# 09A GNZ transmission problem



## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Hello all,

I need help. I have a 2003 1.8T jetta with a 5speed automatic transmission (GNZ code).
Problem started with no 3rd speed available when cold, after running a few miles and tranny gets warm, 3rd speed will become available but in the meantime, tranny will shift rough from 2nd to 4th with rpms high (of course so it can reach the speed for 4th to be available). When the transmission is cold and if I try manual shifting, the transmission tries to engage 3rd speed but it can't then it goes back to second.
Now 1 more problem added to this, now whenever it's time for the 4th speed to kick in, it doesn't engage. It disengages 2nd(when cold) or 3rd(when warm) and it can't engage the 4th speed, rpms go up (of course due to not engaging the speed) and I have to wait for the rpms go down to idle speed and accelerate again so the 4th speed can kick in.
Recently, whenever I'm changing speeds manually, If i decrease from 5th to 4th or 4th to 3rd(when available) instead of rpms going up (like it should due to lowering the gear at higher vehicle speed) they go to idle speed.

I haven't check for codes yet, I will do that tonight and post whatever I find tomorrow. In the meantiem if anyone can help me solve this I will be forever thankful since I don't want to spend $5000 on a new tranny mad: I hate VW does this, not selling internal transmission parts  )

Thank you,
Jose Walters


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

no upshift cold is thoroughly covered here. Your hard shift could be sticky solenoids also. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...a-not-shifting-gears-from-1st-when-cold/page3


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## porschetek (Dec 3, 2010)

*Better source for solenoid kit*

Changing one solenoid does not help. Change all nine to eliminate solenoid probable cause. I just installed a set that I purchased from www.electricaladvantage.net 
electricaladvantage.net,1771 Harrison Pond Drive, New Albany OH 43054; $339 with free shipping and no tax. Cobra trans is more expensive. However, after work done, I have the same problem, only first and second gears. no 3rd, 4th or 5th no matter what I do. Looking at the power diagrams of the 09A textbook I'd think that the High Clutch has failed, as it is required for 3-4-5 drive. I hoped the solenoid kit would've fixed it, but no cigar. I need to source an used 09A and transfer the new solenoids.


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## porschetek (Dec 3, 2010)

*bump*



porschetek said:


> Changing one solenoid does not help. Change all nine to eliminate solenoid probable cause. I just installed a set that I purchased from www.electricaladvantage.net
> electricaladvantage.net,1771 Harrison Pond Drive, New Albany OH 43054; $339 with free shipping and no tax. Cobra trans is more expensive. However, after work done, I have the same problem, only first and second gears. no 3rd, 4th or 5th no matter what I do. Looking at the power diagrams of the 09A textbook I'd think that the High Clutch has failed, as it is required for 3-4-5 drive. I hoped the solenoid kit would've fixed it, but no cigar. I need to source an used 09A and transfer the new solenoids.


Thanks to Mazda MPV forums got the answer to my problem, as I suspected High clutch is burned. Took it out right in car, have ordered frictions and steel plates from Whatever it Takes transmissions since VW does not retail loose parts. I'll get back with update.


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## lsf627 (Mar 14, 2009)

*Update*

Please keep us updated on that one. I've got the same problem on my '02 1.8T. I was wondering how bad it would be to rebuild that trans, considering there are several sites that sell the rebuild parts.

thanks,


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

porschetek said:


> Thanks to Mazda MPV forums got the answer to my problem, as I suspected High clutch is burned. Took it out right in car, have ordered frictions and steel plates from Whatever it Takes transmissions since VW does not retail loose parts. I'll get back with update.


09A textbook? Do you mean the Self Study Program #232? That's the best reference I've found as to how the 09A works.

High clutch == K3, I take it (as on p20 of SSP#232)?

If that fixes your problem, it would be great if you could take some pictures and make a short how-to! Especially if you can do it without dropping the transmission ...


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

porschetek said:


> Thanks to Mazda MPV forums got the answer to my problem, as I suspected High clutch is burned. Took it out right in car, have ordered frictions and steel plates from Whatever it Takes transmissions since VW does not retail loose parts. I'll get back with update.


Make sure you find what caused the High clutch failure. It would be a shame to put it back together only to have it burn out again. Check to make sure the piston isn't cracked and check other areas that could leak pressure to the clutch.


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## lsf627 (Mar 14, 2009)

*Special tools?????*

Just wondering if you need special tools to take apart the tranny. Found this book on Ebay, 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0458911343&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Is this the book you are talking about?????

Thanks, Lee.


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## porschetek (Dec 3, 2010)

*VW 09A aka Jatco JF506E burned high clutch*

Thanks for all the questions, I'll try to give info as I go along. Removing the trans rear cover, in this case driver's side cover was not too complicated. it helps to remove the air filter housing, battery and tray, selector switch and loosen the 3 trans mount bolts and back them out enough that the cover clears the car's frame side by the left strut, I know pictures are best but I didn't take any yet. sorry, a little more time. With the cover out then you pull the reverse clutch/ hi clutch drum assembly off the trans and watch out for front and rear radial bearings. Later on I will post web addresses where you can download Mazda's trans repair manual and update for free. It is plenty for this repair. And some more addresses to facilitate this job. A shop press is needed to remove and install the hub circlip. I had bought a reverse/ high piston kit from Cobra, a rubber ring kit from WIT so I was ready to do it. Guess what, surprise, no cracked reverse or high pistons! Instead, a lowly outer rubber ring on the high clutch piston had lost a half inch piece allowing oil pressure to leak from high clutch and caused high clutch steels and frictions to drag until burned useless!! I am not too good at editing write ups, I will post as much linkage as I have found in the www to get this done. VW parts department sells replacement transes. There are alternatives. Please copy and paste:
http://forum.mpvclub.com/viewtopic.php?t=24788
http://forum.mpvclub.com/viewtopic.php?p=206434&sid=9a9e85e5fd854402cca90009e863f2c0
https://www.wittrans.com/signin.aspx
http://www.muddyoval.com/articles/fltech/transmission/JF506E Supplement Part 1.pdf


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## porschetek (Dec 3, 2010)

*Some more useful links*

http://www.automaticchoice.com/Catalogue/jf506e.pdf
http://www.transtec.com/tech_insert/94231.pdf


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

Nice job on the info gathering!!! Be sure to keep us updated.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Hello everybody,

So I finally finished disassembling the tranny.
I found so much metal shavings on the magnet, but these shavings account for 7 years of no service whatsoever.

Codes on the TCM were 00300 (Transmission Fluid Temp. Sensor (G93) - Implausible Signal), 00526 (Brake Light Switch (F): Circuit Malfunction), 00652 (Gear Monitoring: Implausible Signal).

I started this thread on march, so problems before I started dismounting the transmission (last week) were:
1.- No 3rd available when cold
2.- When warming up, 3rd, 4th and 5th not available, transmission will try to engage 3rd but can't so it goes back to 2nd, engine revs high disengages 2nd and will not engage any speed, if selector is moved to manual, display is on 5th, if selector is moved to 4th or 3rd no speed will be engaged, only 2nd when selected.
3.- When transmission is hot, 3rd will become available.
4.- When 4th and 5th are engaged (trans cold) transmission will slip
5.- Supercharger like whining

I see that the High/Reverse drum is damaged and also the brake metal band is worn and the direct clutch drum is a little scratched due to the brake band being worn.
That is all the damage I see.
I need some advice on replacing these parts or not but I think it will be better if you guys see the pictures.

And yes, you need to take down the tranny and open it to change the filter (some were wondering) I have the pictures just need to know how to attach them.

I have a lot of pictures of the transmission being dissambled but I do not know how to attach them, I see the icon to insert images but I do not know the URL to my local hardrive. Can anyone enlighten me in this matter?

Thank you very much.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

To post pics your gonna have to have a service Host them. Its free. 
Here's a write up I did for posting to another forum. Most of the info is the same.

http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=6632


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## 68ponys (Jun 2, 2008)

*09A trans*

Hey, I am hoping to get some good info here that will help me, thanks for posting! I have a 02 1.8T that slips into nuetral in 3, 4, 5 when the revs go over 2,200.... as long as I stay below that everything is fine. Not sure if it is a solonoid or something else?


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Hello everybody,

I will try to put some pictures.

This is the magnet full of metal shavings.



The thing is that the magnet is located at the bottom of the strainer and in order to have access to it you have to dismount the tranny.



The damage I found was on the High/Reverse drum, but I found out that this is included in the master kit I bought so I will replace it.




I owe you guys the picture of the direct clutch drum which is also damaged, I will take it today in the afternoon and post it as I'am at work right now, obviously not working hehehe:laugh:

In this picture you will see that transmission overheated, due to low ATF level.


All the bearings aren't showing any damage but I will change them just to play safe.

I will start with the assembly tomorrow so I will disassembly the clutch packs tomorrow and see the condition of the discs and metals in each pack.
I'm guessing 1st, 2nd and reverse will be OK but 3rd, 4th and 5th won't because transmission was slipping too much when those speeds were engaged.

I still need to check the wiring harnesses, I will do that tomorrow also and post any findings.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

Nice post! 

Does your rebuild kit come with the piston as well?


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

CoolAirVw said:


> Nice post!
> 
> Does your rebuild kit come with the piston as well?


Thanks

Yes it does come with the piston, at least that's what they told me, I will be picking the parts today at the store. The only thing I bought extra is the brake band.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Hello everybody,

I checked all friction plates and steel plates and I found the high clutch is burned.
This is one of the steel plates of the high clutch



This is one of the friction plates of the high clutch



They are no good, need to change them.

And this is the piston inside the high clutch drum, its all covered with burned ATF


I also found damage on the low clutch housing, I don't know if I should change these parts or just remove the metal burs. Can anyone tell me if transmission could fail if I only remove the metal instead of replacing these parts?



I still need to check the wiring harnesses. The rest of the tranny is OK, steel plates and friction discs are OK, only the high clutch is burned. My guessing is that solenoids started failing either because of bad wires or the solenoids themselves. Hardshifting to 4th led to premature wearing of the high clutch. After this, ATF leaked out of the tranny thru a bad axle seal leading to transmission overheating. Excess temperature on an already worn high clutch led to transmission failure.

What do you guys think? I will post later today what I find on the harnesses.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Hello everybody,

I checked all internal harnesses and they are all OK.
I checked also all solenoids and sensors and they seem to be fine. I cannot check the mechanical operation of the solenoids.

G182 Turbine-shaft speed sensor 400 to 600 ohms 571
G265 Intermediate-shaft speed sensor	400 to 600 ohms	587
G68 Output-shaft speed sensor 400 to 600 ohms	571
G93 temperature sensor ? 1.89K @ 18ºC room temperature
N88-SV 1 shift solenoid A 9 to 24 ohms	17.1
N92-SV5 Shift solenoid C 9 to 24 ohms	16.9
N91-SV4 TCC solenoid 9 to 24 ohms	17.1
N282-SV9 2/4 Timing Solenoid 9 to 24 ohms	14.1
N90-SV3 low-clutch timing solenoid	9 to 24 ohms	17.1
N281-SV8 Reduction-timing solenoid	9 to 24 ohms	17.2
N93-SV6 pressure-control solenoid	1 to 5 ohms	3.7
N89 SV-2 shift solenoid B 9 to 24 ohms	18.1
N283-SV10 2/4 duty solenoid 1 to 5 ohms	3.7

I got the 00300 code which is for the G93 and I didn't get the ECT sensor on the ECM so I guess something actually did happen in the tranny that triggered 00300. I think I will just replace G93. I have to keep reading to see how G93 should meassure at certain temperatures.

I still need to check the transmission to TCM harness. I will do that tomorrow and post what I find.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Hello everybody,

I checked the transmission to TCM wire harness and it is OK, no short circuits and no interruptions.
I can only assume sticky solenoids. What do you smart people think?

I will replace all 9 solenoids.
I found this page, in which they explain how they test solenoids at their lab. It's very useful information
http://rostratransmission.wordpress.com

I will continue with the tranny assembly and post later with pictures.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Hello everybody, 

Some were wondering about the check balls position in the valve body. 

Remeber this is for the valve body of an 09A with GNZ code, I don't know if this will change for another code. 

In the positions fully colored with red go chrome check balls and in the positions with three red lines go plastic (I think is plastic) check balls. 

Hope this can help out other people.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

I'm almost done with this rebuild, hehehe. It's taking me an eternity.

I broke some of the plastic connectors of the harness that connects the solenoids (terminals that are puggled on the solenoids). The harness is OK, it has no broken wires or anything and I don't want to spend another $145 for a new one. Can anyone recomend something to secure the terminals when connected to the solenoids? I was thinking of tubing but I really don't know.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

I love these posts....


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

CoolAirVw said:


> I love these posts....


Not funny  hehehe  

I found tubing for high temperature but since the metal connector has a secure lock I didn't use anything.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Hello all,

Does anyone know howto test the multi function switch?
I finally turned the car on but it only goes forward at any position. I tried adjusting the switch position but did not work.
Any suggestions? I checked for co.tinuity on the switch terminals but only 2 showed co.tinuity or gave any reading at all in all positions.

Thank you


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

carfreak01 said:


> Does anyone know howto test the multi function switch?


You plug in vag-com, then pull up the data group that shows gear position. Then you move the shifter and observe whether it shows P,N,D,3,2,1.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

I need help!!!!

Car was only moving forward after I assembled and installed back the transmission. after reading a post by CoolAirVw I noticed that I left the manual valve un-hooked.
I removed the pan and valve body, assembled it back together level by level (there are 4 of them) to be able to hook the manual valve, put pan and ATF back again, checked ATF level and erased all DTCs in TCM and ECM.
Now car pulls forward only in D and 4,3 and 2 and also in TIP it pulls forward, as it is supposed to (haven't taken it for a ride yet) the problem is that reverse is not engaged. When I put selector in R car RPMs go up a little as well as in any of the other gears but car doesn't move.
I noticed that when the car is off but ignition switch is open I can hear a clicking sound inside the transmission as if solenoids were opening and closing randomly (this is with engine off but ignition on)
What can the problem be? I read that 4th and reverse are engaged by the manual valve, so if R is forced manually but car doesn't move, does this means that the clutch is not closing? I checked check balls positions and they were OK.

After I cleared all codes and started the car and moved the selector thru all positions I scanned the TCM again and did not find DTCs.
I will take the car tomorrow for a ride to see if all 5 speeds are engaged and will post back.

In the meantime if anyone can help me with this I will appreciate it very much!!!!


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Today I checked ATF pressure at reverse clutch (K2) and it seems to be OK.



I read this thread
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4187298-09A-reverse-gear-suddenly-problem

The problem in this thread was a broken brake band.
I changed the brake band with a new one and haven't taken the car for a ride yet, can this be the problem?
Solenoids are new, harness is OK, ATF level is OK, there is pressure at reverse clutch when R is selected, R is also showing on the dash display (F125 switch OK), the only part left to check is the brake band, could I have not assembled it correctly?
This is so frustrating, I don´t want to take the transmission again.

Please help!


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

I checked ATF pressure for the cylinder that activates the brake band (or at least where I think it should be checked if at all possible) and it does have good pressure.

Here is where I checked


And this is the pressure reading


This is the actual connection


I still hear the clicking sound where the valve body is located, this clicking happens after I turn the engine off but with the ignition on (or at least is when I hear it, maybe because the engine is louder). If I turn off the ignition the clicking stops and after a few minutes if I turn the ignition on again there are no clicking noises. When I was checking for ATF pressures, the needle was not holding steady at one value it was moving up and down (like in a range of around 4 marks) and I was thinking that maybe this clicking noises really are the solenoids opening and closing and maybe this is happening with the engine running and with gear selected and maybe this is why the needle moves up and down. This clicking started after I hooked the manual valve, maybe I did some damage to the wiring. What do you smart people think?

I took the car for a test drive and it drove fine, gears changed from 1st to 5th with no problems in auto and in tip. In 5th however it hesitated a little before it engaged it, but still no reverse.
After a few minutes of driving, all of the sudden the car will not move like it couldn't engage any speed (auto or tip) it was like that for maybe 2 minutes and then it started working again. Drove back home, check for codes and TCM had gear monitoring code and engine torque not detected and it said that maybe the ECU had DTCs stored, check ECU and it had a code for the MAF, I read that a faulty MAF could cause shifting problems, so I'm attributing this to the MAF. I did connected and disconnected MAF several times, maybe I damaged the wires, I have to check it. I erased all codes, turn the car on, move selector thru all gears and check for codes again and found nothing.

Please try to read my 2 previous posts in this thread.

Any help will be appreciated. Thank you.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

I forgot to upload these pictures, they may be of help to someone else.
If manual valve is not hooked, depending on the position it was left, car will not respond to the selector (PRND432)

Unhooked manual valve


Manual valve connected


I used transjel to hold checkballs in their possition.


I only became aware of this manual valve when I read a post by CoolAirVw, thank you.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Update.

My car still has no reverse. Since pressure tests where OK, I removed the tranny and opened it to see if the brake band, which is new.

Brake band is in its place and correctly installed (at least I think it is)


Closer look to the piston that closes the band.


What I did notice is that the brake band is not closing, I say this because prints on the inner side of the band are intact, it's not showing any signs of friction.



So pressure at reverse clutch is OK, pressure at piston that closes the band is OK but band is not closing, I modified the lenght of the piston a little because I did notice that a significant amount of force (by hand, I know it is minimum compared with the hydraulic force of the transmission) has to be applied for the band to stop the drum, which was not the case with the old band.

I will install the transmission again during the week and post


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

Watching this thread and researching leads me to a question: I see in the catalogs that you can buy different thickness pressure plates. (High clutch has 4 sizes 3.00 to 3.06mm thick, and reverse clutch also has 4 size but in a bigger range 3.60 to 4.2mm.)

I assume this is like buying oversized pistons when rebuilding a motor. But how do you know which thickness to order? I guess you need the manual to tell you the total pack thickness (frictions and steels) should be, right?

If you order a set, steels and frictions, are they matched up?

I haven't re-read this entire thread, but if you bought standard thickness frictions and re-used possibly worn steels, that could be a problem I think.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Charlie_M said:


> Watching this thread and researching leads me to a question: I see in the catalogs that you can buy different thickness pressure plates. (High clutch has 4 sizes 3.00 to 3.06mm thick, and reverse clutch also has 4 size but in a bigger range 3.60 to 4.2mm.)
> 
> I assume this is like buying oversized pistons when rebuilding a motor. But how do you know which thickness to order? I guess you need the manual to tell you the total pack thickness (frictions and steels) should be, right?
> 
> ...


You could be on to something with this, but I should at least see slippage....but car is not moving backwards at all. forward gears at all ok...car runs fine and changes are smooth..i do not notice lack of speed that could make me suspect of tranny slipping....but since the brake band is not showing any signs of friction I will address that issue first and see if that fixes this problem.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Hello everybody.

First of all, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all.

I started this year working on my car.
My car still has no reverse.
So far I've changed all 9 solenoids, all frictions, high clutch metals, all rubber bands and seals, brake band, high clutch piston, filtr and atf. I cleaned the VB, change gaskets, replace plastic checkballs (I knstalled them back in the same position).
Car runs fine forward but no reverse, ATF presure at reverse clutch checked out ok as well as presure at piston that activates the brake band. High steady presure on both.
Removed trans again to check brake band condition amd it still has the inner markings and it's not presenting any signs of friction, I compared it with the old brake band and old one doesn't need too much force to stop the drum but new band does, I gave a little more lenght to the piston rod that pushes the brake band and reinstalled transmission, poured ATF until level was reached.
Turn engine on moved selector thru all gears, car's ok on all except reverse, now when R is selected, I can feel car pulling back a little but when accelerating it does not move at all. Disconected battery and transmission to TCM harness to activate limp mode and tried again but it does the same.
I think I should give a little more lenght to the brake band piston.
Can any of the experts give me a little advice?

Thank you.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Anyone can help?
I gave a little more lenght to the brake band piston but still nothing, I checked for atf preasure again at reverse clutch and it is showing enogh preasure.
I know is not an electronic problem because since it is in limp mode, reverse is forced but car is not moving in reverse.
Any help....am I ok to doubt the brake band?....when inspecting the brake band I checked that sprag clutch was turning one way and not to the other and it is working like that.


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

carfreak01 said:


> Anyone can help?


Sorry, I don't have any specific suggestions. But have you seen and followed the assembly instructions in the workshop manual here: http://foor.ee/m6/Mazda6/English/1738-1E-02D.pdf ? (Mazda, but same Jatco transmission). Look especially at the clearance specifications. Also, maybe check the reverse inhibit: supposed to inhibit low and reverse brake over 19 MPH, so no damage if R is selected accidently when moving forward.


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## bjohns86 (Nov 7, 2011)

Carfreak01,

What pressures are you seeing and at which ports? Reduction band or reverse clutch pressure taps? Are you seeing an increase in pressure as you increase the engine speed with your foot on the brake? It is likely not the reduction band if you are seeing all forward gears and no slipping here. If you only have no reverse I would look at the the low/reverse clutch and reverse clutch as these are ONLY used in "R". the manual linked at by Charlie_M is so-so, but it may have the proper reduction servo adjustment procedure inside as you said that you changed this in hopes it would help. It may now be out of "spec" and needs to corrected or you will have issues later due to either slipping or dragging of the band during operation. Tell me what pressures you saw and where and whether you see an increase and we'll go from there. If you need anything else such as the servo adjustment procedure, let me know. 

Also, whenever one inspects the clutch material, even on a used transmission just about to be rebuilt, the builder wants to see the writing on the material as this shows minimal wear and glazing/burning and can even be used as verification for the new clutches. Don't hope to find the writing worn off as this is a bad sign, especially on a fresh rebuild. However, some clutches don't have writing on them at all, even when new, so don't jump to conclusions if it is missing. This all comes with experience so keep up your inquisitive nature and don't get bummed out by this bump in the road, you're almost in the clear! Good Luck!

Brad


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Thank you for your reply.

I measured pressure at reverse clutch and at brake band actuator...for both reading was between 200 and 225psi at idle. When gauge was conected to reverse clutch (K2 on self study programme) gauge was at 0 when selector wasn't on R (as expected), whem selector is on R reading will go up to 225psi at idle.
I took a picture of the gauge while measuring pressure, click on any of the pictures of this thread and it will redirect you to my images on imageshack.com
The markings I was not expecting to see due to friction or at least worn were the ones on the friction material of the brake band, is not showing any signs of friction, either is not closing or is closing but low clutch is not moving thus not creatong friction when brake band is closing. Since it is not an electronic issue I think I will have to remove the tranny again, but I need to know where to look or what to look for.

Thank you for your help I really appreciate it.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Brad,

I don't have the servo adjustment procedures, if you can provide it will be very helpful.

While looing at the link Charlie-M provided I saw ATF going to brake band and to low clutch with the activation of the same valve but with different ports, I realized I haven't checked for atf pressure at low clutch, if it's possible to check it I will, don't know if there's a port to do so.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Hello.....the link provided by Charlie_M shows a servo adjustment procedure:
-tighten piston stem
-loosen stem 5 rotations.

Brad, is this the same procedure you have?
I will do this tonight and see what I find.

I did not checl for clearences when assembling, I will leave this for last since I have to remove the transmission for mw to do this.

Thank you


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## bjohns86 (Nov 7, 2011)

Send me an email at [email protected] and I will send you the PDF. Haven't figured out how to post those here yet.

Brad


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## driopel (Mar 11, 2012)

*Did you ever solve the problem?*



bjohns86 said:


> Send me an email at [email protected] and I will send you the PDF. Haven't figured out how to post those here yet.
> 
> Brad


I hit some road debris and cracked the casing in multiple places. I took the tranny out, took it apart, Got the casing welded, put it back together with new seals. My problem now is that I have no reverse. Seems like a similiar problem to yours. I did not take any pressure measurements anywhere though and have no codes set. I did notice some grinding when I shifted from D to P, this happend twice. When I went to back out of the garage There was no reverse. 

Did you find the problem for the reverse? How did you find it and what was the solution?


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## elgtiloco (Sep 10, 2011)

*try this?*

if u still have issues, remove the valve body and behind it there are 2 O rings .....I bet u a case of whatever u like to drink that u forgot to put it on (u r missing one)


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Hi Everybody, 

I just want to continue with this until it is resolved, maybe the information I post here can be of help to someone else. 
The last issue with the tranny was that it had high pressure on all gears, but it worked fine. I removed the VB to see if the issue was there but everything was OK, then assembled it back and tested for pressure and now it has no pressure on low clutch, I checked the reverse clutch and it has pressure and car pulls back with enough force, so the pump is working properly. I scanned the ECM and TCM but found NO codes. Then I unplugged the TCM to make it go into limp mode so 4th and R were available but still no pressure in the low clutch port. I removed the VB again checked every single valve and solenoid and harnesses but everything was OK, I assembled back and I still have no pressure in the low clutch port and high pressure in the low/reverse clutch port. 
I can assume is not the pressure control valve or the N93 (line pressure) solenoid since there is pressure in R. 
Car moves when in D but I have to accelerate like if it was slipping but gauge needle doesn't move so I'm assuming pressure is way too low. 

The o-rings behind the VB are present, I made sure they were there and in good condition, I placed new ones when rebuilding the tranny. 

I will keep looking into this and post later, if you have any advice I will appreciate if you share them. 

Thank you, 
Jose Luis


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Update:

I scanned again the ECM and TCM before starting to perform any testing and found out that transmission was in limp mode, it showed all solenoid valves with short circuit either to ground or positive but it showed them as intermittent errors so I thought since the battery was unplugged when I plugged it back maybe the TCM detected a few errors and since they are intermittent then maybe those aren't really failures. I erased all codes and turn engine on, with pressure gauge plugged at low clutch port put it in drive and no signs of pressure, put the car in reverse and it pulled back strong.
Then I scanned again the ECM and TCM and found the same errors, all solenoids with short circuit to ground or positive.
It's odd that all solenoid valves are no good, I don't think that all the new solenoids are bad or that the entire harness is bad....maybe the TCM is no good?...and this is why it is in limp mode all the time?...I will have to look for another TCM and test it.

I also found 17748 error which is Camshaft Position Sensor G40/ Engine speed sensor G28 incorrect correlation, but I checked the three speed sensors and they are all OK, I don't know if this can trigger faults in the TCM.

Any thoughts????.....I need advice from the experts....CoolAirVW...Brad????

Thank you,
Jose Luis


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

carfreak01 said:


> Update:
> 
> I scanned again the ECM and TCM before starting to perform any testing and found out that transmission was in limp mode, it showed all solenoid valves with short circuit either to ground or positive but it showed them as intermittent errors so I thought since the battery was unplugged when I plugged it back maybe the TCM detected a few errors and since they are intermittent then maybe those aren't really failures.


Are you using VCDS or a generic scanner? Can you post all the codes? It may be showing "intermittent" because the TCM will *not* keep trying if a short or open is detected. Once it detects an electrical problem, limp mode is triggered and you get only 4th and reverse (and that is mechanical, I believe, based on the linkage position only). In limp mode, all of the gear indicators are in 'reverse video', ie white letters on black backgrounds.



> I erased all codes and turn engine on, with pressure gauge plugged at low clutch port put it in drive and no signs of pressure, put the car in reverse and it pulled back strong.
> Then I scanned again the ECM and TCM and found the same errors, all solenoids with short circuit to ground or positive.
> It's odd that all solenoid valves are no good, I don't think that all the new solenoids are bad or that the entire harness is bad....maybe the TCM is no good?...and this is why it is in limp mode all the time?...I will have to look for another TCM and test it.


Testing another TCM is a good idea, but you first should rule out harness problems and solenoid problems the old fashioned way ... with an ohm meter. And as CoolAirVW likes to point out , ohm testing is not conclusive unless they test bad. If you get all solenoid codes right away, chances are you will find something. Guidelines for ohm testing are in the FAQ, but post back if you have more questions about it. 



> I also found 17748 error which is Camshaft Position Sensor G40/ Engine speed sensor G28 incorrect correlation, but I checked the three speed sensors and they are all OK, I don't know if this can trigger faults in the TCM.
> 
> Any thoughts????.....I need advice from the experts....CoolAirVW...Brad????
> 
> ...


Jose, it seems to me that you have at least *three* separate problems going on that make it harder to diagnose.


 Solenoid codes causing limp mode: this is always electrical AFAIK. Need to find the cause and fix it.
 No forward (but was no reverse earlier, right?) Even in limp mode, you should be able to move forward in 4th. If you can't, and you don't see pressure in the right port, that tells me there may be a mechanical problem with the selector linkage to cause this.
 Your 17748 code is engine related, not related to the tranny. G40 and G28 refer to the cam position sensor and the crank position sensor (60-2 tooth on the crank), both on the motor. The TCM does get an engine speed signal (which is how it finds unexpected slipping), but that sensor is in the tranny. That code in particular could be caused by several different things, and should be fixed, but would not cause your transmission issue.


Hope this helps. I haven't re-read your whole thread, but kudos for sticking it out and posting updates.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Hey Charlie_M thank you for your response.

I'm using VCDS, I don't have the codes at hand right now but I will get them later and post them.
The indicators on the dash are not in "reverse video" but transmission is acting as it was in limp mode. Car will move forward is in D but I have to accelerate it otherwise it will not move but even when starting to move forwards, gauge plugged at low clutch port will not show any pressure. If cars needs higher RPMs to move when in D then it might be because is in a higher gear, maybe 4th? but when in R it pulls back strong. Gauge when in R port it shows high pressure even at idle. Based on this two situations, I think TCM is in limp mode.
The no reverse issue I found at the beggining was that I left the manual valve unhooked and the piston for multidisc brake B2 (I think it was B2) unaligned, once I fixed those issues, R became available and forward gears were available and TCM was not showing error codes but pressure at low clutch port and R port was higher than it should be when at idle, so I dissasembled the VB to ensure that I had left everything correct but when I assembled it back and installed it back in the transmission I encountered this "no pressure at low clutch port", after that, I removed again the VB and checked valve by valve and all of them were assembled correctly, I also ohm checked all nine solenoids and they checked out OK, I also checked harnesses and they were OK, I put everything back together but still no pressure on low clutch port. This is when I checked for codes and found all solenoids with intermittent errors, I erased them and test again but no change, checked for codes again and found all nine solenoids again with intermittent errors.
I will try to ohm check the solenoids with them inside the tranny, maybe from the harness of the TCM if they check out OK I will look for another TCM and try that.

Thank you,
Jose Luis


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Update:

I ohm-checked the solenoids but from the TCM end of the harness, so I will see what the TCM is seeing, this is what I found:

N88 --> 8ohms (Spec: 9-24ohms)
N89 --> 8ohms (Spec: 9-24ohms)
N92 --> 20ohms (Spec: 9-24ohms)
N90 --> 20ohms (Spec: 9-24ohms)
N282 --> 19ohms (Spec: 1-5ohms) NO GOOD
N281 --> 20ohms (Spec: 9-24ohms)
N283 --> 16ohms (Spec: 9-24ohms)
N91 --> 19ohms (Spec: 9-24ohms)
N93 --> 19ohms (Spec: 1-5ohms) NO GOOD
G182 Speed Sensor --> 556ohms (Spec: 400-600ohms)
G265 Speed Sensor --> 556ohms (Spec: 400-600ohms)
G68 Speed Sensor --> 569ohms (Spec: 400-600ohms)

I think that TCM is OK, I think that my next step should be to remove the transmission's oil pan (for the "n"th time) and unplug the solenoids and measure them individually, at least N282 and N93.
Also I will check the internal solenoid harness.

With G68 measuring correctly, I think the error code 17748 is due to camshaft position sensor, I will check G28.

Any input will be very much appreciated.

Jose Luis


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Please disregard my previous post.

The readings I took from the TCM end of the harness I took them with the ground of the harness not the ground comming from the VB. Also, what I posted as specs for N282 and N283 are incorrect.
Check coolvdub's post for correct resistance of solenoids for 09A.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3469274-09A-Tiptronic-Solenoid-Location-Function

I removed all the solenoids and ohm checked them one by one and they all checked out OK. I removed from the transmission the solenoid harness and check it for continuity and it is OK too.

I also check continuity from the end where the solenoid harness plugs in and the TCM end of the harness and there is no interruption in any of the 10 pins (see pictures below).

None of the wirings show a significant resistance that could make the TCM look at a different value

TCM end of harness


End where the solenoid harness plugs into


Could it be the TCM is no longer good? I think that my next step is to find known good TCM and try it.

Any input will be very much appreciated.

Jose Luis


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Update:

So after measuring and re-measuring, I found a slight difference between the old N93 and the new N93 solenoid.
When I measured N93 between tab (tab = tip where harness connects to) and ground, it gave me the expected resistance, but then I tried measuring between tab and the body of the solenoid and it gave me a reading I tried again and got nothing and then again and it gave me a reading.
Luckly I kept the old solenoids and check N93 and it gave me the expected reading between tab and ground terminal but it did not gave me any reading between tab and solenoid body.
Is this a case of short circuit? (see pictures below)

New N93, measuring between ground and tab.


New N93, measuring between tab and solenoid body.


Old N93, measuring between ground and tab.


Old N93, measuring between tab and solenoid body.


I really don't want to assemble again and find that TCM still shows error codes, by the way, I connected the solenoid harness again to all solenoids and TCM showed no error codes. But I think I have to turn the engine on and run selector through all gears so it can show codes in case it has failures, since oil pan is down I didn't do it. I want to make sure about this N93 issue first.

Any input will be very much appreciated.
Jose Luis


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

Since I normally recommend folks to NOT rebuild their own trans I normally dont post much to threads asking questions about internal rebuilding. 

But I did notice you said, " have codes for all solenoids". This would normally mean the common wire or fuse that powers all the solenoids is broken (or unplugged?).

I love threads like these.


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

CoolAirVw said:


> But I did notice you said, " have codes for all solenoids". This would normally mean the common wire or fuse that powers all the solenoids is broken (or unplugged?).


Good point! And it falls in exactly with the OP saying (well, OK implying) he got different readings of solenoid resistance when checking via grounds on the harness versis via grounds on the valve body.

Jose, if you get different readings with different grounds, then you have a grouding problem. 

And when checking the individual, lose, solenoid resistances, always go between the positive terminal and the grounding wire if present. If the wire is not there the solenoid body is used as the ground. The wire is used on a few solenoids that are rubber mounted, since the rubber insulate the body from ground.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Update:
I checked for continuity between TCM end of harness and connector where the solenoid harness plugs into and found no interruptions, I checked the solenoid harness for continuity and found no interruptions, I disconnected all 9 solenoids and left the ground terminal of the harness hooked to the VB and checked at the TCM end of the harness for short circuit to ground between ground and each one of the solenoid pins and everything is OK. I plugged all solenoids, poured ATF, scanned TCM, turned engine on and run selector through all gears but still no pressure at low clutch. Car behaves as if TCM was in limp but I scanned TCM again for codes but found nothing.
One odd thing I found is that with ignition on but engine off, Incan hear clicking noise inside the VB case if solenoids where randomly opening and closing really fast, this stops after a minute or so, when I heard this I scanned again the TCM but found no codes.

I checked all fuses and found only the lighter fuse to be blown, I replaced it but made no difference as expected, the only difference is that the lighter now works hehehe.

Also, before I installed the oil pan, with the solenoids plugged, I connected the battery and with ignition on I scanned the TCM and found no errors but when I was installing the oil pan I noticed the solenoids where hot, is this normal? Or this is an indicative that there actually IS a short to ground somewhere?

I am cluless now, after I hooked the manual valve of the VB and aligned the piston of the multi disc brake B2 transmission worked fine, the only issue was that it was showing higher pressure than it should be when at idle. This is when I removed the VB to check for correct assembly and after installing it back the problem with no pressure at low clutch started.
I will double check for short circuits and see what I find.

Any input will be very much appreciated.

Thank you,
Jose


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Update:

I checked the solenoid's resistance from TCM harness again but now instead of having the new N93 I used the old N93 and now all readings are within the expected values when measuring from harness ground and from VB ground terminal. So far the electronics appear to be OK, and TCM seems to agree with that since there are no errors stored in it, and ECM is showing only the O2 sensors failure.

There's a fuse that is stained with some sort of oxyde, like if it was corroded, but it's for the fans. On the left side of the radiator, the wires are covered with dry coolant (white and purple kind of crust) it is an old leak that I have already fixed, I will dissasemble that section to see if I find anything.

I checked all leads at TCM connector and all three have 12V, (I already had looked at all the fuses but just wanted to make sure). Nothing seems to be out of place at wiring.

I'm going to remove for the Nth time the VB to check assembly again, not valve assembly but position on the case and maybe I will replace the solenoid harness since all plastic tabs are broken.

Any input and help on this issue will be very much appreciated.

Jose Luis


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Update:

I checked for shorts to ground on the harnesses but found nothing. The only thing I found was a ground point with the nut loose and it was a little corroded, I think because of the bad connection it had. This was below the battery tray, I disconnected the 3 ground points that are there and cleaned them, tighten them but no changes on transmission behavior. Still no error codes so transmissionnis not in limp mode, but solenoids keep clicking for a few seconds after I have turned off the engine but kept the ignition switch on.
Since all these issues started when removing and putting back the VB I'm going to concentrate on that spot, everything else is OK, no shorts, no blown fuses, TCM gets voltage, no weird readings of solenoid resistance when taken from different ground points. I'm going to change the solenoid harness, I know is ok, it doesn't loose continuity when you move the wires and wires don't present more resistance to make the TCM look at a different value of solenoid resistance, but all tabs are broken.
I will continue with my search and post what I find.

Any help will be very much appreciated.

Jose


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Update:

I'm still having the no pressure at low clutch port issue. The last thing I did is that I removed the valve body and check all valves again for correct assembly and they are correctly assembled. I checked the condition of the 2 round gaskets behind the VB on the transmission case and they are OK. I assemble the VB back using new lower and upper gaskets and I replaced the solenoid harness. Still no changes on transmission behavior. No codes stored in TCM or ECU but transmission still behaves as it was in limp mode. I performed the TCM reset but no changes.
Since transmission was functioning OK I assume is not an internal issue.
So now I'm assuming the TCM is no longer good, so in order to test this I used a really high tech device (see pictures below) which I plugged to the back of the TCM harness at the N88, N92 and N89 solenoid wires to see if it was sending voltage to the these solenoids.
These three solenoids are supposed to be activated when in 1st in auto mode.
With engine on, all sensors and modules connected, no error codes on TCM or ECU, gear selector in "D" and high tech device plugged to the back of the TCM, I got these readings:

N88 --> No resistance shown as if it was not connected but voltage was at 13V. With engine OFF 
resistance is 18ohms.
N89 --> No resistance shown as if it was not connected but voltage was at 13V. With engine OFF 
resistance is 18ohms.
N92 --> No voltage shown and 18ohms of resistance with engine ON and OFF

I should see voltage on these three wires, shouldn't I?

High Tech Device:


Closer look to high tech device connection


Any input will be very much appreciated.
Jose Walters


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Hello all,
Update: I took the TCM to a TCM repair shop and they said it was not working, they quoted too high to repair it so I bought a used one. Installed it and clear all codes in all controllers. But made no change, I'm still having the "no pressure at low clutch and highest pressure in reverse clutch"
I moved the gear selector through all gears and check for codes again but found nothing. I'm still hearing the solenoids randomly clicking with the engine off but ignition on, does this means there's a short somewhere? if it does why are all fuses OK and no codes are showing?

I can discard an internal problem because transmission was working OK, this started when I removed the VB to check for slight high presure and then assembled it back. I have checked the VB more than twice after this issue and everything is in its place.

I really need some help with this. I have checked the TCM harness for short circuit but everything is OK, I think I will check all wire of the car in search of a short circuit.

Any help with this will be very much appreciated.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Update:
I checked the entire TCM harness and I didn´t find shortages....there are no shorts between wires of the TCM and there are no shorts between ground and wire leads of the TCM, readings at the TCM connector for all solenoids and sensors are correct.
I found the brake light switch in bad condition, it is a 4 pin switch but it´s stuck closed, it does´t matter if brake pedal is depressed or not, there is always continuity between terminals. This failure didn´t show up in the TCM, ECM or ABS modules, I changed the switch for a new one but transmission is still showing no pressure at low clutch.
I cleaned two ground points located in the plenum chamber but still no difference. I can still hear the solenoids opening and closing randomly with ignition on but engine off but now is slower.

One of the inputs for the TCM is sensor F189, which is the tiptronic switch, does anyone knows how to test if this is in good condition?....I can read a bit more than 500ohms between terminal 3 of multifuntion switch and ground but I see it is because is connected to F189 which it has resistors between ground and lead which makes this 500ohms but I really could´t tell if it´s correct.

Thanks in advance for any input you may provide.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

carfreak01 said:


> One of the inputs for the TCM is sensor F189, which is the tiptronic switch, does anyone knows how to test if this is in good condition?....


You plug in vag-com and go to measuring blocks and look at the measuring block associated with the tip switch. You can see the switch change state as you move it to the tip position then you can see the individual switches change state as you move it to "+" or "-".

This cannot cause your problem though.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Thank you for your reply.

I was also thinking that F189 couldn't cause this "no pressure at low clutch" issue. I'm just curious to find out if that 500+ ohms reading between terminal 3 of F125 and ground is correct, this because if I unplug F189, there is no connection between ground and terminal 3 of F125, I know there are resistors in the circuit board of F189 and that can be causing the reading of 500+ ohms, since I don't have the schematics for that sensor I just want to make sure it is correct, brake light switch was not good but there were no DTCs stored for that, just making sure F189 is OK too.
I'm just making sure that everything that can make the TCM malfunction is in good condition.

Thank you,
José Luis


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

Have you considered that maybe your in the wrong tap when your testing for your pressure?

Or have you tried air checking the servo to see if the band will apply? (sorry I didn't re-read through the whole thread to see if you've done this)

One solenoid can stick and cause no reverse. I assume also, I think I remember reading, that you've replaced the solenoids. But maybe the valve that the solenoid acts on is stuck.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

I have considered the wrong tap, but I made sure it was on the correct tap.

Transmission was working fine just with a slight high pressure, so I removed the VB to see if everything was correct, then installed it back and the "no pressure at low clutch" issue started.

Band does apply since reverse can be engaged and highest pressure is applied, and also if I increase RPMs when in D car will move forward but only at high RPMs, it behaves as it was in limp mode but TCM is not showing any errors and "PRND432" display is not showing differently (as when in limp mode) but if I on purpose disconnect something to make it go into limp mode, then TCM will show DTCs and "PRND432" display will light up differently.
This is why I assume there is nothing wrong internally with the transmission, I believe is electronic related.
I attached a wire to the back of the TCM connector to see if N88, N89 and N92 were being activated by the TCM and one of them was not, I took the TCM to a repair shop and they told me TCM was not working but quoted too high to repair it, I bought a used one but there's no change. The only change I notice is that with the old TCM (original) solenoids stopped clicking randomly when ignition was on and engine off, now with the "new" TCM random clicking is back again but after I cleaned two ground points and change the brake light switch these clickings are less and slower.
I don't want to ruin the TCM again.

Thank you for your help
Jose Luis


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

I forgot to tell you that yes, I did change the solenoids.
I change them all, but TCM detected a short circuit and new N93 was giving me a reading that old N93 wasn't, reading between lead and "O" terminal of the solenoid was OK on both solenoids, but when reading between lead and solenoid body new N93 was showing continuity but old N93 wasn't, I assumed that new N93 was no good and I reinstalled old N93....at the end I have 8 new solenoids and 1 old (N93).

Maybe old N93 is stuck and this is why I'm not seeing pressure at low clutch and it is why I don't see DTCs stored in TCM?
But then why N92 is not being activated by the TCM when D is selected?


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Can anyone tell if 500+ ohms between terminal 3 of Multi-function switch wire harness terminal of 09A 5sp transmission and ground is correct? This is with the ingnition off. When I turn the ignition on (engine off) resistance between those two terminals drops to 57 ohms. I know there are many resistors that may be somehow connected, but I just don't know if that reading is correct. I cannot find anything on the manual that tells me if that is a reading I should be expecting.

I just finished checking all relays, fuses, ground points and I haven't find anything wrong.

Thank you all for any help you may provide.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Hello all, 

I'm still having the "no pressure at low clutch port" issue. This issue started when I removed the valve body to see if I had left something wrong due to a slight high pressure and installed it back. Before this movement, transmission was working OK, all 5 gears kicked in when I test drove it after the rebuilt I performed to it, and after three corrections on assembly, reverse became available too. 
The weird issues I found after the "no pressure at low clutch" started were: 
-Solenoid N93 giving a reading between lead and solenoid body. I changed it for the old one. 
-Brake light switch was always closed on both internal switches. 
-Ground points dirty and one of them a little loose. 

I corrected all these issues. 

With TCM connected and engine running and no DTCs stored in TCM and ECM, I meassured N88, N89 and N92 which are the responsables for gear shifting and one of them was not recieving voltage. I took TCM to a repair shop and they said it needed repair, I bought a used one, installed it back, deleted al errors shown but still no changes in transmission behavior. 
Today, with the recently bought TCM, I meassured again N88, N89 and N92 and they are receiving 13+ volts, I also checked N93 and it is receiving voltage, when in D, voltage is at 1+ volts and when in P with engine off, voltage is at 4+ volts, since is a modulation valve, I assume is correct. 

So no DTCs, no limp mode activated (per TCM and "PRND432" display), resistance for solenoids, speed sensors and temperature sensor are all within their specified value (measured at T68a TCM connector), no shortages in all wire harnesses (engine bay, transmission, instrument panel) all fuses OK, all relays working properly and pressure gauge connected to the correct tab and still I cannot see pressure at low clutch. 
I performed the electrical testing shown in the manual and all checked out OK. 

I haven't performed basic settings to the recently bought TCM (used), could this make the transmission behave as it was in limp mode even when electronically is not? 

I checked for voltage at F125 connector between terminal 3 and 6 and it is receiving 12+ volts, so my theory of having something wrong there went down the drain. 

By the way, pressure gauge is working, I plugged it to the reverse clutch tab and it showed high pressure, very high as when in limp mode. 

Any help on this will be very much appreciated


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

I just noticed something.....I unplugged the transmission harness (T20b) to make it go into limp mode and turned the engine on, I moved selector to R and car moved backwards, then I moved selector to D and car moved forwards but pressure gauge connected at low clutch tab didn't move, maybe because when in limp mode, 1st, 2nd and 3rd aren't available. 

With transmission connected (not in limp mode) R is available and when in D car moves forward only at high RPMs, but with transmission unplugged (in limp mode) R is available and when in D car moves forward without having to accelerate. In both scenarios, pressure gauge at low clutch tab does not show pressure at all. 
Transmission behaves as it is supposed to when in limp mode, but when not in limp mode, transmission acts as it was in limp mode but when in D car will not move. 

When in limp mode, does ATF pressure by-passes N93 to apply to R and high clutch? if it does, then maybe my issue is that the old N93 is stuck, but if it doesn't then my issue is different. 

thank you for any input you may provide.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

So in order to see if N93 was stuck or not I unplugged the TCM and fed 12 volts between terminal 1 (GND) and terminal 66 (N93) and I could hear the solenoid click, so pressure control solenoid (N93) is in the specified value of resistance and it opens and closes, so that is not the culprit I believe. 

I kept doing this for all nine solenoids and found out that some of them were not clicking when I fed 12 volts to them. I still have the old solenoids so I did the same with the old solenoids and obtained the exact same results. 

N283 click 
N282 No click 
N281 No click 
N93 Click 
N92 No Click 
N91 Click 
N90 No Click 
N89 No Click 
N88 No Click 

I dissasembled one solenoid that clicked and found there's a spring in it, and one of the solenoids that didn't click and didn't find anything that can make it click, so is it correct that 6 out of 9 solenoids didn't click? 
I still think that my problem is electronic related, but I cannot find out what's wrong. 

Any help you may provide will be very much appreciated.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

If the pintle is in one position and you energize it, then it will click to the other position. If the solenoid is allready in the "clicked" position, then you wont hear a click. You almost cant do this check without pushing the pintle back mechanically or with hydraulic pressure or air pressure or something. 

Have you verified you put the wires on the correct solenoids?


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

carfreak01 said:


> I just noticed something.....I unplugged the transmission harness (T20b) to make it go into limp mode and turned the engine on, I moved selector to R and car moved backwards, then I moved selector to D and car moved forwards but pressure gauge connected at low clutch tab didn't move, maybe because when in limp mode, 1st, 2nd and 3rd aren't available.


 
Is this just a comment? Of course if your in failsafe your not gonna have pressure at 1st, 2nd and 3rd. IIRC trans takes off in 4th on this trans when in failsafe. 




carfreak01 said:


> With transmission connected (not in limp mode) R is available and when in D car moves forward only at high RPMs, but with transmission unplugged (in limp mode) R is available and when in D car moves forward without having to accelerate. In both scenarios, pressure gauge at low clutch tab does not show pressure at all. Transmission behaves as it is supposed to when in limp mode, but when not in limp mode, transmission acts as it was in limp mode but when in D car will not move.


 This paragraph makes no sense to me. I thought your problem was no reverse? 



carfreak01 said:


> When in limp mode, does ATF pressure by-passes N93 to apply to R and high clutch? if it does, then maybe my issue is that the old N93 is stuck, but if it doesn't then my issue is different.


 
There is no way to know this as oil schematics are not available for 09A Vw trans. You might look at the mazda stuff and maybe you could get an answer but VW and mazda VB are significantly different. 

EDIT: I dont know why you said n93 there but n90 is the solenoid that inhibits reverse not n93.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

also... have you attempted to drive forward? Meaning with the car assembled... not with the TCM disconnected or anything else? (sorry I dont have time to "re-read" to see if you did this. 

You might gain some valuable peice of info if there was a missing gear or something.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

CoolAirVw said:


> Have you verified you put the wires on the correct solenoids?


 I'm sure I connected the wires on the correct solenoids, I checked the manual for the JF506E and the pictures I took before removing the valve body for the first time, so I'm sure they are correctly connected. 

Thank you for the info on why some of the solenoids don't click when energized.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

CoolAirVw said:


> This paragraph makes no sense to me. I thought your problem was no reverse?


 My problem used to be no reverse, this issue was due to incorrect assembly: piston for multidisc brake B2 was not aligned, manual valve on the VB was not hooked and brake band servo was not properly adjusted. I fixed these 3 issues and reverse became available. 
My issue now is no pressure at low clutch tab, this issue started when I removed the VB because I wanted to check why I was having slight high pressure at idle at low clutch and reverse tabs, the entire VB was assembled correctly so I put it back together and installed it back and when I checked low clutch tab for pressure, gauge didn't show anything and car wouldn't move forward unless it was accelerated at around 2K RPMs but is very very slow, I checked for pressure at reverse tab and gauge showed high pressure at idle and car would move backwards. 
I checked all wire harnesses, inside the transmission, in the engine bay, in the plenum chamber, in the instrument panel, I even removed the dashboard to check all the wires and grounds. 
I found dirty ground points and 1 of them loose, a brake light switch closed at all times (both internal switches) and solenoid N93 having continuity between ground terminal and solenoid body which old solenoid does not have. 
I corrected all these issues, I replaced new N93 with the old N93. But transmission was still not showing pressure at low clutch tab. Then I checked TCM to see if it was energizing N88, N89 and N92 and one of them was not being energized when in D, a repair shop quoted too high to repair the TCM, I bought a used one, installed it but still no pressure at low clutch tab, I checked TCM to see if it was energizing N88, N89, N92 and N93 and this TCM is energizing them. This is when I disconnected the TCM to make the car go into limp mode and car started moving forward when at idle, and moved backwards when in R, so something is inhibiting the TCM to correctly comand the solenoids???...am I correct? 

All fuses, relays, wires, sensors and solenoids are OK. TCM is not showing any DTCs but still cannot see pressure at low clutch. 

Any input you may provide will be very much appreciated.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

CoolAirVw said:


> Is this just a comment? Of course if your in failsafe your not gonna have pressure at 1st, 2nd and 3rd. IIRC trans takes off in 4th on this trans when in failsafe.


 I made this comment because transmission acts as it was in limp mode but "PRND432" display lights up correctly and there are no DTCs stored in the TCM or ECM or ABS modules. The difference I noticed when I dissconnected the transmission is that car can move forward when in D without having to accelerate it. 
When not in limp mode, I cannot see pressure at low clutch and car will move forward only when accelerated. 
R is always available and pressure is always high.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

CoolAirVw said:


> EDIT: I dont know why you said n93 there but n90 is the solenoid that inhibits reverse not n93.


 No reverse is no longer my issue, my current issue is no pressure at low clutch tab


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

CoolAirVw said:


> also... have you attempted to drive forward? Meaning with the car assembled... not with the TCM disconnected or anything else? (sorry I dont have time to "re-read" to see if you did this.
> 
> You might gain some valuable peice of info if there was a missing gear or something.


 I drove the car when I solved the no R issue, all gears kicked in, the only issue was slight high pressure when at idle


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

carfreak01 said:


> My problem used to be no reverse, this issue was due to incorrect assembly: piston for multidisc brake B2 was not aligned, manual valve on the VB was not hooked and brake band servo was not properly adjusted. I fixed these 3 issues and reverse became available.
> My issue now is no pressure at low clutch tab, this issue started when I removed the VB .


 I love this thread.. 

Its very unusual that your indicator is "backlit" yet you have no codes. But if your indicator is backlit you will have to solve that before you go any further. What does vag-com say about gear position? Does it show park when your in park and reverse when your in reverse ect?


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

CoolAirVw said:


> I love this thread..
> 
> Its very unusual that your indicator is "backlit" yet you have no codes. But if your indicator is backlit you will have to solve that before you go any further. What does vag-com say about gear position? Does it show park when your in park and reverse when your in reverse ect?


 The gear indicator is not "backlit" and TCM have no codes, but transmission behaves as it was in limp mode. No blown fuses, no shorts to ground on all wires, no shorts between lead wires, all solenoids and sensors are within specifications, all relays OK, but still high pressure at idle when in R and no pressure at low clutch tab, but at high RPMs (around 2K) car will move forward very slow, as it was very heavy. 

When on purpose I create a failure (for instance, disconnect the transmission) TCM will go into limp mode, indicator will be "backlit", I get high pressure at idle when in R and car will move forward at idle when in D, but no pressure at low clutch tab, which is normal for limp mode. 

Differences between limp mode vs no limp mode is that car can move forward when in D at idle speed, when not in limp mode, car can only move forward when D when is at high RPMs and car feels very heavy and low clutch tab shows no pressure (limp mode behavior except for the need of high RPMs to move forward). 

F125 is OK, vag com detects gear changes, as well as the indicator, if I on purpose disconnect F125 TCM will detect the error and it will show in vag com as F125 Condition unknown


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

I have finished with this rebuild.

Problem for no pressure at low clutch tab was that the shift valve A was stuck.
I removed it, sanded the edges of the valve, cleaned it and reinstalled it and now I'm getting pressure at low clutch tab.

Now transmission is working as it should.

Thank you all who helped me with this, hope this post will help other people.


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## 03GLSturbo (Feb 14, 2011)

*I think this may answer my current issue....*



carfreak01 said:


> If manual valve is not hooked, depending on the position it was left, car will not respond to the selector (PRND432)
> 
> I only became aware of this manual valve when I read a post by CoolAirVw, thank you.


upon re-installation of a valve body, if the manual valve was not connected, you would essentially have no forward or reverse gears because moving the shift selector is doing nothing more than having the computer turning solenoids on and off..... Right?


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

03GLSturbo said:


> upon re-installation of a valve body, if the manual valve was not connected, you would essentially have no forward or reverse gears because moving the shift selector is doing nothing more than having the computer turning solenoids on and off..... Right?


You might have one speed depending on the position the manual valve was left when valve body was installed. Your logic is correct, TCM will command a speed but ATF will not follow the correct passages of the valve body because the manual valve will be blockig or redirecting ATF to a different path.
In my case I had only forward gears because that's how I had left the manual valve.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

carfreak01 said:


> I have finished with this rebuild.
> 
> Problem for no pressure at low clutch tab was that the shift valve A was stuck.
> I removed it, sanded the edges of the valve, cleaned it and reinstalled it and now I'm getting pressure at low clutch tab.
> ...


 I'm glad you got it fixed! Nice job... 


nailed


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

CoolAirVw said:


> I'm glad you got it fixed! Nice job...
> 
> 
> nailed


 Yeah, finally...hahaha. 

I didn't noticed it at first because valve moved a little when I was inspecting all valves...at the end I decided to make all valves move the entire lenght and then is when I notices the issue. 

Thanks for all the help


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## 03GLSturbo (Feb 14, 2011)

*One down, one to go*



carfreak01 said:


> You might have one speed depending on the position the manual valve was left when valve body was installed. Your logic is correct, TCM will command a speed but ATF will not follow the correct passages of the valve body because the manual valve will be blockig or redirecting ATF to a different path.
> In my case I had only forward gears because that's how I had left the manual valve.



I removed the valve body again and tested as you suggested. the valve end disappears from view when shifted above 2nd and reappears when shifted back into 2nd. 

But I now have another issue. After getting everything back together the display on the dash is not seeing the change from Reverse to Neutral and will not engage reverse at all. I do get forward gears once I select 4th, which shows as Drive on the display. Did I miss something else? or could the issue be the selector switch that sits on top of the trans?


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

03GLSturbo said:


> I removed the valve body again and tested as you suggested. the valve end disappears from view when shifted above 2nd and reappears when shifted back into 2nd.
> 
> But I now have another issue. After getting everything back together the display on the dash is not seeing the change from Reverse to Neutral and will not engage reverse at all. I do get forward gears once I select 4th, which shows as Drive on the display. Did I miss something else? or could the issue be the selector switch that sits on top of the trans?


Did you plugged back the multifunction switch? (black switch on top of the transmission)

Is the selector display backlit? When in limp mode, R and 4th are available through the manual valve, but is odd that in your case R is not available.

Unplug the transmission (round connector on the side of valve body case) and turn engine on and try to select R. If R is not engaged then there is something wrong with the assembly.
What work did you perform on the tranny? what were the original symptoms?


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## 03GLSturbo (Feb 14, 2011)

carfreak01 said:


> Did you plugged back the multifunction switch? (black switch on top of the transmission)
> 
> Is the selector display backlit? When in limp mode, R and 4th are available through the manual valve, but is odd that in your case R is not available.
> 
> ...


OK let me start from the beginning....I purchased a solenoid set. Lost the stud that holds n92 back into the valve body and had to pull the valve body. I reassembled everything and missed connecting the manual valve in the valve body to the selecting level. I disassembled and reassembled everything making sure that the manual valve and the selecting level are connected. Selector display looks completely normal other than when I shift down from reverse to neutral it doesn't see the difference. And reverse never engages, however I get forward gears when I shift down to 4th, and the display on the dash thinks I'm in drive I get forward gears.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

03GLSturbo said:


> OK let me start from the beginning....I purchased a solenoid set. Lost the stud that holds n92 back into the valve body and had to pull the valve body. I reassembled everything and missed connecting the manual valve in the valve body to the selecting level. I disassembled and reassembled everything making sure that the manual valve and the selecting level are connected. Selector display looks completely normal other than when I shift down from reverse to neutral it doesn't see the difference. And reverse never engages, however I get forward gears when I shift down to 4th, and the display on the dash thinks I'm in drive I get forward gears.


Do you have vag com?....maybe you should scan the TCM and see if vag com can detect the multifunction switch.

Did you open the valve body? or did you just remove it from the case to be able to push the screw back in?

But first, did you align the multifunction switch when assembling back? The switch has a mark near the hole where the selector shaft is inserted, that mark is neutral, put the selector in neutral and then match the markings and then tighten the bolts. After this is done you can hook the cable to the multifunction switch.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

03GLSturbo said:


> Lost the stud that holds n92 back into the valve body and had to pull the valve body.


Usually a strong magnet pulls that out.


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## 03GLSturbo (Feb 14, 2011)

carfreak01 said:


> Do you have vag com?....maybe you should scan the TCM and see if vag com can detect the multifunction switch.
> 
> Did you open the valve body? or did you just remove it from the case to be able to push the screw back in?
> 
> But first, did you align the multifunction switch when assembling back? The switch has a mark near the hole where the selector shaft is inserted, that mark is neutral, put the selector in neutral and then match the markings and then tighten the bolts. After this is done you can hook the cable to the multifunction switch.


I do not have a vag com. I did not open the valve body I only removed it form the trans and reinstalled it. 

I did resolve the display showing the incorrect gear....the end of the shifter cable has a piece that adjusts and it apparently got push out of wack, so after readjusting it everything is displaying correctly and everything is selecting correctly.....however I still do not have reverse....

There is a CEL on and have not had the code read but I'm stumped as to why I do not have reverse. However, I have a hunch....There are two wires that attached to the valve body (one from the main wiring harness and one form a solenoid) , I'm assuming, are ground wires. I don't think they were grounded to the same bolt but when reassembling everything I grounded them together... I can't see that causing this issue....but maybe..... anyone have any idea why I would not have reverse?


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

03GLSturbo said:


> I do not have a vag com. I did not open the valve body I only removed it form the trans and reinstalled it.
> 
> I did resolve the display showing the incorrect gear....the end of the shifter cable has a piece that adjusts and it apparently got push out of wack, so after readjusting it everything is displaying correctly and everything is selecting correctly.....however I still do not have reverse....
> 
> There is a CEL on and have not had the code read but I'm stumped as to why I do not have reverse. However, I have a hunch....There are two wires that attached to the valve body (one from the main wiring harness and one form a solenoid) , I'm assuming, are ground wires. I don't think they were grounded to the same bolt but when reassembling everything I grounded them together... I can't see that causing this issue....but maybe..... anyone have any idea why I would not have reverse?


If grounds are loose that could be a problem but if they are tight then that shouldn't be an issue.
If you disconnect the transmission to make it go into limp mode you should be able to engange reverse (i dont remember if you tried this already) but if you try it and can't engage R then there's something wrong in the valve body. There are two seals behind the VB and one of them is for the oil supply for R, where those correctly positioned?....it would help a pressure gauge so you can see if you are gettin pressure at R tap


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## 03GLSturbo (Feb 14, 2011)

carfreak01 said:


> If grounds are loose that could be a problem but if they are tight then that shouldn't be an issue.
> If you disconnect the transmission to make it go into limp mode you should be able to engange reverse (i dont remember if you tried this already) but if you try it and can't engage R then there's something wrong in the valve body. There are two seals behind the VB and one of them is for the oil supply for R, where those correctly positioned?....it would help a pressure gauge so you can see if you are gettin pressure at R tap


The grounds are tight... How do I force the trans into limp mode? Disconnect the electrical connector on the side? Seals? are you referring to the gaskets between the valve body and the pump? or is there an actual ring seal? Where is the R tap on the trans?


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

03GLSturbo said:


> I don't think they were grounded to the same bolt but when reassembling everything I grounded them together... I can't see that causing this issue....but maybe..... anyone have any idea why I would not have reverse?


In my car, they were originally attached as follow:

Ground wire from solenoid wire harness --> N90 silver bolt
Ground wire for N93 solenoid --> N91 bolt


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## 03GLSturbo (Feb 14, 2011)

carfreak01 said:


> In my car, they were originally attached as follow:
> 
> Ground wire from solenoid wire harness --> N90 silver bolt
> Ground wire for N93 solenoid --> N91 bolt


Do you think having them grounded together would cause N90 to stick?


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

03GLSturbo said:


> Do you think having them grounded together would cause N90 to stick?


No, a poor connection to ground will cause an electrical malfunction and could trigger a code in the TCM.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

03GLSturbo said:


> The grounds are tight... How do I force the trans into limp mode? Disconnect the electrical connector on the side? Seals? are you referring to the gaskets between the valve body and the pump? or is there an actual ring seal? Where is the R tap on the trans?


Disconnect the round electrical connector that is on the side of the valve body case. This way the transmission will only be working with the manual valve, R and 4th can be selected this way. If you cannot select R with the transmission unplugged then you left something wrong when you put back the VB.
On the valve body case (where the VB sits) there two round seals, one of those ports goes to R


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## 03GLSturbo (Feb 14, 2011)

carfreak01 said:


> Disconnect the round electrical connector that is on the side of the valve body case. This way the transmission will only be working with the manual valve, R and 4th can be selected this way. If you cannot select R with the transmission unplugged then you left something wrong when you put back the VB.
> On the valve body case (where the VB sits) there two round seals, one of those ports goes to R


Ok.....so no reverse even in limp mode with the round connector removed. Are these round seals separate from the flat seal on the back of the valve body? are they o-ring seals? Could it possibly just be a bad solenoid even though its new?


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

03GLSturbo said:


> Ok.....so no reverse even in limp mode with the round connector removed. Are these round seals separate from the flat seal on the back of the valve body? are they o-ring seals? Could it possibly just be a bad solenoid even though its new?


No, at this point it cannot be a solenoid. Something is wrong in the valve body, you have to remove the oil pan and check the valve body.
Do you have forward gears? If you put it in neutral or park or any other speed other than R does it do what is supposed to be doing?
I suggest you remove the VB and double check everything, if everything is OK then you can move on to something different.
Make sure gaskets and seals are properly positioned.
The seals that are behind the valve body (on the valve body case) are two, they are small and round.


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## glbikefixer (Dec 6, 2007)

*gnz*

somebody have pics of how change ATF on auto trans for 04/05 Jetta gli 1.8t mk4 with tiptronic?
any help will be appreciated.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

glbikefixer said:


> somebody have pics of how change ATF on auto trans for 04/05 Jetta gli 1.8t mk4 with tiptronic?
> any help will be appreciated.


For 09A ATF fill/refill check this thread:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3748902-DIY-Drain-Refill-on-09A-Tiptronic-Transmission


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## glbikefixer (Dec 6, 2007)

*gnz refill*

:wave:


carfreak01 said:


> For 09A ATF fill/refill check this thread:
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3748902-DIY-Drain-Refill-on-09A-Tiptronic-Transmission


Thanks you so much, you make my day!!


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## tictactes (May 18, 2013)

*how to reinstall the valve body to lineup manual valve and detent pin*

I decided to remove my valve body in my MK4 jetta to replace all 9 solenoids and was not aware of the manual valve or The hand-operated change-over valve so I put everything back together only to discover I only had forward motion. I have tired for an hour to get the pin on the detent lever lined back up with the manual valve but cann figure it out. Does anyone know how to get the valve body back in the trans while lining up the pin for the manual valve.

Thanks


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

tictactes said:


> I decided to remove my valve body in my MK4 jetta to replace all 9 solenoids and was not aware of the manual valve or The hand-operated change-over valve so I put everything back together only to discover I only had forward motion. I have tired for an hour to get the pin on the detent lever lined back up with the manual valve but cann figure it out. Does anyone know how to get the valve body back in the trans while lining up the pin for the manual valve.
> 
> Thanks


with the VB outside of the transmission push the manual valve all the way in until is sticking out on the other side, now turn the transmission shifter shaft all the way to the left (as if you were selecting 2nd) then install the VB again making sure the manual valve is sticking out of the VB, once installed turn the shifter shaft to the right (as if you were selecting park) manual valve should have gotten in the VB, then turn shifter shaft to 2nd and manual valve should be sticking out again of the VB, this indicates a correct installation of the manual valve.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

tictactes said:


> I decided to remove my valve body in my MK4 jetta to replace all 9 solenoids and was not aware of the manual valve or The hand-operated change-over valve so I put everything back together only to discover I only had forward motion. I have tired for an hour to get the pin on the detent lever lined back up with the manual valve but cann figure it out. Does anyone know how to get the valve body back in the trans while lining up the pin for the manual valve.
> 
> Thanks


VB doesn't need removed to replace the solenoids. Its a shame to do extra work to make it more complicated and difficult to figure out when you do something wrong.


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## texasbootz (Jun 27, 2013)

Carfreak, 
Thanks for posting the advice on reconnecting manual valve (or the hand-operated change-over valve). My 04 jetta trip trans has a no reverse problem that I believe could be related to a disconnected hand-operated change-over valve. Is this valve located on the backside of the tranny valve body such that the valve body needs to be removed to get to it? Or, can it be inspected without dropping tranny?
Thanks for any advice!


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## texasbootz (Jun 27, 2013)

Another possibly stupid question.. Is the hand-operated change-over valve actuated by the gear shift lever via the multi-function switch (f125)? If not, what is connected to the change-over valve that actuates it -- anything external to the tranny that might have become disconnected or broken?
Thanks


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

texasbootz said:


> Carfreak,
> Thanks for posting the advice on reconnecting manual valve (or the hand-operated change-over valve). My 04 jetta trip trans has a no reverse problem that I believe could be related to a disconnected hand-operated change-over valve. Is this valve located on the backside of the tranny valve body such that the valve body needs to be removed to get to it? Or, can it be inspected without dropping tranny?
> Thanks for any advice!


You don't need to remove the VB to see if the manual valve is hooked or not. But you will have to remove the valve body in order to hook the manual valve.
I would disconnect the transmission first to make it go into limp mode and then see if reverse is available...if it is then the issue could be electronic....if not then problem could be mechanical.
To visually inspect for a hooked manual valve you will need to remove the transmission oil pan, manual valve sticks out of the left side of the valve body (vehicle left side, not yours) when selector is in 2nd and then gets inside the valve body when selector is in park. If this happens then manual valve is properly hooked.
To remove the trans oil pan you need to drain the atf first.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

texasbootz said:


> Another possibly stupid question.. Is the hand-operated change-over valve actuated by the gear shift lever via the multi-function switch (f125)? If not, what is connected to the change-over valve that actuates it -- anything external to the tranny that might have become disconnected or broken?
> Thanks


Manual valve is mechanically actuated by that shift lever, if you can't engage any gear then probably the cable from the selector could be disconnected somewhere. F125 has nothing to do with the actuation of the manual valve.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

Solenoid can stick and make no reverse. If you havn't had the VB off and you lost reverse then no need to think about the manual vavle. I doubt it just came loose on its own. If you can move the shifter and get "D" and then move the shifter and get "N". Then you probably dont have a manual valve problem.


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## texasbootz (Jun 27, 2013)

carfreak01 said:


> You don't need to remove the VB to see if the manual valve is hooked or not. But you will have to remove the valve body in order to hook the manual valve.
> I would disconnect the transmission first to make it go into limp mode and then see if reverse is available...if it is then the issue could be electronic....if not then problem could be mechanical.
> To visually inspect for a hooked manual valve you will need to remove the transmission oil pan, manual valve sticks out of the left side of the valve body (vehicle left side, not yours) when selector is in 2nd and then gets inside the valve body when selector is in park. If this happens then manual valve is properly hooked.
> To remove the trans oil pan you need to drain the atf first.


OK, thanks for the insight. I will disconnect the tranny to check for reverse in limp mode. If still no reverse then will remove oil pan to check for manual valve operation. Shortly after car was purchased used, we had it serviced for unsmooth shifting issues by a mechanic who was not that familiar with VWs. He changed 3 solenoids which seemed to fix shifting, however, no reverse was discovered 1-2 weeks later so maybe he did not reconnect the manual valve properly and it became disconected.


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## texasbootz (Jun 27, 2013)

CoolAirVw said:


> Solenoid can stick and make no reverse. If you havn't had the VB off and you lost reverse then no need to think about the manual vavle. I doubt it just came loose on its own. If you can move the shifter and get "D" and then move the shifter and get "N". Then you probably dont have a manual valve problem.


As mentioned in previous post, mechanic probably did remove VB to investigate shifting issues (even though it may not have been mandatory to do so to replace solenoids). That said, I am able to move shifter and get D and N so maybe it is not a problem. However, moving to 3 and 2 with the stickshift is not smooth. It is smooth shifting from P to R to N to D to 4. But must apply force in 4 to move to 3. In fact, I can't seem to get to 3 (even visually on the dash display) until enough force causes shifter to move past 3 to 2. Then I can easily move back from 2 to 3 to 4 etc. It's almost as if something is jammed inside somewhere.


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## texasbootz (Jun 27, 2013)

OK, PROGRESS!:laugh:

By disconnecting the electric plug (see pic: http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag89/texasbootz/IMG_0008_zpsc627c87d.jpg) from the transmission, reverse DID operate in limp mode! So, I guess this rules out any problem with manual valve, reverse piston and reverse brake band. It also seems to imply that I have a stuck or bad solenoid.

Looking at the oft referenced 09A/B training guide, reverse is engaged when solenoids N88, N89 and N92 are energized. What confuses me is that these are the same noids that are energized to engage 1st gear which is working... Can anyone explain why all other forward gears that utilize N88, N89 and N92 ARE working? If one or more of these noids is bad wouldn't that affect operation of the other gears that depend on it/them?

Thanks for any insights!
Tom


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

texasbootz said:


> OK, PROGRESS!:laugh:
> Looking at the oft referenced 09A/B training guide, reverse is engaged when solenoids N88, N89 and N92 are energized. What confuses me is that these are the same noids that are energized to engage 1st gear which is working... Can anyone explain why all other forward gears that utilize N88, N89 and N92 ARE working? If one or more of these noids is bad wouldn't that affect operation of the other gears that depend on it/them?
> 
> Thanks for any insights!
> Tom


you should also look at N90, this is activated when R is selected. If car is moving forward and R is selected, N90 will inhibit R.


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## texasbootz (Jun 27, 2013)

carfreak01 said:


> you should also look at N90, this is activated when R is selected. If car is moving forward and R is selected, N90 will inhibit R.


Oh really, that is interesting! So if I understand correctly, if N90 is stuck in the activated state, reverse will never engage but all forward gears would work fine. You might be onto something! Now I just need a way to test N90 (and other noids) without opening pan. I am looking at creating a makeshift test harness that would plug into tranny and enable testing with oscilloscope. Stay tuned..

Thanks!


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## RadRacer513 (Nov 1, 2010)

First off, thanks for all the information you've provides here. I'm tempted to try and rebuild my 09A with my dads help, in his shop. Are any special tools required? How difficult would you rate it? And do you think its possible for us to rebuild it, with no previous knowledge or experience with transmissions? We've built numerous motors, and have plenty of tools, both hand and air. We just have no experience with an automatic transmission, much less the internals of one!

Currently my tiptronic shifts OK in tip mode; when cold there's a slight delay between the 1-2 shift, it doesn't want to shift down from 2-1, it will occasionally flare going into 4th, and it seems to slip some in 3rd. All of these problems are even more pronounce when driving in normal mode, which I almost never do (but my wife does). Once the trans is warmed up, it seems like it drives just fine. Also, on colder days, the problems happen less often.

Right now, the car is driveable. But, being it is my only vehicle, I'd like to get it working properly so it doesn't leave me stranded one day. I've also been contemplating a manual swap (local shop does them for ~$1700), but then my wife won't be able to drive it and I lose the luxury of the automatic.

Sent from my Inspire 4G using Tapatalk 2


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## texasbootz (Jun 27, 2013)

RadRacer513 said:


> First off, thanks for all the information you've provides here. I'm tempted to try and rebuild my 09A with my dads help, in his shop. Are any special tools required? How difficult would you rate it? And do you think its possible for us to rebuild it, with no previous knowledge or experience with transmissions? We've built numerous motors, and have plenty of tools, both hand and air. We just have no experience with an automatic transmission, much less the internals of one!
> 
> Currently my tiptronic shifts OK in tip mode; when cold there's a slight delay between the 1-2 shift, it doesn't want to shift down from 2-1, it will occasionally flare going into 4th, and it seems to slip some in 3rd. All of these problems are even more pronounce when driving in normal mode, which I almost never do (but my wife does). Once the trans is warmed up, it seems like it drives just fine. Also, on colder days, the problems happen less often.
> 
> ...


Hey RadRacer,
I am relatively new to the VW world and these forums so don't claim to be anything close to an expert -- I just know enough to be dangerous  

Everything I have read in this and other forums leads me to believe that with your experience, the facilities/tools at your disposal and your dad as a helper, you should be able to tackle this challenge! That said, I wouldn't expect it to progress without a few hitches along the way and possibly a longer repair time than you might think. So, if it is your only car my only question is are you sure you can spare ~week(s) to finish the job? Best of luck if you DO tackle it!


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## texasbootz (Jun 27, 2013)

Hope everyone had a good 4th of July!

Here's a quick update of progress on building a harness to investigate testing for faulty solenoids without opening up the tranny oil pan. I don't know if this will work, but it's worth a try..

I scavanged and bought for $15 a round 18-pin tranny connector and attached wires from a local VW salvage yard:




I cut off half of the wire and used it to build a make-shift male plug. To do so, I used 5ft of 14 gage shielded, solid copper wire (Home Depot carries it at 29 cents per foot). I cut it into eighteen, 2" pieces then soldered and taped them o the cut wires as shown below:












I fashioned a make-shift male connector head out of wood and inserted the soldered wire tips as shown:


The new male and salvaged female connectors will be attached to the following probe rack made from three Radio Shack lead connectors:


Plan to plug female end into tranny and male end into female on car. Then will begin measuring with a VOM meter and eventually an oscilloscope that I hope to make from a retired smart phone and free shareware app.

Measurment requires tranny plug pin assignment diagram. As such, I WOULD GREATLY APPRECIATE ANY HELP ON WHERE TO FIND A DIAGRAM.

Thanks and stay tuned..


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## RadRacer513 (Nov 1, 2010)

texasbootz said:


> Hey RadRacer,
> I am relatively new to the VW world and these forums so don't claim to be anything close to an expert -- I just know enough to be dangerous
> 
> Everything I have read in this and other forums leads me to believe that with your experience, the facilities/tools at your disposal and your dad as a helper, you should be able to tackle this challenge! That said, I wouldn't expect it to progress without a few hitches along the way and possibly a longer repair time than you might think. So, if it is your only car my only question is are you sure you can spare ~week(s) to finish the job? Best of luck if you DO tackle it!


Thanks for the reassurance. If I do attempt this job, it will either be a) on a spare transmission, or b) on my own time where I can borrow another vehicle. Big difference between planning to be without a vehicle, and having it die when you least expect it 

Sent from my Inspire 4G using Tapatalk 2


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

texasbootz said:


> Hope everyone had a good 4th of July!
> 
> Measurment requires tranny plug pin assignment diagram. As such, I WOULD GREATLY APPRECIATE ANY HELP ON WHERE TO FIND A DIAGRAM.
> 
> Thanks and stay tuned..


look here http://www.drivehq.com/web/jfenley/Transmission_Pin-out_JF506E.pdf

also, if you already have the pin assignment to the TCM connector, then you can test continuity between TCM connector and transmission round connector to be able to locate each of the sensors and solenoids inside the transmission.
in this thread I posted the link to one of coolvdub's thread that shows pin assignment for TCM connector in case you don't have it.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

RadRacer513 said:


> Thanks for the reassurance. If I do attempt this job, it will either be a) on a spare transmission, or b) on my own time where I can borrow another vehicle. Big difference between planning to be without a vehicle, and having it die when you least expect it
> 
> Sent from my Inspire 4G using Tapatalk 2


Like you, I had worked on engine rebuilds before but never on a transmission, this was my first transmission rebuild, it took me a long time since there were sometimes months I couldn't work on my car.......probably would have been way less expensive and faster if I had taken my car to a specialist, but the way I see it, I invested in knowledge. Also, people in this forum helped me a lot and provided me with great usefull info.
Assembly is easy, making it work as it should is not, hehehe, but there are a lot of people here that I believe will be happy to help you, me included (i'm not an expert but will share what I learned).


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## texasbootz (Jun 27, 2013)

carfreak01 said:


> look here http://www.drivehq.com/web/jfenley/Transmission_Pin-out_JF506E.pdf
> 
> also, if you already have the pin assignment to the TCM connector, then you can test continuity between TCM connector and transmission round connector to be able to locate each of the sensors and solenoids inside the transmission.
> in this thread I posted the link to one of coolvdub's thread that shows pin assignment for TCM connector in case you don't have it.


Excellent! Thanks for the link it is exactly the type of diagram was looking for!


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## texasbootz (Jun 27, 2013)

RadRacer513 said:


> First off, thanks for all the information you've provides here. I'm tempted to try and rebuild my 09A with my dads help, in his shop. Are any special tools required? How difficult would you rate it? And do you think its possible for us to rebuild it, with no previous knowledge or experience with transmissions? We've built numerous motors, and have plenty of tools, both hand and air. We just have no experience with an automatic transmission, much less the internals of one!
> 
> Sent from my Inspire 4G using Tapatalk 2


While researching the net today, I found the following AWESOME 01M and 09A transmission service manual!! It not only answers your question on special tools required, but tells you how to remove, service and reinstall all transmission related parts! It's the most complete (and free) link I have found and is exactly what you need. Good luck! http://www.mikegabriel.net/vw/bentl...and Final Drive/37 Automatic Transmission.pdf


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## texasbootz (Jun 27, 2013)

OK, finished the tranny side of the test harness and have first test results! See pics below:

Tranny side of test harness is shown here. NOTE that the pin-out diagram provided by CarFreak post (shown in second pic) appears to be for the male pin side so is the mirror image of the female plug side :




I penciled in labels for each of the test leads onto the harness rack:


I confirmed integrity of harness (for opens, shorts, and improper wiring) by checking resistance between 20-pin plug and lead posts (aka the barrier strip) on the test rack. All checks showed zero resistance meaning all integrity tests passed:


Test harness connected to car tranny's electrical plug (ie, female harness plug connected to male tranny plug). VOM meter ready for testing:


Example resistance (ohms) measurement:


Resistance test results in ohms shown written in on far right side of photo. All readings are within proper ranges, however, the last two seem to be switched!? :banghead: Not sure why this is the case. I double-checked that harness wires were properly connected so..
1) the plug pin-out diagram may be incorrect (NOTE: TCM circuit diagram is consistent with plug pin-out diagram)
2) the wiring pin-outs may be slightly different for my 2004 Jetta 1.8T tip vs the 2002 diagram,
3) the salvaged plug (from a 2002 tiptronic I believe) that the harness is made with is incompatible with the 04 tranny plug..


Conclusions thus far:
1) Sensors are likely operating as they should. NOTE: Even though I do not have a spec for the temp sensor, a previous test using VCDS showed proper operation.
2) Solenoid resistances in range mean there are no shorts or open circuits inside the transmission or the solenoids themselves. However, this does not rule out whether one or more are stuck on or off. This will presumably need to be tested with an oscilloscope. 
3) I need to resolve reversed lead issue for leads 16 & 17 

Comments, help much appreciated!


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## texasbootz (Jun 27, 2013)

OK, now I am confused... I found a second source for the tranny plug pin-out diagram and test resistances, however, even though the pin numbering on the diagram is equivalent, the solenoid assignments are slightly different and neither of them match the resistances I am measuring (on two of the solenoids).. see figure below:



Secondly, I added a male connector to the test harness. Luckily, I checked it for continuity before installing it on the car and found one of the leads open so repaired it). The forllowing pics show the harness installed between tranny valve body plug and the tranny wire harness.



Pic below shows make-shift male plug connected to the female side of the harness:


Before installing test harness, I ran VCDS autoscan which showed no faults. I then installed the test harness and reran VCDS with no faults. Started car and moved gearshift through all gear positions. Car behaved as usual, ie, reverse did not engage. Rechecked VCDS and got no faults.

With car idling in park, I measured voltage across all solenoids and got the following results:

1) pin 9 & 18: 12V (N88)
2) pin 10 & 18: 12V (N92 or N89)
3) pin 11 & 18: 12V (N91 or N92)
4) pin 12 & 18: 0V (N282 or N90)
5) pin 13 & 18: 0V (N90 or N283)
6) pin 14 & 18: 0V (N281)
7) pin 15 & 18: 0V (N93)
8) pin 16 & 18: 0V (N89 or N282)
9) pin 17 & 18: 0.5V (N283 or N91)

My main focus at this point is to determine if N90 is stuck or not. So, I plan to run an "audible click test" to see if can hear N90 clicking on/off.

Stay tuned..


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## texasbootz (Jun 27, 2013)

I am sorry to report that upon applying 12V directly from the car battery to each solenoid (N90 included) via the test harness, no audible clicks were heard (reversing polarity of voltage did not work either).. NOTE: Battery was disconnected from car before performing this test.

That said, I should report that upon shifting from park to reverse and neutral to reverse with engine running there is an audible click which occurs about 1 second following the physical movement of the hand operated gear shifter. This can be heard while sitting in driver's seat with window open. This click may be a solenoid (N90?) opening/closing or attempting to do so. The puzzling thing is, I do not hear any similar clicks when shifting into drive or other forward gears (with foot on brake and vehicle stationary). 

NOTE: All codes were cleared prior to and following the above tests. VCDS continues to show no faults.

Any thoughts, advice regarding what to try next in order to test proper operation of N90 is greatly appreciated. I am trying to avoid having to open oil pan or remove TCM harness if possible.


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## texasbootz (Jun 27, 2013)

Relating to my previous post, does anyone know of a good way to rapidly cycle the N90 solenoid in case it might help dislodge a stuck solenoid piston? Can signal from one of the duty cycle solenoids be used?

Expert advice needed here!


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## naconi (Nov 1, 2009)

texasbootz said:


> I am sorry to report that upon applying 12V directly from the car battery to each solenoid (N90 included) via the test harness, no audible clicks were heard (reversing polarity of voltage did not work either).. NOTE: Battery was disconnected from car before performing this test.
> 
> That said, I should report that upon shifting from park to reverse and neutral to reverse with engine running there is an audible click which occurs about 1 second following the physical movement of the hand operated gear shifter. This can be heard while sitting in driver's seat with window open. This click may be a solenoid (N90?) opening/closing or attempting to do so. The puzzling thing is, I do not hear any similar clicks when shifting into drive or other forward gears (with foot on brake and vehicle stationary).
> 
> ...


Why don't you measure the coil voltages after you put it in reverse, then you will know which solenoids are on and which are off in reverse?


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## texasbootz (Jun 27, 2013)

naconi said:


> Why don't you measure the coil voltages after you put it in reverse, then you will know which solenoids are on and which are off in reverse?


Hey naconi, great idea! 

So here are the results:

With car idling in the reverse position (parking brake on and no reverse engaging), I measured voltage across all solenoids and got the following results:

1) pin 9 & 18: 12V (N88)
2) pin 10 & 18: 12V (N92 or N89)
3) pin 11 & 18: 12V (N91 or N92)
4) pin 12 & 18: 0V (N282 or N90)
5) pin 13 & 18: 0V (N90 or N283)
6) pin 14 & 18: 0V (N281)
7) pin 15 & 18: 2V (N93)
8) pin 16 & 18: 4V (N89 or N282)
9) pin 17 & 18: 0V (N283 or N91)

I read somewhere that N90 is supposed to lockout reverse when vehicle is in forward motion. Since vehicle is stationary, this may explain why it is not activated. Guess I'll see if I can get my wife to put it into drive with brake on to see what voltage readings I get then. 

Thanks for the ideas, keep em coming!


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## texasbootz (Jun 27, 2013)

OK, I measured solenoid voltages vs. all gear positions (except tiptronic) while car was stationary with engine running and emergency brake applied (and I didn't get run over in the process ). Results are as follows:

--------------------------------------P------R-------N------D------4------3-------2
______________________________________________________________
1) pin 9 & 18: (N88)--------------12----12------12-----12-----12----12-----12
2) pin 10 & 18: (N92 or N89)----12----12------12-----12-----12----12-----12
3) pin 11 & 18: (N91 or N92)----12----12------12-----12-----12----12-----12
4) pin 12 & 18: (N282 or N90)----0-----0-------0-------0------0------0------0
5) pin 13 & 18: (N90 or N283)----0-----0-------0-------0------0------0------0
6) pin 14 & 18: (N281)------------0-----0-------0-------0------0------0------0
7) pin 15 & 18: (N93)-------------4-----2-------4-------2------2------2------2
8) pin 16 & 18: (N89 or N282)---4-----4-------4-------3------3------3------3
9) pin 17 & 18: (N283 or N91)----0-----0-------0-------0------0------0------0

Observations, conclusions, comments, suggestions very welcome!


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

texasbootz said:


> I am sorry to report that upon applying 12V directly from the car battery to each solenoid (N90 included) via the test harness, no audible clicks were heard (reversing polarity of voltage did not work either).. NOTE: Battery was disconnected from car before performing this test.
> .


I believe CoolAirVw already explained to you why some solenoids click and others don't when you feed them 12V. That explanation is also in this thread maybe in page 2.
I disassembled 2 solenoids, one that clicked and one that didn't, the one that clicked had a return spring, the other solenoid didn't have a spring so it will click and then you have to return the pintle (as explained by CoolAirVw) for it to click again.
There is no way you will hear a solenoid click with the engine on, too much noise.
You have already meassured resistance from the TCM connector, right? and it gave you the reading it supposed to, correct? just measure continuity between those pins in the TCM connector and your test fixture to be able to assign pins to solenoids inside the transmission.

You can use signal from other solenoid to feed N90 but I don't see how that will help you to dislodge the pintle (if this is the issue), you already fed 12V to it and that didn't help.

You have 7 solenoids with 16-19ohms and two with 5ohms, I think that the pin assignment on those diagrams is not correct.
CoolAirVw said that maybe the pintle of the solenoids can be pushed back with compressed air, why don't you try that (you will need to drain the ATF I believe)? and feed 12V again and see if it clicks, if it doesn't maybe is stuck and you need to replace it,


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

texasbootz said:


> OK, PROGRESS!:laugh:
> 
> By disconnecting the electric plug (see pic: http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag89/texasbootz/IMG_0008_zpsc627c87d.jpg) from the transmission, reverse DID operate in limp mode! So, I guess this rules out any problem with manual valve, reverse piston and reverse brake band. It also seems to imply that I have a stuck or bad solenoid.
> 
> Looking at the oft referenced 09A/B training guide, reverse is engaged when solenoids N88, N89 and N92 are energized.


Sorry to rain on your parade but the above check is have very little value. If you have a pressure loss ot the reverse piston or reverse brake band, and if you unplug the trans then your unplugging the pressure control solenoid. Unplugged your pressure control solenoid makes the pressure of the trans go to maximum. Maximum pressure might be enough to overcome the pressure loss on the components mentioned above. 

But.. I'm amazed at your efforts. Nice. I know I've read and commented on this thread before but I dont have time to re-read. There is a solenoid that can stick and cause no reverse. Might have been quicker and more conclusive to change the solenoid.


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## soccerplayer7 (Aug 2, 2013)

*Good advice*

So i disagree with the fact that changing the solenoid would be easier. i changed all mine on the 09A and still no reverse. now i gotta go and do all this electrical testing. by doing that first u have eliminated wasting money on solenoids if thats not the problem. live and learn lol gonna do all the electrical tests and if all is good removing tranny and splitting the case will keep u posted


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## texasbootz (Jun 27, 2013)

soccerplayer7 said:


> So i disagree with the fact that changing the solenoid would be easier. i changed all mine on the 09A and still no reverse. now i gotta go and do all this electrical testing. by doing that first u have eliminated wasting money on solenoids if thats not the problem. live and learn lol gonna do all the electrical tests and if all is good removing tranny and splitting the case will keep u posted


soccerplayer7, thanks for the words of encouragement. Sorry to hear your efforts to change all noids did not fix your reverse problem -- bummer!! :what:

Any chance you saved the old set of noids and would be willing to part with them if I paid for postage and maybe a bit for the trouble? I would like to do some electrical bench testing and characterization on them with an oscilloscope etc. to see if they exhibit comparable signatures to those in my Jetta.


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## soccerplayer7 (Aug 2, 2013)

*SURE*

Yeah i would be willing to part with them
(208)318-6619 give me a call


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

texasbootz said:


> soccerplayer7, thanks for the words of encouragement. Sorry to hear your efforts to change all noids did not fix your reverse problem -- bummer!! :what:
> 
> Any chance you saved the old set of noids and would be willing to part with them if I paid for postage and maybe a bit for the trouble? I would like to do some electrical bench testing and characterization on them with an oscilloscope etc. to see if they exhibit comparable signatures to those in my Jetta.


 Haven't heard from you......are you still working on this?


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## willmelo77 (Apr 15, 2014)

*09A GNZ Valve Body Diagram*

Hi there, I need help!!!

Can anybody please post or send to my mail the 09A GNZ Valve Body Diagram (pictured). all wires positions/balls positions
I will highly appreciate it.


[email protected]


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## willmelo77 (Apr 15, 2014)

*09A GNZ Valve Body Diagram*

Hi there, I need help!!!

Can anybody please post or send to my mail the 09A GNZ Valve Body Diagram (pictured). all wires positions/balls positions
I will highly appreciate it.


[email protected]:banghead:


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

willmelo77 said:


> Hi there, I need help!!!
> 
> Can anybody please post or send to my mail the 09A GNZ Valve Body Diagram (pictured). all wires positions/balls positions
> I will highly appreciate it.
> ...


Hey, I sent you an email with pictures for the checkballs and solenoid wire harness (posted in this thread).
If you don't have the diagram with the exploded view of the valve body, it will be very difficult to put it back together the way it should be. I do not recomend you disassemble all valves at the same time, you should do one at a time and review the correct order of assembly of each one, if you miss something your trans won't work as it should. If the issue is electronic, then you shoudn't dissasemble the VB because you could create a different issue.
good luck.


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## Tuf (Mar 30, 2015)

Greetings, 
I have a vw bora ,1.9 tdi ,85 kw , engine code AUY , gearbox code 09A 321 107. Reverse don't work. 
On vag com no errors . When i pun in R it feels something conect but the car stay still. I accelerate without a move from the car, only the speedometer goes until 40 km/h. Forward drive goes in all the ghears , and when i release the gas pedal rpm goes at idlle.
I found a gearbox from a 96 kw engine with code 09A 321 106 it will goes on my car ?
Really i don' t know from where to start.


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## muvavava80 (Jul 29, 2015)

*tranny issues*

Hello Carfreak, need help here. my 09A tranny has no reverse. i can feel it engage but there is just not enough power when i press on the pedal. it will slowly roll back. reading your posts i noticed you said the brake band if fine as it engages when you put it on R. If so i should check the hi/reverse clutch? jus need your advice on the issue.

Highly appreciate your feedback.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Does that happens only when in R?
Have you checked the fluid level?

I would first check fluid level and scan TCM to see if it shows an error.
If those two things are ok, i would check fluid pressures to make sure clutches and brake band are being engaged.

Post back your findings.


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## memoryinuse2 (Sep 27, 2015)

*09a funk*



carfreak01 said:


> Hello all,
> 
> Does anyone know howto test the multi function switch?
> I finally turned the car on but it only goes forward at any position. I tried adjusting the switch position but did not work.
> ...


i've been fighting a n 09a transmission since November past. hope i can get some expert advice, coolair comes to mind


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## memoryinuse2 (Sep 27, 2015)

*multifunction switch recap 2015*



memoryinuse2 said:


> i've been fighting a n 09a transmission since November past. hope i can get some expert advice, coolair comes to mind


seems as if there would be an answer at the end of a thread. if i find one i'll come here and reenter satisfaction of the procedure.


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