# DIY e-brake parking brake replacement - Golf (Jetta?) MKIV - Repair time - about 2hrs



## Gu VW (Dec 4, 2006)

I was looking in vwvortex for a DIY for e-brake/parking brake replacement and couldn't find one. The following is taken from TDIclub.com forums: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=280354 - credit there to dqa and MOGolf. If people send edits and confirm it's correct then I'll clean it up and when I do mine in the next two weeks (will include pics). This is slightly edited for clarity and flow from the original page btw. There needs to be better safety info for jacking the car I'd guess (how do people recommend keeping a car from moving without the e-brake - i.e. "Be sure to put car be in gear before removing the e-brake cable etc."
A.T.
(again below is not me talking but the above persons from TDIclub.com)
REPLACE E-BRAKE CABLES
I myself recently completed exactly this task. Let me paraphrase and clarify the Bentley manual here.
Before replacing the cables, check to see what cables you have on your car. Don't even let them be ordered according to the VIN of your car. I had a car here a few weeks ago for e-brake cable replacement and it came with the 'E' cables though it should have had 1J0 609 721 K cables.
Other cable numbers are the 1J0 609 721 K, and 1J0 609 721 AC. These latter two are interchangeable with 'AC' superceding 'K'. They are slightly different length than the 'E' cable and have a different "ball" end at the caliper end. 
The clip mentioned above is 1H0 609 734 F on newer editions. These are interchangeable with the 'C' part number mentioned above.
Items needed: [see note about part numbers above]
•	Brake cable 1J0 609 721 E
•	Retaining clip for rear axle 1H0 609 734 C
•	Torx 15 screwdriver
•	10mm wrench, preferably ratcheting (socket won't work, except hollow center)
•	Flat head screwdriver
•	Diagonal shears
•	Pliers
•	Long-nose Vise Grips or similar
•	Jack, stands, chocks
1. Center console extension - the plastic part between the two seats. There are four Torx 15 screws, one each under covers on both driver and passenger side front bottom corners, and two which can be seen through holes in the rear ashtray, after the ashtray itself is removed. The rear drink holders, if present, also need to be opened out of the way. Upon removal of the four screws, the plastic console extension can be pivoted forward and wrestled free of the plastic lip where it meets the gear shift lever housing, thus exposing the adjustment nut and the ends of the parking brake cables.
I found a helpful post from MOGolf answering a question about the front portion:
a) remove the caps over the screws attaching the center console (the part nearest the dash) to the center console extension.
b) remove the screws
c) unclip shifter boot and pull up
d) pull out ashtray insert and remove screw
e) slide ashtray forward (toward dash - away from shifter), close lid and pull out (up) until it is possible to disconnect cigarette lighter connector
f) remove screws (at forward sides of console) and pull center console upward over shift lever to remove
2. Release parking brake, and loosen the adjustment nut as shown in Bentley figure N46-0179. This is best done with a 9x10mm offset ratcheting wrench, only $6.99 at Sears (or a whole set for ~$10 at Harbor Freight). Unfortunately, Sears was closed today, so using an adjustable wrench and fingers had to do.
3. Raise rear wheel, remove parking brake retaining clip, and free caliper end of brake cable.
4. Remove parking brake from retainer hooks, and note where these are for rehanging the new cable later. With luck and a screwdriver, you may be able to pry off the rear axle retaining clip, arrow A in Bentley figure N46-0180. This part is also known as Clip 15 in ETKA figure 615-60. Otherwise, Dremel or bad-ass diagonal shears may be needed to remove (destroy) it.
5. Compare to new brake cable, and determine where the permanent guide tube ends not far from the final curve of the old cable's course. Grab hold of the tube with pliers to stabilize it, and try to pull the entire brake cable free of it. If it doesn't come out, the shears can be used to cut the metal crimp on the cable, making it slightly more flexible.
6. Slide new cable into guide tube, and observe interior to make sure the end has come through. It doesn't seem to firmly seat in the guide tube, but so long as it's lined up, tension during use should do the trick.
7. Hook opposite end of cable onto lever by caliper, using Vise Grips if necessary to compress lever. Reinstall retaining clip.
8. Line up cable crimp ring in center of retainer clip for rear axle, and secure it in place like the previous one, on the two protruding bolt threads. Attach cable to the two other retaining hooks.
9. Hook the end of the brake cable to the compensator, and start to retighten the 10mm nut.
10. Press brake pedal once firmly, and pull lever to fourth notch. At this point it wouldn't hurt to have the other rear wheel off the ground, so the compensator will be evenly adjusted.
11. Tighten the nut until both rear wheels are difficult to turn by hand.
12. Lower vehicle, reinstall plastic console extension, and replace ashtray.
Total repair time was a little over 2 hours, but with the proper tools and preparation this should take less than half that.
I also spent time poring over the Bentley manual inside the car, or running inside for additional tools, but I might not have felt the need had the outside temperature been higher than 40°.



_Modified by jtimleck at 1:40 PM 1-7-2007_


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## GT17V (Aug 7, 2001)

you don't need to touch the console around the shifter. 
Just remove the center console that houses the e-brake, armrest, & rear cup holder (T-20 torx, and I forget the socket size for the armrest)
Since you have the Bentley manual, it is very self explanatory.


_Modified by GT17V at 12:41 PM 1-8-2007_


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