# Dual Dell 40mm 1.8 CounterFlow Rabbit



## Rocko'sEuroGTi (Feb 2, 2005)

Hi All!
This is my first endeavor with Carbs, and figured I'd post my build to get a little help and insight.
The Car in question:
84' Gti, 1.8L RD Hydro Head 8v, 268 Cam, 4-1 Header
To be used for AutoX and trackdays.
The Project in Question:
Dual Dellorto 40mm Carbs (I currently forget choke and jet sizes )
Facet/Empi Electric Fuel pump
Empi Regulator
Factory Ignition
The plan after getting the car running is to build up a stainless heat shield to go under the carbs, to prevent the fuel from being boiled off. I've got some options as far as plugging the injector ports, either with filling the cis adapters with Aviation PRC, or with transmission fill plugs. I also plan on building a mounting bracket for the pump in the factory location, picking up off of the two factory studs, using the factory wiring. Will this work, or will I need to run supplementary wiring to the facet pump? My plan for the PCV system is to get a MK2 Valve Cover, and put a K&N breather filter into the PCV outlet. The next thing to deal with is the brake booster. There is a bung on the #4 Cylinder intake runner, but it seems somewhat unwise to be utilizing vacuum from only one cylinder, if there was ever a leak, that cylinder would go extremely lean. Any thoughts or ideas? Should I drill and tap the other three runners and build up a manifold? This brings me to my next question. Is Vacuum advance necessary with my distributor? If I were to build up some sort of vacuum manifold, this question wouldn't be a problem, however, once again, referencing vaccuum off of a single cylinder for advance seems unwise and even impossible, as the vacuum is not steady. I've heard and read, the distributors weights and springs can be changed for my desired mechanical advance, but is the Vacuum necessary as well? Another question i've got pertains to fuel supply. Should I use all of the factory hardlines? I've thought of a nifty way of adapting the CIS Line to my Filter in the engine compartment. Next question, is 1/4" ID rubber line going to be sufficient to supply both carbs with ample fuel? Or should I take back that line in exchange for 3/8". All of the nipples that came with my pump, and regulator are for 1/4" ID. Last question, is the Factory ignition ample to at least get the car running and tuned. MSD or mallory is out of the budget as of now.

Any comments and suggestions are GREATLY appreciated. Thanks for your time!!



























_Modified by Rocko'sEuroGTi at 4:30 PM 3-15-2009_


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## Rocko'sEuroGTi (Feb 2, 2005)

OH! And my filters came with two Plastic Elbows. Any ideas on what they are for?


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## Boost_Retard (Oct 10, 2005)

plastic elbows probably go into the base plate of the filter for crank case breather recirculation. i have seen allot of rails on dual side drafts using the stock ignition with no problems, i am specificly trying not to use any MSD type gear this time around with my ignition beacuase i have had major problems with MSD type stuff killing caps and rotors in short order
i will be contacting some shops tomorrow to see about having the distributor spun to ditch the Vac canister. 
another option that might work (i hope to know for sure tomorrow) is taking the internals of a aircooled 009 bosch dizzy (pure centrifugal advance)and installing them into the stock 1.8L style dizzy. 
then you dont have the hall sender any longer i would imagine, but maybe thats not the case..not sure how much can be swaped untill i have the 009 in my hand, but i do know a guy thats running his rail with dual downdraft idf webbers with stock 1.8L dizzy and 009 internals, he swaped the 009 points out for a electronic ignitior and the thing runs great,
i have had electronic ignitiors burn out on me more times than i can count so i hope to use the advance portion of the 009 and the hall sender of the 1.8L all stuffed into a ABA block
i will let you know what i find out
Cale


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

*FV-QR*

It's worth it to note that the way to retain fuel economy with a carbed setup is to add in some cruising advance...which the 009 can't do.
Google the Mallory Unilite distributors...they still have a VW watercooled application available, and they are infinitely adjustable (and come in vac and non vac advance). I'm considering snagging one too.


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## antichristonwheels (Jun 14, 2001)

*Re: Dual Dell 40mm 1.8 CounterFlow Rabbit (Rocko'sEuroGTi)*

PMO makes a great regulator that will allow you to retain the CIS pump et.al. No use wasting time, money and energy with a different pump and regulator. It's about $65 delivered, comes with a gauge: http://www.pmocarb.com/
Your paranoia about vacuum from #4 only is unwarranted. Hook it up and forget about it.
Thermal barrier coating on the exhaust manifold and downpipe would be best, but a shield will work.
Run as much intital advance as your fuel will allow: time it by ear, but don't run it on the ragged edge.
This is my fav tool for adjusting mixure on carbs. Sooo easy:
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop...69880
tool A is what you use to set your linkage: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop...69875


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

*FV-QR*

Running too much top end timing can actually kill HP though







.


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## Boost_Retard (Oct 10, 2005)

the mallory distributors are nice but at 450US a peice i would like a distibutor that would fit direct into an ABA block, mind you it would be great for your 1.8L
i took my 1.8L distributor to a local speed shop today and they are setting it to my specs on a standard distributor machine. no more Vac pot needed.. i just need to look into locking the plate down so i can remove the canister and have a cleaner look..
so it can be done, you can use your distributor as a pure mechaincal set to your specs, and its 75$ CDN to get mine done so im sure you can find a good price local.


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## Boost_Retard (Oct 10, 2005)

hey i just noticed your AVR sticker and that your from Abby, if you care to contact the shop that will be doing my distributor, they are called southside automotive in port coquitlam,


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## Rocko'sEuroGTi (Feb 2, 2005)

Thanks for all the info and input guys. I may just be giving Southside a shout. Art at AVR figured the factory advance will at least work to get it running. 
As far as thermal barrier coating, I was thinking of getting the header ceramic coated as well, are you talking about header wrap?
The Mallory distributor is tempting but unfortunately out of budget at this time. *Sigh* If only I had a bank account with endless money...


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## Boost_Retard (Oct 10, 2005)

ceramic coating is great, i had my last header done "aluminum" on the outside and flat black on the inside, it really keeps the heat in the header. but in my experience anyhow..oil drips make ugly stains, and a scratch will start some rust then its down hill from then on..
i use headerwrap on all my 8V headers, it does its job well but it does cut down on life span on the header in the wet climate..
i have had 2 headers crack, well..one exploded, due to header wrap, not that it would not happen sooner or later without it, but it does a number on the steel after a while. make a nice exhaust note if your wrap the whole exhaust system though..


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## Cynical 1 (Jan 23, 2003)

*Re: (Boost_Retard)*

mallory part number is: Mallory 4564001 for anyone interested. yes, about $450, but looks viable. 
as far as my setup, i'm running vac advance off the 1 port, as well as my brake booster. 
i do have a vacuum canister up in the raintray to help level out vacuum, and it does the job. i have about 15-20 inches of vac at idle - not stock, but not too bad for the cam i'm running. 
my ignition is stock as far as the ignition control module. i have an msd coil and rev limiter. also did away with the stock fuel pump relay and did an inertia switch and a toggle switch in the dash to control pump functions. 
also, i made aluminum heat shields that bolt on between my carb and velocity stack that curve under the carbs and run to the back of the head, as can be seen in the pic. 


















_Modified by Cynical 1 at 9:24 AM 3-21-2009_


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## Rocko'sEuroGTi (Feb 2, 2005)

Cynical, what are you running for fuel line?


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## Cynical 1 (Jan 23, 2003)

*Re: (Rocko'sEuroGTi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Rocko’sEuroGTi* »_Cynical, what are you running for fuel line?

fuel line is simply 5/16 fuel line. i got the fuel injected variety because it is a little tougher. 
i cut and then flared the original metal feed line, then ran the hose off of it to my regulator, then from the regulator to the carbs. 
as for the rear, i came out of the tank, which is a 1/2 inch, stepped it down to 3/8 and went into a carter 4070 pump. from the pump is 5/16 to the stock metal line. 
i also have 2 inline fuel filters - 1 before the pump, and 1 before the carbs.


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## antichristonwheels (Jun 14, 2001)

*Re: (Rocko'sEuroGTi)*

thermal barrier is specifically designed to retain heat and it works better than any other option, It will never rust
http://www.swaintech.com/store.asp?pid=10969


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## Rocko'sEuroGTi (Feb 2, 2005)

*Re: (antichristonwheels)*

Well here it is, got it running. Still have to set timing, mixture and balance em. Sounds like a big displacement street bike.....Kinda cool! A lot more little things to do, like space the mani out from the head with micarta, and build a stainless duct/ heat shield to go between the mani and the header. A whole lot of d*cking around to get it here, but it finally works!


























_Modified by Rocko'sEuroGTi at 7:41 AM 5-2-2009_


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## riceatingrabbit (Aug 20, 2005)

*Re: (Rocko'sEuroGTi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Rocko’sEuroGTi* »_










are you underneath a car supported by just jacks


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## Rocko'sEuroGTi (Feb 2, 2005)

*Re: (riceatingrabbit)*

LOL, looks that way doesn't it! Its Ryan the other owner of the car, and he's Mr. Safety, if you look hard enough you can see his yellow jack stand preserving his well being.
So, took the car out for a boot today, am having some issues with the Empi regulator, my pressure gage reads 3 psi at all times, despite which setting i put the regulator at, and occasionally the fuel pressure will drop down to 0 without warning. I'm not sure if something is clogging the inlet of the regulator causing this drop to zero psi, but that still doesn't explain the inability to adjust the fuel pressure. Any suggestions?


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