# 42DD downpipe INSTALLED.... little DIY inside!



## VWdriver03 (Jul 26, 2005)

Let me first start off by saying thanks to cincy and the others who helped me with advice and tips on this project... I would have probably never attempted this on my own without your help.








As far as my opinion on this piece... Its a beautiful made part, the performance and fitment are excellent! well worth the money http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
This is the first time I have attempted any kind of DIY write up so bear with me. I know for a fact that I have left out a few things in the pics and description, so you will have to figure them out as you work, but the main things will be covered.
I would rate this project as a medium level job, I did 99% of the work on my own and I am not by any means a mechanic. As far as tools go, you will need:
-ratchet with extension
-various assortment of sockets, both regular and deep
-7/8 wrench for the o2 sensors
-2 jack stands
-13mm and 17mm wrenches
-a good jack or 2
-various screwdrivers
-a hammer(for persuasion purposes







)
-sawzall with a long blade or 2, the regular sized blades wont do
-PB blaster or similar 
-a helper if you can find one, I couldn't find any








-various random things like flashlight, anti-seize, and a pair of pliars perhaps.
*1.First start off by opening the hood and removing all parts in your way, such ar strut tower bar and one of its mounting points(circled in red), upper IC pipe and its mounting point. you can also unplug the o2 sensor at this time. Next using your ratchet and 17mm deep socket you can remove 2 of the 3 nuts that hold the DP on the turbo(they should require PB blaster to come loose)*








*2.Next you will have to jack up the car as high as you safely can, support it with the stands and remove the pass. side wheel. Next remove the acessory drive belt cover(mine was already removed in the pic but it will be located in the area shaded in yellow)*








*3.From here you can get to the 3rd nut holding on the DP. manuver your ratchet w/extension and 17mm deep socket into the area and get it sitiuated on the nut. move your ratchet all the way up to the left and let it lock, gently let it rest there on the nut. then go to the top of the engine bay, you should be able to push down on your ratchet from here and break the nut loose.*
















*4.Next I undo the catback section and 2nd o2 sensor*








*5.Then I remove the 6 nuts(shown as red dots) holding the cat on.*








*6.I can now take the cat off and remove it from under the car*








*7.Here you can see the inside of the stock cat... restrictive is the best word I can find to describe it*








*8.Next pull the DP off the studs that hold it to the turbo and let it rest in the engine bay. Now we get to the cutting part, this was the best and really only place I saw to cut the DP from*








*9.Cut all the way through it, the 2 pipes will come out the bottom and the top piece can be pulled out from the top of the engine bay*
















*10.Now you are ready to install your 42DD piece. Slide the first section(curved piece) in through the top and bolt it to the turbo, go ahead and tighten it all the way down.*
*11.Next slide the next section(one with the flex pipe) through the bottom, it will take a little work to get it through but it will fit. Go ahead and get it sitiuated then bolt it up.*
























*12.For the last 2 sections which were the long pipe(or section with cat if you have the street series) and the reducer piece, I went ahead and bolted those 2 up before I took them under the car. I then crawled back under and bolted those up, which completed the downpipe.*








*13.At this point go ahead and tighten up any loose bolts on the DP*
*14.I then installed my 2nd o2 sensor along with my spacing device(if you have a street series you would just screw the sensor into the threaded hole in the DP)*








*15.Your now done with the bottom half, put the wheel back on. go back up top and install the 1st o2 sensor and all the other parts you took out from that area. once that is done your ready to crank the beast up!!







but before you do so run everything back through your head and make sure its hooked or bolted up. when you start the car you will probably get some smoke from all that PB blaster you sprayed on the turbo, this is normal.* *note* I did not reinstall everything in the engine bay because I plan to get a new o2 sensor from the store tomorrow.








You're done... lower the car and take it for a test drive!! enjoy, I know I did!








Update- sound clip of the new DP paired with my EuroSport catback http://s13.photobucket.com/alb...2.flv


_Modified by VWdriver03 at 2:15 PM 6-22-2007_


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## liquidicenf (Mar 15, 2007)

nice little write up there. I cant wait to order mine.. Only thing i dont like if how ya gotta cut the exhaust b/c i'd like to return the car to stock when i sell it.. eventually.. down the road... years from now... hah


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## cseaman (Jul 8, 2003)

*Re: (liquidicenf)*

Great DIY!
Did you get a CEL with the o2 spacer?


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## VWdriver03 (Jul 26, 2005)

*Re: (KC Jazz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KC Jazz* »_Great DIY!
Did you get a CEL with the o2 spacer?

None for now... a friend of mine said it could take a couple days before the 02 started to notice a change, but I'll report back if I get one.


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## RonN (Feb 15, 2001)

*Re: (VWdriver03)*

Awesome write-up. I believe the only way to get the stock DP out without cutting it would be to lower the sub frame. Otherwise it wouldn't really be a DYI job unless you're already due for alignment.


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## VWdriver03 (Jul 26, 2005)

*Re: (RonN)*

Well, after driving this afternoon, I got a CEL... pretty sure its for the 2 o2 sensor, I'll have to scan it to confirm.


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## PDX 337 (Apr 14, 2004)

*Re: (VWdriver03)*

so, how does it feel? Def on the list for me, when funds arrive...


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## VWdriver03 (Jul 26, 2005)

*Re: (PDX 337)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PDX 337* »_so, how does it feel? Def on the list for me, when funds arrive...

it feels great! almost like there's a extra cylinder that kicks in at 4K rpm.


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## mysteryman048 (Aug 9, 2006)

I run the same dp with the same spacer... no CEL here


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## VWdriver03 (Jul 26, 2005)

*Re: (mysteryman048)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mysteryman048* »_I run the same dp with the same spacer... no CEL here

really? I mush just have bad luck


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## VWdriver03 (Jul 26, 2005)

*Re: (VWdriver03)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWdriver03* »_Well, after driving this afternoon, I got a CEL... pretty sure its for the 2 o2 sensor, I'll have to scan it to confirm.









update... the cel was for my front o2 senser, there must be something wrong with the one I got at the store.


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## 2kjettaguy (Dec 24, 2000)

*Re: 42DD downpipe INSTALLED.... little DIY inside! (VWdriver03)*

*VWdriver03* - Nice write-up. Glad you like the DP! 
*liquidicenf* - if you unbolt and lower the subframe you can remove the stock downpipe in 1 piece. This may require an alignment later, but lets you keep your stock DP in one piece. 
Evan


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

*Re: 42DD downpipe INSTALLED.... little DIY inside! (2kjettaguy)*

wonder if the cost of the alignment is really worth a stock dp and cats.


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## sims159915 (Jan 24, 2005)

i dropped the subframe and no need for an alignment... Im just that damn good... (sarcasm)


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## VWdriver03 (Jul 26, 2005)

*Re: (sims159915)*

took 2 little vids tonight, I'll try to get them up tomorrow http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VWdriver03 (Jul 26, 2005)

*Re: (VWdriver03)*

Well I couldn't get the driving vid to upload, but here is the one... http://s13.photobucket.com/alb...2.flv


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## liquidicenf (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (VWdriver03)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWdriver03* »_Well I couldn't get the driving vid to upload, but here is the one... http://s13.photobucket.com/alb...2.flv

That sounds amazingly nice! It has a nice "purrrr" to it. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## fijitt (Mar 1, 2007)

so how easy is it to get the cat section off of the stock exhaust. if its not to hard i might just just rip it off and gut the thing! would i just need a spacer/adaptor like used above so the o2 senor wont go off?


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## VWdriver03 (Jul 26, 2005)

*Re: (fijitt)*

Its not hard to take off at all, just those 6 nuts which should require some PB blaster because there a little rusty... then undo the sleeve clamp and off she comes. And yes you would need a o2 spacer if you were going to destroy the cat.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (VWdriver03)*

Heya, I saw the stock cat; do you have pics of the inside of the 42DD cat? Just curious to see the difference


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## VWdriver03 (Jul 26, 2005)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*

No sorry, I got the race series... no cat for me at all


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## fijitt (Mar 1, 2007)

where did you get your o2 spacer?


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## VWdriver03 (Jul 26, 2005)

*Re: (fijitt)*

[email protected]
email him... works great http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## midnight08 (Jan 10, 2010)

*Re: 42DD downpipe INSTALLED.... little DIY inside! (VWdriver03)*

Thanks this will do it ...


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## XXX 1.8T (Aug 10, 2002)

*Re: 42DD downpipe INSTALLED.... little DIY inside! (midnight08)*

so if i take it to a shop to cut the oem dp out how many hours should they charge me for labour?
Im thinking about this mod but have been scared as i heard it can take up to 8 hours labour.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: 42DD downpipe INSTALLED.... little DIY inside! ( XXX 1.8T)*

DIY, its as simple as jackstands, a sawzall, some wrenchs and a ratchet set http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Its easily done on a nice weekend afternoon and Lucas' DIY is golden


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## 8valvesofFURY (Dec 31, 2006)

Im going to buy a sawzall now!


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## DJmart (May 8, 2009)

Do you need to cut the DP for the 180Q model too?

Just wondering because this guide is very good, but it is for the 225 which I don't have.

Looking to buy a 42dd DP and hi-flow cats, very soon.

Thanks,
-DJmart


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## jetta2.8 (May 18, 2009)

Wow nice write up. I can't wait to order mine!! Oh and the 180 has a different dp and should be simpler. Also 42dd sells an O2 spacer as well.


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## DJmart (May 8, 2009)

jetta2.8 said:


> Wow nice write up. I can't wait to order mine!! Oh and the 180 has a different dp and should be simpler. Also 42dd sells an O2 spacer as well.


Simpler but is it necessary to cut or drop/lower the subframe?


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## surfinsk8r (Feb 8, 2010)

l88m22vette said:


> Heya, I saw the stock cat; do you have pics of the inside of the 42DD cat? Just curious to see the difference




















From their site.


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## Jonde (Jan 4, 2009)

That cat is really big pain in the ass. I got 24/7 CEL on from that, and no lambda spacer can't fix that or new sensor.


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## [email protected] (Oct 16, 2006)

Jonde said:


> That cat is really big pain in the ass. I got 24/7 CEL on from that, and no lambda spacer can't fix that or new sensor.


 In every case I have seen our spacers have fixed the P0420 code that is thrown when you put our high flow cat on...

http://store.42draftdesigns.com/O2-Sensor-Spacer_p_306.html

-John


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## Jonde (Jan 4, 2009)

First 5 months i did not got cel at all. Now in summer time it started to come on. first it take 1week on/off periods, now it's 100km and cel on. 
I tried first 1", 2" spacers and 90 degree spacer without help.


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## [email protected] (Oct 16, 2006)

Jonde said:


> First 5 months i did not got cel at all. Now in summer time it started to come on. first it take 1week on/off periods, now it's 100km and cel on.
> I tried first 1", 2" spacers and 90 degree spacer without help.


 I can't speak for other spacers besides our own but when ours is installed it should eliminate that CEL, I have not had any cases of people coming back to me with issues. 

Do you know what code you are throwing? 

-John


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## Jonde (Jan 4, 2009)

Saturday,24,July,2010,16:39:49:02696 
VCDS Version: Beta 912.0 

Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AJQ.lbl 
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 032 MJ 
Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0003 
 Software Coding: 10710 
Work Shop Code: WSC 00148 
Additional Info: VSSZZZ1MZ4R117635 SEZ7Z0D2533946 
1 Faults Found: 

16804 - Catalyst System; Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold 
P0420 - 35-00 - -


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

same one/thing I'm getting with my 42DD pipe/cat combo. Didn't have anything for the first 3-4 months or so...then when the warmer weather hit, I've got the cat efficiency. 

I have a 42DD 02 sensor spacer to install...just haven't gotten there yet. No big deal.  Great product. 

Joe


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## Malant (Aug 30, 2004)

Jonde said:


> Saturday,24,July,2010,16:39:49:02696
> VCDS Version: Beta 912.0
> 
> Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AJQ.lbl
> ...


 Thats exactly the code our spacer was designed for, give ours a try?


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## Jonde (Jan 4, 2009)

I could try that. 
But that street series cat should work without any spacer. Or that spacer should be free with that dp.


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## Jonde (Jan 4, 2009)

I change my old stock dp and cat back and no more cel. Next step is to change new better cat on the 42dd pipe.


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## DJmart (May 8, 2009)

Jonde said:


> I change my old stock dp and cat back and no more cel. Next step is to change new better cat on the 42dd pipe.


I still think buying the fancy spacer from 42dd was a better idea... imo.


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## rodhotter (Dec 24, 2003)

*cel with cat*

many street high-flo cats will throw check lights, thats a nice setup but in pennsylvania with salty winter roads i need 304 stainless to last, i had coated pipes before they peeled and rusted, i would buy a street downpipe if it were 304 stainless, i realize it will cost more but its once and done for the life of the car, are you listening 42DD


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## 20psi now (Feb 26, 2009)

rodhotter said:


> many street high-flo cats will throw check lights, thats a nice setup but in pennsylvania with salty winter roads i need 304 stainless to last, i had coated pipes before they peeled and rusted, i would buy a street downpipe if it were 304 stainless, i realize it will cost more but its once and done for the life of the car, are you listening 42DD


This therad is 2 1/2 years old..... 42dd is not going to make a SS down pipe due to cost! For them to make it and sell it and still make there money, they would have to price it with ARP stuff and that is a big no no for me! I would be more willing to take on "making my own downpipe" before I pay out the ass for a pipe that is SS... And just to let you know 42dd downpipes will last a long ass time! Even if you get 5-6 years out of it most people change the setup of there car by then, and if not WHAT is another 400-500 bills for another downpipe?? :screwy: You got your money's worth out of it by then!


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## Arnolds64 (Nov 13, 2009)

*Price is stupid.*



20psi now said:


> This therad is 2 1/2 years old..... 42dd is not going to make a SS down pipe due to cost! For them to make it and sell it and still make there money, they would have to price it with ARP stuff and that is a big no no for me! I would be more willing to take on "making my own downpipe" before I pay out the ass for a pipe that is SS... And just to let you know 42dd downpipes will last a long ass time! Even if you get 5-6 years out of it most people change the setup of there car by then, and if not WHAT is another 400-500 bills for another downpipe?? :screwy: You got your money's worth out of it by then!


42DD is way over priced. I know Audi's are less than mainstream but C'Mon. This is the only thing I hate about these cars is the fact these guys that make HP products are way to high. Hell I could buy an Off Road H or X pipe for my Mustang GT for like 200.00 and a lot more pipe materials involved. Intakes are too high as well. I understand the demand thing too but on this site the TT people far out number all the other Audi threads and this goes on on all the other Audi sites. So when a guy like Max sells LCA's at about half the price and is happy to this should tell you something. When you price items like this it really pushes people away from even buying a TT and hinders all the product suppliers for them as well. Get the prices down and you will see. As I always say 0% of business still makes you 0%.


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## 20psi now (Feb 26, 2009)

Arnolds64 said:


> 42DD is way over priced. I know Audi's are less than mainstream but C'Mon. This is the only thing I hate about these cars is the fact these guys that make HP products are way to high. Hell I could buy an Off Road H or X pipe for my Mustang GT for like 200.00 and a lot more pipe materials involved. Intakes are too high as well. I understand the demand thing too but on this site the TT people far out number all the other Audi threads and this goes on on all the other Audi sites. So when a guy like Max sells LCA's at about half the price and is happy to this should tell you something. When you price items like this it really pushes people away from even buying a TT and hinders all the product suppliers for them as well. Get the prices down and you will see. As I always say 0% of business still makes you 0%.


I understand where you are coming from don't get me rong its all over piced if you ask me! putting money in to a car is just dumd anyhow but on a side note I got my 42dd down pipe for my 225 for 370 so im not b!tching too much.. As for anyone else just take a look around, APR :what: 1k+ just for a downpipe and 2k+ for a full turbo back! I don't know why anyone in there right mind would wast the money on there stuff. 42dd is not that bad on price but if you compare to other CO's there much cheaper for the normal guy.. :beer: And Max is not really out to take your money so he can sell them cheaper then anyone out there, Max just want's to make the TT world a much better place!


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## Darkside GTi (Mar 13, 2011)

it looks like the 42 pipe hangs down low, does anybody ever hit theirs?


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## 20psi now (Feb 26, 2009)

Darkside GTi said:


> it looks like the 42 pipe hangs down low, does anybody ever hit theirs?


I do all the time, over speed bumps oldy but I'm only 1.5" lover then stock and I still can drag the downpipe.


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## Darkside GTi (Mar 13, 2011)

you would think for the money, it wouldn't hit


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## 20psi now (Feb 26, 2009)

Darkside GTi said:


> you would think for the money, it wouldn't hit


What do you really want from a 3" pipe.... Its a big pipe it's gonna hang a tuch low. There is not much room as is under the TT as is and you lower it on top of that, it's gonna drag some times.. The only time it drags on me is on 3 speed bumps and I try to saty away from them because there the size of texas..


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## rodhotter (Dec 24, 2003)

*stainless downpipe*

i would give the $$$ for a stainless downpipe for my 01 TT 225 hp+ APR only lists the full 3" system, i already have the borla cat-back 2.5" and want to connect to it, i doubt if you get 5 yrs from a coated pipe in pa winters, also usually only coated outside so it rots inside out, so seeing my 01 vw 304 stainless system still fine after 10 yrs its do it once do it right, i do not intend to sell my TT ever!!


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## night_OWL (Nov 15, 2011)

42DD also offers to coat the pipes if you order it directly from them... this could go a long way in removing the worry that you may have about the pipe corroding... 

Another thing to add: Mustangs outnumber any single Audi model sold, so just keep that in mind when comparing prices. 42DD charges a very fair price for their DP in comparison to the rest of the market place, and has far better customer service too! 

As far as the scraping issues goes, would a DieselGeek Panzer Plate protect the DP? Have heard and seen great things about the plate, just dont know if it reaches that far back...


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

How much was the downpipe? How much power did it give you? I'm curious about cost:horsepower ratio


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## night_OWL (Nov 15, 2011)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> How much was the downpipe? How much power did it give you? I'm curious about cost:horsepower ratio


From the 42DD website: http://www.42draftdesigns.com/categories/products/tt225dp.html

"In April of 2007 Joe Lucchio of Fourtitude/VWVortex put our downpipe to the test. With his existing modifications the dyno showed 9.3 hp and 19.3 ft/ lbs peak gains at the wheels. Gains were proven throughout the RPM range and drivability was greatly improved. To read Joe's complete review check out fourtitude's full feature."


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## Checkers10160 (Jun 4, 2013)

I'm a little confused by the write-up. Does the 42DD piece come in multiple pieces or something? Because OP said to slide the curved piece in, THEN the piece with the flex pipe. I have a Relentless DP, which is one piece. Would I have to drop the subframe, because it's 1 big piece?


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

Checkers10160 said:


> I'm a little confused by the write-up. Does the 42DD piece come in multiple pieces or something? Because OP said to slide the curved piece in, THEN the piece with the flex pipe. I have a Relentless DP, which is one piece. Would I have to drop the subframe, because it's 1 big piece?


I dropped the subframe to make it easier but others have said it isn't necessary.


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## Checkers10160 (Jun 4, 2013)

steve-o 16v GLI said:


> I dropped the subframe to make it easier but others have said it isn't necessary.


Even though it's 1 piece, rather than like 3? Also, how hard is it to drop the subframe? I'm not mechanic by any means, but I'd like to become one, and I'm worried I'm getting in over my head here


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

Checkers10160 said:


> Even though it's 1 piece, rather than like 3? Also, how hard is it to drop the subframe? I'm not mechanic by any means, but I'd like to become one, and I'm worried I'm getting in over my head here


I've been told its possible without dropping it. I tried and gave up and unbolted it. It's like 6 bolts i think. And you will want a jack to support the weight of it. I don't think I even removed all six. I think I left two in a bit to help keep it all lined up decent. I still had a hell of a time getting it lined back up cuz I had a ghetto jack situation holding it up. It's not fun but I think if you could get the car up higher than I could get mine on ramps you should be able to do it without dropping the subframe as others have. I think I had ground clearance issues when I did mine so I couldn't move it around like I needed.


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## Checkers10160 (Jun 4, 2013)

steve-o 16v GLI said:


> I've been told its possible without dropping it. I tried and gave up and unbolted it. It's like 6 bolts i think. And you will want a jack to support the weight of it. I don't think I even removed all six. I think I left two in a bit to help keep it all lined up decent. I still had a hell of a time getting it lined back up cuz I had a ghetto jack situation holding it up. It's not fun but I think if you could get the car up higher than I could get mine on ramps you should be able to do it without dropping the subframe as others have. I think I had ground clearance issues when I did mine so I couldn't move it around like I needed.


Hmm, alright thanks. I'm still a little confused though because the DIY here says I need to take a wheel off, but maybe that's only if I don't drop the subframe. I just wish someone did a DIY of dropping the frame too


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

No wheel removal for me but I had no shield on the belt side of the motor to remove. Maybe that's why.


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## Checkers10160 (Jun 4, 2013)

steve-o 16v GLI said:


> No wheel removal for me but I had no shield on the belt side of the motor to remove. Maybe that's why.


Alright, thanks. Is unbolting the subframe literally as easy as just unbolting it, or is it more involved than that?


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

Just put a jack under it to hold it in place. Unbolt it and then lower the jack slowly until you have enough room to wiggle it in place. Then jack it back up and line up the bolt holes. It's not too bad.


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## Checkers10160 (Jun 4, 2013)

steve-o 16v GLI said:


> Just put a jack under it to hold it in place. Unbolt it and then lower the jack slowly until you have enough room to wiggle it in place. Then jack it back up and line up the bolt holes. It's not too bad.


So no steering stuff, spindles, etc? just unbolt and lower? That doesn't sound so bad, especially because i want to keep the stock one in case the Relentless doesn't fit.


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