# 2.5t jsw



## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

Had the car checked out yesterday by FourSeasonTuning, mainly to make sure that the car is functioning within parameters of the UM tune. Some logs were taken and sent to Jeff for review, and came back all spot on and ready to roll. This officially concludes phase 1 of my build, so i'm just creating a thread documenting the progress and sharing some of the pieces that I've learn, and the parts (some alternatives from the mainstream) that i'm using.


So here's the start of the car, bone stock 2012 JSW 2.5 5mt, purchased with 39k miles on it




The first things that I did to it was to move some parts over from the mk6 Golf, because the Golf will be up for sale after the JSW is road ready.
GTI Front brakes

I also moved the Nav, headlights, foglights, rear sway bar, OEM Audi 17" with 235/45/17, and Steering wheel over, but don't have good pictures of them

In Jan 2016, I dropped the car off at JDL Auto Design in Phoenix for the turbo install. I tried to arrange to have the tune done within the same week, but couldn't make it happen. After some deliberation, we decided to install the turbo hardware minus fueling and tuning, and I'll gently drive the car home. Thanks to Ronnie and Jesse and the gang, I was on my way home at the end of the week, with the turbo hardware installed, but running on stock injector and stock tune.



Once I get home (safe and sound), I removed the ECU and shipped it over to UM for tuning. While that is being done, I worked on the fueling for the car. I found an ebay seller who sells the Bosch 550cc injectors for much cheaper than others, and can get you Nippon adapters too. His ebay listings are all for 4 or 6 cylinders, but he has his phone number at the bottom of the listing, so I texted him to see if he can sell me 5. He has absolutely no problem doing that, and within a week, I have the injectors in my hands(for half what it would cost everywhere else too).




Next up, i worked on the fuel pump to make sure it can keep up. I originally was pointed to the Deutsche Werks DW65v as an in-tank replacement sending unit. Upon research, i found an alternative. A company here in socal called HighFlowFuel makes a direct competitor of the DW65v. The model number is HFP-A35HV, and is claimed to flow better than the DW65v. I reached out to the company, and have a fuel sending unit in my hands within a few days. Upon initial inspection, the unit looks well built, is hefty and solid, so I have no concerns with putting it into the car. When it's time to remove my original fuel pump to do the upgrade, i hit a snag: I couldn't figure out how to take apart my stock pump, and it looks nothing like what people are posting online. Upon more research, I found out that the mk5 came with a "serviceable" pump, while the later cars came with the non-serviceable pumps. The good news is that it's interchangeable. Some forum members helped me out with the part number, and I bought a used pump off of ebay (since i'll be replacing the sending unit with the upgraded unit anyways)
my stock "non serviceable" pump, part number 1k0 919 051 *DA*




here's the serviceable pump, part number 1k0 919 051 *AP*


and here's a side by side comparison of the sending units, the stock one at the top, and the HighFlowFuel one at the bottom


Once the fueling is done, I waited patiently for the ECU to come back. The ECU took a while, a whole 7 weeks from the day I shipped it. It was painful to stare at my JSW on the drive way but couldn't drive it. Fortunately, I still have my UM stage 1 Golf to drive around, so it was bearable.

While waiting for for the ECU to come back, I did a quick "test fit" of the UM SRI to see how much the charge pipe would need to be modified to fit. There "appears" to be a good amount that needs to be changed. The pipe would be too close to the new location of the throttle body, so you can't even get away with elbows and such. I said "appears" to be, because once I remove the coupler to the throttle body, I noticed that the pipe actually have quite a bit of room to move. There's probably still not enough room to do a series of elbows, but fortunately, I found an offset reducing coupler. I haven't had a chance to try it, but I think it'd work. That will be phase 2 of the build, along with upping the boost with a manual boost controller.










Once I got the ECU back, I popped it in, and the car started up and idled without issues. However, I have several codes from the removal of the SAI system. After some email exchanges with [email protected] and Ronnie, along with research on the forum, I put in a resistor(330 ohms, 1/2 watt) where the engine wiring harness plugs into the Solenoid Valve (backside of the head), and this took care of code P0413. I also found a sensor on one of the SAI hoses that was removed, and plugged that into the harness next to the head(but just tucked away and dangling in the engine bay), above the transmission, and this took care of code P2432. Once those are done, the car have no codes, and runs fine. I finally had the chance to get the car over to [email protected] to datalog and look over. James sent the logs over to [email protected], and Jeff confirmed that everything looks spot on. I also asked James to test drive the car, just because he has much more experience with aftermarket turbo cars, and he commented that the car drives smooth, pulls hard once boosting, and overall performs pretty good. He was slightly surprised to hear that I'm still running the stock clutch, but later commented that I got lucky, because VW changed the clutch on the 2.5 somewhere in 2012 back to a single mass, which is basically a VR6 stock clutch setup, and it holds much better. I think the fact that I'm running a .82 AR (later spool) also helps things. The car doesn't make full boost(all 7.5 psi for now) until 3500 rpm, but once it's making full boost, it pulls pretty well. The .82 AR combined with the taller gears of the 2012 makes the car a bit laggy, so I'm contemplating a .63 housing. I have no budget for it right now, but am keeping an eye out for one, perhaps from someone with a blown turbo.

I have already purchased stock R suspension, which is supposed to firm up the car, without sacrificing ground clearance on a JSW. I'll probably install that over the summer. I'll probably turn up the boost after the suspension is in, and try to find out where the stock clutch's limit is. I am planning for a new clutch next year, perhaps an LSD at the same time. But for now, the car runs and drives well, and I'm happy with it.



BTW, the JSW also does this:




Peter


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## HollisJoy (Dec 26, 2011)

Bravo Sir :thumbup:


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## mjb8482 (Mar 4, 2008)

Very nice! I think that's the first 2.5T JSW I've seen on here! :beer::beer:


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## stef 4x4 (Jan 8, 2012)

I have always been thinking the tubo oil return should be down.


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## theroccoman (May 8, 2007)

Well i'm jealous. I have a gray JSW too and i've been reading and researching turbos for months now. I'll be joining you soon enough!


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

Congrats! looks well documented, well done, and properly/ thoroughly researched!

Your applause...!

I only have one question: Why upgrade fuel sending unit? What are the overall plans for the car? (or should i say, sportswagen?  )


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

I originally had a soft goal of 350hp at the crank(310-320 at the wheel) or 15 psi, whichever comes first, and when I talked to Scott Y, he informed me that the stock fuel pump is good for about 350. I figure, to be on the safe side and have 1 less thing to worry about, I'd just get it swapped out as a part of the built. 

However, [email protected] mentioned that I'm already at 70% fuel, so I may only be able to go up to 11-12 psi. I may fall short of the 350hp goal after all. 

How much boost pressure are you guys running on 550cc injectors? UM tune is more applicable, but info on any tune welcomed. Thanks.


Peter


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## TrillyPop (Jan 27, 2010)

gugu1981 said:


> I originally had a soft goal of 350hp at the crank(310-320 at the wheel) or 15 psi, whichever comes first, and when I talked to Scott Y, he informed me that the stock fuel pump is good for about 350. I figure, to be on the safe side and have 1 less thing to worry about, I'd just get it swapped out as a part of the built.
> 
> However, [email protected] mentioned that I'm already at 70% fuel, so I may only be able to go up to 11-12 psi. I may fall short of the 350hp goal after all.
> 
> ...


With 550cc injectors, I had no problems at 16-18psi on a precision 5558 turbo, which should equate to around 320-350whp. I had an inline walbro pump at the time to help supplement. That's as far as I went with 550s, not because they were limiting, but I jumped up to 1200cc injectors and whole new fuel system in preparation for the bigger turbo before I ever turned up boost on the 5558.


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

TrillyPop said:


> With 550cc injectors, I had no problems at 16-18psi on a precision 5558 turbo, which should equate to around 320-350whp. I had an inline walbro pump at the time to help supplement. That's as far as I went with 550s, not because they were limiting, but I jumped up to 1200cc injectors and whole new fuel system in preparation for the bigger turbo before I ever turned up boost on the 5558.


Thanks. Who did the tune? Since you have an 09, I assume that's MAP also? I've heard that the MAF cars are more flexible, so it's great news to see a MAP car doing 16-18 psi on 550's, and making great powet(I'd be thrilled to make 350 whp)


Anyone else with data to share?



Peter


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## stef 4x4 (Jan 8, 2012)

gugu1981 said:


> Thanks. Who did the tune? Since you have an 09, I assume that's MAP also? I've heard that the MAF cars are more flexible, so it's great news to see a MAP car doing 16-18 psi on 550's, and making great powet(I'd be thrilled to make 350 whp)
> 
> 
> Anyone else with data to share?
> ...


405 crank hp at 6700/min., 367 on the wheels, max. torque 490 Nm at 4200-5000.min, max. boost 15 psi, Bosch 550 injectors, engine BGQ, tune JD engineering Netherlands.


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

stef 4x4 said:


> 405 crank hp at 6700/min., 367 on the wheels, max. torque 490 Nm at 4200-5000.min, max. boost 15 psi, Bosch 550 injectors, engine BGQ, tune JD engineering Netherlands.


Great numbers! BGQ would mean it's a MAF car, right?


Peter


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## TrillyPop (Jan 27, 2010)

gugu1981 said:


> Thanks. Who did the tune? Since you have an 09, I assume that's MAP also? I've heard that the MAF cars are more flexible, so it's great news to see a MAP car doing 16-18 psi on 550's, and making great powet(I'd be thrilled to make 350 whp)
> 
> 
> Anyone else with data to share?
> ...



UM tune. MAP car. Don't have any dyno numbers from that stage unfortunately.


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

TrillyPop said:


> UM tune. MAP car. Don't have any dyno numbers from that stage unfortunately.


that's reassuring. guess we'll see what happens when I turn up the boost on mine. Thanks!


Peter


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## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

stef 4x4 said:


> I have always been thinking the tubo oil return should be down.


It is... the picture you see shown is the feed line. The PTE center sections are set up so you can thread in adapter (as shown) or you can bolt on a flanged adapter with a gasket.

Great looking build! :wave:


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

Some more bits of what has been done to the car

P3cars vidi with track pack so i can see the AFR(among other things), rline steering wheel, and 8" navigation









Cut off from the projector HID










Peter


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## stef 4x4 (Jan 8, 2012)

gugu1981 said:


> Great numbers! BGQ would mean it's a MAF car, right?
> 
> 
> Peter


The mm. system is a 2007 BGQ one.

Stef.


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## stef 4x4 (Jan 8, 2012)

leebro61 said:


> It is... the picture you see shown is the feed line. The PTE center sections are set up so you can thread in adapter (as shown) or you can bolt on a flanged adapter with a gasket.
> 
> Great looking build! :wave:


Thanks! I never have seen a turbo with a flange on the oil intake side, used at Borg-Warner stuff, that's why I thought the return was on top.


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## stef 4x4 (Jan 8, 2012)

stef 4x4 said:


> I have always been thinking the tubo oil return should be down.


I hav to apologize: the first thing I should have noticed should have been great project!
Sorry for that.


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## kevin splits (Aug 23, 2010)

:beer:


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

Thanks guys,

I actually think it's a fairly modest build. Mainly looking to satisfy my thirst for more power, without attracting TOO much attention. I think the 3" exhaust gives it away a bit though... speaking of that, I should probably share the system that I used, in case anyone else searches the forum for a JSW specific exhaust for a turbo build.

http://www.fixmyvw.com/mk5-mk6-jetta-catback-by-buzzken/

Within the page, you can select different options for engine, body style (JSW included), size of the piping, whether you want a muffler or not, etc. I went with 3" piping, mating to 3" downpipe, with a muffler. It came out to be $565 shipped to SoCal. The finish of the system itself looks good. But since the whole system from the engine back got changed, much of it was mocking up and welding on the spot, so I can't speak much to fitting the system to a stock downpipe (non turbo car).

I had JDL add a cat to it as a part of the install. Right now, I'm considering having a resonator added to reduce cabin drone around 2500rpm. I don't find it too bad, but wife complained about it while we were towing @60 mph. I had to downshift to 3rd, to keep the RPM above 3k.





Peter


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## [email protected] (Aug 18, 2011)

Rad project. Very cool. :thumbup:


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## TrillyPop (Jan 27, 2010)

gugu1981 said:


> Thanks guys,
> 
> I actually think it's a fairly modest build. Mainly looking to satisfy my thirst for more power, without attracting TOO much attention. I think the 3" exhaust gives it away a bit though... speaking of that, I should probably share the system that I used, in case anyone else searches the forum for a JSW specific exhaust for a turbo build.
> 
> ...


I have a 3" turbo back, no cat, resonator, and single borla muffler, and the exhaust noise is minimal enough to have a conversation in normal voices at highway speed. I have had it with a high flow cat, and I think the resonator is essential for decreasing raspiness and drone...more so than whether you have 1 or 2 mufflers or a cat.


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

TrillyPop said:


> I have a 3" turbo back, no cat, resonator, and single borla muffler, and the exhaust noise is minimal enough to have a conversation in normal voices at highway speed. I have had it with a high flow cat, and I think the resonator is essential for decreasing raspiness and drone...more so than whether you have 1 or 2 mufflers or a cat.


Thanks.

Was hoping the muffler would've been enough to keep it tame. The Cat is added mainly as a faint hope of being emission compliant (sniffer). However, smelling the car right now, there's little to no chance that it'll pass sniffer. Oh well. Being in CA, just passing the sniffer isn't enough anyways, it was just an attempt to make myself feel warm and fuzzy inside.



I got the boost controller yesterday, so may get it hooked up (but passing no pressure into the wastegate) and ready to go in the next few days.


Peter


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

bought a Blox Racing Manual Boost Controller, and have turned up the boost slowly. Blox Racing MBC appears to be a Hallman Pro clone, and is pretty simple and solid. I got it up to 12.6 psi (according to the 'peak recall' function on my P3Cars VIDI with analog boost sensor that's calibrated to the elevation) last night. [email protected] actually made an update to my tune that's aimed at improving partial throttle smoothness. I will try to find time this week to swing by FourSeasonTuning this week to get it loaded, and also have [email protected] do some more data logging and look at injector duty, so we can figure out whether I can turn up the boost further.




















Pete


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

Had a p0301 misfire code recently. Double checked the gaps on the bkr7e over the weekend (didn't check it when I put it in), and found out that they are actually 0.035", when they are supposed to be pre-gapped to 0.032". I gapped them down to 0.028" per forum recommendations, will see if the misfire code stays away.


While I was working on the car, I also checked the catchcan because I had to move it out of the way in order to get the plugs out. There was about 1/2" of oil collected now. Unfortunately, I don't have a good before/after turbo comparison, since I bought this car used only 6 months ago(5k miles ago, 2k of which is turboed). The catchcan was on the 2010 Golf for 30k miles, and didn't collect any fluids. The can and mesh is covered in oil vapor/mist, but no liquid collected. In comparison, the JSW, especially turboed, definitely needs the catchcan to stay clean. I will have to check the charge piping when I put the SRI back in to see if any vapor made it pass the can and onto the charge piping.


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## halbwissen (Jul 20, 2001)

Nice project! It's refreshing to find an active build thread here in the 2.5l forum. :thumbup:


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

Just took off the intake pipe by the turbo to check (about 8 inches after the post catch-can return bung), and the inside is basically dry. When I ran my finger across the inside of the intake tube, there's an EVER SO SLIGHT hint of vapor on the finger after. It's so slight that I'm not even sure if it's from the intake pipe, or just perspiration on my hand. In any case, I'm going to say the home-made catch can is working VERY WELL. One less thing to worry about.


Peter


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## Bora Jon (May 31, 2007)

hi peter, are you running stock internals or have you done anything else to the engine? the JDL is a beautiful kit, glad to hear you are so happy with it.


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

Bora Jon said:


> hi peter, are you running stock internals or have you done anything else to the engine? the JDL is a beautiful kit, glad to hear you are so happy with it.


Hi, still running stock internals, and probably won't be upgrading that. If I come across a large amount of money, I may look into picking up a spare motor and build that. But that's highly unlikely. (more likely to pick up a q5 3.0t and tinker with that instead, 425hp with just a chip, yes please)



Peter


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

took a video of the 2.5t in 3rd the other day. About 50mph to 110mph.






Also found an old video of the Golf 2.5 SRI with UM tune. Also 3rd gear, but started around 40mph, to about 105mph (shorter gears)






Just looking at them, it's hard to tell much difference. But I pulled both videos up, and played them simultaneously(after syncing them to both 50mph as a starting point), you can see the JSW (despite being heavier and taller gearing), is doing 95mph when the Golf hits 80. Yes, faster... but NEED MOAR POWAH!



Peter


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## karlsvw (Oct 25, 2014)

Just curious how you find this power with FWD? Is it a burnout queen now and pulls to one side at speed?


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

karlsvw said:


> Just curious how you find this power with FWD? Is it a burnout queen now and pulls to one side at speed?


i'm running 235/45/17 tires all around, and 5858 .82AR (full boost at 3500rpm, but only about 8psi for now). I have never launched the car, because that's just asking for trouble. I usually do no more than half throttle off the line, until the clutch is fully engaged, then roll on the throttle. Like that, the wheels do not spin, and it just pulls. If i shift into second and just pop the clutch, it'll spin a tiny bit into second, then pulls. There is a bit of torque steering, but not bad.

This is of course all on smooth roads. When the road surface is full of holes, then the car will hop and spin and torque steer all over.


Peter


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## karlsvw (Oct 25, 2014)

Yeah, driving technique helps.

On a side note, I really want to turbo my car but am afraid of breaking something and ruin the warranty. I love 5 cylinders to death and am starting to look for a mid 80s Audi Quatro GT to futz with. They're out there but rare.


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

some updates:

first oil change since going turbo, roughly 4500 miles. About 5.5 qts of oil came out. There are no visible shavings/moisture/other reason for concern. The oil is slightly thinner than I'm used to seeing, but I wonder if it's because of the oil that was put in. In any case, 6 qts of Mobil1 0w-40 went in, alone with a new filter. We'll see what comes out at the next oil change.


At the first inspection about 2000 miles after the turbo install (so 2500 miles ago), we noticed a coolant drip, at the heater core connector. We re-seated that connector and cleaned the area. We also noticed a slight drip at the oil feed line fitting next to the block. That was dripping onto the subframe at a pretty slow rate, but wasn't enough to drip onto the ground. We tightened the connection around there.

While under the car this time, I checked everything out, including the 2 above mentioned item. The coolant drip seems to have been completely fixed. The oil feed line fitting is now reduced to a seep. There was enough to form a film, but no droplets, and certainly nothing dripped. I am okay with that. I have also noticed that the oil return line fitting on the pan is covered with a tad bit of grime, so there's also very slight seeping there. But it's so slight(4500 miles, we didn't notice/clean this area at the earlier inspection) that no droplets were formed, and again, nothing noticed on the ground. I may try to tighten this next time around. I didn't feel like messing with it because I was slightly pressed for time.

I also put in a magnetic drain plug, so at the next oil change, I should be able to see if any metal shavings are floating around in the oil.

I haven't had a chance to drive the car since the oil change, but have noticed that the turbo is much quieter upon startup. Before the oil change, I could hear the turbo spin (for about a second or so) when the engine is started. After the oil change, the sound is gone. I will have to pay closer attention to how the car behaves on the road to make sure nothing is wrong. I have no other reason to believe that something is wrong. But since this experience is new to me, I'm just treading lightly.


That's it for now. Summer's around the corner, looking forward to upgrading the suspension, the mounts, and turning up the boost. (now reconsidering whether I want to put in the UM SRI or not. Will see what the car feels like around 15 psi without the SRI and see)


Peter


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

More updates after the car sat overnight. I can hear the turbo on start up again. I guess it wasn't there immediately after the oil change was due to oil already in the turbo. But after it settles for a period, it's more pronounced again on a cold start. In any case, car is back to behaving how It did before the oil change(which is a good thing) and drives normal too.


Peter


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## Pure.Dope (Mar 26, 2009)

I suppose since I'm slappin a turbo to my 2.5l soon, I should start posting. I appreciate all the info thus far. Between you, UM, other posters, and some local folks, I have a solid plan built. Moving to an 8.5:1 compression w/ IE hardware (pistons & rods). Using my stock 5 speed, adding a wavetrac and fourseasons upraded vr6 clutch kit w/ clutchnet plate. Hoping to get close to 500hp out of the 5858. Just waiting to schedule install and the UM tune to be finished.


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

Pure.Dope said:


> I suppose since I'm slappin a turbo to my 2.5l soon, I should start posting. I appreciate all the info thus far. Between you, UM, other posters, and some local folks, I have a solid plan built. Moving to an 8.5:1 compression w/ IE hardware (pistons & rods). Using my stock 5 speed, adding a wavetrac and fourseasons upraded vr6 clutch kit w/ clutchnet plate. Hoping to get close to 500hp out of the 5858. Just waiting to schedule install and the UM tune to be finished.


500hp wagon, that'll surely surprise some people. Can't wait to see the car finished!


Peter


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## Pure.Dope (Mar 26, 2009)

Trying to keep the noise down as well, so going w/ a recirc wg dump, cat, resonator, & muffler. I'm sure that's gonna cost me some hp but trade offs.


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

Got my hands on some mounts!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/32196280595...1270561af1c&bu=43166306759&cp=1&sojTags=bu=bu











I talked to the seller, they are apparently the manufacturer for the v1 BSH mounts(thinner steel arm, as opposed to the thicker aluminum arm on the v2), and they are trying to clean out inventory. I did some research, and don't see any horror stories with the v1 mount (although I do wonder why they went to the thicker aluminum arm.....). Oh well, we'll find out how well these works.

Will be installing the motor mount and BFI transmission mount insert after I get home from my trip next week. So excited, can't wait!!



Peter


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## halbwissen (Jul 20, 2001)

Very cool project! 
Did you ever install those mounts? How do they feel?


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

I got rather lazy over summer, and didn't finish everything I wanted. In fact, I did half of several of my intended projects...

I got the *front* Golf R suspension installed, and it's definitely firmer but retains the stock height. I didn't have enough room to drop the rear lower control arm because I'm doing this on jacks and ramps., so looking to borrow someone's lift or perhaps just pay someone to do the rear. 

As the car sits right now (OEM R front, and OEM JSW rear), it's level, and a good bit firmer in the front. It's very obvious when you run over bumps on the road, but in a good way. I want to get the rear changed out, but am just overwhelmed with work and family, and don't have time.



I got the engine mount installed, and it's a bit of a struggle to get it installed. The bolt holes are the perfect size, but the position of the holes mounting to the block is off ever so slightly (maybe 1/64" or so). Because of that, it's very tough to get the holes lined up. On my initial install, i put one bolt in half way, then tried to put in the other bolt, and end up striping the first few turns. I backed the second bolt out, back the first bolt out to about 1/5, then pushed and pulled on the mount so I can start the second bolt correctly. I ended up having the mount at an angle so I can start the second bolt, then threaded the bolt in (so the arm on the mount is bowing EVER SO SLIGHTLY, or perhaps the thread on the bolt cut into the arm to give it the proper distance, but the mount is on snug). In any case, this mount is too prone to screwing things up, and I would NOT recommend it to the faint of heart. And I wonder if that's why the arm (which mounts to the block) was changed out in later revisions.

Having shared my installation woes, I must say that the mount makes the car behave even better. The engine movement is much better controlled between on/off throttle, and shifting is much more predictable. The car now has CTS Turbo subframe collar, 034 puck subframe mount, the BSH V1/Torque Solution mount, and stock transmission mount. When I installed the subframe mount, the shifting was improved, but at the same time the vibration got much more pronounced. When I installed the engine mount, the only change is the further improved engine movement control, with no additional vibration. I still plan to install the transmission mount insert eventually, but need to find time.



Peter


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## machinetp (Sep 18, 2016)

Thanks for the info on that mount gugu1981. I was looking at that very one since the price is half of what the updated version is. Plan on changing just the passenger side mount and all the other mounts with oem. Trying to keep the vibrations down to a minimum.


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## 2003VWTDI (Mar 3, 2013)

I tried messaging you back but it says your inbox is full.


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

put in a 2001-2003 Audi a3 s-line 5 speed knob yesterday(part number 8L0863278BNRMD). Genuine Audi, perforated leather, with leather boot, and very cheap (I got it for $50 shipped, and I see ebay listings for $40 shipped right now). I am being very specific about what car this came from, because a 5 speed knob with the reverse in the top left isn't common, especially a genuine VAG perforated leather one. And even rarer is one where you can still find new.

The inner stem/hole size is identical between the cars (likely the same for most of the VAG cars), so it's a perfect match and OEM install without any hacking. You just need to pull up the oem base, loosen the ear clamp, pull off the oem knob, slip on the a3 knob, squeeze the new ear clamp to hold it, and then install the base. (in case anyone's wondering what an ear clamp is, it's this thing https://img0.fastenal.com/productimages/0427970_hr1c.jpg. I had to look up the name on google, so I imagine others will wonder what that is as well)

The only thing is that the base is a different shape , so you will have to remove the a3 base, and put it onto a mk5/mk6 base. You will have to pull the leather over the inner "ring", which takes a little bit of effort, but it's held on tight without any glue at the moment. I bought a dirt cheap ebay shift knob/boot/base combo for $9, and took it apart just to use the base and inner "ring". The quality of the ebay base is terrible, but it's in for now. If the leather pulls out of the base in the future, I will possibly look for a used oem base to re-do this (not planning to take apart my oem knob/boot/base, so I have something to go back to if needed).

The overall result is about 1/4" taller, which is really negligible, but feels much better. Once the leather "breaks-in" and softens, I'm sure it'll feel even better.

And here are the mandatory pictures






Peter


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## eatrach (May 13, 2004)

That's a nice build Pete. I thought of adding a turbo on my MKV Jetta, but had to get a Golf SW for the wife. For now, I'll just enjoy it until it dies.


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

eatrach said:


> That's a nice build Pete. I thought of adding a turbo on my MKV Jetta, but had to get a Golf SW for the wife. For now, I'll just enjoy it until it dies.


looking at your sig, it looks like you have another fun car to enjoy. Otherwise, a turbo wagon is both fun AND practical. Highly recommended(this is starting to sound like an ebay feedback).



Peter


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

The car has been boosting higher and higher lately, and I thought it was just due to the colder weather (denser air). It hit 16.8 psi tonight, and the clutch started to slip(clutch held fine at around 14 psi a week or two ago). The good news is that AFR stayed around 11.8, so the fuel pump and injectors are doing fine.

I popped the hood after, because the ever-increasing boost is not right, and noticed the catchcan hose touching the boost controller knob. The vibration from the engine must be slowly turning that knob, causing boost to be higher and higher. I completely closed the boost controller (i think, will have to double check tomorrow morning, by slowly pushing the throttle and slowly increase the boost, to see if wastegate will open around 8psi), and will have to re-examine where i mount the boost controller, and/or possibly changing to one that has a lock screw after adjustments are finalized.

Have to say, the car feels AWESOME boosting 12-14psi.



Peter


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

old MBC removed, new cheapo ebay MBC in(but closed for now). I may spend some time to put it at a better spot later. But for now, it's right on top of the valve cover so I can adjust it easily. This MBC have tactile feedback with the knob, and also have a set screw to be used when I have it adjusted to the right level.











Peter


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

made a sub box to go underneath the spare, and a new false floor out of 1/2" plywood to replace the factory one (1.25" thick). Box have roughly 0.65 cu ft of volume. With some polyfil, I think it'll do nicely for the JBL GT5-10 sub (spec calls for 0.75 cu ft volume) that I picked out.

Yes, box looks like ****, it's my first time using a router, with a home-made circle jig, and I don't feel like sanding it just to have it look pretty where nobody will ever see it. But it's very solid and functional, that's all that matters to me. The wall of the rings is all roughly 1" thick, and I aligned it based on the inside when gluing it together. So the outside may have up to 1/4" offset between each ring, but there's still plenty of overlap to be sure it's air-tight, and is not at risk of breaking apart.













and with the CarGo mat, I don't have to worry about painting or wrapping the plywood false floor.


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

oh, and on the drivetrain front, I have the original boost gauge repositioned (the other one I got was complete crap), and it will hold the setting now. I have it adjusted to roughly 12 psi. But the clutch is now slipping at 12 psi. I am taking it easy until summer, and will get a new clutch and likely a diff. 

And as you can probably see, I am now tinkering with the car in other aspects (audio). I also have some bass blocker en route(200 hz @ 4 ohms), so I can take the lower frequencies out of the factory speakers, now that I have a sub. Doing the audio thing on the cheap, I'm not THAT picky about it.


Peter


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