# Sticky  020 Manual Swap FAQ/DIY



## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*auto to manual swap questions*

Alright guys....I consolidated this down a lot. *If you see something that was accidentally deleted, or have any new info, please let me know and I will add it.*
-askibum02



_Modified by askibum02 at 2:01 AM 2-4-2009_


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## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: (ayton)*

Just finished one. Not too complicated. Just labor intensive. 








Helps to have a donor. Quite a few parts you need but don't think about until you get started. Like the clutch pedal. The auto has a short shaft just for the brake pedal. Drop the fuse/relay block, move the plastic wire shield out of the way, remove the clip on the right side of the shaft, and pull the shaft out the left side. Then position the clutch pedal, (some people say it is easier to install the cable on this end before installing th pedal) insert the longer shaft through the clutch and brake pedal, and re-install the clip, shield, and fuse/relay block.
You keep the original ECM and disconnect the TCM. Keep me posted on your progress. There are lots of stuff I can't remember right off hand. But I got mine running tike a top. Went from 24 mpg with the sick auto to 36 mpg with the manual.


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## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: (ayton)*

See if you can just swap out the pedal shaft. Will be alot easier than doing the whole cluster. I used the original starter from the auto. Worked with the manual tranny. Just needed to use the shorted starter bolts from the manual donor car. You could always cut the bolts and taper the end.


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## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: (Cyclopath)*

You will also need the stamped metal plate off the manual car. It's 2 piece. Smaller piece comes off so the diff can pass by it during install. 








installed








new pressure plate stretch bolts








release plate installed. Ready for the clutch and flywheel








Finishing touch. Light weight flywheel.


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## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: (ayton)*

The only difference in the starers is the way they mount. Newer auto has a square looking bracket. Both mine was round. Hooked up physically and electrically the same. Like I said, had to use the 2 shorter mounting bolts because the manual bell housing is not as thick as the auto. I've heard of other people having problems, but I didn't have any. I went from a 96 auto to a 95 manual. So the motor mounts, tranny mount, and front motor mount bracked all hooked up perfectly.
Plate was kind of expensive. I gave away the motor in the donor, so I had to buy the plates, pressure plate, flywheel, and a clutch kit. See if you can pull one from a bone yard. I payed almost 80 bucks for the plates.


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## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: (ayton)*

I had to drop the sub frame to get the auto out. Disconnect the top of the ball joint from the steering knuckle. 4 bolts to undo the steering rack. Rear motor mount and tranny mount. 6 bolts to the sub frame and the whole thing falls out. You got the 12 point allen to remove the axle bolts? Bought a 4 piece set 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, & 12mm for 8 bucks. You only need the 8mm.


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## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: (Cyclopath)*

Just thought of another snag for you. The A2 axles will not work in a A3. They are 1/2" too short on each side. You might have to use them as cores to buy remanufactured. They are normally under 60 bucks each.


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## noypiesky (Sep 23, 2003)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (ayton)*

I hope you don't mind me asking questions as I'm doing the same thing on a 95 Golf right now. You said that you acquired a shifter box, is it from an A3 or an A2? The reason I'm asking is that I have an A2 shifter box, but it is a tad wider at the base where it bolts to the 2 holes in the rear of the box. I could trim the base and slot the mounting hole to make it fit. 
The other thing is how to mount the front part of the shifter box as the automatic shifter has a single bolt coming out from the top of the shifter box that goes through a hole on the top of the tunnel and is fixed by a nut. I hope i explained myself clearly. Is the A3 manual shifter box mounted the same as the A3 auto shifter box?


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## johnveronica (Jun 10, 2005)

*Re: (Cyclopath)*

I just finished mounting everything mechanically up And tried to start mine which is a 97 jetta that had a auto tranny in it. It didnt start? Disconected the tcm also. Did you have to wire in the clutch pedal switch? Another thing is i bought this from a kid that started to take the auto out so I couldnt hear it run. With the key in the run position I used my remote starter and it fired up sounded good and checked all gears to make sure everything was ok which it was and was able to shut it off with the key. Got to looking around at all the wires and noticed a bunch of wires cut. They were from the anti theft module. About 3/4 were cut. Anyway to bypass this to see if this is part of the problem? Please help Oh ya my auto starter works great with this swap. John


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## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (noypiesky)*


_Quote, originally posted by *noypiesky* »_I hope you don't mind me asking questions as I'm doing the same thing on a 95 Golf right now. You said that you acquired a shifter box, is it from an A3 or an A2? The reason I'm asking is that I have an A2 shifter box, but it is a tad wider at the base where it bolts to the 2 holes in the rear of the box. I could trim the base and slot the mounting hole to make it fit. 
The other thing is how to mount the front part of the shifter box as the automatic shifter has a single bolt coming out from the top of the shifter box that goes through a hole on the top of the tunnel and is fixed by a nut. I hope i explained myself clearly. Is the A3 manual shifter box mounted the same as the A3 auto shifter box?









not at all: thats how we all learn!
anyway I got a manual shifter box from an A2, I heard they mount slightly different but it can work. I figured if I had to make a bracket or two it wouldnt kill me to get that mounted its a simple enough assembly.
The mounting to the rack is the reason why I got the manual rack. I was told it had all of the correct mounting holes.


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## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (ayton)*

To get mine to start, I cheated the park/neutral switch. Find the straight 6 pin plug that use to go to the auto transmission. Then jumper or short 1 to3 and 4 to 6. Doesn't matter which end you start in, it will be the same. Got mine done like that just temporarily. Need to figure out the back-up lights. The plug that fits the back-up switch on the manual tranny is not for the back-up lights. 
From what I have heard, the A2 shifter assembly will not work on a A3. They say it is different in length. Let me know if it does work. I don't want to be putting bogus info out.


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## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (ayton)*

Jumpered the wires and it started right up for me. Everyone was amazed.







Got it looking like it came from the factory as a manual. Trying to get the wife to clean it up alittle inside. Will replace the drivers knee pad and stuff after I do the back-up wiring. And I just bought a lower glove box.


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## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (ayton)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ayton* »_did you swap out your cluster?

Nope. Original cluster. There's nothing to swap except for the drivetrain. Original cluster, ECM, brake pedal, Throttle body, starter (in my case), motor mounts and brackets, tranny mount.


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## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (noypiesky)*

I used whatever bolts were already with the manual axles. The joy of having a complete donor for parts. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif If needbe, they shouldn't cost that much from the stealership. I was considering buying new just for S&Gs. But I thought the auto bolts were longer.


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## noypiesky (Sep 23, 2003)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (ayton)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ayton* »_well after some snags with my daily, I finally dug into the car today I managed to remove "all" of the bolts for the tranny but, it didnt drop? I wonder if I missed something...I pulled a 19mm from the rear, the 2 starter bolts, another 19 from the top rear and the top tranny bracket bolt....did I miss something? help







I really dont want to drop the sub frame...that seems like the long way









If I remember it right, there are 2 19 mm bolts on top. one 19 mm bolt in the rear and the two starter bolts. To make it easier, I had to remove the entire transmission support arm, rotate the transmission upwards, and used a pry bar to pry the transmission from the engine. You did remember to remove the 3(?) torque converter bolts.


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## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (Cyclopath)*

Speed Sensor plug: Pin 1 (yellow wire) goes to pin 65 on the TCM. Pin 2 (white wire) goes to pin 20 on the TCM. Find these two wires as they enter the firewall. Cut and splice into the wires coming out of Pin 4 and 5 (both black/blue wires) on relay 150. Should work. The Golf is with my son in Tennessee and I am in Maine. So I can't try this myself.


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## Motomania (Mar 26, 2005)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (ayton)*

did you figure out whitch was the reverse lights on the auto to make it work with the 5 speed


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## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (ayton)*

found this rather helpful thread today by accident...explains much of what I was refering to on the speedo gear.
http://www.brokevw.com/reverseswitch.html































_Modified by ayton at 11:00 AM 9-15-2006_


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## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (Skot53)*

its called an engine support...I used my engine hoist and some rachet tie downs to raise and lower the motor.
good deal on the speed sensor...I should have been a bit more frugal but I got the car cheap enough so whatever


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## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (ayton)*

Small update:
I put in all the sensors today on the "motor side" of things.
I put the reverse switch in place and put the speed sensor in.
A quick note on the mk3 speed sensor; the metal mounting bracket that comes on it has a downward curve that would not allow it to sit flat against the tranny.
I took it off and flipped it over so the curve pointed up (with a little prying from a flat screwdriver) BE VERY CAREFUL IF YOU HAVE TO DO THIS! If you dont watch your hand you can snap the plastic speedo gear. I did mine fine. just a word of caution.
had to grind the corner of the bracket a bit for reinstallation on the speedo; just enough to round off one of the corners.
If you ever attempt to do this you will see what I mean.
I also changed the coolant flange today and re routing the coolant hoses was simple.
It looked harder than it was, I didnt have to buy anything special either.
I had a length of 3/4 in hose and I used about 16-18 inches to tie the coolant bottle back into the coolant pipe coming from the heater core.
DONE. 
It looks very clean and since it was roll bought hose it had some curve already in it...no kinks or sharp bends to worry about. 
This weekend I put in the pedal cluster, shift linkage and shift cable.
Sorry I'm so slow at this guys but its more of a self tutorial side project not a definative need to finish now mode of transportation.
tune in for the next installment









_Modified by ayton at 6:47 PM 4-14-2006_


_Modified by ayton at 12:38 PM 4-17-2006_


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## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (Skot53)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Skot53* »_cool, i was wondering about that shifter box... Some pics would help







... Is it possible to find another way of securing the box to the floor? Like, self-tapping sheet metal screws or something? Just want to know what i'm in for...

I can take a pic of the auto shifter box for reference. 
You shouldn't need to use any self tapping screws because all chassis are the same. Just the parts are different, so I suspect the shift relay tower will support the rest of the mechanism.
keep in mind that, the gap I speak of is only like 2 mm, so once the rest is bolted up it should be no problem.








I went back in today and put the pedals together with minimal cussing








it definitely is easier to replace the shaft (even though getting the original one out is no real cake walk) 
Get yourself a work light if you dont have one. Forget about the round bulb type get a 12in halogen. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
It really help to have a clear view of what your doing. 
I should have the clutch cable hooked up by tommorrow evening after work, then I tackle the wiring stuff.
I will have to get a new exhaust when I'm done with all of this







....mo money mo money mo money


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## vwnut18t (Jun 5, 2004)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (ayton)*

I am going through a swap myself on my 96 golf Harlequin and I am finding what you are doing is good for me to read. You are a few steps ahead of me so I know what to expect. I realized my tranny had 90 mm axle flanges so I just changed them over to 100mm. It cost me $81 and some change for the two flanges and springs and a reseal kit for each side. Keep up the posts http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I am finding BROKE is the man for all the DIY's he has put up. Has answered all my questions so far.


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## vwnut18t (Jun 5, 2004)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (ayton)*

Hey how did you get the brake pedal off? I am doing that now and have fiddled with it for about 30 min and decided to stop before I started cursing







Just curious so I can get mine off. And the two little bolts that are on top of the shifter housing is what holds the center column on http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (vwnut18t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwnut18t* »_Hey how did you get the brake pedal off? I am doing that now and have fiddled with it for about 30 min and decided to stop before I started cursing







Just curious so I can get mine off. And the two little bolts that are on top of the shifter housing is what holds the center column on http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I didn't take the brake pedal off. 
I messed with it for about 45 minutes and like I said when I went back I just decided it wasn't worth the trouble.
just swap the shafts....it's way easier and there is no detrimental effect to running the larger brake pedal.
Don't bother trying to take those two bolts off...that still wont help you. You would have to drop more than that. 
Its not worth dropping the dash and steering column to get the brake pedal swapped...trust me.
I read other experiences and tried it and in the end I took the advice.
I got stone walled at the dealer yesterday...I needed some small items that they did not have in stock and need to order so no work on the car yesterday.
The clutch cable install kit (locks the cable to the tranny arm) and the timing inspection plug on the transmission. 








work will progress when I get this stuff in...











_Modified by ayton at 9:25 PM 4-12-2006_


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## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Today's "progress"*

well; I got my stuff in and decided to dive in. After wrestling with the damn clutch pedal I decided it was easier to put the clutch cable on before connecting the pedal to the cluster.
That means I undid previous work and did it again. 
I did discover a problem with todays work though, it seems as though I am missing the firewall grommet for the cable. 
Soooooo, out it all comes again when I get that. 
I absolutely dread going to the dealer as they never have anything I need; I'm on a perpetual 2 day wait everytime....
I did make some other progress with cleaning up my engine bay.
the wires there were a mess, cuts splices and frayed coverings.
I pulled it all cleaned them free of grease and dirt, and applied new electrical tape, friction tape and/or plastice loom where needed and required along with fresh zip ties.







(every volks owners friend)
I found this thread after my night of frustration...help for anyone attempting this for the first time.
And just so you know the cable connects to the "first" hook on the pedal (the slot closest to the fire wall)
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1569293
thats all until I get this stuff...


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## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: Today's "progress" (ayton)*

Sounds like alot of progress. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif For some reason, this post hasn't been showing up on my current history. So you probably feel I've abandoned you. Sorry. Did you already find the hole through the firewall for the cable? It's pre-cut, but still in place. Just got to punch it out. If you have the old cable off a donor, the plastic cable guide that attaches to the firewall may already be attatched to the rubber gommet. I didn't see it on mine, so I bought one from the stealership. Wasted 15 bucks. If you were local, I'd give it to you. Plastic guise installs from the engine side. Plugs into the hole and twists to lock.


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## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: Today's "progress" (Cyclopath)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cyclopath* »_Sounds like alot of progress. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif For some reason, this post hasn't been showing up on my current history. So you probably feel I've abandoned you. Sorry. Did you already find the hole through the firewall for the cable? It's pre-cut, but still in place. Just got to punch it out. If you have the old cable off a donor, the plastic cable guide that attaches to the firewall may already be attatched to the rubber gommet. I didn't see it on mine, so I bought one from the stealership. Wasted 15 bucks. If you were local, I'd give it to you. Plastic guise installs from the engine side. Plugs into the hole and twists to lock. 

Thanks!
no abandonment at all you have been there to help me through IM http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
the hole was there already exposed the PO used it for running wires for a sound system install. I guess I'm going to blow $15 bucks today unless you want to ship it to me,if you have time? after the cable gets reinstalled the car will be ready to get the axles and get dropped back on the wheels.
question...on the shifter box I see no frontal mounting point?








the box itself has four mounting holes on the bottom; the rear two accept bolts from underneath.
what happens to the front two?
the auto shifter had a single front top bolt as well as the underneath mounting points.
is there a bracket I'm missing?
I can rig something up if necessary, just wondering.








Anyone reading this, its not really that hard just labor intensive as anyone thats done this can tell you








It is fun though 








Cyclopath you have an IM. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by ayton at 11:52 PM 4-17-2006_


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## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: Today's "progress" (ayton)*

I would disconnect the linkage from the tranny and after the tranny is out, remove the 3 bolts that hold the linkage to the steering rack. Then assemble in reverse. We did just the oposite and stripped the bolts. Not alot of room to work in with the tranny in the way. Then trying to line everything up and get the bolts started again with the tranny in the way was a real PITA.


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## Skot53 (May 15, 2005)

*Re: Today's "progress" (Cyclopath)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cyclopath* »_I would disconnect the linkage from the tranny and after the tranny is out, remove the 3 bolts that hold the linkage to the steering rack. Then assemble in reverse. We did just the oposite and stripped the bolts. Not alot of room to work in with the tranny in the way. Then trying to line everything up and get the bolts started again with the tranny in the way was a real PITA. 

Noted. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Thanks for the tip- it seemed like that is what i should do. I was at the junkyard with some buddies this weekend looking for Subaru stuff, and i was looking at a Jetta. I commented to my friend how easy the linkage was to get to after the motor and tranny is removed...


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## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: Today's "progress" (Skot53)*

Getting the flywheel bolts out won't be too much of a problem. They look like they would take a special socket. But a regular 12 point socket will fit it. And they are on with just 15-18 foot pounds. But the pressure plate bolts are wicked tight. Put one of the flywheel bolts back in. Then run one of the bellhousing bolts through a box end wrench and thread it back into the block. Then catch the flywheel bolt with the open end of the wrench. It will hold everything in place while you wrestle the pressure plate bolts out. Blurry picture is installing the new bolts. Just the reverse for removal. 











_Modified by Cyclopath at 9:53 PM 4-26-2006_


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## vwnut18t (Jun 5, 2004)

*Re: (ayton)*

An impact gun works well to remove the bolts from the preasure plate as well! 
Well I put the 16valve axles in today and wow what a difference. The car runs ALOT smoother now. I think my axle issue is solved but only time will tell. My engine light is still on and my thermostat still doesnt work, but the car runs like a top for 105,000 miles on it. I solved the gauge issue by installing aftermarket gauges







Oil preasure, water temp and just for fun a volt meter http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I found my digi camera so I will get some pics thursday and I will post a few








If anybody needs it I have a complete 5spd pedal cluster for sale!
-Adam


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## Skot53 (May 15, 2005)

*Re: Today's "progress" (vwnut18t)*

Help! I went all out today and worked my butt off, doing all of the teardown and installation in one day. I was hoping to have it running tonight, but it won't even turn over. I jumped 1to3 and 4to6; and disconnected the transmission computer under the drivers side rear seat. Whenever i go to start the car the throttle body makes a noise that my friend says is "Throttle Body Adaptation". Anyway- do you have any ideas?
EDIT- OH! and i almost forgot. On the part of the wiring harness that used to go to the auto tranny, there are 4 plugs- the one that is straight 6 with the jumpers- the one that is several small wires, probably for the tranny computer; than two of the two prong connectors. There is one that will go to the manual transmission, but i am unsure which one to hook up, since they both fit.
Another EDIT- I found out today that the car performs a throttle body adaptation every time the battery is disconnected than reconnected and the car is turned to on. Until the car actually starts, the throttle body will contine to make a warbled high pitched squeel, that kinda sounds like a fuel pump on a GM










_Modified by Skot53 at 11:11 AM 4-30-2006_


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## vwnut18t (Jun 5, 2004)

*Re: Today's "progress" (Skot53)*

the only thing you should be able to plug in is the speed sensor and it is not in the tranny wire bundle. There is one plug that has six wires and two that have two wires each and then the black skinny plug. that is four harnesses. the one you need to mess with is the six wire one and thats the one with the wires to jump. all other harnesses can be tucked away http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif make sure you got the correct wires to jump.1&3 from left to right or 1&3 from right to left







double check. Read off the wire colors to me and I may be able to tell you which ones go where. Also make sure you have all your ground wires hooked up, I know that sounds stupid but it is easy to overlook.


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## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: Today's "progress" (vwnut18t)*

For some vehicles, the 1-3 and 4-6 doesn't work. Remove these jumpers and try jumping 1-6. Keep the tranny computer unplugged. Don't need it anymore.


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## Skot53 (May 15, 2005)

*Re: Today's "progress" (Cyclopath)*

Bummer. Jumping 1to6 didn't work either. I also checked my grounds







. So, i wrote down all of the colors, just to make sure my head is screwed on straight- I WAS jumping
1 (Y w/ Blu stripe) to 3 (Black) and 
4 (Brn) to 6 (R w/ Y stripe) -- Didn't turn over. 
So, then i tried to jump
1 (Y w/ Blu stripe) to 6 (R w/ Y stripe)
Still didn't turn over. I checked all of my connections in the engine, and tried to be as nice as possible in the fuse box area... Possibly i wiggled a relay loose under there. I'll go look. Any more suggestions would be really helpful! 
I took a lot of pictures during the whole process, so if you guys help get my car running, i'll give you that as a "Prize"







(In reality, i am trying to get going and don't care about no stinking pics...)


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## Skot53 (May 15, 2005)

*Re: Today's "progress" (Skot53)*

Okay, Earlier i was reading around and i heard some mention about the reverse lights wiring and jumping certain wires to the park/neutral relay, also known as the 150 relay. where is this located, becuase i looked at the fuse box and didn't see and 150 relay... Perhaps it was removed? pictures of the relay in question would be helpful....


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## vwnut18t (Jun 5, 2004)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (ayton)*

Ayton here are the pics of the tranny mount. I couldnt really get closer but the shift linkage hooks to the mount and the mount bolts to the side of the transmission with three bolts. There should be three holes around the diff housing.
















Hope this helps. I had to use a big pry bar to move the tranny around in order to get the bolt stabbed and driven in.


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## vwman099 (Sep 27, 2002)

*Re: (ayton)*

Has anyone verified that the 150 relay for the reverse lights does the job? I think on either page 1 or 2 someone mentioned it.
I am now getting to this point in my swap.
Thanks, its been a pita.


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## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: (vwman099)*

Might try to wrap this up tonight. Thinking shorting pin 60 and 65 (yellow and white wires) on the TCM harness. Then short the two black with blue stripe wires off the neutral /park switch. Then find the white (other end of the TCM white wire) and black wire (from F8S to short out to apply the power to the switch and eventually to the back-up lights. Sound about right?


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## vwman099 (Sep 27, 2002)

*Re: (Cyclopath)*

I verified my thoughts by checking the resistance on the reverse switch. Switch is open while in reverse. Closed when not in reverse. (Of course, the bentley shows it too).
So just need a switched power and the reverse light wire. 
I would test some of the TCM wires for power when the car is one, but I am waiting on a few parts.
Are you able to verify any of the powered wires from the TCM? I don't have a problem tapping into the headlight harness for switched power.



_Modified by vwman099 at 11:33 AM 5-17-2006_


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## vwman099 (Sep 27, 2002)

*Re: (vwman099)*

I have verified that the Blue/Black wire on the taillight harness is the backup. The backup lights are already grounded.



_Modified by vwman099 at 12:11 PM 5-19-2006_


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## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (vwman099)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwman099* »_I spent quite a bit of time dealing with the return spring for the pedal. I ended up compressing it in the bench vise, strapping it with wire ties, and cutting the ties once I put it in. Maybe I didn't get the trick to doing this....


That is exactly what I did







its a good thing you posted that I totally forgot about that it will save someone a lot of time in the furure! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (vwman099)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwman099* »_Did you drop the whole subframe?
I took off the tierods (busted one in the process), removed the lower ball joints, and took off all of the motor/tranny mounts and brackets.....

No didn't have to...i'm doing control arms because mine were SHOT! the center of the drivers side was completely detached. Just an FYI the R32 rear control arm bushings are HOT http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif MUCH easier install and they still seem very stiff and pliable.


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## vwman099 (Sep 27, 2002)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (ayton)*

Did you remove the pedal cluster? I didn't and couldn't imagine doing it.
I pulled the "short" rod out of the car and replaced with the long one. In order to do that I had to cut the plastic trim to the left of the rod. Not sure how you approached that. I think I have a few hours of time spent under the dash.
That clutch pedal is something I try to forget.... I still need to put another "clip" on the end of the rod. The automatic rod only has one clip, the manual has one on each end. I had to go to the dealership to order another and now I can't get the it on.......


_Modified by vwman099 at 11:11 PM 5-25-2006_


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## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (vwman099)*

I removed the plastic shield then stuck my son under the dash to do the clutch pedal and spring. He came out 10 minutes later and said he was done. Was right in the middle of telling him it might be a PITA. Didn't believe him until I crawled under the dash and checked for myself. Can't imagine swapping out the whole pedal cluster. I personally don't care if the brake pedal is alittle wider.


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## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (Cyclopath)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cyclopath* »_I removed the plastic shield then stuck my son under the dash to do the clutch pedal and spring. He came out 10 minutes later and said he was done. Was right in the middle of telling him it might be a PITA. Didn't believe him until I crawled under the dash and checked for myself. Can't imagine swapping out the whole pedal cluster. I personally don't care if the brake pedal is alittle wider. 

I hear YOU! I originally tried to do it but it just wasn't necessary or practical...the cluster is really wrapped around stuff under there. Check the early part of the thread vwman099 many of your questions are answered there. rhyme and reason behind the swap.


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## vwman099 (Sep 27, 2002)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (ayton)*

cyclopath, saw you posted in the mk3 issues thread.... and I remembered I needed to reply....
Well I determined that my reverse switch was malfunctioning.... Sometimes it would allow current through even when it was not in reverse. So I ordered a new one from fap99 and tested the switch. As I thought, when reverse is in gear the switch closes, and vice versa.
So I used the switched power coming from the 6 pin connector (the same on jumpered from the auto tranny harness) to power one side of the reverse switch. Then I hooked a wire to the other side of the switch and pulled it through the firewall down to the driver's side kick panel. Which is where you can find the two blue/black wires, one is in a smaller loom (going to rear of the car) and one is in the larger loom going to the TCM harness. I patched that wire (from the reverse switch) into the blue/black wire on the rear harness which goes to the reverse lights. The reverse lights are grounded at the light, so no issues there....
Things I realize: I didn't get to determine the exact source of the current for the 6 pin harness, so I'm not sure how much amperage the wiring is fused for.... For now I needed a quick fix, but I'm sure you can tap into one of the park or light sources in at the fuse panel or by the front lights harness. For as little as the lights are used, I'll take my chances.
From what I understand, the Relay that controls the reverse lights is tied into the TCM. One of the blue/black wires runs to the relay at the fuse panel, then the other goes to the TCM to activate or deactivate the relay as needed..... Cyclopath, I think thats what you were getting at.
You probably could just provide power to one of the old TCM wires at the tranny, and then just splice it over into the reverse lights.... Thus, elminating the need to pull a wire.


_Modified by vwman099 at 10:43 PM 6-5-2006_


----------



## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (vwman099)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwman099* »_
So I used the switched power coming from the 6 pin connector (the same on jumpered from the auto tranny harness) to power one side of the reverse switch. 
_Modified by vwman099 at 10:43 PM 6-5-2006_

This is part of my thinking process also...the two wires left over after jumping (I left loose ) so that I could tinker with the reverse after I get the car going, I'm putting an exahuast together for it now.


----------



## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (ayton)*

Anyone with the P1613 error code, I got an easy fix for you. Find a friend with a laptop with the VAG-COM program installed. Need to change the transmission code in the ECM from auto to manual. Piece of cake for anyone who has and knows how to run the program. You're changing the code from 00001 to 00000.
To recode go to 11 (log-on) and enter 01283. Click [Do It!], than go to 07 Recode and enter the software codeing of your original ECU. check for typos than click [Do It!]. 
For the record known codeings for 037 906 259 are: 
;00000 Golf Jetta Manual trans TIER 1 
;00001 Golf Jetta Auto Trans TIER 1 
;00002 Cabrio manual trans 
;00003 Cabrio auto trans 
;00004 Golf Jetta Cabrio manual trans TLEV 
;00005 Golf Jetta Cabrio auto trans TLEV 
;00006 Passat with manual trans. 
;00007 Passat with auto trans. 
NB: ECU will not use the new codeing utill the ignition has been cycled once.


----------



## midwestjetta (Apr 23, 2005)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (Cyclopath)*

hey, i was just wondering if someone could give me a short overview of everything i need to swap in a manual
i can get the short ratio trans from a mk2 with axels and everything for cheap, and i was told it would bolt right in


----------



## vwnut18t (Jun 5, 2004)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (midwestjetta)*

The trans will work, you just need to get the proper mkIII mount. The pedal assembly will have to come from a mkIII though. I have a complete peddal cluster if you need it. $75 shipped and its yours. You will have to get mkIII mounts though if your car is infact the 98 gls. The axles are close in sizes but believe me you have to get the propper size for your application. Read through the entire thread and you will see everything you will need to know about the swap. I am sure we will all chime in if you have further questions.


----------



## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (vwnut18t)*

Tranny will bolt right in with your MKIII mount. No problem. The MKII axles will not work. You will need MKIII. Find out what the tranny code code is, and I can tell you what flange size and what the final spindle size is. You may or may not need to swap out the flanges on the tranny diff to match the axles. Not a big deal, but you don't want to be surprised when you get into it. Clutch pedal, cable, linkage, and shifter will have to be MKIII.


----------



## midwestjetta (Apr 23, 2005)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (Cyclopath)*

can you use the axles that are on the car with the automatic?
or are the axles for a manual longer/shorter


----------



## vwnut18t (Jun 5, 2004)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (midwestjetta)*

No you cant use the automatic axles. They mount differently than the 5spd axles. You will need to get different axles. If it is a standard tranny with 100mm axle cups then just ask the parts store for axles for your year car. Unless you have a doner car then you can swap everything over.


----------



## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (ayton)*

The white and yellow wire is covered with a black insulation. So it looks like a large black wire. There's 2 of the large black wires. Both are not used after the swap. So cut into them. If you get the red and green wire first, cut into the second one. It will be the white and yellow. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (Cyclopath)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cyclopath* »_The white and yellow wire is covered with a black insulation. So it looks like a large black wire. There's 2 of the large black wires. Both are not used after the swap. So cut into them. If you get the red and green wire first, cut into the second one. It will be the white and yellow. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I cut into into it and believe me it was not there ...inside the car.







I went through all of them looking and it just was not there so I went the other way...it works so I'm happy!










_Modified by ayton at 10:57 AM 9-15-2006_


----------



## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: (5speedT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *5speedT* »_Did you ever have a problem after the 5 speed swap with your brake pedal switch? After my swap I dont have brake lights? The switch sits like 2 inches away from the pedal.

I kept the original auto brake pedal. Alot easier than swapping out the whole cluster and doesn't create new problems. I've driven cars with auto and manual brake pedals. Didn't notice any difference. And I have a size 12 shoe.


----------



## vwman099 (Sep 27, 2002)

*Re: (Cyclopath)*

and I thought I busted something on my brake light switch. 
To fix it, I first bent the bracket a bit and then I plastic welded some material onto the end of the switch.
Maybe I did break something? But it has worked for the past 6 months.


----------



## moder13 (Jan 17, 2005)

*Re: (ayton)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ayton* »_
flush and fill the tranny with fresh lubricant and also do the seals. GAP sells a "kit" for like $50
For the $250 you already have it will get you the clutch kit and the above stated install kit.
may as well do the flange seals also....another $25 or so for both sides.









thanks ayton


----------



## Jg022 (Sep 11, 2006)

*Re: (moder13)*

having a complete donor car....what do you guys recommend i buy new, such as seals, new parts that will likely be too worn, etc. Apart from the parts from the donor, will i need to buy anything else as replacements?
i'm only going to have a max of 3 days to do the swap so i don't wanna run into a small problem because i don't have the time to order something and wait for it to come in, so i just want to be prepared ahead of time.


----------



## vwman099 (Sep 27, 2002)

*Re: (Jg022)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jg022* »_
i'm only going to have a max of 3 days to do the swap so i don't wanna run into a small problem because i don't have the time to order something and wait for it to come in, so i just want to be prepared ahead of time.

Stuff that took me the most time was messing with putting the clutch cable in and dealing with a couple of bolts I broke which set me back a day. It took me 4 days because I had to wait on some parts I had overnighted.


----------



## Jg022 (Sep 11, 2006)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (ayton)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ayton* »_
I also changed the coolant flange today and re routing the coolant hoses was simple.
It looked harder than it was, I didnt have to buy anything special either.
I had a length of 3/4 in hose and I used about 16-18 inches to tie the coolant bottle back into the coolant pipe coming from the heater core.
DONE. 
It looks very clean and since it was roll bought hose it had some curve already in it...no kinks or sharp bends to worry about. 


Is this the part i'll be needing? 
http://www.germanautoparts.com...117/7
(the one for a manual transmission)
I don't really understand what you are rerouting since you are taking away the auto tranny, and putting in a manual tranny which doesnt need the coolant flowing through it. I though you would just be left without that hose nor a place to plug them into.
more details/help?


----------



## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (Jg022)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jg022* »_
Is this the part i'll be needing? 
http://www.germanautoparts.com...117/7
(the one for a manual transmission)
I don't really understand what you are rerouting since you are taking away the auto tranny, and putting in a manual tranny which doesnt need the coolant flowing through it. I though you would just be left without that hose nor a place to plug them into.
more details/help?









Yes that is the part you will be needing.
Basically as far as re-routing what you are actually doing is doing away with one of the outputs on the coolant flange.
You have a line in and out of the tranny cooler on the AUTO but when you convert to manual you no longer need those lines so instead of the coolant bottle feeding the tranny cooler BACK into the head you just go from coolant bottle back to the pipe.


----------



## Jg022 (Sep 11, 2006)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (ayton)*

I have a donor manual car...could i take the coolant flange from that one and put it into my car for the time being? Shipping the part to get here by saturday (tomorrow) is going to cost ~40 for a $10 item.
I have a full auto shop to do the swap in but i have to be gone before monday so i'm trying to see if i can just swap the part from the donor or will removing it and putting it on a different car weaken the seal too much?


----------



## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (Jg022)*

Just connect the two hoses from the tranny cooler together. Piece of pipe inside the tubing and two clamps. That's whet we did when the cooler crapped the bed.


----------



## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (Cyclopath)*

you can swap the flange from the donor as long as the O ring is good you"ll be fine. its plastic just make sure you dont wrench on it too hard or it will crack on you


----------



## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (Jg022)*

Hahaha. I know what you mean about the camera. After I got started, my hands were so dirty, I wasn't about to touch my camera. Wish I had the wife document it. I'd be a superstar.







Pretty much did the swap with no prior knowledge of what I was doing. One of the early pioneers. Ran into all kinds of snags. Hopefully I and alot of other people have shared every possible problem you can run into. I dropped the subframe to remove the auto tranny. Throwing the manual in from the bottom with the help of a ATV/motorcycle lift was a piece of cake. Got a crap-ton of tools. Plus a compressor. I would not recomend swapping out the whole pedal assembly. Unless you have alot of patience and time. Just pull the short shaft out, and throw the longer manual shaft in with the clutch pedal.


----------



## vwman099 (Sep 27, 2002)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (Jg022)*

that's the tranny bracket right? 
etka has: 1hm199353B


----------



## Jg022 (Sep 11, 2006)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (vwman099)*

Hmm i just found it on 1stvwparts....but:
Engine / transaxle - Engine and trans mounting - Mount - Bracket Left
Manual trans 1995 - 1999
Engine / transaxle - Engine mounting - Mount - Bracket Left
Manual trans - 2.0 liter 1993 - 1994
Engine / transaxle - Engine mounting - Mount - Bracket Rear
Manual trans - 4 cylinder gas 1996 - 1999
What are the dif's in these parts, they are the same part number (1HM199353B) ...some are left and some are rear and they are for different years


----------



## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (Jg022)*

they are all the same ...if you have access to an MK2 you can use that one too


----------



## Jg022 (Sep 11, 2006)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (FastTurbo 2.0)*

MAN that plastic piece between the pedals and all the wires/fusebox is such a crap-ass m'effer....it wasnt that hard to take it out on the donor car, i dunno why my car hates me.


----------



## FastTurbo 2.0 (Mar 24, 2004)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (Jg022)*

just pry it out w a screwdriver.


----------



## Jg022 (Sep 11, 2006)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (FastTurbo 2.0)*

Well, got the clutch pedal in today...sorta....the only difficult parts was taking out the plastic cover thing, because i didnt realize that there was a clip on the top also holding the cables, so i kept pulling and nothing.
Also i'm having trouble figuring out the spring and where it mounts on the car (not the pedal)...for now its in somehow but i'm pretty sure thats not how its supposed to go in.
overall, i spent about 5 hours doing it all, including going to home depot to buy a work lamp and some zipties for the spring, and also didnt have my bentley with me because i left it at the shop








So if anyone wants to be nice and scan/post the page dealing with the spring so i can see how that goes.


----------



## FastTurbo 2.0 (Mar 24, 2004)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (Jg022)*

If you look at the very top of the bracket for the pedal assembly ontop where the clutch pedal sits youll see a small notch cutout. There is a white nylon pivot that is supposed to be there for the pedal to sit into, the end of the spring that has the protuding pivot(bottom), then the top part of the spring rides on the peal arm.


----------



## Jg022 (Sep 11, 2006)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (FastTurbo 2.0)*

Yea i know the white nylon "groove" sits in on the pedal side, and on the wall there is a metal bracket that sorta pops out with a notch cutout in it but the notch is smaller than the stub on the spring.


----------



## FastTurbo 2.0 (Mar 24, 2004)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (Jg022)*

sent IM


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## vwman099 (Sep 27, 2002)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (Jg022)*

I used a piece of gum to hold the plastic piece onto the seat in the firewall. and I compressed the spring assembly in a vice and strapped it with a wire tire.
there is a pic of it further down on this page:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...age=5


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## swingwing205 (Jun 13, 2001)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (midwestjetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *midwestjetta* »_
but i did notice on my car (auto) theres a big blac box that the cable goes into on the firewall
but on GAP the manual cable does not have that box

That big black box on the throttle cable you're talking about is called the "kickdown switch". On a manual car, although it's not used, that's a good thing to have, because if you ever get the "baelle" to run NOS, then you could use that as your NOS switch, kind of like a wide open throttle switch. It only works if you floor the gas pedal. 
This is something I'm probably going to do myself, very convienient, just run your wire and use the old connector (you're not going to use it anyway, since that connector ran to the TCU for the auto you're replacing). That is if you're going to run NOS only with the throttle wide open....


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## Kaptain KMAN (Jun 26, 2006)

hey guys,
made a post last year about doing an auto to manual swap.
Its going to be a definate go this summer.
however, unlike all of you, i'm going to have to do this one in the parking lot infront of my student townhouse.
I'm going to harvest everything i can from a scrap yard once the snow clears, then order anything new that i may need. 
hopefully get the car as prepped as possible one weekend, (do everything i can without rendering the car immobile) 
and get the swap done the next weekend.
I got 4 day weekends all summer term.
other thank jacks, stands and the basic sockets/wrenches, what special tools do I need?


----------



## Jg022 (Sep 11, 2006)

*Re: (Kaptain KMAN)*

You'll need your bentley...as for things that you can get out of the way, you can install the clutch pedal and cable (which is where i'm at now, due to the cold weather) and just ziptie the clutch cable out of the way. Currently i press the pedal to switch from D, N, R, and 1 2 3....so i have my fun for now...
_10 Pages WOO_


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## midwestjetta (Apr 23, 2005)

*Re: auto to manual swap questions (swingwing205)*


_Quote, originally posted by *swingwing205* »_That big black box on the throttle cable you're talking about is called the "kickdown switch". On a manual car, although it's not used, that's a good thing to have, because if you ever get the "baelle" to run NOS, then you could use that as your NOS switch, kind of like a wide open throttle switch. It only works if you floor the gas pedal. 
This is something I'm probably going to do myself, very convienient, just run your wire and use the old connector (you're not going to use it anyway, since that connector ran to the TCU for the auto you're replacing). That is if you're going to run NOS only with the throttle wide open....

so is it absolutely nessecary on a auto? what does it do?


----------



## Kaptain KMAN (Jun 26, 2006)

*Re: (Jg022)*

are there any pics of the clutch pedal mounting?
this sounds easy enough, and i might try to get this done this weekend if i have time. 
I think i used the clutch-cable hole in the firewall for my stereo amp wiring when I put that in a few years ago.
I guess i'll have to re-route that.


----------



## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: (Kaptain KMAN)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Kaptain KMAN* »_are there any pics of the clutch pedal mounting?
this sounds easy enough, and i might try to get this done this weekend if i have time. 
I think i used the clutch-cable hole in the firewall for my stereo amp wiring when I put that in a few years ago.
I guess i'll have to re-route that. 

Page 3 of this thread. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: (MRosier)*

Bought a running rust bucket for 300. Made the mistake of giving the engine away with the fly wheel attached. So I bought a clutch kit with new bolts and a lightweight flywheel. New stamped steel plates between the engine and tranny. Coolant flange, and clutch cable. Sold off the rest of the car and practically did the swap for free. 








Looks good, but my floor jack went through the rocker panel and into the rear seat.










_Modified by Cyclopath at 10:17 PM 2-5-2007_


----------



## vwman099 (Sep 27, 2002)

*Re: (Cyclopath)*

My parts list comes to around 750 with new clutch kit, new clutch cable, and a new axle. I probably could've done it for 650, but I ran into the usual unexpected things.


----------



## Kaptain KMAN (Jun 26, 2006)

If i can't find a donor car, i'll probably take most of my parts off a car at the wreckers. Its a good experience to dissassemble a car that you don't have any attachment too. 
My plan is to get the 5spd tranny soon, and clean it up inside during the winter, buy a new clutch and light flywheel, and be ready to do the swap once the snow is gone.
If you find a good wreckers, you can get parts really cheap, and you don't have the hastle of bringing in a donor, although, i recognize the advantage of having one.


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## MRosier (Sep 17, 2006)

im in the middle of the swap right now, anyone know what the wire is for (grouping of 6 different colored wires) that comes up into the console from the rear and attaches to the automatic shift box is for? We cut it off to drop the auto shift box, do I just tie it back? Is is part of the park/neutral safety switch? TIA


----------



## moder13 (Jan 17, 2005)

*Re: (MRosier)*

hey guys. i ripped the engine/tranny out of the donor car today. starting to get everything else together. so the linkage and everything will fit in my car without any real modification?


----------



## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: (MRosier)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MRosier* »_im in the middle of the swap right now, anyone know what the wire is for (grouping of 6 different colored wires) that comes up into the console from the rear and attaches to the automatic shift box is for? We cut it off to drop the auto shift box, do I just tie it back? Is is part of the park/neutral safety switch? TIA

just tie them back or go crazy and pull them out like cyclopath did








I just snipped mine back and taped them off.

_Quote, originally posted by *moder13* »_hey guys. i ripped the engine/tranny out of the donor car today. starting to get everything else together. so the linkage and everything will fit in my car without any real modification? 

No modifications just line the stuff up and bolt it up.


----------



## moder13 (Jan 17, 2005)

*Re: (ayton)*

thanks ayton. i got everything out of the donor car. the only thing i cant figure out is the metal piece going through the clutch cable hole. 


_Modified by moder13 at 5:00 PM 4-1-2007_


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## MRosier (Sep 17, 2006)

just finished the swap on my car today. started right up with pins 1 to 3 and 4 to 6 jumped on the park/neutral safety switch. Idles/shifts fine but I have a terrible vibration problem now. We checked the entire car, upon acceleration or when the car starts very bad vibration you can feel throughout the interior. We did put an engine mount onto my car from the donor because mine was bad. Could that be it? What's going on here? We also removed the "brick"/weight attached to the sub frame which IIRC is supposed to prevent vibration but the 'tex says its useless.


----------



## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: (MRosier)*


_Quote, originally posted by *moder13* »_ the only thing i cant figure out is the metal piece going through the clutch cable hole. 

Which end of the cable are you talking about? There is a plastic piece that inserts, twists, and locks into place on the firewall. The hole is pre-cut. Just punch it out. 








Other end normally has the rectangle shaped stamped steel with a large hole in the middle. Then the rubber absorber. Then a smaller stamp steel plate with a hole and slot. Cable goes through the hole and locks on the slot.

_Quote, originally posted by *MRosier* »_I have a terrible vibration problem now. We also removed the "brick"/weight attached to the sub frame which IIRC is supposed to prevent vibration but the 'tex says its useless.

Weight is olny 2 bolts. Throw it on and see if the vibration disappears. If not, shock the wheels, pull the e-brake, and attempt to drive and reverse while someone watches the engine for excessive movement. Normally OEM motor mounts are pretty much shot after 50,000 miles.


----------



## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: (MRosier)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MRosier* »_just finished the swap on my car today. started right up with pins 1 to 3 and 4 to 6 jumped on the park/neutral safety switch. Idles/shifts fine but I have a terrible vibration problem now. We checked the entire car, upon acceleration or when the car starts very bad vibration you can feel throughout the interior. We did put an engine mount onto my car from the donor because mine was bad. Could that be it? What's going on here? We also removed the "brick"/weight attached to the sub frame which IIRC is supposed to prevent vibration but the 'tex says its useless.
if the vibration is very evident that could be the problem. was it a stock mount? make sure the down pipe and exhaust are properly hung and aligned thats probably it.


----------



## SimonH (May 28, 2000)

*Re: (MRosier)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MRosier* »_just finished the swap on my car today. started right up with pins 1 to 3 and 4 to 6 jumped on the park/neutral safety switch. Idles/shifts fine but I have a terrible vibration problem now. We checked the entire car, upon acceleration or when the car starts very bad vibration you can feel throughout the interior. We did put an engine mount onto my car from the donor because mine was bad. Could that be it? What's going on here? We also removed the "brick"/weight attached to the sub frame which IIRC is supposed to prevent vibration but the 'tex says its useless.

Which mount was it you replaced, front or rear? I did use the front mount bracket from the manual car, which requires a different mount as far as I know. Could be wrong, but did not want to take the chance. If VW engineers put a brick weight on the subframe - be assured, it is there for a purpose.


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## MRosier (Sep 17, 2006)

I replaced the front engine mount. I left the weight at my buddys garage I'll have to go back tomorrow and grab it.


----------



## moder13 (Jan 17, 2005)

*Re: (Cyclopath)*

well this is the piece. its a metal plate.
in the engine bay.








in the interior.








here is the plate (the piece that sticks through the hole is on top)








here is all the parts from the shift linkage to the pedal and cable. 








and here is the engine and tranny assembly.








i just dont know if i have to remove the plate because i have to take off all the pedals. which is why you guys told me to just take off the shaft and clutch pedal.


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## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

can you take a more expanded shot from the engine bay side? its hard to tell by the pics what I'm looking at.
and yes definitely just swap the shaft and pedal. By far the easiest thing to do.


----------



## moder13 (Jan 17, 2005)

*Re: (ayton)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ayton* »_can you take a more expanded shot from the engine bay side? its hard to tell by the pics what I'm looking at.

























i have the shaft and pedal already out. but the hole that the clutch cable goes through needs this piece for the rubber piece shown on cyclopath's picture posted on the previous page to go onto. did you guys have this piece to worry about?


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## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

my car didnt have that piece but see what is on your car first. as long as you have the gromet and rubber isolator you should be fine. details of what my car looked like are on or around page 4. It was a blank hole and I added the necessary bits to make it work.


----------



## moder13 (Jan 17, 2005)

*Re: (ayton)*

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3163680


----------



## moder13 (Jan 17, 2005)

*Re: (moder13)*

so that piece that came through the hole isnt needed. the rubber piece fits right on.


----------



## Gti--Nofx (Jul 24, 2006)

can any of you help me? Im in the middle of swapping the 02a in my 96 2.0. cant find the proper starter have tried four differnt ones. what makes, models, years should i be using?


----------



## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: (Gti--Nofx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Gti--Nofx* »_can any of you help me? Im in the middle of swapping the 02a in my 96 2.0. cant find the proper starter have tried four differnt ones. what makes, models, years should i be using?

what problem are you having?


----------



## Gti--Nofx (Jul 24, 2006)

*Re: (ayton)*

bolt holes dont line up. like mounting bracket is different.


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## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: (Gti--Nofx)*

When the bolts are removed, the engine sags. One of the bolts actually runs through the motor mount. Have you tried lifting the engine? Block of wood under the oil pan and then slowly lift while checking the alignment of the holes. Only other solution I can think of is use the motor mount from the vehicle the starter came from.


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## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: (Cyclopath)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cyclopath* »_When the bolts are removed, the engine sags. One of the bolts actually runs through the motor mount. Have you tried lifting the engine? Block of wood under the oil pan and then slowly lift while checking the alignment of the holes. Only other solution I can think of is use the motor mount from the vehicle the starter came from. 

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## moder13 (Jan 17, 2005)

*Re: (ayton)*

ok what kind of tool do we use to remove the bolts holding the driveaxle together?


----------



## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: (moder13)*

its called a 12 point triple square (8mm) your local autozone should sell a pack of 3 for like $8 bucks (3 different sizes in the pack) 8mm being the one you need http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
stick it in a socket 13mm or a 1/2 socket on a ratchet and crank away


----------



## moder13 (Jan 17, 2005)

*Re: (ayton)*

thanks so much\ ayton


----------



## f.n.low (Jun 19, 2006)

*Re: (moder13)*

is it required to replace the front motor mount??


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## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: (f.n.low)*


_Quote, originally posted by *f.n.low* »_is it required to replace the front motor mount?? 
 
only if its bad


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## f.n.low (Jun 19, 2006)

*Re: (ayton)*

sorry another question. Can I use the shifter box assembly and the rod that goes from shifter to linkage from a mk2 to fit my mk3 and mk3 manual transmission and linkage? or will that need to be mk3 specific


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## vwnut18t (Jun 5, 2004)

*Re: (f.n.low)*

shifter linkage I believe has to be mkIII. Thats what I used anyway.....


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## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: (f.n.low)*

having had both boxes "next" to each other...the MK3 box mounts differently and I believe the relay haft has a slightly different bend to it. BUT everything else is interchangeable, the rods, bushings etc. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## f.n.low (Jun 19, 2006)

*Re: (ayton)*

so here's a question... On my 2.0 on the head there's the coolant flange... it's got a sensor in it.. how do i go around that??


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## f.n.low (Jun 19, 2006)

*Re: (f.n.low)*

should i just try and plug the outlet on the back and keep using this coolant flange??


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## SimonH (May 28, 2000)

*Re: (f.n.low)*

You can plug the outlet with the relevant stopper and o-ring (cheap dealer item). The correct outlet flange is pretty cheap - maybe $12.


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## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: (f.n.low)*

buy a manual specific coolant flange...it's like $10-12 as stated above http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## f.n.low (Jun 19, 2006)

*Re: (ayton)*

Does anyone know if you have to disconnect the tranny computer in an obd 1 car??


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## f.n.low (Jun 19, 2006)

*Re: (f.n.low)*

Also does anyone know how to take the shaft for the brake pedal out??? I undid the clip and took off the plastic near the fuse pannel... am i missing something???


_Modified by f.n.low at 2:33 PM 4-25-2007_


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## moder13 (Jan 17, 2005)

*Re: (f.n.low)*

take clip out on right and slide left.


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## moder13 (Jan 17, 2005)

*Re: (vwman099)*

yeah i looked and saw that diagram in my bentley but i dont have that tab apparently on my donor. weird.


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## vwman099 (Sep 27, 2002)

*Re: (moder13)*


_Quote, originally posted by *moder13* »_yeah i looked and saw that diagram in my bentley but i dont have that tab apparently on my donor. weird.

Sorry, I should correct myself.... The tab (triangular piece) isn't fastened to the firewall. It literally just sits in there and stays fastened from the pressure of the spring.
I used a piece of gum to hold it in place while I put the spring in. 
Your donor should definitely have it, the tab might have just fallen off when you took the spring assembly out.


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## Jg022 (Sep 11, 2006)

*Re: (vwman099)*








this piece.


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## vwman099 (Sep 27, 2002)

*Re: (Jg022)*

beat me to it.
Here's the P/N and diagram if you need to go buy it.


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## vwman099 (Sep 27, 2002)

*Re: (Jg022)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jg022* »_i never had #15?

15 looks like the clip for the pedal shaft. I think my auto only had 1 and I had to get another clip because I forgot to get it with the swap.
I'll confess that I never put the second clip on, but it is on my list of things to do.

_Quote, originally posted by *Jg022* »_vwman - what program is that that shows you everything - i've always wondered. And also where could you get all those parts apart from the vw dealer in person?
(Back to swap topic)

Program is ETKA, it's what the dealer uses for VW/Audi. There are various file-sharing methods for where you can get it. But the Tex doesn't allow this to be discussed.
Aside from the dealership, you can order directly from
http://www.worldimpex.com (input the P/N in the search box)
http://www.1stvwparts.com (go to the part lookup)
Only problem is that your going to get raped for shipping. This is probably a 1 or 2 dollar piece.


_Modified by vwman099 at 10:07 PM 5-3-2007_


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## moder13 (Jan 17, 2005)

*Re: (moder13)*


_Quote, originally posted by *moder13* »_ and second is how the heck do i wire this thing?! hha.


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## vwman099 (Sep 27, 2002)

*Re: (Fuzzlet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Fuzzlet* »_Where is a place to order the stamped metal plate? I bent mine a bit so I want to get a new one.


I don't have the P/N for it handy, but you can order it from http://www.worldimpex.com
as well as http://www.1stvwparts.com
You might want to check the price from the dealer as well. I think I priced them out to be around 35 dollars?


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## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: (moder13)*

did you check to make sure the ECU is working properly?


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## stevegotanewone (Sep 19, 2006)

Trans swap is DONE! Today i wired up the reverse lights. I had a little bit of trouble finding the yellow/white pair, so i just spliced in at the TCM connector. I ran two wires up to the 150 relay for the switch, and tied them into the two yellow backup light wires- works perfectly! ...now for some driving...


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## moder13 (Jan 17, 2005)

*Re: (ayton)*

did your inner tails work after the swap? i havent wired the reverse lights yet. butttt ive been driving my car around for a week now and i love it!


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## midwestjetta (Apr 23, 2005)

*Re: (ayton)*

so the trans is an 020, will everything from an 85 golf transfer over?


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## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: (midwestjetta)*

you have to get a3 manual axles and mk3 clutch pedal and mk3 shifter box


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## JDM Hatch (Jul 24, 2007)

*Re: (ayton)*

MK2 axles are 1/2" shorter than MK3 axles so they wont work, and the MK2 shift box is slightly different than the MK3 shift box. You cannot use your auto axles either they have a different flange on the ends.


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## Roosky (Aug 5, 2006)

*Re: (Yo_Delprad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Yo_Delprad* »_im about to pick up my donor car and was wondering about the vss i know there is one on the auto tranny but waht about the manual? how can you tell how fast you are going without it?and the auto cluster will work with the manual tranny like the tachometer and speedo?

Idk about about 2.0l engines and their trannys, but when i did my swap (vr6), i kept my auto cluster and everything works just fine, and both vr auto and manual trannys share the same VSS, not sure about 2.0 though


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## TampaLinc (Oct 11, 2006)

*Re: (hotrados)*

I wish I could say the swap in my 96 Cabrio was going easy.
I can't get the clutch cable hooked up and when I try to start it I am only getting a "click".


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## Skot53 (May 15, 2005)

*Re: (TampaLinc)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TampaLinc* »_I am at a loss with the starting problem.

Double check all of the fuse box wires... when I was in there messing with all of the clutch things, I accidentally loosened one of the thick red ignition wires, and that caused it to not turn over... Could be the source of your problem...

_Quote, originally posted by *CanadianCabby* »_just wondering if there was an easier way to line them up...

Another idea...








...Use a widowmaker to shift the engine into the proper position... just not too far, though or you'll crack a motor mount


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## TampaLinc (Oct 11, 2006)

*Re: (Skot53)*

I checked all the connections at the fuse box and they look fine. I had a mechanic take a look at it and he said the engine and flywheel turn fine by hand, and the starter is contacting the flywheel. 
Am I missing something simple?


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## Cyclopath (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: (ayton)*

Set the emergency brake. Put the vehicle in neutral. Turn the ignition to the ON position. Then short the large and small post on the starter. Make sure to keep your hair and clothing away from moving parts. If the starter is good, the engine will turn and hopefully start. Then you can work backwards from there.


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## TampaLinc (Oct 11, 2006)

*Re: (mikebsxe)*

I checked for codes and I am only getting a couple of Airbag Codes.
00588 - Airbag Igniter; Driver Side (N95) 
32-10 - Resistance too High - Intermittent
00532 - Supply Voltage B+ 
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
By connect the two terminals of the starter, do you mean run a wire from the power plug to the ground?
I did find one big red wire under the dash that is not plugged in. It says AMP 1-929603 -1 on one side and has a 1 in a box and 191972751 on the other side. It this suppose to be plugged in someplace?


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## mikebsxe (Sep 12, 2005)

im still having issues with my speedo and reverse lights. ive read this thread and search multiple threads for this answer and everyone says it just plugs right in...i do not have a three prong connector to connect to the mk3 speed sensor that i put in this trans. the sensor is a three prong, but the connector that i have is a two prong? can anyone please go into detail on this subject? i feel it was never really covered to well. 
thank you for any input/advice in advance!!


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## vwbmx (Jan 25, 2002)

*Re: Backuplights 02A transmission (Roosky)*

mk3 cables are shorter then passat ones I found that out first hand


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