# aba 20 valve



## veedubfosho (May 2, 2003)

hey i might be able to get my hand on a 20 valve head and the turbo. does anyone know anyone in la that knows how to do this swap.


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## 1.8Tcorado (Oct 4, 2001)

*Re: aba 20 valve (veedubfosho)*

I can do that swap, is it an OBDI ABA? if it is you are going to have one very nice motor!


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## lintmann (Aug 8, 2003)

sorry to jump in but what does OBDI ABA stand for????


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## rettahdam528 (Nov 18, 2002)

*Re: (lintmann)*

obdi1 aba would be the early aba blocks from 95 and before lintman. they had forged cranks and rods as opposed to later blocks which have cast cranks


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## KNivES (Aug 7, 2003)

*Re: (rettahdam528)*

The head bolts on directly to the ABA? 
NO nothing? Just bam!?
sweet deal...


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## chris24g (Jan 12, 2000)

*Re: (rettahdam528)*

Do the forged blocks/cranks have different part numbers? or any other way to tell if you have a forged crank?


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## Andrew Stauffer (Oct 2, 2000)

*Re: (chris24g)*

The head just bolts right up, but she won't run like that. The middle intake valve is rumored to hit the stock ABA piston, so the stock pistons need a relief cut at a minimum. Most go for JE or Ross pistons to fix this. The 20v head needs 3 oil galleys plugged, easy enough with pipe plugs. And you need a timing belt you won't find on any stock VWs, contitech part # CT 879 (158 teeth) is rumored to work. 
Nate Romero is making 225 wheel hp with his although it's a dedicated race motor. Not alternator, water pump, 'Autronic management, Schrick solid lifter conversion and cams, etc. Show's the potential, however. Oh, and that's ALL MOTOR, not boosted......


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## chris24g (Jan 12, 2000)

*Re: (Andrew Stauffer)*

all motor? I'm impressed. Subtract 15hp for the accessories and maybe 20 for the valvetrain (stock setup), and you're still in the high 180-190 at the wheels. Sounds like a Type R killer to me!


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## Andrew Stauffer (Oct 2, 2000)

*Re: (chris24g)*

Beyond a doubt. A well developed 2.0 8v will give a bone stock Type R a good run for the money, ask me how I know. But yes, all motor 20/20 in an 1800lb chassis would kill most cars on the road. 
Nate's Corrado is under 1600lbs at this point, IIRC, and he's running low 11s, all motor. Truly amazing stuff.


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## chris24g (Jan 12, 2000)

*Re: (Andrew Stauffer)*

Someone 'splain to me why a normally aspirated 20v head makes so much power. People have to drop some serious money to reach 200hp with a 16v head. 


_Modified by chris24g at 11:22 PM 8-21-2003_


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## The Prof (Jul 18, 2002)

For example the Ford 1800 Zetec and the VW Golf 1800 16 valve engine are the same capacity and have identical valve sizes. Both have twin overhead cams acting directly on buckets and similar bore and stroke sizes. An initial view might be that, baring any major problem with port shape and size, that both engines would have similar power potential when fully modified. The Ford though only has 28mm lifters and the VW has 35mm ones. This allows the VW to run much more radical cam profiles and achieve more "flow area" from its valve lift curve. Copyright David Baker and Puma Race Engines 
By contrast the VW 5 valve per cylinder engine has plenty of inlet valve area from its 3 inlet valves per cylinder but space constraints mean the lifters are only 24mm diameter. This limits the design of the cam profile so badly that the power potential of the engine is reduced below that of the much simpler 4 valve per cylinder design. In effect, this engine ended up as nothing more than a very complex and expensive marketing exercise. 
http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/pp02.htm


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## The Prof (Jul 18, 2002)

someone should tell nate [







]


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## lilbustaa (Jul 30, 2003)

*Re: (The Prof)*

is there any benifit to using the 20v vrs 16v, i have an audi 1.8t and a vw 2.0l that i am trying to decide what to do with.... 
i have a g60 corrado --- running and a
92 GTI, both would be great for an addition, but i am trying to figure out what is the best use of my time and money. 
how bout a 1.8t in the corrado and a g6016v2.0l ???


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## Andrew Stauffer (Oct 2, 2000)

*Re: (lilbustaa)*

It's pretty much a wash, 16v vs 20v. Bigger lifters on the 16v head allow bigger cams, although the additional valve on the 20v head should get you similar flow at lesser lifts, hence you wouldn't need cams as big as the 16v units to accomplish the same thing. 
Certain 20v head, AEB for example, flow as well from the factory as alot of ported and polished 16v heads. I've seen the #s to back this up over on VWSport a while ago, though I can't recall the specifics. At any rate, the power comes from moving more air and the 20v heads are good for it. That and with radical enough cams these motors can rev to 9000rpms. 
200whp won't come easy no matter how good the parts are. I know of two folks in this world that have done it, -the previously mentioned Nate Romero who has alot of developement/dyno time into his motor(as well as a Schrick solid lifter conversion and camset -$1500), and a fellow in England that has a 2.0/20v running on ITBs/programmable management that's making 207whp. IIRC, he has since gone to lesser cams to be more streetable and is making ~196whp. He paid a shop for the build and developement of his motor and the results are very very nice. 
As to other 2 liter 20v motors, Greg Freeman out in Cali was running a 16v turbo motor at 275whp. He swapped in a 20v head, claimed no other differences, and spun the rollers at 325whp. That's alot of boost in either case but represents the additional flow to the tune of 50 hp. 
And Greg also mentioned to me that they did a basic 20/20 swap to a buddies A1 by putting a stock 20v head on a stock 2.0 16v bottom end. Ran it on CIS injection, added a distributor to the motor, modified a TT 16v race header by welding a 20v flange onto it. So it was all stock parts, header excepted, and the thing put down 135whp. That's 150-155 crank hp with stock cams, stock head, CIS flapper plate in the way, etc. The car was rumored to be VERY torquey, which makes sense with those stock turbo friendly cams. Enough rambling, that's what I've put together in my head over the last two years of thinking about this. Lotsa potential......


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## nscirocco (Oct 4, 2000)

*Re: (Andrew Stauffer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Andrew Stauffer* »_... And you need a timing belt you won't find on any stock VWs, contitech part # CT 879 (158 teeth) is rumored to work. 


i have that belt, it's a bit too long .. 
others are using a 155T prelude belt


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## Andrew Stauffer (Oct 2, 2000)

*Re: (nscirocco)*

nscirocco, 
Which motor/Prelude take the 155 tooth belt?


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## nscirocco (Oct 4, 2000)

*Re: (Andrew Stauffer)*

99 Honda Prelude 2.2
the teeth aren't shaped the same, and the width is 24mm instead of 25.4 .. but it "fits"


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## Andrew Stauffer (Oct 2, 2000)

*Re: (nscirocco)*

Thanks Nigel. Great ABA swap page, btw http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif .


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## nscirocco (Oct 4, 2000)

*Re: (Andrew Stauffer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Andrew Stauffer* »_Thanks Nigel. Great ABA swap page, btw http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif . 

hehe, thanks .. haven't updated it in like 6 years ..
anyways, here's the 158T belt .. it's just a bit too long








i'll either use a second tensioner or a cam pulley on the intermediate shaft


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## DubG60 (Jan 18, 2001)

*Re: (nscirocco)*

Sweet...Two questions for you.
1) How much too long is that belt? (Im trying to fit one around a cam gear sized IM shaft)
2) Which Cam sprocket is that? Looks to be an AutoTech but they have been back ordered on the bolt for quite some time and I could really use one right about now. Thank you sir


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## nscirocco (Oct 4, 2000)

*Re: (DubG60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DubG60* »_
1) How much too long is that belt? (Im trying to fit one around a cam gear sized IM shaft)


maybe a tooth too long .. the way it is in the pic, the tensioner is maxed .. the belt tension is close to right, but i don't have intermediate shaft bearings in the block, so it's hard to tell
the belt is passing way too close to itself though!!
professorNate is using a cam gear on the IM shaft and is using a 159T belt

_Quote, originally posted by *DubG60* »_
2) Which Cam sprocket is that? Looks to be an AutoTech but they have been back ordered on the bolt for quite some time and I could really use one right about now. Thank you sir









it's the autotech .. but i bought it before they differentiated between 16v & 20v .. so i have the 16v bolt, which is about an inch too short


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