# "Easy" Motor Mount DIY (No Pictures) C5 allroad



## kellogs001 (Jun 13, 2012)

Recently was forced to replace my motor mounts as they had worn out after 15 longs years, and found a lacking online of much simpler DIY walkthrough of how to replace them. I found many walkthroughs that told tale of removing AC compressors and a whole load of other extras, but I've found a "Simple" (Ha!) way of replacing them.

*Getting Started*​
- Start by jacking the car up and placing it on jack stands as far back as you are comfortable, or if your lucky use your hoist
- Remove the front clip and place it in "Service Position" so you can easily access the front of the engine.
- Remove both front tires
- Remove the 4 nuts securing the sway bar to the bottom motor mount brackets and let hang

*Passenger Side*​
- Remove air intake, air box and the Y-Pipe at the turbo inlet pipe
- Pry open wire holder attached to lower mount bracket and remove (10mm) bolt)
- Remove 3 (18mm) bolts on the bottom motor mount bracket and remove (13mm) nut
- Jack left side of motor up to expose turbo inlet pipe mount bolts 
- Remove the 3 bolts (10mm) holding the turbo inlet pipe to the engine, it has its own support bracket, 2 bolts on the head, 1 bolt on the pipe
- Remove the 2 coolant lines still attached to the radiator that are directly in front of the turbo inlet pipe and wiggle free (there is a vacuum line attached, remove if you choose and secure with Loctite Bearing Retaining Compound on reassembly)
- Now you have clear access to the top nut (13mm), crack loose with 6 point box end wrench
- Finish removing nut with chosen method (I used a stubby ratcheting wrench)
- First install the motor mount itself to the top engine side bracket and tighten up, making sure to align the tabs front-rear facing
- Lube up the O-Rings and re-install turbo inlet pipe and secure with bracket and 3 (10mm) bolts 
- Lower engine to where you think it sits
- Re-install the lower mount bracket lowering or raising the engine as need be
- Re-install the airbox and Y-Pipe
- Re-install coolant lines

*Driver Side*​
- Remove bottom mount bracket in same manner as the passenger side, minus the wire holder as this side doesn't have it
- There are 4 (8mm) Allen head bolts holding the top mount bracket in place, remove the 3 easy access ones, you'll know the one to leave in as it is next to the turbo
- Tilt top mount bracket back, angling the top forward
- Now for the real time saver, find an old long chisel and sharpen to a nice sharp flat, and chisel the nut loose with a hammer, you can do this for the whole removal of the nut if its rusty
- Having an extra hand to hold the motor mount from moving can also save time as well.
- If the nut got banged up bad or if you're just real picky replace the nut and again starting with the top nut replace the motor mount aligning the tabs north-south
- Using a stubby wrench tighten the nut as much as you can, you can also try using a pry bar to get some more tightness out of the nut too, and for extra measure, give the nut a few good hits with the chisel to be extra sure, no more than 3 should do
- Re-install all items taken off to access top nut
- Re-install front clip

*Final Notes​*
After you finish the install, drive your car a around a little bit and bring it back in the shop and re tighten the bottom mount brackets as they have had some time to settle where they want and most likely have "come loose"

When you have the passenger side turbo inlet flange off take a long screw driver or socket extension poke your turbo to check for shaft play, after 240,000kms mine was still in good shape (letting your car warm up and cool down will go along way)

I didn't take any pictures at the time as I was in a hurry to get the job finished and followed other walkthroughs till the point of dead ends and extra work and decided to figure a different way. 

I couldn't tell you how long this will take, my guess would be atleast 4 hours tho, I did a whole lot of extra work and pondering so I couldn't give you an accurate time

I hope this helps, my guess is this will also work on A6 2.7 and 2.8 and S4 and RS4's as well but I can't tell you for sure


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