# DIY: Stud Conversion



## Aonarch (Dec 4, 2006)

First purchase some studs and lug nuts from Bildon Motorsports, Bildon. You want the M14x1.5 racing studs and the M14x1.5 spherical seat lug nuts. Also purchase some Loctite red thread sealant, or the Permatex red sealant. 

First start by jacking up the vehicle on the pinch weld indicated by the arrow on the rocker panel. 

Jack up the vehicle enough to take pressure off the wheel, but keeping a small patch of tread left on the ground. 

With a breaker bar, or ratchet, with a 17mm deep socket loosen the lugs 1/4 of a turn. Note, everytime you loosen or tighten a lug, do so in the star pattern. Also never tighten just one at a time, hand tight and then start cranking down on them in the star pattern. 

Remove the wheel and clean the bolt holes with brake cleaner:










Next take out your studs and apply the Loctite to the smaller section of threads (I used a little more then the picture shows):










Now insert the stud and tighten with a 7/32 allen to 15 lbs.










One hub done:










Might as well remove the top fender screw as well (A culprit of bent front fenders and rubbing):










Put the wheel back on the hub and hand tighten in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle so that enough tread is on the ground, and tighten to 88 lbs with a torque wrench. Note that the new lug nuts require a 19mm deep socket.










The fronts with a 7mm spacer and a 50mm stud:










In hind-sight I should have gone with 65mm studs.

Enjoy!

I am not responsible for any of your **** ups (damages) derived from this write-up.

Check the stud tightness every 500 miles or so.


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## zcar4me (May 16, 2011)

Very interesting. The CC makes the first car I've owned to not have studs. This seems like a worthwhile mod. Thanks for posting.
Never realized how little thread is used on the hub side though.


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## Aonarch (Dec 4, 2006)

zcar4me said:


> Very interesting. The CC makes the first car I've owned to not have studs. This seems like a worthwhile mod. Thanks for posting.
> Never realized how little thread is used on the hub side though.


It isn't much the stock bolts are 34mm long.


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## B6 Panzer (Jun 10, 2008)

Nice write up btw. All of the German and European cars that I've owned in the past did not have studs. It's not that bad once you get used to it. You simply have to get the wheel on the hub and place one bolt on.


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## Aonarch (Dec 4, 2006)

B6 Panzer said:


> Nice write up btw. All of the German and European cars that I've owned in the past did not have studs. It's not that bad once you get used to it. You simply have to get the wheel on the hub and place one bolt on.


That isn't my issue. Its the increased wear and tear on the hubs from the lugs. 

My GTI had two stripped out lug holes (Dealer, not me!) and I got sick of it. 

I swap out wheels a lot so having studs is a faster and less wear/ tear way of doing business.


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## ajz9415 (Feb 7, 2005)

Not a bad Idea :thumbup: Same set for the MKVI GTI and jetta correct


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## Aonarch (Dec 4, 2006)

ajz9415 said:


> Not a bad Idea :thumbup:


:thumbup: Yes same for MKV's and MKVI's.


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## ajz9415 (Feb 7, 2005)

I am running hartman 305's 19x8.5 with no spacers should I go 50 or 65mm as I do not se a 60mm


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## Aonarch (Dec 4, 2006)

ajz9415 said:


> I am running hartman 305's 19x8.5 with no spacers should I go 50 or 65mm as I do not se a 60mm


65 for safety. You fine with them poking out?


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## Eff Bags (Nov 8, 2006)

How long did it take Bildon to ship your stud conversion? I ordered over three weeks ago and haven't seen anything or gotten a response to my email (and apparently they don't do phone calls according to their site)...


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## Aonarch (Dec 4, 2006)

Eff Bags said:


> How long did it take Bildon to ship your stud conversion? I ordered over three weeks ago and haven't seen anything or gotten a response to my email (and apparently they don't do phone calls according to their site)...


That isn't good. Not sure what to tell you. :screwy:


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## wfochris (Dec 15, 2007)

Old thread is old, but very good for new guys like me.

Question-

Do you use anti-seize on the outer threads, to make sure that those are the first threads to 'give' when you're loosening a nut- preventing the entire stud from backing out?

After working on cars for 15 years, I'm *almost* to the point that every threaded fastener I deal with gets red loctite if I'm planning on never taking it out again, and anti-seize if I think I will. 

Of course it's not that simple, but things like spark plug threads, lug nuts, exhaust fasteners, etc. all get anti-seize. 

Example-

Red loctite in frame & body-mounted rocker guards that should never need to be removed, and you can see a bit of the anti-seize in the hub on the unit bearing that was just replaced (bad reputation for locking onto the spindle.) Of course I wiped the excess off after the photo was snapped and job was done.










Red loctite is strong, but sometimes corrosion and leverage are stronger.

Thoughts?


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## zcar4me (May 16, 2011)

Unless we're talking internal engine components, I usually just use blue. Red is nearly impossible to get off. But yes, I'm a firm believer in anti-seize as well... exhaust components, lugs, spark plugs, etc...


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## mswlogo (Jan 30, 2009)

Safety wise they are probably ok.

But those lug nuts are begging to get stripped with the impact wrench set way too high by the same monkey in the dealer that stripped your hubs.


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## FACTORYBOOST (Sep 12, 2011)

I don't have a CC, but I came across this thread in a search...
How have the studs been for you?
I mean I feel like there should be more threads in the hub for it to stay in there, and I know you are supposed to torque the lug bolts to 88, so what should you torque the lug nuts to if you do the conversion?
Also, how hard is it to get the studs out if you decide against them?


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## Eff Bags (Nov 8, 2006)

For everyone looking at this thread, OP uses studs from Bildon Motorsports; unfortunately Bildon is out of business and will not answer calls or emails to return your money. I learned the hard way - paid them, waited weeks, tried contacting them, no response still to this day. :thumbdown:


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## FACTORYBOOST (Sep 12, 2011)

Eff Bags said:


> For everyone looking at this thread, OP uses studs from Bildon Motorsports; unfortunately Bildon is out of business and will not answer calls or emails to return your money. I learned the hard way - paid them, waited weeks, tried contacting them, no response still to this day. :thumbdown:


Where did you end up getting them from or are you still waiting to get some?


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## Eff Bags (Nov 8, 2006)

FACTORYBOOST said:


> Where did you end up getting them from or are you still waiting to get some?


i no longer have my car. never bought any after being shafted $120 by Bildon.


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## Aonarch (Dec 4, 2006)

Eff Bags said:


> For everyone looking at this thread, OP uses studs from Bildon Motorsports; unfortunately Bildon is out of business and will not answer calls or emails to return your money. I learned the hard way - paid them, waited weeks, tried contacting them, no response still to this day. :thumbdown:


Ouch! Truly sorry that happened. I had no idea. I used to order tons of stuff from them.


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## ajz9415 (Feb 7, 2005)

That sucks


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## RatCityBowlers (Mar 17, 2009)

this is useless and makes your wheels look terrible. Studs are not better and you risk getting the wrong nuts and having issues down the road. I work at a dealer and in 4 years the only f-d up hub i've ever seen is from people cross threading lugs. If your dealer is stripping out hubs quit going to them. Torque your lugs, press on the bottom of the wheel to keep the wheel on the hub when installing, use anti-seize if your worried(i don't in washington). DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY ON STUDS. If your running spacers or aftermarket wheels use hub centric spacers or centering rings. They sell them at les schwab and their like 12 dollars. If that doesn't work your spacers are unsafe regardless of lugs or studs. When you come into a dealer with studs, we laugh at your car. When you think we're checking your car out, we're really pointing and laughing. If you do it right, dealer techs take way better care of your car becuase we can tell you really care about your car. Enthusiasts take care of enthusiasts in the dealer world.


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## wfochris (Dec 15, 2007)

Exactly why my car won't go to a dealer. Service based on the perception of my level of enthusiasm? To hell with that.


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## Aonarch (Dec 4, 2006)

RatCityBowlers said:


> this is useless and makes your wheels look terrible. Studs are not better and you risk getting the wrong nuts and having issues down the road. I work at a dealer and in 4 years the only f-d up hub i've ever seen is from people cross threading lugs. If your dealer is stripping out hubs quit going to them. Torque your lugs, press on the bottom of the wheel to keep the wheel on the hub when installing, use anti-seize if your worried(i don't in washington). DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY ON STUDS. If your running spacers or aftermarket wheels use hub centric spacers or centering rings. They sell them at les schwab and their like 12 dollars. If that doesn't work your spacers are unsafe regardless of lugs or studs. When you come into a dealer with studs, we laugh at your car. When you think we're checking your car out, we're really pointing and laughing. If you do it right, dealer techs take way better care of your car becuase we can tell you really care about your car. Enthusiasts take care of enthusiasts in the dealer world.


Lol ok... Studs do not make the wheels look bad. And not getting the right nuts, way easier to get correct lug nuts than lug bolts in the US. Summitracing stocks the correct fit for OEM ball and conical. Thanks for the lecture all wise and knowing tech.


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## FACTORYBOOST (Sep 12, 2011)

Aonarch said:


> Lol ok... Studs do not make the wheels look bad. And not getting the right nuts, way easier to get correct lug nuts than lug bolts in the US. Summitracing stocks the correct fit for OEM ball and conical. Thanks for the lecture all wise and knowing tech.


I almost posted before and you said what I was going to say in less words. :thumbup:

And just cuz you make a living working on VW's doesn't mean you are the end-all be-all of VW knowledge; and arrogance doesn't look good on you.


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## DiegosAnotherr1 (Sep 24, 2013)

FACTORYBOOST said:


> I don't have a CC, but I came across this thread in a search...
> How have the studs been for you?
> I mean I feel like there should be more threads in the hub for it to stay in there, and I know you are supposed to torque the lug bolts to 88, so what should you torque the lug nuts to if you do the conversion?
> Also, how hard is it to get the studs out if you decide against them?


Sorry to bring up an old thread, but can anybody give their opinion on this? I'm trhinking about doing this, but want to make sure it is reversible incase I change my mind. Also, would there be any problems when changing rotors? Thanks


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## NolaMKVI (Jul 28, 2014)

So.. swapping the studs out for longer ones reduces the strain and wear on the hubs? If im understanding correctly i mean.
one of my hubs is giviing off a slight warpping noise at about 25mph. Ive changed the rears on my old A34 (2004) maxima before and it was easy so im going to do these too.

Thinking I may purchace this mod and lugs and do this when i swap out both rear hubs..


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## flipflp (Dec 10, 2012)

NolaMKVI said:


> So.. swapping the studs out for longer ones reduces the strain and wear on the hubs? If im understanding correctly i mean.
> one of my hubs is giviing off a slight warpping noise at about 25mph. Ive changed the rears on my old A34 (2004) maxima before and it was easy so im going to do these too.
> 
> Thinking I may purchace this mod and lugs and do this when i swap out both rear hubs..


A stud conversion is convenient because you now have studs to hang your wheel on when swapping them. It also eliminates POTENTIALLY wearing out of the threads on the hub due to tire rotations/changes. The hubs on a car are MUCH harder to replace than studs in this case, or lug nuts if they wear. Otherwise the only reason you would do this is if you wanted to, for fun. Using lug bolts is just fine for 99% of CC owners.

The reason I did a stud conversion was to run special lug nuts, and to use spacers. With my wheels using a cone seat (versus a ball seat, like factory wheels) and my car having studs, I get to do odd stuff like this:

IMG_20140812_131233 by flipflop097, on Flickr

Replacing the hubs requires specialized tools and presses. I believe what you are thinking of might be the brake rotors. If they are warped you might get a vibration when braking. I'm not familiar with a vehicles hubs making a warping noise, or what a warping noise sounds like.


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## Stero1D (Aug 8, 2012)

flipflp said:


> A stud conversion is convenient because you now have studs to hang your wheel on when swapping them. It also eliminates POTENTIALLY wearing out of the threads on the hub due to tire rotations/changes. The hubs on a car are MUCH harder to replace than studs in this case, or lug nuts if they wear. Otherwise the only reason you would do this is if you wanted to, for fun. Using lug bolts is just fine for 99% of CC owners.
> 
> The reason I did a stud conversion was to run special lug nuts, and to use spacers. With my wheels using a cone seat (versus a ball seat, like factory wheels) and my car having studs, I get to do odd stuff like this:
> 
> ...


Where did you get yours kit from and what it ran?))


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## flipflp (Dec 10, 2012)

Stero1D said:


> Where did you get yours kit from and what it ran?))


I got my kit from 034 Motorsports, I believe it was the 2" long ones but would prefer 2.25" if they offered it. 2.5" would have been too long.

http://store.034motorsport.com/whee...gen-audi-porsche-applications-conversion.html


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## Stero1D (Aug 8, 2012)

flipflp said:


> I got my kit from 034 Motorsports, I believe it was the 2" long ones but would prefer 2.25" if they offered it. 2.5" would have been too long.
> 
> http://store.034motorsport.com/whee...gen-audi-porsche-applications-conversion.html


N it wld wrk with 5mm spacers upfrnt?

P>S> Nuts the offer for thosse studs are not CUTE :laugh:


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## flipflp (Dec 10, 2012)

Stero1D said:


> N it wld wrk with 5mm spacers upfrnt?
> 
> P>S> Nuts the offer for thosse studs are not CUTE :laugh:


I'm using 6mm spacers with mine and they are fine.

I know, but they work. My nuts are definitely cuter.


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## Stero1D (Aug 8, 2012)

flipflp said:


> I'm using 6mm spacers with mine and they are fine.
> 
> I know, but they work. My nuts are definitely cuter.


lets see ur nuts! :screwy:


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## NolaMKVI (Jul 28, 2014)

flipflp said:


> Replacing the hubs requires specialized tools and presses. I believe what you are thinking of might be the brake rotors. If they are warped you might get a vibration when braking. I'm not familiar with a vehicles hubs making a warping noise, or what a warping noise sounds like.


Complete hub change out is only $110-$140 and its only 4 bolts, complete hub is switched, you need a press for the bearing I believe. 

http://www.europaparts.com/wheel-bearing-kit-1t0598611b.html

why change bearings when its easier to change the whole thing. lol :thumbup:


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## unctucker (Aug 24, 2013)

First thing, I know this is old but i could not resist from commenting. What a Di(@, you have the balls to comment to someone by saying you and your coworkers point and laugh at customers who convert to wheel studs? Actually thats what VW should have gone with in the first place and maybe you and the guys pointing fingers would get the wheels mounted without screwung up the hubs on our cars. Its a proen fact that studs and nuts are much better than the lug bolts. Also, the aftermarket selection for the lug nuts is huge, many options in color and material.


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## biffobear (Nov 18, 2011)

DiegosAnotherr1 said:


> Sorry to bring up an old thread, but can anybody give their opinion on this? I'm trhinking about doing this, but want to make sure it is reversible incase I change my mind. Also, would there be any problems when changing rotors? Thanks


It's reversible, discs will simply pull over the studs once calliper and disc retaining screw is removed


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## [email protected] (Jun 11, 2014)

We carry full stud conversion kits for the CC:



M14x1.5 Stud conversion kit - $119.99 with free shipping

Quite a few of my co-workers have this kit on their track cars. It's definitely a plus when you're at the track and are swapping wheels or doing brake work.
I plan on installing one of these kits before our next track day. :beer:


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## Stero1D (Aug 8, 2012)

How would it work if i run Track+ H&R 20mm spacers? They bolton to the hub and than wheel bolts on to them.....


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## snobrdrdan (Sep 10, 2008)

Stero1D said:


> How would it work if i run Track+ H&R 20mm spacers? They bolton to the hub and than wheel bolts on to them.....


You'd have to buy regular 20mm spacers to use with the studs (attached to the OEM hub)

It'd be a bad idea, IMO, to use the stud conversion on the track+ spacers


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## Stero1D (Aug 8, 2012)

snobrdrdan said:


> You'd have to buy regular 20mm spacers to use with the studs (attached to the OEM hub)
> 
> It'd be a bad idea, IMO, to use the stud conversion on the track+ spacers


Thats what i thought, just wanted to make sure!

Thanks, Dan 


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