# Which sensors must the 1.8T have resistor bypassed for adaptive fueling to work? Let's get this 100%



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

I have read the n112, and then in a thread by Jwalker1.8 he posted that *all* of them require a resistor in place to satisfy the requirements to keep adaptive fueling going.

I have searched and can not seem to find a definitive answer on this issue. 
Also 10 watt resistors? I got rid of my SAI relay and I have would like to not run giant block resistors, since I do not think they are required now.

Discuss. Hopefully this can be put in the FAQ


----------



## dlsolo (Sep 6, 2004)

*FV-QR*

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4103572
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4060320


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Yeah I remember those threads, but there is nothing concrete there except DonR saying you need to have the circuits completed for the solenoids or adaptation does not happen.
Well exactly which circuits?
I am running without the following:
N249
N112 
N75
N205 <---- camshaft phase adjuster solenoid
Secondary air injection pump and relay.
It would be nice to know *EXACTLY* what needs to be completed and what can just be hacked off or depinned from the ECU.
You know?


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*

I thought with Tapp you could just cut all that out, but With uni you need them resistored


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubinsincuwereindiapers* »_I thought with Tapp you could just cut all that out, but With uni you need them resistored










Well I still do not have any sort of adaptive O2, I think it is a physical thing on the ECU, as the circuits physically have to be completed for some reason, so that the adaptation circuits functionality depends upon the circuits completion.

I am running Tapp 630cc/Maestro. So yep


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*

hmm.. maybe resistor them off one at a time and log.. that would answer it once and for all.... at least on your car


----------



## dlsolo (Sep 6, 2004)

*FV-QR*

I had the same issue when I first gutted my emissions stuff. With Uni, you need to have just one of them resistor'd, but I'm not sure which one exactly. I want to say it was the SAI connector. I currently have them all resistor'd just to make life a bit easier.


----------



## Henni (May 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (dlsolo)*

I remember reading somewhere that there 3 things that needed to be resistore'd. 
I do know for the SAI it is a 10W 330ohm resistor

I am curious with this also. I have REVO STG II (the PO had it installed before I bought my car) I will be deleting the SAI, EVAP and PCV system soon. am I capable of deleting that stuff and resistor'ing it?




_Modified by Henni at 7:27 PM 2-15-2010_


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (dlsolo)*

well... IE sells the resistor with the intention of it being used for the sai... so


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Henni)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Henni* »_I remember reading somewhere that there 3 things that needed to be resistore'd. 
I do know for the SAI it is a 10W 330ohm resistor

I am curious with this also. I will be deleting the SAI, EVAP and PCV system soon.

_Modified by Henni at 7:13 PM 2-15-2010_
i resistored all of them, incluyding the sai pump.. 4 resistors in total... what the op wants to know is what needs to be resistored if it all is written out of your flash...


----------



## NOLA_VDubber (May 24, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

No need for 10 watt resistors. Do the math and you will see that 1W resistors on everything are more than safe. I've actually been using 1/2W resistors from radioshack for over a year now without issue.
Put a resistor on your SAI pump, your EVAP plug, and N249 plug. Even when deleted from the tune, you will still need these things resistored to get adaptation. Oh, and I left the N75 plugged in, but i think you can resistor that out as well


_Modified by NOLA_VDubber at 6:30 PM 2-15-2010_


----------



## Henni (May 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

Unfortunately for me, REVO is crap. I don't have the money for another software flash.... yet.


----------



## Henni (May 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (NOLA_VDubber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NOLA_VDubber* »_No need for 10 watt resistors. Do the math and you will see that 1W resistors on everything are more than safe. I've actually been using 1/2W resistors from radioshack for over a year now without issue.
Put a resistor on your SAI pump, your EVAP plug, and N249 plug. Even when deleted from the tune, you will still need these things resistored to get adaptation. Oh, and I left the N75 plugged in, but i think you can resistor that out as well

_Modified by NOLA_VDubber at 6:30 PM 2-15-2010_

Hmmm.... what about the N112?


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Ok, I had this issue when I first deleted everything. My fuel trims would not adapt. I spoke with some of the tuners and the best way to describe it is this. The tunes get rid of check engine lights...the light is what is deleted, not the problem. So basically, if you delete your SAI, N249, evap, VVT, ect. and you have your tuner delete those things you will not get any check engine lights if you just unplug them...what will happen is the computer will still see those things are missing and your fuel trims will not adapt. At this point you have two options...plug the electronic solenoids back in or solder in a resistor to get your fuel trims back. Personally I have all the solenoids plugged in and the VVT resistored.
In my opinion the only reason someone should resistor the things like SAI, N249, and EVAP is if they do not have a tune that will delete the check engine lights.
For those people who do not have tunes to delete the check engine light resistors do the trick.


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*

i still pop a cel for the improper flow code http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## Henni (May 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

I am glad I have VAD for me to clear codes.
Thanks for all of the PM's and help guys. I didn't mean to hijack the thread but alot of my questions have been answered.
Thanks everyone!








There are reasons why I like this forum so much. Thanks everyone!


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Henni)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Henni* »_
Hmmm.... what about the N112?

N112 is SAI


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Henni)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Henni* »_I am glad I have VAD for me to clear codes.
Thanks for all of the PM's and help guys. I didn't mean to hijack the thread but alot of my questions have been answered.
Thanks everyone!








There are reasons why I like this forum so much. Thanks everyone!
Its a roll of the dice really... you either get flamed, or get a ton of help.. you aproached the forum the right way, and came out on top


----------



## vwturbowolf (Nov 28, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

it would be nice to figure out a concrete setup to know everything is correct.
when i did wire tuck. i left n249 and n112 plugged in just hid them out of the way.
the sai pump wires----which i think were larger gauge wire. i cut the plug off and soldered a resistor on.
i put the evap in the wheelwell.
the n75 is plugged in elctronically and hidden away,

i use revo for now and the only code i have is for pump missing but i am not sure about the fuel trims


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (vwturbowolf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwturbowolf* »_
t i am not sure about the fuel trims

Check measuring block 32...should be +/- 10% if it is set straight at 0 then you are not adapting. If you just unplugged the ecu, or battery you may say 0 also but just drive a bit easy and check again, it adapts fairly fast


----------



## technician (Jun 29, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jwalker1.8* »_Ok, I had this issue when I first deleted everything. My fuel trims would not adapt. I spoke with some of the tuners and the best way to describe it is this. The tunes get rid of check engine lights...the light is what is deleted, not the problem. So basically, if you delete your SAI, N249, evap, VVT, ect. and you have your tuner delete those things you will not get any check engine lights if you just unplug them...what will happen is the computer will still see those things are missing and your fuel trims will not adapt. At this point you have two options...plug the electronic solenoids back in or solder in a resistor to get your fuel trims back. Personally I have all the solenoids plugged in and the VVT resistored.
In my opinion the only reason someone should resistor the things like SAI, N249, and EVAP is if they do not have a tune that will delete the check engine lights.
For those people who do not have tunes to delete the check engine light resistors do the trick.

So your saying it doesn't matter that the vacuum lines aren't connected to the various N solinoids. I guess I was thinking that the solinoid would detect that the vacuum wasn't present and trip a code/not adapt. It only matters that the solinoid is there even if it's not performing its intended function?








PS- Jwalker how is the new wideband running??


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Correct. The solenoid (or resistor) needs to be there for fuel trims to adapt. If your tune writes out the check engine light just plug in the *solenoid*...if you don't have a tune that deletes the stuff use resistors.
So far so good with the wideband...don't have many miles on it yet because weather has been kinda crap but everything looks good via the measuring blocks and car starts, idles, and drives like stock...no WOT pulls yet because I have a cracked weld pre-wastegate I want to fix first. 
Edit for typo.



_Modified by jwalker1.8 at 5:24 PM 2-16-2010_


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jwalker1.8* »_Correct. The solenoid (or resistor) needs to be there for fuel trims to adapt. If your tune writes out the check engine light just plug in the resistor...if you don't have a tune that deletes the stuff use resistors.
So far so good with the wideband...don't have many miles on it yet because weather has been kinda crap but everything looks good via the measuring blocks and car starts, idles, and drives like stock...no WOT pulls yet because I have a cracked weld pre-wastegate I want to fix first. 


I am dead sure that no tune deletes the functionality, I am guessing that it is a physical requirement of the ECU to have these circuits completed for adaptive fueling to work.
So I think no matter Unitronic, Eurodyne, you NEED the resistors when you remove the solenoids.

I am heading to the electronics store now to grab some 1 watt 330ohm resistors and do this tonight to every sensor of mine now unplugged.


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (gdoggmoney)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gdoggmoney* »_

I am dead sure that no tune deletes the functionality, I am guessing that it is a physical requirement of the ECU to have these circuits completed for adaptive fueling to work.
So I think no matter Unitronic, Eurodyne, you NEED the resistors when you remove the solenoids.


Exactly what I have been saying the whole time http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## robbyrr (May 9, 2009)

also the resistor for the n249?..because i dont got one and dont get a CEL and my fuel trims adapt..(i got the n80 plugged in)...is it neccesary to plug the n29 also?


----------



## vwturbowolf (Nov 28, 2003)

*Re: (robbyrr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *robbyrr* »_also the resistor for the n249?..because i dont got one and dont get a CEL and my fuel trims adapt..(i got the n80 plugged in)...is it neccesary to plug the n29 also?

i am pretty sure you are supposed to keep the n249 plugged in just cut the vac lines off.


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: (vwturbowolf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwturbowolf* »_
i am pretty sure you are supposed to keep the n249 plugged in just cut the vac lines off.

Yes, I would double check that you are adapting your fuel trims if not...I didn't throw a check engine light because I had it written out of my tune and only realized there was a problem when looking at vag-com


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (NOLA_VDubber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NOLA_VDubber* »_No need for 10 watt resistors. Do the math and you will see that 1W resistors on everything are more than safe. I've actually been using 1/2W resistors from radioshack for over a year now without issue.
Put a resistor on your SAI pump, your EVAP plug, and N249 plug. Even when deleted from the tune, you will still need these things resistored to get adaptation. Oh, and I left the N75 plugged in, but i think you can resistor that out as well

_Modified by NOLA_VDubber at 6:30 PM 2-15-2010_

do you have any proof that with the 1/2 watt resistors that it is actually adapting? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by derekb727 at 6:33 PM 2-16-2010_


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

I can't speak for anyone's specific resistor they used but the "proof" is in measuring block 032 of vag-com. If the additive and multiplicative fields are within +/- 10% the fuel trims are adapting properly...
Here is some basic reading on fuel trims http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-c....html


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*

for what it's is worth I use 15ohm 25watt resistor in my VVT


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

well NOLA_VDubber can you provide some proof via block 032 of vag-com. lol


----------



## NOLA_VDubber (May 24, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (derekb727)*


_Quote, originally posted by *derekb727* »_
do you have any proof that with the 1/2 watt resistors that it is actually adapting? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by derekb727 at 6:33 PM 2-16-2010_

I went from 0/0 fuel trims to something other than 0. That's about all I have http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
If you do the calcs, you'll see that 1/2W is technically just a bit too small (assuming 330ohm, 14.4VDC). However, given the error in the resistance and power ratings of radioshack resistors, it seems as though they are just big enough...at least the ones I got http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

so then any resistor between 1 watt and 10 watts should work fine then correct?


----------



## NOLA_VDubber (May 24, 2007)

*Re: (derekb727)*


_Quote, originally posted by *derekb727* »_so then any resistor between 1 watt and 10 watts should work fine then correct?

Yes, though there's 100% no need to buy anything over 1W


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

alright jus to clarify as we want 100% clarity int his thread, lol


----------



## supersoaker50 (Aug 4, 2005)

*Re: Which sensors must the 1.8T have resistor bypassed for adaptive fueling to work ... (gdoggmoney)*

just found this regarding to the 1w situation, if it helps any:
"f you check the resistance of the coil in the solenoid you've removed, you'd probably see something like 16-ohms. This means that at ~14V system voltage, you'd have just less than an amp (~875mA; I=V/R) flowing when the PCM commanded that solenoid. To keep the PCM happy, you probably need to replicate a current in that range. The higher the resistance you can use, the better. The first reply says to use a 330-ohm resistor: If that works and keeps the engine light off, use it.
The reason is power dissipation and heat. A 16-ohm resistor at 875mA will dissipate just over 12W of heat, which is a ton. You'd need a fairly sizeable wirewound resistor and mount it in such a way that it's kept away from other things like vacuum and fuel lines because it will get very hot. A 330-ohm resistor, on the other hand, would have only 42mA flowing in it at 14V and would dissipate "only" 600mW -- i.e. less than a watt. This resistor will get warm to the touch but shouldn't get hot enough to worry about.
FWIW, a 10W resistor would be overkill in terms of size and packaging if 330ohm does work. Since the resistor is only dissipating 600mW, you could get away with a 1W resistor, giving yourself lots of safety margin and still having a much smaller resistor to package."
sourced from *Bluefin* in fourtitude


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

great info, weird how it surfaces so long after everyone has been using 330 ohm 10watt


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Which sensors must the 1.8T have resistor bypassed for adaptive fueling to work ... (gdoggmoney)*

SAI involves three items:
1) pump itself
2) pump relay
3) N112 kombi valve solenoid
#2 and #3 need resistors but pump does not. The ECU has no way of knowing if the pump is 'electrically plugged' in or not.


----------



## vwturbowolf (Nov 28, 2003)

*Re: Which sensors must the 1.8T have resistor bypassed for adaptive fueling to work ... (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_SAI involves three items:
1) pump itself
2) pump relay
3) N112 kombi valve solenoid
#2 and #3 need resistors but pump does not. The ECU has no way of knowing if the pump is 'electrically plugged' in or not. 

so i still have the relay plugged in. its tucked away in the cowl panel. your saying it needs a resistor or can it be left plugged in.
i cant view logs yet so i cant do this.
for the things we are removing:
n249-
n112-
pump relay-
pump itself-
n80-
n75-
we need to have someone do this:
setup everything to where your fuel trims are adapting. whatever resistors you put in and valves you leave plugged in.
then on the first item(n249) if you have it resistored, remove it, plugged in, unplug it.
see if fuel trims still adapt.
then put back to what is needed to get fuel trims to adapt.
then the next item and so on.
this way we know what needs to be setup what way.
its time consuming but it will get this done.
i would do this but i am not getting the car back on the road til spring.


_Modified by vwturbowolf at 11:01 AM 2-17-2010_


----------



## NOLA_VDubber (May 24, 2007)

*Re: (derekb727)*


_Quote, originally posted by *derekb727* »_great info, weird how it surfaces so long after everyone has been using 330 ohm 10watt

The only ones using 10W resistors were those not familiar with ohm's law








really though, a bunch of us have been preaching the 1W resistor for some time now, the info just never made it in to Sav's write-up


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: (NOLA_VDubber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NOLA_VDubber* »_
The only ones using 10W resistors were those not familiar with ohm's law










I really don't get what the big deal is though. Will there be ill effects using a bigger resistor? I mean they cost all of $3 so cost doesn't matter. IMO if it works it works as long as your not getting one too small and it gets hot or something.


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (NOLA_VDubber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NOLA_VDubber* »_
The only ones using 10W resistors were those not familiar with ohm's law








really though, a bunch of us have been preaching the 1W resistor for some time now, the info just never made it in to Sav's write-up

see i told you they would work.







been using that pack of 5 for $0.99 for two years now.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

*Re: Which sensors must the 1.8T have resistor bypassed for adapti ... (vwturbowolf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwturbowolf* »_
so i still have the relay plugged in. its tucked away in the cowl panel. your saying it needs a resistor or can it be left plugged in.
i cant view logs yet so i cant do this.
for the things we are removing:
n249-
n112-
pump relay-
pump itself-
n80-
n75-
we need to have someone do this:
setup everything to where your fuel trims are adapting. whatever resistors you put in and valves you leave plugged in.
then on the first item(n249) if you have it resistored, remove it, plugged in, unplug it.
see if fuel trims still adapt.
then put back to what is needed to get fuel trims to adapt.
then the next item and so on.
this way we know what needs to be setup what way.
its time consuming but it will get this done.
i would do this but i am not getting the car back on the road til spring.

_Modified by vwturbowolf at 11:01 AM 2-17-2010_
 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## NOLA_VDubber (May 24, 2007)

*Re: (jwalker1.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jwalker1.8* »_
I really don't get what the big deal is though. Will there be ill effects using a bigger resistor? I mean they cost all of $3 so cost doesn't matter. IMO if it works it works as long as your not getting one too small and it gets hot or something.

No ill effects or anything like that; it's just that the 10W ceramic resistors are a bit unsightly. The real advantage goes to the 1/2W resistors because they can be purchased from most radioshack locations.


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: (NOLA_VDubber)*

I hear what you are saying. I guess I just figured most would be tucking these things out of the way in the wheel well or rain tray. But yes it would be more convenient for most people to be able to go to radio shack for this stuff


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

i been using them for almost 2 years now, on the same 5 pack from RS for around $0.99. Now that the motor is out im going to cut the harnesses down, do some trimming and heat shrink and hide everything that is a dumbed harness now.


----------



## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

*Re: (jwalker1.8)*

FWIW - Ive been using TRW metal oxide 2 watters for years and never cooked one, their only twice the size of a Radio Shack half watt carbon comp resistor.


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

I have half the harness removed and I already have resistors on the SAI relay, and N112 wiring in the plastic cowl area.
I am going to work on getting access to the N249 wires further back to put the resistor away from where the plug is by the oil filter.
Then a compression test and hopefully my motor is not toasty :x


----------



## vwturbowolf (Nov 28, 2003)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gdoggmoney* »_I have half the harness removed and I already have resistors on the SAI relay, and N112 wiring in the plastic cowl area.
I am going to work on getting access to the N249 wires further back to put the resistor away from where the plug is by the oil filter.
Then a compression test and hopefully my motor is not toasty :x

gary,
once you do the compression test and make sure fuel trims are adapting would you be up to testing each thing one by one to see whats affected,?


----------



## supersoaker50 (Aug 4, 2005)

*Re: (vwturbowolf)*

i guess, i might be taking the plunge for the 1/2 330ohm as they apparently can be cawped from rs. 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif to jwalker and nola for everything. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

picked 10 up from radioshack today. $2.10 for all of them


----------



## NOLA_VDubber (May 24, 2007)

*Re: (derekb727)*

Check the resistance of each and pick the ones with the highest value. They should vary +-5-10%, and the ones with the highest resistance will have a less of a chance of burning up when 14VDC is put accross them.


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: (vwturbowolf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwturbowolf* »_
gary,
once you do the compression test and make sure fuel trims are adapting would you be up to testing each thing one by one to see whats affected,?


I do not have time









Someone else will have to step up. I have a 914 waiting on me to weld and a driveway still all ice to do, and blah.
I just need to resistor them all cleanly and make sure i have adaptive O2.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

*Re: (NOLA_VDubber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NOLA_VDubber* »_Check the resistance of each and pick the ones with the highest value. They should vary +-5-10%, and the ones with the highest resistance will have a less of a chance of burning up when 14VDC is put accross them.

where are you seeing the pink?


----------



## vwturbowolf (Nov 28, 2003)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gdoggmoney* »_

I do not have time









Someone else will have to step up. I have a 914 waiting on me to weld and a driveway still all ice to do, and blah.
I just need to resistor them all cleanly and make sure i have adaptive O2. 

understood, even if someone gets it so that their trims are adapting. they just gotta post how they have everything setup and we will know to follow that setup.


----------



## NOLA_VDubber (May 24, 2007)

*Re: (derekb727)*


_Quote, originally posted by *derekb727* »_
where are you seeing the pink?

seeing the pink?


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

*Re: (NOLA_VDubber)*

whoooooaaaa, ignore the post. lol


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

*Re: (derekb727)*

I have 10W 330 ohm resistors on the n112, n249 and evap but nothing on the SAI pump itself. No trim problems I dont think.


----------



## EugeneDubbin (Aug 31, 2008)

I need to do all these deletes. I would love to provide the information you seek, however I do not have Vag-Com, but have a friend with one. I will check with him tomorrow, and odds are good that he'll say yes


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

more good reading


----------



## supersoaker50 (Aug 4, 2005)

*Re: (carsluTT)*

didnt seem to have any luck as the cel for evap kicked back on after running the 1/2 watt resistors. 
i just ordered the 1w from digikey...kinda excited


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

*Re: (supersoaker50)*


_Quote, originally posted by *supersoaker50* »_didnt seem to have any luck as the cel for evap kicked back on after running the 1/2 watt resistors. 
i just ordered the 1w from digikey...kinda excited


Evap will still give an incorrect flow with the resistors installed. it works similar to the SAI system. You will have to get a chip tuner to delete the evap incorrect flow code from your ECU.


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: (supersoaker50)*


_Quote, originally posted by *supersoaker50* »_didnt seem to have any luck as the cel for evap kicked back on after running the 1/2 watt resistors. 
i just ordered the 1w from digikey...kinda excited

1st off, I use to work for the guy that invented the ss50.
2nd, which DTC? open circuit or not functioning?


----------



## supersoaker50 (Aug 4, 2005)

*Re: (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_
1st off, I use to work for the guy that invented the ss50.
2nd, which DTC? open circuit or not functioning?

1st - thats the coolest thing ive heard all day, what do/did you do?
2nd - p0444, its open circuit


----------



## inivid (Aug 25, 2003)

*Re: (supersoaker50)*

Has anyone actually metered the values of everything in it's OEM operating state? As an electronics technician (and being the victim of a very analytical mind), I'm quite curious to see actual data from the solenoids in relation to the fuel adaptation data, during normal operation. Seems to be a lot of trial and error going on. Comprehensive data could eliminate that and save everyone some time. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
I'd gladly satisfy my own curiosity and take some readings and logs myself, but my car is on a boat, somewhere in the Atlantic.










_Modified by inivid at 9:01 AM 2-25-2010_


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: (inivid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *inivid* »_Has anyone actually metered the values of everything in it's OEM operating state? As an electronics technician (and being the victim of a very analytical mind), I'm quite curious to see actual data from the solenoids in relation to the fuel adaptation data, during normal operation. Seems to be a lot of trial and error going on. Comprehensive data could eliminate that and save everyone some time. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
I'd gladly satisfy my own curiosity and take some readings and logs myself, but my car is on a boat, somewhere in the Atlantic.









_Modified by inivid at 9:01 AM 2-25-2010_

I kept the solenoids off of my wife's Jetta. I can check them with my radio shack flip top tiny multimeter.
It is no fluke, but last time we checked it vs a fluke, it was as accurate.

My car is down pending machine shop finishing my manifold and hardware coming in the mail. 


_Modified by gdoggmoney at 1:32 PM 2-25-2010_


----------



## CorvetteKillerVr6 (May 9, 2007)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*

They can't delete SAI on mk4's !
so it needs to stay in.
even C2 cannot fix the improper SAI flow code, so the car wont pass Canadian e-test.
Im running Unitronic 440cc 12v VR6.
in the mean time, ive found some 330ohm,5w,5% resistors to use for the SAI pump, the SAI Solenoid, and the Intake changeover Solenoid.
i should mention that im still getting the MAF signal too low, EPC light.
even with these resistors installed ( without the Solenoids, just the resistor ends stuck into the 2-pin harness connectors, of all three.
i still get codes, the only one that goes away is the Intake change over Solenoid code.....

here's what im getting when i scan with Vag-Com.(weird part is the EVAP codes, as all my evap is still plugged in with the purge valve and check valve under the hood. as for the leak detection pump, it could be shot?

17833-Evap Purge Valve(N80):short to ground
P1425-35-00
17880-Evap leak detection Pump: short to ground
P1472-35-00
17843-Secondary air injection pump relay(J299): short to ground
P1435-35-00
17840-Secondary Air injection Solenoid Valve(n112): open circuit
P1432-35-00
17525-O2 sensor heating circuit :B1 s2:short to ground
16486-mass air flow(g70):signal too low


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: (CorvetteKillerVr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorvetteKillerVr6* »_They can't delete SAI on mk4's !
so it needs to stay in.
even C2 cannot fix the improper SAI flow code, so the car wont pass Canadian e-test



Can you expand on this please? I have Eurodyne software and had Unitronic software and have ZERO codes!


----------



## CorvetteKillerVr6 (May 9, 2007)

*Re: (jwalker1.8)*

i run VR6 440cc unitronic BT


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: (CorvetteKillerVr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorvetteKillerVr6* »_i run VR6 440cc unitronic BT

This is the 1.8t section


----------



## CorvetteKillerVr6 (May 9, 2007)

*Re: (jwalker1.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jwalker1.8* »_
This is the 1.8t section

yeah but were all discussing mk4 ECU's
wether it be vr6 or 1.8t, they all use the same resistors to fool the ME7 ECU.


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Oh, I must not have realized that...I thought the title of this thread said something about which sensors the 1.8t needs in it...didn't see anything else in the thread related to vr except your post.


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

I still don;t understand where you say "they can't delete SAI on MK4's" Please explain


----------



## CorvetteKillerVr6 (May 9, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jwalker1.8* »_I still don;t understand where you say "they can't delete SAI on MK4's" Please explain

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4779670

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

*These are not the same ecu's and should not be interpreted as though they are * I have NO experience with the workings of a VR or vrt ecu and anything I post in this section def does not apply to any other platforms unless noted.
EDIT: They may both be ME7 ecu's but that doesn not necessarily mean everything that applies to one applies to another.
I spoke to Chris Tapp of Eurodyne who informed me there are literally hundreds of variations of ME7 ecu's.


_Modified by jwalker1.8 at 7:59 PM 2-28-2010_


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: (CorvetteKillerVr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorvetteKillerVr6* »_

17833-Evap Purge Valve(N80):short to ground
P1425-35-00
17880-Evap leak detection Pump: short to ground
P1472-35-00
17843-Secondary air injection pump relay(J299): short to ground
P1435-35-00
17840-Secondary Air injection Solenoid Valve(n112): open circuit
P1432-35-00
17525-O2 sensor heating circuit :B1 s2:short to ground
16486-mass air flow(g70):signal too low



On a side note I once had similar codes when my battery ground connection was loose. I would double check ALL the connections to the battery and fuse box ect.


----------



## supersoaker50 (Aug 4, 2005)

*Re: (jwalker1.8)*

just got my order from digikey. (btw that place is super quick on shipping!)
got 10, 330ohm 1w resistors. Im going to install tomorrow morning and hopefully get to vagcom early also.


----------



## CorvetteKillerVr6 (May 9, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jwalker1.8* »_*These are not the same ecu's and should not be interpreted as though they are * I have NO experience with the workings of a VR or vrt ecu and anything I post in this section def does not apply to any other platforms unless noted.
EDIT: They may both be ME7 ecu's but that doesn not necessarily mean everything that applies to one applies to another.
I spoke to Chris Tapp of Eurodyne who informed me there are literally hundreds of variations of ME7 ecu's.

_Modified by jwalker1.8 at 7:59 PM 2-28-2010_

yeah sorry dude, i guess I realised not all ME7 ecu's where the same, they change as per different engine codes and what not.
but i was mostly refering to the 330ohm resistor trick working on pretty much anything ME7 to fool the ecu into thinking Solenoids, Pumps etc. are all there and plugged in..
seems to be there beraly anyone using this on a ME7 controlled Vr6.
im having better luck getting anwsers from you crazy 1.8t nuts








http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
either way, im going to check my grounds tonight.
someone else told me the exact same thing, that they had battery connction issues and they got a bunch of short to grounds....
we'll see, hopefully i can get it down to the one improper flow code and now EPC light...


----------



## coreyj (Aug 18, 2006)

i can confirm that adaption still works on eurodyne software that has the deleted files. with no resistors installed. but i only had the 2 solenoids under the intake manifold unplugged.


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

sai pump isnt necessary to have anything, what is the other you have with nothing?


----------



## 2literA2 (Feb 16, 2000)

Does anyone have any experience on whether this is necessary when reflashing the car with Maestro and having all of the emissions devices "deleted"?


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: (2literA2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2literA2* »_Does anyone have any experience on whether this is necessary when reflashing the car with Maestro and having all of the emissions devices "deleted"?

Lol, did you read the thread?


----------



## CorvetteKillerVr6 (May 9, 2007)

*Re: (jwalker1.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jwalker1.8* »_
Lol, did you read the thread?

some poeples kids eh?


----------



## 2literA2 (Feb 16, 2000)

Actually YES, I read the thread... however; I interpreted that when using UNI (Not Maestro) you had to simulate the loads of the solenoids (and pump) using resistors to achieve all readiness codes. No one made mention of Maestro.
And just so you smart asses know... as well as, anyone who may be curious, Maestro has the items deleted from the programming and it's not necessary to simulate the loads in order to achieve adaptive fueling. I confirmed it this evening, since I'm running Maestro and have the items deleted, and block 032 is showing adjustments.


_Modified by 2literA2 at 9:28 PM 3-2-2010_


----------



## mdubcajka12 (Aug 7, 2006)

*Re: (2literA2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2literA2* »_Actually YES, I read the thread... however; I interpreted that when using UNI (Not Maestro) you had to simulate the loads of the solenoids (and pump) using resistors to achieve all readiness codes. No one made mention of Maestro.
And just so you smart asses know... as well as, anyone who may be curious, Maestro has the items deleted from the programming and it's not necessary to simulate the loads in order to achieve adaptive fueling. I confirmed it this evening, since I'm running Maestro and have the items deleted, and block 032 is showing adjustments.

_Modified by 2literA2 at 9:28 PM 3-2-2010_

lets see the numbers here.


----------



## 1991MK2 (Jun 5, 2008)

*Re: (mdubcajka12)*

Is there such a thing as too much resistance for the resistors? All of the local radio shacks never have the resistor i need so could i do something that has a higher resistance? Also what will vagcom permanently delete the sai improper flow code? I have access to someone that has one but don't know what i would ask him or what i would accomplish.


----------



## tommyjetta (Dec 25, 2007)

*Re: (1991MK2)*

Not trying to thread jack but ive been having a problem with my car and maybe it has something to do with this fuel trim stuff? Im not sure when it started but it could have possibly been after i did the evap sai delete. Sometimes when im driving the car it runs perfectly fine and other times when i go into boost it misfires like crazy i get smoke outta the tail pipe and cuts all boost and then 5 mins later down the road it will be fine. i wired one resistor into the sai but i still have a code for it (actually i have a code for sai and evap) now im wondering about this fuel trim stuff....do i need more resistors? so far ive done all new coils plugs fuel filter like a year ago an o2 sensor (post cat) and cleaned my maf im pretty much out of ideas maybe someone can help?


----------



## tommyjetta (Dec 25, 2007)

*Re: (tommyjetta)*


----------



## tommyjetta (Dec 25, 2007)

*Re: Which sensors must the 1.8T have resistor bypassed for adaptive fueling to work ... (gdoggmoney)*

anyone?


----------



## kkkustom (Jun 5, 2007)

ROFL look at all the people running to Radio Shack over internet tuners here.
Unitronic 830CC BT software, I have logs showing adaption numbers and I will honestly tell you I hack and wacked the wiring in my car when the motor went back in. If it was deleted in the SW, it got snipped off. thats it.


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *kkkustom* »_ROFL look at all the people running to Radio Shack over internet tuners here.
Unitronic 830CC BT software, I have logs showing adaption numbers and I will honestly tell you I hack and wacked the wiring in my car when the motor went back in. If it was deleted in the SW, it got snipped off. thats it. 




And I can tell you when I did the same thing with Uni 630 file I had no adaptation. I ended up having to plug the solenoids back in for adaptation...Per DonR, Lavi, and [email protected] recommendations. As far as I know these guys are not JUST internet tuners.


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*

Hmmm...****. So does anyone know off hand the wire colors for the N112, SAI pump, and EVAP N80? Luckily the VVT, N75, and N249 were part of the engine harness and I have those all pinned out.
Edit: I know the SAI pump one wire is the thick white w/ red stripe off the relay.


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

What year and engine code is the harness from? This is all in the back of the Bentley manuals.


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*

awp...but nm. theres a local here who i know has all this stuff still in. gonna peep his tomorrow.


----------



## NOLA_VDubber (May 24, 2007)

*Re: (kkkustom)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kkkustom* »_ROFL look at all the people running to Radio Shack over internet tuners here.
Unitronic 830CC BT software, I have logs showing adaption numbers and I will honestly tell you I hack and wacked the wiring in my car when the motor went back in. If it was deleted in the SW, it got snipped off. thats it. 


I had absolutely no adaptation on my 630 file after deleting my evap, sai, etc. Once putting on resistors, it came back. No e-tuning here; as I confirmed these findings with my Vagcom cable.
As stated above, the need for resistors even after deleting these things from the file has been confirmed by reps from Uni...at least for the uni 630 files



_Modified by NOLA_VDubber at 10:45 PM 3-29-2010_


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Looks like 2003 to 2006 ATC, AWP, and BEA (for TT which should be the same for most) 
N112 is pin #9 on the ecu and is brown/yellow (goes to 9) and other wire is blue/yellow
N80 is pin #64 on ecu and violet/red (goes to 64) and the other wire is blue/yellow
Sai I can't be sure which is which because there is a pump relay and a pump motor...5 or so wires all tied into that system


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*

I looked at my emissions delete thread. SAI pump, one is the white/red wire coming off the relay, the other is a thick brown wire, which iirc goes into the ground cluster for the rest of stuff in the bay thats grounded. Thanks for the colors btw.


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

no problem


----------



## kkkustom (Jun 5, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jwalker1.8* »_

And I can tell you when I did the same thing with Uni 630 file I had no adaptation. I ended up having to plug the solenoids back in for adaptation...Per DonR, Lavi, and [email protected] recommendations. As far as I know these guys are not JUST internet tuners. 



_Quote, originally posted by *NOLA_VDubber* »_
I had absolutely no adaptation on my 630 file after deleting my evap, sai, etc. Once putting on resistors, it came back. No e-tuning here; as I confirmed these findings with my Vagcom cable.
As stated above, the need for resistors even after deleting these things from the file has been confirmed by reps from Uni...at least for the uni 630 files
_Modified by NOLA_VDubber at 10:45 PM 3-29-2010_

The E-Tuner comment was said becasue NONE of the guys from the vendor poped in and confirmed THEIR software in this thread. If you talked to them fine, post up their quotes and we all have something to go off of.
All i can tell you is I can take a pic of the engine bay and show you cliped wires here and there, and I have logs whowing adaption. infact, I posted up about a wicked rich idle afr, becasue I had way too much pressure at the rail durring idle. my idle adaption reading in block 32 was -25% and the other was around -12%. One of the first questions one of the uni guys asked me if I was adapting in that thread.
Maybe its different with the 830BT software? Maybe its different with the 630 software since you all got flash? who know, someone should speak up from the vendor and put it to rest. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (kkkustom)*

Just to add to the thread...I just got an answer from Mike Z, thru Alex on a FB chat.
If the software deletes everything for you and keeps the CELs off, there's only one thing that needs resistored and one thing that needs plugged in to keep codes away and adaptation on:
Resistor the VVT harness (if removed)
Keep N75 plugged in
That's it.


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Savvv)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Savvv* »_Just to add to the thread...I just got an answer from Mike Z, thru Alex on a FB chat.
If the software deletes everything for you and keeps the CELs off, there's only one thing that needs resistored and one thing that needs plugged in to keep codes away and adaptation on:
Resistor the VVT harness (if removed)
Keep N75 plugged in
That's it.









This makes no sense as I had no CEL and no adaptation when I deleted my evap. Contacted UNI and they told me I needed to plug the resistor back in for evap to adapt fuel trims.


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*


__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

I am running stupid rich at idle myself right now, and I have idle adaptation.
Everything that has been removed has a resistor in place.......
I need to check again today. But this is getting annoying. My car misfires at idle because of how rich it is.
There have been improvements made elsewhere in the tune with Maestro but this is a problem yet. I even sprung for a new O2 sensor. Did not change the idle issue.


----------



## Punchdance (Jun 19, 2003)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*

I have Uni 630cc file, removed SAI..... I have the Relay still in place, the pump removed and the kombi valve removed. Neither the pump or the kombi valve plugs have resistors and I have adaptation.


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: (Punchdance)*

and by kombi valve you're talking the n112 right?
and jwalker, only thing I remember regarding the evap n80 not being plugged in is the loss of the misfire counter. not sure if that still works in a bt file with it deleted from the software...


_Modified by Savvv at 10:49 AM 3-31-2010_


----------



## Punchdance (Jun 19, 2003)

*Re: (Savvv)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Savvv* »_and by kombi valve you're talking the n112 right?

_Modified by Savvv at 10:49 AM 3-31-2010_
I just looked again because I couldn't remember if the Sai (combi valve) portion on the head had any electical connections going to it which it doesn't so to revise my previous statement.... I have the N112 still hooked up electrically, pump unhooked and unresistored, and combi valve removed. Not that any of this helps much at this point because it seems that its pretty well figured out.


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: (Punchdance)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Punchdance* »_I just looked again because I couldn't remember if the Sai (combi valve) portion on the head had any electical connections going to it which it doesn't so to revise my previous statement.... I have the N112 still hooked up electrically, pump unhooked and unresistored, and combi valve removed. Not that any of this helps much at this point because it seems that its pretty well figured out.

Ok, thanks for clearing that up. I always thought the N112 was responsible for adaptation as well...on one hand I can resistor everything now while I'm able to work in there but then we'll never know otherwise lol.


----------



## NOLA_VDubber (May 24, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jwalker1.8* »_
This makes no sense as I had no CEL and no adaptation when I deleted my evap. Contacted UNI and they told me I needed to plug the resistor back in for evap to adapt fuel trims.

same here. no cel, passed rediness, N75 plugged in, yet had no adaptation (rolled like this unknowingly for six months assuming the zero fuel trims were because file was that good lol). I put resistors on everything, let it idle for 10min, check it again, and presto I have non-zero fuel trims.
Maybe it's because I have an older MAF based file? Who knows at this point


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

My EVAP system is still 100% functional and in place I refuse to clamp it because if you leave your tank open you will let the 10% ethanol absorb water and end up with bad gas.

My 630cc Eurodyne tune did not adapt at all, I put a resistor in place of everything, and I now adapt. Yay.


----------



## kkkustom (Jun 5, 2007)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Savvv* »_Just to add to the thread...I just got an answer from Mike Z, thru Alex on a FB chat.
If the software deletes everything for you and keeps the CELs off, there's only one thing that needs resistored and one thing that needs plugged in to keep codes away and adaptation on:
Resistor the VVT harness (if removed)
Keep N75 plugged in
That's it.









Exactly what i have. the N75 was unplugged, and i got a cel I put it back in and tucked it away out of sight. I still have VVT installed and enabled.
I think there are more reasons as to why some adapt and some dont. I think maybe the software release dates maybe, but I would assume that uni would chime in and say "anything prior to this date needs this or that". so maybe thats not the case.


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: (kkkustom)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kkkustom* »_
Exactly what i have. the N75 was unplugged, and i got a cel I put it back in and tucked it away out of sight. I still have VVT installed and enabled.
I think there are more reasons as to why some adapt and some dont. I think maybe the software release dates maybe, but I would assume that uni would chime in and say "anything prior to this date needs this or that". so maybe thats not the case.

Likely it is done by ECU code. Even though different codes may run the same firmware/flash, they may have a different PCB design/logic which requires the completion of the circuits to function.


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*

So the safe bet is to just resistor everything, which I know everyone has the same mindset, I don't want what I don't need just b/c. But if putting an extra $1 resistor to guarantee something into the wiring solves it...I'll probably just do that.


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*Re: (Savvv)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Savvv* »_So the safe bet is to just resistor everything, which I know everyone has the same mindset, I don't want what I don't need just b/c. But if putting an extra $1 resistor to guarantee something into the wiring solves it...I'll probably just do that.










Exactly!
How much worse would it suck to take it all apart after discovering you had to resistor some wiring you basically removed all the way through to the harness end?








I would rather have a midget stomp on my junk.


----------



## robingohtt (Nov 6, 2005)

no solid best practice for the FAQ?


----------



## BlancoNino (May 27, 2004)

i had to resistor the n112 and n80(evap) in order for the car to adapt. I also resistered the SAI pump for the hell of it.


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: (BlancoNino)*

I did some looking, and checked out the bentley. The 100 Relay is where that blue/yellow wire stems from. I know if you have that relay removed you will not have adaptation...so it'd make sense to need resistors on the n112 and n80 since they share that wire. I dunno...I'm resistoring the following: VVT, N80, N112. And plugging in the N75.


----------



## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: (Savvv)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Savvv* »_I did some looking, and checked out the bentley. The 100 Relay is where that blue/yellow wire stems from. I know if you have that relay removed you will not have adaptation...so it'd make sense to need resistors on the n112 and n80 since they share that wire. I dunno...I'm resistoring the following: VVT, N80, N112. And plugging in the N75.

This is the best bet. Other option is to just leave each of those solenoids plugged in kinda like you have the n75...does the same thing as a resistor.


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: (jwalker1.8)*

I would...but it's kinda all cut back to 3" from the ECU pin haha. And def don't have the solenoids anymore either.


----------



## velocity196 (Feb 19, 2006)

*Re: Which sensors must the 1.8T have resistor bypassed for adaptive fueling to work ... (gdoggmoney)*

Can't remeber if I posted here or not, I'm lazy and don't feel like reading thru 4 pages. I'm on uni 830 and everything except evap is unpluggged with no resisters and I trim. Evap solinoid is plugged in electricly but no vac lines no blue balls, nothing. Best of luck


----------



## artspeed (Dec 19, 2005)

gdoggmoney said:


> _Quote, originally posted by *kkkustom* »_
> Exactly what i have. the N75 was unplugged, and i got a cel I put it back in and tucked it away out of sight. I still have VVT installed and enabled.
> I think there are more reasons as to why some adapt and some dont. I think maybe the software release dates maybe, but I would assume that uni would chime in and say "anything prior to this date needs this or that". so maybe thats not the case.
> 
> Likely it is done by ECU code. Even though different codes may run the same firmware/flash, they may have a different PCB design/logic which requires the completion of the circuits to function.


I can confirm that adaption still works on my Unitronic 630 software that has the deleted files with no resistors installed.


----------

