# 2007 2.5L vw rabbit spark plug gaps



## Codename-dnb (Jun 18, 2007)

2007 2.5L vw rabbit spark plug gaps
So after much searching a gave up and called a friend at a dealer for the answer to this question and now im posting it in the hopes that this will be easier for others to find.....

2007 2.5L vw rabbit spark plug gaps
NGK Part # PZFR5Q11 gap = 1.0 to 1.1 mm 
I verified with my old plugs they were gaped @ 1.0 mm
I was told that any single electrode platnum spark plug will work 
my friend used autolite platnum's part # ap5224 
and he has had no trouble with them i went ahead with the ngk oem replacement for mine.
so there you have it, a confirmed spark plug gap spec.


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## rustlerdude (Aug 13, 2007)

Your friend should give you the whole manual spec book wher that page came from. I have a billion copies of it for every model and it has loads of info.


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: (rustlerdude)*

My photo seem to be making the rounds http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Grab a Bentley manual, and you too can have the answers to your questions http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## mamey (Jan 28, 2005)

*Re: 2007 2.5L vw rabbit spark plug gaps (Codename-dnb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Codename-dnb* »_
I was told that any single electrode platnum spark plug will work 
my friend used autolite platnum's part # ap5224 


for the record,I was told the same, and just get Bosch FR 8 DPX plugs.. they were cheaper like $5 each and were pre gapped 1.1mm


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## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

mamey said:


> _Quote, originally posted by *Codename-dnb* »_
> I was told that any single electrode platnum spark plug will work
> my friend used autolite platnum's part # ap5224
> 
> ...


Damn. This is the info I was looking for before dropping $15 on each NGK plug...


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## rob454 (Sep 18, 2009)

Good thing you seen this too late because the verdict of most users in this forum are to stick to OEM plugs. :thumbup:

If Bosch were installed, 40k miles later you will be posting here on how to remove plugs that are permanently seized to the head.


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## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

rob454 said:


> Good thing you seen this too late because the verdict of most users in this forum are to stick to OEM plugs. :thumbup:
> 
> If Bosch were installed, 40k miles later you will be posting here on how to remove plugs that are permanently seized to the head.


Really? I missed those threads, too!


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## Xavior01 (Sep 30, 2007)

Hey guys i have a 06 2.5 and apparently they are calling for these NGK plugs as well, would you guys recommend the bosch solution or stick with the NGK's? A friend of mine said that vw uses denso plugs as oem, i could be wrong, but this would be nice to know because those are around $7 each.


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## Cherb32 (Jun 18, 2006)

07JettaMK5 said:


> ...Grab a Bentley manual, and you too can have the answers to your questions http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


.....x100000000000000.......Should have been the first purchase for the car...:thumbup:


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## '05JettaSPE (Jul 10, 2008)

Cherb32 said:


> .....x100000000000000.......Should have been the first purchase for the car...:thumbup:


It was my second purchase, the first was my vagcom :thumbup:


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## Zurique (Feb 15, 2008)

*xp iridium*

Don't go with Autolite XP iridium. I had on my Jetta and one of the tips basically melted after 25k. They suck. Go with NGK.


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## kaptinkangaru (Aug 17, 2006)

rob454 said:


> Good thing you seen this too late because the verdict of most users in this forum are to stick to OEM plugs. :thumbup:
> 
> If Bosch were installed, 40k miles later you will be posting here on how to remove plugs that are permanently seized to the head.


 
how does bmw get around this "seizing" problem?


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## vw93to85 (May 10, 2007)

kaptinkangaru said:


> how does bmw get around this "seizing" problem?


 

Anti seize. Put a little on the threads before you install the plugs. The 2nd weekend I owned my car I pulled the plugs and did this. Never had an issues.


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## Luby A. (Dec 17, 2014)

*Anti-seize compound, Use on spark plug threads*

This is my first post, even though I have used information from a number of posts about various subjects. To those of you who have taken the trouble to post pictures and provide detailed visuals of your work. I want you to know that I appreciate and applaud your dedication and your enthusiasm. Bless you all with extra horsepower! 

This particular minor issue seems to have caused some concern but the Technical Bulletin from NGK - http://www.ngkplugpro.ca/content/contentfiles/pdf/NGKSP-0907-1R-Anti-SeizeonSparkPlugs.pdf - for reference is provided, but in summary - using oil or any lubricant (anti-seize) on any threaded fastener (including wheel nuts) and you can expect some measure of adverse affect when reaching the torque values when wet versus dry. The bulletin explains what appears to happen at the thread/cylinder head contact area with spark plugs treated with anti-seize. 

When I started out as an aircraft mechanic many years ago we were told to use anti-seize. But plugs were typically steel bodied and would remain in the aluminum air cooled cylinder heads for years before removal or change (removal is based on hours of operation, not miles flown) . Imagine a an old car with low mileage for a correlation. Typically those plugs were not really that sophisticated compared to the new platinum, trivalent bodied plugs used in automobiles today. Until very recently I used anti-seize on my OEM recommended plugs when installing in my VW's (1989, 1990, 1997, 1998, 2009, 2012) . I have changed out dozens if not a couple of hundred plugs without an issue. Never cross-threaded (which should be your biggest concern) and never over tightened even when using the "click elbow"(bad practice) rather than a torque wrench.


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