# 09A Need To Change Solenoids - Large Photo Of Valve Body



## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

I need to change all the solenoids on my sons 2003 1.8T Jetta that has the 5 speed Tiptonic trans. I have enclosed a photo of a valve body. In looking at the body it appears some of the solenoids blocks other solenoids from being removed.

Update: There is a sequence to the order of how you change out these solenoids. Photos and explanations of what solenoids need to be chageout first in this thread.


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## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

Found what each solenoid is,


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

there's no particular order for removing and assembly.
You will need to remove N91 in order to remove N90.......also N283 and N282 are removed together.


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## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

I am not sure I will be able to pull this off. I have really big hands and forearms. I am confident I can do the job but physically I am not due to the tight area.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

See this thread...this guy pulled the transmission to the back of the car to gain some room at the front.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1521077-Solenoid-Change-09A-Tiptronic

You can also remove the front of the car....is fast and easy and you will get a lot of room to do this solenoid work. You don't have to remove the radiator and A/C condenser....just the bumper, head lights and radiator frame.....you will spend less than 20 minutes removing the front components.


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## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

carfreak01 said:


> See this thread...this guy pulled the transmission to the back of the car to gain some room at the front.
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1521077-Solenoid-Change-09A-Tiptronic
> 
> You can also remove the front of the car....is fast and easy and you will get a lot of room to do this solenoid work. You don't have to remove the radiator and A/C condenser....just the bumper, head lights and radiator frame.....you will spend less than 20 minutes removing the front components.


Thanks... I had already copied this and printed this out over the weekend. Still don't know what fluid to use as I do not want to pay the local VW over priced crap. So many people in these forums have used other fluids but I am on the ropes. Been reading but have yet to find a fluid that they claim can be used...


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

The fluid thing for the 09A is really tricky.....a lot of people have tried different fluids with good results....but I haven't find yet an actual replacement for the VW fluid.
You can try and look for something similar and give it a try but it will be risky.

I used VW's ultra expensive ATF, I didn't have the guts to try something different.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

With it in the car there is a order. You also want to structure what you do as you can misplace peices then wonder where they go as you reassemble. 

I've done many of these but dont have the process memorized. 

You do want to remove some to get to others, but overall you want to remove one at a time and then reinstall so that you dont forget where stuff goes.

Document what you do in case someone else asks this then you can be the hero.


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## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

Thanks guys... I am going to order the solenoids on Friday when I get back to Tucson. Will order from Cobra Transmissions. I think the set was $311.00 with an included gasket. I plan to do one at a time and just for giggles will have a video camera on if I can.


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## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

Got my son to go to Autozone so they could pull the codes from the car. Just recently the engine has been stalling in traffic. The codes that were pulled were, P0733, P0322, and P0732. I suspect the P0322 must be a sensor at the crankcase and needs to be replaced and the other two codes are the transmission. He has parked the Jetta until I replace all the solenoids due to wanting to shift out of 1st gear.


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

AzViper said:


> Got my son go to Autozone so they could pull the codes from the car. Just recently the engine has been stalling in traffic. The codes that were pulled were, P0733, P0322, and P0732. I suspect the P0322 must be a sensor at the crankcase and needs to be replaced and the other two codes are the transmission. He has parked the Jetta until I replace all the solenoids due to wanting to shift out of 1st gear.


 For future reference, codes are explained here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Category:Fault_Codes 

Yes, P0322 refers to G28, aka engine speed sensor, aka crank position sensor. It's on the front of the block near the bell housing. Though usually it causes problems starting when it goes bad, not dying in traffic. 

Other codes are 'incorrect ratio'. That is, the TCM and/or the ECU determine the engine is going too fast for the indicated road speed and the gear that the tranny is in. Or at least the gear that the TCM *thinks* the tranny is in. This can be caused by a sticking solenoid: the TCM commands a shift, and does not get any over or under current conditions, but in reality a solenoid sticks and does not shift. It can also be caused by wear on the frictions and other real mechanical problms in the transmission, so solenoids *might* not solve your problem. 

Could also be something as simple as low fluid level. I'd stick to the VW fluid.


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

AzViper said:


> I am not sure I will be able to pull this off. I have really big hands and forearms. I am confident I can do the job but physically I am not. I am 6' 4" and have a 60 inch chest, and big shoulders. I have raced top fuel hydros, Baja 1000 a number of times. I am just a large guy who has a son that needs my help.


 Well, if it's his car (and assuming he has skinnier arms), get him to do the work under your guidance while you drink beer


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## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

Charlie_M said:


> For future reference, codes are explained here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Category:Fault_Codes
> 
> Yes, P0322 refers to G28, aka engine speed sensor, aka crank position sensor. It's on the front of the block near the bell housing. Though usually it causes problems starting when it goes bad, not dying in traffic.
> 
> ...


 The Jetta was shifting AOK up until just a few weeks ago. No signs of and fluid leaking. Going to change the solenoids and go from there.


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## ExSailor (Aug 3, 2012)

I'm about to do the same thing in my 2003 1.8. Which solenoid replacement kit did you purchase? I don't want to buy the wrong one and I'm pretty new to VW.


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## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

ExSailor said:


> I'm about to do the same thing in my 2003 1.8. Which solenoid replacement kit did you purchase? I don't want to buy the wrong one and I'm pretty new to VW.


 
http://cobratransmission.com/index....fo&cPath=1_945_947_978_987&products_id=803021


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## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

Went to my local VW dealer after reading in these forums for weeks. I had decided to buy the VW ATF fluid. After spending about $125.00 for 4 litters of ATF and pissed off that dealerships are ripping people off I decided to call a friend who has a friend that is an Amsoil dealer. Wish I would have called him first. 

He said he had ATF for two transmissions. He first told me he had it for the 01M and I said no that will not work. He then said he had it for the 09A and I said "BINGO". Below is the solenoids from Cobra Transmission ($319.00) the small little plastic retainer for the fill plug. and a bottle of VW over the top $29.10 per litter ATF. 










Took the VW ATF back and bought the Amsoil ATF. 










This is pulled from AMSOIL website... 


LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS: 

Engine Oil 
Grade 1......SEO[1] 
Performance AMSOIL European Car Formula 100% Synthetic 5W-40 Motor Oil (AFLQT) AMSOIL European Car Formula 100% Synthetic 5W-40 Motor Oil (AFLQT) 

Drain Interval Information 

All TEMPS......5W-30, 5W-40, 0W-40 
Manual Transmission,02J (5-SPD)......GL-4 
All TEMPS......75W-90 [2] 

Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube (75W-90) API GL-4 (MTGQT) 
Automatic Transmission,01M......AE [3] 

Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATFQT) 
Automatic Transmission,09A......SLF [4] 

Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATFQT) 
Differential, Front W/ AT......GL-4 
All TEMPS......75W-90 [5] [6] 

Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube (75W-90) API GL-4 (MTGQT) 
Fluids 
Clutch Fluid......HBH 
AMSOIL Brake Fluid DOT-4 (BF4SN) 
Power Steering Fluid......PS 
Power Steering Fluid (PSFCN) 
Clutch Fluid...... 
No AMSOIL Product Recommendation 
Brake Fluid......HBH 
AMSOIL Brake Fluid DOT-4 (BF4SN) 

[1] Use engine oil meeting Volkswagen Oil Standard 502 00 
[2] VW part no. G 052 726 A2 (synthetic)or equivalent. 
[3] VW part no. G 052 162 A2 
[4] VW part no. G 052 990 A2 
[5] Final drive for Automatic transmission only. 
[6] VW part no. G 052 145 (synthetic), or equivalent 


FILTERS: 
Oil Filter 25,000-Mile Ea Oil Filter (EAO37) 
Oil Filter MANN Oil Filter (W71930) 
Air Filter Absolute Efficiency Air Filter (EAA208) 
Air Filter MANN Air Filter (C371531) 
Cabin Air Filter MANN Cabin Air Filter (CUK2862) [1] 
Fuel Filter MANN Fuel Filter (WK7301) 
Transmission Filter WIX 58609 Auto Tran Filter 

[1] Not all models may be outfitted with a cabin air filter. Please verify before ordering. 



NGK PLUGS AND WIRESETS: 
PREMIUMPLATINUM PLUG PFR6Q * # NGK6458 
WIRESET WIRESET Direct Fire Ignition [1] 

[1] No Wires Req'd 



WIPER BLADES: 
Blade Class Driver Passenger Rear 
ExactFit T211 T191 T151 
NeoForm T16210 T16190 T16140 
Winter T37210 T37205 T37150 




CHASSIS LUBRICATION: 
0 Fittings, 0 Plugs 




CAPACITIES: 
Engine, with filter..........4.8 quarts [1] 
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........5 quarts 
AMSOIL Antifreeze and Engine Coolant 
Automatic Transmission, 09A Initial Fill..........2.6 quarts 
Automatic Transmission, 01M Initial Fill..........3.2 quarts 
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill 
5 speed 09A..........7.4 quarts 
4 speed 01M..........5.6 quarts 
Manual Transmission, 02J (5-SPD)..........4.2 pints 
Differential, With AT Front..........1.7 pints [2] 

[1] To prevent overfilling during oil changes, add 0.5 liter 
(0.5 quart) less than capacity shown, start engine, let run 
until engine operating temperature is approx. 60 °C (140 °F) 
, switch engine off, wait 3 minutes, check dipstick, 
fill to full mark as indicated on dipstick (may be more or 
less than 0.5 liter (0.5 quart) depending on model). 
[2] Final drive for Automatic transmission only. 



TORQUES: 
Oil Drain Plug.....22 ft/lbs 
Manual Transmission 02J 
Fill Plug NA ft/lbs 
Drain Plug NA ft/lbs 
Manual Transmission 02M 
Fill Plug 22 ft/lbs 
Drain Plug NA ft/lbs 




OTHER TOP QUALITY PRODUCTS: 
Mothers® Car Care Appearance Products 
By-Pass Oil Filters 

PI Performance Improver Gasoline Additive 

Product Recommendations and Drain Interval Chart


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## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

In draining the transmission I measured 110oz. of VW ATF that drained from the transmission. *Another 5 ounces drained out once the pan was removed for a total of 115 ounces.* I allowed the fluid to drain until nothing left came out. I have the car on jackstands and leveled front to back and side to side. For added precaution I placed cement blocks and plywood on either side of the car.


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## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

Here is the dogbone rear mount on the bottom of the transmission. You will need to remove this to pull the transmission back a few inches. This only takes minutes to remove and will help make more room on the front side of the pan aiding in the solenoid replacement. 










I used the rear cross member to attached the strap so that the transmission can be pulled back. 










Prior to pulling the transmission back there are (4) 10mm nuts that need to be removed so that the wiring harness will detach from the front of the transmission oil pan. I hooked the other end of the strap to a the bottom of the transmission instead of the CV joint. Much better option and less likely of tearing the CV joint boot.


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## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

This photo is looking straight down from the top after the battery and battery box has been removed, In this photo you can see the (4) 10mm studs on the transmission oil pan. They hold the wiring harness and the power steering line. Once removed you can pull these wires away from the pan.


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## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

After the battery box is removed the linkage and switch needs to be removed. Take note the position the switcth is in so that the switch can be reinstalled in the same position. I took a number of photos just to be safe.


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## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

With the switch removed and the wiring harness pulled back now its time to start removing all the bolts.


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## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

My sons Jetta does not have the red retaining cap on the fill plug. Either the fluid has been changed or it was replaced. I have the service records and I know the Jetta was in the shop for scheduled changes. This may explain the black plastic retainer. 










This photo shows the fluid level check plug.


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## scollins799 (Feb 1, 2007)

*09A solenoid swapping (me too)*

I'm doing my 2004 Jetta this weekend too. Most of the prep is done and I'm ready to take off the pan. So far, looks like I've got enough room so I have left the dog-bone in place. 

I was able to carefully work the curvy black hardline in front of the pan forward and down out of the way rather than tying it forward. It took some fussing with the flexible part of the line near the back of the trans. (I think it's a cooling loop for the power steering line...) 

I got a 4 L jug of FUCHS ATF 3353 (part no G-052-990-A2 ) for about $50 from these guys: 
http://www.rmeuropean.com/search.aspx?keyword=g052990a2 
who also have the trans plug and safety cap. 

I got the whole solenoid kid from Cobra, but I still can't decide if I want to "replace them all while it's open" or "don't touch anything I don't have to". Both seem like sound principles. Needs N92 for sure. Gonna decide when I get a little farther. 

Good luck with your swap. I'll post if I hit a snag. 

Steve "my WORKING car is on Mars" Collins


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## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

scollins799 said:


> I'm doing my 2004 Jetta this weekend too. Most of the prep is done and I'm ready to take off the pan. So far, looks like I've got enough room so I have left the dog-bone in place.
> 
> I was able to carefully work the curvy black hardline in front of the pan forward and down out of the way rather than tying it forward. It took some fussing with the flexible part of the line near the back of the trans. (I think it's a cooling loop for the power steering line...)
> 
> ...


 Hey Steve, the power of the internet. I would like to hear your results so please post. Have been feeling a little under the weather today but heading out to pull the pan. Keep me updated. I will be posting photos for future issues for everyone. Personally I would replace all solenoids. If your going to have it down this far its a no brainer...


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## scollins799 (Feb 1, 2007)

AzViper said:


> Hey Steve, the power of the internet. I would like to hear your results so please post. Have been feeling a little under the weather today but heading out to pull the pan. Keep me updated. I will be posting photos for future issues for everyone. Personally I would replace all solenoids. If your going to have it down this far its a no brainer...


 
In mine, (130K mi) the little plastic connector latches were VERY brittle and I broke a couple of them trying to feel how they work. It seems like the actual metal blade connectors have some kind of detent, so I'm just going to put things back together and cross my fingers. If you squeeze the plastic latch in just the right way and jiggle gently they will come off without breaking but because of space it's often difficult to get your fingers in the right geometry. I also had factory tie-wrap on on of the wire bundles break from incidental tugging on the wire harness. It took me about an hour to hunt down the fragments and make sure they were out of there. I made sure I found all the tiny bits from the connectors too. 

After the adventure with the connectors, I decided not to swap N93. It's the biggest pain, because you have to de-mate the main harness connector. I did all swap all the other so I'm rolling the dice on the infant-mortality and unintended consequences. It's pretty tight, but I was able to get to everything without using the dog-bone trick or putting the front of the car in "maintenance position" to make more room. I wanted more room the most when I was hunting for tie-wrap bits. 

The inside of my pan had lots of bubbled paint. Once I started messing with it, it came off in sizable sheets. I have not yet decided yet if I'm going to strip the whole inside to bare metal, or leave the paint that seems "sound" 

Swapping out a few of the solenoids is a bit of a puzzle. I was trying to do them one by one, but the ones in the center of the valve body need to come off at the same time for access to connectors, bolts etc. There is one 

My pan came from the factory with just RTV (no gasket). I'm not sure yet how I'm going to put things back together, RTV only, or RTV with one of the 2 different gaskets I got from Cobra Transmission. 

I'm taking a break to feed before I try to slap the pan back on. 

Steve


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## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

I pulled the hardline power steering line down and out of the way too. Rather easy due to the steel line having rubber hoses at each end. Made it much easier to get to the solenoids. 

I started with replacing N282 / N283 first. Then I moved onto N92 of which had a nut and the bolt on the backside appeared to be secured with no problem of the bolt falling back into the case as Coolvdub had reported in his thread, http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1521077-Solenoid-Change-09A-Tiptronic - - - - N89, N281, need to be removed in order to replace N91, but N91 needs to be removed to install N90 first. N88 needs to be pulled out and the bolt directly below the N88 mounting bolt needs to be out in order to reach the mounting bolt on the right side of N93. Once N93 is bolted down the bolt below N88 can be replace followed by installing N88. 

I know this sounds complicated but its not. The key is keeping track of wires and what wires go to what solenoids. Take pictures for reference as your car may have different colored connectores or wires. I left the wires connected to the solenoids and allowed the solenoid to dangle from the wires so not to lose track as you will have N89, N281, and N91 floating in space in order to install N90. 

Hope this helps as its the best way I can explain it. I had ask this question before I got started if there was a sequence and yet there is a sequence when the valve body is installed and not easily seen while looking at it from underneath. Take my advise and work slowly and you will not have any problems.


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## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

As you can see I have made even more room by moving the power steering lines down and away from the pan. The line has rubber hose on each end. Takes a lillte work but you can work the line downward and out of the way. 










Here the power steering lines are below and away from the front of the pan. 










Here you can see the front of the pan clear of all lines. 










I may also say there is no need to remove the driverside wheel. I did remove the bottom skirt that is screwed to the front bumper. 

All the bolts have been removed. I did have a stripped out bolt on the top of which leads me to think someone had been inside this pan before. 










The pan is really clean inside. No blistering of the paint as others have seen. There was a patch of paint missing.


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## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

Here is the solenoid body and solenoids. 




























I had my laptop out under the hood with this image for reference to look at. 










The pan with the gasket. I used an adhesive to secure the gasket to the pan. Made it much easier to put the pan on. 










The filler plug. I may go get a new plug as the red retainer I bought is not for this plug.


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## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

I did replace all 9 solenoids. Was much easier than I was led to believe. By moving the power steering line help clear the front of the pan. By removing the dogbone and pulling the transmisson back help to aid in more room. With all the room I was able to take the pan out the bottom. Plenty of clearence to get the pan out. 

I will not be placing the temp probe down into the filler hole as it would hit the solenoids. I will just get a reading from outside of the tranny case. I really thought it was going to be a problem but I was able to get my arms and hands up into this tight area with no problems at all. I think others would be wise to move the power steering line downward. There is a 10mm bolt that holds the line in place on the top side of the tranny / driverside that needs to be removed. Its a little tuff to manage the line downward but it will make your day much easier.


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## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

On another note when I pulled the pan another 5 ounces of fluid came out. So the total fluid that drain from my tranny was 115 ounces. This is a very accurate reading as I measured everything that drained out.


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

AzViper said:


> All the bolt of been removed. I did have a stripped out bolt on the top of which leads me to think someone had been inside this pan before.


Yes, someone has been in there before. That sloppy and excessive white silicone is not how they come from Japan.


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## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

I got the Jetta all back together and everything is AOK. I ended up putting 120 ounces of ATF. I put 96 ounces in then started the card. Let it warm up some and went through all the gears. Next I had the remaining 24 ounces of ATF and again started the car and went through all the gears. I never did pull the overflow plug. I knew exactly how much ATF I had drained and added 5 more ounces.

It turns out that the CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR is bad as the EPC light come on every once in a while. When that happens the idle RPM goes to about 1100 and the car will die and will have some wierd shifting issues.

Its my understanding the sensor is near the oil filter. The EPC light is intermittent when its on the engine idle is high, the car will die, and the RPMs are all over the place. When the EPC light is out the car runs great...


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## scollins799 (Feb 1, 2007)

My 2004 is also back together and seems to be working on one test drive around the hood. It shifted properly while cold and went up and down through the gears as it used to both in auto mode and tip. I ended up putting the pan on with just RTV (no gasket) since that's how it came from the factory and managed to get the surfaces nice and clean. No signs of leakage so far. 

While I was waiting for the RTV to set, I remembered that I could do an electrical checkout of the solenoids to at least verify that everything was hooked up. To do it, I pulled the connector off the TCU (next to the cabin air filter at the top right of the firewall) and measured the resistance between ground and the pin to each solenoid. I most of the info to do it from here 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3469274

For this pass, I just clipped directly to the trans to get "ground" for the measurements since I still had the ground to the engine block was disconnected. Each of the solenoids came back in the normal range so that gave me confidence that they were all hooked up and working electrically. On my car, I was having the "no shift when cold" issue even though the resistance of solenoid N92 looked just fine. That implies it must me a mechanical issue with the solenoid rather than something with the windings. 

I got 121 fl oz of fluid out when I did the drain and put the same amount back in plus a couple more. I didn't bother to level the car for the solenoid swap, just raised the front. Tomorrow I plan to warm up the car, level it carefully and drain out any excess fluid via the check port. 

Glad to hear you've got yours back on the road too AzViper. I wonder if data from the crank sensor is used to tell the transmission what the input RPM is. If so, then that would certainly effect the shifting. 

I have entered the gaping maw of the Tiptronic and have emerged victorious!

steve


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## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

Steve I too will check the level of fluid once I get everything corrected. Going to pull the crankshaft sensor clean it and the contacts and reinstall it while waiting for a new sensor to arrive. Then will drive the car for a while. If everything checks out I then will be off to Autozone to have them read the codes again.

The EPC light has a direct connection to how it shifts due to the wild RPMs we are encountering. Because the light comes on and off I am suspecting a bad connection, will see today... 

I pulled out the crankshaft sensor and there was a small deposit on the center of the sensor. I cleaned and check the connection. I reistalled it and drove for 30 miles and everything appeared AOK but the car shutdown and the EPC light came on. So a new sensor needs to be installed.

What a fun car to drive. This being my sons car I did not realize how damn fast this car is. How has he not gotten a ticket I have no clue. WOW!!!

Here is the sensor after being pulled out.











This is the old sensor still in the block. You can see my 10mm socket and extension. 










The sensor has been removed. You will also notice I took out the oil filter. Locating and pulling the sensor out you will need to remove the filter to make it easier. I had to use a small pair of Channel Locks to grap the sensor and pullout. 










Here is the gray connector. Rather straight forawrd on seperating the two plugs. You will benfit reaching the connector if you remove the wiring harness from the small bracket that is seen in the top right of this photo. The photo was taken after I reinstalled everything.















Keith


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## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

As you can see no EPC or Check Engine on the instrument panel. Do need to check the brakes though. I do have some shifting issues. If the car is driven normal and no hard accelerations the car shifts perfect through all gears and downshifts through all gears, but if I accelerate hard from a dead stop the transmission will not shift out of 1st gear. Almost sounds and feels its slipping as the RPM go high before I can release the gas pedal.


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## midorialexandros (Jan 7, 2010)

AzViper said:


> As you can see no EPC or Check Engine on the instrument panel. Do need to check the brakes though. I do have some shifting issues. If the car is driven normal and no hard accelerations the car shifts perfect through all gears and downshifts through all gears, but if I accelerate hard from a dead stop the transmission will not shift out of 1st gear. Almost sounds and feels its slipping as the RPM go high before I can release the gas pedal.


Hey! I am an AZ resident also!

Ive been reading through your thread and this last post caught my attention.. My car is having different issues BUT the last thing you posted here "but if I accelerate hard from a dead stop the transmission will not shift out of 1st gear. Almost sounds and feels its slipping as the RPM go high before I can release the gas pedal." my vehicle is doing this, among other things. Curious to see what this ends up being. Right now I am considering TCM replacement after chasing this issue and it costing me some big bucks. :/


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## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

midorialexandros said:


> Hey! I am an AZ resident also!
> 
> Ive been reading through your thread and this last post caught my attention.. My car is having different issues BUT the last thing you posted here "but if I accelerate hard from a dead stop the transmission will not shift out of 1st gear. Almost sounds and feels its slipping as the RPM go high before I can release the gas pedal." my vehicle is doing this, among other things. Curious to see what this ends up being. Right now I am considering TCM replacement after chasing this issue and it costing me some big bucks. :/


Personally I think what is happening is the tranny is shifting but its slipping due to the high rpm. I told my son he needs to drive the car like an old lady. Like I said the tranny shift fine if the car is driven normal. Going back to when the tranny was having solenoid issues is where I believe my son burnt the clutches and this is why it slips on hard acelleration. TUCSON, AZ.


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## wiseguy55 (Oct 29, 2012)

AzViper:

Thanks for this post, it was very helpful to me this weekend in changing out all 9 of my solenoids on my 09A.

Anyways, I have this issue read here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...nny-wont-shift-from-first-to-second-when-cold

As you read on my post today in that thread, I solved the "not shifting our of 1st when cold" issue, but I still have the high RPM"s problem which is think is because 5th gear is not engaging.

What caught my attention in your thread wast the picture of your valve body when you removed the pan and the red wire that connects to the left bolt of the N90 solenoid, mine was connected the same way as your's was. But at fist I was thinking mine was hooked up incorrectly because it was not hooked up the way the picture you posted of the valve body was, where the red wire was hooked up to the right side bold of N93 solenoid like this:










Anyways, I'm still trying to figure out why my car is not shifting into 5th gear and wanted to rule this red wire out. I think my next step is to get with someone with a VAGcom and scan my car.

Anyone near the Los Angeles area that could do me that favor? Beer, lunch?

Thanks guys!


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## grubyuppie (Jan 9, 2012)

AZViper, 
Strong work! You make it look fun. And I need it to be fun because I'll be doing it for a second time this year...this time on a rebuilt 09A with a one sticking solenoid.


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## habbyguy (Feb 26, 2013)

I just took my 09a apart, and the red wire goes to the alternate location that Wiseguy55 mentions below. Either way, it seems to be a ground wire, so it shouldn't matter (and the location he shows his red wire connected to seems like it would be a bit easier to connect to).

I was hoping to be able to clean and reuse my shift solenoids, but the second one I took out was mechanically bad (feels like it's got no return spring), so I bit the bullet and ordered a full set of replacements from Cobra. I'm hoping the previous owner didn't abuse the rest of the tranny too much after the shifting problems started. 

Along those lines, I've read several references to "burnt" tranny fluid, and wonder if that applies to mine. The fluid is still dark reddish, but does have an odd, hard to describe smell to it, but since I've never smelled what "good used tranny fluid" for a 09a smells like, it might be fine - or burned up. There was no sign of metal shavings on the drain plug, which has to be good news.

So by this afternoon (if FedEx arrives early enough) I should have nine shiny new shift solenoids and four quarts (+/-) of Mercon V fluid in place, and hopefully will have a sweet-shifting Tiptronic. Or, I'll be cruising the want ads for a replacement... :facepalm:


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

habbyguy said:


> There was no sign of metal shavings on the drain plug, which has to be good news.


The drain plug of your transmission has a magnet?....the drain plug of my 09A (original one) is not magnetized.


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## habbyguy (Feb 26, 2013)

Yep, it's got a magnet. There was a little sludge on it, but no obvious metal bits...

http://www.habcycles.com/trannyplug.jpg

Maybe it's an aftermarket plug? 

I'm still waiting on my shift solenoids. Had to amuse myself with taking apart, cleaning and repainting the trim on my center console (from the shift lever surround to the ash tray, the lower center dash panel and the cupholder lid). Looks MUCH better, but doesn't help my tranny stop slipping.


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## habbyguy (Feb 26, 2013)

Update... I swapped out all nine solenoids, and it fixed almost all my shifting problems. I swear the car is making tons more power now, too (not sure why that would happen, but the battery was at zero for days, so maybe it reset the computer). If I'm at more than half throttle, the tires break loose shifting into second (and it's not even a "hard" shift).

Anyway, the one issue I do still have is that when I'm going easy, there's a flare between second and third gear, very repeatable. It's not nearly so noticeable if I'm really on the throttle, but sounds like the shift may still be happening a little slower than the other shifts. 

From the reading I've done, there are a couple things that could cause this:
1) TCU programming. I just got my VAGCom tool, but haven't installed it on my laptop yet. I read about a manual method of doing this, and have seen that it seemed to fix the same problem in some other cars.

2) Low or high tranny fluid. I took out about 3.3 quarts, and put about 3.8 quarts back in (based on the reports that a little extra has produced such good results). Since I didn't have the VAGCom tool to measure the tranny fluid at exactly 40 degrees C, I figured I'd do that later.

Who wants to bet that #1 or #2 will fix my 2-3 shift? And I'd love (hate?) to hear other ideas about what could be causing the flare.


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## habbyguy (Feb 26, 2013)

OK, I'm stumped. Hope there are some Tiptronic experts out there who can tell me what I'm dealing with.

I removed the fill bolt, after checking the transmission fluid temperature, and drained out over a quart of fluid. I was kind of surprised at the amount, so it's clear the tranny was overfilled by the previous owner, at least a little (and I upped the fluid by half a quart as a starting point when I did the solenoid replacement). Surprisingly, this made no real difference in the operation of the tranny. It still shifts great other than the 2nd to 3rd shift.

Here's what it does...
1) Cold - for the first mile or so, it shifts perfectly.
2) After warming up, it will slip between 2nd and 3rd, but only under light throttle. It seems to shift OK at heavier throttle, though the shift might be a little slower than the others. 

This is very repeatable, and the car will throw an intermediate shaft error code when this happens (sometimes, sometimes it doesn't).

Any ideas?


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## gerardojdm (Oct 7, 2013)

Hi there sorry to bring up the thread, but I have the same the same issue with my jetta. It doesn't slip, it simply won't shift pass first gear even if I try to shift in semi-auto. I see the computer telling it to shift to 2 and 3, but nothing happens just revving in 1st gear. With all that I have read and researched I'm pretty sure it's the shift solenoids.


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## asalaz17 (Oct 15, 2013)

*The Best fluid you can buy.*

I have read so much to what trans fluid to use in the Tip/09A. The answer is use the best you can buy and that really is not the stuff that comes in the VW bottle. I'm not saying that the VW stuff is not good, but it really is nothing special. I had an oil company do a spec on it and got some MSDS sheets from Europe and the only thing unique is the viscosity. It is between what is commonly known as HiVis and LoVis. 

I went with a 100% synthetic that I plan on changing every 25K. The 09A runs really hot and there is a lot of moving parts that cause a lot of friction. I was even thinking of moving or off setting the power steering tube/coil that sits in front of it. When I took mine apart, I noticed that where the power steering tube was, it burned the paint off the inside. 

I used Torco HiVis and the trans shifted smoother than ever before. It's not cheep fluid, but neither is a new trans.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

gerardojdm said:


> Hi there sorry to bring up the thread, but I have the same the same issue with my jetta. It doesn't slip, it simply won't shift pass first gear even if I try to shift in semi-auto. I see the computer telling it to shift to 2 and 3, but nothing happens just revving in 1st gear. With all that I have read and researched I'm pretty sure it's the shift solenoids.


Is this just a comment or do you have a question?

Usually solenoid problems will be "cold only but the solenoids can stick completely and cause no upshift at all.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

asalaz17 said:


> The 09A runs really hot and there is a lot of moving parts that cause a lot of friction.


Have you ever looked at the temp sensor reading on vag com as you drove the car?


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## Mastajoda (Nov 14, 2013)

*You saved me over $5000!*

I went to my local VW dealership after reading your post, since we had similar issues, and they immediately told me I would need a new transmission. They wouldn't even consider changing the solenoids, like I asked. Well... $600 later(parts, fluid and new toys(tools)), my transmission light is off, and this Jetta shifts like a dream. It is hard to feel the shift!!! It is so smooth... Thanks for giving me the confidence to do it myself!! I've never touched a transmission before last night, and I was able to complete the job in under 6 hours.(I went slow since all the plastic pieces are brittle!!!) I woke up this morning to test my cold start issues.. Non-existent!! Victory!! If you are reading this, and you are having similar issues, just follow this mans directions and you will be pleased! I'm happy as **** right now! haha THANKS!!!!


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

Be sure to write a strongly worded letter to the dealer so that maybe they will train their technicians to diagnose the problem properly in the future so that everyone who comes in the door doesn't buy a transmission they dont need.


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## Ridiver60 (Apr 3, 2011)

*Many thanks*

Many thanks to Vortex members particularly CoolAirvw and AZViper. Shifting great again. My 04 jetta TDI and was having hard shifts 2-3 and 4-5 then consistent check engine light with code Solenoid valve 6 (N93) Open or short to plus. Checked resistence at TCM harness and double checked at the transmission. Only N93 out of spec (66 ohms). As recommended replaced all selenoids from Cobratransmission.com (fast shipping). I only removed the gear selector and moved the power steering line down and back toward the firewall. I have fairly small hands and wrists and had plenty of room. 

I re-wrote AZVipers suggested sequence for selenoid removal and replacment in a way that was easier for me to follow. I was surprised how smoothly the swap went (got lucky for once). In case it helps anyone else, here's the way I re-worded AZVipers sequence. 

Remove/install N282/N283. Remove and install N92. Leaving wires connected remove N89, N281, and N91 (I bagged and labeled bolts as I removed them, some are different lengths). Remove and install N90. Install N91. Install N89 and N281. Leave wire attached and remove N88. Remove bolt directly below N88 (I believe its one of the bolts holding the valve body) to get to the bolt for N93 . Remove and Install N93 (For the N93 bolt closest to the center of the pan I used a ratcheting wrench, I couldn't get a socket with swivel in there). Replace valve body bolt below N88. Install N88


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## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

Bump for those that need to make repairs to their 09A Trans.


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## gswyman (Jan 19, 2015)

*Even more Thanks*

I just wanted to say how much I appreciate everyone who takes the time to contribute to this thread.
Armed with the info from here I was able to fix the 09A on my sons 2005 GTI. I am an average mechanic
that knows his limits. There is no way I could/would have attempted this let alone succeeded without the
information here.

BTW: Started with the won't shift from first until warm problem, then got worse from there.
Bought the 9 solenoid kit from Cobra, used Amsoil fluid. While it isn't really difficult, you need to be
patient and take your time. One thing at a time. Don't get ahead of yourself.

Everything seems to be working properly.
Again, thanks to all who contribute.


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## 02Jetta1EightTurbo (May 14, 2014)

*HELP....*

So after a month or so of reading all the info I could on this N92 solenoid issue I decided to take my Jetta to a transmission shop. No codes popped up on the computer and they told me I need it rebuilt. When it's cold outside (below freezing) I have to let it warm up for around 20-40 minutes before it'll shift into 2nd and then it's fine once it's warmed up. Being I seem to be having the same issue as the rest of everyone... do I just need the N92 solenoid? I think this tranny "mechanic" is full of crap thinking its not that when tons of other people have had positive results after replacing it. Any feedback is greatly appreciated...


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## gsferraro (Sep 22, 2014)

Hello,
Well you either have a solenoid problem or a stuck valve in the valvebody, 99% of the time it is a solenoid issue, but i would replace all of them, others can give you trouble as well. Gary(i have a transmission shop in new york)


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## 02Jetta1EightTurbo (May 14, 2014)

That's a long drive in first gear haha


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## waseem_abbasi (Apr 13, 2015)

*Should VB be replaced or just the solenoid valve?*

Hello Every one,

I have following codes
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 09G-927-750.clb
Part No: 09G 927 750 AS
Component: AQ 250 6F 0649 
Coding: 0000008
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 020BADF05D4FE731784-8057

2 Faults Found:
00260 - Solenoid Valve 2 (N89) 
010 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
01045 - Tiptronic Switch (F189) 
008 - Implausible Signal

Should VB be replaced or just the solenoid valve?

Thanks for help


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## scollins799 (Feb 1, 2007)

*Update on 2004 Jetta trans solenoid job*

I've put 23000 miles on my 04 Jetta transmission since I replaced most of the solenoid valves (all but N93 see earlier post). It has been trouble free and shifting fine for that time. A few months ago, it began occasionally having a short delay (a few sec) before engaging in 1st when cold in the morning. Reverse seems to work fine. It's not enough of a problem to do anything about so far, but I wanted to thank the folks who contributed to this thread and made this miracle of trans-re-animation possible. 

Steve

PS Curiosity Rover still working too, though having some minor issues with tire wear


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## MarisaTN (May 20, 2015)

I just did a drain and fill cold, no vagcom and no overfill check, just measured what came out and put same in. My question is, is it norMal for only 3 quarts to come out or should I check the level. I am not the first owner.


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## memoryinuse2 (Sep 27, 2015)

*old post found*



AzViper said:


> I need to change all the solenoids on my sons 2003 1.8T Jetta that has the 5 speed Tiptonic trans. I have enclosed a photo of a valve body. In looking at the body it appears some of the solenoids blocks other solenoids from being removed.
> 
> Update: There is a sequence to the order of how you change out these solenoids. Photos and explanations of what solenoids need to be chageout first in this thread.


saw you earlier, but had to re search to spot you again tks for the info. good things to you.


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## radlynx (Jan 4, 2007)

This is just another success story with regards to replacing your solenoids. I replaced my 9 solenoids and wire harness at the same time and the shifting are now working even on very cold weather.

I used the cork gasket and also I noticed that the paint inside the pan were bubbling up. I decided to remove all the paint from the inside to avoid the paint from clogging anything there.

However, I also noticed that the ATF is leaking out of the breather cap. Did anyone experience this?


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## Tutorman04 (Jun 3, 2015)

radlynx said:


> This is just another success story with regards to replacing your solenoids. I replaced my 9 solenoids and wire harness at the same time and the shifting are now working even on very cold weather.
> 
> I used the cork gasket and also I noticed that the paint inside the pan were bubbling up. I decided to remove all the paint from the inside to avoid the paint from clogging anything there.


I too am a success story in replacing all 9 solenoids. I just did it end of october. 
At first everything was fine then next day no reverse. But on the 4rd day reverse came back and has worked ever since. 
I did not replace the harness, I recommend replacing it. I wish someone would have stressed that to me. I actually purchased a new set of solenoids and a harness thinking I got a bad one. 
Thank goodness I got them from Cobra Transmission. I didn't use the second set or the harness and I got all my money back for them.


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## radlynx (Jan 4, 2007)

I agree, you don't have to replace the harness but in my situation, I thought since it's been there for 157000 miles, why not replace it now to avoid future wire connection problem. for those who will plan to do this in the future, make sure to remove the inside paint of the pan since the paint could bubble up and cause a blockage there. also if you get to remove the silicone within the inside vent area, seal it back up to avoid the atf from leaking out of the vent. I think that was my problem now, atf is leaking out of the vent. I'll be opening it back again and seal the vent area and use a VW liquid gasket, would be easier to do. My temporary fix though is to use a clear hose tubing and route it higher to the brake system and down all the way to the bottom so if it leaks, it doesn't get spread out anywhere on the transmission. Good luck to those who want to do this. really doable, just time consuming. you'll need at least 2 night work.



Tutorman04 said:


> I too am a success story in replacing all 9 solenoids. I just did it end of october.
> At first everything was fine then next day no reverse. But on the 4rd day reverse came back and has worked ever since.
> I did not replace the harness, I recommend replacing it. I wish someone would have stressed that to me. I actually purchased a new set of solenoids and a harness thinking I got a bad one.
> Thank goodness I got them from Cobra Transmission. I didn't use the second set or the harness and I got all my money back for them.


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## Mojodiesel (Jul 4, 2017)

*Effect of leaving out bracket adjacent to solenoid N91?*

Can anyone guess - or maybe know- how a transmission would operate without reinstalling the metal bracket adjacent to solenoid N91? I took a chance after trying for an hour and left it out.


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## GFCH (Jul 18, 2017)

*Where to source parts*

Ah yes, another Jetta afflicted with morning sickness. Won't shift out of first till warm, then operates normally.

Can anyone give me the name of a respectable supplier for a set of Solenoids?

Plenty on eBay and Amazon but I dont feel like doing all that work and putting in dubious parts.

Many thanks

G


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## VWsince1980 (Feb 20, 2014)

GFCH said:


> Ah yes, another Jetta afflicted with morning sickness. Won't shift out of first till warm, then operates normally.
> 
> Can anyone give me the name of a respectable supplier for a set of Solenoids?
> 
> ...




Cobra Transmission provides all 9 OEM Mitsubishi solenoids part #98420 with a cork gasket for $214.99. I also suggest adding their fiber gasket Part # 98301 @ $5.99. Way better than the cork unit.

They'll bite you a bit for the replacement internal wiring harness @ $176.99. Can be had for $115.00 from Burlington VW. I did not care with futzing around with several suppliers for $50 or so. One stop shopping. Worth every penny.


However, in retrospect, do consider CoolAirVW for the solenoids as well. His input to this forum deserves recognition and your money. Let your conscious be your guide...

Good Luck.


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## VWsince1980 (Feb 20, 2014)

*Thanks to All!*

Well...

I did the full 9 OEM solenoid replacement two weeks ago. Big THANKS to this thread. My kid's 2004 09A 1.8T wagon recently developed the slow 1-2 when cold, code "00652 - Gear Monitoring 27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent" . I have performed 6 OEM G052990A2 2.5-3 liter fluid changes starting at 118K Miles, measured via VCDS since it was purchased in 2013 so knew the fluid quality and level were fine. two weeks ago it was at 137K-ish when it began the 00652 issue.


Onto replacing the solenoids... Got them from Cobra. Some observations and TIPS (pun intended)

1) Put the damned car in "Semi-Service" position. Only pull the R (passenger side) forward a couple of inches, and the L (driver side) forward about 4-5 inches or as limited by the upper radiator hose. No need for any hose disconnections. You'll then have plenty of room. Worth the 20-25 minutes.

2) Clean/brush/forced air the heck out of the area (Pan, above/below the pan, wire looms, drain/fill plugs, etc. Cleanliness is Godliness.

3) Follow AZ's information in this thread.

4) Don't use the cork gasket, even if it is free. Go with a nicer fiber gasket.

5) 8 N.m torque for solenoid bolts/nut as well as pan bolts (alternating pattern). If the pan bolts are rusty, replace them. M6x12, 1.00 pitch. My local Fastenal had nice shouldered SS units. Used with a dab of copper anti-sieze on each.

6) If desired
N90414201 Trans fluid level check plug , new part # N90414203
001409069D Drain plug washer 
01M321435B Red trans filler "safety" cap
01M321432A Black trans filler plug 



It took me about 8 hours due to being AR clean freak and cold wet weather, despite a garage. I replaced the wiring harness as well, starting with N93. Crappy brittle connectors. Be forewarned as others have said. N93 connection is in the back, so keep that in mind. Route the harness connections as per the detailed pics you should take after the pan/cover is off. Wires should not contact pan.

N91 goes in, then N93 ground, then hose retaining bracket, then bolt in that order per this car. and YES, you must install the N91 hose/tube retaining bracket.



I reset 060 Throttle Body Engine, 000 Trans, and 063 Engine via VCDS after battery was back in.

I filled with 3 liters of Ravenol JF506E fluid, drained/measured via VDCS, sealed it up. Went for a 20 minute drive. Perfection. Came back, cooled, and drained a measured 2.7 liters. Refilled with 2.7 liters of the Ravenol JF506E and had the kid take it away. She has reported perfect performance last week, so 2.7 liters is the sweet spot for her car. I'll double check her assertions.


I am doing three more fluid changes tomorrow, which is 5 total, equaling roughly 91% new fluid. It should be good to go. I'll do a fluid drain/fill every other 5K mile oil change interval henceforth. The "solution to pollution is dilution" method.


Again, MANY THANKS to all who have contributed to this thread!


Good Luck!


EDIT: The "editing" features on this site suck...


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## VWsince1980 (Feb 20, 2014)

Final fill was done with 3 liters today 3-10-19. Perfect and will use 3 liters after drains going forward. What a transformation in shifting and overall driveability.


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## CameraJack (Nov 15, 2013)

This seems to be the hip and happening thread for 09A issues so I was wondering if I could get some tips.

I have a 2002 PD130 with the 09A - 95k miles.

When cold it shifts pretty well, slightly hard on 2-3 but can be smooth if you're gentle on the throttle. 

Problems arise when it warms up. 

It will jerk when stopping (not disengaging to neutral properly) and then jerk again when releasing the brakes to go (not engaging drive properly)

It also starts to have problems with the 2-3 shift both up and down. On the way up the trans will "bind" almost for half a second before it makes it into third. Once it's in third it'll lock up the TC smooth as butter and go on to shift into fourth and fifth so smoothly you can barely feel it. First to second is only detectable through watching the tach as well. Going back down it'll "stick" in third before dropping hard into second. 

I hope that solenoid replacement will help with these issues. I feel like a combination of N88 and N93 may be responsible, but I would do all nine as a matter of course. N88 is responsible for the 2-3 shift (only solenoid that activates or deactivates for that gear change), and N88 is active in first gear. I imagine it sticking could cause problems going from neutral to drive and vice versa. 

That said, I don't want to drop £280 on solenoids if there's going to be someone that says "that won't solve the problem".

I found a thread somewhere with a guy who had exactly the same 2-3 issues I was having and replacing the N88 solved his problems. I was an idiot and didn't save it, and now I can't find it. Doh. 

Musings on these issues would be appreciated.

Oh, and I have no dash lights or codes stored for the trans. I don't actually have any codes stored at all! (small mercies) 

Cheers,

Jack


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## CameraJack (Nov 15, 2013)

To continue from my previous post:

I have also read of people with similar issues whos problems were cured with a replacement TCM and that TCMs are a known issue. 

Out of curiosity I just pulled out my TCM - mainly to take a look at the connector and make sure there were no damaged or corroded pins. The code on top is 09A 927 750 (AG).

I put AG in brackets because it was scribbled on in permanent marker over the original one/two final letters, making it impossible to read them.

I have a feeling that someone has been fiddling with this car before me. 

How interchangeable are the TCMs? There are a few floating around on eBay for thirty odd quid. They have different suffixes however. I did find one with a BG suffix rather than AG which I feel might be good. That is assuming, of course, that someone put the correct TCM in to start with. Try a I might I _cannot_ find information regarding which TCM suffix goes with which gearbox, or what the suffixes mean. The BG suffix one is refundable within 60 days so I might go for it as long as I can't damage anything by installing an "incorrect" TCM. 

If they're plug and play as long as the first nine characters are correct then it'd be worth the punt for so little money to rule out a bad TCM. 

Again, cheers for any advice.

Jack


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