# Sticky  16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you



## 130_R (May 24, 2001)

With the return of the search function, and in an effort to create a resource for the most commonly asked questions in the 16v forum, this thread is meant to provide a quick reference to those that are new 16v owners or are not familiar with the 16v engine.
Please add appropriate material to this thread; the things that are repeated will be deleted unless the general concensus is that they are more complete than the one that they come after. Please treat this as a working, breathing, living document and is meant to serve as a resource for commonly asked questions. This thread is not for personal bickering, and any posts that do not add relevant information to this thread will be deleted immediately and without explination.
I know most of you have something to add here, so get to work







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## rockin16v (Aug 31, 2001)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (130_R)*

for 020 transmission information check out http://cars.vwsport.com/gears/index.html
it has gear ratios (1-5 and ring and pinion), information on SMS (self machining syndrome), speed / RPM calculator, excel spreadsheet download to calculate speeds (thanks Ron P), speedometer gear information and part numbers, and lots of other useful information.


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## austin neuschafer (Apr 26, 2002)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (130_R)*

a post about the ABF 16v motor, used in the A3 cars in europe w/pics and links http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=424868 
and some peoples experience and info on how to run the dual exhaust cam setup http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=365948 
*cheap alternative to the $100+ oxygen sensor for about $40* http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=877406 
premaid crank trigger wheel for all(older) vws with a external harmonic balancer www.eurospeed.ca prices shown are in canadian $ they also make 16v fuel rails.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
transmission rebuilds are available from HGB on here he is well known and respected in the business
ce2 swap into a A1 car http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=610111 
actual cuttaway view (not computer generated) of a 2.0 (9A) head ports http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1141959 
what water outlet to use for the clip in style sensors??? P# 068 121 145Q pics and 2 posts about this http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...44950 http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2008943
I highly recommend using * anti seize lubricant * went reinstalling water pump housing bolts, cv - hub splines, oxygen sensor threads, exhaust studs. these parts are very prone to corrosion due to either exposure to corrosive chemicals or excessive heat. I speak from experience


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## AntoineJo (Apr 6, 2001)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Jettaboy_1)*

http://www.scirocco16v.com has good tech info and a lot of dyno scans. It is 16volt's site.
Thanks Shannon and keep it up!


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## AntoineJo (Apr 6, 2001)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (AntoineJo)*

this is what removing the AC on a 2.0L 16v looks like. Notice the cut bracket, the alternator mounted where the A/C was, the 8v alternator pulley and the A/C belt used to drive the alternator.


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## AntoineJo (Apr 6, 2001)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (AntoineJo)*

A flywheel can safely be lightened to 8lbs.


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## AntoineJo (Apr 6, 2001)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (AntoineJo)*

Between a 1.8L and a 2.0L head, the best one is the one that is in the best condtion. If both are perfect condition, check again, one of them has to have some kind of default. In doubt, let the person who will rebuild and port it choose for you. If he does not know which to choose, find another machinist.
If you plan on not doing a port and polish, re-consider. The head is out of the car, so you might as well quit smoking for a few weeks and spend the 500$ on a p&p.


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## rockin16v (Aug 31, 2001)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (AntoineJo)*

good point Antoine








http://www.scirocco16v.com/tech_index.htm


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## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (AntoineJo)*

id like to add that when you first buy your 16v, be sure to change the timing belt regardless of when the previous owner says it was changed, it also doesnt hurt to change it once every year or year and half (depending on how much driving you do)


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## ltnflvr (Aug 11, 2001)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (ValveCoverGasket)*

Good info sites:
http://www.gti16v.org/tecspecs.htm#tecspecs
http://www.iders.com/alexweb/


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## Ted (Dec 27, 1999)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (ltnflvr)*

for the new comers...
the 16v engine came in 2 forms... 1.8L and 2.0L 
the 1.8L 16v (code name PL) made 123hp stock, ran off CIS-e injection, and was introduced in late 86 Scirrocos and eventually found its way into the GLI and GTIs in 1987 to 1989. The bore and stroke are smaller than the 2.0L which enables it to rev to a stock 7200 RPM redline. The head on the 1.8L 16v has larger intake ports but smaller exhaust ports compared to a 2.0 16v head. 
the 2.0 16v (code name 9A) made 134hp stock, ran off Motronic injection, and was introduced in early 90 in GLIs and in late 90/91 in GTIs up to 1992. They were also available in B3 Passats. The bore and stroke are larger than the 1.8L which means it could not rev as high from the factory (approx 6800 RPM) but it has better low end torque due to it's larger stroke and smaller intake ports but larger exhaust ports. 
the only 16v engine that can be chipped is the 2.0 16v because it runs off Motronic injection... 
http://www.Neuspeed.com
http://www.Autotech.com
http://www.GiacUsa.com
http://www.TTTuning.com
http://www.AdvancedMotorsport.com
all make chips for the 2.0 16v that greatly increase mid to top end power as well as raising the redline to 7000+ rpm. 
1.8L 16v engines CANNOT be chipped! ...howeverm an option for the 1.8L 16v is the Autotech or TT fuel enrichment module which works similar to a chip by increasing the amount of fuel delivered at high RPM where the stock fuel map tends to lean out. 
Whatever engine you choose, note that the 16v is an interference engine meaning that the piston and valve travel "overlap" which means that if you break your timing belt, there is a good chance that the valves and pistons will collide damaging your engine and valve train. You can prevent all this by properly changing the timing belt if it has not been changed in a while...a small price to pay for protection! The belt should be changed in 40-45K intervals ... 


[Modified by Ted, 11:39 PM 11-28-2002]


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## damion16v (May 9, 2002)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Ted)*

Before modifying the car, make sure that the engine and all it's components (like the timing belt mentioned above) are working properly. If a part looks sketchy, replace it.


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## ICIN235 (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: 16v FAQ: THE MOST COMMON PROBLEM*

IDLE OR BUCKING PROBLEMS ON 16V CARS: 
If your motronic 2.0 16V car starts to idle funny, first thing you should do is go to the dealership, and make sure all the recalls have been fixed. Some cars did have recalls on computer wiring harnesses. Next, It seems that corrosion at the electrical connectors around the engine are to blame for the majority of these idling problems. Go to a good electronics store/warehouse, and get a can of Deoxit contact enhancer spray. It's about $14. Spray the inside of every electrical connector under the hood. The most important ones are the ones around the fuel distributor, one next to the firewall (potentiometer), one on the engine side (differential pressure regulator), and two under the intake boot (emmissions related). 
Things that cause erratic idling on all CIS-E or Motronic 16Vs are: 
1.	the A/C hoses that run along the passenger side fender, next to the fuel distributor. There is an electrical connector on the side of the fuel distributor and the A/C hoses usually end up resting on it. This is not good. Get zip ties and zip tie the hoses so they do not rest on this connector. 
2.	Check for a small tear underneath the intake boot. Remove it completely to inspect it. This is a very common occurence. Any sort of vacuum leak can cause idling problems. 
3.	A failing fuel pre-pump. They're $60 bucks and take 20 minutes to replace. 
4.	A bad idle switch. The idle switch is located on the throttle body, and will cause idling problems if it doesn't engage and/or if it fails. 
5. A bad oxygen sensor.


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## rockin16v (Aug 31, 2001)

*Re: 16v FAQ: THE MOST COMMON PROBLEM (9A16V)*

ah yes, timing the 16v.
timing belt and tensioner should be replaced every 60,000kms (as per VW), but it's your choice when / if you replace it. Why roll the dice? 
anyway, here are some picture of the timing marks on a 16v. the transaxle / Flywheel mark is accesable under a plastic green screw on cap (no pictures of it - sorry), but it is on the driver side - where the transaxle mates to the engine. It's on top. you can't miss it.
The cam marks are on the inside (drivers side) of the pulley.
The crank pulley marks are on the crank (obviously) - but these line up to the plastic lower timing belt cover - and is not that accurate. the crank pulley and flywheel sping at the same rate, so use the flywheel mark.
The dot on the flywheel is 0° and the notch is factory timing.
ok, now for the pictures....
crank marks (line up with "V" notch on transaxle housing)








Another shot of the whole flywheel








Cam timing mark








Another cam mark








And the distributor (plug wires info and rotation)








that's it for now...











_Modified by rockin16v at 8:55 AM 12-2-2003_


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## Ted (Dec 27, 1999)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (rebel_eye)*

quote:[HR][/HR]wow ! im gona make sure i get a 1.8L 16v head if i go 16v [HR][/HR]​don't jump on that just yet ... the 1.8L 16v head may have higher flowing intake ports but it's exhaust ports don't flow as high as a 2.0 16v head. The head you use depends on the engine you are building. This is why the 2.0 16v makes more torque down low due to its smaller intake ports but larger exhaust ports. If you chose to port and polish the 16v head, then either head will work well but the myth that swapping on a 1.8L 16v head to a 2.0 block is the best may not really be beneficial ... I will return later to post more detailed information on this topic... 

also the advertised compression ratio for the 16v engines is as follows:
1.8L 16v = 10:1 CR
2.0L 16v = 10.8:1 CR 


[Modified by Ted, 10:36 AM 11-29-2002]


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## Ted (Dec 27, 1999)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Ted)*

Viewing from the front of the engine, the Scirocco 16v engine has the throttle body on the right side of the intake manifold ... all other 16v engines (both 1.8 and 2.0) have the throttle on the left side of the intake manifold ... 
If you are planning to add a turbo to your GLI or GTI 16v engine, you will need to swap in a Scirocco 16v manifold/throttle body to have the throttle on the right side. If you are going to turbo a Scirocco 16v, you do not need to do this because you already have the correct manifold.


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## IronTrap (Jun 14, 2001)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (130_R)*

If you are even thinking about swapping to Digi. 1 for your 16v... read the following post.... you have pretty much all of your questions and help you need there!!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

p.s.: get a bentley... it will cover most of what is being covered in this post...








http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=537957 


[Modified by littledevil34, 1:41 PM 11-29-2002]


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## 12 Inch Club (Oct 23, 2001)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (rebel_eye)*

In the Scirocco the engine sits on 4 mounts since it's got a Mk1 chassis. In all other cars it's on 3 mounts.
Can someone post the DIY full conversion of a 16V into any MK2, please.


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## rebel_eye (Mar 29, 2001)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (12 Inch Club)*

what mouts do i need for a 2.0L 16v block to fit in a mk1 ?
I thought i bolted rigt up .


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## JettaManDan (Feb 7, 2001)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (rebel_eye)*

Another possible reason your 16V may be idleing badly - or sounds like it runs on 3 cylinders on startup may be casued by a leaking Distributor. They ALL will leak eventually - and oil can leak into the Distributor cap...causing a misfire.....unhook your distributor cap and look inside - you will know if you have oil in there.....and you can usually see the oil leak down the side of the motor under the distributor cap......new distributors are running about $175 these days with a new cap and rotor - places like http://www.germanautoparts.com has them. 
If you idle is not constant - and the revs bounce - it's probably your Idle stabilizer valve (ISV as people call it here) - kind of a small can looking thing with an electrical connection on it on the right side of the motor - they go bad as well - and can cause the car to stall.....replacement takes only a few minutes...
16V'S like to run hot - a normal oil operating temperature for 16V is betwwen 190-230 Degrees Farenheight (as seen on the multifunction display) if you temp goes higher than that - a new low temp thermostat and low temp fan switch are good idea's......the water temp should never go much past 1/2 way to 3/4's on the guage - in hot climates it will run at 1/2 to 3/4's - but in cooler climates and when running on the highway it should stay at like a 1/4 on the temp guage......
more to come later....
Dan


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## Ted (Dec 27, 1999)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (JettaManDan)*

Another thing to note is to not worry if the 16v you are buying has over 100,000 miles on it AS LONG AS IT'S BEEN TAKEN CARE OF! Make sure the previous owner has kept records of everything that has been done. 
The 16v engines are built so tightly from the factory that it doesn't FULLY break in until around 80K - 100K miles ... technically the engine should gain more power as the mileage increases ... 
these engines are well built and with proper care, you should be able to get at least 180K to 200K out of them before any big repairs are needed.


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## de motorwerks (Mar 4, 2001)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Elwood)*

dist seal part # for the cheepo fix for the oil in the dist cap http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=93065


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## rockin16v (Aug 31, 2001)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (vw problems)*

differences between the 1.8L and 2L (other than bore and stroke)
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=608018


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## nickinboston (Sep 7, 2001)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (130_R)*

how to Read/Clear Motronic Fault Codes:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=566501&postid=5253968#5253968


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## 83Caddy16v (Jul 31, 2000)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (mk2maniac)*

To make your TT fuel enrichment module adjustable - replace the resistor with a potentiometer mounted in the engine compartment or in the dash.











[Modified by 83caddy16v, 7:15 PM 12-8-2002]


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## pastpargolf (Jul 16, 2000)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (83caddy16v)*

Mostly maintence advice:
Before you mess with the idle, timing, CO mixture, make sure or try:
Your injector o-rings/shrouds are good, you can tell by spraying some carb cleaner around the base and if theres a vaccum leak the idle will fluxuate briefly. Or if you grab the injector line and wiggle it, good o rings will be firm, bad ones will wiggle.
Follow all vaccum lines to their end make sure theres no leaks.
Your broken dip stick funnel is a vaccum leak.
Go thruogh all eletrical connections spray them with Wurth Contact OL, its a contact cleaner/enhancer.
Clean your grounds with some emery cloth, and put dieletric grease on them.
Make sure your Tune up stuff has been done within the last ~30,000 Miles Bosch plugs, fuel filter, decent wires oem bosch are the best IMO, Mann air filters are good, or make sure you clean your K&N when its full of crap.
Some dieletric grease around the plug wire boots makes a better contact and lets you take them off easily. o2 sensor should be done every~ 60,000 miles.
Most 16Vs run noticably better with a good grade of Gasoline.
A bottle of fuel system cleaner ie Techron, by Chevron will do wonders for dirty injectors, and excessive carbon build up.
Get a Bently Manual


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## Elwood (Aug 10, 2001)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (pastpargolf)*

quote:[HR][/HR]Go thruogh all eletrical connections spray them with Wurth Contact OL, its a contact cleaner/enhancer.[HR][/HR]​I prefer Deoxit
quote:[HR][/HR]A bottle of fuel system cleaner ie Techron, by Chevron will do wonders for dirty injectors, and excessive carbon build up.
[HR][/HR]​Techron works well as a maintenance treatment, but Redline's SI-1 works better to get rid of a heavy buildup.


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## damion16v (May 9, 2002)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Elwood)*

Just a suggestion, but can anyone post the common ( and uncommon) bolt sizes on the engine? I ran into this snag as a newbie.


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## pastpargolf (Jul 16, 2000)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (damion16v)*

Your better off just buying a complete set like 8mm to 22mm wrenches and 30mm socket


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## Ron P (Oct 31, 2000)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (130_R)*

16V head "spotters guide" - some shots comparing external features of 9A and PL 16V heads, to help you in junkyarding or if buying a loose head.
http://w3.one.net/~rapieper/16Vheadcompare/
HTH
Ron


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Ron P)*

Very nice Ron!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## tram-man (Dec 8, 2002)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (130_R)*

In answer to: please post pics and explanation of sensors on 16v head
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=634038


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## DrewBuiltVW (Nov 24, 2000)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (rockin16v)*

FIRING ORDER ON 16V: 1 - 3 - 4 - 2 COUNTERCLOCKWISE rotation

Unlike all the 8v motors, where the distributor turns clockwise, the 16v is opposite, counterclockwise.


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## dbpulvino (Nov 22, 2002)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (AntoineJo)*

This is further information on rebuilding the 16v distributor that I didn't see anywhere else before diving into mine.
-----------------------------------
Just wanted to keep this one alive, especially with people talking about no new 16v dist. available.
I recently got my distributor back together with the new seal and thought I'd share a couple of things from my experience.
First off, the volvo seal I had that I thought would work didn't. The O.D. on that seal was too big. I was however able to find an appropriately sized replacement seal from a local transmission shop (correct o.d. and i.d.). I believe the shop said the seal was from a GM manual transmission, from the gear selector input (or whatever you want to call it). I however decided to go with the Chicago Rawhide seal as the GM seal was not spring loaded (ie no spring on the inside of the seal, ya know like on the mainshaft seals.), and the C.R. seal is "proven technology."
To get to the seal, the washer on the hall sender side of the dist. needs to be removed, but be careful! What people had failed to tell me was that the washer is knurled, and after the washer is installed in the distributor at the factory, the metal lip (part of the distributor body) overhanging the edge of the washer is then slightly pressed in. This explains why it was so stinking hard to get the washer out. I also wound up breaking part of the metal surround that was crushed in, but because of the knurling, and the amount of the rim/surround left the washer would still seat when all was said and done. Also considered not a problem due to the minimal amount of axial end-play allowed through construction (ie able to pull the rotor shaft away from and push back to the engine).
The other thing I encountered was that the chuck that engages in the head of the engine is offcenter/directional. As such, it can only be installed one way (unless you want to time your distributor 180 degrees off from normal). The tab coming off the dist drive chuck needs to be on the top side of the chuck when reinstalled, with the distributor rotor referenced to tdc.
I haven't ran the car yet, so don't know how well the reseal worked, but I'll find out soon engough.
If I find this successful after a bit of driving, I might be willing to rebuild distributors for people (for a fee of course !).
HTH.
Derek P


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## Spinyfrog (Jan 29, 2003)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Ted)*

quote:[HR][/HR]Viewing from the front of the engine, the Scirocco 16v engine has the throttle body on the right side of the intake manifold ... [HR][/HR]​My 1.8 8v CIS is setup the same way, do you know if the throttle body will match up? I wanna swap heads (and intake manifold) but only if I can keep the plain-jane CIS system. Can it be done??


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## AtariMasta (Feb 7, 2002)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (130_R)*

Wanna know the nitty-gritty about rebuilding a 16v? Check out my website, I update it often.
http://www.marshallplan.org
-Luke


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## dbpulvino (Nov 22, 2002)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (dbpulvino)*

Don't know if this has been posted yet, but the part number for the Generic (Ford) O2 sensor is 13913. Can be found at most any auto parts store (in my locale, Schucks for example), and should be quite a bit cheaper than the factory or VW equivalent.
I believe this comes from a Ford Mustang and/or an Escort.
hth,
Derek P


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## ValveFloat (Aug 12, 1999)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (dbpulvino)*

*Cams* 
I thought I'd post this since there are often questions about aftermarket cams for the 16v, although I don't know how useful the info in this article is. If you look at the graphs, some of them don't look right. They must have remade the graphs to make them look better or work better for printing or whatever. Anyway on some of them it looks to me like the got confused as to what part of the curve was torque and what part was power. On page 3 the 2nd graph shows this; before the curve for the Kent 258s cross it looks correct, but after they cross the pink curve should be torque and the red curve should be power. Remember when looking at a graph that uses the same scale for power and torque the curves must cross at 5250 RPM. Although it is not mathematically impossible for the curves to cross twice, if the torque curve was rising like the red curve the power curve would be rising even faster, it would not be flat like the pink curve. All the graphs except the baseline are messed up in this manner. Well anyway here is a link to the story:
European Car 16v Cam Test 


_Modified by ValveFloat at 10:55 AM 5-6-2003_


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## ValveFloat (Aug 12, 1999)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (dbpulvino)*

quote:[HR][/HR]Don't know if this has been posted yet, but the part number for the Generic (Ford) O2 sensor is 13913. Can be found at most any auto parts store (in my locale, Schucks for example), and should be quite a bit cheaper than the factory or VW equivalent.[HR][/HR]​Don't know if the Ford one is cheaper than this, but this seems like a pretty good deal.
O2 sensor from Adirondack 


[Modified by ValveFloat, 11:55 AM 3-7-2003]


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## Phobia16V (Aug 12, 2000)

*16v FAQ: 5th gear conversions for 3.94 R&P*

This came up in a thread recently, and I think it will be useful as a part of the FAQ. A comparison of different 5th gears vs. final drive ratios, showing their respective RPMs at higher speeds:

(Stock 16V)3.67 R&P, 0.89 5th = 
3715rpm @ 70mph
3980rpm @ 75mph
4245rpm @ 80mph 
Top speed(5th gear x R&P x 6000rpm) = 117mph
(4K)3.94 R&P, 0.85 5th = 
3809rpm @ 70mph (+94rpm)
4081rpm @ 75mph (+101rpm)
4353rpm @ 80mph (+108rpm)
Top speed(5th gear x R&P x 6000rpm) = 114mph (-3mph)
As you can see, the difference in RPM is negligable, and will still allow for passing without downshifting to 4th.
(4K)3.94 R&P, 0.80 5th = 
3585rpm @ 70mph (-130rpm)
3841rpm @ 75mph (-139rpm)
4097rpm @ 80mph (-148rpm)
Top speed(5th gear x R&P x 6000rpm) = 122mph (+5mph)


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## allan r (Dec 30, 2000)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (ValveFloat)*

i rememeber them saying the dyno graphs were misprinted. either way a good read http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## danny_16v (Jan 24, 2002)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (allan r)*

*Camshafts* 
Always remember the Timing of camshafts when installing/removing camshafts, the timing marks are timed by aligning two dots on the left face of the sprockets. If you cant see the alignment marks or their off alignment check your engines TDC. 
I had trouble with this when my head was rebuilt, the camshafts where placed out of alignment.


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## impulse byer (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (danny_16v)*

someone said that you could run two exh. cams dose is this make any more power or what.i have a extra set of stock cams if its worth any power ill try it


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## danny_16v (Jan 24, 2002)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (impulse byer)*

yes you can, you have to do some cutting I beleive, search on the first page of this forum.


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## impulse byer (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (danny_16v)*

the quote:[HR][/HR]yes you can, you have to do some cutting I beleive, search on the first page of this forum.[HR][/HR]​the link dosn't work can someone help me with this sence i have the parts already


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## Instigator2 (Mar 19, 2003)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (aggiestud)*

Wow, excellent thread guys! Thanx for all the input from all you "Guru's"!
This was just what I was looking for.
I just bought my 5th VeeWee and am taking delivery tomorrow.
It's a '88 16V Gli 5 speed.
pretty solid but definately used as a beater in her earlier life. But, that's also why i got it for $1200.
Two questions for you.
#1. valve/lifter noise on the 16 valves. I had a 16v GTI that did ir and so does the car I just bought. Two shops (VW shops) told me this is common and not to worry about it. One problem, I HATE LIFTER NOISE!!
Is it a cheap fix??
Question #2 is in regards to gas.
As I recall, the owners manual for my '91 2.0 16v GTI I had said you can run what ever you wnat for octane but for max perf. run hi test. I think I remeber "feeling" drastic differences between the two.
With gas prices what they are now, can I run poop gas if I'm not beating on the car, i.e. trips etc??
Thanx again guys, great thread.
Gary


----------



## Ted (Dec 27, 1999)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Instigator2)*

the motronic engine management will retard your engine timing via the knock sensors if you run low quality gas under hard driivng where engine heat builds up. You will just lose overall power but you will be saving your engine from melting down...you should however use at least 91 octane for a good complete combustion due to the 16vs high revving and high compression nature. I know gas prices suck these days but if you want your car to run at its best, you just gotta pay the extra price ... just don't drive around as much if you can


----------



## Jett'in (Aug 20, 2001)

*Re: European 16v fuel FAQ's (Benbuilt4u)*

A G60 downpipe will fit a 16v. 
I bought one and it bolts up just the same.
I am adding this b/c if you have a cracked and/or leaking downpipe, the G60 ones you will find for sale have lower mileage on them and are usually in much better condition than the used 16v ones. 
Good luck!


----------



## H2Zero (Apr 25, 2003)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Ted)*

If Motronic engine can be chipped, Is there anything you could suggest for Jetronics to increase its BHP....../


----------



## Phobia16V (Aug 12, 2000)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (H2Zero)*


_Quote, originally posted by *H2Zero* »_If Motronic engine can be chipped, Is there anything you could suggest for Jetronics to increase its BHP......

http://www.jetchip.com/


----------



## 130_R (May 24, 2001)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Phobia16V)*

spring cleaning, continue on


----------



## rockin16v (Aug 31, 2001)

*rebuilding a 2L 9A block?*

rebuilding a 2L 9A block?
Here is the list of parts you'll need for a full rebuild. a lot of these are reusable, but here is the list:
magnafluxed (checked)
hot tanked (cleaned) 
resurfaced 
honed (92.8mm)
Rod bolts (ARP recommended) - OEM are one-time use stretch bolts
crank rod journals being machined (if new rod bolts used)
crank main journals being machined (if new rod bolts used)
rods machined and balanced
pistons glass beaded
new rings
new frost plugs (4)
new aux shaft bushings (metal ones that have to be pressed in)
new front/rear seals
new front rear gaskets
new rod bearings (one over)
new crank main journal bearings
assembled short block
polished oil pump shaft gear cap
painted gloss fire red.
new oil pan gasket
2L oil squirters
2L 9A 144mm balanced 16v rifle drilled rods
oil pan cleaned and painted gloss black.
new dipstick tube seal
new oil filter to block gasket
new ring set (2L)
new low-temp thermostat (170°C)
new alternator belt (custom size)
new power steering belt (custom size)
new coolant hose (small one)
new oil filter (bosch)
new oil (10w30)
new coolant
new VW OEM themostat o-ring
new VW OEM timing belt
new VW OEM timing belt tensioner
new VW OEM intermediate shaft o-ring (green)
new VW OEM coolant level sensor
new VW OEM coolant expantion tank
new VW OEM coolant hose (big one)


----------



## rockin16v (Aug 31, 2001)

*rebuilding a 1.8L PL head?*

rebuilding a 1.8L PL head?
Here is the list of parts you'll need for a full rebuild. a lot of these are reusable, but here is the list:
cleaned 
ported and polished (intake aggressive, exhaust mild) (optional)
shaved 0.015" to bump compression to 11.0:1 (optional)
stage II intake cam 276° (optional)
stage III exhaust cam 280° (optional)
new valve seals (16)
new exaust valve guides (8)
3-way valve grind
assembled by machine shop (valves)
new valve stem seals (16)
new throttle body gasket (both)
new intake gaskets (upper and lower)
new valve cover gasket
new inner spark plug gasket
new cam seals (left and right)
new cam chain
44mm intake manifold (part #027 133 223 AF)
port matched intake/to gasket and head to intake (recommended)
new VW OEM distributor 
new VW OEM Hall sender
new VW OEM bosch cap
new VW OEM bosch rotor
new VW OEM head gasket (2L)
new VW OEM temperature sensor (2)
new VW OEM stretch head bolts (16)
new VW OEM water temp sending unit
new VW OEM bosch 4 tri electrode plugs
new VW OEM oil pressure switch (0.15 bar)
new VW OEM oil pressure switch (1.8 bar)
new VW OEM allen bolts
new VW OEM oil breather gasket
new VW OEM fuel injector seals (8 -4 thin & 4 thick) - 1 of each on each injector


----------



## rockin16v (Aug 31, 2001)

*Re: rebuilding a 1.8L PL head? (rockin16v)*

and here is what to do with all those parts


----------



## r4r3f0rm (Dec 11, 2002)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (130_R)*

The fuel pump for 1987 - 1989 16v differs from that in a 1990-92. The Jetta's 16v fuel pump is different from the 8valve and the 16v pump from a scirocco. The prepump on 16v's (intank fuel pump) are accessible without dropping the fuel tank. But no matter what you do... you will smell like gas for a week or two.


----------



## Action Jackson (Nov 20, 2001)

*Re: European 16v fuel FAQ's (Jett'in)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jett'in* »_A G60 downpipe will fit a 16v. 
I bought one and it bolts up just the same.
I am adding this b/c if you have a cracked and/or leaking downpipe, the G60 ones you will find for sale have lower mileage on them and are usually in much better condition than the used 16v ones. 
Good luck!
Interesting. Does the G60 dp offer better flow too? Or the same? Would this be a cheap mod for power gains?


----------



## Jett'in (Aug 20, 2001)

*Re: European 16v fuel FAQ's (Action Jackson)*

It is just a direct replacememnt for the 16v.
As far as I know it is the same size and should flow the same


----------



## ValveFloat (Aug 12, 1999)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Der_Tizzy)*

How to remove AC.
Golf/Jetta II FAQ page 4 towards the bottom.


----------



## Space9888 (Mar 18, 2002)

*Re: 16v FAQ: THE MOST COMMON PROBLEM (rockin16v)*

Just to Make things a little clearer for anyone who is building a 16v or those of you who forgot to mark the pullies before pulling the timming belt off.
the "dot" on the flywheel shown above is the reference for timming the crank to the cams (as stated zero degrees TDC)








the "hash" mark on the flywheel is a reference for ignition timming (6 degrees BTDC).
Be sure to use the "dot" on the flywheel to time the engine (crank to cams) not the hash mark as this will make a mess of your valve train.


----------



## mullet92 (Jun 4, 2003)

*Re: 16v FAQ: THE MOST COMMON PROBLEM (Space9888)*

If I got a new 1.8 16v intake mani and tb 42mm
What would I have to do to fit it to a 2.0 16v???
New to 16v engine and forum soo help me out


----------



## MKIIKenneth (Aug 12, 2003)

*just bought 86, has a 16V underneath*

this is my first project car and i am new at this. i've tried posting other places and haven't gotten much help. i have a few questions.
1) how can i find out the year of my engine for parts?
2) oil dripping onto the exhaust manifold and burning off in a cloud of smoke, but only if i use the clutch or use reverse alot when i drive it. How can i fix this?
3) alternater drivebelt and/or bearings screach when in a low gear, stops when the engine goes above 3000 RPMs. What is it, how can i fix it?
I would appreciate the help, i have only dabbled in the home mechanic thing for a short time know.


----------



## BubbleBLOCK (Jul 27, 2002)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (130_R)*

*Fuel Enrichment Module* 
Here is how to make a Fuel Enrichment module for those with CisE
Quite detailed with pics: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...age=1
*MKIII Alternator/Serpentine Swap* 
Here is how to retrofit a MKIII alternator and serpentine design
Very explicit with detailed list of parts needed: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...20530


_Modified by BubbleBLOCK at 7:32 AM 9-3-2003_


----------



## rockin16v (Aug 31, 2001)

*16v leaky downpipe options*

Option 1) TT repair kit ($100usd):
http://www.techtonicstuning.com/images/parts/253.001.jpg








Option 2) TT race downpipe (loud)($250usd)::
http://techtonicstuning.com/viewpart.asp?partnum=251.203S








Option 3) TT Downpipe to weld on OEM cat ($125usd):
http://techtonicstuning.com/viewpart.asp?partnum=251.225








Option 4) cheapo replacement part ($136 usd for dp and cat)
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1104392
http://www.discountconverter.c...30091










_Modified by rockin16v at 9:58 AM 6-18-2004_


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## rockin16v (Aug 31, 2001)

*Re: 16v leaky downpipe options (rockin16v)*

OEM stretch head bolt torque specs
10-4-2-6-8 
7-5-1-3-9
front of engine
and the torquing is : 30 ftlbs, 43 ftlbs, then 1/2 turn or 2 1/4 turns. Torque everytime following the bolt pattern above.


----------



## Lord_Balsac (Feb 13, 2003)

*Re: 16v leaky downpipe options (rockin16v)*

Finding your ECU number (needed for ordering a performance chip) _1990-92 2.0L 16V Ke-Motronic_ 

-Remove Plastic Tray located between engine and windshield (driver side)
-Slide the two wire harness's off of the ECU mounting bracket
-Using a 10mm Socket (with medium extension) remove the nut securing the ECU to the car (dig through the leaves!)
-Slightly Lift and slide the ECU foward; out of its two white mounting clips
-Turn it over
-There is a Bosch Part number and an ECU number (should start with an 8)
-Write the ECU Number down and Go order your freakin CHIP!


----------



## H8SV8S (Jan 22, 2004)

Here's a link with plenty of Dyno tests by the UK lads. It's a great way of comparing what mod does what, with a lot of focus on camshafts and 2.0 bottom end swaps:
http://gvk.altrezia.com/


----------



## jbmolly (Feb 4, 2004)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (130_R)*

OK Guys new to this VW stuff heres what i got and what I know abou it.
1987 Scirocco 16V: Things i know it has.
1. Eurosport header with 2 1/4" exhaust with 2 chamber flowmaster
2. K&N airfilter
3. it has a tag on the pan in front of the radiator that has neuspeed cams installed on it and has 2 #'s and says to tune to factory specs.
has what looks like braided steel fuel lines??? is this stock?
4. short throw shifter
5. tokico adjustable shocks and h&r springs
6. Neuspeed strutt tower brace (front and rear)
7. aftermarket sway bars underneath
Things i would like to find out.(I know almost imposssible without tearing apart or asking previous owner)
if it has upgraded fuel system(is there a way to measure a fuel rail or anything)
what size throttle body( is there a way to tell what size by a part number?)
how much wheel horsepower? does anyone know where a dyno is around charlotte area
I know this car is super fast and handle like it's on a rail.
Thanks for any help. Brian


----------



## adrnlnjunki (Mar 11, 2004)

im new to the vw's. when i replace the timing belt what do i do with the alignment of the intermediate gear or does it even need alignment?


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: (adrnlnjunki)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bentley, 3-14* »_Note:
It is not necessary to time the intermediate shaft on 16-valve engines.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: (VDub2625)*

Pin numbering for Harness testing. 
With the row of 18 pins on top (or the cable coming out of the left side of the connector)
top row 1-18 left to right
bottom row 19-35 left to right


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## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

*Re: (GTIRIDER)*

Here is a pic of the 16v sensor's.


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 15, 2004)

*Re: (MBRACKLIFFE)*

Just curious...the oil pressure sensors in the pic above #1 and #2 are reversed im my car. The white one is over the oil filter and the black one is behind it. Which way is correct? My oil light and buzzer trun on at 2500 rpms. I'm hoping this is by problem.
Another question, there is something that looks like a coolant temp sensor like #5 on both sides of the water outlet. There is no wire going to the front one on mine but a sensor is there. Any ideas? My car is an 88 GLI.
thanks,


----------



## ValveFloat (Aug 12, 1999)

My 88 GTI had the sensor in front of the water outlet with no wire attached to it also. I never did determine what is was for.


----------



## zero666cool (Apr 17, 2004)

*Re: (ValveFloat)*

Good stuff bumppp http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## XenoX (Jan 25, 2004)

*Re: I need help with origins of this 2.0 16v engine block......*

Great info so far!! I especially liked the sensor posts and many of the links on page 1. Learning....
I need help with origins of this 2.0 16v engine block.
I'm not a seasoned 2.0 16v engine veteran, I'm researching the web, used search, tried everything but calling the dealer. I want to ask in this thread next. I'd like to know for for parts procurement purposes, if need be .

Any information regarding year, and parts compatibility with other 
engines will be greatly appreciated.
A friend has an engine with the identical 7 digit number with a 9A
above the distributor, my block reads 27J. the block serial (?) number
is 053 103 021B
Any links including this engine or any others would be appreciated, I've seen a few but this engine does not appear. 
It constantly occurs to me that I'm doing something wrong.
Thanks


----------



## KingofNod (Jun 28, 2003)

Any tips for somone looking to buy their first 16v? (2.0 hopefullY).


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: (KingofNod)*

The cam wheel needs to be bolted to the exhuast cam with the part numbers in (facing the engine)


----------



## sharkytm (Jul 6, 2003)

*Bolting a 16v to an engine stand.*

*Bolting a 16v to an engine stand.*
The bolts needed to attach your 16v to an engine stand:
You will use 3 threaded holes for the tranny, and 2 unthreaded holes on the periphery of the block.
Buy:
4 (you only need 3) M12x1.75 bolts 80mm or so long. No nuts are required.
3 (you need 2) M12x1.75 bolts 120mm long. Get nuts to fit these. 
Washers can help correct the length if need be. The "M12x1.75" means; M stands for metric, 12 is the thickness of the bolt, and 1.75 stands for the thread pitch, basically the distance from thread to thread


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## GintsK (Sep 13, 2004)

*Can enyone help me with this: PL swirl to "9A"*

Is it possible to bore 1.8 PL/KR engine block for 82.5mm?
I want to put 9A crankshaft, rods, pistons in to my old KR block. Block height, as I understand, is the same (?)
Thanks for help!


----------



## rhussjr (Aug 7, 2000)

*Re: Can enyone help me with this: PL swirl to "9A" (GintsK)*

It is possible to bore the KR/PL engine to 83.5mm (some say 84.0mm - but I do not reccomend it). Clearancing the block, oil pump and intermediate shaft is necessary to fit the 92.8 crank in the block.


----------



## A2jettafreak (Apr 24, 2002)

*Re: Can enyone help me with this: PL swirl to "9A" (rhussjr)*

hey i saw some previous post but still 
need info on:
1.8 head vs 2.0 head.??? good or bad..
port n polish manifold.. and or p n p head
I have a 2.0 16v gli thinking on possibly doing the 1.8 head swap.. currently my car need a new exuast manifold and a downpipe..
its cracked pretty bad.. ot the point were exuast fumes come up through the engine bay.
figured since i have to remove manifold ill polish the intake one.. and change the head.


----------



## asinryan (Jul 3, 2003)

*Re: Can enyone help me with this: PL swirl to "9A" (A2jettafreak)*

as far as i know...if your slapping a stock head on a block, the 1.8 is the way to go, but if your ever "building" or getting any work done to the a 16v head, the 2.0 is the better over all head to do this too.


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## A2jettafreak (Apr 24, 2002)

*Re: Can enyone help me with this: PL swirl to "9A" (ALLMOTORtt20)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ALLMOTORtt20* »_as far as i know...if your slapping a stock head on a block, the 1.8 is the way to go, but if your ever "building" or getting any work done to the a 16v head, the 2.0 is the better over all head to do this too.


sounds right after i id some more research.. thanx.. because it seems if i p n p a 2.0 i get more than the 1.8 p n p...
same if i do valve job etc.. 
looking into it as we speak.. hope to have some major motor work done by spring.. the choices are hard!


----------



## halbwissen (Jul 20, 2001)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (130_R)*

knock sensor discussion:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...85614


----------



## Cynical 1 (Jan 23, 2003)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (DriveVW4Life)*

Any info on dual carbs or ITB's on a 16V? 1.8L specifically?
Or displacement increase fron 1.8 to 1.9+?


----------



## Action Jackson (Nov 20, 2001)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Cynical 1)*

I've just successfully replaced the O2 sensor in my CIS-E Motronic ladened Passat, which has made an unbelievable difference in my etest. First time failed, second time passed. Why?? well I learned a little something...
The generic Bosch 3 wire sensor sold by VW uses a 4 wire connector plug. When you buy a non-VW specific sensor and have to splice the wires together you might be missing out on the fact that the 4th wire coming from the ECU wire harness is key. The Bentley wire diagram shows all 4 wires from the ECU going to the 4 wire connector. The signal is wrapped and shielded along with the ground wire, while the O2 sensor heater wires are kept separate. When the VW specific O2 sensor is installed, the only wires leading from the connector plug to the sensor are the signal and two heater wires. The fourth wire (ground) has a wire that comes straight out of the O2 sensor 4 wire connector plug about 3 inches, and ends with an eyelet to be attached to a ground point on the rear motor mount (at least on the Passat). It has been explained to me by a friend who knows more about electronics than I, that this ground wire plays a very important role in shielding the signal wire from excessive noise, allowing for a clean path from sensor to ECU.
Now previously I had installed the generic 3 wire sensor and spliced the heater and signal wires together and left this ground wire capped and loose in the harness. When trying to adjust the DPR current for optimum performance I would often get really wacky responses, and never had the same reading twice from day to day. Since my initial emissions test was pathetically failed I gave in and though that my generic 3 wire sensor just didn't do the job as the "factory" sensor and I spent $170's on an actually Bosch sensor from VW. Would you believe the sensor I was provided at the dealer had the same Bosch part number on it as the generic one














So no difference there, but I did hook up the wires including ground and now find incredible difference in drive-ability. So when hooking up your generic Bosch O2 3 wire sensor, remember to attach the ground wire in the ECU harness to the ground point at the rear motor mount.
Also: I followed Scirocco16v's CIS-E fuel Mixture write up and found it very helpful. However for those really into the DPR adjustment for uber fine tuning, I wish to share with you something that Sciricco16v fails to mention on his website. When establishing a baseline for your DPR current, I discovered that I could get much more than 1 mA difference in readings with having accessories turned on. In fact 3 mA leaner was seen on my car when comparing the DPR current with the blower motor turned to the #3 position, and the rear defrost turned on and having those same accessories turned off.
But I still passed my etest, so its all happy days! Rev on.


----------



## CSDis4lovers (Mar 13, 2003)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Action Jackson)*

brakes, though not exclusive to 16v's...
rear disk brakes, if looking at purchasing a used 16v (as they all have rear disk brakes) if the e-brake does not engage, chances are your calipers are frozen, expensive item, but you can convert them to mk4 calipers (lighter in design).


----------



## turbomustang (May 22, 2004)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (tibz23)*

my car is very hard to push............and i know the e-brake cables are pulling because i just adjusted them, but it doesnt work.............
tell me more of this mk4 rear caliper conversion


----------



## g60vw (Oct 3, 2002)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (turbomustang)*

Here's a link to the super links page that PowerDubs posted up. Deff. needed to be in the FAQ.!!
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1812372
Garth


----------



## SoCal_GLI (Jun 21, 2002)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (g60vw)*

i was reading about the smaller exhaust ports on the 1.8L 16v head, and the power loss due to it. would it be possible to have the head bored to bigger exhaust ports to regain the loss of power compared to the 2.0 16v head?
im just curious cause i was planning on getting a 1.8L head for my 2.0L motor, but after reading the differences i was wondering if it would be worth the trouble? rather than just porting and polishing my 2.0L head


----------



## CTScirocco (Jun 11, 2004)

You may want to check out this link for another opinion.
http://www.scirocco16v.com/tech/faq_18v20.htm


----------



## SoCal_GLI (Jun 21, 2002)

*Re: (CTScirocco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CTScirocco* »_You may want to check out this link for another opinion.
http://www.scirocco16v.com/tech/faq_18v20.htm


thanks that cleared it up alot http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

*Re: (SoCal_GLI)*

heres a quick breakdown of the scirocco 1 radiator install.
ill add to this with the pns or models of hoses once i get to that point.








shave that little tab off to make room for the cap








drill a hole, put a bolt in and sandwhich the bolt with some lockwashers and then add another nut and washer to bolt the rad with








thats it. easy enough


_Modified by ValveCoverGasket at 12:50 PM 3-23-2005_


----------



## 89JettaGTX (Mar 19, 2005)

I've got a problem and need someones knowledge. I pulled my oil pan today to replace a gasket and check the oil pump, and when i looked into my oil pan there were these little brown or tan pebble like pieces. Now to tell you the truth im not sure if they are metal or actual stone but if anyone knows anything about it then please fill me in. Also I turned the engine by hand and heard my #1 cylinder hissing like crazy and its not suppose to do that. any help is appreciated.


----------



## mxman (Jul 31, 2003)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (130_R)*

expensive plug wires? break the insulator like me...at the dist cap? dont want to pay $250 to replace the wires (ripoff).....

YOU CAN REPAIR THE PLUGWIRE RIGHT ANGLE PIECE!!!!
Just take a spare wire, or a coil to dist cap wire...slide the boot back (oil it or get it wet) hold the wire firmly with one hand... turn the right angle plug with the other hand...back and forth it feels like you will rip the wires out...dont worry, turn it back and forth and it will pop off!!!
install on the other plugwire and re install! YAYY YOU SAVED $250!!!!


----------



## Clint VW VW wood (Oct 28, 2003)

looking at getting a 1.8 16v.. what will I need to get it running in an 83 jetta 1.7l 8v (CIS).


----------



## m_shea (Dec 23, 2004)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (AtariMasta)*

92 passat 16v swap into a 86 cab - wiring issues
hello
i aquired a 92 passat 2.0 16v as a parts car and decided to swap the engine, fuel management, computer into my cabriolet. i've got both engines out and the engine wiring harnesses out of both. i'm really confused with the passat harness though. basically, my guess is that not everything that is a part of that harness needs to be hooked back up in the cabriolet to make it work (ex: all 6-7 of the harnesses that were plugged into the back of the fuse/relay panel). does anyone have a good detailed description of what exactly needs to be wired up to make the swap possible. i'm sort of committed to it now due to the work that has already been done. any advice would be great.
peace
mike


----------



## KingofNod (Jun 28, 2003)

I got idle surge. Just replaced the headgasket, and messed around with timing to get it running normally (or as normal as a 15 year old 9A can run). Motronic is bieng it's usual self, and the engine is surging randomly. It doesn't do it all the time, but it has done it twice now. It only does it at idle, and it will bounce from idle speed (around 900) to about 1100 RPM's very quickly. I was thinking vacuum leak, but can't find any. Any other causes for Idle surge? I also noticed that my car idles better with the ISV unhooked, but it has no effect on the idle surge when the motor is doing it.


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## G_V_K (Dec 28, 2004)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (g60vw)*


_Quote »_Here's a link to the super links page that PowerDubs posted up. Deff. needed to be in the FAQ.!!
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1812372
Garth


http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


















_Modified by G_V_K at 12:08 AM 6-19-2005_


----------



## SooprmanX (Sep 12, 2003)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (130_R)*

MK2 Shifter alignment DIY
http://www.strictlyea.com/features/diyshifter.html


----------



## 89gtiohio (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (130_R)*

help needed here !!! im new to the vw scene i finally got the car i always wanted but the second day i drove it my timing belt broke at a red light














my car is an 89 golf gti 1.8 16v i have always wanted one of these cars now i have it i end up ruining it. i havent removed the head to see the extent of the damage. do you guys have any suggestions? cash is kinda thin so please no extremely expensive suggestions im a single parent and my 13 yo son loves this car too!!!
Email [email protected]
thanks for your help and be careful


----------



## sciroccosven (Sep 16, 2001)

*Odometer fix?*

Can someone post a link to the thread regaurding detailed information on how to fix the gears in the odometer. The search is down and I think this would be a great place to stick this in. Its a very common problem including my car right now.


----------



## 16v (Aug 4, 1999)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (130_R)*

Megasquirt information


----------



## bomberbob (Sep 19, 2004)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (AntoineJo)*

Flip the bracket over, then you don't have to grind any of it off.


----------



## riddler (Aug 10, 2005)

ok so what head is better for a turbo setup, a 1.8 or a 2.0


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: (riddler)*

They are the same if worked a bit. otherwise, one or the other has MINOR flow imporvements on the intake or exhaust valves. But just grab any ol' head and have it ported and such. They will both come out the same.


----------



## Motorwerks (Nov 6, 2002)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Spinyfrog)*

Im sure its been asked a dozen times but what the hell is the thing that goes around my plug wire looks like some kind of pick up or something


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Motorwerks)*

it's so you can pull it out easily


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Motorwerks)*

Pic?
Never heard of that. It sounds like it could be some sort of RF blocker, if it goes to ground...


----------



## Motorwerks (Nov 6, 2002)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (VDub2625)*

Found it in bently FINALLY, its an igniton firing point reference sender


----------



## Dent Reform (Jan 21, 2006)

Hi there
i had a problem today and the speedo and the water temp gauge just died on the motorway and ever since that the water temp guage keeps going up and down
it is a 1.6 16V golf mk4 engin code AZD 
what could be the problem?????????
ANDY


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (Dent Reform)*

Hey, are any of you guys replacing your 9a rods when your building boosted motors?


----------



## vee_dubb_gti (Nov 17, 2004)

*Re: European 16v fuel FAQ's (Jett'in)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jett’in* »_A G60 downpipe will fit a 16v. 
I bought one and it bolts up just the same.
I am adding this b/c if you have a cracked and/or leaking downpipe, the G60 ones you will find for sale have lower mileage on them and are usually in much better condition than the used 16v ones. 
Good luck!

you sure about that? i thought that the G60 was an 8v head and the exhaust studs were stright up and down? the 16v are angled.
16v(they might angle the other way)
/\/\
G60(like 8v but has the 4-2-1)
||||


_Modified by vee_dubb_gti at 6:31 PM 1-24-2006_


----------



## Motorwerks (Nov 6, 2002)

*Re: European 16v fuel FAQ's (vee_dubb_gti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vee_dubb_gti* »_you sure about that? i thought that the G60 was an 8v head and the exhaust studs were stright up and down? the 16v are angled.
 G60=8v head, to the power of 16v down pipe will not work.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: European 16v fuel FAQ's (Motorwerks)*

He said downpipe, not exhaust manifold


----------



## Ahair2fast (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (MBRACKLIFFE)*

i am replacing my head and there is a plug in one of the holes i was transfering the sensers to a was woundering what i would do if i left it out. i beleave it is the thurmo time switch from the earler pictures.


----------



## KingofNod (Jun 28, 2003)

*Re: (Ahair2fast)*

Can someone tell me if a 9A tranny (I think stock 8v tranny) will bolt up to the 9A motor? If not, how can it be made to fit? Aren't the clutches different? How is the gearing on the 9A compare to the gearing on the 2Y?


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: (KingofNod)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KingofNod* »_Can someone tell me if a 9A tranny (I think stock 8v tranny) will bolt up to the 9A motor? If not, how can it be made to fit? Aren't the clutches different? How is the gearing on the 9A compare to the gearing on the 2Y? 

I have a 9a on my PL. It will bolt up, but you have to use an 8v clutch (you can keep he 16v pressure plate). THe gearing is identical except for 5th, which is .89 in the 9a and .91 in the 2y (about a 2mph or 100rpm difference at the same speed).


----------



## MoGtheMooGle (May 14, 2005)

I am currently in the process of finishing up a rebuild on a 9a 2.0L 16v, and I have run into a sticking issue. I CAN NOT manually crank over the engine when I have a wrench on the crank bolt...







Did a COMPLETE rebuild and everything was within specifications.
If anyone has any information about this I would much appreciate some insight. Is this normal? Or, is this something to worry about?
- problem is fixed. turned out that the lubrication we used in the head had dried up a little bit...so we disassembled and reassembled the head with new assembly lube.


_Modified by MoGtheMooGle at 7:40 AM 5-15-2006_


----------



## antdoesart (May 27, 2004)

*Re: (MoGtheMooGle)*

i found this informative
http://www.jwelty.com/engine-swap-info.html


----------



## VWplaything (May 7, 2006)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (AntoineJo)*

Disregard my idiocy....that was an 8valve configuration I mentioned...I'll re-post in the appropriate forum topic.


_Modified by VWplaything at 1:59 PM 6-21-2006_


----------



## MidnightGLI (Dec 15, 2001)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (VWplaything)*

this is my belated contribution to the 16v community of the vortex, nothing scientific but it gives a visual representation of the difference between the stock intake came and the exhaust swapped cam.


----------



## Dyelon (Jul 31, 2006)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (MidnightGLI)*

Does anyone have any info on building a 16vT?
And I have a 02A Tranny for my 9A block how do i tell if its from a G60 or not?
And I would like an opinion on whether or not I should go with a cable clutch or a hydraulic clutch?


----------



## dUbCoupe (Feb 27, 2004)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Dyelon)*

I want to replace my spark plugs on my 16v but can't get any socket In there to pull them out......What special tool do I need and where can I get It?
Thanks


----------



## [email protected] (Aug 25, 2006)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (130_R)*

I may not be doing this correctly but I am trying to get this picture to a place where someone looking for it can find it....
Dear Mr. Moderator....please help me to correctly place this picture of a 16 valve Scirocco vacuum diagram....it is a little dirty but you can tell all of the important connections....Thank you for your help....


----------



## feghea (Nov 12, 2006)

does the 16v KR head feet on the 9a engine blok..... ????
without adittional modofication ????


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: (feghea)*









1.8 16v airflow routing diagram. Great for checking leaks, not just in vacuum lines


----------



## Greengt1 (Aug 27, 2006)

*Re: (VDub2625)*

Here is an intercooler from a 93 Saab 9000 CD
Its about the same size as the volvo one but the ends go down.








You have to remove your brackets that held the condensor in. (couple of 10mm's








Next is to grind away at some of the cross memeber.
































(Just grind away enough inside for intercooler to sit in)
Lastly you get this!








_Modified by Greengt1 at 1:29 AM 11-30-2006_


----------



## smithma7 (Mar 30, 2004)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you ([email protected])*

Cleaned this up last time I saw it. Thought I'd post it here as well.
Still not sure on the "co/ox valve" labeling. Was hard to make out in the original. Can anyone verify? I can correct and reload image.










_Modified by smithma7 at 11:32 PM 1-4-2007_


----------



## Greengt1 (Aug 27, 2006)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (smithma7)*

Carbon monoxide, oxygen valve. it looks like a diaphram and has like 2 vacuum lines going to it...........I'll try to find a pic


----------



## smithma7 (Mar 30, 2004)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Greengt1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Greengt1* »_Carbon monoxide, oxygen valve. it looks like a diaphram and has like 2 vacuum lines going to it...........I'll try to find a pic

So, are you saying that I labeled that one correctly? Looking at the original pic, it's really hard to tell what it said.


----------



## Greengt1 (Aug 27, 2006)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (smithma7)*


_Quote, originally posted by *smithma7* »_
So, are you saying that I labeled that one correctly? Looking at the original pic, it's really hard to tell what it said.

Yes


----------



## feghea (Nov 12, 2006)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Greengt1)*

Does enyone knows or has informations about polished head... soon i'l be replace'in my valves so if i am taking of the head i was thinking maybe polish'it to gain some power...so any advice is welcome...thx


----------



## Jankenstein (Aug 1, 2002)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (130_R)*

Did a DIGI 2 16V Swap into my 90 jetta daily driver .........result....works great!
good strong pull. little headaches, fairly cost effective. 
it never lets me down. never had any intentions of running a turbo or heavy modifications (as its still a daily). but i do know that it is far more reliable than my motronic 16v passat.
just my 2 cents.....thanks for reading


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (mikejank)*

How does it feel compared to the Passat? is the Digi 2 a 1.8 or 2.0?


----------



## MoGtheMooGle (May 14, 2005)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (rebel_eye)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rebel_eye* »_what mouts do i need for a 2.0L 16v block to fit in a mk1 ?
I thought i bolted rigt up .

I will try and get some pics of this later, but here is what you need to know.
There are 4 engine mounts: rear passenger side motor mount, rear transmission motor mount, front transmission motor mount, and a front starter motor mount.
The rear passenger motor mount takes 5 bolts (4 on the motor itself, and one through the mount to the chassis).
The rear transmission motor mount is a rubber piece that bolts below the steering rack, two bolts through the transmission mount bracket, and then bolts onto the transmission with 3 nuts (note, the transmission must be a mk1 or mk1/2 transmission). See this page for more information on which transmissions will work for a mk1 applciation: http://www.brokevw.com/020mount.html.
The front transmission motor mount is much like the mk2 transmission motor mount, except it mounts to the chassis in the front, not the rear. Two long bolts go through the mounting bracket and the transmission, and one bolt goes through the mount itself intot he chassis.
The front starter motor mount is exactly like the mk2 starter mount, except that it has two pieces and a different rubber mount. One piece is a metal "bucket" that bolts to the bottom of the radiator support in the engine bay. The other piece is the bracket that the starter bolts into and has the rubber mount that you have to push onto the end of the bracket. You have to wedge this piece in there to get it to fit correctly, and then bolt up to the starter as normal.


----------



## Sid-Rage (Jun 15, 2004)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (MoGtheMooGle)*

I need some help, i've been looking for some help but no one seems to have it.. so if some one here can help i'd love it.. i bought a 89 helio that had a dead motor.. so i bought another motor from another 89.. i bolted the motor in but i have no idea where all the wires go.. i'm pretty good with the mk4 but have no idea about mk2's.. what type of motor do i have? i know it's a 16v 1.8 but what type of system is it? i'd be real thankful to some help.. i dont want the project to die.. 


_Modified by Sid-Rage at 4:56 PM 2-1-2007_


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Sid-Rage)*

CIS-E. The sensor wires should be in the same places, it should be fairly similar... there aren't that may wires


----------



## MoGtheMooGle (May 14, 2005)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (VDub2625)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VDub2625* »_CIS-E. The sensor wires should be in the same places, it should be fairly similar... there aren't that may wires









not similar, the same...the only difference could be knock-sense ignition, and that would only be a single plug.
to the guy that needs help: re-read this thread and look for the picture of all the sensors. that will tell you what wires go where. if you don't know what they look like on the engine harness, better find out.


----------



## veedubpickup (Aug 20, 2006)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (rebel_eye)*

where can i find/read info. on swapping a 2.0l 16v into a mk1?
thanks


----------



## MoGtheMooGle (May 14, 2005)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (veedubpickup)*


_Quote, originally posted by *veedubpickup* »_where can i find/read info. on swapping a 2.0l 16v into a mk1?
thanks

not sure about where to find specific information. however, swapping a 2.0 16v into a mk1 is relatively easy, except for the dash wiring. motor mounts are simple as they were made for a 16v engine to go into a mk1 chassis (mkII sciroccos came with 16v's, see my previous post about the mk1 motor mounts).
sorry, I don't know much about dash wiring in mk1's, so I would just swap as much of the mkII harness as I could.
basically, you'd have to figure out a way to get the rear wiring harnesses to work with a mkII fuse box and front engine harness, or get a mkII engine bay harness to work with the mk1 fuse box and harness. I'm not really sure which would be the easiest to do.
but, get all the mk1 motor mounts, a mk1/mk2 or mk1 only transmission (again, see previous post about motor mounts), figure out the wiring, and you're done. relatively simple.
additionally, a 2.0L in a mk1 is awesome! I've ridden in a few, and they sure do FLY.


----------



## stil (Mar 19, 2004)

Does anyone know anything about the ACE engine code found in the european Audi 80 16v 2.0l produced between '92-'95 (audi B4), does anyone know if it is Motronic: programmable for turbocharging without using standalone?


----------



## MoGtheMooGle (May 14, 2005)

*Re: (stil)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stil* »_Does anyone know anything about the ACE engine code found in the european Audi 80 16v 2.0l produced between '92-'95 (audi B4), does anyone know if it is Motronic: programmable for turbocharging without using standalone?









what style of block you have shouldn't matter, provided you can fit the proper oil pressure sensors onto it. where the injection system really matters is in the style of head that you put on the block, and even then, not so much. you can run a 16v on motronic, jetronic, digi1, or digi2. all the various information on the particulars for each swap can be found on the vortex by searching. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## stil (Mar 19, 2004)

*Re: (MoGtheMooGle)*

actually i wasn't asking about the engine but the car model and the fuel system runing it! yes true you could run 16v on jetronic to a certain point, digi 1 & digi 2 you have to rewire and motronic probably just burn a chip and may be a map sensor i am not sure that is why im asking. i tried search but no luck. why would head style matter










_Modified by stil at 10:01 AM 3-7-2007_


----------



## wantacaddybad (Jun 14, 2006)

*Re: (rs4-380)*

any one know what to do to turbo a 2.0 16v. still using cis e. is it possible?


----------



## Gede Nimbo (Aug 13, 2004)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (MoGtheMooGle)*

I tried to check all of the archives and I can't find an answer for this one, I am almost done with my digifant 2 16V conversion and need to know what throttle cable do I actually use? I decided to go with the Scirocco 16V intake becuase of my car being a Cabriolet but now I need to know what cable and cable bracket do I use to mount it... I have 3 other things I need to finish up to get this car going... Some of the techies must know about this one....
Pics help too....


----------



## IronTrap (Jun 14, 2001)

16v scirocco throttle cable is what you need. the bracket should be attached to the manifold.. if not you need the matching bracket. 
HTH
-Matt


----------



## manfredwerner (Jan 30, 2007)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (MidnightGLI)*

what does the exh cam give if put in place of intake?
more power? torque? more gas? is it reliable?
thank you.


----------



## Exile AutoWerks (May 31, 2003)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (manfredwerner)*

so I have a 16v 2.0 out of a 91 gli in my 84 mk1 jetta
I pulled the injectors out and cranked it over adn no fuel came out.
Is there a diagram for routing hte hoses? I want to make sure they are all going the places they should

ALSO:
It was an 8v car and they retroed the 16v in. I have wires everywhere and I have about 3 or so that I dont know where they go is there a wiring PICTURE showing where ALL the connections are and go?
This car ran until a friend started unhooking things for a motor pull. now it dont run. anyone have any help or ideas. I have a bentley but its so far been no help.
thanks in advance,
-J_


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Exile AutoWerks)*

Wire colors?
As for the no fuel problem, the injectors only work when the intake is at vacuum (the pistons sucking air in), which raises the fuel plate. No injectors=a big ******** in the intake!







Try manually raising the plate with the key in the "On" position, stuff should come out then.


----------



## Exile AutoWerks (May 31, 2003)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (VDub2625)*

Thanks for the fuel answer.
Wires? Tons.... plugs etc. 3 plug male
2 plug female.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Exile AutoWerks)*

There's lots of 3 and 2 plug connecotrs







if you tell us the colors and approx. location of the connectors, we can help you a lot better


----------



## dubncoco (Jul 24, 2007)

hi, i think i am almost ready to swap my new 16v 2.0L engine in to my 91mk2 gti(8v). just a few things.
what motor mounts will i need? the 1990 passat motor mounts or the mk2 gti motor mounts? and i will be installing my engine without the ac compressor and without power steering. so the bracket is really only there to support my alternator. also does anyone know of a site that sells the adapter for my alternator pulley? i heard i need some kind of adapter to run my alternator with out the ac and power steering.
fuel rails do i need to get a new one? a 16v one?


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: (dubncoco)*

You can go three routes to get rid of AC:
1. Get the non-AC bracket. It moves the alternator to the factory non-AC location, but is tough to locate and expensive.
2. Cut the top half of the bracket off, and install the alternator where the AC compressor used to be. THis is almost exactly like no. 1, but much cheaper.
3. Use a bigger belt on the factory alternator location (mine used a 42" belt), and use the 8v alternator pulley from a car with AC. CHeap, easy, it's what I did and it works fine after 3000 miles so far.


----------



## dubncoco (Jul 24, 2007)

*Re: (VDub2625)*

thanks man! 
does anyone still know what motor mounts ill need? my cars a mk2 gti and my engines a 90passat. do i go buy mk2 gti mountS?


----------



## rice (Jul 19, 2006)

How to tell the difference between a 1.8L 16v and 2.0L 16v head:
http://scirocco.dhs.org/cheapa...mpare/ 

P.S. someone needs to clean up this thread and get rid of the dead links and dead pics.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: (dubncoco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubncoco* »_thanks man! 
does anyone still know what motor mounts ill need? my cars a mk2 gti and my engines a 90passat. do i go buy mk2 gti mountS?

Questions like these are much better suited to a thread, not the FAQ. 
IIRC the mounts are the same, standard VW hydro. The blocks are the same, so you could use your old 8v bracketry bolted to the 16v.


----------



## dubncoco (Jul 24, 2007)

hey i've heard about a 16v2.0L bottom with a 1.8 head? is it good? it just allows you to rev higher? i'm a new and quite confused but really interested


----------



## Rev Jerry (Apr 20, 2006)

This picture disappeared from page two. Back in the FAQ you go!


----------



## GermanRob (Mar 1, 2007)

*Re: (Rev Jerry)*

back from the dead.... anyone have solid info on the compression ratio's for the 16v motors?


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

*Re: (GermanRob)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GermanRob* »_back from the dead.... anyone have solid info on the compression ratio's for the 16v motors?

1.8L 16v = 10:1 CR
2.0L 16v = 10.8:1 CR


----------



## I_8_your_donut (Feb 19, 2007)

*Re: (schwartzmagic)*

Anybody have solid info of the compression ratio when you swap a 1.8 16V head vs. a 2.0 16V head onto a 2.0 ABA block?


----------



## Scuba Stevo (Sep 8, 2005)

So 2.0l can be chipped and 1.8 cannot, and the tt fuel enrichment mod can be added to the 1.8l to have a similar effect to the f/e/m, but if I have a 2.0 bottom end, and a 1.8 head, could I have both chip and fuel mod?


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: (Scuba Stevo)*

IT'S NOT BASED ON THE BLOCK, IT'S BASED ON THE MANAGEMENT. iF YOU HAVE A 2.0 BLOCK UNDER THE 1.8 HEAD (AND THE OLDER 1.8 MANAGEMENT), YOU CAN ONLY USE THE FUEL ENRICHMENT MOD.
I had the caps lock on, I'm sorry, but I'm not retyping it


----------



## Scuba Stevo (Sep 8, 2005)

For a second there I thought you were will ferrel in that snl skit where he can't control the monotone volume of his voice lol. Thanks man, so the 1.8 managment doesnt use an ecu right? Thats what I heard and was wondering how accurate it is


_Modified by Scuba Stevo at 11:31 PM 1-7-2008_


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: (Scuba Stevo)*

Not really. It uses 3 seperate computers, for fuel, spark, and timing. The 2.0 ECU has all that in one unit, and is chippable.


----------



## Scuba Stevo (Sep 8, 2005)

gotcha. so you have to upgrade all 3 separately?


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: (Scuba Stevo)*

No, you can't upgrade them at all.
It's a complicated system, but they're seperate and independent, and "stupid", if you will. They need to be tricked to run differently







Motronic brains are "smart" and can learn and adapt, and accept different programming.
But the FAQ isn't the place for this sort of thing, get your module and go with it


----------



## Scuba Stevo (Sep 8, 2005)

I know I know, there are forums for this kinda stuff too. Just a couple simple questions, thanks brudda


----------



## 16vguygti89 (Jan 11, 2008)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (AntoineJo)*

i just bought a 16v and the guy before me did the same thing but ghetto rigged it i just need to know how the bottom of the alternator is mounted so i can fix mine thanks


----------



## alpinemkll (Jan 23, 2008)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (16vguygti89)*

Is there a big difference in performance between the 2.0l and 1.8l 16v? since you cant chip the 1.8, how does the fuel enrichment compare with a chip on a 2.0l? Is the chip a lot better or what


----------



## captain8Vkirk (Jan 26, 2007)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (alpinemkll)*


_Quote, originally posted by *alpinemkll* »_Is there a big difference in performance between the 2.0l and 1.8l 16v? since you cant chip the 1.8, how does the fuel enrichment compare with a chip on a 2.0l? Is the chip a lot better or what


If im not mistaken, the 1.8 has a 800 rpm higher rev range than the 2.0l, but the 2.0 has more HP.


----------



## alpinemkll (Jan 23, 2008)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (captain8Vkirk)*

you are correct so that translate into a faster car? Im trying to decide if i should wait for a 2.0l to buy or also be open to the 1.8...


----------



## mk2gtilover (Dec 5, 2007)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (AntoineJo)*

just wondering, the adjusting bracket the alternator is hanging from, is that the oem one, it looks alot longer than normal. Also, why did you cut the mounting bracket? couldnt you have just moved the alt down to where the a/c was? Thanks man


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (mk2gtilover)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk2gtilover* »_just wondering, the adjusting bracket the alternator is hanging from, is that the oem one, it looks alot longer than normal. Also, why did you cut the mounting bracket? couldnt you have just moved the alt down to where the a/c was? Thanks man









He did mount the alternator where the AC was. You have to cut the old alternator mounts because they get in the way, and won't let the alternator move like it should. He also might have used the non-AC upper bracket, but I'm not sure. I've heard you can just cut the slider a little longer? Would be nice if you can just use the stock one!
Here's a great AC delete thread:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3335420


----------



## mk2gtilover (Dec 5, 2007)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (VDub2625)*

thanks for he info http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## DustyGTI (Apr 16, 2005)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (mk2gtilover)*

I'm a little noob when it comes to 16v motors. I have a full digi2 setup that was running from an 89 jetta. I plan on putting that in an 88 cabriolet. Only worry is the wiring. Not sure what fuse panel to use. Splice in the engine harness from the jetta or what. Any wiring help would be amazing.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (DustyGTI)*

You might want to think about getting a Digi 2 harness from a Cabriolet and modifying that for the 16v.
You could also splice the Digi 2 harness to the Cabby's fuse box, which isn't too hard. I haven't done it but there aren't that many wires.


----------



## DustyGTI (Apr 16, 2005)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (VDub2625)*

Just wondering if anyone knew which wires need to be sliced into the cabby's fuse panel?


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (DustyGTI)*

What month was the 89 built? DO you know the last 6 of the VIN?
Easier question: was it CE2? Did it have a single plug cluster?


----------



## DustyGTI (Apr 16, 2005)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (VDub2625)*

the jetta or the cabby? I'm perty sure the jetta had a one plug cluster.


----------



## 1.8scirocco16v (Aug 28, 2007)

I have problems with my idle..... the idle bounces up and down and has lack of power when it wasrms up and sometimes when its cold....when i come to a stop ( when i used to drive it dont anymore because of the exhaust leak and lack of power) it stalls? 
thanks for the help!!!


----------



## MoGtheMooGle (May 14, 2005)

*Re: (1.8scirocco16v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8scirocco16v* »_I have problems with my idle..... the idle bounces up and down and has lack of power when it wasrms up and sometimes when its cold....when i come to a stop ( when i used to drive it dont anymore because of the exhaust leak and lack of power) it stalls? 
thanks for the help!!!

clean your ISV then see if it still does that.


----------



## 1.8scirocco16v (Aug 28, 2007)

were is the ISV located i just picked one up for 25 bucks im gonna clean my one first then try throwing the other one in 
thanks for your help... if it wasnt for this site i would get nowere with my car!


----------



## MoGtheMooGle (May 14, 2005)

*Re: (1.8scirocco16v)*

ISV is on the lower intake manifold, mounted on the driver's side with a bracket. has a 3-pin connector going to it, and two lines connected to it. clean it with carb cleaner, dry it, and reinstall.


----------



## germanrox (Mar 30, 2001)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (rockin16v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rockin16v* »_for 020 transmission information check out http://cars.vwsport.com/gears/index.html
it has gear ratios (1-5 and ring and pinion), information on SMS (self machining syndrome), speed / RPM calculator, excel spreadsheet download to calculate speeds (thanks Ron P), speedometer gear information and part numbers, and lots of other useful information.

*404*


----------



## 1.8scirocco16v (Aug 28, 2007)

k here is the deal.. .i have a 87 scirocco 16v and the idle was bouncing like crazy... i did a full tune up and it ran good .. then the idles bounced like crazy so i adjusted my distributor and it idled perfect... 
now the problem i put my intake boot back on and all the vaccum lines and i noticed the clip that goes into thefront of the fuel distributor was gone! i started it up it ran .. but would really bog out... i need to know were that line runs so i can track it down i dont know were it went i looked all over! 
Thanks Guys, 
Devvon


----------



## shyrockfreak (Nov 1, 2005)

*Re: (2Lscirocco16v)*

o.k. so i did an 8v 1986 conversion to a 16v 2L with 1987 scirocco engine harness and '86 body harness.....that was three years ago and i didn't document the event. i failed to mention that the 8v had dealer cruise control, that worked! now i have an '86 no cruise, and i'm stuck on what to do..... the fuel pump is not getting power, which means the fuse panel is not 'congruint' to the engine harness set-up i have. i have a harness that runs '78 rabbit injection with a saab distributer, the '86 engine harness with some bad grounds and the "mechanical fuel distributer" to run the CIS injection that came with the car, also running part of the knock sensor harness, or changing the fuse panel to the previously mentioned 16v set-up(in avatar)......anyone in florida that enjoys a beer and is a saturday trip from orlando that could personally help out, would be much appreciated!!!!


----------



## GTI Mama (Jul 22, 2008)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (130_R)*

I have a 1.8L 16V 88 GTI. Just had the whole upper redone. Now when driving the oil temp light comes on (239F) and the water temp goes to the 3/4 mark. It never went that high before. Also was running 20-50 oil before. I think he put in 10-30. Any thing I should start to look at?


----------



## Bric-2.1T (Aug 11, 2008)

Ive been hearing alot about the 8v 2.0 to a 16v head, i have a MKIV jetta
i can only find 16v heads up to MKIIIs and i heard they're useless
i just want to know if anyone has tried to do this conversion with my engine or should i just say hell with it, port it and throw a turbo on?


----------



## MoGtheMooGle (May 14, 2005)

*Re: (Bric-2.1T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bric-2.1T* »_Ive been hearing alot about the 8v 2.0 to a 16v head, i have a MKIV jetta
i can only find 16v heads up to MKIIIs and i heard they're useless
i just want to know if anyone has tried to do this conversion with my engine or should i just say hell with it, port it and throw a turbo on?

the motor you are hearing about is the ABF. it takes an 2.0L 8v "ABA" bottom end and mates it to a 16v head. Bahn Brenner sells a kit to make all the pulleys work. it's an awesome block/head combination and can throw down some impressive numbers.
but, I've never seen someone attempt to put that into a mkIV...it's typically done in mk1/mk2 cars.


----------



## daniresch (Jan 14, 2006)

*Re: (MoGtheMooGle)*

someone put this on the first page http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
replace the timing belts!!!
i learned the hard way
pictures would have scared me more:
mine..








another members


----------



## v w junky (Sep 30, 2008)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (JettaManDan)*

you need your mk1 mounts , they bolt in the same spots as a 1.8 block , the block is about1/2 inch taller , you might need to do some mods to your exaust , other than that i had no trouble putting one in my rabbit truck


----------



## PsychadelicPassatPhil (Oct 1, 2008)

can someone tell me if my car is an 8v or 16v? ha


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*

96 Passat GLS? It's an 8v.
It's also not a Wolfsburg Edition. It just has those side badges to fill the hole where the European turn signal goes, they mean nothing.


----------



## PsychadelicPassatPhil (Oct 1, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (VDub2625)*

right on, thanks dude so that would be ABA then correct? and Mk3 jetta parts should fit into it? sorry haha just another punk ass wanting to make my dumb 2.0 have a little more kick


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*

Yeah, it's pretty much identical to any OBD2 ABA except the manifold has a big VW logo instead of a little logo and a "2.0" on it.


----------



## fixwithahammer (Dec 4, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (VDub2625)*

how do you get the injectors out. do you just pull them or what is the best method. are 8v the same as 16v injecters


----------



## daniresch (Jan 14, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (fixwithahammer)*

16v injectors are press fit, just pull up


----------



## SimonWagen (Oct 18, 2008)

does anyone know if a 16v could fit on my '82 1.6 gti.... thx


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: (SimonWagen)*

I'm sure it could fit on the hood. Might dent it though. Might fit on the roof too. The hatch is angled too much for it to fit on there.


----------



## SimonWagen (Oct 18, 2008)

what i want to know is, if i have a 1.6 8v gas engine, can i turned into a 16v??? sorry, but my english is not the best...


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*

Sorry I'm mean







but there are a lot better places to put that question then in the FAQ. Try making a new thread in this forum or in the Mk1 forum and you'll get a lot better answers.


----------



## Wermz (Jul 4, 2006)

Trying to Identify this sending unit. Been digging through my Bently for a while now with no luck.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*

Engine bay temp, for the fan after-run. Keeps the fan running up to 10 mins on low to bring down the bay temp for easier hot starts.


----------



## Wermz (Jul 4, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (VDub2625)*

Thanks. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dmitry88 (Apr 26, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (Wermz)*

i want to do a indivialual throttle body set up on my 16v...now its a stock. 2.0l 16v....the 1.8 head has bigger intake ports..so for most power is that the head i want.? just wondering whats the best head to run for a 16v ITB set up


----------



## 90vwpain (Sep 16, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Wermz)*

Where did this wire mount? I have the same wire dangling and I cannot find where it goes. I have also been through the Bentley as well.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (90vwpain)*

Did you read the reply?
The black wire is for the engine bay temp sensor, a little sensor that screws into a bracket and has a single spade connector on it. Check around the valve cover.


----------



## JonnyPhenomenon (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (VDub2625)*

Hey guys, I am working on compiling a list of my DIY's, anjd I thought I would cross post one here. 
as most of us 16v guys have encountered before, the distributors on our engins tend to leak. here is my tried and true rebuild solution.
just follow the link for the complete original post.








http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3536766


----------



## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Spinyfrog)*

this is for all those who want to keep the wiring system out of the donar car whether it be CE1 or CE2
http://www.a2resource.com/elec....html

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*

Thanks


----------



## zerogravityGTI (Apr 26, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (VDub2625)*








this might be a headache, 
in my build thread, check sig. 
got a 86 GTI 8v, swapping in a 16v 2.0l from GLI (as previous owner states from GLI and was swapping into his 89 mk2, but sold the motor to me), still running the ce1 cis-e setup. harness question got the engine bay harness that came with the motor, really clean and no cuts. now for the engine harness, i am still in trouble finding one that contains a 10pin plug coming from the engine harness, (heard it is rare!). so i gave up looking for one, and was told i can use my existing 8v engine harness, which i need to cut and splice. is that true? if so, what wires do i cut and splice to make make my swap done. 
thank you, hope this isn't a headache to help.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*

First off, if it's really a 2.0 running the factory setup, it's got CIS-E Motronic 9different from Jetronic on 85-89 CIS cars), and the harness is ready for CE2, not CE1.
What 10 pin plug are you looking for?
And being an 96 GI,. it's got the US wiring system, which is completely not compatible (plug-and-play-wise) with the engine. You can splice but it's a bit of work. You might have better luck swapping the whole car to CE2 (any 89-99 CE2 fuse block, rear 90-92 Golf harness, any CE2 Mk2 front end, dash, cluster, heater, and headlight switch harness).


----------



## zerogravityGTI (Apr 26, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (VDub2625)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VDub2625* »_What 10 pin plug are you looking for?

the other end that goes from this 10pin plug is the engine harness and located driver side fire wall








1st off what do think this bay harness is off from (10pin plug)? 
the engine bay harness is already hooked/plugged in to the fusebox, ecm, ignition, knockbox, etc. The other end of the 10pin plug should go to all the o2, throttle switch, etc. pretty much that plugs in and wraps the engine (that i dont have) 


_Modified by zerogravityGTI at 2:11 PM 2-12-2009_


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (zerogravityGTI)*

Oh. Crap. That's a US built wiring harness. You can't swap Motronic into that without doing a lot of cutting and splicing.
Wait... so the car has CE2? What harness is that connector attached to?


----------



## zerogravityGTI (Apr 26, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (VDub2625)*

the whole car is ce1 still. the harness is plugged into a jetronic ce1 ecm. 
so are saying the bay harness that contains the 10pin plug is a ce2? 
i was told it was a ce1, by most vw mech. shop and by the seller!


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*

That 10 pin plug is neither CE1 or CE2. It's the US-built Golf wiring system. it's not compatible with CE1 or CE2.


----------



## zerogravityGTI (Apr 26, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (VDub2625)*

oh man........... not to worry I'll just take out all the engine bay harness, and look for the right one and install the right harness for this swap. just start over and do it right, thank you vdub2625


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*

That is the engine bay harness? Like, for the oil pressure, waer temp, etc? Is it hooked up to the fuse box now?
What does your fuse box look like? Are there separate fuse and relay boxes?


----------



## battlewagens87 (Oct 21, 2008)

engine harness for a 83 caddy to run a 16v?? what do i need


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: (battlewagens87)*

Scirocco 16v harness would probably be the best OEM fitment. Same with the downpipe and intake mani.


----------



## eurodub16v (Mar 11, 2009)

can anyone give me a DIY on the eurosport CIS airbox???????? It would be a big help


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*

???
People relaly need to stop posting individual questions in this thread. it's a "*Frequently* Asked Questions" thread. Not a "how do I do this, or this" thread.


----------



## eurodub16v (Mar 11, 2009)

ok ok calm down i just need a little help


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*

I know but you'll get more results with your own thread then posting it in here. THis is for general questions that everyone eneds the answer to








It replaces the bottom half of the airbox, btw.


----------



## Uturn (Jan 29, 2002)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (AntoineJo)*



AntoineJo said:


> A flywheel can safely be lightened to 8lbs.
> I ran a 7lb flywheel for about 10k miles, and kept having problems with springs coming loose from sprung clutch disks, and rivets sheering on solid spline clutches. My hypothesis is that because a lightened flywheel has less weight, it has less vibration dampening, and kept ruining my clutch disks from too much vibration. I have since went to a stock flywheel, and it's been working trouble free. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## bikerboyriley (Apr 18, 2009)

Could my engine not be running because of vaccuum leaks? Wont fire at all, even though i have spark, gas. My dipstick tube is broken and i have a vacuum hose that is not plugged


----------



## milkandcookies (Jul 15, 2008)

Well I just bought my first VW couple of days ago. It ran fine for a little bit then all of a sudden, funny idling and temperature going past the middle mark, and the tonight my headlights wouldn't turn on. The only way for me to have them on was to hold the "high beam" arm in position and drive it like that home.
I've ran seafom, fuel injector cleaner (Lucas) every fill up for the 4 times I have filled up so far. I changed the oil the other day and used Motor Honey. Now I'm thinking it may be the gas that I'm using?
All I've been putting in there for now has been 87. Should I switch it up or what?
And also do you guys prefer NGK or the Bosch as far as plugs and wires go?
Hopefully you guys can help me out here.
thanks in advance


----------



## ZachRabbit (May 19, 2009)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Ron P)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Ron P* »_16V head "spotters guide" - some shots comparing external features of 9A and PL 16V heads, to help you in junkyarding or if buying a loose head.
http://w3.one.net/~rapieper/16Vheadcompare/
HTH
Ron

a lot of the links and pictures you guys posted on here aren't working....
including this one.
can you find something like this again and email it to me Ron?
[email protected]


----------



## GTI John81 (Jun 9, 2009)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (ValveCoverGasket)*

ValveCoverGasket has a great point. I have an '87 GTI 16V in which the timing belt slipped and bent the intake valves. As well as changing your timing belt, make sure both your belt and tensioner are nice and tight too. Mine was only loose, and it cost me a lot of money.


----------



## chippievw (Dec 5, 2006)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (GTI John81)*

Just throwing these in here too for future reference, save hunting for them again.
The head cutaway album. 
VW 2 litre 16V cylinder head. (Engine code, 6A)
RED=Cut Faces.
YELLOW=Exhaust Ports.
GREEN=Intake Ports.
NAVY=Waterways.
ALLOY=Original Casting Open To Air.
(Ill get measurements and specs up tomorrow and put up a few notes, broadband off all day here today since morn and only got logged on now.
One thing to note this was a test head, the injector cut outs and valve guide bosses have been smoothed, 3 intake ports were polished, THERE WAS NO METAL GROUND FROM ORIGINAL PORT WALLS, just polished.
In the mean time ill let the pictures do the talking,
enjoy
B.G)


----------



## chippievw (Dec 5, 2006)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (chippievw)*

And these too while im at it








Done for the future reference of all engine gurus worldwide.
Should answer all questions in respect to how far out the 2.0l block can be taken to.
Here we go now, enjoy! 
Engine code 6A.
















































































































Green surfaces are VW factory faces, red surfaces are my own cut surface ground faces.
And the all important measurements>
Bore 82.50mm
Stroke 92.80mm
Average wall thickness of block through out(non high load areas)> 6.00mm.
Distance between bores taken with a high quality vernier callipers> 5.72mm.
Average main oil way gallery's diameter> 12.30mm.
Oil feed to head, average diameter> 5.60mm.
Distance from bore wall to root of oil squirter thread> 3.20mm. (''root measurement'' as in root of the thread of banjo bolt that holds squirter in place) 
Minimum bore thickness> 4.44mm, max 7.80mm. 
Average deck thickness, pretty uniform throughout>minimum measurement> 16.00mm
Bridge piece across water passage at number 1 and 4 cylinder> 10mm wide x 17mm high.
Block featured is a standard bore 2.0L 16v 6A external water pump forged crank type block(this one had?) with approx 150k miles.
I hope these pictures and specs help everyone who is thinking of or in the process of building a great engine.
I also hope these pictures will put peoples minds at ease with any doubts they may be having when it comes to boring these babies out or planing the deck, tapping oilways for remote supplies, dry sumping,etc.
Points to note are> 
The bridge across water passage which is not in the 1.8T block as seen in the 1.8T section.
The mould bridge stabiliser seen between the 2 cylinders, fitted at time of casting to aid stability to cores im sure.
Casting is solid between main bearing carrier and base of bore.
The general beefiness of the entire block compared to the AUG 1.8T.
I stand by all of the above measurements.


----------



## chippievw (Dec 5, 2006)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (chippievw)*

Just getting the maximum porting dimensions together now, im going to try and make as simple as possible to understand so people can compare/go off these measurements if someone wants to take their head to the max and is afraid theyll hit a water/oil way.
Im going to present the measurement diagrams in 3d if you like, and show you how to make a simple datum point frame that can be fitted to a standard port(s) to take these measurements off so you can mimic them perfectly, or should i say use them to see how far you can go.
Ill leave a safety margin on them to allow minimum port wall thickness of say 2.5mm(in spots) or so, i have to compare all the port wall thickness in a load of places first in order to get an average casting thickness, find the average and danger areas, and add a few mm for a safety zone.
I may even post 2 sets of dimensions, safe maximum dimensions for the experienced porter, and another set for the guys that like danger and want the MAXIMUM at all costs even if it means going near the borderlines. 
Ill present the port diagrams in MS paint (no laughing now!!).
When i have time im going to run all these ''possible maximum'' port dimensions on my engine simulator(optimum port shape of course) package and see just what this head is theoretically able to flow.
Should be interesting even if it is simulated.
Thanks for the reply's guys, all for a good cause.
I forgot to point out that some of the cuts above arent at 90 degrees to each other, some had to be cut at 85degress in order to take in all i wanted intto account and at the same time avoid the valve seats and other stuff as i dident want to risk damaging my 400mm tct alloy blade doing it ££££££££££££££££.
Just dropping this in here to save me making a folder, ill re-edit this reply and get rid of all the small talk above so it contains all the details and specs/sizes so feel free to reply in the mean time as you wont effect me as its going to all be contained here, itll all make sense when im done, going to take a few hours.
THE INTAKE PORT.








Cross-section view below, coloured lines corresponding to the coloured cross-sectional circular measuring planes in the diagram above.








Please note that both tracts of intake ports are done in the Cross Section list below.
I just showed you the location of the cross sections of the right port in the drawing above to save the sketch getting cluttered.
Although it is all the one intake port at the point of entrance im going to treat it as if it were two so read carefully below, its pretty simple to follow really.
The whole point of this table below is for anyone that wants to take their head to the maximum.
Once i show you how to make the datum jig you will be able to look at specs below and with an Inside Calipers know in one second if you can go more or not in that particular area.
Obviously the port would look pretty odd if you were to take it out to each of these angle measurements shown below, thats not the full purpose of this table, its an indicator as to HOW FAR you can go in each particular place in order to perfect your desired port shape.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE INTAKE PORT MAXIMUM MATERIAL REMOVAL REFERENCE MEASUREMENTS.
WHITE CROSS SECTION 1.
(Please note some angle measurements to port wall on the first few cross-sectional planes will be marked N/A as the port has not yet merged into two at this stage) 
Left Port. 
0' = 
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
Right Port.
0' = 
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
GREEN CROSS SECTION 2.
(Please note some angle measurements to port wall on the first few cross-sectional planes will be marked N/A as the port has not yet merged into two at this stage) 
Left Port. 
0' = 
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
Right Port.
0' = 
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PINK CROSS SECTION 3.
Left Port. 
0' = 
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
Right Port.
0' = 
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BLUE CROSS SECTION 4.
Left Port. 
0' = 
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
Right Port.
0' = 
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
LIGHT BROWN CROSS SECTION 5.
Left Port. 
0' = 
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
Right Port.
0' = 
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
LILAC CROSS SECTION 6.
Left Port. 
0' = 
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
Right Port.
0' = 
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
GREY CROSS SECTION 7.
Left Port. 
0' = 
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
Right Port.
0' = 
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------








THE EXHAUST PORT.








Cross-section view below, coloured lines corresponding to the coloured cross-sectional circular measuring planes in the diagram above.








Please note that both tracts of Exhaust port are done in the Cross Section list below.
I just showed you the location of the cross sections of the right port in the drawing above to save the sketch getting cluttered.
Although it is all the one Exhaust port at the point of entrance im going to treat it as if it were two so read carefully below, its pretty simple to follow really.
The whole point of this table below is for anyone that wants to take their head to the maximum.
Once i show you how to make the datum jig you will be able to look at specs below and with an Inside Callipers know in one second if you can go more or not in that particular area.
<FONT COLOR=""Red"">Obviously the port would look pretty odd if you were to take it out to each of these angle measurements shown below, thats not the full purpose of this table, its an indicator as to HOW FAR you can go in each particular place in order to perfect your desired port shape.
</FONT>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE EXHAUST PORT MAXIMUM MATERIAL REMOVAL REFERENCE MEASUREMENTS.
WHITE CROSS SECTION 1.
(Please note some angle measurements to port wall on the first few cross-sectional planes will be the same both left and right as the port has not yet merged into two tracts at this stage)
Left Port.
0' =
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
Right Port.
0' =
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
GREEN CROSS SECTION 2.
(Please note some angle measurements to port wall on the first few cross-sectional planes will be the same both left and right as the port has not yet merged into two tracts at this stage)
Left Port.
0' =
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
Right Port.
0' =
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PINK CROSS SECTION 3.
Left Port.
0' =
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
Right Port.
0' =
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BLUE CROSS SECTION 4.
Left Port.
0' =
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
Right Port.
0' =
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
LIGHT BROWN CROSS SECTION 5.
Left Port.
0' =
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
Right Port.
0' =
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
LILAC CROSS SECTION 6.
Left Port.
0' =
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
Right Port.
0' =
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
GREY CROSS SECTION 7.
Left Port.
0' =
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
Right Port.
0' =
45' =
90' =
135' =
180' =
225' =
270' =
315' =
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------












_Modified by chippievw at 5:16 AM 6-26-2009_


----------



## chippievw (Dec 5, 2006)

MAKING THE DATUM JIG AND USING IT TO TAKE REFERENCE MEASUREMENTS.
Ok now we have all our maximum safe removal measurements so I'm going to show you how you can check your Cylinder Head off these measurements with a very simple datum jig and an inside callipers.
Your going to need two intake valves, one valve guide, a 3mm bit, some 2.5mm strong wire, a hacksaw, a vernier callipers, and a few other small bits.
The valves below.








Measure 75mm from top of valve and mark it, either with a fine pen or some tape as I have done below.








Cut, probably best to use grinder as there quite hard, finish up to the tape with the grinding stone to bring to 75mm.








Next, cut the valve guide into two approx 12mm lengths.








Drill these with a 3mm bit, dot punch first.








Fit onto valve stems and make sure the centre of the 3mm hole is EXACTLY 48mm from the top of stem.








Superglue or as i did soldier them in place, again making sure nothing moved, top of stem to centre of 3mm hole 48mm.








Mark with paint so youll know which way holes are facing when viewed from below.








Right you can leave them aside for a minute or two, now onto the 2.5mm wire.
Youll need a few bits, lets start with the intake side, cut two pieces approx 95mm long.
Once you have them cut point one end of each on the grinding stone.








Measuring from the tip come 15mm at a time up along wire.
Mark positions with a pen, once your happy lightly track each mark all around the wire with a junior hacksaw or dremel.
Its very important not to bend the wire, it must be 100% straight. I used high chrome wire but im sure the core of a stainless high chrome welding rod would do fine.
The purpose of these tracks is to hold a tiny band of paint to match the colours in my port cross-section sketch above.
Maybe not that necessary but its easier to go off the colours instead of counting the grooves.








Heres what you should have when complete.








Wire should fit snugly into hole and not shake about.


----------



## chippievw (Dec 5, 2006)

Leave them aside for the minute.
Next up youll need a bit of material approx 100mm long(not important) approx 12mm wide, 3mm thick, it can be anything, steel, brass, possibly even a lolly pop stick.
Mark out as shown below.








With that same 3mm drill bit drill the two holes.








Mark the location positions and track each edge with a junior hacksaw, also mark mid point on ends and track them too as shown below.
















Turn piece over and counter-sink the 3mm holes with an 8mm bit, be VERY careful you dont go all the way through. 
You just want to leave say 1mm of the 3mm hole at the tip of countersink.








Intake jig all done, the stems can be used in the exhaust jig too so you'll only have to make one set to keep it simple.








Now onto the exhaust jig, follow the drawings, same as intake port really but with different dimensions.
























Back to the wire again, you'll need two pieces 60mm long and 65mm long, point tips as before and from the tip mark the 5 points with 11mm between them. 
Track around as before.








You should be left with this when finished, apply paint to grooves finishing in white at the straight end.








Thats the datum jigs made!!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SETTING UP THE JIG AND USING IT TO REFERENCE THE MEASUREMENTS LISTED ABOVE.
Right, first, give the intake face of head a good clean with water paper or a fly cutter in a milling machine.
Insert two studs into lower holes that are used to affix intake manifold, one stud either end of head.
(in my case head was cut so i used to holes near each other, you wont have that problem!)








From the side of this stud mark a line 28mm up, this is your datum line for setting the jig and also the mid-way position of port mouth.








Scribe a light line along head.








Like so.








Now the stems.








Insert into guide from the bottom up, MAKE SURE the red marks indicating when the hole is pointing straight out, parallel to each other.








Using a piece of 3mm stock(if you used 3mm for the position pieces this will work perfect)set the stems 3mm shallower than head face.
You could do this a number of ways I guess but this is the handiest I think using parts on hand.
Perhaps tape on a rebated block to head face to ensure they stay exactly 3mm back, I set them once and they dident move afterwards. You just need to make sure they are 100%, easy.








Insert wires into holes, remember its the long set of wires.








Place strip on top making sure you centralise it on all the saw cuts on its edges in relation to port width, and line the cuts in the ends on the scribe mark you just made.








If you have a scrap head now is the time to fill the countersinks around wire with soldier OR if its a good head and you fear a torch may warp it, use a two pack epoxy in there they dont take much holding really. 
Im going to soldier mine as ill be using this tool many times.
You can now see with the jig in place measurements can be taken in seconds with the inside callipers, and the great thing about it is for most porting work you can leave the stems in place and just pull strip and wires as a unit once soldiered giving you instant access to get the burr in there again for any fine tuning.
It is important though to make sure stems dont move out of reference when checking specs, they wont though as there's no work on them, but double check every time.
(exhaust jig assembly to follow, nearly done now)


----------



## chippievw (Dec 5, 2006)

SETTING UP THE EXHAUST JIG AND USING IT TO REFERENCE THE MEASUREMENTS LISTED ABOVE.
Insert two studs into lower holes that are used to affix exhaust manifold, one stud either end of head.
(in my case head was cut so i used to holes near each other, you wont have that problem!)
From the side of this stud mark a line 30mm up, this is your datum line for setting the jig and also the mid-way position of port mouth.
Please note the jig must be setup on port two, port one being at the belt end.

Scribe line at port centres as done on the intake side.








Insert the two stems into guides from the bottom up, MAKE SURE the red marks indicating when the hole is pointing straight out, parallel to each other.
This time you must set studs 12mm back from face of head.
You could do this a number of ways I guess but this is the handiest I think using parts on hand.
Perhaps tape on a rebated block to head face to ensure they stay exactly 12mm back, I set them once and they dident move afterwards. You just need to make sure they are 100%, easy.








Insert wires into holes, and place strip on top, remember its the longer wire thats goes on the right.








Soldier or glue, put a red mark on the left hand end of jig.








Place in vice and cut at approx angle as show taking into account where the red mark is in the picture, cut must be exactly on the centre of strip, cut down to to port width mark.








Cut out the little triangular piece, do this both ends, be careful and make sure you dont bend wires.
Should look like this when done.








The purpose of cutting ends out at an angle is because jig has to be inverted for measuring ports 3 + 4. 
Ports 1 + 2 are mirror images of 3+4 so to save making two jigs these cuts at ends make it possible for the jig to be used on all four.
If they weren't cut the strip wouldn't allow datum wires to enter port straight as the strip would be kicked on manifold face.
See below, the angle cut allows jig wires to enter at correct angle, same as before, just make sure you keep it on your port centre line.








An easy way of knowing if you have jig the correct way round is just check to see if red dot is pointing to centre of head and not towards the flywheel or belt ends.
Thats it Guys, your now ready to take your measurements and start checking where the material can be taken out of, Im going to spend the next while filling in the co-ordinates so you can use them for reference.
I still need to pick a safety margin, ill post safety margin too when I come up with one Im happy with.
The jig is real easy make, describing how to make it actually took longer. 
Remember, make it as accurate as you can, after all its pretty basic but the measurements must be adhered to.


----------



## ionutzy (Jun 17, 2009)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (chippievw)*

y need a electrical diagram igniton for kr golf 2 gti y have a problem in using dellorto 40 no spark problem with ecu and tci please hepl meeee


----------



## skates (Mar 30, 2007)

this is the best info iv ever seen on this whole site hahaha, thanks for taking the time to help out, im going to be doing some port work on my 9A head shortly. but i still have some questions, 
1: when you are done all the port work would it be wise to give the port a quick media blast so it is dimpled like a golf ball??? why i ask is the theory behind those dimples is that air moves over air better then air moves over the golf ball or in our case aluminum. 

2: a old drag races trick in north america is to paint the intake ports white to lower the amount of heat. is this bull or does it make sense???(i don,t think ill do this one)


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*

The color white in theory reflects heat, and black absorbs it... i don't know if this is true for visible light and IR only, or if it applies to all forms of heat though...
I wouldn't bother painting since it's just gonna get very dirty anyway.


----------



## Grabbit (Apr 27, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (VDub2625)*

Looking for some info on the euro CIS injection systems (non lamba), for instance, what years they came on, what type of ignition systems they ran, part numbers (VW and bosch) availability of replacement parts (UK maybe) what fuel pumps and pressure to run with them. 


_Modified by Grabbit at 1:14 PM 9-20-2009_


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*

As far as I know there was the PL, 9A (exact same as US cars, cat and all), and the KR, which was a CIS-basic (no FPR, had a Warm-Up Regulator), big port manifold, no cat, and agressive "Euro" cams as people call them, and made a hair under 140hp. 
There was also the ABF which was a Digifant-3 EFI engine, similar manifold and cams as the KR, but had a taller block (more stroke) rather then a bored out block (like the 9A) for it's bigger displacement (think of the 9A as a bored-out 1.8 8v with a 16v head, and the ABF as an ABA with a 16v head put on from the factory). 
Audi had a few 16vs too (6A, mayube 3A, and a few others) but I suspect they were similar to their VW counterparts just with a different mounting. 
Then there is the Audi V8, which we got here too, in 3.6l or 4.0l form, which is basically 2 16vs (1.8 or 2.0, of course) mated at the crankshaft


----------



## 16vkidd (Dec 15, 2009)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Ted)*

umm try 287,437 and im just getting to the rpms jumping and bad idling problem


----------



## bru-CTi (Sep 6, 2007)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (16vkidd)*

My input,ABF repair manual:
http://www.flapper111.pwp.blue...L.zip


----------



## JonnyPhenomenon (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (bru-CTi)*

thats awesome man, I just downloaded it and saved it to my stash.








here is my contribution, my own 16v leaky dizzy repair thread.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3536766
I originally posted it in the scirocco forums and I figured I would include it in the 16v faq.
I built a jig to hold the dizzy while I pressed out the pin so it wouldnt crush the dizzy. works really well
























if you find it helpful, consider searching for some of my other diy threads. just search for "phenoms howtos" in recent, and archives.


----------



## South_East_Vintage (Mar 21, 2004)

*Motronic 16v swap into 8v Mk2.*

Searched a bunch and couldn't find detailed info. Anyone done a full motronic 16v swap from a passat into a CE2 8v Mk2? Is it relatively plug & play?


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*

Yes. Search the Mk2 forums


----------



## motoxpaul05 (Feb 2, 2010)

can anyone help me with my 2.0 getting no spark from the coil?


----------



## ghettojetta20vT (Jul 3, 2005)

*Re: (motoxpaul05)*

is it possible to run a 16v engine on the mk3 2.0L 8v management? Im contiplation on swaping in a 16v into a mk3. 
Any info on this would help.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*

You'd need to set up some sort of crank trigger wheel.


----------



## Unit01 (Dec 26, 2008)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *zerogravityGTI* »_
the other end that goes from this 10pin plug is the engine harness and located driver side fire wall








1st off what do think this bay harness is off from (10pin plug)? 
the engine bay harness is already hooked/plugged in to the fusebox, ecm, ignition, knockbox, etc. The other end of the 10pin plug should go to all the o2, throttle switch, etc. pretty much that plugs in and wraps the engine (that i dont have) 



Looks like it's the one for the transmission? I have a US harness running my 16v that I swapped in and it has that.
Mine isn't connected because I have a engine and trans from a CE2. I'll look tomorrow to make sure.


_Modified by Unit01 at 11:55 PM 3-6-2010_


----------



## 90 sleeping GLI (Aug 26, 2009)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Ted)*

wow tht could be tru... my gli has over 600,000 miles on it.. and revs to 7000 to 7200 rpm like like mouse on cheese. and pulls like no tomorow


----------



## doubleclutchvr6 (Nov 1, 2008)

*Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (AntoineJo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AntoineJo* »_this is what removing the AC on a 2.0L 16v looks like. Notice the cut bracket, the alternator mounted where the A/C was, the 8v alternator pulley and the A/C belt used to drive the alternator.

















A/C delete is done wrong. the pulley that runs the water pump is a free wheeling pulley for the a/c. I know this because I made the same mistake.







i found the proper pulley on a spare water pump I had laying around. Not sure what it came off of. but it took one washer a bolt to space it right.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*

I haven't seen it but I have heard from people that some cars had a fixed pulley, not a freewheeler... but the proper pulley is better, saves sinning weight







The 8v pullies aren't spaced the same either.
Oh and you can remove the outer half of the crank pulley too. they're seperate


















_Modified by VDub2625 at 12:43 AM 4-3-2010_


----------



## cooldub (Mar 2, 2008)

VDub2625 said:


> I haven't seen it but I have heard from people that some cars had a fixed pulley, not a freewheeler... but the proper pulley is better, saves sinning weight
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Is using the waterpump pulley off a 8v a bad thing? I do see in the pic that it is alot closer to the crank but will this affect anything?


----------



## otakuphill (Aug 13, 2009)

*2.0 (9a) / 16v (1.8L) motor build questions.*

do i get a head gasket for a 1.8 or 2.0 motor? 

i heard you can use a 1.9 tdi gasket to lower the compression, what kind of car is it used in? (year, make)

does it just bult up to all the stuff on my 1.8 or do i have to replace stuff like mounts, tranny plate?

is the there a noticeable gain in torque that makes it worth the time?

is there a step by step to make sure i set it up and have the timing and compression right?

any help would be great.


----------



## Greengt1 (Aug 27, 2006)

cooldub said:


> Is using the waterpump pulley off a 8v a bad thing? I do see in the pic that it is alot closer to the crank but will this affect anything?


Not at all.... it doesnt move...


----------



## Dfray00 (Nov 17, 2009)

*1.8 16v vacuum lines*

I'm replacing all of the vacuum lines in my car. Where can I find them for sale at? New to VW and learning slowly with a bentley and lots of beer!


----------



## onlyrotary17 (Oct 27, 2009)

MKIIKenneth said:


> 3) alternater drivebelt and/or bearings screach when in a low gear, stops when the engine goes above 3000 RPMs. What is it, how can i fix it?
> I would appreciate the help, i have only dabbled in the home mechanic thing for a short time know.


I thought it was a pulley thing on mine.. I was surprised to find out it was just an old belt.


----------



## kuztumpainter (Sep 30, 2010)

*1.8 16v cis-eidle idle problems!*

hi guys and gals....i just bought an 89 gti 1.8 16v. The problem i'm having with it is at idle it goes to 1100 to 800 then 1100 rpm. when im on the road, at a stop lite the idles does the same when im ready to pull out it falls on its face (bogs,breaking up) then it clears up then its fine. iv check vac lines, disconnect reconect sensors. exhaust smells lil rich. has good spark,compression.has new cap, rotor, wires plugs....im clueless....please help me! im goin nuts:banghead:


----------



## usafjumper (Oct 15, 2005)

*Confused about 16v engine*

This is my first post on here, but I have been reading these threads for a while. I can't seem to find the rigt one to read. I THINK I have a 1.8l sitting in my mk1 golf, but it is set up mostly k-jetronic with the ECU of a mono jetronic system. The only sensors that are hooked up ar the high oil pressure and coolant temp for the in dash meter. 
My main question is can anyone walk me through the wiring up of the rest of the sensors? The car runs great in my opinion for a mk1 but does idle roughly and smells incredibly rich. I have pics of the setup if you guys need to see. Any help is much appreciated.


----------



## mr bug vw (Oct 13, 2009)

*bogging problems*

hey guys need some help well i got myself my first 91 gli jetta 16v 2.0 well when i got it the guy said it had some timing issue so he put a junk yard distributor and got it running so when you start the car it iddles rough and seem it wants to die if you dont pump gas second when you take off it runs smooth once you get too 4,000 rpm it cuts off and wants to die shift gear and normal hit 4,000rpm again it stalls wants to turn off then wait a couple seconds turn the car back on and revs it self t0 4,000rpm any help please i just want to drive my gli also i switched computer from anothr 16v 2.0 and still does the same i was told it could be knock sensor distributor or computer or tiiming help thaanks


----------



## TODRW (Nov 9, 2009)

*Question*

My 16v has low power until about 3k rpm. Any thoughts? I was thinking to adjust the cams a little. the distributor line was not perfectly(darn close) straight but the cam dimples were lined up and cut by the plain of the head. Thanks in advance 
:banghead:


----------



## kuztumpainter (Sep 30, 2010)

k guys my brain is mush!....any who...heres my deal i picked up a 95 aba 2.0.short block complete with 130,000 miles on. i own a 89 gti 1.8.16v. i'm planing on puttin on my 1.8. 16v head on the 2.0.people told "i can use ALL of my 1.8 v stuff off my block and trnsfer it to the 2.0. everything "suppose" to bolt rite up no worries. if thats the case awsome BUT i started read forums on here and forget it 2.0.this 2.0.that....thats why im so confused. so please guys simplfiy this as much as possible. im not a motor guy a body guy yes. im lookin for 200+hp just want some dependable. thank for your time and help.:banghead::banghead::banghead:


----------



## kuztumpainter (Sep 30, 2010)

k guys my brain is mush!....any who...heres my deal i picked up a 95 aba 2.0.short block complete with 130,000 miles on. i own a 89 gti 1.8.16v. i'm planing on puttin on my 1.8. 16v head on the 2.0.people told "i can use ALL of my 1.8 v stuff off my block and trnsfer it to the 2.0. everything "suppose" to bolt rite up no worries. if thats the case awsome BUT i started read forums on here and forget it 2.0.this 2.0.that....thats why im so confused. so please guys simplfiy this as much as possible. im not a motor guy a body guy yes. im lookin for 200+hp just want some dependable. thank for your time and help.


----------



## Turbo3 (Sep 15, 2005)

kuztumpainter said:


> k guys my brain is mush!....any who...heres my deal i picked up a 95 aba 2.0.short block complete with 130,000 miles on. i own a 89 gti 1.8.16v. i'm planing on puttin on my 1.8. 16v head on the 2.0.people told "i can use ALL of my 1.8 v stuff off my block and trnsfer it to the 2.0. everything "suppose" to bolt rite up no worries. if thats the case awsome BUT i started read forums on here and forget it 2.0.this 2.0.that....thats why im so confused. so please guys simplfiy this as much as possible. im not a motor guy a body guy yes. im lookin for 200+hp just want some dependable. thank for your time and help.


Your not gonna get 200+hp from just putting the head on. That combo will give you low compression for boost. Search and you'll find all the info you need on that combo.


----------



## kuztumpainter (Sep 30, 2010)

sry i screwed up im NOT lookin for 200+hp
:facepalm:


----------



## IFlyGTI (Feb 26, 2001)

DrewBuiltVW said:


> FIRING ORDER ON 16V: 1 - 3 - 4 - 2 COUNTERCLOCKWISE rotation
> 
> Unlike all the 8v motors, where the distributor turns clockwise, the 16v is opposite, counterclockwise.


D'oh. Hate it when that happens. :banghead:


----------



## kinnata (Nov 14, 2011)

I have never ever come across such a wonderful piece of information. Today I am proud to say that I have finally gain knowledge on this topic and here on I shall also spread the same preaching ahead so that the world become a better place to live in.


----------



## mk3FTW. (May 4, 2011)

will the 2.0 16v with a tdi headgasket raise the compression to 11:1 on an aba 2.0 block? and from what ive seen 2.0 16v should bolt directly up to the aba block with the exception of the intake mani and the oil cooler lines. 

please verify if this info is correct, id really appreciate it! :thumbup::beer:


----------



## jdubskiemk3 (Jan 27, 2011)

Ok so I keep gettin EGR codes in my mk3 golf that iv got a 16vt swap in anyone know what I should do seeing as I don't have a EGR system.


----------



## Glegor (Mar 31, 2008)

jdubskiemk3 said:


> Ok so I keep gettin EGR codes in my mk3 golf that iv got a 16vt swap in anyone know what I should do seeing as I don't have a EGR system.


get it coded out of your tune..

if theres no EGR equipment, then it will ALWAYS throw codes without the right non-egr tune..


----------



## cbs88gti (Aug 25, 2010)

*16v Rabbit intermittent fuel pump issue*

Has anyone else had any issue with fuel pumps not wanting to act right? I've checked the grounds to the pump and throughout the car, checked the relay, and checked the coil. I'm getting constant 12v to the relay and proper power to the pump. I am NOT getting spark, and the pressure from the pump is seemingly weak according to my mechanic which is leading me to beleive its in the relay panel or wiring somehwere. Any ideas?


----------



## 1SlyGTI (Jun 17, 2010)

cbs88gti said:


> Has anyone else had any issue with fuel pumps not wanting to act right? I've checked the grounds to the pump and throughout the car, checked the relay, and checked the coil. I'm getting constant 12v to the relay and proper power to the pump. I am NOT getting spark, and the pressure from the pump is seemingly weak according to my mechanic which is leading me to beleive its in the relay panel or wiring somehwere. Any ideas?


You know, this MAY or may not fix your problem, but... I recently had an issue where when I turned the key to on position I'd get no FP prime and despite having power to the coil, I was getting no spark. After replacing the Coil (now running Nology's coil and wires, absolute best coil and wires I've ever used) and the FP relay, I started digging.

Low and behold, it was in the LAST place I looked. Underneath the Raintray there's a control box next to the cabin filter. I took the connection to that off and found that two of the wires near the back were corroded (from moisture, normal wear and tear(?), and heavy vibration from stereo) and had finally lost connection. I clean them up, re-terminated them and plugged it back in and VOILA... she fired right up.

Strangest damn thing I've ever experienced and I've been driving 16v's since I was 15 (23 years now). Hope this helps, if not, PM me with more details and I'll help much as I can.:beer:


----------



## Glissaid (Apr 16, 2008)

*aba 16v timing/need help as to how to degree the block*

I have a full rebuild with after market flywheel.The problem is i do not have a tdc mark on the flywheel.I need to degree the block to be able to make a tdc mark on the flywheel and i don't trust the mark on the crank pulley because of the amount of play left and right in the pulley before the bolts are tight.Has anyone done this before?


----------



## Scirocco1415 (Feb 17, 2011)

*Help*

Can I put 2.0 16v motor passat b3 on scirocco mk2 85?
any modification on the Mounts engine?
I have mega squirt and the transmission I use the scirocco
Tell me
Thanks
some advice o suggestion?


----------



## 9aba16vt (Feb 28, 2011)

Use the Rocco mounts. And yes it will fit perfectly


----------



## MkBean (Jun 21, 2010)

*headlight wiring*

might be the wrong place to ask this but i have a 82 rabbit convertible that i swapped a 16 valve into out of a 87 rocco. im using the entire fuse box and wiring and i cant figure out how to wire my single round lights to work with the the quad headlight setup that the rocco harness has. if i run the headlights they will shut off and turn on every couple minutes and eventually drain my battery and the car will lose power. any thoughts?


----------



## MkBean (Jun 21, 2010)

*16v headlight wiring*

might be the wrong place to ask this but i have a 82 rabbit convertible that i swapped a 16 valve into out of a 87 rocco. im using the entire fuse box and wiring and i cant figure out how to wire my single round lights to work with the the quad headlight setup that the rocco harness has. if i run the headlights they will shut off and turn on every couple minutes and eventually drain my battery and the car will lose power. any thoughts?


----------



## LT1M21Stingray (Sep 14, 2006)

MkBean said:


> might be the wrong place to ask this but i have a 82 rabbit convertible that i swapped a 16 valve into out of a 87 rocco. im using the entire fuse box and wiring and i cant figure out how to wire my single round lights to work with the the quad headlight setup that the rocco harness has. if i run the headlights they will shut off and turn on every couple minutes and eventually drain my battery and the car will lose power. any thoughts?



You are right, wrong place to ask.

Please start a new thread there ==> http://forums.vwvortex.com/forumdisplay.php?152-Cabriolet

Good luck.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

*CIS-E replacement throttle switches*

So, VW has NLA'ed the throttle switch (idle / WOT) switch assembly (VW part# 027-133-061-B)
Fear not! McMaster-Carr has usable replacements! 
McMaster-Carr # 7658K13 is dimensionally damned close, has the correct lever, and has an _identical_ mounting hole pattern.
Product page: http://www.mcmaster.com/#7658k13/=riq5fk 
From catalog page: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/887/=m83fid 
Simply cut your old one off of the wiring and bracket, and bolt & splice the new part on (minor tweaking of the lever may be necessary.)


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## Jaystorey (Apr 25, 2013)

I have a 92 16v Motronic and lately I've noticed during the first 5 minutes of driving after a cold start, my throttle response from a stop has a delay in a way were if i tapped the pedal fast my car would rev but a split second late. And i just had a recent incident where the car actually died from the idle dropping below when coming down from the rev when simply pulling out of my driveway. After the car has been warmed up it seems the throttle response is fine with no delay. Any feedback would be great on this, Thanks


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Intake leaks would be the most-likely cause. Start there.

_Anything_ past that: 
_*Please*_ start a new thread. The FAQ threads are for aggregating shared information, not for troubleshooting.


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## Dubber111lucas (Jul 13, 2010)

sub'd


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## VR6 GLX Man (May 20, 2008)

Double post.


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## VR6 GLX Man (May 20, 2008)

What do you guys say about running at 1050 idle on an mk2 2.0 16v, I did advance my distributor timing a little, was aiming for just 1000rpm, well it's just a hair below 1000 when started from cold, but gets to 1050 after a drive. No noticeable detonation unless I'm not noticing it. It sure does move though.

Other that the above I was running at around 950 idle and was alright, but was doing some work under the hood an might of slightly retarded my timing so that's why I timed by ear to 1000, really thought I had 950, but it settles at 1050 after it's warm.


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## shawnsmit (Jan 8, 2014)

*2L 16v valve height*

hi guys can some one please help. I need the height from top of valve to top of head on inlet and exhaust valves please.


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## crispy_mk1 (Sep 20, 2011)

Good morning crew..

I have two issues with my 91 2.0l 16v. I bought the car built but since then I've replaced a lot of things on her.

Quick list within the last 6-8months

New motor mounts
New flywheel
New pressure plate
New clutch disk
New front strut bushings/bearing
Rebuilt head, because my tensioner seized and bent some valves:/
New plug wires and plugs dist cap, rotor button
New/used knock sensor
New 2 1/4" tt exhaust including cat, and oxygen sensor after the cat.(mind you the oxygen sensor on the downpipe is cut)

Ok so my problems are stalling and vibration. I know, it's at mk2 things are going to vibrate but this is different. Its sounds a feels like a metal band, and it only happens during acceleration at 2500-3000to4000rpm. Any ideas? Quickly I'm just going to add that I don't have a power steering pump, and haven't isolated the system yet. I was told it's ok but not the best. 

The second issue is when I first start the car for the day and go for a drive it runs rough and sounds like a misfire. When I disengage the clutch and come to a stop it'll either stall or just barely stay running. But it's not all the time. Only on occasions. Any ideas?

I'll gladly add anything you need to know to help with diagnosing.





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## crispy_mk1 (Sep 20, 2011)

crispy_mk1 said:


> Good morning crew..
> 
> I have two issues with my 91 2.0l 16v. I bought the car built but since then I've replaced a lot of things on her.
> 
> ...


I forgot a few things:

New battery and positive cables

Used mk3 starter

Another thing I wanted to add was last fall I was driving and some wiring was exposed near my starter and it started a little fire as I was driving. I only drove about a 1/4 of a mile like this but I think something else in that area could have been damaged


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## weejunGL (Feb 2, 2005)

cuppie said:


> *CIS-E replacement throttle switches*
> 
> So, VW has NLA'ed the throttle switch (idle / WOT) switch assembly (VW part# 027-133-061-B)
> Fear not! McMaster-Carr has usable replacements!
> ...




i do realize that there is a long time since you wrote this. but does these switches also have a digi-key part number? 

do you or anyone else know?

you can buy the OEM idle/wot switches from vwclassic at 60 euros... but that is too damn expensive


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

I looked, but didn't quite find them. 
Of course, that could be because it isn't always easy to find something weird at Digi-Key without a part number...  

I'm sure that they do. You'd just need to play with the online catalog for a while. 
Here's the product page at McMaster: 
http://www.mcmaster.com/#7658k13/=riq5fk


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## weejunGL (Feb 2, 2005)

oh, okay.

the reason for me asking is that i live in norway, andthat makes buying from these ppl a bit problematic :/


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## Dubber111lucas (Jul 13, 2010)

I'm going to be running dual Webber 42's on my 2.0 16v. I've done some research but never found anything solid. I was wondering what distributor to use. I've seen on the forums that people use 8v Saab distributors but still unsure and was wondering if there was any thing other than that?


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## Meanbean (Aug 15, 2010)

I used oem distributur and Euro spec KR ignition ecu.


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## Teddy Hayward (Dec 8, 2013)

Sorry to be a noob but I'm looking at turbocharging my 9a 16v i just picked up, whats my best ecu setup? I've heard that a chipped G60 edu will work. I'd rather not pay for standalone but will if needs be. Thanks!


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## 9aba16vt (Feb 28, 2011)

what year 9a? Raddo setup is the easiest to obtain


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## npj208 (Aug 24, 2014)

Q1wd

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## Eurogli16v (Oct 27, 2010)

ok so I had a 91 jetta gli with mechanical fuel inj. Then I got a 89 2 door jetta with digifant inj. Now I was going to use mega squirt to run the 16 valve in the 91 but I hear that using the digi will work also however is there a better way to run the digi without having to use the dam flappy air door meter to control it. I was hoping there was a way to use a mass air flow sensor or possibly a map controlled system? any thoughts or links would be greatly appreciated thanks.


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## KramersKarts (Apr 12, 2013)

Just go megasquirt and never look back, it's what I did. Best thing is that you can tune around any future mods. Say, like a turbo install (what I'm doing this summer). Or cams, injectors, etc..

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## Eurogli16v (Oct 27, 2010)

ok so if you don't mind me asking can I see some pictures of your engine bay and wherever you put your ecu. My 16v is already built it has autotech 268 cams undercut valves upgraded springs and retainers ported head je pistons arp head studs and I have a fuel rail and injectors already. I also have the throttle body off a Passat with tps on it.


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## KramersKarts (Apr 12, 2013)

My ecu is tucked up under the dash on the passenger side. This past summer I took my ms harness and merged it with the original 16v harness so that the connections ran through the stock rubber grommet to the fuse box. I still need to do a bit more tidying up of the wiring (coil on block vs firewall).


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## KramersKarts (Apr 12, 2013)

The black corrogated tubing contains the main harness. It looks messier than it is b/c of the various coolant and vacuum lines I need to tidy up.

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## Eurogli16v (Oct 27, 2010)

thanks for the pic looks great how does it run? how hard was it to program it to once you got it all wired in?


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## KramersKarts (Apr 12, 2013)

No problem, wiring was the most time consuming part, about a weekend's worth. It runs pretty good, I have a little cold weather start up issue, but that's more from not running a idle valve. Programming was easy, I found some fuel and ignition maps online from a similar build.

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## Eurogli16v (Oct 27, 2010)

sounds good when I get there I my hit you up for those maps and other tweaks thanks for your help again


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## KramersKarts (Apr 12, 2013)

No problem, happy to help a fellow 16v'er

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## robertTT225 (Apr 9, 2007)

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## DUBBED-OUT (Mar 21, 2008)

rockin16v said:


> ah yes, timing the 16v.
> timing belt and tensioner should be replaced every 60,000kms (as per VW), but it's your choice when / if you replace it. Why roll the dice?
> anyway, here are some picture of the timing marks on a 16v. the transaxle / Flywheel mark is accesable under a plastic green screw on cap (no pictures of it - sorry), but it is on the driver side - where the transaxle mates to the engine. It's on top. you can't miss it.
> The cam marks are on the inside (drivers side) of the pulley.
> ...


Any chance someone can update with new pics, Rockin16v hasn't been active since 2013

-Stephen


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