# Porsche 986 on a TT 1.8T Quattro (Yes, has been done but need to some help getting blanks filled)



## emotovilov (Aug 29, 2012)

I got all 4 calipers off a 986 (non S) for a steal. The question is rears, whose done it and were should I go looking for parts for the build. Will upload pics as soon as jack the car up and start tearing the old calipers off but would like to know what to expect and be ready for when it comes to the rears. From what I heard, Ill need to figure out a new parking brake system? Not exactly sure how to tackle the rears, but would like to get pointers from those who have done it.

To clarify what I know,
1) Ill be fine by getting rotors that fit the TT (Thinking about getting rotors x-drilled and slotted from adamsrotors.com, Ill get pads from just about anywhere online for the calipers..
2) Ill need these parts for the calipers
Caliper connecting lines, will need x2 left and x2 Right (for front and rears)
Bleeder Valves 
Brake lines 
Any other things Ill need from Pelican before I place an order.
3) Adapters
I see people on eBay selling adapters, and PureMS, but thats all good for the fronts, but what about rears...

I dont want to waste anytime with this build and been looking for advice and help but the rears are killing me:banghead:. Would appreciate any help, and Ill have pics when I get started. Would be nice to make nice shopping list with parts(#s) and where to go them. I apologize if this has been answered else where, just kindly point me to the right direction...


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Porsche lines won't work. For the fronts, you can use the OEM Audi lines if you have the correct banjo bolt, which ECS sells but I can never find on their site (call them). They were too long for my 996C4S calipers but I milled them down to the correct length. As for the rears, there are no off the shelf ready made adapters, so you're looking at having some made more than likely. Also, make sure you have the front calipers oriented correctly with bleed nipples up/crossover tubes underneath and the smaller diameter piston contacting the leading edge of the disc, not the trailing edge, or you'll get poor pad wear. Good luck.


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## ModsTTand (Jul 8, 2009)

20v master said:


> Porsche lines won't work. For the fronts, you can use the OEM Audi lines if you have the correct banjo bolt, which ECS sells but I can never find on their site (call them). They were too long for my 996C4S calipers but I milled them down to the correct length. As for the rears, there are no off the shelf ready made adapters, so you're looking at having some made more than likely. Also, make sure you have the front calipers oriented correctly with bleed nipples up/crossover tubes underneath and the smaller diameter piston contacting the leading edge of the disc, not the trailing edge, or you'll get poor pad wear. Good luck.


thank you for the heads up i was searching for this for long time. @20v master


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## Kacz07 (Mar 4, 2012)

Sell them and get r32 brakes. They're just as good. Supercar stopping power on the r32, even better on something lighter.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

From almost 4 (!) years ago: Boxster brake upgrade :thumbup:


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## Late__Apex (Dec 2, 2007)

Kacz07 said:


> Sell them and get r32 brakes. They're just as good. Supercar stopping power on the r32, even better on something lighter.


 Not really. 2-piston (r32) vs 4-piston (Porsche), more difficult pad change, floating calipers (flex) and tugboat-anchor rotor weight.


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## Kacz07 (Mar 4, 2012)

Late__Apex said:


> Not really. 2-piston (r32) vs 4-piston (Porsche), more difficult pad change, floating calipers (flex) and tugboat-anchor rotor weight.


 *Uh, yeah really. 
* 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...s.-MKV-R32&p=78558929&viewfull=1#post78558929 

Originally Posted by Dubguy21 
Per our forum and motor trend 

04 R32 60-0 108 feet motor trend 
08 R32 60-0 111 feet motor trend 
12 goRf 60-0 128 feet motor trend 

Let the argument about the 4 banger weight difference begin! I hate hearing that, but even with the concrete evidence here, the goRf is still almost identical in weight to the 04, with the 08 being a pig. At any rate the 04 should out brake the other two, even though it has smaller rotors. 
During that time it was basically in exotic car territory. Taken from Motortrend also: 

2003 Ferrari Enzo 60-0 106 feet : 15" inch front and back 
2005 Ford GT 60-0 110 feet : 14" inch front 13.2 back 
2004 Porsche Carrera GT 60-0 101 feet: 15" front and back 

*Not too many cars get under 100 feet. How easy would it be to get the 04 R under 100 ? Here are 22 cars that are under 100 feet if anyone is interested. 

http://www.motortrend.com/features/m...t/viewall.html 

*To fix the flex, $50: 
* 
http://www.germanautoparts.com/productdisplay/82036 

*Weight is heavier, but more pistons does not necessarily mean better stopping. MAYBE better heat dissipation, but stopping distance is negligible (to a point, depending on track use). Brake fade is also dependent on fluids, pads, etc., so that isn't even necessarily an upgrade, relative to the pistons. For normal driving, you'll have none of these issues. Track will require peripheral upgrades. All you get, for certain, is better wheel options and fitment. Just don't go lower than 17s.*


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## chadd! (Apr 16, 2012)

@ 20v master
So the bigger pistons are oriented towards the ground and the smaller up top?


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

chadd! said:


> @ 20v master
> So the bigger pistons are oriented towards the ground and the smaller up top?


If the calipers are on the leading edge of the rotor, ie towards the front side of the car, yes, so on VW/TT's they'd be in this orientation. If they are trailing, ie on the rear side of the car, the smaller piston would be towards the ground, ie OEM Porsche setups.


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

I've done several BB conversions on various cars ( Camaro's, Audi's, Nissans ) using WilWood, Bremo and AP calipers. On a street car it is best to leave the stock floating caliper in place. Just too many problems with designing the parking brake assembly. 

The rears brakes do not do enough braking to warrant a full on 4 piston caliper design. If you do track days, upgrade the rear pad material ( along with the fronts of course ) and that should take care of the rear braking. Upgrading the rear brake calipers seldom results in any improvement in braking performance on a street car. It's often more trouble than it's worth. From my experiences you'd be better off leaving the stock rear Calipers in place unless you do a LOT of Track Days. 

Only time you may want to upgrade the rear brakes is if you make a substantial increase in front rotor diameter. Then you may have to increase the rear rotor size to balance things out.

Note: Given the same Pad compound, braking force is affected only by rotor size and piston area. A larger pad does not increase braking force. It will however last longer.


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

For the front lines you can easily build your own SS brake line setup using off the shelf parts from Russell. Far cheaper than the " Custom brake line kits " supplied by typical Euro Parts venders.

These are what I used on my Audi A4 986 Brembo SS line conversion ( front ).

All Russell parts:

Russell 656042 18" -3 AN Female/Female SS line ( 2 required ) Note: Check length. 18" is usually good, but you may require shorter or longer hoses for your TT than on my A4. 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-656042

Russell 640411 Brake adapter Steel, -3 AN to 10mm x 1.0 Female/Male ( 1 kit required )

http://www.summitracing.com/search?keyword=640411&dds=1

Russell 640431 Adapter Steel Male -3AN to Male 10mm X 1.0 Thread ( 1 kit required )

http://www.summitracing.com/search?keyword=640431&dds=1


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

To OP. Stay away from the X-Drilling if you plan on doing any Track Days. They will crack from thermal stress. Even Autocrossing can crack aftermarket X-Drilled rotors. The slotting is fine and will suffice.

Note: Before some starts in with the Typical... " but Porsche, Ferrari, Lambo, etc rotors are drilled, blah, blah, blah " 

Yeah...you're talking about steel rotors *purpose built* with high grade racing alloys, cast in holes from the foundry, special stress relief and costing from $500 to $750 each. They are NOT made of the same materials as your typical aftermarket rotors. Not knocking Adams- Rotors at all... but there is a lot more to designing a proper X-Drilled rotor than just drilling it. 

Bottom line. Track Days or Solo 1 will crack the majority of your X-Drilled aftermarket rotors.


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

$21.75 for a pair Bleeder valves from Pelican Parts? That's a bit pricey. Pelican parts is one of the more expensive places to buy parts in my findings.

Pelican Bleeder Valves 

You can get those bleeder valves from almost any jobber for no more than $3 to $5 each. There is nothing special about them...except if you like paying more money to have " Genuine Porsche " bleeders.

Without even looking too hard I found a pair of OEM Porsche bleeders for $15.42 a pair.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Porsche-20...onvertible-H6_2.7L/Braking/Caliper/ES1428611/


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Mbt makes a couple kits for the rear 
Good luck with the price 


http://www.mbt-engineering.com/ha_996C.html


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

01ttgt28 said:


> Mbt makes a couple kits for the rear
> Good luck with the price
> 
> 
> http://www.mbt-engineering.com/ha_996C.html


Your better of with this kit easy on the pockets :thumbup:

http://www.mbt-engineering.com/ha_rs4b5.html


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Oh yeah I got my brake lines from usp I think he charged me $60


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## Julian537 (Jul 18, 2012)

I am about to do this conversion. the boxster calipers had some inserts attached to the pads, that are little cylinders that fit into the pistons. Do these need to be reused with the new pads? My new pads are EBC reds and they do not have these things attached to them.


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

Julian537 said:


> I am about to do this conversion. the boxster calipers had some inserts attached to the pads, that are little cylinders that fit into the pistons. Do these need to be reused with the new pads? My new pads are EBC reds and they do not have these things attached to them.


 Those are just locating inserts ( Probably for anti-squeal ). Not really required. Some pads have them, some don't. No big deal.


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## Dowski12 (Nov 2, 2011)

20v master said:


> Porsche lines won't work. For the fronts, you can use the OEM Audi lines if you have the correct banjo bolt, which ECS sells but I can never find on their site (call them). They were too long for my 996C4S calipers but I milled them down to the correct length. As for the rears, there are no off the shelf ready made adapters, so you're looking at having some made more than likely. Also, make sure you have the front calipers oriented correctly with bleed nipples up/crossover tubes underneath and the smaller diameter piston contacting the leading edge of the disc, not the trailing edge, or you'll get poor pad wear. Good luck.


 ECS will not sell you the banjo bolts separate unless you own their BBK. I had to jump through a mess load of hoops to try and purchase the banjo bolts that would work with my 996 calipers, just to be told they wont sell them separately. I ended up going with the PureMS front brake lines since they come with the appropriate banjos, no jumping through hoops, just paid money and got what I was looking for :thumbup:


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

Dowski12 said:


> ECS will not sell you the banjo bolts separate unless you own their BBK. I had to jump through a mess load of hoops to try and purchase the banjo bolts that would work with my 996 calipers, just to be told they wont sell them separately. I ended up going with the PureMS front brake lines since they come with the appropriate banjos, no jumping through hoops, just paid money and got what I was looking for :thumbup:


 Banjo bolts are easy if you know the size ( 10mm x 1.0 ). Napa, Autozone or any other decent aftermarket supplier can get them from a brake hardware supplier such as Dorman, Wagner Bendix to name just a few. Nothing special about " Porsche " banjo bolts...unless you like paying a lot of extra money for the name. Generic brands work just fine. 

I also supplied all the necessary Part numbers to purchase Russel fittings with Female/Female hose ends and the correct adapters to mate with the calipers. ( Post #11 ) 

Russel, Aeroquip, Goodridge and Earls also all supply the correct Banjo bolts if you want to use Banjo Hose ends on the caliper side.


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## trixx (Dec 23, 2002)

Kacz07 said:


> *Uh, yeah really.
> *
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...s.-MKV-R32&p=78558929&viewfull=1#post78558929
> 
> ...


 i :heart: my .:R brakes... it was a huge upgrade not to mention I also upgraded the rears from 9" solid to 10" vented from the R32/TT 3.2 

best mod i've done to my TT :thumbup:


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## Kacz07 (Mar 4, 2012)

trixx said:


> i :heart: my .:R brakes... it was a huge upgrade not to mention I also upgraded the rears from 9" solid to 10" vented from the R32/TT 3.2
> 
> best mod i've done to my TT :thumbup:


 So you can use the r32 rotors on our rear OEM brakes?


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## trixx (Dec 23, 2002)

Kacz07 said:


> So you can use the r32 rotors on our rear OEM brakes?


 the R32 rear setup is the same as what stock 225s come with (10" vented).. 

My TT is a 180 which only came with 9" solid disk rears 

i swaped the entire front and rear brakes from an r32.. so i went from 12" single piston front to 13" 2 pot and 9" solid rear to 10" vented. 

everything was essentially direct bolt on and made a HUGE difference in braking  

that said, those front rotors are heavy as hell and you notice the additional rotational and unsprung weight right away.


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## Kacz07 (Mar 4, 2012)

trixx said:


> the R32 rear setup is the same as what stock 225s come with (10" vented)..
> 
> My TT is a 180 which only came with 9" solid disk rears
> 
> ...


 Yeah, my girl's 3.2 stopped on a dime, despite the extra weight, compared to my 225. I picked up a 2bennett Porsche bbk kit and those calipers and 2 pc rotors are much lighter than the R32s. I would only switch to the 2B kit at this point for weight savings and better heat dissipation.


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