# 42 Draft Design Shifter Bushing Installation - Lots of Pics



## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

*6 speed MQ500 - 42 Draft Design Shifter Bushing Installation - Lots of Pics*

These bushing greatly improve the feel/feedback on the shifter when shifting thru the gears. Difficulty a 5 on a 1 -10 scale, 10 being the most difficult.
I followed an installation guide by *JohnLZ7W on "Quattroworld" *not trying to duplicate his thread, just clarify some step and info. 



*A side note: I also did the shifter cable bracket bushings from Phenix Engineering*

Here is the link:
https://phenixengineering.com/shop/shifter-bracket-bushings

*When replacing the OEM bushings with the 42DD bushings avoid turning the shifter cable end links, this will ensure that shifter cable length have not changed. Do this at your own risk, I'm not responsible for any damage that may occur while performing these steps.*

So here we go:

Tools required:


 T20 Torx
 10mm Socket
 3/8" x 6" extension
 Channel lock or spring clamp tool (photo)
 3/8" drive 5mm allen key 
 4mm allen key
 Dremel with zip cut disc
 Drill
 Belt Sander or Palm sander with coarse sandpaper
 6" Digital Caliper (see photo)
 Flat Screwdriver
 Side Cutters
 Knife
 10mm wrench

Spring clamp tool:


6" Digital Caliper:


Remove the oil fill cover:


Remove the rear bolt of the air filter housing with 10mm socket and 6" extension:


Remove the allen bolt on the right side of the housing using the 3/8" drive 5mm allen key and 6" extension:


Remove the turbo intake pipe spring clip using either channel locks or spring clip tool, pull the pipe away from the housing:


Remove the spring clip on the recirculating hose at the throttle body using channel locks or spring clip tool, pull the hose off the throttle body:


Remove the two torx screw holding the front air scoop using the T20 Torx socket and pull the scoop off:


The air filter housing is now ready to remove, you'll need to pull up firmly since the box is being held by two rubber insert (see photo below):


With the air filter housing removed you now have access to the shifter bushings:


We'll replace the front to back bushing first, remove the black clip by pulling up with a flat screwdriver:


Remove the retainer clip by lifting the top tab with your thumbnail and slide it off:


With the clip removed pry the top plastic bushing off with a flat screwdriver and lift the end link from the post:


The taller black OEM bushing is the top one and the short one is the bottom, the two aluminum one are the 42DD replacement and are of equal lengths:


Install the 42DD bushings into the end link and re-install the onto the post:


Re-install the retainer clip and black clip:


Next is the side to side bushing.Pry the side to side end link off using a flat screwdriver:


With the end link removed, we'll remove the white clip holding the side to side bracket in place. Use your finger nail to pry the clips and remove (see second photo):



With the white clip removed the side to side bracket can be removed from the car:


We are now ready to make the modifications to the side to side bracket, the photo shows that there's no hole in the bracket:


With the supplied drill bit from the top, (circled in the photo) drill through the top post of the side to side bracket:


The top post bracket now has a hole required to later insert the short allen bolt supplied in the kit:


Again using the supplied drill bit, enlarge the hole on the bottom post:


Next we need to shorten the bottom post of the side to side bracket to 27mm from the flat spot to the top of the post (see photo), the initial cut was made with a dremel drill using a zip cut disc. The final length reduction was made using a bench style belt sander:


*Note: I used a digital caliper to ensure the final measurement of 27mm*

Install the side to side bracket into the car, insert the supplied black bushing as shown in the photo, with the bottom post shorten to 27mm that leave a gap the width of a credit card when the assembly is tighten:


Update: Brass washers shown in the photo are incorrect they need to be reversed. Thicker washer goes in first the thinner one goes on the nut side along with the S.S. washer.

Install the long allen bolt with the allen head inside the supplied black bushing, tighten using a 10mm socket and 4mm allen key, no locktite is required since nylock nuts are supplied: *Do Not Overtighten * 


Black bushing supplied in the kit:


Now we need to remove the OEM rubber bushing in the side to side end link, use the side cutter to cut the center plastic bushing out:


Using the flat screwdriver carefully pry the rubber insert out the end link: (keep the screwdriver away from the corners of the end link as to not damage the plastic bushing support.)



We are now ready to install the 42DD bushings:


With a knife cut the tab off the upper side to side bracket:


Using the short Allen bolt with the Allen head in the newly drilled hole, slip the thin brass washer into the upper post of the side to side bracket, followed by the thick 42DD bushing, the end link is next, the thicker 42DD bushing, then the thicker brass washer, S.S. washer and finally the nylock nut. Tighten the nut with a 10mm socket and a 4mm allen key, *do not overtighten* you should still be able to spin the 42DD bushing but also feel some resistance when spinning it.


Install in now completed re-assembled the air filter housing and components:


Additional step if you're going to change out the shifter cable bracket bushings, remove the three bolts using a 10mm socket for the two front bolts and the 10mm wrench for the rear bolt:

Next push the metal inserts from the top and remove, pry the rubber bushing out with a flat screwdriver, install the Phenix bushings, thicker bushing on the bottom, thinner one on the top. Re-install the bolts and tighten. You can see the Phenix bushings installed in the previous photo.


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## Pretarion (Jun 13, 2003)

Great write up and DIY. Thanks for all the hard work. What does the shifter feel like now?


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Pretarion said:


> Great write up and DIY. Thanks for all the hard work. What does the shifter feel like now?


Your welcome, great improvement over OEM, better feel/feedback through the shifter and no additional vibrating on the shifter. Simple low cost mod with great results, highly recommend it.


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## Pretarion (Jun 13, 2003)

Good to hear. You need to join the TTRS group on Facebook. The best collection of members and information.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Pretarion said:


> Good to hear. You need to join the TTRS group on Facebook. The best collection of members and information.


Already on there, in multiple TTRS/RS3 groups


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## ICETER (Jan 19, 2017)

Thanks for sharing this!
I often thought about installing this kit, but was unsure whether these small parts will bring a noticeable improvement.
You've convinced me, i ordered one.... :thumbup:


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## robotvoice (Apr 7, 2014)

Awesome write up! One of my only gripes with the TTRS in stock form is the sloppy shifter feel. This is definitely one of the best "bang for your buck" mods you can do for this car IMO.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

ICETER said:


> Thanks for sharing this!
> I often thought about installing this kit, but was unsure whether these small parts will bring a noticeable improvement.
> You've convinced me, i ordered one.... :thumbup:





robotvoice said:


> Awesome write up! One of my only gripes with the TTRS in stock form is the sloppy shifter feel. This is definitely one of the best "bang for your buck" mods you can do for this car IMO.


Thanks guys, the DIY that I followed was a great one but there was some important info missing, the cutting of the bottom post on the side to side bracket to 27mm, the 42 Draft Design instructions didn't specify the length either. This should take some of the guess work out of the install. :beer: Wish there was a short shifter for the MQ500 tranny  My sons has a DieselGeek short shifter for the 5 speed in is 2010 Golf and I just love it!


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Great write up :beer::beer:


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

TheDeckMan said:


> Great write up :beer::beer:


Thanks greatly appreciated :beer:


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## qooqiiu (Aug 5, 2019)

Very useful thread. 
Just a couple of questions.. do you need to use the 5mm bent Alan to lock the shifter assembly in the cabin? And any need to index the gears if you you are careful not to twist the end linkS?


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

qooqiiu said:


> Very useful thread.
> Just a couple of questions.. do you need to use the 5mm bent Alan to lock the shifter assembly in the cabin? And any need to index the gears if you are careful not to twist the end linkS?


Thank you!

I thought I'd been careful not to move the end links but I still had to do the re-alignment. Used a 5mm drill bit and locked in the shifter assembling by moving it around while pushing on the locking pin until the locking pin drop into place


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

*Warning this will transfer some vibration back into the car*

The biggest improvement to the shifter was installing the 034 Motorsport dog bone bushing and billet dog bone. The improvement was finding 3rd and 5th gates when shifting to those gears. This does generate some vibration back into the car. A buddy is running the same setup on his TTRS but he's also changed to a stiffer motor mount (Stage 1 BFI) and this greatly reduced the vibration feedback. My next mod will be the BFI mounts.


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## qooqiiu (Aug 5, 2019)

Ahh man!

That has stopped me in my tracks. I did the front to back bushings Year’s ago and was scared off the side to side because of the re alignment aspect. After finding this thread I thought I’d give it another go but maybe not now. I have done all the other shifter upgrades..034 engine mounts ..bracket bushings..dog bone upper and lower.. only this side to side left.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

qooqiiu said:


> Ahh man!
> 
> That has stopped me in my tracks. I did the front to back bushings Year’s ago and was scared off the side to side because of the re alignment aspect. After finding this thread I thought I’d give it another go but maybe not now. I have done all the other shifter upgrades..034 engine mounts ..bracket bushings..dog bone upper and lower.. only this side to side left.


The adjustment is not as complicated as you may think. lock the shifter, lock the tranny side and slip the cable onto the bushing end, unlock shifter and tranny and your done.


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## qooqiiu (Aug 5, 2019)

I finally tackled this job today after years of putting it off. 

Practically every MoD I’ve done to this car has been a total PITA but not this one. 

Just thought I’d add a couple of things that may help future modders. 

I found that 27mm was too short to cut that post. The two bits met when it was that length so I added a small 1mm brass washer sandwiched inbetween the two to give me the “credit card” clearance. 

Also the arrangement of the bushings themselves. Your picture is correct. Every image I’ve seen of these bushings has them going like the ones pictured. To put the thick brass washer first (to the left) would not work at all. Perhaps edit your text as it threw me and I’m sure others that will read this thread in the future. 

To Align the linkage all I did was lock the gear lever in the car using the dieselgeek pin and pull the slack out of the side to side cable as per dieselgeeks YouTube video whilst the car is in neutral and that’s all. I did not use the locking pin in the tower itself as it really did not want to go in and be twisted up. I was not going to force it!! 

Back in the car and all gears are found. I went back and forth to see just how tight that top bolt should be and when I struggled to engage 3rd I slackened it off slightly and settled on that. The bottom bolt.. I can’t see how that can be tighter too much to affect anything as you’re leaving the credit card gap so snug is fine there surely? 


Over all i pretty underwhelmed by this MOD. The front to back I did years ago has way more of an effect. This side to side is only a very subtle improvement. The hardest part was removing the rubber and plastic from the end link. 

So the final transmission mods are...

42 draft designs front to back and side to side bushings. 
034 motorsport bracket bushings 
034 motorsports density line engine and transmission mounts
034 motorsports dog bone insert both lower and upper 
Solid aluminium Audi gear knob 
Diesel geeks shaft bushings


Most noticeable MODs there I’d say we’re the front to back bushings followed by the lower insert followed by the bracket bushings. All the others have minimal improvements. 

https://i.imgur.com/bmOJr85.png[\img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/SFjaNJN.jpg[\img]


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## qooqiiu (Aug 5, 2019)

Don’t know what’s going on with the € and TM bits in that message. Sorry about that.


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## qooqiiu (Aug 5, 2019)

Thinking about it more I don’t actually see why its necessary to cut the bottom post at all. 

And I notice that your bolt sticks out a few mm. All the other images show no threads protruding. Did you use a longer bolt?


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

qooqiiu said:


> Thinking about it more I don’t actually see why its necessary to cut the bottom post at all.
> 
> And I notice that your bolt sticks out a few mm. All the other images show no threads protruding. Did you use a longer bolt?


No used the bolt that came with the kit.


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