# ABA Turbo Build/ Running Issues



## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*ABA Turbo Running Terribly*

Before I get to the problem here is the setup... 
-84 Rabbit
-94 ABA block, OBD1
-T03/04e Turbo
-dual port internal wastegate, http://www.geocities.com/motor...r.htm
-2 1/2" intake piping
-k&n filter
-c2 billet 70mm MAF housing.
-2" intercooler piping
-fmic
-Knockoff Greddy type RS BOV converted to a diverter valve, full soft setting on BOV. 
-Bosch 42# injectors,
-c2 42# software,
-Billet Head Gasket Spacer (lowers the comp by 1 I believe)
-standard 84 Rabbit fuel pump (CIS I think is the correct term). 
-2 1/2" downpipe, w/ 02 sensor welded in,
-2 1/2" exhaust
AC Delco #9 Plugs gapped to approx. .024 (apparently these are the NGK BKR 7E equivalent) 
-manual boost controller
anything else is factory for instance fpr, fuel rail, head, cam, valves, etc.
The car starts and idles beautifully, no issues at all there. Once you give the car some throttle it hesitates and runs rough. When I drive it it is smooth through the lower RPM range till between 1500-3000 RPMs, then it shudders and runs really rough. Under hard acceleration through the gears or if I get on a highway and get into about 4th and even 5th and really pull the car will pull and boost nicely/ smoothly at 10psi. It just seems to have problems when I try to drive it with constant throttle or just cruise. My intake piping is connected and tight from what I can tell. and the d.v. setup is working properly.
Does anyone have any ideas why the motor hates to be driven anything but really hard?









_Modified by wide_mk1 at 7:58 PM 8-11-2008_

_Modified by wide_mk1 at 8:03 PM 8-11-2008_


_Modified by wide_mk1 at 3:45 PM 10-31-2008_


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: ABA Turbo Build/ Running Issues (wide_mk1)*

Here is a picture of the bay just to get an idea of whats going on.... 











_Modified by wide_mk1 at 8:05 PM 8-11-2008_


_Modified by wide_mk1 at 8:06 PM 8-11-2008_


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## crashnburn987 (May 11, 2004)

*Re: ABA Turbo Build/ Running Issues (wide_mk1)*

your ISV isnt hooked up into the boost pipe. Your going to lose lots of metered air out of the little breather you have (2nd pic)


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: ABA Turbo Build/ Running Issues (wide_mk1)*

Update: ISV is hooked up to intercooler piping, car runs better but still not right, *see first post


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## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

*Re: ABA Turbo Build/ Running Issues (wide_mk1)*

your bov/dv is rerouted after the maf correct? its kinda hard to see where it loops to


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: ABA Turbo Build/ Running Issues (2pt. slo)*

yes sir, intake order goes 
1.filter 
2.connected to maf housing 
3.almost a foot of pipe, then the d.v. connects to a bend that actually protrudes into the intake piping and blows the diverted air towards the turbo (i was told by chris at c2 to do this so the maf can more accurately measure the suction the diverted air would create in the intake)
4.then there is about another foot of piping and the 180* bend then turbo


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## Agtronic (May 14, 2001)

*Re: ABA Turbo Build/ Running Issues (wide_mk1)*

I'm guessing you don't have a wideband on the car? It would be helpful to know what your A/F is when you have the symptoms. Even if you have just a narrow-band, try and see if it's running rich or lean when this happens, and report back.


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: ABA Turbo Build/ Running Issues (Agtronic)*

Quite true, I am going to invest in one within the next few days to get more information on how the car is running. Do you have a brand or model that you might recommend for use in an ABA application that would be in a moderate price range and would get the job done well?


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## 84SciroccoX-FLOW (Dec 3, 2006)

is it me or should there be a check valve on the hose going to the brake booster?....


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: (84SciroccoX-FLOW)*

*update, i pulled out that stupid ac delco plugs and put in some ngk bkr7e's gapped to .024....car runs the same....shuddering and spuddering at any constant rpm....still tachs up smooth in neutral till about 4k then it breaks up.....still can pull hard on the road but cant drive smooth at a constant throttle without shuddering and breaking up.....the plugs that came out are black on one side, white on the other....a few have some tanish coloration around the electrode but they dont look like they are burning good.....also while pulling hard on the highway between shifts i am getting some pretty loud turbo flutter, i checked that the bov was blowing off and it is....not sure what that is about
to 84sciroccox-flow....a check valve....what would that tie into/ what would it serve to improve....right now as you can see i am running straight line from the manifold to the brake booster....
thanks for the responses everyone, i am on such a mission to get this thing right its insane....been working on it since february


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## Agtronic (May 14, 2001)

*Re: (wide_mk1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wide_mk1* »_to 84sciroccox-flow....a check valve....what would that tie into/ what would it serve to improve....right now as you can see i am running straight line from the manifold to the brake booster....

That won't affect driveability, you simply don't have power brakes when you're in boost, and it takes a few seconds of vacuum before the booster functions as it should. No big deal ...
If you say your plugs are black and full of soot, there's a good chance you're running rich. But it's hard to tell if that rich condition is while you are getting the stuttering or whether it's the result of a rich idle. The best way to read plugs is to shut the motor down while you're boosting. (It's not something I like to do personally).
Be patient, you'll get it and it'll all be worth it!


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## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

*Re: (Agtronic)*

the turbo flutter sound is probably compressor surge....but that shouldnt have anything to do with it breaking up....hows your coilpack look?


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## crashnburn987 (May 11, 2004)

*Re: ABA Turbo Build/ Running Issues (wide_mk1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wide_mk1* »_Quite true, I am going to invest in one within the next few days to get more information on how the car is running. Do you have a brand or model that you might recommend for use in an ABA application that would be in a moderate price range and would get the job done well?

I use the Innovative Motorsports LC-1 wideband. Its about $200 and its great and gets the job done. I actually had an issue with mine awhile back and they repaired it free of charge and within a week.
http://www.innovatemotorsports...1.php
As for your runability issues, does your boost gauge read vacuum as well? If your having issues while the car is not in boost, it could be a "suck" problem instead of a "blow" problem.










_Modified by crashnburn987 at 4:34 PM 8-13-2008_


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: ABA Turbo Build/ Running Issues (crashnburn987)*

update*
i have a buddy that is going to give me a air fuel gauge, a simple one that taps into factory o2 sensor so i can get an idea of what im running like for now till i get a wideband


_Quote, originally posted by *crashnburn987* »_
As for your runability issues, does your boost gauge read vacuum as well? If your having issues while the car is not in boost, it could be a "suck" problem instead of a "blow" problem.










_Modified by crashnburn987 at 4:34 PM 8-13-2008_

oh its a suck problem alright,








but in all seriousness the gauge does read vacuum and most, if not all the problems occur when the car is in vacuum....when driving the car it only smooths out once the gauge zeros and then reads boost.....when taching up in neutral the needle is somewhat smooth but when holding the throttle at a constant rpm the needle jumps about +1...-1,-2 etc
is this something i made up or do the c2 chips really rely on the o2 sensor for a lot of information because i did have a wire trauma some time back, bought a brand new bosch sensor, spliced the wires back together according to the bentley manual, but if somehow i screwed that up, could that potentially cause the prob? i ask only because when the car was n/a i drove without the o2 for months with no issues at all
to 2pt slo 
the coilpack looks alright, it was functioning fine before i took everything out so i somewhat doubt the problem lies there....i'll look into that next after i get the air/ fuel gauge
as always thanks for your input friends, you are all keeping my spirit alive, haha


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## The Rice Cooker (Jan 13, 2004)

Simply because my car needed to be moved it was rushed and the O2 sensor still had the A/f gauge wired into the stock O2 sensor. The car made it home, but the symptons were very similar to what you are describing. C2 specifically says in the little instructions that come with the chip that you cannot have anything spliced into the wires that go to your o2 sensor. I went and got a brand new o2 sensor a couple days later when the parts place was open. Plugged it in and the car was happy. So my point was your O2 sensor might be bad or the splice may be a problem, but i do feel that C2 software is very sensitive, but it handles it's business if all systems are go. My 2 cents on the issue.


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: (The Rice Cooker)*

i had a feeling that there could be problems in that area....today while im a t work im going to check and recheck the bentley, redraw the wire color scheme vs pin location on ecu and ill unwrap the harness enough to check the length of the run from the ecu to the sensor....hopefully we'll see if that improves anything....
....last night i ran the car with the sensor plugged in and i also ran it unplugged......no running changes at all, that leads me to believe that there is an issue there


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## crashnburn987 (May 11, 2004)

*Re: (wide_mk1)*

Good point about the 02 splice. If you think about it, a narrowband sensor only produces a signal reading to the ECU between 0 - 1 volt. If you have something piggybacking off of that signal wire, it could definitely be causing issues. 
Hope you get this worked out. Hang in there man and keep us posted.


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: (crashnburn987)*

....thanks for the kind words....as i type this i am standing on my sales floor with a big ass, greasy, smelly bentley manual and paper writing out the wiring diagram and components for the o2....customers are looking at me somewhat funny, haha


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## mveitenheimer (Sep 1, 2007)

*Re: (wide_mk1)*

even if your o2 did have a problem with it... you shouldn't be seeing the problems you are describing... have you checked for all vacuum sources for leaks and what not... and on top of that you really need a wideband this problem is hard do diagnose with out a afr to go by we need to know afr's alongside rpm's and afr with this problem when it is happening... first thing i would check it your vac going to your fpr though also this probably has nothing to do with it but have you double checked your timing>?


_Modified by mveitenheimer at 12:28 AM 8-15-2008_


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: (mveitenheimer)*

well i tested the o2 sensor extensively last night according to the bentley....i also unwrapped the harness to check for consistency of connections from the sensor to the ecm....there are 4 pins on the plug for the o2, the signal connections are correct (pins 3 and 4) from the sensor to the ecm
....to test the sensor signal output the manual says to ground the negative prong on a voltmeter to the car and connect the positve lead to pin 4, the reading should be between .3-1.0 volts continuously variable with the engine running, i did get this reading, .34-.45 and all between
pin 1 and 2 on the plug for the sensor coming from the harness are both grounds according to the bentley wiring diagram (1 ground is on the engine block, the other is in the harness itself) 
the resistance of pin 1 and 2 on the sensor side should be about 2 ohms, i got a reading of about 3.1....its a brand new bosch sensor, i continued testing to see if there were any other abnormalities
this is where it gets weird...
to test the sensor for power it says to jump from prong 1 to prong 2 on the harness side and check for "battery power" (im assuming 13volts) with the engine running....i got no such reading from jumping those pins, just a big 0....any thoughts?


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: (wide_mk1)*

lunchtime bump


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## tommyjunior (Apr 2, 2004)

*Re: (wide_mk1)*

I think your time will be better spent hunting down vacuum leaks. The 02 sensor most likely would cause problems across the entire rpm range, not just during light loads.


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## mveitenheimer (Sep 1, 2007)

*Re: (tommyjunior)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tommyjunior* »_I think your time will be better spent hunting down vacuum leaks. The 02 sensor most likely would cause problems across the entire rpm range, not just during light loads. 
 run with your o2 unplugged but I still think it's not your problem like I said earlier look for leaks


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: (mveitenheimer)*

ill be busting out the soapy water tomorrow looking for leaks....squeeeeeeky clean, wooo hoooo


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## mveitenheimer (Sep 1, 2007)

*Re: (wide_mk1)*

also have you checked your maf?


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: (mveitenheimer)*

yes sir....car runs terrrrrrrrrible without it....much worse than with it....leads me to believe that it is functioning properly....
....on a little side note, i found a [email protected]#m stress crack on my exhaust manifold today about a quarter inch long....dunno if this could be the root of all the problems but i am gonna fix that asap


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: (wide_mk1)*

just need to get some gas for the welder and ill fix this monster...woo hoo....im not gonna get my hopes up that it will fix the problem tho, haha


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## crashnburn987 (May 11, 2004)

*Re: (wide_mk1)*

Any luck finding vacuum leaks? I thought the soapy water only worked for boost leaks?
You can always give this a try, never done it myself, sounds kind of ghetto...
"A faster technique for finding intake manifold vacuum leaks is to get a bottle of propane and attach a length of rubber hose to the gas valve. Open the valve so you have a steady flow of gas. Then hold the hose near suspected leak points while the engine is idling. If there is a leak, propane will be siphoned in through the leak. The resulting "correction" in the engine's air/fuel ratio should cause a noticeable change in idle speed and/or smoothness (Note: on engines with computerized idle speed control, disconnect the idle speed control motor first).
Aerosol carburetor cleaner can also be used the same way. CAUTION: Solvent is extremely flammable, so do not smoke or use it if there are any sparks in the vicinity (arcing plug wires, for example). Spray the solvent on suspected leak points while the engine is idling. If there is a leak, the solvent will be drawn into the engine and have the same effect as the propane. The idle speed will suddenly change and smooth out."


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: (crashnburn987)*

update*
I tried the carb cleaner idea to check to vacuum leaks. I sprayed a small amount into the air filter to get a feel for how the idle would change if i did find a leak....it drops slightly then comes back...i sprayed the intake manifold, as well as all the silicone couplers and intercooler piping and got no response from the motor or the idle.....lame....
also i hooked up a narrowband to the o2 just to see if it was functioning....i did get readings and for arguments sake i took the car for a spin with the gauge to see what i got....
initial startup at idle the car is perfectly optimal, car fluctuates slightly when i was giving it a tiny bit of throttle to get it out of the driveway....took it through the gears slowly, shuddering and bucking all the way....still optimal fuel air....i pulled through the rpm range in 2nd, and 3rd, mix got richer and richer the harder it pulled....comming off the pull to idle the mix got very lean and stayed there till i gave some throttle to get the car moving again then the mix was all over the place but still optimal....all the way from the highest to lowest point in that range....did another pull, 2nd, 3rd, some 4th, same rich running, clutch in to idle, same lean running.....any time i bring the rpms up slightly at a constant point (where the shuddering occurs) the mix is nearly perfect, wtf, haha
i got the car home and pulled a plug from cyl. 4, this is what it looks like...








rich much? 

at least i got one good thing from this evening....my o2 sensor seems to be working
anyone have any ideas as far as plug gapping, etc, that i might try? as always thanks for your input


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## crashnburn987 (May 11, 2004)

*Re: (wide_mk1)*

Sounds like your ECU is in limp mode. Basically dumping tons of fuel into the engine so you don't blow anything up. When you get on it, the turbo loves this extra fuel, so that's maybe why you feel it runs better...
Are you running the ABA ECU or standalone? Do you still have the VAG-COM port? At this point, you probably want to talk to the ECU to figure out what its complaining about.


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: (crashnburn987)*

its the ABA ecu with the c2 software for the injectors i am running, i dont have the plugs to diagnose any codes tho, those got x'd when i did the swap into the rabbit years ago....is there a process to reset or clear codes on the computer so it will start from normal running mode again?


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: (wide_mk1)*

....bump @ work


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## crashnburn987 (May 11, 2004)

*Re: (wide_mk1)*

I don't think there is a way to reset anything without the port.








You might want to ask in the 2.0L Forum what exactly are the big causes for the ABA to go into limp mode. Off the top of my head I know if the knock sensors are picking up detonation/knock the ECU will go into limp mode. There are a bunch of smart guys over there, maybe they can give you some more areas to look at. 
Then again, I'm not sure with the inclusion of the C2 chip, if there even is a limp mode anymore....










_Modified by crashnburn987 at 10:32 AM 8-20-2008_


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: (crashnburn987)*

so i checked my cam position to make sure it was correct since i did have the head off the block to install the spacer.....and i am running out of ridiculous things to check and test....that was perfect, butttt.....

....i was under the car and saw the my exhaust manifold had 2, massive stress cracks in it and it wasnt seating properly because the bottom of the manifold was hitting the spacer.....took it all out, took it to get welded, new gaskets, grinded out a space for the head gasket spacer, installed....same problem (the car is much quieter tho







)....
.... stoich idle, moving at idle the car is stoich, bring rpms up, car breaks up, under a load or harder acceleration car pulls great and gets a tad on the rich side (which i think is normal for c2 software, any input?) after a pull tho to idle the mix is alllllllll overrrrrrr the place, rich to lean and everywhere between....bringing the rpms up after the puts the mix all over the place too, till you do another pull then it gets tad rich a pulls like a freight train....
f*** my life








im gonna check plug and coil wires, maybe swap them out (they are almost new bosch wires) and ill play with the plug gap, see if i can get it running any better, its just so weird that it runs like garbage in the middle of the rpm range, not top, not bottom, middle, sheesh


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## nthndetty (May 10, 2006)

*Re: (wide_mk1)*

stock fpr. why?


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: (nthndetty)*

according to matt @ c2 the chip i am using is written for use with the stock fpr


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: (wide_mk1)*

so just for arguments sake, what kind of gap is anyone with this or a similar type of setup running? is there a possibility that the knock sensor is causing some issues (dumping fuel) in the middle rpm range?
...the bay as it sits 









...the car as it sits....dirty as hell....








i have been playing with sparkplug gaps this morning and gotten some positive results, i went down to .022 last night and it was running rough as hell in the mid....opening it up to .025 smooths it out some.....030 misses up top...im gonna try in between that and see what kind of results i get....i test for vacuum leaks almost every day and i get no signs of any....driving under a load the mix gets richer as the rpms get higher, cut the throttle and the mix immediately gets very very lean....touch the throttle and the mix shoots right back to very rich....idle is still all over the place for about a minute till it finds optimal and settles, then it starts all over again when you drive it....
i had to swap the ecu from another car because i inadvertently fried mine, could this be causing a problem ex: ecu having to "learn" different TPS information/ sensor/ any other sensors (the ecu was from the same year motor, still OBD I)...just throwing it out there 
i tried a different coil to distributor wire from my brothers gli (that wire was originally on my car) and got no change....
as always im open to suggestions including the possibility of demonic possession and those of the supernatural type, haha
thanks again for checking the thread and your comments










_Modified by wide_mk1 at 2:43 PM 8-23-2008_


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: (wide_mk1)*

....plug condition after couple pulls @ .026









....oh and i was about to max the needle rich in a 4th gear pull










_Modified by wide_mk1 at 2:47 PM 8-23-2008_


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## tommyjunior (Apr 2, 2004)

*Re: (wide_mk1)*

I think it's time for you to start questioning the software. What you are describing is bad fuel mapping, I'm not saying C2 does a bad job, I'm saying that a mistake could have been made. Theres a lot of code in writing software so it's possible. Have you tried asking them to write you a new chip?
Nice car by the way, my ABA mK2 should be up and running this week then it's turbo time!


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: (tommyjunior)*

im going to try a new coil pack tomorrow just to make sure my problem doesn't lie there then i am going to give those fellas a call, see about them checking the chip/ testing my computer to see what codes its throwing (since i have no way of knowing without VAG-COM)
thanks btw, best of luck to you getting your car up and going....you rocking a gti or a jetta? my brother has a 92 gli and im hooooping my car is drivable in time to enjoy some rice eating cruises before the weather gets too crappy


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## tommyjunior (Apr 2, 2004)

*Re: (wide_mk1)*

Golf, cl I guess? It's the base model, no pwr anything, but no rust. Got it for free, too.
























I'll get some updated pics, it's almost done, 5 lug swap, plus susp., 94 aba with a few goodies(cams, lw flywheel,blah,blah,blah).


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: (tommyjunior)*

awesome, g.l. with it....
.... as a matter of fact,i have a set of 4 bbs rz wheels (corrado factory wheels) that i recently repainted factory silver, and got the factory bbs centercaps for, etc, 5x100 lugs if you are interested


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: (wide_mk1)*

i wired in an aftermarket tach.
the shuddering happens at any rpm at or above 2000
is it weird that at exactly that rpm i am running into problems?
could software be to blame?
....i want to go to h2o


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## nothing-leaves-stock (Mar 1, 2005)

*Re: (wide_mk1)*

few questions to recap if i may...
-this car DID run on the stock aba correct?
-then you did a head spacer and turbo
-left stock mk1 fueling and hooked it up to aba fueling, 
-C2 software..42 injectors, correct maf housing? NEW? *from them*?
-piping is all sealed?
-maf facing the correct way?
-try a NEW o2 sensor?

-the last plug picture...WHY is there a bunch of marks on the grounding tab?? hammering on it or is the detination? do youhear pinging? 
is your timing dead set on?
-we always use NGK bkr7e's gapped at .024.


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: (nothing-leaves-stock)*

-the car ran perfectly before i started the build
-head spacer was added, turbo, etc.
-the car is running off the mk1 fuel pump connected to the aba rail
-i bought the c2 fueling kit which included the 42 injectors, their software, their billet maf housing
-ive tested for vacuum leaks pretty extensively and found nothing
-i honestly did not know the maf was directional but i believe i put it in the way it came out, is there a direction indicator on it?
-the o2 sensor is a brand new bosch unit
-the marks on the grounding tab are probably from gapping and regapping
-dont really hear pinging, just sputtering like its getting too much fuel
-the timing is dead on when comparing the cam notch to the plastic cover, to the clutch plate to the transmission housing
-the plugs are bkr7e's gapped to about .024-.025 last time i gapped them 
-fueling doesn't really seem to be an issue as per my conversation with chris @c2 because the car pulls like crazy up top and the narrowband says the car runs super rich under a load/ boost
thanks for taking a look at this josh, you are certainly the champ. your experience is greatly appreciated


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## nothing-leaves-stock (Mar 1, 2005)

*Re: (wide_mk1)*

no worries....and thank you for the kind words








hmmmmm....let me look into this a bit and try to get back to you.
we have done a ton of aba turbo swaps and never ran into this.
i'll see what i can dig up...







josh


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## Chr1zMK2 (Oct 20, 2006)

*Re: (wide_mk1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wide_mk1* »_update*
I tried the carb cleaner idea to check to vacuum leaks. I sprayed a small amount into the air filter to get a feel for how the idle would change if i did find a leak....it drops slightly then comes back...i sprayed the intake manifold, as well as all the silicone couplers and intercooler piping and got no response from the motor or the idle.....lame....
also i hooked up a narrowband to the o2 just to see if it was functioning....i did get readings and for arguments sake i took the car for a spin with the gauge to see what i got....
initial startup at idle the car is perfectly optimal, car fluctuates slightly when i was giving it a tiny bit of throttle to get it out of the driveway....took it through the gears slowly, shuddering and bucking all the way....still optimal fuel air....i pulled through the rpm range in 2nd, and 3rd, mix got richer and richer the harder it pulled....comming off the pull to idle the mix got very lean and stayed there till i gave some throttle to get the car moving again then the mix was all over the place but still optimal....all the way from the highest to lowest point in that range....did another pull, 2nd, 3rd, some 4th, same rich running, clutch in to idle, same lean running.....any time i bring the rpms up slightly at a constant point (where the shuddering occurs) the mix is nearly perfect, wtf, haha
i got the car home and pulled a plug from cyl. 4, this is what it looks like...








rich much? 

at least i got one good thing from this evening....my o2 sensor seems to be working
anyone have any ideas as far as plug gapping, etc, that i might try? as always thanks for your input


you posted in my last post, i took my plug out and it looks exactly like yours


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## Chr1zMK2 (Oct 20, 2006)

*Re: (Chr1zMK2)*

I have basically almost a identical setup as you, i didnt have the bucking problem at first untill i over boosted and the car fell on its face one time.


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## OLD-GTI (Jul 19, 2001)

*Re: (Chr1zMK2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Chr1zMK2* »_I have basically almost a identical setup as you, i didnt have the bucking problem at first untill i over boosted and the car fell on its face one time.

That's what is happening to mine when I jump in to boost....at about 15lbs it breaks up, and then just stumbles for a while. It corrects itself after a few seconds, but I too am running out of stupid things to check.


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: (OLD-GTI)*

I've been working on it folks!!!! I've seen a lot of intakes on ABA-T setups and absolutely none of them look like mine, i think mine is too long, maybe causing some weird MAF readings, I'm going to re-do it before tonight, maybe fab up so piping, make it much shorter. Anyone going to be at Show and Go at Englishtown Sunday? Ill get the car there no matter what, last and only show ill get to this season, haha.


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## crashnburn987 (May 11, 2004)

*Re: (wide_mk1)*

damn man you had no luck figuring this out?








I'll keep praying for ya. I was out of ideas for ya months ago.


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: (crashnburn987)*

a couple beers.....an enormous amount of anger....a huge set of channel lock pliers....what does it all mean?
it means that you can un-sieze your distributor from the block(with an enormous amount of force and metal shavings as a result)....advance your timing....and then have an evo eating rabbit that is smooth and brutal....sweet
thanks everyone for all your input!!!!!
JOSH AT NLS IS THE CHAMPION!!!!
CHRIS AND MATT AT C2, CHAMPIONS!!!!
thanks again!


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## xcracer87 (Aug 15, 2004)

How much did you advance your timing?


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## nothing-leaves-stock (Mar 1, 2005)

*Re: (wide_mk1)*

so all is well now?!
glad i could help in anyways!

let me know if theres anything else!


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: (nothing-leaves-stock)*

to xcracer87...
i'm not sure exactly how much i advanced it, but i would say almost a quarter turn, i advanced it till i was getting some pre ignition, then i backed it off to the point where it would run smooth throughout the rpm range without stumbling....i've never changed the timing but i was doing spark tests prior, and there were points where spark to cyl 4 would literally stop....i changed the cap, wire, plug, coil, nothing changed....at that point i decided to change the distributor which i knew from prior attempts was seized into the block. i beasted it around a bit and broke it loose ...(i basically didn't care if i broke it, it was really in there)...adjusted it, and voila!
to josh,
The car is awesome! totally smooth beyond belief, the power is so linear, its like driving a factory car, I'll bring it by your place one day i feel like cruising out there
i know i'm going to be needing a transmission soon...i am anticipating differential death, no matter how much i baby the car...do you do or recommend anyone who is killer at building 020's (LSD, Gears, syncros, etc)


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## jungletwin (May 15, 2008)

*Re: (Chr1zMK2)*

I just recently did an ABA turbo build it all ran great until I tried to really see what it could do and raced a mustang 5.0L shifted in to second and hit the rev limiter and has been running the way you explained still trying to figure it all out


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## wide_mk1 (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: (jungletwin)*

...hope you wrecked that 5.0 = )
since you tapped sky high rpm's you probably tapped some serious boost as well and perhaps shook a pipe clamp loose or created a vacuum leak somewhere....check for vacuum leaks and such...keep me posted, i was dealing with issues for about 5 months till i got it right so i've tried many a trick, haha
...i need a clutch but i am totally unenthusiastic to do one...the only thing that will drive me to do it is thought of evo and sti headlights in my rearview = )


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## [email protected] (Jun 7, 2004)

*Re: (wide_mk1)*

Glad to see this thing is out there burning up some tires! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## platun4 (Sep 23, 2008)

How did you installed dash fittings on stock fuel rail? 
Im doing very similar build and should be road testing my rabbit hopefully by this weekend.
Got 2.5 i/c piping 2.5 i/c vr6 TB vr6 injectors vr6 MAF housing 034 adjustable FPR, turbonetics T3 turbo with 63 A/R (don't remember trim think it was like 57), 3" downpipe and 2.5 downpipe back, no CAT no EGR no SAI no EVAP :facepalm: , dynomax super turbo muffler ( i think Ill swap that to magnaflow glass packs later idk) 38 tial with .8 bar spring, forge MBC, stock 1.8 DV, PP head with big valves and 272 cam and PP bottom intake manifold  and after all that stock ecu :banghead:
I think that all, oh and yes next project is to install my 16gal fuel cell with Aeromotive Tsunami and their high flow filter.
All my friends tell me that I am crazy:screwy:
Any one have an idea what will be my approximately # @ the wheels with 10 psi stock ecu? I really don't want to buy a chip because I plan to pick up megasquirt in few months.


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