# Problems with Weber 32/36 Dfev



## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

(Older photo, upgraded the FPR to a 1-4 psi Holley with performance lines and fittings)
Been trying to figure these issues out with my carb. It's on a 1.8l 8v engine. Had the carb "rebuilt" but I'm almost positive the mechanic did nothing but lube my Linkage and charged me 135$. I've noticed that I'm missing a few of the correct pieces for my fast idle screw and the spring. My choke butterfly's do not move with my throttle when warmed up. So I disconnected the electric choke and I believe it's moving now.
I don't think that effects my drivability that much though. 
Here's my spark plugs after a week








By than it was misfiring. I've tried to adjust my air/fuel mixture screw while it's warm and try to tune it to ear, but even if it's running smooth'ish it's super rich or lean and the plugs get fouled. Anyone have a similar setup or know these carbs well? I've been fighting with this since the swap and am unable to go Fuel injected route currently. Thank you in advance.


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

Also just put the pcv into the atmosphere somewhere away from carb since than.


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## DbilasTDI (Nov 5, 2017)

The choke could be causing most or all of this.

Adjust the choke by loosening the 3 screws retaining the white choke housing. With the engine at operating temps rotate the white housing until the choke blades just get vertical. This ensures the choke is wide open when hot. Make sure you have 12V at the choke with engine running. Make sure the choke closes with a cold engine and the key on. If everything checks out, clean your plugs and drive it.

If the choke refuses to work, I would just remove the electric stove portion and use a cable - done.

Timing should be at 6° BTDC

The mixture screw only sets the idle at mixture - this is easy enough to do by ear or with a vaccum gauge: adjust for highest vaccum.

You might want to go with a next hotter range spark plug

These are good little carbs, no reason you can't get it working very nicely: don't despair



Please report back with your findings. Best of Luck


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

That's honestly good to hear.
I will have to do this either this week or next. Working on moving states currently. 

That's interesting about the mixture screw at idle I didn't know that.

Okay that sounds like a good idea as well.
I really appreciate it! I wanted to get back to you before it was too late. Just saw this response today; thought no-one could help! 
I will check all those things ASAP.
Thank you again, I'll have to post up a video or something so you can see exactly what's going on.


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

Have tried to diagnose this multiple times, the choke seems to be locked open. It's missing the bolt/spring that goes in to keep it closed when cold until you hit the throttle. 
Also I noticed a very large amount of fuel dumping down one of the barrels. It has been running, but extremely poorly and uses a ton of gas and smells horrible.
So I haven't been driving it and doing the things you recommended DbilasTDI. 
choke seems to be always open. I turnt the thermostat but it won't stay closed because it's missing that bolt and spring. Replaced the bolt with a spare. 
I went straight for my FPR to try to decrease that fuel literally dumping down my carb barrel. Turned it down a bit; but my brand new gauge from jegs stopped working week after I bought it. 
Once I turn it down, the whirring stops from the carb. Sounds more like a trickle and it smells way better in the atmosphere. Also my idle speed raises a couple thousand RPM's and it smooths out a ton. Sounds like a whole new engine. Lots more power also, and can rev it up in place.
Right when I think it's good, shut the hood and try to put the load on it, it sputters out and dies. 
I'm extremely slim on cash at this point or I would try plugs. But by the look of just shining a light down my barrel and it literally looks like a sink was barely left on pouring fuel and gagging it up I would guess that's my issue. 
Do I need a Rejet? Or rebuild? This is really frustrating. I appreciate you're positivity but this carb is giving me the damn run around.


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## DbilasTDI (Nov 5, 2017)

It sounds like your top gasket may be leaking and perhaps the accelerator pump not working. Was this carb on a shelf a long time after once being used? You can get a gasket kit easily and you can always clean the plugs. 

So what is your fuel pump? I would think it is nigh impossible to choke down a CIS pump to carb levels. I am using a cheap Mr Gasket pump from Autozone with good results. Also you need a return line going back to the tank from the regulator. IF you have an older block with a mechanical fuel pump hole, a mechanical pump would work great and you can get one for < $15 delivered on EBay. Search for 1980 Dodge Omni fuel pump - it was a 1.7 VW mill. Notice too that even the mechanical pump has a return lin to the tank.


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

Hmmm. Okay, I just ordered a rebuild kit for the carb. Comes with new acc pump, gaskets as well as the power valve. This will be the first time I’ve ever rebuilt it myself. Any tips? 

I have a 1-4 psi elderbrock external fuel pump mounted beneath my tank. Deleted the stock fuel pump and it’s wiring.
I do not have a return line connected! Could this be my issue? For some reason I didn’t think it was necessary as long as I kept psi around 3.5 to the carb. Obviously I’m no master tech. But I’m learning quickly.
My FPR has 2 outlets. I can just use the extra one I have plugged and run it back to my tank for a return?
And I believe my block does not have a fuel pump hole.

You’ve been great help. Thank you for trying to get this sorted out with me. It’s my only ride and I need it to get to a job! 



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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

Also this is the forum I followed when deleting my stock fuel pump. So it’s exactly what I have on mine also.


























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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

Rebuild kit should be here by Tuesday. 
Pulled the carb today. Noticed a jet that was pretty loose. Marked 165; what could this effect? Also noticed that one of the barrels is significantly charred. The other is not. What caused this? 










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## DbilasTDI (Nov 5, 2017)

165 is the main jet. being loose could be the source of your excessive fuel. the black it probably just carbon. If there was burning, the venturi can get damaged. Clean it up with some carb cleaner spray and see how it looks. Do you have Edelbrock pump part #?


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

Okay, I made sure they were all nice and snug when I did the rebuild. Cleaned up pretty well but I definitely found some gunk. I’ll post pictures.
Edelbrock pump part # is 17301 it’s the 4-7 psi pump.
So after remounting carb and scrubbed my plugs and checked gap, it wouldn’t fire up right away, so I turned my regulator up a little. I don’t think it was get any gas previously cause I even turned the key a few times to pressurize the lines and fill the bowl or whatever. So it fires up, and seems like it’s running really good and smelled better too. 
I took it for a drive up the block and it made it there and back with no problem. Had tons more power. Than I go on another drive shortly after that night. While warming up, I notice it starts to smell again. And it basically returns to the way it was before I rebuilt the carb. 

2 things I did realize I didn’t go over are: I forgot to measure the float. Also I thought I positioned the spacer between carb and intake correctly but apparently it’s flipped. And I read somewhere that if it isn’t oriented right that it won’t match the smaller primary and larger secondary. So I need to go back and fix those 2 things.
Also when I turn the car off, I get a very nice loud backfire like a gunshot  I assumed this was because I don’t have a return and its left with a little fuel when shut off. 
But a local mechanic told me my carburetor doesn’t need a return. And to check my idle speed.

After I fix those 2 things, what should I go for next? This carb was running really well the first test drive after mounting it which I don’t understand. Thank you again for all the help. Here’s some photos of my rebuild process 

Power valve was basically all the way screwed out also









Dirty filter 

















All clean


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

Today I tried messing with the carb some more. I removed it and fixed the spacer. Also measured the float 18mm from gasket base and needle and seat to have 2mm of travel to the best of my ability.
I also flipped my primary throttle plate because I had it upside down and made sure they both cover the fuel enrichening progression holes. 
Put everything back together and fired it up.
It hesitated a bit on startup but I’m assuming was just pressurizing, so I began to warm it up to try to tune it. Once it was warm it was like the air/fuel mixture screw was doing nothing unless it was all the way screwed in. Than the rpms, would raise. At some points I was messing with my throttle linkage cause it was to tight and the car was running with it completely removed from the carb. Also while tuning my headers were literally beginning to glow red. Not good. As far as I’m concerned it’s running to lean now? Smells like burnt burnt barbecue or something haha.
But on the plus side there’s not a ton of fuel getting thrown down the barrel now.
So how do I find the sweet spot? Of course an air fuel ratio gauge would be cool but I don’t got the dough. 
And what do I need to adjust? My fuel pressure regulator? Than carb? How do I keep myself from just jumping back and forth between adjusting the regulator and carb? Just trying to keep this updated cause I’ll forget small details shortly. Cheers!




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## DbilasTDI (Nov 5, 2017)

Turning the mixture screw in should make it lean as it lessens the fuel. You have extra fuel going in somewhere. Glad to hear you are making progress.


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

I got it tuned up fairly well and it was smelling better. Oil change and plugs recently after tune. But than shortly after it started smelling like un-burnt fuel. Do I maybe need a hotter range of plugs?


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## DbilasTDI (Nov 5, 2017)

If your plugs continue to foul out, then yes


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## DbilasTDI (Nov 5, 2017)

Check this out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A44-xG3pKlY


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

Thank you for that! I watched them all.


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## DbilasTDI (Nov 5, 2017)

this too https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRKOEQ-TFNk


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

So I just recently installed a AEG AFR Gauge. Since the install it’s stayed at 10.0 at idle. Also from watching the videos the only way to increase air is by jet size I believe. Car is still running rich. I screwed with the distributer a bit to see if I could get a better or smoother idle. Now she wants to smoke a lot. 
Would you recommend getting a jet kit or possibly just bigger air jets? 
Nothing I do changes the 10.0 air to fuel ratio at idle. Not even the afr screw on carb. 
Also thank you again for all the help and the videos. I’ve watched them numerous times to gather information.


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## DbilasTDI (Nov 5, 2017)

wow awesome you got the gauge and are making progress. Yes I would get the kit. I would go for a smaller idle jet to start.


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

Thank you, I agree! Installation was easy, already had the bung on my header. I was disappointed when nothing I could do would change the ratio on the gauge though. Okay, hopefully this will be the one of my last purchases for this car for a while. Have been spending to much money on it, when maybe I should just save for something reliable. 
Also I do think I want to go back over my timing. And I’m assuming I’d do that before messing with the carbs jets? 
I don’t understand how you’d time a car correctly If the carburetor isn’t functioning right. But maybe I’m just not grasping this whole ideal yet haha. I appreciate all the help.



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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

Also previously you said that loose jet labeled 165 was a main jet, but I believe it’s a air corrector jet. I think the main jets are down in the bowl.


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

Which jet kit would you recommend? I’m at 2,500 ft.
Here’s this one, High altitude it says is 2500 plus but my google search says differently. Comes with a few different things than the second https://www.lceperformance.com/Weber-32-36-Jet-Kit-High-Elevation-Fuel-Economy-p/1035002.htm
And than there is a high elevation and non on this other website here, with some different jets.








I’d want either one that says DFEV or DFAV. I don’t got the DG carb in case you didn’t know. I’ll probably call this carb place when I get a chance as well and ask them.


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## DbilasTDI (Nov 5, 2017)

Wow, altitude never entered my mind. Def go for the high altitude kit. I know its money and a bit of work. My DCOE setup is about $25-$30 just to change one jet cause you hafta buy 4 of them and shipping.

As long as you can get it down under 1000 RPM and set the timing to 6° that would be good to start. I think once you get the mixture thinned out a little it will be easy to get a good idle speed. Anyway get it at 6° and proceed with the carb tuning. Once the fueling is good, you can seek incremental gains by increasing the advance a couple degrees at a time.

Since you have a single carb you can use a vacuum gauge connected to ported vacuum to help with the idle adjustment: adjust to highest vacuum, however it sounds like you have advanced to the point of being able to do it by ear pretty well.

The fuel jets are the BIG change and then you fine tune it with the air jets. By the time you have this running good you will be quite knowledgeable on the subject.


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

Yeah and considering my move no wonder my carb is so upset. I went from 300ft above sea level to 2,500. When I moved from WA to ID. Granted it wasn’t running perfect there either but hopefully I’ve got this under control.
It’s on it’s way! I called the website too but they weren’t very helpful. And oh damn that’s a pain.

Okay, makes sense! And I hope so. I’m gonna tinker this weekend. I’ll let you know the outcome!
Okay I may try the Vac. Gauge.
Good to know, thank you.
I sure I hope so. I have been learning since I got this carb haha. But I definitely enjoy it.


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

Hey also I just found this little walkthrough on ignition timing. 
https://www.calverst.com/technical-info/distributor-initial-ignition-timing-set-up/
Think I should run through it? It was pretty straightforward, I don’t think I really understood the detonation part, I guess I’d have to hear it. I’m just not sure what that sounds like haha. 


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

Got the jets in the mail today. 
Also got a timing light and vacuum gauge yesterday. Went at it trying to get it running better but I wasn’t having any luck. Firstly I replaced my Fuel pressure gauge, JEGS sent me a replacement since mine wasn’t working. And turned fuel pressure up to 2.5. Ran after I did that and also for some reason my ratio increased to about 11.0. Than I started to time the ignition. I couldn’t see the mark in my bell housing when I was using the light. I even painted it white to help. While trying to find the mark my engine sorta smoothed out and idled down, than completely died.
Tried to fire it back up and I believe my starter solenoid got stuck. First time thats happened. I unplugged battery and than gave it a wack. It stopped buzzing but now the engine won’t start at all it just turns over. 
I can smell fuel in the carb barrel so I’m pretty sure it’s getting fuel



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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

What would cause my fuel pump fuse to not receive power? I can hear my relay clicking over but my pump usually makes a noise when the key is turned on and car is running. Currently the pump isn’t getting power thus it makes 0 sound at either points and I’m postitive this is why the car won’t start. 


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

Bypassed it by wiring up my instrument lights to my fuel pump fuse. Not sure this is the safest idea but it worked. Which I’m assuming tells me the problem is before my fuse box.
Also I replaced a 50 idle jet with a 45 “secondary idle” I didn’t have any smaller primary idle jets. Does this matter? It looked the same and fit fine but I noticed no difference. Also I don’t get much of a vacuum reading. Here’s a photo. I may try to go with a bigger air corrector and see if it changes my ratio at all but it’s getting darker. 


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

Dosent move much when I adjust the AFR screw either


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

I think you have a big problem there


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

Since the last post I’ve installed a new 32/36 DFEV. Put fresh oil in her and replaced the plugs and oil filters. First startup was a little rough. Engine was cold and it was idling at about 2,500. I tried adjusting the amount the choke was open but it stayed pretty no mater the adjustments I made. Fast idle screw wasn’t even set on the carb body. 
I’m assuming I need to lower my main idle jet? It’s still smoking a ton and just after one startup my brand new plugs looked like this. Currently I have a 50 primary idle jet, I’m gonna try a 45 and 40.
Is there a difference between primary and secondary idle jets? Cause the website I’m buying them from doesn’t differentiate. Thank you for the response.


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

I was meaning the vacuum reading. that is very very low. have you checked your cam timing? or maybe your exhaust is choked badly.


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

not sure about what jets you need, but if the engine runs at all. it should give a much better vacuum reading than what you have. check your cam timing first:thumbup:


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

just for reference, i'm getting 18 inhg at idle on a warm engine. and that's with a modified head and cam:thumbup:


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

Okay thank you for that. 
Do you think me not having my PCV connected is doing this? Currently it all just vents out the top of the valve cover. I had it ported into the carb on my last carb but it wasn’t correct and put lots of crap into my carb. 
I believe it’s supposed to connect into my intake manifold? But that nor the carb is stock so it’s all kinda questionable to me.


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

Here’s a video of the first startup with the new carb. Also notice my pcv like I mentioned. https://youtu.be/-8P-z1GaFS4


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

no it won't affect the vac readings having the pcv off. that's how mine is/was when I tested it. I was thinking you might have a huge air leak somewhere, which would explain the high idle speed, but it doesn't explain the fouled up plugs. but I would start with checking for air leaks on the induction. then I would check the cam/crank timing. then on to the ignition timing. might be worth doing a compression test too. you should see about 170-190psi on a standard engine. if it's a lot less than that, then it could be cam timing that's out


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

Okay good to know.
Yes I’ve wondered the same. I’ll get some carb cleaner and check it out.
I agree, something isn’t adding up.
Compression is at about 125 acrossed all 4.
Not the greatest but okay.
I recently replaced all the belts including the timing and timed it myself. Could be off but I put a lot of time trying to make sure it was correct. Thank you for the feedback. 


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

no problem. glad to (try) and help 125psi doesn't seem that much for a healthy 8v. unless it's an 8.5-1 compression ratio motor. another thing you should consider is fitting a submerged fuel pump in the tank. the standard 1.8 gti lift pump should work fine with a carb'd engine.


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

what dizzy are you running on that engine btw??? in the video it looks suspiciously like a later ecu advance type of dizzy.


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

Hmm. Well the engine does have around 100k miles. I’m not sure if it’s a 8.5-1 compression ratio motor, how do I check?
Are you sure that wouldn’t be too high of a psi? I had the stock Cis-e submerged pump and swapped it for the lower psi external pump.
What makes you think I should consider that? 
This is the dizzy, I can’t get to the numbers without turning it but as far as I know it has no vacuum advance port but it does have a little power connector










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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

that is defo an efi dizzy. looks like an efi bottom end too, as I don't recall the carb'd models having an oil temp switch. basically you have no ignition advance with that dizzy. your engine code is straight up from the oil filter housing ( just below the head gasket):thumbup:


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

oh and a submerged fuel pump runs cooler and is less stressed, so tends to last longer:thumbup:


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

I could be wrong, but that connector at the bottom of your last pic looks very much like a knock sensor plug:sly:


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

Nah that’s for my radiator fan. Got it unplugged cause it was kicking on while the engine was cold.
Although I’m pretty sure this engine does have a knock sensor, and I don’t think it’s hooked up. Wouldn’t I need a ecu?


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## dviking mk2 (Mar 3, 2016)

NoviceMk2Mech said:


> Nah that’s for my radiator fan. Got it unplugged cause it was kicking on while the engine was cold.
> Although I’m pretty sure this engine does have a knock sensor, and I don’t think it’s hooked up. Wouldn’t I need a ecu?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I don't have enough time to fully chime in, but you need to simplify a few things (w/ your wiring) to get your ECU and or knock sensor out of the equation. I'll look at my points distributor and it's part # it will simplify everything, in a good way.

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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

i'm starting to think you have a fuel injection car that's been converted to run a carb. did you find the engine code yet?


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

dviking mk2 said:


> I don't have enough time to fully chime in, but you need to simplify a few things (w/ your wiring) to get your ECU and or knock sensor out of the equation. I'll look at my points distributor and it's part # it will simplify everything, in a good way.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T230NU using Tapatalk


That would be awesome I’d appreciate that. I don’t even have an ecu under my scuttle tray. The car originally had cis-e. And the PO must have removed the Ecu. But I do believe I have a knock sensor unconnected or something. I’ll check it out when I’m back home


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

garryt said:


> i'm starting to think you have a fuel injection car that's been converted to run a carb. did you find the engine code yet?


The car was originally Cis-e. I pulled all that cause it wasn’t functioning. And since than it got a engine swap. I’ll have to run the code to see exactly what but it was another 1.8 8v. I believe the newer engine ran on digi 1? I’ll check.
So yes this was originally fuel delivery and I replaced it with a Weber 32/36. Sorry I didn’t give you all the backstory.


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

well you never know. if you fit the right dizzy, it could be fine. that low vacuum reading is a worry though. but try the right dizzy and time it up first. one thing at a time eh:thumbup:


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

oh and I don't think the early cis had an ecu. not sure about the knock sensor equipped version though


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

Yes that’s true. I’m pretty sure I have a vacuum advance dizzy laying about somewhere. I’ll have to check the vacuum on the new carb as that reading was with the old one.
Should I test it at idle speed?
Yes That’s true, I believe it still may be worth it to go down a size or two in jets. Thank you for you’re feedback. 


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

I’m not positive the original engine that came with the vehicle had a knock sensor either. But the current engine in there does.


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

well if the knock sensor is only attached to the engine with no sign of a plug in the loom to connect it to, that's defo a bonus. yeah check the vacuum at idle and make sure the gauge is connected to a port after the throttle plate. you should be seeing about 20 give or take a few. don't forget to check the mechanical advance in the dizzy is moving freely before you fit it:thumbup:


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## dviking mk2 (Mar 3, 2016)

I had some time to collect my thoughts and think about cooler things like carb swapping Vw.'s.
There's some misinformation here so there's a few things I'd like to run through, bear w/ me..
I with the help of a very experienced Vw/Audi/Porsche mechanic carbed two 8vs over the years, one was a solid lifter Mk1 Rabbit, the last was my beloved 85 mk2 originally equipped w/ CIS-E.
Long story short after 200k+ miles the coil power wire shorted and wrecked my electrical system/ ECU etc. Carbing it was the only way to save it.
This is what I remember doing with him the last time.
-Found a Mk1 points distributor and wired that to an Early coil, then straight to a switched power wire to the ignition switch. Pertronix sells a good equivalent I hear.
-Ran a fused power wire to the same yellow? wire at the ign. switch, so once ign. power turns on it will tell the choke to activate (on a cold start).
-Ran an in-line Fuel pump (similar to yours) from the Intank transfer pump which bypassed the main F/P. Hooked this to have switched power off a toggle switch, (ran a 20 amp fuse from the Fuel pump relay as a power source. (Downside is remembering to turn on the pump before starting/ turning it off when you shut it down) I believe we left the breather hose as is.
-As far as vacuum I believe I ran the large booster hose to the intake manifold, and a small vacuum line from the distributor to the carb. Sorry but it's been a while.
Really that's about it. One question, do you have the Redline manifold? I got that kit and the casting on that manifold wouldn't seat against the back of the head without hitting the exhaust manifold causing a terrible vac leak. It's worth a check to make sure that's not the case for you. Doing it this way should get you running fine, as long as your motor is healthy. Wasn't able to track down the exact distributor part#, I think I sold the dist. I had with the carb setup.
Hope this clears a couple things up for you. 


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

garryt said:


> well if the knock sensor is only attached to the engine with no sign of a plug in the loom to connect it to, that's defo a bonus. yeah check the vacuum at idle and make sure the gauge is connected to a port after the throttle plate. you should be seeing about 20 give or take a few. don't forget to check the mechanical advance in the dizzy is moving freely before you fit it:thumbup:


Yes I’m pretty sure there’s nowhere to connect. Okay I’ll try this, maybe that was my issue? I had it connected to my Vac Adv port on the old carb when I tried.
Will do! Thank you for the feedback! Hope to have her running soon.
Also I found out it’s a 10:1 compression motor. 
Turns out I’ve known since 2017








Also some other fun facts in there like the current engine is from a 93 with digi 2.


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

dviking mk2 said:


> I had some time to collect my thoughts and think about cooler things like carb swapping Vw.'s.
> There's some misinformation here so there's a few things I'd like to run through, bear w/ me..
> I with the help of a very experienced Vw/Audi/Porsche mechanic carbed two 8vs over the years, one was a solid lifter Mk1 Rabbit, the last was my beloved 85 mk2 originally equipped w/ CIS-E.
> Long story short after 200k+ miles the coil power wire shorted and wrecked my electrical system/ ECU etc. Carbing it was the only way to save it.
> ...


Thank you for getting back to me Dvikingmk2.
I will checkout Pertronix. They sell an equivalent coil?
That’s probably more efficient but my Electric choke is connected to the back of an “open” fuse spot. #19 to be exact.

Here’s some photos of where my in-tank pump used to be looks like.








I found a thread of a fellow doing the same build. Got this idea from him. That’s actually his picture. 
Basically removed the pump and the wires for it but left the float wires. Fuel level works still. Plugged the nipple up top for the feed to engine, and used the return nipple as the feed with hose going into tank.
Currently my in-line pump is wired to where the external stock pump would’ve been. I’m not sure it’s exact term. (Has big plastic housing, under pass. Rear seat) 
With a half of a key turn I hear it grumble. Than I can hear it running while the engines running. I’m pretty sure it’s doing the job. Although I do not have a return line connected. I’m assuming that’s what you were saying by breather hose?

Currently have the booster line connected to the intake like you said but no Vac Adv. dizzy I have the port plugged on my carb though.

No worries I appreciate any help at this point. Car hasn’t moved in a bit.

I’m not sure if it’s the redline manifold. I haven’t seen any branding on it. It has ports for the cold start warm up though but I don’t have them connected. And I’m pretty sure there’s a gap between the two manifolds but I will check. 
I have aftermarket headers so I think that’s also why it may clear. 

No worries on the part # I’ll have to hunt one down. I appreciate it! Good to hear that someone else has got this setup to run well


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

On my checklist next time I feel like investing more time and money in this car. Which will most likely be very soon are these things. Let me know if there is a better order to do them in.

1. Check for Vacuum leaks
2. Check Cam/Crank Timing
3. Install a Points distributor?

And you do you think I should try to go down in jet sizes? I have a jet kit but it doesn’t come with all the small sizes I may need.


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

any order is good:thumbup: that compression is looooow for a 10-1 motor though. the cam might be retarded by one tooth. I would try and stick with an electronic dizzy. early cis kind.


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## dviking mk2 (Mar 3, 2016)

NoviceMk2Mech said:


> On my checklist next time I feel like investing more time and money in this car. Which will most likely be very soon are these things. Let me know if there is a better order to do them in.
> 
> 1. Check for Vacuum leaks
> 2. Check Cam/Crank Timing
> ...


I'd also say that making sure your timing is set is the first step. I'm also curious how is your distriubutor/ ignition system wired in currently? There are ways to use a electric dist, yet if it were me I'd do the points style Bosch dist.. Pertronix sells both coils and dist., what I was saying is I'd find a known good Mk1 dist, and the matching Bosch coil. I searched for quite a while and found a NOS dist. The coils are still available and relatively cheap (last time I checked). 
The reason for switching to this ignition is to be rid of your Hall sender/ and any other pesky fuel injection functions you don't need. I ran Mk1 plug wires as well!
Your fueling should be fine the way you have it run. You may want to start with the standard jet to get it running. Never ended up going any bigger myself.
While I remember your PCV breather can be changed to a small K&N cone filter that will act as a breather for the head. Depending on the style of valve cover you have, you may be able to clamp one right to your valve cover.
Good luck!
P.S.- If I find the folder of receipts I have from the 85 it should have all the part #s. I'll post them here unless someone here can find them first. :wink:


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

the hall sender dizzy is maintenance free, but of course, they call fail without warning. that's one thing the points has in it's favour:thumbup:


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

dviking mk2 said:


> I'd also say that making sure your timing is set is the first step. I'm also curious how is your distriubutor/ ignition system wired in currently? There are ways to use a electric dist, yet if it were me I'd do the points style Bosch dist.. Pertronix sells both coils and dist., what I was saying is I'd find a known good Mk1 dist, and the matching Bosch coil. I searched for quite a while and found a NOS dist. The coils are still available and relatively cheap (last time I checked).
> The reason for switching to this ignition is to be rid of your Hall sender/ and any other pesky fuel injection functions you don't need. I ran Mk1 plug wires as well!
> Your fueling should be fine the way you have it run. You may want to start with the standard jet to get it running. Never ended up going any bigger myself.
> While I remember your PCV breather can be changed to a small K&N cone filter that will act as a breather for the head. Depending on the style of valve cover you have, you may be able to clamp one right to your valve cover.
> ...


Okay, today I took a look at my timing, I removed my upper cover and plug#1 and turned the crank by hand. Got the piston to the top and checked the mark. I believe I have the cam mark in the correct spot. Here’s a photo of the mark, also notice how there is no marking in my bell housing. Shouldn’t there be?








I’ll have to describe my ign/dizzy setup another day cause I ran out of daylight. Also I looked at my original engine that was in the car. And the dizzy was removed, couldn’t find it anywhere so I’m pretty sure that the one that’s installed on my engine in my car now is the original Cis-e dizzy.

Okay good to know. I’ll have to look into it.
Yeah I had a cheapo spectre air filter on there at one point. But now I have a mishimoto catch can hooked up but I don’t think it’s helped at all. Mostly because I don’t have it ported into my intake like it should.
Thank you! I appreciate it.


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

Ps: this is the only other dizzy I have on hand. This was the original I’m pretty sure unless the PO swapped it.
(Old pic, from when original engine blew)


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

Also this may be important as well. This is where my dizzy currently points with the engine at TDC.


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

you need to turn the crank to get the flywheel mark in view. then set the cam to it. if the cam is retarded, turning the crank slightly should show the flywheel mark. unless the dowels are missing off the flywheel and it was fitted wrong:sly: there should be a mark on the crank pulley/timing belt cover though for confirmation. try that dizzy of the old engine. might just do the trick if it's a basic cis ignition:thumbup:


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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

So I got around to checking the timing and swapping the dizzy. 
I first aligned the mark on my flywheel, than I looked to see if the other marks lined up. Couldn’t see the mark on the crank pointing straight up, cam didn’t line up with VC. 
So I than cranked it by hand till the cranks mark was straight up and down, and lined up with the intermediate, And the cam lined up with the valve cover.
At this point my #1 piston is at the very top, cam is lined up, crank is lined up. But there are 0 marks showing on the flywheel.
I was almost tempted to paint a mark and call that TDC. Am I doing this correct or? I’m not sure why nothing lines up when the marks are lined up on the flywheel?



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## NoviceMk2Mech (May 3, 2017)

Buttoned everything up the morning after. And connected the vacuum advance to my carb. Everything was lined up besides the flywheel at that point like I stated in previous post.
Here’s a few pictures of the dizzy after install and a video of start up.









Also I checked my float measurement, needle and seat travel and I saw this in my bowl. It did move when I blew on it so it’s not just a stain on the metal. Top right of the bowl 










I also checked my fuel pressure with a gauge. The first time I turned the key and activated the pump I had 2lbs, I did it a couple more times and it went up to 3 and than a little higher. 
I’m not sure if I’m doing that right, but I’m assuming that it’s normal that the pressure raises because it’s not going anywhere.


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

you will need to find the notch on your crank pulley and the arrow on the lower timing belt cover, and get them lined up first. and then check where your cam and rotor arm marks are. and also, make sure your cam pulley is on the right way round, as that has caught out a few people when it comes to lining things up:thumbup:


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