# Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ



## 130_R (May 24, 2001)

OK, you guys have been wanting it, so here it is. First a few ground rules:
1. Post technical info only
2. Do not post questions, they will deleted without noticifcation or explination
3. Do not answer question, they will be deleted without notification or expliantion
4. If you do not have any technical help to add, then do not add anything (stupid remarks will result in an automatic 10 point deduction)
let the fun begin


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## ST33LR4T (Dec 2, 2001)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (130_R)*

Great book for learning about turbochargers.
Maximum Boost 
Author: Corky Bell 
Paperback: 256 pages ; Dimensions (in inches): 0.63 x 10.32 x 7.92 
Publisher: Bentley Publishers; (April 2003) 
ISBN: 0837601606 
You will find information on the following: - Sizing the turbo, intercooling, fuel system tweaks, preparing the engine, intake and exhaust design- Evaluating and installing an aftermarket turbo kit- Improving your current turbocharged system- Designing and installing your own custom system- Whether you’re interested in better performance on the road or extra horsepower to be a winner. This book will give you the knowledge to get the most out of your engine and its turbocharging system.



_Modified by ST33LR4T at 1:47 PM 11-2-2003_


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## ST33LR4T (Dec 2, 2001)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (ST33LR4T)*

Turbo Related Calculators.


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## AdidasCU (Jul 24, 2001)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (130_R)*

This is all CIS info...
Frequency Valve, Terminal 11 (good info, but not many peeps use the method)
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=472090
Volvo FD vs. Mercedes FD
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=489503
Volvo FD, testing with different extra fuel methods.. (great setup and tech info here 3 pages!)
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=751684
WUR's (Testing and confirmation that boost signal is too go to the LARGE port on the side)
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=635593
That's it for now... the search has LOTS of info on these topics, so if you need more specific info, that's the way to go!


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## Agtronic (May 14, 2001)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (130_R)*

*ACRONYMS*
FI : Forced Induction
FMIC : Front-Mount InterCooler
IC : InterCooler
FPR : Fuel Pressure Regulator
FMU : Fuel Management Unit
BOV : Blow Off Valve
DV : Diverter Valve
MAF : Mass Air Flow sensor
MAP : Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor (Also a word to describe a table of values, such as an ignition map)
CR : Compression Ratio
DP : Down Pipe
WG : Waste Gate
A/A : Air to Air Intercooler
A/W : Air to Water Intercooler


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## Angular (Mar 12, 2002)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (Agtronic)*

A few more acronyms:
WHP : Wheel Horsepower as read by a dyno
BHP : Brake Horsepower (basically the same as crank HP)
WTQ : Wheel Torque
AFR : Air Fuel Ratio
WB or WBO2 : Wideband Oxygen Sensor
SMIC : Side Mount Intercooler
W/I : Water Injection
EMS: Engine Management System (usually aftermarket programmable)
VR: Variable Reluctance (crank sensor) or short for VR6
RTFM: Read the F'in Manual


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## Holy Piston (Oct 24, 2003)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (Angular)*

Turbo vs. SC?? Since this question is asked atleast once a month I will try to address it. The various super charger kits vavailable for the VW range from kits offered by Neuspeed,Eurotech,AMS,VF-engineering,Z-engineering,and others out there,and they are usually a simple bolt on,and most include some sort of engine management(chip) to make it possible to run your stock injectors/fuel injection systems,so these will be the easiest to install,tune,and get running right and it is very easy to return the car back to stock afterwards if you want to sell the car or SC,etc.So basically if you want basic,simple bolt on power and don't want to open up your motor,then SC is the way to go,and some guys have gone all out and made intercooled SC cars and I saw one guy on here making 280+ @ the wheels with his VR6 SC setup,but mostly expect under 200hp for 4 cyl(unless you try the lysholm,and that is another topic completely,different types of SC's)and 6cyl,220-280whp is my guess. Turbo's on the other hand can range from the bolt on kit and running low boost(5-8psi)on stock compression,to the extreme turbo car with built motor and stand alone enguine management,and custom tuning .The beauty of the turbo car is it has a wider range of "expandability"wher you can add things to increase your boost level/hp at a later date,so you are never "stuck" with your power level,but to push it to that level requires more $$ than you have already spent and a commitment to try to do it right and sensible modifications and reasonable expectations out of your setup.Some are fortunate to live next to a honest tuner that can build you your dream car,but if you are not one of those lucky people,then you may have to do it yourself,and I highly recommend you be highly proficient in mechanics and understanding of internal combustion engines or you may end up living the "bad side' of turbo ownwership,where the bad things people say about turbo cars come true,like having your car not driving fore months at a time,and not running right when it does,and abandoning half finished projects before the are done. But don't let me scare you,if you do it right,turbocharged cars are the most rewarding car to drive when you are making power and reliability at the same time,it is basically this"YOU GET OUT WHAT YOU PUT INTO IT"with turbo cars,so be ready and commited to spending more time and $$ to fulfill your turbo dreams than your supercharger dreams.................


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## 00ZERO (Apr 27, 2001)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (130_R)*

this is a good site for engine dimentions and figuring out compression of hybrid engines (16v aba)http://not2fast.wryday.com/vw/...shtml


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## nater (Apr 10, 2000)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (00ZERO)*

From my website...but property of VF-Engineering:
Detailed pics for installing your VF-Engineering Supercharger 
Later,


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## 2kjettaguy (Dec 24, 2000)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (nater)*

I've been asked to post my threads from my mk4 2.0 turbo experience. 
*
Starting my turbo project 
Blowing up my motor 
Realizing all my problems were a bad set of injectors 
170whp/198wtq 
Building a short runner intake manifold 
205whp / 246wtq dyno*


_Modified by 2kjettaguy at 8:54 PM 12-9-2003_


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (2kjettaguy)*

16vABA HOW TO:
http://forum.vwsport.com/viewtopic.php?t=445
this is asked sooooo often.
200HP the cheapest, easiest, and best of all PROVEN way:
http://forum.vwsport.com/viewtopic.php?t=33


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## Quiz (Sep 13, 2002)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (speed51133!)*











_Modified by Quiz at 12:21 PM 2-26-2004_


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## Angular (Mar 12, 2002)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (130_R)*

I highly recommend following this procedure. You may be surprised to find parasitic boost leaks you had no idea existed. 
*Q: How do I pressure test my intake system for boost leaks?*
A: Construct a "air compressor to turbo inlet adapter" using a PVC coupler, PVC end caps, and other misc hardware from a place like Home Depot. This will fit onto your turbo compressor inlet and allow you to pressurize the intake. Drill a hole in the PVC end cap and thread in a 1/4 male quick-connect fitting that your air hose will attach to. If it doesn't fit tightly (air tight!), use some 5 minute epoxy on the threads. Purchase an adjustable air pressure regulator from Sears for $35 if your air compressor doesn't already have one. Attach the adapter to your turbo inlet. Dial the air pressure down to ZERO and connect it to your adapter. Remove the oil filler cap as air will usually sneak past the TB and ultimately need to escape from the crankcase. Slow increase the air pressure to 10 PSI and *listen for leaks* (you will hear them if they are there). If you hear a leak feel around with your hand to verify where the air is coming from.
Note: This technique is basically the same as AWE Tuning's FAQ on how to pressure test the Audi 2.7T intake system, except for single turbo applications you connect the air source directly to the turbo compressor inlet.
http://www.awe-tuning.com/medi...r.pdf



_Modified by Angular at 6:09 PM 11-5-2003_


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## BlkVentoTurbo (Oct 15, 2002)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (Angular)*

here is a great link to understanding turbocharging in genral 
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm 
have fun!!!


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## Spinyfrog (Jan 29, 2003)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (130_R)*

Excellent site for Tuning info, most of it applies to EFI systems in general, not SDS-specific
http://www.sdsefi.com/tech.html


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## Agtronic (May 14, 2001)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (130_R)*

Very informative article on breaking-in a freshly-built performance engine :
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


_Modified by Agtronic at 1:26 AM 6-1-2004_


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## Jefnes3 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (130_R)*

Injector sizing:
These are for the Mk3 cars, BOTH VR6 and 2L
but the general philosophy can be applied to ANY car.
This is for NON FMU application. This is NO guarantee that you WILL
make these hp numbers just that you can support it.
Note: HP calcs assume .55 BSFC and 85% duty for REFERENCE only, and the boost
is 'close' to where you'll need to be.
Stock inj. size: 19#/hr 
6cyl: 176whp 4cyl: 117whp
~8psi of boost: 30#/hr
6cyl: 278whp 4cyl: 185whp
~12psi of boost: 36#/hr
6cyl: 333whp 4cyl: 222whp
~16psi of boost: 42#/hr
6cyl: 389whp 4cyl: 260whp
~20psi of boost: 48#/hr
6cyl: 445whp 4cyl: 296whp
~24psi of boost: 52#/hr
6cyl: 482whp 4cyl: 321whp (I have been here, 333whp B16A)
~33psi of boost: 62#/hr
6cyl: 575whp 4cyl: 383whp
Jeffrey Atwood


_Modified by Jefnes3 at 10:19 PM 12-12-2003_


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## SAcoolestPolo (May 22, 2003)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (Jefnes3)*

An awesome site with turbo compressor map calculations, as well as the latest turbonetics compressor maps. including the new T04E super series.
http://www.majesticturbo.com


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## Agtronic (May 14, 2001)

Blow off valves 101 : http://www.venommotorsports.com/library/bov.asp
Wastegates 101 : http://www.venommotorsports.co...e.asp


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## Agtronic (May 14, 2001)

Useful fuel calculators, including a lbs/hr to cc/min converter and other nifty things. 
http://www.dsm-performance.com/fuel_injectors.php


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## Agtronic (May 14, 2001)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (Agtronic)*

Amazing Injector table! 
http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm


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## vdubspeed (Jul 19, 2002)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (Agtronic)*

16V exhaust manifolds...
ATP: 449 plus tax out the door








EIP: t3 flange - 499 t4 flange - 599
















Matrix engineering as a stage 1 kit - 2250








VWvortex member "Zornig" market price - 250 to 300
old style...








VWvortex member "roccoturbo" DIY mani. market/ebay price $105 give or take:








Plus custom jobs. Most of these manifolds are for t3 flanges though you can get some with a t4 flange but that will be overkill.


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## nater (Apr 10, 2000)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (130_R)*

Very good thread with pics of my atp stage 2 turbo install using Killa's T04 turbo
Later,


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## turbojetta16v (Feb 27, 2002)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (nater)*

compression ratio and boost
high compression ratio means more horsepower in a naturally aspirated engine
it does too in a forced induction engine but it becomes very dangerous due to the narrow point at wich the engine starts to borderline in detonation, in other words about to grenade and that's not good
you could run high compression ratio in a forced induction engine but you would need higher octane gas, that way you detonation is less likely to happen but with the new gas prices who is going to run racing gas on a street warrior?

anyway ways to lower compression
a) change pistons to dish piston
you have to crack the engine open but very reliable
b) stack headgaskets
not recommende by some, still you need to remove the head
some report good results with the multilayer metal gaskets
c) thicker headgasket
recommended by some, like copper spacers but they are hard to seal
d) remove material from head combustion chamber
pain in the but but effective if done properly
c) install a set of langford cr-5 bungs
10 minute operation cheap but it only reduces compression ratio by .5 points (ideal to engines with 10: 1 max since it will bring compression ratio to 9.5:1 good for boost)
d) change other internals, big thing, very expensive
whatever you do, just remember that detonation is not your friend!


_Modified by turbojetta16v at 5:33 AM 5-25-2004_


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## 2.8 MK3 (Feb 24, 2004)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (nater)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nater* »_From my website...but property of VF-Engineering:
Detailed pics for installing your VF-Engineering Supercharger 
Later,

This link is broken can someone please help me out as i would like to read it up.
Thanks


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## SoFarKingFast (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (2.8 MK3)*

Greddy Type-S Blow-Off Valve Info:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...95317


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## nater (Apr 10, 2000)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (130_R)*

My vr6 DIY Turbo Project with pics
Later,


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## Blak Golf (Sep 10, 2003)

how to read compressor maps
http://www.mrcontrols.com/primers/sizing.htm


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## I am Jack's VR6 (Sep 18, 2001)

TiAL wastegate spring list:

Wastegate - 35mm
BAR // PSI // Color // OD
0.30bar // 4.35psi // Sm. Yellow // 1.875in
0.45bar // 6.53psi // Sm. Red
0.65bar // 9.43psi // Sm. Green
0.8bar // 11.60psi // Sm. Blue

Wastegate - 35mmHP
BAR // PSI // Color // OD
0.95bar // 13.78psi // BigYellow // 1.875in
1.10bar // 15.95psi // BigRed
1.35bar // 19.58psi // BigGreen
1.5bar // 21.75psi // BigBlue

Wastegate - 38/40mm
BAR // PSI // Color // OD
0.25bar // 3.63psi // Sm. Yellow // 1.875in
0.4bar // 5.80psi // Sm. Red
0.5bar // 7.25psi // Sm. Green
0.6bar // 8.70psi // Sm. Blue
0.7bar // 10.15psi // Big Yellow 2.36in
0.8bar // 11.60psi // Big Red
0.9bar // 13.05psi // Big Green
1.0bar // 14.50psi // Big Blue
1.1bar // 15.95psi // **
1.2bar // 17.40psi // **
1.3bar // 18.95psi // **
1.4bar // 20.30psi // **
1.5bar // 21.75psi // **
1.6bar // 23.20psi // **
Wastegate - 44/46mm
BAR // PSI // Color // OD
0.2bar // 2.90psi // Sm. Yellow // 1.875in
0.3bar // 4.35psi // Sm. Red
0.4bar // 5.80psi // Sm. Green
0.5bar // 7.25psi // Sm. Blue
0.6bar // 8.70psi // Big Yellow // 2.36in
0.7bar // 10.15psi // Big Red
0.8bar // 11.60psi // Big Green
0.9bar // 13.05psi // Big Blue
1.0bar // 14.50psi // **
1.1bar // 15.95psi // **
1.2bar // 17.40psi // **
1.3bar // 18.95psi // **
1.4bar // 20.30psi // **
*All Standard WG35mm Springs can also be used for WG35mmHP
**You can combine Big&Small Springs to get the PSI that you need for HP
(found on honda-tech) http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by I am Jack's VR6 at 8:29 PM 8-18-2004_


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## killa (Nov 26, 2000)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (I am Jack's VR6)*

How to find the turbo trim:
The Trim is just the relation of the inducer to the exducer squared.
(I/E)^2 x 100
Take for example the T3 60 trim, its inducer measures 1.830" and its excuder 2.367" just like every other T3 exducer.
Divide the inducer (1.830) by the exducer (2.367) and you get .7731305. Square that number and you'll end up with a .5977, easily rounded off to .60. Multiply that .60 by 100 and you get a T3 60 trim.
Let's now do it for a T4 application:
T04E 60 trim:
Inducer: 2.290"
Exducer: 2.950"
Now, do the same formula (I/E)^2 *100
2.290/2.950 = .7762711 = .6025 or .60, multiply by 100 and you get a T04E 60 trim
Same trims, but totally different wheels.
T-series, however, work a little different. the number after the T stands for the size of the inducer in millimiters, so a T-61 would have a 61mm inducer.
Hope this helps 
Paul


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## lugnuts (Jul 26, 2001)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (killa)*

FAQ: "Are my Rings/Ring lands/Pistons blown? How do I tell?"
- Rings dont blow, its your pistons. "ring lands" are the grooves in the pistons that hold the rings in. 
- If you just put a turbo/sc/or nitrous on your engine and now its running on less all of its cylinders, and/or there is a massive amount of oil and smoke coming from your crankcase/valvecover breathers, the chances are the problem is broken piston ring lands caused by detonation. How you check the condition of your engine is to do a: 
1) compression test and/or 2) leak-down test.
Testing the condition of your engine" or, "Denial aint just a river in Egypt"
1: Compression Test.
Very easy to do. Cost of compression gauge is ~$35 at Sears or any other auto parts store. Time to do test is 10 minutes - 1 hour. *Much* less time than trying to find correct information on the Internet.
Basically you remove all of your spark plugs and install the gauge, open the throttle, and crank the motor 5-10 times. Measure and record the readings form every cylinder. Compare them to specs for your motor (Bently manual) or if you want general common sense answers then 140-220 (depending on the compression ratio of the engine) is good , less than 100-120 is telling you there is a problem. And if you have some cylinders at say 150 psi and one or more at less than 100 then you have found your problem right there.

2: Leak-down Test.
Consult your local technician. Leak down testing is good when you want to find your specific problem before tearing the engine down. But if your engine has 100 psi or less on one cylinder then you may find this step to be a waste of $$$.



_Modified by lugnuts at 1:23 PM 10-25-2004_


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## CrazyMonkey (Oct 1, 2002)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (lugnuts)*


_Quote, originally posted by *lugnuts* »_... general common sense answers then 140-220 (depending on the compression ratio of the engine) is good...

In addition, a big cam with greater overlap will give you lower compression test numbers than a smaller cam with less overlap.


_Modified by CrazyMonkey at 4:26 PM 11-3-2004_


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## stevelangford (Apr 22, 2001)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (130_R)*

instructions to turbocharge mk1 cis adobe acrobat file
http://www.signsandgraphics.co...C.pdf


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## 89 gli (Sep 13, 2002)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (130_R)*

Junkyard turbo specs:
http://www.gamesbbs.com/~turbo....html


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## Rapid Decompression (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (89 gli)*


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## killa (Nov 26, 2000)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (Badboyr66)*

Eric F's VAG spec page:
http://not2fast.wryday.com/vw/...shtml
enjoy http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## killa (Nov 26, 2000)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (killa)*

and Eric's turbo manifold page:
http://not2fast.wryday.com/turbo/em/


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## hackaholic (Dec 21, 2004)

the turbo diesel/ 8v swap page: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...&page


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## alexr44 (Dec 12, 2003)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (turbojetta16v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *turbojetta16v* »_compression ratio and boost
.......
you could run high compression ratio in a forced induction engine but you would need higher octane gas, that way you detonation is less likely to happen but with the new gas prices who is going to run racing gas on a street warrior?

anyway ways to lower compression
a) change pistons to dish piston
you have to crack the engine open but very reliable
b) stack headgaskets
not recommende by some, still you need to remove the head
some report good results with the multilayer metal gaskets
c) thicker headgasket
recommended by some, like copper spacers but they are hard to seal
d) remove material from head combustion chamber
pain in the but but effective if done properly
*c) install a set of langford cr-5 bungs
10 minute operation cheap but it only reduces compression ratio by .5 points (ideal to engines with 10: 1 max since it will bring compression ratio to 9.5:1 good for boost)*
..... 
whatever you do, just remember that detonation is not your friend!

_Modified by turbojetta16v at 5:33 AM 5-25-2004_


What is this langford thing you speak of?...


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## the4ork (Mar 10, 2003)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (alexr44)*

i will add a few pieces of advice from experience...
*NEVER* start your car with no oil feed line to the turbo, even if it is just for a few seconds
when buying parts, buy things that have room to grow, boost is addictive. if your only shooting for 180whp and 30lb injectors will get you there... do yourself a favor and get 42lb injectors, cause eventually you'll want more power, and this saves time/money.
for me personally, if i could go back and tell myself 2 things with all that i know now from expeirience... i would tell myself to A. dont buy digifantI save for 034efi stage1c, and 2 dont buy the k26 it sucks, save for an equal length t3manifold with a t3/t4


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## purple-pill (Feb 2, 2003)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (the4ork)*

sometimes we learn the hard way.


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## SkeeterVR6 (Mar 12, 2000)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (purple-pill)*

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?&id=1904282 Valuable Intercooler Info..


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (the4ork)*


_Quote, originally posted by *the4ork* »_i will add a few pieces of advice from experience...
*NEVER* start your car with no oil feed line to the turbo, even if it is just for a few seconds


this is a silly statment. unless your turbo spools at idle, it wont matter.


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## veedub11 (Mar 10, 2002)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (speed51133!)*

*YOU NEED YOUR OWN HARDWARE FOR ROSS MACHINING SDS 8V TRIGGER MOUNT!!!* 

In order to mount the bracket to the motor and hall sensor to the bracket you need to source your own hardware, not the OEM and not the SDS. The bracket needs I believe (not sure) 8x30 metric allen key bolts and the hall sensor needs 10x30 metric screws/allens to mount the hall sensor.
I had to call Ross and tell him that they need to tell the buyers this because it says this no where and they don't return voicemails.


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## 6psiDasher (May 31, 2005)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (130_R)*

4. If you do not have any technical help to add, then do not add anything (stupid remarks will result in an automatic 10 point deduction)
Where do the points come from? How many do i have to start? Who is winning now? Does this count as 4 questions or just one?


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## vwgtiIII (Jan 3, 2005)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (speed51133!)*


_Quote, originally posted by *speed51133!* »_
this is a silly statment. unless your turbo spools at idle, it wont matter.

Wow you know nothing about turbos. Do you think that unless your turbo is at full boost, it isn't spooling? It runs as exhaust gasses pass thru the compressor. On initial startup and any other time the spark plug ignites a load, there HAS to be exhaust being passed. It may not be much but it is still there. With the gasses being passed thru the compressor, the vanes catch that flow and rotate...With rotation and no lubricationg>not a good thing! it may not blow the turbo up instantly but trust me, it won't be good for it in any sort of way. Woudl you start up a motor with no oil in it? or how about change the rear bearings and not use lube???


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## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (vwgtiIII)*

taken from honda-tech
HOW-TO-READ A COMPRESSOR MAP
using a map of a T04E 60 trim I will explain all the numbers on the map
1-left side, PRESSURE RATIO
(14.7 + amount of boost) / 14.7 = PR
so to figure out the PR for 8 PSI 
(14.7 + 8) / 14.7 = 1.54 PR

2-bottom side, AIRFLOW RATE UNDER BOOST (LB/MIN on this map)
Most methods of calculation your engine's airflow rate will give you the answer in cubic feet per minute (CFM). However most compressor maps measure airflow rate in pounds per minute (LB/MIN). As some of you may know the weight of air varies with the temperature. To convert CFM to LB/MIN use the following numbers.
@ 48 degrees F : (CFM * 0.078125) = LB/MIN
@112 degrees F : (CFM * 0.070318) = LB/MIN
@175 degrees F : (CFM * 0.06251) = LB/MIN
Say for example our airflow rate is 500 CFM , and the temperature is 112 degrees F.
(500 * 0.070318) = 35.16 LB/MIN
*For those of you that know anything about ideal gas law, if you know a better way of explaining how to convert CFM to LB/MIN, your input would be appreciated. But please explain it in "laymans" terms, so that everyone can get a grasp on it.

3-dotted line on far left side of "ovals", SURGE LIMIT
It is important to try and keep yourself on the right side of this dotted line whenever possible. If you fall to the left of this dotted line you will experience compressor surge. This type of compressor surge will occur when there is too much boost, but not enough airflow through the system, usually this is between idle and the point at which full boost is reached. The chirping sound that can be heard is a result of the oscillating air. This sound is often described as a "Snakelike" sound or a che-che-che sound.
*staying in the "surge limit" area for too long could possibly damage your turbo.

4-numbers on far right, 46,020, 69,640, 83,972 etc, COMPRESSOR RPM
This is RPM at which the compressor fans will be turning. an average RPM is between 90,000 and 130,000. The line that branches out from each of these numbers that goes towards the surge limit line shows you the RPM range of the compressor fan across the entire compressor map.

5-78%,75%, 74%, COMPRESSOR EFFICIENCY
This is related to the temp of air and how much it is being heated up as it is being compressed by the compressor. A low number (60%) means that the compressor is heating the air more a high number (78%) means the air is not heated as much when it is compressed.

6-"Ovals"
I you look closely you will see that the compressor efficiency numbers usually sit right on top of one of these Oval lines. These Ovals show you the boundaries of the compressor efficiency at the different percentiles. Think of it as a topography map that shows you different elevations or changes in elevations. The innermost Oval on the sample T04 E 60" is not labeleb but it is probably 79% or 80%, so any where inside that Oval and you would be operating in the 80% range of that compressor.








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how to choose the right IC piping
Airflow velocity for different intercooler piping diameters (2.0 2.25 2.5 2.75 3.0 inches)
Hi guys,
In the last few weeks I've seen several posts on whether it is ok to use 2.5" or higher piping, or if somebody could use their ITR AEM CAI as a charge pipe. I tried to help all of them best I could, but jus a short while ago I helped another H-T member out with a similar question. I searched online and used a flow calculator to help me figure out the airflow velocity for a given area and cfm. The site I used is THIS ONE. As you guys can see it has the area in length times width instead of PiRsquare which is the area of a circle. I took the area of each pipie diameter and usd the equivalent area of a square and used those as my length and width. I made it simple and just took the area of the circle and divided by 2. The resulting number was usd as my length and 2 was used as my width.
Your actual results may vary (ie when you add an IC) so just use my numbers as sort of a bench mark to compare different piping sizes. One thing you guys will notice is that none of the velocites goes above 304 MPH or 0.4 mach. According to Corky Bell, Maximum Boost pg 61, 304 MPH or 0.4 mach is the point at which airflow meets increased resistance (drag) and flow losses are experienced.
Anyways here are the numbers I came up with. The velocities are in miles per hour and mach, and the flow rates are in cfm. Measurements for the piping are in inches.
0.4 mach = 304 MPH
2" piping
1.57 x 2 = 3.14 sq in
300 cfm = 156 mph = 0.20 mach
400 cfm = 208 mph = 0.27 mach
500 cfm = 261 mph = 0.34 mach
585 cfm max = 304 mph = 0.40 mach

2.25" piping
3.9740625 sq in = 1.98703125 x 2
300 cfm = 123 mph = 0.16 mach
400 cfm = 164 mph = 0.21 mach
500 cfm = 205 mph = 0.26 mach
600 cfm = 247 mph = 0.32 mach
700 cfm = 288 mph = 0.37 mach
740 cfm max = 304 mph = 0.40 mach

2.5" piping
4.90625 sq in = 2.453125 x 2
300 cfm = 100 mph = 0.13 mach
400 cfm = 133 mph = 0.17 mach
500 cfm = 166 mph = 0.21 mach
600 cfm = 200 mph = 0.26 mach
700 cfm = 233 mph = 0.30 mach
800 cfm = 266 mph = 0.34 mach
900 cfm = 300 mph = 0.39 mach
913 cfm max = 304 mph = 0.40 mach

2.75" piping
5.9365625 sq in = 2.96828125 x 2
300 cfm = 82 mph = 0.10 mach
400 cfm = 110 mph = 0.14 mach
500 cfm = 137 mph = 0.17 mach
600 cfm = 165 mph = 0.21 mach
700 cfm = 192 mph = 0.25 mach
800 cfm = 220 mph = 0.28 mach
900 cfm = 248 mph = 0.32 mach
1000 cfm = 275 mph = 0.36 mach
1100 cfm max = 303 mph = 0.40 mach

3.0" piping
7.065 sq in = 3.5325 x 2
300 cfm = 69 mph = 0.09 mach
400 cfm = 92 mph = 0.12 mach
500 cfm = 115 mph = 0.15 mach
600 cfm = 138 mph = 0.18 mach
700 cfm = 162 mph = 0.21 mach
800 cfm = 185 mph = 0.24 mach
900 cfm = 208 mph = 0.27 mach
1000 cfm = 231 mph = 0.30 mach
1100 cfm = 254 cfm = 0.33 mach
1200 cfm = 277 mph = 0.36 mach
1300 cfm max= 301 mph = 0.39 mach


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## vrally (Dec 15, 2005)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (turbojetta16v)*

I was wondering about the langford cr-5 bungs?
I'm unfarmilar with that.


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## vrally (Dec 15, 2005)

Does anyone know how I'd go to go about rigging a M90 Eaton super up to a 8v???
I'd realy apperciate some direction befor I start diggin up parts.
From what I hear G60's are comparatively expensive and unreliable, and that a M90 would be a good fix, and capable of, a potential 20 pound boost.
Naturaly I need a MegaSquart. But I am still ignorant on the cheepest fully functional system.(Spark included.) I think it's V2.0?
Any advise is appreciated!!!!


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## DHill (Jan 8, 2002)

*Re: (vrally)*

Intercooler info:
How they are built:
http://www.carparts.com.hk/intercooler.htm 
Really good tech information: http://www.are.com.au/feat/techtalk/techtalk.htm


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## Mike0105 (Dec 31, 1999)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (Agtronic)*


_Quote »_
Quote, originally posted by PADILLA » 
What torque spec are you guys using on ARP main bolts? I lost the info sheet on them, think it said 60ftlbs but that seems kinda low. Lmk. Thanks 

Head Studs : 70 ft.lbs 
Main Studs : 45-48 ft.lbs 
Connecting Rod Bolts : 28-30 ft-lbs 
All using the Lube ARP provides.
Hope that Helps Jesse


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## spooln6 (May 27, 2005)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ ([email protected])*

so what woud be the best cam for a sc car the auto tech262 work ?


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## Snowgoer05 (Oct 26, 2005)

Her is a much better sirte regarding Engine specs and codes ect http://www.autotech.com/appchart.htm 
Enjoy


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## JDriver1.8t (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (Snowgoer05)*

c) install a set of langford cr-5 bungs
10 minute operation cheap but it only reduces compression ratio by .5 points (ideal to engines with 10: 1 max since it will bring compression ratio to 9.5:1 good for boost)
Can someone please explain what this is. This has been asked about 6 times now.


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## beerboyone (Mar 7, 2004)

*Re:*

Garrett has some very useful turbo knowledge on their website
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/....html


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: Re: (beerboyone)*

Turbo cars are *HIGH MAINTENANCE*. You need to do oil changes every 3k. Change filters every time, clean/replace air filters ETC. You will spend more then what you are thinking.
Besides you basic bolt on you will MOST LIKELY need a clutch, LSD, intercooler, ECU/Stand Alone, gauges, sensors, etc.
Driving a turbo car is an art by itself. its not a "put your foot to floor and watch me go" car. if you are looking for htat, I would recommend a nice 427 or something with 8cylinders and some power behind it.
BE PATIENT. IF YOU RUSH IT, IT WILL BREAK...AND QUICKLY


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## Caddy84rat's (May 30, 2006)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (stevelangford)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stevelangford* »_instructions to turbocharge mk1 cis adobe acrobat file
http://www.signsandgraphics.co...C.pdf

The PDF file is not available now
Can you do me a favour ? Put it again or mail it me at
michael dot voivoditch at wanadoo dot fr
Thanks


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## mikemcnair (Mar 28, 2003)

*Re: (JDriver1.8t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JDriver1.8t* »_c) *install a set of langford cr-5 bungs*
10 minute operation cheap but it only reduces compression ratio by .5 points (ideal to engines with 10: 1 max since it will bring compression ratio to 9.5:1 good for boost)
Can someone please explain what this is. This has been asked about 6 times now.

taking it up to see what this means????????????????????


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## mikemcnair (Mar 28, 2003)

*Re: (mikemcnair)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mikemcnair* »_
taking it up to see what this means????????????????????
 
up for answers http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## stang2 (Nov 4, 2008)

*Re: (mikemcnair)*

moderators lots of links not working please clean this faq up


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## NAVI51 (Aug 18, 2008)

*Re: Forced Induction Frequently Asked Questions: FAQ (stevelangford)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stevelangford* »_instructions to turbocharge mk1 cis adobe acrobat file
http://www.signsandgraphics.co...C.pdf

Could anyone post a working link of this please


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