# 1997 Jetta GLS trouble code problems



## The_Pope (Sep 27, 2009)

Ok, So I have 2 trouble codes on my Jetta.
P0341 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
This one is the most troublesome. I've looked up the code for the car and have had so many different answers its so confusing. I have been told that my car doesn't have a camshaft sensor and that I need to replace the hall sensor in the distributor, which I'm pretty sure is the correct thing to do. Only problem is that people are telling me that the car will not run with a bad sensor, but I've unplugged the sensor myself and it ran just fine without it. So I'm at a loss, is the sensor really bad, do I need to replace the distributor, or do I need to adjust the timing?
P0134 - 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank I Sensor 1)
I also get this code, but this one is the easiest to fix I think. I'm just not sure which one is the right one that I should replace. I've looked under the car and there is one directly before the converter and one after it, I think there is another but I'm unsure where it is. My real question is, which one is sensor 1?
Thanks alot.


----------



## JCousteau (Aug 1, 2008)

1. Replace the hall sensor.
2. O2 sensor 1 is the one before the cat.
You've got the 2.0L so there's only one cat. For people with a V6, you can get bank1 sensor1/2 or bank2 sensor1/2. If you imagine standing behind the engine so that the flywheel is next to you and the timing chain is on the opposite end of the motor, bank 1 is your right and bank 2 is your left.


_Modified by JCousteau at 2:51 PM 9-27-2009_


----------



## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

You need to check the timing before replacing the distributor which houses the camshaft position sensor. Has the timing belt been done lately or is it due?
Replace the front O2 sensor.
How is the car running?


----------



## The_Pope (Sep 27, 2009)

*Re: (FL 2.0L)*

It's running just fine. Every maybe 2 or 3 times I drive it there is a little sputter for maybe 2 or 3 seconds but it then goes away. I have the O2 stuff down, I know where it is and looks pretty easy to get to. About the hall sensor though, the trouble code says "range/performance" not "Malfunction". Does that mean that is somehow needs to be calibrated? or do I need to do the timing stuff? Is the timing possible to do myself (I have practically no experience other then oil changes/simple maintenance) or do I have to take it to a dealer? I really don't have the money to throw at some guy to play with a belt.








Thanks again!


----------



## The_Pope (Sep 27, 2009)

Nothing?


----------



## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

Check the timing.


----------



## The_Pope (Sep 27, 2009)

Ok, Is there any way I can do that myself? Or does someone else have to do it?


----------



## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

*Re: (The_Pope)*

Pretty easy on a OBDII ABA engine.
Line up the timing marks on the camshaft pulley, and the flywheel, then check to see if the rotor and the mark on the edge of the distributor housing line up.
Ignition timing is controlled by the ECU, which is dependent on position information from the crankshaft and camshaft (distributor sensors), which is why it's important to have the marks lined up correctly so the sensors will be accurate.


----------



## The_Pope (Sep 27, 2009)

*Re: (germancarnut51)*

So, I went out to look at it with my father and popped the cover off the timing belt. He said that it looks really loose. How do I fix that? Did the belt stretch and I need to purchase another one or is there something that can be adjusted? Sorry for all the stupid questions, I'm no expert I'm just looking to save some (A lot) of money.


----------



## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

*Re: (The_Pope)*

If the timing belt is that loose, there is some danger that it could come off, or skip, that it has already skipped timing.
The ABA is an interference engine, meaning that the valves and the pistons occupy the same space at different times. If the timing belt breaks or skips, the valves will get bent.
Earlier ABA engines have a mechanical belt tensioner, and later ABA engines have a spring loader belt tensioner. I'm not sure which you have. But if your engine had a spring loaded tensioner, either the belt has stretched past it's usable life or the tensioner is not working.
If you have a mechanical belt tensioner, and the belt is that loose, I would replace it. Especially if you don't know how old it is, or how many miles are on it.
Get the Bentley Service Manual for your car before doing any service yourself. The Haynes manual is worthless, and the Chilton is only slightly better.
Do not tear the engine apart without reading ahead, knowing what you are doing, and having the necessary replacement parts and tools onhand.


----------



## The_Pope (Sep 27, 2009)

Ah I see. Well, the weird thing is that it runs perfectly fine, no skipping, no backfiring, no shaking, no nothing. I want to say that its the sensor in the distributor (mostly because it's the easiest to fix







) but people say that if it doesn't work, the car wont run at all. The guy at Advance Auto told me to try replacing the cap and rotor and see if the inner parts are dirty and if so try cleaning them. I have one of those Haynes manuals and your right, they're garbage.


----------



## Michael Cahill (Mar 28, 2008)

*Re: (The_Pope)*

Do this:
1: check timing, if its off even a lil, it can throw that code.
If timing is correct, replace the offending sensor. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
2. Replace first 02 sensor. (easy)
3. How long has that timing belt been on the car?
if its anything over 90K, or if you dont know, replace it!
That belt is what keeps the whole motor in line, if it snaps while its running the valves will get an ass kicking via the pistons, and then you'll need a head rebuild... 
much harder than replacing a belt


----------



## The_Pope (Sep 27, 2009)

*Re: (Michael Cahill)*

Ahh I see, thank you for the straight forward answer







I see you have the same car







How do you like it? I just got this one in April. Have you done the timing on this car? I was wondering how easy it is to do. I went to look at it and took the little plastic cover off of it and noticed that there is a whole lot of stuff in the way. Is it easy for an amateur to do?
Thanks again!


----------



## Michael Cahill (Mar 28, 2008)

*Re: (The_Pope)*

No prob http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I like it








Its not the fastest, but its easy to work on, and it gets great mileage http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Take care of her, and she'll take care of you








as far as replacing the belt goes, as long as you have some basic tools (a socket/wrench set, screw drivers... etc. )
and your willing to get your hands dirty, its pretty easy http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
The hardest part for me was getting the underdrive pully (lower belt pully) off, but once i got it off, it was cake http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Read here: http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty...x.htm
thats a Diy on how to change the timing belt and water pump.
Depending on your mileage, it might be a good idea to do the pump as well, but its not required.
So if you want to do both, follow the whole diy.
but if you just want to do the belt, skip down to step 5 i believe. (theres a note about it there)
(they are included in the same diy because much of the same stuff has to come off for both the belt and pump)
And good luck








write back if you have any problems http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by Michael Cahill at 7:32 PM 9-29-2009_


----------



## The_Pope (Sep 27, 2009)

Ok, So I went ahead with the 02 sensor job before I work on the timing thing. I got the part but it seems impossible to get the old one off. It's crazy, I've tried everything from using pb blaster, wd-40, to trying to get it off while it's hot but it wont seem to budge. Is there some specific way to get it off or maybe some secret to it?


----------



## The_Pope (Sep 27, 2009)

I went and tried it again and it seems like my wrench is just slipping over the O2 sensor. I've tried a 7/8 and its the one slipping, 13/16 wouldn't fit over it. Is it metric and if so what size? Thanks!


----------



## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

*Re: (The_Pope)*

You need to use a socket.
Go to Harbor Freight and get a O2 sensor socket for like $4.99. It's made from a 7/8"/22mm deep socket by machining a slot all the way down the side to give the wires someplace to go.
Same O2 sensor socket doubles as the removal/installation socket for the top nut on front struts. You use the hex on the end of the socket to turn using a boxend wrench, and stick a long hex driver socket down the middle (where the ratchet would normally be connected) attached to a 3/8" flex handle to hold the strut shaft.


----------



## The_Pope (Sep 27, 2009)

*Re: (Michael Cahill)*

I got down to looking at the timing just now and it seems that the rotor is slightly off. Here are some pictures of the markings. 
Crankshaft
http://i36.tinypic.com/2whp10g.jpg
Camshaft
http://i35.tinypic.com/2wcmy47.jpg
Distributor
http://i36.tinypic.com/154ww34.jpg
I was wondering how exactly do you adjust that? My father says that you take the bolt off of that distributor and turn it or something?.


----------



## JCousteau (Aug 1, 2008)

You shouldn't have to touch the distributor. The ECU is responsible for adjusting the timing. If the distributor was so far out of whack that it needed you to turn it, I suspect the engine wouldn't have run (or would have run very very poorly).


----------



## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

*Re: (The_Pope)*

Did you replace the timing belt like you were advised to?
What the point in worrying about the timing, if the belt needs to be replaced? The camshaft timing could just be off because of belt wear and/or tension adjustment.
It appears that you don't have the experience or confidence to tackle this right now. Take the car to a competent VW mechanic and have the timing belt replaced along with the waterpump. You can always take the timing cover back off and check the mechanic's work to see how it's suppose to look down there after the problem has been cured.


----------

