# Parker's Big Turbo TT Build



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Hello everyone. I recently acquired a bone stock 2001 225TT. Marcus Aurelius encouraged me to start a build thread in the TT forum because I plan to swap my big turbo motor in this car and hopefully put down some good numbers this year.

I will update this thread as much as possible with changes that are made.

As of right now all I have done is:

1. delete the SAI, EVAP and N112, N249. 
2. BBS RS-GT's.
3. Mounted Precision 725 intercooler
4. Dieselgeek sigma 6 short shifter
5. Haldex flush







And the motor that will be going into it: PAGPARTS V-band 35R, Eurodyne Maestro, 1200cc injectors.


----------



## Rford71 (Sep 1, 2011)

Subscribed


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Welcome to the TT board!

In for updates and some tech discussion with the evolution to AWD.


----------



## [email protected] (Dec 14, 2013)

Nice wheels. Subbed


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I bought a raceline wideband conversion harness so that I could install my wideband ECU from my old car.

The ECU that I have is immo defeated, but I still am concerned that if I swap the ECU into the TT it will not work.

Has anyone ever swapped a Eurodyne ECU from one car to another?


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I bought a raceline wideband conversion harness so that I could install my wideband ECU from my old car.
> 
> The ECU that I have is immo defeated, but I still am concerned that if I swap the ECU into the TT it will not work.
> 
> Has anyone ever swapped a Eurodyne ECU from one car to another?


Why do you still think the Eurodyne ECU won't work? Unless the software is tied to the VIN like GIAC used to do, then all you need is for the Immobilizer to be defeated for it to work.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I think it won't work because I used it in a car already so the ECU recognized the vin number and now it will be recognizing another vin number.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I think it won't work because I used it in a car already so the ECU recognized the vin number and now it will be recognizing another vin number.


Well then that's a question for Eurodyne.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Don't you have to buy a new license from Tapp to register/recognize the new vin? Not entirely sure, but I think that's how it goes when switching Maestro to a new car... but could be wrong.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Don't you have to buy a new license from Tapp to register/recognize the new vin? Not entirely sure, but I think that's how it goes when switching Maestro to a new car... but could be wrong.


That is my concern. I couldn't explain it very well,


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Welcome! -- glad to see someone else going for some big numbers :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

If that ECU came out of a mk4 then it's locked to the VIN.

I once swapped my ECU into a mk4 then back to the TT. I had to mail it to Chris Tapp along with the cable and for no fee he reset the vin registration. Neither my B5 A4 and both TT's don't lock the cable to the VIN, but from experience it seems mk4's do.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Doooglasss said:


> Welcome! -- glad to see someone else going for some big numbers :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
> 
> If that ECU came out of a mk4 then it's locked to the VIN.
> 
> I once swapped my ECU into a mk4 then back to the TT. I had to mail it to Chris Tapp along with the cable and for no fee he reset the vin registration. Neither my B5 A4 and both TT's don't lock the cable to the VIN, but from experience it seems mk4's do.


It sounds like that is what I need to do then. :thumbup:

Suggestions on the best way to contact CTapp? I don't think I can call Canada for free from my US cell. :banghead:


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Can try by email: [email protected]

The easiest way to explain might be over the phone though.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Welcome :wave:

Love the RS-GT's!!!

If you cant get a hold of Tapp, try [email protected] and if you dont get a response in 24 hours send another copy of the email.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I got a response back from chris tapp, it reads as follows:

We do not do mail order tuning and have not for years now, but you should be able to move the ecu to another car because the immobilizer is probably already defeated.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

So sounds like VIN isn't an issue. :thumbup:


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I want to send the ecu out to pagparts to see if he can check it on one of the shop cars. That would be the best way to find out for sure.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I want to send the ecu out to pagparts to see if he can check it on one of the shop cars. That would be the best way to find out for sure.



Or find a local AWP car, or you can send it to me. I'm closer than NY. Lol. Seriously though, I have the 1200cc injectors and driver box from Unitronic, and I have a wideband conversion in two of my TT's, so I could try it for you if that would be easier.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

20v master said:


> ... I have a wideband conversion in two of my TT's


I vote that we get VMG to change Adam's SN from "20v master" to TT pimp.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> I vote that we get VMG to change Adam's SN from "20v master" to TT pimp.


:laugh: And the *3RD* TT is the race car. :screwy:


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

20v master said:


> Or find a local AWP car, or you can send it to me. I'm closer than NY. Lol. Seriously though, I have the 1200cc injectors and driver box from Unitronic, and I have a wideband conversion in two of my TT's, so I could try it for you if that would be easier.


I think the worst case scenario is I wire the car for wideband and install the ecu. If it starts then great. If not then just swap the narrowband ecu back in.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Today I picked up some Amsoil Severe Gear to change the fluid on the rear diff and tranny. God knows how long it's been since the last owner changed it.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

:thumbup::thumbup: 
Do the Haldex fluid change too while you're at it!


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> :thumbup::thumbup:
> Do the Haldex fluid change too while you're at it!


I did the Haldex service last week 

It was weird pumping the fluid up into the Haldex sump. I heard there is a way to pump it in from the top but for the first service I did it the old fashioned way with the caulking gun


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

You heard wrong, unless you want to do the subframe.:laugh:


----------



## DFWSKATE (Sep 6, 2007)

I'm excited to see what you do with this one :beer:


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Today I am tackling the race line wideband conversion harness.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I installed the wideband harness and tried to connect my computer to the ECU to flash a 225 basefile onto the car.

Flashloader will not recognize the ECU so I am going to put the stock ECU back into the car.

I really hope Chris Tapp does not make me pay $500 to use my own ECU again :banghead::banghead::banghead:


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

My 1 ton shop crane showed up in the mail today ready to get to work pulling the motor out of the Racecar.


----------



## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

:thumbup::thumbup:lets see some pics of that racecar


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

You guys will probably laugh but I've used a hoist once on a TT and it was the worst motor pulling experience. I scratched the hell out of the frame rails too.

I use two harbor freight dollies- one under the trans and one under the motor. Two floor jacks under the frame rails on each side of the car. Lower the car until the motor and trans sit on the dollies, unbolt the motor mounts from the trans/motor. Then Jack the car up and slide the motor forward. Of course this is done with the front clip pulled off- I do leave the subframe in place though. Anyway, that's just my 2cents


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Doooglasss said:


> You guys will probably laugh but I've used a hoist once on a TT and it was the worst motor pulling experience. I scratched the hell out of the frame rails too.
> 
> I use two harbor freight dollies- one under the trans and one under the motor. Two floor jacks under the frame rails on each side of the car. Lower the car until the motor and trans sit on the dollies, unbolt the motor mounts from the trans/motor. Then Jack the car up and slide the motor forward. Of course this is done with the front clip pulled off- I do leave the subframe in place though. Anyway, that's just my 2cents


I rarely use a lift, but I have a hardwood pallet that cradles the angle of the oil pan perfectly. I do the same as you, disconnect axles and driveshaft, then lower the car down onto the pallet with a furniture dolly under it so I can roll it out later. It's just easier IMO and you don't have to deal with leveling the motor/trans and having a big hoist in the way.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I'll let you guys know how it goes!


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I pullled the motor out today. Easy as pie with the engine hoist. Tranny will be separated then I will start taking it apart to be cleaned, decked and honed.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I noticed that one of my rear lower control arms had a slight bend in it from god knows what.

I plan to throw on some H&R coilovers at some point when funding allows.

In the meantime after doing a lot of research I decided to order a set of upper and lower control arms from MadMax. This will allow me to have the adjustability down the road to correct for toe and camber plus getting rid of the bent factory arms. :thumbup:


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Figuring out battery relocation today. I want to put it right behind the seats if possible. I just have to make sure I can tighten the bolts under the car.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

I'd say rotate it 90* and mount it on passenger side of the trunk area (weight distribution), it'll be less intrusive that way :thumbup:


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

l88m22vette said:


> I'd say rotate it 90* and mount it on passenger side of the trunk area (weight distribution), it'll be less intrusive that way :thumbup:


Doesn't the passenger side sit lower than the drivers side because of the gas tank?


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

If the counter weight is removed, the battery should be mounted on the rear drivers side to balance out the weight better.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

DeckManDubs said:


> If the counter weight is removed, the battery should be mounted on the rear drivers side to balance out the weight better.


The counter weight is behind the rear bumper right?


----------



## Gulliver22 (Sep 16, 2014)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> The counter weight is behind the rear bumper right?


Yes, on the drivers side, behind the bumper.

I'm thinking of putting mine in the wheel well, since Im getting rid of the spare tire. 

Also, if there are any V6 owners out there that would like to post some detailed pictures of the battery mount from it, it would be appreciated!


----------



## Rford71 (Sep 1, 2011)

The 3.2 trunk set up is totally different, my car doesn't even have a spare tire. They give you a hey Jack some tire flat filler and a pump.




























The counterweight and battery are on the same side, so I really don't think it matters what site you melted on. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## velocitychris (Jul 16, 2011)

20v master said:


> I rarely use a lift, but I have a hardwood pallet that cradles the angle of the oil pan perfectly. I do the same as you, disconnect axles and driveshaft, then lower the car down onto the pallet with a furniture dolly under it so I can roll it out later. It's just easier IMO and you don't have to deal with leveling the motor/trans and having a big hoist in the way.





Doooglasss said:


> You guys will probably laugh but I've used a hoist once on a TT and it was the worst motor pulling experience. I scratched the hell out of the frame rails too.
> 
> I use two harbor freight dollies- one under the trans and one under the motor. Two floor jacks under the frame rails on each side of the car. Lower the car until the motor and trans sit on the dollies, unbolt the motor mounts from the trans/motor. Then Jack the car up and slide the motor forward. Of course this is done with the front clip pulled off- I do leave the subframe in place though. Anyway, that's just my 2cents





formerly silveratljetta said:


> I pullled the motor out today. Easy as pie with the engine hoist. Tranny will be separated then I will start taking it apart to be cleaned, decked and honed.


Love reading all these points of view. First time ever pulling a motor was this car and used a block and tackle to winch the whole block and tranny together and then rotated it onto an engine stand. But now I have to get the motor back in and looking for different ideas.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I finally decided on a battery tray. This aluminum one is built by a small private machine shop out in Cali.

The battery will be mounted on the driver side of the trunk near the rear seats. I will update with pics once it is completely installed.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Today I installed a Black Forest heavyweight shift knob. The previous owner had installed a fake carbon fiber knob it was hideous. This one is much heavier and matches the aluminum trim on the TT perfectly. Way to go BFI !!!


----------



## [email protected] (Sep 28, 2005)

Im glad you like the knob! Looking at your install pictures it looks like the coin insert has gotten a bit tarnished. The inserts are sliver plated and can tarnish - but a brush up with some silver polish will brighten it right up!


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> Im glad you like the knob! Looking at your install pictures it looks like the coin insert has gotten a bit tarnished. The inserts are sliver plated and can tarnish - but a brush up with some silver polish will brighten it right up!


Yes the pictures make it look a bit gold colored but in person you can't tell. The knob feels excellent!


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I spent some time this weekend removing the counterweight behind the rear bumper and the front swaybar.

Madmax control arms should arrive on monday so the H&R coilovers will be going in next week


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Looking good :thumbup:

The battery in the back should help with the counterweight removal. I still run the battery in the front and noticed once the counter weight was removed that the back steps out a good bit more on lift throttle over-steer.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Today i painted the old aftermarket wheels that came with the car. They are 17s and I plan to use them as spare track wheels


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I spent some time this weekend removing the counterweight behind the rear bumper and the front swaybar.
> 
> Madmax control arms should arrive on monday so the H&R coilovers will be going in next week



:thumbup::thumbup:




DeckManDubs said:


> ... once the counter weight was removed that the back steps out a good bit more on lift throttle over-steer.


which is not necessarily a bad trait if you ask me!


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

:laugh: @ cutting the front swaybar out.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

20v master said:


> :laugh: @ cutting the front swaybar out.


That bitch wouldn't come out I had to drop the subframe too


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

20v master said:


> :laugh: @ cutting the front swaybar out.





formerly silveratljetta said:


> That bitch wouldn't come out I had to drop the subframe too


No shame in that, I did the same... plus the damn thing was freeloading disconnected for the longest. :thumbup:


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I had to order some new dust covers from maximum Motorsports because the old ones were cracked and wore out. 

I finally had time to finish the Coilover install last night. Here are the results. All the way down in front and perches in the rear. Probably going to raise the rear up a bit but other than that I am happy.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

A bit low for my taste but looking good. Spacers next!


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Well I actually did a stud conversion on all 4 corners but the studs I bought aren't long enough for spacers. I'll get some longer ones so I can put the spacers back in.

Meanwhile the RSGTs will be getting tore down for a refresh.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Did some weight reduction while running the cables for the battery relocation


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Last night I got busy and installed both front Raxles. The previous owner had some cheap aftermarket axle on the passenger side and the stock axle on the driver side had seen its better days it was making some noise and I could feel a lot of play in the inner joints. I also installed all 4 Madmax control arms.

New 10.9 zinc plated bolts and OEM nuts as well. I had to drop the forward 2 subframe bolts to get the stock inner bolts out, but other than that it was pretty easy. I will be taking it in for an alignment today.


I also got some more work done on the battery relocation. The battery tray is in and the power wire has been ran to the engine bay. I have to order some side mounting posts for the optima battery then I will complete the install. Let me know what you think :thumbup:


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Good stuff Richard! :thumbup::thumbup: :beer:


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

One thing I may add, for non-shouldered hex-head bolts used in suspension applications, a washer is recommended to be used. 

Good call parting ways with the stupid vag stretch bolts! I have done myself and always feel like a winner when I have to remove/reinstall them. :beer:


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

It's is coming together nicely. Very clean battery install.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Nice hardware all around. Love the tag. :laugh:


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I took it in for Alignment yesterday and the rear was set up perfectly.

However, one of the tie rod ends on the front is seized and the alignment tech could not break it free. 

Looks like I will be replacing both tie rods this week. She should feel like a brand new car after that


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

More progress this weekend. I mounted the IE Dual 044 Surge Tank behind the rear bumper. I am still figuring out the plumbing for it. 

I realize some may take issue with placement behind the rear bumper in the event of an accident, but there is really nowhere else to put it.


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

I love your work, but that just looks plain dangerous. It doesn't look like it would take much of a bump to compromise that area.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

ramone23456 said:


> I love your work, but that just looks plain dangerous. It doesn't look like it would take much of a bump to compromise that area.


Sorry but there is literally nowhere else to put it except inside the car. On my old jetta I mounted it on the passenger side frame rail in the engine compartment. I don't like it exposed to the heat up there either.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Richard, I'm not a fan of the location. How about under the spare hump? There is a spacious cavity under there that could house a bracket for the surge tank. I think there are some emissions stuff in there too (charcoal canister IIRC) and if the available space is not enough, you can always ditch the emission components to free up some real estate. Honestly man, fuel components must be inside of the crumple zone, or you're rolling a dice. :beer:


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Richard, I'm not a fan of the location. How about under the spare hump? There is a spacious cavity under there that could house a bracket for the surge tank. I think there are some emissions stuff in there too (charcoal canister IIRC) and if the available space is not enough, you can always ditch the emission components to free up some real estate. Honestly man, fuel components must be inside of the crumple zone, or you're rolling a dice. :beer:


Underneath the car? Not much ground clearance under there.

I think the charcoal canister is inside the passenger side fender.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

How about you ditch the traverse muffler and put it there? Lots of space, a heat a shield already there, and you can drop weight and simplify/straighten the exhaust path with a single tip. Win, win, win.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

20v master said:


> How about you ditch the traverse muffler and put it there? Lots of space, a heat a shield already there, and you can drop weight and simplify/straighten the exhaust path with a single tip. Win, win, win.


You mean switch to single tip valence?

The whole exhaust is getting redone but I was going to keep the dual tips for looks. Decisions decisions


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> You mean switch to single tip valence?
> 
> The whole exhaust is getting redone but I was going to keep the dual tips for looks. Decisions decisions


Yes. It's what I'm doing on my project. Form follows function. :thumbup:


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Get with the program biatches, who's serious about performance and still run a transverse SUV muffler? I forgot for a second that the 225s came that way. My 225 rear end:


----------



## Tempes_TT (Oct 24, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Get with the program biatches, who's serious about performance and still run a transverse SUV muffler?


Can I whore too?! 










LOL 

I like where all this is going though - keep it up! :thumbup::beer:


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

^^^ and BTW, if the shield is removed, the empty spare hump space I was talking about should be revealed. If the surge tank can fit in there, it should be a nice secure tuck-away spot.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> ^^^ and BTW, if the shield is removed, the empty spare hump space I was talking about should be revealed. If the surge tank can fit in there, it should be a nice secure tuck-away spot.


The suitcase muffler is going away. I was planning to have the shop make a split Y and keep it straight piped. 

I will take some measurements this weekend and see what can be done.


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Nice Richard I had no idea you have a TT now. Been awhile sense I have been on here 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Nice Richard I had no idea you have a TT now. Been awhile sense I have been on here
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I picked it up in January. Thanks for checking in!


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Made some more progress tonight on relocating the surge tank to another location.

I cut out the suitcase muffler and started getting to work on removing the charcoal canister.

There are 3 lines attached to the charcoal canister. 1 big white line that goes back up to the filler neck and 2 smaller lines (1 black, 1 white) and I cannot tell where they go or what to do with them???


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

After further investigation I think the 2 small lines from the charcoal canister run to the front of the car. The fat white line is the vent from the tank.

I would like to remove the 2 small lines completely and leave the fat line open to vent.

Can anyone confirm this?


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> After further investigation I think the 2 small lines from the charcoal canister run to the front of the car. The fat white line is the vent from the tank.
> 
> I would like to remove the 2 small lines completely and leave the fat line open to vent.
> 
> Can anyone confirm this?


Yes, the small 2 are the EVAP lines. Not sure on the big one being left open to vent.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Yes, as I mentioned to you Richard (don't think you'll find much feedback on this since most people don't go that far with the deletes), the tank vent hose can remain open. The evap lines can be looped together, or plugged, or totally removed. I've never had a problem with the tank venting to the atmosphere in years, so you're safe to do that (there is an internal valve that only allows venting when a certain pressure is reached, therefore no risk of outside contamination).


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I will remove the 2 small evap lines completely then. Still working on fabricating a mounting bracket for the surge tank. With the tank up inside that pocket I will be able to keep dual exhaust!


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I will remove the 2 small evap lines completely then. Still working on fabricating a mounting bracket for the surge tank. With the tank up inside that pocket I will be able to keep dual exhaust!


:thumbup:


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> :thumbup:


:thumbup::thumbup: Winning. I guess I know what I'm removing from my project car the next time I get to work on it. :laugh:


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I finally got some new stinger battery terminals so I can complete the battery relocation. They are dual 1/0 or 4 gauge terminals with plastic covers so nothing can touch them in the trunk.

I rotated the battery around and hid the wiring inside the side panel of the trunk. 

The engine bay wires will be cleaned up slowly as things progress. I haven't decided where I am going to put everything yet.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I finished up today by drilling the stock swaybar for adjustability and sanding it down and repaint.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Made some more progress over the weekend.

First, I deleted the oem power steering reservoir and the oem power steering cooler line that runs along the bottom of the front radiator.

I replaced the oem reservoir with an aluminum tank. 6an braided lines for the return to the tank. Right now all I do is drive to work and back so no track days. I will add a bar and plate power steering cooler above the intercooler on the front of the car later on to keep things cool for track days.

Second, I was able to finish relocating the dual 044 surge tank. It fit perfectly in the recess under the spare tire. As soon as I order some more fittings I will be able to plumb it in.

Lastly, I deleted the oem coolant ball and replaced it with an aluminum overflow tank with billet radiator cap from my old Racecar. 

To go along with it I have a goza racing aluminum coolant recovery tank mounted next to it so that no coolant will ever be lost just like the stock system.

I also installed VF engineering solid aluminum motor mounts. No engine movement :thumbup:

At this point I only have a few more things to do before I can get started on rebuilding my old engine for transplant


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

More pics of the coolant overflow and recovery tank


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Perfect fit on the surge tank Richard! Nice touch on the rear swaybar too, happy to see that this little mod is catching on. :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Doing work! Makes me wish I could work on mine.


----------



## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

I see you've moved on from "drag racing" to the real fun stuff. :thumbup::thumbup:

Make sure when finally start learning the racing line driving on a racetrack . You turn the power way down. 
If you can start to do trackdays on the stock motor first. Would be even better. Too much power when you're still learning does more harm then good for your driving technics..

GL


----------



## jsmith2015 (Mar 7, 2015)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> More pics of the coolant overflow and recovery tank


Nice. I want to replace my power steering reservoir as well where did you get that tank and fittings did you have to use hook into the factory power steering


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

jsmith2015 said:


> Nice. I want to replace my power steering reservoir as well where did you get that tank and fittings did you have to use hook into the factory power steering


I used an M16x1.5 aluminum fitting with a 6an 90 degree swivel straight off the steering rack. 6an braided lines going to the tank and 10an push lock hose going back to the pump.

The tank I ordered used from a stock car racing shop. You can find 100's of recovery tanks on summit racing that will work depending on where you want to mount it.


----------



## youngblood7868 (Nov 12, 2012)

I put terminal block under driver side head lite


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Today I did some work on the BBS RS-GT's

They will be sanded with 220 grit and then taken to powdercoat. The centers will stay original diamond black and the lips/barrels will become matte black


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

On Friday I picked up a nice 2000 pound engine stand on craigslist for $60 

This thing is very stable and I can rotate the engine with very little effort.

I got to work tearing down the block. Head and all accessories came off.

I then started taking out the rods and pistons. Visually everything looks 100%

However, I have some noticeable metal debris in the bottom of the oil pan but I am not sure where it is coming from.

Some of the rod bearings show heat marks on them but they were all still intact. When I get the crank out maybe the culprit will show itself.

I will take close up pictures of each rod bearing in the coming days.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I think I am going to have to make some changes to the fuel system setup. I had the surge tank mounted under the spare tire and I have found that the rear diff and exhaust area get pretty hot under even normal driving conditions. I do not want the surge tank to experience any additional heat other than the heat created by the fuel pumps themselves.

My plan is to try and mount the tank behind the passenger side front fender where the factory evap pump is located.


----------



## Alec's TT (Jan 28, 2013)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I think I am going to have to make some changes to the fuel system setup. I had the surge tank mounted under the spare tire and I have found that the rear diff and exhaust area get pretty hot under even normal driving conditions. I do not want the surge tank to experience any additional heat other than the heat created by the fuel pumps themselves.
> 
> My plan is to try and mount the tank behind the passenger side front fender where the factory evap pump is located.


This is the only picture i have handy, this is where mine is though.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I have the dual surge tank so I doubt it will fit there. In addition I have an aftermarket power steering reservoir that is occupying that position right now.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

I think you're over-thinking this. Natural airflow will cool things down tremendously back there once moving. And if needed, you can always insulate more or provide extra cooling to the tank with some ducting. The same way components get heated back there, placing the surge around the brakes would bring you right back where you started if heat in the vicinity of surge was really a problem. IMO, where you have is well protected and insulated, so leave it alone.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> I think you're over-thinking this. Natural airflow will cool things down tremendously back there once moving. And if needed, you can always insulate more or provide extra cooling to the tank with some ducting. The same way components get heated back there, placing the surge around the brakes would bring you right back where you started if heat in the vicinity of surge was really a problem. IMO, where you have is well protected and insulated, so leave it alone.


I also didn't mention the additional cost of Hose and fittings to run the lines to the back of the car and then back to the front is playing a factor. I will update possibly tonight with a decision on the matter


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Looks like the effort was all for nothing and the surge tank will be staying in the rear as originally planned. I failed to find a suitable alternative behind the fender. The dual tank is simply too large. 

Not looking forward to spending $500 on fuel fittings next month to plumb it all in though.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I dropped the short block off at the machine shop on Monday to be bored and honed to fit the 83mm CP Pistons. More updates to follow :thumbup:


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Here is a list of parts that have been acquired for the big turbo swap/rebuild.

Motor rebuild parts


CP pistons tool steel pins - done
Connecting rods - done
ARP head studs - done
Main bearings - done
Connecting rod bearings - done
Valve cover gasket - done
Agn valve cover - done
Billet thermostat flange - going to use stock plastic flange for now 
Billet coolant head flange - done
Vband flanges - done
4 feet stainless straight pipe - done
Silicone coolant hoses - done
Brad penn break in oil - going to use shell straight 30 weight non detergent with a comp cams break in additive
Oil filters - done
Continental timing belt - done
IE billet crank gear - done
Arp crank bolt - done
FSI damper - done


AEM infinity ecu - done




Big thanks to Al @ PagParts for the pistons.

Madmax @ FTD Motorsports for the AEM infinity ECU

And Integrated engineering for the connecting rods and other timing parts.

Pictures and engine assembly coming next week. :thumbup:


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Who made the silicone radiator hoses? And why multiple oil filters?


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

:thumbup::thumbup:

Very good list you got going there Richard. Car is going to be a beast!


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

20v master said:


> Who made the silicone radiator hoses? And why multiple oil filters?


Silicone radiator hoses from eBay China.

Multiple oil filters for break in oil and first oil change


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Today I received the new AEM Infinity 8h PNP Ecu and harness courtesy of Max @ FTD motorsports. I had it installed in a couple of hours, working slowly. I ran the USB cable through the firewall into the glovebox for storage when it is not in use:thumbup:

The car fired up on the first try. Tomorrow will be spent tuning the basic daily driving characteristics so I can make it to work on monday


----------



## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Today I received the new AEM Infinity 8h PNP Ecu and harness courtesy of Max @ FTD motorsports. I had it installed in a couple of hours, working slowly. I ran the USB cable through the firewall into the glovebox for storage when it is not in use:thumbup:
> 
> The car fired up on the first try. Tomorrow will be spent tuning the basic daily driving characteristics so I can make it to work on monday ...


Very cool... looking forward to hearing about its capabilities and the tuning process :thumbup:


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Today I received the new AEM Infinity 8h PNP Ecu and harness courtesy of Max @ FTD motorsports.


Glad I could provide the service! Take some pics of the install and tuning process so others can see how easy and awesome the infinity standalone is. :beer:


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

More progress today.

Because my car is an 01 Audi TT 225 with AMU engine code I ran into a couple of hiccups today. These issues would not be present if I was doing the Infinity PnP ECU Swap on a new AWP ECU. 

Due to the fact that the AEM infinity plug and play ECU harness is designed to plug into an 02-05 1.8T AWP engine, I had a couple of issues when doing this conversion.

1. After swapping the ECU and harness I had no fan operation under any conditions.

2. The A/C Compressor no longer kicks on with the switch from inside the car.


I have fixed issue #1 today by swapping white wire PIN #61 from the car's OEM harness into position #41 on the OEM harness. This returns the car to its original fan operation.


I have not solved the issue of the A/C compressor not kicking on yet. I will need to figure out which pin on the stock AWP ECU controls the A/C compressor operation. For now the car will run and drive as normal with No A/C.

I took a few pictures of the tuning suite. There are so many functions I cannot explain all of them right now.

AEM has 2 basefiles available right now but each basefile is customizable for 50+ different types of injectors. All I did was pick my injector type from the injector wizard and the infinity pre-populated the injector tables and battery voltage tables. The car fired on the first try and idled very good. I drove it down the street and haven't made any other changes to it thus far.

The basefile I am using is for a 65mm throttle body but they have another file that is also available for a 70mm throttle body/SEM manifold/GT2871R combo. That should be a good start for most big turbo users.

All in all I feel that this was a good decision despite being twice the cost of a comparable maestro unit. The ability to make changes instantly while the car is running is really something that cannot be compared to a standard ME7 unit.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Looking good Richard! Make sure to take note and post the pin switch for proper A/C function. I also have an AMU harness but couldn't have known about both things you encounterd since I don't have A/C in my car and my fans are powered manually on a dash-mounted toggle. I will update my thread in the 1.8t technical with both findings (or you could also post them there if you wish that way the knowledge is not lossed). :thumbup::thumbup: 

Also good to know that Nathan added 65mm throttle body to the wizard list. I haven't played with mine in a while and have not updated the software since the original. I had to use the custom-TB feature and calibrate my 65mm TB, it's cool that I could just go and select the proper profile now and never have to worry about re-calibration.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Made some more progress on the build this week.

I got the block back from the machine shop. Bored to 83mm. Cleaned and decked.

Crank was polished. IE oil pump drive gear was pressed on.

Some people have tack welded the 3 bolts for the trigger wheel. I opted to use red loctite on these bolts instead. They shouldn't come loose with that.

Also started painting the block and weighing out the pistons and rods. Everything is matched to within 1 gram of each other so looking good. The rest of the engine assembly will take place later this week when the block paint dries. :thumbup:


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I also received a set of 02m steel shift forks. I got them online for $110 each plus shipping. Killer deal from Audi of Atlantic NJ


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Pumped to see how tuning goes for you. When I transfer my engine into my r shell I'm gonna go aem standalone for sure


----------



## punkrider99 (Jan 16, 2004)

FYI the a/c relay isn't triggered by the ECU on an AWP. The a/c is basically self contained/controlled and when you hit the switch it turns the a/c relay on itself. There's a signal that goes from the a/c req switch to the ECU but it only tells it that the a/c is on, not to turn it on.

Rad fans are also self controlled on AWP - there's no interface with the ECU at all. If you need the Infinity to trigger a fan relay, use a spare output in the aux connector.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

punkrider99 said:


> FYI the a/c relay isn't triggered by the ECU on an AWP. The a/c is basically self contained/controlled and when you hit the switch it turns the a/c relay on itself. There's a signal that goes from the a/c req switch to the ECU but it only tells it that the a/c is on, not to turn it on.
> 
> Rad fans are also self controlled on AWP - there's no interface with the ECU at all. If you need the Infinity to trigger a fan relay, use a spare output in the aux connector.


Thanks for this info I will troubleshoot as soon as I get the car back


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

More updates from the engine swap.

I installed brand new 1-2 and 3-4 steel shift forks into the tranny during the engine swap. A lot easier than I thought and some cheap piece of mind not worrying about breaking a fork.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

After I got the engine installed we began fabricating the 3.5 inch turboback exhaust and associated intercooler piping. 

The exhaust is custom made by Marc @ VAP Motorsports in Ft. Myers. These are just some progress pics I will have more this weekend when I get the car back. Top notch fabrication from VAP.

I wanted to keep the dual exit exhaust for aesthetics. The weight of the additional piping is minimal. The 3.5 inch was also very tight around the transfer case but it fits! For now he straight piped it because the muffler that I was going to use is too large in diameter to fit snugly under the car. I will look into getting a vibrant resonator installed down the road if it is too loud.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

I've been waiting on this, you texted me a few times in some of those pics. :laugh:


----------



## FatAce (Jan 30, 2012)

Sub'd opcorn:


----------



## BeasTToftheEast (Sep 20, 2007)

Looking good man, it seems like both of our builds will be finishing around the same time

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk


----------



## artur vel 2 hoot (Nov 25, 2006)

Bump :thumbup:

Curious to see further progress


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

artur vel 2 hoot said:


> Bump :thumbup:
> 
> Curious to see further progress



I fixed the problem with the engine timing and fired the car up on the stock Audi TT ECU and stock 386cc injectors. I am working on getting the correct settings so that I can run the car with the AEM infinity and the larger injectors. 

Here is a short video of it idling with oil pressure gauge making sure everything is 100%


----------



## artur vel 2 hoot (Nov 25, 2006)

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: :beer::beer::beer:


----------



## AwdBug (Apr 22, 2020)

love the build !


----------

