# 12v Mk3 VR6: Gunning for 12's



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Hey guys. Thought i would make up a thread as a bit of motivation for myself and others, as someone that has a large interest in the all motor vw game i find it saddening that i log onto these forums to find 0 to No updates etc, living in Australia makes it worse cause nothing happens here in performance terms for vw's. 

This is is a simplistic build with the final goal of getting into the 12 Second zone.

So it started with buying this 94 model as my second car, i too got stuck in the stance thing for a little while. 

















Then i started with the performance mods, had a shop build a 2.5" single muffler hi flow cat exhaust.

Secondly was trans work. I had a 3.94r&p installed along with a peloquin lsd.









Keeping with cheap and simplistic mods i focused on preliminary weight reduction. Gutted hatch, stripped interior.























This hatch started at 17.2kg i finished at 6.5kg (13~lbs) all while keeping functionality and strength.

I found some cheap cams and threw them in (262), ABV intake manifold, cx Coilovers, clutchnet stg 4 and flipside customs clutch fork, along with a EAA Engineering p/s delete and a/c delete.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

My next lot of mods will include a 3" Aluminum exhaust, a lightweight rear beam, as such and tubular control arms


----------



## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

Good luck with the build.
It's all down to weight and gearing on a NASP build.
Expectations of in the twelves are realistic.
Steve


----------



## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

I love these NA MK3 builds. That alum, exhaust will make a big weight difference, just makes sure it doesn't rub!


----------



## APCXxstovetopxX (Jul 9, 2009)

Ill be watching this, even though i gave in and bought a vortech instead of pushing further n/a


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Got a bit slack. Added mk4 calipers, bout a kg or so each lighter. General service. Bit hesitant to add crank pulley.


----------



## Pj1103 (Jan 19, 2010)

Good luck man! Great idea on the lightweight rear beam!

Pretty sure there's a guy on here selling an aluminum 3 inch exhaust if you have found one yet... Need_a_vr6 is his username

Its gonna be MADDD!


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Dyno'd yesterday.
262 cams, 2.9 manifold, cai, abd intake, ported exhaust manifolds stock downpipes and a 2.5" press bent exhaust.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Stripped rest of interior. Headliner, rear belts, some sound deadening, stuff off roof, black mat behind dash, some wiring and both airbags.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

removed all wiring from the rear doors and central locking pump/lines chopped most of the hatch harness except for number plate lights hopefully doesn't have an ill effect. 

Removed side intrusion bars in doors and made up plexi rear windows.

Also had the lightened hatch painted ready to be put on.


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Gotta get that harness done for you! That exhaust is 3.5" though probably a hair big for this one.


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

This is awesome, looking forward to seeing how light you get it!


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Made up the exhaust and downpipes over the weekend. Is damn loud. Bum dyno shows pretty good mid range gains, debatable up top and no change down low. 

2" stainless downpipes, long primaries. Sweet collector to 3" aluminium. Weighs in at a hefty 3.8kg with muffler vs 2.5" mild steel at 20kg. 


















And flames


----------



## Pj1103 (Jan 19, 2010)

Very cool! you saved a bunch of weight! 

I like the dual 2'" DP idea, are you running ported stock exhaust manifolds?:beer:


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

They are ported a bit. Not a great deal as i was only using a dremel.


----------



## Pj1103 (Jan 19, 2010)

Carbide bits are the way to go. Still takes time, but they will eat the metal right up.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)




----------



## Pj1103 (Jan 19, 2010)

That is a really cool downpipe set up. I wonder what kind of gains would be had compared to the stock ported manifolds with the TT downpipe.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Going to the dyno on friday. Won't know about tt difference. They cost nearly $1000 to get them to Australia


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Success! Made power and torque everywhere.


----------



## VR6DPLMT (Jan 19, 2013)

Yay!!! Finally was able to get my password from VWVortex reset after almost 2yrs. of trying to get it back. Well that's a long story.

I have been following your post a few things you might want to change to get your more power is replace the ABD intake b/c in the past those have been shown to make little to no power. If you can find a used Turn2 CAI those have shown to make most power when it comes to CAI's. If he still makes them you might want to also replace the Autotech 262's with DRC(Dougherty)268 cams. What kind of chip are you using as well? I see Paul is helping you out a little on this build which is good b/c he knows his VR6's. It's been a while how's life been with you Paul? So good luck on this build. I used to own a pretty modded N/A/ 12v VR6 and though I miss it if I get a chance to build another VR6 I'm going F/I.

Oh by the way what chip are you using? I didn't see that in the list of your mods. If you're not using one I suggest a off the shelf GIAC Chip. If I recall correctly they are good for a 10-12whp bump in power. Also I know it's expensive but have you ever thought about getting any head work done? P&P, bigger valves, or both? I had one with my old 12VR6 and when I switched out the TT264/260's and added DRC268's you could really feel the difference in the power up top. I also believe some people on here make short ram intake manifolds that work surprisingly well for N/A applications. I would save and get head work done especially with that beefy 3.5" exhaust. I honestly have never heard of anyone with a VR6 going that big. Also a good ported and gasket matched lower intake manifold and exhaust manifold will net you a good 5-7whp. Now all of this is dependent on the health of the engine . Well good luck. It makes me want to start another build but the time and money right now go into my band and not my VR6.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Got the abd cheap and my plsstic one had a tear. 

Has ebay cai with a blox velocity stack and 6" filter. Same thing as turn2 with their flared end. 

262's were just easiest to do. Will have a p&p'd head with tt288's next year. 

Car doesn't have a chip as there are only ebay ones that will work with our ecu. Giac charged $850 to have one written to work with our ecu. Getting paul to build a ms3 works out cheaper. 

Mine is only 3". Paul had 3.5" for his 3.6 build.

Intake manifold will come with new head.


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

On a 2.8 12v the 2"dp/3"back is just right.


----------



## Pj1103 (Jan 19, 2010)

Last time i checked DRC wasnt making any more cams for vw's. 

Though it was a overyear ago when i had emailed them, to recieve no reply.

I think the IE 268 cams are worth a shot. With the chip/cam package they claim over 200 hp. Though im not sure if its whp...

Either way hes gonna have to pay a ton to get stuff shipped to where he is. Bummer.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

After putting it for for nearly 2 years. I finally stripped the sound deadening. Went the cheap route and used a heat gun and a spatula. As easy as using dry ice. But there is alot of left over residue. (Glue stuff i think) whether or not you get this with dry on a vw i do not know. I didn't have any left over on the sti. 

Sound deadening added up to 10-12kg i would guess haven't weighed it yet. Along with the pad on the fire wall and the sandbags under the carpets there would be 25 odd kg of material. Quality car. 

Also put in the b&m shifter i have had for ever.







Feels pretty tight. Takes a bit of muscle to move it around gears. But you do get a good engagement feel. Not as notchy as what people say it makes it. But you know you've got a gear when you are hoonduh shifting. Is impossible to downshift into second from third now. Had a play with the side to side but no joy. Any tips? 

Also found the limit with weight removal.








Saved a whopping 2kg in metal. 
All up rear doors I've removed 20kg


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

Some have removed shift weight to help. Honestly I would switch to stock 02J stuff.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

The o2j's I've driven are as sloppy as the o2a. And i wasn't fond of the dieselgeek at all


----------



## VR6DPLMT (Jan 19, 2013)

IE Cams for The 12v VR6? I have never heard of them. Could you post a link I'd be interested in learning about them.


----------



## monkihead (Dec 26, 2014)

Have you replaced the side and rear windows with plexiglass? Eliminated passenger wiper?


----------



## VR6DPLMT (Jan 19, 2013)

$850 US Dollars? Jesus that's a ton of money for a chip but I am sure the programming is not the easiest as well. It's very cool of Paul to set up a mega squirt for you. TT288's cams and a really well done P&P head would be a blast to drive I'd imagine. I saw that you have the 3.94 R&P that one mod changes the car day and night, I had one and it was awesome. Much luck to you on your build and getting into the 12's. Will be following it.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

monkihead said:


> Have you replaced the side and rear windows with plexiglass? Eliminated passenger wiper?


The rear doors have been done. Hatch will be done later on.


----------



## monkihead (Dec 26, 2014)

Have you converted to maual brakes? I dont know if those had power brakes


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

I think all vw from late mk1 had power brakes. 

IE's 200hp is from an engine dyno.


----------



## monkihead (Dec 26, 2014)

I'd pull the booster, run manual brakes with an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Early vr's had oem prop valve? Was thinking I'd just go 2L mc, booster and lines. Don't have any ability or know anyone to make new brake lines for the front. 

Any idea on how much weight booster + abs saves?


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

The ABS valve assembly that uses the separate booster is light, around 2lbs. Not worth removing alone. The booster is heavier, but I've never weighed it. Manual brakes are kind of, well, tough. I never got that far with the Mk3. That's starting to get into the "not worth its."


----------



## monkihead (Dec 26, 2014)

Every bit counts. If you feel its not worth it, is getting an mk3 worth getting to go 12s all motor? To make new lines you need a double flaring tool. Some of our guys will remove the emergency brake just to get an edge.


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

I have no way to respond to this that doesnt sound snippy. Maybe I will think of something better later tonight.


----------



## monkihead (Dec 26, 2014)

Sorry if I seem rude. I run a performance store(mainly muscle cars) and have people looking to do everything to their car on a budget. Any goal is worth reaching if your willing to make thr expense. Ie- a customer walks in and tells me he wants 11s in a 1/4 from his car. The sloppy way is to build a motor with gobs of power and ignore the suspension. The better way is to make sure they are going to have the proper suspension for launch, which yields best times with low-med hp numbers.


----------



## Pj1103 (Jan 19, 2010)

I think what need is saying is that the hassle involved in taking out a functioning 2lbs aluminium block wouldnt be worth it. Considering he would have to make new brake lines and swap the booster iirc.

When one could start removing easier to remove, less usefull parts, like the interior. (Been dun did already)

Though i do agree everything counts.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Funnily enough. The master cylinder is stuffed i think so i can't even make abs engage.


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

monkihead said:


> Sorry if I seem rude.


No worries, I was avoiding exactly that myself. I agree that its all a system but some things dont need to be addressed. Like a 2lb chunk of alum that I was pissed to have it weigh so little once it was off. 

Also btdt with 12s in these cars, so hopefully my advice comes with some cred  12.833 at 2450lbs


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Does anyone know if the stock trans mount can be taken apart or the rubber cut out and replaced with metal? To get a bfi stage 2 kit here is nearly $400.


----------



## Pj1103 (Jan 19, 2010)

Ive taken apart one from a 2.0. From what i remember its a huge pita. There is a lot of grease on the inside haha. Im sure it could be done, youd probly have to fab up some metal


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

I have the 0.5 kit in at the moment so it isn't the liquid filled. 

Was thinking if its similar to front/rear mount could just cut a notch and slip a 'U' shaped piece around the post.


----------



## Pj1103 (Jan 19, 2010)

That should be a g60 mount then iirc. Im sure it could be done.


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

The g60 mount is solid rubber. Once you start cutting you'd just be left with two flanges. Probably better off just making those pieces like the delrin mounts are made.


----------



## Pj1103 (Jan 19, 2010)

Yeah this is true. Why do you need to modify it? Its a pretty solid mount for most applications. 

I feel that mount would flex just the right amount.

If you wanna go crazy, and possibly lighter than stock, check out a mk4 mount swap in the white gti 20v na build. I feel that would hold up well.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

I have a solid metal front mount and the rear 0.5. Engine moves alot when rolling of the clutch with no accelerator. Can't imagine clutch chatter could be so violent like this is. 

Car is not a daily driver and is only purpose is to do a 12. Why not i say 

Price for dss axles








Think I'll stick to breaking oem ones lol.


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

That gets old but it is a lot cheaper! Real oe ones hold much better than the rebuilt ones.


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

Pj1103 said:


> If you wanna go crazy, and possibly lighter than stock, check out a mk4 mount swap in the white gti 20v na build. I feel that would hold up well.


Which car is this referring to?


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Will dss axles be indestructible on slicks and this little power?


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

I've been running stage 3s for a few years now with no issue. 200whp. 4 cyl though. Don't have the same kinda torque. Had them left over from turbo car.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Decided that i am going to do whatever it takes to make this car go 12.99 so I can finally move on with my life lol.

Will run two fronts seats. Contradictory to what i have done to this car I can't claim it to be a street car or even a car if it can only have one person inside. 

So took out the window washer, lines and wiring. Same as with the central locking. Got 1.5kg's out. 

Made solid front crossmember mounts out of 2" steam pipe welded to the rail. Will get pictures later.


----------



## tucoramirez (Apr 8, 2007)

Pj1103 said:


> Last time i checked DRC wasnt making any more cams for vw's.


He still makes them. I seen some on ebay the other day.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

tucoramirez said:


> He still makes them. I seen some on ebay the other day.


Seen those. Around $500. Pretty reasonable price that's for sure. 

If anyone has any tips or see's anything that can be improved/done/tried let me know!


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Pictures crossmember mounts. Old rubber ones were horrid with solid front motor mount(shook violently rolling off clutch) Car is much better now.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Double post


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Grew some balls and removed the front sway bar the other day. Car still drives, so success. Haven't been able to notice a difference as it is really hard to turn even at speed. Think non p/s car standing still when you are doing 60mph + makes going fast around corners impossible.

First race day I can get to isn't till the tail end of may. So more prep work.

Ordered a cylinder head porting kit and some long carbide burrs. Going to pull the abv manifold and hack it out as well as the lower manifold and the exhaust manifolds. Might get the exhaust manifolds ceramic coated and heat wrap the downpipes; see how I feel. 

Pics for interest


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

It all started swapping spacers. Which i didn't even do. Cut the metal out from the other door, then said stuff it. Lets do the dash. 










Removed everything behind it. Got rid of the power windows loom and cut most of the radio loom out. 

going to remove all the abs wiring while the dash is out tomorrow. 

Saved a bit over 16kg's.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Finally got a chance to do the abs. In between the ****ty weather and other nonsense. 










Ended up being around 2kg's. Still has the speed sensors in the hubs.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Started removing some seam sealer, wire wheels I bought are useless so used a chisel was bit of a pain but not the worst. Little corner section behind the tail light is all I done and there was about 0.5kg's rest of the car and probably get 2.5kg's. 

Tps wiring finally split so I need to cut and solder that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Got these real cheap. Think the 26" tyre is a bit to big though..


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Standalone time! Thanks to Paul.


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Fancy!!


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Done this to add a phenloic spacer

And to port the lower intake and redo the exhaust manifolds.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

New graph.








Old for comparison.

Pain in the arse there isn't one on new sheet.

It made a whopping 2.5kw more than a standard ecu! Surely this could now prove that chips don't do anything..

Guessing just conservative tune, judging by how reserved the dude is. Does go a bit harder in the middle. Spins 1st, 2nd and 3rd when planting it mid gear. 

Needs touching up a bit cause the idle fluctuates a bit and when just tapping the throttle to take of it just hesitates and dies.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Lost motivation with the car again. Still slowly chipping away and things. Going to put in a mtx-l wideband tomorrow so i can tune it myself, then going to go e85. Going to make it to the track soon hopefully. It's just so far away. 

Started piecing together a turbo setup for it. Whether or not that happens we'll see. 


Turning with no power steering is still a bitch at speed. Anyone got tips or is this how it is?


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Fixed exhaust leak and hooked up a wide band. Confirmed what i 'thought' about some of the drivability issues. Managed to make it pretty normal. Still crusing about 20% throttle it'll go super lean so need to richen it up a bit so it's not so irratic. 

Had a good long cruise today ~150km dusted p plater in a 5.7l powerhouse(lel) vy. 

Best of all didn't get defected. Lovin it


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

This is what is in my intake tube without a pcv valve.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Racing next sunday.










Installed schrick and a ported obd2 tb.










Made it ugly. 
Removed spoiler.
Raised it to fit 205/50 radials
Cut bumper cause honda.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

[email protected]

2nd pass ever in a fwd on a strip. Pretty stoked. 205/50 mickey et's are way to small just spun all first no matter what and 2nd alot. 

Car weighed 2376lbs with me in it (165lbs)

Don't know how you blokes get lighter cause there is nothing in my car and its got lexan etc


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qqRd6VL83CQ&feature=youtu.be

Few runs. Tps cut out is brutal


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

2376 is pretty light. Mine was 2550 at the lightest I ran it. 

103mph should get you close to 13.40 

I like the 225/50 bfgs the best out of all the appropriate sized drag radials.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Going off general rule of thumb for 60ft. It should have a low 13 in it with even a 2.0 60ft. 

The clutch i found hard to slip. With the new setup I'm thinking of trying a oem disc with the HD pressure plate


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)




----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Hey hey, missed this. Good stuff.

4 lug would be the big piece of weight you're still hanging onto. You'd need to invest in decent axles though IMO.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

root beer said:


> Hey hey, missed this. Good stuff.
> 
> 4 lug would be the big piece of weight you're still hanging onto. You'd need to invest in decent axles though IMO.


I'm building a 2dr with all the oem lightweight stuff plus a R32 motor (sorry)

DSS axles are on the cards. I don't know what level to get though. Any thoughts?


----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Stage 3's will do it. 

Only reason I never had a newer/bigger motor was keeping it budget. At some point it's just tiring driving around a lack of power.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Cool. I figured the inner drive flanges would be over kill/ more expensive then the motor i picked up. 

How worthwhile is swapping 3rd gear? 

Enough 24v talk. 

got myself some skinnies to fit my tiny 22" tyres too. Got a sheet of lexan to make up a window for the gutted hatch that i have and about to pull the trigger on a battery. 

Should be nearly 75lbs lighter with those. 

Yet to buy tyres but plenty of stock around. 

I'm hoping i can make it onto the radial list. 13.19 (Sorry paul!)


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Knock me off of there. I need more motivation!


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Knock me off of there. I need more motivation!


Motivation after wiring loom. 

I might just keep getting you to make looms so you can't race


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Took vr for last drive on the street today. Flogged the crap out of it for old times sake.

Tried launching a few times. 

When getting a good slip the rpm's just cut at 6k indicated. (Not hitting limiter) 

When spinning the tyres it'll happily rev out till 7500.


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

You have logs of that? Maybe a setting.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

need_a_VR6 said:


> You have logs of that? Maybe a setting.


I do not. I will try get some for you.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Going to have one last crack before i strip it down for scrapping/reincarnation. 

Race day is the 30th

Got 225/50 mickey et's. 
Hopefully get skinnies sorted too. 
Have to cut a rear hatch window from lexan. 
And install a motorcycle battery i have. 

Should be ~75lbs lighter and proper grip.

13.19!!


----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Awesome, I'm glad you're headed out again on those tires. Can't wait to hear your results.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

root beer said:


> Awesome, I'm glad you're headed out again on those tires. Can't wait to hear your results.


You need to get out soon. I'm keen to here how you're going with the nitrous.

Getting a megasquirt yet?


----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

I just bought what i need to get back on the track without spray. All the trans bearings, comp clutch stg4 unsprung 6 puck, new alum flywheel, pinion brace, new m&h 22x8x13. Solenoids for a wet shot will get ordered after i figure out how to drive on real tires again. I'd say i'll be out in a month shooting for a 13.0 or a .99

No computer for me yet.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

root beer said:


> I just bought what i need to get back on the track without spray. All the trans bearings, comp clutch stg4 unsprung 6 puck, new alum flywheel, pinion brace, new m&h 22x8x13. Solenoids for a wet shot will get ordered after i figure out how to drive on real tires again. I'd say i'll be out in a month shooting for a 13.0 or a .99
> 
> No computer for me yet.


How are the Competition Clutches doing? Dealer here as guaranteed/warrantied me for a stage 4 unit for 6 months/50 passes.. yet to purchase but. 
Sounds solid. Will be watching you then.

Put in a couple hours. 

Got hatch sorted. A small motorbike battery (2.9kg) and removed some other unnecessary items. Still 100% streetable though. 

Ended up being dead on 76lbs. Only body things to do would be carbon hood and fiberglass guards/doors. 

I'm feeling confident!


----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

I've had the same comp stg 3/Kevlar disk since my black car was making clean passes. I'm just now replacing it.

Sounds great man. Weight is the only thing on the car that gets MORE impactful with every pound.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Sick! Will definitely try them then.










New hatch in place.










Ghetto tie down.


----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Looks badass.

I think you'd like an o2j shifter to try out. I kept a diesel geek o2a shifter in my car for so long because i could still make it happen for the mostpart. When i finally went to a o2j stuff with solid bushings, i knew immediately it was time to sell the o2a stuff. Such a great difference imo.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

I have 3mm plate welded to the ends of the cables so there is no bushings in the setup. I'll get a video of the throw. It's actually good. The sigma shifters I've driven were to brutal for I.

Got the new DR's!









Rain just needs to stop


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Knock me off of there. I need more motivation!


Sorry man.



















I couldn't do it 

Track had a few oil downs later in the day so was hit and miss with spinning or not. 

Got to 2.038 60ft's 225/50 et streets at 14psi cold. Got some slipping happening but just didn't have the god foot on the day.

13.251 @ 105.96mph 2.12x 60ft


----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Badass! Nice PR! 

12 second range with a tire swap.


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Man, you were >< to taking my dr time out. Probably a little more clutch slip in 1st would have done it.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

I was slipping for maybe 30ft then popping off, a few times it wheel hopped. Was going from 4k.


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

I used to launch the 225bfgs around 4k but I'd slip it till 5k-5500 or so then again on the 1-2 shift to keep it from spinning again. Netted lots of low 1.9 and a few 1.8s that way.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

need_a_VR6 said:


> I used to launch the 225bfgs around 4k but I'd slip it till 5k-5500 or so then again on the 1-2 shift to keep it from spinning again. Netted lots of low 1.9 and a few 1.8s that way.


raceshop head or 262's and mk4 hg?


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

All three for the 13.2 pass. Never ran it on dr with the 268s


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

need_a_VR6 said:


> All three for the 13.2 pass. Never ran it on dr with the 268s


So your 12 second diy thread package just DR's? 
Doesnt make me feel so bad now.


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

12sec thread was on slicks, the 13s thread was on reg street tires, and got it down to the 13.2 on the 225s. I still have a set for the nee car just in case.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Yeah that's what i mean.

I'm not going to race this setup again. Space/time are causing to many problems. 

Should be a good indicator that I'll be able to go 12's with the 24v on radials.


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Should be no problem for the 24v.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Almost 2 year bump!

Time flies when not playing with VW's!

Well VR6 lust never went away so I'm back at it.

Got myself a cheap as hell 3 door 1.8 CL power house (down under VR6's only came in the 5 door) 









At first I was just going to have to a bit of a cruiser. Full VR interior with Jahre belts and Handbrake (something I've always wanted but could never justify the cost)

















Next was a new diff. I had put my Peloquin into my VR6 swapped MK2.









This is an UBER rare Gemini LSD. With their ultra lightweight magnesium drive flanges

















Googling this LSD returns about 5 results from the late 90's period. Apparently they are pretty brutal, can't wait to find out!

Next on the list was suspension bushings!








Poly front, R32 rear for a forgiving ride.
As well as a Black series Steering rack bushing from Powerflex









I had my solid cross member bushings left over from my OG VR6. So gave the lot a lick of paint for some extra points.

















Trying to do things 'right' but on a budget, I bought some polyurethane rod off eBay and cut and drilled to suit as engine mounts.








10mm higher cut than stock to raise the sump up, as VW's are meant to be low as hell! 

It was at this stage I got passed thinking of having a good cruiser and just wanted a flat out 12 second street car, that was still pretty tame.

So I removed the sandbags, but have left all the sounding deadening, rubber mat on the firewall as well as everything behind the dash. Heater, blower etc. However it does not have a/c or p/s.

Got myself a cheap dodgy SRI, in my mind hopefully the critical piece to gain a much higher powerband.
It has a standard 130k mile bottom end, with a refreshed stock head. (No porting valve work etc)










Second hand TT276's (regret this now wish i had got the 288!!)









Alloy rad with some fans stuck on the back to clean up the bay, ended up weighing exactly the same as the stock setup, but lost the fcm and wiring. 









Alloy valve cover with 2x monster 3/4" breather ports for a joke!









034 Fuel rail, with a BBM fuel reg adapter.
This was such a pain trying to track down a rail, then getting fittings to match. Tried getting from various sources but wait times/availability was excessive.
Some quick rubber hose fuel lines and it's sorted.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

So basically where the car sits now is that.

The tensioner is bleeding off heaps when cranking. As a result it has jumped a tooth. 

Waiting on an oem tensioner and hopefully avoid any issues when re timing and getting it sorted out.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

So after waiting 2 months for the new OEM tensioner to show up. I admitted defeat and bought the Schimmel Manual Tensioner. So far it has been faultless. But haven't revved the motor over 3.5k, so time will tell.









Finally the car runs. Still needs some exhaust and intake work but it is 98% complete.

After 5 odd years of always pipe dreaming about cool SRI manifolds. One finally came up cheap enough for me to justify purchasing. Insert SCHIMMEL!










Now, it isn't ideally what i wanted in a SRI, really short runners, no runner compensation etc. But for the purpose of peak RPM power, they seem to do the job, plus it was complete in black, with the elbow, fuel rail and cable mount. No more dodgy cable ties










Potato photo of it in there. Filter is for pisstake. But might actually end up staying that way if I don't pull my finger out to make a proper intake pipe. 










Rolled the guards and lowered it. 16x8 +12 sitting flush in front.










16x8 +5 swallowed up in the rear, thanks to a couple of washers behind the stub axles.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Tinkering tinkering. 










Mounted catch can.
Ran the 3/4" lines for it.
Used left over braided sleeve as ignition lead holder. 
Had my mate weld up a 3" intake pipe. 
Getting towards completion. 

Just need to paint heat shield for the exhaust manifolds.
Plumb in the Nitrous kit.
Figure out where I'm putting the battery. 
And decide on what fuel (E85 or 98) and if I use freshly cleaned ID1000 injectors or stock 200k old injectors..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Couple little more tidy up's. 

I am starting to think I just create work to avoid having it run, because I know in reality it will break alot.

Anyway.

Drilled and tapped the intake pipe for the Nitrous Fogger. 










I wasn't happy with how some of the coolant hoses sat, one of them actually interfered with the shifter mechanism so I got one of the Relocation Reservoirs.










This one by passes the heater core, which will likely leak after not experiencing hot water for so long.

I was shocked at the amount of hoses that can be removed when installing these things!









I was able to use some of the hose kit to plumb it up, need a U shaped bend off the thermostat housing to go under the two main hoses, as well as a 90 for the fitting off the top of the head. 









Chopped off a excess bit of hose.








And plugged with a shiny blue fitting, left over from the old fuel rail.

I also moved a bunch of the grounds and loom from the front side of the coilpack, to underneath the new reservoir. 

I 'think' I've decided to mount the battery under neath the passenger seat. So will buy some fat cable to relocate that this weekend.

Ideally I wanted to keep it over the front wheels to help with traction. But between the catch can and the giant air filter I am running. There is just not enough space left behind the bumper and I feel slightly uncomfortable having it sit under the fuel lines on the driver's side of the engine bay.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Last few touch up’s before it goes to the tuner’s on the 17th

Rattle can ‘ceramic’ coated the heat shield








Finished up the bottle heater wiring and the nitrous button. Cable tied so I can remove it when not in use








I used the oem A/C button as the master switch for the system.
















Made a new positive cable to remove battery under the passenger seat. Yet to make a mount but will be ok for now.








Opted for the fresh ID1000’s, should be better than dirty oem one’s even just on 98.









And almost finally, A finished engine bay!








All it needs is a clean and a purge solenoid hidden behind the strut tower when it arrives this week hopefully.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Got the car tuned in December. Didn’t go really to plan however.

Ended up being on a cracking 45 degree day, nitrous solenoids weren’t working and the throttle cable was playing up. 

All that aside it still punched out 130kw, and carried all the way out to 7400rpm. Not bad for a stock head 12v! 










I got over it a bit, but slowly fixed some of the issues, it has no issue spinning the Yokohama S.Drives I’ve got on it so I’m not seeing much point fixing the nitrous stuff. But will be going back to the dyno to clean up up the tune (swapped out the stock downpipes for my 2” custom downpipes that were on a buddies car. So will pick up a chunk of torque and some more kw’s.

Couple potato cam photo’s of how it’s looking out of the driveway. 











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Took a new car and new engine. But finally went 12’s in a MK3 





















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ajfrassetto (May 17, 2017)

HaydenVR6 said:


> Took a new car and new engine. But finally went 12’s in a MK3
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Get that 60 down and its easily an 11 second car! Whats the details on this one? Slicks, or still on the radials?


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Ajfrassetto said:


> Get that 60 down and its easily an 11 second car! Whats the details on this one? Slicks, or still on the radials?


Still on the radials. 

I’ve made some weight changes and will be heading back out soon. Seat time alone is worth a high 11. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ajfrassetto (May 17, 2017)

HaydenVR6 said:


> Still on the radials.
> 
> I’ve made some weight changes and will be heading back out soon. Seat time alone is worth a high 11.
> 
> ...


oh yea. get the car to 60 better and its in the 11s. In theory, at least RWD world, radials are faster than a slick. uses less energy to get the tire moving, and unlike a slick, you dont have wheel speed so you are not wasting all that energy to get wheel speed. . you cant spin a radial. once it spins your done. Theoretically speaking. In the fwd world it is very hard to keep the tire planted, thats why everyone runs a slick. Plus radials are hard on parts. All that said, I love the idea of running a radial. Its a challange, props to you and keep gunning at it.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Ajfrassetto said:


> oh yea. get the car to 60 better and its in the 11s. In theory, at least RWD world, radials are faster than a slick. uses less energy to get the tire moving, and unlike a slick, you dont have wheel speed so you are not wasting all that energy to get wheel speed. . you cant spin a radial. once it spins your done. Theoretically speaking. In the fwd world it is very hard to keep the tire planted, thats why everyone runs a slick. Plus radials are hard on parts. All that said, I love the idea of running a radial. Its a challange, props to you and keep gunning at it.


24.5x8x13’s got delivered yesterday. Will take both pairs next time I go down, then make the switch to slicks only. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Hopefully these will perk it up a bit! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ajfrassetto (May 17, 2017)

HaydenVR6 said:


> Hopefully these will perk it up a bit!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hell yea! How big are those throttle bodies?

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Ajfrassetto said:


> Hell yea! How big are those throttle bodies?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk


60mm job. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ajfrassetto (May 17, 2017)

HaydenVR6 said:


> 60mm job.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I love it. 

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Done a couple things after work this week.

Front bumper skin. Cause I can’t afford a $12,000 front end










Removed some unnecessary metal from the rear of the car









Started and finished making brake lines for the front calipers (got dark before I finished the other two lines to get a picture) 









And the new rear brake kit arrived today. Pretty excited about getting this kit on. Total weight is about 6.5kg! 










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Looking more 'murrican

Mind the ounces, the pounds mind themselves.


----------



## Ajfrassetto (May 17, 2017)

HaydenVR6 said:


> Done a couple things after work this week.
> 
> Front bumper skin. Cause I can’t afford a $12,000 front end
> 
> ...


My suggestion to you, since you pulled all the weight out of the rear, im assuming that you are no longer going to drive on the street? i would eliminate the rear brakes. Most fwd cars dont even run rears. If you get on them hard in the shut down, it will lock up the rears and spin around.


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Or put the rears on staging only and fronts pedal only. Stupid rules say 4 wheel brakes but don't say how


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Ajfrassetto said:


> My suggestion to you, since you pulled all the weight out of the rear, im assuming that you are no longer going to drive on the street? i would eliminate the rear brakes. Most fwd cars dont even run rears. If you get on them hard in the shut down, it will lock up the rears and spin around.


The rears will be plumbed to a hydro brake, front brakes only plumbed to the pedal. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ajfrassetto (May 17, 2017)

HaydenVR6 said:


> The rears will be plumbed to a hydro brake, front brakes only plumbed to the pedal.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





HaydenVR6 said:


> The rears will be plumbed to a hydro brake, front brakes only plumbed to the pedal.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 Good deal.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Step 1 to getting Honda brakes on a VW



















Test fit to make sure all is lining up. 

Getting end plates and shock mounts laser cut at the moment to weld on. 

All up looks like it’s going to be around 19KG lighter than the factory beam.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ajfrassetto (May 17, 2017)

HaydenVR6 said:


> Step 1 to getting Honda brakes on a VW
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I like this A LOT! Have been wanting to do something along these lines, and running light weight rear brakes. Keep up the work!


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Finally got around to finalising the rear beam. 










Lick of paint and put it in the car









Unfortunately I was sent the incorrect wheel bearings so wasn’t able to put the brake kit on and get it back on the ground. 

Hopefully next weekend. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Vdubtecher (Jul 16, 2017)

Nice work! That beam is beautiful! 

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Got the correct hubs in so was able to get all the rear end stuff done. Including plumbing the staging brake in

















I over measured the length for the arms on the rear beam, so the wheel base has been increased by a fair bit. 









Staging brake and shifter will be bolted this 4mm plate which I’ll fold up and weld into place.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Pushed the car out onto flat ground to see how it is sitting etc.









Can really see the wheelbase extension now.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ajfrassetto (May 17, 2017)

HaydenVR6 said:


> Pushed the car out onto flat ground to see how it is sitting etc.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Im really digging this rear wheel setup with the beam. Making the rear wheel base longer is not exactly a bad thing, but actually a good thing. Think of it as a pivot point. When the car leaves, The angle of the shock will actually help keep the front end planted. What are your eventual goals with the build?


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Ajfrassetto said:


> Im really digging this rear wheel setup with the beam. What are your eventual goals with the build?


I’m pretty happy with it, for a mostly winged/rough measured piece it came together well. I do need to get MK1/6N shocks as it’s to light in the back to compress the MK3 shocks enough to be sitting on the spring (no helpers and 180mm long) 

I have no real end goal, mostly to avoid disappointment. 
There’s a sportsman style race series here that has 9 rounds per season - would like to get involved in that do some competitive racing although would be losing all the time as the class structures are suited to big engine RWD cars.

ET goal - I’d love to say run a 9 in a few years when it’s got all the bits on it. At this stage just happy to chip away at the extremely popular MK7 R times here. Low 11’s/high 10’s


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ajfrassetto (May 17, 2017)

HaydenVR6 said:


> I’m pretty happy with it, for a mostly winged/rough measured piece it came together well. I do need to get MK1/6N shocks as it’s to light in the back to compress the MK3 shocks enough to be sitting on the spring (no helpers and 180mm long)
> 
> I have no real end goal, mostly to avoid disappointment.
> There’s a sportsman style race series here that has 9 rounds per season - would like to get involved in that do some competitive racing although would be losing all the time as the class structures are suited to big engine RWD cars.
> ...


Going to stay with an all motor 12v?


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Ajfrassetto said:


> Going to stay with an all motor 12v?


Old thread. New car - it’s a 3.6


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ajfrassetto (May 17, 2017)

HaydenVR6 said:


> Old thread. New car - it’s a 3.6
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





HaydenVR6 said:


> Old thread. New car - it’s a 3.6
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hell yea!


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Attempted to bleed brakes on the weekend. Found out that a lot of the connections leaked - I had my suspicions because of a crap flaring tool, but thought they would still be ok. I was wrong. So redid almost all of the flares.

Before











After










My initial tool didn’t give a good first ‘bubbling’ step, so was more like a ‘single’ flare. 


Photo less updates:

I then stripped out more wiring (headlights, taillights and anything else that wasn’t critical) 

Put the dash back in, and removed the front front sway bar. 
Chopped out some metal in the headlight area’s. 
Test fitted some of the power steering lines, still need to figure out where I will mount the reservoir. 
Fixed the crap wheel alignment.
Fitted the correct hub rings and lug nuts for the Honda rear end. 
Also started going through and replacing the OEM bolts with lightweight Porsche sourced alternatives. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Soooo, reflare of brake likes was a bit of a fail again. So got some stainless line, remade them all again and then paid a shop to flare them properly. Much happier with them now, and shouldn’t get corroded like the copper line did almost instantly. 

I got the rear windows out and installed the tinted lexan windows - my new favourite thing. Can’t even tell (besides the rivets) that they aren’t glass. 










I attempted to carbon clean but don’t quite have the correct end on the gun for the blaster, so stopped that and decided to try the ITB’s on



















Would even work with stock radiator if someone was so inclined! 











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ajfrassetto (May 17, 2017)

HaydenVR6 said:


> Soooo, reflare of brake likes was a bit of a fail again. So got some stainless line, remade them all again and then paid a shop to flare them properly. Much happier with them now, and shouldn’t get corroded like the copper line did almost instantly.
> 
> I got the rear windows out and installed the tinted lexan windows - my new favourite thing. Can’t even tell (besides the rivets) that they aren’t glass.
> 
> ...


Any updates?


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Ajfrassetto said:


> Any updates?


Unfortunately not quite yet.

I’ve just been organising and collecting material in preparation for a day at the fabricators. 

New front cross member/engine mount
Bumper mounts
Belly pan
Fuel cell
Side skirts
Reservoir mounts
Radiator mounts

Hopefully get it done in the next week or two


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

No bueno on fabrication day. 

But have done a couple little things.

First off, lightweight crank pulley, removes a huge amount of weight from the oem pulley










And got the slicks mounted up to get an idea of where some frame work can go for the bumper/fuel cell mounts











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ajfrassetto (May 17, 2017)

HaydenVR6 said:


> No bueno on fabrication day.
> 
> But have done a couple little things.
> 
> ...


Check out my setup. I am running a Prayoonto Racing fuel cell up front. I put it on the pass side, in front of the tire. Works pretty well. I fit the 24.5x9 m/t with stock fenders, had to roll them a bit and jack the car up but they did fit with a 20mm spacer.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Ajfrassetto said:


> Check out my setup. I am running a Prayoonto Racing fuel cell up front. I put it on the pass side, in front of the tire. Works pretty well. I fit the 24.5x9 m/t with stock fenders, had to roll them a bit and jack the car up but they did fit with a 20mm spacer.


I did see them, as well as the Speed Factory cells. But after conversion and shipping, they end up being $1000AUD and still need to be modified. 

Materials, including fittings has cost $240AUD, will get a belly pan and side skirts out of the sheet of aluminium as well.


I just need to be patient as I can’t justify leaving a welder and shop equipment out in the weather.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ajfrassetto (May 17, 2017)

HaydenVR6 said:


> I did see them, as well as the Speed Factory cells. But after conversion and shipping, they end up being $1000AUD and still need to be modified.
> 
> Materials, including fittings has cost $240AUD, will get a belly pan and side skirts out of the sheet of aluminium as well.
> 
> ...


Shew. I forgot about the shipping overseas, thats wild. Yea when i talked to Norris at Prayoonto, i just had him make the fuel cell, but then didnt weld any tabs on it because they had the tabs welded on to go on the drivers side. I mocked it up for the pass side then welded tabs on to mount there.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Got all the fabrication stuff done over the last little while.

Dropped some of it off to be powder coated. The rest in aluminium will just stay as is.










Sneak peek of the front end with the new fuel cell.

The shifter and handbrake plate was welded into the car for ease/strength. This has just been rust proofed for now. 

Eventually when the car gets fully stripped this will all be painted properly.










In the meantime. I’ve gone through every nut and bolt to check and mark tight, borrowed the wot box from the R32 so can at least have some sort of launch rpm assist on the slicks and some other general bits and pieces.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Few more bits and pieces done. Wotbox has been a little bit of a hassle; doesn’t want to work with the ECU. So not sure if I’ll be able to work around it not.

Reassembled the front crossmember and bumper mounts, put in the power steering pump and wired up, radiator fan wired up, fixed a split injector o ring i found out about this morning when I started it. 











Fabricated front engine mount










Electric power steering pump hiding away










Terminated ends, switched power in the deutsch connector, that goes into the switch panel inside










Passenger side bumper mount and backside of fuel cell










Mismatched radiator hoses, but was what I had laying around.










All together 










Annnnd, made these mirror deletes out of a sheet of carbon. Will be making a centre fascia/switch panel out of the same sheet.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Been a bit slack of late, travelling a bit, then when I’m home it’s always raining.

Finally got a decent weekend to finalise the switch panel and other miscellaneous jobs. Chucked the slicks on, filled up power steering reservoir and put the car down in the ground. Quick drive around to test the steering under load and all good to report. 




















Picked up a weekender/fun car as a non runner, I have got that mostly sorted as well (alternator not charging at present) but otherwise running and driving.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Another day, another bunch of jobs ticked off the list.

New battery mount to suit the new lithium battery. Total weight of the new setup 1.5kg vs the previous setup of 10.2kg 









Put a fire extinguisher on the tunnel for quick access, hopefully never need to use it.









Switch panel finished up. Budget switch box/touch pad.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

And after putting it off for ages. Finally got back to the track today to make some passes.

First pass ended up being the best.

11.881 @118.95 MPH










3.6 swapped MK3 11.88 @118MPH - YouTube

Go pro suction mount wasn’t cooperating so no in car footage this time around.

Few little things to attend to, radiator drain plug started leaking. Traction still a massive issue. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Not a bad first day!


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Not a bad first day!


Thank you. 

With more practice and some track prep I think low 11’s are possible with current set up. 

Looking to switch to a 13x9/24.5x9 wheel and tyre combination before next trip. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Get it to 60' and you are running on my heels already.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Click for crap driving 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Another long time dream came true. To have composite panels. 

Fit up is pretty damn good. Definitely needs some body work before paint too. But one day in 10 years time perhaps.

So we’ve got, fibreglass guards (30mm wider), bonnet, hatch and doors! 

Weight loss numbers below
Bonnet - 9kg 
Guards - 1.5kg each
Hatch - 4kg (compared to a gutted hatch)
Doors - 13.5KG each 

~43kg gone! I don’t think this will get it to 799kg, but might be able to chop some weight out soon.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ajfrassetto (May 17, 2017)

HaydenVR6 said:


> Another long time dream came true. To have composite panels.
> 
> Fit up is pretty damn good. Definitely needs some body work before paint too. But one day in 10 years time perhaps.
> 
> ...


Whose fiberglass parts did you get?


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

Ajfrassetto said:


> Whose fiberglass parts did you get?


German company called “timeless cardesign”


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ajfrassetto (May 17, 2017)

HaydenVR6 said:


> German company called “timeless cardesign”
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


How was it dealing with them? Im sure getting stuff to the States are a little different.


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Not sure if Australia is easier or harder.


----------



## HaydenVR6 (Jul 21, 2011)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Not sure if Australia is easier or harder.


Definitely harder. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------

