# I give up!!!



## vdubdust (Jan 17, 2009)

I have a hesitation in the car " 2.8 30v v6" 
changed to fuel filter,,got better messed around driving it till the check engine light came on.
put new plugs in it,, better still,,but still not good,,light still on
fuel injector cleaner and MAS cleaner, little better
installed new MAS,,almost right but still hesitates and light blinks when it does,,
do i just need to have the ecu reset?
And now i have noticed a oil leak around the oil filter...
Any help?


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

*Re: I give up!!! (vdubdust)*

If the CEL is on...what are the codes? Unless you read codes you're just shootin in the dark....go to Autozone etc where they read OBDII diagnostics codes for free and then post em here..you can get definitions of VW codes on the Bentley Publishers website! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## chudzikb (Sep 21, 2000)

*Re: I give up!!! (spitpilot)*

What he said above. Plus, the codes make it so you DO NOT have to throw parts at the problem. They will tell you exactly what is wrong, at least most of the time.


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## DeDe (Jan 30, 2009)

*Re: I give up!!! (vdubdust)*

Codes will help for sure.
My bet is a spark plug wire and the codes would be able to tell you which one. Or the coil module.
The engine light blinking means misfire and the codes will tell you which one.
I would then change the spark plug wire to see it the defect moves with it...
Good luck


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## vdubdust (Jan 17, 2009)

*Re: I give up!!! (vdubdust)*

OK,,,
I had i scanned and it is miss fireing on 1 and 5
That is on the same coil on the coil bank,,,
got new coil pack
And by the way, To reset the CEL You disconnect the Neg wire from the battery for about a minute, Hook it back up and depress the gas pedel for a few seconds and then crank the car and it will rest the ECU!!!
After this It was doing great for a few miles and then it started again!!
This time not as bad and the "emissions workshop" would light up and the CEL will flash for a few seconds then go out. 
Now if you drive the car lightly "rev slowly" it is fine,you can run it all the way up to the redline.
But when you hit the gas hard or fast it will stumble and the lights will come on.... So now I am thinking EGR or The Cat?
If I ever get this right i should be good for a while on service,,,by the way anyone need a used coil,and MAS that is probley just as good as the new ones I just installed?


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## DeDe (Jan 30, 2009)

*Re: I give up!!! (vdubdust)*

It is good to know you have a MAS and coil pack.. Who knows...
Did you tried to swap spark plug wires from one side to the other?
At this point I would scan it and see first which cyls are misfiring.
Then, I would swap the wires from one side to the other. Then hit it hard to produce the blinking of the CEL and scan again. Did the defect moved with the wires? If yes, the wires are bad.
I admit, having a scanner (Vag-com) is helpful so you don't go to the shop everytime...
Cat might also be an issue. If parts inside (ceramics) are damaged and are just sitting around, at high revs they block the exhaust and give you trouble. While driving "slow" those parts are not blocking the exhaust. I have seen "clogged" cats that are getting red-hot and the power of the car was considerable reduced.
But as I could notice you are quite quick in throwing parts at her...
I would advice you to make a correct diagnostic before replacing any more parts. Especially since the cat is not cheap.
Let us know...


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## vdubdust (Jan 17, 2009)

I have looked at the wires and they look ok? and knowing that the cyl 1 and 5 are on different sides of the motor it seems like they should be fine??? hell I dont know any more!
And yes the scan tool is on my list of things to get.
And if what you say about the cat is true then i will rule it out ,,cause if you press the gas slowly you can run it up the redline with no trouble.
Have been told about a EGR valve may be bad? where is that damn thing? I think i know,,is it the small plactic cyl on top of the airbox,,it has two hoses "one on each side and a elec plug clipped in it?


_Modified by vdubdust at 8:02 AM 1-31-2009_


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## DeDe (Jan 30, 2009)

*Re: (vdubdust)*

Ok, let's do it one by one:
If you plan to do more repair on your own you might consider buying the real Vag-com from Ross-Tech.
If you just want to play around you can get a interface cable from Alpha bid (ebay) and a shareware version of their software.
Here is how to do it:
http://diyrabbit.com/projects/vagcom/
Second: Spark plug wires will look very OK even if they are bad. There is hardly a way to tell if one is bad.
An OEM spark plug wire from the dealership is about $30-40 but you need to know which one is faulty. Or, you can buy a set for $160.
But again, before throwing more money at it I would first make sure if and which one is faulty.
Vag com will tell you that.
When you swap, you have to consider you cannot swap different lenghts, so you you will want to swap wires from 1 and 4 (same lenght)
Having the VagCom lets you scan before and after the swap.
Another way of checking (not as elegant) is to remove the spark plug from cyl 1 and see how wet it is. This will give you some indication if that wire works or not. Eventually compare it with the spark from cyl 4.
Don't forget, running while one spark is not working properly will "wash" that cylinder, unburned gas will get in to the oil pan, oil level will raise, more damage can ocurr...


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## vdubdust (Jan 17, 2009)

Thanks DeeDee,,The ebay set up look cool and will save me a lot of bucks!
And will check out the plug wires today,


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## DeDe (Jan 30, 2009)

*Re: (vdubdust)*

The ebay thing is cool indeed but it has limitations.
The shareware will not give you correct code description.
There is a workaround to make it "real". Once you get the cable, Install the drivers make it work (I hope you don't run Vista since I have heard about problems). Once you have functionality let me know, I will describe the workaround so you get full functionality.
Good luck


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## vdubdust (Jan 17, 2009)

*Re: (DeDe)*

I just bought one,,,from Hong Kong!! so who know how long it will take to get here,,did see one local or in the same country.
Any way I will let you know when it get here. Thank you for your help!!


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## vdubdust (Jan 17, 2009)

*Re: (DeDe)*

DeDe,, 
I an still waiting on the cable,,must be on a slow boat from China,,well I guess it really is now that I think of it. 
I got tired of waiting and took it to a friend that pulled up the codes for me..And damn man its a list and keep in mind what all i have done too it in the past so hopefully some will not apply..
P1131 bank 2 sensor 1
internal reistance too low
P0300 random multi cyl misfire
P0301 cyl 1 misfire
P0305 cyl 5 misfire sporadic
P1432 secondary sporadic air injection bank 1 air flow too low
P1393 Ignition coil power output stage 1
P1394 ditto but stage 2
P1395 ditto stage 3
P1602 power supply(b+) sporadic terminal 30:low voltage
P0304 cyl 4 misfire sporadic
Also to add to the fun I have devolped a coolant leak!!!! I noticed it coming out real good from under the car, but for the life of me i cant see were the hell its coming from,,,,,it is pouring out of a heat sheild next to the cats, I have inspected the engine compartment and can see no sign of were this could be coming from...................


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## chudzikb (Sep 21, 2000)

*Re: (vdubdust)*

Which side of the car is the coolant leak? 
Sorry to hear you bought the cheap Vagcom, you will regret that down the road. I would just replace the wires and see where it gets you. They are an item that seems to fail on a pretty regular basis.


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## vdubdust (Jan 17, 2009)

*Re: (chudzikb)*

the coolant leak seems to be coming from the driverside from the back side of the heatshield just in front of the cats,,, and the cheap vagcom..... i may never get it anyway!! ordered it jan 31 still not here!
and i have been thinking about just getting the wires but i have already changed out so much that i am thinking it will not work ethier,,,but who knows that may be what i need?


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## DeDe (Jan 30, 2009)

*Re: (chudzikb)*

Yeah, you will regret the 20 bucks....


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## chudzikb (Sep 21, 2000)

*Re: (DeDe)*

Your $20 does not work on MK V's... If your going to play, you got to pay. They support us, why would we not want to support ross tech?
I was thinking CTS, but, that is on the wrong side...


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

*Re: (chudzikb)*

basically rule of thumb from what I have learned. ANy time you get an O2 sensor code (internal resistance, heater circuit, slow response) you replace that O2 sensor. As for the secondary air, you need to check the vacuum line going to the combi valve on that bank and also check to see if the valve holds vacuum. If either is bad replace them. Also higher mileage vw coolant resivours tend to crack at the seam or get stress cracks in them and leak.


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## nhdubber121 (Feb 24, 2009)

*Re: (Slimjimmn)*

had the same problem on my car. ended up being a cat, even though both were replaced 3500 miles ago. Disconnect exhaust from cats and rev it up and check flow from both cats, if one is less cat is clogged. mine was destroyed inside and completely clogged. started as a little hesitation, ended up with NO power at all. remember vdub warantees them for 8yrs/80k


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## QuattroDriven (Aug 25, 2008)

*Re: (nhdubber121)*

Hey what rpm's does it feel hesitant at, or does it threw out them? I know mine felt a slite hesitation around 2200, 2300 rpm's.


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