# AEG Crankshaft Trigger Wheel for Impulse/Engine Speed Sensor Question



## atoson (Dec 29, 2002)

I recently purchased an AEG VW US Formula 3 standard race prepared short block. This short block was built by Bertils Racing Engines. BRE was the original spec engine builder for the US F3 series. This is one of the spare leftover short blocks left. The block has been modified from stock. The block used for this engine is a new style Beetle block with an integral water pump. This short block is intended to be used with a 8 valve SOHC VW head. 

Question: 
I've been having a code 16706/P0322/000802 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal. Upon looking inside the sensor hole, I couldn't find the trigger wheel only the counter weigh for the shaft of rod #4. I don't want to tear the engine apart just to place a trigger wheel on the crankshaft. Are there any places selling external trigger wheels? Race prep engines comes with all sort of surprises, the thermostat cavity had a bigger bore and the thermostat would fall in (non thermo application race setup).


----------



## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

What year/model is the car? What is the original configuration? Has anything else been modified, or just the block swapped over? 

Does the engine run?


----------



## atoson (Dec 29, 2002)

It's for a 2000 NB, the engine is a no start condition. Since it doesn't see a sensor wheel, the sensor is basically useless. Are there any applications having a sensor wheel externally located on the front main pulleyor anywhere in that area. I hate to take this appart since I just finished swapping the block with a reman head. I wasn't sure if I mistook the oil pump gear for a sensor wheel while it was still in it's short block stage of the build. The block came assembled from the seller and just added the rest of the engine parts. 

Thanks for the reply!


----------



## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

All of the stand-alone systems can/will use a toothed wheel and most of those companies sell some sort of external wheel, and they all mostly need some sort of fabrication to mount them and the sensor. whether they will work with the stock ECU, maybe. I would think they would, but you never know. And there is the matter of getting it timed correctly. 

Other than possibly a higher CR and being VERY well balanced, What would be the advantage you are looking at for this block? 

Adding a toothed wheel to the crank will require removal of crank, providing the holes for mounting it still exist.


----------



## atoson (Dec 29, 2002)

Looks like I'll end up tearing the bottom end of the block from this lack of foresight. Thanks for the input!:thumbup:


----------



## atoson (Dec 29, 2002)

ps2375 said:


> Other than possibly a higher CR and being VERY well balanced, What would be the advantage you are looking at for this block?


 It was and still is a good deal when I bought it besides being almost bullet proof. 

List of modifications: 
-Brand new VW 2 liter AE series block with piston jets 
-block align honed with ARP main studs 
-ARP main studs 
-block honed with ARP head studs and torque plate 
-brand new Wiseco 82.5mm mm forged pistons with side skirt friction coating, Pistons were milled 0.040 inch in the middle to accommodate valve relief 
-light piston pins 
-pistons weight matched 
-piston rings gaps filed to spec listed below 
-brand new stock VW connecting rods weight matched on the small end, big end, and total weight 
-connecting rods checked for straightness 
-brand new stock VW rods fitted with ARP rod bolts 
-brand new stock VW crankshaft balanced 
-brand new German main and rod bearings 
-brand new stock 2.0 liter oil pump 
-brand new stock VW timing belt 
-all ARP hardware torqued to spec using ARP Ultra Torque Moly Lubricant 

Specifications: 
-82.5mm bore 
-92.8mm stroke 
-1mm steel piston rings(both 1st and 2nd compression rings) 
-piston to bore clearance: 0.004 inch 
-piston ring clearance: top-0.014 inch, second-0.014 inch, oil- 0.008+ inch 
-piston set to zero deck height 
-12.5:1 compression with standard volume combustion chamber and standard thickness headgasket 
-main bearing to crankshaft clearance: 0.002 inch 
-rod bearing to crankshaft clearance: 0.002 inch 
-rod bolts tested using torque and stretch methods to ensure accuracy 
-rod bolt final tightening done using the stretch method to ARP specification 

This is the same type of engine sold on a forum. Only difference is the connecting rods. click the link to view information: 
The complete engine 


Here are some picts of it.


----------



## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

ps2375 said:


> Other than possibly a higher CR and being VERY well balanced, What would be the advantage you are looking at for this block?


 Still want this question answered... 

No pics of the crank? 

And, what are you doing for a thermostat?


----------



## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

atoson said:


> It was and still is a good deal when I bought it besides being almost bullet proof.


 I don't know of any NA 2.0's that aren't "almost bullet proof".


----------



## atoson (Dec 29, 2002)

With the thermostat I cut a sheet of brass into a circle or a ring as wide as the opening and wide enough so the it would act as a shoulder for the thermostat, it's fixed and wasn't hard to fabricate using a metal circle cutter.


----------



## atoson (Dec 29, 2002)

ps2375 said:


> I don't know of any NA 2.0's that aren't "almost bullet proof".


 He he that's why I said almost, ha ha ha:laugh:


----------



## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

:thumbup: That is some good thinking on the thermostat issue.:beer: 

So, is it stock CR? And they didn't have any extra heads, or were the deals not so "good" on those?


----------



## atoson (Dec 29, 2002)

12.5:1 compression with standard volume combustion chamber and standard thickness head gasket.


----------



## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

atoson said:


> 12.5:1 compression with standard volume combustion chamber and standard thickness head gasket.


 So, what are you running it at?


----------



## atoson (Dec 29, 2002)

ps2375 said:


> :thumbup: That is some good thinking on the thermostat issue.:beer:
> 
> So, is it stock CR? And they didn't have any extra heads, or were the deals not so "good" on those?


 $1200 when I paired it up with a reman head. I just done a lot of work to it like belts, h20 pump, coils, plugs, rad, condenser and *all* cooling hoses which I used again considering it only had 80mi before the original AEG blew a head gasket from a faulty radiator fan relay.


----------



## atoson (Dec 29, 2002)

ps2375 said:


> So, what are you running it at?


 It should be as stated since I used a standard head gasket from Techtonics complete AEG gasket set.


----------



## atoson (Dec 29, 2002)

I wonder how much a OEM trigger wheel would cost? Waiting for quote answered by 1stVWparts.com on Monday.


----------



## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Does/will it live on premium, or do you have something else in mind? Is e85 available down there?


----------



## atoson (Dec 29, 2002)

It's actually my sons first car, a hand me down NB so it's going to see everything in stock application. It was an impulse buy, you know how that goes. I really don't know what it's gains are until I solve this trigger wheel problem for a first fire up.


----------



## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

atoson said:


> I wonder how much a OEM trigger wheel would cost? Waiting for quote answered by 1stVWparts.com on Monday.


 http://www.worldimpex.com/parts/genuine-part-carrier_75362.html 

PN is 050105189B. I like 1stvwparts.com, they have a much better price.:thumbup:


----------



## atoson (Dec 29, 2002)

Impex Price: $55.93 

1stVWparts 
ROTOR [Part# 050105189B] 
Quantity: 

Volkswagen 
List Price:$59.50 
Your Price:$36.30 

I forgot I still have the old block, I'm just going to use that.:thumbup: 

Here's what I did with the thermostat. 

New block 









Old block 









New block with spacer ring


----------



## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

It's a shame about how much work it is going to involve to get that wheel on. You better drop the pan to check that the holes are still there. You might end up having to use the old crank if they aren't.


----------



## atoson (Dec 29, 2002)

NOOOOOOOOOO:banghead::thumbup:


----------



## atoson (Dec 29, 2002)

Do you see the trigger wheel in front of the crank sprocket? 









This is the same block as mine, he has a sensor hole block off. 









Notice how the mounting for the sensor?


----------



## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

That is about where the other aftermarket ones are mounted, but, You have he TB cover and the Serpentine Belt pulley to deal with. The stock location will require no fabrication. 

Too bad there is no room under the hood for those ITB's, your son might have to find another car.


----------



## atoson (Dec 29, 2002)

Found my old trigger wheel from the old engine, I'll be using that. Now it's a matter of carefully removing the crank without damaging any of the bearings and journals. SUCKS!:banghead:


----------



## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

That will be the easy part, getting it to where it'll come out will be more work. I would first drop the pan and make sure the holes are there, before you do too much work.


----------



## atoson (Dec 29, 2002)

Yeah I'll do that, there is always something new even though it's my 5th engine build.


----------



## atoson (Dec 29, 2002)

Fired it up today *"SUCESS"*! Was able to remove the crankshaft without removing the head and pulling out the pistons. No parts were replaced since I had the extra main seals on hand. Less than a minute I shut it down and finished the car and getting it ready for it's break in session. No leaks or unmetered air through the intake track, but most important is that it doesn't have any codes showing in my VAG 1552.


----------



## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

:thumbup::beer::beer:


----------

