# 1991 Corrado -G60 Engine Knock



## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

*1991 Corrado -G60 Engine Knock Driveway Queen at the moment - Rebuilt Thread after PhotoBucket Bad Business Model*

Inspect cylinder #1 & #2 with borescope trying to figure out where the knock is coming from when weather clears tomorrow. Compression test on all cylinders, verify timing. Previous owner had the head done so need to verify workmanship of the valve job and ensure that PO line up everything with TDC. Rebuild the supercharger. Also ordered all gaskets and fluids when we tear down the engine. Car runs but make no power so lots to look at and test.

Edit: Before it was put away for two years


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Sounds fun. Low power from a G60 can be a lot of things, so verifying timing and compression is a good start. 

Do you know if any bottom end work was done? I'm not sure I'd stop with only a head refresh on a 25 year old motor. 

Let us know what you find.:beer:


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

mateok said:


> Sounds fun. Low power from a G60 can be a lot of things, so verifying timing and compression is a good start.
> 
> Do you know if any bottom end work was done? I'm not sure I'd stop with only a head refresh on a 25 year old motor.
> 
> Let us know what you find.:beer:


Looked into cylinders with borescope, found no marking on the piston, compression test 150 psi across all cylinders. Verified timing the camshaft sprocket was out by two teeth. Forgot to mention that oil idiot light comes on as well. No bottom end work was done. Which is why I've decided to pull the engine out and go through all of it. Not trusting any work that the PO did, reason the head was rebuilt is because someone told him that this would fix his misfiring issue, turn out to be distributor (no kiding Einstein) :facepalm:. I'm suspecting possible wrist pin? Your thoughts? I'll post some pictures when I've got it torn apart. One bonus item the PO gave me is the VW Factory Repair Manual


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## Butcher (Jan 31, 2001)

If you have the engine apart, I for certain would suspect con rod bushings. With low oil pressure, I would also replace all the bearings including the intermediate shaft bearings.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Butcher said:


> If you have the engine apart, I for certain would suspect con rod bushings. With low oil pressure, I would also replace all the bearings including the intermediate shaft bearings.


Thanks for the input, that what the plan is.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Bit of progress today, got the car up on jacks, tagged the wiring, removed the front end.



Rad support has a bit of rust but will clean up nicely.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Slowly started ordering replacement parts:

New belt tensioner dampener, previous owner (below) solution to adding more tension:


Replacing the plastic coolant flanges:




Replacing all of the motor mounts since looks like there the original mounts:


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Removed the rest of the bolts and components engine is ready to come out


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Man, that damper is insulting. It's not supposed to be maxed out like that. That puts stress on every bearing on every spinning bit.


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## lowburb (May 14, 2005)

Where does one find the aluminum replacement parts? I've had the plastic strand me...


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## mateok (Mar 14, 2001)

Are you talking about the flanges? Hans Auto Parts sells the old MK1 flanges. You'll need to tap one of the ports and get the sensors (gauge & CTS). 

Plastic is fine as long as you get it from the dealer and use RTV instead of the supplied o-ring. The mating surface is no longer pristine and the aftermarket plastic is garbage. 

I've put thousands of those on cars over the years and torque is critical. People over-tighten the bolts because they don't want it to leak and end up warping/cracking it resulting in the very scenario they were trying to prevent.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

mateok said:


> Are you talking about the flanges? Hans Auto Parts sells the old MK1 flanges. You'll need to tap one of the ports and get the sensors (gauge & CTS).


Yes that where I purchased it from and thanks for the info.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Engine out and on the engine stand:



[

Further progress will have to wait till I get back from work in 10 days.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Purchased a replacement exhaust manifold, mine had too many striped stud holes or my liking. Purchased from a member!

Update: Picked it up today, great replacement part!


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Picked up parts in Massena NY today:



From Ebay:
Coolant Temperature Sensor (White) Part#035919369M
Coolant Temperature Sensor (Blue) Part#0280130026-770
Belt Tensioner Damper SACHS #SG401008
Double Gauge Pod for Center Console Cuddy Hole - From UK

From DubNutz:

Crank Pulley Bolt Part #N90320802
Girling Front Caliper Rebuild Kit Part #431 698 471 
Girling Rear Caliper Rebuild Kit Part # 8D0 698 671
Hood release cable sleeves right/left Part # 535823555

From HausAutoparts:

Aluminum Coolant Flange Front of the Engine Part #026121133C/D/F Hose Flange

Engine tear down within the next few days. :thumbup:


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Picked up a G60 68mm Autotech pulley and a water pump pulley from a Vortex member in Ottawa (my backyard), well turn out I found G60 heaven. 



This guy is an engineer and a G60 enthusiast, has his own personal stash of G60 engines and parts tucked behind his automotive parts manufacturing warehouse. I know that there are better engine than the G60, but the uniqueness (which is the attraction for me, everyone else does the engine swap) of this setup is taking what works G60 (when properly maintained) and making it better with more flow through the engine (16 or 20 valve head). Tried to work out a deal on this 20V. G60 that he built for a customer and bought it back. But unfortunately it's not for sale was his first build for a customer and kind of sentimental about keeping it. 

He also has 4 brand new AEB blocked for a very reasonable price plus tons of other parts, he's also a Mahle piston distributor. One stop shop for G60 parts LOL!


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Bought two brand new (0-Kms) AEB blocks (not the one in the photo LOL) with the crankshaft and intermittent shaft installed in them. One will be to rebuild the PG engine, stock conrods and piston will fit in the AEB block, a AEG head gasket is required to fit the PG 8v head, a hole is drill thru the block at one of the thread bolt holes for the G60 oil return and were good to go. 



Second block is for a 20V. 1.8L G60 build. Also purchased a DRS oil pan for this build.


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## CrankWorkOrange (Mar 15, 2004)

How's the body\interior? I was thinking about checking this car out; it was up for sale on kijiji for close to two years!

Either way, I'm glad to see u're saving it! Such rare colour too! :thumbup::beer:


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

CrankWorkOrange said:


> How's the body\interior? I was thinking about checking this car out; it was up for sale on kijiji for close to two years!
> 
> Either way, I'm glad to see u're saving it! Such rare colour too! :thumbup::beer:


The interior has only one issue and that the driver seat leatherette has a tear but the rest of the interior just needs a good cleaning/steaming. As for the body the one major rust spot is one of the rocker panels, was pushed in when his wife ran over a snow bank but it isn't rusted through, any other rust areas are all paint chips with minimal rust.







Car was advertised as stock and for the most part it is, no hacked wiring (wiring harness is in amazing shape for the year of the car) just some deleted components. I also got all of maintenance paperwork, and the last invoice was in 2012 so car was put away sometime after that. As for the paint it was stored under a large pine tree and the pine sap has imbedded itself into the paint so it will need a repaint.



Sunroof, spoiler all works, ABS brakes has been deleted, bent front driver side wheel most likely when she hit the snow bank. The car was Krown rust proofed at one point and I believe what has preserved the body so well. Rain tray moldings are in the rear but at pretty weathered haven't had a chance to see how they fix and look reinstalled. NLA from VW but there's a guy in Europe that sell a knock off replacement, pricey but available.

As for the colour I was going to do a colour change but decided against it when I did more research it is as you mention a rare colour for these car.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

I couldn't resist came across this on Facebook this morning, thought it was fitting so I ordered one LOL


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Pick up my parts from Issam Abed (Iabed Industries) in Ottawa today, two AEB block, DRS oil pan, AEB valve cover, header for the AEB head. He also has a brand new AEB head that I'm try to work a deal on. http://iabedindustries.com/

[





One of the blocks is going to be used to replace the PG block all of the internals piston, conrods, oil pump and distributor fit on the AEB block, a few mods are required for the g-lader oil return, g-ladder mounting bracket needs custom plate, turbo oil supply blocked and a AEG head gasket to fit the 8V head to the block, head gasket also seals off three oil journals that aren't used with this head.

Second block for a 1.8L 20V G60 build.


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## CrankWorkOrange (Mar 15, 2004)

updates? :beer:


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

CrankWorkOrange said:


> updates? :beer:


Sorry been slacking off on the updates :laugh:

Took the engine apart to see why it was knocking

Cylinder #4 bearing is MIA:
[

Crankshaft is toast, it also has a tight spot when spun:


Bearing from cylinder 2 & 1




Previous owner had supplied me with all of the receipts for part and work done to the car, when going thru it showed the block had been bored 2mm so for a 83mm piston that was confirmed also. So this pistons won't fit in the AEB block (81mm).

DSC09877 by Jack Landry, on Flickr


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Here are a few mods that will be required in order to use the AEB block and G-ladder:

Block off crank sensor, this won't be used on the 8V. G60 build, but will be using the crank sensor with the standalone Megasquirt for the 20V. G60 build



Drill thru the block and tap for AN fitting - this will be oil return for the G-ladder supercharger:


Install frost plug in crank vent hole:


Modify the rear G-ladder support bracket to fit in this area:

Thanks Shawn Dezego for the photo

Machine flat, the back of the G-ladder bracket and fabricate a plate to the shape of the crank vent opening:

Thanks to Shawn DeZego for the photo

Drill and tap the rear G-ladder bracket and plate for a AN12 line that will be ran to the supercharger return line for additional oiling of the G60. Here what it looks like installed


Thanks to Shawn DeZego for the photo


Also got a BBM Stage 4 ECU, 268/260 camshaft, 3 Bar FPR from a guy in St-Catherines:
[


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## Butcher (Jan 31, 2001)

Nice pictures of #4. So was there oil in the engine? How's the pistons look? What pistons are they? Forged? Maker?


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Butcher said:


> Nice pictures of #4. So was there oil in the engine? How's the pistons look? What pistons are they? Forged? Maker?


Yes there was oil in the engine but oil light and buzzer on, little to no oil pressure, Piston look fine so does rings and bore, damage was done to conrod bearings. Not sure what the make of pistons, I still want to remove the crank bearing and have a look at those. At work for another weeks I'll post finding in the new year.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

When I removed the oversize pistons from the PG block thought that the bottom skirt had came in contact with the oil squirters but looking closer looks like they may have been ground at the JE before delivery. They are all ground the same and seems at the same angle as well


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## CrankWorkOrange (Mar 15, 2004)

northendroid said:


> Previous owner had supplied me with all of the receipts for part and work done to the car, when going thru it showed the block had been bored 2mm so for a 83mm piston that was confirmed also. So this pistons won't fit in the AEB block (81mm).


Why not bore the AEB block out to 83mm? It would bring the displacement to 1.9 also, I believe.

:beer::thumbup:


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

CrankWorkOrange said:


> Why not bore the AEB block out to 83mm? It would bring the displacement to 1.9 also, I believe.
> 
> :beer::thumbup:


I've been debating that since the piston are in good shape and I've got another set of stock conrods. Need to contact JE for a set of piston rings.


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## rhussjr (Aug 7, 2000)

northendroid said:


> When I removed the oversize pistons from the PG block though that the bottom skirt had came in contact with the oil squirters but looking closer looks like they may have been ground at the JE before delivery. They are all ground the same and seems at the same angle as well


Pistons were notched after JE made them as they are an early set (no part number lasered etched on them skirt boss is one indication). I suggest that you consider (if you can afford it) getting a new set that will work with 144mm rods. The motor will rev smoother and if you bump the compression up to 9:1 (from 8:1), you will reduce the load on the supercharger and require less boost to make the same power. The motor will perform better off boost with the higher compression ratio. SNS in Georgia use to tune for this years ago and many of the G60 guys switched to the 144mm rod and piston combo around 2001-2002.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

rhussjr said:


> Pistons were notched after JE made them as they are an early set (no part number lasered etched on them skirt boss is one indication). I suggest that you consider (if you can afford it) getting a new set that will work with 144mm rods. The motor will rev smoother and if you bump the compression up to 9:1 (from 8:1), you will reduce the load on the supercharger and require less boost to make the same power. The motor will perform better off boost with the higher compression ratio. SNS in Georgia use to tune for this years ago and many of the G60 guys switched to the 144mm rod and piston combo around 2001-2002.


Thanks for the info, I'm going to stick with the stock pistons with the 136mm rods for the 1.8L 8V G60 build, but will be going to the 9:1 pistons and 144mm rods in my second build 1.8L 20V G60.
Started cleaning the internals to be swapped into the brand new AEB block. Soak the pistons in Berryman Carburetor & Parts Cleaner for 24hrs carbon wiped right off, re-soaked for another 24hrs, all piston ring grooves are squeaky clean. Top of the piston not perfect but lot better then what I started with


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Clean carbon on the other three pistons, took the G-lader apart no play in the bearings,cleaning the internal surfaces and inspected for damage and hairline cracks, all good


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

This is getting better and better with every post


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Thanks, heading to my local bearing shop and see if I can source the following for G-Lader rebuild. I'd rather start fresh and know what been replaced in the G-lader.

Viton Seals:

1 x NAK TCY 20.35.7V
1 x NAK TBGV 30.52.6V
1 x NAK TGR 30.45.6V
2 x NAK TGH1 30.42.5.5/6V

Bearings:

1 x F-A-G NU202E M1A Outlet Port
1 x F-A-G 6003 2Z C3 Front Intermittent Shaft 
1 x F-A-G 6002C 2HRS C3 Rear Intermittent Shaft
1 x F-A-G 6304 C3 Inlet Port
1 x Torrington 10 689A Displacer 
1 x F-A-G 310 74336 (small bearing on displacer)

Will follow up with availability and pricing.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Found a MK1 TT AWU intake manifold for the 1.8L 20V G60 build. Guy also had the phenolic intake manifold transition spacer.

Will need blasting and repaint:








Next item to find is a OBD-1 ABA throttle body.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Bought an AWU intake manifold for my AEB 1.8L G60 20V build, it came with phenolic transition gasket but was missing the small port metal gasket is #058129717D the correct part number?

Stripped:








Prepped:








Baking in the Oven :laugh:


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Not pleased on how it turned out, stripping it and starting over minus the wrinkle paint.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Picked these up tonight in Ottawa from a Vortex member , Eibach Pro-Kit
















Thanks Seb!


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Found a 02A to 02J conversion kit from a Vortex member. Bit of clean and lubrication and should be good to go. Perfect time to do this while the engine out.  










Got the timing pulley cleaned and painted, just need to do the same to the intermittent shaft pulley.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Got the BBM 268/260 camshaft changed out and the FPR. Also put the chipped ECU back in the car.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Buddy of mine offered me a set of 15" x 6" Sebrings at my favourite price (free LOL), I just got to get them from Alberta to Ontario though.









Looking to do a custom lip to them:
















Also going to need center caps.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

I lucked out on the wheel getting them for free from a co-worker :beer: , now I've got another co-worker driving back to NFLD next month and is going to drop them off for me :thumbup:


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Picked up a 02A tranny from a 16V Passat, has a better gear ratio then the stock tranny. Bonus got a newer starter (which I needed) and another clutch with on 6,000 KM on it. The drawback was it was an 16hrs road trip to go get it in Windsor, Ontario.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Pick up the Neuspeed Strut Bar from Vortex member VRT. These were made for the VR6 but it will clear the G60 intake manifold with a bit of tweaking.

[


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Ordered parts today so I can start putting the internals back together, new OEM conrod bolts, new oil pump, new water pump, oil pump priming tool, clutch alignment tool, rebuild kit for the 02J shifter plus a bunch of misc. parts.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Parts came in today just waiting on piston ring gap tool


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Christmas in April


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

sdezego said:


> Christmas in April


Yeah you bet Santa got year round gig :biggrinsanta: Shawn when you installed your short shifter, you used the Polo shifter housing correct? Did you get the Diesel Geek short shifter or did you upgrade the bushing on the tranny end and cable support bracket (3 of them)? I've got the MK4 setup (just like new) which calls for cutting the tunnel for it to fit and I'm ok with that (can't bring myself to spend $145.00 (close to $200.00 CND) for just the Polo housing from ECS) In one of the 02A to 02J thread the op hacked up the tunnel when he cut it, used a bunch of washer as spacer on the support bolts for the front of the shifter assembly and elongated the rear mounting hole. I know that once everything back together no one going to see it but I just can't bring myself to doing something like that (little OCD I guess). Think I've got it figured out going to use 16g. sheet metal for the rear, weld two bolts to so it line up with the rear MK4 holes then weld the 16g piece to the tunnel bracket, for the front I'm going to use aluminum square stock, drill and tap to utilize the existing bolt in the MK4 shifter assembly then drill a new hole in the tunnel (front) mark the square stock, drill and tap. Going to make a cardboard template of the MK4 outline to make the tunnel prior to cutting. I know the Polo shifter a a direct bolt on and this is more work but I'm ok with this. Going post photo when I install it.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

I don't have the short shifter. I have the whole 02m 6 Speed trans, shifter etc with the stock shift arms and weight on trans. I did, however, buy the Polo housing for the 02m shifter (same as 02j for all intensive purposes). Before I found the Polo box, there have been many people that modified the 02j/02m housing and either made a Bezel, used washers etc. As l,ong as you create a nice fit, so Ex heat doesn't travel up your good.

ECS is expensive on that. For the 3 pieces I think I paid about 100 shipped from UK. For me it was a no brainer, but had a friend there hook me up.

Here is one of the original threads: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3344454-02J-Shift-Box-Cables-and-Shift-Tower-retrofit-into-onto-an-02A-lots-of-pics


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Removed the intermittent shaft pulley from the PG block to test fit onto the AEB block, turn out that the PG pulley needs machining to add a keyway will since the intermittent of the AEB pulley has the keyway built into the pulley. All part of a hybrid build.
PG on the left - AEB on the right









Close up of the AEB pulley









AEB intermittent shaft keyway is cut right thru the shaft.
[


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Wheels on their way from Alberta to Ontario, co-worker on his way to NFLD and will drop them off on the way by.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

More parts arrived for the Corrado:
Prothane Bushing Kit (new still in box from Vortex Member)
Center Caps for the Sebring Wheels
Diesel Geek - MK4 Shifter, Side to Side Bushings, Side to Side Super Slider
Phenix Engineering - MK4 Shifter Bracket Bushings
Piston Ring Gap tool - Can start putting internals back together


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Prepped and painted 02A shift tower and the shift cable support bracket, install new bushings, slider and tower shaft seal.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

More progress on the Rado.
Yesterday I built a ghetto engine lift out of 2 x4, 2 x6 with a 1 ton cable puller :screwy: to change out the old PG block with the new AEB block on the engine stand, while I had the AEB block on the lift installed the flywheel and used my flywheel lock tool and got the AEB crank bolt loose.
Safely on the engine stand without hurting myself or others LOL!









Had a stripped allen bolt that holds the harmonic pulley/power steering pump pulley to the crank pulley, bolt the assembly onto the AEB block, drove a torxs bit into it held back the crankshaft at the opposite end and was able to break away the bolt :beer:









Installed the pistons into the AEB block:

[









All went well till I got to piston#4, notice the rod bearing cap was fitting right when I snug up the bolts prior to checking bearing clearance. Remove the piston only to find the skirt on the opposite side of the oil squirters now has a chip broken off *banghead* .The PG block doesn't have an impulse wheel so I know need to remove the crankshaft, impulse wheel and re-install everything. I'll be looking for another stock 81mm PG piston and some new cap bolts as well. Another hiccup in the hybrid build


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Ordered main bearing bolts. M10x65 Part# N10263801 and ARP conrod bolts.










Will also need to get the big end of the conrod re-hone as per ARP instructions:


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## specialagentperry (Nov 19, 2015)

Corrado's are such a cool car


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

specialagentperry said:


> Corrado's are such a cool car


I agree but there also a big commitment ($$$) if you went to get reliable (25yrs old car). I do like the body style :heart:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Yes, Big end resize/hone is a must with ARP Rod Bolts. 

When you press them in, you will see that they don;t fit like the factory bolt. On first hone pass, you can see where the first hit of the stones start sizing the sides of the rod.

It's funny though how people will say, I never resized the rods after changing the rod bolts, and have never had a problem  Little do they know, they had excessive wear on the first few starts and just got lucky they didn't seize.

I have replaced the stock bolts in the car w/o resizing, but used factory, made sure the grooves lined up and then pulled them down.

Looks like you are doing things the proper way, so :thumbup:


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

sdezego said:


> Yes, Big end resize/hone is a must with ARP Rod Bolts.
> 
> When you press them in, you will see that they don;t fit like the factory bolt. On first hone pass, you can see where the first hit of the stones start sizing the sides of the rod.
> 
> ...


Thanks Shawn it's actually your post in another thread explaining the distortion, is the main reasons I'm getting this done. I appreciated the info and feedback.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Dropped off the conrods and ARP bolt at the machine shop to re-size. Got the impulse wheel removed and everything retorqued.




















Got the stripped allen bolt loose on last days off but hadn't looked at the harmonic balancer, like I expected 25yrs old rubber is cracked so be replacing that as well.









Any suggestions? Fluidampr?

*Update: Found a solution through iAbed Industries, Issam will fabricate a P/S pulley for a new 1.8T pulley/damper.*


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Still waiting for the Conrod to get back from machine shop so prepped a bunch of parts for paint yesterday and today got the cylinder head prepped and painted. Using my wind driven side draft paint booth:









My drying area:










Cylinder head primed two coats of VHT etching primer, tried VHT Aluminum but wasn't a big fan of how it looked, so doing two coats of VHT Titanium Silver Blue then two coats of VHT clear coat.
Primered:

















Yesterday took the alternator apart to see if it was worth rebuilding, ordered new bearing, voltage regulator and slip rings for 



















Also ordered two idler pulley from the UK was the cheapest I could find.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Nice balance. Primer, clean pool. Paint, rinse off overspray while in pool. Add 2nd coat of paint, check pool chemistry, beer & sandwich in floating pool chair. Clean up, prep the barbie to motivate for next items on the Corrado checklist.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

petethepug said:


> Nice balance. Primer, clean pool. Paint, rinse off overspray while in pool. Add 2nd coat of paint, check pool chemistry, beer & sandwich in floating pool chair. Clean up, prep the barbie to motivate for next items on the Corrado checklist.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


:thumbup::beer:


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Installed new coolant flanges, new "O" rings, clips and cleaned up the temp sensors. Cleaned up the fuel rail, injectors and bracketing. Finished painting the valve cover and put it all back together ready to install on the block.










Temp sensors corrosion removed:


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

So got the conrods back from the machine shop today, started with piston 4 this time around since that one had the issue of the piston hitting the impulse wheel. Well the impulse wheel is out but now the piston is hitting the oil squirter.










So removed the crankshaft and measured what I need to clear the oil squirter measurement is 4.63mm


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

The oil squirter clearance issue in piston #4 is because it sits lower the the other three cylinders.


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## Butcher (Jan 31, 2001)

So what's your game plan, shim the oil squirter or trim all the pistons [to make them all the same weight]?


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

It will be shimming the oil squirters it only cylinder 4 all the other clear. 


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

northendroid said:


> ...
> 
> Looking to do a custom lip to them:
> 
> .


Check out this thread:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?8713706-I-went-to-a-Corrado-Club-Deutschland-Treffen-and-brought-my-camera&p=106235290&posted=1#post106235290


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

sdezego said:


> Check out this thread:
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?8713706-I-went-to-a-Corrado-Club-Deutschland-Treffen-and-brought-my-camera&p=106235290&posted=1#post106235290


Thanks Shawn for the link some awesome Rado's 

Nice to see another car with those modded wheels:


Also had found this photo with Sebrings:








Man and the body work done on this wide body is exceptional: (except for the rear wing - to ricier for my liking)


The G60 toss is an interesting one as well :laugh:

Be a good game to setup with crossbar to measure height at a Corrado/Vw meet.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Fixed all my photo's in this thread today what a pain.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Picked up some the parts today from INA for my G-lader rebuild, seals, bearing, Apex strips, lube.









Picked up the G-lader oil return line, banjo fittings, custom hose adapter from 8mm bolt to AN-2



















Custom adapter will fit into where I've drilled through the block for the G-lader oil return


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

I purchased a cheap bench top sandblaster and some glass bead media. Not 100% where I want it but in time I'll get the parts looking almost new. Two halves of the G-lader:


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Well got the Corrado a buddy  Going to drive this until I get the Corrado on the road.
1998 GTI VR6 not perfect but nice solid car, two small rust spot one by the driver's mirror the other on the hood from rock chip, everything else is rust free. Done recently rotors and pads, wheel bearings, ball joints, poly bushing on all but strut towers those are TT's, serpentine belt/tensioner, O2 sensor, new windshield, window regulator, motor mounts, water pump, timing chain. Everything electrical work with the exception of the cruise control. Needs fluids service, new wheels/tires, rear passenger side ABS sensor. Tranny is good no grinding but long throws so that will need attention, motor 242,000 kms but runs strong, came with ST Coilovers, 25mm sway bar. Interior is mint no tears. It was originally a BC (British Columbia) car so didn't see much snow, it's been well maintained/regular services.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Picked up some 3-Piece Mille Miglia MM300 17x8 and 8.5, 5x100 - 5x112 adapters 15mm/20mm for the MK3 Yokohama S-Drives, traded the Bentley's with a Vortex member from Ottawa.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Those are REALLY nice looking wheels. 

I am sure you are aware, but no way you are going to get those 8.5 (with any spacer), in the rear with out rolling the lip and pulling the fenders a tad.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

sdezego said:


> Those are REALLY nice looking wheels.
> 
> I am sure you are aware, but no way you are going to get those 8.5 (with any spacer), in the rear with out rolling the lip and pulling the fenders a tad.


Picked up the GTI today in Levis, Quebec, was a little anxious about driving a 19yrs old car that I haven't maintained 365 km's, did the pre trip check, tire pressure, oil, powered steering,coolant levels. Fuel it with 91 Octane and went for it, really pleased with the car, no issues on it's first trip. Some general fixes are required to pass the safety, wiper blades, horn doesn't work, CEL was told it was passenger rear ABS sensor, needs wheel alignment and new tires (that's covered). Nail down some rattles, as previously mentioned the long throw in the shifter got to go. Next couple days will be going through it making a parts list. Some body molding need attending to and some require replacement. Swing by body shop to see what can be done about the rust spots. I do like the VR6 exhaust note it is SWEET!

Yeah Shawn going to flip the wheel tomorrow and see what need to be done to get them fitted properly.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

northendroid said:


> .. I do like the VR6 exhaust note it is SWEET!
> 
> Yeah Shawn going to flip the wheel tomorrow and see what need to be done to get them fitted properly.


Yes indeed. Being a 4cyl VW guy since the age of time, I have to agree. I had one VR that I got in a swap that had to be parted. When I started it in the drive and rev'ed it gave me a new outlook just by noise alone 


Yea, 8.5 are doable in some cases (perfect offset, no spacers and proper tires). BBS CH's (which is what I have to go on mine when the new motor/trans finally go in) are an absolute max. They are 8.5x17 with 35 offset and no spacers.

G60 Body in the rear also have an extra wide inside lip/roll as compared to the VR. I trimmed mine to the width of the VR years back, but even with that, I know I will have to do more for the CHs..

Convert to 112


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

sdezego said:


> Yea, 8.5 are doable in some cases (perfect offset, no spacers and proper tires). BBS CH's (which is what I have to go on mine when the new motor/trans finally go in) are an absolute max. They are 8.5x17 with 35 offset and no spacers.


So got the wheels on the MK3 as you mention going to need to do some fine tuning to eliminate the rubbing on large bumps.  But REALLY like the look it give the MK3. Had to use the spacer/wheel adapters 5 x100 - 5 x112. What would it take to do a 5 x112 wheel conversion? Hub redrill than new rotors?


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Had to fix the horn in the GTI for upcoming safety it turn be being steering wheel clock spring contacts, was full of dirt and grime no contact was being made. Cleaned the contacts with contact cleaner tweaked the contact upper a bit. all works:


















Next is getting ABS sensors to clear the CEL.

Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 3A0-907-379.lbl
Part No: 3A0 907 379 E
Component: ABS/EDS ITTAE 20 GI V00 
Coding: 03704
Shop #: WSC 00000 
VCID: 2C572FADDC73802165-4A84

2 Faults Found:
00290 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Left (G46)
35-00 - -
00287 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Right (G44)
35-00 - -


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

ohh thought you were putting those on the Corrado. They do like absolutely fantastic on the Mk3. That is an amazing looking wheel.


To go to 112 it is a bit problematic. Mostly the rear, since all 112 were Mk4+ and they no longer used the same Stub and bearing setup. The bigger issue is the caliper mount for the rear. It can all be done, but would require quite a bit of machine work and welding, etc. I have not seen a simple elegant solution yet (not that I looked that hard). I suppose if I had found those wheels, I would have a solution by morning :laugh:


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

sdezego said:


> ohh thought you were putting those on the Corrado. They do like absolutely fantastic on the Mk3. That is an amazing looking wheel.
> 
> 
> To go to 112 it is a bit problematic. Mostly the rear, since all 112 were Mk4+ and they no longer used the same Stub and bearing setup. The bigger issue is the caliper mount for the rear. It can all be done, but would require quite a bit of machine work and welding, etc. I have not seen a simple elegant solution yet (not that I looked that hard). I suppose if I had found those wheels, I would have a solution by morning :laugh:


LOL the guy that had them was running them on his Corrado. Like you mentioned rolled and pulled to fit. I'm really pleased with the look, stance and fitment. Still need to do a bit of tweaking to prevent rubbing. Thanks for the 5x112 info so be sticking to the wheel adapters.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Searching though the wheel/tire classified, I just remembered whose wheels those were.... Formerly Golfatron. I remember seeing them on his Corrado.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

sdezego said:


> Searching though the wheel/tire classified, I just remembered whose wheels those were.... Formerly Golfatron. I remember seeing them on his Corrado.


Yup you got it, he now goes by CorradoJesus, he was only an hour away from my home town so easy meet and swap wheels. Brought the GTI for a pre-safety today, they failed the wheels (which I was for warn when I booked the appointment) the Ontario Ministry of Transportation is cracking down on car with wheel poke and fender clearance (lowered). I've borrow a set of 15" wheels get by this fail, also need to replace outer tie rod end on passenger side, rear license plate light, wiper blades, rear rotor and pads and right front hose support bracket needs to be secured. All parts are ordered and some on there way. 

Corrado update:

Got the pistons 4 clearance issue with oil squirter solved, oil pump, oil pan, water pump and cylinder head installed.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Finally got my Sebring wheel for the Corrado that a co-worker donated to the build. Another co-worker agreed to dropped them off to me, they want from Calgary to Nova Scotia (was to late at night when he drove by my place), then from Nova Scotia to Ontario.










This is the plan for this wheels adding a polished lip


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Yeah yeaaa! Another, tastefully done, bit of g60 love. 


Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

petethepug said:


> Yeah yeaaa! Another, tastefully done, bit of g60 love.
> 
> 
> Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


Thanks Pete, I've got more parts I need to pick up from Issam @ iAbed Industries:

Front G60 mounting bracket (machined for wide belt)
Rear G60 mount (modified for the AEB block)
G60 Wide Belt
Intermittent Shaft Pulley (modified to fit AEB intermittent shaft)
Crankshaft Pulley c/w power steering puilley

I need to install 14mm frost plugs in three of the engine oil journals on the AEB block since I'll be installing the PG 8V head.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Also received my rain gutter mouldings c/w plastic ends from Vortex member Karmannski in Poland. Great aftermarket replacement since these NLA part.


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## GTI-POWER (Aug 12, 2016)

*any updates lately?*

love seeing this build/project! some good progress is being made!
any updates lately?


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

GTI-POWER said:


> love seeing this build/project! some good progress is being made!
> any updates lately?



Thanks!
Not lately been busy with home renovations. Going to pick up more supercharger parts from iABEDIndustries on Monday. Should be more progress in the new year.


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## GTI-POWER (Aug 12, 2016)

northendroid said:


> Thanks!
> Not lately been busy with home renovations. Going to pick up more supercharger parts from iABEDIndustries on Monday. Should be more progress in the new year.


goodluck with the renovation!
sounds good, I guess we will all be patiently waiting for more great updates!


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Haven't posted anything in quite a while, pick up from iAbed Industries a custom g-ladder rear support bracket that fits on a AEB block. Still need to finish up some grinding and media blast it.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Wow, that is a really cool piece that Issam made! Good dude who has done great things for the old school VW's even though demand is micro sized.

...also making some great products for later models.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

sdezego said:


> Wow, that is a really cool piece that Issam made! Good dude who has done great things for the old school VW's even though demand is micro sized.
> 
> ...also making some great products for later models.


Totally agree Issam is cool dude and I'm thankful for the parts he does make for our older models, this are done out of passion more then profit driven.


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## gereonb (Mar 2, 2017)

Nice work fellow.
I am slowly gathering G60 parts to build a completely stock G60 PG engine to put in my MK1 Rabbit Cabriolet.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

gereonb said:


> Nice work fellow.
> I am slowly gathering G60 parts to build a completely stock G60 PG engine to put in my MK1 Rabbit Cabriolet.


Nice if your looking for new or used parts give Issam a go. 


[email protected]


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Wait!? REAR mount g lader bracket for a 1.8T / AEB block, oh brotha, this build is getting fun.



northendroid said:


> custom g-ladder rear support bracket that fits on a AEB block.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

petethepug said:


> Wait!? REAR mount g lader bracket for a 1.8T / AEB block, oh brotha, this build is getting fun.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yeah thanks looking forward to getting back into the project this summer!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

petethepug said:


> Wait!? REAR mount g lader bracket for a 1.8T / AEB block, oh brotha..


...with a breatha


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

petethepug said:


> Wait!? REAR mount g lader bracket for a 1.8T / AEB block, oh brotha, this build is getting fun.





sdezego said:


> ...with a breatha


Not for you two Corrado wizards but for people who aren't quite sure what that costume back all about. Replaces this modified bracket:




It installs in this location of the engine:




I'd brought the rear OEM support bracket for Issam to mod, but when he sent me the CAD drawing of the custom bracket I just had to have one. I'm a sucker for unique stuff.


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