# got boser hood?



## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

looking for info on boser hoods


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## Letter K (Jan 8, 2011)

i wish. the only way to do it is to buy a secondary hood, and cut it up and basically mate it to your existing hood. 

basically you need two hoods,, lots of precise measurements, some damn fine fabrication, a expert welder, and a fantastic bodyman


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

cant it be done without a 2nd hood?


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

and how does it cover the lights/bumper cover are they cut? or does it get put over the lights?


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## SigfridR (May 2, 2012)

*Boser hood*

Might be a thought to get enough people to justify a group buy from a carbon or fiberglass manufacturer. I bet it would be much easier for them to create a mold. Just my thoughts. I think that is the most elegant modification. Good luck trying to replicate and please let the forum know how it goes. 

Sigfrid


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

taverncustoms said:


> cant it be done without a 2nd hood?


 Don't think so. Either second hood, fiber/carbon, magic, or wishful thinking are your only options. 

cheers


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

Yes it can be done without a second hood. If I were to do this, I would make a cut 3-5" back from the front edge of the hood, the entire width of it. You wouldn't want to cut the structure portion, only the to layer(the skin). Remove the front, skinned section of the hood. This will now move forward to give you the extra length to cover the headlights. You may end up needing to section it to give you a better leading hood line, but that would be the easy part. Then find the proper thickness sheet aluminum to fill inn the gap caused by moving the front section forward. To finish you would also want too add a piece of aluminum along the underside of the extended section. This would be to support the new overhang. 

The reason I would skin the hood, is to have a factory clean front edge to three hood. If you were to just add metal, you would have to make the most perfect cut you have ever made in your life, and then it would still be off. Once you think you got it good enough, you would need to somehow come up weigh a clean way to make the edge as thick as the bent factory edge. 

You would need a tig, and be able to make clean tack welds. The actual body work depends on how well you fit the metal, but would be the easiest part of the job. 


Your other option would be to make a fiber glass extension, and hope 3m make a great product to bond it to the aluminum of the hood without ending up cracking. 

All in all, it would be a pain in the as$.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Rivets


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Honestly the easiest way would be using a second hood since its the same type of aluminum and already has the same curves. Then section it like stated above with the custom idea. Unfortunately finding someone skilled enough to weld the aluminum and not warp it would be the biggest issue. Either way your looking at a fairly hefty price tag to have one made. I just dont see it being worth it IMO


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

I would love to get one done at some point. But it's hard to justify the thousands you would need to spend to get it. PAIN (sp?)had one on his TT and posted up some photos of the body work so you may want to search him.


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

A second hood doesn't seem to me to be the answer. You would still need to skin the front portion off to make it work out. Other than using it for it's exact match for aluminum, and being able to avoid a little bit of metal shaping, it would be + $3-500 on the bill. 

I have seen mk3 guys use the fiber glass extensions, that are available to them with great, lasting results. They only difference is the steel vs. aluminum factor. I have talked to a 3m rep a few months ago, and he claims they do have a product for a composite/aluminum bond. The problem would be putting full faith in it. If you are capable of respraying your hood if it cracks, it would be well worth the gamble. I will be spraying my car soon, and will be able to respray parts at anytime, so maybe I will break out the fiber glass sh!t in order to be the guinea pig...


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

I do have to agree the only thing holding us back is the fact that its an aluminum hood. I for one wouldn't have faith with the 3m stuff until I see it in person and know it works


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

There was a guy in the forum that had one...he posted pics of the manufacturing processs and it looked really labor-intensive... 

Edit, link to thread below: 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5582865-My-quot-toy-car-quot-..&highlight=Boser+hood


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

He was mentioned by Ben, P A I N is his name. Personally, I don't care for his fender widening methods, so I can't say I would be willing to follow his lead with the hood either. I'm sure the quality of work on the hood was much better than the work on the fenders, but still. 

I have seen guys use extra sets of fenders and 1/4 panels to widen their cars throughout the years, and still can't believe that its the best method of completing the job. For one, the cost of the extra panel seems ridiculous to pay. When widening a fender or 1/4 panel, you will be extending it a couple inches at most. It doesn't make much sense to source an entire panel, cut the original off, only to weld the same thing back on a few inches further out...:screwy: Sheet metal is cheap. A well planned body mod becomes fairly simple with proper cuts and template cut sheet metal filler pieces. Most people see body work done in build threads on here and are sold on the idea that that is the best way to complete it. 

Sure, there are plenty ways of doing the same job, but a more than half of them are not as efficient as the others. I always spend the most time on planning cuts, and how they will affect the panel going back together, while looking right from all angles. I never once used anything other than simple sheet metal. People boser steel hoods all of the time without having a donor hood. The only difference is the aluminum is more difficult to weld. It's easy to shape once annealed.


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## G'D60 (Mar 11, 2002)

I've got the second hood already and I still can't figure out if and how I would do this. Just for the record I'm willing to donate/chip in on some R&D work. Hell I'd be willing to chop the front of one of my hoods and send it off if it helps create a template or something. I'd love to see something come together.


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

I will start looking at the second hood method a little harder to try to come up with something for you. If I can come up with a plan, I can either send you instructions as a write up, our you can shop it to me to do that portion. I will look at it closer after I get off of work. 


-Matt


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Ill say it again.. RIVETS! Not welding. That way you can use filler to cover your work. You can counter sink the rivets to where they aren't seen. All in all, you can finish this in a weekend at home.


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## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

PLAYED TT said:


> I do have to agree the only thing holding us back is the fact that its an aluminum hood. I for one wouldn't have faith with the 3m stuff until I see it in person and know it works


 Best bet is to find some one that deals with aircraft building or vintage Jaguar XK120's/older aluminum body sports cars. Bonding with adhesive would not be advisable. 

Another issue is going to be the front bumper, it will need to be cut and some how re configured to allow the front mounting edge to remount. Personally I looked at it last night and it would destroy the lines of the car in my opinion. The lip edge will also sit weird over the front head lights :sly: 

Plus, when it goes out of style like so many other things, one would have to buy a hood and a bumper in order to go back to the original lines.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Cutting the bumper isn't necessary


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## G'D60 (Mar 11, 2002)

I kinda figured you would raise the latch point by a couple mm's... 

46&2 
Sounds good. Let me know your thoughts and I'm happy to help out. Haven't cut the hood yet so its completely fresh FYI 

Hope we can work something out


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

Leaving rivets in body work is a no no Eric. You can use them to make an initial hold, for securing a panel while adhesive, resin, and any other bonding material is setting up. They have to be removed, because the different expansion rates of either panel, filler, and rivet itself. All of the reading I have done has said you must remove them before fully finishing the panel. Not vwvortex reading either, actual published material written by various professionals.


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Forty-six and 2 said:


> ...*Not vwvortex reading either, actual published material written by various professionals*.


 LMFAO...nothing truer has ever been written on this forum. ;-) 

cheers


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Forty-six and 2 said:


> Leaving rivets in body work is a no no Eric. You can use them to make an initial hold, for securing a panel while adhesive, resin, and any other bonding material is setting up. They have to be removed, because the different expansion rates of either panel, filler, and rivet itself. All of the reading I have done has said you must remove them before fully finishing the panel. Not vwvortex reading either, actual published material written by various professionals.


 Your probably right. The guy that was explaining it to me speaks very little english, but is a magician when it comes to obscure sh!t. He might have told me that the rivets needed to be removed after, but my spanish isnt as good as it used to be.


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

:laugh:


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## G'D60 (Mar 11, 2002)




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## WhanAB (Jul 29, 2012)

*I want ONE*



taverncustoms said:


> looking for info on boser hoods


 it can be made....... Carbon Fiber as material ......... All I need is 5 commitments 

for it to be custom made to perfection ........ 

Design has been made and has been revised and being looked at again....... 










Hood that I have now....... we are putting working air vents in hood 2 possible 4.. We are looking 

at a lot of possibilities want a very functional air vents..... perfect fit.. purchasing a Hood ... 

Price maybe $2500.00 each plus shipping if at all interested let me know . 
do not want to scare you off but like to be up front...... and I will bring them down to cost 

plus $10.00 and freight need 4 really as I am buying one.. not taking anybodies money to pay for 

mine other then $10 a hood...... 

I want this made.....


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

$2500!!!??? A little steep there.


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

Ya $2.5k will never fly..... I don't care how perfect the hood is. Your talking almost 1/5 the price of these cars now. Sorry as much as I would love a boser I like money more... well kinda, as I own a TT or 2 and their a money pit.. SO I take that back I don't like money


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## WhanAB (Jul 29, 2012)

Audiguy84 said:


> Ya $2.5k will never fly..... I don't care how perfect the hood is. Your talking almost 1/5 the price of these cars now. Sorry as much as I would love a boser I like money more... well kinda, as I own a TT or 2 and their a money pit.. SO I take that back I don't like money


 I knew if I did not put some kind of price that would be the first thing asked .. 

it could be $1700.00 the hood in the picture has a MSRP of $1260.00 and the underside is not carbon fibered 

if everyone does not care if the underside is not carbon fiber it would go for around that $1700.00 that is quick guess.... 

Thanks for the response


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

How much will they weigh tho? They are about the same standard, but I wonder how much they would both weigh with the boxer.....


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Sorry that gets a huge fail stamp. I had that exact hood. It fell apart in less than a month. And I didn't like the corners in the front. Didn't conform to the front of the front bumper at all. One side of the hood scoop was something like 10mm wider than the other side. Mine was made by "VIS racing" what a joke :facepalm:


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## WhanAB (Jul 29, 2012)

This is my current hood 

Not what I want to make whole new design 
From a company that is awesome


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

Thoughts on a vent like this. Would be a carbon "drop in" vent... 



















MkI visual reference.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

I would stick with the oem lines and do no vents


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Forty-six and 2 said:


> Thoughts on a vent like this. Would be a carbon "drop in" vent...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Love that idea


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## WhanAB (Jul 29, 2012)

*hood*

looking at something like front L&R vents and exit vents .. we have looked at this as well in above 

pictures.... too aggressive still want a little aggressive / the lines and smooth/clean with function 

if that makes sense...


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

Well if it ever happens TRUST ME, its better to start making a boser hood when starting with a factory hood. If you start with a aftermarket hood from ANYONE you risk the chance of if not fitting correctly.


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## WhanAB (Jul 29, 2012)

Audiguy84 said:


> Well if it ever happens TRUST ME, its better to start making a boser hood when starting with a factory hood. If you start with a aftermarket hood from ANYONE you risk the chance of if not fitting correctly.


 agree going with factory hood


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

G'D60 said:


> 46&2
> Sounds good. Let me know your thoughts and I'm happy to help out. Haven't cut the hood yet so its completely fresh FYI
> 
> Hope we can work something out



I was looking at the hood a few nights ago and came up with a decent plan. I am not 100% certain that the originally front line of the hood is exactly what you would want for the final shape of the boser. The only way to check without the extra hood, would be to make a template... 

I would be happy to do all the fitting work. I would need you to cut the end of the hood off 12" back from the front edge. That would give me plenty to trim till it fits. The best way to cut it with simple hand tools, would be to use an angle grinder with brand new cutting wheels, or a reciprocating saw. The reason for new wheels or blades, is to not contaminant the aluminum, causing problems during welding. I know I will end up removing more material, but just to be safe.

I would measure back 12" from the front edge in a handful of spots, mark them, then run a piece if tape at the marks, from side to side. That would be to make as close to a straight cut as possible.


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## WhanAB (Jul 29, 2012)

*boser hood*

the price is due to carbon fiber if you want a cheap one then your lucky to get 3 sheets of c/f

just can not do that even talked about completely c/f both sides.........

willing to do underside mostly fiberglass filler .. it really is a decision of whether your keeping the car 

or not and a lot have had their cars 7 plus years... which tends to mean they are keeping it.....

mine is my business right now and my DD with 120K on it but in a few years it will be my second car 

and look pretty dam sharp


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