# Rear seat delete



## vtraudt (Mar 1, 2010)

Any good DIY links for the rear seat delete?


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## B1-16V (Aug 5, 2002)

Been contemplating the same. Was thinking about using the rear seat for a couch in the "man room", lol. 

Certainly useless in the car.

However, if doing a rear seat delete, the road noise/vibration will increase unless putting some sound deadening on the delete sections. 
If you care about that sort of thing.


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## recaro19 (Feb 17, 2016)

There’s a guy from the uk who sells the complete kit. Oem bar with pretty much the exact same set up as the oem kit. I’m planning on picking one up as soon as I can afford it.

He’s on eBay. Can’t remember what he goes by but I can take a look and see if I can find the link.


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## vtraudt (Mar 1, 2010)

recaro19 said:


> There’s a guy from the uk who sells the complete kit. Oem bar with pretty much the exact same set up as the oem kit. I’m planning on picking one up as soon as I can afford it.
> 
> He’s on eBay. Can’t remember what he goes by but I can take a look and see if I can find the link.
> 
> ...


I know him and saw his offering (also on ebay). Roughly $600 shipped. Don't want to spend that kind of money.


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## McPikie (May 14, 2019)

That would be billy at Cloude 9 customs. His kits are a great fit, but expensive.

I made my own, using 50mm steel bar, the audi dimpled rings from the rollover bars on the cabriolets, some drain pipe to cover the front of the base of the seats and a bit of 12mm MDF

I think I cut the bar to 997mm, but made it so it was a force to push it into place. Leave the seat lock tabs in place and cut a slot in one end of the bar to slide it over them. The netting can be made easily from 50mm seatbelt webbing and a bit of stitching. Then it's just a case of measuring the wood.

Just don't use some Home Depot 25mm chrome shower rail, it will look ****.


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## vtraudt (Mar 1, 2010)

Looks good!
But how did you CONNECT (as in LOAD bearing/force) the strut? That mechanism does not appear to be an easy DIY? 
Or did you weld it in place? 

If not connected solid, the strut (crossbar) has no function and would be purely optical. I would then just leave it out and make a simple cover.


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## McPikie (May 14, 2019)

vtraudt said:


> Looks good!
> But how did you CONNECT (as in LOAD bearing/force) the strut? That mechanism does not appear to be an easy DIY?
> Or did you weld it in place?
> 
> If not connected solid, the strut (crossbar) has no function and would be purely optical. I would then just leave it out and make a simple cover.


As said, the bar is interference fit. It is held in place by force. It took a rubber mallet to get it in place and, despite some hard driving, hasn't moved in months.


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## vtraudt (Mar 1, 2010)

McPikie said:


> As said, the bar is interference fit. It is held in place by force. It took a rubber mallet to get it in place and, despite some hard driving, hasn't moved in months.


Interesting. 
Does anyone have details of the OEM design/connection?


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## recaro19 (Feb 17, 2016)

McPikie said:


> That would be billy at Cloude 9 customs. His kits are a great fit, but expensive.
> 
> I made my own, using 50mm steel bar, the audi dimpled rings from the rollover bars on the cabriolets, some drain pipe to cover the front of the base of the seats and a bit of 12mm MDF
> 
> ...


Nice DIY!

Yeah, it’s a bit of money but compared to the OEM price (if you can find on) his kits are a steel.

I personally don’t mind paying someone to provide the service he does and at such a good quality. His kits look exactly like the OEM and I don’t really have the tools/space/time to fabricate my own.

Also, how do you keep you rear storage compartments closed? Mine have been broken and open since the day I bough the car  


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## McPikie (May 14, 2019)

vtraudt said:


> Interesting.
> Does anyone have details of the OEM design/connection?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N5-DkRmPr38

That's how the Cloud 9 kits fit. 



recaro19 said:


> Nice DIY!
> 
> Yeah, it’s a bit of money but compared to the OEM price (if you can find on) his kits are a steel.
> 
> ...


LOL, I think that's going to be a case of a little glue, or new rear quarters once the tab is broken


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## StilettoTT (Apr 22, 2019)

Here's a video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XixRm4W_qDQ


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## StilettoTT (Apr 22, 2019)

McPickie, do you happen to have the part number for the trim rings from the roll bar in the cabriolets, or know where I can get a set? Thanks in advance!


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## McPikie (May 14, 2019)

StilettoTT said:


> McPickie, do you happen to have the part number for the trim rings from the roll bar in the cabriolets, or know where I can get a set? Thanks in advance!


I sourced mine from a breakers local to me. There's usually a fair few that pop up for breaking on facebook/ebay and the like. If you guys struggle in the US, I'd be happy to see what I can get from here and post them over. I did it for a lad in Alabama, think it was £20 for the rings and £7 postage


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

built this almost 19yrs ago and its still going strong........ road noise is equal to having the rear seat. the blue matches much better in person..... someplace on vortex should have my DIY from back in the day.. great amount of easy to use store and all direct bolt in/out


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## vtraudt (Mar 1, 2010)

carsluTT said:


> built this almost 19yrs ago and its still going strong........ road noise is equal to having the rear seat. the blue matches much better in person..... someplace on vortex should have my DIY from back in the day.. great amount of easy to use store and all direct bolt in/out


VERY nice. 
This is what I would like to do. 
What 'doors' did you used? 

If you find the link on vortex, can you link me?


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

vtraudt said:


> VERY nice.
> This is what I would like to do.
> What 'doors' did you used?
> 
> If you find the link on vortex, can you link me?


the doors are spring loaded/injection molded and from a 90's Chevy S-10 blazer. these are the doors that bridge the gap between the rear cargo area and back seat when the seats are laid flat. I routered the mdf so the doors sit flush then recovered them. I just happened to be parting out the blazer at the time so it was a lucky find.


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## B1-16V (Aug 5, 2002)

carsluTT said:


> the doors are spring loaded/injection molded and from a 90's Chevy S-10 blazer. these are the doors that bridge the gap between the rear cargo area and back seat when the seats are laid flat. I routered the mdf so the doors sit flush then recovered them. I just happened to be parting out the blazer at the time so it was a lucky find.


That is really crafty. Anytime you can get a ready made part like that, that takes hours and hours out of a project. I've been considering just taking out the seat bottom, and putting some doors like this. Thanks for sharing.


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