# 2012 CC Sport Fuel Pump Relay



## bikertom (Feb 22, 2014)

Fuel pump stays on even when car is turned off and runs the battery down, could be the fuel pump relay but I don't know where to find it. Anyone got some insight on this?


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## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

I think the fuel pump relay is in the engine compartment fuse/relay panel, to the right of the battery. Unplug one relay at a time till the fuel pump stops.


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## bikertom (Feb 22, 2014)

yes, pulled them but it did not shut off pump


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## bikertom (Feb 22, 2014)

also found relay block under the left side of the dash and pulled all of them but it did not shut off pump. right now i have to pull fuse to kill pump.


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## bikertom (Feb 22, 2014)

any one got a manual for this car that could help me with this? couldn't find any reference to this relay in Chiltons and when I called the dealer to see if it had a fuel pump relay, the guy said, sure it would have one but when I explained that I had pulled all the relays I could find, he responded, well I think it should have one


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## OEMplusCC (Jan 27, 2013)

bikertom said:


> any one got a manual for this car that could help me with this? couldn't find any reference to this relay in Chiltons and when I called the dealer to see if it had a fuel pump relay, the guy said, sure it would have one but when I explained that I had pulled all the relays I could find, he responded, well I think it should have one


I can TRY to look it up for you but you will have to give me some time.


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## bikertom (Feb 22, 2014)

it would be much appreciated, thanks


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## OEMplusCC (Jan 27, 2013)

Try number#2 on driver side under dash


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## bikertom (Feb 22, 2014)

thanks this will help, mine is a bit different possibly because it is a 2012 but at least I know I'm looking in the right spot. since i have pulled all of these relays and it did not stop the pump, I'm beginning to think i may have some wires shorted across or rubbed through due to vibration that is by bypassing the relay. will do some checking on that tomorrow.


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## OEMplusCC (Jan 27, 2013)

bikertom said:


> thanks this will help, mine is a bit different possibly because it is a 2012 but at least I know I'm looking in the right spot. since i have pulled all of these relays and it did not stop the pump, I'm beginning to think i may have some wires shorted across or rubbed through due to vibration that is by bypassing the relay. will do some checking on that tomorrow.


Are you sure? I intentionally looked up 2012 relay layout. 
Ok How about this? Does this look like your relay blog under driver side dash?
Check Relay #5 . 
Relay #2 is for CBAA, CBAB, CBBB engines and i dont think those exists in US market.


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## bikertom (Feb 22, 2014)

here is what i have


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## bikertom (Feb 22, 2014)

hey all, i'm still puzzled by this. i haven't been able to pull out any relay and stop the fuel pump from running. seems like i've seen some info indicating that when the driver's side door is opened, it causes the fuel pump to run for a short time. anyone familiar with this? if this is true, where are the switch and timer located to do this? still seems like it would need a relay???? how about a wiring diagram that would show the fuel system??? i think this would really help me if someone had one for this 2012 CC sport. someone please have mercy on me!!!


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## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

I could help you more if my Service Manual software (Robert Bentley Publishers) didn't crash....trying to resolve.

But yes, the fuel pump normally runs for about 3 seconds whenever the driver door is opened. I am pretty sure it uses the same fuel pump relay which is engaged when the engine is running. The fuel pump relay is driven by the ECU (engine Computer), and this 3 second pump priming is a function of the ECU, not a separate delay-relay-module.

It sounds like the fuel pump relay contacts are welded-shut, or the fuel pump relay coil-drive return wire is allways shorted to ground, either because the wire back to the ECU has an insulation cut-thru, or the ECU itself is defective ( the power transistor inside the ECU which grounds the relay return wire is shorted).

I was looking at the "Chaindriven TFSI 2.0T" Self Study Guide", and it shows a "Fuel Pump Control Module J538" between the fuel pump relay and the pump. I am not sure the TFSI actually used this control module (the previous gen (FSI) of this engine did, but these Self Study Guides are not always correct). I think the Control Module is located at the top if the tank, where the before the fuel pump wires go into the tank, at the pump access cover. The round black metal access cover is either under the bottom cushion of the rear seat, or under the trunk mat, on the trunk floor, just behind the rear seat. Take a look, if your car has the Fuel Pump Control Module, that could be your problem. Find it and unplug it.


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## bikertom (Feb 22, 2014)

hope you can get that software working, cause i'd love to see a schematic. i think you're right on target for your assessment, i'm just trying to prove it. i tried pulling all the relays in the picture previously posted from under the drivers side dash but it didn't kill the pump. in the photo below, the second blue 15 amp fuse next to the yellow 20 amp is the fuse i pull to kill the pump
(see next post)


this photo shows the fuel pump control module that you had discussed and since it is the only power going to the pump, it does kill the pump when unplugged
(see next post)


finally, this is the only other place i have found any relays, in the engine compartment and neither of these affect the pump
(see next post)

if you get your software working, perhaps it would tell which relay should control the pump. i checked continuity of the unpowered side of the fuse to all the under dash relays and found no continuity to any of them but clearly when the fuse is in, the pump runs so somehow that power is getting from that fuse to the pump, i just thought it might have to go thru the door switch since opening the door can start the pump running, i'm like you, i think there must be a relay that controls this whether it is when the door opens or when the car is running. if the coil wire for the relay was shorted to ground then certainly the relay would be held on like you say but since i pulled all the relays i could find, there was no impact and the pump still ran. anything i could help with as to what your software is doing that it won't come up?


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## bikertom (Feb 22, 2014)

trying to get them to show up directly, again in order

<a href="http://s1366.photobucket.com/user/rainestom/media/photo11_zps90dad000.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/r767/rainestom/photo11_zps90dad000.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo photo11_zps90dad000.jpg"/></a>


<a href="http://s1366.photobucket.com/user/rainestom/media/photo22_zpsa889e6e7.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/r767/rainestom/photo22_zpsa889e6e7.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo photo22_zpsa889e6e7.jpg"/></a>


<a href="http://s1366.photobucket.com/user/rainestom/media/photo3_zpsf163c29d.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/r767/rainestom/photo3_zpsf163c29d.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo photo3_zpsf163c29d.jpg"/></a>


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## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

OK, got my Service Manual Software working. Here is how the fuel pump circuit works.

The fuel pump 12V power is switched by the Fuel Pump Module (FPM), (under the rear seat, by the tank/pump access plate). There is no conventional relay for the pump power, probably a solid state switch inside the FPM.

You probably have a bad FPM, the solid state switch is permanently shorted ON.

The FPM is wired like this:
There are two +12V feeds (from fuses) to the FPM. One has a 15A fuse (SC27), and connects to the FPM with a red wire with green stripe, at FPM connector pin #1
The second +12V feed is thru a 10A fuse (SC10), and connects to the FPM with a green wire with black stripe at FPM connector pin#3. These fuses are located at "Fuse Panel C", which is the one on the drivers side of the dash, behind the triangular side dash panel. You found and pulled fuse SC27 which stopped the pump.

The Fuel pump is turned-ON when it gets either of two control signals. The first control signal comes from the Electrical System Control Module (J519), located behind the dash, drivers side, about a foot in front of your left knee. This is the signal that tells the FPM to turn on the pump for a few seconds when the drivers door is opened, to prime the pump. This signal connects to the FPM thru a red with black stripe wire at FPM connector pin #7.

The second control signal comes from the ECU (engine control computer), and commands the pump ON when the engine is starting and running. It connects to FPM thru a yellow with blue stripe wire at FPM connector pin #2.

To verify that the FPM is bad, remove the two control wires (with pins, #2 and #7) from the FPM connector (might be an easy pin-release "clip" lock that many of the connectors have), plug the connector into the FPM, connect the battery and see if the pump continuosly runs. If it does, the FPM is confirmed bad. If the pump stops running, the wiring to the Electrical System Control Module (J519) is bad, or J519 itself is defective, OR the wiring to the engine ECU is bad (or the ECU is bad).


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## bikertom (Feb 22, 2014)

will be working on it tonight, will try out your suggestions on the fuel pump control module, thanks so much for the detailed info, it will really help, I'll update with what I find


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## HornetHandler (Oct 25, 2010)

Excellent

Thanks, CC'ed


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## bikertom (Feb 22, 2014)

well, seems like this has become quite the ordeal. CC'ed, your info was invaluable but here is what I found, I didn't have a way to pull pins 7 and 2 out of the connector. I was getting 12 v through the module to the pump power terminals, so I measured the voltage coming from both of the 2 and 7 pins. I only got 2.2v on pin 2 when the key was turned on, however, I had 2.3v on pin 7 all the time. At that point i was convinced that i had a problem at the electrical system control module (J519) so I removed it and found the same color wire as on pin 7 (red with light blue stripe) in the center connector of J519. (fyi:There were other places i saw this wire color as well for other circuits.) i removed the center connector from this escm and the 2.3v went away on pin 7. this gives me the impression that the escm is probably providing a bad signal and is likely bad. since all this does is turn on the pump when the door is opened and since i have found no other flawed circuits, i opted to cut the wire to the 7 pin and put connectors on the ends so I could reconnect whenever i want and not purchase a new escm. i reconnected all except the 7 wire and the pump still ran, even without the 2.3v from the 7 pin. that being the case, i concluded that the fuel pump module is bad and i have ordered a new one. if i'm right then i may have had two electrical problems at the same time, the door fuel pump control circuit power being on all the time and the fuel pump module being bad. I supposed it's possible that since this door fuel pump control circuit was on all the time and since a second fuel pump control circuit would come on when the key was turned on, maybe this provided too much amperage for the fuel pump module and burned it out. i'll update this again when i get my fuel pump module. Any other thoughts on this?


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## bikertom (Feb 22, 2014)

*solved- fuel pump runs continuously*

I got the new fuel control module and it solved all the problems. The pump is now turning on when the door is opened for a few seconds and then it goes off. I don't think it is appropriate to check voltage at terminals if the module is not fully connected since now I am seeing 12v at pin 7 when the pump is off. The voltage drops to zero when the door is opened and the pump starts running. I took it that this probably means that they are using a bucking voltage that allows the pump to run when the voltage goes to zero on pin 7. Regardless, I'm back in business. Thanks folks for your help.


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