# DIY: How to Retrofit (Europeanize) Auto-Dimming / Motorized Exterior Mirrors to your CC



## usaf-lt-g (May 16, 2012)

First let me say.... this was a long process of obtaining all the information I needed before I decided to embark on this project. The goal was to get a factory look without "jimmy-rigging" a bunch of design. Slumming through Wiring Diagrams, comparing European harnesses to USA harnesses, obtaining the correct part #s, and just general information in general.... It has been a long but, admitingly, fun road.

*Let's start with some fun facts first.*

1. Did you know your USA model CC's Auto-Dimming Interior rear-view mirror is what controls the exterior mirrors?

2. Did you also know, that your USA model CC's Auto-Dimming Interior rear-view mirror does not come with 2 wires you need to hook up the interior mirror to the exterior mirrors?

3. Did you also know, however, that your USA model CC's Auto-Dimming was nice enough to equip you with a 6 pin wiring harness, even though it's only got 4 wires hooked up? (*HINT: You need those 2 wires*)

So that brings us to Step 1.

*STEP 1: Wiring Up Your Interior Rearview Mirror to Support External Auto-Dimming*

1. Remove Your Rear View Mirror



2. With the mirror removed, examine the connector on the mirror itself. Notice there are "6 Pins" yet only 4 wires connected. Hmmm.... wonder what those other 2 pins are for. Looks like Pins 4 and 5 have no Wires connected to them.



3. Let's check our what the wiring diagrams say about this...


post image link

You can see that we need Pins 4 & 5 to connect to the exterior "auto-dimming" mirrors. As these wires are also missing from the harness we'll also have to connect them down to the doors as well.

This Diagram shows where the two wires fit on the interior mirror. It also shows that they connect via another harness in the A-Pillar.






From the A-Pillar to the Door's 20-Pin Connector


The Door's 16-Pin connector to the Exterior Mirror




4. We need to dissemble the mirror, so we can solder in 2 new wires to account for pins 4 and 5. I apologize, I should have taken a picture as to how exactly to do this, but I didn't. It's not that difficult, but you be as gentle as possible.

Get a really small screwdriver, or something small you can wedge in between the front bezel (my mirror's bezel was brown and the back of it is black). What you want to do, is separate that bezel from the rest of the housing. BE CAREFUL. There's a "thin" metal mesh going along the edges of the mirror. Those are the contacts which enable the mirror to dim. Just take your time, and get it off. The metal mesh should still be surrounding the actual glass part of the mirror if you did this correctly.

Once you get it off, you can pull out the Mirror glass with the "main board" attached to it. Disconnect the 2 white connectors to the board.

Examine the exterior connector again (the one with the 6 pins with pins 4 & 5 missing the 2 wires we need). You'll notice that the plastic connector housing has a plastic piece close to the base, that looks like can be removed. We need to remove that to expose the inside connectors of the pins. Again, get your trusted screwdriver, and GENTLY work on getting that piece off. It encloses on the connector like a "C." When it's off, it should look like this (Minus the 2 wires I've already connected here).





5. Now we need to run 2 new wires. from the outside of the housing to the inside where the main board is. I have some old wiring harnesses laying around, so I tried to stay somewhat consistant to the original wiring diagram. I used a Violet Wire as the (EC - Pin 5) and a Violet / Black Wire as the (EC + Pin 4). There's just enough clearance through that hole to run these 2 new wires.




6. Now with the wires threaded through, and the connector pins exposed, you'll notice VW was nice enough to actually leave you 2 unattached pins in the connector housing! The easiest way to get these out... is to get yourself some needle nose pliers around pin 4 and pin 5, and push them out (don't pull them out) towards where they are supossed to be connected to the wires.

Once they're out, strip the 2 wires you ran previously, and place them in the base of the pins, then solder the wire and push the pin back in the connector housing. Should look like this when you're done.



7. Back over to the mirror, where the electronic board is. You'll notice a Red wire going to one side of the mirror, and a Black wire going to the other side. These are the 2 wires we need to "tap into" as they control the dimming of the mirror. In otherwords, when this connected right, when you're Interior Mirror detects that it needs to "Dim," It will also dim the exterior mirrors as well since the signal is connected.

I soldered on the inside of the connector to make it cleaner, since the factory connection is flat.

Here's the Red wire soldered (Pin 4)



And the black wire soldered (Pin 5)




8. Now you can put the mirror back together. Pull the wires through the rest of the way, so that the connector is nice and flush in the factory housing. Then route the wires nicely so you can put the mirror glass and main board back in the black housing and reattach the bezel. When you're done, you're 6 wire connector should like this



9. Now you have an Interior Mirror ready to handle the Exterior Mirrors when you get them.


Also for your information, I got my mirrors from this guy. He may have more!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261018289826?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


*STEP 2: Routing the 2 new wires to the A-Pillar*

(Need to add pictures... will do after completing STEP 3)

Well part 2 finally started today. After I called the Germany post office to try and get someone to tell me where the heck my mirrors were, and gave up after getting people that only spoke german, I decided I'd better start wiring the rest of this bad boy. I've still got it apart as I plan to finish up tomorrow.

For this next part, I decided to wire up the mating end of the connector to the anti-dazzle rearview mirror and run wires down to the A-pillar connector (which technically isn't really the A-pillar fyi - it's actually what I would just call the "Inside Door Connector / Gateway to the door").

First, to make this look much more "factory" I decided to go to the local Home Depot and pick up a surplus of 3M Friction Tape which is equivalent to the same expensive stuff you could buy from Volkswagen direct which they call (cloth tape) for a whole lot less money. $2.25 to be exact for a fairly large roll. This stuff allows you to turn your "loose wires" into a much more kosher "wiring harness" replica.



And here's a link to the friction tape at home depot if you don't know where to get it. Auto Zone probably has this stuff too. Link to the Friction Tape

Anywho, last time I wrote, I already had the rearview harness apart, so we won't start there. We'll assume you've already got it off and wired up as described above. This time however, we're going to wire up the mating connector. Remember... Pins 4 and 5 are the ones you need to wire.

To do this you're going to need a wire set - *000 979 018 E*. 


Cut that wire in 2 so you have the two ends. Insert them in the connector so they're nice and snug, and then tie / solder in some extension wire (you're going to need quite a bit... probably at least 6 feet of it to be safe). 4 lengths of 6 feet of AWG 16 gauge wire should suffice. If you cut the repair wire directly in half, use the full length of that wire that's left over, and splice in your wire at the ends. Reason being, is that you want your "soldered wire" to be inside the hoodliner and not showing. Speaking of...

Let's talk about that hood liner shall we? You're going to need to take apart a bunch of stuff to even gain access underneath it. I'm assuming your car is the most complex (like mine). A fully loaded VR6 4Motion with homelink visors, panoramic sunroof, etc. If not, well then you won't be as complicated and have so many things disconnect. But if you are as complex... you're in for a treat 

Start by taking out the center lighting console. Pry off the lid in the front, and the other one to expose the T20 screws. Get your T20 driver, and unscrew them. Disconnect the light harness, the sunroof, and take unclip the microphone. set the assembly aside.

Next that very front piece that looks like speakers that I had you take off? Well, they decided to put a different size screw there. These 2 are T15s. So get your T15 driver / ratchet / socket and unscrew those. Then finally unscrew the other 2 T20 screws that are attached to the roof of the car.

Next lets go to the visors. Underneath the clip for the visor, and the swivel for the visor are 2 plastic housings. On those housings are 2 little doors you need to pry off to get to the screws holding them in place. Both screws are T20. Unscrew and put aside the clip piece. Unscrew and pull down on the swivel but not too hard. You'll notice the harness is still attached. You can let the visor hang by the harness for now. We can't do much until we get the A-pillar trim out.

Now for whatever reason, VW changed the A-pillar design between 2009 and 2010 onwards. Don't ask me why. I'm assuming you have a 2010 onwards. This can be a little tricky to remove. What you need to do is grasp the very top part of the A-pillar trip (near the roof liner) and pull. It will pop off but not fully, like it's stuck! Reason being, is that there's a metal clip that must be "compressed" before you can get the a-pillar off completely. Get some needle nose pliers, and with the small gap you have enter in the gap as if you were standing outside of the car looking in and up. If you're in the car looking at it, you're looking at the wrong side of the a-pillar. Now be careful compressing this clip. Volkswagen claims you can't "reuse this clip and it must be replaced..." I beg to differ. It's a metal clip, not plastic. It might bend a little, but you can fix that. Anyways compress it and the trim should come off the rest of the way. If you'd rather replace these, that's fine (I DID in fact pickup a couple of these... I had to show the Volkswagen Parts guy exactly WHERE to find this in his software :facepalm: 

Anyways the part # is *3C8 868 280*. 



_Note: For those of you who have 2009s.... you lucky bastards don't have to worry about this clip. YOUR procedure is to just pop off the a-pillar like a chicken wing, and you don't need to replace any parts. It's a normal trim piece for you guys. Everyone else though..... sorry.... follow the procedures above. Get yourself some of those clips too, highly recommended._

Now that that's out of the way, pull down gently on the hood liner directly above the door / window. What you're looking for is the flat wire connector that's connected to the visor that's still hanging. You'll notice VW put in a piece of cloth tape that you'll have to remove and a little metal bracket that the wire goes through. You'll need to remove the cloth tape first so you have some give in the wire, and then you'll have to pass the connector through the metal bracket and finally out through the opening in the hood liner so you can disconnect the visor. The connector is on kind of a snug, so give it a good tug and it should come off.

Now you should have access to start running wire. What i did, was tape the wires together with the original harness with the new tape we bought (*see above*), and then ran the newly created harness (which fits very nicely now) through the hood liner, down the a-pillar tucked in with the other harness, and down to the A-pillar connector (which is really just the inside door connector). Let me tell you, when you've gotten this far. You'll be pretty proud of yourself, because if you did it right, this should be looking VERY close to a factory fit. Which is the entire point.

*STEP 3 - Modifying the Left Hand Side Mirror Harness*

Pin 16 (Green / Black) and Pin 8 (Gray / Black) are what connect to the auto-dim mirror.



I took apart the new Left Hand Side mirror assembly to get to the harness... Removed the harness completely from the mirror.... cut open the cloth harness wrapping exposing all the wires.... ran two new wires the length of the harness (Just my luck I already had some green/black wire and some gray/black wire).

Then... lucky me, I already had the TYCO connectors that fit the side of the harness where pins 16 and 8 are. The connector is easy to take apart. Simply get a small screwdriver, gently pry the 1 side with the tiny clip, and slide the connector that stuffed into the housing out. This will expose the wires.

Lucky for me, I had a bunch of the terminal connectors for this particular connector and didn't need to order "repair wires" from VW (which are way more costly than buying a bunch of the terminals themselves.... $0.12 a piece vs. $8.00 for 2.) 

For reference these are Part # *1-963715-1* they're made by TYCO (they make all the ends that fit onto the repair wires).


Anyways.... I crimped these to both ends of the wires, and dabbed a bit of solder on each of them (because I don't trust crimped connectors)... and then real smooth, I inserted them into the connectors slots for Pin 16 (Green/Black) and Pin 8 (Gray/Black). They clicked in and were good to go.

Unfortunately I did not have the rest of what I needed to finish up the other end. But I did order the parts.

The Auto-Dim Mirror Glass I ordered was the Flat version (non aspherical). Reason being... I couldn't find it really. Every place that did have it, wanted too much money. So I said, forget it, I'll get the flat version.

Part # *3C8 857 521 D*
(_Note: If you can find it, then you can also get the aspherical version instead *3C8 857 521 C*_

Then you'll need the mating connector to attach to the 2 pin connector hanging off the mirror glass:
Part # *443 906 231*


And finally the repair wire for the 2 connectors inside:
Part # *000 979 105 E*


I harnessed up the wiring again using the cloth tape I talked about in the edited post above.

*STEP 4 - Removing More Trim and Wirining up the A-pillar 28 Pin Door Connector*

To be completed soon... stay tuned. Want to get the LH Mirror here first. umpkin:


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## akipal (Nov 28, 2009)

So you bought them...
I think you should swap the door modules since those are RHD
Since you have memory seat these are just right for you
I also wonder if these mirrors with memory would tilt when in reverse without memory seat
Good luck and keep us update


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## usaf-lt-g (May 16, 2012)

akipal said:


> So you bought them...
> I think you should swap the door modules since those are RHD
> Since you have memory seat these are just right for you
> I also wonder if these mirrors with memory would tilt when in reverse without memory seat
> Good luck and keep us update


I contacted the seller. Both sides actually auto-dim according to him. When they get here, I'll analyze the wiring.

Wait till you see the next project I'm undertaking after this one  Adaptive Cruise Control... they said it couldn't be done.... I beg to differ.


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## akipal (Nov 28, 2009)

hey usaf-lt-g 

how did you connect wires through the door (A pillar)?
also have you have chance to look up door connectors for 2013's?

thanks


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## usaf-lt-g (May 16, 2012)

akipal said:


> hey usaf-lt-g
> 
> how did you connect wires through the door (A pillar)?
> also have you have chance to look up door connectors for 2013's?
> ...


Haven't had a chance to do it yet, however, I do believe I found all the connectors and pins I need for this project. I opted to by just the "pins" / "terminals" instead of the vw repair kit, because it's way cheaper. I "Think" i got all the pins matched to their TYCO part #, minus 1.

You need the following repair kits, OR their corresponding TYCO terminals instead:

*3x - 000 979 009 E - (6x if just the terminal) 963715-1 (TYCO)* - this is used in several places

*1x - 000 979 017 E* - ??? I have no idea ??? - These are the pins I constructed above, the male part of the mirror harness

*1x - 000 979 018 E - (2x if just the terminal) 963715-1 (TYCO)* - This is the female part of the mirror harness 

*1x - 000 979 020 E - (2x if just the terminal) 964275-2 (TYCO)* - This is for the A-Pillar

*1x - 000 979 025 E - (2x if just the terminal) 1241377-1 (TYCO)* I think.... I had to look this one up using some measurements and the tyco site http://www.te.com and I think this is the corresponding connector. ???


As for the 2013, the rear door plug you are looking I'm showing the exact same connector. Unless you're looking at a different connector? How many pins is it? Can you take a picture of it?


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## usaf-lt-g (May 16, 2012)

Updated with Step 2. See above. More to come yet.


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## akipal (Nov 28, 2009)

usaf-lt-g said:


> Updated with Step 2. See above. More to come yet.


well
i can't wait to see next step 3 (door connector)
thanks for your post


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## usaf-lt-g (May 16, 2012)

akipal said:


> well
> i can't wait to see next step 3 (door connector)
> thanks for your post


Well I already investigated the door connector a bit. Good news is... from at least "the driver side" (LHD), the wires from the door to the control module are already there. So that's good news. I didn't really take a look at the passenger side yet.

Also good news, removing the interior A-pillar / door connector is easy. Open up the door, slip the rubber cover back. Lift the lever on the connector between the door connector and interior a-pillar connector and it comes off. Then push in the 2 tabs that hold the internal a-pillar / door connector in the door and you've got tons of room and play to access the wires.

The darn mirrors haven't arrived yet. Lol... I actually had to get a hold of a co-worker who can speak German to call over to the German Post Office to find out what the hold up is. As far as I can tell, they're just sitting int the post office waiting to be shipped.


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## akipal (Nov 28, 2009)

thank you
i will look into pillar A for the wiring the mirror

can you also look for wire diagram for the switch in the picture?
i would like to wire auto-hold and start/stop button


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## usaf-lt-g (May 16, 2012)

Start / stop button? Lol, that's an option? If it is I would imagine that's going to take a different key fob + ignition or something to make that change. What year was that offered? Do u have a specific model I can reference to pull the right diagrams?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## usaf-lt-g (May 16, 2012)

akipal said:


> thank you
> i will look into pillar A for the wiring the mirror
> 
> can you also look for wire diagram for the switch in the picture?
> i would like to wire auto-hold and start/stop button


Well I did in fact... find the Start / Stop button... but it looks like you're going to have to replace a whole lot more than that. I can't tell for sure, but the diagrams I've looked at seem to indicate you have to replace the sensors for the remote as well. The remote appears to be different, the button control, the ignition key I think is replaced .... ?? I'm not certain though. If I knew for sure all the parts you would need I could probably figure it out. But it seems like it's not just as simple as installing the button.

On another note... My mirrors FINALLY arrived today. Albeit... I was disappointed that only the Right Hand Side Mirror was auto-dim. Although both mirrors are fully motorized, the left hand side mirror is not auto-dim. THEREFORE.... I modified it 

Edit Above.


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## usaf-lt-g (May 16, 2012)

This should at least get you started...

Info On Start / Stop button...

Button Assembly:



Button Mating Connector 26-Pin:


Mating Connector Pin Repair Wire:


Button Wiring Diagram


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## akipal (Nov 28, 2009)

back to the subject...










so from which side do i pull the wire harness on the door?
1 - connector on door side
2 - connector on body side
3 - connector inside of door
4 - connector inside of cabin(a pillar)

oh and you are right
there are wires already from the door module to connector inside of door
also my door module (2013) is capable for folding and dimming side mirror
so i did not change the module but one thing i noticed
on my 2010 cc, mirror was unfolding back right after i turn the knob out of the fold position
but with existing module on 2013 cc, it unfolds about 10 seconds after switching the knob


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## usaf-lt-g (May 16, 2012)

akipal said:


> back to the subject...
> 
> so from which side do i pull the wire harness on the door?
> 1 - connector on door side
> ...


Pull the rubber protector off #2. exposing the connector. Unlatch the connector disconnecting the connector from the body.

One it's off, you can see the little plastic sides / clips holding the body side of the connetor in the door. Push those in, and then you can pull it inside the vehicle to gain slack and access the backside of it to add in the new wires.


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## usaf-lt-g (May 16, 2012)

Well for everyone who cares... I FINALLY finished this over the past weekend! And guess what?? I now have BOTH sides, left and right, fully auto-dimming and installed as part of the factory harness, so it's a very professional installation and not sloppy. It worked the first time, without a hiccup flawlessly and just as I had hoped.

This confirms that you DO NOT have to buy a separate interior auto-dimming mirror that supports the exterior autodim, as you can modify yours as I did and get the same result which saves you money.

I haven't had a chance to fully document the final steps yet, but am hoping to get to it at some point when I'm not working so much flying around the country  


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## usaf-lt-g (May 16, 2012)

Ahh.... The smell of sweet sweet success!

Mirrors are fully adapted, and working

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_7sjhhRD4A


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## giecsar (Dec 18, 2012)

usaf-lt-g said:


> I contacted the seller. Both sides actually auto-dim according to him. When they get here, I'll analyze the wiring.
> 
> Wait till you see the next project I'm undertaking after this one  Adaptive Cruise Control... they said it couldn't be done.... I beg to differ.


Hey usaf-lt-g, excellent guide! I wish there was a +REP button or something :thumbup:

My car has the power-adjustable-folding-heated-dimming-with-LED-turn-signal-lights-and-ambient-lighting-bla-bla mirrors from the factory. I should mention my car is European.
However, I noticed that my driver's side mirror actually has this *film *on it that dims it.
This means that it is not controlled by the internal mirror, right?
Anyway, is there really an advantage to having it controlled by the internal mirror? 
To me, IMHO, it is not worth it.

Also, as regards ACC... I don't think it's really that hard as people seem to think.
After doing an extensive search I found info about only 2 people who did it and claimed it was very difficult and expensive, *BUT* I also noticed something very important, they retrofitted the system on a Passat B6, not a CC! Adaptive Cruise Control was not available for the Passat, not even as an optional.. which is why it was impossible for them to find any documentation. It also meant that they had to change a lot of extra parts that most likely do not need to be changed on the CC! Anyway, we'll see..


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## wdimagineer (May 14, 2009)

giecsar said:


> Adaptive Cruise Control was not available for the Passat, not even as an optional.. which is why it was impossible for them to find any documentation. It also meant that they had to change a lot of extra parts that most likely do not need to be changed on the CC! Anyway, we'll see..


In Europe and the rest of the world, yes, it was an option on the B6 Passat. You do realize that for all intents and purposes the CC is a restyled B6, right? There is significant parts commonality between them.

I was the first to do this retrofit. It was time consuming and expensive. Parts are always more expensive when you go aftermarket. I rarely would use used items, which added more cost.


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## giecsar (Dec 18, 2012)

wdimagineer said:


> In Europe and the rest of the world, yes, it was an option on the B6 Passat. You do realize that for all intents and purposes the CC is a restyled B6, right? There is significant parts commonality between them.
> 
> I was the first to do this retrofit. It was time consuming and expensive. Parts are always more expensive when you go aftermarket. I rarely would use used items, which added more cost.


How so? I added premium bluetooth functionality in my car by installing aftermarket parts that look and work exactly as OEM parts at a fraction of the cost.
Anyway, would you be so kind to share your procedure for the installation of ACC?


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## akipal (Nov 28, 2009)

Hey usaf-lt-g
how is your project going on?
did you figure out your clock to make it working?

i have a question
i finished auto-dimming function working now i am trying to add auto folding module
it arrived yesterday on my doorstep
everything is direct plug and play i just need find 4 wires to connect
1 - power
2 - ground
3 - door lock signal 
which were easy to find and i did it
now i need to find ACC (or ignition +) for last wire but i can not find it inside of door in anywhere

can you share your diagram for the A pillar 28 pin connector layout?
if i don't find it i would need to run a wire to inside of cabin, which i hate :banghead:

thanks


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## usaf-lt-g (May 16, 2012)

akipal said:


> Hey usaf-lt-g
> how is your project going on?
> did you figure out your clock to make it working?
> 
> ...


Well let's see.... there isn't a direct wiring diagram that I can find for 28C, however the 28 pin connector in the a-pillar connects to the 20-pin connector in J386 (door module) which I do have the wiring diagram for. 

The following is what I can Deduce from a connection standpoint:



Pin 22 (of 28 Pin A Pillar Connector) - Connects to Pin 20 on J386 (20 Pin connector in door module)
Pin 3 (of 28 Pin A Pillar Connector) - Connects to Pin 10 on J386 (20 Pin connector in door module)
Pin 2 (of 28 Pin A Pillar Connector) - Connects to Pin 1 on J386 (20 Pin connector in door module)
Pin 4 (of 28 Pin A Pillar Connector) - Connects to Pin 8 on J386 (20 Pin connector in door module)
Pin 5 (of 28 Pin A Pillar Connector) - Connects to Pin 9 on J386 (20 Pin connector in door module)
Pin 6 (of 28 Pin A Pillar Connector) - Connects to Pin 15 on J386 (20 Pin connector in door module)
Pin 21 (of 28 Pin A Pillar Connector) - Connects to Pin 19 on J386 (20 Pin connector in door module)
 

According to the wiring diagrams, these are the only possible pin connections in the 28 pin connector in the A-Pillar. Now in the same order I just stated above, I'll give you the OEM Wire Color and Function of the wired connection:



Pin 22 (of 28 Pin A Pillar Connector) - Red / Yellow - Power (30)
Pin 3 (of 28 Pin A Pillar Connector) - Lilac / Brown - Signal 2 (-), mirror dimming (driver module)
Pin 2 (of 28 Pin A Pillar Connector) - Lilac / Black - Signal 1 (+), mirror dimming (driver module)
Pin 4 (of 28 Pin A Pillar Connector) - Orange / Green - CAN High
Pin 5 (of 28 Pin A Pillar Connector) - Orange / Brown - CAN Low
Pin 6 (of 28 Pin A Pillar Connector) - Lilac / White - LIN Bus
Pin 21 (of 28 Pin A Pillar Connector) - Brown - Ground (31)


For confirmation... the 28 Pin A Pillar Connector is the the one that it's in between the door and the interior of the car.


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## martinelles (Feb 10, 2012)

*MIrror Only Install?*

What do you think it would take to retrofit only the mirrors and not the autodiming function? i dont really see the need for autodiming (no pun intended) but the motorized folding would come in handly quite a bit for parking in tight spaces, driving through automatic car washes etc.... 

a few questions though. do you think the 2012 would have the necessary wiring harness/pin connector already installed such that all i would need is to install the mirror and run the wire?

secondly, will i need to VAG anything?

Thanks!


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## usaf-lt-g (May 16, 2012)

martinelles said:


> What do you think it would take to retrofit only the mirrors and not the autodiming function? i dont really see the need for autodiming (no pun intended) but the motorized folding would come in handly quite a bit for parking in tight spaces, driving through automatic car washes etc....
> 
> a few questions though. do you think the 2012 would have the necessary wiring harness/pin connector already installed such that all i would need is to install the mirror and run the wire?
> 
> ...


Depends on your model of CC.

My 2010 VR6 4Motion came with correct J386 Door Modules already. However, I'm not certain if "lesser" models don't have the feature.

I believe if your model is equipped with the "seat memory function" then your door modules are good to go. Reason being is that the "Motorized Mirrors" are also "Memory capable." So when you turn on the option, both features work.

You will at a minimum have to replace the Mirror switch with the Euro one which features the motorization switch.

You also have to replace both mirror housings with the motorized versions (this includes internal wiring in the mirror etc. I found mine on a german ebay site.

You "MAY" have to run a couple of extra wires from the new switch to the module, but again... mine was plug-n-play for that feature. It depends on your model really.

You will have to VAGCOM both door modules to enable the "motorized" feature.


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## PatricP (May 26, 2011)

usaf-lt-g,

So nothing else is need to hook up the dimming side mirrors if you have the auto dimming rear view?


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## usaf-lt-g (May 16, 2012)

PatricP said:


> usaf-lt-g,
> 
> So nothing else is need to hook up the dimming side mirrors if you have the auto dimming rear view?


:screwy:

Uh... no that's not what I said. If you want the "AUTO" dimming feature, then you need to do everything I mentioned in the DIY above. 

You have to modify the auto-dimming rear view (add 2 wires to it)

Run a new wires (create a new harness) to run to 1 or more of the doors (a-pillar) - I did both side mirrors.

Replace mirror glass with auto-dimming glass (CC's aren't normally equipped with this)

Modify existing door harness (drivers side) to add 2 wires to support auto-dim functionality and connect it to the new harness you ran to the a-pillar

Make a new wiring harness (passenger sides is non-existant) with 2 new wires to the J386 module and a-pillar.


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## PatricP (May 26, 2011)

Sorry, should have worded my question in a different manner. I saw and read all the work that you did but what I missed was if it need different mirrors and you answered that question. I'm sure I missed that part when I saw reading. Thank you for putting up with the noob question my over excited jump to question.n


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## akipal (Nov 28, 2009)

thank you

but i see no switched power in anywhere inside of door
i just ran a wire from each door to inside of cabin (to cigarette jack)
it was PITA
now it works as it meant to be

when i lock the car mirrors are folded in
when i unlock the car then turn on the car (ignition on)
they are going back to normal position

i could either choose them to unfold when unlocking or turning on ignition
i choose the second option because i want them to unfold only when i start the car
i also can fold the mirrors before exiting the car manually with mirror switch
then they will remain folded even after starting the car until unfolding back manually 

i will post video later after cleaning inside... 



usaf-lt-g said:


> Well let's see.... there isn't a direct wiring diagram that I can find for 28C, however the 28 pin connector in the a-pillar connects to the 20-pin connector in J386 (door module) which I do have the wiring diagram for.
> 
> The following is what I can Deduce from a connection standpoint:
> 
> ...


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## boogiedownberlin (Sep 3, 2012)

strange, but my side drivers mirror doesn't auto-dim. However, I had the car parked in the sun a few times and had the mirrors folded. After I came back, the drivers side mirror was dark. I started the car and unfolded the mirrors and it went back to normal. 

At night it definitely does not auto-dim.


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## raziel90 (Feb 11, 2013)

*left mirror doesn`t work*

hi

i have a passat cc with the auto dimming on the inside mirror from factory and now i have installed folding mirrors with auto dimming on the drives side, but the mirror doesn`t auto dim. what do i have to do to get it to work?


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## akipal (Nov 28, 2009)

raziel90 said:


> hi
> 
> i have a passat cc with the auto dimming on the inside mirror from factory and now i have installed folding mirrors with auto dimming on the drives side, but the mirror doesn`t auto dim. what do i have to do to get it to work?


lol 
Why are you asking a question in the thread that is about...


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## OEMplusCC (Jan 27, 2013)

Started this project myself. So far i have driver side working and i will do passenger side soon.






Here are few pics for further illustration.



Empty pins which are left there since factory




Door 28Pin connector


Pin 2 and 3 addition to 28pin connector


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## usaf-lt-g (May 16, 2012)

OEMplusCC said:


> Started this project myself. So far i have driver side working and i will do passenger side soon.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice work!  Glad to see someone else take their time with this and wire it up the right way! Good job!

Sent from my Q10 using Tapatalk


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## SMN (Aug 20, 2014)

Hi!
If connect to exterior mirror ... without connection to the door module J386?
Directly, from 28-pin connector in the left A-Pillar connectior station - to the exterior mirror

Like this....


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## larbel (Sep 4, 2016)

Hi guys,

I'm sorry about digging up such an old thread.. But I'm doing something along the line here and just wanted to see if I could get some help...

I'm trying to retrofit an '17 Audi S4 rearview mirror to my '15 S3 sedan. The problem is they have completely different wirings, after studying the wiring diagrams of both from ElsaWin, I think I've narrowed everything down, but since 8W S4 use different protocol to communicate with the driver side dimming mirror, I'll need to do exactly what you guys done here, soldering two wires to the S4 mirror which are missing right now. But I'm having a hard time trying to figure out how to take the mirror apart.. It's the new frameless design and I *think* it's from Gentex although it doesn't say so on the mirror. Does anyone has any clue on how should I go about taking this apart? It looks almost identical to the Gentex series 8 frameless mirror but with less buttons. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!!

Here's the 8W A4/S4 mirror...


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## cipri4tech (Sep 2, 2017)

*Please update the pictures in the DIY page*

I would like to thank usaf-lt-g for setting up this thread and posting the detailed instructions. 
Can we have the pictures updated since all of them are NOT showing? 

Thank you.


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## solong (Dec 29, 2013)

The auto dimming side mirrors are offered on 2017 cc (last model year before new gen) in the USA, right?


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## usaf-lt-g (May 16, 2012)

cipri4tech said:


> I would like to thank usaf-lt-g for setting up this thread and posting the detailed instructions.
> Can we have the pictures updated since all of them are NOT showing?
> 
> Thank you.


I've updated my photos.

Apparently crappy ass photobucket has started to "charge" for premium accounts if you want to link photos to a forum. I've switched them over to imgbb and updated the thread.



> The auto dimming side mirrors are offered on 2017 cc (last model year before new gen) in the USA, right?


If the USA model got it in 2017.... it would only be present on the Left Hand DRIVERs side. My tutorial is for adapting it in BOTH side mirrors.


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## OEMplusCC (Jan 27, 2013)

usaf-lt-g said:


> If the USA model got it in 2017.... it would only be present on the Left Hand DRIVERs side. My tutorial is for adapting it in BOTH side mirrors.


Well pretty much any CC in the world has a dimming mirror only on the driver side. But having them on the both sides is the best :thumbup:

Also, I'm pretty sure '2013 CC VR6 Executive' was the first CC in the US to have a dimming mirror.


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