# DIY: Changing the Alternator in a MK IV 12v VR6



## this_dubs4u (Nov 14, 2003)

First of all I want to thank darisd and VgRt6 for their DIY write ups that helped me get through this procedure. Some of what I will cover (and pics







) will be from their respective write ups.
Please *do these procedures at your own risk, I assume no liability* and be ready to make small adjustments while doing them. Also, please be observant while removing parts so that they go back together correctly.
You will have to remove the entire front end of the car to complete this procedure







you are putting the lock carrier into service position.
*TOOLS NEEDED*
Flathead screwdriver (small, preferably smooth)
Torx tools (T25 and T30)
13mm, 10mm, 8mm sockets and ratchet
Something to contain and deal with coolant, I bought a 2 gal gas can
1/2 in clear plastic hose (Home Depot plumbing dept)
6mm hex wrench or socket
M8x**x1.25 pitch bolt, where ** is the length in mm (Home Depot *DOES NOT* carry metric bolts, so I ended up going to Ace Hardware) I have not specified a length since it varies depending on the model year/version VR6 you have but I bought 40mm and 60mm lengths (.20 ea) and ended up using the 60mm one.
Booger hook (also referred to as pick tools)
Pry Bar
Wire Strippers (if upgrading charging wire)
Wire Crimpers (if upgrading charging wire)
Digital Multimeter (DMM)
*Required Materials*
Mechanics gloves (suggested to prevent cuts)
Latex gloves
G12 coolant (one gal)
Distilled water (one gal) found at Walgreens with latex gloves
Paper towels and/or shop rags
and a few















The Bentley manual indicates in an illustration and procedure in section 50 (Body-Front) that there is a special VAG tool set (3411) that allows you to place the lock carrier into service position. This tool is not necessary if you follow this procedure, but might help. I tried to get this from the stealership, but the guy says all the VAG parts/tools are made by Snap-On, so I did this procedure without the tool (basically long bolts).
*Go ahead and DISCONNECT the battery cables NOW!! or you will forget*
You will need to remove the bumper cover, I have an aftermarket one and have done this procedure plenty of times to replace bulbs, etc. If you already know how to do this skip to the next section.
1: Remove the two lower side grilles.
2: Remove the grille. See section 66 of the Bentley manual. First disconnect the hood release lever from the hood lock assembly. This is a plastic clip held together with a metal retainer. Move the retainer away from the lock assembly, then insert a small screwdriver into the gap and twist, then pull it towards the front of the vehicle until it is free. The grille is held in place by three plastic tabbed clips. There are two on each end of the grille at the top. Insert a small screwdriver into the gap between it and the bumper skin to unclip each of these two. The third is in the center and is easy to identify. Once it is unclipped it just pops off.
3: Remove the bumper skin. First pop the two side marker bulbs out of the housings. There are 4 torx screws in each wheel well (turn the wheels to access them or use a torx socket), five under the grille, and one behind each of the lower side grilles. Once they are off the skin will be free. It is very light and does not pose a danger: remove it and place in a safe location.
4: Remove the impact absorbing foam insert. It is not attached, just pull it free.
5: Remove and unplug the headlights. The drivers side will require you to remove the plastic baffles that funnel air into the air box which are between the lock carrier and the battery box. 
6: Remove the lower sound absorption panel (4 torx screws). This is the FRP panel below the oil filter.
7: Disconnect the plug for your hood latch sensor. This was above the passenger side headlamp for me held to the lock carrier by a wire clamp, it may be different for you.
8: Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the radiator. Begin by opening the system up to ambient air pressure by opening the overflow tank. Drain the coolant from the drain on the lower drivers side. I attached the clear tubing to the drain nipple (red arrow) and ran the end into my gas can (less mess) and turned the knob (yellow arrow) to begin draining. 

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Now disconnect the lower radiator hose (drivers side) by moving the metal clip straight up through its notches until it stops (booger hook is useful here), and then pull the hose towards the rear of the vehicle. Be VERY careful doing this: there will be coolant that was not able to drain normally inside the lower hose, and considerable force was required for me to get mine off. Do yourself a favor and wear splash resistant eye protection if you have it handy. This image has the groove that the clip slides in pointed out. 

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On models with the auxiliary radiator on the passenger side, unclip (2 clips) the return hose leading to the auxiliary radiator.
9: Remove the two screws holding the plastic lock carrier to the front quater fenders. These are right behind and above the respective headlights.
10: Remove the four bolts holding the lock carrier to the frame rails. Expert advice: you would also be advised to mark the exact bolt locations and note how many, if any, spacer washers are where. You can mark the pocations with off-color spray paint (ie:white). WARNING: The lock carrier assembly will now not be attached to the vehicle, and only resting on the frame rail!

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11: Support the lock carrier with a floor jack, and give it a extra centimeter or so extra push upwards to free it. Do not be alarmed, the lock carrier is still held close to the car by the lock cable. 
12: Remove the lock cable. The cable is braided steel and has a metal ball on the end. Use needle nose pliers to grab the end of this cable and work it out of the gate that retains it in the lock assembly. Then remove the sleeve clip from the lock carrier.
13: Remove the upper radiator hose. The location will be slightly different from vehicle to vehicle. It will be on the drivers side again, behind the battery. You will probably have to move the lock carrier assembly out a tad to get clean access.
14: Unplug the radiator fans. To do this you will again have to pull the lock carrier assembly back a tad to get better access.
15: Unplug the coolant sensor on the radiator. This is on the drivers side tucked above the radiator fan plugs. This plug was one of the most pain in the butts of the whole procedure.
16: Now you can slowly lower the jack and lay the whole assebly to the side, use the jack to keep it propped up a bit. Be very careful with how far you move this assembly, as the AC system fittings could be damaged.

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As you can see, we now have EASY access to the alternator. Now we will begin with alternator removal. You will not only have to loosen the belt tensioner but you will have to remove it to gain access to the bolts








You will need to remove the plastic engine cover to gain access to the tensioner.
To remove the tension from the serpentine belt, thread a M8x**x1.25 pitch bolt into the threaded hole in the top of the tensioner unit (as indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below) and turn using a 13mm socket or wrench until the serpentine belt is loose. ** is the length of the bolt in mm and will depend on the model year/version VR6 you have. Basically, you need a bolt that is long enough to fully remove the belt tension before the bolt head threads in completely, but is short enough to not interfere with the fuel lines overhead (red arrows in picture below). On my '00 VR6 a 60mm bolt worked fine.

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Once the belt tension has been removed, remove the tensioner unit from the engine by removing the three (3) 6mm Hex bolts indicated by the yellow arrows in the picture below (Note: On some cars, these bolts will be 13mm bolt heads instead). When the three bolts are out, slide the serpentine belt towards the passenger's side of the car and off of the tensioner pulley. You should now be able to remove the tensioner unit from the engine.

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NOTE: I recommend that you remove the M8 tension-release bolt to release the extra tension from the spring inside the tensioner. While not likely, it's possible that the spring may be damaged or deformed if it sits for too long in an over-tensioned state. If you do remove the tension, make sure to thread the M8 bolt back into the tensioner and reapply tension to the spring before reinstalling the tensioner onto the engine. If you don't, you will not be able to get the serpentine belt back onto the tensioner pulley.
Now you will be able to see the (2) bolts holding the alternator to the engine. One at the top and one at the bottom.

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Loosen and remove the 13mm bolts. Use the pry bar to ease the alternator foward. Pop the cover off the charging lead bolt and loosen the 10mm nut to disconnect the battery wire. Unplug the sensor and loosen and remove the 8mm nut that holds the clamp in place. Now you can remove the alternator. Here is another pic of the bracket (alternator out) that holds the alternator.

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Since I have a lot of stereo equiptment I bought a 200 amp replacement alternator from HO Alternators http://www.h-o-alternators.com/index.htm It is the factory case and plug and even comes with the pulley already attached!! I also decided to "upgrade" the charging lead to the battery with a 1/0 guage wire. You can purchase the wire and connectors from your local stereo shop if you want to upgrade your wire as well. I also used a red protective sleeve from Vitek. 

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Install the new alternator reversing the above steps. I had to grind the top portion of the alternator brackets to make it fit in place. Reinstall the tensioner reversing the steps used to remove it. Make sure the belt lines up in place. 
*Front End Re-Assembly*
1: Attach upper radiator hose. 
2: Place the assembly on the frame rails and screw in the four 13mm bolts. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN! They are only torqued to 15 ft/lbs (20 N/m).
3: Attach lower radiator hose. 
4: Plug the three plugs into the radiator: two fans and the sensor.
5: Replace the hood release cable. First put the ball end throught the gates, then pull back on the housing and clip the end onto the lock frame where you pulled it off (a centimeter to the drivers side).
6: *BEFORE CONTINUING* check the operation of the lock release. If you continue and have problems you will not be able to easily reach the internals of the lock, without doing something like pulling the motor from the bottom of the car, blowtorching a hole in the hood, calling your cousin Vinny who has been "fixing" locks for years, Etc. FIRST check that the release lever in the cabin is in the normal position, and pull on it to see if it is solid. Now drop the hood slowly and push to see if it wants to latch. Now pull it up a half meter and drop it. It should latch. Now check that you can release it from the cabin. All is now well.
7: Replace the bumper externals. Foam core first, then the bumper. The bumper clips onto the fenders and rests on the lock carrier at this point. Now screw the bumper in from the front, and last get the wheel well screws.
8: Replace the grills. For the center top grill, clip the hood catch release first, then clip the rest in the reverse as removal. 
9: Close the hood and check the fit. Everything should be lined up exactly as before. If you are not happy, feel free to remove the bumper and adjust the positioning of the four frame rail bolts, or add washers under these bolts, rinse and repeat. REMEMBER TO CHECK THE LATCH MECHANISM EACH TIME! 
10: Reattach the battery.
11: Refill the radiator 50% water, 50% coolant. As indicated in the bentley manual, fill the reservoir and keep filling it until it hits and stays at the MAX mark. Start the car, let it run for a second or two, and stop it. Refill to the max again. Start it again and let it run until the fans come on. Now stop it and refill again if necessary. Repeat until the expansion tank is full to the max mark with the fans running. Let it cool all the way down and recheck the level (fill to the max mark).
12: Once you are full on coolant, start the vehicle and use your DMM to verify the alternator is properly charging. With no load (A/C or heat off, lights off, stereo off) it should be reading 13.4 to 14.2 volts.
This is the *BIGGEST PITA* to replace an alternator














*HOWEVER* if you are even a little bit mechanically inclined, have some patience, and 4-6 hours this CAN be done with ease. Remember, it is just as much a PITA for the stealership mechanics, so save yourself some $$$ DIY and use the extra cash you saved for some















Hope this will help someone http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## mr.gti (Feb 25, 2003)

nice write up, but why did you have to take off the front...ive replaced alternators on mk4 at dealer by taking off just the intake manifold


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## this_dubs4u (Nov 14, 2003)

*Re: (mr.gti)*

this was the only option I knew of besides jacking the motor up, I also wanted to replace the wire going from the alternator to the battery. I also needed to change out the coolant, so this killed 2 birds with one stone


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## T99inFL (Aug 4, 1999)

*Re: (mr.gti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mr.gti* »_nice write up, but why did you have to take off the front...ive replaced alternators on mk4 at dealer by taking off just the intake manifold

What exactly is your procedure?


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## killerrabbittruck (Apr 19, 2001)

*Re: (T99inFL)*

I've done this about 4 times, i take off the bumper, but not the radiator, i jsut loosen the rad support and pull it out a few inches plenty of room, it works, not as messy, and save another few $$ on coolant. although it would be really easy with the whole support out of the way. also how much did you pay for the alternator? I burn the stock ones quick....







great write up though, would've been helpful my first time around.


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## this_dubs4u (Nov 14, 2003)

*Re: (killerrabbittruck)*


_Quote, originally posted by *killerrabbittruck* »_ although it would be really easy with the whole support out of the way. also how much did you pay for the alternator? I burn the stock ones quick....







great write up though, would've been helpful my first time around. 

it was very easy once the whole assembly was out of the way, the alternator was around $500 but it was built to the specs I gave them, is 200 amp output


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## fourthchirpin (Nov 19, 2004)

*Re: (this_dubs4u)*

i was soo happy i did it with out haveing to jack up my car/motor


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## ROCKnRLR (Oct 30, 2000)

*Re: (fourthchirpin)*

Can the Eurovan 150A alternator used in a Mk4 12V VR6?


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## 708VR6 (May 20, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Changing the Alternator in a MK IV 12v VR6 (this_dubs4u)*

yea nice write up, but thats alot of work when you can easily remove the intake manifold and access the alternator from above


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## ROCKnRLR (Oct 30, 2000)

*Re: DIY: Changing the Alternator in a MK IV 12v VR6 (708VR6)*

That's what I was thinking. Loose the dog bone, swing engine up, remove mani.


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## automan21 (Feb 22, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Changing the Alternator in a MK IV 12v VR6 (708VR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *708VR6* »_yea nice write up, but thats alot of work when you can easily remove the intake manifold and access the alternator from above









so thats how you did it? I need to change mine and dont have many places to do this. What is the details of the procedure....for the removal without taking off the front end?


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Changing the Alternator in a MK IV 12v VR6 (automan21)*

You can actually get the alternator out w.o removing the front core support. You can unbolt it and pull it foward 3inches, remove the dogbone, the engine mount and jack the engine up and it leaves you w/ enough room to squeeze the alternator out. (also dont have to drain coolant = less mess







)


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## lil8v (Jun 28, 2002)

*Re: DIY: Changing the Alternator in a MK IV 12v VR6 (Slimjimmn)*

dude uhm its comes out top or bottem.either remove ac compressor and take it out bottem or push the motor up and just tilt the clip forward


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: DIY: Changing the Alternator in a MK IV 12v VR6 (Slimjimmn)*

This is how I took the alternator out:
- loosened front end
- removed belt tensioner
- removed the two M8x85mm alternator bolts and used them to support the front end instead of special "service position" VW tools. This allowed about 4-5 inches of play
- removed the upper intake manifold
- sprayed WD-40 on the alternator bolt holes - made it slide out easier
After that, getting the alternator out was a piece of cake. 
Now putting the new one in will be my next adventure.


_Modified by phatvw at 10:02 PM 7-31-2007_


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## ibeatjettas (May 14, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Changing the Alternator in a MK IV 12v VR6 (phatvw)*

i dont know if i'm allowed to post on this thread or not but for any mk2 vr6 owners who need to replace the alternator theres an easier way. if you dont have the ac compressor or power steering pump then you can dont have to take apart anything. all you have to do is take it out from the bottom, its tight but it will fit. i changed my alternator in less than 10 mins.


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## mbz300sdl (Jun 4, 2007)

*Re: DIY: Changing the Alternator in a MK IV 12v VR6 (ibeatjettas)*

Does anyone know how hard this would be todo on a 2.8l 12v Audi?


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## marct (Nov 15, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Changing the Alternator in a MK IV 12v VR6 (this_dubs4u)*

Just wanted to say thanks for this DIY! I just went through all of it today. I had a real fight with the hoses to the auxillary radiator, but after I worked that out it was all good. 
Actually changing the alternator was easy. I changed the tensioner pulley with one from German Auto parts while I was in there along with a new belt. 
Thanks again, appreciate your time and effort to put it together.


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## i3inary (Feb 11, 2001)

*Re: DIY: Changing the Alternator in a MK IV 12v VR6 (this_dubs4u)*

worked like a charm. i owe you a beer.
thanks a lot.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Changing the Alternator in a MK IV 12v VR6 (i3inary)*

Wow, just like my write up...\/


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## Masace18 (Apr 21, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Changing the Alternator in a MK IV 12v VR6 (this_dubs4u)*

I wont say that this method of changing the alternator is stupid, but I will say that its very unnecessary. The only thing thats good about it is that it makes taking the actual alternator off much easier. An easier way to get to the alternator is to go from the bottom. First, remove the side piece of the engine cover on the passenger side and the release the tension on the belt. then remove the tensioner (3-13mm bolts) and then get under the car and take off the plastic guards (the one in the middle and the one on the drivers side.) then unbolt the power steering pump (5-13mm bolts) but dont disconnect any of the hoses. then use a wire or bungee cord to support it. Next, remove the bolts from the compressor, (2-16mm bolts) then let that suspend without disconnecting any hoses. now you're at the alternator theres a ground wire with an 8mm hex nut holding it on, a plastic connector and the power cord held on by a 13mm hex nut. The alternator itself is held on by 2 13mm bolts. once you have the bolts out and everything disconnected from the alternator its ready to come out. It takes a little maneuvering but it will come out i promise. just be careful and pay attention to what you're doing. I like this method better because it doesn’t require taking the ENTIRE FRONT END off. And as always, don’t forget to disconnect the battery!


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## Marcusvr6 (Mar 3, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Changing the Alternator in a MK IV 12v VR6 (Masace18)*

hi,,,, can you make DIY? with pictures please.....please....please....make me happy


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## Masace18 (Apr 21, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Changing the Alternator in a MK IV 12v VR6 (Marcusvr6)*

sorry man, i've already done the work. i promise its not really bad at all.


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## Ronan978 (Dec 1, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Changing the Alternator in a MK IV 12v VR6 (Masace18)*

anybody know if this will be the same on a 24v


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY: Changing the Alternator in a MK IV 12v VR6 (Ronan978)*

Should be almost identical.


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## umop 3p!sdn (Apr 2, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Changing the Alternator in a MK IV 12v VR6 (Masace18)*

*I wont say that this method of changing the alternator is stupid, but I will say that its very unnecessary. The only thing thats good about it is that it makes taking the actual alternator off much easier. An easier way to get to the alternator is to go from the bottom. First, remove the side piece of the engine cover on the passenger side and the release the tension on the belt. then remove the tensioner (3-13mm bolts) and then get under the car and take off the plastic guards (the one in the middle and the one on the drivers side.) then unbolt the power steering pump (5-13mm bolts) but dont disconnect any of the hoses. then use a wire or bungee cord to support it. Next, remove the bolts from the compressor, (2-16mm bolts) then let that suspend without disconnecting any hoses. now you're at the alternator theres a ground wire with an 8mm hex nut holding it on, a plastic connector and the power cord held on by a 13mm hex nut. The alternator itself is held on by 2 13mm bolts. once you have the bolts out and everything disconnected from the alternator its ready to come out. It takes a little maneuvering but it will come out i promise. just be careful and pay attention to what you're doing. I like this method better because it doesn’t require taking the ENTIRE FRONT END off. And as always, don’t forget to disconnect the battery!*
Just replaced mine last week using this method. It would have been great on a lift (which i thought i would get to use) but is still manageable on the floor. It did take me a few hours, however I was laying in a pool of melted snow and salt which was also dripping on my face and body which greatly slowed things down.
The hardest part was getting the three components back onto their mounting. I imagine this would be a piece of cake with the front off (since each needed to be pushed towards the engine to fit back into place). second hardest part was aligning the holes and getting the bolts back in place, although the 3 on the front of the power steering and the three on the tensioner were not bad.








Following up with a beer would have been ideal, however i had to race to work.


_Modified by umop 3p!sdn at 10:35 PM 2-22-2010_


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## Jat007 (Jun 26, 2010)

Ok, looks like I will be replacing my alternator soon. Any last advice you gents would like to give me before I attempt this? This would be on a 2003 Jetta VR6.

Thanks,


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## crspechicn (Jul 16, 2007)

Just replaced my alt. in my garage without under-car access, by only pulling the lock carrier forward and not pulling the coolant hoses. The toughest part was actually getting the alt physically out of the car once I had unbolted everything. It will come out the top if you cuss at it enough. If you're combining this job with others like wire replacement or coolant system work, it will be much easier if you pull the lock carrier off all the way, but it can be done without under-car work or draining the coolant.


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## krid80 (Apr 16, 2008)

I am in the middle of this job right now and am having problems with fitting the new alternator. The spacers that should slide in to the aluminum bracket are seized so tightly that they keep busting the mounting ears off the new alternators. Anyone have any idea how to get the mounting spacers to move?


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## krid80 (Apr 16, 2008)

should have said... the car is a 2003 GLI VR6 with the 120 amp alternator


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## krid80 (Apr 16, 2008)

nevermind I got it figured out 

I stacked a 12mm socket and a 13/16" socket and it fit perfectly over the spacer and into the gap to act as a puller to pull the spacer through while holding the "ears" in place.

This is freaking tedious! I think it is about time to trade it off. 104,000 miles


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## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

krid80 said:


> I am in the middle of this job right now and am having problems with fitting the new alternator. The spacers that should slide in to the aluminum bracket are seized so tightly that they keep busting the mounting ears off the new alternators. Anyone have any idea how to get the mounting spacers to move?


I always put a bolt through them, start it and hit the bolt with a BFH a couple times to break them loose and make install easier.


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## krid80 (Apr 16, 2008)

I tried the bfh on the second one I broke. Still nothing. The home made puller worked like a champ, though. 

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using tapatalk.


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## tblankenship (Jul 25, 2009)

I'm trying to replace the alternator on a 24V 2003 VR6. I'm trying to work from the bottom instead of removing the front. My problem is that the upper AC compressor bolt is too long to remove. I think I must be missing something......anyone else solve this problem? Makes me think I would have to jack the engine up.


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## krid80 (Apr 16, 2008)

tblankenship said:


> I'm trying to replace the alternator on a 24V 2003 VR6. I'm trying to work from the bottom instead of removing the front. My problem is that the upper AC compressor bolt is too long to remove. I think I must be missing something......anyone else solve this problem? Makes me think I would have to jack the engine up.


Pull the front. Isn't nearly as bad as it looks. 

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using tapatalk.


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## Wance (Aug 3, 2010)

Fellas, if you pull the the intake manifold, do any of you change the green upper intake gaskets? I need to change my valve cover gasket and I'm wondering if I need to change them. They look rubber and I thought the "must change gasket policy" applied to the composite/metallic gaskets, so why not reuse the rubber ones?

Thoughts and/or preferences are appreciated!


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## 161324 (Jul 28, 2004)

Wance said:


> Fellas, if you pull the the intake manifold, do any of you change the green upper intake gaskets? I need to change my valve cover gasket and I'm wondering if I need to change them. They look rubber and I thought the "must change gasket policy" applied to the composite/metallic gaskets, so why not reuse the rubber ones?
> 
> Thoughts and/or preferences are appreciated!


I pulled the intake off several times and reused the gaskets.

I'll be doing the alternator this weekend.


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## kaka_kong (Aug 26, 2006)

Masace18 said:


> I wont say that this method of changing the alternator is stupid, but I will say that its very unnecessary. The only thing thats good about it is that it makes taking the actual alternator off much easier. An easier way to get to the alternator is to go from the bottom. First, remove the side piece of the engine cover on the passenger side and the release the tension on the belt. then remove the tensioner (3-13mm bolts) and then get under the car and take off the plastic guards (the one in the middle and the one on the drivers side.) then unbolt the power steering pump (5-13mm bolts) but dont disconnect any of the hoses. then use a wire or bungee cord to support it. Next, remove the bolts from the compressor, (2-16mm bolts) then let that suspend without disconnecting any hoses. now you're at the alternator theres a ground wire with an 8mm hex nut holding it on, a plastic connector and the power cord held on by a 13mm hex nut. The alternator itself is held on by 2 13mm bolts. once you have the bolts out and everything disconnected from the alternator its ready to come out. It takes a little maneuvering but it will come out i promise. just be careful and pay attention to what you're doing. I like this method better because it doesn’t require taking the ENTIRE FRONT END off. And as always, don’t forget to disconnect the battery!


Thank you.

I think that loosening the lock carrier and getting a few inches makes all the difference in the job. The hardest part was getting in-and-out the upper bolt of the AC Compressor. :banghead:

I didn't do anything with the secondary radiator or the hoses... no need to remove them to get out the alternator.

Oh, one more thing... the plastic wire harness going to the alt cracked. I could't get it off easily. Then while installing the refurb I cracked it some more. It lost a LOT of plastic internally and externally, but it's all still working. I put a little bit of "Goop" on it and everything is working.

My alt didn't fit at all (AdvanceAutoParts 120 amp refurb) so I had to Dremel the lugs a bit (hopefully not knocking off the alignment). 

DID ANYONE notice that while the alt spins quite freely, the AC Compressor, the Belt Tensioner and the Water Pump have a LOT of resistance on them?



What a pain in the neck job. Thanks to everyone for clues.


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## nyvwb4 (Nov 9, 2008)

kong- Yea PITA but it saved me 400.00 from the local foreign car ego maniac in town. He said it would be about a 600.00 jobn with out bnatting an eye. told me to get out of the way of the door as someone was walking by oon the street, but never came in anyway. 
As far as the resistance on the pulley's my AC spun easy, may be bad as my Ac is not working , will be looking into soon. resistance on the power steering pump..yes. didnt spin the water pump? should have. Belt tensioner not to bad.. I greased it up before reinstalling the Serp belt though. 
Went to alt from the bottom , had to hang the AC and PS pump and loosen motor maount a little. I think I could f=do the whole job in half the time now, maybe 3-4 hrs without rushing.


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## kaka_kong (Aug 26, 2006)

*still working*



nyvwb4 said:


> kong- Yea PITA but it saved me 400.00 from the local foreign car ego maniac in town. He said it would be about a 600.00 jobn with out bnatting an eye. told me to get out of the way of the door as someone was walking by oon the street, but never came in anyway.
> As far as the resistance on the pulley's my AC spun easy, may be bad as my Ac is not working , will be looking into soon. resistance on the power steering pump..yes. didnt spin the water pump? should have. Belt tensioner not to bad.. I greased it up before reinstalling the Serp belt though.
> Went to alt from the bottom , had to hang the AC and PS pump and loosen motor maount a little. I think I could f=do the whole job in half the time now, maybe 3-4 hrs without rushing.


 $600 upstate? That's crazy. I'm on LI and I can't believe it's been three months already, but I think my mechanic wanted about that much and I didn't have the budget so I did it myself. It was a pain. The battery was so discharged that I kept getting a battery warning light or ABS warning lights for a week or two, then they went away as the battery "recovered". In any case, I bought a new battery that's been sitting waiting to be installed. 

Did you loosen the dogbone and lift the engine a little? Or did you just move one of the motor mounts? Cheers 
I was concerned about that single wire harness I destroyed and was wondering if that was why I was getting all of the signals... but since everything is working I guess it's OK.


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## panran (Aug 14, 2007)

*Replacing alternator*

My alternator quit charging a while back so I was checking out this diy. I just replaced my thermostat housing 2 months before,and hated to drain my coolant again,so i thought I would try and see what was up. 2000 glx my bearing felt tight so I went with a new voltage regulator,and that seemed to fix my charging problem. What I tried was pulling my carrier out a little farther and was able to get my alt. past the compressor without draining the coolant,and without moving the power steering & ac compressor. That was a couple of weeks ago,took it chicago to denver and back no problems. Hope it helps out.


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## nyvwb4 (Nov 9, 2008)

kaka_kong said:


> $600 upstate? That's crazy. I'm on LI and I can't believe it's been three months already, but I think my mechanic wanted about that much and I didn't have the budget so I did it myself. It was a pain. The battery was so discharged that I kept getting a battery warning light or ABS warning lights for a week or two, then they went away as the battery "recovered". In any case, I bought a new battery that's been sitting waiting to be installed.
> 
> Did you loosen the dogbone and lift the engine a little? Or did you just move one of the motor mounts? Cheers
> I was concerned about that single wire harness I destroyed and was wondering if that was why I was getting all of the signals... but since everything is working I guess it's OK.


I loosened the top motor mount a little and put the pump jack under the engine with a block of wood on top of the jack to protect the oil pan IIRC and then was able to just barely pull the alt out/down and get the new one up in. Retighten the mount bolts as close to where they were when done. Once in a blue moon my battery light has come on but I think thats just the PCM checking things, if I turn the engine off and back on it disappears.


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## Martin Bigger (Apr 22, 2010)

*U DO NOT NEED to take the front end of the car off.*

I have a 12v vr6 in my 2000 Jetta and I managed to change the alternator in a parking lot with limited tools without taking the front end off. U just have to take out the windsheild washer fluid unbolt a couple lines for antifreeze. Unbolt the passenger engine mounts. And use a jack to raise the engine up just a bit. 

I managed to reach all the bolts and plugs on the alternator. It was tight but I would rather do it that way again instead of taking off the whole front end 

I'm not saying any way is particularly better but it is an option available if u need it


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## Wizzard (Jul 24, 2013)

Masace18 said:


> I wont say that this method of changing the alternator is stupid, but I will say that its very unnecessary. The only thing thats good about it is that it makes taking the actual alternator off much easier. An easier way to get to the alternator is to go from the bottom. First, remove the side piece of the engine cover on the passenger side and the release the tension on the belt. then remove the tensioner (3-13mm bolts) and then get under the car and take off the plastic guards (the one in the middle and the one on the drivers side.) then unbolt the power steering pump (5-13mm bolts) but dont disconnect any of the hoses. then use a wire or bungee cord to support it. Next, remove the bolts from the compressor, (2-16mm bolts) then let that suspend without disconnecting any hoses. now you're at the alternator theres a ground wire with an 8mm hex nut holding it on, a plastic connector and the power cord held on by a 13mm hex nut. The alternator itself is held on by 2 13mm bolts. once you have the bolts out and everything disconnected from the alternator its ready to come out. It takes a little maneuvering but it will come out i promise. just be careful and pay attention to what you're doing. I like this method better because it doesn’t require taking the ENTIRE FRONT END off. And as always, don’t forget to disconnect the battery!


I used this method this past weekend on an Mk4 exactly as written and it worked out beautifully and took a couple hours on jackstands (Thank you!). A couple of extra tips:

-Don't forget to un-clip the electrical harness that is mounted on top of the a/c compressor, if you just try to drop the compressor w/o doing this you will damage the wires/harness since there is not much wire slack on the harness.
-The wire harness/connector on the alternator becomes much easier to reach when you drop the alternator a bit after unbolting it, I was able to undo the connector at the top of the engine bay after resting the alternator at an angle against the frame rails from below the car.
-Regarding the top a/c bolt: When you loosen it just slide the bolt all the way back until it hits the frame rail...keep it against the frame rail as you work the compressor out. When putting the compressor back in just barely insert the bolt into the mounting ear of the compressor and make sure the head of the bolt keeps touching the frame rail as you work the compressor back into place, makes it hassle free as long as the upper bolt is contacting the frame rail on install & removal.


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## dasmann (Feb 17, 2014)

Thanks a lot. This helped. Here are some notes from my experience.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...alternator-change-DIY&p=84928205#post84928205 I


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## Boogie_manVR6 (Dec 31, 2013)

Masace18 said:


> I wont say that this method of changing the alternator is stupid, but I will say that its very unnecessary. The only thing thats good about it is that it makes taking the actual alternator off much easier. An easier way to get to the alternator is to go from the bottom. First, remove the side piece of the engine cover on the passenger side and the release the tension on the belt. then remove the tensioner (3-13mm bolts) and then get under the car and take off the plastic guards (the one in the middle and the one on the drivers side.) then unbolt the power steering pump (5-13mm bolts) but dont disconnect any of the hoses. then use a wire or bungee cord to support it. Next, remove the bolts from the compressor, (2-16mm bolts) then let that suspend without disconnecting any hoses. now you're at the alternator theres a ground wire with an 8mm hex nut holding it on, a plastic connector and the power cord held on by a 13mm hex nut. The alternator itself is held on by 2 13mm bolts. once you have the bolts out and everything disconnected from the alternator its ready to come out. It takes a little maneuvering but it will come out i promise. just be careful and pay attention to what you're doing. I like this method better because it doesn’t require taking the ENTIRE FRONT END off. And as always, don’t forget to disconnect the battery!


I must agree with this procedure as this is how I have done it a few times before without disassembling the entire front end and draining the entire cooling system. This step is also prescribed within the Bentley's manual itself. The only downside by removing the alternator from below is that you have very little space to work with and the job will take about 2-4 hours as well. Nonetheless you will not have to fiddle around the cooling system for sure as at times some of the plastic coupling then to break when you mess around with them.
There are different ways of solving the same problem, it's up to you how you will solve it.


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## VW_Alex_VR6 (Feb 26, 2017)

*Bolt Dimensions??*

Does anyone know what the bolt dimensions are and how many are needed for the front radiator mount? I believe it's T30 but I dont know the dimensions...

Even better, anyone know what size and how many bolts are needed for the complete replacement of the radiator? Like, what size and how many are needed to take everything off and put back on?

+1000 rep to anyone who can answer this for me!!


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## 01greengti (Jun 28, 2019)

*Don't disconnect radiator or remove fans. Get a second set of helping hands.*

After much time researching this in many posts I replaced my alternator this weekend in my '01 GTI 12V VR6. The plan was to remove the alternator out the bottom as many have described, but the outboard steering pump bolts wouldn't budge, nor would the bolts that hold on it's pulley, so it wasn't coming out. I therefore had no choice but to follow the front removal steps (though disconnecting motor mounts and raising the motor was a fallback last resort). 

So, well into the front removal, I found that once I got the front skin off and undid the bolts that mount the front fascia frame I could move the whole front section forward far enough to access the alternator and wiggle it up and out the front. It was tight but doable and at the limits of the hoses reach. Didn't drain or disconnect the radiator, didn't remove the fans, didn't have to raise the motor on the passenger side. However it did take the help of my son as there were many times when the free alternator on the way out and back had to be held while also holding the loose front frame, especially when disconnecting and reconnecting wires. This would be very difficult if not dangerous to tackle alone. It also helped to remove the passenger wheel and inside fender cover to gain access to the belt, but it could have been done without that.

This picture shows how far I was able to move the front section forward to get the alternator out and in.










The job took best part of a day, but that included going down the steering pump removal path and doing a u-turn. Also repacked the idler pulley bearings while in there, cleaned up some of the PO's wiring on the headlamps and did an oilchange, so it could have been faster.









Hope this helps the next guy keep his/her Mk4 VR6 going strong.


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