# I need to pump my clutch for it to work, whats up with it?



## klove614 (Jan 5, 2010)

In my '03 six gear 20th the clutch has been messing up lately. When I first get into my car and press clutch, it goes all the way down without any pressure. I have to pump it numerous times for it to start working properly. When i'm driving and without using the clutch for a while, it goes back to not having any pressure again, and I need to pump it again. The clutch feels short/small then I pump it and it goes back to normal. It's a stock clutch and I don't know if it's ever been replaced. When it's working properly, it shifts nice and smoothly, so I don't believe the clutch is going out. Any ideas?


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## slawny091 (Jan 18, 2009)

so your pedal is getting stuck to the floor? have you been losing fluid?


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## klove614 (Jan 5, 2010)

slawny091 said:


> so your pedal is getting stuck to the floor? have you been losing fluid?


It doesn't get stuck, it slowly comes back. I haven't checked for leaks but I don't think i'm losing any. I did replace the brake fluid though.


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## slawny091 (Jan 18, 2009)

try bleeding the clutch, seems like there might be air in the line.


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## FACTORYBOOST (Sep 12, 2011)

slawny091 said:


> try bleeding the clutch, seems like there might be air in the line.


You either need a vac bleeder or another foot to help you with this. 
I would definitely check the fluid and try bleeding it before taking drastic measures


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## klove614 (Jan 5, 2010)

Could it be I need a transmission fluid change? Or is it for sure clutch bleed, because that looks tough.


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## Blk95VR6 (Nov 9, 2000)

If you need to pump your clutch to make it work properly then you have a problem (almost 100% certain) with either air in the line OR you have a slave cylinder on the way out. It is not a transmission fluid related problem, as they are two separate systems and completely sealed away from each other.

Legal disclaimer: Do this only if you have an idea of what you're doing. If you don't, take it to someone who does and pay them to fix it. I will not be responsible for you messing something up on your car (or surrounding you prior to, during, or after the conduct of the procedure), or causing damage to you, your friends, family, acquaintances, or anyone else that is assisting you in accomplishing this. I offer this only as a suggestion on how to fix the "supposed air in the line" problem. 

Have some (proper) brake fluid on hand to top of the reservoir just in case you need it. Otherwise, you're simply introducing more air into the line as you drain the reservoir to fill the line. 

Get a friend (or spouse, relative, whomever you feel is competent enough to help you) to sit in the car and pump the clutch until it "feels" right. Get a shop rag (one that you don't mind getting ruined by brake fluid), a 9mm socket and ratchet, and find the bleeder valve on the clutch line (hint: it's next to the transmission, and you can follow the hard line down from the master cylinder to it; it'll have a small rubber cap over the top of it to keep dirt/debris out of the opening). When you have found the bleeder valve and removed the car, place the socket/ratchet on the cap, place the rag over the entire assembly (as brake fluid could very well spray into your face and eyes, and it is not a pleasant feeling), and have your friend push and hold the clutch to the floor. When they have it depressed as far as they can, slowly open the bleeder valve until you hear air escape (you may or may not hear it, but if it's under pressure you WILL hear it, it will make a spitting sound as it escapes). Hold it open for a couple of seconds longer to allow fluid to escape out of the valve as well, as the air is normally in front of the fluid, preventing the clutch pedal from engaging fully or correctly. When you are satisfied that there is no more air in the line, shut the valve by tightening it back up (not overly tight or you will damage it) and have your friend return the pedal to its' normal position. Now, see if the pedal will function normally; if it does you have successfully bled your clutch; if not, see if there is more air in the line. If, after all this has been tried, you still don't have a "normal" clutch, take it to a mechanic and have it professonally diagnosed. It'll cost you some money in the beginning, but in the end you'll (probably) be better off...


Just my .02, take it for what it's worth (or not)...


Mike


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## slawny091 (Jan 18, 2009)

FACTORYBOOST said:


> You either need a vac bleeder or another foot to help you with this.


i bled my entire clutch system myself, it can be done. 

all you need is a syringe to bench bleed the slave (if its installed in the car already) so that you can get all the air out of it, then just bleed it with a power bleeder.


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## klove614 (Jan 5, 2010)

Blk95VR6 said:


> Just my .02, take it for what it's worth (or not)...
> 
> Mike


 Thanks for the write up. I bleed the clutch, but air is still getting into the lines. It's more than likely a cracked slave cylinder. What's the average price on slave cylinder replacement?


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## Blk95VR6 (Nov 9, 2000)

I would say to budget between 500.00 to 2500.00 for the procedure, and explain below how I came about those numbers. 

Replacing the slave cylinder on an O2M "can" be a pricey endeavor, as it involves removing the transmission to get it out (it's inside the bellhousing); if you check the Regional forums you could probably find someone to help you with it, or if you're completely "un"mechanically inclined, do not even attempt this, simply get an estimate from a competent repair shop (probably NOT a big box shop that does everything (e.g. brakes, mufflers, oil changes AND transmission work)); not knocking big box repair places, but you'd be better served by having it done by a transmission place, and one that specializes in VWs to boot. If you go to the dealer you'll pay more (maybe a LOT more) but you can almost guarantee that a qualified technician will do this job and do it right. Now, that said, I've seen and heard horror stories on how people took their cars to VW and had work done, only to have it be returned as bad, or even worse, than when they took it in, so "forewarned is forearmed". 

My best advice to you is: IF you decide that you do NOT want to attempt this, call the dealer, and tell them you need a slave cylinder replaced on an O2M transmission (in a xxxx, with "xxxx" being the year of the car) and see if they are willing to give you a (ballpark probably, as they don't know everything that's wrong or they'll have to possibly replace) price. If (and when) they give you a price, it'll probably be on the high end of what it would cost out in town, and at least you'll have an idea of what to expect... 


Mike


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