# ABA G60 questions.



## efritsch (Aug 21, 2002)

Ages ago, I started a thread on building an ABA G60. Life being what it is, I never had the chance to get very far. Recently I just bought a Pre-built setup, charger and all. There are a few things that I don't like and I'm going to fix them before I put this in my Syncro.










So my first question is, can I run the oil return for the charger to the oil pan, instead of drilling and tapping a hole in the block? I'm thinking of putting as close to the top of the pan as possible. The previous owner didn't have the rear charger bracket on it simply put a fitting in the plastic part that runs along the block. 










Second question for now is, where does one mount the knock sensor?


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Knock sensor just use one of the unused holes on the front of the block. Works fine, I'm doing it.

Also drill the hole in the block for the drain. You just need to drill through one of those other holes in the front that are not being used. (The gladder return line will screw right into it) The motors out, it takes like 5 mins. Pull the pan, put a scrunched up oily or damp rag behind where the drill bit will poke through. And drill it through. The rag will catch any fillings, wipe it clean. and re-install the oil pan with new gasket. You want to a new pan gasket anyways, and its way easier with the engine out.. :thumbup:


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## efritsch (Aug 21, 2002)

Well, I'm going to pull the pan anyway, just to take a look inside. I was just curious if you could just drain it back directly to the pan like most turbo guys do.

Also, anyone know a good way to get the dipstick tube out? I need it out to get that damned external oil passage off.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Make certain the oil return line comes in above the level of the oil in the pan. To remove the dip stick its easiest to do with the pan off, just tap it out with a punch. Once you pull it you'll need to buy a new one. 

I'm a fan of drilling out the hole in the block. Use the same hole that the G60 block uses as it has the same threads and all. It works beautifully.


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## vwuberalles2003 (Dec 1, 2004)

efritsch said:


> Ages ago, I started a thread on building an ABA G60. Life being what it is, I never had the chance to get very far. Recently I just bought a Pre-built setup, charger and all. There are a few things that I don't like and I'm going to fix them before I put this in my Syncro.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Just make sure to tap into the block engine oil galley- the g charger needs active oiling rather than passive oiling. The pressure has to be good.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Uhh what?

You get the oil from the side of the head. Just like on a stock G60. And all 8v heads have an oil port on the side of the head. The return just dumps into the side of the block. It's really nothing at all to drill out one of those threaded stand offs. I did it on my current block.


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## vwuberalles2003 (Dec 1, 2004)

G60 Carat said:


> Uhh what?
> 
> You get the oil from the side of the head. Just like on a stock G60. And all 8v heads have an oil port on the side of the head. The return just dumps into the side of the block. It's really nothing at all to drill out one of those threaded stand offs. I did it on my current block.


I know. that's what I'm saying to do. Block or head, either way oil pressure needs to be present. you can't depend on gravity oil feed.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Well from the sounds of it this engine already has it's feed line worked out, which is as easy as screwing the G60 adapter piece into the side of the head. And the return line is the issue, but it sounds like the oil pan is coming off anyways, it's a really basic thing to work out. It will be more work to drill and weld a bung onto the oil pan then just drill that hole through the block. (and you can use a stock G60 return line, with the oil pan you will need to make a line)


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## efritsch (Aug 21, 2002)

Yeah, oil feed is the stock location and I even have a brand new feed line to boot. I'm just doing to use a hole in the block. I'll have to drill and tap.

Does any one know what size the frost plug is that I need to seal the hole in the block where that plastic oil passage used to go? I took a rough measurment but was curious if anyone knew off hand.

I think I have a game plan for the rear charger bracket, instead of buying and modding both the charger bracket and CIS block off plate kit, I'm thinking of just having a welding friend of mine fill in the raised part on the bottom of the charger bracket than making a flat gasket for underneath.


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## efritsch (Aug 21, 2002)

Oh! Another question.

I'm ditching the ABS system on my car and converting to a standard vacuum boosted setup. My question is, where should hook the vacuum tube up to for the booster? I thought about using a digi Fox intake but it will take a little bit of work.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

intake manifold:


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## efritsch (Aug 21, 2002)

I still have my ISV on my car so that location doesn't work for me. I'm assuming you have it running to the large port on the intake manifold.

The Fox manifold has an added port/pipe on the back for this. It would interfere with the throttle but where I work, rotating it wouldn't be a real hassle.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

I still have the ISV, its just hidden by the strut bar. There ae three ports on the front of the G0 intake manifold:

FPR 1/8"
ISV 3/4"
brake booster/hvac 3/8" or 7/16"


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

There is another large port right above the ISV port.

My Check valve is further down the line. Super important this is working well, don't want boost getting into your Brake booster.


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## efritsch (Aug 21, 2002)

I see now. I was confused for a minute but I still have all the evap crap hooked up.

I suppose I can just ditch all the evap stuff and use that port on the intake for the brakes then. I'll have to check and see if I have the check valve in the setup I bought. Is the check valve the stock valve?


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

The check valve is stock. Normally its attached to the hard plastic brake booster hose. On the G60 engine it normally Ts into the intake manifold with the emissions vacuum hoses. On my car I eliminated just about all of them and thats why you just see a 90* hose from the check valve to the intake manifold. There are normally two ports on that cv but one of them broke so I put a screw in the hole and then JB welded over the screw head. The one port you see ran to the firewall and then to the accumulator behind the PS fender, the HVAC controls and then to the G60 instrutment cluster and my boost gauge. 

I capped of the 3.5 barb on the back of the TB that didn't run to the ECU. I capped the port on the TB for the 8mm vacuum hose that ran over to the emissions items. I ran the valve cover breather to the setup by the air filter so the stinky air could be sucked into the charger. I ran the tank vent hose to the charcoal canister and then it vented to the area right by the air filter


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## efritsch (Aug 21, 2002)

So let me get this staight. You ran the vent line from the fuel tank direct to the charcoal canister and then just let the canister vent to atmosphere near the intake and eliminated all the rest of the hoses?

That will eliminate so many places for vacuum leaks. Just gotta make sure everything else still works after!

Tomorrow I'm getting the new timing belt and tensioner, water pump, crank seals and oil pan gasket with windage tray. I'll drill out the return port at that time too.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

correct and yes it does eliminate most of the potential vacuum line boost leak issues.


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## IMWALKIN (Mar 28, 2002)

this is all good info.. what software are you planning/currently running..??


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

I'm now running a TDI with malone tuning. That is an old motor of mine. Back then I had tunes from a couple different companies an to be honest none of them were perfect. Standalone is the way to go for people that like to try various combos


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## IMWALKIN (Mar 28, 2002)

yea standalone would be best...but I'm pretty sure Im going to put a eurospec 2.0 PG longblock in my corrado and need to figure out a gas chip...I have a stage 4..


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## efritsch (Aug 21, 2002)

The European market got a 2.0L PG? That would make things so much easier! At any rate, I bought a new water pump and a oil pan gasket with a windage tray. New crank seals too.

Does anyone know what size frost plug to get for the hole in the ABA block?










*Also, just how critical is having the oil squirters?* I was told this was an OBD 1 block but upon draining the oil and pulling the pan, it appears it's an OBD 2 block. *facepalm*


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

don't stress the oil squirters, you'll be fine. The bigger problem is the cast crankshaft, but again for the power you will make with a G-ladder it will hold up just fine.

I removed my charcoal canister all together, my fuel tank just vents to atmosphere (Yaaa Canada!)

I run SNS STG4 chip. It's horrible on fuel, but makes consistent power. I say "consistent" because that's the best way to describe it. When I go WOT I know what I'm going to get every time, no more mystery. It always overfuels, so it would work out fine for a 2.0 ABA/PG hybrid. And in all fairness it makes way better power vs. Stock or the Neuspeed P-Chip I had before it.


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## efritsch (Aug 21, 2002)

Well I'm running a stock pulley on a stage 3 charger with the RSR outlet and supposedly appropriate chip. It only makes 11psi in that configuration.

Sad thing it that your Stage 4 get better mileage than my stage 3. I average 13.4mpg. That'spart of the reason I'm doing this. After 589,000km, she's worn out so I figured I'd upgrade while I'm in there. 



Either way, I'll forge ahead with this block and see what happens. I reall would rather not swap motors again. It's such a pain in a Syncro. Maybe I'll build the OBD 1 block up slowly and make it a 2.1 something a little wild if I have to do it again.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

LOL but mine's not worn out. 

It's under 100,000km on an 8.5:1 bottom end. Back in spring 2009 when I melted my first PG. The replacement head was cleaned up at that time too. There was lots of buildup on top of the intake valves which could hurt power and fuel economy. The valves were re-used but taken out and cleaned/prepped.

Even right now I could go pull the plugs and bang out 160-170psi compression test across all 4 cylinders. It just runs rich all the time.


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

efritsch said:


> The European market got a 2.0L PG? That would make things so much easier! At any rate, I bought a new water pump and a oil pan gasket with a windage tray. New crank seals too.
> 
> Does anyone know what size frost plug to get for the hole in the ABA block?
> 
> ...


efritsch
I believe it is a 70mm freeze plug. I used the TT block off plate for oil return....
Is your last name happen to be Fritsche?


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

REPOMAN said:


> efritsch
> I believe it is a 70mm freeze plug. I used the TT block off plate for oil return....
> Is your last name happen to be Fritsche?
> http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b...GrNs1cNQe3nwo/cC/f=0/ps=50/r=0/rx=550/ry=400/



I think you might have mistyped that and meant 40mm


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

G60ING said:


> I think you might have mistyped that and meant 40mm


My bad, correct 40mm:thumbup:
:beer::beer:


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## efritsch (Aug 21, 2002)

REPOMAN said:


> I used the TT block off plate for oil return....


I don't want to use use that. I'd like to have the rear support bracket for the charger.



REPOMAN said:


> Is your last name happen to be Fritsche?


Close. Fritsch is my last name, e is my first initial.


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

For a G charger i would definetly use the rear support bracket...
You can tap a return fitting into a freeze plug but i would recomend brazing a return tube/oil line
to the oil pan below the oil level.
My last name is Fritsche is why i asked..
:beer::beer:


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## efritsch (Aug 21, 2002)

REPOMAN said:


> My last name is Fritsche is why i asked.. :beer::beer:


Haha! We're probably related some where way back down the line. 

Now, the question is: Paint it or just clear coat it?


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

Painted looks great, I like Blue...
















:beer::beer:


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## efritsch (Aug 21, 2002)

I do like blue but if I go blue, i think it'll have to be a darker shade. The block I'm using is a hybrid of black and rust. Im under too much of a time crunch to make it real pretty.


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## efritsch (Aug 21, 2002)

So the main seals are in.










My question to the masses is this. Which hole in the block should I use?










This pic is rotated 90 degrees so the two holes on the left are the ones on the bottom. The 'top left' one would drain into the dipstick passage. The 'bottom left' will drain next to the pump but I'm afraid the line might interfere with the filter. The 'right' one drains into a passage that goes to the pump but doesn't go into the block directly.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Hmmm? The one on the right, or the more upper one if the picture was upright would be the one to use. It shouldn't go anywhere, until you drill it that is, then it will just run down the inside of block and back into the oil pan.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

I agree the upper right. The only picture of the oil return line is this one:


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## efritsch (Aug 21, 2002)

I noticed that there is a 'bubble' inside the block behind that hole. I assumed it went over to the oil pump passages but upon looking into a bare ABA block I have, it apparently doesn't. 










I guess that one is the winner then.


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## efritsch (Aug 21, 2002)

Jeez. I didn't realize how large my iPhone pics were. Sorry guys. 

At any rate, an update. 

The 40mm Frost plug is indeed the correct size for that hole in the front of an ABA. 

Apparently what looks like a passage in the block, as seen in that large pic above is just an odd bubble in the block. I drilled through it with no issues and it wasn't even that thick. 

Edit: I forgot to add that my 3.5bar FPR and adjustable cam gear are in route from Techtonics Tuning. I am trying to order the aluminum idler pulleys from gruvenparts.com but am having some issues with their site.


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## efritsch (Aug 21, 2002)

A bit of an update: 

Frost Plug is in. 40mm was the magic number. 










I got a oil pan gasket with windage tray from a TDI. To install it, you have to pull the oil pump, put the gasket on, and then re-install the pump. 




















Does anyone know if you can remove the adjuster arm? I figure it has to be removable but I can't easily figure out how. 










Also, if you ever have the urge to sand blast a large, rough cast aluminium bracket with lots of crevices, don't. It takes a while, its heavy and unless you want to spend a retarded amount of time on it, it just doesn't look good. Paint coming soon. 










The Adjustable Timing Gear and 3.5 bar fpr should be here on the 1st and then the motor gets put all together for the swap starting friday. 

Motor as it sits now. Intake has to come off yet and get cleaned up. Need to get a power steering pump. Gotta put fluid into the transmission and angle drive. Lots to do and not enough time to do it.


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## BellCityDubber (Jun 13, 2007)

efritsch said:


> Does anyone know if you can remove the adjuster arm? I figure it has to be removable but I can't easily figure out how.


Eric man! What the ****'s been up dude?! 
why you no come to monday nights anymore? 
we mees you....
bring angle drive, I need measurements  
Come see new project (I know it's a hell of a drive, but you can pick up some ideas and inspiration)

Yeah... anyways.... uhm... tensioner arm.... pull the cap... remove the....17mm or 19mm??? bolt.... hammer the arm the hell off the pin..... hammer pin back out thru the back of the bracket.

I had to relocate mine on the twincharged project to get enough tension/belt wrap.


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## efritsch (Aug 21, 2002)

I've just been busy and the car has been kinda bitchy. I won't be out this monday as I'm putting the 2L in with the modified transmission and a retarded amount of other stuff this weekend, starting tomorrow afternoon. 

I can bring the angle drive on a Monday for sure though. If you're in town this weekend and want to see the Syncro drivetrain sitting on the floor, gimme a call. I'll be at work all weekend with the entire drive train out of the car.

As for ideas and inspiration, I'm calling it quits with any further upgrades and mods on this car for now. Once I get the Syncro behaving proper, the focus will become the Fox. I am considering a slow build of the other ABA (which is an OBD1) and bore it out bigger but that's further down the road.


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## BellCityDubber (Jun 13, 2007)

efritsch said:


> I've just been busy and the car has been kinda bitchy. I won't be out this monday as I'm putting the 2L in with the modified transmission and a retarded amount of other stuff this weekend, starting tomorrow afternoon.
> 
> I can bring the angle drive on a Monday for sure though. If you're in town this weekend and want to see the Syncro drivetrain sitting on the floor, gimme a call. I'll be at work all weekend with the entire drive train out of the car.
> 
> As for ideas and inspiration, I'm calling it quits with any further upgrades and mods on this car for now. Once I get the Syncro behaving proper, the focus will become the Fox. I am considering a slow build of the other ABA (which is an OBD1) and bore it out bigger but that's further down the road.



I'm not sure if I'll be out either. I took care of who/what I needed to take care of on monday, so I gotta focus back onto the project.... just about ready to drive it.... sorta... but if you're going there shoot me a msg.

Yeah, eventually at some point I'd like to have syncro in the corrado. but I'm unsure if the angle drive will fit considering my turbo manifold comes WAY down. I'm told it wont hit, but I'd like to be sure things have room.

hey.... got any extra digi 1 computers?
or any leads on spare syncro setups?


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