# Well, this is embarassing......(Dyno Content)



## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Just had my car on the dyno, Ill post a sheet later. Ughhhhh......131whp at peak. Boost was creeping, at redline when the operator let off it was at 11.5psi or so 


























I tried a screen shot of my log, but it looks like **** so, so here is a synopsis 

11.7 psi at peak, 12* of advance 
MAT was at 161* (started at 105* or so), no fan in front of car and about 85* ambient 
Dyno AFR is a off a bit per operator. 11.0-11.5 throughout run, in the 10's above 5800 due to lack of tuning in the top end 
Not sure how, but IDC was a tad over 70% at peak of 6300rpms 

Specs on the setup 
Holset Hx30, set at 5 psi creeps to 12-14 at peak rpm 
9:1 compression 
440cc injectors 
1.8l 16v 

Dyno run was done in 4th gear.


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## sp_golf (Nov 28, 2007)

something is horribly wrong


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Im starting to think its a timing issue. Ive been searching for the last hour or so for everyone else's timing maps on their 16vt's. 

All of them are running 17-20* of advance, and while Im not a pro tuner, I know power is in the timing. 

Problem is Im having a hard time justifying the low numbers. 12* of advance up top and the 160* IAT isnt helping, but it seems pretty weak. I know my mechanical and ignition timing is correct. 

The dyno cant be too far off though, my 020 is still in one piece.:laugh: 

EDIT: I should mention the IAT during the run isnt normal. I usually see about 40* less on a 4th-5th gear pull on the highway.


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## 2ToneTurbo (Feb 15, 2007)

What kind of dyno was it? Mustang or dyno jet?


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

DYNO-mite.


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## sp_golf (Nov 28, 2007)

You can run quite a bit more ign timing at those boost levels but I don't see it making that big of a difference, you should be making 200+whp even with conservative timing and high IATs.. 
Have you checked for boost leaks? esp around the head flange


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## 2ToneTurbo (Feb 15, 2007)

Actully you were on a mustang dyno. I just talked to my buddy who has owns the place you dynod at..dyno tech right? seems to me you had a lot of issues that's day.. boost leaks and stalling issues. Take some time to do a boost leak test . His dyno is not easy to make power on I can tell u that.. good luck andhope yo figure your issues out.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

sp_golf said:


> You can run quite a bit more ign timing at those boost levels but I don't see it making that big of a difference, you should be making 200+whp even with conservative timing and high IATs..
> Have you checked for boost leaks? esp around the head flange


 One small leak on the upper and lower intake flange, new gasket and tightened down pretty good. I idle around 40kpa 



2ToneTurbo said:


> Actully you were on a mustang dyno. I just talked to my buddy who has owns the place you dynod at..dyno tech right? seems to me you had a lot of issues that's day.. boost leaks and stalling issues. Take some time to do a boost leak test . His dyno is not easy to make power on I can tell u that.. good luck andhope yo figure your issues out.


 SD Concepts in West Warwick, not Dyno tech. They had a dyno day today, $20 a pull. Figured one pull was enough, as I knew heatsoak would be an issue. Also, I figured one run for a baseline and then go from there. 

No stalling issues and boost leaks other than the one mentioned. 

There was a user a few years back than ran the same turbo as me on a PG in a 'rado on Digi 1. He made 29xwhp at 24 psi. Maybe the turbo just isnt in its sweet spot? 

Edit: Forgot to mention, 2.5" downpipe to a 2.25" exhaust:banghead::banghead::banghead:


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## 2ToneTurbo (Feb 15, 2007)

Ahh no ****..he said there was a vw there the other day 16v turbo. Running on megasquirt from R.I .maybe someone else..


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

2ToneTurbo said:


> Ahh no ****..he said there was a vw there the other day 16v turbo. Running on megasquirt from R.I .maybe someone else..


 I assume your talking about the shop seekonk,right? I went to their dyno day a month or so ago, nice shop. But they are new, and I've known sd concepts for some time now. They have quite a few boosted cars and trucks, amoung them a mid 8's challenger that's street legal. 

They might not know vw's as well as some of us on the forum, but they sure as **** know how to make power.


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## vwturbofox (Jul 31, 2010)

Dave926 said:


> One small leak on the upper and lower intake flange, new gasket and tightened down pretty good. I idle around 40kpa
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 small exhaust let me guess you have a cat and a muffler cut that sh** off and run 3 inch that holset needs to breath.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Dave926 said:


> Im starting to think its a timing issue. Ive been searching for the last hour or so for everyone else's timing maps on their 16vt's.
> 
> All of them are running 17-20* of advance, and while Im not a pro tuner, I know power is in the timing.
> 
> ...


 Yes there is power in the timing but you are also rather rich. With 9 to 1 static compression 12 to 12.5 to 1 is plenty safe until you get above 15psi ( probably till 20psi). 

And now go ahead everyone and tell me how wrong I am


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

vwturbofox said:


> small exhaust let me guess you have a cat and a muffler cut that sh** off and run 3 inch that holset needs to breath.


 No cat, flowmaster 40 series and a straight through resonator. 3" downpipe wasn't practical to fit with the 020 linkage. In fact I think it hits getting on it real hard in 3rd. Outlet on the turbo was 2.5" anyways. 

Am I wasting my time doing a 3" exhaust on a 2.5" downpipe, or does every little bit help? I kind of want the car somewhat quiet, as several times a year I go on 800+ mile roadtrips. 



Prof315 said:


> Yes there is power in the timing but you are also rather rich. With 9 to 1 static compression 12 to 12.5 to 1 is plenty safe until you get above 15psi ( probably till 20psi).
> 
> And now go ahead everyone and tell me how wrong I am


 I did have it a bit leaner before during the first few psi (unintentionally) and after richening up I did notice a bit of a power loss so you might be correct. I suppose that would also explain the abnormally high injector duty cycle. 

My next step is re installing the holset actuator and a higher rated map sensor for higher boost. 

Should have went chip tune. :laugh:


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Rich is generally safe but at the cost of power. I don't care if you are F/I or N/A. I have found this to be the case over and over on the dyno. When tuning F/I cars I generally run 13.2 till ~150kpa and then gradually richen things to ~ 12.2 to 1 at 250 kpa. Then I just keep my timing conservative and SLOWLY add more advance. But I rarely even run the "rule of thumb" 1 degree retard per pound of boost. I generally go 2*/10kpa which is 1.5 degrees retard/lb.


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## vwturbofox (Jul 31, 2010)

The one problem is the flowmaster those are for na guys not turbo guys run a straight thru type muffler:facepalm:.You should be fine with a 2.5 down pipe but i would run 3 inch back from there but me i always run 3 inch from turbo back.what you should do to see if the car feels better un bolt the exhaust setup and just run the down pipe and see how the car feels


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Prof315 said:


> Rich is generally safe but at the cost of power. I don't care if you are F/I or N/A. I have found this to be the case over and over on the dyno. When tuning F/I cars I generally run 13.2 till ~150kpa and then gradually richen things to ~ 12.2 to 1 at 250 kpa. Then I just keep my timing conservative and SLOWLY add more advance. But I rarely even run the "rule of thumb" 1 degree retard per pound of boost. I generally go 2*/10kpa which is 1.5 degrees retard/lb.


 I'm going to re-adjust my tune accordingly. This my seem silly, but at what point do I stop reducing timing based on psi? If I do decide to run that holset wastegate actuator (25psi) that will put me at almost 40* of retard. 



vwturbofox said:


> The one problem is the flowmaster those are for na guys not turbo guys run a straight thru type muffler:facepalm:.You should be fine with a 2.5 down pipe but i would run 3 inch back from there but me i always run 3 inch from turbo back.what you should do to see if the car feels better un bolt the exhaust setup and just run the down pipe and see how the car feels


 I will need to investigate what others are using for mufflers. I wouldn't mind straight pipe, but cops are everywhere where I live, and I go on long trips frequently. I suppose the other solution is some form of electric cutout


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Dave926 said:


> I'm going to re-adjust my tune accordingly. This my seem silly, but at what point do I stop reducing timing based on psi? If I do decide to run that holset wastegate actuator (25psi) that will put me at almost 40* of retard.
> 
> 
> > You can usually ease up and slow down the retard at 15psi or so. But look at what a 1.8T does sometime with factory tune. 6-10* ATC timing at full boost (9psi) is the norm.


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## [email protected] (Jan 2, 2009)

Dave926 said:


> Im starting to think its a timing issue. Ive been searching for the last hour or so for everyone else's timing maps on their 16vt's.
> 
> All of them are running 17-20* of advance, and while Im not a pro tuner, I know power is in the timing.
> 
> ...




Whatever you do, ban yourself from looking at other people's timing maps for guidance. 100x more so on a 16v, where the base timing is somewhat susceptible to error. I remember back in the day using people's posted maps- on 91 octane most of them were partially tuned at best. You could use it as a place to start but I would consider anything downloaded to be suspect until proven otherwise. Pretty much goes for lots of stuff on the internet actually :laugh:

It should make more power then that even on 12 degrees of timing. Way more... Start checking around for problems- clogged cat, boost leak, flex section with the bellows ripped out of it (clog), etc... 

You might also try locking the timing and having a buddy rev it up for you, while you man a timing light- look for timing drift. It is usually rock solid on those old hall sensor setups but sometimes timing will fall off a bit with RPM, thus your 12 degrees can quickly become zero, etc. 

-Pete


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

[email protected] said:


> Whatever you do, ban yourself from looking at other people's timing maps for guidance. 100x more so on a 16v, where the base timing is somewhat susceptible to error. I remember back in the day using people's posted maps- on 91 octane most of them were partially tuned at best. You could use it as a place to start but I would consider anything downloaded to be suspect until proven otherwise. Pretty much goes for lots of stuff on the internet actually :laugh:
> 
> It should make more power then that even on 12 degrees of timing. Way more... Start checking around for problems- clogged cat, boost leak, flex section with the bellows ripped out of it (clog), etc...
> 
> ...


Thanks for the advice. In regards to the timing, while I know everyone's setup is different, its just that when I saw 5-6 setups with a few degrees more advance it made me think about it.

I did set the timing up in the ms at 6* fixed,but truth be told the light will wiggle a bit around the arrow on the trans. I just assumed it was the cheap cdm timing light I was using. Never thought to check for timing drift.

The really small leak that's between the upper and lower intake is making me think twice. Even with a brand new gasket it leaks and really cranking down on it is not helping. I've got another upper intake I can try.


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## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

as everyone has said, start with timing (also make sure that the crank pulley keyway isnt stripped).

if mechanically everything is good. drive around under load with no boost and start advancing timing until you see some knock activity, and you'll have a better idea of where your threshold is starting.

may be worth it to temporarily install a knock light.

:beer:


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## stntman (Sep 19, 2002)

there is definately something wrong, my NA 8v should have been 9 whp lower than your 16T unless i did a better job setting that thing up than I thought and I never should have trn it down.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Prof315 said:


> Rich is generally safe but at the cost of power. I don't care if you are F/I or N/A. I have found this to be the case over and over on the dyno. When tuning F/I cars I generally run 13.2 till ~150kpa and then gradually richen things to ~ 12.2 to 1 at 250 kpa. Then I just keep my timing conservative and SLOWLY add more advance. But I rarely even run the "rule of thumb" 1 degree retard per pound of boost. I generally go 2*/10kpa which is 1.5 degrees retard/lb.


I should note that once I get the tableswitching failsafes set up for my water/meth injection timing will be getting SERIUOSLY advanced.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

TBT-Syncro said:


> as everyone has said, start with timing (also make sure that the crank pulley keyway isnt stripped).
> 
> if mechanically everything is good. drive around under load with no boost and start advancing timing until you see some knock activity, and you'll have a better idea of where your threshold is starting.
> 
> ...


Knock sensing for ms1/extra isn't very well developed unfortunately. I think I'm going to look into making det cans with ear defenders.

I replaced the harmonic balancer bolt 2 years ago (maybe 5k miles) wiht a new one and some loctite. Both the timing gear and crank snout looked perfect then. If there is an issue with it I'm cutting the ****ing car in half.

Unfortunately I'm on long island, so I won't be able to get to the car until this weekend. My plan right now is to check the dizzy to make sure everything matches up, add a degree or two of timing and lean it out. If the butt dyno doesn't feel an improvement then its time for more boost and re-doing the exhaust.


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## zoidmk5 (Sep 17, 2006)

your 2.5" DP is fine for those power levels, but upping the exhaust size isn't a bad idea. i didn't read through all of your posts, but are you still running the stock cat, high flow, or test pipe? anything other than stock is a plus. timing is def. a big issue, causing you to run rich. you need somebody to really get in there and do some pulls with that car and adjust the tune as you go along. its doing it no good making pulls for power right now without the tune atleast being in the ball park


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

zoidmk5 said:


> your 2.5" DP is fine for those power levels, but upping the exhaust size isn't a bad idea. i didn't read through all of your posts, but are you still running the stock cat, high flow, or test pipe? anything other than stock is a plus. timing is def. a big issue, causing you to run rich. you need somebody to really get in there and do some pulls with that car and adjust the tune as you go along. its doing it no good making pulls for power right now without the tune atleast being in the ball park


Actually when timing is on the money you need LESS fuel. Lean it out a bit, then advance the timing, then (more than likely) lean it out a little more.


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## turbodub (Jul 6, 2000)

check the crank gear.


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## [email protected] (Jan 2, 2009)

Ya, I was going to say, do a gut check on the EGT's- if the timing is off enough to kill the power like that, or something is clogged, it'll be putting off heat like mad and also ticking like crazy. 

Pete


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## 206danebmx (May 16, 2001)

like everybody else has stated, I think something is seriously wrong with your setup. my 16v turbo made 225whp (16psi) on a mustang dyno with full 2.5" exhaust, straight through muffler and resonator. Ignition timing at about 10 degrees and AFR around 12ish. turbo is t3/t4

Your IAT's are quite high, but that isn't enough to bring power that low.


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## sp_golf (Nov 28, 2007)

turbodub said:


> check the crank gear.


yup my car was slow as **** when my crank gear jumped.. re-set the timing and drove it for a year, made 400whp :laugh:


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## sp_golf (Nov 28, 2007)

zoidmk5 said:


> your 2.5" DP is fine for those power levels, but upping the exhaust size isn't a bad idea. i didn't read through all of your posts, but are you still running the stock cat, high flow, or test pipe? anything other than stock is a plus. timing is def. a big issue, causing you to run rich. you need somebody to really get in there and do some pulls with that car and adjust the tune as you go along. its doing it no good making pulls for power right now without the tune atleast being in the ball park


He said no cat, it's gotta be something else, I made 250whp @ 16psi with a stock 8v slightly clogged cat and crush bent 2.25" exhaust


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## 20vturbslo (Feb 26, 2010)

Dave926 said:


> I will need to investigate what others are using for mufflers. I wouldn't mind straight pipe, but cops are everywhere where I live, and I go on long trips frequently. I suppose the other solution is some form of electric cutout


3"DP to vibrant perf. resonator into a 2.5" borla pro xs. All 100% free flowing system unobstructed. :thumbup:

ill be around all weekend if you want to hear it/see it :laugh:


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

turbodub said:


> check the crank gear.





[email protected] said:


> Ya, I was going to say, do a gut check on the EGT's- if the timing is off enough to kill the power like that, or something is clogged, it'll be putting off heat like mad and also ticking like crazy.
> 
> Pete


Well I'm going to do a static timing check this weekend. I'm thinking that if the crank gear is off I should see the timing light will wander as the revs increase. I really doubt that is the issue, but this a vw we are talking about lol. 



maniakmax1788 said:


> 3"DP to vibrant perf. resonator into a 2.5" borla pro xs. All 100% free flowing system unobstructed. :thumbup:
> 
> ill be around all weekend if you want to hear it/see it :laugh:


Ill send you a pm.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

There is something obviously f'd! I am on board with timing, either mechanical or ignition is off. Check intercam as well.


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## boost_addict (Dec 4, 2009)

yes check you timing gear.. also check and make sure your trigger settings are correct.. if you have the wrong degree to tdc from the trig it wont be running the 12* you want it too..

i start at 12* on a basemap.. at 12* on pump gas at 14psi i can break the tires loose in almost all gears on my 16vt.. so you should be making WAY more power then that. my bet is your timing belt is off or cam chain, or you trigger settings are off.

hope this helps


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

need_a_VR6 said:


> There is something obviously f'd! I am on board with timing, either mechanical or ignition is off. Check intercam as well.


I am on the right track though with my theory that if the crank gear is fubar'd the timing mark is gonna move all over the place if I lock the timing in the ms?

Intercam has never been touched on my car, so there should be no reason for it to be off. If it is, then Im going to add that to the list of reasons to cut this ****ing car in half and burn it.



boost_addict said:


> yes check you timing gear.. also check and make sure your trigger settings are correct.. if you have the wrong degree to tdc from the trig it wont be running the 12* you want it too..
> 
> i start at 12* on a basemap.. at 12* on pump gas at 14psi i can break the tires loose in almost all gears on my 16vt.. so you should be making WAY more power then that. my bet is your timing belt is off or cam chain, or you trigger settings are off.
> 
> hope this helps


I think your turbo is a bit bigger than mine lol. 

Kinda forgot to mention something. Ive got a BBM headspacer on my car to drop it to 9:1, but when I put my tbelt on all the marks line up. I keep reading that it screws with the mechanical timing, but I dont understand how. Something where it throws it off a few degrees, but it doesnt make sense to me, and certainly does not seem logical that the car is losing power behind it. There are **** loads of people who double stack gaskets, and no one has ever mentioned altering the mechanical timing of the engine.


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## boost_addict (Dec 4, 2009)

i doubt the head spacer is your issue there are alot of people who have used them. i used double stacked gaskets on a 16v years ago.. 

my gti turbo is bigger. but even in my DIGI 1 corrado 16vt that i had years ago would break tires loose around 15psi. that was only a 57trim


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

I was just thinking that it might have altered the mechanical timing a bit, thus throwing things off.

Anyways its too hot to be working on the car, its about 102* outside right now.


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## sp_golf (Nov 28, 2007)

Dave926 said:


> I am on the right track though with my theory that if the crank gear is fubar'd the timing mark is gonna move all over the place if I lock the timing in the ms?


No just set the engine to TDC and check the timing marks. When mine went the key broke and wedged itself between the crank and gear, the timing was off by about a tooth and a half. Find TDC on the flywheel or thru the spark plug hole.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

I was always under the impression that broken keyway = inadvertant vtec.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Just checked static timing with ms. Set it 6* and hit it with the light. Around idle its a smidge wobbly, but was very stable and pretty much on the money to at least 5k. The mark on the flywheel did not drift AT ALL. 

Funny thing I found on the spark settings was Cranking Advance Angle was set to 10*, not sure why. Can the MS guru's chime in on this? I doubt it was causing me issues but who the **** knows.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Dave926 said:


> Just checked static timing with ms. Set it 6* and hit it with the light. Around idle its a smidge wobbly, but was very stable and pretty much on the money to at least 5k. The mark on the flywheel did not drift AT ALL.
> 
> Funny thing I found on the spark settings was Cranking Advance Angle was set to 10*, not sure why. Can the MS guru's chime in on this? I doubt it was causing me issues but who the **** knows.


The default setting for cranking advance is 10*, set it to whatever you want but if it works ( ie the enging starts without any drama) let it alone.


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## groundupjetta (Feb 1, 2010)

Not a ms guru but I think I got this. The crancking angle advance is only used when starting the car, it shouldnt have any effect after start up


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Prof315 said:


> The default setting for cranking advance is 10*, set it to whatever you want but if it works ( ie the enging starts without any drama) let it alone.


Exactly what I thought, but just throwing it out there.


Something I noticed reviewing my logs again, my coolant was rising artificially during the dyno run. Pretty sure its a noise issue, as I never noticed it before when I was using a bosch module (now using a BIP373). I don't have any coolant related conditional settings once the car is up to temp.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Dave926 said:


> Exactly what I thought, but just throwing it out there.
> 
> 
> Something I noticed reviewing my logs again, my coolant was rising artificially during the dyno run. Pretty sure its a noise issue, as I never noticed it before when I was using a bosch module (now using a BIP373). I don't have any coolant related conditional settings once the car is up to temp.


It wasn't rising artificially at all. Temp surges while making a dyno pull are common and worse if your timing is slightly retarded. It happens on N/A motors as well. I see it every time I tune a car on the dyno.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Prof315 said:


> It wasn't rising artificially at all. Temp surges while making a dyno pull are common and worse if your timing is slightly retarded. It happens on N/A motors as well. I see it every time I tune a car on the dyno.


That's interesting, I figured it was noise related. Logs showed it hit 270 or something ridiculous like that, but that does make sense. 

I added a few degrees of timing like you suggested, and it certainly made a considerable difference. Well that and compunded with 70* ambient temps probably helped as well.

I'm pretty satisfied with the mechanical/ignition timing being accurate. I think at this point it just needs more boost, as that 11-12 psi I hit on the dyno was right at redline. 

After the dyno the shop owner basically said it could be the matter of the turbo just not being in its efficiency range, 
where even an increase of a few psi could result in a huge power increase. The only other user on here I know of that was using one even said its not until 15-16psi (PG 8v) did his car really light up.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

I would say 'it depends.' If it's really quick spikes, its noise. If it's a slow rise, it's real.

I didn't catch this above, but have you confirmed that if you set timing fixed and rev the engine the timing doesn't move at all?


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

A bit wobbly at idle, but at higher rpm's (4k+) its rock solid. I am using a cdm timing light so I question its accuracy compared to something of better quality, but its right on the money. No timing drift up to at least 5k.

Had the timing belt off about 2months ago to do seals, and didn't even have to re time the dizzy after putting the belt on. I'm 99% sure that key way is fine.


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## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

sounds like you're on the right course. power will come on very quickly once you're in the ballpark of correct ignition timing. 4 or 5 degrees can add a substantial amount of power.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

I think I'm sitting around 16* now, not sure if I'm going to try for more. Next weekend after I get off long island if its not terribly hot the holset actuator (24 psi) is going on.


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## zoidmk5 (Sep 17, 2006)

you really just need a real tuner to go through and clean up the tune. the right tuner in an hour or less can give you a good street tune, then later take it to the dyno. if you go to Force Fed in NY than Kevin Black can tune it, and it doesn't get better than that


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

My driveabilty is spot on, the car drives just about perfect. Its the top end, inboost tuning that scares me a bit without a dyno.

There is a local shop where I dyno'd my car that I think I'm going to have them tune it eventually to get things dialed in. Their shop cars are nuts, and anything that rolls out of that shop is nuts. Granted they are a domestic shop, but an engine is an engine. Their rate is $85/hour with the credentials to back it.


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## groundupjetta (Feb 1, 2010)

$85- hour :thumbup:
This week I was asked $150 for an hour just for the dyno time for me to do my own tune! 
I ended up not doing it since I got it tuned already and just want to do a couple pulls to see what it clocks at

Mine is a 2.0 8v turbo with lowered compression and I'm running around 23* at 10 -12 psi of boost without detonation on a small smic. I'm running megasquirt also but still have the stock ecu so I can monitor the knock sensors with a vag-com and no problems so far


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Myliljettatoy said:


> $85- hour :thumbup:
> This week I was asked $150 for an hour just for the dyno time for me to do my own tune!
> I ended up not doing it since I got it tuned already and just want to do a couple pulls to see what it clocks at
> 
> Mine is a 2.0 8v turbo with lowered compression and I'm running around 23* at 10 -12 psi of boost without detonation on a small smic. I'm running megasquirt also but still have the stock ecu so I can monitor the knock sensors with a vag-com and no problems so far


Since your local, its SD Concept Engineering in West Warwick. Their address is 14 Daisy Street. 

That's pretty slick keeping the stock ecu in their for knock detection.


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## groundupjetta (Feb 1, 2010)

Yes for knock monitoring and other functions as my car is a mk4 and even my radio depends on my stock ecu :banghead:

Thanks for the address I will stop by them sometime this week. Let me know if you need anything :beer:


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Myliljettatoy said:


> Yes for knock monitoring and other functions as my car is a mk4 and even my radio depends on my stock ecu :banghead:
> 
> Thanks for the address I will stop by them sometime this week. Let me know if you need anything :beer:


They are good people, and owner's wife is pretty knowledgable, not justa pencil pusher so to speak. Probably the only place where they have bkr7e's in stock at all times.


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## 20vturbslo (Feb 26, 2010)

Dave926 said:


> bkr7e's in stock at all times.


good stuff :thumbup:

and Dave, thought you were stopping by saturday? I hope I didn't miss you, I got there late, around 130


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## MarcoVR6SC (May 3, 2003)

Dave926 said:


> I think I'm sitting around 16* now, not sure if I'm going to try for more. Next weekend after I get off long island if its not terribly hot the holset actuator (24 psi) is going on.


Before you up the boost to 24 psi, make sure you’re spot on at 12 psi, it’s probably just a timing problem, but who knows what other gremlins you have in there.

Too much retard with a lot of fuel, can drive combustion temps sky-high, which can induce detonating, or worse, pre-ignition.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

maniakmax1788 said:


> good stuff :thumbup:
> 
> and Dave, thought you were stopping by saturday? I hope I didn't miss you, I got there late, around 130


I've been working 3rd shift in LI, NY when I normally work 1st, so I just kind of caught up on sleep. 



MarcoVR6SC said:


> Before you up the boost to 24 psi, make sure you’re spot on at 12 psi, it’s probably just a timing problem, but who knows what other gremlins you have in there.
> 
> Too much retard with a lot of fuel, can drive combustion temps sky-high, which can induce detonating, or worse, pre-ignition.


Pretty sure its just a lack of boost at this point.


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## zoidmk5 (Sep 17, 2006)

Dave926 said:


> I've been working 3rd shift in LI, NY when I normally work 1st, so I just kind of caught up on sleep.
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty sure its just a lack of boost at this point.


if you already work in LI, NY, you can go an extra hour to Force Fed in Deer Park and get it tuned by guys who have proven time and time again that they know what they are doing


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

zoidmk5 said:


> if you already work in LI, NY, you can go an extra hour to Force Fed in Deer Park and get it tuned by guys who have proven time and time again that they know what they are doing


Car is still in RI, only here a few more days hopefully. Just a special 2 week project.


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