# Valve Cover problems on MKV R32



## RuckFules32 (Oct 8, 2012)

I've got this vacuum leak in my car and took it to my mechanic. We thought it was the PCV. He changed that and it worked for a good couple of minutes before I took it on a test drive and got the same problem. They took apart the engine and figured it to be the diaphragm inside the valve cover. I'm looking at over $300 for the whole valve cover. Is there anyway I can purchase than inner part and replace just that? I don't know what it's called and I'm not too savvy when it comes to dealing w/the engine.


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## VW-R32-UG (Mar 29, 2013)

I seem to have the same problem on my car, just appeared a couple of days ago, but before I do change the valve cover, would you have a picture of the PCV valve you changed, showing where it is? I looked online but no luck. I figured I could change it as well see if it's what it is first. I'd rather do it myself and not get ripped off by my mechanic.


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## RuckFules32 (Oct 8, 2012)

I just found a picture online and edited it to show the location. Took me forever to figure out how to get into my old photobucket haha. Hope replacing that works for you. If not, then it's the diaphragm in the Valve Cover.


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## BMBLE B (Dec 7, 2005)

That part on the top of the intake manifold does not have a diaphram in it. It is just a hose with a sensor attached. Has orings on both ends though, we replaced one thinking it would be our issue but it was not. 

Have you replaced the v/c yet, looks like we need to replace this (stolen from a TT 3.2)










Not sure what issue you were having but we have heavy misfires on multiple cylinders and a code for this:
16891/P0507/001287 - Idle Control System RPM: Higher than Expected.

Calls for checking for vac leaks and or tb alignment. Check the tb and did an alignment, no change.

We can hear air being sucked in and it turns out it is from this tiny hole on the v/c which I would guess is attached to that crankcase vent valve:








That's why we guess it's vac related. Also we cannot remove the oil filler cap the car running. Not sure if that's normal or not.


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## BMBLE B (Dec 7, 2005)

Car is apart, we've ordered a valve cover, coming from Germany. There were none in the USA. 5-30 days away.


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## OUG13 (Dec 29, 2011)

BMBLE B 
I'm having the same issue. So, hopefully your fix will work, please post and let us know how it worked. 
Thanks


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## BMBLE B (Dec 7, 2005)

Got the valve cover yesterday, came super fast. It's $386 list though  

Should get to work on it this weekend. Will def keep this thread updated.


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## Scuba2001 (Jul 16, 2002)

Is that lower section not available separate from the valve cover? $400 is an expensive fix. Yesh


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## BMBLE B (Dec 7, 2005)

Good news, the car is fixed. Our problem was that crankcase vent valve. Took a few days to tear the car apart (removed the front end) which perhaps didn't need to happen but we needed to replace one of the fans as well so it wasn't the worst thing ever. 



Scuba2001 said:


> Is that lower section not available separate from the valve cover? $400 is an expensive fix. Yesh


 The valve is physically able to be separated however the part number is not available from VW separate.


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## msandonato23 (May 6, 2012)

BMLE B my car is making a hissing sound at idle that sounds like its coming from inside the passenger dash. Did you have similar symptoms that the valve cover and crank vent valve cured?


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## waabaah (Jun 24, 2006)

Can't give you the info your looking for, BUT I can help you find that hiss better since they are hard to find. 

Grab a spare piece of hose that you have lying around. Put one end of hose to your ear, put the other end to the general area where you think the hissing is coming from. You can trace down leaks super easy this way. You'll hear the hissing echoing through the hose. 

Most also know about spraying carb cleaner around general area and see if idle changes. This can cause issues if you accobdebtally speay on something hot and is quite messy.


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## BMBLE B (Dec 7, 2005)

msandonato23 said:


> BMLE B my car is making a hissing sound at idle that sounds like its coming from inside the passenger dash. Did you have similar symptoms that the valve cover and crank vent valve cured?


 If you still have the sound pipe that runs into the firewall my guess is you have an issue there, not with the crankcase vent valve


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## msandonato23 (May 6, 2012)

pcv maybe? noob question, but since i have stock intake (looking to cure that issue soon lol) could i do the noise pipe delete..?


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## RuckFules32 (Oct 8, 2012)

Sorry for the late reply. I haven't had the money to fix the car so I've been working my butt off to get the cash. It definitely was the valve cover for me. Got it for $308. It had to be sent from Germany as well. We just got the valve cover in yesterday and replaced it. Everything is fine and dandy now. It just sucks the part I needed didn't have a separate part number. Thank you BMBLE B for providing information and keeping everybody updated on the post. I wish my problem was just the crankcase vent valve haha. What did you end up doing with the valve cover you ordered? did you replace it anyways? If not, you might wanna keep it handy, because that could be the problem if you experience the vacuum leak again. Any word on your fix OUG13?


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## BMBLE B (Dec 7, 2005)

Yeah the crankcase vent valve is not available separate from the valve cover on these cars. I would imagine it would save at least $100. Oh well, it is what it is.


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## elMacJunkie (Oct 18, 2007)

RuckFules32 said:


> Sorry for the late reply. I haven't had the money to fix the car so I've been working my butt off to get the cash. It definitely was the valve cover for me. Got it for $308. It had to be sent from Germany as well. We just got the valve cover in yesterday and replaced it. Everything is fine and dandy now. It just sucks the part I needed didn't have a separate part number. Thank you BMBLE B for providing information and keeping everybody updated on the post. I wish my problem was just the crankcase vent valve haha. What did you end up doing with the valve cover you ordered? did you replace it anyways? If not, you might wanna keep it handy, because that could be the problem if you experience the vacuum leak again. Any word on your fix OUG13?




what kind of symptoms did you have ? 

I think my car my have the same problem, the car will start to have a rought idle when in park or just stopped, but when driving its fine. My CEL is on and codes are P0171 and P0174 System too lean (Bank 1, 2)
When i open the hood there is a loud hissing sound and it's coming from that tiny hole on top of the valve cover, as in the picture above. I can put my finder on the hole and the noise stops.


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## BMBLE B (Dec 7, 2005)

These seem to be the symptoms of the bad crankcase vent valve, please keep in mind you're methods my vary:

Strange suction noise from just above the hose connection on the valve cover (though the small hole as indicated above)

Oil cap impossible to remove while car is running

Heavy and radical misfires

Excessive oil consumption and oil in intake and throttle body


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## Eric D (Feb 16, 1999)

That is a cyclone oil separator, yeah it stings that it isn't sold separately.


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## BMBLE B (Dec 7, 2005)

Fancy name for the crankcase vent valve lol


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## elMacJunkie (Oct 18, 2007)

i had a friend that works at a local vw dealer check it out and he capped the vacuum line going to the intake and made a temp catch can for the vent valve. 
Car is running good now, no CEL. :thumbup: 
I might just get an actual catch can and run it this way, then replace the valve cover at a later time.


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## Eric D (Feb 16, 1999)

Might want to add a steel mesh like that found in the mk4 valve covers.
Then plug the tiny hole with round stock or weld it.


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## elMacJunkie (Oct 18, 2007)

what is the steel mesh for ?


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

For the oil vapour to condense on and drip back down, rather then be pushed into the PCV system.


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## typeSLone (Feb 8, 2002)

FYI, we have seen about 3 mkV R32's in the shop this year (I work for a vw dealer) that had faulty valve covers. All had rough idles, some had codes stored (lean codes and idle adaptation) and some surprisingly didn't.


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## BMBLE B (Dec 7, 2005)

typeSLone said:


> FYI, we have seen about 3 mkV R32's in the shop this year (I work for a vw dealer) that had faulty valve covers. All had rough idles, some had codes stored (lean codes and idle adaptation) and some surprisingly didn't.


Good to know, thank you. I've talked with several people at different VW dealers, two mechanics and one service guy. None of them had heard of the issues before I witnessed it.


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## ronin1 (Feb 5, 2006)

Dang!

Now I have this problem!

A few weeks ago I was driving around and when I was at a light I heard my engine rev but I thought I accidentley put my foot on the accelerator. So then I noticed the car was idling erratically at low speeds. Of course I was about a hundred miles from home at the time which was not the greatest but I drove it back here on mostly the highway where it was ok.

So at first they replaced the PCV valve but when I picked it up the other day as soon as I started it at the dealer the CEL came on and I had the same idling issue. :banghead:

So I left it there and they ended up having to order the cover. It came in and I'm waiting for them to install/test it.

But it has not been a great year for R repairs for me. A few months ago I had problems with the fuel pump which were finally resolved (my car actually gets the best gas mileage ever since that repair).


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## BMBLE B (Dec 7, 2005)

ronin1 said:


> So at first they replaced the PCV valve but when I picked it up the other day as soon as I started it at the dealer the CEL came on and I had the same idling issue. :banghead:


Is there a part number on this? Not sure of any PCV valve in the system.


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## SawULook (Dec 9, 2011)

Okay, just starting to have an issue with my 08 R32 - started about 3 days ago when I was out with my 2 boys and the car started making some weird noises in the engine, then all of a sudden it started to have a weird idle. I took it to a local shop in Huntington Beach and the tech automatically said it was the valve cover. He said it was some type of plunger or something inside of the valve cover making it not relieve the crank case, even showed me that he could barely take off the oil cap. So, I was quoted $750 which was $350 for the valve cover and $325 of labor and them telling me that the front end has to be taken apart and that the core support had to me move in order to get the intake off to get to the valve cover. 

Here is a link to what my car is doing on youtube, if you have had the same issues, please let me know and if the $750 is a decent price. I thought it was a little high, but not sure as I have never had any issues with this car until now.

http://youtu.be/I13aeihXBYI


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## SawULook (Dec 9, 2011)

RuckFules32 said:


> Sorry for the late reply. I haven't had the money to fix the car so I've been working my butt off to get the cash. It definitely was the valve cover for me. Got it for $308. It had to be sent from Germany as well. We just got the valve cover in yesterday and replaced it. Everything is fine and dandy now. It just sucks the part I needed didn't have a separate part number. Thank you BMBLE B for providing information and keeping everybody updated on the post. I wish my problem was just the crankcase vent valve haha. What did you end up doing with the valve cover you ordered? did you replace it anyways? If not, you might wanna keep it handy, because that could be the problem if you experience the vacuum leak again. Any word on your fix OUG13?


Is there anyway you can provide me with the store or website where you bought the valve cover from? I am in need of one bad - car is stating to annoy me. 

Thanks!


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## BMBLE B (Dec 7, 2005)

You will have to buy it from VW or Audi. 022 103 429 AA is the part number. Comes with valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals. When I ordered my brother in laws in April it was in Germany only. Was told it would take 4-6 weeks but it only took about 1. List is now $401.43

Try http://genuineaudiparts.com if you're on the West Coast, I use http://millburnaudiparts.com/ for East Coast parts. Contact Carson in parts there via email first to set you up with an account. Great prices and 1 day ground shipping for me in CT

BTW $750 is not a bad price. It is a pretty big PITA to get the intake manifold off. If you have a warm dry place to do it and are very handy, save yourself the money but if you don't have a toolbox full of VW/Audi tools (torx and allen bits) I would suggest dropping it of there.


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## dckeener (Jan 10, 2005)

Well i was thinking of converting to this valve cover on my Mkiv but now I don't think I am going to. Wont be able to trust any used ones and do not want to spend close to $400 for a new one. Guess I will stick with the stock one that has been fine for 181k. Can you guys convert to an older mliv style valve cover? might be an option to consider.


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## GT-ER (Feb 23, 2005)

Could I not remove this part from the valve cover and install a catch can to solve the issue for $100?


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## 24vGTiVR6 (Sep 14, 2010)

dckeener said:


> Can you guys convert to an older mliv style valve cover? might be an option to consider.


if you can install an MKV R valve cover onto a MKIV BDF or BJS, then one would assume that the opposite would be true. UNLESS it physically interferes with the stock MKV intake manifold (which it might).



GT-ER said:


> Could I not remove this part from the valve cover and install a catch can to solve the issue for $100?


if the internal valve assembly on the MKV valve cover isn't electronically actuated then I would assume yes. make sure the can has a good baffle.


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## SawULook (Dec 9, 2011)

Well it looks like I will have to drop the $700 Large on getting the valve cover replaced. I do not have any of the Tools, nor do I have the knowledge or really the time as I already work 7 days a week to do this Job. Since my last post, I capped off the PCV and just put a rag over the outlet of the valve cover and it still has the check engine light on, so I am hoping it will be fine when I have them install the new valve cover. 

Fingers crossed as I have to finally smog my car next month and I hope to god that it will pass after dropping this money on the valve cover. 

Wish me luck!


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## wichoz (Sep 14, 2011)

Hey Guys!!!

Today I started to hear air being sucked in from the tiny hole, does this means I need to order a new Engine Valve Cover? Car is running fine without any issue.

thanks in advance!


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## xVolksR32x (Aug 11, 2006)

did anyone say Gasket yet..... simple change. I know the one in the picture above looks good, however for the poster of this thread, it might just be his gasket....


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## 24vGTiVR6 (Sep 14, 2010)

wichoz said:


> Hey Guys!!!
> 
> Today I started to hear air being sucked in from the tiny hole, does this means I need to order a new Engine Valve Cover? Car is running fine without any issue.
> 
> thanks in advance!


no, and I wouldn't plug it as others have done. That small hole goes right to a port in the cyclone oil separator.


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## wichoz (Sep 14, 2011)

24vGTiVR6 said:


> no, and I wouldn't plug it as others have done. That small hole goes right to a port in the cyclone oil separator.


The tiny hole is suctioning alot of air, I can even hear it inside the cabin, like a whistle.


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## wichoz (Sep 14, 2011)




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## 24vGTiVR6 (Sep 14, 2010)

Holy crap there's no way there should be that much vacuum by your valve cover like that..... 

The cyclone separator or PCV valve (or both) must be clogged, causing a restriction and not allowing the crankcase to ventilate. You should definitely get that looked at.

FYI- once the valve cover is off there's about 4 small screws holding the cyclone unit in. Before I installed my MkV vc I took out the cyclone, cleaned it out with varsol and ran a little bit of vacuum through it to get everything out. Id try that before I buy a new vc (but definitely check the PCV as well).


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## MitchPope (Oct 25, 2008)

Look at the last few posts in the Whats wrong with your R32 thread in the R32 forum. Audi_Mechanic just explained the problem.

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## godzzila (Apr 9, 2012)

elMacJunkie said:


> i had a friend that works at a local vw dealer check it out and he capped the vacuum line going to the intake and made a temp catch can for the vent valve.
> Car is running good now, no CEL. :thumbup:
> I might just get an actual catch can and run it this way, then replace the valve cover at a later time.


I got the same problem...  Is this safe solution or could something be possibly damaged? (Dont care ECO... or smell)


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## elMacJunkie (Oct 18, 2007)

I've been running this setup for over a year, no issues yet. Maybe someday ill get the valve cover replaced...


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## godzzila (Apr 9, 2012)

elMacJunkie said:


> I've been running this setup for over a year, no issues yet. Maybe someday ill get the valve cover replaced...


Oh good news... I was woried about oil degrading or piston seals degrading etc.. So as soon as it will not be blocked it should be ok?


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## parklane (Feb 8, 2003)

Not sure if this is going to make a difference but which motor oils are you guys using? I'm wondering if the viscosity the dealers are putting in is leading to issues. There are VW certified oils that have a lighter viscosity on the market.


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## R32GRANT (Jul 8, 2015)

Quite an interesting read sorry for a blast from the past!

My friend is soon starting at VW so will be good to bear this in mind. I have a hissing noise from this area when I lift the bonnet but I don't have a rough idle and I don't believe I can hear this from the inside the cabin so far as I am aware I don't believe I have an issue as of yet. 

Hopefully I can get a discount on parts when he starts if it does go!

I need a new coilpack for cylinder 1 I know that much though..


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## gsxbozzy (Jul 22, 2015)

*How To?*



elMacJunkie said:


> i had a friend that works at a local vw dealer check it out and he capped the vacuum line going to the intake and made a temp catch can for the vent valve.
> Car is running good now, no CEL. :thumbup:
> I might just get an actual catch can and run it this way, then replace the valve cover at a later time.



Hi i think i have this problem due to me suffering heavy misfires and i cant get the oil cap off when idling.. Ive been told it could be this pcv problem.
How can i do what you have done at least it will tell me if it is that pcv before i pay out for new valve cover.

thanks


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## dezdamona345 (Jan 27, 2011)

If anybody wants to buy a valve cover with 100k on it that I cleaned up for cheap let me know. I just replaced mine!


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## vr6fanatic (Apr 5, 2003)

What are the torque specs for valve cover and intake manifold?


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## GT-ER (Feb 23, 2005)

vr6fanatic said:


> What are the torque specs for valve cover and intake manifold?


Snug + 1/4 turn.


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## pinoygti (Mar 21, 2011)

Anyone have know a link for diy for replacing the valve cover?


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## Todsgto (Dec 31, 2015)

*Question*

Hello,

I realize that your post is a few years old, but I have a 2006 Audi A3 3.2 with a failed PCV diaphragm. I am trying to find an inexpensive repair. I can see in you picture that you have a hose coming from the valve cover outlet to the can. I can see you have the original hose laying open in the photo. Did you cap that line off? Did you cap another line? Did you leave it that way or have the valve cover replaced. 

Thank you
Tod


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Tod, you have to cap that line off...Just did this temp fix my self. I just got a Pro-Vent catch-can(034 has them) to install soon. I've also ordered a new diaphragm for the failed one in the valve cover from a Russian dealer! If/when I ever take the engine apart, perhaps I'll install it! Although, if I can keep the Pro-Vent on and pass Calif. emissions, I will.




Todsgto said:


> Hello,
> 
> I realize that your post is a few years old, but I have a 2006 Audi A3 3.2 with a failed PCV diaphragm. I am trying to find an inexpensive repair. I can see in you picture that you have a hose coming from the valve cover outlet to the can. I can see you have the original hose laying open in the photo. Did you cap that line off? Did you cap another line? Did you leave it that way or have the valve cover replaced.
> 
> ...


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## Corrado1900T (Dec 2, 2002)

Eric D said:


> That is a cyclone oil separator, yeah it stings that it isn't sold separately.


Would you be able to gut that and put some sort of catch can set up in its place? Might save a couple hundred that way.


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## jetta_92gli (Apr 5, 2005)

RuckFules32 said:


> I just found a picture online and edited it to show the location. Took me forever to figure out how to get into my old photobucket haha. Hope replacing that works for you. If not, then it's the diaphragm in the Valve Cover.


I've been experiencing the same issues some have posted here. Started last year, once in a while I would get rough idle, needle going from 500 up to 1k the back down almost to a stall. It would not do it all the time, so never really got around to figuring out why. I did however had CEL, so when I had it serviced, I mentioned it to my mechanic who said it was a vacuum leak and it was throwing CEL. Don't know what he did but CEL was gone for like a month then came back. Been driving like that since last year. It started happening more often about two months ago, but after a few minutes it would go away. Lately, again rough idle, engine seems like it's jumping all over the place...so after I read this post I went out, put my finger in little breather hole by the oil cap and there was suction for a second or two, but nothing crazy like some have posted here. Then I removed the oil cap with no problem while engine running...car still idling rough. Tried to "feel" with fingers if there's a vacuum leak along the vacuum lines, nothing. Soooo then I found a fix! I hit the valve cover with my fist 3-4 times near where you circled on the picture, gently but firmly and idle went back to normal instantly! Went inside the car, idle is steady at around 8k! I can't believe it. I know there's something wrong, no doubt about it, but I got my car to idle somewhat normal. So next time you are idling rough, use your fist, worked for me :laugh::laugh:


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## jetta_92gli (Apr 5, 2005)

jetta_92gli said:


> I've been experiencing the same issues some have posted here. Started last year, once in a while I would get rough idle, needle going from 500 up to 1k the back down almost to a stall. It would not do it all the time, so never really got around to figuring out why. I did however had CEL, so when I had it serviced, I mentioned it to my mechanic who said it was a vacuum leak and it was throwing CEL. Don't know what he did but CEL was gone for like a month then came back. Been driving like that since last year. It started happening more often about two months ago, but after a few minutes it would go away. Lately, again rough idle, engine seems like it's jumping all over the place...so after I read this post I went out, put my finger in little breather hole by the oil cap and there was suction for a second or two, but nothing crazy like some have posted here. Then I removed the oil cap with no problem while engine running...car still idling rough. Tried to "feel" with fingers if there's a vacuum leak along the vacuum lines, nothing. Soooo then I found a fix! I hit the valve cover with my fist 3-4 times near where you circled on the picture, gently but firmly and idle went back to normal instantly! Went inside the car, idle is steady at around 8k! I can't believe it. I know there's something wrong, no doubt about it, but I got my car to idle somewhat normal. So next time you are idling rough, use your fist, worked for me :laugh::laugh:



Soo...after a few days of driving fine, symptoms came back, rough idle at stops. Does anyone know how to replace the hose circled in the picture above? I think it's called crankcase breather hose. Looks simple to replace by just pressing the clips but not sure if there's any special procedure for the one connecting to the top of the cover. What could go wrong with this hose anyway?


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## ryanj (Sep 15, 2008)

Just thought I would let you guys know that you can now buy the PCV membrane separately without having to buy a whole valve cover. https://www.rkxtech.com/collections/engine/products/36-pcv-diaphragm


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## jeffyt (Jul 8, 2013)

*Thank you, thank you, thank you!*



ryanj said:


> Just thought I would let you guys know that you can now buy the PCV membrane separately without having to buy a whole valve cover. https://www.rkxtech.com/collections/engine/products/36-pcv-diaphragm


Just had this problem with my 2008 R32 and was not excited about buying a $400 valve cover...glad I read all the threads to the end, you may have saved me some money.


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## GiggyTheKidd (Jun 22, 2009)

*I'm going to try replace this myself*



pinoygti said:


> Anyone have know a link for diy for replacing the valve cover?


This just happened to my R. I want to try and fix it myself. I've ordered and received my replacement cover. But I cant seem to find any diy instructions on how to do the job. Do you guys know if I need to add silicone sealer, and if so, at what locations? I cant imagine this job being too difficult, but i want to do it right.


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## foundubbedriver (Jan 10, 2006)

Eric D said:


> Might want to add a steel mesh like that found in the mk4 valve covers.
> Then plug the tiny hole with round stock or weld it.


is there no oil separator in this or what's the deal? I picked up a cayenne/Touareg valve cover and planned to swap the faulty diaphragm but there's nothing to swap -- I'm stumped.


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## Eric D (Feb 16, 1999)

Considering the valve cover isn't the same part # as your Mk5, I'm not surprised.
The valve cover I posted is a Mk4 R32, basically has a flame trap.'
The Touareg has an external PCV as does the Cayenne. They don't share the same PCV as the Cayenne has a different intake manifold.
Touareg on the left, smallest of the pair, and Cayenne on the right. Price difference is major.











Here is a diaphragm for your Mk5.
https://www.rkxtech.com/products/36-pcv-diaphragm

I believe I've read where that someone had tried a Mk5 2.0T PCV diaphragm and it worked.
The 2.0T breather/PCV is pricey, some aftermarket ones are priced in the mid $20 range.
The Dorman PCV diaphragm is thin like the original, but was the only alternative back in the day. 
This one offered by RKXTech looks thicker.

DIY video.


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## foundubbedriver (Jan 10, 2006)

I appreciate the reply!! I was wondering why the internals were different. It's not for a mkv though, my mkiv .:r project lol -- this thread just has some useful info.



I picked up that diaphragm and I guess I won't be needing it, if anyone's in need lmk!


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## raven_titan (Jan 23, 2008)

I'm having this problem now, is it ok to drive for the next couple of days till I get back to my mech?


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## raven_titan (Jan 23, 2008)

elMacJunkie said:


> i had a friend that works at a local vw dealer check it out and he capped the vacuum line going to the intake and made a temp catch can for the vent valve.
> Car is running good now, no CEL. :thumbup:
> I might just get an actual catch can and run it this way, then replace the valve cover at a later time.





kgw said:


> Tod, you have to cap that line off...Just did this temp fix my self. I just got a Pro-Vent catch-can(034 has them) to install soon. I've also ordered a new diaphragm for the failed one in the valve cover from a Russian dealer! If/when I ever take the engine apart, perhaps I'll install it! Although, if I can keep the Pro-Vent on and pass Calif. emissions, I will.


Also, can i clarify the hose going to the temporary catchcan, its open system? ie no vacuum/pressure and the gas/oil just drip into the can?

Tks


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## raven_titan (Jan 23, 2008)

Eric D said:


> Considering the valve cover isn't the same part # as your Mk5, I'm not surprised.
> The valve cover I posted is a Mk4 R32, basically has a flame trap.'
> The Touareg has an external PCV as does the Cayenne. They don't share the same PCV as the Cayenne has a different intake manifold.
> Touareg on the left, smallest of the pair, and Cayenne on the right. Price difference is major.


Wonder if this Touraeg's PCV, the hose's end and the sensor's end can fit on the R32? Essentially bypassing R32's internal broken PCV


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## r32gooner (Mar 20, 2012)

I replaced the PCV diaphragm last weekend. Here are some pictures with the intake manifold and throttle body removed just for reference if you ever get stuck. 

The diaphragm was punctured in two places  










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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

How was getting the manifold off without putting the front end into service position?




r32gooner said:


> I replaced the PCV diaphragm last weekend. Here are some pictures with the intake manifold and throttle body removed just for reference if you ever get stuck.
> 
> The diaphragm was punctured in two places
> 
> ...


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## twendt (Aug 27, 2015)

kgw said:


> How was getting the manifold off without putting the front end into service position?


You still have to put it in service position. But it's honestly not that bad I just did mine a few weeks ago


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## raven_titan (Jan 23, 2008)

Thanks for the photos. How difficult and how long it takes for the entire job?



RuckFules32 said:


>


Also, how do one pull off the breather crankcase hose from the engine cover (circled red above)?


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## arman14 (Feb 1, 2011)

I've had this problem for a while now, and last week I started to fix the car. I'm putting everything back as we speak but I need some help, Can somebody please take some pictures of all the hoses connected to the back of the intake manifold, I didn't take any and I just want to make sure I got them all right.

I used the RKXTech PCV valve membrane replacement, no need to buy a new valve cover.

Thanks


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## arman14 (Feb 1, 2011)

So I replaced the PCV valve membrane, put everything back and the engine is still sucking air


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## twendt (Aug 27, 2015)

raven_titan said:


> Thanks for the photos. How difficult and how long it takes for the entire job?
> 
> 
> 
> Also, how do one pull off the breather crankcase hose from the engine cover (circled red above)?


Just disconnect the hose from the valve cover leave the rest on the intake manifold. 


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## twendt (Aug 27, 2015)

arman14 said:


> So I replaced the PCV valve membrane, put everything back and the engine is still sucking air


You may not have the diaphragm seated correctly. I suggest pulling it back apart and re installing it all again. Also make sure all your connections are connected correctly


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## arman14 (Feb 1, 2011)

twendt said:


> You may not have the diaphragm seated correctly. I suggest pulling it back apart and re installing it all again. Also make sure all your connections are connected correctly
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




That was exactly my problem. Unfortunately I didn't test for leaks when I installed the valve the first time, all fixed now.

Thanks


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

I need this connecting hose, between the elbow and the intake fitting! What's the name/part number?




raven_titan said:


> Wonder if this Touraeg's PCV, the hose's end and the sensor's end can fit on the R32? Essentially bypassing R32's internal broken PCV


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

For future reference, there are little tabs at the ends of the 3 arms that need to be depressed CAREFULLY, while pulling up...



raven_titan said:


> Thanks for the photos. How difficult and how long it takes for the entire job?
> 
> 
> 
> Also, how do one pull off the breather crankcase hose from the engine cover (circled red above)?


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Component
Intake manifold-to-cylinder head	13Nm
Intake manifold support-to-intake manifold	20Nm
Throttle valve control module J338-to-intake manifold	10Nm
Vacuum reservoir-to-intake manifold	5Nm
Guide tube for oil dipstick-to-intake manifold	5Nm
Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor-to-upper section of air filter housing	1.5 Nm





vr6fanatic said:


> What are the torque specs for valve cover and intake manifold?


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## temyong22 (Mar 26, 2009)

I have yet to see anyone sell the crankcase breather separate. Ecs sells it with the cover as a package. ...then I was at autozone and they happen to be able to order it. Just can’t remember the part number


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2006/audi/a3_quattro/engine_mechanical/breather_hose.html 

At the top of the list, for the VR6:


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Now that I have done it myself, I see that it IS in service position!:laugh:



kgw said:


> How was getting the manifold off without putting the front end into service position?


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Here's a good piece on what proper pressure control in the crankcase can do for you, even if you don't have the money for a dry-sump system that can achieve negative pressure in the crankcase

Ring seal equates to moar power...and lower crankcase pressure increases ring seal.

http://dsportmag.com/the-tech/quick-...essure-part-1/

Who knew?


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## Stig978 (Apr 24, 2017)

*Look on Amazon it is a Diaphragm.*

I had the Valve Cover diaphragm needs replacing issue a few weeks ago due to a major vacccum leak. I did not pay the 500 dollars for the new valve cover. My dealership told me about a non vw part to fix the issue. All gaskets along with the faulty diaphragm were replaced. $1050. Look up Pcv valve diaphragm in Amazon.


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## Stig978 (Apr 24, 2017)

*The company*

The company that makes the part is named RKX.


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## raven_titan (Jan 23, 2008)

kgw said:


> For future reference, there are little tabs at the ends of the 3 arms that need to be depressed CAREFULLY, while pulling up...


Thanks kgw, i broke one of the taps unfortunately.



kgw said:


> Now that I have done it myself, I see that it IS in service position!:laugh:


What is service position? 

Is there any detailed DIY around? I tried google but no help.

Is there anyway not to remove the front bumper for this DIY?

THanks


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?9020801-Cyclonic-Oil-Separator-aka-quot-PVC-quot-repair

More of an overview than a detailed how-to, but useful. There are detailed ones out there. There is one for a TT that is good. The difference with the TT is you don't have to put it into service position to remove the intake manifold, but it is a good thread.


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