# Broken Sleeve on Electrical Harness leading to Trunk Lid - How to fix? [TOC, Photos done]



## pilgrim7777 (Oct 27, 2004)

----------------------------
*AN IMPORTANT WARNING!!!*
As Terence notes below, the separation of the protective conduit (tube) from the ball at the bottom is not by itself a serious problem. However, it can easily lead to a *BROKEN REAR WINDOW* if people who open and close the trunk lid (this means both the driver and service technicians at the dealership) are not very careful when they close the trunk lid.
If the separated conduit gets jammed on the forward edge of the trunk aperture, it will snap forward with considerable force when the trunk lid closes, and this usually results in a broken rear window.
So, please, if you let anyone else drive your car (or, you take it to the dealership for service or repair) when you have a separated conduit, *PLEASE MAKE SURE EVERYONE KNOWS ABOUT THIS RISK!*
There are a couple of links further down this discussion that lead to reports of broken windows that can be directly attributed to a separated conduit. In each case, the service staff at the VW dealership unintentionally broke the rear window of the car.

Michael
--------------------------

A not a very serious problem, the cable harness cover has broken away from the holder.First reported to the dealer on the 07/02/2005 said six weeks to order harness, a week to fix. This harness has to run the whole length of the car then connected/wired in, slightly puzzled as I would have expected this to be plug connector to multiple plug connectors. I haven't seen the cable yet so I don't know.



















































_Modified by PanEuropean at 4:14 PM 8-7-2009_


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## pilgrim7777 (Oct 27, 2004)

*Re: First claim warranty (Jack Orr)*

I agree on the surface it looks easy however on close inspection and the removal of the inner truck casing.Its not quite the case however any advice would be welcome.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: First claim warranty (pilgrim7777)*

Hi Terence:
There is a technical bulletin out from VW that provides additional guidance (meaning, additional to what is contained in the repair manual) concerning replacement of that wiring harness.
For some unknown reason, my VW dealer has one of those harnesses in his dealer stock - I was looking at it the other day. I will try and take some pictures of it and post them here. I'll also see if I can get a copy of the technical bulletin for you.
My Phaeton has to go in for a minor repair next week - the J605 module that operates the power trunk opening and closing feature has died. I'll try to get some pictures of how all the wires from this harness run when the Phaeton technician replaces that module.
Michael


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## pilgrim7777 (Oct 27, 2004)

*Re: First claim warranty (PanEuropean)*

It happened whilst opening the trunk, I think the braided outer sheath was catching on the inside of the casing. My trunk is manual version.The danger is the cables kink as it closes and could split and short out.

Thanks Michael, I look forward to seeing that. I think my dealer is nervous as only three have been sold and the experience is light. :thumbup:


_Modified by pilgrim7777 at 2:33 PM 3-18-2005_


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: First claim warranty (pilgrim7777)*

OK Terence, tell your dealer to hang on for a few days, and I will make a complete post about how to replace that cable assembly, and put it up on the BB here. Give me until about mid next week.
Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: First claim warranty (AusSalzburg)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Werner* »_I would wrap factory VW Felt tape around it and not worry about it. 

Hi Werner:
That idea makes sense on the face of it, but the problem is that there is a retraction mechanism in the trunk lid - that complete cable 'rolls up' into the trunk lid when you close the lid. Which means that the felt wrapping might not survive the retraction cycles.
When I look at the spare part for this assembly that my dealer has in his stock, I am going to see if it appears possible to re-attach the woven sheath to the ferrule on the lower end. My first guess is that this could probably be done once tension was removed from the cable bundle, and if it can be done, that might be the fastest, simplest, and best way of solving the problem. It is a major job to replace that cable assembly, although I don't think it is a week of work. Maybe more like a day and a half. I'll let you know next week - it is possible I might have to have that assembly replaced on my car as part of the work needed to fix my servo operated boot lid.
Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: First claim warranty (pilgrim7777)*

Hi Terence:

When I was at my VW dealer having them replace the trunk lid control module on Friday (How to replace the J605 Trunk Lid Control Module), the parts department manager and I made an investigation of the wiring harness for the trunk lid. By good fortune, my dealer happens to have a complete wiring harness in stock. Here is what we found:


*1)* The complete harness is a monster assembly. As you can see from the picture below, this is a very big wiring harness, if you replace the entire harness, then you have to run wires all the way up to the front of the car.

*Photo of Complete Wiring Harness for Trunk Lid*









*Part Number for Complete Harness*










*2)* It is possible to order the harness in sections. Volkswagen of America has put out a Technical Bulletin (97-04-07, dated November 9, 2004) explaining that 'partial harnesses' are available in case of exactly the problem that you have encountered. The part numbers for the partial harnesses are 3D1 970 053 AH for Phaetons without the power operated trunk feature (without the button on the trunk lid lip to power the lid closed), and 3D1 970 053 AJ for Phaetons with the power operated trunk lid (Phaetons with production code *4E7* incorporated at build).

These partial harnesses include only the first 50 cm of the wires that you see in the lower portion of the photo above. What the technician does is to replace the entire portion of the harness that goes in the trunk lid itself, including the sleeve that you are having the problem with, and then he or she cuts the existing harness off, and splices the new harness in just after the point where the harness enters the body of the car - in other words, just after the point where the sleeve on your harness broke.

I cannot post a copy of the technical bulletin here on the BB because of copyright restrictions from VW of A, but I can email you a copy to give to your Phaeton tech, in case the VW of A bulletins are not promulgated outside of North America.

*3)* What we did discover, which was quite interesting, is that the sleeve with the woven cover - the part that separated on your car - is independent of the wires themselves. In other words, there is a black plastic tube protecting the wires - sort of like a condom - and then a woven sleeve over the plastic tube, just to make it look nice. We both think that you should be able to re-attach the plastic tube and the sleeve to the round ferrule at the bottom without any difficulty, just using a little bit of glue. If you can do this, it will save both you and your Phaeton technician a whole pile of electrical work.

Here is our theory: If you remove the trunk lid liner (see this post for instructions: OEM Warning Triangle in Trunk Lid Retrofit), then physically remove (loosen) the large rectangular box that the wires, protective tube, and sleeve roll up into - this for the purpose of relieving tension on the tube - then it should be very simple for you or your technician to just stick the plastic tube and the sleeve back into the round ferrule. All you will have to do is figure out what kind of plastic the protective tube is made of, so you can choose the correct adhesive to re-fasten the tube and sleeve to the ferrule. My guess is that it is some form of ABS plastic, but I don't know for sure. If you can wait a few days, I can ask one of our 'Phaeton Enthusiast friends' in Dresden to find out exactly what the plastic is, and exactly how the tube and ferrule are attached together during the manufacturing process.

This is what I would try to do first if it was my car - a 20 minute restoration with a dab of glue is, in my opinion, a much less invasive intervention that cutting a 20 wire harness and splicing it back together again. Below are some pictures that might help you and your Phaeton technician come to a decision about how to proceed. Let us all know how it goes. If your technician is willing to take some pictures of the work he does, to contribute to our body of knowledge on this subject, that would be great.

Michael


*Close-up of tube and sleeve where they enter the ferrule*


















*Detail of protective tube with sleeve over it*
What is most interesting to note here - we did not discover this until we had this harness out on the countertop - is that there is NO TENSION on the protective tube and sleeve, if the large box on the left side of the photo is not attached to the car. The tube and sleeve can move independently of the wire bundle, as you discovered when the bottom end of your tube and sleeve became detached. This is why we think it would be most practical to just remove the rectangular box from the car (loosen it from its mountings), then slide the tube and sleeve back into the ferrule and glue them there.









*How the upper part of the harness (the rectangular box) attaches to the trunk lid*
As you can see, there are only three bolts that hold the rectangular plastic box onto the trunk lid. If these are removed, the box can be lowered slightly, relieving the tension on the tube and sleeve enough to allow the tube and sleeve to be re-positioned back into the ferrule.


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## Paldi (Sep 4, 2004)

Looks like the ferrule could also be removed, glued back to the tube -and then reset to the body trim when the glue is dry.



_Modified by Paldi at 2:27 PM 3-16-2005_


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (Paldi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Paldi* »_Looks like the ferrule could also be removed, glued back to the woven sleeve - and then reset to the body trim when the glue is dry.

No, we tried removing the ferrule from the bracket that it sits in, and the bracket is not at all flexible. It's in there to stay - good thing, too, considering the problems that could arise if it ever popped out.
Michael


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## pilgrim7777 (Oct 27, 2004)

*Re: First claim warranty (PanEuropean)*

Great post Michael, I was beginning to to think this could be a problem, I agree with trying to glue back the the tube and the braiding. When I first looked at the situation the braiding had bunched up inside the truck lining. I have been off base so I haven't talked to the technician yet, frankly the thought of splicing those wires is not an acceptable solution to me. Unfortunately I am pushed for time over next week or so. However I will report back and let you know how things work out, many thanks to you all.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: First claim warranty (pilgrim7777)*

OK, glad you like the idea, in the meantime I will ask some Phaeton enthusiasts in Saxony to vet the idea, and if possible provide a specification for the glue to use.
Michael


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## pilgrim7777 (Oct 27, 2004)

*Re: First claim warranty (PanEuropean)*

Michael, spoke to the dealer and put off the replacement of the harness. The general view was if it could be glued it would be a better solution all round. They have asked other sources and current suggestion something like Loctite super glue (Cyanoacrylate) I have yet to make other enquiries myself. Any views anybody?


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## Jack Orr (Mar 15, 2000)

*Re: First claim warranty (pilgrim7777)*

I use all kinds of glue in model building for my RR, the 'Raton & Overland' (HO scale). Little known is that CA is 'brittle'. It does hold tight, but a sharp rap will break it loose. I would think a glue that maintains some flexibility like a rubber cement would be better.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: First claim warranty (pilgrim7777)*

Terence:
Hang on a few days and we might be able to find out the specification of the glue used in the original manufacturing process. I have an inquiry in about this.
I do agree with Jack, I don't think cyanoacrylate would be a good choice. Besides the brittle issue that Jack mentioned, the stuff has no capability to act as a 'hole-filler'. If you want to bond two pieces of flat glass to each other, it is superb. But if you have the slightest gap between the objects to be bonded, it will fail as an adhesive.
Because the three plastic components involved (the protective tube, the sleeve, and the base fixture) all appear to be different plastic compositions, I think we should hang tight until we find out what VW recommends we use.
Michael


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## pilgrim7777 (Oct 27, 2004)

*Re: First claim warranty (pilgrim7777)*

Well, things have moved on at a pace, VW had advised against repair and could not recommend adhesive because of legal implications. Since then the cables had started to chafe quite badly. We have now had the harness installed, as recommended by the TSB, the the harness has been spliced into the harness just into the existing harness under the rear shelf. I was not able to see this take place or take any photographs. But my my own earlier investigations revealed some interesting observations. as shown below.

This shows damage incurred at sometime before delivery or when manufactured









Exposing further









I would imagine that the above would indicate some problem
This one shows the cables may have been catching inside, interesting the retraction is merely the action of closing the truck I had expected some sort of spring mechanism


















Fixed and no problems so far










It was disappointing to find there was evidence of a problem previously as the retaining clips for the trunk lining were bent and did not bed home properly. However its done and apart from the Technician having his head in the trunk for two days splicing the harness all is well.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: First claim warranty (pilgrim7777)*

Below is a copy of the Technical Bulletin (TB) number 97-04-07 that describes the repair kit that is available for the trunk lid wiring harness.

Please keep in mind that the existence of a TB about a particular subject does not, _ipso facto_, suggest that there is a problem with the part. In this particular case, VW introduced a 'wiring repair kit' for the trunk lid to save the technician from going to the trouble of replacing the entire harness that leads from the front of the car to the back of the car. Prior to the introduction of this repair kit, if the trunk lid harness needed to be replaced (for example, due to damage sustained in a rear end collision), the technician had to order the whole huge wiring harness for the car.

Although Terence did report a problem with the trunk lid harness on his car failing (above), this particular part had otherwise been generally quite troublefree and there is *NO NEED* to inspect it or give it any extra attention simply because VW has introduced a repair kit that contains 'half a harness' and published a TB to let the technicians know about it.

Michael


TSB 97-04-07.pdf


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: First claim warranty (bobschneider)*

*Archival Note:*
Before replacing the wiring harness for the trunk using the VAS kit as described above, please have a look at this post to learn what kind of problems can arise if the technician does not pay careful attention when installing the new harness: Microswitch behind Trunk Lid Logo (for opening power trunk) does not work
Michael


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## alera (Oct 2, 2007)

*Re: First claim warranty (PanEuropean)*

The w12 swb I am buying has the same problem as this....
They ordered the replacement harness and the wrong part turned up....
A couple of interesting points.....
They told me the repair is NOT convered by the Volkswagen Approved Used Car Warranty 
The cost of the replacement parts needed to effect the repair in the UK is £600+ vat (According to the dealer) labour is obviously extra on top of this... 
Glad I dont have to pay for it......I offered to take the car and have the work done under warranty at my local vw dealer but they are insistent its not covered under the approved warranty....


_Modified by alera at 5:51 AM 11-7-2007_


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## adamkodish (Mar 5, 2006)

*Re: First claim warranty (alera)*

I had mine replaced under warranty and I assume I have the 1 year approved used warranty, so your dealer sounds like they are making a false assertion.









_Quote, originally posted by *alera* »_
The repair is NOT convered by the Volkswagen Approved Used Car Warranty (in the UK anyway according to the dealer)


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## pilgrim7777 (Oct 27, 2004)

*Re: First claim warranty (alera)*

Hi as you have seen on my car above, all the work was carried out under warranty. I think somebody does not understand the issue if you have a problem with the dealer call the support centre on 0800 032 2278 and explain the problem they will talk to the dealer and hopefully sort it out. 


_Modified by pilgrim7777 at 12:47 PM 11-7-2007_


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## alera (Oct 2, 2007)

*Re: First claim warranty (pilgrim7777)*

Update, I spoke to customer services on the number you provided and they said it should be covered under the approved warranty.
However if the dealer is aware the defect is present the onus is on them to make the car good before it is sold (In effect they have purchased the car in that state and therefore cant claim back the cost of the warranty repair)
Technically I could take it to me local dealer and get the work done locally but the dealer selling the car wouldnt be following the rules letting it go out damaged by the sound of it... 
Question is am I hever actually going to get this car...I have been waiting 2 weeks already...

_Modified by alera at 5:51 AM 11-7-2007_


_Modified by alera at 9:44 AM 11-7-2007_


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## mbarrow67 (Dec 3, 2006)

Hi, I've just had the same thing fixed under warranty (2 years, 11 months after purchase date), no questions asked.
Beware though, it's covered by the standard 3 year VW warranty, but not the 1 year warranty that you get when buying a used car.


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## Stinky999 (Sep 14, 2006)

*I just noticed this on my car...*

I noticed this problem on my '04 V8 a couple weeks ago. I will be bringing it into the Autobarn in Evanston for it's 30K service very soon, so I will have them fix it while it's in. I'm going to assume that the Autobarn has probably repaired a few of these and should be able to get it right the first time. Naturally, if there is anyone out there who had one repaied at the Autobarn and it DID NOT work out fine, I would be interested in hearing about it.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: I just noticed this on my car... (Stinky999)*

I replaced the trunk harness on my car last month. It is one of those 'nuisance' kind of tasks that falls into the 'I wish I didn't have to do this' category.
Here are some suggestions to help you make the job easier for the staff at your dealership:
*1)* Make sure that the trunk is totally empty when you bring the car in. The technician will have to literally 'crawl into the trunk' to do the job. So, remove everything in the trunk and leave it at home.
*2)* Mention to the technician that the connector for the power operated trunk lid (if you have one) and the connector for the New Jersey Escape handle are the same shape, and located in the same place... therefore, to be careful to not confuse them when putting the harness back together. See this post for reference: Microswitch behind Trunk Lid Logo (for opening power trunk) does not work.
*3)* There are two different part numbers for the cable assembly - one for cars with a power operated trunk lid, and one for cars without. The difference is the size and shape of the connector that plugs into the back of the logo on the trunk lid. Suggest that the technician double-check this connector first, to make sure the correct harness was shipped, before doing any other disassembly.
I'll try to post some pictures of the replacement process later today.
Michael


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## stevieB (Jul 15, 2006)

i went to sidlow Gatwick yesterday to try to get a "goodwill " gesture from VW for replacing this part as the car is now out of warranty, due to high milage not age. He's going to try for me , Ill keep you updated , fingers crossed


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## stevieB (Jul 15, 2006)

*Re: (stevieB)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stevieB* »_i went to sidlow Gatwick yesterday to try to get a "goodwill " gesture from VW for replacing this part as the car is now out of warranty, due to high milage not age. He's going to try for me , Ill keep you updated , fingers crossed 

Thanks to Charlie at Sidlow's Gatwick for talking to VW with regard goodwill gesture, the car is being fixed FOC http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

*Archival Note:* Related post - Wires from Trunk Lid protruded and rear window broken


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

Here's a photo that shows how the sliding tube fits into the trunk lid itself. Normally, if there is a problem with this wiring harness, it is at the bottom end, where the wiring harness attaches to the body of the car (the top edge of the trunk aperture). However, just in case anyone ever has a problem with the tube where it enters the trunk lid, here's a photo that shows how it works inside.
Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

Lastly, a word to the wise: There are two wires within the trunk wiring bundle that have identical colour codes - both are blue with a red stripe. Unfortunately, these wires serve totally different functions and cannot be mixed up. If you mix them up, one of the trunk lid running lights will no longer work (see photo at very bottom). So, pay attention before cutting the original harness - do a continuity check to establish which wire goes where BEFORE cutting the old harness.

Michael


*Wide-angle view of harness repair*









*Close-up showing two identical colour wires in the bundle*









*What happens if you confuse the above two wires*









*What the bundle should look like after you are done*
The yellow marker tape signals that a repair has been made within the bundle.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

*Archival Note:* Some related discussions -
Dealership damaged my car (broken rear window)
Repairing or Replacing Electrical Conduit Leading to Trunk Lid
Michael


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## IalexI (Jul 12, 2009)

*VINs needed: Wire harness trunk lid*

This is regarding the wire harness in the trunk lid.

I had several issues with a recently purchased Phaeton. Since I have already driven Phaetons on 2 different continents and due to EPOC meetings, I was able to get in touch with the management of VWoA. I am still in contact with them and we are currently working through the list of issues.

Most issues have already been sorted out. At first I didn't pay too much attention to the wire harness issue of the trunk lid, but after reading the threads in this forum, my understanding is that the back window can get cracked and back lights may fail due to broken cables caused by tension.

I have already discussed this with VW, since I believe its a security relevant issue and in my humble opinion its pretty obvious a manufacturing failure (after all, what can a user do wrong to cause this problem?).

So far, they follow the argumentation, but haven't decided, yet. It could greatly help to show VW more VINs to prove that its not a rare problem.

If you had the problem in the past or still have it, please send me your Phaetons VIN by private message. If you still have this problem, please also leave your contact data (name, email), so I can inform you when I get a positive response from VW.

This has already been discussed in the forum here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1872713 {Moderation note: the link now lands on the thread you are currently reading - Chris}












_Modified by IalexI at 6:24 PM 8-29-2009_


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: VINs needed: Wire harness trunk lid (IalexI)*

Alex:
VW is well aware of this problem, as can be seen from reading the attached Technical Solution.
Michael


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## Fay-uh-ton (Sep 27, 2007)

*Re: First claim warranty (pilgrim7777)*

I have this same issue and filed it as my first claim to my after market warranty.
It was $1500 to repair to them and nothing for me. I purchased the ZERO deductible. 
$2200 for platinum warranty
-$1500 for claim on trunk cable holder.
-$???? keyless entry sensor replacement.


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## pirateat50 (Dec 10, 2005)

*Re: First claim warranty (Fay-uh-ton)*

Sean, 
Do you have Real Driver Platinum? They declined to pay for mine!


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## brosen (Jun 21, 2009)

*Re: First claim warranty (pirateat50)*

What was the reason they mentioned not to cover it ?, it's clearly a factory defect


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## brosen (Jun 21, 2009)

*Re: First claim warranty (IalexI)*

Mine is in the process of getting completely broken, see the photos, do you think it will make sense to submit my case if it's not fully broken yet ?


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: First claim warranty (brosen)*

Bernard:
What I see in the photos you have posted is breakage of the nylon webbing around the conduit. The more common (and more serious) problem is that the plastic conduit separates from the ferrule at the lower end.
Replacing this wiring harness is a very invasive procedure that can introduce other headaches. Unless you have a reason to get it replaced now (for example, you are covered by CPO warranty now, but won't be forever), I suggest you just leave it alone - that is what I would do if it was my car. Note that I say this after having been through the whole wiring harness replacement process, so, this is the voice of experience speaking.
Michael


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: First claim warranty (PanEuropean)*

The same thing is happening to me, but the mesh is not totall broken yet.
Is there any risk for the mesh to then jam into the sheath (and possibly crack the rear window if the cable folds) or (in your experience) is it relatively safe to leave it this way ?
Another option is to wrap some tape tightly around it...
What would you advise ?
P.


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## testarossaguy (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: First claim warranty (Zaphh)*

Is it possible for a DYI'er to simply splice in an extra inch of length into this harness and releive the tension on the wires when the trunk is open? What is contained in this harness, is it simply wires or is there some other medium in there? The trunk "open" button (on driver's door) on my car quit working, but everything else functions fine so far.


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## pirateat50 (Dec 10, 2005)

*Re: First claim warranty (brosen)*

The first time it was repaired (at about 35K) it was covered by VW's 50K warranty.
The second time it was repaired (at about 80K) I had the Real Driver Platinum extended warranty. I was told it does not cover "wiring looms."


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## Paldi (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: First claim warranty (brosen)*

My mesh is partially frayed but not all the way around. I put tape over it and it's not holding up well, the shaft apparently is designed to "move" a little bit under the mesh. Tape tightly wrapped around the mesh keeps it from moving over the shaft in that area. I'm thinking of removing all the mesh and maybe putting a little bit of lubricant on the tube.










_Modified by Paldi at 9:32 PM 9-1-2009_


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: First claim warranty (Paldi)*

Below is a photo showing the complete assembly that the mesh-covered conduit slides in and out of. You can get access to this assembly quite easily by removing the cover on the inside of the trunk lid - see the post entitled Retrofitting a Warning Triangle in Trunk Lid for an explanation of how to remove the cover.

Below that (in the subsequent post - I can only attach one photo to a post) is a photo showing what the inside of the assembly looks like. 

My own guess - and I have to stress this is just a 'best estimate', not a recommendation based on any experience - is that it would probably be safest to remove all the mesh surround from the conduit, simply to prevent the mesh from getting caught up in the mechanism and jamming. Taping the mesh 'sounds' good, but eventually, the tape will fray or come loose or start to melt in the heat, and this could cause something to jam up.

FWIW.

Michael


{Moderation note: photo no longer available -Chris}


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: First claim warranty (PanEuropean)*

Here's what it looks like inside:


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## brosen (Jun 21, 2009)

*Re: First claim warranty (PanEuropean)*

Agree, I think the best is to remove the whole mesh (the remaining one)


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

*Re: First claim warranty (Paldi)*

When I had my trunk harness replaced, the plan was to replace the harness with the repair kit that splices within the trunk, thus not requiring complete disassembly of the left side interior which is way more invasive (as noted by Michael) if the entire harness was replaced. This is the the factory fix. The new part as noted in another thread is reinforced but I have my doubts about the reliability of the the design in general, reinforced or not. Speaking for myself, I would not be afraid to do the work myself, one just has to be methodical. My recommendation is that if there is any damage to the conduit, whether it be the a fraying sheath or separation of the ball, your days are numbered and when your are out of warranty, you will be on your own. It's safe to say that it cannot be glued and even if you try, it won't last very long.
My plan was, instead of splicing the wiring, I wanted the tech to install the new repair harness with a new connector located below the hatshelf in anticipation for future failures which I feel is inevitable. This would greatly facilitate future replacement. The tech said OK, I sourced a suitable connector, then the tech calls back and said VW wouldn't let him do it then it was back to the factory fix. Dumb!!!







I should have told him to do it under the table as my tech was leaving the dealership anyways. Too bad, he was a really nice guy and capable.
Other thoughts...I have a feeling that when the part ages, friction on the sheath gradually increases and places too much stress on the joint between the ball and the conduit. Eventually, the ball will separate or the sheath will fray. Some preventative maintenance should be taken to keep the sheathing clean, free from fine dust that will increase friction and the potential of wear on the sheath. I'm toying with the idea of lightly lubricating the conduit regularly to prolong the life of the part. The trick is to find a good lubricant that will do the job and not attack the material. I was thinking about a dry wax type lubricant. 
Damon


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## Jagvar (Jan 6, 2009)

*Re: First claim warranty (pilgrim7777)*

I finally got this fixed at the dealership for $1,100. The whole harness needed to be replaced because the tube had completely broken away from the ball socket.
To prevent the new part from fraying, the Phaeton tech suggested a dry wax-based lubricant for the mesh sleeve, which he said could be found in any cycle shop. Sure enough, I went to the bike store down the street and picked up a bottle for $5.95. Here's hoping it works!


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## PeterMills (Sep 1, 2006)

*Boot (trunk) cable*

There is a similar posting on :
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4490409 
There may be other postings. I have posted on the above posting that it could be worth continuing on this one, only, now unless a moderator can combine both postings or suggest something better. 
In view of these problems experienced by others I have treated my cable sheathing with spray silicone/teflon lubricant bought from a chandlers (boat store). I am also looking into the idea of using a black silicone mastic to second bond the woven sheathing at its base by the ball, to stop the separation of the woven sheathing from the ball (which has started very slightly), mindful that generally the woven sheathing needs to be free to move separate from the solid sheathing it covers.
I am interested in other peoples ideas on this.
I have looked up my Warrant Direct and I am unsure whether this would be covered should mine eventually require repair, which outcome I hope to avoid.
PETER M 
UPDATE. Warranty Direct have advised that wiring looms are not covered on their Extracare policy.




_Modified by PeterMills at 10:14 AM 9-9-2009_


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Boot (trunk) cable (PeterMills)*

Following Peter's suggestion, I have locked up the parallel discussion of the same topic that was taking place on this thread: Repairing or Replacing Electrical Conduit Leading to Trunk Lid. This will keep all the discussion in one place, which is here.
There is, however, some good background information on that other thread, so, if you have not already done so, please go have a look at it.
Michael


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## PeterMills (Sep 1, 2006)

*Re: Boot (PanEuropean)*

Michael,
Thanks for doing that.
This does look like an expensive bill that can be avoided, or greatly delayed, with a little care.
I don't know whether others are now opening and closing their boot (trunk) with extra care, but I certainly am! Now that I close it more slowly I notice a midway 'clunk' which is presumably the spring retraction mechanism.
PETER M


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## woodrose200 (Aug 27, 2009)

*Re: Boot (PanEuropean)*

hello Michael. I have recently repaired this cable on my Phaeton (2004), as it looked like all hte other pictures in here. When I purchased the car recently, the rear trunk lid opener (electric) didnt work, and the right trunk lid taillight was out. I thought that all would be resolved when I replaced the cable harness. But - while the trunk lid opening button now works fine - the rear light still doesn't work. The mechanic at the local VW dealership has verified that there is power to the taillight now, where there wasn't before, but the taillight still doesnt work. I get the "check lights" warning ding all the time, whenever the car senses a change in ambient light. With so many little LED's in the taillight, it is hard to believe that they are all burned out. But it is also hard to believe that the entire assemble is faulty, which is what I am being told by the mechanic. As they are expensive to replace, I am wondering if we are overlooking something relatively simple to repair. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Jim


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Boot (woodrose200)*

Jim:
I think that you likely inadvertently crossed two wires, both of which have exactly the same colour coding (striping), but these two wires have very different functions. I made this mistake when I replaced my trunk wiring harness and it took me *FOREVER *to troubleshoot it.
Please see the explanation of how this mistake can happen, what the result of the mistake is, and how to correct it - that explanation is on page 1 of this discussion.
If all else fails - take the ferry over to Vancouver Island, I live in Sidney, and I'll try to help you sort it out.
Michael


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: Boot (PanEuropean)*

Hi everyone,

Faced with a mesh that started degrading:










I first tried to put some tape around the mesh (after having cut the loose bits), but even though the tape was quite thin, the larger diameter did not make it through the sheath and this was strong enough to prevent the trunk from closing ! so the trunk re-opened and I had to remove the tape that had curled on the top part of the mesh...

I then mustered my (totally inexistant) sewing skills, and tried to reconstitute the mesh with strong button thread. 

After one hour, the result is not wonderful (the original mesh is very tight around the tube) but up to now, the trunk opened and closed about 10 times without any problem.











I don't know how the situation will evolve, but will keep you posted.
P.


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## cai (Mar 22, 2009)

*Re: Boot (Zaphh)*

Zaphh:
This is exactly the solution I suggested, but which I have not yet implemented, sometime ago. I have some time available this week, so I will definitely try it also.
Did you sew all around it, or did you try to bring the separated ends together? It is a bit difficult to see in the pictures, but I think you brought the sides together, which is what I had in mind.
Thank you for being the first to do it.
cai


_Modified by cai at 6:14 AM 10-6-2009_


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## mhoepfin (Dec 20, 2007)

I wonder if this would work if caught early enough?
http://www.asseenontvguys.com/...D=678


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## cai (Mar 22, 2009)

*Re: (mhoepfin)*

mhoepfin:
The problem I see with this product is that it is very difficult to bring the sides together. And, you may wind up with a clump or raised surface. The tolerance between this conduit and the hole through which it goes, does not seem to be very big. However, you do say early enough
cai


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: Boot (cai)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cai* »_Zaphh:
This is exactly the solution I suggested, but which I have not yet implemented, sometime ago. I have some time available this week, so I will definitely try it also.
Did you sew all around it, or did you try to bring the separated ends together? It is a bit difficult to see in the pictures, but I think you brought the sides together, which is what I had in mind.
Thank you for being the first to do it.
cai


Hi,
I brought the separated ends together after cutting the loose bits. I found it easier to take 2 needles, one to pass the thread, and the other to help get the first needle above and below the perpendicular threads, although I did not manage to weave through methodically.
I tried to grab enough of the original plastic threads so as to not create too much tension on them, but you will see that the original mesh is very tight, so took me quite a bit of patience and good will to obtain this so-so result.
I don't know how long it will stand. I hope I will not have to do it again more than once a year.
If it degrades too fast, I may be tempted to simply remove the mesh and leave the naked tube...
P.


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## 357Sig (Oct 9, 2008)

*Re: Boot (Zaphh)*

That's some serious Phaeton love.....
I'd do it for mine too, and I may have to. I guess you could say a stitch in time, saves (or at least delays) spending about a Thousand dollars.
Bill


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## woodrose200 (Aug 27, 2009)

*Re: Boot (PanEuropean)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PanEuropean* »_Jim:
I think that you likely inadvertently crossed two wires, both of which have exactly the same colour coding (striping), but these two wires have very different functions. I made this mistake when I replaced my trunk wiring harness and it took me *FOREVER *to troubleshoot it.
Please see the explanation of how this mistake can happen, what the result of the mistake is, and how to correct it - that explanation is on page 1 of this discussion.

Thanks Michael. I printed off your pictures and notes from the first page of this topic, and took it back to the dealership. They were impressed with the quality of your photos, and have agreed to check it out again. But they are somewhat skeptical, because the light gets power through the wires when the switch is turned on, and loses it when the light is turned off, and also - if the wire is crossed with something else, then why isn't something else not working properly.
I decided to simply let them work it out, since the repair is covered by warranty. I will keep you posted on this.
Best regards,
Jim


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## 357Sig (Oct 9, 2008)

*Re: Boot (woodrose200)*

Jim,
What type of warranty do you have that covers this issue? I think a good number of us on the forum have VW Real Driver Platinum warranties on our Phaetons. The reports I have seen all indicate that this particular repair is not covered by those particular warranties.
Bill


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## woodrose200 (Aug 27, 2009)

*Re: Boot (PanEuropean)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PanEuropean* »_Jim:
I think that you likely inadvertently crossed two wires, both of which have exactly the same colour coding (striping), but these two wires have very different functions. I made this mistake when I replaced my trunk wiring harness and it took me *FOREVER *to troubleshoot it.


Hi Michael - the rear taillight out turned out to be a short to ground on some connection to the tail-light, rather than the crossed-wires that we thought. It took them some time to find it, but in time they did, and it is fine now. Thanks very much for your assistance in working this out.
Oh - and one more thing. Since you now live in victoria rather than Toronto, do you still advocate Summer/winter tires rather than all-season? I need new tires soon, and want to look at the most appropriate solution for Vancouver weather.
Jim


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## woodrose200 (Aug 27, 2009)

*Re: Boot (357Sig)*


_Quote, originally posted by *357Sig* »_Jim,
What type of warranty do you have that covers this issue? I think a good number of us on the forum have VW Real Driver Platinum warranties on our Phaetons. The reports I have seen all indicate that this particular repair is not covered by those particular warranties.
Bill

Bill - I too have the VW Real Driver Platinum Warranty, and was successful at getting the repair made under warranty. I am not sure how or why, but it may be how it was "packaged" to the repair company. 
I seem to remember that somewhere in the warranty coverage exclusions, there was some mention of "electrics" or some such thing that was not to be covered by the warranty. Presumably this would be the wiring system, and not the electronics system of the car. However, my failure was the retraction mechanism itself. This in turn led to the severing of some of the wires in the wire bundle which caused some of the problems that I was having. 
But since replacing the mechanism involves changing not only the mechanism but also the cable, I got the full problem repaired. Under the Platinum warranty, they don't so much list the things that they cover, but rather they list the things that they don't cover. So since this wasn't in the list, it was covered. That's the way I see it anyway. If your repair company related the problem as a wiring cable issue, then perhaps it was declined "because of the way it was phrased", rather than for what the real problem was. You might try again, if this is the case. Just a thought....
Jim


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## kend414 (Feb 10, 2009)

*THis item is discontinued?????*

I went to a vw parts website- entered 3D1 970 053 AJ for the trunk harness splice repair kit for trunk lids with the power close button. It states orig price was 349.50 discounted price 259.00 BUT DISCONTINUED! It's one thing to have a factory defective item that needs to be revised and strengthened but quite another to discontinue the part! 
What do we do now?










_Modified by kend414 at 9:06 AM 3-17-2010_


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: THis item is discontinued????? (kend414)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kend414* »_What do we do now? 

Well, the first thing to do is to not assume that simply because a part number is listed as discontinued on a single website, that means the part has been discontinued.
It is entirely possible that the part number and part number suffix that you entered has been superseded with a newer part number and/or part number suffix.
Best thing for you to do is go to a VW dealer, where you can get personal service from a Parts Specialist, and explain what it is that you are after (a repair harness for a Phaeton trunk). Bring your VIN along with you. The Parts Specialist at the VW dealer will be able to look after you far better than any do-it-yourself website can.
Michael


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: THis item is discontinued????? (PanEuropean)*

The only time I've had great service from a parts "specialist" was when I made an international call to Gilbert Lawson in Altrincham. I've dealt with several in the US, and every single one of them has been unhelpful and severely lacking in knowledge. On the flappy paddle call I made a couple of weeks ago, I eventually gave up because he was apparently unable to find the two trim pieces on the diagram.


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## kend414 (Feb 10, 2009)

*Re: THis item is discontinued????? (PanEuropean)*

Michael, I may have come to an incorrect conclusion but it was really meant as a question. I'm hoping your correct in that the part number has been superceded. I agree it is possible but _all_ the other parts I've ever entered have always have shown the superceded PN. I've never come across a "discontinued part" on a Phaeton part. 
As far as the local parts specialist ordering the correct parts for me, from what I've read ,a few have had the wrong part delivered to them several times for this exact repair. I've always obtained better information here than at my local dealer. They don't even know what a Phaeton IS and those that do, ask that you not bring the name up again.
If someone knows the correct part number for this item, would you please share it with the forum. 
The original part number and a picture was shown in a previous post but it seems that number doesn't enter any of the VW dealers part websites anymore.
Does anyone know if this part is indeed discontinued or has been supersceded? If so, would you post the new part number?
I'd also like to know if the 2009 models in Europe use the same system or if it is possible to upgrade to the newer system.
Thanks to all.


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## kend414 (Feb 10, 2009)

Ok, it seems PN 3D1 970 053 AJ has been superceded by PN 3D1 970 053 AN. So it is still available from VW.
Michael, I removed the website I had listed earlier but in all fairness to them, they are not as you suggested a "do it yourself " website but an actual VW dealership's parts dept. When I emailed them the email was returned from the dealership. If you want to know which dealership let me know and I'll PM you. It was one job I had hoped to escape and my anxiety got worse when I couldn't find the part.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (kend414)*

Hi Ken:
There's nothing wrong with that particular internet vendor (1st VW Parts . com). They are well known and have a good reputation.
What I meant by "do it yourself" is that when you go into an online business such as the above, you are "doing it yourself". If you go to a VW dealership and talk to the Parts Specialist, you get the benefit of all the knowledge that the Parts Specialist has. That's likely why you were able to discover that the original part number had been superseded.
The parts specialist at my VW dealer has been there for 20 years, he is an incredible source of knowledge. The parts guys (and girls) are not simply clerks who go and fish objects out of storage bins, they are true specialists in their own right. An online vendor cannot and does not provide this level of service and this added value. That is probably one of the main reasons why the online vendor sells the parts for considerably less than the VW dealer does.
Michael


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

Btw, while this thread is revived, let me tell you that my sewing repair is still going strong...
I keep my fingers crossed, but I can do with a 1h approximate sewing job every year (but we'll see how long this will last, hopefully more than a year).
P.


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## ruddyone (Feb 9, 2009)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

Just wanted to chime in. I completely agree with Michael. One point I would make about 1stvwparts though is that they have you put your VIN number in with your order. And match the part to your VIN.
That said, I gave them a call and interestingly enough they are actually a VW dealer. I spoke to the parts specialist and they looked up the parts while I was on the phone. They gave me the MSRP and also their "wholesale" price.
Best Regards,
Nate


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## HunterST (Dec 11, 2008)

*Re: (ruddyone)*

My nylon mesh was torn through for months, but about 3 weeks ago the plastic conduit tubing separated from the round ferrule at the lower end, and the trunk wouldn't close because the plastic tubing was getting in the way. I've opened a service ticket with the dealership here in Austin; they are ordering parts - I've got the VW platinum extended warranty, but I reported this problem before my factory warranty was up. So we'll see.
After disassembling the unit, I am CONVINCED that the source of the problem is from the nylon webbing first fraying due to friction, and then once completely frayed through it bunches up inside the plastic housing, and interferes with the sliding action of the plastic conduit. I think it's wise to open the unit up and completely remove the nylon webbing if yours has frayed through - I suspect believe it's purpose is cosmetic, although it might be there to make the plastic slide more easily - not sure. Regardless, I see this as a design flaw.


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## kend414 (Feb 10, 2009)

*Re: (HunterST)*

I agree with your assessment. My nylon mesh sheath has been separated from the ball end by 2 inches for 1 year. After the rigid conduit separated from the ball, the nylon mesh cannot be seen. I believe it is bunched up in the housing. I believe when this nylon webbing snags inside, upon opening of the trunk lid, the snagged mesh offers considerable resistance and literally rips the conduit from it's ball base. This nylon webbing has considerable strength. I've seen , albeit on a larger scale, the same nylon braid used as a tow rope. Our cars have protection while closing(pinch protection) but nothing when the trunks opens except maybe a fuse to the hydraulic pump. This is pure speculation on my part. I would think it important that VW advise owners how to safely close the trunk should this repair become necessary. It's an important safety issue as if there is an electrical short from the wires no longer being protected if pinched and the part of our tailights are no longer visible with the trunk lid open.
I would like to know if current year models utilize our current system consisting of the rigid conduit with nylon mesh.


_Modified by kend414 at 8:18 AM 3-20-2010_


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## Aren Jay (Jun 9, 2009)

One wonders if one could replace the nylon sheath with a solid plastic sheath?


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## ct boy (Jun 18, 2010)

I am having issues as well. My nylon covering has frayed and the hard plastic conduit/sleeve has separated from the ball and retracted about 3 inches. Wires are exposed near the ball. I am wondering how critical a situation this is. If I am careful closing the trunk and there are no electrical/wiring issues, can I continue to use this or should I correct the situation immediately?

I have a few observations/questions:

1. How exactly is the rear window broken? I presume the stiff plastic conduit/sleeve becomes trapped at the trunk opening and snaps/rotates clockwise (as you are looking at the car from the left rear wheel). On its upward clockwise arc, I presume it catches the underside of the window and cracks it. Is this the mechanism?

2. If the window is cracked in this way, would it be possible to prevent this by trimming the conduit/sleeve so that is shorter than the trunk lid when fully opened, therefore preventing the impingement? You could tape the wires together near the ball and they would "dangle" down into the trunk when closed--but I don't suppose that would be a big deal.

3. Is the retractible feature of the trunk wiring harness spring loaded or is it passively compressed by the combination of the force of closing the trunk combined with the stiffness of the conduit? If the latter, the solution outlined in #2 may not work as the wiring would then no longer be retracted into the trunk lid.

4. How difficult is the job of replacing the mechanism with the replacement for the DIY guy? It seems pretty straightforward--only complicated by a lot of wire splicing. The part is $250 from 1stvwparts, but others have quoted a total repair job at a dealer of over $1000. Is that $750 in labor costs?

Any thoughts on these issues?

Thanks


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

Hi everyone,

A couple of weeks ago, I noticed that the stitch I did ont the mesh was coming loose, so decided tonight to repair the mesh again, one year after I did it first.

Unfortunately, it turns out the mesh was badly worn out so rather than trying to stitch it back as I did the first time, I decided to simply remove it and stay with the plastic tube exposed.

However, when I removed the mesh, I saw on the bottom that the tube was starting to part with the round ferrule, but I still think that I may be able to glue them together before they part away.

My question is the following: how do you get access to the ferrule as in these photos:

*Close-up of tube and sleeve where they enter the ferrule*




I removed the screws holding the bottom of the hat shelf, but didn't see how to unclip the plastic lining that contained the ferrule...

Thanks for any help on this.

P.


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## PeterMills (Sep 1, 2006)

*Boot Harness*

Pierre,

I don't know the answer to your question, but I do know that my own attempts to stop the solid plastic sleeve from separating from the bottom ball/ferrule failed; I hope you have more luck.

What I did was make a flexible collar from a piece of semil flexible tube and glue it over the weak joint - effectively a splint.

I was quite proud of the result, and opened the boot several times to congraulate myself on saving myself the cost of the short harness.

A few weeks later it had come away and so I had the short harness job done by Wolsey VW Ipswich, at just over £500. An out of warranty 'known fault' application to VW UK was turned down, to the surprise of Wolsey (they had successfully had all my doors covered for tiny bubbles in paint issue the common in the UK). Wolsey kindly helped out 50% from some special goodwill arrangement they have for loyal multi-VW owning customers.

They told me that the short harness change went better than they expected, and was actually problem free. 

My general point being that it may be that you are trying to put off the inevitable.

Herewith before and after photo's of my failed repair! You can see I went over to velcro to for the ferrule cover.





PETER M


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

Thanks for your experience. but how did you get the ferrule cover off ?

I think you were unlucky with your repair because you kept the mesh. I removed mine, and hope I will be able to glue the tube to the ferrule using some epoxy putty such as this:
http://www.rapidonline.com/1/1/4519...9_1282895564_f77941fa381c237d22b2a6ef5c5bcd81

This putty sticks to practically everything and becomes hard as a rock.

But to do a good job, I need good access to the ferrule + tube. I'd like to remove the long plastic cover on the top of the boot but have no clue as how to remove it...


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## PeterMills (Sep 1, 2006)

Pierre,

I am not sure I understood your original question. If you were asking about how to remove the small local plastic cover around the ferule, i.e. this morceau:



Then I can help, I thought you were talking about another area.

This trim on my car was attached with a superglue when I took it off, I think because someone before had broken it on removal (I think I know who, and not Wolsey VW Ipswich, or Dresden). However it has two lugs that do look a bit 'one way' so yours may break them with levering off as well. I would just do it, and then trim off the remaining lug with a craft knife and refix after with industrial velcro as I did. A very satisfactory repair, allowing easy access to maintain your ferrule repair - if you take that route - and to silicone lubricate etc. 

PETER M

BTW thanks for the link. have used 2 part epoxy putty like that before, fantastic stuff. I also love the site, did not know of it before, great repair etc. kit in there!


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## jkuisma (Nov 23, 2009)

> If you were asking about how to remove the small local plastic cover around the ferule, i.e. this morceau:


That little piece of plastic is glued on from the factory. It is not available as a spare part but comes with the large trim part which runs the whole width of the car at the top of the trunk opening. This large plastic part is surprisingly cheap - about 20 euros! It is a PITA to detach - you need to pull out the trunk opening side trims first. I think your brute force + velcro approach is the way to go if you just need access to the ferrule.


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

Thanks for the answers. I'll gulp a couple of :beer: and take the bruteforce approach :thumbup:


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## PeterMills (Sep 1, 2006)

Jouko,

Thanks for correcting me on that. I shall apologise in my prayers this evening for wrongly suspecting it was a post delivery bodge!

Pierre,

Let us know how you get on. The fastening lugs I talk about, on the back of the cover, are pretty puny so it is down to how much glue they used in the factory on you car I would say. On mine it was not much.

PETER M


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## racefaith (Mar 18, 2009)

*Just had mine replaced*

For what's its worth, i went to my dealer and asked the Svc Mgr his advice. (he's also their old Phaeton tech) He said to replace it since he did have one a few years back unseat itself and flip up just as the trunk finished closing and cracked the rear window when the trunk clamped down on it.

I have the VW Real Driver Platinum warranty and he said it was 1 quick call and got the part and labor approved....

Looks good as new now (but sadly, cant see how its any different design wise) still the same sheath and all...


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## Jxander (Aug 5, 2008)

I just saw a 2004 Phaeton on an independent lot in Maitland/Winter Park, FL. They said they had purchased it from my VW dealer. I assume VW let it go because it was not able to be Certified and thus was not worth enough to mess with. It looked moderately well cared for but had a cracked rear window. I asked if they knew what had caused that. They did not know, so I told them it was likely to be a result of the wire casing breaking loose. They already had the window on order but I noted that it would probably break again if they did not deal with the wiring tube. i don't think they wanted to hear that. :banghead:


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## Debart (May 26, 2008)

*I have the same problem*

I have the same problem with wiring harness.
So, after reading this thread I know that reparation is rather impossible in case of full separation of tube and ball.. 
I checked ETKA and I've found three parts related to cableway:
1. 3D0971446L
2. 3D0971417C
3. 3D1970053AC / 3D1970053AH

But what is what? Could somebody explain (or better put a photos) of these first two PN?
The third one is full electrical bundle, with cableway AFAIK, but I don't know what is part under (1) and (2).

Could somebody help?


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## PeterMills (Sep 1, 2006)

Debart,

I don't know were you are and which car you have, these two factors affecting the loom required, as this post and another related post (identified previously) explain.

The parts my Wolsey Ipswich (UK) usEd on my manual booted SWB 2006 3.0Tdi were:

Loom 3D1970053AM £171.38 plus VAT
Connectors x16 000979941 £32 plus VAT
Connectors x1 000979942 6.00 plus VAT 

and labour was £247.50 plus VAT which I am guessing at 3 hours.

I don't have any photos.

PETER M


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## Debart (May 26, 2008)

PeterMills said:


> Debart,
> 
> I don't know were you are and which car you have (...)


I updated my profile  I'm from Poland and I have 2004 NAR phaeton modified to EU (replaced dashboard, radio and navi + some computers)

Thank You Peter for your quick reply, but I'm still thinking what is PN 3D0971446L and 3D0971417C.
According ETKA it seems it is plastic tube and box hidden in trunk "klappe" without electrical wiring.
Is it posiible to buy cableway only (The ferrule+tube+plastic box) without electrical wiring and connectors ?


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## PeterMills (Sep 1, 2006)

Debart said:


> I updated my profile  ..............Is it posiible to buy cableway only (The ferrule+tube+plastic box) without electrical wiring and connectors ?



Debart,

Sorry I don't myself know the answer to that. Perhaps try your dealer?

PETER M


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## Debart (May 26, 2008)

*welding...*

I have a colleague from another VW forum who has a private company specialised in... welding of plastics. Next week we will try to join ferrule and tube by ... WELDING 
If it will be succesfull we can keep 600-900USD in our pocket :beer:
I will keep you informed about results of welding instead adhesive bonding:thumbup:


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

Hi everyone,

So here are the results of my efforts to solve the problem.

1) I removed the ferrule cover with brute force (ended up breaking the plastic hooks that held it in place in the long horizontal trim). The hooks were not glued, but moulded in the cover, and then inserted in the trim. I was lucky enough that breaking the plastic hooks still allowed the cover to somehow click back into place after the job was done. If it falls over, I will use Pete's velcro trick.

2) I had a very good friend of mine come to see the problem. He is very handy and has a lot of experience in mechanics, so I thought he would be of great help. Contrary to what was said above in this thread, it appeared that the ball could easily be dislodged by opening the lips of the cup with a flat screwdriver. This allowed for more space to examine what was going on.

3) As you will see from the photo(s) below, we removed as much of the mesh as we could, exposing the crack in the plastic semi-rigid tube. Actually, it seems that the tube was not damaged, but that it was the assembly between the tube and the ferrule that gave out.

4) Dislodging the ball showed that there was a tit (to echo some other current posts  ) on the bottom of the ball, that apparently prevented it from over-rotating. My friend and I suspect that this tit was partly responsible for the dismantling of the tube-ferrule assembly: if the tit was not at the right place by a couple of degrees, it would prevent the ball from rotating enough to allow the tube to get to a perfect vertical when the boot is open, therefore exerting a really strong force on the tube/ball joint. We therefore chose to remove to cut the tit from the ball. This will allow the ball to rotate past vertical, hopefully removing a constraint.

5) The bottom of the tube was irregular, so we cut it up a bit in order to widen the access ot the inside of the tube. Our plan was to push in as much epoxy putty as possible in order to strenghten the assembly *from the inside* and get the epoxy putty to adhere not only on the outside of the tube, but also on the inside of the tube. So, while one of us opened up the crack in the tube, the other one would cram in as much putty as possible inside with a flat screw driver. When no more could go in, we re-inserted the tube in the ball, and wrapped some putty around the assembly (note the sheet of paper to preserve the rubber seal from the putty).

6) Then, we let cure for a couple of hours (the hex socket under the ball is there to maintain some pressure while the epoxy cured).

The result looks quite clean and sturdy. I also included a picture of the putty we used in case someone else (Debart) wants to try this solution. Without the mesh, the boot now opens and closes flawlessly. The putty is supposed to keep slightly flexible, which, I think, is quite good. Note that the putty we used took 20mn before it started curing. This was nice as it gave us enough time to get everything quite right. Some putty curing in 5mn was available, but this would have been a too short time to do a good job.

Finally, I will paint the putty with shiny black paint, so as to match the colour of the tube.

Btw, I removed the boot lining in order to get access to the complete tube (cf. the link on how to install a warning triangle in the first page of this topic) so as to remove the wire mesh up the the ring that holds it to the tube.

The result is quite clean. I don't know how long it will hold.

Pierre


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## Debart (May 26, 2008)

Zaphh 

The most important info is we can separate ferrule from the "holder" 
I will try to weld it + maybe some glue can help.
Thank you - it is very usefull information  who want to pay hundreds dollars for one broken plastic tube....


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

Hi Debart,

You may want to look again at my post above. I added the corresponding photos.

P.


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## Debart (May 26, 2008)

Yes. I need to do that. 985pln (250Euros) is to much for plastic tube


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## Debart (May 26, 2008)

*welding*

OK my friends !
Today i visited my colleague who is specialised in welding of plastics.
We made repair of tube - ferrule joint 

I think it is the best method to repair this part. Please find herebelow a short video from welding of ferrule  Repair has been done by special equipment and it looks more like TIG welding or soldering than typical welding .

BUT IT WORKS !
Time spent: 1 hour (95% of time we needed for disassemblying covers of trunk lid and shelf .
Cost: 12 USD :laugh:


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

Great job ! 

To me, this looks more like tin soldering. Anyway, did you also glue the mesh to the ferrule or did you remove it ? 

Then, did you remove the small tit on the bottom of the ball ? I think that this tit creates a big effort on the tube/ferrule link, so if you have not done it and if you want your repair to hold, I would advise you to trim it down. Up to now, I haven't had any adverse effect of removing it. 

P.


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

Thank you for the great video. This may be the most economical and least labor intensive solution yet. Has he identified the specific type of plastics involved and were there any concerns regarding overheating the wires inside the conduit? I had mine replaced with an updated part but I suspect it will happen again. Apparently, the tools range from $70 to $350. 
Thanks again. 
Damon


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## mrhavis (May 1, 2010)

Hello All - 

My Phaeton is now exhibiting separation of the plastic sleeve (that the wiring passes through) where it meets the "ball" base. I will be taking it to the dealer for repair.

I open/close the trunk numerous times per day. And I am keen on not having the rear window cracked as described in some of the posts.

However, looking at the part, and reading the posts - I cannot visualize how the window can be cracked.

Can someone describe how this happens to me - exactly?

Thank you -

Mike


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## Debart (May 26, 2008)

Zaphh said:


> Great job !
> 
> To me, this looks more like tin soldering. Anyway, did you also glue the mesh to the ferrule or did you remove it ?
> 
> ...


I removed the mesh totally  and the tit has been cut. Now it works properly


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## DNAguy (Oct 13, 2009)

*Just had it fixed*

Just had the identical problem fixed....A $1,700 repair not covered by the platinum warrantee because it involved the "wiring." Major bummer....


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## mrhavis (May 1, 2010)

Hello All - 

I access my trunk often, and the plastic tube came out of the round "ball" part - as it seems to happen to a lot of our Phaetons. I am checking with the dealer regarding repair. 

But I also contacted Urethane Supply Company www.urethanesupply.com - about what products they might have for a DIY repair.

This company seems to be the experts in supplies for plastic repair. Their videos are very informative. They do need to know what kind of plastics are involved here in order to make the best recommendation. And I am not sure what to tell them.

Does anyone know what the plastic tube/sleeve is made from? And what that molded "ball" part is molded from?

Thanks -

Mike


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## johnt26 (Dec 3, 2009)

Hi All, 

I'm having the issue with the sleeve separating from the ball as well. The mesh has also crept about halfway up the sleeve, probably the cause of the separation? 

Because of this forum I noticed that the sleeve was cracked when I purchased the car last month. I asked the appraiser from Fidelity to look at it along with some other items, he denied the repair. 

After reading this thread, and the others, it seems that the best course of action is to replace the short harness with the redesigned part. 

Have any DIYers complete the harness job themselves? 

I'll give my parts guru, Albert at Holbert's, a call tomorrow to check on the pricing. 

I may order it, check for the correct part, then decide if I want to complete the work myself. 
Although my 11 year old son and chief assistant could fit in the trunk better than I can!  
And he wields a mean wire cutter! 

Any suggestions? 

Thanks!!


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## Paldi (Sep 4, 2004)

*Worn but not departed...*

My trunk tube mesh is frayed about half way around the plastic tube. The mesh is still holding in position and the tube appears to be intact with the ball. I am worried the fraying will continue to get worse and so am considering cutting and removing the entire length of mesh from the ball to the edge pf the trunk and perhaps putting some sort of lube grease on the plastic tube. Do you think this is a good plan or will it likely make things worse? What is the purpose of the mesh?


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## johnt26 (Dec 3, 2009)

Paldi, 
Pictures will follow shortly. 
I am not an expert but... 
I believe the mesh is strictly aesthetic. 
I was able to take apart the trunk in minutes using the triangle install directions in this thread and my new trim tools! 

I took apart the rectangular box that the tube slides into, it comes apart easily too once removed from the trunk lid with three screws. The two halves of the box slide away from each other, one goes up the other down. 
The tube simply slides into a plastic sleeve the shape of the tube inside the box. The problem, IMHO, is that the mesh gathers inside the sleeve in the box and binds the tube from sliding easily which puts tremendous force on the ball and the screws that hold the box to the trunk lid. There is a plastic "stop" on the tube inside of the box that prevents the harness from extending past the end of box, as the mesh material gathers in front of that stop it effectively makes the tube shorter. And, I think the mesh could intermittently bunch up, in other words, sometimes it works just fine, others not so much. Even removing the mesh I could see how much trouble it could cause, once some of it got on top of itself it was very difficult to move so I could cut it. 

I have the power trunk so the hydraulics can easily pull the plastic tube out of the ball or break the tube. I wonder if the manual trunk users would feel it binding? 
I was lucky in that the tube simply pulled out of the ball and can readily be re-glued. Also the bosses that the screws go into in the box are relieved about 3/16" from the force. 
Since I removed the mesh all the way to the stop in the box I'd bet there won't be any force on the tube/ball conection any longer. 
I ordered some Devco "Plastic Welder" adhesive in black from Grainger that I'll use to re-attach the ball to the tube. 
Edit..the link wouldn't work so try a a google search of: 
"Devco Plastic welder black" 
I'll post pictures and results when I'm finished. 
I would like everything to stay factory but I'd rather do this repair and do without the mesh than perform major surgery on the harness that could give me problems later. 

Paldi, If you need a hand taking yours apart and cutting the mesh all the way up to and into the box, bring it up my way! 
BTW, my tube was slightly disconnected from the ball and the mesh looked pretty good when I purchased the car last month. As soon as the mesh crept up and got stuck inside the box, the ball disconnected. We use the trunk a lot! 
I'll post when I complete the job and see what happens. 
Caution: don't let too much of the Devcon Epoxy get into the tube/ball, the residue can cause a sharp edge that will cut wires. Please see post 108 for more.


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## Paldi (Sep 4, 2004)

*how much to cut...*

I wonder if cutting the mesh off that I can "see" is enough? 

I don't want to take the trunk covers off to dismantle the black box to get every bit of the mesh if I don't have to. Hoping the two or three inches of mesh I can't get too isn't enough to jam things up. 

Like you, I also have the power trunk.


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## johnt26 (Dec 3, 2009)

Paldi said:


> I wonder if cutting the mesh off that I can "see" is enough?
> 
> I don't want to take the trunk covers off to dismantle the black box to get every bit of the mesh if I don't have to. Hoping the two or three inches of mesh I can't get too isn't enough to jam things up.
> 
> Like you, I also have the power trunk.


 The more of it you remove the better, all or nothing may be a better description. 
Take a look at the picture below. The ring on the tube is the end of the tube and stops the tube from exiting the box. Cutting as much as you can see not only leaves several inches inside the box but if it is already partially curled up you maybe leaving even more. The best way, again IMHO, is to cut all of the mesh back to the ring on the tube or whatever is left can bunch up in the canal between the stop and the ring and cause excessive forces on the tube/ball connection. Post 15 shows similar damage to what I found as far as the screw holes being elongated from the force. Notice that the attach screw that can be seen in the picture is not in its slot but well above it. 
The big issue in my mind is, if the tube snaps above the ball, as many have, it would be very difficult to repair. Like I said, I got lucky in that mine simply pulled out of the ball. 
When I get mine operational, I'll let you know how it works. 
As far as lube, the smooth plastic tube slides inside of another smooth plastic tube, I'm not sure that the mesh is there for lubricity. However, I wonder if it there for strength to avoid rubbing through the plastic, I doubt it though. 

Again, I would be glad to help remove the trunk and cut the mesh if you're ever up in Bucks County! An hour tops! 

Can anyone else chime in on how their tube is holding up meshless?


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

johnt26 said:


> Can anyone else chime in on how there tube is holding up meshless?


 No problem with mine since I did the mod. 

P.


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## johnt26 (Dec 3, 2009)

Hi All, 

My repair didn't last, well technically it did last but during the time the hydraulic trunk was yanking on the harness it damaged some of the wires..that's why my taillight was out.  

I can see several other wires, including at least one that goes to the latch that are about to break. 

It's time to do the repair correctly and replace the entire (short) harness! 

Does anyone have the latest part number for the partial harness with the power trunk option? 

Thanks! 

EDIT: 2/2013, see harness replacement DIY post 196 here.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

John: 

The only two part numbers that I know of are the ones listed on page 1 of this thread (about the third or fourth post from the top). Read the fine print, there are two different part numbers - depending on whether you have a power trunk (hydraulic lifting trunk) or not. 

Check to see if either one of those PNs work at your VW dealer. If not, let me know, I will be at the Phaeton factory in Dresden next week and I can ask them on your behalf if needed. 

Michael


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## johnt26 (Dec 3, 2009)

Hi Michael, 

Apparently the numbers have been superseded several times. 

Zeb at 1stVWparts.com recently helped another forum member with the harness order so he was very helpful. He made a call to "VW Corporate" and came up with the following part number: 
000970053A. 

He said that part number corresponds to the "short" harness for my 2004 VIN with the power trunk, I have not purchased it to confirm it but it does show up in the online parts search. 

Thanks!


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## johnt26 (Dec 3, 2009)

The latest on my repair... 

The result of the NTSB investigation is complete. We found that we used too much of the very potent Devcon Plastic Welder epoxy (Grainger, black in color). The glue formed a razor sharp "shelf" of glue inside the ferrule ball that slowly sawed through one wire and was on its way through a second. :banghead: 

We decided to repair the harness and save the $$. My 12 year old and I brought our electric R/C aircraft soldering skills to bear on the problem as we couldn't use butt connectors since the broken wires were inside the ferrule ball. 

The job is complete, we used the Devcon sparingly inside and used a bead on the outside which seemed to work well. 

Time will tell but I think we are back in business! 

*EDIT: 2/2013* check post 196 here for harness replacement


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## Jorgsphaeton (Sep 8, 2009)

be careful on repairing the cables, mine broke and damaged the control module of the trunk because two cables touched eachother. so give it a good check.

jorg


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## MichaelGa (Dec 1, 2009)

John,

did you ever fix your trunk / tail light issues? Curious to know how your DIY fix went. Seemed that at the GTG you knew exactly what you need to do next. How did it go?

Michael


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## johnt26 (Dec 3, 2009)

Hi Michael,

See the post 108 above. I decided to save the money and major surgery on the harness and repair it again using my experience from my first repair.

It seems fine so far, I'm pretty confident that the repair will be permanent this time.

I also ordered some adhesive-backed flocking cloth to finish the job aesthetically. 
I'll post the results of that endeavor once I complete it!

*EDIT:* 2/2013 see harness replacement post 196 here


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## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

*Cause and solution*

Last weekend I decided to cope with this little problem entirely. I cut the braided sleeve at both ends using a reflow soldering station and put it back together. I must say, that it now runs very smooth now, especially with the PTFE containing bicycle lubricant which some members mentioned earlier.
I really think this is the best solution, as the braided sleeve was not manufactured for that purpose in the first place. Secondly, there is a very strong bend while the trunk lid closes, about 30º from full closure, making things worse as the braid rubs against the edges of the guiding cassette in the trunk lid.

The photo below shows how strong the tube (already modified) gets bent during opening & closure of the trunk lid.









Although the photo is not the very best quality, you can see that the tube is bent more than 45º, causing the tube to bend strongly, with inevitable wear of the braided sleeve as result.

I found removal of the braided sleeve most easy by removing the trunk lid liner, then removing the three attachment screws of the cassette which keeps the excess cable in place. This makes it possible to slide the two halves of the cassette in the length direction, hence they will separate. John explained that in an earlier post.

*
Opened cassette, showing the expanding loop of the cable bundle.*








Once this is done, you can take out the cable from its cassette completely, allowing access to both ends of the braided sleeve. I simply cut it away with scissors and finished the job by making a clean cut with the aid of a reflow soldering station with an outlet air temperature set to 350 ºC. (Actually, I think that a lighter might do the job just as well.) On the photo above, you can see the same type of braided sleeve, where this material was well used to keep the wires bundled during bending and straightening.


The photo below shows the reassembled cassette prior to putting the trunk lid liner back on. You can see the lower end of the cassette, which is tube shaped at the lower end. It is at this location where I suspect that the whole issue starts.


*Reassembled cassette with bare cable tube & lubricant.*










It is working well now and there is no sign of wear on the lubricated part. I think I can live with the slightly diminished aesthetics of the trunk. 



Willem


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## fdtinc (Dec 31, 2010)

Willem, great post and pictures.

It's hard to believe that that stiff material (when touched in the open), can be snaked by the mechanism like that.
A bunch of comments from the past called this a design flaw, but that is really putting it mildly, from you photos.

As you live in Europe: has this issue been an ongoing one for post 2006 Phaeton's also?
Did VW ever make a change to that really weak spot, or is it still in production on the current cars?

Finally, would you recommend the PTFE as a preventive measure for this part? Our V8 had the whole thing already repaired under warranty at


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

The tubing doesn't really extend to the portion that snakes.
Damon


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Damon is correct. The portion that 'snakes' (the portion that is in the cassette) appears to be the same as the straight part that moves in and out of the bottom of the cassette, but in actual fact, the flexible portion in the cassette is just the wire bundle covered by a net-like material that prevents the wires from rubbing against the inside of the cassette.

Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Willem:

After looking at the first picture that you posted above, *NOW *I know why the braided sleeve on the wire tube of your trunk was damaged (abraded). Something - I do not know what - is preventing the round ferrule from freely rotating in the assembly at the edge of the trunk aperture.

The tube should not ever bend like that. That round ferrule should be free to rotate within its enclosure. Below are photos that shows what the construction of the base with the ferrule looks like. I am going to guess that perhaps a piece of debris might be present in your car that is preventing the ferrule from freely rotating.

Michael

*Disassembled Base of Ferrule*


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## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

The flexible tube ends right there, where I kept my finger on the second photo. The “snaking" part of the wire bundle is covered only by a braided sleeve, which is similar, if not identical, to the sleeve which originally was used as cosmetic improver for the tube. The snake moves freely inside the cassette with negligible friction and therefore doesn’t require any modification nor lubrication. As Damon and Michael indicated, there is no tube in this section of the wire bundle and isn’t part of the problem.
I merely made this photo in order to indicate that, for the purpose of removal of the worn braided sleeve, it is recommended to disassemble the cassette. I’m sorry for the confusion.



PanEuropean said:


> Willem:
> After looking at the first picture that you posted above, *NOW *I know why the braided sleeve on the wire tube of your trunk was damaged (abraded). Something - I do not know what - is preventing the round ferrule from freely rotating in the assembly at the edge of the trunk aperture.


Michael, 

This ferrule can rotate freely and without obstruction. Everything is as clean as can be. I think that the angle of the ferrule, as shown on the first picture, is correct, because any other angle would cause either an “S” curve or even a stronger bend in the tube.



PanEuropean said:


> The tube should not ever bend like that. That round ferrule should be free to rotate within its enclosure. Below are photos that shows what the construction of the base with the ferrule looks like. I am going to guess that perhaps a piece of debris might be present in your car that is preventing the ferrule from freely rotating.


After taking a closer look today, I noticed that the bending angle is slightly exaggerated on the photo, on account of the fact that the visible part of the trunk lid liner is also angled with respect to the orientation of the cassette. I only made the photo after final assembly and I’m sure that the real angle is not more than 45º. Surely this is still enough to cause a significant amount of friction of the braided sleeve. If I have some time and mood, I'll take another picture with the trunk lid liner removed, so you get a clear view of the cassette as well.
But I guess that you will inspect this issue as soon as you return home. I’m already looking forward to hearing your comments on this. ic:

Willem


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## chillson (Sep 6, 2010)

*Trying to confirm the correct part number for replacement kit*

A few weeks ago the plastic sleeve finally separated at the bottom exposing the bundle of wires. I have been careful to push the sleeve back down to cover the exposed wires before closing the trunk and this has worked fine. I had the car in the shop a couple of weeks ago for the timing belt service and made sure everyone there knew not to open the trunk (could result in damaged wiring, even broken rear window). I got the car back in great shape. Last week I had the car back in the shop to replace a CV boot. Again I emphatically told them not to open the trunk. Picked-up my car yesterday and drove it home. This morning as I was going to start my attempt to fix the sleeve separation, I open the trunk and notice the sleeve is crimped/bent in a way I have never seen it. I immediately knew someone had opened and closed the trunk carelessly. My heart sank as upon closer inspection the rear glass was cracked!

Thankfully, my shop has taken full responsibility and will replace the rear glass. They are also going to take care of the harness repair as the sleeve is now deformed (bent/crimped) and many of the wires are more bent than I am comfortable with. The issue is that my shop is not a VW dealer. They want me to order the replacement part and take it to them. I was on the phone with my VW dealer today they came up with part number 000 970 053 "sectional wiring harness for rear flap" for my '04 V8 with non-power operated (manual) trunk lid.

I am not confident that this is the correct part number. In an earlier post, Michael gave part number 3D1 970 053 AH for the manual trunk partial harness. His number seems much more specific than 000 970 053 which the parts guy quoted me today. The kicker is that, because this would be a special order, it would not be returnable. The quoted price is $453 plus tax. Obviously I am not going to place the order without knowing I am getting the correct part.

Does anyone have an opinion or advice? Thanks...Jay


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## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

chillson said:


> I am not confident that this is the correct part number. In an earlier post, Michael gave part number 3D1 970 053 AH for the manual trunk partial harness. His number seems much more specific than 000 970 053 which the parts guy quoted me today.


Hi Jay,
You are right being suspicious about it. This "Splice-in sectioned trunk lid wiring harness" comes in 2 varieties:
*3D1 970 053 AH* is for non-powered trunk lid closing
*3D1 970 053 AJ* is for powered trunk lid closing
The part number which your shop quoted, indeed isn't very specific, as even the 3D1 prefix is missing.

Willem


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## chillson (Sep 6, 2010)

I just re-read post #107 from John above and now believe the part number I was quoted from my VW dealer is the correct part number at 1stvwparts.com. 000970053 would be for non-powered (manual) trunks and 000970053A would be for the powered trunk lids. An additional bonus is that the price from 1stvwparts.com is $275.96 vs. $453 from the dealer. I am pretty sure they have a reasonable return policy just in case it is not the correct part. I think I will pull the trigger and order it and see what I get. I will let everybody know what happens next. 

If anyone has any other opinion or advice, it is most appreciated. Thanks...Jay


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## johnt26 (Dec 3, 2009)

Hi Jay,

Zeb seemed to know the issues with the part numbers and the problem.

Had I not fixed my harness, I would have felt comfortable ordered from Jeb.

Please keep us posted, Best of Luck!


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## chillson (Sep 6, 2010)

Hi John! Thanks for the reply. When I get this kit, at what point (location) do you think the actual wire cutting will take place? In other words, will I have a new harness that includes the cartridge (maybe not), the plastic sleeve with braided cover, and the ball shaped end? So will the part coming out of the cartridge have a connector end and the part coming out of the ball end just be loose wires? Thus, I will cut the bundle of wires somewhere behind the ball shaped area? Is there a recommended method for splicing this type of job together? It seems like the bundle will get pretty thick. 
Thanks again...Jay


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## johnt26 (Dec 3, 2009)

Michael has some great information in post #29 about the splice work here, check that out when you get a chance.

Best!


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

chillson said:


> Hi John! Thanks for the reply. When I get this kit, at what point (location) do you think the actual wire cutting will take place? In other words, will I have a new harness that includes the cartridge (maybe not), the plastic sleeve with braided cover, and the ball shaped end? So will the part coming out of the cartridge have a connector end and the part coming out of the ball end just be loose wires? Thus, I will cut the bundle of wires somewhere behind the ball shaped area? Is there a recommended method for splicing this type of job together? It seems like the bundle will get pretty thick.
> Thanks again...Jay


They will be loose wires. VW has a spec for splicing wires and I believe its mentioned in the previous post's link. The factory procedure for the repair is quite detailed and specific. The splice should be located under the hat shelf area.
Damon


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## chillson (Sep 6, 2010)

Damon, thanks for the reply. I hope to get the harness this week. I am not sure if I should complete the repair myself or let my non-vw shop do the work. You state that the procedure is quite detailed and specific. Where can I find this info? I didn't see any vw specs in the link. Do the specs instruct as to what needs to be disconnected (battery?) or anything else to protect the electrical system? Any thoughts or advice is much appreciated. Thanks...Jay


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Jay:

Be very careful not to accidentally mix up two wires in the harness that both have the same colour coding. This is easy to do, and difficult to troubleshoot later.

Michael


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## chillson (Sep 6, 2010)

Yes, Michael, I am very aware of this thanks to your great post. Is there a way to know which is which from the get go or do you just take your 50% probability of getting it right and switch them if you get it wrong? Thanks for the reply...Jay


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

chillson said:


> Damon, thanks for the reply. I hope to get the harness this week. I am not sure if I should complete the repair myself or let my non-vw shop do the work. You state that the procedure is quite detailed and specific. Where can I find this info? I didn't see any vw specs in the link. Do the specs instruct as to what needs to be disconnected (battery?) or anything else to protect the electrical system? Any thoughts or advice is much appreciated. Thanks...Jay


I had mine replaced under warranty but gave the dealer a lot of information I gathered and printed. I'll have to see if I can find it. As I recall, they did have an issue getting the correct part.

Damon


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## chillson (Sep 6, 2010)

Michael,

I saw in FAQ that there is a 37 page document entitled "Wiring Harness Inspection & Repair" that you had attached in 2 parts. Neither part is now available on the post. Is this document still available? I would love to have it before starting my repair. Please let me know. Thanks...Jay


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hi Jay:

Here you go - it's attached below.

Michael


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## chillson (Sep 6, 2010)

Michael,

Thanks so much for the quick reply. I haven't read through the docs yet but I will let everyone know how the wiring harness repair works out for me. Thanks again...Jay


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## chillson (Sep 6, 2010)

So I ordered the wiring harness repair kit in early July from 1stvwparts.com. I was told it was one of only nine units available in the U.S. About a week and a half later, I received the unit but one of the plastic flanges on the cartridge that attaches to the trunk was broken off. 1stvwparts.com told me to send back the unit and they would order me another. This time there were only four units available in the States. Another week and a half and finally I have the part in perfect condition. Zeb at 1stvwparts.com was great to work with and they really helped me out (no hassle about returning the broken part for exchange). 

Last week my shop (non-VW) repaired the harness free of charge. When I dropped off my car (along with the new replacement harness), I sat down with the service manager and showed him this thread, 2 VW wiring harness repair tutorials, and even wrote a message about the two wires woth the same color code. They did a great job. The trunk cover and plastic parts were put back with excellent fit and finish (can't tell there was any work done) and the new sleeve with virgin mesh looks brand new. My unit does have the reinforced plastic neck above the ball joint (like in Michael's pictures above). I am now waiting for the back glass to arrive from Germany before I take my car back for them to complete the job.

Moral of the story: I am very lucky to have such a good relationship with this shop. The harness was separated but still reparable when I took it in for a minor repair. They damaged the sleeve further and broke the rear window by opening and shutting the trunk against my instructions. To replace both the harness and back glass free of charge (including reimbursing me for the cost of the harness) is going above and beyond great customer service. I have been going there for over 13 years. 

Imporatant to consider: If the info I received from 1stvwparts.com is true, there are only 3 wiring harness repair kits (for manual lift trunks) available in the U.S. If any of you think you are going to have to undergo this repair, you may want to get the part while you still can (if it's not already too late).

One last question: Is there any reason I shoudn't spray the mesh-covered sleeve with WD-40 to help reduce friction? Is there a better lubricant for this?

Sorry for the long post but much thanks to many of you who helped me along the way. If not for this forum, I never would have known about the possibilty of cracked rear glass and I would have broken mine for sure. I would guess conservatively that the above repairs (wiring harness and rear glass replacement) would have cost me a combined $3000. Thanks again...Jay


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

I would refrain from using any petroleum based lubricant on the plastic. It may attack the plastic. I use silicone based detail spray often to make the whole thing slick.

Damon.


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## gartracescort (Apr 4, 2010)

On mine, the rigid tube came out of the spherical bottom joint and began to distress the wiring there. A few months of giving it a tug each time the boot closed was ok but annoying. eventually a wire did break (LH inner tail lamp). I spent some of a Saturday morning taking the trim off the bootlid and having a good look and a think.

In the end I removed and dismantled the bootlid cassette assembly and cut/sectioned off the rigid tube. This liberated about 2 feet of harness that I double bound with electrician's tape after soldering and heat-shrink protecting the broken wire. Inside the cassette there is a serpentine guideway for the harness. There is one small section about 1 inch long (just by the thumb in post #112) that can be trimmed out to allow a straight run for the harness to then go straight through, using the cassette merely as a guide to keep the cable run stable inside the bootlid trim, stopping it tangling and ensuring it exits the trim in the same place as originally. The difference now is that the cable is more than long enough to take care of itself when the boot operates. The cable movement is such that there is little chance of future fatigue due to excessive movement. My only regret is that I only had red tape on the day, but that's easy!

It is a pity that some idiot designed such an utterly stupid (but almost clever) method of getting power to the boot electrics. Its not even as if it looks good from new; beautiful engineered hinges, hidden edges, subtle mechanism and fine trim covers. And a stupid black prong to break up the lines. Why not just run it conventionally or even use sprung contacts like on the Q7?

And why have a premium car with a sat nav that won't take post codes!!

Other than those two issues, a great car!


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## Jxander (Aug 5, 2008)

dlouie said:


> I would refrain from using any petroleum based lubricant on the plastic. It may attack the plastic. I use silicone based detail spray often to make the whole thing slick.
> 
> Damon.


I do the same, using silicone spray for the same reasons. So far mine looks and functions like new. However, I am VERY careful when I close my trunk and try making sure that no one else touches it.

I think this is another of those significant but generally preventable repairs on the Phaeton.

Jim X


----------



## gartracescort (Apr 4, 2010)

On mine, the rigid tube came out of the spherical bottom joint and began to distress the wiring there. A few months of giving it a tug each time the boot closed was ok but annoying. eventually a wire did break (LH inner tail lamp). I spent some of a Saturday morning taking the trim off the bootlid and having a good look and a think.

In the end I removed and dismantled the bootlid cassette assembly and cut/sectioned off the rigid tube. This liberated about 2 feet of harness that I double bound with electrician's tape after soldering and heat-shrink protecting the broken wire. Inside the cassette there is a serpentine guideway for the harness. There is one small section about 1 inch long (by the thumb in post #112) that can be trimmed out to allow a straight run for the harness to then go straight through, using the cassette merely as a guide to keep the cable run stable inside the bootlid trim, stopping it tangling and ensuring it exits the trim in the same place as originally. The difference now is that the cable is more than long enough to take care of itself when the boot operates. The cable movement is such that there is little chance of future fatigue due to excessive movement. My only regret is that I only had red tape on the day, but that's easy!

It is a pity that some idiot designed such an utterly stupid (but almost clever) method of getting power to the boot electrics. Its not even as if it looks good from new; beautiful engineered hinges, hidden edges, subtle mechanism and fine trim covers. And a stupid black prong to break up the lines. Why not just run it conventionally or even use sprung contacts like on the Q7?

And why have a premium car with a sat nav that won't take post codes!!

Other than those two issues, a great car!


----------



## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

> ...
> And why have a premium car with a sat nav that won't take post codes!!
> ...


I don't know about Germany but in France, a post code corresponds to a town, or a group of hamlets or smaller towns (in fact, the postcode is the code of the main post office of the town that then redistributes the mail to smaller postoffices that then redistribute the mail to residents).

In Paris, there as are many postcodes as there are "quarters", i.e. only 20, with as many as 30k inhabitants for the 75020 postcode.

All this to say that this is different from England, where a postcode is more or less specific to a block.

In France, there would be no point in typing in a postcode as it would get you to the town (67000 = Strasbourg).

If this postcode system is comparable in Germany and the GPS system was designed in Germany, nobody would have seen the point of putting a postcode as a direction.

P.


----------



## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

Zaphh said:


> I don't know about Germany but in France, a post code corresponds to a town, or a group of hamlets or smaller towns (in fact, the postcode is the code of the main post office of the town that then redistributes the mail to smaller postoffices that then redistribute the mail to residents).
> 
> In Paris, there as are many postcodes as there are "quarters", i.e. only 20, with as many as 30k inhabitants for the 75020 postcode.
> 
> ...



Pierre,

never even thought of that! 
Our postcode in France is 9500, small town called Mirepoix. I am guessing you could find us by asking someone on arrival!!! Defeats the object somewhat!
However our UK post code would indicate the Town, Street, and odd or even house number!

Stu


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

gartracescort said:


> This liberated about 2 feet of harness that I double bound with electrician's tape after soldering and heat-shrink protecting the broken wire.


Note that VW does not recommend soldering as an acceptable repair for wiring. Please see Michael's posting above with attached documents. 

Damon


----------



## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

EnglishPhaeton said:


> Pierre,
> 
> never even thought of that!
> Our postcode in France is 9500, small town called Mirepoix. I am guessing you could find us by asking someone on arrival!!! Defeats the object somewhat!
> ...


Err...,

I'm afraid you didn't get what I said.

I have the pleasure to inform you that your postcode 9500 corresponds to no less than 22 towns or hamlets !!! (cf. below).

So I have no doubt that in Mirepoix, everyone knows about that English guy with his strange VW, but if you gave me your postcode only (9500), how would I know I would need to go to Mirepoix to have the pleasure to meet you ?

09500 is the postcode of the following towns: 

09500 BESSET
09500 CAMON
09500 CAZALS DES BAYLES
09500 COUTENS
09500 LA BASTIDE DE BOUSIGNAC
09500 LAGARDE
09500 LAPENNE
09500 MALEGOUDE
09500 MANSES
09500 MIREPOIX
09500 MOULIN NEUF
09500 RIEUCROS
09500 ROUMENGOUX
09500 ST FELIX DE TOURNEGAT
09500 ST JULIEN DE GRAS CAPOU
09500 ST QUENTIN LA TOUR
09500 STE FOI
09500 TEILHET
09500 TOURTROL
09500 TROYE D ARIEGE
09500 VALS
09500 VIVIES

Btw, mirepoix is the name of a famous French side dish http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mirepoix_(cuisine)

It would be interesting to know if the mirepoix mix of vegetables originated from Mirepoix.

Could you ask around ?

P.


----------



## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

Zaphh said:


> Err...,
> 
> I'm afraid you didn't get what I said.
> 
> ...


Pierre,

I didn't realise we shared the code postal with quite so many neighbours!! In answer to the mixed veg dish it has no apparent connection to the town of Mirepoix. 
I asked many years previously! 

Stu


----------



## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

Zaphh said:


> Btw, mirepoix is the name of a famous French side dish
> It would be interesting to know if the mirepoix mix of vegetables originated from Mirepoix.


Hi Pierre,

This dish was given that name by the duke of Lévis-Mirepoix, a guy with the name Gaston Pierre de Lévi. Actually, his cook invented it, who happened to be a Dutch guy, captured by the inquisition during his summer holiday. He was released on the condition that he would create a famous dish for king Louis XVI 


The truth is over here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mirepoix_(cuisine), with (strange, but true) a lot more information than the French Wiki.

Regards,

Willem


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

WillemBal said:


> Hi Pierre,
> 
> This dish was given that name by the duke of Lévis-Mirepoix,...


Which takes us back to the original question: was the "Mirepoix" of the duke of Mirepoix the small town currently occupied by the English ? :laugh: :wave:

P.


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## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

Zaphh said:


> Which takes us back to the original question: was the "Mirepoix" of the duke of Mirepoix the small town currently occupied by the English ? :laugh: :wave:
> 
> P.


Pierre,

short answer is yes, although the (VERY) mediocre Château of the Levis family still exists, albeit in a poor state these days, the most famous (and therefore most celebrated) member of the Levis dynasty is Guy.
Very little info on him doing a quick search of Wiki, although I have read quite a bit about his exploits. He was heavily involved during the Albigensian Crusade, and was allied eventually with Simon De Montforts armies in their extermination of the Cathars.
If you are interested in a very absorbing book I can thoroughly recommend the "Massacre at Montsegur" Written by a German woman whose name escapes me, but well worth a few hours!

Stu


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

No, the answer that a "mirepoix" comes from the Duke of Mirepoix's cook in Mirepoix is perfect enough for me. One last question: is it standard for local restaurants to serve meat with a "mirepoix de légumes" ?
It is not obvious that they should, because cooking a good mirepoix with matching gravy takes time (more than throwing a bag of frozen chips into rancid oil (yuck !)).

P.


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## kend414 (Feb 10, 2009)

Solution based focus or "Famous cooks of France for 500" ?:laugh:


----------



## gartracescort (Apr 4, 2010)

dlouie said:


> Note that VW does not recommend soldering as an acceptable repair for wiring. Please see Michael's posting above with attached documents.
> 
> Damon


Given a, the cost of a new part, b, the lousy design and c, the minimal current for a few LEDs.....I'll risk it!


----------



## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

Zaphh said:


> No, the answer that a "mirepoix" comes from the Duke of Mirepoix's cook in Mirepoix is perfect enough for me. One last question: is it standard for local restaurants to serve meat with a "mirepoix de légumes" ?
> It is not obvious that they should, because cooking a good mirepoix with matching gravy takes time (more than throwing a bag of frozen chips into rancid oil (yuck !)).
> 
> P.


Pierre,

we are talking Ariege here! My children first encountered the local "mirepoix" at school, they still refer to it as "left-overs"!!

Stu


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

As much as (as a Phaeton owner) you certainly understand the difference between a Phaeton and other cars that may look more sexy at first glance, but lack the refinement of the Phaeton, you must understand the mission you have to educate your kids and (having the blessing of living in a wonderful part of France) teach them the difference between junk food and the much revered "mirepoix de légumes," which was invented where they live, and which is so exquisite with, say, "un gigot de 7 heures" http://www.meilleurduchef.com/cgi/mdc/l/fr/recettes/gigot_7_heures_ill.html

Another activity you should indulge in and become a master of while you are there: http://webtv.ac-versailles.fr/restauration/Boucherie-volailles?debut_articles=35#pagination_articles


----------



## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

Zaphh said:


> As much as (as a Phaeton owner) you certainly understand the difference between a Phaeton and other cars that may look more sexy at first glance, but lack the refinement of the Phaeton, you must understand the mission you have to educate your kids and (having the blessing of living in a wonderful part of France) teach them the difference between junk food and the much revered "mirepoix de légumes," which was invented where they live, and which is so exquisite with, say, "un gigot de 7 heures" http://www.meilleurduchef.com/cgi/mdc/l/fr/recettes/gigot_7_heures_ill.html
> 
> Another activity you should indulge in and become a master of while you are there: http://webtv.ac-versailles.fr/restauration/Boucherie-volailles?debut_articles=35#pagination_articles


Unfortunately or fortunately depending on the day, our children have now matured to young adulthood. They do not and have very seldomly partaken of junk (fast) food, even whilst in France (where MacDonald's is noticeably better to the UK outlets). I admit that the leg of lamb cooked very slowly is a family favourite but not, alas the mirepoix (mixed veg in stock).
Both of our children (but not my wife or myself) particularly enjoy Cassoulet, especially when visiting friends in Revel, just outside of Castelnaudary (The canal boat hire there is both good and inexpensive, especially compared to Carcassonne)
I feel however that we have perhaps hijacked this thread. Maybe we should start a new one comparing Phaeton owners favourite dishes/wines/restaurants?
You go first Pierre, I have no doubt reading previous posts on your gastronomic delights that an intriguing thread would develop.

Stu


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

Let's get back on topic then.

You may recall that last year, on page 3 of this thread, I had decided to remove the mesh and try to glue back the ferrule to the tube using some epoxy putty (cf. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...How-to-fix&p=67281830&viewfull=1#post67281830 )

This lasted until last May, when the putty broke (there was apparently too much extending force exerted on the ferrule when the boot would open).

So, I first tried to put more putty giving it a couple more millimeters so as to relieve the tension a bit, but this cracked again...

As a last resort, I decided to use the putty that had cured on the tube as a way to grasp the tube with a thin steel wire, then caught the ball by its ears and drove back the wire up to the tube and wrapped it around.

The wire goes around the ears of the ball and cannot escape thanks to the two lugs of the half plastic tube that normally hold the ball.

I hope my explanations are understandable. Here are two photos to illustrate them.



















The wire makes it impossible for the tube to be separated from the ball anymore.

I did not put these photos on this thread because I wanted to see how this new contraption would hold.

Well, we are now in August and the boot has been opened and closed many times now. Nothing has moved, so I am going to wrap some black fabric sticky tape around it and hope for the best.

Hope this helped more than the previous conversation 

P.


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## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

Zaphh said:


> Let's get back on topic then.
> 
> Hope this helped more than the previous conversation
> 
> P.


Okay Pierre,

job done, now for the new thread. Seriously I await with EAGER anticipation. For those who have not been fortunate to eat at a good restaurant in France (rather than a pretend French restaurant elsewhere) it is THE experience! The passion, the vision of the Chef, the quality of the ingredients, the culmination of arts, sorry I'm salivating.
I only get to Paris on rare occasions these days but boy trying to park a Phaeton IS worth the trouble!
New thread Pierre!!!

Stu


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## gilessav (Sep 7, 2011)

*Boot wiring harness*

Good afternoon all, 

Just a quick note to say a big thanks for the invaluable guides on this forum for removing the sheath around the wiring harness in the boot. 

I spent an hour this morning taking the boot liner apart and removing all the mesh upto the 'snake'. Seems the ball and ferrule are still connected to the tubing, with only a small rub mark on the inner tube where the mesh had frayed. I put this all back together and lubricated with plastic/rubber spray as directed, seems to be operating smoothly now so lets hope its a significant delaying provision at the worst. 

Thanks to the guides here what could have been a nightmare job without knowing where to start was for once an hours work or less, keep up the great work:thumbup:


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## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

gilessav said:


> Good afternoon all,
> 
> Just a quick note to say a big thanks for the invaluable guides on this forum for removing the sheath around the wiring harness in the boot.
> 
> ...


 Hey Giles, 

welcome to the wacky world that is Phaeton! I guess I'm lucky, 2 Phaeton 256k miles between them and the boot on both cars is perfect! Now, about those damned turbochargers............. 

Stu


----------



## musicman12345 (Jul 15, 2010)

*UK based Phaeton owners only  - Broken sleeve on electrical harness leading to trunk (boot)*

Hi all,

As has happened to a number of you previously, the sleeve and ball have separated in the boot of my 2004 Phaeton.

Has anyone had any luck approaching their UK VW Dealer or UK VW Customer service with a complaint on this appalling design fault??

It is ridiculous that such a basic fault should occur on a luxury £40k car (when new)!
I could understand it if it was a "wear and tear" issue.......or maybe the car should come with a warning to only open the boot once a month or something !

(1) If so, what response have you had ??

(2) Have you had an offer of a contribution from your UK VW Dealer / UK VW Customer Service towards the cost of repair???

(3) How much did this repair cost?

(4) My rear window has also cracked (what luck !) - how much you have to pay to replace this?

Thanks for your help and wisdom.


----------



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

musicman12345 said:


> ...the sleeve and ball have separated in the boot of my 2004 Phaeton.
> 
> It is ridiculous that such a basic fault should occur on a luxury £40k car* (when new)*!


Holy crow, are there still 2004 Phaetons in new car inventory in the UK? Even with 0 miles on them and a full new car warranty, I think they will have difficulty getting £40k for them.

Michael


----------



## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Musicman (sorry, you didn't give your name),

Sympathies on that. The forum members are conjuring up a 'new user's guide' thread so that owners can quickly get up to speed on Things That Really Really Ought To Be Checked Right Now, but it was too late for my car, and too late for you, it seems.

The previous owner of my car was dealer-invoiced £670 + VAT to replace the loom, and a search shows that even a used rear window glass from Poland is £200 (see this link), and that's assuming it shipped successfully, and plus freight and fitting.

At least the loom can be tackled successfully at low cost using the information within this thread.

Good luck.

Chris


----------



## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

PanEuropean said:


> Holy crow, are there still 2004 Phaetons in new car inventory in the UK? Even with 0 miles on them and a full new car warranty, I think they will have difficulty getting £40k for them.
> 
> Michael


Shouldn't they begin appreciating shortly?! After all, a 2005 Flying Spur costs £40k 

Chris


----------



## musicman12345 (Jul 15, 2010)

*VW dealer contribution on sleeve repair.....? Anyone had any success with this ....?*

Hi Chris, 
Thanks so much for getting back to me - I was afraid it would be something in that region costwise.....terrible - considering it's a VW design fault on such an expensive car.
I suppose it's always worth it to approach a VW dealer and see if they will get VW to go 50/50 on it......? 
Anyone got any thoughts or experience on this ??
Thanks again,
Andrew.


----------



## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

I believe that's a long shot, unless the dealership broke the glass (which they do from time to time!)

Chris

Edit - is the glass breakage covered under your road insurance policy? In UK it could be, depending on how skilfully the claim was presented, and usually shouldn't affect any no claims discount.


----------



## Paldi (Sep 4, 2004)

*I cut it off!*

Hi all....

My mesh had frayed to the point of "hanging by a thread" so I took action and cut it off! I followed the expedient and easy approach. In other words, I did not dismantle the trunk lid or the box that holds the inner part of the wire loom... I just used a pair of scissors to snip off the webbing that you can see. I hope that's enough and that what I can't see won't jam up inside and cause a problem. If it does, I'll let y'all know. I also sprayed the plastic tube with some lubricant.


----------



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hi Fred:

Great to hear from you again.

Michael


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## Victor R (Jan 7, 2010)

Just an FYI:

My harness was just replaced today under the Fidelity VW Real Driver (now Drive Easy) warranty. I have seen posts on this site noting it has been covered, but also some where it hasn't been. It is worth checking this for those of you that have this coverage.

Victor


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## johnt26 (Dec 3, 2009)

That's great Victor, I'm glad you had success!

As you probably remember, I was told that the warranty would not cover the harness which is one of the reasons I didn't re-up.

I hope others can use your sucess as an example if they are turned down by their appraiser.


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## pilgrim7777 (Oct 27, 2004)

I must say it is so annoying that VW will not recognise the electrical harness to the truck lid is a real problem. I have my one replaced yet again and still the vehicle has not yet done 40,000 miles, although I accept it is a MY2004 replaced yet again for the third time, I have tried to take care and complained that I thought a replacement every N number of years is too much.:banghead:


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Photos re-hosted.

Michael


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## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

going to have a shot at some preventive lubrication...what's the best technique? Take the boot lid liner off to get at the innards? If so, how is it fastened? Found a couple of screws...but I bet there's more to it than that!! 

Any advice gratefully received... 

Regards 

M


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## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

n968412L said:


> going to have a shot at some preventive lubrication...what's the best technique? Take the boot lid liner off to get at the innards? If so, how is it fastened? Found a couple of screws...but I bet there's more to it than that!!
> 
> Any advice gratefully received...
> 
> ...


 Mike, 

you sly old dog, plain package arrived then?!! :laugh::what: 

Stu


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## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

EnglishPhaeton said:


> Mike,
> 
> you sly old dog, plain package arrived then?!! :laugh::what:
> 
> Stu


 Oh yes.... but it's much smaller than I thought it would be...


----------



## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

n968412L said:


> Oh yes.... but it's much smaller than I thought it would be...


 Ah well............ 

when I bought mine "over the counter" I stipulated "extra large" :laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh: 

Sorry to all those not privy to our Northern (English) sense of humour, but basically I have a larger package than Mike!  

Stu


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## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

Must be why you need a LWB...


----------



## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

n968412L said:


> Must be why you need a LWB...


 Ouch! 

 

Stu


----------



## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

Bump 

anyone got any experience of taking this part of the boot apart before I try my luck...?? 

Thanks 

M


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

There's no particular problem, apart from the fact that the lid liner fixings required more force to pull off than I expected. 

Chris


----------



## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

n968412L said:


> Bump
> 
> anyone got any experience of taking this part of the boot apart before I try my luck...??
> 
> ...


 Mike, 

TOC retrofitting warning triangle. Looks a doddle, but so did opening and closing the headlight washer covers! 

Stu


----------



## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

Stu - good spot - thanks very much! 
Regards 
M


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## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

Just had a crack at putting some PTFE lubricant in the cable cassette as preventative maintenance. On both my GP0 (MY05) and GP1 (MY09) both cassettes are liberally dusted with graphite powder - and seem in perfect condition. So maybe the factory cracked lubrication of this in 05 and it's been OK since? 

regards 

M


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## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

n968412L said:


> Just had a crack at putting some PTFE lubricant in the cable cassette as preventative maintenance. On both my GP0 (MY05) and GP1 (MY09) both cassettes are liberally dusted with graphite powder - and seem in perfect condition. So maybe the factory cracked lubrication of this in 05 and it's been OK since?
> 
> regards
> 
> M


 I've had no problems with either of mine (05 and 06 but both MY 06) touch wood. 

Stu


----------



## Victor R (Jan 7, 2010)

> So maybe the factory cracked lubrication of this in 05 and it's been OK since?


 Both of mine are '05's. One needed the harness repaced (discussed earlier in this thread). One has not. That one is a late MY '05, so perhaps... 

On the other hand, the second car has had far less use than the one that needed to have the harness replaced, too. 

Victor


----------



## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

My MY2006 broke... no sign of graphite, or any other lubricant. 

Chris


----------



## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

Odd... poor quality control when these cassettes are assembled originally? 

Anyhow, hope mixture of graphite and PTFE works OK... and I'm now wondering if the graphite was graphite or just worn grey plastic powder!! 

Not taking it apart again to check. 

M


----------



## DNAguy (Oct 13, 2009)

*Repair Denied in US for Platinum Warrantee*

My claim was denied on the basis the it was "wiring." Cost me $2,200 for repair. This is clearly a design defect because it happens so frequently. 

Buck


----------



## Ekremsky (Sep 8, 2010)

*Trunk lid wiring*

Hi, as I read I see that many people had a problem with the wiring on the trunk lid,I had mine too:first rear lights stopped to light on,after that the other lights,after that the lid did not close,and when I opened the lid's wiring harness I saw a very dissapointing picture,some 10-12 wires were cut-off: 
 
after several days of repairing and soldering I made this: 

 
 
 
 


It is not original,but everything works fine now,only the white tube needs to be painted to black,and all cost me about $20  

Ekremsky


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

A neat and effective solution... 

CB


----------



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Archival Note:*

A related discussion, with a tale of woe caused by poor quality workmanship when the wiring harness was replaced: Puzzling Trunk Problems.

Michael


----------



## TampaAPB (Jul 18, 2009)

*How do you get VW Real Driver to cover a new wiring harness?*

Hi Everyone - I have read through this forum and the myriad of ways people have addressed the trunk lid wiring harness problem. On my '04 Phaeton about a week ago, I noticed the left hand side of the trunk lid was not flush with the body panels, opening the boot I saw the plastic tube was bent and had wedged itself into the area where the hinge/water seals are, causing the slight protrusion I observed. Although the mesh has long since frayed away, the tube had always looks reasonably intact until last week so I left it alone sans some occasional graphite lubricant. 

So now that I can see exposed wires (thankfully all the trunk wiring is intact - there were no splits or frays), I have a choice as I see it:

1. Try one of the home remedies suggested in the forum
2. See if my real driver platinum will cover it - I have 3 years remaining on mine!

I think the right answer is to go with #2 - I can always go route 1 if denied. It looks like many of these claims have been denied in reading the forum. What's important to say or do in connection with the dealer making the claim in order to have success going route 2 - any recommendations?


----------



## Victor R (Jan 7, 2010)

In my opinion, there is not much you as an individual can do to get the warranty company to cover this. I think it all boils down to relationships between the dealership and the warranty company. Part of this is directly related to how much business/interaction a dealership has with the warranty company, so in that sense, the larger the dealership, the better. Part may also be how much the dealership emphasizes to service writers that they need to "push" the warranty company.

In your case, I see two conflicting issues:


the mesh harness has been removed prior to asking for warranty work. I could see that being interpreted as interfering ("voiding") the warranty on that piece.



on the other hand, the damage is sufficiently severe to affect how the lid sits. Definitely something that should qualify.


Good luck! Mine was covered under warranty. If yours is not, brace yourself for an at least $1500 hit.

Victor


----------



## Sinco01 (Feb 10, 2013)

*Trunk wiring leading to Brake Light Problems*

I've had similar problems with the boot harness which I think have damaged the boot release (manual rather then automatic) - boot now only opens with a key. Anyway the boot harness is now replaced and wiring ok but I have brake lights on all the time once the engine has started running. 

The diagnostics say faulty brake light switch which I have replaced twice with genuine vw parts. Could there be a connection between electronic control unit in the boot/trunk which may have got damaged by wiring shorting in the past and what now appears to be some kind of malfunctioning of the traction control? This is a manual hood rather than a power hood. 

Any ideas or similar problems anyone?


----------



## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi (sorry, I don't know your name),

It is worth noting that there are two wires in the trunk harness of the same colour. Crossing them during repair could affect the operation of both the lights and the trunk lock, as you describe. Post #29 in this thread refers: Broken Sleeve on Electrical Harness leading to Trunk Lid How to fix TOC Photos done

Just out of interest, did you have to carry out the whole steering column removal procedure to replace the brake switch as per the repair manual, or did you find a work-around?

Chris


----------



## Sinco01 (Feb 10, 2013)

*Trunk wiring leading to brake light problems?*

Thanks Chris

name is Andy sorry I missed it off.

The replacement wiring harness only had one red and blue wire and I had the brake light issue before I replaced it. When I traced the spare wire back it went back to the same wire - this may have been a previous repair but I had the car for 4 years now without lighting issues until recently and previously it had been vw serviced from new with no obvious reference to the repair in the service history.

We managed to get the brake light switch changed without removing the steering column by pulling out but not disconnecting the fuse box. 

I'm pretty convinced the problem lies in one of the electronics boxes but don't know which one and would be happy to be proved wrong. 

Andy


----------



## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Andy,

The brake lights are supplied with voltage by the Left and Right Rear Light modules J690 and J691 and the Left and Right Rear Lid light modules J692 and J693. They are switched on by individual 'analogue' wires (ie on or off, not CAN-bus) from the Central Convenience controller which lives on the shelf in the trunk.

It is possible but not likely that all four light control modules have jammed on simultaneously, which makes it more likely that the reason the brake lights are on is that the Central Convenience controller is telling them all to light.

It does this on the presence of the 'analogue' voltage signal from the brake light switch (+12V means 'on') fed from 5A fuse SB15. This wire also connects to the Trailer controller (if fitted), the ABS controller and the ECU, all of which could plausibly put up the 'on' command voltage if there was a short circuit.

The first place to look for short circuits is on a VCDS scan, since most wires are monitored by the diagnostics system. Do you have access to a VAG-COM cable? If so please post a full scan.

As a first physical test I think you could pull fuse SB15 in the panel under the steering column and see if the brake lights stay off. This fuse lists as feeding the ABS, trailer module etc, but I believe this is only in reference to the brake switch.

I can mirror the test on my car tomorrow to see if I am misleading you.

Chris


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

I confirm that pulling fuse SB15 turns off the brake lights as above and also puts up ABS, ESP and Suspension Level warning lights on the panel. There's no Brake warning light lit.

The car still starts and drives, but with no brake lights.

Chris


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## Sinco01 (Feb 10, 2013)

Thanks Chris

It's going to be a couple of days before I get the opportunity to look at this again but will respond when I do.

Andy


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## johnt26 (Dec 3, 2009)

*Trunk Harness Replacement DIY*

Trunk Harness DIY, Broken Sleeve on Electrical Harness leading to the Trunk lid.

We decided to replace the trunk wiring harness after too many failed repairs. Plus we wanted to return to the factory look.

A few things we learned along the way:

There are 22 wires on the harness for a Phaeton with the power trunk; three pairs of wires are identical. The two that are important are the ones that Michael pointed out in post 29 *here*. The other two pairs are probably insignificant but we used the ohmmeter on them and labeled them on both harnesses just in case. I believe that they run the brake, reverse and taillights that light simultaneously regardless if they are right or left.

Almost everything went well, we did have a problem that was a VW part issue that I’ll cover after the DIY.

We ordered the short harness from Zeb at 1st VW Parts; the part number for the Phaeton with the power trunk was 000-970-053-A, it was $390.16. There were not any harnesses in the USA so the part was ordered from Germany. It arrived within a week, it was a full harness so I contacted Zeb and he said maybe that’s what they are sending out now and he advised me to use it.
Here is a picture(note that the tab on the upper left of the cassette was broken):









*I obtained this crimping tool from Amazon, about $60, a proper crimping tool is key to this repair, I wish I had ordered one years ago.
*









*I disconnected both batteries, starter then comfort, negative first. Be careful, the battery cover on my comfort battery positive terminal was black.
*
*I cut down the harness in the car and the new harness and attached the butt connectors on the kitchen table to save time lying on my back in the trunk. I decided to go against the TSB and not stagger the connectors for ease of install as I had a large cavity under the hat shelf that would accept the repaired harness with the butt connectors together.*










*We attached the new trunk harness to the Phaeton’s wiring harness and crimped the connectors. A magnifying glass, good light and/or young eyes help to identify the subtleties in the colors of the wires.*










*The finished product and a shot of the harness tucked under the hat shelf. *










On to the testing…all the lights worked perfectly, we thought we were golden! Then we pressed the trunk close button, the trunk closed about halfway, the latch extended then everything came to an abrupt stop.

We thought, “Oh no, where did we go wrong!” The troubleshooting started; after spending a half of a day tracing all the wires and verifying the connections we made, checking fuses, wiring diagrams and running a VCDS scan that yielded a report that the trunk latch had a “mechanical failure”, we thought, really?, what are the chances?

After much consternation and gnashing of teeth the last thing we checked was the new harness. We discovered that the new VW harness was wired incorrectly, the plug that connects to the latch mechanism was the issue! Slot ten should have the green wire with the white stripe and slot five should be empty, they wired it backwards!

*The new harness with the wire incorrectly inserted in slot 5 :*










*The old harness with the wire correctly inserted into slot 10 (also note the box with the part number):*











My local VW Dealer was nice enough to fix the plug, no charge, as I didn’t have the proper tool for the micro connector removal (I ordered a set since). There is a post about that here. Kudos to Thompson VW in Warrington, PA! It was a Saturday and the Phaeton Tech was off. The Tech that fixed the plug didn’t know enough about the Phaeton to garner a guess as to what would happen if we pressed the trunk close button with the latch already extended, so we took the car home.

We had a heck of a time getting the trunk lid in sequence again. We tried all the normal ideas on the forum including opening the trunk and pressing the remote open button and even re-adapting the trunk controller. We ran through the output tests for controller 46 on the VCDS but the latch just didn’t want to behave and stayed extended. We then ran the trunk through several open and shut cycles using the key, muscle and hope and suddenly the trunk was happy and everything returned to normal.

My suggestion is: trust, but verify, that the new trunk latch plug is wired the same way as the one you are removing to save yourself from the pain we endured. The tail lights are not a real issue. 

Other than the problem we had with the harness, the job was fairly simple and straightforward. We are delighted to have our Phaeton back to factory specs!

Special thanks to my wife Sherri for all her help with the install and daughter Logan for lending her eagle eyes for wire color/stripe identification. Unfortunately first assistant Garret was busy the day the install took place.

If anyone decides to tackle this job and is close enough for me to assist in person or if not, by phone, drop me a PM, everything is so much easier the second time around!


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi John,

Thank you for a very helpful post. This is one DIY job that ought to save a few hundred over the dealer invoice and which helps give a sense of ownership and satisfaction. Also family bonding. Nice flowers, by the way! 

Chris


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## chillson (Sep 6, 2010)

Nice job John! If you dig up the post about my harness replacement (maybe part of this thread, I didn't look), you will see that the first harness I received from Zeb had a broken tab/flange also. I sent the entire kit back and he replaced it. I am on my second Phaeton now (with original harness) and I figure I have about 20K miles to go before it will need to be replaced. It isn't broken yet, but the mesh is fraying. I am trying to protect it with strategically placed wraps of Gorilla duct tape. We'll see how long it lasts. If I try to do the repair myself, I will certainly give you a ring. Thanks...Jay


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## johnt26 (Dec 3, 2009)

Thanks Chris on the flowers, 25 roses, one for each year of Sherri putting up with me and my car fetish!:thumbup:

It was our 25th Wedding Anniversary, what better way to celebrate then hanging out in the trunk of a Phaeton for two days (with the Jersey handle disconnected ! Michael has to update the label file to "bodies" in the trunk! )

Jay,
I did notice that you had the same broken tab issue with your first harness, I thought I may have gotten yours but your first harness was a partial (short) unit, correct? I decided to keep the harness and use the half of the old cassette with the tabs on it.


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## ernieo (Mar 8, 2013)

*Trunk Sleeve*

I just repaired my sleeve with rubber cement. Here is what I have noticed. The tube is not glued into the round holder. The round holder has a knot inside it that accepts a the tube that has a hole it to fit in the knot. What happens is that the fiber sleeve tears and then jams inside the box. When the trunk opens it pulls the fiber sleeve which causes the tube to pull and then break at the hole, which then pulls away from the round holder. 

I just thought of another easier fix. Just punch a whole in the tube on the other side of the where the original hole was. Then you just have to pop it into the round holder, aligning the hole with the knot. Its that simple.

If I can get the pictures up, I'll add them. It's really that easy.
Good luck.

Ernie O.


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## Chris Darby (Aug 13, 2014)

Bought my 2007 3 litre diesel with a known problem of no power boot, thanks to this excellent forum i crossed my fingers and cut off the plastic mesh to find 5 broken wires and 3 with cracked insulation. Crimped the wires, followed the reset procedures and all working. Thanks for all the advice. Next job is to try and get phone connecting.


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## Daytonabridge (Jan 19, 2014)

Good luck with that Chris , if you have an old Nokia it will pair and work fine even displaying text messages , anything else won't connect !!


Graham .


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## Phaeton2 (May 18, 2013)

*Repair Wire options*

I disassembled the assembly the harness is toast. Wires busted everywhere. I had at least 15 broken connections. Anyone know the original properties of the wiring (PVC coated, etc)? I see it is likely DIN standard. I'm not going to spend over $300 on a new harness. I'm going to build my own by removing all of the old wiring in the sleeve and soldering back to the original harness outside of the sleeve. Hoping to improve the design by using a different type of wire so this doesn't happen again. Any suggestions?


Source from mcmaster-carr for robotics grade cable:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-electrical-wire/=tlzydq

I see some suggested wiring properties here:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=511230

Text copied below:

And now I will bore everyone with talk of wire... 

PTFE-Insulated Wire
In case anyone else with frayed trunk wiring is looking to use Teflon-insulated wire for this repair, I did some searching yesterday for ways to make waterproof splices that will stick to the surface of PTFE. It's possible to do so by chemically etching the PTFE surface first; after that's done, most conventional adhesives will work. Here's an example of an etching process, which seems pretty time-consuming.

Many sources also mention that the use of regular wire strippers on PTFE insulation is likely to nick the silver plating on the copper strands, but this page recommends an inexpensive Imperial brand stripper that you can get at McMaster-Carr.

XLPE-Insulated Wire
I mentioned XLPE (crosslinked polyethylene) insulation in an earlier post - it meets SAE standards for wiring in the engine bay (-51 deg. C to 125 deg. C). It's readily available from several sources, including KayJay Company and Pegasus Auto Racing.

If you're going to go with XLPE, you need to get the thinnest specified insulation (TXL) in order to make a bundle that passes through the rubber covering from the body to the trunk lid. The 18-gauge XLPE-insulated wire I have in the garage is apparently either GXL or SXL, the medium and heavy thicknesses. These wires make too big a bundle.

XLPVC-Insulated Wire
There's also irradiated PVC, sometimes abbreviated XLPVC. It's PVC that has been exposed to electron beam radiation, making it tougher, more heat-resistant, and more abrasion-resistant than regular PVC. This wire (-55 deg. C. to 80 deg. C) can't take engine bay heat like XLPE can, but the thickness of XLPVC insulation is comparable to that of PTFE insulation, which means I'll be able to keep the bundle diameter down. A local supplier has seven different colors of a mil-spec XLPVC wire available. It's about one-third the cost of Teflon wire, and it doesn't require chemical etching to get heat shrink adhesives to bond to it.

So it looks like I'll be going with the mil-spec XLPVC-insulated wire instead of Teflon. I have no doubt that Teflon would last longer in this application, but XLPVC would allow me to make waterproof splices much more easily and at lower cost.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

*Archival Note:*

To support this discussion, I note that the official VW documents relating to harness repairs are posted in this thread:
Wiring Harness Repair Guidelines (essential reading for mods and retrofits)

Chris


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## Phaeton2 (May 18, 2013)

*Repair of harness DIY*

Hey, I repaired my harness for $30 and 16 hours of my time. It's a big task but much cheaper than buying the VW factory harness. Upon disassembly, I found wire insulation cracked. Also some wires were totally severed. I attribute this to a bad design by VW. The black rigid tube (between trunk and car) and the black box (under trunk carpet) houses the wiring. With time the cables insulation will break from flexing. With use the cables will snap. When the insulation breaks you can have shorts happening in the harness. Possible symptoms of a broken harness are no trunk lights, no release of the trunk using the remote, and if you have the power trunk option...no operation. My neighbor also has a Phaeton with the power trunk and his trunk actually locked shut and could not be opened with the key. It was major surgery to open the trunk so I heard. I believe his latch retraction mechanism shorted causing the trunk to pull tight. 

Included are photos of the wiring condition. 





















To repair, I replaced the wiring with "continous-flex" cable which is intended for use in robotics which can withstand 1 million cycles. The cable is sheathed in an outer jacket which must be removed to fit. The manufacture doesn't recommend doing this, however, our cables are not going to see 1 million cycles so I think it is fine. The selection of the cables and procedure was recommended by a friend who designs automation machinery for factories and similar cables. Note, the cable will be bent to a tighter radius than permitted by the cable manufacture. Again,this is not a heavy duty use so I think it is ok.

For a non-powered trunk we have the following cables:

two- 12 gauge or 14 gauge wires (existing wiring is DIN spec and is not labeled so sizes are approximate. I measured them with a caliper)
ten - 20 gauge
one - 14 gauge

I bought from McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com) the following replacement cable. 

1 five foot long continous-flex unshielded 20 Ga, 12 Wire cable, Part # 8082K14
1 five foot long continous-flex unshielded 14 Ga, 3 Wire cable, Part # 8082K33

both are Chainflex made by Igus. This is not listed on McMaster-Carr

I also bought friction tape, part # 76465A1. This is similar to the black cloth tape which is wrapped around the wiring harness in the car. The only exception is this is 3/4" wide vs 1/4" wide. 


I actually used about 4 feet from each cable. Both cables are braided (wires twist inside outer sheathing). I removed the sheathing from both cables and used the 12 wire cable ( Part # 8082K14) to replace the ten 20 Gauge and one 14 gauge cable (two 20 gauge wires combined together). I left this cable braided (this allows the cable to flex better). I used 2 of the 14 gauge wires from the 3 wire bundle ( Part # 8082K33) but flattened the wire to go along side the 12 wire braided bundle ( Part # 8082K14) If I were to do it again, I would buy 2 straight continous-flex 14 gauge wires because it is difficult to straighten the braided cable. The new harness was a very tight fit to get fit inside the black rigid plastic tube (from car to trunk), but I got it in. If you buy different cables pay close attention to the outside diameter of the cable. Some cables have thicker insulation. These are cables have very thin insulation, however, the braid adds thickness because the wires are braided around a PVC core (which makes the cables more durable).

Below is the install photo of the new wiring prepared inside the rectangular box.











All wires regardless of condition were replaced. All connections are soldered and shrink-wrapped. 

Couple of observations. On the end of the black rigid tube (inserted into the rectangular housing), the existing harness was taped with friction tape to hold the black braided sheathing around the wiring. The friction tape was installed very wide. You'll see when the tube is fully compressed into the rectangular housing, the cable must bend very tightly at this junction (photo above). If you look at my first photo this is problem area because of the stress to this area. On the new harness, I shorted the length of this junction to allow the cables to have a more natural and less restrictive bend. I only wrapped the cables a few times with the 3/4" friction tape (total length was about 3/4"). I then slid the black braided cable housing over the friction tape and then use a piece of heat shrink to clamp the braided cable to the friction tape. The friction tape causes friction and limits the wires from bending (but is necessary), while the heat shrink allows the cable to move more. 

Lastly, because the wiring fit so tight into the rigid black plastic tubing, I didn't tighten the zip tie on the underside of the deck (below glass) (see photo below). This should give a little more flexibility to the cable at this end.


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## Phaeton2 (May 18, 2013)

I'm not sure if I follow you. You can't rotate the tube because it has a curvature to it. It will not slide in the housing if you attempt to rotate. If they are separating, you could try and spread epoxy over the plastic to mend it back together. It may not be a long term fix, but might buy you some time. If you can include a photo maybe I could be of better help.


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## Paldi (Sep 4, 2004)

After reading post #199 and some prior posts it does appear that a split or crack develops at the bottom of the tube at or just above the nub inside the ball socket. This is the nub that holds the bottom of the tube into the socket assembly. 

The crack in the tube will eventually open completely around the tube and thus it will gradually separate and expose the wires. That is what is beginning to happen with mine. I can see the partly open crack and the wires. Pretty soon the crack will go all around the tube and it will pull loose from the ball socket, perhaps leaving the bottom 1/4 inch or so of the plastic tube inside the socket..

Now assuming the nub molded inside the ball socket really is the only thing that holds the tube into the ball socket, it appears to me that if I trim off the bottom of the cracked tube, basically cleaning up the area that cracked and mangled, I will be left with a tube that is about 1/4 inch shorter.

I can drill a new hole in the tube to fit the nub in the ball socket, and that will effectively make the repair. Drilling the new hole in the tube will necessitate sliding a half-round piece of metal pipe up inside the plastic tube between the inside of the tube and covering the wires, to protect the wiring when I drill into the plastic tube. 

The big question is will a 1/4 inch shorter tube be OK? Or will it be too short and pop off when the trunk lid opens?


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## Phaeton2 (May 18, 2013)

I would be surprised if you can fit a tube inside the sleeve to protect the wires. I also think cutting the sleeve and pinning it will not be very durable or rigid. Fitting a tube inside the sleeve is impossible without cutting the wires. You might be able to take a thin sheet of plastic and bend it a tube shape to avoid cutting the wires. Still doubt it would fit. The wiring is fairly tight in the sleeve already. Plus I don't know if you can easily separate the ball and sleeve. Cutting the tube 1/4 inch short might end up more than this to fit the pin. You might have a little play but I don't know for sure. If you remove the trunk trim and the ball above the trim and can see if you have any extra play. I don't know the exact nature of your issue but if it where me I would epoxy the crack taking care not to get epoxy on the wires inside the sleeve. If you accidentally glue the wires they will not move freely in the sleeve and will in time damage the wiring.


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## Paldi (Sep 4, 2004)

The crack begins in the front of the tube where you can see it and eventually propagates all around the tubing which then separates from the ball. I don't think I can glue the tube back to the remaining tube remnant that is still hooked inside the ball. That part has to be removed and the remaining tube has to be slid into the ball and re-glued. If the is a "nub" or "tit" or "hook" molded inside the ball it will need to be either cut off or a hole will have to be punched into the side of the tube to accommodate it.

It's pretty cold here. I hope it will wait until spring!


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## Phaeton2 (May 18, 2013)

I don't exactly follow, but if you look at my second to last photo that I posted you will see what the ball looks like. If you take off the trunk trim, you will see the housing which the ball fits into. That can be removed so you have better access. No wiring needs to be disconnected to do that.


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## Paldi (Sep 4, 2004)

When the tube breaks, it pulls out of the ball socket, or cracks in half just outside the socket. See the picture below: That one just cracked and pulled out of the socket. The tube end is mangled up a bit.










You can see the "hole" where the retaining nub or "knot" fits into the tube.









The tip of the screwdriver points to the retaining nub or "knot."

It appears the proper approach is to trim off the tube end, if needed, and drill a new hole to capture that retainer "knot" or nub. No glue or epoxy required.


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## Paldi (Sep 4, 2004)

I have a new theory on a temporary fix. I plan to wrap the exposed wires with electrical tape increasing the diameter of the wiring harness bundle to roughly the same as the inside diameter of the plastic tube. Then I'll slide the tube down over the taped area on the harness and "pinch" it tight with a small hose clamp. The idea is to prevent the tube from riding up the wire harness exposing the wires to flexing, bending and breakage.


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## kentuckyphaeton (Nov 11, 2016)

The part number for the non-power trunk harness has changed to 3D1-970-053-AM, just to save you all the headache.


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## rjm0831 (Sep 19, 2009)

*Broken Sleeve on Electrical Harness Leading to Tunk Lid*

I took Paldi’s approach . . . maybe a couple steps further. I removed the rotating ball altogether plus I gingerly removed the long plastic sleeve with an Exacto Knife, enclosing the entire bundle of 23 wires with black electrical tape. By removing the black plastic ball along with the long plastic sleeve, I uncovered several breaks in more than one wire. These broken wires were soldered back together where possible. I did have to add some wire extensions in order to prevent tension on stretched wires.

I had earlier removed the trunk/boot lid inner cowling to reveal the black rectangular box into which the 23-wire bundle is housed in part. I had to remove the entirety of the mesh sheathing that encompasses a large portion of the 23-wire bundle to see if any other breaks existed. They did and I soldered them back together as well. 

When I first bought my used 2004 V8 Phaeton it already had nearly 170,000 miles on it. Even so, the trunk/boot lid worked electronically including the lock and the auto open/close function. In short order, though, it began to operate intermittently and, finally, it stopped working altogether. On rare occasions it would decide to work but I believe it was my periodically manually opening and closing the lid that caused wires to reconnect but only briefly.

I apologize that I did not take any progressive photos of my repair efforts. The trunk/boot lid has performed without flaw since my mid-summer 2016 repair. The taped harness seems to move fairly freely with the trunk openings and closings. Still, I’m sure that at some point it may fail again but I am confident and comfortable in the knowledge that I have removed most of the friction points that caused the initial issues. I hope this is helpful to other Phaeton owners suffering this same problem.

Ron


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## SoundsoftheSuburbs (Jan 17, 2017)

*How much does this cost to replace?*

How much does it cost to have the mesh sleeve issue resolved? My future issue is pictured:


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## Victor R (Jan 7, 2010)

As noted in an earlier post on this thread, mine was replaced under warranty in December 2012. At that time, four years ago, the cost (paid by the VW DriveEasy warranty) came to $1,500. Big bucks to fix a mechanical issue in a give or take now 12 year old car. 

Also, I was told that the technician really struggled with the install...

Victor


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Mercedes-Benz Enthusiast said:


> How much does it cost to have the mesh sleeve issue resolved? My future issue is pictured:


Be careful. If you pinch the wires with the edge of the trunk lid, you could break the rear window and that costs $1195.00 at the dealer just for the glass:

https://parts.vw.com/a/Volkswagen_2004_Phaeton/_51505_5953616/BACK-GLASS/9235630.html

The dealer I go to charges more than the listed price because of sales tax and other stuff. 

VW Parts Outlet has it for less, but it's still over $800.00

I would (and have) replace the harness as per the instructions in this thread. 

The part number I used is 3D1970053AN.

The first one I bought from ECS came without the wiring for the escape handle but it wasn't hard to add:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/wiring/3d1970053an/

I bought the second harness from another company and it's the same part number but came with the escape handle wiring:

EDIT 2019-05-15: Not correct harness after all. The VW box has the correct part number but the harness inside is not for my trunk lid. Still trying to decide what to do about it. I would have to add 6 wires or more to the new harness to make it work. I would probably have to replace 6 or more wires in the original harness also and the rest of them would be 15 years old. 

You could reengineer it but will have to figure out how to keep the wiring from being pinched or caught on something in the trunk.

Edit 2019-05-15: I have been thinking about how to redesign it. The tube on 8486 is about an inch longer than necessary. If the tube was shorter the wires would have more slack instead of being doubled up right as they exit the tube. That 180 degree bend is right where at least 5 of my wires are broken. The giant Yellow/Red wire is bent over and the insulation is gone from that area. It's ready to snap also. 

-Eric


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## entwisi (Feb 19, 2013)

Mine has done the same, what I do is hold the bottom of the broken pipe out with my left hand as I press the button with my right, as the boot closes I hook the pipe inside the boot and withdraw my arm before the boot closes on it... I'm quite adept at it now and can almost do it without thinking.. its been like that for ~ 9 months now with no ill effects on functionailty


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## SoundsoftheSuburbs (Jan 17, 2017)

Thank you


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Keep in mind that if there is a special way to close your trunk (boot) lid that _you_ always have to be the one closing it. You can't ever let anybody else touch it. 

I had one guy at a tire shop try to close the trunk by hand. I opened it to give him my spare tire to repair and he instinctively reached up to close the lid by hand. He pushed it down a little and I had to do the mini-adaptation. 

Good luck whatever you decide. 

-Eric


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## jenvee828 (Jun 25, 2011)

*Photo Re-Host Request/Follow-Up*

I'm a bit late to the party, but thought I'd reach out because my temporary fix from a couple years back is eroding.

Previously I removed all the ratty mesh, mended the cracked insulation, and was able to wire-tie my tube back to the ball with nimble fingers and some patience. It was summer in Georgia and the best I could do while sweating everywhere in the blanket-like humidity... 

Now, though, more cracks have developed and I'm starting to receive messages intermittently again after closing trunk (Headlight range control! Running gear workshop! Brakelight out! Ahhhh!), and I better address it before I can't open the trunk at all.

I'm interested in the fix by Phaeton2, post #203... Is this still holding up? Has anyone else tried with success or found a better solution? 

If I could get those photos re-hosted, I'd be very appreciative!


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Image code corrected in Post #203.

Chris


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## Melvivio (Feb 12, 2017)

One of the very little weak points on this car. mine is cracking as well.. If you don't have a power trunk there is a repair set which is reasonable priced from the dealer. Part# 3D1 970 053 AM. Europrice €298,- (-18% dealer discount) excluding VAT.


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## jenvee828 (Jun 25, 2011)

Thanks, Chris!


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

For anybody trying to repair the wires, I came across this very simple wire repair system. I haven't tried it myself yet, but I'm going to buy some.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

invisiblewave said:


> For anybody trying to repair the wires, I came across this very simple wire repair system. I haven't tried it myself yet, but I'm going to buy some.


These remind me of video splices.

I think Autozone sells them but not in a large kit. You need three hands. One hand for each wire and one hand holding the lighter or butane torch.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> I would (and have) replace the harness as per the instructions in this thread.
> 
> The part number I used is 3D1970053AN.
> 
> ...


I am right at the beginning of working on the harness in 8486 and the new harness is missing at least two wires. The plug for the motor/latch in 8486 has a few more wires in it than the new harness has in that same connector. 

The original harness has several broken wires above the tube and most of them are wires that were repaired before. If the wires are only broken above the tube, I will repair them once again with wires left over from the harness replacement on 7579. 

I decided to update this to inform others that even if you order what you think is the correct harness, you may have to improvise to make it work. My new harness has no label on it with a part number so I can't even be sure it has the same part number as the label on the box. I think the dealer had a different part number but I should be able to make this harness work if I end up replacing the original.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> I am right at the beginning of working on the harness in 8486 and the new harness is missing at least two wires. The plug for the motor/latch in 8486 has a few more wires in it than the new harness has in that same connector.


According to the Bentley wiring diagrams, all of the wires in that connector go to the Trunk Controller for Phaetons that have a trunk controller. In the Bentley manual, all pins are used except pin 5. I just verified that on 8486. 

On Phaetons without the trunk controller, all of the wires in that connector go to the Comfort Controller. On those, the connector is pinned from 1 - 7 with a brown and yellow wire in #5. The Bentley has an asterisk that says the wire in #5 is only through October 2003. Pins 8, 9 and 10 are missing. I just verified that on the new harness. 

The label on the box says I have a 3D1-970-053-AN but the harness inside is for a Phaeton with the emergency escape handle but without a trunk controller built before October 2003. 

Now I have to go out to my poor Phaeton and buzz all the wiring to see if I can just repair the broken wires or if I have to modify the new harness. The giant red and yellow wire isn't broken yet but is ready to snap. The other broken wires are small ones. 

If I use the new harness, I will have to re-pin that entire connector and add the missing closing button wiring. 

Buyer beware. I don't blame the vendor. I blame the person that put the harness in the box without verifying it.

-Eric


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> The label on the box says I have a 3D1-970-053-AN but the harness inside is for a Phaeton with the emergency escape handle but without a trunk controller built before October 2003. -Eric


7zap says that I ordered the correct harness (see #14):

https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/usa/phaeton/phae/2004-258/9/971-971083/#14

The VW parts website doesn't show which cars it's used on though:

https://parts.vw.com/p/Volkswagen__/WIRING/51454411/3D1970053AN.html

It's interesting that 4 people have looked at it recently.

-Eric


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## richmondvatdi (May 17, 2003)

*Replaced Harness-No lock actuator or hydraulic pump*

I was quite meticulous in replacing the trunk harness (with power trunk). First I numbered every wire on the old harness, putting two numbers on each wire. I put one number label on one side of where I was planning to cut and a second label on the opposite side of the cut. So when I removed the "bad" end of the harness from the trunk, all 22 wires were labeled with a number. I printed out a third set of numbers and gave them to wife and son (my eagle-eyed, non-colorblind assistants). Then I laid the old harness next to the new harness and asked them to number the new harness by matching the wires by color. They actually found three pairs of wires with a common color and not the one (maybe red/blue?) pair that I've read about. There were two: blue and red, gray and blue, and black and blue. I differentiated the similarly-colored ones by checking continuity and figuring out which pin each went to in the original harness, and then numbering the new harness wire accordingly. I am 99.99% certain that I wound up with a new harness that was numbered identically to the old harness. I used a ratcheting type crimp tool to install connectors on the new harness and then crawled into the trunk to finish the other end of the crimp connections (not easy when you're 6'3" tall).

After connecting everything back I closed the trunk and pressed the trunk button on the remote. Voila! A deafening silence ensued. No hydraulic pump noise. No noise from the lock actuator. Ran a VCDS Autoscan and got a bunch of fault codes because the battery was disconnected for days. Cleared codes and rescanned. The one fault in 46-Central Convenience that came back was:

1 Fault Found:
00896 - Trunk Lock Unit (F256) 
008 - Implausible Signal

I tried running the output tests for 46. The lights appear to be connected correctly, but none of the opening and closing stuff shows any signs of life. I'm assuming I should try to do the adaptation for trunk opening/closing but based on my output tests I doubt anything is going to happen. 

I'm guessing it could maybe be one or more of my crimp connections is bad. What's the best way to check them? One end of the wire is easy to find (at the plug) but the other end is presumably buried deep within the car. I'm not an electrical guy so I don't know, but is there a tool for checking continuity of a crimp splice without penetrating the outer jacket of the wire? Is that a dumb question?

What would you do next?

Paul


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Paul,

I have to say that the trunk controller works in mysterious ways. Sometimes you have to creep up on it (so to speak) and take it by surprise, after which it suddenly works again.

By that, I mean it is susceptible to faults that are not related to hard defects like broken wires or faulty micro-switches. Bugs, in effect.

It sounds like you took great care to match the wiring harness, so let's set that aside for the moment. In a car that hasn't had a harness replacement, the usual defects are (1) low battery voltage and (2) standing idle. These two may in fact be the same defect.

Sometimes the trunk lid will work perfectly for months, then have a week or two of not responding. Typically, you then open it half way, use the remote key fob to try to activate it, then if nothing happens shut it manually. After that it sometimes resumes. Alternatively, leave it half open and clear the fault codes using a VCDS. Then sometimes the button will work again.

Hard faults are distributed between the microswitch behind the trunk lid logo, the lock release actuator and (more rarely) the hydraulic unit. Of course, the fuse may also fail.

Soft faults seem linked to the battery age and voltage. If the car's batteries are older than 5 years, it's simply not worth the aggro of continuing to use them. Just replace them with the exact spec types. The left one _must_ be AGM to help reduce the 300ms voltage dip during startup, when many consumers take peak demand (for example noise suppression capacitor charging), which can affect controller stability.

Charging each battery fully in turn might give results.

If all else fails, re-check your harness. A handy suggestion is to pierce the insulation of a wire under test with a pin or needle, then touch the test meter probe on the pin. After tests, the minute hole left in the plastic insulation could be rubbed over with silicone sealant, but the wire will probably last for decades without doing that.

Good luck, and keep us posted.

Chris


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## Chris Darby (Aug 13, 2014)

I repaired my boot lid wiring back in 2014, i soldered all the broken wires. Earlier this year it stopped working again. Eventually i got round to having another look, convinced i would find a broken wire. My repairs were still in tact, so i exposed all the wiring. No broken wires, so carried on using key. Then it started working again and still is. Could be my battery as it is original 2007, but based on other niggles think the electrics have a mind of their own.

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk


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## richmondvatdi (May 17, 2003)

The (correct AGM) battery is about 1-1/2 years old and I keep it on a maintenance charger most of the time, although there were periods when it was not on the charger. It has been kept on the charger pretty much full time over the past several months as I work to bring this albatross back from the dead. I believe the battery is OK

Last night I went through the Output Tests for 46. All the tail light functions worked perfectly but anything having to do with opening/closing/locking/unlocking was completely non-responsive. Figuring it was maybe a crossed wire, I rechecked all the wires going to the plug for the lock actuator and the plug to the magic VW logo switch. All matched. By the way, all that stuff (lock, latch, motor logo/switch) is literally brand new because the harness failure last year caused me to have to break in to the trunk, destroying all the old parts.

I repeated the Output Tests a couple more times, and magically all those previously-dormant parts came to life. Excitedly hoping it had awoken, I tried closing the trunk and using the remote. But just like before, the tail lights flashed twice and nothing happened. I tried the reset shortcut (unlock trunk with key, open trunk, push the close button on the edge of the trunk) several times but nothing. Went back to the Output Tests and again the trunk functions were non-responsive.

Next I tried Adaptation 24 (Trunk in 2/3 open position, Test, Enter 0, Save). The trunk opened all the way and then closed just like it is supposed to do, but unfortunately still will not open with either the remote or the magic VW button. I ran the Adaptation 24 again, and once again it opened and then closed and then nothing.

I scanned for codes and again I get the same Fault ( 1 Fault Found: 00896 - Trunk Lock Unit (F256) 008 - Implausible Signal ). Cleared it 4 or 5 times and it kept returning.

Having exhausted any remaining mental and physical energy left over from the workday, I poured myself a generous Makers Mark on the rocks and sat down to sob softly while pondering how VW managed to bring to market a vehicle that is so electrically complex and incredibly finicky and convince several thousand people to purchase one for more than the cost of a small 2-bedroom rural Midwest home. 

The End.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

I'm not an electrical expert, but from there I'd be testing the resistance of the wires between the lock and the other side of the splice.


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## Chris Darby (Aug 13, 2014)

Again not on electrician, but from similar feedback on motorcycles with canbus system soldering or other types of connecting can affect restistance and affect whole system.

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk


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## richmondvatdi (May 17, 2003)

invisiblewave said:


> I'm not an electrical expert, but from there I'd be testing the resistance of the wires between the lock and the other side of the splice.





Chris Darby said:


> Again not on electrician, but from similar feedback on motorcycles with canbus system soldering or other types of connecting can affect restistance and affect whole system.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk


That's kind of what I was thinking today, but getting an accurate resistance reading across the splice seems very difficult. Piercing the insulation with a pin as suggested above would work well to get a yes or no on continuity, but probably not to get an accurate ohm value I would think.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

If you have the correct terminals (to insert in the connectors), you could take the connector off the controller and ohm the wires from there to where they are supposed to end up. I would grab the area that has the splices and vigorously move the bundle while checking continuity. 


I had lousy luck with ratcheting crimpers on 7579 and had to redo those crimps. Most of the time the butt splices would get stuck in the jaws. I ended up removing insulation from crimps so I could get a good crimp and used the manual crimpers that look like diagonal cutters with splice jaws. Like these:

https://www.delcity.net/store/Light...term=4577198187950536&utm_content=Ad group #1


I believe I checked continuity before I started from the controller connector to the distant end or to the break. On the broken wires, I checked continuity from the break to the distant end or the controller. 

When I cut the old lid side of the harness out, I checked continuity from the numbered end of the old wire to where it was supposed to lead according to color code and the wiring diagram. If that wire was the same color code as another one, I tried the other possibilities. I then put an identical number on the new harness on the same wire. 

I had to grab a few wires from the old harness to fabricate the escape hatch sub-harness and used the same colors and gauge as the old escape handle wiring. I believe the right inner tail light has the same gauge and color code as the escape handle. 

I am waiting for really cold weather to do mine. I have some temporary Wago connectors in the harness now but the trunk lid controller fuse is removed. I didn't even check the wires but wanted to make sure my lights on the lid worked while I was waiting to redo the harness. 

I will probably use those same connectors to try make sure the new harness is wired correctly before committing. 

Hmm, maybe I will leave them in permanently so I can replace the harness easier next time.

These are the Wago connectors I have:

https://www.delcity.net/store/WAGO-...tm_term=1100315373930&utm_content=Ad group #1


I have never shopped at the company in those links above. It's just a pure coincidence that my web searches ended up at the same company. I think I bought my crimper at Lowe's and I special ordered the box of Wago connectors at a local electrical wholesaler. I had used those Wago connectors at work and knew they would come in handy. I think they can accommodate all of the wires in our trunk harness. I know I have one on a power wire now but I don't know if it's the largest gauge. It would be better if those Wago splices were inline. 


I am also using those Wago connectors in my sprinkler box to connect the valves to the controller. I used a 5 conductor Wago connector for the grounds. So far I have had no electrical problems with my sprinklers. I do have the Wago connectors in a weather resistant junction box.


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## richmondvatdi (May 17, 2003)

*Looking for Wiring Diagram*

That's a great idea to do a continuity test from the control module connector to the lock connector. Do you know where I can find the wiring diagram for the trunk control module? I'm colorblind so this is impossible without a diagram.


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## richmondvatdi (May 17, 2003)

richmondvatdi said:


> That's a great idea to do a continuity test from the control module connector to the lock connector. Do you know where I can find the wiring diagram for the trunk control module? I'm colorblind so this is impossible without a diagram.


So I managed to convince my tiny (5'0") bride to assist me by crawling into the trunk and identifying wires/colors and testing continuity. What a sport she is. We tested all 9 wires on the lock actuator from the controller connector end to the connector on the lock actuator. One of them tested open (black/brown, Pin 2?, can't remember) multiple times. I cut out the splice but before resplicing, I tested controller to splice, across splice, and splice to lock actuator connector. What's really strange is all three of these sections showed continuity (<0.5 ohms resistance). I respliced the connection and now we have continuity but the problems (including the 00896 - Trunk Lock Unit (F256) 008 - Implausible Signal fault) remain. The magic VW switch looks to be working. I can see it Activate in the Measuring Blocks. However, the NJ Escape switch does not register (I will try to test that circuit tomorrow if my wife will agree to crawl back in the trunk.) Also does anyone know where I can find the Trunk Close switch (on the underside edge of the trunk lid) in the Measuring Blocks? I seem to remember in the early days when that switch was working, the backlight would turn from red to white when it was going to work. If it stayed red, you knew it wasn't going to close the trunk. It's staying red now.


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## richmondvatdi (May 17, 2003)

*UPDATE: May be an AGM battery problem*

So last night I put the left battery on the maintenance charger and tonight I checked it and the light is still red ("charging"). To check the charger I put it on the right battery and went out for dinner. Two hours later the light is green ("fully charged"). I suspect the left battery might be bad. Is there a way to check the battery myself to determine if it is bad, or do I have to take it back to NAPA? (Found my receipt and the battery is just over 20 months old.) The regional NAPA warehouse is close to my house and they have this AGM battery in stock.


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## robbie-rocket-pants (Mar 25, 2012)

My left battery always takes way longer to charge than the right, probably because it is still in use whilst being charged.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Stick a volt meter on it with the engine off. Should read > 12.3v. Robbie is right, the LH battery takes WAY longer to fully charge.


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## richmondvatdi (May 17, 2003)

invisiblewave said:


> Stick a volt meter on it with the engine off. Should read > 12.3v. Robbie is right, the LH battery takes WAY longer to fully charge.


 Still red this morning. 2 days should be enough.


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## dythama (Oct 15, 2006)

Hi Jay,

Just wondered if you can elaborate on how the defective wiring led to the crack in the rear window? I just don’t understand and am particularly interested given I’ve had the same cassette out of my car to repair the wiring loom. I’d never observed just how strained the tube is when the boot closes and want to make absolutely sure I don’t end up with a cracked rear screen.
Many thanks
Andrew


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

richmondvatdi said:


> Still red this morning. 2 days should be enough.


I have two battery chargers, an automatic charger (you do have to set what kind of battery and what charging rate) from NAPA that does 6V also because my Buick has a 6V battery. Anyhow, it "thought" one of my AGM batteries was a 6V. It charged the battery to 100% but 6V. 

I bought a "regular" 12V only charger from Autozone so it wouldn't have a choice about what voltage to pick. I use it to charge my AGM batteries unless they are already 12V. 

It has an orange LED to indicate power and a green LED to indicate a full charge. The meter goes to 100% right away but that green LED comes on a day or two later depending on how low the battery was. 

My Phaeton 8486 has been telling me to "Please Start Engine" each time I started it for the last several months even if I drive it around all day. I decided to charge it up the last time it pulled that stunt on me after a full day of shopping all over town. 

I left the left battery connected and attached the charger. The next day the green LED was on as normally happens but I noticed the orange power LED was blinking. I kind of noticed that before but never paid much attention. I decided to just let it charge for a while more because I don't really "need" to drive it as long as my Ford is available especially since I got the A/C fixed on the Ford. 

A day or so later, the green LED was still on and steady and the orange LED was also on and steady. I let it go another day and disconnected it. 

A few days later I decided to drive Phaeton 8486 and fully expected it to tell me to "Please Start Engine" because that's its M.O. 

TO my surprise it didn't complain at all when I started it and I have driven it about 4 or 5 times since then with the battery staying charged. The first day I looked at the Battery gauge and it said around 13V or so. Today it was almost up to 14V. 

I may have jinxed it by typing this but I think it just needed a few days of extra time on the charger after it was "fully charged". 

I am thinking of bringing the batteries for 7579 home from the storage unit and charging them a few days beyond green.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

dythama said:


> Hi Jay,
> 
> Just wondered if you can elaborate on how the defective wiring led to the crack in the rear window? I just don’t understand and am particularly interested given I’ve had the same cassette out of my car to repair the wiring loom. I’d never observed just how strained the tube is when the boot closes and want to make absolutely sure I don’t end up with a cracked rear screen.
> Many thanks
> Andrew



Andrew, if the harness gets caught between the window and the lid, it can break the window. If your harness is missing the tube you have to make sure to move the wires out of the way. Make sure the wires or harness is only in the trunk cavity and do not get near the window.

-Eric


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

richmondvatdi said:


> So I managed to convince my tiny (5'0") bride to assist me by crawling into the trunk and identifying wires/colors and testing continuity. What a sport she is. We tested all 9 wires on the lock actuator from the controller connector end to the connector on the lock actuator. One of them tested open (black/brown, Pin 2?, can't remember) multiple times. I cut out the splice but before resplicing, I tested controller to splice, across splice, and splice to lock actuator connector. What's really strange is all three of these sections showed continuity (<0.5 ohms resistance). I respliced the connection and now we have continuity but the problems (including the 00896 - Trunk Lock Unit (F256) 008 - Implausible Signal fault) remain. The magic VW switch looks to be working. I can see it Activate in the Measuring Blocks. However, the NJ Escape switch does not register (I will try to test that circuit tomorrow if my wife will agree to crawl back in the trunk.) Also does anyone know where I can find the Trunk Close switch (on the underside edge of the trunk lid) in the Measuring Blocks? I seem to remember in the early days when that switch was working, the backlight would turn from red to white when it was going to work. If it stayed red, you knew it wasn't going to close the trunk. It's staying red now.


I am pretty sure it's in the measuring blocks in the same general area as the other stuff. 

You don't need the color codes. Just check every wire from where it originates to where it is supposed to end up. She can just match the color codes up where they are spliced if there is a problem. 

I thought the harness had 24 wires but I guess it could be 22. I checked every wire except the ones that didn't go to the Trunk Lid Controller. If you are replacing the whole harness you need to check the wires for everything on the lid. 

You don't want the right tail light not working because its wire is spliced to the wire for the emergency escape switch instead of the correct wire. (That's one case where the color code could actually confuse you but checking continuity won't confuse you.)


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

richmondvatdi said:


> That's a great idea to do a continuity test from the control module connector to the lock connector. Do you know where I can find the wiring diagram for the trunk control module? I'm colorblind so this is impossible without a diagram.


Sorry,

The only wiring diagrams I know of are in the Bentley manual.


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## richmondvatdi (May 17, 2003)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> I am pretty sure it's in the measuring blocks in the same general area as the other stuff.
> 
> You don't need the color codes. Just check every wire from where it originates to where it is supposed to end up. She can just match the color codes up where they are spliced if there is a problem.
> 
> ...


The charger light finally turned green so I'll assume for now the battery is OK. The 00896 - Trunk Lock Unit (F256) 008 - Implausible Signal fault remains so there is something amiss. I still want to continue checking continuity.

I think there are only 3 possible ways to know for sure which pin on the Trunk Control Module goes to which connector/pin at the other end of the harness:
1. Physically trace from one end to the other, which is difficult when the wires are bundles together the entire route.
2. Match the color of the wire on the Trunk Control Module end to the color of the wire on the opposite end. (Yes I carefully marked every wire on the old harness so I wouldn't have the emergency escape switch wire turning on a tail light. I am confident of this part.)
3. Use the wiring diagram (which I do not yet own) to trace the pin # on one end to the pin # on the other end. 

I needed to free up the garage for a turbo boost hose repair on the '05 Passat TDI, so I buttoned up the Phaeton and put it back outside. I drove it last night and 10 minutes into the trip I got a FLAT TYRE! warning on the dash with a red triangle on the right rear tire on the TPMS display, quickly followed by a red triangle on the other 4 tires. Of course I dis not have 5 flat tires. I am guessing that this is related to the system being powered down for a couple days while the left battery was charging. 

Finally here's a PRO TIP: If you remove the weatherstripping from the trunk when you are replacing the trunk harness, be sure to replace it BEFORE you completely install the new harness. Since it's a continuous loop, there is no way to install it with the new harness in place.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Charging the battery shouldn't cause a TPMS failure. If you're on the B controller, a low tyre is sometimes sufficient for it to show problems with all four. The software is much improved on the G suffix, but the controllers still don't last very long.


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## richmondvatdi (May 17, 2003)

invisiblewave said:


> Charging the battery shouldn't cause a TPMS failure. If you're on the B controller, a low tyre is sometimes sufficient for it to show problems with all four. The software is much improved on the G suffix, but the controllers still don't last very long.


Mine is a G suffix. I disconnected the left battery while charging so no power to the controllers for at least 2 days. I really hope I don't have a bad controller...


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Why did you do that?


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## richmondvatdi (May 17, 2003)

invisiblewave said:


> Why did you do that?


Because after 2 days of not completing a charge (never before has taken more than a day) I began to think that maybe I somehow inadvertently introduced a short to ground that was causing the "no/slow charge" so I wanted to isolate the battery.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

I have posted the Phaeton power trunk lid wiring diagrams below, also a diagnostic pin-out of a plug used in one version of a trunk lid controller, which is located under the rear parcel shelf.

There's also a functionality description taken from the Bentley FS repair manual (ie the manual written by the car company formerly associated with Rolls-Royce, not the US car manual company of the same name). I think this explains many of the idiosyncrasies of the trunk power lid arrangement very well. I find it helps with the diagnostics.

Perhaps these may help find a way through the puzzle.

Chris




All text and images below are (c) Volkswagen Audi Group. Use for personal learning and development only, under US and EU permitted rights.


*Bentley Flying Spur - Diagnostics description of power trunk lid operation*


The system has electrical latching release which is designed to operate within the voltage range 9 to 15 volts. Full functionality is only available between 11 to 15 volts. However, latch release will operate between 9 to 11 volts, requiring manual raising and lowering of the boot lid.

All cars are fitted with a manual boot release system which can be used to mechanically operate the release latch in the event of low battery voltage [_there is text here about the FS's manual release cable, but instead the Phaeton uses a mechanical key turn system_].

An emergency boot lid release lever is fitted in specified markets to enable release from within the luggage compartment in the event of accidental entrapment.The lever is fitted to the boot lid interior trim panel and is made from a phosphorescent material to aid location in the dark. Operating the lever releases the latch electrically, there is no mechanical connection.


*Latching theory*

The boot latch includes a position micro switch to detect when the latch is in engagement with the striker and a motor (with manual override lever) to operate the power latch lock. The striker has two flippers which pivot downwards to allow latch engagement Unlike the manual close boot lid, the striker has only light springs to control the position of the flippers, as a forced opening on release of the latch is not required.

The boot lid is raised and lowered by a drive unit acting directly on the right hand hinge. The drive unit includes a motor, clutch and position sensor. A spring assister is fitted on the end of the left hinge to provide a balanced opening/closing force on the heavier 4 door boot lid.

The power boot system is controlled via a serial interface between the Rear Body Control Module and a separate Power Boot Control Module.

On receiving a valid *boot open request*, the power boot control module releases the latch and starts the boot lid drive motor. The boot lid is then driven open to a predefined position where the motor and clutch disengage. Two gas struts then control the final few degrees of opening.

On receiving a valid *boot close request*, the power boot control module engages the drive motor and clutch. When the boot lid is approximately 50 to 100 mm above the closed position, the motor and clutch disengage allowing the boot lid to free fall onto the striker. A micro switch within the latch signals that the boot lid is in the closed position and the power latch is then driven to complete the closing sequence.

*Note:*
Throughout both of the operating modes, the boot lid motion can be stopped automatically (anti trap) or by operating one of the open/close inputs (emergency stop).


*Operation*

*Opening the boot lid*
The boot lid is opened by one of three inputs:

Remote control - press *and hold* the boot open button (approximately 2 seconds) when within range of the car (it doesn't matter if the car doors are locked or unlocked)
Boot lid badge - press the badge (this only works when the car is unlocked or a valid remote control is within 1 metre of a locked boot)
Internal switch - lift the boot release switch on the drivers door control panel (it doesn't matter if the car doors are locked or unlocked)
*Note:*
If the car has been locked by pressing the central locking switch then unlocked again using the same switch (without driving the car), the boot can be opened via the boot badge. However, if the drive-away locking feature has locked the car, unlocking the doors from inside the car won’t unlock the boot (refer to ‘Drive-away locking’ below).

*Closing the boot lid*
The boot lid is closed by pressing one of the following:

Boot close switch on the underside of the open lid
Boot lid badge
When fully closed, the warning lamp on the driver information panel will extinguish.

*Anti trap feature*
The system behaves differently according to the operating cycle (open/close) and the position of the boot lid at the point of contact with the obstruction. Drive unit clutch slippage is used as the detection device, there are no external sensors on the boot lid or the boot aperture.
*Boot closing* - On detection of an obstruction the motor direction is reversed and the boot lid re-opens awaiting clearance of the obstruction and a new close request. lf the obstruction occurs in the ‘free fall’ zone (almost closed but before power latching), the boot lid will re-open automatically after a 3 second delay.
*Boot opening* - When an obstruction is detected during opening, the drive motor clutch immediately disengages
and the boot lid behavior is then dictated by the supporting gas struts (i.e. the boot lid may remain stationary, continue to open by gas strut pressure or drop close). Press the boot badge or the power close switch to restart boot opening. Boot lid opening cannot be restarted using the remote control or the interior switch in these conditions.

*Warning:*
If the movement is stopped by pressing down on the lid, the downward force required is sufficient to slam the boot closed when the motor clutch disengages.

*Note:*
In the event of a trap condition during opening, the power latch feature is disabled and the boot lid must be opened beyond 20 degrees to reactivate power latching.

*Emergency stop*
Boot lid travel can be stopped at anytime using one of the open/close operating devices (remote control, boot lid badge, boot close switch or interior switch).

Restart movement using the boot lid badge or boot close switch. lf the boot lid is stopped whilst partially open (less than 20 degrees), it must be fully opened to re-enable power latching.

*Drive-away locking*
All cars are configured with ‘drive-away locking’ but this may be switched off if the customer prefers (refer to ‘Secure boot locking’ below). This feature automatically activates central door and boot lid locking when the car is driven above 6 km/hr and remains active when the car is stopped. However, when central door locking is active (doors locked) there are a number of ways that the boot lid can be opened (the boot lid will be re-lock again when closed provided central locking is still active).

By using a valid remote control at the back of the car (direction indicators flash once)
By pressing the boot lid badge when a valid remote control is within 1 metre of the boot (direction indicators flash once)
By operating the internal boot release switch on the drivers door
To cancel central locking from inside the car, press the unlock switch on either of the front doors or remove the ignition key, *this does not unlock the boot*. Opening an individual door by double pulling the door release handle (single pull on front doors in North America) *will not unlock the boot lid* or cancel central door locking.

*Secure boot locking*
When ‘drive-away locking' is switched off (via the diagnostic computer VAS 5052) the car reverts to ‘secure boot locking’ where only the boot lid locks when the car is driven at more than 6 km/hr and remain locked when the car is stopped. The boot lid can be opened by;

Using a valid remote control at the back of the car
Pressing the boot lid badge when a valid remote control is within 1 metre of the boot
Operating the internal boot release switch on the drivers door
Opening at least one door then pressing the boot lid badge
*Important:*
The boot will not re-lock when closed and must be manually locked using the central door lock switch, by driving the car above the 6 km/hr threshold or by locking the complete car.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

richmondvatdi said:


> Because after 2 days of not completing a charge (never before has taken more than a day) I began to think that maybe I somehow inadvertently introduced a short to ground that was causing the "no/slow charge" so I wanted to isolate the battery.


I think most modern chargers will show an error if they detect a short.


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## richmondvatdi (May 17, 2003)

Thanks Paximus. That's great information and quite a bit to digest. I'll be studying it over the next couple of days to try to solve this non-responsive boot issue.

On another note, I checked the pressure in my tires and was surprised to see that they were all down to 32-33 psi (from the 43F/49R that they were set to just a week or so ago). I recently dropped the car off to have the tires balanced and the tire shop for some unknown reason apparently set all the tires to 32-33, either ignoring or not reading the sticker on the door jamb. I refilled them back to where they belong and will readapt correct pressures tomorrow on the way to work. I think this is solved. The car was telling the truth as it saw 4 tires going down.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

The W12 sticker specifies 43/49???


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## richmondvatdi (May 17, 2003)

invisiblewave said:


> The W12 sticker specifies 43/49???


Correction. It specifies 42F/48R (not 43/49). Temporary brain cramp. Not sure where that extra 1 psi came from.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

That's much higher than the V8. I run mine at the original spec pressures, 36/34 (from memory).


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## richmondvatdi (May 17, 2003)

Paximus said:


> I have posted the Phaeton power trunk lid wiring diagrams below, also a diagnostic pin-out of a plug used in one version of a trunk lid controller, which is located under the rear parcel shelf.
> 
> There's also a functionality description taken from the Bentley FS repair manual (ie the manual written by the car company formerly associated with Rolls-Royce, not the US car manual company of the same name). I think this explains many of the idiosyncrasies of the trunk power lid arrangement very well. I find it helps with the diagnostics.
> 
> ...


Thanks Chris. These were helpful in finding where the problem IS NOT, but so far have not been able to find out where it IS. Checked all nine pins on the trunk lock connector and I get continuity (less than 1 ohm resistance) to the controller under the rear shelf, so it appears that my splices are good. I also checked the trunk close button on the underside edge of the trunk lid and those look good too. Does VCDS give us any clues as to where the "00896 - Trunk Lock Unit (F256) 008 - Implausible Signal" fault code is coming from?


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

richmondvatdi said:


> Thanks Chris. These were helpful in finding where the problem IS NOT, but so far have not been able to find out where it IS. Checked all nine pins on the trunk lock connector and I get continuity (less than 1 ohm resistance) to the controller under the rear shelf, so it appears that my splices are good. I also checked the trunk close button on the underside edge of the trunk lid and those look good too. Does VCDS give us any clues as to where the "00896 - Trunk Lock Unit (F256) 008 - Implausible Signal" fault code is coming from?


I don't think VCDS has any other info. You could check measuring blocks and stuff like that. I assume you have reset the fault and checked all other controllers for the same fault (My TPMS fault showed up in completely unrelated controllers.)


Did you manually unlatch the lock unit? If you take the figure eight cover off, you can remove the gear and rotate the latch open and closed. Perhaps it needs to be cycled. 

You can also check inside the lock unit to see if the microswitch wiring is good. You can also check to make sure you get continuity when you close the microswitch. 

(In other words, it might actually be the lock unit.)

Another thing to check is the position sensor above the right battery. If it is telling the controller that the lid is open when it's closed or some other false reading, the controller could think the lock unit is reporting an Implausible Signal. 

You also should check all wires to ground to make sure they aren't shorted out. 

I would check continuity on all of the wires that go to the controller. Often, pesky electronics fail contrary to theory.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

I doubt if you will ever find the harness or loom if you search by description. 

You have to search by part number. 

3D1970053AN is the part number I bought (twice) which doesn't have the escape handle wiring. I suspect it's an ROW part. 

The part number(s) are shown on 7zap in the electrical section. I think it's in the main wiring harness drawing but it might be in another drawing. 

Keep in mind that North American sellers may show it as NLA because VWOA stopped importing Phaetons in 2006. 

It is probably NLA for North America but available in ROW or UK.

I also got one for the non-powered lid by mistake but the box had the part number for the powered lid. You have to verify by counting the wires. 

I think the correct one has 23 or 24 wires through the tube (depending on if you have the emergency escape handle).

-Eric


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

I think as our cars age, these parts will no longer be available. We are going to have to find our own solution to this. Mine was replaced when I first bought the car. I don't think that the design will last and I don't think they've improved it. I religiously lubricate the sheathing with silicone to eliminate any binding and wear. My suggestion is that you should all do the same.


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

So I looked back at my receipts for the repair. Maybe this will help someone. I kind of can't make heads or tails out of it but I suppose you can use the part number to do some research. The car is a 2004 North American V8 model without the power trunk. The last line did not have any relevant information. It was only to bill more time to the repair.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

VWOA lists these:

https://parts.vw.com/productSearch....essory=0&isPerformance=0&searchTerm=3D1970053


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

It's the wires that make a 180° bend right out of the top of the tube that break first. 

That tube could be shortened by around an inch if you are willing to pull all 23 or 24 wires out of the tube then try to feed them back through the tube. You'd also have to cut the tube at the elbow and re-glue it. That would be a lot of surgery on a new expensive harness. 

I think you could also cut the top of the cassette off and let the wiring bundle gently ark from the top instead of being bent 180° out of the tube and another 180° to get out of the side of the cassette. 

The trunk (boot) liner would keep the wiring from getting caught on anything and it's all wrapped up anyway. 

The cover of the cassette is removed on 8486 so its harness is just flapping in the breeze so to speak and the liner is still removed. The tube is zip tied to the base of the cassette. It can still slide up and down and won't fall out. When you open the lid all the way you see that the tub is longer than it needs to be. 

The harness on 8486 needs replacing. I have the lock assembly unplugged and the rear lid controller fuse removed. I temporarily repaired the broken wires so the rear lights would work. I haven't had any problems with the rear lights so far.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

There is a 3D1970053AN on eBay now. It's slightly less than retail with shipping if you seach by part number. 

The one in the eBay search email I got was higher than dealer price even before shipping.


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## Robert.Vangeenen (Sep 29, 2005)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> It's the wires that make a 180° bend right out of the top of the tube that break first.
> 
> That tube could be shortened by around an inch if you are willing to pull all 23 or 24 wires out of the tube then try to feed them back through the tube. You'd also have to cut the tube at the elbow and re-glue it. That would be a lot of surgery on a new expensive harness.
> 
> ...


This sounds a bit like the current status on my trunk wiring. All is working as it should now. There's quite some items on my to-do list to complete before I'm going to deal with this. It's really only a cosmetic issue right now. I have some replacement parts already on the shelf.

- Robert


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