# The 16ValveInside Engine Assembly Thread



## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

Finally getting started on this since everything is back from the machine shop and the head made it back from New York. It will be a slow process since I'm only working on this on weekends, but I can't wait to hear it bust gas, 16V 2.0 all motor using the 2.0 head with MUCH work done to it. You'll see the details as progress is made, using SEM probably Megasquirt.
Installed the Oil Squirters and the Intermediate Shaft








I like this aluminum intermediate shaft pulley, it weighs about 6.8oz, sliped it on to turn the shaft during some checks.








Then got the crankshaft installed and the main bearing caps torqued after many checks, might not look like much progress, but I put a lot of time into it. 








until next weekend


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## Passatboy101 (Mar 18, 2007)

Cool deal. I like the colors and detail of the first picture. Nice engine, reminds me, I need to put mine back together.


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## eme411 (Aug 27, 2008)

*Re: The 16ValveInside Engine Assembly Thread (16ValveInside)*

I am rebuilding my 1,8 16V, the cranck is being balance and I should have it this week.
One info I can not find in the Benthley book, for the test with the plastic on the cranck bearing cap, is it done without the bearing and what is the torque for the test with the plactic.


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## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

*Re: The 16ValveInside Engine Assembly Thread (eme411)*

lookin good http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
nice and clean


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## oilpangasket (Dec 5, 2007)

*Re: The 16ValveInside Engine Assembly Thread (eme411)*


_Quote, originally posted by *eme411* »_I am rebuilding my 1,8 16V, the cranck is being balance and I should have it this week.
One info I can not find in the Benthley book, for the test with the plastic on the cranck bearing cap, is it done without the bearing and what is the torque for the test with the plactic.

it is done with the bearing and it is the same torque as you would install it. Only us it on the cap side of the crank (just one side of the journal.)


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## eme411 (Aug 27, 2008)

*Re: The 16ValveInside Engine Assembly Thread (oilpangasket)*


_Quote, originally posted by *oilpangasket* »_
it is done with the bearing and it is the same torque as you would install it. Only us it on the cap side of the crank (just one side of the journal.)


Thanks for the info


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: The 16ValveInside Engine Assembly Thread (eme411)*

The machine shop checked the pistons, and after 100k miles all is good so they cleaned them up. I would have loved to just buy new ones, but thats not in the buget, and these turned out nice enough.








Those piston pin circlips are such a pain, and after building high performance air cooled VW engines for many years I sure miss using those Gene Berg piston pin snap rings. No snap ring plyers here, just need 4 hands. I used my thumb and this thick nylon trim tool. I guess the main thing to remember is that the clip passes that little notch in the opening so you can use that as a point to pry them out when its time to remove them next time. 








success








ok piston on rod, valve reliefs down, notches on rod on left, and VW emblem on the right 








Piston Rings, this piston ring spreader makes it easier for me but it also makes it easy to spread them open enough to break them too so, the idea is to open just enough to get clear the piston.








installed








number #1 rod bearing








rings compressed #1
























lowered #1 and snugged but did not yet torque the bearing cap








gotta load some more pictures


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## CHETVW007 (Jul 25, 2001)

*Re: The 16ValveInside Engine Assembly Thread (16ValveInside)*

Awesome thread....i'll keep my eye on this one.
BTW, what type of int. pulley is this? Where did you get it?


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: The 16ValveInside Engine Assembly Thread (CHETVW007)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CHETVW007* »_Awesome thread....i'll keep my eye on this one.
BTW, what type of int. pulley is this? Where did you get it?









its a AutoTech aluminum pulley, but I got it from Bildon Motorsport
http://www.bildon.com/catalog/...=none


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## Aladinsane07 (Jan 10, 2007)

*Re: The 16ValveInside Engine Assembly Thread (16ValveInside)*

Very cool build. Can I ask what the blue lining is on the cylinder walls on the first picture?


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## weefek (May 28, 2007)

*Re: The 16ValveInside Engine Assembly Thread (Aladinsane07)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Aladinsane07* »_Very cool build. Can I ask what the blue lining is on the cylinder walls on the first picture?

Glare / reflection from whatever is on top of the block. Blue tape maybe, a tarp, something.


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## deeeGLI (Mar 1, 2006)

*Re: The 16ValveInside Engine Assembly Thread (weefek)*

You got me twitchin--I'm redoin my 9A after a spun rod bearing.Complete bottom end is at the machine shop,crank work,Wiseco's,rods etc....I can't wait it's gonna be great.
Good luck ---I'll be watching!!


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## Aladinsane07 (Jan 10, 2007)

*Re: The 16ValveInside Engine Assembly Thread (weefek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *weefek* »_
Glare / reflection from whatever is on top of the block. Blue tape maybe, a tarp, something.

Ha Seriously? Nutty.


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## fabstaMKII (Sep 9, 2008)

*Re: The 16ValveInside Engine Assembly Thread (Aladinsane07)*

nice thread man ...keep it comin and good luck!


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## daily89GTI (Nov 6, 2008)

Keep up the good work. i will be watching this thread.


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (daily89GTI)*

I got a lot of detailed info from Pashat's thread. There is what seems like an ongoing conversation in this thread between Pashat and OhioBenz during his build and I thank them both for some very helpful info.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3404606
Top compression ring at 12:00, lower compression ring at 4:00 and the oil ring gap at 8:00. The oil ring (mine are 2 piece) spring opening at 2:00 (180 degrees from the oil ring gap)
#2 piston rings now compressed and ready for the block








those oil squirters sure come close to the piston skirt








#2 in and down, snugged up the rod bearing cap but did not torque yet








#3








#3 lowered to snug up rod bearing cap








stay tuned


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## fabstaMKII (Sep 9, 2008)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*

lookin good man....keep sharing the love!


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## Aladinsane07 (Jan 10, 2007)

*Re: (fabstaMKII)*

Good progress. Looks like it's coming along pretty quickly.
And thanks for the reminder on the ring directions http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## idrivemyself (Mar 7, 2003)

Looks good so far. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
What is the part number for the aluminum intermediate shaft?


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## X K R O M X (Jan 19, 2006)

*Re: (idrivemyself)*


_Quote, originally posted by *idrivemyself* »_Looks good so far. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
What is the part number for the aluminum intermediate shaft?

you must be joking right?


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## JettaConA-G60 (Jan 30, 2006)

u should torque each rod down as you go and spin the crank so that you know nothing is binding up. and if something is you know where to look and wont be wasting time guessing. just a tip.


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## idrivemyself (Mar 7, 2003)

*Re: (X K R O M X)*


_Quote, originally posted by *X K R O M X* »_
you must be joking right?









Gotcha! No, I misread the sentence and missed the word "pulley" after the intermediate shaft. I thought it was too good so I had to ask for myself. Serves me right for posting on a phone...


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (idrivemyself)*

On a side note I had to remove # 2 piston because a small section of the oil ring did not seat corectly. Seems it just did not make the jump from ring compressor to cylinder the way it should. I saw a faint mark on the cylinder bore when turning it over after installing it. No damage done, rings are ok. cylinder was well lubed and no scratch there. So I pulled it out, repositioned the oil rings re-installed and everything is fine. But I sure am glad I did not TORQUE the rod bolts ALL the way down since they are STRETCH bolts I would of had to REPLACE the rod bolts on that rod.
Time to install #4 
I found it easiier when installing these 2 piece oil rings, to lay them down on a flat surface. That way I could expand the inner ring with my hand to the match the needed diamter of the outer when opened with the pliers, the just slip over the top of the piston and release. Spent less time fitting them together this way.
























#4 going in








#4 rod before installing bearing cap








installed #4 rod bearing cap, turns over nice and smooth - feels good.
This was a 100,000 mile engine that had never been apart and that was running good. Everything was tagged/bagged, went to the machine shop, and anything that was not new then went back in its original position down to the main bearing cap bolts.








Putting the stretch on the rod bolts








turning over smoothly, check out the cool shoe








Spin it back around on the engine stand, finished with this, now on to the front and rear main seals.


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## redGTInj (Jul 6, 2003)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*

Nice.....awesome post! nice selection of parts and awesome pics...i'm working on mine as i type this...


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## CHETVW007 (Jul 25, 2001)

*Re: (redGTInj)*


_Quote, originally posted by *redGTInj* »_Nice.....awesome post! nice selection of parts and awesome pics...i'm working on mine as i type this...

stroker by chance? pics thread?


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## Schaef (Jan 26, 2008)

*Re: (CHETVW007)*

And im sure you checked all your main and rod clearances as well














very crucial part.


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (CHETVW007)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CHETVW007* »_
stroker by chance? pics thread?

I wish it was a stroker crank, but no, thats not in my budget. Std stroke and bore. Its still a 2.0


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*

ok got the front crank seal installed in the housing
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a186/garysdrumz/036-1.jpg[/IMG
mounting area nice and clean, gasket in place, housing in place, I lube the seal lip with some white lithium grease, 
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a186/garysdrumz/037-1.jpg


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## frechem (Oct 19, 2002)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*


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## CHETVW007 (Jul 25, 2001)

*Re: (frechem)*

what type of rod and main bearings did you use? separate thrust bearings?


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (CHETVW007)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CHETVW007* »_what type of rod and main bearings did you use? separate thrust bearings?

thanks for fixing that pic frechem,
I used Glyco mains with the Glyco separate thrust bearings, and Kolbenschmidt rod bearings, all bearings were Std. crank was in fantastic shape.


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*

rear main


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## frechem (Oct 19, 2002)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16ValveInside* »_
thanks for fixing that pic frechem,

No worries.


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## Big CADDY (Aug 28, 2001)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*

Love this pic..


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## VW Tuna (Jan 29, 2003)

IN.


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (VW Tuna)*

Ok, time for a little update. I had a lot of pics on my camera that got deleted by mistake, so I'll just give you a quick summary on what that was all about. The oil pump, took it apart and checked backlash on the gears which should be between .002 - .008 and mine was .006 with a tight .007, so after 95,000 miles I just got a new one. I also ordered a new stock oil pan, and decided to go with the oil pan gasket/windage tray 1 piece deal. Now this gasket/tray will not allow the use of the original oil pickup big plastic baffle, and even though I 've heard that these things self destruct, get brittle and break apart, melt, etc., mine was in great shape. I found the correct much smaller baffle designed for use with this new tray/gasket and installed that on the new oil pump. 
the oil pan gasket/tray ( not really a windage tray per say in my opinion but should help keep a lot of oil off the crank)








a comparison of the old and new pickup baffle
















installed









Now I'm searching for some allen head bolts to secure the pan, and debating on if I should or should not use a little sealer on this gasket/tray combo, should this require any type of sealant?


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## kompressorgolf (Dec 6, 2005)

Being a nice rubber gasket you shouldnt need any sealer looks good nice build! my 16v im doing had 155.000 on it and its crank is flawless as well, i guess its true these things dont even get started till 100,000! now if they just would have dont something more appropriate for stock fueling... in america


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## L33t A2 (Aug 5, 2003)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16ValveInside* »_debating on if I should or should not use a little sealer on this gasket/tray combo, should this require any type of sealant?



I hate to say it but the build in rubber gasket does NOT work as well as it should. I would put a very thin coat of some kind of gasket maker/sealer on it when you install.


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## jogtx16v (Dec 15, 2007)

how cost this pick up baffle at the dealer ?


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (jogtx16v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jogtx16v* »_how cost this pick up baffle at the dealer ?

cheap it was $10.20 plus shipping http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## G60RRADO (Nov 30, 2000)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*

nice. you thinking of going with itb's? or stock intake set up?


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (L33t A2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *L33t A2* »_
I hate to say it but the build in rubber gasket does NOT work as well as it should. I would put a very thin coat of some kind of gasket maker/sealer on it when you install.

thanks for the info.
Ok got some 6mm black oxide allen head bolts, and I did not like the way the 6mm washers walked to the side when tightening, so I found some #10 stainless steel washers and hand filed them with a rat tail file until they fit nice and tight. Also broke out my bottle of Curil Sealant and now I'm ready to install the oil pan, pump, baffle, windage tray, etc.









Ready to get this together, thin coat of sealant on the block








and on the tray








tray in place








installed the oil pump and a little sealant on the tray, torqued the pump to 20NM








sealant on the oil pan 








oil pan installed, I stopped at 10 foot pounds of torque on the oil pan with this gasket/tray installed, it just felt right, if anybody has any other input on the torque when using this tray/gasket please chime in.
















Now can someone help me with these seals that were in my engine block gasket set? The top left smaller green o-ring goes on the end of the breather box I think. does the other green o-ring go on that cover plate beside it? And what about the rest of those o-rings and that gasket thing on the lower left. It feels like felt and it has a self adhesive back.


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*

In the picture above can someone help me with these seals that were in my engine block gasket set?
The top left smaller green o-ring goes on the end of the breather box I think.
Does the other green o-ring go on that round block off plate beside it? 
Where do the rest of those o-rings go.
And there is the gasket on the lower left. It feels like felt and it has a self adhesive back.


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## jogtx16v (Dec 15, 2007)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*

-the self-adhesive go on a plate cover after the tranny and the engine are bolted . sorry for my english









-I think the biggest o-ring go between the water pump and the engine block
-for the green O-ring . He exist 2 type of breather on the 16v 9a engine , install one that fit best .. not loose on the breather .
same think for the oil filter bracket , two type of gasket !! 
- and your need a little gasket at the dealer for this part :

VWPART # 053 905 261 B

_Modified by jogtx16v at 11:44 AM 1-11-2009_


_Modified by jogtx16v at 11:52 AM 1-11-2009_


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## jogtx16v (Dec 15, 2007)

for the other o-ring , im not sure .
do you install one in the intermediate shaft ?


_Modified by jogtx16v at 11:54 AM 1-11-2009_


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (jogtx16v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jogtx16v* »_for the other o-ring , im not sure .
do you install one in the intermediate shaft ?

_Modified by jogtx16v at 11:54 AM 1-11-2009_

Yes I've already installed the o-ring for the intermediate shaft. So the self adhesive goes on the back of that metal cover once the engine and trans are bolted together?
Thanks for the info, I just need to find out what the other black o-rings are for, and I gues I'll get that little gasket for the block off from the Dealer.


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## jogtx16v (Dec 15, 2007)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16ValveInside* »_
So the self adhesive goes on the back of that metal cover once the engine and trans are bolted together?


yes !


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## jogtx16v (Dec 15, 2007)

*Re: (jogtx16v)*

I receive my part at the dealer today 053 905 261 B and its not a gasket







its a green o-ring and I don't know if fit here ..


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## CHETVW007 (Jul 25, 2001)

*Re: (jogtx16v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jogtx16v* »_I receive my part at the dealer today 053 905 261 B and its not a gasket







its a green o-ring and I don't know if fit here ..









is it made of hard brittle plastic, and flat in shape? or is it more soft round a pliable?
take a pic of it.


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## kompressorgolf (Dec 6, 2005)

does anyone know the part number of this plug? http://images2.photomania.com/...C.jpg
i need to know, i work at a dealer in vw parts and it isnt in etka? any help?


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## jogtx16v (Dec 15, 2007)

*Re: (kompressorgolf)*

this pic comes from ETK* 7 Last update 733 

I have called the numer 9 .. same # as 10








and its really a green o-ring that i received , not hard plastic . its soft 



_Modified by jogtx16v at 9:46 PM 1-14-2009_


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (jogtx16v)*

does it look like the green o-ring in the top right of the above picture?


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## jogtx16v (Dec 15, 2007)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*

yes it look like this .


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (jogtx16v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jogtx16v* »_yes it look like this . 

I used it , seems to fit just fine, the small green one is for the breather box


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*

got the breather box installed, used the small green o-ring in the above picture for the end








and the oil filter housing








Then the block off plate using the large green o-ring, seemed to fit just fine. I know I remember there being a gasket on this when I removed it during teardown.


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## Big CADDY (Aug 28, 2001)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*

Looks great. you are a perfectionist. Re torque the pan bolts before you put the motor in. those windage trays are nice, but tend to seep oil.
hope you don't charge by the hour







Rome wasn't built in a day right.


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (Big CADDY)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Big CADDY* »_Looks great. you are a perfectionist. Re torque the pan bolts before you put the motor in. those windage trays are nice, but tend to seep oil.
hope you don't charge by the hour







Rome wasn't built in a day right.

Thanks, and yes, its a slow process I work on it a little bit each weekend as long as parts have arrived.
Got the water pump and thermostat installed. 
I cleaned the black paint off of the mounting surface, installed the o-ring seal and torqued the coolant pump housing the the block (20Nm). And used the long bolt/studs on the bottom of the housing.








I was surprised the 10mm bolts holding the water pump to the housing were not torqued properly. I mean this is a German made pump, so just goes to show you, it pays to check. I torqued the pump to housing bolts to 10Nm and the Bentley said there are 7, my pump had 8, and all 8 of them were snug, but not at 10Nm.








Placed the thermostat in the housing, I'm using a 80 degree C thermostat which is exactly what was in this engine. I would think it had been changed before since its a cooler temp. The Bentley says 85C is stock and the TT catalog I have says 87C. 








Put the thermostat in, O-ring, and then the housing and torqued it to 10Nm.








Next I' gonna check on the slick serpentine belt alternator setup that INA offers, hopefully I'll get the kit if the price is right, then I can get the bracket and pulleys, and alternator installed.


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## jogtx16v (Dec 15, 2007)

Very nice job !!


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## oldshewlzgli (Sep 13, 2006)

*Re: (jogtx16v)*

wicked build http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## richa3turbo (Feb 2, 2003)

Looks great! Nice job.


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## rypivolks. (Mar 17, 2007)

*Re: (richa3turbo)*

cant wait to get started on mine! great job!


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## Aladinsane07 (Jan 10, 2007)

*Re: (rypivolks.)*

Thanks for the update. Good progress http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (Aladinsane07)*

Time to get things together to install the head. I sent my head to New York back in 2005, and ever since it was completed and shipped back its been sitting on a shelf in the garage. So after about 3+ years its time to open that puppy up and cc the combustion chambers so I can start calculating my compression ratio.
















Cut some of this platic off, Ive seen many pictures of this during its progress as Brad e-mailed me photos from start to finish, and then shipped a disc with all the pics on it, with the head. Thats why I never unwrpapped it until I was read to install. 








































































This universal plexiglass plate they sent with the head cc kit is way to big and rather than cut it down I thought I'd checked the ones that I use for building air cooled VW high performance engines, and found that the one for heads cut for 90.5mm pistons worked just fine.
















I got exactly 45cc, checked the 1st on 3 times to make sure I was reading correctly and then moved on to the others, all at 45cc exactly. 








Next I gotta check deck height, and gasket bore when I get my head gasket set. I've got the other numbers I need, so soon I'll have all the numbers I need to calculate my current compression ratio.


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*

this is the plate that was too big


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## 20V1.8T (Jan 30, 2006)

I didnt notice any plasti-gauge going on? was that just a step you left out or didnt bother documenting. 
Id hate for a noob to stuble on this great build up thread and miss that very important step.


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (20V1.8T)*

Yes, should have mentioned that but that was done at the machine shop before I brought everything home, so just in case there was a problem I would not have to take everything back. Now that I think about it I don't think Ive seen a engine build thread that included pics or documentation during the *plastigage* clearance check process. It would be a tedious process to take pictures of along the way for one person. I was lucky in that this engine had about 98,000 miles on it and had never been apart. After disassembly the crank was in fantastic shape and the journals just needed to be lightly polished. Since this engine had never been apart and everything was bagged and tagged during disassembly, everything went back in its original location with std/std bearings. That being the case there would be less chance of a bearing clearance/wear limit issue but my guy and the machine shop took care of that step for me and everything checked was within allowed clearance/wear limit. I should have taken some pictures in the machine shop and I wish I had taken a video of the intermediate shaft spinning, even at low rpms the amount of wobble in that shaft was scary prior to it being machined.
Next up, all you factory oil cooler haters are gonna love this.


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## CHETVW007 (Jul 25, 2001)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16ValveInside* »_
Next up, all you factory oil cooler haters are gonna love this.









I love the factory oil cooler set up on water cooled vw/audis. i think its a genius design. now watch, mine will explode tonight


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## Big CADDY (Aug 28, 2001)

*Re: (CHETVW007)*

hope you have a receipt for that head.









Looks nice


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## CHETVW007 (Jul 25, 2001)

*Re: (Big CADDY)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Big CADDY* »_hope you have a receipt for that head.









Looks nice

haha, i was thinking something similar. it looks like great work though http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (CHETVW007)*

I'm uploading some pics for a update, but also I'm ready to put the cylinder head on and I only want to do that once because head gaskets and head bolts are expensive. SO, what do I have to do about timing. The cams are timed in the head, but I do not have a crank pulley yet. Can I just bolt the head on and worry about timing later, turn it over till #1 is at the TDC and then install? What would you do?


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## jogtx16v (Dec 15, 2007)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*

put your cam gear on tdc . set the piston # 1 about 1 inches before the TDC .
after this , no problem , you can bolt the head








you can finish your timing later 
Jo


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (jogtx16v)*

Oil cooler time, with the OEM cooler for all you factory oil cooler (oil warmer) haters. I like the OEM oil cooler. This engine saw almost 100,00 miles with the same cooler and the internals looked great, so why change now.
new cooler with hoses


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (jogtx16v)*

Oil cooler time, with the OEM cooler for all you factory oil cooler (oil warmer) haters. I like the OEM oil cooler. This engine saw almost 100,00 miles with the same cooler and the internals looked great, so why change now.
new cooler with hoses








and the oil cooler seal, this seal has the tabs and it seems like they would keep that seal from moving during installation 








Hose Clamps - I found out after cleaning these factory clamps that the metric size is stamped on the back side of the tab. I know it hard to see in the pic but this blue one is 23mm. The green ones are 27mm, and the other size on the oil cooler hose is 32mm, not sure what color that one was originally as it was rusted. 
















I order these clamps from McMaster-Carr, nobody had these in town, don't waste your time going to NAPA, all anybody had was the dreaded screw type clamps. McMaster does not have all the metric sizes, but I got what they had and I'll source the rest if I can't reuse the original ones as I go.
















put a little sealant on the housing, installed the threaded piece
















that oil cooler mounting nut is a crazy size, not even metric, had to run around the corner to Sears for that one. Its a 1 1/16








and there is the OEM cooler in all its glory - torque that odd size nut down to 25Nm 








1 hose installed - I'll install the other one once the head is on and thats next on the list since I've got my compression ratio sorted. Thanks to "antichristonwheels" and "Scirocco53", I ended up with 10.80:1 








Dip stick tube, which I should have installed while the pan was off because I hated the idea of tapping that tube in the block thinking about the possibilty of something falling down in the oil pan. But I cleaned the splines on the tube, of course the block was clean, added some high temp silicon to tube and tapped it in until seated.
















you know sometimes you just gotta throw the cover back and look at what it is your working toward for a little inspiration.


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## Velvetchrist (Jan 15, 2009)

I'm very excited about your build! I'm just about to break into my 9a so this is helping me get ready. Good job though!


----------



## CHETVW007 (Jul 25, 2001)

*Re: (Velvetchrist)*

More please. By the way, where did you get the new water/oil cooler unit? and what did it cost? German made?


----------



## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (CHETVW007)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CHETVW007* »_More please. By the way, where did you get the new water/oil cooler unit? and what did it cost? German made?

got it from http://www.parts4vw.com and its definitely made in Germany,
right now I'm waiting on pulleys, mainly crank, but got all 3 on the way, then I'll be installing the head.


----------



## Aladinsane07 (Jan 10, 2007)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*

Glad to see more progress! This build has become such a great resource; I love the way you document what could seem like minute details to experts, but it really helps people like myself. Props http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## NewUnit16 (Dec 10, 2008)

*Re: (Aladinsane07)*

updates! pwease?


----------



## mr lee (Jan 31, 2005)

*Re: (NewUnit16)*

keeping posted on this... i'm right where you are at currently in my own build. 
yours looks 10x better than mine tho


----------



## deathsled (Jul 6, 2008)

*wurd*

subscribed, i need all the help i can get with my engine...except i'm doing most of the machining myself (minus the valves and decking the head)


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: wurd (deathsled)*

finally found a crank pulley/harmonic balancer, and a single groove water pump pulley. I'm gave up trying to find a non a/c, non p/s, alternator bracket, so at this point I'll settle for a non a/c alt. bracket. If anyone has one please let me know.
should have some updates with pics next weekend


----------



## hypothetical (Oct 20, 2006)

*Re: wurd (16ValveInside)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16ValveInside* »_finally found a crank pulley/harmonic balancer, and a single groove water pump pulley. I'm gave up trying to find a non a/c, non p/s, alternator bracket, so at this point I'll settle for a non a/c alt. bracket. If anyone has one please let me know.
should have some updates with pics next weekend 

I run this on my car, It is simple clean and reliable:
http://www.034motorsport.com/p...d=988 
Great Build. I am starting my ABA 16vT in June so reading your thread is giving me a bunch of reminders... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: wurd (hypothetical)*

I finally found my pulleys for a no a/c, no pwr/str setup, still looking for a 2.0 16V, no a/c, no pwr/str alternater bracket or one thats already cut up, so if you have one let me know.
















Also got a new crank sprocket and bolt. Now the Bentley says (lubricated) beside all the torque specs, so I assume that means put some oil on it, which I will do once I get the point where I actually torque it down, but for now its just snug.








OK, time to put the head on, so I wiped off the block mounting surface, and brought # 1 back down about a inch in the cylinder, so #1 and #4 and both abount a inch down and #2 and #3 are down lower.








Placed the head gasket in place with the word OBEN/Top facing up








Wiped off head mounting surface, and prepare to slap that puppy on.








Ok, so the Bentley says place two 200 mm long, 9mm diameter (8 in. x 3/8 in.) wooden dowels into 2 of the outermost head bolt holes to hold the gasket and serve as a guide as the head is installed, and I though about all the but decided on a different method, mostly because that thing is heavy and I can't see holding it up high enough and trying to align dowels through 2 of the both holes at the same time. So what I did was sat down behind the engine on the exhaust side with the head in my lap and lowered it slowly onto the 2 rear dowel pins. Those 2 short dowel pins do a fine enough job holding the gasket in place and if you look at the bottom of the head and get a good idea where the holes are or even place a mark with a sharpie on the back of the head to indicate where they are, you can lower down on those 2 dowels and when you do the head is in place.








Now you can drop in those new, NOT used head bolts and turn them slowly until there are all snug. Then start the torque procedure outlined in the Bentley, which I did, and the last step where you repeat the sequence the third time and tighten them 1/2 turn. I split that up into 2 1/4 turns and that first 1/4 turn was tough, scared I might strip some threads, the 2nd 1/4 turn was a _little_ easier.








I think I may have my cams in slightly out of alignment and hopefully you can help me with this. When I line up the marks on the outside of the cam gears these lobes (I believe this is what "antichristonwheels" looks for), look like this, which I think is right








and the marks on the outside of the cam gears seem right
















backside of gears seems good 








but when I line up the cam gear, it throws everything out of alignment, cam gear aligned to marks








hard to see in this pic, but its lined up with valve cover mark








and with came gear lined up the other marks look like this
























I switched to the original cam gear and got the same results
























So at this point my question is do I use the adjustable cam gear and when the cam marks all align then adjust the gear to line up with the valve cover and the head? Or reset the cams so that all the marks line up when the cam gear points to valve cover mark and head?
Also it seems that the cam gear bolt and the intermediate shaft gear bolts are the same, and I believe they are both reusable, can some verify this.


----------



## dubinva (Oct 18, 2004)

*Re: wurd (16ValveInside)*

hey man great build. 
about the timing marks. From the few times I've had mine apart, my understanding is that the marks on the two cam gears are for timing the cams to each other. And this is a separate timing from the main cam gear to crank timing. 
What i've done is time the chain gears to each other lining up the marks. And then once they're timed to each other use the mark on the cam gear to set the timing belt.
I hope that makes sense, and know that i'm not an expert (I know that you have a lot more experience than me). But I've done a similar build to what you're doing, and I've had the cams off a few times and this is the way I've done it.
Good luck with the rest of the build.


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: wurd (dubinva)*

I thought all these marks, internal cam gears to each other, outer cam gear to valve cover mark (or other side of outer cam gear to valve cover seating surface.), and crank pulley to lower timing cover, all have to line up at the same time.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4150443
Can someone confirm this?


----------



## dubinva (Oct 18, 2004)

*Re: wurd (16ValveInside)*

looking at that thread. The pictures show all the timing marks. But he didn't say that they all went together.
hopefully we can get another person's thoughts on this.


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## sprout (Mar 18, 2006)

*Re: wurd (16ValveInside)*

I've never installed cams myself, but I've checked my timing. They match the link you have where the cam timing marks match each other when the cam pulley is lined up with the timing mark.
That's also how the bentley describes it I believe.


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## ohfllifer (Feb 10, 2005)

*Re: wurd (sprout)*

All the marks should line up at the same time. The intake cam needs to be retarded a tooth, maybe two, its hard to tell from the angle in the pic.


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## hypothetical (Oct 20, 2006)

*Re: wurd (dubinva)*

OP the timing marks should all line up everywhere. Your intake cam is advanced in the picture when your exhaust cam is set at TDC. You will need to removed the intake cam and retard it 1 tooth then re torque everything. 
The car will run where you have it, but not well in the higher rpm ranges...


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: wurd (hypothetical)*

thanks guys, I will pull the intake cam and retard it 1 tooth and recheck


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: wurd (16ValveInside)*

hopefully this will be the last time for this, trying to time the cams together. time take them out again








following the procedure in the Bentley in reverse, kinda helps to just write it down backwards, makes it easier to refer to and some smooth jaw Channel Locks, make it easy to remove the cars once the nuts are off.








with the cam gear set at the head and valve cover marks this is where I am presently








made some marks/red dots to help reference where I need to be, one click clockwise should do it 








Pulled the cams out and cleaned them off, its a lot easier to work with them without all that moly all over the place. set the chain on the gears, going back in 








that looks better I read somewhere about taking that stud out for the intake cam end cap and it sure makes it easier. with the exhaust cam in and #2 and # 4 caps in place and the nuts barely on I could lift the intake cam just enough to rotate it and slip the chain to the next tooth. Maybe not "Bentley" approved, but it helps.








thats better








highlighted the marks on the backside, 








and the next picture is for "antichristonwheels", as he taught me this trick about using the #1 cylinder lobes as another reference point - they should mirror each other if everything is set properly. Now this looks right, let me know what you think. 








all lubed back up








ok


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## CHETVW007 (Jul 25, 2001)

*Re: wurd (16ValveInside)*

You're ready to rock...when's that beast going in? More pics of the recipient! Exhaust and intake plans?


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: wurd (CHETVW007)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CHETVW007* »_You're ready to rock...when's that beast going in? More pics of the recipient! Exhaust and intake plans?

its going in a 91 GTI, see if I can find some more pics of the car, exhaust will be TT, maybe headers depending on price, if not then stock 16V exhaust manifold with TT downpipe and system. Intake is stock 16V, going NA with megasquirt.


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## CHETVW007 (Jul 25, 2001)

*Re: wurd (16ValveInside)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16ValveInside* »_
its going in a 91 GTI, see if I can find some more pics of the car, exhaust will be TT, maybe headers depending on price, if not then stock 16V exhaust manifold with TT downpipe and system. Intake is stock 16V, going NA with megasquirt. 

Dont go Megasquirt...stay with the motronic...just have Collen at TT burn you chip based on your setup.....hes great with programing chips for motronic...and its so much easier


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## callawayrabbit (Mar 20, 2003)

*Re: wurd (CHETVW007)*

nice build
for the exhaust why not try the raceland header. just got for an engine build I'm doing and the fit is good


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## No post counting (Oct 15, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Great build man! When it's time for my rebuild I will definitely use this for a reference! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## hypothetical (Oct 20, 2006)

*Re: wurd (CHETVW007)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CHETVW007* »_
Dont go Megasquirt...stay with the motronic...just have Collen at TT burn you chip based on your setup.....hes great with programing chips for motronic...and its so much easier

What HP are you getting with the Collen custom tune on Motronic? Stand Alone has a steeper learning curve because you actually have to learn how to tune, but it is far more flexible and can usually produce better/more HP.


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## boost is better (May 26, 2007)

Just a quick question why didn't you use a ABA metal head gasket?


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (boost is better)*


_Quote, originally posted by *boost is better* »_Just a quick question why didn't you use a ABA metal head gasket?

I thought about that, and most everything I read said if you do, you need to retorque the head after X amount of miles. I'm going NA with stock intake and do not want to have to retorque the head if the stock gasket will do the job. My compression ratio came out to right at 10.80:1 and I used OE head gasket and OE head bolts. I hope I made the right choice.
If I was going turbo I would have used a metal gasket and APR.


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## jijohans (Jan 18, 2004)

What NM did you use on the main bearings?


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## hypothetical (Oct 20, 2006)

*Re: (jijohans)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jijohans* »_What NM did you use on the main bearings?

That should be 65Nm or 48 FtLbs. Anything more will induce too much stretch and compromise/yield the bolts.
*On another note:* I have looked over the photos you posted OP and I am a little concerned that you didn't lube the cam bearing surfaces before installing them. I see lube on the cam lodes in some pics but not on our coming out of the bearing surfaces. I am certain I am wrong and you lubed it all up good, but if not might do it up or you'll scar the bearing surfaces.


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## vfercho73 (Aug 14, 2003)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*

hi, do you mind sharing part #s for the 3 coolant hoses on the oil warmer?
regards


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (vfercho73)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vfercho73* »_hi, do you mind sharing part #s for the 3 coolant hoses on the oil warmer?
regards



027-121-053B and 037-121-058


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*

ok time for a update,
One thing on the cam to cam timing, it seems easier to me to put the cam seal in after you finally get the cams timed and in place because, taking them in/out and moving them around etc., I put a little nick on the outer surface area, so I just installed a new seal after I got the cams situated and that was easy enough. 
I put the valve cover on, pretty basic. The valve cover gasket does not like to lay flat all around the cover but I'm sure thats the way they are on all of them. I put a little sealant in some of the stubborn areas and torqued it down, thought for sure I was gonna strip some threads before I got to the proper torque, a little scary, but the gasket does compress nicely, although it does give that oh no, feeling. Just follow the sequence in the Bentley on tightening sequence and torque.
Since nobody makes a "great" header at a price in my budget, and I'm not completely sold on the Raceland Header idea yet, I'm gonna follow the TT Tuning philosophy and go with the OE exhaust manifold with the TT downpipe and exhaust system- as they state the differenence in power bewteen the 2 is quite small. So I had my OE exhaust manifold baked and blasted, and here is how it looked when I picked it up from the machine shop
















That can sitting beside the manifold is 1200 degree, exhaust manifold/header paint which I ordered from Eastwood, comes in spray or brush on and after a couple of coats, looks like this. This is the medium gray, there is 1 darker and 1 lighter.








I cleaned up the front coolant flange for the head, but the one for the side of the head was obviously replaced before as its made out of the plastic crap which I hate, so If ANYBODY, has a aluminum side coolant flange or know where I can get one, please let me know as I will not use this plastic one.








I used my 20,000 rpm Dremel for the flange hose area on the coolant flange, and for the black coolant pipe. On the coolant pipe I cut off the threaded studs for the old wire hold downs and cleaned the rust/corrosion off the ends. 
















I'll might cut this outlet off and have it welded up, because I'm thinking of going without the coolant reservoir.


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## CHETVW007 (Jul 25, 2001)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*

yep...you cant go wrong with this set up.








too bad its now $310...woah!


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (CHETVW007)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CHETVW007* »_yep...you cant go wrong with this set up.








too bad its now $310...woah!

yea, I think the one I need is 275.00


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*

little update, found a 2.0 16V Alternator Bracket and cut it up because I did not want to pay the big bucks for the OEM no a/c, no p/s bracket. Thanks to "punchthefish" (great seller). 








and after some hi-temp engine paint








and installed
http://i11.photobucket.com/alb...4.jpg
I'm gonna reuse the metal coolant flange for the front of the head because I hate those new plastic ones. It was slightly pitted in some areas, so I filled the pits in with JB Weld and sanded it smooth and then installed it, and then connected the new hose that connects the water pump, the oil cooler, and the flange.
as it sits now








If Anybody has a metal flange for the side of the head that they want to sell_ please_ let me know. I am looking for the one that is a single outlet for the side of the head. cylinder head to heater core.


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## CHETVW007 (Jul 25, 2001)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*

Whats the gray plastic piece sticking out of your crank case breather?








I dont recall mine having that.


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (CHETVW007)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CHETVW007* »_Whats the gray plastic piece sticking out of your crank case breather?








I dont recall mine having that.

check out this thread 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4015961


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## Sallad (Aug 29, 2004)

*Re: (Big CADDY)*

Shouldn't there be a nice crosshatch honing marks in there, not nice and smooth?


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (Sallad)*

Yes, and there is, you just can't see it from all the reflection of the flash from the camera in that shot.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*

Any updates?


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## datdude1 (Sep 13, 2007)

*Re:*

nice build but were is the lube? need lube in those mains and especially the cam caps.BTW those pistons and rings should of been saturated in oil preferably 5w20 good break in oil. DRY ENGINE start up http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
cheers tho










_Modified by datdude1 at 6:15 PM 9-12-2009_


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (schwartzmagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *schwartzmagic* »_Any updates?

No new progress as far as the engine. Pulled the gas tank and cleaned out all the old gas and that will be going back in soon. Next I'm gonna pull the main pump and get the fuel out of the housing.
Long story but the VW trans shop that was building my trans was broken into and they stole about 30 VW air and water cooled trans, including mine. So I'm looking for a GTI 16V Trans 020 2Y to begin another rebuild. Anybody have one let me know.


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: Re: (datdude1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *datdude1* »_nice build but were is the lube? need lube in those mains and especially the cam caps.BTW those pistons and rings should of been saturated in oil preferably 5w20 good break in oil. DRY ENGINE start up http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
cheers tho









_Modified by datdude1 at 6:15 PM 9-12-2009_

There is lube, mains, rods, cam caps, etc. I did not include _every_ picture. Depending on the application I used a different percentage mixture of straight STP oil treatment (good and sticky) and molybdenum disulfide on the main, rod, and cam bearing caps, and then as you can see I covered the cam lobes with assembly lube/paste. I prefer not to _saturate_ the pistons in oil. The piston rings were not _dry_ when installed, and the cylinders walls were coated with oil prior to installing the pistons.


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## datdude1 (Sep 13, 2007)

*Re: Re: (16ValveInside)*

cool man just checking i rebuild engines everyday now so i am a bit of a pestamest if you know what i mean. Nice build looks like she is going to run strong http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: Re: (datdude1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *datdude1* »_cool man just checking i rebuild engines everyday now so i am a bit of a pestamest if you know what i mean. Nice build looks like she is going to run strong http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I understand. I'm thinking I may be able to just spin the intermediate shaft to prime that oil pump and get some oil pressure prior to starting when that day finally comes. Then check the timing marks, tension the belt and fire it up. Anybody tried this?


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## datdude1 (Sep 13, 2007)

*Re: Re: (16ValveInside)*

it should not matter if everything is assembled with lube ur start up will be successful. what i usually do prior to start up is just turn the engine over 2 times (with oil in it) make sure my marks are aligned properly and give her a couple of cranks with the fuel pump relay disconnected and then give her fire works every time. good luck cheers










_Modified by datdude1 at 5:34 PM 9-13-2009_


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## Aladinsane07 (Jan 10, 2007)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16ValveInside* »_
Long story but the VW trans shop that was building my trans was broken into and they stole about 30 VW air and water cooled trans, including mine. So I'm looking for a GTI 16V Trans 020 2Y to begin another rebuild. Anybody have one let me know.

No kidding? That's a bad turn of events. Hope you find a replacement soon.


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## NewUnit16 (Dec 10, 2008)

*Re: (Aladinsane07)*

id check around locally, chances are someone has about 30 different transmissions for sale that could kill two birds with one stone, ya know? 
that really sucks. hope they were insured. this thing is going to scream.
any particular reason why you going with the stock 16v intake? seems it would benefit from a more flowing intake... those ports look too clean.


_Modified by NewUnit16 at 11:07 AM 9-14-2009_


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## vwgolf_519 (Dec 8, 2006)

*Re: (NewUnit16)*

are you using an ABA bottom with the oil squirters, or does the 9a block also come with oil squirters 
nice build BTW


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (vwgolf_519)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwgolf_519* »_are you using an ABA bottom with the oil squirters, or does the 9a block also come with oil squirters 
nice build BTW


this is the 2.0 9A block and it came stock with oil squirters, 
thanks


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## VWCLUTCHWORKS (Sep 13, 2002)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*

WOW Good job i like to see fellow dubber do the right job the first time.
down to the new hose, that's how you do it! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## cyclops594 (Sep 29, 2005)

*Re: (VWCLUTCHWORKS)*

I just went through this whole thread & I must say...
thank you for your attention to detail & also your documentation.
This will go a long way for me & others looking to tackle this 
job soon.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
You ever get your 2Y? I know of one locally here if not.
Either way GL. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (cyclops594)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cyclops594* »_I just went through this whole thread & I must say...
thank you for your attention to detail & also your documentation.
This will go a long way for me & others looking to tackle this 
job soon.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
You ever get your 2Y? I know of one locally here if not.
Either way GL. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Thanks and yes I did find me a 2Y trans. I found one in Cincinnatti, Ohio, and now its in Columbus. It was just recently disassembled so the rebuild will begin soon. Going to go with a 3.94 R&P and change 5th gear, maybe 4th also, but we'll see. Meanwhile still collecting misc items for the engine, (still looking for the dreaded coolant flange, but I have time) like stuff I will need for the MegaSquirt install, and reading the MegaManual. Can't wait to get the trans mated to the engine and get the drivetrain installed, which means I'm going to need mounts, axles, clutch setup...


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## cleanA3 (Jun 23, 2007)

Great so far , makes me want to go work on my 1.8 that is on the engine stand . allways waiting for parts . Nice to see the 16v people staying strong


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## FLATBLACKMK2 (Oct 10, 2003)

*Re: The 16ValveInside Engine Assembly Thread (16ValveInside)*

watched............. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 8716vrocco (Feb 12, 2001)

*Re: The 16ValveInside Engine Assembly Thread (FLATBLACKMK2)*

nice build so far, very clean. you seem to be way too worried about the plastic coolant flange though, almost every car company uses plenty of plastic engine pieces. in the 5 years i have been wrenching i have never seen a plastic housing leak or break for that matter. just saying, good luck on the rest of the build http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## cleanA3 (Jun 23, 2007)

Going back thur your build , Mine is very close to yours but im doing a 1.8 pl mtr, 
My ? is that on your plug for the int shaft it looks like there is a spring thing under the plug. My 1.8 didnt have any thing close top that, it was just the plug that you put the green O-ring on and put it in . Is that the differeance of the pl to a 9A motor . 
Nice build keep it going


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (cleanA3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cleanA3* »_Going back thur your build , Mine is very close to yours but im doing a 1.8 pl mtr, 
My ? is that on your plug for the int shaft it looks like there is a spring thing under the plug. My 1.8 didnt have any thing close top that, it was just the plug that you put the green O-ring on and put it in . Is that the differeance of the pl to a 9A motor . 
Nice build keep it going 

Must be, its a one piece cover/plate and its original to this engine. Maybe someone else can verify that the 1.8 was different


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

*Re: (16ValveInside)*

Ok finally some more progress. Yea, I know this is taking forever. Anyway, I got my timing belt on and distributer installed. I went with a genuine Bosch Reman unit instead of one of the new aftermarket ones. Aligned all the TDC marks and I used the top left, and lower right mounting holes for the distributer, rotated the case so the rotor points to the hash mark and torqued it down. 
















Now this is what I have been waiting for. Thanks to Brian at http://www.brokevw.com, my trans has arrived. What a great guy to work with. We went with a 3.94 Ring & Pinion instead of the stock 3.67, changed 5th gear ratio, used a Peloquin Bolt Kit and 80% shim kit, and then every bearing, circlip, sync ring + key + spring, seal, gasket, thrust washer, etc. in the trans has been replaced. Everything short of the shafts, hubs, gears (except 5th and the R&P), forks, and casing basically.








now its finally time to get the engine off the engine stand








I wanted to torque everything down on the the front of the engine before installing it in the car. I used the pressure plate trick with the bolt and the wrench in the pressure plate to keep the engine from turning when I installed and torqued the pressure plate mounting bolts, but I wasn't sure I wanted to trust that when I tighten and torque down that front crank gear/hub. I use to build/race high performance air-cooled bugs and have a lot of air cooled stuff boxed up and pulled out a air cooled flywheel lock for tightening the VW Gland nut/flywheel bolt. I just cut a piece of aluminum plate, drilled some holes and figured out a way to mount the flywheel lock to it and it worked. It would be better to cut the plate out of metal if I had to do it again, but it worked.








My front crank bolt was the 12 sided w/collar so the torque was 66 ft lbs + 1/2 turn 








next step is install the exhaust manifold and rear engine mount bracket, bolt the trans to the engine and put this thing in the car http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nykid10466 (Mar 9, 2008)

Im loving It.....thinking about building up a 16v this summer for a A2 Gti.....just asking, how rare are those 9a block ? and how much hp do you expect to get out of this ?


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## CanadianCabby (Sep 1, 2006)

9a's are not rare at all... most b3 passat's have them


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## cleanA3 (Jun 23, 2007)

Looking good


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## thatGTIguy (Feb 2, 2010)

Sweet build.. lots of good info here.. will keep this one for when I rebuild my 16v


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## Sparknock (Feb 25, 2004)

i remember the days i spent rebuilding my 16v. in the shop late hours of the night with some buddies and some good work music. 
great build btw. i dont have a ring spreader i use my fingers. i could see how that could go wrong.


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## brandon0808 (Mar 19, 2009)

Any updates? Nice project btw:thumbup:


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## bluebug300 (Jun 30, 2007)

Bump :thumbup:


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

OK, its finally in the car. I've got a lot more work to do but at least its now off the engine stand, off the floor, and in the car.


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)




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## brosef (Mar 10, 2008)

I love this thread. So you just tapped the block and screwed in the metal oil dipstick housing? Where did you get this piece sir? 
:thumbup:


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

brosef said:


> I love this thread. So you just tapped the block and screwed in the metal oil dipstick housing? Where did you get this piece sir?
> :thumbup:


Are you talking about the dipstick tube? I just cleaned the splines on the end of the tube, put some sealant on it and slowly knocked it in with a small hammer. Its best to install the dipstick tube before you put the oil pan on because I can see how some small pieces of junk could drop in when you do this.


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## cleanA3 (Jun 23, 2007)

looking great , love what you have done


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## bru-CTi (Sep 6, 2007)

wow, looking great mate!

i am doing a build too, yours has helped me a lot so far!

just a question, i am busy with an ABF build, my water pump pulley is different to yours, mine takes a plat belt, similar to that of the cam belt but the ribs run lengthwise instead of across..why are you using the standard one? is it because you have the alternator that suits or that just what other non ABF motors have?


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## CanadianCabby (Sep 1, 2006)

abf uses a serp belt.. the 9a used a v belt...


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

CanadianCabby said:


> abf uses a serp belt.. the 9a used a v belt...


exactly :thumbup:


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

PM sent about the heat shield. And if you have the time and extra money, do the MS. It is worth every cent. The tune can be altered as needed and no need to depend on someone else for a "custom" tune.


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## CHETVW007 (Jul 25, 2001)

any updates?


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

CHETVW007 said:


> any updates?



Not a lot happening lately, changed jobs and been busy at work. 
I did finally find a good used Ross Machine Racing fuel rail, and I got the intake cleaned and installed.

I'll post some pics up soon:beer:


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## CHETVW007 (Jul 25, 2001)

Is this orange o-ring neccessary? know the part#? my parts guy couldnt find it. 








need part# for this oil cooler o-ring...i like this style better with the holes to hold it in place, better than the ones that come in the kits. 








and this green o-ring in the oil pump "pressure relief"


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

The orange o-ring on the dipstick tube is actually a bead of GM High Temp red/orange Silicon. 

The Oil Cooler seal came with the Oil Cooler that I got from part4vws.com which is sadly out of business at this point, but it was a German Brand Cooler. I think any new german oil cooler would come with this style o-ring. 

The green o-ring on the round block off plate thingy, is a distributer o-ring. When I removed the round plate tearing this engine down it had a paper gasket under it and this engine had never been apart. My engine gasket set did not have one in it, and could not find a part number for it, There is some info on this somewhere in my build thread as there was another guy looking for one. Anyway I was just checking things in the gasket set and the distributer o-ring was a good fit so I thought I would use it.


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## CaliCoupe (Aug 11, 2009)

must say I've learned alot reading your thread, kudos:thumbup:


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## notajetta (Nov 17, 2007)

lots of great info in here! thanks for all your hard work!


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

notajetta said:


> lots of great info in here! thanks for all your hard work!


x2 opcorn: In the process myself :beer:


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## MEGA 16v GLI (Aug 31, 2010)

Sweet Build man. I like your style. Protectionist for life.

I hope you go with the Mega Squirt EFI. You will be able to tune that beautiful engine perfectly. There are a few guys on here that will be able to help if you have questions. 

Good luck with everything.


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## ekua516 (Feb 29, 2008)

*16 valve*

great build man..:thumbup::thumbup:its just what i want to do with my spare engine.:laugh:good luck with it.


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## LT1M21Stingray (Sep 14, 2006)

16ValveInside said:


> The orange o-ring on the dipstick tube is actually a bead of GM High Temp red/orange Silicon.
> 
> The Oil Cooler seal came with the Oil Cooler that I got from part4vws.com which is sadly out of business at this point, but it was a German Brand Cooler. I think any new german oil cooler would come with this style o-ring.
> 
> The green o-ring on the round block off plate thingy, is a distributer o-ring. When I removed the round plate tearing this engine down it had a paper gasket under it and this engine had never been apart. My engine gasket set did not have one in it, and could not find a part number for it, There is some info on this somewhere in my build thread as there was another guy looking for one. Anyway I was just checking things in the gasket set and the distributer o-ring was a good fit so I thought I would use it.


Dealer has these items for cheap.


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## still_a_G (Jun 23, 2008)

16ValveInside said:


>



How often do people run with just one of these items? I only have the gasket/pan on mine right now.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

still_a_G said:


> How often do people run with just one of these items? I only have the gasket/pan on mine right now.


I have one going on mine


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## Jacob Matthew (Sep 27, 2009)

Awesome thread! :thumbup:


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## still_a_G (Jun 23, 2008)

Sr. Karmann said:


> I have one going on mine



Well I can see as how it would prevent starvation on high G turns but how many people go without the plastic piece and just rely on the gasket pan?


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

still_a_G said:


> Well I can see as how it would prevent starvation on high G turns but how many people go without the plastic piece and just rely on the gasket pan?


not really what either piece is for... the windage tray is in there to keep the oil in the pan and from sloshing all over the crank and the baffle to keep from sloshing side to side rapidly. it doesn't seal so if you were in a high G turn for a while you still may starve the pump, but it would have to be pretty extreme IMHO


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## bru-CTi (Sep 6, 2007)

hey bud, awesome build once again! 

just a question, you not running the timing belt covers?


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

bru-CTi said:


> hey bud, awesome build once again!
> 
> just a question, you not running the timing belt covers?


 The lower cover is on, you can see it in the last pic. As much of a pain as it would be to install it later, with the engine in the car, I figured best to put it on prior to installing the engine. I was going to go without it, but changed my mine. I've got the upper cover too but its just not on yet. As much as I hate to cover up that cool looking cam gear. I'll probably run the upper most of the time.


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## Fizzo20 (Mar 29, 2010)

Wow I just read through the entire thread and learned a lot! :thumbup: 
Again, thanks for all your hard work! 

This scares me a bit though cause I wanna do a 16vt build over the next year or two, and being 17, it seems impossible due to time, financial and skill limitations. :banghead: Any suggestions? Oh well, I guess if the build takes longer, so be it, it'll be worth it


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

Just received some injector cups/holders from german auto parts and instead of the dark gray/black ones they show on their site, these are white. Anyway, I used a 3/8" drive 10mm allen socket to install. The Bentley says to use thread locking compound, I used blue locktite, and it also says to torque to 20 Nm / 15 ft lbs. I dont think I even got close to 20 Nm, I tightened them up until they felt real tight and then gave them a extra 1/4 turn. Checked one after the initial install and it was not 20 Nm, but I don't think these plastic inserts would hold that kind of torque. This is the torque listed for a 8V Digi II system, and of course I using Digi II inserts in a 16V engine so maybe there is a difference, but they are tight and I've got blue locktite on the threads.



















After searching the classifieds for weeks I finally found a good used Ross Machine Racing fuel rail. They still list the fuel pressure regulator adapter on their website but they are awfully pround of it as the price is 45.00, so unless I can find a good used one I'll go with a separate aftermarket regulator. But I do like this fuel rail.










I gave up looking for a metal/aluminum coolant flange for the end of the head. I had the original for the front/side of the head that I used. Its just the price that people wanted for a used single outlet metal/aluminum one that turned me away, so I just went the a new plastic one for $6.95.










Another torque issue on this flange, the Bentley says 10 Nm / 87 in. lb., I got it tight, but did not go to 10 Nm. I do have a light coat of Curil K2 on it, but if it leaks maybe I 'll hit it up to 10 Nm, but you know that feel that its tight and you think if you go any tighter its going to strip, thats where it is.

Still reading up on Megasquirt and I have a working list of things I need that is still changing, and trying to figure out which injectors to go with right now, any suggestions?


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## MEGA 16v GLI (Aug 31, 2010)

I went with the Genesis 315cc High impedance injectors from USRT. 

check them out 

http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10_44&products_id=344 

The injectors are actually Red/Orange not Black like the picture shows. 

They Fire Factory correct Duel Spray cones.


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## gott9262 (May 25, 2008)

Jacob Matthew said:


> Awesome thread! :thumbup:


 Another big fan here:wave: I have a prepped and ready 9a block on my engine stand right now as well!!! A couple questions, What cams are you going with? And the machine shop also told me the stock pistons and cylinder bores were A.O.K. And you are reusing your stock pistons as well? How did you clean them up so well??? Mine have scuff marks on the front and back. Yours look Money


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## Fast929 (Nov 13, 2004)

If your looking for a set of injectors, I have a brand new set of 315cc Genesis injectors still in the plastic I need to sell. 

Going FI so I need to step up to 630's or bigger. PM me if intersted. 


Build looks great. I went with the same config with the windage tray and 2L pump w/baffle. Should work very well.


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

gott9262 said:


> Another big fan here:wave: I have a prepped and ready 9a block on my engine stand right now as well!!! A couple questions, What cams are you going with? And the machine shop also told me the stock pistons and cylinder bores were A.O.K. And you are reusing your stock pistons as well? How did you clean them up so well??? Mine have scuff marks on the front and back. Yours look Money


 I went with the Autotech cams. I had the machine shop clean up the pistons, they also honed, cleaned, baked, and decked the block.


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## CHETVW007 (Jul 25, 2001)

16ValveInside said:


> I went with the Autotech cams. I had the machine shop clean up the pistons, they also honed, cleaned, baked, and decked the block.


 How much did they deck off the block? And your head was resurfaced too right? Should raise the comp. a little....nice :thumbup:


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

CHETVW007 said:


> How much did they deck off the block? And your head was resurfaced too right? Should raise the comp. a little....nice :thumbup:


 My local Machine Shop just barely skimmed it to clean up the surface and make sure it was level, was not done to raise the compression. The head work, porting/polishing, etc, was done in New York by Brad Brooks at Scooter Racing, but same thing applied, head surface was just checked to make sure mating suface was straight and level and then cleaned up. My compression ratio worked out to be 10.80:1


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## theillusionofsafety (Feb 27, 2007)

just read through the thread. awesome build! can't wait to see it done! :thumbup:


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## GTIINSIDE (May 17, 2008)

this is what i call super clean job


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## BastardDuck (Dec 10, 2006)

Nice build...can I ask you the part number of the water pump pulley you are using?


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

BastardDuck said:


> Nice build...can I ask you the part number of the water pump pulley you are using?


Solid Water Pump Pulley - 027-121-031


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## MEGA 16v GLI (Aug 31, 2010)

16ValveInside said:


> Just received some injector cups/holders from german auto parts and instead of the dark gray/black ones they show on their site, these are white. Anyway, I used a 3/8" drive 10mm allen socket to install. The Bentley says to use thread locking compound, I used blue locktite, and it also says to torque to 20 Nm / 15 ft lbs. I dont think I even got close to 20 Nm, I tightened them up until they felt real tight and then gave them a extra 1/4 turn. Checked one after the initial install and it was not 20 Nm, but I don't think these plastic inserts would hold that kind of torque. This is the torque listed for a 8V Digi II system, and of course I using Digi II inserts in a 16V engine so maybe there is a difference, but they are tight and I've got blue locktite on the threads.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Have you ever thought about making your own coolant flange for the end of your head.

I think it would actually be pretty easy. My friends a machinist so he's going to machine out the aluminum parts i will need to make a coolant flange. Then i will TIG weld the parts together.

I will post a pic of it when i'm done.


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## rdezsofi (Sep 21, 2010)

*oil prime*

You mentioned in an earlier post about possibly spinning the pump gear before firing it up.....I've found a 6 point socket that just fits over it works well. Takes bout 10 seconds and you'll feel the pressure build. Wouldn't start a new engine without doing that


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## revolution_Jd3 (Jan 13, 2007)

keep on truckin... great thread:thumbup::beer:opcorn:


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## ramblin99 (May 15, 2006)

You're inspiring man!!


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## NewUnit16 (Dec 10, 2008)

anything new?


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

NewUnit16 said:


> anything new?


 yes, started a new thread since the engine & trans are in the car. still looking for a heat shield that bolts to the back of the block/covers the cv boot and still need the lower trans bell housing cover. 

check this thread 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5299574-16Valve-is-Inside-Time-For-Externals


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

That shield you are looking for would be on a 84-89 Scirocco and the 85-92 Golf/jetta's. pn 191407721F. Shame they are diff than the ones on the ABA's. Although I was able to make the ABA one fit on my 80 Rabbit. It will bolt up OK, it just rubs on the header w/o an adjustment.


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## 16ValveInside (Nov 20, 2004)

ps2375 said:


> That shield you are looking for would be on a 84-89 Scirocco and the 85-92 Golf/jetta's. pn 191407721F. Shame they are diff than the ones on the ABA's. Although I was able to make the ABA one fit on my 80 Rabbit. It will bolt up OK, it just rubs on the header w/o an adjustment.


 
I had one that I bought of a guy who had a 8V Jetta, the part number was 191-407-721F and the bolt pattern was different, it would not fit. The 2.0 16V is different but I do not have the part number.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

That is the only number listed for the 8V and the 16V cars....


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## dustinhxc (Mar 15, 2004)

very nice man!


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## jimothy cricket (Jul 9, 2008)

I am impressed! But now I feel doomed because I have no idea how to do most of this stuff 

whatever Ill learn


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## mpr3ssiv (May 3, 2011)

:thumbup:


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