# bleeding brakes...... last bleeder valve is stuck/stripped



## ryannyc (Jun 27, 2014)

almost done bleeding my brake system since the car was sitting. all went fine until i got to the last wheel
drivers front.

the screw wont move even after soaking in wd-40. my adapter for my ratchet broke. i tried a vise grip and its making the screw worse. also tried my heatgun.

anyone knows any tricks? 


would i be able to bleed the last caliper from the brake line? really need to move my car for a few days due to yard work.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

ryannyc said:


> also tried my heatgun.


heat gun like blows hot air? 

You need fire.


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## G0to60 (Jun 23, 2003)

Yeah, I would try a torch to help break that thing free.


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## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

is it broken off inside the caliper? sounds like probably not...

can you get a flare wrench over the bleeder? thats what i prefer to use, i wouldnt touch a bleeder with an open ended wrench or a socket that isnt 6 sided.

get a pick and see if you can scrape away any grime or nastiness around the threads at the caliper, and start soaking it in pb blaster or kryoil. be careful with fire around brake lines/fluid. but heat would be a good step after youve tried penetrating oil for a day or so.


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## jreed1337 (Jun 30, 2009)

wd is crap. try out some pb blaster and let it soak for a few hours/overnight. multiple applications help as well.


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## ryannyc (Jun 27, 2014)

rs4-380 said:


> heat gun like blows hot air?
> 
> You need fire.


yes got it red hot


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## ryannyc (Jun 27, 2014)

ValveCoverGasket said:


> is it broken off inside the caliper? sounds like probably not...
> 
> can you get a flare wrench over the bleeder? thats what i prefer to use, i wouldnt touch a bleeder with an open ended wrench or a socket that isnt 6 sided.
> 
> get a pick and see if you can scrape away any grime or nastiness around the threads at the caliper, and start soaking it in pb blaster or kryoil. be careful with fire around brake lines/fluid. but heat would be a good step after youve tried penetrating oil for a day or so.


not broken just rounded off. will get some pb blaster


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## Spike00513 (Jul 13, 2012)

,


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

jreed1337 said:


> wd is crap. try out some Break Free and let it soak for a few hours/overnight. multiple applications help as well.


Fixed.

Also, try to _tighten_ it just enough to get it to move the slightest amount. Once it has moved even a tiny, tiny bit it'll come right out. Sometimes you can tighten-loosen-tighten-loosen it and it'll break loose.

Be careful, as bleeder valves are soft metal, but that's intentional. You can sometimes remove a broken bleeder with an easy-out.

Also, yeah, you can often bleed them at the line unless there's a big air pocket _above_ the line attachment point. If you can move it to where the line is at the high point, so much the better.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Spike00513 said:


> Thermally expand it with heat via the likes of MAP gas, then spray AeroKroil to be drawn into the threads via thermal contraction.
> Physical shock (IE, hammer) can also help, as well as a greater temp. differential act of thermal contraction by spraying cold water on a heated part.
> The more grip the socket has, the better.
> A 12pt socket (or wrench) doesn't grip a 6pt hex as well as - you guessed it, a 6pt hex socket. Not to mention tool quality in respect to tolerance.
> ...


These. I've heard good things about Kroil, but I've never tried it.


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## Aseras (Dec 2, 2010)

Hit it with a hammer just like a nail. Tap it a few times good. just enough to barely dent the metal, don't break it off. It should come loose and then use the vice grips.

Heat on brakes is almost worthless, they get way hotter than you are going to want to torch them in everyday use. Then if you do get it loose you have molten hydraulic fluid on your hand. Not fun.

You could also find an old crap socket set and find a socket you can hammer down over the bleeder tight, or epoxy onto the top of what is showing. wait till next day and hope it comes off without breaking off.


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## 4.OMG (Dec 20, 2004)

I wouldn't use a torch on a caliper I wasn't planning on rebuilding. Getting it hot enough to do anything is going to smoke any rubber seals.

You can try using an extractor for rounded bolts, but if you've already rounded it off, it's already part of the way to breaking off, so be prepared for that (soft metal, as Air and water pointed out). As far as penetrating oil, mix some acetone and transmission fluid and brush it on. Let it sit overnight. This works better than anything you can buy off the shelf.

Sometimes it's easier to pull the caliper off preemptively so you can work with it on your workbench. Being able to see what you're doing and not working under the car can give you the angle you need to not snap the bleeder off.


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## AKADriver (Nov 20, 2001)

Last time this happened to me, a reman caliper at napa was cheaper than the cost of buying the right tools to extract the bleeder.:laugh:


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## 4.OMG (Dec 20, 2004)

Air and water do mix said:


> These. I've heard good things about Kroil, but I've never tried it.


It works, but it stinks to high heaven. To me, it doesn't work that much better than Liquid Wrench to justify the cost and the stench.


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## A4Ryan (Jul 8, 2005)

Impact driver Ryan... Impact driver


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## burn_your_money (Oct 4, 2004)

Why are you bleeding the system? How do the brakes feel? Maybe you don't need to open up the 4th bleeder.


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## 4motionvr6dub (Nov 3, 2010)

Aseras said:


> You could also find an old crap socket set and find a socket you can hammer down over the bleeder tight


This

I had a bleeder valve strip on me last summer, same wheel too except it was the first one in the bleeding order. 

I grabbed a 12pt deep socket one size too small and hammered it onto the valve until it gripped it tightly. It came right off with a 1/4" ratchet.


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## ryannyc (Jun 27, 2014)

burn_your_money said:


> Why are you bleeding the system? How do the brakes feel? Maybe you don't need to open up the 4th bleeder.



car was parked for a year

brake pedal is soft

brake pedal goes to the floor to stop the car


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## ryannyc (Jun 27, 2014)

tried pb blaster/hammer/vise grips and no luck. i guess its time for a new caliper


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## boner (May 19, 2002)

4motionvr6dub said:


> I grabbed a 12pt deep socket one size too small and hammered it onto the valve until it gripped it tightly. It came right off with a 1/4" ratchet.


this plus propane or MAP torch. DO NOT force it, you will break the bleeder screw in the caliper and then you are fooked. last time I dealt with old crsty calipers, I put a propane torch on the caliper area near the screw and walked away for 5 mins. the caliper needs to get HOT so it expands.

same method for the sliders that inevitable get frozen into the carriers. lots of heat is your only weapon.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

ryannyc said:


> car was parked for a year
> 
> brake pedal is soft
> 
> brake pedal goes to the floor to stop the car


Woof. Get that watery brake fluid out of there! Brake fluid (except silicone brake fluid) is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water right out of the air. Since water is heavier than brake fluid the water sinks to the bottom of the system/individual parts and starts rusting cast iron. 

Brake fluid should be completely flushed every two years, driven or not. :beer:


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## geofftii2002 (Nov 6, 2001)

ryannyc said:


> yes got it red hot


Remember, there's brake fluid in there. Brake fluid is flammable. 

There are also rubber seals and dust boots, also flammable and susceptible to heat damage. 

Soak the ever living bejeebus out of it with Silikroil or PB Blaster, tap gently, repeat.


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## geofftii2002 (Nov 6, 2001)

Air and water do mix said:


> Woof. Get that watery brake fluid out of there! Brake fluid (except silicone brake fluid) is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water right out of the air. Since water is heavier than brake fluid the water sinks to the bottom of the system/individual parts and starts rusting cast iron.
> 
> Brake fluid should be completely flushed every two years, driven or not. :beer:



And the problem with Silicon brake fluid is that its nasty toward your rubber seals. We were firm believers in Castrol GT-LMA (low moisture absorption) at the resto shop. Very good for cars that sit.


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## Tiero (Feb 13, 2007)

ryannyc said:


> tried pb blaster/hammer/vise grips and no luck. i guess its time for a new caliper


Spray PB blaster on it and tap the top with a hammer. Rinse and a repeat a few times giving it 5 minutes to work in between. Then get a big pair of vice grips and clamp it to the point where the vice grips bite deep into the metal. It should come out unless it's completely fused to the caliper. I've never had a bolt/bleeder that didn't come out this way.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

geofftii2002 said:


> And the problem with Silicon brake fluid is that its nasty toward your rubber seals. We were firm believers in Castrol GT-LMA (low moisture absorption) at the resto shop. Very good for cars that sit.


Did not know that. Thanks!


As I'm certain you already know (but others likely don't) Castrol (DOT 4) is absolutely _required_ for British cars with live rubber seals, too. Regular DOT 3 will swell-up the live rubber and you'll wind up rebuilding everything in your brake, and possibly clutch, systems.

A friend with a TR8 found out the hard way! :laugh:


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