# OBD 1 VRT, what should i do with the isv?



## 75Bus88fox (Feb 27, 2005)

ok guys, before anyone says go with stand alone, or go with obd2.. its not in the budget and i already have what i need for obd1... 

management C2 stage 1.5 eprom, 36lb injectors.. 

now heres the question, where do i route the isv or does the C2 software over ride this?
becuase as it stands now i dont have anywhere to route this. 

pictures and and anyhelp is highly apreciated.


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## 16V VW (Aug 1, 2004)

i have this problem too, you can use the ISV but under negative pressure it squees the lines, and boost they pop off.

im just going obd2


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## 75Bus88fox (Feb 27, 2005)

well its been nother that you can run a check valve ( to make sure your not sending boost back through it), i realy need to see a picture of what guys are doing with it, and if theyre even using it at all


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

When you guys take them off LMK. We use these valves all the time with haltech an all kinds of turbo cars. They work awsome.


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## 75Bus88fox (Feb 27, 2005)

well thats my thing, i dont want to take it off, but on the flip side of that, im going to be running onlybetween 6-8 lbs since i dont have an intercooler yet, and its my daily, no need for anything more than that on the street. i was thinkin of tapping the short runner on the passenger side, and utilizing one of the bungs in the intial intake tube after the maf.


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## BARELY LEGAL (Jul 2, 2009)

Just take it off. The car will run well without it. All you have to do is adjust the throttle plate set screw to the desired idle.


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

Just pull off your upper intake and have someone weld a pipe thread bung on it. Then run some radiator hose on it.


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## pubahs (Apr 2, 2002)

Reroute it back in - do some research on obd1 vrt's and ull read that a lot of people encounter some idling issues and they end up rerouting it back in

One point before Throttle body and one point after throttle body. Depends if you have a short runner or not


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## BARELY LEGAL (Jul 2, 2009)

pubahs said:


> Reroute it back in - do some research on obd1 vrt's and ull read that a lot of people encounter some idling issues and they end up rerouting it back in
> 
> One point before Throttle body and one point after throttle body. Depends if you have a short runner or not


I've noticed with mine that upon initial startup, when the engine is cold, my idle is low but it doesn't stall. Once the car warms up a bit, the idle smoothes out and the car runs great. I would say it's worth it to clean up the bay and not have to worry about rerouting the valve, especially on a short runner.


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## pubahs (Apr 2, 2002)

Rerouted ISV - find it


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## BMAN (Jun 9, 1999)

I know on my two old OBD 1 cars with Kinetic's kit the ISV hooked up to the turbo housing, they had a port on the housing. I have a kit I'm waiting to be shipped from them and I asked them today if it still comes with the port because you guys were scaring me


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## 75Bus88fox (Feb 27, 2005)

well the car does run with out it, but idles like crap, even with the screw adjusted out, so im defintily going to be putting this back in, im going to a junkyard now to go grab a isv hose with a check valve off of a G60 raddo.. oh and as far as that picture goes, i just renamed your isv waldo.. cuz i cant find it.


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## euro4-DoOr (Apr 9, 2004)

I have one bung welded before the throttle and nothing on the other end of the isv and it idles fine sometimes and sometimes i rev it and it just stalls...still trying to figure this out...


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## euro4-DoOr (Apr 9, 2004)

wtf do you do with this thing? it's fu cking stupid!!


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## 75Bus88fox (Feb 27, 2005)

:thumbupk heres what ive come up with, i had another port welded onto my short runner last night, i will be re routing the isv in the following manner

the first hose will be Tee'd into the hose that runs from the first boost tube too the Diverter Valve, from there it will go to the new pipe bung i had welded on. i discussed this with a buddy and it seemed to be the most resonable thing to do , becuase getting the right sized check valve wasnt in te budget as far as time was concerned. most importantly , by routing it this way i will have boost on either side of the ISV which will keep it balanced. ill try to get some pictures when im done.


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## 75Bus88fox (Feb 27, 2005)

BARELY LEGAL said:


> Just take it off. The car will run well without it. All you have to do is adjust the throttle plate set screw to the desired idle.


by doing that, you piss off the tps realy bad.:sly:

the throttle body wants to; or should be at 8 degress at idle, when you turn the idle screw up to compensate for the missing isv your right around 20-25 degress. and the tps cant handle that at idle it senses how far open it is and cant understand why your only at 900-1000 rpm's 

i base that on data from the VAG COM..


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## WeeZFan69 (Aug 3, 2003)

75Bus88fox said:


> by doing that, you piss off the tps realy bad.:sly:
> 
> the throttle body wants to; or should be at 8 degress at idle, when you turn the idle screw up to compensate for the missing isv your right around 20-25 degress. and the tps cant handle that at idle it senses how far open it is and cant understand why your only at 900-1000 rpm's
> 
> i base that on data from the VAG COM..


very good explanation, i know from experience you can raise the idle with the screw and have no isv but it runs strange. I'd say keep the ISV and just valve it correctly so it doesnt see boost.


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## 75Bus88fox (Feb 27, 2005)

.. i ran it so that it see's boost on both sides, in doing so it cant leak boost. and let me tell you it works great now, car went 12.89 today:thumbup:


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## WeeZFan69 (Aug 3, 2003)

75Bus88fox said:


> .. i ran it so that it see's boost on both sides, in doing so it cant leak boost. and let me tell you it works great now, car went 12.89 today:thumbup:


do you see any weird idle issues like that because its now drawing air from the compressed side and not the inlet side? obviously it must not affect it much because at idle your turbo isnt doing anything i suppose.


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

Hook it up to the boost tube. :thumbup:


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## 'dubber (Jun 15, 2004)

> .. i ran it so that it see's boost on both sides, in doing so it cant leak boost. and let me tell you it works great now, car went 12.89 today


..

Allright, I'm not sure how to quote like before, but you can still have leaks where the plastic endcap is joined to the metal body on the isv, but nonetheless it is a very minimal amount and you can epoxy over the seam if you really want to. I applaud your efforts to keep the valve in there.


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## wabbitGTl (Jan 2, 2007)

bumping this back up for more info and PICTURES!! 

i'm at the last stages of my build and i'm trying to figure out how to reroute this. i'm going standalone and mr. black recommends that i keep the little sucker in there for idle control. 

help a brother out! :beer:


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

I run it on my car, I bought a 2.5" T silicone couple with a 1" out and hooked the ISV feed up there.


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## vergessen wir es (May 12, 2010)

[URL="http://www.flickr.com/photos/...ickr.com/5103/5621810039_4049ca0f76.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Valve is mounted under the bracket to get inline with the ports. Opened up the other end of the rubber mount and bent up the bracket. Hoses are so short they can't really go anywhere. Pressure tested to 20 psi. Better clamps for more probably.

*edit* Pressure tested to 30 psi same clamps


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## wabbitGTl (Jan 2, 2007)

Thank you guys so much! I was really sweating this part, but it looks pretty simple. I don't see any check valves, anyone running one? :beer:


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

No need, both sides seeing boost.


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## BARELY LEGAL (Jul 2, 2009)

I wound up rerouting mine back in when I remade my short runner. I plumbed mine from the bottom of the intake manifold to the intake (post maf). I do not have a check valve in place, but I see no boost leaks.


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## DubmyRUCA (May 22, 2007)

vergessen wir es said:


> [URL="http://www.flickr.com/photos/...ickr.com/5103/5621810039_4049ca0f76.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
> 
> Valve is mounted under the bracket to get inline with the ports. Opened up the other end of the rubber mount and bent up the bracket. Hoses are so short they can't really go anywhere. Pressure tested to 20 psi. Better clamps for more probably.


Thanks for the pic's, extremely helpful. Going to replicate your setup, i defiantly don't need the little black muffler right?


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## vergessen wir es (May 12, 2010)

Definitely don't need the muffler.


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## 'dubber (Jun 15, 2004)

After I put new hoses on mine, I then noticed that the hose barbs are different diameters until you flip the valve around, then they match up better. Has anyone tried running it "backwards" to facilitate hose replacement? Ill try it but not until i tear it out again which wont be for a while.


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