# R32T dyno... less than impressive Help me figure out what is wrong



## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

I threw my car on a 2WD DYNOmite the other day and was expecting good numbers but was sadly disappointed with the results. I have been running 15 psi on a PT6162 turbo for a while now and it feels pretty strong, even pulled on a Kawasaki K1000 on the way up to the dyno. 

Anyway here is my dyno as you can see the torque quickly falls off after hitting peak numbers.










Some of my car buddies have said it looks like the motor is getting choked and causing the power to die down. I am running a 4" turbo inlet with a 4" AEM filter that probably could use some cleaning. As for the exhaust I am running a 3" DP to an ATP 3" v-banded high flow cat to a EIP 3" cat back. the only thing I can think is that either the air filter or cat are choking the car. Fortunately they are both easy to take off if needed.

Here is a dyno of another R32T with a GT35R for comparison. He was running 14 psi for this run.










Granted he is closer to sea level and he dynoed in April vs my 100* July day. But you can see that his torque does not fall off like mine does.

I currently have a pretty bad vac leak from not running a check valve to my brake booster and it is now leaking. Could that affect how the car is under boost? I know it is messing with the idle.

Here is my setup.


----------



## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

nick, what was the ambient temp when you dyno'd???? between density altitude and air density based upon ambient, you could be at least 20% down on power.

a simple calc of 100F @ 29hg's with 15% Hum will drop air density 21%....now if that is not taken into account and/or altitude correction not adjusted, you're going to be down on power.


----------



## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

the dyno is at about 4300' and the ambient was about 97*. The shop had one fan blowing on the front of the car as well.


----------



## dreadlocks (May 24, 2006)

your comparing different machines, different altitudes, and different climates. 

The curve looks normal to me, everything is probably fine. 
You should have got a baseline on the same machine @ aprox same humidity & temps, prior to turboing your car. This is how you know if you got the gains you were seeking. Comparing to someone else is pretty much pointless and dyno corrections are too.. 

Temps make a huge difference, I got a baseline in april (just above freezing), went back in early august after some more mods (100F+).. Fell short of the gains I expected by ~35%, went back the following april (just above freezing) w/out messing with anything and I found out my mods did as I expected/hoped. So now I just wait til a cold morning in early spring to dyno, any other time/place is mainly a waste of my money. 

Cheers,
-R


----------



## R32EEEK (Oct 13, 2004)

a fubar'd cat will cause you to not build boost in a normal way, either delaying onset, failure to reach desired boost level, or both. Do you have a copy of the Dyno plot without smoothing turned on?

I would check your timing pull in the logs... with temps that high, you could be detonating.


----------



## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

dreadlocks said:


> your comparing different machines, different altitudes, and different climates.
> 
> The curve looks normal to me, everything is probably fine.
> You should have got a baseline on the same machine @ aprox same humidity & temps, prior to turboing your car. This is how you know if you got the gains you were seeking. Comparing to someone else is pretty much pointless and dyno corrections are too..
> ...


A baseline dyno while the car is stock is pointless. I was posting the other dyno to show that his turbo doesn't fall on it's face nearly as bad as mine seems to.



R32EEEK said:


> a fubar'd cat will cause you to not build boost in a normal way, either delaying onset, failure to reach desired boost level, or both. Do you have a copy of the Dyno plot without smoothing turned on?
> 
> I would check your timing pull in the logs... with temps that high, you could be detonating.


I don't have the sheet with 0 smoothing. I have tried to turn up the boost a bit on my ball/spring MBC and it is pretty flaky, sometimes it will spike 20 psi but it then falls down to ~15. I was writing it off as a crappy boost controller, but now I'm curious about the cat. Maybe I'll pull it off and do a visual inspection on it.


----------



## R32EEEK (Oct 13, 2004)

oh, and 1 last thing. fix your vacuum leak. It could simply be that. I had a chewed intake o ring and it caused very similar stuff to happen up high. get it all sealed up and I bet it behaves MUCH better.


----------



## [email protected] (Jan 2, 2009)

fwiw, those are corrected dyno numbers, if anything- over corrected- so forget about calculating for altitude / weather / etc. 

Something's choking that thing up top or boost is falling off.


----------



## FaelinGL (Nov 28, 2004)

Torque curve looks about right to me. Try doing the dyno without the AEM air filter; just don't get anything near it!! I've had horrible problems with AEM and Spectre filters; would run horrible lean in boost. I swapped to a K&N and had no problems. 

Mike


----------



## huichox4 (Nov 8, 2004)

I have been thinking about this one a lot.

torque actually falls off the same amount, 80ish ft.lb in both but your peak tq is at 5k his is in average 4.5 flat until 5.5k. Dont count the one run with the most power because it actually is different than the other 3. average and consistency of the other runs seems better for comparison in my opinion. 

That little fan in front of your intercooler was not doing much I honestly think that you were heat soaked big time + your brake booster blowing up might have been a place were boost was being lost or reason why you cannot hold more than 15psi constantly. 

you made 385fwhp and 370ish fwtq
he made 404fwhp and 380 fwtq (green run)

your numbers are 15hp and 10ish ft.lb less he has a usp test pipe which the two 2" pipes area is smaller than the area of a single 3" pipe most likely the cause of his torque being there way earlier and flatter for a bit until it falls off like yours. you also have the short runner which means that your low end power is pushed to the right and up. 


a choked system with stock cats looks like this .......... (mine) stock cats in there only went down ~1 to 1.5psi up top

this confirms that choked exhaust brings your power band to the left and down rapidly in the higher rpms LOL




















so at the end your numbers are not far off but your top end should be better with the SRI and the better flowing exhaust. The AEM filter is something I dont know about but if correct it could make the difference

try to dyno in a dynojet and that might give us a better point of comparison with other cars. loading throus off your numbers and that dyno I have never heard off.


----------



## huichox4 (Nov 8, 2004)

hey I realized that he was running less boost 11.5 on the other runs and the 14 psi one is the one that spiked higher. so my comments before are mostly wrong.


----------



## zoidmk5 (Sep 17, 2006)

it would probably help if you posted logs of your boost readings at the same time as a dyno, as well as more information about your setup


----------



## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

zoidmk5 said:


> it would probably help if you posted logs of your boost readings at the same time as a dyno, as well as more information about your setup


How am I supposed to log boost readings on a car with no MAP sensor? And what other info do you want?


----------



## huichox4 (Nov 8, 2004)

DarkSideGTI said:


> How am I supposed to log boost readings on a car with no MAP sensor? And what other info do you want?


at the dyno they "T" off your mani to get boost readings like I posted above, it at least gives you the idea of how it tappers down or were your spike happens and not holds


----------



## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

I don't think their dyno had the ability to do that.


----------



## zoidmk5 (Sep 17, 2006)

simply find somebody with a VAGCOM, plug it in, and graph the boost and whatever other readings you want while your on the dyno, and we can compare the RPM points on the boost graph to the dyno to see where you'r boost is through the entire power band. you can technically get readings for anything you want while your on the dyno with VAGCOM hooked up


----------



## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

zoidmk5 said:


> simply find somebody with a VAGCOM, plug it in, and graph the boost and whatever other readings you want while your on the dyno, and we can compare the RPM points on the boost graph to the dyno to see where you'r boost is through the entire power band. you can technically get readings for anything you want while your on the dyno with VAGCOM hooked up


I know how to do it with a car that has a MAP sensor as I used to do it all the time on my 1.8T. Problem is the R32 doesn't have a positive manifold pressure sensor so you can't do any logs. Anyway, I watched my boost gauge the whole pull and it was right at 15 psi.


----------



## huichox4 (Nov 8, 2004)

DarkSideGTI said:


> I don't think their dyno had the ability to do that.


 were you went might not have it, but most dynos usually charge more if you want all that logged, also did you get an A/F reading too? they charge extra for that as well. 

did you see your wideband during the runs (if you have one?


----------



## killa (Nov 26, 2000)

Nick, 

try a bigger hotside, preferably a 65 instead of a 62 and maybe even a size up in housing. the Torque is falling too quick, i'd be it's due to backpressure as a 62mm turbine is good for a 4cyl at that 5000rpm mark.:thumbup:


----------



## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

Got a new brake booster, vac check valve, and a K&N filter to replace the AEM one. Going to install it all tomorrow, hopefully the car feels stronger and holds boost after that.


----------



## huichox4 (Nov 8, 2004)

DarkSideGTI said:


> Got a new brake booster, vac check valve, and a K&N filter to replace the AEM one. Going to install it all tomorrow, hopefully the car feels stronger and holds boost after that.


:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## dave13s4 (Dec 16, 2004)

I just saw this thread and looked at both graphs and noticed something, your graph is on standard correction, his graph is uncorrected. Sometimes it does make a big difference sometimes it doesn't. You may want to compare an uncorrected version of ur graph to his or get a corrected version of his graph. I'm guessing that was patryk's r32? Either way if you want I may be able to have the guys at FFE get the corrected version of his graph for you for better comparison if you don't have it already.


----------



## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

his torque does not fall off like mine does. I'm almost positive mine is due to my car spiking 18 psi and then slowly lowering to 15 psi. I need to figure out what is up with this boost controller.


----------



## dave13s4 (Dec 16, 2004)

i was talking about the graphs because of the difference in peak numbers. as for the torque falling off not sure what it could be, my graph shows the same thing. i'm starting to wonder if a bigger hotside would help.


----------



## huichox4 (Nov 8, 2004)

^^^ what size hot size you have?

I will have my car bak up and running some time in the next week I hope and will dyno soon after with a bigger hot side from what I got before plus a less restricted exhaust. 

then I will post and see the differences that a 1.06 t3 hot size does compared to a .82


----------



## dave13s4 (Dec 16, 2004)

its a pt6765, with a t4 .81 hotside


----------



## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

yeah I have a .81 T4 hotside too. Should be big enough for a 3.2l


So my car started doing something else now. I fixed my vac leak and now while cruising if I keep the RPM's steady, the car seems to misfire on me. I am wondering if my BOV is opening slightly, it would also explain why I am spiking 20 psi then slowly going down to 15. I need to get a camera on it or something and drive around a bit. If that's the case I could alway shim the spring a bit more to increase the spring rate.


----------



## huichox4 (Nov 8, 2004)

DarkSideGTI said:


> yeah I have a .81 T4 hotside too. Should be big enough for a 3.2l
> 
> 
> So my car started doing something else now. I fixed my vac leak and now while cruising if I keep the RPM's steady, the car seems to misfire on me. I am wondering if my BOV is opening slightly, it would also explain why I am spiking 20 psi then slowly going down to 15. I need to get a camera on it or something and drive around a bit. If that's the case I could alway shim the spring a bit more to increase the spring rate.


were do you get your vacuum for the BOV? it should be from the IM, 

I ask because at part throttle you should have the same pressure (off boost) at the IC piping and Vac source for the BOV so it should not open 

when letting off the gas, going off boost, the pressure differencial opens up the BOV (Vac from the IM pulls the diaphragn/piston up, while boost, still on the piping, pushes up the diaphragn/piston of the DV so it gets released. if it makes no sense what I say let me know


----------



## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

yeah it is straight from the IM. You are probably right, at part throttle I should be at -5" of vac or so, which "should" keep the bov shut. I was just trying to figure out what is causing that part throttle misfire. It only happens if I hold the RPM's steady for a few seconds. I don't experience it on the street, only the freeway.


----------



## huichox4 (Nov 8, 2004)

DarkSideGTI said:


> yeah it is straight from the IM. You are probably right, at part throttle I should be at -5" of vac or so, which "should" keep the bov shut. I was just trying to figure out what is causing that part throttle misfire. It only happens if I hold the RPM's steady for a few seconds. I don't experience it on the street, only the freeway.


I think you had an issue before with misfires due to the injector plugs right? you might want to check those just in case. 

also when was the last time you changed sparkplugs? are you getting the misfire code?


----------



## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

Built myself a little boost leak tester today.



















hooked it up and pressurized the system to 25 psi.










found a decent leak at the TB. The T-bolt clamp is supposed to have a metal "bridge" between the two sides to help keep the couple flat. that was missing on this one, but luckily I had a coupler with one on it.










Took the car for a drive and it actually seemed to misfire more. Probably due to more air coming in. I'm not gonna do anything else til I get my new plugs in on Tuesday.


----------



## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

Well the reason for the misfires getting worse after I fixed the boost leak was because I started the car with the MAF unplugged and it threw a code. Once that code was cleared it still misfired, but only in the upper RPMs like before.

I put in some new NGK DCPR9EIX plugs gapped to .022" last night and the misfire is gone. Feels like it is pulling a bit harder now and all the way to redline. Now to figure out what is causing my boost to fall off...


----------



## huichox4 (Nov 8, 2004)

DarkSideGTI said:


> Well the reason for the misfires getting worse after I fixed the boost leak was because I started the car with the MAF unplugged and it threw a code. Once that code was cleared it still misfired, but only in the upper RPMs like before.
> 
> I put in some new NGK DCPR9EIX plugs gapped to .022" last night and the misfire is gone. Feels like it is pulling a bit harder now and all the way to redline. Now to figure out what is causing my boost to fall off...


try another boost controller maybe. a stiffer spring in the DV?? how do you have it hooked up?


----------



## R32EEEK (Oct 13, 2004)

Strange as it may sound, you can also try running the DV backwards if it is, in fact related.

Oh and as far as boost controllers go, the ones that plumb into both sides of the WG diaphragm are pretty friggin sweet. Full control over that thing regardless of spring. :thumbup:


----------



## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

huichox4 said:


> try another boost controller maybe. a stiffer spring in the DV?? how do you have it hooked up?


I don't have any other boost controllers laying around. I am also running a TiAl 50mm BOV and not a DV. I have shimmed the spring to stiffen it, I don't think it is opening on me, but can't be 100%. The BOV has a direct vac source from the intake manifold.


----------



## R32EEEK (Oct 13, 2004)

DarkSideGTI said:


> I don't have any other boost controllers laying around. I am also running a TiAl 50mm BOV and not a DV. I have shimmed the spring to stiffen it, I don't think it is opening on me, but can't be 100%. The BOV has a direct vac source from the intake manifold.


Surprised you're not running uber rich with that setup. Any problems with coming off boost and having the engine sputter/die?


----------



## huichox4 (Nov 8, 2004)

DarkSideGTI said:


> I don't have any other boost controllers laying around. I am also running a TiAl 50mm BOV and not a DV. I have shimmed the spring to stiffen it, I don't think it is opening on me, but can't be 100%. The BOV has a direct vac source from the intake manifold.


Sorry I meant how you have the boost controller hooked up. Like R32EEEK mentioned there are a few that hook up differently for better control


----------



## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

R32EEEK said:


> Surprised you're not running uber rich with that setup. Any problems with coming off boost and having the engine sputter/die?


Nope, I ran one on my old 1.8T BT as well. It will only run rich when the BOV opens so _sometimes_ I get a bit of a backfire between shifts if I am getting on it. But I actually kinda like that. I had issues at first with the valve opening up under decel and it was killing the engine. I got a stiffer spring so that it didn't open anymore under decel and has worked great ever since.


----------



## huichox4 (Nov 8, 2004)

DarkSideGTI said:


> I don't have any other boost controllers laying around. I am also running a TiAl 50mm BOV and not a DV. I have shimmed the spring to stiffen it, I don't think it is opening on me, but can't be 100%. The BOV has a direct vac source from the intake manifold.


weird.... I posted and then check again and my post is not here :screwy: I'll try again


I am sorry, I wanted to know how you have your manual boost controller hooked up, like R32EEEK mentioned there are a few different types like the bleeder types, ball and spring etc.


Edit: its showing up now how weird ..... it might have been due to both posting at the same time :screwy:


----------



## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

huichox4 said:


> Sorry I meant how you have the boost controller hooked up. Like R32EEEK mentioned there are a few that hook up differently for better control


It is a ball/spring boostvalve controller. I have a boost source coming off the compressor side of the turbo feeding the bottom of the boost valve. Then the outlet of the boost valve goes to the side port of the WG.


----------



## huichox4 (Nov 8, 2004)

DarkSideGTI said:


> It is a ball/spring boostvalve controller. I have a boost source coming off the compressor side of the turbo feeding the bottom of the boost valve. Then the outlet of the boost valve goes to the side port of the WG.


hmmm, it doesn't get simpler than that I see. 

the only way that your turbo wont continue to spool is because the wastegate opens and that is what its happening somehow or an exhaust leak a very big one but that will make the boost fluctuate alot and has to be before the turbine housing.


----------



## R32EEEK (Oct 13, 2004)

how big is the wg spring?


----------



## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

R32EEEK said:


> how big is the wg spring?


11 psi.


----------



## dave13s4 (Dec 16, 2004)

DarkSideGTI said:


> 11 psi.


Try changing out the boost controller


----------



## Greengt1 (Aug 27, 2006)

So wait... Its externally gated? Im not too sure on how the externally gates are.. I thought they needed vacuum to open. Correct me if i'm wrong.

It seems if the compressor feeds the controller, and the controller is closed (theoretically), it would make the wg open at 11 psi.. right? 

And if the controller was open, the wg would open later, making more boost?

Im just


----------



## R32EEEK (Oct 13, 2004)

It's a bleeder type. The reference line to the wastegate will cause the WG to open when the reference boost exceeds the pressure afforded by the spring, in this case 11psi. When boost is bled from this reference line, the turbo is able to spool beyond the 11 psi afforded by the spring since the WG sees boost - bleed which is less than 11psi and wont activate until boost - bleed > 11psi. The more you bleed, the higher the boost.

External wastegates are closed by default and when under vacuum.


----------



## huichox4 (Nov 8, 2004)

R32EEEK said:


> It's a bleeder type. The reference line to the wastegate will cause the WG to open when the reference boost exceeds the pressure afforded by the spring, in this case 11psi. When boost is bled from this reference line, the turbo is able to spool beyond the 11 psi afforded by the spring since the WG sees boost - bleed which is less than 11psi and wont activate until boost - bleed > 11psi. The more you bleed, the higher the boost.
> 
> External wastegates are closed by default and when under vacuum.


all controllers trick the wastegate in what the actual boost is, wastegate opens at 11psi, the controller wont show boost to it until the set boost is reached


----------



## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

it's not a bleeder, it's a ball/spring. Similar principles though. The boost pushes on a ball bearing that in turn pushes against a spring. To increase boost you tighten the spring pressure requiring more boost pressure to open the valve.


----------



## R32EEEK (Oct 13, 2004)

huichox4 said:


> all *MANUAL* controllers trick the wastegate in what the actual boost is, wastegate opens at 11psi, the controller wont show boost to it until the set boost is reached


Changed that for you. Electronic boost controllers are capable of controlling both sides of the diaphragm in order to modulate the gate or hold it completely open.


----------



## huichox4 (Nov 8, 2004)

R32EEEK said:


> Changed that for you. Electronic boost controllers are capable of controlling both sides of the diaphragm in order to modulate the gate or hold it completely open.


Thanks :thumbup::thumbup:

I assumed it was implied


----------



## huichox4 (Nov 8, 2004)

any updates on this?


----------



## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

It's still not holding 20 psi. All misfires were taken care of with a fresh set of plugs.

I haven't really done much with it lately.


----------



## zoidmk5 (Sep 17, 2006)

DarkSideGTI said:


> It's still not holding 20 psi. All misfires were taken care of with a fresh set of plugs.
> 
> I haven't really done much with it lately.


well with that being the only problem, as we all have said before, getting a larger hotside is def. your best bet


----------



## huichox4 (Nov 8, 2004)

DarkSideGTI said:


> It's still not holding 20 psi. All misfires were taken care of with a fresh set of plugs.
> 
> I haven't really done much with it lately.


no misfires is good :thumbup::thumbup: 

try borrowing a manual boost controller from someone first. or get a kinetics $50 one. 

your hot side is bigger than mine and I held 18 to 17 psi steady for the most part of the rev range, have not tried 20psi

other than that go take it to the track again and show better numbers with no misfires :thumbup:


----------



## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

zoidmk5 said:


> well with that being the only problem, as we all have said before, getting a larger hotside is def. your best bet


The hot side is plenty big. It is either the boost controller, the wg, or my cat. I will swap all of them out next week.


----------



## huichox4 (Nov 8, 2004)

DarkSideGTI said:


> The hot side is plenty big. It is either the boost controller, the wg, or my cat. I will swap all of them out next week.


you can visually inspect the cats with a flashlight, they shoudnt be bad unless you have been running pig rich.

just saying cuz they are expensive


----------



## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

huichox4 said:


> you can visually inspect the cats with a flashlight, they shoudnt be bad unless you have been running pig rich.
> 
> just saying cuz they are expensive


It's an ATP v-banded cat. I am going to have a test pipe made that is the same length as the cat and swap it out.


----------



## huichox4 (Nov 8, 2004)

DarkSideGTI said:


> It's an ATP v-banded cat. I am going to have a test pipe made that is the same length as the cat and swap it out.


that is better 
:thumbup:


----------



## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

So I was trying to figure out my boost issue again. I have pressure tested the system with 25 psi and there were no major leaks. I then pulled my cat out to see if it was clogged or anything. It was nice and clean and I even drove it with the open dp and still nothing. Tonight I combined my 11 psi spring with a 7 psi spring which according to TiAl should give me 18psi on wg pressure. I took it out for a spin and in 2nd gear it pegged 15 psi and did not go any higher. So I tried a 3rd gear pull and it did hit 18 psi but then began to taper slowly. 

While I had the WG out I checked the diaphragm for any tears by blowing in the side port. It inflated, but didn't seem to leak. At this point I am at a loss. I have no boost leaks that I can find. My WG pressure should be a minimum 18 psi. I should be hitting at least 18 psi, I don't get it.


----------



## huichox4 (Nov 8, 2004)

DarkSideGTI said:


> So I was trying to figure out my boost issue again. I have pressure tested the system with 25 psi and there were no major leaks. I then pulled my cat out to see if it was clogged or anything. It was nice and clean and I even drove it with the open dp and still nothing. Tonight I combined my 11 psi spring with a 7 psi spring which according to TiAl should give me 18psi on wg pressure. I took it out for a spin and in 2nd gear it pegged 15 psi and did not go any higher. So I tried a 3rd gear pull and it did hit 18 psi but then began to taper slowly.
> 
> While I had the WG out I checked the diaphragm for any tears by blowing in the side port. It inflated, but didn't seem to leak. At this point I am at a loss. I have no boost leaks that I can find. My WG pressure should be a minimum 18 psi. I should be hitting at least 18 psi, I don't get it.


 so you removed the boost controller out of the loop completely for this test correct? straight line to the wastegate from your boost signal port?


----------



## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

huichox4 said:


> so you removed the boost controller out of the loop completely for this test correct? straight line to the wastegate from your boost signal port?


 I took the ball and spring out of the valve.


----------



## huichox4 (Nov 8, 2004)

DarkSideGTI said:


> I took the ball and spring out of the valve.


 there you will have a leak because the boost controllers have a relief pressure hole in them for the wastegate to leak the air in it and the line from the boost controller. 

otherwise you can hold some pressure between the boost controller and the wastegate could stay partially open


----------



## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

ah yeah, I forgot about that little hole. I dunno if it is big enough to lose 3 psi though. but maybe.


----------



## huichox4 (Nov 8, 2004)

DarkSideGTI said:


> ah yeah, I forgot about that little hole. I dunno if it is big enough to lose 3 psi though. but maybe.


 ohh it releases some good amount of air, I tried blowing in to the hose from the wastegate to the boost controller and it dumps a lot of air, at least in my forge controller.


----------



## R32EEEK (Oct 13, 2004)

considering that's the boost reference line to the wg, and likely to be a small diameter hose to begin with, the small hole could easily bleed off that much. you fix!


----------



## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

R32EEEK said:


> considering that's the boost reference line to the wg, and likely to be a small diameter hose to begin with, the small hole could easily bleed off that much. you fix!


 Well it is better with the ball and spring back in. I'll do some more tests tonight. Also gonna throw some 104 octane in. I'm pretty sure the Uni chip is for 93 octane and we only get 91.


----------

