# How to access and change spark plugs on the V8 engine [TOC]



## AudianerA6 (Sep 19, 2007)

*How to get to the ignition/spark plugs in a Phaeton V8*

I would like to have a look at the condition of the ignition plugs in my V8 Phaeton.
According to the service plan, it's already time to change them and it also seems that the car has lost some power when accelerating.
Is it even possible to change them with the 'usual' knowledge (knows how to change a tire and so on) or should I better go to a professional.



_Modified by AudianerA6 at 12:22 PM 8-21-2009_


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## Jxander (Aug 5, 2008)

*Re: How to get to the ignition/spark plugs in a Phaeton V8 (AudianerA6)*

I haven't done this task so I'm certainly not well-qualified to give you advice. According to the service records on my Phaeton, plugs were replaced at about 60k miles, which was just prior to my ownership.
Nevertheless, there is nothing too exotic about changing plugs on the V8 Phaeton other than tight quarters and some disassembly to make space. I believe you have to remove the air filter and air box on the passenger side to gain access to some of the plugs. Also the ignition wiring to the sparkplugs must be removed or pulled out of the way. To do this requires opening a connector which is easy if you have the special tool and is probably prone to breakage if you try adlibbing. Also coils can become stuck to plugs and may be difficult to remove without another special tool. I have heard some say they merely pulled theirs off by hand - but Murphy's Law may prevail. 
Heads are aluminum, so care should be taken when retorquing new plugs and ant-sieze compound should be used so plugs don't freeze in place.
Perhaps someone will chime in that has actually done the job and can give you a better insight.
Good luck.


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## zenmoused (Nov 6, 2008)

I'm interested in this as well. I haven't delved into it yet, but I wouldn't be surprised if there was some "gotcha" with replacing the plugs on this car. It's not exactly a mechanic-friendly vehicle... Anyone accomplish this yet? Also, what plugs did you use?


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: How to get to the ignition/spark plugs in a Phaeton V8 (AudianerA6)*

I changed the spark plugs on my W12 powered Phaeton, under the direct supervision of the Master Technician at my VW dealer. Here are the things I remember about doing this (it was several years ago):
*1)* You need a special VW tool to remove the "coil pack" from the spark plug. Photo of the special tool is below. Don't even think about removing the coil pack without using the special tool.
*2)* The spark plug is way down at the bottom of a hole that extends at least 6 inches into the engine. This means you need a special socket that grabs the spark plug, and an extension on the socket wrench.
*3)* You have to vacuum out the hole before removing the spark plug, just in case any dirt or grain of sand got in there. My VW dealer has a unique air-powered vacuum that has a foot-long, 1/4 inch tube extension for this purpose.
*4)* There is a defined torque value for the new spark plug, this must be respected, so, you need a quality torque wrench to install the new one.
Michael

*Special Tool for Removing Coil-Over-Plug to get access to Spark Plug*


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: How to get to the ignition/spark plugs in a Phaeton V8 (PanEuropean)*

This is what the coil packs look like when they have been removed:


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## Paldi (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: How to get to the ignition/spark plugs in a Phaeton V8 (AudianerA6)*

Mine were replaced at the 80k service. On some of the plugs the center electrode was worn down to be level with the porcelain insulator. Not good... I was feeling a rough idle. All is good now.


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## zenmoused (Nov 6, 2008)

*Re: How to get to the ignition/spark plugs in a Phaeton V8 (PanEuropean)*

That's some good information Michael, thank you for sharing. I'm assuming you replaced yours with OEM plugs, are they platinum?


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: How to get to the ignition/spark plugs in a Phaeton V8 (zenmoused)*

Beats me what they are made of. The parts department ordered them from VW, and we just confirmed that they were the correct part number and then stuck them in the holes.
I've attached a photo below. Note that on the W12, the plugs get their first change at 64,000 km (about 40K miles). All the plugs that we removed appeared to be in good condition, and I can't say that I noticed any difference in the way the engine operated after changing the plugs. But, with the W12 engine, you don't really notice the engine that much anyway.
Michael


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: How to get to the ignition/spark plugs in a Phaeton V8 (PanEuropean)*

I'm surprised by the photo of your plugs.
I had mine recently changed on my V8, and the garage showed me the old ones they took out of the engine.
I was surprised to see that they had 4 electrodes on the rim, and not only one.
It may be a different spec on the W12 ?


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## zenmoused (Nov 6, 2008)

*Re: How to get to the ignition/spark plugs in a Phaeton V8 (Zaphh)*

That is odd, because most OEM plugs are single prong. If you bought the car used, maybe someone had the plugs changed already?


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: How to get to the ignition/spark plugs in a Phaeton V8 (zenmoused)*

I bought the car used, but it had "only" 43Kmiles on the clock, and came with only 2 simple invoices (oil change and tyres replacement). So I would think the plugs were the original.


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## FastMover (Aug 22, 2003)

I am new to this forum but a long-time Mk IV R32 owner. The Phaeton and I got acquainted with a combination oil change/filter, spark plugs, air cleaners, and new high beam bulbs. 
After reading Bentley and poking around, I figured that the air boxes needed to come out and boy, does that single move make a huge difference. Plenty of room to move hands around into high torque positions.
Get the tops of each air box off the car. Then, undo the two screws holding each wiring loom to the ignition coils, undo the clips at each ignition coil and push them all downward. 
You can purchase T10166 (W8 and W12 Coil Tool) or T40039 (V8 Coil Tool) at the VW online tool site. This will expedite the removal however they are not necessary if you have the right technician tools at your disposal.
Remove all coil packs, checking for rust. mine had never been removed and looked to be in very good shape. There is another tool from VW that is the best spark plug tool and it is 3122B. This one I highly recommend. 4 Plugs out, 4 Plugs in. Torque to 30 N*m. Replace coil packs, DO not attach wiring loom yet. Do other side.
With the left air box out, perfect time to change the oil. Don't bother with the small screw from the bottom as the positive lead to the alternator needs to be manuevered out of the way and looked complicated. There is very little oil under the top access cover so a few well place rags will limit any spillage and is nothing some carburator cleaner will not remove. I will recommend Motul 300V 15W-50 Motorsport Oil. In the 30 minutes of driving, it dropped from gauge oil temperature from 200F down to 180F. It did the same with my R32 and it never hurts to keep the engine cooler. 
At this point, I also changed the high beam bulbs.
The two grommets need a small dab of white grease on them. You will need to maneuver the box around, past the ignition coil loom which should still be loose and can be pushed downward to facilitate box entry. The box drops into place and the plastic pins on the air box drop into the grommets. Lock the box into place with the single screw. Now put the wiring loom connectors onto the coil packs and then put the two screws back. From this point, its the top of the air boxes back on and you are nearly finished.
I was very surprised to see how much of the spark plug tip had been eroded through normal wear. The new plugs with correct gap really make the V8 almost snarl. The combination of new oil, new plugs, new air filter (with snow filters gone) really made the difference.
Next it will be onto the timing belt, ribbed belt and water pump...


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## brosen (Jun 21, 2009)

*Re: How to get to the ignition/spark plugs in a Phaeton V8 (PanEuropean)*

Just bought a new set for my car:
















http://lh5.ggpht.com/_VxwofyI3XaA/Sp8iEwcSHgI/AAAAAAAALRs/9k-****GWF0/s640/IMG_0798.JPG


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: How to get to the ignition/spark plugs in a Phaeton V8 (brosen)*

Guess the plugs look different between the V8 and the W12 engine.
Michael


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## Paldi (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: How to get to the ignition/spark plugs in a Phaeton V8 (PanEuropean)*

Mine looked like yours... they gave me a look at the old ones... only one "prong".


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: How to get to the ignition/spark plugs in a Phaeton V8 (Paldi)*

Mine were exactly like Bernard's.


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## FastMover (Aug 22, 2003)

The difference is that the single electrode are manufactured by NGK and the multi-electrode is manufactured by Bosch. The P/N's for the V8 and the W12 are in fact different numbers.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (FastMover)*

*Archival Note: * Related post, discussing W12 spark plug replacement - Spark plugs on W12.


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## todd74690 (Aug 5, 2008)

*Spark Plug Gapping*

Hello I have a 2005 4.2 Phaeton and the 60000 miles service is due. Ive been on line to order all the parts required to complete the service. I recieved the recommended Bosch BSH080598 spark plugs. Very strange looking plug>> Does anyone know if these need to be gapped? And if so how?


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Spark Plug Gapping (todd74690)*

I believe that the OEM specification spark plug has the electrode in the middle and the ground all around the perimeter - therefore no need to set a gap.
You will know for sure when you pick up the parts...


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## zenmoused (Nov 6, 2008)

Has anyone tried Iridium plugs in their car? The folks over at the Touareg forum are reporting increased fuel efficiency, and of course Iridum plugs have twice the service life of Platium plugs.


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## zenmoused (Nov 6, 2008)

*Re: (zenmoused)*

Well I'll answer my own question here. I just installed NGK 6418 Iridium plugs in my Phaeton. Installation was a breeze- I'd recommend it to anyone who has an hour of time and doesn't want to part with $400 at the dealership.
I decided on Iridium plugs after quite a bit of research. The thing about Iridium is it's harder than Platinum and Copper, so they can make a super fine wire in the center of the plug, which reduces the amount of voltage needed from the ignition system. This translates into a hotter more consistent spark from a plug that will last 100k miles. 
The car loves them. She has an audibly louder "snarl" now, which is impressive since I wasn't really expecting any immediately noticeable difference. We'll see how the fuel efficiency is after a few tanks, but my butt dyno says the car is a bit peppier.
Advance Auto has these for $7 each and you can usually find a coupon for $10 off your order. 
Total amount of money spent on this project: $50 ($350 savings







)


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## Tully Lee (Jan 3, 2011)

*Spark Plug replacement...?*

How difficult of a job?

What brand spark plug should I go with?

Any concerns with taking off the coil packs to gain access to spark plugs?

Thanks,


Tully Lee


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## johnt26 (Dec 3, 2009)

Tully Lee,

There is some good info, on the TOC about spark plugs...

Try this thread:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4531288


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## johnt26 (Dec 3, 2009)

Tully Lee's question was stand-alone when it was asked, I think a Magic Moderator placed it in the correct thread!
And that's the story I'm stickin' to!


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

johnt26 said:


> I think a Magic Moderator placed it in the correct thread!


Exactly.

When someone starts a new thread by posting a question addressing a topic that is already listed in the Phaeton Forum 'Table of Contents' (FAQ by Category), I append the new thread onto the existing topic.

A 'redirect' notice, consisting of an icon with an arrow wrapped around it, is then created. The redirect message persists for a month (to let the original poster find their question), then disappears.

Michael


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## johnt26 (Dec 3, 2009)

Thanks Michael!
I saw the redirect after I posted my comment.
Feel free to delete my post with the link!


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## johnt26 (Dec 3, 2009)

I changed the plugs as part of the 60K service, I decided to go with the Iridiums since Zenmoused blazed the trail.

It was a very simple job. The only issue I ran into was that two of the coil packs appear as if they were improperly installed during the recall. The rubber sleeve on them were rolled up inside the plug housing causing them to not seat properly.

It 's too soon to tell if there is any improvement in power or economy.


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## chillson (Sep 6, 2010)

Hi John, did you use a special tool to remove the coil packs? If not, how did you do it? I bought the Iridiums too but have never changed a spark plug in my life. I have done two oil changes on my Phaeton and changed out the oil and air filters so I like to do what I can myself. My fear is messing up the coil packs. Lastly, did you have to gap the plugs or are they OK out of the box? Thanks...Jay


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## johnt26 (Dec 3, 2009)

Hi Jay,

I purchased the coil pack tool, fairly inexpensive.
I left the gap as it was, I did a bit of searching around (very little) and didn't see anything on gap information. I figured the iridium are not "normal" plugs so the factory gap is probably the best way to go.

The plugs I removed were the 4 sided factory style plugs.

The job is a piece of cake if you've done the oil and filters before. I did use never sieze on the plug threads and I was told to change the plugs on a cold engine.

I believe it explains the procedure in the thread, but if not, to remove the coil pack harness unclip the lock on each pack connector with a screwdriver (you'll hear it unclip), then take out the two bolts holding the harness. Finally, wiggle the harness off of all four of the connectors together, reinstall the same way.

Good Luck,


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## chillson (Sep 6, 2010)

Thanks John! I will pick up the coil pack tool before I give it a try. Thanks again for the reply. 
I appreciate it...Jay


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## johnt26 (Dec 3, 2009)

Jay, 
If you can't source one inexpensively I could ship you mine, I'm hoping that I won't need it for awhile now...besides my other VW is a no spark-plug Diesel.


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## chillson (Sep 6, 2010)

Thanks John. I sent you a PM...Jay


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## tomasty (May 24, 2011)

*DIY V8 Phaeton Spark Plug Replacement (38 Pictures)*

*My Phaeton has 168,000 KMs on it, from the service record I have, I don't see the spark plug has ever been changed, did some research on the forum, found lots of useful infomation, but I can't find a detailed instruction anywhere online regarding Phaeton spark plug change, so I will write one up.

There are special VW tools for this job: Ignition Coil Puller T40039 and Spark Plug Tool 3122B, I went to my local VW dealer, they told me they can't sell me the VW tool and even they can, they are expensive.Well,I was able to finish this job without them anyway.The extension bar and socket I bought from NAPA Auto Parts work like a charm.

Unlike some people reported the OEM plug on VW is made by NGK, on my Phaeton, the old plug I pulled out is BOSCH 4 electrode plug with VW and Audi logo on it, so I would say that is the OEM plug, the new plug I use is BOSCH Platinum +4. I got them from http://www.autopartsway.ca/

The job will require you to remove the airbox to make room for the tools. Believe it or not, the toughest part of the whole job for me is to remove the ignition coil and coil connector.If you have the VW coil puller tool, it will be much easier.I just use a flat head screw driver and both my hands, it wasn't easy, but it is not impossible.

Also just a note, the Phaeton engine bay is very tight,there are very limited space for tools to move around, so you will find some of the screws are harder to remove, just be patient and be creative with the tools you use.

OK, let's start:

The new BOSCH Plugs:



Tools I used:



First thing is to remove the airbox, unscrew 4 screws, and undo two clamps, remove the top of the airbox with the air flow meter and air hoses









It is good time to clean the air filter and snow screen, mine is dirty enough,please note,the air filter on North American Phaeton is the "dusty type"







Everything out of the way and ready for the next setp





Unscrew the screw holding the iginition wiring harness, the space is limited, so be creative with your tool






The coil connector is a real headache for first timer, the trick is to use a flat head screw driver to pry the clip on the connector, when you hear a click, means it's unlocked, you should be able to pull the connector off, of course, that is in the ideal world, in real, these connectors cost me most of my time, just don't give up





Time to remove the coil pack,I used a flat head screw driver on some of the coils to pry them off, some I used a differnt tool, and some I was able to use my hands to pull some off, I also kept track of the order of the coils, so they go back to their original cylinder.







You will need a long extension tube with a socket in the end to reach for the spark plug



The pulled out old plug, it is made by BOSCH, with 4 electrode, the new plug also has 4 electrode, but it is a different design







Use a torque wrench to put the new plug back on, torque it to 28 NM




All the new plugs are installed




Clean snow screen ready to be installed back



Put everything back together



All in all, it wasn't too hard, as long as you have the right tool and enough patience.

Hop this helps!

Tomas*


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## Phat One (Jul 10, 2009)

great job, nice pictures
Graham


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## Jxander (Aug 5, 2008)

Tomas:

Great post - this should be a great help to many forum members. It's definitely a good DIY for anyone not afraid to turn a wrench. I had my plugs replaced by my VW tech when the coil recall was done. However, i did not do the same on my 4.2l V8 Touareg as the mileage on it was much lower. So I may be able to use your info to help on my Touareg. 

Amazing how good your "old" plugs looked.

Jim X


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## coolsig (Jan 4, 2011)

Great post. Very informative. 

Thanks
Noel.


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## johnt26 (Dec 3, 2009)

Tomas,

Nice post, I'm sure it will compliment the TOC discussion on the V8 plug change.

I sourced the coil pack puller on Amazon I believe, it wasn't too expensive.


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## tomasty (May 24, 2011)

Thanks guys! Glad if you think it is helpful, I will be posting more in the future, I will be changing the fuel filter on my Phaeton soon, I will document that as well.

Tomas


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

Do you plan to change it just for the fun ? 

Your photos were great.

P.


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## tomasty (May 24, 2011)

Zaphh said:


> Do you plan to change it just for the fun ?
> 
> Your photos were great.
> 
> P.


Hi Zaphh,

No, it is not for fun, I want to change the fuel filter because I believe the VW fuel filter is just like the VW Transmission ATF, it is not a "life time" item, it should be replaced at certain interval, it doesn't look like as straight forward as I thought, because there are several vacum lines and the fuel lines on the way, we will see how it goes.

Tomas


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## copernicus0001 (Nov 30, 2004)

*Torque with and without anti-seize*

Hello Everyone!

Tomas - A very nice DIY write-up.

I needed to make one comment regarding the use of anti-seize on spark plugs. 

Modern spark plugs are designed with special plating to prevent corrosion and seizure. Anti-seize should not be necessary if the plugs are changed at recommended intervals.

If one elects to employ anti-seize lubricant on the threads of new spark plugs, the torque should be reduced by approximately 1/3 of the specified torque in order to avoid over-stressing. Anti-seize compounds have a torque multiplying effect when installing spark plugs. This can lead to thread distortion and thread galling.

In the case of the V8 Phaeton, the 28 nm torque should be reduced to approximately 18 nm when using anti-seize lubricant on the spark plug threads.


Douglas


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## okmd (Dec 14, 2006)

*Broken coil connector clips*

Tomas- thanks for the write up. I've had my Phaeton since last June. It had just under 53k miles when I bought it. Sometimes I'm comfortable doing my own work, sometimes not. I went to my dealership in Tulsa, OK last month for a 60k service. I don't usually go to the dealership, but this car is complicated and they were the only choice with Saturday hours. They didn't have spark plugs in stock or pollen filters. They clearly hadn't seen a Phaeton in a while. They said the Audi dealership across the street (different ownership) didn't have spark plugs, either. So I bought everything on Amazon and decided to do it myself after reading your write-up.

I had little trouble up to the removal of the coil connector clips. (As Edd China would say, "It's a bit fiddly".) On the driver's side, the first and fourth connector (front to back) clicked and just came off. On the middle two, the clips broke off, but the coil connectors came apart. I didn't feel like I did anything different between the ones that broke and the ones that didn't. I changed out the spark plugs then without problem. On the passenger side, the first connector clicked and came off. The second clip broke and the connector didn't come loose. Same thing on #3. I left #4 alone. Now I don't no how to get the connector loose.

My two questions:
How do I get the coil connectors off if the clips break?
How much trouble am I in (at least in the future) due to those broken clips?

Thanks in advance for any and all assistance.


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## nhdoc (Jun 18, 2010)

Here is the correct way to remove them without breaking them:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4JP0Y6byxc

A picture is worth a thousand words. Also, I would not be too concerned about the broken clips. Every VW/Audi car I have had has had at least several of them broken. If you have the screws holding the harness in place it will never move enough to come off. Even without the screws I have never seen the harness move with the clips broken. There seems to be ample friction holding them on.

On the ones that broke, I can usually get them free by putting a scredriver under the tab in the back and prying gently to get the ridge to clear the tab on the coil pack. You need to pry and push the plug end away at the same time so it is a little awkward but they do eventually come off.

If it really bothers you there are replacement plugs sold by VW and you need a special tool to remove the wiring from the old plug and transplant it into the new one. I think the plugs run around $20 each. Here is how that is done:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lrs8-KtJGus


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## okmd (Dec 14, 2006)

Thanks, I'll give it another shot. Have a wedding to go to this weekend and I want to drive the Phaeton.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Changed my spark plugs this afternoon. It was a pretty easy job, the most difficult thing being getting access to the rear screws that hold the loom in place. The plastic surround was all broken away on the passenger side, so I couldn't even put that one back in. One coil connector had been broken by the dealer, of course. The others came off pretty easily, the trick being to push up and in from beneath the wires, while pushing in the opposite direction on the clip until you hear it click, then wobble it off a bit while keeping the clip disengaged. The coil packs pull off pretty easily with channel lock pliers, just pull & wiggle. If you want to follow the VW workshop manual procedure, buy some dielectric silicone grease and apply a thin bead around the rubber seal inside the tip of the coil packs. The old plugs were a mess (changed at 60k service, car is now at 121k). Can't tell any difference with the engine running though.


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