# Need help on a remote key. My Beetle 2007 does not get unlocked



## SummerTom (Jan 18, 2015)

Hi guys,
I got a problem on my beetle 2007. Nice blue one... My remote key does not unlock the door. It does unlock the rear lid and also does lock the door. It has been working just fine until today. I never replaced the battery. 

The user's manual tells I need to reset the key. I've tried the procedure in the manual (below) for 5 times but it didn't get it fixed.

1. Press unlock or lock button on the remote control key.
2. Within one minute, manually unlock the door with the key lid. 

Does anyone have any idea?

Thanks!


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## Obnoxiousblue (Oct 31, 2006)

The remote is paired, or not paired. It doesn't select which functions it wants to work. So, you have one of two things going on here.
Have you tried your other remote? Perhaps, the remote is damaged, or the little spacer behind the unlock pad on the remote isn't depressing the sensor on the circuit board inside the key.
If the other door is unlocking, meaning only one door is NOT unlocking then the issue is inside the door.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Odd issue. After changing the batter on mine I did it the way the Audi tech explained it. Insert key in lock, turn key to lock while holding lock button. Let go of button and remove key. Done. Did all this start *after *you changed the battery in the remote?


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## SummerTom (Jan 18, 2015)

Obnoxiousblue said:


> The remote is paired, or not paired. It doesn't select which functions it wants to work. So, you have one of two things going on here.
> Have you tried your other remote? Perhaps, the remote is damaged, or the little spacer behind the unlock pad on the remote isn't depressing the sensor on the circuit board inside the key.
> If the other door is unlocking, meaning only one door is NOT unlocking then the issue is inside the door.


Unfortunately it's my only remote. The other one does not have a circuit. The both doors don't get unlocked.


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## SummerTom (Jan 18, 2015)

petethepug said:


> Odd issue. After changing the batter on mine I did it the way the Audi tech explained it. Insert key in lock, turn key to lock while holding lock button. Let go of button and remove key. Done. Did all this start *after *you changed the battery in the remote?


No I never changed the battery since day 1. It just started acting odd the other day. I've tried what you mentioned. What drives me crazy is the driver's seat window opened when I tried your procedure.


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## Obnoxiousblue (Oct 31, 2006)

Head over to sidewinderkey.com and pick up a new transmitter, if not a whole second key. Mark is very reasonable, and does work fast. Transmitters are easy to pair to your car and don't need a dealer to do. They can be had cheap on eBay, both new and used or can be got at the dealer for about $75. That's money I would gladly spend to avoid taking apart the door uneccesarily.
But, since your have one door that locks/unlocks and one that doesn't... I don't truly think the issue is your remote. Sounds like the door has an issue.
That's not a software issue, you need to open it up to find out.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Change the battery 1st.

A new key can not be added to the car unless it gets flashed to the ECU by a tech at the DLR. If you do need another key for the car, all the keys must be present and flashed to the ECU at the same time. The dealer we purchased ours from did this for free to add a 2nd key. We had a valet key added to the set as a back up too.

The odd thing about Mk IV valet keys is that it only works in the ignition, *period.* It will fit in the door but spins around 360* without catching any of the tumblers.


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## Rockerchick (May 10, 2005)

petethepug said:


> Change the battery 1st.
> 
> A new key can not be added to the car unless it gets flashed to the ECU by a tech at the DLR. If you do need another key for the car, all the keys must be present and flashed to the ECU at the same time. The dealer we purchased ours from did this for free to add a 2nd key. We had a valet key added to the set as a back up too.
> 
> The odd thing about Mk IV valet keys is that it only works in the ignition, *period.* It will fit in the door but spins around 360* without catching any of the tumblers.


I know at least on older Mkiv's you can program the keys to the immobilizer yourself if you have access to the right software (VAG-TACHO and VCDS). And you only need all that if you want to get the key to work. You can get a fob and just use the remote portion and that's easily programmed yourself. You're lucky the dealer did it for free - many charge $350 or so for a new key, programming, and immobilizer matching. 

Petethepug - You need to get a new valet key or something then. They should work in the ignition and the door (so the car can be locked of course). It shouldn't work the trunk or glove box. Sounds like you have your own issue there. I had a valet key for my '99 and it worked like a charm. It was also keyed to work everything on the car (trunk and glove box included) which was actually nice - I had a spare key without the cost of the fob that I didn't need (the valet key was my husband's key to my car and he didn't want a fob to carry around).


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## Obnoxiousblue (Oct 31, 2006)

I'm no authority, but I'm pretty sure you can still program the transmitter yourself. You don't need vagcom or vagtacho to program the lock/unlock/trunk/panic features. You only need it (along with your SKC) to introduce the ECU/immobilizer to the RFID in the key.

Loosen the lock tumbler screw in the jamb side of the driver's door. Gently, remove the lock tumbler from the car, be careful not to drop it. Get a flathead screwdriver and acquaint yourself with the lock/unlock lever that sits inside the door. The lever you see pushes/pulls the cable in the door. There is a detailed diagram of this in the Bentley manual. (This one, sort of helps you see what's going on too http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/show...sembly=743892&ukey_make=1066&ukey_model=15563) Once you have the tumbler out you may quickly realize that one of the pulls inside the door has dislodged or even jammed thus causing the door to not unlock as you have described. Just the same, while the tumbler is out use your remote to lock/unlock and see if the actuator works as it should. This will quickly narrow down for you where the issue is. The issue here probably lives in the cable, or maybe the latch micro switch. I really think it is isolated to this one door since the transmitter works the other door. Start at the tumbler, and work in the door piece by piece in the lock system, you'll find the issue.

If, by some odd chance the transmitter IS the problem, you're still in a bind. Because to program a master (HAA) key, you need to have two HAA blades. But, no worries. Since your door is already open, simply take your current HAA master key and put the car to "ignition on", lower the window and keep the ignition on. Just, don't start the car. Then, put your screwdriver in the door, and turn it to "lock" and hold it there for ten seconds, release it and on your new transmitter press the unlock button once. Wait two seconds and press unlock again. If your turn signals flash (and the car unlocks/locks) you're fixed. Put the tumbler back in the door and be happy.

Add - to clarify this valet key convo.
Valet keys are marked "NAA" the main keys, like your flip key, are marked "HAA" 
HAA keys have a thinner shoulder than the NAA key, so a valet key will not fit all the way into the trunk.
Just because the key isn't a flip, doesn't mean it's a valet key. There are main keys, that don't have them lip/transmitter. They have the same head as a valet key, but the blade has a thinner shoulder.

Here's a pic of my NAA (left) and HAA (right) note the thickness of the shoulders (right side of the blade)


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Thanks for the info on the valet key having issues. Having an extra key made was conditional of the sale of the car. Fortunately I have them take on ordering the (correct) valet key for the car. Next time the car goes in I'll let them figure out why it wont work in the door. 

BTW nice bit of info about keys in the last post.


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## Rockerchick (May 10, 2005)

This is also a good resource for key information. Part numbers, etc.

sidewinderkey.com/

We've gotten a few keys from them. Customer service is great.


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## Obnoxiousblue (Oct 31, 2006)

^ Agreed! Mark is super great to work with. He knows his craft well, is fast, fair and makes sure you get what you want. He's done a few keys for me now and I HIGHLY recommend him!


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

petethepug said:


> Thanks for the info on the valet key having issues. Having an extra key made was conditional of the sale of the car. Fortunately I have them take on ordering the (correct) valet key for the car. Next time the car goes in I'll let them figure out why it wont work in the door.
> 
> BTW nice bit of info about keys in the last post.


Finally brought the 07 triple white convertible in to the dealer for a check engine light and transmission slip issue. The service writer explained that the valet key provided by their parts department was for an Audi. It's all on the dealer to re order the correct valet key and code it to the ECU. It was really nice to have that new car feel and be able to hear the dealership say "we'll take care of it".

Along with that, the service writer and I were having a conversation about the weird notion of VW owners expecting Honda reliability from their VW's purchased, especially pre owned cars. He was stating that it was really weird that more peeps don't purchase an extended warranty or service contract on pre owned cars.

A next day the SW calls and said your trans has a bad Transmission Control Unit. The two year 40K powertrain service contract purchased with the car will cover it. This same dealer (Capistrano VW) had sent out a pamphlet of coupons the day we took it in. When the SW explained it was $140 to have the codes read for the CEL, we held the dealers "free check engine read" coupon up like it was kryptonite. The CEL was from an air leak in the valve cover gasket. I discovered this prior to bringing the car in. Under the press on cover to the motor a vacuum lead was coming from the PCV. The dealer wants $500+ to replace the entire valve cover gasket because the part is not available separately.

Instinct was right, the diagram is available as an aftermarket part (DORMAN #: 917-064) for about $19 as Dixie600mhz kindly explained in this thread. Since he posted this in 2010 Dorman made this replacement part. I'll post the correct part # for the valet key when it arrives.

http://www.vwforum.com/forums/f29/2-5l-air-leak-2006-valve-cover-replacement-pcv-valve-42034/

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=Dorman+917-064+PCV+Valve&_sop=15


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