# RickyisLazy Mk5 Air Build



## GnarPassatWagon (Mar 7, 2009)

While waiting for my air parts to come in, I've been helping my buddy Ricky Bag his 07 GTI.  With lots of help from Mike and Vortex we were able to do this on our own.... woot woot  










And it begins! Ricky bought an Awesome Airlift kit with full digital management. 

*Day 1!* 

We ran the power, ethernet and accessory wire through his car. Sorry no pics! 

Went with a 4 gauge powerline because he plans on running multiple compressors eventually. For now just the single 380c the kit came with. 

*Day 2!* 

Building the false floor. We went to home depot and bought some MDF. (Medium Density Fiberboard) This stuff is super dense, and super strong. Nice and smooth and perfect for our box  

First thing we had to do was cut some wood up! 











I forget the exact measurements so I wont post them up now but we made the outer box first. 










And the test fit! Nice and snug. Sanded smooth and hooked right under the little grey loops under the hatch opening. 











Next was making a center divider between the tank and the rest of the management and then adding little dividers on one side for support and mounting surfaces. 











Next We needed to cut a little notch to let the box lay flush in the back. This plastic seat mount cover gets in the way. 









Than we Drilled a whole so the power supply, ethernet, and accessory wire could be routed in. 










Here's our work station... Some fold up chairs left over wood  










To Ensure that the box would lay completely flush to the floor of the GTI we had to raise up the wooden boards that the tankw ill be mounted to make sure the tank bolts wouldn't be poking out or anything. (the whole box is upside down) 











Fits good  










Time to mount the 380c. mounted it on the right side. 










Now here is the box installed and Good to. 










And a clean fit with the power line running through. 











Tomorrow we are hoping to install and wire up the rest of the management. Then will come the bag install  

To be lowered...


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## Ultimatetaba (Feb 18, 2005)

Chyeeeaaahhhh!!!! Good stuff man. I've been talking with Ricky before this before either of us even pulled the trigger on air. Very excite!


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## hoopachalupa (Dec 1, 2008)

ooo im excited for you. if you need any other help or w.e if you cant find info on here or mike lmk.


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## dman736 (Nov 19, 2008)

looks good so far.


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## AlexsVR6 (Jul 24, 2007)

Watchin...


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## [email protected] (Jan 26, 2006)

Looks good.


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## [email protected] (Feb 19, 2010)

Hey Austin Ricky and Mike


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## _Dirty_ (Sep 30, 2009)

looks good, keep it up


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## sxedub (Jul 27, 2005)

subscribed!


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## SuperBacon (May 8, 2006)

makes me want to work on my airride, but everything is done! haha, well not everything


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## GTIzlatko (Dec 14, 2006)

nice


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## tomespo (Jul 21, 2008)

looks good, real clean


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## nap83 (Jun 24, 2007)

meticulous. i like.


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## Aloha-boy (Mar 9, 2001)

Awesome job!!! So much room to work with, makes me want to change my setup!


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## rickyislazy (Mar 24, 2008)

:embeer:


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## Nick 430 (Aug 5, 2007)

this is great! awesome work. 
Could you post the dimensions of the box, im about to go buy the MDF.


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## SuperBacon (May 8, 2006)

bbs rsII? Damnnnn


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

Whats the ethernet for?


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## rickyislazy (Mar 24, 2008)

iamraymond said:


> Whats the ethernet for?


 AutoPilot Controller


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## RPF1 (Dec 23, 2009)

nice progress so far!! any pictures of where to drill airline holes?? I have yet to see any..


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## GnarPassatWagon (Mar 7, 2009)

All that will be done tomorrow. i will post many pics on how we ran lines and ect. We just got the management completely set up tonight and it is running perfectly  Tomorrow is the bag install and airline run. Should be bagged and post tomorrow night.


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## MRGTI_2U (Dec 14, 2009)

:thumb:


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## RPF1 (Dec 23, 2009)

GnarPassatWagon said:


> All that will be done tomorrow. i will post many pics on how we ran lines and ect. We just got the management completely set up tonight and it is running perfectly  Tomorrow is the bag install and airline run. Should be bagged and post tomorrow night.


 Awesome!! Can't wait.


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## DubberNix (Jan 29, 2002)

Looks good so far! GL with the rest of it.


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## GnarPassatWagon (Mar 7, 2009)

well started at 10am yesterday.. finished at 730 am this morning..... Working straight for about 22 hours... haha It's all done  SO sick... Tucking stock 17's with the airlift slam xl kit  

Look out for the VERY LONG thread update tonight... I have 300 pics to post  problably will cut it down too 100 or so. I have extensive picures on how to run airlines on a mk5 and everything else you need to know to bag one


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## Ultimatetaba (Feb 18, 2005)

Damn. Looking forward to an epic post!!


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## rickyislazy (Mar 24, 2008)




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## Ultimatetaba (Feb 18, 2005)

PICS OF LIFT????? You must love pushin those buttons huh. lol


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## GnarPassatWagon (Mar 7, 2009)

looks soo good  yes I'll post it at full lift


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## ~kInG~ (Jun 8, 2005)

GnarPassatWagon said:


> well started at 10am yesterday.. finished at 730 am this morning..... Working straight for about 22 hours... haha It's all done  SO sick... Tucking stock 17's with the airlift slam xl kit
> 
> Look out for the VERY LONG thread update tonight... I have 300 pics to post  problably will cut it down too 100 or so. I have extensive picures on how to run airlines on a mk5 and everything else you need to know to bag one


 Waiting anxiously!


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## Friedrich1985 (Sep 13, 2007)

soo sick. waiting!!


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## GnarPassatWagon (Mar 7, 2009)

*UPDATE* 

And it Begins.....  I'm going to try to do this in 1 or 2 parts so it can get spread out a Tad... Here it goes. 

First step. Get the car on stands.. 










Wasn't to hard.  

Ricky got that huge standard airlift 5 gallon tank that has a port on top that isn't to flattering.. So ricky talked to will at bagriders and got it switched out and paid the difference for this 5 gallon tank. 

Air Tank Specs: 5 gal 
7 port 
6-1/2 
1-1/4 

4 Bolts. 










So first thing we did was mount the tank then next was a distibuter block. 

Distibuter Block Specs: 1- 4 gauge in 
4 - 8 gauge out 

Only needed 2 small wood screws 










Next was to install the Easy street ECU. 

Needed to 2 small screws 










We installed them back to back on the center wood support. (Distributer facing the tank) 










We originally wanted to add a water trap but ended up needing a different fitting so for now were running the 380c compressor without it. also Ricky plans to upgrade to dual 400c's very soon  Just drilled a hole through the board for the compressor leaderline to go through. 










Next was to throw on the rest of the tank fittings. 2 ptc elbows, hooked up the tank sender unit, plugged the 2 ends and then added a drain **** on the bottum. All ports are 1/2 inch except the bottum drain which is 1/4. 




























This is how the false floor is looking now. (The manifolds aren't mounted yet, just test fitting) 










Now we we're ready to connect 2 airlines from the tank to the manifolds. We cut 2 hoses about 2.5 feet long  










Here they are installed. Each going around the center hump of the spare wheel. 










Hooked up to the tank. 



















Connected to the manifolds. 










Here's a side view. Also we installed the relay. On the side closest to the compressor. When we add another compressor we will put the other relay on the other side of the distibuter block. 


















Good thing we had the awesome instructions provided by airlift  made everything super easy. 










The ECU had a ground..... All we had to do was drill a small pilot hole and screw the ground to the floor of the spare wheel well. 










Next we hooked the main power (4 gauge) to the distrubution block. We ran it from under the rear seat bracket so it went under the tank and to the distribution block with nooooo problem  










Next we had to hook up the accessory wire to the fuse to the ECU. (For now we tapped it.... we later added some male to female connectors) 










Then we connected the Ethernet cable to the ECU. The Ethernet connects the easystreet controller to the ECU. This kit is so easy to use. Everyting just plugs right up. 










Also hooked the compressor to the relay. 










Grounded the compressor in the same way we did the ECU. Right next to the ECU Ground 












Thats all for now  I have more to post tomorrow.  

Look out for up coming post!


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## RPF1 (Dec 23, 2009)

looking awesome so far!


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## MRGTI_2U (Dec 14, 2009)

dang looks cleaner then my set up good job guys. austin youre next. photoshoot once we both get our wheels on ricky!


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## rickyislazy (Mar 24, 2008)

Austin is the man!


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## [email protected] (Feb 19, 2010)

Damn Austin, nice install. Ricky and Mike, you better send me the photos from the upcoming shoot!


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## derryo (Apr 16, 2007)

nice step by step, in for more...


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## dmoney (Apr 10, 2003)

quick question on the tank mounting: it seems like the bolts to mount the tank would go through the wood its mounted to and hit the floor, no?


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## RPF1 (Dec 23, 2009)

dmoney said:


> quick question on the tank mounting: it seems like the bolts to mount the tank would go through the wood its mounted to and hit the floor, no?


 From the 1st page.. 


GnarPassatWagon said:


> To Ensure that the box would lay completely flush to the floor of the GTI we had to raise up the wooden boards that the tankw ill be mounted to make sure the tank bolts wouldn't be poking out or anything. (the whole box is upside down)


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## GnarPassatWagon (Mar 7, 2009)

Thanks for all the nice comments everyone!!  can we get this thread to page four so I can do another update!


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## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

Looks good guys! Can't wait to see this with the wheels on. You're gonna have to come by the meet one of these thursdays Ricky.


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## Stigy (Aug 20, 2008)

Very glad to see a full build thread like this with tons of step-by-step pictures. 

Going to save it in case I ever decide to bag my mk5. 

Cannot wait to see it with wheels on!!


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## TurboREX (Aug 7, 2006)

nice write up with pics cant wait to see it finished


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## derryo (Apr 16, 2007)

come on page 4...


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## GnarPassatWagon (Mar 7, 2009)

hahaha alright I'll pus it over... Thanks for the nice words guys. I can't wait to see the wheels onmyself either


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## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

I wanna see some more pics... pg 4 damnit!!! 

edit: Pg 4 is MINE!!! Now post those pics!


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## GnarPassatWagon (Mar 7, 2009)

Sorry guys just wanting to not post so many pictures on each page so it takes forever to load. 


Sooo We had to hook the 4 gauge up too the battery. 










The 4 gauge wire which ricky picked up from Fry's Electronic (Just a amp wiring kit) came with a 60 amp inline fuse which we put in about 10 inch's from where the 4 gauge connected to the battery positive terminal. 











Now jumping back to that accessory line that we wired that little black fuse too earlier. which is some 14 gauge powerline we picked up at Lowe's. This wire is what carries the signal to turn on the ECU whenever the car is turned on. 

Now how you do that is go to Autozone, Pep Boys, or any other auto parts stores and get this little device called "Add a Circuit". You plug it into a fuse that isn't used or that you don't use... In this case we used fuse number 41 which is the rear window wiper fuse. (Ricky deleted his) Just connect that accesory wire up to this coming off of the added circut. 










Here's the box for the add a circuit  










Now know that ethernet cable that I kept talking about? Well let me show you where we hooked it up too. 



















We ran the main power (4 gauge), accessory wire (14 gauge), and the ethernet cable under the rear seat to the driver side lower panels down next to the seat and up past the hood release lever. THen the 4 gauge split and goes through a rubber hole in the fire wall alog with a group of other wires above the pedal assembly. The Accessory goes up to the fuse panel shown above, and the ethernet cable goes through the fuse panel behind the steering column in the dash down to the ashtray. (The ashtray comes out super easily, just lift up your shift boot and unscrew the 2 screws holding it down. 

Anywho so we just drilled a hole in the ash tray, fed the cable through and hooked up the easy street controller. 










and added some velcro to make sure the controller stays in place. 











Manifolds were pretty easy to mount just bolted the brackets to them and each one needed 4 small wood screws. 

Here's Where We mounted them. 











The big thing about mk5 front struts is that they don't have sway bar mounts.. You may choose to eaither cut the stock sway bar out or drop part of the subframe and remove it... We decided to cut it  

On this part of the subframe under the motor you will want to unbolt the sway bar mounts from the subframe. It is these 4 bolts that you need to remove. (only 2 are shown in this picture) 



















The sway bar required a bit of work to get out but didn't take to long at all. We cut it in two spots with a cut off wheel/grinder, and then it came out with a bit wiggling. 










Yup so thats all for now. Trying to spread out the post :thumb:


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## derryo (Apr 16, 2007)

come on pg 5


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## Ultimatetaba (Feb 18, 2005)

Duuuddeee. I'm in love with this build thread. I'm glad you're posting everything literally step by freakin step. Pictures don't hurt either!


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## RPF1 (Dec 23, 2009)

bumping for page 5!


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## dmoney (Apr 10, 2003)

no one cares if it takes long to load, i mean we all have broadband. PLEASE post more!! loving the thread


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## GnarPassatWagon (Mar 7, 2009)

haha alright I'll add more guys  haha keep checkin for updates!


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## rickyislazy (Mar 24, 2008)




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## [email protected] (Feb 19, 2010)

Did those last two brackets show up yet?


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## rickyislazy (Mar 24, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Did those last two brackets show up yet?


 I have all the brackets.


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## SoCalDubber (Jul 21, 2004)

Yeah, got'm :thumbup:


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## GnarPassatWagon (Mar 7, 2009)

Sorry Been real busy..... Trying to get my own stuff together to bag my wagon  

So now, after we cut the sway bar out, it was time to start working on the rear suspension. 

We were a little nervous going into the rear set up because it required a bit of cutting and we didn't want to mess up.. But once we understood what exactly we needed to do it made it easier and less scary  

Started tearing apart the rear, wasn't to hard. 

Bolts to remove. 

18mm- Bolt and nut holding on the lower control arm. 
1 bolt holding on the lower strut mount 
2 bolts holding on the upper strut mount. 
On the driver side control arm make sure you disconnect the 10 mm headlight sensor that will hold the control arm up. 











Here is the difference between the FK struts and the airlift struts.... The airlifts are super short.... which means, 3 wheel central! 










Here are the strut tower mounts, mounted on the airlift struts. 










The afternoon was passing by.... the garage was getting more dirty. 










Here's the Passat that will be bagged soon... Sold the coils  










Here's how the managment is looking now, getting a bit more messy, we will clean it up with zip ties soon. 











Took the cut off wheel and started to cut up the rear frame... You will understand what we are cutting later  




















Forgot to show the manifold officially mounted nice and sturdy. These things are pretty dense. 





































Now I am very picky... This wasn't even my car and I wanted it to look cleeeeeeean inside and out.. Good thing Ricky felt the same... So We cleaned up the management a bit. 










Zip Tied all the manifold wiring 










Zip Tied the power lines 










Cleaned up the grounds with some more zip ties. 










Tucked the power lines under the tank. 










Then we put the battery cover back on and here is how it looks with the fuse hanging out 










Close up 










Alright to cutting up the rear was like I said... a little scary but it turned out well... First thing you need to do is cut off the upper nipple that holds the spring in place... CUt it off and grind it absolutely flush. 










Here it is grinded flat.. You can see in the above picture how there is the hump that I will grind off to make room for the fitting... (you will understand once I get there) 










Here is the lower control arm nipple that needs to be cut out aswell. 










What I did was start grinding the bottum to weaken the metal.. THen cut slices in the top of the nipple, to be nd each piece down and break them off. You want to make sure that the hole isn't to big because the bottum bag spacer mount needs to be able to hold the bag down and the washer is barely bigger than this hole. 










Fully removed. 










Top View  










Thats all for now  SKeep looking out for post!


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## derryo (Apr 16, 2007)

Are you grounding each compressor and relay seperately to the body?


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## rickyislazy (Mar 24, 2008)

derryo said:


> Are you grounding each compressor and relay seperately to the body?


 The compressor and ECU are grounded separately.


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## derryo (Apr 16, 2007)

rickyislazy said:


> The compressor and ECU are grounded separately.


 Ok, so the ecu, the compressor, and the compressor relay are all seperately grounded to the body as shown? I am just trying to figure out where to ground all my stuff. Some have discussed a grounding distribution block. Your not using one?


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## rabriolet (May 27, 2005)

I would just grab a ground distribution block so you don't have to put a bunch of holes in the car. I have one in my car and it has 4 openings to ground things, but the ground wires for everything are so small (14-16 gauge) that you just strip it a little long then fold it in half to get a little more bite. You could actually fit 2-3 wires in one opening if you wanted or needed to. 

Also makes for a cleaner install since all wires run to 1 point.


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## derryo (Apr 16, 2007)

rabriolet said:


> I would just grab a ground distribution block so you don't have to put a bunch of holes in the car. I have one in my car and it has 4 openings to ground things, but the ground wires for everything are so small (14-16 gauge) that you just strip it a little long then fold it in half to get a little more bite. You could actually fit 2-3 wires in one opening if you wanted or needed to.
> 
> Also makes for a cleaner install since all wires run to 1 point.


 Hahaha this is the exact reason why I am asking actually. The blocks that I have seen have like 8 ga outputs... Thanks for the info! Sorry to clog up your thread.


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## hoopachalupa (Dec 1, 2008)

i have a distribution block for my grounds as well, did the exact thing rabiolet as far as getting some more bite. works like a champ.


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## [email protected] (Feb 19, 2010)

Hey Austin, your fittings are in route to Cali.


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## GnarPassatWagon (Mar 7, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Hey Austin, your fittings are in route to Cali.


 Thanks I can't wait


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## rickyislazy (Mar 24, 2008)




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## RPF1 (Dec 23, 2009)

hellasunk


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## GnarPassatWagon (Mar 7, 2009)

So Dope


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## arethirdytwo (Apr 4, 2007)

Mk5's can TUCK


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## dmoney (Apr 10, 2003)

holy **** it looks like your exhaust tips/bumper are almost on the ground


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## RPF1 (Dec 23, 2009)

updates?!?!


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## GnarPassatWagon (Mar 7, 2009)

Tonight I will post more sorry


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## RPF1 (Dec 23, 2009)

Wtf yo!!


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## GTIzlatko (Dec 14, 2006)

looks good


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## GnarPassatWagon (Mar 7, 2009)

Sorrrrrrry! 

Don't be all 

 Sooooo Next thing we had to do was cut up the rear...










Here is what the upper spring nipple looked like after I masacured it.











Also taking apart the front strut on a mk5 s a pain in the bum... but airlift madee it super easy because the new struts already have a upper mount so it was a straight swap.










Here's the new struts with some Rold Gold. 










Leader line was put in 










Here's the leader line end witht he PTC 










Comparison between the Fk's and Airlift bags 










Now back to the rear. Here's what we needed to cut off the upper fram to make room for the elbow PTC fitting that goes on the rear bags.



















Rear bag assembly 










Bag bottum mount boled to the lower control arm...










Checking the placement of the upper mount. There is the PTC elbow fitting that had to clear the frame.










Then took out the bag so I could drill holes in the frame for the self tapping screw upper mounts.











Damn Gotta run. I'll post more later


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## dmoney (Apr 10, 2003)

yay!! love these updates. maybe i missed it, but why did you take the front spindle off?


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## GnarPassatWagon (Mar 7, 2009)

dmoney said:


> yay!! love these updates. maybe i missed it, but why did you take the front spindle off?


On mk5's to remove the front shock you need to remove the spindle bolt to pull the hub away from the car.... Crazy retarded right? and vw expects you to chang ethe bolts every time they are removed. Which we did.


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## RPF1 (Dec 23, 2009)

:thumb:


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## MRGTI_2U (Dec 14, 2009)

GnarPassatWagon said:


> On mk5's to remove the front shock you need to remove the spindle bolt to pull the hub away from the car.... Crazy retarded right? and vw expects you to chang ethe bolts every time they are removed. Which we did.


you dont have to remove it if you dont want to. i didnt remove the bolt from the hub. A vw tech told me you can just throw on some lock tight on the bolt and put it back in.


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## GnarPassatWagon (Mar 7, 2009)

Oh got ya... well ricky ended up getting the new bolts. cause he had the old style spindle bolts.


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## dmoney (Apr 10, 2003)

oh wow, retarded indeed


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## GnarPassatWagon (Mar 7, 2009)

Had to run to a haircut. now....


Next step. Test fitted the upper mount self tapping screws. Fit nice in the pilot holes I drilled 










Here is the bag mounted and the shock half mounted.










Here is the rear fully assembled and installed 










Bags are allllllll mounted in..... around 5am! time to run airlines.










Another shot of the rear left set up.












AIRLINE INSTALL.

Up to this point I've felt pretty comfortable with everything we were gonna do.. It was all bolts and screws. But airlines. Especially these kinds of airlines, I have never worked with them before all I knew is... Keep away from heat sources and rubbing.... The last thing you want is a leak.. Especially one that is so far under the car where you can't reach it.

So When you run airlines. Make sure they are:

-Away from heat sources (exhaust)
-Away from moving parts
-Away from places where depris can easily kick up and damage or put a hole in the airlines.

Pretty much treat these things like they're made of latex or something 

Now mk5's have these nice little holes in the bottom of the wheel well. We used them to run the airlines to the bags 

So we popped out the rubber plugs (Took a bit of force) ... One on each side of the spare wheel well. Closer to the front of the car



















Mk5's have plastic undercarrage guards that you will want to remove... and clean out.. we found lots of sand and pebbles.... (Don't know where Ricky is driving )  










Now Where we Chose to run the airlines.. If you don't agree or think we did it in a bad way. Please suggest something better don't just bash.. Be constructive not destructive :thumb:

This is the REAR LEFT airline going out the LEFT plug in the floor. The exhaust runs right inbetween these two holes in the spare wheel well. (Not sure about the R32) SO with that we chose not to run airlines across that middle section at all. 

Now Keep in mind these are all pictures from under the car looking up at the chassis so everything is backwards.










Now if you look closely in the top left corner you can see the airline coming out of the top left wheel well hole.... It runs over the control arm over the exhaust mount and if you look in the bottom right corner of the picture below, you can see the airline curve and conenct into the bag.










I'm holding the airline in this picture below as it wraps around the wheel well hump and then does A vertical U-turn to the manifold Elbow fitting.










here it is doing the vertical U-turn into the PTC fitting 










Now the RIGHT REAR does essentially the same thing as the left side was doing. Goes around the left side of the hump and through the right hole in the wheel well.










Here's the airlines running over the left rear control arm.










Here's a further away picture of the Control arm and the airline running over it.










The airline curving, out in the wheel well and connecting to the bag.










Now this is the airline curving around the wheel well center hump on the left side and connecting into the same rear manifold.










And a close up of the rear manifold and the second airline connecting into it. 










Alright I'll post the fronts later! Hope you guys like!


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## dmoney (Apr 10, 2003)

I've never been so excited to see pictures posted. I'll say it again, this thread is great!!


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## GnarPassatWagon (Mar 7, 2009)

Thanks for the kind works dmoney  still more coming!


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## derryo (Apr 16, 2007)

stupid question... what gauge wire did you use for the accessory power/add-a-circuit to the ecu?


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## Aloha-boy (Mar 9, 2001)

Super informative! Looking forward to how you guys ran the front lines!


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## GnarPassatWagon (Mar 7, 2009)

not a stupid question... Haha, we went to Lowe's and picked up some 14 gauge wire. you could use 16 too either one is fine. This wire is just to tell the whole air management when to turn on or off.


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## mcqueenb2 (Feb 6, 2009)

awesome thread man... going to be a great help when i start my air build this summer


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## charmersfh (May 13, 2004)

what a great thread! this should be stickyed!


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## RPF1 (Dec 23, 2009)

running the airline through those drain plugs is genius!! did you guys find a way to somehow seal it back up?? cause thats a pretty big hole.. lol


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## GnarPassatWagon (Mar 7, 2009)

RPF1 said:


> running the airline through those drain plugs is genius!! did you guys find a way to somehow seal it back up?? cause thats a pretty big hole.. lol


Thanks for all the kind words everyone  Been busy working on my passat. a ton of parts come in tomorrow so look out for my own thread too.  Glad this is helpful.

We didn't show it but we added cardboard to wrap around the airlines as they pass through those holes so there isn't any rubbing going on  but Kind curious how we could plug them up as well. I imagine abig gromet or lots of silicone sealent. haha


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## DubberNix (Jan 29, 2002)

If you still have the drain plugs, just drill holes through them for the lines and put them back in.


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## derryo (Apr 16, 2007)

DubberNix said:


> If you still have the drain plugs, just drill holes through them for the lines and put them back in.


ahh, great idea...


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## mk5_dub (Feb 4, 2009)

Hey hey heyyy! Lookin good Ricky! Started mine yesterday! Got everything but the accuair manifold but thats comming in monday! John helped me last night get the box all set up and we mounted the compressors. Gonna post a buid thread tonight. Look out for it. Gonna be sweet!


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## DubberNix (Jan 29, 2002)

mk5_dub said:


> Hey hey heyyy! Lookin good Ricky! Started mine yesterday! Got everything but the accuair manifold but thats comming in monday! John helped me last night get the box all set up and we mounted the compressors. Gonna post a buid thread tonight. Look out for it. Gonna be sweet!


Haha, settle down Danny, there is still a lot of work to do.:laugh:

Ricky and Austin - You guys did a great job, both on the install and on this build thread w/pics. What made you decide not to use a water trap? Danny's install would be cleaner without the traps, so I'm not sure if we're going to put them in or not. Have you tried draining the tank yet? I'd be curious to see how much water is in there after a week or two.


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## GnarPassatWagon (Mar 7, 2009)

DubberNix said:


> Haha, settle down Danny, there is still a lot of work to do.:laugh:
> 
> Ricky and Austin - You guys did a great job, both on the install and on this build thread w/pics. What made you decide not to use a water trap? Danny's install would be cleaner without the traps, so I'm not sure if we're going to put them in or not. Have you tried draining the tank yet? I'd be curious to see how much water is in there after a week or two.


USE A WATERTRAP... Especilly with a steel tank. Ricky has to empty it every week. especially with big night and day temperature changes. He has to order the right fittings to make it work. So that iwll be coming soon  IF you have an aluminum tank I still recommend using it aswell.

Thanks for the kind words  I've been working on mine like crazy I plan to make my build thread too. Just been so busy trying to get ready for wuste fest.  

Awesome Danny! glad to hear it's coming along. Looking forward to seeing your set up


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## derryo (Apr 16, 2007)

what gauge wire did you use from the distribution block to the compressor relay? i am trying to use 8g but cannot figure out how to attach it to the relay... (i suck)


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## dmoney (Apr 10, 2003)

probably smaller than 8 gauge...?


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## rickyislazy (Mar 24, 2008)

derryo said:


> what gauge wire did you use from the distribution block to the compressor relay? i am trying to use 8g but cannot figure out how to attach it to the relay... (i suck)


I am using the wire that came with my ecu, it looks like a 10ga.

Will eventually swap it out with an 8, use a female connector to attach the relay.


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## #Michgo (Jul 15, 2009)

Check pm's


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## derryo (Apr 16, 2007)

rickyislazy said:


> I am using the wire that came with my ecu, it looks like a 10ga.
> 
> Will eventually swap it out with an 8, use a female connector to attach the relay.


I was trying to find some female connectors for 8g but couldn't. Thanks.


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## GnarPassatWagon (Mar 7, 2009)

derryo said:


> I was trying to find some female connectors for 8g but couldn't. Thanks.


You will most likely have to specail order them. I would just stick with some 10 gauge for now it will work just fine. and you can find femal connectors for them.


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## Nick 430 (Aug 5, 2007)

did you just hook up the yellow power wire to one of the 8 gauge outputs?
or am i way off lol


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## hellaSmoked (Nov 24, 2004)

Very informative build.  I had no idea you had to go through all that to remove the front struts on a mkV. :screwy:


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## rickyislazy (Mar 24, 2008)

Nick 430 said:


> did you just hook up the yellow power wire to one of the 8 gauge outputs?
> or am i way off lol


That's exactly what we did.


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## GTIzlatko (Dec 14, 2006)

that looks awesome ... i really like the way the rears hook up.


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## vwracin86 (Mar 27, 2004)

I want to see more!!


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## rickyislazy (Mar 24, 2008)

Just threw the wheels on last night, will camber the rears in soon.


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## beacom (May 23, 2007)

looks soo good, Nice Work:thumbup:


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## RPF1 (Dec 23, 2009)

ohhh myyyy!! nothing but heat from this dude.


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## Ultimatetaba (Feb 18, 2005)

WHAAAATTT?!?! Dude..insane man! Looks so sweet. Have you rolled your fenders yet? Do you even need to? Liners in the front holding you up at all? Those are problems I have that are keeping me up  But Ricky, looks great with the wheels. I've been meaning to camber the rears in too. :thumbup::thumbup:


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## rickyislazy (Mar 24, 2008)

Thanks Jason, glad that you like it.

Rolled the fenders a year ago, will do something about the liners once I get the rears tucked. 

The first row of subframe bolts are on the floor already.


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## rickyislazy (Mar 24, 2008)

Got an alignment today, cambered in the rears


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## BlsdEsquire (Mar 3, 2010)

Swwwweeeeeettttt!!!!!!!!!!!!! Gotta love air!!!!


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## msuzuki126 (Jun 15, 2007)

dope camber. lookin great :thumbup:


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## Ultimatetaba (Feb 18, 2005)

Dude. Can't wait to see this at Wuste!


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## RPF1 (Dec 23, 2009)

iSweat


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## rickyislazy (Mar 24, 2008)

Thanks everyone!


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## [email protected] (Feb 19, 2010)

Aww sweet Ricky! 

Mind if I steal a few of your pics?


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## hoopachalupa (Dec 1, 2008)

looking real good. came a long ways since speed zone


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## RobbDizzle (Aug 22, 2007)

Looks awesome, great build thread. 

Quick question(s)... since you ground down the rear suspension, there's pretty much no turning back, huh? Are there any (rear) bag setups that don't require grinding of the rear suspension to remove the nipples etc.? Probably not but I figured I'd ask.


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## KRuGAH (Feb 21, 2008)

RobbDizzle said:


> Looks awesome, great build thread.
> 
> Quick question(s)... since you ground down the rear suspension, there's pretty much no turning back, huh? Are there any (rear) bag setups that don't require grinding of the rear suspension to remove the nipples etc.? Probably not but I figured I'd ask.


 i was wondering why the cut all that off. i thought on the air-lift site it said bolt-on 
from the site: 
MKV Rear Kit 
• Incredible 5-7/8” drop! 
• Progressive rate springs 
provide smooth ride and 
no compromise handling 
• 100% bolt-on for easy 
installation


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## BklynMKV (Mar 24, 2008)

RobbDizzle said:


> Looks awesome, great build thread.
> 
> Quick question(s)... since you ground down the rear suspension, there's pretty much no turning back, huh? Are there any (rear) bag setups that don't require grinding of the rear suspension to remove the nipples etc.? Probably not but I figured I'd ask.


 Bagyards don't require you to grind down or remove the rear nipple. plug+play front and rear.


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## DubberNix (Jan 29, 2002)

The new Airlift XLs are all about low, not so much about bolt on. The top bracket puts the top of the bag right up against the frame and the bottom of the bag bolts flush with the trailing arm. If that's too much cutting for you, most other setups (Bagyard, D-Cups, B2B) work around the upper and lower nipples, but they sacrifice a little bit of low to do it...and some people feel that every fraction of an inch counts.


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## F4UH8TRS (Dec 3, 2009)

Car looks great, im liking the new wheels. 

im a mini trucker and we say, "BOLT ON" if it doesn't have to welded.


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## mk5_dub (Feb 4, 2009)

Yo Ricky! Car looks sick! Me you and mike gotta get a photo shoot soon!


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## furr (Jul 3, 2009)

car looks great


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## [email protected] (Feb 19, 2010)

BklynMKV said:


> Bagyards don't require you to grind down or remove the rear nipple. plug+play front and rear.


 Air Lifts come in two versions, the standard version is 100% bolt-on, the XLs require some grinding. 



mk5_dub said:


> Yo Ricky! Car looks sick! Me you and mike gotta get a photo shoot soon!


 Danny! Send me some pics of your car man, it looks sick.


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## mk5_dub (Feb 4, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Danny! Send me some pics of your car man, it looks sick.


 what's going on will. Thanks man. Yeah ill definitely send you some pics. Gotta whore it out now. :laugh:


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## abbixx (Aug 22, 2009)

Looks incredible ! Any idea how much they were poking in the back and how much ° you cambered them to get them in?


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## rickyislazy (Mar 24, 2008)

abbixx said:


> Looks incredible ! Any idea how much they were poking in the back and how much ° you cambered them to get them in?


It was sitting on tire right above the lip, I just maxed out the camber. 

Didn't have to but it looks cool. Might need to add a 5mm spacer now.


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## rickyislazy (Mar 24, 2008)

*Recent Shots*

Forgot to add these in here


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## rickyislazy (Mar 24, 2008)

Sold the BBS and got these, refinishing is on the way.


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## Ben from RI (Jun 5, 2009)

love that origonality


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## Nobelium (Apr 25, 2007)

subscribed


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## the fuzzy one (Oct 29, 2005)

rickyislazy said:


> Sold the BBS and got these, refinishing is on the way.


car looks awsome and glad these wheels are back on a mkv


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## rickyislazy (Mar 24, 2008)




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## wagner17 (Oct 20, 2009)

i love how low the xls go


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## defrost (May 26, 2006)

are those 17's or 18's?


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## rickyislazy (Mar 24, 2008)




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## rickyislazy (Mar 24, 2008)

defrost said:


> are those 17's or 18's?


17


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## mike000 (Jun 21, 2008)

hella 90s wheels haha


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## Ben from RI (Jun 5, 2009)

^ i like em


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## brian92390 (Jul 29, 2007)

ive been looking for those wheels for so long where did you get them


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## rickyislazy (Mar 24, 2008)

golfmkv classifieds


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## rabriolet (May 27, 2005)

brian92390 said:


> ive been looking for those wheels for so long where did you get them


 I've found 2 sets already without even looking. 

1 piece Brabus aand a set of 2 or 3 piece. they were doooooooope 


1 piece: 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/17-C...1722641?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/17-O...3235108?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories 


2 piece: 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Brab...7366118?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories


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## JesseAirLiftCompany (Aug 5, 2009)

Those tri spokes are bad as hell!!!


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## guesswho (May 9, 2009)

just read this entire thread! :thumbup: for a clean AND informative install. i need to do some re-wiring when i get back home in about a month so this will help out immensely. i ran my ecu to the accessory wire (12v "cig lighter") in the rear (next to the tail lights) and ran my main power straight to the compressor wire. works all right right now but i had a few "ecu not detected" readings for a while. not sure why but i think it was all due to my wiring job. needing more power and or something and possibly small shorts. 
anyway, thanks for the write up, im gonna try that add a circut and use a distributor block now. should have done it the first time. :beer:


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## brian92390 (Jul 29, 2007)

rabriolet said:


> I've found 2 sets already without even looking.
> 
> 1 piece Brabus aand a set of 2 or 3 piece. they were doooooooope
> 
> ...


 

i'm looking for the work wheels


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## rickyislazy (Mar 24, 2008)




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## rickyislazy (Mar 24, 2008)




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## powdub (Oct 27, 2009)

steezy :thumbup:


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## bkby69 (Feb 22, 2010)

Great build,car looks good:thumbup:


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## d.tek (Nov 28, 2004)

the jetta front is a subtle touch that ties the chrome all the way around the car, good work man love your car.


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## DubberNix (Jan 29, 2002)

d.tek said:


> the jetta front is a subtle touch that ties the chrome all the way around the car, good work man love your car.


Agreed, nice work Ricky:thumbup:


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## rickyislazy (Mar 24, 2008)

Thanks everyone


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## tspooner (Feb 28, 2010)

not sure if is mentioned. but did you grind down inside of the conrol arm so the bag dosent rub? i just installed my rear bags today and their rubbing pretty bad on the arm. looking for solutions.


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## rickyislazy (Mar 24, 2008)

tspooner said:


> not sure if is mentioned. but did you grind down inside of the conrol arm so the bag dosent rub? i just installed my rear bags today and their rubbing pretty bad on the arm. looking for solutions.



Feel it with your hand around the bag at your drive height. 
Use the bottom washer to move the bag away from where it is rubbing.
I had to do that plenty of times until it was just right.


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## tspooner (Feb 28, 2010)

rickyislazy said:


> Feel it with your hand around the bag at your drive height.
> Use the bottom washer to move the bag away from where it is rubbing.
> I had to do that plenty of times until it was just right.


so you grinded the hole out more so the bag could move? i mentioned this to a friend and he said that if i did that the bag would be slanted and wouldnt sleve correctly.


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