# Calix OEM Circulating Coolant Winter Heater



## reaelfacts (Dec 18, 2012)

I have just purchased and installed the Calix OEM winter circulating heater unit. The installation procedure was time consuming and aggravating. The instructions were minimally informative and are designed for VAG shop technicians, not do-it-yourselfers. I am not at all impressed  :banghead:. If you are considering this heater as an option in cold climates, are not a competent mechanic and want to avoid cursing Volkswagen engineers, have the dealer install it. That being said, it's not rocket science. It does require removing the AC compressor OR the AC compressor AND the intake manifold. As I did not have a spare intake manifold gasket, I chose to remove the AC compressor only and work from the bottom. The main difficulty in doing the job in this manner is that one leg of the intake manifold support bracket and the dipstick tube both attach right next to the area where you will be installing the heater and hoses. On the other side is the Oil cooler and filter assembly. Getting your hands up into the area of the thermostat housing and between that housing and the oil cooler is very difficult, especially if you have big hands. An easier option would be to remove the AC compressor AND the intake manifold. The access this will provide will make your life A LOT easier.
Getting started.... Of course, you'll need to drain the coolant. Next you will need a remote-style clamp removal tool to get at the clamps that attach the hose between the thermostat housing and oil cooler.







This hose is short, only about 14 centimeters long. The best way to get this hose off from underneath your car is to remove the clamp from the oil cooler end first and then carefully split the hose with an x-acto knife (or similar) to get it off the oil cooler pipe. Be prepared for some coolant drainage at this point as well. Next, maneuver the hose clamp removal tool in an arc around and behind the dipstick tube and finesse it onto the upper clamp. Once the clamp pressure has been released, you can grasp the hose and pull down, it should come off without too much difficulty. Now the fun part!!! Calix suggests you install the hose which fits between the heater unit and the oil cooler first, then the upper hose which connects the thermostat housing to the heater unit. This is where you really miss access from above if you haven't removed the intake manifold. There really is no room to reach up and install the upper hose once the lower hose has been installed. So, when you only have access from the bottom, you must reverse the order and install the upper hose first. (By the way, be very logical about how you position the new hose clamps to ensure you can access them for tightening as there are very few access points that will not interfere with something. Plan your layout of the clamp positions carefully.) Now that the upper hose is installed, you can install the bottom hose to the oil cooler. With the upper hose installed, you must devise a method to pull the lower hose down onto the oil cooler pipe. I used sash chord and attached it to the lower hose above the point where the pipe flange will rest in the hose when fully installed. By using a variety of techniques with small pry bars I was able to position the hose above the pipe and then pull it down onto the pipe via the sash chord and gentle prying. Once down, I released the clamp holding the sash chord and then positioned the clamp correctly. Next, you have to do a 'rough' install of the heater and the heater mounting bracket to check for positioning and fit. The hose routing is ridiculous, it's almost impossible to avoid the hoses rubbing each other, or some part of the engine. However, with careful maneuvering, one can find the sweet spot. The heater bracket attaches to the engine using the bolt that secures the intake manifold metal support framework. Installing the bracket is self-explanatory. The only thing you need to remember is to install the large hose clamp onto the bracket that will clamp the heater to the bracket before you install the bracket onto the engine block. Next, gently and loosely install the heater on the bracket and confirm the hose positions and heater position. Make sure the electrical connection on the heater is aligned toward the front of the car, otherwise, it will interfere with the AC compressor. When you get the AC compressor back in, you will recognize how little space there is for this installation. Once the heater is in position, tighten the retaining clamp to hold it to the bracket. There is a raised notch that mates the heater to the bracket for alignment, be sure this notch is engaged. Then tighten the upper hose clamp on the top of the heater, and the lower hose clamp on the front of the heater. Next, reinstall the AC compressor and the drive belts. If you completely removed the drive belts, BE SURE TO REINSTALL THEM IN THE SAME DRIVE DIRECTION AS THEY CAME OFF OR THEY WILL BREAK!!!! Now that the AC compressor is in, you can route the electrical connection from the heating unit to the front of the car. You will have to cut a bit of your grille to install it permanently, unless you are one of those people who just lets the cable hang....:screwy: The kit has plastic zap straps to hold the cable and assist in securing it safely. I've attached the following pictures to show post installation (except electrical cable connection). I am really sorry I could not document the entire procedure with pictures but I was in a terrible hurry as my wife needed the car.


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## reaelfacts (Dec 18, 2012)

*calix pictures*

Sorry, my pictures wouldn't post, but they are on flickr here:

Clamp tool: http://www.flickr.com/photos/flickadoo/8285531806/in/photostream/

Heater Install: http://www.flickr.com/photos/flickadoo/8284471219/in/photostream/

and: http://www.flickr.com/photos/flickadoo/8284475559/in/photostream/

Pictures showing the heat unit installed without electrical connection and the AC compressor installed.


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## reaelfacts (Dec 18, 2012)

*Calix heater feedback.*

I am glad to report the heater works great. We are in Canmore, Alberta for Christmas and it has been as low as -27C. A few hours of plug in time and the whole block is toasty warm. So far, so good!!!!!


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## VWGuy (Nov 2, 1999)

Super old bump... do you remember the part number of the kit you used?


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