# Anyone running GForce/Magnum stainless lines?



## engi (May 5, 2009)

I want to upgrade to SS lines on my MK2. I was going to get just the front ones from ECS, but saw the 6 line Magnum kit on eBay and the price is nice. They don't seem to be DOT approved, but does anyone have first hand experience with them? TIA
eBay link for reference: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ories


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## greyhare (Dec 24, 2003)

*Re: Anyone running GForce/Magnum stainless lines? (engi)*

IMHO you get what you pay for. Are your brakes where you want to pinch penny's?
Some of the non-DOT hoses have a habit of failing at the junction with the fitting.


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## engi (May 5, 2009)

*Re: Anyone running GForce/Magnum stainless lines? (greyhare)*

Thanks!


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

*Re: Anyone running GForce/Magnum stainless lines? (engi)*

Call the company to understand if they are DOT approved, most likely they are.


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## engi (May 5, 2009)

*Re: Anyone running GForce/Magnum stainless lines? (GTijoejoe)*

Here's what they had to say
"They are DOT compliant. The fittings are identical to original and with
original lengths."


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

*Re: Anyone running GForce/Magnum stainless lines? (engi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *engi* »_"They are DOT compliant. "

I'm not sure exactly what that means..... most likely they have not been tested/submitted to DOT, but because they can accept all DOT brake fluids probably makes them compliant........ don't quote me on that


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## d*rock (Oct 24, 2003)

DOT Compliant does not mean DOT Approved. It just means they're made to DOT rules or standards. There is a difference.


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## engi (May 5, 2009)

*Re: (d*rock)*

Thanks for the input everyone. I think I'm going to go with the ECS lines for the front. Changing out the rears on MK2 is annoying anyway.








I have another question on bleeding the brakes. I'm running a generic DOT4 fluid now and will switch to ATE Super Blue. I know the brake system capacity is one bottle, so I'm trying to use that much of the new fluid (i.e. don't want to open a second bottle). I also have a nearly full bottle of the generic DOT4 fluid. It has been opened and has stood for around 5 months.
Since I'll have lots of air in the system after swapping the lines, I'm thinking of bleeding the system with the opened fluid till I have no more air, and then bleeding again with Super Blue to replace all of the old fluid. Does this sound like a sensible idea?


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

*Re: (engi)*

Yes you can do that.....
Superblue is a waste of money IMO.......


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## engi (May 5, 2009)

*Re: (GTijoejoe)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GTijoejoe* »_
Superblue is a waste of money IMO.......

Could you please elaborate?


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

*Re: (engi)*

supeblue does not increase brake performance, the normal driver will never reach operation temperatures high enough to take advantage of its wet and dry boiling points...
Majority of the time ppl's pads would fade before the fluid can reach those types of temperatures.
For the money and the usage, I feel its a waste. Normal driving and even your most spirited public road driving would be difficult to heat the fluid up, some of the only times I could see on public roads would perhaps be in canons/mts and your driving like your racing. It takes consistant high brake G's to start heating of the fluid in the calipers, or constant brake drag.
Just my $0.02


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## engi (May 5, 2009)

*Re: (GTijoejoe)*

Those are all good points. I do take my car to the backroads/canyons at least once a week. I'm not driving like I'm racing, but I'm not doing the speed limit either, when the road is empty (it usually is). While there are no high G stops, the brakes do get used a fair bit. I'm also thinking of doing either auto-x or going to the track, come spring, and feel like Super Blue would be a suitable upgrade.
What fluid do you run?


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

*Re: (engi)*

Off the shelf 4dot fluid... more than enough for my typical driving, and yes even types of auto-x. 
You need to have high G, constant stops to heat brake fluid up to a considerable amount. The thing with Auto-x is your usually not going very fast and your brake zones are very short. 
Unlike cannon driving where they can be very long, and going down hill.....
Check out the difference in price to Motul500.... if I was going to use a 'high performance' fluid, this is what I would use. Superblue also stains crap, which I think is annoying, although its good for spotting leaks.
Fundamentaly your pad temp is going to raise, which through conduction will heat the piston and caliper body which than will start heating the fluid, if you understand heat transfer it will take time for this to happen significantly, OR your temperatures would be INSANE high which most likely would melt your disks


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## engi (May 5, 2009)

*Re: (GTijoejoe)*

LOL, I do understand heat transfer (got an A+ in that class







/bragging). Motul500 is crazy expensive, wouldn't venture there 
I'm running Hawk HPS pads upfront, so I guess they would give up sooner than the off-the-shelf 475F/320F DOT4 fluid.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

*Re: (engi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *engi* »_LOL, I do understand heat transfer (got an A+ in that class







/bragging). Motul500 is crazy expensive, wouldn't venture there 
I'm running Hawk HPS pads upfront, so I guess they would give up sooner than the off-the-shelf 475F/320F DOT4 fluid.

Congrats man, me too...
Not all DOT4 fluids are equal, you can find some with higher boiling pts than others.... but of course now you get my point. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## engi (May 5, 2009)

*Re: (GTijoejoe)*

That's the only off the shelf non-high performance fluid I can find locally at Kragen's. That one's around $7/liter. The Super Blue locally is $15/liter.


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