# Rattle is Driving Me Nuts....Any thoughts???



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

I have a very annoying rattle coming from the rear package tray area. It has developed over the last few hundred miles and it seems to have continued to get worse. Almost as if whatever is rattling is getting looser. 

Has anyone experienced this issue or anything similar???

I have spent significant time trying to locate this issue, just spent half an hour riding around the in trunk.

No luck. Best I can tell its something metal on metal underneath the package tray.

Any thoughts would be great. Dealer maybe my only next option....


----------



## MagyarCC (Mar 29, 2010)

Sorry, but I have to laugh... Did you really have some drive around while you were in the trunk of your car?!?!  That's classic man! 
I might suggest unloading everything from your trunk including the spare and tool and putting them back it. Also, back up onto a curb sideways (or lift your car), and see about tightening any visible screws and bolts.


----------



## 20thgti2461 (Sep 10, 2005)

I have a rattle too, but only when I turn up the bass! :beer::laugh:


seriously, it sounds like It may be the board behind the back seat rattling. Mine does rattle there from time to time.


----------



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

Ya, I really did have someone drive me around while I was in the trunk.

That is how desperate I am to fix this thing... Ended up getting quite car sick.... lol


----------



## FlaCCOwner (Jul 1, 2010)

*Funny*

I too hate a rattle noise. After getting my new CC I detected a rattle that sounded just like it was coming from the passenger door area. Took it to the dealer, they rode with me, heard it and agreed that it was coming from there. Despite all their attempts they could not stop it. Then on the way home I reached up in the overhead compartment for my sunglasses and removed them. Put them on and noticed the rattle was gone. Drove over everything bumpy I could find and no rattle. Put the sunglasses back and the rattle reappeared. 

My point is, it may not be coming from where you think it is. Sounds inside the cabin can be deceiving. As someone suggested, take everything out and go from there.


----------



## PassatCC75 (Mar 22, 2009)

Try pulling the spare out and checking the plastic liner, put the tire back in and tighten the plastic nut down. I had a rattle like this in a previous car, and it turned out to be the spare rubbing on the side of the well it was in. Padded it with foam and no more rattle. Also, check the locks for the fold down seats, and make sure the bolts are tight. They are near the package shelf. 

And, check the jack. Make sure the handle is secured by the rubber band. I have had them rattle on me in VW's.

I had a dash rattle in a '93 Corrado, which really drove me nuts. I pulled the entire passenger side and glove box and retightened every nut and bolt under the dash. It still rattled! I then began looking under the hood and found a bolt that fastened the dashboard to the frame, and that was the culprit. My point, don't just look in the car, look under it also, as someone else suggested.

I sometimes think VW does this on purpose as a sort of test or more likely a joke. Some guy probably is reading this at the factory and checking to see if he is going to win the pool.


----------



## MagyarCC (Mar 29, 2010)

jonyrace said:


> Ya, I really did have someone drive me around while I was in the trunk.
> 
> That is how desperate I am to fix this thing... Ended up getting quite car sick.... lol


You are a very trusting person. If someone said they wanted me to drive around with them in the trunk, I would have WAY TOO MUCH fun with that!


----------



## irongrey (Dec 16, 2009)

After I installed my sub, I had a significant rattle from the back. I was sure it was the back deck. Turns out, it was coming from the third brake light. I had to dismantle it and install bits of padding as there are two small metalic plates in there that can easily hit each other. So check out the brake light. It was hard to track down as I was sure it was coming from the trunk/rear deck.

Let me know if it turns out to be the brake light.

Good luck.


----------



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

Thanks for the input....

Dropped it off at the dealer this morning. Giving them a crack at getting it resolved.

They only cover rattles for 12k or 12 months... crazy?


----------



## 20thgti2461 (Sep 10, 2005)

irongrey said:


> After I installed my sub, I had a significant rattle from the back. I was sure it was the back deck. Turns out, it was coming from the third brake light. I had to dismantle it and install bits of padding as there are two small metalic plates in there that can easily hit each other. So check out the brake light. It was hard to track down as I was sure it was coming from the trunk/rear deck.
> 
> Let me know if it turns out to be the brake light.
> 
> Good luck.



Cool, thats were it sounds like mine is coming from, I will check that out!


----------



## irongrey (Dec 16, 2009)

20thgti2461 said:


> Cool, thats were it sounds like mine is coming from, I will check that out!


I hope this solves your issue. Nothing worse than a bass-induced rattle to spoil a good song.


----------



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

heard from dealer again this afternoon. They located the rattled somewhere in the trim pieces between the package tray cover and the cover on the rear glass pillar. 

Picking it up tomorrow. Hopefully its really fixed.

I will post more on this tomorrow.

Peace


----------



## MagyarCC (Mar 29, 2010)

jonyrace said:


> Thanks for the input....
> 
> Dropped it off at the dealer this morning. Giving them a crack at getting it resolved.
> 
> They only cover rattles for 12k or 12 months... crazy?


That's BS! Man, VW is REALLY doing themselves a disservice on cheaping customers out of service. You can always say "Is it between the bumber and bumper? YES! Now fix it!"


----------



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

Picked up... its fixed. So nice to have that sound gone.

Pretty much a pain free experience. Although somehow they always seem to get something dirty... :screwy:


----------



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

Well, well, well....

Imagine this...its back already... 

This could get quite old very quickly


----------



## acadiancc (Jan 16, 2009)

I have about 4 different rattles coming from the dash and 2-3 from the b and c pillars. It is so annoying!!!! I decided to trade-in the car within 6 months, I absolutely hate driving it now! Sad for such an expensive car (4motion).


----------



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

back to the dealer today... i guess we will see.


----------



## snow blind (May 16, 2007)

rattles and VW just kinda go together


----------



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

Vehicle still at the dealer. They thought they had it fixed again.

Service rep decided to drive it one last time before calling me and the noise is back again. 

Body shop is supposed to be looking at it today. Possible weld issues?? :banghead:


----------



## cw-mouse (May 1, 2009)

Mine's in the shop for rattles coming from the roof area. They are going to replace the complete sunroof frame for me. It's going to be a lengthy job. 

This car rattles like a b*tch, no joke.


----------



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

Sorry to hear that....


----------



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

What kind of lower/rental are they providing for you?

I had the pleasure of picking up a beautiful Chevy Cobalt this afternoon. 

My car is not going to finished until Wednesday at the earliest. :what:


----------



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

They had to get the Service Director and the regional VW quality guy involved. (They call him a QTM)

The VW QTM has asked to the dealer to order some parts that they hope will fix it.

Based on the description given, its sounds like a bolt-on support bracket. The QTM has seen this issue before, apparently it involves some the welds near the package tray and rear pillar?

I have a feeling VW got sick of taking cars back for this issue and devised a way to correct it.

I will post more when I know it.


----------



## cw-mouse (May 1, 2009)

2010 Golf 2.5. Glad it wasn't a City Golf...



jonyrace said:


> What kind of lower/rental are they providing for you?
> 
> I had the pleasure of picking up a beautiful Chevy Cobalt this afternoon.
> 
> My car is not going to finished until Wednesday at the earliest. :what:


----------



## VWHERO (Jul 17, 2010)

jonyrace said:


> They had to get the Service Director and the regional VW quality guy involved. (They call him a QTM)
> 
> The VW QTM has asked to the dealer to order some parts that they hope will fix it.
> 
> ...



True! I had this issue with a client of mine. Our service dept had the weld the support brackets. After the fix... noise gone! Give yourself about 2-3 days bc they have to clear it with VW in order to weld.


----------



## gtitrini (Jun 9, 2006)

FlaCCOwner said:


> I too hate a rattle noise. After getting my new CC I detected a rattle that sounded just like it was coming from the passenger door area. Took it to the dealer, they rode with me, heard it and agreed that it was coming from there. Despite all their attempts they could not stop it. Then on the way home I reached up in the overhead compartment for my sunglasses and removed them. Put them on and noticed the rattle was gone. Drove over everything bumpy I could find and no rattle. Put the sunglasses back and the rattle reappeared.
> 
> My point is, it may not be coming from where you think it is. Sounds inside the cabin can be deceiving. As someone suggested, take everything out and go from there.


 
I put my sunglasses in the small cubby hole to the left of the steering wheel under the light control. It rattles all the time too. As soon as I take them out or put them on, the rattle goes away.


----------



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

VWHERO said:


> True! I had this issue with a client of mine. Our service dept had the weld the support brackets. After the fix... noise gone! Give yourself about 2-3 days bc they have to clear it with VW in order to weld.


 Thanks for the info.... 

I am definitely hoping to have this resolved... 

Crazy to think about them welding on a brand new vehicle though...


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

I have to agree with you with regard to welding on a new undamaged vehicle. Good luck getting your issue resolved.


----------



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

Car is still not done. 

Found out this morning that in addition to welding the part has to be painted... :what: 

Painting, welding and brand new car??? These don't seem to go together. 

I am wondering if I should be concerned... 
also perhaps I should get in contact with VW. 

The dealer and the service rep have been wonderful, nothing to complain about there, but I am concerned about the repairs and this car. 

Anyone have any thoughts or experiences to share in this regard?


----------



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

Picked the car up on Friday... 

Seems to be fixed. I have driven it a few times, no noise. 

Lets hope this is the end of it. 

Peace


----------



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

Spoke with VW corporate. According to my case manager there will be a recall regarding this issue. Obviously this recall will not include my vehicle because it has already been fixed. They are also supposed to be correcting this issue in future production. 

They treated me right and I am a happy customer again.


----------



## Daze513 (May 25, 2010)

I dont have a rattle exactly... More like a loud tap. It sounds like its coming from that exact you mention. Im gonna try dropping my rear seats and looking in that area for any loose panels or any gaps that my be making contact and causing the tap.

Did your start as a tap or was it a rattle? Think of the tap sound as a one time plastic on plastic impact. Not constant. Just random, one time taps. weird. And only at low speed. anything over 40 and it wont happen.


----------



## 03.5GTI (May 5, 2003)

I have the same sound/issue. I only get it when I go over some pavement that is really rough or bumpy and then it kind of sounds like what I would call the right rear shock or something??? Is this the same that you had?


----------



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

Daze513 said:


> I dont have a rattle exactly... More like a loud tap. It sounds like its coming from that exact you mention. Im gonna try dropping my rear seats and looking in that area for any loose panels or any gaps that my be making contact and causing the tap.
> 
> Did your start as a tap or was it a rattle? Think of the tap sound as a one time plastic on plastic impact. Not constant. Just random, one time taps. weird. And only at low speed. anything over 40 and it wont happen.



To be honest, that sounds exactly like what I had. I would take it in asap.


----------



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

03.5GTI said:


> I have the same sound/issue. I only get it when I go over some pavement that is really rough or bumpy and then it kind of sounds like what I would call the right rear shock or something??? Is this the same that you had?


Also sounds just like what I was dealing with it. Take it in.... they will get it corrected.

Its so nice to have that sound gone, its worth the wait and a detail.... Of course they leave you car outside while it sits there for a week. Had to be clayed and waxed but no more annoying noises makes it so much nicer to drive.


----------



## Daze513 (May 25, 2010)

You mentioned there was going to be a recall on this as per your case manager, soo....

Do you recommend I wait for the Recall to come out so that the dealer knows exactly what to do and gets it done quickly and effectively without hunting around in my car?

Or should I just take it in and let them try to figure it out, without any defined solution (yet)?

I think to wait for a definite solution would be best but if it takes too long to come up with the recall, and the Rattle/Tap worsens im gonna be left with no choice but to go in to service before the recall is released. Any suggestion based on your experience?

And I really have no previous experience with this local dealer, so I cant tell you whether they would be effective about it or not. Based on the couple calls i've made to them it seems like it would be a complete flustercuck!


----------



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

VW is aware of the issue and the fix is something they have devised specifically for it. 

If it was me I wouldn't wait for the recall, but its really up to you. It may take a little longer if your dealer hasn't done one yet but at least you will make it much easier for the next guy. That is is the way I had to look at it.


----------



## 08VWR32 (Jan 22, 2009)

I just got a call from VW of America regarding the rattling issue around the rear window/package tray. They told me there is a piece of trim that has to be replaced around the rear window, and even though I'm not having the issue, they told me to bring the car into my dealer so that they can replace the that piece so it doesn't rattle in the future. I thought that was pretty good service on their part to actually call me and let me know about a problem that I don't even have.


----------



## Daze513 (May 25, 2010)

all right so ill definitely call the dealer and set the appointment for service. Thanks for the info guys. Ill let you know how it turns out.


----------



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

Well...Well...Well.

I can't believe it. The rattle is coming back. It has started slowly but I can hear it. 

Called VWoA and advised them. Vehicle headed back to the dealer soon.

:banghead::banghead::screwy:


----------



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

So... Here is the update. Vehicle is back in the dealer as of this morning. 

My service adviser let me know that they have done three more repairs of the same type since mine was in there last. Mine is first to come back with the problem returning... 

I can't wait to here from VWoA tomorrow. :sly:


----------



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

So... Imagine this. Dealer does not hear what I am hearing... 

Getting the car back today. Maybe I am crazy...


----------



## R1der (Sep 25, 2010)

I am not sure if someone already mentioned that but check the metal hooks where the rear seat's back secures at the upright position. Just drop the back, wrap 2-3 times some dust tape and put it back in place. It may solve your problem.


----------



## kitae (Jan 11, 2010)

Do any of u have rattles around armrest area??


----------



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

kitae said:


> Do any of u have rattles around armrest area??


 No not yet...


----------



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

For the record, the rattle is definitely back and F... my dealer.


----------



## kitae (Jan 11, 2010)

jonyrace said:


> No not yet...


 Haha not yet....damn what's wrong with our cars:laugh:


----------



## acadiancc (Jan 16, 2009)

kitae said:


> Do any of u have rattles around armrest area??


 The armrest is the only place that doesn't rattle in my car. I have rattles in all areas of dashboard, A-pillars, B-pillars, around sunroof... 

I have appointment at the dealer next week to see if there is a fix.


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

Thought I would bump this thread back to the top along with the other of the same issue. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ming-from-trunk-area.&p=68098523#post68098523


----------



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

Been back in touch with VW Customer Care and my case manager. Complained to her regarding the return of this rattle. This was after I received a letter about BBB Auto Line which is some sort of alternative resolution method??? 

VW QTM is being contacted regarding my vehicle. Case manager wants him to inspect the repairs and take a test drive with me. Looking like this wont happen until late next week. 

More info to follow....


----------



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

CC is heading back to the dealer in the morning...


----------



## Scott Evil (Aug 21, 2002)

This was an awful thread to read.

As it has gotten cold, my car has developed a rattle too. from the driver's seat, it sounds like it is coming from the passenger side rear door, like a golf ball is bouncing around inside the door. On rough roads it is annoying as hell. Smooth roads I do not hear anything.

Is this the kind of noise you are hearing?


----------



## Daze513 (May 25, 2010)

Well you guys might remember I had the same tapping noise from the rear shelf area. The dealer said they found nothing and during a test drive, with me, where they did hear it, they couldn't find a solution. 

So I went to my buddies body shop and got his opinion. What he explained to me made perfect sense and it's how i found my solution.

I found that as the car is driven, it obviously has a bit of chassis flex. Normal of all cars. Problem with my CC is that the flex affects the rear structural cross member under the rear shelf. That structural cross member has folds in to be able to get the particular shape it has. As the car flexes, and stress is put on this cross member, the folds of the metal actually start rubbing slightly against each other. By slightly I mean less than a millimeter. But it's alot of force that is put on it so instead of the folds just sliding, they bind, un-bind, bind, and so on. This is the actual cause of my particular noise.A tapping, that is actually friction from the folds of metal in the cross member. 

So I thought, how can I reduce this friction? And I figured a lubricant would work. So I sprayed lubricant into the holes that are in the cross member. 

I **** you not...... And please guys don't say I'm crazy because I have confirmed this to myself over and over.... I have ZERO rear shelf noise. Again, Nothing. Zilch. Nada. 

I think the lubricant penetrated into the folds and now allows them to glide, rather than rub against each other. This worked for me. Can't say it's the definite solution, but a can of lubricant is definitely worth quiet in my car. 

The lubricant










The cross member










The holes where I sprayed the lubricant


----------



## dubious judas (Sep 23, 2010)

Nice write-up Daze, that makes sense, I just started to notice some noises in that area. Thanks for taking pictures!


----------



## Daze513 (May 25, 2010)

dubious judas said:


> Nice write-up Daze, that makes sense, I just started to notice some noises in that area. Thanks for taking pictures!


you got it. just hope this can help anyone with future problems because i was going crazy, and its a shame dealers wont put more effort into this. and i dont want to jinx myself but my car is rattle free now. What a semi-luxury car should be like.


----------



## vwauditek25 (Aug 6, 2004)

There has been a few CC's here with this rattling/popping noise when driving and over bumps. I have fixed everyone that has been thru here with none of them coming back. Please let me know if you have her this noise and your dealer has a problem fixing it i can email you a picture of what needs to be done. PM me for issues.


----------



## dubious judas (Sep 23, 2010)

vwauditek25 said:


> There has been a few CC's here with this rattling/popping noise when driving and over bumps. I have fixed everyone that has been thru here with none of them coming back. Please let me know if you have her this noise and your dealer has a problem fixing it i can email you a picture of what needs to be done. PM me for issues.


Why don't you just post it in this thread? Seems related to the topic.


----------



## vwauditek25 (Aug 6, 2004)

dubious judas said:


> Why don't you just post it in this thread? Seems related to the topic.



Sorry can't pictures are VWoA pictures. Next one I have i'll take my own pictures to post


----------



## camarkim (Mar 11, 2004)

Add me to the list. My 2010 CC Sport (with only 2200 miles on the clock) now has infamous rattle in the cross member, and I too (like the OP) had my wife drive last night while I rode around with the back seats down and listened for the loud slap/rattle sound. It's annoying with the seats up, but put the seats down and it's loud and clear. I thought the sound was from the antenna cable thwacking loose inside the cross member, but I poked around in there this a.m., and the cross member is hollow. Anyway, at least that might give you an idea of what it sounds exactly like. A muffled pop/rattle/thwack like a loose wire or cable bouncing up and down against the metal.

I guess I'll make my dealer appointment.


----------



## vwauditek25 (Aug 6, 2004)

I'm back at work on tuesday and I have one coming in hopefully. I'll take pictures of the fix so everyone can get rid of that noise.


----------



## PassatR36 (Jul 18, 2010)

I’ll be waiting for you man 


I own Passat CC 3.6 2011 now, I sold my 2010 r36


----------



## acadiancc (Jan 16, 2009)

PassatR36 said:


> I’ll be waiting for you man
> 
> 
> I own Passat CC 3.6 2011 now, I sold my 2010 r36


----------



## dubious judas (Sep 23, 2010)

vwauditek25 said:


> I'm back at work on tuesday and I have one coming in hopefully. I'll take pictures of the fix so everyone can get rid of that noise.


Is it similar to what Daze513 did?


----------



## mymagoo (Oct 9, 2010)

Yup, same here. A 2010 CC with rattles, creaks and groans in interior. There is actually something rolling around inside the dash. sheesh!

This is my second and LAST VW I'm afraid. My 07 Mexico Jetta was quieter than the CC.

Off to look at some 2011 Sonata SE's


----------



## camarkim (Mar 11, 2004)

Let's not throw the baby out with the bath water. I had my B5 Passat from 2000 to 2010 and there were no squeaks or rattles the entire time. Same thing with a B5 wagon i had during that time as well. 

My B5 sedan had it's fair share of things that needed fixing, (like any other car) but it ran like a champ for 10 years and was still so quiet after all that time that once near the 10 year mark I was idling and some guy actually stopped and turned around and said, "your car is so quiet...I thought it wasn't even on." Not bad for a 10 year old 1.8T ATW with 110K on the clock.


----------



## M Diddy (Sep 25, 2002)

Add me to the list. It's been going on for a while now and starting to get worse. I take it to the dealer tomorrow morning to have it looked at. I may print out this thread and take it with.


----------



## Daze513 (May 25, 2010)

Has anybody else tried what I did in my CC? I can't be the only one this worked for.


----------



## M Diddy (Sep 25, 2002)

Sat at the dealer for 2.5 hours today and got the car back telling me it was noise free and that there was a TSB to replace the sub-frame bolts which was done. 

I drove off the lot and the tapping was just as bad, if not worse than, before. 

I printed out this thread and showed it to the service manager. He didn't even look at it and told me that people on the forums don't really know what they're talking about and if there's a TSB to fix the issue, he'll apply it.

Pissed me off pretty good. Now he wants me to come back to ride with the shop foreman so I can reproduce the noise for him? Why not do that today? I now have to take MORE time off of work because they couldn't fix it right the first time there.


----------



## Daze513 (May 25, 2010)

No one has a can of WD-40 or any other lube? Can any of you guys just get some good sprays in the holes on the crossmember, and see what happens. Guys im telling you, I have no more rattle/tap/creak. My freaking Girlfriend noticed the noise was gone, and she doesnt know much about cars. Someone has to confirm my fix. Maybe it was a lucky fix, but its been about 2 weeks now and nothing has come back. C'mon Guys!


----------



## M Diddy (Sep 25, 2002)

Daze513 said:


> No one has a can of WD-40 or any other lube? Can any of you guys just get some good sprays in the holes on the crossmember, and see what happens. Guys im telling you, I have no more rattle/tap/creak. My freaking Girlfriend noticed the noise was gone, and she doesnt know much about cars. Someone has to confirm my fix. Maybe it was a lucky fix, but its been about 2 weeks now and nothing has come back. C'mon Guys!



No offense bud, but for a 32K car, I'm not hoping into my trunk and spraying Liquid Wrench all over the place. 

I used to use it for the noisy sway bar end links on my MK IV Jetta that I modded to hell, but I'd like my expensive, stock, CC to be repaired by the dealer properly.


----------



## _ANARCHY_ (Dec 14, 2008)

I am actually taking my car in this week to drop off for the upcoming 20K mile maint. I am going to tell them about the rattle in the dash, driver door, overhead console, glove box, passenger rear door, rear deck lid, rear driver seat and the driver seat back popping. Hopefully they will be able to fix all of this stuff as this will too be my last VW if they don't.


----------



## Daze513 (May 25, 2010)

M Diddy said:


> No offense bud, but for a 32K car, I'm not hoping into my trunk and spraying Liquid Wrench all over the place.
> 
> I used to use it for the noisy sway bar end links on my MK IV Jetta that I modded to hell, but I'd like my expensive, stock, CC to be repaired by the dealer properly.


Your not spraying it all over the place Your spraying it in a couple holes. And I agree with your thought about the dealer fixing it, until I attempted 2 times, over at least 5 trips to the dealer, and they did the same thing they are doing to everyone here, saying they don't know what's wrong, and playing with TSBs to see if any of them fix it. Maybe you have better luck at your dealer. I hope you do. For now I'll leave you with a pic of my 32k rattle free CC.


----------



## sergiommms (Oct 17, 2008)

vwauditek25 said:


> I'm back at work on tuesday and I have one coming in hopefully. I'll take pictures of the fix so everyone can get rid of that noise.



So?
...


----------



## sergiommms (Oct 17, 2008)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4992136-Click-clucking-sound-coming-from-trunk-area.
Duplicate thread?


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

Daze513 said:


> Well you guys might remember I had the same tapping noise from the rear shelf area. The dealer said they found nothing and during a test drive, with me, where they did hear it, they couldn't find a solution.
> 
> So I went to my buddies body shop and got his opinion. What he explained to me made perfect sense and it's how i found my solution.
> 
> ...


It appears as if this CC has had the weld in fix already completed. Correct???


----------



## Daze513 (May 25, 2010)

Thats the thing. Mine has had no fixing from the dealer. They have done nothing but waste my time. I told them there was a TSB, they didnt find it. I told them to drive it and listen, they didnt hear it. I told them to ride with me and I duplicated it, They said they didnt know. I told them there was a thread about it on some forums, they said that they dont go based off of unreliable sources (the dealers, opinion not mine) 

But to answer your question, No it has not had any welding or fixing.


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

Daze513 said:


> Thats the thing. Mine has had no fixing from the dealer. They have done nothing but waste my time. I told them there was a TSB, they didnt find it. I told them to drive it and listen, they didnt hear it. I told them to ride with me and I duplicated it, They said they didnt know. I told them there was a thread about it on some forums, they said that they dont go based off of unreliable sources (the dealers, opinion not mine)
> 
> But to answer your question, No it has not had any welding or fixing.


VWoA is aware of the problem. Sounds like your dealer service dept is being dense. Contact VW and advise them of the problem. They will send a rep to your local dealer. There is a weld in fix that requires paint as well. VWoA must authorize this body shop repair. 

Thanks for the reply regarding your car not having the weld in fix.


----------



## Daze513 (May 25, 2010)

johnnymo said:


> VWoA is aware of the problem. Sounds like your dealer service dept is being dense. Contact VW and advise them of the problem. They will send a rep to your local dealer. There is a weld in fix that requires paint as well. VWoA must authorize this body shop repair.
> 
> Thanks for the reply regarding your car not having the weld in fix.


It just sucks to have a brand new car taken apart and welded and painted, and then later if they dont do a good job you have loose panels or other parts in the car that will then rattle, or have paint overspray, or something like that. But I'm not gonna be negative about it. I'm gonna call then and make the appointment to try and get this resolved. Let see what they say. thanks for the info.


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

Daze513 said:


> It just sucks to have a brand new car taken apart and welded and painted, and then later if they dont do a good job you have loose panels or other parts in the car that will then rattle, or have paint overspray, or something like that. But I'm not gonna be negative about it. I'm gonna call then and make the appointment to try and get this resolved. Let see what they say. thanks for the info.


Interested in how your deal turns out. Best of luck.


----------



## sergiommms (Oct 17, 2008)

jonyrace said:


> Possible weld issues?? :banghead:





jonyrace said:


> Based on the description given, its sounds like a bolt-on support bracket. The QTM has seen this issue before, apparently it involves some the welds near the package tray and rear pillar?





VWHERO said:


> True! I had this issue with a client of mine. Our service dept had the weld the support brackets. After the fix... noise gone! Give yourself about 2-3 days bc they have to clear it with VW in order to weld.





jonyrace said:


> Spoke with VW corporate. According to my case manager there will be a recall regarding this issue.





jonyrace said:


> ...I received a letter about BBB Auto Line which is some sort of alternative resolution method???





johnnymo said:


> There is a weld in fix that requires paint as well.


So...
*IS* there a TSB or a recall for this problem?
AND can anyone effectively pinpoint it and who knows... detail or show (pics) the *famous weld in fix?!* Or am I asking too much?!
This forum is getting pretty clogged with unanswered questions, as people seem to stray once they get their own problems solved... (no offense to the quoted members!)
C´mon and SHARE you all. 
Thanks


----------



## Daze513 (May 25, 2010)

sergiommms said:


> So...
> *IS* there a TSB or a recall for this problem?
> AND can anyone effectively pinpoint it and who knows... detail os show (pics) the *famous weld in fix?!* Or am I asking too much?!
> This forum is getting pretty clogged with unanswered questions, as people seem to stray once they get their own problems solved... (no offense to the quoted members!)
> ...


Im going to my dealer next monday, after I drink a calming tea, to try and have the service manager research this and hopefully help me out. Not so much because of the noise, because i have none, but because i want to get it fixed and not have that in the back of my mind. If there is any repair or welding or anything, i will ask to be present to take pictures or try to get you all something. Stay tuned..


----------



## vwauditek25 (Aug 6, 2004)

*rattling/popping noise fixed*

I can't attach photo to thread so please just look at it thru snapfish.

Your going to use a flathead screwdriver to loosen up the stress on the rear parcel shelf. 
Any question please PM me with them. This has worked on all the cars that I have worked on 
in the last 2 weeks. Theres only one trim clip to remove to access the panel.

PICTURE
http://www5.snapfish.com/snapfish/s...8/PictureID=256892596008/a=42251491_42251491/


----------



## dubious judas (Sep 23, 2010)

vwauditek25 said:


> I can't attach photo to thread so please just look at it thru snapfish.
> 
> Your going to use a flathead screwdriver to loosen up the stress on the rear parcel shelf.
> Any question please PM me with them. This has worked on all the cars that I have worked on
> ...


Interesting, thanks for the info and the picture, hope you don't mind me posting it for you on here.


----------



## torpeau (Aug 22, 2009)

I'll take that picture in to the dealer at my next service.

The creaking/popping noise coming from the trunk area of my CC happens on wavy roads -- not particularly bumpy roads. It's hard to image the body lacks so much rigidity.


----------



## 432828 (Nov 21, 2008)

We only need to loosen up that point in the picture? Or is this also in need of a weld?
Anyone know if there is an actual VW recall or TSB on this? thx


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

wogeboy said:


> We only need to loosen up that point in the picture? Or is this also in need of a weld?
> Anyone know if there is an actual VW recall or TSB on this? thx


I was told that the fix included welding a brace in the area which required painting as well. No doubt that when the CC was returned after the fix, there was the smell of fresh paint. 

Not positive about the TSB but I've been told that a TSB has been issued.


----------



## M Diddy (Sep 25, 2002)

There is no TSB for this according to VWoA. I have another appointment at the dealer tomorrow and they are sending out a regional rep as well.

When I talked to VWoA, she could not pull up any TSB's on the CC other then the one for the subframe bolts I mentioned. I'll keep you guys posted on any updates.


----------



## Bluto408CC (Oct 20, 2009)

Sprayed dry luge in e two holes, plus the folds on the side. Absolutely worked! 

Took all of 5 minutes.


----------



## Daze513 (May 25, 2010)

Bluto408CC said:


> Sprayed dry luge in e two holes, plus the folds on the side. Absolutely worked!
> 
> Took all of 5 minutes.


Been saying it for a while. Little bit of lubricant in the holes like I explained a while back. I did it a week later again just to be on the safe side to make sure the lube is in deep. No smell, no mess, and NO rattle. Glad it worked for you bro.


----------



## M Diddy (Sep 25, 2002)

Was just going to post. Auditek was right. 

Got my car back from the dealer after dropping it off this morning. No more popping and knocking.

A TSB was released on 11/19/10 that it exactly what he stated. Where the crossmember meets the frame needs to be loosened a bit and lubed. 

If anyone is going to the dealer for this tell them you need:

TSB 51-10-01

That's the number listed on my invoice they applied.


----------



## dubious judas (Sep 23, 2010)

Thanks M Diddy, taking mine in today and I'll give them the number you provided. I'll update you guys when I get it back.


----------



## dubious judas (Sep 23, 2010)

Just got the car back, no more noise! I gave them the TSB number but the advisor and the shop foreman seemed to already know what I was talking about, they said they've already done a few of these fixes.


----------



## mymagoo (Oct 9, 2010)

Did the dealer merely loosen up the joint and then put some lube in there? Or did they actually do a weld?


----------



## dubious judas (Sep 23, 2010)

mymagoo said:


> Did the dealer merely loosen up the joint and then put some lube in there? Or did they actually do a weld?


This is what the work order said:

"R/R REAR SEAT R/R BOTH PILLER PADS REMOVED BOTH TRUCK (must have meant trunk) LINERS. PRY BACK SHEET METAL;MASSAGE ALL METAL SEAMS IN TRUNK"


----------



## pqerpqer (Nov 21, 2010)

Im afraid I have rattle issues too. Very frustrating as the reason I put VW on my shopping list was because Consumer Reports was reporting excellence on the 2009 cc (I have a 2010 cc R Line DSG). driver door panel rattles sometimes. three attempts at dealer. seemed fixed for a month the first time. less time the last attempts. have developed what seems like a creak from the back. not sure where its coming from - just from rear of car. not being an expert it sounds like a body integrity creak yet the car doesnt act like it has structural integrity issues. tried putting seats dwn. still creaks. i like this car a lot in many ways but i think i wish i had read these forums before i ought. probably should have bought a boring, reliable, quiet Acura TSX.... probably gonna keep a few years and trade it in - and here I was hoping I had bought a beautiful fun car to keep for 10 years....


----------



## pqerpqer (Nov 21, 2010)

jonyrace said:


> Spoke with VW corporate. According to my case manager there will be a recall regarding this issue. Obviously this recall will not include my vehicle because it has already been fixed. They are also supposed to be correcting this issue in future production.
> 
> They treated me right and I am a happy customer again.


what phone # did you call to get VW Corporate? i have what I think is the same - but i think of it as a creak more than a rattle but it makes me think there are structural issues...any details you can provide me are greatly appreciated. i will attempt to contact you directly. thanks!


----------



## pqerpqer (Nov 21, 2010)

Daze513 said:


> No one has a can of WD-40 or any other lube? Can any of you guys just get some good sprays in the holes on the crossmember, and see what happens. Guys im telling you, I have no more rattle/tap/creak. My freaking Girlfriend noticed the noise was gone, and she doesnt know much about cars. Someone has to confirm my fix. Maybe it was a lucky fix, but its been about 2 weeks now and nothing has come back. C'mon Guys!


plus, not being an expert i would be concerned about my doing so would negate any proper fix by VW. this problem is insane. hate to report it to dealer cause then its on the official record of the car....but damn i want it fixed!


----------



## pqerpqer (Nov 21, 2010)

guess i have to break down and contact the dealer about this.....wish me luck! maybe they will take another crack at the driver door rattle too! sigh.......


----------



## Daze513 (May 25, 2010)

pqerpqer said:


> plus, not being an expert i would be concerned about my doing so would negate any proper fix by VW. this problem is insane. hate to report it to dealer cause then its on the official record of the car....but damn i want it fixed!


No I highly doubt they would negate any proper fix, just because of lubricant spray. That's reaching a bit far. 

And as far as structural issues, I don't think they are issues at all, more like regular chassis flex that affects that certain part of the car. Found that long ago when I posted my fix.


----------



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

VW sent a regional rep down on my last visit. They failed to duplicate this issue yet again but they did identify another noise coming from the trunk area. They removed some trim in the trunk and installed some isolation tape (felt?). 

I drove the vehicle off of the dealer lot and proceeded to test it as much as I could. Sound appeared to be gone. (if I was betting, my guess would be they did the loosen and lube without documenting or acknowledging issue described)

Within a couple of extended driving trips the noise was back and even worse than before. 

VW customer care has been notified but they are not willing to do anything for me unless I take it back for another attempt.

Unsure currently of where this is going... 

Just thought it was time for an update.


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

Daze513 said:


> Im going to my dealer next monday, after I drink a calming tea, to try and have the service manager research this and hopefully help me out. Not so much because of the noise, because i have none, but because i want to get it fixed and not have that in the back of my mind. If there is any repair or welding or anything, i will ask to be present to take pictures or try to get you all something. Stay tuned..


Any updates on your situation? Seems the loosening and spray lube fixes are temporary. I've also heard that the weld fix isn't holding too well either. Looking forward to your update.


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

So, where is a list of current TSB's? Website? Im curious about the 4 subframe bolts and of course, I have rattles too.


----------



## raatid (Dec 2, 2010)

I love the styling of the CC. M toying with the thought of getting the 2011 executive VR6. Honda has always been my brand but m soon to find myself with a bit of wealth and want to be very satisfied with my next purchase.

M torn between the VW CC and a BMW X6. U see, form follows function but for me its the complete reverse. Like with houses and women, the appearance of a car is key. I mean, any woman can be loved but throw some outstanding thighs and rears in it and the game becomes very interesting.

I love that muscular ground hugging unique look of an X6 but fear immensely the HPFP issues I have been reading about. I don't find it tolerable to be sitting in a luxury car with my girl and the car is f****ing "limping" or, worse, won't start; thats BS. 

Now, the alleged rattling of a number of places in the CC just won't fly coz while I can always drown them out with my habitual beat of two subs in the trunk while driving by myself, I hv to be hospitable to my passengers (mostly gf) with the volume, at which time those rattles will take the pleasure of finally having an audience, much, m sure, to my annoyance and my passengers' appraisal of my car.

Conventional sedans r not my style; has to be coupe or coupe-looking. love the cadillac cts coupe, but Cadillac is into right hand drive so thats out. 2011 G37 fascia will take getting used to and infiniti has always lacked an aggressive look. Mercedes coupes r too conservative in design and with the xception of the X6 BMW cars don't stand out in appearance. similar design issues with other brand and models have led me to the showdown between the CC and the X6.

Every time I read about one, i change my desktop background to the other. Am I a sick man or is there no car for me? lol


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

raatid said:


> I love the styling of the CC. M toying with the thought of getting the 2011 executive VR6. Honda has always been my brand but m soon to find myself with a bit of wealth and want to be very satisfied with my next purchase.
> 
> M torn between the VW CC and a BMW X6. U see, form follows function but for me its the complete reverse. Like with houses and women, the appearance of a car is key. I mean, any woman can be loved but throw some outstanding thighs and rears in it and the game becomes very interesting.
> 
> ...


Coming from a very long line of owning BMW's, its really a toss up. The maintenance of the BMW is what strayed me away from them, along with new designs not up to par with previous versions. As for the X6, While its an incredible machine, with any motor that you get it with, remember that it too is only a few years old. Much like the CC, its built off an existing platform, but will still inherit issues from said platform, have its own (new) issues because its relatively new, and will attack your wallet viciously when the warranty runs out. The fuel pump fix should be in place by now by the dealer as its a known issue.

Keeping this thread on topic, is there a website that we can go to that has a conglomeration of TSB's, issues that are known by VWoA but not actual TSB's yet? I listened this morning to the rattles in my car with 11k on the clock, and there are a few that sound like they are coming from the passenger side footwell, along with a pop sound from the passenger rear trunk area...


----------



## HornetHandler (Oct 25, 2010)

raatid said:


> I love the styling of the CC. M toying with the thought of getting the 2011 executive VR6. Honda has always been my brand but m soon to find myself with a bit of wealth and want to be very satisfied with my next purchase.
> 
> M torn between the VW CC and a BMW X6. U see, form follows function but for me its the complete reverse. Like with houses and women, the appearance of a car is key. I mean, any woman can be loved but throw some outstanding thighs and rears in it and the game becomes very interesting.
> 
> ...




Finding it hard to take this seriously.


Mack


----------



## raatid (Dec 2, 2010)

Why do u find it hard to believe? I want positive feed back. Your doubt has little value to my need. Tell me more, or at least expand upon your doubt.


----------



## HornetHandler (Oct 25, 2010)

raatid said:


> Why do u find it hard to believe? I want positive feed back. Your doubt has little value to my need. Tell me more, or at least expand upon your doubt.





raatid

The X6 and cc are totally different vehicles; not even in the same class;
Comparing your choice to choosing women;
Worrying about how you will look .... that you'll be embarrassed if your vehicle doesn't perform.

It seems that you're more concerned about your image than anything else, so I'm not sure what you really want from us.


Mack


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

raatid said:


> Why do u find it hard to believe? I want positive feed back. Your doubt has little value to my need. Tell me more, or at least expand upon your doubt.


This thread is about what seems to be an issue of a structural noise that many are experiencing in the parcel shelf/package try area of their CC's. Based on the OP and the many follow up posts, it should be obvious that there are many experiencing issues with CC rattles. Hopefully your question has been answered. There is really no need discussion regarding expanding on doubts or X6's. Instead it would great to keep this thread on topic, as there are quite a few concerned CC owners. 

Thanks


----------



## HornetHandler (Oct 25, 2010)

Hi folks:

Just like you I'm trying to find a cause for these rattles. Throughout my career I was involved in many technical investigation and engineering support activities to determine the cause of problems, and in some cases it was only through the collection of all related, and seemingly unrelated, data that possible problems areas would be identified. Who knows, we may find a common thread that links this altogether.

To that end, as we go forward would you mind indicating the year, model and mileage--I know some of you already have--of your vehicle, as well as any modifications or conditions that you think could possibly be related to the problem? As far as I can tell this problem is confined to pre. 2011 vehicles, but not sure. And, if it is only related to pre. 2011, VW most likely knows exactly what the problem is and, with a little coaxing, we may be able to find out what changes VW made for 2011.

BTW: I have the 2011 Sport with roof and 2,500 Km. So far I don't have any rattles; however, I'm keeping a close ear open and will advise if and when I do. 

Thanks,


Mack


----------



## 432828 (Nov 21, 2008)

HornetHandler said:


> Hi folks:
> 
> 
> To that end, as we go forward would you mind indicating the year, model and mileage--I know some of you already have--of your vehicle, as well as any modifications or conditions that you think could possibly be related to the problem? As far as I can tell this problem is confined to pre. 2011 vehicles, but not sure. And, if it is only related to pre. 2011, VW most likely knows exactly what the problem is and, with a little coaxing, we may be able to find out what changes VW made for 2011.
> Mack


2010 CC Sport w/ 7k miles. Has the annoying creaking noise in the back/trunk shelf area and the subframe bolt problem I think. Also has the DSG mectronics problem. (very jerky shifting)


----------



## HornetHandler (Oct 25, 2010)

wogeboy said:


> 2010 CC Sport w/ 7k miles. Has the annoying creaking noise in the back/trunk shelf area and the subframe bolt problem I think. Also has the DSG mectronics problem. (very jerky shifting)



Thanks wogeboy:

You may already have this, but here is a link to a possible fix for your subframe bolt problem.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ing-subframe-Part-2./page2&highlight=subframe

All the best,


Mack


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

Interesting piece absent on 2nd photo. 

Early on I asked Daze if the weld repair had been done on his CC. Note the dark brown piece that appears to run the length of the bottom of the package tray and is a darker brown color than the rest of the inner structure. This is the piece that we believe that was welded on my friends car 

Photo one










Now note the bottom of the package tray in photo number two. This piece is nowhere to be found. 

Photo two










I am of the opinion the the dark brown piece shown in photo number one is the weld in repair that VW believes corrects the problem. Considering that Daze has stated that his vehicle has not had the weld in repair, it appears as if the repair was done prior to purchase.

If this is the case, VW is aware that the CC in fact has a structural issue that is being repaired before and after purchase. 

I'd be interested to hear from the person here with the 2011 to see if the the mesh looking piece, (dark brown in photo number one) is present.


----------



## HornetHandler (Oct 25, 2010)

johnnymo said:


> Interesting piece absent on 2nd photo.
> 
> Early on I asked Daze if the weld repair had been done on his CC. Note the dark brown piece that appears to run the length of the bottom of the package tray and is a darker brown color than the rest of the inner structure. This is the piece that we believe that was welded on my friends car
> 
> ...



johnnymo:

Good eyes ... Excellent find!

I'll try to get a look at mine tomorrow and let you know.


Mack


----------



## dubious judas (Sep 23, 2010)

@johnnymo, I think you just can't see it from that angle. My car has that "weld" and still made the noise. I don't know what we're still debating though because I took mine in and had it fixed under that TSB number so case closed, right?


----------



## mymagoo (Oct 9, 2010)

Can someone post a pic or scan of the actual work order with the TSB 51-10-01 listed when they had the car fixed??

Dealer here has no record of this fix. Grrrrr


----------



## raatid (Dec 2, 2010)

Sorry guys, jus thought by sharing what is in my head CC owners would have further confirmation that the CC is a fabulous looking machine, so much so that I was thinking I would definitely make a purchase if I could find on this forum equal number of ppl who have not had rattles as they who have. "Good luck with that" I guess. 

The CC is different frm the X6, obviously. Even a golf is different frm a passat. I compared the CC to the X6 purely for aesthetic reasons, and not for the reason of class or performance. In terms of class, i care very little about the badge on a car; I would drive hyundai for the rest of my life if they can give me a beautiful coupe with a sound built. when I sit in a car, I am the one with the name; the car should be no more than a beautiful and proper arrangement of metal, rubber, plastic, and leather that gets me frm point A to B without hiccups. And, even tho M extremely delighted to listen and observe, as often as I can, the guys who r always tweaking and tuning something for better performance, M not excited about performance for myself. 

So, styling and quality are my only interest. Thumbs up to those who can overlook the alleged rattles of the CC. Since, as someone pointed out earlier, fuel pump failures r better to live with than rattles (easier diagnosed and only occasional), I will be going with the X6.

Thank u all


----------



## 432828 (Nov 21, 2008)

mymagoo said:


> Can someone post a pic or scan of the actual work order with the TSB 51-10-01 listed when they had the car fixed??
> 
> Dealer here has no record of this fix. Grrrrr


+1


----------



## dubious judas (Sep 23, 2010)

mymagoo said:


> Can someone post a pic or scan of the actual work order with the TSB 51-10-01 listed when they had the car fixed??
> 
> Dealer here has no record of this fix. Grrrrr


I have the paperwork still but no scanner at my place, will have to do it at work on Monday, sorry.


----------



## pqerpqer (Nov 21, 2010)

i have that piece - have not had it to dealer for this problem (which I have) so this "fix" is not working.....


----------



## HornetHandler (Oct 25, 2010)

HornetHandler said:


> johnnymo:
> 
> Good eyes ... Excellent find!
> 
> ...




I just checked my 11 CC. I have the brown strip that runs the width of the upper shelf as indicated in the photo above. This piece has been there since new as there's been no work done (to my knowledge) to the vehicle. The material, however is not metal. It is a thin piece of brittle fibre type material that is somehow bonded/glued to the metal surface above it. The entire strip, and not just its perimeter, appears to be bonded to the metal. I verified that the strip is not metal by prying a small bit of it away. The material came away with moderate prying from a flat tip screwdriver and it (the material) immediately broke into small pieces. I pried away a piece about 1/16 to 1/4'" wide. 

Not sure where this leaves us. It's not likely that this piece of material is strong enough to prevent the vehicle from flexing. However, I'm not a materials or structural expert, so hopefully someone can weigh in with an expert opinion.



Mack


----------



## Daze513 (May 25, 2010)

That brown material is a kind of tar/rubbery material that is used throughout the chassis of cars. It's mostly visible on the trunk and several spots under the car where the chassis is exposed. Again, my car had that brown material since day one.


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

dubious judas said:


> @johnnymo, I think you just can't see it from that angle. My car has that "weld" and still made the noise. I don't know what we're still debating though because I took mine in and had it fixed under that TSB number so case closed, right?


My friend's CC had the weld in fix in July and the noise came back in Oct. We believe the mesh looking piece was the fix.


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

Daze513 said:


> That brown material is a kind of tar/rubbery material that is used throughout the chassis of cars. It's mostly visible on the trunk and several spots under the car where the chassis is exposed. Again, my car had that brown material since day one.


Based on the color alone, what ever the brown piece is, it was added after the car was built. IMO, VW has known of this issue for quite some time and has done the repair, on some prior to sale.


----------



## HornetHandler (Oct 25, 2010)

johnnymo said:


> Based on the color alone, what ever the brown piece is, it was added after the car was built. IMO, VW has known of this issue for quite some time and has done the repair, on some prior to sale.



johnnymo

Not doubting you, but wondering why you are so sure that the brown material was added after the vehicle was built. You said that "Based on the color alone it was added after the car was built." Can you elaborate why the colour indicates to you that the brown piece was added after the fact???

Thanks,

Mack


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

HornetHandler said:


> johnnymo
> 
> Not doubting you, but wondering why you are so sure that the brown material was added after the vehicle was built. You said that "Based on the color alone it was added after the car was built." Can you elaborate why the colour indicates to you that the brown piece was added after the fact???
> 
> ...


Mack,

When a car is assembled at the factory all of the inner structure is painted at the same time, in an automated process. Of course this only includes vehicles that are mass produced. In some cases the inner structure is left covered in one a the base coats only. In the case of the dark brown piece in photio one of my post above, it's obvious that this piece was added and painted after the inner stucture assembly was painted. Look at the paint color on all sides of the dark brown piece. 

My friend's white CC has the mesh looking piece however, the piece is metal that has been been sprayed with a rubberized coating, followed by a white base coat. Again, the dark brown piece in pic one was not installed during initial assembly. 

Hopefully this answers your question. 

I'm extremely impressed by the CC. Considering the bang for the buck factor, the base CC has to be at the top. IMO, VW is, and has been aware, that during the initial assembly process, there is an issue in the package tray area that is causing the noise so many are experiencing. I believe that this issue has been dealt with in 2011 models. but not sure about this. Again, my friends 2010 CC has less than 6500 miles, has the weld in fix and the noise returned 2 month later. Needless to say, after giving VW numerous attempts to repair this issue without success, my buddy is not having much fun. 

Hope nobody else has to deal with this.


----------



## HornetHandler (Oct 25, 2010)

johnnymo said:


> Mack,
> 
> When a car is assembled at the factory all of the inner structure is painted at the same time, in an automated process. Of course this only includes vehicles that are mass produced. In some cases the inner structure is left covered in one a the base coats only. In the case of the dark brown piece in photio one of my post above, it's obvious that this piece was added and painted after the inner stucture assembly was painted. Look at the paint color on all sides of the dark brown piece.
> 
> ...




johnnymo:

I just got off the phone with the dealership and VW Canada. They're both telling me that there are no TSBs or recalls on the 2011 CC, and that all necessary work on the 2011 CC is carried out at the factory prior to delivery to the dealership. Also, in cases where additional work is required subsequent to delivery to the dealership and prior to delivery to the customer, a work order is opened at the dealership to direct and record all required work, and the information becomes part of the permanent record set of the vehicle in question.

I looked very closely at the brown strip in question. It is not painted with a white base coat as is the case with your friends vehicle, and in my opinion--based on what VW and the dealership is saying, as well as my experience in manufacturing and assembly, the piece on my 2011 was installed at the factory. It just doesn't make sense to install it after the fact when VW knows that the piece is part of the design spec. for the vehicle. The factory is the obvious best place to do it and, again in my opinion, the workmanship, i.e., the placement and neatness is also a strong indication that the work was carried out during manufacture.

Regardless, the piece does not appear to addressing the noise--if that's even its purpose--so it's all academic.

What I tried to find out was: what did VW actually do to try to fix the problem? However, neither VW or the dealership has a record of the TSB (51-10-01) which is supposed to address this issue.

Does anybody have a copy of the actual TSB???


Mack


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

HornetHandler said:


> johnnymo:
> 
> I just got off the phone with the dealership and VW Canada. They're both telling me that there are no TSBs or recalls on the 2011 CC, and that all necessary work on the 2011 CC is carried out at the factory prior to delivery to the dealership. Also, in cases where additional work is required subsequent to delivery to the dealership and prior to delivery to the customer, a work order is opened at the dealership to direct and record all required work, and the information becomes part of the permanent record set of the vehicle in question.
> 
> ...


My friend's CC is white in color., thus the white rubberized base coat. The piece, in question on the CC in picture number one, clearly has been painted dark brown. With regard to the 2011 model it is very possible that the piece in question was installed at the factory, after the initial build. I have no idea, other than the dark brown piece was installed after the inner structure was painted initially. 

I've never claimed that there was a TSB for this issue. What I know is that VW is aware of the issue and has been at least for months if not longer. My friend's CC had the weld in/paint it fix some months ago. When the car was taken back to the dealer, after the noise returned, the service writer advised that they had done the fix on at least a 1/2 dozen CC's in the mean time. 

I don't claim to know what the problem is, or how VW is handling others with this issue. I can only speak about one CC that has been in for the weld in fix and had the noise come back within months. 

If you're not experiencing the package tray noise with your 2011, I'm not sure why the concern. There are more than enough members in this thread who are or who have experienced the rattle/noise that this thread is about. 

I just happen to notice pictures of two different vehicles that showed a slight difference in build and pointed it out. Also, you asked how I knew than the dark brown piece was installed later, and I answered the best I knew how. No desire to engage in a pissing contest about this or any other issue. 

Have a great day Mack and enjoy your CC. 

PS VW continues to be very secretive about what is actually being done to correct this problem. I suspect there might be some concern on VW's part.


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

Sorry Mack 

Thought I was responding to you. My apologies.


----------



## camarkim (Mar 11, 2004)

FWIW: I have around 4800 miles now and the noise vanished as mysteriously as it started. I have not taken it to the dealer yet because I wanted to wait until more people had experiences at the dealer for this. Anyway, gone for now but I expect it to come back someday (unless the weld/joint has loosened itself over time or something. We'll see.) 

FWIW: my 2010 had the brown strip installed from the factory.


----------



## HornetHandler (Oct 25, 2010)

johnnymo said:


> My friend's CC is white in color., thus the white rubberized base coat. The piece, in question on the CC in picture number one, clearly has been painted dark brown. With regard to the 2011 model it is very possible that the piece in question was installed at the factory, after the initial build. I have no idea, other than the dark brown piece was installed after the inner structure was painted initially.
> 
> I've never claimed that there was a TSB for this issue. What I know is that VW is aware of the issue and has been at least for months if not longer. My friend's CC had the weld in/paint it fix some months ago. When the car was taken back to the dealer, after the noise returned, the service writer advised that they had done the fix on at least a 1/2 dozen CC's in the mean time.
> 
> ...



johnnymo


I think it's logical to assume that some pre 2011 models had the fix done post factory, and that the 11s are being done at the factory, but don't know for sure. To my knowledge, no post factory work was done to mine.

The TSB is from this thread. It's been mentioned a couple of times, but we have yet to actually see it.

Thankfully I'm not having the problem yet. I have just over 2.5K now so the car is still pretty new. I'm very interested, though because it seems to be prevalent throughout the fleet. I keep track of all the issues and fixes I find for reference down the road should I have a problem. Troubleshooting is in my blood, I did it for 32 years and can't stop. Maybe I need help.

Take care, johnnymo


Mack


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

HornetHandler said:


> johnnymo
> 
> 
> I think it's logical to assume that some pre 2011 models had the fix done post factory, and that the 11s are being done at the factory, but don't know for sure. To my knowledge, no post factory work was done to mine.
> ...


Glad all is well with your CC. 

Merry Christmas to all.


----------



## dubious judas (Sep 23, 2010)

Finally got around to scanning my work order from when I had this fixed. Hopefully this works.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/44846542/Vw-Work-Order


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

dubious judas said:


> Finally got around to scanning my work order from when I had this fixed. Hopefully this works.
> 
> http://www.scribd.com/doc/44846542/Vw-Work-Order


Hopefully this fix is permanent. Please keep the this thread advised.


----------



## dubious judas (Sep 23, 2010)

johnnymo said:


> Hopefully this fix is permanent. Please keep the this thread advised.


Its been about 2 weeks now, haven't heard anything at all, pretty sure they nailed it.


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

dubious judas said:


> Its been about 2 weeks now, haven't heard anything at all, pretty sure they nailed it.


Great news. 

Again, please keep us informed if anything changes. 

PS. I just noticed that I'd better start proof reading my posts prior to hitting the submit button. Lol The other forums where I post allow edits.


----------



## M Diddy (Sep 25, 2002)

Same with me. 3 weeks since the repair and not one pop or creak heard. 

The TSB definitely fixes the issue.


----------



## jonyrace (Jun 16, 2009)

Mine took months to return so it may be prudent to keep your ears open from time to time. It came back very slowly and now is happening constantly. 

I do hope that no one has it return...its very frustrating


----------



## mymagoo (Oct 9, 2010)

Had mine done yesterday with the mentioned TSB. 
Seems quiet so far. Looks like a hard type of material that they added to the shelf area in the trunk.


----------



## HornetHandler (Oct 25, 2010)

mymagoo said:


> Had mine done yesterday with the mentioned TSB.
> Seems quiet so far. Looks like a hard type of material that they added to the shelf area in the trunk.



Can you post some pictures?


Mack


----------



## _ANARCHY_ (Dec 14, 2008)

Well I put mine in the shop last week for the 20k mile service along with a list of the rattles, issues, suspension problems, brake issues, transmission issues, and the drl problems. 

They did the 20k mile service and said everything was ok with that. They tried to isolate and fix the rattles, think they made a few worse than before, but they did sort of get the back deck rattle to be quieter. Still debating about getting rid of it this weekend, but have to see what it is worth on trade. 

The suspension on the front end was screwed up, bushings had to be replaced and some other parts (which should not have been worn at 20k miles) along with having to replace 2 tires because of it. Still going to fight VW over warranty on those. We will see. 

They said the brakes were normal and not causing issues yet when I step on them they pull the car to the right, sometimes worse than others. Did a reprogram on the transmission, has not recreated the problem, so hope they fixed that. It was very jerky and popped from time to time when coming to a complete stop/or rolling stop and then taking off again. They said all the DSG trans do that but I drove another CC on the lot and it never did it. 

And the drl issue. Got in my car last week, started it and the drl light on the dash flashed at me. Had to replace my headlights, 2nd time now. Something is causing them to burn out, rapidly. One headlight went out on a night trip and I was NOT happy.. They said bulbs burn out. WTF? 

Oh well, so still have rattles and some other issues but going to look at a few vehicles this weekend to get a feel for what I need to go. 

Also dealer could not find the TSB on the rear deck rattle and I even showed them this post on my phone. Think they are clueless.


----------



## mymagoo (Oct 9, 2010)

_anarchy_,
You have some issues with your car. Hope you get therm ironed out. I too am still on the fence about keeping the cc or not. 
I also had both rear tail light bulbs go out and one of the headlight bulbs. Whats with the bulbs on the CC? 

mark,
I will get some pics when I get home from the office.

vw did the tsb on the rear deck shelf and some other rattles around the inst. cluster. (think they just added some felts) I will see what the work order shows.


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

mymagoo said:


> _anarchy_,
> You have some issues with your car. Hope you get therm ironed out. I too am still on the fence about keeping the cc or not.
> I also had both rear tail light bulbs go out and one of the headlight bulbs. Whats with the bulbs on the CC?
> 
> ...


VW added some felt strips to my friend's CC the 3rd or 4th time it was in the shop for the shelf rattle but they really didn't do much if anything to cure the problem. I know he's getting frustrated. If not for the shelf noise, he really likes the car.


----------



## mymagoo (Oct 9, 2010)

here is a pic of my tsb fix. (looks like the others)


----------



## jhignight (Nov 21, 2000)

Our car has developed the pop/creak at the rear crossbrace/parcel shelf. It's very frustrating! I started noticing it after an alignment this week, and suspected the rear suspension. After searching there, I did what a previous poster did, and had my wife drive around the block while I road on the backseats that were folded down and felt along that brace. I could hear and feel the popping coming from that brace, so I sprayed some teflon gun lube all in/around that brace. 

Still pops. So sprayed more throughout the whole area behind the trunk panels, etc... Still pops. :banghead:

BTW, our car has the "TSB Fix" posted above, but hasn't been in the dealer since it was bought, so this was done before we purchased (we purchased it new, and this wasn't mentioned). I checked out the "fix" and it's just a thin, wide layer of JB Weld type epoxy. 

2010 CC Luxury 2.0T, 11K, on coilovers since day 1.


----------



## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

My 2010 CC, built Jan 25 2010, has the black/brown strip from the factory. That strip is just a sound dampening strip, it is not a "weld" or a structural reinforcment, it is not meant to fix the cross-brace noise. My CC starting making the noise after about 5000 miles. A proper fix would be an addtional metal brace, like an aftermarket strut-tower bar.......maybe one of the forum vendors could make such a rear brace for the CC.


----------



## 432828 (Nov 21, 2008)

I had the TSB fix 2 weeks ago. It seemed quieter until a few days ago and I heard the rattle-creaking noise again (just muffled). Very Very annoying along with a new rattle/vibration noise inside the dash - steering column area above 60mph.

Will VW ever get these taken care of? I cant continue to bring my car in every month for a fix that never gets fixed. 

Anyone want to buy a CC w/ 11k miles?? Sheesh!


----------



## HornetHandler (Oct 25, 2010)

wogeboy said:


> I had the TSB fix 2 weeks ago. It seemed quieter until a few days ago and I heard the rattle-creaking noise again (just muffled). Very Very annoying along with a new rattle/vibration noise inside the dash - steering column area above 60mph.
> 
> Will VW ever get these taken care of? I cant continue to bring my car in every month for a fix that never gets fixed.
> 
> Anyone want to buy a CC w/ 11k miles?? Sheesh!



Wogeboy:
Sorry about your troubles

Would you mind posting and telling us exactly what they did, as well as post your work order for TSB 51-10-01? 

We have one other TSB 51-10-01 carried out on dubious judas' 2010 (here is his work order: (http://www.scribd.com/doc/44846542/Vw-Work-Order). However, there's no mention of a part being installed in the trunk area.

To dubious judas':
1. Do have the strip in the trunk?
2. If so, did they install it during TSB 51-10-01, or was it already installed at the factory?

Thanks everybody,


Mack


----------



## dubious judas (Sep 23, 2010)

HornetHandler said:


> Wogeboy:
> Sorry about your troubles
> 
> Would you mind posting and telling us exactly what they did, as well as post your work order for TSB 51-10-01?
> ...


Mack, thanks for asking lol, I keep checking on this thread and it's making me crazy because I don't think people are reading the whole thing.

1. Yes, I have the strip
2. NO, I had the strip when I bought the car, it is NOT the TSB fix. The TSB fix is "massaging the metal seams." I don't know if it's the "official" fix but it's how my dealer has been solving the problem and it works.

Hope this clears up the confusion. :snowcool:


----------



## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

It seems the TSB is prying the end-edge/corner away from the metal below, preventing the two pieces from rubbing when the chassis flexes. I think the car needs a stiffer cross-beam, connecting the tops of the rear wheel-wells.


----------



## HornetHandler (Oct 25, 2010)

dubious judas said:


> Mack, thanks for asking lol, I keep checking on this thread and it's making me crazy because I don't think people are reading the whole thing.
> 
> 1. Yes, I have the strip
> 2. NO, I had the strip when I bought the car, it is NOT the TSB fix. The TSB fix is "massaging the metal seams." I don't know if it's the "official" fix but it's how my dealer has been solving the problem and it works.
> ...



Thanks dubious judas:

I agree: it's very frustrating when you're looking for answers and you get replies that don't relate or answer the complete question. One of the more difficult things to do is communicate in writing. We sometimes assume our audience has the same knowledge base as ourselves and we leave out critical info, or we don't explain our requirement well enough, and sometimes, folks just don't read. I am guilty of all the above but I do try to be clear and concise and use as few words as possible to communicate my ideas. There's an old saying we learned early on. "Please excuse this long brief, I didn't have time to write a short one."

I'm glad to hear the TSB fix is working for you, apparently it's not working too well for Wogeboy. It seems that the TSB instruction is to manipulate, e.g., massage , bend the metal. This kind of activity can vary from case to case, i.e., one tech may apply more or less force than another. I think it's possible that the TSB may be effective, but it will depend on the technique of the individual tech. I've heard nothing of tolerances or measuremsnts regarding the TSB, so it seems quite subjective in its application. If it becomes necessary for me, I think I'll request to watch so that in the future I can go back in and encourage the metal a little more if necessary.

Thanks for getting back,



Mack


----------



## HornetHandler (Oct 25, 2010)

CC'ed said:


> It seems the TSB is prying the end-edge/corner away from the metal below, preventing the two pieces from rubbing when the chassis flexes. I think the car needs a stiffer cross-beam, connecting the tops of the rear wheel-wells.



Thanks CC'ed

I don't suppose you have a good picture of exactly where the pry point is?


Mack


----------



## 432828 (Nov 21, 2008)

Mine already had the strip of material or cloth weld. (whatever you call it).
The dealer replaced a few of the foam inserts around the seats and any loose play in the rear seats. (so they tell me)
It looks like they "may" have pryed a small portion of the shelf tray that others are describing with the screw driver/ wd40 fix.

I am going to pry a bit more myself this weekend on the joint and see if it helps the situation.
I've about given up. 
Will let you know if it helps


----------



## HornetHandler (Oct 25, 2010)

wogeboy said:


> Mine already had the strip of material or cloth weld. (whatever you call it).
> The dealer replaced a few of the foam inserts around the seats and any loose play in the rear seats. (so they tell me)
> It looks like they "may" have pryed a small portion of the shelf tray that others are describing with the screw driver/ wd40 fix.
> 
> ...



wogeboy:

1. As requested above: Would you mind posting the work order for the TSB?
2. Also, would you post pics of the area that was pried?

Thanks, Wogeboy and I hope it all works out for you. Keep us in the loop.



Mack


----------



## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

See post #112, of this thread, for the area that is pried with a screwdriver.


----------



## HornetHandler (Oct 25, 2010)

CC'ed said:


> See post #112, of this thread, for the area that is pried with a screwdriver.



Thanks CC'ed:

Yeah, that's what I figured. I was hoping to see more pics, though. 

Looks like you and I have done some similar work. Which type of vehicles/equipment have you worked on?


Mack


----------



## 432828 (Nov 21, 2008)

I cant get a pic of the area that was pryed. It has the covering over it at the moment. I will try when I get a chance in a few days. It looks just like the pics in the previous posts though. Looks like a mild manipulation of the joint.

TSB- Work order below (they repalced some side padding and inner panels) guess it doesnt do alot a whole lot. What panels and padding I have no idea.


----------



## jhignight (Nov 21, 2000)

Somehow in my playing with lubricant, I forgot about prying the seams. Looking at it now, the trim that needs to come off to get to the seam is held in by the seat-edge by the door. Can someone post how that is supposed to come off, as I don't want to break something removing it...

[edit]

Forget my question above. Investigated the trim and figured out I could just pull it out from behind the seat edge. 

Looking at the crossbrace where it meets the side piece that goes down to the structure of the car, the crossbrace is flared out so they fit together nicely. This is the same location where the dealers are prying. Instead of trying to pry them apart, I instead figured I could use a hammer to "massage" that area flat so there wasn't a lip for the two parts to get stuck on and cause the pop. I know that's a terrible description, but look at the pics below and you can see the line of the flare just to the right of the seam that I am talking about, and you can see where I was hitting. 

This worked to cease my pops/creaks, and after doing the first side I realized I could do the other side without removing the trim and instead just pushed it to the side about 1cm.

Pics are a bit blurry, but I think the idea is there...


----------



## HornetHandler (Oct 25, 2010)

wogeboy said:


> I cant get a pic of the area that was pryed. It has the covering over it at the moment. I will try when I get a chance in a few days. It looks just like the pics in the previous posts though. Looks like a mild manipulation of the joint.
> 
> TSB- Work order below (they repalced some side padding and inner panels) guess it doesnt do alot a whole lot. What panels and padding I have no idea.




Thanks wogeboy; looking forward to the pics.

We now have two different TSBs for the same fix.

1. dubious judas' TSB 51-10-01 (http://www.scribd.com/doc/44846542/Vw-Work-Order), and now; 
2. wogeboy's TSB 53-10-01 in this post.

Not sure what to think now


Mack


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

HornetHandler said:


> Thanks wogeboy; looking forward to the pics.
> 
> We now have two different TSBs for the same fix.
> 
> ...


Mack,

I'm thinking that VWoA has known of this issue for a while. I now know there is a massage the metal fix, an add felt strips fix and a weld and paint fix, and so far none have shown to be 100% effective long term. Seems the problem is actually related to an excess amount of unibody flex in the affected area. I'm starting to feel that VWoA needs to develop and install additional bracing in the parcel shelf area, and that this needs to be done as a recall/TSB ASAP. Hopefully for your sake this has been handled on the 2011 year model.

Merry Christmas all


----------



## HornetHandler (Oct 25, 2010)

johnnymo said:


> Mack,
> 
> I'm thinking that VWoA has known of this issue for a while. I now know there is a massage the metal fix, an add felt strips fix and a weld and paint fix, and so far none have shown to be 100% effective long term. Seems the problem is actually related to an excess amount of unibody flex in the affected area. I'm starting to feel that VWoA needs to develop and install additional bracing in the parcel shelf area, and that this needs to be done as a recall/TSB ASAP. Hopefully for your sake this has been handled on the 2011 year model.
> 
> Merry Christmas all




johnnymo:

Like you said, hopefully VW will do the right thing. 

So far so good, and I'm listening closely.




Mack


----------



## Dion (Aug 30, 2003)

Hm. Anyone ever have their "popping" noise just go away? :sly:

I've been following the thread, have been experiencing the same popping noise coming from the rear "shelf" area every time the chassis flexed, and intended to have my local dealer check it out when I went in for my (first) scheduled service but it's completely gone now. (It's been about 2-weeks since I've heard it.)


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

phattydre said:


> Hm. Anyone ever have their "popping" noise just go away? :sly:
> 
> I've been following the thread, have been experiencing the same popping noise coming from the rear "shelf" area every time the chassis flexed, and intended to have my local dealer check it out when I went in for my (first) scheduled service but it's completely gone now. (It's been about 2-weeks since I've heard it.)


I've heard of the noise stopping for short periods of time. Seems temperature plays a role in the noise level and frequency.


----------



## Dion (Aug 30, 2003)

That's what I initially thought as the popping noise started when it got cold around here, but it hasn't warmed up at all so that kinda throws that idea out the window...


----------



## _ANARCHY_ (Dec 14, 2008)

Well the noise in the back deck has come back somewhat. Still quieter than it was but there. Also have the brake/lurching forward issue. Dealer basically told me they won't look at these items anymore since they have been documented and either fixed or found to be within normal limits. Working a deal to get rid of it, hopefully that will go through.


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

_ANARCHY_ said:


> Well the noise in the back deck has come back somewhat. Still quieter than it was but there. Also have the brake/lurching forward issue. Dealer basically told me they won't look at these items anymore since they have been documented and either fixed or found to be within normal limits. Working a deal to get rid of it, hopefully that will go through.


Not sure I would accept that decision from the dealer. I would contact VWoA to discuss. Just curious what year your car is and how many times it's been to shop for repairs? IMO, the dealer telling you that these issues are normal and they won't look at them again is unacceptable. There are at least two TSB's and three fixes for the back rattle/pop problem discussed in this thread.


----------



## mymagoo (Oct 9, 2010)

Well, my noise came back after a week and a half of the dealer tsb "Fix". I also have a nasty rattle/noise somewhere in the dash. (they did the felt fix for the inst. cluster but that did not work.
They said the DSG issues I was having are within factory specs. (lurching etc..) . 4 light bulbs (3 tail and 1 headlight) that have been replaced (anyone else have bulbs that keep buring out?)

I have had the car 6 months. It is getting traded in at the end of January. So much for german engineering... sheesh! :thumbdown: (although my 06 jetta was trouble free)


----------



## boneshop (Aug 30, 2009)

if it helps....i took delivery of a new 2009 4motion cc in 2009. to this day, i have no rattle, squeaks, creeks. i also have not had any mechanical, electrical, or any other malfunction. :wave:


----------



## Patrick73RS (Dec 31, 2010)

_ANARCHY_ said:


> Well the noise in the back deck has come back somewhat. Still quieter than it was but there. Also have the brake/lurching forward issue. Dealer basically told me they won't look at these items anymore since they have been documented and either fixed or found to be within normal limits. Working a deal to get rid of it, hopefully that will go through.


Where are you going for your service?

I have been to West Houston VW and found them to be very accommodating. I was also told to use them from the local APR distributor. I was told to avoid Archer at all costs. Who are you using???


----------



## _ANARCHY_ (Dec 14, 2008)

johnnymo said:


> Not sure I would accept that decision from the dealer. I would contact VWoA to discuss. Just curious what year your car is and how many times it's been to shop for repairs? IMO, the dealer telling you that these issues are normal and they won't look at them again is unacceptable. There are at least two TSB's and three fixes for the back rattle/pop problem discussed in this thread.


My car was a 2010 and had been in twice for the same issues. Once around 10k miles and then again at 20k miles. 

I am not worried about it anymore, the car is gone and soon we will be getting rid of the jetta we have as my wife is waiting on her BMW that we ordered to come in. 




Patrick73RS said:


> Where are you going for your service?
> 
> I have been to West Houston VW and found them to be very accommodating. I was also told to use them from the local APR distributor. I was told to avoid Archer at all costs. Who are you using???


I was using Clear Lake VW. But I also called Momentum to talk to them after CL VW said these issues were normal. I was told that anything in the computer would tell them these issues had been looked at and deemed WNL (within normal limits) and they most likely would not address them again. 

So I got rid of the car.


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

_ANARCHY_ said:


> My car was a 2010 and had been in twice for the same issues. Once around 10k miles and then again at 20k miles.
> 
> I am not worried about it anymore, the car is gone and soon we will be getting rid of the jetta we have as my wife is waiting on her BMW that we ordered to come in.
> 
> ...


That's one way to deal with Company or dealer who refuse take care of their obligation.


----------



## IAHCC4MOTION (Sep 8, 2009)

Patrick73RS said:


> Where are you going for your service?
> 
> I have been to West Houston VW and found them to be very accommodating. I was also told to use them from the local APR distributor. I was told to avoid Archer at all costs. Who are you using???


Although my 2010 VR6 4-motion hasn't had any of these noise problems I have been pleased with my dealer which is Jersey Village VW off of 290


----------



## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

The pop noise began in my CC when it had about 6000 miles. I was thinking of injecting expanding foam into the entire reinforcement cavity, to stiffen it up. Any thoughts?


----------



## mr2guru (Oct 1, 2006)

CC'ed said:


> The pop noise began in my CC when it had about 6000 miles. I was thinking of injecting expanding foam into the entire reinforcement cavity, to stiffen it up. Any thoughts?



That 'might' work.... Not easy though...

http://octanereport.com/tech/parts-...am-chassis-stiffening.html?pid=742#imggallery


----------



## _ANARCHY_ (Dec 14, 2008)

johnnymo said:


> That's one way to deal with Company or dealer who refuse take care of their obligation.


Actually most would say go to another dealer, find another way to deal with these things etc, so if there is sarcasm in there I missed it.. haha

But that is how I deal with things. Been that way all my life.


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

_ANARCHY_ said:


> Actually most would say go to another dealer, find another way to deal with these things etc, so if there is sarcasm in there I missed it.. haha
> 
> But that is how I deal with things. Been that way all my life.


No sarcasm at all. I completely understand what you did and why. Based on what I've read here, some dealers have been great some not so great. I wouldn't roam the area for a more friendly or accommodating dealer either.


----------



## R-line (May 8, 2010)

*have noise too...*

I just took my R-line for the same problems (rear noise, driver side pillar) Hopefully it gets fixed.


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

R-line said:


> I just took my R-line for the same problems (rear noise, driver side pillar) Hopefully it gets fixed.


 Hope all goes well.


----------



## windsor96vr6 (Aug 3, 2005)

new 2012 Rline. rattle coming from rear trunk area at low speeds. sounds like the upper strut mount is loose....

trunk ride tomorrow


----------



## Epence (Jan 7, 2010)

2012 and already rattle?


----------



## 432828 (Nov 21, 2008)

windsor96vr6 said:


> new 2012 Rline. rattle coming from rear trunk area at low speeds. sounds like the upper strut mount is loose....
> 
> trunk ride tomorrow


That sucks. Welcome to the world of the CC and name that sound.. :banghead:
Hope it gets remedied


----------



## Karrera4 (Feb 10, 2004)

I had a nasty rattle coming from the passenger side rear area...It got worse as it got colder. I wrapped some duct tape around the metal ring that the rear seat attaches to when it is not folded down...in other words, unlatch the rear seats as if you are going to fold them down and wrap duct tape around the metal ring exposed. FIXED! Just thought I would post in case anyone has no checked that yet.


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

windsor96vr6 said:


> new 2012 Rline. rattle coming from rear trunk area at low speeds. sounds like the upper strut mount is loose....
> 
> trunk ride tomorrow


Thought that VW might have fixed this issue for 2012. Sorry to hear that they have not. My friend's CC has been in for this issue numerous times, and the rattle is still there. I'm convinced that VW really doesn't have a fix for this problem.


----------



## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

I think the only real fix will be a supplemental chassis brace under the package shelf. I doubt VW will issue a proper retro-fit fix for the CC. My CC rear brace pops about every minute or so, unless driving over perfectly smooth roads. I am beginning to regret buying a CC over the A4.............. My 1999 A4, with 140,000 miles was a tighter rattle-free car.


----------



## Ali B (Feb 17, 1999)

This is my first time reading this entire thread. My 2010 R-line with 7,500 miles started developing the same symptom of sounds coming from the parcel shelf back a few months ago. I will try the Liquid Wrench spray solution right away. If it doesn't work, I will ask the dealer to attempt a fix at my 10K mile service. In general, I have noticed that the car is not as drum tight as it was when I took delivery. I don't have dash rattles yet, but there are occasional rattle sounds coming from the doors and B-pillars when going over bumps, but my main issue is with the rear deck popping noises. I am hoping the solution offered by Daze513 works. Thanks for the tip!


----------



## Daze513 (May 25, 2010)

Ali B said:


> This is my first time reading this entire thread. My 2010 R-line with 7,500 miles started developing the same symptom of sounds coming from the parcel shelf back a few months ago. I will try the Liquid Wrench spray solution right away. If it doesn't work, I will ask the dealer to attempt a fix at my 10K mile service. In general, I have noticed that the car is not as drum tight as it was when I took delivery. I don't have dash rattles yet, but there are occasional rattle sounds coming from the doors and B-pillars when going over bumps, but my main issue is with the rear deck popping noises. I am hoping the solution offered by Daze513 works. Thanks for the tip!


Like some people mentioned the spray fix may not work for everyone. but I promise that as of now I still DO NOT have any rattle or creaking. I really hope it works for you, but if not go straight to the dealer.


----------



## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

Unfortunatly the spray lubricant "fix" does not address the lack of structural rigidity of the CC. We need an additional chassis reinforcement.


----------



## Daze513 (May 25, 2010)

Absolutely correct. Unfortunately chassis reinforcement is kinda difficult now that the car is built. This is something to address at time of development. All the solutions anybody can possibly come up with, including what I used to remove the noise, would be only to mask the issue and not fully mitigate the chassis flex. 

And to he honest I have no idea what VW can do now. There are no solid anchoring points in the rear for a brace. Welding a piece of additional support metal to the the existing cross member would be almost useless because it may remove noise but the flex comes from the lower points of the chassis. And a front strut brace may not do too much for the rear. Right now like you said, no fix will address the chassis flex, but I think the point here is to mask the unwanted noise. I wish VW would acknowledge something having to do with this but chances seem very slim.


----------



## mymagoo (Oct 9, 2010)

CC'ed said:


> Unfortunatly the spray lubricant "fix" does not address the lack of structural rigidity of the CC. We need an additional chassis reinforcement.


I agree.
One of the reasons I dumped my CC. Picked up an A4 quat. (happy as a clam) .
Still have the Jetta SW and running strong. (and quiet)


----------



## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

I think someone could come-up with a bolt-on chassis brace that attaches at the top of the rear strut mounts, hopefully without welding.


----------



## Ali B (Feb 17, 1999)

*My problem is solved!*

I wanted to give a big thanks to Daze513 for the solution he offered. I bought a can of Liquid Wrench silicone lubricant and did as he suggested. I should mention that my initial attempt didn't work since I just leaned in and did a couple of sprays into each of the 4 holes straight up into the cavity. On Saturday, I spread some newspaper over the trunk liner, climbed into the trunk on my back and sprayed liberally in various directions up into the cavity, just as Daze513 suggested to me.

The annoying popping/crackling sound coming from the rear parcel shelf is gone and I am now a happy camper again. It's amazing how your feelings about the car change when annoying creaking/flexing noises are gone. 

By the way, my brother also has a 2010 R-line that he bought a week after I got my car. His car has the same problem and I plan to try this solution on his car next weekend.


----------



## Daze513 (May 25, 2010)

Ali B said:


> I wanted to give a big thanks to Daze513 for the solution he offered. I bought a can of Liquid Wrench silicone lubricant and did as he suggested. I should mention that my initial attempt didn't work since I just leaned in and did a couple of sprays into each of the 4 holes straight up into the cavity. On Saturday, I spread some newspaper over the trunk liner, climbed into the trunk on my back and sprayed liberally in various directions up into the cavity, just as Daze513 suggested to me.
> 
> The annoying popping/crackling sound coming from the rear parcel shelf is gone and I am now a happy camper again. It's amazing how your feelings about the car change when annoying creaking/flexing noises are gone.
> 
> By the way, my brother also has a 2010 R-line that he bought a week after I got my car. His car has the same problem and I plan to try this solution on his car next weekend.


Great Man!! thats real good to hear. The newspaper was probably a very good idea because when I did mine, the little bit of lube that leaked out fell onto the actual felt on the trunk floor. Now as you drive and it really start to penetrate all the little crevices of that brace it will remove any little sounds left but it seems like you already got it covered. Good stuff man.

Let me know if it works with your brothers car too.


----------



## Tremly (Mar 11, 2011)

Daze513 said:


> Great Man!! thats real good to hear. The newspaper was probably a very good idea because when I did mine, the little bit of lube that leaked out fell onto the actual felt on the trunk floor. Now as you drive and it really start to penetrate all the little crevices of that brace it will remove any little sounds left but it seems like you already got it covered. Good stuff man.
> 
> Let me know if it works with your brothers car too.


Hello all from not so sunny Leicestershire UK.

Just wanted to say thanks to Daze513, I have a 2010 170ps diesel GT CC that had the parcel shelf rattle. My dealer did ask me to bring it in but I thought I would give the lubricant a go first. 

I sprayed a generous amount of lubricant in the suggested holes in hope more than anything but have to say it seems to have solved the issue. One week and counting ...

Daze513 - if you were closer I would buy you a pint.

Thanks
Tremly


----------



## Daze513 (May 25, 2010)

Tremly said:


> Hello all from not so sunny Leicestershire UK.
> 
> Just wanted to say thanks to Daze513, I have a 2010 170ps diesel GT CC that had the parcel shelf rattle. My dealer did ask me to bring it in but I thought I would give the lubricant a go first.
> 
> ...


Haha... No need brother it's all good. Just glad the fix worked for you too. Nice to see a diesel CC owner around here! Good luck and enjoy!


----------



## dcjenkins (Oct 15, 2009)

Daze513 said:


> Like some people mentioned the spray fix may not work for everyone. but I promise that as of now I still DO NOT have any rattle or creaking. I really hope it works for you, but if not go straight to the dealer.


Thanks for posting this fix. I attempted a light spray tonight with the Liquid Wrench, but didn't want to go too heavy because of the smell, which did linger. I have to say that I still have the creaking and popping, but I'll probably give it another go and may attempt to spray into the seamed area as well, in addition to the two holes.

In addition to the trunk issue, I have dash, passenger front door, and passenger pillar rattles. Really really frustrating. I've gotten the dash rattles to quiet down a bit using the the fix on another thread, but it's not a 100% fix. Some days the rattles are very minimum, other days they are really bad.

If anyone has fixes for the door and pillar, please pass them on. There is no other car on the market that offers what this car does for the money, at least new, but these rattles almost have me getting rid of the car.

Thanks again to Daze and other posters.


----------



## Daze513 (May 25, 2010)

dcjenkins said:


> Thanks for posting this fix. I attempted a light spray tonight with the Liquid Wrench, but didn't want to go too heavy because of the smell, which did linger. I have to say that I still have the creaking and popping, but I'll probably give it another go and may attempt to spray into the seamed area as well, in addition to the two holes.
> 
> In addition to the trunk issue, I have dash, passenger front door, and passenger pillar rattles. Really really frustrating. I've gotten the dash rattles to quiet down a bit using the the fix on another thread, but it's not a 100% fix. Some days the rattles are very minimum, other days they are really bad.
> 
> ...


Yea the smell of the lubricant can linger for some time so what I did was I would leave my trunk open with a little fan to air it out in my garage at nights. If you dont have a garage I guess you can still open the trunk but while your around so no one steals anything (if that risk exists were you live).


----------



## GTDuBZ (Apr 28, 2003)

Just came back from Richmond Hill VW. 2010 model was previously owned by the Sales Manager.
They were aware of the issue and the TSB. Entire process took about 2 hours and they also washed the car. Drove a 100km and over some bumps, no rattle so far. Hopefully this remains the same. :thumbup:


----------



## Ali B (Feb 17, 1999)

dcjenkins said:


> I attempted a light spray tonight with the Liquid Wrench, but didn't want to go too heavy because of the smell, which did linger. I have to say that I still have the creaking and popping, but I'll probably give it another go and may attempt to spray into the seamed area as well, in addition to the two holes.


My first attempt was a light spray as well and it didn't work. I PM'd Daze513 and he told me what to do. I spread some newspaper over the trunk liner, crawled inside the trunk on my back and sprayed up liberally in each of the four holes in at least 3 different angles (I didn't spray into any seams). Some of the lubricant dripped down on the newspaper and I used some paper towel to wipe off liquid that dripped down the cross member. The smell goes away completely after 1 or 2 days. My rear shelf is rattle-free going on a week now.


----------



## dcjenkins (Oct 15, 2009)

Daze513 said:


> Yea the smell of the lubricant can linger for some time so what I did was I would leave my trunk open with a little fan to air it out in my garage at nights. If you dont have a garage I guess you can still open the trunk but while your around so no one steals anything (if that risk exists were you live).


 Good idea. I'll give that a shot. Thanks.


----------



## dcjenkins (Oct 15, 2009)

Ali B said:


> My first attempt was a light spray as well and it didn't work. I PM'd Daze513 and he told me what to do. I spread some newspaper over the trunk liner, crawled inside the trunk on my back and sprayed up liberally in each of the four holes in at least 3 different angles (I didn't spray into any seams). Some of the lubricant dripped down on the newspaper and I used some paper towel to wipe off liquid that dripped down the cross member. The smell goes away completely after 1 or 2 days. My rear shelf is rattle-free going on a week now.


 Thanks for the report -- then I'll definitely have to give it another try.


----------



## R-line (May 8, 2010)

R-line said:


> I just took my R-line for the same problems (rear noise, driver side pillar) Hopefully it gets fixed.


 Took it in for the second time since there was noise coming from the driver side B-pillar, now the dealership has the nerve to tell me it might not be covered under warranty since the vehicle has been lowered. The noise was there before lowering the car!!!


----------



## mymagoo (Oct 9, 2010)

R-line said:


> Took it in for the second time since there was noise coming from the driver side B-pillar, now the dealership has the nerve to tell me it might not be covered under warranty since the vehicle has been lowered. The noise was there before lowering the car!!!


 Sadly, their way of getting around the problem without ever having a solid fix for this issue. 
Good Luck


----------



## FlyingFinn (Aug 23, 2004)

Hopefully this info is useful to you guys if it hasn't already been posted. :beer:


----------



## ebi718 (Jan 16, 2011)

Tremly said:


> Hello all from not so sunny Leicestershire UK.
> 
> Just wanted to say thanks to Daze513, I have a 2010 170ps diesel GT CC that had the parcel shelf rattle. My dealer did ask me to bring it in but I thought I would give the lubricant a go first.
> 
> ...


 Excuse my naivety but when you have a rattle, that means you have 1 (or 2) loose parts, no? Lubrication doesn't fix the loose parts; it reduces/eliminates the friction between the parts but doesn't IMO address the structural rigidity issues. I took my CC in to the dealer for this same issue. Though panels, etc were tightened I still hear little creaks here and there but not as bad as before.


----------



## Ali B (Feb 17, 1999)

de_bklyn said:


> Excuse my naivety but when you have a rattle, that means you have 1 (or 2) loose parts, no? Lubrication doesn't fix the loose parts; it reduces/eliminates the friction between the parts but doesn't IMO address the structural rigidity issues. I took my CC in to the dealer for this same issue. Though panels, etc were tightened I still hear little creaks here and there but not as bad as before.


 The noise I was having was not a rattle, but more like a friction or creaking sound. My car has been noise-free for 2 weeks now. Yesterday I sprayed my brother's 2010 CC as well, but I haven't talked to him to find out if it worked for him too.


----------



## Daze513 (May 25, 2010)

de_bklyn said:


> Excuse my naivety but when you have a rattle, that means you have 1 (or 2) loose parts, no? Lubrication doesn't fix the loose parts; it reduces/eliminates the friction between the parts but doesn't IMO address the structural rigidity issues. I took my CC in to the dealer for this same issue. Though panels, etc were tightened I still hear little creaks here and there but not as bad as before.


 Its not that we have loose parts in the crossmember under the rear shelf, its that when forced to flex it causes a friction on the folds of the metal that causes the creaking noise. 

You are absolutely correct about the structural rigidity problems. They WILL continue to exist unless VW offers some sort of fix. This solution I have offered to lubricate the structural members to reduce the binding/unbinding of metal which is causing the noise, is only to reduce/remove the noise. 

The lubricant will never help the rigidity. Nor did I ever say it would. It will only stop the noise that the flexing chassis introduces. Which is the annoying part of flex. Chassis flex exists in everything we drive. Cars, Trucks, Boats, Planes, Bicycles, etc. all have a certain degree of "give" in their structures. Where our CCs fail is that it affects a part that we can actually hear. I bet if you built a race cage into it, we would have no more noise. But who really does that unless its for racing? 

Hell, even our homes have flex. You've never heard your house give a pop/creak in the middle of the night, while the ambient temperature causes it expand/retract? Its all a part of structures. 

Now what VW has to do is just design something to stop the noise. Because no matter what flex will always be present.


----------



## windsor96vr6 (Aug 3, 2005)

food for thought.... 

I recently picked up a 2012 r line here in So Cal.... Same rattles as the rest, mostly rear. Just installed the clear turns, pulled out the fog light grill on drivers side.... found a piece of paper/sticker in the drivers side fender well. 


to my surprise (not really) it was a factory tag with bar codes and a bunch of random numbers/letters. 

low and behold it said 2010 cc.... black pearl effect.... 

so FYI all cc's will have this rattle eventually b/c even 2012's are 2010's with upgraded (lower quality) interior and obviously the new pzev motor. 


so buyer beware... no hard feelings here b/c i had a touareg with 110,ooo and a slipping trans when i traded it. 

willing to bet that the factory made a shizzle ton of chassis' back in 2010 and are running through them to replace in 2013 which is why they released 2012's in feb 2011


----------



## Daze513 (May 25, 2010)

Very interesting. That makes alot of sense. The early release dates fits into that theory very well.


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

windsor96vr6 said:


> food for thought....
> 
> I recently picked up a 2012 r line here in So Cal.... Same rattles as the rest, mostly rear. Just installed the clear turns, pulled out the fog light grill on drivers side.... found a piece of paper/sticker in the drivers side fender well.
> 
> ...


 Unreal but not surprised


----------



## johnnymo (Jul 20, 2010)

johnnymo said:


> Unreal but NOT surprised


 Not surprised. 

Damn I wish this forum would let me edit a post............ errrrrrrrr

Fixed


----------



## Ali B (Feb 17, 1999)

windsor96vr6 said:


> food for thought....
> 
> I recently picked up a 2012 r line here in So Cal.... Same rattles as the rest, mostly rear.


 I did the silicone lubricant spray on my brother's car as well this past weekend and his car is free of the rear shelf squeak. That's 2 cars that the solution offered by Daze513 has worked on. It's the best $4 I ever spent.


----------



## Daze513 (May 25, 2010)

Ali B said:


> I did the silicone lubricant spray on my brother's car as well this past weekend and his car is free of the rear shelf squeak. That's 2 cars that the solution offered by Daze513 has worked on. It's the best $4 I ever spent.


 Glad to hear it has worked out for him as well.


----------



## swarthyweasel (May 21, 2010)

*popping noise in trunk*

I had an absolutely mind numbing popping noise in my trunk for months. (they call it oil canning in aerospace) I finally got the dealership to recognize what it was that I was describing and they had to take it to a bodyshop to get it fixed. It worked for about two weeks and then it started coming back. It has been in the shop for two weeks again now and they are telling me that there is now a known fix for the issue. I haven't driven it yet, but it better be fixed for good this time.


----------



## Faramarz1 (May 13, 2010)

Daze, Can you post pics of your fix again? 

Thanks.


----------



## Ali B (Feb 17, 1999)

Faramarz1 said:


> Daze, Can you post pics of your fix again?
> 
> Thanks.


I think it's still on the second page of this thread. You may also want to read my posts about how I did it to my car.


----------



## Daze513 (May 25, 2010)

Ali B said:


> I think it's still on the second page of this thread. You may also want to read my posts about how I did it to my car.


I tried to copy the same pics from my computer but it doesnt look good from the original post. Ill have to take pics again. Sry for the long wait I just have been busy or forget. itll get done tonight. stay tuned.

Just an update on the topic also, I still have not developed the rattle after I fixed it and have not reapplied any lubricant either. My Girls aunt just got a CC that had the Rattle/creak/popping rear shelf noise. same symptoms as I had before. its definitely chassis flex. Im going to be applying the fix this weekend and will let you guys know if it was successful.


----------



## Faramarz1 (May 13, 2010)

Ali B said:


> I think it's still on the second page of this thread. You may also want to read my posts about how I did it to my car.


Yes. I was going to send you a pm regarding your post. My car just started making the noise last week . I think they mostly start doing this after 5k miles. Is your car still noise free? What is the production date of your car? Mine is April 2010. I also have bunch of other similar noises coming from the dash and doors.


----------



## Faramarz1 (May 13, 2010)

Thanks Daze, Looking forward to your post soon.


----------



## arkijak (Jun 15, 2010)

:
dealer fixed this problem on my car yesterday! thanks for posting the TBS


----------



## sergiommms (Oct 17, 2008)

Daze513 said:


> The cross member
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Can you upload these pics again? They are somehow corrupt.


----------



## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

Update : My constant popping has now turned into a creak when driving slowely over an uneven surface, like a driveway ramp.

Anyone try a Unibrace chassis reinforcement?


----------



## swarthyweasel (May 21, 2010)

Update: Almost six weeks after the second attempt to fix the noise- Still quiet!!:thumbup:


----------



## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

I installed the Unibrace UB chassis reinforcement today, will post if this solves my rear shelf pops & creaks.


----------



## arkijak (Jun 15, 2010)

My dealer fixed this problem with some spray lubricant. I gave them a copy of the TSB number (massage the plates that form the cross-member's joints) which has since been updated to the lube method.


----------



## nolacc (Aug 5, 2011)

*About your rattle*

There is a Service Bulletin out on this issue. I had the same problem and the bulletin referred my dealer to a weld, behind the rear driverside seat. It was driving me crazy and did not crop up until I had about 8500 miles on the car, I am now at 17000 miles and have not heard it again.

Good luck!


----------



## pdunk25 (Sep 16, 2010)

Took my Car in today to get that damn rear rattle fixed that everyone here has or will experience at some point. Hopefully the problem is now fixed. It seems they used TSB 53-11-02.


----------



## david5182 (Aug 11, 2010)

Dropped off my CC at the dealer. They are fixing the creaking above the driver's seat.


----------



## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

CC'ed said:


> I installed the Unibrace UB chassis reinforcement today, will post if this solves my rear shelf pops & creaks.


Update : The Unibrace does not help reduce the chassis creaks from the rear shelf.....


----------



## sergiommms (Oct 17, 2008)

HornetHandler said:


> Thanks wogeboy; looking forward to the pics.
> 
> We now have two different TSBs for the same fix.
> 
> ...



RATTLE IS DRIVING ME NUTS....ANY THOUGHTS??? (EFFECTIVE ONES...)

I used the "liquid wrench" method, to no avail
I sprayed lots and lots of silicone-based lubricant in the holes of the tray just behind the rear seats (red arrows in the pic) and it started draining through the seam (green arrows).










RESULT = (CONSTANT) POPPING IS STILL PRESENT.

Should I apply the "(massage the plates that form the cross-member's joints) which has since been updated to the lube method."
?!?!? IS THERE A FINAL FIX FOR THIS!?!?!?!
:banghead::banghead::banghead:


----------



## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

Spray the lubricant along the length of the seam, where the square brace is spot welded to the flat steel panel. Spraying it inside the holes is hit or miss to get it into the weld seam.

As far as I know, VW has no real fix for this. Making the noise go away with lubricant is not a real fix to the root of the problem (too much chassis flex).

I wish I had never bought a CC over an Audi A4.........


----------



## Epence (Jan 7, 2010)

rear left creaks when I backing down the drive way to the street. :x I think i might need to get a bottle of lube to try this out...


----------



## sergiommms (Oct 17, 2008)

sergiommms said:


> I used the "liquid wrench" method, to no avail
> I sprayed lots and lots of silicone-based lubricant in the holes of the tray just behind the rear seats (red arrows in the pic) and it started draining through the seam (green arrows).


Went at it AGAIN
Different lube... spent almost the whole can... various newspapers to absorve the dripping lube...
Ended up with two straws being spit into the holes because I guess this cannister was very high pressurized......
Now besides the normal creaking I´ll get some more noise from the straws rolling in there I guess...

This time around I sprayed into the holes in all possible angles... (red arrows)
Lube dripped through the seam like crazy... (green arrows)
I also sprayed along the top seam (blue arrows) - BTW mine does not have that black strip









CREAKING SUBSISTS :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:


----------



## Epence (Jan 7, 2010)

maybe i should just live with the minor creak when hitting the dip and driveway (both at an angle). :laugh:


----------



## cancanon59 (Nov 8, 2011)

*cc rear parcel shelf noise*

Hello, I too was experiencing the same cracking,popping noise coming from the cross member under the parcel shelf on my 2010 CC VR6 Sport. And I saw on this forum about VW TSB 51-10-01 to resolve this issue.I was ready to take the car to the dealer and then I read your thread on how to spray Liquid wrench on all the seams and welds of the crossmember and how you swore the noise went away,So I thought let me give it a try before taking time off and taking the car to the dealer. Well,it worked!! I haven't heard any snap,crackle or pop coming from the crossmember in over a week of driving and careful listening! The only downside is the smell of the lubricant for the first few days,but that is slowly going away,a small price to pay for such a simple fix I say. Thanks for your solution! It has really made me enjoy my car again!


----------



## Faramarz1 (May 13, 2010)

cancanon59 said:


> Hello, I too was experiencing the same cracking,popping noise coming from the cross member under the parcel shelf on my 2010 CC VR6 Sport. And I saw on this forum about VW TSB 51-10-01 to resolve this issue.I was ready to take the car to the dealer and then I read your thread on how to spray Liquid wrench on all the seams and welds of the crossmember and how you swore the noise went away,So I thought let me give it a try before taking time off and taking the car to the dealer. Well,it worked!! I haven't heard any snap,crackle or pop coming from the crossmember in over a week of driving and careful listening! The only downside is the smell of the lubricant for the first few days,but that is slowly going away,a small price to pay for such a simple fix I say. Thanks for your solution! It has really made me enjoy my car again!


Can you post a pic of where you exactly applied the Liquid wrench? Thanks


----------



## sergiommms (Oct 17, 2008)

M Diddy said:


> A TSB was released on 11/19/10 that it exactly what he stated. Where the crossmember meets the frame needs to be loosened a bit and lubed.
> If anyone is going to the dealer for this tell them you need:
> TSB 51-10-01
> That's the number listed on my invoice they applied.





dubious judas said:


> This is what the work order said:
> "R/R REAR SEAT R/R BOTH PILLER PADS REMOVED BOTH TRUCK (must have meant trunk) LINERS. PRY BACK SHEET METAL;MASSAGE ALL METAL SEAMS IN TRUNK"





dubious judas said:


> Finally got around to scanning my work order from when I had this fixed. Hopefully this works.
> http://www.scribd.com/doc/44846542/Vw-Work-Order


_(this vw work order mentions TSB 50-10-01)_



HornetHandler said:


> We now have two different TSBs for the same fix.
> 1. dubious judas' TSB 51-10-01 (http://www.scribd.com/doc/44846542/Vw-Work-Order), and now;
> 2. wogeboy's TSB 53-10-01 in this post.





pdunk25 said:


> Took my Car in today to get that damn rear rattle fixed that everyone here has or will experience at some point. Hopefully the problem is now fixed. It seems they used TSB 53-11-02.


That´s 3 TSBs...

Now, according to alldatadiy.com, there are "only" 2 TSBs on this subject:
5311-02 JAN 11 Body/Frame - Creaking/Popping From Rear Of Vehicle
5310-01 DEC 10 Body - Metallic Creak Or Pop Noise From Rear Of Vehicle 

Can someone upload these (2 or 3?) TSBs somewhere?! PLEASE?!


----------



## sergiommms (Oct 17, 2008)

sergiommms said:


> That´s 3 TSBs...
> 
> Now, according to alldatadiy.com, there are "only" 2 TSBs on this subject:
> 5311-02 JAN 11 Body/Frame - Creaking/Popping From Rear Of Vehicle
> ...




I know someone must have a copy or a link lying around
I´m so aggravated with this £§£§@£****!  that I migh might even buy the TSBs online


----------



## earnhardtfan77 (Jan 27, 2009)

Just developed this issue on my 2010. I do have the black strip on mine. Im going to try the liquid wrench solution hopefully before the weekend


----------



## sergiommms (Oct 17, 2008)

sergiommms said:


> Now, according to alldatadiy.com, there are "only" 2 TSBs on this subject:
> 5311-02 JAN 11 Body/Frame - Creaking/Popping From Rear Of Vehicle
> 5310-01 DEC 10 Body - Metallic Creak Or Pop Noise From Rear Of Vehicle


Actually, www.alldatadiy.com only has the description...
...I tried to purchase said TSBs but they don´t have them... 
FAIL
:banghead:


----------



## torpeau (Aug 22, 2009)

*creaking/popping*

Noticed creaking/popping at slow speeds on roads that were not completely flat on my 2010 soon after I got it. Eventually the noises disappeared, but after that plastic trim was replaced on trunk lid a couple weeks ago, I noticed the creaking again. 

The dealer spent hours trying to locate the source, then told me they had found it, but had to have a special lubricant FedExed in to them. Came back two days later and instead of only a few minutes, it took them several hours. They said that the source they had found before did not completely solve the problem. Anyway, finally took a ride with the technician and no more creaking. A very strong shoe polish-type odor from the lubricant, but that went away after a day.


----------



## f.rizzo (Jun 29, 2008)

torpeau said:


> Noticed creaking/popping at slow speeds on roads that were not completely flat on my 2010 soon after I got it. Eventually the noises disappeared, but after that plastic trim was replaced on trunk lid a couple weeks ago, I noticed the creaking again.
> 
> The dealer spent hours trying to locate the source, then told me they had found it, but had to have a special lubricant FedExed in to them. Came back two days later and instead of only a few minutes, it took them several hours. They said that the source they had found before did not completely solve the problem. Anyway, finally took a ride with the technician and no more creaking. A very strong shoe polish-type odor from the lubricant, but that went away after a day.


I've seen this movie before.
The car will stink for about a week (leave the trunk open to help it go away). When the lubricant dissipates, the creaks come back.

Like sergio - I wish I could get ahold of the actual VW TSB's....


----------



## earnhardtfan77 (Jan 27, 2009)

I did the liquid wrench today. I did not get a chance to drive it yet. But I will try and take it around the block tomorrow


----------



## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

I just was at my dealer to buy an oil filter. I asked if they would be so kind as to let me look at the TSB for the creak-fix. They said VW does not allow TSBs to be viewed or released to the public. VW considers TSBs to be proprietary info. I guess VW does not want anyone to know what a POS their cars are....


----------



## zcar4me (May 16, 2011)

For those that have not already filled the cavities with lube, what about the idea of structural foam? Years ago there was an article in Sport Compact Car with Mike Kojima's 300zx. In it, they described using structural foam as a way to stiffen the chassis and reduce noise.
Reading all the posts about the rear shelf and the rattle/creak noise reminded me of it. It sounds like it might be a viable alternative to the lube method.
Just a thought to bounce around. 
Here's a link to someone using it on NICO forums:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/chassis-...t-1-qualitative-result-56k-no-go-t270721.html


----------



## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

I suggested that in an earlier thread in this post....I think a bolt-on cross-brace, like Unibrace makes for a Golf, would solve our problem. I have asked Unibrace to consider making one of these for the CC.


----------



## zcar4me (May 16, 2011)

CC'ed said:


> I suggested that in an earlier thread in this post....I think a bolt-on cross-brace, like Unibrace makes for a Golf, would solve our problem. I have asked Unibrace to consider making one of these for the CC.


The Unibrace you already tried, was that an under brace? How does that^ one differ?
I'm not experiencing the pop noise, but I do hear a slight creak when going up/down driveways at an angle. I'm sure it's only a matter of time, especially since I don't plan on getting rid of my CC for a very long while, that it will be an issue eventually.
In the meantime, I'll try to dig up more info on structural foam.


----------



## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

Unibrace makes two kinds of chassis reinforcements. I bought and installed the under-car brace, which fits all golf based chassis (like the CC), but it did not solve my CCs creak. The undercar brace stiffens the center tunnel. The other type of brace, that Unibrace makes, does not have a version to fit a CC. It bolts behind the back seat of a Golf, and I think would be the kind of thing to fix our CC chassis problems.


----------



## zcar4me (May 16, 2011)

CC'ed said:


> Unibrace makes two kinds of chassis reinforcements. I bought and installed the under-car brace, which fits all golf based chassis (like the CC), but it did not solve my CCs creak. The undercar brace stiffens the center tunnel. The other type of brace, that Unibrace makes, does not have a version to fit a CC. It bolts behind the back seat of a Golf, and I think would be the kind of thing to fix our CC chassis problems.


Right on. With all the attention that this thread is getting, hopefully someone from the aftermarket is paying attention as well. That being said, I'd much rather bolt in a brace (that can be removed) than mess with structural foam.


----------



## sergiommms (Oct 17, 2008)

zcar4me said:


> I'd much rather bolt in a brace (that can be removed) than mess with structural foam.


Especially since there is no way of getting rid of the foam if it breaks or brittles and starts to rattle or whatever (then you´d be left with even more noises....)


----------



## 432828 (Nov 21, 2008)

CC'ed said:


> VW considers TSBs to be proprietary info.* I guess VW does not want anyone to know what a POS their cars are*....


+1

VW just doesn't seem to give a $#! about this problem (and many others)


----------



## swarthyweasel (May 21, 2010)

I don't know if this will make people feel bad or give them hope. But my popping noise is still gone after 6 months.


----------



## Daze513 (May 25, 2010)

swarthyweasel said:


> I don't know if this will make people feel bad or give them hope. But my popping noise is still gone after 6 months.


Same here. I was the one who posted the lube fix and I promise the problem is gone. Or should I say was gone. I loved my CC and honestly had no problems with it, but now have traded in for this:



















I'll still stick around the CC forums though. Many mods to come on this A4.


----------



## jspirate (Jan 15, 2011)

Daze513 said:


> Same here. I was the one who posted the lube fix and I promise the problem is gone. Or should I say was gone. I loved my CC and honestly had no problems with it, but now have traded in for this:
> 
> 
> 
> I'll still stick around the CC forums though. Many mods to come on this A4.


Excellent choice my friend!!!

I've gone the other route and seem to be popping the hood and throwing cash in there. :facepalm:


----------



## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

Excellent choice ! 
Why did you dump the CC ??


----------



## Daze513 (May 25, 2010)

jspirate said:


> Excellent choice my friend!!!
> 
> I've gone the other route and seem to be popping the hood and throwing cash in there. :facepalm:


I was very close to doing the same. But I got a deal on this that I couldn't pass up. Gotta send me some pics man!


----------



## Daze513 (May 25, 2010)

CC'ed said:


> Excellent choice !
> Why did you dump the CC ??


It's wasn't exactly a dump, more like a financial future decision:

- the CC was a lease 36 months/36k miles. 19 months in and I was 38k. Doing some rough math I would have paid 6-7k in miles in overage. My daily commute has multiplied substantially from day of initial lease. 

- Warranty would have been up on the CC in not very long. The Audi is CPO with 100k warranty. It is in absolute perfect condition. I wouldnt have traded my prestine CC if the A4 wasn't in similar condition. 

- I was upside down on my CC about 2k. I pay less on the Audi, with the negative equity from the CC and no money down, than I did for the CC.

Those were the 3 factors affecting my trade. I LOVED my CC and I would still be driving it if the deal wouldn't have been an absolute steal. It is a different car overall. But needless to say I'm very satisfied with my decision.


----------



## sergiommms (Oct 17, 2008)

sergiommms said:


> _(this vw work order mentions TSB 50-10-01)_
> 
> That´s 3 TSBs...
> 
> ...





sergiommms said:


> I know someone must have a copy or a link lying around
> I´m so aggravated with this £§£§@£****!  that I migh might even buy the TSBs online





sergiommms said:


> Actually, www.alldatadiy.com only has the description...
> ...I tried to purchase said TSBs but they don´t have them...
> FAIL
> :banghead:



Nothing yet...
Anyone?!?!

:banghead:


----------



## sergiommms (Oct 17, 2008)

swarthyweasel said:


> I don't know if this will make people feel bad or give them hope. But my popping noise is still gone after 6 months.


...and what worked for you?


----------



## Passat18901 (Jan 16, 2009)

sergiommms said:


> Nothing yet...
> Anyone?!?!
> 
> :banghead:


Check out my TSB post below:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...tle-Issue.-TSB-issued&p=75166792#post75166792

Hopefully this is what you were looking for.


----------



## Donjonson (Apr 24, 2010)

Daze513 said:


> I was very close to doing the same. But I got a deal on this that I couldn't pass up. Gotta send me some pics man!


I am serriously concidering trading my 09 cc lux for an A5. 
Some of the reasons are as follows:

CC has a plethora of rattles,squeaks,creaks, and boings.... yes boings too.
If the road is flat and smooth there are no rattles but a lightly rough road and it is horrible. The noises come from several places in the dash, door trims, seatbelt hardware in the pillar, the trunk area.

frontwheel drive is starting to annoy me. the CC has good power but I think it could really benefit from the quattro that the A5 has

road noise is pretty bad in the CC or atleast much worse than it should be for the price and supposed class of the car.

RNS510 is great but it is buggy and a little slow.

even with SW1140 the backup camera take ~30 seconds to come up after I start the ignition. by that Time I am nearly finished backing out of the spot.

lack of voice controll in the CC


That being said there is a lot I love about the CC and I am happy with the car overall. It just seems a little rough around the edges for what they charge. 

If I can find an A5 with all the tech optinos that my CC has and not increase my montly payment much I will jump on it.

I guess the reason I quoted your was that I was wondering how you like the A4 vs the CC. does the smaller interiror space bother you? how does road noise and rattling compare to the CC?


----------



## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

We are seeking a copy of the actual TSB document, not a work-order that states that the TSB was followed.


----------



## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

Check out the Audi A4 forums....see how many posts there are, in comparison to the CC, complaining about rattles, pops, and creaks....


----------



## CCISFORME (Feb 17, 2012)

CC'ed said:


> Check out the Audi A4 forums....see how many posts there are, in comparison to the CC, complaining about rattles, pops, and creaks....


...to the CC's or the A4's advantage?


----------



## sergiommms (Oct 17, 2008)

Passat18901 said:


> Check out my TSB post below:
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...tle-Issue.-TSB-issued&p=75166792#post75166792
> 
> Hopefully this is what you were looking for.




The TSB number is known.
What would be of great help would be the actual bulletin.


----------



## jbcc (Feb 11, 2011)

Everybody wants an expensive Audi. I must be the ONLY person on this board who does not have enough money to jump from a $30,000 VW to a $50,000 Audi and not think twice about it. Am I the only one with a house payment too?

On a different note, I have some creaks and rattles but I live near Cleveland and this is my experience:

1.) This is not a Buick suspension, it's more of sport suspension so you feel the road a lot more than in a huge old-person mobile.

2.) The roads in northern Ohio are awful and so the car takes a lot of abuse with the type of suspension it has, so I can forgive some rattles.

3.) I have yet to drive anyone's Audi or Ford alike that doesn't have a few squeaks from these roads. So maybe mine is just not as bad as other's?

Just my 2 cents.


----------



## sergiommms (Oct 17, 2008)

CC'ed said:


> We are seeking a copy of the actual TSB document, not a work-order that states that the TSB was followed.


What he said.


----------



## Passat18901 (Jan 16, 2009)

There is a light at the end of the tunnel for the rattle and creaking issue, at least for me.

After tearing down the headliner, tightening everything up, using some automotive foam in key areas and adding some felt padding, my creaks and rattles are gone. Oh yeah, they pulled the seats while they were fixing it, what! 

It's been about 2 weeks without it reoccurring. 

There were visual signs of the rubbing in areas so they did have something to work with after pulling down the headliner. The rest was just a craftsman at work finding a solution to this problem.

What a relief! 

I hope that others will be fortunate enough to find a dealer and techs that will take the time to fully address these issues. We need to send this tech to Germany to show the guys/girls on the line what to reinforce while the car is being built.

That reminds me, I should go back to the dealer and get the tech who work on my car some beer. :beer:


----------



## CCISFORME (Feb 17, 2012)

Passat18901 said:


> There is a light at the end of the tunnel for the rattle and creaking issue, at least for me.
> 
> After tearing down the headliner, tightening everything up, using some automotive foam in key areas and adding some felt padding, my creaks and rattles are gone. Oh yeah, they pulled the seats while they were fixing it, what!
> 
> ...


 While I think it's GREAT that you found a service dept that will go to those lengths, I thought that this being a German car company (I have owned 3 VWs in the past, and can vouch for their "German-ness"), producing cars with these apparent structural issues would be beyond shameful, and corrected at the first hint of evidence. What gives??


----------



## Donjonson (Apr 24, 2010)

jbcc said:


> Everybody wants an expensive Audi. I must be the ONLY person on this board who does not have enough money to jump from a $30,000 VW to a $50,000 Audi and not think twice about it. Am I the only one with a house payment too?
> 
> On a different note, I have some creaks and rattles but I live near Cleveland and this is my experience:
> 
> ...


I hear you. My plan is to find a used A5. For around 30k


----------



## f.rizzo (Jun 29, 2008)

Donjonson said:


> I hear you. My plan is to find a used A5. For around 30k


I hear you too. I found a '09 Benz CLK 550 with 15k miles, still under warranty for $6k less than my CC. 382hp . The car had a $70k window sticker. No back up camera, but as someone else noted...by the time the 510 boots up, I'm already out the driveway and down the street...


----------



## Donjonson (Apr 24, 2010)

f.rizzo said:


> I hear you too. I found a '09 Benz CLK 550 with 15k miles, still under warranty for $6k less than my CC. 382hp . The car had a $70k window sticker. No back up camera, but as someone else noted...by the time the 510 boots up, I'm already out the driveway and down the street...


How'd you find that deal?


----------



## CCISFORME (Feb 17, 2012)

New query for the group on this subject: 

If there's enough flex in this car's unibody to generate the popping noise in the rear parcel shelf area, would it also be enough to cause undue or premature wear in other areas of the car? That is, I would imagine that each flex slightly loosens trim and pulls panels ever so slightly out of line, etc; while that's true for all cars, I'm thinking if there's enough flex in this one to generate such noises, it must be have greater effects in the long term.

We could probably handle treating the noise (liquid screwdriver spray, etc) periodically as long as we were pretty sure that the car overall wouldn't degrade prematurely.


----------



## f.rizzo (Jun 29, 2008)

Donjonson said:


> How'd you find that deal?


Autotrader.com. Set up a search alert and one day it fell into my lap.
Had to have it shipped from Texas to Calif, but the seller split the costs with me.


----------



## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

Seeking updates : anybody who had the dealer "fix" the rear pop/creak issue have it come back?


----------



## jhignight (Nov 21, 2000)

I did the hammer mod on mine and it's never creaked again. That was over 40k miles ago, all done all the way down on my coil overs.


----------



## jspirate (Jan 15, 2011)

jhignight said:


> I did the hammer mod on mine and it's never creaked again. That was over 40k miles ago, all done all the way down on my coil overs.


Still waiting for creaks. I thought 350HP and 350 TQ would cause em, but none yet.

If I do get em... what is this hammer technique? Its sounds very technical


----------



## jhignight (Nov 21, 2000)

Very! Haha!

I whacked the panel where the crease is to prevent the inner panel from hanging on the crease when it flexes. 

Terrible pic, but:


----------



## Aret4Euro (Feb 1, 2011)

Its acctually the stupid rubber piece attacment of the 3rd brake light cover...foam tape is your best friend :thumbup:


----------



## jhignight (Nov 21, 2000)

Not in mine, and many others.


----------



## baye (May 6, 2009)

Just wanted to chime in because I began experiencing the popping/tapping sound a few weeks ago (right after a maintenance service too :screwy: ) as well and it was starting to drive me crazy until I went through this thread and tried the lubricant solution. I simply sprayed the shelf area where the two metal plates overlapped (same area as jhignight's pic above) with some jig-a-loo and the car is now noise-free again. No prying or banging was necessary. I didn't even have to remove the liner! Just spray near the top and the lubricant will seep down along the fold nicely.

Hopefully this is similar to my squeaky window problem. That one was resolved with some simple rubber lubricant too and it's been years now and I'm still squeak-free. 

Big thanks to Daze513 for the original solution. :beer:


----------



## ocZZZ (Mar 1, 2013)

necro-bump. I just wanted to thank the forum/poster for the liquid wrench fix. I had this problem on my 2011 CC with a very bad creaking sound coming from the trunk area. The dealer was unable to fix it (said they did not know the fix). I tried the liquid wrench and the creaking old ship sound is gone. Thanks!


----------



## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

But now your car smells like Liquid Wrench???


----------



## ocZZZ (Mar 1, 2013)

It smelled like liquid wrench for a few days but not any more. Thankfully the creaking is still gone. 




CC'ed said:


> But now your car smells like Liquid Wrench???


----------



## OEMplusCC (Jan 27, 2013)

I had creaking, now it sounds like popping. Are you sure there is no Dealer fix for it? I am going to take it to dealer see what happens.


----------



## ocZZZ (Mar 1, 2013)

There appears to be a dealer fix if you read this thread. However, it doesn't appear to be a fix all and my dealer was not aware of it. Mine has been creak free for about 2 weeks now and the "Eau de Wrench" smell dissipated in about 3 days. I'll report back if the creaking ever returns. 




OEMplusCC said:


> I had creaking, now it sounds like popping. Are you sure there is no Dealer fix for it? I am going to take it to dealer see what happens.


----------



## OEMplusCC (Jan 27, 2013)

Dealer is keeping car as they couldn't resolve problem today. They loosen cross-member joins but it didnt help. Car has to go to bodyshop now. Did anybody have this experience? Maybe possible fix? Thanks for info


----------



## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

There is no proper fix for the rear shelf creaking problem. Spraying lubricant on the seams can make the noise go away, but that is a cover-up fix, the real fix would be an add-on chassis reinforcement to reduce the chassis flex.


----------



## OEMplusCC (Jan 27, 2013)

Thanks CC'ed 

Car is in dealer for two days now. It got moved from mechanic shop to body shop, I wonder what they are going to with it. Should i just call them and tell them to spray it  and call it fixed(for now)


----------



## alexandrudragoman (Jan 17, 2014)

Guys , maybe a more relevant picture i am looking at the pictures you guys posted and i can not figure out how to get there and where to spray.

PS: i have the same problem, dealer has no idea what to do, they wanted to swap my springs and damper from left to right.


----------



## artheb (Mar 17, 2015)

I know it is old thread but wanted to add my two cents to the rear rattle noise. I have bought 2011 CC GT TDI BMT. Once I started driving I also started experiencing those "CC" things (cupped tires, rough ride, rattling rear noise, rattling dashboard) I fixed most of the issues and the one them was the rattling rear noise. After reading this whole thread I looked at the reported TSB 51-10-01. My car has this part already welded so this was not the source of the noise. The issue appeared to be the left back seat not latched properly! I think someone has mentioned that as well. Jyst FYI guys.

Thanks


----------

