# Sticky  16v Digfant II FAQ



## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

*==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +==*

Since I have had good luck with my swap except for a few minor bugs I thought I would spend some time and do a writeup on the subject.
Swap Motor = 2.0 16v Engine Code 9A Passat Motor.









Older Pic that is missing the new intake pipe but good enough. The pipe on there is the plastic 16v stock pipe cut down.
8v parts needed from old motor.
Fuel Injector's
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Knock Sensor
Blue Coolant Sensor ( this is a topic of debate more info below )
Single Sensor Coolant Flange on side of cylinder head
8v Throttle Body
8v Coil
8v Fan After Run Switch
Digi2 Airbox 
Vanestyle Air Meter (VAM) (on airbox)
Airbox to Throttle Body Tube
Idle Stabilizer Valve (ISV)
8v Tranny (optional see below)
8v Lower Radiator Hose
8v Heater Core Hoses
All 8v Pulley's
Digi2 Injector Cups 
Keep all of the 8v hoses and various bits until your done cause they come in handy for custom stuff.

16v Parts to keep
16v Motor Complete
16v Tranny (optional see below)
16v Alternator
16v Rubber Throttle Body Elbow
16v Brake Booster Vac Hose
16v Throttle Cable (see below)
16v Distributor
16v Plug Wires
16v Upper Radiator Hose
16v Coolant Pipe
16v Sensor's (keep them all for now)
16v Oil Cooler and Filter Flange
16v Exhaust Manifold and Gasket's
Keep all of your 16v Hoses and bits for now too cause you never know.

Things You Have to Buy
The Bentley Manual (optional but highly recommended)
Fuel Rail (Ross or BBM or Homemade whichever works for you)
Fuel Pressure Regulator Mount (usually you can order it with your rail or use an aftermarket regulator)

Replace all non reusable stretch bolts (refer to Bentley)
Clutch Pressure Plate Bolts
Flywheel Bolts
Crank Pulley Bolt (if removing Pulley)
CV Joint Bolts
Cylinder Head Bolts
Connecting Rod Bolts

Things I Recommend You Replace or Buy 
Spark Plugs
Plug Wires
Dist. Cap and Rotor
Timing Belt
Timing Belt Tensioner
Sensors (see below) Coolant Temp Sensor, Oil Pressure Sensors
Water Pump
Thermostat
Vacuum Hoses
V-Belts
Fuel Filter
Air Filter
Oil Filter
Oil
Fuel Hoses
Injector O-rings
Motor Mounts (which ones you use depends on which brackets you keep, see below)
Clutch Disc
Change Tranny Fluid
New Ground Wires
New Power Wires
O2 Sensor (8v)
Every shifter bushing
Air Fuel gauge
CV Joint Gaskets
CV Joint Grease
Front Subframe Bushings
Steering Rack Bushing
Copper Exhaust Manifold and Cat. Nuts
Magnetic Oil Drain Plug
Oil Drain Plug Seal's
Oil Pump
Digifast Chip from VW_Pilot on the tex

Special Tools
Clutch Disc Centering Tool
Shift Gate Alignment Tool (or print out its picture and make a cardboard one.








8mm 12 Point wrench for CV joints
12 Point Metric Sockets for clutch pressure plate bolts
Timing Belt Tensioner Tool (can use snap ring pliers)
17mm Hex Tool for Tranny Drain Plug 
OK just some basic stuff that I think you should do during this swap.
Label all of your electrical connections and where they connect to before you unplug them.
If you do not have the Bentley then draw diagrams of vacuum lines and other hoses.
Replace EVERY corroded connector with a new one or clean them up shiny.
Keep your eyes open for other problems and fix them now while the engine bay is empty and easy to work on.
Shifter bushings replace them all while you can they make a huge difference.
The Info

*Tranny*
Depending on your situation you can keep the 8 valve tranny or use the 16v tranny but some of the parts are not compatable. If you Notice any leaking gaskets or seals replace them now while it is easy. You may want to consider doing the Throw out bearing, clutch center plate and retaining ring. If you switch to a 16v Hydro tranny the process is beyond the scope of this write up please refer to the tranny forum for more help
If you are keeping your 8v tranny then you need.
8v Front Motor Mount Bracket
8v Starter
8v Flywheel 
8v Tranny Tin/Shields
8v Clutch Disc
16v Pressure Plate 

*Fuel*
I recomend an air fuel gauge to keep track of the new motor since Digi2 was never meant to run this motor you wouldn't want to ruin it. A new o2 sensor will decrease the chance of this as well as a Digifast chip from VW_Pilot on the tex. 
You have to get a fuel rail cause the 8v one will not work. Be sure to replace Injector' O-rings and if you can swing it injector's. Sometimes the studs that hold the upper and lower manifold together stick out a little and interfere with fuel rails so you should grind them down.
Good time to get new fuel lines while you are at it. The BLUE fuel hardline is the return and should go to the FPR.
I am running the stock fuel pressure regulator and it is fine. Definitly replace your fuel filter cause it is cheap.
See pic above for fuel rail and lines.









Pic of the FPR 

*Throttle Body*
The idle and wide open throttle switches on the 16v TB do not plug into the 8v harness without modification.
The 16v throttle body that I had came with the restrictor plate on the butterfly and the vacuum connections were not ideal. There was also no idle adjust screw so I went with the 8v.
When using the 8v TB however you have to modify the throttle cable by cutting it shorter and using a wire nut on it, also a piece of rubber hose over it will decrease chafing on the throttle lever. 
See the pic below of my intake tube for the wire nut on the throttle cable.

*Vacuum Hoses *
Definitly replace all of your vac hoses no point in not doing it now it will only give you trouble later. On the 8v TB there are 2 small ports on front and one on back. The front right port goes to FPR and splits off to the airbox as well. The front left goes to the EVAP Valve and so does the rear one. Refer to the Bentley for specifics.
I replaced the 8v Brake booster hose which runs from the intake mani to the booster in favor of the 16v cause it fit better.

Pic of brake booster vac hose from Passat








*Intake*
You will have to rig something for your intake tube. You can use the 8v rubber one but the fit is not ideal. I used the 16v rubber elbow and a piece of aluminum tube and a silicon turbo style boot to fabricate my own. The aluminum tube came from a turbo volvo for 5 $ I just cut it at one of the bends to give it the correct shape.
Depending on how you run your ISV hoses you may need a port on it but I ran my ISV to the large TB port with a piece of old coolant hose.

Pic of my new intake tube.









*ISV* 
As far as I know the 16v and 8v ISV's are not compatable but you can simply swap one for the other and put the 8v one in the stock 16v location and use the same hoses. If I remember right one the hoses was a little big so I had to tighten the hose clamp really good but nothing major.
Here is a pic









This is the hose I used to connect the ISV to the TB, I used the stock 16v plastic pipe and the hose is an old coolant reservoir hose.









*Cold Start Injector*
I removed mine completely and threaded a large bolt into the hole with some sealant. A block off plate would work too or you could even just leave it there unplugged.
See pic of ISV for the bolt in the cold start injector hole
*Hoses*
I used the 8v lower radiator hose with the 16v upper radiator hose and a Passat 16v coolant reservoir hose cause the 8v and 16v hoses were not long enough. I think the metal coolant pipe from the Passat is slightly different which is why. The rest of the hoses were 16v hoses except for the heater core hoses which were from the 8v however I had to cut the hose that goes into the side of the 16v head cause it was too long so maybe the 16v heater core hoses would have worked better.
My crank case breather hose I decided to not reconnect to the intake stream cause I didn't want all that carbon build up in my freshly rebuilt motor so I put a minifilter on the end and capped off the vac lines from the manifold. I don't have much blowby in the new motor so oil spatter out the end of the filter is not a problem however I think there are some advantages in horse power when you create a vacuum in the crankcase so I am researching that further.

You can see the K&N minifilter on my breather hose under the FPR pic above. UPDATE: This etup has proven to be messy even with my windage tray I still get oil vapor. I reccomend either a catch can or piping the crankcase vent hose back into the intake system.

*Sensor's*
There has been some debate over whether or not to use the stock Digi2 CTS vs. stock 16v CTS and I have run some tests to see for myself. According to the Bentley they are electrically compatable. I took both sensor's and heated them up in water with a thermometer and took readings off both. They gave the same readings as predicted. However if you wish to use the DIgi2 sensor you will have to use the single sensor coolant flange off the side of the 8v head and put it on the 16v head. Mine fit with no modification but I do not have the 16v thermotime switch installed so the hole is plugged and I had plenty of room for the flange.
I also have the stock 16v CTS installed and when I take reading off of them while they are both in the car I get slightly different readings from one to the other which I attribute to there locations. The difference is not substantial and they both fall within the Bentley's specs so It is really up to you but they are compatable.
The Temp sender for the temp gauge on the dash you should use the 16v one and just cut the digi2 connector off and use a spade terminal. The brown wire is ground so connect the other one or test for voltage when the key is on and use that one.
Replace your oil pressure switches cause they are cheap insurance but I recommend moving the low pressure switch to the back of the cylinder head where the oil temp sender is located and moving the temp sender to the oil filter flange. The head will lose oil pressure earlier which is why I moved it.
The radiator fan after run switch is located on a bracket on the back of the 8v valve cover just remove it and put it on the 16v vallve cover above the exhaust manifold.

All the sensor locations including the digi2 single sensor coolant flange.









Radiator fan after run switch mounted above header or exhaust manifold.








*Ground Wires*
Digi2 is really sensitive to bad grounds so replace all your ground wires and clean up or replace connectors. You should have grounds running from battery to body and then to tranny. I ran one from tranny to cyclinder head as well. There is also a ground from the coil bracket to the valve cover.

*O2 Sensor*
Digi2 is also sensitive to a failing o2 sensor so replace it atleast every 60k miles. Alot of Digi2 problems can be fixed by replacing the o2 sensor.

*Distributer*
Pretty much plug and play, the Digi2 connector plugs right in. I had an issue with a bad Hall sender when I originally did my swap but I think it was just bad so I swapped in the Hall sender from my 8v Dist. . It is possible that this has to be done on all of them cause I have heard other people having to do the same thing but I don't have any hard evidence to back it up.

*Fuel Injector Harness*
The old harness is not long enough to reach around to the front of the 16v so I soldered ina couple short length's of wire to make it reach. Be sure your connections are waterproof and don't bother with butt connector's cause this is not the place for them. If you do not know how to solder you can buy no crimp butt conector's that solder the wires for you with the help of a lighter. NAPA carries them but so do other auto parts stores. 
I chose to keep the plastic loom that covers the injector wires, I split it open and drilled a couple holes through one half of it that would line up with the holes in the bottom of my Ross Fuel Rail and mounted directly to the rail. Looks perfectly factory. Putting the connector's one the injector's can be a real bitch no matter how you do it so be patient.
Here is a pic of how I mounted the injector harness loom to my Ross rail.










*Exhaust*
The 16v and 8v exhaust manifolds are not compatable, the Passat 16v manifold is different from the GTI 16v manifold as well. The dual downpipe from the GTI 16v is the same as the dual downpipe from the GTI 8v however the Passat 16v dual downpipe is not the same. 
According to a few other people here on the tex they have used the Passat manifold and downpipe without any problems.
Another option of course is to use a header which should be for a GTI 16v.
Everything else after the Manifold/Downpipe can be reused from the 8v.

*Alternator*
16v and 8v alternator's are not compatable because the mounting brackets are different. Use the 16v one.

*Pulley's*
Depending on whether or not you have AC determines which pulley set you use. They are completely different. To correctly remove AC you must change the small pulley on the crank, the waterpump pulley, and the alternator pulley and if I remember correctly the power steering pulley as well. The only one that stays the same is the large crank pulley. It is possible to make things work and many people have done it but since my 16v originally came with no AC I had to change them all in order to add it. 

*Motor Mounts*
The motor mounts should all be replaced at this point since the 16v is a more powerful motor any questionable mount from the old 8v will be no good when the 16v starts pulling on it. Which mounts you use depends on the brackets you have. There are hydraulic front and rear mounts or solid mounts and they have different brackets so make sure you order the correct ones.

*Tuning*
Tuning is all done to the Digi2 specs so follow the procedure in the Bentley. The 16v does seem to like a slightly higher idle though.
I have been experimenting with tuning the VAM spring but small adjustments really don't seem to make a difference. I am not sure how the idle mixture is or whether it should be asdjusted since I do not have access to smog equipment.

That is all I can think of for the moment but I will be updating pictures soon as I take them. 
http://www.dubbase.2ya.com My Site
Please add anything I have missed.








**UPDATE** 9/3/2008
I am sad to say that I will be moving away from the mkII world. My GTI has reached the end of its life due to rust issues that I simply do not have the time to fix. I have been through a lot with my GTI including a 16v engine build this Digi2 Swap and basically rebuilding the entire car over the course of the last 8 years. I am sad to see it go but I am itching to spend time restoring my 77 Westy that has been in storage for the past 6 years. In order to keep my spirits up during the daily commute I have also purchased myself a little known car called an .:R32 so don't feel too bad for me........








Pic of the ride at the height of its glory.......








I will keep up this FAQ and its pictures as long as I can but if any Vortex admin is willing to take over the maintenance of this FAQ please let me know. 
Before I go I just have one last little piece of technical info regarding this swap that I thought would help everyone out in their efforts to better tune their Digi2 swaps....

==== HOW TO INSTALL AN INNOVATE LC1 WIDEBAND O2 SENSOR AND CONTROL YOUR FUELING ==== 
I exceeded the 20000 character post limit so follow the link and scroll down to the instructions.


7/11/2020 I've had many people request the pictures from this swap since my old web hosting shutdown and the pictures went away. I swore that I .pdf'd the whole thread at one point but cannot find it at the moment. I was able to find an old archived version though from 2015. Since it was so long ago I do not recall if this was all the pictures but I hope it helps:

2013: https://web.archive.org/web/2013050...com/showthread.php?1648969-16v-Digfant-II-FAQ

2015: https://web.archive.org/web/2015100...com/showthread.php?1648969-16v-Digfant-II-FAQ


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## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

Dude that pretty much sums it up. At least for a MKII. Great Job!!!
For a MKI there are a few extra things to add to that. Yes, some MkI's were digi2. Mine for instance. 1993 VW rabbit Cabriolet.
- Re-use all MKI mounts. They will all work.
- Must use scirocco 16v manifold and downpipe. Passat or MKII manifold/downpipe will not fit.
- It is easier to use scirocco upper intake manifold, as the intake hose and air box can remain on the driver side. However, a passat or MKII upper manifold will work, you just need to make some room on the passenger side.

That is all I can think of that is different for a MKI right now. But I'm going to keep thinking.








Pics of my digi2 16v MKI swap


_Modified by cdn20VALVE at 12:54 AM 10-9-2004_


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## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

can you explain (or even take some pics







) of that peice that blocks off the thermotime sensor on the side of your head. my new motor originally came with cis-e and ive had a couple people tell me to track down this elusive block off or plug for the thermotime but it seems its impossible to find. was there just no hole tapped in your head, or was there an actual threaded plug in there?


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## GTOBB (Dec 30, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

some pics from poland , and polish faq
http://vwgolf.pl/forum/viewtopic.php?t=672


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## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (ValveCoverGasket)*

There was an actual threaded plug in the hole for the thermo time switch I believe it was plugged because the Passat had no AC. If I remember correctly the hole is just an M10 I am sure you could use some thread sealer and a bolt or find a metric alan plug.


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## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

rad thanks for the help http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

awesome, thanks again







ill see if i can find one of those allen bolts that has threads all the way up the sides.


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## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (ValveCoverGasket)*

yup. thats pretty much it! wow, and after months of bashing my head against my jetta.......... (me and my mechanic), great write up!


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## needsomthincheap (Feb 3, 2004)

nice swap i have had the same swap completed for about 15,000kms now with no problems, looks and runs mint in an mk2. any questions just ask.


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## 4valvemk2 (Feb 14, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Yellow Snow)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 4valvemk2 at 6:07 PM 10-22-2004_


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## theonlygod11202 (May 18, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

would this swap be similar to swaping an 1.8 16v into and 1986 gti?if no the same what all do i need and if u can help me with anyother info let me know ....my email doesnt work so just post somthing after this...


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## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (theonlygod11202)*

Ok so now that we have a Digi 2 FAQ. Let's talk modifying. 
My car runs rich low rpm, and lean high rpm. Typical Digi2. So how do I go about fixing this. Other than going standalone. 
I had my car on a 40,000.00$$ diagnostic machine at my tech school yesterday, and the air fuel ratio at idle was perfect at 14.8:1.


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## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (cdn20VALVE)*

the easiest is to use a relay triggered by the WOT that takes the coolant sensor wiring through a resistor - resulting in a richer fuel mixture.


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## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*

Richer is good, but it's already too rich at low rpm.


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## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (cdn20VALVE)*

what I described is the enrichment device - used ONLY at WOT - at which point the readings stated were lean - it does nothing at idle....


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## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*

I have never heard of this enrichment device for Digi 2, basically what you are saying is to use a 87/87a relay and have it connected to the WOT throttle switch. When WOT is not active the CTS signal is normal and when WOT is activated the CTS signal is rerouted through a resistor to trick the ECU into thinking the engine is colder than it is..?
What do you do with the original WOT wiring..? it stays connected I would assume?
Interesting idea have you tried it..? 
I have been toying with the idea of connecting some of the Digi2 sensors to variable resistance POT's in order to tune it better which is similar but I have not tried it yet so no results to report.

Another trick which is much simpler is to get a big fat O-ring and put it on the lever that actuates the WOT switch so that it turns it on sooner.


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## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (4valvemk2)*

definitly bump for sticky.
I like how you routed your isv. I had the engine alone with no bits and had to just hack vaccume hosefrom my 8v to my isv. I will be going out to get some stock 16v isv hoses and hooking them up, kudo's on the great work.
Nowon with my problem. my digi2 16v died while i was driving, it was at 3500 rpm and just cut to 0 like i turned the key off. I thought it might be ignition coil . .be we tried a different one and its the same thing. one innitial spark when the key is moved forward and as the car turnes over nothing. Is this normal? I think now the only thing it can be is the dist. which is the used/weakest history part. I will try to change my hall sender form my 8v into it tomorrow. Can you maybe give a breif explanation on how that works? you mentioned you had to do the same. Thanks I'll try to post some pics for you to check out.


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## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (veedubinit)*

I was getting the same thing when I first tried starting my car. It would spark once and then nothing, it was the hall sender. Taking the sender out of the 16v dist. was fairly easy jsut make sure when you put the dist drive gear back on that it is the correct way because it is possible to put it on 180 degrees out.
The 8v hall sensder was a PITA I basically destroyed my 8v dist getting it out. I don't know why but it just didn't want to play nice.
If you end up buying a new hall sender they are all the same for 8v or 16v so you may want to update to a newer one from an aba or something since I think they are like 50$ as opposed to a 16v one which is like 150$ or something crazy.


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## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MBRACKLIFFE* »_I have never heard of this enrichment device for Digi 2, basically what you are saying is to use a 87/87a relay and have it connected to the WOT throttle switch. When WOT is not active the CTS signal is normal and when WOT is activated the CTS signal is rerouted through a resistor to trick the ECU into thinking the engine is colder than it is..?
What do you do with the original WOT wiring..? it stays connected I would assume?
Interesting idea have you tried it..? 
I have been toying with the idea of connecting some of the Digi2 sensors to variable resistance POT's in order to tune it better which is similar but I have not tried it yet so no results to report.


This the same as the CIS-E enrichment device sold commercially by "namebrand" tuners.....for like $80!
Since the blue temp sensor performs the same function as a CIS-E coolant sensor, an adjustable pot in the WOT position would let you tune how much enrichment. Using a 2 position relay the non-energized position routes the current through the "normal path"
Currently one of my 16v projects is set up for Digi-1, however I have a 90 GLI that I'm looking at converting to Digi-2 using the BMW MAF housing for more flow..


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## needsomthincheap (Feb 3, 2004)

ya ive heard of the BMW MAF, which sounds like a nice mod for us digi 2 guys, what i have done is opened my stock maf up and loosened the spring tension by releasing it 3 clicks makes for better throttle response and runs a little bit richer. but i wanna find a BMW maf setup for increased airflow.


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## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (needsomthincheap)*

ttt
i got an 8v hall sender and its different, the pick up is on the opposite side and it has 4 mounting bolts and a disc on the bottom where the wires are run. Can it still be used?Or will everything be 180 deg off??????










_Modified by veedubinit at 5:06 PM 10-19-2004_


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## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

question. do i need to switch hall senders on my distributor (16v one) with the old one (the 8v one), or is this necessary only if the 16v one is bad? please clarify.


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## needsomthincheap (Feb 3, 2004)

the 16v one works fine but if your 16v one is bad then it is possible to switch in the 8v one, but chances are your 16v one is fine and is compatible, im using it.


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## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +==*

i do think that the BMW MAF upgrade is needed in order to flow enough air for a 16v...
i picked one up recently and am going to see if I can swap guts from my spare Digi-2 MAF over. Maybe I'll try this Digi-2 swap on a future project.
Has anyone compared it to a 2.0-16v CIS-E Motronic running a TT chip? I'm very pleased with the performance that setup has given me.


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## adg44 (Aug 2, 2000)

Many thanks to MBRACKLIFFE for posting this. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
- Anthony


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## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OhioBenz* »_i do think that the BMW MAF upgrade is needed in order to flow enough air for a 16v...
i picked one up recently and am going to see if I can swap guts from my spare Digi-2 MAF over. Maybe I'll try this Digi-2 swap on a future project.
Has anyone compared it to a 2.0-16v CIS-E Motronic running a TT chip? I'm very pleased with the performance that setup has given me.

I'd be curious to know this too. But when I went to the junkyard, I noticed that many v6 car srun the same size VAM as us. And this is on a 2.6L or bigger V6! So if it flows well enough for a V6 it should be more than enough for a 2.0.


_Modified by cdn20VALVE at 5:39 PM 10-22-2004_


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## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (cdn20VALVE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cdn20VALVE* »_ I'd be curious to know this too. But when I went to the junkyard, I noticed that many v6 car srun the same size VAM as us. And this is on a 1.6L or bigger V6! So if it flows well enough for a V6 it should be more than enough for a 2.0.

If I can find it back I'll post the link/data because the stock 16vhead flows more CFM than a ported VR6 head. One of my reasons for not bothering to mess with a VR








here's the link - http://www.porttuning.com/Flow data.htm


_Modified by OhioBenz at 5:15 PM 10-22-2004_


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## 16V VW (Aug 1, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*

I have a few problems that i need help with.
- At startup it dosen't idle unless the gas is held at 3k for 30 seconds.
- Once warmed up, Idle will go up to 3k for 2 seconds then slowly to 1k, then to 3k for a few seconds then down to 1k, it will do it the whole time unless clutch is engauged.
- A more recent problem is coolant is spitting out somewhere around the front of the head "coolant flange, hoses" or something.
- My radiator fan WONT turn on for the life of it, i replaced the radiator sensor.
- Temp gauge dosen't work.
- Oil and Coolant buzzers are going off the walls.
im about ready to blow this car up, i need it for school and i have missed 21 days cause of this piece of crap. save me from blowing it up. please.


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## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (gizmotoy1)*

Idle: Is it adjusted correctly, timing..? ISV working? If yes then have you checked for vacuum leaks..? A vacuum leak can cause this exact thing but so can an incorrectly adjusted idle. The fluctuating sounds like a dirty ISV so start there and clean it with carb cleaner until it shines. With the key in acc. position the ISV should hum and vibrate.
Buzzers and lights : unplug the wires from the sensor's and see if they shut off. Check that they are wired to the correct sensor. 

Coolant temp guage: there should be two wires from the Digi2 wiring harness, if you are using the stock 16v sensor you only need one. Brown is usually the ground wire so use the other one for the sensor. or ground one wire at a time and whichever wire makes the temp guage go to full hot is the one you want to use.
Radiator fan: Do you know the motor works..? if not unplug the fan and use jumper wires from the batt to see if it works. If it is working then check the wiring for anything obvious. After that I would refer to the wiring diagram and start testing with a multimeter.


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## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

yeah digital multimeter and a Bentley is usually where you end up at.
use the DMM to test which wire for the sensor is the ground (with the key off)....it should have continuity to any ground point on the chassis.
pls remember that Digi does not like sparks, loose grounds etc.... they fry easily!


----------



## 16V VW (Aug 1, 2004)

Well heres a good story that is good/bad. Today I got home from school and my friend was driving my jetta and i was driving his, anyway, i was outside fixin some crap on it and the cop pulls up and says, IM GOING TO IMPOUND YOUR CAR RIGHT NOW!!! YOUR AN IDIOT, {MIND YOU THIS IS THE 5TH TIME HE HAS PULLED ME "MY FRIEND OVER"} FOR NO REASON!!! then he says, "speeding in a school zone! "it was 4:30 LOL" you were like a bat out of hell "all my friend driving", then says, " your going to have citations in the mail, bla blah bla, then he gets in his car and pulls upto me after i walk over to my friend and says, " just busting your balls, and peels out and drives away."
Nextime im going to have a box of donuts in my car.








but i left and went with some girls and other of that good stuff, so ill check the car out tomorrow.
True story by the way.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (gizmotoy1)*

Ok all you digi 2 knowledgable peeps. I have a problem. 
I put my digi2 setup in a while ago and i was running a copper t from the main vaccume on the back of the intake manafold. Now i have been having problems with it trying to compensate and stall out and i figured it was bad vaccume. 
Today i tried to re-route the ISV vaccume more stock ish, where i had a piece of metal blocking the lower intake for the 5th injector i took it off and ran the isv there and form the larger vaccume port on the 8v throttle body. 
When I did this my idle would sit at like 1300rpm







so we figured it was a leak somewhere. So i pressureized the system and came up with absolutly nothing .. it was working great. So why is my idle messed up? I then decided to tear out everything and plug all the vaccume ports. i adjusted the idle manually witht he screw and wouldnt you knwo it .. . it works fine. WHAT IS GOING ON? on the 8v if you did that it would crap out in like 3 seconds.






















Also. . my downpipe is sitting on my swap bar making a really bad vibration and noise. should i just rip out the sway bar??? thanks in advance guys


_Modified by veedubinit at 4:41 AM 10-27-2004_


----------



## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

Did you try readjusting your idle when it was idling at 1300 ? If your idle was holding steady at 1300 it sounds like everything was working just needed readjustment.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (MBRACKLIFFE)*

nope we tried that .. it was fully closed ont he adjustment side







is it just me or is this weird???? i mean . .does the isv effect fuel curves? I'm sure with it unplugged it just puts the computer to a default .. .but should i just leave it all ripped out? 
also when it was hooked up it was hickuping and kinda miss firing a bit sometimes. . . and when it was all hooked up it would surge to 1500, then 500, then 2000 then 250 then 2500 or 3000 then stall. But if you helped it with a gas tap when its on its way down it will fix itself and idle.

_Modified by veedubinit at 5:14 AM 10-27-2004_


_Modified by veedubinit at 5:18 AM 10-27-2004_


----------



## mechanixfetch (Jul 19, 2004)

The 9A from a 91 GTI would work the same right?


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (mechanixfetch)*

Yes. I am using a transmition form my 1.8 8v and it is not adequite what-so-ever. I will be getting a replacement. if you have the tranny from that gti it would be far better.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (mechanixfetch)*

an 09A has pretty much the same ratios as an 02Y - input shaft size/diff clutch disk needed.
i have an 09A in my 90 GLI and can't tell any difference! There's a lot of diff 8v trannies out there - if you get an ACH or something like that you got an "econobox" with long ratios


----------



## 89JettaCoupe (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

Has anybody done this swap with a 1.8L 16V yet?


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (89JettaCoupe)*

I will work the same way. The mass air flow sensor just reads how much air is coming in and compensates with fuel. The computer knows nothing.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (veedubinit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *veedubinit* »_I will work the same way. The mass air flow sensor just reads how much air is coming in and compensates with fuel. The computer knows nothing.

That's not quite accurate - the ECU is programmed for a specific end use. The 1.8-8v is an altogether different setup so some adjustments to the MAF may be required to get proper AF ratios. Best to use an AF meter/gauge.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OhioBenz* »_
That's not quite accurate - the ECU is programmed for a specific end use. The 1.8-8v is an altogether different setup so some adjustments to the MAF may be required to get proper AF ratios. Best to use an AF meter/gauge.

Actually it will. I dont know if you've ever torn apart a MAF sensor, but its a flapper door with a metal arm connected to it telling the CPU how much air is going in. With my 2.0 16v we could never get that meter to its highest point. with a 1.8 16v being smaller it would have even less trouble keeping up. and i dont have an air/fuel gauge but a buddy of mine told me when he checked his it didnt run lean at all even top end. I'm sure a juicer set of injectors wouldnt hurt but thats why i say, you could toss almost any 4banger engine into a digi 2 setup and it would most likly work. .. maybe not perfect. .or good for that matter. . .but i bet it would run
edit: and a chip to change fuel curves helps to i would imagine .. i still plan on doing that too.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

the MAF is just one component tho..... The ECU takes data from a number of items and the VW engineers spent countless hours setting up program maps that work the best with the engine it was designed for in a multitude of circumstances. A fuel/ignition map is a complex grid of data which at best even for a stock engine is a compromise - toss in variables which were never considered during the ECU mapping such as totally different flow patterns and combustion swirl etc resulting from a 16v compared to an 8v head and you are guaranteed not to have an optimum performing engine.
Will it run better than CIS-E? possibly, is it an improvement - I'd have to see some dyno maps to be completely convinced.
If Digi-2 was the answer then there wouldn't be a demand for Digi-1 conversions nor a market for Digi-1 chips if even that ECU was perfectly programmed.


----------



## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

For what it is worth I ran my stock 16v digiII on a 50,000$ lab and scope testing machine at my technical school. I was curious to see what I would find.
Results:
Fluctuation between 14.8 and 15.2 air fuel ratio

Conclusion:
Pretty damn close to what it should be. 14.7. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (cdn20VALVE)*

she runs!!!!!!!!!! digi216v project is running (mandatory pics will come very soon). but one last thing. what did yall do about the temp sensor plug (the female portion). since the 8v and 16v plugs go into different places, where does this one go? (yes i know pics would be great but i ran outa film takin other pics for yall







). i was told that some a3's had a built-in temp plug on the upper radiator hose, and other 16vs had em in other places. for this digi2 app, what should i do for this one plug???????


----------



## mrkrad (Nov 9, 2000)

*Re: (rychas1)*


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (mrkrad)*

no, i have that on my car. maybe im not explaining the proper sensor. all i know is that there is a plug left with no where to go. i was told that this plug goes into the upper radiator hose, but thats all i know.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (rychas1)*

the sensor you speak of is your black connector coolant sensor. usually on an 8v the blue and black coolant sensors hand out on the front of the head on the flang for the man coolant line. You should have your blue sensor on the side of the head like the pic above, as for the black which your asking about. . there is a pin sensor on the back of the head. . .. kinda. . look at where you mounted your blue one .. then lean over and look behing. . you cant miss it. . its kinda high on the head. thats your signal, it sends the same coolant numbers as the one on your 8v, and it control your gauge in the cluster. Ground out the ground wire and hook the other up to that and your laughin http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

thats the one. ill take a look at it. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 89JettaCoupe (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (rychas1)*

The engine I'm looking at swapping in doenst have power steering, but I do currently have it on my 8V, can I use the 8V power steering pump on the 16V block?


----------



## gli4life (Feb 22, 2002)

*Re: (89JettaCoupe)*

i got my 88 coupe running the other day useing a complete harness out of a 91 carat. still needs some fine tuning. i have the bmw maf but haven't hooked it up yet, i'm waiting to make a short runner witha bigger tb of some sort and bigger injectors. car seems to run good, haven't driven it yet, i'm not running the isv so it takes a min for it to warm up and like running, mind you i'v only set the timing by ear so far but it does have some hesitation when reving, it you ease into it its alright and the warmer it is the better. over all i'm pretty happy with the swap. as long as it goes better then my last nightmare with obd I.


----------



## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (89JettaCoupe)*


_Quote, originally posted by *89JettaCoupe* »_The engine I'm looking at swapping in doenst have power steering, but I do currently have it on my 8V, can I use the 8V power steering pump on the 16V block?

I'm pretty sure you can re-use all your 8v p/s stuff. I will be doing this in the spring time as well on my 16v.


----------



## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

*Re: (cdn20VALVE)*

Yeah all of the power steering brackets and such are interchangeable. Everything should bolt right up just make sure the pulley lines up correctly with you other pulley's. It should anyways but just to be safe.


----------



## MotorwerksGti (Oct 4, 2004)

*Re: (MBRACKLIFFE)*

es the 16v stock coolant temp sensor stay in and unplugged or does it stay in and get plugged in. also i have a fuel rail but no fpr. where should i pick one up that is external from the fuel rail? converting from 89 cise 16v so i have to change the whole wiring harness in the car right?


----------



## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

*Re: (MotorwerksGti)*

You can reuse the stock 16v CTS it is electronically compatible with the digi2 sensor however you should still make sure it is in good working order.
It is popular to swap in the single sensor digi2 flange and use the stock digi2 sensor but I have run my car off both and have found no difference.
Check JEG's or summit racing for external FPR's I am sure there are other places that carry them but I know they do.
You will have to swap the entire digi2 harness into your car which I have not done so I can not answer specifics.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (MotorwerksGti)*

1) if its an 89 GLI it is alread CE-2 so a digi harness is plug-n-play
2) Summit Racing Aeromotive 1000 rrfpr is only $131 - who knows you might take the next step & go Digi-1 and Boost


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

as i said b4, she runs!!! i will post pics up as soon as i develop them, but i figured id give some feedback asap. if i sound retarded, its cause im so happy
-first off, this thing sounds mean, has a very deep growl like its pissed
-yes.. its a 3 speed auto, but when u drive it, the pickup is really nice, so u dont really think about it. for example to get from 55-70, my tach stayed just around 2700 rpm, like it was stuck. once i hit 70+, the tach finally reach 3000. o btw, this was by 'accident' on a city street, so i have no real performance feedback yet. i honestly didnt know i was going that fast?
-my mechanic said when he drove it this morning, he hit 7000k, and it held there for a while before it shifted. i said, dood, rev limiter is like 6200? on digi2. he swore up and down that the tach hit 7000k, without hitting limiter. as i am scared to test this myself, i think either of my chips should really set this thing off! (comments on this please, as what the heck will the chips do now if the revs already go to 7000k?) 
-need to get a TT or freer-flowing exhaust. the 8v exhaust just feels like im holding back 7hp or so (maybe a stock vr6 muffler will help too)
-im so happy that my car is finally done. praise God!
any questions, hit me up. pics soon!


----------



## mrkrad (Nov 9, 2000)

*Re: (rychas1)*

you built that auto? i'd love to see a 2.0 16V t3/t4e with a 50 shot on a 3 speed built with a stall








would be evil indeed.
werd atl


----------



## MotorwerksGti (Oct 4, 2004)

*Re: (MBRACKLIFFE)*

so basically find the same style plug that i used in the thermoswitch for that cts or just leave it therre chillin. i have 70 percent of the swap done with all my parts in my hands excpet for the fpr. im gonna go down to sk speed asap and pick up a fpr. is it safe to use rubber fuel line with hose clamps as long as all the connections are deep enough? what should the fuel pressure be set at? somewhere around 30-35psi im guessing? ill let u know how it turns out. thanks alot for making this whole process e-a-s-y.


----------



## mrkrad (Nov 9, 2000)

*Re: (MotorwerksGti)*

use fuel injection line of course, fuel line can't sustain the high pressure. same with the clamps never use standard clamps on fuel injection line, it will bite into the line


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (mrkrad)*

i was waiting for feedback from yall on how the hell my tach hit 7000 without hitting rev limiter and cutting out? just curious not only how that happened, but will my chips (digifast or sns) do any more good? weird


----------



## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

*Re: (rychas1)*

In my experience the REV limiter is not set in stone, It may be set at 6200 but not actually kick in until 6400 or 6500. My car pulls up to 6800 before it kicks in however I believe my Tach is slightly inaccurate as well. In general tach's tend not be perfectly accurate.
You can always check your tach against a Tach/Dwell meter to see how accurate it is.


----------



## mxman (Jul 31, 2003)

*Re: (MBRACKLIFFE)*

You folks have a ton of problems with your swaps, jesus, i dropped my engine in, fabbed the intake tube for hte vam, lengthened my harness for the fuel injectors, replaced the ecu i fried... used a blue coolant temp sensor in a flange i bought from the dealer, plugged my gauge for the dash into the stock 16v cts... plugged off half the connectors for vacuum, i took the stock 16v throttle body connector off my motronic harness, made sure the idle and WOT switches grounded on idle and WOT to their respective wires, and had infinite ohms when 1-99% throttle... other thant aht really its such an easy swap and i did it in like 8 hours lol the alternator swap was harder than the engien swap for me... my car idles at 950 rpm, sometimes at 1100 (no isv) ...hits fuel cutoff at about 6750 (Stock) i have a digifast chip... oh ya i also tossed the cold start injector and glued a peice of tin over the hole, i still have the connector for the ISV incase i want to hook it up... so far i havent had troubles starting cold, even with NO O2 sensor... it chugs a bit on start up blub blub blub...missing because its rich then its fine... i have the hose that goes to the airbox going to my beer can to catch blowby and the stock hose is going to the intake... really you can do this swap not hook up the o2 sensor, just make sure the vam and CTS are plugged in...or it wont start
maybe these pics will help



































_Modified by mxman at 10:15 PM 11-6-2004_


----------



## redGTInj (Jul 6, 2003)

*Re: (mxman)*

as some one said before...
ANYONE here do the DIGI 2 swap into a *CE1*
I want to do it...but wiring is not my cup of tea....
any pointers??


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (redGTInj)*

lot of comment has been made about digifast chips on digi2-8vs and digi2-16vs. well, i just wanted to comment how it works on my oddball... the digi2 16v auto! idle is very stable, not so bouncy. 1st gear revs higher without really trying, but still sux rocks. 2nd gear is much better, throttle opens up nicely. and 3rd gear...







well, not bragging, but in the comment made by my passenger (has a digi2 16v cabrio)'this thing feels like turbo!' not my words at all. digifast! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
netx week, sns! he liked digifast so much, he wants to buy it if my sns gimme me greater pleasure. stay tuned til then. ok sam, this is for u!


----------



## mxman (Jul 31, 2003)

*Re: (rychas1)*

honestly unless you have cams and alot of mods a chip wont do anything really ...it will just igonre some sensors no doubt and run like it should stock, i put my chip in, it didnt really do much at all.... 
it made the rev limiter LOWER...haha


----------



## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (mxman)*

Digi2 16v idle speed?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (cdn20VALVE)*

not sure if u mean me or mxman, but its about 950-999ish. b4 chip, it was about 1000 even and a lil bouncy (very little). now, no bounce. very smooth http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (rychas1)*

No I meant all of us in general. What are our idle speeds.
Mine is about 1050. Below that, it does not run well. 
Stock 16v 2.0L digi2.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (rychas1)*

i take that back about my 1st gear sucking rocks. my dumb ass didnt push the pedal far enuf to engage WOT. did this today







holy macaroni! and yes 93 octane does make a huge difference http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## BOOFWAH (May 11, 2001)

*Re: (rychas1)*

For those who have, or are, swapping into a cabriolet. What, or where, are you doing with the oil pressure gauge sender? I like being able to read my oil pressure.


----------



## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (BOOFWAH)*

oil pressure sender is in the back of the 16v head. I like to know what the pressure is in the head, rather than the oil flange anyways.


----------



## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

*Re: (cdn20VALVE)*

This is a good point made by cdn20valve so I thought I would elaborate further.
If you are using an oil pressure guage your best bet is to mount the sensor in the head since this will be the first place that signs of an oil pressure problem will surface.
If you are relying on the oil pressure warning light on the dash than I suggest moving your low oil pressure switch which is normally mounted on the oil filter flange up to the head so you will have more time to pull over and shut the car off.
I think there is a sensor that can function for both setups at the same time as well and this of course should be mounted in the head.
also of note is that sometimes an oil temp sensor is mounted in the head and the low pressure sensor is mounted on the flange so it would be a good idea to switch them.


----------



## BOOFWAH (May 11, 2001)

*Re: (cdn20VALVE)*

So IIRC there are two, high and low, oil pressure switches (for the dash light and wonderful sounding buzzer), an oil pressure sender (for the gauge), and oil temp sender (for the gauge) that have to be carried over from my 2H motor to the 9A. The oil pressure gauge sender is large and is in the side of the 2H head. Am I going to be sacrificing a feature here such as oil temp or gauge pressure to keep the buzzer and warning light from flashing? If a cabby owner could be specific about where all these little bits go I would appreciate it.

















_Modified by BOOFWAH at 8:21 AM 11-10-2004_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (BOOFWAH)*

i just noticed something very odd. my gas mileage sux stinkin rocks! i mean, i burned a quarter tank in 50 miles? and no, i was not racing nor driving fast. i know manuals get better mileage than autos, but my god. my o2 sensor is good as far as i know, so what else could it be. or am i just SOL (trading speed for economy)?







wouldnt my digi2 still gimme good mileage?


----------



## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (rychas1)*

Yes. The biggest culprit for gas mileage depreciation on digi2 would be and is the 02 sensor. 
Test it out, and if it is not per specs replace it.


----------



## CharlieBaltimore (Nov 13, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

Hey this is a great thread very helpfull I'm doing a swap 1.8l 16v into a 8v 89 GL just got the 16v from a friend with the tranny and i was wondering if anyonehad (I have an 89 gl swapping 85 GLI 16v) 

done the 16v 1.8l swap?
had any advice on swaping trannys?
know any good threads that had advice or info on tranny swaps (from 8v tranny to 16v tranny?

Any help apreciated keep on dubin


----------



## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (CharlieBaltimore)*

8v tranny to 16v tranny? Just make sure you use the 16v clutch disk, as the 8v clutch disk won't fit the input shaft.
Of course 16v pressure plate is highly recommended.


----------



## Killingcivics (Feb 23, 2004)

Now heres is a big question, my setup is in works great idles at 830 rpm smooth and fine, but what can I do now to modify it. what are my options? bigger mass air flow,cams? I need more bang for my bucks . Its fast now but its gotta be faster


----------



## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

*Re: (Killingcivics)*

One of the things that I have found during this swap and driving the car with this setup is that the 16v in general runs much hotter than my 8v ever did so this led me to thinking about the Digi2 system and how it would react to these higher temperatures.
As we all know the Digi2 ECU is heavily reliant on the Coolant Temp Sensor.
In fact the Digi2 ECU makes most of its fueling decisions based on the input from the CTS, (as well as the VAM and intake air temp sensor ).
The Ignition is also is influenced by the CTS which brings me to what i wanted to talk about.
Think of this... when your motor is hot then so is your cylinder head and combustions chamber's. When the motor is hot their is more chance of preignition and pinging. The CTS senses this heat and tell's the computer and ignition to retard the timing to prevent this, as well as leaning out the fuel mixture.
Another way to think of it is that when the knock box hear's something bad it retards the timing.
So in conclusion: Hot motor equals retarded timing and lean running.
I highly recommend the use of a lower temperature thermostat and lower temp radiator fan switch to keep the motor cool and running strong. Another often overlooked sensor is the fan afterrun switch which tells the fan to come on when the car is turned off and the underhood temperatures are high. If this switch is not working it can cause hot start problems caused by heat soak.
I have heard that redline water wetter destroys VW water pump seals however I have never tried it so I can not say if that is true.
On another note I have been toying with a device for Digi2 that will control the signal from the CTS and give us some adjustability in terms of the air fuel ratio. I have tried adjusting the VAM spring but I am more interested in something that can be more easily adjusted for tuning purposes.
I will update you when I have tried a few of my ideas.


----------



## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (MBRACKLIFFE)*

I find that my 16v set up runs colder than my 8v. 
I do have a colder thermostat and the factory oil cooler installed.
I am anxious to hear about your results, however, I had my car on a emmision testing machine, and with stock settings on digi2, I was getting an average of 14.9:1 AFR at idle. Not bad at all.


----------



## MAFGTI (Jul 11, 2004)

Here is my setup but for next summer i'll be running some DCOE 45
















I Was using an BMW535i MAF 









_Modified by MAFGTI at 4:53 PM 11-27-2004_


_Modified by MAFGTI at 5:04 PM 11-27-2004_


----------



## Fast929 (Nov 13, 2004)

*Re: (MAFGTI)*

Very interesting. Looking like the cross section is a good bit larger. Wonder how that would work with the digi2 setup? Not sure how it would calibrate with the stock ecu...??? Maybe something SNS could work into their prom.
Have to let us know how it works out. Working on the same setup....


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## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

*Re: (Fast929)*

There has been an extensive posting on the BMW VAM swap so I thought I would post the link.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1052915
There is also some more info on the swap in the 8V FAQ, look for the post by digiracer.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1019859


----------



## CSDis4lovers (Mar 13, 2003)

*Re: (MBRACKLIFFE)*

just curious here as to the right ecu to use for the setup. I do not know if it matters, or i have overlooked this on a previous post. I was always led to believe digifant cars with dual outlet downpipes, and the three wire 02 sensor, such as the 1990-1992 8v GTI had different ecu's then say the same year gl jetta's and golfs with the single downpipe. Even if this is the case, I am wondering if it has any barring on the swap. 
Great thread, I have really enjoyed this. Always wanted to venture into the world of a 16v digifant equipped car. And bump for being local


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (tibz23)*

awesome question, i wasnt aware of a different part number for dual downpipe applications. actually, we were swapping parts between a single downpipe 1990 golf and a 1992 gti. part numbers matched at least the comp did. Bump for more info.


----------



## CSDis4lovers (Mar 13, 2003)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

i could be wrong. but as memory serves me correctly. i have had numerous 8v digifant vw's. one was a 90 coupe that i installed with a dual outlet downpipe, manifold and three wire 02 sensor. car acted totally different, so much i had to unplug the new 02 sensor, which led me to believe the ecu was different as to one with the freer-flow exhaust system and the more retrictive version. again, i could be wrong, but curious if someone could answer this.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (tibz23)*

Interesting, we noticed no difference. Bump for answers


----------



## CSDis4lovers (Mar 13, 2003)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

also a couple more questions. again forgive me if i missed these in previous posts. the injectors. I know the stock digifant ones can flow a fair amount of fuel, but wondering if the corrado ones gave any sort of advantage, (if people have used these with the digifant 2 setup). and as to the cooling issues with digifant. I assume a lower thermostat, if not simply a lower temp fan switch may help these problems. 
My ultimate question would be the idea of tuneability, as in squeezing as much hp, and torque out of the 16v with digifant 2. being that their is a plethora of digifant 2 jetta's and golf's in the junkyards, this is obviously a plus, but wondering if on a longterm hp/torque goal with: a free flow exhaust, mild-upgrade cams (maybe a set of 260/268), simply intake mods, and of course a boast through the ecu(you have talked about vw_pilot, what about the AMS digiprom?)
again, cheers for a great topic being discussed here! tempting to try a "junkyard resurrection" with a salvage vw (namely a 4 door golf) and maybe a passat 9a block and head.


----------



## E60 (Apr 29, 2004)

*Re: (mrkrad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mrkrad* »_









This part isn't completely required.
I fabbed up one of these and threw it on and it was leaking a bit. I just shaved a little corner of my harness plug off and it works perfectly.(you have to remove one of the unused sensors on the head.)

_Modified by E60 at 12:14 AM 12-16-2004_


_Modified by E60 at 2:12 AM 12-23-2004_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (tibz23)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tibz23* »_also a couple more questions. again forgive me if i missed these in previous posts. the injectors. I know the stock digifant ones can flow a fair amount of fuel, but wondering if the corrado ones gave any sort of advantage, (if people have used these with the digifant 2 setup). and as to the cooling issues with digifant. I assume a lower thermostat, if not simply a lower temp fan switch may help these problems. 
My ultimate question would be the idea of tuneability, as in squeezing as much hp, and torque out of the 16v with digifant 2. being that their is a plethora of digifant 2 jetta's and golf's in the junkyards, this is obviously a plus, but wondering if on a longterm hp/torque goal with: a free flow exhaust, mild-upgrade cams (maybe a set of 260/268), simply intake mods, and of course a boast through the ecu(you have talked about vw_pilot, what about the AMS digiprom?)
again, cheers for a great topic being discussed here! tempting to try a "junkyard resurrection" with a salvage vw (namely a 4 door golf) and maybe a passat 9a block and head.

i can only talk from experience, as im sure others will add on their wisdom. i didnt pick digi2 b/c i wanted to put down 500hp, it was already in the car (8v) so a natural choice. stock injectors work fine (sure bigger is better, to a degree) but the porsche 3.5 fpr is what really make them cook! having that fuel ready to explode into the chamber when needed is a great sound and feeling. digi2 keeps the car cool, as it doesnt seem to run as hot as CIS cars. all these are stock on my car, no overheating







obviously, im not putting down as much tq as others (PL) so i dont get an orgasm until about 3500rpm







and this has been discussed repeatedly, but the 2.0 (or aba tall block) and pl 16v head seems to give the best numbers all around. chips (csw, sns, ams, etc.) are all must! it will simply bring the beast even more alive! now, this is mostly a stock engine, so adding cams, exhaust, ignition, bmw maf, injectors, etc...all will simply put u in the back seat. but remember, in the end, digi2 is still economy, so its cheaper, fun, simple, but 500hp maybe outa reach. enjoy!!! (psss...when ppl ask 'hey whats under ur hood, just say sorry economy 8v management system, sux! then...smile and look in ur rearview mirror







)


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## CSDis4lovers (Mar 13, 2003)

*Re: (rychas1)*

thanx for the info. and no, never wanted to put down 500 hp, never wrote it. I understand the cheapness/economy of digifant II, which is why it sounds enticing. I was hoping 180 would be reasonable, and seems so. thanx again for the help.


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## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (tibz23)*

i know. i was just using 500hp off top of my head. no prob.


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## GTOBB (Dec 30, 2003)

new dyno result








power on crank


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## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (GTOBB)*

ok u cant repazent a digi2 16v like that without specs. please share!!!!


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## GTOBB (Dec 30, 2003)

*Re: (rychas1)*

1.8 16v , KR intake 50mm and KR intake cam, 245cc injectors, BMW 735 maf , gti 8v PF ECU + chip , stock exhaust with cat. , 190000km on engine. 
I still looking for chip binaries (code) with rev limiter up to 7000rpm


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## mrkrad (Nov 9, 2000)

*Re: (GTOBB)*

didn't i tell you to underclock the crystal on the motherboard?


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## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

*Re: (mrkrad)*

Underclocking the chip on the board will raise the redline..? Does this have any effect on the speed at which the processor polls the sensor's for information..?


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## mrkrad (Nov 9, 2000)

*Re: (MBRACKLIFFE)*

maybe or maybe not. go try it and let us know. might have to beef up the fueling since at 7400 the ecu will think its at 6800rpm right? maybe more fuel pressure to offset the gain given a linear rate of flow (i assume if you rev to 7400 you have cams/etc to make use of 7400). Making noise and not power is lame.
try it, you might like it. The fuel chip can always be skewed over a little to compensate. You want a cheap solution i give you an idea.


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## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (GTOBB)*

i dont get it. stock (8v) exhaust on my PL engine feels bloated, like it needs to fart (for lack of better term) o it pulls, but i know exhaust is necessary for steady creamings. i know i need 2.25 and the 55mm cat, but how can u push those #'s with the stock 8v exhaust (im assuming). will cams alone make for most of this power? your AFM and injectors will make one heck of a combustion, but how does that much spent air/fuel escape??? maybe im missin something







if not....cams for me!


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## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (rychas1)*

a PL (16v) with 8v exhaust???? no way man! we can even tell the diff on our 8v Digi-2 Jetta running the dual outlet mani, 2.0-16v Cat and 2.25" exhaust..... A stock 16v flows more air than a ported VR6!!! Biggest restriction is the exhaust.


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## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

question for the digi2 16v fokes.....maybe this is unique to our hybrids?
cleaned my ISV, it works (been tested and buzzes like a .... ) so i cant figure out how come everytime (now seems like everyday) i havta keep adjusting my idle screw to prevent the car from cutting off from idling so low. i adjust it (to a nice 950, where it should be, when the car is warm and accessories are off, just like bentley suggests. so wtf is making my idle reset itself below where i set it jsut a few hrs ago??? and y? if i turn the idle screw much more, its gonna be out of the throttle body help help before i bend some metal


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## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (rychas1)*

on another note mentiond way long ago (concerning my speedo being too fast)...i was actually clocked by a curbside police radar on at least 4 times this week (going down dekalb ave.) and my speedo said 70 exactly, but he radar read 52-53. so, again, is it my cluster (need upgrade to th 140mph one) to read more accurately, or speedo cable to tranny need changing/ upgrading? yes rememeber, its auto, and im sure i just cant buy an 16v auto tranny cable. any ideas???????


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## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (rychas1)*

I had to take off my ISV because it was not working correctly. The sensor itself worked but with no vaccume leak (tested) it was trying to get the comp to over compensate like 1500 then 900 then 2000 then 500 then 2500 then stall. Soi thought i needed to re-route the vaccume system as i had a T off the main break booster vaccume on the intake manafold. soooooo wheni set up the vaccume like a stock 16v it idled at 1300 for some reason. . i couldnt figure it out .. we tried everything .. thats as low as we could adjust it with the screw. So eventatually i just ripped it off and adjusted it cleanly with the screw. . .it stalls sometimes when its cold (it is winter too) but 1 min of driving and it idles like a dream. If anyone has any ideas for me then they are welcome. . .but my advice is to rip it off and go without. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## freeflow90 (Apr 19, 2003)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

Hi, 
Im about to start putting together everything I need for my swap so I have a few questions.
1. Can I use all the 8V motor Mounts? 
2. Can I use all the 16v pulleys (car has a/c and I plan to keep it)
3. Will the 8V c.v joints work with a 16v transmission?
Im sure Ill have more!

Click for a larger image
P.s The engine came out saturday http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

1) Motor mounts - yes
2) Pulleys - yes
3) CV joints - 16v are 100mm, 8v are 90mm
you can either swap the 90 mm flanges over to the 16v trans, or buy the 100mm driveshafts


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## docspeed1 (Apr 26, 2002)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

Only the early (Mk1) 8v's were equipped with the small flanges. Later 8v's had 100mm flanges, IIRC.


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## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

all A2 8v CIS-E/Digifants except auto's from 85-92 were 90mm that i ever worked on.


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## 90Wolfsburg (May 31, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

Okay .. I needed this info - Im getting ready to change out the 8v from my 90 jetta and put in the 16v - This is my first go around with VWs - Im not afraid to tackle the job - but I wonder if it would be easier to ditch the digi and and just do the CIS - Anyone want to try to sell me on the benefits of one versus the other and I am putting it in an automatic tranny car so am I looking at any additional issues.


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## freeflow90 (Apr 19, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (90Wolfsburg)*

I havent done the install part but you would need to change a lot of things to make it cis. So if I were you I would keep the digifant http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (freeflow90)*

go digi! the Motronic CIS-E is a PIA, i got 2 of them!


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## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*

Agreed, cis and all that mechanical stuff is WAY to fussy


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## 89JettaCoupe (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (veedubinit)*

Ok so I am pretty far along in my swap, the only problem I have run into thus far is the exhuast manifold/downpipe. I have my PF 8V dual downpipe, and a mk1 exhuast manifold (didnt check when I bought it) which I know is useless for this swap. Now I thought I could swap it for a mk2 manifold and it would all work, but it now seems that isnt the case either, so is there an option other then getting both the manifold AND downpipe from a passat, cause I don't think I have that sort of cash left over.


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## BOOFWAH (May 11, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (89JettaCoupe)*

My friend and I are having fun with this swap to say the least we got it to start the other night finally after discovering the idle switch wasn't closed and it sounded great through the racing downpipe...with no other exhaust. But that isn't the real issue. We are dead certain on the timing on the motor and the distributor, but where the distributor is turned to we can not bolt it in place as can be seen in the picture. The #1 wire is on the top left as looked at from the driver side fender and the fire order is correct. What is the deal. We moved the wires back and forth on the distributor and played with the timing on the distributor but it just wouldn't fire. Suggestions are more than welcome. The swap is on a '91 Cabriolet using BBM fuel rail, digifast 2 chip, g60 injectors and 3 bar fpr. Thanks in advance.


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## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

Great looking Cabby !!
I'll try to get u some pix of the distributor/rotor/bolts position off my 89 GLI - i had a hard time with it too.


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## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

So yea, note to all you peeps driving your digi2 16v in the more northern climates. I am in Nova Scotia and its freakin cold. Lats night when i left work i came straight home and didnt drive long enought o get the fuel rail warmed up. Come this morning she wont start so i am asuming the fuel rail froze some of the fuel enought o muck up the injectors and make it unhappy. so heads up. . if you have a baun brenner or ross machine racing style fuel rail. . .get them warm so they dont screw off on ya.


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## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

it would only freeze if you have moisture in your fuel right? Fuel itself (gasoline) doesn't jell like Diesel does so as long as you keep ur tank filled there's less moisture buildup from condensation in the tank - and add "dry gas" with every tank...... It shouldnt be any different from a regular Digi right???


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## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

well my tank ran REALLY low because of lack of funds .. . but the normal digi's are plastic .. .. not so prone to freeze gas(or moisture in the gas) 
But now that i have had heat lamps on it for like 2 hours i really amy starting to think itsjust my fuel lines. . grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr


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## BOOFWAH (May 11, 2001)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

Thanks for the compliments on the cabby!







My friend and I are stumped on it and I've been working my arse off lately and had no time to fart around with it. So it sits with a distributor that you have to hold in place by hand if you want to start the car...which then proceeds to stall after a couple of seconds. The joys of motor swaps







Looking forward to seeing your pics and anyone elses posts on this snafu.


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## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (BOOFWAH)*

K, here's a pic of the distributor on my 1.8-16v after I rebuilt the engine.... It was a restore and a lot of parts were missing when i started it - one beingthe distributor. I had a heck of a time getting it running even though I had the timing set "spot-on" with all the marks right on and the rotor at #1 - until my buddy Dave Huff asked me to "humor him" and put the bolts in the current position - it fired right up!!








for a bigger pic: http://www.hotdub.com/pictures...N.JPG
some pix of the 89 GLI project: http://www.hotdub.com/pictures...um=17
Hope all this helps - this GLI is going to become Digi-2 in the spring!


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## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

another chip review, for sns on my auto digi2 16v!
those interested..read here.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...age=2 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## BOOFWAH (May 11, 2001)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

The GLI looks great. You know it doesn't help too much having to run a scirocco intake manifold. That throttle body is all over the distributor and is such a pain to turn. Your distrib is turned almost to the max on the front bolt. If you look at my pic you can see just the top of the top hole on mine, and plug wire 1 is in the same spot as yours







. We'll figure this thing out. We might have to start moving some things around (timing marks) to find the sweet spot that bolts the distributor in place. Thanks for posting the pics and the GLI looks great.


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## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (BOOFWAH)*

the irony is that the distributor only goes in one way... and everything else only lines up only one way too! (unless its off LOL) There's no real tuning like with an 8v distributor where you can move the drive gear a tooth.
On the bottom of this linked page and the first couple pix on the next page are how the rest of the timing is set on that GLI: http://www.hotdub.com/pictures...bum=2
The 90 GLI we did for my middle son is a lot nicer yet


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## EuroRabbit (Aug 4, 2003)

What about puting a Digi II swap into a CIS-E Car? How much more work is that? Dose anyone have any info on that?
Thanks!!!


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## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (Jetta90WB)*

if yours is a 89.5+ Jetta or a 90+ Golf, it has CE-2 electrics so Digi-2 would be a plug-n-play. If its an earlier year then it becomes a little more complicated to get all the gauges & tach to work from what I've read. The 16v Digi-1 FAQ has a schematic for power connections for a Digi-1 so I imagine that it wouldnt be any different for a Digi-2.
Otherwise - its prob best to yank the dash - swap a CE-2 harness, fusebox & cluster in along with an engine harness out of any digifant 8v. It all fits right in pretty much. I did that to an A1 so I could go Digi-1.


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## EuroRabbit (Aug 4, 2003)

How much work was it to get this setup when you did an MK1? 
Did you have to cut and splice any wires? Or was it all just one in, and one out? Also what did you do about speedo/tach?


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## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (Jetta90WB)*

i used the A2 dash harness, cut & spliced the old A1 connectors in so I could use the headlight switch, HVAC, defrost & whatever wasn't part of the cluster or turn stalks.
I swapped on the A2 CE-2 turn stalks w/ MFA etc out of a GTI so it had the rear wiper control. It wasn't that hard to swap but the mounting of the aluminum housing onto the column requires welding of the tab in a new location. I got pix of that part in the HotDub gallery.
Then its a matter of splicing the rear lights and front lights/horn into the fusebox - use CE-2 connectors and splice the wires. The main diff is that CE-2 has separate lighting circuits for left/right where the A1 didnt if i recall.
Swapping the CE-2 cluster in is also fairly easy - mine turned out looking completely stock - (which is what i wanted) except for the 140mph/7k tach setup. I have some pix of that part too.
The dash harness/cluster/engine-ECU harness takes care of 90% of what is different - its only lighting and HVAC left over....


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## EuroRabbit (Aug 4, 2003)

Hmm, it sounds to be complicated. 
So do you think I should switch all CE-2 stuff from the doner to the MK1, instead of using my 87 16v cluster and what not?
Also how well dose the MK2 cluster fit into the MK1 cluster hole?


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## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (Jetta90WB)*

I dont know about A1 Jettas - if the cluster setup is the same as a Rabbit the its not that hard. 
http://www.hotdub.com/pictures...bum=9 for some pix of it


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## glaciuz (Jun 15, 2002)

i have few questions:
1- which of the two knock sensors are you using ?
2- for the cluster temperature gauge , can i cut the 8v connector , split the wires , one to the sensor and the ground , to a ground ..
3- i kept the 8v stock exhaust, will this be a problem ?
Actually i am running the car with the 16v digi-2 , but still having some weird troubles, when i start the car in the morning at -15ºC , it runs fine and its pretty fast , after 2-3 mins , the car become slower , very slower ... this might be a knock sensor problem ???
Need help!


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## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (glaciuz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *glaciuz* »_i have few questions:
1- which of the two knock sensors are you using ? 

*The one at the front of the block is stock location for pre 2.0-16v (left standing in front of the car)*

_Quote, originally posted by *glaciuz* »_2- for the cluster temperature gauge , can i cut the 8v connector , split the wires , one to the sensor and the ground , to a ground .. 

*I'd have to look that up in a Bentley - my A1 swap used a Digi harness. Maybe somebody else can fill in on that?*

_Quote, originally posted by *glaciuz* »_3- i kept the 8v stock exhaust, will this be a problem ?

*Its pretty restrictive for a 16v engine - I would upgrade*

_Quote, originally posted by *glaciuz* »_Actually i am running the car with the 16v digi-2 , but still having some weird troubles, when i start the car in the morning at -15ºC , it runs fine and its pretty fast , after 2-3 mins , the car become slower , very slower ... this might be a knock sensor problem ???
Need help!


*When its cold it gets more fuel until its warmed up - you may want to hook up an AF gauge and see what's happening once its warm.*


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## pdub72 (Apr 7, 2003)

*Re: (MBRACKLIFFE)*

well guys i have a 86 with a 1.8 motronic cis and ce2 setup but the car ran like crap and now it doesnt fire up and such had to many problems.. but i want to swap it to something that wont cause problems and was looking in to digi2 and would this take alot of time and money? and so on.....


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## myke_w (Mar 7, 2002)

*Re: (pdub72)*

Question for MBRACKLIFFE.
I haven't seen where you have talked about the way this setup runs.
So, does it scream? Is it any better than motronic? 
My experience with all my digi 2 cars has been a non linear feel in WOT acceleration. 
What does digi2 on 16v compare to? Maybe I just missed it above, forgive me if thats the case.


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## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

*Re: (myke_w)*

This setup runs great I have had very few problems with my car since the swap and the price was definitely right. I spent most of my money rebuilding my motor and modding it. By the time I was done with all of that I really had no choice but to use my stock fuel injection. I did not feel that swapping the motronic setup from the passat would have been worth it in the long run.
Digi2 is by no means the most ideal fuel system for the 16v in terms of squeezing every last horsepower from it. In fact its lack of tuneability makes it fairly limited. I have owned my car for a long time and except for a few normal wear and tear issues the digi2 has been more than reliable. One thing to note in terms of my setup is that I meticulously went over all of the electrical connections and componets of the digi2 system during the process of the swap which certainly eliminated most of the little problems that could have arisen.
The only problem I have had to date is an occasional hot start issue which when the car is hot and the outside temperatures are also warm the car will sometimes lose rpm and die upon startup. When I start it again everything is fine. The problem surfaced right as winter was rolling in so I have not had much of a chance to diagnose the problem but I am leaning towards the CSW chip which I purchased off of the tex. I will not be able to confirm this until I swap my old chip back in.
If anyone has ideas on this issue please let me know. 
The performance of the setup is great. I can pound on the throttle all day long and the motor pulls strong all the way up until the fuel cuts out around 6800 rpm... my tach may be a little off but you get the idea. I really do not see this lower rev limit being an issue for most of you unless you know for sure your motor can take it. Revving up to 7200 like the stock 16 setup usually does really does not make much sense unless you have a healthy motor or you built it to take this kind of abuse... either way the wear on the motor will be greatly increased if you frequent these high revs. The 16v makes its best power at 5800 rpm anyways.
One thing that I would highly reccomend is considering the tranny that you use. I kept my 8v tranny code AUG and I really do not like the way the gearing matches the motor. 1st gear is basically useless with the extra power of the 16v and 2nd gear is not close ratio compared to third.
Once I hit 3rd the magic starts.








For most of us money is not hanging out of our pockets so our projects tend to progress in steps which is a good thing anyways because it gives you more time to think about what you want to do. Digi2 has allowed me to take care of my motor first and consider my next step. I will most likely go standalone at some point but for now Digi2 is definitely hitting the spot.
To sum this all up.... YES its runs GREAT and YES my car SCREWS.










_Modified by MBRACKLIFFE at 6:17 PM 2-19-2005_


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## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (MBRACKLIFFE)*

mbrackliffe....i have found that since i put in my SNS chip, the idle issues that i kept bugging everyone about magically went away. i cant say 100% the chip did it, but i havent had the problem since. o, and the chip






















o...myke....ive done both csw and sns chip reviews. enjoy!


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## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

*Re: (rychas1)*

So i take it you like the sns chip better than the csw...? For the price I might get it just for the hell of it.


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## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (MBRACKLIFFE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MBRACKLIFFE* »_So i take it you like the sns chip better than the csw...? For the price I might get it just for the hell of it.

yea boooyyyyyyy!!!


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## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (MBRACKLIFFE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MBRACKLIFFE* »_
The performance of the setup is great. I can pound on the throttle all day long and the motor pulls strong all the way up until the fuel cuts out around 6800 rpm... my tach may be a little off but you get the idea. I really do not see this lower rev limit being an issue for most of you unless you know for sure your motor can take it. Revving up to 7200 like the stock 16 setup usually does really does not make much sense unless you have a healthy motor or you built it to take this kind of abuse... either way the wear on the motor will be greatly increased if you frequent these high revs. The 16v makes its best power at 5800 rpm anyways.
_Modified by MBRACKLIFFE at 6:17 PM 2-19-2005_

Mine only revs till 6200 rpm. It used to be an automatic, maybe that's why. But my ECU is from a manual car, and my car now has a manual tranny. Weird. I with I could get mine to go to atleast 6500 rpm. Any ideas boys?


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## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (cdn20VALVE)*

well...i didnt have any problems with revving above that







but im sure its the chip.


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## 16V VW (Aug 1, 2004)

*Re: (MBRACKLIFFE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MBRACKLIFFE* »_This setup runs great I have had very few problems with my car since the swap .................
Digi2 is by no means the most ideal fuel system for the 16v in terms of squeezing every last horsepower from it............................
The only problem I have had to date is an occasional hot start issue which when the car is hot and the .........................
If anyone has ideas on this issue please let me know. 
The performance of the setup is great. I can pound on the throttle all day long and the motor pulls strong all the ............................
One thing that I would highly reccomend is considering the tranny that you use. I kept my 8v tranny code AUG and........................
For most of us money is not hanging out of our pockets so our projects tend to progress in steps which is a ............................................
To sum this all up.... YES its runs GREAT and YES my car SCREWS.









_Modified by MBRACKLIFFE at 6:17 PM 2-19-2005_

I coulden't have said that any better, nice. you just described my car lol.
but i spin them in 1,2,3. its hard to get traction with the 175/70/13's im looking at 215 up front and 205 in rear or 215.
im gonna try the Ams chip cause im gonna turbo and P&P n all the good stuff. we'll see how it works out.
As of now "this second" im going outside to tear the car apart and doo some funkey stuff to it. pics will be posted!..............


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## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (gizmotoy1)*

I installed the BMW VAM, and the car runs like ****.
DIGI2 16v. I've tried all the VAM spring positions Right now it's at 7 teeth. The car won't idle properly now. It's constantly hunting for idle, betweenm 400 rpm and 1500 rpm. Everytime I slow down to a stop, it starts hunting once or twice. 
Cold starts are HORRIBLE!! The car just stalls out. It takes four 10 second cranks to get the car started! THen you haev to floor the car to keep her alive. 
I think I may take it out, and break the FAMOUS VAM with my hammer.


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## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (cdn20VALVE)*

i thought for the 16v, there was no need to adjust it, and if so (only on the stock vw unit), only like 3 clicks, just like the 8v? confirmation anyone? 
ok. lets get this cleared up now. how many clicks (if any) for the bmw unit on a 16v. i know on a stock vw unit, 3 clicks work, especially for the 8v. how many clicks for the 16v. the same 3 clicks...more? ideas??? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (cdn20VALVE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cdn20VALVE* »_I think I may take it out, and break the FAMOUS VAM with my hammer.


Dont do that...
it sounds like your coolant temp sensor is not working since it takes that many cranks and the 10 sec runs are all symptoms of that...


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## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

Yeah. I'm gonna check the coolant temp sensor tomorrow. There is more power at WOT with the VAM installed.
I'll update you guys.


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## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (cdn20VALVE)*

cts replaced. Runs strong now. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## dmoney (Apr 10, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

just finished putting my 16v out of my wrecked golf into a guys digi2 vehicle.. everything is done, granted it needs some finishing touches. It cranks but wont start up..gotta go do some trouble shooting. It has spark & fuel and better have compression because it came out of my running car...


----------



## mk2madness (Jan 19, 2004)

So I'm the newbie on the 16v digi2 bandwagon. I and as soon as I get rid of this euro CIS stuff the swap will start. Will post pics before I start the swap. Car is an 87 Golf GT with a 1.8l 16v, ligtweight f/w, and headers


----------



## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (rychas1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rychas1* »_i thought for the 16v, there was no need to adjust it, and if so (only on the stock vw unit), only like 3 clicks, just like the 8v? confirmation anyone? 
ok. lets get this cleared up now. how many clicks (if any) for the bmw unit on a 16v. i know on a stock vw unit, 3 clicks work, especially for the 8v. how many clicks for the 16v. the same 3 clicks...more? ideas??? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

As per Digiracer in the 8v FAQ:
... 16 Valve Digifant II owners, this is a must do mod IMHO. Near stock or heavily moddified, 16Valve engines can really take advantage of this. Whether you know it or not, your 16 Valve has athsma & this is the cure. 
The Point: Significant increases in Horsepower & Torque throughout the entire rev range. I'll have some dyno numbers soon. If you're serious about big horsepower and you've done everything else (cam, intake, chip, exhaust) this is the next step. If you didn't catch that, this should be done last.
Supplies Needed:
1. Airflow Meter: (AFM) found on the 85-88 BMW 535i (most common), 635i, & 735i. It's the K Series Engine, a 3.5 Liter SOHC Inline 6.
New AFMs for these cars are expensive, as high as $450+ 
Used ones are very cheap from $40-$100 (I only paid $60, shipped to my door) & they can be found @ http://www.car-part.com/
Search for 1987 BMW 535i under Airflow Meter
Mine is from a 1987 BMW 535i it's a Bosch Unit. 
The part # is: 0280 203 027
Note: Do not use the BMW AFMS found on the 325i, 328e, 525i, 528e etc. these units are the same size as our stock/OEM units. (they'll work fine, they just won't give you anymore power)
Note: Your engine is not going to pull the vacuum of a 3.5 liter 6cyl. Therefor you need to reduce the spring tension to allow your engine to idle properly. (with my 2.0L ABA/1.8 head I found reducing tension 8 clicks to work best) If you're using a 1.8L I assume you'd need to reduce it more.
------------------------------------
I'm at about 7 clicks right now. I find that if under 1500 rpm in any gear, if I punch it, there is not enough intake to pull the flapper open. The car bogs.
I will try to play with the settings some more.


----------



## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (cdn20VALVE)*

I tried every setting from 0 clicks to 10 clicks. Same result. The car bods badly at low rpm (below 1500) launches.
Any ideas what I can try doing guys?
I'm thinking I should switch the internals from the oem vam into the 3.5 vam.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (cdn20VALVE)*

well...i already read that thread but i wasnt sure if the clicks were different for 8v and 16v. that thread says 7 seems ok. i just want to get a clear idea how many click b4 i go get this thing







i mean if 3 clicks work best for the 8v, logic would say that 6 would work best for 16v. just want a clear value (if possible).


----------



## needsomthincheap (Feb 3, 2004)

*Re: (rychas1)*

cdn20valve and i have tried every click from one to 10, and it was a **** result everytime, however it may be a faulty unit..... not sure.


----------



## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (rychas1)*

Go buy one and try it. I'm curious to know if you have the same results I have.


----------



## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (cdn20VALVE)*

I got it down to 6 clicks. And let it adapt for a while. It runs good. Not perfect, but as perfect as I think it's gonna run. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (cdn20VALVE)*

Ok now that the 16v is running good. Let's play with it again.








How do we get rid of the rev limiter?
AMS chip seems to eb the only option. 


_Modified by cdn20VALVE at 9:51 AM 3-29-2005_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (cdn20VALVE)*

there is another option....














SNS.


----------



## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

*Re: (rychas1)*

The SNS chip gets rid of rev limiter...??? How is that possible with out replacing both chips in the computer...??


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (MBRACKLIFFE)*

ok. lets get something str8 b4 i make this comment. when i swapped in my 16v, literally the next day, my mechanic called me and said 'did u know ur car revs past 7k?' i said that impossible, its a digi2. and he said ' i swear, it did twice'. i didnt believe him until one day i was freerevving against a golf (CIS-E 16v). the guy was like whats in there....i said just a 1.8 auto







then he came to my drivers door and said rev it again. so i did, to 6500. he said mine doesnt even go to 6200. i said mine will go to 7. he said lets see. so did. he rubbed his eyes and said no way, do it again. so i went to 7500. he said what chip is doing that. i said...SNS







but, the point of all this is that i cant be 100% certain its the chip, as when my mechanic did it, it was unchipped. so who knows why it goes that high. the chip gets it there a hellofalot quicker







and in case that doesnt mean anything by freerevving, when i hit WOT while driving, im at 6800. dont ask much more...cause i cant explain much more than that.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

doens't the rev limiter just trip the fuel pump relay?


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

So today i was driving home and i thought specifically about this post. .. i have a bonnnnne stock digi2 16v and it DOES NOT rev past 6500. And yea i think it trips out the fuel relay.


----------



## GTOBB (Dec 30, 2003)

*Re: (cdn20VALVE)*

send ecu to me,
I have limiter on 7260


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (GTOBB)*

at this point my 2.0-16v is still Motronic w/ a TT chip. 
My tach only goes up to 7K, unlike the 1.8-16v but rev limit is past 7K.
what is the factory rev limit of the 2.0-16v Motronic?


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (GTOBB)*

meh i dunno .. . .i never let it go that high anyway. . . even when i am beating it .. like my second gear is amazing at 3500. .. . and going all the way up to 6 doesnt seem quicker ..


----------



## kevyb1973 (Oct 7, 2004)

hey im hope to get a rabbit gti this weekend maybe i want to do a swap i have a 1.8 16v what all do i need to make it work far as wiring and stuff


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (kevyb1973)*

I have a problem....
For some unknown reason i cooked my destributor cap center piece. I have been driving with it for like 5 months and today i reved it to 6grand and i lost all spark, now i had another one and tried it but it must have been crap in the first place because it didnt work.
So my question is why would i go through a destributor cap so quick? anyone else have this issue?


----------



## gtivdubdude (Mar 20, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

nice job!! I will be trying this swap soon in my 85 rocco...wish me luck!
Chris


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (gtivdubdude)*

ok so Aparently 16v distributors are known to go through hall sender and destroy caps??? I was not aware of this. . . anyone else ever hear of this issue. the arms bend and destroy everything??








i got hooke dup hardcore though here in NS got an old distributor and an 8v hall sender and threw them together. . .cars alive again. 
BUT..
I have an issue with my idle. I had previously removed the ISV because i couldnt get it to idle below 1300 with it. and i have been driving for like 5 months that way .. . using the 8v throttle screw i got a great 900 idle and it was fool proof until it started to get warm. 
Now all of a sudden it's all over the place, acting like its searching. . .sitting at 1500 then going down to 800. . . any ideas??? i looked for vaccume leaks and came up with nothing


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (veedubinit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *veedubinit* »_
Now all of a sudden it's all over the place, acting like its searching. . .sitting at 1500 then going down to 800. . . any ideas??? i looked for vaccume leaks and came up with nothing 


our 8v does that all the time - think its a coolant sensor...


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*

hmm i never thought of that. I'll check the wiring and the sensor this weekend. but does you 8v have the ISV hooked up? because isv's can be fussy and search the same way. . .but i know its not that because mine got thrown as far away as possible cause it was acting like a POS


----------



## mxman (Jul 31, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (veedubinit)*

I installed a bmw vam i got from jeramiah, i took the cover off and set the spring so it was similar to the stock unit... fired it up, it barely idled...the motor bounced around.... it will almsot idle, but wont come off idle...wtf is up?? i dont think its damaged...am i supposed to reset the ECU ? hmmm


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (mxman)*

this is wnat ive been trying to figure out. but the guy from the 8v forum may be on to this answer!


----------



## Delete! (Apr 26, 2002)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

Hey guys, I ran into a little problem w/ my digi swap and was hopin someone here can figure this one, I posted this in the hybrid/swap forum also w/ not much luck as of yet.

Ok, Im in the process of swapping CE2 / Digi 2 into my already 16v rabbit. I threw in an entire harness/fusebox from a 91 jetta. Now, it gets fuel but DOES NOT get spark at the plugs. When I first hooked everything up it didn't even get spark from the coil, but I ran some tests per bentley and found out the ground wire going to the ICM wasn't any good, so I spliced in a ground there and now I get spark from the coil, but not at the plugs. These are the test/conclusions i've come up w/ thus far:
Coil is receiving voltage & is being switched correctly
Swapped in several known good coils
ICM is receiving voltage
Swapped in several known good ICM's
Hall Sender is receiving voltage
Hall Sender is functioning properly per Bentley test
Swapped in brand new bosch plugs
Every now & then when I would ground the plug, I would get a small spark, but this would happen like only 1 or 2 out of 10 times I tried.
Any & all help is greatly appreciated http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Eurodub-Webmaster)*

What color is spark..?? is it a nic e strong spark or weak orange spark..?
Do you get more than one spark..? if not go back to the hall sender. 
Oil in dist. cap due to leaky seals...? 
Correct cap and rotor and in good shape...?
Correct spark plug gap..?
How about plug wires..? Do they check out for the proper resistance... have any splits or damage that would cause arcing..?
When I first did my swap I had similar problems and it turned out to be the Hall sender... it either was completely shot or just did not work with the Digi2 system for some reason or another. I swapped my hall sender from my 8v dist. into the 16v dist. and I had no problems after that. I still questions the compatability of the 16v hall sender vs. the 8v Hall sender.


----------



## Delete! (Apr 26, 2002)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

What color is spark? is it a nice strong spark or weak orange spark? *It's more orange then it is blue but it's definitely not weak*
Do you get more than one spark? if not go back to the hall sender. *I get 2 sparks, one right when I turn the accesories on and the other a second later when the fuel pump relay shuts off.*
Oil in dist. cap due to leaky seals? *Nope, nice and dry in there*
Correct cap and rotor and in good shape? *Just bought both new today and threw them on, nothing changed*
Correct spark plug gap? *I have new Bosch Platinum FR6DP's in which i assume are pregapped?*
How about plug wires? Do they check out for the proper resistance, have any splits or damage that would cause arcing? *Low mileage Blue Ignitors w/ no splits or visual damage and all resistances were in range of bentley spec*
Let me know what ya think... Thanks again


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Eurodub-Webmaster)*

this mite sound dumb..but have u swapped in a known working ecu. i had that problem when i was chipping and the ecu wasnt plugged in reallly good. just a thought. make sure its good and plugged in well. im not sure how cis ecus look/fit , but with this thing, it can look like its plugged when its not! good luck! keep us posted. listen for a snap


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Eurodub-Webmaster)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Eurodub-Webmaster* »_I ran some tests per bentley and found out the ground wire going to the ICM wasn't any good, so I spliced in a ground there 
Any & all help is greatly appreciated http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif









if the ground was missing - you fried the ecu


----------



## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*

Anything other than nice bright blue spark means something is wrong with coil.. either not functioning properly or not getting enough juice.
Should most definitly not be getting a spark with key in acc. position though. Check your wiring out some more.


----------



## Delete! (Apr 26, 2002)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rychas1* »_this mite sound dumb..but have u swapped in a known working ecu. i had that problem when i was chipping and the ecu wasnt plugged in reallly good. just a thought. make sure its good and plugged in well. im not sure how cis ecus look/fit , but with this thing, it can look like its plugged when its not! good luck! keep us posted. listen for a snap









lol, i hear ya man... i really had to push it to get in fully snapped in so I know that's not the problem. I swapped in a known good ECU and I still had the same problem









_Quote, originally posted by *OhioBenz* »_if the ground was missing - you fried the ecu

I took apart that ECU and everything _appeared_ to be fine. Either way I swapped in a good ECU and I still had the same problem

_Quote, originally posted by *MBRACKLIFFE* »_Anything other than nice bright blue spark means something is wrong with coil.. either not functioning properly or not getting enough juice. Should most definitly not be getting a spark with key in acc. position though. Check your wiring out some more.

Hmmm, ok I'll swap out the coil and probe the wiring next time I work on it and I'll let you know if I find anything. Thanks again for the help guys http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Eurodub-Webmaster)*

for those unsure of an auto 16v, i think this mite help a bit.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1944228


----------



## JetWolfs88 (Mar 17, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

Hey, I have a 1991 Jetta 2 door, and it's a california jetta. It has a check engine light, and the ECU is digifant I. Obviously, the system is pertty much the same, but do you forsee any problems I might run into on digifant I? I would think digi I would be ideal for the 16V cause there is an aftermarket due to the G60... I'm sticking this 1.8L 16V into my jet, and this whole article is fantastic.
Input?


_Modified by JetWolfs88 at 7:40 AM 4-25-2005_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (JetWolfs88)*

mite wanna post this in the digi1 forum. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

CA Digi-1 is not same as G60 Digi-1. Its more Digi-II with EGR stuff.
I havent seen a 16v Digi-1 FAQ - yet....maybe I missed it?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*








u sure?







hey i _tried_ to help..


----------



## JetWolfs88 (Mar 17, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OhioBenz* »_CA Digi-1 is not same as G60 Digi-1. Its more Digi-II with EGR stuff.
I havent seen a 16v Digi-1 FAQ - yet....maybe I missed it?

I know it's not G60, but chips made for the G60 will work in the Digifant 1 ecu... Digi II to my knowledge is not chipable, or there is no aftermarket for digi II... But digi I is chipable.
The only thing this car has that my other digifant II jettas don't have is a check engine light. There is no EGR stuff.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (JetWolfs88)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JetWolfs88* »_
I know it's not G60, but chips made for the G60 will work in the Digifant 1 ecu... Digi II to my knowledge is not chipable, or there is no aftermarket for digi II... But digi I is chipable.
The only thing this car has that my other digifant II jettas don't have is a check engine light. There is no EGR stuff.

thats kinda cool - but does it have the boost capability like the G60 Digi-1? Is htere a vac line input to the ECU?


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rychas1* »_







u sure?







hey i _tried_ to help..









DUH!!!!















http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1305329















how did i miss that? never mind - dont answer...


----------



## JetWolfs88 (Mar 17, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OhioBenz* »_
thats kinda cool - but does it have the boost capability like the G60 Digi-1? Is htere a vac line input to the ECU?

No, it will never behave like G60... The only reason I am using it, is because it's already equipped on the car, so I don't have to swap the harness, and it's chipable.... I never planned on doing boost anyway, cause I don't intend on swapping a pelloquin or a vr6 tranny in there. I would rather not use digifant II, cause of the rev limiter, and I would rather not spend 400 bucks on G60 Digi I system if I already have a chippable ECU in the car already... I think, this combined with a BMW maf would be fantastic for the 16V.... What do you guys think the 1.8L 16V can take safely (with stock in internals) with reguards to RPMs???


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (JetWolfs88)*

im still not sure how to answer ur inquiry, but do take note...
- digi1 and digi2 are both chippable, trust me. now, i still dont know the difference in ecus of the cali digi1 and standard form digi2. so whether u should use a digi1 or digi2 chip, i have no idea. somebody else??
- the 16v should work regardless on ur car, since it works on standard form digi1 and digi2 cars. and chips reallly help both out much







revving on a PL is gonna be higher (i can hit 7k+ no prob), but many do favor the 9A for the torque. but if u wanna make ur car a full digi1 (like the g60), visit snstuning.com, and they explain just how to do this. hope this helps.
and ohiobenz....i really hope u were just kidding on not knowing there wa a digi1 forum.


----------



## mxman (Jul 31, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

Digifant 2 16v stinks to high f'n heaven ...wtf is going on ? 
i have the carbon canister unhooked, the pcv is unhooked, i dont know what it could be...the 02 has been changed, im tempted to just go to friggin megasquirt or something haha...hmm


----------



## forbiddenmk2golf (Oct 15, 2003)

i have one question if you wanted to swap the tranny also whats involved on doing that


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (forbiddenmk2golf)*

u need to be more specific....waht tranny code, what type (auto/manual), etc...check the FAQ in the golf/jetta forum. they have plently of writeups there.


----------



## forbiddenmk2golf (Oct 15, 2003)

i dont know the tranny code all i know is it is coming from a 1991 gti 16v


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (forbiddenmk2golf)*

check IM


----------



## forbiddenmk2golf (Oct 15, 2003)

all i heard was that the axle size 8v=90mm/ 16v=100mm... but i heard if you want you can change the axle flange on the 16v tranny from 100mm to 90mm if so how do you do that


----------



## Killingcivics (Feb 23, 2004)

axles sizes are not according engine I have had both 16v and 8v's and almost all had the 100mm driveshafts, I thinks its pre 88-89 cars that ran small driveshafts.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (Killingcivics)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Killingcivics* »_axles sizes are not according engine I have had both 16v and 8v's and almost all had the 100mm driveshafts, I thinks its pre 88-89 cars that ran small driveshafts.

flange size is tranny specific most 8v had 90mm except for auto trans which had 100mm for some reason.
look inside the flange, remove the little disc cover to see the retaining clip. the flange is under spring load - which is why there is a tapped hole in the shaft so u can use a tool and push it down to remove & install the snap ring


----------



## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

The lo-po cars pre 88 had 90s, all (VW all







) post 88 (lo-po and high -po) had 100s.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (vwpat)*

Pat, my son's 90 GL with an ACH econobox trans had 90mm flanges...
Any of the 09A, 02Y, AGB boxes (close ratio) had 100mm.


----------



## forbiddenmk2golf (Oct 15, 2003)

thanks guys i am going to check that out... if so you guys just saved me money i didnt have ...... thanks a lot dubbers


----------



## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OhioBenz* »_Pat, my son's 90 GL with an ACH econobox trans had 90mm flanges...
Any of the 09A, 02Y, AGB boxes (close ratio) had 100mm.
If original, that is an exception which is why I said "VW all" (nothing seems to be 100%).


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (vwpat)*

i think the exception is that the 09A was only fitted on early Wolfsburg models or GTI's so it had the hi-po motor hooked to it. My 87 Wolfie Jetta has 100mm flanges.
Hey its a VW, go figure


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

there is an advantage - the 16v auto's run a tps on the throttle body - at least I have a Passat TB here that has a tps - and i think (not sure) that an ecu from an auto can handle the POT signal.
It does allow for more sensitive tuning


----------



## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*

The autos (Passat and G-60s) use a TPS that is an input to the tranny's ecu (separate from the engine ecu).


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (vwpat)*

so the tps is not used at all for throttle position as far as fuel curve?


----------



## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*

nope, only for the tranny.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*

i wouldnt know....i have an 8v TB, from what i see, its the same as the manual one, no diff. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## rocco8v (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

I just finished my Digi II 16v, and it went really well. 3 days in and the car fired the first time. I can honestly say Bahn Brenner really helped out on this one, with some much needed parts. I put a 1.8 liter 16v in, and it runs great. If anyone needs help, let me know. Here is what was done:
1.8 liter 16v motor
AUG 8v GTI trans
BBM Solid front motor mount
BBM Billet Fuel rail
Bosch 3.5 bar FPR
BMW 535i AFM (spring tension down 8 clicks, but not right, needs to be tighter)
Poly Rear mount 
Autotech Shock Therepy 10.4mm Wires
All new seals, and gaskets
Tokico Illunina 5 way adjustable shocks
Autotech 16v Lowering springs
Autotech Catback exhaust
Fabbed intake
Rampage additives (all three... Injector cleaner, Coolant and oil Additives)
New cap and rotor
BBM Coolant neck adapter
using the 16v throttle body
She runs good, but has a few bugs... My guess is the AFM is the problem, so I will be toying with the settings tomorrow and see what I can come up with.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rocco8v)*

i have four extra 36lb/hr Bosch injectors if anyone needs a set. $110+shipping


----------



## Deuce34 (Sep 16, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rocco8v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rocco8v* »_I just finished my Digi II 16v, and it went really well. 3 days in and the car fired the first time. I can honestly say Bahn Brenner really helped out on this one, with some much needed parts. I put a 1.8 liter 16v in, and it runs great. If anyone needs help, let me know. Here is what was done:
1.8 liter 16v motor
AUG 8v GTI trans
BBM Solid front motor mount
BBM Billet Fuel rail
Bosch 3.5 bar FPR
BMW 535i AFM (spring tension down 8 clicks, but not right, needs to be tighter)
Poly Rear mount 
Autotech Shock Therepy 10.4mm Wires
All new seals, and gaskets
Tokico Illunina 5 way adjustable shocks
Autotech 16v Lowering springs
Autotech Catback exhaust
Fabbed intake
Rampage additives (all three... Injector cleaner, Coolant and oil Additives)
New cap and rotor
BBM Coolant neck adapter
using the 16v throttle body
She runs good, but has a few bugs... My guess is the AFM is the problem, so I will be toying with the settings tomorrow and see what I can come up with.

from a fellow dig II 16v man, that's a nice setup! i'm running the same front motor mount, i love it!


----------



## EastCoastDubber (Sep 30, 2004)

*Help!*

OK, I need some help.
got the ol girl running, but after a couple of seconds it runs extreemly rich. looks like a cold diesel starting up and searches for a while before stalling. cant seem to figure out whats wrong
Help!


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: Help! (EastCoastDubber)*

check your ISV. and check all vaccume lines for leaks. had the same problem & it was my isv on its last leg


----------



## forbiddenmk2golf (Oct 15, 2003)

would it be possible if you can put the picks back up so i can print everything


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (forbiddenmk2golf)*

What were you looking to see?
http://dhociung.www2.onlink.net/home.htm
this guys got some pics i think. its a great write up.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

30,000 km on my digiII 16v swap.







Still running. It idles well. Gets decent gas mileage 560 km to a tank(Summer) 490 km to a tank(Winter).
My block is not vey good though. It's very loud. It is just a worn out, high mileage 9a. I may be looking at doing an ABA bottom end swap in the near future.


----------



## forbiddenmk2golf (Oct 15, 2003)

the pics that were in the write up before


----------



## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

*Re: (forbiddenmk2golf)*

Pics are back up let me know if you need more or thumb through my swap at the link in my sig. for tons of pics of the whole build.


_Modified by MBRACKLIFFE at 4:04 PM 6-9-2005_


----------



## forbiddenmk2golf (Oct 15, 2003)

thanks alot man you have no idea on how bad i need them


----------



## 928vGTi (Jan 25, 2004)

*Re: (forbiddenmk2golf)*

imin the process f this swwap now... can someone tell me how they set up there alternators....pics helps tons


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (928vGTi)*

not sure what u mean by alt setup, but just bolt it up with 16v bracket and 16v alt. pretty simple. i can try to get u pics.


----------



## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

*Re: (rychas1)*


















Do these work for you...?? 


_Modified by MBRACKLIFFE at 1:28 PM 6-29-2005_


----------



## forbiddenmk2golf (Oct 15, 2003)

hey guys, i just finished my swap and its running like crap... the idel either is very low, or it jumps up and down to 2,000 rpm's.... also for some reason my fan doesnt turn on... and the only other problem is i cant figure out what wires go to the oil temp gauge sender, cooland temp guage sender, and the after run switch... so if you can tell me what color wire goes to each of those that would be wonderful... thanks ** i have a 1991 golf gl**


_Modified by forbiddenmk2golf at 8:45 PM 7-6-2005_


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=634038
sensor info


----------



## forbiddenmk2golf (Oct 15, 2003)

ya, but is that how they are on a 8v motor


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (forbiddenmk2golf)*

no.


----------



## forbiddenmk2golf (Oct 15, 2003)

i just drove my car for the first time and crap cant explain how bad its running... i dont know what to do, the car idel is al over the place, if i hit the gas hard it bogs, it wont go past 4k rpms when i am driving, the radiator doesnt turn on when the car is off unless i put it on a part of the actuall motor, my oil light is on and it wont stop buzzing, and the car has no power... i dont know what to do, i just spent all my money on this car... someone please help me


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (forbiddenmk2golf)*

you have several problems...
here's a link to a vac schematic pdf file:
http://www.hotdub.com/forums/i...id=46
and here is a link to the fan circuit:
http://www.hotdub.com/pictures...c.JPG
look for me on AIM - I have the sensor wiring picture on my laptop at home. So drop me an e-mail or AIM around 9pm est


----------



## forbiddenmk2golf (Oct 15, 2003)

i dont know, i am going to try looking at all of that on my car and see if any of that is wrong


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (forbiddenmk2golf)*

check that stuff and get back to us. lets help this digi2!


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (forbiddenmk2golf)*

heres a pic of the 16v sensor locations - got it here on the Tex but cant remember where - which is why i save them on my laptop
















i'll scan the Bentley wiring schematic page for 8v Digi if u need me to....


_Modified by OhioBenz at 8:34 PM 7-8-2005_


----------



## forbiddenmk2golf (Oct 15, 2003)

ya that would be wonderful please, i have a bently but i cant understand anything


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (forbiddenmk2golf)*

if u cant understand the bentley it wouldnt do much good to scan mine for u


----------



## forbiddenmk2golf (Oct 15, 2003)

i cant understand it because i cant find the diagrams i need.. i know how to read the schematics


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (forbiddenmk2golf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *forbiddenmk2golf* »_i cant understand it because i cant find the diagrams i need.. i know how to read the schematics

pgs 173-175 of the grey Bentley has most all the sensors, fan relays etc. pg 174 is all the Digi-2 wires, pg 175 is your oil presure sensors.


----------



## forbiddenmk2golf (Oct 15, 2003)

thanks... i am going to take a look at it


----------



## forbiddenmk2golf (Oct 15, 2003)

thanks everyone that helped mei got it running semi right everything is good.. the only problem i have is when i am driving it if i start driving it hard it hesitates a little bit but i think its my ignition timing so i am going to have it checked out... believe it or not it was the stupidest thing, my distributor was 180 degrees off


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (forbiddenmk2golf)*

great news!


----------



## gli4life (Feb 22, 2002)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

well not only is my car running good but its being raced. this last week it survived and finnished its second hill climb of the year, i got new tires and it made a huge difference. 
considering its unchipped and its preforms under race conditions very well. here is a link to one of my launches at the okemo hill climb
http://www.bakersdozenracing.c...1.avi
and some pictures from the event. of my car and some others like my freinds mk3 x-flow turbo air to water set up. 
http://www.bakersdozenracing.c...um=61
i'd recomend this swap a 1000 times over just use german wiring i had a night mare with a mexican harness and had to get a whole new one from a german carrat, http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
ryan


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (gli4life)*

hillclimbs look pretty cool - who sponsors them? SCCA? would love to try one in my 90 GLI


----------



## gli4life (Feb 22, 2002)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

its definatly not scca its neha "new england hillclimb asociation" check out that web site at http://www.hillclimb.org
and it is a blast.


----------



## forbiddenmk2golf (Oct 15, 2003)

i have a question... when i start my car the idle is horrible i jump up and down, after driving it like a min. the idle goes perfect.. i am goignto adjest my ignition timing and i was wondering if it will fix that problem of not.. if not what do you think it is?.. thanks


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (forbiddenmk2golf)*

since ur in a colder climate, thats normal since u dont have cold start injection. that happens to me during winter (occassionally). but when the ecu rememerbs, hey dude, its winter, i have no probs.


----------



## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (rychas1)*

DigiII runs like ass. Sorry, but it's true.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (cdn20VALVE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cdn20VALVE* »_DigiII runs like ass. Sorry, but it's true.









I disagree, I like my digi2. .. .it works great and i have half a tank right now with 437kms to the tank. with gas the way it is. . i am getting just as good milage out of my 16v as I am with my old tired straight diesel.. . . I'll buy that for a dollar!

















_Modified by veedubinit at 9:42 PM 7-20-2005_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (cdn20VALVE)*

come drive mine. bet u'll take that back


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (rychas1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rychas1* »_come drive mine. bet u'll take that back
















haha sure .. as long as I can fix it first. digi2 is a pretty stright forward system. . .unless you have a complete wiring NIGHTMARE then its just touch and go to get it working right. . I'm not a mechanic. . and before this swap i had never even touched a car. Its not that hard, especially with bentley on your side


----------



## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

I recently had my entire 9a rebuilt. New pistons etc... I reinstalled my engine, and now the car won't idle proper at cold start.
Symptoms cold start
- Severe engine knock
- 500 rpm
- slight throttle input results in stall
Runs perfect when hot except that idle rpm is at 1500rpm. ( I have it set that high so that it will even idle at cold.










_Modified by cdn20VALVE at 1:19 PM 7-21-2005_


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (cdn20VALVE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cdn20VALVE* »_I recently had my entire 9a rebuilt. New pistons etc... I reinstalled my engine, and now the car won't idle proper at cold start.
Symptoms cold start
- Severe engine knock
- 500 rpm
- slight throttle input results in stall
Runs perfect when hot except that idle rpm is at 1500rpm. ( I have it set that high so that it will even idle at cold.









_Modified by cdn20VALVE at 1:19 PM 7-21-2005_

CHeck your MAF wiring and functionality, mayve it got dropped or something during the rebuild. under throttle will it run at all? if not I'd say MAF. but it could be your blue coolant sensor, or you ISV.








good luck


----------



## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

It all ran great above. Read my post near the top of this page. That was before the swap. I have to time the engine with my timing light. I just haven't had time to do it yet. I'm Crossing my fingers that that will fix it...


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (cdn20VALVE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cdn20VALVE* »_It all ran great above. Read my post near the top of this page. That was before the swap. I have to time the engine with my timing light. I just haven't had time to do it yet. I'm Crossing my fingers that that will fix it...

Nahh i doubt timing will fix it. . with off distributor timing it'll still idle pretty close and when you hit throttle it'll stall or fight to rise etc etc. I'd say to check MAF, Blue coolant, and ISV. Unplug them and see if it makes a change in the idle. for instance. if your blue coolant sensor is ****ting the bed, it will mess up your idle, until you unplug it. then the comp will go to a default and the problem will seem to be kinda corrected.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

i'd check the o2 sensor. Had exact same symptoms on an 8v Digi-2 and it was a bad o2.
i use the Escort o2 sensor $30 or less


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OhioBenz* »_i'd check the o2 sensor. Had exact same symptoms on an 8v Digi-2 and it was a bad o2.
i use the Escort o2 sensor $30 or less

yea good call . .that can cause the same issue. . .just unplug it and see if it helps http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

I will unplug today before I leave work. I'll follow up with you guys. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (cdn20VALVE)*

not sure that unplugging the o2 will work. the ecu is looking for a voltage signal once its in open loop. if you disconnect the blue coolant temp sensor it will think it is still cold and stay in closed loop - ignoring the o2..........


----------



## docspeed1 (Apr 26, 2002)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OhioBenz* »_not sure that unplugging the o2 will work. the ecu is looking for a voltage signal once its in open loop. if you disconnect the blue coolant temp sensor it will think it is still cold and stay in closed loop - ignoring the o2..........

In all the 8v Digi cars I've had (4 of them), I've found that Digi2 freaks out with a bad o2 sensor, but runs just fine without one. Fuel economy was never seriously affected, and it makes the system more responsive to MAF and fuel pressure adjustments.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (docspeed1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *docspeed1* »_
In all the 8v Digi cars I've had (4 of them), I've found that Digi2 freaks out with a bad o2 sensor, but runs just fine without one. Fuel economy was never seriously affected, and it makes the system more responsive to MAF and fuel pressure adjustments.

Yea we found the same thing, only we did find a fuel economy differece. digiII runs best if its working


----------



## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

Unplugging o2 sensor made no difference. In closed loop the car runs fine.
I've unplugged the ISV. And set the idle for about 1100rpm. This will do for now. I'm looking into standalone as we speak. 
I've spent $$$$ on new pistons, and a full engine rebuild. I don't want to put my investment in jeapardy by running a 1980's EFI system.
Having to unplug my ISV or O2 sensor is ridicullous. (BTW the O2 sensor is only 1 month old.)


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (cdn20VALVE)*

i think u have a bad 02 - it should have made a dif to unplug. spend $ on an 02 sensor b4 u go spending $$$$ on standalone. not that standalone is bad, but they wont run with a bad 02 either LOL


----------



## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

Ohio, the O2 sensor is new. I plugged it back in prior to going into closed loop. I only left i unplugged for the cold start, as suggested by someone else on this board. 
Obviously if I disconnect the o2 sensor from it's harness during closed loop, it will affect driveability.
My problems stem more from poor idle control. ie. it is perfect at 1100 rpm, but the odd time when I approach a red light, and stay in neutral, the rpms climp up until 2000 rpm, and stay there. If I give gas, hoping that it will bring the rpm down, it doesn't do ****. My friends digiII does the same. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## gli4life (Feb 22, 2002)

*Re: (cdn20VALVE)*

i don't even run an isv on my car. its also just a race car, the only effect i see is it will stall untill it warms up a bit. so i wouldn't call not running it the end of the world. i'd say it acts more like the ecu temp sensor is on its way out, i tried to use the stock 16v sensor and had it hooked up wrong or something because it did the same thing yours is doing untill i sent with the stock digiII sensor. good luck. 
ryan


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (cdn20VALVE)*

i dont know wtf just happened...but yesterday i drove to captain d's, and it was hot







car ran a tad bit hotter than usual, but not too much. anyway, i pulled into the drive in and while they were fixin my food, i killed the engine to save gas and give it a rest. about 7 min later, food was done, and i started up. only when i started it, it died with the time it took for the rpms to find idle. so i tried again, and it took about 5 sec, with gas action, to crank. weith a few high revs, it was fine, and drove fine. wtf?
then i drove not even 100 ft next door to kauffman tire to chat with a friend. i killed the engine yet again, just to see if it would do the same thing. after about 10 min..same thing? by now i am very ticked, as i have had no probs thus far. wtf happened?? just a hot day? what?


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (rychas1)*

mine does that when its cold sometimes. . .i think my computer is screwey.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

i think my comp is fine. any other ideas?


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (rychas1)*

I'm not sure what else to tell you, possibly your ISV isnt working "up to par" that might be something to look into. . maybe its working . .but not quick enough.
But on another note. I finally got my hooptie dyno'd today. I'm pretty happy with the numbers. this is a very tired 16v that got dropped in with a lightened flywheel.








its in this car in case peoples arent aware








let me know what you guys think, is everyone pretty close to that?
thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif









_Modified by veedubinit at 10:56 PM 7-26-2005_


_Modified by veedubinit at 10:05 PM 7-30-2005_


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

hmmmm a 2.0-16v on Motronic lists at 135hp. If there was a dyno locally I'd run my Motronic chipped 213K gli on it to see what another tired 16v would do.
i guess i'm a little disappointed to see that low of a number. What injectors are you running? any chip?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

so is that like 140-145 ish at the crank?


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OhioBenz* »_hmmmm a 2.0-16v on Motronic lists at 135hp. If there was a dyno locally I'd run my Motronic chipped 213K gli on it to see what another tired 16v would do.
i guess i'm a little disappointed to see that low of a number. What injectors are you running? any chip?

dont bother, my buddy was there with a 450k gtx motronic with a neuspeed p chip, he put down 129bhp123tq. I am running a completly stock digifantII setup, no chip, no injector change. . I was running somewhat lean at times .. but i need a chip to correct that. I'm pretty happy with my numbers. there was a tired VR there that ran 143/144
and we had a stg3 1.8t that ran 320/312














we had an awesome show.


----------



## karmann16v (Sep 12, 2003)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

Your dyno report is gone (from my computer anyway) saw it yesterday. I'd kill to have that fuel curve (or line). heres mine. Does anyone have a method of checking grounds with meter, light or whatever. I think that may be why I'm running so rich.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (karmann16v)*

use the check in the Bentley for Digifant - pin to pin on the ECU will tell you a lot!


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (karmann16v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *karmann16v* »_Your dyno report is gone (from my computer anyway) saw it yesterday. I'd kill to have that fuel curve (or line). heres mine. Does anyone have a method of checking grounds with meter, light or whatever. I think that may be why I'm running so rich.









WOOOOOOOOOOWWWWW
you got a WAYYY better power number than me .. i meani got a slightly larger torque, maybe because i have a lightened flywheel. . who knows. What else do you have done to your motor? can you list everything you did? or is it just new .. cause my bottom end is unkown milage, probably rediculasly high








Anyone else have dyno's? Throw em up guys! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## karmann16v (Sep 12, 2003)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

I probably have more power now. Got the fueling figured out, Pin 19 (Ground to engine) on computer was faulty, thanks to Ohiobenz







. Car feels much stronger now.
-2.0 16v
-bottom end completely rebuilt with new bearings, rings etc.
-header
-2 1/4 tt exhaust with magnaflo muffler
-tt 268 cams, heavy duty valve springs and adjustable sprocket
-Ported and polished head (Intake port matched, short side flattened, bowls enlarged, exhaust fully polished)
-ARP studs
-8.5 lb flywheel
-3.5 bar fpr
plus some other odds and ends.
I attribute my low torque to the P&P job
look











_Modified by karmann16v at 4:32 AM 7-31-2005_


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

nice & clean! are those Magnacore wires?


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*








thats hot .. . I'd eat off that. . and thats a really impressive amount of work. How much did it cost you to P&P your head. . or didyou do that on your own?


----------



## karmann16v (Sep 12, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OhioBenz* »_nice & clean! are those Magnacore wires?

They came from Concept1 dont know who makes them. 10mm.
I did all the work myself.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

Excellent job!! We're almost done with my son Peter's GLI, not a Digi conversion yet - maybe in the future!! http://www.hotdub.com/pictures...um=18
What is that sitting against the rad support by the alternator?
This being an 91 Cabby - its pretty much an A1 conversion right? Did it have Digi-2/CE-2 wiring already??


_Modified by OhioBenz at 11:43 AM 7-31-2005_


----------



## karmann16v (Sep 12, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

Thanks
Was a Digi 2 origionally. Thats a oil catch can next to the rad, not connected in the photo.
Yes its a A1 conversion.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (karmann16v)*

holyhotstuff!!!


----------



## cbn70 (Aug 7, 2005)

*Re: (rychas1)*

Just a quick question, what are you guys getting for mileage with you 16v conversions? just curious? thanks


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (cbn70)*

Ithnk my best so far was 588kms and that was as soon as it hit the red. soi definitly could have hit 615 or so .. probably more







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
on another note... i have had one last problem with my swap and thats the starter, it was not right and just a quick replacement, so i went to swap it out tonght and holy crap did everything go wrong, my main power wire was stuck on the bolt because thenut wouldnt spin off,thenthe whole piece broke off the silinoid. and to top everything off. . the motor mount bracket decided to let go of its weld on the top starter bolt, so now i cant get that off. Now i am screwed and have no way to work tomorrow. Greg =


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

i know this prob too late - the easiest way I have found to switch starters:
remove the top nut from the front motor mount
jack up under the transmission until the bracket is just off the mount
disconnect battery hot
disconnect wires from starter
unbolt starter - replace, reverse order
it prevents any load being placed on the mount, starter etc.
makes a change pretty quick


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OhioBenz* »_i know this prob too late - the easiest way I have found to switch starters:
remove the top nut from the front motor mount
jack up under the transmission until the bracket is just off the mount
disconnect battery hot
disconnect wires from starter
unbolt starter - replace, reverse order
it prevents any load being placed on the mount, starter etc.
makes a change pretty quick

I jackthe whole motor up first, no need to take it off the mount, the bracket doesnt need to move, but i had to cut the stupid little circle threaded "I'm supposed to be welded but i suck at being welded" bit. until i could get the bolt to move, the bracket was useless anyway. So i got it off, and changed the front motor mount while i had it all apart, so now i have a fabulious working starter and a new better working motor mount. 
Everything works out if you just take your time and relax, causei was losing my mind last night, and couldnt even think straight.
But yea, tomorrow i will get my muffler put on(it grounded out and got ripped off) and then i will try once againto see how many KMs i can get out of a tank, here in NS its kinda like a heat wave, its pretty gross. So i am wondering it it'll effect my milage.
Does anyone on here have performance chips on their digi2 comp thats made for a 16v?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (cbn70)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cbn70* »_Just a quick question, what are you guys getting for mileage with you 16v conversions? just curious? thanks

i probably get the lowest, since im auto. it varies on my driving and temp...but i go b/t 265-295 miles per tank. i avg about 270 if i can get the hwy mostly.

_Quote, originally posted by *veedubbinit* »_Does anyone on here have performance chips on their digi2 comp thats made for a 16v?

sorta. i have SNS, and tho they developed chips for digi managements, they specifically kept the 16v in mind when tuning the chips. the owner runs a hot 16v on digi1. some cars still run g60's, but u get the idea. aside for giac, eip, and neuspeed, i cant think of many companies that actually tune for 16v. for us, we fit b/t the spectrum.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (rychas1)*

How can i get one of these SNS digi2 chips?


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

http://www.snstuning.com/


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

Thats fabulious, thanks
cheers







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Edit: this says digi1 can the digi1 chips be used on digi2? What are some of you guys using?
I think maybe a cam chip would be a good idea because the 16v's pass more air up top like a cammed 8v might TRY to do










_Modified by veedubinit at 9:44 PM 8-11-2005_


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

i would talk with them. I've also heard that the chip that VW_pilot sells on E-Bay for Digi-2 works well
SNS is more Digi-1 oriented but they may be able to help anyway.


----------



## gli4life (Feb 22, 2002)

i talked to sns and they said they couldn't help me out with digi II??????
whats up with that?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (gli4life)*

they need spare eproms. i was gonna given them a few til i sold my ecus. plus they need a digi2 car to play with. just imagine..


----------



## Gabe. (Apr 29, 2004)

*Re: (rychas1)*

Fuel Injector's
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Knock Sensor
Blue Coolant Sensor
Single Sensor Coolant Flange on side of cylinder head
8v Throttle Body
8v Fan After Run Switch
Digi2 Airbox
Vanestyle Air Meter (VAM) (on airbox)
Airbox to Throttle Body Tube
Idle Stabilizer Valve (ISV)
Digi2 Injector Cups

are all of these parts the same on an automatic 8v as they are on a manual transmission 8v?


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (Royale10)*

they sure are








Edit: I guess I should tell you guys about what happened to my digi2 16v yesterday. I had ANOTHER hall sender fail on me friday morning because of a warped trigger arm








So aparently our VW in halifax are taking cores, so i have been rebuilding them over and over again because of this problem like 4 times in the last yr. So i finally bit the bullet and traded in all my cores and got a discounted bran spankin new distributor, its fabulious!
but when iput that on for some reas it still acted like it had to spark.
well after a lot of part swapping like my ecu,maf, etc. i found that it wasnt the spark, but that it was running pig rich and drowning the spark, basically flooding it. after looking around i found that my ground on my 2nd cy injector broke, so it wasnt firing and the other 3 were getting that much more pressure and drowning the motor. 
Just a heads up because my oil cap leaks a bit, and my wires got all seedy. so keep an eyte on it guys, cause its hard to figure out whats going on and I had to take the intake manafold off on the sideof the road to fix the wire to limp it home then actually do it right.


_Modified by veedubinit at 2:37 PM 8-14-2005_


----------



## Gabe. (Apr 29, 2004)

awesome thanks for the help


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (Royale10)*

the 8v Auto TB is *NOT* the same as an 8v manual TB. I've done the swap before and the linkage is totally different!!


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

i can testify to this!


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (Royale10)*

yup...all the same, except for above post.


----------



## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

Kind of like the robot Number 5 in the movie, I am looking for input. I have been thinking of the Digifant I or II conversion for a 16v engine for some time. I have also read all the posts here and it seems that at least a few are happy with the results of either system. Because I have not decided which route to take, I am posting this in both forums, sorry for the space I used, forgive me. In an effort to keep this as short as possible, I will skip the reasons as to why I am thinking about this conversion and just ask for the input needed.
Some background that might help when giving advice. I am currently running my 16v (1.8L) with a straight CIS setup. No CAT as I don’t have to currently have one. Fuel mixture unit is the VW Motorsport model. Fuel pump is 52mm CIS-E from a PL code engine. 43mm intake manifold, Autotech sport camshafts (I place it between the Schrick 260° and 268° cams) and a modified cylinder head, was told about 12% - 15% increase in flow. Current exhaust is European factory non-emission except the rear muffler is an Italian sport model. I have no problems doing wiring and already know the requirements needed for either system If that’s not enough information, feel free to ask.
Here’s the sticking points or questions:
> I know the Digifant I can be chipped to run a normally aspirated 16v engine. I assume not only the fuel, but the ignition advance is also altered to work or the conversion would not function real well. What about the Digifant II ECU? Can the ignition advance also be corrected? Can the fuel shut-off, limiter, also be raised? What about the different ECU models out there, KEN, Bosch, TAN, Seimens all with a dozen suffixes or so, which is the best for doing a Digi II conversion?
> The air flow meter, Digi II only here, which really is better. I have read the debate about the BMW big meter vs. the VW meter. I have also looked at them and a few others, Ford and Opel, to see what all the differences are. The BMW has a tight spring as does the small 6 cylinder BMW meters. Except for the big BMW meter, they all had about the same size in and out openings. The pins and their function don’t match the VW positions and functions either but of course the wires can be swapped easy. The size of the openings is also an issue I really don’t understand the big deal about. The big BMW is like a 3.2L or bigger 6 cylinder so I would expect the meter to be larger, but the smaller 2.5L 6 cylinders use the same size meter as the 1.8L and 2.0L VW engines, what gives here?
> Co_pot position and mounting, Digi I only here, is another issue. The original G60 has the co_pot mounted in the air inter cooler and air temperature there is not all that cool. The correct position, direction, I know but what about distance from the throttle body? Is it going to be too cool for N/A usage or is the chip going to correct for this if it is a problem? As I understand things, the co_pot has a much greater effect in this application then when using boost so is position important?
I know there are aluminum and steel mounting bungs. I have also seen the self made bung posted. How are either of these attached to a plastic or aluminum air pipe? A steel pipe I don’t think I would use because of the weight. Can the water flange sensor bungs, plastic kind like the co_pot bung, be cut off and mounted to a plastic air pipe?
> The fuel pump/injectors/regulator is the last area I would like some input on. I currently have a good set of G60 injectors. Will they be good, at least for starters, or should another set be purchased?
I also have a “normal” 3BAR regulator. Again, will this work well or should I spend the $70 or so and get the 3.5BAR model?
As stated, the current fuel pump is the 52mm CIS-E model. I don’t mind buying the G60/Digifant pump as I already have two of the housings and filters, but can the higher pressure pump be kept? Will it over-power the regulator and either ruin it or flood the engine?
Sorry to take up so much space but I think some of the photos that people post take up more than this any how. Some helpful advice on these issues will help me decide which system I will use. This is also not a race car so keep that in mind too please. If anyone can relay just how they feel about the driveability/performance/satisfaction of their conversion that would help too.
Again thanks for any helpful advice or clearing up.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (WaterWheels)*

>A digifant 2 chip can be used, just get a chip ment for an 8v it will raise your fuel cut and correct the problems. Remember that your digi2 computer has no idea its not an 8v, it just reads more air coming in, THATS IT.
> I see no advantage to getting a larger air flow meter. Maybe if you got to the point where you could do nothing else that might be some of the very last upgrade's I'd do. but i dont see getting that without getting a larger throttle body.
>I know nothing about digi1, sorry
>I just cut apart 2 rubber 8v intake boots, and put a cut up joint made from a passat in the middle. 
>I dont know what the term "bung" means... sorry
>I have the stock 8v fuel pump and injectors, wheni dyno'd my car i had a perfectly straight fuel curve, so they are more than fine. possibly if i got a header and exaust and had it reving higher I'd get some better injectors, but g60 would be way more than fine.
>I am using the stock fuel pressure regulator and have no problems.
I hope this helps a bit, but i am not a mechanic or an expert, i hope some of the guys who knwo more answer too, i am sure they will
Cheers http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 16vDigiGti (Aug 23, 2005)

how do i know if my ecu is digi 1 or digi 2? des it say right on the ecu housing?
this is a girl BTW, be nice...


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## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (16vDigiGti)*

Digi-1 has a nipple for the MAP vacuum line - Digi-2 does not.
It should say Dgifant-2 and be from an 87-92 8v vehicle.


----------



## 16vDigiGti (Aug 23, 2005)

whats the easier swap? My 88 should have digi 2 then right?
should i just order the fuel rail, fpr connector and injector cups?
i would really like to do this swap and if anyone would be willing to help me out 
by maybe emailing each other that would be great.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (16vDigiGti)*

Is your car a 16v? if so - its not a digifant-1 or 2
if its an 8v and has no steel braided fuel lines going to the engine from the passenger side - its Digi-2
IM me ur e-mail addy


_Modified by OhioBenz at 2:22 PM 8-23-2005_


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## 16vDigiGti (Aug 23, 2005)

i have a 92 9a 16v and an 88 8v digi, its a digi 2 i guess from what i have found out.
and yes i know the PL and the 9A were cis or cis-e motronic


----------



## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

*Re: (16vDigiGti)*

16vDigiGti:
If your car has this part (Known as the VAM; Vane style Air Meter) mounted on your airbox then your car is Digi2. 








Feel free to IM me or Email me or post questions here when you start your swap, also I am sure you have read the first page of the FAQ with the Swap outline on it but I put up a pretty comprehensive list of things you will need.
Good Luck.


----------



## Gabe. (Apr 29, 2004)

ive searched and couldnt find the info i needed and dont own a bentley for this car. is the fuel line that hooks up to the fpr the blue one or is it black? im trying to figure out which is the return line and which is the feed line so i can finally start my baby!!! and my car was a 1.8 8v and is now going to be a 1.8 16v with digi 2


----------



## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

*Re: (Royale10)*

Blue is the return line and connects to the FPR.


----------



## mxman (Jul 31, 2003)

*Re: (16vDigiGti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16vDigiGti* »_how do i know if my ecu is digi 1 or digi 2? des it say right on the ecu housing?
this is a girl BTW, be nice...









booo copout, thats kinda hot that a chicks doin it tho


----------



## 16v po boy (Oct 27, 2001)

*Re: (mxman)*

figured id finially post the results of my swap. 
i built the car from scratch, started out with a tub and sourced parts from all over the back yard.








2.0 9a bottom end, 1.8 head ported. autotech sport cams,40mm intake,2-1/4 exh no cat. lightened fly, aba belt setup, neuspeed wires, 02a tranny swap. currently running bone stock digi 2 management and im amazed at the results. it was literally plug and play, i guess got a little lucky but knowing vw's like the back of my hand probably helped, i mean as soon as i turned the key she fired up, ran perfectly, and idles pretty good, about 10 minutes of tuning and i havent touched it since, about 1,000 miles. im running a bit lean according to the plugs, nothing scary but it does need some attention. 
smooth raw power. no lag, no hesitation, just whomp it and hang on. 
great gas milage so far. im running 10 deg advance @ idle with no knock sensor and no spark knock. with 93 octane. 
i have been concentrating on getting the cosmetics of the car in order and havent fooled with the engine much lately, but now its time to upgrade for some more fuel, i guess im gonna try the bmw maf, and some corrado injectors with a 3.5 bar fpr. as far as a chip goes i have yet to decide, i tried to install a csw chip but it did not work, i may have had a bad chip. 
so far my only dislike is the redline, i just started getting into it after a brief break in and now im bouncing off the lame ass redline through 4th gear. 
ordered a direct port nitrious kit as well. yea say what you want but i aint skeered, working on a dual knock sensor setup. id really like to find someone to burn me a dual mode chip for nos... but every chip tuner has digi 2 hate so that sux. anyhoo i give the digi 2 16v swap http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif here are a few old pics.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (16v po boy)*

you probably going to over do it with all those fuel upgrades. pretty much any one of those will fix your lean problem. . .mine doesnt run lean until up top and it shows on the dyno sheets. Very well done though, nice and clean. which is what my next plan is. I have a motor now to rebuild and i was going to run turbo aba bottom end etc etc. But i have decided that I am fine with my diesel for the winter and a well tuned digi2 16v with some bolt ons. 
So that being said i am having all sorts of problems. none that cant be fixed easily i wouldnt say. I have 5 ISV's and NONE of them work. I checked the wiring and its fine .. i just dont have one that works. they all do different things. 1 goes stright to 3500 rpm. 2 do nothing but idle bounce like mad, 1 idles perfectly but electronically doesnt work allthe time and the car just flatlines when i put clutch is disengaged, and 1 idle jumps/idles/ and flatlines.
Does anyone have a digi2 ISV that works? or have access to new ones that are cheaper than 490 CAD?


----------



## 16v po boy (Oct 27, 2001)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

digi 2 is real sensitive to vacume leaks. check and double check for those, also make sure you arent sucking air before the maf. im running mine right now with no isv, i was having an intermidint vacume leak at the isv, so i just plugged it all up and it idles fine. i have some 2.0 isv's that are good. 
i think they are a different plug than 1.8's. you can use either 1.8 digi or 16v cis isv's. id just remove it and see how that goes,


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (16v po boy)*

there are no vacume leaks the system will hold pressure. And Motronic ISV's are not the same as far as I know. I explained what happens differently with every ISV I use. this changed per isv and every ISV has its own characteristic. this means its my ISV's that are acting up. but yea i did think of vaccume leaks and i did for a long time have no ISV and just closed everything off, but i find I get WAY better gas milage with one hooked up. I just got 591kms out of a tank with it .. and without it iwas getting mid 400's. I mean it could be another factor, buti want to try to have Digi2 running with all its sensors. its less trouble shooting for when things fack off if i know all the sensors are plugged in and working


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (16v po boy)*

sounds like ur just lacking a nice chip to fix the lean issues. sounds hot!


----------



## rocco8v (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: (rychas1)*

Yes, a chip could be the problem, but this is what I have found with mine. I am running a 1.8 liter motor, from top to bottom. I used a Porsche 3.5 bar fuel pressure regulator, a CSW (Digifast) chip, and a BMW 535i AFM. I also installed a duostyling Air/Fuel gauge.
This car never ran lean... ever. Even on factory injectors... stioch all the way. Interestingly enough, I have kinda figured out that Digi II is CIS with electronic injectors. Two wires run to the injectors, and split to the 4... At least it seems like a glorified CIS. 
Anyway, I did notice that the car choked a little bit with the VW AFM. Not like fall on your face dead kinda choking, just enough above 5500 that I switched it. I want to use larger injectors with this setup, and a 2.0 liter motor, with cams, header and 50mm intake. I think that a rising rate FPR is the ticket... Build up your Fuel pressure, your injectors, if large enough spray more fuel, to compinsate for the extra air. No real need to go digi 1, unless you see boost in your future.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (rocco8v)*

i agree totally. but interesting u say..u ran stoich above 5500 with the bmw unit and stock injectors? so i guess the bigger injectors can add more fun, but the digis can hang up the too, eh rocco?


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## 16vDigiGti (Aug 23, 2005)

well my fuel rail is ordered, the fpr adapter and my injector cups, on the 2.0L 16v the blue fuel hose is the supply line right?


----------



## Gabe. (Apr 29, 2004)

does the fuel injector harness go on the same direction that it was on the 8v engine?


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## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (Royale10)*

yes.


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## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (MBRACKLIFFE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MBRACKLIFFE* »_Blue is the return line and connects to the FPR.

only a couple posts up.... gotta read whats i here - beats asking whats been answered!


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## Gabe. (Apr 29, 2004)

alright then i dont know why my car won't start. i have fuel and i have spark. the ignition timing is spot on but i havnt checked the base timing which i hope isnt what is screwed up. it could be the ****ty bosch platinums in the engine. i guess next on my list is a compression test. are there any sensors that i might have forgotten about that need to be plugged in for the car to start.


_Modified by Royale10 at 1:27 AM 9-3-2005_


----------



## rocco8v (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: (Royale10)*

Just to post a slight update, my 1.8 liter is dead, and the 2.0 liter is in it's place. I got the 2.0 liter started last night around 4 a.m. and it sounded like it was getting no oil. I will be pulling the pan and checking things out tomorrow. One question I do have. Can I take the ISVoff, plug the holes for the ISV, the vacuum nipple on the bottom of the manifold, and run an external breather for the breather unit with no adverse effects to idle, or mixture? I think i have a leak, and the intake I am using has no spot for the ISV to connect. If i remove the isv, plug the holes at the drivers side of the manifold, and plug the hole on the passenger side (the little nipple underneath the manifold), would it work? If I can eliminate all the electronic Idle stuff, and go back to ignition timing, that would be great!!!
To answer the injector comment, yes,, I guess it would add more fun. I figure, with more pressure behind the injectors, they spray just a little more, so a lrger injector (not too large) would make things great. I am looking for green tops to try. I was running a 1.8 liter as opposed to the 2.0 liter, so things might change with the displacment change. We shall see.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (rocco8v)*

Yes your car can run without the ISV if you are using the digi2 throttle body tune it with the advance screw. But wheni did it i noticed a large difference in gas milage. so more than likely its making the computer go to a limp mode. I would personally rather have the ISV working . .but i have 5 and none of them work.


----------



## docspeed1 (Apr 26, 2002)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

I got mine running today so I thought I'd share my experiences. It runs AWESOME. Idle is rock steady, starts good cold and hot. Good throttle response with just a hint of "digi lag". The low rev limit is a non issue for me. My engine is completely stock and there is little reason to run it past 6500 rpm. I consider it a safety feature for my 260 000 km motor. 
My car is a factory 16v car, and I just got tired of chasing down problems with the overly complex and cluttered/ugly motronic system. I chose to convert to Digi 2 because I have lots of experience with Digi 2 in 8v cars and in my experience it is a very simple, VERY reliable system.

I'm running an adjustable fuel pressure regulator with stock VAM and injectors, a BBM fuel rail, and digi 2 ISV. Crankcase is vented to a catchcan with filter. Fuel pressure is about 3.5 bar, and seems good, maybe a bit rich, so tomorrow I'll play with it and see what happens. 
VAM and ignition timing are set at stock digi specs. 
I'm not running an O2 sensor, and this makes tuning easier because every tweak actually affects A/F. With the O2 in place, the system keeps returning to factory "economy" settings. I'll take some pics and post them up tomorrow if I have time.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (docspeed1)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## rocco8v (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: (rychas1)*

Well, success is bittersweet. I got the oil thing figured out, but now it smokes, and stalls. I go tthe motor to run like a demon, it pulls nice, but the problem is, it smokes real bad. Compression checked out to 170psi across all 4, without and veriations, but we think a bad head gasket might be causing the problem. I know it sounds wierd, but we are at a loss. It idles a little lumpy for stock internals, and i think a little water in the cylinders would cause the smoke, and make the idle strange. It also vibrates more than the 1.8 liter ever did... and the breather is puffing smoke too!!!!!!
Any help is appriciated. I am going to order the head set, and do it, but if anyone can think of anything, please let me know...
Here is the set up:
2.0 liter 16v motor (from an Auto Passat)
BMW 535i AFM
BBM Fuel rail
Stock injectors
K&N/Kaputsport Intake
Autotech catback exhaust
AUG trans
3.5 bar FPR
NGK Iridium Plugs
Autotech Wires
Stock internals
In a 92 GTI that was origionally a digi II 8v
ISV is deleted, breather vents to intake.


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## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

could it be timing?


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

i dont think timing would cause the smoking isue. and if you have good compression all around then it "shouldn't" be the head gasket. did you rebuild this head? possibly the valve seals are non existant. You;d get good compression but oil would leak down in causing the smoke when burnt. is it blue smoke?


----------



## docspeed1 (Apr 26, 2002)

*Re: (rocco8v)*

Why so much hate for the ISV in this thread?
It sounds like your biggest problems are with the motor, not the digi setup. You may get better answers outside the Digifant II FAQ's. With that said, a head gasket is a possibility.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (docspeed1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *docspeed1* »_Why so much hate for the ISV in this thread?
It sounds like your biggest problems are with the motor, not the digi setup. You may get better answers outside the Digifant II FAQ's. With that said, a head gasket is a possibility.


I hate ISV's with a firey passion because i have 6 and none of them work. I love them when they actually do work, but mine never do


----------



## docspeed1 (Apr 26, 2002)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

I know they're a trouble spot, but amazingly after owning 4 different MK2's, I've never had a moments trouble with one. Three of the four cars were long term daily drivers with lots o miles on them too. weird.


----------



## rocco8v (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: (docspeed1)*

The smoke is white, smeels like coolant, and gets worse when it gets hot. The commpression is all good, but if one cylinder has got a slight coolant leak in it from the gasket, than it would smoke. The motor was bought as a whole unit, and not cracked open, just rear main seals and front main seals replaced, and reassembled. I am going to pull the head, and buy a head set, and just do it.
As for the timing, cam and crank timing is on. We checked it 12 times. Ignition timing was fiddled with to get it to idle, and for good power. One more thing of note. The coolant really didn't go down far, just a little as it was run for about 30 minutes from cold. The thermostant (new OEM 160 degree unit) opened, and the fan switch turned on, than off. It seemed to check out fine. I have plenty of spark.
I'll keep the group posted.


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## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (rocco8v)*

unless you already have some ARP - the headbolts are 1x use!!
get a set of undercut ARP studs from http://www.Summitracing.com for $120
Oh, and use the A3 steel layered headgasket.....
PS - hope the block isnt cracked - look in all the bores just in case to check


_Modified by OhioBenz at 9:32 PM 9-4-2005_


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## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (rocco8v)*

i vote headgasket tooo. but i also noted u dont have a chip. that would help u tremendously http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 918vwolfs (Jul 7, 2003)

*Re: (rychas1)*

I just want to thank every one for the great post and this great forums.
I have a 97 ABA lower end with a 1.8 8v head in a 91 2 door Jetta.
I have a P&P head,beched flowed 25%,3 ang.,G60 inj.,276 TT and springs, cam.ag.cam gear,TT chip,abd intake,cone filter,a 944 fpr, lower end was all ARP bolts mains,rods,head,every thing new and cleaned,TT Ex 2 1/4 cat back, tran.a9, cluch PP 2.0 16v liten fly wheel{8bl}with A/C.
riding in the sun being cooling sunny hot FL.{keep some parts from the 8v G 60 inj,tt chip intake,944 fpr,8bl fly wheel, and the A/C pump fab it to fit the 16v.will get blowing cold tomarro.
just sold my 8v had a 2.0 16v to put in just got done 2 days runs nice i want to do a intake cam and 1.8 16v head.
I just want to say THANKS EVERY ONE.





















fells like a new car. 
Thanks Dean


----------



## lexsebas (Jan 18, 2005)

*Re: (rocco8v)*

try using a stock digi afm this happened to me once when my car was still an 8v i have a bmw one and cant get it to operate correctly, but that could very well be your culprit.. easy to change too


----------



## docspeed1 (Apr 26, 2002)

*Re: (docspeed1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *docspeed1* »_ It runs AWESOME... I'll take some pics and post them up tomorrow if I have time.









Here's a pic. First time using this host so I hope they work.


----------



## docspeed1 (Apr 26, 2002)

*Re: (rychas1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rychas1* »_i vote headgasket tooo. but i also noted u dont have a chip. that would help u tremendously http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

While I don't dispute that a chip burned more specifically for a 16v may have some performance benefits, it is definitely not necessary to get the system to run PROPERLY. Mine is proof enough of that for me. It starts, idles, and all around performs exactly as intended. Not "good enough until I get around to tuning it some more". Perfectly, as is. The key is to make sure you are starting with a properly funtioning system. If it runs well on the 8v it comes from, there is no reason it wouldn't work just as well on the 16v.
Also, just for those that are curious about 16v/8v CTS compatability, I am using the 16v sensor.
I am also using the 16v hall sending unit, and there has been some dispute about this as well.
Big thanks to Cam (CWS Tuning, the same guy that built the Coupe de Golf)for help with the final install. I didn't have the correct CE2 chassis harness, so he worked his wizardry to hook up the ECU to the existing Motronic chassis harness.


_Modified by docspeed1 at 10:35 AM 9-5-2005_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (docspeed1)*

im using the 8v hall unit, but it seems fine.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (rychas1)*

el crapo. car started running a bit leaner than usual today. instead of fluctuating from green to red (AF duostyling gauge), it kinda goes from stoich to red..and when i hit it, it doesnt jump to rich. weather changes? or something else going out?


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## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

test ur O2 and CTS, two things that directly affect the AF ratio.


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## rocco8v (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

I do have a chip, and the head was never seperated from the body. I still have a 2.0 liter head gasket from an ABA I'll throw in. ARP headstuds are going in as well. 
As for the summit racing link, please read my signature. I sell ARP as well as a hundred other tuning products, as well as own a performance business. The only reason I posted the problem, is it has us stumped. This is not a 'normal" problem. Most times, oil and water mix, the coolant boils over, and you can tell the motor is overheating because you can fry an egg on it in 30 seconds flat.
This is not the case. As a matter of fact, it is the exact oppisite. It idles when started, but once you put load on it, it stalls un less rev'ed. The coolant did'nt go down fast, and didn't mix with oil, but we still think it is a head gasket. Maybe we caught it at the start of the problem getting bigger. We shall see.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

the dreaded O2 and CTS (shutters).....


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (rocco8v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rocco8v* »_I do have a chip, and the head was never seperated from the body. I still have a 2.0 liter head gasket from an ABA I'll throw in. ARP headstuds are going in as well. 

Maybe it was overheated prior to your purchase of it. VW fan circuit & relays are pretty notorious. 
Sorry that I mentioned Summit - they are 40 min from me so I use them all the time for motors I build.


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## 16vDigiGti (Aug 23, 2005)

can someone tell me what to unplug from the fuse boxes off both my cars.
i have the 88 Digi 2 8v that i'm getting the harness for the conversion off of
and
i have the 92 16v Gti that its going into


----------



## docspeed1 (Apr 26, 2002)

*Re: (16vDigiGti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16vDigiGti* »_can someone tell me what to unplug from the fuse boxes off both my cars.
i have the 88 Digi 2 8v that i'm getting the harness for the conversion off of
and
i have the 92 16v Gti that its going into

Unfortunately, it won't be a simple plug'n'play operation, as the '88 digi car does not have CE2, and the 92 16v does. You may be better off with a wiring diagram and just using the chassis harness from the Motronic car to splice into the Digi engine harness. Thats what I did even though both cars were CE2 because I did not rob the chassis harness from the parts car before I got it hauled away.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

yes those fuseboxes are totally different


----------



## 16vDigiGti (Aug 23, 2005)

can someone help me with the splicing?
i have the engine harness off of both cars.
i noticed they were different
Motronic Harness has 3 yellow plugs etc.
Digi harness has green yellow and blue plugs i believe
does anyone have a diagram of how to splice them


----------



## Gabe. (Apr 29, 2004)

*Re: (Royale10)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Royale10* »_alright then i dont know why my car won't start. i have fuel and i have spark. the ignition timing is spot on but i havnt checked the base timing which i hope isnt what is screwed up. it could be the ****ty bosch platinums in the engine. i guess next on my list is a compression test. are there any sensors that i might have forgotten about that need to be plugged in for the car to start.

_Modified by Royale10 at 1:27 AM 9-3-2005_


anyone have any ideas? i dont have the car with me but it will be nice to have a couple ideas when the time comes.


----------



## Bert_23 (Mar 13, 2005)

*Re: (Royale10)*

This is Gregus on someone else's account. It wont start with a bad MAF, or an unplugged one. Thats all I can think of if you have checked spark to the plug If you havent checked spark past the distributor then your hall sender could be toast which happens a lot. Check those things I'd say.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Edit: by gregus i mean "veedubinit" i am gregus on other sites and i always forget my name is different on this one.










_Modified by Bert_23 at 1:29 PM 9-9-2005_


----------



## Gabe. (Apr 29, 2004)

thanks man, when i get to the car again ill check that out


----------



## 16vDigiGti (Aug 23, 2005)

*Re: (16vDigiGti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16vDigiGti* »_can someone help me with the splicing?
i have the engine harness off of both cars.
i noticed they were different
Motronic Harness has 3 yellow plugs etc.
Digi harness has green yellow and blue plugs i believe
does anyone have a diagram of how to splice them


anyone care to help out a helpless little female?


----------



## docspeed1 (Apr 26, 2002)

*Re: (16vDigiGti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16vDigiGti* »_

anyone care to help out a helpless little female?

I replied to your IM...
and the helpless female part is lame.


----------



## lexsebas (Jan 18, 2005)

*Re: (rocco8v)*

try using a stock digi afm this happened to me once when my car was still an 8v i have a bmw one and cant get it to operate correctly, but that could very well be your culprit.. easy to change too


----------



## mxman (Jul 31, 2003)

*Re: (lexsebas)*

docspeed, helpless female part is the best part.....haha just cause you are married dont ruin it for the other forum kids!


----------



## 16vDigiGti (Aug 23, 2005)

*Re: (mxman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mxman* »_docspeed, helpless female part is the best part.....haha just cause you are married dont ruin it for the other forum kids!
















http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## docspeed1 (Apr 26, 2002)

*Re: (mxman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mxman* »_docspeed, helpless female part is the best part.....haha just cause you are married dont ruin it for the other forum kids!
















Dude! She's in NY! Grab a map and do some figurin!


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (docspeed1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *docspeed1* »_ Dude! She's in NY! Grab a map and do some figurin!









and how do u know if anyone really is who they say they are anyway?? LOL - thats how they bust pedophiles......


----------



## toplessvw (Jul 31, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

so I have read all of this and ordered my fuel rail today, but still have some questions. What kind of power should I expect(the same as motronic?) and what chip will work with out premiem gas? any help is appriciated


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (toplessvw)*

a stock 2.0-16v is 10.8:1 CR - it requires that you run premium. i get away with Plus most of the time, but regular? your engine will knock so bad and set back your timing that it will be worse than motronic i think...


----------



## docspeed1 (Apr 26, 2002)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*

Yep, regular is a no no. I do think that the stock digi 2 timing curve is a bit conservative though. With Motronic, I had to run premium to avoid pinging. Now with Digi 2, I can get away with mid grade. I would like to try a chip with more agressive timing maps as I feel this may help my mid range. It pulls as strong or stronger up top, but I feel I have lost some mid range with Digi 2.
Assuming a properly functioning Motronic system VS a properly functioning Digi system, power output should be close to the same. I gained a bunch of power, as my equation did not include a "properly functioning" motronic system.


----------



## 16vDigiGti (Aug 23, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (docspeed1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *docspeed1* »_... as my equation did not include a "properly functioning" motronic system.

amen to that


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (16vDigiGti)*

well heres a new developement. My digi2 was running like hell i couldnt get it to idle i think because of a wiring problem, so i just left the ISV hooked up but unplugged it and i got the best gas milage i have ever gotten out of it. 630km to this tank .. and i didnt even baby it the whole time.
But as a new developement i may be moving to the digi1 world and running an aba 16v with boost.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (veedubinit)*

yea..so i was on my way home and my did something weird..
ihungwithansvtfocusdoortodoorat80mphandwascreepinawaycoughcough! who said that? anyway my car was getting a little rich when i floor it. is that normal? yay digi2!


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

yea once your full throttle switch gets hit then the O2 sensor goes into a constant loop and the car runs rich. its normal. but it depends on how rich. a little bit is normal. like smoking like a diesel is not.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (veedubinit)*

just some thoughts.....
car was acting up as usual. occassionally dying upon startup, just running a bit ruff.
so today i gave it a good tuneup.
1. spark plugs and wires
2. cleaned hall sender connector (was oddly soaked with oil leaking from dist cap)
3. cleaned dist cap
4. electrical cleaner on afm connector and hall sender
5. new coolant sensor (blue)
6. was gonna do oil, but this is the second time i failed to remove that stupid oil filter







so i held off on that.
7. idle screw o-ring

was i noticed after....
1. didnt die after startup
2. purrs like a kitten
3. idle is rock solid, none of that bouncing crap
4. just smooth....








so..not sure what exactly did the trick for now, but take these tips.


_Modified by rychas1 at 6:58 PM 9-24-2005_


----------



## rocco8v (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

After much complications, mine is back, and better than ever.
It is a 1.8 liter, with AUG trans, bahn brenner fuel rail, stock injectors, ABD Big bore, BMW AFM, K&N 9" filter, 42mm intake manifold, stock internals, Autotech catback exhaust.....
And man does it pull hard... It was a little wet today while I was figuring out a charging problem, and I took it out... spun through fourth!!!!!
No ISV, breather attached to intake. WOW!


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rocco8v)*

man i gotta hook up my bmw unit







btw rocco, got any pics of how u mounted it?


----------



## rocco8v (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

I have some pics, but because I have a big bore, and a 9" long K&N... there is no mounting... it hangs in the air. The big bore really helped to stabilize the intake.... I'll take pics tomorrow, and if anyone wants them, email me at [email protected] and I'll send them out.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

was i noticed after....
*1. didnt die after startup* 
replying to my own post....i spoke too soon. but there onlyone thing left to do......O2 sensor. pricing that as i type.


----------



## nitrous16v (Jan 16, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

i just spoke with AMS advanced motorsport solutions and they still offer digi chip/ecu upgrades , rev limit is increased to 7000rpms and on the dyno they gained 11hp in the mid range and 8 hp peak. the dyno chart shows 93hp/105 ft/lbs tq stock and 102hp and 108ft/lbs tq with AMS chip/ecu upgrade. you need to send your ecu to them. application are 
1987 1/2 to 1992 49state golf/jetta
1987 1/2 to 1990 california golf/jetta
1990-1992 cabrio
their contact info is.
AMS
1-310-763-8000
http://www.amspower.com
SHOULD WORK WITH 16V CONVERSIONS!!!!!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (nitrous16v)*

is the upgrade still 200 bux?


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (nitrous16v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nitrous16v* »_ the dyno chart shows 93hp/105 ft/lbs tq stock and 102hp and 108ft/lbs tq with AMS chip/ecu upgrade.

What are the numbers for a 16v cos those numbers are the same as for stock Digi 8v.......


----------



## nitrous16v (Jan 16, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*

not sure on the pricing,and the dyno #s are for 8v, but why would you even consider doing the digi conversion on a 16v since the stock digi rev limiter is like 6200rpms. you would want the ams chip and the 7k rev limit with the 16v. and the gains should be as good if not better.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*

ask .... what a minute. someone posted up a digi216v dyno sheet a while back. im thinking it was djsuperchink, but he was running a digifast chip. he had 140 whp and his airfuel sucked.







i think digiracer gave us a dyno, but if i recall, he was 8v. lets get a dyno up! it maybe just me, but i am almost certain that there is a dyno sheet or #s somewhere in this thread buried under piles of posts. 
on the chip note, AMS definintely sounds like future investment, but for right now, SNS does the job berybery well.


----------



## 90chedda (Dec 6, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

you are the man very nice wright up i am getting ready to do the 16v conversion on my 2dr 90 jetta digi.was wondering what kind of performance you get out of it.and how is every day driving.i read the digi 16v conv bumps the 16v 135hp rating to a 150hp rating read it in eurotuner mag.IS IT FAST







please let me know


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (90chedda)*

Its very quick. i have alightened flywheel and a regular 8v tranny, and my 16v is old and tired but its still just a little quicker than a mk4 1.8t. but of course once they mod something thats pretty much it. But make no mistake its very quiclk and you'll be very happy with it.


----------



## 89JettaCoupe (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (veedubinit)*

Does anybody have a high pitched whistling noise when they let off the throttle with this digi2 setup?


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (89JettaCoupe)*

what like a bad bearing? cant say i do.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (89JettaCoupe)*

like a BOV?


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rychas1* »_like a BOV?









cant say i hear that...... yet







wait till next summer http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## karmann16v (Sep 12, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rychas1* »_ask .... what a minute. someone posted up a digi216v dyno sheet a while back. im thinking it was djsuperchink, but he was running a digifast chip. he had 140 whp and his airfuel sucked.







i think digiracer gave us a dyno, but if i recall, he was 8v. lets get a dyno up! it maybe just me, but i am almost certain that there is a dyno sheet or #s somewhere in this thread buried under piles of posts. 
on the chip note, AMS definintely sounds like future investment, but for right now, SNS does the job berybery well.









I think you might be refering to my dyno sheet. The sheet was without the digifast chip which has since been installed (couldn't get it to run right with the chip at time of dyno) and fueling has been corrected. Haven't dynoed since so there is probably more there now.
Last week it ran a 15.3 quarter at 90mph. The 60 foot time sucked, no traction. LSD next







. Should make 14's.
Here's the sheet again.










_Modified by karmann16v at 12:44 PM 10-4-2005_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (karmann16v)*

that be da one im talkin bout.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (rychas1)*

heres the upper radiator hose with built-in connector for water temp sensor ive been talking about for so long. 








and thanks to my library skills (yeayea)..i researched and found out its the upper rad hose from a 96-99 jetta tdi 1.9. autohausaz and pap parts carries it. just something different for this type of setup.


_Modified by rychas1 at 7:26 AM 11-25-2005_


----------



## 16V-Sauger (Aug 9, 2005)

what rpm`s are you driving? is anyone above 8000rpm with DF2?


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (16V-Sauger)*

I htink 7200 was the highest i heard. I know a guy locally who could rev reallly high lke a honda but i dont think he was running digi2.


----------



## nitrous16v (Jan 16, 2004)

*Re: (16V-Sauger)*

7700 with motronic 2.0l 16v and tt chip w/schrick 268s


----------



## 16V-Sauger (Aug 9, 2005)

is there any chance to get a DF2 eprom in US with a rev limiter above 8000? in germany everybody says that it is not possible to push the limiter







and i need a ecu for the first testing before i put a MS into


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (16V-Sauger)*

somebody can correct me if im wrong, but i think because of the nature of the design....economy...i dont think d2 wil go that high, regardless of that chip or mods u have. its just not meant to go that fast. i think the chips that were made thus far probably exceed the upper limits of d2, so above that, only God knows, but i would just go standalone for the really high revs. not all is toast tho...if d1 can go 8000+, maybe there is a chance.














ah..the unknown! gotta love it.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (rychas1)*

ok need some help here. since the weather begin changing, car seems to hit deadspots from 2k-3.5k, then after that it just sings! im wondering why the missing? its not backfiring or sputtering, but its just not 'smoooth' in that range, if that makes any sense. maybe its just the cold weather, maybe its just me, maybe ..... any ideas?


----------



## 89JettaCoupe (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (rychas1)*

I finally got my swap all up and running, a little lag at lower RPMs, although that did improve with the addition of my digifast (CSW) chip. My tach pegs the 7000 rpm top of my tach before fuel cutoff hits. Quite a rush to see it that far into redline before shifting, something I would of NEVER done with my 8V. (I am running a 1.8L 16V) I also have a whine/whistle noise whenever I let off the throttle... which is REALLY annoying and I cannot for the life of me figure out where it is, I am guessing it's a leak somewhere on the intake manifold? 
Also I wish I would of had this BMW AFM ever since I bought the car. My 8V would have put down a much better amount of power with it. I now can run at stoich all the way up to 7000 rpm if I want to now. (Depending on how I have things adjusted) One of the main things hindering power with my digi2 8V was the fact that after 4200 rpm my air/fuel ratio dropped almost off the chart when I had it up on the dyno before I swapped in the 16V. So I would highly recommend it to anybody planning or having already done this 16V digi2 conversion.










_Modified by 89JettaCoupe at 5:17 PM 10-24-2005_


----------



## karmann16v (Sep 12, 2003)

*Re: (89JettaCoupe)*

Cant read chart (kinda cloudy) what numbers did it make.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (karmann16v)*

can u scan the printout?
BTW Jeff did you ever get any numbers off ur cabby?
Just called Chris and hes going to swing by in a bit...


----------



## karmann16v (Sep 12, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OhioBenz* »_can u scan the printout?
BTW Jeff did you ever get any numbers off ur cabby?
Just called Chris and hes going to swing by in a bit...

I was talking to Chris a couple of minutes ago, said you met last night.
What kinda numbers you looking for.
BTW
I got best sport compact and 2nd in paint at the show you were at.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

Chris said you had it on the Dyno, did you post your stats? 
Glad you won.... of course the boys & i put our ballots in








Nathan got some decent digitals if you want them.


----------



## karmann16v (Sep 12, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

Its on the previous page. 139.7 whp, 120 ft/lbs. But the fueling sucks. That has since been sorted as well as some other ods and ends. My estimate is 155-160 whp.
You can email pics if you want, no big deal though.
Sorry bout the weather.







Hope you had a good time here.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (karmann16v)*

Are you planning to do another dyno run? What did you do to sort it out? Personally I've been a bit disappointed at the posted numbers from 16v Digi-2 setups because it seems like a lot of work for virtually no gains.
For being as remote as you guys are - at least you got a dyno around LOL!
I'm going to try to get some numbers before I do the Digi-1 swap.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

no gains??? are you crazy? I hope you mean between the cis and digi2. Cause I used to have an 8v well the gains are astronomical for the work done. Its not event he same car before and after. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

yea vbn, i thought i had gas in my eyes and misread that post as well. no gains??? hardly!


----------



## 89JettaCoupe (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (rychas1)*

My scan, the blurry one is of my old 8V, which was putting down a very respectable 96hp to the wheels, and 114 ft-lbs of torque, (that was in stock form w/ csw chip. I hope to be getting my 16V digi2 up on the dyno to compare once one of the local places has a cheap dyno day. Which I think may be coming up here shortly.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

Let me clarify the "no gains' statement. i understand and am well aware of the great gains of 8v Digi-2 to 16v Digi-2, thats a no brainer!
Th factory stated HP of the 9A 2.0-16v with Motronic CIS-E is 135 IIRC, I am running a TT chip, 1.8 head and some exhaust work. I am sure that even tho it has 230K on the clock i can still put down close to the old factory numbers. The car goes as CPR would say "like stink" and most VR's have a hard time getting me off their tailpipe unless they run a charger or NOS.
If a Digi-2 "uprade" gets me the numbers i see posted here, it only convinces me more to do the Digi-1 with more mapping capability. Since my GLI is a '90 its all plug-n-play anyway.
Hope that clarifies my statement.......








All that said , I have an '87 Coupe Digi-2 8v that will probly go the digi-2 16v route because it is so much more convenient.


----------



## 89JettaCoupe (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

It seems my setup likes to run a little on the rich side, I have played with the CO adjustment a bit trying to bring that down with no such luck. When I try and adjust the spring tension on the BMW AFM one notch from where it is right now to tell the engine it's getting less air and needs to put in less fuel, it will start... but bogs down about 400 rpm and i have to keep on the throttle to keep it from killing itself. Any ideas of some adjustments that I might be able to make?


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (89JettaCoupe)*

The adjustment you'd want to make if away from digi2. I am moving to digi1 because digi2 is not ment to be tuned. . .mine also runs rich.


----------



## karmann16v (Sep 12, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

I started with a 8v digi 2 car so the swap to 16v digi 2 was dead simple. Plug-n-play yes. 
I'm pretty sure the factory rating of 135 is engine horsepower. To date I have dynoed near 140 wheel horsepower. The estimates of wheel horsepower now is in the 155 to 160 range. Given a not so generous parsitic loss of 10% for gear box, clutch axles and stuff. that would equate to about 176 engine horsepower. Thats more or less what eairlier VR6 and 1.8T are putting out. Street tests by me show its quicker than both. Sure goes better than the 8V I hauled out of it .
Like I said the digi swap was dead easy, thats why I used it. You could call it a stepping stone to digi 1, I have access to most pieces, It'll be a winter project.


----------



## 16V-Sauger (Aug 9, 2005)

*Re: (karmann16v)*

which gearbox do you use? 020 or 02A?
020 is about 16hp lost in the transmission and the 02A is about 30hp


----------



## karmann16v (Sep 12, 2003)

*Re: (16V-Sauger)*

It's the factory aug box whatever that is.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (karmann16v)*

the AUG is an 020 box. I swapped an 02A in my GLI just because I feel the new motor I'm building was going to torch the stock box. I've already gone through two 2Y boxes.
Just wondering if the parasitic loss for the 02A setup is higher because the stock flywheel is 10lbs heavier than the 020 one?


----------



## karmann16v (Sep 12, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OhioBenz* »_the AUG is an 020 box. I swapped an 02A in my GLI just because I feel the new motor I'm building was going to torch the stock box. I've already gone through two 2Y boxes.
Just wondering if the parasitic loss for the 02A setup is higher because the stock flywheel is 10lbs heavier than the 020 one?

And if it is, can you just lighten the flywheel and get back some of the loss.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

That's already done








http://www.hotdub.com/pictures...um=35


_Modified by OhioBenz at 10:43 PM 10-28-2005_


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

Whats up guys, I am having an issue persay. I cant figure out why my car won't run will all the stock components plugged in.
I checked my ISV and it works, when its plugged in my car will start then stall. If i hit it with some throttle to keep it alive then it starts really quickly bouncing from 1 to 3 grand. 
So heres the big question, does anyone know what other electronic components directly effect idle??? I am thinking that possibly the closed throttle sensor wire might be broken, would this cause such a wonky thing to happen? need some thoughts here


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

since its throttle related, try swapping in a carbon free TB, and see if that helps. something sounds like its sticking. or ur suggestion too. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif keep us digi2 fokes posted!


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (rychas1)*

its not throttle related. Its electronics related.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

this may or may not relate....
on my Motronic 16v i had a similar issue and here is what i found:
The system has a built-in fuel cut-out program that activates when engine rpm is in excess of (i believe) 2000 rpm and the IPS throttle switch is closed. This shuts off fuel if you are coasting down a mountain or something with your foot off the gas & still doin 70mph....
I would be surprised if the Digi did not have a similar safety/emissions feature in it.
Now it determines the rpm from the Tach signal and of course the IPS determines if throttle is open or closed. So either a bad Tach signal or bad IPS could cause the same issue.
What I did to allow me to drive the car sounds weird - but it worked till i found a new IPS... I unplugged the CTS coolant temp sensor which in effect puts the ECU in a cold run mode where it looks for a limited data until it sees the coolant temp signal.
As soon as i replaced the IPS the problem was gone. Meanwhile I had looked at pretty much everything else without fixing it.
With Digi-2 the only other thing i can think of is the VAM either sticking or the wiper/potentiometer circuitry being bad - which you can test with a multi-meter.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

Yea see wheni unplug my ISV and manually adjust my idle with the screw, i can get it to run without issues once its warm. ofcourse cold it wont run at all.
So does anyone know what the computer does when the ISV is unplugged? does it ignore certain other sensors that work with the isv to make an idle? such as that closed throttle sensor??if thats the case i could trouble shoot the items the work solely with the ISV to make an idle, and insure the wiring is correct and the sensor is functional.Anyone know?


----------



## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

Just an update since it has been sometime now that I originally wrote the FAQ.
I was doing some tuning today to try and sort out a rough idle. Basically the idle sucked when it was between 900 and 1000 RPM the only solution seems to be to go higher or lower. The stock setting is at 850 but I found that alot of the time it would drift up into the rough idle range. 
Anyways I checked my timing again for like the thousandth time and it was fine but I decided to try advancing it a little. I am not sure exactly how far I advanced it but I would say around 10 or 12 degrees. I then readjusted the to about 800. First off the idle is now great, nice and smooth. Second the power hits much harder and at lower RPM do to the Timing being advanced, I am getting a slight pinging on acceleration so I may notch it back a few degrees but I am not going back down to 7 BTDC. 
The driveability is much improved as is throttle response and power.
I tried another little mod that I will go into when I get some pictures but basically it scared me. I wasn't expecting the extra power and I lit up chirped the tires without trying.
What I did was to cut a piece of thick vacuum hose to about 3/8" long and sliced it lengthwise to open it up. I then placed it into the slot in the throttle body linkage that opens up the second butterfly. Normally the small butterfly opens first and then the second. By placing the rubber hose in the slot I forced the bigger butterfly to open much sooner. I tried differnet lengths for experimentation purposes until I found one I liked. The Torque down low is massively improved. You have to use rubber or a spring or something though to prevent problems at wide open throttle but I am still looking into this more.
Pics to come soon.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (MBRACKLIFFE)*

sounds interesting. I have always run my timing 7deg advanced. its the best by far if you have a good timing gun http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Do you knwo what might be causing my problems?


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (veedubinit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *veedubinit* »_So does anyone know what the computer does when the ISV is unplugged? does it ignore certain other sensors that work with the isv to make an idle? such as that closed throttle sensor??if thats the case i could trouble shoot the items the work solely with the ISV to make an idle, and insure the wiring is correct and the sensor is functional.Anyone know?









AS far as I know the ISV is only an output - and has no feedback capabilities. So when you unplug it, it closes. Not running when cold would seem to be a CTS issue - because the ISV adds more air and by leaning the mixture increases the rpm. The CTS determines the richness of the mixture during cold operation only. I would check it if you havent already.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

interesting .. i did change that a little while back. But i mean withthe ISV plugged in it runs when cold butit does the ol rev bounce till it kills itself. it only straight dies whenthe ISV is unplugged and its cold. And it even sometimes stalls if i let it try to catch itself from a higher rpm like 2 or so. Maybei should just change the blue coolant again and see if that helps. But realistically i shouldnt be going through cts's like that. something else would have to be wrong. maybe its becausei had a leaky old distributor before i got my shiny new one.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

maybe the ISV is OK - i think you should do the Bentley check that does a pin-to-pin at the ECU connectors. That doesnt take a lot of time, and will let you check all the sensors, switches etc. that way u can eliminate wiring issues.
i did it on one of the Motronics and found broken wires inside of the insulation in 3 different places - one of them being at the distributor about 3" from the plug, the others at the MAF position potentiometer.
just make sure your multi-meter has thin prongs so you dont deform the connectors at the ECU plug.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

my isv IS okay. . .i know this because i tested it on another car. So that why i asked what having that plugged in does, and what unplugging it will do to the system. I dont have a multi-meter


----------



## karmann16v (Sep 12, 2003)

*Re: (MBRACKLIFFE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MBRACKLIFFE* »_Just an update since it has been sometime now that I originally wrote the FAQ.
I was doing some tuning today to try and sort out a rough idle. Basically the idle sucked when it was between 900 and 1000 RPM the only solution seems to be to go higher or lower. The stock setting is at 850 but I found that alot of the time it would drift up into the rough idle range. 
Anyways I checked my timing again for like the thousandth time and it was fine but I decided to try advancing it a little. I am not sure exactly how far I advanced it but I would say around 10 or 12 degrees. I then readjusted the to about 800. First off the idle is now great, nice and smooth. Second the power hits much harder and at lower RPM do to the Timing being advanced, I am getting a slight pinging on acceleration so I may notch it back a few degrees but I am not going back down to 7 BTDC. 
The driveability is much improved as is throttle response and power.


I've got mine set at 8 deg. No ping and significant power improvement. Idles at about 850. 
Everyone loves the idle, smooth yet purposeful. you definately know the cams are in there (268's).


----------



## .logical.progression. (Jul 15, 2005)

ive got a '91 gti 8v...what year motors should i be looking for?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (.logical.progression.)*

88-92 PL or 9a engine codes. or mix and match!









_Quote »_*veedubinit*

sorry...ur problem was over my head, but i am paying attn to the responses.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (veedubinit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *veedubinit* »_ I dont have a multi-meter









Radio Shack has a small cheap one for less than $20


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (.logical.progression.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.logical.progression.* »_ive got a '91 gti 8v...what year motors should i be looking for?

I think there is a significant difference in the 2.0-16v so 90+ GLI or Passat.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OhioBenz* »_
I think there is a significant difference in the 2.0-16v so 90+ GLI or Passat.

theonly difference betweenany of the 9a motors is the style of gaskets on the head. and when you buy the kit you get both anyway. so it doesnt matter. find a 2.016v and you can use it. Just when you tear it down to rebuild it, pay attention to the gaskets on the flanges on the head.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (veedubinit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *veedubinit* »_ 
theonly difference betweenany of the 9a motors is the style of gaskets on the head. and when you buy the kit you get both anyway. so it doesnt matter. find a 2.016v and you can use it. Just when you tear it down to rebuild it, pay attention to the gaskets on the flanges on the head.

the difference I was referring to is the power and torque between the 1.8-16v and the 2.0-16v. I have both and when you go from one to the other its like night & day.
he was asking which 16v - hence my suggestion to 2.0 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

yea thats my bad, I'm all over the place. I spent all day painting my winter beater with tremclad. ohhhh baby straight diesel for the winter. now you wanna talk about night and day


----------



## .logical.progression. (Jul 15, 2005)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

i found a 1.8 16v...anyone done a digi2 1.8? its got ~135k miles and supposedly runs good. the guy is asking 400. should i grab it or is he asking too much?


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (.logical.progression.)*

you should be able to find a 2.0-16v for close to that price - even a couple $100 more would be worth it IMO


----------



## .logical.progression. (Jul 15, 2005)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

anyone ever done this with a 1.8? havent seena nything about it and im really curious as to how it ran. of course the rev limiter will be a rpoblem; where can i get a chip tor aise the limiter?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (.logical.progression.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.logical.progression.* »_anyone ever done this with a 1.8? havent seena nything about it and im really curious as to how it ran. of course the rev limiter will be a rpoblem; where can i get a chip tor aise the limiter?

yes. the PL is nice up top..what specifics u wish to know? what rev limit?







AMS or SNS, good luck getting either.


----------



## Gabe. (Apr 29, 2004)

i have a digi 2 1.8 16v in my gti but unfortunately i havnt got it running yet. but if i did id tell you how she runs. i have spark and fuel but it wont start and unfortunately being up at college i have had no time to work on it. last time i saw it was august


----------



## 89JettaCoupe (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (Royale10)*

I have a 1.8 16V digi2, I'm pretty happy with it thus far. Although my tach tells me I'm redlining at 7000 rpm...







And it sure seems like I am... but I need to get another tach hooked up to see if this one might be off.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (89JettaCoupe)*

So yesterday i made a little trip and came back a happy man. I will be saying goodbye to digiII. I picked up a digi1 comp and harness from a passat syncro, and with another 16v in the garage, it appears I will be joining the booted club. Not anytime soon mind you cause i am not made of money .. but the plans have begun. On another note i found out half the problem to my digi2 running like a bag and dying all the time.
My throttle wiring for the closed switch was buggered, fixed er up and it works WAY better. But still not right, I checked everything now, and I am starting to think my computer has **** the bed. 
It's still idle creeping, and sometimes bouncing so high it kills itself. Blue coolant sensor is new, O2 sensor is working, MAF is working, ISV is working, knock is working. and I am running out of options here.
I have the ISV unplugged and adjusted the idle up a bit and once shes warm it runs mint, but I'd like ot have it idle on its own before i put her away for the winter, does ANYONE have any other ideas?


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

Just to add to yesterdays post, I HATE!! HATE HATE HATE digifant II. i just replaced the computer, ISV and MAF. .. . and it still wont work right. It works better. .. but still sometimes just shuts down. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

this mite be dumb..but have you upgraded all your grounds. im gonna do that soon. it just makes sense that it would help most our probs. just wondering.


----------



## 16V-Sauger (Aug 9, 2005)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

did you check the "CO" setting? hole in a intake seal? showered the engine while running?


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (16V-Sauger)*

no i havent upgraded my grounds, but they have all been checked, all wires are functional. but on another note, it did seem to sort itself out with the different computer, but still acts up every now and again. It will still randomly rev bounce, but not very often anymore, and sometimes if the rmp is dropped from like 2500 or around there it will sometimes just die without trying to catch itself.
What do you mean by "co setting"?? is this intake manafold or boot stuff, please explain, I'm willing to check anything at this point


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

have you ever done the Bentley continuity check? the one that has you check with a multimeter from pin to pin on the ECU connector?
if u dont have amultimeter - a small digital one is really cheap at Radio Shack or Advanced Auto...


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

yea this in my view is the last line, I'll see how it runs today, if its pretty constant then i might just say to hell with it and leave it be tillthe digi1 gets installed, but one of my buds just got a nice multimeter, so I'll borrow him for a few and run some checks. Hopefully it wont go that far


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

it covers all the bases and doesnt take much more than 1/2 hr to do. i found several things when i had probs with mine...


----------



## gli4life (Feb 22, 2002)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

hey going to dyno my digiII i6v tomorrow if my truck can manage to tow it to concord.








i'll post the numbers tomorrow night


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

Gotta love those Coupes!!!
I'm hunting for a Dyno now so I can do a b4 and after...


----------



## gli4life (Feb 22, 2002)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

so here it is, i forgot my g60 injectors and so i wasn't able to swap them in the see how much that improved the leanness.. we did play with the spring tension on the bmw vam and found it made almost no differance in my a/f ratio. gotta do some more work and try again. might just go straight to ms and skip playin with this more. 








sorry its so big i tried to make it smaller but didn't work


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (gli4life)*

u know the rules here







post specs!







is that whp?


----------



## gli4life (Feb 22, 2002)

*Re: (rychas1)*

its a stock engine with a fresh valve job on the head. 150k on the bottom end. it has k&n to a bmw vam, to a vr6 tb on a short runner intake. 2.0 injectors and a 944 fpr. and for exhaust stock mani with tt downpipe and 2.25 back no cat. and yes that was on a wheel dyno. i have no fuel inrichment chip and if i hadn't had the stock digi2 rev limiter i would probably have pulled atleast 5more hp i would hope


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

does anyone have stock dyno WHP numbers of a 2.0-16v on CIS-E Motronic?????


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (gli4life)*

hmm...for those mods, i wouldve thought maybe 10 more ponies at the wheel. and why run so small injector rates? at least the stock digi should yield more, if not so than the g60s. just wondering the reasoning, as are all learners







and yes, a chip would help greatly. and its clear to see that the short intake runners keep that torque consistant and high










_Modified by rychas1 at 5:24 PM 11-20-2005_


----------



## gli4life (Feb 22, 2002)

well to be honest i always thought my car was rich just from the smells coming from the exhaust but aparently not. i think i would have that extra 10hp if i hadn't forgotton my other injectors. now if i find a way to get my fuel correct with out a chip how much will that really help me?


----------



## 16V-Sauger (Aug 9, 2005)

try to get the injectors from a 2L 16V Opel engine. engine code is C20XE
injectors from a NA engine are much better than injectors from a G60


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (16V-Sauger)*

ummmmm we are in north america, that code doesn't exist here


----------



## 16V-Sauger (Aug 9, 2005)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

german ebay maybe?


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (16V-Sauger)*

tooshay salesmen








my car likes to just shut off. at random times if i disengage the clutch. like turning into my driveway . .flatline. . almost everytime. its re-donkyless. Also .. . sometimes when coming to a stop light. . but i have found if i drop it from 2000 while i'm still rolling it seems to go straight to idle. I think maybe a wire is the culprit, to my isv.


----------



## norcalstyle (Aug 13, 2004)

*Re: (16V-Sauger)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16V-Sauger* »_try to get the injectors from a 2L 16V Opel engine. engine code is C20XE
injectors from a NA engine are much better than injectors from a G60

the opel c20 engines are in america, see pontiac sunbird turbo (sohc c20get) they're 28lb/hr injectors(27 maybe). also NA versions are available in the sunbird, lemans, older 4 banger isuzu amigos. DOHC versions of the c20 can also be found in daewoo's, nubrias if im not misaken. they're 2.2 dohc i think....might be 2.0's though. so the engines are in the states, they're just not in opels.

PS, just got my 2.0 16v home last night, gettin it ready for the 
swap....turkey can wait.
:edit: sunbird engines are LT3 code for the turbo...i actually have some stock LT3 injectors in my closet. dont know much more off the top of my head but if anybody is interested i could very easily find out exactly what engine codes are what for the different injectors.

_Modified by norcalstyle at 11:34 AM 11-24-2005_


_Modified by norcalstyle at 11:36 AM 11-24-2005_


----------



## xEazyVR6x (Jul 12, 2005)

this may have already been answered but I haven't the time to read through all 13 paes of this thread.
what ECU do you use in this swap? is the 8v digi2 ECU going to work or do I need to source another one?
also what are the implecations of running a turbo at this setup?


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (xEazyVR6x)*


_Quote, originally posted by *xEazyVR6x* »_this may have already been answered but I haven't the time to read through all 13 paes of this thread.
what ECU do you use in this swap? is the 8v digi2 ECU going to work or do I need to source another one?
also what are the implecations of running a turbo at this setup?

All electronics are Digifant II stock, including the computer, because the MAF reads air intake amounts and the cpu compensates. The computer has no idea your not running an 8V. 
You cant run boost with digifant II because of the restrictions on the MAF meter. its a flapper door and sends richer amounts when its opened. . boost would make it run full openand the system wouldnt work. 
To boost a 16v on a stock fuel system see the digifant I forum http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## xEazyVR6x (Jul 12, 2005)

what about stuff like the speedo? do I need to swap all that over or will they plug into the ECU the same?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (xEazyVR6x)*

its the same. ur only changing the engine and immediate components to make that work, not all that other stuff. ull have fun no doubt!


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (xEazyVR6x)*

i dunno what year u r doing this in - if you have a pre-89.5 jetta/Golf then you can just drop in any GLI speedo for the 140mph/8K double connector setup
If its a later 90+ 2.0-16v then a speedo from 89.5+ GLI will work with 140mph/7K single connector speedo.
or you can just keep using the Digi 8v 120/7K speedo..........


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (xEazyVR6x)*

if you have a digi2 8v dont unplug anyhting . .just swap the motor. if you go back you'll find useful links such as this that walk you through it.
http://dhociung.www2.onlink.net/home.htm


----------



## 16vDigiGti (Aug 23, 2005)

how hard is it to swap a ce2 digi 2 harness to a ce2 motronic car? is it just like a digi 1 swap??????????




_Modified by 16vDigiGti at 6:23 PM 12-14-2005_


----------



## norcalstyle (Aug 13, 2004)

2 quick questions.
alternator, the 16v one has a plug in deal, and the 8v just has some nuts. anybody know what to do about that?








also, what are you guys doing with your breathers?
thanks


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (norcalstyle)*

just ****ing cut it off.
get the right connecter and run to the border. there you'll meet a guy named hank in a poncho. . he'll take you to the alternator layer.








Just get the right connectors cut off the old ones .. and hook up the new ones. 
forthe breather, just runt he same breather hose fomr the 9A or whatever .. and just breath it to atmosphere.


----------



## norcalstyle (Aug 13, 2004)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

thanks man, i appreciate it. i just wanted to make sure ya know. i mean, i personally dont know poncho and have never had any dealings with him, i've heard mixed reviews.








thanks for the help though man, i just wanted to make sure

did i say that i just wanted to make sure










_Modified by norcalstyle at 8:48 PM 12-2-2005_


----------



## Danbodia (Sep 3, 2003)

*Re: (norcalstyle)*

I just scanned through the whole thread, I still have a question. I may have overlooked a solution because I saw a few people dealing with the same situation.
Forgive me if I missed it, but..........
What are you guys doing to richen your mix?








AMS chipped ECU
3.5 FPR
BMW AFM (clicks adjusted on the dyno)
Digi II Injectors
Is an Adj FPR the next step?


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (Danbodia)*









stock MAF, stock computer, my solution is to leave well enough alone


----------



## Danbodia (Sep 3, 2003)

*Re: (veedubinit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *veedubinit* »_stock MAF, stock computer, my solution is to leave well enough alone
















Oddly enough, The first step after this was to replace the BMW AFM with the proper OEM one.
The AMS ECU went back to AMS to be reburned for the added diplacement and the 276 (I first had it done for the 1.8 and the 268)
But I left the 3.5 FPR in.......
Now i need to go back to the dyno....
Anybody else?....


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (Danbodia)*

its hard to say...i would go to bigger squirters, like 24, 26 or 28, but that may make u too rich! if u have the time, start at 24 and just see what happens. u have seemingly covered the other bases well.


----------



## Danbodia (Sep 3, 2003)

*Re: (rychas1)*

I think before I do anything else, I'll take it back to the dyno (or at least a wideband) and see how the OEM AFM does. It reads rich at WOT now that I switched the AFM's, so that's a good sign.
The whole project is on hold for the winter though, So I'll just pile up parts (G60 injectors) and fiddle with swapping AFM internals to keep me occupied.
Not being able to dyno it past 5200 was kind of a bummer, but why risk the motor.....










_Modified by Danbodia at 2:50 PM 12-5-2005_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (Danbodia)*

well to add to what vbn said..i left my afm at the stick settings and i still get nice and rich at WOT.







so no tellin bro. uve covered the bases. try the oem one at stock settings.


----------



## andreizloyVWb3 (Sep 27, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

Just a question, i want to swap a 9a motor in my mk2, i read your very interesting post and have some questions.
is it possible to put the whole complete motor with the ecu of a 9a into the mk2 without getting a new fuel rail and making so many changes?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (andreizloyVWb3)*

yes. but it wont run. try running digi without a fuel rail is a scary thought. the changes are necessary for a clean, fun, and safe ride.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (andreizloyVWb3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *andreizloyVWb3* »_Just a question, i want to swap a 9a motor in my mk2, i read your very interesting post and have some questions.
is it possible to put the whole complete motor with the ecu of a 9a into the mk2 without getting a new fuel rail and making so many changes?

if you MK2 is a 1990+ it has the same basic wiring as the 9A motor from the fusebox on.
You can pull a complete ECU & harness from the 9A donor car, along with the fuel distributor & airbox and install it. i would think its a lot more changes than the fuel rail and fpr swap.....
the real question is why bother?
this whole thread is about the benefits of the 9A motor connected to the EFI of the Digi-2 compared to the Motronic factory setup.


----------



## andreizloyVWb3 (Sep 27, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*

And what are those benefits?
Seriously.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (andreizloyVWb3)*

i think that the EFI is a much more consistent system than the CIS-E. It also lets you play with injector sizing, its less restrictive in airflow and as more people are experimenting with chips for Digi-2 there will be more power options.
because of the extreme mods i'm doing to my 90 GLI and A1 GTI, they are both getting the Digi-1 setup for now. My other 87 Coupe project is going Digi-2 16v because its just a basic 1.8-16v setup.
you have to evaluate each application - Digi-2 16v is just a nice and relatively easy mod for people that already have a Digi-2 car and want the extra HP of a 16v setup.
you can always opt for stand-alone - but thats a LOT more work!


----------



## norcalstyle (Aug 13, 2004)

i took my car out for its first real drive tonight...and all i have to say is that it was worth every penny.


----------



## andreizloyVWb3 (Sep 27, 2004)

*Re: (norcalstyle)*

Share this valuable information!
What and how and how much did it cost?!
Please!


----------



## norcalstyle (Aug 13, 2004)

after all is said and done, and all of the nickle and dime BS, probably 1300 or so.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

OK, how did you spend that much? Did you have to buy all the Digi stuff? I know the fuel rails and FPR isnt cheap but the rest shouldnt be that bad unless you did a bunch more work...


----------



## norcalstyle (Aug 13, 2004)

my car was already a digi 2, i bought the engine and tranny with all the accessories for 550. then the fuel rail with adapter, then axles, a gasket kit, and then a bunch of little crap that added up. 

edit, ok, i tallied it up, it was just over 1200 including gas money and everything (engine was 5 hours away, i live an hour drive away from any kind of decent parts store or junk yard, and i kept forgetting ****.) i could have done it for a lot cheaper if i didnt live in BFE.
this includes beer money


_Modified by norcalstyle at 11:28 PM 12-12-2005_


----------



## 16vDigiGti (Aug 23, 2005)

and a uick question again, :T I have a ce2 motronic car (2.0L 16v) and a ce2 digi ecu and harness from a 91 jetta, what wire goe to where on each of the harnesses? please help i've looked at the diagrams over and over but can't seem to figure it out.


----------



## Gabe. (Apr 29, 2004)

what do you have to do with the hall sensor/ distributor? i think thats whats holding me back on my swap because it wont start.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (Royale10)*

Hall senseor/distributor plugs in, same harness they are all the same.
as for any other wiring questions its pretty straight forward but everything you are running has to be compatable with your digifant 2 system. You must remember that the computer doesnt know its running a 16v. You problem with starting might very well be timing or something else. 
Heres a play by play as to hot to convert your 8v digi2 to a 16v digi2, it shoudl answer most if not all of your wiring questions:
http://dhociung.www2.onlink.net/home.htm


----------



## Gabe. (Apr 29, 2004)

hmmm so it isnt necessary to swap the 8v hall sensor in place of the 16v one? because i think mine is bad regardless. anyone know where to order that part?


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (Royale10)*

The electronic hall sender is exactly the same i have swapped them out myself. theres 2 screw ones . .and there 4 screw ones. . .all interchangable. Not sure where to get it form, depends on your location . .i got a bran new one becausei had rebuilt mind about 7 times and they just kept going. My advice is buy a new one and be done with it.


----------



## Gabe. (Apr 29, 2004)

wow new hall senders are like 150 bucks. i wish i would have snagged the extra one from my parts car when i had it. im going to check the timing on the engine when i get back home. im determined to get this mofo working.


----------



## Gabe. (Apr 29, 2004)

*Re: (Royale10)*

if the hall sensor is broken will there be any spark? im about to go out again and start working on my gti for the first time since august.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (Royale10)*

nope. . if the hall sender has no signal there is no spark, good luck


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

yea thats why mine was failing on the hwy....was soaked in oil







once cleaned, no problems.


----------



## Gabe. (Apr 29, 2004)

well one of my injector seals is leaking, the engine has really low compression, and it still wont start. timing is on, spark seemed kinda weak, im ready to push it off a cliff.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

are all cylinders low compression?


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

low compression isnt a very good sign, is it a non-functional low compression, or just low on the acceptable scale?
I'd start grab a bentley and start testing things, its worth it in the end man, seriously, keep on truckin . .you will be happy the second you go for that first drive TRUST ME, just be patient, it has to work out eventatually


----------



## Gabe. (Apr 29, 2004)

its low on the acceptable level, 125,90,110,90
this is making me want to spend the money on a vr swap


----------



## unmotivated (Nov 3, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

well, for anyone who cares, im going from euro cis to digi II.. 
I had an 87 GTI with a 2.0 16v, milled 1.8 head, euro intake cam and a tt exhaust. it put out 127.2 HP at 5,900.. And 128.2 LBSFT of torque. Id post the dyno, but i dont have a scanner..
Anyway, that car was hit, and now im putting the engine and exhaust into a 91 jetta. I should be done with the swap this week, and soon will throw it on the dyno. 
Im hoping to make more power with digi, and get rid of my drivability problems. The euro cis was a nightmare, it wouldnt idle on its own for at least 15 minutes, and always ran rich. I bought the car with it on, and ill be honest, i had no idea how to tune it. It ran so rich infact, that when i got the car it had dual DTM tips, and you could see a 7 foot high arc of fuel and exhaust coming out of it under load.








Im hoping that this will make closer to what the engine needs fuel wise and not just drown it in gas, that should make more power, right?
anyway, wish me luck, ive got the thing to run, i just need to work out some bugs and drive it (converted it from an auto while i was in there, now running an aug box).. Ill post more when i know more.










_Modified by unmotivated at 8:06 PM 12-18-2005_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (unmotivated)*

shoud kept the auto














keep us posted...we likes digi 16v conversions http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Volkswoot (Mar 9, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

ok, i'm really confused at this point trying to look throught the diagrams in my bently. today, i got the digi2 CE2 engine wiring harness to the fuse box, the fuse box itself, and the dash harnesses, switches, cluster, blah blah.. anyways, i didn't get the body harness because i didn't have time to grab it , my questuion is cant i splice my current ce1 body harness in ??? if so is there a difference in the colors of the wires ?
oh and i ready a few pages back to use the cis WOT trick for the lean condition.. the cis-e fuel enrichment mod.. 


_Modified by enebo8u at 5:23 PM 12-20-2005_


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (enebo8u)*

would have been easier to get an 87-90 CE-1 harness then you coulda plug-n-play.. the connectors from the CE-1 dont work with the CE-2 fuse box








would be more work IMO to splice than to go get a CE-1 setup.


----------



## Volkswoot (Mar 9, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*

i think i'm just gonna go back to the junk yard and snag the rest of the wiring out of the car.. i only had an hour today and the car is still complete.. so it took me a lil while. . any tips on things to get.. ?


_Modified by enebo8u at 9:02 PM 12-20-2005_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (enebo8u)*

i was reading about this in the 8v forum and wondered how it applied here...
they were saying that the idle upon startup usually goes above 1000, when cold, and then slowly works its way down to idle as the car warms up. others said the opposite, that the idle is low, below 1000, and works its way up to idle rpm once engine gets warm. my car does the latter during the cold months. i was curious to see how it compared to everyone in here. chime in.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

your digi2 system idles!















mine is messed, bump for someone else.


----------



## mafia1420 (Nov 11, 2005)

i just swaped my jetta gli 16v cis-e with a digi 2 every thing seems to be ok but when i hit the gas there is a big delay but when i drive the car it is even wosre like it is not getting enough gas help


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (mafia1420)*

sounds like the old case of retarded timing. Get a timing gun, and time it to 7 degrees advanced at the distributor. problem solved.


----------



## mafia1420 (Nov 11, 2005)

tryed that no help ya a lil but still have crappy speed up


----------



## docspeed1 (Apr 26, 2002)

*Re: (mafia1420)*

Timing, vacuum leak, bad or mis adjusted VAM, incorrect fuel pressure or bad O2 would be my first suspects. 
As an aside, we had -30 Celsius here last week, and my Digi2 16v started up like a champ without the block heater plugged in. Runs like a factory setup should. Steady idle, and only a small hint of the dreaded digi lag. 
I run with no O2 sensor, and find that careful tuning of the fuel pressure, timing and VAM tension gives good fuel economy, better responsiveness, and better mid throttle power.


_Modified by docspeed1 at 2:07 PM 12-24-2005_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (mafia1420)*

chip helps too.


----------



## Volkswoot (Mar 9, 2004)

*Re: (rychas1)*

who all makes chips for digi2 ?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (enebo8u)*








once again..
TT, AMS (custom ecu), SNS (coming soon again), Digifast, CSW, and some other unknown brands...


----------



## .logical.progression. (Jul 15, 2005)

*Re: (rychas1)*

does the tt chip raise the rev limiter? if so, how high does it raise it to? im getting a 1.8 16v for a good price and dont want to hit the limiter at 6400 rpms


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (.logical.progression.)*

i dont knwo..never used it. i only used sns and digifast. both give a greast jump in power and make it easy to go upto or past what u think is stock rev limiter. i havent hit mine yet..even at 7k+, with the sns. whowouldathunk


----------



## .logical.progression. (Jul 15, 2005)

*Re: (rychas1)*

i thought digifast didnt reaise the limiter?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (.logical.progression.)*

note...i said 'what u think is the stock limiter'. there been much debate on what that exact number is. is it the chip? is it the ecu? we cant agree. but we do agree that no 2 digi2s are alike when it comes to this issue.







enjoy!


----------



## all-starr-me (Jul 14, 2003)

*Re: (docspeed1)*

Any one using the CIS motronic ignition module when they put a 9A on Digi 2? Would this one have better timing maps for the 9A?


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (all-starr-me)*

I'm not sure if you mean the ignition coil or what, but once you change to digifant II all timing and fuel are done via the Mass air flow sensor electronically. It believes your still an 8v and just see's more air coming in. I personally have all 8v Digi2 stuff but it would make no difference what you were running ignition wise.


----------



## Gabe. (Apr 29, 2004)

well after months of debate and waiting i finally got my gti running!!! it turned out to be the spark plugs that were bad, i wasnt expecting new plugs to do anything so i was kinda startled when the car actually started.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (all-starr-me)*

u cant use the motronic module - it has no outputs for EFI.....


----------



## all-starr-me (Jul 14, 2003)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

The ignition module, the little black thing with a heatsink under it screwed to the top of the ECU. looks like this:








They are the same part number for all 1.8's, even the 16v, but it seems the 9A would have slightly different ignition maps due to the longer stroke having less dwell time, anyone else have any input on this.


----------



## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

*Re: (all-starr-me)*

it does not have any maps in it. They are in knock box on 1.8s and single ecu on 2.0s.


----------



## norcalstyle (Aug 13, 2004)

anybody spraying on a digi2 16v. could it even pump enough fuel for it? i was thinking about running a shot in the future, i've never had nitrous so wouldnt mind having a small shot just for kicks.


----------



## .logical.progression. (Jul 15, 2005)

how much power at the wheels could i expect with a 1.8 16v on digi2 w/a catback, k&n cone filter, and a bmw vam?


----------



## docspeed1 (Apr 26, 2002)

*Re: (.logical.progression.)*

If its internally stock, it should make about stock levels of power. CIS is not a bad system if working properly, and I don't see any reason Digi 2 would give you a significant gain.
I personally think that Digi 2 is better suited to a 2.0 than 1.8. The 1.8 is somewhat more rev happy and the Digi 2 rev limiter would affect it worse than the 2.0. My stock 2.0 works great on Digi, because its pointless to go past 6500 rpm and the 2.0 makes decent enough torque in the midrange for daily driving.


----------



## GTIMan82 (Jul 8, 2002)

*Re: (16vDigiGti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16vDigiGti* »_and a uick question again, :T I have a ce2 motronic car (2.0L 16v) and a ce2 digi ecu and harness from a 91 jetta, what wire goe to where on each of the harnesses? please help i've looked at the diagrams over and over but can't seem to figure it out.

OK so I have the same question. Yes me. Except I will try to expand on it a little better...
My buddies car: 
Motronic moving to -> CE2 Digi II swap (Motronic was broken)
Motronic has two 6-pin connectors near the motronic ECU. A black connector and a Gray connector. 
Digi II has two 2 pin connectors near the Digi II ICM
Motronic *Gray Connector*--------->Digi II Plugs
GY/WH(Motron Diag)----> Nothing
Y(Motron Diag)----------->Nothing
Y/BK(Motron Diag)------->Nothing
BR/R---------------------->BR/R 
G-------------------------->Nothing
Y/W----------------------->Nothing

Motronic *Black Connector*--------->Digi II Plugs
BK/W----------------------> Nothing
R-------------------------->Nothing
R/W(O2 heater wire?---->R/W
R/Y----------------------->R/Y
BK-------------------------->Nothing
BK/Y----------------------->BK/Y
All other wires go to the right components in the engine bay except one "lone green wire" that went to some damn thing on a digi II car.
The fuel pump runs and the motor turns over, but there is no spark what so ever. The only wires hooked up to the coil are the R/BK and BK wire from the Digi II Harness. I removed the Motronic Ignition Booster wires from the coil.
Help anyone? Does this look ok?
Edit: I have stared at the wiring diagrams for a long time and figured out most of the wires except some of those above. My friend needs to get this car running ASAP or he loses the car. The multi-meter is coming out but it has been very windy and cold of late! The vortex is a much warmer place to try and figure this out.



_Modified by GTIMan82 at 4:14 AM 1-27-2006_


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (GTIMan82)*

I think that my ISV isnt routed correctly. I tested my 2 throttle switches and they are working perfectly. I thought that my ISV was mounted too far away because my car only stalls when the clutch is released from under 3000rpm. after 3000 it goes straight to idle with no question and runs perfectly. under 3000 it it goes straight to 0. no hesitation, no signs of life at all, almost as thought the ISV was mounted too far away and not getting the air thats needed. But wheni had another look, my ISN seems to be in the same spot as the pic on page 1. I am still at a very big loss here. other than my throttle switches which are working . .and my ISV which seems to be correct, what else controls idle?? or activated the idle control system (I.E. closed throttle switch)


----------



## GTIMan82 (Jul 8, 2002)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

Well still not getting anywhere on my friends car, I tested everything and it turns out the ICM is not getting power and therefor neither is the coil. I have narrowed it down to possibly the stupid seatbelt circuit







or the fact that he doesnt have a digi control relay installed. But I dont know if he needs that or what.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

if its seatbelt circuit it shouldnt even turn over.
i vote for the digi control relay.......


----------



## GTIMan82 (Jul 8, 2002)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

Well here is an update... after reading the Bentley on testing the ignition control unit (ICM, ICU) for power for the 3rd time I realized the wire at the ignition module ran straight to the + post on the coil. So.... where is the wire supplying the 12v+? It was not there so I hooked up a wire from the BK/Y wire that has ignition/starter on 12 V, which is on the same power circuit as the missing wire. The BK/Y also powers the ECU so I dont know if that will cause a problem or not, but I dont think so.
Now it has spark and it turns over and runs http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif for about 5 seconds and dies http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif . Vacuum leaks? Yea I fixed all of those.
32 psi on the adjustable fuel pressure regulator, I dont know if thats right.
Tuning Digi II? I have never had to before so I will do some reading.
If I remember there are some other posts on here about the car stalling after running for a bit so I will try to look at those.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (GTIMan82)*

check your electronic fuel system. you need the digi2 throttle body and the working closed and full throttle sensors. plus a working Idle stabilizer valve. . .if your closed throttle switch isnt coming oni . .the idle system wont be coming on. thus almost instant death http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
goodluck.


----------



## Gabe. (Apr 29, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

what did you guys use to clamp the throttle cable?


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Royale10)*

due to money and time restraints i used a stock 8v cable and made up a little bracket .. .


----------



## GTIMan82 (Jul 8, 2002)

*Re: (veedubinit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *veedubinit* »_check your electronic fuel system. you need the digi2 throttle body and the working closed and full throttle sensors. plus a working Idle stabilizer valve. . .if your closed throttle switch isnt coming oni . .the idle system wont be coming on. thus almost instant death http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
goodluck.










Well I was able to wire up the stock 16V throttle position sensors to work the same way the DIGI II 8V's do. However, the resting point of the throttle body will probably have to be slightly adjusted once it gets running to smooth out or raise idle.
The Idle stabilizer valve works also.
I have limited running issues to a mis-adjusted VAM, fuel pressure, or possibly vacuum. The air flow meter is ancient so it could have some problems too. We will figure it out in about 3 weeks once he gets off of the boat again. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (GTIMan82)*

well good luck. I thought the cis open and closed throttle sensors sent different signal's but i more than likely am takling out of my ass because i dont remember. Keep us posted, i still havent figured out my idle problems. . . but i will before spring


----------



## norcalstyle (Aug 13, 2004)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

heres how mine runs...dont mind the stupid guage faces, you kinda have to put gifts on your car when your parents show interest.
car just has a muffler, a lame air filter, and a digifast, ISV and all sensors are hooked up.
all these clips are pretty stupid
cold start and idle
http://media.putfile.com/cold-start-and-idle
warmed up idle
http://media.putfile.com/warmed-up-idle
a little jont to 90 on a closed course 
http://media.putfile.com/slow-digi2-16v
edit: the cold start was probably at 30 or so degrees in the garage...not the coldest



_Modified by norcalstyle at 9:00 AM 2-16-2006_


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (norcalstyle)*

Wow, your setup runs perfectly, I'm jelious. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## VWGTIxxx (Jun 13, 2002)

*Re: (docspeed1)*

i had a digi 2 set up on a 16v..... eff that... i went went stand alone and its amazing ........ dynamic race solutions......


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (norcalstyle)*


_Quote, originally posted by *norcalstyle* »_ car just has a muffler, a lame air filter, and a digifast, ISV and all sensors are hooked up.

thats great Congrats!!!


----------



## .logical.progression. (Jul 15, 2005)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

can one use a g60 fuel rail instead of spending a good amount on a bbm/ross motorsport one?


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (.logical.progression.)*

Nope, sure can't. For a few reaons, the injectors are spaced differently on an 8v and the rail isnt deep enough to get by the intake manafold.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (.logical.progression.)*

if you are using a shorty intake a 1.8T fuel rail can possibly work. spacing is the same - but now you probably spend more on the intake than the other fuel rails cost............


----------



## .logical.progression. (Jul 15, 2005)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

damn


----------



## mafia1420 (Nov 11, 2005)

you could go with a copper rail


----------



## 89JettaCoupe (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (mafia1420)*

I've been having two issues with my digi2 setup. It's a 1.8L 16V with a BMW AFM, first off, unless I let it warm up like 3 or 4 minutes, if I get on the gas at all... it has no power whatsoever. Like it falls on it's butt trying to move anywhere. Second is my gas mileage. I am only getting about 23-24 mpg commuting on the freeway. What kind of Milaege are you other guys getting with the BMW AFM in there, since I am thinking that may be my problem. I have an A/F gauge and it usually reads stoich or maybe one peg above stoich into the rich range.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (89JettaCoupe)*

I think you'd be better off with a stock MAF sensor IMO. . . ihavent heard many good things about going to the BMW one.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (89JettaCoupe)*

it could be anything, even stock. id swap the stock unit back and see if u have the same issues. if not, the bmw unit is not tuned yet. also, are u chipped? if not, that would explain mucho.


----------



## 89JettaCoupe (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (rychas1)*

yeah im chipped. Anybody have a spare digi2 airbox they would let go of cheap? I modified mine to work with the BMW unit so that it all looks stock, problem is I can't switch back.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (89JettaCoupe)*

yea i do, haha too bad I'm in Nova Scotia


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

i have one that looks like swiss cheese....


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (89JettaCoupe)*

im not using my airbox....i love my cone.


----------



## 89JettaCoupe (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (rychas1)*

How did you guys mount your cone filters? I bought one, but then decided not to go through the hassle of mounting it on there.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (89JettaCoupe)*

You buy an adapter plate. Companies make them . .i have one, but I'm not using it anymore, my stock airbox works better.


----------



## norcalstyle (Aug 13, 2004)

*Re: (89JettaCoupe)*


_Quote, originally posted by *89JettaCoupe* »_How did you guys mount your cone filters? I bought one, but then decided not to go through the hassle of mounting it on there. 

go find the BMW with the *same* sized MAF, they have a piece that bolts onto the MAF that will accept a cone filter


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (norcalstyle)*

u dont need an adapter plate for the bmw unit. it comes with the round end to accept a 3 in cone


----------



## dbrasco4E (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (mechanixfetch)*

how do i adjust the idle on a 16V w/ digi2????
i'm getting crazy jumps on a cold start


----------



## norcalstyle (Aug 13, 2004)

*Re: (rychas1)*

are you running the bigger BMW maf?

_Quote, originally posted by *rychas1* »_u dont need an adapter plate for the bmw unit. it comes with the round end to accept a 3 in cone


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (dbrasco4E)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dbrasco4E* »_how do i adjust the idle on a 16V w/ digi2????
i'm getting crazy jumps on a cold start

in front of the TB, the idle screw is right there. adjust it when warm. mine runs perfect at like 999.

_Quote, originally posted by *norcalstyle* »_are you running the bigger BMW maf?

no, but i have it ready to go in. i was waiting for the secret weapons to come. they did. watch out


----------



## norcalstyle (Aug 13, 2004)

put that MAF on first and tell me how it runs before you put in your "secret weapons"


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (norcalstyle)*

will do. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## norcalstyle (Aug 13, 2004)

*Re: (rychas1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rychas1* »_will do. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

did you ever know that you're my hero....evferything i would like to be


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (norcalstyle)*

r u serious


----------



## 16vandy (Nov 16, 2005)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

i am swapping the digi 2 into my 2.0 16V gti, and i was wondering if i need the stock fuse box or not? and is there anything realy different between my situation, and what you just did?


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (16vandy)*

You need the digi2 fuse box and wiring harness. its easiest that way.


----------



## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

*Re: (veedubinit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *veedubinit* »_You need the digi2 fuse box and wiring harness. its easiest that way. 
fuse box is same on CE2, but harness is different.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (vwpat)*

arent all the relays different?


----------



## 16vandy (Nov 16, 2005)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

OK, i now have all of the parts for the swap, and I am just now starting to hear all of these bad things about it. people are telling me that my car will not run right, its not worth it, you will have all of these problems... is this true? what will go wrong that i should know about?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (16vandy)*

dont fall into that bowl of poo. just do it right the first time. fix it later, if needed. sounds lke u need to talk to those who have had better success, like me. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (16vandy)*

My car has had a handful of problems. BUT the gains totally outweigh the bad. The important thing to do is make sure you have new sensors, and be careful with your harness. . . if you have a good harness and comp and new sensors it will be as happy as a pig in ****, and you will be another happy VW owner














http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Black92EightValve (Oct 23, 2003)

*Re: (veedubinit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *veedubinit* »_arent all the relays different?









not all of them, but you'll defintately want to make sure you've got the Digifant control relay, without it you'll have no fuel or spark


----------



## Gabe. (Apr 29, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

are these the injector cups that i need?
http://www.germanautoparts.com.../93/2


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Royale10)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Royale10* »_are these the injector cups that i need?
http://www.germanautoparts.com.../93/2 
yes


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*

Just got the car out of storage yesterday, car seems to be working alright, still has the same idle problem .. . and i think it has to do with breaking which leads me toward a vaccume leak . .it idle bounces and stalls itself sometimes. . . but works perfectly with the ISV unplugged(when warm of course).
I am going to go through all the vaccume connections and see if i can fix the issue. . .I'm nerotic when it comes to having my Digi2 work correctly stock


----------



## Gabe. (Apr 29, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*

thank you


----------



## norcalstyle (Aug 13, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (veedubinit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *veedubinit* »_Just got the car out of storage yesterday, car seems to be working alright, still has the same idle problem .. . and i think it has to do with breaking which leads me toward a vaccume leak . .it idle bounces and stalls itself sometimes. . . but works perfectly with the ISV unplugged(when warm of course).
I am going to go through all the vaccume connections and see if i can fix the issue. . .I'm nerotic when it comes to having my Digi2 work correctly stock









lol, i ripped my engine out, and im gonna start it up tomorrow, i hope its still runs as good as it did. im pretty confident that it will...but its in the back of my mind


----------



## Dub or Die (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*

My swap starts friday directly after work. i have everything laid out and ready to go lol. i have until sunday evening to get it together.







shouldant be hard, the 16v is assembled, the wires are tagged, the clutch and tranny are ready to go in just need a valve cover gasket and im set. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## mxman (Jul 31, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

So, i am megasquirtting my car and i thought i would put my lc-1 in my car prior to hte megasquir to get some readings for a laugh....
My setup :
2L digi2 16v
modified 4-1 header (supersprint) 2.25" tt exhaust no cat 1 res
o2 in the stock cat area
CSW chip
no isv
i cant think of anything else important

I installed this badboy and i got it running finally and @ idle it was like 12.1:1 and far richer when i moved the idle about, JESUS thats rich ... I will add to this when i drive it around a bit
-ok did some tinkering with the idle mix, i cranked to around 14.7 (weird that it sat there perfectly, wtf?) i took my csw chip out and it runs way better without it, what a piece of crap it is, fu vwpilot... 
uh ya so.. ineed to do some logging, i cant believe how much better it runs with the idle mix changed, i might put the chip back in, i could have sworn it ran a tad lean whilst i drove around earlier



_Modified by mxman at 7:19 AM 5-8-2006_


----------



## furious GTi (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (mxman)*

hey guys im doing a digi 2 16v in my 81 caddy originally diesel. i couldnt find anything in search.
i need to find out a cuple wires to get mine running
on the main plug that has 5 wires red/black goes to positive side on distributer ? black/yellow goes to what for the injecters? red/green i have no clue red/yellow fuel pump turn on white/yellow..oxy sensor? 
i dont really know what to do here or what ones i really need and if you know where to hook them up on my diesel fues box.. im using the original rabbit fuse box. i already have the black/red to the distributer and the red/ yellow to my fuel pump relay
and the pics








i made the fuel rail at school.. its pretty sick for $10








































its all in this








thanks in advance


----------



## furious GTi (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (furious GTi)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (furious GTi)*

i dont understand. if ur running digi2, im going to safely assume u have the digi2 harness? if so, just plug it in the stock locations. if not, u need more help i cant provide. help this dood!!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (mxman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mxman* »_So, i am megasquirtting my car and i thought i would put my lc-1 in my car prior to hte megasquir to get some readings for a laugh....
My setup :
2L digi2 16v
modified 4-1 header (supersprint) 2.25" tt exhaust no cat 1 res
o2 in the stock cat area
CSW chip
no isv
i cant think of anything else important

I installed this badboy and i got it running finally and @ idle it was like 12.1:1 and far richer when i moved the idle about, JESUS thats rich ... I will add to this when i drive it around a bit
-ok did some tinkering with the idle mix, i cranked to around 14.7 (weird that it sat there perfectly, wtf?) i took my csw chip out and it runs way better without it, what a piece of crap it is, fu vwpilot... 
uh ya so.. ineed to do some logging, i cant believe how much better it runs with the idle mix changed, i might put the chip back in, i could have sworn it ran a tad lean whilst i drove around earlier
_Modified by mxman at 7:19 AM 5-8-2006_

How did you make out??
And with the cabby. if your using the digi2 harness completly everyhting should plug into its spots


----------



## furious GTi (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (veedubinit)*

im using rabbit diesel fues box. with digi2 engine harness


----------



## furious GTi (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (furious GTi)*

ok i got it running.. but i have a little problem.. it wont rev up.. its like hunting up and down a bit.. but wont rev up.. im thinking its the computer? or MAF? any help would be great


----------



## Gabe. (Apr 29, 2004)

ok quick question guys... I got my car running on the digi 2 in december when i was on winter break. Unfortunately it sat til i got back for the summer. Once i got home i replaced the injector o-rings and the injector cups just because i hadnt done that yet. When i went to start it it turned over for a sec and then stopped. Now when i try to start it nothing happens and the clock resets. Tomorrow im going to unplug the battery for a bit and reset the ecu to see if the does anything but im thinking i have a wiring issue on my hands somehow. Do any of you have any ideas of what my problem could be?
I guess that wasnt a very quick question.


----------



## furious GTi (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: (Royale10)*

PLEASE HELP ME!!!!
ok i got it running.. but i have a little problem.. it wont rev up.. its like hunting up and down a bit.. but wont rev up.. im thinking its the computer? or MAF?


----------



## Gabe. (Apr 29, 2004)

*Re: (furious GTi)*

ok well i got mine running again, my battery terminals were corroded a bit and my injector harness was grounding out on the intake manifold.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (Royale10)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Royale10* »_ok quick question guys... I got my car running on the digi 2 in december when i was on winter break. Unfortunately it sat til i got back for the summer. Once i got home i replaced the injector o-rings and the injector cups just because i hadnt done that yet. When i went to start it it turned over for a sec and then stopped. Now when i try to start it nothing happens and the clock resets. Tomorrow im going to unplug the battery for a bit and reset the ecu to see if the does anything but im thinking i have a wiring issue on my hands somehow. Do any of you have any ideas of what my problem could be?
I guess that wasnt a very quick question.

Clean your battery connections, then charge your battery. . either it dies. . or corroded and got icky over winter. . easy problem to fix.
As far as the caddy with the diesel fuse box. .. .. if i were you I'd be running a digi2 fuse box. . way less nightmare.. . digi2 can be a nightmare finding problems with everyhting stock . . let alone having it done like that. and you need to explain that problem a bit better. .. because then you opent he throttle something has to happen.. . .because more air goes into the engine. . if its hitting a sort of fuel cut then sure. . you either have a MAF problem or a TPS problem, but your description doesnt explain much. My advice is wire it stock digi2 with digi2 fusebox http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## furious GTi (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

i know its wired in properly.
when you open the throttle it will back fire .. or die...
could this be a fuel problem? maybe one of my lines is pinched


----------



## Dub or Die (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*

engine is in, just need to find a 16v intake boot. rigged up an intake, started it, idled at 1000







pics someday http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## furious GTi (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Dub or Die)*

my intake.
its not painted yet


----------



## furious GTi (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (furious GTi)*

i think the problem that i have is a fuel problem.. i have a mk2 digifart fuel pump in my caddy.. but it sits higher than the gas tank. could this be a problem? im going to drop it down and see what happens











_Modified by furious GTi at 8:37 AM 5-16-2006_


----------



## Dub or Die (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (furious GTi)*

..****...... my cars down for a bit. came home from work and started it up... idled smoooooth then very slight knocking,. could barely hear it at all. kinda sounded lke lifters tapping, adjust the distributor timing a bit it idles for like 30 seconds then it got louder. shut my eyes, kicked my beer shut it off. drain oil, metal shavings.... awesome... looks like ill be doing some bearings this week


----------



## furious GTi (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Dub or Die)*

what the hell is wrong with my truck!


----------



## furious GTi (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (furious GTi)*

whats the difference between standard and auto engine harnesses?


----------



## furious GTi (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (furious GTi)*

ok guys.. heres the update/question
the fuel rail i made didnt seal the injectors tight so they leaked and i put silicone in them...silicone got stuck in injectors..truck didnt run
so my dads friend had this fuel rail made for a 16v digi so i got different 
injectors and put it on.. no leaks = good








now. i got it to kinda rev up . when you hold it wide open it bogs.
BUT.. the distributer is all the way adjusted. to this








and when you take out the bolts and turn it more back it gets better..
cam timming and base timming are bang on.. 
anyone know what it is?


----------



## Sciroccoracer7 (Apr 28, 2005)

have you checked your CO if that is off it won't run worth tihs, I would also keep playing with the timing, but I know after I put my bmw maf on I just had to get the CO set properly and the car is screamin fast now


----------



## cdn20VALVE (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: (Sciroccoracer7)*

I don't want to flame this thread. Everyone already knows how I feel about Digi II.
But I am almost finished tuning my Megasquirt, and thought I would update the digi II 16v community on my progress. I used to run on digi II. MS blows it right out of the water.
Nothing has changed except the EFI. Same injector etc... The car sounds way better in both engine noise and WOT! It is much faster. I can rev till 7500 rpm and the best part... I can monitor everything that happens with my laptop. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I also am running th einjector bands alternating, so unlike digifant that just turns on all in jectors at the same time, I'm alternating between two banks. It makes things more efficient.


----------



## mxman (Jul 31, 2003)

*Re: (cdn20VALVE)*

I completely agree with lovre, digi2 was ok and all but it was such a pain and the engine didnt have nearly as much power as martyn16v's untuned megasquirt map... go ms man... toss digi2... 
there is this weird problem nobody knows how to fix, suddenly you start blowing cts' and your o2 sensor will no longer work with the oem ecu, i had 2 different o2 sensors not work with the stock computer...
if you ARE going to do this swap, replace all the grounds in your car, make sure you set your VAM (the air meter) for spring tension and make sure you have a digi2 vam that has idle mixture adjustment...this can dial out that crappy digi2 bog you hear about....
my digi2 16v ran at 12:1 at idle (with lc-1 wideband monitoring)


----------



## DJSubZero (May 22, 2006)

*Not Sure About Problem*

Hi ppl
I'am happy about my digi 2 16V on my GTX. But seem to have problem. I Run with ISV, probably work great. And i Run with 02 sensor in the catalysor. Well when i start my engine, the idle must be rought, bounce [email protected] during maybe 1 minutes and stall perfectly at 750RPM.
Second problem, when a make some quick start, and i accelerate fast in second gear and third and fourth when i shift between 3700RPM and 4900 RPM got a big ''backfire'' make some noise at the end of Exhaust.







Somes peoples said to me, probably my FPR dont give enought fuel to my engine. So I ckek my spark plug, and i see in top end, the color is white. Probably run too lean. I thing a have not a FPR ajustable. And my car work well except that problem. 
Here a pic of my car:
























Thx for helping me! Could I ajust my FRP manually? Or just change it for newer one ? 
Thx
Bruno


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: Not Sure About Problem (DJSubZero)*

i take it ur not chipped. that could cause ur leaning issues. also, ur fpr looks kinda rusty. might wanna change that for good measure.


----------



## gruvismalt11 (Mar 1, 2004)

*Re: Not Sure About Problem (rychas1)*

were do i put the o2 sensor when i use the dual down pipe with 8v cat and rest of the exhaust


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: Not Sure About Problem (gruvismalt11)*

um....in the side of the 8v cat


----------



## gruvismalt11 (Mar 1, 2004)

*Re: Not Sure About Problem (rychas1)*

woah bro wasn't aware that i had an o2 port on the 8v cat








EDIT: on closer inspection i do not have an o2 sensor spot on my 8v cat. my 8v had the o2 sensor on the manifold right below the testing port. could this cat be a universal cat with no o2 port?



_Modified by gruvismalt11 at 8:29 AM 6-24-2006_


----------



## HareRocket (Nov 28, 2005)

*questions*

couple questions. i have my motronic o2sensor and also a digi2 o2 sensor which should i use? also, is there any way to stick with my 16v throttle body while running digi2? one last question, do i realy need to replace my crank pully bolt when reasembling pully or can i use same bolt again? thanks


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: questions (HareRocket)*

1. use the digi2 sensor
2. u can use the 16v TB, just switch over the TB switches from the 8v TB
3. i dont think you need the change this bolt
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## HareRocket (Nov 28, 2005)

*Re: questions (rychas1)*

alright, almost done with my swap just need to rig up a good intake system now. ANy suggestions? I want the best airflow possible, but will prob not go with the bmw 535i AFM. any pics/suggestions concerning tubing and length and how to fit tubing to boxy front side of digi2 MAS block?


----------



## HareRocket (Nov 28, 2005)

*Re: questions (HareRocket)*

well, did some looking. Regarding post just before this one: what do you guys think...Too spendy i think, but like idea of it. where might i get the mas adapter for cheap so i can make my own?
http://www.bahnbrenner.com/cat....html


----------



## GutlessLump (May 20, 2006)

go to a junkyard, find you an older BMW that has the same size VAM as the one on the digi2. they have the adapter you need on them


----------



## Andy Bro (Aug 24, 2003)

*Re: (GutlessLump)*

So I'm about to take the plunge and take my 87 PL and drop it into a 92 Jetta Carat. I've done engine swaps in the past, so it doesn't really scare me, but I am curious to know what modifcations if any need to be made to the intake manifold to have the injectors seat properly. I saw that you need to use Digifant injector cups, and that site says that they thread into the head, but I don't remember there being injector cups in my 16v head. I know there are injector cups in the lower intake manifold, do I just swap out the CIS injector cups with the digifant ones? If so, how do I get the old ones out, and subsequently the new ones in? I see that they're threaded, but do I need a special too to take them out?
Thanks
-Andy


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (Andy Bro)*

they have a large internal hex - like 14 or 17mm, thread right out, swap the 16v brass ones with the G60 plastic ones. I take it you have the Ross/BBM or whomever's fuel rail already?


----------



## Andy Bro (Aug 24, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

Nope, haven't bought the fuel rail yet. I am going to wait until the car is in my driveway first, way too many things have changed at the last minute in the past for me, but I just bought it today and am picking it up in a week.
Is there a cheaper source of fuel rails other than Ross or BBM? I found one on ebay yesterday, give me a minute to find the link. What is the advantage to the Ross or BBM units versus this one.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (Andy Bro)*

i prefer AN straight thread fittings, but you can buy the AN style with a pipe thread end also. So yeah - that rail will work.


----------



## Andy Bro (Aug 24, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

For the extra money, would the Ross rail mount easier or be easier to install? Longevity shouldn't be an issue with these, should it?
This is going in a daily driver, so I just don't want to run into too many problems.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (Andy Bro)*

i doubt if theres much difference - other than the engraved name...


----------



## Andy Bro (Aug 24, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

And I should be able to fab up some mounts that secure the fuel rail to the intake manifold, or is this not really necessary?
Thanks for answering my questions


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (Andy Bro)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Andy Bro* »_And I should be able to fab up some mounts that secure the fuel rail to the intake manifold, or is this not really necessary?
Thanks for answering my questions

mounts come with it - connect to the upper intake bolts like the plug wire rail does


----------



## Andy Bro (Aug 24, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

I meant for the one I ebay. I didn't see any in the picture or anything mentioned about them.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (Andy Bro)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Andy Bro* »_I meant for the one I ebay. I didn't see any in the picture or anything mentioned about them.

if you look you can see it is supported on the 2 mounts on the "back" of the rail picture - they are barely visible - but there


----------



## HareRocket (Nov 28, 2005)

*question*

i have my digi2 harnes in the car now, everytthings hooked up, but tranny sensor is different than golf tranny sensor. golf one has two wires and other one (jetta i think) has like 5wires. do i need to look at the tranny codes? do i even need it attached?


----------



## GutlessLump (May 20, 2006)

*Re: question (HareRocket)*

try to PM "broke" i think. he helped me out with the same problem.


----------



## HareRocket (Nov 28, 2005)

*Re: question (GutlessLump)*

thanks


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: question (HareRocket)*

theres 2 kind of connectors - one is for the cluster that has the uphift light in it, the other is for the one without. the one with upshift has like 4 wires, the one without is 2 iirc.
all u need if you have a 2 terminal tranny and a 4 wire plug, is cut off the plug, find the 2 wires that go to the back-up lights, put on new 1/4" female spades and done.
if you have the 4 wire connector and the 2 wire plug, u cut the plug and use a meter to determine which 2 terminals on the tranny close when u go into reverse, put 2 small (stereo) terminals on your wires...
or just forget about the back-up lights and leave it all disconnected LOL


----------



## Broke (Aug 13, 2001)

*Re: question (GutlessLump)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GutlessLump* »_try to PM "broke" i think. he helped me out with the same problem. 

The reverse switch wiring page is on BrokeVW.com now http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Broke


----------



## HareRocket (Nov 28, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

cool, now i just need to know whether the red/black goes to terminal 8 and blue/black goes to termainal 2 or vice versa. (red/black and blue/black are from the 2wire 91 golf tranny sensor)


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (HareRocket)*

doesnt really matter - its a sealed switch that closes when u go in reverse....


----------



## HareRocket (Nov 28, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*

so, i got the full digi2 harness in my rabbit and hooked everything in the right places. it turns over, and it has spark,. it also has fuel to the FPR (which i took off a running golf), but the injectors do not spray any fuel AT ALL. So i tested the main fuel rail sensor with a mutimeter and got 9 while turning it over. i did the same to the injector sensors and they got negative readings







help please


----------



## GutlessLump (May 20, 2006)

*Re: question (Broke)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Broke* »_
The reverse switch wiring page is on BrokeVW.com now http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Broke

glad to see you got it all re-hosted. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

on a side note, my digi2 9a ran a [email protected] with just a digifast, stock PF cat/pipes, and a flowmaster. i came right off the highway, let it sit for maybe 10 minutes in the heat, and ran. and my 60 foot was terrible. spin spin spin. 
60 2.44
1/8 mph 71.18
1/8 time 10.12
1/4 mph 87.06
1/4 time 15.76


----------



## Rdoppie (Dec 9, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

Thanks
I am planning to try this soon.
Going to take it all in & see if I can handle this swap.
ON a scale of 1-10, how hard would you say this is?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Rdoppie)*

is 1 easiest (change oil), 10 hardest (rebuild transmission)
or 1 easiest (8v 5spd for 8v 5spd), 10 hardest (8v auto for twin turbo vr6 6spd awd) ? 
if so, this is a 6 on first scale and 5 on second scale. it really helps to have all parts needed un front of u before starting...its the little things that add up in the end that make it very unnecessarily complicated. my unsolicited .02.


----------



## Andy Bro (Aug 24, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

So far the swap isn't too bad for me. I've got the 8v out, and the 16v in and now its time to button it all up. I bought a BBM rail but they ship with straight fittings for the fuel inlet when there really should be a 180 bend, so I had to track one down and get it. But that fitting is only for steel braided line, so I had to buy some of that too. Now the hardest part, I think, is just going to be all the vacuum hoses and nipples and such that were on the 16v but don't translate to the 8v. I have to run out to NAPA and get some caps to do it right. Oh, and the stinking throttle cables aren't the same, so save your 16v one.


_Modified by Andy Bro at 3:54 PM 8-12-2006_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Andy Bro)*

i always say...the little things add up, but very worth it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TurboXpert (Jul 15, 2005)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

Well i figured i'd chime in as im doing this swap as we speak. (89 Jetta Coupe). One of the reasons why im staying with the digi is that my Coupe is a CE1 Digi2. Rather then swap/splice the entire harness,ill be keeping it Digi (besides its my daily. Got the MK2 2.0T for the weekends







)This will be the second time doing this swap. 
This.......








is going in this......








Im just waiting for my SPEC clutch to get here.
I will keep everyone posted


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (TurboXpert)*

nice http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Andy Bro (Aug 24, 2003)

*Re: (rychas1)*

Well, my car is up and running and I've put about 1000 miles on it since I finished the swap. No major problems thus far that I haven't solved. Some minor issues with a high idle, but I think its just a matter of adjusting the idle air bypass screw and cleaning the ISV.
But the engine doesn't pull quite like it did in my old GTI. I know the Jetta is a few hundred pounds heavier, but it just doesn't feel the same past 3k. I have the timing right, and all the sensors are good. I have the Digifast chip, but I'm going to wait and buy another ECU so I have a stock and a chipped one. I am running stock injectors and the stock fuel pressure regulator right now. I'm looking at upgrading. I understand that the Porsche 944s unit will bolt up and give me 3.5 bar, I think that will probably do it. For injectors, what are the stock Digi 2 injectors rated at? What are my choices for upgrading? I've done some preliminary research, and it looks like stock VR6's are 21 lb? Is that right? Where can I source some 24/26 lb injectors if the 21 isn't adequate, or true?
The other things I need to do is modify the airbox to accept my BMW MAF, I'd like to get another box to modify so I have my stock one. Also, the inlet to the box is a 1 inch round hole that needs to be made bigger.


----------



## Andy Bro (Aug 24, 2003)

*Re: (Andy Bro)*

I just found this link
http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm
So 21lb injectors should be fine. Anyone know where I can source these? If it is true tha VR6s have those injectors? I'm going to keep on looking to see if I can find something out.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (Andy Bro)*

why bother..just bump up your fpr to 3.5...done. unless u just happen to have some, but this way u can always go back to stock flow if needed. and the vr6 is 19 iirc. same as digi2 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Andy Bro (Aug 24, 2003)

*Re: (rychas1)*

I didn't know how many lbs Digi cars were, so I'll leave the injectors for now. How do I 'bump' up my FPR?


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (Andy Bro)*

ive got some brand new 21 lb injectors - somewhere in a box. got them for my ford van w/ the mustang motor...


----------



## Andy Bro (Aug 24, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

I'm going to try the bigger FPR first, and if I'm still not satisfied, I may be interested in those injectors. PM me with how much you would want for 4. Thanks


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (Andy Bro)*

switch to a 3.5 fpr. simple. or get an adjustable so u can always change it


----------



## urbaanboheemik (Aug 10, 2006)

anyone know where i can get a chip to my digi 2?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (urbaanboheemik)*

[email protected] (digifast2/csw), techtonicstuning.com (TT), advancemotorsports.com (AMS). there are others..but these have been tested well. there is also SNS, but might take a while to get one.
pg 19 ownage!


----------



## ferchooo (Oct 18, 2004)

what are the requirements for a mk1 swap


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (ferchooo)*

i dont think anything else is diff, CE1 digi2 to a CE1 car. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 16Vjettacoupe (Jan 13, 2003)

*Re: (rychas1)*

with changing a 1.8 16v to digi that is allready cise are there any *major* issues to look out for?


----------



## Andy Bro (Aug 24, 2003)

*Re: (16Vjettacoupe)*

You don't mean putting Digi into the car that had CIS-E, right? If you don't mean that, and intend on putting your 1.8 16v into a Digi car, there are no major problems to worry about. Its really a pretty easy swap, and everything I've encountered was more or less covered at some point in this thread.


----------



## 16Vjettacoupe (Jan 13, 2003)

*Re: (Andy Bro)*

Okay long story short. I have a 1988 jetta, was 1.8 8v digi., swapped it to a 16v with cise out of an 1987 gli complete swap, this was before I realized that I could've stayed with the digi. Now I want to swap back. What I have is the complete injection harness with injectors, mass air, idle stabilizer. I have a ross machine rail I have everything except for the digi fuel pumps and box for the rear. I mean I'm about 99.9% sure that won't make a difference. I just want to make sure or see if anyone has done this without having an 8v digi to start.


----------



## Andy Bro (Aug 24, 2003)

*Re: (16Vjettacoupe)*

You need the digi main pump. The CIS pumps operate upwards of 80 PSI, whereas Digi is around 40 PSI. Yes, it will work, but you are going to be stressing your FPR and may cause it to fail one way or another.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (16Vjettacoupe)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16Vjettacoupe* »_Okay long story short. I have a 1988 jetta, was 1.8 8v digi., swapped it to a 16v with cise out of an 1987 gli complete swap, this was before I realized that I could've stayed with the digi. Now I want to swap back. What I have is the complete injection harness with injectors, mass air, idle stabilizer. I have a ross machine rail I have everything except for the digi fuel pumps and box for the rear. I mean I'm about 99.9% sure that won't make a difference. I just want to make sure or see if anyone has done this without having an 8v digi to start.

if you use a good fpr it shouldn be an issue - actually if you went with Digi-1 you would have the extra fueling available for some boost - or NOS.
Since you have all the Digi-2 stuff pretty much I would just do it








Get an AF gauge so you can monitor the fuel - an adjustable fpr would be my bet.


----------



## 16Vjettacoupe (Jan 13, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

Regulated I thought cise was about 60 psi and in that case I would need the whole pump assembly including the box. I do have an a/f ratio gauge because I acctually have direct port on it now. As far as an adjustable fpr like a rising rate or just a dial in and set fpr. I know digi fpr is a 3bar and I have 3 or so of them laying around. I'll do some research on the fpr or if it's just easier to replace the pump. Sucks though I just had to replace my fuel box cause it was leaking pretty bad. Wish I had looked into this a little further.


----------



## ryansux (Jan 18, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (ValveCoverGasket)*

I've just finished installing my motor and wiring it up. The motor gets spark, and fuel, but I belive my ignition timing is totally off, because it is set for cis. The motor starts and runs on starter fluid. The distibutor will not allow for the ammount of adjustment I need to get the timing correct for digi 2. Do you think I can take out the distributor, and set it differantly to get the timing correct. I'm going to try it tonight, but am hoping for some input. Other than that your write up has helped out greatly. I hope to get this thing running soon. A friend did reset the timing tonight, but it didn't seem to help. He seems to think the car is getting too much fuel. Any help on this issue would be awesome.
























_Modified by ryansux at 12:07 AM 10-17-2006_


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (16Vjettacoupe)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16Vjettacoupe* »_Regulated I thought cise was about 60 psi and in that case I would need the whole pump assembly including the box. I do have an a/f ratio gauge because I acctually have direct port on it now. As far as an adjustable fpr like a rising rate or just a dial in and set fpr. I know digi fpr is a 3bar and I have 3 or so of them laying around. I'll do some research on the fpr or if it's just easier to replace the pump. Sucks though I just had to replace my fuel box cause it was leaking pretty bad. Wish I had looked into this a little further.

Just keep the CIS pump and quit worrying about it. Its better to have the extra pressure available since you're still running a 16v engine, than it is to starve it running a Digi 40 psi pump IMO.
An adjustable FPR for fuel injection can handle whatever the CIS puts out. 
You have to remember that the 16v flows significantly more air than any 8v Digi. More air = need for more fuel so with the higher pressure and a better FPR you wont lean out.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (ryansux)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ryansux* »_I've just finished installing my motor and wiring it up. The motor gets spark, and fuel, but I belive my ignition timing is totally off, because it is set for cis. The motor starts and runs on starter fluid. 
The distibutor will not allow for the amount of adjustment I need to get the timing correct for digi 2. 
Do you think I can take out the distributor, and set it differantly to get the timing correct. I'm going to try it tonight, but am hoping for some input. 
A friend did reset the timing tonight, but it didn't seem to help. He seems to think the car is getting too much fuel. Any help on this issue would be awesome.






















_Modified by ryansux at 12:07 AM 10-17-2006_

16v distributors are keyed to the cam and not adjustable like an 8v is.
on 16v the front bolt (left) should be in the top hole and the back (right) should be in the bottom hole - it just wont run any other way!
Timing is timing - 6*, set it per the flywheel notch.
if you can run on ether - you're NOT gettting fuel IMO.
If you havent had the head off or timing belt etc chances are timing is OK except minor distributor positioning.
what FPR are you running? Is it set right or working? do a fuel pressure check.
Digi ecu's are easy to fry if you dont have a good ground. Most commonly it will then dump fuel continuously - so if your plugs are way fouled and wet - suspect the ecu!


----------



## ryansux (Jan 18, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*

I'm running a stock 8v fpr. I'll swap the ECU today to see if that could be the problem. Any other idea s ou there if that isn't the case?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (ryansux)*

like ob said...timing, ecu and grounds would cause the above. check those throughly and report back.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (ryansux)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ryansux* »_I'm running a stock 8v fpr. I'll swap the ECU today to see if that could be the problem. Any other idea s ou there if that isn't the case?

dont swap ECU's till you've checked all your grounds!!!!


----------



## ryansux (Jan 18, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*

It was the ecu, I swapped it and it started right up. Thanks for the advice. Now we have some problems with timing. It won't rev passed 2 grand without stalling. It should be fine after some timing is done.


----------



## 16Vjettacoupe (Jan 13, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OhioBenz* »_
Just keep the CIS pump and quit worrying about it. Its better to have the extra pressure available since you're still running a 16v engine, than it is to starve it running a Digi 40 psi pump IMO.
An adjustable FPR for fuel injection can handle whatever the CIS puts out. 
You have to remember that the 16v flows significantly more air than any 8v Digi. More air = need for more fuel so with the higher pressure and a better FPR you wont lean out.


I worry about this but it doesn't keep me from sleeping.








My dad is oldschool and believes that I should leave it alone cause it runs OK. So he talks crazy stuff and I really don't want to ruin a nice car.
Where is a good place to buy an adjustable fpr.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (16Vjettacoupe)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16Vjettacoupe* »_

I worry about this but it doesn't keep me from sleeping.








My dad is oldschool and believes that I should leave it alone cause it runs OK. So he talks crazy stuff and I really don't want to ruin a nice car.
Where is a good place to buy an adjustable fpr.

Summit Racing - Aeromotive


----------



## 16Vjettacoupe (Jan 13, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

cool thanks for the info. I'll post it up when I get it done.


----------



## ryansux (Jan 18, 2004)

*Re: (16Vjettacoupe)*

....all i have to say is wow. My 2.0 16v Digi 2 is soooooo fun. Funny thing is that it's even quieter than my 8v. I F'N LOVE IT!!!










































http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 16Vjettacoupe (Jan 13, 2003)

*Re: (ryansux)*

yup definitely my winter project. should I get a slightly bigger injector?


----------



## ryansux (Jan 18, 2004)

*Re: (16Vjettacoupe)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16Vjettacoupe* »_yup definitely my winter project. should I get a slightly bigger injector?

My stockers from the 8v seem to work fine. I had some fun with a vr the other night, and held my own. The vr didn't pull on my at all....damn i love this thing. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (ryansux)*

yea buddy


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (16Vjettacoupe)*

being that the 16v flows so much more air - I'd go a bit bigger and keep an eye on the AF readings. The smaller injectors may be OK, but what duty cycle are they running?


----------



## 16Vjettacoupe (Jan 13, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

so you're saying maybe an adjustable fpr or atleast 4 bar with a slightly bigger injector?


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (16Vjettacoupe)*

thats my thoughts - i like to be prepared


----------



## TurboXpert (Jul 15, 2005)

*Re: (rychas1)*

i just finished my swap in the coupe and i runs great. i will post some pic's soon as i get my computer up and running (using a friends puter). One thing though is that the ISV works better unplugged so i mght delete it. other then that was a straight forward swap. Oh and i used the Passat Dual fanand rad.
Edit:
his is a poor camera phone pic.........










_Modified by TurboXpert at 5:06 PM 10-24-2006_


----------



## 16Vjettacoupe (Jan 13, 2003)

*Re: (TurboXpert)*

dual fans are a must, did it to both of my jettas. what are stock digi injectors rated at?


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (16Vjettacoupe)*



16Vjettacoupe said:


> dual fans are a must, did it to both of my jettas. QUOTE]
> i run my GLI really hard and always had cooling problems. No matter what i did - new radiator, new waterpump, good belts, new thermostats....
> I finally pulled the last new thermostat and have run without it for almost a year now. Engine never gets over 1/4 hot on the gauge even in stalled traffic during commutes, after-run fan hasnt come on almost all summer.
> Now temps have dropped to the 40-50's F and i need to slow the flow a little or put some cardboard across the radiator cos the oil doesnt even get to 170*F.
> IMO the thermostats cause most of the high temp issues. If I put another one in - I'm going to remove a chunk from the outside so it always has more flow.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (16Vjettacoupe)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16Vjettacoupe* »_ what are stock digi injectors rated at?

19lb/hr http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (rychas1)*

i have a brand new set of 21#


----------



## docspeed1 (Apr 26, 2002)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

I've never had cooling problems and I use a completely stock cooling system. Oil temps tend to get a bit high after a longish autocross run or some track laps, but the coolant never gets much above half on the guage. 
Back on topic though, I use stock digi 2 injectors with an adjustable FPR and original CIS-M fuel pump. I have the ability to run very rich, so I don't think bigger injectors are a must if the motor is mostly stock.


----------



## 16Vjettacoupe (Jan 13, 2003)

*Re: (docspeed1)*

i wouldn't say mostly just kinda stock, like the rods and pistons.


----------



## TurboXpert (Jul 15, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

she's all done and is a beast!!!!








post more later


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (TurboXpert)*

er..specs??


----------



## TurboXpert (Jul 15, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

9A 16v, 30lb inj., Adjustable FPR, SPEC stage 2 clutch on a O2O tranny, Lightened Flywheel, nothing major.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (TurboXpert)*

nice








o yea..today marks the day i confirm hitting my rev limit, after 2 years of beating the snot out of this carm that has never happened, until today. 
the digi2 SNS value is set at 6800 rpms







go 3spd!










_Modified by rychas1 at 10:11 AM 11-6-2006_


----------



## TurboXpert (Jul 15, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

This is a mod i just did for my TTS & BTS sensrs. Please dont ask what coolant flange it is as i forgot







. Ordered it planning on using it on the turbo ABA but was the wrong one so kept it. That was a year ago. Anyway.....
You will need to fill in the 2 lower sensor ports as the flange sits close to the head.








This s the flange. sorry for the bad pic. it was late and i just wanted t get it done.








finished producted..........









HTH










_Modified by TurboXpert at 9:15 PM 11-6-2006_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (TurboXpert)*

looks like a digi2 8v coolant sensor housing. interesting...


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

they make flush fit Hex plugs......


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rychas1* »_nice








o yea..today marks the day i confirm hitting my rev limit, after 2 years of beating the snot out of this carm that has never happened, until today. 
the digi2 SNS value is set at 6800 rpms







go 3spd!









_Modified by rychas1 at 10:11 AM 11-6-2006_

i think i popped my cars 'cherry'. for some reason, i got on the hwy going to work, and it seemed a hellova lot faster. i mean..you know your car, every rattle and bump. either i gained or freed up about 10 ponies. thoughts? i checked to see if i snapped an axle or something, all seems well.


----------



## TurboXpert (Jul 15, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*

I blew the tranny lastnite







in the middle of replacing it. Im defintely loving every minute. I have no traction n 1st. & 2nd.


----------



## TurboXpert (Jul 15, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OhioBenz* »_they make flush fit Hex plugs......

The hex isnt flush enough. tried that. They have to be filled


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (TurboXpert)*

i wasnt talking about OEM plugs. 
I forget what size plugs I put in, but they dont leak and are nice & flush. 
US versions can be purchased in a short length....


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*

104 hp @ 6100, 104 tq @ 4300...2nd gear @ 6800 pull. not bad for a 3spd








ill post sheet later.



_Modified by rychas1 at 8:53 AM 11-12-2006_


----------



## 16Vjettacoupe (Jan 13, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

can't you just put the allens in and grind the top off of them flush or does it comprimise the sealing surface for the flange?


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (16Vjettacoupe)*

those OEM are face sealing plugs, replace them with the short NPT plugs....


----------



## TurboXpert (Jul 15, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (16Vjettacoupe)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16Vjettacoupe* »_can't you just put the allens in and grind the top off of them flush or does it comprimise the sealing surface for the flange?

It sits right up against the head. unless the plug counter sinks it wont work.


----------



## kofoworola (Nov 21, 2006)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

Hello and how are you?, 

I will like to know if you are the owner of the item you 
placed for sell? 

Can you tell me the present condition and the final price you will 
be selling it, Am intrested. so kindly get back to me with the pics 
if available so that we can know what to do next. 
Thanks


----------



## kofoworola (Nov 21, 2006)

*16v Digfant II FAQ +== (TurboXpert)*

Hello and how are you?, 

I will like to know if you are the owner of the item you 
placed for sell? 

16v Digfant
Can you tell me the present condition and the final price you will 
be selling it, Am intrested. so kindly get back to me with the pics 
if available so that we can know what to do next. 
Thanks


----------



## Andy Bro (Aug 24, 2003)

*Re: 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (kofoworola)*

At first I thought he just spoke poor english which is not uncommon, but after reading all his other posts, I smell a troll.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

yeah, like from Nigeria...willing to pay with bank check or wire transfer - of course for more than the selling price so you can send the balance to his relative....


----------



## 16Vjettacoupe (Jan 13, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OhioBenz* »_those OEM are face sealing plugs, replace them with the short NPT plugs....

exactly I thought he was using NPT plugs and they still stuck out.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (16Vjettacoupe)*

there's a short (flush) NPT


----------



## TurboXpert (Jul 15, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*

Wondering if someone can lend some help as i am at my wit's end with this problem.................

Specs: 16v 2.0L running on CE1 digi2.
The car cuts out often and wont start back up. I narrowed it down to it not getting any spark from the coil. Ive changed the obvious things (coil, ing. mod. etc.......) and it still dies on me. It also bucks at cruising speed. I watch my A/F guage hit lean everytime it bucks. For some reason the guage ist cycling (yes it is hooked up correctly) it will cycle for a bit then stick on rich for a bit But my main problem is it cutting out on me. Ive ran through the entire harness for cracked or broken wires, ive opened the computer to make sure nothing was fried. Ive checked it all it seems and yet im still having the problem. Also while the ign. is on i plug and unplug the ign. module while the coil wire is off the dis (grounding of the valvecover). Its lie now when i plug and unplug it a few times till it stops sparking only then it will start.

My question is does the ign switch play a part in the coil having spark? What else do i need to be checking? what will cause the the coil not to have spark? All grounds are good including the ground strap by the coil.
In the 6 yrs ive been on vortex this is actually the frst time ive asked for help so you know im stumped and this is coming from a person that makes his living building VW's. Ive been at this for almost a month. and ive had to tow the car home 10x's this past month















any help would be appreciated

-Dreadz


----------



## Andy Bro (Aug 24, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (TurboXpert)*

I had a similar problem with my car, one of the leads for the ignition module had pushed itself back out of the connector and was making intermettent contact.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (TurboXpert)*

yes weve had a bad ignition switch do something similar in a digi-2 8v
you probly know the trick in pulling those - we got pretty good at it


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (TurboXpert)*

this might also be the dreaded MAF vibration issue. basically the connector vibrates and loses contact with the MAF and causes car to either cut fuel (my case, once in a blue moon) or die and not restart (more common). clean and check that connection. because the AF gauge not moving is the sign i get everytime it does that. then .............nothing, o wait power again.


----------



## docspeed1 (Apr 26, 2002)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rychas1* »_this might also be the dreaded MAF vibration issue. basically the connector vibrates and loses contact with the MAF and causes car to either cut fuel (my case, once in a blue moon) or die and not restart (more common). clean and check that connection. because the AF gauge not moving is the sign i get everytime it does that. then .............nothing, o wait power again.









Yep, I've had that too on a Digi2 8v.


----------



## radomang60 (Dec 5, 2006)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

I found the issue. It was a bad and/or wrong ECU. Seem like the previous owner used the wrong ECU. I put in a fferent ECU (from a 90 CE1 Digi2 Golf) and the ar runs great. no more bucking at idle speed. Im hoping it solved the cutting off issues as i havent jumped on the highway yet. *fingers crossed*


----------



## Andy Bro (Aug 24, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (radomang60)*

I had a similar problem with mine, I actually wound up killing that ECU but when I replaced it some other problems went away, like the fact that it wouldn't rev past 2.5k


----------



## rjvwryder (Dec 22, 2006)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

do you think i can put a 16 valve in my MKIII i think my tranny will bolt up to that engine? my MKIII has a 2.0 block so its pretty much similar but with a smaller head and the motor mounts are the same i think............


----------



## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rjvwryder)*

here ya go: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1535079


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rjvwryder)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rjvwryder* »_do you think i can put a 16 valve in my MKIII i think my tranny will bolt up to that engine? my MKIII has a 2.0 block so its pretty much similar but with a smaller head and the motor mounts are the same i think............ 

the link above is great if you are doing an ABA-16v combo. If I read your question right - you just want to drop a complete 2.0-16v in??
All you will need from the above link then is the parts that allow you to run the Digi fuel injection - i.e. the fuel rail, injector cups, fpr etc.
Everything else is a bolt-in swap.


----------



## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OhioBenz* »_
the link above is great if you are doing an ABA-16v combo. If I read your question right - you just want to drop a complete 2.0-16v in??
All you will need from the above link then is the parts that allow you to run the Digi fuel injection - i.e. the fuel rail, injector cups, fpr etc.
Everything else is a bolt-in swap.
dropping a 9A in more complicated because you need to attach a trigger wheel for the crank sensor, etc. (since the Mk III is already Motronic it would not be wise to go back to digi II) not to mention installing an older engine in a later chassis.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (vwpat)*

yeah - forgot about that...but theres some kits available for that. Has anyone run the motronic on a 16v like that? 
Sure would beat having to build a motor/combo if all you want is an EFI 2.0-16v.


----------



## TurboXpert (Jul 15, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*

thought i'd share a pic or 2 of my baby.








Only issue im having with it now is that it stumbles sometime when its warm and trying to start it. It doesnt happen often and i just shut it off and on, after that its fine.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (TurboXpert)*

im back!!! fresh head and parts. lets go


----------



## GutlessLump (May 20, 2006)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

what do you have now?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (GutlessLump)*

similar setup, just newer head and relaterd gaskets and crap. nothin fancy.


----------



## snowj420 (Jan 25, 2007)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

what is a "Digifast Chip from vw pilot on the tex"? i'm about to do a swap and this is the only thing i can't figure out from your post. everything else is crystal clear. thanks for posting this in such detail. it's going to make this little dream of mine come true







finally, a hot little 16v (from my 87) into a beautiful 91. i can't wait to post pics of it when it's done.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (snowj420)*

[email protected] just ask for a chip. best $ ull spend on this swap. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## GutlessLump (May 20, 2006)

agreed, it really smooths everything out, just dont expect a hp gain. i really didnt notice anything other than better drivability.


----------



## MFZERO (Mar 13, 2002)

just wanted to throw these in here, dyno'd my swap with just a header, 264's, stock digi2 everything else, removed the inlet fom the air box and deleted one muffler:


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (MFZERO)*

nice power. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## MFZERO (Mar 13, 2002)

*Re: (rychas1)*

thanks! everyone there was impressed when I hit that. I think the car may have been off for all of about 5 minutes after i drove 40 minutes to the dyno then I went right in and was strapped down. i think it might be a little higher if it were cooled off. need to chip it to get the a/f better


----------



## Jankenstein (Aug 1, 2002)

*Re: (MFZERO)*

Nice Thread you guys got here. i havent had time to read the whole thing but i did happen to find a few people that have been expieriencing similer idle issues at start up...but have found little in terms of a solution? 
let me start by mentioning that i completed my swap 2 years ago this spring. i kept mostly everything stock with the excpiton of a chip and the standard breathing mods. and i must say it was by far the most simple way to put a 16V into a late mk2! Everything went Smoothe and with the excption of having my feed/return fuel lines swithched somehow







... 
the car started/ran/revved and pulled hard off the first crank. the only issue that had me purplexed was that of a serious bogging when i gave it full throttle from idle. i thought it was an ignition issue but with everything set up to the book the hesitation was quite evedant. 
after alot of playing around, trying slightly different settings of timing Air/fuel mixture and idle i finally got it to idle just over 900 rpm and rev up smoothely right from idle...to 7000(as far as ive taken it)....
However it comes not with out SACRAFICE.








since clearing this hesitation up it has the worst time finding an idle for about the first 30 secconds after start up. it revs up and dies off back and forth seemingly hunting for a specific range. it always settles down and is problem free with great idle and strong accelleration. 
i havent tried setting back to exact spec because its only been taken out slightly. 
As for that problem ill keep plugging away at a few ideas that i have to solve this and ill keep updatad.
But one thing i have been curious about is my crankcase breather hose. Should that be meterd air or not ive seen people run it both ways. into the intake pipe, into the bottom fo the air box and not at all with just a little cone filter on it. whats standard? id like to hear any input on this. 
other than that i couldent have a more reliable fun to drive mk2 for the money i have into it!
thanks for reading
cheers
_Modified by mikejank at 10:29 PM 2-13-2007_


_Modified by mikejank at 8:05 PM 2-16-2007_


----------



## ryansux (Jan 18, 2004)

*Re: (mikejank)*

unplug your isv, and set the idle manually....yay I hate those isv's


----------



## Jankenstein (Aug 1, 2002)

*Re: (ryansux)*

ive done that before and it wont start when its cold that way.....or maby its when its warm..i cant remember. dident work for me
agree on the hatred for those POS ISV's!


----------



## gruvismalt11 (Mar 1, 2004)

*Re: (mikejank)*

iv never had a problem with my isv being unplugged in fact it seemed to clear up idle issues. i would not suggest using a cone filter this method has proven to be dirty


----------



## 8mann (Jul 15, 2001)

*Re: (mikejank)*

If I didn't know any better, I would have thought I wrote your message. I have the exact same idle issues you describe. I have tried a number of things and can't seem to resolve them. Maybe my next move would be to remove the ISV. 
I am curious to hear what people think on the Crankcase vent. I have had it vented into the intake and also floating loose. Didn't notice any difference other than the build up of oil in the intake. My current setup is just floating the hose into the bottom of the filter box.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (8mann)*

my crankcase vent is routed into the intake. i took it apart recently when i did my timing belt. for 2 years of beating the snot out of this PL, i had very little oil on my throttle body. ive seen filters slapped on the end, but why fix what aint broke http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## GutlessLump (May 20, 2006)

*Re: (8mann)*


_Quote, originally posted by *8mann* »_. I have had it vented into the intake and also floating loose. Didn't notice any difference other than the build up of oil in the intake. 

put some steel wool in the top of the vent line to catch the oil...works fine. just make sure that it doesnt have a way to get into the engine. i just crammed some in there and it never moves and still breathes just fine.
i've ran my vent open to atmosphere and back to the box, noticed no difference in tail pipe emissions or performance either way.


----------



## vdubmike2 (Sep 21, 2004)

*Re: (GutlessLump)*

if your swapping digiII into a cis 16v car do you have the change the fuel pump? i know the cis unit runs about 70psi while the digiII unit runs only about 30psi, would it wreck the fuel pressure regulator or is it fine the way it is? thanks


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (vdubmike2)*

it has been done before, but i cant recall the results. scrape this thread real good. its in here.


----------



## MKII91'GTI (Sep 12, 2006)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

ok with this swap....is there a good difference...or a bad difference.....more power....less power.....etc.....i know if i were to do this...i have the opition of boost....but is there a huge change in anything.....cuz to tell u the truth...im tried of mine....cis-e motronic..


----------



## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MKII91'GTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MKII91’GTI* »_ok with this swap....is there a good difference...or a bad difference.....more power....less power.....etc.....i know if i were to do this...*i have the opition of boost*....but is there a huge change in anything.....cuz to tell u the truth...im tried of mine....cis-e motronic..
Good difference, more smoother power but I would not boost with digi II, it is not digi I.


----------



## RDM (Apr 18, 2005)

*Re: (norcalstyle)*

heres another semi successful swap. definitely going to swap to MS in the future.


----------



## 91GolfGL (Feb 17, 2005)

What wiring harness can you use the 8V , 16V or either one?
And what would you have to due to switch a digifont 2 car over CIS or what the 16V came as?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (91GolfGL)*

use the 8v one. u only have to lengthen the injector harness.


----------



## 91GolfGL (Feb 17, 2005)

Thanks. But what if i can only get a 16V one will it still work.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (91GolfGL)*

a 16v harness? not on digi2. different sensors.


----------



## Andy Bro (Aug 24, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (snowj420)*

Alright guys, I've been having this intermittent problem that I thought I've fixed a few times, but so far I'm stumped. Its a '92 Jetta Digi 2 2.0 16v and its running rich all the time, I rev it up and I have a ton of black carbon shooting out the exhaust. The old engine that was in the car had a ton of carbon in the cylinders. I've replaced the MAF with another one I had when I had the problem a while ago, and it seemed to go away, I still had a gas smell in the oil, but the stuttering and lack of power went away. But now, with the new engine in, different CTS's by the way, I have the problem again, and its as bad as ever. I put a new O2 sensor on it, and I just checked and its putting out 300~600 mV at idle.
The CTS is putting out about 3400 ohms, and even when I jumper the connector with a wire, it still runs rich if smell the exhaust. I don't know what else could cause it?
It may be related or not, but I have a funky idle where sometimes it will idle at 1300, other times at 800, but a vacuum leak would cause it to run lean, and I don't have any other symptoms of a vacuum leak, I don't think so at least. I have another ECU I'm going to throw at it this afternoon, but I wanted to hear what you guys have to say about it.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Andy Bro)*

what ur ecu look like? stock? good condition?


----------



## JetBlack16Valve (Jun 11, 2006)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

Ive been reading thru this thread and it seems like people are making pretty decent hp gains. I have all my digi 2 stuff in boxes in the garage from when I swapped in my 16v...looking to do some tinkering and debated this before. also debated going digi and boosting. But if I can make some gains essentially for free then I might just do this to start. Whats everyones round about power gains?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (JetBlack16Valve)*

hard to say if anyone is 'gaining' power by using the digi2 management. after all, its not a 'power-making-easily' system. tho some have made more than stock numbers, mod for mod, over CIS-E or motronic, but again...some...few...very few. but a lot has been proven with this system, and a lot more to go for those that want to make the most of it. most ppl give up and go to something easier like msns or digi1. untuned, on basically a stock 1.8, i made 104/104 thru a 3spd tranny. not big numbers by far, other than that the power was peaked at 6300


----------



## JetBlack16Valve (Jun 11, 2006)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

then is it not recommended to go this way?


----------



## Andy Bro (Aug 24, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rychas1* »_what ur ecu look like? stock? good condition?

Yup, the ECU is stock, I swapped out another stock one and got the same effect. I ran about 10k on the swap so far, and I had some problems with a bad MAF that gave me a nasty stuttering problem, now I have a problem with it running way rich (a few thousand miles after the last problem). It has a new O2 sensor, CTS checks out ok, ECU wiring tests checked out ok. A suggestion I got was to swap out the FPR with a known good one, and to blast out the return line in case that clogged. Other than that, I'm honestly stumped. There must be something I'm overlooking.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Andy Bro)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JetBlack16Valve* »_then is it not recommended to go this way?

if the car did not come with digi2, i would not waste time installing it. most ppl who have digi2 16v, like me, had digi2 already on the 8v. dont make more work for yourself. now, if u have digi2 already, it IS the way to go. easy swap and more power from the 16v. if ur looking for serious power tho, this is NOT the way to go. digi1, msns, standalone, etc is, especially for turbo or supercharged 16v









_Quote, originally posted by *Andy Bro* »_
Yup, the ECU is stock, I swapped out another stock one and got the same effect. I ran about 10k on the swap so far, and I had some problems with a bad MAF that gave me a nasty stuttering problem, now I have a problem with it running way rich (a few thousand miles after the last problem). It has a new O2 sensor, CTS checks out ok, ECU wiring tests checked out ok. A suggestion I got was to swap out the FPR with a known good one, and to blast out the return line in case that clogged. Other than that, I'm honestly stumped. There must be something I'm overlooking.

ECU needs a chip, but first check the fpr. other than that, if it aint a ground or vaccuum, i dont know. maybe someone else can chime?


----------



## njnene78 (Dec 8, 2006)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

if the car did not come with digi2, i would not waste time installing it. most ppl who have digi2 16v, like me, had digi2 already on the 8v. dont make more work for yourself. now, if u have digi2 already, it IS the way to go. easy swap and more power from the 16v. if ur looking for serious power tho, this is NOT the way to go. digi1, msns, standalone, etc is, especially for turbo or supercharged 16v 

my jetta was at one time digi2 but some did the swap to 16v when i bough the vehicle and now i want to try digi2 but keep the 16v what do i need.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (njnene78)*


_Quote, originally posted by *njnene78* »_ my jetta was at one time digi2 but some did the swap to 16v when i bough the vehicle and now i want to try digi2 but keep the 16v what do i need.









so ur saying the car was once digi2, then someone put in a 16v with 16v management? and u wanna go back to digi2, keeping the 16v? if that is correct, all u need is a digi2 harness and the digi2 sensors. but if the car runs fine the way it is, leave it!


----------



## JetBlack16Valve (Jun 11, 2006)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

hey did i hear it right when someone once said a digi 2 harness can be converted to run digi 1


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (JetBlack16Valve)*

yea the guys at SNS here in atl figured it out. i have yet to see a running system..and i think in the end, it is still easier just to use a whole digi1 sys. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## JetBlack16Valve (Jun 11, 2006)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

if there is no benefit to digi 2 over cis then why not swap everything in from the cis?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (JetBlack16Valve)*

your not swapping anything but the 16v engine. 8 more valves and tons more high end power. for example in my case, my 8v pooped out...i needed an engine, my mechanic had a 16v, in it went. i had no goal at that time other than a functioning daily car. then i went nutz














i was saying that very few people will yank out a good runnng cis or motronic, just to run their 16v on digifant 2. im sure it has happened, jsut not very often.


----------



## 16Vjettacoupe (Jan 13, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

I'm on the back burner changing to digi 2 untill winter time. Can't wait though, Digi 2 looks cleaner under the hood and my wife's car runs nice with it on a 8v. Here's what I'm starting with


----------



## GutlessLump (May 20, 2006)

how do you like that nitrous setup? i've been thinking about spraying mine.


----------



## 16Vjettacoupe (Jan 13, 2003)

*Re: (GutlessLump)*

Easy setup with the plate and all. Pain in the a** to work on the car with all the lines in the way. If I do the digi 2 setup I'm going to try and cut the shot back but stay with the direct port.


----------



## diceman469 (Sep 3, 2003)

*Re: (16Vjettacoupe)*

Ok I'm going to try here before starting a new thread:
I'm in the process of swapping a 9A/PL hybrid motor to replace my tired 8v in a 92 Cabriolet. The engine is from an unknown source, pulled from another cabby a purchased for this swap. Here's my problem:
The alternator won't fit. I'm not sure if it's the alternator or the bracket. The donor car doesn't have AC but mine does. However, even though the casings are different, neither the 8v or 16v alternator fits. Unfortunately I'm at work so my searching is limited (no linked pics are viewable). The only pic I've been able to view show the alternator higher and more in front of the manifold than my setup. All I need to know if I have the right support bracket and the wrong alternator, or vise versa?.
I'm sorry this is vague. I'm just trying to get some info before I leave. I'm going to try to hit the junkyard on the way home.
TIA,
Austin


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (diceman469)*

u need a 16v alt bracket


----------



## diceman469 (Sep 3, 2003)

*Re: (rychas1)*

Thanks for the reply!
I went to the junkyard today and saw what I needed. Unfortunately I didn't have any allen sets on me, so I'll be going back tomorrow to pull everything I need.
Hopefully I'll be 16v by the end of the week!


----------



## 16Vjettacoupe (Jan 13, 2003)

*Re: (diceman469)*

okay I'm slowly getting more parts together. I just bought a techtonics chip, a p-flow kit for an 8v digi, and a big bore for $80. not bad huh? don't really need the big bore I think and the p flow is questionable.
My question is with the techtonics chip on 16v digi do I need to use the knock sensor bushing that they provide for the 8v?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (16Vjettacoupe)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16Vjettacoupe* »_
My question is with the techtonics chip on 16v digi do I need to use the knock sensor bushing that they provide for the 8v? 

u dont need to, but why not. give us a report back on how it works on a 16v @ 7k


----------



## mxman (Jul 31, 2003)

*Re: (rychas1)*

nice jobs guys... 
what fuel pressure are you running to hit those flat fueling curves at 14.7 ? cant you just up the fuel pressure more?
just so you know this engine makes top power at around 13:1 afr..
i used to run a wideband in my digi2 setup, if you'r ehaving trouble with it during hotstarts or idling hot or wahtever... adjust the allan screw under the cap near the outlet of the vam (near the tbody)
and you can get your idle afr to 14.7:1








i am running megasquirt, it's great, sounds good, honestly with a bmw vam it would probably be fine


----------



## 16Vjettacoupe (Jan 13, 2003)

*Re: (rychas1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rychas1* »_
u dont need to, but why not. give us a report back on how it works on a 16v @ 7k









sure







i'll do some more research and get back to you on that.


----------



## microzimmer (Dec 19, 2005)

alright so i have been looking around for awhile now and havent found anything...so how much different would it be to swap a 16v in if i have digi 1. I have a 1991 california gti 1.8l 8v running off digi 1. Would it be any different since digi 1 is only a little bit different from digi 2? i wonder if anyone else has experience with this? let me know thanks


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (microzimmer)*

the only difference would be the adaptability factor of the cali digi1. in other words, your engine would 'tune' itself, unlike digi2. other than that, it _should_ feel the same. i know a guy who has a cali digi1 16v, and he didnt indicate a major difference. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Gede Nimbo (Aug 13, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (BOOFWAH)*

As I have heard on here about installing the 8V digi 2 injector cups into a Passat Manifold being easy, I need to know if the Digi injector cups will fit into a Scirocco 16V intake manifold? I'm installing a 9a conversion into my 92 cabriolet utilizing the Scirocco 16V intake manifold... 
Someone must know!!!


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Gede Nimbo)*

they fit. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Gede Nimbo (Aug 13, 2004)

*Re: (mrkrad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mrkrad* »_









Regarding the single coolant outlet, what model VW Digi does this come off of since my Cabriolet has the 2 outlet version from the from of the head?? Unfortunately the dealer I go to is quite stupid when it comes to looking up parts...







Where do I get that nice looking billet adapter????


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (Gede Nimbo)*

single outlet, any 16v. adapter, bbm. but u dont need the adapter.


----------



## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

*Re: (Gede Nimbo)*

This is what i used








Forgot what model VW it comes from but i can use both sensors
BUT...








I had to fill in these holes for it to work


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

do you have a pic of the outlet itself? it looks like you have something else plugged on it? 
I might be able to find it on my parts program...


----------



## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

I can hold up to 3 sensors and an extra coolant hose. I used a rubber cap & a plug for the ones i weren't using.










_Modified by I Wuz BottlFedG60 at 4:14 PM 6-29-2007_


----------



## Gede Nimbo (Aug 13, 2004)

*Re: (I Wuz BottlFedG60)*

In the second picture you blocked off the 2 sensor outlets, Does VW sell that metal plug to cover the one that is open in the pic that is dripping oil?


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (Gede Nimbo)*

most of those plugs can be replaced with either NPT low profile pipe plugs found at industrial supply places. Most Injection Molds have them in them in the waterlines.... No putty required LOL.


----------



## Gede Nimbo (Aug 13, 2004)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

IM sent to OhioBenz http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (Gede Nimbo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Gede Nimbo* »_IM sent to OhioBenz http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

replied


----------



## Gede Nimbo (Aug 13, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== )*

*O.k I'm pretty much just doinh the final stages of the 16V Digi 2 into my Cabby but I have a few qestions.. I read the above install regarding the intake boot and tube for a MK2 but I used the Scirocco 16V set up into my MK1*

*1.* What do I use for the Scirocco 16V intake manifold? the stock Digi 8V boot? 
*2.* Where do I mount the ISV in correlation to the Intake rubber tube. 
*3.* What do I do to the breather outlet on the front of the block? DO I connect it to the crank case 8V breather on the intake tube?
*4.* Where do I get the vacuum for the top of the FPR? 

She's almost done.. Please help...


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== ) (Gede Nimbo)*



Gede Nimbo
[B said:


> 1.[/B] What do I use for the Scirocco 16V intake manifold? the stock Digi 8V boot?
> *2.* Where do I mount the ISV in correlation to the Intake rubber tube.
> *3.* What do I do to the breather outlet on the front of the block? DO I connect it to the crank case 8V breather on the intake tube?
> *4.* Where do I get the vacuum for the top of the FPR?
> ...


1) I would use the Rocco bellows and adapt it to the Digi AFM - locate the AFM where the fuel distributor used to be?
2) I would plumb it just like it used to be on the Rocco?? have to think on that some more.
3) If you use the Rocco inlet you should have a bung hole to plumb it to just like the stock 16v?
4) Off the back of the intake - just like the Rocco did.... "T" into the same source where you get the heater control etc.


----------



## golfvr6power (May 15, 2007)

WOW cool thread i was just looking for some information on a subject like this and here i am and a lot of good information thanks guys 


_Modified by golfvr6power at 12:30 PM 7-3-2007_


----------



## golfvr6power (May 15, 2007)

*Re: (I Wuz BottlFedG60)*

That looks like an 8v part (the top pic) with the two sensors almost certain







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## volks25 (Dec 14, 2001)

Wow, some great engine bay shots in this thread!
I noticed many seem to have the same problem I have, the intake pipe (when using a G/J/P intake manifold) rubs on the timing belt. Anyone have a solution? The timing belt cover doesn't fit as I have the 16v into a mk1.


----------



## Gede Nimbo (Aug 13, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +==*

I tried to check all of the archives and I can't find an answer for this one, I am almost done with my digifant 2 16V conversion and need to know what throttle cable do I actually use? I decided to go with the Scirocco 16V intake becuase of my car being a Cabriolet but now I need to know what cable and cable bracket do I use to mount it... I have 3 other things I need to finish up to get this car going... Some of the techies must know about this one....
Pics help too.... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Gede Nimbo)*

I'll look tomorrow & see if I can find any info fro u.
Could not find any info in my ETOS or ETKA CD's


----------



## justvwpower (Jul 8, 2007)

*Re: (cdn20VALVE)*

send it 2 me i will try with it


----------



## 20V1.8T (Jan 30, 2006)

*Re: (justvwpower)*

Setup : 2.0L 16v 9A Digi2 w/ ABF Manifold and injectors.
Issues :
Its idleing realy ruff
Clutch seems to stuck depressed (Even though Pedal moves and has pressure)
Crank Case Ventilation Tube, where does it go? (The large hose tube that is directly under the water outlet)


----------



## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OhioBenz* »_most of those plugs can be replaced with either NPT low profile pipe plugs found at industrial supply places. Most Injection Molds have them in them in the waterlines.... No putty required LOL.

For the water outlet i'm using these won't work. They would have to be counter sunk. The outlet in a sense touches the head and low profile plugs just didn't get it flush.


----------



## justvwpower (Jul 8, 2007)

*Re: (forbiddenmk2golf)*

i think u shud spend the $$$$ and buy a bently manual and stop asking these simple DIY questions if u can read the bently can help u i have one and my digi 2 isn't giving me any problems


----------



## justvwpower (Jul 8, 2007)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

hyundai sonatas and fuel injected accents uses the same isv's check them out


----------



## 20V1.8T (Jan 30, 2006)

*Re: (justvwpower)*

thanks, are you refering to me with the bentley? Well, Iv had a hard time finding a bentley that refers to mk2 DIGI2 and 16v AND ABF. let alone all together. 
thats why I love the VWVortex.


----------



## dab043 (Jun 8, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

Hello
I have a stock (pretty much ) 92 Cabriolet that I am going to put a 92 passat 16v 2.0 into over the winter.
I want to keep the stock location of the airbox... below is what I think I need to do
I will take the whole engine from the passat, and the wiring harness and ECU along with the pressure plate (using the stock trans at this point) sensors and whatever else I saw on the 16v Digfant II FAQ pg 1 list (amazing by the way) 
How I understand it I will also then need a 16v rocco head and TB so that my airbox will be on the drivers side, correct?
Now if I am using the rocco head, what manifold and down pipe will I have to use to connect back up to my 8v exhaust? Will I have to rig something for the throttle cable?
I still have a lot of reading to do, but I have to get this motor in the next week or so and want to make sure I get everything, and know the "extras" that I will need for the kind of swap I want.
thanks in advance


----------



## dab043 (Jun 8, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

sorry miss hit on key board










_Modified by dab043 at 7:52 AM 7-17-2007_


----------



## MFZERO (Mar 13, 2002)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (dab043)*

I think you will need just the 'rocco intake manifold and throttle body.
but that's just my 2 cents.


----------



## golfvr6power (May 15, 2007)

I have started to collect parts to do this conversion i got a BahnBrenner fuel rail and its a beauty


----------



## 16valvesoffury (Mar 17, 2007)

Just wondering if anyone knows if all digi2 ecu's are the same. I have two, two different brands but both part numbers are the same exept for the last two letters. When i take them apart they are both visibly different but they are different brands. I was wondering if they both did the same thing on a digi2 16v. Thanks


----------



## 20V1.8T (Jan 30, 2006)

*Vacuum Line Help needed!*

Iv got a 2.0L 16v (9A) with an ABF Intake (Including : Injectors, Fuel rail, and FPR) And I need some help with where the Vacuum lines go, as well as the car is running UBER-UBER-Rich.
Iv ordered a Chip from Powerchips. It should be here soon.


----------



## OLAK (Jul 12, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (dab043)*








passat 16v installed in 91 cab. Battery likes the trunk better









_Modified by OLAK at 7:00 AM 8-25-2007_


_Modified by OLAK at 7:02 AM 8-25-2007_


----------



## SuperChicken13 (Dec 6, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OLAK)*

One more for the FAQ.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (SuperChicken13)*

i spy a serp conversion








fwiw, i havent posted here in a while, but my 16v is running the best ever. recent motor mounts, cleaned and tightened grounds to body and 02 sensor...night and day acceleration! still got some mods up my sleeve i have yet to do, but its running great! good luck to all other prrojects


----------



## SuperChicken13 (Dec 6, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rychas1* »_i spy a serp conversion










Yes sir, and A/C + P/S delete.


----------



## Chapel (Jun 23, 1999)

*Re: (urbaanboheemik)*

I assume all the same things can be done using a PL engine?


----------



## MFZERO (Mar 13, 2002)

*Re: (Chapel)*

shouldn't be too different if at all


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (Chapel)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Chapel* »_I assume all the same things can be done using a PL engine?

of course, i have a PL.


----------



## ryansux (Jan 18, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (SuperChicken13)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SuperChicken13* »_One more for the FAQ.










very clean, nice looking swap.


----------



## losvdubz (Sep 12, 2007)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (ValveCoverGasket)*

do u have any idea how i can change my cluster in my 16v passat without the speed cable that comes from the trany. bucause ive brought three new cluster and i hate that grinding sound coming from the speed gauge and the faster u go the worse it sound what can i do


----------



## Chapel (Jun 23, 1999)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (losvdubz)*

how do you deal with the low redline?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Chapel)*

what low redline?

_Quote, originally posted by *Chapel* »_how do you deal with the low redline?


----------



## Chapel (Jun 23, 1999)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rychas1* »_what low redline?

Doesn't DIGI2 redline at 6500rpms?
What do you do if you build a cammed 16v and need it to rev to 7200?


----------



## ryansux (Jan 18, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Chapel)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Chapel* »_
Doesn't DIGI2 redline at 6500rpms?
What do you do if you build a cammed 16v and need it to rev to 7200?

you say thanks to digi 2 for the fun, and go mega squirt. digi 2 is a super easy swap, and is reliable if you do everything right. high revs=the biggest problem. If you're running a 2.0 it's not so bad though.


----------



## Chapel (Jun 23, 1999)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (ryansux)*

what's the stock redline of a 9A or ABA 16v?


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Chapel)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Chapel* »_what's the stock redline of a 9A or ABA 16v?

6800 but a 9A Motronic with a TT or Garrett chip can be 7200 or higher.
My 90 GLI with the TT chip went past 7200....


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Chapel)*

my PL goes to 6800 usable, but can go higher. my peak power is @ 6300, so i dont _need_ to go higher than that for now










_Modified by rychas1 at 3:30 PM 11-1-2007_


----------



## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (losvdubz)*

Update for those who don't know.
I shaved my bay and hid my wire harness
Stitch welded the seams and smooth them out. Welded up the firewall holes and repainted everything
















And this is about 95% done in this pic









Question, Has anyone deleted their ISV? I removed mine and just wanna make sure there won't be a problem?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Capt.Dreadz)*

i dont know why ppl remove the isv, mine has been solid


----------



## a2crazy (May 23, 2006)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II running problem*

Hoping someone can assist me with my running problems. I think the cause is my 02 sensor but not really all that sure. When I start the car, it idles up to 3,000 RPM, drops down and then dies. I can keep the car running by applying throttle or gas to the car but it runs extremely rich. When the car does run, very rough idle and it wants to stall out which it will eventually do. This is a recent problem which seemed to come out of no where.
Any thoughts or suggestions or comments on how to remedy the problem would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advancae. Hans


----------



## MFZERO (Mar 13, 2002)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Capt.Dreadz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Capt.Dreadz* »_
Question, Has anyone deleted their ISV? I removed mine and just wanna make sure there won't be a problem?
I removed mine when I was driving the car to clean it up a bit more. when the car would first be started in the AM (this was during the spring time) you would have to keep your foot on the throttle for a little bit to get it to warm up. else it would stall (car has cams, might not stall if it were stock). 
I put it back on when I decided it was time to sell the car tho


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II running problem (a2crazy)*

o2, cts, idle screw. reset ecu when done. report back.


----------



## ITBVWRacer (Sep 16, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II running problem (rychas1)*

What happened to all the pics on the first page of this thread???
I was using them as a guide for my swap in my sig


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II running problem (ITBVWRacer)*

old server? the info is still good, and there are plently of us that can take the needed pics for newbies. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## ITBVWRacer (Sep 16, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II running problem (rychas1)*

Thanks for calling m a noob















There were some good pics of the sensor locations that i wanted to use. I am well versed in the ways of the dub... this is, however, my first 16v digi swap.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II running problem (ITBVWRacer)*

i like soooooooooooo was not referring to u, but hey, ur a 16v digi2 nuub








those head sensor pics are floating around the mk2 forums, so we can just begin recollecting them.


----------



## ITBVWRacer (Sep 16, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II running problem (rychas1)*

Thats cool, you can call me a noob, i am to the 16v conv and have only been on the vortex for a few months, so i guess i am in some regards








Sounds good to me about the pics.... Anyone have some good ones??


----------



## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II running problem (rychas1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rychas1* »_o2, cts, idle screw. reset ecu when done. report back.

Is this refering to me & can you be a bit more specific

Also, Can i adapt the WOT switch harness to work on a Passat 16v TB. I don't wanna swap the switch itself.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II running problem (Capt.Dreadz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Capt.Dreadz* »_
Is this refering to me & can you be a bit more specific


no, that was to 'a2crazy'. and to your other question, i dont know. i cant see why not. the signals read the same, no?


----------



## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II running problem (rychas1)*

Digi uses a T2 plug, Passat T3. Extra wire that im assuming is a ground. I need to look into it.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II running problem (Capt.Dreadz)*

makes sense. let us know what u find. but i know for sure others (few) have used the 16v tb, with switches. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif i think the 8v one just saves headache. good info tho http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II running problem (rychas1)*

Eh, Passat 16v TB won't work because the plug is also a idle control switch. I went back to the 8v TB and bolted the 16v linkage (just the part that the cable connects to)


----------



## big d dawg (Jul 21, 2006)

Ive got a question, whats needed to swap a 16v to an already existing ABA setup running digi 2? ive got the complete 16v in car and running CIS-E. I know i need a new fuel rail, but a possible thicker head gasket? Whats the estimated time on this swap, any info would be appreciated
thnx


_Modified by big d dawg at 7:41 PM 11-22-2007_


----------



## ITBVWRacer (Sep 16, 2005)

*Re: (big d dawg)*


_Quote, originally posted by *big d dawg* »_Ive got a question, whats needed to swap a 16v to an already existing ABA setup running digi 2? ive got the complete 16v in car and running CIS-E. I know i need a new fuel rail, but a possible thicker head gasket? Whats the estimated time on this swap, any info would be appreciated
thnx

I know it is kind of a pain and a lot of reading, but your best bet is to start from the begining and read all 24 pages... not fun, but it is what i did and I now feel 100% about the swap i am doing. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by ITBVWRacer at 12:07 AM 11-23-2007_


_Modified by ITBVWRacer at 12:07 AM 11-23-2007_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (big d dawg)*

this swap mechanically is no different than swapping out the aba and putting in the 16v. easy. start plugging everything up. fuel rail is obvious. what is hard to say is waht does an aba run that a 16v or pf/rv doesnt? i say start plugging and see whats left over. and yes, read all the pages to make sure something is not forgotten.
cold start valve ( http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 16v, http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif digi2, aba??)
o2 (3wire 16v, 3 wire digi2, 4 wire aba)
throttle plugs (digi2 only)
fuel injector harness (lengthen wires for 16v)
hall sensor (same for digi2 and 16v)
cts (use digi2 or spade for 16v, aba??)
that what i could think off the top of my head, so yes, read!!!


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (big d dawg)*


_Quote, originally posted by *big d dawg* »_Ive got a question, whats needed to swap a 16v to an already existing ABA setup running digi 2? ive got the complete 16v in car and running CIS-E. I know i need a new fuel rail, but a possible thicker head gasket? Whats the estimated time on this swap, any info would be appreciated
thnx
_Modified by big d dawg at 7:41 PM 11-22-2007_

now if the question is related to putting the 16v head etc onto the existing ABA bottom, then theres a lot more involved that will involve pulling the motor out - swapping intermediate shafts, crank timing pulleys etc...


----------



## Brad Boardwell (Dec 12, 2004)

Good Grief!!!!! 24 pages?? It would be nice if all of the pages had nothing but good, solid info to read through... BUT DAMN!!!! Most of the pages is nothign but junk...no tech data what-so-ever.
Props to the few who have posted good, relevant data... 
This FAQ's needs to be cleaned out....
I know that will take someone some time...but good grief...what a waste of reading....


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (Brad Boardwell)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Brad Boardwell* »_Good Grief!!!!! 24 pages?? It would be nice if all of the pages had nothing but good, solid info to read through... BUT DAMN!!!! Most of the pages is nothign but junk...no tech data what-so-ever.
Props to the few who have posted good, relevant data... 
This FAQ's needs to be cleaned out....
I know that will take someone some time...but good grief...what a waste of reading....

Well - not flaming - but your post just added more non-usable data...
Do what I did, highlight , copy & paste the "good" stuff into a Word document and save it.... Add more as it becomes available. Not a big job really.


----------



## Brad Boardwell (Dec 12, 2004)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

Well - not flaming - but your post just added more non-usable data...
Do what I did, highlight , copy & paste the "good" stuff into a Word document and save it.... Add more as it becomes available. Not a big job really.

How about posting that word document that you have saved up...and lets start a new FAQ's that would benefit everyone.....


----------



## oopseyesharted (Mar 2, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (cdn20VALVE)*

I am doing this in the next couple weeks. Lots of great info here. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SuperChicken13 (Dec 6, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (oopseyesharted)*

FINALLY started and drove the car today. 4 Years in the making, longest Digi-2 16v Swap evar!
Last Night:








Tonight: 








Decent pics to follow once I find my camera charger.


----------



## oopseyesharted (Mar 2, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (SuperChicken13)*

that looks great really good man http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (SuperChicken13)*

is that a no ac/ps serp conv?


----------



## SuperChicken13 (Dec 6, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

Yeah. Bracket, pullies are off of a MK3 Golf CL, VR6 Alternator. Serp tensioner is off of a AAZ turbo diesel (metal back to clear the water outlet on the head).

_Quote, originally posted by *rychas1* »_is that a no ac/ps serp conv?


----------



## oopseyesharted (Mar 2, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II running problem (Capt.Dreadz)*

ok. so i am putting a 1.8 liter 16v in a 90 cabby.
The car needs fuel pumps. I was wondering what aftermarket fuel pump could be used in place of the factory pumps?


----------



## oopseyesharted (Mar 2, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II running problem (oopseyesharted)*


_Quote, originally posted by *oopseyesharted* »_ok. so i am putting a 1.8 liter 16v in a 90 cabby.
The car needs fuel pumps. I was wondering what aftermarket fuel pump could be used in place of the factory pumps?

No ideas guys??

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II running problem (oopseyesharted)*

depends on how much work u want to do...
Walbro or Aeromotive in-line from http://www.SummitRacing.com


----------



## oopseyesharted (Mar 2, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II running problem (OhioBenz)*

What work would need to be done?
i know that the external pump and box would be removed.
I have found alot of pumps that would provide the required pressure for digi2 to operate properly. I was just wondering if anyone has gone this route and how they got it done.


----------



## oopseyesharted (Mar 2, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II running problem (oopseyesharted)*

come on homies


----------



## OldSchooled (Feb 6, 2008)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II running problem (oopseyesharted)*

not a bad thread.


----------



## oopseyesharted (Mar 2, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II running problem (OldSchooled)*

Maybe you guys can help as well.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3698686


----------



## SuperChicken13 (Dec 6, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II running problem (oopseyesharted)*

Oh yeah.... new pics:
























Tapped a fitting into the airbox to re-use the 16v breather outlet. Tried to keep the PCV system as OEM as possible to ensure driveability. So far so good, but I did change over to a new 8v ISV.
Put about 600km on the car so far. I need to start looking for a 7200rpm chip and some street cams..... but first, needs to pass our e-test which means fitting a cat behind my TT race header.


----------



## oopseyesharted (Mar 2, 2005)

looks great man. keep us posted


----------



## chekos (Feb 17, 2007)

anyone using a bmw maf can you take a pic of underneath the cap I need to see if I set it back to the stock location. 
Thanks alot.


----------



## Jankenstein (Aug 1, 2002)

*Re: (chekos)*

Is anyone using the AEG oil cap adapter with the breather port in it? I have a serious inclination that my idle problem on start up is due to venting the crankcase into the intake pipe. im going to try one of these adapters and vent right back into the valve cover. any thoughts or input would be much appreciated. 
this is what I'm talking 'bout

















found a bit here... http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1542266

_Modified by Jankenstein at 10:52 AM 4-3-2008_


_Modified by Jankenstein at 9:16 PM 4-7-2008_


----------



## SuperChicken13 (Dec 6, 2003)

*Re: (Jankenstein)*

I have no idle problems at startup with my digi-2 setup.
Here is how I have routed my crank breather... you can see the brass fitting we tapped into the airbox...
I actually had that pop off at one point, didn't make a difference. You could vent directly to atmosphere, but I didn't want any vapors dirtying up my engine bay.










_Modified by SuperChicken13 at 11:21 PM 4-8-2008_


----------



## noface (Jan 5, 2006)

my swap is done but im having starting problems.... it'll run on starter fluid but not on fuel.... I check the rail and im getting pressure but its obvious that its not continuing to spray or hold pressure ive gassed it while it on starter fluid nothing happend ima check the fuel pump relay and the fuse ... any suggestions .........


----------



## junn (May 6, 2008)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

ok so im starting the digi swap and i see a lot of pages here but if anyone has a wiring diagram of where goes evreything tht would help i have a 92 b3 thanks


----------



## hadaki (Sep 8, 2004)

I just completed my transplant.
My engine will go off during driving especialy 
going up hill and traffic jam.








No problem on high way at all.
My car is MK1 1988 Cabriolet convert to 9A 16v.
Using Digiafan wiring.
Any body can help???










_Modified by hadaki at 9:19 PM 5-17-2008_


----------



## junn (May 6, 2008)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (junn)*

do i need to have a relay to power the wiring of the digi and if so what kind of relay thanks


----------



## noface (Jan 5, 2006)

*Re: (noface)*

fixed...... runs great ....it was the computer, i some how shorted it out in a way that it wasnt sending pulsing signals to the injectors.....


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (noface)*

the digi usually fries due to bad grounds so make sure you check that out!!


----------



## junn (May 6, 2008)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II running problem (Capt.Dreadz)*

can someone tell me what kind of relay do i have to use to power the digi 2 wiring and comp


----------



## junn (May 6, 2008)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II running problem (junn)*


----------



## noface (Jan 5, 2006)

next move.....


----------



## junn (May 6, 2008)

*Re: (noface)*

blablablabla







foe what is this about to ask qustions and your supposed to be answered or to talk ****


----------



## skates (Mar 30, 2007)

i have now started to drive my digi2 16v, and love it, the car only has the 50 mill intake, and a super sprint exhaust, and a solid front motor mount, i like the way it sounds throaty and pulls nice around 4000-->4500, and it purs at an idle
but i have also noticed that my digi runs way smother with the 16v, i like the swap, but i wish i could flow more air properly(with out useing a BMW maf, seems to me like its somethinng that would need lots of messing around)

but all in all its great


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (skates)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SuperChicken13 (Dec 6, 2003)

Initial tuning on a stock motor, since then I've switched from 19LB/hr to 24LB/hr injectors.


----------



## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

*Re: (SuperChicken13)*

Okay i got all the parts in front me, so here are a few little oddball questions:
Fuel lines, whats your setup? I have a cis-e jetta 16v, so.....fill me in
I have the 8v throttle body, and after looking at it will I really need the 8v cable...I mean whats so different?
Im sure there will be a few more questions later on but i always think of the stupid little ****.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (SuperChicken13)*

thats some good #s. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 2.0L?


----------



## SuperChicken13 (Dec 6, 2003)

*Re: (Dave926)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Dave926* »_Okay i got all the parts in front me, so here are a few little oddball questions:
Fuel lines, whats your setup? I have a cis-e jetta 16v, so.....fill me in
I have the 8v throttle body, and after looking at it will I really need the 8v cable...I mean whats so different?
Im sure there will be a few more questions later on but i always think of the stupid little ****.

I used custom fuel lines with a BBM fuel rail.
You will need to modify the throttle lever, not the cable... Otherwise you won't get a proper actuation using 8v TB on a 16v manifold.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## DubbinGLI (Aug 4, 2007)

dam. i have a spare 8v golf that doesnt run, and my daily is a cis-e jetta gli..this is such a good idea to do for future plans..but is this worth N/a as well as boost?? thanks for the info as well!


----------



## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

*Re: (SuperChicken13)*

Well i took a better look at my car today and there is a long ass hardline that is the feed for the cis-e. Im either going to use a compression fitting of some sort or clamp the **** out of it. My BBM rail came with a nice barb and some long rubber line on it. 
Maybe a little more detail as to what has to get modified, like a picture or something. Im sure i will figure it out as I go along but pic to send me in the right direction would be nice


----------



## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

*Re: (Dave926)*

Just some recent pic's as its come along way
Shaved, hidden, & filled....








The ride...


----------



## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

*Re: (Capt.Dreadz)*

**UPDATE** 9/3/2008
I am sad to say that I will be moving away from the mkII world. My GTI has reached the end of its life due to rust issues that I simply do not have the time to fix. I have been through a lot with my GTI including a 16v engine build this Digi2 Swap and basically rebuilding the entire car over the course of the last 8 years. I am sad to see it go but I am itching to spend time restoring my 77 Westy that has been in storage for the past 6 years. In order to keep my spirits up during the daily commute I have also purchased myself a little known car called an .:R32 so don't feel too bad for me........








Pic of the ride at the height of its glory.......








I will keep up this FAQ and its pictures as long as I can but if any Vortex admin is willing to take over the maintenance of this FAQ please let me know. 
Before I go I just have one last little piece of technical info regarding this swap that I thought would help everyone out in their efforts to better tune their Digi2 swaps....

==== HOW TO INSTALL AN INNOVATE LC1 WIDEBAND O2 SENSOR AND CONTROL YOUR FUELING ====

I started looking for ways to tune my Digi2 setup better the day after I got it running. The major issue with most Digi2 16v setups is that the Digi2 computer tends to run the motor too lean at higher RPM's. In order to trick the computer and gain control of the fueling I did some research on modifying the O2 sensor signal. What I found is that the Innovate LC1 wideband O2 sensor has programmable analog outputs that can be made to mimic a Narrow band oxygen sensor like the one in our Digi2 cars. As a side bonus I was also able to run my Duostyling air fuel gauge off of the wideband O2 sensor which actually made it an accurate indicator of my air fuel ratio instead something cool to look at while driving.

So how do you do it??
What you need
- 3 Prong Male AMP Connector (Same plug the stock O2 sensor uses to connect to the Digi2 harness)
- Innovate LC1 wideband O2 sensor
- Various electrical connectors and or solder etc.
- Laptop computer with serial port
1) Unplug the O2 sensor. (should be located by the rear passenger side motor mount)
2) Jack up the car and put it on jack stands or better yet use ramps since you will want all the room you can get to remove the O2 sensor.
3) Unbolt your catalytic converter from the down pipe.
4) Remove the stock O2 sensor from the catalytic converter. You will need a special oxygen sensor wrench in order to do this. Also, most O2 sensors can be a real pain to remove so plan ahead just in case you can't get it out. You may need to heat the area where it threads into the cat with a torch in order to get it out.
5) Once the stock O2 sensor is removed, clean the O2 sensor threads out with a spark plug thread chaser that is the same size. You can find these in the tool section of almost any auto parts store.
6) Do Not install the O2 sensor or put the exhaust back together again yet because the O2 sensor should be calibrated in the free air prior to installation.
8) Next wire up the LC1 according to the instructions. It is imperative that you ground all of the grounds to the same place and all of the power wires to the same place. The directions will tell you the same thing but I will tell you from experience that you will have major problems if you do not follow them. I tapped into the existing O2 sensor wire by re-wiring a 3 prong male plug to fit into the existing O2 sensor harness. Makes your life much easier I highly suggest locating one of these plugs, I pulled mine from a junk yard off of a set of throttle body idle switches. Follow this diagram for the connections.








The reason for the switch is that the 12v power supply for the O2 sensor doesn't provide continuous power unless the engine is running. This causes a problem with LC1 because it prevents you from programming it properly. To solve this issue I wired in a switch under the dash that allows me to send power straight to the LC1 for programming and then switch back to the normal O2 power for operation. You can't simply leave the stock O2 sensor wire unplugged because the car will run in limp mode if no O2 sensor is detected. Their may be other solutions to this problem but that is what I did.
9) Calibrate the LC1 according to the instructions
10) Install the O2 sensor and reassemble the exhaust
11) Follow the instructions and set up the O2 sensor to mimic a narrow band O2 sensor.
12) You can now start your car and begin logging data on your laptop.
13) Once you have an idea of how your car is really running you can use the LC1 programming software to adjust the air/fuel ratio of your car by changing the voltage vs. air/fuel ratio curve. You can basically trick the computer into running rich and lean by adjusting the endpoints of the curve.
GOOD LUCK











_Modified by MBRACKLIFFE at 8:53 PM 1-1-2009_


----------



## Oakville_dub (May 8, 2004)

*Re: (MBRACKLIFFE)*

Awesome read! I will now go and try to figure out why my idle is bouncing all over the place. The one question I have is when I come off the highway to a stop and I go to re accelerate sometimes the car bogs and stalls. I have to flutter the gas pedal to get the rpms up to get going again. Its a 2L 16v with digi2.... Any help would be much appreciated


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (Oakville_dub)*

idle screw o-ring


----------



## Oakville_dub (May 8, 2004)

*Re: (rychas1)*

thanks. I'll give it a try next week and let you guys know...


----------



## dk_d_mexican (Aug 29, 2008)

hey im new around here.. i just got a 1991 jetta gli 16v 2.0... just put a head in it but forgot to put the knock sensor in it and i dont know where is supposed to go can some one help please


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (dk_d_mexican)*

b/t 1 and 2. o wait, that on a 1.8. im not 100% sure on the 2.0.


----------



## bluebug300 (Jun 30, 2007)

*Re: (rychas1)*

Hey guys, what would be a good aftermarket fuel pump ( what psi/gpg) to use if converting from CIS...the old pump died


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (bluebug300)*

a digifant pump...easy http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## jettason28 (Nov 9, 2007)

*Re: (docspeed1)*

I finished my swap in the spring, and have been driving relatively problem free all summer... The swap went well, using this thread as my guide, so I figured I'd post how it came out.
Stats:
9A 16v from a 92 GTX
cone filter conversion
stock MAF
8v TB
50mm intake
8v CTS
16v hall sender
digi coolant flange on side of head (to retain stock temp gauge)
BBM fuel rail
BBM crankcase blockoff with line to vented catchcan
A/C and PS delete
stock exhaust mani with TT race downpipe and Borla exhaust
universal Bosch O2 sensor spliced to stock digi connector
digifast chip
ISV and cold start injector delete
I also bypassed the stock oil cooler. I found that the hose with the oil cooler take-offs can be replaced by a mk1 diesel bunny hose to clean it up. I also suspect that the 8v hose with one bend cut off would work.
So, things ran pretty smooth with the following complications:
1. The BBM blockoff plate eliminates the hole to the left of the breather box. Even venting the main section to a catch can, I get blowby past my oil fill cap. I swapped in an early metal cap, and it has helped the issue, but there appears to be a little too much pressure in the head still. I have heard of guys running the 1.8T beetle PCV oil fill takeoff to alleviate this issue.
2. I mounted both my high oil pressure dummy sender and oil pressure gauge sending units off the back of the head. I don't know if it was due to the weight of the gauge sender, or the leverage of having it spaced off of the back of the head, but my fitting broke off in the head and subsequently spewed all my oil onto the highway. The good news is that, after having done the swap myself, I knew the engine well enough that I pulled the engine and tranny, fixed the issue, and reinstalled in an easy day. The dummy now sits in the back of the head, with the gauge sender on the filter flange.
3. The WOT and full closed switches on the TB needed adjustment. At startup, I had a good idle until I revved the engine and the revs stuck at about 5K







That one took a known good MAF, ECU, and TB to figure out.
The swap was all together pretty straight forward, and was worth the headaches to know my car as well as I now do.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif for this thread as a guide. I highly recommend anyone doing the swap actually take the time to read ALL of this thread.
Pic for reference:









_Modified by jettason28 at 11:25 PM 9-24-2008_


_Modified by jettason28 at 11:25 PM 9-24-2008_


----------



## jettason28 (Nov 9, 2007)

*Re: (dk_d_mexican)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dk_d_mexican* »_hey im new around here.. i just got a 1991 jetta gli 16v 2.0... just put a head in it but forgot to put the knock sensor in it and i dont know where is supposed to go can some one help please

The 9A block has two threaded holes on the front of the block, about halfway between the head and oil pan. Remember that the knock sensors are only just beyond hand tight...


----------



## 89JettaCoupe (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (jettason28)*

Looking for a bit of advice, swapped a 16V into a digi2 car a while ago, been driving for about a year or so? Now suddenly it keeps leaking fuel where the lines come into the engine compartment and meet up to the rubber lines. I replace them with new lines a year ago, tried taking them off, clipping the ends to make sure the end wasn't cracked or anything and still it leaks, hose clamps are good, etc. Any ideas?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (89JettaCoupe)*

make sure hose is not split even the slightest...and use fuel hose clamps, much better at saving the hose from splitting than the worm style. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SuperChicken13 (Dec 6, 2003)

*Re: (jettason28)*

I like your setup, nice and clean. How is driveability without the ISV? 
You're not running an oil cooler at all? How are oil temps?
I'm running 250/256 cams right now on a 42mm manifold, torque is nice considering the race header sucks any backpressure out of the system... 
Debating the 50mm if I were to go to bigger cams like 272's.


----------



## jettason28 (Nov 9, 2007)

*Re: (SuperChicken13)*

Assuming you were commenting on my post:
*How is driveability without the ISV?* 
I have to hold the revs on cold starts, but after about 20 secs it idles steady. On the street, the revs sit steady at 950, and I've even adjusted them lower. I like that I have vacuum only from brake booster to manifold, and TB to FPR.
*You're not running an oil cooler at all? How are oil temps?*
I was waiting for the cooler itself, so just bypassed the stock takeoff. I have a Mocal thermo take-off plate ready to go on, and will be mating it with a Gen2 RX7 cooler. The RX7 coolers are huge, and accept 10AN screw fittings...
The temps have topped out at about 220 after a hard drive in hot weather. Typically they float 200-210. A little higher than desirable, but I wanted to drive.
*Debating the 50mm if I were to go to bigger cams like 272's.*
50mm all the way. My setup feels like it has noticeably more torque than some other similarly setup cars I've been in. Butt dyno of course.


----------



## jettalandon (Jun 17, 2004)

i really need some help with my swap...... i am getting absolutely no spark at all. i have replaced everything and i quadruple checked my wiring.
the only thing that i really am not sure about is one wire. 
the bentley manual said that a black and brown wire come from the ignition module on top of the pcm and connect to the positive battery terminal... i have tried this and it turns on all my dashlights, radio, and fuel pump without the key in the ignition. and i still didnt get any spark with that wire on.... i just dont understand that at all. 
i thought it may have been a short in the ecu but i tried a different one and the wires are not shorted to anything....
i am totally clueless and need to get this car running really bad. any help at all would be extremely appreciated.
Thanks
oh yeah... the engine harness was out of the car when i bought it and nothing was marked. just letting you know before someone starts flaming me about that


_Modified by jettalandon at 6:48 PM 10-1-2008_


----------



## diceman469 (Sep 3, 2003)

*Re: (jettalandon)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jettalandon* »_i really need some help with my swap...... i am getting absolutely no spark at all. i have replaced everything and i quadruple checked my wiring.
the only thing that i really am not sure about is one wire. 
the bentley manual said that a black and brown wire come from the ignition module on top of the pcm and connect to the positive battery terminal... i have tried this and it turns on all my dashlights, radio, and fuel pump without the key in the ignition. and i still didnt get any spark with that wire on.... i just dont understand that at all. 
i thought it may have been a short in the ecu but i tried a different one and the wires are not shorted to anything....
_Modified by jettalandon at 6:48 PM 10-1-2008_

If I remember correctly I had the same problem (I had alot of problems lol) It turned out to be two positives hooked up to the coil, and this caused it a backfeed without the key in. Everything would be off until I turned the ignition on the first time, then it'd just stay on, even after removal of the key.
I hate to say it, but check the wiring again


----------



## jettalandon (Jun 17, 2004)

thanks. i will try that but arent there supposed to be 4 wires hooked up to the coil. 2 pos and 2 neg.


----------



## 1bd81roccoS (Apr 7, 2007)

*Re: (jettalandon)*

Need some help. I finished my digi 2 16v swap a while back and still cant get it to run right. Its really slow on the bottom end and really boggy when cold. I have the bmw maf and have spent hours trying to adjust it with minimal results. Any ideas?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (1bd81roccoS)*

get an AF gauge on there. and tell me the results. sounds like your maf is not adjusted to your injectors and vacuum.


----------



## jettason28 (Nov 9, 2007)

I just dyno'd tonite at 124.1 whp @ 5500 rpm and 124.4 ft/lbs @5000 rpm. Not bad for stock internals...
The numbers above were with a MAF that had the spring tension detensioned 3 clicks. A pass with a stock MAF yielded pretty much the exact same numbers, except that the hp peak moved up to 5750 rpm.
Car specs are up a few posts...


----------



## bluebug300 (Jun 30, 2007)

*Re: (jettason28)*

Nice #s bro http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif wonder what #s mine'll do with a header n exh. cam mod?


----------



## jettason28 (Nov 9, 2007)

*Re: (bluebug300)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bluebug300* »_wonder what #s mine'll do with a header n exh. cam mod?

I honestly doubt that the header will make that mush difference over my setup; the TT downpipe and exhaust flow extremely well.
I have a buddy with a CIS 16v with the exhaust cam setup, and it definitely woke the car up. We have never run head to head so I can't guess what extra it'll give you, although any headwork/internals typically give good gains.


----------



## 1bd81roccoS (Apr 7, 2007)

*Re: (jettason28)*

K so the car runs spectacular when its warm. But runs like complete a$$ when its cold. The coolant temp sensor seems to be in spec. Its stock with the exception of a bmw maf. Its also an 88 which is the 1st year digi that didn't use the blue coolant temp sensor yet it uses a white one. But from what I can tell they are the same with the exception the way it mounts. any ideas?


----------



## hadaki (Sep 8, 2004)

My mk1 cabriolet 1988 had been using DIGI ii
for six month.
I have one question for my swap??
Now i'm running this system without a Ecu relay,you guy have any ideal to link back the ecu relay????
Please help??


----------



## 91_ef (Oct 21, 2008)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

My digifant II swap has been a nightmare, i bought the car, had to change the engine harness etc. as of right now my fuel pump relay #80 will sometimes buzz quietly and sometimes the fuel pump will work. the brown/black wire coming from my ecu harness is supposed to be a ground right? well it has 4.2 volts. The car floods out really bad and it hard to start but alot harder to start when the motor is hot. My firing order clockwise is 1243? is it not supposed to be 1342, if i put it 1342 it runs on 2 cylinders, i checked my compression 180 across all 4. when the car is running, it idles around 1000-2000 and sometimes fluctuates. I have no vaccum leaks. and now i have no dash lights.When I start the car up the oil light/buzzer comes on and stays on for about 5 minute. Ive checked the back of my fuel box for broken wires, i dont know if I have all the relays im supposed to does anyone have a picture of what mine should look like with a 16v digiII in a 92 golf gti origionally 8v. 


_Modified by 91_ef at 6:32 AM 10-22-2008_


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

its 1342


----------



## bluebug300 (Jun 30, 2007)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

Hey guys, Does anyone have a pinout for the 5-wires that power the ECU? i've hooked up all the sensors but i need to get power to the ECU....The Haynes manual didn't do much help at all


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (bluebug300)*

really... start a BBQ with that Haynes, and go buy a Bentley off e-Bay!
i'll look for the pinout this weekend if nobody replies


----------



## 91_ef (Oct 21, 2008)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

can Anyone get me the voltage readings for the fuel pump relay connections in the fuse block when the key is on and off. 1 of my ecus cause my fuel pump to run constantly and the other 3 the fuel pump relay just buzzes but if i take my positive battery terminal off and tap the post with it a few times the fuel pump will come on and the buzzing will go away the car will run. but as soon as i turn my key off it will buzz the next time i turn it back on. ive also bypassed the fuel pump relay and the pump runs constantly and i've tried 2 of my ecus that cause my relay to buzz in a buddys 16v digi 2 and they run his pump constantly. whats wrong with my car?







i have had this problem for months and ive even changed the engine harness


----------



## runvsofme07 (Aug 26, 2004)

*Re: (91_ef)*

Great faq i did this in my jetta and it ran well for a while... but after a trip to wf14 now my car hesitates and jumps around the rpm untill around 3.5-4k then it pulls hard.. whats going on? i think MS is the solution to my problem...


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (runvsofme07)*

i think your digifant is fine. its a 16v issue. tune-up time. ive never had a timing jump.


----------



## runvsofme07 (Aug 26, 2004)

*Re: (rychas1)*

yea well im hoping everything i fine internally.. i ran it with the cyl 3 injector disconnect for like 1500 miles







without knowing it.. i am gonna check compression.. but digi 2 doesnt work well with 2l 16vs imo... my distributor is rotated counter clock wise as far as it will go just so it will run... 


_Modified by runvsofme07 at 2:59 PM 11-8-2008_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (runvsofme07)*

i had plently of adjustment in my distributor. something ur not doing right. i ran this setup for almost 5 years...HARD, daily. 0 issues. its your setup. somethings wrong.


----------



## mk1tuga (Nov 11, 2008)

who use digi 1 in a 16v ?


----------



## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

*Re: (mk1tuga)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk1tuga* »_who use digi 1 in a 16v ?
a few people: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1305329


----------



## hadaki (Sep 8, 2004)

Can digi II chips?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (hadaki)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hadaki* »_Can digi II chips?



__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


----------



## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

*Re: (rychas1)*

Yes there ar a couple of chips available for Digi2. I believe Techtonics still makes one, there is a Digifast chip, and a couple other companies. It's been a while since I looked but they are still around.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (MBRACKLIFFE)*

o thats what was being asked.







yea...the above mentioned chips. my old 16v 3spd had a rare SNS digi2 chip.


----------



## hadaki (Sep 8, 2004)

*Re: (rychas1)*

Hi ,
What injector and AFM should i use on my DIGI II 16v?
Any different A4 1.8 injector and Mk2 8v digi iII njector? 
Any commend on BMW 3.5 AFM?










_Modified by hadaki at 4:42 AM 12-21-2008_


----------



## azzkikr (Feb 28, 2005)

*Re: (hadaki)*

bro why do you even consider swapping injectors & afm?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (hadaki)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hadaki* »_Hi ,
What injector and AFM should i use on my DIGI II 16v?
Any different A4 1.8 injector and Mk2 8v digi iII njector? 
Any commend on BMW 3.5 AFM?









_Modified by hadaki at 4:42 AM 12-21-2008_

you can use corrado g60 injectors and the bmw afm (dialed down) for added kick in power. should come after cams and breathing mods. the stock digi2 injectors @ 3.5 bar does very well. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif i would chip and go 3.5 bar before injector and afm swap. one step a a time with digi2 16v, that way you can diagnose easily if it doesnt work well after tuning.


----------



## Xatharis (Nov 12, 2006)

Howdy Peeps, might be barkin up the wrong tree here, but here goes.
I have a 1.8L 8v (yeah I know this is 16v territory) and a digifast chip that came with a transaction of cars and parts. I'm told that I can just swap it out for my original ECU no problems. Does that sound, to all your combined knowledge, feasable?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (Xatharis)*

yes. do it!


----------



## Xatharis (Nov 12, 2006)

eeeeexcellent !
....now.....where do I find the original chip?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (Xatharis)*

in the ecu








i kidding...i can dig up pics, but basically..
1. get the ecu from under the rain tray.
2. wash hands and open ecu cover.
3. look for rectangular chip with a code and white label on it (there are 2 chips, only 1 has this code and label).
4. gently pry up chip with finger evenly.
5. replace with new chip, with notch going same direction as old one (pay attention here).
6. close everything up. ground yourself to some metal, like a sink.
7. reinstall. give a few cold starts/days to feel the adjustments. throw in some 93 octane and let her rip!!!!
if this doesnt make sense, do a little more research for the pics, but it really is this easy. if it seems too hard, let someone else with experience do it. last thing u wanna do is screw up the ecu. good luck


----------



## Xatharis (Nov 12, 2006)

thanks Ry


----------



## hadaki (Sep 8, 2004)

You can refer to this.


















_Modified by hadaki at 5:26 PM 2-16-2009_


----------



## gregvh (Jun 28, 2007)

*Re: (hadaki)*

When doing a mk2 1.8 16v swap into a mk3 1.8 cl (canadian edition) would the engine mounts be in the correct location? I have heard the front mount and tranny mount are correct but the third mount the far back passanger side one is off. yay or nay?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (gregvh)*

they are the same. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## gregvh (Jun 28, 2007)

*Re: (rychas1)*

thank you http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 1vwpunk (Feb 18, 2007)

*Re: (gregvh)*

i have seen some one with the same problem with there diggi set up but cant seem to find it in the last pages..
hear it goes so im driving the digi set up down the rd and all of a suden the car dies .. even if im doing 80 the car just dies with the clutch out like no spark... i push the clutch in turn key off and it starts right back up and i keep on truckin away..any one have any sugestions? thanks


----------



## 89JettaCoupe (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (1vwpunk)*

I've been running this swap for a while, 1.8L 16V, totally stock motor with the exception of the BMW AFM. The power is awesome, car is a blast to autocross, however, everyday driveability sucks. The car gets a hunting idle all of the time. It will sit there and rev up to 3000 rpm, then back down, then back up, then back down. It does this randomly, not all the time. Tried replacing the ISV, and cleaning them, doesn't seem to correct the issue. The idle overall seems low, but I can't get it to stay at a nice stable engine speed. Car likes to bog down a lot off the line, dies sometimes when you get off the gas and the revs drop. Like it's just not "catching" the idle. Also I get a lot of oil loss through the front breather which is just going to a catch can. Saw a few pages back the new beetle oil cap breather setup. Any more info on that? Can somebody post some photos of their setup using that?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (89JettaCoupe)*

get your idle str8 first using a stock AFM, and then deal with the breather issue.


----------



## boost is better (May 26, 2007)

does anyone else have problems with there digifast chip? if i run my passat 9a with digi2 on the digifast chip it has a surge and it idles poorly but if i plug my spare stock computer back in then it runs perfect. i also notice no differance in power between the two.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (boost is better)*

its not the chip. make sure the chip is in the right direction. ive had good success with the chip, and even better success with the SNS chip. u can always email pete and request a new chip 'just in case'.


----------



## 89JettaCoupe (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (rychas1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rychas1* »_get your idle str8 first using a stock AFM, and then deal with the breather issue.

I've tried the stock AFM also, i swapped them out trying to diagnose the problem. Didn't help, in fact the car runs better with the BMW unit.


----------



## eurotrash07 (May 29, 2007)

*Re: (89JettaCoupe)*


_Quote, originally posted by *89JettaCoupe* »_Also I get a lot of oil loss through the front breather which is just going to a catch can. 

Well that is not a good sign. That would indicate blow-by How Healthy is your 16v. Get a vacuum gauge and read vacuum off idle. Let us know what it reads. Also I learned that digi II like to be sealed with no vent to atmosphere. How is your ISV run? Try to Recirc your breather back into the intake track after the AFM see if any change, If not A/F adjustments, Timing, Idle screw adjustment. ECM grounds, and basic vacuum leaks can all contribute to the problem. 


_Modified by eurotrash07 at 3:45 PM 2-22-2009_


----------



## RoadRoque09 (Nov 30, 2008)

*Re: (eurotrash07)*

help!!!!
so i just got done doing a digi 2 16v swap in my 91 gti. however when i went to start it for the first time all it did was click at the starter and i herd the fuel pump start to run. and this happens every time i hit the key to start it. does anyone have any idea what is going on?


----------



## eurotrash07 (May 29, 2007)

*Re: (RoadRoque09)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RoadRoque09* »_help!!!!
so i just got done doing a digi 2 16v swap in my 91 gti. however when i went to start it for the first time all it did was click at the starter and i herd the fuel pump start to run. and this happens every time i hit the key to start it. does anyone have any idea what is going on?

Check your starter connection and battery, Ground cables. and so on. Could be a bum starter, do the old tap trick, Does the engine turn over at all?


----------



## RoadRoque09 (Nov 30, 2008)

*Re: (eurotrash07)*


_Quote, originally posted by *eurotrash07* »_
Does the engine turn over at all?

no it doesn't all it does is click once... i checked all the wires and grounds so i guess my next step is to take off the starter


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (RoadRoque09)*

could also be ignition switch. what were symptoms before the swap. sometimes that lends a clue.


----------



## eurotrash07 (May 29, 2007)

*Re: (rychas1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rychas1* »_could also be ignition switch. what were symptoms before the swap. sometimes that lends a clue.

Use a remote starter switch at the terminal on the starter to rule the Ignition switch out
Must be all that wonderful 16v compression that killed the starter


----------



## RoadRoque09 (Nov 30, 2008)

*Re: (rychas1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rychas1* »_ what were symptoms before the swap.

the car ran fine and it started just as good... the reason why i did the swap was i blew the dead gasket in my 8v and i also warped the head so the whole engine was shot... when i did the swap i kept the 8v transmission and started then plus all the 8v required parts.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (RoadRoque09)*

well, as already stated, 3ple check grounds. thats usually the first suspect during a swap. tranny ground, valve cover, all of them! make sure your ecu wasnt fried in the process. no click at all sounds ground related.


----------



## boopizi (Dec 1, 2008)

has anyone turbo charged there 16v digi?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (boopizi)*

one guy did a while back that i know of. but plenty of dig2 8vs. not that much difference in difficulty.


----------



## E. Castro (Jul 7, 2008)

*Re: (rychas1)*

how long on average would this swap take?


----------



## RoadRoque09 (Nov 30, 2008)

*Re: (E. Castro)*

it depends if you have everything needed on hand and ready to go. it took me one week because i repainted the engine and replaced all the gaskets. anther reason why it took longer was was waiting for my bbm parts to come


_Modified by RoadRoque09 at 4:18 PM 3-14-2009_


----------



## boopizi (Dec 1, 2008)

*Re: (rychas1)*

hmmm.... im not real worried about the difficulty of the installation of the turbo, but i still have yet to swap in my 1.8 16v and do the digi conversation. i figured since its out and getting rebuilt, it would be a good time to put one on. im just worried that trouble shooting will be to difficult on account of too manny variables. i like the idea of a 16v digi2 bbut most the mrk2 turbos i'v seen are running stand alone ecu.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (boopizi)*

just because u dont see a lot does not mean it cant be done without a lot of issue. but, take 1 step at a time. ge the car running good first, then worry about boost. that way, u eliminate about 95% of those variables.


----------



## chemicalbro13 (Nov 21, 2007)

*Re: (rychas1)*

ok so i did this swap 2 weeks ago with a 1.8 16v out of a scirocco into my 88 gti, well i got it all in a couple days ago and i went to start it and nothing, all it would do is turn over...so i checked to make sure i was geting air fuel and spark which i was...then i checked all my grounds and still nothing...it turns over and i can pull the plugs and they are wet but it doesnt ever fire, i have tried adjusting the timing on the distributor and still nothing, i also tried using a differnt distributor and it still didnt start....i really cant think of what else it could be...any suggestions?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (chemicalbro13)*

ign switch? if u have spark and fuel, and grounds are good. can u roll-start it?


----------



## chemicalbro13 (Nov 21, 2007)

*Re: (rychas1)*

i didnt even think to role start it, it turns over which makes me think its a ground issue


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (chemicalbro13)*

does it start when rolled?


----------



## chemicalbro13 (Nov 21, 2007)

*Re: (rychas1)*

i didnt try that but why would it start when rolled and not by the starter?


----------



## boopizi (Dec 1, 2008)

*Re: (rychas1)*

suppose you right... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (chemicalbro13)*


_Quote, originally posted by *chemicalbro13* »_i didnt try that but why would it start when rolled and not by the starter?

it would easily rule out the ignition switch. if it starts, there ya go! ign switch. if not, then starter, grounds, or timing. make sure distro is not 180* out. wires are in order. injectors are in/plugged. comperssion is good. thats all the non-fuel/spark i can think of. try it. report back. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## chemicalbro13 (Nov 21, 2007)

*Re: (rychas1)*

ok ill try it but if the ignition switch was bad wouldnt it just not turn over when i turned the key? and the grounds are good the timing is right the starter is good injectors are in and pluged....how do i know if my distibutor is 180* out? and i havnt checked compresion but it was running when pulled from the scirocco


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (chemicalbro13)*

take out the distro and turn it 180* and reinstall. if it starts, there u go. if not, then reverse it back and try the other steps. it sounds like a simple missing step. dont give up!


----------



## chemicalbro13 (Nov 21, 2007)

*Re: (rychas1)*

found the problem...****ing bent valves







....no big deal i have anouther head


_Modified by chemicalbro13 at 4:22 PM 3-21-2009_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (chemicalbro13)*

compression http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif i did say that.


----------



## chemicalbro13 (Nov 21, 2007)

*Re: (rychas1)*

haha thanks alot for the help man


----------



## chemicalbro13 (Nov 21, 2007)

*Re: (chemicalbro13)*

so i got everything togeather today and i am finnaly going to start it yeah.....wish me luck


----------



## chemicalbro13 (Nov 21, 2007)

*Re: (chemicalbro13)*

she runs


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (chemicalbro13)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## chemicalbro13 (Nov 21, 2007)

*Re: (rychas1)*

the only bad thing is if i run her when she hasnt warmed up it bogs like crazy but once she is up to temp she runs like a gazzel


----------



## N75 (Nov 13, 2006)

*Re: (chemicalbro13)*

I've dug through a bunch of this thread, haven't found what I'm looking for yet.
Does anyone have a MK1 Digi-2 16v picture? I'm looking for ideas on how to hook up the ISV/Vac Lines/Intake. I'm sure I'll work it all out, but I'd like to see some other setups.
For reference, here's what I'm working on - an automatic 16v Cabriolet!!








http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4339033
It's a bit further along, actually test started it. I'm sure I had a big vac leak somewhere, took a ton of throttle to get fired up.


----------



## OLAK (Jul 12, 2004)

*Re: (N75)*

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...ge=23
the isv is in there somewhere


----------



## N75 (Nov 13, 2006)

Ok thanks - I see what you did there. I'm keeping the battery up front, and would like to keep the airbox as well for a quiet install. Have some fitment issues with the intake hose lol.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (N75)*

yay. another 3spd 16v in the records


----------



## sacmame (Mar 29, 2006)

Got my 16v running on digi II in my 1990 cabby done this weekend. 
I ended up using the CIS-E CTS and it works fine, also made it easier since I didn't have to worry about using a different coolant flange to fit the digi style CTS. I'm running the stock 8v FPR for now. I'll probably upgrade to an adjustable at some point. 
Thanks to everyone who has posted all the useful info on this FAQ! Helped me a lot!


_Modified by sacmame at 8:35 AM 5-5-2009_


----------



## 2deep (Oct 10, 2006)

*Re: (sacmame)*

ok just needing a little help from you guys. i have an '88 gli 16v with ce1 from germany. i have already installed the harness and everything to the fuel rail and all i have a problem with is the wiring. installed the digi2 from a '92 Gti mexican engine harness. What wires need to be connected?
digi2 harness to the ce1
r/w....................r/w
r/y....................r/y 
r/g....................r/bk
bk/y..................bk 
r/bk..................bk
w/r....................open
it doesnt want to start







which is because the fuel pumps wont run so i just gounded the r/y wire from ce1 and the pumps turn on. i just cant quite figure it all out because ive tried search and all i keep getting is "just get megasquirt" or try search and i have been searching for a good month, but up above is the wires i have to connect to each other if anyone can help out i would really appreciate it. thanks

_Modified by 2deep at 11:22 PM 5-7-2009_


_Modified by 2deep at 11:23 PM 5-7-2009_


----------



## boopizi (Dec 1, 2008)

*Re:*

has anyone dealt with horrible misfire on acceleration? i have good fuel, checked compression, new plugs, wires, distributor, ext. when checked with timing light at idle 6˚ BTDC is right on. but any throttle at all kicks ahead about 45˚ and runs horrible. is there a way to reset timing on digi 2? i read a thread earlier about revving to 3g three times and disconnecting the CTS and so forth. my two attempts to do so failed, leading me to believe this was not my problem? however, the timing seems to be the only thing that doesn't add up. any thoughts?


----------



## Das Kraut (Nov 7, 2008)

*Re: (boopizi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *boopizi* »_................. i like the idea of a 16v digi2 but most the mrk2 turbos i'v seen are running stand alone ecu. 

or Digi 1 which I am contemplating. Sorry Digifant II.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: Re: (boopizi)*

yes. timing has to be set @ 2500.


----------



## 1990Cabriolet (Jun 3, 2009)

*Re: (mechanixfetch)*

i have 1 1990 cabriolet digifont 1.8, 4 cyl single over head 5 spd
im getting no power to the fuel injector rail, thus it cranks but dosn't turn over unless you spray gas in the intank and it'll run til the prime is gone
we checked the computer relays.. seem to be, 

any ideas? all is welcome! short in the wire? the computer? other? 
anybody have the same car or simular problem??
this is our only car currently so it's a big problem as far as work and school!
it's currently at 13 1/2 and coolidge at a friends home..
thanks VW fam/guys! Mike


----------



## 1990Cabriolet (Jun 3, 2009)

*Re: (mechanixfetch)*

i have 1 1990 cabriolet 
digifont (I or II I'm not sure)
1.8, 4 cyl single over head 5 spd
im getting no power to the fuel injector rail, thus it cranks but dosn't turn over unless you spray gas in the intank and it'll run til the prime is gone
we checked the computer relays.. seem to be, 

any ideas? all is welcome! short in the wire? the computer? other? 
anybody have the same car or simular problem??
this is our only car currently so it's a big problem as far as work and school!
it's currently at 13 1/2 and coolidge at a friends home..
thanks VW fam/guys! Mike


----------



## dedhkrz (Feb 12, 2007)

*Re: (1990Cabriolet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1990Cabriolet* »_i have 1 1990 cabriolet 
digifont (I or II I'm not sure)
1.8, 4 cyl single over head 5 spd
im getting no power to the fuel injector rail, thus it cranks but dosn't turn over unless you spray gas in the intank and it'll run til the prime is gone
we checked the computer relays.. seem to be, 

any ideas? all is welcome! short in the wire? the computer? other? 
anybody have the same car or simular problem??
this is our only car currently so it's a big problem as far as work and school!
it's currently at 13 1/2 and coolidge at a friends home..
thanks VW fam/guys! Mike

Wrong forum.








Maybe this will work a little better








http://forums.vwvortex.com/zeroforum?id=152


----------



## Mk2 SAiNT (Jul 10, 2007)

Is there a way to bypass the MAF and run ITBs?








I finally got around to thrumbing through this thread but not all the pages. So forgive me if someone has already answered and replied.


----------



## Nart (Mar 18, 2009)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (cdn20VALVE)*

plz some one help me
i have a 1.8 16v engine with digi2 system
i have some problems :
1: when the car runing For long time and rough drivin at high speeds
when i turn oFF the car and i wanna start it again .... its start so deFecult unless i wait the car to cold then it will start normaly .
2: i cant do the timing thing For the engine right ... i keep hear the valves singing at rought drivin
i cheked all the wires and i made it as u said letraly


----------



## ohfllifer (Feb 10, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Nart)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Nart* »_plz some one help me
1: when the car runing For long time and rough drivin at high speeds
when i turn oFF the car and i wanna start it again .... its start so deFecult unless i wait the car to cold then it will start normaly .




I had this problem. I put in a ford starter silenoid as a starter relay and it has worked so for. Its a starter heat soak problem.


----------



## jettason28 (Nov 9, 2007)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Nart)*

x2 on the heatsoak. Check out this thread:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2593146


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (jettason28)*

wiring....
hope you can follow me in this post:
http://www.ohiovw.com/forum/de...26090


----------



## Nart (Mar 18, 2009)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (jettason28)*

jettason28 thx dude great work 

but my starter problem not like that:
Symptom: You turn the key and nothing happens. Nothing. Not even a click. The voltmeter does however show you sucking major current.
when my car is hot and i wanna start the car .... u can hear the starter
workin but so weak it cant start the engine and aFter 10 seconds oF weak workin the engine run!


----------



## ohfllifer (Feb 10, 2005)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Nart)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Nart* »_
when my car is hot and i wanna start the car .... u can hear the starter
workin but so weak it cant start the engine and aFter 10 seconds oF weak workin the engine run!

It could still be a heat soak problem. Mine did both, some times it would not do a thing and other times it would crank really really slow and strained. Or maybe your starter is just getting old.


----------



## Nart (Mar 18, 2009)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (ohfllifer)*

ya i think u r right i will use the starter silenoid as a starter relay
and i will see what will happen .... or i will change the starter 

thx everybody


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Nart)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Nart* »_ya i think u r right i will use the starter silenoid as a starter relay
and i will see what will happen .... or i will change the starter 

thx everybody









i've never had to use a relay... just replaced the thin wiring with heavier stuff.....
run 3 GLI's like that - no more problems!


----------



## Nart (Mar 18, 2009)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (OhioBenz)*

Guys Plz Tell me whats wrong with my engine !!!
i cant control the idle and the revs oF the engine 
i have 1.8 16v kr with digifant2 system but without a knock sensor !!
is that wrong! or what !
i did a long search and i cant Find anything! and i cant control that engine!


----------



## beggo (Oct 31, 2006)

well i was wonderin if any one has done a real motronic to digifant 2 conversion. like a car that is motronic converted digifant? because most of there cars are already digifant


----------



## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Capt.Dreadz)*

Wow...I haven't been in this thread in a long time. I've long since upgraded.









_Quote, originally posted by *Capt.Dreadz* »_


----------



## cabrio2.0 (Aug 11, 2009)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

i know this is an old post but i hope u r still active on this subject, or if any one can help. doing 2.0 16v into a 85 cabriolet mk1, i have a digi2 ecu and harness, was also sent a knock sensor with the harness, there isn't a conection for the socket. does the knksnsr conect right to the harness or is there some place else that i should be looking to conect it to?


----------



## erich83 (Aug 14, 2009)

HEllo!
Who has finaly managed to adapt a electronic injection on a KR engine?
What are the minimum parts requested?
How much did you pay in parts to make this modification?


----------



## MKIIJERKSTORE (Jul 19, 2009)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MBRACKLIFFE)*

First Major Kudos to you on the car and swap!!!
I have a 1991 GTI 8V and want to do a 16v swap.
I am wondering if you were runnning a 8V digi2 computer like i already have or did you pull the digi 2 out of the 16v passat and what year passat was it from...


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MKIIJERKSTORE)*

the digi2 is the same across the board. passat had 16v motronic, not digifant. all 16vs were motronic cis-e. all 8v were either digifant or cis/cis-e. so basically, its taking out your physical 8v motor (leaving all wiring there) and bolting in the 16v, plugging up the 8v wiring. the total tweaks are minor in the scheme of things. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## MKIIJERKSTORE (Jul 19, 2009)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

wow!!! that easy huh!!! Damn game on for me!!! i think i saw a 16v at the local junk yard score!!!!


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (MKIIJERKSTORE)*

that easy http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## boopizi (Dec 1, 2008)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

How would you guys say your 16v over all preforms on the digiII system oppose to CIS or Motronic? Just curious if you should go head to head.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (boopizi)*

the guys who did the swap the right way dont have issues. mine was pretty much flawless. i have some issues, but they were 16v issues, not management issues. jsut the usual wear/tear that wouldve happened anyway. once its dialed in, it makes good power, just like factory. i thnk people were under the impression that a digi2 swap would make the car faster/more power than cis. that was never the goal. digifant is, however, much more reliable and easy to diagnose/fix than cis. for me, the only reason a 16v went in was that my 8v crapped out. easy choice. now, swapping a perfectly good runnng cis for digifant is just silly, unless u just reeeeeeeeeeally want digifant. and ill say this...i didnt have any trouble pulling a cis 16v 5speed in my digifant2 16v automatic 3speed past 130mph. that is not a typo. it really was a good setup. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## cabrio2.0 (Aug 11, 2009)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (Capt.Dreadz)*

do you have any other pics of motor, basicaly different angles?


----------



## boopizi (Dec 1, 2008)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rychas1* »_the guys who did the swap the right way dont have issues. mine was pretty much flawless. i have some issues, but they were 16v issues, not management issues. jsut the usual wear/tear that wouldve happened anyway. once its dialed in, it makes good power, just like factory. i thnk people were under the impression that a digi2 swap would make the car faster/more power than cis. that was never the goal. digifant is, however, much more reliable and easy to diagnose/fix than cis. for me, the only reason a 16v went in was that my 8v crapped out. easy choice. now, swapping a perfectly good runnng cis for digifant is just silly, unless u just reeeeeeeeeeally want digifant. and ill say this...i didnt have any trouble pulling a cis 16v 5speed in my digifant2 16v automatic 3speed past 130mph. that is not a typo. it really was a good setup. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Vary interesting. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## chemicalbro13 (Nov 21, 2007)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (boopizi)*

i have been runing the digi2 16v for a while now and i am still having some minor problems with not getting enough air...so i got a bmw maf and tried to hook that up but i could get it to idle great when adjusting the spring but then it wouldnt run worth **** but i could get it to run good but not idle at all.....and when i use the vw maf it bogs off the start in first but once im above 2k rpms it takes off....any info on the bmw maf or maybe thats not my problem...any help?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (chemicalbro13)*

the bmw maf is not your issue. it should run on the regular vw vam as is. i did 0 mods to mine, and it ran fine. check vacuum and plug/grounds.


----------



## gerk123 (Feb 20, 2008)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (rychas1)*

Hey guys, I have a 1991 Jetta coupe with a 1.8 16v swapped into it (digi 2) my car seems to be burning alot of gas and when i say alot i mean alot..(95L of gas and got 360 kms) anyways it seems to run alright when I start it up in the morning until i start driving it. On occasion the rpm's will get stuck at 3000 and when i tap the gas it makes some kind of sucking noise then it climbs down...the idol is also very weird i've adjusted the idol screw several times now and it keeps going back to 1500rpms to 2000rpms. BTW the car has no cat and I think i O2 sensor is gone..any input is appreciated.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: ==+ 16v Digfant II FAQ +== (gerk123)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gerk123* »_Hey guys, I have a 1991 Jetta coupe with a 1.8 16v swapped into it (digi 2) my car seems to be *burning alot of gas* and when i say alot i mean alot..(95L of gas and got 360 kms) anyways it seems to run alright when I start it up in the morning until i start driving it. On occasion the rpm's will get stuck at 3000 and when i tap the gas it makes some kind of sucking noise then it climbs down...the *idol* is also very weird i've adjusted the idol screw several times now and it *keeps going back to 1500rpms to 2000rpms*. *BTW the car has no cat and I think i O2 sensor is gone*..any input is appreciated.









the answer is there. your car is stuck in rich mode. change the cts, get a cat and o2, clear the codes, and see waht happens next.. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Sallad (Aug 29, 2004)

*Re: (beggo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beggo* »_well i was wonderin if any one has done a real motronic to digifant 2 conversion. like a car that is motronic converted digifant? because most of there cars are already digifant

I'm in the middle of doing that right now. 
My car is a MK3 Jetta that came with a 1.8 Mono-Motronic, then I swapped in a 9A from a Passatt. (CIS Motronic) now I'm swapping in a DIGI 2 setup, just need the fuel reg installed and I'm ready to fire it up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (beggo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beggo* »_well i was wonderin if any one has done a real motronic to digifant 2 conversion. like a car that is motronic converted digifant? because most of there cars are already digifant

i have seen a few, yes. motronic pulled out, digifant 2 put in.


----------



## gerk123 (Feb 20, 2008)

*Re: (rychas1)*

Ive had enough with digi 2, im going digi 1 with a turbonator


----------



## amstad (Mar 18, 2008)

*Re: (rychas1)*

rychas1
We are mid way thorugh swaping out 8v auto to 2.0 16v 5spd. 
Couple questions;
1) What is best 8v throttle body to use for simple plug and play? Our 8v auto throttle body is quite different for throttle cable connection compared to 16v. We definitely want to be able to just plug in the throttle switch and cable.
2) Any input to cold start injector hook up using digi 2 vs. old 16v set up?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (amstad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *amstad* »_rychas1
We are mid way thorugh swaping out 8v auto to 2.0 16v 5spd. 
Couple questions;
1) What is best 8v throttle body to use for simple plug and play? Our 8v auto throttle body is quite different for throttle cable connection compared to 16v. We definitely want to be able to just plug in the throttle switch and cable.
2) Any input to cold start injector hook up using digi 2 vs. old 16v set up?

1. the original 8v throttle is just fine. well, that is what i used, but then again i kept my auto tranny with the 16v. in you case, use the 16v throttle, with 8v switches.
2. just plug it with a blockoff plate. thats what i did.
good luck! the original posting covers these questions as well.


----------



## mikinoz (Jun 20, 2005)

Howdy form Down Under.
I have just bought a converted MK1 to 1.8 16V DIGI 2. I have some of the regular issues such as the car hunting but have a couple that I am stumped on.
First is the vac lines - I have the vac line from my adjustable FPR to the vac spike on the RHS of the throttle assembly. There is no vacuum hose on the LHS spike on the throttle assembly.
Is this the correct placement for the vac line off the FPR and where is the line meant to go from the LHS spike? Is it to the backside of the throttle?
The other question is that I am unable to adjust down the idle below 1100 RPM. The idle screw wound all the way in and that is the end of the adjustment. I have read people suggest replacing the idle screw seal (not done yet) but are there any other things to look out for. (running 3.5 BAR fuel pressure)
I will try disconnecting the ISV tomorrow and see the results, and possibly track a blue sensor (not much chance now it is Christmas eve).
Props to you all for a mad thread! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (mikinoz)*

hi there.
i would like pics of the said lhs throttle body. either should have the provisions for a vacuum line. lhs or rhs.
for the idle screw, yes, you need the o-ring for it. it just wont work otherwise. both the cts and isv can also cause high idle, but start with the o-ring, then the other 2. youre on the way


----------



## mikinoz (Jun 20, 2005)

Thanks for the reply. I hunted the net and found this description of the vac lines. I probably should have mentioned that I run a pod too.
I have followed this image and blocked the vac lines marked in red and the blue line comes from the FPR. Suggestions on if this was the correct course of action appreciated.


----------



## mikinoz (Jun 20, 2005)

Who can help with a fuel pressure question, is 3 BAR enough? I am looking to replace the adjustable one I have with a BOSCH 3 BAR unit and was hoping to find out if that will work with 16V digi - if not, what are you guys and gals running as FPR pressure, and where do you get the regs from?
Cheers.


----------



## R_Pogo (Sep 4, 2005)

*Re: (mikinoz)*

From another thread:
I'm doing the Digifant 16V conversion and have been cleaning and 
testing everything before assembly and finally got to the air flow meter 
box.
The meter has an internal spring loaded flapper which moves with air 
flow. This in turn moves a shaft that rotates an electrical wiper on a 
conductive track which produces a variable voltage output. The 
conductive track is connected to a bunch of resistors to get the 
appropriate output signal that the ECU can understand. 
First I noticed the flapper movement was not smooth. Some WD40 at
the pivot points solved the problem. This by itself might clear up some
lag and stability problems. 
For testing I applied 5 volts and pushed the flapper back with the eraser 
end of a pencil and watched the voltage output on a meter. 
Then for the first 1/4 of movement the signal just seemed to wander -- 
there wasn't much correlation between flapper position and output. With 
a digital meter it is hard to observe so I switched to an analog meter 
(yes I'm an old timer). It clearly indicated that the signal was all over 
the place in the first 1/4 movement off idle. 
After removing the top cover (sharp knife to cut though the sealer) I 
used some Caig's Deoxit (alcohol will do) to clean the conductive track. 
Big improvement. On closer inspection it looks like the wiper wears 
grooves in the track and this plus dirt and dust, (its vented) might affect
the output. I tested three different used meter boxes, using the resistor 
taps as reference markers and got quite different voltage values in the 
first 1/4 turn of the wiper, For the remaining 3/4 they were very close. 
Thiis 1/4 area is where the wiper spends most of its time, including 
periods at idle, and is the most prone to wear. 
There is a round press-in cover that conceals a hex screw which is used 
to bypass air around the flapper to adjust CO emissions at idle. The 
air box idle signal might therefore be important to the ECU. If the air
flow signal is flaky it just might cause the ECU to track it via the mixture 
and idle stabilization valve in response. My guess is that this interaction 
might cause the idle (and low speed operation) to become unstable.
Cleaning the air box track might be a good option if all other fixes to 
bad idle and low speed operation fail. If the output signal test does not 
straighten out after cleaning then a new / newer box might be worth a try.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (mikinoz)*

i ran 3.5 bar fpr. it worked perfectly.


----------



## fox-16v (Jun 30, 2009)

*Re: (rychas1)*

http://techtonicstuninginc.com...=1069
TT raised the rev limit for digi 2 16v's...


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (fox-16v)*

wow, that is a new product for sure. guess they caught on to the popularity







my old SNS chip was set @ 6800.


----------



## N75 (Nov 13, 2006)

I'm still poking at my automatic 16v cabby, it's very nearly done but I just didn't touch it for about 6 months. New self-deadline is April 1.
rychas1, what exhaust did you use? I have a TT downpipe made for mk1 16v using the mk2 manifold. I just need to find a cat that will bolt between it, and slip onto the stock late cabby exhaust.
I also just did a heater core, and have been doing alot of other work to the car. Engine is 95% done. Keeping A/C is making it hard to fit some of the PS stuff


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (N75)*

i had pacesetter headers (4-1) and custom magnaflow cat+back/muffler, all 2.25


----------



## Cptn Vortex (Nov 25, 2008)

I would just like to point out that using a 16V ISV works, but it doesnt work well at all. The best I can get it running has the revs jumping from 900rpm to 1500rpm, repeating pretty much every second. 
I did have a question though, as mine is wired with the 16V ISV plug, which does not fit into the 8V ISV. Can I just cut the 16v connector and solder on a connector that will fit the 8V ISV?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (Cptn Vortex)*

yes.


----------



## Cptn Vortex (Nov 25, 2008)

*Re: (rychas1)*

Nice. Thanks haha


----------



## reflex16vgti (Mar 1, 2010)

question: i have a 16v gti from 1987, with the cis-e system on it. i also have a 92 gti 8v with digi2 for parts. will the efi swap work with my car the same way? i ask becuse i dont want to think about doing this, swap it all and not be able to do it for some reason. any input would be wicked. thanks!


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (reflex16vgti)*

ce-1 conversions are a tad more involved, but have been done many time before. read thru the thread.

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


----------



## Romka (Mar 6, 2010)

Hey MBRACKLIFFE!
What car did you take the Digifant system from? what engine?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (Romka)*

not sure if he stil hangs around, but i know he yanked the 16v from a passat and his gti was already digi2 8v.


----------



## Dubs16vrocco (Jul 6, 2008)

im doing a 2.0 16v swap in my 87 scirocco. im also doing the digi 2 swap, it was cis-e. i wanted to know how to wire up the main power to the digi ecu theres a 5 wire plug and a single green wire plug.. please help thanks


----------



## nukewolf (Jun 8, 2004)

Got a 9a in a 88 Golf gl Digi2 has major hesitation just off idle but only on rapid throttle openings. if i slowly open the throttle it will run up nice and good.


----------



## volks25 (Dec 14, 2001)

What would cause the engine to fire when the key is set to "on" ? (not in start) 

Just swapped in digifant II running on a 16v in a rabbit (I know)... 

Got the engine to run (runs well).


----------



## werkhaus (Jun 27, 2006)

This is the same problem I am having with mine. I am using an early cis-e throttle body instead of the digi II throttle body. I modified it so that it triggers the idle stabilizer correctly. I also changed the throttle plate out with the restrictor on it. I wonder if I should have just used the digi II throttle. What are you using as a throttle?

Otherwise the car runs strong!


----------



## hotfireGTI (Dec 21, 2007)

Im using a fuel regulator off a aba 8v. does that matter? or i get a different fuel regulator?


----------



## nukewolf (Jun 8, 2004)

werkhaus said:


> This is the same problem I am having with mine. I am using an early cis-e throttle body instead of the digi II throttle body. I modified it so that it triggers the idle stabilizer correctly. I also changed the throttle plate out with the restrictor on it. I wonder if I should have just used the digi II throttle. What are you using as a throttle?
> 
> Otherwise the car runs strong!


I too am running the cis-e throttle body but i think its something to do with my cts. If I unplug it once it warms up the hesitation goes away


----------



## werkhaus (Jun 27, 2006)

*digi II 16v hesitation*

Well, still hesitation....much worse when cold...better when warmer...but I am beginning to suspect that it might be fuel related.

People talk about running a 3.5 bar regulator. Would this be of help? I did adjust the tension on the afm flap...3 clicks. Didn't seem to change anything.

My af ratio gauge says that while I am running the car on the open road that the fuel ratio is okay.

I do know that it falls away to nothing especially when cold and accelerating

Because I am running the ISV into the intake tube between the airbox and the throttle body instead of into the throttle housing...would this make a difference?

The car idles great.

Any thoughts on where to poke around next would be helpful.

Another mechanic friend of mine who races thinks I have a fuel problem. His view is that because the car when cold really bogs on a harder throttle, that I am not getting proper fueling.:screwy:


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## topdeadcenter (Mar 23, 2010)

I was wondering the same, whether to run the ISV hose into intake boot like the 8v or the PCV port on the throttle body.
Any suggestions?


----------



## werkhaus (Jun 27, 2006)

*hesitation*

well, this thread is pretty quiet these days. Maybe the interest in this type of conversion has waned! 

Anyway....still looking for thoughts on the fuel pressure regulator (whether or not I should go with 3.5 bar)


----------



## hotfireGTI (Dec 21, 2007)

*need a bit of help*

not sure whats going on with my 16v digi2... it starts really rough. but once warmed up it idles fine... but onces i press the gas. it dies. im guessing fuel shortage somewhere or maybe engine temp sensor any ideas?


----------



## MBRACKLIFFE (Jan 17, 2003)

Romka said:


> Hey MBRACKLIFFE!
> What car did you take the Digifant system from? what engine?





rychas1 said:


> not sure if he stil hangs around, but i know he yanked the 16v from a passat and his gti was already digi2 8v.


rychas1 is correct, the motor was from a passat and my GTi was a Digi2 8v originally. Not here much at all anymore but feel free to IM me.



werkhaus said:


> well, this thread is pretty quiet these days. Maybe the interest in this type of conversion has waned!
> 
> Anyway....still looking for thoughts on the fuel pressure regulator (whether or not I should go with 3.5 bar)


Should allow the engine to run a little richer which since this swap tends to run lean it doesn't hurt. Easy enough to switch back if results are not favorable. I say try it and let us know.

Glad to see people are still getting good use from this thread.:beer:


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## werkhaus (Jun 27, 2006)

*16v digi II fuel issue*

Well, I did try the old trick of increasing fuel pressure by squeezing the fuel pressure regulator in a vise to get 3.5 bar. The car is definitely running stronger on the road warmed up. I still am having issues with the throttle. There is a slight lag sometimes...much worse when cold. 

I am wondering if I made a mistake by running aba injectors and not the digi II ones. Is there a difference in injectors? Should I put the digi II injectors in (meaning...have I unwittingly added into the mix a variable that shouldn't be there?)

well....she is running pretty good over all....90+ % 

maybe 'perfect' is unobtainable:laugh:


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## hotfireGTI (Dec 21, 2007)

*16v digi2 fuel shortage?*

soo once i get my 16v digi2 warmed up and idling normal... once i press the gas? it dies... im not sure where to start... running the fuel richer maybe? i dont kno where to start. can someone help me out?


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## hotfireGTI (Dec 21, 2007)

*16v isv and 8v isv*

how do you tell the difference? can i get a part number for the 16v isv?


----------



## datGREENdub (May 22, 2009)

*fuel rail and fpr question?*

will the stock fpr work with this rail? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cust...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories if not which one will?


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## hotfireGTI (Dec 21, 2007)

soo got it started. but its idling at like 3. any ideas?


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## AntiSUV (May 30, 2003)

hotfireGTI said:


> soo once i get my 16v digi2 warmed up and idling normal... once i press the gas? it dies... im not sure where to start... running the fuel richer maybe? i dont kno where to start. can someone help me out?


I am having the exact same issue. If any one has an answer for this I would be very thankful.
92 gti 2.0 16v


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## x85golf (Jan 13, 2009)

whats going on guys. well, i almost done with my 9a digi 2 swap. so my question is what should i look out for if it dont start? thanks.


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## onelowranger (Feb 6, 2010)

*1990 passat 16v*

i have a 16v passat can u tell me what i need to make it efi


----------



## aint rubbin aint dubbin (Jul 15, 2010)

*what engine?*

hey guys. just bought myself a 6n polo 1.4cl purely to make a project - vr6 engine swap. however it seems it will take forever and a day to fit with the driveshaft, wiring, manifolds and stuff. 
what engine would go in easily and produce a decent bhp? im thinking 1.8 16v from a mk2 golf???
ideas would be appreciated. CHEERS!!


----------



## getamongst-it (Oct 5, 2005)

*good news!*

Just


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## getamongst-it (Oct 5, 2005)

*good news! and lookin for some input.*

Just finished my Digi2 16v swap.

REALLY happy with it! thing rips!! only a few minor issues to sort out. so i have a few questions.

the configuration i used:

-ross fuel rail
-8v tranny
-8v clutch
-16v pressure plate
-lightened eurospec flywheel
-8v throttle body
-8v hall sender in the Dizzy
-Toywagen A/C delete pulley for 16v alternator

-black CTS in flange on side of head
-blue plug into 16v CTS
-left side knock sensor
-oil pressure sensor moved to back of head

If anyone has any questions let me know. it was really straightforward the only thing i'm dealing with right now is an issue where my idle surges up and down sometimes. Im running the 8V ISV right now and whether its plugged in or not doesnt seem to effect this. The idle screw is backed all the way down so that it clicks the "idle circuit" switch at rest fine. Keep in mind this has been a flawless running Digi2 car for the past 5.5 years that I've owned it.

when idling properly it sits at about 900-950, when surging it rests at 1100 and goes up to about 2000RPM then comes back down. if you load the car up (letting the clutch out till it almost stalls) you can sometimes stop this.

I think that is has to do with the fact my crankcase breather is run to a catch can. I have blocked off the small breather on the left side of the head above the intake mani. I'm going to try recirculating the crankcase breather to the intake tube so it's stock-ish and see if that fixes my idle surge. Does anyone think its worth blocking off the crankcase breather and running one of those ABD vented oil cap adapters?


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## aaronmcadoo (Mar 4, 2007)

has anyone used the TT 16v digi2 chip yet? likes? dislikes?

I just finished my swap yesterday afternoon.  runs like a dream


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## mikinoz (Jun 20, 2005)

aaronmcadoo said:


> has anyone used the TT 16v digi2 chip yet? likes? dislikes?
> 
> I just finished my swap yesterday afternoon.  runs like a dream


I ordered one last week, shipped from US on 14th, so should be down under this week. Install next possibly and I will let you know. :thumbup:

FWIW, I put my car on the dyno last weekend - anyone care to interpret it for me? :laugh:

KR 1.8 16V DIGI 2 stock ECU


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## mikinoz (Jun 20, 2005)

Here it is!


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## aaronmcadoo (Mar 4, 2007)

I can't wait to hear your review


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## mikinoz (Jun 20, 2005)

So on a closed private road with my iPhone in one hand I have my review ready. 

The car is now with the Techtonics Tuning 16v 7K RPM EPROM installed, timed at 10 degrees before TDC - It pulls a serious amount more than before. It still has lag down low at WOT, but once you get the revs on she is like a freight train. 

As you can see it hits 7K as stated! 





 
The whistle is the exhaust. I had a rear muffler recently installed and that created the whistle. Needless to say, that has to change and will be coming off in the near future for something more throaty. I reckon there are some free KW's 

Here is a second run - but it is near on impossible to do this sort of thing on your own. 





 
And a pic for your click! 










In my opinion, it is a worthwhile upgrade.


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## aaronmcadoo (Mar 4, 2007)

looks like i will be buying one of those for my 16v. thank you


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## getamongst-it (Oct 5, 2005)

mine will currently rev to about 6750, but i think its worth getting the chip


----------



## mikinoz (Jun 20, 2005)

Weekend project!


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## -DOOMED- (Sep 7, 2004)

Ive got a 91 GTI that has been running on Digi2 that has recently started running overly rich and breaking up at ~ 4 to 4500 rpm. It's almost like it has a rev limiter. 
Anyone have any ideas?


----------



## mikinoz (Jun 20, 2005)

With a fault like that before you fiddle with settings/sensors etc I'd try a new ecu that you know is working. 

I had the same thing in mine and replaced the ecu and she hums!


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## -DOOMED- (Sep 7, 2004)

Oddly enough that was the idea I had as well. Just sort of needed someone to confirm that suspicion.


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## mikinoz (Jun 20, 2005)

Unfortunately I did it last and spent heaps on all the sensors in the process. 

All the best!


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## -DOOMED- (Sep 7, 2004)

I threw a few parts at it. Some were just because.


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## mikinoz (Jun 20, 2005)

header on fitted like a glove










this plus that, 8 hours later shazzam



















fatty and skinny










this whole system has opened things up dramatically.

And the perfect angle










Oh did I mention the commitment to the Hooker meant some bodyworks?










I am forming up some galv sheet once I have made a cardboard template. Initially it will be rivets and silastic but longer term it will be a thicker gauge and MIG'd.

Here is the sound from cold start, such a bad weather day I did not get it warm. Enjoy!


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## -DOOMED- (Sep 7, 2004)

Known good ECU hasn't solved the issue. The car runs great until its warmed up and then all the issues come to life. 
It has: 
Known good ECU and MAF
New O2 sensor
Brand new plugs and Wires
It just breaks up really bad from 3500- 4500
At idle it won't return to idle right away, it will idle at 1500- 2000 for at least a second before dropping to 950-1000 RPM at Idle. 
The car runs fantastic at full throttle, but cruising along it runs like garbage.


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## mikinoz (Jun 20, 2005)

Bummer it was not the ECU, which makes an easy fix.

Blue temp sensor is another one to check as well as your earths.

The only other thing that I can think of is possibly you have some problem with the idle/wot switches on the throttle that could have come out of adjustment.

When the idle drops, it is stable and not hunting right?

Do you have a copy of the Bentley manual?


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## -DOOMED- (Sep 7, 2004)

Blue temp sensor is brand new. I have a bentley manual and I don't drive the car daily. The idle is stable when it takes it a second to idle down, no hunting.


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## mikinoz (Jun 20, 2005)

-DOOMED- said:


> Blue temp sensor is brand new. I have a bentley manual and I don't drive the car daily. The idle is stable when it takes it a second to idle down, no hunting.


Any more luck with this?

--

Dear Internet,

I have for a long time been told that the car that I bought could be a fire breathing green dragon - tonight she showed me she is.

Love,
Mick















I love my 16V!! :thumbup:


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## hyperformancevw (Mar 15, 2007)

check the resistance in the VAM. put a volt put a volt meter on it and move the air door by hand to see if there are any dead spots or spikes.


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## -DOOMED- (Sep 7, 2004)

mikinoz said:


> Any more luck with this?


Found a couple pretty nasty vac. leaks on it and the car only pulled the fake rev-limiter action once since then. It still seems to get overly rich at times and one of the injectors intermittently pulses like crazy before startups. It may have an injector with a problem, and a possible timing issue. The other digi-16v we've got doesn't seem to exhibit these issues.


----------



## MyFastIsEvil (Apr 10, 2010)

Heys whats up guys. 
I have been reading the thread for a while and i have decided that this is what i am going to do because the 8v called it quits. 
I seems pretty straight forward but just want to ask what do you guys think is hard about the swap?? 
My car is a 91 gti with digi 2. 
I have the 16v that i just picked up and just ordered parts from of german auto parts to rebuild the motor and get all the little stuff like hoses, o rings ,and flanges.Also going to order the bbm fuel rail and adapter. 
What other aftermarket parts do you guys think that i will need??? 

Thank you 
Orlando


----------



## EuRoGTI86 (Sep 28, 2008)

What is more preferred? BBM fuel rail or ROSS fuel rail? I've heard that people have had a few fuel leak fires b/c of the BBM fuel rail.???..... input plz. I want to buy the better one.


----------



## daneek155 (Apr 23, 2008)

good tread planning on doing this,:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## devils-design (Nov 23, 2005)

Quite the little rocket you have there,mikinoz, , 
I just finished my swap yesterday and thought I had all the bugs sorted out when after a drive I discovered my idle is fine but as soon as I let the clutch go there's this weird bucking.. I'll post back after I check the usual , vac lines , intake boot and grounds...:facepalm:
Cheers
Shawn


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## A2HeliosGLI16v (Apr 7, 2004)

ok, ive been struggling with this for awhile now heres a little sum of what im doing, digi II swap into my 89 helios getting rid of the cis nightmare ive been having. took the wiring out of a 92 tred that i blew the motor in. i just took the engine ecu and the wiring from that to the engine bay, was this a mistake?? should i have taken the fuse pannel as well? i have everthing lined up and cut in the car will not start. i have a car that had digi II and a 16v swaped into it (i did not do this swap) the wiring going to the engnine ecu seems to be different, the dual plug has a power and ground coming from it with the key on, the three plug on the working car has poer ground and nothing on my helios it has power power nothing :banghead: any advise could help ive browsed this thread but im only on for a shiort time plz plz hp


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## A2HeliosGLI16v (Apr 7, 2004)

ok so now im chasing wiring down, it apears that i have everything but no spark? any suggestions? i thought awhile back there was a link on here to the wiring stuff


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## Black92EightValve (Oct 23, 2003)

A2HeliosGLI16v said:


> ok so now im chasing wiring down, it apears that i have everything but no spark? any suggestions? i thought awhile back there was a link on here to the wiring stuff



Sounds like you forgot to transfer the Digifant control relay over to your fuse block, without that relay you won't get spark or fuel, as the ECU is not getting power.


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## Angrygilmore (Sep 28, 2008)

*question*

Im gearing up to do this on an 87 16v rocco Im getting the parts off a 92 cabby so its all ce1. But my main question is the window for the hall sender do i have to swap out the trigger window to the one window thing or do i retain the 4 window 16v and just change the sender?


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## Black92EightValve (Oct 23, 2003)

Angrygilmore said:


> Im gearing up to do this on an 87 16v rocco Im getting the parts off a 92 cabby so its all ce1. But my main question is the window for the hall sender do i have to swap out the trigger window to the one window thing or do i retain the 4 window 16v and just change the sender?



Simply plug directly into the 16V hall sender, since you're using DigiII, it takes a 4 window.


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## A2HeliosGLI16v (Apr 7, 2004)

> Sounds like you forgot to transfer the Digifant control relay over to your fuse block, without that relay you won't get spark or fuel, as the ECU is not getting power.


 which one is that? is it on top of the fuse block?


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## joshwidener (Apr 22, 2011)

*cant get injectors to squirt*

did 16v swap and bbm rail and injectors , i extended fuel rail wire and now when i turn car over everything is working but the injectors , im getting fuel to the injectors. got spark , motor kinda turns slow but i have new battery and i checked grounds and put new starter in . maybe a ground isnt good enough im stumped and need to get it goin any help would be awesome


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## joshwidener (Apr 22, 2011)

*hello*

ok your the one i need to talk to ... so i swapped a 16v into my jetta and bought bbm fuelr rail and fpr adapt. and 30 pound injectors. i extended my fuel wire to reach . after done with swap went to start car and engine rotated slow so i found that my starter was bounding up so i replaced that then i checked spark and gas and had that but no fire so then i pulled rail connected to injectors to see if they were squirting and no there not any ideas on what might be going wrong all i did was extend that wire . i took ur advice on some other things u talked about in the thread like swappin the 8v tb was helpfull so any other thing u know whould help thanks


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## aaronmcadoo (Mar 4, 2007)

I have issue develope over the last few months of daily driving my digi2 16v car. i have noticed a surge under heavy acceleration it feels like it momentarily looses power then comes right back (not a miss) keeps pulling then does it again. 

motor specs 
1.8 16v rebuilt 3500 miles ago
tt down pipe 
tt cat back (gutted cat for now)

only does this above 4000 rpms at wot. no other time

any thoughts?

my first one is a knock sensor is taking a dive. 
maybe my VAM causing my issue. I might pick up a bmw one this week also
injectors to small? stock digi2 injectors


wot/idle switches test out (might try another tb from the wrecking yard next week)
cts tests out
o2 is newer and tests fine


next swap for me will be CE2 in this car. so i can use this digi2 engine harness in my mk1 coupe


Edit

Fixed my issue it was timing


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## VDub2506 (Jun 21, 2008)

Just did a 2.0 16v 9a into my 90 G60 corrado. Running a chipped Digi I ECU 

Ran into a problem. Idles fine but at 1300 (too High) and smokes to high heaven. Tried to adjust the idle but its all the way down. I might have a vacuum leak? What else might do this? Should I try unplugging the ISV?


----------



## GTIINSIDE (May 17, 2008)

VDub2506 said:


> Just did a 2.0 16v 9a into my 90 G60 corrado. Running a chipped Digi I ECU
> 
> Ran into a problem. Idles fine but at 1300 (too High) and smokes to high heaven. Tried to adjust the idle but its all the way down. I might have a vacuum leak? What else might do this? Should I try unplugging the ISV?


I am also having same problem mine is also 16V 9A but ported head , DIGI 1 , ECU stock chipped w/ G60 Injectors and smell a lot of gas & black smoke a friend told to change G60 injectors to DIGI 2 injectors do this will help ?


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## getamongst-it (Oct 5, 2005)

MK2JettaGL said:


> Just finished my Digi2 16v swap.
> 
> REALLY happy with it! thing rips!! only a few minor issues to sort out. so i have a few questions.
> 
> ...



just an overall update on this. car is still running solid besides the idle issues and i will be putting on a BMW AFM soon and 3.5bar FPR. i have plans for autotech cams and most likely the 7k TT chip.

one thing i did though which helped/hurt the car is put additional piping on the intake. i added about 10" in overall length so the AFM/filter are sitting up near the headlight. this helped because before i had an issue with my AFM literally falling off the intake tube. this has seemed to hurt performance tho and the car doesnt pull nearly as hard at high RPMS. i'm going to remove the extension and run it before i make the switch to the BMW afm to confirm this however. the 8V AFM seems to like roughly the stock length of intake.


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## Wil Penney (May 22, 2011)

*I think you might be able to help me alot if your interested*

I need serious Advice on some serious engine mods ( 97 Jetta 2.0)

Langley BC
Iam brand new to VORTEX , but a real Dub enthusiast. Iam a mechanic by trade but now venturing into my first import engine build and swap.... Currently running a 2.0 8 valve in my 97 Jetta. But have just purchased a 1991 2.0 16 valve. My plans are to strip the 16v and build it. Although i want to make this thing STRAIGHT RETARDED, if ya know what i mean, yet street legal.I have many questions and need guidance from guys that know.
For example there 2 different fuel injection systems, do i go all new fuel management, stand alone or just piggy back off my stock system.
head work..... ported and polished??? how much can i port?
Valves and seat????? CAMS ?? i want 9 thousand RPM out of this thing, don't really need a crazy top speed, more just in town or quarter mile... throttle body ??what works best with a 16v
As you can see i need serious advice. Hope to here some feedback.
thanks Wil..............


Anyhow this what i posted just recently.. after reading what you wrote about your conversion, i realized that you most defiantly know what my concerns are. I hope that we can talk.


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## montanagreenmk2 (Dec 31, 2010)

thinking bout swaping my 8v to 16v this should come in handy:thumbup:


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## eme411 (Aug 27, 2008)

*DIGI 1 set on 16V*

Have done a swap using the G60 digi 1, it starts but when I tried to rev it up it will stall and only idle when ISV is disconected.

Need help.


----------



## pllucki (May 23, 2011)

Hello, how to move the limiter on ~7000 for free?


Change quartz ?


----------



## thesk8nmidget (Jun 26, 2011)

im doing a 16v swap on my 1983 gti rabbit and the donor motor was already swapped to digi 2, my question is what wire do i give switched power to on the digi harness?

and is there anything else i need to do wiring wise?


----------



## Gede Nimbo (Aug 13, 2004)

*'92 Modded Dig 2 16V swap done but little issues arise..*

So my Digi conversion has been done around 2 years ago but I have kept the car in the garage.. Ever since I completed the full conversion, I have had problems with the oil level light blinking in the cluster and the Coolant temp light flickering.. Is there a way to go through this or a remedy for it? I used the Dig 2 sensors as recommended in the initial install diagram.. 

Thanks,
Chris


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## DumpdDirTEEDubZ (Sep 28, 2006)

so have few questions. have a 88 gti 16v (ce1) and po swapped to digi2(ce2) but still has the ce1 fuse/relay blocks. had spark,fuel etc. tried to get started and lost spark....changed ecu, distributor w/ hall sender, and coil also checked all grounds still no spark.battery is relocated to trunk if that means anything. anyone have any ideas? must i swap new ce2 fuse block and harness and start new?


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## mexvdubr91 (Nov 25, 2009)

*wiring question*

Hi guys, 
I'm the process of swapping a 2.0 16v into my 86 cabriolet, I rebuilt the engine and added some small mods like autotech cams, raceland headers and solid mounts. As of today, the engine is already in the car but I am having trouble with the digifant 2 wiring harness. Ive seen a picture of a labeled wiring harness but I think that is from a digi 1, and from what I can see, it is a little different.
So what I need is a picture of a labeled Digi 2 wiring harness or something that could help me identify the pins.

Thanks for reading this. Any help would be very appreciated.:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## laychooba (Mar 2, 2001)

question.

that hole to the left of my CTS, does it need to be blocked
off, or can i just run it open like that?


----------



## 92golft25 (Feb 21, 2011)

i have the older 1.8 16v and can i use the 8v computer and harness and jus chip it??????????


----------



## CaBrIo16v (May 24, 2012)

Is there anybody still using this thread?


----------



## D727 (Jun 7, 2012)

*need help*

i have a problem with my 1990 gli with the midtroic system i was thinking of putting a carb on but want to keep fuel injection system could you send me step by step t help me with this conversion plz respond back


----------



## jeremy_almond (Aug 13, 2012)

Why would you not use 16v injectors for a 16v engine and ecu?


----------



## big_hot_tamale (Dec 20, 2003)

*swap w/o ISV possible? engine is running like crud!*

hey folks, read almost the entire thread, good stuff, hoping someone has some insight here.

I did a 16v 2.0 turbo install running Digi I from a Corrado. Almost everything is new, except the coil and 16v coolant temp sensor. The car starts and idles fine all day long, but boggs and bucks under load and sometimes when trying to hold revs in neutral.

the only major difference in install procedure is that I opted to not use the ISV. I'm in texas, we see 32deg F maybe two days out of the year (like tonight) so I don't mind warming the engine up a few min before leaving the house which is what I read people do when they do an ISV delete. Since the OBD2 throttlebody I'm using has no idle adjustment mechanism, I'm running a 1/8NPT bypass hose from the intake pipe just before the t-body to the intake manifold. I do have a ball valve inline but it seems to idle at a sweet 850-900 rpm with the valve fully open (so I prob don't need it, but it's there in case idle rises after being run a long time and I need to choke it a bit)

It's not turbo related, as I've disconnected the plumbing after the IC so it's basically like a N/A digi setup. The digi1 (corrado) co-pot aka. MAF is located 9" from the t-body and it ohms out good, set to 500.

gas goes form new fuel cell to new cis fuel pump to new inline filter to injector rail for 3.5bar fpr to return line/tank. I see a constant 48psi on my gauge at the end of the rail before the FPR during idle, but can't monitor it during driving. I'll try to rotate it and run w/o a hood or maybe install a pressure sensor/gauge later but I have no reason to believe it's starving for fuel. Running the pump to a bucket, it does surge which I know is bad for CIS but from what I read it's ok for Digi due to the lack of a diaphram/distributor.

And spark shows up nice when I use a timing light, and no arcing as i did a water mist test at night. again everything is new, brand new dist, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, o2, knock. Grounds are solid, running dual Optimas in the trunk and alt is putting out ~13.8. No vacuum leaks that I know of as I only have vacuum lines running to brake booster, ecu, fpr, boost gauge, and bov 

I'm contemplating using the ISV, but I would rather not try to figure out how to custom fab it into the already diminishing space under the bonnet, so I'm hoping aomeone would have a say or other ideas to check.

ps. i also tried 2 diff chips in the ECU and the car performs the same using both a stock and stage4.


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## Turbo3 (Sep 15, 2005)

Can you use a 16V TB if you plan on not running an ISV?


----------



## weejunGL (Feb 2, 2005)

big_hot_tamale said:


> ps. i also tried 2 diff chips in the ECU and the car performs the same using both a stock and stage4.


hopefully these chips are made for the engine? (2.0 16vt)? and not the 1.8 8v g60 engine?

engine destruction will be the result of using a G60 chip with a turboed 16valver


----------



## big_hot_tamale (Dec 20, 2003)

weejunGL said:


> hopefully these chips are made for the engine? (2.0 16vt)? and not the 1.8 8v g60 engine?
> 
> engine destruction will be the result of using a G60 chip with a turboed 16valver


 That statement you made is a little misleading... 

A 16vT, or any car for that matter running Digi I/II will run safely, forever, using -any- chip, as long as you aren't flooring it everywhere and esp if you drive it without building any boost. It just won't run very well. 

It did not run excellent, but there was no engine destruction. air/fuel was reporting safe numbers at all times. Digi I runs simple maps between idle and WOT due to the lack of a TPS. 

I have the BBM one in there now, and the car runs better, still working out problems at upper rpms... :/


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## lil_squeeker (Nov 17, 2003)

Turbo3 said:


> Can you use a 16V TB if you plan on not running an ISV?


 doesnt matter. 
im using the 1.8 16v tb from a rocco with no issues, besides having to rewire the throttle switches. 
first start up was with no isv (plugged), and it ran fine.


----------



## oopseyesharted (Mar 2, 2005)

Ok. Here is a curve ball. I have an 85 cabby that is all stock. I want to convert it to digi 2.
How much of this 16v is going to apply to me?


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## russland (Feb 19, 2013)

Hello, all!
build 16v on digifant 2 PB
I want to use the intake manifold from the engine ABF. Fuel rail from him, too.
The question remains on the Throttle Body. From 8v will not run.


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## ADiK69 (Oct 17, 2012)

*My mk2 19v digi*

I have two movies of my 16v 9A with Digifant II from "PF". Engine is 100% series oryginal.












First with 8v PF injectors and 4bar fuel pressure regulator:






Second with g60 green injectors and 3bar regulator:








sorry for my bad english.


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## idubse7en (Aug 19, 2012)

*16v DigiII harness/ecu*

I am assuming that you used the 8v ecu and loom??? What about the digifant II control module???


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## sbrnrd8 (Sep 3, 2014)

*16v digi2 no power*

Hi guys for about 1 month I have been working on my 87 gti 1.8 16v

-engine fully rebuilt
-all brand new parts

heres my problem iswap it to digi 2 but still using my US spec fuse box....with bbm fuel rail and 8v fpr but the thing is that the car is not running properly doesn't keep idle at first I changed the cooling sensor it seemed like it was running fine but it wasn't bes=cause everytime the cooling is pluged(using blue cooling sensor from jetta)car wont start once unplug it starts.....

I also figure out that I didnt have enought pressure on the fuel rail so I optimized for the audi 2.8 injectors and I raised fuel pressure now the car idles but really fckn high
made all the adjustment still high

BUT HERES THE MAJOR PROBLEM if I go on the road with the car theres no power the car doesn't want to advance It runs like if its missing gas or timming it runs really bad.

so ive been looking on forum and stuff and im wondering if someone who did the swap and to who it actually work perfectly fine would be able to give me some guide tip beause well car starts doesn't keep idle and doesn't advance

Took everything from a 92 jetta 8v still using same 16v tb engine code PL 8v isv blue cooling sensor

thanks a lot


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## austinweisVR (Feb 21, 2006)

sbrnrd8 said:


> Took everything from a 92 jetta 8v still using same 16v tb engine code PL 8v isv blue cooling sensor
> 
> thanks a lot


you answered your own question. 16v tb is not compatible with digi2 ecu, you need an 8v tb with the correct digi2 throttle switches. please re-read the original post, it lists EVERYTHING you NEED!


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## 89CARAT8V (Oct 22, 2010)

So i just acquired a 1990 gli with the stock 2.0 16v and is ce2. I read through most of this thread and nowhere did i see any specific info on how to convert a car thats already got the 16v in it. The replies i saw about it just said that ce2 is plug and play. I understand pretty much everything, except for what will plug into the fuel injector harness once i switch everything over. Will i use one of the plugs that went to the fuel dizzy on the stock 16v system? Any insight is appreciated. In the meantime ill keep reading.


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## austinweisVR (Feb 21, 2006)

89CARAT8V said:


> So i just acquired a 1990 gli with the stock 2.0 16v and is ce2. I read through most of this thread and nowhere did i see any specific info on how to convert a car thats already got the 16v in it. The replies i saw about it just said that ce2 is plug and play. I understand pretty much everything, except for what will plug into the fuel injector harness once i switch everything over. Will i use one of the plugs that went to the fuel dizzy on the stock 16v system? Any insight is appreciated. In the meantime ill keep reading.


all you need is the stock digi2 ecu and wiring harness from an ce2 digi2 8v car auto or manual doesn't matter. remove all the cis-e motronic stuff


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## harsvw (Apr 5, 2015)

Hey guys, I have qestion about digi II. I connect almost all wire, have only one from injections to inside car (red-yellow wire, not from fuel pomp), to what wire from old motronic should I connect this? 

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## Deezy (Jan 3, 2009)

On my particular build the exhaust was not at all compatible. Luckily I still had from the cat to the head but the 16v cat out to the cat back is larger than the 8v..


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## Deezy (Jan 3, 2009)

On this particular image, i went the route without the 8v flange.
i like the metal flanges better.

the issue im left with is no where to plug in my AC shut off sensor.
does anyone happen to have a part number to replace #4 with a sensor that is always on unless overheated... 
im unsure what its called. i assume thermo switch?


When you cut the black wire connector off and plug the hot wire into #5 should we ground the brown wire?



oh and a bit of a brag


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## 89'mk3gti (Oct 5, 2010)

I could really use some trouble shooting help! Using ce1 and digi II on my 9a 16v, i have power to everything key on, starter cranks and ect. The problem i am having is that i have no signal power from the ECU to the fuel pump relay, the yellow/red wire on pin 13 that powers the relay has no power whats so ever. I can manually energize the relay and fuel pump kicks on... iv tried everything im fully stumped at this point. Any clues would be a big help. Thanks!


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## SnowyGLI (Aug 6, 2015)

Hey guys. Got the digi 2 harness in my car and am having fuel pump issues. How did you guys run the wiring in the plenum for the car harness??


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## SnowyGLI (Aug 6, 2015)

89'mk3gti said:


> I could really use some trouble shooting help! Using ce1 and digi II on my 9a 16v, i have power to everything key on, starter cranks and ect. The problem i am having is that i have no signal power from the ECU to the fuel pump relay, the yellow/red wire on pin 13 that powers the relay has no power whats so ever. I can manually energize the relay and fuel pump kicks on... iv tried everything im fully stumped at this point. Any clues would be a big help. Thanks!


Me and you are in the same boat. From what I understand the digi 2 sends a ground signal to the relay. I'm trying to figure out why mine is not coming on.


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## 89'mk3gti (Oct 5, 2010)

I found my problem. Internal in the ECU. Got a new one and it works! Make sure you have power and ground in and out of the ecu harness

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## SnowyGLI (Aug 6, 2015)

89'mk3gti said:


> I found my problem. Internal in the ECU. Got a new one and it works! Make sure you have power and ground in and out of the ecu harness
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


I've replaced the ecu twice. Can you clarify were there ground and power go in and out of ecru? Pin location and color?


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## starksan (Mar 30, 2013)

Digifant 2 ECU pinout.
http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/management/digifant2.html


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## 92volkswagengti (Apr 28, 2010)

mxman said:


> You folks have a ton of problems with your swaps, jesus, i dropped my engine in, fabbed the intake tube for hte vam, lengthened my harness for the fuel injectors, replaced the ecu i fried... used a blue coolant temp sensor in a flange i bought from the dealer, plugged my gauge for the dash into the stock 16v cts... plugged off half the connectors for vacuum, i took the stock 16v throttle body connector off my motronic harness, made sure the idle and WOT switches grounded on idle and WOT to their respective wires, and had infinite ohms when 1-99% throttle... other thant aht really its such an easy swap and i did it in like 8 hours lol the alternator swap was harder than the engien swap for me... my car idles at 950 rpm, sometimes at 1100 (no isv) ...hits fuel cutoff at about 6750 (Stock) i have a digifast chip... oh ya i also tossed the cold start injector and glued a peice of tin over the hole, i still have the connector for the ISV incase i want to hook it up... so far i havent had troubles starting cold, even with NO O2 sensor... it chugs a bit on start up blub blub blub...missing because its rich then its fine... i have the hose that goes to the airbox going to my beer can to catch blowby and the stock hose is going to the intake... really you can do this swap not hook up the o2 sensor, just make sure the vam and CTS are plugged in...or it wont start
> maybe these pics will help
> 
> 
> ...


Can you explain a little better how you wired the 16v throttle switches?


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## 719vdub (Aug 7, 2011)

*Please help.*

I've been reading through the thread. There is some awesome info here. However, my scenario hasn't quite come up fully here. 
Did a 16v digi2 swap in my 92 jetta carat. Having a major cold start issue. Won't idle and stay running. Like a lot of people here I am not running an ISV. Still running a copot. Once its warmed up it seems to run quite a bit better. Still very hesitant though with the throttle response. Can tell im not getting the power I should be getting. ECU is chipped (cant remember the brand) took it apart once and don't remember. I bought the ECU that way. It does back fire occasionally. Really spits and sputters on initial start up and driving until it clears itself out so to speak. Replaced fuel filter recently. Set the copot with multimeter. I am running the blue cts. Not sure if that's my problem or not. maybe its bad idk. Ive read a lot on here about the ISV and issues everyone has had with it. so that could be the culprit too. running scirocco intake and TB. Also not getting a temp reading on the dash. Hopefully ive given enough info to get some advice back. Thanks in advance.


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## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

co pot? Sure you do not have digi 1?


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## 719vdub (Aug 7, 2011)

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## 719vdub (Aug 7, 2011)

My apologies you're right I'm digi1 


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## 719vdub (Aug 7, 2011)

I'm Kind of new to this still. Ether way I still have a problem. 


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## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

Find out what that chip is for. Digi 1 is normally on a Boosted engine so it may be for that.


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## 719vdub (Aug 7, 2011)

I'll pull the ecu apart and see what chip it is and look it up


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## 719vdub (Aug 7, 2011)

From what the previous owner of the ecu has told me in his words is its stage 1 n/a. I do have another ecu that is chipped for boosted engine for future project 


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## 92volkswagengti (Apr 28, 2010)

719vdub said:


> I've been reading through the thread. There is some awesome info here. However, my scenario hasn't quite come up fully here.
> Did a 16v digi2 swap in my 92 jetta carat. Having a major cold start issue. Won't idle and stay running. Like a lot of people here I am not running an ISV. Still running a copot. Once its warmed up it seems to run quite a bit better. Still very hesitant though with the throttle response. Can tell im not getting the power I should be getting. ECU is chipped (cant remember the brand) took it apart once and don't remember. I bought the ECU that way. It does back fire occasionally. Really spits and sputters on initial start up and driving until it clears itself out so to speak. Replaced fuel filter recently. Set the copot with multimeter. I am running the blue cts. Not sure if that's my problem or not. maybe its bad idk. Ive read a lot on here about the ISV and issues everyone has had with it. so that could be the culprit too. running scirocco intake and TB. Also not getting a temp reading on the dash. Hopefully ive given enough info to get some advice back. Thanks in advance.


Sounds to me like a bad coolant temp sensor. Also I highly recommend the tectonics tuning chip for 16v digi swaps


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## 719vdub (Aug 7, 2011)

So with the car running I unplugged the blue cts and the motor sputtered and died. Plugged it back in and it runs again. So am I correct in assuming the cts is working? Also I should be able to scrounge the parts this weekend to reinstall the ISV. I guess I'll wait and see if that helps. 


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## 719vdub (Aug 7, 2011)

92volkswagengti said:


> Sounds to me like a bad coolant temp sensor. Also I highly recommend the tectonics tuning chip for 16v digi swaps


It turned out to be the ISV. Still have some tweaking and tuning to do though. When we swapped the motor the copot was set up to run without the ISV. So now that it's there need to readjust the copot 


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## austinweis20vt (Nov 24, 2016)

719vdub said:


> Also not getting a temp reading on the dash.


there should be a single pin temp sensor in the side of the head which would be the same one for the temp gauge on the motronic cluster. you run the hot wire(I think its black and yellow but I could be wrong, I no longer have the wiring) that went to the black temp sensor to the one on the side of the head. ground the brown where ever you'd like!


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## wndrwffe (Nov 2, 2017)

aaronmcadoo said:


> I have issue develope over the last few months of daily driving my digi2 16v car. i have noticed a surge under heavy acceleration it feels like it momentarily looses power then comes right back (not a miss) keeps pulling then does it again.
> 
> motor specs
> 1.8 16v rebuilt 3500 miles ago
> ...


Praise baby Jesus for this thread AND this post. This might've just solved my issue.


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## wndrwffe (Nov 2, 2017)

running without the ISV.
it can start with low idle, and runs perfectly when warmed up.
when cold during warm up, car dies when i coast in neutral. 
with the ISV plugged in, it idles fine for a few seconds, then starts surging.

I have redone my grounds, replaced my vacuum lines from the TB, checked my intake route, my ISV hums when ignition is at accessory, and replaced the blue CTS. 
If you're in Ontario, Canada running this setup--I'll pay you to get this car running right lol.

engine is 9A running Digifant II. 
I chipped a spare ECM with CSW/Digifast and installed it--car idles perfectly when warmed up, no more lag. smooth off the line, and pulls better to the high RPMs.


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## zzaappdd (Feb 19, 2017)

*Anyone still running this setup?*

Hello all, I'm looking for some help on a very old thread.

There's lots of good information here, but I can't seem to find someone in the same situation as me. I have a GLI built in 1/90, so it's a 16v with CIS-E and it's CE2 (as far as I can figure). I have a 1990 Jetta 8v with Digi 2 as a donor car, which is also CE2. I pulled the ECU and harness from the Digi car and everything there makes sense... except for the coil wiring.

CIS-E uses a single plug for the coil, which is tied into the ECU harness. On Digi 2, the ECU harness has a black wire and a red wire coming from the ECU harness, as well as a black wire and a red wire coming from the harness that goes to the fusebox (referred to as the "Engine Compartment/Management, Right Side" harness on A2resource).

I also noticed that the CIS-E harness has two 6-pin connectors by the ECU. Digi has two 6-pin connectors as well, but one of them connects to the "knock box," which leaves a gray female 6-pin connector from the CIS-E empty.

After a bit of reading through the Bentley and what I could find on Vortex, I figured the simplest way to solve both of those problems is to take the engine compartment/management harness from the Digi car and put it into my GLI. I pulled the harnesses from both cars, and laid them out side by side.

Using the Digi harness solves the problems I had but made some new problems :laugh: I'm not quite sure how to go about wiring in the Digi harness to the fuse box. It looks as though its relatively plug and play as they're both CE2, but the relays are a bit different. According to the Bentley, relay #3 is "Digifant Control Unit." Sounds important, but why is relay #3 empty on the GLI fusebox? I assume because it's not Digi  The wiring into the back of relay #3 appears to be the same on the Digi car and the CIS car... is that relay necessary? I also notice that there is a very similar red/black wire heading to the back of the fuel pump relay on both harnesses, but the wiring on the fuel pump connectors is a bit different between the Digi and CIS fuseboxes.

If someone could point me in the right direction with potentially helpful schematics or pinouts, or if anyone else has come across this and has some pics of their fusebox setup, it would be super helpful. Thanks in advance


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## 2011 Touareg TDI (May 20, 2019)

Funny I'm trying to do this now but have only found a 88 Jetta donor and not sure if the digi 2 in the 88 Jetta is good enough. What is the best year for digi 2?


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## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

They are all essentially the same. Depends what you are putting it in. The ~90 and later CE2 harness may be easier depending what it is going in.


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## 2011 Touareg TDI (May 20, 2019)

1991 b3 passat 16v 9a


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