# DIY: MKIV Jetta - Viper 5701 2Way-Remote Start/Keyless/Alarm



## Jettas19902005 (Feb 7, 2006)

*Installing Viper 5701 2 Way-Remote Start/Keyless/Alarm*
*Vehicle: 2004.5 Jetta GLI 6Spd*









My Car...








*The Unit*
















Contents: 








Your Best Friend-The Installation Manual








The Brain








(H1) Primary Harness(12 Pin Connector)








(H2) Auxiliary Harness(8 Pine Connector)








(H3)Remote Start Heavy Gauge Harness(10 Pin Connector)








Remote Start auxiliary output(5 Pin Connector)
Remote Start auxiliary input(5 Pin Connector)








Hood Pin/Valet/Antenna
















(1) One way remote (1) Two way remote and cool stickers
















6 Sound Siren








451 M-Dual Relay-Used with many options but interfaces easily with afermarket door lock actuators.
Main Tools for ease of installation:
1. Crimpers/Cutters(*****)
2. Strippers(12-22 Gauge Wire)
3. Electrical Tape (3m)
4. Solder
5. Soldering Iron
6. Panel Poppers 
7. Torx Set(Bits or Torxdrivers)
8. Phillips #2
9. DMM- Digital Multimeter
10. Heat Shrink
11. Box cutter/Utility Knife
12. Split Loom-(couple different sizes(1/4"/1/2"/1"))
13. Diodes-(For parking lights because there is a wire for each side of the vehicle).








3M Tape Super 33+








Snips/Crimpers-(Blue Point)
*Additional Hardware
*
1. 556UW-Universal Immobilizer Bypass.
2. Bitwriter-to program your alarm system for particular functions, it is not neccessary but will make changing settings substantially easier.








*Step One: Bench Preperation*
I am going to start with the main power harness which contains: (10 pin plug with 9 pins)
Starting from the back of the plug from the top left facing the back of the plug, I will identify all wires in this harness
Listed in the manual they list it as-"Heavy Gauge Remote Start, (H3) 10 Pin Connector
12345
678910(Ten is Blank/Empty)
This is what you will start with:

























*1*Pink(+ Ignition 1 Input/Output) 
*2*Red White(30Amp Fused Ignition 2/ Flex Relay Input 87
*3*Orange(Accessory Output)
*4*Violet(+ Starter Output(Car side of the starter kill))
*5*Green(+Starter Input(Key side of the starter kill))
*6*Red(+ Fused (30Amp) Ignition and Input)
*7*Pink/White(+ Ignition 2/ Flex relay output)
*8*Pink/BlackFlex Relay Input 87A Key side (if required) of flex relay)
*9*Red/Black(Fused 30Amp Accessory/Starter Input)
*10*(Blank)
Here are some of the 2004 Jetta Schematics
The Ignition Harness can be found underneath the steering column/under dash
1.12V(Constant)(Red Common 110A (+))-Ignition Harness
2.Second 12V(Constant)(Red Common 110A (+))-Ignition Harness
3.Starter(Red/Black or Red/Gray)
4.Ignition(Black)
5.Accessorry(Acc.)(Black/Red)
6.Key Sense(Brown/Red)
















These are all the wire colors that can be found under the dash at the ignition harness to hook up your remote start Heavy Gauge (H3) Wires aka 10 Pin.
With the 10 pin harness we are going to slim it down for cleanliness and ease of installation. Attach all three red wires after the fuses(Red/Red/Black,Red/White) these are all the 30Amp fused wires on the Heavy Gauge Harness. 








I went a head and loomed the top because its stationary and wont be adjusted in length. Attach all three Red(12V) Wires after the fuses DONT cut them off, keep the fuses. This harness has 3 Ignition wires(Pinks) for vehicles with multiple ignition outputs. But in our case we only have one. Keep the sold pink at full length and snip PINK/WHITE & PINK/BLACK (I snip them at different lengths to avoid interferance )down where they can be used if necessary but not all the way off. Tape over fuses for saftey and security-So they A) So the legs of the fuses arnt able to touch ground B) So they will stay in better.
The reason you can attach all three 12V (reds) is because they all need 12V, and it makes it easier attaching only one to the ignition harness in your vehicles car instead of 3 (CONSOLIDATING)

Here is what you have once you do that.









Whats left after consolidation








Loomed/Taped and Consolidated








The three red wires connected as one after the fuses-NOTE: With a DDM check for continuity between the red wire(s) to make sure you have a good connection. Also use solder for main power wires, and all if possible.
*Wires to match*
Bold=Car colors
*1.12V(Constant)(Red Common 110A (+))-Ignition Harness
2.Starter(Red/Black or Red/Gray)
3.Ignition(Black)
5.Accessorry(Acc.)(Black/Red)*
1. 12V with alarm(Red)
2. Starter(Key side-Green)
2a. Starter(Starter side-Violet)
3. Ignition(Pink)
4. Accessory(Orange)
*Next on the list is the (H1) The Primary Harness-12 Pin Connector*

We will be using everything on this 12 Pin Plug except:
*1. White/Brown=Light Flash*
*2. Violet=Door Trigger Input (+)*
*3.White/Blue=Turbo timer activation input*
*4.Orange=(-) 500mA Ground when armed*
*Note/Reason:Light Flash*
This wire connects to 87A of the onboard light flash relay. This is an internal relay built into the brain. The set up is used with chryslers. If the vehivle has a multiplex circuit that needs the light switch isolates, you can remove the onbard light flash fuse built into the brain and replace it with the specified resistor. Also snip the wire so that it can be used incase of error/emergency.
*Note/Reasonositive Door Trigger Input*
We will not use this wire because from the factory our wiring for door triggers are negative, inturn use the negative trigger wire.
*Note/Reason:White/Blue*
You would you use this if you had a external timer which I don't at the moment.
*Note/Reason:Orange*
You would use this if you had to add window modules.








Before








After
















Cut all wire listed above for the 12 Pin Primary Harness(H1)








The Primary Harness has a fuse 12V wire that can be attached after the other fuses, from the Heavy Gauge (H3) 10 Pin Connector Harness from above(Red 12V)








And what you are left with after you cut the 4 wires from the list above.
1.Red/White(-)-200mA Trunk release output
2.Red(+)-12V Constant Input
3.Brown-Siren Output
4.Black-Chasis Ground-You can attach this to another ground from the factory or a nice peice of unpainted metal, with self tapping screws and ground ring terminals.
5.Blue(-)-Trunk pin/Light Instant Trigger Input-We use this so that if the trunk is opened while the alarm is armed it will trigger the brain/siren. You can attach this at the rear trunk light or @ the CCM(Comfort Control Module. (@ 23 pin plug, pin 10)
6.Green(-)-Door Trigger input- Since the jetta uses a negative charge for the door trigger we will be using this instead of the (+). In some vehicles you must diode isolate each door because they use individual wires for each door but in our case the jetta onles uses on which is nice!
7.Black/White(-)-200mA Dome Light Supervision Output- this cuts on when your vehicle has been disarmes. You don't have to hook this up but if you wanted to stay factory you might want to go this way. Conviently the jetta has a negative polarity for its dome light.
8.White- Parking Light Output-You have to diode isolate this wire coming from the alarm. Twist the diodes together with sides that will not let (+) current flow black to the alarm. In my case the side without silver.
I went a head and sniped all wires from the H1 Harness I didn't need taped them up and loomed before the fuse. on the left you have the H1 Harness and on the right you have the main heavy gauge H3 harness.








Diodes used for Parking Lights-Voltage flows out towards the silver rings on the ends and wont let if flow back the opposite way.
*8 Pin Auxiliary Harness (H2)
*-You only need the solid blue wire in this harness.
1.Light Green/Black (-) 200mA Factory alarm disarm output. We do not need to use this because the factory alarm disarms with unlocking the doors.
2.Light Green/White(-) 200mA Factory alarm arm output. We do not need to use this because this factory alarm arms with locking the doors.
3.White/Violet-Aux 1-x
4.Violet/Black-Aux 2-x
5.White/Black-Aux 3-x
6.Light Blue(-) 200mA 2nd unlock output- I am using this so that when you click your remote once only the driver door opens and then the second click on unlock it will release the remaing three.
7.Gray/Black(-) Diesel wait to start-N/A
8.Brown/Black(-) 200mA Horn Honk Output. I am not using this because the system comes with alarm siren. I would only use this only with a system that had only keyless or something.


























Plug in:Toggle switch, Door lock/unlock, and valet/antenna cables.
I cut my togg switch off because I am using a custom mounted LED toggle mounted in the red tray by the ciggerette plug. Also to get your door lock and unlock harness snip it off the 451m.
















*Remote Start Auxiliary Output 5 Pin*
All you need from this harness is the Blue wire which is a (-) 200mA Status Output








*Remote Start Auxiliary Input 5 Pin*
I don't have any pictures of this but you are going to use all wires, except the rear defogger unless you dont want to use that. (Blue/White=Rear Defogger on the Remote Start Auxiliary Input 5 Pin Harness.
*Bypass Module Harness 556UW*
You only need the red, black, and blue. (12V,Ground,Status input).
There is a wire with a ring on the end of it that is about 4inches in diameter that goes around the key cylinder. 









































What it looks like when you are basically done with your bench prepping.
I will list all appropriate Jetta wiring information in the next section will be the installation. 

Feel free to IM me, with question about things I have covered.




_Modified by Jettas19902005 at 1:38 AM 3-2-2009_


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## menace1930 (Jun 7, 2005)

*Re: DIY: MKIV Jetta - Viper 5701 2Way-Remote Start/Keyless/Alarm (Jettas19902005)*

Are you going to install any type of neutral safety switch for the remote start? Im not sure if your tranny will have a gear position indicator on it. You may want to look into a DEI 689M Neutral Safety Module


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## Jettas19902005 (Feb 7, 2006)

I will most definitely check that out thank you!


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## slipknot14469 (Jul 10, 2006)

watching!


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*Re: (slipknot14469)*

Don't forget about the immobilizer.


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## Jettas19902005 (Feb 7, 2006)

Yeah for sure, its at my parents just haven't gotten around to snapping pictures, thanks though.


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## triple square (Feb 4, 2009)

*Re: DIY: MKIV Jetta - Viper 5701 2Way-Remote Start/Keyless/Alarm (menace1930)*

Watching!
You will definitely need a neutral safety switch if you want to use the remote start. OR disconnect the (1) of the two clutch sensors located behind the pedal *Not Recommended* Forgetting it in gear, and cruise control problems may become a nightmare. 
ALSO! Not sure of your model but with my 791xv a DEI Bitwriter is a MUST. Trying to program with the valet switch can be scary. 
http://cgi.ebay.com/DEI-998T-B...l1116
With a Bitwriter (maybe with the valet switch too) you can program a "long signal" into your lock/unlock(like a triple tap on unlock, or unlock+aux). This will allow you to utilize the VW window up/down feature without having to integrate the DEI Window automation system(at least you can on a 791xv). 
I would also recommend a glass break sensor(506T) or Invisibeam(508D) so you can tune down the included motion sensor. Neighbors get pissed when the wind sets your alarm off!


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## Jettas19902005 (Feb 7, 2006)

Wow awesome input guys, it is really appreciated, I am actually picking up a bitwriter from the circuit city in my town that is going out of business for 10 bucks


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## triple square (Feb 4, 2009)

*Re: (Jettas19902005)*

$10..?????...UGHHHH







thats an awesome deal. 
Your alarm looks newer. You may want to check the version on the bitwriter to see if it's firmware is at the latest version. I think the latest is 2.5 
There are some enhancements with the newer versions that may be helpful. You can buy the upgrade chip on ebay for about $15.
http://cgi.ebay.com/DEI-998U-B...l1116


_Modified by triple square at 2:22 PM 3-1-2009_


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## Jettas19902005 (Feb 7, 2006)

Haha yeah, 10 bucks I was pretty happy.
Yes, I am going to look neutral saftey switch, window roll up/down, and glass break sensor.


_Modified by Jettas19902005 at 1:51 AM 3-2-2009_


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*Re: (Jettas19902005)*

topic of interest:
deactivating alarm, activating remote start, and keeping the doors locked


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## Jettas19902005 (Feb 7, 2006)

So you are wondering how I am going to deactivate the factory to allow me to remote start without triggering the factory siren, and keeping the doors locked because that is the way the factory alarm disarms is with unlock.


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## Jettas19902005 (Feb 7, 2006)

possibly some relay systems


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## Jettas19902005 (Feb 7, 2006)

I just asked one of my buddies that is an experienced installer and he said he had done some volkswagens and hadn't had any trouble with it doing that. But I do see what your getting at I guess we will have to wait and see.


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## sgolf2000 (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: (Pat @ Pitt Soundworks)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pat @ Pitt Soundworks* »_topic of interest:
deactivating alarm, activating remote start, and keeping the doors locked 

tap factory alarm disarm into the unlock wire and rearm into lock. doors will unlock prior to RS, relock right after it starts. good point cause i did not see those wires used. also turn on comfort closure which will roll up your windows when you arm it. lock/unlock wires(factory arm/ disarm are in the door at the module.)run wires in there for trunk pop too. will need a relay as the - output from the brain isnt strong enough to pop the trunk.
edit:you do not need the 451m and if you want "real" door pins and not the dome wire, you need to run a wire into each door and diode isolate


_Modified by sgolf2000 at 10:20 PM 3-2-2009_


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*Re: (sgolf2000)*

Can you elaborate a little more? I had some trouble following that. Must be getting tired or something.
Are you saying:
factory alarm disarm wire -> remote start module unlock wire
factory alarm arm wire -> remote start module lock wire
The rest I'm totally lost on


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## sgolf2000 (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: (Pat @ Pitt Soundworks)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pat @ Pitt Soundworks* »_
Are you saying:
factory alarm disarm wire -> remote start module unlock wire
factory alarm arm wire -> remote start module lock wire


correct
as for the rest.
-the brain will disarm the factory alarm, prior to RS through the unlock wire
-and rearm after the vehhicle starts, via the factory rearm wire, locking the doors(you can use the low aperage green and blue wires from the brain without the 451m doorlock relay.)
-the red/white (-neg) wire for aux from the brain wont pop the hatch if you use the switch in the door. so you need a relay.
-i mentioned door pins. you can use the domelight wire for the door pin. but if you want the real pin for an opened door, you have to get them inside each individual door also.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*Re: (sgolf2000)*

Ok cool.
Would you just wire each door pin together to the to the alarm door pin wire, with a diode right before the junction?
Looking through the bently and the 556u manual, you can use the the factory transponder ring from the CCM using the green wire on pin 2 and black wire on pin 17.


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## Jettas19902005 (Feb 7, 2006)

This will help me out alot


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## sgolf2000 (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: (Pat @ Pitt Soundworks)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pat @ Pitt Soundworks* »_Ok cool.
Would you just wire each door pin together to the to the alarm door pin wire, with a diode right before the junction?
Looking through the bently and the 556u manual, you can use the the factory transponder ring from the CCM using the green wire on pin 2 and black wire on pin 17.

never tried the 556 like that on a vw. but it sounds good. and you could conciel the key better, if nothing was running to the key ring also


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*Re: (sgolf2000)*

the 556u connects the factory transponder to it's wiring when not under remote start. Connect one of the factory wires to black/white AND black/red and the other to black. Says in the manual that it works for european cars.


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## wreckedmyteg (Mar 23, 2006)

*Re: (Pat @ Pitt Soundworks)*

I'm curious, why didn't you use the DEI VW CAN1 can-bus adapter?
It probably would have simplified things greatly.


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## Jettas19902005 (Feb 7, 2006)

I had heard alot negative things about the data modules so i did not want to bother with them and everyone i knew that has done vw remote starts uses the 556uw so i chose that incase i needed to trouble shoot


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## Jettas19902005 (Feb 7, 2006)

So I have been really busy working, and what not and had some questions for someone that may have answers. First question: In the primary harness 12 pin there is a trunk instant trigger not a trunk pop, and according to dei i can catch this wire at the ccm on the 23 pin connector or like some people have done it at the rear light in the trunk. I found the wire. Do i need to diode isolate this wire, also i have seen like in this guy trumpsters diy i think he just used the door trigger wire and diode isolated all 2fronts of his gti and the hatch. I am unsure if i need to use the trunk instant trigger or just door trigger and diode isolate. Please help....


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## sgolf2000 (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: (Jettas19902005)*

the blue wire on your h1 harness will be the trunk instant trigger. no diode needed if you are using it only for the vehicles trunk pin. the red/white on the h1 harness is for trunk pop(aux button) if you use the wire at the switch in the door, you will need a relay to strengthen the - pulse of the output.


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## Jettas19902005 (Feb 7, 2006)

Okay thats what I will do, is hook up the blue h1 wire to the instant trigger which i know can be found in the CCM. Also I believe I can catch the trunk pop red/white wire at the CCM do I still need the relay there?


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## blazerpounds (Mar 19, 2008)

556uws are bulletproof. anything else for any vehicle is more than likely not worth the hassle.
the loop around the key cylinder will typically work best, sometimes youll need to use the other wires
his model has clutch cancel built in
WAY nice deal on bitwriter... ill give ya 15!
the "long pulse" is called comfort closure. program for 30 sec
Nice prep. I dont use loom, just rolls upon rolls of blacktape, but hey... to each their own.
I dont like the way you twsited 12v wire to the other, I prefer t-splices... but its your install...
lastly... I wish i still had access all the time to directwire. pw/login pls?


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## Jettas19902005 (Feb 7, 2006)

Thanks man actually most of the loom was removed due to location where the brain goes. I personally wouldnt try it unless you knew exactly where it was going and what not because alot of the time you will have to relocate


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## sgolf2000 (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: (Jettas19902005)*

my brain is strapped to the bar that runs along the back of the dash, easily axcessable if you pull the cluster, but not if you dont.


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## Jettas19902005 (Feb 7, 2006)

gotcha thanks again. I have been really confused for awhile about somethings but i think i have cleared them up mentally so i can finally do some physical work.


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## miguel6632 (Jan 16, 2012)

wish those pics were up? i know its an old thread but man its so helpfull


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## staradeh (Dec 13, 2016)

*viper*

Dear
I have jetta 1.9 TDI Manual and I wanna install Viper 5706v
I have some trouble in the car wires>
would u plz give me a table containing the car wire colors, function and its location 
thanks


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## jonat-ascja (Sep 29, 2017)

Can't see the images.


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