# rabbit 1.8t from hell



## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

this build starts with me buying someone else's half-assed project with the intent of using the engine and trans in my rabbit. The craigslist ad went like this:



Quick SALE 87 GTI 1.8t + extras - $2500 


For sale is my 1987 GTI with an AWP 1.8t. The Engine has less than 2000 miles on the top end (was redone, valve job porting etc when i bought it). 

Garrett t3 60 trim turbo (0.48 A/R exhaust side) which i assembled myself and purchased new 
Megasquirt 1 V3 board running wasted spark (can be programed for hi res 10g code currently running 029y4) 
Wiring harness from 034 Motorsport was just soldered and done right. 
034 Motorsport wasted spark ignition coil. 
New South Performance Oil Pressure and Boost Gauges and an AEM wideband O2 sensor all in a 3 gauge pod holder. 
Custom made 2.5" downpipe (exhaust is 2.5" turbo back) 
Manual Steering rack with brand new tie rod ends 
A/C Delete 
Brand new Euro single round headlights (depot H4 sealed beam) and grill 
Scirocco radiator 
Mishimoto front mount intercooler 
Turboxs external wastegate (45mm) 
HKS SSQV recirculatory BOV 
Siemans Deka 440cc injectors 
Brand New Battery 

The car starts every time and with a little more tuning will be a very reliable car. There is some cosmetic damage, there is a dent on the very bottom of the drivers side door and subframe, the door closes fine, the dent can be pulled and the door would need to be replaced. And it will need new tires. 

I spent around $5000 building the car and although it will probably not happen I would like to at least make out even but i am asking $3500. If you do some research you will find that parts alone are worth a lot of money, for example the ECU (http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...unit-p-56.html), injectors (http://www.injectorsonline.com/indiv...cid=74&scid=11). With the proper tuning this car can easily become a beast I just dont have the know how or time to mess with it anymore. I believe that $2500 is a very reasonable price. Also included with the sale are a lot of extra parts including, an o2J transmission, the original RD engine that came with the car (new headgasket) about 150,000 miles on it, an extra set of cam shafts, complete unmolested ce2 wiring harness including ECU and fuse panel, plus more. This stuff can be also parted out for a lot more money





Basically, I thought this was a runner that needed a bit of tuning. As it turned out, the car was underivable and never would be safe to drive. The kid who sold it to me had not bothered to put in the bolts that connect the starter to the front engine mount, so the turbo was resting against the firewall and brake lines, and every other bolt he had touched was not torqued at all. The result was that in trying to get it home, the axle separated from the transmission and the car got impounded in the hour that I left it unattended to try and round up a tow truck.

After I got it out of impound (which wasn't easy, since the title was still in the car and unsigned by me) I found out the megasquirt kept reseting due to ruined spark plug wires shorting to ground, it wouldn't build up boost because the eBay turbo manifold was cracked (and a POS to begin with), and the turbo was wobbly and spewing oil.

So, long story short, I chopped up the ruined mk2, traded all the spare parts for some garage space, bought an SPA cast manifold, some spark plug wires, an O2J shifter and shift tower, clutch and flywheel for the O2J, late cabriolet axles, custom mounts and now I'm ready to swap!

I'll start posting pics tomorrow, hopefully. Also, this is my first swap, so any encouragement/tips/warnings would be greatly appreciated.


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## MikkiJayne (Jan 1, 2007)

Ouch 

What are the parts going in now? Good luck :thumbup::beer:


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## WoLfBuRgJeTTa (Mar 4, 2006)

That's heavy, sorry to hear the story. Good luck with the swap, I am starting a thread soon too. I am just about finished building my 1.8T and I just got a shell this weekend.


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

Ok, got some photos of the car that will be receiving the transplant. I just finished shaving the hatch and welding up the trim holes along the bottom. 




























Got this car last year and I'm hoping to keep it forever.


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## hellrbbt (Sep 17, 2006)

Sounds like a rough start, hope the rest goes smoother! :beer:


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

Here's the engine and tranny, with new manifold and rebuilt turbo: 










beefy new manifold: 



















1st step in making the engine mount and the 16v timing belt setup: 



















and my interior. Busteder than hell seat and homemade carbon door cards:


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## WoLfBuRgJeTTa (Mar 4, 2006)

What block is that? I thought you had a full AWP?


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

i believe it is an AWP block, but I'm no expert and since the head has AWP stamped into it I didn't check the numbers on the block. It may look weird because I have put on a 16v timing belt tensioner so that there is room for the engine mount.


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## WoLfBuRgJeTTa (Mar 4, 2006)

I see, I totally missed that part.


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## 1.8TRabbit (Nov 15, 2004)

opcorn:


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

got any pics or a build info for your 1.8t rabbit, and where in the rockies are you?


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## 1.8TRabbit (Nov 15, 2004)

rotundapig said:


> got any pics or a build info for your 1.8t rabbit, and where in the rockies are you?


 I did. However when the TEX crashed it completely ruined my entire thread and most of the pictures were X'ed. I didnt have them back saved either so I unfortunately lost them all. This is all that is left of it though; http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2614656 

Also I am in Salt Lake. 
You?


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

that sucks that all your photos are gone. I'm in colorado springs. Just moved here from NC last summer, which is where the rabbit came from. Not super relevant to the build, but I towed the rabbit for 3 days behind this $550 van: 




























pulled the rabbit through the Appalachians, topped out at 85 in kansas, never broke down, never got pulled, and averaged 12mpg. That van may have been the best car I've ever owned. Also sold it for $700 when I got here. Some kid's first car is that creepy van.


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## MT-Getto (Mar 11, 2006)

That van is sweet!


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

yeah, if there was any chance of driving it in the snow, or getting ok gas mileage, I totally would have kept it.

Here's the vacuum booster and master cylinder from a 16v passat. It's going in along with some 11" front disks and girling 60 twin pot calipers. Turns out it bolts in perfect if you use the rabbit bracket.


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## FaithInMkIII2.0 (Jul 10, 2008)

I can't believe you guys made it that whole way without getting pulled over in that acid trip lookin van..awesome!


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## 1337le Teapot (Oct 13, 2006)

O man I looked at buying that car a few times... The kid was bent on just selling it. Sorry to hear it was that jacked up.


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

well, I was hoping from here on out there would be less bitching and more building in this thread, but someone stole my camera yesterday, so now more pictures for now.


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

I just drove the rabbit for the first time in a few days and saw gouges in the ignition from a screwdriver. Apparently, when my camera got stolen, they were trying to steal the rabbit. Luckily the thief was too stupid to hot wire, even though all the wiring was exposed.


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## FaithInMkIII2.0 (Jul 10, 2008)

rotundapig said:


> I just drove the rabbit for the first time in a few days and saw gouges in the ignition from a screwdriver. Apparently, when my camera got stolen, they were trying to steal the rabbit. Luckily the thief was too stupid to hot wire, even though all the wiring was exposed.


fortunately those who are stupid and low enough to steal are usually stupid enough to miss the obvious and/or get caught...hopefully the latter happens to the ass hats that stole ur camera!


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

Got the clutch and flywheel yesterday from ECS. mounted engine side stuff. 










Still waiting on the retaining spring for the release lever. Tomorrow I start to remove stock engine/tranny/brakes from the rabbit.

Sorry about the cell phone photos. working on getting a new camera


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## vee_dubb_gti (Nov 17, 2004)

opcorn:


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## WoLfBuRgJeTTa (Mar 4, 2006)

Which ECS clutch did you get? I was thinking about one of those for now too.


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

This clutch:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV--1.8T/Drivetrain/Clutch/ES125/

seems like a good deal. Basically just a Sachs clutch disk and pressure plate w/steel flywheel.

Started to pull engine today. I can only work on it for 3ish hours at a time most days.


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

It's also a huge relief to have the car locked in a garage where I don't have to worry about it getting broken into.


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

Got the engine and trans pulled today. Phone battery was dead before engine as out, so here's a pic of the shop and engine hoist.










Tomorrow will be a full day of work. more crappy photos then


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

engine bay got emptied out and cleaned up a bit. 




























Ground the hubs out to fit the 100mm axles, as advised in this super helpful thread:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...r-parts-problem-with-outer-CV-joint-84-Rabbit

Also got the wiring harness out so I can work on it this weekend.


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

ok, I can use a webcam to take photos now, so hopefully they will be a bit more clear. Started stripping down the wiring harness to the bare essentials. If anyone is intimately familiar with MK1 wiring and/or megasquirt, please let me know if you see and heinous errors. 

First, got rid of cold start valve, hot start pulse relay, transmission switch, etc. Left with black connector with starter solenoid , reverse light and oil temp.










There are two single wore connectors that the label fell off of and I haven't tracked them down in the wiring diagram, so they get a stay of execution. If some one knows what they're for let me know. 










Now, to thin out the mess around the fuse panel:










less wires, but still a mess after removing rear wiper/washer, oil pressure warning stuff, and some interior lights. 










I don't plan on using any of the stock gauges, but I'll leave those wires for now. The plan is to have a netbook in the dash so I can adjust megasquirt and have a dual screen setup for any sensors that go through MS (tach, coolant, boost, etc.)


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

not even the camera phone would cooperate today. Today was spent welding the reinforcements for the front crossmember and welding up holes in the firewall. I also got the release lever spring in the mail, so I was able to put the engine and tranny together today. Tomorrow they are going in the car so I car make the passenger side mount and downpipe.

EDIT:

Got some photos of the reinforcements.


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

I need to figure out what to do with the fuel lines. I could bend the stock ones around, but I don't want to pinch them anywhere. Does anyone know what is needed to connect new fuel lines to the old ones. Do you need some crazy metric flare tool?


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## ShaggysGTI (May 15, 2009)

Nibbler FTW!


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## hellrbbt (Sep 17, 2006)

rotundapig said:


> I need to figure out what to do with the fuel lines. I could bend the stock ones around, but I don't want to pinch them anywhere. Does anyone know what is needed to connect new fuel lines to the old ones. Do you need some crazy metric flare tool?


For bending the lines, use a fuel line bender or a big brake line bender.

For flaring, it depends on what you want to do. I was going to flare the hardlines to use the CIS stainless flex lines to the filter for my setup, but the cheap flaring tool I had couldn't make a good seal. So I got angry, made a halfway decent flare, and tried like hell to get the end of the fuel line over it with a fuel injection hose clamp behind it. It worked, but it looks nasty to me.

Just one option. :beer:


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

I was hoping to put on -6 AN lines from the base of the firewall to the filter. I think I already pinched one line.


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

Progress! I put the engine and tranny in to mock up the passenger side mount.



















Clearances looks good. I hope to fit an aluminum heat shield in there



















Tacked the mount together while it was in the engine bay, then welded it all together.



















and now the engine rests in it's rightful place.










Tomorrow I'll finish off the downpipe, then pull it all out for POR-15


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## vee_dubb_gti (Nov 17, 2004)

you might run into trouble using the passat booster. Ya the rabbit bracket bolts up but i think the rod length will not be the same. i ended up changing the length by cutting and re-welding it. this was in a mk1 scirocco tho so it might work for you. i think i took some pics, if i find them ill post them for you


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

Yeah, i already did that. I realized first that the clevis was different, then saw that the passat booster rod was about an inch shorter. 

Didn't even manage to start the downpipe today. I had to pull the steering rack and cut off the tabs for the old shift linkage in order to route the shift cables. At least now the shifter is in place.


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## JettaDriverFound (May 27, 2003)

This is what you need... I ordered it up from someone on Vortex. Quality is excellent, can't remember who fabricated but will dig through records if you want.


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

I think that's a downpipe for the stock ko3 turbo. Since I'm running a t3, and on the SPA top-mount manifold, I need to make my own downpipe, plus it's way cheaper. It's not that hard if you have a welder and a chop saw. Here's what I managed to make:










It's bolted to the flex pipe, which is the first section of the exhaust I'm also fabricating.










It's a really tight fit, which is yet another reason I would be wary of a downpipe not made specifically for this car.



















Monday I'll finish the rest of the exhaust back t the muffler (which I haven't bought yet), then start on the intercooler piping.


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

new super 60 turbo thanks to dub_slug:


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

Tacked the exhaust in place back to the rear axle. I guess I'll just put in a slip fitting here. 










Here it is about to be all welded up










Also mocked up intercooler pipes:



















It's a tight fit, but if I trim the headlight bracket a bit, it should be fine.










with the radiator in, it's beginning t look like a real car again.


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

after exhaust/intake was mocked up, engine was back out to POR-15 the bay. Now I understand why everyone rants about how awesome POR-15 is. I wanted to just keep painting the rest of the car. 










got passat booster and master cylinder in. 










wrapped up the downpipe in DEI titanium wrap. I'll use the rest of the roll to insulate where there used to be heat shields, such as near the gas tank.










I also made an aluminum heat shield to go right behind the turbo










I just picked up the little netbook that will be mounted in the dash. it's like this one:










Tomorrow engine go in and wiring begins.


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

Well, plenty of progress, but no photos. Engine is in for good, most wiring is done. Steering rack is back in with new bushings, downpipe is in, shifter is connected, intercooler and radiator are in. Brakes are connected. This weekend I have to find a starter and CRX clutch cable. 

I hope to have it running by the end of next week, putting total build time at one month.


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

Here are a few more photos:

engine in for good










current state of the interior










axles are in, coolant lines are connected, and most of the engine bay wiring is done. Now it's back on its wheels!



















I also bought a CRX clutch cable today, but it doesn't fit. I think I should have got one from a newer CRX (after '87). If anyone has any experience with the O2J clutch cable setup, let me know. I've done lots of searching and so far only come up with euro parts numbers and vague info.


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

Got a post-'87 CRX clutch cable to day and it looks like it'll work, but barely. Wiring is all done, except I can't figure out how I need to wire the mk4 alternator in. There is a 2-prong plug with no wires to go in it. So, tomorrow I need to figure that out and run some ground straps for the engine and tranny. 

once I do that, run coolant lines and oil feed line to the turbo, sort out my fuel lines and fill the car with fluids, it should be ready to crank.


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

had to weld in a bracket for the fuel filter, so I'm going to have to touch up with POR-15. I'll take some decent photos tomorrow, as well as a video of it running (hopefully)

I managed to finish the wiring today. Most vacuum lines are connected.

Only things left to do before starting it are connecting vacuum lines to the megasquirt, boost gauge and blow off valve, connect turbo coolant lines, and fill with fluids.


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

Here's a photo of the fuel filter in place:










Today I finished up the wiring and plumbed the coolant lines for the turbo.










I tried to crank it up, but the attempted theft ruined the ignition switch it ended up breaking off and I had to remove the lock cylinder in order to unlock the steering. For now I am going to use a universal ignition switch. Here's the broken one:










The charge pipes, wiring and air filter are still pretty unruly, but once I get it running, I'll weld the charge pipes and clean up the wiring.





































I installed the universal ignition and made sure Megasquirt got power, then tried to crank it. It turns over and smells really rich, but won't fire up. It popped a time or two, so I think it has spark, but is just way too rich. I didn't have a chance to check spark today, so maybe tomorrow it'll run. 

If any one knows a good place to find info on trigger angles and cold start settings for this setup, let me know.


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

really not able to work on the car much this week. Only got to try and crank it a few times. The ingnition timing seems to be jumping around and the tach will jump around some, too. I assume this is because the VR sensor wiring is not shielded, so this weekend I twisted two wires together, wrapped them in aluminum foil, then electrical tape. 
I'm going to see if this helps before I order shielded wire, since its hard to come by (at least I can't find much of it around).


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

Spent all day looking for spark. One side of the coil had no output (no spark for cyl #1 & 4). 

Popped open the case on the MS and saw a cooked coil driver. A friend had a spare Bosch BIP373 to replace the VB921. Also spotted a transistor that didn't belong and moved the other coil driver onto the heat sink. It was hot glued to the proto area. 

after all that, still no luck. Since the replacement coil driver was used, I'm going to order another one, but if I can't figure it out soon, I'm just going to build my own MS-2 board, since I don't trust anything the previous owner touched.


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## kamahao112 (Nov 17, 2007)

hey im using the same manifold on my 20v corrado 02m swap  

















good looking rabbit its going to come out dope


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

thanks for the support. I was beginning to wonder if anyone was reading this. 

Right now I think that the PO wired up the MS1 board like it was MS2, so I'm going to redo all the jumper wires as per the instructions for MS1: 

http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Ignition_Hardware_Manual.htm#wheeldecr


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

An eventful day today. 

I worked on the MS board last night, and got spark this morning. One of the plugs was bad, but once I replaced that it started right up! 

A friend came over to help tune and I drove it around while he played with tuner studio. It felt great! 

Managed to get the hood back on just in time to take it home, but before I got out of the parking lot, the timing belt slipped off. This build is back to living up to it's title. 

won't be able to get back in to the garage until monday, so for the next for days I'll just be pining for that sound of the turbo and the way it pulled. 

The belt fell off at idle, so if anyone knows if there's any hope that I don't need a new head, please let me know.


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## 1337le Teapot (Oct 13, 2006)

sadly I think you are hosed man. I have been keeping up with this thread for awhile and it is gut wrenching to hear this... There are a few 1.8t's on CL around town right now for around $500 which is a lot to dump into this car considering how much you have put in already, but it would help to have the spare parts. If it was a VR i would have 2 extra heads laying around I could let you have for cheap.


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

I have less than $500 in my account, and no job, but I WILL get this damn thing running again. After that taste I need it to live. 

The plan is to pull the head and if less than 12 valves are bent, I'll just get new valves.


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## kamahao112 (Nov 17, 2007)

fawking ****ty news bro .. i usually pick up a set of used stock valves here on vortex for about 150 or so .. good luck ....


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

Well it looks like the reason the belt suddenly jumped off was that when I closed the hood, the air filter pushed the timing belt cover into the timing belt. That's why it ran fine without the hood while I was tuning. 

got some photos of the carnage. 









































































3 intake valves are badly bent, it looks like 2 more may be, 4-6 exhaust valves are bent, too. For the ones that may be bent, is there a way to test without taking the valves out?


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## kamahao112 (Nov 17, 2007)

fawking ****ty ... yea there is no way to test to see if the valves are not bent or bent unless you take them out and put them on a valve rinding machine .. i just has a set tested yesterday for a 20v


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

since I have to take them all out, I guess I might try to replace them all. 

Thoughts on used valves? what can really be wrong with used valves aside from them being bent? 
I'm trying to get in touch with someone who's got a set for sale on here.


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## kamahao112 (Nov 17, 2007)

ive used a bunch of used valves ..... i would send you a few but i need them for myself .. i got to rebuild two heads in the next few weeks for customer cars ....


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

I think I've found some decent used valves. I'm planning on replacing head gasket, head bolts and valve guides. Is there anything else I would need to do? Do the seats have to be reground or anything when putting different valves in?


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## Smokestack (Mar 24, 2007)

I'd at least do stem seals and lap the valves. I doubt the stem seals would survive you taking them out to get to the guides. Lapping would match the valve surface to the seat, but nothing beats a good valve job for that if you can float it.


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## heil (Jul 6, 2009)

looking forward to the finished build, keep up the good work. subscribed :!


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

Good news! I got a AEB head from a very generous dude here in Co Springs. All I have to do is bolt it all up tomorrow. 

I would also like to thank my wonderful, understanding girlfriend for putting up with this sort of thing all the time:


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

It runs again! It's back home for the first time in 5 weeks. The gasket for the plastic T that attaches to the head decided to stretch out while the head was off, so it has a pretty serious coolant leak, but I think I'll be able to fix that today and be able to do some tuning. 

Next, I need to get my dash finished so I have some gauges.


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## VIP VR6 Rabbit (Feb 15, 2007)

Badass project :thumbup:


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## smoke screen (Oct 7, 2003)

:thumbup: :beer:


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

I've spent the last week or so taking care of a few coolant and oil leaks, tidying up the wiring and installing a mk2 dash and center console. 



















I had to modify the center console to fit.



















Installed a tach today, so hopefully I'll be able to drive it a bit harder now, but I still need a coolant temp and fuel level gauge


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## doctor12valve (Jul 20, 2005)

Keep up the goodness! Thanks for your help earlier today!

Teaser pics of my wreck...


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

got the tach in. It took a while to wire up to the megasquirt, and I'm not sure why it works the way it is hooked up now, but it does.










the new secret ignition










USB drive vent










shift knob from a 4 speed ford truck (it was laying around)


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## smoke screen (Oct 7, 2003)

glad to see it has come along so well since last i saw you. once i am done working weekends we need to hang out, need to see the rabbit and get a ride. :beer:


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

any time


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

since it looks like I won't be able to spend any more money on the rabbit for quite a while, and I really don't want it to run out of gas and get impounded, I put the stock fuel gauge in temporarily. made a few notes on speed when I passed some of those signs that tell you your speed. It looks like the gearing in the o2j isn't much higher than the stock o2o.










I also modified the mk2 passenger side knee bar to fit. It's not pretty, but it's sturdy and fits well.


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## Smokestack (Mar 24, 2007)

Looks like it's coming along nicely! I know I have a couple of shift knobs laying around. I'll try to dig one out so you can ditch the Ford part.


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

that's part of my ingenious security system, along with the decoy ignition. A thief would never find reverse with that knob on.

Seriously, I would love a golf ball knob, if there's one laying around. I need to weld on an extension to the shifter, too. You have to lean forward to get 3rd.


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

Finally got around to getting an intake manifold that matches the ports on my head. I bought a 'short runner intake' with the hopes of putting in a 3" thick radiator so I could quit running the heat every time i wanted to drive it hard or hit traffic. As you can see, it didn't fit as well as I had hoped:



















Turns out, this 'SRI' had runners that were the same length as stock. It also interfered with the alternator. So, I paid some one to cut and reweld the manifold and bought a spacer to raise the manifold up to clear the alternator. This picture is after the shortening of the runners.










A little black wrinkle paint and a VR throttle body got added to the recipe and here is the result. 




























going to paint the valve cover to match once I get the radiator in and do a timing belt/water pump.


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

Had a chance to get on a dyno. I only had time to do two runs, the first one didn't get recorded and the second had to be aborted due to a boost line popping, but what I did get was promising:










These are uncorrected numbers.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

How much boost were you hitting at torque peak? While those numbers are not shabby for starters they look a little low for a super 60. I hit 200wtq at 2500 and 10psi with my K03 and hold 200+ to just over 5K.


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

Here's boost. This run the line popped, though. The boost controller is set to about 20 PSI 










Here's corrected numbers (which is what you would likely get from your dyno operator) 










Spark is still way retarded, and likely will be for a while since now I have head gasket issues.


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

So, head gasket was not the problem. The seals on the turbo had just gone. I rebuilt the turbo, replaced the oil drain line with one that doesn't leak and connected the crankcase vent to a vacuum line to avoid blowing out the seal again. 

i also got the Griffith radiator modified to fit better:



















i also replaced all vacuum lines with silicone lines, except near the downpipie, where I used stainless braided lines.

Now I'm ready to hit the dyno again.


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## rotundapig (Feb 25, 2010)

oh yeah, $50 racing seat, too:


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## slavik19 (Feb 9, 2010)

exciting


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