# TT MK1 Stroker Build Planning, Have some Questions



## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

Hey guys i am new to this forum, i dont really frequent forums too much, and when i have i'll accasionally hit the Audiworld.com forum. But i see that most people have moved on to either here or Quattroworld. Anyway i made a post on Audiworld.com and now posting that same info/question. 

Any info anyone has to offer i would definitely appreciate, I am trying to plan this out properly and do it the right way. Oh yeah and just answer that "Why Would You Want To do That?" type of question. I can answer that with a simple .... Because I Want To. LOL 

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Ok i have started the plans of a full Bore and stroker build for my Audi TT MK1

Currently my car is the 2002 TT 225 AWD ALMS Edition w/AMU engine code - Its my daily driver so i will be doing a complete build on another block / head, as well as everything else, then when fully ready, swap it out

I just recently acquired the AEB Large port head, with completely new valve train Ferrea oversized valves, sitting in my garage as i type this.

i have been planning this for quite sometime now, have gathered a good bit of info and currently narrowing down exactly what i want. I dont have everything down to exact specifics yet, still researching and evaluating as much as possible. One thing i am evaluating is doing a Bore to 2.0 on a block and also stroking it giving me the 2.2l displacement - What are the concerns with boring and stroking? that is one question i have.

but not the main question i have for this thread, but i do welcome any info regarding the displacment question.

My main question i have right now it based around what block to use for my build, knowning that i have the AEB large port head. The mechanics shop that is helping me with the build has another TT with the ATC engine code, of course the block will be fully gutted, bored with all new internals...

SO the question is will the block from an ATC engine code work with the AEB head - I know there are differences with cam and valve timing between the ATC engine code and the AEB Head when fully assembled per there Code specs, but THE BLOCK WILL BE FULLY GUTTED, BORED, STROKED, etc - SO will the BLOCK itself work? Does anyone know? any info anyone have to offer i would appreciate.

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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Any 1.8T head will work with any 1.8T block, so to answer your main question: yes it will work. Cam and valve timing are no different on any 1.8T head. To go to 2.2L and up, you'll be looking at a TDI crank, 95,5mm stroke, which requires more to make work. The easiest and least expensive stroker setup is to drop in a 92.8mm crank, either AEG cast or FSI forged, with the correct oil pump gear, and bore to 83mm or larger. 92.8 + 83mm = 2008cc. All of this has been covered more extensively in the 1.8T forum. Good luck. :beer:


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

thanks for the reply, so no concerns for a block coming out of a 180 to build stroker based on the specs you listed?


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

I would suggest NOT going 2.2L stroker motor, there have been a lot of failures from those engines as the side walls between the cylinders are to narrow resulting in cracked blocks. This is why most (if not all) companies have stopped selling those kits. I also wouldn't suggest a 2.1L ether, as you said this is your daily and 2.1L tend to eat head gaskets as the the same reason as the 2.2L


p.s. 2.0l stroker motor TT owner here - go this route


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

*Update, making progress and have another question*

Ok I am well on my way with my stroker build

Here's what I've already purchased and ready to go to the machine shop:
- 06A Block- and will bore to 82mm
- FSI Crank with 92.8 stroke
- CP Pistons 82mm and 9.5:1 CR (Tops Ceramnic Coated)
- Manley H Beam Forged Rods
- AEB Large port Head with new valves, guides, etc (Not CNC ported - only going to get the machine shop to recheck/resurface if necessary)

Here's what i have definitly decided on but have not purchased yet
- Integrated Engineering's Large Intake Manifold
- Integrated Engineering's Large Exhaust Manifold with T3 flange

Obviously there's a lot more i need so trying narrow down many but my main question right now is what turbo should i go with, i know that all depends on many factors... what i have listed above as well as plans for the car.. So my plans for the car is to keep it a daily driver street car as well as track occasionally and i would like to push around 500hp or close to it - Looking at the stroker i am going with - FSI 92.8 crank, 82mm pistons at 9.5:1 CR what would be the ideal Turbo, i am considering the followiing, what do you guys think:

- GT3071R
- GT3076R
- WB EFR 7064
- WB EFR 7670

I'd appreciate other's opinions


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

I'd go with a 3071GTX and I'd skip the IE/CTS T3 manifold and go with a Vband PPT manifold. It will make your life much easier if you are installing things yourself as well as down the road and fitment is much better in the engine bay IMO, but that's going to depend on your IC piping layout and throttle/side.


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

OK thanks v20 master - yeah i was thinking the 3071 would be more suitable to my displacement but wasnt sure. I have decided on going with the 42DD FMIC, just waiting on funds, that should give an idea of piping. Ok so i am not familiar with the differences between the CTS T3 Manifold and the Vband PPT manifold... why would the vband PPT be easier

I have some Friends who own a VW shop here in town that will/should be helping me with the build, but want to CMA and prep myself to be able to do this myself, in case they disappear, Which is why i am trying to research as much as i can. I have never done this an engine build before, but i am very mechanical capable, just need the right info and tools.

Also, wanted to run by your thoughts about this as well, these same buddies have an upgraded/modified GT28RS turbo with a vband and tial intake. modified from new, they intended to install on another buildout quite some time ago but the build never happened and has been laying around. They are saying because of the changes it is capable in the upper 400hp range on a 2.0 stroker. I can get the turbo, Manifold and the BOV for under a grand. What do you think? are they blowing smoke up my ar$ or does sound legit? if i go this route i wouldnt need to buy the PPT manifold you suggested 

thanks again


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

PPT = PagParts, it's much more compact, and WG placement is much better to reach as well as the actual head to manifold fasteners. CTS manifold buries the WG, and you can't reach it. With everything Vband, you won't have leaks. With a traditional bolt pattern flange (T25, T3, T4 etc) you will have leaks. It will happen eventually, no way around it. And when they happen, it's not a matter of just retightening things. I'm not sure what you mean by a modified Vband 28RS and Tial intake, and you didn't say what manifold it would be on. I'm assuming you mean Tial BOV or WG. A 28RS would insta spool on a 2.0 stroker, but regardless of how they modified it, would run out of steam up top if you are pushing for 500hp. Go with the 3071 or 3071GTX and you'll be very happy. There is a full PPT setup for sale by 18T_BT in the TT classifieds, not sure if that would interest you.


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

Ok that makes sense on the manifold.. on the modefied 28RS, at the moment i can only go by what the dude told me. I am trying to contact the right people to get the exact specs of that turbo and manifold. Once i get all the specs on that turbo then i will have a better idea of its capabilities but i do understand that regardless it will fall short of the 3071 capabilities... it might be worth it based on price: $1000 for the turbo, manifild and BOV vs the price of the 3071, manifold and BOV...

but anyway thanks for your help, once i get the exact specs of that turbo i will post it up here to see what you think


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

Oh and i will check out that setup in the TT Classifieds as well thanks


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## L33t A2 (Aug 5, 2003)

*FV-QR*

any 06a block
fsi crank
IE press fit oil pump gear for the crank
use 60-2 wheel from 1.8t crank on the fsi crank
if using larger than 82mm pistons you need a special headgasket from IE


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Audiguy84 said:


> I would suggest NOT going 2.2L stroker motor, there have been a lot of failures from those engines as the side walls between the cylinders are to narrow resulting in cracked blocks. This is why most (if not all) companies have stopped selling those kits. I also wouldn't suggest a 2.1L ether, as you said this is your daily and 2.1L tend to eat head gaskets as the the same reason as the 2.2L
> 
> 
> p.s. 2.0l stroker motor TT owner here - go this route



From what I understand, it's the 100mm Eurospec crank that's needed for the 2.2L that fails... or bends is more like it.

I haven't come across any 2.1L failures although it's mentioned quite a bit. Care to share said failure threads?


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

L33t A2 said:


> any 06a block
> fsi crank
> IE press fit oil pump gear for the crank
> use 60-2 wheel from 1.8t crank on the fsi crank
> if using larger than 82mm pistons you need a special headgasket from IE


FSI trigger wheel works fine for me, no need to change.


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

L33t A2 said:


> any 06a block
> fsi crank
> IE press fit oil pump gear for the crank
> use 60-2 wheel from 1.8t crank on the fsi crank
> if using larger than 82mm pistons you need a special headgasket from IE


Ok yeah i am using 06a block, the engine code of block i have is the ATC and using the AEB large port head.

and yes i discovered the other day that i will need to change the oil gear for the FSI crank (didnt realise that at first), so i have both 1.8t and FSI cranks in my possession and both have their oil gear and trigger wheel. I have planned to take everything to machine shop next week on one of my days off and have them swap the oil pump gear, Seeing that i have both cranks... you bring up a good question i guess, which trigger wheel SHOULD i use? the 1.8t? or the FSI? Logic tells me to use the FSI trigger wheel seeing that its a FSI crank.....92.8 stroke

i decided to go with the 82mm pistons w/9.5:1CR vs 83mm @ 9:1CR (i hope i didnt make a mistake there) i am thinking the difference is neglagable ... so technically my displacement will be just under 2.0L .. i think its 1961cc 

Any thoughts on the GT28RS Turbo i mentioned? So what i found out is that it was setup as a full vband setup including a vband manifild and setup with a TiAL WG including the BOV. I can get the whole setup (Turbo, Manifold and BOV) for about $1000 ... the only thing i know about manifold is that its vband and it extra heavy duty to withstand higher heat tolerances... I will see if i can get a pic of it if necessary. But my question is is that setup worth $1000 - i do realize it will fall short of what the 3071 is capable and will be limiting myself to about 25lbs of boost- The same 3071 setup will cost around $3000 not to mention everything else i will need.

Thanks for all the replies


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

The old oil pump gear will probably break teeth when they press it off. The gear itself is -$30. As I said, I didn't have to change the trigger wheel on my FSI crank. The later crank sensor should read both the toothed style and the window style wheels. As for the heavy duty manifold, you get what you pay for, and you don't want to deal with a failed manifold later. Is it cast or welded?


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

yeah i was kind of thinking the same thing, that the teeth could break when removing. i know IE has a replacement so i can order that if i have to but theirs is over $50, where did you see replacement for under $30? and ok i will use the FSI trigger wheel

I know you get what you pay for, i am not trying to be a cheap scate on this ... just on a limited budget and weighing my options is all. The Manifold is cast not welded. it's very heavy, considerably smaller physically than the IE CTS T3 manifold. The ports on it are larger than stock and very thick. Unfortunately i dont have the name brand, can only describe what is see. ALso, they described the manifold as "You'll never have to worry about heat issue with this manifold" so it's definitly not a cheapo welded. and with the full vband setup this can be used on transverse or longitudal engine mounts

i am just wondering if $1000 is considered expensive or cheap for what i would get ... turbo, mani, bov all vband

thanks again
Trey


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

I'm running a very similar engine setup to what you're building. The increased stroke/displacement definitely woke up my turbo setup and makes the car much more enjoyable to drive.

If you're planning on making 500+ have your machine shop build the motor to slightly looser tolerances. They make .001 undersized bearing sets that I ended up using on my rods/mains. The clearances were still OEM spec, however, on the looser side.

On the crank I used the IE oil pump gear as I didn't know there were other options. Have your machine shop install it- don't even attempt to on your own unless you own a serious torch. Also the crank trigger wheel- make sure they tighten that thing on real good.

Enjoy :thumbup::thumbup:



My thread for whoring purposes: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ld-v3-0-(2-0-Stroker-PTE-5857-Content-Inside)


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Doooglasss said:


> Have your machine shop install it- don't even attempt to on your own unless you own a serious torch. Also the crank trigger wheel- make sure they tighten that thing on real good.


Not sure what you mean about a torch and the oil pump gear, Doug. I put mine in the oven for about 10 minutes at 400*, dropped it on the snout of the crank, and that was that. As for the trigger wheel, that's why I said just use the FSI wheel. You don't want that thing coming loose on you. :beer:


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

Doooglasss said:


> I'm running a very similar engine setup to what you're building. The increased stroke/displacement definitely woke up my turbo setup and makes the car much more enjoyable to drive.
> 
> If you're planning on making 500+ have your machine shop build the motor to slightly looser tolerances. They make .001 undersized bearing sets that I ended up using on my rods/mains. The clearances were still OEM spec, however, on the looser side.
> 
> ...


Thanks Doug,

Yeah i am heading to the machine shop next week with everything so trying finalize everything i need for that, i am just gonna have the machine shop complete do the assembly of the internals... But one question, when you got yours bored did you get everything balanced? Crank, Rods, Pistons, etc? Some people i talk to are saying no need others are saying you really should get it all balanced. What's your take on that? 

I checked out your build Thread, VERY NICE :thumbup: . and its NEW you just got that done last month.... I bet you are loving it, nice to see a fresh new build at the same time i am getting mine started, most threads i have been reading are from build completed years ago... but based on your CP spec sheet looks like you are running 9.5:1CR? can you feel a difference from the 9:1CR? Did you go 83mm piston? Also, what intake manifold is that? that's huge, is it a custom build?, I have been looking at planning on getting the IE Large Intake manifold? Sorry for all the questions but i have been planning this for quite some time and finally starting to my build moving

I think i will start throwing some pic on here to show my progress. as well as everything else i have done to my car, i have spent the past year and a half upgrading my suspension, clutch, exhaust system, engine bay etc. So any suggestions on any other types of improvements i am open ears

thanks
Trey


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

I was in a rush (trying to make H2o in Maryland) and the machinist was backlogged and going on vacation the following week. Due to these circumstances I just had him do a hot tank, overbore/hone, deck and polish the crank journals. I handled assembly on my own. If he had more time I would have had the rotating assembly balanced. IMO it's the right place to spend the money. He wanted $350 for the balance and if that means you have to run a stock intake manifold until you save up some more cash I'd go for it.

During motor break in when I had to rev gears out with light throttle/no boost you can hear and feel the vibrations through the cabin (aftermarket mounts too) of just how unbalanced this whole drivetrain is. When reving out my friends stock 1.8T it didn't sound/feel anything like my motor. My next upgrade will definitely be a Fluidamper.


I went 83mm CP's and I came from 8.5:1 JE's on a stock displacement 1.8L so I can't really tell the difference in CR, but I can say I like the overall 2.0L setup much more than stock displacement.

Running an OBX eBay special. Honestly, for my purposes it works very well. It's an RMR intake manifold knock off. I think I paid $400 shipped brand new. They make both big port and small port so make sure you buy the right one. I think I had a thread showing detailed photos of it when I bought it. Some folks said it wouldn't hold up to big power- I've made 570awhp on a mustang dyno with this intake manifold at 32-34psi... it can take the abuse.


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

Doooglasss said:


> I was in a rush (trying to make H2o in Maryland) and the machinist was backlogged and going on vacation the following week. Due to these circumstances I just had him do a hot tank, overbore/hone, deck and polish the crank journals. I handled assembly on my own. If he had more time I would have had the rotating assembly balanced. IMO it's the right place to spend the money. He wanted $350 for the balance and if that means you have to run a stock intake manifold until you save up some more cash I'd go for it.
> .


Ok then, the machine shop here is charging $200 to balance crank, rods and pistons. Thanks for the info, i will make sure balancing is included. So for just under $900 they will do everything, boil/inspect block, index and polish crank, bore, hone & deck block, file & fit rings, balance crank/rods/pistons, and assemble rotating assembly. Sounds like it's well worth the money.

I will have to check out the intake you have, the large one at IE is $700, if i can save almost half on something that performs the same then that will definitely help

thanks again
Trey


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

As for balancing, the VW/Audi cranks are balanced from the factory. If your pistons and rods provided weights on their spec sheets, and they weigh the same like they should, then skip paying for balancing as you're just wasting your money. I made this mistake before. Guy spun my FSI crank to 10K, it was perfect. Then he weighed the pistons and rods, which all weighed the same (Pauter/Wiseco combo), and charged me $200.00.


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

20v master said:


> As for balancing, the VW/Audi cranks are balanced from the factory. If your pistons and rods provided weights on their spec sheets, and they weigh the same like they should, then skip paying for balancing as you're just wasting your money. I made this mistake before. Guy spun my FSI crank to 10K, it was perfect. Then he weighed the pistons and rods, which all weighed the same (Pauter/Wiseco combo), and charged me $200.00.


Well shoot, i am all about saving money and i am all about doing it right .... I need the machine shop to pull and press the correct Oil pump gear anyway and he aint gonna do that for free so i guess it all comes down to price... Maybe i can get him to do both for one great price :sly:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

tfifeco said:


> Well shoot, i am all about saving money and i am all about doing it right .... I need the machine shop to pull and press the correct Oil pump gear anyway and he aint gonna do that for free so i guess it all comes down to price... Maybe i can get him to do both for one great price :sly:


Removing the gear is a 2 minute process with a press. In fact, you could probably notch it with a grinder and strike it with a chisel and it would split in half without damaging the crank. Either way, any shop (you don't have to go to the builder for this) with half a brain and a press can get the gear off. I already told you how to install the new one for free. :beer:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> Removing the gear is a 2 minute process with a press. In fact, you could probably notch it with a grinder and strike it with a chisel and it would split in half without damaging the crank. Either way, any shop (you don't have to go to the builder for this) with half a brain and a press can get the gear off. I already told you how to install the new one for free. :beer:


I used a gear puller from HFR to pull the old one off. Came off easily. I had trouble getting the new one on but I cooked the gear in a BBQ at full heat haha


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

Doooglasss said:


> I used a gear puller from HFR to pull the old one off. Came off easily. I had trouble getting the new one on but I cooked the gear in a BBQ at full heat haha


Ok, Ordered the new Oil gear, chain and tensioner from IE, dropped everything else off at the machine shop. When they arrive i will be dropping those items off as well so hopefully i will be able to pickup the Shortblock assembled in a couple of weeks.

I've decided to skip the crank balancing process and go with upgraded 6 bolt timing belt gear and fluidampr crank pully FSI style from IE. I havent purchased this yet so if there's any reason why i wouldnt want to upgrade to this style please let me know. I need to purchase them anyway and the std 4 bolt 1.8 is the same price as the 6 bolt.

Also, i will be ordering the Head Gasket kit and head studs, Question: should i get the APR head studs( about $200) or the std OE Head botts (about $35) will the OE bolts be good enough for around 400hp? or should i bite the bullet and go with the APR Studs?

Thanks 
-Trey


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

I'd say bolts. I ran OEM head bolts to over 500chp, so it's not a question of them holding. The studs don't offer a benefit at your target power level and I'm not sure you can get the head off the block with studs once the motor is in the car (rain tray/cowl may not left you lift the head off high enough to clear the studs). May not be a concern for you, but I"m putting the ARP bolts in the stroker I'm currently working on.


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

20v master said:


> I'd say bolts. I ran OEM head bolts to over 500chp, so it's not a question of them holding. The studs don't offer a benefit at your target power level and I'm not sure you can get the head off the block with studs once the motor is in the car (rain tray/cowl may not left you lift the head off high enough to clear the studs). May not be a concern for you, but I"m putting the ARP bolts in the stroker I'm currently working on.


Ok thanks master, so if i do plan on 500hp i should still be fine with the Std 10mm head bolts?

Now i have a few questions about VVT / VCT - my knowledge and understanding about Variable valve/cam timing is lacking big time, why you would want it why you wouldnt want... but my question about it is mainly wrapped around my build: Using the AEB head on an 06a block and trying to trying to sourse and price out everthing i will need for the Head / Valvetrain. I have a used set of stock OE cams that came out of another AEB head that i just purchase... AND i was getting ready to purchase a set of hydraulic lifters and the Cam chain and tensioner... That's when i realized i can get the tensioner with or without VVT... As i started digging into the research on this subject it's appearing that i can build my setup with or without VVT ... i.e. go with a tension with or without VVT - Plus as i am researching i read where the early model AEB engine codes are setup without VVT and the intake cams on a Non-VVT setup are different that the intake cams on a VVT setup. My car is ad AMU 2002 setup and so i think it has VVT but not.....

Ok so you can see where i am going with this, i do have a lot to learn but am hoping that someone can kind of simplifly an answer: Should i build my setup based on VVT or NON-VVT? Will the AEB set of cams (intake and exhaust) work with a VVT setup if that's how i should go or do i need to change the intake cam for that?

Any info anyone has to offer on this subject i would definitly appreciate

thanks
Trey


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Yes, OEM bolts will hold 500hp. As for VVT, the non VVT tensioner is cheaper, and the hard part about adding VVT is modifying/adding to the existing harness. The benefits are that it can be tuned to help with spool very slightly, but it's design intent was for emissions. It's not worth adding IMO, but I hate wiring and messing with harnesses.


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

20v master said:


> Yes, OEM bolts will hold 500hp. As for VVT, the non VVT tensioner is cheaper, and the hard part about adding VVT is modifying/adding to the existing harness. The benefits are that it can be tuned to help with spool very slightly, but it's design intent was for emissions. It's not worth adding IMO, but I hate wiring and messing with harnesses.


Yep you've convinced me. Seeing that my car was originally setup as Non-VVT, I will stick with the same setup, don't want to deal with harness rewiring.

Ok I've make a bit of progress and will try to upload pics to show my progress along the way. but so far where I am with this build... I picked up the block from the machine shop just before Thanksgiving. Had them install all internals. and so now it's sitting in my garage on the engine stand and working on completing the install of all the bottom end: oil pump, baffle, pan etc. Once I get that part done I will start on the top end. 

I went with ARP main studs rather than bolt, and have decided to go with ARP Head studs rather than the stretch bolts. 

Again, I want to make sure I do this the right way the first time so I welcome any and all suggestions or recommendations.


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## MCPaudiTT (Nov 26, 2006)

tfifeco said:


> Had them install all internals. and so now it's sitting in my garage on the engine stand and working on completing the install of all the bottom end: oil pump, baffle, pan etc. .


What engine stand are you using? Are you happy with it? Can you post pix with the engine on it? Any suggestions/reservations/recommendations?


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

MCPaudiTT said:


> What engine stand are you using? Are you happy with it? Can you post pix with the engine on it? Any suggestions/reservations/recommendations?


The engine stand I am using is a cheapo I got from Harbor Freight, for like $45 and no not very happy with it, but I knew was I was getting so I am not too worried. if I were to recommend something I would recommend the 1 ton stand, I think they are like about $129 or so. the stand I have says it supports 750lbs but honestly I wouldn't load that much on it, not even close. I lifted My block with all internals off the ground by myself to set it up on blocks to be able to bolt to stand, so the weight cant be more than a couple hundred pounds at most. When I finally got it bolted up, the stand actually bounces a bit from the weight, as if its loaded up already... But again I knew what I was getting ... a $45 cheapo, didn't want to spend any more than that when I got it. 

I will see if I can post a few pics. currently I have all of my pics out on the icloud but looking for a better hosting spot for pics to post singles. I can post the link to the entire share but you will have to scroll through all the images to find the ones with stand


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

MCPaudiTT said:


> What engine stand are you using? Are you happy with it? Can you post pix with the engine on it? Any suggestions/reservations/recommendations?


Ok here's a gallery of a few pics in the icloud. Let me know if you can see them

https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#AC5n8hH4PAiAl


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## MCPaudiTT (Nov 26, 2006)

tfifeco said:


> Ok here's a gallery of a few pics in the icloud. Let me know if you can see them
> 
> https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#AC5n8hH4PAiAl


Yep, could view those fine. Thanks!


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

*Camshaft question`*

Ok a little bit of update. I should be receiving the head ARP studs this week as well as the gasket kit for the head. I am also trying to source out everything I need to get the head completed. So this brings me to some questions about the camshafts. Honestly, I would really like to get the Performance street Camshaft set from IE which would pretty much give me what I am looking for but the set is $750 and I just cant drop that much on a set of Cams just yet. So I have decided to complete my build with a stock set of cams and new hydraulic lifters. So this brings me to my question

first, so you know I have the 06A block from engine code ATC. and am using the large port AEB head. the AEB head comes off of the older 058 block ... and I think the Camshafts are a little different from what I have researched between the 058 and the 06A block. Either just the intake cam is different or both, not sue. So my question is, if I have a set of camshafts (both intake and exhaust) from another AEB head and swap out only the Intake camshaft with another from engine code ATC (06A block) would that get me what I need in terms of camshafts? Again, I plan to complete the build with OE camshafts for now, and maybe change them out for the IE performance Cams later as more $$$ come available. can anyone help me here with what set of OEM camshafts will work for me. (btw, I found a used intake camshaft from an ATC engine code for pretty cheap) 

thanks in advance
Trey


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

ok after re-reading this I don't think I was totally clear in my question... so here it goes again: If I have an Exhaust camshaft from an AEB head, and get an intake camshaft from engine code ATC, will that work for what I would need? I am currently driving my car and trying to get the new build completed without pulling anything off of my car, which is forcing my to get a another set of cams 

thanks again


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

Making progress: Got head installed, bottom end is pretty much done, except for the front main seal, once i get seal done i can seal and torque oil pan. 

So now, i am just saving $$$ to get all of the timing components as well as cams, lifters, etc. 
I think i have pretty much decided on the IE Street Cams IE item # IECVA2 unless someone has a better suggestion????

I've got my turbo setup on its way, should be here monday. Went with the GT2871R with the large flow JBS exhaust manifold, i know not the greatest i can do but got it used at a great price, about all i could afford right now if i want to get this build completed anytime soon. But it should get me to about 400hp. I will be going with the Siemens 680cc injectors.

I have more pics showing progress i will upload to the cloud shortly here: https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#AC5n8hH4PAiAl 

I am now trying to do some research on what Tune i should go with. Any suggestions i would appreciate. 

So here's a little bit of history of some of the things i have done to the car, that might help decide what direction to take: long story short - Way back when before i started doing a lot of work myselft when i first bought it (didnt know much at alll about VW/Audi) I had a local VW/Audi, amongst otherthings, do a United Motorsports tune, with immobilizor delete, then later do a Wideband O2 Conversion and a different ECU that was shipped off to UM for a bench flashed. Not sure what brand harness he used and not exactly sure which wideband ECU he got ... I think it was out of an 04 Golf/R32 but not sure... as i said i used this shop primarily until i realized i could do a lot of this **** myself, he really didnt devulge a whole lot of info about what he did, his explanations were a lot fluff, which is why i dont go to him anymore... When it was all said and done i have probably over $700 invested in UM tunes alone ... I have already contacted UM about retuning my ECU for my new build ... but they're not giving me a break due past business and telling me i am looking at another $900 or more for a custom tune for my setup.... SOOOOOOOOO i am considering other options.

I still may use UM to retune but am also looking at Unitronic i called them today. 

I say all of this for a few main qestions:

1. Other than UM or Unitronic what do you guys suggest? 

2. if i go with anything other than UM i am thinking about getting yet another ECU and not using the one i have now - i dont want to overwrite their tune - so if i look at getting another ECU which one should i get? Unitronic said the easiest for them to flash is the Bosch ME7.5.5 are all ECUs with ME7.5.5 the same? or do i need to look for an Audi TT 6speed specific ECU with that software?

Any suggestions would be much appreciated


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## MCPaudiTT (Nov 26, 2006)

I would do Maestro from Eurodyne. It will let YOU endlessly tweak the tune for your car, free of charge. Make a hardware change, you have full access to the ECU to make the appropriate software change. The "downside" is you need to know what to do to tune it, but I think the support is there to get you up to speed. There are a wide array of ECUs you can use with Maestro, you can even have them supply it with the cable/software.

http://www.eurodyne.ca/shop/volkswagen/stage-3-maestro-tuning-suite-awp/

Their website isn't he greatest, but I think there are a number of threads/users on this site as well.


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

MCPaudiTT said:


> I would do Maestro from Eurodyne. It will let YOU endlessly tweak the tune for your car, free of charge. Make a hardware change, you have full access to the ECU to make the appropriate software change. The "downside" is you need to know what to do to tune it, but I think the support is there to get you up to speed. There are a wide array of ECUs you can use with Maestro, you can even have them supply it with the cable/software.
> 
> http://www.eurodyne.ca/shop/volkswagen/stage-3-maestro-tuning-suite-awp/
> 
> Their website isn't he greatest, but I think there are a number of threads/users on this site as well.


Hey MCPi, 

Thanks for the info. i thought about Maestro, but thought i read in a thread a while back that this software is primarily for mostly stock cars.... i dont know maybe i misread or misunderstood what i read. But if it will let me tune and tweak with unlimited number of retunes to get everything set the way i want then that does sound appealing. BUt you are right, their website isnt the greatest.... The site says you can retune an unlimited number of times on their Base files for Stage 1, 2, 3 or Custom - but it dosent describe each stage... So i guess i will need to call them to get a better understanding.

thanks again for the info


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

My two cents based on my software experiences:

Unitronic- skip this. As a matter of fact skip all "one size fits all" tunes. I had their 870cc file and I think we went through 10 re-flashes - each one wastes an entire day of your time waiting for their slow response. My car never ran well with this software.

Maestro - Maestro opens many maps for us end users to adjust fueling, timing & airflow. It is for any level of 1.8T tuning. It's probably the best software for the DIY guy to tune his car with. You just have to remember that Bosch ME7 is complicated- what you change in one map has to be changed in another. Sometimes when you change things and you really think you understand the concept- you flash the car and it does the opposite of what you want. There is a learning curve here and it requires time, patience and self education. Advice from helpful forum members will be required as well.


Right now I'm working with Gonzo to tune my car for the spring. I currently own Maestro and just find that I don't want to invest the time (I've tuned it for two different setups on my car in the past- I'm burnt out and my job is more time consuming now). You can talk to a variety of tuners on this forum that will work on custom tunes for you. This will require time on your part for logging and reflashing the car, however, the idea is to take advantage of the knowledge that someone else has instead of learning yourself from the ground up.

Remember that your injector choice is equally if not more important than your tuning solution. Injectors are really going to determine how the car runs at idle, part throttle and a little bit of WOT. For example my ID1000's were easy to tune. I pretty much had to do no work at all and the car was drive-able. My Bosch 2200's and USRT 1200's on the other hand require a lot of time invested to get them to run correctly. Talk to your tuner for an injector recommendation- don't just buy 870's because some guy on the forum said he runs them on the same setup.


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

Doooglasss said:


> My two cents based on my software experiences:
> 
> Unitronic- skip this. As a matter of fact skip all "one size fits all" tunes. I had their 870cc file and I think we went through 10 re-flashes - each one wastes an entire day of your time waiting for their slow response. My car never ran well with this software.
> 
> ...


Hey Doug,

Yeah i do see the flip side of using Maestro ... not sure if i will have the time to devote to learning this product to the level i need in order to get my car tweaked .... 

i have kind of landed on the Siemens 680cc injectors... I know they're not huge but from my research they are an appropriate size for my turbo and build. But from a tuning stand point i have no idea if they are good, bad, or ugly, Your thoughts to that?

If i stay away from the typical One size fits all tunes.. i.e. Unitronic and i am assuming UM and APR fit in that category, and i stay away from Maestro due to its complexities.......... What else is there? apart from the expensive Engine management Systems


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

*Add Pics*

Got pics added to the cloud. Pics aren't really in order of progress... Sorry

https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#AC5n8hH4PAiAl


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

*Updates*

Just received and installed my Racing Axles by www.raxles.com

Just ordered the Adjustable camber plate for the PSS9s coilovers, so got them removed and just waiting for them to arrive ... should be here tomorrow. 
I went with these from ground control: http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=653/CA=195

pics are located here in the cloud, sorry if getting to the pics in the cloud is a pain, just the easiest way for me to host them right now.
http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=653/CA=195


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## velocitychris (Jul 16, 2011)

The pics are great and for me they will be very helpful. I have the 06A Stroker rebuild from IE that will hopefully be going back into the car in about a month (currently building a garage so I can work on the car). Everything you are doing and taking pics is great for me as this is my first build and learning all the way.


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

velocitychris said:


> The pics are great and for me they will be very helpful. I have the 06A Stroker rebuild from IE that will hopefully be going back into the car in about a month (currently building a garage so I can work on the car). Everything you are doing and taking pics is great for me as this is my first build and learning all the way.


Chris, I just ran across a pic of your new garage.... that's awesome dude :thumbup: I didn't go nearly that far with mine. I have an attached garage that I recently added insulation in attic, attic vent and ran a 10" duct and framed it out so I could run a Portable A/C and heater unit.... So yes having a garage that is somewhat climate controlled is all the difference when working on projects. Are you waiting to get the garage finished before you finish the build on your car?


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

Ok tell me if you guys think im nuts... 

I have the bilstein pss9's i am removing the large nut/ring on the rear springs that allows for ride height adjustmnets... So essentially i will not be able to raise height and it will get close to another 3/8 to 1/2 lower... But theres a lot more play in the spacer sleeve in the springs.. Pics have been uploaded to icloud.

https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#AC5n8hH4PAiAl

Has anyone done this? To get a little lower?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

It's not a problem Trey, you can run without the adjuster nut. Depending on the tires I run in the back, I run with or without that nut installed. :beer:


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> It's not a problem Trey, you can run without the adjuster nut. Depending on the tires I run in the back, I run with or without that nut installed. :beer:


Thanks Max, i just read your entire thread "Let's Talks TT Suspensions" now after reading that i think if i go much lower i will have to make some adjustments so i dont sacrifice handling.

Ok i just received the turbo, baught it used for a fellow vortexer, it's the GT2871R from the Eliminator setup by ATP Turbo but with an upgraded JBS high flow Exhaust Manifold and new SS Coolant lines... Check out the pics: https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#AC5n8hH4PAiAl

And now my Ground Control Adjustable camber plates just arrived... Feels like christmas all over again. Guess what i will be doing today after work :laugh:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Nice, make sure you Teflon coat the bearings surfaces and tape/insulate the metal cup very well before installing the GC camber plates. Hopefully, doing this from the start, will prevent the horror stories for you. :beer:


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Nice, make sure you Teflon coat the bearings surfaces and tape/insulate the metal cup very well before installing the GC camber plates. Hopefully, doing this from the start, will prevent the horror stories for you. :beer:


WOW, im glad i stopped and read this ... am literally in the process of getting the first on installed. and YUP i didn't tape or teflon anything. Ok so why tape or insulate? We talking about electrical grounding issues? or something or issues?


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Nice, make sure you Teflon coat the bearings surfaces and tape/insulate the metal cup very well before installing the GC camber plates. Hopefully, doing this from the start, will prevent the horror stories for you. :beer:


ok also when you say teflon coat the bearing... what exactly do you mean.. becuase the be bearings sit counterset inside the perch and a metal spacer sits ontop of that. and they are all greased up pretty well already... so i am not quite following when you Teflon the bearing

thanks for the help


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

The assembly can be taken apart to expose and service the bearings. There are some good lubricant coatings that can be applied to prevent long term noise (my favorite is Molubdenum disulfide but Teflon is readily available). 

I also strongly suggest wrapping the top inner cup with some heavy duty plastic tape to prevent it from moving. A lot of users have given up and removed their GC plates because they have become unbearably noisy over time. IMO, it's the nature of the design since the floating top cup is metal and can move as there is not the rubber friction (between the metal cup and strut tower) like its the case with OEM and other designs. 

Pic below shows what I mean by wrapping the upper cup with some insulating tape. I would make a thick layer of tape and press fit the cup in. The tolerances are for a slip fit and its a bit or miss how tightly they fit (unwrapped) in your strut tower (which is why it's a hit or miss to develop the dreaded noise).


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> The assembly can be taken apart to expose and service the bearings. There are some good lubricant coatings that can be applied to prevent long term noise (my favorite is Molubdenum disulfide but Teflon is readily available).
> 
> I also strongly suggest wrapping the top inner cup with some heavy duty plastic tape to prevent it from moving. A lot of users have given up and removed their GC plates because they have become unbearably noisy over time. IMO, it's the nature of the design since the floating top cup is metal and can move as there is not the rubber friction (between the metal cup and strut tower) like its the case with OEM and other designs.
> 
> Pic below shows what I mean by wrapping the upper cup with some insulating tape. I would make a thick layer of tape and press fit the cup in. The tolerances are for a slip fit and its a bit or miss how tightly they fit (unwrapped) in your strut tower (which is why it's a hit or miss to develop the dreaded noise).


Ok that's what i kind of thought but wasnt totally sure.... Well, i didnt have any teflon or Molubdenum sitting on my shelf in garage and didnt wrap the cup with tape... will probably redo that a little later, either when i get my 17x9 wheels or if it starts making noise...

Anyway got some pics, nice stance i am now about as low as i can go with these tires 18's without rubbing. current got the back on ramps to reset the rear links so that they are not preloaded on the rear swaybar.

check the pics out, will be uploading some better shots of the stance sometime today https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#AC5n8hH4PAiAl


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

Ok one more thing for now... i am going to take the car in to get it aligned sometime this week. seeing that i am quite a bit lower than stock is there an optimum camber and toe setting i should be targetting for mainly street daily driver use? I have read on here where its reommended to run a slight toe in like 1/32 for the rear tires.. would that be the same for the front as well? or does that logic only apply to track and Autocross? Also, would i want target the same Neg. Camber front and back? like around -1 deg? 

I am taking to car to a shop that has a lot of experience with these types of alignments ... Was just wondering what you guys recommended

thanks
Trey


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

You want to aim for:

*Front
*zero toe
-2.5 to -3.0 camber
Maximum caster you can afford (your plates dependently adjusts both parameters).

*Rear*
1/16" toe in
-1.5 camber


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

Ok Well looks like i have decided on the Maestro Tune. I found a shop in my area who's a dealer/distributor and will help get me started with the initial base flash and any additional subsequent flashes. Based on the approach of my overall build and goals the Maestro seems the best fit. 

On a side note/question, I have read on several threads here that many people do not consider the UM - United Motorsports tune a good tune at all for our cars. I am just curious why? what about it makes it not a good tune? here's why I ask, When i first bought my car a couple years ago i knew nothing about the TT, and found a VW/Audi shop in my area that seems reputable, the owner was nice and seems knowledgable. But over time i discovered things i didnt like about the way he did business so i stopped using him. One of many things i found was that he would steer poeple in a direction that was more beneficial to his business not necessarily beneficial to the car. One of those things was about Tuning. I found him because i wanted to get an APR tune on a mostly stock TT but with upgrade air intake and exhaust. HE HIGHLY recommended United Motorsports tune over APR and offered what seemed to me to be some compelling reasons why. But he was knowledgable about these car not me so i took his recommendation. And honestly havent had an issue or problem with my car, But i have no was of knowing if what i have is Good, Bad or Ugly compared to other tunes... I have no way of comparing to an APR tune becuase i dont have access to that.... SO, since i have had enough people say they either have never heard of UM Auto Tune or Say it is not a good tune for these car, that there has to be some truth to that. I just genuinely want to understand, what about it makes it NOT GOOD. 

thanks


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

How much boost does it run? What is the redline? What does the ignition timing at WOT look like? What is idle and part throttle like? There are plenty of dynos and logs from APR, GIAC, Unitronics, and other chips floating around in the 1.8T forum. If you're happy with it, that's all that matters really unless it's not meeting your performance goals.


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

20v master said:


> How much boost does it run? What is the redline? What does the ignition timing at WOT look like? What is idle and part throttle like? There are plenty of dynos and logs from APR, GIAC, Unitronics, and other chips floating around in the 1.8T forum. If you're happy with it, that's all that matters really unless it's not meeting your performance goals.


Well i havent had my car dyno'd so i cant fully answer all of these questions to exact numbers. but, 

-I know i am getting 24lbs of boost. Thats what it was set to when tuned and that's what my gauge reads at peak. 
-Idle sits at 900-1000rpm.
-What is part throttle like? I am not sure how to answer that 
-It's Tuned with a 7200 rev limiter, not sure if that's what you mean by "What is redline" 
-What does the ignition timing at WOT look like? I dont know

Sure i can get it dyno'd and try and compare to various logs from other setups. If i were happy and satisfied with everthing then i probably wouldnt be doing this build :laugh: But all of this doesnt really answer my question. I am just wondering why so many people have negative responses to the UM tune ... i have read more than just one or two of these types of comments so i am just wondering if there's something about the UM tune that i am unaware of?

thanks for the reply


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

Well, here's what i just ordered, should be here within a week:

-Maestro customer tune package ... $800
-Siemen's Deka 630cc Injectors
-4bar FPR
-Madmax DV
-all remaining gaskets for the turbo and manifold (GT2871 and JBS high flow mani)

So here's my approach. I really need to break this up into phases to ease my worries of this used turbo, i dont want to be working on getting the entire build complete six months from now or longer and not know how this used turbo pans out. Don't want to have to worry about how or where to get a retune while my car is disabled trying to do the complete engine swap and everything envolved in that ... that ive never done before...

So here's first phase: do the turbo/manifold swap, injectors, DV and install base file of the Maestro tune and go through the various flash updates to tweak for optimum perform with that setup. The local company i have ordered the Maestro through will help me with the intial base flash and all reflashed to get the car running correct and will show/teach me how to dig into Maestro and start learning how to do these retunes myself. This local company is a new shop just starting out specializing in WV/Audi, Single owner company that we will actually work on the swap together to get it all completed, and plan out for the engine swap

then once that is done, the second phase will depending on the results i see with that turbo setup, and ultimately play a role in deciding what turbo setup i should land on. Once i get everything built out on the motor with all new parts, not robbing from my existing setup, we will swap in that motor, then do addtional reflashes and retweak that setup... THis way i can be sure the used turbo and Maestro are tweaked and working properly before trying to do the complete engine swap...

Even though it may cost me a little more by doing this in phases, This i feel good about ... But i am all ears for any suggestions or tricks of the trade i should be thinking about or planning on i would appreciate it...

-Trey


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

tfifeco said:


> Well, here's what i just ordered, should be here within a week:
> 
> -Maestro customer tune package ... $800
> -Siemen's Deka 630cc Injectors
> ...


Trey -- what pump are you using to support that power and fuel pressure? If you haven't upgraded the in-tank unit, we've been recommending the Deatschwerks in-tank unit available from 034Motorsports. We have one installed in our quattro project car and found it to be surprisingly easy to install. Once in, you can shoot for very big power numbers without ever again touching your fuel system.


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

[email protected] said:


> Trey -- what pump are you using to support that power and fuel pressure? If you haven't upgraded the in-tank unit, we've been recommending the Deatschwerks in-tank unit available from 034Motorsports. We have one installed in our quattro project car and found it to be surprisingly easy to install. Once in, you can shoot for very big power numbers without ever again touching your fuel system.


Well Doug you just answered a big question that I had about the the stock fuel pump... I Wasn't sure if I would need to change fuel pump now or later when I go even bigger. Please pm me with some info on that fuel pump.. or just shoot a link to it and I will look into upgrading

thanks for the info
-Trey


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

Trey --

Here's your link: http://store.034motorsport.com/high...ail&utm_term=0_eef73e7243-1688472ae9-66450573

I posted about the intallation process in our project thread, but it went so fast that I actually missed the chance to get decent pictures. I was at ForceFed Engineering to dyno another car & they had it in before I knew it. After installation we removed the big, noisy inline "FrankenPump" we sell. No need for that anymore. 600bhp at 30psi of boost. Not too shabby for a stock-fitment product. It's such a good product that I'm phasing our our own pump and steering customers over to 034 instead.

I'm really curious to see your tuning process with Maestro. Will you use a MAF sensor?


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

Doug - thanks for the link, found it and will be ordering it soon.

Well the Maestro 7 just arrived, pic is in the cloud - so looks like we will be swapping out turbo, injectors and registering maestro flashing base file and tuning specifics this weekend, probably saturday. 

I will be taking pics of the whole process and posting them on the cloud here: https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#AC5n8hH4PAiAl


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

*K04 Turbo swap*

Well after two full days we finally got the turbo and manifold out and the replacement in position. the JBS manifold is bolted up, just need to double check nuts for tightness, Still working on getting all the line reconnected. Missing one fitting for the oil return line though, so once everything gets bolted back up we will be at a standstill until that fitting gets here. Didn't realize it until after we pulled the K04 that the GT2871 oil return line was not a bango fitting like the K04. Need the 12mm bango to 4an adapter fitting at the block to get that last line reconnected.

all pics of the K04 swap can be found here in the icloud: https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#AC59UlCqs1lkh

Man what a job this is, I knew it is very tight and not much space back there behind the engine on a TT 225Q but wow... IT IS TIGHT, probably would have been easier to just pull the damn motor ... And after getting the K04 and stock manifold out... and seating the replacement in position we found another timing killing road block that we didn't realize was there. Apparently this isn't the same or a problem on the TT 180s but the bottom end of the turbine housing on the K04 turbo is bolted to a bracket that sits just above the diff and routes down, under turbo and bolts to the block. the way this bracket is designed for the K04 doesn't allow the GT2871 to sit low enough to bolt properly to the JBS manifold. The 2871 housing is considerably larger so ... That bracket has to come out PERIOD, no way to get it fitted without taking that bracket out, and there was no way to get to the bolts that fasten that bracket to the block without pulling the motor, so seeing that we were past the point of no return we had no choice put to cut that bracket out. So made another run to Lowes (I think that was our 5th run to something we needed :laugh: ) to pickup a dremel and a SS cutting bit, made sure all ports were blocked off with cloth and with only about an inch space between the turbo bracket we were somehow able to squeeze our arms down to the bracket, with a small dremel and start cutting... after about 45 minutes and several breaks to rest our arms we finally got the bracket cut. 

So now that's done, we can continue getting everything bolted up properly today. Also with the new 630cc injectors installed and the 4bar FPR installed, all we will be waiting on is one damn adapter fitting that does not exist anywhere in Houston, TX.. gotta order it overnight.. the fitting costs less than $5 shipping is $20 ---- So we will be at a standstill waiting on a $5 fitting :banghead: 

The person helping me with the install and the Maestro Tune has a startup VW/Audi shop, AU - Audi Underground, awesome guy - he will be writing the base file and tuning the ECU once we get everything bolted and ready for that last connector, so we are not at a complete stand still. With what looks to be the hardest part completed and other duties calling our time in other areas on Tuesday, looks like it will be sometime Wednesday before we can get the car started up and road test ... 

Should have more pics posted up today. If all goes well today everything should be bolted up and waiting on that fitting


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Yeah, it's pretty much always easier to pull the motor and trans. Now you know. The thought of trying to get the banjo bolts started into the turbo while sitting on your knees on the intake manifold with an exhaust manifold in place makes me angry.


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

20v master said:


> Yeah, it's pretty much always easier to pull the motor and trans. Now you know. The thought of trying to get the banjo bolts started into the turbo while sitting on your knees on the intake manifold with an exhaust manifold in place makes me angry.


Yup, now i know, but honestly everything is pretty much a learning experience for so i really dont mind the extra effort... i now know and understand more than i did before the swap... no amount of research and reading can replace what i just went through.

So now, we are almost done. Turbo/mandifold is in, everything is reconnected - now its time to get the Maestro tune. We will be doing that tomorrow and getting the car fired up and road testing, data logging, reflashing, etc. The Fun Part :laugh: Only thing i am waiting on now is the madmax DV, but the Forge DV should work in the meantime. Hopefully Max can get that sucker out to me sometime next week.

Check out some of the pics:
https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#AC59UlCqs1lkh
Trying to get that turbo fitted in we actually had to use a sawzall in the engine bay to cut out the hard pipe to the heater core. we replaced a small section of hard pipe, that was in the way not allowing the turbo to fit properly, with flex heater hose. Crazy, i know but it worked.


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

Any updates on this one?


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

*here's an update*

Everything went crash and burn........ Well everything except the car.

While in the middle of trying to figure out what went wrong with the install... Turbo removed from car, sent back to Garrett for a rebuild... (this was end of Feb beginning of March 2015) ... The wife of 25 years left and filed for divorce. Completely turned my world upside down and inside out. Not gonna get into too much of the gory details of it .. All I can say is ive been strapped financially, due to keeping the house and getting stuck with debt she walk away from. It's taken me over a year to finally get to a point where I can only beginning to think about when I will get started on this project again.

The Car has been sitting for a little over a year now. I just haven't had the money or time to try and complete what I had started. I sold the motor that I was getting rebuilt as a stroker (82.5mm pistons, FSI crank, etc.) and decided to kind of start over, take it slower, and do it right. There's one thing I've learned in all of this, there's no short cuts, and cheaper used parts end up costing more in the long run. I've put the car on blocks and started disassembling the front end getting ready to pull the existing motor. This go around, once I get the cash, I will be doing more research and making sure I get a complete rebuilt stroker motor including the head along with the build, may go with Integrated Engineering's short block setup ... Not sure yet, but I do know whatever I do, whoever I go with it will be from valve cover to oil pan build out. As far as the turbo setup... I have called and talked to the owner of Pagparts. this for sure will be a complete setup including whatever custom fab he has to do for the downpipe, it will be from intake hose to exhaust pipe with custom downpipe and everything in between using all vband where I can. Most likely will have Pagparts do that but still researching a bit... but I do know for absolutely certainty that before the new stroker motor goes in, EVERYTHING, that I can, will be bolted.

Also, to help with some of the funds I will need, I will be selling off parts that I don't need and wont use when finished... so keep checking here I will try and post updates as I get them..

Gonna be a long slow process ... But it will be done right this time


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## nbkkb7x (Jan 12, 2009)

Sorry to hear about your situation. I'm glad you are picking it back up. I would recommend going the pagparts route. Arnold can hook you up with a custom build. I got a ppg build waiting to go in my 225.  

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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

Thanks nbkkb7x, Yeah after I spoke with Arnold I really got a feeling about what he can do, when you talk to him you can tell he speaks from experience. He also confirmed using the Eurodyne Maestro tune is an excellent choice, as long as it can be tuned properly, he said he's used the exact setup he's recommending to me on a lot of his customer's TT's - been running for years without a problem. I bought the Maestro when I started the turbo upgrade. plus with all the other upgrades ive done on the car, so I've really got a lot in place. Now just need some $$$$$$ to get started AGAIN..


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

Tough situation but glad to hear you are moving forward!!!


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

*Thinking of parting out or selling as is*

Hey Guys, I am resurrecting this thread mainly because it has the most information about my car, and since my divorce March of 2015 I have not been able to do anything with this car, and don't see being able to get to anything on it anytime soon, I am thinking about either Parting it out or selling as is. 

to give a quick recap overview of where this car is … I bought this car sometime around the year 2012, since I bought it I did a ton of upgrades, most of these upgrades should be listed throughout this thread..., but to list a few, ECU is tuned, 5 wire 02 Sensor, Complete 42DD 3" exhaust, complete Bilstein PSS9 Coilovers and sleeved the front control arms and all poly bushings, 44DD Air intake, and more, with all of these upgrades, this car drove and handled like a dream. The last upgrade I tried (Turbo Upgrade) went sour and rendered the car undrivable, Then the wife left, AND THAT WAS IT. Since then ive had no money or time to get this car back running again.. And now not only have I lost all money and time to put to this car, ive lost interest as well. 

If anyone is interested in picking up where I left off, PM me, we can trade phone number and I can give a full run down on the current condition/position of this car. Probably quicker and easier to discuss full details over phone call, just too much to type.


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## Whamm91 (Aug 15, 2018)

I’m interested currently building a 225


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## tfifeco (Aug 4, 2014)

Whamm91 I see you found my current Sales Thread.. PM me for anything you need, I don't have everything listed yet, so may likely still have what you are looking for
thanks


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