# Mk4 Celis repair DIY



## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

Update: 1/8/2009 The headlight repair still works great. 2 1/2 years, and about 40k more miles and no problems.









Here is a .pdf link
Before we get started, so as not to offend anyone or any organization, this DIY is intended to show an alternative method to repair any inoperable Hella Celis "angle eye" LED system found in the recently produced head lights for the MK IV Golf Series. No opinions or declarations are being made as to the quality of the product itself.
This is simply a method of repair that does not involve returning the lights to the manufacturer.
A few words of advice:
1. This will take some knowledge and/or skill involving simple electrical wiring.
2. Work in a convenient area on a soft surface so as not to scratch or break the lights.
3. Plan enough time to do this carefully. Work slowly and neatly. Read the whole DIY first. They really are nice lights once they work.
4. All directions listed are open to improvement and/or modification. This is just how I did mine. Please post.
5. Take picture with a digital camera as you go along so you don't have to remember exactly what it used to look like.
Overview of Issues:
The most likely cause of Celis ring failure is a failed voltage regulator. This device takes the 12 volts the car produces and lowers the voltage, but also regulates the current flow to the LEDs. This is what failed in my case(proven by 0 volts leaving the regulator).
The second issue could be damaged or failed LEDs. Each ring has 1 "LumiLeds Luxeon 1 Emmitter" LED mounted to an integral circuit board and heat sink held in with 2 torx screws.








The most likely cause of the problems listed in the previous thread is a failed voltage regulator. That is where repairs should start since a good voltage regulator(VR) will not damage bad LEDs, but a bad VR could damage new LEDs.
There seems to be 2 styles of VRs.The old original style is a small epoxy coated circuit board.








The new style, like I had, is a long green rubber piece with wires coming from both ends. Since they both do the same thing, replacement is the same.









What you will need:
2 voltage regulators made by I2systems.com model VSD-0350S
$34.50 each from futureelectronics.com








2 wiring assemblies form I2systems.com model VCA-87
1 heat sink set form radio shack part# 28-1005 $9.99
2 .250 inch male spade crimp connectors radio shack 64-4040 for 5
2 .187 inch male spade crimp connectors radio shack 64-3132 for 5
If Needed:








Luxeon LED part# LXHL-BW02 $2.99 each from futureelectronics.com
Heat conductive paste from radio shack
Tools and Supplies:
Soldering iron, solder, heatshrink tubing or electrical tape, 1/8" drill bit and drill,1/8" screw+nut or 1/8" pop rivets and pop rivet gun and hacksaw.
Now the fun part!
1. Remove the front bumper cover.
2. Remove the headlights.
3. Open and take off the covers on the back of the headlights. Remove the leveling motors if you have them by turning 1/3 and tilting them so as to separate the ball and socket of the leveling mechanism.
4. Place the headlight down on something soft so that the bottom of the light is facing you.








5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, drill out the 2 rivets that hold in the VR. Drill slowly as the rivets are soft aluminum and cut quickly. Work slowly to keep any shavings out of the lights.
6. Lift up the VR and bracket and carefully unhook the wiring to it. One side goes to the 10 pin connector and the other side goes to the LEDs.
7. Now it is time to make the wiring harness for the new VR. Only 4 pins on the new VR will be used.








I did not use the manufacturer's wiring connector since I had some at work that fit, so the pictures are not of that connector, but it should be similar.








Starting at the 2 separate pins;
GND to a .250 inch male spade connector
Vin to a .187 inch male spade connector
then the last 2 pin will be used
GND to the brown wire from the LED connector from the old VR
Vout to the black wire from the LED connector from the old VR
These wires should all be about 4 to 5 inches long. Soldering the harness together and using heat shrink tubing will be the most reliable method.
8. Heat sink issues.
The side of the VR opposite the pins is covered with thermal transfer tape. This can be peeled of and stuck to the base of the inside of the headlight or a heat sink can be placed on the tape and then the heat sink can be mounted to the headlight. The VR documentation recommends using a heat sink when the VR is used at its capacity and the temperature exceeds 50 degrees C. The VR in this setup is running at 2/3 capacity and after bench testing for 5 hours, they were still cool to the touch. That said, other bulbs around the VR will be producing heat as well as the ambient heat from the engine, so that is why I recommend using a heat sink. The radio shack heat sink is part of a set for keeping computer memory cool. The set comes with 2 heat sinks.
The finned heat sink is longer than the VR. Trim the heat sink to the length of the VR with a hack saw or dremel tool(it cuts easily).








Place the heat sink on its side next to the VR so that the thermal tape side faces the base of the heat sink, with the pins of the VR by the bottom. See Pic below.








Peel off the covering of the tape and press the heat sink so that a single bottom surface is created. (The adhesive is very strong and should stay attached permanently)
9. Place the wiring harness on the VR.
10. Place the VR/Heat sink/wiring harness assembly in to position to the side of the leveling motor bracket under the low beam reflector. Test fit where it will sit. It should sit so that the old rivet hole will line up with the fins of the heat sink. Make sure it is toward the the back so that it will not interfere with the leveling mechanism and associated movement. If you had the old style VR, you may have to try a different place to mount it, or drill a hole in the bottom of the light in this position.








11. Connect the wires to the headlight running them behind the leveling motor bracket and clear of the leveling mechanism.








12. Push a rivet or screw through one of the holes in the bottom of the light between the fins of the heat sink and secure it in place. Put a second rivet or screw in the other hole to seal it.








13. Reinstall the leveling motor making sure the ball is in the socket. Be sure the wiring is not touching the reflectors of the low beam or fog light.
Passenger side:








14. Connect the light to the 10 pin vehicle connector and test the lights. Hopefully that is all you need to do.
If there is still a problem, no light or dim lights, the LEDs need to be replaced. This requires soldering skill.
The high beam LED is easily removed by removing the 2 silver torx screws in the aluminum heat sink below the high beam reflector. The LED and heat sink are the pulled out the back of the light and the wires can be disconnected from the LED unit.
The low beam LED is more of a challenge.
The low beam reflector must be loosened by removing the three gold colored torx screws in the brown reflector located to each side and to the top. These are not the three easy to get to screws next to the bulb socket. They can be reached with a long torx driver held at an angle through the back of the light. (No oven time is required!)
Shift the reflector up to expose the LED heat sink and remove the 2 silver torx screws and pull the LED assembly out the back and disconnect the wire connector.
To remove the old LED, first note the orientation of the LED. One side has a small hole in the extended leg lead. Look closely at the picture.








With a small screwdriver apply upward pressure on each leg as it is heated with a soldering iron to separate it from the circuit board. Pry off the LED from the circuit board with a small screwdriver. The metal base of the LED will probably remain as it is glued to the board. This can be remove with a screwdriver using lateral force.
Put some thermal paste in the spot where the old LED was. (Just a little)
Put the new LED in place making sure the orientation and placement are the same as before.
Using the soldering iron as quickly as possible, solder both legs to the board to prevent damaging the new LED. (600 degrees F for 1.5 seconds max per leg)
Reinstall the LEDs and the low beam reflector. 
Test the light and all should be OK.
If you have further problems, post them here and I will try to help. If you are ever in the Washington DC area, my garage is always open to try to help also.
This is what we want to see!
















This is what an organized person does not want to see, my bench when I was done.








Wow, my hands hurt!









_Modified by R32BOB at 9:13 AM 6-21-2006_


_Modified by R32BOB at 7:28 AM 1-8-2009_


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## gabedibble (Feb 6, 2003)

NICE!


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## Gmc85 (Jun 20, 2006)

*Re: Mk4 Celis repair DIY (A2B4guy)*

Right, I need to try find a way to get those voltage regulators to me here in the UK. I'm fine with electronic stuff, its just getting hold of these bloody things! Anyone kno any suppliers that'll ship the VSD-0350S's to the UK?


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## stripethree (Jun 4, 2004)

Awesome DIY Bob! Now the question is, can I do this myself.


_Modified by stripethree at 7:57 AM 6-21-2006_


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## actng (Apr 27, 2004)

this is great news! good job bob! i need to save this to PDF in case the picture links ever die.


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## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: (actng)*

Please do!! I was wondering how to do it myself. Thanks in advance. I'll post a link in the DIY once you do it.


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## A2B4guy (Dec 19, 2002)

*Re: (R32BOB)*

You can always save the html page and save the pics separately.


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## stripethree (Jun 4, 2004)

More than willing to host it: link. Feel free to add it to the top post or wherever you'd like.


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## yum (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (stripethree)*

yeah, great DIY... now i have to find someone in MA that can help me with this. This is way more than I can handle on my own.


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## jmikola (Jul 16, 2005)

great work http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## DubbHatch (Dec 14, 2005)

Nice right up. Now I won't be affraid of Celis rings in the future if i ever feel like getting some.


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## actng (Apr 27, 2004)

looks like yall beat me to the PDF


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## Jazz2556 (May 24, 2006)

r32bob,
please help me kind sir! are you willing to outsource 
your services? Cheers - JB2556


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## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: (Jazz2556)*

I'd be glad to help, IM me to set some thing up.


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## Gmc85 (Jun 20, 2006)

*Re: (R32BOB)*

Fixed my driver side rings today!
I used http://www.dotlight.de/shop/pr...d/440 instead of the one recommended by r32bob. Attached a heatsink to it too.
Didnt change the passenger side one yet though...no need because it still works! And after fixing the driver side ring, the rings didnt look any brighter compared to the passenger side...so I didnt see the need to change it. Should I have used a voltage regulator that was higher than 350mA?
Anyway I'm happy enough to see my rings working once again


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## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: (Gmc85)*

350 mA is what the LEDs are rated for. Is the VR exposed as shown in the link, or is it sealed in some way? Potential moisture problems could become an issue if the are not sealed like the ones I recomended. 
Otherwise, good job! I'm glad I could help.


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## Gmc85 (Jun 20, 2006)

*Re: (R32BOB)*

Not sealed, but i plan to sort that out later with use of a glue gun








And I think I was wrong about the brightness thing...they look suberb at night still, as illustrated


















_Modified by Gmc85 at 2:50 PM 6-26-2006_


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## monster20v (Mar 19, 2005)

*Re: (Gmc85)*

I'm gonna try this out. Thanks for the DIY


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## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: (Gmc85)*

That looks great!








I would use silicone sealant instead of hot glue to seal the board, but keep in mind how it will keep cool. Don't seal the heat sink.


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## stripethree (Jun 4, 2004)

Something that *may* makes things easier for swapping the LEDs:
I noticed that on this page if you look at the third image from the left, that looks *exactly* like the board. The part is a couple dollars more, but if you want to avoid soldering, it might be worth it. The LED on the board is the Luxeon Star/C, part # LXHL-MWEA, and can be purchased through the same store Bob has previously linked. The link also shows the different colors you can get the LEDs in.


_Modified by stripethree at 3:21 PM 6-29-2006_


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## Gmc85 (Jun 20, 2006)

*Re: (stripethree)*

My passenger side blew last night (Darn these green hella voltage regulators







). Just replaced it with the VR I had prepared since I replaced the other one, so the job was done quick







All's good so far!
If either side dies again, I'll probably replace the VR once more and sell them on, and recommend the next person to not put a HID kit in!


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## Factor (Sep 1, 2001)

*Re: (Gmc85)*

Thanks! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## stripethree (Jun 4, 2004)

FYI: from futureelectronics:
VSD-0350S – Backorder lead time is approx. 6-8 weeks.
Currently looking for another source.


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## stripethree (Jun 4, 2004)

Found a place: http://www.brightideaslighting...id=11
Call to order though, their shopping cart wasn't working right (maybe someone else has better luck). I placed an order, they are going to check and make sure they have them in stock and will get back to me. Also make sure you get the right part number, as there are two listed on that page.


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## stripethree (Jun 4, 2004)

*Re: (stripethree)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stripethree* »_Found a place: http://www.brightideaslighting...id=11

Got all my parts today. The voltage regulators from Bright Ideas have wires coming from them rather than just connectors; and yes, it's the same part number and the part looks exactly as Bob has pictured, I guess they just ship a little differently. Anyway, point being, if you order the regulators from Bright Ideas, you shouldn't need the wiring harnesses. I'll verify this when I perform the install on my lights.


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## yum (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (stripethree)*

please do. without that extra bit of wiring, even i might be able to do this fix myself


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## yum (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (yum)*

any word on the fix yet, stripe three? did that voltage regulator work out for you without the extra wiring harness?


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## stripethree (Jun 4, 2004)

^ Out of town all weekend, so I haven't gotten to this yet. Hopefully (maybe) this week/end.


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## stripethree (Jun 4, 2004)

Words cannot describe...
 
 
They are not on the car, just hooked up to the battery. Whole process of swapping the regulators took maybe 90 minutes, and that's with a non-electrical type (me) going slow and bs-ing with my friend helping me out.
I can't wait to get these back on the car. Bob - beer. I'm buying. You rock.


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## actng (Apr 27, 2004)

how come mine are bluish? Good job with the rings! BOB for PREZ again!


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## yum (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (stripethree)*

suhweet!!!!!!! so the voltage regulator that you ordered that came with the wire leads worked just fine? that is fantastic news! i'm gonna go order one right now! i want to experience the rapture of working lights too.
just to double check, I need the following part number right?
VSD-0350S Dimmable Smart Driver 42.50
I can't get the link from Bright Ideas to work right. The shopping cart keeps telling me that it's $85 even though it's listed as only $42.50 each. Grrrr. I guess I'll have to call tomorrow.

_Modified by yum at 11:47 PM 7-18-2006_


_Modified by yum at 11:52 PM 7-18-2006_


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## stripethree (Jun 4, 2004)

*Re: (actng)*


_Quote, originally posted by *actng* »_how come mine are bluish? Good job with the rings! BOB for PREZ again!

I honestly think it's just differences in camera and external light. If you look at pics of mine in the other thread they look bluish from certain angles and in certain lighting conditions.

_Quote, originally posted by *yum* »_just to double check, I need the following part number right?
VSD-0350S Dimmable Smart Driver 42.50
I can't get the link from Bright Ideas to work right. The shopping cart keeps telling me that it's $85 even though it's listed as only $42.50 each. Grrrr. I guess I'll have to call tomorrow.

That's the correct part number and if you order that one, you don't need the wiring harnesses. Bright Idea's shopping cart didn't work right me me either, give them a call to order; I can't remember the name of the lady I spoke to but she was very helpful!


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## yum (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (stripethree)*

just got off the phone with bright ideas, shipping out today. hopefully fixed by this weekend! nice guy, good conversation.
stripethree did you email TM Tuning to let them know the issue and the fix? they gave you quite the run around didn't they?
is anyone else running these lights with an HID set up without a separate relay? it's something i haven't gotten around to and was wondering if it is related to the celis blow out or if it was just a faulty part that caused the celis failure.


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## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: (stripethree)*

Jeff,
Welcome back to full illumination!
I'm glad it worked out well. My repair is going on 1 month old, and still works fine. I use them every day with the HID's on and even the fogs on occasion. The 100 degree temps had no detrimental effect either. I hope to get to a schnell ms GTG and see you work soon.
Bob


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## stripethree (Jun 4, 2004)

*Re: (R32BOB)*

Awesome, I'm sure others appreciate the update and are happy to know yours are still working wonderfully.
I'm going to try to get back to a Schnell meet soon, I've been missing them because I have a grad class on Wednesday evenings this summer. Soon, hopefully, I'll be able to make it out there.


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## actng (Apr 27, 2004)

LOL we should all have a CELIS gtg to celebrate functional CELIS rings!


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## stripethree (Jun 4, 2004)

*Re: (yum)*


_Quote, originally posted by *yum* »_stripethree did you email TM Tuning to let them know the issue and the fix? they gave you quite the run around didn't they?

I emailed them showing them the fix thread and never got a reply. I'm tempting to email them and ask for the $ back that I fronted to ship the light back to Germany, since I was told I'd have that refunded once it was proven that the lights where the problem, not the car. In fact, I think I will... we'll see what they say.
Edit: email sent.


_Modified by stripethree at 3:25 PM 7-19-2006_


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## yum (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (stripethree)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stripethree* »_I emailed them showing them the fix thread and never got a reply. I'm tempting to email them and ask for the $ back that I fronted to ship the light back to Germany, since I was told I'd have that refunded once it was proven that the lights where the problem, not the car. In fact, I think I will... we'll see what they say.
Edit: email sent.

_Modified by stripethree at 3:25 PM 7-19-2006_

good luck with that. 
got my regulator shipped today. wow, almost 9 bucks to ship that lil sucker. i hope it's worth it. btw, am i the last one here to fix theirs?








Say did everyone that did this fix attach a heat sink to the regulator?


_Modified by yum at 6:17 PM 7-19-2006_


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## stripethree (Jun 4, 2004)

*Re: (yum)*


_Quote, originally posted by *yum* »_good luck with that.

Got a reply: long story short - no refund of any kind, "I can tell you quite honestly that there will be no such refund or even consideration of one... what is described in that link (this thread) has proved nothing but even strengthen my point that it is the car and not the lights. All you guys are doing is putting a fairly complicated band-aid on the light which is suffering under a fault in the car... These were isolated incidents and even more isolated to the individual cars."


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## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: (stripethree)*

Big Surprise!!!
Bandaids make things better don't they? I'm still puzzled how a plug and play installation of these lights which work on the same 12v DC circuit as all VWs do(AFAIK), would cause this failure. Any body have forced induction on their alternators?








"We" wouldn't want to admit to any liability as this could cause all kinds of problems. Think of all the refunds and/or repairs not to mention the shipping expenses.
In any event a solution was found and it still works!








Bob


_Modified by R32BOB at 9:02 AM 7-20-2006_


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## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: (yum)*


_Quote, originally posted by *yum* »_
Say did everyone that did this fix attach a heat sink to the regulator?

I think a heatsink is your insurance that you won't have to do this in the future. I've been repairing medical equipment for almost 20 years and heat IS what kills electronics. Heat management is of the utmost importance in designing any electronic device. Since the Hella VR was set in poured rubber, there was no heat relief. It might have been water tight, but it obviously didn't last. Aside from a defective component in the VR, that caused "out of box" failures, this is most likely a heat issue. (Since most of these did not fail immediately upon first use, "out of box" does not seem to be the issue) They worked just long enough to overheat and fail.
Heatsink=cheap insurance
Bob


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## stripethree (Jun 4, 2004)

*Re: (R32BOB)*


_Quote, originally posted by *R32BOB* »_In any event a solution was found and it still works!









Exactly. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## jmikola (Jul 16, 2005)

quick question...
assuming i'm using the voltage regulator stripethree suggested, which eliminates then need for the wiring harness, will i still need the Luxeon LED board?
for the record, both of my celis lights are out, both have the tmtuning blue xion hid kit installed, and i'm not sure if the led's are bad, or just the VR. is the Luxeon board only for fixing burnt out LED's - I can't quite make that out from the original instructions. thanks.


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## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: (jmikola)*

Most likely you just need the VRs. The luxeon LED board is only if the LEDs are bad. My LEDs failed when I tried a different method of repair and I burned them out with an overcurrent. Learning from my mistake, I only did this in one headlight. What is more interesting is that I did this in the headlight that was still working. The headlight in which the voltage regulator had failed, had no LED damage. This should assure most of you that a failed Hella VR will not damage your LEDs.
The new VR is a constant current power supply that is designed to work with these specific LEDs, so using it will not cook the LEDs either.
So unless you got creative and juiced your LEDs like I did, they are probably fine.
Bob


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## stripethree (Jun 4, 2004)

*Re: (jmikola)*

Just so you know I did not have to replace any LEDs, and before the fix, bench testing the lights got no illumination of the LEDs on the passenger side light. The driver's side showed up dim before the fix, so I was confident the LEDs were okay, the passenger side I wasn't sure, but it turned out they were fine.


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## yum (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (stripethree)*

finally got my regulator in the mail. stripethree, what did you do with the extra wiring off the regulator? did you just wrap it up in elec tape and tuck it aside?


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## jmikola (Jul 16, 2005)

ok, i'm heading to radioshack to pick up parts to do this at the long island r32 gtg tomorrow.
i have the new VR's that stripethree suggested, so i'm just getting the following:
* heat sinks
* crimp connectors
* heat paste
and the supplies listed... the only thing i skipped is the wiring assemblies. i take it the rivets from the celis lights are reusable after i take them out and need to reseal the holes?


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## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: (jmikola)*

You shouldn't need the heat paste unless your have to replace the LEDs. You will need new rivets or screws as the old ones are destroyed when you drill them out. Use the new rivets or screws to seal the two holes.
Have fun!


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## jmikola (Jul 16, 2005)

*Re: (R32BOB)*


_Quote, originally posted by *R32BOB* »_You shouldn't need the heat paste unless your have to replace the LEDs. You will need new rivets or screws as the old ones are destroyed when you drill them out. Use the new rivets or screws to seal the two holes.
Have fun!









well i don't have a rivet gun so new rivets are out of the question. i hope i have screws that fit - otherwise i'll be using copius tape to seal it up from both sides.
also, radioshack didn't even have the heat sink, so all i'm taking to the gtg tomm is the 2 crimp types listed in the OP and the VR's themselves. hope this works out


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## yum (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (jmikola)*

thanks R32Bob. i've finally gotten around to fixing mine. i wish i gave it more thought before i started drilling cuz i got dust/particles in the lens now.








how hot do you think the heatsink will get? i used a plastic nut to hold it in place and i'm hoping it won't get hot enough to melt it. i'm guessing not very hot at all since you mentioned it was running at 3/4 capacity.







for you, cheers.


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## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: (yum)*

You should be fine. It shouldn't get but just warm at most. Try using a can of "dust off" to get rid of the particles in the lens. It is kind of trick to blowing air into the back of the light while holding it with the lens up. I'm glad I could help.


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## jmikola (Jul 16, 2005)

bob, thanks a ton for the pm help. i was actually able to find a radio shack that carried the heat sinks while i was visiting PA today for a gtg. the VR swap was easy as pie - just took my time








feels good to have them working again http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: (jmikola)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Glad I could help!


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## yum (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (jmikola)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jmikola* »_bob, thanks a ton for the pm help. i was actually able to find a radio shack that carried the heat sinks while i was visiting PA today for a gtg. the VR swap was easy as pie - just took my time








feels good to have them working again http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif









yeah, good thing that radio shack had 2 small heatsinks that didn't require any cutting and was the perfect size. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
nice front end. i've got a boser hood coming this week and i was worried about how it would block the celis but this looks great.


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## jmikola (Jul 16, 2005)

*Re: Mk4 Celis repair DIY (R32BOB)*


_Quote, originally posted by *yum* »_yeah, good thing that radio shack had 2 small heatsinks that didn't require any cutting and was the perfect size. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

did you get a different product than what bob referred to? of all the radio shacks i found, only one even had his kit.... and on that note...

_Quote, originally posted by *R32BOB* »_The finned heat sink is longer than the VR. Trim the heat sink to the length of the VR with a hack saw or dremel tool(*it cuts easily*).

utter poppycock! i don't what you used but we had two guys on one heat sink keeping it in a vise and going at it with a 4" diameter dremel and the thing put up a huge fight.









_Quote, originally posted by *yum* »_nice front end. i've got a boser hood coming this week and i was worried about how it would block the celis but this looks great.









thanks, my other option that i'm still pondering is a sleepy notchless (so no boser around the grille), although i suppose those might block the top of the rings more.


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## yum (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: Mk4 Celis repair DIY (jmikola)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jmikola* »_did you get a different product than what bob referred to? of all the radio shacks i found, only one even had his kit.

yes. the radio shack i went to had a heat sink that were the exact width of the reg and half the length. i bought 2 and it fit perfectly, no cutting and they were something like $2 each. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## dubdoor (Apr 23, 2006)

a week after the drop-in kit...bzzzt...driver dimmed to 50%...so bob and the others who've performed this fix....hows the short term success...??


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## yum (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (dubdoor)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubdoor* »_a week after the drop-in kit...bzzzt...driver dimmed to 50%...so bob and the others who've performed this fix....hows the short term success...??

what drop in kit? HID set up?
mine is still perfect after a month http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## actng (Apr 27, 2004)

hahha this means no way am i putting HID in these lights!!


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## dubdoor (Apr 23, 2006)

*Re: (yum)*

some cheap korean stuff....race something or other....
h7 5000k....hids work great...white beams of photon madness...
trying to track down the voltage regs...looks like futureelectronics is out of stock and lead time is 2-4 weeks... http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
good to hear you're still rockin the night.... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: (dubdoor)*

I'm still burning bright on all rings!!








Its been about three months and I've driven 50 miles a day in heavy traffic every weekday commuting to work in everything from 100 plus degrees to heavy rains. I keep the rings and my HID's on for better visibility on the Washington beltway. It pays to be seen in the traffic around here.
I really don't think drop in HID's have anything to do with the problem. The stock VR's just suck.


----------



## dubdoor (Apr 23, 2006)

*Re: (R32BOB)*

good stuff then gents...!!
now to find the i2system vrs...or is there other manufacturers with compatible units???
anyone come across anything else or are these lil devils too specialized for any/all microelectronics makers to produce???
must find...i can't stand the ghetto look of one side poochin' out


----------



## yum (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (dubdoor)*

yeah, having "pirate eye" is not very cool. pull the ground and save yourself the heartache until you can source a VR. good luck i know the pain.


----------



## dubdoor (Apr 23, 2006)

*Re: (R32BOB)*

IM w/ question...


----------



## yum (Aug 7, 2001)

*Hello darkness my old friend...*

So, it was fun while it lasted but now I'm back to being slightly depressed. The driver's side set of celis (the ones that didn't go out originally) has gone dim. The passenger side that I swapped a new regulator are still burning bright, but just noticed tonite that the driver's side is at least half as bright. They did seem to get slightly brighter after letting them run for a bit but still no where near the level of the fixed side.
R32BOB, can a failing volt reg cause the dimming? Gotta ask before I blow another $60 on volt regs and heat sinks. 
Thanks in advance.


----------



## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: Hello darkness my old friend... (yum)*

Sure can. That's why I replaced both of mine, even though only one side had failed.
Cheer up, once you've done both sides, life will be good and bright. Mine still is even after all this time, so far(fingers comfortably not crossed).


_Modified by R32BOB at 10:04 PM 10-14-2006_


----------



## yum (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: Hello darkness my old friend... (R32BOB)*

well, part is ordered. is it possible that by running my HIDs through the wiring harness and not directly to the battery with a relay is causing electrical distortion? ack!
thanks again.


----------



## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: Hello darkness my old friend... (yum)*

I doubt it would cause a problem. In any event it is a good idea to isolate any additional equipment through a fused and relayed circuit. Helps keep everything under warranty.


----------



## yum (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: Hello darkness my old friend... (R32BOB)*

the sadness continues...








got my new volt regulator in on saturday... hooked it up sunday and no lights at all now.
sigh.
luckily i have my gf's car to drive since i left the front end in pieces in the garage.
R32Bob, can you think of anything else I can do to test if it's a dud volt regulator? i swapped the first one i replaced from the passenger side into the now dead driver's side and it worked fine.
luckily bright ideas lighting doesn't seem to have a problem with sending me a new one. i just gotta pay to ship it back to them.
i seriously regret doing my headlights more than my loud azz GHL exhaust. ahhhhh... i want my stock car reliability back! oh wait... i drive a 1.8T. 







to drown my sorrows.


----------



## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: Hello darkness my old friend... (yum)*

check to see if you have 12 volts going in to the VR. You should have a more than 6 volts but less than 12 volts coming out going to the LED's. If you don't, the VR could be bad. If you do, try switching the polarity going to the LED's. If that doesn't work or if you have more questions, let me know.
Bob


----------



## yum (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: Hello darkness my old friend... (R32BOB)*

thanks for the quick response. i really appreciate it.
i do have a few questions.
i don't have any electrical testing equipment on hand, but does it stand to logic that if the lights power up fine with the 1st (working) VR then the power source should be ok?
second, if i reverse the polarity of the LED leads, i'm assuming you mean to switch the GND and VOUT wires from the VR? (i'm assuming if it's wrong it won't damage the LEDs. i think i recall the worse that can happen is they don't light)
and third, is it possible to run both sets of celis from one VR? that way i can splice into the GND and VOUT off the 1st VR and just run it into the lead of the other headlight?
thanks


----------



## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: Hello darkness my old friend... (yum)*

One VR can run 3 LED's, not 4. 
Reversing the polarity should not damage the LED's if you connect them briefly.(You are correct in switching GND and VOUT)
The safest way to do this would be to look at exactly how your working light is wired and duplicate it on the nonworking one. If there still is a problem, then connect the nonworking light to the wiring harness connector for the other light. If it lights up, then there is a problem not in the headlight.
You can also get an OK voltmeter at radioshack for like $10.00. 
I'm always here for more questions.
Bob


----------



## yum (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: Hello darkness my old friend... (R32BOB)*

thanks. i've checked the wiring several times, even muttering out loud the different colors of the wiring.
i have talked to Bright Ideas and Craig was really cool with sending me a new one. so i hope the new just pops right in.
thanks for all your help in yet another chapter of annoyance.


----------



## yum (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: Hello darkness my old friend... (yum)*

ah finally back on the road... i did manage to lose a screw for the headlight mounts







must have kicked it or something. not sure. lost track since the car was in pieces for over a week. but finally back on the road and burning brightly. thanks again for saving me... again...


----------



## BLUL8N (Dec 11, 2004)

*Power filter?*

I just wonder if maybe power spikes and such might help push the original VRs to fail.
Might there be some preventive measures, like e.g. an inline choke or something one could install into the wiring before installing brand new lights to lower the chances of the VRs failing in the first place, or are you pretty much 100% sure they fail for heat related reasons?
Ronald


----------



## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: Power filter? (BLUL8N)*

IMO the original VR's were of a poor design. Voltage spikes should be considered in the design of any circuit with an input voltage. Hella should have had enough experience with automotive electronics, including VW, to fully understand the characteristics of our electrical systems. I think the stock VR's just fail due to a design or component issue.
My replacement VR's are still going strong after almost 6 months and a hot summer.








Bob


----------



## yum (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: Power filter? (R32BOB)*

Also, isn't this a problem with only us suckers... I mean early adopters? Not hearing any issues from people that have been buying the later units.
On a side note, I have yet to run into anyone else with these lights. These are more "rare" than I thought.


----------



## Crzypdilly (Feb 20, 2004)

*Re: Power filter? (yum)*

Kind of off topic but I thought it would be best to ask here since you guys seen the inside of these. I'm an American living in UK. Since the cars drive on the right side of the road here, beam pattern is a big deal. Is there a "tourist lever" in the assembly to change between LHD and RHD beam patterns? I don't want to sink a ton of money on lights if I can't use them in the US. Thanks


----------



## yum (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: Power filter? (Crzypdilly)*

the cars on are the right side in the UK? i thought they drove on the left?
at any rate, i don't think you should have a problem with these lights since they are set for this beam pattern: __/ so the upsweep is on the right side, thus not blinding oncoming traffic to your left.
i didn't look that closely as R32BOB probably has. i didn't see any switch of any kind as you're hoping for.


----------



## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: Power filter? (yum)*

No way to change the beam pattern with a switch.
Bob


----------



## turbizznatch (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: Mk4 Celis repair DIY (R32BOB)*

What style of emitter or you using for this DIY? Lambertian, Batwing, or side-emitting? Also, do you think the Luxeon III emiter would be too bright (lamertian=80 lumens, and side-emitting=70 lumens) when compared to the Luxeon I (Lambertian=45 lumens, Batwing=20/45 lumens, and side-emitting=45 lumens). Your input would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: Mk4 Celis repair DIY (turbizznatch)*

Hella uses the batwing emmitter pattern. I don't think too bright is a problem, but too high a current draw would be. I think the Luxeon III LED's draw more current, which would mean more heat and a different voltage regulator. Look on the futureelectronics.com web site for all the specs.


----------



## 05GolfTDINoob (Oct 16, 2005)

Hey guys..
I've been wanting these headlights for a VERY VERY long time...and finally..they arrive tomorrow..
My original plan was to install these and throw a drop in HID kit into it...but after reading this thread and the other Hella Celis problem thread, I'm scared...
Lets say I decide to go through with my plan to install these with an HID drop in kit...would you recommend that I do this DIY mod before any problems arise just to get it outa the way (cuz from what Ive read here..EVERYBODY's angel eyes eventually fail...whether it be a week or a few months later)...
Also, what would be the proper wiring/prep steps I should take if I were to still go through with these headlights with HID drop in kit?
I'm getting worried that these lights are going to be more trouble than anything...but at the same time...seeing the pictures of these headlights makes it so difficult to decide against these lights.
If these lights are that much trouble...I'm almost tempted to just resell these lights and buy a set of Helix Projectors (non Angel Eyes) and throw an HID drop in kit in that....much less worries without the angel eyes..
so in conclusion, could someone please tell me what I should do to minimize any chance of having to deal with this issue? 
ALso, I have absolutely no experience with electrical stuff...and reading this DIY has scared the hell outa me cuz I dont think I would be able to do it...
can someone reccomend what type of person or professional would find this easy to do? I might have to find someone to do it for me..
ack...this really sucks...I want these lights to be as trouble free as possible...


----------



## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: (05GolfTDINoob)*


_Quote, originally posted by *05GolfTDINoob* »_
Lets say I decide to go through with my plan to install these with an HID drop in kit...would you recommend that I do this DIY mod before any problems arise just to get it outa the way (cuz from what Ive read here..EVERYBODY's angel eyes eventually fail...whether it be a week or a few months later)...


I would go ahead and do the VR upgrade as a preventive measure unless you feel lucky and enjoy removing and reinstalling the headlights.

_Quote, originally posted by *05GolfTDINoob* »_
Also, what would be the proper wiring/prep steps I should take if I were to still go through with these headlights with HID drop in kit?


As far as the lights go, the drop in HID kit requires drilling a hole in the back cover for wire and connectors to fit through(check the directions that come with the kit).

_Quote, originally posted by *05GolfTDINoob* »_ALso, I have absolutely no experience with electrical stuff...and reading this DIY has scared the hell outa me cuz I dont think I would be able to do it...
can someone reccomend what type of person or professional would find this easy to do? I might have to find someone to do it for me..


I'd look for a fellow dubber in your area to help you, or a stereo/electrical shop of some sort.
Good luck!
Post any other questions.
Once it's done you should be set. Mine are still 100%
Bob


----------



## yum (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (R32BOB)*

celis question: as a fellow electrical noob, i would say that the VR replacement is very easy. but my wiring/soldering/etc is fugly!!! i'd be embarrased if anyone opened my lights. heh. having said that. both mine are still burning brightly.
HID question: i got mine from TM Tuning with everything pre-installed and ready to go. i still had someone install mine for fear of messing up my expensive new lights. my driver's side HID just went kaput so i'm not sure if that will scare you away from getting them. i have been driving with the foglights to avoid the dead headlight look and they seem to light up the road sufficiently when there are other street lights.
overall personal experience: the headlights are the #1 regret i have for my car. i wish i never touched them and spent the money on something else, like a pioneer nav system. it's headache after headache with my lights but when they are working right... sweetness!!!
R32BOB, you solved the Celis ring mystery, care to take a swing at my HID problem too?


----------



## 05GolfTDINoob (Oct 16, 2005)

*Re: (yum)*


_Quote, originally posted by *yum* »_celis question: as a fellow electrical noob, i would say that the VR replacement is very easy. but my wiring/soldering/etc is fugly!!! i'd be embarrased if anyone opened my lights. heh. having said that. both mine are still burning brightly.
HID question: i got mine from TM Tuning with everything pre-installed and ready to go. i still had someone install mine for fear of messing up my expensive new lights. my driver's side HID just went kaput so i'm not sure if that will scare you away from getting them. i have been driving with the foglights to avoid the dead headlight look and they seem to light up the road sufficiently when there are other street lights.
overall personal experience: the headlights are the #1 regret i have for my car. i wish i never touched them and spent the money on something else, like a pioneer nav system. it's headache after headache with my lights but when they are working right... sweetness!!!
R32BOB, you solved the Celis ring mystery, care to take a swing at my HID problem too?









What type of HID drop ins did you get with the kit? it could quite possibly be that that particular bulb was a crappy one that got through QC...try seeing if there is some kind of warranty for them...
I dotn know too much about electrical stuff...as you already know..but I cant see how the headlights would cause the bulb to go...hell maybe its a crappy ballast or ignitor or both that got through QC...definitely check to see what kinda warranty you have with those...u should have at least a year..


----------



## yum (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (05GolfTDINoob)*


_Quote, originally posted by *05GolfTDINoob* »_What type of HID drop ins did you get with the kit? it could quite possibly be that that particular bulb was a crappy one that got through QC...try seeing if there is some kind of warranty for them...

The kit can be viewed on TM Tuning's site. I believe it is called Xion. I have another post going to get help on the issue so I won't repeat it here. I will say that TM offered to test and replace the parts under warranty and their customer service is pretty fast, especially considering they are in Germany http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif . I'm not certain if I'm at that point yet. 
Some after thoughts on the lights. I'd say that if everything worked (glitches aside) the beam pattern with the halogen housing is pretty good, but probably not as precise as the OEM set up. So if the best lighting quality is a concern, I would have gone the OEM route in hindsight. But if you like the pimp factor of the celis lights, and the beam pattern is not the biggest concern, go with these hella lights.
I did read a post of someone else having issues with the bulb not being the right fit and causing all sorts of strange beam patterns. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2814355
So you might want to consider that as well. The kit from TM fits right, so that may be worth it to you to order from them since they did the research already.


----------



## illcaptive (Dec 18, 2001)

just finished vr fix it worked great thanks guys for all your help.


----------



## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: (illcaptive)*


_Quote, originally posted by *illcaptive* »_just finished vr fix it worked great thanks guys for all your help.








 
Another satisfied customer!!


----------



## 05GolfTDINoob (Oct 16, 2005)

Well, I just installed my new headlights yesterday...I was hoping and praying I may get luckyand my ligts would work out!!
Odds were agaist me...and yes I lost...
the passenger side angel eyes crapped out during my first drive...
so it looks like I'll have to take on this DIY....
kinda worried though...dont wnana ruin some pimp pimp pimp lights...
I LOVE THEM!!!!! Loook absolutely AMAZING


----------



## yum (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (05GolfTDINoob)*

i can't believe with this many folks blowing the celis rings that hella has not admitted a problem. sorry, dude. the repair is easy as pie, even for a noob like me. misery loves company and i feel your pain... more than once. fix it, forget it and move on.


----------



## 05GolfTDINoob (Oct 16, 2005)

Problem guys,
Went to futureelectronics.com and found the VR's but they do not have the 2 wiring assemblies model VCA-87 anymore..
can these be purchased directly from i2systems.com? do they sell parts to the public or just wholesale to distributors?
Need to ge tthese soon 
Thanks !


----------



## 05GolfTDINoob (Oct 16, 2005)

Well I called i2systems and they are able to sell me the two parts I need..
the 2 VR's and the 2 Wireing asseblines...but damn...the wireing asseblies were $10 each...ouch...
anywyas...$35 bux each for the VR's and $10 each for the Wireing harnesses...and probably $10 for shipping...
total of $100 USD...
pricey fix..ouch


----------



## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: (05GolfTDINoob)*

Gota pay to pimp, pimp, pimp!!!


----------



## 05GolfTDINoob (Oct 16, 2005)

Hey are these the things crimp connectors we need? and which one is the Male and which is the female?? (im guessing the one on the right is the male??)
cuz I got a little confused at the hardware store..
http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics...5.jpg
Cuz on this posting you call them crimp connectors...
but i typed in the product item number at radio shack and these "quick disconnects" came up...
I couldnt find "spade crimp connectors" at the hardware store but I did find "spade terminals" which are the horshoe looking ones...I dont think those are the right ones are they?

just wanted clarification before I buy them..
both the parts I need for the connectors look like the ones in the radio shack site right? 2 quarter inch and 2 3/16" ones? correct? 
Anyways, some clarification would be great!
Thanks in advance
_Modified by 05GolfTDINoob at 4:28 PM 1-30-2007_


_Modified by 05GolfTDINoob at 12:32 PM 1-31-2007_


----------



## 05GolfTDINoob (Oct 16, 2005)

anyone?


----------



## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: (05GolfTDINoob)*

The ones in the picture are right. The one on the right is the male. You could bypass these by cutting the ones in the light's wiring off, and just joining the wires together by themselves. Using the connectors keeps the hella wiring intact as it came from the factory. It is a matter of preference. I used them since I was the first to try this, and did not know how it would work, so if I had to return them, I could.


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## 05GolfTDINoob (Oct 16, 2005)

Well...didnt think I would be able to pull this off....but with the help of R32BOB who answered a gazillion emails frome me, I got the thing to work...
and damn...its so much nicer having both sets of angel eyes work...and honestly...I think they are definitely noticably brighter as well
Thanks Bob!
Will post pics up later!


----------



## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: (05GolfTDINoob)*

Congratulations!!!








It was my pleasure to help.
Bob


----------



## Alaska (Oct 31, 2005)

*Re: Mk4 Celis repair DIY (R32BOB)*

Back from the dead.
Have the lamps for 2 months now. Installed a Drop in HID kit last week. Last night noticed passenger side HALO's were half as bright like they are dieing. Driverside looks fine. I believe I have the "newer" version of the VR (slim green rectangle). I'll have to look into replacing the VR with this DIY and let you guys know. 
Anyways Thanks to the OP for taking the time to figure this out and share it with the rest of us! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: Mk4 Celis repair DIY (Alaska)*

That is the same VR mine came with. Mine conversion is still going strong since last June! Let me know if you have any questions.
Bob


----------



## sleepygti28 (Feb 24, 2005)

BOB - you've helped quite a few 'texers here but you're nowhere to be found at local GTGs. you should come out to some man.








btw i saw you on Montgomery Village Ave one day, i'm pretty sure it was you.


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## vdubbin0. (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (sleepygti28)*

Bump ^^^^^
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Got my Celis and did the VR fix before i put them in my R.
Thanks for the DIY


----------



## ECS Tuning (Oct 2, 2006)

*Re: (vdubbin0.)*

We are proud to offer a plug and play solution:

*ECS Celis Wiring Harness Repair Kit*
ECS Tuning shows true dedication to the VW brand by developing this repair/upgrade harness for the Hella Celius headlights. This harness developed by ECS, repairs/replaces the problematic resistor assembly in the Hella Celis lights that caused premature "burn outs" on the angle eyes. ECS has tested these in all type of of conditions & done a extremely grueling 672 hour run test. One harness per headlight


----------



## Flashover (May 8, 2007)

*Re: (ECS Tuning - Sales)*

Has anyone used the ECS Celis Wiring Harness Repair Kit? If so how is it working out for you?


----------



## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: Mk4 Celis repair DIY (R32BOB)*

Update: The repair is still working fine. All rings are lit.


----------



## Paje (Dec 17, 2007)

*Re: (Flashover)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Flashover* »_Has anyone used the ECS Celis Wiring Harness Repair Kit? If so how is it working out for you?

I just had the Hella Celis (ordered from ECS Tuning w/"Wiring Harness Repair Kit" pre-wired) installed and am having issues with one of the Angel Eyes.
My local shop had them both installed and working 100% but when I went to pick it up the driver's side Angel Eye had failed. After hunting down grounds, hots, etc., it seemed to be a shorted wire. After replacing this faulty lead wire, the headlight, while removed, was working 100%. Reinstalled, replaced bumper and _then_ the one angel eye was visibly dimmer than the other. We were out of time (& patience) for any more trouble shooting at that point.








It's still in the same situation atm. Upon closer inspection it seems to be flickering slightly (rapid strobe effect) as well.
I've a call and e-mail into ECS Tuning and am awaiting word back on potential cause/remedy.
Cheers,
Paje


----------



## GeeTeeIzzle (Dec 7, 2005)

*Re: (Paje)*

wow that really sucks.....


----------



## Paje (Dec 17, 2007)

*Re: ECS Angel Eye anomaly*

Update: the drama continues








A little slow down over the holiday in trouble-shooting this. The faulty headlamp's Angel eyes are still @ ~ 50% brightness (as compared to fully functional lamp). I also noticed that they flicker or strobe when first powered on, as I mentioned, but this subsides after a few minutes. I've been corresponding with ECS who believe this to be caused by improper wiring and have requested a photo of the lamp in order to confirm. Unfortunately I'm not a tech and the headlamp will have to be removed (again!), photo'd and replaced while I await for ECS's evaluation. It is turning out to be very bizarre and frustrating.








I'm very curious how improper wiring could cause a headlamp to initially work 100%, then stop working altogether, work again 100%, then start flickering/strobing initially and fade to 50%. I had a couple of EE classes in my aeronatuical engineering degree... but I am no expert and at a total loss as to how incorrect wiring could cause all this.







A short in combination with faulty capacitor, resistor or some other electrical element in the wiring is what comes to my mind. 
Could anyone else with experience offer any possible diagnoses?
I'll keep posting back this thread (please advise if it would be more appropriate to start another) with updates.
Cheers,
Paje

_Modified by Paje at 7:38 AM 1-11-2008_


_Modified by Paje at 7:39 AM 1-11-2008_


----------



## R32BLK734 (Feb 11, 2005)

*Re: Mk4 Celis repair DIY (R32BOB)*

is this an OE light with those upgrades


----------



## R32BOB (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: Mk4 Celis repair DIY (R32BLK734)*

Still working great after 2 1/2 years.


----------



## VRptstyly (May 18, 2006)

*Re: Mk4 Celis repair DIY (R32BOB)*

nice.. this isn't a alternative for the ecs harness is it? The ecs harness is a resistor correct.
My rings dimmed and yellowed out a bit, especially at the top.. so I might have to give your repair a shot.. 
Prob just order those things up now
(edit) I need a little help, finding the goods though.. futureelectronics.com doesn't have those part #'s . Found the LED's tho, just need the volt. reg, and wiring assembly. 
You know something similiar or specs? thanx buddy.


_Modified by VRptstyly at 1:41 PM 2-6-2010_


----------



## 20B_envy (Mar 16, 2006)

Any insight into whether or not this works for the Mk3 Celis also?


----------



## andro2000x (Mar 12, 2010)

*Re: (20B_envy)*

hi i want to fix my lights. Is it possible to upload the .pdf file again because its down?


----------



## andro2000x (Mar 12, 2010)

*Re: (20B_envy)*

hi i want to fix my lights. Is it possible to upload the .pdf file again because its down?


----------



## W_Jetta (Mar 5, 2004)

*Re: (andro2000x)*

Is there any way just to lit up the only high beam angel rings?


----------



## louiegti2.8 (Jul 21, 2010)

*celis services*

hey 

i just saw this repai guid. 

im in ny can i pay you to help me? 

[email protected] 

please let em know


----------



## kam1280 (Oct 28, 2010)

*Mk4 Celis repair DIY (R32BOB)*

Hello R32BOB

I have bought a set of the Hella Celis Headlights. I have also read a lot about the ECS wiring kit and your DIY thread in repairing or replacing the green stuff in the headlight. I am not a technician to go through your DIY. What i woul like to know is that does the ECS wiring kit do the same job as your Celis repair DIY? If they are both meant for the same purpose, should i just buy the ECS kit instead of going through your DIY proceadures? Your quickest responce in this question will be much appreciated.

kam1280


----------



## Supergolff (Dec 9, 2010)

Hello R32BOB 

I did buy a pair of this headlights, in December 2010. About 2 months ago, my car did stay in garage for about 2 months... 

Since then, the angel eyes from passenger side, aren`t so bright as the driver side...:facepalm: 

Image: 

 

Before: 
 

Now: 

 

Driver side, like it should look.... 

 


2 weeks ago, i did buy from Canada, this stuf: 

 

So i made the conections and by-pass or ignore, the original VR, using as guide this DIY from a great forum, here in Portugal- 

http://www.clubegolfpt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=66829 

 

The problem: 

I reconect everything, but the light remain the same:banghead: 

Not worse, not better..... 

Could this be other issue? No electric mass in the cables? Midle and High beam work normaly...but i notice rear light presence, more weak than driver side... 

Or, could it be led issues?:screwy: 

Im open to any suggestion, since i love this "problematic" lights from Hella....so, any advice would be appreciated!! 

Tks in advance to all!


----------



## Supergolff (Dec 9, 2010)

Anyone? 

It is very important for me, a clue how to solve this....:sly: 

Im not the only one, here in Portugal with the same issue.. 





Help?


----------



## Supergolff (Dec 9, 2010)

Bump!

I need some help here.

Tks.


----------



## Turbo18_GTI (Jul 30, 2003)

After being unable to find the vsd-350 anywhere I think I found a suitable replacement and I ordered 2.

http://www.futureelectronics.com/en...iver-modules/Pages/1929876-RCD-24-0.35-W.aspx


----------



## Supergolff (Dec 9, 2010)

Some updates:

Yesterday, at my home...



One of the LED`s, apparently with problems....











Now, check out the differences between this two: on the top, one with "problems", the other one, from the good headlight, has different references... any thoughts??:banghead:

Some considerations:
I remove one of the good leds, to the bad headlight.....but the problem wasn`t resolved.

The "bad" LED on the good headlight, was almost perfect.

I measure the VR original, also the new one, and also the current going to all LED`s....no variations whatsoever....:screwy:










I did take the chance, and on the headlight that is ok, i turn off the green VR and include my new one, just in case for the future, and is working strong:

Questions:

How came, that changing all the LED from the headlight with no problems, to the bad one, things stays the same???:what::what::what:

This was made with a strong power-supply, so there isn`t here the typical problems of cables or bad contacts that could came from our cars....

My thoughts:

The only explanation that me, and some friends here in Portugal came, is that somehow, the Glass O`ring isn`t at the same place as the good one...
Maybe, it takes some millimetres difference between the LED and the O`ring, to change the temperature colour....

One even big mystery, than the classic green VR.....:sly:

*Turbo18_GTI*:

I`m using 2 of this:

http://www.luxeonstar.com/350mA-Non-Dimmable-BuckToot-Driver-With-Leads-p/7027-d-350.htm

Same stuff that ECS use?:laugh:

Anyway, i did get to a point, that i don`t now what should i do......maybe new`s LED`s...?

Since this isn`t a very active tread, i hope al least i can help someone reading this...:thumbup:


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## bansheelos (Nov 29, 2004)

:thumbup:


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## Supergolff (Dec 9, 2010)

Final Update: 

Today, this stuff arrive from Canada: 

http://shop.conrad-uk.com/component...power-leds/high-power-leds-luxeon/176214.html 

Then, i install 2 of them, connected to the power suply, and......same s***:banghead::screwy: 

In desperate cause i remove the glass, change e Angel eyes position.....everything i could remember:sly: 


 

Unless some obvious cause is escaping me, i have to give up:thumbdown: 

I too tired of trying put this piece of crap working. 
I suspect some defective glass angel......but at this stage, i don`t now what more to expect.. 

Over and Out.


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## Nuje (Dec 3, 2001)

Just as a follow-up to anyone else trying to do this:
I originally had the ECS replacement kit in there, but was terribly disappointed with how un-bright the Celis rings were - like, in moderate daylight, they are all but invisible. 

So, instead of doing the straight-ahead swap/fix, I picked up higher-brightness LEDs as well as doubling the power of the voltage regulators; the ECS kit comes with Luxeon 350mA drivers, and I ditched those and went with Luxeon 700mA "PowerPuck" drivers. 

I received the VRs prior to the LEDs, so I swapped just the regulator on one headlamp (seeing if that makes a difference), and yes - it is marginally brighter. If I asked my wife (who doesn't give a crap), though, she couldn't tell the diff.

On the other headlamp, I put in the higher-power driver as well as the brighter LED just on the high-beam Celis (much easier to get to that one), and I'd say it's maybe 20% brighter than the other one. Noticeable (even to my wife's "couldn't care less" eyes), but still not really visible from more than 30 feet away in daylight.

Summary: I'm done with them. The model I bought must be a weak-ass "beta" - (first run off the assembly line before Hella knew what they were doing with channeling light from an LED through a glass tube). For $700+, I expected more from them.


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## Djhani (Aug 13, 2012)

*Can't find the replacement bulbs*

Hey

My angel rings are not working and can't seem to find the bulbs on the future electronics website with the part number you have quoted. 

Can you please help me


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## WOB.018t (May 29, 2007)

any new updates from previous fixes?


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## rfsteel (Apr 10, 2020)

Apologies for bumping an old thread, CV19 has got me organising the garage, where I've come across a set of Hella Celis MK4 headlights that I purchased back in 2011, and never got round to fitting due to the failed VR in one unit, fortunately I also had purchase spare LED drives and bulbs but never got round to diagnosing the issue, until now, so thought I'd share some photos and parts used.

Basically I just used a voltmeter to check that 12V was present either side of the VR to confirm it still worked, in my case just one side had failed, and just needed to ensure the correct polarity driving the LEDs, quick test using some crocodile clips before soldering and heat shrinking the wiring.










Wiring the replacement driver required the following;

Headlight Brown == Driver Input Black (-)
Headlight Red == Driver Input Red (+)
Driver Output Green == LED Connector Brown (-)
Driver Output Orange == LED Connector Black (+)


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## rfsteel (Apr 10, 2020)




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## rfsteel (Apr 10, 2020)

LED light test pins are lower row, far right (+), and 2nd from left for (-)


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## rfsteel (Apr 10, 2020)

Original working headlight wiring


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## rfsteel (Apr 10, 2020)




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## rfsteel (Apr 10, 2020)

For replacement LED drivers









https://www.luxeonstar.com/700ma-non-dimmable-powerpuck-dc-driver-leads


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## rfsteel (Apr 10, 2020)

For replacement LEDs









https://www.luxeonstar.com/cool-white-6500k-20mm-star-led-180lm
https://www.luxeonstar.com/pre-cut-thermal-tape-for-20mm-hex-bases-12pcs

Will test the difference this evening between both LED drivers before removing the remaining Hella VR in headlight


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## rfsteel (Apr 10, 2020)

Some pics of the headlight with the modified driver installed;










How the driver is fixed, and the existing holes sealed;


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## rfsteel (Apr 10, 2020)

Some low light shots, left hand headlight has the OEM driver, right hand has the modified one


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