# Unable to remove the oil drain plug. It loosens but still spins.



## gbongivw (Feb 27, 2006)

Hi, 
a couple of weeks ago I changed my oil as I always have for the last 8 years.
This time however, when I was turning the bolt counter-clockwise it turned about 6 full turns to the left and then it starts spining no longer turning its way out of the oil pan drain plug hole.

No oil leaks or anything. So I tightened it back up and it tighens fine but when loosening to remove it stops at a certain part of the plug and just spins to the left. So I tighneed back up and removed the filter and let as much drain from the oil filter housing. I then put on a new filter and had to add about 2.5 quarts of oil.

So I am trying to figure out what I need to do before the next change to rectify this problem. 

Here are some options I was thinking:
- Try to find a way to start pumping the oil out for oil changes
- Drop the oil pan try to see what the problem is.
- Replace pan and plug.


Any help would be greatly appreciated. I did a search here on the forums and cold not come up with anything other then either the threads might be bad or the bung could be spinning but nothing pertaining to my exact problem (unless I missed something)

g


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## piston (Oct 17, 2008)

Usually the pan is harder material than the bolt so the bolt is most likely the item stripped.

Try loosening the bolt until it starts spinning then wedge a flathead screwdriver between the bolt and pan to put some force on the bolt to come out. Then try turning the bolt and see if it catches a good thread and comes out.

*You might want to ge a new bolt before you do this so you are prepared to replace it.


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## gbongivw (Feb 27, 2006)

I will put that on the list to try thanks. Funny the parts guy at vw said the bolt was steel and the pan aluminium and that the pas threads were bad.
Thanks again


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## harmankardon35 (Sep 16, 2009)

once you get the old bolt out, check the threads to see if its the pan or bolt that's stripped. Make sure you can install it and tighten it before you add new oil (so you don't end up having to dump it all out again)


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## gbongivw (Feb 27, 2006)

IS there a way I can pump the oil out form somewhere else? Dipstick hole? filter hole?
I dunno


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## jmj (Feb 6, 2001)

You could get an oil extractor and pump it out through the dipstick tube.

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/car+maintenance/oil+changes/multi+fluid+extractor.do


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## saaber2 (Jul 15, 2008)

You can pump it out of the dipstick tube (use clear plastic tubing from hardware store, 1/4" to 3.8" or so). Various pumps available for this from el cheapo at about $6 at autozone etc. (get the kind that looks like the top to a hand soap dispenser, not the plunger (grease gun looking) type) to fancy affairs such as mighty mac, etc. 

If you would be willing, could you take a couple milk jugs and put 1 quart (or 1/2 qt.) lines on it with a sharpie? Then pump it out. I'm curious how much you can get out via the dipstick tube. Ideally you could drain the oil filter housing into the milk jug also. That will give you a look at how much you are able to get out.

I am surprised how much oil remains after an oil change from the bottom. From UOAs, it looks like around 15% of the oil is left over. I wouldn't have thought it would be that high. Perhaps the pump will be able to get more out? Who knows until we measure it? Would have to probably move the tube around to make sure you get it all I would assume.

ha ha! I see jmj beat me too it!


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## gbongivw (Feb 27, 2006)

Hey thanks a lot. that looks pretty neat. I may actually pick it up and leave the damn pan alone for now.
Shoot I could really use that tool for a fe wother applications.

HAve you ever use done?


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## jmj (Feb 6, 2001)

I've never used one, but I have thought about it from time to time.


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## harmankardon35 (Sep 16, 2009)

if the bolt is stripped there's a good chance it will leak/fall out after several heat cycles


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## jmj (Feb 6, 2001)

Isn't that why God invented JB Weld?


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## EuroSportChicago (Jun 9, 2010)

jmj said:


> You could get an oil extractor and pump it out through the dipstick tube.
> 
> http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/car+maintenance/oil+changes/multi+fluid+extractor.do


Not a good idea

If this was the way an oil change was meant to be performed, The engineers would have just made a solid pan with no drain plug and just had everything drained out of the top. 

x2 for the plug falling out after heat cycles

x2 for wedging the screwdriver as you are spinning it so it can catch thread again. Then replace the plug and pour some oil in it to make sure that it is not leaking


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## jmj (Feb 6, 2001)

EuroSportChicago said:


> Not a good idea
> 
> If this was the way an oil change was meant to be performed, The engineers would have just made a solid pan with no drain plug and just had everything drained out of the top.


Men shouldn't fly in airplanes either, because God didn't give us wings.


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## harmankardon35 (Sep 16, 2009)

:facepalm: we evolved


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## gbongivw (Feb 27, 2006)

EuroSportChicago said:


> Not a good idea
> 
> If this was the way an oil change was meant to be performed, The engineers would have just made a solid pan with no drain plug and just had everything drained out of the top.
> 
> ...


I will try to fix the issue at next oil change.
Thanks for the replies folks.


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## jmj (Feb 6, 2001)

harmankardon35 said:


> :facepalm: we evolved


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## Ronburgendy (Oct 23, 2008)

Start bagging the sh*t out of it. 

Just change the filter once and a while

Add oil as needed

Motors are cheep these days

:thumbup:


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## EuroSportChicago (Jun 9, 2010)

Ronburgendy said:


> Start bagging the sh*t out of it.
> 
> Just change the filter once and a while
> 
> ...




Replace is the new repair after all:beer:


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## dubbinmk2 (Jan 15, 2008)

do it right or don't do it at all... replace the oil pan with a new one from GAP


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## AudiJunkie (Jun 19, 2009)

You can get these bolts out by prying it out as you turn it to get the threads to catch. Get a flat screwdriver under it and turn with a wrench. What happens is the threads get stripped at the top of the bolt where they are tapered, unlike a normal bolt where the threads run right to the top. This is a design feature to protect the pan from overtightening.

Once you get it out, replace it yeah, but you can also stack an extra washer on to move the bolt out beyond the damaged threads of the pan.


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## gbongivw (Feb 27, 2006)

Thanks alot for the input.
Out of curiosity what makes you think it is the bolt and not the pan.
I have to be honest it will be some time before I fix this. I will keep you posted.
I am doing ball joints, axles and shocks on my s10 this weekend....... and maybe the next....it all depends.

thanks
g


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## EuroSportChicago (Jun 9, 2010)

gbongivw said:


> Thanks alot for the input.
> Out of curiosity what makes you think it is the bolt and not the pan.
> I have to be honest it will be some time before I fix this. I will keep you posted.
> I am doing ball joints, axles and shocks on my s10 this weekend....... and maybe the next....it all depends.
> ...




IF you have a tap and die set, you can re-thread the pan, it will be good as new as long as its the proper drain plug size


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## piston (Oct 17, 2008)

gbongivw said:


> Thanks alot for the input.
> Out of curiosity what makes you think it is the bolt and not the pan.
> I have to be honest it will be some time before I fix this. I will keep you posted.
> I am doing ball joints, axles and shocks on my s10 this weekend....... and maybe the next....it all depends.
> ...


I've read many times that car manufacturers make the bolt material softer than the pan because they know this can happen more times than not because most people do not use a torque wrench to tighten to spec. Most will over tighten because they think it's not tight enough.
So, the bolt threads will give before the pan threads.


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## THERAT (Mar 31, 2003)

*...Pella 6000*

... yep I use the Pella 6000 to extract oil through the dip stick. Since I'm driving a 2003 Jetta TDI the oil filter is top mounted as well and handy to get at. No need to get under the car. Don't have a lift or ramps so the Pella is the easiest for me. I put the old oil back into the used oil container and recycle. Using Fuchs GTI ...


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## ccmnova (Aug 23, 2009)

THERAT said:


> ... yep I use the Pella 6000 to extract oil through the dip stick. Since I'm driving a 2003 Jetta TDI the oil filter is top mounted as well and handy to get at. No need to get under the car. Don't have a lift or ramps so the Pella is the easiest for me. I put the old oil back into the used oil container and recycle. Using Fuchs GTI ...


I use the mity vac on all cars as done at the Mercedes dealer and I originally tried out on my C280. No jacking, no ramps, no shroud to remove - it's the best way to change oil. My Jetta 2.0T has a top filter so oil change is a snap. The easier it is to do, the more often you'll do it.


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