# Persistent P0106, looking for some diagnostic help



## edb4 (Mar 4, 2009)

Had this one for a while now, not too sure what keeps kicking the fault code. I've got an 09 Rabbit with about 60k miles on it, and the P0106 fault has been coming on and off for perhaps the last 10k miles. I've always thought it may have been the MAP sensor failing (checked for vacuum leaks everywhere but found nothing), but about two months ago the MAP sensor finally completely failed. After replacing the sensor, I figured the fault code would resolve itself, but the problem came back.

Without a more sophisticated scan tool (I'm using a cheap generic one that will just provide the fault code and description, but no metrics), I'm unsure of whether this barometric pressure reading, being outside of normal range, is too high or too low. At any rate, any suggestions for self-diagnostics out there? I think this is particularly interesting because no other fault codes are accompanying this P0106, so narrowing the issue down is a little more difficult.

The only relevant modification I can think of is my BSH intake, which I purchased for the '06-'08 Rabbit and modified to work with the '09 (just blocked off the bung for the MAF).

Ideas?


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

where are you located?


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0106

*Causes*

A P0106 could be caused by:

Bad MAP sensor
Water/dirt intrusion affecting MAP sensor connector
Intermittent open in the reference, ground, or signal wire for the MAP sensor
Intermittent short in the reference, ground, or signal wire for the MAP sensor
Ground problem due to corrosion causing intermittent signal problem
A break in the flexible air intake duct between the MAF and the intake manifold (not broken, but at leak on the spot where the maf would be.)
Bad PCM (do not assume the PCM is bad until you've exhausted all other possibilities)
Possible Solutions

Using a scan tool, watch the MAP sensor value with the key on, engine off. Compare the BARO reading with the MAP reading. They should be roughly equal. The voltage for the MAP sensor should read approx. 4.5 volts. Now start the engine and look for a significant drop in the MAP sensor voltage indicating the MAP sensor is working.

If the MAP reading doesn't change perform the following:

With the Key on, engine off, disconnect the vacuum hose from the MAP sensor. Using a vacuum pump, pull 20 in. of vacuum on the MAP sensor. Does the voltage drop? It should. If it doesn't inspect the MAP sensor vacuum port and vacuum hose to manifold for a restriction of some kind. Repair or replace as necessary.
If there are no restrictions, and the value doesn't change with vacuum, then perform the following: with the Key on and engine off and the MAP sensor unplugged, check for 5 Volts at the reference wire to the MAP sensor connector with a Digital Voltmeter. If there is none, check for reference voltage at the PCM connector. If the reference voltage is present at the PCM connector but not the MAP connector, check for open or short in the reference wire between MAP and PCM and retest.
If reference voltage is present, then check for existing ground at the MAP sensor connector. If it isn't present then repair open/short in the ground circuit.
If ground is present, then replace MAP sensor.
Other MAP sensor trouble codes include P0105, P0107, P0108 and P0109.


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## edb4 (Mar 4, 2009)

thygreyt said:


> http://www.obd-codes.com/p0106
> 
> A P0106 could be caused by:
> 
> A break in the flexible air intake duct between the MAF and the intake manifold (not broken, but at leak on the spot where the maf would be.)


Don't think this is my problem since I do not have a MAF sensor (2009) and the stock air tubing is no longer present as I have a CAI. If you're referring to the CAI's MAF bung that I have plugged, I can confirm that it is airtight.

As far as where I am located, I'm in San Diego.


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

again, look for leaks or something.

in you can, try to put the stock system back on to see if the problem persists. if it does, the its obvious that you have a leak somewhere.

or maybe even a dirty sensor.


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## edb4 (Mar 4, 2009)

I did a simple carb cleaner leak test with no avail. Unless there's some vacuum piping somewhere unusual that may be leaking, I do not believe it's a vacuum leak. If there's a diagram someone has of the entire vacuum system, that'd be helpful. Google turned up nothing of interest.

Regarding checking for a dirty sensor, the only affected sensor in this loop would be the MAP, no? This was recently replaced, as explained in my initial post, and shouldn't be giving me trouble quite yet. Also, I'm under the impression that a MAP won't fail from being dirty unless it is completely clogged, since it is essentially a barometric sensor. This assumption comes completely from knowledge of physics and not at all from how the car part is manufactured.

As far as reinstalling the stock airbox, I suppose this is the next thing to test. The problem is that I'll have to clear out my current CEL and wait for it to happen again, which can take several weeks. I drive plenty every day, yet sometimes the CEL will go away for no apparent reason only to pop back on the next month.


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## edb4 (Mar 4, 2009)

I'm reviving this for hopes of new help with new information. Pulled a freeze frame for the CEL:

Freeze frame information:
------------------
Engine Load = 23.529 %
Engine Coolant Temperature = 195.8 °F
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Long Term = -2.344 %
Engine RPM = 1,682.5 rpm
Speed (OBD) = 20.505 mph
Throttle Position(Manifold) = 15.686 %
Barometric pressure = 14.504 psi
Voltage (Control Module) = 14.112 V
Commanded Equivalence Ratio = 1 
Relative Throttle Position = 5.882 %
Ambient air temp = 66.2 °F
Absolute Throttle Position B = 15.686 %
Accelerator PedalPosition D = 21.176 %
Accelerator PedalPosition E = 21.176 %

So 14.5psi of vacuum does not seem unusual for my throttle at 15%, does it? My normal readings are 22 at idle and 0 at WOT.


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

Lol, you pulled the info with torque, right??

Anyways, did you try to put it back to stock??

Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk


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## Anile_eight (Sep 30, 2009)

I was having this issue with my MAF before I got the C2 Tune (they tune it out). It would be very random and come and go. It would come on twice a week then it would go away for a month then back like every other day.... Our engines never really liked the intakes other than stock. check the SAI hoses as i know those are prone to come loose. Good luck with the diagnosis.


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## edb4 (Mar 4, 2009)

Yes, I used Torque to pull the codes. Was much cheaper than buying a standalone scanner, but now I'm starting to realize that you definitely get what you pay for  .

Anyways, yes. I went back to stock and I threw the CEL within a matter of two or three days and 45 miles. So it's likely not the intake causing the issue. I've disconnected and reconnected all of the vacuum lines (that I am aware of) just to ensure they're seated well. Also, visually checked the lines for cracks; no dice.

Simply put, though, the data that I'm getting from freeze frames do not seem like they're enough to warrant a CEL. Unless there's more data I should consider besides load, throttle position, and vacuum, I'm starting to wonder if the problem is electrical. It appears that the general consensus on the interwebs is that any MAP sensor should produce about 1 to 1.5v current at idle, and 4.5v at WOT. I'll hook up a multimeter and see if I can get a steady reading.

greyt, you seem familiar with Torque. Do you know if the raw sensor data for barometric pressure just the same as measuring voltage as seen through OBDII and applying a formula? E.g. the tool sees ~2.0v reported from the MAP sensor and converts that value into its mercury/inch equivalent? If so, I don't have to play with a multimeter quite yet (unless problem is at ECU end of wiring, not MAP...).

...Or should I just pony up some dollars and take her in to a shop? :laugh:


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## VWDUBBTECH (Oct 15, 2011)

Okay lets take it back a notch, i had this same problem kick my ass with the coming back with the same code and a unhappy customer. This what you do......if the sensor has oil all over the sensor its because the crankcase breather, which is intergated with the valve cover. So you need to replace valve cover,clean the sensor of oil since you already put a new one in, if not replaced yet;do so. And repin the wiring 8 inches back. This help from vwoa tech helpline..ssshhhh diddnt get it from me.hahaha, other then that your up **** creak if it appears again.


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

lol, i have torque (kiwi adapter) and vag com (vcds) and i use both to log data.

after comparing, torque is VERY precise, and very reliable. I love loggin data, i dont know.. i find it fun...

i love comparing gas ranges, or temps, or mpgs per rpm, different accels, and more...  and torque lets me do just that, and without the need of having a laptop on my copilot's seat.

anyways, i'll do some logs and post the data so that we may compare my 09 without your fault, against yours.

whats weird is that with 09s you should be able to run next to any intake with no issues.


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## edb4 (Mar 4, 2009)

Thanks, hopefully your data will be of use, but from what I recall, you're running a flashed ECU with multiple mods. If I'm lucky, your sensor values will be within similar range for comparison.

I can't think of anything that I could be missing except for a crack in the hose in a place I couldn't see or spray carb cleaner at. I'm pretty damn sure that the intake is not the issue here, since the problem doesn't resolve when the stock airbox is on the car. And I also believe it is extremely unlikely that there is some sort of permanent damage elsewhere in the engine due to the use of the CAI.

An above poster says that it may be the crankcase breather, and I suppose it is plausible. However, I think I'd like to exhaust all other options before attempting to remove the valve cover for some inspection. This, along with a faulty ECU and a faulty/dirty MAP (since sensor readings _appear_ to be normal) are at the bottom of my list of "possible culprits." Nevertheless, I'll inspect the MAP again today for signs of oil. I'm thinking it'd be pretty tough to clog that thing up with oil due to it's design and orientation, but you never know. As far as checking inside the sensor protrusion on the MAP, I'm guessing it is wise to just gently swab a Q-tip inside, without prodding deep enough to touch the actual sensor? I'm not sure as to how the inner workings of the MAP are, but stabbing at it definitely seems like something not to do.

(Also, wish I could afford to just take it in to a pro!)


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## boobus23 (Oct 28, 2008)

hate to revive an old thread but what ever came of this? im having th same issue on my mk6 2.5 and its running my through the ringer. any insight you could provide would be of great help. :thumbup:


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## edb4 (Mar 4, 2009)

Two new threads came of it:

First: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-again-vortexers.-09-Rabbit-P0106-P2178-P2188

Then: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5905473-More-fault-codes-after-MAP-sensor-replaced

Grab some popcorn, it's a long read. TL;DR, I got a specific flash from UM that should have solved the problem. It made it better, now P0106 pops up very rarely, and disappears quickly. So it is "better", but not perfect yet. You'll see that I was advised to take in the car to get scanned next time it happens. Problem is, I haven't had a chance to. Only once after posting that message did my car throw the MIL again, and it turned itself off the next day. It's been happy ever since.

I got my MG up-to-code in California, so I've been driving that a lot more recently, especially since the sun has been shining.  So the Rabbit hasn't been getting as much love (and therefore road time) recently.


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## boobus23 (Oct 28, 2008)

Thanks for the quick reply man. Im sorta happy to hear that its "better" but ive been dumping so much money into this POS just to keep it running that i just cant see myself spending 499 big ones for a tune right now just to fix some dumb issue like this. I cant believe this isnt more common of a problem or better yet that no ones found a more reasonable, actual way of fixing this.


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## edb4 (Mar 4, 2009)

The tune was $399, and was the UM 91 octane tune w/ additional fix for this issue. I don't see that as unreasonable at all. If you're not looking to pay for a fix, just live with it. Scan the CEL every week to make sure it's still just P0106. I never had any serious issues running with the code, save for one or two instances of weird idle or afr.


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## boobus23 (Oct 28, 2008)

lol i mean no offense by it but it seems like getting the tune is like covering a pile of sh*t with dirt. doesnt change the fact that the problem is still there, just covers it. A tune should solely be used to enhance the experience, not fix CEL issues (other than firmware ones). Once this all gets ironed out I'll repost and let future DIYers know what fixed it for me. Thanks again. :beer:


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## edb4 (Mar 4, 2009)

Whatever you say! :thumbup:


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## boobus23 (Oct 28, 2008)

one valve cover later, good as new :thumbup:


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## ryguy85 (Jul 10, 2011)

im having similar issues. so far I replaced the n80 valve since its cheap and im going to see if I still get any codes. next step is to replace the valve cover.


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## boobus23 (Oct 28, 2008)

dealer did mine free of charge, if you still have powertrain warranty (8 years 80k miles) be sure to talk to them and have them do it for you :beer: best of luck man let us know how it goes


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## ryguy85 (Jul 10, 2011)

Unfortunately I am out of warranty now (170k km). I'm still getting the codes so I ordered a valve cover. It was only $130 so that's not bad and the install looks super easy. 

I'm going to do plugs and coils the same time because why not.


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## boobus23 (Oct 28, 2008)

yeah its a good idea, my plugs are on the way too. hope it helps man, keep me posted


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## ryguy85 (Jul 10, 2011)

Just changed my valve cover, plugs, and coilpacks. So far there are no codes after going for a short highway run, but only time will tell. I'm pretty sure the pcv was stating to go since there was more oil than i would like in the breather hose and covering the old MAP sensor.


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## boobus23 (Oct 28, 2008)

thats good news man. hope it doesnt come back :beer:


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## ScienceJesus (Jun 6, 2013)

I've been having this similar problem for about a year and change now. Sadly, I actually have a clock on getting it fixed because PA has an emissions test that apparently won't allow the tech to proceed while the fault code is active. 

In May of 2012, the CEL came on and popped the P0106 code. All I had was the basic AutoZone code pull so I couldn't get details. It was a week before I was making a trip to Chicago from Pittsburgh. I made the trip anyway because it wasn't affecting mileage significantly and the car was running fine. 

Long story short, I replaced the the MAP sensor after I got back in order to pass emissions. The dealership wanted me to replace the entire intake manifold section but I wasn't about to throw $500 at it (they refused to cover my 2009 Rabbit with 55k on it under powertrain) and opted for the $50 fix of a new MAP sensor only. It worked temporarily. The CEL came back on a few weeks later but then went out again a day or so later. It stayed off this time. 

Fast forward to March of this year and the CEL came on again (oddly enough, right before I was about to drive from Pittsburgh to Chicago again). The dealership cleared the code and ran a leak test and tested the vaccuum. They came up with nothing. I still said screw it and made the drive agian. I made it about 1000 miles before the code came on again. It turned off again after a few miles and was intermitent for a few weeks until it's been on steady for the past few weeks. 

I never got any of the other codes though. It's been steady with P0106 only since the beginning of this issue. I'm thinking about just throwing another new MAP sensor on it (I've only put on about 7k miles since the last one) rather than dealing with the whole manifold assembly for almost 10x as much. 

But if anyone else has had any luck with figuring out why these cars start eating MAP sensors after only 50-someK miles, that would be awesome. How widespread is this problem? Why hasn't there been a recall on this if it's as widespread as it appears to be? Because it seems to be happening to everyone around the same mileage.


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## ryguy85 (Jul 10, 2011)

It certainly seems like this issue is fairly widespread. 

Since changing my valve cover, plugs, and coils, I have not had the P0106 come back. I still get an occasional P3078 which may be legit but it is often accompanied by a P0150A which is a known software issue. I really should get the software update and probably clean my throttle body too. 


I recently changed the small auxillary cooling fan since it was starting to go but I doubt that will have any bearing on these codes.


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## ScienceJesus (Jun 6, 2013)

I'm going to clear the code this week and then see if it comes back. 

The service guy at the stealership suggested Sea Foam. Anyone tried it? I'm debating doing it next fill-up to at least give it a shot. I'm gonna use my mediocre Google-Fu to see if this has been done before for this code, but who knows. 

Otherwise, I'm contemplating just swapping the MAP sensor again and riding it for another year. As long as I get it to pass emissions (it's one of the readiness codes that has to pass in PA's emission's tests), I don't really give a damn if it comes back in 500 miles or 5 miles or 50,000 miles. And if I keep having to throw this $40 part at it every year rather than pay the almost $600 they quoted to "take care of it" last year, as long as I don't have my car for another 15 years, I'm golden.


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## jcomnislash (Dec 28, 2009)

Hate to resurrect an old thread, but seems like this issue is happening to a lot of people. 

I have an 2010 golf 2.5 (56,XXX kilometers) and started having the P0106 code show intermittently at the beginning of summer. Finally had a chance to take it to the dealer a couple weeks ago and they replaced the MAP sensor and 2 intake gaskets that they found were leaking. Then the code came back... just dropped the car back at the dealer this morning. Let's see what happens... 

I've read that this could be a valve cover issue?...


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## edb4 (Mar 4, 2009)

Reviving old threads is better than not using search and creating a new thread!  

Yep, this is the "common" procedure by VW techs. First replace MAP, then check for vacuum leaks, then replace the valve cover (as it houses the PCV). All of these did not fix my issue, though some report that the new valve cover did finally fix it. UM offers an ECU tune with an added fix for the P0106 issue, but that did not work for me either (though I should take my car back to be assessed further by the shop I had perform the tune, I just haven't had the time or motivation to do so). 

I've been living with the issue since (I am this thread's OP, so my story's above), 87,000mi/140,000km now and the car seems fine save for intermittent CEL that will pop up every couple weeks and then clear itself ~5 start-up cycles later. 

Sorry I don't have any better advice, but I'm still in the same boat as you, and have no urge to repair the issue anymore.


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

read about the diagnoses and repairs in this thread: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-again-vortexers.-09-Rabbit-P0106-P2178-P2188 

*edb4* actually started this one too in March2012  

post numbers #26-32 forward has a link that gives some information on diagnosing and fixing this. 

basically: 



remove air box assembly 

remove throttle body and clean it 

remove map sensor and clean it 

clean inside your intake manifold plenum to rid any oil residue 

reinstall map sensor 

reinstall throttle body 

reinstall air box assembly 

clear engine codes 

 

peek at the link on #27 if you want to see why mine was throwing this code.


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## jcomnislash (Dec 28, 2009)

Appreciate the feedback guys!

just thought I'd continue sharing my experience - so after my second encounter with the dealer the problem "went away" for about 3 weeks, and then surprise, the CEL randomly came back on.

For my second visit, the dealer found yet another intake gasket (so now 3 our of 5 intake gaskets have been replace) was leaking and also changed the connector pins that connect to the MAP sensor. The reason for this was because they were getting inconsistent readings from the new MAP sensor to the ECU... and when the played with the little wire leading up to the MAP sensor 

that readings would change. Now, common sense would tell me that the disruption could be occuring anywhere along that wire going inbetween the MAP and ECU, so I would've just replaced the whole thing... of course that's obviously an insane amount of work, so they just ghetto-fitted a new connector.

On top of this, after my second visit to the dealer I noticed a whooping noise coming from my engine compartment... pulled over to check it out and part of my air intake (stock btw) was missing. I had to go back the following week (this was on a friday and the dealership was closed that weekend) to get a new piece. They tried to tell that the piece was never there, but they ended replacing it anyways - but even though they replaced it, they didn't even screw the intake piece back in, they just placed it there - hanging. 

I'm reallly beginning to doubt the skill level of this dealership's techs. It's supposed to be the best dealership around too (I live in the Toronto, Canada area). They have all these accolades they keep bragging about, but I think it's just for show...

Car runs fine though, and if the engine light wasn't on, I wouldn't even think there was an issue. Usually this type of issue would cause fuel consumption to increase, but I'm still getting the same gas mileage that I've gotten since I bought the car (aside from the break-in period for the first 1000kms or so)...

... I ended up disabling the code today... I don't have the time or the patience to go back to the dealership. I may try again, but I feel like their techs are not very good...


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

jcomnislash said:


> For my second visit, the dealer found yet another intake gasket (so now 3 our of 5 intake gaskets have been replace) was leaking and also changed the connector pins that connect to the MAP sensor. The reason for this was because they were getting inconsistent readings from the new MAP sensor to the ECU... and when the played with the little wire leading up to the MAP sensor


with the labor involved in getting to the intake manifold gaskets, it's completely illogical for them to replace them one or two at a time. it kind of makes me believe that they didn't change them at all. for them to tell you that they were only replacing one or two things thing out of a set of five while the system is opened would only be done if they were trying to string you along, get you out of their hair, or let you creep past your warranty period.

it's relatively easy to check to see if your map sensor is getting oil-soaked. you just need a torx bit screwdriver:









do yourself a favor and take a few minutes to remove and inspect the sensor. if there is oil on it, clean it off with a clean napkin to show what was removed, take a photograph of it for evidence, then reinstall it and clear the codes.

if the code comes back in two or three weeks, then you know your intake manifold plenum needs to be cleaned. another quick map sensor inspection will probably show the same oily results.

and lets say you do get your intake manifold plenum cleaned out, after about a month of driving, pop out the map sensor again to check for cleanliness. if you find excessive oil again, then you can start pointing fingers at the mechanism upstream.

regardless, the plenum has to be clean in order for the system to work properly.


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## jcomnislash (Dec 28, 2009)

@le0n

I really appreciate your help 

That was actually one of the first things I did when I started getting the light, and the sensor did have a bit of oil on it, albeit not too much though. I cleaned it and the light still came back... that said, I didn't clean out the plenum, which is a great suggestion. I'm gonna try that when I change my spark plugs in the next couple weeks.

I can tell that the tech that was working on my car wasn't too great, like I said in my previous post, he left my intake system detached from the motor and forgot to put one of the pipes back in... major fail!


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## Singleton35 (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi everyone, I've been following this for a couple of weeks now, I have a Jetta Mk5 with the code P0106, I know it is not the MAP sensor as it was replaced by a mechanic (I used to trust) and I am still getting the code. 

Hopefully here in Mexico the stealership  is not that stealing... I will stop by 2nd week of september in case I dont get this straigthened out before. 

Is there another easy way of getting the intake manifold clean without removing it? I am not very savvy with mechanical parts but I hate that my problems don't get resolved. Btw, not using seafoam either, I think I could mess it up (hydrolock) and just bought the second hand car.

Maybe some injector cleaning could do the trick? 
Throttle body cleaning? 

Does cleaning the throttle body could also clean part of the intake manifold? you know using chemicals from the autozone.


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

jcomnislash said:


> That was actually one of the first things I did when I started getting the light, and the sensor did have a bit of oil on it, albeit not too much though. I cleaned it and the light still came back... that said, I didn't clean out the plenum, which is a great suggestion.


i sort of believe it's not supposed to have any oil on it.



Singleton35 said:


> Hi everyone, I've been following this for a couple of weeks now, I have a Jetta Mk5 with the code P0106, I know it is not the MAP sensor as it was replaced by a mechanic (I used to trust) and I am still getting the code.
> 
> Hopefully here in Mexico the stealership  is not that stealing... I will stop by 2nd week of september in case I dont get this straigthened out before.
> 
> ...


your mechanic replaced the part that was throwing the code. nothing wrong with his actions there. if you read on this topic, this fault can be rather cryptic. it's the only reason why i didn't replace the sensor; i saw that it was only a temporary fix (every single time).

you don't have to remove the intake manifold, just the throttle body.

perform the following, in this order:


remove air box assembly
remove throttle body and clean it
remove map sensor and clean it
clean inside your intake manifold plenum to rid any oil residue
reinstall map sensor
reinstall throttle body
reinstall air box assembly
clear engine codes


also, just this week i was told there was a software update for our cars that takes care of this fault now. not sure if that is covered under warranty though. either way, it probably costs more than a can of throttle body cleaner.

the throttle body has to be removed in order to clean the plenum of the intake manifold. anything you spray directly in there will only clean the t.b. and possibly the intake runners, but not the plenum area.


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## edb4 (Mar 4, 2009)

le0n said:


> i sort of believe it's not supposed to have any oil on it.



It is normal for a little bit of oil and other crap to accumulate on the sensor. The PCV will recirculate gasses from the crank case back into the intake manifold.


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

edb4 said:


> It is normal for a little bit of oil and other crap to accumulate on the sensor. The PCV will recirculate gasses from the crank case back into the intake manifold.


Yes. It's inevitable, and it was not forseen by the engineers that it would eventually cause an issue, but, it did.


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## jcomnislash (Dec 28, 2009)

@le0n

The first time I went to the dealership for the warranty issue they said there was a software update, which they did for free (maybe because I'm still under warranty?). I wonder if that was the same one you heard about or if there's a new one directly related to this issue. 

Since my CEL is still on, I may venture to the dealership one more time for another warranty repair. I really hate going there... and considering my last 2 experiences, I'm scared that they'll forget to reinstall even more parts... ugh.

Interestingly enough and probably not related, I've been getting pretty good gas mileage since my CEL came on... I'm doing like 38MPG.


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

jcomnislash said:


> The first time I went to the dealership for the warranty issue they said there was a software update, which they did for free (maybe because I'm still under warranty?). I wonder if that was the same one you heard about or if there's a new one directly related to this issue.


i think the software update is relatively new. perhaps released within the last month or two.



jcomnislash said:


> Interestingly enough and probably not related, I've been getting pretty good gas mileage since my CEL came on... I'm doing like 38MPG.


perhaps you are driving more delicately now that the cel is on, hah hah? in theory, the correlation has to be correct. if the system can't properly read the pressure, then maybe the fuel calculations are a little off in the lean direction.


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## Singleton35 (Aug 30, 2013)

Hey guys, reporting back from what happened to me and my Jetta... 

So, after last time I wrote and since I didnt want to mess up with cleaning the internal of the intake manifold tried my own thoughts on the problem. 

Put two STP fuel injector and fuel system system cleaner on the tank, and cleared the CEL. 

It came back, but with a different code, System running rich in idle (cant remember the number) so I refer the problem, of the cleaner acting on the injectors letting them pass more gas, so I cleared that CEL. 

I readed the computer at the end of the day and for a few days I watched a pending fault of P0106, but next day it dissapeared. 

I was happy because the readiness of the systems were all complete and no CEL after that, I said to myself, 130Km without CEL, I might probably had fixed it already. 

But it had not fixed magically... So I end up getting a schedule at the stealership for the last monday (9/9), and it has been sitting there all week. 

The VW rep that takes care of my car, told me that they have been through a series of re-work of bad diagnosed vehicles (bunch of complaints), so they are enforcing these days that the VW techs are 1000% sure before they start charging for swapping "defective" parts. 

Given that they need to be really sure about the diagnosis and that they know I previously replaced the MAP sensor, they are still trying to figure out what is making my car throw the CEL.

So, not a common issue is going with my car? or they suck at their own business... 

The rep told me that a VW Master tech is now monitoring the work being done to my car, hopefully I can get more information tomorrow 

P.S. Just for comparison, this is all being done for the one time fee for diagnostic that at the exchange rate of today it would be only 84USD is it cheap or expensive for the stealerships in your area? Unless they are charging me the hard work finding the error


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

Singleton35 said:


> Given that they need to be really sure about the diagnosis and that they know I previously replaced the MAP sensor, they are still trying to figure out what is making my car throw the CEL.
> 
> So, not a common issue is going with my car? or they suck at their own business...


well, in this thread there are two possible solutions:

- clean the map sensor and intake manifold plenum
- get the latest software update from VW that resolves the P0106 (it's new)

edit: also, anyone else looking in on this thread: you can't fix the P0106 with stuff that you put in the gas tank or even directly in the injector stream.

and as far as costs go, it's right about average.

also, there are no moving parts on our intake manifold, so don't agree to let them replace it unless it is under warranty; even though it would solve the error due to its cleanliness. the manifolds can break, but they'll throw a different code from the start and most likely cause the engine to misfire.

keep us updated and good luck...


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## jcomnislash (Dec 28, 2009)

Just thought I'd report back with an update. 

I decided to do a visual inspection of my car intake manifold and upon removing my MAP sensor and throttle body I immediately found a problem. There was oil, and not just a little, there was a nice internal coating of the stuff. I had noticed oil on the sensor before, and had cleaned it off, but I wasn't expecting for the plenum to be lined with a coat of oil like it was.

So I cleaned it up just as le0n suggested and since I was in there I also changed the spark plugs (I'm at around 58000 kms/36000 miles). I've driven about 1300 kms/800 miles since then and no light has returned. Before, the light was coming on and off every 60kms. 

oh, and while I was taking stuff apart I came across another missing piece that the dealership forgot to put back... I still can't believe how crappy these VW techs are at this dealership I went too... shame.

Thanks again to Le0n for the tip. Looks like you may have solved my issue.


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

^^ no problem, man. glad i could help. also, congrats on repairing it yourself.

hopefully, you've noticed an improvement in performance over the past few miles, too. it's one of the perks of cleanliness


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## tankisarockstar (Jan 11, 2006)

Speaking of the MAP sensor code, I'm literally sitting in the waiting room of VW service for them to tell me that it is my MAP sensor again...this is the 3rd one on my 2011 jetta.


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

tankisarockstar said:


> Speaking of the MAP sensor code, I'm literally sitting in the waiting room of VW service for them to tell me that it is my MAP sensor again...this is the 3rd one on my 2011 jetta.


what your dealership techs need to realize is that the other two were possibly fine. they're probably going to want to replace the harness next. advise them to inspect/clean the intake plenum. it would take them less than a half hour to complete. 

have you past the 50k mile mark?


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## tankisarockstar (Jan 11, 2006)

they told me it was the intake pressure switch, but found a software update. they installed the software and cleared the code. its been fine knock on wood, i'm coming up on 50k, its about 49962 lol.


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

tankisarockstar said:


> they told me it was the intake pressure switch, but found a software update. they installed the software and cleared the code. its been fine knock on wood, i'm coming up on 50k, its about 49962 lol.


Yes. That is a new software update that masks/ignores the inconsistant readings. Keep in mind that there is oil residue in your intake manifold that should't be there and it won't go away on it's own.


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## Singleton35 (Aug 30, 2013)

I am really dissapointed with the Stealership in Mexico  

Ill make the story short. 

First week and a half, they did nothing, could not reproduce the error. Cleared code, and let me go. 
I went back again. 
This time, as I clearly read in this forum which has been of help, I stated DO NOT CHANGE MAP SENSOR. 
So they used the guided function on the VW, checked a bunch of lines here and there, showed me a broadcast from VW stating that most Mk6 have this error and that the update (WHICH IS FOR MK6) fixes it, all together with the clean up that Le0n has stated. Very accurate on that, Le0n very accurate. 

Mine is Mk5, since I did not want my MAP sensor replaced, and they were going through checking the lines (were not damaged), and could not stop the error from jumping ( I told them how to reproduce it, it is easy, just go over some bumpy road and it will pop up) they Took 2 weeks!, at the end convinced me that it was the MAP sensor and that I had limited them in going for this solution since the beginning. 

Well, guess what? CEL came back on after a day with the new MAP sensor, the clean up (I hope they did it) of the internals of the intake manifold I specifically asked if they did, and they said yes. they obviously checked harness, and also told me that there is no software update for my Mk5 that I am in the last revision 1010. 

Do you guys know, if is it possible to perform a downgrade? could be a buggy firmware. (they told me it is not possible) 
Do you guys know, if I go for one of those ECU tunning upgrades could make the error go away? 
Do you guys know, if my ECU is broken? they should have known. I am afraid that it is the next thing they will want to replace, I will go again today with them to have them refund me for something that clearly didnt resolve my problem. 

Any clues? any help will be greatly appreciated. 

:banghead::banghead::banghead:


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

just remove the map sensor and check to see if it is saturated with oil. it's only one screw to remove the sensor itself.


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## Singleton35 (Aug 30, 2013)

Le0n, 

I didnt do it myself, went back to the stealership and specifically asked if the MAP sensor was soaked everytime they pulled it out, he said no. 

However, I gave him a week, they finally found somebody within VW to actually state what you already stated in this forum

CLEAN THE INTAKE MANIFOLD. 

They are performing it right in this moment as far as I know, too much drama for this car problem, I guess it isnt in their books and somebody learned it from experience or common sense.

Should have started with "I saw in internet that you need to clean it" but sometimes the people just dont like that the users that they are supposed to support tell you how to fix something that you are supposed to know how to fix it. 

Anyways, if it gets the job done correctly I will have my lessons learned.


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

Singleton35 said:


> They are performing it right in this moment as far as I know, too much drama for this car problem, *I guess it isnt in their books and somebody learned it from experience or common sense.*


i basically compiled the trial and error results from different forums in regards to this fault code. some dated back a few years, so it was a good collection of data across the multiple models of vehicles that use the 2.5. well, good enough for me to draw a conclusion.

i wasn't about to do the same things that didn't work for everyone.










it will make it into their 'books' soon enough because the 2.5 engines that are out there in the world are now starting to reach that age where this condition will become more prevalent.


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## Singleton35 (Aug 30, 2013)

To le0n, I really appreciate all your help  I got another solution from the dealership after the intake manifold cleanup did not work for me, and I also saw it posted in the TDI forum club which at last could get rid of the P0106 code

I'll quote the TDI forum for simplicity 

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=355472


loganbmx4gt said:


> *16490/P0106/000262 - Manifold / Barometric Pressure Sensor (G71) / (F96): Implausible Signal *
> 
> *Possible Symptoms *
> 
> ...


What fixed it for me was: 

adjusting timing chain
replace bad tensioner
check car parameters (no clue what the VW technician actually referred on the car parameters)

I am already over 600Km and no CEL 

What did not fixed it for me: 


Replacing MAP sensor
Replacing Valve Cover (without checking for actual leaks, they tought it probably was damaged because it is plastic and could have been interfering with F96 sensor)
Clean-up intake manifold (may work for a lot of people, mine was really dirty but was not the bottom line problem, it might be cheaper and easier to clean it than replacing a tensioner or adjusting the timing chain so give it a shot first)

The Coronas are on me :beer::beer::beer:


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

^^ that's cool that you got it fixed.

what year is your jetta?

did you ever have an erratic idle?

find out if they flashed your ecm to the latest version.

also, thanks for the update.


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## Singleton35 (Aug 30, 2013)

It is a Jetta Mk5 2010, I had no erratic idle, and it has the lastest version (1010a). 
There are no newer software for the ECU as it was the last Mk5 year.

EDIT: Forgot to mention, and it will be useful for somebody, the car has only 50,000Km (30k miles aprox)


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

thanks for the update.

your engine is sort of young to have timing issues.

who does your oil changes? what brand/spec oil is being used?


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## vrsick147 (Jun 18, 2007)

checked mvb 93 in engine 01 field 3 % shouldnt be no more the +/ 5 %
also make sure your n205 valve is working correctly


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## Singleton35 (Aug 30, 2013)

le0n said:


> thanks for the update.
> 
> your engine is sort of young to have timing issues.
> 
> who does your oil changes? what brand/spec oil is being used?


Yes, I have no clue what could have ocassioned it but glad it was not more expensive.

And about the oil, I know the previous owner had done oil changes on time or km interval. It is stated in the service record of the car, however last one is from 40k Km.

Since the car went out of warranty they stopped using synthetic after it, so at least the last two were with mineral, but I don't know what brand, I know it had the same viscosity. 

I plan to swap it for castrol edge next week at VW direct express because it bugs me that it probably has mineral right now


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## Singleton35 (Aug 30, 2013)

le0n said:


> thanks for the update.
> 
> your engine is sort of young to have timing issues.
> 
> who does your oil changes? what brand/spec oil is being used?


Yes, I have no clue what could have ocassioned it but glad it was not more expensive.

And about the oil, I know the previous owner had done oil changes on time or km interval. It is stated in the service record of the car, however last one is from 40k Km.

Since the car went out of warranty they stopped using synthetic after it, so at least the last two were with mineral, but I don't know what brand, I know it had the same viscosity. 

I plan to swap it for castrol edge next week at VW direct express because it bugs me that it probably has mineral right now


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

Singleton35 said:


> Yes, I have no clue what could have ocassioned it...
> I plan to swap it for castrol edge next week at VW direct express because it bugs me that it probably has mineral right now


I've always understood that running the wrong oil in these engines can cause the hydraulic tensioners to not work properly.

Also, are you sure your odbii error code wasn't P0016? that would make a lot more sense for the solution that worked for you.


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## Singleton35 (Aug 30, 2013)

le0n said:


> I've always understood that running the wrong oil in these engines can cause the hydraulic tensioners to not work properly.
> 
> Also, are you sure your odbii error code wasn't P0016? that would make a lot more sense for the solution that worked for you.


I deleted my screenshots already, but I am sure it was P0106. I also saw it on the dealership VAS computer multiple times. 
Gee... I guess the faster I can get back some good VW 502 spec synthetic oil in there the better.


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## AlanLindner (Dec 17, 2013)

*What City VW said to fix*

The service advisor said to do the following:
Replace MAP sensor
Lenghten sensor wires and reroute
estimated cost: $450 ($130 for sensor)
Suspected heat issue.

Has anyone tried this?


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## Singleton35 (Aug 30, 2013)

AlanLindner said:


> The service advisor said to do the following:
> Replace MAP sensor
> Lenghten sensor wires and reroute
> estimated cost: $450 ($130 for sensor)
> ...


Hi, 

I am no expert of VW, but had this trouble as you could see if you have read past messages. 

I would start of, if it is Mk6, make sure it has the latest software update. If it is Mk5, do the same, except that it is something already known issue for Mk6, so they should just look through their guides and have the fix for you. 
Based off my experience changing MAP sensor alone would not fix it, specially if it does not do a crappy idle. (to me that means that the MAP itself its ok) they are telling you about wiring, I dont know if they have found something decisive that lets them know it is the wiring instead of something else, in my car, wiring was not a problem 

They tested my car ECU 'parameters' with a cold start or not even started I think, just by letting it rest all night, and they found that my chain tensioners were not good, when replaced, that got the problem solved.

Others in the forum recomend an Intake Manifold cleaning. 

I would tell them these things so they can open their perspective to test more things in your car to be extremely sure before you can spent some good money on it. I just hope that they dont take advantage in the long run and start telling you it is more expensive stuff or, ask them if they will pay for MAP sensor if they change it and it ends up not being the MAP and the wiring. 

my 2 cents.


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## AlanLindner (Dec 17, 2013)

The car is a Mk5. From the VIN, the software update does apply.

I thought this sensor was before the injectors. How does oil get on there?


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## edb4 (Mar 4, 2009)

Oil and crap gets in there from PCV recirc. I popped off my MAP recently and blew it out with some compressed air. Also removed the TB and cleaned it out, as well as a bit of the intake. I didn't pop the intake off (it was Miller time and needed to put the car back together), but I got in there with a rag and stick and cleaned it up "decently". It got rid of my recurring P0108 for now. Now, as part of my oil change maintenance routine, I've also added "Remove MAP and clean" to the laundry list.

As everyone else says in this thread (including myself, I am now a believer): it may not necessarily be a software issue, it might not be much at all. Nothing may even be broken. You might just have oil and crap on the MAP and it is throwing off readings. Clean it off, reset MIL and see what happens. If it runs good for extended periods of time, perhaps just clean the sensor regularly (or be the first of our kind to run a catch can and see if it helps).


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

Singleton35, your vehicle's situation is still sort of the oddball out of the bunch. I can only think that it was attributed to a mis-correlation between the timing and the manifold pressure; in which case, a different tensioner did the trick.

for the rest of us, nothing was damaged. the wires/sensor/software were all fine. there was just something (oil residue) interfering with the MAP measurements.

regardless, i too would recommend AlanLindner to just clean the parts himself. it's basically free repair if you have pliers, a clean rag and a torx screwdriver.


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## Singleton35 (Aug 30, 2013)

le0n said:


> Singleton35, your vehicle's situation is still sort of the oddball out of the bunch. I can only think that it was attributed to a mis-correlation between the timing and the manifold pressure; in which case, a different tensioner did the trick.
> 
> for the rest of us, nothing was damaged. the wires/sensor/software were all fine. there was just something (oil residue) interfering with the MAP measurements.
> 
> regardless, i too would recommend AlanLindner to just clean the parts himself. it's basically free repair if you have pliers, a clean rag and a torx screwdriver.


being the oddball caused a lot of headaches... 

I hope AlanLindner gets his MAP cleaned and with that the problem gone... 
Also Alan, in the first page of this thread you will find pictures of the MAP location in case you dont know where exactly it is.

Let us know how it all went.


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## eurowagenMKV (May 9, 2009)

*help?*

Geeeez Im sorry to bring this topic back but I am fighting with VW right now to take care of this same issue… Has anyone been able to resolve p0106?

So first off, I have a 2009 2.5 Jetta Sportwagen

About a 5 months ago my check engine light would come on with p0106. It would turn off with in a couple miles and stay off for days.

When this continued to happen I took off my CAI, cleaned i, then cleaned the map sensor.

This would turn it off but would come back on within 200 miles.

4 months ago the check engine light would stay on and now it was idling funny… I replaced the actual intake filter and the map sensor, but this did not help.

I took it to a local shop who advised me to take it to a dealer because it may be under warranty.

I took it to the dealer and they ran some test here is what happened.

For the past 3 months I haven't had my car. They replaced the map sensor, secondary airflow sensor, a couple other sensors, valve cover, new lines and made sure I had the most up to date software. Some things were under warranty… but most I had to pay for. They would fix something tell me to pick up my car, I would drive it off the lost and turn right back around because the code was still on.

They finally escalated it to VW of America. Where they said it was my CAI giving bad readings and before they proceed they wanted stock air box back on. So i did… and after 2 more trips back to VW they say its the wiring harness… fun news is i have 2 weeks before the state makes me pass emissions.

I am in a battle with vw right now trying to figure out why a wiring harness would fray and why I spent over a grand to fix things that didn't need to be fixed if this was a known issue.

Can anyone give me some insight on why I feel crazy for asking VW to take care of this issue for me. And is a new wiring harness going to even fix my issue?

Sorry for the rant and going argo.


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

^^ go back and read my posts on the first page of this thread. a few of us have had luck with just removing the throttle body and wiping out the *intake manifold plenum*.

let us know if you need any additional information. good luck.


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## eurowagenMKV (May 9, 2009)

le0n said:


> ^^ go back and read my posts on the first page of this thread. a few of us have had luck with just removing the throttle body and wiping out the *intake manifold plenum*.
> 
> let us know if you need any additional information. good luck.


Thanks man! i cleaned the throttle body but haven't tried the intake manifold yet. i will try this monday


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## jcomnislash (Dec 28, 2009)

It's been about 15,000km since I had the engine light come on with this pesky code (Car had 70K on it now), and as luck would have it, it came back on again last week! So I reset the sucker and this morning after about 400km of driving it came back on again....

To be fair, I haven't done any maintenance on the car for the last 15K except oil changes and we just came out of a brutal winter up here in Toronto so the car needs a little TLC... Hopefully, I just have to clean out the plenum like last time and it'll be all good. 

Warranty is done on the car now, so the dealership is not an option. Not that they were ever able to do anything the 5 different times I went there with the same issue in the first place...

Has anyone else experienced a reoccurrence of this issue after 10-20K?


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

jcomnislash said:


> It's been about 15,000km since I had the engine light come on with this pesky code (Car had 70K on it now), and as luck would have it, it came back on again last week! So I reset the sucker and this morning after about 400km of driving it came back on again....
> 
> To be fair, I haven't done any maintenance on the car for the last 15K except oil changes and we just came out of a brutal winter up here in Toronto so the car needs a little TLC... Hopefully, I just have to clean out the plenum like last time and it'll be all good.
> 
> ...


cool update. in for your results.

i've done ~30k miles since the cleaning; still no cel. i'm interested to see what mine looks like after this run. i have a spare throttle body gasket so i may open it up in a few days to peek in there.

good luck.


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## jcomnislash (Dec 28, 2009)

Throttle body cleaner prevails once again!

So I did a good cleaning of the plenum once again and wouldn't you know it - no light in almost 3000kms...

this is clearly a design flaw issue - the oil just sits in that little pocket where the MAP sensor is...


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

jcomnislash said:


> this is clearly a design flaw issue - the oil just sits in that little pocket where the MAP sensor is...


yeah. and there's been attempts to "patch" this with the software, but it doesn't always work. like i said to begin with; i like the fact that the map lets us know that something is not right.

i need to throw a catch can in there. shouldn't be too bad because i already have a non-oem hose connection due to my custom cai.


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## Sansfeeling (Jan 8, 2015)

*Sorry to revive an old thread...*

Hey guys, I registered here as my wife's car has been having similar problems as mentioned in this thread. It's a 2011 golf 2.5 California car. 

First it threw the MAP sensor code. I pulled it apart and cleaned intake and MAP sensor of oil. Car has 50k miles so I figured it just needed a clean up from some "blow by". All was well for a month, then the code came back. I replaced the MAP sensor to rule out that as a problem and again cleaned oil out of the intake plenum. 

At this time I inspected the PCV diaphragm and found a small tear. VW wants to sell you a whole valve cover for $200 plus. I found a new diaphragm at autozone for $25. Installed diaphragm, ensured intake was clean and went on my way hoping all was well. The wife drives 40 miles a day round trip to work. After a month the code came back and there was more oil in the intake plenum. 

This time I am stumped. I re inspected the new pcv diaphragm. No tears. Replaced oil filler cap. Applied pressure to pcv inlet to pressurize crank case and listen for leaks. All I can hear is air coming back through the intake plenum so I assume that's just going past the piston rings. 

So I am assuming that air is getting into the crank case somehow and flowing past the pcv diaphragm at a higher than normal rate. Where else could air get into the case? Also, what are the two attached lines going to the intake tube before the throttle body? One seems to be attached to the exhaust (for cold starts I presume) and the other goes to somewhere under the intake manifold. Is that a valve I should look at next? 

Sorry for the long winded post, but I'm pulling my hair out and I do not want to spend a ridiculous amount of money at the dealer....

Thanks so much for the help!


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## mk6matt (Jan 26, 2013)

Sansfeeling said:


> Hey guys, I registered here as my wife's car has been having similar problems as mentioned in this thread. It's a 2011 golf 2.5 California car.
> 
> First it threw the MAP sensor code. I pulled it apart and cleaned intake and MAP sensor of oil. Car has 50k miles so I figured it just needed a clean up from some "blow by". All was well for a month, then the code came back. I replaced the MAP sensor to rule out that as a problem and again cleaned oil out of the intake plenum.
> 
> ...



I think the larger of the two is for the secondary air injection, the other goes to the block. The one on the manifold goes to the valve cover. I've had this issue on my 2012 and have found no solution, dealer couldn't find the issue, the MAP is clean and the car seems to run well. I generally just clear it when I find it (normally doesn't trigger a CEL).


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## Sansfeeling (Jan 8, 2015)

mk6matt said:


> I think the larger of the two is for the secondary air injection, the other goes to the block. The one on the manifold goes to the valve cover. I've had this issue on my 2012 and have found no solution, dealer couldn't find the issue, the MAP is clean and the car seems to run well. I generally just clear it when I find it (normally doesn't trigger a CEL).


So your saying that your air box plenum is also filling with oil and you can't find a solution? The smaller hose goes into the block? I there a valve associated with that line that could be letting too much air into the case?

Thanks


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## mk6matt (Jan 26, 2013)

I'm saying that is the stock setup. I have NO lines going to the intake. Both the block and valve cover vent to atmosphere (I never had a SAI line); for that reason my MAP sensor is very clean and there is no oil build up especially in my IE mani (there was in my stock one before I switched the setup). If you want no oil in your plenum then you need to either go to a VTA (might be an issue in Cali) setup and plug the hole or run a catch-can (VTA or recirc). The PCV will always be venting vapours. Are yours more than average? maybe, I can't say. But, point being even with the PCV intact you will see oil. I still get the same code occasionally with no solution to be found. I haven't put much effort into finding one either (aside from google and a warranty trip to the dealer) because the car is running well. Considering how the your car is still quite new can you make a warranty claim?

EDIT: Both lines should be under vacuum and should be pulling air.


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## Sansfeeling (Jan 8, 2015)

mk6matt said:


> I'm saying that is the stock setup. I have NO lines going to the intake. Both the block and valve cover vent to atmosphere (I never had a SAI line); for that reason my MAP sensor is very clean and there is no oil build up especially in my IE mani (there was in my stock one before I switched the setup). If you want no oil in your plenum then you need to either go to a VTA (might be an issue in Cali) setup and plug the hole or run a catch-can (VTA or recirc). The PCV will always be venting vapours. Are yours more than average? maybe, I can't say. But, point being even with the PCV intact you will see oil. I still get the same code occasionally with no solution to be found. I haven't put much effort into finding one either (aside from google and a warranty trip to the dealer) because the car is running well. Considering how the your car is still quite new can you make a warranty claim?
> 
> EDIT: Both lines should be under vacuum and should be pulling air.


Well, I can understand that there will be some oil after a long while. But fouling the MAP sensor once a month seems excessive. I just don't understand how the car did fine for 3 and a half years before it started this. 

I figure if it fouls one more time, ill cap the PVC connection on the intake plenum and put a filter on the PCV line. Ill just save the original line for when the time comes to smog this thing. 

Thanks for the advice, It's definitely appreciated.


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## mk6matt (Jan 26, 2013)

No problem, it sounds like an excessive amount of oil which is definitely odd. I ran a hose from the PCV under the car so the engine bay doesn't get all oily and gross :thumbup:


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## Sansfeeling (Jan 8, 2015)

mk6matt said:


> No problem, it sounds like an excessive amount of oil which is definitely odd. I ran a hose from the PCV under the car so the engine bay doesn't get all oily and gross :thumbup:


Yea I was thinking maybe put an uphill bend in the line initially so at least some of the oil will run back into the case, then run it down to the bottom of the car. Funny, I just did the exact same thing to my motorcycle. It had the blow by routed directly into the intake so it would be consumed, which caused a lot of carbon/gunk build up in the intake manifold as well. No sensors to foul though


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## ibleedblue (Sep 2, 2010)

*p0106*

So is anybody still having this problem after the update?
I'm still having this problem on my wife's 2012 jetta after the update I've replaced the senson once but this time I want to try to clean it what are you guys using to clean it? Thanks in advance


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## edb4 (Mar 4, 2009)

I never got the VW software update, but I've cleaned the MAP maybe twice now in the last 25-30k miles (really rough estimate) and the problem has never come back. I just used compressed air to clean it out.


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

ibleedblue said:


> So is anybody still having this problem after the update?
> I'm still having this problem on my wife's 2012 jetta after the update I've replaced the senson once but this time I want to try to clean it what are you guys using to clean it? Thanks in advance


an old white shirt will work.

i never got the software update either and so far, i've never had the error come back.


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

le0n said:


> i never got the software update either and so far, *i've never had the error come back*.


it finally came back after 70k miles.

I made a diy today to show any newcomers how simple this can be: http://www.europeanag.com/forum/index.php/topic,37339.0.html


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## PhthaloType (Feb 20, 2016)

Another "0106-er" checking in.

I had an intermittent P0106. Removed the MAP sensor and saw it was covered in oil. Cleaned it with MAF cleaner and reinstalled. Didn't seem to help, and eventually the CEL was always on. I then installed a new MAP sensor- I didn't clear the code, but it went off by itself after a day or so. After a few more days, the CEL came on again. This time there were two codes: P0106 and P2188 (too rich at idle). I figured the later was probably a side effect of the former. At this point I started digging into the forums and discovered this common issue with oil accumulation in the intake plenum. I took apart my intake and cleaned it up just like le0n demonstrated in his write-up. There was a decent amount of oil inside, but my throttle body was surprisingly clean for having 76k miles. That helped allay my fear that a bad PCV valve was contributing to the issue.

I cleared the codes, and so far so good after three days of driving. I think it's running a little smoother, especially at low RPM, but I'm not sure if it really is or if I'm just imagining it. I'll report if/when the CEL comes back.

BTW, it made a 3,000 mile road trip while having that issue, and still averaged 29.4 MPG (up to 31.6 for one tank), so it would seem a faulty MAP sensor doesn't really hurt things that much.


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## symbiot (Oct 21, 2007)

Also been dealing with a P0106. Didn't come up until I installed IE SRI kit last year. I think all those high revs put a greater strain on the PCV. While I was still diagnosing it, it slowly got progressively worse. Towards the end I could feel a noticeably drop in power on freeway on ramps coupled with rich codes and a multitude of misfires. 

Last weekend I put an IE valve cover on, capped the PCV port intake side, and vent to atmo. Then cleaned off the MAP and inside of the SRI. So far so good. Seems like this is the best place to start for those also experiencing the issue. Will add to the report right before and after a 3000+ mile road trip coming up. 

Best of luck P0106ers


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

^^ thanks for those results.

i'm nearing 2k miles since i cleaned it a month ago; still good.


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## VR (Jul 2, 2001)

Lots of good info on this thread that's helping me out. I too cleaned my map sensor, throttle body, and lower intake manifold recently and have about 350/400 miles CE free. May call dealer to see if they'd offer me the new software but thinking it might be better to have the CE light tell me when it needs cleaning. Next step may be a catch can setup.... Just has to be oem looking 😞

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

^^ check out the little bit of new information on this thread: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5626102-Picking-your-brain-again-vortexers-09-Rabbit-P0106-P2178-P2188/page4

essentially adding the pcv hose cleaning to the list of things to clean.


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## VR (Jul 2, 2001)

le0n said:


> ^^ check out the little bit of new information on this thread: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5626102-Picking-your-brain-again-vortexers-09-Rabbit-P0106-P2178-P2188/page4
> 
> essentially adding the pcv hose cleaning to the list of things to clean.


I did see that one also, thank you! Hopefully I stay CE light free but that will be on my list for the next cleaning if not. 

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## gti rt (Dec 14, 2008)

I'm getting this dtc on my 2012 2.5 jetta as well. I have cleaned the sensor once and the light stayed off for a few thousand miles. The light is back on again with the same dtc. I was wondering if adding a catch can would solve the issue? I see that BFI makes a kit for the 2.5 but it seems a bit pricey. I know there are universal ones out there but where would I get the connectors to fit the intake manifold and valve cover? Has anyone added a universal one and had success? Any help would be great!


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

^^ check out this catch can install thread: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7958962-2012-Golf-2-5L-Catch-Can-Install-Pics

unfortunately, he was still getting the code after the catch can setup.

i'm still waiting to see his next update though.


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## sleepawakemolly (1 mo ago)

edb4 said:


> Thanks, hopefully your data will be of use, but from what I recall, you're running a flashed ECU with multiple mods. If I'm lucky, your sensor values will be within similar range for comparison. I can't think of anything that I could be missing except for a crack in the hose in a place I couldn't see or spray carb cleaner at. I'm pretty damn sure that the intake is not the issue here, since the problem doesn't resolve when the stock airbox is on the car. And I also believe it is extremely unlikely that there is some sort of permanent damage elsewhere in the engine due to the use of the CAI. An above poster says that it may be the crankcase breather, and I suppose it is plausible. However, I think I'd like to exhaust all other options before attempting to remove the valve cover for some inspection. This, along with a faulty ECU and a faulty/dirty MAP (since sensor readings _appear_ to be normal) are at the bottom of my list of "possible culprits." Nevertheless, I'll inspect the MAP again today for signs of oil. I'm thinking it'd be pretty tough to clog that thing up with oil due to it's design and orientation, but you never know. As far as checking inside the sensor protrusion on the MAP, I'm guessing it is wise to just gently swab a Q-tip inside, without prodding deep enough to touch the actual sensor? I'm not sure as to how the inner workings of the MAP are, but stabbing at it definitely seems like something not to do. (Also, wish I could afford to just take it in to a pro!)


 Sooooo ummm can one of you boys tell me what to do for this situation but speak to me like I'm an idiot, please? I've been a finance manager for 22 years in the auto industry, I drive an auto, I finance auto's, I know my auto it doing all of this, but I don't know s**t about fixing auto's. You silly boys are talking gibberish as I'm reading. Just spit it out. Step 1....step 2...and so on. Dummy it down for me but not so "dummy" as to become too dummy.


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