# How to replace the J605 Trunk Lid Control Module [TOC, Photos done]



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

My Phaeton is equipped with the power opening and closing trunk lid (production code *4E7*). This is a nifty little option that raises and lowers the trunk lid hydraulically when the drivers presses the appropriate button on the car. My wife likes it, because she is kind of short and this makes it easier to close the trunk lid.
Anyway - this gadget stopped working a few weeks ago. It kind of died a slow death - at first, the power open and close function became intermittent but we could still operate the trunk lid manually, and eventually, the whole thing died, which meant that the electrically operated trunk latch would not engage when the trunk lid was closed. Although the lid stayed in the closed position, the annunciator light in the instrument panel was always on, indicating that the latch was not engaged.
I dropped by my VW dealer to ask for some help, and they did a diagnostic scan of my Phaeton. This returned a fault code stored in the J605 Trunk Lid Control Module, which is a slave controller to the J393 Central Control Module for the Comfort System (you can see the Phaeton convenience system network topology at this post: Convenience System Controllers). The fault code stored was "00317 - Rear Lid Control Module (J605) 014 - Defective", which was pretty definitive. So, the Phaeton technician at my VW dealer ordered a new control module. It showed up 3 days later, and he sent me an email inviting me to drop by whenever I wanted, because it would not take very long to replace this part.
He was kind enough to allow me to take some pictures of the part and the disassembly process, here they are, in step by step format, in case anyone has a similar problem in the future.
*1) Lower the big panel in the 'roof' of the trunk compartment, to allow you to get access to all the electronic controllers.*
This panel is held in place by 9 Torx head screws. 7 of the screws are around the perimeter of the panel, 2 are located in the middle of the panel. The screws are all covered with a black flock finish, to match the panel, and finding the screws is a bit like looking for a black cat in a coal mine at night. You need quite a bright worklight to find them.
When you have all the screws removed, the panel will lower. It is hinged at its forward edge.








*2) Remove and replace the controller module.*
This is very quick and easy, it is 'plug and play'. Like most other control modules in the Phaeton, it is easiest to remove the electrical connector first, then physically remove the module. When installing the new module, put it in place first, then plug it in second.
The first hint we had that things were going well was when the trunk lights illuminated as soon as the new controller was installed. It seems that operation of the trunk lights, as well as latch operation, raising and lowering the trunk lid, and pinch protection are all controlled from the J605 module.








*3) Adapt the new module, so it knows the position of the trunk lid when it is fully open and fully closed.*
Most controller modules in the Phaeton need to be 'adapted' whenever a new control module is installed. Adaptation is the process of familiarizing the module with the signals coming from the components that it controls, so that it can properly operate them. It's exactly the same process as what you do when you set new tire pressures in your TPMS - what you are doing is 'adapting' the TPMS to the new pressures, so it knows what the acceptable range is.
To adapt the J605 module, open address 46 (the J393 Central Control Module for the Comfort System), select function 10, adaptation, and go to channel 22. Close the trunk lid (it won't latch, but put it in the fully closed position) and then re-enter 0 (zero) as the adaptation value. Next, move the trunk lid to the fully open position, go to channel 23, and re-enter 0 (zero) as the adaptation value. Now you have defined the extreme limits of movement of the trunk lid, and the new module will work perfectly.
It is important to note that the new module will not work at all unless you adapt it. This is not mentioned in the Phaeton service manual, because it is assumed to be common knowledge for every control module. Also, note that you cannot directly address the J605 module, because it is a slave to the J393. This is why you open the J393 controller (address 46) when you want to adapt the trunk lid control module.
Anyway - the trunk lid now works perfectly. It was a quick and easy fix.
Michael


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## BMW Killa (Nov 20, 2003)

*Re: How to replace the J605 Trunk Lid Control Module (PanEuropean)*

im thoroughly enjoying your passion for the Pheaton...are you connected to VWoA in any way, PanEuropean?


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: How to replace the J605 Trunk Lid Control Module (Maxt2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Maxt2* »_...are you connected to VWoA in any way, PanEuropean? 

No, not in any way at all, however remote. I like VW products, and have owned 7 others (Golfs and Jettas) before I bought my Phaeton. I am fascinated by the quality of the Phaeton - the careful thought that went into the design and engineering, the amazing build quality, and how well the car performs. I also like taking it apart and putting it back together again.
I am also very fortunate to have a wonderful VW dealer, where all the staff share my enthusiasm. When I call up to make a service appointment, their first question is usually "Would you like us to do the service for you, or would you prefer to do it yourself in your favorite work-bay?"
By profession, I am an aircraft pilot and engineer, and the aviation safety manager for a large humanitarian organization.
Michael


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## mikes phaeton1 (Jan 3, 2010)

*Trunk Adaptation on existing control module?*

Michael,

I realize that this is an old thread, however I am having trunk open and close issues. I tried resetiing as described in other threads to no avail. Could the original Control Module ever need re-adapted? The reason I ask is that under the Vag-Com, when I test the trunk lid, it works with no problem. When I remove the Vag and use the key, door switch, or the microswitch, it acts as though it never worked before? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks Mike


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

mikes phaeton1 said:


> Could the original Control Module ever need re-adapted?


Yes, for sure. Just open up the label file for controller 46 (the trunk lid control module is a slave controller to the central comfort control module, which is 46) and read the instructions for adaptation contained in the label file. I wrote them myself... 

The label file for that control module is entitled "3D0-959-933.lbl", and it is probably located at the path "C:\Ross-Tech\VCDS\Labels" on your computer. It is a simple text file, open it up with any text editor such as Notepad or Wordpad.

Michael


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## mikes phaeton1 (Jan 3, 2010)

I actually took the thread advise and reprogrammed the key fob. This has worked so far. Imagine pulling the trunk up manually for the past 6 months because I was too lazy to start reading threads! It is still working:thumbup: If this fails, I may reprogram. 

I can now once again have my 5 year old son stand behind the car and say "Phaeton" into the emblem to get the truck to open. He gets a big kick out of thinking his voice is programmed to do this and has no idea I have the keyfob in my hand. Its good laugh and makes me smile everytime he does it 

Thanks once again for the advise.

Mike


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## CLMims (Jul 13, 2007)

In reading through this label (I am also having a trunk-not-opening situation), I ran across one Measured Value Block that I had to do a double-take:

028,0,Emergency Signals relating to trunk operation
028,1,E406 - New Jersey,escape handle,Possible display: operated/not operated/not installed - (only applies to basic lock)
028,2,Pinch signal,trunk,Possible display: operated/not operated/implausable signal/not installed - (only applies to basic lock)
028,3,Position of,trunk lid,Range: Between 0 degrees and about 30 degrees - 30 is closed
028,4,*Nationality of,body in trunk,Possible display:Italian/Russian/Colombian/ex-wife/Jimmy Hoffa/no body detected*


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

I wrote that label file about 6 years ago - I was wondering how long it would take someone to find that Easter Egg... 

Michael


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## Ph8on (May 31, 2007)

*Trunk Module cost?*

Michael, 


I have run into some issues with my trunk. The lock mechanism got stuck in locked position and the trunk would not fully close. For the pat year of so I have been taking to a local shop to do oil changes, etc since neither VW dealer in San Antonio would work on it (no certified tech) and I'd have to go to Austin (80 miles) to the dealer there. So they fixed the trunk latch assembly ($400 + labor), but after the replacement they could not get the trunk release, key fob, or emblem button on trunk to work. I would only work via inserting the key into the trunk. I used the trunk twice (manually with the key), second time it totally locked up and I could not get into the trunk. And it was ticking like a time bomb and every so often you could hear the new latch mechanism clicking. It did this even when the car was off and no key around so I took it back in. Now they think it is the trunk module, which they say needs to come from the dealer to program, etc which they cannot do. Only took 2 weeks to get this answer (separate frustration/discussion). Luckily, Rod East one of the dealers in San Antonio agreed to look at it. How much will a trunk module set me back before I run to the dealer? Also any other thoughts? My wife is on the verge of making me get rid of it. It has been a real pain to get it serviced in SA. A few months ago it took a month to get 3 windows fixed about someone tried breaking into it or vandalize my poor phaeton. 

Also I think he said he could only get the trunk module to come up on the vag-com once before it would lock up 

Troy


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hello Troy: 

The trunk lid control module is a slave controller to controller 46, the Central Control for Comfort System. To the best of my knowledge, it does not need any "programming", it is just a remove and replace operation. 

The controller needs to be _adapted _once it is installed, but the adaptation deals with the minute differences in physical dimensions and friction that exist from one trunk lid to another (one car to another). That is identical in concept to adapting power windows. The adaptation can be carried out with a VAG-COM (VCDS) scan tool, and is fully described in the notes contained in label file. Look for the label file on the computer that is used for the scan tool, it will be in a folder called Ross-Tech located at the root level of the drive, the file name is 3D0-959-933.lbl. Label files are nothing more than text files, so, open the file with Notepad and read it. 

Towards the bottom of that label file (about 90% of the way to the end) you will find the following: 
 
A022,0,Adaptation of J605 controller (motorized trunk lid) - closed position 
; 
A023,0,Adaptation of J605 controller (motorized trunk lid) - open position 
; 
;Remark: The above two functions are used whenever a new J605 controller is installed. 
;Once the J605 has been adapted, it can usually be re-adapted (if it becomes confused, for example, 
;by activation of pinch protection, or changing direction in the middle of a cycle) by simply moving 
;- by hand - the trunk lid to the fully open position, then pressing the 'trunk lid release' button 
;on the key fob remote, and observing that the two tail-lights blink in recognition. Once that is done, 
;the trunk lid can then be closed by pressing the close button located on the bottom lip of the trunk lid. 
;It should not be necessary to have to use a scan tool to re-adapt a confused trunk lid mechanism. 
; 
A024,0,Adaptation of J605 controller (motorized trunk lid) - Range of Motion 
A24,05,This procedure is used to allow the hydraulic trunk lid mechanism to learn 
A24,06,the full range of motion available to it. Follow these steps: 
A24,07, 1 - Start the engine and leave it running for the duration of the procedure. 
A24,08, 2 - Place the trunk lid in the two-thirds open position. 
A24,09, 3 - Make sure there are no objects or cables in the way of the trunk lid closing. 
A24,10, 4 - WARNING - Pinch Protection is inhibited during this adaptation procedure! 
A24,11, 5 - Enter, test, and save a value of 0 (zero) in channel 24. 
A24,12, 6 - The lid will open fully, then close fully. Stay out of its way! 
A24,13, The adaptation procedure is now complete. 

You might want to try doing this before you buy a new control module. It is possible that simply re-adapting your J605 will solve the problem. When the J605 broke on my car, it gave a very clear fault code: "J605 defective", or words to that effect. 

Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Photos re-hosted.


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## EurodriverMK3 (Apr 5, 2008)

Hello, could this adaptation need to be done if the batteries are disconnected for several days? My on tech package trunk will pop open if I hit either the key fob or switch in the driver door. But when I press the trunk closed, I don't hear that mechanical closing locking noise. It stays closed just fine but whatever that noise is (maybe a second more secure hook) doesn't happen. The fuse is fine. Thanks.



Jordan.


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## entwisi (Feb 19, 2013)

weirdly I had" trunk"( us brits prefer boot) issue this week. went to Tesco, all ok, came to flick the switch on the drivers for at my mum's and nothing... neither remote blip or microswitch would work. for some reason Windows updates had messed up my vcds from working so I was resigned to a few weeks messing when I got chance. however today I tried something, on pressing the remote unlock I could hear the lock mechanism moving so I " helped" the trunk to rise and it seemed to all sort Itself out again. all options now fully functional...


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

EurodriverMK3 said:


> Hello, could this adaptation need to be done if the batteries are disconnected for several days?


Hi Jordan:

I expect so. I know, for sure, that in the case of moving components such as the power windows, power seat, steering wheel, and sunroof, if you have the batteries disconnected for one second, that's long enough to heed to have to re-adapt all these moving parts. I can't imagine that the trunk would be any different.

There is a post in the Phaeton Forum 'Table of Contents' (FAQ by Category) that discusses the adaptation process more thoroughly - just search for the key word 'adapt' (not adaptation) on the FAQ page. I think the post is called "How to Adapt Moving Components".

Michael


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## RomeoFoxtrot (Aug 14, 2013)

*Adapting the controller*

Hello!

PanEuropean, do you know a way i can adapt the j605 controller via VAS? I tried everything, but it has only a self adaption menu item, but that does nothing. Is it possible that it can be only adapted via VAG-COM?

Sincerely, Frigyes


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Frigyes,

Welcome to the forum! Michael/PanEuropean is currently away on business, but I can perhaps help.

According to VWoA Technical Bulletin C 55-06-01, the VAS procedure is this:

1. Make sure the batteries are fully charged.
2. Connect VAS 5051 or VAS 5052.
3. Go to address 46 (Convenience module).
4. Manually open the rear lid to the two-thirds open position.
5. Go to 10-adaptation.
6. Enter channel 24 and press enter (Q).
7. Make sure that there are no physical obstructions that will prevent the lid closing.
8. Press 0 and save.
-- The rear lid will now begin to relearn its travel path and latch operation --

I do not have a VAS, so I cannot verify this for you, but please do report back your results.

If the Convenience Controller and Trunk Lid module are both functioning properly and there are no battery or power supply issues (which may well turn out to be the real problem) then simply manually opening the lid part way then using the remote fob to command it to open and close a couple of times will often reset normal operation.

The trunk lid cables will eventually fray on many pre-2009 Phaetons, which can also cause unexpected lid operation.

Chris


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## RomeoFoxtrot (Aug 14, 2013)

Thanks Chris, i will try that out, i will be out for a week also  I will report back as soon as i get back andhave time to do this procedure!

Frigyes


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

Hello, same trunk issue here, V8 2004. Trunk can't be opened from the driver's door nor the key unit yet it opened using the emblem. Checking the vehicle history, battaries were changed twice and the last time the vehicle was towed to the Shop. We'll take a better look today in the Shop and report.

Truely delighted to see all this enthusiasm and assistance that many provide for the new commers like my self.

Regards,

Salah


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Salah,

Welcome to the forum. I can see by your posts that you have been researching your problem here.

There are many threads that will help you, and I expect you will have searched the TOC sticky to find information on how to check and possibly repair the cable loom that enters the trunk lid through the tube and cassette arrangement. The TOC pages are best searched using your browser text search facility, usually by pressing Ctrl-F in the browser.

Chris


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

Much appreciated Chris. I think I got two hours of sleep since last night all due to my search  You guys are the best that I've seen in any forum wither moderators or members.

Salah


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

Peculiar situation at hand. After tens of tries the trunk failed to open by remot key, failed to open from the door switch, opened once by the actual key and opened randomly by the emblem. Changed the lock unit and the problem presisted. The "open trunk" light still on! That means all the lights inside the trunk are on! Could it be that the emblem switch has a problem?


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

Forgot to add that trunk struts need to be replaced. Found a brand online called "Sachs", I wonder if they're good


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hi Salah:

I believe that what you have to do now is investigate what is called "paths of influence" in order to *RULE OUT *certain components as potential causes of your problem. If you don't first *RULE OUT *(in other words, remove from consideration as possible causes of the problem) various individual components, you run the risk of randomly replacing different components without knowing ahead of time if the particular component you are replacing is, in fact, the cause of the problem. This undesirable approach to fault-finding is referred to as "shotgunning", and it is not a cost-effective way to proceed.

Let's start by defining what we know:

*1) *The trunk lid can (normally) be operated mechanically, using the key blade in the trunk key lock, or electrically, by one of three methods: the pushbutton on a key fob, the switch on the driver door, and (presuming you have the hydraulically powered trunk lid) by pushing on the VW logo on the outside of the trunk lid. In North America, there is a fourth method, using an emergency opening lever which is inside the trunk cavity.

*2) *If there is a failure of the J605 trunk control module, the three electrical methods won't work, but the mechanical method should work.

*3) *If there is a failure of the latching mechanism (which is entirely separate from the J605 trunk control module), it is possible that none of the methods (electrical or mechanical) will work.

*4) *If the central comfort controller (controller 46) is improperly coded (for example, it is coded to tell the car that a hydraulically powered trunk lid is not installed when in fact one is installed), the electrical methods will not work.

All the above is _a priori _knowledge. What follows below is our collective _a posteriori _knowledge:

*5)* We know that the J605 trunk controller fails occasionally, but the mechanical latching mechanism rarely fails.

*6)* We know that if the hydraulically powered trunk lid gets badly out of sync, the electrical methods will not work, but no parts are defective, we only need to re-adapt (re-train) the closing mechanism. That is something that can be done without tools.

*7)* We know that if the left battery is in a low voltage condition, all sorts of things on the car stop working, the trunk lid being one of them.

*8) *Finally, we know that the J605 trunk controller has built-in fault detection and fault reporting capability.

---------------------

So, in order to approach the problem in a logical and efficient manner, we need to look at all of the factors that influence operation of the trunk lid, but before starting work, we need to make a list of these factors, then sort the list out in an order that does not necessarily reflect probability, but works from the "broadest brush" to the most narrow investigation. Our sort order will be further influenced by how easy or difficult it is to assess each factor. In other words, a certain path of influence that might not be highly probable, but can be validated or ruled out in 30 seconds with no tools at all will probably be sorted so that it is investigated prior to a factor that is more probable but requires more work, tools, or money to assess.

Here's how I suggest you proceed:

First and foremost, read all the information here in the forum that pertains to trunk lid problems, and become familiar with the difference between the baseline trunk lid (no hydraulic opening and closing) and the hydraulically assisted trunk lid option. Here is a partial list of what you should read:

How to open the Trunk Lid (electrically, using the pushbutton on the trunk lid logo)
....How to open the Trunk Lid (manually, using the key)
....How to reset the power trunk lid when it gets out of synch
....Trunk will not open... (essential reading, this explains the valet lockout button)  disregard the valet lockout button stuff, that applies to North American cars only
....Trunk will not close...
....Trunk opens by itself.

Trunk Lid Requires Excessive Effort to Close (4E2 or 4E8, not the power operated one)
Trunk - Power Trunk Lid Troubleshooting
....Microswitch behind Trunk Lid Logo (for opening power trunk) does not work
Trunk - Broken Sleeve on Electrical Harness leading to Trunk Lid

Now that you have read all that (it will take an hour or two), proceed as follows:

*A)* Confirm whether your vehicle has the hydraulically powered trunk lid (production code *4E7*) or the baseline trunk lid (production code *4E2*). The easiest way to do this is visual inspection. See post #11 at this discussion: Trunk Lid Requires Excessive Effort to Close An alternative way of determining this, if you cannot get the lid open to look at the hinges, is to look at the production code sticker in your owner manual, or to ask your VW dealer to print out a production code list for your vehicle. See this post for more information: Understanding Phaeton Production Codes & Build Stickers. From here on in, I'm going to assume you have the hydraulically powered trunk lid. If you don't, stop after the first paragraph in point B) below.

*B)* Determine if the Central Comfort Controller (controller 46) is reporting any fault codes. The J605 trunk lid controller is a slave of the central comfort controller, therefore, any faults reported by the J605 will appear under controller 46. To do this, you need a diagnostic scan tool. You can use a VAG-COM (an aftermarket tool made by Ross-Tech), or you can have your VW dealer do this using their VW diagnostic scan tool (VAS 5051, 5052, or subsequent).

At the same time, determine if the Central Comfort Controller (controller 46) is properly coded. If you have the hydraulically powered trunk lid, controller 46 should be coded 0000040. 

If you discover a fault code such as 'Controller - Defective', well, that kind of ends the troubleshooting right there. If not, continue as follows:

*C)* Start the engine of your car, then determine (again, using the diagnostic scan tool, this time by looking at a measured value block or MVB) if the voltage present on the central comfort controller is more or less 14 volts. More or less 14 volts is ideal, anything above 13 volts will do, anything below 13 volts is a significant problem - in other words, low voltage is probably what is causing your trunk problems. Leave the engine running for the balance of the troubleshooting, this to keep the voltage levels up! An alternative to leaving the engine running would be to hook up a battery maintainer, see this post for more information about Battery Maintainers: Purchasing and using a Battery Maintainer for your Phaeton. The battery maintainer needs to be capable of putting out a minimum of 10 amps at or above 13 amps.

*D)* Using the diagnostic scan tool, and with the engine of the car running (or robust battery maintainer hooked up), open controller 46, go to MVB 16-2. Press the big VW emblem on the outside of the trunk lid exactly in the middle, where the horizontal line is between the letters V and W (see post #14 in this discussion for the exact location to press: Trunk - Power Trunk Lid Troubleshooting). You should see the MVB status on the diagnostic scan tool change as you press and release the logo. If you listen very carefully, you will hear the microswitch click. If you don't see the MVB status change, that could mean a busted logo microswitch *OR *a problem with the J605 controller.

*E) *Look at MVBs in group 26 of controller 46, this will tell you the status of the trunk lid as the vehicle perceives it to be. See if this matches the actual physical position of the lid and operating state of the lid.

*F)* Look at MVBs in group 27 of controller 46, this will tell you the status of the trunk latching mechanism as the vehicle perceives it to be. See if this matches the actual physical state of the trunk latch.

*G)* Check your VIN, if it ends with 7666 or lower, confirm that criteria 16 of Campaign 97J9 has been carried out. Your VW dealer can check this using their service record computer system. Alternatively, look for a small sticker in your spare tire well indicating that Campaign 97J9 has been carried out. 

------------------

Once you have done all the above, if you have not by then succeeded in identifying the cause of the problem, let us know.

Finally - you commented in a post above that you assumed that _"The "open trunk" light still on! That means all the lights inside the trunk are on!" _That's actually not true. The car is smarter than you give it credit to be. If the trunk is left open for more than about 15 minutes and no other activity is taking place with the vehicle (no doors being opened or closed, no switches being operated, etc.) the car will turn the trunk light off automatically, even if the trunk lid is open (or believed by the car to be open).

Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Bindaham said:


> Forgot to add that trunk struts need to be replaced. Found a brand online called "Sachs", I wonder if they're good


It's generally safest to stick with the original VW parts, unless you know from experience (or someone else's experience) that an aftermarket part is fully satisfactory.

Those gas struts are not expensive, I'd recommend you just get the VW ones - we're not dealing with hundreds of dollars of savings here.

Apropos of aftermarket parts - you mentioned that your batteries have been replaced - have a look at this discussion: Battery Replacement Procedure, then check and see if the replacement batteries are genuine VW batteries. If you have low voltage problems as a result of using a battery that does not meet VW specs, you will have literally dozens of headaches, week after week, month after month, and it will cost you thousands of dollars and many hours of frustration. The one part on the car that you should absolutely, positively never substitute with an aftermarket part is the left hand battery. So, go take a look at your left hand battery, if it does not look like the larger battery (lower battery) in the picture below, get a genuine VW battery that is identical to the one in the picture below and install it before you go any further. It will probably cost you about $200.

Michael 

*Original Equipment VW Batteries*


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

Michael, you're amazing 

Many thanks for the great info

Will keep you posted soon

Salah


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## RomeoFoxtrot (Aug 14, 2013)

Paximus said:


> Hi Frigyes,
> 
> Welcome to the forum! Michael/PanEuropean is currently away on business, but I can perhaps help.
> 
> ...


Ok, well, i gave time and a lot tries to the problem, but still cant make it happen. I ran a some checks with my VAS 5054 and everything is fine with the controller J605. No problem, only the "Missing default settings" which i understand. But cant make it happen and the problem is, according to the test, that the G383 hydraulic valve sensors state is unreadable. I think thats why it wont start the automatic settings. When i start the adaptation process, the latching mechanism moves, but the lid wont start. Any idea? I dont know where is the G383 and where to check the wires for shortage or stg... :what:

Any help would be greatly appreciated! 

Frici


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Frici,

To inspect the cables, remove the screws and fittings on the trunk lid trim and pull off the lid lining. It has to be pulled off with some force. The screws are different lengths, so remember where each goes. Cables can fray or break inside the cassette and at either end of the tube which manages the movement of the loom as the lid opens and shuts.

The cause of the problem is thought to be the fish-net mesh that surrounds the loom wires. This mesh catches and jams up, causing the wires to be restricted. Some owners discard the mesh, cutting it away using a modelling knife.

The loom can be repaired, or replaced; see the TOC thread that Michael included in his comprehensive advice above in post #23 :

Broken Sleeve on Electrical Harness leading to Trunk Lid How to fix TOC Photos done

It is usual for owners to lubricate the loom using dry PTFE spray to prevent re-occurrence. Do not use silicone spray. Also, please note Michael's warning about the possibility of breaking the rear window glass by ignoring failure of the tube assembly.

Chris


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## RomeoFoxtrot (Aug 14, 2013)

Paximus said:


> Hi Frici,
> 
> To inspect the cables, remove the screws and fittings on the trunk lid trim and pull off the lid lining. It has to be pulled off with some force. The screws are different lengths, so remember where each goes. Cables can fray or break inside the cassette and at either end of the tube which manages the movement of the loom as the lid opens and shuts.
> 
> ...


Thank you for the reply, im quite familiar now with the cables and i can now remove the lining with a blindfold, but dont know which is the G383 module. with that knowledge, i could find the wire responsible for the hydraulic valve and maybe check on it directly. Did a basic checkup on wires, had some frayed ones, repaired that, thats why i removed the J605. Thats now ok, but cant make the hydraulic valve to function properly. 

Frici


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Frici,

Sorry, I did not intend to insult you with information which you know well!

I am guessing that the G383 lid hydraulic sensor is the wired part shown in the photo below, screwed into the pump outlet. The hydraulics unit is only available as a complete assembly to include the pressure lines and left and right cylinders, so perhaps that is why the sensor is not referenced as an separate VW part number.

According to the manual it is accessed by removing the RH side panel and the lower 'avionics' shelf, first disconnecting the controller equipment attached to the shelf. This sounds to me like a simple description for a lengthy job.

Chris


PS - Frici, please can you fill in your Forum profile (see the sticky on page 1) so that your approximate location or country and the car model are available in your posts in various threads? This helps when folks research pieces of information. I know you gave us this information before, but it is buried in previous posts.



*Trunk Lid Hydraulics and Hinges*








image (c) eBay

*Inside the Hydraulics Unit foam package, showing sensor*








image (c) eBay


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## RomeoFoxtrot (Aug 14, 2013)

I did not felt insulted at any way! I am sorry that you felt that!

I am disappointed only, cause i cant figure it out whats the problem with my trunk :/

Thank you for the pics, the VAS5054 told me to check the g383 wiring, i have to remove the 6pin connector and mesure the voltage. Simply cant find it  Hope your pics help, iw ill reply with results soon.

Thanks again, Frici

PS, i filled the informations about myself, thanks for warning, i tought i did that already


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## RomeoFoxtrot (Aug 14, 2013)

OK, im stuck... 

I have no idea whats wrong with my trunk, every part seems to be working fine, but together they wont move the lid :/


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## Fighterguy (Aug 23, 2006)

*Before adapting, make sure all the J393 fault codes are actually cleared.*

Had a battery charging problem resulting in a dead battery. After fixing, ran the Auto Scan option from the VAG-COM main screen. A look at all the resulting fault codes for each controller showed them to be what you would expect from a dead battery. Then, I did the Clear all DTCs within the Auto Scan option. 

Power trunk still would not function, both open and close. Selected Controller Address 46 in VAG-COM and did all the above functional testing and adaptation procedures detailed by Michael. Still no joy. 

Began to repeat all adaptation steps, in the thought that I might have missed something. But, this time, just on a whim, I selected Fault Codes in Address 46 first, before selecting Adaptation . Surprise, surprise. All the original DTC fault codes from the Auto Scan where still there; apparently never actually cleared. After selecting Clear Codes within the Address 46 function, I repeated the adaptation fully closed and fully open procedures, and full functionality was restored.

Didn't take the time, but I will, to go back and individually open all the other controllers that generated fault codes from the dead battery in Auto Scan to see if they weren't cleared either.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hi Eric:

Welcome back! Great to hear from you again, happy to know you still have the car.

There is a beta version (version 14.x.x) of VCDS (VAG-COM) available that might solve the problem you were having with clearing codes. It's still in beta test, not yet bulletproof, but I have been using it for about a month without problems. The beta is not advertised at the Ross-Tech site, but if you go to the Ross-Tech site and type 'beta' in the search box, you will be able to find it.

When you install a beta version of VCDS, it installs into it's own folder entirely separate from the full release version you already have installed. Hence you will have two complete and entirely separate applications on the computer, one being the beta and the other being the current release.

Michael


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## Fighterguy (Aug 23, 2006)

Michael,

Thanks for the VAG-COM Beta insight. Haven't been totally gone, just no problems to solve. 

Plan on keeping the Phaeton for a long time (my other one-owner is a '72 BMW with 350K miles). Has virtually all the bells and whistles I would like and the styling is still not out of date. Everyone riding in it for the first time thinks the same things, can't believe it is nine years old, and much less that it's a VW. That said, since my last post I have done some more customization. From the Bentley parts bin I've replaced the seat control switch panels and the turn signal/wiper control unit. For looks, of course, but the turn signal/wiper actually feels like it has more substantial components inside it. Also, for looks, from a German website I got a chrome trim surround for the display between the speedometer and tach. Puzzling that it is the only instrument display there without trim already. Especially since the same display in the Bentley does have it. The website also had trim for other displays and switches, but I thought them superfluous. Finally, just because, I did (myself) the dealer install Touareg headrest CD player option. Headrest shape and leather color a perfect match, but the post ends required some modification. 

Only later model things I wish I had are the DVD Nav system with the 3D display and Bluetooth phone interface (to be able to use any cell phone). Assume both would require replacing the J523 Control Head as well. I know you've done this replacement yourself, but it hasn't passed my cost/benefit test...yet. On the other hand, a newer J523 would come with the chrome-edged control knobs, which I would have gotten already, if available separately.

Approaching the dreaded 80K belt replacement.

Eric


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## Chris Darby (Aug 13, 2014)

*Bentley Boot Controller*

Hello there,
I am a newbie, to the car and this excellent forum, I recently bought a 2007 V6 3 litre, with a boot lid problem. Harness looks ok and battery checked and ok.
I am waiting for the VAG COM man to ring back, and tell me when he can run a check, and have fingers crossed it only needs adapting. 
Expecting the worse, I have noticed Bentley Boot Lid Controller on ebay with part no 3W0 909 610 as opposed to vw #3D0 909 610, 
does any one know if it is compatible .
thanks
Chris


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Chris,

Welcome!

It is true that there are some 3D0 (Phaeton) parts in Bentleys, and some Bentley parts in Phaetons, but if the factories assign a different part number it is probably significant. For example, the 3W0 controller could have different software parameters, accounting for the different travel of the Bentley lid or perhaps a different weight characteristic over the sequence in the diagnostics monitoring.

I doubt there's much harm in trying a 3W0 part, but nine times in ten in the forum it's something other than the controller that is causing a boot lid problem, such as the latch motor failing to complete its cycle thus inhibiting the hydraulic pump, or the well-known loom problem. The lid controller is a slave to the Central Convenience Controller, so that too is involved.

Your full scan should help diagnosis a lot. Feel free to get a copy as a TXT file and post it here, preferably the third scan after saving one before and one after clearing all DTCs, then exercising the boot lid controls (door button, lid button, remote fob) and taking a third scan. The engine should preferably be running.

I assume that the lid controller fuse SC43 (30A), in the panel above the left battery, is intact.

Chris


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## sharad (Feb 10, 2015)

*How to use*

Dear Michale,
kindly discrive how to use blow mention Number.
A024,0,Adaptation of J605 controller (motorized trunk lid) - Range of Motion
A24,05,This procedure is used to allow the hydraulic trunk lid mechanism to learn
A24,06,the full range of motion available to it. Follow these steps:
A24,07, 1 - Start the engine and leave it running for the duration of the procedure.
A24,08, 2 - Place the trunk lid in the two-thirds open position.
A24,09, 3 - Make sure there are no objects or cables in the way of the trunk lid closing.
A24,10, 4 - WARNING - Pinch Protection is inhibited during this adaptation procedure!
A24,11, 5 - Enter, test, and save a value of 0 (zero) in channel 24.
A24,12, 6 - The lid will open fully, then close fully. Stay out of its way!
A24,13, The adaptation procedure is now complete.


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## Juhani (Sep 15, 2012)

*Damn lid*

Thursday,07,January,2016,14:26:02:49813
VCDS Version: Release 15.7.3 (x64) Running on Windows 10 x64
www.Ross-Tech.com

Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 3D0-959-933.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 3D0 959 933 F
Component and/or Version: 0E HSG 0101
Software Coding: 0000040
Work Shop Code: WSC 04926 001 00001
Additional Info: 3D1959701E Tuersteuergeraet FS 0104 3D1959702E Tuersteuergeraet BF 0104 3D0959703E Tuersteuergeraet HL 0104 
Additional Info: 3D0959704E Tuersteuergeraet HR 0104 3D0909610A 3G HDSG 2320 
VCID: 3365A7D551F7FDA6BC-4AF0
2 Faults Found:

01699 - Motor for Central Locking; Hatch/Trunk (V53) 
003 - Mechanical Failure - Intermittent
00896 - Trunk Lock Unit (F256) 
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

Have been fighting with lid a month. It started with wire brekage, was difficult to find because connection was lost only when wiring was moving in closing lid. Repaired that it was under ball 90deg movement, before tested with two indedtical motors and measured Hall sensors on both, bosch motor has Hall sensor with only two wires +vvc wire douples as signal wire.
Openned lock and checked 4 micro swithes inside, OK as its mechanically.
After wire repair got it working after about 20 tries, but when assemblin cassette etc. it again went south, there was 4 chaffed wires inside canvas booth where wires loop in cassette, motors sensor +vvc shorted to other motor wire, after that J605, 3D0 909 610B did not answer anymore, it now has 610A but with same soft/hardware S2320 H31, so it should work. It takes 22 and 23 fine and then shows angles 0 open 30 closed, but when I put 24 and run sequence, then lockmotor runs 2 sec, these faults are on and then fault also with J605 :" no basic adaptation comes", then it does not know angles anymore before you put 22 and 23 again.
Have used too much time allready so cannot give up anymore. Is it that 610A wont work, but anything from B upwards C,D,F wuold?


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Juhani said:


> Thursday,07,January,2016,14:26:02:49813
> VCDS Version: Release 15.7.3 (x64) Running on Windows 10 x64
> www.Ross-Tech.com
> 
> ...



If your trunk lid module is bad, it should say:

00317 - Rear Lid Control Module (J605)
004 - No Signal/Communication

With this fault, the turn signals flash if I press the key or the trunk badge. If I don't have my key and I press on the badge, I get a "Key Not Found" message on the dashboard display. 

However:
1. The dashboard display does not know when the trunk lid is open.
2. The interior trunk lights do not come on when the lid is open.
3. The closing button does not light up or close the lid. 
4. The lid does not open or close electrically. 

All of those functions are controlled by the Rear Lid Control Module. 


I can press the badge when the lid is open and the turn signals will flash, but the lid will not move.

Is this the Rear Lid Control Module that came with the car? If so, it should work with the car. If you can borrow another module, you could try it. There is a very, very slight chance that if the module is bad, then the "new" one could blow if you swap them. 

I know you feel like you have wasted too much time already, but the best way to troubleshoot wires is to remove all power and Ohm out the wires. Depending on sensors, you might or might not have power at a terminal at a given time. Unless you have true schematics that show what signals are present, you are just guessing what is supposed to be there. Wiring diagrams are like road maps. They show you what roads lead to the stores, but don't show what's inside the stores.


It's a pain to Ohm out all of those wires. You can start with the power wires. The next step is to replace the wiring harness.

My 1st Phaeton rear lid never opened when I pressed the badge. It sometimes stopped working but I could reset the codes and get it to work again. Finally it refused to work at all. There were several broken wires in my trunk harness. Some repaired wires near the ball and the large red/yellow wire was snapped at the top of the tube. When I tore it all apart I found others that were broken. I took about a month to repair it, but it works better than it ever did.

After I replaced the comfort battery on my 2nd Phaeton, the trunk lid didn't work. I thought I was going to have to replace the wiring harness again, but it looks like it's the module. Too bad. The wiring harness is cheaper and I'm sure I will have to repair it in the future anyway.

Good luck. 

-Eric


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## Juhani (Sep 15, 2012)

*ohm wires*

Yes, have ohmed wires tens of times, thats how I found first wire breagage, ohming and moving/twisting/pulling wiring at same time, broken wire was common -vvc for all 4 micros inside the lock, so no wonder it did not work. As it was difficult to find, in meantime I played with motors, sensors and lock, found no fail there vent back to wiring. Unfortunately there was other failure inside wiring loom and it shorted when moving, and then I got message, 004 no communication, only, so J605 broken.
Qestion is can you use 3D0 909 610A instead of 3D0 909 610B cars orginal, they have same soft/hardware labels S2320 H31.
I newer tried automatic adaptation channel 24 with ...610B  had not found this thread then, but I think it cannot work if those faults come immediately when lockmotor runs a bit.
Those were also orginal faults when wire was broken. But I got it running with lock as it is now and motorsensor as it is, before wires shorted and ...... 610B died it happened after I put cassette back together, should have openened wiring from canvasheet, but I have only had wire bregages like where wire looks good, insulation OK but cut inside copper, 3 of those with lid wiring, all near swiveling ball. Boy am pissed that did not check possible insulation fraying inside cassette.
Juhani


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## Dangerrous (Sep 14, 2014)

My car suffered the same type of problems, I took everything apart. First I found that the electromechanical trunk latch had got itself into a bit of a mess. This was caused by one of the microswitch cables failing in the wiring loom. I replaced the whole loom, but mixed two wires up (not the ones Michael mention) this caused the electric trunk function to allow 5 degrees of movement and stop even after an adaption. Only when I carried out a step by step diagnostic check did I find the fault, I switched the two wires and it now works fine. 
This can be very frustrating, in my case the module was not at fault. The boot harness had failed, in most cases the harness is the problem. The boot module is usually available on allegro for around £30, if yours is faulty.
Darren


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## Juhani (Sep 15, 2012)

*Lock*

Yes, this is exactly what puzzles me. Fault was on wire cut first, I did not first find it, and looked fault from inside lock, four micros there, lock opens easy expept two safts which douple as rivets need to be drilled, they can be substituted with bolts later, micros where fine and are cast inside epoxy, two of them work like NC normaly closed, and two NO which I think not so clever, other parts,gears,spings all OK and they only fit there one way. Small Bosch gearmotor drives this and has that Hall sensor, that makes one pulse/rev.
I quess its used to see only that motor is moving, pulses are the same both directions so it could be used in theory also to control lock movements but then logic just counts pulses
without knowing direction, that could work until power is disrupted, then position need to be searched again and positions come from micros. Probably positions come from micros always and sensor just gives proof that motor is running, but if no running signal then it fails.
Lid worked with this wiring before it shorted inside cassette with only that one wire repaired I did not replace any other, mixing them is viable possibility otherwise colors are not that bright. But it worked with other motor I got from Ebay, althoug sensors behave the same when measured.
But then short destroyed controlmodule, and maybe?? sensor too, eventhoug it measures OK.
Measuring inside controlmodule its difficult to see how a short could broke it, all signals come over resistors, and there is nothing measurable or visible fault, but when short happened relay was left ticking once second and it only quit by pulling fuse, after that its not on line anymore so thats that.
Its stupid that you have Can-bus but module is behind two meters of wiring, 24 wires I think,between moving part, if contror wuold be in lid you wuold need four, same box could easy run lihts too, only three functions. 
Juhani


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## Chris Darby (Aug 13, 2014)

If its any help my 07 had boot fault vcds pointed to controller but found several broken wires in the loop inside the rectangular cassette. Repaired wires and also had to physically turn one of the motors in the catch mechanism to get it in the correct position. Touch wood its been ok for over a year now and did not need controller
Good luck
Once the boot was fixed the webasto heater broke which is a real pain to fix.
Chris

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Dangerrous said:


> My car suffered the same type of problems, I took everything apart. First I found that the electromechanical trunk latch had got itself into a bit of a mess. This was caused by one of the microswitch cables failing in the wiring loom. I replaced the whole loom, but mixed two wires up (not the ones Michael mention) this caused the electric trunk function to allow 5 degrees of movement and stop even after an adaption. Only when I carried out a step by step diagnostic check did I find the fault, I switched the two wires and it now works fine.
> This can be very frustrating, in my case the module was not at fault. The boot harness had failed, in most cases the harness is the problem. The boot module is usually available on allegro for around £30, if yours is faulty.
> Darren


What's Allegro? The cheapest I have found for a Rear Lid Module is $250.00 or so for a used one or over $400.00 for a new one.


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## Juhani (Sep 15, 2012)

*Allegro*

Allegro is Polish "Ebay" lot of Phaeton stuff there, allthough have not seen J605 there under 450zl thats about 100E I think.
Still have not got lid to work, does anyone know will 3D0 909 610A work in place .....610B as its downwards in foodchain.
Checked wiring again three times and tryed asseble lock in any otherway, but thats not possible it only fits and works oneway.
And then is there some certain position lock should be when you connect it, tried several no difference.
Juhani


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Juhani,

The part number for the boot lid controller that is now listed for all years of Phaeton, 2002 to 2016, is 3D0 909 610F. That is the latest part.

This implies that all parts from 3D0 909 610 (with no suffix letter) up to suffix letter F will do the same job on an older car and can be fitted OK. But there may be software bug fixes in the later parts, or extra protocols added for late model builds which are not needed by the older vehicle and are ignored.

One reason for the factory updating a part number and nothing changing functionally is that the design is simplified or just made more cheaply by a different contractor, in the Czech Republic for example instead of France or England.

Chris


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## Juhani (Sep 15, 2012)

Ok. that figures, so it could just be that ....610A is damaged , it wont run channel 24 automatic adaptation, and loses positions given in 22 and 23 and makes fault: "no basic adaptation" orginal ....610B is dead, no signal/communication. Its then also possible that later models work better, less bugs and better program. Need to get a F.

Juhani


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Juhani said:


> Ok. that figures, so it could just be that ....610A is damaged , it wont run channel 24 automatic adaptation, and loses positions given in 22 and 23 and makes fault: "no basic adaptation" orginal ....610B is dead, no signal/communication. Its then also possible that later models work better, less bugs and better program. Need to get a F.
> 
> Juhani


Juhani,

Are you saying you tried a 610A and a 610B and neither worked?


-Eric


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## Juhani (Sep 15, 2012)

Well yes, 610B did work after wire cut repair, but when assebling cassette, inside canvas sheet the other lockmotor wire and other Hall-sensor wire shorted, that killed 610B, or atleast its sayed after that "no signal/communication" Got 610A but it wont run channel 24 and loses lid position when you try. And it just doest learn to control lid.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Juhani,

I just pulled my module out of my Phaeton and it's a 3D0 909 610 B.

It worked great until I fried it.

The cover just pops off without tools. It's full of SMDs and nothing looks or smells fried. I'll swap it with another one to see if I can fix my lid.

BTW, the revision VW sells now is a G, even for NA cars. 

-Eric


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## Juhani (Sep 15, 2012)

Hi, how did you fried it. I sended 610A back, maybe there is some fault in it or...
Found 610E new from ebay. not bad price, lets see what happens when it arrives.
Yes box opens easy, and I also folloved all signals with multimeter
and well, nothing obvious broken, things impossible to measure with
that are two prosessors, smallest one is just ops.amp more modern
of good old 7041
Totally pissed about whole mess, but cant give up I will make it work.


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## Juhani (Sep 15, 2012)

sharad said:


> Dear Michale,
> kindly discrive how to use blow mention Number.
> A024,0,Adaptation of J605 controller (motorized trunk lid) - Range of Motion
> A24,05,This procedure is used to allow the hydraulic trunk lid mechanism to learn
> ...


And then this? I understood that you put 0 to channel 24, hit save,
and lid starts automatic adaptation. What are those other numbers?
I am missing something?


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Juhani said:


> Hi, how did you fried it. I sended 610A back, maybe there is some fault in it or...
> Found 610E new from ebay. not bad price, lets see what happens when it arrives.
> Yes box opens easy, and I also folloved all signals with multimeter
> and well, nothing obvious broken, things impossible to measure with
> ...


I fried it by hooking up my comfort battery after replacing it. I had both batteries disconnected and did everything right. I even took out both fuel pump relays to be sure my fuel pumps didn't pressurize the system if I opened my door. I should have taken out the trunk module fuse, but it would take all day to remove all of the control module fuses.

Ironically, I would have saved money getting the battery swapped at the dealer.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Juhani said:


> And then this? I understood that you put 0 to channel 24, hit save,
> and lid starts automatic adaptation. What are those other numbers?
> I am missing something?


I don't know what the other numbers are (line numbers in label file?)

It's just the steps:

1 - Start the engine and leave it running for the duration of the procedure.
2 - Place the trunk lid in the two-thirds open position.
3 - Make sure there are no objects or cables in the way of the trunk lid closing.
4 - WARNING - Pinch Protection is inhibited during this adaptation procedure!
5 - Enter, test, and save a value of 0 (zero) in channel 24.
6 - The lid will open fully, then close fully. Stay out of its way!
The adaptation procedure is now complete.

It didn't work on mine (fried module). I think it's only needed if you replace the module. I don't think it will work if your wires are broken or the module is bad.



-Eric


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## Juhani (Sep 15, 2012)

*610E*

Ok ...... 610E arrived, it was unused, in orginal box, from 2009. I checked wiring, now with 1 ampere load, no voltage drops in there, plugged module in, fuse in, cleared faults, adapted channels 22,23, tried to run channel 24, lock motor moved a little, and then module lost adapted values in 22,23 
fault was no basic adaptation, dammed, Ok put zeroes again to 22,23, looked that lid again knev position from measured values, vent and hit close switch on lid. Lock run full movement from stop to stop and stoped on right position when it latches on closed lid, checked faults, none there, hit switch again and lid closed and locked, Yes, pushed emblem, lid opened, latch hided, Yes, run it 5 times in row perfect movements every time.
So reason for all this trouble was orginally, broken/shorted wiring to lid, that fried orginal 610B also, nothing wrong in lock, hydraulics, lid position sensor. Juhani


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## cbh123 (Aug 25, 2013)

Well done !


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

I fried my trunk lid module and couldn't get a junkyard module or a new -F module to adapt. I tried again the other day with the original module (no communication), the new module (No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation) and the junkyard module (No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation).

I thought I must be doing something wrong. When the lid was open, it was reading 0 degrees and when it was closed it read 29.5 degrees. I checked the "good" Phaeton and its trunk lid had the same readings.

I gave up today and took it the the dealer. They diagnosed it to a bad trunk harness and showed me several broken or frayed wires. The service advisr and mechanic said I could have the harness replaced or repaired. 

The service advisor told me a repair would just be a temporary fix and not under warranty. I agreed to the terms and had them patch the wires. I gave the sevice advisor the part number for the harness I used in the other Phaeton. He had the parts person look up the part number and he said it was a trunk harness, but wasn't for my VIN. 

I asked the service advisor how they diagnosed the bad harness because it didn't show up in a scan. He said it was a common problem and wouldn't show up in a scan.

I asked the service advisor if they could order parts that weren't listed for my VIN and he didn't think so.

I never suspected the wires because the trunk worked perfectly before I changed the comfort battery. The wires must have broken when I was manually opening the lid while the battery was out. I didn't notice any (electrical) problems because I was opening and closing it by hand.

I told the service advisor I felt stupid because I never suspected the wires.

Anyhow, my trunk works perfectly now with the junkyard module and the temp fixed harness.

-Eric


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

Congratulations Eric,

I'm still having trunk problems. When I open it from my door or by the key fob it opens and locks then opens again but doesn't go up at all. I have to lift it up manually. When I try to close it, it doesnt go down so I have to close it manually. No codes thrown in the scan. 

The lid hydraulic unit was leaking so I had it replaced with a used unit, I tried the address 46 - 24 procedure and to my surprise the lid moved all the way up (from being 2/3 open) but it didn't go down :sly:

I'll try lubricating the hinges. I'm on the verge of converting the trunk to a manual one all together. 

Regards,


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## cbh123 (Aug 25, 2013)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> I fried my trunk lid module and couldn't get a junkyard module or a new -F module to adapt. I tried again the other day with the original module (no communication), the new module (No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation) and the junkyard module (No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation).
> 
> I thought I must be doing something wrong. When the lid was open, it was reading 0 degrees and when it was closed it read 29.5 degrees. I checked the "good" Phaeton and its trunk lid had the same readings.
> 
> ...


Do you have your old controller ? Might it be still good?


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## Juhani (Sep 15, 2012)

*Damn lid*

Yeah wiring was root cause to all my lid trouble too. Its clear desing failure, normal pvc wiring doing sharp 90 deg turn and sliding 180 deg turn inside box, could work with wires meant for use like that but not normal ones. Especially when its sub zero wiring insulation is brittle. It does not matter if you use lid manually wiring does not know. I ditched box completely, reapaired wires and replaced few and made loom covered with woven nylon, it comes out from orginal point on car side, runs partly sideways to lid maybe 10cm to middle from orginal point. Works fine, coils easy without sharp bend and looks OK. And easy to open and repair if needed. Lid has worked suberb with ....610E


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

cbh123 said:


> Do you have your old controller ? Might it be still good?


I keep everything that's not mangled, so it's in a box with all the relays I replaced. I'm pretty sure the relays are good. I swapped them out as a preventive measure (I thought maybe a voltage spike killed the trunk module.) 

I now think it was a voltage spike, but it's because the alarm started blaring when I hooked up the comfort batter so I yanked the negative cable back off to turn off the alarm. When that didn't work, I put the negative cable back on so I could shut off the alarm with the key. If I remember correctly, the alarm would not silence with the comfort battery disconnected. 


When I had to disconnect both batteries in the other P to charge the comfort battery, I removed all relays and fuses in the trunk fuse box. After reconnecting the batteries, I reinstalled each relay one at a time then each fuse one at a time. When I got to the fuse for the trunk lid control module, the alarm started blaring. So, it appears that the trunk motion sensors are also controlled by the trunk lid controller. 


It's possible that the original module is still good. However, the trunk lights don't work with it installed. The trunk lights worked with the junkyard controller (now installed) and the new controller. Also, the last time I scanned it there was no communication with it. 

The error was:

00317 - Rear Lid Control Module (J605) 
004 - No Signal/Communication

The Junkyard and the new one had this fault:

00317 - Rear Lid Control Module (J605)
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation

Also, the trunk open warning came on with the Junkyard and new controllers. (It stayed on with the lid closed but it was on.) The trunk open warning never came on after I fried the original controller. 


The original has no ozone smell (burnt electronics smell) and nothing "looks" fried, but most of the components are SMDs. To check them you would probably need an oscilloscope and know offhand what signals should be present for each operating condition. I would begin by checking the input since it appears to be completely dead. The voltage to the input pin was good when I checked it. If I had to make a guess, I would say the SMD connected to the input pin is fried. However, I never "guessed" the wiring was bad.


A second set of eyes is always a good idea. They usually ignore what is "known" by the original troubleshooter and start at the beginning. 

I was going off what I "knew": The trunk lid worked perfectly including VW badge, door switch, remote and close button. I installed new comfort battery. Got arc and alarm blaring when connecting battery. Trunk lid not working. Conclusion: Fried controller. Replaced controller - twice. No good. 

Second set of eyes: Trunk lid not working. Checked wiring. Fixed wiring. All good.

-Eric


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Juhani said:


> Yeah wiring was root cause to all my lid trouble too. Its clear desing failure, normal pvc wiring doing sharp 90 deg turn and sliding 180 deg turn inside box, could work with wires meant for use like that but not normal ones. Especially when its sub zero wiring insulation is brittle. It does not matter if you use lid manually wiring does not know. I ditched box completely, reapaired wires and replaced few and made loom covered with woven nylon, it comes out from orginal point on car side, runs partly sideways to lid maybe 10cm to middle from orginal point. Works fine, coils easy without sharp bend and looks OK. And easy to open and repair if needed. Lid has worked suberb with ....610E



Do you have pictures?


It would be cool if somebody came up with an aftermarket solution that looked original but was easily repairable or replaceable. 

That's if you could get some OEM parts and make the aftermarket parts heavy duty. I have Blue Igniter spark plug wires on my Corrado and Scirocco and they use OEM terminals to make sure they fit as well as OEM.

If you couldn't get OEM parts, you would probably have to modify and/or repair original harnesses. You could modify the replacement harness, but that would get really expensive and be hard to market. You would probably end up taking harnesses out of junk cars and repairing and modifying the harnesses.

-Eric


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Bindaham said:


> Congratulations Eric,
> 
> I'm still having trunk problems. When I open it from my door or by the key fob it opens and locks then opens again but doesn't go up at all. I have to lift it up manually. When I try to close it, it doesnt go down so I have to close it manually. No codes thrown in the scan.
> 
> ...


The VW service advisor told me my bad wiring wouldn't show up on a scan. If I had suspected the wiring at all, I would have opened the cassette and peeled back the covering and had a look. 

I had them repair the wiring because I was there anyway and it was already apart. 3 wires were snapped and 3 others had broken insulation. They showed me the wires. They were obviously not new breaks and had been going bad for a while. 

The service advisor quoted me a price. I thought it was high and told him I just wanted it put back together. A few minutes later I asked if that price was in addition to the cost of the diagnosis or if the new price was the total cost. When he told me it was the total cost, I told him to just go ahead and repair the wiring. 
Also, the tail light and reverse light wires go through the same bundle. It's also a safety issue if the wiring might be bad. The VW technician used airbag repair splices because they are flexible.

If you find the bad wires yourself, you would save the cost of the diagnosis (if you have somebody else repair the harness).

It's not that hard to replace the harness. It just costs a lot and it's going to need replacing again in another 10 - 12 years if the car is driven.

I have thought of maybe getting a "base" Phaeton for a daily driver with a manual trunk. They still have a wiring bundle, but it probably has a few less wires (no close button). However, they still unlock the latch electrically as far as I know. 

You could disconnect the harness from the trunk latch so it won't try to unlatch by itself. Mine kept going to a position where it wouldn't latch and I had to take the motor out and rotate it to the retracted positon manually. In the retracted position, you can use your key to open it. Then it will latch if you slam it.

Mine are not that hard to open against the hydraulics after I've done it a few times. The hardest part is getting them to latch and I usually have to slam them hard a few times. I don't like having to put my hands on the paint especially if the car is dirty.

-Eric


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

I was just thinking "outside the lid" and came up with a solution that would eliminate the wiring harness altogether. 

You have some contacts in connectors on the edge of the trunk lid and corresponding connectors where the lid hits the body. They would be like the connectors on the bottom of some laptops that allow them to be docked to docking stations.

The hydraulics get their power from outside the lid, so the lid would move even with no power to it. You would just have to tell the controller that the lid was moving. You would have to relocate the close button also. (That hole would be a good place to put the edge connector.)

Of course, years down the road, somebody would be cursing the stupid engineer who came up with the dumb edge contact idea.

-Eric


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## Juhani (Sep 15, 2012)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Do you have pictures?
> 
> 
> It would be cool if somebody came up with an aftermarket solution that looked original but was easily repairable or replaceable.
> ...


I have some pics but dont know how to put them here. Its not easy to replace wiring with contacts there is +25 wires also lights and when you open connections all controllers will go to error and store code, and lock motor need power during movement and you will lose motor pulse count from hall sensor.


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## cbh123 (Aug 25, 2013)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> I keep everything that's not mangled, so it's in a box with all the relays I replaced. I'm pretty sure the relays are good. I swapped them out as a preventive measure (I thought maybe a voltage spike killed the trunk module.)
> 
> I now think it was a voltage spike, but it's because the alarm started blaring when I hooked up the comfort batter so I yanked the negative cable back off to turn off the alarm. When that didn't work, I put the negative cable back on so I could shut off the alarm with the key. If I remember correctly, the alarm would not silence with the comfort battery disconnected.
> 
> ...


Let me know if you are willing to either lend or sell me the old controller. 
I need to get to the bottom of my issues. 
I have opened the telescopic wiring the, and inspected quite carefully. I can't find any issues with the wires. 
I'm not saying they are not there, but I've checke (with ohmmeter) all the wires going to the latch, (didn't test the light wires - but the lights all work) and even ran a graph on vcds with a few of the signals.

I'm quite suspicious of the controller. I'd love to test with a good one and at least know what I am up against.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

cbh123 said:


> Let me know if you are willing to either lend or sell me the old controller.
> I need to get to the bottom of my issues.
> I have opened the telescopic wiring the, and inspected quite carefully. I can't find any issues with the wires.
> I'm not saying they are not there, but I've checke (with ohmmeter) all the wires going to the latch, (didn't test the light wires - but the lights all work) and even ran a graph on vcds with a few of the signals.
> ...


I am 99% sure the original is bad. It's a B revision.

The "extra" one I have is brand new and was over $400.00. 

Do you have an error code on controller 46?

Did you ohm all the way to the trunk controller from the connectors in the lid? 

I checked the power wires to the lock unit and the controller and had 12V everywhere. I still had power everywhere on Tuesday and my trunk interior lights worked. 

One if the large power wires was almost snapped in the harness but hadn't broken yet. The broken wires were little .025 mm wires. They were probably signal wires but the technician didn't write down which wires were broken. 

VCDS never showed good status on my latch or the switches. I thought VCDS didn't show my latch position because the controller wasn't adapted. 


My trunk lining and most of my shelf screws are still out. I could swap the original back in just to double check it's 100% dead, but it will have to wait until Monday when I can get the car. 

I am willing to help, but the old one probably won't help you. 

-Eric


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Bindaham said:


> Congratulations Eric,
> 
> I'm still having trunk problems. When I open it from my door or by the key fob it opens and locks then opens again but doesn't go up at all. I have to lift it up manually. When I try to close it, it doesnt go down so I have to close it manually. No codes thrown in the scan.
> 
> ...


Did you try opening it all the way, pressing the remote so the tail lights blink and pressing the close button? (Mini adaptation from earlier in this very thread.)

The lid on my "good" P did that (looked like it was trying to open then changed its mind) after I reconnected the batteries. I did the "mini" adaptation and it worked great.

My trunk lid also got confused once before when I accidentally closed it with the spare tire cover latched open.

-Eric


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

Hello Eric,

Many thanks for all the valuable info you shared. I tried every thing possible with that trunk (I think) from the mini adaptation to the VCSD ons but it seems nothing is working. I lubricated the hinges, nothing!

The signal lights do flash, but there's no mechanical responses there. 

At any rate, I just scanned and this is what I got from the respected address:


Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 3D0-959-933.lbl
Part No: 3D0 959 933 F
Component: 0E HSG 0100 
Coding: 0000040
Shop #: WSC 96626 710 95148
VCID: 3365133451F6D5A6BC-4B00


6 Faults Found:
00927 - Terminal 30 (Right) 
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent

01516 - Terminal 30; Left 
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent

00926 - Terminal 30 
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent

00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

*00318 - Supply Voltage for Rear Lid Control Module 
001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

00317 - Rear Lid Control Module (J605) 
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation*

Regards,


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## robbie-rocket-pants (Mar 25, 2012)

Juhani said:


> I have some pics but dont know how to put them here. Its not easy to replace wiring with contacts there is +25 wires also lights and when you open connections all controllers will go to error and store code, and lock motor need power during movement and you will lose motor pulse count from hall sensor.


To host photos I use http://tinypic.com/- just upload your photo from your PC then it gives you a link to copy and paste here.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Bindaham said:


> Hello Eric,
> 
> Many thanks for all the valuable info you shared. I tried every thing possible with that trunk (I think) from the mini adaptation to the VCSD ons but it seems nothing is working. I lubricated the hinges, nothing!
> 
> ...


Hi, Salah (I hope that is your name.)

My signal lights always worked. 

Your intermittent voltage faults sound like the battery ran down or was disconnected recently. How's the battery doing?

The adaptation fault is the same fault mine had even though I tried adapting each controller (junkyard and new) at least 10 times a piece. 







On the 1st Phaeton, the trunk gradually got worse. The badge switch never worked on it. Also, on that one I could see broken and repaired wires when I opened the cassette. One or two wires were even poking through the sleeve around the wire bundle.

On the 2nd Phaeton, the wire bundle looked perfect from the outside and every wire I checked had continuity. (I didn't check them all, but I did check the power wires because nothing was happening.) When the power wires checked good and VCDS said I had a bad controller, I figured I did have a bad controller. It was bad and I had fried it by removing and replacing the battery cable when the alarm started blaring. If I hadn't fried the controller, I would have suspected the wiring because the 2nd one has about the same mileage as the 1st one.

My diagnosis cost $115.00 USD. I never suspected the wiring because it all worked perfectly before I changed my comfort battery. 

The VW mechanic had to peel back the covering on the top of my tube (there is a sleeve that covers the harness for about 6" above the plastic tube).

I don't know which wires were broken, just that they were small wires - so signal wires of some kind. There were 3 broken wires and 3 with bad insulation. One of the ones with bad insulation was the large (1.5 mm?) yellow/red wire that goes to the latch/motor. It was nearly snapped in two and was holding on by one or two strands of wire. That's one of the wires that was broken on the 1st Phaeton too.

The wires that were broken weren't large enough to be noticeable under the sleeve. (In other words, the wiring bundle with the protective sleeve looked perfectly fine.)

I left the junkyard controller installed in the car when I took it to VW but the new controller was in the trunk if needed. The mechanic fixed the wires with airbag splices. (I need to get the part numbers to order them). They are more flexible than "normal" splices. I used "normal" splices on the 1st one, but the splices are inside the tray and not in an area that flexes.

The trunk worked perfectly. I put the original controller back in and verified it's dead. Fixing the wiring had no effect on it.

The fault on it was:
00317 - Rear Lid Control Module (J605) 
004 - No Signal/Communication

I put the new one in and it worked perfectly but the trunk "sounded" noisier than it had with the junkyard controller. I swapped again and the junkyard controller did make my trunk sound quieter. I put the new controller back in and did a mini adaptation and it worked perfectly again.

So, to summarize:

I fried the original controller by introducing a voltage surge when the alarm went off and I disconnected and reconnected the battery. (I found out later the trunk motion detectors are controlled by the trunk lid controller.) 

The original controller had a fault saying it was bad.

Coincidentally, I played around with the trunk lid enough without battery power that wires happened to break when my controller was bad. I didn't notice any electrical problems because they just picked that time to break (when there was no power to the car).

I could not adapt a junkyard controller, so I bought a brand new one. I couldn't adapt that one either. With both the junkyard and new controllers, the trunk lights came back on. They didn't work with the bad controller. Another thing that started working with both replacement controllers was the trunk open icon on the dashboard. It stayed lit even when the trunk was closed and latched. 

Frustrated, I thought VCDS was not working or I was just doing something wrong so I took it to the dealer. The service advisor said it would be $115.00 to adapt it if nothing else was wrong.

They found bad wires. The service advisor said it would be $300.00 to fix. I told him I was going to wait, but a few minutes later asked if the $300.00 was the total cost and when he said it was, I told him to fix it. 

Now it works perfectly with the junkyard or new controller and neither needed adapting because I had adapted each many, many times.

The new controller is in the car and the junkyard controller is on its way to Bruce.


It helps to have a second set of eyes. They usually ignore what you say and start over from the beginning.

If I had any suspicion the wiring might be bad, I would have torn into it. I "knew" it was good because the @#$%! trunk worked perfectly before I changed batteries.

One time I was helping my brother with his car. I don't remember the problem, but he had a stereo he had installed. Something wasn't working. The first thing I asked him was if his battery connector was tight. He swore it was good, so I was checking everything else. I couldn't find any other problems, but it still wasn't working. He called his neighbor friend who immediately went to the battery and tightened the connector. I should have never listened to the customer (my brother) and troubleshot it from the basics.

I told the service advisor my problems with adapting it and how everything checked good with VCDS but I still couldn't get it to work. He wrote: "Customer states the vehicles trunk will not open with the key fob or the switch on the driver's door."

-Eric


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## Juhani (Sep 15, 2012)

*Damn lid*

OK, so this is wiring without tube,box, and all that. Orginal repaired wiring inside nylon sheet.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Juhani said:


> OK, so this is wiring without tube,box, and all that. Orginal repaired wiring inside nylon sheet.
> http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=15mbeqa&s=9


That looks great. It looks like it will naturally bend when you close the lid.

-Eric


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## Juhani (Sep 15, 2012)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> That looks great. It looks like it will naturally bend when you close the lid.
> 
> -Eric


Yeah, and does not make sharp forced bend, has worked perfectly


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Hi, Salah (I hope that is your name.)
> 
> My signal lights always worked.
> 
> Your intermittent voltage faults sound like the battery ran down or was disconnected recently. How's the battery doing?


Hello Eric,

Yes indeed, Salah is may name. It's an Arabic name, when translated to English it means "*Goodness*" 

I believe the battery is alright, about two years old and the car is driven daily. 

!


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Bindaham said:


> Hello Eric,
> 
> Yes indeed, Salah is may name. It's an Arabic name, when translated to English it means "*Goodness*"
> 
> ...


Your battery is probably fine. I don't drive mine every day, but I pull on the door handle to see if it tells me "Key not found" before I say goodnight to it.

Thanks. I thought it might be Arabic (because you came from Kuwait).

I wasn't sure if it was your name or an Arabic saying that translates to "Give a lot, expect nothing" or both.

My name is German. I have no idea what it translates to. It's also a name in other languages.

-Eric


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## Dr Wood (Jul 1, 2014)

I've become very frustrated with my boot/trunk lid and thought I'd diagnosed it properly but it is still causing problems. My mechanic/tech said he thought it was the wiring harness but as the boot sometimes closed and partially opened I thought it seemed to have full range of movement and wanted to avoid a costly harness replacement.

After inspecting the wiring harness and there being no visible damage I turned my attention to the J605 unit and bought one from a breakers, as soon as I swapped it out the boot/trunk lights came on as per your experience.

I then hit the close button on the lid and the latch moved, second press of the button the lid closed and latched. Press the key fob button and the lid started to raise but stopped about a quarter of the way up. So then I opened it fully, hit the close button and the boot closed. tried to open again with the same result.

My assumption at this point was that the manual "re-training" wouldn't work but the configuration method as described using VAGCOM was required.

As I don't have VAGCOM I took it to my mechanic who said he tried to reconfigure but that it wasn't that and now suspects there's a problem with the latching mechanism. Now the boot will not open or unlock at all from the key fob, if opened manually it will power close and teh latching mechanism is seen to move but it doesn't latch down when the boot closes. To lock the boot I need to raise it an inch then drop it down, to unlock I ned to use the key slot on the badge.

I really can't see that it can be the latching mechanism as it moves position when the lid is fully open which leads me to believe that it does work but is not being controlled correctly which brings me back to the J605 unit.

The guy I take it to has always been very good but I'm starting to wonder if I'm being taken for a ride here. Either misdiagnosis or even worse just trying to earn more cash from me.

I guess I need to get VAGCOM and try and configure myself but that's quite a cost.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi David,

I just posted some diagnostics material in the other major thread about the trunk lid. It may help.

The thread is here:
Broken Sleeve on Electrical Harness leading to Trunk Lid - How to fix - TOC

Chris


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Dr Wood said:


> I then hit the close button on the lid and the latch moved, second press of the button the lid closed and latched. Press the key fob button and the lid started to raise but stopped about a quarter of the way up. So then I opened it fully, hit the close button and the boot closed. tried to open again with the same result.


Your symptoms sound like some wires are broken in the harness. The controller relies on signals from the latch and other do-dads in the lid. 



Dr Wood said:


> I really can't see that it can be the latching mechanism as it moves position when the lid is fully open which leads me to believe that it does work but is not being controlled correctly which brings me back to the J605 unit.


I agree, but I believe it's the wiring. There really aren't any configuration settings in VCDS (VAGCOM) other than resetting the lid controller faults in the comfort controller. I tied changing the degrees in VCDS and it did nothing because my wires were broken. 

I do recommend buying genuine Ross-Tech VCDS, but there isn't any magic boot lid configuration menu or hack in it. You can monitor trunk (boot) lid status but you have already tried the most effective adaptation procedure. 

The latch is called "Lock Unit" in official parlance. The Lock unit contains the latch and the motor to open and close the latch. 
The lid on my Phaeton 8486 was starting to misbehave but I was hoping it would hang on a bit longer. I know that the controller relies on valid signals from the various components in the lid. The last time I closed it electrically, it did not want to re-open even with the key. It took a lot of force turning the key to get the latch to release. After that I unplugged the connector on the latch and took the fuse out. The latch has not given me any trouble since then but I operate it manually. 

I would disconnect the Lock Unit electrically until it's sorted out. 

Others have had to break into their trunks (boots) by breaking out the badge and destroying everything holding the lid closed. 

My theory is that a wire from the microswitch in the latch gets broken and the controller doesn't "know" the lid is closed so it keeps sending the signal to cinch up the latch. I happened to catch mine the first time the controller got confused. I wasn't going to take any more chances with it after reading the threads about breaking into the trunk (boot) if the latch gets jammed. 

Chis posted the Current Flow Diagrams (wiring diagrams) so you can check continuity. 



Dr Wood said:


> After inspecting the wiring harness and there being no visible damage I turned my attention to the J605 unit and bought one from a breakers, as soon as I swapped it out the boot/trunk lights came on as per your experience.


To check the harness physically, you must unwrap the cloth electrical tape and peel back the mesh covering to see the wires themselves. The signal wires are mostly 0.25 - 0.5 mm so you might not even feel if one was broken with the cloth over the harness. Mine had broken wires right where the harness makes a U-turn out of the plastic tube. I am waiting for cold weather to replace the harness on 8486. I replaced the harness on my other Phaeton and it had broken wires in the bend and at the hinge point at the edge of the trunk (boot) opening. 

I would check continuity first. If you don't have the correct terminals, use a sewing needle to probe the female terminals so you don't spread them and cause more problems. 

Good luck and welcome to the club. 

-Eric


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## JAFFAGUY (Sep 17, 2020)

*Boot lid issue*

I have an 07 3.0 tdi. Evry 2 days battery goes flat and I have to open door manually, then start engine by turning key left, then right. Anyway, I assumed this was battery issue as the starter battery was incorrect. So I replaced that. Same problem. So I removed the left battery to to check the suffix on the voltage controller and fould it was a "D", so I put the battery back in and everything worked perfectly. A couple of days later I realised I should have checked the date on the left battery when it was out, so I did it all again. The battery was only 9 months old and charged, so I put it all back in. So now everything works fine except the bootlid. I have done the manual lift, press to open button and then the close button on the lid, several times now, all to no avail. Left it alone for a couple of days and still the same. Stuck now. My local VW dealers run a mile at the mention of a Phaeton! Any help greatly appreciated. BTW, the lights still flash when remote release button pressed, so signal being recieved. It worked perfectly prior to removing left battery the second time and for no more than 10 minutes, so I think the controller is probably fine. HELP.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi, welcome.

This happens to my Phaeton about once a year. I use my VCDS and reset the controller, after which it works for another year.

The symptoms I get are that the lights flash when I try to operate the lid but nothing moves. After the reset (by which I mean clearing the fault code) everything works fine.

There are other faults possible, of course. Trunk lid wiring frayed in the retraction cassette under the lid lining is number one suspect if a reset doesn't help.

Chris


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

JAFFAGUY,

The controller could be taking a break.

I replaced the harness on 7579 and the rear lid decided not to work a few years later after I removed and replaced the left battery. 

I knew for sure the wiring was still good because I hardly ever drive it, and even if I do drive it, I hardly ever open the trunk (boot). 7579 lives in a storage unit. 

Anyhow, it refused to work after several resets using VCDS. I put 7579 back in storage until I had to get it ready for its annual emissions inspection. I reset the rear lid controller one last time "just because" and it decided to work again.

It's more likely that the wiring needs to be repaired or replaced. The lid on 8486 worked perfectly until I replaced the right battery. Then the lid refused to work. I "knew" the wiring was good because the lid worked perfectly the last time I opened it electrically. I spent a month trying to get the dang thing to work again even buying it a new controller $$$$. Long tory snort, I gave up and had the dealer troubleshoot my new rear lid controller. About 20 minutes later the mechanic said it was my wiring. 30 minutes after that it was temporarily repaired.

BTW, if you have VCDS, you can check all controller versions without removing anything.


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## JAFFAGUY (Sep 17, 2020)

*Boot lid issue*

Thanks Chris,
I am awaiting a VCDS, so I will try all that then and post up the result. I am hoping the controller and wiring are fine as it is a low mileage car and serviced about every 5000 miles plus it worked perfectly until I removed the left battery. 
Allan


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## JAFFAGUY (Sep 17, 2020)

*J605 bootlid controller*

Is there any way to test the J605 controller without a VAG-Com. As I don't want to buy a new one unnecessarily as it worked fine before the left battery was replaced. I have tried re-synching to no avail. Here's hoping.
Allan


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

JAFFAGUY said:


> Is there any way to test the J605 controller without a VAG-Com. As I don't want to buy a new one unnecessarily as it worked fine before the left battery was replaced. I have tried re-synching to no avail. Here's hoping.
> Allan


I don't have a generic OBD 2 scanner so I have no idea. 

The J605 isn't even really visible to VCDS (VAG-COM) unless there is a problem because it's a sub controller under the Comfort Controller (address 46). 

When there is a fault with the J605, it's under address 46, not on its own. 

It may trigger a fault with a generic OBD 2 scanner but it would probably be a generic fault and the generic scanner probably wouldn't know what controller it was. 

A new Rear Lid Controller J605 is more expensive than VCDS, even more expensive than the HEX-NET. 

Since most of the time it's the wiring, you could check that relatively inexpensively. 

You can open the cassette that's attached to the lid and peel back the sheath over the harness (loom). The harness makes a 180 degree turn right out of the tube and that's where both of mine had broken wires. The one wire of both Phaetons that was broken is the giant Red wire with a Yellow stripe that carries power to the lock (latch) motor. On both Phaetons there were other tiny wires that were snapped also. 

It's probably in the trunk wiring thread, but I thought the Rear Lid Controller on 8486 was bad because my trunk lid also worked perfectly right before I changed batteries. I may have fried the controller but don't know for sure. I did buy a new controller and it was very expensive. Replacing the controller didn't help. Long story short, it was the wiring.

The rear lid wiring on both of my Phaetons was bad. It's still bad on 8486 but I temporarily repaired the wires I knew were broken so the lights would still work. The lock (latch) is disconnected electrically on it so it won't jam the lid closed. I haven't gotten around to fixing it yet. 

You can also ohm the wiring out. You do need terminals (pins) to keep from spreading the larger female terminals with multimeter leads. If you insert standard multimeter probes into the female terminals, you can spring them. They may or may not make contact in the future if you spread them using a probe larger than the male terminal. That could create an intermittent fault where the lid or rear lights would work some times but not other times. For the smaller female terminals, you need tiny, tiny terminals. I use sewing needles to probe them.

Good luck. 

-Eric


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## JAFFAGUY (Sep 17, 2020)

*Various gremlins*

Everything and I mean everything is no working. How? Isolated the current drain to the auxiliary heater (about 5amps) so pulled the fuse. Disconnected starter battery, hooked up a spare battery to the left battery leads, then disconnected the left battery, charged it to 100% with a proper AGM charger. Reconnected the lot, then everything that wasn't working magically worked now. Gremlins included the following. Bootlid, suspension level, jack up mode, running gear fault plus a few others. The main point is as so many people say. Have a correct AGM battery in the left side, fully charge it and Hey Presto, all will be well. Many, many thanks to all the contributors who have given me many hours of reading and a better understanding of how this lovely but very complex car works. All I need now is to find a working auxiliary heater and the time to fit it. 
Allan


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