# The truth about A/C removal



## Coupe__88 (Sep 14, 2003)

A/C removal 8v cars with manual steering :
There are a lot of myths and unknowns out there while getting rid of the A/C in an 8v. There are probably a couple different ways to do it. This is what I found was easiest.
PARTS LIST:
Crankshaft and water pump pulley from non A/C car
non-A/C alternator adjustment bracket (one with the teeth)
(3) 6mm hex wrenches to simplify removal of pullies 
V-belt for non-A/C car
thread locker for safe measures
some good drinks to keep your cool while workinf with the pullies. 

-remove A/C condenser in front of radiator (remove grille / radiator support to do this.) 
- correctly dispose of any refrigerant in the system ( mine was dead so no worries)
-remove all A/C lines 
- you can install the A/C block off plate on the firewall, i have it , but chose not to use it, i just left the A/C connections and seal reside as they are. 
-loosen the belts
-remove the pullies
-remove the behemoth of an A/C pump and bracket (6mm allen and I believe 4 13mm + the belt tension adjustment nuts)
-install the non-A/C pullies using a dap of threadlocker ( use it on all of the fastners in this project, i have found them loosening themselves more than any other fastners on the car) 
in my situation i had to modify the order of parts on the alternator fan/pully assembly. When I took it off it went: NUT:WASHERULLEY:FAN:SPACER:ALTERNATOR
I dont know if this is the correct order from the factory but the fan rubbed on the heat sheild when test mounting things so I altered it. 
NUTULLEY:WASHER:SPACER:FAN:ALTERNATOR
-mount the alternator, tension the belt, take it for a drive and re-checck bolt torques after the drive (dont wanna be goin to work and have a pulley fall off) 
-throw away all the garbage youve collected, clean off the ratiator with the hose ( you would be surprised at how much crap gets lodged in here , my driveway was stained black from all the gunk) 
thats all. have fun . go porcupines


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## 2dr8vAnthony (Jun 27, 2002)

/// puts on coat and grabs keys for trip to junkyard///


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## JRblk1 (May 2, 2002)

*Re: The truth about A/C removal (Coupe__88)*

Nice explanation Coupe. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I was happy to get rid of all that weight off my passenger side motor mount when I did mine. Plus gettin' rid of the condensor in front of the rad helped with cooling.


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## Coupe__88 (Sep 14, 2003)

*Re: The truth about A/C removal (JRblk1)*

I also noticed that the cooling was slightly improved without the condenser in the way, throttle response is a tad quicker, overall the car is just that much easirer to work on with it out of the way. All I have now is an alternator and a water pump. I love the simplicity. You may want to grab a couple spare 6mm hex bolts in case 2 of them strip like in my case. I drilled them out and stuck the wrench back in and it worked, kinda strange. Anyhow , the handling is just a tad more balanced from the light front end, and the engine sounds beautiful without the dead AC compressor making a ringing sound while spinning. very well worth the time. 
I actually installed A/C on a golf and the difference in weight of all the A/C parts in the dash is not even worth the effort unless the dash is out anyway. 
Feel free to ask any questions, I went in not knowing what to expect but it turned out alright. 


_Modified by Coupe__88 at 6:04 PM 10-25-2003_


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## Scrulnik (Jun 28, 2003)

*Re: The truth about A/C removal (Coupe__88)*

Yeah, coupe, thanks again for this. I'm sure there are very few people on the vortex that _don't_ want to do this.
I'll be working on mine next week.


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## Coupe__88 (Sep 14, 2003)

*Re: The truth about A/C removal (Scrulnik)*

When it came to A/C removal , I initially thought " cake, just take out all the A/C stuff" then when I noticed the complexity of removing the pump, I just let the pump hang out and spin freely in its same place. I took a closer look a few months later, saw that the alternator is the same and that i only needed 2 pullies a belt , the alternator tensioner and the basic wrenching needs and its simple. 
NOTE: I looked at another car and the alternator pulley assembly was the way I had to alter it to make the fan clear the heat sheild which means mine must have been installed wrong the last time . So you probably wont need to mess with the alternator unless it interferes. 


_Modified by Coupe__88 at 8:41 AM 10-26-2003_


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## VolksRacer2 (Aug 6, 2002)

*Re: The truth about A/C removal (Coupe__88)*

Just as a little side note...a rubber strap type wrench (Craftsman strap-wrench or the like) works VERY well at holding the pulleys while you remove their bolts.


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## vaskater (Aug 19, 2003)

*Re: The truth about A/C removal (VolksRacer2)*

Actually, a better (or at least cheaper) for pulley bolt removal is to use an allen wrench in one bolt and an allen socket in another and then use a large screwdriver braced between the two so that you can use it to apply counter-force to the torque you're using to break the bolt. The result? Ah-ha, the pulley is still! The best technique I've tried yet...


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## MKII420 (Jul 18, 2003)

*Re: The truth about A/C removal (Coupe__88)*

hey brian, this should definately go in they 8v FAQ, if not done already!


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## Coupe__88 (Sep 14, 2003)

*Re: The truth about A/C removal (MKII420)*

for real shun


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## vwhotrodder 2 (Feb 10, 2003)

*Re: The truth about A/C removal (Coupe__88)*

I also removed my a\c and have found that when I put the defrost fan to clear the windshield it is very weak!! Any idea's???


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## Coupe__88 (Sep 14, 2003)

*Re: The truth about A/C removal (vwhotrodder 2)*

vaccum leak not closing the other flaps??? there are a lot of lines under the dash


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## vwhotrodder 2 (Feb 10, 2003)

*Re: The truth about A/C removal (Coupe__88)*

Cool, thanks I'll have a look @ them!!


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## Carver1 (Sep 27, 2003)

I just cut the belt on my 79 to get rid of the a/c. Is mine different? I have one belt from the crank, alt, and water pump. the belt I cut off went from the crank, a free spinning pulley on the timing cover, and the a/c compressor. I'm thinking mine might have been aftermarket? I haven't removed the compressor yet. I want to hook it up somehow to just have a defroster and thats it. Is there an easy eay to do this?


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## Unit00 (Jan 25, 2003)

Sure makes the car helluva lot easier to work on.


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## yellowbird (Feb 4, 2001)

*Re: (Unit00)*

hey people, ive been doing the same project, but had alot of trouble finding a non-AC a2.
i did however get the part #s from local vw dealer.
crankshaft pulley: 026 105 255
water pump pulley: 026 121 031
belt: 050 903 137
alt. arm bracket: 026 903 247B
hope that helps!


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## PrezeS-E36 (Apr 20, 2003)

*Re: The truth about A/C removal (Coupe__88)*

Any tips on doing this in car with power steering ?


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## Black86GTI (Jun 4, 2002)

*Re: The truth about A/C removal (PrezeS-E36)*

OK when i did this i just got a diff pulley from the junk yard one day that was the same dia. but longer. took the a/c compressor off bolted the alt. on, with the tens. and threw a belt on so i only changed one pully


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## s3ri3s1 (Jan 12, 2005)

*Re: The truth about A/C removal (vwhotrodder 2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwhotrodder 2* »_ I also removed my a\c and have found that when I put the defrost fan to clear the windshield it is very weak!! Any idea's???


I can tell you exactly what is going on. The defrost uses the A/Cs dryer to help drive the air, and now that is it gone, the air is still moist


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## jimmyangst (Feb 4, 2005)

*Re: The truth about A/C removal (vaskater)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vaskater* »_Actually, a better (or at least cheaper) for pulley bolt removal is to use an allen wrench in one bolt and an allen socket in another and then use a large screwdriver braced between the two so that you can use it to apply counter-force to the torque you're using to break the bolt. The result? Ah-ha, the pulley is still! The best technique I've tried yet...

Simple genius! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif When I did my engine swap, the pulley R&R drove me bonkers. I do like the craftsman strap-wrench idea too, but I already have a healthy allen wrench & socket collection. less $$ spent=good...


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## jodiemeglio (Jan 26, 2004)

*Re: The truth about A/C removal (jimmyangst)*

i made this to delete 8v ac and ps using a 16v alt. haven't got to try it out yet. i'm working on another that is just the top mount for the alt so the 8v one can be used... honestly if you shim your pulley right and get the right sized belt(probably not the same as a non ac 8v) you don't need donor parts, you just need some huge washers to use as spacers and some patience matching a belt.... just my 2 cents


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## PrezeS-E36 (Apr 20, 2003)

*Re: The truth about A/C removal (jodiemeglio)*

I just got back from junkyard got no A/C alternator bracket and no A/C power steering bracket two pulleys and two almost brand new belts for 12.99 so it was worth the trip .


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## andycirullo (Sep 15, 2004)

bump


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## jodiemeglio (Jan 26, 2004)

*Re: (andycirullo)*

i made this one last night to use the 8v alternator.. lost a lot of unneeded weight.


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## quadmodrophenia (Dec 6, 2002)

*Re: (jodiemeglio)*

I must have done something wrong but I'm having some issues with fan clearance.
I yanked my PS about 6 months ago and finally decided it was time to pull the AC last week.
I got the belt and the alternator tensioner from the dealer for little to nothing but ETKA said there was no difference in parts numbers between the alternator bracket for AC or non AC car.
Pulled the compressor bracket and mounted the alternator directly to the small bracket that was behind it. Installed the new belt but I'm still using the old pulleys because they work and I don't feel like yanking them just yet. and if I install my alternator fan it would cut the timing belt in half.
I've driven 600 miles since last week without the alternator fan on and the volt gauge still ready just under 14v while driving.
Any clue as to how I can get the fan to fit without cutting into the TB?


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## jodiemeglio (Jan 26, 2004)

*Re: (quadmodrophenia)*


_Quote, originally posted by *quadmodrophenia* »_I must have done something wrong but I'm having some issues with fan clearance.
I yanked my PS about 6 months ago and finally decided it was time to pull the AC last week.
I got the belt and the alternator tensioner from the dealer for little to nothing but ETKA said there was no difference in parts numbers between the alternator bracket for AC or non AC car.
Pulled the compressor bracket and mounted the alternator directly to the small bracket that was behind it. Installed the new belt but I'm still using the old pulleys because they work and I don't feel like yanking them just yet. and if I install my alternator fan it would cut the timing belt in half.
I've driven 600 miles since last week without the alternator fan on and the volt gauge still ready just under 14v while driving.
Any clue as to how I can get the fan to fit without cutting into the TB?

if you removed the big bracket, that's for the alternator and the ac, put that back in!!! if not get a smaller belt so you don't have to push the alternator so far back to tension it.


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## quadmodrophenia (Dec 6, 2002)

*Re: (jodiemeglio)*

I think the goal for tomorrow is to cut the bracket out pretty close to that
_Quote, originally posted by *jodiemeglio* »_


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## lakewoodgolf (Jan 15, 2005)

*Re: (quadmodrophenia)*

ok iv'e got a question.i have to peplace my alt anyway so it's a good time to do the delete.If i'm still going to use the a/c pump bracket and the new (non-ac) alt is going to use the same pivot points as the old one.do i really need a non-a/c toothed bracket arm?it's my understanding that the only difference in the two alternators is how far the pullys extend out from the shaft and not how the two would mount.don't they mount the same way?


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## jamesn67 (Nov 15, 2001)

*Re: (lakewoodgolf)*

It's going to make a difference to the belt length required.
You might have to play around to find one that allows you
to get enough tension with the a/c toothed bracket.


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## lakewoodgolf (Jan 15, 2005)

*Re: (jamesn67)*

i figured that would be the issue.thanks for the reply


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## jodiemeglio (Jan 26, 2004)

*Re: (lakewoodgolf)*

i used a 39 and a 1/2 inch belt on mine. snugged right up!


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## jodiemeglio (Jan 26, 2004)

*Re: (jodiemeglio)*

i'm working on my wiring right now so it looks like a non ac car


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## lakewoodgolf (Jan 15, 2005)

*Re: (jodiemeglio)*

any chance you have a metric size on that 39 1/2 belt?


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## jodiemeglio (Jan 26, 2004)

*Re: (lakewoodgolf)*

um, no any parts store should have it. whats the conversion? 2.something cm to 1 inch


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## jamesn67 (Nov 15, 2001)

*Re: (jodiemeglio)*

25.4mm to 1 inch 
or
2.54cm to 1 inch


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## jodiemeglio (Jan 26, 2004)

*Re: (jamesn67)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jamesn67* »_25.4mm to 1 inch 
or
2.54cm to 1 inch

that's what i was thinking but then i was thinking is that might be pi and the conversion rate is 3.14 even though that seemed kind of large


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## jamesn67 (Nov 15, 2001)

*Re: (jodiemeglio)*

No PI involved in that conversion http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Just multiply by either 25.4 or 2.54 to get mm's or cm's


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## jodiemeglio (Jan 26, 2004)

*Re: (jamesn67)*

i got my wiring done, i removed the ac relay and all spare wires. i can make a diagram and post pics if anyone is interested.


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## Nash20thAE (Aug 12, 2003)

*Re: (jodiemeglio)*

If you could post 'em that would be great. Plan on attacking the a/c this weekend!


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## 2deepn2dubs (Oct 27, 2002)

*Re: (Nash20thAE)*

all you guys are either crazy or live in alaska







I drove aircooled vws for years suffering in the heat without a/c, one reason I drive watercooled is for the modern luxuries such as a/c... must have it here in Fresno, 110 deg for weeks at a time in the summer.







anyway this thread will help me put the a/c back in my gti, that someone pulled out.







summer will be here soon, Thanks!


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## quadmodrophenia (Dec 6, 2002)

*Re: (2deepn2dubs)*

If you need any parts I'll trade you out if you've got proper pieces and not home made non-ac stuff. I need the non-ac bracket and pulleys and I'm set.


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## jodiemeglio (Jan 26, 2004)

*Re: (quadmodrophenia)*

ok so here goes nothing! basically my fan turns on whenever the radiator sensor tells it to. no afterrun bs and no defrost crap. 
first thing to do, unhook your battery!
remove a/c and the ac wiring. unplug/cut this thing out(cooling fan relay/after run control unit)
it's on the fan shroud. 








unplug your fan and your rad temp fan switch. remove those wires, and save!!!
connect the red/black wire and the red/white wire on the two plugs
















after that go back to the car and connect the brown wire (ground) that was going into the relay to the brown that goes into the fan.
connect the solid red(positive) to the solid red going into the switch. done and done. i recommend solder and heat shrink tubing. i ran out of solder and had to use some butt connectors but i'll get those out of there soon. 
don't make fun of it here's my diagram


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## jodiemeglio (Jan 26, 2004)

*Re: (jodiemeglio)*

oh yeah, i was wrong about the belt i used too.... i used a 40 and 1/2 inch belt on my setup. here's a pic of my shimmed pulley.


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## mk3dub (Jun 17, 2002)

*Re: (jodiemeglio)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jodiemeglio* »_ok so here goes nothing! basically my fan turns on whenever the radiator sensor tells it to. no afterrun bs and no defrost crap. 
first thing to do, unhook your battery!
remove a/c and the ac wiring. unplug/cut this thing out(cooling fan relay/after run control unit)
it's on the fan shroud. 








unplug your fan and your rad temp fan switch. remove those wires, and save!!!
connect the red/black wire and the red/white wire on the two plugs
















after that go back to the car and connect the brown wire (ground) that was going into the relay to the brown that goes into the fan.
connect the solid red(positive) to the solid red going into the switch. done and done. i recommend solder and heat shrink tubing. i ran out of solder and had to use some butt connectors but i'll get those out of there soon. 
don't make fun of it here's my diagram









Not to bring back a thread from the dead, but I'm removing the A/C on my rocco and stumbled across this...
A few questions: Is this the relay in question?








If so, when I discard this completely and rewire the stuff as outlined above, which wires do I use? It looks like I have two brown and two red wires. Do I use the ones from the harness that run back towards the firewall, or the other ones in the smaller two-wire clip? Also, can I remove any of the harness after I do this, or do I just leave it there?
Thanks for your help!


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## mk3dub (Jun 17, 2002)

*Re: (mk3dub)*

anyone?


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## scottamus36 (Jun 13, 2002)

I dont understand how people are able to mount an 8v alt where the AC pump used to be on the bracket... Where The Alternator attaches to the bracket its inside to inside... the AC pump mounts outside to outside on the bracket...
What am I missing here?...


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## mk3dub (Jun 17, 2002)

*Re: (scottamus36)*

Not sure what engine you're working on, but I just replaced my cast A/C bracket with my alt.


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## affende (Jul 28, 2007)

*Re: (jodiemeglio)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jodiemeglio* »_oh yeah, i was wrong about the belt i used too.... i used a 40 and 1/2 inch belt on my setup. 


zombie thread ...

i used the same, but the alternator wound all the way out ... 41" / 41.5" would have fit better for mine ...


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## ronnie224 (Mar 3, 2008)

*Re: (scottamus36)*

Take whatever information you read online with a grain of salt.....I have experienced the same thing....adding spacers to extend the stock pulley further out moves it off the shaft and it starts sitting on the threaded part of the alternator shaft ......which has a lot more play and would definitely not be a good longterm sound solution.....my two and a half cents


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## chickenfriend (Jan 31, 2005)

*Re: (ronnie224)*

I believe a 57mm is the correct offset for a non-AC configuration, offset defined as the distance between the center of the v-pulley groove to the face of the alternator.


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## Longitudinal (Nov 13, 2004)

*Re: The truth about A/C removal (Coupe__88)*

I don't feel like reading the whole thread to see if somebody has mentioned it yet, so:
Any VW Fox could supply the parts you need to remove AC. Even Foxes with AC have the same crank pulley, WP pulley and alternator setup. Just grab the back crank pulley, WP pulley, alternator bracket and alternator or just alternator pulley.


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## ronnie224 (Mar 3, 2008)

*Re: (chickenfriend)*

That definitely sounds about right slightly over 2 inches.....I think the swapping of all the pulleys involved for a non-ac is most likely the best longterm solution


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## mk2gtilover (Dec 5, 2007)

i used a 1065mm belt, left the alternator where its sits originally and just deleted the entire a/c system, on 92 gti digi2 with power steering. and if anybody wants, all you have to buy other than the belt is a pulley from http://www.toywagen.com, they specifically make a new pulley for a/c delete, simple removal and only 2 parts to buy. real easy.


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## fizay (Oct 10, 2008)

*Re: The truth about A/C removal (Coupe__88)*

I have a JH motor, and have gotten to the point where the AC compressor, and the alternator is out. BUT FOR THE LIFE OF ME, I do not know how to get the compressor bracket off the engine block! I've searched, and cannot really find specific info. I've gotten the bottom bolts out, According to my bentley, which is specific to Sciroccos but not JH motors(which was put it some time afterwards), there should be 2 hex bolts hidden beneath my cam covers which is supposed to hold it, right? I took both bottom and top cams off, and they're not there! From what I can see, it looks welded/ solidly attached on the side closest to the cam gear. Can anyone comment on this?


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## chickenfriend (Jan 31, 2005)

*Re: The truth about A/C removal (vaskater)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vaskater* »_Actually, a better (or at least cheaper) for pulley bolt removal is to use an allen wrench in one bolt and an allen socket in another and then use a large screwdriver braced between the two so that you can use it to apply counter-force to the torque you're using to break the bolt. The result? Ah-ha, the pulley is still! The best technique I've tried yet...

First time I heard about that technique. Sounds good to know. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## jeepnut27 (Feb 26, 2006)

Is this worth the effort? There are several Non-AC, Non-PS motors in the local yards. Ive got a Jeep without AC and can live without it. Is it worth the effort to convert over?? I can get the brackets and pulleys with one trip to the yard and not much $$$.


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## sillyrabbit83 (Mar 10, 2009)

*Re: (mk2gtilover)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk2gtilover* »_i used a 1065mm belt, left the alternator where its sits originally and just deleted the entire a/c system, on 92 gti digi2 with power steering. and if anybody wants, all you have to buy other than the belt is a pulley from http://www.toywagen.com, they specifically make a new pulley for a/c delete, simple removal and only 2 parts to buy. real easy.

that website http://www.toywagen.com which has the longer pulley, that was the best thing ive been looking for THANKS!!


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## 88GL05GTI (Jul 13, 2009)

*Re: The truth about A/C removal (Coupe__88)*

I had an unorthodox crank pulley on and i pulled all components of the a/c but could not get it back toether with all the pulleys ligning up correctly. I took it to a VW place they got it working but had to replace my carnk pulley with a stock one. How can i make it mork with the after market crank pulley and or is it even worth it?


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## jettajake777 (Feb 7, 2009)

*Re: The truth about A/C removal (88GL05GTI)*

You guys know you can remove the a/c and p/s without buying anything but a 38in. V belt (roughly). I've done it to three mk2's.


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## Patter$on (Jun 29, 2008)

*Re: The truth about A/C removal (jettajake777)*

Back from the dead, but you don't even need to buy a belt. I did it today, I'm going to clean it all up and paint tomorrow, I'll take pictures and post them up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Patter$on (Jun 29, 2008)

*FV-QR*

As promised. Pics are a bit crappy but hey they get to the point.
Get rid of this piece: 2 8mm hex bolts, and two 13mm nuts. Mine was missing the stock adjuster.









And this turd: 2 13mm bolts 1 6mm hex bolt.








As you remove the bracket you'll notice there are two bolts that go into the water pump housing, there is also a horizontal bolt behind the timing cover (6mm hex







). This needs to come out also. Then simply lift up on the bracket. It may take a bit but it will come right out. Then you get to clean. Yay. It will be nasty and you won't want people to be able to see all the crudiness. Unless you're into the whole patina thing, but it goes waaaaay beyond patina. 
You'll see a small 90' bracket that the aforementioned horizontal bolt went through. Leave it. You'll need a couple of spacers for the pulley. First take the original spacer from behind the fan and put it in front of the fan. Then get two washers approx 1/8 thick and put them between the pulley, and the spacer. (FYI the nut for the Alt pulley is 24mm) Place the Alternator into that gap. Replace the horizontal bolt back through the alt, and the bracket. Your upper arm goes right back where it was originally. Replace the original WP/AC belt around the Crank, WP, and Alt. Tighten all the fasteners. 
You end up with this:








Enjoy


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## vwbeaner (Jun 4, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (IM16Vlvn)*

I just got the pulley from Toywagen.com








$68 with the new belt
$52 without the belt


_Modified by vw****** at 10:36 PM 8-17-2009_


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