# launch control



## rocklizzard91 (Dec 18, 2007)

*megasquirt: launch control/flat shift, fans and shift light*

how do i add launch control/flat shift, fans and shift light to my MS-I v3.0?
i would like to know what i need to do to the board. and how to wire it all up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








thanks!
also not sure hwo to work the fans and shift light in megatune or tuner studio. (ive got the launch control and flat shift i think)



_Modified by rocklizzard91 at 1:48 AM 1-24-2010_


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## jmaddocks (Jan 31, 2004)

*Re: megasquirt: launch control/flat shift, fans and shift light (rocklizzard91)*

Everything you need to know is here. You should be able to find all the circuit components at Radio Shack, mount them on a breadboard, and put the breadboard in its own enclosure or as a daughterboard inside your ECU. 
I just installed shift lights (one green LED for the lower limit and a really bright yellow one for the upper limit) on my A-piller gauge cluster last weekend. They work great. I put the PCB (breadboard, actually) in its own enclosure with MS pin 10, MS pin 11, and ground as inputs and the two LED negatives as outputs. I'm running v2.2, so your inputs and MS PCB mods will be different. 
Working on launch control this weekend. The circuit's a little simpler, so I'm putting everything as a daughterboard inside the ECU with the clutch pedal switch (switch to ground) as an input. Also recently got everything running with Megatunix. I'm pretty excited in a geeky sort of way.


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## rocklizzard91 (Dec 18, 2007)

*Re: megasquirt: launch control/flat shift, fans and shift light (jmaddocks)*

swet! thanks!
but im not sure what all that means








why do i need a breadboard?
it seems like i just need to solder a wire to JS11 and then do that switch dealio. (i assume 5v from tps +5v means just the 5v ref wire for my tps correct? and 0v means ground?)








(im also wondering how to get the new pin wires out? (ex- how do i get js11 outside the box? drill a hole? connect to the db37 cord? if its the cord, how do i add the wire to it?)
sorry for so many questions. im VERY new to this. so please bear with me







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## jmaddocks (Jan 31, 2004)

*Re: megasquirt: launch control/flat shift, fans and shift light (rocklizzard91)*

You don't _need_ a breadboard per se, but there's limited (if any) room on the MS PCB to put any extra stuff. In other words, you'll need to mount the two diodes and the resistor somewhere. 
You are correct that the TPS signal is +5v, and 0v means ground.
In my setup, the switched ground is from the clutch pedal (w/ a relay), and it runs through a single wire to a spare pin on the DB37, specifically pin 31, which goes to X14 on the v2.2 board. Rather than using the TPS signal, I sourced the +5v from the JP1 header on the board to keep everything but the ground signal inside the ECU enclosure.
Use the DB37 to get the wires out of the enclosure. I'm not very familiar with the v3.0 PCB, but this is straight from the hardware manual: 
"The V3.0 PCB has 4 spare connectors (SPR1 to 4) these can be used for various inputs and outputs for the following circuits as they are conveniently available on the 37pin DB connector:
SPR1 = Pin3 of 37pin db
SPR2 = Pin4 of 37pin db
SPR3 = Pin5 of 37pin db
SPR4 = Pin6 of 37pin db"
You may need to add an additional wire to the male end of your DB37, unless your harness already has "growth" provisions, i.e. spare wires. Hope this helps.


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## rocklizzard91 (Dec 18, 2007)

*Re: megasquirt: launch control/flat shift, fans and shift light (jmaddocks)*

oh i had planned on mounting it inline on the wires.
bad idea?
i think ive got quite a bit of room in my box. it might all fit.
i'll look soon. i do like the idea of everything but the ground being in the box.
im not sure what you mean about the relaying the ground.
you dont just ground one side so that when the switch gives you continuity you have it grounded?
ok so if i use a jumper wire from js11 to spr1 it will use pin 3 and use that wire to get out?
spr1 has nothing else that the wire uses at all?
again, thank you for all yoru help. i really appreciate it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## jmaddocks (Jan 31, 2004)

*Re: megasquirt: launch control/flat shift, fans and shift light (rocklizzard91)*

Yeah, you can put the diodes and resistor inline on the wires -- I have a pull-up resistor mounted that way for my tach, and it's held up fine.
I had to relay the clutch pedal switch (like  this), which was originally for the cruise control. The switch is closed when the clutch pedal is out and opened when the pedal is pushed in, which is opposite what you'd want. I looked at mounted a brake light switch there instead, but the distance between the mounting bracket and pedal wouldn't work. 
I believe you're correct on spr1/pin 3 -- you can test it with a multimeter to make sure.


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## rocklizzard91 (Dec 18, 2007)

*Re: megasquirt: launch control/flat shift, fans and shift light (jmaddocks)*

sweet. i'll look into breadboards. never used one before. if all i had to do was the ground wire outside th box with that it'd be nice.
awesome link! i forgot about the CC switch on the clutch already! i was going to try to fab up a way for a brake switch as well. splicing into that switch would be a much easier way http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
as far as the spr1/pin3 i was just worried it woul dbe used for something else and it'd give me grief. good to know it shouldnt.
i think im gonna tackle this project in the next couple days







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








thanks for walking me through this http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
should help others out later if they search for it too


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## jmaddocks (Jan 31, 2004)

*Re: megasquirt: launch control/flat shift, fans and shift light (rocklizzard91)*


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## rocklizzard91 (Dec 18, 2007)

*Re: megasquirt: launch control/flat shift, fans and shift light (jmaddocks)*

you mentioned something about a resistor for your tach too.
does adding a resistor make my stock tach work again?! (please say yes....im tired of a dead, non working tach)


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*FV-QR*

Is it a Mk1/2 tach or Mk3 tach?


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## rocklizzard91 (Dec 18, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (need_a_VR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *need_a_VR6* »_Is it a Mk1/2 tach or Mk3 tach?

its a mk3 tach


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*FV-QR*

Build this:








Using a 4.7k pullup to 12v, works on all Mk3.


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## rocklizzard91 (Dec 18, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (need_a_VR6)*

wait. is that to make the cluster work?
or to give the MS board a tach signal?
my MS has a signal.
i want my cluster to have a signal since i deleted the stock ECU


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## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (rocklizzard91)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rocklizzard91* »_wait. is that to make the cluster work?
or to give the MS board a tach signal?
my MS has a signal.
i want my cluster to have a signal since i deleted the stock ECU

thats the give the cluster a tach signal... your ms gets its tach signal from the hall sensor or crank wheel already


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*FV-QR*

Feed the output of that to the cluster for it to read rpm out of the MS.


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## rocklizzard91 (Dec 18, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (need_a_VR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ValveCoverGasket* »_
thats the give the cluster a tach signal... your ms gets its tach signal from the hall sensor or crank wheel already









yes. thats why i was like







it has a signal already!

_Quote, originally posted by *need_a_VR6* »_Feed the output of that to the cluster for it to read rpm out of the MS.

i will try this in the next few days. i really hope it works








all the parts are found at a radioshack i assume?
so i'll need
2n222a = a diode?
1k = resistor
4.7k pullup resistor
correct?
how does this work exactly?
im sure sure why the pullup resistor needs the 12v ignition wire







its mind boggling! the 1k resistor i understand. the cluster doesnt like a full 12v


_Modified by rocklizzard91 at 7:46 PM 1-28-2010_


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*FV-QR*

Yes, all that is correct. 
The 1k is for processor protection. The 4.7 sets the voltage when then output is off.


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## rocklizzard91 (Dec 18, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (need_a_VR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *need_a_VR6* »_Yes, all that is correct. 
The 1k is for processor protection. The 4.7 sets the voltage when then output is off. 

wait so should the 12+ be switched? or constant?


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*FV-QR*

Just jumper it on the board to S12 or S12c.


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## rocklizzard91 (Dec 18, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (need_a_VR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *need_a_VR6* »_Just jumper it on the board to S12 or S12c.









i was going to get a signal fromt he neg side of the coil.
how do you have it wired







all in the MS box with the signal wire coming out to the tach?
so you know, i have ms1 v3.0 if that changes any jumper locations


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*FV-QR*

What signal from coil - ?
I have that circuit built on my board to a spare connector pin. That wire runs to the tach wire on my Mk3 cluster. Works perfect.


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## rocklizzard91 (Dec 18, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (need_a_VR6)*

my bad i had everything confused.
im going to replicate the exact wiring diagram there and feed the "tach output" through a spare port and feed that to the cluster
(i think thsts what you said you did http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif )
i'll be trying in the next few days


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*FV-QR*

Yep, that's it.


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## rocklizzard91 (Dec 18, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (need_a_VR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *need_a_VR6* »_Yep, that's it.

awesome!
if radioshack has the parts i'll do it tonight http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## rocklizzard91 (Dec 18, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (need_a_VR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *need_a_VR6* »_Build this:








Using a 4.7k pullup to 12v, works on all Mk3.

i built this and tried it yesterday and it no workey








if i tap the wire against the clusters tach wire i can get it to jump some
it jumps higher if i tap faster.
you sure 4.7 is correct?
what could make it not work?


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*FV-QR*

I run that exact circuit on my car, and have done quite a few other Mk3's with it. 
You did use 4.7k to 12v and not 5v, correct? Also the 4.7 goes where it says 1-10k NOT where it says 1k. Also you need to have the wire on the left of the 1k going to the selected pin in the tuning software (JS0,1, etc).


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## rocklizzard91 (Dec 18, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (need_a_VR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *need_a_VR6* »_I run that exact circuit on my car, and have done quite a few other Mk3's with it. 
You did use 4.7k to 12v and not 5v, correct? Also the 4.7 goes where it says 1-10k NOT where it says 1k. Also you need to have the wire on the left of the 1k going to the selected pin in the tuning software (JS0,1, etc).

i believe its 12v. where did you get 12 from on your board?
what do each prong on the transistor go to?
maybe i have those hooked up wrong (the base emmittor and collector)
is a pullup resistor different from a regular resistor?


_Modified by rocklizzard91 at 9:05 AM 3-31-2010_


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## -RalleyTuned- (Nov 17, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (rocklizzard91)*

when we did the launch control on the rally car it was wired up with a switch on the clutch pedal to engage and also ran through a switch on the dash so that it can be turned on/off when you wanted to use it. I drove around with it on and didnt really notice any issues having on all the time, however it was nice to have to option to disable it if needed.
It worked pretty sweet while testing but for some reason it stopped working when we got to the rally so we didnt get to run it on gravel during an event. Hoping to get it sorted and have it in action with the new setup


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*FV-QR*

If you're looking at the transistor from the top so it looks like the letter *D*
Top pin ground
Middle pin 1k to your processor pin (JS0, etc)
Bottom pin to your output pin (IAC1A, Spr1, etc)
Bottom pin to 4.7k to 12v (S12 or S12c)


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## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (-RalleyTuned-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-RalleyTuned-* »_It worked pretty sweet while testing but for some reason it stopped working when we got to the rally so we didnt get to run it on gravel during an event. Hoping to get it sorted and have it in action with the new setup 

i checked it out the other day and it looked alright on the bench... will have to poke around some more on the car when theres a chance to do that


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## rocklizzard91 (Dec 18, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (need_a_VR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *need_a_VR6* »_If you're looking at the transistor from the top so it looks like the letter *D*
Top pin ground
Middle pin 1k to your processor pin (JS0, etc)
Bottom pin to your output pin (IAC1A, Spr1, etc)
Bottom pin to 4.7k to 12v (S12 or S12c)

Cool I'll double check my work in a few days http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Is a pullup resistor the. Same as a regular resistor? I just got a 4.7 resistor at radio shack.
-rallytuned- I got my launch control working well. But I like your switch to disable it







that's a Good idea! Mine is in A daily so my launch control is just for kicks


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*FV-QR*

Yeah it's a regular resistor, 'pullup' just refers to how it's used.


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## rocklizzard91 (Dec 18, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (need_a_VR6)*

THe directon of the resistor matter?


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## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (rocklizzard91)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rocklizzard91* »_THe directon of the resistor matter?

nope, resistors dont have a particular direction they need to placed in


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

*FV-QR*

No, they aren't polar.
I just installed a launch control switch on the Corrado today. Turns out a brake switch for a '65 Chevy screws right into the opening above the factory clutch switch on it. and there's that convenient grounding bus right next to it.


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## rocklizzard91 (Dec 18, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (PapioGXL)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PapioGXL* »_No, they aren't polar.
I just installed a launch control switch on the Corrado today. Turns out a brake switch for a '65 Chevy screws right into the opening above the factory clutch switch on it. and there's that convenient grounding bus right next to it.

a mk2 brake switch also works








at least in mine


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## -RalleyTuned- (Nov 17, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (rocklizzard91)*

we snagged a few switches off a mk3 pedal cluster and just fabed up a small bracket for it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif works like a charm, well worked for a while like a charm haha


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## rocklizzard91 (Dec 18, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (-RalleyTuned-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-RalleyTuned-* »_we snagged a few switches off a mk3 pedal cluster and just fabed up a small bracket for it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif works like a charm, well worked for a while like a charm haha

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
gonna look my my circutry tomorrow








i'll let you all know my results


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## rocklizzard91 (Dec 18, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (rocklizzard91)*

just wanna say thanks for the help http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
i got the tach to work!
i had the two outside pins of the transistor switched.








swapped them over and now it works great! i got to delete the crappy hondaboy tach i had on the dash








now i will look at the LED shift lights.
do i need to wire up the crazy setup on megamanual if i just want a light for lower and a light for upper? i thought i saw somewhere that it grounds it.
so i could do switched power to the LED and when it hits the different thresholds it will ground that led and light it up
or am i crazy?


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*FV-QR*

No you can just use two of the spare outputs and have them just rpm controlled. You can even use one light if you're slick. Just have it come on at your lower rpm then back off at your upper.


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## rocklizzard91 (Dec 18, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (need_a_VR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *need_a_VR6* »_No you can just use two of the spare outputs and have them just rpm controlled. You can even use one light if you're slick. Just have it come on at your lower rpm then back off at your upper.

SO does that ground them or power them? I know how to work the software. Just not sure how I should wire it up


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## jmaddocks (Jan 31, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (rocklizzard91)*

The 2N2222A transistor acts like a little relay. When it receives an input signal from megasquirt, it closes the "switch" between the negative side of the LED and ground. The positive side of the LED is hardwired to +12V. 
You'll need one MS input and one transistor for each LED. Make sure you use resistors to lower the current through the LEDs.


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## rocklizzard91 (Dec 18, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (jmaddocks)*

Awesom.
_Quote, originally posted by *jmaddocks* »_The 2N2222A transistor acts like a little relay. When it receives an input signal from megasquirt, it closes the "switch" between the negative side of the LED and ground. The positive side of the LED is hardwired to +12V. 
You'll need one MS input and one transistor for each LED. Make sure you use resistors to lower the current through the LEDs.

Awesome! Good explaination too
I think I'll tackle that on sat http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*FV-QR*

As stated above, it 'switches' ground. For an LED you'll want a current limiting resistor, or specifically listed 12v LEDs.


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