# Suspension clunking (not strut bushings, not sway bar links)



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

I'm kinda stumped over here. I just got done changing my strut bushings and bearings and the clunking on the driver's side is still there. Sway bar end links don't have any excessive play, axles neither. Could this be control arm bushings? Any other possible problematic pieces in the front end? You've all probably seen this before, here's the before and after of the strut bushings. Thanks in advance.


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## wrparrish (Nov 13, 2008)

If its not the control arm, or something related to the steering gear, your only other shot up front that would be remotely plausible would be the Swaybar bushings themselves, that hold it onto the subframe.

Worth a shot to at least inspect if you ever had reason to drop your subframe.


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

My swaybar bushing DIY here. 

http://public.fotki.com/TTQ2K2/front-swaybar-bushings/

cheers


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Yeah, I know how to do it all, but thanks for the link. It's definitely in the left front, so I guess sway bar bushings are all that's left if the strut was good, strut bearing and bushing are new, sway bar link is fine, wheel bearing is fine. Ugghhh, I hate dropping the subframe (mainly because it means alignment).


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Ive taken my car to Audi under warranty over the same reported issue for 2 years they replaced everything up front. Subframe and all. In the end they said they thought it was just noise from the bump stops. Mine happened mostly when turning in reverse.


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

20v master said:


> Yeah, I know how to do it all, but thanks for the link. It's definitely in the left front, so I guess sway bar bushings are all that's left if the strut was good, strut bearing and bushing are new, sway bar link is fine, wheel bearing is fine. Ugghhh, I hate dropping the subframe (mainly because it means alignment).


you do not need to drop the subframe to change the bushings. see the link above.

cheers.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Didn't think there would be room to navigate the bar around without dropping. If so, good news. Does everyone go back with stock or poly? Just thought of disconnecting the bar to see if the clunking goes away....hmmmmm.


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## poopie (Feb 22, 2005)

what conditions cause the clunks? bumps? braking? acceleration? shifting? 

I had a mystery clunk, turned out to be a loose bolt on the front control arm. Cranked it down and it never came back. This was after changing strut mounts and sway bar bushings.


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## sicklyscott (Jun 24, 2002)

My front end clunk ended up being tracked back to a bad ball joint.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Turning sharply causes on, on level ground so it's not bumps, cuases it. I got your PM and will reply, haven't forgotten about you.


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

20v master said:


> Turning sharply causes on, on level ground so it's not bumps, cuases it. I got your PM and will reply, haven't forgotten about you.


FWIW, i have the driver side front clunk when reversing. 

I also have:
new struts, top mounts, bushings
new springs,
new droplinks
new SWB bushings
new ball joints
new control arm bushings
new outer tie rod ends.
new suspension nuts/bolts

and all installed at the same time. Clunk is there every day.

cheers.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

TTC2k5 said:


> FWIW, i have the driver side front clunk when reversing.
> 
> I also have:
> new struts, top mounts, bushings
> ...


Unacceptable. I'll start welding stuff together if I change all that and it still clunks. :laugh::banghead:


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## sicklyscott (Jun 24, 2002)

When I was tracking mine down I was told by someone on here that new motor mounts fixed his clunk, turns out the motor/trans settled enough to hit the swaybar.


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

sicklyscott said:


> When I was tracking mine down I was told by someone on here that new motor mounts fixed his clunk, turns out the motor/trans settled enough to hit the swaybar.


Passenger side mount is what fails and when it does it can clunk - had that happen on my first TT.


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

20v master said:


> Yeah, I know how to do it all, but thanks for the link. It's definitely in the left front, so I guess sway bar bushings are all that's left if the strut was good, strut bearing and bushing are new, sway bar link is fine, wheel bearing is fine. Ugghhh, I hate dropping the subframe (mainly because it means alignment).



I have the exact same issue. Please let me know what you figure out.


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> Passenger side mount is what fails and when it does it can clunk - had that happen on my first TT.



That would actually make sense. Mine really only does it at slow speeds.


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## 1.8 skeet skeet (Aug 11, 2004)

I have the same problem....we need to find out what the hell it is because its driving me crazy :banghead:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Passenger side mount is what fails and when it does it can clunk - had that happen on my first TT.


Under constant acceleration, the motor wouldn't move when jerking the steering wheel, aka it's not a motor mount. I've had bad mounts in my GTI and it's not that.


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

20v master said:


> Under constant acceleration, the motor wouldn't move when jerking the steering wheel, aka it's not a motor mount. I've had bad mounts in my GTI and it's not that.


Well - under acceleration in my old TT - no clunk. Low speeds, reverse and turning - clunk. Go figure. 

Other possibilities are the sway bar bushes - plastic sleeve cracks and then clunks. That's a very common issue. Other is rear sway bar bushes - when my H&R's cracked I got a clunk.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Well - under acceleration in my old TT - no clunk. Low speeds, reverse and turning - clunk. Go figure.
> 
> Other possibilities are the sway bar bushes - plastic sleeve cracks and then clunks. That's a very common issue. Other is rear sway bar bushes - when my H&R's cracked I got a clunk.


Well that points at motor mounts, as the motor will flex opposite direction when in reverse and move a lot more at low speed throttle changes. Just installed a rear sway, so bushings there are poly. Brackets that mount front sway to the subframe are plastic?


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> Well - under acceleration in my old TT - no clunk. Low speeds, reverse and turning - clunk. Go figure.



This is me for sure. So its the motor mounts? Did you replace with OEM stuff or go for the VF Engineering/aftermarket mounts?


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

20v master said:


> Well that points at motor mounts, as the motor will flex opposite direction when in reverse and move a lot more at low speed throttle changes. Just installed a rear sway, so bushings there are poly. Brackets that mount front sway to the subframe are plastic?


The mounts are rubber but there is a plastic sleeve on the bar under the brackets and it cracks and separates from the bar. It's very common. Most just buy larger poly bushes and cut off the plastic sleeve.


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

omerkm1 said:


> This is me for sure. So its the motor mounts? Did you replace with OEM stuff or go for the VF Engineering/aftermarket mounts?


This was on my old TT which was under warranty at the time - so it was a stock mount that went in. In my TT I put the 034 Street Density mounts in and the passenger one failed completely which resulted in my 42DD DP hitting the top of my steering rack and taking out the hard line. So I replaced them with VF mounts and have had them since May of last year. I absolutely hate them due to added vibration. They have been rechecked and retorqued and still vibrate too much for my tastes. I've been in other MKIV chassis cars - although fwd - that had them and very little vibration so I don't know why mine suck so bad. I'm putting up with it right now since my wife is using my TT on track - but by the end of the year i'm going to put the stock ones back in.


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> This was on my old TT which was under warranty at the time - so it was a stock mount that went in. In my TT I put the 034 Street Density mounts in and the passenger one failed completely which resulted in my 42DD DP hitting the top of my steering rack and taking out the hard line. So I replaced them with VF mounts and have had them since May of last year. I absolutely hate them due to added vibration. They have been rechecked and retorqued and still vibrate too much for my tastes. I've been in other MKIV chassis cars - although fwd - that had them and very little vibration so I don't know why mine suck so bad. I'm putting up with it right now since my wife is using my TT on track - but by the end of the year i'm going to put the stock ones back in.


So maybe new OEM mounts and a poly dogbone mount would be enough?


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

omerkm1 said:


> So maybe new OEM mounts and a poly dogbone mount would be enough?


That's what I plan on.


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> That's what I plan on.



I really appreciate the insight on the VF mounts. I was planning on ordering the complete set soon. Instead I can get OEM mounts and a dog bone mount and still enjoy driving my car. :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

So what size is the stock front sway bar so I can order approriate sized poly bushings? I see several different sized bushings available but nothing indicates what is stock, I'm assuming the smallest, 17mm, but I see 19 and 20 as well.


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

Excuse me for being a noob, but are TT's just noisy in general? My clunk doesnt really seem to affect performance when actually driving but.... 

When backing out of a parking spot today with the wheels fully locked to the left, I was getting what seemed like a lot of engine movement. Would this also be indicative of a bad left side engine mount?


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Yes, you have a 10 year old car that is probably on original mounts I'm assuming.


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

20v master said:


> Yes, you have a 10 year old car that is probably on original mounts I'm assuming.




:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

20v master said:


> So what size is the stock front sway bar so I can order approriate sized poly bushings? I see several different sized bushings available but nothing indicates what is stock, I'm assuming the smallest, 17mm, but I see 19 and 20 as well.


?


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

20v master said:


> ?



I did a google search and found this. 

http://forums.motivemag.com/showthread.php?4408457

Cant tell you if it 100% truth or not but I hope it helps.


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

20v master said:


> ?


FWiW, 20mm was right size for my early 2001 225. But...I was told 19mm, which is what I bought. However, since the plastic sleeves on my bar were chipped/cracked and I removed them, 19mm became the right size.


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

TTC2k5 said:


> FWiW, 20mm was right size for my early 2001 225. But...I was told 19mm, which is what I bought. However, since the plastic sleeves on my bar were chipped/cracked and I removed them, 19mm became the right size.


Correct - can be either 20mm or 19mm. Simply measure your bar on the part next to the sleeve and buy that size.


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## trixx (Dec 23, 2002)

TTC2k5 said:


> FWIW, i have the driver side front clunk when reversing.
> 
> I also have:
> new struts, top mounts, bushings
> ...


Driver side tranny/motor mount... change it.
If you haven't done the dog bone mount... do it too.


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

trixx said:


> Driver side tranny/motor mount... change it.
> If you haven't done the dog bone mount... do it too.



Both on the "list." Don't know it will help, but on list anyway.


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

TTC2k5 said:


> Both on the "list." Don't know it will help, but on list anyway.


yes..... the list


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

omerkm1 said:


> yes..... the list


:laugh:


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

20v master said:


> :laugh:



I am about to pull the trigger on pss coils, ecs mounts and control arms. hopefully that will get rid of the clunk!!!


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

omerkm1 said:


> I am about to pull the trigger on pss coils, ecs mounts and control arms. hopefully that will get rid of the clunk!!!


Not to throw a monkey wrench in your plans - but i've never liked the rear coil design of the PSS9's for the TT. I'd recommend KW's or H&R's over the Bilsteins in the TT application. The coils bind and compress into themselves. I used to have a picture - but I can't seem to find it.


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> Not to throw a monkey wrench in your plans - but i've never liked the rear coil design of the PSS9's for the TT. I'd recommend KW's or H&R's over the Bilsteins in the TT application. The coils bind and compress into themselves. I used to have a picture - but I can't seem to find it.



Nothing is ordered yet, which KW and/or H&R?


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Not to throw a monkey wrench in your plans - but i've never liked the rear coil design of the PSS9's for the TT. I'd recommend KW's or H&R's over the Bilsteins in the TT application. The coils bind and compress into themselves. I used to have a picture - but I can't seem to find it.


Joe, what are we comparing here: Pss, Pss9, KW v1, v2,v3, H&R because they are not the same?

The run down:

*PSS9* Bilstein inverted monotube using entry level hardware on a great shock(wide valving curve, great durability and consistency). Essentially the PSS9 is the same as the pss, plus the adjuster. The adjuster itself is pretty much useless for two reasons: 
1) Changes at the lower end of adjustments are not equal to changes at the upper end of adjustments and the user is basically blind without a shock dyno.
2) Rebound adjustments are not independent of compression:screwy: (personally I would not touch an adjuster that messed with both my rebound and compression curves.) 
For the mild spring that they come with the #6 adjustment seems to be the sweet spot, valving wise.

*PSS * is the same monotube shock without the screwy adjuster. They use the same entry level hardware and the default valving is equivalent to the #6 ajustment of the pss9( coincidentally the sweet spot in the valving). I personally would not waste money on the pss9 version just to have a stupid screw that does not do much. The PSS IMO is a great deal at a great price for the budget minded.

*H&R street/track(rss)* is another coilover based on that same Bilstein inverted monotube shock. 
Intelligently, H&R took that proven shock, picked their own (tested) spring rates, revalved everything and used their own top notch hardware. The perches, springs, mounting brackets, helper springs etc. are well thought out(the collapsing progressive barrel type rear springs mentioned on the PSS are replaced by linear springs). I personally run a set of H&R RSS in the wife's TT but I put different springs on them and revalved everything to my specs. 

*KW V1,V2* use koni inserts in their own cylinder and hardware. The difference between the two are the spring rates and another screwy adjuster. The "Koni made" inserts in these are not that impressive. The valving is geared toward comfort, not performance and they tend to be inconsistent when pushed. 

*KW V3 *is a totally different coilover, the shock body is the coilover body and there is no inserts. The valving is decent(also geared towards comfort) and rebound adjustment is separate from compression. They are not bad but the valving is kind of narrow and you can't really play with spring rates although you have rebound/compression adjustments available.

At the end, it all comes down to what your purpose is and what budget you are working with.
A street car IMO does not need anything more than PSS or H&R streets. 
If you are after more performance on the streets and some occasional track the KW v3 is a nice compromise. 
Now if your goal is all out performance, go for H&R RSS, Ground Control AD, KW motorsports, Motons.

I like to steer people towards the Bilstein inverted monutube based coilovers because they are proven, the pricing is great for what you get and rebuild and revalve is available in the US at a reasonable cost. I hope this help clear some of the confusion this community has when it comes to coilovers.


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

madmax199 said:


> Joe, what are we comparing here: Pss, Pss9, KW v1, v2,v3, H&R because they are not the same?
> 
> The run down:
> 
> ...



I vote we sticky this. There is a lot of confusion around how different coilovers perform on the TT. I think I need the adjustable rebound/dampening for roughly 10 autox days and 2-3 track days.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Very nice post Max. You guys are making it hard for me to not change the suspension on my daily TT. :banghead:


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

omerkm1 said:


> I vote we sticky this. There is a lot of confusion around how different coilovers perform on the TT.


I will be posting a comprehensive TT suspension thread when I get some time to sit in front of a pc and not post from my phone. I will include front and rear geometry with their limitations, motion ratios, roll center/roll couple/center of gravity and their dynamic interactions. I'll also get into spring rates, sway bars and their effects on final wheel rates. With all that if we get a good discussion going, maybe it will be sticky material.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> Very nice post Max. You guys are making it hard for me to not change the suspension on my daily TT. :banghead:


Do it, the daily drive can be fun and rewarding also.


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

madmax199 said:


> Do it, the daily drive can be fun and rewarding also.



Max - Have you heard good/bad about the K Sport coilovers? There must be something wrong with them to be as adjustable as they are and also cost less than everything else.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

madmax199 said:


> Do it, the daily drive can be fun and rewarding also.


Yeah, I have a ~550whp GTI that I daily drove for ~4 years. I'm trying to leave this TT alone for obvious reasons. :laugh:


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## wrparrish (Nov 13, 2008)

omerkm1 said:


> Max - Have you heard good/bad about the K Sport coilovers? There must be something wrong with them to be as adjustable as they are and also cost less than everything else.


I have often wondered the same, i always figured it was a inferior product that they tried to push on you by offering nicely anodized camber plates and springs to give you the illusion of quality.
:laugh:


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

omerkm1 said:


> Max - Have you heard good/bad about the K Sport coilovers? There must be something wrong with them to be as adjustable as they are and also cost less than everything else.


Snake oil, stay away please:thumbdown::thumbdown::thumbdown:

Whenever you see 32 or 36 levels of adjustable damping that can not provide a single dyno graph and can't even tell you what the adjustment do to the valving curves, it is a clear indication that you are looking at chinese "one size fit all cars" cheap coilovers that perform worse than staying stock. 

They usually get you by showing some bling(pillow ball mounts that fall apart in six months, 6061 aluminum, and shiny camber plates) and give a little knobs to play with, boosting your ego a bit and make your friends think you are cool:laugh:.


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

madmax199 said:


> Joe, what are we comparing here: Pss, Pss9, KW v1, v2,v3, H&R because they are not the same?
> 
> I like to steer people towards the Bilstein inverted monutube based coilovers because they are proven, the pricing is great for what you get and rebuild and revalve is available in the US at a reasonable cost. I hope this help clear some of the confusion this community has when it comes to coilovers.


If you READ my post I noted REAR COIL DESIGN. I didn't mention anything about shock type, valving etc. Unless they made a change - the PSS coil design for the rear spring on the TT - in both the PSS and PSS9 is terrible in my opinion and many have dumped it for different rear springs.

Personally I wouldn't want rear springs like this were only the top and bottom coil are working. IIRC - they are 315lb springs.










H&R went through 4 different rear spring designs on the TT before finally getting one that works right. 

I've been to the KW factory when I had my V3's redone, you are correct in that the valving is quite different for the 3's vs the 1's and 2's. They can also be revalved for the customer. However - for the most part on a street application - it makes very little difference. I've had V2's on my first TT and with regards to ride quality - they weren't a whole lot different than my V3's.


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## trixx (Dec 23, 2002)

[email protected] said:


> Personally I wouldn't want rear springs like this were only the top and bottom coil are working. IIRC - they are 315lb springs.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


wow... barely 2 active coils... regardless of spring rates, suspension travel is key to maintaining contact with the road... under compression those springs look like they have an inch of movement and i assume they would bottom out quick :facepalm:


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> If you READ my post I noted REAR COIL DESIGN. I didn't mention anything about shock type, valving etc. Unless they made a change - the PSS coil design for the rear spring on the TT - in both the PSS and PSS9 is terrible in my opinion and many have dumped it for different rear springs.
> 
> Personally I wouldn't want rear springs like this were only the top and bottom coil are working. IIRC - they are 315lb springs.
> 
> ...


Joe, I READ your post and I know that you only said "*i've never liked the rear coil design of the PSS9's for the TT. I'd recommend KW's or H&R's over the Bilsteins in the TT application*" and you are right that the collapsing spring were/are garbage.

What I'm pointing out is that the rear spring coil design are only part of the hardware and only a fraction of the whole picture. You can fix that by swaping linear springs for next to nothing and the H&R you are recommending are basically the same Bilstein shocks but with "better" hardware. OH BTW KW also had issues with their rear spring design in the TT but they revised it also. :screwy: What is the point of KW's expensive revalving if their shock curve is too narrow to accomodate high spring rates?

*KW collapsers*



Uploaded with ImageShack.us
I only posted because you made a recommendation of using one over the other based on a single flaw/technicality and I explained more in depth, the similarities and differences so everyone could have a clearer picture. I could find flaws on each of them but would not recommend something else without explaning the how/why and how much:thumbup:.


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

damn it..... so what do I buy? you guys are my knowledge base. the shop I have worked with locally thinks that the only coils worth buying are the pss9!!


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

tire rack sells the kw v3 but I cant find anyone that sells the h&r rss coilovers for the 2001 TTQC. Any ideas?


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

omerkm1 said:


> tire rack sells the kw v3 but I cant find anyone that sells the h&r rss coilovers for the 2001 TTQC. Any ideas?


-KW is a decent street/occasional track coilover because it is OK in both, just don't expect to show up at the track and be competitive on them.

-H&R RSS are not per say made for the TT, they were designed and developped for the the MK4 R32(same suspension) 
If you want to buy them, go for R32 applications but be aware that they are more track than street and the springs/valving are purposely choosen for track(may be too hardcore in the streets)


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

madmax199 said:


> -KW is a decent street/occasional track coilover because it is OK in both, just don't expect to show up at the track and be competitive on them.
> 
> -H&R RSS are not per say made for the TT, they were designed and developped for the the MK4 R32(same suspension)
> If you want to buy them, go for R32 applications but be aware that they are more track than street and the springs/valving are purposely choosen for track(may be too hardcore in the streets)



well I am a long way from being competitive at the track regardless of car set up. 

but I would like to be able to drive the car on the street with a nice set up and then stiffen things up for a autox/track day. Sounds the KW V3 or PSS9 would do that. 

thanks for the back and forth.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

madmax199 said:


> I will be posting a comprehensive TT suspension thread when I get some time to sit in front of a pc and not post from my phone. I will include front and rear geometry with their limitations, motion ratios, roll center/roll couple/center of gravity and their dynamic interactions. I'll also get into spring rates, sway bars and their effects on final wheel rates. With all that if we get a good discussion going, maybe it will be sticky material.


No one would know what you were talking about. :laugh: Don't forget bump steer, tire lift, and exceding total grip per corner. I could help with some numerical simulation (the understeer gradient I mentioned in the last thead), but in my vehicle dynamics class, spring, shock, sway bars, tire, camber/caster/toe, etc, were all lumped into final wheel rate. Everything is pretty easily modeled except the black art of tires. Look up my professor David Bevly if your interested. He does a lot of work with Ford and Nissan on developing GPS based stability controls rather than yaw and steering angle sensors.


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

madmax199 said:


> Joe, I READ your post and I know that you only said "*i've never liked the rear coil design of the PSS9's for the TT. I'd recommend KW's or H&R's over the Bilsteins in the TT application*" and you are right that the collapsing spring were/are garbage.
> 
> What I'm pointing out is that the rear spring coil design are only part of the hardware and only a fraction of the whole picture. You can fix that by swaping linear springs for next to nothing and the H&R you are recommending are basically the same Bilstein shocks but with "better" hardware. OH BTW KW also had issues with their rear spring design in the TT but they revised it also. :screwy: What is the point of KW's expensive revalving if their shock curve is too narrow to accomodate high spring rates?
> 
> I only posted because you made a recommendation of using one over the other based on a single flaw/technicality and I explained more in depth, the similarities and differences so everyone could have a clearer picture. I could find flaws on each of them but would not recommend something else without explaning the how/why and how much:thumbup:.


Most people wouldn't have a clue what size spring or rate of spring - much less the diameter of the spring to get to replace the Bilstein spring. Cheapest i've found springs is about $65 each - that's another $130 over the cost of the setup. To me that's the biggest flaw in the design. Most people aren't going to spend more money on higher spring rates anyway - and I would venture to guess that maybe 5% of the people who buy coilovers for street use would either.

I can't see the pic you posted - but both the V2 and V3 rear springs were the same when I purchased them for my TT. I bought the V2's in 2000 and the V3's in 2005. They changed the rear spring in 06 I believe to make it shorter for more drop. In the 11 years I've been around TT's - I've never seen or heard of the KW's rear spring collapsing.


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

madmax199 said:


> -KW is a decent street/occasional track coilover because it is OK in both, just don't expect to show up at the track and be competitive on them.
> 
> -H&R RSS are not per say made for the TT, they were designed and developped for the the MK4 R32(same suspension)
> If you want to buy them, go for R32 applications but be aware that they are more track than street and the springs/valving are purposely choosen for track(may be too hardcore in the streets)


I tracked my TT with V3's for 4 years and they worked just fine. The ability to tune compression and rebound was enough for non-competitive track days from beginner to instructor level where I am now. If I was trying to be competitive - the TT isn't a platform I'd chose anyway. 

The one thing that's been lacking from this discussion is the question - what the hell are you going to do with the car when you get it and what is your ultimate goal - performance, comfort or a mix of both. I know you have a great deal of knowledge with suspensions and setup - but they are always performance oriented and that isn't everyone's main goal.


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> I tracked my TT with V3's for 4 years and they worked just fine. The ability to tune compression and rebound was enough for non-competitive track days from beginner to instructor level where I am now. If I was trying to be competitive - the TT isn't a platform I'd chose anyway.
> 
> The one thing that's been lacking from this discussion is the question - what the hell are you going to do with the car when you get it and what is your ultimate goal - performance, comfort or a mix of both. I know you have a great deal of knowledge with suspensions and setup - but they are always performance oriented and that isn't everyone's main goal.



last question from me, I promise. How easy was it to change the rebound/compression settings on the V3's? The pss9 is a simple know, even if ineffective, do I have to remove the V3's from the car to make adjustments or is it done with a allen key?


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> The one thing that's been lacking from this discussion is the question - what the hell are you going to do with the car when you get it and what is your ultimate goal - performance, comfort or a mix of both.


All copied and pasted from previous posts in this thread:

*-At the end, it all comes down to what your purpose is and what budget you are working with.
A street car IMO does not need anything more than PSS or H&R streets. 
If you are after more performance on the streets and some occasional track the KW v3 is a nice compromise. 
Now if your goal is all out performance, go for H&R RSS, Ground Control AD, KW motorsports, Motons.*

*-KW is a decent street/occasional track coilover because it is OK in both, just don't expect to show up at the track and be competitive on them.

-H&R RSS are not per say made for the TT, they were designed and developped for the the MK4 R32(same suspension) 
If you want to buy them, go for R32 applications but be aware that they are more track than street and the springs/valving are purposely choosen for track(may be too hardcore in the streets) *





[email protected] said:


> I know you have a great deal of knowledge with suspensions and setup - but they are always performance oriented and that isn't everyone's main goal.


You are right Joe, my advise and inputs when it comes to coilovers are biased towards performance. 

I was under the impression (my logic may be flawed) that if someone is investing in coilovers, they are looking for some kind of performance increase over stock. If not they would just stay on stock replacement or upgraded shocks with lowering springs. 

Maybe I should keep my "always performance oriented" views and advise to myself or take them to the motorsports section of the site.


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

madmax199 said:


> All copied and pasted from previous posts in this thread:
> 
> You are right Joe, my advise and inputs when it comes to coilovers are biased towards performance.
> 
> ...


Most people buy coilovers so they can drop their car real low :facepalm: Seriously though - the majority of people that i've seen buy coilovers is so they can set the drop. 

I'm not really talking about performance on the street per se - but when you start talking about revalving, changing spring rates and being competitive - that's more about serious AutoX or running on track with SCCA or NASA. That's what I mean. 

Saying KW V3's aren't going to be competitive is misleading because parts aren't what ultimately make you competitive - driving skill does. I love sitting in the right seat instructing people who buy all these high priced mods, talk your ear about how awesome they make the car and then they can't drive for crap on track and are getting passed by completely stock fwd sedans. When you are competing for regional or national championships - you've already moved passed this level of mods anyway. That's what I mean.


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

guys, guys.... I feel somewhat responsible for kicking the hornets nest on this one. So, to put an end to all of this.... 

SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME WHAT COILOVERS TO ORDER!!!:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:

1. Only want to lower 1in, maybe 1.15/25 in front for a little rake.
2. Drive it hard on the street and then even harder on the autox circuit and track. 
3. Dont care about rough ride on the street.
4. Somewhat budget minded, dont want to spend more than $2k.
5. SIMPLE to adjust if adjustment is included. 
6. Will the H&R Streets do most of what I listed above or should I order the R32 RSS tracks?


Thanks!!!! :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## MKllllvr28 (Sep 15, 2005)

madmaxx tell me how you really feel lol. i have adjustable koni's on my tt. tell me about them please.


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## Oh_My_VR6 (Sep 6, 2004)

sicklyscott said:


> My front end clunk ended up being tracked back to a bad ball joint.


After replacing control arm bushings and inspecting sway bar bushings, this is what my clunk ended up being as well. :thumbup:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Okay, a month later and after the thread got way off topic, today I replaced the front sway bushings with 20mm Powerflex units. Clunk is now no longer. Hardest part of the install was getting the one remaining plastic sleeve that wasn't broken off the swaybar. :thumbup:


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

I'm glad you got it sorted:thumbup:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

It's so nice to not hear that clunk anymore. Now on to other mods. :laugh:


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> It's so nice to not hear that clunk anymore. Now on to other mods. :laugh:


Coilovers maybe? I'm just playing devil' s advocate lol !


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

madmax199 said:


> Coilovers maybe? I'm just playing devil' s advocate lol !


Actually I bought some H&R springs for $60 today. Couldn't resist at that price, though they won't get installed for a while, aka until I find shocks/struts. Leaning towards Bilstein's.


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## oohay32408 (Nov 22, 2010)

how did you get the inner nut off of the driver side clamp?


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