# 07 Rabbit rear brake question



## egotec22 (Aug 30, 2008)

why do my back wheels get dirty faster than my front?? any one else have this problem>>>>


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## Audi4u (Jun 29, 2002)

*Re: 07 Rabbit rear brake question (egotec22)*

yes. People think its designed to be that way I think its a bad caliper/rotor combo. The GTI don't have this issue.


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## charlie.macpherson (Jun 15, 2008)

yea me too i heard somehwere its designed that the rear brakes use more braking force or something thats why tehres more dust and you go through the rears quicker


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## dsleggett (Feb 5, 2006)

*Re: (illblood)*

It might have something to do with the ESP applying braking at various times when cornering etc to keep the attitude correct. Whatever it is it really goes through rear pads in a hurry. My son's 2007 rabbit went through rear pads in 16,xxx miles. Crazy.


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## 2ohgti (Nov 8, 2004)

*Re: 07 Rabbit rear brake question (egotec22)*

It seem more breaking occurs in the rear. Lately I've been hearing a loud grinding sound when I come to a slow stop. What is that?


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## dumbassmozart (Apr 19, 2007)

*Re: 07 Rabbit rear brake question (2ohgti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2ohgti* »_It seem more breaking occurs in the rear. Lately I've been hearing a loud grinding sound when I come to a slow stop. What is that? 

Sound like your rear pads are done. I heard that on mine and they were worn all the way down, even though the fronts were still more than 50%


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## 2ohgti (Nov 8, 2004)

*Re: 07 Rabbit rear brake question (dumbassmozart)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dumbassmozart* »_
Sound like your rear pads are done. I heard that on mine and they were worn all the way down, even though the fronts were still more than 50%

Damn, I have only 11k on the car







My brake pad light hasn't come on yet though.


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## dumbassmozart (Apr 19, 2007)

*Re: 07 Rabbit rear brake question (2ohgti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2ohgti* »_
Damn, I have only 11k on the car







My brake pad light hasn't come on yet though. 

The brake pad sensor is only on the front left wheel. There are no sensors on the rears. Check them pronto http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Lt. Crash (Aug 27, 2007)

*Re: 07 Rabbit rear brake question (egotec22)*

Dave, 
My rear brakes have had excessive dust on them from day one. At my 15,000 mile service the pads were shot. I paid to replace them, but after writing VWOA they credited me for the install and parts having the AVIS tech's state that the original batch of pads on the 07's were defective. Since replacing them at 15,000 miles and now at 30,000 miles, pads still have plenty of meat on them and dust is cut down but still more present than the fronts... I've been told it is the pads, I've been told its the proportioning valve (less nose dive), my MKIV Jetta VR did the same damn thing too, but in the end its a VW... 
PS. Missed U at H2Oi man, got pulled over for some bull ish- good times!


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## daemontrym (Feb 13, 2008)

*Re: 07 Rabbit rear brake question (Lt. Crash)*

On my 08 I rotated the tires at 10K to check the brakes because of posts like this. Mine have a bit of meat left on them..
A question I do have though is about the posts about installing tha pads on the rabbit. I have a piston compressor that I bought from autozone a few cars back that I use. Would this work on the pistons for the VW? Because, I have heard that you have to twist the piston as your pushing it down. 
This is the tool here..
http://www.redboxtools.com/product_images/1537.jpg


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## 2ohgti (Nov 8, 2004)

*Re: 07 Rabbit rear brake question (dumbassmozart)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dumbassmozart* »_
The brake pad sensor is only on the front left wheel. There are no sensors on the rears. Check them pronto http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Thanks!!


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## BuddyWh (Nov 11, 2006)

*Re: 07 Rabbit rear brake question (egotec22)*

I got 20k on my OE brakes now, and I imagine I'll be needing replacement fairly soon, within 10 or so. Anyone have recommendations on good aftermarket pads for the Rabbit?
I've heard that Axxis Metal Master's are a good mid-range pads but they dust much worse than OE. The OP's experience makes me wonder if his rear brakes were changed to something like them since he's getting lots worse dust there. Just a guess...but it led me to ask this question too.


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## dsleggett (Feb 5, 2006)

*Re: 07 Rabbit rear brake question (daemontrym)*

Don't use that tool. There are a couple of ways to do it but the easiest is a specific tool that turns the piston while compressing it. This is a good one: http://www.ecstuning.com/stage....html


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## vwgman86 (Jun 11, 2008)

*Re: 07 Rabbit rear brake question (egotec22)*

Just a heads up I have 50,000 miles on my rabbit and the rear pads still have about 60% pad left. A couple of days ago for the first time I had to slam the brakes on my rabbit and I could hear the rear wheels skid and saw a little smoke from it as well. With that it made me think that the rear did most of the braking, but that's just me.


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## BuddyWh (Nov 11, 2006)

*Re: 07 Rabbit rear brake question (vwgman86)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwgman86* »_Just a heads up I have 50,000 miles on my rabbit and the rear pads still have about 60% pad left. A couple of days ago for the first time I had to slam the brakes on my rabbit and I could hear the rear wheels skid and saw a little smoke from it as well. With that it made me think that the rear did most of the braking, but that's just me. 

Rear's don't do most of the braking...the fronts do by far. Don't be fooled by the tire smoking when the brakes lock up a rear tire...in hard breaking the weight of the car shifts way forward leaving very little weight in the rear tires so they're easily locked up while bleeding off very little momentum. 
Look at the brakes of your car, if you ever have a chance while it's on a rack and tires are off. The rear disk diameter is a lot less than the front, the pad area is a lot less and the front caliper is beefier. You can see it's front is made to to a LOT more work than the rear.


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## vwgman86 (Jun 11, 2008)

*Re: 07 Rabbit rear brake question (BuddyWh)*

I understand the physics of braking. If the front does all the braking then explain why the rear brakes wear faster than the front. I'm not gonna buy the story of bad brake pads cuz i have tons of miles on mine and I haven't done anything to the brakes. There's no TSBs on that issue so it must be driver error.


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## Outie5000 (Aug 8, 2007)

It happens when germans overengineer a car.


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## vwgman86 (Jun 11, 2008)

*Re: (Outie5000)*

Now explain over engineering in conjunction with the brakes. I'm curious.


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## BuddyWh (Nov 11, 2006)

*Re: 07 Rabbit rear brake question (vwgman86)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwgman86* »_I understand the physics of braking. If the front does all the braking then explain why the rear brakes wear faster than the front. I'm not gonna buy the story of bad brake pads cuz i have tons of miles on mine and I haven't done anything to the brakes. There's no TSBs on that issue so it must be driver error. 

Hmm...having trouble understanding your problem. With 50K miles on your car and 60% of the rear pad left you seem to be doing pretty well.
How can driver _error_ be the issue...maybe driving around with parking brake partially engaged? Maybe driving style and use pattern?


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## BuddyWh (Nov 11, 2006)

*Re: (vwgman86)*

I'd be interested in what he thinks 'over-engineering' in general means...


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## 07bunny (Nov 21, 2007)

*Re: (BuddyWh)*

vwgman quick ? do you do a lot of highway driving? and what is your percentage of highway driving over city driving? just curious!


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

*Re: 07 Rabbit rear brake question (daemontrym)*


_Quote, originally posted by *daemontrym* »_
A question I do have though is about the posts about installing tha pads on the rabbit. I have a piston compressor that I bought from autozone a few cars back that I use. Would this work on the pistons for the VW? Because, I have heard that you have to twist the piston as your pushing it down. 
This is the tool here..
http://www.redboxtools.com/product_images/1537.jpg

The tool pictured is a compression only caliper tool..will work on front calipers, but NOT rears. Go to autozone and "rent" one....they have free loaner program around here for the proper "twist and squeeze" rear caliper tool (has adapters to fit the notches in VW pistons to turn 'em while compressing). http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

*Re: (vwgman86)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwgman86* »_Now explain over engineering in conjunction with the brakes. I'm curious. 

I think what he was referring to is the fact that VW in recent models has "messed around' (engineering) with front/rear brake bias to the point where rear brakes on later models seem to wear out much faster than the fronts. I think this is a response to all cars havin ABS now..B4 you had to be super carefull not to give too much braking power to rear wheels, since lockin rear wheels B4 the fronts lock is a big stability problem...Now with ABS you can apply more power to rears w/o worry since ABS prevents 'em from lockin up. Doin more of breakin effort with the rears removes some of the "dive" during hard braking which improves handliinng since chassis loads are more constant on each wheel...I'm guessing that's what lead VW engineers to increase rear brake power and as a consequence..pad wear.


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## daemontrym (Feb 13, 2008)

*Re: (spitpilot)*

You can eliminate brake dust by using ceramic pads plus they last a bit longer as well. I know this because my father worked for Universal Brake Parts before they went out of business. He used to test products for the company and we had ceramic pads for his mercury cougar at the time to try out. THey lasted a bit longer then your normal pads and there wasn't any brake dust on the rims. 
I have used these on the fiero before too which has all solid rotors. They work great and bite great without the cost of faster wear. I used to get them at cost for manufacturing them. (10 dollars for fronts and 15 for the rears)


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## RoundTuit (Aug 6, 2005)

I just hit 27000 miles and I need new rear pads. Im going ahead and replacing the rotors too because thats the kind of nut I am. Fronts still have plenty left.


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## david8814 (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: (spitpilot)*

The favoured rear brake bias is a safety issue: firstly, it reduces nose dive which is safer for pedestrian impacts; second, rear brake bias is better for driving on surfaces with less traction such as rain, snow and gravel as the lower traction limits the amount of weight the car can shift forward under braking. This second point will make a lot more sense to those of you who also ride bikes (of all sorts).
While I don't necessarily agree with VWs decision to put such a heavy bias on the rears, you can see what motivated them. Frankly, I'd prefer the front brake bias, but VW designed our cars with safety in mind.


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## daemontrym (Feb 13, 2008)

*Re: (david8814)*

I am still new to VWs but on other cars I have built on they had adjustable proportioning valves that can be installed into the brake booster. I have seen them for other cars but not for vws..


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: (daemontrym)*

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3306404 
Read this fully....it has info on brake bias, and several other things that can help you. Parking brake adjustment, Caliper issues...etc...
I still believe the 1K0-698-451-F pads are the problem...
The 1K0-698-451-D pads are lasting much better.
I also believe that the rust that builds up quickly on the rotors when the car sits for a few days is not helping. It acts like sandpaper to decrees the life of the pads.


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

*Re: (david8814)*


_Quote, originally posted by *david8814* »_The favoured rear brake bias is a safety issue: firstly, it reduces nose dive which is safer for pedestrian impacts; second, rear brake bias is better for driving on surfaces with less traction such as rain, snow and gravel as the lower traction limits the amount of weight the car can shift forward under braking. This second point will make a lot more sense to those of you who also ride bikes (of all sorts).
While I don't necessarily agree with VWs decision to put such a heavy bias on the rears, you can see what motivated them. Frankly, I'd prefer the front brake bias, but VW designed our cars with safety in mind.

Exactly...brake bias always was hi on the front so that front wheels always locked up first to help prevent spin outs in heavy braking situations..now that ABS prevents lock up...VW has obviously decided to go with heavier rear bias..I first noticed this with my 2000 Passat...all my previous VW's were nonABS...so I was suprised that the Passat rear wheels were dusty after just a few days..the exact opposite of what I was accustomed to...and the rear pads wear faster than fronts...always B4 I would count on replacing front pads 2X as often as rears...now its the other way round...positive spin on this..rear pads and rotors are cheaper than the fronts!


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## 1_BADHARE (Mar 8, 2008)

*Re: 07 Rabbit rear brake question (egotec22)*

48K and I'm about to buy my 4th set of rear pads


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## crxtrixxx (May 4, 2007)

*Re: 07 Rabbit rear brake question (1_BADHARE)*

vw is POS


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## vw93to85 (May 10, 2007)

*Re: 07 Rabbit rear brake question (crxtrixxx)*

I was going through rear pads every 20k. I switched to drilled and slotted rotors and half about 30k on them now with a little less than half the pad life left. It could be a problem with the pads getting too hot. Some people say the parking brake is set too tight from the factory. Some say it's the caliper design. Others say it's the EBCM telling the rears to work harder. This is what works for me. It may work for you, it may not.


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## Tvp125 (Mar 4, 2008)

I have the same problem. On my 4th set of breaks in the rear and the car only has 17K on it. the front is still from the factory and have plenty of life left in them. The dealer has adjusted the parking break cable and replaced the calipers still no help.


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## vwmuscle (Apr 10, 2007)

I had to replace my rear's after 18000 miles. They were metal on metal with cracked rotors. The dealer wouldnt warranty this!!! 18000 miles!!! They wanted almost 500 bucks to fix it. I told them to suck you know what, got in touch with ECS Tuning and got some mintex pads and slotted rotors for 230 shipped overnight! No problems at all for 30000 miles now. Lesson learned, Factory rear brakes are poorly made!


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## AfterAfx (Jul 18, 2008)

I have an 08 rabbit and suddenly my brakes in the passenger rear side were grinding. So, I check them out only to see that the inner pad had damaged my back rotor. You couldn't tell because the front of the rotors where fine.
But the strange thing is, my front pads where more then 75% honestly. I went out and bought new pads only to see that it was pointless. Plus the back pads are terrible, I recommend changing them.


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

*Re: (AfterAfx)*

I'm sure gonna keep an eye on my rear pad lining thickness..don't wanna have to replace rotors prematurely 'cause pads wore down to metal backing!







Changin rear rotors on these cars is a betch, you have to pull the caliper carriers off, the rear rotors don't just slip out like they do on MIV's and B5 Passats...and...not only are the 4 carrier bolts stretch torqued and super tight, but the rear suspension components get in the way of a good straight shot at the bolt heads (14mm triple square) which you need if you want to avoid strippin out the bolt heads..which you do! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif ...you need a super short triple square bit...I found one at "Metalnerd" webiste..only $20 delivered...1/2 price of SnapOn one I bought to do my suspension mod....that was too long to get at the carrier bolts in back!


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## DubRadio (Oct 15, 2003)

Factory rear pads used on the 2007 rabbit were junk, mine went out after 16k, replaced with some generic pads from salvo. I now am getting to 50k with still 50% pad left... excact same driving habits from day one when i bought the car with 0 modifications to my car.


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## vwmuscle (Apr 10, 2007)

*Re: (spitpilot)*

I had the same problem with my 14mm triple square tool. It was too long. Luckily my buddy owns a dub shop here and he punched the triple square out of the socket, put it on a lathe, and cut it down to where it would fit our need for the brakes and took care of the problem for free FTW!!
Lathe: 1
VW design: 0


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

*Re: (vwmuscle)*

I took a dremel to the Snapon Bit I bought to do the front suspension clamp bolts...shortened it as much as possilbe..still too long to get straight shot at top caliper carrier bolts...found shortie bit on Metalnerd website for 1/2 what I paid for Snap On tool...and it worked like a champ! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## vw93to85 (May 10, 2007)

*Re: (spitpilot)*

Yeah I just bought the short set from the getgo.


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