# Just got a TT and I'm not sure where to start. (3 codes)



## gildox1882 (Sep 14, 2013)

I have got these 3 codes p0411 p0422 p1136. I just got my 2001 Audi TT 225 Quattro a couple of months ago and it really hasn't felt right. Kinda laggy throttle in my opinion. I'm not sure what area to target first.

P1136 Bank1, mixture adaption (add.) system too lean. Fuel pressure regulator and residual pressure, checking --> Fuel pressure regulator and residual pressure, checking.

P0411 Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected

P0422 Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1

Thanks


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## lucpost (Dec 19, 2011)

Check all your vacuum lines first. 


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## gildox1882 (Sep 14, 2013)

Ok, I'll get some parts together and test with air pressure asap. I'll let you know what I find.


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## gildox1882 (Sep 14, 2013)

I put about 10 psi into the intake and found one hose clamp not working and air was leaking out. It's being held on with a onesy hose clamp. Can I just cut it off and use a worm gear clamp?










The secondary line has been broke and someone is using a zip screw to hold it together.


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## Aaron16V1.8l (Aug 12, 2007)

Its no problem to replace that clamp with a worm clamp. Just be sure that the actual hose is not split as that is a common boost leak location. I'm not sure about the secondary air hose - hopefully someone else will chime in.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

The hose in the second picture doesn't matter and isn't your problem. It's just the inlet feed from the filtered side of the airbox that goes to the secondary air injection pump. The other two codes won't affect how the engine runs, but the SAI code could be another vac leak to the combi valve and/or it's solenoid that is under the intake manifold. Fix the one leak, and pressure test again.


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## MCPaudiTT (Nov 26, 2006)

20v master said:


> ... but the SAI code could be another vac leak to the combi valve and/or it's solenoid that is under the intake manifold.


Or the SAI pump is failed, a VERY common issue. You can remove the pump and replace the stretched/failed rivets with bolts and that solves the issue (if it is the cause). 

http://wiki.quattroworld.com/index.php?title=TT.Mk1_SAI_pump_rebuild


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## gildox1882 (Sep 14, 2013)

*Found a split*

Found a split in the middle when I thought it was the clamp. I have been digging for a while... is there any easy way to fix/replace this? I see I can't just buy a replacement from Audi.










The only aftermarket part I see is this from Forge Motorsport that people have been using, but what happens to the third hose?

http://www.motorsport-tools.com/for...one-u-shaped-brake-vacuum-hose-fmttuhose.html 



I also see a used one on ebay, but I'm kinda sketchy on getting another one since I see these have been failing a lot.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261833682884?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


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## Aaron16V1.8l (Aug 12, 2007)

The Forge one is your best bet. That top part only holds the brake booster hose to it. I agree it would be nice to have an aftermarket one just like the original though.


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## gildox1882 (Sep 14, 2013)

Got one coming in the mail. It'll be a couple weeks. Next I'll glue up the bad one and see what else I can find. Thanks for the help so far guys.


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## MCPaudiTT (Nov 26, 2006)

gildox1882 said:


>


You can fix that with heater hose. The top two are connected, the bottom one is just "bonded" on to keep vibration down (no connection on the third/bottom hose).


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## gildox1882 (Sep 14, 2013)

*Update*

Found more problems. I went to replace the bad piece and found more cracked hoses on the tee with the flow check. 











I also cracked the suction pump vent purge valve. I ordered some new parts. 









I then found the brake assist line also had a crack on one end, and the other end has seen better days.









I picked up some silicone vacuum hose at amazon.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...ailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews

I drove around today and the check engine light came back on. I'm now down to one code P0422. I have also watched some youtube
videos with the smoke machine $1,000+ and a couple used fog machines. I ordered one for $40 to help find more leaks.


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## gildox1882 (Sep 14, 2013)

*Another bad hose*

I found the intake breather pipe was so soft it just collapsed. Here's a link for ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUDI-S3-TT-...669?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item23294f13f5. I replaced that and put on 50 miles, and now I'm just left with p0411. I'll check out the rivets MCPaudiTT once I can get on my friends lift. I also saw this video on youtube for a Passat to diagnose the secondary air injection pump. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IDV07Lcg0pA


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## gildox1882 (Sep 14, 2013)

*SAI Pump*

I made it to my friends garage and my SAI Pump had all 6 rivets broken. I repaired them and changed the lower O2 sensor this week. Now I still have P1136 (Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Add): System too Lean and P1113 Oxygen Sensor: B1 S1 Internal Resistance too high. I'm going to give it another fog test for more hose leaks. Should I replace the upper O2 sensor too?


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

P1136 is still a vacuum leak, so you should look under the intake manifold at both of the small lines (one goes to the Fuel Pressure Regulator; the other goes somewhere that I can't remember, but they can both cause big boost leaks and vacuum leaks. You may want to inspect all of the lines leading to your brake booster as well. The hard plastic lines are notorious for cracking, as you've already seen. Repair as necessary.

B1 S1 internal resistance too high sounds like a bad circuit on your pre-cat O2 sensor. I've gotten this before, and it was actually my fault: I had removed the harness to the sensor, and when I put it back on, since the harness was partially broken, I put it on backward, i.e. instead of matching 1-2-3-4 to 1-2-3-4, I had matched 1-2-3-4 to 4-3-2-1, frying my O2 sensor by hooking it up to the O2 heater circuit. Generic Bosch with and proper wire splicing should solve this one, just don't do what I did and fry a new sensor


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## gildox1882 (Sep 14, 2013)

*Update*

I was only able to do the upper o2 sensor this weekend, but it did give me a couple new codes. P0300 Random misfire, and P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire. I'm going to replace plugs and wires... any suggestions?

I also still have the P1136 to take care of. I did read somewhere, I don't recall, that the Fuel Pressure Regulator can also give me the P1136 code. It does make a louder noise that I don't think would be normal. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...-FUEL-Fuel_Pressure_Regulator_Replacement.htm 

Here's one pic from the page. I'm going to check out the vacuum lines and FPR asap.


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

Like I said before, there are two small vacuum lines that connect to the intake manifold via small nipples on the bottom of the manifold. One of them, probably the one that leads to the FPR, is cracked and leaking like crazy.

At least I hope that's it. Way cheaper..


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## SteveCJr (Aug 3, 2008)

I solved my P1136 code by replacing my FPR. You can see the plastic is cracked and the mesh is ripped.


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## gildox1882 (Sep 14, 2013)

Thanks SteveCJr, I'll definitely check that out too. Tonight I found another leak, using 5 psi, in 06A103221AA.







I ordered an aftermarket replacement and put some silicone on it so I can check for more tomorrow.


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## Aaron16V1.8l (Aug 12, 2007)

Is that the pcv outlet to the hockey puck? You should have the pcv system taken out of the loop during boost leak testing or run the risk of pushing oil up your intake. Its by no means the end of the world, you just might smoke a little when you start it up. I guess you would not have found the leak if it had been unplugged either, so its not all bad. You can disconnect the hose from the puck that goes to the tip and put a wine cork in the tip with a hose clamp.


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## gildox1882 (Sep 14, 2013)

It's this fitting












I have been putting in 5 psi just after the air filter. I loosened the oil cap to let the air pressure escape. It flaps a little bit, like an exhaust rain cap flapper, and helps push air out of the hose leaks. I didn't know about the risk of pushing oil up the intake. I haven't noticed any smoke yet... noob luck?


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## gildox1882 (Sep 14, 2013)

I finally took it to a shop today and they found that the Mass Air Flow sensor wasn't doing anything. It's part number 06A906461EX. Does anyone know where I can just get the airflow meter? Thanks


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## SteveCJr (Aug 3, 2008)

The sensor comes with the housing. I've never seen it sold without it. Couple places.

http://genuineaudiparts.com/parts/2001/Audi/TT Quattro/Base/index.cfm?siteid=214407

http://www.worldimpex.com/search_by_partno.html?searchmode=partno&partno=06A906461EX&x=0&y=0

http://www.audiusaparts.com/oe-audi/06a906461ex

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/06A906461EX/ES2570148/


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## gildox1882 (Sep 14, 2013)

Thanks Steve. I did some digging and found that 06A906461E is an original and 06A906461EX is a rebuilt (which is in my car now). I went ahead and ordered this one on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/300980368915?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT It's for the 225 AMU engine, part numbers match and only $29! Four others have bought this before me and no negative or neutral feedback left on this product.


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## SteveCJr (Aug 3, 2008)

Great find. I'll have to order myself one. If it doesn't work it's only $29 and i'm willing to accept the "get what you pay for" clause.


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## gildox1882 (Sep 14, 2013)

I'll let you know how it works once it shows up in the mail.


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## SteveCJr (Aug 3, 2008)

gildox1882 said:


> I'll let you know how it works once it shows up in the mail.


Got mine in the mail the other day and had some time today to put it in. And what do you know, it's no good. Readings are almost double of what they should be and my esp light came on just after one pull. Reading about 5 g/s at idle.

There are definitely noticeable differences between this sensor and the Bosch. First obvious one is the resister(?) that's used with the knock off sensor and not on the Bosch. Not sure why it's there and there was no difference with or without it.









Also the actual sensor head is quite different. Bosch is straight through and the other has some sort of metal ball in there. /shrug









Also worth noting, my p1136 code for being to lean has slowly came back. even after replacing the FPR and the CEL shutting it self off. With this MAF installed my part throttle fuel trim went from +10.5% to about -7% after only driving a couple miles. Going from too lean to almost too rich.


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## gildox1882 (Sep 14, 2013)

I got mine in the mail today and noticed they were quite a bit apart. My factory one was very tight and this one has about 1/16" gap all around. Maybe it was designed that way  Doesn't make much sense but at all, but I'm trying to be optimistic at this point.









I don't know if mine is working good or not, probably not, but I did get 2 new codes tonight. P1297 Pressure drop between turbo and throttle valve (check D.V.!)

and P1557 Charge pressure control: Positive Deviation.

I found another thread with the same codes http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...urbo-itself-to-Leak-Air-P1297-and-P1557-codes

I'm going to replace the map sensor. Makes sense with everything else that has been bad to cause this sensor to go bad.


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## gildox1882 (Sep 14, 2013)

I didn't order anything yet. Would these codes come from the air gap (slop) around the sensor?


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## SteveCJr (Aug 3, 2008)

gildox1882 said:


> I didn't order anything yet. Would these codes come from the air gap (slop) around the sensor?


I can't say for sure but if its the only thing that was changed, then there's a good chance the codes are coming from the new sensor. Put the old one back in and see if it goes away. If you don't think it's the sensor itself you can use your old housing with the new sensor.


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## gildox1882 (Sep 14, 2013)

I put the new sensor in the old housing. I had to break out a dremel and make it a flathead since nobody in town has the 5 point TORX tamper proof bits. It remains the same with the P1297 and P1557 codes. So I'm just going to order a MAP sensor and N75 turbo boost control valve since my cars previous owner didn't do any maintenance and I have a feeling all the sensors are messed up.


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## gildox1882 (Sep 14, 2013)

*Update*

I replaced ignition coils 1 & 2, and found another bad vacuum line under the intake manifold on one of the 3.5mm lines. Car is running a lot better and turbo gauge is up from 6 to 8. I still have one code P1556: Charge Pressure Control: Negative Deviation.

Possible Solutions 


Check Hoses/Pipes to/between Components
Check Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75)
Check / Clean / Replace Charge Pressure Control
Check / Clean mechanism for variable nozzles


Are there any common fixes for this code?


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## gildox1882 (Sep 14, 2013)

I took off the EGR valve and it won't move. I tried to clean it out and still nothing so I have one ordered and will follow up after installed.


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## gildox1882 (Sep 14, 2013)

I got the new EGR today in the mail and it wouldn't move either. I don't know why because I read in another thread that to test it you just disconnect the 3.5mm hose, pinch it closed, and hook up another scrap hose and suck in on it and the car should stall or almost stall. I put it on anyway. I also replaced Ignition coils for cylinders 3 & 4 and went for a drive. (I don't know if it was the ignition coils or the N249) I got a new code P1287 (Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Open Circuit. I did some digging and ordered a solenoid valve 078 906 283A. Should I try removing the new N249 and put the old one back in? It does have over 150,000 miles on it.


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## gildox1882 (Sep 14, 2013)

Oh, one more thing... does anyone know the length of the vacuum lines? I have only seen this picture, but haven't found lengths to order.


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## gildox1882 (Sep 14, 2013)

N249 wasn't plugged back in after I disconnected it. Oops :facepalm: I have finally gotten rid of all the engine codes. I have gone about 20 miles, but the evap is still failed and no code. Am I missing something?


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## TheSchwartz (Sep 3, 2014)

I wanted to post because I noticed that you guys are using cheap Ebay mafs. This is a horrible option. let me tell you my experience, it is not unique. I purchased my 01 TTq (AMU engine) a few months ago with a list of issues, one of which was the MAF sensor. My first reaction was to purchase an Ebay MAF, just like you guys, the price was unbeatable, or so I thought. I never compared the sensors, the new with the one in the car, I just replaced it and moved on. I have to note at this time that my dash panel had the "check engine light" removed so at the time I figured that replaced=fixed and I was good to go, but as soon as I got the dash fixed the "check engine light" came on! MAF again! Some internet searching and I found some other 225 owners complaining of the same results and decided to order a used one for about 60 bucks and BINGO, problem solved.

Fast forward about 2 months and BOOM, MAFS out again! Some more internet searching and I find that running an aftermarket filter can, in some cases, lead to bad MAFS. I say "BS" keep my aftermarket filter, replace the MAFS again, and Im on my way. About a month ago the MAFS went out again! So this time there isnt a cheap used one for a 225 on ebay and I cant afford a new one from Audi so I began searching for another VAG product that utilizes the same sensor. The actual sensor inside the MAFS housing is a BOSCH F 00C 2G2 040 The part number is stamped in the plastic sensor body and is not visible while the sensor is in the housing. To note the sensor does NOT have the extra, long lead sensor, on the side of the sensor body. I found this sensor in MAFS marked 06A 906 461 E and D (EX or DX as well). I have found the D MAFS used on Ebay pretty cheap (sub 50 shipped) out of some Jettas. The Bosch sensors will fit the EBAY housings without and issue if you dont have an original E housing as the D housing is much smaller in diameter.


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## SteveCJr (Aug 3, 2008)

TheSchwartz said:


> I wanted to post because I noticed that you guys are using cheap Ebay mafs.


If you read the post, i only used it for about 10 minutes before i realized it was no good. Giving high readings a fault codes left and right. I figured for the price it was worth a shot.


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## gildox1882 (Sep 14, 2013)

*cheap ebay sensor*

I also ended up removing the cheap sensor. I was able to just use some MAF cleaner on my old one and got it working again. I also drove 40 miles tonight and satisfied the EVAP system. Now I just need to get my turbo above 8 psi.


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