# Which coil on plug assembly works with a 16v head?



## kalvinlk (Sep 9, 2003)

Search function gave me conflicting results. One post stated the 1.8t coil on plug assemblies are too short, but another topic indicated it can be done. Anyone have any experience, pictures or other information? My Megasquirt 2 install needs some new ignition components!


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## Mortal_Wombat (Jan 29, 2004)

lmao pwnt


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## weeblebiker (Apr 3, 2003)

*Re: Which coil on plug assembly works with a 16v head? (84gti93slc)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I take it the situation is resolved


_Modified by weeblebiker at 3:34 PM 1-2-2006_


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## RickDat (Nov 4, 2003)

*Re: Which coil on plug assembly works with a 16v head? (kalvinlk)*

I see there are a few 'issues' going on here ...... but back to the topic: I also would be interested in what coil-on-plug units are suitable. 
I have borrowed one from a current Ford Falcon (available in Australia) that did fit reasonably well. I have yet to find a price, but expect it would be substantially more than the fairly low prices I have seen on US VW sites (like http://www.ecstuning.com ).
I hope the 'issue' is sorted out promptly - to everyone's benefit.


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## skillton (Sep 26, 2002)

*Re: Which coil on plug assembly works with a 16v head? (84gti93slc)*


_Quote, originally posted by *84gti93slc* »_http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2368131

What a peasant 
There is a certain OEM coil that will fit well on the 16v head


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## 16V-Sauger (Aug 9, 2005)

*Re: Which coil on plug assembly works with a 16v head? (kalvinlk)*

so, you mean something like this? 
http://hometown.aol.de/X75854gx3/Bilder+Links/KM5
http://hometown.aol.de/X75854gx3/Bilder+Links/ZP1


_Modified by 16V-Sauger at 7:25 PM 1-1-2006_


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## kalvinlk (Sep 9, 2003)

*Re: Which coil on plug assembly works with a 16v head? (16V-Sauger)*

Rickdat: That's a good find, though I am sure that the price to ship them over here is going to be expensive. Maybe If I can't find an easy way to get the 1.8t coils, or other domestic coils to fit, We can figure out some way to ship over a few batches? Let me dig a little more.
16V-Sauger: From the looks of it, that valve cover has been machined slightly? What's the info on those plugs?
And as far as the "issues", I hope they get settled as well (without the lousiville slugger people are talking about). Unfortunately, something that is between him and I had to be slammed all over this place. I appreciate the posts regardless.


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## 16V-Sauger (Aug 9, 2005)

*Re: Which coil on plug assembly works with a 16v head? (kalvinlk)*

i`m waiting for that infos, too


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: Which coil on plug assembly works with a 16v head? (16V-Sauger)*

You Need the Valve cover from a 4.2 V8 & the Coil packs from the AEB 1.8 20V Turbo Audi A4.
Really nice set-up but not worth the hassle of COP's.
Personally I would do a 3.6 V8 valve cover and Carbon Fibre Plug wire cover.Much cleaner & sleeker and its never been done on a 4-Cyl VW.


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## skillton (Sep 26, 2002)

*Re: Which coil on plug assembly works with a 16v head? (Wizard-of-OD)*

Apparently the coils from chrysler's 3.5L v6 fit the 16/20v heads fairly well and they are more than powerfull enough.


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## kalvinlk (Sep 9, 2003)

All excellent info, thanks for the replies. 
Wizard-od-OD: The valve cover bolts right up, or does it require a decent amount of machining? And what do you mean by hassle? I think it's definately worth it, considering with the V3 megasquirt board's protype area I can have an ignition driver for each coil, and hopefully for the same cost as a set of new 16v plug wires.
Skillton: have you seen that in action, or do you have any pictures?


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (kalvinlk)*

COP's are garbage.Whether from a Chrysler or from a Bugatti...
Plugs wires + Remote mounted Coils > COP's
I dont know whats the big craze as of late with all this COP must have bs.I have a 034 Stage IIc system with 8 Ignition drivers and the ability to use 8 COP's.What did I do?I ordered a NA 1.8 20V Valve cover Just so I could use 16V Plug wires.
They work and work well.Spend your money on a V8 valve cover before thinking upgrading to Coil Over Plugs. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## kalvinlk (Sep 9, 2003)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*

I don't see where you are coming from with "COP's are garbage". You get two main benefits: a coil for each cylinder, which reduces coil charging time, allowing for stronger spark output especially at high revs when a single coil may not have time to adequately charge. Secondly, it removes spark plug wires from my engine bay. This means less EMI in my engine bay, potentially causing interference with my setup. And yes, I do get measurable interference; MS2 has a very high accuracy in it's sensor inputs and when placing different sensor wires close to my plugwires, I notice an increase in the sensor volatility. Since I am adding a VR sensor/trigger wheel, I can ditch the nasty oil-leaking distributer and clean up my engine bay slightly.
I know I can use a remotely mounted coil for each cylinder, but that means I still have spark plug wires in my engine bay. I also know I can easily use ford's EDIS wasted spark setup, and have two coils which will help with coil charging time, but this still means I have plug wires to deal with.
Also, you never mentioned if either of those valve covers are bolt on affairs, are they?


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (kalvinlk)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kalvinlk* »_I don't see where you are coming from with "COP's are garbage". You get two main benefits

Thanks for lecturing me on the benefits of COP's.Benefits you will never use...








When I say COP's are garbage I mean they are prone to failure.You can show me a 700hp engine on COP's and ill show you a 900hp engine on plug wires...so all that techno babble is just that.Why upgrade to something when what you have will work fine.Your Megasquirt will work with Twin Tower Coils so use those.
However you seem set in your ways with eliminating plug wires so I would say Honda K20A COP's (denso units) will work on the 16V Head.XROMX has those units (or similar denso units) on his betty foo foo MK1 Racer Rabbit.

_Quote, originally posted by *kalvinlk* »_
Also, you never mentioned if either of those valve covers are bolt on affairs, are they?

Yes they will bolt right on since the V8 4V/cyl engines were essentially using 16V Heads.
4.2 V8 with AEB Coils
3.6 V8 with Plug wires & cover
Enjoy


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## 16V-Sauger (Aug 9, 2005)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*

so, the mounting holes of these 2 covers are at the same position as the stock 16v cover?


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## kalvinlk (Sep 9, 2003)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*

Thanks for the links, that's what I was looking for! And yes I do understand that my 16v isn't revving like a sport bike and doesn't NEED individual coils, I am just trying to figure out my options. I know the stock distributer and coil work, but so do the stock cams, pistons, CIS-E etc. Anyway, I am probably going to end up sticking with the EDIS system, because it's proven in the megasquirt community as reliable and better functioning than a single coil and a distributer.
Note: edited to fix my horrible grammar.


_Modified by kalvinlk at 9:51 AM 1-2-2006_


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## Wishy Washy (Feb 14, 2003)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Wizard-of-OD* »_
XROMX has those units (or similar denso units) on his betty foo foo MK1 Racer Rabbit.


Jarod uses hayabusa units.
-Chris


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## stripped_gti (Oct 2, 2005)

*Re: (Captain16vGTI)*

i have some from a 03 ford focus 2.3L duratec. which is also available in the 04 and 05 and 06
i could probably see if they fit .. but not for a few days i head is diassembled i gotta bolt it onto my block and then i can try it


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (Captain16vGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Captain16vGTI* »_
Jarod uses hayabusa units.
-Chris

Hayabusa isnt a bran.Its the model of bike from Suzuki.
Dyna,Denso,MSD,etc are.


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## Wishy Washy (Feb 14, 2003)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Wizard-of-OD* »_Hayabusa isnt a bran.Its the model of bike from Suzuki.
Dyna,Denso,MSD,etc are.

Im very aware of that. I dont recall saying it was a brand though http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
-Chris


_Modified by Captain16vGTI at 1:32 PM 1-3-2006_


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## diddle (Nov 6, 2004)

*Re: (Captain16vGTI)*

Any pictures of the 3.6 v8 valve cover on a 16v?


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## skillton (Sep 26, 2002)

*Re: (diddle)*

also does it need any modifying to fit on the 16v head?


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: (skillton)*

back from the dead....
I tried 1.8T (non-bolt down) coils. Even with modifying the plastic so it will slide into the stock 16v valve cover its too short to fully snap onto the plug. The connector interferes with the valve cover.
*vw collector* suggested trying VR6 24v coils:


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## nick526 (Sep 29, 2006)

*Re: (elRey)*

Issam's right about the poor reliability of COPs. We regularly have vehicles in the shop whose spark plugs outlast the coils that fire them by tens of thousands of miles. One 5.4L ford V8 got six new coils before a single plug failed at 90k.
The waste spark style and single coil systems are far less prone to fail.
I will admit that COP setups do look cleaner though.


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: (nick526)*

Why not start a COP vs single coil/remote coil thread?


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## nick526 (Sep 29, 2006)

*Re: (elRey)*

why not make a do 24v VR COPs fit on a 16v thread?


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: (nick526)*

VR6 24v coils are too short also.
But I did find MKV 2.5L 5cyl coils will work for those that use a SRI. A small amount of trimming is needed of the plastic on the coil for it to sit far enough down.


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## nick526 (Sep 29, 2006)

*Re: (elRey)*

Not sure if you only want VW coils for your project but Nissan Maximas and Kia Sedonas have some pretty long coils on them, I've noticed...


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## VAG_Lowrider (Jun 13, 2005)

*Re: (nick526)*

I made it fit...Needs some machining


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## sp_golf (Nov 28, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *nick526* »_Not sure if you only want VW coils for your project but Nissan Maximas and Kia Sedonas have some pretty long coils on them, I've noticed...


The 2000 Maxima(VQ30DE) coils are about 1/3" too long, but you could make some kind of ring that fits in the VC and around them. The front bank ones also have the 90* connector which would make them look much cleaner. The're not the most reliable coils out there though, and I'm not sure how strong they are.


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## [email protected] (Feb 4, 2009)

More details on the 16v valve cover with 1.8t coils please








I'd like to switch a few 16v's over.
COP is flat-out better for 95+% of the VW builds out there.
The 1.8t coils are better now than in 2006, I don't have any problems with them as far as power or reliability. 
Multiple advantages: cleaner engine bay, less electrical interference in the engine bay (and the ECU in the case of internal ignitor COP's.), no plug wires to deal with, no custom fabrication needed, and much less expensive as well.
I don't care if they are garbage on Fords, etc. I don't drive Fords.


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## VAG_Lowrider (Jun 13, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_More details on the 16v valve cover with 1.8t coils please








I'd like to switch a few 16v's over.
COP is flat-out better for 95+% of the VW builds out there.
The 1.8t coils are better now than in 2006, I don't have any problems with them as far as power or reliability. 
Multiple advantages: cleaner engine bay, less electrical interference in the engine bay (and the ECU in the case of internal ignitor COP's.), no plug wires to deal with, no custom fabrication needed, and much less expensive as well.
I don't care if they are garbage on Fords, etc. I don't drive Fords.



There is not much more to add really.You need to bore up the plug holes to about 45 mm, and some grinding is needed also to remove the lip..
The 1.8T coils are nowaday much more reliable than the colis made from the earlier versions, The part number for these are 06B 905 115R..Also looks like these are identical to the coils on the RS4 V8/A3.S3 quattro engine..I can check up the parts number on that one too..
_Modified by VAG_Lowrider at 1:19 AM 8-5-2009_


_Modified by VAG_Lowrider at 1:44 AM 8-5-2009_


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## VAG_Lowrider (Jun 13, 2005)

*Re: Which coil on plug assembly works with a 16v head? (kalvinlk)*

New update..
Coils from A3 TFSI fits better,and are a bit longer than the 1.8Ts..
Maybe you`ll need some machining like I did..
Part number is *07K 905 715 F*


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## Justin 123 (Apr 11, 2005)

Any chance of a test fit on an unmodified cam cover? They look tall enough.


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## VAG_Lowrider (Jun 13, 2005)

*Re: (Justin 123)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Justin 123* »_Any chance of a test fit on an unmodified cam cover? They look tall enough.

I dont have any extra cam cover at the moments sorry..Fitting it into an unmodified cover wont be a problem..In worst case some minor mods..


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## msrwerks (Apr 21, 2008)

I wanted these COPs in my unmodified valve cover using the stock intake manifold (for my NA 9A build)
Part number is: 07K 905 715 F








Purchased from here: http://www.europaparts.com/ignition-coil-pack-07k905715f.html

Brand new COP out of the box has a rubber sleeve on it that needs to come off. 
This just slides over the COP and is held in place by its own tackiness.

























Use something to cut these tabs either all of the way off or half of the way off. (I used a Dremel)









Then file (or Dremel with a coarse sanding wheel) the lower ridge off AND .5mm (half a mm). 
Unmodified the COP base is 26mm. My stock 9A valve cover plug opening is 25mm









So it will look like this:









And snapped onto the spark plug in the factory valve cover:









As an added bonus if you can use the factory intake manifold you wont have to worry about these 
popping up off the spark plug as the intake sits directly over them (except for #1):









I will have to wait and see if I will have to do anything to the #1 COP to keep it from popping up. 
Maybe a little less off when filing .5mm off the collar will be enough resistance to hold it in. 

Anyway, I hope this helps / saves someone else some time.


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## Human Garbage (Jan 3, 2014)

^ Awesome post right there. Thanks so much for taking the time to share that.


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## 134hpvw (Sep 6, 2013)

great suggestion. :wave:


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## [email protected] (Dec 8, 2007)

msrwerks : thank you for great info.

I bought the same COPs after I saw this step by step guide  honestly, I don't have any clearence issue between COP1 and filler cap or manifold 











some more info : 

pin 1 - 12v power
pin 2 - signal ground (engine block ground works too)
pin3 - signal
pin4 - power ground


connector plug : 1J0 973 724

I use 3,0 ms cranking dwel and 2,0 running dwel.

I'm running MS1 extra, spark output through TC4427AEPA .
one TC4427AEPA provides two spark output channels, each channel drives two COPs (wasted spark)..


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## msrwerks (Apr 21, 2008)

Thanks for the dwell info! I am wiring mine up right now. What did you use to cover the wires so the exhaust manifold heat doesn't effect the wire insulation? I just ordered some of this stuff (which looks like the wrap used on O2 sensors) for the COP wires, TPS wires and the IAT wires.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Fire-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item566798387d&vxp=mtr

What did you secure the COP wires to? Do you have a pic of the back side of the head to post?

Thanks again for the info and pics!

Michael


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## [email protected] (Dec 8, 2007)

I'm using so called "split-loom tubing", I hope it withstands the heat under bonnet.

ATM the COP wire loom is not secured, it just hangs over the valve cover edge, but there is plenty of unused threaded holes on back of the head, so I will fabricate some bracket to support the loom.


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## weeblebiker (Apr 3, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> I'm using so called "split-loom tubing", I hope it withstands the heat under bonnet.
> 
> ATM the COP wire loom is not secured, it just hangs over the valve cover edge, but there is plenty of unused threaded holes on back of the head, so I will fabricate some bracket to support the loom.


my loom melted off when I ran it with the cop plugs facing the exhaust side it . I spun the cops around with the loom on the intake side.


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## gti16v6 (Aug 19, 2003)

I use the 24v vr6 coils.. Fit perfect. And fit between intake manifold runners

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2


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## weeblebiker (Apr 3, 2003)

pics of the 24v vrg coils in a 16v head please

the red top 2.0 tsfi coils are the same as the black ones shown above


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## msrwerks (Apr 21, 2008)

I just ordered one of the 24v VR6 coils. Should be here later this week. I will post a fitment pic with stock 9a valve cover and intake manifold if gti16v6 doesnt see this message.


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## weeblebiker (Apr 3, 2003)

absolutely do the 4427 ignition circuit to control em,or any cop for that matter, that ic is perfect for the task


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## gti16v6 (Aug 19, 2003)

Sorry I don't have better pics. I would take some but car is in storage for winter. The coils arent In quite all the way in second pic. The slide down about another half inch. I did put some dielectric grease around the plug holes to get the to fit all the way down initially.. I drive them directly with ms3. Running waste spark for now.. But I have it wired to run direct ignition 

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2


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## msrwerks (Apr 21, 2008)

Thanks for the pics! It sounds like you have done what I am in the process of doing right now. (MS3 / wasted spark) Did you use the same dwell setting for these coils "[email protected]" posted above?
How did you setup your trigger wheel?

Michael


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## gti16v6 (Aug 19, 2003)

I'd have to check the dwell settings. But I think that's what I run.. As for the wiring it is different than the 1.8t coils.. Same connector.. But pin locations different. I'm running repomans trigger wheel.. With 034 sensor and a fabricated bracket

Found some more better pics



















Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2


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## msrwerks (Apr 21, 2008)

When you get a chance, can you confirm if this is the correct pinout for the 24v VR6 COP coils?
Pin #1 = Ground
Pin #2 = Ground
Pin #3 = 12v supply
Pin #4 = 5v trigger from MS3

Compared to the 1.8T COP pinout:
Pin #1 = 12v supply
Pin #2 = Ground
Pin #3 = 5v trigger from MS3
Pin #4 = Ground


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## gti16v6 (Aug 19, 2003)

If I can spare a few to get to my storage unit I can check it

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2


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## [email protected] (Dec 8, 2007)

how do you gap the plugs with these "hot" COPs ?

I gaped my spark plugs to 1mm (0.04 inch) ,is it enough or should I go further ?



BTW: I've finished my carbon air intake


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## DrivingPassion (May 15, 2009)

Nice job!


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## weeblebiker (Apr 3, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> how do you gap the plugs with these "hot" COPs ?
> 
> I gaped my spark plugs to 1mm (0.04 inch) ,is it enough or should I go further ?
> 
> ...


lets see a top shot of between the plenum and head


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## weeblebiker (Apr 3, 2003)

:thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Dec 8, 2007)

weeblebiker said:


> lets see a top shot of between the plenum and head


 something like this ?

http://golfista76.sweb.cz/vw-club/CAM00104m.jpg
http://golfista76.sweb.cz/vw-club/CAM00105m.jpg



what about the GAP ?


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## weeblebiker (Apr 3, 2003)

left drivers side?
nm see the brake booster in the previous pic

why are you running the itbs upside down?


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## [email protected] (Dec 8, 2007)

left side view
http://golfista76.sweb.cz/vw-club/CAM00106m.jpg

brake booster vacuum is taken from cylinder No.4.

I'm not sure, if it is upside down or not, but the way I mounted them allows me free acces to adjusting screws, and the rubber plugs sealing injector holes are hidden underneath. 


http://golfista76.sweb.cz/12gti017 gsxr záslepky.jpg
this is what I call "bottom side"


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## weeblebiker (Apr 3, 2003)

I'm using the same itbs but they are burried under 8 injectors and 2 fuel rails


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## 20v_boost (Jan 29, 2002)

[email protected] said:


> how do you gap the plugs with these "hot" COPs ?
> 
> I gaped my spark plugs to 1mm (0.04 inch) ,is it enough or should I go further ?
> 
> ...


Sweet airbox! Why not run a MAF sensor to make tuning the ITBs easier?

I have my plugs gap'ed at .035" with 18 psi of boost, so .040" for N/A should be great.

About grounding: I had to ground pin 4 to the head, and pin 2 to the chassis on its own screw. I also added a capacitor to my harness between pin 1 and 4 to get rid of noise and sync loss. This is with the 2.0 FSI coils.

-Alex


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## [email protected] (Dec 8, 2007)

I want to keep things simple, so no MAF, if I needed more precision I'd rather upgrade to MS2.

Tell us more about the capacitor you used. I've seen recently someone used electrolytic cap in his loom.. I have an EDIS capacitor left from my previous settup, I plan to use it if needed.


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## 20v_boost (Jan 29, 2002)

I had first grounded pin 2 and 4 to the head. I had lots of electrical noise and sync loss. Adding a 35v 470mF capacitor (electrolytic) helped, but I would occasionally get sync loss. After a track event the capacitor seemed to stop working. I replaced it with a pair of low ESR 16v 680uF caps and they lasted half a day. I've now moved the pin 2 ground to the chassis while keeping the two 680uF caps in the harness and everything is great.

You can see more details on my COP noise problems here http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=101&t=57615

So I'd make sure pin 2 is grounded to the chassis, pin 4 to the head and if needed, then try capacitors in the harness.

-Alex


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## weeblebiker (Apr 3, 2003)

what gauge ground wires are in your loom?
I can't make the cap do anything beneficial in my head :facepalm:


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## 20v_boost (Jan 29, 2002)

I think it's 16 gauge. I'm not sure exactly why the capacitor would help but I put it on out of desperation. Apparently some Ford edis modules use a 22 mF cap and some guys use them on LS coils.

What do you mean you can't make it work in your head? You don't get how it works or you tried it on your cylinder head and it didn't work?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## [email protected] (Dec 8, 2007)

ford edis caps are 20uF - micro farad (not 20mF milli farad) that is way big difference 

so I grounded pin 2 on chassis, used one edis cap between COP supply and head, it's better than before but still some hiccups.

I have some used 16volt caps 470 and 1000uF, I tried 1000uF one instead fo edis cap, it's better, still some hiccups, but less (cca once per 10 miles)..

the question is : what kills the caps, is it voltage (is 16 or 25 volt high enough) or is it high temperature ?

I found the source of high temp 125°C (257°F) 25 and 35 volt capacitors, I wonder if they last longer ?
http://www.tme.eu/cz/Document/4bbe885c35326128adf3c0aebd83337c/e-bt.pdf


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## weeblebiker (Apr 3, 2003)

mF and uF are the same in capacitors land, m as in "micro" not "milli" although "mF" micro Farad is rarely used "mfd is common, "milliFarad" is never used as a unit.

that said, it is the pulse dicharge and flyback from the coils that is killing your caps. get pulse discharge film capacitors rated for 100v and they should live. no electrolytic caps will survive long in a pulse circuit.


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## weeblebiker (Apr 3, 2003)

20v_boost said:


> I think it's 16 gauge. I'm not sure exactly why the capacitor would help but I put it on out of desperation. Apparently some Ford edis modules use a 22 mF cap and some guys use them on LS coils.
> 
> What do you mean you can't make it work in your head? You don't get how it works or you tried it on your cylinder head and it didn't work?
> 
> ...


what do you have the cap between in the circuit diagram?


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## 20v_boost (Jan 29, 2002)

The caps are across pins 4 and 1 in the harness. One by coil 2 and one by coil 4. I used two to try and make it more redundant. They got 'damaged' (with pins 2 and 4 grounded to the head) in 30 minutes. Grounding pin 2 to the chassis fixed everything. The damaged caps are still in the harness.

Also, when I say the caps are damaged, I mean that at high load I get misfires (sync loss). The car would otherwise run fine. If I were to remove the damaged caps altogether with both grounds at the head, I wouldn't be able to idle without constant sync loss. Haven't tried no caps with pin 2 to the chassis. I'm grounding pin 2 to the left side fender where nothing else is grounded.

I'm using hall sensors on the crank and cam BTW. I wire the sensors to ground the opto-isolator LED in the tach input circuit. I don't use the VR conditioner circuit. I think my way is much less susceptible to interference since I'm using current to trigger the circuit. Sorry if this is sounding too much like a megasquirt forum. I guess the OP was asking which COPs will physically work on an 16V head (not electrically). But there's good info here nonetheless.

-Alex


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## weeblebiker (Apr 3, 2003)

your right.
you do have wiring issues and the cap is the wrong fix
pm'd:wave:

coil grounds or hall grounds or any other pulsed or coil grounds should not be anywhere near the ecu ground. ideally the ecu should be grounded to the engine block and there should be 2 heavy grounds from the chassis to the engine. 

I shad noise in my sensors from my hall distributor when I had it grounded less than 3" away from the ecu ground on the head, the waves in the sensors that were synced to the ditributor went away when I moved the hall ground. 

"ground" is not a constant steady thing, think of the engine block as a tank full of water and the coils squirting into that tank and the alternator is the water pump. now think of the waves caused by the water squirting into the tank, you will get electrical current fluctuations around the "squirters" in the engine block also. there is a very real issue of current paths through the ground plane and avoiding ground loops in electronics design.


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## Bruno_GTi (Sep 23, 2011)

Here i use some JDM solutions , here in brazil is tuff to find some 3.2 / tfsi / vr6 coils ...

The idea works pretty good , with no phisical tune on head cover .

Check These out....

Coil Deck-Cover (carbon fiber)










Ignition Coils and heat shield on cover (Dei Reflect a gold)










Coil Upgrade - OKADA PLASMA DIRECT 










It works pretty fine , on high load / psi situations.


But , its not a cheap solution ... Okada´s are very expensive ...


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## Bruno_GTi (Sep 23, 2011)

These are the layout , when its done.


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## starksan (Mar 30, 2013)

Bruno_GTi said:


> These are the layout , when its done.


Such a clean install. Really like the CF COP plate.


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## Bruno_GTi (Sep 23, 2011)

Yeah , it does realy a good finish .

I have also installed carbon fiber cooling difusers , mirrors and hood.



Enviado de meu XT1021 usando Tapatalk


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## GTIspirit (Dec 13, 2002)

gti16v6 said:


> I'd have to check the dwell settings. But I think that's what I run.. As for the wiring it is different than the 1.8t coils.. Same connector.. But pin locations different. I'm running repomans trigger wheel.. With 034 sensor and a fabricated bracket
> 
> Found some more better pics
> 
> ...


Which year and model 24V VR6 coils are these? Part number?

I've tried 022905715A/B and 022905715C, they don't fit, don't reach down far enough.

022905715B (replaces 022905715B) fits:
CC VR6
2006-2009 Audi A3 8P 3.2L V6
2007-2010 Audi Q7 3.6L V6
2004-2009 Audi TT 3.2L V6
2009-2015 Volkswagen CC 3.6L V6
2007-2009 Volkswagen EOS 3.2L V6
2006-2015 Volkswagen Passat 3.6L V6
2004 Volkswagen R32 Mk4
2008 Volkswagen R32 Mk5
2004-2015 Volkswagen Touareg V6 (Naturally Aspirated)
2004-2018 Porsche Cayenne V6 (Naturally Aspirated)

022905715C fits:
2002-2006 Volkswagen Golf Mk4 VR6 24v (BDF engine code)
2002-2004 Volkswagen Jetta Mk4 VR6 24v (BDF engine code)

Which other VW's had "24V VR6" engines?

Max possible insertion depth on 022905715B is 79.6mm.
Max possible insertion depth on 022905715C is 82.9mm.

Required insertion depth, from valve cover to top of spark plug is 102.6mm.

07K905715 max possible insertion depth is 98.4mm, hence why the slight modifications shown by *msrwerks* are required.

I don't want to have the COP trapped under the upper intake manifold for service reasons. And my oil fill cap seems to be a bigger style and interferes with the 07K905715 COP.

That's why I really want to use the COP style like *gti16v6*, but can't seem to figure out which part number these are.


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## msrwerks (Apr 21, 2008)

I should update this with the setup I have been using since I 1st got the car started and for the last 10k miles...
I bought these COPs...










They were too short and I did not want to modify the valve cover. Lots of measuring later I realized that these COPs actually cover the connector to the porcelain of the plug (just not enough to snap onto the connector in its stock height) so I just bought some screws and cut them to add a connector higher up...










This created its own problem of not being able to use a regular spark plug socket for installation and removal. I solved this by buying a cheap deep socket set from Harbor Freight and some rare earth magnets that stay in the top of the socket and create more than enough pull to hold the modified spark plug in the socket while removing it or inserting it into the head.


















The COPs all snap on securely and I have had no issues from them for more than 10k miles.


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## msrwerks (Apr 21, 2008)

Just an update to what I am currently using to get these COPs to work in the 16v head without machining the valve cover. I was never really happy with the threaded post thing so I had been looking for ideas to replace the threaded posts. I found this kit at Summit Racing and it turned out that the fittings were the perfect height.

















Wrapped the open end around needle nose pliers:









Press it into the COP so it seats in the connector:









When the spark plug snaps into the connector the rubber seals around it so the connection is weather tight:









Press the coil onto the plug. As the coil is about to bottom out on the head you will feel and hear it snap around the spark plug.









Dwell for these coils should not exceed 3.0. Their life span decreases rapidly with dwell over 3.0 - I found this out the hard way


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