# Please help! 28psi spikes with K04, at only 55% Wastegate Duty Cycle..?



## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

Hey guys.. Hoping you can share your thoughts on this weird issue I'm having.

Just got a K04 kit installed (a la CTS Turbo) and some vag com logs revealed something odd.. With the tune, my boost would shoot up and shoot back down, causing severe power surges until the revs climbed close to redline. My wastegate duty cycle was like a massive zig zag. To combat this until I find potential hardware issues, my tuner made me a custom file limiting the n75 to 60% load.. Well now I'm spiking up to 2800mbar (I have a Golf R MAP sensor installed, so vag-come will show boost pressure this high), and only holding about 14 psi by the time I reach redline. Thing is, my requested vs actual is on par for the whole pull. 

Can anybody shed any light on what my issue might be...? Seems like it's a unique one. Thanks in advance!

Cheers :beer:


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## GolfRS (Feb 4, 2006)

Most probably your wastegate actuator needs adjusting OR you are using a
too hard spring in it.

Start from there.


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

GolfRS said:


> Most probably your wastegate actuator needs adjusting OR you are using a
> too hard spring in it.
> 
> Start from there.


Hey man thanks for the reply.

I was hoping a wastegate adjustment would be the last thing to look at.. My boost requested vs actual is what it should be, except for the big spike. The boost tapers off to like 15psi by redline, but that is requested.

I know I don't have any leaks. The system is tight and ran absolutely perfect with the K03. 

I'll start calling some shops and see if they can adjust the waste gate actuator, I'm not too interested in doing that myself. The K04 I have is a brand new, unmolested one from CTS Turbo, so I don't think the spring would need changing.. I don't know of anyone that had to do that for their K04


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## GolfRS (Feb 4, 2006)

3MPG said:


> Hey man thanks for the reply.
> 
> I was hoping a wastegate adjustment would be the last thing to look at.. My boost requested vs actual is what it should be, except for the big spike. The boost tapers off to like 15psi by redline, but that is requested.
> 
> ...


The overboosting is caused by the inability of the N75 to catch up to the increasing boost that only
takes effect higher in the rev range, hence the spike.

That is most of the times caused by an overtightened actuator (or maybe a faulty one ?) but
it could also be caused (i guess) by a malfunctioning N75 (or possibly a loose vacuum line ?).

It seems the turbo is running on spring pressure maybe, and 15 psi could be the rating
for the spring.

All of the above is just speculation of course but you should start by checking all lines,
swap a N75, and then check/adjust the actuator.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

3MPG said:


> Hey man thanks for the reply.
> 
> I was hoping a wastegate adjustment would be the last thing to look at.. My boost requested vs actual is what it should be, except for the big spike. The boost tapers off to like 15psi by redline, but that is requested.
> 
> ...


Sounds like you need to get a little familiar with your setup. WG actuator adjustment does NOT require a shop. Simplest of hand tools and a little reading. Paying someone to do that is not necessary. Find out what pressure that spring is set at by running from the actuator inlet directly to your charge pipe. This should tell you what the spring is preloaded to. My guess is that youve got the adjustment too tight.


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

GolfRS said:


> The overboosting is caused by the inability of the N75 to catch up to the increasing boost that only
> takes effect higher in the rev range, hence the spike.
> 
> That is most of the times caused by an overtightened actuator (or maybe a faulty one ?) but
> ...


I've checked all the lines for crimps and cracks, and could not find anything.. The *only* thing that is not "normal" is the fact that there is a small screw hose clamp on the n75 hose, as opposed to those permanent crimp clamps. It broke, somehow, during installation.. The hose clamp is tight, and don't see it causing any leaks or anything. Although, it is suspicious. 

As for swapping the N75, I may try that with my old K03 N75 and see what happens. But the one that is being used now is also 100% brand new.. 



warranty225cpe said:


> Sounds like you need to get a little familiar with your setup. WG actuator adjustment does NOT require a shop. Simplest of hand tools and a little reading. Paying someone to do that is not necessary. Find out what pressure that spring is set at by running from the actuator inlet directly to your charge pipe. This should tell you what the spring is preloaded to. My guess is that youve got the adjustment too tight.


In all honesty I've only had this car for a year and am not totally familiar with it, or turbocharged cars as a whole. I'm learning but not quite there yet; adjusting the wastegate is, from what I've heard, tedious work that requires trial and error to a degree. Just not something I'm comfortable doing, yet.


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

Sorry I suck at graphing.. But here's my boost with N75 in a separate chart. Keep in mind the y axis label does not go to 100..

I did the pull starting at 4000RPM to protect my bottom end.. The boost builds insanely quick

boost









n75


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## GolfRS (Feb 4, 2006)

According to your graph you are actualy running 1.5+ something bar of peak boost
that tapers to 0.8 smth at redline.

The numbers you see in VCDS correspond to actual (gauge) pressure -
1000mbar so 2500-1000=1.5 bar.

You have no issues, if anything you are running a "weak" file.


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

GolfRS said:


> According to your graph you are actualy running 1.5+ something bar of peak boost
> that tapers to 0.8 smth at redline.
> 
> The numbers you see in VCDS correspond to actual (gauge) pressure -
> ...


Yes, you're right except this is all happening with only 55-60% waste gate duty cycle.. When I run the tune that has a normal 95% duty cycle to build boost, the n75 log looks like a giant zig zag and I can violent surges in power.. 


Tapatalkin


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

Here is a pull I did previous to the one I just posted. Sorry I don't have engine RPM, but it started at 4000 just like the other one and ended at 6600 or so. Huge spike, 2800mbar+


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

Anyone else have anything to share.. Desperately trying to figure this out.. Had the K04 in for 3 weeks now and still have a slower car than what it was before.. :banghead::banghead:


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

Your n75 dc appears to be working properly, just with low numbers. I don't know if they would be lower with a k04 compared to a k03 or not. 

I this were my car, I would look at the wg actuator adjustment. Seems like it is too tight like others have said. My wg dc went down a lot when I tightened mine. Now it's too tight and in higher gears in this cold weather it spikes then drops right down to 5psi. 

You have to either check the cracking pressure or adjust the nut on the arm.


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

Tutti57 said:


> Your n75 dc appears to be working properly, just with low numbers. I don't know if they would be lower with a k04 compared to a k03 or not.
> 
> I this were my car, I would look at the wg actuator adjustment. Seems like it is too tight like others have said. My wg dc went down a lot when I tightened mine. Now it's too tight and in higher gears in this cold weather it spikes then drops right down to 5psi.
> 
> You have to either check the cracking pressure or adjust the nut on the arm.


Well with a normal K04 tune, let's even say an OTS tune, the n75 is pegged at 95 until boost builds up.. When I have that on my car, it's almost as if it spikes up far too fast and immediately opens up, and oscillates back and forth like that. This repeats and that's where the surging is coming from

This is what it first looked like, on the tune my car should be on:


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## skateboy_918 (Mar 15, 2013)

3MPG said:


> Hey guys.. Hoping you can share your thoughts on this weird issue I'm having.
> 
> Just got a K04 kit installed (a la CTS Turbo) and some vag com logs revealed something odd.. With the tune, my boost would shoot up and shoot back down, causing severe power surges until the revs climbed close to redline. My wastegate duty cycle was like a massive zig zag. To combat this until I find potential hardware issues, my tuner made me a custom file limiting the n75 to 60% load.. Well now I'm spiking up to 2800mbar (*I have a Golf R MAP sensor installed*, so vag-come will show boost pressure this high), and only holding about 14 psi by the time I reach redline. Thing is, my requested vs actual is on par for the whole pull.
> 
> ...


what company's tune are you running and does it take into account the golf r MAP sensor?

also the N75 on a K04 is exactly the same as the K03


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## ROH ECHT (Dec 9, 2010)

When over-boosting, you need to loosen the nut #3 (about 1.5 to 2 full turns in your case) that is nearest the actuator rod-end and tighten nut #2 up to the w/g arm-linkage and up to the #3 nut's new position. Replace the clip #1 and heat shield.

This is my old K03, but wg actuator valves, rods, and adjusters are all quite similar. Hardware may differ slightly, but their layouts and function do not.
Image of the actuator rod going through the wastegate arm;


Hope this helps with your boost issues :thumbup:


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

ROH ECHT said:


> When over-boosting, you need to loosen the nut #3 (about 1.5 to 2 full turns in your case) that is nearest the actuator rod-end and tighten nut #2 up to the w/g arm-linkage and up to the #3 nut's new position. Replace the clip #1 and heat shield.
> 
> This is my old K03, but wg actuator valves, rods, and adjusters are all quite similar. Hardware may differ slightly, but their layouts and function do not.
> Image of the actuator rod going through the wastegate arm;
> ...


Thanks man, I'll give this a shot next time I'm under the car. I've been told by basically everyone not to touch it but, everything points to this being my problem..


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

3MPG said:


> Thanks man, I'll give this a shot next time I'm under the car. I've been told by basically everyone not to touch it but, everything points to this being my problem..


One more thing you said replace the clip.. Do you have to break it to remove it?


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## GolfRS (Feb 4, 2006)

Don't take that picture as reference.

The K04 actuator linkage is completely different then the K03 one
in the picture.

There is a clip you have to remove so you can adjust the nut on it.

You'll figure it out once you see it.


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

GolfRS said:


> Don't take that picture as reference.
> 
> The K04 actuator linkage is completely different then the K03 one
> in the picture.
> ...


How different can it really be? 


Tapatalkin


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## GolfRS (Feb 4, 2006)

3MPG said:


> How different can it really be?
> 
> 
> Tapatalkin


That different.


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## ROH ECHT (Dec 9, 2010)

3MPG said:


> One more thing you said replace the clip.. Do you have to break it to remove it?


 No, just place a flat screwdriver between the clip and the nuts/rod and twist the driver side to side...it just snaps on and off.



> This is my old K03, but wg actuator valves, rods, and adjusters are all quite similar. Hardware may differ slightly, "but their layouts and function do not".


As I said, it differs from the K03 due to a knurled nut(K03) and a hex-nut(K04..thanks RS for the pic), but the direction you adjust is the same. 

Do this when motor is cool and use your skinny forearms...not your Popeye f/a's ;p 
1st: There are two bolts to remove to get the axle heat shield out of the way.
2nd: Pop the retainer clip off of the actuator rod with the flat driver.
3rd: Loosen the #3 nut(it is hex on the K04 and nearest the end of the rod - located to the right in RS's image) 1.5 to 2 full turns using a 10mm wrench/spanner.
4th: In the same direction as the #3 nut, tighten the #2 nut(located to the left in RS's image) up to the new #3 nut position.
5th: Replace the retainer clip by hand and feel...you won't really be able to see when you do this, but you can feel your way to it quite easy enough. Replace the heat shield too.


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

ROH ECHT said:


> No, just place a flat screwdriver between the clip and the nuts/rod and twist the driver side to side...it just snaps on and off.
> 
> 
> As I said, it differs from the K03 due to a knurled nut(K03) and a hex-nut(K04..thanks RS for the pic), but the direction you adjust is the same.
> ...


I see. So basically you're moving that entire piece as a whole just 1.5-2 turns towards the right.. Gotcha

Thanks man, and thanks GolfRS! :beer: 

I'll bump this thread once I give this a shot, hopefully tonight or tomorrow.. Still if anyone else has anything to add please do


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## ROH ECHT (Dec 9, 2010)

Right...and if moved too far you would go back the other way. So, critical to pay attention to the number of turns...or as I do, the number of sides per the Hex...I count six sides per full turn of course ;p The only tough thing to do is the nut turning...I have a 10mm that is only about 80mm long. Remember, not too tight...there is a retainer clip ;p You do not want to shear the rod or strip off the threads, right?


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

There is a bracket with 2 bolts holding it on that is easy to remove and gives you more room too.

Roh helped me with mine and it was easy to adjust.


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

ROH ECHT said:


> Right...and if moved too far you would go back the other way. So, critical to pay attention to the number of turns...or as I do, the number of sides per the Hex...I count six sides per full turn of course ;p The only tough thing to do is the nut turning...I have a 10mm that is only about 80mm long. Remember, not too tight...there is a retainer clip ;p You do not want to shear the rod or strip off the threads, right?


Haha I'll probably just make mark with a sharpie on the nut. Thanks for all the tips man, I really hope this is what's causing my problems.. If you look at the ****show N75 cycle I posted, would that happen if the car was overboosting under full load/low RPM? I'm thinking that it overboosts so quickly so that the N75 cycle shoots down to protect the engine, then goes back up when the boost drops, and this pattern repeats itself all the way to nearly redline..


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

Here's a better graph that shows the direct relation between my WG duty cycle and boost spike...


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

bump.. anyone else have anything to add?


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

3MPG said:


> bump.. anyone else have anything to add?


Have you adjusted your actuator yet?


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

warranty225cpe said:


> Have you adjusted your actuator yet?


Not yet, was going to today but don't have much time. I did manage to quickly take a picture of it's current position though 










I don't know if that will help but..


Tapatalkin


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

3MPG said:


> Not yet, was going to today but don't have much time. I did manage to quickly take a picture of it's current position though
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Unfortunately seeing a picture or counting exposed threads isnt going to do anything for you.


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

warranty225cpe said:


> Unfortunately seeing a picture or counting exposed threads isnt going to do anything for you.


I didn't think so, but I figured why not. My intake (CTS Turbo) has a bung right where the bend is for the turbo inlet, for an S3/Golf R style DV relocate (website shows pics). Today I noticed that the bungs rubber cap was ripped and destroyed where the hose clamp is; it was tightened down too much. Also, my MAF housing was leaking; on that note, how much "pressure" is flowing through that intake when accelerating? Because on a 15psi boost leak test through the front of the CAI, the soapy water revealed a huge leak where the MAF housing is..


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

3MPG said:


> I didn't think so, but I figured why not. My intake (CTS Turbo) has a bung right where the bend is for the turbo inlet, for an S3/Golf R style DV relocate (website shows pics). Today I noticed that the bungs rubber cap was ripped and destroyed where the hose clamp is; it was tightened down too much. Also, my MAF housing was leaking; on that note, how much "pressure" is flowing through that intake when accelerating? Because on a 15psi boost leak test through the front of the CAI, the soapy water revealed a huge leak where the MAF housing is..


Your TIP/intake is never under pressure. Since its pulling air in, its under vacuum. A vac leak would cause problems too. Those rubber caps suck ass. Use a piece of silicone or rubber hose and plug one end with a bolt or something. Did you fix the leak?


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Wait a second, I just looked at your pic again.. If you look at the photo, you can see a shiny part of the bushing thats coming out of the hot side of the turbo.. If thats what I think it is, thats not good. This is usually an indication that the bushing that holds the WG flap/door, has failed (allowing it to move around. further causing the flap/door to move around and not get a good seal). To verify this, you need to disconnect the linkage and see if the bushing has play in and out of the hot side housing. I know this situation well, because my first F23 did the same thing. Your first order of business should be getting into that WG issue. Take off the hardware on that rod and see if the arm/door moves freely. If it doesnt, that means that turbo is no bueno.


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

warranty225cpe said:


> Wait a second, I just looked at your pic again.. If you look at the photo, you can see a shiny part of the bushing thats coming out of the hot side of the turbo.. If thats what I think it is, thats not good. This is usually an indication that the bushing that holds the WG flap/door, has failed (allowing it to move around. further causing the flap/door to move around and not get a good seal). To verify this, you need to disconnect the linkage and see if the bushing has play in and out of the hot side housing. I know this situation well, because my first F23 did the same thing. Your first order of business should be getting into that WG issue. Take off the hardware on that rod and see if the arm/door moves freely. If it doesnt, that means that turbo is no bueno.


Hmm.. Interesting.. Well I just tightened up everything around the turbo inlet and the good news is I'm not spiking past 20psi anymore. Also, my boost is building up a lot slower. I think that the crack in the plug on the CAI DV relocate bung caused too much air to be sucked in after the MAF and was over spooling the turbo. Plausible?


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

3MPG said:


> Hmm.. Interesting.. Well I just tightened up everything around the turbo inlet and the good news is I'm not spiking past 20psi anymore. Also, my boost is building up a lot slower. I think that the crack in the plug on the CAI DV relocate bung caused too much air to be sucked in after the MAF and was over spooling the turbo. Plausible?


Yeah, that makes sense. You have to remember, your only going to get the best performance out of a closed/sealed system. ANY leak, vac/boost will cause issues. Theres nothing like a leak free system.


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

warranty225cpe said:


> Yeah, that makes sense. You have to remember, your only going to get the best performance out of a closed/sealed system. ANY leak, vac/boost will cause issues. Theres nothing like a leak free system.


Right now I'm running a STOCK ED30/Golf R file.. and the boost slooowwly builds in 3rd gear 2-2.5k RPM. If I punch it in 2nd, the boost doesn't even touch 20psi. Before it would hit like 25+ and come back down


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

So are you all set now? It does look like the part behind the bushing has been pushed out to expose that shiny metal.


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

Tutti57 said:


> So are you all set now? It does look like the part behind the bushing has been pushed out to expose that shiny metal.


I haven't looked into this yet.. I will on Monday. I just put the k04 tune on and it's doing the same thing as the crazy n75 graph I posted.

Thing is, high rpm in 4th, if I really ease into the throttle it feels pretty good.. 


Tapatalkin


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

3MPG said:


> I haven't looked into this yet.. I will on Monday. I just put the k04 tune on and it's doing the same thing as the crazy n75 graph I posted.
> 
> Thing is, high rpm in 4th, if I really ease into the throttle it feels pretty good..
> 
> ...


The WG flap/door has to stay in a certain spot to cover the hole. If the shiny spot on that bushing IS in fact from a failure, it would keep the port from being closed all the way when it should ( and possibly causing the lack of power). What kind of turbo is this? Is it a Chinese made hybrid?


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

warranty225cpe said:


> The WG flap/door has to stay in a certain spot to cover the hole. If the shiny spot on that bushing IS in fact from a failure, it would keep the port from being closed all the way when it should ( and possibly causing the lack of power). What kind of turbo is this? Is it a Chinese made hybrid?


It's an OEM K04 from BW. Bought it brand spankin new from CTS Turbo... I showed the picture to a few people that have experience with installing these K04s, and they say it looks normal.

Would you be able to elaborate a little on how to check if it is in fact broken? I'm starting to think a simple wastegate adjustment will fix my issue... The graph with the huge spike is a simple OEM Golf R/ED30 tune *with added boost request*. The graph with the wavy N75 request is my tuners actual K04 tune. The fact that my car doesn't fluctuate like that when I'm on the "modified" Ed30 tune makes me thing that the tunes different boost control is giving my N75 a hard time.

This K04 I have was never touched when it left the factory, which might explain why on a 100% totally stock ED30 file with no alterations, it drives perfectly fine. There's a bit of a spike still, however. But boost holds at 15psi to redline and does not budge whatsoever.


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

Also, that shiny spot on the bushing, kinda looks similar to the shiny spot on the wg nut.. I think it's the camera flash.. Haha


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## ROH ECHT (Dec 9, 2010)

It is normal...if you zoom in on the RS photo I also used...you can see that shiney bit exposed there as well ;p


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

ROH ECHT said:


> It is normal...if you zoom in on the RS photo I also used...you can see that shiney bit exposed there as well ;p


I think he was talking about the tiny white blotch on the shiny bit itself lol. I had a video recording with the flash on and it reflected I guess.

Anyways, in your opinion guys, this is simply an overboost issue..? Boost spiking too hard and N75 physically can't control the high boost request?

In the event that I adjust the WG lets say 1.5 turns and it solves my problem, would you recommend any loctite or something similar to keep it in place?


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

Well I have good and bad news.. Good news, the tune was tweaked a little and those crazy boost fluctuations are gone. Bad news, a 4th gear, 3000RPM pull causes a hard spike up to about 26-28psi still, and tapers down to only 15 tops once at redline.. 

:banghead:


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

Ok one more thing that I probably should have mentioned.. When torquing down the 4 bolts that attach the exhaust mani to the head, we did it the correct way. Torqued each bolt down a little bit at a time, going back and forth in the order of 1, 4, 3, then 2. The only thing is, we forgot to put the downpipe studs in the holes on the turbo. After torquing down the mani to spec, we noticed that the turbo was actually lifting up on the studs and it actually became SO stuck, that we needed to physically pry the downpipe off the turbo. I can't really explain it better than that, but to be short, what we saw on the torque wrench was not what was being applied directly to those 4 bolts; the fact that some force was being applied to those studs, means my exhaust manifold isn't fully torqued down to spec.

My question is, in the event that exhaust is leaking out of where the mani bolts to the head, is that going to cause such a severe drop in boost?


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

3MPG said:


> Ok one more thing that I probably should have mentioned.. When torquing down the 4 bolts that attach the exhaust mani to the head, we did it the correct way. Torqued each bolt down a little bit at a time, going back and forth in the order of 1, 4, 3, then 2. The only thing is, we forgot to put the downpipe studs in the holes on the turbo. After torquing down the mani to spec, we noticed that the turbo was actually lifting up on the studs and it actually became SO stuck, that we needed to physically pry the downpipe off the turbo. I can't really explain it better than that, but to be short, what we saw on the torque wrench was not what was being applied directly to those 4 bolts; the fact that some force was being applied to those studs, means my exhaust manifold isn't fully torqued down to spec.
> 
> My question is, in the event that exhaust is leaking out of where the mani bolts to the head, is that going to cause such a severe drop in boost?


An exhaust leak pre turbo WILL cause problems. Basically you will have too much unmetered air hitting your 1st 02 sensor. Since your exhaust gasses will be blowing out of that exhaust leak, your o2 sensor will be getting inaccurate readings. Your ECU will more than likely try to compensate by making you run rich.


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

warranty225cpe said:


> An exhaust leak pre turbo WILL cause problems. Basically you will have too much unmetered air hitting your 1st 02 sensor. Since your exhaust gasses will be blowing out of that exhaust leak, your o2 sensor will be getting inaccurate readings. Your ECU will more than likely try to compensate by making you run rich.


I suspect the car would be significantly louder if there was a leak large enough to cause an 8psi drop in boost.. I didn't really notice any change in loudness from when I was stage 2


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

Also it's not like it's loose.. We yanked on it pretty damn hard and there was absolutely no play at all, at least none that we could feel. We had already put the PITA heat shield on so, tightening the bolts would have meant doing that all over again lol.. It was getting reeally late...


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## Pure.Dope (Mar 26, 2009)

The turbo mani nuts should be tightened 1-3-5-4-2. Did you guys mess with the actual turbo mounting bracket? If so you did it wrong. Also there should be nothing weird about the downpipe/studs. Sounds like you need to get back in there and double check.


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

Pure.Dope said:


> The turbo mani nuts should be tightened 1-3-5-4-2. Did you guys mess with the actual turbo mounting bracket? If so you did it wrong. Also there should be nothing weird about the downpipe/studs. Sounds like you need to get back in there and double check.


Hm.. that sounds about right, sorry forgot there was 5. I didn't tighten them down myself. We did not mess with the bracket at all. I'll try and get in there and tighten it as much as I can


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

Can you post a new log?


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

Tutti57 said:


> Can you post a new log?


Just bought a rosstech cable but it was raining so I couldn't do much tonight. Will try tomorrow


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

So I thought I'd give the car some time to adapt to the new tune, and nothing really came out of it. I turned the WG about 1.5-2 turns for lower boost, and it seems to have helped but only slightly. Not near 28PSI anymore which is good. However, the car holds boost really really well up until 5000RPM, at which point it literally just shoots down to around 10-12, and when I shift it starts to pop back up near 20 again but not for long. On the note of DSG, it also shifts reallllyy slowly and sloppily.


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

Bump.. Here's what boost is doing now. It's basically perfect up until whatever the **** is happening at 4800RPM. The request just drops for whatever reason. Is that the N75 trying to regulate a slight over boost or something??


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

Looks like it still might be too tight. 

After you loosen it, reset your fuel trims by clearing the engine codes (even if there aren't any). 

When you get on the gas again watch your boost gauge and see where it spikes before it re-adapts. Just don't let it go too high. Where it spikes should be very close to requested values.


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## 3MPG (Feb 7, 2013)

Tutti57 said:


> Looks like it still might be too tight.
> 
> After you loosen it, reset your fuel trims by clearing the engine codes (even if there aren't any).
> 
> When you get on the gas again watch your boost gauge and see where it spikes before it re-adapts. Just don't let it go too high. Where it spikes should be very close to requested values.


The initial spike is within 1-2psi of requested boost so I think I'm happy with where my actuator is now. My problem is the fact that for some reason the ECU is requesting that boost drop off when it shouldn't. Here's a picture of the request as it should be on a different members car with the *identical* tune:










As you can see they are fairly similar with the exception of the end...


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