# fixing CVs and oil leaks



## 4ePikanini (Aug 29, 2007)

sump is leaking - private guy overtightened and stripped the front and rear carriers.
gearbox pushrod seal and output shaft is leaking. Workshop machined instead of replacing. Luckily it seems as though the clutch hasn't been contaminated.
midas boots on cv's didn't last a year, wrecking the CVs
This time I'm fixing myself
I have removed and rebuilt the half shafts tonight
dropped the sump and decided that the rear carrier will be replaced and the front carrier will be tapped one size bigger.
to do list
CVs inners and outers with boots
drop tranny
replace pushrod and bush as well as output shaft seal
front and rear crank carriers and seal ( front tapped and rear replaced while tranny is out )
work has commenced


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## 4ePikanini (Aug 29, 2007)

The workshop that did my cambelt last year stripped the 4 pulley bolts. Can I get that pulley or whole front crank assembly off without removing those 4 bolts. I should get the crankbolt off easily enough.
That way I can send it in to have it machined out without having to pull the entire engine to send it out.
I am now leaving to get an easy out set but I doubt it's gonna work.


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## 4ePikanini (Aug 29, 2007)

Nevermind. with the crankbolt removed the pulley comes off with finger pressure.


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## 4ePikanini (Aug 29, 2007)

some pics and the first hole in the front carrier is sleeved.
My first ever sleeved thread. woop woop.


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## 4ePikanini (Aug 29, 2007)

all 3 sleeved. I feel so proud.
Now I can reassemble the front end but I still need to pull the gearbox in the coming week to swap (_luckily found a rear carrier with seal from goldwagen_) the rear carrier and gearbox seals.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: (fourie_marius)*

If you drill the heads of the four bolts off, the threaded part will come out by hand, then all you have to do is replace the 4 bolts and the crank bolt. Done it may times when the hex strips out. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif And inspect the key cast as part of the gear, might be a good time to replace it if it has started the self destruction they are known for.


_Modified by ps2375 at 12:54 PM 3-28-2010_


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## 4ePikanini (Aug 29, 2007)

Thanks. My drill bits are too weak for that type of drilling. I'm still contemplating buying a better bit or having it done by a workshop.
I got the pulley off by removing the crankbolt, so it will be easy to send away.
The keyway and all other parts look fairly good with very minimal signs of wear after I cleaned up all the grime.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: (fourie_marius)*

The bolts are fairly soft, the reason why they rounded. A sharp drill should have no problem with them. And that does look pretty good. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 4ePikanini (Aug 29, 2007)

*Re: (ps2375)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ps2375* »_The bolts are fairly soft, the reason why they rounded. A sharp drill should have no problem with them. And that does look pretty good. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Thanks. It's not bad considering it's got 320'000km on it. I just wish the guys I paid did it right the first time.
I suppose the saying rings true that you have to do it yourself if you want it done right. It shouldn't be that way though








Anyway, I enjoy working on it and the satisfaction when the job is done is priceless.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: (fourie_marius)*

I guess you know who not to pay to do it, now. And who not to recommend to others.







And, you are correct, It really shouldn't be that way.


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## 4ePikanini (Aug 29, 2007)

*Re: (fourie_marius)*

I got some work done last night.
Cleaned all the parts I removed
Got some fresh paint on the cambelt cover, valve cover and sump.
Replaced the cambelt and tensioner while I had access - It looked a bit oily
got the front carrier and seal on.
Torqued down the crankbolt. Manual says 90Nm + 90 degrees. I stopped at an extra 45 degrees, as I was torquing over 210Nm at that stage.
belts back on.
Now I need to drop the gearbox and do the rear seal on the crank with carrier and the gearbox seals.
pics below


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: (fourie_marius)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Good idea to change what you did since you had it all off.


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## 4ePikanini (Aug 29, 2007)

*Re: (ps2375)*

gearbox is out with much fuss. Whoever reads this remember to move the gearbox towards the front of the car otherwise if it moves the other way the axle hub things get stuck between the flywheel and chassis. And then it's a PITA to get it out.


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## 4ePikanini (Aug 29, 2007)

pics are pretty self explanatory. This is where I got to last night. I bought a 9mm 12 point socket for the flywheel bolts but still need to go and get a 17mm 12point for the pressure plate bolts as the normal 6 side is not suitable for the FT bolts that hold it on.


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## 4ePikanini (Aug 29, 2007)

reassembly has begun


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## Jgarrigan (Apr 4, 2010)

*Re: fixing CVs and oil leaks (fourie_marius)*

hey just curious if your CVs made a certain sound when they wore out i have a weird grinding sound when i'm heavy on the gas and it sounds like the outer CV or maybe a wheel bearing? not to sure. what do you think it is?


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## 4ePikanini (Aug 29, 2007)

a cv cluck cluck clucks around bends when worn.
a rumble is usually wheel bearings
a whine is usually an alternator or pulley that's gone
cv's don't fail very often unless the boot got damaged and dirt got in


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## 4ePikanini (Aug 29, 2007)

all assembled.
No leaks and no funny noises.
woop woop!


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