# 2010 VW CC engine ISSUES



## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

I went to the shop with my vw cc which had 85k miles on it and now they are saying that cylinder 4 is a misfire and that there is no compression coming out from there. THEY ARE TRYING TO CHARGE ME 5 GRAND to get this resolved saying that they need to basically rebuild the engine.....CAN ANYONE HELP ME WITH this..i just paid the car off and now it's going to be 5 in the hole i am just wondering if it's worth doing this or not. i want to keep the car but damn this is a lot


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## DasAutoCC2.0 (Feb 5, 2015)

Why don't you have another reputable shop take a look?


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

it's there now. the first one told me it was gonnna be 4700 and most is due to labor of taking the engine out. now to get the cylinder block redone is only like 400 but i can't see why it would take 2 WEEKS to get this done. i mean how long does it take to get a engine out and get the cylinder redone


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## CCR.J (Aug 24, 2014)

I thought the powertrain warranty was good for 5/60000?


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

I don't have the warranty due to the fact that i didn't get the tranny flushed at 40k miles (got it done at 41000 because honestly didn't know) but in any regard I can't see how this is a 2 week job. how long does it take to get a engine out and get that cylinder block taken off


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## CCR.J (Aug 24, 2014)

With all of the issues I have had with my '11 purchased a year ago - CPO - with only ~23k.... spending almost as much time in the shop as in my garage since during the last 10K - I have done a lot of reading and research. One thing that I've painfully noticed - go to ebaymotors - search the entire US for 09, 10 CC's - and see what's the highest mileage you can find on one! Very telling / discouraging. 

The V6 FWD or 4mo seems to be much better, with the TDI's doubling those numbers. Really a damn shame that VAG seems to have already tuned the crap out of the VR6 platform - since the tuners offer only minimal gains over stock. TDI gains are much better - astounding gains, but depending upon what model it was to begin with (ie, Jetta TDI v A3 TDI or... (wantz!) A7 3.0TDI. Amazing gains with just a stg 1 tune - zero hardware! Check out APR's site for their TDI stg 1 results - listed according to low, mid, high performance models.

I am used to "Premium Required" cars - but still scratching my head how diesel went from once always cheaper than 87 octane to equal to/more than 93!?!!?


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

it's just working my nerves because i love the car but tired of the bull**** that is coming with this....i bought vw due to quality and such and now this


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## DasCC (Feb 24, 2009)

gunitd50 said:


> I don't have the warranty due to the fact that i didn't get the tranny flushed at 40k miles (got it done at 41000 because honestly didn't know) but in any regard I can't see how this is a 2 week job. how long does it take to get a engine out and get that cylinder block taken off


The dealer voided your warranty due to being 1k late on a tranny flush?? 

File a complaint w VWoA. That's total BS.


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

DasCC said:


> The dealer voided your warranty due to being 1k late on a tranny flush??
> 
> File a complaint w VWoA. That's total BS.




Tried that when it happened they denied me and all that


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

UPDATE he said that he will have to take the head out from doing a compression test. Seems as though its only the top may need to be fixed but I'm not understanding what's exactly going on. He said that there is only 20psi coming from cylinder 4 which means it may be a top issue PLEASE GUYS if you can help me out


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## burnout8488 (Jul 22, 2008)

DasCC said:


> The dealer voided your warranty due to being 1k late on a tranny flush??
> 
> File a complaint w VWoA. That's total BS.





gunitd50 said:


> Tried that when it happened they denied me and all that


Doubt it. VW is smarter than that. You can't void a warranty, they probably just denied a warranty claim on a specific part (transmission) which is well within their rights. The powertrain warranty cannot be voided. (Magnuson-Moss act...etc...)

In any case, the powertrain warranty obviously isn't 100,000 miles. 5yr/60k is the powertrain warranty on these cars, even as CPO unless you bought a special third party warranty that goes to 100k. 

What kind of help are you looking to get from us, OP? If a valve is burned (hence no compression) then you're lucky it's just a head issue. If not, the quotes make sense.


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

Looking for the advice to see if its worth the 5 thousand they are trying to charge me. From what he said it sounds like the valve is burned.


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## echristie (Oct 30, 2013)

If there is no compression in the cylinder it can be a few things:
- hole in the piston
- broken ring
- blown head gasket
- bent valve
- valve not seating due to obstruction (carbon)

I would think it would take a day (max) to get the engine out and day to put it back. 1/2 day for tear down - stretch that to a day. 1.5 days to rebuild. 2-3 days at the machine shop for boring, honing, decking the block (if needed). The same time the head can be reworked - cleaned, valve guides, seals, seat grinding & lapping, assembly. More like a week at the machine shop. They usually are not fast and you don't want them to be. Time sounds about right to me. I'll bet it is longer though, so plan for that.

In many cases, it is better to just buy a used engine and replace the whole thing as a unit. Rebuilding always costs more. To swap the motor out would probably take 2 days, 3 at the most. May need to plan to replace some additional parts - water pump, motor mounts, hoses, belts, maybe seals. Best to replace any seals before the engine goes in to ensure all is not leaking. In most cases, the engine will come with a warranty that you can buy and even get extended. Standard at a lot of shops is 2 years 24k miles. It will cost you $300-$800 more just for the warranty. A shop I use won't even install an engine without a warranty. So, that being said, got to car-part.com and do a search. I searched for 2010, CC, 2.0 CCTA and found probably 100 engines. Grade A are the best. 50k miles were $3k+. Install might be $1.5k. Remember, labor is probably $100 an hour. 2 days would be $1600. You can pay less for the engine if your okay with higher mileage. Talk to the shop to see if they can negotiate the rate down a bit or reduce mark up on parts. Never hurts to ask, worse they can say is no. Talk to the owner or shop foreman. The guys at the desk don't have any power to make adjustments.

I would recommend replacing the engine instead of rebuilding. There are risks associated with rebuilding an engine.


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## burnout8488 (Jul 22, 2008)

All of that is true, but if the mechanic can use a video camera to prove that a valve is burned, an in-car head removal+rebuild is the best bet. No sense replacing the engine if it's just a valve.


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

well they just called me and said that they are certain that its only the top. So they are gonna take the heads and send them off to a shop to get redone he said its best that I re do all 4 of them


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

But how can something with 85k miles be having stuff like that


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## burnout8488 (Jul 22, 2008)

gunitd50 said:


> But how can something with 85k miles be having stuff like that


Freak occurence for sure, but it still is a German car. Weird stuff happens unfortunately. Do you use only 91/93 octane? 

(There is also only one cylinder *head, not heads.) The machine shop will likely hot tank the head, do a valve job, replace the valve, and make sure it's perfect. On the bright side, your car will pull like it is new again. 

Prior to this did your car have a check engine light or did it have any misfires? I'm wondering if neglected excess carbon buildup ruined the valves.


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

Also another question would it be wise to buy a engine similar to mine with plenty of miles and then rebuild it while its out and then when 80k hits just do a swap


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

Yeah freak accident for sure also didn't know there was only one head and only premium gas 93 Octane


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## burnout8488 (Jul 22, 2008)

gunitd50 said:


> Yeah freak accident for sure also didn't know there was only one head and only premium gas 93 Octane


If you can, see if you can call the machine shop to ask about what your valves looked like prior to them being cleaned. I bet they're caked in carbon. If you haven't had a carbon cleaning in 85k miles, that very well might be the reason for this happening. Don't worry, it's a flaw inherent with these engines and if you don't specifically research it then you'd never know. 

Most don't make it past 50-60k without needing a carbon cleaning from what I gather. 

Before:









After:


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## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

The failure most likely occurred because the lower timing chain tensioner failed (a fairly common problem with the 2.0T), causing the timing chain to skip teeth, which causes the camshafts to lose correct timing, causing the valves to collide with the piston tops.

Carbon build-up on the intake valves does not typically cause engine damage.


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

It seems as though this engine needs to be babied as opposed to bring enjoyable to drive


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## burnout8488 (Jul 22, 2008)

CC'ed said:


> The failure most likely occurred because the lower timing chain tensioner failed (a fairly common problem with the 2.0T), causing the timing chain to skip teeth, which causes the camshafts to lose correct timing, causing the valves to collide with the piston tops.
> 
> Carbon build-up on the intake valves does not typically cause engine damage.


I guess there's no way to know without a better description of the issue. My guess is the machine shop recommended "doing" all 4 cylinders' valves because they had carbon buildup, and a valve job of everything would keep compression even across the board. 

Driving with super heavy carbon in a spirited manner could definitely burn a valve, we just don't know how long it was going on. The tensioner could easily cause catastrophic valve damage as well across the board, but since the OP said only one cylinder had the issue I'm inclined to think it's a burned or chipped valve from carbon rather than the worst case tensioner scenario. 

But it's all speculation without seeing a written diagnosis.


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

So it sounds like the valve is burnt and yes I did enjoy driving the car in a fun manner sometimes


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

But I only didn that once a week (self control) but I do plan on keeping the car but I now see that it needs to be tended to very carefully and be babied when it comes to maintenance


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## DasCC (Feb 24, 2009)

gunitd50 said:


> It seems as though this engine needs to be babied as opposed to bring enjoyable to drive


actually quite the opposite. WOT pulls at load will help reduce carbon buildup. 

I'd be interested in seeing the mechanic's explaination for what caused the failure. My money would be on a faulty tensioner which is a known weak point. GL on the repairs.


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

I'll be sure to get that To you guys for sure....also one opinion said that it was the wrong spark plug that detonated and cause cylinder 4 failure


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

But think this will be my last vw because its always something with this car


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## milan187 (Mar 15, 2009)

Man it really sounds to me like the shop is ripping you off, cant say for sure, cod be just caron.


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

What you mean by that from what he is telling me they are taking the top off and and getting it redone


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## drumn_bass (Feb 24, 2014)

Hi @gunitd50 

Have you had a chance to check with another shop or dealership? I'd definitely try that first before I agree to any expensive work. 

d.


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

I've tried two of them the first one said no pressure in cylinder 4 and that it may be just the top that needs work but that he will need to take the engine out before making big decision. Took it to a second one and he said same thing but didn't need to take the entities engine out to repair it


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## burnout8488 (Jul 22, 2008)

I'm excited to hear the exact final diagnosis. And no, there really isn't enough data to be able to say if you are being ripped off or not. Everything sounds about right, so far. 

Again, only cylinder 4 is the one with no compression, reportedly. More than one cylinder would likely be ruined if the tensioner failed. Did this car still run on three cylinders? Or did it completely die?


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

it did ran...it shifted gears and such i only drove it up to 40mph but it ran on 3 cylinders...I am just concerned about how they will or what it is they will repair


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

i just want to know what they are going to do


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## burnout8488 (Jul 22, 2008)

gunitd50 said:


> it did ran...it shifted gears and such i only drove it up to 40mph but it ran on 3 cylinders...I am just concerned about how they will or what it is they will repair


Gotcha. This bodes well for the final diagnosis. (Less $$$)


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

But what exactly does it mean


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## burnout8488 (Jul 22, 2008)

gunitd50 said:


> But what exactly does it mean


The timing chain tensioner likely didn't fail. If it did, all of the cylinders (valves) would be ruined. Since only one is ruined and you were able to drive it on 3 cylinders, it's probably just a cylinder head/valve issue. Way less money, way less labor required.


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

Less money since they don't have to pull the entire engine out


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

Update: they said they still dont know...they are thinking that there may be METAL at the bottom of the engine. I'm starting to feel that they are beginning to give me the run around. And that they are checking prices on replacing the entire engine....I just need some honest help because I know majority of people are just about money and not about service Or honesty


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## RicanCC (Oct 13, 2014)

"they still don't know.....metal at the bottom of the engine" WTF?! I would expect a competent shop to have a clear diagnostic by now. Is this a VW dealer or independent Euro shop? Good luck!


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

Independent shop....they starting to piss me the **** off excuse my language but I'm tired of this. They still don't know but want to charge me 5k to swap the engine when it fact it may be something else


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## jreed1337 (Jun 30, 2009)

man you have to find a new shop or just suck it up and go to a dealer.

there is NO justifiable reason why they should have your car this long and not have it 100% diagnosed with an estimate in hand for you.

gtf out of there and find somebody competent. :beer:


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

Yeah that's what I'm saying the engine isn't out and and they are only saying there is no compression coming from cylinder four. I drove it there to the shop (20 miles from my house going no more than 40 in 3 cylinders) and yet they wanna swap my engine out


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

Its really depressing because I wasn't even dogging the car and I just paid it off and Now they wanna make me pay 5 grand for this job when I really think its easier for them to swap it and make bank on me


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## RicanCC (Oct 13, 2014)

I would either take it to the VW dealer or post a recommendation for a nice euro shop here: http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=26


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

I'm going to go there tomorrow and give a full update so that way I can see what's the deal


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

Update......he claims there is a hole in the piston on cylinder 4....any advice on what I should do


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## RicanCC (Oct 13, 2014)

Again, I would look for a second opinion at a reputable VW/Euro shop. What type of cars do you see at their shop? (domestic, imports, etc)


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## DaBz1981 (Oct 8, 2010)

have them provide a picture of that hole, if possible have them show it to you in person.


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

Yeah I'll go there tomorrow


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## RicanCC (Oct 13, 2014)

Any updates?


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

Not yet will be going there first thing tomorrow morning I'll try to post pics of what they saw and or say


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

Update I'm at the shop now and took a pic of what they took off and assumed that it needs a engine swap










Now how can u tell me that it has a hole in the piston before taking it out


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

Another update this is the official invoice I received


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## RicanCC (Oct 13, 2014)

gunitd50 said:


> Update I'm at the shop now and took a pic of what they took off and assumed that it needs a engine swap
> 
> 
> Now how can u tell me that it has a hole in the piston before taking it out


Maybe they were able to look at the piston through the spark plug hole with a diagnostic camera; I don't know. Where is your car now? What is your plan? Have you researched other mechanics/shops?


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

Update from what he just gave he said he really dont know if there is a hole in there so I told him quit and I'll bring it to another shop to get it rebuild


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## milan187 (Mar 15, 2009)

gunitd50 said:


> Update from what he just gave he said he really dont know if there is a hole in there so I told him quit and I'll bring it to another shop to get it rebuild


For sure, take it somewhere else where you can get a proper diagnosis.


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

I did already and I decided that I'll get it rebuild and keep it for a few more years....its in great shape physically and with this done I can get more out of it


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## CCR.J (Aug 24, 2014)

gunitd50 said:


> I did already and I decided that I'll get it rebuild and keep it for a few more years....its in great shape physically and with this done I can get more out of it


Piston ring related "blow by" a possibility for compression related issues?


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

Im not understanding what it is you just said


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## echristie (Oct 30, 2013)

A shop cannot tell you if there is a hole unless they have a bore scope to put down the spark plug hole or they pull the head.

Holes just don't grow in pistons, they are made. If there is a hole, something made it. Likely cause would be a piece of debris or detonation. If debris, there is likely damage to the head and cylinder walls. Metal stuff bouncing around in the cylinder is bad. I say metal because it was hard enough to put a hole in the piston. 

Questions are: 
- Where did it come from?
- Is there more and where is it?
- What caused it?

Section option is detonation. That should not be happening if your using good gas and your engine is operating normally. If one piston is detonating, then the others might be suspect as well.

In any case, repairs are needed and can't be done or properly diagnosed without removing the head. From that point you can decide to rebuild the engine or purchase a used engine (possibly with lower mileage) and install that with a warranty. I would recommend that route again as the assembly process from the factory is going to be better than the average machine shop. 

If you decide to rebuild, I think it would be prudent to know who is going to be doing the actual assembly work. The shop or a machine shop. I would suggest a machine shop. Ensure the rotating assembly is balanced (and blueprinted). It will cost you a little more to do this, but ensure the engine is smooth when running. Take the time to replace parts that can wear - chains, gears, pumps, etc. Clean the head and your injectors before putting them back in. 

Make darn sure what the warranty is on this major work from the shop. Nothing more aggravating that finding out you have a oil leak or a vibration 8k miles down the line.

Cheers


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## kbad (May 26, 2007)

hey gunit ... looking around on the vortex, someone had similar issue with a cylinder misfire, ended up the oil filler baffle had 'somehow fallen' into the engine! .. is your oil filler baffle intact? 



gunitd50 said:


> I don't have the warranty due to the fact that i didn't get the tranny flushed at 40k miles (got it done at 41000 because honestly didn't know)..


btw, check and see when your dsg/megatronic tsb was done - your mileage for the 'scheduled' dsg fluid change should be 40k from when the tsb was done, if it was done! .. good luck!


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

I have done the interval of it at the 80k mark. Also I didn't check about the filler baffle. Its Getting rebuilt and I'll be going check on it today to see the status and post pics and updates on it


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

Here is the current update on the status of my 2010 Volkswagen CC I went to the shop and only thing they found was that the top needed to be rebuilt there was no vals no holes in the Pistons anything like that so the only thing that be done with the top the block and sent that to the machine shop to get redone and that is it


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## milan187 (Mar 15, 2009)

gunitd50 said:


> Here is the current update on the status of my 2010 Volkswagen CC I went to the shop and only thing they found was that the top needed to be rebuilt there was no vals no holes in the Pistons anything like that so the only thing that be done with the top the block and sent that to the machine shop to get redone and that is it


Thats good. I thought the other shop was full of crap. 
How much will it run you?


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

About 3k for everything including labor I'm still a little upset since the price of this is pretty higher than I wanted to pay but i guess its all good since now I have to keep it a few years to get my money out of it now


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

Which now begs the question should I now get a used Engine and just get that and wait


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## burnout8488 (Jul 22, 2008)

gunitd50 said:


> Here is the current update on the status of my 2010 Volkswagen CC I went to the shop and only thing they found was that the top needed to be rebuilt there was no vals no holes in the Pistons anything like that so the only thing that be done with the top the block and sent that to the machine shop to get redone and that is it


_Why_ does the top end need to be rebuilt? What was damaged? Valves are almost always the cause of a top end needing rebuild from lack of compression.


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

Yeah but from what he said its not putting out any compression in cylinder 4. There was no leaks or metal found in anything either


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## RicanCC (Oct 13, 2014)

Updates? Hoping you got it sorted out.


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

Update: the top is being rebuilt and since the engine is out along with the transmission I'll change the clutch while I'm at it. I should get it back this week


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## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

Replacing or repairing the cylinder head does not require that the engine or trans be removed from the car....what is going on??


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

I can be almost certain that its a way to make money off my ass....I didn't see why he had to take it out for that job


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## kbad (May 26, 2007)

hey man .. while at it (i.e. engine and transmission out) have him check/replace the rms, engine/trans mounts/bushings .. that should make it worthwhile and you'll get more of your money out of it, eh ... good luck!


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

That's what I told him to do...because I don't know why he had to take it out


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