# N?r Technik - HPA Motorsports Turbo Build



## trumbled (Sep 20, 2006)

*Nür Technik - HPA Motorsports Turbo Build*










The Car:
(View from the Project Cam [Shop mounted GoPro])








2008 Audi TT
-3.2L VR6 Engine
-DSG Transmission
-Exterior color BLACK
-Haldex Controller
-HPA Dogbone Mount
-Dyno @ DBPerformance yielded 172awhp 184 ft/lb (DynoDynamics)
-Goal is 475bhp and 500 ft/lb

The build list:

*HPA 20th Anniversary Turbo Kit*
-Liquid cooled integrated short runner intake manifold
-After cooler package for integrated intake air to water intercooler
-Cast exhaust manifold, with external Oxygen sensors
-Hybrid GT35 Ball Bearing based turbo-w/integrated diverter and waste gate valve
-Stainless Steel Down Pipes (MK4 single 70mm, MK5 dual 55mm)
-Stainless Steel Turbo assembly Heatshield
-Custom wrapped Silicone piping with stainless steel clamps
-Head spacer plate to lower compression Head gaskets and Head Bolts 
-500ml high flow fuel injectors
-4.0B return fuel system (MK5 only)
-Braided Stainless Steel Oil Feed Line
-Oil Return lines
-Performance ECU upgrade

*Items that were upgraded from the 20th Anniversary Kit:*

-High flow 100C Cat Cores
-Inline Fuel pump (Walbro)
-Race Grade Connecting rod bearings
-Large MAF
-750ml high flow fuel injectors
-88mm Full Custom Exhaust designed and manufactured at HPA Motorsports
-ARP Connecting Rod Bolts

*Drivetrain Upgrades:*
-HPA Stage 1 DSG Clutch Pack Upgrade 6:7 Disk Performance Clutch package
-HPA Stage 4 DSG Software

*Additional upgrades:*
-HPA 8 Piston Front Calipers paired with custom slotted RS6 (365mm) Rotors (Possibly getting Cryotreated at our neighbors (Frozen Rotors))
-Powdercoated rear OE Calipers (by Nur Technik) paired with 335mm Rear Rotors
-Osir Carbon Fiber Rear Valence with openings for the Quad tip exhaust

Here are the pics of said parts:

















































































































































The build is scheduled to begin June 5th and have a tenative end date around June 18th depending on the swift work of HPA on the DSG components.

I will post GoPro images as well as some video along the way!

-David
*Nur Technik, LLC
Performance Automotive Facility
11920 12th Avenue South
Burnsville MN 55337
952-322-7495
www.nurtechnik.com
[email protected]*

**Postcard in pics is 4x6 for scaling reference


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## HPA motorsports 1 (Feb 19, 2001)

Great pics guys, can't wait to see this come to life!!!


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Another item we are going to do with our friends at www.frozenrotors.com is to do a deep-cryogenic process to the four rotors (already semi truck size for this application!).

http://www.frozenrotors.com/about/why-deep-cryogenics/

Also, the car weighed in at 3300 LBS prior to the built at our local Waste Management location.


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## - Jeremy - (Feb 23, 2006)

Do you have any informaton on the brake caliper adapters shown in this picture?










Who made them? Where can I get them, etc?

Thanks,

- Jeremy -


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

:thumbup: subscribed.
Steve


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## trumbled (Sep 20, 2006)

Marcel can chime in on this, but they were provided to us via HPA Motorsports.


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## trumbled (Sep 20, 2006)

Some updates from the Project Cam:
Pulled in the shop








Front End Off








Exhaust Out








Engine Out








YEA!!








Engine/Trans Seperation








Draining DSG Fluid Before Removing Clutch Pack








Begin Engine Tear-down








Ready for Head Spacer, New Timing Chain and Tensioner


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## xBassi (May 26, 2011)

stock 3.2 is only
Dyno @ DBPerformance yielded *172awhp 184 ft/lb* (DynoDynamics)

that makes me sad from the listed 250hp.. i know there will be some power loss but jeeze thats a lot.. lol


subscribed to this !!


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## pal (Aug 16, 2000)

That's a nice and clean shop guys :beer::beer:

Following this build along to see how it all turns out.


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## abacorrado (Apr 5, 2005)

Yea even with a dynodynamics you should only add about 30% so thats around 225 at the crank. Charles Barkley says thats turrble!


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## Tempes_TT (Oct 24, 2010)

Subed! Cant wait to see this thing roar! Might have to take a trip down there and take a peek! 

Free bump! :thumbup:

-Sebastian


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

We will post all the graphs and such for the Dyno. The "shootout" mode read 206/221 (which gives you a little less than 20% crank to wheel loss -- which i believe is normal), which is a bit closer to how other dyno machines will register. I have a B7 A4 with a high-flow cat and a stage II from APR and while very fun and greatly improved, the stock TT VR6 still blows it away on performance (as noted above -- 700 lbs more weight it just too much to make up). That application is listed around 260HP as well...


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

Fast work guys..
Steve


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## trumbled (Sep 20, 2006)

Today's progress:

-Removed front and rear braking components
-Test fitted new 8 piston Calipers and 365mm rotors
-Separated head from block
-Cleaned up the engine bay and wheel wells
-Ordered some Roloc Bristle Discs to clean up the head and block (They work wonders)

Tomorrow installing more HPA parts...on a Golf R though* ;D

-David


A shot from yesterday:


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## trumbled (Sep 20, 2006)

Got creative with some jack stands and wheel dollies*


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## abacorrado (Apr 5, 2005)

sentari said:


> We will post all the graphs and such for the Dyno. The "shootout" mode read 206/221, which is a bit closer to how other dyno machines will register. I have a B7 A4 with a high-flow cat and a stage II from APR and while very fun and greatly improved, the stock TT VR6 still blows it away on performance. That application is listed around 260HP as well...


Then something is wrong with your A4


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## R5T (Apr 7, 2010)

Any more detail pictures of the Turbo/manifold. ???


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## abacorrado (Apr 5, 2005)

sentari said:


> I'll run the A4 through the same Dyno later sometime. But the TT is lighter by a few hundred pounds and the power comes faster. So 0-60 is about 3/4 second faster.


I'm not trying to hate just saying that 250 lbs doesnt make that much of a diff. stock a4 is 15 sec. 1/4 mile, stock 3.2 tt is 14.5 sec. a chip on the a4 should make them even. i have a GIAC tt225 all else stock and my friend who has a 2007 a4 with an automatic and an APR reflashand he is almost as fast as I am and I am faster than stock 350z's. BTW I think the stock DSG programming limits the power on the 3.2 tt's. Best of luck with the build


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## abacorrado (Apr 5, 2005)

I didnt realize you had a cabriolet. 400 extra pounds, thats rediculous. I think those times for the tt are a little optimistc however. Most seem to be running closer to the mid 14's in the 1/4. Is the A4 a manual, an automatic or a cvt?


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## R5T (Apr 7, 2010)

sentari said:


> On Monday I'll take more pictures...


It looks like two parts, and not a single turbo/manifold unit.


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Here's the manifold: http://www.hpamotorsport.com/exhaustmani.htm

The actual description of the turbo is: Hybrid GT35 Ball Bearing based turbo-w/integrated diverter and waste gate valve. It's an impressive piece of engineering and innovation.




R5T said:


> It looks like two parts, and not a single turbo/manifold unit.


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Maybe HPA's Marcel can elaborate on the Turbo. 



R5T said:


> It looks like two parts, and not a single turbo/manifold unit.


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

I'd like to get a new steering wheel that has more beef. It appears the TT-RS, RS5, RS8 has what I want. But what do I need to considering when doing this upgrade? I'd like to refuse the air-bag I have and sell the old steering wheel. Or is this not possible? Plus I have DSG so I would need a European TT-RS etc.... So i'd appreciate anyone with experience or knowhow in this matter to chime in.


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

sentari said:


> I'd like to get a new steering wheel that has more beef. It appears the TT-RS, RS5, RS8 has what I want. But what do I need to considering when doing this upgrade? I'd like to refuse the air-bag I have and sell the old steering wheel. Or is this not possible? Plus I have DSG so I would need a European TT-RS etc.... So i'd appreciate anyone with experience or knowhow in this matter to chime in.


 Maybe this is what you need.. 
















This is mine and has CF flappy paddles. 
The control funcctions buttons have been deleted. 
Steve


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

I've been looking at a RS5 Perforated Leather one. it looks thicker, but otherwise the same. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-AUDI-RS...s&hash=item460485a1a6&vxp=mtr#ht_11854wt_1378


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

We ordered up the OE TT-RS (EU Version)* front honeycomb grill and some of those european OE aspherical mirrors.* A Golf-R came into the shop with them and they were a 'must have'..


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Where did you get that Wheel?


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

It's from an eBay company called Nexan, try here.. 
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=110715773613&index=9&nav=WATCHING&nid=06810402243 
It's a nice addition but not cheap. 
Steve


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

What's the deal with the airbag and airbag harness? Can the current airbag and airbag harness be transferred into a new wheel without issue. It appears there are oval and circle variants of the airbag.... Hm... 



sTT eV6 said:


> It's from an eBay company called Nexan, try here..
> http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=110715773613&index=9&nav=WATCHING&nid=06810402243
> It's a nice addition but not cheap.
> Steve


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

What's the recommendation for spark plugs in an FI application like this? I'd hate to miss a small thing like this. 

Also, I'm also thinking about the Okada Plasma Direct ignition coils. Radically expensive, but they appear to the shi3t.


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

sentari said:


> What's the deal with the airbag and airbag harness? Can the current airbag and airbag harness be transferred into a new wheel without issue. It appears there are oval and circle variants of the airbag.... Hm...


 
Not sure on interchange, I bought the bag and wheel together 
Steve


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Ok, I'll spare the pictures of the R8 coolant and oil cap.* But here's the steering wheel that's coming (it's basically a bit smaller, fatter, and perforated for his pleasure):* It's the EU version with paddles that you can't get here.*


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Ok.. So we need wheels and we are considering the BBS CH-R's 19's in silver. Not too expensive, yet pretty cool (kinda like the TT itself I guess). Tire Rack comes up with 245's for the tires. It seems to me that 255's would work. Does anyone have any experience in this matter?


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

sentari said:


> Ok.. So we need wheels and we are considering the BBS CH-R's 19's in silver. Not too expensive, yet pretty cool (kinda like the TT itself I guess). Tire Rack comes up with 245's for the tires. It seems to me that 255's would work. Does anyone have any experience in this matter?


 The important bit is the rolling radius of the front to back as the haldex wont like it if there is too much of a difference. 
What tyre manufacturer are you going for ? 
Steve


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Got a few things back from powder coating.. A little VR6, a little "Viper"...


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## R5T (Apr 7, 2010)

sentari said:


> Got a few things back from powder coating.. A little VR6, a little "Viper"...


 A little TT RS.


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

Would the 2.5 coilpacks offer any benefit over the stock V6 coilpacks... 
Steve


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## R5T (Apr 7, 2010)

sTT eV6 said:


> Would the 2.5 coilpacks offer any benefit over the stock V6 coilpacks...
> Steve


 I doubt if it even fit.


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

I have, however, thought about the Okada Plama Direct coil packs. 



R5T said:


> I doubt if it even fit.


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

sentari said:


> I have, however, thought about the Okada Plama Direct coil packs.


 Deep pockets required for them. 
Steve


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Funny, we didn't even think of that... 



R5T said:


> A little TT RS.


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## jmarch (Apr 17, 2012)

If I don't get an update on this thread soon I may take my own life just to ease the pain.


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

My clutch pack is at HPA being built. If you want more updates, tell them to hurry up.  I just received the Euro TTRS Steering Wheel (for DSG). That's going to be awesome. But I'm going going to install it until after the break in.

I changed the brakes (HPA's monster kit) to a matt black with front flat side being the aluminum (with a clear engine enamel on it). We will get pictures as soon as possible. Looks pretty sweet, and original. Also, I had the brake rotors cryptogenically treated at Frozen Rotors. Their shop is just down the street from me so I thought, what the heck!

The engine itself is basically done, so once we receive the rest of the stuff from HPA we will put it all together. 




jmarch said:


> If I don't get an update on this thread soon I may take my own life just to ease the pain.


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

sentari said:


> My clutch pack is at HPA being built. If you want more updates, tell them to hurry up.  I just received the Euro TTRS Steering Wheel (for DSG). That's going to be awesome. But I'm going going to install it until after the break in.
> 
> I changed the brakes (HPA's monster kit) to a matt black with front flat side being the aluminum (with a clear engine enamel on it). We will get pictures as soon as possible. Looks pretty sweet, and original. Also, I had the brake rotors cryptogenically treated at Frozen Rotors. Their shop is just down the street from me so I thought, what the heck!
> 
> The engine itself is basically done, so once we receive the rest of the stuff from HPA we will put it all together.


Did you send HPA the gearbox or just the clutch-pack??????????????
Steve


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Just the clutch pack. It will be back to us tomorrow morning along with a few other items.


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Ok, so the boys are too busy to post after all the Eurowerks prep and long weekend, and a full day at the shop. But the clutch pack and ecu and DSG flash tool arrived Monday. So with that they dropped the motor and transmission in, installed the exhaust, the brakes, front/back anti-sway bars and a few other items (worked up a larger MAF connection into the air box--sorry everyone, i'm using the stock box, only slightly modified). Still working on the fuel system, exhaust flapper, DSG flash, and some tidy/little stuff. Maybe we get to install the wheels tomorrow too? 

As for myself, I used my mad skills to install the TTRS front grill and some euro "blind spot"/wide-angle mirrors. And I didn't even break any glass!


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## jmarch (Apr 17, 2012)

opcorn:


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Tomorrow we are expecting a care package from HPA with a few goodies that they have manufactured for us (a few brackets etc..). Today I put the HPA logos on the doors and finished painting a few items that needed to be blacked out (the rear exhaust heat shield, a few times in front that can be seen through the TTRS Grill). Oh ya, we started the DSG flash today (stage 4). We have lots of pictures to show, but they will have to wait. 

It's obvious that after installing the wheels, tires, brakes, that this will need some coil-overs. So that will come a little later. Looking at the new V3 KW's.


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## YYC Dubber (Jun 23, 2011)

sentari said:


> Ok, so the boys are too busy to post after all the Eurowerks prep and long weekend, and a full day at the shop. But the clutch pack and ecu and DSG flash tool arrived Monday. So with that they dropped the motor and transmission in, installed the exhaust, the brakes, front/back anti-sway bars and a few other items (worked up a larger MAF connection into the air box--sorry everyone, i'm using the stock box, only slightly modified). Still working on the fuel system, exhaust flapper, DSG flash, and some tidy/little stuff. Maybe we get to install the wheels tomorrow too?
> 
> As for myself, I used my mad skills to install the TTRS front grill and some euro "blind spot"/wide-angle mirrors. And I didn't even break any glass!


 the wide angle mirrors, were they self dimming as well? 

from BKS tuning?


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## HPA motorsports 1 (Feb 19, 2001)

sentari said:


> Tomorrow we are expecting a care package from HPA with a few goodies that they have manufactured for us (a few brackets etc..). Today I put the HPA logos on the doors and finished painting a few items that needed to be blacked out (the rear exhaust heat shield, a few times in front that can be seen through the TTRS Grill). Oh ya, the DSG flash does performed today (stage 4). We have lots of pictures to show, but they will have to wait.
> 
> It's obvious that after installing the wheels, tires, brakes, that this will need some coil-overs. So that will come a little later. Looking at the new V3 KW's.


 
Brad and Dave, 

The team here wanted to jump in and express our appreciation for your efforts and patience with this monster build. At the front of the curve, you guys have managed to assemble the first Gen 2 TT with this package. It is difficult to interpret some segments of this build without chassis specific instructions, and while our MK5 R32 sheets will get you almost there, your experience and confidence is what made this feasible. 

On route are the final pieces to this package. TT specific rad, reservoir and pump mounts should be all that is needed to call her done. 

The brakes are killer, maybe next time we will tell you in advance that you will need bigger wheels…time to go hide now!!:banghead: 

Anyway, your efforts, coverage and perseverance have not gone un noticed! Keep up the great work! 
:thumbup:


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

I don't think they are self dimming. The OEs were not. the new ones are heated and European OE from BKS. They also supplied the OE TTRS front grill, TTRS arm rest conversion, and the cover for that stupid mobile connection kit that sill existed on the 08. 

The TTRS front grill required some dremel action because the top screw holes do not allign. So it appears there is some variation in the MKII. But the bottom four are the same and the rest snaps in very nicely and tight. Behind that I blacked out the alluminum front cross beam and styrofoam cover so it would not look so odd behind the open new grill. The HPA radiator thing will mount right below that and should look great as is. 

Thanks Marcel for chiming in. I can't say enough about support Marcel and his team have given us. They were preparing for Waterfest at the same time we were preparing for Eurowerks, it was a crazy week. It turns out that when you change basically everything, it's no small task. 

The icing on the cake will be installing the new wheel. It's so nice! 

We finished with the DSG Stage IV flash today and sent the tool back to Canada.


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

We are continuing to struggle with an oil leak between the tensioner bolt (and sealing washer) and the oil-feed adapter for feeding the turbo with oil. I've purchased a new OE tensioner bolt (and the OE copper crushing washer that comes with it) and have had multiple adapters sent and continue to have from a small leak to a large leak no matter what we do (trying to keep it centered) or combination of materials (or mechanics). While I know others have used this successfully, we are at a standstill and are considering feeding the turbo in some other way. It's fine against front side. No leaks there. So as a last resort we will attempt to lightly sand the flat sids of the adapter (there appear to be cutting groves on them that might be causing this) so they are perfectly smooth... Also: we have also tried both the OE copper crush washer and aluminum style ones... same result.. SQUIRT! 

--edit-- making it smooth was not the solution.. Making is parallel and smooth was...


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## hightechrdn (Dec 9, 2011)

Sounds like the machining is off is some regards. Either the finish like you mentioned or possibly something not being parallel to the sealing washers. The only other thing to check is to make sure the bolt isn't bottoming out causing there to not be enough compression of the sealing washers. 

A good machinist should be able to measure the part to check for the sealing surfaces being parallel and correct if needed. Defects in the sealing surface like machining grooves should be easy to spot. 

Does the sealing surface have any rings machined into it? From my experience, some fluid connections that use copper washers have that feature to help with sealing. Even the oil pan drain plugs on Audis and VWs are machined that way. 

Can you post pictures of the parts and also how it is installed on the engine? 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## hightechrdn (Dec 9, 2011)

sentari said:


> That's a better way to put it (sorry i'm not a Mechanic!)... It's NOT parallel... So it flattens on one side (the timing cover) and not on the other side (the bolt head and washer). That's what we will fix tomorrow. Stay tuned...


 Glad to hear that you have found the problem. Good luck!

Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk 2


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Yes, after having the machine shop resurface it flat on each side we got it sealed up in 20 minutes. 

So with that we were able to take the first few test drives around the shop area and are nailing down a few items (such as placement of AWIC reservoir, which needs a little customization to fit correctly). 

1) Exhaust note is amazing... 
2) Engine bay sound is amazing... 
3) Turbo spooling and PSHHHH is great and not stupid sounding like on larger turbo ricers... 
4) It revs extremely fast... throttle response... But so far limiting it to about 3500 rpm.. 

HPA has recommended staying below 4500 RPM's until the first oil change (~500 miles)... And because of the new clutch pack, we need to keep it out of much boost when going slow in higher gears... In other words, let the DSG do its job and don't jam on the pedal in higher gears....


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Keir/Marcel, 

What is the exact boost level set for my ECU (FT-500)? It seems inquiring minds want to know. 

And when is the bypass set to open?


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Ok, so the timing was finsihed today (tanks Tony from HPA for the help) and we are now test driving up to 4500rpm's around the area. The DSG tune is fabulous so far. No more jerky bazerki during the shifts. I have a short video and sound clips of the exhaust (only to 4000rpm's for now). That should be up tomorrow.


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## hightechrdn (Dec 9, 2011)

Glad to hear that you were able to get the oil leak resolved. Awesome build for sure!

I just have to ask... what made you go the route of building up a 6cyl TTover upgrading to a TT-RS and starting from there? I imagine that already having the VR6 engined car would be the main factor, but was wondering if you saw any other advantage in starting with the 6cyl? 

Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk 2


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## HPA motorsports 1 (Feb 19, 2001)

sentari said:


> Keir/Marcel,
> 
> What is the exact boost level set for my ECU (FT-500)? It seems inquiring minds want to know.
> 
> And when is the bypass set to open?


 Brad, 

We have this up on our Web, but you need to progress to the final boost through the break in on the bearings and turbo and then validate the strength of the fuel you plan to run by logging block 020. 

Our team can walk you through this. The car should be set at 14.7-16psi from our production, run 3/4 throttle max for 200 miles, then up to 600 miles 6000rpm max to seat the new big clutch. 

Then we can start to turn up the wick


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Good question sir. Well, I was looking to have a 911 Turbo, but I did not like the all wheel drive for our northern winters. Plus, it's not a very unique platform and over priced So I stumbled on the Audi TT and wanted a TT-S, but it was like over 50k and there were not very many used ones. So I saw what I thought was new TT come in at a dealer that I was buying a A4 Cab 2.0T at (B7). But it had a strange badge on it. A 3.2 Quattro. Well, I never heard of it so I quickly did I some research and found it was just about as powerful as the TTS, but was only 27k with 40k on it with no signs of wear. So, I picked up both cars and then found that the TT was far nicer on the inside than any Porsche I looked at. plus, still this 08 is pretty much the same looking as the brand new TTRS. Well, afte a bit of time and research I found HPA was really the only choice for me as far performance upgrades for this platform. Noboddy does the DSG better and frankly I doubt anyone does programming, exhaust, or turbos better either. I want a very OE look and daily driving is the goal too. And so far so good. Perfect, no. But the rest gets resolved by the shop that puts it all together for you. There are a lot of things to consider. Engine, transmission, exhaust, programming, brakes,msuspension, look, etc.... So I allowed HPA to deliver 90 percent of that. 

At the end of the day I wanted a elegent and unique setup. And since there are only a few TTs using this setup, and zero just like mine, I feel like I have the best sports car money can 'buy'. But frankly a fully loaded TTRS would cost more,and this beast would crush it in every catigory. Also, the TTRS does not have a DSG here, and for me that was a requirement. I had Chevy small block torque monsters in the past with manuals and I've moved on. HPAs tune so far is the freaking cats meow. OMG does Audi suck at programming the DSG. 

But I stongly suggest looking forward at your end goal before. Upgrading in phsases sounds good, but it will cost you way more,in the long run. Thats why I went with all my 'stages' in one shot. Sure, its harder, longer, and takes pacience.. But for me, I really wanted to buy something like this off the shelf, but it does not exist and would have been twice as much. For 60 grand have what would be considered a supercar. Yes, a lot money. But 60k does not go far on a supercar lot. Also, I did not go twin turbo because I feel the current kit is more elegant. 







hightechrdn said:


> Glad to hear that you were able to get the oil leak resolved. Awesome build for sure!
> 
> I just have to ask... what made you go the route of building up a 6cyl TTover upgrading to a TT-RS and starting from there? I imagine that already having the VR6 engined car would be the main factor, but was wondering if you saw any other advantage in starting with the 6cyl?
> 
> Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk 2


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Thank you Marcel. I'm glad you were able to make time to chime in. We will follow your instructions to the tee. I use 93 octane exclusivly. That is easy to get here. But we will work it out as you suggested. The sneak peek video on the exhaust sound willl come soon. I just finnished editing it and it's pretty awesome.


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

The Nur Technik built HPA 3.2T FT-500 Sound. Revs were limited to 4200 RPM's here during our testing phase. The sound was recorded by individual microphones (a Sure Beta 57 and a Audix OM-6). One on each tail pipe. Later on we will microphone one tailpipe and one on the engine.


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

We now have 525 miles on it the car and things are progressing well. After a bit we will change the fluids and test through the entire rpm band.


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## HPA motorsports 1 (Feb 19, 2001)

sentari said:


> The Nur Technik built HPA 3.2T FT-500 Sound. Revs were limited to 4200 RPM's here during our testing phase. The sound was recorded by individual microphones (a Sure Beta 57 and a Audix OM-6). One on each tail pipe. Later on we will microphone one tailpipe and one on the engine.


Sounds great!


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Ya, I pulled out my recording gear and mic'ed the tail pipes and synced up the video. We will get more now that we have the miles and can put it at a higher RPM. But we have some work to do before we 'play' any more... Timing has been a bit of a 'b90tch' to get right. One bank is still complaining. We also have first gear woes... Its hesitates a bit (like it's thinking for a bit before it puts power down)... Then we have to figure out what boost it's at and see where we can go... But tomorrow is the oil change and some other things we have to complete... Such as putting in a relay for the AWIC pump..

I think when I do this (recording next time i'll mic the engine bay and one of the tail pipes at the same time. Might as well be the one with the flapper too!

Maybe in the fall I can take a trip out the HPA... Sounds fun...


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Well, the timing is correct now. A few tries and now it appears fine.. No codes or odd behavior related to timing. The solution was to follow some simple advice from the installer at Mike Linden VW... 

"As far as the timing goes, it is alittle tricky. You have to time it with the crank a rotation off. Basically you have to spin the crack 180 off from the cams so that you have piston one at top dead center, but on the wrong rotation so this way you get the slack side of the chain in the right place and you still have to have 16 rollers between the marks." 

Thanks! 

Now we appear to have an air intake limitation (or something related to air/fuel mix). With the stock air box, upgraded MAF, and K&N filter the car basically kills power near (6000RPM+ ) redline at full-throttle. So now that we have 1000 miles on the the kit (and clutches) we tried a few launches and at about 55-60 MPH it does ht same thing (kills power)... With the airbox disconnected this problem gets better, but does not completely go away... 

We ordered the boost gauge. So when we getting these kinks out we will see what boost level we are at and turn up the wick as guided by HPA... 

We also installed the Euro TT-RS steering wheel (has the flappy paddles). Nice, thick, and awesome.. It takes about 15 minutes to swap out. I used the original airbag. That was all very easy.. Just make -SURE- to disconnect the batter prior to doing this. THEN make sure to do a throttle-body alignment after that...


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

Wonder if your throwing a 17743 code.. 
Has the increased MAF size been rescaled in the ECU so the gearbox can prepare for the increased power, if it's not you may get the above code, bad clutch slip or engine shut down [which requires the ignition to be reset and engine restarted] 
steve


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

That's a good question for HPA... As for the code, i'm not sure... I have a lot of logs from today I need to look at...


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

Refitting the OEM MAF and going for a run will prove it one way or another. 
Steve


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Minnesota Cars and Coffee exit video... (MN C&C 9-1-12). This is an event in the Twin Cities where the first Saturday of each month several hundred enthusiasts get together at the AutoMotorPlex and park and show their wares.. The fun part is when everyone is leaving... Notable this week was the HPA TT FT-500 and a few slightly more expensive rides (Lexus LFA and a few Lamborghini Aventadors). And yep, the HPA TT has a lot more TQ than the Lexus, and is the same as the Lambo.. 

The video link should be lined up here to show the TT exiting (at 9:05). 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKbdbZmYzao&feature=player_detailpage#t=542s]


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## jmh2002 (Jun 28, 2007)

sentari said:


> ...Notable this week was the HPA TT FT-500...


 Cool, but it needs to sound like this when he pulls away... :laugh:


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

GoTTzilla is a HPA 650 twin turbo custom exhaust, so not really the same platform. 
Steve


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## jmh2002 (Jun 28, 2007)

Im not even going to bother to seriously reply to that... _except to say that I would have hoped you saw (and understood) the :laugh: face at the end of my post..._


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

Just seemed to me that you were indicating that he needs to modify his exhaust to sound like GoTTzilla. 
Steve


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

What you don't see in that video is the 3-4 police officers directing the traffic out. 

No doubt GoTTzilla is epic. No cats, lots of flappers... So nearly a strait pipe.. But too loud for my purposes, that's for sure... See below.. 

My favorite HPA Exhaust is on Skekla's. The hand built muffler should be in the Smithsonian. 

My exhaust has dual 100 count cats and the single flapper (which is closed at the moment and throughout these videos). 

Here's the exhaust before we installed it. HPA created all of it. My only input was to have it be quad tip... 










Low quality video. But this launch of the SEMA Winning HPA Audi TT is freaking epic. And this car is basically a daily driver. 





 
And the Gottzilla Exhaust:


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

The back box is restrictive but will be ok. 

Straight through function better. 
Steve


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

So we finally installed the rear Neuspeed anti-sway bar & links today (front one was already installed). I also got the thing aligned up. Word to the wise: get this done after doing all this kind of work or risk losing a set of nice tires in very short order... 

We were also working with HPA gathering some information on logging and such to check air/fuel/spark etc...


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

I'd love to see the internal design of that thing to see how air is moved around. But it's pretty apparent so far that getting air into the system is the bigger issue at this point than getting it out.. One of the kits that was installed has a electronic bypass/cutout before that mid-muffler. A tad loud when open.. Maybe they wanted to scare Semi truck drivers in tunnels! 



sTT eV6 said:


> The back box is restrictive but will be ok.
> 
> Straight through function better.
> Steve


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## jmh2002 (Jun 28, 2007)

sTT eV6 said:


> Just seemed to me that you were indicating that he needs to modify his exhaust to sound like GoTTzilla.
> Steve


 Ummm, no... :facepalm: 



sentari said:


> No doubt GoTTzilla is epic. No cats, lots of flappers... So nearly a strait pipe.. *But too loud for my purposes, that's for sure...*


 I totally agree. I have an HGP setup with highflow cats, resonator, custom muffler, and bypass. 

So, to clarify, no offence was meant, no changes were (seriously) being suggested, it was just to add some more  and :laugh: to you thread :beer: 

Your car is progressing very nicely :thumbup:


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

This is the Milltek i had fitted for a while.. 








as you can see, the heat/energy is hitting the back box making it tarnish, this is due to the gases bouncing around the back box before coming out. 

Here is a pic of my exhaust setup now.. 








Steve


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Ok, so the "AIRBOX" limitation issue below has now been resolved. It was a simple matter of using the wrong turbo input hose! Tested with new hose and the car is now bouncing off redline without any air limitations etc... Launches are working fine now too... Crude testing shows 0-60 at about 4.1 seconds... But there are some bumps in the throttle yet that seem to be slowing initial take offs and petal response... Throttle Body is clean as a whistle and aligned... Will be doing some testing tomorrow..

Now we need to hook up the exhaust flapper properly. That's a matter of getting the signal from the ECU to the vacuum solenoid, so it can turn it off/on appropriately. 




sentari said:


> Well, the timing is correct now. A few tries and now it appears fine.. No codes or odd behavior related to timing. The solution was to follow some simple advice from the installer at Mike Linden VW...
> 
> "As far as the timing goes, it is alittle tricky. You have to time it with the crank a rotation off. Basically you have to spin the crack 180 off from the cams so that you have piston one at top dead center, but on the wrong rotation so this way you get the slack side of the chain in the right place and you still have to have 16 rollers between the marks."
> 
> ...


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

So one of the things that "breaks" with a HPA/HGP tune is "Advanced Measuring Blocks" in VCDS/VAG-COM, a very nice troubleshooting tool (as I'm finding out). The reason this happens is because the the engine part number is renamed to [HGP Turbonac] by the tune. When VCDS opens a module ("Engine" in this case) it looks for matching "label" files, which after the tune does not exist. So the following procedure will fix this:

[BTW: I figured this out by using Windows/Sysinternals "Filemon" to review the files it was trying to load during the module selection. A bit of debugging/forensics]. Normally the VAG part number is identified and the corresponding VCDS label file is loaded. But if your tuner changes this value [part number] it gets all confused.] 

Moral of the story is that tuners should not change this value. IMO anyway...

1. Copy C:\Ross-Tech\VCDS\Labels\022-906-032-BDB.LBL to the user label folder [C:\Ross-Tech\VCDS\Labels\User]
2. Rename the file to C:\Ross-Tech\VCDS\Labels\User\HGP-Tur-ona.lbl
3. Restart VCDS

The [022-906-032-BDB.LBL] file is for the A3 with the VR6. It's the closest match for my car. Other cars will be similar.


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Simple, but today I did the R8 Oil cap "allignment" as described in the thread below. The issue is that the R8 cap does not allign with the VR6. This simple mod makes it align perfectly...

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-(How-to-re-align-the-top-portion-of-the-cap)

Not my ride, but here's an example:


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## FatAce (Jan 30, 2012)

awesome build man, I might just have to ditch the MK1 for an MK2! :beer:


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## R5T (Apr 7, 2010)

sentari said:


> Ok, I'll spare the pictures of the R8 coolant and oil cap.* But here's the steering wheel that's coming (it's basically a bit smaller, fatter, and perforated for his pleasure):* It's the EU version with paddles that you can't get here.*


This steering wheel need the facelift R8 flappy paddles.


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Sorry for no posts... I need to figure out how to post pictures etc... I know how but am a little lazy... But anyway.. Since I have the HPA version of the P-cars boost gauge that installs nicely into the air vent I went ahead and did the 0-60 test... 3.75 on my first attempt (sport mode) with two in the car, on the street, and full fluids/gas tank... After we install the MSS kit i'll do another with a low tank of gas... In retrospect, the stated 0-60 on the R8 V10 Plus is 3.7... Kind of funny...


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## jmh2002 (Jun 28, 2007)

sentari said:


> ...Since I have the HPA version of the P-cars boost gauge that installs nicely into the air vent...


 How does the 'HPA version' differ from the normal P-cars one? I couldnt find anything on the HPA website.


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

I'm not sure it does... It's just inscribed HPA on it instead... Mine was the first one... Keir can maybe answer better...


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## miwim (May 13, 2008)

The regular one doesn't work well (at all) with our car and HPA program. I was their guinea pig for a few months trying to get it to work


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## MSS Automotive (Mar 20, 2013)

sentari said:


> Sorry for no posts... I need to figure out how to post pictures etc... I know how but am a little lazy... But anyway.. Since I have the HPA version of the P-cars boost gauge that installs nicely into the air vent I went ahead and did the 0-60 test... 3.75 on my first attempt (sport mode) with two in the car, on the street, and full fluids/gas tank... After we install the MSS kit i'll do another with a low tank of gas... In retrospect, the stated 0-60 on the R8 V10 Plus is 3.7... Kind of funny...


 Yep, we need some updates. Too many mods to keep just to yourself...


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## Ra22moan (Aug 14, 2013)

I can go lower in the rear and sit inside my barrels on 17s.


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Ok. I need to get some new sway bar links up front. They are looking kind of messed... I see there are lots of options, but nothing from Neuspeed (who I purchased Front Sway Bar/Rear Sway Bar/Rear Sway Bar Links from).. So I need a recommendation. And do I need new install bolts or anything? 

I see there are these from Whiteline. But I'm not sure why I would need them to be adjustable.
http://www.urotuning.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=KLC167

Then there's Meyle
http://www.urotuning.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1K0411315JMY

And these Lemforder's
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MKII-Quattro-3.2L/Suspension/Sway_Bar/ES11425/

And then there's OE....

Anyway, I need something that is comparable to my car...


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Another thing... I did a minor oops and one BBS protector needed to be replaced.... No damage to the wheel...(CH-R's 19's). The way to deal with this is to fill out that contact form at BBS. Within an hour someone e-mailed me and said to call them and they could help me order them.. That took about 2 minutes, so I ordered 2 (saves shipping). Once you slowly peal the original one off (I hear heating might help, but it was 100 degrees here and that was not an issue), clean the residue as best you can... A little goof off helped... The new ones came in 3 days and come with a pre-applied sticky tape for installation... Went on easy, even without taking the wheel off ... and back to new...

About 52 bux each + about bux shipping I think...


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

*Nür Technik - HPA Motorsports Turbo Build*

Bump for any advise on the front sway bar links I posted about....


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

*Nür Technik - HPA Motorsports Turbo Build*

What are the chances I can buff out a scratch on my carbon fiber rear diffuser? OSIR. 


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## MSS Automotive (Mar 20, 2013)

sentari said:


> Bump for any advise on the front sway bar links I posted about....
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free


 For the fronts I would keep it OEM. 

The wheel rates are high relative to the rears and you do not want to increase that with an uprated drop-links which may increase that further - that would introduce understeer.

So, my advice is OEM bar and drop-links upfront simply because the wheel rates do not support a need for a change.

William


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

*Nür Technik - HPA Motorsports Turbo Build*

Thanks. I already have the upgraded front and rear anti sways. And am very happy with the Gokart feel... So oem links will do... I wonder if putting the rear sway at to the harder setting would be helpful. It's not to harsh so far. Everyone who drives it loves it. 


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## MSS Automotive (Mar 20, 2013)

sentari said:


> Thanks. I already have the upgraded front and rear anti sways. And am very happy with the Gokart feel... So oem links will do... I wonder if putting the rear sway at to the harder setting would be helpful. It's not to harsh so far. Everyone who drives it loves it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free


I will not go stiffer on the rears...you will get oversteer more frequently though with 4-WD could be fun in the dry though am not so sure in the wet. 

Nowt wrong with experimenting though.


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Maybe it's just me, but it was very hard to find quality high temp harness tape here in the US without paying the dealer 2-3 times as much as it should cost. And NO, Friction tape at your big box shop is not the same thing... 

You can find it here for 15 bux... The dude even tossed in some free fuzzy harness tape for non engine areas... Coroplast, again from Germany... Good stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/Tesa-Black-Hi...6IZ6Y/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A6G1FJVH7Q4X3


http://www.tesatape.com/industry/automotive/electrical_systems/wire_harnessing/tesa_51026,i.html


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Picked up some of these babies for the paddles... My OE is aluminum, so the black part is aluminum. And I finally had time to get it buffed out... Wow what an improvement... Maybe someday i'll actually post pictures...


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

sentari said:


> Picked up some of these babies for the paddles... My OE is aluminum, so the black part is aluminum. And I finally had time to get it buffed out... Wow what an improvement... Maybe someday i'll actually post pictures...


Nice paddles.
Quality costs.
My wheel and wing mirror pods and stalks are from these guys..
Steve


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

*Nür Technik - HPA Motorsports Turbo Build*

No doubt. But ain't going to cheap out at this point. I'd of rather had the same thing in solid aluminum. But these are the best on the market that I could find and I'm sure I'll be happy with them. 


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

*Nür Technik - HPA Motorsports Turbo Build*

Ha. I used so much of that harness tape I need to buy two more rolls. Once you get to wrapped you just can't stop. It's so nice. 


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## arm1tage (Apr 14, 2010)

I can't believe I missed this epic thread. sentari you need to update this with pics & vids!!


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Ya... I know... I will at some point. Maybe late next week... I have my winter setup on now (same BBS's, but in Silver and using Blizziks), am doing the window tint and bra next week... Last week I had it detailed/buffed on the outside by a real pro (she did a McLaren today)... If it's still nice out i'll take pics and figure it out.... Today we adjusted the MSS Sports kit rear so a "final" alignment will be done soon now too... But man is it epic to blister through the 6speed DSG like your some F1 racer...


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## arm1tage (Apr 14, 2010)

sentari said:


> Ya... I know... I will at some point. Maybe late next week... I have my winter setup on now (same BBS's, but in Silver and using Blizziks), am doing the window tint and bra next week... Last week I had it detailed/buffed on the outside by a real pro (she did a McLaren today)... If it's still nice out i'll take pics and figure it out.... Today we adjusted the MSS Sports kit rear so a "final" alignment will be done soon now too... But man is it epic to blister through the 6speed DSG like your some F1 racer...


Waiting in anticipation!

BTW what did you do with your previous R8 flappy paddles? Care to sell them?


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

I have a TT-RS Euro steering wheel with those paddles... The new one connect to the old ones.. 

I finally got some tint (basic legal stuff) and clear bra on whole front... Now just need some nice weather to take some pictures.. But I have my winter set up on so it's cool, but not quite as cool as my summer setup... And my word, don't play around with winter wheels... They are NOT for WOT... 



arm1tage said:


> Waiting in anticipation!
> 
> BTW what did you do with your previous R8 flappy paddles? Care to sell them?


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## arm1tage (Apr 14, 2010)

Clear bra is the best. What brand did you get? I had 3M on my car for 4 years but it stained with water spots and yellowed a lot. I just had a 2-step paint correction done at Signature Detailing. They also applied Opti-Coat 2.0 all over the car and then put Xpel Ultimate on the front end which is supposed to be stain-free and non-yellowing. We shall see...


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

I went 3M all the way around. I live in a cold climate and just don't need anything to special.. The company who did it is very popular around here and will slap a fresh one on if it goes to junk... Maybe they are in good with 3M since the HQ is just a few miles away!


Those DSG paddles below are very high quality.. Solid as a rock and fit very well (and they should considering the cost)... However, they leave less room between the blinker and washer arms which may take some getting used to... But the flexibility to shift from many positions on the wheel will be nice...


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## arm1tage (Apr 14, 2010)

sentari said:


> I went 3M all the way around. I live in a cold climate and just don't need anything to special.. The company who did it is very popular around here and will slap a fresh one on if it goes to junk... Maybe they are in good with 3M since the HQ is just a few miles away!
> 
> 
> Those DSG paddles below are very high quality.. Solid as a rock and fit very well (and they should considering the cost)... However, they leave less room between the blinker and washer arms which may take some getting used to... But the flexibility to shift from many positions on the wheel will be nice...


make sure to keep the 3M away from sprinklers! i don't know if they have reformulated it but the hard water down here etched my clear bra and it looked like ****!!

i have the cheapo stick on paddle extensions from ebay and while they do the job they don't add much in the way of looks. i saw some aluminum ones for $150 but the install looks pretty fiddly.


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

The Paddle shifters were a little too much "Batmobile" for me so I'm moving on without them... Quality is amazing, but just not going to be my thing... If interested in them, ping me...


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Ok, so I’ve put some pictures together. The dark grey wheels have my summer setup on, while the silver’s are winter. I’ve tried to put a lot of angles of the engine bay so you can see how things were routed and wrapped. I used steel ties for the O2 sensors about the turbo heat shield and to connect that to the firewall. Anything else will melt. I otherwise used the 300 degree cloth tape for many things, silicone (on the brake booster line), and 1200 degree heat shield wrap on a lot of items that you can see (fuel, coolant etc…). The rear MSS Springs are now at their lowest setting. I used caliper paint to dress up the "HPA 20" on the Intake Manifold. The brakes are now all black. The wrap on the car is dark gray 3M (racing stripe, gas cap, mirrors, wing) and matches the summer wheels nicely...


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## Rford71 (Sep 1, 2011)

sentari said:


> Ok, so here are a bunch of pictures...


Nice pictures!


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

I'm working on a bunch sir...


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## Rford71 (Sep 1, 2011)

sentari said:


> I'm working on a bunch sir...


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)




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## Rford71 (Sep 1, 2011)

I see the cloth tape and stainless steal zip ties that you were telling me about:thumbup:


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## arm1tage (Apr 14, 2010)

What an amazing build. The quality is really OEM+ and I love the wrap. Subtle and clean... I'm sure you surprise a lot of supercars with the performance from this "hairdresser's car".


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

*Nür Technik - HPA Motorsports Turbo Build*

I'm not sure why, but m3's are the usual victim. They just seem to drop the hammer at every opportunity. 


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## Rford71 (Sep 1, 2011)

sentari said:


> I'm not sure why, but m3's are the usual victim. They just seem to drop the hammer at every opportunity.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yep, those M3 guys are so easy, after you pull away from them they magically turn off on the next street!:laugh:


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## Akula Class (Feb 17, 2005)

Any eta on your follow up dyno?


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## arm1tage (Apr 14, 2010)

sentari said:


> I'm not sure why, but m3's are the usual victim. They just seem to drop the hammer at every opportunity.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yea same here. Also 135i and 335i owners love to race me... and then they ignore my thumbs up when they get smoked.


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

460/460 on Canadian pump gas at 18 PSI on HPA's dyno... So basically as advertised... In the spring i'll bump it up... My local gas is much stronger according to the logs and HPA's analysis...




Akula Class said:


> Any eta on your follow up dyno?


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

sentari said:


> 460/460 on Canadian pump gas at 18 PSI on HPA's dyno... So basically as advertised... In the spring i'll bump it up... My local gas is much stronger according to the logs and HPA's analysis...


Think im going to be going with some HPA files soon.. 
Steve


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## Rford71 (Sep 1, 2011)

sentari said:


> 460/460 on Canadian pump gas at 18 PSI on HPA's dyno... So basically as advertised... In the spring i'll bump it up... My local gas is much stronger according to the logs and HPA's analysis...


Sectarian, is this at the crank or wheels and can you post up your Dyno chart so we can see how the torque and the power comes on?


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

All HPA dynos are all crank (corrected engine).... It cuts off at 6K, so it's maybe a bit higher... At 21 PSI RACE or PUMP it would be well above 500 as you can tell by the progress between 16 and 18 PSI..... The chart shows before/after between 16/18 PSI..... and in all honesty, it's pointless to compare dyne results unless it was the same one... At least the max numbers.. My car dyno'ed at 172 HP wheel before this project... APR puts the same car about 50 higher than that... so do other dynos... So HPA at 18 PSI is about the same as APR TT-RS State II w/100 Octane...But my dyno is pretty similar to others that HPA has done... What i'd be really interested in is how the EFR turbos are performing... There are no charts as far as I know for this new turbo... Also, while it does not show it here, the rev limiter is 7700 on my car....



Rford71 said:


> Sectarian, is this at the crank or wheels and can you post up your Dyno chart so we can see how the torque and the power comes on?


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## Rford71 (Sep 1, 2011)

Real nice chart Sentari, make be want to get the larger fuel injectors like you have. I would have stayed with HPA's tune but it was not working well with my schrick cams. I no HPA's dyno show engine power number but they do convert them to wheel horsepower as well. Joe's red R has the EFR turbo and it appears to spool up faster.

Wow 7700 rev limiter, I'm at 7200 and hit the limiter pretty fast with 268/264 cam. Did you do any Head work, lifter, and valve spring retainers upgrades?

Robert


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Ya... from time to time they show wheel... I wish they/everyone would just always do wheel... Who gives a rip about engine HP.... But back to back it's still nice to see how boost/fuel compares...

I noticed how high the revs go and spoke with HPA about it... With their FT-500 they up it to 7700... I think this is a second variant from the first ones... mine has had a few tunes... I don't even think there's a limit when in manual mode (i'm DSG)... But no, no additional work... if HPA says its good to go, then it's good.... But launches don't quite hit that mark, maybe 7500... I'm sure it all has to do with gearing/0-60 etc.... 

Does Joe have a build thread?



Rford71 said:


> Real nice chart Sentari, make be want to get the larger fuel injectors like you have. I would have stayed with HPA's tune but it was not working well with my schrick cams. I no HPA's dyno show engine power number but they do convert them to wheel horsepower as well. Joe's red R has the EFR turbo and it appears to spool up faster.
> 
> Wow 7700 rev limiter, I'm at 7200 and hit the limiter pretty fast with 268/264 cam. Did you do any Head work, lifter, and valve spring retainers upgrades?
> 
> Robert


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## Rford71 (Sep 1, 2011)

*Nür Technik - HPA Motorsports Turbo Build*

Joe is Hybird20v, this is his build 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5967491-My-R-Build-Thread


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

Why is your boost coming in harder on the 18psi setup as it's really affecting your torque curve..
Steve


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## jmh2002 (Jun 28, 2007)

sTT eV6 said:


> Why is your boost coming in harder on the 18psi setup as it's really affecting your torque curve..
> Steve


What do you mean by "really affecting your torque curve" ? Thats an awesome torque curve for a street car (mine is similar) - nice and meaty right in the middle of the powerband - most of the HGP Turbos exhibit this same quality (not sure what was going on at 16psi, because it should normally give roughly the same shape, just less of it).

More area under the curve = a faster car, especially on the street :thumbup:


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

jmh2002 said:


> What do you mean by "really affecting your torque curve" ? Thats an awesome torque curve for a street car (mine is similar) - nice and meaty right in the middle of the powerband - most of the HGP Turbos exhibit this same quality (not sure what was going on at 16psi, because it should normally give roughly the same shape, just less of it).
> 
> More area under the curve = a faster car, especially on the street :thumbup:


Yeah..the 16psi seems to be quite flat compared to the 18psi boost curves.
My setup has similar results to the 18psi but a earlier.
Steve


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## jmh2002 (Jun 28, 2007)

Yeah, the 16psi curve definitely is odd (but I thought you were referring to the 18psi curve).

Its also odd why the dyno stops at 6000rpm, but maybe thats when max power was being made (it looks like the power curve is flattening out a lot by then - but again that is also quite normal with these HGP turbos).

However if that is the case I'm not sure why there is a 7700rpm rev limit though (and no rev limit in 'manual mode'? That doesn't seem right...).

Maybe sentari will jump in with an update.


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

I should have clarified... The tune itself was different as well as some install issues... The 16 PSI was when I brought it in to them, while the 18 was afterwards... So there may have been far more done than just the PSI changing.... (I know for sure the in-line pump was replaced as well as the fact it had some cooling issues that were resolved...)


My understanding of the 6K cut-off was something to do with the Audi getting a bit nuts on the dyno itself... In real life, no such issues...

Here's some analysis of my log files at 18 PSI (while looking at 91 and 93 octane here in my area...)

"Knock in block 020 needs to be at a max of 9 degrees in the taller gears, you are very safe!

Fuel correction needs to be +/-10% - you are PERECT.

Both fuel grades are managing, the water temps are staying in the sub 98C pocket, the car should feel strong as it looks like the gas is handling the boost and the boost could even be massaged up on these grades of petrol"

Here is the dialog on the rev limiter

" (we) Have looked into the big boy file and it has a redline set for 7700, not 7200 like our standard program
The heavy hitter package was pushed up to accommodate better 0-60 times but would need to be managed by the driver in M mode.
M mode is 100% like a manual car, it will do as you ask."

I may have this changed later... I'm more conservative, so I really don't need this 'little' extra....


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Thanks for the link... Great stuff. His dyno's cut just above 6K too... TQ comes on strong and early, but it's hard to really compare because his is a completely different tune at the time of those dynos (UM)... The original dyno of his was far different and power came on much farther to the right.... But likely affected by a number of install/getting-to-know-you issues...







Rford71 said:


> Joe is Hybird20v, this is his build
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5967491-My-R-Build-Thread


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## jmh2002 (Jun 28, 2007)

sentari said:


> I should have clarified... The tune itself was different as well as some install issues... (I know for sure the in-line pump was replaced as well as the fact it had some cooling issues that were resolved...)


That makes sense - fueling and cooling issues would be a major explanation for the odd 16psi curve.



sentari said:


> Thanks for the link... Great stuff. His dyno's cut just above 6K too...


If you want to see another nice dyno you can click on my thread too. Superflow dyno done in Germany by HGP themselves. Dyno runs to the rev limiter at 7200rpm. Max torque at 5400rpm (1.27bar/18.4psi). Max power made at 7100rpm (1.20bar/17.4psi). However yes, the power gain above 6000rpm is far reduced (even with my big 88mm exhaust with bypass). Thats the trade off, since as you are aware the HGP turbos are designed for street use with fast spool and fat mid range torque.

:thumbup::beer:


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## pal (Aug 16, 2000)

sentari - It would be great to see what your car runs in the 1/4 mile. That is a great indicator of real world power being put down.


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## Black BeauTTy (Jun 11, 2011)

Very impressive but, you installed the MSS rear springs backwards. The main (orange spring) goes on bottom, the progressive (black spring) goes on top. Maybe it doesn't matter but this is opposite the install guide…

http://www.msskits.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/MSS-Spring-kit-Installation-for-Audi-TT-MK2-v1.0.pdf


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

The correct method is to install them the same way on each side. We were in the beta and production with my shop... and frankly they are awesome....



Black BeauTTy said:


> Very impressive but, you installed the MSS rear springs backwards. The main (orange spring) goes on bottom, the progressive (black spring) goes on top. Maybe it doesn't matter but this is opposite the install guide…
> 
> http://www.msskits.com/wp-content/u...ing-kit-Installation-for-Audi-TT-MK2-v1.0.pdf


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## Black BeauTTy (Jun 11, 2011)

sentari said:


> The correct method is to install them the same way on each side. We were in the beta and production with my shop... and frankly they are awesome....


Ok, so I guess it doesn't matter as long as they are the same side to side. I agree though, MSS Sport Springs are awesome.


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

So my car runs great in the winter (northern states.. as cold as 10F so far) Feels great anyway... But I keep getting a code:

000104 - MAP/MAF <-> Throttle Position Correlation 
P0068 - 002 - - MIL ON

I did an tb alignment, but it came back... Maybe it's a boost leak.. But I keep suspecting something to do with the cold/gas...

So what do you all experience in the cold? Do you do anything about it? Additives or anything? I use BP 93 nearly all the time and the last time I had it logged/reviewed it was running very strong and my boost was conservative (at 18) according to HPA and could be moved up... But that's for spring time...


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

Cleaning the throttle body may help.
Steve


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

On a different note... (i understand) The boost is controlled from the back of the compressor housing using a 4mm allen wrench (recall I have the GT35 Hybrid Turbo). But is this a MBC or just running waste gate pressure (just setting waste gate preload)? The latter? I guess i'd like to know more about how this works because I know my gas is strong (HPA reviewed) and will be adjusting soon enough...

Anyone know?


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Can anyone recommend a ODBII splitter? One where I can retain the stock location but plug in the P3cars gauge?


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

With a little skill you could attach the wiring into the back of the existing plug for a stealth look.
steve


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## boarderjcj (Sep 14, 2011)

R5T said:


>


Looks like that image is sourced from Europrice... but I cannot find these paddles on their site. Did you buy these R8 paddles from Europrice? How much $?


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

I don't have those... I have the Carbon Fiber add-ons that look like this... Buy they were too Bat Mobile for me so I never installed them and have em' for sale... Note that these don't come with the shivers.. .Just the carbon... They work extremely well and look OE, but it's just 'too much' for my tastes.. I should have taken a picture of them on mine because I have TT-RS paddles which are aluminum.


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

I have the "less is more" CF paddles from Nexan..


Steve


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Nice... But it also does with your CF steering wheel... 

I think I might have asked about your 'vibration' issue that someone mentioned in your thread Steve. Was that on braking or what? I have some vibration on braking and am hoping is just some brake thing... and not tranny or something.. Ya.. I've been too lazy to bring it in...


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

My mota has been fine, no issues apart from DSG upgrades going on via HPA.
Steve


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

I thought you were in Europe? Why not HGP?


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

sentari said:


> I thought you were in Europe? Why not HGP?


I and my indie have a relationship with HPA.
The world is so small now, it doesn't matter where your based.
Steve


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

All my shaking was due to the rotors.... We had them turned and everything is perfect now...


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

I have a new longer gears DSG transmission coming from HPA. It's stronger (hardened) as well, used by the Twin Turbo builds.

And I got a oil cooler setup being built by HPA as well... 

These will take a while to get here... 

I'll be using my current clutch pack (upgraded already) and Mechigraonic...


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

sentari said:


> I have a new longer gears DSG transmission coming from HPA. It's stronger (hardened) as well, used by the Twin Turbo builds.
> 
> And I got a oil cooler setup being built by HPA as well...
> 
> ...


Ha ha, your not the only one waiting for a delivery from HPA..
Hopefully we're not fighting over the same box.
Think my box is being shipped from Germany this week and on its way to HPA HQ for some tweaks, then shipped to little old UK. I'm having a fresh 8/7 Kevlar clutch pack installed and controlled with a mk2 mechatronic, which is newer and faster, but HPA are having to perform some magic to convert some of the CAN signals to discreet.
Pulling the trigger on major changes is quite exciting..
Oh..forgot to add..I'm having a Stage 3 head built with Ferrera oversize valves and Berrylium valve inserts.
my old head was for NASP setup.
Steve


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Ha... It's the same thing... But I already have some of the components... .


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

The oil cooler kit. It will go in shortly...


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

My paddle shifters from Nexon are for sale... See below.. 1/2 price... PM me...


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

New transmission installed. So far so good...


So it's summer here and 80+ F.... So what's a normal 'hot' temperature for coolant/oil/trans fluids?


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

My liquid gauge tells me coolant is 84-92c, oil is 88-92 and trans is not measured on my liquid.
On boost and getting on it my coolant is 90-98 and oil is 96-104c
Steve


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## Rford71 (Sep 1, 2011)

*Nür Technik - HPA Motorsports Turbo Build*

Brad, are you able to read oil temps with your gauge? I had to add a analog sensor to read oil temps on my gauge. Right now I am trying to determine what is the largest oil cooler I could fit on my car. With summer temps at 90+ I'm getting in the 230,s oil temps in boost and coolant in the 215s.


Rob


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Yes... OIL, COOLANT, AIR, EGT, BOOST (through a tap connection), RPM's, Throttle position.. hm... Maybe a few other things... I usually leave it on Coolant. I wish hit had the DSG oil temp too. But that's available with Ross Tech (Measuring Block 019 in the TCU). I'm happy with it... Except the boot gauge is a little flakey... Maybe I just don't understand it..

Mine was getting up to 103 coolant and 106 I think for oil yesterday. It was very humid too (how does humidity affect our cars?).

I'll install my oil cooler in a few weeks. I won't be jamming on it huge anyway for a while..

Marcel said I could go to 18 PSI with Stage IV DSG software and stock clutches... That's i'd say about 450 HP on HPA's dyno. 

His note on that.
"As to the boost on oem clutches, 18psi would be my recommended max BUT once
1000miles are on them you will need to take 3rd gear, log block 011 in DSG
and be sure we are not exceeding 12bar."

Also. For those with fueling questions... I asked him about the fuel pump.. 

"The Bosch 044 for your big fuel system is not an ideal fit yet. We were just
experimenting with it on the awd eos build and just reverted back last night
to your configuration (Walbro). Once we get a design that works, no re programming
will be needed."


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

I'm running 044 on my setup but depends if the tune is setup for it.
I have on/off in cabin switch to keep the noise down when cruising.
Steve


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## Rford71 (Sep 1, 2011)

*Nür Technik - HPA Motorsports Turbo Build*

Why is Marcel limiting you to 450 hp? You have the 500 hp kit with the 750cc fuel injectors. 

I switched from the Walbro 255 to Bosch 044, it in side 034 surge tank so it's pretty quiet.


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

The engine and (local) fuel are strong enough to easily hit 21 PSI.. I'm at 19.. Which was about 475/475 at HPA. But my OE clutch i have in now is a bit of a weak link and I don't feel like smoking it. So about 17-18 PSI will limit the transmission to about 12bar... Thus I'm guessing 450 HP.... My old transmission was flaky and casing problems with my clutches, so i'm having them rebuilt... But that takes a while so I have an extra clutch pack that's OE...

The top speed of the new transmission is 220MPG... Not likely to see it in real life though. Not my thing.

Ya... It would seem pretty easy to put a switch in for the fuel pump... But it does not really bother me too much... What i'd like to build it some sort of protection for that area under the car. I don't really like the design as it hangs a bit..


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## DamienSteal (Aug 13, 2012)

was very nice read sentari.. you've got 1 of the nicest TT's I've seen. I actually wanted a TT for a long time.. with kids the rear seat space held me from purchasing. 

So how did the new tranny work out.. longer gears? did you lose sum mid range pull?


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

... It would very likely be much faster on the track because you don't really have to switch too many gears... It's got so much torque that I don't think it really matters.. It's a little more about the RPM's now to compensate. I don't have my built clutches in, so i've been keeping it a bit sane... In a lot of ways these things can really be too fast.. You can't just stomp on it and switch lanes... You could literally blast right into the person you were passing because the power comes on so fast. 

My son has been sitting in the back of mine for the last 3 years... And probably for another year or more. So it's been ok on that front. But I do have two other audits...

But the way I like to say it is:

LaBron James has 2 rings
Michael Jordan has 6 rings..

Sentari... 12 rings!


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## DamienSteal (Aug 13, 2012)

sentari said:


> But the way I like to say it is:
> 
> LaBron James has 2 rings
> Michael Jordan has 6 rings..
> ...


But I got 4 "W's"....Vee"W's".. (ok that was a stretch:laugh


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## DamienSteal (Aug 13, 2012)

sentari said:


> it's really only 4th gear... It would very likely be much faster on the track because you don't really have to switch too many gears... It's got so much torque that I don't think it really matters.. It's a little more about the RPM's now to compensate. I don't have my built clutches in, so i've been keeping it a bit sane... In a lot of ways these things can really be too fast.. You can't just stomp on it and switch lanes... You could literally blast right into the person you were passing because the power comes on so fast.



Did you swap out the DQ250 for the DQ500...which im guessing is the R36 DSG? Or is the R36 DSG similar to the DQ250 just the gears are different? Can I just swap gears or is there more to it?


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

A DQ500 is more difficult to swap out/in.
Sentari and I both have the HPA upgrade box with fairy dust.
Steve


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## DamienSteal (Aug 13, 2012)

sTT eV6 said:


> A DQ500 is more difficult to swap out/in.
> Sentari and I both have the HPA upgrade box with fairy dust.
> Steve


Not something they make anymore?


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

Our boxes were put in a few months ago, so there are some about..maybe worth a call to HPA, but it is only for the serious cars over 500lb/ft.
Steve


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

I thought I needed a new gearbox for some other issue, so I just got this upgraded one. It does work pretty good though. No complaints about it. But I do have another perfectly good gearbox just setting here now...


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## JohnLZ7W (Nov 23, 2003)

sentari said:


> The oil cooler kit. It will go in shortly...


Did you ever post pics of the oil cooler install? I'm curious about what looks like duct work and mounting bracket in your pic. Were those custom made or part of a kit for the TT?


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

I have not installed it yet. I've been lazy... But I will for sure document it.


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

A few short videos of the sweet VR6-T sound.... GoPro set in the middle.. Maybe I should do one near the tips.

[video]http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r741/b_rossiter/GOPR0240_zps95906bb0.mp4[/video]









And another...


[video]URL=http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r741/b_rossiter/GOPR0242_zpsa665f039.mp4[/video]


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

Nice clips.
Your sounds more raspy than mine, but I don't have much of an exhaust fitted..
Clutch seems to be biting well, but what boost are you running on the vids?
Steve


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

19 PSI. It's still the stock clutch pack that we installed. It seems to work very well with HPA Stage IV. Although I have not done a launch on it. Frankly after it's been broke in, it's running better than it ever has. 3rd and 4th gears are freaking monsters in this new gear box.

Here's a munch better video of this monster. I put the GoPro by the tip this time. When the sound gets really gnarly, I believe it's the valve opening.

[video]http://vid1365.photobucket.com/albums/r741/b_rossiter/HPAFT-500VR6TurboDualClutchDSG_zps73945158.mp4[/video]


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

Sweet..full on
Will have to return the vid from my end very soon.
Steve


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

It's funny because my wife noticed that the reflection in the carbon fiber shows the scenery if you look closely. 

Also... The beginning of this thread likely has pictures of the entire exhaust laid out... It's basically HPA built from exhaust manifold to the tips and everything in-between.


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## URHank (Mar 19, 2009)

sentari said:


> 19 PSI. It's still the stock clutch pack that we installed. It seems to work very well with HPA Stage IV. Although I have not done a launch on it. Frankly after it's been broke in, it's running better than it ever has. 3rd and 4th gears are freaking monsters in this new gear box.
> 
> Here's a munch better video of this monster. I put the GoPro by the tip this time. When the sound gets really gnarly, I believe it's the valve opening.
> 
> [video]http://vid1365.photobucket.com/albums/r741/b_rossiter/HPAFT-500VR6TurboDualClutchDSG_zps73945158.mp4[/video]


Sounds really good. Nice car


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

Wastegate noise comes through when you get on it..which interrupts the pure sound of the engine..
Steve


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Time for a Saturday drive... I'll write down the gears/rpm/speed for a few combinations... Might show some interesting info from this longer gear box...


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

sentari said:


> Time for a Saturday drive... I'll write down the gears/rpm/speed for a few combinations... Might show some interesting info from this longer gear box...


Ratios..
Primary Gear

1.
2.933

2.
1.792

3.
1.194

4.
0.837

5
0.838

6.
0.698

R.
1.571
6th is 30mph per 1000rpm, OEM box is 26mph
Steve


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

And hopefully the real data correlates to the numbers below.. The last formula seems to be very close... I converted a few times so a small margin of error is in this... The reason why it's not perfectly smooth is because this is a real test on the freeway and my foot is not perfectly linear on the throttle (thus RPM's which affect MPH). I wish I had done this same graph on the stock gearbox...


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Still running well. A bit lurchy on take off's after it's warmed up. Can't seem to shake that. But i'm used to it now.

When I changed the DSG fluid last time I put on one of these.

http://www.uspmotorsports.com/DSG-Cool-Flow-Aluminum-Filter-Housing.html

And used one of these.

http://www.uspmotorsports.com/Drivetrain/DSG-Parts/DSG-Stainless-Steel-Transmission-Filter.html

Crazy quality on them.


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Ran into this fella on my way to LA. Says he will be racing Pikes Peak again and will be more careful next time!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ue6fwt6J9A


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

Nice find..hopefully you managed to have a good chat and squeeze a few tips out of him.
Steve


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

HPA Oil Cooler. Fits on the passenger side. Installed by Nur Technick. Sorry, no build pics. But here's the gear.


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## sentari (Dec 4, 2011)

Also, i'm likely on to my next project and the TT is for sale... I have not thought about a price. PM me if questions. I'm in Minneapolis area...


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