# Trunk Lid (4E2, 4E8) requires excessive effort to close? Here's the fix...



## WISVW (Aug 25, 2003)

*Trunk fix*

Michael,
I figured I would start a new thread for this instead of tacking it on to the Kansas City thread!
I purchased some of the silicone spray Michael pictured. It doesn't look like there are to many places to spray it. There are a few hinge knuckles and the piston. Do I just lube these up, or is there a special location that works the magic?
Thanks,
Glen


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## dzier (Jun 19, 2004)

*Re: Trunk fix (WISVW)*

trunk fix for what?


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## riccone (Nov 11, 2004)

*Re: Trunk fix (dzier)*

Not sure what "fix" your talking about. I discovered not long ago that my trunk hidges were not working properly. Lid had to be lifted all the way up to open and pushed hard to close it. Dealer put new hidges on it and now it works like it should. You should not have to lift the lid all the way up until it is open.


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## WISVW (Aug 25, 2003)

*Re: Trunk fix (dzier)*

In the Kansas City GTG thread, Michael had talked about "fixing" manual opening trunks, so they can be closed with a finger instead of needing both hands to close.
Quite a few people seemed to have a tough time with this (myself included). I assumed this was just the way it was and was plesantly surprised to find Michael had a fix.


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## W126C (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: Trunk fix (WISVW)*

I hope Larry (KCMOVER) will check in to offer more insight. Michael is going to do a detailed write up on this. I arrived late to the mini KC GTG and they were putting the last shock/strut back into place. Thus I think you need to remove the shocks/struts. It looked easy to do.
Regards,
Brent


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## WISVW (Aug 25, 2003)

*Re: Trunk fix (W126C)*

Thanks, Brent. So a little more to it than just squirting some lubricant around, hey? I will wait for more info.
Glen


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## W126C (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: Trunk fix (WISVW)*

Glen,
I just pulled it up on the Bentley Repair CD, but it will not let me paste/cut. I don't have a scanner here at home or I would post it for you. I can tell you there are two small clips, one at the top and one at the bottom of the strut. Then the strut can be removed carefully.
I'm sure someone else will post in, but if not I'll try to scan the task from the Bentley Repair CD tomorrow.
Regards,
Brent


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Trunk fix (WISVW)*

Hi Glen:
I just got back to Toronto this evening, after quite a long drive home...








I will write up a big post explaining how to solve the 'trunk lid is difficult to close' problem tomorrow. I have a zillion photos that I need to go through and edit, crop, etc. for this post.
Michael


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## vivaitalia (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: Trunk fix (WISVW)*

OMG...........could it be true? that there is a "fix" to the manual trunk? I love my phaeton, but if there is one sore spot with me is that trunk. Or could it be that my trunk maynot be working to spec. Here are my trunk issues:
1) when I release the trunk (via keyfab or via button on driver's door), it only releases the trunk lid and is raised only about half an inch, I would then have to slide my fingers underneath the "crack" of the opening and lift the whole trunk lid up, with some effort (but nowhere near as much effort as needed to close. Is this just my phaeton or does the lid open up more than just this half inch I'm getting? On my C320 benz, the lid opens fully up (like a jack-in-the-box only with smoother action) and I can deposit 2 hands full of grocery bags into the trunk without the need for a third hand. Also disappointing is that there is no button on the outside of the trunk lid to open the trunk (many a-times, I would have to run back into the house from the garage to grab the key or go around to the driver's side door to "press that button" .... how can the engineers miss this one?)
2) I too have to use "enthusiastic" force to close the trunk lid......BTW, the "convenience" handle (not really a handle at all, just an opening to slide one's hand into) to "aid" in pulling the trunk lid down to close requires the akward use of ones hands with the palm facing the body as one pulls the lid trunk down VERSUS the handle where one inserts the hands into the opening with the back of the hand facing the body.....the popular handles on many mini-van trunks, and many sedans (like my C320 benz)....how did the engineers miss this one?
3) If I don't close the trunk lid down with enough force, then that little half inch opening remains. So when I push the lid down to "fully close" I hear a motor from the trunk that sounds a little like the motor/mechanism of the soft close doors.......could it possibly be that my manual trunk lid has a soft close that isn't working to spec? (or is this wishful thinking)....personally, i would've rather they make the soft close standard on the turnk lid than on the doors (mainly b/c the doors are so heavy that 98 out of 100 times, the weight of the door closes the doors completely shut with out the need for the soft close....even my 82 year old grandmother has problems not pulling the door hard enough so as to let the soft-close engage)
All in all, I still love my phaeton......but this trunk thing......








John


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## WISVW (Aug 25, 2003)

*Re: Trunk fix (PanEuropean)*

Michael,
Thanks, I'll wait for the write up! Off topic, but how many miles do you have on your car now? You sure have been around the country with it!
vivaitalia,
That sounds exactly like my trunk. Follow this thread for the fix!
Glen


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Trunk fix (WISVW)*

This post addresses the problem of difficulty closing the trunk lid on Phaetons that *do not* have the hydraulic servo assist trunk lid closing feature (production code 4E7) embodied. In North America, generally speaking, these are V8 Phaetons that will show production code 4E2 on the build sticker. On these vehicles, the latch itself is electric, but the lid needs to be raised and lowered by hand.

It is quite easy to visually determine whether the Phaeton has the hydraulic servo assisted trunk lid or not: If the latch at the base of the trunk lid fully retracts into the trunk lid, the car has a hydraulically assisted trunk lid (4E7), if the latch is covered by a plastic cover and protrudes from the base of the trunk lid, the trunk lid is manually operated (4E2).


*Trunk Lid Latches*

*This is the design that this post addresses.*









*The concepts presented here would probably work for this design also, but the user will normally 
not encounter difficulties closing this one:*










The information presented here is the result of a group effort by Larry, Brent, Tony, Norm and I at the Kansas City get-together on Valentine’s Day 2006. Larry, Norm and Tony all own Phaetons with the 4E2 trunk lid mechanism, and we tried our ‘fix’ on all three cars – it worked well on all three. 

Special thanks to Larry for supplying the big indoor garage and the silicone lubricant, Brent for his analysis of the ‘kinesiology’ of the system - which has a remarkable resemblance to a templar-mandibular joint







- Norm for holding the trunk lid up while we worked on it to make sure there would be no lawsuits arising from our efforts, and Tony for demonstrating the correct trunk lid closing technique.

Before taking action to resolve the problem, it is helpful to understand what causes the trunk lid to become difficult to close in the first place. Obviously, the car did not leave the Transparent Factory in Dresden with this problem – the problem has developed since the car was put in service.

It seems that there may be up to four factors that can cause the trunk lid to be difficult to close, and not all of these factors need to be present at the same time. In order of probability (from ‘most likely’ to ‘least likely’), the factors that can make the trunk lid difficult to close are as follows:

*1)* A lack of lubrication on the exposed part of the hinges and gas filled struts that comprise the trunk hinge mechanism.
*2)* Improper operation of the trunk lid by the user (in other words, not understanding the safety function of the gas filled struts, and not using the correct hand-hold to close the lid).
*3)* Defective gas filled struts.
*4)* Worn or damaged hinges.

We believe that the first two items mentioned – lack of lubrication and improper operation – are the cause of difficulty closing the trunk lid in almost all cases. We did not encounter any evidence of the last two factors – mechanical problems with the gas filled struts or the hinges – on any of the three Phaetons we used to test our repair procedure.

The ‘lack of lubrication’ problem appears to arise because both the hinge assembly and the gas filled struts are located outside of the trunk cavity in the ‘rain channel’ that fills with water whenever the car is driven in rain or (more significantly) driven through a high pressure touchless car wash. The combination of the high volume of water and the strong detergents used in touchless car washes may wash the lubricants off of both the hinges and the gas filled struts. Mounting the hinge assembly and dampers outboard of the trunk cavity opening provides us with a very large, unobstructed trunk opening – but, if we keep our Phaetons nice and clean (as almost all of us do), the lubrication on the hinges and the dampers tends to get washed off, and this results in more friction in the mechanism.

The ‘improper operation’ problem is comprised of two parts: First are efforts by the user to close the trunk lid quickly, and second is not using the handle that is built into the inside portion of the trunk lid. The gas filled struts serve two different functions, depending on whether the lid is being raised or lowered. When the lid is being raised, the struts provide lifting assistance. When the lid is being closed, the struts act as flow rate restrictors, limiting the speed at which the lid can be closed. This ‘closing speed rate reduction’ is an important safety feature: It prevents a strong gust of wind from rapidly closing the heavy trunk lid unexpectedly, and possibly causing injury to a person.

The design of the hinge and gas filled strut mechanism is such that 90% compression of the struts is achieved by the time the trunk lid has completed about two thirds of its travel to the closed position. This means that the struts offer very little resistance to the last one third of trunk lid travel downwards. If the owner comprehends the design of the system, and the safety features that are an integral part of it, he or she can adapt their ‘trunk lid closing technique’ to take advantage of the design, rather than fighting against it.

There have been some very isolated reports of failures of the gas filled struts, and even more rare reports of damage to the hinges (a result of accidents or impacts, not manufacturing problems). It is very easy to function-test the hinges to see if they are operating freely and without restriction – this will be explained later on. It is a bit more difficult to evaluate the condition of the gas-filled struts. The best suggestion we can offer is to solve the lubrication problem (easy), use a slightly different technique to bring the trunk lid down from the fully open position to the two thirds closed position (easy), function check the hinges to ensure there is no excessive resistance (easy), and then, if there are still problems, make a further investigation of the gas filled struts (easy to do, but difficult to measure objectively).

*1) Lubrication*
We were not sure what lubricant to use on the hinges and struts. We were reluctant to use conventional oil (e.g. SAE 10-30) because of concerns that this oil would attract dust, and the dust would accelerate wear on the components. We decided to use silicone lubricant, which is available from any VW dealer.

Before applying the lubricant, we removed the gas filled struts from either side of the trunk lid. This allowed us to evaluate how easily the trunk lid moved without the struts slowing the movement down. If, after removing the struts and applying the silicone lubricant, the trunk lid moved freely and without binding, we could rule out the possibility of any damage or other mechanical problems in the hinges themselves (the 4th factor mentioned above). 

To remove the struts, use a mechanic’s pick to gently pry the spring clips about 3 mm away from the outboard side of the top and bottom of each strut. It is not necessary or desirable to completely remove the spring clips from the strut. Once the spring clips have been pried back, the strut can be popped off the top and bottom attachment points by giving the strut a thump away from the attachment point with the palm of your hand. 

*How to loosen the spring clips that keep the gas filled struts in place*



























After the struts are removed, place a disposable paper towel in the rain gutter under the hinges to catch any silicone lubricant that might drip onto the paint.
Now spray the silicone lubricant on the various exposed hinge points (there are 4 hinge points on each side), then exercise the trunk lid up and down a few times. Then apply a second spritz of silicone lubricant to all the hinge points. Exercise the trunk lid up and down a few more times, and evaluate whether it moves freely and without binding. It should move pretty easily, with no resistance other than its own weight, if the two struts have been removed.

Be sure you have a helper to hold the trunk lid in the ‘up’ position when you are removing the struts, and at all times once the struts have been removed. The trunk lid is heavy, and when the struts have been removed, there is nothing to prevent it from coming down on you like a guillotine.

*It is important (for safety) to support the trunk lid at all times when the gas filled struts have been removed.*









*This illustration shows where the points that need lubrication are found*







>

*Spray the lubricant in between the two metal parts at each of the four hinge points on each side*









*Use this lubricant, which can be purchased at a VW dealer*
We *think *this is the correct lubricant to use.


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## PhaetonChix (Dec 16, 2004)

Michael,
Thank you for posting this great info. I think we need to thumbtack this thread with all the new owners showing up and current owners with trunk issues.
And for those non do it your selfers: PRINT THIS THREAD BEFORE YOU TAKE YOUR CAR TO THE DEALER. A pictures speaks a thousand words, Michael's technical posts save everyone time and therefore MONEY.
~PC


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## copernicus0001 (Nov 30, 2004)

*Re: Trunk fix (PanEuropean)*

One small thing I would add to closing the trunk lid on vehicles without a power-closing trunk:
When the trunk lid is most of the way closed, *finish closing the trunk by pressing down on the VW emblem.* This will prevent fine scratches from developing on the trunk lid. The scratches are especially noticeable on black cars. The paint will get scratched from dirt or salt acting as an abrasive.
Douglas


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## GripperDon (May 9, 2005)

I had done all that oiling and went back and did it again before replacing the one snubber I had removed. NOW with both snubbers in place it is still
1. Too hard to close.
2. Does still not pop up far enought with either 1 or 2 gas strutts used.
3. Have removed the second strut again so she can close it without developing arms to look like a line backer.
4. I always do trunk duties when I am with her.
5. I think the design while pretty needs to be redone. They make the gas assists that have an internal valve that pushes more from the closed position and less when full extended (open trunk)
6. My wife almost refuses to use the trunk as it is just too much for her. I am beginning to experiment with different arrangements. 
7. She comments as to how the Big SUV we use flips up the lid a "Goodly" amount and closes with ease from fully open. She is right. 
8. So after making some measurements and weight / force calculations I have order some units that I willbe trying.


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## Paldi (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (GripperDon)*

Maybe the "handle on the trunk" idea isn't so far-fetched? Grab the spoiler and pull/push it closed.


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## GripperDon (May 9, 2005)

It doesn't even look that bad. Wonder where you get them and how much?


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## Paldi (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (GripperDon)*

About $200.00 on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem


















_Modified by Paldi at 2:25 PM 3-9-2006_


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## GripperDon (May 9, 2005)

Thanks That might just help.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (GripperDon)*

Photos re-hosted.
Michael


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## Faszination (Aug 18, 2007)

*Boot lock adjustment*

Hi,

I have a non power boot and sometimes the lock fails to disengage fully when I open it. To get round this I have to push down on the boot lid and can then hear the motor 'whirr' and the boot is then open. 

Anyone know if I can 'adjust' the lock to make it open every time like it used to?

Cheers

Ian


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Ian:

I think your problem can be solved by adjusting the two 'closing points' that are behind the rubber nipples, outboard of the latch assembly on the lower edge of the trunk lid.

Let me see if I can dig up a PDF explaining how to do that.

Michael


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## Faszination (Aug 18, 2007)

Michael, 

Any joy with the PDF? 

I have taken a look at the grommits I think you mean and am not sure this is the issue. I believe the lock was removed to fix another problem and has not been replaced in exactly the same place so needs adjusting slightly but I am not sure in what way. 

Cheers 

Ian


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Sorry for forgetting, I have been really busy at work lately. 

PDF attached.


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## Faszination (Aug 18, 2007)

Michael, 

Much appreciated. I will have a fiddle today. 

Cheers 

Ian


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## anthonymck (Mar 8, 2012)

*Clarification question on 4e6 trunk release*

First - new owner of a 2005 v8 phaeton. After a 3 year familiarization of the car, I bought one from a private seller in PA. 
I read the PDF on the rear lid, but don't quite get what I should be adjusting. When I activate the trunk release, the motor tries to release the lid, but as stated in an earlier post, pressure needs to be applied to the lid to enable the catch to let go. Am I supposed to adjust the bolts in the damper?


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Photos re-hosted. 

Michael


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## arthurgodsake (Nov 26, 2010)

*Stiff boot (trunk) lid*

Hello Everyone
You need to be Vassily Alexiev to open my boot these days. Can I just use a bit of WD40 or did I see somewhere that you mustn't?
Tim


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## pgoober (Jan 4, 2009)

*There is a preferred lubricant*

Tim,
I can't remember the details of the recommended lubricant...but...
When mine was stiff I just popped into my local VW dealer and asked if I could borrow the can to spray my hinges and pistons. 30 seconds later I was gone and my boot was lubed.

Also, have you checked to see if the braided cord guide isn't binding?

-BD


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## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Hi Tim,
To me, WD40 seems to light to offer continuous lubrication. 
From time to time I spray the joints/knuckles with lithium grease, work the boot lid up and down a few times and then, clean the excess grease. However you could use WD40 to free it up, but after I would use some grease based lubricant.

Gabriel


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## Rayston (Mar 31, 2012)

*Table of contents reveals all!*

Hi Tim,

As usual Michael has it covered. See his post "Re: Trunk fix (WISVW)" which shows the lube points and the ideal lubricant. I used a similar dry lubricant and it works fine.

Good luck.

Ray


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## arthurgodsake (Nov 26, 2010)

Thanks for that Ray. I have tried WD40 with some success but I think it probably requires the Michael solution so I will have to get some of the dry lubricant and a mate and try that. 
Tim


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## Harism (Jan 2, 2016)

Hello everyone 
I have same problem like you guys and I tried everything but my lid is very hard to close 
I found micros microswitch in my left battery compartment just hanging there and I think that has to do something with trunk but I can't figure it out where supposed to go









Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk


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## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Hi,
It would be great if you could post the microswitch part number, that way we might be able to trace it.

Gabriel


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## Harism (Jan 2, 2016)

I really don't know part number 

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk


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## Harism (Jan 2, 2016)

It's 2004 v8 none motorized trunk 

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk


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