# Cam Follower has nothing to do with fuel cuts...



## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

*UPDATE ONE:
NEED HELP IMMEDIATELY*:

I just got my diagnosis completed. All four cylinders are misfiring and it has been traced back to the crankcase breather valve (pcv). Part number is: 06F129101N. Dealer price is $69.87.

I've done searches and can't get a definite part to come up. Is this different then the PCV valve because some searches come up as that. I just changed this thing out and I don't think it's that. What other valve could it be?

They also said I should probably get my spark plugs changed out although I just did those about 20k ago. They also said I should probably be ok with the current coil packs. I need to call them back and let them know what I want done.



*UPDATE TWO*:
Ladies and gentleman problem solved. Just replaced the coil packs and spark plugs, drive about fifteen miles with no fuel cuts. I took the car to autozone and they reset the engine light. So far it has not come back on.

Now for my next question, why would these or at least some of the coils and plugs go bad so fast considering the last time I changed them was about 20k ago. Does oil get in these ports and ruin them? If that is the case then how can I prevent this from happening?

Otherwise, the problem has been taken care of, no more fuel cuts, yeah!


*START HERE:*
*ORIGINAL THREAD STARTS HERE:*

For my situation that is. My fuel cuts or what feels like fuel cuts, continue to get worse and worse. After reading everything about this relating to the cam follower I went ahead and checked it this weekend and to my surprise this it what I came up with: (pic's a bit blurry but you get the point)








So looking at everything I see virtually no damage at all. Sure the cam follower is a bit worn but it is smooth as butter. The plunger on the HPFP looks to have no sign of wear at all, the cam shaft looks just fine.

WHAT NEXT!

I need to get these fuel cuts taken care of. I've also read it could be related to the fuel pump in the gas tank. Can anyone advise me as to other areas I could trouble shoot? Sensors, lines, anything???

FYI: I have already replaced the DV, pcv and breather tube. Appreciate the help!

I should add my symptoms. Accelerating from 2nd to 3rd gear I randomly experience power lose to the engine, it regains power after about 1 to 2 seconds later(this has been going on for some time but very random). I now get hesitations in every gear when accelerating. The only time I don't feel it is when I very gradually accelerate. Could this possibly be the mechatronic unit?
I hope not!


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## bacillus (Apr 21, 2011)

Have you changed that follower seeing that the coating has worn through?

You need to do some live logging of your fuel rail pressure (requested vs actual) to determine if it's really a fuel cut.

btw what are your mods?


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

Haven't changed the cam follower since 63k. I would have replaced it but didn't have a new one on me. I can throw one in once I get one from the dealer. I was really expecting to see some damage, in return not having to worry about replacing it. Have the dealer do the warranty work from the letter I just got in the mail about the cam follower.

I have no mods at all.

I don't have the software to log fuel rail pressure unfortunately. I'm assuming this will help me pinpoint what I might have to focus my attention towards?


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

I ordered a thrust sensor (sensor on the hpfp). I will change that out and see if anything changes. If not I guess the next thing will be the electronic fuel pump that's in the gas tank. 

Would love any additional feedback on other ideas. Thanks


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## bificus99 (Aug 2, 2008)

bacillus said:


> Have you changed that follower seeing that the coating has worn through?
> 
> You need to do some live logging of your fuel rail pressure (requested vs actual) to determine if it's really a fuel cut.
> 
> btw what are your mods?


 Yes your follower has some wear on it, good thing you looked! And yeah log fuel pressure.


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## hellogoodbryan (Mar 29, 2010)

I went through hell with fuel cuts just a couple months ago but I am stage 2+. The problem in my car was the solenoid at the top of the fuel pump had failed so it was not getting the proper readings. 
Trying to fix this avoiding high costs I replaced the cam follower, in tank pump, and the fuel filter (Also had mechatronic replaced under warranty). None of these fixed it so like everyone said logs are the best way to tell. Just wanted to let you know what my problem was.


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

hellogoodbryan said:


> I went through hell with fuel cuts just a couple months ago but I am stage 2+. The problem in my car was the solenoid at the top of the fuel pump had failed so it was not getting the proper readings.
> Trying to fix this avoiding high costs I replaced the cam follower, in tank pump, and the fuel filter (Also had mechatronic replaced under warranty). None of these fixed it so like everyone said logs are the best way to tell. Just wanted to let you know what my problem was.


 I do appreciate everyones help. Not sure exactly what or where the selenoid you are referring to is. Here is a pic to were I am replacing the thrust sensor. 









I'm just trying to troubleshoot myself before I have to take it to the dealer or dubwerx for the fuel logs etc. Figure I'd replace this part first and see what I come up with. If this doesn't work I'll move on to possibly the pump in the tank but from what you said it sounds like that wasn't your issue.


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## hellogoodbryan (Mar 29, 2010)

That looks like the top so yeah. It wasn't described as the thrust sensor by APR but yeah, if it is the top part when looking at it while in the engine it is the one that failed on my car. I hope it is the problem because I ended up throwing all of those parts at the car, then still buying a new APR pump like a week after the sale ended.


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

I found this from 08: 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3908205-Dealer-Tells-me-that-I-have-software-issues-(APR) 

Reading through it, it sounds like changing the thrust sensor worked for some and not for others. We'll see in a few days when I receive the part. Fingers crossed!


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## Mr.OrlandoA4 (Oct 14, 2010)

good post and im learning every bit :thumbup:


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## ihasmkv (May 4, 2008)

The thrust sensor is the brass sensor off to the left side of the pump if you are looking at it from the front of the car. If this does not fix the fuel cuts, you may have to check if your low pressure fuel pump is going out on you. 

I would replace that follower soon. Wear looks strange. Is the middle worn or is that still the DLC coating?


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

No it is just the coating. Yeah I will probably go ahead and replace although I replaced it around 63k. 
I received the thrust sensor. 








I was expecting to get the sensor that is on top of the hpfp. No big deal I will replace but what is the actual name of the sensor on the top: 








I'll change the thrust sensor out this weekend and report back. 
The low pressure fuel pump you are referring to is in the gas tank correct?


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## spiritrider1 (Jun 3, 2011)

*Me too!*

I just joined this forum to start getting some help t/s'ing my problems. I have the same cutouts from 45K - 55K in 4th & up. Just installed APR stage II. Didn't have this problem prior to this. I was running stage I for almost a year with no issues. It doesn't present itself unless I go to manual (DSG) and floor it. These are my VAG-Com readings: 
P0087- Fuel Rail/System Pressure: Too Low 
P0642 - Sensor Reference Voltage A: Circuit: Low 
P2004 - Intake Manifold Flap; Bank 1: Stuck Open 
P3137 - Intake Manifold Runner Control: Basic Setting not Completed 
My car is set up with this: Carbonio intake, Billy Boat downpipe w/cat, BHS boost tap, NewSouth boost guage, & BSH PCV catch can.


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

I'm stock and unfortunately don't have readily available access to vagcom. I wish I could get some readings and post for people to help troubleshoot further. For now I'll just change out a few things and see what I come up with but if it comes to a point, off to the dealer/shop. 
I did read somewhere that their software was flashed wrong and made the car underperform. You may want to double check that.


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## hellogoodbryan (Mar 29, 2010)

rdjr74 said:


> I was expecting to get the sensor that is on top of the hpfp. No big deal I will replace but what is the actual name of the sensor on the top
> I'll change the thrust sensor out this weekend and report back.


 I do not know the name of the solenoid on top. I was told by APR that they don't know of anyone that sells it separately and the best thing to do is buy a used pump with a solenoid that works. Sorry I couldn't be more help but definitely report back. Hope the thrust sensor is the issue. 

Also just a piece of advice, don't end up like me and replace almost everything before biting the bullet and buying the new HPFP. I would suggest after this find somewhere to run logs.


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

hellogoodbryan said:


> I do not know the name of the solenoid on top. I was told by APR that they don't know of anyone that sells it separately and the best thing to do is buy a used pump with a solenoid that works. Sorry I couldn't be more help but definitely report back. Hope the thrust sensor is the issue.
> 
> Also just a piece of advice, don't end up like me and replace almost everything before biting the bullet and buying the new HPFP. I would suggest after this find somewhere to run logs.


 LOL! Yeah logs seem to be in order here if this thrust sensor doesn't help.


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## bificus99 (Aug 2, 2008)

spiritrider1 said:


> I just joined this forum to start getting some help t/s'ing my problems. I have the same cutouts from 45K - 55K in 4th & up. Just installed APR stage II. Didn't have this problem prior to this. I was running stage I for almost a year with no issues. It doesn't present itself unless I go to manual (DSG) and floor it. These are my VAG-Com readings:
> P0087- Fuel Rail/System Pressure: Too Low
> P0642 - Sensor Reference Voltage A: Circuit: Low
> P2004 - Intake Manifold Flap; Bank 1: Stuck Open
> ...


 You got 2 probs bud, might want to start with the flap motor DIY and find a vag com owner and run fuel logs.


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## spiritrider1 (Jun 3, 2011)

bificus99 said:


> You got 2 probs bud, might want to start with the flap motor DIY and find a vag com owner and run fuel logs.


 I just ordered from Ross-tech to get the additional data. I may also de-mod the car step by step and see if anything changes.


07 Audi A3 2.0T FSI S-Line w/DSG: APR stage II, BB downpipe w/cat, Carbonio CAI, BSH boost tap & comp catch can, NewSouth boost gauge.


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

Well, I changed out the thrust sensor. NOT THE PROBLEM! Still getting hesitations/fuel cuts. Damn it, I guess off to the dealer.


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## hellogoodbryan (Mar 29, 2010)

Sad to hear it. You still under warranty?

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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

spiritrider1 said:


> I just joined this forum to start getting some help t/s'ing my problems. I have the same cutouts from 45K - 55K in 4th & up. Just installed APR stage II. Didn't have this problem prior to this. I was running stage I for almost a year with no issues. It doesn't present itself unless I go to manual (DSG) and floor it. These are my VAG-Com readings:
> P0087- Fuel Rail/System Pressure: Too Low
> P0642 - Sensor Reference Voltage A: Circuit: Low
> P2004 - Intake Manifold Flap; Bank 1: Stuck Open
> ...


 I was getting the P0087 code and a P310B code when my thrust sensor/LPFP went out. I was getting fuel cuts when just cruising on the highway, though. I replaced the thrust sensor and the in-tank LPFP and haven't had any issues since. 

As for the Intake Manifold Flap/Runner codes, those pop up on my scans from time to time but the RPM's are always at 0, meaning the car isn't running. I would only worry about them if you get them when the car is actually running. 

Anyway, hope that helps.


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

TBomb said:


> I was getting the P0087 code and a P310B code when my thrust sensor/LPFP went out. I was getting fuel cuts when just cruising on the highway, though. I replaced the thrust sensor and the in-tank LPFP and haven't had any issues since.
> 
> As for the Intake Manifold Flap/Runner codes, those pop up on my scans from time to time but the RPM's are always at 0, meaning the car isn't running. I would only worry about them if you get them when the car is actually running.
> 
> Anyway, hope that helps.


 And you were getting numerous fuel cuts as well? I think you stated that in other threads we both have ventured, can't remember for sure. 

That was going to be my next replacement, the in tank pump. 200 buckaroos, ugghhhh, this car is expensive to maintain!


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

hellogoodbryan said:


> Sad to hear it. You still under warranty?
> 
> Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk


 Ohhhhhh no! Well out with 86k.... It is an 06.... 

You like you droid 2? I have an incredible, still kicks ass!


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## hellogoodbryan (Mar 29, 2010)

I like the droid 2. Its just I would rather have the droid x. The phone works great though so I can't complain.

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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

hellogoodbryan said:


> Trying to fix this avoiding high costs I replaced the cam follower, in tank pump, and the fuel filter.


 When you replaced the in tank pump, did the fuel pump control module come with it? It is located on the top of the pump. Also, did you need a vagcom when replacing? Does the car have to adapt to the new pump? 

I was reading this page 22: 
http://vw.nate-online.com/techdocs/2.0L FSI.pdf


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

rdjr74 said:


> When you replaced the in tank pump, did the fuel pump control module come with it? It is located on the top of the pump. Also, did you need a vagcom when replacing? Does the car have to adapt to the new pump?
> 
> I was reading this page 22:
> http://vw.nate-online.com/techdocs/2.0L FSI.pdf


 Pretty sure the "fuel pump control module" as you called it is part of the in tank pump. It is all one piece that basically fits into the top of the fuel tank and acts as the "lid" for the opening, then a metal lockring holds it in place. I did not need a Vag Com, although I did scan for codes afterwards and saw a soft code for the pump being unplugged. 

To answer your other question, yeah, I was experiencing multiple fuel cuts, something to the tune of 30-40 during an hour and a half of driving on the highway. 

No issues so far after replacing the thrust sensor and in tank pump :thumbup:


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## SmithersSP (May 24, 2006)

I've personally dealt with damn near every fuel issue in the FSI book. Logs of the fuel rail and low pressure system would be helpful in eliminating either half of the overall system as a possible problem. After that it's a matter of doing individual tests and logs. Can you get us a log of both during a fourth gear pull? Group 230 for high, group 103 for low.
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/2.0l_TFSI_(AXX/BGB/BPJ/BPY/BWA)#Checking_Fuel_Pressure


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## hellogoodbryan (Mar 29, 2010)

Yeah. The pump is all one piece as stated and no vag com was necessary. Have you made it to the dealership yet?

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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

SmithersSP said:


> I've personally dealt with damn near every fuel issue in the FSI book. Logs of the fuel rail and low pressure system would be helpful in eliminating either half of the overall system as a possible problem. After that it's a matter of doing individual tests and logs. Can you get us a log of both during a fourth gear pull? Group 230 for high, group 103 for low.
> http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/2.0l_TFSI_(AXX/BGB/BPJ/BPY/BWA)#Checking_Fuel_Pressure


 The only way I can get logs would be through the dealer or Dubwerx, unless I can find someone with a vagcom that is willing to test this out with me. I did met a guy with a vagcom when I first got my car to have certain things done(daytime running lights, key program, etc.) 



hellogoodbryan said:


> Yeah. The pump is all one piece as stated and no vag com was necessary. Have you made it to the dealership yet?[/url]


 Nope not yet. 
I did notice something this morning, I really laid into it entering the highway, I happened to look down at the dash and noticed the small orange engine light popped on twice very briefly, never stayed on. 

...And thanks for the info tbomb...


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

Been debating doing this since I started the thread and some of you may disagree before doing fuel logs but I think I may just go ahead and replace the in tank fuel pump. 

Any additional thoughts on this? 

I found this part number in an old thread but I think it's an older version: 1K0-919-051-CL 

I also found the pump here: 
http://www.drivewire.com/search/?D=...al:0)&refValue=brand&events=Brand-OES Genuine 

I believe it would be the pump listed for $191.95 (part number: W0133-1899692) 
I was also told I need a flange gasket. 
This price seems to be competitive. Thoughts or other suggestions...


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## SmithersSP (May 24, 2006)

I would actually agree with you. What I found was that either the in tank pump (or possibly the pump module) would has a sudden/short cutout under high temperatures. This happened to myself and two other people in my club. I could actually feel the cut then watch it on VC-Scope. The newer style pumps apparently allow more fuel to flow around the pump which keeps it cooler. An easy way to tell is that A) The problem gets worse with higher ambient temperatures, and B) it can be temporarily eliminated by fueling up. Since the fuel in the underground tanks is around 52F it helps to cool off the overheating pump. Logging group 103 however will be the only way to know for sure.


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

That's interesting. It has been in the 90's here is Cincy. I just filled up Saturday and the car seemed to be experiencing less or next to no cuts. Now I am a little under 3/4 tank and they are back and in full force.

And the link I provided, does that part number appear to be the most up to date part number? I suppose I could just go ahead and call VW.

Also this, quoting myself from earlier:
"I did notice something this morning, I really laid into it entering the highway, I happened to look down at the dash and noticed the small orange engine light popped on twice very briefly, never stayed on."

Has anyone in you club or you experience the engine light coming on intermittently and possibly relating it to fuel cuts? This is the first time I have noticed this. I suppose it could be related to the cuts.


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## hellogoodbryan (Mar 29, 2010)

I had a flashing cel the first time I really felt the fuel cut out. But my cel was throwing a p2293 a lot. 

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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

To achieve logging fuel trim I bought this:
http://www.buyandfun.com/product_info.php?language=en&currency=USD&products_id=5060
Yes it is the cheap route and there are good reviews and bad reviews but being conscious about saving some money I figure I'm only out 22 bucks if it doesn't work the way I need it to.
My intensions are to use it with an app in the android market called "Torque":
http://www.appbrain.com/app/torque/org.prowl.torque
This app is five dollars and has received excellent reviews. Taking this route will save me a lot of money vs. other means of logging fuel trim. I just hope the car is compatible with the app to be able to log fuel trim. I will let you guys know.
I found a good pdf about fuel trim btw:
http://www.stealth316.com/misc/obdii_fuel_trim.pdf
I also found a decent video for dummy's like me to help understand fuel trim, gets a bit redundant around the five minute mark but otherwise helpful:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzsOY_AhgY4


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

Engine light came on and stayed on this time on my way home from work. Damn it, or maybe it's a good thing.


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## jettajunker (Jan 20, 2008)

My car just did this today!!! I was driving normal and all of a sudden I lost power like it was studdering. Check Engine light came on and it flashes. Would that cam thing do this? I too just got this letter from VW and I just hit 91000 miles


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

That's how I started this thread, about the cam follower. Just go ahead and read my first post. That is my experience. So yes some people have claimed it to be related to the cam follower, mine is not. I suggest reading this entire thread. It will help you. I'm still in the process of finding a solution.


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## SmithersSP (May 24, 2006)

If I were you guys I would take the car in and see if the dealership will redo the fueling system under warranty, even if it is the low pressure pump. Even if they know it isn't the high pressure fuel system they may do it because they want warranty work for their numbers. Then after all of that doesn't fix it slap in a new low pressure fuel pump.


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

How can they do warranty work when I'm at 86k and this other guy is at 91k? Hell if I could get warranty work done I wouldn't have even started this thread. ; )


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## SmithersSP (May 24, 2006)

Because the HPFP system and cams have been extended! :thumbup:
http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145758


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

rdjr74 said:


> Haven't changed the cam follower since 63k. I would have replaced it but didn't have a new one on me. I can throw one in once I get one from the dealer. I was really expecting to see some damage, in return not having to worry about replacing it. Have the dealer do the warranty work from the letter I just got in the mail about the cam follower.


Quoting myself here. I have no damage. That's what the pic's show in my very first post of this thread I created. I can't go that route unfortunately. That's the whole reason for this post. I changed the thrust sensor, didn't work, now I'm waiting on a scan tool to run some fuel trim logs. I may just go ahead and do the pump in the tank as you agreed with earlier in a post.


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## jettajunker (Jan 20, 2008)

Well I am soo frustrated! As I posted before I am on the way home. I baby my car and take really good care of it. All of sudden it just loses power and kinda studders (sp?). I have looked for hours at these types of symptoms online and a lot of it points to the cam follower. I have noticed that the lifters or top of the engine has gotten a lot louder where it sound like a diesel. This is how the story goes. I called Strong VW of Salt Lake City and I told them about the letter I got and what happened to my car. Everyone online states that it is easy to check you cam follwer. But before doing it, I wanted to make sure that if I pulled it apart if it would VOID this new extension. The service guy said that YES IT WOULD VOID IT AND VW WOULD NOT BE RESPONSIBLE!!!!!! So now I am forced to take it in and cross my fingers hoping that the cam follwer is the problem. If not, $90 Diagnosis Charge. 

The service guys also stated that he has only seen one cam follower go bad in like 1500 cars. And that the one he saw was in a diesel and that it was the guys fault for putting the wrong fuel in it. I was thinking BS because if it were so, why the crap is VW sending out this letter? I am sure more people are complaining about it! I felt that he wanted to discourage me from bringing it in. I feel totally bent over by CORPARATE not wanting to man up and accept their defect. I'm still gonna take it in because I received another letter about the air bag sensor and mine has gone out too! I love VW but they need to make more reliable cars!!!!


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

Having the right tools and taking a look at your cam follower will not void anything! PERIOD! Take pics like I did and put it back together. Have you taken off the hpfp before? Only real part you need that isn't in most peoples tool box is a 8mm triple square bit or socket(also called "star") like this:
http://www.google.com/products/cata...qs0AHF4fD9Cw&sqi=2&ved=0CEUQ8wIwBA#ps-sellers

This link shows what I used along with taping a 8mm socket wreck to it. This is used for taking off the banjo bolt. Google search it, I want this thread to stay on topic as I am beyond the cam follower and have moved on to other parts causing my fuel cuts.

My opinion on the whole cam follower wearing prematurely is I feel that people haven't quite kept up on oil changes and or they are demanding more power from their engine through mod's. Strictly my opinion.


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## SmithersSP (May 24, 2006)

jettajunker said:


> The service guys also stated that he has only seen one cam follower go bad in like 1500 cars.


To which I would have responded with, "Liar liar pants on fire." JHines does like 3 a week at the dealership. They keep followers, HPFP's, and rev B cams in parts inventory for a reason! VW doesn't extend specific aspect of their warranties for that low of failure rate. 

Sounds like a ****ty dealership rep IMHO...


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## jettajunker (Jan 20, 2008)

I took my car into the dealership this weekend. My car just cut out and was bucking and the lifters were loud as crap. I got the letter too and assumed that this was the problem. When I took it they looked at the follower and told me it was good no problems...I don't know how much to believe that since they did not allow me to see.. Before taking it in I told them I was going to open it up to check the follower and they told me that if I did it would VOID everything. So when I took it in, they guys said they have only seen one case of this in the Salt Lake City Area. Well I paid the darn $90 diagnosis fee and they found that the bucking and CEL was from a bad Coil Pack so they replaced it for free and they said that there are some boost isssue and etc that the computer is still picking up. But the car runs great now. So if your car is losing power etc. Tell them to check your Coil Pack, they said that there was some kind of recall on them.


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

And I did that recall. Wonder if they went bad on me or if they even changed them out. Not sure how I can check that. I don't think you can visually inspect and determine that to be the cause. Anyone know what to look for on a visual inspection of coil packs?

Also, any type of codes that the car throws if a coil pack is bad?

Honestly though, I would say more then not that if the dealer saw that something was wrong with your follower they would have replaced it and anything else that needed it. They don't lose any money on warranty work. It was nice of them to replace the coil pack for free. They aren't expensive to begin with but either way nice of them. And you should check/replace your DV if you feel like your car isn't quite as fast as you feel it should be. When I did my DV and PCV my car regained speed which I thought was gone forever due to age, I was wrong. Now these damn fuel cuts are a pain!


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## SmithersSP (May 24, 2006)

Use VagCom to check for misfires. That's the easiest way to detect a bad coil. :thumbup:


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

I'm hoping that this bluetooth OBD and android app will be able to get the codes for me. Sounds like the app will do everything I'm needing.


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## hellogoodbryan (Mar 29, 2010)

Any news on the fix?

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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

Haven't forgotten. I just received the OBD II scan aaannnnddddddd it doesn't FN work! I'm between emails with the developer of Torque to see if he has any feedback on my specific situation but it doesn't look promising. There's 23 bucks straight down the drain it appears. I may have no choice but to send the car off to the dealer damn it. I will keep you posted.

UPDATE:
Just got a couple more codes to try with the OBD II adaptor. Will be trying later when I get a chance. Fingers crossed! Ian Hawkins, developer of Torque (android/ Iphone app) has been very helpful! Thanks Ian..


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## dmorrow (Jun 9, 2000)

rdjr74 said:


> Haven't forgotten. I just received the OBD II scan aaannnnddddddd it doesn't FN work! I'm between emails with the developer of Torque to see if he has any feedback on my specific situation but it doesn't look promising. There's 23 bucks straight down the drain it appears. I may have no choice but to send the car off to the dealer damn it. I will keep you posted.
> 
> UPDATE:
> Just got a couple more codes to try with the OBD II adaptor. Will be trying later when I get a chance. Fingers crossed! Ian Hawkins, developer of Torque (android/ Iphone app) has been very helpful! Thanks Ian..


If you end up taking somewhere, you mentioned Dubwerx, and I strongly recommend them. Far less per hour and they will work with you and tell you if they aren't sure what the cause is.


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

dmorrow said:


> If you end up taking somewhere, you mentioned Dubwerx, and I strongly recommend them. Far less per hour and they will work with you and tell you if they aren't sure what the cause is.


I'll probably go there again. It's just a pain, Fairfield VW is down the street, dubwerx is cross town. I think there's only about a 10-15 dollar difference hourly rate.

UPDATE: I just read on there website it's 60 an hour. Not sure why I was thinking it was closer to the dealer. My last service there was the dsg if you remember. It was 230, I don't remember the break down though.


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## dmorrow (Jun 9, 2000)

rdjr74 said:


> I'll probably go there again. It's just a pain, Fairfield VW is down the street, dubwerx is cross town. I think there's only about a 10-15 dollar difference hourly rate.
> 
> UPDATE: I just read on there website it's 60 an hour. Not sure why I was thinking it was closer to the dealer. My last service there was the dsg if you remember. It was 230, I don't remember the break down though.


I had a suspension issue where Audi couldn't figure it out. Audi charged me $100 to look at it. Took it to Dubwerx and they also weren't sure but didn't charge me anything. They did have some recommendations which I decided to try and second go around got it (cheaper parts and labor than Audi). 

I also live about 4-5 miles from there and it is closer than Audi for me.


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## roadraceimp (May 20, 2008)

If the check engine light is flashing under load your experiencing detonation not a fuel cut. From what i've seen on a handfull of higher mileage GTI's, the spark plug gap is .060"-.080" which is too much for the ignition coil's to light off the air/fuel mixture under high load/boost at the correct time, especially if your chipped. You may want to check the spark plugs, if they have not been replaced recently. hope this somewhat helps:thumbup:


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

roadraceimp said:


> If the check engine light is flashing under load your experiencing detonation not a fuel cut. From what i've seen on a handfull of higher mileage GTI's, the spark plug gap is .060"-.080" which is too much for the ignition coil's to light off the air/fuel mixture under high load/boost at the correct time, especially if your chipped. You may want to check the spark plugs, if they have not been replaced recently. hope this somewhat helps:thumbup:


It does help. No chip, the light stays on now. I have started leaning towards possible plugs or coil packs although I replaced the plugs at 63k and did the recall on the coil packs at 73k. I now have 87k. They shouldn't be having this issue considering the the life of them but you never know, esp. with this engine.


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## jettaguy40 (Aug 14, 2010)

im having the same issues..when in 5th or 6th gear under accleration i start to sputter n shudder...ive been told it might b the fpr.but its a sporatic thing.ik theres been a recall for early model mk v's with the 2.0t for the fpr and the cam follower.its kinda annonying when ur tryin to pass people and ur spuutering and shudderin as u do it


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

jettaguy40 said:


> theres been a recall for early model mk v's with the 2.0t for the fpr and the cam follower


That's been covered in this thread but thanks. That is not my issue, see my first post.


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## bificus99 (Aug 2, 2008)

Were you able to use the torque app yet?


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

bificus99 said:


> Were you able to use the torque app yet?


Negative. Still trying to get a refund from the OBD II that didn't work. I'm hearing that there is a $50 one on a website called deal extreme that works, may go that route.


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## Jayj (Jul 1, 2011)

I'm going to suggest checking for carbon build up on the intake valves/ports. It would be ideal if you had access to a small inspection camera that you could thread into the iat sensor hole above the throttle body.


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## MKVGTIAZ (Jul 13, 2010)

that honestly sounds like coils, i see you got them done recently. from what you write with the engine light flashing on a few times then going off the power issue. i had the same issue when i got tuned, granted your all stock sounds like we had the same issues. i noticed on my boost gauge that anything at or over 15 psi, hard acceleration the coils would cause misfire which would set the engine light blinking at me then goes away. when it got bad enough it just stayed on till i got the coils replaced. not sure if this helps in your diag but good luck. these cars are tricky bastards


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

Yes they can be the bastard child from hell! At least I can beat this child although the real child needs one from time to time.

I did get a refund from OBD that didn't work. I haven't had time to take to get looked at. Next week I hope. Anyone know how a warranty for the recalled coils works? I got them replaced about 17-18k ago?


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## moltonboron (Dec 18, 2008)

I think I'm getting fuel cuts as well. When this happens to you guys is it only in the upper RPM range (4k+?) or anywhere in the band? When I have been merging on the highway this past week I would get some harsh loss of power / some kind of like force where my car does not accelerate smoothly. Basically cutting in and out. (I'm only in between 2 - 3k in RPMs - Maybe in between 5 - 10lbs of boost). 

(I've had my coilpacks replaced almost a year ago when they did the recall, had my mechatronic unit replaced 2 weeks ago, replaced my cam follower just maybe 2 - 3 months ago).

(Edit: Also, I'm running catless right now, so my CEL is on and can't tell if I'm throwing a new code. Just got me a sick deal on a GHL DP - Will be in soooon :thumbup


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## YoungMedic (Mar 22, 2006)

ive been having the same problem. 06 gti 6MT, cam follower good, Changed plugs, havent had the recalled coils replaced yet, need to make an appt. and everytime I try to run logs, the car wont replicate the problem. then when it does I dont have my lap top. 

It can happen in any gear, usually 2-3000 rpm, and will happen even under the lightest throttle not even into boost yet. 

The cool thing is if you stay in it the car sounds like a boxer engine :laugh:


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## GTI2Slow (Jun 23, 2007)

Fuel pressure return valve can be a issue if you are not able to meet requested rail pressure and everything else checks out. It might be a good time to upgrade to the RS4 (136 vs 130 bar) valve, Audi PN 079 130 757.


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

GTI2Slow said:


> Fuel pressure return valve can be a issue if you are not able to meet requested rail pressure and everything else checks out. It might be a good time to upgrade to the RS4 (136 vs 130 bar) valve, Audi PN 079 130 757.


 Where is this located? 

No my cuts are throughout and random but I will always experience cuts when driving the car, guaranteed. I will be getting my car diagnosed next week, that is the plan anyways. I'm starting to or have been leaning towtards the coil packs. Mine were also replaced around 18K. I changed the oil and the air filters this weekend and also reset the spark plugs and coils of course (since I was in there). Nothing changed but didn't think it would. 

BTW is there a tool to grab the spark plugs and pull them out? Silly question but needed to ask. If I could only get theses cuts taken care of the car would be running great. 

Dreading the timing belt swap coming very soon, between the next two oil changes.


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## GTI2Slow (Jun 23, 2007)

It's underneath the intake manifold, look for a brass fittint to the right of the throttle body. If your actual rail pressure is significantly below requested and everything else checks out it could be a issue. The stock one bleeds pressure off if it is over 130 bar, sometimes less.


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

GTI2Slow said:


> It's underneath the intake manifold, look for a brass fittint to the right of the throttle body. If your actual rail pressure is significantly below requested and everything else checks out it could be a issue. The stock one bleeds pressure off if it is over 130 bar, sometimes less.


 Much appreciated. Add that to the list. Any chance you could post a pic of where this is located. Not familiar with this issue. First time this has come up. thanks again!


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## 16vsilverstreak (Dec 5, 2001)

My '93 Ur S4 had similar problems under boost. I had a hell of time tracking it down. The coil leads from the coils to the plugs were shot. I replaced 3 of the 5 and it was smooth sailing, however it loved to eat sparkplugs, hybrid turbo.


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

I have an appointment with the dealer Monday. Well will see what happens. I know, I know, dmorrow I do want to take it to dubwerx but it's well out of the way and I have limited time and I also have to do the airbag recall still so I figure I'll kill two birds with one stone. 

I hope it's not the throttle body. Aren't those close to 400 and a pain to change out?


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

NEED HELP IMMEDIATELY: 

I just got my diagnosis completed. All four cylinders are misfiring and it has been traced back to the crankcase breather valve. Part number is: 06F129101N. Dealer price is $69.87. 

I've done searches and can't get a definite part to come up. Is this different then the PCV valve because some searches come up as that. I just changed this thing out and I don't think it's that. What other valve could it be? 

They also said I should probably get my spark plugs changed out although I just did those about 20k ago. They also said I should probably be ok with the current coil packs. I need to call them back and let them know what I want done.


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

Unfortunately not immediate enough... Oh well. The tech took the car out again to see if he could replicate the misfires/ fuel cuts but could not. Very hard to believe this because it does it to me EVERY TIME I DRIVE THE CAR! I'm having the service manager take my car home with him tonight to see if he car replicate it, and beat my car. Not very excited to do this but someone needs to experience this from the dealer. I'm not sold on it being the PCV due to the fact I just replaced it not to long ago. They say everything points to it. Any advice from the crowd?


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## dmorrow (Jun 9, 2000)

If they really believe it is the PCV then I don't know how you will get them to change their mind without changing it. Problem is you are stuck with the cost when it doesn't fix the issue. I guess it isn't too expensive to try.

Have you thought about going there, driving it with the Service Mgr. as the passenger and letting him feel the issue?


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

dmorrow said:


> If they really believe it is the PCV then I don't know how you will get them to change their mind without changing it. Problem is you are stuck with the cost when it doesn't fix the issue. I guess it isn't too expensive to try.
> 
> Have you thought about going there, driving it with the Service Mgr. as the passenger and letting him feel the issue?


No that's really not an option as I do live close to the dealer but I work in northern Kentucky. If they call tomorrow and couldn't replicate the issue I have constantly then I will probably get paperwork of the diagnostic and hope that Dubwerx can work from that to avoid another charge. I called them last week but never heard back. I'm not going to keep the car at the dealer, i don't see how it could be the pcv again. I hope they call tomorrow and give me better news but I'm not optimistic at this point.

I may put the old pcv back in and see what happens. Mine as well. Very frustrating spot to be in right now.


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## Jayj (Jul 1, 2011)

I would ask them what your long/short term fuel trims are sitting at, would atleast confirm a vacuum leak and make the repair more plausible. Also they should be monitoring misfire counters while test driving anyway.


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

Jayj said:


> I would ask them what your long/short term fuel trims are sitting at, would atleast confirm a vacuum leak and make the repair more plausible. Also they should be monitoring misfire counters while test driving anyway.


Will the diagnostic print out show this? Also, they couldn't replicate the misfires while test driving as of yest. which really is hard to believe considering I get them guaranteed every time I drive the car. And on top of that they tell me I get misfires on every cylinder but yet they don't get anything while test driving, come one seriously. I just put a call into the dealer to check and see if the service manager experienced anything while driving it home yesterday.


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## Jayj (Jul 1, 2011)

Gff will show some freeze frame data for the misfire faults but won't show long term or short term on the print out. These are things to monitor while test driving with a scan tool. If they say it's leaning out from a faulty crank case breather valve then they would be looking at fuel trims. If they look at you dumbfounded then they really aren't doing their jobs.


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

Jayj said:


> Gff will show some freeze frame data for the misfire faults but won't show long term or short term on the print out. These are things to monitor while test driving with a scan tool. If they say it's leaning out from a faulty crank case breather valve then they would be looking at fuel trims. If they look at you dumbfounded then they really aren't doing their jobs.


Thanks! Just got off the phone, they did experience the misfires while driving but only on cylinder one. The multiple misfires from all cylinders were from the log and over time. Don't understand why all cylinders had misfired randomly and over time, if you can explain that I'd appreciate it. As far as fixes, they recommend changing the spark plugs and at least change the cylinder one coil pack. They did the manual test with the crank case breather valve, you know where you take a hose off and cover it with your hand and if it does something it shouldn't (I'm not to clear on the process but it sounds like you might) then it is bad. I'd appreciate it if you could explain that to me so I can test it myself. I suppose it could have went bad and if it has then I will be contacting dbcperformance where I purchased it online and requesting a replacement. It shouldn't have went bad already. Just changed it in March. thanks again!


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## Jayj (Jul 1, 2011)

The random misfire fault is the first fault to store when misfires are recognized and then it localized it and stores a misfire fault for a specific cylinder. So it's plausible that you have one cylinder misfiring. So if it's on one cylinder then your breather valve probably isn't the culprit as it would affect all cylinders. Usually I'll monitor the maf reading at idle then I'll plug the manifold port and recheck the mac reading.. If it comes up then the valve was leaking. You can also remove the valve and put pressure on the valve and see if it holds and also pull it apart and check the diaphragm. If I remember correctly, some valves are different due to a design change of the large pipe that comes off the back of the valve cover. Some hoses have a one way valve some don't. Vw came out with an updated breather valve so you might want to change it over anyway. Your other option would be to install a catch can and void issues in the future .


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

Jayj said:


> The random misfire fault is the first fault to store when misfires are recognized and then it localized it and stores a misfire fault for a specific cylinder. So it's plausible that you have one cylinder misfiring. So if it's on one cylinder then your breather valve probably isn't the culprit as it would affect all cylinders. Usually I'll monitor the maf reading at idle then I'll plug the manifold port and recheck the mac reading.. If it comes up then the valve was leaking. You can also remove the valve and put pressure on the valve and see if it holds and also pull it apart and check the diaphragm. If I remember correctly, some valves are different due to a design change of the large pipe that comes off the back of the valve cover. Some hoses have a one way valve some don't. Vw came out with an updated breather valve so you might want to change it over anyway. Your other option would be to install a catch can and void issues in the future .


Yes I'm going to take the breather tube from the pcv off and hold my hand over the hole on the pcv. From how it was explained to me is that if it then idles smooth then I do indeed have a bad pcv. Would that be the correct procedure?
I did change the rear breather valve(metal tube) when I changed to the updated pcv. The new breather valve does have the black little valve inside the tube where as the old one did not.
I just placed an order for new spark plugs and four new coil packs. I'm first going to see about the pcv and if it does show failed then I will put the old one back on and see what happens.


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## Jayj (Jul 1, 2011)

I've never tested on in that manner. Usually, as stated above, I'll cap the line that runs between the breather and manifold, at the manifold and then drive it to check for long term fuel correction. Your breather valve may not be at fault since you told me that your misfires are localized on cylinder 1.


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

Jayj said:


> I've never tested on in that manner. Usually, as stated above, I'll cap the line that runs between the breather and manifold, at the manifold and then drive it to check for long term fuel correction. Your breather valve may not be at fault since you told me that your misfires are localized on cylinder 1.


Yeah that is how the misfires came back when they drove it this morning, from cyl. one but yest. he did say I was getting misfires from all cylinders is past logs.


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

Got my car back. Two codes, po300 and po301. They didn't charge me anything which was nice buuuuuuut wait, oh looky there my rim is scratched to Hell. You've got to be kidding me! Funny thing is, as I type this I noticed in the paperwork that the tech has noted, do not wash, chips in the windshield and rims damaged, wtf! I've never seen that before. I feel some shady **** going on and it's not going to work on me. I can't win with this car. Nothing but bad luck. I'm already called and a message was left for the service manager.


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## MadJerry (Sep 25, 2008)

rdjr74 said:


> buuuuuuut wait, oh looky there my rim is scratched to Hell.


I have about the same luck every time I take my car in to get fixed as well. It seems like there is always something incidental that happens such that when I get it back it is not in the condition in which I left it...


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## rdjr74 (Jun 26, 2007)

Ladies and gentleman problem solved. Just replaced the coil packs and spark plugs, drive about fifteen miles with no fuel cuts. I took the car to autozone and they reset the engine light. So far it has not come back on.

Now for my next question, why would these or at least some of the coils and plugs go bad so fast considering the last time I changed them was about 20k ago. Does oil get in these ports and ruin them? If that is the case then how can I prevent this from happening?

Otherwise, the problem has been taken care of, no more fuel cuts, yeah!


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## YoungMedic (Mar 22, 2006)

GTI2Slow said:


> Fuel pressure return valve can be a issue if you are not able to meet requested rail pressure and everything else checks out. It might be a good time to upgrade to the RS4 (136 vs 130 bar) valve, Audi PN 079 130 757.


how in the hell is this little brass fitting over 100 bucks ?! aye carumba!


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## tomsvrtx (Nov 10, 2009)

Does oil get in these ports and ruin them? If that is the case then how can I prevent this from happening? 

Seems to me that the surface tension of oil will pull it along a smooth surface. On shinny plastic a thin stream of oil will crawl right under a rubber seal considering it is on the hot, shaking engine, that a course surface might prevent... 

my #1 coil pack burned at the connector, the primary's shorted. I went to my used spare engine to to find it's #1 had a new connector spliced into the wire harness and a brand new coil pack. I think any oil spilt while filling, can destroy the #1 coil pack and being that sensitive to an oil mist: i am not surprised they are all close to failure.


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