# How would you go about getting 300 whp in a 225qc



## hiplazma (May 31, 2009)

I am thinking about getting a 225qc as a project car with the goal of around 300 whp. How would you guys go about getting it? I will be doing most of the work myself so I like bolt-ons. I have installed a k04-001 on my gti and have heard that the 225 has better internals than the 180 so what would be the safe limit on the 225. Thanks for your help :beer:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Check out the FAQ... The motor internals really aren't all that different. A .6 drop in compression ratio & 20mm wrist pins on the pistons/rods. 

You're going to need to decide on the direction you want to go in. Full bolt on's with conventional gas and no water/meth injection will net you 230awhp and around 280/ft lbs torque.

You can:

A. get a custom tune (Maestro), water injection or alternative fuel and make power. I think Max was up around 300awhp & 350 ft/lbs torque- a very fun car, I've been behind the wheel a few times. I'm sure he will chime in about his setup.

B. Get a larger turbo/manifold - it's going to cost you more but, you can run regular gas and make 300awhp easily. There will be a sacrifice in low end power and turbo spool time.

C. Be happy with the K04- 230awhp isn't that slow for this chassis. It will be slower than your lighter FWD K04 20th, but will be more fun due to the added AWD grip and you can put the power down all the time. It will be faster than your old R32 with cams- I'm not sure about with a S/C.


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## hiplazma (May 31, 2009)

Thank for the info I did read the FAQ but not a whole lot of info on the 225 I already knew about the the limited space do to the haldex and the 022 placement. I just miss awd that I had in my .:R and want some thing that I can out run my buddies new beattle mkii that thing is fast with it stg 2 tune. I am currently putting down 239hp on my 20th but have alway like the way the tt looks.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Yup this car is fun to drive...

My best friend has a mk4 R32 with cams and I love driving that thing too. I just highly prefer the interior of the TT due to the small windows and cockpit like feel. If I needed a daily though and had the money a mk4 R would be high on my list.


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

The myth that the TT225 has better internals simply isn't true. The conrods on that car are every bit as susceptible to breaking as the "inferior" 19mm units on your AWP-engined car. So if you want 300whp on a stock motor, you will need software that can modulate power delivery so torque levels never exceed safe levels. That's not possible on a manual boost controller, and most off-the-shelf software will land you shy of your hp goal. You're looking at custom mapping or Maestro. 

And a new turbo.


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## BigBlackTiTTy (Sep 25, 2009)

honestly im not a big turbo high horsepower kinda guy. 

BUT,,, i have friends that are and from what i have heard and listen to them go on and on about 

fwd your pretty much limited to about 200 ish whp to really enjoy it anything more the wheels just cant keep it down and it becomes lame or cool if your that kinda guy. but my point is you cant compare the fwd to the awd of the tt. it will be a totally dif experience 

if you want huge power. get a 180 quattro and get a apr stage 3. its expensive. but i know 3 people that have it 2 in TT's and one in a mkiv jetta 
its about as close to bolt on as your going to get for huge power. 
you can go with all the different turbos and try and get someone to make you some software, but if it were me and i wanted power and didnt want to f*** about. thats what i would do. 

if you get a 225 quattro, i wouldnt change the turbo do everything to the engine but change the turbo. software some engine goodies and turbo back exhaust. youre going to get much more reliability and more bang for your buck. it wont be anywhere near 300hp but it will be fun.


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## mbaron (Aug 21, 2008)

I would sell it and buy an EVO.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

BigBlackTiTTy said:


> if you want huge power.....and get a apr stage 3.


 "Huge power" and "APR stage 3" are in no way related and should not be used together.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> "Huge power" and "APR stage 3" are in no way related and should not be used together.


 :laugh:

Dollars to power APR makes the least cents


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## BigBlackTiTTy (Sep 25, 2009)

didnt say it was best value for power. just said it was the one with the least amount of fuss. 

im not going to shell out that kind of $ for it. but from what ive seen. its the only one that "sorta" works compared to what else is out there and other options for more than chipped 225 with standard k04 . 

everyone i know and have seen that throws in big turbos, are still trying to get them to work right. no one is ever satisfied. at least with the apr they have matched the software to the turbo and components 

and i also said it was as close to a bolt on kit as you could get. 

but in no way am i saying APR is great ..I REVO software , and i had apr first. so what does that tell you. 



20v master said:


> "Huge power" and "APR stage 3" are in no way related and should not be used together.


 well ok huge power is not the best wording, however 300 hp on our TT is pretty big power. our cars are not fast nor will they ever be fast. they can be quick. but not fast. and ive never seen a 400hp tt that worked after 15 mins of driving. when you get into those crazy numbers, your pretty crazy, and i will admit i do love watching it. but im waiting to see the motor go kaboom,.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

mbaron said:


> I would sell it and buy an EVO.


 This should be the answer to every car goal! 

To the OP, I make over 300 whp in my TT with the stock turbo and regardless of your path you should be looking into upgrading the rods, unless (as Doug H suggested) you plan to numb down the boost/TQ and give up on half the fun and responsiveness of the setup. My rods bent at 360 AWTQ, which is about the TQ needed to make the stock turbo reach 300 whp. The hybrid solutions like the F23 will make it easier to reach your goal but without rods, you're limiting the potential at onset where it counts the most.


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## hiplazma (May 31, 2009)

So a 180 Quattro would be easier to obtain my goal if I would have todo rods anyways?


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

BigBlackTiTTy said:


> ....300 hp on our TT is pretty big power. our cars are not fast nor will they ever be fast. they can be quick. but not fast.













This is plenty fast enough.


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## toy4two2 (Feb 6, 2012)

*E85*

I'm in Cali so big turbo upgrade is out due to SMOG checks every 24 monthes. I can't find any CARB certified turbo kits, removing and replacing just to pass smog isn't an option for me. 

However, the gas station 1 block away now sells E85. Is there any FAQs or websites on how I can run E85 on my 225 and then switch back and forth with my STOCK ECU (I actually have a APR Stage 1 chip which I switch back to Stock on smog test day)? Is this just a pipe dream and I'm stuck with 257hp here in Cali?


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## hiplazma (May 31, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> This is plenty fast enough.


 
would this be a straight bolt on to a 225 or are rods recommended?


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## toy4two2 (Feb 6, 2012)

*E85 blueprint*

nm I found the E85 blueprint for the 1.8T motor :heart: 

time to get some injectors 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4782217


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> This is plenty fast enough.


 Other Doug- this looks like a 3rd gear pull. Wouldn't a 4th gear run be more 1:1 ratio. This is what I've always been told at least? If not someone explain this one to me!



hiplazma said:


> So a 180 Quattro would be easier to obtain my goal if I would have todo rods anyways?


 You will have to do rods in both motors.
Differences between the cars are 5spd vs. 6spd and brake sizes I believe, but those are obviously easy and cheap to swap if you choose to or have other plans for them.
I think people say get a 180Q because they sell cheaper- if you're swapping the turbo already it leaves you with more money to spend.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

toy4two2 said:


> nm I found the E85 blueprint for the 1.8T motor :heart:
> 
> time to get some injectors
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4782217


 Some more help in this old thread of mine (there is a link to the original E85 discussion, as well as Jeff's AKA ForceFed4 how-to). 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5271998-Madmax-E85-tuning-notes&highlight=E85 

Here is what my E85 final setting looks like, so you have an idea of the possibilities (especially timing at +13.5 degrees of advance). I am sure the cranking and warm up enrichments will come in handy for you. You could also use the fuel enrichments under acceleration and decelaration as a benchmark . The values in the primary and secondary channels, you should really use as your target if you are using a 225 with bolt-ons and 26+ psi of boost. 



 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us 
 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/QUOTE] 

This is what my overall timing curve looks like on E85 at 30+ psi and zero timing correction. The fuel is so good with its knock threshold that some knuckle heads in the 1.8t world think that the knock sensors don't work with E85 :laugh: 



This is what my final timing curves looks like at 30+ psi (I have virtually zero timing pull throughout) 
Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

hiplazma said:


> would this be a straight bolt on to a 225 or are rods recommended?


 That's on a VW car with an F23, pump gas, low boost and stock 19mm rods (I was there when it was on the rollers so I can confirm that it's legit). The potential of the mighty F23 is serious (especially if add corn to the mix)


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

DougLoBue said:


> You will have to do rods in both motors.
> Differences between the cars are 5spd vs. 6spd and brake sizes I believe, but those are obviously easy and cheap to swap if you choose to or have other plans for them.
> I think people say get a 180Q because they sell cheaper- if you're swapping the turbo already it leaves you with more money to spend.


 If ultimate power potential is the goal, the 225 is much better. If anyone says otherwise it is because they don't know what it takes to make real power. The lower compression on the 225 gives a lot more room to be aggressive with the tune. You can push boost and timing to levels that would be a knock fest on the higher compression combo. The added block structural webbing gives some peace of mind and tells you that Audi engineers prioritized on the superior power potential. I'm not saying that the higher compression motor doesn't have its advantages but ultimate power is *not* one of them!


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> If ultimate power potential is the goal, the 225 is much better. If anyone says otherwise it is because they don't know what it takes to make real power. The lower compression on the 225 gives a lot more room to be aggressive with the tune. You can push boost and timing to levels that would be a knock fest on the higher compression combo. The added block structural webbing gives some peace of mind and tells you that Audi engineers prioritized on the superior power potential. I'm not saying that the higher compression motor doesn't have its advantages but ultimate power is *not* one of them!


 This is in no way shape or form the truth in this day and age. .


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

ejg3855 said:


> This is in no way shape or form the truth in this day and age. .


 I know my statement would be controversial but how many have actually flirted with the limit of the motor in both configurations? My guess is not many... I have first hand pushed until I found MBT on the 225 motor and that came with 33-34 psi of boost at 3k. Find a 1.8t motor with the increased compression and a small port that does that and you will make me a believer. 

I went through the same thing with the EVOs (had 2 of them and played with and tuned many that are raced competitively). I can tell you from experience that regardless of the technology, once you increase the compression you close the window of what's possible in terms of tuning. Think about it, you have a limit of X amount of cyl pressure you can take before lifting the head or detonating and even pre-igniting (different events). If you increase the pressure (with all else equal) via compression, that leaves you with less room for boost and timing, correct? Well, timing and boost always make more power than compression alone and at a ratio of 2:1 at least when tuned properly. 

Find me a 180 motor with increased compression (small port head obviously, as the head design play a big role on the knock threshold ) with only rods, that can take that much timing at the bottom of its curve and you get a cookie :laugh: 

BTW, I love having real technical discussions with knowledgeable people like you, something that some members get defensive about. :beer: 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

*FV-QR*

I am not sure what MBT is. 

I recall Josh running E85 and pushing soundly 35psi on his K03s until his rods ate it.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

ejg3855 said:


> I am not sure what MBT is.
> 
> I recall Josh running E85 and pushing soundly 35psi on his K03s until his rods ate it.


 Yes, Josh pushed the boost on the motor but never even came close in terms of timing advance especially down low. Once you add real boost to insane timing, that is where you will find the limit of the cylinder head design and effect of the CR. Trust me, increasing the compression only reduces how far you can go until you reach that limit. 

MBT, in simple terms, is the most amount of timing advance that the head/combustion chamber will take to make the best torque at a certain compression ratio. This value is independent o the fuel used (most pump and some race fuel will detonate before MBT is reached). To find MBT you need to increase the timing advance until you reach the point where adding more timing means less torque and increased cylinder pressures and EGT (best found on a dyno where TQ figures can be closely monitored). :beer:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

ejg3855 said:


> I am not sure what MBT is.
> 
> I recall Josh running E85 and pushing soundly 35psi on his K03s until his rods ate it.


 Mean Best Torque. And Josh never ran the boost that high.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

20v master said:


> Mean Best Torque. And Josh never ran the boost that high.


 That is correct Adam, I just never liked the Mean in the definition. Things would be a lot clearer to a lot of people if the term was "Timing for Best Torque" and I've been know to swap "Maximum" in the abbreviation for simplicity


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

20v master said:


> Mean Best Torque. And Josh never ran the boost that high.


 Ah I just asked him but hes slow to respond to the text's today. 

He did achieve pumping losses on the head with E85 as I recall though, so much timing that he reached the limitations of the cams/head. That is I think what happened?


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> That is correct Adam, I just never liked the Mean in the definition. Things would be a lot clearer to a lot of people if the term was "Timing for Best Torque" and I've been know to swap "Maximum" in the abbreviation for simplicity


 Correct. It's the perfect ignition timing to produce the most possible torque based on angle of the con rod at the instant spark occurs. The problem with it being a "value" is it changes with fuel being used (due to flame front propagation speed) and the rpm (as the flame speed is constant, ie doesn't care how fast the piston is going, but the speed of the piston isn't, obviously different at different rpms). 

And Josh spiked to 30 psi as a max.


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## BigBlackTiTTy (Sep 25, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> This is plenty fast enough.


 yes i agree this is very fast. was this on a TT or a VW ? 
and do you know roughly how much all this cost? 

if you think about it though... in my logic. if you want 300 hp get a porsche. you can get a 996 for pretty decent price these days too. are they better looking. no . but they handle better than a tt will. and thats bone stock. reliability is much much better too, than adding a huge turbo to your 1.8t 


but those numbers off that f23 is pretty impressive. i wonder what the reliablity will be like.


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

BigBlackTiTTy said:


> didnt say it was best value for power. just said it was the one with the least amount of fuss.
> 
> im not going to shell out that kind of $ for it. but from what ive seen. its the only one that "sorta" works compared to what else is out there and other options for more than chipped 225 with standard k04 .
> 
> ...


 I got one that will be coming out soon and youll eat those words 



Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Yes, Josh pushed the boost on the motor but never even came close in terms of timing advance especially down low. Once you add real boost to insane timing, that is where you will find the limit of the cylinder head design and effect of the CR. Trust me, increasing the compression only reduces how far you can go until you reach that limit.
> 
> MBT, in simple terms, is the most amount of timing advance that the head/combustion chamber will take to make the best torque at a certain compression ratio. This value is independent o the fuel used (most pump and some race fuel will detonate before MBT is reached). To find MBT you need to increase the timing advance until you reach the point where adding more timing means less torque and increased cylinder pressures and EGT (best found on a dyno where TQ figures can be closely monitored). :beer:


 i ran pretty significant amount of timing. on top of that timing there was a down low spike of an easy 30psi resulting in 330 wtq. 



20v master said:


> Mean Best Torque. And Josh never ran the boost that high.


 pretty close to it the gauge stopped at 30psi. Ive ran 60 in the truck  



20v master said:


> Correct. It's the perfect ignition timing to produce the most possible torque based on angle of the con rod at the instant spark occurs. The problem with it being a "value" is it changes with fuel being used (due to flame front propagation speed) and the rpm (as the flame speed is constant, ie doesn't care how fast the piston is going, but the speed of the piston isn't, obviously different at different rpms).
> 
> And Josh spiked to 30 psi as a max.


 Eric i never tossed a rod. Matter of fact i still have them on display in the man cave lol. I dropped a valve from revving to 8200 at the track road racing for 15 min sessions. About 12min into it an exhaust valve separated into two pieces. 

Highest E85 dyno i achieved was 250/330 *YES STOCK RODS* 









However I plan to run some corn in the E85 but not straight as i would need like 1600 CC injectors and another pump. The 35R, SEM and 80mm throttle body should make it more than fun and in excess of 450.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

BigBlackTiTTy said:


> ive never seen a 400hp tt that worked after 15 mins of driving. when you get into those crazy numbers, your pretty crazy, and i will admit i do love watching it. but im waiting to see the motor go kaboom,.


 I must be absolutely insane then: My 460awhp TT is daily driven... I'm trying to prove good parts + good tune = lots of power and reliable, what it isn't is cheap. Planning to hit 500awhp and keep driving it.

In the last 5k I've been on a bunch of road trips to: Philadelphia, Delaware & All over NE/SE PA for a TT cruise. On these drives a few members of this forum can vouch for me- I'm not nice to my car. 30psi and foot to the floor half the time. The one issue I had on my last trip was I blew out my wideband sensor when two step launching the car while the 02 sensor heater was running. Opps.


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

DougLoBue said:


> I must be absolutely insane then: My 460awhp TT is daily driven... I'm trying to prove good parts + good tune = lots of power and reliable, what it isn't is cheap. Planning to hit 500awhp and keep driving it.
> 
> In the last 5k I've been on a bunch of road trips to: Philadelphia, Delaware & All over NE/SE PA for a TT cruise. On these drives a few members of this forum can vouch for me- I'm not nice to my car. 30psi and foot to the floor half the time. The one issue I had on my last trip was I blew out my wideband sensor when two step launching the car while the 02 sensor heater was running. Opps.


 how hard you launching? just curious as i need to set up my two step as well.


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## BigBlackTiTTy (Sep 25, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> I must be absolutely insane then: My 460awhp TT is daily driven... I'm trying to prove good parts + good tune = lots of power and reliable, what it isn't is cheap. Planning to hit 500awhp and keep driving it.
> 
> In the last 5k I've been on a bunch of road trips to: Philadelphia, Delaware & All over NE/SE PA for a TT cruise. On these drives a few members of this forum can vouch for me- I'm not nice to my car. 30psi and foot to the floor half the time. The one issue I had on my last trip was I blew out my wideband sensor when two step launching the car while the 02 sensor heater was running. Opps.


 you're crazy ! :laugh:opcorn:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

theswoleguy said:


> how hard you launching? just curious as i need to set up my two step as well.


 I'm finding that 5.2k is a good number. 4.8k isn't enough and 5.5k generates a lot of spin. I think it depends on clutch material/pp/tires/driver though?

Also sidenote: I am running E85 in my car as well. ID1000's ran at 4bar for 1k cc output and haven't ran out of fuel at 30psi yet. I did get a high flow inline pump by fuelab but you're going to need some type of inline pump anyway if you want to make 450whp on gasoline.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

theswoleguy said:


> i ran pretty significant amount of timing. on top of that timing there was a down low spike of an easy 30psi resulting in 330 wtq.


 Nice, I see that Eric dragged you on this neck of the woods... 

How much advance were you able to hold at the bottom of the timing curve (Peak TQ)? 

I'm curious to see how much more the lower compression is affording us 225 guys on a fuel that won't knock even past MBT. BTW your numbers were quite impressive considering the smaller K03 snail.


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Nice, I see that Eric dragged you on this neck of the woods...
> 
> How much advance were you able to hold at the bottom of the timing curve (Peak TQ)?
> 
> I'm curious to see how much more the lower compression is affording us 225 guys on a fuel that won't knock even past MBT. BTW your numbers were quite impressive considering the smaller K03 snail.


I should be over here some too now i guess since i have a TT and the Rcar project, virtually the same car.

here is my thread with the logs, most are on the first page for reference. Credit to adam for making pretty logs.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3866545-E85-630s-Walbro-Inline-18-Gurus-Come-all.

I know my TT runs 8.5:1 and cams. Even Pete (O2VW1.8t) ran stupid timing even on pump on a similar setup w/o corn. I imagine corn will be stupid and you would find the limits of the head studs before the corn in regards to a huge turbo + Mad boost + corn.


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## WickedWorksVW (May 15, 2005)

So even with rods, pistons, and arp the head people are still blowing the motor? I was looking at doing a f23 on pump and was hoping to get close to that 300 awhp mark and be a good autocross car.


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

people make 450+ on stock motor with just drop in rods

Sent from my phone forgive auto correct errors


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## WickedWorksVW (May 15, 2005)

ok im sure its a dumb question to most of ya'll but if you get 20mm wrist pin rods, you need pistons to go with them right?


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

WickedWorksVW said:


> ok im sure its a dumb question to most of ya'll but if you get 20mm wrist pin rods, you need pistons to go with them right?


if your gonna get rods get forged rods if your going into a 225 just the rods are needed as the pistons are already forged.. but i know max or some one with more knowledge will be able to say for sure how much they can handle.. but a 180 will need both pistons and rods....


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

ejg3855 said:


> people make 450+ on stock motor with just drop in rods
> 
> Sent from my phone forgive auto correct errors


some people do 400 on no stock rods  and 330tq at 2500 



1fast2liter said:


> if your gonna get rods get forged rods if your going into a 225 just the rods are needed as the pistons are already forged.. but i know max or some one with more knowledge will be able to say for sure how much they can handle.. but a 180 will need both pistons and rods....


ummmm :what: does the 180 have different pistons than the vw 1.8t? bc last i check those are just fine unless you are going for some stupid power levels.... plenty of guys are doing 500 on OEM pistons. Just drop in rods and as long as the pistons are fine (which they should or you have other issues) clean them up, re-ring them, hone and go.


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## WickedWorksVW (May 15, 2005)

So if I keep the stock pistons do I get 20mm wrist pins or 19mm?


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

WickedWorksVW said:


> So if I keep the stock pistons do I get 20mm wrist pins or 19mm?


225 = 20mm wrist pins. 180 = 19mm wrist pins. You can get aftermarket rods for either set of pistons. Your sig/info doesn't indicate what car you have.


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## WickedWorksVW (May 15, 2005)

Thank you! I have a 225. Any diss advantage to going with a 9.2:1 piston with the frankenturbo?


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

I think the stock compression will be easier to tune. High compression and high boost are tricky to reconcile and you'll be fighting the hardware. And the advantages of higher compression are less meaningful on a quick-spooling turbo. Save your money and keep the car's pistons.


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> I think the stock compression will be easier to tune. High compression and high boost are tricky to reconcile and you'll be fighting the hardware. And the advantages of higher compression are less meaningful on a quick-spooling turbo. Save your money and keep the car's pistons.


10.5:1 25psi and E85 lol go baby go!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

theswoleguy said:


> 10.5:1 25psi and E85 lol go baby go!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


NOOOO, 9.0:1 35 psi and timing right under MBT on E85 is where it's at


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> NOOOO, 9.0:1 35 psi and timing right under MBT on E85 is where it's at


how about 8.5:1 and 40psi on e85 :laugh:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

DougLoBue said:


> how about 8.5:1 and 40psi on e85 :laugh:


If we are going down that lane, 8.5:1 stroker then (kit avalaible from IE) ... :laugh:


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> If we are going down that lane, 8.5:1 stroker then (kit avalaible from IE) ... :laugh:


i have you all beat... 18.5:1, 6.0L, 60 psi on diesel


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

theswoleguy said:


> i have you all beat... 18.5:1, 6.0L, 60 psi on diesel


Nobody cares about your stupid truck (that breaks more than your GTI).


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

60psi


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

20v master said:


> Nobody cares about your stupid truck (that breaks more than your GTI).


except the gti doesnt exist anymore.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

ejg3855 said:


> except the gti doesnt exist anymore.


Okay, then substitute two TT's for one GTI. :laugh: Do any of them run?


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

*FV-QR*

Pretty sure he has a non-running TT a non-running .:R and a truck that might work.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

ejg3855 said:


> Pretty sure he has a non-running TT a non-running .:R and a truck that might work.


I guess that's why he's always bringing up the truck. :laugh:


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

20v master said:


> Nobody cares about your stupid truck (that breaks more than your GTI).


nothing is wrong with the truck



01ttgt28 said:


> 60psi


meh not that impressive 



ejg3855 said:


> except the gti doesnt exist anymore.


yea the GTI has been gone, R chassis now



20v master said:


> Okay, then substitute two TT's for one GTI. :laugh: Do any of them run?


the TT is waiting on parts from Arnold at Pag nothing i can do about that



ejg3855 said:


> Pretty sure he has a non-running TT a non-running .:R and a truck that might work.


R isnt running bc i was unsure of having a job upon graduation - intern status. Savings goes to emergency and not toys since this economy nothing is 100%. Now that i got an offer letter two weeks ago I can start working on the R again.



20v master said:


> I guess that's why he's always bringing up the truck. :laugh:


truck is fun in its own right... really wish i had parts for the TT. Arnold has had some family emergencies and other setbacks. Not really been a good year for him so far it seems. Trust me at roughly $4.00-4.20 /gal and getting 15mpg sucks. I am ready to have the TT running.


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