

Also, havent researched much into the electrical bit as that can be done later but I was wondering maybe if you know off the top of your head if the wiring diagram is the same for the AEG?  but from what Ive collected I dont need to replace my ECU since it is an AEG and can be reprogrammed.

Thanks in advance!


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## Ivan_ (Feb 5, 2019)

*To anyone with an AEG*

After following the guide in this thread I kept receiving a code for "module incorrectly coded "intermittent". This code didn't give me a CEL buy remained in the computer's memory every time I would scan it. This code leads to the car running rough/not running as it should. I found that you must also update you CAN Gateway soft coding to match the new soft coding under the engine. In my case, I had a 2000 Jetta with ABS and airbags, that previously was an automatic but I had swapped into a manual. So this is what I did.

1. I recode my ECU to think like a manual.
-Plugin VCDS
-Key ON (first turn of the key), and go into 01-Engine.
-Once loaded, go to Login - 11 and enter 01283 as the login code.
-After this go into Coding - 07 and in my case changed my automatic coding (00033) to the manual one (00031). Look up the soft coding changes that you need for your application/car.
-Click Do it!
-Go back
-Then cycle the key OFF then back ON (when cycling OFF you DONT pull the key out, just turn it counterclockwise as far as it goes).

2. Update the CAN Gateway soft coding.
-After doing the above step you're left-back in the main menu of VCDS.
-Go into 19-CAN Gateway
-And change your soft coding to match the criteria of your car. It should tell you what the numbers mean if you hover over the coding box. In my case, my soft coding was 00007 and it was not aligning with what I had just programmed the ECU to look for (it still thought it was an automatic). So I changed it to 00006 to match the newly programmed ECU.
-Click Do it!/Save
-Go back
-Cycle key OFF/ON
-Start the car

Once started and run for a bit, turn off the car and check for codes, in my case, I cleared them and it never came back. Hope it helps someone, not many people have this specific car but hope I can prevent someone from pulling out their hair just like I have. 

You also don't have to do any of the cruise wirings if you have a drive-by cable set up in your car. This is because the ECU doesn't use the electronic throttle body to control speeds but moves your gas and brake pedal instead. Only thing is that the cruise can only be deactivated by the brake, but if you're used to the automatic that shouldn't be a problem.

Oh also the coding numbers are mostly different from the TDI codes, so you gotta do a little digging for these codes. If you have an AEG then there's an awesome thread for showing you how to code it. 
https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthr...numbers-all-of-them&p=114539705#post114539705


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## OldBugVW2121 (3 mo ago)

Hello i need help on where to find my wire colors i cant find a diagram i have a 2002 AVH im stuck on cutting a wire from the TCM and splice it to the ECM and then a switch to the relay its very difficult for me if anyone can help me ive already sent out my ECM to get tuned


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## terrenceconnor3 (May 13, 2015)

JigenVW said:


> I recently completed a 5 speed swap on my 99.5 Jetta, but I can't quite figure out what to do with the TCM.
> 
> The full swap was simple and quite straightforward. Everything functions as it should. Reverse lights, clutch switch...it drives perfect. The problem I'm having though, is that when I scan the car with VCDS, I get fault codes in reference to the auto transmission being MIA. My question is, any input on how to get rid of these fault codes? I never did any wiring around the TCM because the car doesn't have cruise control. I did unplug the TCM after I recoded the ECU. But still, fault codes. In my area, any found stored codes on an OBD2 vehicle, automatically fails emissions.
> 
> -Sean


Hi 
And thanks for the info I'm still trying to find the reverse light wires can you help me out please

Thanks


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## OldBugVW2121 (3 mo ago)

terrenceconnor3 said:


> Hi And thanks for the info I'm still trying to find the reverse light wires can you help me out please Thanks


 61. Back up Light switch a. Find the connecter from the Transmission Range Switch. This is where you’ll find the wires for the back up light. Cut the wires off the connecter. Your only going to use 2 wires here. b. Take your connecter salvaged from the donor c. Splice the Green/black and the blue/yellow wire to the 2 wires on the connecter. d. Connect this to the transmission reverse light switch. Your done here.


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