# Repair / Replacement of Window Regulator [added to TOC]



## dstalling (Feb 19, 2009)

While driving though our neighborhood looking at house colors putting window up/down intermittently, the passenger side front door we head a startling and incredibly loud noise (like a small I-beam dropping on concrete floor). We quickly found that the window would no longer go up / down. We were able to push it up and then activate the regulator to keep it in place. Quick appointment with Northtowne VW in KC resulted in same day repair under extended warranty. I'm still a very happy driver of a 2004 Phaeton V8.
daves


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## eurolok003 (Mar 16, 2009)

*Re: Passenger front window regulator fails - loud noise (dstalling)*

Can you share with us the nature of the repairs and the rough expenses for those that may not have extended warranty? Thanks.


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## dstalling (Feb 19, 2009)

Repairs for the door would have been approximatly $450. I didn't inquire about what broke but I'm pretty certain it was the support clips that attach the up/down mechanism to the window frame. 
On another note, I ordered the bottom half of the driver's cup holder as I put a small 3/8" machined part in the cup holder and it jammed the assy; the part rolled under the bottom mechanism and broke due my attempt to recover the part. That part was $135. Good news was I got the part sent directly to me and installed it in about 20 minutes. Very interesting mechanism.


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## dish_dr (Jun 2, 2006)

*Passenger Window Regulator*

Michael,
I am hoping you can help me. I would like to replace the passenger window regulator and was hoping you could help with any hints or suggestions???
Thanks in advance,
Robert


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## dish_dr (Jun 2, 2006)

*Re: Passenger Window Regulator (dish_dr)*

Just a quick follow up. Any suggestions?


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Passenger Window Regulator (dish_dr)*

Hi Robert:
It is a tricky task, and it is easy to either break the window or screw other things up (like wiring) if you have not previously replaced a window regulator on a VW product. So, my first suggestion would be to take the car to the VW dealer and ask them to do it, even though it will probably cost you a couple of hours of labour.
But, if you want to do it yourself, here is a post that will give you some background information:
Door Handles - How to troubleshoot and replace exterior handles (illustrates inner door panel removal and replacement)
Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Passenger Window Regulator (PanEuropean)*

Here are some photos that illustrate what is involved. I took these when I replaced one of my own regulators (under the supervision of the technicians at my VW dealership). Somewhere on this forum there is a detailed post about this procedure with a narrative - but I can't find it.

Michael




























Now go look at this post for further information about how to get the inside door panel off, so that you can proceed to what things look like in the picture below: 
Door Handles - How to troubleshoot and replace exterior handles


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## Ken Nelson (Feb 7, 2010)

*Power window problem*

My front pass window started to make an awful noise as I raised it so I got as far as removing the door cover but is stuck from removing the aluminum panel that covers the window. Everything is loose including the locking mech but I still cannot remove the panel. I tried with the window up and down. Is there a secret fastener somewhere? Thank you in advance.


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## Ken Nelson (Feb 7, 2010)

*Re: Power window problem (Ken Nelson)*

Thank you so much for the reply Michael, Its people like you who make the world a better place. I am attending a trade show till Fri when I get home I will remove the glass and let you know my success.
Thanks again,
Ken


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## Motorista (Oct 28, 2005)

*Re: Power window problem (Ken Nelson)*

Ken,
A while ago I had to replace a cracked driver side window and have a series of photos of the process, including the two access holes that Michael is referring to and the related glass clamps. I don't know how to post them here, but if you IM me your e-mail I will be happy to send them to you.
Stefano


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## Ken Nelson (Feb 7, 2010)

*Re: Power window problem (Ken Nelson)*

Thank you again Michael and Stefano for your help I got the window released from the bracket and now I see the problem. I was hoping I could machine a new pulley on my lathe but this thing looks to be unrepairable due to permanent rivets and it’s disposable design. I ordered the whole regulator from vwdiscountparts.com in Murrieta for $199 I wont get my hands on it till Wed so I will keep you posted. The glass clamps on my car work different, left on the torx screw loosens the clamp and right tightens. Stefano I have had good luck with using photobucket for a picture host tool, it is free to sign up and pretty easy to use if the pics are on your computer, Email is a pain because the files are sometimes to big unless they are shot in low res. Michael’s post disappeared today from the forum for some reason, does anyone know why?


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## Ken Nelson (Feb 7, 2010)

*Re: Power window problem (Ken Nelson)*

Finished!







Well it went back together easier then I thought. Before I put the final panel back on I tested everything and discovered the sub speaker had no output because the wire from the terminal was broke. I then had to carefully apply soder and epoxy to make the fix now its done and it all works great. Thanks again for your tips and hints. Ken


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Power window problem (Ken Nelson)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Ken Nelson* »_...Before I put the final panel back on I tested everything and discovered the sub speaker had no output because the wire from the terminal was broken...

That is actually a fairly common problem with the front door bass speakers, and 90% of the time, that is the cause of failure of the speaker. As you have discovered, it is a fairly easy fix. Granted, removing the inside door panel is not particularly easy, but if you are going to replace the speaker, you have to remove the door panel also - so, it makes sense to check for a broken wire before forking out the money to buy a new speaker.
Michael


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## zenmoused (Nov 6, 2008)

*Re: Power window problem (PanEuropean)*

To Michael or Ken- I'm doing my own window regulator later and glass today for a rear door. I have the trim of the door off, and I'm wondering how you guys handled the rivets? I'm pretty sure they need to be drilled out, but what did you do to replace them upon installing the new regulator? 
Thanks,
Brian


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## msab (Jun 14, 2011)

*Problem with the driver door (possibly window regulator failure)*

Hello

I posses a 3.0 TDI. I´ve got a problem with the driver door, strictly with the window.

Last week, I had closed the window and heared a sound like "plastik broken down" and fell down. Al that happened in the door. I can open and close the window, but I can hear a strange noise. 

What can this be? Has anybody a picture of inside the door?

My english isn´t the best.

Thanks


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hello:

I suspect that a piece of the window regulator (the pantograph that raises and lowers the electrically operated window) has come loose.

Although the window may continue to operate normally at this time, you should have this problem investigated and corrected as soon as possible. If the window eventually works loose in its mechanism, the glass can be scratched, and that will require replacement of the window.

There is a discussion "somewhere" in the forum about window regulator replacement (I had to have one replaced on my car), but I can't find it. If someone else can find this discussion and post a link, I will refresh the photos (if needed) and append this new thread to the end of it.

Michael


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## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

PanEuropean said:


> There is a discussion "somewhere" in the forum about window regulator replacement (I had to have one replaced on my car), but I can't find it. If someone else can find this discussion and post a link, I will refresh the photos (if needed) and append this new thread to the end of it.
> Michael


This one? *Repair-Replacement-of-Window-Regulator-add-to-TOC*


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## KonaJack (Feb 1, 2009)

I had the exact same thing happen about 2 years ago - it sounded like plastic (or horrors, glass) breaking. Luckily it was indeed a plastic piece of the window regulator and the repair was covered under warranty. The bill would have been over $1,000 at the VW dealer here in the States if it hadn't been under warranty.


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## msab (Jun 14, 2011)

@KonaJack

Could you give me a part number, I would like order the part and fix it in my own.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Msab:

Be aware that window regulator removal and replacement is a very complex and difficult task, it scores about 11 on a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest level of complexity.

If you have not done it before, the chance of breaking something during the process is very high.

Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Archival Note:*

Related posts with similar content:

Window Regulator Replacement - 2004 Phaeton

Keyless Entry Issues (consolidated discussions)

Michael


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## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

Hi Michael, (or other knowledgeable member),

I'm wondering what will happen with the window when the inner metal cover (including speakers and window motor) is removed.
The purpose of my operation is the repair of the door lock button and removal of something inside the door that rattles. My concern is that once I remove the inner metal cover (or even just the motor with gear box), the window will just drop down. Because...when the motor is removed, the mechanical connection between motor (including gear and brake) and winding mechanism of the window is disconnected. Perhaps the window is kept in position by some brake mechanism, not related to the motor... then there shouldn't be a problem. I just need to know for sure, before creating a mess of my now still fully functional window.

Any thought is welcome.

Willem


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## Motorista (Oct 28, 2005)

*Reply to Willem*

Willem,
I think you should first pull the glass out of the door completely, and then take the inner panel off. A few years ago I had a freak small stone thrown up from another vehicle on the turnpike crack my driver's glass top to bottom. Based on my recollection of how my Phaeton tech and I replaced the glass, the procedure went like this:

1) take off the outer door panel following the direction in this thread and the others mentioned here.
2) Take off the outer mirror (there's a thread somewhere here with pictures on how to do that)
3) Apply masking tape to the outside metal trim and parts of the painted outside door panel to prevent scratches. This is because you will be sliding out the entire glass panel by pulling it up and out at an angle of about 10 degrees, while standing outside the door.
4) lower the glass slightly until the screws holding the clamps at the bottom of the glass line up with the top access holes along the upper lip of the inner (metal) panel.
5) inserting a tool (torx, if I remember correctly) in the access holes, carefully loosen the clamp screws holding the glass. Avoid loosening them completely as they would fall inside the door, just loosen them enough that the glass can slide up and out freely.
6) now standing outside and in front of the door, grab the glass and carefully pull it up and out towards you. This will be possible because the glass is not fully closed (you had to lower it to line up the clamp screws with the access holes), so you can grab the top of the glass pane. Carefully put the glass down in a safe place, preferably on corrugated cardboard fro protection.
At this point you should be able to take off the inner metal panel without having to worry about the glass.
Sometime over the weekend I'm going to experiment with photobucket and see if I can post the photos of my repair. Please keep in mind that this is purely from memory, so I may have omitted some detail.
Stefano


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## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

Hello Stefano,
Thank you for your reply.

Actually, I'm going to work on the right rear door, but probably this doesn't affect your instructions, apart from the mirror.
If possible, I do not want to take out the window at all, and was thinking that perhaps temporarily taping it to the upper part of the door may keep it in place throughout the process. I even thought that this might not be necessary, by looking at a cached photo of the thread:

Keyless Entry Issues (consolidated discussions)

One of the photo's in post *#11* looks like this:










What I'm trying to achieve is exactly what is shown in the photo. From the reflection of the window, it appears that it is still in place. And *Post #11* (by Michael) doesn't mention anything about removal of the window prior to partial removal of the inner metal cover (with speakers and motor still in place). 
So perhaps Michael has found a great method to remove this panel without breaking the glass or ... perhaps was lucky that the window didn't drop to the bottom of the door. 

I'm looking forward to seeing your photos.

Willem

_Postscript by Michael: Full size image provided, because photo has now been re-hosted on the original thread._


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## Motorista (Oct 28, 2005)

Willem,
Just got the photos into Photobucket, now I have to figure out how to post them here:facepalm: (let me know if there's an easy way...). In any case, you are right, perhaps the window can be left in place: in my case, of course, replacing the glass was the whole purpose of the exercise. In any case, removing the glass was surprisingly easy and took only approx. 5 minutes, ditto for puting it back. One step I had forgotten: the two access holes are covered by large black rubber grommets: you have to remove the grommets first.
Stefano


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## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

The removal of the aluminium inner support panel or the RR door turned out to be a PITA. My own fault, I should have RTFM before starting the job. :facepalm: After reading the manual, it turned out that some things need to be done around the locking mechanism. The next important thing is to release the window from its support bracket (which is attached to the internal support panel by means of the winding mechanism). Two rubber plugs need to be removed and the window needs to be lowered until the metal bracket is visible. For some time, I was figuring out what was preventing this panel to be removed from the door, but obviously it is due to the window itself, plus the locking mechanism.

Stefano, if you can post your photo's, it would be great. The most simple way to post your photo:



Reply to a thread as you normally do.
In photobucket, open the photo in a separate tab or window.
Copy the link, for instance by selecting the full text in the address bar of your browser, then copy the link.
Go back to the text editor and put your cursor where you wish to place the photo.
Press on the fifth icon from the right; a pop-up window appears, asking you to enter the URL of your photo. This is where you have to paste the link you copied earlier. (i.e. by pressing CTRL-V)
Press OK when you have done that. Your message will now contain a string of text, looking like this:


"







" without the *"*.

Of course you can also type the codes and paste your link so that it looks as above. Please note that the photo will only become visible in preview mode or after posting. If it does not appear, then please take a close look at the actual codes. Note that no spaces are allowed in the entire string of text.

I would be especially interested in photos showing details about the door handle and about a method do disconnect the connection of the door handle part and the internal support panel.

Thanks in advance,

Willem


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## tynee (Dec 19, 2007)

*My Tips and 2 cents if by yourself*

Finished my drivers door regulator this weekend, figured I would post some of my experience highlights:

1. I used the special Hazet VW tool, I broke one mount, and the rest of the fasteners popped out without me actually disengaging them. Apparently just sliding the tool into the right part of the fastener will release them. I got the tool in the general area and used it like a crowbar with remarkably no damage (save one broken mount). I recommend not doing that.

2. The eBahn manual tells you to loosen two bolts in order to remove the door lock emchanism. I loosened and fidgeted with the lock progressively until both bolts had fallen into the door panel and were lost. The lock still wouldn't budge. I completed the job without removing it by prying the door lock electrical connection out with very little effort. Just be patient. Luckily the bolts I lost in the door were recovered and reinstalled (with a lot of swearing and fine "finger-work").

3. I removed the window myself, just for safety sake, but I would recommend lowering it (tape it to the door frame just in case) and unfastening it from the regulator, then lifting it by hand and duct-taping it higher in place to the door frame. Especially if you don't have help. It was kind of a pain getting the window out and back in without tearing up the weathring seals.

4. I used all new fasteners for reinstalling the door panel, and I'm glad I did. Loose pieces on a car really bug me, and the new fasteners were cheap and installed easily.

5. Five hours is a good estimate. You can easily do it faster, but I was feeling my way around the whole time, and dealing with computer problems.


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## OrlandoVW (Dec 24, 2012)

*VW Power Window Repair Questions*

Hi everyone. There is a company in Orlando called Power Window Repair. The owner name is Bob and he has help me at no charge many times for advice and recommendations. We have 5 VW between my family and my in-laws. Did repairs on 3 of them. Fair prices on VW power window roll up windows and is a free mobile service.

407-415-5401 
www.powerwindowrepairservices.com 
[email protected]


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## Ed LeBlanc (Nov 7, 2012)

*window regulator*



Motorista said:


> Ken,
> A while ago I had to replace a cracked driver side window and have a series of photos of the process, including the two access holes that Michael is referring to and the related glass clamps. I don't know how to post them here, but if you IM me your e-mail I will be happy to send them to you.
> Stefano


Can U PLEASE send me the photos and ANY infor about taking the door apart ONLY for the regulator. My window almost goes up leaving about 1/16th of an inch at the top...it looks closed but I can use my hand and push up a little more. Wit it NOT up at 70MPH U hear a high pitched wind noise.


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## Ed LeBlanc (Nov 7, 2012)

*window regulator*



Motorista said:


> Ken,
> A while ago I had to replace a cracked driver side window and have a series of photos of the process, including the two access holes that Michael is referring to and the related glass clamps. I don't know how to post them here, but if you IM me your e-mail I will be happy to send them to you.
> Stefano



Can U PLEASE send me the photos and ANY infor about taking the door apart ONLY for the regulator. My window almost goes up leaving about 1/16th of an inch at the top...it looks closed but I can use my hand and push up a little more. Wit it NOT up at 70MPH U hear a high pitched wind noise. 
Oh...forgot e mail address
[email protected]


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

Few months ago, I lowered the front passenger side window and it made a freakish sound. From then untill this afternoon it worked well with no problems. Today, I was in the gas station and wanted to lower the glass only to hear the same terrible sound. Worse, the glass dropped in a weird angle! I managed to raise it by gently lifting it manually along with using the window button. 

:facepalm:


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Some sooner, some later.... in the end, they all break!


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

invisiblewave said:


> Some sooner, some later.... in the end, they all break!


Indeed.

Found this related page that might be helpful to many

http://vwts.ru/body/ph/ph_70-02.pdf

Regards,

Salah


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

> Found this related page that might be helpful to many
> 
> http://vwts.ru/body/ph/ph_70-02.pdf


The link may not work first time. If not, open the root page http://vwts.ru/ first, then try opening the PDF.

Chris


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

Hi Chris,

I don't know what happened and why the link doesn't work, but I googled the link and popped up as the first result.

Regards,

Salah


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

I think the direct link won't work until the root page has sent a cookie to the browser for tracking purposes. After that the web server lets the PDF go out.

Cheers,
Chris


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

Bindaham said:


> http://vwts.ru/body/ph/ph_70-02.pdf


Google "ph_70-02.pdf" then change the 02 to 04 & 05 etc and enjoy 😊

Regards,

Salah


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

Update:

Couple of weeks ago, my right front window glass dropped down in a weird angle when I lowered it. The dealer found more problems with the rear ones which I don't use at all and they're recommending changing all four window regulators providing part numbers as follows:

3D1837461N (Front left) - 3D1837462N (Front right)

3D7839461L (Rear left) - 3D7839462L (Rear right)

:what:


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Salah,

It sounds suspiciously as if the other windows had simply not been adapted after a prior battery disconnection, ie run manually down 'past the stop' and up 'past the stop', to tell their respective controllers where the end points are.

Chris


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Is this the same dealer that recommended you change both front struts after one failed?


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

Hello Chris,

That might be the case. I'll adapt and report.

Regards,

Salah


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

Hi Wave,

In all honesty, changing both dampers was my idea and was done in an indy shop. I thought the other damper was bound to fail so why buy time while I was changing one to begin with. 

Regards,

Salah


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

Here's my windows situation. Pretty sure the front passenger window regulator has something wrong going on in it since the dropping of the window continues in a weird angle. The back left window's problems was an adaptation matter and all is well with it now.


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## Fratrick (Jan 23, 2009)

Does anybody know where I can find the screw that goes into this window bracket piece? I stripped one of them while replacing it. It's a torx with an odd thread to it.









My regulator was fine. The metal line had slipped off of one of the wheels and was causing the issue.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Can't help you with sourcing the screw, but look very closely at the wheel. There's a huge amount of tension on the wire, it can't slip off unless the wheel is damaged. All the regulator failures are from the wheels breaking and the wire slipping off.


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## Fratrick (Jan 23, 2009)

invisiblewave said:


> Can't help you with sourcing the screw, but look very closely at the wheel. There's a huge amount of tension on the wire, it can't slip off unless the wheel is damaged. All the regulator failures are from the wheels breaking and the wire slipping off.



Thanks. I did inspect it and couldn't find any damage to it.


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

Fratrick said:


> Does anybody know where I can find the screw that goes into this window bracket piece? I stripped one of them while replacing it. It's a torx with an odd thread to it.
> View attachment 107628
> 
> 
> My regulator was fine. The metal line had slipped off of one of the wheels and was causing the issue.


I assume you are referring to the bolt securing the glass to the regulator?! It's a left-hand thread. I don't know the part # and if it's shared with any other VW/Audi models. I have a few of those laying around, send me PM if you want a couple but it might be faster for you to see if a dealer local to you has it.


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## Fratrick (Jan 23, 2009)

Phaetonlvr said:


> I assume you are referring to the bolt securing the glass to the regulator?! It's a left-hand thread. I don't know the part # and if it's shared with any other VW/Audi models. I have a few of those laying around, send me PM if you want a couple but it might be faster for you to see if a dealer local to you has it.
> 
> View attachment 107677
> 
> ...


Thanks Phaetonlvr. I need the one that goes into the other side. It secures the slider to the regulator bracket. I think it may be reverse threaded. There is one for each mount (total of two). I can't find photos of it anywhere on the internet and it appears to be part of the regulator itself.


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

The bracket you show in your picture is not bolted to the regulator, rather it has grooves that secure it to the regulator slider so it can move up and down. The bolt I show is the one that goes in the threaded hole in the bracket but when the regulator is installed in the door you will see this bolt from the other side and it will look like a stud with a female torx.


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

Take a look at the photos in post #7, there's a good picture of the whole regulator assembly.


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## Fratrick (Jan 23, 2009)

Phaetonlvr said:


> Take a look at the photos in post #7, there's a good picture of the whole regulator assembly.


Thanks, I'm looking at it now but it shows the other side of the regulator and not the other side you see when it is still attached to the door. The torx bolts I am referring to are visible when you lower the window down to the circular holes. They don't have much of a head on them or any head at all.


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

Here's the bolt from the other side, you only see the stem part because the large head is behind the glass, that's why you think it has no head.


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

Essentially you are not torquing that bolt from the head, like any other bolt, but from the bottom (opposite end of the head). That's the reason why it's left hand threaded so that you can still tighten and loosen it the usual way (lefty loosey righty tighty).


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Fratrick said:


> Does anybody know where I can find the screw that goes into this window bracket piece? I stripped one of them while replacing it. It's a torx with an odd thread to it.
> 
> My regulator was fine. The metal line had slipped off of one of the wheels and was causing the issue.


Left, right, front rear?

7zap shows the entire regulator with no separate parts but I found this diagram.

It looks like we can buy #3 separately if they will fit Phaetons. I believe Stephan's screw is at #4:

Bentley Continental Flying Spur (2006-2012) window lifter, guide channels, window slot seal for door parts | Scuderia Car Parts

CLAMP SCREW M10 X 1.0 LH (3W0837441) | Flying Spares

Rear Door Diagram:

Bentley Continental Flying Spur (2006-2012) window lifter, guide channels, window slot seal for door parts | Scuderia Car Parts


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## Fratrick (Jan 23, 2009)

Phaetonlvr said:


> Here's the bolt from the other side, you only see the stem part because the large head is behind the glass, that's why you think it has no head.
> 
> View attachment 107720


That's it! Do you have any spare ones? I need two and would be happy to send you a few bucks for your time and help.


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

Fratrick said:


> That's it! Do you have any spare ones? I need two and would be happy to send you a few bucks for your time and help.


I can send you two. Send me your mailing address via PM and how fast you need it.


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## Fratrick (Jan 23, 2009)

Thanks Again to Phaetonlvr. The window on my v8 is now working perfectly after the fix. I'm now working on the regulators on my w12 car and on the front driver side I have a snapped and broken off wheel that will have to be replaced. When buying a replacement wheel, do you have to dremel off this piece and then rebolt? Or whill the wheel fit over it and snap into place? I've attached the photo


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

Glad to hear you got the window working!

The roller/pulley needs to be replaced as a whole unit with the bearing so you need to drill that out. You'll have to find a correct diameter pulley from a hardware store as VW doesn't sell those. You'll also have to deal with re-tensioning the wire which is pretty tricky as I understand it. Other members have had success but I've never personally done that repair. There's plenty of info either in this thread or one of the others about window regulator issues.


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

There are tricks or mods that may be applied here to tension the cable the same way some Porsche owners resolve their regulator issues. Also, the pulleys may be easily machined or printed. I'll offer to model it if someone sends me a sample or can provide detailed accurate sketches. Even if a replacement pulley is sourced, you'll have to find some way of mounting it which shouldn't be too difficult. 

Damon

Conceptually (Porsche)


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Phaetonlvr said:


> Glad to hear you got the window working!
> 
> The roller/pulley needs to be replaced as a whole unit with the bearing so you need to drill that out. You'll have to find a correct diameter pulley from a hardware store as VW doesn't sell those. You'll also have to deal with re-tensioning the wire which is pretty tricky as I understand it. Other members have had success but I've never personally done that repair. There's plenty of info either in this thread or one of the others about window regulator issues.


I did this using a brass wheel from a sliding door repair kit, the pulley was very close to the same size. However, I don't remember having to do any drilling, I think I was able to just bolt it in place. The tensioning is difficult because on the Phaeton, unlike other VW regulators, the tension is automatic and not adjustable, it can get tighter but not looser. I was never able to get the tensioner thing out, but was eventually able to get the wire around the pulley anyway, the tension wasn't quite as tight as it should have been but it works, and since it's a brass pulley it's unlikely to break again (it's always that same one that fails, 3 of mine have done the same thing).


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## Fratrick (Jan 23, 2009)

Okay so when replacing one of the four pulleys, the bearing must also be replaced. Is this also in these repair kits? I'm assuming you will need to bolt it to the back to keep it in place. 

This one also has a broken tensioner on it. I may end up replacing this driver unit and trying to fix the others.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

The wheel I bought came with a bearing, if I remember correctly.


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## Fratrick (Jan 23, 2009)

Here's a wild question. Can these window catches be re-adhered/refit to the windows? My driver side window appears to be quite a mess and both catches have come off the actual window glass. It appears to have two plastic tabs inside of it (shown in photo) I only have one left. I hope I don't have to replace the entire window.


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

Never had that happen on mine, maybe use Auto Glass Urethane Windshield Adhesive that is used to attach windshields?! There shouldn't be much force on this when opening the window and closing the window is obviously not a problem.


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## Fratrick (Jan 23, 2009)

Excellent. I fixed these and replaced with a new regulator. 3 more to go and the rear window is in the same condition as the front. 1 of the 4 wheels is broken and the main motor wheel appears slightly disheveld as well. I'm going to try to fix with the sliding door repair kit. I'm not sure if I need to replace the main motor wheel or not? If it's in the same position it should be okay right?


My only reservation is the fact that the four posts where the wheels are are all riveted on the ends. So I hope this replacement wheel will insert properly without modification and stay put.


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## Fratrick (Jan 23, 2009)

invisiblewave said:


> I did this using a brass wheel from a sliding door repair kit, the pulley was very close to the same size. However, I don't remember having to do any drilling, I think I was able to just bolt it in place. The tensioning is difficult because on the Phaeton, unlike other VW regulators, the tension is automatic and not adjustable, it can get tighter but not looser. I was never able to get the tensioner thing out, but was eventually able to get the wire around the pulley anyway, the tension wasn't quite as tight as it should have been but it works, and since it's a brass pulley it's unlikely to break again (it's always that same one that fails, 3 of mine have done the same thing).


Can you send us a link or description of the wheel/kit that you used? I was only able to find this at Lowes


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## Fratrick (Jan 23, 2009)

Okay, so I found a 1.5 inch slider kit online (none were available in any of the local hardware stores). I was able to dremel off the post and then use the bolt and nut that were included in the kit. I did have to dremel off toward the top end of the bolt to make it more flush. Also I had to buy some washers and insert one or two onto the other side along with the brass wheel in order to give it clearance. when tension was applied it wanted to pull it down just a bit and it was rubbing against the metal pillar. It is moving freely and seems to be normal. 

My car is out finally getting the bodywork done and I will have it back in about a month or less. Once I'm sure it is working I will post some pictures.


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