# Troubleshooting Faults in a 2004 W12 (Kevin's car in Alberta)



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Hey everyone,

Will be trading my '05 Range Rover for a Phaeton next week (He's adding $3k on top)
The Phaeton is an '04 with 106k miles. New brakes, winter tires, new batteries, brake lining and starter. 

Can anyone give me any advice as to what I should look out for?


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## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

W12Canada said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> Will be trading my '05 Range Rover for a Phaeton next week (He's adding $3k on top)
> The Phaeton is an '04 with 106k miles. New brakes, winter tires, new batteries, brake lining and starter.
> ...


Hi,

welcome to a great place!!

W12's are pretty rare in the UK (due to the price and fuel consumption) so this advice is NOT W12 specific.

BEFORE you drive away (if possible) get yourself (you WILL need one at some point) a Ross Tech VCDS and a laptop. Plug it in and scan the car. You can be pretty sure at this point it will show at least one DTC (fault). DO NOT clear the faults at this stage.

Make a note of the fault(s), post them here and wait (usually for a very short period) for someone to interpret them (unless you are familiar with the workings of this marvellous chariot).

You then have another bargaining chip if nothing else to get a better deal, but most of all you know pretty much everything that you need to know about that specific vehicle.

I have found preventative maintenance to be the best course of action. Look carefully through the forum and you will see patterns develop. Change thing BEFORE they break, it is cheaper.

All in all they are solid cars, I have racked up or 270k miles in mine, and, touch wood, I have not spent a penny to "repair" ANY failed component, although my ADC (radar distance control) is getting flaky on one.

Stu


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Picked it up today.

Check oil level (did oil change) warning doesn't go away.

TPMS malfunction light is on

Check Brake Pad lights on (brakes feel normal)

Shock absorbers workshop light is on

Oil filter housing assembly is loose (dangling)

Missing skid plate.


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Picked it up today.

Check oil level (did oil change) warning doesn't go away.

TPMS malfunction light is on

Check Brake Pad lights on (brakes feel normal)

Shock absorbers workshop light is on

Oil filter housing assembly is loose (dangling)

Missing skid plate.

HID lights are flickering.


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## conmoto (Jul 8, 2009)

$160 to change your own lights
$320 to interface with the computer to disable TPMS and faulty brake warning.

Not sure about the rest


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Also, there's this small fan that seems to be hitting something because it's making a very loud ticking noise.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi (sorry, I don't know your name),

Your list will make for interesting diagnostics. The dealer bill would be vast, but with the help of the folks here it could be a fun project. As a reminder to myself, this is your list;



Check oil level (did oil change) warning doesn't go away.
TPMS malfunction light is on
Check Brake Pad lights on (brakes feel normal)
Shock absorbers workshop light is on
Oil filter housing assembly is loose (dangling)
Missing skid plate.
Small fan making a very loud ticking noise.


Here's some bedtime reading:


The end of the oil level dipstick breaks off. Be extremely cautious not to overfill the oil, this *will* be catastrophic. The oil level sensor is in the engine oil pan, check its cable. The following link seems odd, but may be worth reading: oil level too low SOLVED

TPMS can be touchy, it quite probably works fine but either needs a set of 5 wheel sensors (increasingly cheap, see the advice on the forum) or setting up using the correct procedure over a couple of days. It's very good once it works. Here is the information on it: Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) Design Function Operation and Troubleshooting. For cheap sensors search the forum, there are three sources other than paying dealer prices.

Check that the new brake pads were the correct sensor types containing the metal wear pick-ups. If the sensor wires are dangling and not connected you can change the pads again for the correct type.

You need a VCDS/VAG-COM scan to get more information about the suspension fault. If there's a leak, driving for some time can break the compressor, which is expensive, so buy a VCDS cable and download the software to your laptop soon.

I think a photo and a fuller description of the oil filter housing problem might help. Some housings present an expensive problem.

Noise panels can be acquired used, but might have to be imported from somewhere like Germany or Poland where there are better sources. Check ebay.de and allegro.pl and first translate your search terms appropriately using Google Translate. Google Chrome browser does a fair job of translating the web sites.

We need more information on the ticking fan, perhaps a photo?


I hope that helps set off the discussion.

Good luck,
Chris


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Will be doing a lot of reading and research today. Will also upload some pics later as well. Also realized that the badge on the boot is upside down.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

> Also realized that the badge on the boot is upside down.


That's usually a reasonably well-intentioned creative edit by the car customiser fraternity, my son did the same thing with his VW, or perhaps that should be 'his MA'!

Chris


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## Paldi (Sep 4, 2004)

I'm guessing the fan is the one of the two that blows air into the front seats. I can hear mine when they are on, but there is no "ticking" yet. 120k miles on the car.


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Is there a way for me to turn it right side up? Car didn't come with a manual.
Also, the fan is located in the engine bay behind the radiator.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

> Is there a way for me to turn it right side up?


It doesn't appear to be easily reversible in the first place, but I guess you'll have to have a look. There's information on pulling the lid trim in a thread in the TOC page, search for 'Retrofitting a Warning Triangle in Trunk Lid'.

Chris


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Only had time to take one picture today.


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## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

Paximus said:


> It doesn't appear to be easily reversible in the first place, but I guess you'll have to have a look. There's information on pulling the lid trim in a thread in the TOC page, search for 'Retrofitting a Warning Triangle in Trunk Lid'.
> 
> Chris


Chris,

pretty sure that you are right (again), the trim needs to be removed, I think I remember seeing two nuts internally that secure the badge.

Stu


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)




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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Holy crow, that car has a whole lot of problems.

Besides the obvious problems that you pointed out, you have a broken shifter plate within the Tiptronic assembly - that is why all the letters in PRNDL are lit up. See this post: PRNDS Lights up, or; Unwanted "Move Selector to P" message.

I don't know if you have bought the car yet or not, but 171,000 km is a heck of a lot on a W12 car. The suspension problem could easily cost you $10,000 to fix, and the problem with the brake wear sensor being illuminated suggests that the car may not have been maintained using the correct replacement parts.

I suggest you have all the problems looked at by a VW shop before you lay the money down for the car. It might cost you a couple of hundred dollars to have the vehicle surveyed by a VW technician, but that $200 might save you $10 or $15 thousand.

Michael


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Also noticed that my key fob doesn't really work unless I get real close to the car. Bought a replacement battery and still the same deal.

My budget for this car is about $500-$750/month on repairs.

Anyone know where I should start and things that MUST be replaced?


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

Uh, yeah.  You seem to have bought a fixer-upper. Although, given the upside-down VW logo, it's possible that some of the faults you're seeing are from modifications rather than damage. 

START HERE: http://store.ross-tech.com/shop/cat/VCDS.html

You're going to need Ross Tech's VCDS interface and software to do meaningful work on this car. You need the KII-USB interface (at minimum) or the HEX-USB+CAN interface (recommended). Yes, there are pirated Chinese versions with outdated software on eBay. No, you don't want those.



Oil pressure light - That light isn't the maintenance reminder, it's the bad-news light. If you've verified you have the right oil level, and you say something has damaged your oil filter housing assembly, the oil pressure sender attached to it has probably been broken off or had its wiring damaged. That's where you should look.
TPMS malfunction - could be a number of things. With the age of the car, the TPMS sensor batteries may be dead (they only last 6-7 years). Or, the previous owner could have mounted different wheels and tires and not used TPMS sensors. A scan with VCDS would let us tell you more about what's wrong. And if you decide you want to disable TPMS entirely, we can walk you through doing that with VCDS.
Brake pad warning - the front brakes should have a built-in wear sensor. It's possible the wear sensor is worn through and the brakes need replacement, or it's possible the original owner fitted pads without wear sensors. You should check the front brake pad thickness on both sides. If the pads don't have wear sensors, we can walk you through disabling pad wear monitoring with VCDS. I don't believe the rear pads have wear sensors.
Shock absorber light - impossible to say without VCDS and with all the other warnings being thrown in the instrument cluster. Could be virtually nothing, could be $$$.
Transmission gear indicator inverse lettering - Some sort of fault in the transmission or its controls, or controls that it depends on. PanEuropean could be right about the cause, but that warning is a very general indicator of non-specific problems. Again, a VCDS scan will point us to why.
Low windshield washer fluid - fill it up with washer fluid. 

Jason


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

W12Canada said:


> My budget for this car is about $500-$750/month on repairs.


If that means you are budgeting $6,000 to $9,000 per year for repairs, then that will probably be sufficient, assuming you drive the car 20,000 km a year. The fly in the ointment is that some single repairs are very expensive, hence you might wind up using up your whole budget in one month.

To be able to provide any useful guidance about how to prioritize repairs, you will need to get a diagnostic scan of the car done. You can buy a tool to do this (called a VAG-COM or VCDS) for about $300. Consider that tool to be an absolutely essential 'price of admission' to owning your car. There is a VAG-COM (VCDS) forum here on Vortex you can visit to get more information, and of course you can also go to Ross-Tech's website (www.ross-tech.com) and get information there.

In the meantime, until you have obtained your own diagnostic scan tool, have a look at the VAG-COM forum and that will help you locate someone in your area (Calgary?) who has one. Any VW owner can scan your car (the process is the same for all automobiles), and they can save the scan as a text file and give it to you. You can then post the results here and we can look at them.

Unless you keep your car in a heated garage, it would be a wise idea to get an oil pan heater installed. That W12 engine holds 13 quarts of oil, you don't want to have it all congealed into a semi-solid blob when you start the car in the depths of an Alberta winter.

Michael


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## Paldi (Sep 4, 2004)

Hi Michael.

This Canadian fellow (and his W12) needs a visit!












Fred


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## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

Just a thought............

LH Battery as a starting point then clear DTC's?

Stu


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

Replying to myself...


> Oil pressure light - That light isn't the maintenance reminder, it's the bad-news light. If you've verified you have the right oil level, and you say something has damaged your oil filter housing assembly, the oil pressure sender attached to it has probably been broken off or had its wiring damaged. That's where you should look.


Correcting myself here. I had forgotten the Phaeton also has an oil temperature sensor, which I think monitors oil level as well. It's in a recess in the bottom of the oil pan. So, you still do have a sensor problem, but it's not necessarily the oil pressure sensor (a separate device). From what you said earlier, it sounds like the car has been grounded out hard enough to lose the belly pan and break some stuff inside, and damage to the sensor under the pan would be very consistent with that.

Michael posted a good picture of the temperature sensor here:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5466842-oil-temp-sensor&p=74129281&viewfull=1#post74129281

Your pic of the cluster doesn't include the oil temperature gauge. If your oil temperature gauge doesn't move even after the car has been thoroughly warmed up and driven, that would be additional confirmation.

Jason


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

Paldi said:


> This Canadian fellow (and his W12) needs a visit!


That Canadian fellow needs to tell us what paint care products he's using.  I have the Klavierlack finish too but I can't get that polished mirror look.


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## cowboy_ (May 16, 2011)

jyoung8607 said:


> That Canadian fellow needs to tell us what paint care products he's using.  I have the Klavierlack finish too but I can't get that polished mirror look.


My thoughts exactly!  Probably we need a polish first.


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## Auzivision (Apr 19, 2007)

W12Canada said:


> Also noticed that my key fob doesn't really work unless I get real close to the car. Bought a replacement battery and still the same deal.
> 
> My budget for this car is about $500-$750/month on repairs.
> 
> Anyone know where I should start and things that MUST be replaced?


Oil is the most critical item on the list. Make absolutely certain the level is correct on the dip stick (or at least close/visible). The loose oil filter housing doesn't sound good either. However, if the oil level is correct it's possible that the oil level sensor is defective... not a big deal. Missing skip plate sounds like what I would call a belly pan. If so, I'd Put that on medium to high priority because you don't want dirt and water constantly splashing up.

The ticking noise behind radiator would be my second concern behind the oil. Could be minor like something slightly out of line to moderate like serpentine belt, pulley, etc getting ready to go, or something major like fan hitting the radiator which could cause a leak. Whatever you do, under no circumstance run an engine that isn't being cooled properly. I'd argue that running out of coolant is probably worse than running out of oil by at least 10X.

Brake pad lights wouldn't concern me after checking that the pads have some meat left (.5cm+). Brakes in general are good for safety, but the major source of failure will be some sort of leak. Worn pads, unless extremely severe will still stop a vehicle... might cause collateral damage to rotors... which now days don’t really last that much longer that good quality pads anyways. So visual check pads, if thick low priority.

Lights flickering is a sign of impending failure, typically they start flickering more and more. In my book, that is a high priority if driving after dark. A pair of bulbs and a reasonable pair of skinny hands and couple hours work and that’s fixed. I’d place this third behind oil and noise.

Anything TMPS related is very low priority. A good old manual tire pressure gauge works just fine, but do keep in mind this car is heavier than average with higher pressure than normal meaning that a simple visual inspection isn’t really good enough. A tire with say 30 lbs might look full, but isn’t. A tire blow out or losing a wheel isn’t as bad as some might think. I’ve had both happen in my lifetime and had no problem maintaining control of my vehicles, just keep in mind no sudden changes (ie braking or steering) and best to just avoid them with proper tire inflation. 

The biggest unknown is the suspension. If the car is at a reasonable level off the ground, drive it. I could be wrong, but I think there really isn’t anything ‘serviceable’ related to the shock. Either they work or they don’t. Pray that they work, because if they quit working, your budget is probably toast. I think there are a few rebuild options coming online or possible sourcing used… it’s not only a mechanical job, but also an electronic one (new controller). This quite honestly is my biggest worry related to Phaeton ownership.

The solid background lights surround the PRND is some sort of fault signal that can be related to the transmission selector as previously mentioned. However, it can also mean other things, just can’t recall off the top of my head. I’ve had it before and now I don’t and never had to replace the selector sensor. If the tranny is shifting fairly smooth, I’d put this in the low priority group. 

Key fobs working within 10 feet is about 50/50… beyond 25 is more like 0%. When touching the VW emblem to open trunk, it helps if key pocket is close to rear bumper. Watch for tail light flicker to confirm touch.

Finally, fill the washer fluid because it cheap and easy and a simple

ALso, scrutinize all the advice you receive on the internet before deciding what works best for you. Oh yeah and invest in a Vag/com at Ross Tech is probably the smartest money you can spend right now. That’s what I would do if I were you… that and enjoy riding around in a very cool car


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Paldi said:


> This Canadian fellow (and his W12) needs a visit!


Hi Fred:

Great to hear from you again!

I do agree it would be nice to visit him, but I'm in Borneo right now, headed for Indonesia later this week, and I probably won't be back in Canada until December at the very earliest.

My VW dealer (in Victoria, BC) doesn't know what to make of me - I dropped my car off for an oil change in September, and have not been back to pick it up since then. 

Michael


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Hey everyone,

Thanks for all the input and advice. I still haven't found the time to sit at home and even go through the manual!

So I'm writing this from my phone.

Oil change was done right after I picked her up. I was told that the oil was a little low. Used 12L of 5W-40 Castrol Syntec (Plus/Premium?). Light was still on afterwards. Checked coolant, no leak and is good to go. Stays at a constant 200 degrees. The oil temperature sensor does indeed work and fluctuates (heard this is normal) between 120 degrees and 160 degrees.

The fan issue seems to either be a bearing issue or it's rubbing against the radiator. 

Passenger side rear sunshade refuses to go in. (Pulley/Tensioner broke?)

The transmission does feel like it'll need fluids replaced soon.

This car does not fit in my garage so it is parked outside.

Also, A while ago, i've purchased an OBD2 scanner (Wifi) module that can connect to my laptop so if there is a VAG COM software for my computer, I'll be able to read the codes. If not then I'll have to pay someone to get them read.

Regards,

Kevin


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Air suspension seems to be fine.
Goes up and down and the warning only comes up as soon as I move and the car notices a change in the suspension (minor bumps on the road).

Even with all these warning lights. The car seems to be doing fine.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

There's a ride height sensor on each wheel, they do fail occasionally. I think it's a physical arm that moves, so bumps causing the problem might make sense. You'll probably need a scan to find out which one it is though.

Not sure about the W12, but the temperature gauge on the V8 never fluctuates. There's been discussion that the gauges don't even register the actual values, but are software controlled and only move when there's a problem.

The transmission sounds worrying. I'd have that looked at sooner rather than later. A fluid change isn't cheap, but it costs a lot less than a new transmission.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

> Even with all these warning lights. The car seems to be doing fine.


I suspect that if your W12 drives well, regardless of the warning lights, you should be enjoying that 'Phaeton Grin'!

An OBD-II scanner won't do the job, it only retrieves emissions related data. You need access to a VAG-COM cable. It's possible that you can extend the USB plug on the VAG-COM using BlueTooth but I haven't heard of it being done, and in any case the cable does a good job right to the laptop.

It will be much harder for folks here to help without you buying that cable, or as a get-you-going for you to buy a cheap copy and use the free download software. But if you keep the car you will end up buying a genuine cable, so might as well do it soon.

I don't know what the others here think about it, but you might like to start a new thread on each item as you tackle it (assuming that you intend to try and fix some of the problems) before this thread explodes into half a dozen themes all running in parallel!

Have fun 
Chris


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## Auzivision (Apr 19, 2007)

Engine temp 200 or less is great. Oil temp really isn't that relevant, although with the W12's 3 gallons it does act a secondary heat exchanger. Oil temp bouncing around under 160 wouldn't concern me. To me oil pressure is more critical, but it pretty much directly related to temp and viscosity.

Not sure what “transmission feels like it needs a fluid replaced” means? To me if it shift from park to reverse to neutral to drive and back without unusual delay, vibrations, noises, etc that’s good. Clanks, clunks, delays, etc not so much. The other seat of pants tranny test is to drive it while pay attention to shift points. Should be smooth, timely, and at appropriate RPM for given conditions. Things like slipping, jerking, clanking, shifting too soon, or too late are telltales of possible problems. There is a specific procedure to servicing these trannies. Getting them refilled to the proper level is key.

Possibly, if you can, post some pictures of the oil filter bracket and keep us posted on your progress.


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Got confused about the oil temps. I meant between 160 and 200. Doesn't go over it.










Here's a picture of the W12


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Would this cable work?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/VAG-COM-KKL-...LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20cd13c630&_uhb=1


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Will respond to everyone this weekend. Haven't had the time. Though this Phaeton is my daily driver and seems reliable even with all the lights on. My grand father owns the Continental Flying Spur and after I've sat inside it and it's something I've really admired. Now that I own a Phaeton, I think I'll keep this for a while.


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

W12Canada said:


> Would this cable work?
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/VAG-COM-KKL-...LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20cd13c630&_uhb=1


Nope.

Edited to add: Version 409 had basically zero support for the Phaeton. It came out in late 2004, and even the beginnings of Phaeton support didn't start appearing until mid-2005.



jyoung8607 said:


> START HERE: http://store.ross-tech.com/shop/cat/VCDS.html
> 
> You're going to need Ross Tech's VCDS interface and software to do meaningful work on this car. You need the KII-USB interface (at minimum) or the HEX-USB+CAN interface (recommended). *Yes, there are pirated Chinese versions with outdated software on eBay. No, you don't want those.*


The older pirated clones either won't support the Phaeton at all, or they'll be missing crucial updates. There were important updates as recent as a year ago. This is the single most important tool you need for this car. It will save you money on dealer trips and from throwing parts at unknown problems. It's smart money to spend. It's okay to get their cheaper KII-USB interface if you think you'll never own a newer VW. Just get the real deal from Ross-Tech so you can use the most current software.

Jason


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

I meant can't I just order a generic cable off of eBay and purchase the VCDS software? It seems that it would save me at least a couple hundred dollars. If not, I guess it's something I'll have to fork over then.


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## Expoman (May 15, 2011)

W12Canada said:


> I meant can't I just order a generic cable off of eBay and purchase the VCDS software? It seems that it would save me at least a couple hundred dollars. If not, I guess it's something I'll have to fork over then.


Yes, you can do this however and pay a small fee for the Lite version of the software but you lose all lot in terms of functionality.

A couple of hundred bucks is a drop in the ocean for what this tool brings to the table IMO.

Good luck,

Best,
Steven


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## Auzivision (Apr 19, 2007)

W12Canada said:


> Got confused about the oil temps. I meant between 160 and 200. Doesn't go over it.
> 
> Here's a picture of the W12


Funny you should mention this, after driving my last night I realized the coolant temp and oil temp should roughly agree with each other especially after running for a while. I was going to suggest the oil temp gauge was working, but 160 to 200 sounds about right.

Here is a picture of where the oil filter is located:









And this is what it looks like up under the splash guard:










It's possible a bracket is broken and J.B. Weld might be a decent alternative to replacement. That stuff is amazingly strong and holds up well in under hood environment.


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

That's exactly it! I don't have skid plates on my car so I was able to just see everything. The oil filter + the metal things around it seem to be linked together as they move as a whole.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

It's interesting hearing about adhesive solutions for big Phaeton engines, instead of the dealer dropping the engine for a few thousand!

Here's the oil filter housing and bracket for the BAN engine. I always imagined it to be integral with the block, but it looks like it can hang freely with no great emergency.

Parts 21A and 20 comprise the rubber vibration damper and its bonded bolt. I wonder if they have become detached?

Chris


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Paying someone $10 today to do the scan. Will post what the results are.

Also, when the shocks are set to sport (all the way to the right), the warning message doesn't pop up.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

> Paying someone $10 today to do the scan.


Yay!!!!!


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## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

W12Canada said:


> Paying someone $10 today to do the scan. Will post what the results are.
> 
> Also, when the shocks are set to sport (all the way to the right), the warning message doesn't pop up.


It will be the best 10 bucks you ever spend!!

Stu


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

W12Canada said:


> Paying someone $10 today to do the scan. Will post what the results are.


Close enough for now.  Looking forward to the result.



> Also, when the shocks are set to sport (all the way to the right), the warning message doesn't pop up.


Hmm, that might not be a good thing. Most of the no-big-deal causes, or external causes to a suspension fault message won't be sensitive to your current height setting. _[edit: you said firmness setting clears it, not height changes, sorry]_ Hopefully it's something like a level-tracking sensor arm ($) rather than a problematic air shock ($$$$). If it's riding well and sitting level today, that is a good sign. Anyway, the scan will tell us what's up.

Jason


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Thursday,08,November,2012,17:22:34:37231
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.4
Data version: 20120807



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Chassis Type: 3D - VW Phaeton D1
Scan: 01 02 03 05 06 07 08 09 11 13 15 16 17 18 19 23 27 28 29 2E
34 36 37 38 39 46 47 55 56 57 65 66 68 69 71 75 76 77

VIN: WVWAH63D948007583 Mileage: 171780km/106739miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 07C-906-018-BAP1.lbl
Part No SW: 07C 906 018 C HW: 
Component: D1-6.0L-AG-LEV G ª5211 
Coding: 0000173
Shop #: WSC 39990 444 00648
VCID: 254BD2B9EF706930723

1 Fault Found:
18359 - Radiator Fan 2 (V177) 
P1951 - 002 - Movement Restricted / Jammed - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 3D0-927-156.lbl
Part No: 3D0 927 156 N
Component: AG5 01L 6.0 W12 USA 1114 
Coding: 0001102
Shop #: WSC 13622 410 403014
VCID: 336F3CE151A40780EC7

1 Fault Found:
18158 - Supply Voltage 
P1750 - 003 - too Low 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 3D0-614-517.lbl
Part No: 3D0 614 517 R
Component: ESP 5.7 allrad H33 0043 
Coding: 0008397
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 316336E9ABB835909EB

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 05: Acc/Start Auth. Labels: 3D0-909-13x-05.lbl
Part No SW: 3D0 909 137 A HW: 5WK 470 19
Component: Kessy 6700 
Revision: 67005614 Serial number: VWZ3Z0C7075885
Coding: 0137452
Shop #: WSC 07218 444 59231
VCID: 254BD2B9EF706930723

Part No: XXXXXXXXXXX 
Component: ELV XXXX

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 06: Seat Mem. Pass Labels: 3D0-959-759.lbl
Part No: 3D0 959 759 B
Component: Sitzmemory D1 BF 1401 
Coding: 0000003
Shop #: WSC 97000 444 59175
VCID: 356B02F95FD019B0C23

1 Fault Found:
00477 - Control Module; Display & Input; Comfort CAN; Front (J523) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 07: Control Head Labels: 3D0-035-00x-07.lbl
Part No: 3D0 035 008 M
Component: ZAB COCKPIT 0188 
Coding: 0000000
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 244DCFBDE44A903865D

3 Faults Found:
01044 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded 
000 - - 
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded
00384 - Optical Databus 
004 - No Signal/Communication

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 3D0-907-040.lbl
Part No: 3D0 907 040 F
Component: Climatronic D1 1132 
Coding: 0000002
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 2143C6A9FB5885100EB

1 Fault Found:
00229 - Refrigerant Pressure 
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 3D0-937-049-V1.clb
Part No: 3D0 937 049 G
Component: STG.Bordnetz 5001 
Coding: 0000002
Shop #: WSC 07208 444 54657
VCID: 2E592D95BA862A68839

2 Faults Found:
01498 - Bulb for Parking Lamps; Right (M3) 
010 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
00907 - Intervention load Management 
000 - - 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 11: Engine II Labels: 07C-906-018-BAP2.lbl
Part No SW: 07C 906 018 C HW: 
Component: D1-6.0L-AG-LEV G ª5211 
Coding: 0000173
Shop #: WSC 97000 444 00415
VCID: 254BD2B9EF706930723

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 3D0-909-601.lbl
Part No: 3D0 909 601 D
Component: 0A Airbag 8.4E+ H07 0934 
Coding: 0012353
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 244DCFBDE44A903865D

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel Labels: 3D0-953-549.lbl
Part No: 3D0 953 549 C
Component: Lenksäulenmodul 3301 
Coding: 0000232
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 2D5B2A99B7805170BA3

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 3D0-920-xxx-17.lbl
Part No: 3D0 920 981 G
Component: KOMBIINSTRUMENT RB4 0412 
Coding: 0007221
Shop #: WSC 97000 444 00007
VCID: 2B5F248189945F40A47

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
Part No: 6N0 909 901 
Component: Gateway KCAN 0101 
Coding: 0000006
Shop #: WSC 07208 444 84825
VCID: F0E573EDE032FC98515

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 28: HVAC, Rear Labels: 3D0-919-158.lbl
Part No: 3D0 919 158 F
Component: Klima-Bedienteil D1 0117 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 2E592D95BA862A68839

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 29: Left Light Labels: 3D0-909-157.lbl
Part No: 3D0 909 157 
Component: EVG GDL+AutoLWR(l) X012 
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: E6C915B5D2F622283B9

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 34: Level Control Labels: 3D0-907-553.lbl
Part No: 3D0 907 553 B
Component: LUFTFDR.-CDC- 3C1V0 1101 
Coding: 0017700
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 2649D5B5927662287B9

2 Faults Found:
00143 - Right Front Dampening Adjustment Valve (N337) 
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent
01583 - Leak in System Detected 
000 - - - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 36: Seat Mem. Drvr Labels: 3D0-959-760.lbl
Part No: 3D0 959 760 B
Component: Sitzmemory D1 F 1401 
Coding: 0000004
Shop #: WSC 97000 444 53697
VCID: 2D5B2A99B7805170BA3

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 37: Navigation Labels: 3D0-919-887.lbl
Part No: 3D0 919 887 A
Component: NAVIGATION 0147 
Coding: 0400000
Shop #: WSC 07208 444 53476
VCID: 326139E5AEBE0E88E71

1 Fault Found:
00625 - Vehicle Speed Signal 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 38: Roof Electronics Labels: 3D0-907-135.lbl
Part No: 3D0 907 135 B
Component: Dachmodul 0605 
Coding: 0000015
 Shop #: WSC 98765 666 30460
VCID: 2241C9A5FE5E9E08171

2 Faults Found:
00222 - Connection to Rain Sensor 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
00403 - Sunroof Motor (V1) 
000 - - - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 39: Right Light Labels: 3D0-909-158.lbl
Part No: 3D0 909 158 
Component: EVG GDL+AutoLWR(r) X012 
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: E7D718B1D5FC3B2000F

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 3D0-959-933.lbl
Part No: 3D0 959 933 E
Component: 6P HSG 3211 
Coding: 0000040
Shop #: WSC 91511 999 12530
VCID: 326139E5AEBE0E88E71

Part No: 3D1 959 701 E
Component: Tuersteuergeraet FS 0104

Part No: 3D1 959 702 E
Component: Tuersteuergeraet BF 0104

Part No: 3D0 959 703 E
Component: Tuersteuergeraet HL 0104

Part No: 3D0 959 704 E
Component: Tuersteuergeraet HR 0104

Part No: 3D0 909 610 B
Component: 3I HDSG 2320

Part No: 7L0 907 719 
Component: Neigungssensor 0020

1 Fault Found:
01134 - Alarm Horn (H12) 
004 - No Signal/Communication

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 47: Sound System Labels: 7Lx-035-4xx-47.lbl
Part No: 3D0 035 466 
Component: 12K-AUDIOVERST 0115 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: DFC700510DAC73E0F8F

1 Fault Found:
00870 - Bass Speaker Front Left (R21) 
011 - Open Circuit

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 65: Tire Pressure Labels: 3D0-907-273.lbl
Part No: 3D0 907 273 C
Component: Reifendruckueberw. 0021 
Coding: 0010284
Shop #: WSC 64261 372 487215
VCID: 2649D5B5927662287B9

1 Fault Found:
01325 - Control Module for Tire Pressure Monitoring (J502) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent - MIL ON

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 66: Seat, Rear Labels: 3D0-959-860.lbl
Part No: 3D0 959 860 B
Component: Sitzmemory D1 H 1513 
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 2E592D95BA862A68839

1 Fault Found:
00477 - Control Module; Display & Input; Comfort CAN; Front (J523) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 68: Wiper Electr. Labels: 3D1-955-119.lbl
Part No: 3D1 955 119 
Component: Front Wiper 2005 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: E6C915B5D2F622283B9

1 Fault Found:
00003 - Control Module 
014 - Defective

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 71: Battery Charger Labels: 3D0-915-181.lbl
Part No: 3D0 915 181 D
Component: Batteriemanagement 2800 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 244DCFBDE44A903865D

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 75: Telematics Labels: 3D0-035-617.lbl
Part No SW: 3D0 035 617 HW: 3D0 035 617 
Component: Telematik NAR1 0101 
Coding: 0061860
Shop #: WSC 97000 444 59175
VCID: DDBB3A5907A061F0EA3

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 76: Park Assist Labels: 3D0-919-283.lbl
Part No: 3D0 919 283 C
Component: 03 Einparkhilfe 0807 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 2A512185866E46485F1

2 Faults Found:
01547 - Sensor for Parking Aid; Rear Mid-Right (G205) 
014 - Defective - Intermittent
00437 - Right Rear Inner Parking Aid Sensor (G335) 
014 - Defective - Intermittent

End ---------------------------------------------------------------------


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Disabled the brake pad sensors.


----------



## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

Well, that's a lot.

Good news, bad news. I don't think you have any catastrophic problems. You have a few minor maintenance issues, possibly an AC refrigerant leak, and probably a weak VPS battery that needs to be replaced.

Also, someone has already been screwing with VCDS on this car and left several control modules mis-configured, or they've done one hell of a transplant from another Phaeton and didn't finish the job. Easy to fix, but you'll have to call your new VCDS buddy back or buy an interface. This is the cause of several of your warnings.

*Physical repairs:*



> Address 01: Engine Labels: 07C-906-018-BAP1.lbl
> Part No SW: 07C 906 018 C HW:
> Component: D1-6.0L-AG-LEV G ª5211
> Coding: 0000173
> ...


This is your cooling fan that's dragging and making noise under the hood. Sounds like there's some sort of obstruction or misalignment. You'll have to figure this one out.



> Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 3D0-927-156.lbl
> Part No: 3D0 927 156 N
> Component: AG5 01L 6.0 W12 USA 1114
> Coding: 0001102
> ...


Just low voltage/battery at some point. No big deal. Could be cause of your cluster's gearshift display in emergency mode, since it's showing as current instead of intermittent (past). BUT, check out the re-coding section below.



> Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 3D0-907-040.lbl
> Part No: 3D0 907 040 F
> Component: Climatronic D1 1132
> Coding: 0000002
> ...


Compressor shut off because refrigerant is low. You may not have air conditioning. The system may need to be inspected for leaks and repaired.



> Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 3D0-937-049-V1.clb
> Part No: 3D0 937 049 G
> Component: STG.Bordnetz 5001
> Coding: 0000002
> ...


The parking lamp code should be self explanatory. There's a bulb burned out.

The intervention load management code is informational only. It means at some point in the past, the car needed to disable some energy-intensive accessories due to low voltage. You're pretty much guaranteed to see this in winter when you start up a frozen car, the battery is at its worst, and you start turning on defrost and seat heating and cabin heating and so forth. ILM is a whole separate complex topic. Don't worry about it now.



> Address 34: Level Control Labels: 3D0-907-553.lbl
> Part No: 3D0 907 553 B
> Component: LUFTFDR.-CDC- 3C1V0 1101
> Coding: 0017700
> ...


There's your suspension problem. This post is getting pretty damn long so I'll point you to this resource and let you take a look on your own. Let us know if you would like further help. I'm thinking this one should be solve-able without outrageous expense.

http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_275_d1.pdf



> Address 38: Roof Electronics Labels: 3D0-907-135.lbl
> Part No: 3D0 907 135 B
> Component: Dachmodul 0605
> Coding: 0000015
> ...


Probably nothing, probably just low-voltage related. Get yourself a new VPS battery, clear and monitor.



> Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 3D0-959-933.lbl
> Part No: 3D0 959 933 E
> Component: 6P HSG 3211
> Coding: 0000040
> ...


Interesting. Does your car make any noise when you lock it, a confirmation beep? If not, I wonder if someone decided to disable it the Hard Way. It can be disabled in the adaptation blocks too, but that isn't what happened here. I wonder if they had trouble with false theft alarms and cut or disabled something, or took out a fuse. Just theorizing.



> Address 47: Sound System Labels: 7Lx-035-4xx-47.lbl
> Part No: 3D0 035 466
> Component: 12K-AUDIOVERST 0115
> Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
> ...


The amplifier in the back is telling you one of the speakers is broken. It's kind of common for a wire to break on the back of the bass speakers. There's a writeup somewhere around here showing how to find it and fix it.



> Address 68: Wiper Electr. Labels: 3D1-955-119.lbl
> Part No: 3D1 955 119
> Component: Front Wiper 2005
> Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
> ...


Could very well be a low-voltage problem with a weak VPS battery. As long as your wipers are working with the car running, just clear the code and monitor to see if it returns. I doubt it will.



> Address 76: Park Assist Labels: 3D0-919-283.lbl
> Part No: 3D0 919 283 C
> Component: 03 Einparkhilfe 0807
> Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
> ...


A fault was seen at one point with a couple of the park distance sensors, but not currently. I wouldn't bother trying to troubleshoot these until you have a fresh VPS battery and we know you don't have issues with low voltage. Clear codes and monitor.

*Problems due to incorrect control module coding:*



> Address 05: Acc/Start Auth. Labels: 3D0-909-13x-05.lbl
> Part No SW: 3D0 909 137 A HW: 5WK 470 19
> Component: Kessy 6700
> Revision: 67005614 Serial number: VWZ3Z0C7075885
> ...


No fault codes in the module itself, but it's coded as if it's installed in a V8 Phaeton with a 6-speed transmission. You have a W12 with a 5-speed. I'm willing to bet that's the real reason your instrument cluster can't show what gear you're in. You need to re-code this module from 0137452 (NAR V8 6-speed with keyless entry) to 0133356 (NAR W12 5-speed with keyless entry).



> Address 06: Seat Mem. Pass Labels: 3D0-959-759.lbl
> Part No: 3D0 959 759 B
> Component: Sitzmemory D1 BF 1401
> Coding: 0000003
> ...


These all go together. Someone has been fiddling with TPMS coding and Control Head (commonly referred to as J523 or Infotainment) coding. That's the central radio and navigation and climate computer in the center dash. The TPMS coding change isn't correct, but it isn't fatal either. The J523 coding is all zeroes, which is what it does when someone tries to recode it to a value it doesn't like or can't reconcile with what's installed. The TPMS module and the seat memory modules talk to the J523 for various reasons, and right now it doesn't know they're present, hence the communications failure codes.

Try to get that KESSY recode for the 5-speed transmission issue done first. Then, you should recode the TPMS module from 0010284 (W12 Europe) to 0010224 (W12 NAR). The only change should be the range of tire pressures it will accept as valid. Then, just because things are so weird on this car, we want to force a refresh of the installed device list. Open the CAN Gateway controller (address 19) and recode it to 0000006. That's what it already is, but it does cause a refresh of installed devices.

Finally, put the correct coding in your J523 at address 07. The correct coding for your car and installed options should be 0500305. With that done, the "Vehicle" button on your Infotainment unit should start doing something a little more useful. If the warning goes away, great. But you probably need to go through a re-learning cycle. Select 'new spec. pressures' to start a learning cycle and go for a drive. Once the TPMS system has gone through a learning cycle, the cluster warning should go away.

Jason


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

I think first things first, I'll be replacing the fan or get it properly aligned. As well as the VCDS battery. Does anyone have any recommendations as to where I can source the battery? 
At the end of the month, I'll get Ross Tech's system.


----------



## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

W12Canada said:


> I think first things first, I'll be replacing the fan or get it properly aligned. As well as the VCDS battery. Does anyone have any recommendations as to where I can source the battery?
> At the end of the month, I'll get Ross Tech's system.


Sorry, I forgot you're not up to speed on all the Phaeton lingo yet. 

When I refer to the VPS battery, that's the Vehicle Power Supply battery. It's a big 12 volt AGM (absorbed glass mat) battery in the trunk that does everything but actually start the car. There's a second battery that does just that duty. This thread will show you which is which, and how to replace them:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5601569

Expected lifetime for the VPS battery is 5-6 years. They're AGM and they're big, so they're a bit pricey. My dealer here in the US wants about $220. People have tried other brands before and had.. mixed results. If you decide to try a non-VW battery, be sure you get an AGM type of battery. Standard FLA (flooded lead acid) batteries will have a bit lower baseline voltage and much less tolerance to deep cycling, both of which are a real bad idea in the VPS battery role.

The starter battery is a bit smaller and cheaper, and you have more flexibility for getting a battery other than at the dealer. It leads an easier life, and if it starts having trouble you still have an emergency-start capability using the VPS battery. So, you don't have to be as concerned about that one.

Jason


----------



## Expoman (May 15, 2011)

W12Canada said:


> I think first things first, I'll be replacing the fan or get it properly aligned. As well as the VCDS battery. Does anyone have any recommendations as to where I can source the battery?
> At the end of the month, I'll get Ross Tech's system.


Don't compromise on the VPS battery, get the VW original. You truly can enter a world of Phaeton pain with a less than full spec battery, it controls all of the cars vital functions.

Best
Steven


----------



## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Seconded. (Everything). If Jason says it, it's worth doing!

Those radiator fans list $900 each so you might want to look for a simple reason it's scraping first.

Chris


----------



## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

This forum is bloody awesome.


----------



## Auzivision (Apr 19, 2007)

Wow, Jason is the Man! I know I haven't been paying attention in class (ie not following this forum as closely as I used to), but he is providing spot on advise and has been a member for a while. 

Regarding Batteries, as I shudder... I'd vote WM dealership as well. My was replaced by an interdependent shop when in for other repairs. I agreed to the price only to find out later that was just the material cost and not installation. So I ended up with an Interstate battery (which is performing fine), but in the end it cost MORE than the dealership.

No doubt about it, it's an expensive battery that if very key to many system functioning correctly. I still 'top it off' quarterly mainly out of habit.


----------



## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

Just to be clear, I recommend the original VW battery as well. But, the owner has some price sensitivity, so I was trying to be open about where it's okay to go third-party or aftermarket (batteries *IF* type and specs are matched) and where it's not (VCDS).

Jason


----------



## Auzivision (Apr 19, 2007)

A word smith I am not and I agree that any brand battery that meets size and spec is ok. What I was suggesting, at least in my case, there aren't a lot of cost competitive alternatives. At least I never found any in my searches...IIRC that included Costco, Sears, Walmart, Autozone, and Advanced Auto Parts. So in hind sight, I wish I purchased mine from VW. YMMV


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Perhaps I was a bit unclear. As long as my monthly budget doesn't go over, I'm fine with buying what's needed for my car. My Range Rover cost me $7k in the last 4 months so I don't want to go through the same experience again. I was asking if there was a place I can source it online or somewhere because my dealer told me to wait 4-8 weeks as they have to be special ordered from Germany.


----------



## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

https://www.1stvwparts.com/partscat.html

I've also found that my local dealer will match online prices.


----------



## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

The 330A and 480A ones on 1stVW web site don't look expensive enough to be AGM... but I don't know for sure.

To help, here is the tech spec for the factory 850 Amps CCA left battery (V10 also uses it for the right battery) in its current manufacturing form, short Varta code G14:

http://www.varta-automotive.com/ind...01085B512&application=PKW&modellinetype=19796

I had a look but can't find anything similar on Canadian web sites, particularly in respect of the B13 hold-down molding. Also, all the AGM ones I saw on ebay.ca were quite expensive, more than $250.

Chris


----------



## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Their prices look about right to me, assuming the W12 has the same LH battery as the V8. My dealer charged me $274 for the LH battery and $122 for the RH battery.


----------



## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

OK, sounds good... I just paid £310 for two of the Varta G14s in UK inc delivery & VAT. Regional differences I guess.

Chris


----------



## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Ouch!


----------



## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

invisiblewave said:


> Ouch!


£310 for two, delivered, is a good price!
Club 2P members often do things in twos!


----------



## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

n968412L said:


> £310 for two, delivered, is a good price!
> Club 2P members often do things in twos!


Polygamy???

Stu


----------



## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

I don't think it's _that _sort of GTG...


----------



## Paldi (Sep 4, 2004)

Phaegamy


----------



## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

Hmmm - a harem of Phaetons......


----------



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hi Kevin:

Thanks for posting the diagnostic scan, that gives all of us a great deal of information to work with.

Jason has done a superb job of identifying a number of issues for you in his recent post (post #47), and I will not repeat what he has said there.  I do have a few thoughts to add, though:

*1) *For sure, go buy a genuine Ross-Tech diagnostic cable, and begin using the most recent version (I think it is 11.1 or similar) of the Ross-Tech VCDS software. Owning such a diagnostic tool will save you thousands of dollars and hours and hours of time. So, getting it should be your very first (and highest) priority.

*2)* Your diagnostic scan shows a number of 'low voltage' or 'high voltage' faults that are not tagged as intermittent. This leads me to speculate that the engine was not running when you carried out the scan. Always start the car and have the engine running throughout the whole scan.

*3)* It would be very useful if, after having carried out that first scan, you used the 'clear all fault codes' function to erase everything, then ran a second scan to see what persists. Doing that often sorts the wheat from the chaff. But, be sure you always save copies of both scans (the before and the after), because you will want to have all the records on hand (forever) for analysis down the road if a particular problem arises and you want to look at the past history of that component.

*4)* Your engine readiness code (basically, an indication of the health of the car so far as emissions control compliance is concerned) shows up as 8 zeros in the controller 01 (master engine controller) section, that is a perfect score and you should be quite relieved that there are no problems present with the catalytic converters, the mass airflow sensors, and so forth.

*5) *You have software 6700 in your access and start controller (controller 07), that indicates that this controller has been replaced once in your car, that is a good thing. You have the newest and most trouble-free version of this controller.

*6)* You have software 0188 in your big front information display and control head (the screen between the two front seats. If this device has a hard-key labelled PHONE, then it would benefit from a software update. If it does not have a hard-key labelled PHONE, but instead has two buttons, one labelled MAP and the other labelled NAV SET, then you are at the newest software level for that device. 

For reasons unknown, that big front information display and control head (controller 07) is not coded correctly. You can fix that by entering *0500305 *as the coding, then saving that.

*7)* Your car needs the flash-update of the instrument cluster controller (controller 17) from software version 0412 to software version 0421. This can be accomplished at a VW dealer, expect to pay between an hour and 1.5 hours labour to get the job done. Please see this thread for a full explanation: TB: Distortion in the Display Unit in the Instrument Cluster (MFI, or Y24). Print out the technical bulletin (TB) in post #9 of that thread and take it with you to the dealer. When you go there, don't ask for an instrument cluster software update (that will just confuse the staff), instead, tell them you are seeing distortion in the little display between the speedometer and the tachometer, and you need that TB carried out to fix it. If you want more information about this for your own benefit, see this post: click here.

*8) *The speed-sensor fault reported for controller 47 is spurious, and will be cleared when you get the instrument cluster software updated as described directly above.

Your navigation controller (controller 47) software also needs to be flash-updated. But, this is a tricky process and there are considerable perils associated with doing it if you have the older front information display and control head (controller 07) with the MAP and NAV SET buttons on it. So, for the time being, let us know what buttons you have on your J523 (PHONE or MAP and NAV SET), and don't take any action on a nav controller software update. Instead, begin reading this thread to become familiar with the issues: Navigation System inaccurate, gets lost, does not show correct vehicle position. That is a very long post, with many references to other discussions. It will probably take you a whole evening to read it all and get your head wrapped around it. Believe me, you need to have as good an understanding of the concepts and concerns presented there as the software experts in Dresden have before you proceed further, otherwise, you could unintentionally screw things up quite badly.

So - don't take any action on the navigation controller software just yet, instead, start reading and don't stop until you have attained a knowledge level equivalent to a Ph.D in Phaeton software.

*9)* The 'alarm horn' problem in controller 46 is probably a result of the alarm horn being disconnected at some time in the past. This is not a major concern, it can be solved by re-connecting the horn. See this post, and the links to other discussions contained in this post: alarm lock beep sound. You will want to combine the task of investigating that alarm horn connection together with Cleaning the Air Intake Plenum and also inspecting the windshield wiper pantographs and lubricating the bushings in the pantographs. 

*10) * An explanation about how to fix the bass speaker (fault reported in controller 47) can be found here: Interior Door Panel Removal -- Bass Speaker Broken Wire Repair. After you repair the wire, don't turn your volume control up to full blast to impress your friends, that just runs the risk of causing another fracture in a bass speaker wire.

*11) *Wiper controller, rear seat controller: I suspect those problems are spurious and will clear once you get the instrument cluster controller (controller 17) updated to software ending in 21. The software you have in your instrument cluster (ending in 12) has known communications timing problems when talking to other controllers - hence I suggest you first get that instrument cluster controller updated (that is the second highest priority task for you, second only to getting a genuine VAG-COM cable), then, clear all the fault codes everywhere and see what remains.

*12) *TPMS controller - that is a whole topic of its own, I don't want to get into discussing it here.

*13)* Park Distance Control faults - you have a couple of inoperative sensors in your bumper. The only way to fix these is to replace them. It is expensive and a PITA that requires removal of the rear bumper cover. Leave that project for later.

Regards,

Michael


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Paximus said:


> Hi (sorry, I don't know your name),
> 
> Your list will make for interesting diagnostics. The dealer bill would be vast, but with the help of the folks here it could be a fun project. As a reminder to myself, this is your list;
> 
> ...



I will most likely be going through an independent VW/Audi specialist in the area. The dealers here seem to be quite clueless and really dislike their attitude on the phone and face to face.

The oil was completely drained and I filled about 12L of Castrol Syntec in it (was told that the required spec was 11.6 or 11.8. Can't recall at the moment.

I opened my glovebox and a I saw a TPMS sensor inside. I'm assuming that the fault is from the lack of the one TPMS sensor installed.

I'll be buying RossTech's VCDS at the end of the month. 

I'll take a video of the ticking fan tomorrow afternoon and upload it to Youtube.





PanEuropean said:


> If that means you are budgeting $6,000 to $9,000 per year for repairs, then that will probably be sufficient, assuming you drive the car 20,000 km a year. The fly in the ointment is that some single repairs are very expensive, hence you might wind up using up your whole budget in one month.
> 
> To be able to provide any useful guidance about how to prioritize repairs, you will need to get a diagnostic scan of the car done. You can buy a tool to do this (called a VAG-COM or VCDS) for about $300. Consider that tool to be an absolutely essential 'price of admission' to owning your car. There is a VAG-COM (VCDS) forum here on Vortex you can visit to get more information, and of course you can also go to Ross-Tech's website (www.ross-tech.com) and get information there.
> 
> ...


The car is currently my daily driver because it doesn't fit in my garage (too long).
I've rented a garage for 6 months (take possession on Dec 1) for $150/month to store the Phaeton in. I plan on driving it 2-3 times a week and fill up every other week. I have an '09 Hyundai Sonata V6 as a daily driver. The garage also has an electric outlet so I may be investing in a garage heater as well as getting an engine block heater installed and leaving it plugged in 24/7 or on a timer.

If need be, I'm capable of spending more as my Range Rover cost me $7000 in 4 months of ownership. 




Paldi said:


> Hi Michael.
> 
> This Canadian fellow (and his W12) needs a visit!
> 
> ...


I'd welcome a visit. I'll treat you to dinner. I'm a big fan of steak and there's a Keg right beside my office and the filet mignon there is pretty good.




EnglishPhaeton said:


> Just a thought............
> 
> LH Battery as a starting point then clear DTC's?
> 
> Stu


LH Battery is the VPS battery I'm assuming?
I may have to order it from the dealer as I'm having a rough time locating parts for my Phaeton online.




jyoung8607 said:


> That Canadian fellow needs to tell us what paint care products he's using.  I have the Klavierlack finish too but I can't get that polished mirror look.


I don't use paint care products. I wash my car every time I take it out. The paint condition of my Phaeton is subpar as I can see lots of scratches that'll need to be buffed out.



cowboy_ said:


> My thoughts exactly!  Probably we need a polish first.


Yes!



Auzivision said:


> Oil is the most critical item on the list. Make absolutely certain the level is correct on the dip stick (or at least close/visible). The loose oil filter housing doesn't sound good either. However, if the oil level is correct it's possible that the oil level sensor is defective... not a big deal. Missing skip plate sounds like what I would call a belly pan. If so, I'd Put that on medium to high priority because you don't want dirt and water constantly splashing up.
> 
> The ticking noise behind radiator would be my second concern behind the oil. Could be minor like something slightly out of line to moderate like serpentine belt, pulley, etc getting ready to go, or something major like fan hitting the radiator which could cause a leak. Whatever you do, under no circumstance run an engine that isn't being cooled properly. I'd argue that running out of coolant is probably worse than running out of oil by at least 10X.
> 
> ...


I'll be checking the oil level tomorrow. Car sounds and drives fine so I'm assuming that the oil level is where it should be.

After Dec 1, I won't be driving the car as often so I think it'll be a medium priority for me.

Coolant is level and seems to be new (have been tested).

Brakes feel very strong so I think there's still lots of life left. As well, the seller told me that the brake lines were changed as well as the pads and rotors in the last month.

Purchased replacement bulbs a couple of days ago. Should be here in a few weeks. Since the DRLs on the car are run through the low beams (HID/Xenon lights) it's about time that they died. I usually turn on the fog lights at night to drive for the additional lighting.

TPMS is just additional luxury for me. Most of my cars didn't even have TPMS so this is on the bottom of my list and I may just disable it.

Car is at the normal level and I've raised it from time to time because of the snow here. Seems to go up and down just fine so I'm glad that it's not an air suspension issue ($$$$$$$).

Keyfob working within 1 feet of the car is 30-40% of the time. Driver's side button doesn't work but all other passenger doors work so that's what I'm using right now to lock the car. Sometimes, the car thinks the key is inside and unlocks itself even though I locked it from the outside.
Touched the VW emblem. Pushed it, tried to turn it and it never opens to boot.

I filled the washer fluid right away with Rain-X all season -50oC fluid.




invisiblewave said:


> There's a ride height sensor on each wheel, they do fail occasionally. I think it's a physical arm that moves, so bumps causing the problem might make sense. You'll probably need a scan to find out which one it is though.
> 
> Not sure about the W12, but the temperature gauge on the V8 never fluctuates. There's been discussion that the gauges don't even register the actual values, but are software controlled and only move when there's a problem.
> 
> The transmission sounds worrying. I'd have that looked at sooner rather than later. A fluid change isn't cheap, but it costs a lot less than a new transmission.


I read somewhere online in a forum (perhaps VWVortex?) that the oil temps fluctuate on the W12 and that it's normal. I'm looking at getting a transmission flush + the front/rear diff + transfer case fluid soon.



Paximus said:


> I suspect that if your W12 drives well, regardless of the warning lights, you should be enjoying that 'Phaeton Grin'!
> 
> An OBD-II scanner won't do the job, it only retrieves emissions related data. You need access to a VAG-COM cable. It's possible that you can extend the USB plug on the VAG-COM using BlueTooth but I haven't heard of it being done, and in any case the cable does a good job right to the laptop.
> 
> ...


Started with a frown.. but the more I drive it and look at it, the bigger my smile seems to get.
Someone changed the name of this thread so I guess I'll be posting my progress in this thread.




Auzivision said:


> Engine temp 200 or less is great. Oil temp really isn't that relevant, although with the W12's 3 gallons it does act a secondary heat exchanger. Oil temp bouncing around under 160 wouldn't concern me. To me oil pressure is more critical, but it pretty much directly related to temp and viscosity.
> 
> Not sure what “transmission feels like it needs a fluid replaced” means? To me if it shift from park to reverse to neutral to drive and back without unusual delay, vibrations, noises, etc that’s good. Clanks, clunks, delays, etc not so much. The other seat of pants tranny test is to drive it while pay attention to shift points. Should be smooth, timely, and at appropriate RPM for given conditions. Things like slipping, jerking, clanking, shifting too soon, or too late are telltales of possible problems. There is a specific procedure to servicing these trannies. Getting them refilled to the proper level is key.
> 
> Possibly, if you can, post some pictures of the oil filter bracket and keep us posted on your progress.


Bounces under 200 and has never gone over it so I'm going to assume that it's working correctly.
A few gear changes seemed a little rough. Similar to how my Hyundai and Range Rover felt when it needed a fluid change. But as of now, it's really smooth. I guess she needed to get used to my driving style. The car did feel like it was some what restricted but after driving it everyday, I think it's because of how heavy the car is.


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

jyoung8607 said:


> Sorry, I forgot you're not up to speed on all the Phaeton lingo yet.
> 
> When I refer to the VPS battery, that's the Vehicle Power Supply battery. It's a big 12 volt AGM (absorbed glass mat) battery in the trunk that does everything but actually start the car. There's a second battery that does just that duty. This thread will show you which is which, and how to replace them:
> 
> ...


I'll be getting the VPS battery ASAP.



Expoman said:


> Don't compromise on the VPS battery, get the VW original. You truly can enter a world of Phaeton pain with a less than full spec battery, it controls all of the cars vital functions.
> 
> Best
> Steven


If it's anything like my Range Rover, I would prefer paying more for a quality replacement. I'll go OEM.



Paximus said:


> Seconded. (Everything). If Jason says it, it's worth doing!
> 
> Those radiator fans list $900 each so you might want to look for a simple reason it's scraping first.
> 
> Chris


$900 isn't too bad for something major like that. I'll see if it's something that can be fixed before purchasing a replacement.



invisiblewave said:


> This forum is bloody awesome.


I agree!



Auzivision said:


> Wow, Jason is the Man! I know I haven't been paying attention in class (ie not following this forum as closely as I used to), but he is providing spot on advise and has been a member for a while.
> 
> Regarding Batteries, as I shudder... I'd vote WM dealership as well. My was replaced by an interdependent shop when in for other repairs. I agreed to the price only to find out later that was just the material cost and not installation. So I ended up with an Interstate battery (which is performing fine), but in the end it cost MORE than the dealership.
> 
> No doubt about it, it's an expensive battery that if very key to many system functioning correctly. I still 'top it off' quarterly mainly out of habit.


The reason as to why I was asking if I could source a battery online is because I'm planning on getting it serviced at an independent VW/Audi specialist and I don't think they carry proper batteries.



jyoung8607 said:


> Just to be clear, I recommend the original VW battery as well. But, the owner has some price sensitivity, so I was trying to be open about where it's okay to go third-party or aftermarket (batteries *IF* type and specs are matched) and where it's not (VCDS).
> 
> Jason


Original VW I think is the way to go.



PanEuropean said:


> Hi Kevin:
> 
> Thanks for posting the diagnostic scan, that gives all of us a great deal of information to work with.
> 
> ...


1. So is the cable that I need the $350 one? What are the differences in the different cables? Compatibility?

2. Asked the guy if I should turn the engine on and run the scan and he told me that it wasn't necessary so I didn't.

3. I'll be doing that when I purchase the cable.

4. That's a relief.

5. That's great to hear!

6. I have the MAP and NAV SET. I wish I had a bluetooth option as the navigation system in this car (the software, not the map) is really outdated.

7. I'll get it done soon. I'll go talk to the VW dealer on Tuesday.

8. I've never seen a speed sensor fault come up or not sure what it applies to but if it's one more thing that gets fixed, then great!

9. I think someone mentioned this before but no, my horn doesn't sound when I lock or unlock the car.

10. My musical tastes are very eclectic and I mostly stick to classical music or audiobooks.

11. Wiper works fine so so I'm assuming it's a software issue as well.

12. TPMS, not an issue for me nor do I really care for.

13. The PDC seems to work fine... though they tend to have issues during cold temperatures.


----------



## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

I was quite concerned when you first described the car, it seemed like you were in for a busy and expensive time getting it stable.

But after all the great analysis here, it sounds like you have a good car which only needs some updating and a few bits here and there. Good news.

Best,
Chris


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Here's a picture showing the Nav + Nav Set buttons.


----------



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

W12Canada said:


> I opened my glovebox and a I saw a TPMS sensor inside. I'm assuming that the fault is from the lack of the one TPMS sensor installed.


It could be that, or; it could be that the control module in the trunk (just above the left battery) has been disconnected. In any case, you said that TPMS was not a priority for you, so just ignore it. Chances are that all 5 of the sensors in the wheels of your car have time-expired (the batteries only last about 8 years), and it would be expensive as heck to replace all of those - they are about $150 each.

You indicated that you will not be using the Phaeton every day, so, better if you spend $35 on a really high quality BluePoint tire pressure gauge, and you can be the tire pressure monitoring system!



W12Canada said:


> I'll be buying RossTech's VCDS at the end of the month.


Great, give Ross-Tech a phone call, tell them you have a 2004 Phaeton, they will tell you what cable you need. You can trust those people, they won't try to sell you anything you don't need.



W12Canada said:


> The garage also has an electric outlet so I may be investing in a garage heater as well as getting an engine block heater installed and leaving it plugged in 24/7 or on a timer.


The only kind of engine heater you can fit to a W12 would be an oil pan heater. You can get one of these from your VW dealer. They are self-adhesive and stick to the bottom of the oil pan. They work very well - they keep the oil in the sump at a warm temperature so you get lubrication the moment you crank the engine. Plus, the heat from the oil rises up through the rest of the engine (via convection) and if the car is parked out of the wind, the whole engine compartment will warm up nicely because of that big insulating pad under the hood.

What you really need in the garage - far more important than an engine heater - is a battery maintainer. See this post: NAPA Battery Maintainer for a Phaeton (Includes TB 00-03-11, 27–04–01, and 27–06–06). Make sure the maintainer is suitable for an AGM battery. I am pretty sure I bought the one shown in the photo at Canadian Tire - for about $50. If it comes down to a choice between an oil pan heater and a battery maintainer, go for the battery maintainer first, without a moment of hesitation.



W12Canada said:


> I'd welcome a visit. I'll treat you to dinner. I'm a big fan of steak and there's a Keg right beside my office and the filet mignon there is pretty good.


I occasionally get to Calgary, because my employer has a large manufacturing plant there (we build aircraft). I'll send you a PM (private message) next time I know I have to go to Calgary. By the same token, if you ever plan to travel to Vancouver Island, let me know.



W12Canada said:


> Purchased replacement bulbs a couple of days ago. Should be here in a few weeks. Since the DRLs on the car are run through the low beams (HID/Xenon lights) it's about time that they died. I usually turn on the fog lights at night to drive for the additional lighting.


Headlight bulb replacement on a W12 is a fairly tough job, I suggest you don't tackle that one as your very first DIY project. If the lights work today, leave them be until the springtime when the weather is such that you can comfortably work on the car outside.



W12Canada said:


> Keyfob working within 1 feet of the car is 30-40% of the time.


That might be something as simple as replacing the button batteries in the key fob. You can get replacement batteries at any large electronics store (Best Buy, Future Shop, probably even Shoppers Drug Mart). See this post for instructions: How to change the battery in the key fob (includes TB 57-06-03).



W12Canada said:


> Driver's side button doesn't work but all other passenger doors work so that's what I'm using right now to lock the car. Sometimes, the car thinks the key is inside and unlocks itself even though I locked it from the outside.


Likely that is because water has got inside the rubber button on the driver door handle. There is no easy fix for that, the door handle has to be replaced, and that is a PITA not only because of the dis-assembly but also because you have to get the door handle painted before you install it. The problem with the car thinking the key is inside is related to the problem with the driver door handle button.




W12Canada said:


> Touched the VW emblem. Pushed it, tried to turn it and it never opens to boot.


Chances are that whoever put the trunk logo (emblem) on upside down did not connect the wire from that assembly to the car's wiring harness. That should be simple to fix, there is a post in the Phaeton Forum 'Table of Contents' (FAQ by Category) that explains the process step-by-step.



W12Canada said:


> I read somewhere online in a forum (perhaps VWVortex?) that the oil temps fluctuate on the W12 and that it's normal.


Uh, no, in fact, exactly the opposite - the oil takes a long time to warm up (this due to the very large mass of the engine), but once it warms up, it just stays at 90°C forever. If your oil temperature is fluctuating, you probably have a sensor problem. It is highly unlikely that the oil temperature itself would vary - one of the primary purposes of all that oil is to remove heat from the 6 cylinders that are in the middle two banks of the 'W'.



W12Canada said:


> I'm looking at getting a transmission flush + the front/rear diff + transfer case fluid soon.


Uh, respectfully, I suggest you wait a while until you have done a lot more reading here in the forum. The process of changing transmission fluid in the 5 speed transmission used with the W12 engine is not rocket science, but the instructions have to be followed EXACTLY, otherwise, you will cause more harm than you will do good. So, just sit tight on that project until you have thoroughly read everything you can find on the subject (start here: Changing Transmission Fluid on the 5 speed (FGE) Transmission (W12 Engine)), and don't get the work done until you have found a shop where there is a technician you trust 100% to read and follow directions! The tech will also need a diagnostic scan tool (he/she can use your VAG-COM), and a hand-held infrared thermometer (to aim at the transmission oil pan, to measure temperature).



W12Canada said:


> Started with a frown.. but the more I drive it and look at it, the bigger my smile seems to get.


It is a delightful car. I have exactly the same model you have - a 2004 W12, black with a beige interior.



W12Canada said:


> Someone changed the name of this thread so I guess I'll be posting my progress in this thread.


That was me. I sometimes change thread titles to facilitate future searches for the threads.

Michael


----------



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Kevin:

Take a moment to read this thread: Broken Oil Dipstick - W12 Engine, then, go compare the distal end of the dipstick in your car with the photos you will find on that thread.

Dipsticks are cheap, about $8 I think.

Michael


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

PanEuropean said:


> Kevin:
> 
> Take a moment to read this thread: Broken Oil Dipstick - W12 Engine, then, go compare the distal end of the dipstick in your car with the photos you will find on that thread.
> 
> ...


Will do, today.

Also, regarding the battery in key fob issue, I have stated that it has been replaced already.
As well, 5 foot steps away from the vehicle, the keyfob working is 0%


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

I remember my dip stick being a little longer than your broken one but not as long as the new one in the picture. I don't ever remember seeing a hole on the end of the dipstick.

I called the dealer today. Takes 5-7 business days to order one for $29.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Kevin:

Attached is a Technical Bulletin (TB) that describes a campaign carried out on early production (2003, 2004, some 2005) Phaetons in all regions of the world except North America.

The dipstick replacement is mentioned in criteria 4 of the campaign.

This campaign won't do you any good so far as getting any free work or warranty work done by VW, but it might be of interest to you as a 'checklist' of things to do on your car. In earlier discussion, I already noted that you need to get your instrument cluster software flash-updated - that is criteria 6.

I think you wrote that you do not have a lower engine cover on your car. If you ever elect to order a replacement cover, remove the small plastic boss on the cover as described in criteria 3 before installing it. The process for doing that is fully illustrated here: TB: 00-06-02 and 37-07-08 - W12 (only!) Underbody Cover Attachment Modification.

Some (not all) early production Phaetons had problems with the shiny black trim strips on the doors (aft upper edge of the front door, forward upper edge of the rear door, rear part of the rear door between the two window panes) corroding. If you encounter that problem with your car, it might still be covered under the rust warranty, which I believe is a 12 year warranty in Canada (check your owner manual). The fix for that problem is described in criteria 2. In North America, the fix for that problem was promulgated as a different TB, you can find it here: TB 66-06-02 (NAR) or Campaign 66C4 (ROW) - Exterior Pillar Trim Corrosion on Phaeton Doors.

Michael


----------



## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

PanEuropean said:


> It could be that, or; it could be that the control module in the trunk (just above the left battery) has been disconnected. In any case, you said that TPMS was not a priority for you, so just ignore it. Chances are that all 5 of the sensors in the wheels of your car have time-expired (the batteries only last about 8 years), and it would be expensive as heck to replace all of those - they are about $150 each.
> 
> You indicated that you will not be using the Phaeton every day, so, better if you spend $35 on a really high quality BluePoint tire pressure gauge, and you can be the tire pressure monitoring system!


His TPMS controller was awake and responding, it's in his auto-scan. It was throwing a DTC for communications trouble. I think it's just having trouble talking to his J523 due to the bogus J523 coding, just like the seat controllers (I think the VCDS error text was misleading; it can't be having communications problems with itself). That one problem is easily fixable. But, as you rightly point out, there's an excellent chance he has dead TPMS sensors. Couldn't say without getting it up and running and then poking at it more with VCDS.

Kevin, if you want to just remove TPMS from the car entirely, follow these three steps:



Remove fuse SC11 in the fuse block above your VPS battery, de-powering the control module. When you do this, the instrument cluster will complain about a TPMS fault, but it's already doing that so you may see no effect.
With VCDS, login to address 19 (CAN gateway) and re-code to *0000006*. This refreshes the list of installed devices. The TPMS controller will fall off the list, and the instrument cluster will stop complaining. That will clear all the driver-perceived TPMS complaints.
With VCDS, login to address 07 (Control Head, J523) and re-code to *0500105*. This configures it without TPMS control capability. Please note this is different from the coding that Michael and I recommended earlier (0500305) which does reflect TPMS installed. Driver perceived behavior is pretty much the same, an "unavailable" message will be displayed if the driver asks for TPMS info, but it will prevent unnecessary fault codes from popping up in VCDS.


Here is another thread with more discussion about disabling TPMS.

Jason

Diagram of fuse block SC showing how to find fuse SC11:


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Thanks for the help again!

Just a quick question. When I purchase the VCDS, would it work on Bentleys?
My grandfather owns a 2006 Bentley Continental Flying Spur and I would love to tinker around with the settings. I think sometime next year, I'll also get the push button start because I find it pointless to unlock the door using the kessy system only to take the key out when I sit inside. I believe PanEuropean did this mod to his car because I remember reading a thread on VWVortex


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Also, I may have the oil pan heater installed already as during cold start (-10 to -15 weather), it takes 30 seconds and the engine RPM goes to idle.


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## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

W12Canada said:


> Thanks for the help again!
> 
> Just a quick question. When I purchase the VCDS, would it work on Bentleys?
> My grandfather owns a 2006 Bentley Continental Flying Spur and I would love to tinker around with the settings. I think sometime next year, I'll also get the push button start because I find it pointless to unlock the door using the kessy system only to take the key out when I sit inside. I believe PanEuropean did this mod to his car because I remember reading a thread on VWVortex


Hi Kevin,

Yes the VCDS does work with Bentley Continental models.

Stu


----------



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

W12Canada said:


> Just a quick question. When I purchase the VCDS, would it work on Bentleys?
> 
> My grandfather owns a 2006 Bentley Continental Flying Spur...


Kevin:

The Bentley CFS and the Phaeton are the same darn car, even more similar to each other than the Golf and the Jetta. If you go sit in the Bentley CFS, you will no doubt surprised to discover that every single control that you can touch, and every single indication that you see is identical to the Phaeton. The surface treatment of the controls and indications might be slightly different (heck, it ought to be for the $100,000 price difference), but electrically and mechanically, the cars are virtually identical, other than the Bentley having a turbocharged engine.

Here's a picture I took some years ago on the production line in Dresden - take a close look at the fractionally different grille installed on the 'Phaeton' at the left side of the picture... 

Michael


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Michael,

Thanks for posting that interesting photo, I have not seen it before!

Chris


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

I may have been mistaken. Looks like my dip stick isn't broken after all.


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Another miraculous event occurred just now as well. My shifter seems to have corrected itself.









My Range Rover was the only car that I owned that also "Magically" repaired itself.

Kevin


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Kevin:

It looks like the cover on the driver side of your engine is not quite installed properly - it appears that the insulating blanket (silver thing) that keeps heat away from the driver side air intake plenum is somehow caught up over top of the mass airflow sensor (MAF) on the left side.

Have a look at the photo below, then compare with the photo of my engine below that. Disregard the text on my photo, I just lifted that photo out of the Water in Front Footwell (Cleaning Air Intake Plenum and Sunroof Drains) discussion because it happens to show both side covers installed, and both MAFs are visible.

Michael

Kevin's Car*
*









*Michael's Car*


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Are you sure? Here's a clearer picture.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

See picture below.

Michael


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

.


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

I'm off work in a couple hours. I'll check it out when I get home.


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## Jxander (Aug 5, 2008)

I have a V8 and not a W12 as you are discussing. However, I have a silver insulation pad on both sides of my V8s air intake in the general area that you are noting. It appears that it covers the area on the air filter box that is closest to the hot exhaust manifold. It has chrome snaps that connect it to the box. Being the cynic I am, I would expect many mechanics dispose of this insulating piece when changing the air filters as it is a bit of a nuisance to snap it back on. So I wouldn't be surprised if many Phaetons don't have them installed.

Jim X


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)




----------



## Jxander (Aug 5, 2008)

Sorry but that's not at all like the V8. So ignore my earlier post. 

Jim X


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## tomasty (May 24, 2011)

Looks like to me they somehow damaged the connector and tried to use the tapes to cover it up.

Tomas


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Checked the oil level today. Seems to be fine. Going to be performing the software update next week.


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## Auzivision (Apr 19, 2007)

Looks like heat shield material out of place to me. Might be as simple as removing cover and correcting position.


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)




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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Stays at 3000 rpm going at 50mph/80km/h on my way home.


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Turns out I apparently bumped the shifter into manual mode. Just got home, and restarted the car. CEL stayed on.


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

I also ordered the Ross-Tech System.

VCHUC VCDS License with HEX-USB+CAN Interface 1 $349.00 $349.00
Shipping and Handling: FedEx International Priority: $47.49
Sales Tax: $0.00
Total: $396.49

I'm hoping that I ordered the correct module.


----------



## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

> VCHUC VCDS License with HEX-USB+CAN Interface


Hi Kevin,

That's the one I have. Good progress...

Chris


----------



## tomasty (May 24, 2011)

W12Canada said:


> Stays at 3000 rpm going at 50mph/80km/h on my way home.


PRNDS all lit up and your transmission jumped into Limp mode, meaning it stuck on 3rd gear and won't go any higher to prevent further damage to the transmission, **** to tiptronic doesn't lit up PRNDS, and it should up shift regardless if the RPM approach to red line, you might have a more serious problem with your transmssion than just electrical glitch, do you know if the ATF has ever been changed on this car?

Tomas


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Michael suggested that the in-dash display had the wrong coding and expected a different transmission to the one actually fitted, which would cause the problem.

I guess the software hasn't been updated and recoded yet?

Chris


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

If I recall correctly, it was the VPS battery that would correct the issue. I haven't had the time to head to the dealership yet but when I do, I'll order it.

I saw the first Phaeton that wasn't mine today.









(Cropped the photo for privacy reasons)
It was a V8. So far, haven't witnessed another W12 yet.


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## tomasty (May 24, 2011)

Kevin,

I am in Alberta as well, mine is a V8, what City are you in? I am in Medicine Hat, so far I have only seen one Phaeton in my City.

Tomas


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

I'm in Calgary. I've never been to Medicine Hat though I do plan on visiting sometime on my way to Winnepeg.


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## tomasty (May 24, 2011)

I go to Calgary quite often, have some friends in Calgary. Not a lot of Phaeton in Alberta here, there is only one VW dealer in Calgary has certified Phaeton tech, but I had a horriable experience with them. So I guess we are on our own for the most part. I have done most the regular maintenance myself (Change Oil, Change Air filter, Fuel filter, Spark Plugs, Rotate tires etc.)

Welcome to stop by and have a cup of tea when you pass Medicine Hat, I haven't seen a W12 in person yet and would love to see it.

Tomas


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Didn't know there was a Phaeton tech in Calgary. I go to my Range Rover specialist for all of my services as they're very friendly and almost feel like family. I stopped by there yesterday for a chat and to show them my Phaeton. One of the techs there told me that he's worked on lots of German cars and maintenance wouldn't be an issue for him though for major repairs, he may run into issues without a workshop manual. I envy your ability to do servicing yourself. I don't even know how to do an oil change. When it comes to computers though, I can tear it apart and perform upgrades without any issue. I probably won't be going to Medicine Hat anytime soon as I'm very occupied currently (I only sleep about 5-6 hours a day). Whenever you're in Calgary, I would love to treat you to dinner.

Kevin


----------



## tomasty (May 24, 2011)

Good to know you have a good relationship with a mechanic, hope you can keep it that way for a long time. Shop manual is very important for working on Phaeton, there are special procedures need to be followed as it is a very complex car, not following the manual will cause problem (eg: cracked bumper under headlight caused by not tightening bolts with correct sequence when removing\installing front bumper). You can get cheap version from eBay sometimes, but if you are serious, you can spend $1000 and ge the genuine Bentley Published repair Manual. Or get you mechanic to buy it.

And looks like we are in the same industry, I am in the IT field as well! I know we could be crazy busy sometimes, take care of yourself and get some sleep!

Tomas


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Took a quick nap.

Check Engine Light stayed on when I started it just now.

Also my VCDS is arriving tomorrow before noon!


----------



## tomasty (May 24, 2011)

W12Canada said:


> Took a quick nap.
> 
> Check Engine Light stayed on when I started it just now.
> 
> Also my VCDS is arriving tomorrow before noon!


VCDS will tell you a lot, we will see what it can find.

You have a Bentley Flying Spur seriously? it is almost identical to Phaeton.


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

tomasty said:


> VCDS will tell you a lot, we will see what it can find.
> 
> You have a Bentley Flying Spur seriously? it is almost identical to Phaeton.


It's my grand father's.


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Also, I just purchased a 2013 map disk for the Phaeton as well.


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)




----------



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Now you're in business... 

Michael


----------



## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

There are three things you need to properly run a Phaeton, (1) ignition key (2) this forum (3) that cable!

Chris

PS - 4 things - put Michael on the list


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

1 hour of driving (round-trip) + $30 in customs fees later... (I somehow missed the Fedex man)

I'm currently scanning the codes while running the engine. Will clear the codes then scan it again.

Will post both results.


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Thursday,22,November,2012,16:56:24:47697
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.4
Data version: 20120807



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Chassis Type: 3D - VW Phaeton D1
Scan: 01 02 03 05 06 07 08 09 11 13 15 16 17 18 19 23 27 28 29 2E
34 36 37 38 39 46 47 55 56 57 65 66 68 69 71 75 76 77

VIN: WVWAH63D948007583 Mileage: 172700km/107310miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 07C-906-018-BAP1.lbl
Part No SW: 07C 906 018 C HW: 
Component: D1-6.0L-AG-LEV G ?211 
Coding: 0000173
Shop #: WSC 39990 444 00648
VCID: 254135A9EF5B5730723

3 Faults Found:
18359 - Radiator Fan 2 (V177) 
P1951 - 002 - Movement Restricted / Jammed - Intermittent
16485 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) 
P0101 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
18331 - Please Check DTC Memory of ECU Number 2 
P1923 - 008 - 
Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 3D0-927-156.lbl
Part No: 3D0 927 156 N
Component: AG5 01L 6.0 W12 USA 1114 
Coding: 0001102
Shop #: WSC 13622 410 403014
VCID: 3365DBF1518F3980EC7

2 Faults Found:
18158 - Supply Voltage 
P1750 - 003 - too Low 
18265 - Load Signal 
P1857 - 003 - Error Message from ECU - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 3D0-614-517.lbl
Part No: 3D0 614 517 R
Component: ESP 5.7 allrad H33 0043 
Coding: 0008397
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 3169D1F9AB930B909EB

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 05: Acc/Start Auth. Labels: 3D0-909-13x-05.lbl
Part No SW: 3D0 909 137 A HW: 5WK 470 19
Component: Kessy 6700 
Revision: 67005614 Serial number: VWZ3Z0C7075885
Coding: 0137452
Shop #: WSC 07218 444 59231
VCID: 254135A9EF5B5730723

Part No: XXXXXXXXXXX 
Component: ELV XXXX

1 Fault Found:
01176 - Key 
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 06: Seat Mem. Pass Labels: 3D0-959-759.lbl
Part No: 3D0 959 759 B
Component: Sitzmemory D1 BF 1401 
Coding: 0000003
Shop #: WSC 97000 444 59175
VCID: 3561E5E95FFB27B0C23

1 Fault Found:
00477 - Control Module; Display & Input; Comfort CAN; Front (J523) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 07: Control Head Labels: 3D0-035-00x-07.lbl
Part No: 3D0 035 008 M
Component: ZAB COCKPIT 0188 
Coding: 0000000
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 244728ADE461AE3865D

2 Faults Found:
01044 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded 
000 - - 
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 3D0-907-040.lbl
Part No: 3D0 907 040 F
Component: Climatronic D1 1132 
Coding: 0000002
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 214921B9FB73BB100EB

1 Fault Found:
00229 - Refrigerant Pressure 
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 3D0-937-049-V1.clb
Part No: 3D0 937 049 G
Component: STG.Bordnetz  5001 
Coding: 0000002
Shop #: WSC 07208 444 54657
VCID: 2E53CA85BAAD1468839

2 Faults Found:
01498 - Bulb for Parking Lamps; Right (M3) 
010 - Open or Short to Plus
00907 - Intervention load Management 
000 - - 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 11: Engine II Labels: 07C-906-018-BAP2.lbl
Part No SW: 07C 906 018 C HW: 
Component: D1-6.0L-AG-LEV G ?211 
Coding: 0000173
Shop #: WSC 97000 444 00415
VCID: 254135A9EF5B5730723

2 Faults Found:
17489 - Mixture Regulation; Bank 3; Range 1 
P1081 - 001 - Lean Limit Exceeded - MIL ON
17493 - Mixture Regulation; Bank 4; Range 1 
P1085 - 001 - Lean Limit Exceeded - MIL ON

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 3D0-909-601.lbl
Part No: 3D0 909 601 D
Component: 0A Airbag 8.4E+ H07 0934 
Coding: 0012353
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 244728ADE461AE3865D

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel Labels: 3D0-953-549.lbl
Part No: 3D0 953 549 C
Component: Lenks?lenmodul 3301 
Coding: 0000232
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 2D51CD89B7AB6F70BA3

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 3D0-920-xxx-17.lbl
Part No: 3D0 920 981 G
Component: KOMBIINSTRUMENT RB4 0412 
Coding: 0008221
Shop #: WSC 97000 444 00007
VCID: 2B55C39189BF6140A47

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
Part No: 6N0 909 901 
Component: Gateway KCAN 0101 
Coding: 0000006
Shop #: WSC 07208 444 84825
VCID: F0EF94FDE019C298515

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 28: HVAC, Rear Labels: 3D0-919-158.lbl
Part No: 3D0 919 158 F
Component: Klima-Bedienteil D1 0117 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 2E53CA85BAAD1468839

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 29: Left Light Labels: 3D0-909-157.lbl
Part No: 3D0 909 157 
Component: EVG GDL+AutoLWR(l) X012 
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: E6C3F2A5D2DD1C283B9

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 34: Level Control Labels: 3D0-907-553.lbl
Part No: 3D0 907 553 B
Component: LUFTFDR.-CDC- 3C1V0 1101 
Coding: 0017700
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 264332A5925D5C287B9

1 Fault Found:
00143 - Right Front Dampening Adjustment Valve (N337) 
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 36: Seat Mem. Drvr Labels: 3D0-959-760.lbl
Part No: 3D0 959 760 B
Component: Sitzmemory D1 F 1401 
Coding: 0000004
Shop #: WSC 97000 444 53697
VCID: 2D51CD89B7AB6F70BA3

1 Fault Found:
00477 - Control Module; Display & Input; Comfort CAN; Front (J523) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 37: Navigation Labels: 3D0-919-887.lbl
Part No: 3D0 919 887 A
Component: NAVIGATION 0147 
Coding: 0400000
Shop #: WSC 07208 444 53476
VCID: 326BDEF5AE953088E71

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 38: Roof Electronics Labels: 3D0-907-135.lbl
Part No: 3D0 907 135 B
Component: Dachmodul 0605 
Coding: 0000015
Shop #: WSC 98765 666 30460
VCID: 224B2EB5FE75A008171

2 Faults Found:
00220 - Connection to Sunroof 
004 - No Signal/Communication
00403 - Sunroof Motor (V1) 
000 - - - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 39: Right Light Labels: 3D0-909-158.lbl
Part No: 3D0 909 158 
Component: EVG GDL+AutoLWR(r) X012 
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: E7DDFFA1D5D7052000F

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 3D0-959-933.lbl
Part No: 3D0 959 933 E
Component: 6P HSG 3211 
Coding: 0000040
Shop #: WSC 91511 999 12530
VCID: 326BDEF5AE953088E71

Part No: 3D1 959 701 E
Component: Tuersteuergeraet FS 0104

Part No: 3D1 959 702 E
Component: Tuersteuergeraet BF 0104

Part No: 3D0 959 703 E
Component: Tuersteuergeraet HL 0104

Part No: 3D0 959 704 E
Component: Tuersteuergeraet HR 0104

Part No: 3D0 909 610 B
Component: 3I HDSG 2320

Part No: 7L0 907 719 
Component: Neigungssensor 0020

1 Fault Found:
01134 - Alarm Horn (H12) 
004 - No Signal/Communication

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 47: Sound System Labels: 7Lx-035-4xx-47.lbl
Part No: 3D0 035 466 
Component: 12K-AUDIOVERST 0115 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: DFCDE7410D874DE0F8F

1 Fault Found:
00870 - Bass Speaker Front Left (R21) 
011 - Open Circuit

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 65: Tire Pressure Labels: 3D0-907-273.lbl
Part No: 3D0 907 273 C
Component: Reifendruckueberw. 0021 
Coding: 0010284
Shop #: WSC 64261 372 487215
VCID: 264332A5925D5C287B9

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 66: Seat, Rear Labels: 3D0-959-860.lbl
Part No: 3D0 959 860 B
Component: Sitzmemory D1 H 1513 
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 2E53CA85BAAD1468839

1 Fault Found:
00477 - Control Module; Display & Input; Comfort CAN; Front (J523) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 68: Wiper Electr. Labels: 3D1-955-119.lbl
Part No: 3D1 955 119 
Component: Front Wiper 2005 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: E6C3F2A5D2DD1C283B9

1 Fault Found:
00003 - Control Module 
014 - Defective

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 71: Battery Charger Labels: 3D0-915-181.lbl
Part No: 3D0 915 181 D
Component: Batteriemanagement 2800 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 244728ADE461AE3865D

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 75: Telematics Labels: 3D0-035-617.lbl
Part No SW: 3D0 035 617 HW: 3D0 035 617 
Component: Telematik NAR1 0101 
Coding: 0061860
Shop #: WSC 97000 444 59175
VCID: DDB1DD49078B5FF0EA3

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 76: Park Assist Labels: 3D0-919-283.lbl
Part No: 3D0 919 283 C
Component: 03 Einparkhilfe 0807 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 2A5BC695864578485F1

No fault code found.

End ---------------------------------------------------------------------


Codes seem to be the same as last time with exception to this one.

Address 11: Engine II Labels: 07C-906-018-BAP2.lbl
Part No SW: 07C 906 018 C HW: 
Component: D1-6.0L-AG-LEV G ?211 
Coding: 0000173
Shop #: WSC 97000 444 00415
VCID: 254135A9EF5B5730723

2 Faults Found:
17489 - Mixture Regulation; Bank 3; Range 1 
P1081 - 001 - Lean Limit Exceeded - MIL ON
17493 - Mixture Regulation; Bank 4; Range 1 
P1085 - 001 - Lean Limit Exceeded - MIL ON

I always fill with 91 Octane at Shell. I'm thinking this fault is a fuel mixture error?


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Have coded everything as Jason stated.


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

As of now.


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

After clearing the codes.

Thursday,22,November,2012,17:25:37:47697
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.4
Data version: 20120807


Chassis Type: 3D - VW Phaeton D1
Scan: 01 02 03 05 06 07 08 09 11 13 15 16 17 18 19 23 27 28 29 2E
34 36 37 38 39 46 47 55 56 57 65 66 68 69 71 75 76 77

VIN: WVWAH63D948007583 Mileage: 172700km/107310miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 07C-906-018-BAP1.lbl
Part No SW: 07C 906 018 C HW: 
Component: D1-6.0L-AG-LEV G ?211 
Coding: 0000173
Shop #: WSC 39990 444 00648
VCID: 254135A9EF5B5730723

1 Fault Found:
18331 - Please Check DTC Memory of ECU Number 2 
P1923 - 008 - 
Readiness: 0110 1001

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 3D0-927-156.lbl
Part No: 3D0 927 156 N
Component: AG5 01L 6.0 W12 USA 1114 
Coding: 0001102
Shop #: WSC 13622 410 403014
VCID: 3365DBF1518F3980EC7

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 3D0-614-517.lbl
Part No: 3D0 614 517 R
Component: ESP 5.7 allrad H33 0043 
Coding: 0008397
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 3169D1F9AB930B909EB

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 05: Acc/Start Auth. Labels: 3D0-909-13x-05.lbl
Part No SW: 3D0 909 137 A HW: 5WK 470 19
Component: Kessy 6700 
Revision: 67005614 Serial number: VWZ3Z0C7075885
Coding: 0137452
Shop #: WSC 07218 444 59231
VCID: 254135A9EF5B5730723

Part No: XXXXXXXXXXX 
Component: ELV XXXX

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 06: Seat Mem. Pass Labels: 3D0-959-759.lbl
Part No: 3D0 959 759 B
Component: Sitzmemory D1 BF 1401 
Coding: 0000003
Shop #: WSC 97000 444 59175
VCID: 3561E5E95FFB27B0C23

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 07: Control Head Labels: 3D0-035-00x-07.lbl
Part No: 3D0 035 008 M
Component: ZAB COCKPIT 0188 
Coding: 0000000
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 244728ADE461AE3865D

1 Fault Found:
01044 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded 
000 - - 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 3D0-907-040.lbl
Part No: 3D0 907 040 F
Component: Climatronic D1 1132 
Coding: 0000002
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 214921B9FB73BB100EB

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 3D0-937-049-V1.clb
Part No: 3D0 937 049 G
Component: STG.Bordnetz 5001 
Coding: 0000002
Shop #: WSC 07208 444 54657
VCID: 2E53CA85BAAD1468839

1 Fault Found:
01498 - Bulb for Parking Lamps; Right (M3) 
010 - Open or Short to Plus

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 11: Engine II Labels: 07C-906-018-BAP2.lbl
Part No SW: 07C 906 018 C HW: 
Component: D1-6.0L-AG-LEV G ?211 
Coding: 0000173
Shop #: WSC 97000 444 00415
VCID: 254135A9EF5B5730723

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 3D0-909-601.lbl
Part No: 3D0 909 601 D
Component: 0A Airbag 8.4E+ H07 0934 
Coding: 0012353
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 244728ADE461AE3865D

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel Labels: 3D0-953-549.lbl
Part No: 3D0 953 549 C
Component: Lenks?lenmodul 3301 
Coding: 0000232
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 2D51CD89B7AB6F70BA3

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 3D0-920-xxx-17.lbl
Part No: 3D0 920 981 G
Component: KOMBIINSTRUMENT RB4 0412 
Coding: 0008221
Shop #: WSC 97000 444 00007
VCID: 2B55C39189BF6140A47

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
Part No: 6N0 909 901 
Component: Gateway KCAN 0101 
Coding: 0000006
Shop #: WSC 07208 444 84825
VCID: F0EF94FDE019C298515

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 28: HVAC, Rear Labels: 3D0-919-158.lbl
Part No: 3D0 919 158 F
Component: Klima-Bedienteil D1 0117 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 2E53CA85BAAD1468839

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 29: Left Light Labels: 3D0-909-157.lbl
Part No: 3D0 909 157 
Component: EVG GDL+AutoLWR(l) X012 
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: E6C3F2A5D2DD1C283B9

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 34: Level Control Labels: 3D0-907-553.lbl
Part No: 3D0 907 553 B
Component: LUFTFDR.-CDC- 3C1V0 1101 
Coding: 0017700
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 264332A5925D5C287B9

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 36: Seat Mem. Drvr Labels: 3D0-959-760.lbl
Part No: 3D0 959 760 B
Component: Sitzmemory D1 F 1401 
Coding: 0000004
Shop #: WSC 97000 444 53697
VCID: 2D51CD89B7AB6F70BA3

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 37: Navigation Labels: 3D0-919-887.lbl
Part No: 3D0 919 887 A
Component: NAVIGATION 0147 
Coding: 0400000
Shop #: WSC 07208 444 53476
VCID: 326BDEF5AE953088E71

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 38: Roof Electronics Labels: 3D0-907-135.lbl
Part No: 3D0 907 135 B
Component: Dachmodul 0605 
Coding: 0000015
Shop #: WSC 98765 666 30460
VCID: 224B2EB5FE75A008171

1 Fault Found:
00220 - Connection to Sunroof 
004 - No Signal/Communication

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 39: Right Light Labels: 3D0-909-158.lbl
Part No: 3D0 909 158 
Component: EVG GDL+AutoLWR(r) X012 
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: E7DDFFA1D5D7052000F

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 3D0-959-933.lbl
Part No: 3D0 959 933 E
Component: 6P HSG 3211 
Coding: 0000040
Shop #: WSC 91511 999 12530
VCID: 326BDEF5AE953088E71

Part No: 3D1 959 701 E
Component: Tuersteuergeraet FS 0104

Part No: 3D1 959 702 E
Component: Tuersteuergeraet BF 0104

Part No: 3D0 959 703 E
Component: Tuersteuergeraet HL 0104

Part No: 3D0 959 704 E
Component: Tuersteuergeraet HR 0104

Part No: 3D0 909 610 B
Component: 3I HDSG 2320

Part No: 7L0 907 719 
Component: Neigungssensor 0020

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 47: Sound System Labels: 7Lx-035-4xx-47.lbl
Part No: 3D0 035 466 
Component: 12K-AUDIOVERST 0115 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: DFCDE7410D874DE0F8F

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 65: Tire Pressure Labels: 3D0-907-273.lbl
Part No: 3D0 907 273 C
Component: Reifendruckueberw. 0021 
Coding: 0010284
Shop #: WSC 64261 372 487215
VCID: 264332A5925D5C287B9

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 66: Seat, Rear Labels: 3D0-959-860.lbl
Part No: 3D0 959 860 B
Component: Sitzmemory D1 H 1513 
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 2E53CA85BAAD1468839

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 68: Wiper Electr. Labels: 3D1-955-119.lbl
Part No: 3D1 955 119 
Component: Front Wiper 2005 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: E6C3F2A5D2DD1C283B9

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 71: Battery Charger Labels: 3D0-915-181.lbl
Part No: 3D0 915 181 D
Component: Batteriemanagement 2800 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 244728ADE461AE3865D

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 75: Telematics Labels: 3D0-035-617.lbl
Part No SW: 3D0 035 617 HW: 3D0 035 617 
Component: Telematik NAR1 0101 
Coding: 0061860
Shop #: WSC 97000 444 59175
VCID: DDB1DD49078B5FF0EA3

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 76: Park Assist Labels: 3D0-919-283.lbl
Part No: 3D0 919 283 C
Component: 03 Einparkhilfe 0807 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 2A5BC695864578485F1

No fault code found.

End ---------------------------------------------------------------------


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

After re-coding as referred by Jason and Michael.

Thursday,22,November,2012,17:41:35:47697
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.4
Data version: 20120807


Chassis Type: 3D - VW Phaeton D1
Scan: 01 02 03 05 06 07 08 09 11 13 15 16 17 18 19 23 27 28 29 2E
34 36 37 38 39 46 47 55 56 57 65 66 68 69 71 75 76 77

VIN: WVWAH63D948007583 Mileage: 172700km/107310miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 07C-906-018-BAP1.lbl
Part No SW: 07C 906 018 C HW: 
Component: D1-6.0L-AG-LEV G ?211 
Coding: 0000173
Shop #: WSC 39990 444 00648
VCID: 254135A9EF5B5730723

1 Fault Found:
18331 - Please Check DTC Memory of ECU Number 2 
P1923 - 008 - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0010 1001

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 3D0-927-156.lbl
Part No: 3D0 927 156 N
Component: AG5 01L 6.0 W12 USA 1114 
Coding: 0001102
Shop #: WSC 13622 410 403014
VCID: 3365DBF1518F3980EC7

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 3D0-614-517.lbl
Part No: 3D0 614 517 R
Component: ESP 5.7 allrad H33 0043 
Coding: 0008397
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 3169D1F9AB930B909EB

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 05: Acc/Start Auth. Labels: 3D0-909-13x-05.lbl
Part No SW: 3D0 909 137 A HW: 5WK 470 19
Component: Kessy 6700 
Revision: 67005614 Serial number: VWZ3Z0C7075885
Coding: 0133356
Shop #: WSC 07218 444 59231
VCID: 254135A9EF5B5730723

Part No: XXXXXXXXXXX 
Component: ELV XXXX

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 06: Seat Mem. Pass Labels: 3D0-959-759.lbl
Part No: 3D0 959 759 B
Component: Sitzmemory D1 BF 1401 
Coding: 0000003
Shop #: WSC 97000 444 59175
VCID: 3561E5E95FFB27B0C23

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 07: Control Head Labels: 3D0-035-00x-07.lbl
Part No: 3D0 035 008 M
Component: ZAB COCKPIT 0188 
Coding: 0500305
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 244728ADE461AE3865D

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 3D0-907-040.lbl
Part No: 3D0 907 040 F
Component: Climatronic D1 1132 
Coding: 0000002
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 214921B9FB73BB100EB

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 3D0-937-049-V1.clb
Part No: 3D0 937 049 G
Component: STG.Bordnetz 5001 
Coding: 0000002
Shop #: WSC 07208 444 54657
VCID: 2E53CA85BAAD1468839

2 Faults Found:
01498 - Bulb for Parking Lamps; Right (M3) 
010 - Open or Short to Plus
00907 - Intervention load Management 
000 - - 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 11: Engine II Labels: 07C-906-018-BAP2.lbl
Part No SW: 07C 906 018 C HW: 
Component: D1-6.0L-AG-LEV G ?211 
Coding: 0000173
Shop #: WSC 97000 444 00415
VCID: 254135A9EF5B5730723

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 3D0-909-601.lbl
Part No: 3D0 909 601 D
Component: 0A Airbag 8.4E+ H07 0934 
Coding: 0012353
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 244728ADE461AE3865D

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel Labels: 3D0-953-549.lbl
Part No: 3D0 953 549 C
Component: Lenks?lenmodul 3301 
Coding: 0000232
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 2D51CD89B7AB6F70BA3

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 3D0-920-xxx-17.lbl
Part No: 3D0 920 981 G
Component: KOMBIINSTRUMENT RB4 0412 
Coding: 0008221
Shop #: WSC 97000 444 00007
VCID: 2B55C39189BF6140A47

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
Part No: 6N0 909 901 
Component: Gateway KCAN 0101 
Coding: 0000006
Shop #: WSC 07208 444 84825
VCID: F0EF94FDE019C298515

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 28: HVAC, Rear Labels: 3D0-919-158.lbl
Part No: 3D0 919 158 F
Component: Klima-Bedienteil D1 0117 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 2E53CA85BAAD1468839

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 29: Left Light Labels: 3D0-909-157.lbl
Part No: 3D0 909 157 
Component: EVG GDL+AutoLWR(l) X012 
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: E6C3F2A5D2DD1C283B9

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 34: Level Control Labels: 3D0-907-553.lbl
Part No: 3D0 907 553 B
Component: LUFTFDR.-CDC- 3C1V0 1101 
Coding: 0017700
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 264332A5925D5C287B9

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 36: Seat Mem. Drvr Labels: 3D0-959-760.lbl
Part No: 3D0 959 760 B
Component: Sitzmemory D1 F 1401 
Coding: 0000004
Shop #: WSC 97000 444 53697
VCID: 2D51CD89B7AB6F70BA3

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 37: Navigation Labels: 3D0-919-887.lbl
Part No: 3D0 919 887 A
Component: NAVIGATION 0147 
Coding: 0400000
Shop #: WSC 07208 444 53476
VCID: 326BDEF5AE953088E71

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 38: Roof Electronics Labels: 3D0-907-135.lbl
Part No: 3D0 907 135 B
Component: Dachmodul 0605 
Coding: 0000015
Shop #: WSC 98765 666 30460
VCID: 224B2EB5FE75A008171

1 Fault Found:
00220 - Connection to Sunroof 
004 - No Signal/Communication

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 39: Right Light Labels: 3D0-909-158.lbl
Part No: 3D0 909 158 
Component: EVG GDL+AutoLWR(r) X012 
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: E7DDFFA1D5D7052000F

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 3D0-959-933.lbl
Part No: 3D0 959 933 E
Component: 6P HSG 3211 
Coding: 0000040
Shop #: WSC 91511 999 12530
VCID: 326BDEF5AE953088E71

Part No: 3D1 959 701 E
Component: Tuersteuergeraet FS 0104

Part No: 3D1 959 702 E
Component: Tuersteuergeraet BF 0104

Part No: 3D0 959 703 E
Component: Tuersteuergeraet HL 0104

Part No: 3D0 959 704 E
Component: Tuersteuergeraet HR 0104

Part No: 3D0 909 610 B
Component: 3I HDSG 2320

Part No: 7L0 907 719 
Component: Neigungssensor 0020

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 47: Sound System Labels: 7Lx-035-4xx-47.lbl
Part No: 3D0 035 466 
Component: 12K-AUDIOVERST 0115 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: DFCDE7410D874DE0F8F

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 65: Tire Pressure Labels: 3D0-907-273.lbl
Part No: 3D0 907 273 C
Component: Reifendruckueberw. 0021 
Coding: 0010224
Shop #: WSC 64261 372 48721
VCID: 264332A5925D5C287B9

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 66: Seat, Rear Labels: 3D0-959-860.lbl
Part No: 3D0 959 860 B
Component: Sitzmemory D1 H 1513 
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 2E53CA85BAAD1468839

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 68: Wiper Electr. Labels: 3D1-955-119.lbl
Part No: 3D1 955 119 
Component: Front Wiper 2005 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: E6C3F2A5D2DD1C283B9

1 Fault Found:
00003 - Control Module 
014 - Defective

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 71: Battery Charger Labels: 3D0-915-181.lbl
Part No: 3D0 915 181 D
Component: Batteriemanagement 2800 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 244728ADE461AE3865D

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 75: Telematics Labels: 3D0-035-617.lbl
Part No SW: 3D0 035 617 HW: 3D0 035 617 
Component: Telematik NAR1 0101 
Coding: 0061860
Shop #: WSC 97000 444 59175
VCID: DDB1DD49078B5FF0EA3

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 76: Park Assist Labels: 3D0-919-283.lbl
Part No: 3D0 919 283 C
Component: 03 Einparkhilfe 0807 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 2A5BC695864578485F1

No fault code found.

End ---------------------------------------------------------------------


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Paximus said:


> There are three things you need to properly run a Phaeton, (1) ignition key (2) this forum (3) that cable!
> 
> Chris
> 
> PS - 4 things - put Michael on the list


Agreed! Michael is awesome!
PS: You too Jason!


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

I think the lean limit means that the engine is running too rich (more fuel/less air). Since I don't have any service records, I believe the filters need to be changed. Is the dealership the best way to go? Or can I source better ones online?


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

I think I also know why the TPMS sensors are going off. Checked my spare tire area and it is empty.


----------



## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

W12Canada said:


> After re-coding as referred by Jason and Michael.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Address 01: Engine Labels: 07C-906-018-BAP1.lbl
> ...


It looks like you fixed all engine problems. Just one more thing. You just need to enter Controller 1 (ECU #1) and clear the faults once more. It is now reporting that a fault exists in Controller 11 (ECU #2), but in fact "no fault was found".
This little phenomenon is caused by the way VCDS enters the controllers and clears the DTC's.
After you have pressed "Clear all DTC's", VCDS sequentially enter each controller to do what it is supposed to do, starting with controller 1. Since at the start of this process, controller *11* is not yet free of errors, controller 1 will notice the error in controller 11 AFTER controller 1 has been cleared, and before VCDS has accessed controller 11 (to clear the DTC's in that controller).

You might call it a bug, but there is a simple workaround.
All you need to do is either "Clear all DTC's" once more, or simply enter engine controller #1 directly and manually clear the DTC's. The latter is much quicker.
After doing so, no error should be present in both controllers.

Willem


----------



## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

> There are three things you need to properly run a Phaeton, (1) ignition key (2) this forum (3) that cable!
> 
> Chris
> 
> PS - 4 things - put Michael on the list


Sorry, I meant to put Willem on the list, too. And Jason...:thumbup:

After you have driven the car for a day or two there might now be a 'clean' DTC selection to help with the mixture diagnosis. There was that MAF sensor #2 report which may or may not be relevant.

If the filters are blocked doesn't a flap open to bypass them? Or is that just the snow screens?

Chris


----------



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Paximus said:


> There was that MAF sensor #2 report which may or may not be relevant.


The number 2 MAF sensor is probably just pissed off that it has been covered up by that metallic heat insulating blanket. Remove the trim cover from the driver side of the engine, re-locate the heat insulating blanket to where it is supposed to go, then clear the code and see if it returns. The photo below shows where the blanket should really be. The photo shows the opposite side of the engine to where you have the problem, but the idea is the same on the other side.

*Kevin: * Just a head's up and a warning, if you are working in the area of the MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor): For goodness sake, don't ever use silicone spray lubricant, or any kind of product that might contain silicone (for example, Armor-All or similar) anywhere near that MAF.

Silicone spray and silicone derivatives are, to the MAF, what Kryptonite is to Superman - the kiss of death. If any form of silicone residue gets on the MAF, it is game over, it cannot be cleaned, and you will be out of pocket $400 for a new MAF.

Michael 

*Correct location of insulating blanket*


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

WillemBal said:


> It looks like you fixed all engine problems. Just one more thing. You just need to enter Controller 1 (ECU #1) and clear the faults once more. It is now reporting that a fault exists in Controller 11 (ECU #2), but in fact "no fault was found".
> This little phenomenon is caused by the way VCDS enters the controllers and clears the DTC's.
> After you have pressed "Clear all DTC's", VCDS sequentially enter each controller to do what it is supposed to do, starting with controller 1. Since at the start of this process, controller *11* is not yet free of errors, controller 1 will notice the error in controller 11 AFTER controller 1 has been cleared, and before VCDS has accessed controller 11 (to clear the DTC's in that controller).
> 
> ...


Done!


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Ah. I wasn't sure where the insulator was supposed to go so I didn't do anything about it. I'll do that later today. As far as silicone lubricants, I've never bought one in my life! (As far as I'm aware of.

I changed the coding of the transmission to the W12 standards and the PRNDS are still lit up. It was working last night but stopped when I started my car an hour ago. I guess I'll have to wait until that battery gets here.

Also, is there a link to how I can take apart my boot? It looks like the logo is held on by screws but not sure how to get to them.


----------



## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

> Also, is there a link to how I can take apart my boot?


Yes, it's the one in the TOC about retro-fitting a European Warning Triangle...

Chris


----------



## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

W12Canada said:


> I changed the coding of the transmission to the W12 standards and the PRNDS are still lit up. It was working last night but stopped when I started my car an hour ago. I guess I'll have to wait until that battery gets here.


When PRNDS are lit up like that, it means the transmission control module sees an important fault, or the TCM itself is faulty or offline. In your case, you have a few potential causes. One was the KESSY mis-coding, which you've now eliminated. You've also seen faults in the past for low voltage and for a missing load signal. You would need to re-do your auto-scan, or just check for faults on address 02 (automatic transmission) to see the *current* fault. Let us know which fault it's currently seeing.

It's probably one of your two original faults returning. The low voltage fault will be helped greatly with a new VPS battery. The TCM missing load signal is from your ECU 1 MAF sensor fault. The ECU can usually estimate how much torque the engine is putting out at any instant, based on how much air it's flowing and fuel is being injected and some other factors. If the mass air-flow sensor is faulty, the ECU records a fault but it can keep running the engine based on some educated guesses. But, it can't accurately estimate its torque output. The TCM likes to know how much torque is coming down the line so it can dial in line pressures just right for quick smooth shifting. If it doesn't know that, it has to guess and you'll get sloppy or harsh shifting. 

Be aware when troubleshooting MAF issues: engine bank, cylinder bank and airflow take some getting used to on the W12. They make sense once you understand them. The engine has two banks. It has FOUR cylinder banks (1-3, 4-6 in engine bank 1, 7-9, 10-12 in engine bank 2). Intake air goes *across* the engine so it doesn't have to 180-degree hairpin incoming air. So while the engine bank arrangement is like any other North American car, with engine bank 1 on the passenger side and engine bank 2 on the driver's side, be aware that the air cleaner and MAF are on the opposite side. So, your engine bank 1 MAF is on the driver's side.

I see in your instrument cluster photo that your outside temperature reading is -8.0C. This means it's ridiculously cold outside. Given that winter doesn't officially start for another month, the problem will get much worse before it gets better. You can repair this fault by loading all your stuff in the Phaeton and driving south until the little snowflake icon disappears, around 4.0C. We have universal healthcare down here now, sort of, it's not so bad.

I have some more feedback for you but I'm off to do some family stuff. I'll reply with more later.

Jason


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

jyoung8607 said:


> When PRNDS are lit up like that, it means the transmission control module sees an important fault, or the TCM itself is faulty or offline. In your case, you have a few potential causes. One was the KESSY mis-coding, which you've now eliminated. You've also seen faults in the past for low voltage and for a missing load signal. You would need to re-do your auto-scan, or just check for faults on address 02 (automatic transmission) to see the *current* fault. Let us know which fault it's currently seeing.
> 
> It's probably one of your two original faults returning. The low voltage fault will be helped greatly with a new VPS battery. The TCM missing load signal is from your ECU 1 MAF sensor fault. The ECU can usually estimate how much torque the engine is putting out at any instant, based on how much air it's flowing and fuel is being injected and some other factors. If the mass air-flow sensor is faulty, the ECU records a fault but it can keep running the engine based on some educated guesses. But, it can't accurately estimate its torque output. The TCM likes to know how much torque is coming down the line so it can dial in line pressures just right for quick smooth shifting. If it doesn't know that, it has to guess and you'll get sloppy or harsh shifting.
> 
> ...


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Success!

Does anyone notice anything different about my Phaeton?


----------



## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

W12Canada said:


> Success!
> 
> Does anyone notice anything different about my Phaeton?


Much better. I've never seen that upside-down VW logo gimmick before. Looked like a distress call. 

Folks here in the forum have had some... spirited discussions about Phaeton mods. It's an interesting change of dynamic from Jetta or Golf or Passat forums. To each his own, I say. But, most people here (myself among them) like to maintain their cars as close to factory-spec as possible except for adding some options only available in Europe.

Jason


----------



## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Where's "MA"? 

It almost looks like a fault-free norrmal driver now! Well, nearly...

Chris


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

I like keeping cars stock. If they're performance mods, say on a sports car, I wouldn't plaster my car with K&N stickers and what not. I love being subtle and this car really suits my personality.


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

This was what I saw. I think that's the reason as to my faulty emblem boot open function.


----------



## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

W12Canada said:


> I think I also know why the TPMS sensors are going off. Checked my spare tire area and it is empty.


Yeah, that won't help.

That extra TPMS sensor in your glovebox, take it out and get it AWAY from your car. If it doesn't work, you don't need it. If it does work, that's actually worse - it will confuse the wheel position learning process. The sensors themselves have a unique ID but aren't coded to a position. The TPMS controller learns that based on proximity to each wheel's TPMS antenna.

Then, do one of two things:

1) With VCDS, recode the tire pressure monitoring controller (address 65) from *0010224* (NAR W12 four wheels plus spare) to *0010324* (NAR W12 four wheels with no spare). You should see the spare position disappear immediately in the Infotainment console. If your car still can't complete a TPMS learn cycle after a short drive, we can work with you on further diagnostics.

*--- OR ---*

2) If you wish, disable TPMS monitoring entirely using the process I outlined earlier in post #77.

Jason


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Hi Jason,

I already recoded it last night to the 4 tire setting. It keeps on saying flat tyre on start up and can't seem to learn no matter how long or how far I drive. I'll take the tpms sensor out and try driving around tomorrow to see if that'll help.


----------



## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

W12Canada said:


> Hi Jason,
> 
> I already recoded it last night to the 4 tire setting. It keeps on saying flat tyre on start up and can't seem to learn no matter how long or how far I drive. I'll take the tpms sensor out and try driving around tomorrow to see if that'll help.


Believe it or not, that's a positive sign. Missing sensors don't produce that warning, live ones do. There's enough battery left in at least one of your five sensors to complain about low pressure. TPMS might not know which position yet if it hasn't successfully relearned. 

The flat warning will cause some problems with TPMS relearning. I've have the same problem. I have my TPMS disabled right now because I have one sensor flaking out and intermittently reporting a flat condition even though pressure is just fine. It clears up after a couple miles of driving. I've been letting it go because I'm due for new tires in a short while anyway. Anyway, hopefully it was due to the one in your glovebox and it will go away.

Just to check the obvious: set your tire pressures, when cold, to exactly the pressures shown on the label in your driver's doorjamb. Otherwise we may be chasing our tails here. Some variance is okay later, but let's start from a known good baseline.

It would be good to know the 'months of life remaining' value as reported by the sensors. I think they start with 84 months? Not sure. You can see this with VCDS in measured value blocks 002, 005, 008, 011 (and 014 if you have a spare). Positions won't be accurate until a learning cycle is complete but I think the controller will list them right away in first-heard order.

Jason


----------



## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

> I think they start with 84 months?


Mine reported 96 months at new.

Chris


----------



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

W12Canada said:


> I changed the coding of the transmission to the W12 standards and the PRNDS are still lit up.


Hi Kevin:

Jason provided you with some very scholarly comments about a possible cause of the PRNDL display lighting up in post #131 on the previous page, where he wrote:


jyoung8607 said:


> When PRNDS are lit up like that, it means the transmission control module sees an important fault, or the TCM itself is faulty or offline...


That much is correct - the entire PRNDL display will light up, as you showed in the picture in post #132, if there is a problem within the transmission control unit. But, it is also possible for the PRNDL display to be lit up as a result of a much more mundane problem, and that would be a broken plate on the gear lever selector. This plate is often broken when people re-install the leather shift lever on the stalk. If it is broken, the whole PRNDL display will light up.

Have a look at post #52 on page 2 of the discussion about Retrofitting Keyless Start to a North American Phaeton. You'll see an example of a broken plate there - that happens to be my car. I broke the plate when I was re-installing the shift lever cover. The replacement part costs about $180, or at least, that's what it cost back in 2004.

Normally, if that plate is broken, the transmission generates a fault code to the effect of "implausible position of shift lever" or words to that effect. I notice that you have not had that code in any of your scans, which kind of discounts the likelihood that it is broken, but before you run out and spend any major money investigating the transmission problem, you should have a look at that plate.

It is also possible that at some time in the past, someone might have spilled a sugary drink into the transmission gear selector (i.e. a coffee with sugar, or a Coca-Cola, or similar), and the sticky residue left over is preventing this plate from moving around. Be aware that there is a large printed circuit board directly below the shift lever. So, you might want to investigate that. Instructions for partially disassembling that area to investigate are contained on the first page of the Retrofitting Keyless Start to a North American Phaeton post.

In the meantime, before doing any disassembly, you might want to try opening up controller 02 (the transmission controller), and entering a value of '0' (zero) in adaptation channel 000, testing that value, then saving it (the VAG-COM will show a TEST button, then a SAVE button - the TEST button ensures that the proposed new coding is valid, and the SAVE button writes it to the controller). Entering zero in adaptation channel 000 of any controller clears the non-volatile memory of the controller and resets it. It is possible that just doing this might be sufficient to clear the (potential) fault recorded in your controller.

You mentioned that you re-coded your transmission controller to 0001102, which is the correct code for a W12, 5 speed transmission without paddle shifters. Don't forget that it is sometimes necessary to refresh the CAN gateway (which is part of the instrument cluster) after recoding some - but not all - controllers. I don't know if the transmission controller requires a CAN gateway refresh, but you might want to try it - see this post for an explanation of how to do it: Requirement to Refresh the CAN gateway (Controller 19) after Controller Retrofits or Controller Removal.

If that doesn't work, before doing anything at all related to the transmission, get that instrument controller flash-updated to software ending in '21', as I explained a week ago in item 7) of my post #67 on the second page of this discussion. The instrument cluster contains the router (the communications hub) for all the networks in the car, and the software you have (ending in 12) has KNOWN problems with packet timing errors across the CAN busses. It is possible that this might be causing the transmission display problem. It is a _certainty _that the old software you have in that instrument cluster is causing you a whole bunch of other problems, some subtle, some not so subtle.

Regards,

Michael


----------



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Paximus said:


> Mine reported 96 months at new.


Hi Chris:

True, but those were probably replacement sensors that have been recently manufactured, not the original sensors that were installed in the car back in 2003 or 2004. To the best of my knowledge, the original sensors from the first few years of production only had about a 6 or 7 year life.

Michael


----------



## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Thanks Michael, I am sure you are right.

I assumed that mine were lying, in as much as the software probably assigned them that number meaning 'full battery voltage' and will rapidly reduce the figure according to its built-in table of months-against-volts.

At least, that's my guess, that's how I would code it given a spec to estimate 'months' for the general public to consume!

Chris


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

jyoung8607 said:


> His TPMS controller was awake and responding, it's in his auto-scan. It was throwing a DTC for communications trouble. I think it's just having trouble talking to his J523 due to the bogus J523 coding, just like the seat controllers (I think the VCDS error text was misleading; it can't be having communications problems with itself). That one problem is easily fixable. But, as you rightly point out, there's an excellent chance he has dead TPMS sensors. Couldn't say without getting it up and running and then poking at it more with VCDS.
> 
> Kevin, if you want to just remove TPMS from the car entirely, follow these three steps:
> 
> ...


 Here's my fusebox.


----------



## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)




----------



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

You are making progress, there are a lot fewer annunciations in that instrument cluster than there were two weeks ago! 

Michael


----------



## oca123 (Jan 14, 2012)

Came across this while looking up a part number for the version of this vehicle where they only put one letter on the emblem instead of the two. 

In regards to the battery, I put an Odyssey PC1350 in my vehicle. I have experienced zero issues and have been impressed with the amount of power it can store. I have had to drain it completely a couple of times and actually had a hard time doing so, even with current-hungry devices purposely hooked up on all 3 12V cigarette lighter outlets to speed up the process. 
I do see that CCA is shown at 770, and I think I read somewhere that the OEM battery can provide 850CCA? 

The Odyssey was easy to install and I was able to do it myself in less than 20 minutes. The most difficult part was accessing one of the screws holding the fuse box, as I did not have the right tool. 

Here are the specs for the PC1350 (copy/paste) 

PHCA: 1,350A at 80°F (27°C); for 5 seconds 
CCA: 770A at 0°F (-18°C) 
CA/MCA: 960A at 32° (0°C) 
HCA: 1080 at 80°F (27°C) 
Reserve capacity: 195 minutes on 25amps 
Short circuit current: 2,900A 
Deep cycling capability: 400 at 80% DOD 
Design life: 12 years 
Typical service life: 6 to 8 years 

It is possible that the OEM offering is superior. The Odyssey is supposed to be good quality. I believe these are the ones Hawker uses for the vehicle they mfg for the military. 

I am impressed by the amount of information that can be retrieved using the VCDS - I really want to get one, but I am experiencing an irrational fear of what it might shed light on. For one, after reading this thread, I am pretty sure that TPMS has been disabled in my vehicle, which means other things could have been altered as well. 

Does anyone know if part #s 3W1 959 793 and 3D0/3D1 959 793 (not sure if it should be 3D0 or 3D1) are interchangeable? Is there such a thing as 959-701 for the Phaeton, and if so, what is the difference between 959-701 and 959-793? If this is inappropriate here, feel free to delete this message and tell me to create a new thread. 

Cheers 
Paul


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hi Paul: 

Welcome to the Phaeton forum. Although your car is not a Phaeton, it does have a lot in common with the Phaeton, and you are welcome to post questions here and participate in the forum. 

I have created a new discussion for your question, lest it cause confusion where you originally posted it (in the discussion about Kevin's car. 

Here's a direct link to the new discussion of your questions: 
Question about battery fitment to Bentley CGT. Let's continue the conversation about your question there. 

Michael


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Rented a garage today for the Phaeton.










The garage will be cleaned out by the landlord when it gets warm.

I'll also be picking up a battery tender from NAPA as Michael suggested... Do I need one or two?

As well, I'll be free tomorrow so I'll be going to the dealer to order the VPS battery.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hi Kevin: 

Only get one battery tender. You hook that up to the left battery. 

In my experience, the right battery never needs to be 'topped up'. This might be because the right battery is only ever used for operating the engine starter motor, and the design of the battery controller is such that it is always adequately replenished after each start. 

Michael


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)




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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Also, am i missing fuses in my fusebox? It looks to be that way compared to the diagram. Also, do auto shops sell dummy fuses that I can put in place of the one I removed?


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)




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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

W12Canada said:


> Also, am i missing fuses in my fusebox?


 You should have a number of empty fuse positions in the three fuseboxes (above the left battery, under the steering wheel, and in the air intake plenum on the right side of the car). This is normal. 

Personally, I don't suggest that you fill them with blanks - I find that it is easier to navigate through the fusebox when the circuits (fuse positions) that are not utilized are empty. 

Michael


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

I don't think the new nav cds made by tomtom works with the Phaeton. Gray screen and adjusts the driver's seat by itself occasionally. I took the cd out. I guess 2012 is the last year available for the Phaeton.


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Can I get the method in updating the nav cds on the Phaeton? I was trying to look at the nav cd update thread in the faqs but it's giving me a 404 error.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Does this thread have the info you wanted? (You can always use Google if the Forum search function can't see far enough, just search (for example) using this text: phaeton nav cd manual site:vwvortex.com) 

Electronic Owner Manual works on North American Phaetons 

Chris


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Sorry Paximus, no.

I was informed that there is a procedure that I have to follow in order for me to upgrade to a newer nav disk.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

If you have a new compatible (ie VDO Dayton) CD, such as one sold as suitable for a pre-DVD Bentley or a compatible BMW, just put it in the Nav drive and it will be used. 

If you want the Manual data accessible from the ZAB central screen you have to make an ISO file copy of the new CD and add in the HTML file folder using an ISO editor, then burn a new CD. 

I hope that helps. 

Chris


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

I just noticed that the part number is different in my disk over the ones compatible with the Phaeton.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

I found this list of car systems that allegedly use the VDO Dayton CD data system and might be suitable 'donor' suppliers using Navteq mapping: 

BMW All models VDO Dayton MK I, MK II and MK III CD System or DVD High … -09/2002 
3er (E46) VDO Dayton MK I, MK II and MK III CD System or DVD High … - 03/2005 
5er (E39) VDO Dayton MK I, MK II and MK III CD System or DVD High …- 07/2003 
7er (E65 / E66 / E38 ) VDO Dayton MK I, MK II and MK III CD System or DVD High … - 10/2005 
X3 (E83) VDO Dayton MK I, MK II and MK III CD System or DVD High 2001-2007 
X5 (E53) VDO Dayton MK I, MK II and MK III CD System or DVD High 1999-2005 
Z4 (E85) VDO Dayton MK I, MK II and MK III CD System or DVD High 2002 - 2008 
Z8 (E52) VDO Dayton MK I, MK II and MK III CD System or DVD High 03/2000 - 07/2003 
BENTLEY Continental GT VDO Dayton 2003 - 22/2007 
Continental Flying Spur VDO Dayton 2005 - 22/2007 
Continental GTC VDO Dayton 2006 - 22/2007 
CITRÖN C5 VDO Dayton mit Farbbildschirm / with big colour screen … - 06.2004 
HYUNDAI i30 VDO Dayton Turn by Turn 
KIA Ceed VDO Dayton Turn by Turn 
LAND ROVER Range Rover VDO Dayton 1999-2004 
Discovery VDO Dayton 1999-2004 
Freelander VDO Dayton 1999-2004 
FORD Lincoln VDO Dayton 1999-2004 
MINI VDO Dayton mit Farbbildschirm / with colour screen …-10/2005 
PEUGEOT 2. 607 VDO Dayton …-09/2004 
RENAULT 3. Avantime Carminat Navigations systems 2000-2006 
Clio Carminat Navigations systems 2000-2006 
Espace Carminat Navigations systems 2000-2006 
Laguna Carminat Navigations systems 2000-2006 
Megane Carminat Navigations systems 2000-2006 
Megane Scenic Carminat Navigations systems 2000-2006 
Safrane Carminat Navigations systems 2000-2006 
Trafic Carminat Navigations systems 2000-2006 
Vel Satis Carminat Navigations systems 2000-2006 
alle mit großem Farbdisplay / all with big colour screen Carminat Navigations systems 2000-2006 
ROVER 75 mit Farbbildschirm / with colour screen VDO Dayton …-10/2005 
ZT VDO Dayton …-10/2005 
VW Phaeton VDO Dayton …-05/2007 
MG ZT VDO Dayton …-10/2005 
NISSAN Primastar VDO Dayton …-10/2005 

VDO were bought out by Continental who were then 'kind of' bought out by another German parts supplier, so the trail for finding NAR update CDs is getting weaker. 

As a general note, ViaMichelin have picked up the thread for non I-CQ France and BeneLux mapping. (I-CQ is a ROW system like the old OnStar). 
http://www.viamichelin.co.uk/tpl/pdt/prod/htm/navgpsvdo.htm 


Chris


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

W12Canada said:


> I guess 2012 is the last year available for the Phaeton.


Hi Kevin:

No, I kind of doubt that - my guess is that BMW provides navigation discs for different generations of navigation systems, and the disc you bought (shown in the picture that you provided) is for a different - likely newer - generation of BMW cars than the ones we use CDs for.

This post has all the details about navigation CDs for North America: Obtaining up-to-date Phaeton Navigation CDs for North America (BMW CDs).

Michael


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Purchased a carfax for my car today.

http://www.carfax.com/viewEmailRepo...gHa2d8I2wO1mJnkR9KxDcU3xPPmzKZw==&language=en


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

I'm also looking to purchase spark plugs and filters for my vehicle.

Are these the right ones?

Spark plugs
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/121005360155...X:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_4623wt_1308

Cabin + Air + Oil Filter
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/160882161078...X:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_3791wt_1180


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)




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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

I think all of the Phaetons have a snow filter. I have a U.S. model spec Phaeton (In Canada) and it indeed does have a snow filter. I doubt it has been cleaned even once.

After 45 minutes of cleaning it, this is the best I can do.


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## cowboy_ (May 16, 2011)

Hi Kevin,

Are you going to change the sparks yourself? If so, will you be kind to post a couple of pictures of the process? I want to change mines too but I haven't done it before so I have no idea were to start.

Thanks,
Juan


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hello Juan:

There is a discussion listed in the Phaeton Forum 'Table of Contents' (FAQ by Category) that may be of interest to you, it is entitled Spark plugs on W12. There is also another related discussion specific to the V8 engine entitled How to access and change spark plugs on the V8 engine, a lot of the information there carries over to the W12 as well.

Michael


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

I think I'll be tackling the spark plugs. I'll have to see though. I broke a hose coming out of my coolant reservoir so off to the dealer it goes to replace the expansion tank. Also, I could never get the airbox out no matter what sort of angle it was in. The snow filter was covered in mud. It was like going on an adventure in the wetlands.


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## cowboy_ (May 16, 2011)

Thanks Michael, I knew I was not going to be the first one doing it. It sounds a little bit intimidating that to replace sparks I need to remove the cover of the engine, I think I'll change the thermostat while everything is out.

Kevin, I couldn't remove the airbox neither, it seems impossible but it seems that some people, even with W12 were able to do it, how it's mistery to me! If you find a way I'll love to know how.


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

W12Canada said:


> I think I'll be tackling the spark plugs. I'll have to see though. I broke a hose coming out of my coolant reservoir so off to the dealer it goes to replace the expansion tank. Also, I could never get the airbox out no matter what sort of angle it was in. The snow filter was covered in mud. It was like going on an adventure in the wetlands.


Getting the airbox out is like solving a Rubik's Cube. I have to remove the intake tubing to the throttle bodies and the entire MAF housings, and then I still have to screw with it for ten minutes or so. I wish I had some sage advice for you, but my engine layout is a little different from yours. Be aware you can lift up on the bottom half of the airbox and it sort of un-plugs from the rubber mounts it sits in, which may give you more room to shift things around.

The coolant hose thing is unfortunate. Plastic parts get brittle with age and heat cycles. I did something very similar; I broke off one side of my EVAP purge valve when I was trying to disconnect hoses from the intake during my spark plug job. Fortunately, those are cheap. The best advice I can give you is to do it when the hoses are hot. They're a lot more pliable and willing to slide on/off when they're hot than they are cold, which means you don't need to use nearly as much force.

Jason


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

W12Canada said:


> ...I could never get the airbox out no matter what sort of angle it was in.


Hi Kevin:

The two airboxes are a tight fit in the engine compartment even at the best of times - I recall taking them apart on my car when the car was only 1 year old, and it was a fiddly task.

Best suggestion I can offer is to do the job in a warm environment - either leave it until spring, when the temperatures are mild, or park the car indoors in a heated garage overnight, then go to work the next day.

There is a post here in the forum entitled TCleaning the Snow Screens in the Phaeton Air Intake, the pictures in that post might provide you with some help. It is also quite possible that the airboxes in your car have not been properly re-assembled - you saw evidence of that when the insulating mat that is supposed to wrap around the outside of the airbox was found over top of the MAF on the left side of your car.

Michael


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

cowboy_ said:


> Hi Kevin,
> 
> Are you going to change the sparks yourself? If so, will you be kind to post a couple of pictures of the process? I want to change mines too but I haven't done it before so I have no idea were to start.
> 
> ...


I'm going to try and tackle it myself and I can for sure take pictures of the process.



cowboy_ said:


> Thanks Michael, I knew I was not going to be the first one doing it. It sounds a little bit intimidating that to replace sparks I need to remove the cover of the engine, I think I'll change the thermostat while everything is out.
> 
> Kevin, I couldn't remove the airbox neither, it seems impossible but it seems that some people, even with W12 were able to do it, how it's mistery to me! If you find a way I'll love to know how.


I just talked to the dealer and the Phaeton tech there (been at the dealer for 20+ years now) has informed me that some W12 Phaetons require the bumper to be off to remove it for an unknown reason due to variances in models.



jyoung8607 said:


> Getting the airbox out is like solving a Rubik's Cube. I have to remove the intake tubing to the throttle bodies and the entire MAF housings, and then I still have to screw with it for ten minutes or so. I wish I had some sage advice for you, but my engine layout is a little different from yours. Be aware you can lift up on the bottom half of the airbox and it sort of un-plugs from the rubber mounts it sits in, which may give you more room to shift things around.
> 
> The coolant hose thing is unfortunate. Plastic parts get brittle with age and heat cycles. I did something very similar; I broke off one side of my EVAP purge valve when I was trying to disconnect hoses from the intake during my spark plug job. Fortunately, those are cheap. The best advice I can give you is to do it when the hoses are hot. They're a lot more pliable and willing to slide on/off when they're hot than they are cold, which means you don't need to use nearly as much force.
> 
> Jason


I have tried rotating it and I have gotten to about 270 degrees clockwise before I gave up.
Dealer has informed me that there are only 3 coolant expansion tanks in circulation at the moment in the world. I have my car booked on Jan 7th to replace the coolant tank + instrument cluster software update.

$150 for the coolant tank + $125 for labour (1 hour).



PanEuropean said:


> Hi Kevin:
> 
> The two airboxes are a tight fit in the engine compartment even at the best of times - I recall taking them apart on my car when the car was only 1 year old, and it was a fiddly task.
> 
> ...


Hi Michael,

The insulation that was on the MAF looks to be a different material from the insulation brackets on the airboxes. They are there and it insulates the boxes from the engine.


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## tomasty (May 24, 2011)

W12Canada said:


> I just talked to the dealer and the Phaeton tech there (been at the dealer for 20+ years now) has informed me that some W12 Phaetons require the bumper to be off to remove it for an unknown reason due to variances in models.


That doesn't sound right to me, I have PM you regarding dealer.

Tomas


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

tomasty said:


> That doesn't sound right to me, I have PM you regarding dealer.
> 
> Tomas


Received and responded.


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

This kind of worked out for me.

I ended up purchasing this:

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=190510761341

For $43.85 rather than $155.00 at the dealership. I think I will only be charged 1 hour of labour for the filter replacement + reservoir change. On L322 Range Rovers, the expansion tanks are usually changed after 150k KMs/93750 miles for preventative maintenance so I'll just count it as the cost of ownership.

Also, for the people who didn't look at my carfax report, a few years ago, insurance paid out around $4000 from storm damage (which I'm assuming why my Phaeton is giving me the suspension fault). I went to Kal Tire (the VW dealer informed me that their wheel alignment machine is broken) and I was told that they couldn't perform an alignment due to suspected parts bent on the vehicle on the Passenger Front side (same report came up on my VCDS).


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## cowboy_ (May 16, 2011)

[$150 for the coolant tank + $125 for labour (1 hour).]

If you have the time and want to do it yourself changing the expansion tank is not bad at all. It is MUCH easier to change the expansion tank than changing the head lights! . It took me like 30 minutes to do it. Once you receive the expansion tank you'll know exactly were are the hoses you need to remove, the most complicated hose to remove is the one below the expansion tank, but working on it for like 5 minutes you should get it out.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Kevin:

Take a careful read of the tales of woe in this discussion: Water in Cabin Footwell (Leakage via Electronics Box in Right Plenum Chamber) before you take the car in to have the expansion tank replaced. It might also be worth your time to read this discussion: Water in Cabin Footwell (Cleaning Air Intake Plenum and Sunroof Drains), concentrating on the part of the discussion that talks about cleaning the air intake plenum and ensuring that the nipples on the two forward sunroof drains are able to open and close properly.

I support Juan's suggestion that you replace the expansion tank yourself, rather than having the dealer do it for you. It is a very simple task. While you are doing it, you can clean out the air intake plenum, ensure that the two forward sunroof drains are operating well, and ensure that the cover on the electronics box (very near to the expansion tank, in fact, I think the expansion tank is over top of it) is securely fastened. 

I suggest you order the two clips mentioned in the technical bulletin for the electronics box ahead of time (prior to doing the job) - they are cheap, and that way, you will have them if you need them.

To do all the above work, the car needs to be at room temperature, and you need to be in a garage where you have a hose and a good size floor drain. If you don't need to replace the expansion tank urgently, you might want to just wait until the first fine day of spring to do all the work. Set aside at least 4 hours time to do it all properly.

You could, of course, have the dealer do all the cleaning work for you, but if you want to go that route, I suggest you print out those two threads and discuss them with the technician when you drop the car off, so that he/she knows exactly what needs to be done.

Michael


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Reached a milestone a couple of days ago.










175 000KMs and still going strong.


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Detailed the Phaeton the other night.



















Here's an interesting picture next to a Triumph Spitfire.










And after detailing the Phaeton, went out for dinner and parked behind the Phaeton's cousin (coincidently, it was the only spot available as well).


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

That's amazing, you have got cars in your car garage, not storage crates and spare washer dryers!

Car looks great.

Chris


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Hi Chris,

Sorry to disappoint you but that place belongs to a friend of mine.

Long post.

I broke off a connector (part of the coolant reservoir) to save some money from going to the dealership.

(Thought I took a picture of what I broke but I guess not).

I live in a townhouse condominium and I parked in the visitor parking and it looks like someone doesn't like me.


















Someone took it off and left it on my windshield.

Even with my broken hose (which I temporarily fixed for $10)

I decided to take a trip to Edmonton (Had dinner with a friend and came back the next morning).










Heated underground parking. (Nice and cosy.)










Same spot as last.










Had some decent breakfast at a diner named 'Route 99'. $10 bill










On my way back, I stopped over at Sylvan Lake to drift on the previously mentioned "lake".




























Road wasn't too bad on the way back to Calgary









After that, I went to the dealership and dropped it off on Monday.

Got it the following monday later with a $920 bill.

I had originally purchased a reservoir expansion tank from eBay which turned out to have a hole inside so I opted for the one from the dealership.

$250 for the tank (including expedited shipping)
$250 for the new VPS battery

And the rest was labour + GST.

I built up a great relationship with my service advisor and now I get some great rates (cheaper than independent shops).

They also charged me an additional $15 to repair a broken wire/switch and now my check oil level is gone!

When I start the car, I only get the PRNDS lights and the check suspension lights.

I scanned my car (while running) and the transmission is giving me a low voltage warning). I'll be charging it with my battery maintainer on Monday to see if that'll remedy the issue.

I'll be bringing it back to the shop on Wednesday to have them fix the suspension fault. I'll get my VCDS scan later for advice.

I'm posting from my mobile phone and this is as best as I can organize it.


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

I am stumped. 

I replaced the LH battery and the transmission is giving me the low voltage warning still. 
It looks like my battery controller has been replaced before. 

3D0 915 181 D is the part number that I have. 

When I quickly shut off my car and quickly turn it back on, the PRNDS stops lighting up and everything works like it should. 

After replacing the LH battery, my infotainment system constantly restarts and now states that Navigation is no longer available. 

I haven't driven the vehicle in a while. 

I am thinking of ordering a C suffix battery controller to see if that will solve my issues. Perhaps I have a faulty "D" suffix battery controller. 

Kevin


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## Digger11 (Sep 24, 2012)

W12Canada said:


> Reached a milestone a couple of days ago.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Did you notive your check engine light is on ?


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

W12Canada said:


> I am stumped.
> 
> I replaced the LH battery and the transmission is giving me the low voltage warning still.
> It looks like my battery controller has been replaced before.
> ...


 Have you checked the RH battery? When mine had climate control problems it turned out to be the RH battery that was the problem, causing juice to be sucked from the LH battery on starting.


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

invisiblewave said:


> Have you checked the RH battery? When mine had climate control problems it turned out to be the RH battery that was the problem, causing juice to be sucked from the LH battery on starting.


You know what? I've been thinking that it was either A. the battery controller (I have the D Revision) or B. the RH battery.

I am leaning more towards the battery controller because even after long distance journeys, my Nav seems to restart constantly.

My vehicle started to misfire more and more often but it doesn't misfire AT ALL if I turn the switch to the 'ON' position and wait for about 10 seconds before I start the vehicle.

I'm not sure whether to purchase a used 'D Rev.' controller off of a '09 Bentley Continental or a brand new 'C Rev.' off of Jim Ellis VW.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

W12Canada said:


> Reached a milestone a couple of days ago.


Was the milestone the fact that it was finally above freezing in Alberta? 

Michael


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## W12Canada (Nov 4, 2012)

Hahaha. Yes, Michael. It's finally starting to warm up. However, today sort of looked like this.


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## cowboy_ (May 16, 2011)

and my wife complains that it's cold when is going below 65 around here :laugh:


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