# My 2017 SEL Coupe (Silk Blue/Titan Black)



## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

On Friday, I took delivery of my 2017 Beetle SEL. Many upgrades planned immediately. 

Upgrades complete:
Porsche 911 Coolant Cap (Porsche 99110645701)
Sport Pedals (VW 1K1064205A)
Nickname Badge (VW 5C0071801D)
Suspension (VWRacing Springs VWR31S000, 034Motorsport Track Density Strut Mounts 034-601-1004-TD, 034Motorsport Bearings 034-601-2000)
Scuff Plates (VW 5C0071303K)
Hartmann Audi RS-6 Replica Wheels - 19x8.5 ET38 (HRS6-091-MA:M)
VW Center Caps (3B7601171XRW), w/O-Ring (Danco #65, Stock No. 35779B, 1 7/8 OD x 1 3/4 ID x 1/16 H)
_General GMax AS-05 Tires_ - 225/40R19 (replaced, too small and no rim protection)
Dunlop Signature HP Tires - 235/40R19 (and is correct size)
ColorLugs Blue Lug Covers
Neuspeed Piggyback Tune (Neuspeed 64.10.14)
SPM MK6 Beetle Street Cat Back Exhaust (removed)
2017 VW Beetle R-Line dual exhaust (5C3-253-609-K), clamp (1K0-253-141-N)
Rear Valance from 2014 Beetle GSR (5C5807521C9 - special order)
Euro Switch (3C8941431ABXSH)
2017 Canadian Classic driving light grills (5C5-854-662-H-ZLL, 5C5-854-661-J-ZLL)
2017 R-Line driving lights (5K0941699G, 5K0941700G)
2017 R-Line driving light mounting screw (N91132901 x2)
R-Line/Dune Spoiler (5C5071641BGRU)

Upgrades to come:
Boost Tap (APR MS100101 ready to install) 
P3Gauges vent gauge instead, now ready to install.
Sport Dead Pedal
Tint
Intake
Paint front grill chrome strip


Not a great pic, but its all I got at the moment.


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## ExtremePowerhouse - Mike (Dec 16, 2016)

Congrats!!

Sub;d for more pictures


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

First mod complete. I had this on my R32 before it was totaled. Porsche 911 coolant expansion tank cap.

Porsche 99110645701


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

Found my existing Ross-Tech VCDS Micro-CAN cable works on the car. Saved all modules and coding to text file. Cursory scan of all long coding options. Several undefined bytes with values other than 0. Going to pull screen shots of all module long code bytes this weekend.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

Ordered some cosmetic goodies, and performance goodies.

Mine's an SEL, and as such doesn't have the gauge pod. I had tried to order an R-Line back in December, but it was a no go from VWOA. Glad I got the SEL anyway because the Silk Blue color is fantastic. I also didn't like the ugly wheel arch trim on the new ones or the color options. The transmission is replaceable if I decide later that I dislike it that much. So far not a big deal.

First up, boost tap for a boost gauge. APR Boost Tap for 1.8T:
http://www.goapr.com/products/boost_tap_20t_ea888_gen3.html

Next, boot gauge. Went with P3Gauges vent gauge (pre-installed in vent):
http://www.p3cars.com/shop/vw/vw-beetle/p3cars-vw-beetle-a5-vent-integrated-digital-interface/

And most importantly fixing the 4x4 mode. VWR (RacingLine) Sport Springs. I had these on my R32 and loved them:
http://www.racingline-performance.com/vwr-sport-springs

I also have several cosmetic items inbound. Most of the order isn't going to get here until later this month. I still need to get out and get some pics.


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## Blue316 (Feb 11, 2016)

Nice color... looking forward to the installation of the aftermarket fog lights with Euro switch.
Blue316


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

P3 Gauges vent gauge arrived. Fast turn around on their part. Preinstalled into vent ordered from VW based on VIN. Looks incredible, can't wait to get it installed.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

More parts arriving. I have a stack in the corner of my office: VW RacingLine Springs, Sport Dead Pedal, Sport Pedals, Neuspeed ECU Tune, Scuff Plates (one scratched in delivery so have to sort that out), APR boost tap, P3 Vent Boost Gauge, Wheel Center Caps, Felt to line the dash pocket (driver side) and armrest and glovebox (items rattling against plastic driving me nuts), and a new badge. I ordered a 3dCarbon small roof spoiler but its not longer being produced, so that got nixed. Looking for strut mounts and bearings, then will have the new springs installed. Then wheels (19"), and tires (235/40R19), and last tint.

And some decent pics finally.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

Sport Pedals installed:

VW 1K1064205A












Kafer badge added:

VW 5C0071801D


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## KCXTWO (Apr 27, 2013)

Very nice! Great choice of springs.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

KCXTWO said:


> Very nice! Great choice of springs.


Thx. Springs go in this week, with 034 Motorsports Track Density strut mounts and new bearings. Pics will follow. Then final decision on wheels/tires.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

*Scuff Plates*

Scuff Plates installed:

VW 5C0071303K - Volkswagen script


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

*VWRacing Springs*

VW Racing springs and 034 Motorsport Track Desnity Srut Mounts installed. More pics to come.

VWRacing Springs VWR31S000
034Motorsport Track Density Strut Mounts 034-601-1004-TD
034Motorsport Bearings 034-601-2000






































This shot is with no miles on them, pre alignment. They are starting to settle some now with a couple of hundred miles on. Once I get 1000 miles on them, I'll put some more pics up.


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## Rottgrub (Dec 5, 2016)

Your images aren't showing up.


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## ravendarat (May 24, 2013)

Well some aren't, most are, at least for me


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

Rottgrub said:


> Your images aren't showing up.


Yeah, not sure what happened. Worked in preview. Ill fix it.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

I havent installed anything new. While I have the NewSpeed tune, APR Boost tap, and P3 Gauge sitting in boxes, Ive held off due to an intermittent issue I'm having with the clock. I dont want to disturb any wiring until its worked out so VW can't deny a warranty claim if needed. The clock will reset sometimes (just the clock, nothing else). At first I thought it was trying to do some satellite update and failing while it was in the garage. then it happened when i literally drove about 6 houses down the street and turned it off. When I turned it on, the clock reset. 

It happened once more while in the garage but I noticed at 7:30a the clock said 1200, which coincided with when I last turned if off (7:30pm). And it just happened again the other day. This time I stopped the car, turned it back on to turn off the AC, then back off (probably not needed, but I'm ocd that way). 4 hours later I left again, and noticed the clock said 0400. 

So, I' fairly convinced its occurring when I shut the car off, but can not replicate it at will. I've been in contact with my dealer, and they have been excellent (well over a decade relationship with them). For records, I've snapped photos when its occurred so I have the exif data to match (rather not match) the clock. And nothing else electrical is effected, and it starts and runs fine without any issue, so no battery, etc. Dealer checked it for loose battery cables at both ends and there wasnt anything wrong.

If anyone has any ideas, please advise.

In other news, I've finalized my wheel choice, and in the process of ordering them (secret until revealed), and pretty much settled on a tire, which I'll order right after the wheels.

Oh, I now have 500+ miles on the VWR springs. The have settled an additional 1/8". If they settle out anything like the ones on my R32, then there is another 1/16" to 1/8" left to settle. I also love how much more behaved the steering is and the road feedback is better. Ride quality is still close to OEM, just a tad stiffer, but still very comfortable.

Initial fender heights (SEL with 235/45R18):

```
FRONT
LEFT             RIGHT
28 1/8"          28 1/4"
28 1/2"          28 1/2"
```
Heights within 20 miles of installation:

```
FRONT
LEFT             RIGHT
26 7/8"          27"
27 3/8"          27 3/8"
```
Heights at 500 miles:

```
FRONT
LEFT             RIGHT
26 3/4"          26 7/8"
27 1/4"          27 1/4"
```


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## Doug French (Apr 25, 2017)

*Wheels...*

Send me a message when you are ready to upgrade your wheels, as I will take the 18" Disks off your hands $$!!! And shorty after that, I will have a set of Turbo 18" for sale $$.


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## ravendarat (May 24, 2013)

Hey question about your P3 gauge, is it just boost or does it do more, their site is a bit conflicting on the info I found for it. I wanna buy one but only if it does the multi gauge stuff as opposed to just boost.


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## Mochrome (Jun 25, 2016)

Ripdubski said:


> I havent installed anything new. While I have the NewSpeed tune, APR Boost tap, and P3 Gauge sitting in boxes, Ive held off due to an intermittent issue I'm having with the clock. I dont want to disturb any wiring until its worked out so VW can't deny a warranty claim if needed. The clock will reset sometimes (just the clock, nothing else). At first I thought it was trying to do some satellite update and failing while it was in the garage. then it happened when i literally drove about 6 houses down the street and turned it off. When I turned it on, the clock reset.
> 
> It happened once more while in the garage but I noticed at 7:30a the clock said 1200, which coincided with when I last turned if off (7:30pm). And it just happened again the other day. This time I stopped the car, turned it back on to turn off the AC, then back off (probably not needed, but I'm ocd that way). 4 hours later I left again, and noticed the clock said 0400.
> 
> ...


Not much help, but wife's 2017 SEL convertible has the same clock issue in that it randomly resets. It's been to the dealer twice and we get the "we can't duplicate the issue" response. It does seem to reset less frequently now.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

ravendarat said:


> Hey question about your P3 gauge, is it just boost or does it do more, their site is a bit conflicting on the info I found for it. I wanna buy one but only if it does the multi gauge stuff as opposed to just boost.


You can get it either way, I had to order it via email/phone (cant remember) because boost only wasn't indexed on the site. I went with just boost. It was cheaper and I don't need the other stuff. Itching to get it installed.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

Mochrome said:


> Not much help, but wife's 2017 SEL convertible has the same clock issue in that it randomly resets. It's been to the dealer twice and we get the "we can't duplicate the issue" response. It does seem to reset less frequently now.


I should have used multi-quote. Oh well. Thats good to know. I'll let my service manager know its not just me. He did tell me they had a Jetta with the same issue, but it was found to be a loose negative battery cable at the chassis.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

Well, pushing wheel purchase out until 1st week of July. Going to wait and see if there is any sale or shipping offers.


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## Mochrome (Jun 25, 2016)

Ripdubski said:


> Well, pushing wheel purchase out until 1st week of July. Going to wait and see if there is any sale or shipping offers.


Have you completed any more mods since your last post? Especially curious about exhaust and wheels


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## lgfaver (Dec 26, 2013)

What tunes, other than the one you mentioned, are available for the the 2017 beetle w/ tiptronic automatic transmission ? I have a 17 Dune btw.


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## stevehayes01 (Aug 5, 2005)

lgfaver said:


> What tunes, other than the one you mentioned, are available for the the 2017 beetle w/ tiptronic automatic transmission ? I have a 17 Dune btw.


Should be APR and Unitronic for ECU flash and JB1 and JB4 and Neuspeed for the piggybacks so far from what I have researched.


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## lgfaver (Dec 26, 2013)

I posted on the specific apr thread for this engine and was told they did not have anything for these upgrades turbo engines. Anyone have more info on this ? I rly wanna tune my car. I miss the performance of the gti mk7 I had.


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## Rottgrub (Dec 5, 2016)

lgfaver said:


> I posted on the specific apr thread for this engine and was told they did not have anything for these upgrades turbo engines. Anyone have more info on this ? I rly wanna tune my car. I miss the performance of the gti mk7 I had.


I'd call APR directly, and have them look up your computer, rather than trust something this specific to a forum thread.


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## lgfaver (Dec 26, 2013)

So I called an official APR dealer here in dallas and they said they did have a way to flash the ECU for the 2017 beetle. They quoted me $720 everything included. They said it was something super fast and told me they did not charge to remove/reflash for dlr visits.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

Mochrome said:


> Have you completed any more mods since your last post? Especially curious about exhaust and wheels


Not yet. I was away for a bit. Today I ordered wheels. Deciding on tires tonight/tomorrow. Looking at General GMAX AS-05, and Falken FK450 A/S. The stock Hankooks on the car are either really noisy, or the car is noisy. I drove it 300 miles a little over a month ago on a day trip, all highway, between two states. On concrete the noise became an unbearable aural assault. If its the car, then Dynamat will have to be applied to the rear. I'm hoping the new tires will be a lot quieter. The problem I have in deciding is that no two sites have comparisons for all the tires I'm interested in (not just the two above), so the ratings are useless for a comparison between them. The GMAX are far superior all around to the Hankook Kinergy GTs (on the car now) based on TireRack (not purchaser) review. I've also looked at the BFG G-Force Comp 2 A/S (slightly noisy), Dunlop Signature HP, Yokohama Advan Sport A/S (poor wet performance), and Michelin Primacy MXM4 (pricey).

To add to the dilemma, tire size is of concern. The wheel I ordered is 19x8.5 ET38. The stock 18" Disc is 19x8 ET48. The new wheel will stick out 16mm further overall. I think the Canyon (Dune) is et44 if any Dune owner is reading. The fitment of the wheel is fine I think because the Montery (20x9 is et48) which is 13mm further out from the 18x8 Disc's, so 3mm difference. I've also seen Beetles on 20x9 et40 which is 21mm further out. I'm looking at 3 sizes. I'd like to stay at 235, but that limits my tire options to the Falken, Yokohama, and Michelin - not that the Falken is bad (it is one my contending choices). I'm concerned that a 245/40 may cause rubbing issues because the tire will be about .3" taller overall, but I like the width which looks nice and meaty. The 225 should have no issues AFAIK, as it is about .3" shorter overall. On a 8.5" wheel the 225 won't look much different than the 235 on an 8" wheel, measuring in at 8.9" compared to the 235 at 9.3" (section width).

Right now, the rear wheel gap is 1" top of tire to bottom of fender, and the front is .75". Increasing the tire height will reduce that which might look better, but I really don't want any rubbing since the new wheel will push it closer to the fender.

Decisions, decisions...

I've talked to Borla and they say the 1.8T exhaust isn't available (yet), and the 2.0T won't fit, though I'm not sure of the latter. From what I can tell, the routing is the same underneath. I measured the piping on mine and its 2.5", which is the same as what their 2.0T kit is. I'm half tempted just to order it and see if it fits, if all else fails I can have a muffler shop make it fit.














lgfaver said:


> What tunes, other than the one you mentioned, are available for the the 2017 beetle w/ tiptronic automatic transmission ? I have a 17 Dune btw.


Pretty sure thats the same engine and transmission as I have. The APR tune is a better choice power wise, but will push the power to the limits of the automatic (non DSG) at 258 ft lbs, so I went with the Neuspeed which ends up about 20 less iirc. I haven't installed it yet. I was trying to resolve the wonky clock issue before doing anything that might void electronics warranty.


And I need more current pics as I think the suspension has settled pretty much where its going to be. Car has 2400 miles on it now.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

Wheels arrived today (early)! Wasn't home. FedEx just left them in my driveway.  Luckily I wasn't gone long. 19 x 8.5 ET38. Test fitted one up front. Only about .5" clearance between inner rim and strut. Outer rim, pretty much flush or just inside fender. Talked to tire guy about tires I want. He told me the fronts wont fit, but I don't believe him as I've seen the wheel fitment thread, and other builds. After a lot of thought I think I'm going with 225/40. The new wheels are only 1.1 lbs lighter than the stock 18" disc, but hey 4.4 lbs is 4.4 lbs. 225 tire I'm looking at is 3.5 lighter than stock Hankook, so theres another 14 lbs gone. Will order tires Monday.

Willtheyfit has gotten a lot of usage by me as well as 1010 tires calculators. Good tools for anyone else looking at wheel/tire fitment. Once I get them installed, I'll get some pics up.

So at 19x8.5 ET38 running 225/40, lowered (but not as low as others - I have .75" inches up front, and 1" in the rear), I think it should fit fine with no mods - correct? Anyone know?


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

Tires ordered. Went with General GMAX AS-05 in 225/40R19. They get installed Tuesday.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

*Wheels and Tires installed*

Wheels and tires installed Tuesday. This is the first chance I've had to post. Tires are a hair smaller in diameter than I thought by 1/8". Still happy with the outcome though. I think the choice of the General GMax AS05 was the right one, instead of the Falken FK450, though the Falken would have been pretty much the exact size of the stock wheel/tire combo. 

The wheels are Hartmann Audi RS-6 reps, 19x8.5 ET38. At full droop the backside of the rim is about .5" away from the strut. The tires are 225/40R19.

With the tires on, turning clearance is plenty at the front of the wheel well. The back is close, but clears with about 1/4", maybe a tad more. 

These pics will have to do until I get a chance to shoot it with the DSLR.

I removed the Disc wheel covers before heading to the shop. Looking a little sporty and a little utilitarian:









First one mounted and ready for test fitment:









Back after the install:









3/4 shot returning to it at grocery parking lot:










BTW, these tires are MUCH quieter than the stock Hankook Kinergy GT's. On good road I can now only hear wind against the windshield. Steering is much more responsive as well.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

*ColorLugs*

Installed blue ColorLugs over the stock lug nuts.

ColorLugs: https://www.colorlugs.com/products/boltcap-17-19mm?variant=30798656387

Rear pic. Wheel gap looks large, but its how its parked on the driveway:









Closeup, wheel has some grass clips on it:


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

Sorry about the broken links. Fixed. Google Photos needs some work. It makes me share it multiple times before they become available for some reason.


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## lgfaver (Dec 26, 2013)

question, what intake do you have in your car? I wanna get one as I am thinking about getting my Dune tuned. 
What would be a good place/site to look? 

Thanks!


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

No intake yet. I've looked at the APR http://www.goapr.com/products/intake_pq35.html


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## Mochrome (Jun 25, 2016)

Looking good!


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

Finally got around to a good cleaning and some good pics. Once I get 500 miles on the tires, I'll install the Neuspeed piggyback tune. Another tank of gas should put me there. Since these tires are slightly (.25" smaller diameter) than stock, I want to see how they impact gas mileage before doing anything else. These shots have the ColorLugs covers installed too.

























































Full gallery:
https://goo.gl/photos/F2N5a8BC58R2tWNy6


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

And here is the crappy photoshop I did comparing the 3 wheel choices I was interested in:


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## Mochrome (Jun 25, 2016)

How's the overall ride quality with your 19" setup vs stock 18" wheel / tire combo?


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

Mochrome said:


> How's the overall ride quality with your 19" setup vs stock 18" wheel / tire combo?


I didnt notice much difference between the stock 18s with 235/45's and the 19's with 225/40's. I noticed the most difference when putting the new springs and strut mounts in. It is still VERY comfortable, yet provides better road feedback. I love the way it rides now.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

I forgot to mention that the center caps spun freely in the wheel center. The wheel center bore is ~1mm or less different than the center cap. I solved the issue by interweaving an o-ring around the clips. Now they don't spin freely, but can still be coerced to spin by hand. They haven't changed position since I installed them. 

O-Ring is Danco 35779B (SKU 0-37155-35779-6). It's a #65 ring sized at 1 7/8" OD x 1 3/4 ID x 1/16 H. It was about .50 cents at Ace Hardware.

Here are a couple of pics of how its wrapped.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

Stack of parts waiting to be installed. GSR rear valance is in the garage and will be installed once I get new exhaust.










17 R-line fog grills were hard to source, but finally came in, and painted to boot. When this tank of gas is gone, the Neuspeed piggyback tune goes in.


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## Mochrome (Jun 25, 2016)

Have you installed the Neuspeed module and/or an exhaust system yet?


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

Mochrome said:


> Have you installed the Neuspeed module and/or an exhaust system yet?


Yeah, actually this past Sunday afternoon. Took about 40 minutes to install because I'm picky and was meticulous about harness routing and module placement. The pictures they show are not from a Beetle. You can likely do it in less time, I just took my time.

The location they say to mount the module is on the front of the fuse block plastic casing. It will fit, but it is very very tight there. The Golfs and Jettas may have a bit more room. I didn't want the module wedged in there, vibrating or otherwise knocking around while driving, and scratching the paint. So I mounted it to the side of the stock air box (where the filter is). The Velcro they supplied didn't stick very well to the plastic, and I did clean it with alcohol before, so I used some Velcro I had on hand. When I used their Velcro then pulled the module off, the velcro came with it. With what I used, it stays in place as expected.

The instructions say it takes about 10 miles for the ECU to adjust. I think it started adapting sooner. I noticed more power when I pulled out of the neighborhood. I took it on a 20 mile jaunt. I varied the speed for the first 10 miles and used different throttle inputs. The last 10 miles, I had fun with it. 

Since then, I've driven it on some routine routes. One involves a small valley. Guessing this is about 300/400 ft elevation difference. Improvement here. 

I run 93 octane gas. The module has settings for 91 (premium) and 100 (race). The 91 setting increases boost by 4 psi. The 100 setting increases it by 6 psi. To use 100, I would need to add octane booster. On 87 gas, the 1.8T makes 170 HP / 184 TQ. With 93 that increases to 191 HP / 203 TQ. The Nuespeed increase is 35 HP / 35 TQ, for a net total of 224 HP / 238 TQ. The lame 6 spd automatic transmission (not DSG) they put in the 17's is only rated for 258 TQ (foot lbs). When I get an exhaust I expect the power to raise just a hair, and I'm done.

Impressions:
- Off idle, there isn't a large increase, though you can definitely tell there is more power on tap.
- Around 2700 rpm, it really wakes up pulls much harder.
- You can hear the turbo spooling now. It was very feint before. Its still quiet enough you can hear the radio and passengers without issue.
- Going uphill (the valley I mentioned), it doesn't kick down to a lower gear any more. It holds the 45/50 mpg speed with only minimal throttlle input.
- The transmission stinks for performance. Shifts under full throttle can feel hard as it takes it time to switch gears. You'll get some head bob from your passengers. DSG would be a much better "auto" for this car. R owners wont have this issue. The DSG in my R32 was butter smooth and lightning fast under the same conditions.
- Driving in traffic is much the same, with no real difference in lazy driving.

The Neuspeed chart is for a 2.0. It shows 2500 rpm before there is really any difference in power. You can feel an increase (not full) at lower rom (1500 to 2000), and you can really feel it at 3000 and above. So I'm not sure the chart is exactly the same for the 1.8T, but it is probably similar.

It's too early to tell, but I think the gas mileage has gone UP slightly - based on Avg consumption display that I've been watching regularly. I also track mileage using Fuelly. The previous two tanks on the car were driven with purpose. First one was driven to accentuate gas mileage. The second one was driven spirited. I filled the the tank prior to installing the module. I'm driving this tank spirited as well, and will follow it up with mileage oriented fill up. This way I will have a good idea of what gains/losses have been introduced.

I'll post some pics of the installation sometime in the next few days.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

I had to return the 17 R-Line fog grills as they wont fit. They are about .5" taller. If you look at the bumper there is a small lip that is not present on the R-Line bumper which the R-Line grills fill up. You could probably make them fit if you want to trim the bumper - I don't.

The Dune grills will NOT fit, and they have a honeycomb design that wont match the middle grill which has 3 bars across it. They are the same height as the 17 R-Line. The previous years R-Line's will fit, but they only have 2 bars across them and different locations than the middle grills bars, which would make it look funny IMHO. The previous years R-Lines also have chrome trime around the turn signal portion which I don't want. 

I found the 17 Canadian Classic model has 3 bar fog light grills that match the 3 bars of the middle grill. It also comes with black trim instead of chrome:










These were pretty hard to locate part #'s for, and took even longer to source then the 17 R-Line grills.

I also have the lights themselves, screws, headlight switch with Off/Auto/Park/On and fogs with silver trim; and the retrofit wiring harness.

The harness says not to use it on Xenon equipped vehicles (halogen only) or have major electrical damage. After testing the harness connections with an ohmmeter and scrutinizing the installation guide, I see how its working, and how it can be adapted so it won't cause any problems. The problem is how the harness draws and supplies power through the relay. it should be simple enough to draw from a fused line direct to the battery instead, while still using the factory switch. 

I tried to get a lighting harness from a previous year R-Line, but if the vehicle comes equipped with fogs, they are integrated into the engine harness with the other lighting - at least thats what the VW tech says, and that engine is the 2.0. VW will not offer any connection tips for the adapter harness. I suspect the Canadian Classic model (which has Xenon, Fogs and 1.8) might work, but would require the entire harness replacement. I just saw the 18 SE with Premium includes Xenon, 1.8t and foglights as well (with cornering illumination).

I'll post updates later, complete with parts and details.


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## Mochrome (Jun 25, 2016)

Seems nothing is ever simple with these cars 😫


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## 5309 (Dec 11, 2002)

Do you have any before and after pics of the side view of the suspension setup? Also where did u purchase the springs? How are the stock struts handling? I wonder if these wheels in 17 will look good just don't want to swap to a bigger wheel car is driven 50-60 round trip for work daily. I have. A 2014.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

5309 said:


> Do you have any before and after pics of the side view of the suspension setup? Also where did u purchase the springs? How are the stock struts handling? I wonder if these wheels in 17 will look good just don't want to swap to a bigger wheel car is driven 50-60 round trip for work daily. I have. A 2014.



There are a couple of pics in the thread from before and after the spring install on the same stock wheels/tires in the same spot in my driveway, but the springs had not settled yet. Over the course of about 500 miles the springs settled in another .25". If you can't find them, let me know. I lied. I don't see the, only the before after from the wheels. I'll look for some and post.

The springs are VW Racing springs. They drop about 1.5" overall. I think they are roughly 10% stiffer than stock. They are designed to use the stock struts. They carry a VW part #, and if installed by the dealer, retain the warranty. +++ In my opinion, they improve the ride quite nicely. But I don't like the buick feel, so your mileage may vary. I paid $285 for them from either ECS or direct (I don't remember, but the price was the same). The part # is VWR31S000. At the same time I installed the 034 Motorsport Track Density Mounts (~45% stiffer rubber). These were $125. I got them from 034 direct with new bearings. Part # 034-601-1004-TD. Between the two, the steering feels crisper.

For the wheel size question. I don't like to give cosmetic advise to people, thats a decision you have to make.


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## Bayindir's (Apr 15, 2017)

the application is very successful :thumbup:


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## silverspeedbuggy (Aug 8, 2001)

Ripdubski said:


> Finally got around to a good cleaning and some good pics. Once I get 500 miles on the tires, I'll install the Neuspeed piggyback tune. Another tank of gas should put me there. Since these tires are slightly (.25" smaller diameter) than stock, I want to see how they impact gas mileage before doing anything else. These shots have the ColorLugs covers installed too.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Your car looks AMAZING. The wheels and ride height are perfect. This is what the R-Line/Turbo model should have looked like from the beginning. Wow.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

silverspeedbuggy said:


> Your car looks AMAZING. The wheels and ride height are perfect. This is what the R-Line/Turbo model should have looked like from the beginning. Wow.


Thx!


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

Ordered SPM Street cat-back exhaust on Black Friday with 20% off. This one is the 3 muffler system. FedEx had an error where the barcode was mangled. Its all sorted out now, and should be here 12/18. Hoping its not too loud. Will post video once installed. 

I still need to install the driving lights and grills too. Went out of town, then it got cold. So waiting for a bit of warm up.


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## Enricovw (Oct 20, 2017)

Nice, nice and nice opcorn:


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

SPM MK6 Beetle Street Cat Back exhaust installed today. Last night I removed the single exit rear valance with the chrome strip. Pretty easy to do, except for the middle two clips which are hard to reach and disengage when laying on the ground under the car. I was worried about tip and hanger alignment after seeing some youtube videos, but the system bolted up and is aligned perfectly. The tips look massive with the valance off. 

Stock system (one piece) off car:









SPM installed and single outlet valance removed:









Back home ground level view (minus valance):









14 GSR rear valance installed. The clips line up perfectly in the 17 bumper. Its actaully harder to installed than getting the old one off due to the bumper flexing when pushing the tabs in. I had to reach from the back side and push out while pushing the valance tabs in. The outermost tabs are the hardest to get clipped, but will go with some finesse. No mods needed:









Side view showing how far the tips extend:










Here is a video of the car accelerating with the stock exhaust (in cabin):





Here is a video of the car accelerating with the SPM exhaust (in cabin):





Overall it is fairly quiet, no much louder than stock at idle or when cruising steady (no load, no decelleration). Under load its still not too loud. You can easily talk and hear music, and it sounds really nice. The only thing I'm not terribly excited about is the introduction of some resonant vibration under load and decelleration. That said, it does not drone that I have noticed yet. And I think part of this problem is the Beetle has virtually no sound deadedning in the rear. I may put some dynamat in to help. The car does seem a tad bit quicker to accelerate as well.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

I also installed the Euro headlight switch. Not sure why I waited so long since it only takes a second. I like to drive with the park/running lights on during the day, now I can. And it has a provision for the driving lights. I'm going to try and tackle those in the next couple of weeks.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

12/1: I had mine at the dealer on 12/1 so they could reflash the firmware. 

12/19: Still no re-occurrences or clock reset. I asked the dealer what exactly they updated. The firmware update was applied to the Infotainment system with the tech note stating it fixed a bunch of bugs.

For reference, my infotainment details:
Part #: 5C0035684B
Hardware: H31
Software version: 0359


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## michaelodonnell123 (Nov 17, 2017)

Those are some pretty nice mods. Thanks for posting.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

Update on the firmware fix. It's not fixed. Clock reset sometime Friday night. Noticed it was off yesterday.


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## Enricovw (Oct 20, 2017)

Ripdubski said:


> On Friday, I took delivery of my 2017 Beetle SEL. Many upgrades planned immediately.
> 
> Upgrades complete:
> Porsche 911 Coolant Cap (Porsche 99110645701)
> ...


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

The euro switch part number is listed in post 1, I think you saw it. Its a direct fit for the 17. No coding or any modification. Just plug it in.


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## Enricovw (Oct 20, 2017)

Ripdubski said:


> The euro switch part number is listed in post 1, I think you saw it. Its a direct fit for the 17. No coding or any modification. Just plug it in.



Thanks for the reply, but was auto-switch purchased from a VW dealer or another source (if other source can you share)? Thanks again!


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

Sorry I missed that part. With the part #, the source is irrelevant. I got mine from ECS Tuning.


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## Enricovw (Oct 20, 2017)

Ripdubski said:


> Sorry I missed that part. With the part #, the source is irrelevant. I got mine from ECS Tuning.


....thank you :thumbup:


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## Enricovw (Oct 20, 2017)

Enricovw said:


> ....thank you :thumbup:


sorry for being more picky, but two more questions? Was your model beetle already equipped with the light sensor (less auto-switch) and you only purchased the auto-switch, OR the part number that you specified comes with the light sensor wiring that needs to placed by the windscreen? Again thanks.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

Enricovw said:


> sorry for being more picky, but two more questions? Was your model beetle already equipped with the light sensor (less auto-switch) and you only purchased the auto-switch, OR the part number that you specified comes with the light sensor wiring that needs to placed by the windscreen? Again thanks.


Mine is SEL, it already had the AUTO lights. A similar switch exists for cars without auto.


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## Enricovw (Oct 20, 2017)

Ripdubski said:


> Mine is SEL, it already had the AUTO lights. A similar switch exists for cars without auto.


Got it and thanks!:thumbup:


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

Soooo. Its been a while. With the cold weather gone Im ready to start back up on the mods.

After a few months and about 2000 miles I decided the the SPM exhaust was too noisy (in cabin) driving around town in stop and go traffic. Mainly when under low to medium load. It does, however, sound incredible under WOT! It is also amply quiet while cruising.

I got a 2017 R-Line rear muffler (5C3-253-609-K). Today I installed it with the stock mid muffler (front portion). This required cutting the pipe between the mid and read muffler of the stock exhaust since it's all one piece. To bolt the new R-Line muffler I used VW clamp (1K0-253-141-N) which is the same as the front clamp. The muffler came with a small bend in the inlet pipe which forced me to cut off about 1.5". All can be seen here:










After a couple of hours it was all done. Everything aligned pretty much perfectly (within 1/8" on the left exit):









The tip could stand to be a bit bigger, but I like the thickness of the lip as opposed to the SPM. I also thought the SPM tips should have been a bit smaller (ignore the pollen):









It sounds similar to a GTI now, but a little more muted, which might be because of the stock mid muffler. IDK. It feels a bit more torquey, and it seems the slight increase in throttle response I saw with the SPM is gone, or back to the stock level. Smaller pipes and more restriction. I drove it around a bit. Overall it is much quieter and very tolerable around town now in traffic, basically a tick louder than stock.


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## Rotkaefer (Feb 25, 2018)

Ripdubski said:


> I also installed the Euro headlight switch. Not sure why I waited so long since it only takes a second. I like to drive with the park/running lights on during the day, now I can. And it has a provision for the driving lights. I'm going to try and tackle those in the next couple of weeks.


I'm looking forward to this upgrade.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

Rotkaefer said:


> I'm looking forward to this upgrade.


There is one side effect, but its minor. When driving with the running lights only, the dash lights are no longer on which makes the instrumental cluster a bit dark. I'm hoping there is a setting to change that with VCDS. I just need some time to poke around.


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## p3yro (Apr 8, 2009)

did you sell the SPM?


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

The SPM will be put up for sale very soon.

A TSB was released to address the clock reset issue. Primarily effecting SEL's. I had that TSB performed (flash), a week ago Monday. Will watch for resets.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

*Driving lights and grills*

Lazy winter, busy summer = not much done recently.

Finally got around to installing the driving lights with Canadian grills that have the black trim (instead of chrome). Finding the part #'s for the Canadian grills was a little difficult, sourcing took a little longer than normal as well. The grills are from the 2017 Canadian Classic model.

Grill part numbers (left and right):
5C5-854-662-H-ZLL 
5C5-854-661-J-ZLL

Driving lights (left and right) (includes bulb) (from 17 R-Line):
5K0941699G
5K0941700G

Driving light mounting screw (need 2) (from 17 R-Line):
N91132901

17 SEL bumper is all ready to receive the lights. Installation is easy. Pop grills out from the center of the car and work outward. Insert light and screw it in. Put on new grill. Wiring is another story. I'll have another post on wiring in the future.


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## Bayindir's (Apr 15, 2017)

@ripdubski 


Tapatalk kullanarak iPhone aracılığıyla gönderildi


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## p3yro (Apr 8, 2009)

They look good. Nice retro fit


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## Dan00Hawk (Jun 22, 2013)

I just bought a used Neuspeed 64.10.14 to install on my wife's Silk Blue 2017 'vert this weekend. Thanks for the writeup earlier in the thread. Any long term impressions/concerns/suggestions now that you've had it on the car for awhile? Making sure she only used 93 octane and doesn't accidentally fill up with 87 is my biggest concern. Might need to put a warning sticker on her gas cap!


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

Nothing really for an update. It's much more drivable over stock. I've done a few tanks back to back entirely in S mode vs D mode. This effects gas mileage negatively about 4 mpg for my driving.
Around April/May I had it in for oil, and the dealer applied an ECU fix related to emissions. This seems to have cut back on responsiveness ever so slightly - just enough to notice while in D. 

I did put new tires on it. The 225/40R19's were too low profile and exposed the wheel rims as the first line of damage should I rub, which I haven't. I saw Dunlop had a special run of 235/40R19 Signature HP's and ordered them. The ride is much better now and the tires rim protector sticks out about .25" which puts me at ease. The height difference is about .3" taller over all as well which helps eliminate some more wheel gap, still no rubbing. As a bonus, the speedodometer is no longer off (was .7% slower). I haven't posted this yet, but will soon when I get some time.

I still get looks all over. Came out from Target one day and a guy was standing and slowly walking around checking it out.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

I need to get pics up with the new tires. I also have the GSR/Dune spoiler thats about to go in for paint. Been sitting on it deciding what colors to paint where. The bottom will be blue, and I'll have the lip part painted anthracite to match the wheels. Anyone know how it attaches? I'm assuming its 3M tape, and it looks like one bolt in the center.

I also have the low tone horn and bracket now. Just need a free weekend to install.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

*Spoiler Removal*

Anyone considering removing the SEL spoiler from a 2017+ should be aware it is bolted, glued, and taped on. It is a major PITA to remove, and most likely will not come off in one piece. If your goal is to just remove it, know that there will be damage when done. A body shop will tell you the same thing. If you want a smooth hatch, just have them do it all. If your going to replace the SEL spoiler with an R-Line/Dune spoiler, read on.

Honestly, think twice before going down this path if you are thinking of DIY, or at least understand the work and expense your getting into. It isn't easy or fun, though the end result is nice.

You will also need some nylon pry tools, an eraser wheel, a drill (with speed control a plus), a whizzy blade (plastic razor blades), bandages for your hands and knuckles, and a whole lot of patience. 

This is what is being taken off:









Start by removing the lower trim panel on the inside of the rear gate. You can see where the clips are below, and there are 2 screws in the grab handles that must be removed first. Putting this back on is a huge PITA too. It is VERY difficult to get it lined up where the slide hooks on the side pieces are and the catches on the upper part of the gate by the glass. I had to removed both side pieces. Putting those back in also proved difficult without removing the upper center piece. Bottom line, remove it all. Bottom, top, then sides. When you put it back together, start with the bottom, then the sides, then the top piece.









Now you can see 6 nuts spread across circular openings in the inside of the rear gate. Remove them. Dont worry, the wing isn't going to fall. It is still VERY secure. But your mileage may vary so have someone hold it in case.









Now the fun begins. Wear some eye protection in case plastic bits splinter and fly. Use nylon pry tools at the bottom edge of the spoiler, and top edge of the spoiler. Note that the top edge will be against the bottom edge of the glass so be very careful to not use too much pressure. Also be careful of prying against the metal gate as you can and likely will leave some minor dents. Pry underneath the spoiler toward the outermost edges, not in the center of the car. Dont worry too much as the R-Line/Dune spoiler is deeper and will cover any so long as they dont extent too far below the SEL one (about an 1"). I ended up with some small dipple like dents in this area, but the new spoiler completely covers it.

Once you get the outer most edge lifted (this is where its taped), you can shove a nylon spade horizontally between the spoiler and the small lip on the gate that is is glued to (see later pics of it removed to understand). 

With the spade inserted, pull up on the spoiler while pushing/pulling the spade toward the center to cut the adhesive glue. If your lucky the spoiler will start coming off, and will likely crack and break in the process. Once mine cracked, I popped the entire top part off (aka broke), then I was able to access the bolt carriers and remove them so they would damage the paint should any part dangle or pull out and try to pop back in from pressure and miss the hole:


















Without fear of the metal bolts contacting the paint during removal, keep working on pulling the spoiler off. I would stop prying with a tool from underneath about 10" from the outermost edge as the R-Line/Dune spoiler curves up at about that point to clear the brake light. Now you just have to brute force pull it up. There is a 2" section of glue above the brake light (on each of the sides). You can pull, use the nylon spade to cut through the adhesive, and eventually you'll make it all the way across. And it will leave a hell of a mess of adhesive residue on the car.

Here you can see it's just been removed, with bits of spoiler still attached. You can also see minute dents in the gate. And you can also see the small lip where the adhesive is as well as the mounting holes and guide holes. The paint looks worse than it is. This is before cleaning and polishing. There was a lot of dust/road grime behind the spoiler:









Use the spade to trim off the big pieces if any is left. Now use the whizzy blade to shave the adhesive as close the metal as you can. You can get quite a bit. I went through almost 20 blades. They dull/bend very quickly and become ineffective, but they work very well. Once all the big stuff is off, use the erase wheel with the drill and erase what's left. You will want to be careful not to spin to fast and not spend too much time in one spot. If a spot is troublesome, return to it repeatedly ensuring it doesn't get too hot. Eventually you'll get 95% of it off. You want as much off as possible so the new adhesive will bond correctly.

Now is a good time to polish the paint, and wax it (except for the lip where the adhesive will go). 

What's left of the SEL spoiler:


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

*R-Line Spoiler Install*

My spoiler did not come with the mounting bolts pre-installed. I don't know why. Further, there is no way to put them in. If you buy one, it will make life a lot easier if it comes with them preinstalled. Ask the supplier when ordering. I didn't realize at the time it could come without, or that this would be an issue.

Here is mine, part #5C5071641BGRU, after getting it back from paint shop. I had the lower portion painted to match the car Silk Blue Metallic (LD5L), and the upper portion Anthracite Metallic (L94F - from a 2014 Golf R) which matches the wheels very nicely. Here you can also see no pre-installed bolts! If your comparing to the stock one, it also is missing 3 guide pins molded into the plastic which insert into the hatch. I plugged the receiving guide holes on the rear gate with JB Weld as well so water wouldn't leak in.




























Ready to install? You need some 3M body panel tape (about 6"), two JB Weld "Plastic" adhesives (the black and white one), and 1/4" wide 1/8" thick high density foam weatherstrip (about 2 to 3 ft). If your lucky enough to have preinstalled bolts, your ready to proceed. If not, you need some improv. Mine didn't. I needed to improvise. I got some 3/16" Toggler bolts. These insert through a hole, toggle the slide to make it flush against the back, the push the guide down some plastic zip ties, and finally break off the trailing sections of zip tie. This leaves just the guide hole visible and the securing metal tabs flush against the back side. You also need some half inch washers with 3/16" center holes. These will be used from the inside when securing the spoiler. Also in preparation, the bolts for the Togglers are too long for the two center positions (the spoiler is too shallow here), so either buy 2 shorter bolts, or cut off about 1" of two bolts and de-burr them. Prep each of the bolts by adding a washer to each one. 

Add about 3" of the 3M tape to the other edges of the spoiler (vertically, you can see the spot where it goes), leave the red tape on the exposed side for now. Apply 2" strips of the 1/8" high density foam across the spoiler and around the bolt holes - mimicking where they were on the SEL spoiler. You can see the flat spots where they go on the new spoiler as well. Do not extend them to the part of the spoiler that will sit on the lip of the gate (next to where the adhesive goes). You can see the adhesive channels along the inner edge. In these pics I had the HD foam extended too far, and trimmed it before installation after test fitting and realizing it wouldn't sit flush enough. In short you dont want it to push the spoiler up - you want the adhesive to contact the lip. You can also see in the pics I tried re-using the foam O rings on the old spoiler. I ended up just pulling these off and replacing them with new HD foam before installation.



















This pic shows somewhat where the HD foam will be. Note the Togglers are not installed here (out of order pic), and the O ring foam I replaced with new foam after installing the Togglers:









And yeah, thats a blanket with an early picture of my car. Christmas gift from my daughter!

The rest will be easier with two people, possibly three. I wouldn't do it alone. 

Test align the spoiler to the car. Practice positioning it from the adhesive lip down - you dont want the tape to stick first and end up trying to pull it away and leave a mess of adhesive. From a 45 degree angle, put each outer point of the spoiler at the bottom of the glass and then turn the spoiler horizontally. You'll also want to note the left/right positioning so the lower edge aligns with gate edge. I practiced several times with 2 sets of hands. Once comfortable with the procedure and final location, mark the top edges and bottom edges with painters tape. 

From here on out you are committed to completing the installation! If your not ready, stop, and practice some more. If you're just not comfortable, have a body shop or the dealer do the rest. The only problem with that is if yours did not come with the mounting bolts installed. When I talked to the dealer, they were just going to glue it on. I wasn't comfortable with that even thought that adhesive is firmly bonded once cured.

Work quickly from this point on, as the adhesive starts setting up in 15m. Once applied to the spoiler, you have less than 10 minutes (probably closer to 6 or 7) to get the spoiler in place and at least 2 of the bolts secured. A third pair of hands sitting inside the car ready to screw in bolts may help. One we had it in place, I jumped in and did this while the other hands held it in place. The 3M tape will assist here to prevent movement.

Mix both containers of JB Weld, keep mixing it for about 5 minutes until it starts getting toothpaste like consistency. Once is starts to get where it will hold its shape (not runny), start applying it to the adhesive channels on the spoiler. With 2 people you can work in tandem on both sides to reduce risk of it setting up while applying. You will want the adhesive to be about as thick as toothpaste in the channel (1/4") at least. You'll use about all of one and about 75% of the other JB Weld.

Once you get the JB Weld applied, quickly remove the backing from the 3M tape, then position the spoiler on the car using the practiced method and ensuring you hit your alignment tape. Push in on the outer edges to get the 3M tape to grab. Have one person push in from the back, and down along the inner lip, while the other climbs in and inserts the middle screw on each side. Use thread locker on the bolts. If the bolts were numbered 1 through 6 from left to right, that means #2 and #5. Do NOT over tighten or you can stretch/crack/break the plastic! This is especially important if you end up using Togglers like I did. You do not want the plastic to break. Then install #1 and #6 (outer most). Then install the #3 and #4 (the inner most ones, and these should be the short bolts).

Let it sit for 30m so the adhesive sets up completely. I let it sit overnight. I put some E6000 epoxy glue on the outer bolt head/washer/gate (not in the screw head), just to help ensure they dont back out from vibration.

After purchase, paint, cleanup and installation products, I'm into the conversion about $830, and VERY happy with the result.

All done:


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

*Glamour shots*


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## NewBeatle (Dec 5, 2019)

Ripdubski said:


> Sport Pedals installed:
> 
> VW 1K1064205A
> 
> ...


Hi ...

Good picture.
Could you give a brief overview of the pedal replacement procedure and difficulty?
What is its profanity rating? ( Scale is 0 to constant ).

Thanks.


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

NewBeatle said:


> Hi ...
> 
> Good picture.
> Could you give a brief overview of the pedal replacement procedure and difficulty?
> ...


IIRC, the gas pedal just unbolts and unplugs, then replace with the new one. For the brake, the cover comes off and the new one goes on. I think it took less than 10 minutes, with 0 profanity.


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## ThatBlueBeetle (May 13, 2018)

Ripdubski said:


>


Hooooooooooly smokes, that is one STUNNINGLY gorgeous bug!!

VERY very well done, sir; I applaud your build!! Thanks for sharing!


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

ThatBlueBeetle said:


> Hooooooooooly smokes, that is one STUNNINGLY gorgeous bug!!
> 
> VERY very well done, sir; I applaud your build!! Thanks for sharing!


Thank you!

Tint, finally getting the boost tap and P3 gauge installed, and the low tone horn are next. Not in any particular order. I have all the parts, just need the time and energy.


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## lacr2000 (May 13, 2009)

That's a very nicely done Bug! Very sharp-looking!
Thanks for sharing!


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## chris89topher (Jun 4, 2008)

Wowza! I have never lusted after a Beetle before, until seeing this blue one. Nice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Dan00Hawk (Jun 22, 2013)

Damn that looks absolutely fantastic! Well done!:thumbup:


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## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

lacr2000 said:


> That's a very nicely done Bug! Very sharp-looking!
> Thanks for sharing!





chris89topher said:


> Wowza! I have never lusted after a Beetle before, until seeing this blue one. Nice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!





Dan00Hawk said:


> Damn that looks absolutely fantastic! Well done!:thumbup:


Thanks, thanks, and thanks!


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