# DIY: Wind Deflector Belt Replacement



## G3RG4TR0N1C (Aug 24, 2014)

There is limited information to be found concerning replacing the drive belt for the Roadster's rear wind deflector, or wind stop. I've put together a DIY on the procedure as a service to this community. The process is really quite simple, using basic tools and armed with this DIY, you should have it done in 20 to 30 minutes. I'd put this right up there with changing your oil, as far as difficulty goes.

First of all, it is important to note that the belt is part# 8N7-862-997. However, unless you **** money, I suggest you get the belt from www.polybelt.com. Their part number for it is B8N7862997

1. First thing you'll need to remove is the plastic cover that protects the soft top from the mechanism. With the top up, it can be found up against the back seats, in the top stowage area. It has 3 plastic ribs in the middle of that are just sort of showy, but be careful of them, as they are likely brittle (mine broke.) 










This piece can be removed by applying pressure down towards the floor and in towards the center of the car at each corner. 










To get that out of the rear stowage area you'll have to play a fun game of up and down with the soft top. 










Then, set it aside, we're done with it.










2. The rest of this process should be done with the soft top down. You may want to put some sort of drop cloth over the whole thing, I just used a rag. But the point is we're about to make a mess with metal shavings. The belt hides directly under this metal piece that is pop-riveted in place, so we'll have to drill out those pop-rivets. An 11/32 drill bit seemed to be a perfect fit. There are two on each side, one that faces in toward center one that faces toward front.










3. Once we've got those nasty pop-rivets out, we're good to go, right? No? Oh, ****, what else is holding this thing on? Well, there's these two little brackets, that it looks like we could easily get a flat head screwdriver under, let's see if they pop off without breaking anything.


















Great, those came off and I only had to bust out the magnetic grabber tool for one of 'em. So now, this thing should lift right off right? No? What the ****?

4. This little thing slides in towards the center of the car on each side. I used a phillips head screwdriver in the hole to move it. Then, boom! That piece comes off like it was never pop-riveted, bracketed and snapped in to place to begin with!


















And there's what's left of your belt (if anything).










5. This threaded mechanism pulls forward out of its bracket with little effort (I grabbed it with a rag in my hand and pulled). That releases tension on the belt, so you can snag it out of there.










Look at that piece of ****.










6. Put your shiny new belt on and pop that piece back into place (it's a little tricky). I had to lift up on the bracket to get it to go back into position then tap it lightly with a hammer until it was all the way back in it's rightful place. 


















7. Make sure to clean up the mess left by your old belt, and/or any remaining metal shavings from drilling out the rivets.

8. At this point you can check for proper operation, but be careful of the soft top, as that plastic piece we removed in step one, would normally be shielding the soft top from this contraption. 


9. It wouldn't hurt to lube up those threaded bolts that do most of the work. I used this Shin Etsu Grease. It's actually a Honda product used to lubricate the tracks of power windows and sunroofs. Works well on power antennas too, so I felt it would be right at home lubing up these things.









Really slather it on there.









10. Then just throw that previously-riveted piece back on. Oh wait, it has a bunch of channel guides you have to make sure the belt sits on the proper side of. Mother-fu- Just use your fingers to find them, the flat side of the belt should always be against the felted side of the guides. There is one on either side, near the threaded bolts, that the belt just passes on one side of, then the one pictured is in the center, the belt goes through it on both sides.










Okay, now we just slide them things back over, put our little brackets back into place and .... well, I didn't bother pop-riveting or putting anything else back in those holes. **** it, where is this thing going anyway?

11. Another game of up and down with the soft top will let you wiggle that plastic trim piece back in there, and snap it back into place. 

Your done! Now you can go back to forgetting that wind deflector is even there until your fussy female passenger complains about it being too windy with the top down (imagine that!).


----------



## MCPaudiTT (Nov 26, 2006)

Nice job, thanks for posting.


----------



## erabbit777 (Jan 11, 2009)

Subscribed!


----------



## Hawseman (Jul 7, 2014)

Thanks - great write up. Allow me to add my 2 cents of limited experience.

Be sure to test the screw drives by hand prior to installing new belt. I found a bad screw thread that would have torn up my new belt as well. Replacing screw drive is a bee-itch. When moving screen by hand, you'll feel some tension, and need to alternate sides, but it should move to top with no stoppage.

Good, reasonably priced, replacement belt here:

http://shop.polybelt.com/High-Power-Toothed-BELT-for-Audi-TT-wind-deflector-8N7862997-B8N7862997.htm

Sadly, the cheapo-plastic, screw drives are OEM only and carry the price tag to prove it.

If you decide to rivet the metal piece back in, you'll need 3/16" x 1/4".

Hope this helps too....


----------



## maserator (Jul 3, 2015)

Hawseman said:


> Thanks - great write up. Allow me to add my 2 cents of limited experience.
> 
> Be sure to test the screw drives by hand prior to installing new belt. I found a bad screw thread that would have torn up my new belt as well. Replacing screw drive is a bee-itch. When moving screen by hand, you'll feel some tension, and need to alternate sides, but it should move to top with no stoppage.
> 
> ...



Thanks for mentioning the rivet size... I was curious about that!


----------



## rodhot (Jan 4, 2012)

*Excellent*

thats with a capital E!!! been wanting to go the belt since i got my 2001 TT 225Q about 3 years ago, my girlfriend wines!!! its too cold, meanwhile i don't even have a jacket on as she does. it my first convertible + i love it!! i would suspect all MK I TT roadsters use the same belt. thanks again as pictures are surely worth a thousand words!!


----------



## Sportycar (Oct 19, 2015)

*Job done*

Thanks for the great write up with pics. Great help. The rivets slowed me down, perhaps because of a poor drill bit or weak cordless. I found that a wood shaver with a hammer worked great to get those rivets out quickly.

The other tough part was getting the belt sprockets back into place, but nothing a rubber hammer couldn't fix.

Polybelt was $40 including shipping. Bought a rivet gun at Harbor tools for $5.


----------



## ne2i (Jan 4, 2004)

Did mine and the large plastic cover keeps popping off. Any ideas?


----------



## wolfsburgy2 (Apr 29, 2004)

*Still great instructions!*

My wind deflector was jamming and making noises. I found your nicely detailed and illustrated instructions and they worked to a T....T! Although I am sure I was nowhere near your half hour estimate
Thanks a bunch!


----------



## SCTazmon (Sep 16, 2020)

*Windscreen Driveshaft - Threaded Corkscrew Replacement*

I'm new to the forum. I've already found it invaluable. Thank you!

I have a damaged windscreen threaded driveshaft - driver's side. I read that it simply pulls out, and I've also read that I must remove the entire windscreen to remove the threaded driveshaft from the motor.

Surprisingly, my drive belt is in serviceable condition.

Update after removing the entire assembly from the car I discovered:

Driver's side driveshaft removal requires entire windscreen to be removed because the bottom of the shaft slides out toward the rear of the car (like the top of the shaft).

Passenger side driveshaft can be removed with the unit in place - both the top and bottom of the shaft slide out toward the rear of the car.

I purchased a new shaft for the driver's side. The same part can be used on either side. If you use it for the passenger side, remove the bottom pin and rubber covering.


----------



## leakypuppy (Oct 18, 2020)

*Question before starting...*

My wind deflector stopped operating a few weeks ago but makes no noise when the switch is activated. This makes me suspect that either the switch or the motor has failed. Has anyone had a similar experience? I'm assuming I should hear the motor operating if the belt is shredded?


----------



## E v i l (Feb 26, 2005)

Thanks for this.


----------



## GTIZRX (Nov 21, 2001)

E v i l said:


> Thanks for this.





SCTazmon said:


> *Windscreen Driveshaft - Threaded Corkscrew Replacement*
> 
> I'm new to the forum. I've already found it invaluable. Thank you!
> 
> ...


I just bought a 2001 TT Roadster for my wife and the wind deflector was not working. I found that both the left and right jack screws are cracked and broken. Motor is fine as well as the belt. This thread helped out so much thanks for all who have posted and the pics are fantastic!!


----------



## quattrosNrabbits (Jun 23, 2007)

SCTazmon said:


> *Windscreen Driveshaft - Threaded Corkscrew Replacement*
> I purchased a new shaft for the driver's side. The same part can be used on either side. If you use it for the passenger side, remove the bottom pin and rubber covering.


Mind sharing where you sourced you replacement shaft? Dealer or internet? Part number? Price?
Thanks!
-Stott


----------



## GTIZRX (Nov 21, 2001)

quattrosNrabbits said:


> Mind sharing where you sourced you replacement shaft? Dealer or internet? Part number? Price?
> Thanks!
> -Stott


I had to replace both shafts, I ordered them off the internet. P/N: 8N7-862-991. I got mine from AudiUSAParts.com there are some listed as cheaper but come from overseas and the wait time was 6 or 8 weeks. Another place was cheaper here in the states but wanted $80 shipping. This seems to be an Audi only part so you should be able to get them from you local Audi dealer. I don't have a Audi dealer locally so I went the internet route.


----------



## NLSOER (Apr 2, 2021)

SCTazmon said:


> *Windscreen Driveshaft - Threaded Corkscrew Replacement*
> 
> I'm new to the forum. I've already found it invaluable. Thank you!
> 
> ...


Hi, thanks for your additions. 
I noticed my driveshaft is half-worn as well. Where could I buy the replacement you mentioned?
Thx, 
Rob


----------



## ejaffe (Jun 25, 2021)

Nice job with the instructions. 7 years after you posted they are still being used. This was an easy fix. I reinstalled new pop rivets because I had them and it was easy. I did not reinstall the small little brackets because they keep falling out and it seemed to me they just hold the sliding clips in the closed position but with the rivets in, I think this is a little good old fashion German over engineering.


----------

