# Date code on Redline Oil bottles??



## 30th_edition (Jan 29, 2011)

Just purchased a case of 5w-40 and the API recommendations seem a bit old.

Stamped Black digits on the bottom edge of the bottle.

57139
7809-002174


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## saaber2 (Jul 15, 2008)

I would ignore the API language. Remember to meet API SN for example, redline would have to use "pre approved", or "pre tested" to be more accurate, additive packages. These additive packages are designed for fuel economy among other things. There are always tradeoffs in oil formulations and emphasizing fuel economy may impact other parts of the formulation. Redline appears to be more interested in using the best additive package to make the best oil, not having to use pre-tested additive packages that may be geared more toward fuel economy. The language on the bottle is something like "recommend for" API such and such or similar. They don't say it is API-approved, which would mean the additive package has been tested which is unbelievably expensive. The expense of testing is one reason why so many oil companies buy their base additive package from only a couple suppliers such as Lubrizol. I for one want the best oil that I can get, not one built down to specs that force the formulator to make tradeoffs, such as for fuel economy.


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## 30th_edition (Jan 29, 2011)

Thanks, saaber2.

I also called the Redline tech Line and pretty much received the same response.

On a side note: They suggested I also let the car warm up for 5 mins or so be for I drive,and that the start and drive motto these days could aid in engine sludging.The tech said they all run 10K changes with warmups.


Funny when I was a kid warming up the car was mandatory,or she never ran that well.I have always let the car run till the idle kicked down,but the 5-10 min warmup just it not in my routine.


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## saaber2 (Jul 15, 2008)

I definitely would not let a 2.0 FSI sit and idle for 5 minutes every morning. These engines suffer horribly from fuel dilution. Fuel dilution wreaks havoc with the oil and is likely one of the major reasons this engine is so hard on oil. Excessive idling increases fuel dilution. Driving it right away and moderately is the best way to go. 

Also, I haven't tested it myself but I suspect that excessive idling and the slower warm up time caused by trying to warm up the engine by idling would lead to faster buildup of valve deposits. In testing, we're seeing a big difference in city vs. highway use in terms of valve deposit buildup.

If that was a redline tech they should know better than that. We have redline 5w40 UOAs in the database runs that are short trips with inadequate warm up and they look much worse than the normal warmup redline 5w40 UOAs. 

When you say they run 10k, were they talking about the 2.0 FSI? Are they looking at UOAs at 10k to see if the oil is holding up? I could blindly run to 50k oil changes if I wanted to but it would not be wise. We have a UOA database of about 120 UOAs now for this engine and 5k seems to be about the farthest one would want to go. The exception is the 2.0 FSI cars that run all or nearly all highway miles. Those UOAs look just fine at 10k (almost regardless of oil type) and could possibly go longer. The 2.0 FSI beats the heck out of oils very quickly in mixed city/highway usage.


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## rhouse181 (Apr 13, 2008)

saaber2 said:


> I definitely would not let a 2.0 FSI sit and idle for 5 minutes every morning. These engines suffer horribly from fuel dilution. Fuel dilution wreaks havoc with the oil and is likely one of the major reasons this engine is so hard on oil. Excessive idling increases fuel dilution. Driving it right away and moderately is the best way to go.


:thumbup:


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