# Air Conditioner Stopped (Air Conditioner Shutoff Codes Document Attached)



## guybguy (Jul 21, 2005)

Yesterday the temperature in Cincinnati was 96 - the car said it was 108. I started the car and the air conditioning was fine, then I got hot air after a few minutes. Was doing city driving. I was out of the car for five minutes, and when I re-started it the air worked fine again - then started blowing hot air after a few minutes. A storm blew up, dropping the temperature. I restarted the car and the air worked fine and continued to, and has ever since. 
While it seems logical that the a/c might shut off to avoid over heating, it is also very much at odds with the design imperative of traveling at high speeds in high temperatures without missing a beat. 
Anyone else experienced this or have any insights? 
Thanks


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## DynomiteTT (Jan 10, 2007)

My TT is currently doing this. It was working on and off this week and its been 105+ all week. Its going to the shop tomorrow. I'm guessing its the compressor. but hoping its just a leak. As for the Phaeton it's still going strong.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

I doubt it's the outside temperature that's the problem, as TT mentioned it's been hotter than hell here for over a week (around 42C every day, according to the car) and the a/c in the Phaeton hasn't missed a beat. I've been using that during the day rather than the 944 because of the cooled seats which are by far the most amazing feature of the car (well, except for the ride, the 18-way seats, the boot lid struts, the double battery arrangement, the sun roof, the red dash lights at night, the smoothness of the gear shifts and the seamless power of the engine, other than those they're the most amazing).


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## sinhamn (Aug 7, 2007)

guybguy said:


> Yesterday the temperature in Cincinnati was 96 - the car said it was 108. I started the car and the air conditioning was fine, then I got hot air after a few minutes. Was doing city driving. I was out of the car for five minutes, and when I re-started it the air worked fine again - then started blowing hot air after a few minutes. A storm blew up, dropping the temperature. I restarted the car and the air worked fine and continued to, and has ever since.
> While it seems logical that the a/c might shut off to avoid over heating, it is also very much at odds with the design imperative of traveling at high speeds in high temperatures without missing a beat.
> Anyone else experienced this or have any insights?
> Thanks


 chekc if there is aleak. 
i had that problem and finally it got fixed once the freezent leak was fixed


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## remrem (Jan 20, 2008)

As you probably know, when the the left battery is not fully charged, or when it is starting to get old and not as stong as it once was, the Phaeton (as designed) may shut down various systems when it becomes overburdened. Just a guess, but in the extreme heat perhaps your battery reached its limits and temporarily shut down your a/c. 

I'm sure there are many other possible explanations for your issue, but unless you are 100% sure of your left battery condition, it's cheap and easy to get it tested. If by chance the left battery needs to be replaced, this is definitely a time where it is recommended not to cut corners. In other words, buy the (expensive) VW factory battery and not an aftermarket one, and make sure it has the correct VW part number. 

Good luck, and please let us know what happens. 

Regards, 
Ron M.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Did you get to the bottom of this problem??? Mine's done it twice today.


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## *fill-up* (Jul 15, 2010)

I have a similar problem to yours, when the temp gets over 90 degrees my a/c starts working alot weaker and seems to be blowing out cold air, but not as cold as it is when it is 85 or so degrees outside. Might just need a recharge


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

I think there's more to it than that, unfortunately. As Ron suggests, my suspicion is falling on a battery issue, although since it has two new batteries, I think it's more likely the battery controller. The last couple of weeks, the radio hasn't been staying on and the wing mirror has been creeping outwards. When the air stops, there's a change in the fan level and a musty smell.


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## 357Sig (Oct 9, 2008)

invisiblewave said:


> ...the cooled seats which are by far the most amazing feature of the car (well, except for the ride, the 18-way seats, the boot lid struts, the double battery arrangement, the sun roof, the red dash lights at night, the smoothness of the gear shifts and the seamless power of the engine, other than those they're the most amazing).


Dude, you nailed it right there....


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## Aren Jay (Jun 9, 2009)

Wasn't the Phaeton supposed to be able to maintain 20C inside the car when it is 50C outside and the car is driving at 300KPH all day or some such thing?

My Marauder has an AC problem too, everytime I accelerate I get a garbage dump kind of sickly smell for a few seconds. Keeps reminding me why I hated going to the garbage dump when I was little (to drop stuff off, mostly dog pooh). Fond memories of my Dad yelling at the garbage pickers not to open these bags. Which they undoubtedly opened as soon as we left, always worth a laugh.

When you say musty do you mean garbage like or musty, like when you leave your sunroof open and it rains?


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## Auzivision (Apr 19, 2007)

Amazing, I just had this exact same experience last night with my wife in the car going to dinner. I tried about every different button combination possible and nothing worked. Then I pulled over, stopped the engine and restartedand it start working again and did for the rest of the night.

Rewind three weeks and I had the exact same problem, but couldn’t get it to go away. I scheduled a repair appointment, but it worked flawlessly all the way to the VW dealership… so I canceled my appointment and drove home.

That fact that it’s intermittent makes me wonder how difficult it will be to troubleshoot. Maybe a trouble code will be stored. I have a vag com dongle I’ve never used, but now might be time to learn.

Funny, even my wife suggested it must be something to do with the electronics… since stopping/starting the engine fixes it. I guess she’s been hanging around me too much… LOL 

I guess it's time to schedule another appointment and stick to it this time.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

I'm just about to go and plug in the VAGCOM, I'll let you know if it says anything. The only thing I changed yesterday, after which it hasn't happened again, is the Automatic Recirculation option on the Climate->Other Options menu. I figured recirculation would help when it's so ferociously hot outside, it was 104 yesterday, and it definitely sounds/feels like something the car is doing deliberately for whatever reason.


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## Jxander (Aug 5, 2008)

Since everyone seems to experience this when temps are extraordinarily high, I would suggest focusing on the high pressure switch in the AC system. When ambient temps are high, head pressure on the AC system will also be up. The switch could be faulty and "shut down" the sytem at too low a temp or the unit could have been overcharged and when temps get too hot, high side pressure increases above the safety point and the switch correctly shuts the system down. I believe the Phaeton compressor is clutchless and pressures are regulated by an electromechanical bypass valve. So if high pressure switch, says no cooling, the valve just opens and the compressor turns freely.

Have any of you that are experiencing this had your "freon" topped off?

Note to Auzivision: I think some of the VW dealers have a place in their shops for your wife and her diagnostic skills.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

VAGCOM shows 2 faults on mine.

01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (v71) 014 - Defective - Intermittent
00445 - Loss of Refrigerant 000 - intermittent

Also, central electric intervention load management fault, which might explain the other gremlins.


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## Jxander (Aug 5, 2008)

There should be a low pressure switch also. Since refrigerant appears low, that could be your AC cut-off problem. Possibly in high demand situations, with the compressor trying to work very hard, there just isn't enough refrigerant to do the job. I doubt the air flow flap would shut it down completely. You just wouldn't get air flow to some of the many Phaeton vents. I think one poster said he tried amually every vent and operational option to revive his unit but all everything was ineffective. 

VagCom noted low refrigerant on mine once. I brought it to the attention of my VW mechanic and he confirmed that the diagnosis was correct and added some. However, I only noticed a slight degradation in cooling performance.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Whatever the underlying cause, it's not something I can tackle myself. Hopefully if it's the flap motor the warranty will cover it, although I'm sure there'll be the usual diagnosis and refrigerant charges that won't be covered and will somehow manage to add up to significantly more than an acceptable contribution.... Just like healthcare "insurance"!


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## Jxander (Aug 5, 2008)

You're right on refrierant. I was charged for that even though under CPO. However, the flap motor should be a different story as you suggest. 
If you have the Phaeton "Self Study Programme 271" on the Climatronic system, take a look at page 60 where they discuss the pressure temperature switch. it states that "If the temperature or pressure signal fails, the cooling function is switched off." Note this is the signal from this switch not necessarily the switch itself, which could be in a failure mode if the pressure or temperature (press and temp I'm sure are directly related)is not right. 

i don't mess with mine much either and leave it to the "experts" at VW, but i do enjoy trying to figure out what might be wrong. I'm betting a refrigerant charge will fix your "shut-down " problem.
However, when you look at SSP 271 you are awed by the sophistication of our Climatronics system.


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## BltVWF (Oct 19, 2009)

Greetings!
My 2004 W12 blows warm air when the ambient temp above 80 degrees; then outside is below 80F, the AC blows ice-cold air. The AC has been re-charged three times, in 2007, 2009 and in June 2010, at 43k, 68 and 75000 miles respectively; in 2007 the leaking condenser seal was replaced (P/n 702). 

I am taking the car in this Tuesday. Last time they added the dye to the refrigerant but no leaks were found few weeks later.

Left battery and the controller both has been replaced two weeks ago (thanks to this forum for helping diagnose the issue), which stopped the infotainment reboot for awhile, however infotainment reboots returned as of yesterday with added TPMC system Fault...TPMC sensors and the TPMC controller were all replaced in 2009.

Thus, it does not seem the AC issue is related to the left battery and/or controller...

Eugene


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## Auzivision (Apr 19, 2007)

Happened twice again on Sunday. Both times, I pulled over and restarted the car and it worked fine for the rest of the drive. I was guessing some sort of pressure switch or low refrigerant.

My wife asked if I heard anything back on the forum and I can report back affirmative. 

Probably just schedule a service visit since I still have warranty, but someday I’d like to learn how to do this stuff for myself. A set of manifold gauges are not that expensive.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Mine is apparently an intermittently failing flap motor. I tried to tell him as much when I booked it in but he didn't want to listen, then yesterday evening he left a voicemail for me saying it just needed a recharge. I called him back this morning all ready to ask for his explanation of how the gas in a pressurized system could escape without a leak, and why the car had reported a problem with the flap motor, but the first thing he said was that they'd decided it was the flap motor. The Fidelity warranty will pay for the motor but not the recharge (as I expected), and he also went on to say that the brake fluid was very dirty so they're changing that as well. When I pick it up, I'll be wanting to know why they didn't spot the brake fluid issue when they serviced it a couple of weeks ago..... NB. This is not a rant, just a question.


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## Motorista (Oct 28, 2005)

Funny, I've been having these exact symptoms for the past month ...on my (very well used) 2002 Subaru Outback: the trigger seems a temperature above 88 or so. We checked the refrigerant and found it a few ounces low, but with no detectable leak. Yet, after a full recharge, it worked well for an afternoon, then back to the same pattern. I'm beginning to suspect a leak from the compressor since all hoses have been checked with UV light and no leak was found.
Stefano


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## BltVWF (Oct 19, 2009)

Update on my AC issue: the dealer determened the Infortaiment system was at fault, and it has been already replaced. Waiting for speaker replacement to see if it will fix the problem. This will be third infortaiment system for this car - the factory one was replaced in 2007. Looks like they only last for about 3 years, at least in my 2004....

Eugene


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## sgpdmd (Nov 28, 2009)

*Same Problem Here*

My phaeton does the same thing randomly. It has been in the shop for two months now with the " expert". They have changed the controller, compressor, high pressure switch and temp sensors. Still continues to have the problem. Did the infotainment switch really fix the issue? I don't see how this could be related. If it did, what dealership was it. Thanks


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## Jxander (Aug 5, 2008)

On first glance the infotainment unit does not appear to be related to AC operation. However, keep in mind most of the user-controlled functions of the climatronics system are via the infotainment system. So if it were flawed, I guess crazy problems in AC operation could occur. 

Eugene: Has the infotainment replacement permanently fixed the problem?


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## BltVWF (Oct 19, 2009)

Jxander,

Looks like it did. Yesterday drove to Dulles and back, and it was hot 93f - AC worked as expected.

Eugene


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## Stinky999 (Sep 14, 2006)

*Intermittant AC Failure*

guybguy,

Did you ever get your problem fixed? I see several other replies and potential solutions but I don't see anything from you. Just curious as I have started to have this same issue, quits working, stop and restart and it's fine. Already replaced left battery, no chnage, battery controller was replaced back in '07 or '08, so I assume that isn't the problem.

Thanks.
Roger


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Folks:

When diagnosing and attempting to repair any kind of problem encountered with equipment that has multiple complex electronic systems (translation = Phaeton), always remember to start with the simplest and easiest interventions first, and move from the simple and easy actions to the more complex and/or more difficult inquiries.

In the case of an air conditioner that is not delivering chilled air, I think the strategy ought to go like this:

*1)* Press 'CLIMATE' button on front information display, then press RESET button, then confirm selection (that you want to reset the CLIMATE functions). See if that clears the problem.

*2)* Shut off vehicle, let it cool down and stabilize (i.e. leave it alone overnight), start it up again and see if the problem persists.

*3)* If the problem persists, carry out a diagnostic scan and see what fault codes are present.

Reading the early responses to this thread kind of disheartens me - numerous different postulates are made (battery, too little refrigerant, too much refrigerant, button pressing, compressor problems, etc.). Although it is true that any one of these issues may have caused the problem, if we want to identify the cause of a problem quickly, efficiently, and economically, we need to follow a diagnostic and decision-making model that is rational. Generally speaking, this means carrying out the simplest diagnostic actions first, and from that, using a logic-based approach to identify "paths of influence" that could cause the problem.

Michael


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## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

PanEuropean said:


> Folks:
> 
> When diagnosing and attempting to repair any kind of problem encountered with equipment that has multiple complex electronic systems (translation = Phaeton), always remember to start with the simplest and easiest interventions first, and move from the simple and easy actions to the more complex and/or more difficult inquiries.
> 
> ...


Hi Michael,

sods law! 
I have just encountered the problem of not getting enough cold air from my 2006 V10. I have just now used the reset (thanks for the info, something again that I was unaware of)! I will report tomorrow if this has helped. 
I also know that the left hand battery is approaching the end of its life, and will be replaced after the Gearbox service. Again if resetting doe not cure the problem the replacement battery either will or will not! Failing that I will invest in a system recharge! 
Unfortunately I do not have access to a VAG COM so cannot readily check any fault codes (I refuse to use any program that relies on Windows).
Once again Michael thank you very much!

Stu


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## Kuwaity (Apr 2, 2004)

I have not read all the posts but the problem happened to me. I live in Kuwait and it is a hot country, when I say hot I mean +50C !

Last month the HVAC compressor stopped working during a hot day, the ambient temp was around 48C, tried many things to bring it back to life but I couldn't. After scanning the car with Vagcom I found that the refrigerant was low and the fault was NOT intermittent.

So I took the car to our (horrible!) VW agent and told the service advisor to add refrigerant to the system and replace the AC filters. Now the AC is fine but of course they broke the AC filter frames and fixed it with glue! After a long story they finally ordered new frame set for free.


Ahmad.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

EnglishPhaeton said:


> ...I also know that the left hand battery is approaching the end of its life...


Hi Stu:

Personally, I kind of discount the probability of the battery being the cause of the problem. Once you get the vehicle started and it has been running for more than a minute or so, try the RESET procedure. You will be doing this with 14 volts present on the vehicle electrical system (the alternator will be supplying the vehicle with power once the engine is up and running, and waiting for one minute after start will eliminate any variables introduced at power-up as the result of a 'possibly' poor condition battery).

If the reset doesn't clear the problem, and if the vehicle was 'cold' (i.e. had been parked overnight or similar) when it was started, then my next guess would be low refrigerant. This is where the diagnostic scan comes in handy, because the car will report a low refrigerant state.

There are other, more exotic possible causes - for example, if the hood (bonnet) is open, the radiator fans won't operate, and if the fans won't operate, generally the air conditioner won't either. It is also possible (but not probable) that the condenser (the air conditioning radiator in the front of the car) is blocked, or the evaporator (the air conditioning radiator within the HVAC assembly) is blocked, but those are not high-probability causes.

I suspect - I don't know for sure, but I _suspect _- that if the engine coolant temperature rises substantially above the norm (90° C, about 200°F), the car might shut down the air conditioning. This is because the engine coolant radiator is located behind the air conditioning radiator (the condenser), and if the engine coolant is overheating, providing air conditioning is a secondary priority - the highest priority is to get the engine coolant temperature down. But, I stress, this is a hypothesis about how the vehicle might work, not a fact.

Michael


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## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

PanEuropean said:


> Hi Stu:
> 
> Personally, I kind of discount the probability of the battery being the cause of the problem. Once you get the vehicle started and it has been running for more than a minute or so, try the RESET procedure.
> 
> ...


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## guybguy (Jul 21, 2005)

*Problem Identified*

Apparently the drain from the compressor was clogged. Water was accumulating, then freezing, which was responsible for the AC not cooling at that point. When the ice would melt, it would work again. 
Figured it out when I accelerated and heard water sloshing in passenger footwell. Was at dealership when it happened. We found water in cabin and they jumped right on it. 

This shortly after having the car in dealership for 10 weeks for water damage to electronics due to the dreaded clogged air intake plenum issue. 

VW is grossly remiss in not issuing a bulletin to have the three drainage issues part of regular service procedure.


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

Maybe your air intake plenum was not clogged after all !


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## guybguy (Jul 21, 2005)

Actually, it was. You can bet I have had the sunroof drains checked!


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## Stinky999 (Sep 14, 2006)

guybguy said:


> Apparently the drain from the compressor was clogged. Water was accumulating, then freezing, which was responsible for the AC not cooling at that point. When the ice would melt, it would work again.


Interesting. I still see water dripping out of the bottom of my car, so I'm not sure if that would be my problem or not. Also, when I shut the car off and restarted, I didn't wait long enough for any ice to melt, just an off then immediate restart, and the air was ice cold again.

I tried the reset a while back, before I changed the battery. That didn't help. I'll get a VAGCOM and see what that tells me.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

guybguy said:


> Apparently the drain from the compressor was clogged.


I think you mean the drain from the *evaporator*, which is the cold coil embedded in the HVAC system that cools the cabin air.

The explanation makes sense - if water accumulates in the evaporator area, it will freeze on the evaporator, and that will throw the operating pressures out of whack, and the system will shut down to protect itself.

Note that there are three different drain systems in the car - all of which have been discussed lately - so to avoid confusion, they are as follows:

*1) Air Intake Plenum Drain* - Under the hood, at the back of the engine, between the back of the engine and the base of the windshield. This is the largest and most easily accessible drain area, it is the one that tends to get plugged up with leaves and pine needles. See *the first part of post #2, and also post #7 and #8* in this thread: Water in Cabin Footwell (Cleaning Air Intake Plenum and Sunroof Drains)

*2) Sunroof Drains* - These have no connection with the air conditioning system at all. They drain out water that may drip through the seal between the glass roof panel and the steel roof. The problem with these is that they don't get enough water running through them to keep them clean and functioning properly - in other words, the sunroof seals too well, and the drains clog up with dust. See *the second part of post #2, and also post #3* in this thread: Water in Cabin Footwell (Cleaning Air Intake Plenum and Sunroof Drains)

*3) Evaporator condensate drains* - These drain away water that condenses on the air conditioning cooling coil (the evaporator coil). See *the last two pictures in post #96* in this thread: Water in Cabin Footwell (Cleaning Air Intake Plenum and Sunroof Drains).

Michael


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## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

Hi Michael, 

I have now gone through the process of reset, recharge etc no joy! I was going to check the drain but the link to the pictures appears to be down. The car is booked in to let the workshop have a look, but, thought I'd have a check on the drains first. 

Stu


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## Itzmann (Jan 16, 2006)

PanEuropean said:


> *3) Evaporator condensate drains* - These drain away water that condenses on the air conditioning cooling coil (the evaporator coil). See *the last two pictures in post #96* in this thread: Water in Cabin Footwell (Cleaning Air Intake Plenum and Sunroof Drains).
> 
> Michael


Michael, all three links refer one to topcities.com. Please check out your post.

I had this happen to me yesterday. Facts:

1. 130 mile drive at high speeds.
2. Parked 3 hours.
3. Ambient temp: 95º F.
4. Drive very very slowly for about 1 hr at almost idle speeds.
5. Leave car running in Park with 2 pass while I darted inside a store.
6. *No A/C*
7. With car still on, tried for about 15 mins, always waiting a couple of minutes between methods: (a) Shut off compressor by hitting ECON; (b) Shut off system by setting fan speed to zero; (c) Hard acceleration from stoplight to on-ramp
8. Finally, turned off engine (under a shady tree) for about 10 minutes. Zero water drip under the car observed –this on a car which here in Florida normally seems to always be urinating on the road.
9. Car worked _flawlessly_ rest of day, including a couple of slowly drives at almost idle speeds, several restarts, a couple of parkings, and another 130 mile drive at high speeds.​Car had its A/C compressor replaced under warranty around 4 years ago at around 25,000 miles.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Not sure what caused the problem with the links in the post at the top of the page (forum gremlins, maybe?). Anyway, I have tried to fix them, please see if they work OK now.

Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Air Conditioner Shutoff Codes - VW TT 87-07-93*

Attached is a document that will allow you to identify the causal factor if/when the air conditioning unit shuts down by itself.

Michael


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## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

Itzmann said:


> Car had its A/C compressor replaced under warranty around 4 years ago at around 25,000 miles.


After 4 years without A/C service, the refrigerant may have evaporated. In USA, I believe that the recommended service interval for replacing the refrigerant is 2 years. In my country, with a mild sea climate, this interval is 3 years. This replacement isn't very expensive and can be done by any VW dealer.
Willem


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## tjua (Mar 31, 2013)

*AC problem above 120 km/h*

Gents,

interesting reading about AC issues. 

I have a similar type of problem. It looks (based on two days of testing) like the AC works fine when driving below 120 km/h. When the speed gets above 120 the AC starts to blow air with the same temperatur as outside (at least that what it feels like). This is in Spain where the temperature is between 30-35 C, and the roads are good so 120 limit is not appreciated.

The car is regulary maintained and serviced in Germany, last service at 115k km by the previous owner. I have no knowledge about the service details. I have only owned the car since 119k km and it is currently passing 122k. BTW, any easy way that one can get access to the service details?

I guess a VW "service" on the AC may be required. 

Best regards

PerM


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## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Hi Per,
Where about in Spain are you? 

Gabriel


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## Tiger0002 (Apr 23, 2013)

tjua said:


> Gents,
> 
> interesting reading about AC issues.
> 
> ...


You have lost refrigerant. You need to have it recharged.


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## tjua (Mar 31, 2013)

*Spain*

Gabriel

I am in the Alicante area. Not regulary, but a couple of times during the year.

Br

PerM


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

PanEuropean said:


> Attached is a document that will allow you to identify the causal factor if/when the air conditioning unit shuts down by itself.


Michael (and any one else)

Do I understand that a scan would show these codes? And if so, where exactly?

These are my faults prior to charging the AC:

3 Faults Found:
00926 - Terminal 30 
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
00477 - Control Module; Display & Input; Comfort CAN; Front (J523) 
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
00445 - Loss of Refrigerant 
000 - -

And how long does it take to charge the AC? 

My apologies for asking so many questions but it's 48C today in Kuwait!

Regards,

Salah


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Bindaham said:


> ...how long does it take to charge the AC?


Hi Salah:

It doesn't take particularly long to charge the air conditioning system with refrigerant - perhaps 30 minutes. But, that's not the point.

If your car is low on refrigerant, then there must be a leak somewhere. Refrigerant is not a consumable item. So, the real question that needs to be asked is "How long will it take to find the location of the refrigerant leak?", because it is pointless to add refrigerant without finding where the leak is and solving that problem.

The good news for you is that in Kuwait, you should have no shortage of automotive technicians who are highly skilled at servicing air conditioning systems. So, it should not be difficult to find the leak. If you are lucky, the leak might be at a fitting or connection, and the fix will be to clean and re-tighten the fitting. If you are unlucky, the leak will be in the evaporator and that will cost many thousands of dollars to get access to and replace.

Try and find an air conditioning technician who is familiar with the construction of Phaeton, Audi A8, or Bentley vehicles (all of which are VW products). 

Michael


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

Michael,

Much appreciated. I'm in a "it's either me or her" mode . I'll dedicate all of the second half of Aug to sort all the faults and matters with her. Will defintly report.

Regards,

Salah


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## skiman1 (May 15, 2013)

*2007 Phaeton 3.0 TDI compressor not starting*

Hi from sunny Brighton in the UK,

Aircon was working fine until I left the car all day in the sun, temp probable went up to 40c in the car, when I went out to work the aircon was not working, had the gas checked and it was fine but he said the compressor was not kicking in,

Today we have done a check on Vagcom and come up with the following fault codes

02251 Heater Unit locked

01488 Sensor coolant temp/aux heating G241

005 Upper limit exceeded

Has Michael or anyone got any idea whee that sensor is and a possible part number please,

Any help would be much appreciated,

Mick Dovey


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## Jxander (Aug 5, 2008)

skiman1 said:


> Hi from sunny Brighton in the UK,
> 
> Aircon was working fine until I left the car all day in the sun, temp probable went up to 40c in the car, when I went out to work the aircon was not working, had the gas checked and it was fine but he said the compressor was not kicking in,
> 
> ...


Mick:

After saving your log file did you clear the codes? If not, I'd recommend doing that before doing anything more invasive. After clearing codes see if the compressor will start pumping. I bet that it will. However, the big question is how long will it operate before the error code returns and shuts down the compressor functioning. It maybe that the error code was spurious and will not return but if it does it might be months or years before it occurs again. If it does return quickly you can move on to the replacement of the identified sensor as you will be more certain that the diagnostic indication is correct.

Good luck in whatever direction leads to a solution.

Jim X


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## skiman1 (May 15, 2013)

*2007 Phaeton 3.0 TDI compressor not starting*



Jxander said:


> Mick:
> 
> After saving your log file did you clear the codes? If not, I'd recommend doing that before doing anything more invasive. After clearing codes see if the compressor will start pumping. I bet that it will. However, the big question is how long will it operate before the error code returns and shuts down the compressor functioning. It maybe that the error code was spurious and will not return but if it does it might be months or years before it occurs again. If it does return quickly you can move on to the replacement of the identified sensor as you will be more certain that the diagnostic indication is correct.
> 
> ...


Hi 
Thanks for your reply, yes we did try to clear the codes but it would not clear the sensor, I have since found out where it is( under the airmass meter and turbo) am now hoping to source one via one of our local VW specialists(NOT a main dealer I might add!
Thanks again,
Mick


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

The weather in Kuwait started to cool considerably. Today it was 13 C before sunrise (like the temperature in London ) yet the A/C still starts and the vent covers go up. 

I wonder if there's a way to shut off the A/C instead of me intervening manually to turn it off.

Regards,

Salah


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## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Hi Salah,
That is interesting. 
Do you set the HVAC in auto mode, or alternatively, you select the dashboard vents in the HVAC screen? If the latter is the case, that might be the reason why the covers rise.

Gabriel


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

Hello Gabriel,

I need to check on that. I acquired it last May and I was happy then with the auto feature. Now that it's cold it's getting on my nerves 

will update soon.

Regards,

Salah


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## Upwainuer (Jan 13, 2015)

Frigidaire 12,000 BTU 115V Slider Room Air Conditioner w/ Full-Function Room Control is the best portable air conditioner known to me so far. It quickly cools a room up to 550 sq. ft. with de humidification up to 3.6 pints per hour. It fits nicely in a small window that slides sideways instead of up and down


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

Huh :sly:


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## JessiMac1530 (Feb 2, 2016)

*How to open this bypass valve for ac compressor? or other fix possible??*



Jxander said:


> Since everyone seems to experience this when temps are extraordinarily high, I would suggest focusing on the high pressure switch in the AC system. When ambient temps are high, head pressure on the AC system will also be up. The switch could be faulty and "shut down" the sytem at too low a temp or the unit could have been overcharged and when temps get too hot, high side pressure increases above the safety point and the switch correctly shuts the system down. I believe the Phaeton compressor is clutchless and pressures are regulated by an electromechanical bypass valve. So if high pressure switch, says no cooling, the valve just opens and the compressor turns freely.
> 
> Have any of you that are experiencing this had your "freon" topped off?
> 
> Note to Auzivision: I think some of the VW dealers have a place in their shops for your wife and her diagnostic skills.



Hi there - my 2004 phaeton v8 has been a great car but on her last leg we believe. We dumped over five thousand dollars into this car over the winter. The blower motor went haywire, would not turn off, killed both batteries. Both batteries replaced, blower motor replaced. Now that it's getting into warmer weather (into the 90's yesterday) I've noticed for a few weeks, the blower seems to be blowing weaker, and ALSO - the BIG problem, is it basically blowing hot air. NOT COOL AT ALL. My husband bought a charger and tried it this morning, and it is registering at zero and will not take a charge. He mentioned the clutch, but if it is a clutchless system, then is this bypass valve a possible fix? and something easy for us to do without having to go to the VW dealer, AGAIN?? It has been an absolute nightmare, but we are not in a the market for a new car at the moment, and have had to keep this one going, and pay to do so.  I think he also tried coolant by the way in case someone asks. 

Someone please help! I think my husband may completely lose it if there is just one more issue with this vehicle. :/


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