# Cracked upper oil pan filter housing!!!



## deuceakc (Jan 9, 2008)

Well i think im F***ed! i bought this car wrecked and got a good deal however i started disassembling the front end and noticed the oil filter housing was hanging so i look at it a little more and see the oil filter tube where it screws into the upper pan is carcked off!! so now i only have a few threads to be able to screw the oil filter housing on and i know its not enough to hold it from leaking! what should i do?!?!?! i have the piece thats broke odd and it still threads on the oil filter tube. someone pleas help!!!








i will have pics asap!!!!


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## JBallou (Jan 6, 2009)

Easier said than done. Replace what is broken. Get an upper pan and a filter housing, might be $$$$ from OEM, though some homework might be necc.
Or just go cheap and use JB weld. make sure it is clean enough to eat off of. Then sandwich those pieces together with the few threads holding it.


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## deuceakc (Jan 9, 2008)

JB weld???? are you serious??? do you think tig weld would be stronger?


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## Peter Badore (Jun 17, 2002)

*Re: (deuceakc)*

I also bought a wrecked s4 2.7l 6 speed with a broken upper oil pan. I bought a new upper oil 
pan from my local Audi --over $400.00. Not too to hard to install on a hoist but very time consuming to get clear access to the cylinder block so that the pan to block sealer would 
not be smeared while installing the pan. I bought the oem sealer from am aftermarket supplier and I would recommend a new tube of the "gray stuff". The turbocharger oil return lines enter the rear of the pan and use gaskets for sealing which you should buy as new. I lifted the engine and also lowered the front suspension crossmember to gain necessary working space. The oil pump drive chain stays connected to the crankshaft while the pan is off. I did not find a torque specification for the attaching screw but I think blue locktite should be used on the screw if you do not purchase a new one. The next time will take me much less time but if you do this repair on a garage floor you should lift the car as much as possible. I hope this helps a little.


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## deuceakc (Jan 9, 2008)

Thanx for the input, im just going to replace it, i found a couple diy's online and it seems like a bit of a chore but it must be done. Also looking for a used pan so if anyone has one up for sale lemme kno


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## GLS-S4 (Jun 6, 2005)

*Re: (deuceakc)*

Is the oil cooler threaded mount in the upper pan damaged or is it that the oil cooler threaded metal tube has snapped in upper pan?








With engine in vehicle, the engine subframe should be dropped to R&R the upper pan and best done with an engine brace or even an engine hoist. It is possible to rock the drivetrain in two steps on the subframe front and rear chassis connection points but it's tight and tricky... and you only have ~5 minutes to install the pan once the gasket material has been applied or you risk a leak. Be sure there is absolutely no oil present and mating surfaces are clean & dry or the gasket material will not stick inviting future leaks. IIRC 17 vertical bolts into block plus the few larger horizontal bolts into trans housing.


















_Modified by GLS-S4 at 6:17 PM 3-11-2009_


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## deuceakc (Jan 9, 2008)

the oil tube isnt broke at all its the threads on the upper pan where the oil tube screws into the pan is where my problem is, and there are only a few threads to be able to be threaded to, and im affraid if i try to crank it down its going to snap, ill post some pics asap.


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## deuceakc (Jan 9, 2008)

*Re: (deuceakc)*

here are some quick cell phone pics so you guys can see what im dealing with.


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (deuceakc)*

you can have someone weld it back on, but they better be damn good at welding alminum


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## deuceakc (Jan 9, 2008)

Thats what i was thinking, since i can thread the tube in the pan a couple threads to hold it tight while its welded. its worth a shot im thinking since the pan is fu**ed anyways it couldnt hurt.


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