# DIY Brake Replacement



## Tahoe12 (Mar 22, 2005)

Can anyone give me some pointers in replacing my front pads and rotors. My dealer isn't willing to install the aftermarket parts for me. I have never done a brake job, but am mechanically inclined and good at repairing equipment. What tools are needed?
From what I have read, I need 4 sensors, new bolts N91028201 and a couple hours of shop time. 
Can someone hook me up with the BENTLY pages on this process? PM or airtahoe @ comcast.net
Much appreciated. 

Anyone sell a hardcopy of the service manual? I only see web and CD versions. Do these contain the info for a brake change?



_Modified by Tahoe12 at 4:39 PM 7-25-2006_


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## schmove (Nov 29, 1999)

http://esis.infofoundry.com:80...vw.7l


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## Tahoe12 (Mar 22, 2005)

*Re: (schmove)*

That link doesn't go anywhere?


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## Phagus (Aug 5, 2003)

*Re: (Tahoe12)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Tahoe12* »_That link doesn't go anywhere? 

this one still works:
http://esis.infofoundry.com:80...=06-1


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## Tahoe12 (Mar 22, 2005)

*Re: (****us)*

Thanks guys







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## schmove (Nov 29, 1999)

*Re: (Tahoe12)*

yup thats the link, sorry about that. the one I was using earlier expired. I also have a thread from Rennlist for a Cayenne. I'll dig it up after work to post. At least it has color pictures


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## Tahoe12 (Mar 22, 2005)

*Re: (schmove)*

Cool. Thanks schmove


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## pfb2 (Apr 29, 2006)

Holy ****! I think it takes longer to read that procedure than to actually swap in a new set of pads!


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## Tahoe12 (Mar 22, 2005)

*Re: (pfb2)*

******Photos Removed*******



_Modified by Tahoe12 at 4:48 PM 8-17-2006_


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## Phagus (Aug 5, 2003)

*Re: (Tahoe12)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Tahoe12* »_*What about these special torque and piston resetting tools? Do I need those to get the job done? Will a regular torque wrench work? * 

these torque wrenches are not special. the small one is more precise and has a small torque limit (200Nm). the big one goes to 800Nm.
the big torque wrench is necessary to tighten the "Hex head bolt on wheel bearing housing" to 270 Nm. and i'd say it is crazy. the bentley also recommends replacing these bolts. not necessary either. I've already mentioned this in the PAP PARTS brake thread and will repeat: THESE HEX BOLTS HOLD THE ROTORS IN PLACE IN BETWEEN TIRE CHANGES. once the wheel is on, it is held by the wheel bolts. anyways, you might to tighten these hex bolts quite well using whatever wrench you have.
i have not changed the pads on my touareg yet but i've used a 3" or 4" C-clamp instead of the special piston resetting tool on my jetta. and i am going to use this C-clamp on the T also. BTW, the pistons on the braking system in top notch condition can be pushed in by hand.


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## Tahoe12 (Mar 22, 2005)

*Re: (****us)*

I appreciate the reply ****us. I got a large torque wrench today, just waiting for my parts to arrive. 
Funny how they recommend replacing the hex bolts but really it is not necessary. 
I will try to get one of those C Clamps for the pistons. If that will do the trick, that is great. One less tool I will need. 
I will post photos and a write-up to help others when the process is complete.


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## pfb2 (Apr 29, 2006)

It is easy enough to just pry the pistons back in the bore using a screwdriver. In fact I had to push the pistons back in just to get the pads out, as the rotor, as typical, developed a slight lip that prevents the pads from lifting out without some slack in the piston.
Best done with the old pads in place rather than the new ones, but will work either way.
Sometimes the rear caliper pistons need to be screwed back in rather than pressed. I believe this is usually because of how the parking brake auto-adjuster works. Does anybody know if this is the case with the Treg? 


_Modified by pfb2 at 8:21 AM 7-27-2006_


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## Phagus (Aug 5, 2003)

*Re: (pfb2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pfb2* »_It is easy enough to just pry the pistons back in the bore using a screwdriver. In fact I had to push the pistons back in just to get the pads out, as the rotor, as typical, developed a slight lip that prevents the pads from lifting out without some slack in the piston.
Best done with the old pads in place rather than the new ones, but will work either way.
Sometimes the rear caliper pistons need to be screwed back in rather than pressed. I believe this is usually because of how the parking brake auto-adjuster works. Does anybody know if this is the case with the Treg? 

_Modified by pfb2 at 8:21 AM 7-27-2006_

all good points.
the rear brake piston can be simply pushed back. no special screw tool is required. *But* the rear calipers are held with two pins that have BIG triple square heads. So, go to autozone and get yourself the bits i mentioned in the other thread if you are replacing the rear rotors.


_Modified by ****us at 11:35 AM 7-27-2006_


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## Phagus (Aug 5, 2003)

*Re: (Tahoe12)*

man, i feel stupid. the HEX BOLTS that are supposed to be torqued to 270Nm are the two pins that hold the calipers in place (they run across the calipers and attach the calipers to the carrier). they are item #4 in the bentley drawing. they HAVE to be tightened to 270Nm, no doubt about that. 
the bolt that attaches the rotor to the wheel hub is torqued to 15 Nm according to bentley (item #2). 
you also asked about special tools. item #2 bolt is has a big torx head (do not know how big), so you have to have a set. item #4 bolt is a big hex head, most probably 10mm or 9mm, so you have to have a set of those. sorry for been so lame with my comments in this thread.


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## Tahoe12 (Mar 22, 2005)

*Re: (****us)*

Thanks guys. I will head to the store this weekend and get a set of large torx drivers. 
My rotors showed up today. Only took 2 days to get them.
From what I gather in your comments, you can install the front pads with a screw driver and not the special tool. But the rear brakes require it to make things go smoothly. 
What does the manual mean by this? "Before pressing the piston back to insert new brake pads, draw off brake fluid from the reservoir with a bleeder bottle. Otherwise, particularly if reservoir has been topped off, fluid will overflow and cause damage." 
Are they saying bleed the brakes? or remove/suck out some of the fluid from the top of the resevoir so it won't overflow when you push back the pistons? 
Tools required so far:
1. Large Torque wrench up to 270 Nm
2. Small/more precise torque wrench down to 9Nm
3. Large HEX set for "Hex socket head bolt 9 Nm, Hex bolt 30 Nm, and the #4 Hex bolt" part #N91028201 Allen key head bolt M12X1,5X16X19
4. Large TORX set to remove the bolt holding the rotors on
Fluid extractor 
5. Regular screwdriver to hold back pistons

pfb2 did you replace your sensors? Mine haven't gone off yet. Can I re-use them if I disassmebly carefully?



_Modified by Tahoe12 at 7:43 PM 7-27-2006_


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## Phagus (Aug 5, 2003)

*Re: (Tahoe12)*

this is a DIY job description done by user "spinnetti" long time ago. he lists all the tools you will need. I should have digged up this DIY long time ago but...

_Quote, originally posted by *spinetti* »_
Tools:
- lug cap remover hook (Gawd I hate that thing, and hate using it more)
- Lug wrench
- Wheel stud pin helpful for reinstalling wheel, but not required
- Small flat blade screwdriver to remove sensors
- Anti-Seize compound
- Brake cleaner
- 13/16 (or 21mm?) socket to remove brake caliper
- T50 Torx bit - You need this to remove the rotor, and most folks aren't gonna have one, so do you shopping first
- 6mm allen head socket or wrench to remove brakeline bracket so you can move the caliper out of the way (required unless you want to bend your brake hardline)
- 13mm socket to remove the brake pad retaining pin
- Small diameter drift or screwdriver to drive out pad retaining pin (mine were stuck in there pretty good)
- You DO NOT NEED a special service tool to push back the front caliper pistons (more below)
- Claw hammer (dual use - see below) 
How I did it (pads and rotors):
> Remove lug covers with tool from trunk tool kit
> Crack loose (only a little!) the front lug nuts
> Jack up the car on the underbody jack point (one side)
> Remove lugs rest of the way and take the wheel off
> Crank the steering wheel all the way so the caliper faces out towards you the maximum possible
> Use the T50 torx and take out the bolt holding the rotor on
> Use the 13mm socket and remove the retaining pin bolt
> Use the 6mm allen head socket or wrench and remove the lower brake line bracket bolt
> If you are lucky, Push in the pad spring and pull out the pad retaining pin. If you are like me, use your drift or screwdriver, put it in the end of the pad retaining pin and whack it with your trusty hammer to drive the pin out. Mine was stuck pretty good, so no other way to do it.
> Pull the pads out part way, and use a small flat screwdriver and pry out the sensors from the pads. they pop out pretty easy. Do NOT pull on the wires to take them out. Leave the wires on the spring clip. Move the wire/clip out of the way.
> BEFORE you remove the pads completely, take your trusty claw hammer, and use the claw sideways to pry apart the pads between the balancing weights both top and bottom. This is easy, takes just a few seconds, and prevents needing that special service tool. Note where the cutouts for the sensors go so you put the new ones in the right way and remove the pads. If you do one side at a time, you do NOT need to remove any fluid.
> Take off the 2 caliper bolts with your 13/16 socket and a good bit of muscle.
> Do NOT remove any of the brakelines.
> This is the fun part. Pull the caliper off carefully, making sure not to bend the hard brake line (you did remove the lower bracket to give your self some room right?). While holding this in one hand (or a helper holds it), employ your trusty hammer again and whack the rotor from the back until its free of the hub. Put down the hammer (still holding the caliper with the other hand - see? Another set of hands is helpful here!) and remover the rotor. Put on the new rotor (making sure you cleaned the rotor first)
> This is a good time to clean your wheels.... 
Installation is the opposite of removal, but note:
- Use brake cleaner to remove the grease on your new rotors before you put them on (or you will ruin your new pads!)
- Put anti-seize on your bolts, and especially on your pad retaining pin. I think these should probably be replaces every other brake job or so unless you never get cruddy weather where you live.
- Don't touch the face of your brake pads - if you get grease on them, you get to buy another set.
- As you finish the first side, go in the car and pump the brake pedal to push the pistons back out BEFORE you do the other side. Failure to do this (and not having removed some fluid) may leak out brake fluid from the resivoir espcially if you did both sides without pumping the brakes.
- Test drive the car before you give to your wife or S/O to drive! you need to make sure the pedal is back to normal before driving as usual (just pump it a few times before driving off and test it before you need it). If you don't pump them first, the first brake application will be very soft and an unplesant surprise!


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## schmove (Nov 29, 1999)

sorry it took so long, but here's the link: http://forums.rennlist.com/ren...e+pad


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## Tahoe12 (Mar 22, 2005)

*Re: (schmove)*

Thank you ****us and schmove.
I knew there must have been someone that had already posted this info in the past, but none of my searches where giving me results. This is going to help out a lot.


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## Tahoe12 (Mar 22, 2005)

*Re: (Tahoe12)*

Thanks guys for the info on the torque specs and bedding the pads.
My first brake job ever and it went smoothly. I couldn't have done it without the tips from everyone. At first I thought it was going to be impossible to get the pads back in, but I finally figured it out, pushing one piston in at a time. 
I got everything back together and tightenend up. A philips driver really helps guide the single bolt across the spring and pads. The backside of a large crescent wrench helped push the pistons in one at a time. I used a stiff piece of wire to hang/hold the caliper while I detached it from the rotor. That way I didn't need a third hand and wouldn't bend the brake line.
The sensors are nearly impossible to save. I could get one off and then the second sensor would snap. There are two sensor points on each wheel. And the black plastic connector is a real pain to de-tach and connect the new sensor. I put some grease on it so that it will be smoother next time. 
I used anti-seaze compound on all the bolts. Brake grease on the back of the pads. 
$285 Rotors and Pads
$52 Two brake sensors
$5 T-50 driver
$3 grease
$3 brake cleaner
$3 anti-seaze compound
$25 Torque wrench
$10 6-pack of beer
2 hours of my time 
$386 Total cost
vs. Dealer $865
Saved $479 that I can use for other stuff and now have some new tools in my pocket









































_Modified by Tahoe12 at 9:54 PM 8-4-2006_


_Modified by Tahoe12 at 9:55 PM 8-4-2006_


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## spockcat (Jun 5, 2003)

*Re: (Tahoe12)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Tahoe12* »_Thank you ****us and schmove.
I knew there must have been someone that had already posted this info in the past, but none of my searches where giving me results. This is going to help out a lot. 

New mods aren't doing their job to put important threads in the FAQs. They are off racing Porsches or off tearing up the mountains with overpowered SUVs.


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## Tahoe12 (Mar 22, 2005)

*Re: (spockcat)*


_Quote, originally posted by *spockcat* »_
New mods aren't doing their job to put important threads in the FAQs. They are off racing Porsches or off tearing up the mountains with overpowered SUVs.
















Well somebody has to be out having fun. It is summer you know.


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## adesilva (Aug 17, 2006)

*Re: (schmove)*

Sorry to bother you again with a similar question- both the links provide above don't seem to work - just looking for instructions on changind pads and sensors. - thanks


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## Salvatore1 (Aug 7, 2006)

*Re: (adesilva)*

*Dear friends!
I don’t believe that it is really a good idea to post (partial) information out of the ESIS-system right here – in public! Please bear in mind that this system is VW intranet. We’re not permitted to use it. 
May I suggest the following: let us use it wise, quiet and carefully, otherwise VW will change the entry. If anybody needs/has information send it by IM or e-mail. 
Lately this worked wonderful with “nsho13” (greetings to you!).
Spock, appreciate your comment!*




_Modified by Salvatore1 at 8:52 PM 8-17-2006_


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## Tahoe12 (Mar 22, 2005)

*Re: (adesilva)*

adesilva,
There really is no need for the Bently info to change the pads and rotos. Infact I found it more confusing and of little use. People's own write-ups and personal comments were of much more help. PM if you need further assitance.


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## Chuck_Klaus (Jan 20, 2006)

pm'd you.....need to know where to get these parts


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## wkaml (Jan 12, 2003)

*Re: (Tahoe12)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Tahoe12* »_Thanks guys for the info on the torque specs and bedding the pads.
[...]
$25 Torque wrench
[...]


I have been searching all posts for torque specs on the tires themselves and did not find anything here.
I am getting a second set of tires and will have now a set for off-road and on-road. Since I am planning to change the tires myself, I am wondering if I should be using a torque wrench for changing the tires.
What are the specs and which torque wrench should I ideally get?
Also, _Tahoe12_, I have seen you used a trolley jack. It seems to be pretty clear of where to position them for changing the rear tires, but I am not so sure on the front tires. Seems there may be a couple positions on where to set the jack for lifting up the vehicle. One position more on the outside and then there seems to be a huge washer alike a little bit inward. Am I expressing myself somewhat clear? - I guess I will head out and make a couple pictures and post them for clarification.
Any help on the torque wrench and torque for wheel nuts is appreciated!


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## wkaml (Jan 12, 2003)

*Re: (wkaml)*


Here is an image of the rear left wheel area with a couple of positions where a trolley jack could be positioned to lift the car for tire change. Which position is best to use? - I would assume position 2, but someone else will know better than I.
Thanks for your advice!


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## henna gaijin (Jun 30, 2005)

*Re: (wkaml)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wkaml* »_
I have been searching all posts for torque specs on the tires themselves and did not find anything here.
Any help on the torque wrench and torque for wheel nuts is appreciated!

Correct wheel bolt torque is 160NM or 118 lb/ft.
I use a Craftsman 1/2" drive torque wrench which has settings in both NM and lb/ft, but just about any torque wrench with this torque value within its scale will work.
HTH


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## 4x4s (Dec 18, 2003)

*Re: (wkaml)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wkaml* »_

Wow, that tire is looking sad.


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## wkaml (Jan 12, 2003)

*Re: (4x4s)*


_Quote, originally posted by *4x4s* »_
Wow, that tire is looking sad.










... and can't wait to come off any longer. I am looking for some good off-road tires. I have been eye-balling the "_General Grabber AT 2_" but did not find much online in terms of experience on the Touareg, etc.


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## Tahoe12 (Mar 22, 2005)

*Re: (wkaml)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wkaml* »_
Also, _Tahoe12_, I have seen you used a trolley jack. It seems to be pretty clear of where to position them for changing the rear tires, but I am not so sure on the front tires. Seems there may be a couple positions on where to set the jack for lifting up the vehicle. One position more on the outside and then there seems to be a huge washer alike a little bit inward. Am I expressing myself somewhat clear? - I guess I will head out and make a couple pictures and post them for clarification.


Area 1 or 2 would work ok, but you can't lift both left and right tires at the same time unless you have two jacks. I used the main cross beam that goes across. It is hefty enough to lift the car. Just put a towel/rubber on your jack so you don't scratch it up. Lifting from here allows you the lift the entire front of the car. Then use jackstands for backup incase the trolley jack fails. I am sure there are other ways to do it, but that is what worked for me.


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## Vicb (Apr 22, 2019)

*Rear Brake rotors on 2015 180KW Touareg AU.*

Any idea what tool is needed to remove the REAR rotor and pads? 
Had a look and there are 2 bolts with what looks like star socket heads but nothing in my torx set fits. 
It is as if the thing has a double spline (12?) and no idea what to ask for when I get to the tool shop.

BTW when I did the front rotor and pad replacement I used a piece of tie wire to hold the caliper out of the way - gave me 2 hands to work with.

Thank you



****us said:


> this is a DIY job description done by user "spinnetti" long time ago. he lists all the tools you will need. I should have digged up this DIY long time ago but...
> 
> _Quote, originally posted by *spinetti* »_
> Tools:
> ...


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