# Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (I need it!!)



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Pictures Galore of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - Input welcome!!*

I could not find any pictures of a teardown of a 02A and it is somewhat different than for a 020, so I have decided to post what I am doing so those who follow can see how to do it. However, I am flying by the seat of my pants as my Bentley manual does not cover this. I am hoping that all of you who do know something can watch over my shoulder and pipe up with advice or direction when needed. Tell me what needs to be done and where I need to pay particular attention to something. I will post pictures that will be labelled by number so that people can comment on things. I will post more pictures as I go.
The pictures to disassemble the transmission can be found
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=767717
I am doing a bearing replacement due to the fact that I ran my tranny low on oil and cooked the input shaft bearing. Since I did not know how much damage I did to the other bearings, I felt it best to replace them all. The bearings were not particularly expensive and the total cost I had to do this was about $300.00
I found that one of the gears in my 1st gear syncro hub had a half a tooth broken off. I was going to replace that too as VW told me that the cost of the gear was about 55.00. However, when it arrived I found that it was the wrong part. They had sent the lower synchro ring and I needed the syncro hub. The cost of that was about 450.00 and since it was only one small part of a tooth, I decided not to replace it. 
The bearing numbers and the picture of the broken tooth are found in a different thread that I created on this forum.
The text appears below the picture and refers to the picture above. If there is a part within another part, I worked from the outside in, top to bottom. The picture of it in my hand should show it as it appears when removed directly from the shaft.








Picture 1 - Here are the bearings that I did not have to buy from VW. These include the differential bearings (bearing and race set), and the bearings and races for bottoms of the input shaft and the output shaft.
EDIT - That bearing race on the far left, LM12710 is NOT a bearing race used in this transmission. LM12749 IS the right number for the bearing, but you need both parts as it appears that the set is only available from VW. These are the bearings for the bottom of the input shaft. The right bearing race appears to be JLM12712B









Picture 2 - Here is the output shaft set up to pull. Note that the puller is below second gear. (Thanks to HGB for the assistance in telling me where the puller goes.)









Picture 3 - I heated the top sleeve, but it is important to note that this is not the only sleeve holding this together. There are sleeves behind the transmission gears too. Heat in a circular pattern, without overheating the sleeve and taking the temper out of it.









Picture 4 – I found that the puller required a lot of force to move all of these gears and the sleeves behind, even with the heat to the top sleeve. I turned the assemble on the side to get more leverage. What you are seeing in the picture is the part that came off first. There is still some pulling to do to get the rest of the gears off.









Picture 5 – Here is the stack, hopefully in the same order and orientation that they were in originally. If there is anything I should note about any component, or the direction it goes in, please feel free to post comments!









Picture 6 - The sleeve at the end of the shaft. Has this sleeve and bearing been replaced by a new sleeve bearing combination? The replace part I got to replace the bearing around this shaft appear different. I believe that the original was the FA G bearing that was a roller bearing. The new one appears to be a ball bearing. Anyone know anything about this?









Picture 7 – The thrust washer. On Broke’s excellent site http://www.BrokeVW.com he makes mention of the fact that some washers have an up and a down side. I am not sure if this is true of this washer or not. I guess I’ll get to that on reassembly. This is still disassembly!









Picture 8 – This should be 4th gear.









Picture 9 - The needle bearing behind 4th gear. I have it noted as a 29 x 40 x 24, if that helps anyone. Also, all my bearing cages seem to be broken. Is this normal?










Picture 10 – The sleeve between the 4th gear needle bearing and the shaft.










Picture 11 – The third to fourth synchro hub. Take particular note of the three locking pieces around the edge. If you don’t know to look for them, you will likely lose them.










Picture 12 – Third gear sync ring…I think.










Picture 13 – Third to fourth shifter thingy. (Probably has a more technical name than that…)









Picture 14 - Third gear sync ring. Is Picture 12 of the outer and this one the inner?










Picture 15. - This would be third gear.










Picture 16 - The bearing behind third gear. I have this noted asa 30.6 x 40 x 26









Picture 17 – The sleeve for third gear….(I am starting to see a pattern!)









Picture 18 – Another thrust washer. Again, these might have a top and a bottom.









Picture 19 - Second gear 










Picture 20 – The bearing behind second gear. ( Hey, what happened to the pattern! Where is the sleeve between this bearing and the shaft? There is no sleeve...just the shaft. See pic 24…it contacts just above the retaining ring.) I have this bearing noted as 35 x 40 x 23.8










Picture 21 – This is labelled in ETKA as the “Inner sync ring” for first and second gears









Picture 22 – This is labelled as the “outer sync ring”










Picture 23 – This is labelled as the sync ring









Picture 24 – This is the shaft that remains. Note the retaining ring that would have to be removed to get at the first to second gear synchro hub. It is that top gear that is broken on mine, right next to one of those locking pieces. The part that is broken off is completely covered by the shift ring when the shift ring is in the position that you see it here.
I will post more as I make further progress. Please feel free to comment on any of the above and make any corrections, observations or add any detail that you feel is important. Any advice is welcome.

_Modified by PASHAT at 8:41 AM 11-13-2006_


_Modified by PASHAT at 8:58 AM 11-14-2006_


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

Pics are dead.


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (djsheijkdfj)*

Darn. I forgot about the bandwith restrictions of the geocities site. The pics are there, but once they get loaded off the site a few times, the site shuts down for an hour or so. Any other place I can post them that people recommend and that will last? Once I know I will upload them and edit my original post.


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

http://www.photobucket.com


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (djsheijkdfj)*

Done. Thanks. 
I welcome any comments on anything that I have done so far. I should have more pictures soon.


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## stoned_elvis (Feb 15, 2003)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

did you get your bearings from impex?


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (stoned_elvis)*

No I didn't use impex. The ones pictured are from a local bearing supplier. They cost about 80.00. Getting things shipped from the US can be quite slow.


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## stoned_elvis (Feb 15, 2003)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

oh thought they came out to be $300. 80 bucks is good. what are you going to do about the needle bearings. any prices on them? or are they dealer only's? 
what was the name of the company you orderd those bearings from? address? info?

thanks
try this link if you are looking for that broken item. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2879631 

[


_Modified by stoned_elvis at 6:13 AM 11-2-2006_


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

I have a question about installing the needle bearing cages. What should I do to prepare them. Oil them well? I am thinking that starting bearings while they are dry is probably not a good idea.


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (stoned_elvis)*

I should make it clear that the bearings that you see in picture one cost about 80.00, but there were a lot of other bearings that I had to get from the dealer. The cost of ALL of the bearings was about 325.00. I missed one in my original order so I am awaiting it before moving on.


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## Broke (Aug 13, 2001)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_I have a question about installing the needle bearing cages. What should I do to prepare them. Oil them well? I am thinking that starting bearings while they are dry is probably not a good idea.

Everything should be super clean before install. I clean the parts in a parts washer full of kerosene with a brush, then they are rinsed in 2 seperate clean kerosene baths.
Everything gets a coating of oil on install, just have some oil on hand to get the parts good and wet with when installing them.
The gear needle bearings are split on the 020 to allow them to open and expand to get over splines and steps and so forth on the shaft as they are slid down....I would assume the 02A is very much the same.
As for not knowing how the things like thrust washers go back on.....didn't you take any pics or make any notes while tearing it down? Pull it off piece by piece and examine it closely while cleaning it looking for damage or wear or indications it has one side facing a particular way?






















I'll have a look over the 02A papers and see if they make any notes on thrust washers being one way or the other and so on http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Broke


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (Broke)*

Okay. I have made some progress in getting the output shaft back together. You can look over my shoulder and make whatever comments you wish. I am open to criticism. 
Text is BELOW the pictures.









Picture 25 Although you can clearly see the broken tooth in this picture, right next to the hole for one of the three locking pieces, it is actually a picture of how to get the synchronizing hub back together. Those three little locking pieces fell out and do you think I could get them to fit back in. I finally realized that the piece BEHIND the gear with the broken tooth has three deep grooves in that only line up if you turn the gear to get them aligned. I also took off the spring at the top to make putting it back together easier. You line up the slots as shown in the picture, note the location of the bottom spring by looking for the little end that stick out of one of the three slots, then you put the pieces in place, then slide the hub down over everything. You have to find the three recessed gears in the hub and put those ones over the locking pieces. When inserting the top spring make sure that you rotate it 120 degrees from the one on the bottom.










Picture 26. Sorry about the bad quality of this picture. Note the recessed gear.









Picture 27 – Back together with the locking pieces in place









Picture 28 – Next put on the lock ring. Slide it from the top. Use a new one!








Picture 29 – Put the sync ring back in, aligning it with the locking pieces









Picture 30 – Put the outer sync ring back into place









Picture 30a – Put the inner sync ring back in place. I found that this did not fit particularly tightly. Hopefully I am not missing something. Note that this fits over the outer sync ring and meshes with the sync ring shown in picture 29. 









Picture 31 – Notice how second gear has openings on the bottom to line up with the sync rings. I have mistakenly noted that it lines up with the inner sync ring. These actually mesh with the OUTER sync ring.









Picture 32 – This should be the new bearing. However, I am actually holding up the wrong bag. Part number for the proper bearing for here is actually 02A 311 213 C. These do not come with an inner race as the bearings ride right on the shaft.
Edit - On rechecking, this IS the right part that I am showing. 02A 311 265 D is for the bearing behind 2nd gear. 02A 311 213 C is for behind first gear, which is a bearing that I did not replace and probably should. I would have to pull that broken sychro hub to get at the first gear bearing.










Picture 33 – The bearing in place








Picture 34 – I have oiled the bearing fairly thoroughly. However, I think I will likely be taking this off and dipping it in oil rather than pouring it on after the fact. With the gear covering this, oil might be slow to get in if you have not pre-lubed it.








Picture 35 – Second gear is replaced








Picture 36 – The thrust washer is replaced. I could not see that one side was up or down. It definitely had no bevel on it like in a 020. 
Now, it was at this point that I found that I had not ordered the next bearing and am awaiting its arrival. I will likely start putting the differential back together and take picture of that, including setting the preloads if I am able to do so. Hope to be posting more soon. Once again….comment on anything you see.


_Modified by PASHAT at 10:20 AM 11-4-2006_


_Modified by PASHAT at 8:54 PM 11-5-2006_


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## Broke (Aug 13, 2001)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_Once again….comment on anything you see.

That trans is *FILTHY*!!!









That poor German made needle bearing made the trip all the way here and was slid down onto grime








Also, my monitor isn't showing it very well, other than on the bearing race that was heated, but it was mentioned to me that the splines look blue as well for 4th gear. I could sort of see the blue on the 4th splines when comparing them to the splines for 5th in the last pic (and the 5th splines look damaged to me, like chevrons), but I couldn't see any blue on the other parts that were pointed out to me....at least not on my monitor.
It was also mentioned that all the running surfaces could use a sanding with 1500 to remove the burned on crap to give the bearings a surface to roll on instead of skidding over a bad surface.
The only thrust washer on the output shaft that I noticed was one side facing one way was the 1st one under 1st gear, but if you didn't strip it that far, it wouldn't be an issue.
The parts really need cleaned though, to be able to see any other damage or problems, plus dirt will kill a freshly rebuilt box.
Broke


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (Broke)*

Hi Broke:
I promise to clean things better. Although my work area is stained, I am trying to keep the tranny clean. Look! I washed the shells! I haven't gone so far that I cannot take things apart and clean them better. I appreciate your input. Thanks.
In the meantime, here is how I spent my day today:
Doin’ the Differential:










Picture 37 Okay, first thing to do is finish pulling off the diff bearings. Here is the puller I used. It worked and came off pretty easily.









Picture 38 – Put the shim back. I took this picture to show you which side the shim goes in. It goes in this side. (I hope no one tells me I am wrong about this. I did check carefully!)









Picture 39 – I like to measure things when I can. This shim measured.93mm in most places. In some places it measured .92 and in others .94. I checked and rechecked and re zeroed about 10 times, because VW does not have a listing for a shim this size. Their listings go up by .05 from .65mm to 1.25mm. I guess mine is just “special”!








Picture 40 – The new bearing race. It is a good idea, when you remove your bearings and races, to PUT THE OLD ONES AWAY before you open the new ones. I had a moment of panic when I found two bearing races on my bench and couldn’t remember which was the new one and which was the old one. Then I realized I had opened both new bearings and they were both new ones. 








Picture 41 - All right. Call me a bad boy. This is not the best way to put in bearing races. However, I am still in the process of welding up my bearing press, so it was not ready to go when I was doing this job. If you are going to be an idiot like me and put in bearing races like this, remember that if you go a wee bit cockeyed you can easily damage the aluminum transmission case. This is a bad thing. It is also a bad thing to use a hammer on the new bearing race. I am actually using an OLD bearing race, (that I got out after I had my new ones seated) to install the new ones. I found that there was enough clearance at the top of the recess so that when fully seated, the old race did not get stuck. You can hear and feel when the bearing race is seated. I went around it carefully and gave it light taps with the hammer all the way around to ensure that is was seated. I then looked to make sure that it was seated. So, to make it clear, this picture is taken when the bearing race was close to fully seated, and I am hammering on an inverted OLD bearing race. Oh, and make sure that you put in the bearing bevel side UP!!!









Picture 42 – Ta Da!! Fully seated.









Picture 43 – Before doing the other housing, I decided that I better reinsert the magnet. I put some sealant on one side to hold it in place. It had to be removed when I cleaned the case halves.








Picture 44 - I am not getting any smarter as I progress. This was VERY tricky. Again, keeping the bearing even required going around with the punch and tapping gently on the back of an old bearing race, and inspecting things often to make sure that everything was aligned and the bearing was going in evenly. That being said, this was probably even dumber than what I did in picture 41.









Picture 45 – Visual inspection to ensure the bearing race is fully seated.









Picure 46 – The new bearing cones.









Picture 47 – I put the bearing on by hand, and then I inverted everything and tapped on a piece of metal on top of the shaft. Never pound directly on the shaft! However, the bearing quickly became cockeyed, going on unevenly so I had to start again.








Picture 48 – I then realized it was better to tap it on directly, with a rubber mallet.








Picture 49 - It is important to install bearings on BOTH sides of the differential.









Picture 50 - I started seeing little rubber bits on the top of the bearing, and realized that perhaps a rubber mallet was not ideal. I cleaned the bearing thoroughly to remove all little bits, and when back to using an old bearing to drive with.








Picture 51 – Notice that I have installed Volkswagen special tool “RAG” into the differential. This is because I need to ensure that both bearings turn, (not one bearing and the differential gears), when I do the bearing preload measurement. I guess I could have welded these parts together, but I wanted to maintain my full slip differential. It IS a family car, after all. If you don’t somehow lock these gears, there is a possibility that only one bearing will actually be turning and the other shaft will not be. The diff gears will move instead of the output flange shaft. 
It is a good idea to remember to remove VW special Tool RAG after you do the preload test.









Picture 52 – Don’t forget to oil the bearings. I did this much more thoroughly than this picture shows. Also note that I used 10w30. This is because it was pretty cold in my unheated Canadian shop….the temp was about freezing. I felt that regular gear oil would be too thick to give an accurate measurement at that temperature. Be sure to oil both bearings.








Picture 53 – Install the bolts. You are likely supposed to install ALL of the tranny bolts, but I just did the ones around the differential. I felt that those on the inside were so far away that they would likely not be a factor in this test. 









Picture 54 – After a gentle tightening of the bolts by hand, I torqued these to the proper torque setting to ensure my preload test would be accurate. I have also installed the output flange just into the shaft.









Picture 55 – Be sure to spin the flange by hand while watching the other flange drive to make sure that both are spinning.









Picture 56 – This is Volkswagen special tool “WTF?”. I understand that you can get another special tool from VW that does the tasks that this tool and VW special tool RAG does, all in one. If you get a price on the real VW tool let me know. I will sell you BOTH VW special tool “WTF?” and VW special tool “RAG” for one-half of whatever they would charge you.








Picture 57 - Time to measure the preload. I am using a MAC dial indicator worth about $300.00. I notice that Broke used a inch pound beam torque wrench. Mine is no better. In fact, its NOT actually mine. If I had 300.00 to invest in a MAC dial indicator, I would have bought another tranny! 









Picture 58 - The ever helpful and knowledgeable Broke (Thanks again Broke!) gave me the specs in this thread:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2892666
He said 11-29 inch pounds. The needle is actually the orange line not the blue indicator line that I set to 30. It appears that I am just within spec at 28 lbs.
I did not measure to get the clearance for shims, as all the info I had was that if I used the same shim size that I had previously, I would likely be all right. It appears that I was lucky, but this was due to the fact that the only thing I was changing was the bearings.
Next stop, the output shaft. That might be a few more days, as I am still waiting for parts.
While I am waiting, feel free to comment or criticize anything I have done. Any pointers on what I did, or am going to do would be very appreciated.



_Modified by PASHAT at 9:30 PM 11-4-2006_


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## Broke (Aug 13, 2001)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_I promise to clean things better. Although my work area is stained, I am trying to keep the tranny clean. Look! I washed the shells! I haven't gone so far that I cannot take things apart and clean them better. I appreciate your input. Thanks.

As the guy who taught me how to work on them said "Clean, clean, clean. Clean more."









_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_Picture 39 – I like to measure things when I can. This shim measured.93mm in most places. In some places it measured .92 and in others .94. I checked and rechecked and re zeroed about 10 times, because VW does not have a listing for a shim this size. Their listings go up by .05 from .65mm to 1.25mm. I guess mine is just “special”!

It could be play in the measuring head on that caliper. I know the models I have of those vary a bit when operating them depending on pressure....I would venture a guess that the shim is a 0.95mm, but as your turning torque tests show, it doesn't matter, as you are in spec. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_Picture 53 – Install the bolts. You are likely supposed to install ALL of the tranny bolts, but I just did the ones around the differential. I felt that those on the inside were so far away that they would likely not be a factor in this test. 

In that other thread, it is in that post I did.... 5 bolts, 18 ft-lbs....but more won't hurt. They just want the case pulled together tight.









_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_
Picture 56 – This is Volkswagen special tool “WTF?”. I understand that you can get another special tool from VW that does the tasks that this tool and VW special tool RAG does, all in one. If you get a price on the real VW tool let me know. I will sell you BOTH VW special tool “WTF?” and VW special tool “RAG” for one-half of whatever they would charge you.

Talking to Vdubs, he mentioned you could have left the flange off, and simply threaded in an 8mm bolt into the stub axle hole. A case bolt or the flange bolt itself could have been used. Tighten it up until it bottoms out (use a socket or washers as a spacer to make it bottom out sooner) then use it to turn the rag-locked diff.









_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_Picture 57 - Time to measure the preload. I am using a MAC dial indicator worth about $300.00. I notice that Broke used a inch pound beam torque wrench. Mine is no better. In fact, its NOT actually mine. If I had 300.00 to invest in a MAC dial indicator, I would have bought another tranny! 

That is a far nicer unit than what I use. Mine is a used unit I got for $60 (?) on eBay....Vdubs has a very nice snap-off unit something like the one you are using that I wanted. I had to ship it off to him, and I bet the muppet never even has used it...that's OK, at the rate I build trans, I wouldn't have used it either















Looks like the diff preload turned out OK http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Broke


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (Broke)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Broke* »_Talking to Vdubs, he mentioned you could have left the flange off, and simply threaded in an 8mm bolt into the stub axle hole. A case bolt or the flange bolt itself could have been used. Tighten it up until it bottoms out (use a socket or washers as a spacer to make it bottom out sooner) then use it to turn the rag-locked diff.









I don't think there is a place to attach an 8mm bolt on my output splines. They are are different on this passat then on most VWs. (You don't compress the flanges and remove a retaining clip and the clips themselves are more like a bent piece of wire than a nice square retaining ring). When I look through the diff holes, I can see right though and the hole is about an inch wide all the way from one side right through to the other. I could drop an 8mm bolt right through the hole. I will try to get a picture to show this. Maybe I am missing something.



_Modified by PASHAT at 7:59 AM 11-10-2006_


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## Broke (Aug 13, 2001)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_
I don't think there is a place to attach an 8mm bolt on my output splines. They are are different on this passat then on most VWs. (You don't compress the flanges and remove a retaining clip and the clips themselves are more like a bent piece of wire than a nice square retaining ring). When I look through the diff holes, I can see right though and the hole is about an inch wide all the way from one side right through to the other. I could drop an 8mm bolt right through the hole. I will try to get a picture to show this. Maybe I am missing something.


Nah, looking at the factory papers again, I see some of the trans had springs behind the flanges, and those are secured with a bolt in the center of the flange. Some flanges did not have springs behind them, and those are secured with a clip.
Scratch that advice then of turning the diff using a bolt








He must have been thinking of the other flange style when he suggested it. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Broke


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (Broke)*

I am taking the day off, since I am awaiting parts. I sid promise to post a picture showing the output shaft slines on the differential. Here is looking in on VW Special Tool RAG:









Picture 59 - The output splines on the diff:
However, I went and looked the gears over carefully and did not see, to my untrained eye, any blueing. The gears are not all the same colour, but none appear to have any strange colouring. Most of my driving is highway, and the gears that I was showing were of first to fourth. I wouldn't be using them enough to heat those ones up, I don't think. In any event, here is a picture of the stack of gears, taken outside, without a flash. Some of those previous pictures were not taken in ideal conditions. I have included 5th gear in this picture. It still has some of VW special tool RAG on it, as I needed to lock it to remove the bolts. 









Picture 60 - The entire gear stack 
I also neglected to mention that VW special tool "WTF?" is welded together. The nut isn't just sitting there loose!


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## stoned_elvis (Feb 15, 2003)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

with changing the bearings on the input, output and diff bearings. what are you guys doinging for back lash. how critical is it on these transmissions. I have a pdf covering this topic. I need to figure out how to post it.


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## Broke (Aug 13, 2001)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (stoned_elvis)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stoned_elvis* »_with changing the bearings on the input, output and diff bearings. what are you guys doinging for back lash. how critical is it on these transmissions. I have a pdf covering this topic. I need to figure out how to post it.


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_Broke (Thanks again Broke!) gave me the specs in this thread:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2892666

It is pretty critical to the bearing life. If swapping major parts, you want to check it and adjust it. If just doing bearing replacement, it is likely the shims you remove will work fine.
Broke


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## Old-man-Dubsy (Jul 25, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (stoned_elvis)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stoned_elvis* »_with changing the bearings on the input, output and diff bearings. *what are you guys doinging for back lash*. how critical is it on these transmissions. I have a pdf covering this topic. I need to figure out how to post it.


Backlash isn't adjustable on these trans.


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## Broke (Aug 13, 2001)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (Old-man-Dubsy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Old-man-Dubsy* »_

Backlash isn't adjustable on these trans.



Doh, I thought he meant bearing preload.








Broke


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (Broke)*

Okay
I have just had a call that the bearing I am missing is in. I will likely be doing major work on this in the next couple of days. I have two important questions. 
The first is with respect to that partly broken tooth that is seen in photo 25. How critical is this one broken part of a tooth. My thought is that it is just on the syncro hub and might have been broken for a long time. I did find it on the magnet. I might have a line on a used one, but it will be weeks before it arrives and the temperature around here is dropping quickly. I would like to get this back together. Should I risk it, or wait.
Second question is with respect to my fifth gear. There is a slight groove on one side of it and the other side is flat. I think it is flat side up, (I think I can see marks from the top washer on the flat side) but can't remember now. I set it carefully aside in a direction I thought I could remember, but I didn't know I was going to be at this for a month! Now I am not sure.


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## Broke (Aug 13, 2001)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_Should I risk it, or wait.

I would wait, but I'm not waiting in the cold. I've never tried using a broken sync hub, so I can't say what will happen if you use it.

_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_Second question is with respect to my fifth gear. There is a slight groove on one side of it and the other side is flat. I think it is flat side up, (I think I can see marks from the top washer on the flat side) but can't remember now.

Correct, groove towards the trans case http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Broke


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## stoned_elvis (Feb 15, 2003)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (Old-man-Dubsy)*

according to volkswagen backlash is ajustable on these trans. I won't print all of it since its copywrited. here is a quote from it.

"DRIVE AXLE - GEAR TOOTH CONTACT PATTERNS
Article Text
1990 Volkswagen Corrado
For Volkswagen Technical Site: 
Copyright © 1998 Mitchell Repair Information Company, LLC
Thursday, March 23, 2000 09:43PM
ARTICLE BEGINNING
1983-93 DRIVE AXLES
Gear Tooth Contact Patterns
All Models
INSPECTION
PRELIMINARY INSPECTION
Wipe lubricant from internal parts. Rotate gears and inspect
for wear or damage. Mount dial indicator to housing, and check
backlash at several points around ring gear. Backlash must be within
specifications at all points. If no defects are found, check gear
tooth contact pattern.
GEAR TOOTH CONTACT PATTERN
NOTE: Drive pattern should be well centered on ring gear teeth.
Coast pattern should be centered, but may be slightly toward
toe of ring gear teeth.
1) Paint ring gear teeth with marking compound. Wrap cloth or
rope around drive pinion flange to act as brake. Rotate ring gear
until clear tooth contact pattern is obtained.
2) Contact pattern will indicate whether correct pinion
bearing mounting shim has been installed and if drive gear backlash
has been set properly. Backlash between drive gear and pinion must be
maintained within specified limits, until correct tooth pattern is
obtained."


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## stoned_elvis (Feb 15, 2003)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

pashat i hope your going to replace those rivets on you diff while its apart. I dont trust those things.


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## Old-man-Dubsy (Jul 25, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (stoned_elvis)*

I take it you didn't read the article fully, it states:-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Mitchell Repair Info.
General information
Gear tooth contact patterns
Please read this first
The following article is for GENERAL INFORMATION purposes only. Information does not SPECIFICALLY apply to all years, makes and models, but is to be used as a general reference guide.*
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Like i said the 02A and 020 trans are not adjustable or even checkable for backlash. You can not move the diff gear or pinion closer or further apart from each other, not without a Tig welder and a milling machine.


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## stoned_elvis (Feb 15, 2003)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (Old-man-Dubsy)*

Im just trying to make sure i have every angle covered when i put this trans back. I going to ask every question possible. I want to do this once. I've learned alot from Broke and phashat. thanks guys. but im sure ill have more questions.


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## HGB (Aug 23, 2002)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

The flat side faces up on the 5th gear, the bevelled washer mark should be there. I will send pages of the manual for help. And hey, clean those parts before you put on those new bearings.


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (HGB)*

I went to my dealer and talked to their "star" tranny mechanic. I’m not sure he knows as much as some of you, but he did tell me that the part that was broken was just a carrier for the hub. It doesn’t appear to have a function except for the hub to move on. I took a file and took the edge off the broken part of the remaining tooth, just in case, but the hub moves smoothly. With winter here, I need to get moving. I started this in my unheated shop a month ago and can’t really move the vehicle now, unless it is back together. If there is a problem, I can put it into a heated shop and start again. I am not going to replace the broken hub, although in a perfect world with time, I would definitely do so.
First of all, I disassembled everything and washed it thoroughly with solvent. Then, I put it back together to the point that I was at previously. I looked at the thrust washer between 2nd and 3rd gear and could see no difference in each side. So I looked for wear marks, and put it in the way that the wear on the washer was consistent with the surfaces on each side. I don’t think there is an up and down.









Picture 61 – Putting on third gear. I cleaned it first. (Look Broke! I really did!)








Picture 62 - Roller Bearing 02J 311-325. Hmm. I thought mine was a 02A. Note that I have removed third gear. The bearing should go on first.









Picture 63 – Look at the difference between the new bearing on the left and mine on the right…..Hope that isn’t due to the 02J versus my 02A. 








Picture 64 - NO!!! The synchro hub does NOT go next. Look carefully and you will see that I am actually installing the bearing race for third gear. It took a few light taps to get the race on. I thought of heating the race, but the bearings are in a plastic sleeve and I would have had to wait for everything to cool down before I could put the bearings in.









Picture 65 – I got to the place where the synchro hub starts to mesh with the splines on the shaft, and could not drive it further, so I got the old race and used it to drive it, again gently using the synchro hub. You have to look carefully to see the second bearing race above the new one.









Picture 66 – The race fully down and in place. There is a long story of how the shaft got so dusty, but I did clean it again.








Picture 67 – The new bearings in place. I then oiled the bearings well.









Picture 68 – Installing third gear.









Picture 69 – Third gear synchro ring installs next. 









Picture 70 – I could not determine which way was up with the synchro hub. However, the bearing race for third is thinner than the bearing race for fourth gear. So I measured the wear marks and think I got it right. I don’t think it really matters which way it is installed. I could see no difference between each side. Let me know if I am wrong!








Picture 71 – Measuring the other side.








Picture 72 – Installing the synchro hub. This takes more care than I knew. You must make sure that the synchro ring shown in picture 69 doesn’t get lodged in the wrong place. It must mesh with the dogs or it will lock up third gear. The synchro ring should be able to move a little after you install the hub, and third gear should be able to be turned freely with the hub up and off third gear.








Picture 73 – Installing the fourth gear synchro ring. Again, use care to align it carefully with the dogs in the synchro hub.








Picture 74 – The new fourth gear bearings.








Picture 75 – Using the old race to drive the new one. Although the following pictures don’t show this, it is important to drive this all the way prior to moving on. 








Picture 76 – Install the bearings. Again, you will notice that the race is not fully seated. I thought I could use the next race to push this one on, but found that it did not work that well. I had to disassemble everything and start again. When I did my repeat, doing it, what I like to refer to as “the RIGHT way” I fully seated the race prior to putting on the bearing.








Picture 77 – Fully oil the bearing.








Picture 78 – Install fourth gear.








Picture 79 – Install the thrust washer. Again, I used wear marks to determine which way was up, but I could see no difference in each side of the thrust washers








Picture 80 – Install the bearing race for the end of the output shaft bearing.








Picture 81 – Using the old race to install the new one.








Picture 82 – The new bottom of the output shaft bearing








Picture 83 – Installing the new bearing
I went on to seat this bearing, and was going to take a picture of it fully seated and the top race fully seated, but the batteries on my camera died (imagine that!). 
I will next be doing the input shaft and the preloads and putting the thing back together.
Your comments and criticisms are welcome!




_Modified by PASHAT at 10:05 PM 11-7-2006_


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## stoned_elvis (Feb 15, 2003)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

from what i read, o2j internals are swappable with the 02a including gears. won't motor oil contaminate the trans oil?


----------



## Broke (Aug 13, 2001)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_I looked at the thrust washer between 2nd and 3rd gear and could see no difference in each side. So I looked for wear marks, and put it in the way that the wear on the washer was consistent with the surfaces on each side. I don’t think there is an up and down.

The only thrust washer on the output shaft that I noticed went on one way is under 1st gear. The other 2 make no mention of facing a particular way.

_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_Putting on third gear. I cleaned it first. (Look Broke! I really did!)

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I'm not the only one telling you it should be cleaned















I'm so pleased, I won't even freak out over the wood chips and dust on the new parts during install















(If you think I am bad, you should hear my mentor...everything in the pic not related to the trans should be off the bench, the wood bench should be bagged or covered in plastic, there should be multiple rinse tanks for the parts, lint free rags, etc.!)

_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_Roller Bearing 02J 311-325. Hmm. I thought mine was a 02A.

You'll find 020 parts in there too, like the shims under the output shaft are an 020 part number, just like I can find air cooled Beetle parts inside the 020 (1st gear sync ring is an air cooled part in the 020), and unless I am mistaken, some of the 020 needle gear bearings are labeled with an 02A number as well. Totally normal.

_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_I thought of heating the race, but the bearings are in a plastic sleeve and I would have had to wait for everything to cool down before I could put the bearings in.

Just so you're aware, spec is to heat the inner races of bearings to 100C or 212F prior to install. The idea is that they expand, slip on, and contract to a tight fit on the shaft.

_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_The race fully down and in place. There is a long story of how the shaft got so dusty, but I did clean it again.








http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_Install the thrust washer. Again, I used wear marks to determine which way was up, but I could see no difference in each side of the thrust washers

I don't think there is a difference in that one.
Looks like it is coming along http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Broke


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (Broke)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Broke* »_
(If you think I am bad, you should hear my mentor...everything in the pic not related to the trans should be off the bench, the wood bench should be bagged or covered in plastic, there should be multiple rinse tanks for the parts, lint free rags, etc.!)

Broke


Your Mentor is right. I am going to have to wash things again. This will be made easier by the fact that when I was finished yesterday, I noticed a bearing race. Now you will note in the pictures that all the used bearing races have a slight discoloration to them, and the new one is bright silver. I had the tranny back together, and found a bright silver race sitting on the table. It was getting pretty late, so I have to take another look at it, but I am concerned that somewhere along the way yesterday, I put an old race back on. I can't think that I did, but I am concerned about it.
"No old parts on the table. Put them in the old bag and take them off." Why isn't there a symbol for "kicks self". I might get a chance to use that heat to 212 advice yet.


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (stoned_elvis)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stoned_elvis* »_ won't motor oil contaminate the trans oil?

Motor oil is just a thinner version of tranny oil, I understand. It will have the effect of thinning the transmission oil very slightly, in these small amount. I will be using semi synthetic oil in this, when I am done. It would definitely contaminate automatic transmission fluid. 
Others might correct me on this.


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

Well, some good and some pretty bad news tonight. Here is how it progressed.








Picture 84 - Here is how things were left. Top race fairly tight.









Picture 85 - Measuring the shim, just for kicks. 1.04-1.05 









Picture 86 - Shim in the well from hell. 








Picture 87 - The bearing that goes in the well from hell.








Picture 88 - Again, I used an old race to drive in the new race.









Picture 89 - Notice the gap below the race. I tapped it and it felt very well seated, and I was very concerned about this, but I found that the race is curved on the bottom and I needn’t have been so concerned….more on this later.










Picture 90 – I put oil in the well, and installed the output shaft into place.









Picture 91 - Next the case bearing for the top of the output shaft goes in.








Picture 92 – It was about here that I remembered to remove VW special tool “RAG”









Picture 93 – Torquing the output shaft bolts. Broke gave me the specs of 18 foot pounds plus a ¼ turn. I thought it was 18 newton meters, but I was wrong on this. More on this later.










Picture 94 – Torque should be 12-16. Mine was 20-22 inch pounds and felt uneven. Something was wrong.









Picture 95 – I disassemble and drive the race down. Note that once again I am driving the old race onto the new, not driving directly onto the new race.








Picture 96 – My boy tells me that he has the new shop press welded together enough to use. Time to put it to its first use and make sure that the bottom bearing is well seated. It wasn’t but it sure became well seated.








Picture 97 – Again the old race is used to drive the new one, with a flat piece of steel between it and the 20 ton jack.








Picture 98 – I pull the race in the well from hell, as I am concerned that it was not seated fully on the shim.








Picture 99 - Although it is hard to see in this picture, I ground off the ends of the puller and sharpened them for this bearing pull. The puller cost me 12.00, so I was prepared to alter it for a single purpose.
It was at this point that I tried everything again, and got a torque now of about 40 inch pounds. Things were getting worse! 








Picture 100 – Then I started to focus on the other bearing. I found that I was able to move it significantly. Found the problem!








Picture 101 – Now it is fully seated!








Picture 102 – Looks better from this side too.








Picture 103 – Initial turning torque with bearings unsettled was about 12. That looks good.








Picture 104 – Turning torque drops down to about 6 after bearing settle. Hmm. Not so sure about that!








Now here is the bad news. In torquing this to 18 NM + ¼ turn (which is the WRONG amount and NOT what Broke had given me….completely my fault!!) during the last install, I broke a bolt. Those final torque settings were taken with this bolt broken, and the others torqued to 18NM and no ¼ turn.
So NOW what do I do? I have thought about welding the bolt together and then I thought about removing it ( which is REALLY hard to do without taking the output shaft all apart AGAIN, right down to the plate and starting everything all over). I thought of welding a nut to the plate but am not sure that there is clearance. YUCK! Help!!
Things were going so well until then!


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## stoned_elvis (Feb 15, 2003)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

I bought the same puller for that race. Harbor freight? I could'nt justify spending $200 on blind hole pullers. man that sucks that the bolt snapped. I feel for you.


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (stoned_elvis)*

Well!

I am not sure what happened with that bolt breaking. I torqued the bolt to 18 newton Meters plusa quarter turn but found that 18 NM is only 13 foot pounds, so I was 13 foot pounds plus 1/4 turn.....I should have been under what it was supposed to be. 
In any event, I have to deal with this and it really isn't a huge deal. Would be no deal at all if I could install the bolt without removing everything on the gear stack right down to first gear, but I can't see any way to do that.
I could use the holes in the tranny for a guide, pull the output shaft up about an inch but keep the other bolts in their holes, push the broken bit into its hole and weld it back together. I have about an inch of stub left to do this with. That should likely work, won't it?
Another option I have considered is to grind the bolt off at the plate, then drill through it, tap threads into it, and then bolt the right length of bolt through from the bottom. 
Decisions, decisions.....any thoughts from anyone on this?


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## Old-man-Dubsy (Jul 25, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

The bolt is a special bolt and comes with the bearing plate and the bearing, the bolts are a one time use, as are just about all 1/4 turn (stretch) bolts. 
I wouldn't waste my time attempting a repair on a part like that, it just gets replaced, would you really want to spend the time stripping, cleaning, drilling or welding only to find one of the others snap on reassembly. If it was from a trans where the parts aren't available then sure find a repair method that replaces all 4 but it's not. 
If the job's worth doing do it properly. I don't know if this is your first trans rebuild but as i say to a trainee of mine, things going wrong is part of the learning, just make sure you backtrack to correct any faults properly, you can't expect perfection on your first go unless you're super human or working with someone that's expert enough to guide you fully. 
Well that's my opinion







.


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (Old-man-Dubsy)*

I value your opinion. It had not occurred to me that these were one time use stretch bolts that should not be stretched twice.
How the heck does VW expect you to replace the shim with the right size when you need to undo the stretch bolts after measuring to replace the washer with the right size shim. Surely they don't expect to replace this part, which costs about 100.00, each time.


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

Is replying to yourself one step away from talking to yourself?
In thinking this through more, those stretch bolts must be pretty important to get preload right. If I torque them when they have already been stretched, I expect that they will not have proper pressure and therefore the preload will be off. But if it within spec, will this matter? Yes, I know my preload is too low as it sits. Can't the torque on the bolts be used to set the proper preload, if you are using the right size of shim?


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## HGB (Aug 23, 2002)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

Well I was just looking in the manual, I dont see in the manual about removing the studs from bearing plate, and I dont think you could get it seperate. You best bet is to get another one used or new. 18 ft lbs plus a 1/4 turn is right. I dont see how you snapped that stud but anything is possible, could just have been weak. Better it broke now than when in the car running. The other thing, the turning torque on the pinion shaft should be measured with the pinion shaft only, bolted to specs with nothing on it, no gears on it, should be just the shaft, and only be check bolted to the bellhousing, not with the other half of the case.


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## Old-man-Dubsy (Jul 25, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_Is replying to yourself one step away from talking to yourself? 

Yes, i'm afraid it is







.


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_
In thinking this through more, those stretch bolts must be pretty important to get preload right. If I torque them when they have already been stretched, I expect that they will not have proper pressure and therefore the preload will be off. But if it within spec, will this matter? Yes, I know my preload is too low as it sits. Can't the torque on the bolts be used to set the proper preload, if you are using the right size of shim? 


Stretch doesn't affect preload, when doing a clearance check like that you tighten to the torque spec only, the stretch to yield is a final assemble spec. 
Most stretch bolts will stretch twice and survive but some will snap which is what makes them 1 time use, a second cycle cannot be guaranteed.


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (HGB)*

Thanks. I did notice that the preload seemed to be the same when I had the other case half on and when I had it off.
Will it matter if the gears are on or off when preload is checked? 
I am careful and use torque wrenches where most other people would not. I waited for it to click and then set my torque wrench to the 12 o clock position, then turned it to the three o'clock position. It really tightened up those other bolts. But remember, this was 5 pounds below spec when I started, so all of those are too low right now, and very tight. I was just about to the 3 o'clock position when I felt the bolt give. I couldn't believe that it snapped. 
Those bolts do not come out and appear to be pressed in to the plate and there is a shoulder on the bottom side of the plate. It might be visible in some pictures. 
This is the type of information that I thank you all for helping me with. Hopefully these posts will provide a wealth of info for those who follow. (I bet Stoned_Elvis will buy a new carrier assembly!)


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## Old-man-Dubsy (Jul 25, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_Thanks. I did notice that the preload seemed to be the same when I had the other case half on and when I had it off.
*Will it matter if the gears are on or off when preload is checked?* 


No


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## Broke (Aug 13, 2001)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_Thanks. I did notice that the preload seemed to be the same when I had the other case half on and when I had it off.


_Quote, originally posted by *Broke from the other thread* »_Output shaft - 
The procedure looks to be the same as for the 020, so that is covered on my site. The only changes look to be the bearing clamping plate bolt torque, for the 02A it is 18 ft-lbs + 1/4 turn; and the final turning torque of the shaft with new bearings....your 02A should be 12-16 inch-pounds of turning torque..
Install the small bearing and 0.65mm shim, don't rotate shaft to settle bearings, measure play, add play, 0.65mm shim, and a preload constant of 0.20mm to get final shim size. They look to use the same 020 shims and part numbers, so those can be found on my site too.

No mention of bolting the case together








I also wanted to say good job on the pics, I know doing a job and stopping to snap pics is a PITA....







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Broke - Trainee


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (Broke)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Broke* »_
I also wanted to say good job on the pics, I know doing a job and stopping to snap pics is a PITA.
Broke - Trainee

How else could I have guys like you watching over my shoulder? Thanks. By the way, there is no sense in reinventing the wheel on these pictures. If you want to take them and use any for any purpose, such as adding to your site some 02A info, feel free to use them in any way you wish.
One of my problems is that I live in a rural area of Manitoba, Canada. I there is a VW satellite dealer in a City nearby, but they pretty much have to order everything in terms of parts. Each time I have to order something that I need right away, I have to wait a week. 
Those who know what's what will have noticed that the bearing on the carrier with the broken bolt is only one of two that I did not originally replace. There is also a needle bearing behind first that I did not get to, as it meant pulling first gear off, and my puller would not reach all that easily. The needle bearings so far have been in pretty good shape, and first and second gear get little use. However, this tranny has about 250,000 KM on it. Replacing that broken bolt AND getting a new bearing is probably a good idea. Really, doing it right is the only choice.
I take it that I have to bolt the case together to do the input shaft? (Might as well get THAT straight now!)
And, my turning torque is down to about 6 inch pounds on the output shaft...below the spec of 12-16. Should I order a thicker shim? Or is this low number likely due to the fact that the bearing plate is not torqued down properly yet?


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (Old-man-Dubsy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Old-man-Dubsy* »_
Stretch doesn't affect preload, when doing a clearance check like that you tighten to the torque spec only, the stretch to yield is a final assemble spec. 


I missed the subtle info here, the first time reading this. 
So, when measuring preload, you tighten to 18 foot pounds. If you get a proper preload measurement, that is the measurement that matters. THEN you tighten to spec by adding the 1/4 turn. And, am I right in thinking that the preload MEASUREMENT might change from spec after the stretch because the bearing is being drawn in tighter to the race with the 1/4 turn of additional pull on the bolt? In other words, once you have it properly assembled, the spec of 12-18 lbs might not be what you would measure....you have to check preload without the 1/4 turn? (It is only the right measurement for prior to the 1/4 turn?)Or will the preload stay the same after the bolts are torqued because the bearing and race are already as tight as they will be? This would be interesting, because it would mean that you could not use the spec number of 12-18 on a fully assembled tranny.
I don't really understand stretch bolts...and I am not sure I like them.
It looks like this job will cost me about $500.00 without touching a gear. I hope my gears are in good enough shape for this to be worth it!


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## Old-man-Dubsy (Jul 25, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

Can't you order your parts from a bigger dealer and have them shipped to you, cut out the middle man.
No need to bolt the case on for the shaft preload, case is only needed for the diff.
The preload shouldn't alter with the extra 1/4 turn, it should already be fully seated, you are just stretching the bolt with the extra turn. 
Your bearing preload will be less now, you lost 25% of the clamp force.


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## Broke (Aug 13, 2001)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_I take it that I have to bolt the case together to do the input shaft? (Might as well get THAT straight now!)

Yes, as the input shaft is supported on each end with a tapered bearing in each half of the case. 
The output shaft is supported on one end with a roller bearing, and that is free to slide along the shaft (in comparison to the clamped down tapered bearings), so it won't contribute to preload, so that half of the case is not needed. The preload is between the clamping plate and the tapered bearing. 
The input shaft and diff are supported by taper bearings without clamp plates because the case halves act as the clamp plate. This is why it is required to have the case bolted together for those 2 adjustments. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_And, my turning torque is down to about 6 inch pounds on the output shaft...below the spec of 12-16. Should I order a thicker shim? Or is this low number likely due to the fact that the bearing plate is not torqued down properly yet?

I'd wait until the new clamping plate is installed, and wouldnt pay any attention to the figures without the parts properly installed.

_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_So, when measuring preload, you tighten to 18 foot pounds. If you get a proper preload measurement, that is the measurement that matters. THEN you tighten to spec by adding the 1/4 turn.

No, tighten to 18 plus 1/4 turn.

_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_And, am I right in thinking that the preload MEASUREMENT might change from spec after the stretch because the bearing is being drawn in tighter to the race with the 1/4 turn of additional pull on the bolt?

Yes, I think it would, as it is pulling the clamping plate down tighter.

_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_In other words, once you have it properly assembled, the spec of 12-18 lbs might not be what you would measure....you have to check preload without the 1/4 turn?

Nope, check with the 1/4 turn added.

_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_Or will the preload stay the same after the bolts are torqued because the bearing and race are already as tight as they will be?

No, it'll make the bearing tighter I'd think.

_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_This would be interesting, because it would mean that you could not use the spec number of 12-18 on a fully assembled tranny.

The only time that spec would be used is when the trans is stripped and the output shaft is bolted into the clutch housing only and the turning torque is measured. The turning torque on the output shaft on a fully assembled trans that is turning all those gears (and diff and the preload on it) when it spins will be far greater than it is on the shaft spinning by itself in the bearing, so the 12-18 spec is only good in that one situation during the rebuild. 
The diff measurement is measuring only the diff as well, without an output shaft installed, so you're reading only those 2 tapered diff carrier bearing turning torque measurements.

_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_I don't really understand stretch bolts...and I am not sure I like them.

Old Man Dubsy is the one to ask about bolt stuff, he knows a good bit about the applications and reasons behind them.
The factory papers I have do not mention them as being a stretch bolt, nor does it say "always renew" as it does with every other single part that they want to be used only once (such as the 4 sealing rings for the bolts in question).....but they may presume you are doing the job for a rebuild, and knowing the bearing is available only with a new clamp plate, and thus new bolts, they may not have mentioned that the item is a one time use item.
That being said, I don't think (I've not checked the nut/stud grade and size specs yet or anything) that the factory spec of 18 ft-lbs + 1/4 is to the yield point of the bolt/stud...and I'm pretty positive your 13 ft-lbs + 1/4 turn isn't near the yield point for the bolt....so I'm not sure why it snapped
















_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_It looks like this job will cost me about $500.00 without touching a gear. I hope my gears are in good enough shape for this to be worth it!

It gets expensive....especially when you insist on replacing all the little things inside that should be replaced when the trans is opened, and replacing the things that wear while you are in there.
This is what I use from the trans when I rebuild an 020 (and the case, not pictured)...








...and this is what gets replaced (the rivet stud is replaced with a bolt kit of course)...








You can cut corners with cheaper bearings and sync rings and seals and so on, by not buying OEM parts, but the savings isn't worth it in my opinion, so that means paying a little extra for german parts like sync rings from Laso and bearings from ***/INA and seals from Kaco and so on







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Add in the time it takes to clean everything, sandblast and then bead blast the case, zinc plate the exterior bits (ugly parts on a beautiful beadblasted case is no good, and refinished is cheaper than new, and I plate them in house so it is easy to do, so I plate the release arm, drain plugs and flanges), and you have quite a bit invested in a rebuilt trans.








When they're smooth like butter and shift nice and are nice and quiet though, it is all worth it. Too bad they don't stay nice looking longer....I think I'll anodize my next case








Broke


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (Broke)*

Here’s tonight’ pictures, for all you addicts out there who like to see a fellow VW er suffer! Text is below pictures.








Picture One hundred and Six - I went and retorqued the three remaining bolts to 18 foot pounds (which I calculated to 216 inch pounds, n’est pas?) Then I did the preload check. It was 8 at most, and was about 6-8 at all times…often at 6. This is below spec. Perhaps I cleaned everything too well? If only I had left that grime there!









Picture 107 - Doing a preload test for the output shaft, what I like to refer to as ‘the RIGHT way’!









Picture 108 - Just want to see some of you shed a few tears. (I am sure I could just cut that bolt off, punch it out, cut threads into the plate and thread a new bolt in from the bell housing. Just look at that shoulder…that would take a lot of threads! WARNING FOR THOSE LITERAL READERS: I am Kidding. Do it right!)








Picture 109 - First gear prevents the removal of the bolt without first removing first gear.








Picture 110 – Those shoulders do look thick enough to get good threads into!!

The following pictures are about what is coming next. I will be replacing that carrier bearing with the new bolts attached, and will likely work on the other parts while I am awaiting the arrival of that part.








Picture 111 - I will be replacing the reverse gear shaft bearings. 








Picture 112 - What I did not realize was that the race was still in the block. How the HECK do you get THAT out?










Picture 113 – I will be replacing the bearing on the bottom of the input shaft








Picture 114 - I will also, of course, replace the bearing race for the bottom of the input shaft. However, I see that there appears to be no shoulder for this. How do you determine how far to press this in? Any tips or advice out there?








Picture 115 – The bearing at the top of the input shaft. Looks fairly straight forward…at least when the bearing is still in the bag!








Picture 116 - The bearing for the top of the input shaft, for 5th gear. What is the assembly called that this goes into?









Picture 117 – I found that I had ordered the bearing that goes behind first gear. I had meant to order the second gear bearing, but at least there is one less that I have to buy!

Am I missing anything? All thoughts, opinions, criticism and praise are welcome. (Especially praise.)




_Modified by PASHAT at 7:35 AM 11-10-2006_


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (Broke)*


_Quote »_...and this is what gets replaced (the rivet stud is replaced with a bolt kit of course)...
Broke


I don't know Broke....some of those parts look a wee bit "filthy"!!!!
HAHAHA!!!


_Modified by PASHAT at 9:06 PM 11-9-2006_


----------



## HGB (Aug 23, 2002)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

You will have to take off all those gears from the pinion shaft if you want an accurate reading of turning torque, and that broken stud has to taken care of. Did you try to take it out of the plate? You will have to pull all those gear off and try to get it out, I think it was just pressed in.


----------



## HGB (Aug 23, 2002)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (stoned_elvis)*

By the way Elvis, did you check the price on the blind hole puller set from snap on? with the biggest puller out of the set being the one for the small pinion race its about $1400!!, otc wants $780. And these stop at about 30 mm. I would get the right tool for the job, but sometimes you have to be creative and come up with some real special tools.


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## RaraK69 (Jan 16, 2001)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (HGB)*


_Quote, originally posted by *HGB* »_You will have to take off all those gears from the pinion shaft if you want an accurate reading of turning torque, 

reason for that? never seen that in the manual on 02a's...


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## stoned_elvis (Feb 15, 2003)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (HGB)*


_Quote, originally posted by *HGB* »_By the way Elvis, did you check the price on the blind hole puller set from snap on? with the biggest puller out of the set being the one for the small pinion race its about $1400!!, otc wants $780. And these stop at about 30 mm. I would get the right tool for the job, but sometimes you have to be creative and come up with some real special tools. 

i have checked it out. i dont have any problems buying tools but i think i would only use this tool once. i even thought about makeing one on a lathe. i check ebay daily. i have time to think about it since my road block are chewed up reverese gears.


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (stoned_elvis)*

Here is what I have done today:
I ordered the new bearing cage.
I ordered a new circlip for the shaft below 2nd gear. And I ordered a second one just in case.
I ordered a 1.05 and a 1.10 shim
I phoned the dealer back and ordered the four little round o rings that I found out, when I called back, did not come with the assembly.
I responded to this thread: 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2922164
(Funny stuff...and room for more funny stuff!)
I looked into getting that broken shifter hub assembly.
I plan to work on the input shaft tomorrow. Any thoughts on an easy way to remove that reverse shaft bearing race. I also need information about how to set the bearing race on the bottom (engine side) of the input shaft. There is no shoulder for that that I can see. Does it push in from the interior of the shell or the bell housing side? How do you know when to stop? 


_Modified by PASHAT at 6:04 PM 11-10-2006_


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

I was able to use that cheap puller to get the reverse bearing out, with heat. Will post pictures later when I have more time. I am still unsure of that bottom bearing race for the input shaft. It appears that it can be inserted from either side, which means that it can be pushed too far in. It will, when the input shaft tube is installed, likely back into that, but obviously the placement of this race is pretty important and cannot be off by a few thousands of an inch. Any specs in the manual? Any advice?


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

Here is todays photo shoot, so far:









Picture 118 - I heated the back side of the reverse bearing holder with a torch to heat it up.










Picture 119 - I applied something cold to the bearing to cool it off. This, for those of you who haven’t seen it, is snow. It is basically just frozen water but is somehow different from ice. I could have used either snow or ice, as there is plenty outside my shop. Now, there is little bits of snow on my work table. Those bits will still be there when I go out later on. 
Hence my rush to get this done.

I tried all sorts of things to get this bearing out. I tried using vice grips, after I heated it, but they couldn’t grab the wee bit that was sticking out. It appears to be a bit rounded. Then I thought of a bearing separator that I could wedge in, but the bearing could not be accessed this way by the parts of the case that stick up higher than it. I also tried to “slam” it, which Old Man Dubsy told me was more of a firm planting on the wooden table from a few inches up. It did not work. Perhaps the case needed to be hotter. 
Finally I tried a chisel, which was a mistake. The bearing is actually surrounded by a lip in the case. NO WAY to get a chisel in there. The gap between the bearing and the case is recessed. See later pictures. All I did was bang up the case. No real harm done, but I had to make sure that no bits of aluminum were pushed into the exposed seat for the bearing.
I was going to try to thread a bolt into the bearing race at the bottom where it narrows, but then I thought of my cheap 12.00 puller. Surely that wouldn’t work……








Picture 120 – Wrong – O! With a little modification this had potential. I re-heated the case. (Now, why would it have cooled off? The temp was only -5 C……..You can talk in Celsius, can’t you)








Picture 121 – Success. The case is on its side so that I can heat on one side and pull on the other.








Picture 122 – The damage I did with the chisel method. What did someone say about not being able to expect perfection on your first tranny rebuild. Also note the large hole in the case above the reverse bearing hole. This is the place where the bearing for the input shaft should go. It might look like there is a shoulder on the bottom, but the hole actually gets bigger there. There is nothing to prevent the bearing from being pushed too deep, I don’t think. Since this bearings placement will have an effect on preload of the input shaft, I would like to get this right. Should I just press it in flush? Which side should I press from? 








Picture 123 – I started the bearing by hand.








Picture 124 - I used a mallet and a piece of wood to drive this. The contact surface of the bearing race is very small, so I did not use the old bearing at this point. I was not sure about using heat to assist here. Seems to me that if this got too hot it might damage the plastic needle bearing sleeve.








Picture 125 – I then made sure that this bearing was seated. I had to line the old bearing race up carefully so as to make sure that it was pushing only on the edges of the new one. I was concerned that if it slid over the force would damage the needle bearings or their plastic carrier.
With some assistance on the procedures to get the input shaft done, I will continue to make progress.
Thanks to so many for all the assistance so far. It has been very appreciated. I welcome all comments and also all criticism. I don’t want to post something that is wrong for others to see, so correct me if I make an error.



_Modified by PASHAT at 8:09 PM 11-11-2006_


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## Old-man-Dubsy (Jul 25, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

When heating the case you have to heat all the case so that it all expands, local heating never works unless you get it really really hot (not advised on alloy or cast).
The bearing should have a lip, it has to have a physical stop to set the pre-load. What does the old bearing race look like? It's should have a ring round it.
Chisel







, you know that's a tool for damaging stuff, stuff you want to break. I'm fairly sure a chisel isn't in the list of tools required for trans work







.


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (Old-man-Dubsy)*

Chisel? I was sure that I was using VW special tool "DumbArse". Okay. I learned my lesson. Never again. At least I am admitting my mistakes and not trying to hide my stupidity. As if I could.
The race for that bearing does not have a ring/lip around it. The one that I removed also did not have a ring around it. Both have flat sides. You can see the bearing race in picture 114. That is exactly the same as the original. No lip like the other bearings on the top side of the tranny...it is like the one that goes in the well from hell, except the well has a bottom to it to stop the bearing. 
I presume that the bearing race has to install by pushing the wide side in first, as the wide side is rounded. My guess is that it should go in until it is flush. It might bottom out if the tranny input shaft seal holder was bolted into place, but I don' think that would be a reliable stop. 
I'm sure there IS no stop on this tranny! And I agree that it needs one What does Bentley say about this?

_Quote, originally posted by *Old-man-Dubsy* »_Chisel







, you know that's a tool for damaging stuff, *stuff you want to break. * 

This tranny is starting to fall into that category.....!


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## Old-man-Dubsy (Jul 25, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

It has a lip, it shows the lip on Etka and you can see it here.


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (Old-man-Dubsy)*

Yup....I can see that lip. Mine does not have the lip...either on the one I got nor the one I replaced. I will post pictures of what I took out and what I have....definitely no lip on either.
I hope that you didn't take that tranny all apart just to check!


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## Old-man-Dubsy (Jul 25, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

What bearing have you got 085 311 123D 22x45x16.6?
It has to have a stop for the bearing.


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_I hope that you didn't take that tranny all apart just to check!

Might have, na it's G60ings photo.


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## Broke (Aug 13, 2001)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_I don't know Broke....some of those parts look a wee bit "filthy"!!!!
HAHAHA!!!

I would hope so, they've all been removed from a used trans (except the gaskets, those are new and put in for the pic)








My papers show that bearing for the input shaft as being pressed from the inside of the trans case towards the outside to install it. The drawing also shows what looks like a lip on the outer race to catch the bore.








Broke


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## Old-man-Dubsy (Jul 25, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

What are the car details, eng and trans code, car and year (10th letter of vin)?


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (Broke)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Broke* »_I would hope so, they've all been removed from a used trans (except the gaskets, those are new and put in for the pic) 
Broke

I was referring to the speck of dust that I saw on one of the sync rings. 
You do wonderful work Broke. I wish you were my local tranny guy. 

Anyway, I was wrong about the lip, and I have pictures to prove it....!! More to follow.


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

Here's the rest of the story:
I feel like SUCH a moron. I have the WRONG bearing race. The right bearing race for the bottom of the input shaft is Timkin Bearing JLM127130. (I think….darn bearing numbers are SO hard to read on Timkins. EDIT -In looking at it closer, I think that the number might actually be JLM127120 EDIT2 - It appears that the right number is actually JLM12712B and VW is the only source for it). I offer my sincerest apologies to all, especially to Old Man Dubsy, who saved my butt. Your expertise is what this forum is all about.
I got my bearings mixed up. I confused the bearing from the bottom of the output shaft with the bearing from the bottom of the input shaft. When I went to check and figure this out, I saw that the bearings were a different size. 








Picture 126 - Here is a picture of the three bearing races. I thought that the top left one was the one I took out, but that is for the bottom of the output shaft, not the bottom of the input shaft.








Picture 127 – Here is a picture of the right race, on the left, and the incorrect one I almost put in, on the right. Clearly, the right bearing has a lip on it. (The one on the left is also upside down, just to show the numbers.)

These came from the bearing shop. I don’t think I had the race out when I ordered it, for some reason, or I thought I didn’t. The bearing expert told me that that bearing only had two cups (both without shoulders). Somehow, I sorted out which one it was.








Picture 128 – Measuring the shim for the top of the input shaft. It’s a 1.10mm.









Picture 129 – The shim goes in first, BEFORE you put the bearing race in. Clean everything with a lint free cloth. You don’t want to make a mistake here and have grit below the shim.








Picture 130 – The bearing race goes in next.








Picture 131 – My boy got my bearing press finished, finally. I used it to push in the bearing. However, I a	m a moron and presumed that the bottom was flat. It isn’t. The two carriers for the fifth gear shifter protrude in odd spots. I should have levelled this with bars underneath. As a result, the bearing got pushed in pretty cockeyed. I had to push on the high side and it made quite a snap when it seated. 








Picture 132 – It did seat nicely, however.








Picture 133 – I installed the upper bearing loose on the shaft.








Picture 134 - I think this might have been a mistake. I pressed the upper race, the thrust washer and the bearing all on at the same time. It looks like everything seated, but that thrush washer is really tight between the upper race and the bearing. In other words, it will not turn freely. Should it? Please note that that is a wooden board between the end of the shaft and the metal table.








Picture 135 – The end of the input shaft. This is the little bearing, loosely fitted to the shaft.









Picture 136 – Pushing on the bearing for the bottom of the input shaft. Again, not the board protecting the end of the shaft from metal to metal contact.









Picture 137 – Checking the fit into the WRONG bearing race, before I realized that I had the wrong one.
Again, sorry for all the confusion, and thanks for setting me straight. 
I guess I have to buy a NEW race and can’t use the old one? It’s not good enough that the bearings on the shaft are new?
It does not appear that I can get just the race from VW and likely can’t get it from my bearing supplier, so if I don’t reuse the race, I will have an extra bearing for “next time”.
Once I get the rest of the bearings installed, what are the next steps for reassembly?

_Modified by PASHAT at 9:20 PM 11-11-2006_


_Modified by PASHAT at 8:44 AM 11-13-2006_


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## Broke (Aug 13, 2001)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_I offer my sincerest apologies to all, especially to Old Man Dubsy, who saved my butt. Your expertise is what this forum is all about.

He does know a fair bit about them, and he doesn't have to look things up. He can just look at the pic, see the trans would have a bearing with a lip, and be right. To be sure, he'll look it up and double check, but he was right from just looking at it the first time....and he does that most of the time.









_Quote, originally posted by *Old-man-Dubsy* »_I don't know if this is your first trans rebuild but as i say to a trainee of mine, things going wrong is part of the learning, just make sure you backtrack to correct any faults properly, you can't expect perfection on your first go unless you're super human *or working with someone that's expert enough to guide you fully*. 

My first trans rebuild, which is still _silky smooth _in my GTI, was perfection....well, I bungled a few seals (the one would have sealed, but I marred the outside, and wanted perfection, so I yanked it







), but the rebuild itself went very smoothly. 
I set up a camera in my garage with speakers and a microphone wired into the house, running a video and audio conversation with someone on MSN....guess who that was








I did the engine, suspension, brakes and rebuilt trans into the GTI at the same time, and was so paranoid about the engine or something falling out, and I drove it around the block before realizing it felt strange around the corners as I pulled into the driveway, and it was then I remembered I rebuilt the trans and used a 3.94 R&P....I hadn't even realized anything was done with the trans, I had forgotten it was my first rebuild, mixing 3 trans into one, and all the gears seemed to work! I took it for another test drive just to listen to the trans, but it was fine http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_I guess I have to buy a NEW race and can’t use the old one? It’s not good enough that the bearings on the shaft are new?

*Yes*, a _new_ bearing race. Not good enough the bearing is new if you mate it to a used outer race. Never mix bearings....even something like the 2 diff carrier bearings, which are the same on each side; the left bearing and race stays on the left, the right on the right, no mixing.

_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_It does not appear that I can get just the race from VW and likely can’t get it from my bearing supplier, so if I don’t reuse the race, I will have an extra bearing for “next time”.

It'll make a nice paperweight to remind you to double check part numbers and details prior to ordering








At worst, it is about a $25 mistake, as the OE VW bearing from Impex is like $22








You know what I hate about rebuilding trans? When you screw up and grab a hot bearing or gear, you know, after heating it to 212F (100C) to install it....have you ran into that problem much in this rebuild















Broke


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (Broke)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Broke* »_
You know what I hate about rebuilding trans? When you screw up and grab a hot bearing or gear, you know, after heating it to 212F (100C) to install it....have you ran into that problem much in this rebuild















Broke


You don't have to hit me with a hot hammer. I get the subtle point. 
To all you Internet viewers out there....Broke is telling me (for the second time) how important it is to heat up the bearings. I have been too afraid to do this without an accurate way to measure the temperature. I had thought about getting a little deep frier and putting tranny oil in it and heating it up. You would only heat up the bearings on the shafts and not the races in the tranny shells. Heat expands the bearings so they slide on without damaging the shafts and when they contract they seat fully. You would not want to heat up the bearing races as they would then be bigger that they should be and not fit in the holes well.
Where is that smilie for "tail between my legs"? How big of a mistake is this?
Also, I am concerned about that bearing, thrust washer bearing race on the top of the input shaft. Should the thrust washer be really tight between the race for the fifth gear synchro and the top bearing for the input shaft. Should I pull it and redo it or is it all right. It looks like the bearing is fully seated but I don't know whether I installed that right....besides the 212 heating thing. I *KNOW* I didn't do that right.


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## Broke (Aug 13, 2001)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_You don't have to hit me with a hot hammer. I get the subtle point. 

SNL was over, i just wanted to bust chops








Not super major, but it is in the papers to heat them. You also have some room to play on the temps....red hot is too hot. If you can pick it up, it is too cold








I've got a little Raytek temp gun (oddly enough, a gift from Vdubs







) I use to check temps, they can be had for $25 on eBay now.

_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_Also, I am concerned about that bearing, thrust washer bearing race on the top of the input shaft. Should the thrust washer be really tight between the race for the fifth gear synchro and the top bearing for the input shaft. Should I pull it and redo it or is it all right. It looks like the bearing is fully seated but I don't know whether I installed that right....besides the 212 heating thing. I *KNOW* I didn't do that right.

As far as the papers go, they show to press on the tapered bearing, then put the thrust washer into place, then to press on the inner race sleeve for the 5th bearing. They make no mention of anything else, so I would assume, not having done an 02A, that the parts would press together, and the thrust washer would be held tight by the 2 pressed on parts on each side of it.
Old Man Dubsy would be able to tell you for sure though. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Broke


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (Broke)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Broke* »_
I set up a camera in my garage with speakers and a microphone wired into the house, running a video and audio conversation with someone on MSN....guess who that was








Broke


"God"
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2925234

Ha ha ha!!!!


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*









Picture 138








Picture 139








Picture 140








Picture 141









Picture 142








Picture 143








Picture 144








Picture 145








Picture 146








Picture 147








Picture 148








Picture 149








Picture 150








Picture 151








Picture 152








Picture 153

*Res Ipsa Loquitur !!!*


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## Odiejlg (May 18, 2002)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (Broke)*

A note on heating bearings...
You can get a bearing heater on eBay for about $30 plus shipping. eBay auction
We use this type where I work; they have proven to be effective- to gage the temprature, you use a crayon that melts at a specific temprature level.


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## SlowCorrado (Dec 11, 2001)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

PASHAT, I just want to thank you for such an informative post. I've been lurking on this since it started. You deserve some praise for your honesty and dedication to taking pics. Of course thanks also goes out to Broke and Old man Dubdy for their input as well.


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (SlowCorrado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SlowCorrado* »_PASHAT, I just want to thank you for such an informative post. I've been lurking on this since it started. You deserve some praise for your honesty and dedication to taking pics. Of course thanks also goes out to Broke and Old man Dubdy for their input as well.

Everyones a winner folks. Thanks be to all who have played so far. Gods and Kings are nothing without mortals too.


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (Odiejlg)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Odiejlg* »_A note on heating bearings...
You can get a bearing heater on eBay for about $30 plus shipping. 
We use this type where I work; they have proven to be effective- to gage the temprature, you use a crayon that melts at a specific temprature level.


I plan on buying the next electric frypan that I see at a yard sale...one of those ones that plugs into the wall and has a temperature sensor for dialing in the right temp at the end of the plug. Fill that baby with oil and the temp can be monitored. Should work well. If I had any more bearing to put on the shafts, I would likely dig out my "little fryer"....a small barrell shaped cooking container that you can heat cooking oil up in and dip shrimp and things into. That would work too, and I could put a bunch of tranny oil in it, but the temp would not be as controlled as the electric frypan. I bet the shrimp would taste different cooked in tranny oil. I wonder if the oil would "cook" if I left it on? Otherwise it would take a long time to heat up.


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

I did some further research on that bearing race. I now believe that the number is JLM12712B. I called my supplier, who called Timkin and found that that race is not available anywhere in North America. Closest location is Brazil. I guess VW buys up all the stock.
I called VW and ordered the race and the paperweight.
Found this listing of Timkin Bearings:
http://bianchicuscinetti.it/do...T.xls

Note that the above bearing cup is not listed for the LM12749, but my supplier knew about it being one of the right ones for that bearing.

Some parts should arrive in the next two days. 
I am thinking of buying a unicycle.


_Modified by PASHAT at 3:09 PM 11-13-2006_


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

Here’s tonight’s pictures. My parts arrived and my tranny is going back together!









Picture 154 - After stripping down the shaft to the syncro, as shown in the previous photos. I removed the snap ring, and then pressed both the bearing carrier the synchro hub and first gear off the shaft. This left me with the thrust washer that and the bearing that goes in the four bolt carrier on the output shaft. Note the direction of the thrust washer.








Picture 155 – The thrust washer below first gear looks like this coming off. It definitely has a top and a bottom.








Picture 156 – Pressing the bottom bearing that goes in the four bolt carrier off of the shaft.








Picture 157 – The naked and well washed output shaft.








Picture 158 – Pressing the new bearing onto the output shaft. I heated it a little first. Note that I am using the old inner bearing race to push the new bearing onto the shaft.








Picture 159 – Honest, I did heat it.








Picture 160 – Wasn’t there some discussion lately about if VW was concerned about tolerances, they would have used cast not pressed bearing carriers. They must have been listening to that conversation….no more pressed part here.








Picture 161 – Nice, new and CLEAN.








Picture 162 – Thrust washer goes on next….the right way up.








Picture 163 – New first gear needle bearing. Bearing in on the table.








Picture 164 – New bearings going on. I oiled these well after I put them in place.








Picture 165 – First gear is next








Picture 166 – First gear synchro ring goes on in this orientation…teeth down








Picture 167 – First to second gear synchro hub. Make sure all of the little dogs are in place and the hub ring is on the right side up/down. Be sure to align the dogs in this hub with the spots in the synch ring that are wider to accept the dogs.








Picture 168 – The synchro hub needs to be pressed on. I had my bearing separator a little too tight and it got caught on one of the shoulders in the output shaft and I could not press it any further. Took me a few minutes to figure out what was happening. Be sure to allow for the shoulders.

__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content









Picture 169 – Don’t forget to put the 1.00 each rubber o rings on the bearing carrier bolts. The o rings do not come with the carrier. A buck each for O rings from VW. Did I mention that I bought a unicycle?

The rest of the assembly went on as before, so I won’t repeat it. 









Picture 170 – I set my torque wrench for 216 in pounds….18 foot pounds. I then tightened the bolts carefully to just that torque. Then I gave each a quarter turn more.








Picture 171 – If I turn it carefully, I am at 18 in pounds. I think Broke said 12 – 18 was the right spec, so I am just on the outside edge, as one would expect of new bearings. 
The output shaft is done. I had to take it out though to install the differential.
I then installed the bearing for the input shaft








Picture 172 – Here is the bearing for the input shaft, ready to install








Picture 173 – Yes, it has a shoulder!








Picture 174 – Differential is now ready to replace for the final time.








Picture 175 – Output shaft is then installed, and bolts are carefully re-torqued








Picture 176 – Two down, one to go. 
Things are starting to come together!



_Modified by PASHAT at 9:19 PM 11-15-2006_


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

I will be taking the new bearing off of the input shaft, and putting the NEW new bearing back on. Since the bearing and the race came as a set, i want to make sure that I use both of them together as a set.
I put the input shaft in and it spins pretty freely. I can move the shaft up and down a fairly significant amount....maybe not quite a mm, but definitely noticeable. Is this normal? 
I am also going to need torque settings for all bolts that I have left to install in this transmission, both on the inside, the outside (such as the shifter fork retaining bolts) and the ones for the fifth gear. If I can get the information, I am hopeful that I can at least have this transmission back together, if not fully installed, tomorrow. I will continue to post pictures of what I do. But I still need more information! Thanks.


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## Old-man-Dubsy (Jul 25, 2006)

*Re: (PASHAT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_
I put the input shaft in and it spins pretty freely. I can move the shaft up and down a fairly significant amount....maybe not quite a mm, but definitely noticeable. Is this normal? 

Have you shimmed it?
Shifter fork retaining bolts 18 lbf. 
Ones for the fifth gear 29 lbf. 
What others?


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (Old-man-Dubsy)*

Thanks....I did reinstall the shim, which goes in the top of the case for the input shaft. I did that a few days ago. 
I think I still need the torques for the reverse gear retaining bolts both inside the tranny and the two that are outside the shells and the torques for the end shaft bolts for both the input and the output shaft.
I take it that those torque settings are for the four bolts that hold the shifter retaining pins in, and also the bolts that hold the 5th gear fork in place?
Oh, and I wanted to know if those four fasteners for the output shaft bearing carrier that you see in picture 160....are they BOLTS or STUDS? Anyone have an opinion on that?


_Modified by PASHAT at 10:41 PM 11-15-2006_


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (PASHAT)*

I have the torque setting for the Reverse gear shift fork of 18 ft pounds...found that in the material that HGB sent me. I also found the torque for the hex bolts for the 5th gear cover, which are 7 foot pounds and the torques for the end bolts for the input and output shafts of 59 foot pounds....thanks again for that!
Am I missing any?


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (PASHAT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Broke in thread 2892666* »_When it is all installed again with the proper shim (or the shims you removed form the case in the order you found them), the play is checked again, and you want a minimum play of 0.01mm (0.0004") and a maximum of 0.09mm (0.0035").
If the bearing play cannot be measured, but there is perceptible input shaft play and the input shaft turns freely, the adjustment is acceptable.
-Turning torque should be a max of 1.8 inch-pounds


There is perceptible play, and I used the old shim. (see picture 129, above). The shim is already a 1.10mm...so the shims available are not a LOT bigger. The turning torque is virtually nothing. Should be okay? What I am seeing as quite a bit of play might be due to the fact that although I am using a new bearing race, I have not installed the bearing that goes with that outer race...I am using a new one that is the same as the old one I took out...but I think that this new bearing has a different number than the old one, as does the new race.




_Modified by PASHAT at 9:30 AM 11-16-2006_


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## Old-man-Dubsy (Jul 25, 2006)

*Re: (PASHAT)*

You mixing bearings?


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (Old-man-Dubsy)*

No No No.
Remember that I bought a bearing that was IDENTICAL to the one I took off, but could not get the identical race (although I thought I had). I replaced the original bearing on the input shaft with that new one last week, and that is the one that is on the input shaft right now.
However, as I posted, I had to get a new race and could only order it as a set. (bearing cone AND cup) So I did.
Last night, the SET arrived, but I noticed that the bearing RACE did not appear to be the same number as the one that I took off. It definitely fits. So, I have the new bearing that is part of that SET, that I got from VW and has the RIGHT VW part number. I installed that bearing cup but not the bearing cone, YET. The bearing that I have on (the new one, but not part of the set) fits the race but it is not the same one, in terms of number, as the new one that is in the set. 
I WILL replace the new bearing that is now on the shaft with the one from the set, but I haven't actually done that yet. BUT I will do so. I am not sure that it will make a difference in the play, but it is the one that came with the race (bearing cup) that I have installed, so it definitely is the best one I use. I am just not sure that it will actually make a difference in the play, as the bearing on there right now is the same as the one that was originally there.
No mixing of bearings. Installing only original bearing SETS from VW now.


----------



## HGB (Aug 23, 2002)

*Re: (PASHAT)*

Hey man, did you put a bolt kit in that diff? If you didn't, now is that time. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (PASHAT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_
Am I missing any?

Here are the torque settings that I still need:
The two bolts with the torx heads that hold the reverse gear top bearing carrier in place.
The four bolts that hold the shifter forks in place.
The two bolts for the top shifter mechanism (the part that you attach the shifter cables to, where it bolts to the tranny).
The two bolts for the bottom cover plate for the shifter mechanism.
I have the case assembled, but need these torques to complete things. Pictures of the process will follow.


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (HGB)*


_Quote, originally posted by *HGB* »_Hey man, did you put a bolt kit in that diff? If you didn't, now is that time. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

No bolt kit for me. My dealer gave me a cost of $200.00 for this stud/bolt kit. This does have the bigger "rivets" that are in a 02A, not the wimpy 020 rivets, and it is a family car, not a race car. I did check them and they all seem fine. Thanks for thinking of this for me though.


----------



## Ryan @ Autotech (May 12, 2005)

*Re: (PASHAT)*

IM sent with tightening torques....guess I'll list it here in case anyone else needs it. 
four bolts for shifter fork pivots: 25Nm/18 ft lbs
two bolts for top shifter mechanism (that is covered by the black plastic reverse light indicator): 25Nm/18 ft lbs
Bottom 'VW' cover plate for shifter mech: 25Nm/18 ft lbs
two bolts for torx heads for reverse gear support: Both 30 Nm/22 ft lbs
this was all found on the Bentley CD manual for A3 chassis, including the o2A tranny, so I'm not pulling these numbers out of my...you know.


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (Ryan @ Autotech)*

Thanks Ryan, for that info:
“This is not the end. This is not even the beginning of the end. But, it might just be the end of the beginning”








Picture 177 - Here is the new bearing race for the input shaft…the one I got as a set from VW. It has a different number than the one I took out. The new number is JXC06536DC








Picture 178 - The new bearing also has a different number. The number on this is XC06536CD. What’s up with that? The old bearing that I took off was quite common. Why the new number?









Picture 179 – I took off the perfectly good new bearing, and replaced it with the bearing that came in the set from VW. I heated the bearing, before pressing it on and I oiled it well.









Picture 180 – This is the reverse gear that rides on the bearing in the case, next to the input shaft








Picture 181 – The side that doesn’t ride on the bearing has a shoulder








Picture 182 – The bottom reverse gear goes here, like this.








Picture 183 – This is the reverse shaft and gear. All these parts were washed prior to installation. No one likes a “filthy” tranny!








Picture 184 – Reverse shaft goes in next.








Picture 185 – Starting to look like a transmission.








Picture 186 – It was here that I found a bearing that I did not realize was there and that I had not ordered. So, every bearing in the transmission except ONE were replaced. Sometimes, you just have to say… “What the Heck!?”








Picture 187 – Here is the spring for the reverse gear shifter mechanism. Note the little rivet (or is that a stud?) on the bottom, that meshes with the hole in the tranny case. Good to align this rivet with that hole.








Picture 188 – I couldn’t really remember where this spring went, but this hole looks about right. Note the rounded groove to take the rounded piece at the end of the spring.








Picture 189 – Torque it down. 18 foot pounds Note that when I take something apart, I usually put the bolts back in where they came from, so I don’t forget. The bolts in the top of the reverse gear shaft carrier will be removed later and then re-installed through the transmission.








Picture 190 – Ahh. The shifter forks. This is where they sit. No bolts on the inside…Have to put in bolts from the outside. Use care here or shifting might be a problem.








Picture 191 – Be especially sure that the fork ends are actually riding in the grooves of the synchro hubs. Check all four carefully.








Picture 192 – Also check to make sure that the shifter forks are aligning and connecting properly with reverse gear shifter assembly.








Picture 193 – The case is going to go together for the final time. Really. It is. After a month of working long nights in the cold, it is time to seal the case halves. I put sealant on this side of the case after cleaning it carefully. I cleaned the other side as well. 








Picture 194 – Once the case was together, I installed the bolts for the reverse gear bearing carrier. This is why I put things back. Look. One is longer than the other. Which goes in the fifth gear side of the case, down that long hole, and which goes up through the bottom of the case?








Picture 195 – If you answered “The SHORT one goes down the hole in the fifth gear side of the case” then I am correct, because that’s the hole I put the short bolt down, based on where I put the short bolt when I took things apart. The long bolt goes in from the bottom. You use the hole for the shifter assembly to move the reverse gear bearing carrier into the right position so that the bolt holes are aligned. 22 Foot pounds for these. (thanks to [email protected], forum sponser for this info!)








Picture 196 - You have to pull on the shifter fork assembly to get the shafts that hold the shifter forks to align properly. You can see that I have installed one shaft, but have not put the bolt for it in yet. 








Picture 197 – Here is what those shafts look like. This is the last of four, being installed. 18 foot pounds for these bolts.








Picture 198 – Notice that there is a protrusion on the cup in the shifter assembly, at the 3:00 position in the hole. This need to align with the corresponding recess in the case for the shifter to be able to be put back.








Picture 199 – When installing the shifter assembly, you can watch it from the other side, (the hole in the bottom of the transmission) to make sure the shifter part of the shaft makes it through the fork assembly properly.








Picture Two Hundred – The shifter is installed. Bolt torque is 18 foot pounds.








Picture 201 – The gasket material is about ready for the bolts to be torqued to 18 foot pounds. With the shifter in and reverse gear bolted in place, looks like I will not need to take the halves apart. Torque em down!








Picture 202 – I realized that the shifter assembly was in the way of one of the bolts for the slave cylinder for the clutch, so I removed it, and torqued the slave cylinder to the proper torque setting, which was 18 foot pounds.








Picture 203 – The bottom cover of the shifter assembly shaft can be installed now. Again, 18 foot pounds for these.

I then went through the gears, shifting and making sure everything seemed to be working as it should be with nothing stuck. All gears seemed to work fine.

Time to turn to the fifth gear side of things:








Picture 204 – First, I oiled the bearing at the top of the output shaft.








Picture 205 – Installing 5th gear with the aid of my friend (because it is so kind to gears), the rubber mallet. Note that it is the SMOOTH side of fifth gear that goes up, not the side with the groove in it. (Thanks Broke!....again!)








Picture 206 – The washer for the top of fifth gear. Bevel Side up.








Picture 207 – The bolt goes in next. Thread side down. 59 ft lbs.








Picture 208 – I missed a picture of the fact that I oiled the heck out of the 5th gear shifter bearing, that is installed on the shaft. I then put this gear in place and oiled it some more. This is the bearing that fries if your tranny gets low on oil, because the ports to get oil to this gear are pretty high up. 








Picture 209 – The synchro ring goes in next. Note the position of the square bits that have to align with the next gear.








Picture 210 – Here is the hub for the fifth gear. Note how the space in the hub aligns with those square parts on the synchro ring below.








Picture 211 –“ Mr. Hub….Say hello to Mr. Mallet. “








Picture 212 – This took me a few minutes to figure out. I could not get the shifter hub to drop down on the bottom gear. I then inspected the hub until I found that one of the splines had a line down it. “That’s interesting.” I thought to myself. When I slid that spline over the space in the hub, it locked right down.








Picture 213 – Locked down, it looks like this.








Picture 214 – Big washer is next, bevel up, as shown.








Picture 215 – Then the bolt, which gets torqued to 59 foot pounds.








Picture 216 – The 5th shifter goes next. I think I still need torque settings for these 5th gear shifter supports bolts









Picture 217 – Now, this is where I get to a problem. I notice that this little piece, which connects the fifth shifter forks to the main shifter forks can slide up and down on the bolt. Obviously it is adjustable. Where it is tightened sets how far the shifter forks move. Can someone tell me HOW to adjust it properly. The old man says 29 foot pounds for this bolt, me thinks. I got stuck on this, and had to quit for the night.
Let me know where you see I need help. Particularly need that fifth shifter info.



_Modified by PASHAT at 2:39 AM 11-17-2006_


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## Broke (Aug 13, 2001)

*Re: (PASHAT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_
This is the reverse shaft and gear. All these parts were washed prior to installation. No one likes a “filthy” tranny!


http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
It isn't the whining _people _you have to worry about with filthy trans bits....it is the whining _bearings _









_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_Picture 216 – The 5th shifter goes next. I think I still need torque settings for these 5th gear shifter supports bolts

Thanks to Google for the conversion from Nm to ft-lb.... 25 newton meters = 18.4390537 foot pounds








(for those who aren't aware, Google has a killer calculator. Just do a google search for something like *100C to F* and the results page will have the conversion in bold at the top. Sometimes you can abbreviate, like C and F, other times you have to spell it out; here is the search results page for the Nm to ft-lb conversion... http://www.google.com/search?h...ounds )
Anyway.... 18 ft-lbs for those 2 bolts









_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_Can someone tell me HOW to adjust it properly. The old man says 29 foot pounds for this bolt, me thinks.

Never having done it, all I can offer is what I have on paper....
*Adjusting 5th gear*
-Engage 5th gear
-Loosen bolt
-Press operating sleeve and shift fork jaws in direction of arrow (press them down towards the bellhousing)
-Tighten the bolt to 18 ft-lbs
-Check measurement
*It must NOT be possible to slide a 0.2mm feeler gauge between locking collar and gear wheel.
-If necessary repeat adjustment
-Disengage 5th gear. Locking collar must now be in the neutral position. Syncro ring must move freely.
-Install case
That's it on the 5th adjustment in the papers I have.
Broke


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (Broke)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Broke* »_ Adjusting 5th gear
-Engage 5th gear
-Loosen bolt
-Press operating sleeve and shift fork jaws in direction of arrow (press them down towards the bellhousing)
-Tighten the bolt to 18 ft-lbs
-Check measurement
*It must NOT be possible to slide a 0.2mm feeler gauge between locking collar and gear wheel.
-If necessary repeat adjustment
-Disengage 5th gear. Locking collar must now be in the neutral position. Syncro ring must move freely.
-Install case
That's it on the 5th adjustment in the papers I have.



Broke - You da KING!

_Quote, originally posted by *Broke* »_
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
It isn't the whining _people _you have to worry about with filthy trans bits 
Broke

Help! Help! I'm being repressed! Come see the violence inherent in the system!

http://www.moviewavs.com/php/s...3.wav
_Modified by PASHAT at 9:02 AM 11-17-2006_


_Modified by PASHAT at 9:03 AM 11-17-2006_


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (PASHAT)*

HELP!!
I have got this transmission almost all the way in. Installing it with the drive flanges is a real problem because the clearances are very close. The flanges are simple to put in after the transmission is in....you just pound them in. 
I have one drive flange installed. However, when I went to install the other one, I noticed that the drive pinion gear that the flange goes into is not aligned with the hole. It is about a finger thickness out of alignment. I thought I might be able to bang it back into place with the drive flange, but I don't want to do this if it won't move. I cannot move it with my finger.
How big of a problem do I have?


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## Broke (Aug 13, 2001)

*Re: (PASHAT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_I have one drive flange installed. However, when I went to install the other one, I noticed that the drive pinion gear that the flange goes into is not aligned with the hole. It is about a finger thickness out of alignment. I thought I might be able to bang it back into place with the drive flange, but I don't want to do this if it won't move. I cannot move it with my finger.
How big of a problem do I have?


Can you get a pic of looking inside the hole? I think I understand what's happened, but I want to see before I open my mouth.
Broke


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (Broke)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Broke* »_Can you get a pic of looking inside the hole? I think I understand what's happened, but I want to see before I open my mouth.
Broke

Getting a picture down that hole might be difficult.... especially since I have just had a bath! 
I did not disassemble the differential at any point, but I noticed that the gears that the drive shafts go into, in the differential could move around quite a bit when I had the transmission out. I thought that they would move around quite a bit when I had it in too. I got one drive shaft in and when I turn it, I can feel the other drive pinion gear turn, by sticking my finger in the hole. If you looked down the round hole, you would see that the drive gear in the pinion assembly was not sitting properly. It would look like a crescent moon. I can push it but it seems to be hitting something.
I tried putting the car in gear and turning the ring gear, and I can see it turning too (through the oil drain hole that is open), but neither drive shaft turns when I do that, that I can see. The one drive flange that I have installed does not for sure. If I put a pipe or large punch in the hole, I might be able to move it into position, but I am afraid of doing damage to something since I am not sure what is wrong.
If you need a picture, I might be able to get one, but not until tomorrow am as my wife has just told me that I have to go now. I will monitor responses
Help!


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## Broke (Aug 13, 2001)

*Re: (PASHAT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_Getting a picture down that hole might be difficult.... especially since I have just had a bath!

Pfft, that trans won't care if your nekkid....hop out there a-danglin' and snap a pic









_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_If you need a picture, I might be able to get one, but not until tomorrow am as my wife has just told me that I have to go now. I will monitor responses

No pic needed....old man and I discussed and investigated the situation. Post when you're done with going out with the wife, and I'll post....
Broke


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (Broke)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Broke* »_
Pfft, that trans won't care if your nekkid....hop out there a-danglin' and snap a pic








Broke

Obviously it is ABOVE freezing where you are. At these temps....nothing here would be "a danglin'"

_Quote, originally posted by *Broke* »_
No pic needed....old man and I discussed and investigated the situation. Post when you're done with going out with the wife, and I'll post....
Broke

You think I would not monitor. It took me an hour to get the support bracket for the rear engine mount back in. Think I'm not anxious as to whether I have to take it off and put it back on AGAIN. Now, quit being teases, you two!! What up?!?!


----------



## Broke (Aug 13, 2001)

*Re: (PASHAT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_I did not disassemble the differential at any point, but I noticed that the gears that the drive shafts go into, in the differential could move around quite a bit when I had the transmission out.

Bad news. 
It has come apart at some point, and you've put the gear back in... in this pic, the gear on the right (closest to the table top) is shown off one tooth. You can see the rounded bottom of the gear exposed in the pic, and the other one is where it should be.









_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_If I put a pipe or large punch in the hole, I might be able to move it into position, but I am afraid of doing damage to something since I am not sure what is wrong.

One gear won't move without the other moving. If the one is in place, and the other isn't the one out of place cannot be moved into spot without affecting the other gear, which is aligned.
Ready?








.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
The trans needs stripped to the diff, and the gear aligned in the diff carrier. Sorry man.








*hate old man, he was the one who spotted the problem in pic 47....also, thanks for the numbered pics, it helped in discussing the problem.
Broke


_Modified by Broke at 6:59 PM 11-18-2006_


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (Broke)*

Thanks.
This means out comes the transmission and I have completely open it up and take everything off including the reverse, input and output shaft. Guess I couldn't have made a bigger mistake! And how does this get aligned/out of alignment? I never removed those gear!
But at least the bearings will be great!!!


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## Old-man-Dubsy (Jul 25, 2006)

*Re: (PASHAT)*

One of the diff gears must have come out enough to jump 1 tooth. Realine by spining the assembly round 90 degrees then leveling the gear.
Yes it's a complete disassemble to the diff but it shouldn't take long as its just main chunks, no stripping shafts or bearings.
Don't forget the 3 c's http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 




_Modified by Old-man-Dubsy at 4:30 PM 11-18-2006_


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## Broke (Aug 13, 2001)

*Re: (Old-man-Dubsy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Old-man-Dubsy* »_Don't forget the 3 c's http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Care³.
Clean³.
Check³.
Care, care, care.
Clean, clean, clean.
Check, check, check.
Broke


----------



## HGB (Aug 23, 2002)

*Re: (PASHAT)*

Well just so you know, rivets come apart at even 55 mph when the time comes, but atleast you would already know how to take the trans apart. So far you are doing good. 
Peloquin bolt kits are about $50. ARP is about $70, forget the dealer.


_Modified by HGB at 7:48 PM 11-18-2006_


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## SlowCorrado (Dec 11, 2001)

*Re: (PASHAT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_Guess I couldn't have made a bigger mistake! And how does this get aligned/out of alignment? I never removed those gear!
But at least the bearings will be great!!!

Wow PASHAT, I know you're probably discouraged at this point, but your steadfast attitude to WIN over this trans is amazing. Lesser men would have put the tranny in the press and smashed it into small quarter sized pieces.








Thanks for the great write-up so far!


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (SlowCorrado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SlowCorrado* »_Lesser men would have put the tranny in the press and smashed it into small quarter sized pieces.











I am afraid of hurting the press......
I don't understand differentials. You turn them one way that the other turns the other? They slip and that is normally a good thing?
Since I didn't take it apart, why can't I re-align it from the outside? Is it only because it is difficult to get at that I have to take it apart, or is something inside holding that gear in the wrong place?
I will probably understand this better when I take it apart. DARN. Does this mean I have to undo those four stretch bolts AGAIN?








"God" is testing me....


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (Broke)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Broke* »_
Check, check, check.
Broke

I don't know enough to check.....wasn't that YOU GUYS job!!


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## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (HGB)*


_Quote, originally posted by *HGB* »_Well just so you know, rivets come apart at even 55 mph when the time comes, but atleast you would already know how to take the trans apart. So far you are doing good. 


Well....some might disagree with that last line. (I certainly would at this point.) I do know how to take it apart now....perhaps by the time I am done I might also know how to get it back together!
I am going to start a new thread on that 02A bolt issue. I appreciate all your input.


----------



## Odiejlg (May 18, 2002)

*Re: (PASHAT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_
I don't understand differentials. You turn them one way that the other turns the other? They slip and that is normally a good thing?


A differential allows you to make turns in your car without killing the transmission. When you are driving in a straight line, the diff is really doing nothing except spin around in circles with the ring gear. The diff is used to save your axles/gearbox when turning. Lets say on a left turn, the radius of your drivers side tire will be less then the radius created by the passengers side. This in turn means that the drivers side tire needs to make less revolutions in the same turning distance. The differential takes the rotations of the final drive and splits it up between both wheels. Instead of 1:1 going to each wheel when going in a straight line, the diff allows the one tire to turn, say, 1:1.1 and the other to turn 1:0.9 to negotiate a turn. This is why when the car is jacked up, if you spin the one tire the other will rotate the opposite way. 
Feel free to correct any of my logic if it is not right http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (PASHAT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_
“This is not the end. This is not even the beginning of the end. But, it might just be the end of the beginning”


Look folks - Truth in advertising!

_Quote, originally posted by *Broke* »_
...in this pic, the gear on the right (closest to the table top) is shown off one tooth.


When Broke refers to the gear on the right, it is now the gear on the bottom....I rotated the picture right side up since it was hard to look at and has become an important picture. In looking at that picture, I can see that there is no way to fix the problem without removing the diff. At some point the gear that is out of place must have rotated up all the way to the hole and I must have adjusted it when it I put it back in place. I don't remember doing anything like that, but there is no other possibility. Thanks again for pointing this out. 
I will spend the next seveal hours working on correcting this problem, and will report back later. 
Any bets on how long it will take me to get back to where I am now (= two of the rear motor mount bolts in and that stupid hard to get at rear transmission motor mount three bolts fully installed, and the clutch line reattached and bled....three tranny bolts in too.)
Look on the bright side....everything will still be clean!


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

Tranny is now out and on the bench again.


----------



## Old-man-Dubsy (Jul 25, 2006)

*Re: (PASHAT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_ 
Any bets on how long it will take me to get back to where I am now (= two of the rear motor mount bolts in and that stupid hard to get at rear transmission motor mount three bolts fully installed, and the clutch line reattached and bled....three tranny bolts in too.)
Look on the bright side....everything will still be clean!

4hrs 23 mins.


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (PASHAT)*

First things first. Finish what you started. Here are the pictures of the final stages of getting the tranny together, prior to realizing that I had to take it apart again.









Picture 218 – Tightening up the 5th gear using VW special tool RAG again. The 5th Gear shifter can be locked to be tightened by sliding the hub down. Both are 59 foot pounds.








Picture 219 – It took me a while to remember why I took a picture of the shifter mechanism. I think it was to remind me to write of the importance of going through all of the gears, make sure that you can shift into each gear, and turn the input shaft to make sure that the drive flanges spin. That means testing each of the five gears, plus reverse. Reverse should go BACKWARDS.








Picture 220 – Put the shifter hub for 5th on and press it firmly into place. Tighten the bolt that holds the shifter mechanism to the little C shaped piece. 29 foot pounds or 18?








Picture 221 – Broke says that the clearance between the hub and the gear should not exceed .002. (Broke is King!)








Picture 222 – Install the gasket. Then put the cover on and tighten those five bolts. Looks just like a transmission.








Picture 223 – Install the speedometer gear…made entirely of PLASTIC!








Picture 224 – Install the flange gaskets. These, by the way, were what leaked originally and caused me to lose all the oil that ended up frying the bearing…….








Picture 225 – I pounded them in until they were flush and then greased them up so that the flanges go on smoothly and don’t wreck them.








Picture 226 – The throwout bearing input shaft seal thingy goes on next. REALLY grease this up as it has to go over the input shaft splines without wrecking the seal.









Picture 227 – The clip of the throwout bearing carrier.








Picture 228 – Throwout bearing installed. Note that there is a hole to put a bolt in in the tranny case that holds this all in place when you install. I am not sure how important it is to lock the bearing back during installation.








Picture 229 – These are the clips that go around the drive flanges on my 02A….quite a bit different than the 020








Picture 230 - Use the new clip to push out the old clip, like this.

And, if you been following the bouncy ball, you will know that it is about here that I realized I had a major problem with the drive flanges not being able to both be inserted….more to follow.


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (Old-man-Dubsy)*

Here’s the rest of the story….It took me about 45 minutes to get the transmission out and back on my bench









Picture 231 – Time is 11:47:10. Tranny is on the bench








Picture 232 – Stripped to the shafts – Time is 12:17:04








Picture 233 – Here is the culprit, it all its nekkid glory. This picture is pretty fuzzy, but I ain’t taking the diff out to get you a better one. Here the top gear is showing as being off. I rotated those gears to the sides, took one out the hole, moved the other one, put the first one back and rotated everything back, checking to see that I was now aligned the same amount at both sides.








Picture 234 – Had the diff fixed at 12:23:10








Picture 235 - Tranny back together at 1:43:47. Everything properly checked for torque and alignment…Shifter through all the gears and made sure things were turning as they should be. Had to stop for a prayer when I got to those four output shaft bolts, but torques them down without any breaking. 








Picture 236 – This is a picture of the bolt that is a PITA to get in. Best way I have found is to drop everything down and install that bolt, as shown here, then raise the bracket and install the other two bolts.








Picture 237 – Pretty much back to where I was at 2:27:07
Total time – about 3:25. 








Picture 238 – Yes, that’s the tranny back in the car with the motor mounts basically in place!

Did a few more things after that, and now have to get the starter bolts aligned with the motor mount (another brilliant VW innovation), put the cables on and attach the drive flanges to the axles, and I should be able to take it for a test drive! Hopefully, I have completed my first 02A rebuild.

Broke – Your turn!


----------



## Old-man-Dubsy (Jul 25, 2006)

*Re: (PASHAT)*

Don't forget the oil.
I was right then, I gave you a hr for Sunday lunch







, well done tho http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif .


----------



## Broke (Aug 13, 2001)

*Re: (PASHAT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_Broke – Your turn!










Feels like I just did








Great pics, good they're numbered, good thread. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Good job on your rebuild








Broke


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (Broke)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Broke* »_








Feels like I just did









Broke

Don't worry....Your next one will be easier.....
Thanks to you and all who helped. I could not have done this without your superb input especially flying without a manual.


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (Old-man-Dubsy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Old-man-Dubsy* »_
I was right then, I gave you a hr for Sunday lunch









I thought you were just a God of little faith! 

_Quote, originally posted by *Old-man-Dubsy* »_
Don't forget the oil 

Oil? We don't need no stinkin' oil! Did you SEE how clean those gears are in picture 232? Now you want me to make it all dirty?
Thanks for your expertise and humour...you saved my butt more than once. Once I get the test drive done, I wiil report back. However, this misadventure started with an engine problem, although I did a complete rebuild of the engine prior to the tranny work you see. 
After rebuilding the engine, I drove it for one half a day prior to the tranny exploding. I don't think it is running smoothly yet, so I might see you over at the 16v engine forum soon.


----------



## Old-man-Dubsy (Jul 25, 2006)

*Re: (PASHAT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_Oil? We don't need no stinkin' oil! Did you SEE how clean those gears are in picture 232? Now you want me to make it all dirty?

Use clean oil







.

_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_
After rebuilding the engine, I drove it for one half a day prior to the tranny exploding. I don't think it is running smoothly yet, so *I might see you over at the 16v engine forum soon.*

Never go in there








.


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (Old-man-Dubsy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Old-man-Dubsy* »_
Never go in there







.

That's what I was told about here.....


----------



## ubercruizinvr6 (Jul 6, 2002)

*Re: (PASHAT)*

So...??? Hows it work...?


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (ubercruizinvr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ubercruizinvr6* »_So...??? Hows it work...?









I wish I knew. I went to start it and it will not turn over.... I think the starter that I just replaced is toast. Battery is charged, I can turn it over the engine by hand, but the starter shuts out all the lights....I think it is shorting internally. ARRRGGG!!!

Does anyone really LIKE VWs?


----------



## Old-man-Dubsy (Jul 25, 2006)

*Re: (PASHAT)*

That's sounds like a bad connection or bad battery, check the battery terminals and the ground wire on the trans.


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (Old-man-Dubsy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Old-man-Dubsy* »_That's sounds like a bad connection or bad battery, check the battery terminals and the ground wire on the trans.

Ground cable at the battery = Accurate diagnosis from 7000 miles away....

But God IS everywhere.
My Pashat now has 2.2 more miles on it.....and it shifts like Buttahh!


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (PASHAT)*

Well as a post script, everything seems to be fine with the transmission. It works really well. I have to thank all who participated and helped out with their advice and humour. In spite of all the problems, it was fun.
By the way, here is a flowchart that can be used to deal with problems as they arise. WARNING: If you don't like bad words, you might find this offensive. Don't look!
http://i145.photobucket.com/al...3.jpg
And for the love of Pete, don't print it off and put it up on your shop wall!!
P


_Modified by PASHAT at 7:22 PM 11-28-2006_


----------



## stoned_elvis (Feb 15, 2003)

*Re: (PASHAT)*

thats flow chart is funny


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (stoned_elvis)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stoned_elvis* »_thats flow chart is funny























My son was given that by his teacher! 
Who says we don't have more liberal values in Canada!
And I did warn that some might find it offensive. That is why there is a link, not the actual picture of the flowchart in the post.


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

I wonder if this post will hit 2000 views?


----------



## climbingcue (Feb 2, 2001)

*Re: (PASHAT)*

Very awsome thread, I am planning on a O2A rebuild and your thread will help me out alot...
Glad to read your tranny is shifting great!!!


----------



## ubercruizinvr6 (Jul 6, 2002)

*Re: (climbingcue)*

Yes, I agree, this thread has been quite a bit of help with my 02A teardown/final drive/quaife install I've been performing for the past few days after work.







(Getting there!)
This thread was a major source of confidence to decide to tackle the job myself. Two http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif !!


----------



## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

*Re: (ubercruizinvr6)*

Thought this was relevent to the thread when I saw it:
Step by step procedures from VWMS site: (PDF)
02A Teardown & Rebuild
 02J Teardown & Rebuild


_Modified by secondgen at 6:41 AM 12-22-2006_


----------



## stoned_elvis (Feb 15, 2003)

*Re: (secondgen)*

that the one i have but i got mine off some russian vw site.


----------



## Broke (Aug 13, 2001)

*Re: (stoned_elvis)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stoned_elvis* »_that the one i have but i got mine off some russian vw site.

Those are the russian ones, the msk.ru URL is at the top of both .pdf documents. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Those docs remind me of a Readers Digest condensed book version of the Bentley








Broke


----------



## stoned_elvis (Feb 15, 2003)

*Re: (Broke)*

good to know. so the bentlys go more indepth? Im still far away from assabling.


----------



## Broke (Aug 13, 2001)

*Re: (stoned_elvis)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stoned_elvis* »_good to know. so the bentlys go more indepth? Im still far away from assabling. 

Yeah, the Bentley has a lot more detailed info. The .pdf files cover all the jobs, but the Bentley does it in detail with more pics. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Broke


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

Should reach 2500 views soon!


----------



## brilliantyellowg60 (Aug 30, 2001)

*Re: (PASHAT)*

nice work, looks like my nightmare......i mean fun this summer


----------



## ubercruizinvr6 (Jul 6, 2002)

*Re: (brilliantyellowg60)*

The fun I'm having right now is getting the smaller (clutch housing side) input shaft bearing inner race off of the shaft itself. tried heating it up and using drift-type items to drive it off but no dice! so until i can find a bearing separator small enough to remove that bearing im stuck.








anyone know of an easier/quicker method?


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (ubercruizinvr6)*

If you are referring to the bearing in picture 135, I think that I just put a bearing separator under it, and pressed it off with my home made press. As was documented, I was not the best at using heat properly. Why did the bearing separator/hydraulic press not work? What happened? You could also try a little lubricant on the shaft.
Sorry for not replying to any IMs sent. I have been away for a while dealing with other issues.


----------



## ubercruizinvr6 (Jul 6, 2002)

*Re: (PASHAT)*

Well Pashat, before I even got the IM or saw your reply to the post, heat and a hydraulic press with the bearing separator worked like a gem. Should have done it in the first place!








I was initially using the press without heat the other day to press the bearing off, but one of the arbor plates was already cracked and I was worried about the plate actually breaking. Not to mention the bearing separator being used was pretty beat-up, and didn't have the best hold on the race to start with. 
Thanks for the reply though!


----------



## austin neuschafer (Apr 26, 2002)

back to the top good write up


----------



## HGB (Aug 23, 2002)

*Re: (PASHAT)*

So how is the ride so far, any issues with the trans or good to go?


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (austin neuschafer)*

Hey:
How is everyone. Gee it has been a while since I had time to drop by. The car has been sitting in a garage since I fixed it, as I got another while I was working on it. I will likely sell it in Spring but it seems to be running really well.
That is the bearing puller that I used, although I had to grind the arms to a sharper point in order to get under the bearing. I used it only to remove the bearing race in picture 98. The other races, as I recall, I could punch out from one side or the other, but that one in the well is impossible to remove without some sort of inside puller like this one.
Hope everyone is well! Keep them VW's going!


----------



## [email protected] (Jun 21, 2006)

*Re: (austin neuschafer)*

Do i absolutely need to have a press to get the gears back on my pinion shaft?
If not what can or has been used?


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*

You can likely build a suitable press using a hydraulic jack, but I certainly would not try to do a job like this without some sort of press.
Hope everyone is well. Long time no post?


----------



## brilliantyellowg60 (Aug 30, 2001)

*Re: (PASHAT)*

going through this process this week


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (brilliantyellowg60)*

Good Luck!!!


----------



## Halpem (May 15, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Do i absolutely need to have a press to get the gears back on my pinion shaft?
If not what can or has been used?


Eric, 
Harbor Freight has cheap presses for sale , or go down JMC motorports on Ruffer st. Ask for Shawn Meze, He can press them for you. 

Hal


----------



## austin neuschafer (Apr 26, 2002)

*Re: (Halpem)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Halpem* »_
Eric, 
Harbor Freight has cheap presses for sale , or go down JMC motorports on Ruffer st. Ask for Shawn Meze, He can press them for you. 

Hal 
that is where my press cam from, harbour freight, I have the 12 ton one, does everything I need it to do. I had to modify the base to press gears off of the main and pinion shafts, but otherwise allright. but I had a harbour freight bearing separator, not worht a damn though


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

I now have over 100km on the tranny and it is smooth as butter. Unfortunately all of that 100 km is my test driving the engine which hesitates then surges mostly when cold. Once it warms up it seems to run fairly well.


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (PASHAT)*

Hi:
Thought I'd drop by and see how this thread is making out. Has it reached the FAQ yet? Let me know if you found it useful. I am mostly hanging out at the 16v forum with my put a 16v in a Scirocco race car build, but do add to this post to let me know if you find it useful....


----------



## austin neuschafer (Apr 26, 2002)

been a while since i read thru it, but good to read thru a write that has been made step by step, by a individual who did it by there own self, I haven't been able to read thru it as I have this wonderful thing called ALLTEL internet DISservice, that stops whenever you use aany serious bandwidth and then you have to disconnect and wait a couple of minutes before it works again


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (austin neuschafer)*

I have often wondered about your sig!
Austin I have read your posts all over the tex, and have a lot of respect for all that you know. I am very pleased that you found my write up interesting.


----------



## francocorrado (Nov 23, 2004)

Brilliant thread mate! You managed to stay so cool and calm despite the setbacks. Broke and Old Man Dubby you guys are stand up, good job lads.
I will be tackling this myself this summer for the first time.
Thanks PASHAT -- bookmarked!


----------



## Big CADDY (Aug 28, 2001)

*Re: (francocorrado)*

dang, nice wright up. 
I wish the older trannys had these bolts. Looks like it makes things much easier


----------



## spasticone (May 31, 2004)

This should be stickied!


----------



## repete offender (Aug 22, 2007)

Great read! Thanks so much for the detailed pics and step by step (progress and mistakes!!). Very informative, I learned a lot. 
I am hesitant to tackle this but the read helped me pull mine apart and diagnose what failed. Some day I hope to have the level of confidence to tackle this my self.

Again, great thread Pashat. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: (repete offender)*

Thanks....this fool just went boldly where angels feared to tread...
I'm a 020 guy now...


----------



## Broke (Aug 13, 2001)

*Re: (PASHAT)*

I'm glad the pics still work, this thread gets used a lot by people http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## [email protected] (Dec 15, 2006)

*Re: (Broke)*

And as of today, yet another...
This thread should be stickied!


----------



## PASHAT (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Just dropping by and saying hello


----------



## TheRealEddie (May 8, 2006)

*Re: (PASHAT)*

Awesome thread!!!!!!!!!!
Owning a mk2 GTI that I race, I am considering getting a mk2 GLI or G60 for fun on the street. Thanks to Broke I can now work on 020s but I was concerned if I get a G60 that I won't have a resource for the 02A. But from this thread I see that such a miracle exists already...and Broke shows up in it to boot!


----------



## uamadman (Aug 5, 2007)

*Re: (TheRealEddie)*

The Single Most Valuable Thread in the Manual Transmission Forum http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
X2 needs a Sticky


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: (uamadman)*

again, nice thread. finally an 02a thread. broke really has the 020s covered.
i wish he took interest in the 02a trans....


----------



## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: (PASHAT)*

I was once again looking over the post and noticed the step below. In this step per Bentley Manual it is advised to use two 1.20 mm filler gauges to adjust the gap properly. Additional info is that the 5th gear shift fork has different thickness shift segments. Do not get these mixed up during disassembly and assembly. Image is found on page 35.23 of the corrado Bentley. Others may varied. 

_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_








Picture 220 – Put the shifter hub for 5th on and press it firmly into place. Tighten the bolt that holds the shifter mechanism to the little C shaped piece. 29 foot pounds or 18?








Picture 221 – Broke says that the clearance between the hub and the gear should not exceed .002. (Broke is King!)


----------



## Broke (Aug 13, 2001)

*Re: (vwscream)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwscream* »_I was once again looking over the post and noticed the step below. In this step per Bentley Manual it is advised to use two 1.20 mm filler gauges to adjust the gap properly. Additional info is that the 5th gear shift fork has different thickness shift segments. Do not get these mixed up during disassembly and assembly. Image is found on page 35.23 of the corrado Bentley. Others may varied. 


I don't see that info in the papers I have, but it covers the 02A in the Passat, is there any chance you can snap a pic of that section of the Bentley and email it to me or post it here? I think I know the parts you mean but would like to make sure. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Looking at the quoted text from PASHAT, it looks like I either gave wrong info, or it was typed out wrong when posted.
The spec of 0.002 is not correct.
The papers I have state:
"It must NOT be possible to slide a 0.2mm feeler gauge between locking collar and gear wheel"
Basically, the papers state to loosen the single clamping bolt, press the collar down onto 5th gear, tighten the clamping bolt to 18 ft-lbs, then check the gap between the gear and collar, and it should be less than a 0.2mm gap there.


----------



## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: (Broke)*









Each one has different thickness measurement so do not mix them up. Putting the support in the incorrect location can possibly make the sleeve not operate smooth. 










_Modified by vwscream at 11:30 AM 6-17-2009_


----------



## Broke (Aug 13, 2001)

*Re: (vwscream)*

How strange... the papers I have are VW factory papers, the ones Bentley gets and publishes, but the papers are for Passat, 1995-1997 and covers the 02A on the 4-cyl and VR6 models.
Reading your Bentley (I sold my Corrado Bentley, not thinking I'd need it doing just 020 work







) it says trans built up to May 3rd, 2000 are 30 ft-lbs, my papers say 59 ft-lbs (they actually say 80Nm only, no ft-lbs or any of that, there is no Americanized info in it), and my papers for the 95-97 models gives info on the washers which your Bentley says wasn't used until after May 4th, 2000








Specifically, these papers cover codes CCM, CHA, CNL, CHU, CRU, and CTN codes, in the 95-97 Passats with the VR6, 1.9TDI, and 2.0L engines.








Here is the part about the segments, and how to ID them and the measurements on them...








Thanks for posting the pic http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
This is something I'll dig into more when I actually start doing 02A work... for now, I'm swamped with 020 stuff










_Modified by Broke at 2:55 PM 6-17-2009_


----------



## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: (Broke)*









up to transmission build date 03 05 0 = May 3rd 1990
The bolt and washer been changed upgraded to no loctite needed. I run into the problem when using older G60 input shaft with VR6 Pinion. Assembled my self a Frankenstein Transmission using old spare parts from three other units.
from transmission build date 04 05 0 = May 5th 1990
Later on the 5th gear hub was upgraded to use catches. This caused me problems too. Parts supplier sent me the new syncro for the catch hub even that invoice showed the old part # and I was still using the older set up. Ended up finding the hub and sleeve for the 3 catch 5th gear in my parts box and ordered up new catches. 
The 02A and 02J are similar and do use the newer 5th gear hub sleeve set up.


----------



## Broke (Aug 13, 2001)

*Re: (vwscream)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwscream* »_ 1990

1990, not 2000.... Doh!








Part of learning the 02A I suppose, getting those pesky decades sorted out


----------



## vwscream (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)*

For those who do not feel that heating the case is an option.

_Quote, originally posted by *PASHAT* »_Here is todays photo shoot, so far:









Picture 118 - I heated the back side of the reverse bearing holder with a torch to heat it up.










Picture 119 - I applied something cold to the bearing to cool it off. This, for those of you who haven’t seen it, is snow. It is basically just frozen water but is somehow different from ice. I could have used either snow or ice, as there is plenty outside my shop. Now, there is little bits of snow on my work table. Those bits will still be there when I go out later on. 
Hence my rush to get this done.

I tried all sorts of things to get this bearing out. I tried using vice grips, after I heated it, but they couldn’t grab the wee bit that was sticking out. It appears to be a bit rounded. Then I thought of a bearing separator that I could wedge in, but the bearing could not be accessed this way by the parts of the case that stick up higher than it. I also tried to “slam” it, which Old Man Dubsy told me was more of a firm planting on the wooden table from a few inches up. It did not work. Perhaps the case needed to be hotter. 
Finally I tried a chisel, which was a mistake. The bearing is actually surrounded by a lip in the case. NO WAY to get a chisel in there. The gap between the bearing and the case is recessed. See later pictures. All I did was bang up the case. No real harm done, but I had to make sure that no bits of aluminum were pushed into the exposed seat for the bearing.
I was going to try to thread a bolt into the bearing race at the bottom where it narrows, but then I thought of my cheap 12.00 puller. Surely that wouldn’t work……








Picture 120 – Wrong – O! With a little modification this had potential. I re-heated the case. (Now, why would it have cooled off? The temp was only -5 C……..You can talk in Celsius, can’t you)








Picture 121 – Success. The case is on its side so that I can heat on one side and pull on the other.








Picture 122 – The damage I did with the chisel method. What did someone say about not being able to expect perfection on your first tranny rebuild. Also note the large hole in the case above the reverse bearing hole. This is the place where the bearing for the input shaft should go. It might look like there is a shoulder on the bottom, but the hole actually gets bigger there. There is nothing to prevent the bearing from being pushed too deep, I don’t think. Since this bearings placement will have an effect on preload of the input shaft, I would like to get this right. Should I just press it in flush? Which side should I press from? 








Picture 123 – I started the bearing by hand.








Picture 124 - I used a mallet and a piece of wood to drive this. The contact surface of the bearing race is very small, so I did not use the old bearing at this point. I was not sure about using heat to assist here. Seems to me that if this got too hot it might damage the plastic needle bearing sleeve.








Picture 125 – I then made sure that this bearing was seated. I had to line the old bearing race up carefully so as to make sure that it was pushing only on the edges of the new one. I was concerned that if it slid over the force would damage the needle bearings or their plastic carrier.
With some assistance on the procedures to get the input shaft done, I will continue to make progress.
Thanks to so many for all the assistance so far. It has been very appreciated. I welcome all comments and also all criticism. I don’t want to post something that is wrong for others to see, so correct me if I make an error.
_Modified by PASHAT at 8:09 PM 11-11-2006_

I could not find a way to pull the bearing out from the case. Some DIY have you using a puller but in my case there was no lip that you can grab on to. Here is a way I found that worked using a plug and loctite.
Use a screw driver to pull out the needle cages. Than make a plug that fits snug into the race with thread in the center for your puller. 








Clean the surface and use loctite. Let it set for 24hrs. 3hrs will do at 70 degrees but I left it alone till the next night. Here is a pic after I pulled the race out. 








The puller I used was from harbor freight $12. Its also the one that you modify the arms so you can remove the pinion race.








Picture of when the bearing moved. 








Here is the bearing in question.


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## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

Why did this never get FAQ status?


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## VdubzJetta (Dec 16, 2010)

When you did this was it hard to get to the reverse gear set up? i got a mk3 golf and my reverse is shot. i plan on dropping the transmission and fixing reverse only because all other gears shift into good. I just want to replace the reverse set up. can you help please?!


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## Mr.loops (May 27, 2010)

VdubzJetta said:


> When you did this was it hard to get to the reverse gear set up? i got a mk3 golf and my reverse is shot. i plan on dropping the transmission and fixing reverse only because all other gears shift into good. I just want to replace the reverse set up. can you help please?!


You sir have an 020 transmission, not a 02A. I suggest you follow Brian's step-by-step teardown here: http://www.brokevw.com/teardown.html


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