# How to build a relatively inexpensive, reliable, 'powerful' 2.0 8v.



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

*How to build a relatively inexpensive, reliable, 'powerful' MK3 2.0 8v.*

I see a lot of threads popping up about HOW DO I MAKE MY MK3 8v faster!?!?. This should keep them down, if those people can read. PS: OBD1 and OBD2 are on board diagnostics. 93-95 was OBD1, 96-99 is OBD2.* I will post links at the end of the thread.*

First off, your 2.0 8v ABA has 115*bhp* @ 5400 RPM with around 122lb/ft of torque at just 3200 RPM! It was meant for economy, not power, but *don't lose faith in this motor!* There are a few things you can do for around 1500 dollars to make it about 130-140*bhp.* pretty easily depending on your part choices, and make it much more fun to drive. The components necessary to make power cheaply would be an aftermarket camshaft, a chip, and an exhaust. 
Keep reading to learn more.

Here is some inspiration: **my old heavily modified All motor 8v**









*INTAKE:*
Your car comes with an airbox from the factory. It is made to breathe enough air to make optimum A/F ratios and to muffle the induction noise..You can do a lot to change that, but the stock airbox flows well for what it is, especially if you swiss-cheese-mod it, which is linked later on, and/or running a fresh-air hose from the front of the airbox where the snorkel is to the mesh vents on the bottom of the bumper. That's direct ram air. The stock airbox flow well for what they are, though! You can also get a K&N panel filter(around 50 bucks), or a USRT high performance panel filter (25 bucks!) and put it in the stock airbox, for about 1whp. Now, that may not seem like much, but HP to the wheels isn't cheap in an ABA. I will post a DIY on swiss-cheesing at the bottom of the page. 
As a matter of fact, TT tuning recommends using the stock airbox on MK3 2.0's!

Buying a cone filter from pep boys and placing it on the end of the MAF is going to lower your HP, and TQ, and just add noise..

Now, you can get a "real" intake, which usually consists of a piece of pipe and a conical filter, from various different vendors. You will want one that is away from the hot air of the engine bay, and best case scenario, should have a 90* bend somewhere in it so the MAF gets accurate readings, such as one from Autotech, that goes down into the fenderwell. Or you can go with a conical filter with a heatshield set up. Both styles will increase your MPG slightly, and give you a nice growl when you step on it!

Neuspeed makes a good intake, which is basically a heatshield around a conical filter. They call it the P-Flo. These add pretty good power gains, and give a throaty growl when you step on the go pedal. They add a few whp, but not 5-8 as Neuspeed claims. 
Eurosport also sells 2 different intake systems for the MK3 8v. One that is piping that goes down into the fender well, like Autotech's, and one with a heatshield around a conical filter like Neuspeed's P-Flo. (I don't recommend one that goes down into the fender well unless you live somewhere that never rains due to the risk of hydrolocking your engine!!) 
The company INJEN makes a nice looking intake, which is a aluminum top section of the airbox and piping from the throttle body to the airbox. It uses a conical filter inside of the airbox. I like this one alot because it incorporates a source of direct cold air which is missing on most conical air intakes, and the metal piping is marginally better for flow. 
ABD makes a intake arm out of metal, called the Big Bore intake. Now, it isn't worth the money in my opinion, because all it does is replace the harmonica looking hose with metal (which is marginally better for flow), and costs alot of money, even used (60+ dollars). 
If you really want the best looking 2.0 intake set up, go with the ABD intake arm, and a Neuspeed P-flo heatshield (60 bucks on WRD), and get a DRY FLOW K&N filter.

You can also make your own heatshield, with Sallad's DIY, which will be posted at the bottom of this page. Thanks to Sallad for the write up. :thumbup:

*Camshaft:*
The cam from the factory is good for low end TQ, but not for high end power. Your engine will run out of steam at about 5000 rpm, and shifting beyond that is pointless, for power.
There are MULTIPLE options for a performance cam, but it really depends if your car is OBD1 or OBD2, and if you're willing to swap out the valve springs. 
If you have an OBD2 cylinder head you are limited by the lift of the cam, unless you swap out the valve springs for HD ones, sold by TT tuning, Autotech, SCHRICK, etc. The highest duration cam I'd recommend without swapping out valvesprings in an OBD2 is 260* _(max lift is .432")_. Anything higher, you risk valve float aka internal engine damage. 
If you have an OBD1, you lucked out, and can run a higher duration/lift cam (_.450 max lift_)! But don't rev it past 6800 RPM or so for long periods, or you could get valve float.

Now, there are multiple cams, all stating to do different things. I have personally found the TT 272* or 276* cam to be the best all around cams for a daily driven car. 
I followed 911_fan's advice, and set an _Adjustable camgear_ to +4 advance, and it adds a significant amount of low end TQ without sacrificing HP with the TT 276*!
For an Automatic, I'd recommend getting a TT 260*, or if you feel like pushing your luck with the trans, a TT 266* or Autotech 270*, if you're OBD1 or want to upgrade valve springs on a OBD2 head.

_I'll go over some performance camshafts quickly._

*TT eco grind:* Useless in your MK3. It says it'll give you better fuel economy, but it really is meant for a MK1 caddy truck. That's a 1000lb weight difference! Don't bother getting this unless you're using an ABA in a mk1 

*Autotech 260:* 
Autotech uses a 260 intake side, but a 256 exhaust side. The 256 exhaust side is actually worse than stock in terms of lift, this cam is useful if you just want a cam to give your car a little more power to rev to redline, not much else. They were originally meant for G60 engines. Decent for low boost applications!

*TT 260:* Decent power gains, maybe 5whp, great first cam for a OBD2 engine. More pep. Pulls to 6200 RPM way harder than stock. 

*TT 268/260:* Used mainly for FI (forced induction) setups. Decent in N/A cars if you want to go one step above the 260* and you're OBD2 with stock valve springs, or planning on going FI later down the road.

*Autotech 270:* Great overall cam, no idle issues, 8-10HP gained with a mildly modded 2.0 (_HD valvesprings are needed to run this in a OBD2, this cam is around .449" of lift, the max lift for OBD1 stock springs is .450!_) Autotech sells a whole kit including the cam, new lifters, retainers, HD springs; for around 450 bucks, out of MJM autohaus's shop. Good if you want to use it in a OBD2 engine and do it the right way the first time!

*TT 266(aka270):*Good power across the powerband, a good choice for a first cam if you're going to upgrade valvesprings(needed in OBD2 engines!) Pulls from 2500 to around 6500. 

*TT 268:* high performance cam from VW. It was used in certain 8v's (not in the USA.) Good mid to high end, good for OBD1 and a good over all cam. Good for high boost applications, too.

*Neuspeed 268:* GREAT OBD1 camshaft. Great powerband. Has a 113* lobe center, which means better low and mid end power than the TT 268*! Hard to come by, as Neuspeed doesn't make new ones anymore.

*TT 272:* TT just recently restocked these. They're a high performance cam VW designed and had SCHRICK make for them, but they never got to production vehicles.. They are a very happy medium in-between a 270* and a 276*. They pull hard to ~6800 RPM. They're great for a first cam for a OBD1 engine, and OBD2 engines if you update the valve springs! Great idle quality for such a high duration camshaft. 
*TT 276:* Best overall cam for these engines IMO. Great top-end without sacrificing much low end power. Pulls hard from 3000 to 7000 RPM. Lopey idle.

*TT 276 WLCA:* This cam is a wide lobe center angle cam. It is meant for high boost applications. Makes great power, pulls hard from 3000RPM to 7200+, choppy idle, but nothing too bad if your idle is above 950 RPM's. 

*TT 288:* This is a very high duration camshaft. Sure, it'll give you alot of power, but I ran one for a while and shifting at 4k is annoying and your MPG will go down to like 20.

*TT 298:* Best power for an ABA but you'll sacrifice driveability., best used for a ITB or carb set up. I ran one in my MK2 track coupe, it had no problem pulling to 8000rpm.. but it was a strictly track use vehicle. 


*Adjustable camgear:* 
These are used to adjust the cam's powerband. You set it to advance to lower the cams powerband, IE: 3-6k, or retard it to bring it higher IE: 4-7. Of course, this isn't an exact art, and the best way to do this is to dynotune it, retard/advance, and go another run. Not everyone has the money to spend a few hours on a dyno, so they use the "seat of the pants" dyno. Stay away from any with aluminum teeth, as they can shred through your timing belt after a while because they get sharp edges on the teeth! TT makes the best one in my opinion. It's basically a OEM camgear with the center cut out and replaced. Neuspeed makes a great piece, too, but the teeth can get sharp!

*Chip:*
No, not potato chips, or french fries if you're blut ee british bloke. A chip is basically telling the brain of your car to do different things with the air, fuel, timing, gets rid of speed limiters, raises rev limit, etc. There are alot of options when it comes to chips. It is first based on whether you have OBD1 or OBD2. OBD1 requires soldering, and OBD2 is plug and play, like a N64 cartridge. Second, it varies if you have a aftermarket camshaft or not. If you don't, a chip will add a few ponies (TT's chip adds 7whp at around 3k RPM!), and make the car more drivable for daily driving. Most cam file chips raise the idle to around 1000 so you don't have to worry about stalling while in neutral at a light.

If you do have a aftermarket cam, you should get a matching chip. Companies usually go by the INTAKE side of the cam, so if you have a 260 intake and 256 exhaust side, you'll want a 260 chip. 

TT makes good chips for cammed 8v's. GIAC does as well, and they make good products. So does C2, which vends out of BFI. C2 software costs a little more than TT's chip, but is worth it, because the software is newer and it has many additional quirks. The C2 chip won't throw a CEL if you get rid of the CAT, along with many other nice things.

Both of those companies make non-cam chips, as does Autotech, BBM, Neuspeed, and GIAC. They all add HP throughout the rev range, and add TQ, too. They make the car much easier to drive because peak gains are around 3k RPM, raise the rev limiter (not really that big of a deal), and most require 91+ octane gas, but the ABA will pull enough timing if you had to run 89 or 87, even.

*Exhaust:* 
The stock exhaust diameter chokes the engine. It is less than 2" in some areas! Now, almost every VW aftermarket company makes an exhaust system. First off, MAKE SURE IT IS MANDREL BENT!! Crush bent exhaust systems can actually make you lose power, and just gain noise. Mandrel bending is shown to flow 30%+ better than crush bent tubing. A good system will cost between 200-600 dollars, depending on what you want for muffler choices and what the piping is made of.

If you're running an intake and a chip, and that is it, you'll want a 2.25" system. If you're running an aftermarket camshaft, you'll want a 2.5" system for the increased power at high RPM (6k+). The reduced restriction from bigger tubing will also increase your MPG 1 or 2 points. :thumbup:

TT sells a good system for cheap, but goes up in price due to the different muffler options. Some of the muffler options ARE NOT WORTH THE EXTRA MONEY! If you bought the base 2.25" system with the dynomax muffler for 255, and wanted a Borla Muffler, TT wants 390 dollars for the system! That's 135 dollars for a Borla Muffler. You can get a Borla 2.25" 14" long case, 2.25" centre/centre outlet/inlet, for under 100 dollars, easy.

Pacesetter sells a nice system, too, but I have heard they rust out kind of fast. 
Magnaflow makes a 2.25" system that sounds great, and is stainless steel. 
Eurosport makes a 2.25" system, which sounds pretty nice, but for the money.. You can do better in my opinion.
Flowmaster makes a 2.25" system, too, and it sounds nice. The cheapest 2.25" Stainless steel exhaust I've found is by OBX, but it sounds like crap. 
Neuspeed makes a 60mm (2.4") System. It is the quietest aftermarket exhaust I've heard on a MK3. It uses 2 high flow mufflers and 1 resonator to provide low exhaust restriction and excellent sound. It has a "DTM" style tip. I really like this exhaust system, they're polished up like chrome, and they're stainless steel. They're on clearance on Neuspeed's website for 499.99!

Your options for 2.5" systems are sort of limited. 2.5" piping has been shown to increase high end power with no decrease to low end TQ on the dyno. You won't really need a 2.5" system with just a intake, because you'll want to shift before 6k anyway. 

Autotech sells a great 2.5" system with a Magnaflow muffler. 
TT sells 2.5" systems, but they list them under VR6 exhaust. The VR6 exhaust WILL work on a 2.0. They start cheap, and go up in price as you add another resonator, or change the muffler brand (sometimes a rip off for the muffler price!). They offer stainless steel or aluminumized. Stainless systems last longer, obviously, and have a better warranty. 

*Header:* 
There are a few header options for your engine. The stock log type manifold does not do a good job of flowing exhaust. 
There are 2 major designs of headers: 4-2-1 and 4-1, 4-1 will move the powerband up a bit, 4-2-1 is better for mid-range. Raceland sells a header, as does OBX.
If you want a 4-1, your options are a pacesetter header or a TT race header. TT tuning sells two different "race headers". Both are 4-1, and one has 1 1/2" Primaries and a provision for a CAT. The other one is "better" because the primaries are bigger (1 5/8"), and it deletes the CAT. Now, they are expensive (450 and 425, respectively!) and they don't have warranties .. but TT makes good products.
Now, if you're a bit tech-savvy, and you can find a mk4 exhaust manifold (flows 8% better than stock!) and get a TT race downpipe, and call it a day. It will require either leaving a o2 sensor in the mk4 manifold, or bolting the hole off, because you only need 1 of the bungs. The TT race downpipe deletes your CAT, which adds maybe 1-3 HP, but you'll probably fail emissions. 

*Testpipe:* 
A testpipe is basically deleting your catalytic converter. They're good for a few HP, but if you're concerned about emissions, you won't want to get one of these. Plenty of companies sell these, but *42 draft designs* sells them the cheapest, at 95 dollars.

*MK4 intake manifold:* 
The MK4 intake manifold flows better than your stock manifold. Much, much better. To do this swap, you'll need the mk4 lower and upper intake manifold, the valve cover, and a few other things. It changes your TB position from the left side of the engine bay to the right, which requires you to make your own intake, extend your MAF wiring, and move your battery to someplace else if you want to make a "Real" COLD air intake. I will post a DIY at the bottom of the page.

*Aftermarket intake manifold:*

The MK3 ABA intake manifold is terrible for flow. If you want to get the most power out of your ABA, and you don't want to have to get a MK4 manifold set up (which only flows a little better..) get a SRI. A short runner intake or a long runner intake are specially made for your engine (usually) and they flow extremely well (if made correctly). 

USRT makes a wonderful piece for the ABA, it's a great billet SRI. It has all of the OEM fittings for the brake booster, IAT sensor, etc. Stock throttle body works perfect, you can order different fittings for a VR or a aftermarket throttle body, though, too!
It will give your car the biggest power gain you'll see N/A aside from a big cam and a tune. It will give you ~10whp on a STOCK engine. It will move the powerband up, and peak power will no longer fall on it's face after the peak. It will pull much harder through the 6k RPM range. The great thing about the USRT piece is you don't lose any low end power. Another great thing is the noise. The SRI makes a great growl under WOT that sounds akin to ITB's. It sounds wonderful, simply wonderful, 1000x better than WOT with a cone filter.


That is about all you can do for N/A, unless you want to spend a ton of money on boost. We're building a reliable, inexpensive motor, remember? No need for boost. With the basic mods (intake, chip, cam, exhaust) your engine will be peppy and will keep up with most cars on the road today.

*If you want to boost your motor, keep reading for some options on FI.*


*FORCED INDUCTION*
Using forced induction on an ABA is pretty popular. The engine comes from the factory with a forged bottom end, and a low compression ratio - great for boost. You can either use a Turbo or a Supercharger. Now, a Turbo is less reliable in certain peoples eyes, but it's all relative to how it's set up. Now, alot of people sell kits, and I'll briefly go over them, but first, know you should run a 2.5" or bigger exhaust system so the engine can breathe with all the extra air from FI.

*TURBO:*
_Kinect motorsports_ makes a turbo kit for the 2.0 8v ABA engine. It comes with everything you need to turbo it, and make decent power. Now, there are 3 stages for the ABA.
*Stage 1:* Comes with everything you need to run 160whp on a stock motor at around 6PSI. Problem is, it doesn't include an intercooler, so you're prone to heatsoak and you're basically running hot air. Bad for the engine..
*Stage 2:* Comes with everything from the stage 1 kit, and adds a front mount air-air intercooler. Now, this is worth the additonal 800 something dollars it costs. You can run much more boost (safely) and you'll be much much less to heatsoak. You'll be at around 200whp at 10PSI. Now, to make these numbers, they used 94 octane and a 2.5" exhaust.
MK4: Of course, they make kits for these, too. You'll have to find them yourself, though, as this thread is for MK3's, mainly.

*Ebay turbo kits:* A big no-no. Sure, they're cheaper. But the build quality is questionable, and running any boost safely will be next to impossible. I would never buy a generic turbo kit from ebay, but hey, it's your money (and engine).

*Supercharger:* There are many options for the mk3 8v. Many companies specialize in making a good kit for these cars, including Neuspeed and BahnBrennerMotorsports. 

*Neuspeed:* Neuspeed made superchargers for these cars, but I'm not sure if they STILL make them. They pop up in the classifieds sometimes, for around 1500. New, they're around 2500. The neuspeed S/C kit is good for a 50% increase in hp and tq! Problem is, you have little to no way to add an intercooler to this to make bigger numbers without heatsoak. Neuspeed sells smaller pulleys to add a few more PSI (7.5 peak), but you'll only be able to make around 200whp with supporting modifications (camshaft, exhaust, etc..)

*BahnBrennerMotorsports:* BBM makes a good lysolm kit for the mk3. It comes in stage 1, and has 2 upgrade kits. Stage 2, and Stage 3. You can't skip 2 if you want 3. You need to buy them in order. They are reliable (in my experience) and make good power. 

*Stage 1:* Comes with everything you need for 180BHP (says bbm). They do not have an intercooler, though, so you'll run into heatsoak problems if you drive "spirited" alot. 
*Stage 2:* The stage 2 kit adds a few items to make more power than stage 1; but it still doesn't have a intercooler! So, you'll run into heatsoak faster with this kit because it increases the PSI. It's good for around 200BHP (bbm estimate). It comes with a headgasket kit which drops compression (safer for boost), it includes a 268/260 camshaft, which is made by TT tuning, and is specifically made for FI, it includes a headbolt set (so you don't need to keep replacing the headbolts), a 63mm pulley for higher PSI (11-13), and stage 2 software.
*Stage 3:* *Requires a mk4 intake manifold swap!*This is the ultimate S/C kit for the MK3, IMO. 250bhp on pump gas, with room for improvement if you get a bigger cam, do porting, exhaust work, etc. It includes an air-air intercooler for safe, cold air going into the engine, a 53mm pulley (for 15-18 PSI), stage 3 software, and everything needed to swap the MK4 intake manifold on(except for the upper/lower intake manifold, and the valve cover)! One thing you may want is a oil-catch can instead of a breather filter on the end of the mk4 PCV.


I currently run a stage 3 BBM kit on my 98 Jetta GT. I can't say enough good about it. It's a great, great product. I am pulling on S/C'd VR6s, ABA-T's, and modded 20v's. I put down 270WHP with many more mods than the BBM kit. Bone stock BBM stage III's put down around 220WHP. :thumbup:

*I also ran this kit on my old MK2 Jetta 2dr for about 12 months, and it was a daily driven car. I still got around 25mpg, and with the stage 3 kit, head porting, 2.75" exhaust, TT race DP, I ran a 13.0 second 1/4! on street tires!*

*LINKS:*

Neuspeed intake: http://www.neuspeed.com/141/11/0/1501/651060-neuspeed-p-flo-air-intake-kit.html
Autotech intake: http://www.autotech.com/category/cold-air-intakes.html?fromcat=jetta-mkiii-2l
K&N panel filter: http://www.neuspeed.com/141/11/0/401/332069-kn-panel-air-filter.html
TT exhaust: http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_13_60
Autotech exhaust: http://www.autotech.com/product/stainless-steel-exhaust/10-297-302K.html?fromcat=jetta-mkiii-2l
Autotech's 270 cam kit: http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/...sion_Kit_with_Lifter_Set_270&products_id=2765
TT cams: http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_13_61_484_92
TT chips: http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_13_252
Neuspeed chip: http://www.neuspeed.com/141/11/0/2311/chip2l8vobdii-neuspeed-p-chip.html
C2 chips: http://store.blackforestindustries.com/enpe.html
GIAC chip: http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/..._GIAC.ABA20L_Peformance_Chip&products_id=2213
Raceland header: http://www.racelandus.com/p-33-exhaust-headers-for-vw-golf-mkii-mk2-mkiii-mk3-8v.aspx
OBX header: http://www.obxracingsports.com/products.php?pk=1824
Pacesetter header: http://www.pacesetterexhaust.com/headers_detail.php#vw
TT downpipe: http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_13_60_136&products_id=185
Testpipe: http://store.42draftdesigns.com/MK3-VR6-Test-Pipe_p_302.html
Camgear: http://store.blackforestindustries.com/eu8vadjtige.html
TT HD valvesprings: http://techtonicstuning.com/main/in...ct_info&cPath=2_13_61_484_124&products_id=123
Autotech HD valvesprings: http://www.autotech.com/product/valvetrain/10-109-600K.html?fromcat=jetta-mkiii-2l


*FI Links:*

Neuspeed S/C: http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/...r_Kit_OBDII_Without_Air_Pump&products_id=1987
Neuspeed power pulley: http://www.neuspeed.com/141/11/0/792/584506028-neuspeed-20l-8v-supercharger-hp-pulley.html
BBM stage 1: http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/602/BBM_Supercharger_Kit_Lysholm_MKIII_2_0L
BBM stage 2 upgrade kit: http://www.bahnbrenner.com/media/php/catalog.php?pid=1181
BBM stage 3 upgrade kit: http://www.bahnbrenner.com/media/php/catalog.php?pid=1183

*DIYS:*
Cam install: http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/Campingart/jettatech/camshaftjob/camshaft.htm
Airbox: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...e-modification-write-up.&highlight=airbox+diy
Mk4 intake manifold: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...anifold-on-MKIII-2.0L-ABA-OBDII&highlight=DIY
Heatsheild DIY: (courtesy of Sallad) http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4780769-DIY-Engine-Bay-Heat-Shield
Heatshield Template: (courtesy of 911_fan) http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5110232-TECH-Downloadable-ABA-2.0-heat-shield-template.
Info on Camshafts in the 2.0 engine (courtesy of 911_fan) http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4966762-TECH-Camshaft-and-Valvespring-info


*If you have any questions after reading this thread, you can post here or PM me.*


*This Article is Intellectual property of Colm Cullen.*


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## VolksEffect (Oct 21, 2004)

English people do not say Blut-ee. They say Bloody. It is words with the letter T, not the letter D. Other than that, GREAT!


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

VolksEffect said:


> English people do not say Blut-ee. They say Bloody. It is words with the letter T, not the letter D. Other than that, GREAT!


blut ee ehll!!


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## DcBoys (Aug 22, 2011)

Great Right Up Thanks for all the links too... doesnt get much easier then this


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

There needs to be an extensive headwork section, how much decking for how much compression change, what a compression change does, power ranges for different cams available.

Lets add to this? :thumbup:


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

You will never see 140hp on an 8v with only $1500. With all the mods you listed, you'd be lucky to break 120hp. Travis (tdogg74) barely broke 140hp with all your standard bolt-ons, serious head work, and custom SRI. The TT race header blows too and will rot out in a couple of years. Pointless without headwork too. Good info otherwise.


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

There are ways to spend less money. It can very well be done. For sure though, headwork!


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Yeah, if you already have the materials to build an SRI, run your own machine shop to do the headwork, or magically find a worked head and a bunch of other good parts in a junkyard. Decent headwork alone will cost you close to $1k. I've done it all and ran Travis' SRI. Never dynoed, but I sure wasn't making 140hp and had at least $3k into it. I don't think he even broke 140hp until he changed to a 288* cam. Before that, he was still in the 130hp range.


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## kotik2.0 (Oct 10, 2006)

This should be added to the list too.
From tdogg74 TECH Downloadable ABA 2.0 heat shield template.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

wrong forum for this.

should be in the 2.0 _engine_ forum.


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## Uncle Guss (May 19, 2011)

Seems like your better off just selling the 2.0 and buying a VR6 after all that $$/Time/Work  
To top it all off, you still cant even hit 140hp w/o boost? :banghead:

Ill always love my 2.slow regardless :thumbup:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

My motor was 142*w*hp, btw....which is about 165-170 @ the crank.


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## 2.slowduo (Sep 17, 2008)

zero. said:


> Yeah, if you already have the materials to build an SRI, run your own machine shop to do the headwork, or magically find a worked head and a bunch of other good parts in a junkyard. Decent headwork alone will cost you close to $1k. I've done it all and ran Travis' SRI. Never dynoed, but I sure wasn't making 140hp and had at least $3k into it. I don't think he even broke 140hp until he changed to a 288* cam. Before that, he was still in the 130hp range.


I got an obd1 jetta for 200$

found,through the ways of forums,

tt stainless borla exhaust with testpipe;150$ yes used,but stainless 
ecu with tt chip 25$
did the k&n cut box mod 40$ish
built head, decked,p&p,hd springs,3 angle valvejob,268 tt cam with adjustable gear,portmatched and polished lower manifold for 325$
also got seats and smoked tails for another 100$
with k&n chip and exhaust it put down 86whp and 115tq of fury
after head went on 120whp and 127 tq
so for less than a grand total including car I have a very fun,reliable jetta that can best a stock 1.8t or vr jetta mk4
no it is not the fastest thing,but its fun, reliable,and proof that it can be done on the cheap
just be patient scour the forums,and be willing to drive an hour or two for cheap parts

with a 288 cam and a chip that is burned for it along with a better flowing intake mani,and exhaust mani I dont think that 140whp is too far fetched

if you have the 1500+ to spend you should definatly go turbo,or 16v hybrid turbo

good write up with good info for the people who need it:thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Err, this thread isn't for argueing, guys. 
@Rootbeer: Extensive headwork is sort of beyond the "DIY" range of most people.
@ everyone else: 140BHP, not WHP.


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Headwork seems scarier than it really is. Pull the thing. Get in there and make some simple improvements in the head with a grinder. Have a machine shop do your decking, and valve install, keep stock size valves. Possibly just high flow exhaust valves of stock size.

There's actually some info out there now showing that these expensive big valves for these motors are not beneficial due to shrouding within the aba's little baby bore. 

This combo can make some power with stock obd1 springs even. I'm not really sure where the rpm/cam lift cutoff goes with stock obd1 springs.

I'm a broke ass. This is what i do on all my motors. I can't afford to do any more. I hear you.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

The only things you could (read: should) do on your own with a grinder is to port match the intake side to the gasket, and use a sanding wheel to clean up any casting marks inside all the ports. You are playing with fire if you start messing with the port shape. Unless you have the ability to port flow yourself, which you can build your own flow bench, leave that to the professional. The most gain you will ever get out of port work, though, is cutting the valves to the seat, and blending the seat to the port wall. That should be handled by a professional as well.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

root beer said:


> I'm not really sure where the rpm/cam lift cutoff goes with stock obd1 springs.


Lift max is .450" and max rpms is 7000. At least, I wouldn't exceed those.


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Playing with fire? More like playing with 100 dollar motors 

There's some seriously dumb angles in these heads around the seat and bowl area.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

tdogg74 said:


> Lift max is .450" and max rpms is 7000. At least, I wouldn't exceed those.


OBD1 heads = lucky!


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Just speaking out of experience Tim. I can count on two hands how many PMs I got over the years of people asking my why they lost power when they "hogged out" their heads. :laugh: Pshyaaa...we don't need no stinking port velocity.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

One other thing you can do IF you don't have to deal with emissions testing where they plug into the ODB2 port. Instead of a chip, megasquirt the car. ABAs are very very easy to squirt and you can get both more power AND better economy. It will cost a bit more but I can tell you from experience that 40+mpg at 75-80 mph is a very nice thing especially when combined with say 125whp and 125wtq.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Prof315 said:


> One other thing you can do IF you don't have to deal with emissions testing where they plug into the ODB2 port. Instead of a chip, megasquirt the car. ABAs are very very easy to squirt and you can get both more power AND better economy. It will cost a bit more but I can tell you from experience that 40+mpg at 75-80 mph is a very nice thing especially when combined with say 125whp and 125wtq.


Do you think half of the people that post "OMG MY 2.0 NEEDS FASTER!!!!11" threads will be able to get their hands on MS, or even know what it is? Lol.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Do you think half of the people that post "OMG MY 2.0 NEEDS FASTER!!!!11" threads will be able to get their hands on MS, or even know what it is? Lol.


Anybody who can read and has basic mechanical/wiring skills can build and install an Megasquirt. And in general when you are done you have learned a whole bunch about how your engine actually works.
As far as getting an MS, just visit DIYAutotune.com or contact Paul (need_a_VR6) at KPTuned or myself.


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## PKstrategy (Oct 21, 2004)

where's the link to Sallad's DIY on the heat shield?


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

PKstrategy said:


> where's the link to Sallad's DIY on the heat shield?


Oops. I'll fix that.


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

Prof315 said:


> Anybody who can read and has basic mechanical/wiring skills can build and install an Megasquirt. And in general when you are done you have learned a whole bunch about how your engine actually works.
> As far as getting an MS, just visit DIYAutotune.com or contact Paul (need_a_VR6) at KPTuned or myself.


You give some people faaaaaaaaaar too much credit .


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

B4S said:


> You give some people faaaaaaaaaar too much credit .


That's exactly what I thought.


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## rommeldawg (May 25, 2009)

i just put on a head that i ported and polished after having new seats machined in to allow for 42mm intake valves and 35mm exhaust valves. this is an avh engine in a mk4 jetta. autotech 270 cam, afe intake, scientific rabbit manifold. ( i have a usrt intake but havent put it on)and a magnaflow catback. i am looking at aeg manifold and tt downpipe with a high flow cat maybe. 
car runs really well and pulls strong all the way into the red. havent had it on a dyno but i can say from messing around that p&p and larger valves are worth it.
i have new forged internals, a turbo, ecu with c2 software, intercooler etc to work with too but am interested in seeing how much NA fun i can get out of it first.
i guess a 278 and better exhaust mani and cat plus a tune are next. maybe higher compression pistons?


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

rommeldawg said:


> i just put on a head that i ported and polished after having new seats machined in to allow for 42mm intake valves and 35mm exhaust valves. this is an avh engine in a mk4 jetta. autotech 270 cam, afe intake, scientific rabbit manifold. ( i have a usrt intake but havent put it on)and a magnaflow catback. i am looking at aeg manifold and tt downpipe with a high flow cat maybe.
> car runs really well and pulls strong all the way into the red. havent had it on a dyno but i can say from messing around that p&p and larger valves are worth it.
> i have new forged internals, a turbo, ecu with c2 software, intercooler etc to work with too but am interested in seeing how much NA fun i can get out of it first.
> i guess a 278 and better exhaust mani and cat plus a tune are next. maybe higher compression pistons?


Assuming your working with a mk3, look to the TT 276 cam if you sell the 270, and i believe raceland actually makes a decent looking/performing header for an ABA. I would pick that up rather then the AEG exhaust manifold:thumbup:

Sounds like you have great progress and some nice plans for the car. Be sure to post a build thread or results for the rest of us to enjoy


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## rommeldawg (May 25, 2009)

sorry my bad it was the 276 cam i was thinking about and this is a mk4 avh motor, the car is an 03. i think obx makes a header but i think they are not so great maybe? anyway when i get to the turbo i will take pics and create a build thread. :beer:


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

The info about the headers is incorrect. TT also has a 4-1 race header. It's not stainless though and collector will rot out in 2-3 years of daily use. I didn't notice much of a power difference when I ran it, and it did make my car a lot louder. You can also still run an aftermarket/high flow or modified OEM cat with this header and their racing downpipes if you wanted.
http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_13_60_297


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## PKstrategy (Oct 21, 2004)

Is there any information on using the Neuspeed adjustable Cam gears?

I see them pop up often in the classifieds and I believe the general idea is to use them with upgraded cams. 

Any more info on this?


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Adjustable cam gears are all relatively the same. They just allow you to advance or retard the cam timing. TT and Autotech sell them too. Advancing will increase low-end power and retarding will increase top-end. Basically just allows you to shift the powerband for your cam.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

I ran one for over 10 years. What do you want to know?


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

zero. said:


> The info about the headers is incorrect. TT also has a 4-1 race header. It's not stainless though and collector will rot out in 2-3 years of daily use. I didn't notice much of a power difference when I ran it, and it did make my car a lot louder. You can also still run an aftermarket/high flow or modified OEM cat with this header and their racing downpipes if you wanted.
> http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_13_60_297


None of those are for a mk4? They do look awesome though

And yeah as far as a header for a mk4 the only one's i can find are the obx which for the price may not be too bad, and supersprint makes one but every site that has them wants $900+ which is not worth it for a few hp. I may try out the OBX and see how it is


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

911_fan said:


> I ran one for over 10 years. What do you want to know?


Im actually interested in learning more because that is the only thing i have not done for my built head yet. Only reason i didnt buy one is because it was still my DD but now i have a second vehicle. Is there any significant problems that arise when running the cam gear set back a few degrees for extended periods of time to get increased top end?


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## PKstrategy (Oct 21, 2004)

cool and Travis, what are the "recommended" cams to use with an adjustable cam gear?
does it make any sense to use on a stock cam?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Pertaining to the Neuspeed gear....or any aluminum based gear....the main issue is that its aluminum. It may be great for weight, but isnt so great when it comes to durability over steel (oem material). Over time, the timing belt eats away at the gear teeth, making them very sharp. This, in turn, wears the timing belt material faster, making it more susceptible to failure. But being in the location it is, you can keep a close eye on it's wear. I fine toothed file can be used to smooth out any sharp edges. Also, with the Neuspeed gear specifically, the locking screw threads will strip with prolonged 'use'; So care is needed not to over-tighten the locking screws when tightening it. 

To be honest, the whole premise of a 'light weight' cam gear is silly if you think a bout what it is attaching to...the camshaft. Have you ever tried to turn over a fully loaded cam assembly by hand before? You cant. Valve spring tension is too great. So what is the sense of a lighter cam gear? Nothing really. Techtonics has/had a product they sold with that was the stock outer gear/teeth, with the gear spokes and hub replaced with their own aluminum design. A few grams lighter than OEM, but with the strength and durability of the OEM gear cogs for belt tooth longevity. 

And as for the functionality of the gear; Anything under 4* in either direction won't even register on the butt-dyno. For the most part, what you are doing is changing the valve open/closing event times. By advancing the gear, you are changing the events by 4* earlier. The effect this has is that low end torque is raised, and tapers down until peak hp, where it then continues to die off faster than the cam at 0*. The opposite occurs when you retard the timing. You lose a little bottom end, in which that gap decreases until peak hp, where after peak hp, your tq doesnt die off as fast as stock timing, and there is where you gain more hp on the top end. Depending your your mods depends on how much changes. On my old motor, I experianced about 5-7wtq difference adjusting it 4*. Not much of a change, now is it? This isnt a magical 'more horsepower' mod. Its more of a fine tuner tool to use in conjunction with whatever you have done to your motor and a dyno. There is no way to know what you did without looking real-time on a dyno and adjusting then.

For the most part, I always set my gear to 4* advanced. With my peak hp at 6900rpms, I was able to get a little more grunt below 4500rpms for around town driving (about 90% of my driving) and still maintained my 135whp peak hp. Sure, power died off faster after peak, but who cares? I rarely revved past 7200 with the 276* cam anyways (no need to). So unless you plan on driving like a d*ck around town every day and rev your motor out at ever sign, light, and intersection, run +4* cam timing. 

Oh, and an adj cam gear on a stock cam is beyond pointless. 

Any other questions?


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Pertaining to the Neuspeed gear....or any aluminum based gear....the main issue is that its aluminum. It may be great for weight, but isnt so great when it comes to durability over steel (oem material). Over time, the timing belt eats away at the gear teeth, making them very sharp. This, in turn, wears the timing belt material faster, making it more susceptible to failure. But being in the location it is, you can keep a close eye on it's wear. I fine toothed file can be used to smooth out any sharp edges. Also, with the Neuspeed gear specifically, the locking screw threads will strip with prolonged 'use'; So care is needed not to over-tighten the locking screws when tightening it.
> 
> To be honest, the whole premise of a 'light weight' cam gear is silly if you think a bout what it is attaching to...the camshaft. Have you ever tried to turn over a fully loaded cam assembly by hand before? You cant. Valve spring tension is too great. So what is the sense of a lighter cam gear? Nothing really. Techtonics has/had a product they sold with that was the stock outer gear/teeth, with the gear spokes and hub replaced with their own aluminum design. A few grams lighter than OEM, but with the strength and durability of the OEM gear cogs for belt tooth longevity.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the advice, fuel cut on my car is 7200-7300 rpm anyway so no need to retard the timing then. I have a 276 TT cam in my fully p&p'ed head with other supporting mods so this sounds to be my next best step. Thanks for the advice now I know what I will be buying seeing as today is Cyber Monday:laugh::thumbup:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Make sure you purchase the correct product. I believe your 2002 motor has the cam position sensor integrated in the gear itself. Might want to double check that......


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> The info about the headers is incorrect. TT also has a 4-1 race header. It's not stainless though and collector will rot out in 2-3 years of daily use. I didn't notice much of a power difference when I ran it, and it did make my car a lot louder. You can also still run an aftermarket/high flow or modified OEM cat with this header and their racing downpipes if you wanted.
> http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_13_60_297


TT's header costs 500 bucks, so I didn't add it.


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

I got mine nib in the classifieds brand new for $300, along with a full exhaust for $100.....I personally think they're some of the best headers available for these cars. It's definitely not ebay junk, and it doesn't have the bull**** tri-y merges that most have. Also, you can add a nice collector if you want.....that's where the power is made. I've heard some guys have made some really good power gains by going to a long collector(you can either go the summit racing route, or burns, vibrant) on these motors on a regular old pacesetter even. The fact that you can order a header with 1.75" primaries is just awesome.

My vr thread has schrick 268's in it....800 dollar cams. That doesn't mean you can't find them used for 3-400.

Tell people the best parts, they can figure out pricing.


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

root beer said:


> I got mine nib in the classifieds brand new for $300, along with a full exhaust for $100.....I personally think they're some of the best headers available for these cars. It's definitely not ebay junk, and it doesn't have the bull**** tri-y merges that most have. Also, you can add a nice collector if you want.....that's where the power is made. I've heard some guys have made some really good power gains by going to a long collector(you can either go the summit racing route, or burns, vibrant) on these motors on a regular old pacesetter even. The fact that you can order a header with 1.75" primaries is just awesome.
> 
> My vr thread has schrick 268's in it....800 dollar cams. That doesn't mean you can't find them used for 3-400.
> 
> Tell people the best parts, they can figure out pricing.


Well put, ive been kicking around the idea all week of dropping the money for the mk4 2.0 supersprint header, I have $ but 1000 is alot for one... i think i may go for it though:laugh:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

02vwgolf said:


> Well put, ive been kicking around the idea all week of dropping the money for the mk4 2.0 supersprint header, I have $ but 1000 is alot for one... i think i may go for it though:laugh:


For 1,000 dollars you may be able to find a used turbo kit or supercharger. 10 bills for only say 7bhp isn't worth it IMHO. That money would be better spent on a mk4 AEG exhaust manifold and a TT race downpipe, and that's only 400. With the other 600, you could have a nice night with an "escort".


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> For 1,000 dollars you may be able to find a used turbo kit or supercharger. 10 bills for only say 7bhp isn't worth it IMHO. That money would be better spent on a mk4 AEG exhaust manifold and a TT race downpipe, and that's only 400. With the other 600, you could have a nice night with an "escort".


Already had a turbo'd mk4 2.0, this one im working on now im trying to do all motor which gets me laughed at by most people And I already have a ported exhaust manifold and custom dp/racepipe...but want to give a legit header a go. Trying to get 140 whp:thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

02vwgolf said:


> Already had a turbo'd mk4 2.0, this one im working on now im trying to do all motor which gets me laughed at by most people And I already have a ported exhaust manifold and custom dp/racepipe...but want to give a legit header a go. Trying to get 140 whp:thumbup:


I spent over 10,000 dollars on my old MK2 coupe ABA track car and the most I dyno'd was 160whp. If you want 140whp, you'll atleast need:
288 cam
Lots of headwork 
+.5 compression HG
A SRI
Header/race DP
2.5" straight exhaust
Custom Software..
etc.. Not an easy task.


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> I spent over 10,000 dollars on my old MK2 coupe ABA track car and the most I dyno'd was 160whp. If you want 140whp, you'll atleast need:
> 288 cam
> Lots of headwork
> +.5 compression HG
> ...


Im somewhat on my way to those numbers... so far I have

276 TT cam with upgrraded lifters, followers, etc
Major port and polish
Custom SRI (to be installed within the next few weeks)
ECS lightweight Pulleys
Neuspeed adjustable cam gear (just ordered)
EGR/secondary air delete
Ported AEG exhaust manifold to custom 2.5" racepipe (soon to be replaced by supersprint header)
2.5" non catted, non resonated magnaflow exhaust
VF engineering motor mounts (all three)
United Motorsports Tune with Cam profile

Trying to think if I forgot anything else, If I cant get the numbers I want out of this cam I want to go to the 288 but I've never heard/seen anyone run one in a mk4 2.0. Any tips advice:laugh:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

I hope you did a 'stock' dyno. Setting a goal is great and all, but unless you have a base-line to compare too, its just an arbitrary number. Every dyno is different, and every dyno operator is just ass suspect. Just because you roll 140whp, doesnt mean squat unless you know what YOUR baseline was. What if, for instance, your baseline on the dyno you used was 100whp. You rolled 140whp...thats only a 40whp net. What if you rolled 88whp stock. Now its a 52whp net. What's more important? Saying you rolled 140whp or saying you gained 52whp over stock? 

Not trying to be a Debbie Downer here, just trying to keep expectations in check. I am curious to see how all this motor work pans out on a MKIV and see it run CEL-free with the 276*. I'm not sure how well you would like a 288* in a MKIV. Between the weight of the car and the tall gear ratios of any MKIV-trans options, I don't think any top end gained would be worth the low-rpm loss. Unless you are just going for bragging rights and don't plan on driving the car as a daily driver. 

Regardless, do as much as you can and keep it CEL-free. As long as that light is lit, you still have work to do....


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

911_fan said:


> I hope you did a 'stock' dyno. Setting a goal is great and all, but unless you have a base-line to compare too, its just an arbitrary number. Every dyno is different, and every dyno operator is just ass suspect. Just because you roll 140whp, doesnt mean squat unless you know what YOUR baseline was. What if, for instance, your baseline on the dyno you used was 100whp. You rolled 140whp...thats only a 40whp net. What if you rolled 88whp stock. Now its a 52whp net. What's more important? Saying you rolled 140whp or saying you gained 52whp over stock?
> 
> Not trying to be a Debbie Downer here, just trying to keep expectations in check. I am curious to see how all this motor work pans out on a MKIV and see it run CEL-free with the 276*. I'm not sure how well you would like a 288* in a MKIV. Between the weight of the car and the tall gear ratios of any MKIV-trans options, I don't think any top end gained would be worth the low-rpm loss. Unless you are just going for bragging rights and don't plan on driving the car as a daily driver.
> 
> Regardless, do as much as you can and keep it CEL-free. As long as that light is lit, you still have work to do....



Dont worry already did everything you said, baseline was 86 whp on a local mustang dyno...I was pretty embarrassed after seeing that:facepalm: but I knew I needed a number to work off of. And as far as the CEL, to my amazement( and the reason I will always be using Jeff at United Motorsports from now on) the CEL has not even come on once since the cam has been installed which was 2 months ago. Only real problem Im trying to overcome, as long as the dyno operator was running the dyno right, I seem to stop making power after 6600-6700 rpm.... which surprised me because with the P&P and big cam I was expecting it to keep making power up to the 7200 rpm fuel cut. 

What do you guys think? Im in need of advice and I know some of you guys have alot of experience building aba's and such


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

And I forgot to say It was daily driven for a month and a half after the cam was installed, but now I finally got an suv so she gets to stay in the garage while im up in school:thumbup: And as far as why im doing it, its the same reason why I did my 2.0t...just because all my friends make fun of me for "wasting" money on my 2.0 and dont think I can do it Its really just personal aspirations that drive my desire to do it, im the only person who drives it and I love every single one of those 8 valves:laugh:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

What was done to your head as far as 'work'? Was it flow benched after? What cam profile was it ported for? Were the velocity ramps ground out of your MKIV intake ports? What you had done to your head is going to play a MAJOR role in your torque curve. Then there is how the SRI was designed and what rpm the harmonic wave was designed to hit at. Then there is header design that effects your low and high end torque peaks. Lots of head variables here...all parts of the puzzle. 

Stock 8v heads stop making torque after 4500rpms. Better flow just keeps it from dying _as_ fast. Getting all the bolt-ons and headwork to work _with_ each other is the key here. 

This is my before/after dyno from 2008. Even with a 288*, my peak was between 6000-6500rpms. Still pulled past 7000rpms, but never shifted past 7200. Its at this point where you need to run a REALLY large cam to move the peak powerband up into the 7000+ range. And that's not daily-drivable. Or inexpensive!


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

911_fan said:


> What was done to your head as far as 'work'? Was it flow benched after? What cam profile was it ported for? Were the velocity ramps ground out of your MKIV intake ports? What you had done to your head is going to play a MAJOR role in your torque curve. Then there is how the SRI was designed and what rpm the harmonic wave was designed to hit at. Then there is header design that effects your low and high end torque peaks. Lots of head variables here...all parts of the puzzle.
> 
> Stock 8v heads stop making torque after 4500rpms. Better flow just keeps it from dying _as_ fast. Getting all the bolt-ons and headwork to work _with_ each other is the key here.
> 
> This is my before/after dyno from 2008. Even with a 288*, my peak was between 6000-6500rpms. Still pulled past 7000rpms, but never shifted past 7200. Its at this point where you need to run a REALLY large cam to move the peak powerband up into the 7000+ range. And that's not daily-drivable. Or inexpensive!


I'll try and answer in order from what I remember, I was digging through my desk and cant find the paper with the info...

-As for the flowbench, at the time the head was ported the flow bench was not working( got me a discount but doesnt help know how well it flows)
-I had given the cam to the machine shop when I dropped the head off so it was ported to run the 276, machine shop recommended bringing it back if I decided to go with a larger cam later down the road
-And to the best of my knowledge the velocity ramps were ground down, and a decent amount at that because when the shop was doing it they told my there were actually small air pockets inside some of the casting( which seems pretty terrible but its a mexican made head) which meant they had to grind more to get back to a metal surface

The shop I took it to, I have became somewhat friends with and based off what your saying it sounds like a may need to remove the head and take it back to get flow benched to have a real idea how well it is flowing.

And you seem to know a ton, have you had any experience porting obd2 throttle bodies because I have heard this can make a difference, but if too much is taken (which seems to be a fine line) it will kill the performance and tb's are pricey


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

02vwgolf said:


> ...have you had any experience porting obd2 throttle bodies because I have heard this can make a difference,


Yes and yes. I know a little...


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Yes and yes. I know a little...


If okay, Can I maybe pay you to acquire your services


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

What year did the MKIV switch to DBW?


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

911_fan said:


> What year did the MKIV switch to DBW?


01.5 i believe


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Wont touch DBW throttles. They don't take to being ported. Like, at all.


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Wont touch DBW throttles. They don't take to being ported. Like, at all.


Damn thats unfortunate Once I get this new SRI installed I will be going back to get re-dyno'd just to see where it stands and how much progress/creative thinking is going to be needed to get everything I can out of this. 

I saw a thread over on the naturally aspirated forum a while back about the lack of provable gains from going with the TT over-sized valves in n/a ABA's... how do you feel about that because im thinking of if I have to that would be the last otpion


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Too much to get into regarding that. Diameter increases doesnt take well to shrouding created by the bigger valves. Unshrounding drops compression and you only have some much real estate between the valve face and bore. Intake ports are only so big where you lose low end velocity. If anything, go with a bigger exhaust valve. Proper bowl work and blending, plus a righteous 3-angle grind is most beneficial. Also, back-cut valves increase flow rates. But Im not really one to comment on this as I don't have any experience with porting heads, or flow benching.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

As for throttle options, go into the 1.8t forum and poke around for _larger_ throttle options. There are a few threads that get into options that the guys utilize for BT options. But remember, make sure everything else is taken care of and that your throttle is the bottleneck. IOW, worry about that last.


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

911_fan said:


> As for throttle options, go into the 1.8t forum and poke around for _larger_ throttle options. There are a few threads that get into options that the guys utilize for BT options. But remember, make sure everything else is taken care of and that your throttle is the bottleneck. IOW, worry about that last.


Will do, and i'll report back to everyone when I get some numbers as of where it stands currently:thumbup:


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## Minor_Threat (May 12, 2009)

Hurt said:


> I spent over 10,000 dollars on my old MK2 coupe ABA track car and the most I dyno'd was 160whp. If you want 140whp, you'll atleast need:
> 288 cam
> Lots of headwork
> +.5 compression HG
> ...


sounds like what my setup was

ported polished OBDII german head, decked .002in surface
TT 35mm intake valves TT 42mm Intake valves 
dual valve springs, Titiainum retainers, AEG lifters
TT 276 cam 
BFI PEM stage 2 
LW flywheel
LW crank pulley
LW intermediate shaft gear
LW alternator pulley 
deleted ac 
deleted ps 
OBX header 
42dd test pipe 
TT 2.25 catback with borla muffler 

made some good power and now its all for sale, gonna tripple what I made with the ABA now


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I didn't realize it was a MK4 you guys were talking about. The ABA I built for my coupe was from a mk3 (obviously), lol.


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> I didn't realize it was a MK4 you guys were talking about. The ABA I built for my coupe was from a mk3 (obviously), lol.


I think everyone else in here besides for me is talking about mk3's and older, I wish I had my 2.0 aeg in a mk3 gti:laugh:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Updated some info. This thread is a MK3 ABA thread; that's why it's lacking info on the MK4 engines.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

buuuuuuuuump


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## ny_fam (Apr 3, 2004)

What capabilities do you have to read the air/fuel ratio? And how can you set it to what you want? This is what I'm finding as one of the keys to making good power and power where you want it.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

ny_fam said:


> What capabilities do you have to read the air/fuel ratio? And how can you set it to what you want? This is what I'm finding as one of the keys to making good power and power where you want it.


There are several videos about installing a A/F ratio gauge in your car on YouTube, I'm pretty sure it's basically just an o2 sensor.


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## ny_fam (Apr 3, 2004)

Are these gauges the common way to tune? or are they just toys. Most of the posts I see the mention of a chip upgrade. It would seem these are blind upgrades unless you have a measured record of what the fuel is actually doing. I understand that you can use a PC to connect to the OBDI &II computers to read the air fuel ratio.
I know that with MegaSquirt you need to use a computer to read the air fuel ratio among other values to develop the tune. But the guys with MegaSquirt running are the only ones who talk about using the air fuel ratios in their tuning.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

The box tunes are just the basic set ups tuned on, what I consider, every day mods. Cam, exhaust, intake. Ignition is sweetened up for the bigger cams, as well as the fueling. Technically, you shouldnt need a wideband for it. I consider a wide-band set-up (I used the AEM UEGO) a necessary mod for every built motor. Not just to see what your fueling is doing, but to also aid in diagnosing issues you encounter along the way. It can tell you O2 and MAF issues immediately. Another think i had was a vacuum gauge. Sounds silly, but it also aids in any potential issues you might encounter.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

ny_fam said:


> Are these gauges the common way to tune? or are they just toys. Most of the posts I see the mention of a chip upgrade. It would seem these are blind upgrades unless you have a measured record of what the fuel is actually doing. I understand that you can use a PC to connect to the OBDI &II computers to read the air fuel ratio.
> I know that with MegaSquirt you need to use a computer to read the air fuel ratio among other values to develop the tune. But the guys with MegaSquirt running are the only ones who talk about using the air fuel ratios in their tuning.


I consider a wideband O2 sensor an essential tool to tune with. Doesn't matter if it's carbs, CIS or standalone. With MegaSquirt and a wideband the tuning process has become crazy easy. TunerStudioMS (one of the tuning software programs for MS) has an outstanding autotune feature. Set up your Air/Fuel ratio target table, turn on the autotune function, and go drive or strap it to a dyno. Now this only tunes FUEL, you still have to deal with tuning spark tables but it still makes things much simpler.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> . Another thing i had was a vacuum gauge. Sounds silly, but it also aids in any potential issues you might encounter.


I agree with that. In my Track Coupe, it had the centre console made into a gauge cluster of sorts. In it are:

Oil PSI h20 Temp Wideband
Vacuum Oil Temp Volts
Pyrometer Shiftlight

The vacuum gauge helped on one occasion, and I liked seeing it go zonkers when I floored it. :thumbup:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

I originally installed it for a ram air setup I was testing. Never saw any positive pressure. Not enough funds to go any further, plus ram air only takes effect above 110mph. (slightly unrealistic in every day driving conditions lol)


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> I originally installed it for a ram air setup I was testing. Never saw any positive pressure. Not enough funds to go any further, plus ram air only takes effect above 110mph. (slightly unrealistic in every day driving conditions lol)


110?! I thought it was much lower than that. No positive pressure at all at around 40-45? I've seen so many different ram-air set ups on track cars. I'd imagine they'd be better performing.


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

I saw gains with a headlight intake, and I only trapped 111 2x, and 112 once.

But yea, the dailyability thing...


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Gains as in an increase of available air into the intake, absolutely. I witnessed a considerable difference on the dyno with this set-up. (the pics were actually the morning of my 142whp dyno session.)

But as for building positive pressure into my intake manifold (boost), no dice. I never saw any sustainable positive air pressure on my vacuum gauge. And if there was, it was so minimal that I didn't see it. Positive boost pressure is less than 1% at hiway speeds. Had I more access to welding materials and more budget, I probably could have fabricated something a tad more useful and completely sealed. 

Through all the research I did, the one I was most interested in was a motorcycle magazine test of 5 bikes which used ram air to boost their top end performance. Test were done on a dyno with the aid of some pretty big fans. Although the fans didnt provide the necessary air flow that simulates 100mph+ speeds on the open road, it was enough to test the ram air capabilities of their air boxes and see the gains as a result. It was around 110mph at which outside air ramming into their air boxes overcame the pumping forces /air speed of the pistons. But even then, gains were maybe 1-2%. Its not until speeds of 300mph does ram air actually matter. Rolls Royce discovered this in the 1920's. When they adjust fueling for their engine, they saw power increases of 15%. So realistically, ram-air on street cars: Myth. Ram air on race cars: 1, maybe 2% power increase depending on speed. 

You will get more power gains by air box volume tuning. Ever wonder why our cars have more torque with the stock airbox than a CAI? Just look at the design; Built in ram horn (velocity stack) and the plastic ribs inside the box structure. All this is to increase air flow into the intake tube and control the resonant frequency of the air. Those ribs cancel out any frequencies at specific rpms to deliver a smooth, not peaky, torque curve. When people start 'shaving' the insides of their airboxes, I just laugh. Or when they remove the entire airbox and slap a cone filter right on the end of their MAF. Again, I laugh.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Yeah. I'd imagine you'd have to be going pretty fast and have a welded set up for ram air to create any significant amount of boost. I personally hate the whole "ram air" fad that Pontiac started in the 1990's. Ram-Air hoods on the Grand Prix GTP and Trans am, sure. But not on pick-ups, and cavaliers.. I see a ton of cars around here with "ram air" hoods. It's funny that 99% of the idiots who bought them don't even know that they aren't functional. :laugh:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Did a little revising/editing, bumping this so people can see it and not start other threads.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Going to add a forced induction section tomorrow. :thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Update: Added information on FI. :wave:


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## 2.slowduo (Sep 17, 2008)

Only obd1 ABA have forged crank and oil squirters. 
While good for boost not really a forged bottom end


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

2.slowduo said:


> Only obd1 ABA have forged crank and oil squirters.
> While good for boost not really a forged bottom end


They have forged internals.. I didn't say anything about oil squirters, or obd1. :screwy:


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## 2.slowduo (Sep 17, 2008)

That simply is not true. 
This has been good info. But
Obd1 forged crank, forged rods, cast pistons
Obd2 cast crank no oil squirters
Not being a jerk. Just the way it is


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## rommeldawg (May 25, 2009)

mm well which obd2... some had squirters some didnt... i believe it was the aeg that didnt and the later avh and up did. i know my 02 avh engines.. three of them do have squirters... now as for the internals... crank is cast as are the rods and pistons. but according to intergrated engineering the stock crank is capable of 400hp without issue so spend the money on rods and pistons... also squirters can be added


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

The forged OBD1 ABA cranks are also about 3 lbs lighter that the obd2 cast cranks.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

:wave:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

:thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

rommeldawg said:


> mm well which obd2... some had squirters some didnt... i believe it was the aeg that didnt and the later avh and up did. i know my 02 avh engines.. three of them do have squirters... now as for the internals... crank is cast as are the rods and pistons. but according to intergrated engineering the stock crank is capable of 400hp without issue so spend the money on rods and pistons... also squirters can be added


This is mainly for ABA MK3 and ABA swaps. Not MK4's.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

bump


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

ttt - this thread keeps "OMG 8V FAST PLZ" threads from popping up. :wave:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Bump for the forum's sake. :thumbup:


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## MYGTI_MA (May 3, 2010)

:thumbup: great thread that any noob who wants to mod the mk3 2.0 should/must read.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MYGTI_MA said:


> :thumbup: great thread that any noob who wants to mod the mk3 2.0 should/must read.


Thanks bud. :wave:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Prof315 said:


> The forged OBD1 ABA cranks are also about 3 lbs lighter that the obd2 cast cranks.


3lbs? Hm.. I wonder why VW didn't stick with them.. Maybe the cost of making them was higher.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Hurt said:


> 3lbs? Hm.. I wonder why VW didn't stick with them.. Maybe the cost of making them was higher.


It's MUCH more expensive to forge metal as opposed to casting it.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Prof315 said:


> It's MUCH more expensive to forge metal as opposed to casting it.


The obd1 cars also have a slightly more aggressive cam profile and combined with the forged crank, oil squirters, and a few other subtle differences, they had a 6400 rpm redline instead of obd2 cars that had 6200. OBD1 = lucked out


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Hurt said:


> The obd1 cars also have a slightly more aggressive cam profile and combined with the forged crank, oil squirters, and a few other subtle differences, they had a 6400 rpm redline instead of obd2 cars that had 6200. OBD1 = lucked out


I don't know where you came up with that hypotheses, but its wrong. Why do you think the OBDI cam is more aggressive? Because it has 1*/2* more duration? Bah...it has a wider LSA and a much shorter lifter than the OBDII cam. Both are designed to match the intake port design of either head to give the same hp/tq figures. Yes, you would see a variance on a dyno if you flipped cams on either head, but its _nothing_ you would feel on the butt dyno. The switch to cast crank, single springs, non-squirters wasn't just about cost, it was also about fuel efficiency. Less rotating mass = more fuel efficient. Which was the sole purpose of the OBDII intake port redesign. Quieter, torquier low end, and better directed the intake charge where it belongs...on the center of the piston. The sacrifice of the intake shrouds was top end power...hence the cam profile difference.

Also the rpm rev ceiling is moot...these motors stop making torque @ 4500rpms. I don't know why anyone in their right mind would rev one of these suckers past 5500rpms. :laugh:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> the rpm rev ceiling is moot...these motors stop making torque @ 4500rpms. I don't know why anyone in their right mind would rev one of these suckers past 5500rpms. :laugh:


I was only pointing out why the redline on the OBD1 cars (bubble clusters.) was a little higher.


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## Grenade Gavin (Jun 2, 2008)

Bump to first page. This is an excellent thread with great info. :thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Grenade Gavin said:


> Bump to first page. This is an excellent thread with great info. :thumbup:


Thanks, bud. 

PS: Looking into making a good head-work section.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Bumping this for the forum's sake. To a MOD: Should I bother re-posting this in the MK3 forum? It's tailored toward ABA's, and a ton of "OMG 8V FAST PLZ" threads pop up there a day. I think it'd help, but I'd rather have a mod tell me. Thanks, I really hope everyone who uses this gets useful information. If you have any ?'s, feel free to PM me or post in this thread, I check it daily. :wave:


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## FourEyes (Jun 11, 2010)

Hurt said:


> PS: Looking into making a good head-work section.


Looking forward to this. I really want to learn more about headwork..


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## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

Same here! Love my little aba daily


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

FourEyes said:


> Looking forward to this. I really want to learn more about headwork..


I've been trying to find some good information, but I've always sent my heads to a machinist friend of mine. :banghead: :wave:


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## FourEyes (Jun 11, 2010)

Hurt said:


> I've been trying to find some good information, but I've always sent my heads to a machinist friend of mine. :banghead: :wave:


You should talk to him. :thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

FourEyes said:


> You should talk to him. :thumbup:


I asked him to look up the paperwork for what he did to the heads I've sent him (atleast 5, maybe 7..) He does good work! I'll try to get some info ASAP


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Hurt said:


> Bumping this for the forum's sake. To a MOD: Should I bother re-posting this in the MK3 forum? It's tailored toward ABA's, and a ton of "OMG 8V FAST PLZ" threads pop up there a day. I think it'd help, but I'd rather have a mod tell me. Thanks, I really hope everyone who uses this gets useful information. If you have any ?'s, feel free to PM me or post in this thread, I check it daily. :wave:


Nah, we try to keep cross posting down. The 12v thread is in 12v tech fwiw.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

root beer said:


> Nah, we try to keep cross posting down. The 12v thread is in 12v tech fwiw.


Alright, thanks, bud! :thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

TTT for the forum's sake!


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

bump for the forum


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## ny_fam (Apr 3, 2004)

*8v porting thread*

Here is a thread that has been going for a while on 8v head porting.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4628897-Porting-the-8v-head.....


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

ny_fam said:


> Here is a thread that has been going for a while on 8v head porting.
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4628897-Porting-the-8v-head.....


:thumbup:


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## VW MAFIA (Dec 3, 2011)

Good luck with that, looks like you are goin to b busy, wish i had that kinda time.


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## CasuallyWreckless (Aug 27, 2007)

Not all obd1 cars are solder chips.. My gf's 95' cabby aba as well as my friends 95 passat vr6 are both plug and play:thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

sweetrocco420 said:


> Not all obd1 cars are solder chips.. My gf's 95' cabby aba as well as my friends 95 passat vr6 are both plug and play:thumbup:


Are you sure they're obd1? From what I've seen, some 1995 VW's are OBD2, but most were OBD1. If you look in an aftermarket part catalog for most aftermarket companies, 1995+ Passats were OBD2. It's tricky.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

bump for the forum's sake :wave:


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## CasuallyWreckless (Aug 27, 2007)

Hurt said:


> Are you sure they're obd1? From what I've seen, some 1995 VW's are OBD2, but most were OBD1. If you look in an aftermarket part catalog for most aftermarket companies, 1995+ Passats were OBD2. It's tricky.


 Nope both are def obd1 sir:thumbup: egr valves on both


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

sweetrocco420 said:


> Nope both are def obd1 sir:thumbup: egr valves on both


Huh. VR's are wierd. Anything VR related is out of my comfort zone. 
I'm more of an 8v guy. Lol.


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## CasuallyWreckless (Aug 27, 2007)

Haha:thumbup: 8v's are weird to me sooo I'm Gunna ask you what's the difference between a counterflow and a crossflow? And how do I tell if my girls cabby has hydraulic or solid lifters?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

sweetrocco420 said:


> Haha:thumbup: 8v's are weird to me sooo I'm Gunna ask you what's the difference between a counterflow and a crossflow? And how do I tell if my girls cabby has hydraulic or solid lifters?


Cross-flow = in/ex ports on opposing sides of the head.
Counter-flow = in/ex ports on the same side.

8v heads from 1985 and up were hydro.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Cross-flow = in/ex ports on opposing sides of the head.
> Counter-flow = in/ex ports on the same side.
> 
> 8v heads from 1985 and up were hydro.


Correct


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

..Paid 800 for a brand new Neuspeed system from MJM, then saw it's only 500 on Neuspeed's website.  :facepalm:


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## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

Hurt said:


> ..Paid 800 for a brand new Neuspeed system from MJM, then saw it's only 500 on Neuspeed's website.  :facepalm:


Neuspeed system?


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## FourEyes (Jun 11, 2010)

Hurt said:


> ..Paid 800 for a brand new Neuspeed system from MJM, then saw it's only 500 on Neuspeed's website.  :facepalm:


Return, repurchase.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

GloryFreak said:


> Neuspeed system?


Sorry, I meant exhaust system. 60mm (2.4") mandrel bent piping, 1 resonator, 1 mid muffler, one on the end, DTM tips, stainless steel. They sound great!



FourEyes said:


> Return, repurchase.


Unfortunately, they charge a 20% restocking fee, +shipping. So I'd end up paying around 200 dollars just to return it, and not save any real money at all if I buy a new one from neuspeed because 500+ shipping is about 540.. I'm going to call them and tell them about my blunder, hopefully they'll price match. MJM is a very reasonable company, I've dealt with them in the past. :thumbup:


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## Low Sugar (May 30, 2008)

http://www.autotech.com/product/chips/10-215-352.html?fromcat=jetta-mkiii-2l

Worth the $100??

Im not really looking to go fast Id just like my car to be able to get out of its own way, especially on the highway.


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## nemo1ner (May 5, 2004)

I was looking at that chip as well. My engine is 100% stock which I like, but I want to give it a slight bump.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Wirt said:


> http://www.autotech.com/product/chips/10-215-352.html?fromcat=jetta-mkiii-2l
> 
> Worth the $100??
> 
> Im not really looking to go fast Id just like my car to be able to get out of its own way, especially on the highway.





nemo1ner said:


> I was looking at that chip as well. My engine is 100% stock which I like, but I want to give it a slight bump.


Just get a TT non-cam 91 octane chip (85 bucks shipped on MJM) There is no reason to rev to 6900 on a "stock" aba, like autotech advertises it's chip tune redline to be.. You won't make any power past 5500 on an aba without a nice cam, anyway.


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## Low Sugar (May 30, 2008)

Hurt said:


> Just get a TT non-cam 91 octane chip (85 bucks shipped on MJM) There is no reason to rev to 6900 on a "stock" aba, like autotech advertises it's chip tune redline to be.. You won't make any power past 5500 on an aba without a nice cam, anyway.


Excuse my ignorance to this stuff, but there isn't any gas stations around me that have 91 octane. Would that be an issue with that chip?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

The difference in tunes between a 91oct chip and a 93oct chip are little/none. The ABA can take a LOT of timing before it knocks and starts to pull timing. 
And also, you could have two companies that make a 91oct chip, but have totally different ignition tables. Stick with the TT chip. It's a better tune. *my opinion.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> The difference in tunes between a 91oct chip and a 93oct chip are little/none. The ABA can take a LOT of timing before it knocks and starts to pull timing.
> And also, you could have two companies that make a 91oct chip, but have totally different ignition tables. Stick with the TT chip. It's a better tune. *my opinion.



Yeah, I generally stay away from any chip other than GIAC or TT. A friend of mine had a Neuspeed P-Flo chip in his mk1 rabbit aba swap, and that thing sucked down a ton of gas compared to without the chip, and the same with the Q-chip. They suck down gas! I've never really noticed TT's chips changing my MPG, personally. I've used C2 plenty of times, but I'm done dealing with rev-hang and bucking at 2k RPM. Until they fix the tune's issues, I'll be sticking to TT. :thumbup:


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## ELiT3 (May 18, 2011)

hm i would've never known c2 chip had a problem. I guess im going TT, but do you guys think the TT chip will go good with an Autotech 270 cam. I got the cam on black friday for 40% off thats why i went with autotech and not TT.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

sweetrocco420 said:


> Not all obd1 cars are solder chips.. My gf's 95' cabby aba as well as my friends 95 passat vr6 are both plug and play:thumbup:


This is true. My 95 ABA was OBD1 and did not have a soldered chip. Most 95 OBD1's also have the OBD2 diagnostic port too. Majority of ones that are soldered are pre 95. Also, TT has a 4-1 header like stated previously. Noticed it wasn't updated still. :thumbup:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Hurt said:


> Yeah, I generally stay away from any chip other than GIAC or TT. A friend of mine had a Neuspeed P-Flo chip in his mk1 rabbit aba swap, and that thing sucked down a ton of gas compared to without the chip, and the same with the Q-chip. They suck down gas! I've never really noticed TT's chips changing my MPG, personally. I've used C2 plenty of times, but I'm done dealing with rev-hang and bucking at 2k RPM. Until they fix the tune's issues, I'll be sticking to TT. :thumbup:


Yea, Im so surprised by that thread and all those issues. I mean, i had some of those issues too, but i ALWAYS managed to get the rev hanging to go away. With every cam/SRI manifold I swapped to. Only thing that persisted was occasional stalling if I let it warm up on a cold morning. 

And the power difference from the TT chip and the C2/PEM was night and day better.


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## bluB5s4 (Sep 28, 2011)

I :heart: my aba this thread is very informative :thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

ELiT3 said:


> hm i would've never known c2 chip had a problem. I guess im going TT, but do you guys think the TT chip will go good with an Autotech 270 cam. I got the cam on black friday for 40% off thats why i went with autotech and not TT.


Just ask TT for a chip for a 270* cam. Just because it's an AutoTech cam doesn't mean you can't get a TT chip, or even a c2 chip. (_If your car is a 2000 you should consult with the MK4 forum, this thread is really tailored to MK3's_)



zero. said:


> This is true. My 95 ABA was OBD1 and did not have a soldered chip. Most 95 OBD1's also have the OBD2 diagnostic port too. Majority of ones that are soldered are pre 95. Also, TT has a 4-1 header like stated previously. Noticed it wasn't updated still. :thumbup:


I've noticed that too.. Some OBD1 cars are odd. I've also seen 96's with OBD1 ecu's.. Odd.

I know TT has 2 different headers, but both are so expensive I didn't bother to add them.. I've only had 1 of their headers, and personally I didn't like it. I'll update it, though.



911_fan said:


> Yea, Im so surprised by that thread and all those issues. I mean, i had some of those issues too, but i ALWAYS managed to get the rev hanging to go away. With every cam/SRI manifold I swapped to. Only thing that persisted was occasional stalling if I let it warm up on a cold morning.
> 
> And the power difference from the TT chip and the C2/PEM was night and day better.


I was too. I couldn't get my issues to go away, though. I was sick of running out to start my car in the cold mornings, getting ready, and coming out to a FREEZING car that stalled 5 minutes ago. :banghead: The rev hang was annoying to say the least, I hated burning the clutch on accident. It seemed to really mess with the TB when I had a c2 270* cam chip, it didn't go away after an adaptation, either.. Now I run a 276* cam and a TT chip. I just installed USRT's SRI on my daily, and had to readapt my throttle, but TT's chip seems to deal with just about anything.. I always use 93 octane, but once I was 200 miles from home, on E, and the only gas station in a 20 square mile area had 89 at best. Didn't have a problem at all. I really tend to stick with TT's products because they do such good dyno tests/comparisons.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

bluB5s4 said:


> I :heart: my aba this thread is very informative :thumbup:


Thanks bud :wave: 
Here's something for all the haters who think you can't get 140 BHP out of an ABA for about (or less than) 1500 bucks. For this example I will use a OBD1 2.0 Jetta.
276* cam - 180 
TT exhaust - 225
TT race DP - 300
New lifters - 80 
TT cam chip - 125
MK4 intake and exhaust manifold swap - about 100-150 
That should be good for_ atleast _120whp, or about 140 at the crank. And it only costs about 1000 dollars. Cheaper if you use the forum to your advantage, and you can daily this set up easily.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Hurt said:


> ..Paid 800 for a brand new Neuspeed system from MJM, then saw it's only 500 on Neuspeed's website.  :facepalm:





FourEyes said:


> Return, repurchase.


MJM ended up refunding the difference. :thumbup: to a good company!


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

I have some issues with a couple of things you wrote that I don't feel are accurate. (emboldened). In my experience, 4500rpms on a stock motor is the drop-off point in power. Dyno sheets corroborate this fact. Also, can you change this to .432"? I have no idea where you got .433" from. I realize its only .001" difference, but .433" has never been published anywhere and is a bit misleading and contradictory to any discussions out there. Also, please update my SN to 911_fan...tdogg74 doesnt exist on this site anymore. You should also link my thread on cam info as well. Sorry for being so picky, but if you are going to continuously bump an info thread like this, it needs to be as accurate as possible.



> Camshaft: The cam from the factory is good for low end TQ, but not for high end power. Your engine will run out of steam at about *4500* rpm, and shifting beyond that is pointless. There are MULTIPLE options for a performance cam, but it really depends if your car is OBD1 or OBD2, and if you're willing to swap out the valve springs. If you have an OBD2 motor you are limited by the lift of the cam, unless you swap out the valve springs for HD ones, sold by TT tuning, autotech, MJM autohaus, etc. The highest duration cam I'd recommend without swapping out valvesprings in an OBD2 is 260* (max lift is *.432*). Anything higher, you risk valve float aka internal engine damage. If you have an OBD1, you lucked out, and can run a higher duration/lift cam (.450 max lift)! Now, there are multiple cams, all stating to do different things. I have personally found the TT 276 cam to be the best all around cam for a daily driven car. I followed *911_fan's* advice, and set an Adjustable camgear to +4 advance, and it adds a significant amount of low end TQ without sacrificing HP.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> I have some issues with a couple of things you wrote that I don't feel are accurate. (emboldened). In my experience, 4500rpms on a stock motor is the drop-off point in power. Dyno sheets corroborate this fact. Also, can you change this to .432"? I have no idea where you got .433" from. I realize its only .001" difference, but .433" has never been published anywhere and is a bit misleading and contradictory to any discussions out there. Also, please update my SN to 911_fan...tdogg74 doesnt exist on this site anymore. You should also link my thread on cam info as well. Sorry for being so picky, but if you are going to continuously bump an info thread like this, it needs to be as accurate as possible.


No problem, I fixed a few things, and updated a little bit. :wave:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

:thumbup:


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

Hurt said:


> I've noticed that too.. Some OBD1 cars are odd. I've also seen 96's with OBD1 ecu's.. Odd.


In Canada, our Mk3s didn't switch to OBD2 until mid-1997. OBD1 was from 93-mid 97 up here .


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

B4S said:


> In Canada, our Mk3s didn't switch to OBD2 until mid-1997. OBD1 was from 93-mid 97 up here .


:screwy: That's crazy.


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

Tell me about it, but it works out well. The emissions testing in my area is cake to pass if you're OBD1 and older, and there are a LOT of OBD1 'project' cars around . OBD2 is where it gets difficult to modify anything, since the stock ECU has to remain in place. Chipping is an option, but I can't justify the cost of an aftermarket chip vs. the cost of MS3 (at least in OBD2 anyway, I chip my own OBD1  ).

BTW: If anyone wants more 'freedom' with their OBD1 cars, it's super easy to write your own chips for the ABA. If you have an ebay chip burner ($16) and some chips ($5), you can custom tune the stock ecu like megasquirt. Custom dyno tuning anyone? .


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Canada didn't adopt obd2 until 1996...MY1997.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I'm going to get my Daily 8v dyno'd sometime this week, hopefully, if I can ever go back home to CT! I've been on business in CA all week! I'm hoping for at least 130whp.
98 Jetta 2.0
*my DAILY DRIVER* 
[276* TT cam set to +4 advance ( adds low end tq, no high end loss..)
3 angle valve job OBD1 head with LW lifters and HD valve springs
decked/Milled .040"
90mm HG (+ .5 compression)
TT non-aluminum cam gear (thanks for the advice, travis!)
USRT LRI manifold
MK4 exhaust manifold w/ TT race DP
2.5" Custom Mandrel Bent exhaust w/ 2 Magnaflow mufflers and a 20" resonator. (quiet​


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Well, a plan fell into my lap. I found a nice b3 wagon in south MA, sitting on the side of someone's house. It had been hit really hard in the rear. I asked if it was for sale, the guy said I can have it for 500 bucks. It only had 90k miles on the original 9a 2.0 16v engine! I had it towed home within a few hours. 

My buddy's little brother got his first car last month - a MK3 Golf Wolfsburg which has a MINT interior and barely any rust - which he beat on til the timing belt snapped (The belt was ORIGINAL and the car had ~180k on it). The head is shot, and so is the tranny. I bought it for 300 dollars yesterday. I will be swapping in the passat's 2.0 16v 9a and the CR tranny in the Golf, and possibly daily driving it. I just ordered nearly 5 figures of parts for the Golf. :laugh: If anyone wants to know the parts I ordered, let me know, and I'll PM you the list. :wave:


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## 2.slowduo (Sep 17, 2008)

nice find on all the cheap cars, 9a mk3 should be a blast

would love to hear how your trip to the dyno went on that 8v set up

I would think 130whp would be a pretty tame estimate since I'm at 120whp with a 268 and stock mani's. similar deck job,p&p and 3 angle V job
I'm also curious about the non aluminum cam gear? whats wrong with the alum. one?
:beer:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

2.slowduo said:


> I'm also curious about the non aluminum cam gear? whats wrong with the alum. one?
> :beer:


The TT non-aluminum cam gear is basically just a stock cam gear with the inside removed and replaced with an adjustable center. The problem with the aluminum ones is that the teeth are too soft and they'll actually start to get sharp and ruin your timing belt.


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

good luck on the dyno :thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

2.slowduo said:


> nice find on all the cheap cars, 9a mk3 should be a blast
> 
> would love to hear how your trip to the dyno went on that 8v set up
> 
> ...


 Thanks! I hope so, too. The LRI made a big difference! 



Jh0104 said:


> good luck on the dyno :thumbup:


Thanks, bud!


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

135WHP on the dyno. The fastback put down much bigger numbers, though, at 450WHP.


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

Nice!


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Post the sheet. I want to compare it to my 135 run.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Post the sheet. I want to compare it to my 135 run.


Will do ASAP. I gotta scan it, or have the dyno-operator email it to me. I'm thinking we should be pretty similar, considering we had very similar mods, right? I think the only thing really different I have is the 90mm HG and maybe bigger exhaust? The LRI I bought (after reading your comparison thread, thanks! :thumbup made a huge difference. Sounds like my old ITB b18 Honda! :laugh:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

que?



> decked/Milled 040"
> 90mm HG (+5 compression)


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> que?


Oops. That's supposed to say +0.5. It's vended out of BFI, but I got mine at SummitRacing, I believe. They have good deals on gasket sets.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Gotcha, so about 11:1 five or take


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Gotcha, so about 11:1 five or take


I'm not entirely sure. I never asked my friend for the paperwork for the head, but he does very good jobs. I have had 5 or 6 cylinder heads ported/decked/milled by him. Of course, the exhaust manifold and intake manifold gasket matching was done by me, because I am not THAT inept.  I don't have any issues with this engine, really. When I bought it, I replaced pretty much everything. I think 135whp is a pretty good number, though, considering I beat my buddies EM1 civic Si B16a2 160hp 111tq from the factory and he has i/h/e, and our cars weigh about the same. (racing is done on a track, *don't street race*, people!". He has alot of suspension work, though. He handles a bit better. When I had Koni Yellows and Neuspeed Race springs, it handled amazingly! All in all, I daily this car every single day, and take it to 7,000 RPM occasionally. :thumbup:


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## bigteal (Sep 11, 2002)

Actually drove mine last night. I forgot how much fun it is
Hoping to hit the dyno soon, got to take care of the cel first ( maf issues). 130-135whp and I'll be happy with it.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

bigteal said:


> Actually drove mine last night. I forgot how much fun it is
> Hoping to hit the dyno soon, got to take care of the cel first ( maf issues). 130-135whp and I'll be happy with it.


Sounds good, bud. I've been busy working on my 9a MK3 project. :laugh:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I have been meaning to make a few little updates, but I have been busy working on a good friends' 95 Golf Sport 2.0 8v. He's new to the VW scene, he has been a "Honda-boy" since High school and that he hated VW's just because they are VW's. ..

Unfortunately, it was subjected to a ton of abuse by the PO! 
It had a 3aRacing fart-can on the end of a 2" _crush bent_ exhaust, a dented cone filter stuck on the end of the MAF, a "short shifter" (which was a cut shift selector rod) and PURPLE tints. :screwy:

I spent the day removing all these horrible modifications with him, and we put on a TT 2.5" catback with a flowmaster muffler, a 42DD testpipe, a Eurosport cool-flow intake, my old Autotech 270* cam, and soldered in my old GIAC cam chip. We put on a SS 60/40 cupkit, as well as removing the tint. We put on a CL lip, too, and some GTI smoked tails. (All of these parts were sitting around my shop.. I have a shed full of VW parts :laugh Unfortunately, it's riding on OEM flyers for a little bit. He says it's much better than any Honda he has driven except for his old GS-R. 

You ever get that feeling that you took someone over from the land of ignorance and idiocy and put them in a "real car" and educate them? It's such a great feeling. :thumbup:


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## OC80 (Aug 9, 2010)

hey guys I have a question about my car I have a 1996 golf and it had a intake, exhaust, and a chip. I added a 260 TT cam. Should I bother getting a new chip? like a bfi one? help is appreciated!


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## CasuallyWreckless (Aug 27, 2007)

a matchin chip for you cam is always the best route:thumbup: if you have the money do it:thumbup: mr. hurt.. what else u got layinaround:sly: lol


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## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

Wondered this, I've got a Neuspeed supercharger on the car with a 2.25 Magnaflow cat-back. 
Was planning on getting a high flow cat and headers. But do you think the headers will do much with this setup or just stick with the factory manifold and downpipe?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

For the money you would spend on those, you can get an ecu/MAF tune upgrade from C2 and get more power. The tune used by Neuspeed runs on the lean side. The c2 tune uses a better tune with upgraded maf and injectors to get more power out of your charger. Couple that with a bigger cam, and you are lookin at 10-15 more whp easy.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

OC80 said:


> hey guys I have a question about my car I have a 1996 golf and it had a intake, exhaust, and a chip. I added a 260 TT cam. Should I bother getting a new chip? like a bfi one? help is appreciated!


 I'd get a cam profile chip. From your other threads I gather that your chip is from TT. You can contact them and send the chip back to get reburnt for the cam for a cheap rate which is way better than spending another 100 bucks for a cam chip! 



sweetrocco420 said:


> a:thumbup: mr. hurt.. what else u got layinaround:sly: lol


 Too many VW parts. I own a bit of property where it's secluded and I keep old VW's hanging around (after builds, or engine swaps). My buddies call it "the dub graveyard".  



Alingarhs said:


> Wondered this, I've got a Neuspeed supercharger on the car with a 2.25 Magnaflow cat-back.
> Was planning on getting a high flow cat and headers. But do you think the headers will do much with this setup or just stick with the factory manifold and downpipe?


 High flow cats are useless, really. If you want to gain a few more HP get a 268/260 cam from TT, get their Race DP (it deletes the CAT) and mate that to a MK4 AEG exhaust manifold. You could go to C2 and order 42# injectors, a bigger MAF, and their generic boost tune, too, if you'd like. Then you can crank up the boost. Problem with the neuspeed S/C is that it's so difficult to add a front mount and you're prone to heat soak. You might want to get a bigger exhaust, too, since the 2.25" will choke the engine at high RPM's if you do get the cam upgrade.


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## Audiooutlaw (Jun 28, 2011)

What is the vacuum thing below my head? That when I remove the plug it almost kills the motor. And also on hard acceleration it kinda dies a little then goes


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## Audiooutlaw (Jun 28, 2011)

Because I have my mk4 intake top/bottom and fuel rails. And if I have to have it I can't donmy conversion


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Audiooutlaw said:


> What is the vacuum thing below my head? That when I remove the plug it almost kills the motor. And also on hard acceleration it kinda dies a little then goes





Audiooutlaw said:


> Because I have my mk4 intake top/bottom and fuel rails. And if I have to have it I can't donmy conversion


 Post a picture, I'm really not sure what you mean, unless it's the SAI system? (the pump that has a line going to the side of the airbox)


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Well, guys, I did it again.. I bought a bone stock 2.0 Golf Sport. I couldn't pass it up! It was only 300 bucks. Has a blown engine but good sport plaid seats, interior. Some dings on the exterior, not too much rust. I may end up putting a low-mile 8v in it to replace the blown ABA in it. I may end up slapping on my old BBM lysolm kit.. Dang it. Money pit, money pit, money pit! Did I mention it's Surf Green?  
Here's a few pictures from the seller: 
A few dings here and there.. 


:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Great find!!!!


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## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

Love the seats:thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I already have a motor/trans lined up to go into the GTI.. It's just a plain OBD1 engine and 020 trans. I, well, spent some money on TT's website today.. I gave all my Golf parts to my friend for his.. 








Had to buy new stuff.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

So Im confused.... 

Is this a How-to/DIY, or is this now your personal build thread / blog?


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> So Im confused....
> 
> Is this a How-to/DIY, or is this now your personal build thread / blog?


 80/20


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> 80/20


 HAHAHA was definitely thinking this too, but those are some nice purchases you made:thumbup: 
Most relevant content still seems to be pg.1


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

02vwgolf said:


> HAHAHA was definitely thinking this too, but those are some nice purchases you made:thumbup:
> Most relevant content still seems to be pg.1


 Yeah, if anyone posts anything relevant or any DIYs/How to's, or feedback on a product I haven't mentioned, I update page 1. 

Yeah, I got pretty lucky. Finding a no-rust MK3 up here is near impossible.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

ttt for the forum's sake


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

TTT for the forum 

PS: I will be starting a build thread for my Golf Sport. I have a Kinetic Stage III turbo kit for it, and I purchased new performance parts for the engine. Hoping for 300whp on a relatively "bolt-on" motor. :thumbup:


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## t.moe (Dec 8, 2011)

Any info for ignition? As far as plugs wires coil? Or is OEM sufficient for a 'basic' setup with I/H/E/C/P&P/decked head.

LOL excuse my noob question. I've read through this thread a few times before but don't recall mention of ignition


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

t.moe said:


> Any info for ignition? As far as plugs wires coil? Or is OEM sufficient for a 'basic' setup with I/H/E/C/P&P/decked head.
> 
> LOL excuse my noob question. I've read through this thread a few times before but don't recall mention of ignition


Well, in my opinion the OEM ignition does pretty well. You can get a MSD blaster coil and modify it to work in the MK3, which I have done, I'm pretty sure 911_fan did the same thing.. But in my opinion it's just for more reliable, consistent and stronger spark. The stock plug wires aren't really that bad. You can get a set of Neuspeed 8mm plug wires, or Autotech's 10mm wires(overkill!). Powerwise, I don't really notice a difference on my daily with the MSD neuspeed set up. 

Don't feel bad for being new to the forum! You're learning, and you have the desire to learn and find the information on your own, and that's a great thing. :beer:


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## Seth91 (Jun 28, 2009)

Prof315 said:


> Anybody who can read and has basic mechanical/wiring skills can build and install an Megasquirt. And in general when you are done you have learned a whole bunch about how your engine actually works.
> As far as getting an MS, just visit DIYAutotune.com or contact Paul (need_a_VR6) at KPTuned or myself.


Holy Crap.... that's a whole lot of info


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

just turbo it already:laugh:


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## JakRabit (Aug 8, 2003)

yeah cheap ass:laugh:


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

JakRabit said:


> yeah cheap ass:laugh:


in case you need a laugh... http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5651764-20-20-swap./page2&p=76925653


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> in case you need a laugh... http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5651764-20-20-swap./page2&p=76925653


:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:

USRT = good stuff. I'll have to add a section on short shifters, engine/trans mounts, and etc.. BTW, I LOVE the USRT smartshift kit. Sooooo nice. When I still had my 020, I had the USRT linkage and I loved it. Too bad I switched to my 6 speed 02a.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

ttt for the forum's sake :wave:

PS: I've been trying to update the thread and clean up the intake section, add a few more. Maybe ad a SRI section, too, and a whole transmission section. 

Also - 
has anyone run a Autotech or Neuspeed chip and actually GAINED good power with a cam upgrade? I have heard negative things about the Neuspeed one, and same with the Autotech one. I had a friend with an ABA and the autotech chip just sucked gas down.. Switched to a tt chip and he got better power, response, and far better MPG.

~Colm


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## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

You think you can do a section on fuel? Like differences in fuel injectors and what injector is best for certain builds? ( FI or NA) I would like to know. Thanks.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Alingarhs said:


> You think you can do a section on fuel? Like differences in fuel injectors and what injector is best for certain builds? ( FI or NA) I would like to know. Thanks.


Injector size needed will be based upon power levels targeted, meaning power can/will be limited by injector size(flow) as they can only support so much power. If you search for injectors, you should find some sites with tables that list specs like flow(at a specific press), HP @ % duty cycle, hi/low impedance.

Here's the one I use;http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm#BOSCH


*FIXED*


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## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

I think you put up the wrong link.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

give power goals...


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Alingarhs said:


> You think you can do a section on fuel? Like differences in fuel injectors and what injector is best for certain builds? ( FI or NA) I would like to know. Thanks.


To be honest, I don't believe putting VR6 injectors in a 2.0 does ANYTHING. The ECU tells the car how much fuel to give, so just because the injectors flow more, it doesn't add power unless the ECU knows to put in the certain amount of fuel.. For FI, I usually use 30 or 42# injectors.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

For 99% of the N/A builds, stock 16# injectors is more than adequate. Bigger injectors, adjustable FPRs....a waste.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

911_fan said:


> For 99% of the N/A builds, stock 16# injectors is more than adequate. Bigger injectors, adjustable FPRs....a waste.


According to the chart in the link I posted, 16# injectors will support 120HP @ crank @95% duty cycle. 
And it is true that just changing injectors does nothing for power, they just supply the fuel for the power the motor will make, they can't add anything to the power, unless the original injectors were the limiting factor.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Thats interesting. Although I never measured my duty cycle on my old 160+hp motor, I never went leaner than target AFR up to my 7500 redline. My fueling was always spot on. Maybe I was pretty up there in duty cycle? Not sure.


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Thats interesting. Although I never measured my duty cycle on my old 160+hp motor, I never went leaner than target AFR up to my 7500 redline. My fueling was always spot on. Maybe I was pretty up there in duty cycle? Not sure.


What was the leanest AFR you were seeing near redline? and that surprises me too that they would be at 95% duty cycle at only 120 crank hp


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## FourEyes (Jun 11, 2010)

Alright, I have a question for all of you experts. Should be pretty easy to answer. :beer:

Is there any chances that using 89 or 91 octane gas in a stock ABA will cause damage? A friend of mine was talking about how if an engine is rated for say 87 octane, using 89 or 91 octane could cut down the life expectancy of the valves and head because they're not rated for the heat.

Is this true for the ABA?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

On the BFI PEM, I was NEVER leaner than 13.1-13.3afr with either the 276* or 288* cam profile. To me, that's exactly where I wanted to be, so I never questioned the DC of the injectors. I would have been questioning it if it was up near 14, though. I was running an AEM UEGO for a sensor/gauge.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

FourEyes said:


> Alright, I have a question for all of you experts. Should be pretty easy to answer. :beer:
> 
> Is there any chances that using 89 or 91 octane gas in a stock ABA will cause damage? A friend of mine was talking about how if an engine is rated for say 87 octane, using 89 or 91 octane could cut down the life expectancy of the valves and head because they're not rated for the heat.
> 
> Is this true for the ABA?



Your friend doesnt know what he is talking about. If a car is rated for 87oct, then that is what the ecu tune from the factory is set to run with. Running a higher octane is going to do nothing but make your wallet lighter. You wont get any more ignition advance (i.e. power) that what the stock ECU tune will allow.


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## FourEyes (Jun 11, 2010)

911_fan said:


> Your friend doesnt know what he is talking about. If a car is rated for 87oct, then that is what the ecu tune from the factory is set to run with. Running a higher octane is going to do nothing but make your wallet lighter. You wont get any more ignition advance (i.e. power) that what the stock ECU tune will allow.


Hmm alright. So it wouldn't cause any of the components in the head to get hotter?

And if higher octane does nothing but use more money, how come my car feels more responsive when I fill it with 89 octane than it does when I fill it with 87?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Higher octane is more resistant to detonation. Vehicles with forced induction or vehicles with high performing engines, for instance, require it. Unless you are running an aftermarket chip tune, your car doesnt. 

On a stock ECU tune, if you feel a power increase because you jumped 2 octane points, it is because there is something wrong internally, like massive carbon build-up on the pistons, creating hot-spots and triggering your knock-sensors to back off timing. If you are running an aftermarket ECU tune, well, you shouldnt be running anything but 91+ octane. So yea, if you jumped to 89oct from 87, then you would feel a power increase. 

The stock 2.0 ECU tune will simply not advance above a certain point regardless if you run 87 or 93 octane. I.E., no power gain. In other words, its all in your head, unfortunately, and you are wasting your money.


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## FourEyes (Jun 11, 2010)

Thanks for the information. I'm fairly confident that it's not all in my head... but I suppose that's a possibility.

I actually wouldn't be surprised if there is something wrong internally. There are occasions where it will make ticking noises and almost sound like a diesel.. and then every so often it will stumble a little bit at idle. I just haven't had the chance to crack it open and figure out why all that's happening. :thumbdown:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Because maintenance


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## FourEyes (Jun 11, 2010)

911_fan said:


> Because maintenance


I've done a lot of the basic maintenance since I've had it.. Oil every 5k miles, fixed vacuum leaks, replaced leaky coolant lines, new timing belt, waterpump, thermostat, coil, distributor cap and rotor, wires, plugs, battery, and used your tech thread to get the timing right..

Don't think there's a lot more that I can do from the outside of the engine... any suggestions on what I should check?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

I dont know what to say. If your maintenance is up to date and the car is running well, then I go back to my original claim that the gain is just the placebo effect. Like when people run a cone filter off their MAF and thinks their car is faster because it makes this loud _rrRRRRAWRRrrr_ noise when you floor it. I did VAGCOM logs on the stock chip years ago comparing the ignition advance on varying octane, and the advance never moved despite the octane I ran. I think it was 16* BTDC, if I remember correctly. Running more advance aids in what would give you more power. The ignition timing running hotter (i.e. more advance) is what you would feel if there was, in fact, a change going from 87 to 89oct. But, there is no change in the stock tune, so....


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## FourEyes (Jun 11, 2010)

Ah I understand now. Thanks :thumbup:


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## GlamKills619 (Mar 19, 2012)

Awesome!


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## OC80 (Aug 9, 2010)

Colm my car isn't running right! The chip you put in for me works good though! I don't know what happened! It was doing really good, the car felt faster with the new chip, it revs off the RPM gauge past the 7!!!  and was driving really well. Today I got in it to drive to class and it kept bucking at like 2k rpms!!! It stalled once too in traffic! and when I push the clutch in, sometimes the revs don't go down all the way to idle.. they go to like 1600 and climb a little bit! WTH? The only thing I did since you put the chip in for me was change to a Jetta front end. Would that have something to do with this? I lost your telephone number, and I can't remember your address. Can you call me please? Thanks!!! 

PS: Say hi to your wifey and daughters for me!! :heart:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

OC80 said:


> Colm my car isn't running right! The chip you put in for me works good though! I don't know what happened! It was doing really good, the car felt faster with the new chip, it revs off the RPM gauge past the 7!!!  and was driving really well. Today I got in it to drive to class and it kept bucking at like 2k rpms!!! It stalled once too in traffic! and when I push the clutch in, sometimes the revs don't go down all the way to idle.. they go to like 1600 and climb a little bit! WTH? The only thing I did since you put the chip in for me was change to a Jetta front end. Would that have something to do with this? I lost your telephone number, and I can't remember your address. Can you call me please? Thanks!!!
> 
> PS: Say hi to your wifey and daughters for me!! :heart:


I'll be over at 10am tomorrow with a different chip. :thumbup:


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Anyone else notice C2 chips are on sale for 150? Well, I've told you.. so..


----------



## OC80 (Aug 9, 2010)

Hurt said:


> I'll be over at 10am tomorrow with a different chip. :thumbup:


 Thanks so much for your help Colm!!! I'll pay you back for the chip asap.  :heart:


----------



## OC80 (Aug 9, 2010)

Hi guys! 
As some of you might know I have a OBD2 Golf with a 2.0 with a Neuspeed P-Flo intake (with the heatshield!), a 260 TT camshaft, a 2.25" exhaust system, and a giac chip for aftermarket camshafts.. 

Now, I hear mixed opinions about the intake. 

Some people say i should put the stock airbox back in. Some say I should buy a KN filter in the box. Some say I should cut holes in the bottom passenger side of the box. Some say I should keep the P-Flo! I'm really confused. Can anyone give me a definite answer with proof of dyno gains, please? thank you!!


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

OC80 said:


> Hi guys!
> As some of you might know I have a OBD2 Golf with a 2.0 with a Neuspeed P-Flo intake (with the heatshield!), a 260 TT camshaft, a 2.25" exhaust system, and a giac chip for aftermarket camshafts..
> 
> Now, I hear mixed opinions about the intake.
> ...


 Just keep the P-flow, it's marginally better than the stock airbox, and it sounds better.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Hey, guys. I spent the afternoon with OC80 - we designed an airbox together. It integrates ram-air (Via a velocity stack behind the lower bumper opening sealed to 3" ducting straight to the bottom of the airbox) and switched the little air intake elbow that goes into the fender on the front of the airbox for 3" ducting with a velocity stack inside of the fender. It has a K&N panel filter. Does it make more power than stock? Maybe. Does it look cool? Hell yeah! I'm going to put a mesh backing infront of the duct, just so no leaves get sucked up in there. It looks good, if you ask me. This golf sport of mine is just basically a try-new-things car. Hell, I have a 70mm exhaust on it with a VIBRANT muffler on the end, which actually sounds good. Here are the pics from during the install: 

Edit: pictures don't work. FU camera. FU.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

bump for the forum :beer:


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I'm trying to put together a transmission area.


----------



## OC80 (Aug 9, 2010)

Hurt said:


> I'm trying to put together a transmission area.


 what are the ratios of your 6 speed in your black jetta? Do you think I should swap a corrado transmission into my car? Would you be able to help with that? 

your phone is off.  

oh and i have first dibs on your gti?


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

OC80 said:


> what are the ratios of your 6 speed in your black jetta? Do you think I should swap a corrado transmission into my car? Would you be able to help with that?
> 
> your phone is off.
> 
> oh and i have first dibs on your gti?


 The ratios are: 
3.3 
1.94 
1.31 
1.09 
.89 
.75 
3.94 F/D 

@ 7k I'm going 
1st - 35 
2nd - 60 
3rd - 90 
4th - 110 
5th - 130 
6th - never tried to top it out.. I cruise at 3000 RPM @ 70mph. 

If you swap a corrado g60 transmission into your car, it'll be able to put up with more abuse. Personally I like the cable shift linkage better than the 020 rod shift. If you really want to do it, I can help you. I'm selling the GTI as soon as I finish fixing the little bugs. If you want it, you can have it. Call me (phone's on now!), I don't want to clutter up the thread.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Bump for the forum 
:beer::beer::beer: 
:beer::beer::beer:


----------



## JohnStamos (Feb 3, 2010)

Hurt said:


> Also -
> has anyone run a Autotech or Neuspeed chip and actually GAINED good power with a cam upgrade? I have heard negative things about the Neuspeed one, and same with the Autotech one. I had a friend with an ABA and the autotech chip just sucked gas down.. Switched to a tt chip and he got better power, response, and far better MPG.
> 
> ~Colm


 
If I tell you why the Nuespeed and Autotech chips are completely worthless, I'm just gonna have TDAWG jump all over me posting his misinformation again like last time.

Pull the ROM off them and see for yourself why they suck. Hint: They change ONE table. That's it.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

JohnStamos said:


> If I tell you why the Nuespeed and Autotech chips are completely worthless, I'm just gonna have TDAWG jump all over me posting his misinformation again like last time.
> 
> Pull the ROM off them and see for yourself why they suck. Hint: They change ONE table. That's it.


 No no, I realize the Neuspeed and autotech chips aren't the best. I had a friend run both in his ABA rabbit. Minimal power gains, and they sucked down gas like you would(n't) believe. 

I really hate how autotech's chip says "gains the ability to rev faster to the new *6900* rpm redline". I mean, seriously? A non cammed aba revving to nearly 7k?! Sounds like a recipe for disaster! 

The Neuspeed chip is a little better IMO. But I hate how neuspeed lies about their products (well, they sort of post a generic hp gain, "gain 5-8whp!" for their P-flo intake systems. Even for the Jetta 2.0. I mean.. come on. That kind of upsets me, as I love Neuspeed for their suspension components. 

As I state all the time, TT is my favorite chip. The cam file is slightly different than the non-cam file. I saw the dyno on TT's website, I think. It advances the timing a little more, gives it more gas, balances the idle, etc. 

The C2 chips are sort of problematic. They are probably the newest chip tune on the market for the ABA, but tons of people are coming forward with problems with bucking at low RPM, stalling in the cold, throwing check engine lights, etc. 
The Stage 1 chip for no cam raises the limiter to 7300 RPM. Useless. It's crazy. I ran a C2 chip in a few cars. 2/3 ABA's with it had a problem. 

I have one in my Golf VR6, and I have no problems at all (race file chip, SAI delete plug, 268's, HD valve springs, MK4 HG, intake, and 3" exhaust).. and I have 0 problems. Never. None. I guess something is wrong with the coding in the ABA C2 chips. 

All in all, my favorite company for VW performance parts = TT for engine mods, Neuspeed for suspension (because they stock KONI), GIAC, C2, BBM, etc. I have lots of favorites. Lol.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Here's a picture of an INJEN intake system installed in a MK3. Quite nifty IMO.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

JohnStamos said:


> If I tell you why the Nuespeed and Autotech chips are completely worthless, I'm just gonna have TDAWG jump all over me posting his misinformation again like last time.
> 
> Pull the ROM off them and see for yourself why they suck. Hint: They change ONE table. That's it.


 I love spreading misinformation. I wish I knew as much as JohnStamos does. 

/sarcasm


----------



## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

That injen setup looks nice and all.. but it looks like an exact copy of the stock setup.. all except for the fact the the stock box already has kind of a velocity stack into the MAF, from the looks of it, that's just plane plate aluminum in there.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

AJmustDIE said:


> That injen setup looks nice and all.. but it looks like an exact copy of the stock setup.. all except for the fact the the stock box already has kind of a velocity stack into the MAF, from the looks of it, that's just plane plate aluminum in there.


 It's a conical filter inside of that aluminum box. It's bigger, too. It's a really nice set up, because a cone filter on the end of the maf with no way to get more air robs power. This keeps the factory air intake lower box, has more of a surface area than the stock filter, provides nice cold air from the fender, etc. It's a great stealthy modification if you paint it black. But, you can pretty much make your own injen intake by shaving down the outside of the stock airbox where the maf bolts on, so you have the lip of the maf sticking into the airbox. Then you get a cone filter and bolt it up. CAI. It's a good intake system IMO.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Anyone know anything about KENT cams? They have HUGE amounts of lift. The 260* cam has a 440 lift..


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Anyone know anything about UnitedMotorsport's N/A stage 1 chip? 
From their website: 
'Increased horsepower and torque 
Speed limiter removed 
Smoother idle 
Smoother under partial throttle conditions 
Improved engine response 
Optimized power delivery 
Working Immobilizer 
Fuel Octane-indifferent performance map 
Improved fuel economy' 
N/A Stage 1 

"Typical gains of 15 whp over OEM 

Actual customer dynos :125 whp 

Supported ECUs: 021 906 259X 

Price: $199" 
...15 WHP over OEM? I'm calling BS.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

No different than the C2/PEM, IMHO.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> No different than the C2/PEM, IMHO.


 Isn't it a break off of C2? I don't really believe 15 WHP. I mean, that's serious stuff. I don't think taking my chip out of my car for the OEM one would put me down to 120whp. And they're advertising it as stage one - not cam specific. How would you even go about gaining 15 more wheel horsepower without changing the cam? It just seems they're stretching the truth for marketing purposes. But to me, C2 does the same thing. Hell, all aftermarket companies do. :screwy:


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Yup, bs.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Yup, bs.


 Do you happen to know if the C2 chip issues are squashed yet? I want to buy a C2 chip for mine if they're resolved, especially since they dropped their price :thumbup:. The TT chip I have in it now is starting to act up. Rev hang when I push the clutch in (I've noticed this with nearly every chip), the throttle feels a little off.. 

Bah. 

My VR6 runs 100% better than the stock chip with the C2, and has 0 problems, and I expected it to. It doesn't even have it's Check Engine light on and it has Intake, Exhaust, Cam, HG, Etc.. I wish C2 could squash this problem.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I'm going to add a SRI/LRI section, since so many companies make manifolds for the ABA, and they offer substantial power gains. When I put my USRT manifold on my Race Coupe, it was a competely different car. So much more response. More power (LOADS). Awesome vacuum sound. So versatile. USRT = :thumbup: 

Speaking of USRT, does anyone have a USRT smartshift kit installed in their MK3? If so, can you post a video of going through the gears at a stop, and wiggling the shift selector while in gear to see how much play it eliminates? I don't have a rod shift car anymore - And only had my USRT kit sitting on a shelf. Thinking of giving it to my little brother for his 16th birthday. Oh, and he's already off to a good start. I bought him a 97 Jetta Wolfsburg. :thumbup: I think I'll use it as my DIY-thread-car-thing, since my Jetta has everything done already except for a better tune (waiting for C2 chip problems to go away!) 

~Colm


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I apologize for the lack of updates, I have been busy with work and my family.. Looking to do a few DIY threads soon.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

For the forum

:beer::beer::beer:
:beer::beer::beer:
:beer::beer::beer:
:beer::beer::beer:


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Jessi (oc80) noticed that USRT sells high performance panel filters for 25 bucks! I'll add some more information tomorrow, guys.

:thumbup:

This calls for a:


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Jessi (oc80) noticed that USRT sells high performance panel filters for 25 bucks! I'll add some more information tomorrow, guys.
> 
> :thumbup:
> 
> This calls for a:


 :thumbup::beer:


----------



## Old Windy (Apr 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> I'm going to add a SRI/LRI section, since so many companies make manifolds for the ABA, and they offer substantial power gains. When I put my USRT manifold on my Race Coupe, it was a competely different car. So much more response. More power (LOADS). Awesome vacuum sound. So versatile. USRT = :thumbup:
> 
> Speaking of USRT, does anyone have a USRT smartshift kit installed in their MK3? If so, can you post a video of going through the gears at a stop, and wiggling the shift selector while in gear to see how much play it eliminates? I don't have a rod shift car anymore - And only had my USRT kit sitting on a shelf. Thinking of giving it to my little brother for his 16th birthday. Oh, and he's already off to a good start. I bought him a 97 Jetta Wolfsburg. :thumbup: I think I'll use it as my DIY-thread-car-thing, since my Jetta has everything done already except for a better tune (waiting for C2 chip problems to go away!)
> 
> ~Colm


The best way top describe the USRT shift kit is like going from a MK3 to a Mini Cooper SC. The shifting motion is more heavier compared to factory and in my case it made me learn were the speed are because unlike the factory one that lets you kinda cheat into a speed with the USRT there is no slack on the stick so you have to know were the gear is. The difference is like dating a 4 and going out with a definite 10 and giving you permission to do with her all the things you wanted to do ....

Make sure to also install it with a quick shifter.

I could make a video of mine but since my car is currently dismantled and on it's way to go from 020 to hydro I can't. But the USRT shifter is all good. Also don't skimp on the lube for the bearings. Other than that just re-lube them with every other oil change.

:thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Old Windy said:


> The best way top describe the USRT shift kit is like going from a MK3 to a Mini Cooper SC. The shifting motion is more heavier compared to factory and in my case it made me learn were the speed are because unlike the factory one that lets you kinda cheat into a speed with the USRT there is no slack on the stick so you have to know were the gear is. The difference is like dating a 4 and going out with a definite 10 and giving you permission to do with her all the things you wanted to do ....
> 
> Make sure to also install it with a quick shifter.
> 
> ...


 Thanks for the review! Sounds solid. Looks like I'll install one after all. I'm just so hooked on 02a transmissions, I never bother with 020 rod shifts anymore. My 6 speed cable shift is like butter. :beer:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

...Went to go look at a beater Jetta TREK today. It has LEATHER TREK seats.. I've never seen that before!


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Noticed the amount of views this gets a day, and wow. I'm glad I could help so many people!


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## gtr3nos1 (Sep 7, 2008)

Hurt said:


> ...Went to go look at a beater Jetta TREK today. It has LEATHER TREK seats.. I've never seen that before!



grab any pics?


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

JohnStamos said:


> If I tell you why the Nuespeed and Autotech chips are completely worthless, I'm just gonna have TDAWG jump all over me posting his misinformation again like last time.
> 
> Pull the ROM off them and see for yourself why they suck. Hint: They change ONE table. That's it.


In the OBD1 P-chip, they change more than one map. GIAC kills them hands down though, if comparing on quantity of maps changed. The P-chip richens the fueling a bit, at WOT, but mostly just changes the main ignition map. Most of the tuners follow the same recipe, from what I've seen of the OBD1 NA chips anyway. Not trying to start a fight, but if we're talking about misinformation...


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

gtr3nos1 said:


> grab any pics?


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## FourEyes (Jun 11, 2010)

So are you going to update this to cover machine work to the head at some point?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Not unless there is a qualified machinist, competent with VW heads, in here able to supply factual info.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

FourEyes said:


> So are you going to update this to cover machine work to the head at some point?


No, I've thought about it alot.



911_fan said:


> Not unless there is a qualified machinist, competent with VW heads, in here able to supply factual info.


This is why.


Everyone does things differently, and I don't want to post misinformation or anything. VW headwork is difficult, especially if you don't know what you're doing. Hogging out a ABA head = fail in most DIY cases.


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## OC80 (Aug 9, 2010)

Colm are you selling your 8v? Jimmy told me you might and if you do i'll buy it! I want that 6 speed! I tried pming you but your inbox is full.. how is the corrado doing? did you put the weitec kit on it yet? give me a call sometime!


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

OC80 said:


> Colm are you selling your 8v? Jimmy told me you might and if you do i'll buy it! I want that 6 speed! I tried pming you but your inbox is full.. how is the corrado doing? did you put the weitec kit on it yet? give me a call sometime!


It's empty now. Yeah, I may sell it and get back into flipping cars for fun. I got really bored because I did everything I wanted to do to it, I don't have any goal anymore. I may buy a BBM lysolm. Haven't decided yet.. I'll keep you updated.


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## stlgolf3 (May 1, 2012)

if im geting the 42 test pipe which would be the best header to get i already have a 2.5' exhaust from the cat to the back


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

OBX or Raceland


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> OBX or Raceland


x2.
If you get the OBX, you may run into the issue of the ports not sitting flush. A few wacks of a mallet will fix that.


----------



## Old Windy (Apr 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> ...Went to go look at a beater Jetta TREK today. It has LEATHER TREK seats.. I've never seen that before!


Wow. That is weird. Did you buy it. What type of doors cards it had?


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Old Windy said:


> Wow. That is weird. Did you buy it. What type of doors cards it had?


They were the "shark skin" kind. I posted a picture a page back. I picked the TREK up for 400 dollars to flip. It has a blown headgasket.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

TTT for the forum.

PS: Anyone got a BBM Lysholm for sale? I want a stage 3 kit for my daily. I'm done with N/A 8v's for a while. Making 135whp on my daily is.. well, okay, and making 160 was great on my old coupe (that engine is currently making 200+), but I'd rather make over 220whp with BBM's kit, and a 276* LLA cam. 6 speed + 220whp = gonna be fun.

Travis, if you get a chance, would you reccommend me a great cam for high boost levels? (15-20 PSI) that's better than the 268/260?

Thanks guys. Glad this thread helps fellow enthusiasts.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

TT's FI 276*. Specs are in my cam thread.


€


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> TT's FI 276*. Specs are in my cam thread.
> 
> 
> €


I can't seem to find it on TT's website. Thanks for the help, bud! :thumbup:

To jessi: Your phone is shut off, apparently, and PM's are going error.. If you want to help me pull the flip-car's head off tomorrow, I'll be at my house in Long Meadow. I am rebuilding the head, doing maintenance to it, putting in stock GL seats, stripping all the good stuff (complete MINT side skirts, winged trunk, fog lights, leathers, silver faced cluster, tinted tails, heated seat switch and wiring, etc) and replacing them with their lesser counterparts, too, and then I'm selling it. If you happen to have a T-red non-wing trunk, let me know. It's already sold for 2,000 if it runs good and drives. Friends daughter needs a 1st car. :thumbup: 1600 dollar profit +goodies? awww yeah.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Call them


€


----------



## stlgolf3 (May 1, 2012)

Ill just go with raceland header n 42 dd delete pipe, I shouldnt run into any problems right


----------



## stlgolf3 (May 1, 2012)

I been also looking at the intakes but still having trouble on deciding which one I want


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

stlgolf3 said:


> Ill just go with raceland header n 42 dd delete pipe, I shouldnt run into any problems right


No, you shouldn't have any problems.



stlgolf3 said:


> I been also looking at the intakes but still having trouble on deciding which one I want


I'd recommend Neuspeed's P-Flo, or make your own.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Call them
> 
> 
> €


I found it on NGP. Thanks! I appreciate it. I'm hoping for 240WHP with the stage 3 bbm kit with the 276 FI cam and my current set up (well, most of it). I'll have to get rid of my SRI, though, to fit the lysholm in the engine bay, and get rid of my 90mm HG for the headspacer, take my 276* cam out for the LSA boost cam, and fab up another intake.. Possibly bigger exhaust, too, since mine is 2.5". Sigh. I would just go with a turbo, but I've had both, and I prefer S/Cers.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Huh. Looks like some of C2's issues have been fixed. Running a stage 2 cam file on my daily and I have 0 problems. More power than the TT chip. You're definitely right, Travis, it feels like the car was holding back with the TT chip.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Hurt said:


> Huh. *Looks like some of C2's issues have been fixed. Running a stage 2 cam file on my daily and I have 0 problems*. More power than the TT chip. You're definitely right, Travis, it feels like the car was holding back with the TT chip.


Well, nevermind. Knew it was too good to be true!

I drove ~ 100 miles today, started it over 10-15 times.. 
Chip is definitely adapted. Throttle body is adapted, of course. It stalls, and the idle is ~850-900 RPM. I also smell it's running rich. I never had this problem with the TT chip. 

Sigh.. I'll give it a week before I talk to TT and see if they have any new custom tunes. Or go back to my TT 276* cam chip, or my GIAC cam chip. Maybe I'll give UM a try (doubtful), even though they lie (15whp gain stock!!!). 

I'm really close to buying a BBM kit. I've already built my 160whp 8v, and it's now at 200 MS'd and with a bigger cam, and a autotech 2.1l kit. 

N/A 8v's are nice, unique, and fun. But I've come to the point where I have done everything possible to this daily of mine. 135.9 whp is good, but not enough. BBM kit is coming soon if this chip doesn't fix itself..


----------



## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Shut up and do it. :laugh:


----------



## Boomshakalaka9 (Mar 22, 2012)

i have a question if i do a batter relocate with the mark 4 manifold sway could i buy a mark 4 cold air intake system ?


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Boomshakalaka9 said:


> i have a question if i do a batter relocate with the mark 4 manifold sway could i buy a mark 4 cold air intake system ?


Yeah, you can. If you can switch the battery to the passenger side of the vehicle, a 1.8T or 2.0 intake works pretty nicely.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Bump for the forum :thumbup:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Well, nevermind. Knew it was too good to be true!
> 
> I drove ~ 100 miles today, started it over 10-15 times..
> Chip is definitely adapted. Throttle body is adapted, of course. It stalls, and the idle is ~850-900 RPM. I also smell it's running rich. I never had this problem with the TT chip.
> ...


do u have a thread or pics/video of yr 8v builds, i cant seem to find anything...


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> do u have a thread or pics/video of yr 8v builds, i cant seem to find anything...


No, not really. I didn't know about this website until I JUST built my ABA track coupe. 
I don't find it fulfilling to be like "hey, I did this to my car. Take a look at my pictures." I'm going to try to get my friend to take me to see my old coupe on Sedona Raceway this summer, I may buy it back. :thumbup:


----------



## stlgolf3 (May 1, 2012)

ok after i get that neuspeed intake, raceland headers and the test pipe, whats my next step? the chip or


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

stlgolf3 said:


> ok after i get that neuspeed intake, raceland headers and the test pipe, whats my next step? the chip or


If you don't have a full exhaust, get a catback first. A chip is a good power increase, but figure out if you want a stock cam or a performance cam (would really feel nice).


----------



## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Hurt said:


> N/A 8v's are nice, unique, and fun. But I've come to the point where I have done everything possible to this daily of mine. 135.9 whp is good, but not enough. BBM kit is coming soon if this chip doesn't fix itself..


Welcome to the club...I just threw one of my zr1 chargers on my mostly stock ride. Pulls harder than my old modded ABA with SRI, headwork, race header, etc...charger is relatively quiet too. I just hooked the boost gauge up tonight so not sure how much it's pushing. I'm going to try and swap my old worked head after I get it looked at and a different cam thrown in. Going to try and run the SRI too which is why I chose the zr1 over the BBM. If I run the SRI i'll probably run a top mount intercooler and get a smaller pulley for more boost. I got different injectors and software to try still too. Should be pretty quick for a 2.0. I may sell the other zr1 kit I have but it needs a drive pulley spindle.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> Welcome to the club...I just threw one of my zr1 chargers on my mostly stock ride. Pulls harder than my old modded ABA with SRI, headwork, race header, etc...charger is relatively quiet too. I just hooked the boost gauge up tonight so not sure how much it's pushing. I'm going to try and swap my old worked head after I get it looked at and a different cam thrown in. Going to try and run the SRI too which is why I chose the zr1 over the BBM. If I run the SRI i'll probably run a top mount intercooler and get a smaller pulley for more boost. I got different injectors and software to try still too. Should be pretty quick for a 2.0. I may sell the other zr1 kit I have but it needs a drive pulley spindle.


I've already ordered my BBM lysholm, stage 1, 2, and 3. I will be swapping out their 268/260 cam for a 276 LSA boost cam, and using a fully ported MK4 manifold instead of my USRT SRI (because of the intercooler).

With my current Euro OBD1 head, everything should flow well, as it's been given a 3 angle valve job and also been decked 040". While I have the head apart for the cam install, I will be adding TT's big valve kit (+1.5mm/+1mm oversized), too.

My exhaust set up is pretty much done, (mk4 ported header to a TT race DP and 2.5" Mandrel bent piping). I like the exhaust because it is quiet, and I made it myself. 

I will also be doing some sort of brake job. Most likely a G60 front and a MK4 rear caliper set up with drilled/slotted rotors. 

I am hoping for around 300whp. The pulley is good for 15+ PSI, so.. we'll see.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Bump for the forum. 


PS:I've been working on my VR lately, but BBM kit should be here Monday or Tuesday. Hopefully my little brother Jim will be helping, along with Jessi (Oc80), and I can make a DIY thread.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

My c2 chips' problems are gone! I am experiencing good power, a good idle, little to now rev hang (sometimes it'll go from 1000 back to idle very slowly after I press the clutch in). It isn't running rich anymore, either. :thumbup:


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> My c2 chips' problems are gone! I am experiencing good power, a good idle, little to now rev hang (sometimes it'll go from 1000 back to idle very slowly after I press the clutch in). It isn't running rich anymore, either. :thumbup:


howd u fix it?


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> howd u fix it?


I just dealt with the issues for about 2 weeks, and low and behold, no more problems.


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## stlgolf3 (May 1, 2012)

I actually have a catback its 2.5 " piping no resenator thats why I was asking what my next step is


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

stlgolf3 said:


> I actually have a catback its 2.5 " piping no resenator thats why I was asking what my next step is


Well it depends on what you want from the car, what year it is, etc. If you've got a 93-95, you can get a 270* cam and a matching chip and the car will really wake up. If it's 96+, you'll need to upgrade valve springs if you want to use a cam with more than .432" of lift.. So you could get a 260* cam (432" lift) and a matching chip from TT, C2, GIAC, etc.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> I just dealt with the issues for about 2 weeks, and low and behold, no more problems.


I have to install the revised chip (its in my glovebox), I'm still running on the OG stg2 chip....

btw what cam were you using for yr 136whp build??


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> I have to install the revised chip (its in my glovebox), I'm still running on the OG stg2 chip....
> 
> btw what cam were you using for yr 136whp build??


It's a TT 276*, I could have made more power using the 288 or 298 but I do daily it.. So that was out of the picture. I've been paying more attention to my VR, lately, though..


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

hmm yeh VR's are nice, sexy sound

Im thinking of building an obd1 head with 50 thousandths shaved off and this cam http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1766


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> hmm yeh VR's are nice, sexy sound
> 
> Im thinking of building an obd1 head with 50 thousandths shaved off and this cam http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1766


Yeah, VR6's sound awesome.. but only get 2/3 of the MPG of my 8v. More power, though, and I love the flat torque band. Pulls to the rev limiter like it's on a mission, bouncing off at around 7200! I only drive it because the 8v is in hiding right now, awaiting it's new parts.

I bought one of those 276 boost cams. It's in the mail. It should be here soon, it'll be installed on my OBD1 euro head that's shaved 040" and it has a 3 angle valve job. I'll be adding oversized valves, too. :thumbup: 

BBM lysholm = :heart:


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Yeah, VR6's sound awesome.. but only get 2/3 of the MPG of my 8v. More power, though, and I love the flat torque band. Pulls to the rev limiter like it's on a mission, bouncing off at around 7200! I only drive it because the 8v is in hiding right now, awaiting it's new parts.
> 
> I bought one of those 276 boost cams. It's in the mail. It should be here soon, it'll be installed on my OBD1 euro head that's shaved 040" and it has a 3 angle valve job. I'll be adding oversized valves, too. :thumbup:
> 
> BBM lysholm = :heart:


sick, but when you run that cam you'll already have the SC on? or will u run it then put the SC on?


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> sick, but when you run that cam you'll already have the SC on? or will u run it then put the SC on?


It's all going in at once. :thumbup:


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

sick


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> sick


This weekend it should be done, if my packages come. With the 6 speed this car will be a rocket. I'll need wider tires, though. I currently have 175/50/15's on a 15x7 rim (Konig candy) for the summer season. I'm going to raise the car 1.0" F and 1.5" R, and get a set of new rims for the 225/45/15 Toyo R1R high performance rubber I have sitting in the garage. Hopefully the rubbing isn't too bad.

Getting kind of off topic - if you'd like to keep chatting, we can take it to PM's.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

**** it I think _somebody_ should cover head porting, as it is single handedly WHERE the power is to be gained from on these 8v's.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

AJmustDIE said:


> **** it I think _somebody_ should cover head porting, as it is single handedly WHERE the power is to be gained from on these 8v's.


We'd need a machinist to do it and go over the whole thing. It's too complicated for the average DIYer, and hogging out your head will likely result in decreased power unless you REALLY know what you're doing.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Paging root beer.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

AJmustDIE said:


> Paging *NY_fam*.


FTFY

(no offense, Tim)




€


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

I wasn't singling out Tim as the most knowledgeable person on the subject, rather bring him in to show that anybody with a decent amount of sense, proper tooling and knows when to stop can do it.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

The thing with these heads, well, any head really, is that it takes a person with years of experience to visually know when enough is enough. It's not all about removing as much material as possible; you have to take into consideration cam profile (valve timing and lift figures) and valve size. In other words, velocity. 

But for the most part, the gains most noticeable are done at the bowl/seat and the cut blend of the valves. That's something 90% of the people cannot do effectively. 

But watching some YouTube vids on port wall clean-up and port matching to the intake is beneficial. Anyone with a good grinder can do that. 


€


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

I heard that the only way to port a head is to straight up cast it from the fires of Mordor! 

I think most of us can find some basic theory on google.

There are plenty of obvious improvements that can be made here. The ~5 heads i've done have all made totally decent power in relation to the vw performance benchmarks out there.

I totally emptied my current aba head, i just got ugly with it for a little bit of fun honestly. Considering the fact that it's a nitrous build in a light car, i was pretty aggressive. If it doesn't work, i'm not going to be insulted either....i'll just know not to go with that kind of port shape again. 

If things don't look even, they were less even when i started. 


















I'll try to see what it make with the 276, but what it's ported more for is the 298. If it makes good power, i'm probably going oversized on the exhaust, but stock, cut down intake valves.

You don't know unless you try. I just don't like my trials to come at a professional's rates, and I love playing with a grinder.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Plus that's a nitrous port if I ever seen one! :laugh:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Good ol' Nitrous.. Blown up a few motors with laughing gas.


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## ny_fam (Apr 3, 2004)

some one call?

Comments on the porting ... some things to remember air takes the shortest route, and doesn't like to change direction. So those areas need the most work.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

My BBM kit is coming tomorrow, along with the rest of my packages. 

Bump for the forum's sake, guys. I'll be making some 0-60 and 0-100 pulls using my daily before FI and after, too. Friend just bought a farm with a near 1/2 mile long driveway. :thumbup:


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> My BBM kit is coming tomorrow, along with the rest of my packages.
> 
> Bump for the forum's sake, guys. I'll be making some 0-60 and 0-100 pulls using my daily before FI and after, too. Friend just bought a farm with a near 1/2 mile long driveway. :thumbup:


:thumbup::thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

C2 issues seem to be pretty well fixed. :thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Bump for the forum.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Bump for picturing of new whining goodness.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Looking into adding a SRI section. Maybe a feedback section? 

Say, if you have a C2 chip, or a eurosport intake. You can give your feedback on the item, and I can add it to a list. Something like 

Eurosport intake :thumbup:, :thumbdown:, :thumbup:, :thumbup: 

Neuspeed intake :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: 

Something like that.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

For the SRI section, you could list all known premade units and then list Ross Machine Racing's site for the DIY guys.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

AJmustDIE said:


> For the SRI section, you could list all known premade units and then list Ross Machine Racing's site for the DIY guys.


 Yeah, I'm trying to find more info on the HKK one. The USRT one is a very nice piece. :thumbup:


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## stlgolf3 (May 1, 2012)

Yeah I have the 94 golf im pretty sure its obd 1 also so which chip is thatbthe 270, n damm I had another question but I keep blanking n idk if anyone had a problem with their speedometer not working mine seems to work 2% of t he time usally if I go over a bump it will stop working or just wont start at all, n I have some kind of sound like keys jingling in the back left side I cant figure out what it is


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

stlgolf3 said:


> Yeah I have the 94 golf im pretty sure its obd 1 also so which chip is thatbthe 270, n damm I had another question but I keep blanking n idk if anyone had a problem with their speedometer not working mine seems to work 2% of t he time usally if I go over a bump it will stop working or just wont start at all, n I have some kind of sound like keys jingling in the back left side I cant figure out what it is


 It's OBD1. You can get various different chips. TT sells one, GIAC does too. I'd go with TT. You just go online and order a chip that matches the number on the top of your ECU. 

The 270* Autotech cam is a very nice piece. Good power, good idle. For OBD1, you don't need HD valve springs. Just remember you'll need to change the lifters, (~80 dollars). 

Sounds like your cluster is bad. Go get one from a 93-98 Jetta/Golf/Cabrio/GTI and swap it in. It's 6 screws total.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Hurt said:


> Yeah, I'm trying to find more info on the HKK one. The USRT one is a very nice piece. :thumbup:


 911_fan would know. He ran and dynoed both. I could be wrong, but I thought all the original USRT ones were made by HKK. Kind of custom pieces and not really production. He was taking stock lower manifolds as cores.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> 911_fan would know. He ran and dynoed both. I could be wrong, but I thought all the original USRT ones were made by HKK. Kind of custom pieces and not really production. He was taking stock lower manifolds as cores.


 Paging 911_fan! 


I know from experience that the USRT piece is very very nice.. I don't know if any other companies really make a "good" one. I don't want to bother adding a place that says "buy a generic DIY intake manifold" because it's definitely more involved than the average person can do, and there is science behind it. I wouldn't run a home made SRI, unless I built it and made it from R to D.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

It's not hard to do... if you can make measurements and can weld, or have somebody weld for you it opens up a whole world. Screw paying $700 for something that I built for $300, and **** on it in terms of flow. 




























Colm, this thread shouldn't be carried with the attitude of "something your average person can't do and won't be included" kind of thread. Those kind of decisions should be left up to the people attempting such things. If they feel it's too much for them well then maybe it is, that's not to say it shouldn't be included among this resource bin for ambitious people who don't want to puss foot around and actually want to make power.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

AJmustDIE said:


> It's not hard to do... if you can make measurements and can weld, or have somebody weld for you it opens up a whole world. Screw paying $700 for something that I built for $300, and **** on it in terms of flow.
> 
> 
> Colm, this thread shouldn't be carried with the attitude of "something your average person can't do and won't be included" kind of thread. Those kind of decisions should be left up to the people attempting such things. If they feel it's too much for them well then maybe it is, that's not to say it shouldn't be included among this resource bin for ambitious people who don't want to puss foot around and actually want to make power.


 You're right. :thumbup: 
I'll try to look into some DIY kits. I know BBM sells one, and I'm sure ebay does too. Using the stock lower intake manifold/fuel rail makes things a bit easier if possible.. I suppose it wouldn't be too hard. 

I just think they can go wrong easily and you can starve cylinders if you don't know what you're doing, you know? It's like playing with fire.


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## 2.slowduo (Sep 17, 2008)

the mk4 lower manifold is smaller at the head than it is at the union of upper and lower creating a venturi effect 

thus making it a better place to start a diy sri 
just a thought


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

The HKK ones were like $400 or less with core when they were being made. I don't think they were that sophisticated of a design. The USRT ones were an improvement, but the same guy, Greg Haley from HKK/SVi Welding, was making them as far as I know. The latest USRT long runner ones are someone else I'm pretty sure. I don't remember whole story but I remember people having problems getting work and parts back from Greg. Schimmel makes them too. I don't know about for a 2.0, but money talks.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> The HKK ones were like $400 or less with core when they were being made. I don't think they were that sophisticated of a design. The USRT ones were an improvement, but the same guy, Greg Haley from HKK/SVi Welding, was making them as far as I know. The latest USRT long runner ones are someone else I'm pretty sure. I don't remember whole story but I remember people having problems getting work and parts back from Greg. Schimmel makes them too. I don't know about for a 2.0, but money talks.


 The USRT manifold is awesome. Thanks for the info brother.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

The only thing I'd suggest if you decide to build your own or get a custom one is to look into a dual plenum design. It'll distribute the air more equally at the runners/head. May not be too important for an N/A build, but for FI it could make a considerable difference.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

THe first version's of Greg's manifolds were a basic log welded to a lower stock piece. Then went to a measured log, stock bottom, domed with pressed-bell runners. THe latter is what was rebranded as USRT manifolds, and one of the models I dyno tested. He made the custom manifold that I ran (and sold to Zero). 

THere was a huge pissing match (which I wont get into due to involvement) between Greg/HKK and Scott/USRT over production, so USRT went with various other welders and claimed a "different" design; so began the 'LRI'. All that consisted of was the bells integrated into the plenum wall as opposed to the original design of them protruding into the plenum. (


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

AJmustDIE said:


> It's not hard to do... if you can make measurements and can weld, or have somebody weld for you it opens up a whole world. Screw paying $700 for something that I built for $300, and **** on it in terms of flow.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
that looks very nice, i gotta start checking the classifieds more often for a SRI/LRI... cuz yeh $700 is a lot... 500 wouldn't be so bad.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> that looks very nice, i gotta start checking the classifieds more often for a SRI/LRI... cuz yeh $700 is a lot... 500 wouldn't be so bad.


 700 isn't too bad for a 20whp gain, especially if you keep the USRT manifold and use it in other cars (I've had mine in 3 different cars!). It's probably the best performance part for a N/A 2.0 to make power except for a huge cam. :thumbup:


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

zero. said:


> The only thing I'd suggest if you decide to build your own or get a custom one is to look into a dual plenum design. It'll distribute the air more equally at the runners/head. May not be too important for an N/A build, but for FI it could make a considerable difference.


 Actually for a REAL n/a application, it would mean _everything._


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

The SRI manifolds are soooo good for power. I wish I could run mine with my BBM kit, but, alas, I cannot. I'm stuck with a ported MK4 manifold.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Dude, you could so get a built LRI with a nice sized plenum in there. It would resemble the 16v intake in shape but it could be built to PERFORM. I say take the plunge. BE A PIONEER.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Hurt said:


> 700 isn't too bad for a 20whp gain, :thumbup:


 700 for the average manifold is too much, IMHO. Thats a cash grab of about $400 in profit after materials and labor is factored in. Trust me on that. The first 3 manifolds I bought were for under $300. (that was my price, though) And with the one I tested, even with a dinky 264* cam retarded 4*, I gained 21whp @ 6000rpms over the stock MKIII manifold. That's huge. Even on a bone stock motor, the older HKK manifolds were seeing a 10-12whp gain on the top end.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> 700 for the average manifold is too much, IMHO. Thats a cash grab of about $400 in profit after materials and labor is factored in. Trust me on that. The first 3 manifolds I bought were for under $300. (that was my price, though) And with the one I tested, even with a dinky 264* cam retarded 4*, I gained 21whp @ 6000rpms over the stock MKIII manifold. That's huge. Even on a bone stock motor, the older HKK manifolds were seeing a 10-12whp gain on the top end.


 yeh I remember those dynos...


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> 700 for the average manifold is too much, IMHO. Thats a cash grab of about $400 in profit after materials and labor is factored in. Trust me on that. The first 3 manifolds I bought were for under $300. (that was my price, though) And with the one I tested, even with a dinky 264* cam retarded 4*, I gained 21whp @ 6000rpms over the stock MKIII manifold. That's huge. Even on a bone stock motor, the older HKK manifolds were seeing a 10-12whp gain on the top end.


 I suppose 700 is a good chunk of change. I just think that relatively, it's cheap, considering all the $ involved in getting a 2.0 "fast" is pretty astronomical without boost or Nitrous. 

A 264* cam? Who makes that? Is it some sort of hybrid between TT's 260* and 266*?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Story goes like this... 

Back in 2002, Eurospec Sport sold a 262* and a friend had it in his Jetta. It was a very OBDII-friendly cam. So I finally ordered one. But what I received was this fat lobed cam that idled like a farm tractor. Measured out the lift, and it was .442"/.443". Called up the distributor I bought it from, and they sent me out another cam, which, again, wasn't the 262*. It had a lift of .440", and after some research, I figured out that it was a stock VW 268* the Brazilian market cars got. Didn't like how it ran compared to the first cam they sent, so I pulled the 268 and put the first one back in. After some more research, I figured out it was the ESS 264* grind. (only cam on their parts list with those exact lifts.) I guess ESS only made so many 262*'s, then started making the 264's. Regardless, it was a better cam than the 268* was, IMHO. Lobes had a much more aggressive ramp and more lift than the 268*. It loped _hard_ at 900rpms. Excellent low end power too. Sold that to some rally driver years back. Also never sent back that 268* and sold that off too. lol. Oh, and FYI, that Brazilian OE cam was the very cam TT based their 268* off of.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Story goes like this...
> 
> Back in 2002, Eurospec Sport sold a 262* and a friend had it in his Jetta. It was a very OBDII-friendly cam. So I finally ordered one. But what I received was this fat lobed cam that idled like a farm tractor. Measured out the lift, and it was .442"/.443". Called up the distributor I bought it from, and they sent me out another cam, which, again, wasn't the 262*. It had a lift of .440", and after some research, I figured out that it was a stock VW 268* the Brazilian market cars got. Didn't like how it ran compared to the first cam they sent, so I pulled the 268 and put the first one back in. After some more research, I figured out it was the ESS 264* grind. (only cam on their parts list with those exact lifts.) I guess ESS only made so many 262*'s, then started making the 264's. Regardless, it was a better cam than the 268* was, IMHO. Lobes had a much more aggressive ramp and more lift than the 268*. It loped _hard_ at 900rpms. Excellent low end power too. Sold that to some rally driver years back. Also never sent back that 268* and sold that off too. lol. Oh, and FYI, that Brazilian OE cam was the very cam TT based their 268* off of.


 Jeez. Sounds like they couldn't get their stuff together but it actually worked out for you. Sounds like the 264* is a really good cam. I wonder if anyone still makes it. I've seen 262*s for sale on NGP, along with 272*s and whatnot.. I had to get my 276* boost cam from them. 

I know that the TT 268* is a high performance cam from VW, I didn't know Brazilian cars got them, though. I thought it was a Euro GTI thing. In my experience the 268* is a really nice cam for mid to high end. 

Thanks for the info :thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

*Thanks for your input, guys. It helps ALOT.*

Travis, do you happen to know anything about KENT cams? I looked them up, and on NGP they have a 260* with 440" of lift, and a 266* with 440" of lift, along with plenty more. They sound like they're pretty decent.. I'm putting together the SRI section, too, as well as adding some more cams to the cam section. I really appreciate everyone's input. It really helps. 

~Colm 

PS: I'm trying to finish my freaking 8v, guys. 

Got the cam installed, finally.. I'm getting my intercooler, mk4 manifold, and charge piping powder coated flat black for the whole "stealth" look. I'm also painting all of the hose clamps, and some little things. I want this to look as factory as possible. 

I'm about 3/4 of the way done! When I get my parts back from the paint shop it should be done engine-wise. I'm changing my suspension from Ultra Lows to Koni Yellows with Neuspeed Race springs, for track-ability. Then I am going to do a ton of body work. Sleepy boser, shaved trunk, and more. The interior is already pretty much done. I have GLX leathers.. If I decide to upgrade, I'll go with Recaro SR7's, probably. I've been dailying my VR6 Golf and I love the power (hard to believe my 8v is going to be faster!!), but the MPG is killing me and I bottom out alot.. (construction!) 

I'm sort of upset that my wife made me sell my 67' 331 stroker fastback to build this car, but.. hey, I want a fast 8v track car. And, well, I'm buying my track coupe back.. She's good to me. I'm just a baby.  I made one hell of a profit from building that mustang.. It's just a shame the guy who bought it is making it into a "eleanor" clone, like the other 99% of 67-68 fastbacks. :banghead:


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## stlgolf3 (May 1, 2012)

Hey hurt I was looking at that header that raceland makds n it says that it already deletes the cat if that is so then I dont need the 42dd pipe right, n I was also wondering how those black pacesetter headers work


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

stlgolf3 said:


> Hey hurt I was looking at that header that raceland makds n it says that it already deletes the cat if that is so then I dont need the 42dd pipe right, n I was also wondering how those black pacesetter headers work


 I guess it does, it must have a flange to delete the cat or extend the exhaust. The pacesetter header works the same way, it has a flange to bolt up to the stock cat or you can delete it. 

I've only run TT's header and OBX headers.. So I'm not exactly sure about it. But a header doesn't really do anything for an ABA. If you want to get a good exhaust set up, get a MK4 AEG exhaust manifold and get a TT 2.5" SS Downpipe, or a TT Race DP, and that'll take care of any flow issues. 

A cam should really come before a header.. For the 200 dollars you pay for a header, you can get a good cam instead. Hell, even a non-cam chip is more beneficial than a header.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> I guess it does, it must have a flange to delete the cat or extend the exhaust. The pacesetter header works the same way, it has a flange to bolt up to the stock cat or you can delete it.
> 
> I've only run TT's header and OBX headers.. So I'm not exactly sure about it. But a header doesn't really do anything for an ABA. If you want to get a good exhaust set up, get a MK4 AEG exhaust manifold and get a TT 2.5" SS Downpipe, or a TT Race DP, and that'll take care of any flow issues.
> 
> A cam should really come before a header.. For the 200 dollars you pay for a header, you can get a good cam instead. Hell, even a non-cam chip is more beneficial than a header.


 header gives you a very few extra ponies, but it is much lighter, I only swapped an obx header in cuz my stock exhaust mani was falling apart. 
It actually feels like I gained some midrange with it! O but then again I also swapped in a 42DD high flow cat...  

and saved 12 pounds 

also just swapped in a lightweight battery yesterday, saved 15 pounds...


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## stlgolf3 (May 1, 2012)

Only reason I need the new header because my stock one is leaking n can upost links of the ones ur suggesting


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

go on ebay, and its obx jetta/golf header either 93-98 or 85-98 cuz the mk2/3 headers are the same, mk1 header wont fit tho...


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## OC80 (Aug 9, 2010)

Colm don't delete it! your being a baby. Things dont go your way and you cry about it and this helps people so dont delete it. If you need help go to the dr you are such a drama queen jimmy is all worked up about this. cut it out!


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

For the supercharger section, you can also add Z-Engineering and it's successor, the RSC by Ruf-Kompressoren. I don't think anyone has ran the RSC on an ABA in the states yet. It costs around $2500 new with bracket and is supposedly a 70-100hp increase: 
http://www.ruf-kompressoren.com/wb/pages/en/products/rsc-supercharger.php 

Dynos of the Z-Engineering on stock engine: 

















The Z-Engineering kits originally came with the ZR1 charger, which they used both on 2.0 and VR6, just a different bracket setup. It was later upgraded to the ZR2 model that used a cogged setup instead. Original ZR1 chargers that were replaced or repaired under warranty were upgraded to the cogged setup as well. When VF-engineering bought Z-Engineering out or whatever, they had a charger exchange program also. 

New these ran close to $3k I think. They go anywhere from $600+ these days. I've seen some try selling damaged used ones for over $2k on rarity, but I picked up two complete kits with a bunch of extra parts for just under $2k total. They run around 5-8psi with no upgrades.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> For the supercharger section, you can also add Z-Engineering and it's successor, the RSC by Ruf-Kompressoren. I don't think anyone has ran the RSC on an ABA in the states yet. It costs around $2500 new with bracket and is supposedly a 70-100hp increase:
> http://www.ruf-kompressoren.com/wb/pages/en/products/rsc-supercharger.php
> 
> Dynos of the Z-Engineering on stock engine:
> ...


 Aren't these centrifugal? I've never really looked at these, but I've seen VR6's run them.


----------



## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Hurt said:


> Aren't these centrifugal? I've never really looked at these, but I've seen VR6's run them.


 Yes, they are just like the Vortech and VF chargers except you don't need to run an oil line as it's self-contained. :thumbup: On the plus side there is plenty of space to run an SRI.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

zero. said:


> Yes, they are just like the Vortech and VF chargers except you don't need to run an oil line as it's self-contained. :thumbup: On the plus side there is plenty of space to run an SRI.


 yeh those are sick, I would love to pick up one of those, BTW did you get yr setup together yet?? 

on another note here's a pic of my heatshield and new battery


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> yeh those are sick, I would love to pick up one of those, BTW did you get yr setup together yet??
> 
> on another note here's a pic of my heatshield and new battery
> 
> ...


----------



## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

vacuumnoise said:


> yeh those are sick, I would love to pick up one of those, BTW did you get yr setup together yet??


I got just the charger on a couple of weeks ago. Running a TT chip that came with one of the kits. Everything is stock except for 2.25" magnaflow exhaust and it pulls about the same as my Mk2 with stock VR6. I have a United Motorsports chip tuned for it with 30lb injectors too that I was going to try. I just took the SRI off my old car and debating on putting on with charger. I was going to swap the head at some point with my old one when I do the timing belt, but need it looked over and a different cam for it first. I also have to relocate the battery and get some charger piping/top mount intercooler before I can do the SRI.

I was thinking about selling both of the z-engineering kits and getting the RSC. One of their distributors said the z-engineering brackets would fit on it, but I don't know if that's 100% true. I know they have brackets for a VR6.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> I got just the charger on a couple of weeks ago. Running a TT chip that came with one of the kits. Everything is stock except for 2.25" magnaflow exhaust and it pulls about the same as my Mk2 with stock VR6. I have a United Motorsports chip tuned for it with 30lb injectors too that I was going to try. I just took the SRI off my old car and debating on putting on with charger. I was going to swap the head at some point with my old one when I do the timing belt, but need it looked over and a different cam for it first. I also have to relocate the battery and get some charger piping/top mount intercooler before I can do the SRI.


How much peak boost are you running? I've never really had a fast car with a centrifugal set up.. Well, G60's, but they're not technically a centrifugal charger.

I think they're kind of odd because they build boost so slow compared to a lysholm.. If you can get peak PSI at idle with a lysholm why bother with a centrifugal style supercharger? I'm ignorant to the whole Centrifugal thing. Can you give me an idea? Thanks bud. :wave:


----------



## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Hurt said:


> How much peak boost are you running?


I haven't pushed it too hard cause it's an automatic.  2nd and 3rd gear pulls I have peaked around 7psi. They are basically like turbos with a turbine but powered by crank instead of exhaust. It produces little to no boost until you get on it or during WOT. 

I don't know a whole lot about the design or flow of them. I think some guy took one apart and had pics of it for a rebuild awhile back on here. I mainly just bought them so I can run an SRI if I want and for spare parts. Centrifugal are said to be the most efficient and run the coolest. It's definitely not as noisy as a lysholm and delivers around the same power as the stage 1 BBM kit. Based on the dynos floating around out there, the z-engineering produces more torque and thats with stock injectors too I think. Can run other pulleys, drop compression, and run intercooler for more boost just like different staged BBM kits.


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## etta gli (Sep 5, 2011)

zero. said:


> You will never see 140hp on an 8v with only $1500. With all the mods you listed, you'd be lucky to break 120hp. Travis (tdogg74) barely broke 140hp with all your standard bolt-ons, serious head work, and custom SRI. The TT race header blows too and will rot out in a couple of years. Pointless without headwork too. Good info otherwise.


TT made 120whp a stock motor with stock manifolds, race downpipe, 2.25 exhaust, and a cam (268) + chip 

With a true CAI, AEG intake, 276 cam (no excessive retarding, that's cheating!), and a header, I don't see why that wouldn't make AT LEAST 130.



I have an aba in my mk1 and have pretty much worked out my best options. 
-Get a 4K with a diesel 5th
-Get a cam and chip so that it doesn't run like **** below 2 grand and above 4 grand
-*maybe* get a aeg intake, since they're ~$200 with all accessories and aren't exactly going to go bad. 

At the end of the day, you're better off adding some valves. With the money you drop into mods you might as well go 16V, 9.2CR with 9a pistons, deck the block, or do some fancy piston work if your wallet allows. I've got a couple of buddies running high compression aba16Vs, and they run around VRs. 

Two identically weighted cars, aba with diesel gears 10.8:1 CR, raceland header, and a modified exhaust cam for the intake. The other a dealer swapped VR with an exhaust and intake. The aba walked right by, and this was before head work, stroking, abf intake, and proper gears. 

I currently have a TT race downpipe into a 2.25 exhaust with a stock manifold. A 16v manifold bolts right up


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> I haven't pushed it too hard cause it's an automatic.  2nd and 3rd gear pulls I have peaked around 7psi. They are basically like turbos with a turbine but powered by crank instead of exhaust. It produces little to no boost until you get on it or during WOT.
> 
> I don't know a whole lot about the design or flow of them. I think some guy took one apart and had pics of it for a rebuild awhile back on here. I mainly just bought them so I can run an SRI if I want and for spare parts. Centrifugal are said to be the most efficient and run the coolest. It's definitely not as noisy as a lysholm and delivers around the same power as the stage 1 BBM kit. Based on the dynos floating around out there, the z-engineering produces more torque and thats with stock injectors too I think. Can run other pulleys, drop compression, and run intercooler for more boost just like different staged BBM kits.


Ahh. Thanks. I know they were like a turbo but belt driven, but don't they build boost kind of slow compared to a lysholm?


PS: I'll be out of town for a couple days. No Vortex for me..


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

etta gli said:


> TT made 120whp a stock motor with stock manifolds, race downpipe, 2.25 exhaust, and a cam (268) + chip












And what was it dyno'd at stock BEFORE all the bolt-on's? 103whp! That is literally 8-10whp higher than what it _really_ makes. Dynojets measure really high peak HP numbers. I pulled 135whp with a 276* cam and 143whp with a 288* on Eddy Current-based dynos. Clearly, had I rolled on a DYnojet, I would have _comfortably_ been in the 150's.







I love math.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Hurt said:


> Ahh. Thanks. I know they were like a turbo but belt driven, but don't they build boost kind of slow compared to a lysholm?


I can't compare cause I haven't driven or seen both. I've seen dyno pulls and people just driving around with a lysholm, but nothing with the boost gauge. They spin at like 36k RPM. In 2nd or 3rd gear I hit peak boost in a couple of seconds. It's not instantaneous. It basically keeps building boost the higher the RPMs and the faster you go.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

etta gli said:


> TT made 120whp a stock motor with stock manifolds, race downpipe, 2.25 exhaust, and a cam (268) + chip


And the cost just for parts is around $1k assuming they are new and exhaust isn't stainless...not going to get another 20whp with $500 unless you know someone that does work cheap, get all used parts, or some kinda deal. I still stand by what I said as it's realistic.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

zero. said:


> And the cost just for parts is around $1k assuming they are new and exhaust isn't stainless...not going to get another 20whp with $500 unless you know someone that does work cheap, get all used parts, or some kinda deal. I still stand by what I said as it's realistic.


Exactly, Parts alone for the cheapest aluminized exhaust, DP, chip and cam for an OBDI car is $775. 
-Then add shipping. 
-Then add $100 if you want a stainless exhaust with a good sounding muffler (Borla/Magnaflow)
-Then add $100 for a mandatory new set of lifters
-Then add another $20 or so on new gaskets you need to replace when you rip open the valve cover

There's your $1000 easy. 

And lets not forget if you're OBDII, because you can go on ahead and add another $198 for the valve spring upgrade you will need. 
Oh hey, while we got everything out, lets replace the valve stem seals. (be stupid not to, right?)
Oh and can't do the work yourself and have to have someone install either the exhaust or do the machine work? 

There's your $1500. 

All that for 15-20whp.


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Way to make a thread depressing guys. :laugh:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Takes a real lunatic to want to make one of these quick. Took me $3000+ to realize that.


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Must have been worth it in some sense. You're still here!

I wish i would have had some numbers to post up by now, but I'm having intermittant standalone problems that we've been having trouble chasing down. 

The car is stupid fun even though it's only making ~120whp per lack of ignition timing. Can't dial it in until it acts right.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

To be honest, I wish I still had it as a toy, but not as my DD. I wouldn't give up my 1.8t B5 for anything.
And 1997 just went OBD-exempt. I want to do a full-on big valve, big cam, SRI/header-catless-2.5" exhaust, on full stand-alone on a 2Y trans in a hollow MKIII shell. Just for fun. Some day...right after my 4 kids GTFO of my house and there is a Porsche sitting in the garage.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

100 shot, problem solved. 

Sent from my HERO200 using Tapatalk


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

911_fan said:


> Takes a real lunatic to want to make one of these quick. Took me $3000+ to realize that.


Same boat with my old ride. Never had it dynoed, but with all the bolt-ons, headwork, and your SRI, it still doesn't pull as hard as my stock 2.0 with z-engineering charger. I only paid around $600 for one of the complete kits too.


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## etta gli (Sep 5, 2011)

911_fan said:


> And what was it dyno'd at stock BEFORE all the bolt-on's? 103whp! That is literally 8-10whp higher than what it _really_ makes. Dynojets measure really high peak HP numbers. I pulled 135whp with a 276* cam and 143whp with a 288* on Eddy Current-based dynos. Clearly, had I rolled on a DYnojet, I would have _comfortably_ been in the 150's.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


yea you make a good point, VW quotes 17% loss at the drivetrain, it should make 95-96 stock. you're probably right about 140whp too 



zero. said:


> And the cost just for parts is around $1k assuming they are new and exhaust isn't stainless...not going to get another 20whp with $500 unless you know someone that does work cheap, get all used parts, or some kinda deal. I still stand by what I said as it's realistic.


now and again people come to their senses and sell off all their aba stuff. I've seen port and polished heads with big cams going for reasonable prices locally. You'd have to be clinically insane to buy all new parts for an 8v :screwy:

aeg intake -$200 for all gear
Raceland header -$250 shipped and delivered
tubing for exhaust and some ****ty high flow muffler ~$150
decking the block/head for higher CR $200 

That leaves $700 to waste on a head (assuming you can find one) that'll make as much as a stock 9a aba hybrid at 9.2:1 


I think it can be done, you just have to be determined and insane. Any aba owner that buys more than a cam and chip could find themselves in said categories. 


except colin. He is the almighty


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

911_fan said:


> Some day...right after my 4 kids GTFO of my house and there is a Porsche sitting in the garage.


I actually just f-ing lol'd. :laugh:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

etta gli said:


> yea you make a good point, VW quotes 17% loss at the drivetrain, it should make 95-96 stock. you're probably right about 140whp too


I always found that if you divided your measured WHP by .825, you get a _very_ accurate BHP number. (for manual trans only)



AJmustDIE said:


> I actually just f-ing lol'd. :laugh:


What's even funnier (or sadder, depending on how you look at it) is last September, I got the green light from the wife to buy a 911 this July. In October, my wife and I lost to calendar roulette, and baby #4 is due in July. 

I'm gonna be an old man before I can get anything fun now.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> I always found that if you divided your measured WHP by .825, you get a _very_ accurate BHP number. (for manual trans only)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


what year 911 are you looking for?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

vacuumnoise said:


> what year 911 *were* you looking for?


Ideally, a 88/89 for the rear 3-point seatbelt, but any 84-89 Targa would have done the job. I like the targa style as opposed to the coupe. (yea, I know :screwy
I would also go with a 964 as well if it was maintained well enough, had the right look to it, and was around $20k. They're out there for sure. 
But if I win the lottery, its gonna be a early 70's car with a 3.2/G50 swap. :heart:


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

^ I really like how TT tests their products. I've seen this dyno, and it's pretty impressive! It'd be cool if they sold the "A3 super bolt on" as a package. Like, exhaust, race DP, chip, cam, at a decent discounted rate. Sort of like Neuspeed's 'Power package'.



zero. said:


> In 2nd or 3rd gear I hit peak boost in a couple of seconds. It's not instantaneous. It basically keeps building boost the higher the RPMs and the faster you go.


Yeah, I knew they build boost the higher the RPM.. but that's the downfall, in my opinion. My lysholm will be at 18psi from 1k-7k, so I think it's more powerful. But the centrifugal charger will probably have a traction advantage.. it's just a matter of preference I suppose! 



911_fan said:


> Exactly, Parts alone for the cheapest aluminized exhaust, DP, chip and cam for an OBDI car is $775.
> -Then add shipping.
> -Then add $100 if you want a stainless exhaust with a good sounding muffler (Borla/Magnaflow)
> -Then add $100 for a mandatory new set of lifters
> ...


Don't tell me you've lost faith in this engine, Travis! ABA = one of my favorite engines ever.. It's such a reliable power-plant, and so good for DDing purposes!

A few weeks ago a certain someone pretty much told me I was stupid to "brag" about making 160"_pathetic!!_"WHP and that it's a "waste of money", and apparently "has been done long ago with alot less money". 

Bah.. People hate on the ABA but some people like to be unique. I personally care for a N/A 8v rather a FI for track use. Less parts, less hassle. Cooler oil, cooler coolant.. there's arguments to be made about that stuff, but.. yeah.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Oh, I haven't lost faith. Just disposable funds. I got nothing against the ABA lump. 

My 16yr old will be getting her license at some point; she will be driving a MKIII-something-or-other.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Oh, I haven't lost faith. Just disposable funds. I got nothing against the ABA lump.
> 
> My 16yr old will be getting her license at some point; she will be driving a MKIII-something-or-other.


Cabriooooo!


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Anyone have an OBX catback, or know anything about them? They're 2.25", stainless, and have a dual tip muffler.. and they're only 250 bucks! Here's a sound clip I found. Kind of too.. "poppy" for my taste, but, hey.. it's stainless and cheap.








This _Custom_ set up sounds amazing, IMO. It's a 2.25" header back through a Thrush glass pack, then into 2.5" mandrel bends and into a Hooker Aero chamber muffler. It's my favorite sounding MK3 exhaust, it's nice and deep. 






My 2.0's exhaust is really quiet and deep, but I run a huge resonator and 2 magnaflow mufflers


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

That first video sounds like complete dog ****.


€


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

He thought his car was fast. :laugh:


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

my exhaust made wierd noises...


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> That first video sounds like complete dog ****.
> 
> 
> €


Yeah, that's what I think. I just think $250 for a stainless exhaust is a good deal.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

TTT for the forum. 

...Might make a F&F Jetta replica.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Finished my S/C build.  It's way too fast.. I spin into 3rd. Actually topped it out at 140+. Very very happy.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Finished my S/C build.  It's way too fast.. I spin into 3rd. Actually topped it out at 140+. Very very happy.


 vidz or it didnt happen :laugh:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> vidz or it didnt happen :laugh:


I'm trying to set up a *legal* 0- top speed run on an airstrip or maybe a mile long track.. Until then, I only have a couple 0-60's. I need a WOT box.. My launches are horrible. I'm spinning on 195/50's. I want wider tires, like 225's. I love my Phone Dials, though! :banghead:


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

I don't care about the law, I want videos.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

AJmustDIE said:


> I don't care about the law, I want videos.


:laugh:

One more ticket and I lose my license. So.. I'm gonna play by the rules. 

I'm also having Idle issues.. When I start the car, it revs to 3k, revs to about 3200, goes to 2k, revs up to about 2200, and then goes to about 1400. And it's horribly annoying. It's hard to shift fast without burning the clutch. :banghead:

It's a fast car, though I spin too much. My friend has a stage 1 Kinetic VR-T and we're neck and neck until I hit 4th, then I pull, easy. (private road). So I'm thinking I'm over my goal of 250WHP. 

I'm also looking into C2's Stage 2 turbo tune. I've heard it's better than the BBM tune, but I'm not so sure..


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

You broke it to let us know it was too fast!


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Hurt said:


> topped it out at 140+.


That's crazy. I'd be afraid of something breaking going that fast and I already need a new serpentine tensioner pulley after only running my charger a couple weeks. I need new wheels/tires and an alignment too.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

WE NEED VIDS!!!

Don't be lazy, if I have video pulls of my 260 cam... u can get some supercharger pulls up!!!


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> That's crazy. I'd be afraid of something breaking going that fast and I already need a new serpentine tensioner pulley after only running my charger a couple weeks. I need new wheels/tires and an alignment too.


It's especially scary with the H&R's. I'm pretty low, but it doesn't help me feel more.. for lack of a better word, connected, to the road.

According to a boost gauge, it's running about 20 PSI and floating back to around 18 at 7200RPM. Also got a new TB, solved idling issues. I am considering a bigger exhaust, too. Maybe 3" OD.I have a 2.5" System with a resonator and 2 mufflers. I can't really hear the exhaust over the blower, but I drive alot so I'm not looking to get "too loud" tickets.. 3" system with a couple "Bullet" style mufflers should help with some more power and keep it streetably quiet.I'm also looking into buying a CRY02 intercooler sprayer kit, BFI has them on clearance so why not? 

On a funny note, I was driving "spirited" down a road from a green light, and came to a red light. The guy in the other lane stopped next to me a while later, I sort of blew them all off at the light. He proceeds to say "Hey, you have a loose belt." I told him I didn't, and he was just insisting that "A belt is loose, I can hear it, boy!" I told him it was supercharged. And he said "VW didn't make 2.0 SC's, only turbos!"


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## OC80 (Aug 9, 2010)

Colm your inbox is full! I need you to put the cam in my GTi please. I don't know how. I got a 268 degree because tttuning says it's good for OBD1 engines

I saw your GT at jj's leaving! it sounds super. 
Take me for a ride sometime?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Colm, you need to come up to My place some weekend for some beers & BBQ. Need to be around a builtABA again. It's been too long.


€


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

OC80 said:


> Colm your inbox is full! I need you to put the cam in my GTi please. I don't know how. I got a 268 degree because tttuning says it's good for OBD1 engines
> 
> I saw your GT at jj's leaving! it sounds super.
> Take me for a ride sometime?


I'll help you put the cam in, make sure you order (8) lifters and a valve cover gasket, a cam seal gasket, and a intake manifold gasket. Let me know when the stuff comes.. Get a chip, too, I can have that put in. TT sells them.



911_fan said:


> Colm, you need to come up to My place some weekend for some beers & BBQ. Need to be around a builtABA again. It's been too long.
> 
> 
> €


That'd be awesome! :beer: 



I just found out Neuspeed sells S/C's brand new for the MK4 1999.5-2001 8v engines. I don't think there is any real difference between the MK4 and MK3 belt set up, so I don't know why they aren't in the MK3 section too..


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## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

The upper and lower intake manifold bolts up differently.
On the MK3, there is 1 top bolt, and 4 bottom.
On the MK4, there is 2 top bolts, and 3 bottom.
But all I hear you need to do to run a MK4 Neuspeed S/C on a MK3 is get a MK4 lower intake.
They bolt right up with no problems.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Alingarhs said:


> The upper and lower intake manifold bolts up differently.
> On the MK3, there is 1 top bolt, and 4 bottom.
> On the MK4, there is 2 top bolts, and 3 bottom.
> But all I hear you need to do to run a MK4 Neuspeed S/C on a MK3 is get a MK4 lower intake.
> They bolt right up with no problems.


Ah, that's what I thought. Thanks for the clarification! :beer:


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

yeh and run a different chip, but iv herd the NS chip is pretty poor anyhow...


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> yeh and run a different chip, but iv herd the NS chip is pretty poor anyhow...


Yeah, from what I've read Neuspeed uses their generic "P-CHIP" for everything, including the S/C kit. For the Neuspeed charger, I recommend buying 30lb injectors, the 70mm maf, and the C2 software. More power. Better tune over all. :thumbup:

Trying to get wider tires for my 8v. The 195/50/15's I run are spinning like crazy until 3rd gear. I may look into some 16x8 rims (BBS RS or enkei 92's).. I should be able to fit 225's on those, right? Anyone have any ideas? I already have LSD and I'm spinning like crazy. I suppose the wider tires will help. I wish I could run a boost by speed function like AEM's EMS offers, but.. I'm not too good at wiring, and I think that's a turbo only thing.


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## OC80 (Aug 9, 2010)

Colm I got all the gaskets and a T belt kit! It will all be here tomorrow, so if you can help that will be great. Your phone is off so i guess you're busy!

If you want 16" x8" get some of those snowflake replicas!!


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Yeah, from what I've read Neuspeed uses their generic "P-CHIP" for everything, including the S/C kit. For the Neuspeed charger, I recommend buying 30lb injectors, the 70mm maf, and the C2 software. More power. Better tune over all. :thumbup:
> 
> Trying to get wider tires for my 8v. The 195/50/15's I run are spinning like crazy until 3rd gear. I may look into some 16x8 rims (BBS RS or enkei 92's).. I should be able to fit 225's on those, right? Anyone have any ideas? I already have LSD and I'm spinning like crazy. I suppose the wider tires will help. I wish I could run a boost by speed function like AEM's EMS offers, but.. I'm not too good at wiring, and I think that's a turbo only thing.


are you sure? Can I run the NS SC with my BFI stg2 chip?


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

I assumed the PSI would affect it... like affect the vacuum pressure? so the chip was designed to handle that, at least thats how it is on Hondas, _but you also run check valves on those... _


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> I assumed the PSI would affect it... like affect the vacuum pressure? so the chip was designed to handle that, at least thats how it is on Hondas, _but you also run check valves on those... _


 I'm pretty sure Neuspeed uses their P-chip for everything. :screwy:


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

On a stock MKIV. Same difference. 

Stoic till 4700rpms. No thanks.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

vacuumnoise said:


> are you sure? Can I run the NS SC with my BFI stg2 chip?


 To be honest, I bet the AFR wouldnt be half bad....but the ignition is WAY to hot.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> To be honest, I bet the AFR wouldnt be half bad....but the ignition is WAY to hot.


 

Octane Booster


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

More like a head gasket spacer and copious amounts of water/meth injection! lol


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> More like a head gasket spacer and copious amounts of water/meth injection! lol


 yeh all for what a few extra horses?


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I think the Neuspeed charger is great. It's just a shame you have to hack it up to get any sort of intercooler to work. They run REALLY good on C2's boost chip with 30# injectors and a big MAF (70mm?). 

A friend has one in his MK1 SportTruck. I'm pretty sure he runs an Autotech 260/256 cam, and that's about all for extras (beside the c2 tune), but it puts down around 150 or 155whp (so he claims..). It's fast, but hell, it's a MK1. They weigh next to nothing.. With the 4y trans he uses the thing is a rocket. :snowcool:


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> I think the Neuspeed charger is great. It's just a shame you have to hack it up to get any sort of intercooler to work. They run REALLY good on C2's boost chip with 30# injectors and a big MAF (70mm?).
> 
> A friend has one in his MK1 SportTruck. I'm pretty sure he runs an Autotech 260/256 cam, and that's about all for extras (beside the c2 tune), but it puts down around 150 or 155whp (so he claims..). It's fast, but hell, it's a MK1. They weigh next to nothing.. With the 4y trans he uses the thing is a rocket. :snowcool:


 
sick, yeh still not sure what Im going to do, it always depends so much on $$$, but a NS SC and the C2 software wtih a 268 cam is my plan... 

but if Im going to stay NA, im going to build a real ****ing head for it... but like I stated $$$


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

so far Ive shaved off some weight by running a header and a lightweight battery, about 27 pounds so far, the 42dd hi flow is probably lighter than the stock cat too... some lightweight wheels and AC delete down the line!


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> so far Ive shaved off some weight by running a header and a lightweight battery, about 27 pounds so far, the 42dd hi flow is probably lighter than the stock cat too... some lightweight wheels and AC delete down the line!


 Shaving weight off a MK3 is rootbeer's specialty, I'd ask him for advice about the weight part of things. 

The MK3 Jetta is pretty light for what it is. 4 doors, 5 passengers (comfortably!) A/C, power everything and a HUGE trunk for ~2700 lbs? Not bad at all! 

Personally, I don't bother with the weight aspects of MK3's. I mean.. sure, if it was my track car I'd look into it. But for a daily? Nah.. If anything, I'm adding weight with all my suspension/looks nonsense.. :wave:


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Shaving weight off a MK3 is rootbeer's specialty, I'd ask him for advice about the weight part of things.
> 
> The MK3 Jetta is pretty light for what it is. 4 doors, 5 passengers (comfortably!) A/C, power everything and a HUGE trunk for ~2700 lbs? Not bad at all!
> 
> Personally, I don't bother with the weight aspects of MK3's. I mean.. sure, if it was my track car I'd look into it. But for a daily? Nah.. If anything, I'm adding weight with all my suspension/looks nonsense.. :wave:


 true, yeh I believe the 97 GT Jetta curb weight is 2,650 

Well I haven't pulled the AC yet, but considering how it doesn't work very well...


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> true, yeh I believe the 97 GT Jetta curb weight is 2,650
> 
> Well I haven't pulled the AC yet, but considering how it doesn't work very well...


 
2650 sounds about right, but the GT has those heavy 4 spoke star wheels (not flyers), don't they? Ugh. And they usually didn't come with A/C, I think the GT was sort of between the GL and GLS in trim.. Had a spoiler, side skirts, different fabric seats, etc.. 

My A/C works amazingly well on my daily.. Ice cold. 

I've only ran into a handful of MK3's that have a bad A/C system.. VW did a good job designing it, I think.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> 2650 sounds about right, but the GT has those heavy 4 spoke star wheels (not flyers), don't they? Ugh. And they usually didn't come with A/C, I think the GT was sort of between the GL and GLS in trim.. Had a spoiler, side skirts, different fabric seats, etc..
> 
> My A/C works amazingly well on my daily.. Ice cold.
> 
> I've only ran into a handful of MK3's that have a bad A/C system.. VW did a good job designing it, I think.


 pretty sure the GT has AC, mine does at least, it has sport seats, sideskirts (Oh I removed those too!), spoiler, roll down windows, the antenna is mounted on the roof like an RC car.... etc. :heart:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> pretty sure the GT has AC, mine does at least, it has sport seats, sideskirts (Oh I removed those too!), spoiler, roll down windows, the antenna is mounted on the roof like an RC car.... etc. :heart:


 I talked to an old (he's 60) friend who worked in VW dealers in the 1990's. 

He said "The GT is a trim package, just a bogus "sport" jetta. Some additional special features.. are Fog lights, Silver cluster with orange needles"party" seats (or rare leather GT seats!), GLX tails, alloy rims, rear decklid spoiler, side skirts from a GTI/GLX, certain paint colors only available on the GT, but the engine/suspension is all the same as a GL (some had 4 wheel disk brakes though!) A/C was optional, and so was ABS. Most didn't have sunroofs. Some had 6 cd changers." 

:thumbup: 

GT is my favorite trim level next to late Wolfsburg/K2 (for a 2.0, I mean)


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## 2.slowduo (Sep 17, 2008)

In all reality the 4cyl gti is just a bogus golf sport too 

Seats ,shifter,fogs,tails. But no real performance advantage over a golf gl 
Probably heavier due to the sunroof and premium audio


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> I talked to an old (he's 60) friend who worked in VW dealers in the 1990's.
> 
> He said "The GT is a trim package, just a bogus "sport" jetta. Some additional special features.. are Fog lights, Silver cluster with orange needles"party" seats (or rare leather GT seats!), GLX tails, alloy rims, rear decklid spoiler, side skirts from a GTI/GLX, certain paint colors only available on the GT, but the engine/suspension is all the same as a GL (some had 4 wheel disk brakes though!) A/C was optional, and so was ABS. Most didn't have sunroofs. Some had 6 cd changers."
> 
> ...


 yeh, I hear you man, i mainly sought out a GT due to roll down windows, fog lights, and the sport seats... mine never had the sideskirts on there, just the attachers; which I removed and sold off... :thumbup: 

and yeh they all have the same underpowered slightly torquey 2.0, which is the whole point of this thread (how to BEEF it up!) :laugh: obviously there are differences with the obd1 vs obd2 ABA's but at this point I hope we all know about that!


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> yeh, I hear you man, i mainly sought out a GT due to roll down windows, fog lights, and the sport seats... mine never had the sideskirts on there, just the attachers; which I removed and sold off... :thumbup:
> 
> and yeh they all have the same underpowered slightly torquey 2.0, which is the whole point of this thread (how to BEEF it up!) :laugh: obviously there are differences with the obd1 vs obd2 ABA's but at this point I hope we all know about that!


 Yeah, I only got my GT because it was given to me as part of a trade for my old Supra.  
I have all power windows, though.. The weight isn't really much of a difference, believe it or not! 

The rare Brazilian/German cars that came stock with the 268* 440" lift cam are actually much faster than the American cars. The Stock 0-60 of a Jetta/Golf is around 8.5-10 seconds here.. But I found a video of a all stock 2.0 8v GTI doing 0-100km/h in 7 seconds.. I'll try to find it. Ah, here it is!


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Golf/Jettas came stock with a 268? That's news to me.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Golf/Jettas came stock with a 268? That's news to me.


 Yeah, I guess that's where TT gets their 268* cam.. VW sells them, I guess. I'm trying to find the article that says the cam specs of the certain cars that had them overseas. I'm pretty sure it was GTI's and higher end models with the 2.0 (not crossflow head).


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

The 268 was put in the South American Sport model Foxes. Helped raise the power from the 1.6L from 86hp to 101hp.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> The 268 was put in the South American Sport model Foxes. Helped raise the power from the 1.6L from 86hp to 101hp.


 Wow, really? That's a huge jump for such a tiny engine. The stock cam must have been tiny.. That must have been a fun Fox. North America got ripped off. We never got any of the "good" models.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Not true. The fox is a friggin sleeper. We got them, but only the 86hp cars. But simply replacing the manifold to dp gasket with one from an Audi bubble block, it opens up the exhaust. The gasket chokes the exhaust by like a half inch. Those cars can take aba's and 16v's like a champ. 


€


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Yeah, I only got my GT because it was given to me as part of a trade for my old Supra.
> I have all power windows, though.. The weight isn't really much of a difference, believe it or not!
> 
> The rare Brazilian/German cars that came stock with the 268* 440" lift cam are actually much faster than the American cars. The Stock 0-60 of a Jetta/Golf is around 8.5-10 seconds here.. But I found a video of a all stock 2.0 8v GTI doing 0-100km/h in 7 seconds.. I'll try to find it. Ah, here it is!


 it goes good, we need more videos like this, even the vids i took with my 260 cam i gotta stabilize the camera more...


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

heres my old runs, this is before the header... so just tt 260 cam and exhaust and BFI stg2 chip


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Not true. The fox is a friggin sleeper. We got them, but only the 86hp cars. But simply replacing the manifold to dp gasket with one from an Audi bubble block, it opens up the exhaust. The gasket chokes the exhaust by like a half inch. Those cars can take aba's and 16v's like a champ.
> 
> 
> €


 Oh, I know we got them. Just got screwed on the model line up and didn't get any really special ones. My friend had a ABA swap. He said finding exhaust that was bigger than 2" OD is tough! I guess the stock size is like 1.75 or smaller.  And not gasket matching is a problematic situation sometimes, I guess. Maybe they had to take it easy on the trans because it is such a weird set up? I'm not sure.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

not very good in-cars, I'm afraid.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Your idle is pretty quiet in that first vid...what cam were you running then?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

It only seemed quiet because it was a resonated TT/Borla exhaust. The SRI noise messed with the camera mic and sorta drowned out the lower noise levels. (the video was to record the intake noise anyways, not show 0-60 speeds) I think I was running the ESS 264* back then on a stock OBDII head. TT chip. 1st or 2nd HKK SRI. This is what the exhaust was at the time (cold start)...


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> not very good in-cars, I'm afraid.


 very nice T, the SRI always sounds sooo good


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

here's two of my favs, not in a mk3 tho... 





 



 _mk1 caddy with ABA 288﻿ stk cam and vernier puley, wildcat 4-2-1 branch 57mm freeflow exhaust, FFZ trans..._


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

^That caddy is slow for a 288* cam.. I mean, REAAAAAAALLY slow. He's winding it out and it's barely going anywhere.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> ^That caddy is slow for a 288* cam.. I mean, REAAAAAAALLY slow. He's winding it out and it's barely going anywhere.


 maybe bad tune, but it sounds mean... 

or maybe he just has a bed of cargo


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> maybe bad tune, but it sounds mean...
> 
> or maybe he just has a bed of cargo


 But it's a MK1. ~1000lbs lighter than a MK3, and my 8v would beat it if I shifted at 5k every gear. (before the lysholm went on, of course). 

I should really add a transmission section. If anyone wants to collaborate with me, I'd appreciate it. 

I know my stuff about the 020's and some 02a's (I can always learn more, though!), but I don't know much about automatics. My wife's old golf had a 260* and then a 270* cam and a TT custom chip for the automatic.. and the trans was good.. I think it may have been almost as fast as a 5 speed car with the same mods. The powerband is right where it shifts, and it stays in the powerband almost every shift. It was awesome to see the automatic wait til 6500 RPM to shift instead of 5500 like stock! It shifts faster than the average 5 speed, too.. Maybe they're under-rated. I really love my friends MK6 GTI DSG and how it shifts at 7k (redline is like 6.4k) in auto mode. It's great.. Automatics aren't too bad now a days.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

But a DSG isn't an automatic.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

AJmustDIE said:


> But a DSG isn't an automatic.


 It doesn't have a clutch pedal.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

but it has a clutch(es)


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

For the 020, just link BrokeVW's site for reference. There is nothing on that site you could top.


€


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> For the 020, just link BrokeVW's site for reference. There is nothing on that site you could top.
> 
> 
> €


 I found a good list on trans and their ratios here: 

http://www.techtonicstuning.com/TransRatios.html


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

AJmustDIE said:


> but it has a clutch(es)


 Yes, I suppose it is technically an "automated clutch manual gearbox" or something like that. But to me, if the car shifts on its' own and doesn't have a clutch pedal, it's an automatic. I know technically it's wrong, but it's just how I refer to them.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Bolted on a set of 205/40/16's on my car today.. No traction... I need to get a good set of tires/rims. I'm thinking 16x8 if I can pull it off. I'm not sure about tire sizes, though..


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## CasuallyWreckless (Aug 27, 2007)

Mr. Hurt you seem pretty knowledgeable about these motors I'm having probs with an aeg code any input? 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5723608-Aeg-guru-s-need-your-opinion


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

sweetrocco420 said:


> Mr. Hurt you seem pretty knowledgeable about these motors I'm having probs with an aeg code any input?
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5723608-Aeg-guru-s-need-your-opinion


 My name is Colm, not Mr. :wave: 

. I don't really know much about the AEG's, to be honest, but I put my thoughts in there.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Anyone run a 268*/260* TT cam without FI? I was looking for some reviews on it.. Since my 2.0 S/C isn't really "daily" material anymore, I bought a MK2 Jetta coupe and I spent the weekend putting an ABA in it. I'm going to daily this car, so I'd like as much torque as possible, and good MPG (I'm getting 25 or so..) Anyone got any ideas for mods? Right now I'm thinking: 

MK4 intake manifold swap (more tq than the MK3 manifold) 
260 or 268/260 cam advanced a little for more low end tq (obd2 engine, don't want to put in HD springs..) 
MK4 exhaust manifold 
TT 2.5" DP 
Magnaflow highflow cat 
2.5" exhaust 
C2 software 

So, it's just a basic daily driver build. It has a 4y trans, so.. I'll probably be swapping out in the future for a eurospec 8v trans. "The MPG saver" one. Anyone's input is appreciated. 

~Colm


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

I did. It was the cam I was running before the car-b-que. 

Cam is a fun little cam, but not as good as the 266 or the 270. Same low end pick-up, but top end falls flat after 5000. Not like it does on the stock cam, but you can tell when it's "done". Not as much lift, smaller exhaust, and narrow centerlines make it a decent low-mid upgrade. And, of course, it's OBDII/single spring compliant. 

Not worth purchasing new for N/A. If you can find a used one for cheap (I got mine for $60 because the seller didn't know what they had) then it's a good upgrade. But for $200 new, there are tons of better options.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Anyone run a 268*/260* TT cam without FI? I was looking for some reviews on it.. Since my 2.0 S/C isn't really "daily" material anymore, I bought a MK2 Jetta coupe and I spent the weekend putting an ABA in it. I'm going to daily this car, so I'd like as much torque as possible, and good MPG (I'm getting 25 or so..) Anyone got any ideas for mods? Right now I'm thinking:
> 
> MK4 intake manifold swap (more tq than the MK3 manifold)
> 260 or 268/260 cam advanced a little for more low end tq (obd2 engine, don't want to put in HD springs..)
> ...


 I have a 260 cam and_ it is a way too mild cam_, it is an improvement over the stock cam, its sweet spot is 5200-6200rpm, but it is *very subtle*; the asymmetrical 268/260 cam I hear is better and I kinda wished I had gone with that especially since I want to install a NS SC. 

Because I like you don't want to upgrade the springs, but I've been thinking lately I might as well just bite the bullet... 


I wouldnt bother with the mk4 ex. manifold, just get an OBX or Raceland header as it will be lighter and really isnt that much money, maybe if you can get the mk4 mani real cheap... 

However the mk4 AEG intake manifold is def an improvement, but a SRI would be a better option, scope out the classifieds...


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

vacuumnoise said:


> I wouldnt bother with the mk4 ex. manifold, just get an OBX or Raceland header as it will be lighter and really isnt that much money, maybe if you can get the mk4 mani real cheap...


 I found a slightly cracked AEG exhaust mani for 17$ shipped  

for 50$ I had it welded up so it would never separate at the brazzed sections or whatever you call it and blasted clean and ported/gasket matched. 

:thumbup:


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Jay-Bee said:


> I found a slightly cracked AEG exhaust mani for 17$ shipped
> 
> for 50$ I had it welded up so it would never separate at the brazzed sections or whatever you call it and blasted clean and ported/gasket matched.
> 
> :thumbup:


 :thumbup: 

o also, that sweet spot I spoke of earlier could be a result of my BFI stg.2 chip... but mid range is good with my current setup, but up top I'm def craving more...


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> I did. It was the cam I was running before the car-b-que.
> 
> Cam is a fun little cam, but not as good as the 266 or the 270. Same low end pick-up, but top end falls flat after 5000. Not like it does on the stock cam, but you can tell when it's "done". Not as much lift, smaller exhaust, and narrow centerlines make it a decent low-mid upgrade. And, of course, it's OBDII/single spring compliant.
> 
> Not worth purchasing new for N/A. If you can find a used one for cheap (I got mine for $60 because the seller didn't know what they had) then it's a good upgrade. But for $200 new, there are tons of better options.


 Yeah, I'm not really that worried about over 5k RPM. I only bought the car for daily driving, I can't drive my GT anymore without spinning into 3rd gear like a kid that just got his license  

Thanks for the info. I'll probably go with the 268/260 unless I decide to swap on a OBD1 head, in that case I'll put in a AutoTech 270*. 

Sorry about the CBQ.  :banghead: 





vacuumnoise said:


> I wouldnt bother with the mk4 ex. manifold, just get an OBX or Raceland header as it will be lighter and really isnt that much money, maybe if you can get the mk4 mani real cheap...
> 
> However the mk4 AEG intake manifold is def an improvement, but a SRI would be a better option, scope out the classifieds...


 I happen to have a spare MK4 manifold swap set up I got from a junkyard (cost: 40 dollars total), that's why I'm changing it. It's the low end tq gain I'm going for. It would be a waste to add a SRI unless I put a built head on the motor. I'd probably lose a little low end, anywho. 



Jay-Bee said:


> I found a slightly cracked AEG exhaust mani for 17$ shipped
> 
> for 50$ I had it welded up so it would never separate at the brazzed sections or whatever you call it and blasted clean and ported/gasket matched.
> 
> :thumbup:


 This. MK4 exhaust manifolds flow so much better than the stock, and for such little cost! I might pair it up with a TT 2.5" DP I have in my shop. Not sure. If the stock one clears the firewall, I might not even bother. 


The car is getting ~23mpg right now driving with a heavy foot and with the 4y transmission. Chirping 3rd in a stock 8v.. :laugh:


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

must be fun, how much does it weigh?


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> must be fun, how much does it weigh?


 The jetta coupe is about 2200lbs. Maybe less, not sure.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Awesome. I couldn't find an exhaust on TT's website over 2.25" for my coupe. I was looking, and stumbled upon a "new product" 








full 2.5" with no reduction for the OEM cat. Perfect for what I'll be mating it to - a mk4 exhaust manifold and a 2.5" TT SS DP to a 42dd 2.5" test pipe. :thumbup: 

...Decided on the 268/260 cam, found one that was sitting in an engine on a stand for my friends failed G60 build. Paid a hundred bucks with AEG lifters. :thumbup: 

Chirping 2nd and then 3rd is so fun.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Awesome. I couldn't find an exhaust on TT's website over 2.25" for my coupe. I was looking, and stumbled upon a "new product"
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Hurt said:


> Also, I put my C2 Stage 2 cam file chip in. The car is completely stock right now. Even with no cam, the power gain is 100% noticeable (more mid-range,


 because: 29-31*BTDC > 16*BTDC @ WOT


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> because: 29-31*BTDC > 16*BTDC @ WOT


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> because: 29-31*BTDC > 16*BTDC @ WOT


 Yeah, it feels real nice at WOT, but even driving around town it feels different. It doesn't put-put along, it can actually move out it's own way now. I have a 16v pressure plate and a 4 puck clutch set-up in the 4y. Chirping 3rd is addictive.. I think I chirp gears on purpose every chance I get now. It's funny to watch.. A 30 year old Jetta is making noises a fast car would make, but it's really not going that fast. I topped out at a blazing 95MPH! Wasn't really pushing it, though, and cars were still pulling away on i95 :laugh: 

Travis, do you think I should bother going to HD valve springs or switching to an OBD1 head with the 268/260 or should the stock valve springs be okay for the occasional rev to 6k? I don't want to have to build this twice.. Planning to do the "build" all in this weekend. :thumbup:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Nah, just keep it as is. Obdii head is great for low end torque. It was designed for it. 


€


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Nah, just keep it as is. Obdii head is great for low end torque. It was designed for it.
> 
> 
> €


 So you don't think I'll run into any problems going with stock springs? Even if I shift at 6500 RPM at times for fun? I always upgrade springs, but it's a pain in the butt to switch out the springs for me, no OHV compressor.. Gotta buy one. 

I can do a cam install in an hour, maybe 2. This coupe is just a daily. I will only need to go to high RPM on occasions when I need to get on the highway, or show a show-off that 25 year old cars can be good daily drivers, and can show up some "better" cars. :laugh: 

PS: Travis, do you care if I use your old Golf as a starting point for my GT's exterior build? I'm thinking somewhat of a cross between a euro Vento GT and the way you accented your black paint with red details.. My GT is a little plain.. 

Putting these 2 cars together, in a way.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

go nuts.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

:thumbup: 

Found a ABD intake arm on a car at the junkyard today with a decent filter on the end, 
and I took 2 2.0 ECUs (one with a neuspeed chip!), a NIB axle, some big red 8v plug wires, and got GT leather seats (awesome!), and a corrado/mk2 steering wheel for 150 bucks. The owners don't care what the cars have IN the cabin because it would take so long to catalog it, so sometimes you get some good deals. I think this car was owned by someone with VAG's, because there was a late fox tail-light in there too, along with "some" parts that belong to a 93-95 VR6. :laugh: 

Never really thought the ABD intake was a "good" deal.. Some people say they add "reliability" to the intake system. But no real performance gain, I don't think.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Realized I forgot the tiny Neuspeed 256* cam in the cam section. Anyone ever run this cam? I really don't think it could be that good for performance. Especially for the near 300 dollar price tag! 
Specs: 
.429 Lift 
256° Duration 
110° Lobe Center 
Intake Timing: 
Open 18° Before TDC 
Close 48° After BDC 
Exhaust Timing: 
Open 58° Before BDC 
Close 8° After TDC 
The above timing is checked at .006 lifter rise. 

RPM good to 6000 RPM.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Now thats one cam I never bothered with. 

Can best be described as "Meh".


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## ny_fam (Apr 3, 2004)

Perhaps you also need to think about getting some new front suspension. Good suspension will really help keep the tires planted and reduce wheel spin. 



Hurt said:


> Bolted on a set of 205/40/16's on my car today.. No traction... I need to get a good set of tires/rims. I'm thinking 16x8 if I can pull it off. I'm not sure about tire sizes, though..


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Now thats one cam I never bothered with.
> 
> Can best be described as "Meh".


 It's kind of funny that Neuspeed describes it like it's GREAT! "one of the most aggressive cams" :screwy: 

I looked at KENT cams on NGP. They make a 260* can with 440" of lift, and a 266* with 440" of lift, and a few more. They're pretty interesting, but expensive as hell.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

ny_fam said:


> Perhaps you also need to think about getting some new front suspension. Good suspension will really help keep the tires planted and reduce wheel spin.


 Yes, I've thought of this. I still have my Koni Yellows in my garage. Riding on Ultra Low's now. If I get stiff springs and adjust the rebound of the Koni's to hard in the rear and soft in the front I should, in theory, have better traction.. but 4x4 status isn't attractive IMO.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Trying to find some more information to update this thread.. Sort of having a troubling week.. It may be a little while, buy I'll be here guys.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Still waiting on lysholm vids. opcorn: Pg. 14 ownage.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

AJmustDIE said:


> Still waiting on lysholm vids. opcorn: Pg. 14 ownage.


 Me too. I've been trying, but going 0-60 while shifting and holding a camera is near impossible. I spin like crazy until 60-70. It's.. annoying. Trying to get my suspension sorted out.. Switching to my Koni Yellows, front set to 1 and rear set to 5 with some stiff springs. I haven't really found good springs yet.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> It's kind of funny that Neuspeed describes it like it's GREAT! "one of the most aggressive cams" :screwy:
> 
> I looked at KENT cams on NGP. They make a 260* can with 440" of lift, and a 266* with 440" of lift, and a few more. They're pretty interesting, but expensive as hell.


 yeh funny 

I haven't really seen any dynos with kent cams...


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## xtrimex (Dec 2, 2008)

Can any one tell me If I can reuse my spring retainers when I install a new cam and springs? Trying to keep it on a budget.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

xtrimex said:


> Can any one tell me If I can reuse my spring retainers when I install a new cam and springs? Trying to keep it on a budget.


 Shouldn't be an issue


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Kent is out of the UK. Really expensive and can be bought through here. They are basically the Techtonics/Autotech over there. Although their cam profiles are unique, there is such a minimal hp spread/difference with 8v cams, that you would get the same power out of something you can buy local. Absolutely NOT worth $300 unless you have disposable income and just want it to list in your "mod list" in your sig.


----------



## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

xtrimex said:


> Can any one tell me If I can reuse my spring retainers when I install a new cam and springs? Trying to keep it on a budget.


 The retainers are different for dual springs vs single springs, you'll also need new seats. TT sells everything you need in a kit with the springs. 

If you mean the keepers, yes you can reuse those.


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## xtrimex (Dec 2, 2008)

That sucks this is getting expensive. Dose anyone sell Heavy Duty single sprigs as opposed to going to duel spring set up?


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

xtrimex said:


> That sucks this is getting expensive. Dose anyone sell Heavy Duty single sprigs as opposed to going to duel spring set up?


http://techtonicstuning.com/main/in...ct_info&cPath=2_13_61_484_124&products_id=123

A cam upgrade is going to be expensive. Since you're going with the TT 266*, look into this:
http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/...sion_Kit_with_Lifter_Set_270&products_id=2765
It's an autotech 270*. 2 different profiles, but very similar power delivery. The autotech kit is cheaper than buying everything separate, and it includes lifters! You'll still need to buy a chip, of course, but the autotech 270 kit is a great value.


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## xtrimex (Dec 2, 2008)

So I have a few concerns. the little mk3 is getting a slight over all for a up coming road trip -35000 miles total. If I get a cam much bigger then stock could I be Jeopardizing other parts in the long run? Plus shop labor went from 270 doing Tbelt, tensioner and cam to god knows what with the install of springs. Waiting to hear back from the shop that is going to do the work. But another shop that advertises on here quoted me 800-1200 and another quoted me 270. Sounds a little high to me. As it not that hard of a job. I would do it my self but I have a irrational fear of screwing with the timing on this car. Not sure why.


anyway... from what I gather it looks like 260 should work with stock springs. According to the cam web site it says 10hp gain which I think is BS. Can I expect any gain at all. Plus it looks like 260's can be had for around 100 bucks on here.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

xtrimex said:


> So I have a few concerns. the little mk3 is getting a slight over all for a up coming road trip -35000 miles total. If I get a cam much bigger then stock could I be Jeopardizing other parts in the long run? Plus shop labor went from 270 doing Tbelt, tensioner and cam to god knows what with the install of springs. Waiting to hear back from the shop that is going to do the work. But another shop that advertises on here quoted me 800-1200 and another quoted me 270. Sounds a little high to me. As it not that hard of a job. I would do it my self but I have a irrational fear of screwing with the timing on this car. Not sure why.
> 
> 
> anyway... from what I gather it looks like 260 should work with stock springs. According to the cam web site it says 10hp gain which I think is BS. Can I expect any gain at all. Plus it looks like 260's can be had for around 100 bucks on here.


I've run a 276* cam in my dd for ~30k miles in 1 car, and probably over 200k total. There's nothing you need to worry about. The ABA is a very strong engine.

260* is not much bigger than stock, but you'll notice a gain. The idle will sound "lopey" and it will no longer stop going after 5k RPM. It'll go past the 6200 redline easy. The 260* TT camshaft is good IMO. ~5 BHP gain, probably, with no loss in gas mileage and absolutely no idle issues.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

xtrimex said:


> So I have a few concerns. the little mk3 is getting a slight over all for a up coming road trip -35000 miles total. If I get a cam much bigger then stock could I be Jeopardizing other parts in the long run? Plus shop labor went from 270 doing Tbelt, tensioner and cam to god knows what with the install of springs. Waiting to hear back from the shop that is going to do the work. But another shop that advertises on here quoted me 800-1200 and another quoted me 270. Sounds a little high to me. As it not that hard of a job. I would do it my self but I have a irrational fear of screwing with the timing on this car. Not sure why.
> 
> 
> anyway... from what I gather it looks like 260 should work with stock springs. According to the cam web site it says 10hp gain which I think is BS. Can I expect any gain at all. Plus it looks like 260's can be had for around 100 bucks on here.


If you absolutely don't want to change the springs I say get the 260/268 asymmetrical cam, honestly I've been running the TT 260 cam for awhile and its way too subtle, like stated it will keep pulling (with the BFI stg2 chip the sweet spot feels like 5200 to ~6200rpm) but it's definitely not big enough for me... and I have full TT exhaust, 42DD hi flow cat, custom intake, an OBX header, and some subtle weight reduction; and the car still doesn't move like how I want it to...


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I got my coupe's engine put together today. Awww hell yeah. It's pretty quick for a bolt on 2 liter! I did:
OBD2 block, OBD1 cylinder head mildly ported.
MK4 intake manifold swap (complete with fuel rail + injectors)
MK4 exhaust manifold to a TT 2.5" SS DP
42dd 2.5" no reduction test pipe
2.5" TT exhaust w/borla muffler (anyone want to trade for a magnaflow?)
C2 stage 2 (race file) cam chip
268*/260* TT camshaft
Custom intake
1.8T iat sensor
And more I'm forgetting..

I think I'm at around 120WHP, based off of TT's dyno seen below: (I have more mods, but a smaller cam).








Runs great, sounds great, looks good, rides good! 

DDing is very, very nice in this car. I have it on my Ultra Low's from my GT. Switched it up.. Koni yellows on my GT now for the traction benefits of adjustable rebound. So far I am impressed with the 268/260 (never had it on a N/A car before!). Car pulls to the 6k mark very easily. Chirps into 3rd gear because of the 4y trans, the 210mm 16v flywheel and the 4 puck clutch. Great DD car, especially with the MK2 factory recaros!!

PS: My GT s/c might be sold to a friend. 

PS #2: Bump for the forum. Pretty sure this counts as information on the cam profile, not just a personal update.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Anyone know why Autotech says you need to buy their HD valve spring kit to run their 260/256 cam in a 1996-2005 Jetta/Golf/GTI? I mean.. I don't see why you would need to at all. With such a small cam you won't rev too high for the springs, and coilbind shouldn't be an issue. Just marketing, maybe? 









-Colm


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## ELiT3 (May 18, 2011)

How many MPG are you're getting.


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## xtrimex (Dec 2, 2008)

So i went to the local tuner shop today they had a TT 260 and a auto tech 260 also a few larger cams for my motor. My question is has anyone actually run a 260 with stock springs? I searched page after page and all I can find is cam for sale no real information.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

LOTS of people run both those cams with stock springs. Both are way under the max lift of the stock OBDII valve springs.

Also, there is a difference between the TT260 and the AT260; the AT260 is only a 260* duration on the intake side, the exhaust side is only a 256* duration. And there is also a TT 260* with a 256* exhaust as well....

*Techtonics*

260/256 camshaft measured @ .050"
Advertised Duration: 260*/256*
Duration @ .050" 219*/216*
Valve Lift: .421"� / .410"
Lift @ TDC: Unknown
Centerlines: 111.7* / 110.3*
Lobe Center: 111*
Valve Timing: -2.2/41.2 - 38.3/2.3
Valve Overlap: -4.5*

260 camshaft measured @ .050"
Advertised Duration: 260*
Duration @ .050": 220*
Valve Lift: .432"�
Lift @ TDC: Unknown
Centerlines: 108.68 / 111.4*
Lobe Center: 110*
Valve Timing: 1.4/38.6 - 41.1/-1.4
Valve Overlap: 0*

*Autotech*

260 camshaft measured @ .050"
Advertised Duration: 260*/256*
Duration @ .050" Unknown
Valve Lift: .421"/ .409"
Lift @ TDC: Unknown
Centerlines: Unknown
Lobe Center: 111*
Valve Timing: Unknown
Valve Overlap: Unknown


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## OC80 (Aug 9, 2010)

xtrimex said:


> So i went to the local tuner shop today they had a TT 260 and a auto tech 260 also a few larger cams for my motor. My question is has anyone actually run a 260 with stock springs? I searched page after page and all I can find is cam for sale no real information.


i have a 260 TT cam in my golf and its all stock internally and i have no problems!
pulls to redline really easy and will go to the 7000 rpm mark and the car shakes when it idles its a good cam for me. 
autotech 260/256 is a smaller cam and its meant for g60 really..


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

ELiT3 said:


> How many MPG are you're getting.


In my MK2? I'm getting 25-28 around town. The 4y trans is really geared short. I'm going to swap it out soon, I think, for a eurospec MK3 CL trans so I have better MPG gears.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Found a eurospec trans today for my mk2. The gear ratios for both tranny's are:
4y: 
1st: 3.45
2nd: 2.12
3rd: 1.44
4th: 1.13
5th: .89
F/D: 3.67
-----------------
Eurospec MPG:
1st: 3.45
2nd: 2.05
3rd: 1.25
4th: .93
5th: .74
F/D: 3.81

Anyone ever run one of these and think they're worth it? The MPG factor is really the only reason I drive the MK2. I want a good, solid DD. 
With the Eurospec MPG trans, I'll only be doing 3.5k RPM at 85MPH!
With the 4y, it's around 4k RPM at 85MPH.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Found a eurospec trans today for my mk2. The gear ratios for both tranny's are:
> 4y:
> 1st: 3.45
> 2nd: 2.12
> ...


I think I'd run a CHE from a stock MK3 ABA. They are easy to find and your rpms will be similar to the Eurospec.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Prof315 said:


> I think I'd run a CHE from a stock MK3 ABA. They are easy to find and your rpms will be similar to the Eurospec.


I looked it up, thanks for the input!

It's either an ABA 020 or a TDI 02a with a lower F/D (3.65). I'm still managing 25+ MPG dding this car. It's amazing. And my GT S/C is getting around 23.. much better than I was getting N/A! But it's a 6 speed, so.. I'm not entirely sure about how it would be with a 5 speed.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

No pictures at all....


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Hurt said:


> I looked it up, thanks for the input!
> 
> It's either an ABA 020 or a TDI 02a with a lower F/D (3.65). I'm still managing 25+ MPG dding this car. It's amazing. And my GT S/C is getting around 23.. much better than I was getting N/A! But it's a 6 speed, so.. I'm not entirely sure about how it would be with a 5 speed.


I can tell you from experience that an 02A eats quite a bit more power than the 020. But if you really want the 02A, an ATA from a G60 Corrado is easy to find and is basically a CHE in terms of gearing. TDI 02As are pretty scarce.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Prof315 said:


> I can tell you from experience that an 02A eats quite a bit more power than the 020. But if you really want the 02A, an ATA from a G60 Corrado is easy to find and is basically a CHE in terms of gearing. TDI 02As are pretty scarce.


Really? I've never run into that problem with any of my 02A powered cars.. I guess I didn't know to look for it. I found a blown engine TDI passat wagon on craigslist - that's the only reason I really picked one. I usually use a 02a Corrado G60/Passat 16v trans in any car that is "built".. The ratios are pretty well the same as a CHE, maybe a bit closer together. Thanks for your advice. :thumbup:


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

When my first Corrado had a mildly built ABA in it I took it to the dyno. Stock rado ATA code 02A tranny in it. My best pull was 116whp. I have dynoed a number of SCCA Mk3 ITB cars with very similar builds to my rado. With the stock CHE 020 they all pulled 125+ whp.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Prof315 said:


> When my first Corrado had a mildly built ABA in it I took it to the dyno. Stock rado ATA code 02A tranny in it. My best pull was 116whp. I have dynoed a number of SCCA Mk3 ITB cars with very similar builds to my rado. With the stock CHE 020 they all pulled 125+ whp.


Wow. I wonder if I could have made better than 160WHP in my old track car. 159.9 was infuriating. 

My dd 8v made 135whp with a corrado trans. If it had an 020 maybe I could have made 140+. Dang. What a bummer. 

I appreciate the info. Never knew this.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

AJmustDIE said:


> No pictures at all....


I posted some before and after videos and pictures a few pages back. It's hard to get the camera to hold still unless I go from a 60mph 3rd gear roll. I switched over to a Euro SEAT cluster, too. I like it a lot. KPH = makes it look so fast! Lol


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

I don't see them.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Someone help me fab up a OEM intake box that fits in the MK2 chassis with the ABA swap with a Mk4 intake manifold. I can't stand the noise a cone filter makes compared to my old SRI. The SRI noise is so intoxicating. I miss it so much. I might put it on the mk2 just for the hell of it.
I'm thinking a MK4 intake box would fit but I'd have to use custom plumbing. The MK4 airbox snorkel won't reach anywhere good and I don't want to cut holes in the car.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

I have a mkiv box collecting dust in my basement.


€


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> I have a mkiv box collecting dust in my basement.
> 
> 
> €


I have one from my brother's .:R32, I think they're the same thing. I'm not too familiar with MK4's, but if this doesn't work I'll let you know. I appreciate the help.

I'm thinking I can use the air intake snorkel the MK4 box has by wrapping tubing around it and running it into a hole cut into the engine bay or right infront of the bumper/grill ducts. 

SRI intake noise>No intake noise>cone filter noise.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

...I keep buying 2.0's. I couldn't resist this time, though. Problem is: IT'S MY FIRST MK4 2 LITRE! What have I gotten myself into? 

It's all stock. 2000 model. 5 speed. GTI. (well, 2 door golf..)
Anyone have a MK4 and suggest mods to make it a little less slow and funner to drive? Lol. 0-60 is like 12 seconds. :snowcool:


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## MYGTI_MA (May 3, 2010)

try the mk4 forums?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Hurt said:


> ...It's all stock. 2000 model...
> ... suggest mods...


Mod # 1: Sell it.

Actually, buy yourself some new piston rings and install them right side up. 

Then sell it.

Buying a MKIV 2.0 GTI is comparable to saying you just bought a 1974 Mustang II. :facepalm:

Im serious.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> ...I keep buying 2.0's. I couldn't resist this time, though. Problem is: IT'S MY FIRST MK4 2 LITRE! What have I gotten myself into?
> 
> It's all stock. 2000 model. 5 speed. GTI. (well, 2 door golf..)
> Anyone have a MK4 and suggest mods to make it a little less slow and funner to drive? Lol. 0-60 is like 12 seconds. :snowcool:


 lw fly and mildly stronger/snappier clutch (usually comes in a package deal; lw fly and VR clutch), giac chip and exhaust or just remove muffler and cat and leave the resonator (those were my original mods) tho i think united motorsports has a better chip now. The GIAC chip made a noticeable difference, it definitely took away the feeling the 4th gear didnt accel any faster than 5th...with the chip it did finally

Should be good for high 16s then :laugh:...no seriously :sly:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Mod # 1: Sell it.
> 
> Actually, buy yourself some new piston rings and install them right side up.
> 
> ...


Yeah, I might end up re-selling it. I bought it from an Auction - They said the trans was toasted. In reality it was the shift linkage. 

I really don't like it so far. It isn't my first MK4, but it's my first MK4 2.0 - this car is slower than a MK3 by a long shot and doesn't feel any better in any way. At all. The interior is maybe a teeny bit better, I like the seats. Other than that? MK4's suck. 


To the guy who said "go to the MK4 forum" - are you crazy? The ratio of stupid people to helpful people in that forum is higher than the ratio of sluts to women in the jersey-shore area. I don't want any of their MK4 logic rubbing off onto me. :screwy:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Hurt said:


> The ratio of stupid people to helpful people in that forum is higher than the ratio of sluts to women in the jersey-shore area.


Hot damn....that analogy blows my Mustang II analogy away!


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

Quintin had some good advice if you plan on keeping it, but i have had both giac and united motorsports tune... def go with UM. And stay away from the mk4 forum unless you want every post to be replied with lower it, get bags, or buy rs's

Sent from my VS840 4G using Tapatalk 2


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Hot damn....that analogy blows my Mustang II analogy away!


LMFAO. Thanks Travis. I thought it was a pretty good analogy myself. 

I'm just going to sell it. Screw MK4's. I only paid 900 dollars for it. 90k miles. 5 speed. Good body, motor, and trans. I guess this was more of a impulsive purchase. I was thinking I could keep it and let my wife have it as a second car, but our 2 girls are both still in car-seats, so a 2 door won't work. :banghead:

Speaking of 2.0's, did VW make a 8v Corrado in good ol' MERICA? I'd like to get my hands on one of those.. but Corrados in general are scarce around here! Jessi (oc80) has a SLC, and my friend has a lysholm G60, but other than that.. No Corrados around here!


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Anyone ever make a 2 step/launch control for a MK3? I'd really like to be able to get some good, consistent launches down.

Also, anyone got a diagram for wiring up a push-button start? My little brother's ignition barrel went on his MK3 - I think the Push Button Start would add a little flair to the car, and it's cheaper than fixing the ignition.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Anyone ever make a 2 step/launch control for a MK3? I'd really like to be able to get some good, consistent launches down.
> 
> Also, anyone got a diagram for wiring up a push-button start? My little brother's ignition barrel went on his MK3 - I think the Push Button Start would add a little flair to the car, and it's cheaper than fixing the ignition.


Google WOTBox...do werk :beer:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Of course Corrados came with an 8v...it was the 1.8l G60 motor. 

GO into the MKIII fashion forum and search that forum for 'push button start'. After you weed your way through all the 'thats rice' responses, you will find a couple good DIY's.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Of course Corrados came with an 8v...it was the 1.8l G60 motor.



Yeah but I'd rather run an ABA in a 'rado than a stock PG/G60..... Oh wait! that's what I did at first with my blue G60 and what I am doing now with my red SLC


----------



## 6OlfeR (Apr 6, 2012)

I know in his post he said not to go any higher than a 260 cam without replacing the valves springs and what not. But my friend has a TT 262 cam that was in his 98 golf with stock valves springs and I'm thinking about buying it from him for my 97 jetta. Would this give too much lift and cause valve float or would I be good to just pop this cam in?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

No such thing as a Techtonics 262* cam for an ABA


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> Google WOTBox...do werk :beer:


I SUCK at wiring anything other than gauges. 



911_fan said:


> Of course Corrados came with an 8v...it was the 1.8l G60 motor.
> 
> GO into the MKIII fashion forum and search that forum for 'push button start'. After you weed your way through all the 'thats rice' responses, you will find a couple good DIY's.


You got me.
I meant an ABA, though.. I should have been more clear.

I did find a DIY start button. And I also found a video on youtube of how to. It's not a MK3, but it's simple. Splice into 1 wire and done. 


Also, thanks to your advice, I found out my car is severely out of style times! I need to lower it another 2 inches, get some 16x8 F and 16x8.5 R BBS's, and I need to put tiny tires on them.. Oh, and run -3* camber. lol stance lol 





6OlfeR said:


> I know in his post he said not to go any higher than a 260 cam without replacing the valves springs and what not. But my friend has a TT 262 cam that was in his 98 golf with stock valves springs and I'm thinking about buying it from him for my 97 jetta. Would this give too much lift and cause valve float or would I be good to just pop this cam in?


..A 262*? Do you mean 272*? Anything over .432" of lift = danger to manifold!!! Uh, I mean valve springs.


----------



## 6OlfeR (Apr 6, 2012)

911_fan said:


> No such thing as a Techtonics 262* cam for an ABA





Hurt said:


> ..A 262*? Do you mean 272*? Anything over .432" of lift = danger to manifold!!! Uh, I mean valve springs.


I know his golf was an aba and I typed in the serial number for the TT cam and thats what came up?
I'll look into it more and see if I can find the info again. You guys are most likely right tho. His golf took a giant poo on him years ago and I'm not sure what exactly happened but it had to do with his engine. This is also a guy who didn't know his car had a borla on it from the previous owners and sawed it off and then replaced it with a p.o.s. $30 muffler... :screwy:


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## bybcworld (Jun 22, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Mod # 1: Sell it.
> 
> Actually, buy yourself some new piston rings and install them right side up.
> 
> ...


This blows me away! Who the hell are you to tell someone that they should go sell their car!!??

I am amazed that someone would actually think that they are that far above someone that it would be ok to even suggest that when the guy asked a totally legit question! 

AND... I am even more amazed that the person who asked the question would actually roll over and give in to peer pressure as easily as they did! 

GROW SOME BALLS! You got a good deal on a car! Don't be such a F-ing *****! 

Rant over!


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

bybcworld said:


> This blows me away! Who the hell are you to tell someone that they should go sell their car!!??
> 
> I am amazed that someone would actually think that they are that far above someone that it would be ok to even suggest that when the guy asked a totally legit question!
> 
> ...


relax new guy! We all know each other here and we ALL know the capabilities and deficiencies of these cars so we can say these things :beer: you do not know us and so you wouldnt understand Travis's intentions. Now he's one of the FEW who have built a good STRONG *N/A* 8v and i'm one of the few who built a good STRONG *TURBO* 8v...thus why we say...SELL IT BITCH!:laugh:

LoL this is just like all the sexual harassment spewed around nowadays...you can be talking amongst yourselves but if one person across the hall doesnt like it, all hell breaks loose:laugh:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

bybcworld said:


> This blows me away! Who the hell are you to tell someone that they should go sell their car!!??
> 
> I am amazed that someone would actually think that they are that far above someone that it would be ok to even suggest that when the guy asked a totally legit question!
> 
> ...


First thing I read this morning as I get into the office is this. LMAO.

Not that it needs to be explained in this forum...again for the thousandth time, I will gladly extrapolate on my opinion why the MKIV 2.0 is a steaming heap of donkey sh*t...

Firstly...

In the early AEG engines (1999/2000) used in the A4 platform, the parts manufacturer thought it would be a good idea to stamp thousands of piston rings upside down. And, of course, ze Germans install these said piston rings _upside down_. Result? Oil consumption in the magnitude of 1 quart of oil every 2000 miles. Customers complain, as they feel this oil consumption is excessive, and VW responds with "It innerhalb der Spezifikationen." (translation: Suck it, Americans) A class action law suit is started against VWAG and a massive recall was called. 

Secondly...

The MKIV used the same power output to propel a significantly heavier car. Couple that with a taller geared trans, and..._viola_...You get a pig-heavy car with poor acceleration and with even poorer fuel economy over the previous A3 platform. About the ONLY saving grace this car had was the interior design/quality. Thaaaaaat's about it. 

Quintin pretty much summed it up, so I'll just reiterate what he typed; Suck it, n00b.


----------



## bybcworld (Jun 22, 2011)

Ahhh there we go! Just the response I expected (911_fan... "suck it noob") which actually was not what I got from [email protected]'s post so you really did not sum it up at all as you think you did. 

Anyway... Ive owned a few VW's including an 04 GTI 1.8T 5 spd which I did some mods to and loved and wish the hell I never would have sold it. But I did and I found a like new 05 MK4 Jetta that happened to have a 2.Slow in it (yes Im not totally delusional) and yes I know you can't do much to them without spending a ton but you know what... just from doing the few things I have done so far it feels like a whole different car and after I do a few more things it will be even better AND... it gets awesome fuel mileage! 

So I guess I should not have done the "drink and post" thing last night but Im just getting sick of seeing post's like that all over this forum and I just had to say something! 

I apologize for the beer rant and thanks [email protected] for your response!


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

What you failed to realize, Chief, is that it was a complete tongue and cheek jab to Colm. And he knows it. You, not knowing wtf you were reading, read it in the text of a "typical Vortex douche" response. That was your first mistake. 

Second mistake was to assume I actually AM a typical Vortex douche. In a way, I am, but certainly not on MKIV-forum levels. I've been around here for quite a while and have contributed a metric ass-load of assistance and useful contributions to this forum. Hell, people have actually called me from the side of the road and during race events in the pits asking me for my opinion. I'll be the occasional ass if I feel like it. 

TL;DR
Keep your ignorant opinions in your head until you have some sort of idea what you are commenting on.


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

911_fan said:


> What you failed to realize, Chief, is that it was a complete tongue and cheek jab to Colm. And he knows it. You, not knowing wtf you were reading, read it in the text of a "typical Vortex douche" response. That was your first mistake.
> 
> Second mistake was to assume I actually AM a typical Vortex douche. In a way, I am, but certainly not on MKIV-forum levels. I've been around here for quite a while and have contributed a metric ass-load of assistance and useful contributions to this forum. Hell, people have actually called me from the side of the road and during race events in the pits asking me for my opinion. I'll be the occasional ass if I feel like it.
> 
> ...


You go Travis! :laugh: And for the record I completely agree with you, the Mk4 2.0L is an utter turd (with a decent looking interior, at least till it falls to pieces).

Concerning the gearing on 2.slow Mk4s..... All of the 02Js I have come across in 2.0L Mk4s have a 4.24 ring and pinion but coupled with 16 inch wheels it does wind up worse than the 3.67 r&p in the CHE 020 with 14s


----------



## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

This makes me lol


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

I mean, I hate to whip out the "I'm awesome" card, but, really.


----------



## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

911_fan said:


> I mean, I hate to whip out the "I'm awesome" card, but, really.


lol thats funny :thumbup:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

bybcworld said:


> and yes I know you can't do much to them without spending a ton


how much is a ton to you?


----------



## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

911_fan said:


> The MKIV used the same power output to propel a significantly heavier car. Couple that with a taller geared trans, and..._viola_...You get a pig-heavy car with poor acceleration and with even poorer fuel economy over the previous A3 platform. About the ONLY saving grace this car had was the interior design/quality. Thaaaaaat's about it.


x3.

Even the A3's weren't all that fast, but they were at least bearable. Heck, I've got all the bolt-ons (intake, header, 2.25" exhaust, 276* cam, chip, blah blah blah)...and I still get smoked by just about every newer car on the road. Me vs F-150 was a real close race last week


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

bybcworld said:


> This blows me away! Who the hell are you to tell someone that they should go sell their car!!??
> 
> I am amazed that someone would actually think that they are that far above someone that it would be ok to even suggest that when the guy asked a totally legit question!
> 
> ...


 ...Really?
Do you even realize me and 911_fan are pals? Not to mention, it was good advice. MK4 2.0's suck. Bad. I already have it on Craigslist and it's for sale for a thousand more than I paid. 2 people coming tomorrow. 

Relax. I understand you were trying to protect me or something, but that isn't the case. Don't turn this thread into a pissing match bybcworld. 

Thanks,

Colm


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Oh, Travis, I forgot. You didn't answer my question about the Corrado 8v. I meant a 2.0, not a G60. If I could find a Corrado with a 2.0, I'd pick it up. Did they come to the USA? 

Thanks,

~Colm


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Nope, never. G60 and VR only my friend.


€


----------



## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

I wonder if anybody's ever put a stock x-flow in one just because


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

AJmustDIE said:


> I wonder if anybody's ever put a stock x-flow in one just because


Yeah I have. Before I did the 20/20t I had an ABA in my now dead and gone 90 G60. Got over 40 mpgs with it using MS for management. And my new 92 SLC is getting an OBD2 ABA put in it so I can do the 20/20 properly


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

If i had to build another HP producing 2001+ 8v it would go like this:

Pistons/Rods $900
Misc rebuild parts $500
HX35 $250 (maybe even cheaper  )
Ramhorn manifold ($325 in parts or $8~900 pre-made)
SRI ($250 in parts or buy the USRT one  )
make my own 3in exhaust ($500parts)
cheap ebay piping and couplers $100
Nab a 1.8t awp/aww ecu and harness from junkyard $150
buy eurodyne BT software with maestro 7 $900
TT276 wide LSA $250

Basically 4100~5300 total

Didnt include the w/m kit but i went baller and got stage 3..

Also clutch and fly another 600


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Nope, never. G60 and VR only my friend.
> 
> Drat! I want one. I guess this is going to be my next project. To the corrado Classifieds!
> 
> €





Prof315 said:


> Yeah I have. Before I did the 20/20t I had an ABA in my now dead and gone 90 G60. Got over 40 mpgs with it using MS for management. And my new 92 SLC is getting an OBD2 ABA put in it so I can do the 20/20 properly


Do you know if the OBD1 ABA harness/ecu plugs into the corrado body harness? This is going to be my next "build". :laugh:


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Do you know if the OBD1 ABA harness/ecu plugs into the corrado body harness? This is going to be my next "build". :laugh:


Well they are both CE2 so it should be pretty easy. But you could make things work at least as well with a Megasquirt 2. Yeah, yeah I know..... Connecticut emissions testing..... leave a cat and a narrow band o2 sensor in it and it can pass a sniffer test easily. And that way the stupid MAF can go away!


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Prof315 said:


> Well they are both CE2 so it should be pretty easy. But you could make things work at least as well with a Megasquirt 2. Yeah, yeah I know..... Connecticut emissions testing..... leave a cat and a narrow band o2 sensor in it and it can pass a sniffer test easily. And that way the stupid MAF can go away!


Yeah, from what I've researched it's only maybe one or two wires to jumper. MS = nightmare for me. I am not too good at wiring anything but gauges and engine harnesses, that's about it.. I can't make a fuel map. I can't make a timing map. I can't do any of that.

I'm looking for a G60 with no rust/rot with a blown engine but good trans, or a plain clean G60, if I can't find a blown motor one. That way, G60 comes out, ABA goes in, using the G60 trans. I'll take the ABA engine out of my MK2, which is pretty much basic bolt ons, since I'm swapping a VR6 in that car anyways. The engine that'll go in the corrado has:

OBD2 block, OBD1 cylinder head mildly ported.
Ported OBD2 throttle body (deramped)
MK4 intake manifold swap 
MK4 exhaust manifold to a TT 2.5" SS DP to Test pipe
268*/260* TT camshaft
C2 Race file Cam chip

Now, I am going to swap in a Autotech 270* cam that I am trading the 268/260 for.. I'm not too sure if my exhaust set up will work, but since the Corrado used a MK2 front, I'm hoping it'll work to the cat, then I will buy a 2.5" TT system for a Corrado. I'm also hoping I can find a electrical gremlin free G60. I want everything to work. Fully daily-drivable.. Might even keep A/C if possible.


CT emissions testing? I have a lot of friends in the Auto industry in CT, and, well, I'll pass.. 


Thanks for the information, guys. I appreciate it dearly.

~Colm


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Anyone know why there is no apparent power gain in the MK6 2 litre? 

MK3 = 114hp 122tq
MK4 = 114hp 127tq (more tq due to better intake manifold, maybe?)
MK6 = 115hp 125tq

...The MK6 has a plastic intake manifold which is probably much better than the ABA's, and it has VVT (if I am remembering right)..


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Not sure where you got that mkiv source, but it has the same power as a MKIII, just at different rpms.



€


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Not sure where you got that mkiv source, but it has the same power as a MKIII, just at different rpms.
> 
> 
> 
> €


It was on wikipedia and several other "cars" websites.. I'm not sure if VW just estimated, or if it really made more power. The MK4 intake has been proven to make more HP on a ABA, maybe it did good for the MK4 AEG too? 

I'm not sure, I could be wrong..

But does the MK6 have VVT? I know the late MK4 cars introduced it, but I'm not entirely sure about the MK6. Doesn't the MK6 have a variable intake manifold? Like an integra GSR - Butterfly valve opens at certain RPM to allow more air in? I think I read about some VW 1.6l that did that, too.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

The 2.0 is 115hp/123tq across the boards. Power is made at different rpms. The VVT is only for cold starts, but im betting it can be tuned like the 1.8ts, though with a stock cam, it's little to no difference. 


€


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> The 2.0 is 115hp/123tq across the boards. Power is made at different rpms. The VVT is only for cold starts, but im betting it can be tuned like the 1.8ts, though with a stock cam, it's little to no difference.
> 
> 
> €


Ahh. Okay. What do you think the MK3 ABA gets it's power gains from the MK4 for? Does the MK3 head flow air better than the MK4 head? It's odd to have 3 different engine variations and have no HP/TQ gain, especially with all the new things on the MK6. I dunno.. Seems weird. Maybe VW is guesstimating? 

I'm flying out to AZ to buy a Corrado G60 for my 2.0 8v swap! It's going to be neuspeed S/C'd with the 2.0 with my 268/260 and a C2 tune, most likely.. Unless I decide to use a Autotech 270*. 

PS: 
I finally fixed my suspension on my GT! No more traction problems. Well, it's better than before by far. It's way too high up for my liking, but the Neuspeed race springs (38mm drop) are the only ones I can find that give me the best traction for the holeshot. Thinking about 15mm front strut caps, but.. Idk. I don't care about "stance, yo!" that much. I tried FK 60/40 springs to no avail. I also tried H&R's from their 60/40. I have Koni yellows rebound set to 1 (softest) in the front and 5 (stiffest) in the rear. It's great. I really like it. BBM's kit is well worth the money. I'm using 205/50/15's, and I actually have traction now!

:thumbup:


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5289811-TECH-MKIII-amp-MKIV-engine-specs

The manifold design just moves the peak torque around.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

bump for the forum.

:thumbup:


----------



## bybcworld (Jun 22, 2011)

911_fan said:


> I mean, I hate to whip out the "I'm awesome" card, but, really.


OH MY GOD I AM SOOOOO SORRY! I didn't realize who you were! A true legend! :laugh:


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Damn right, Skippy. 


€


----------



## ny_fam (Apr 3, 2004)

Little information about the MK3 intake vs. MK4 intakes - back to back dyno runs I had done to test the various intake manifolds on a lightly modified ABA. Strange to see VW make the 8 valve 2.0 for so many years without increasing power output. Anyone know if fuel economy has increase during that time?
mk4 intake is really only noticeably better HP wise when its ported. I don't think out dyno plots showed torque levels.


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

ny_fam said:


> Little information about the MK3 intake vs. MK4 intakes - back to back dyno runs I had done to test the various intake manifolds on a lightly modified ABA. Strange to see VW make the 8 valve 2.0 for so many years without increasing power output. Anyone know if fuel economy has increase during that time?
> mk4 intake is really only noticeably better HP wise when its ported. I don't think out dyno plots showed torque levels.


Hey! I recognise those charts and graphs.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Me too!

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4687491-TECH-OEM-Intake-manifold-dyno-MKIII-vs-MKIV


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

_lately I've been thinking about 11 to 1 compression and a supercharger with C2 software..._


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> _lately I've been thinking about 11 to 1 compression and a supercharger with C2 software..._


Better keep really good gas in it.


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Me too!
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4687491-TECH-OEM-Intake-manifold-dyno-MKIII-vs-MKIV


Ahh makes me miss my blue 90 Rado...... That car was the test mule from hell. Intakes, MS3, MS3X, 20/20T with a stock ABA bottom end (no piston notching). I had a lot of fun with that car, worst part is, the dyno is gone too!


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Prof315 said:


> Ahh makes me miss my blue 90 Rado...... That car was the test mule from hell. Intakes, MS3, MS3X, 20/20T with a stock ABA bottom end (no piston notching). I had a lot of fun with that car, worst part is, the dyno is gone too!


 :thumbup:
I just picked up a 1990 Corrado, but it isn't blue. It's white. :laugh:

It's going to be a 2.0 ABA when it's finished! 
Picked up a 98 Jetta Wolfsburg with a blown trans, a haaard rear hit, and some dents and bad rust, for 400 dollars.. But, _it only has 75k miles!_ I sold the rims that were on it for 200, and I am parting out the rest. All I need is the engine/ecu/wiring, the corrado drivetrain is staying. After I'm done selling the mint interior and the non-damaged panels, I'm sure I'll be + a few hundred than what I started off with. 

*I wonder if VW will ever dump the ABA engine*. Will it be used in the MK7's? I mean.. come on. They're too slow. I can't imagine how bad they must accelerate. Even the MK4 Golf 2.0 I just sold was BARELY able to reach 60 MPH by the on-ramp, can't imagine how much slower a heavier car would accelerate.


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Hurt said:


> :thumbup:
> I just picked up a 1990 Corrado, but it isn't blue. It's white. :laugh:
> 
> It's going to be a 2.0 ABA when it's finished!
> ...


I bought a 92 SLC to replace the 90. Non-running of course and the first thing I did was pull the VR6. It's going to start out with an ABA but on MS3, I've been doing a hardcore rewire/clean up on everything forward of the firewall but the powertrain should be going in tomorrow. I'll still have a TON of wiring left but I wanted to do this one right from the start. Eventually the ABA will come out and the 20/20 will go back in but not until I rebuild the 20/20 with forged piston and good rods and receive my 7 month backordered EFR 6258 turbo.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Looked at the MK7 line-up thing, and there is no more 2.0 8v! 2.5l = new base engine


----------



## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Looked at the MK7 line-up thing, and there is no more 2.0 8v! 2.5l = new base engine


I was just reading in the 2.5l technical forum that the 2.5l will no longer be made. VW recently announced it will be abandoning it and going back to a turbocharged 1.8l to yield improved gas mileage and increased torque


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Prof315 said:


> Better keep really good gas in it.


you think it could be okay with 93/94 octane...? 

maybe better I do 10.5 to 1 CR


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

02vwgolf said:


> I was just reading in the 2.5l technical forum that the 2.5l will no longer be made. VW recently announced it will be abandoning it and going back to a turbocharged 1.8l to yield improved gas mileage and increased torque


Dang, really? I thought it was 1.8T, 2.5, 2.0tdi and 2.0T.. I can see the MK4 kids going OMG MK7 ON AIR AND RS' WIT A 1.8T NEVER LOSES!


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> you think it could be okay with 93/94 octane...?
> 
> maybe better I do 10.5 to 1 CR


..That's a LOT of compression for a S/C set up.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

_*cough*_water meth injection_*cough*_


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

911_fan said:


> _*cough*_water meth injection_*cough*_


Agreed that would work, however you'd have to ALWAYS keep the tank full.


----------



## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

Supercharged 10:5:1 with a proper w/m system would be a great combination, just need to be smart and keep w/m levels in mind while driving it hard:thumbup:

Sent from my VS840 4G using Tapatalk 2


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

hmm i just haven't seen a high compression setup with a NS SC... I was thinking with the good C2 software it would be okay...

mill the head and do some headwork too...


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> ..That's a LOT of compression for a S/C set up.


not really it's all in the custom tuning.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> not really it's all in the custom tuning.


Of course it's possible . I just think the Neuspeed S/C kit is sort of a moot upgrade. You can't do too much to it, because of the lack of an intercooler.


I saw a 0-60 of a stock 2.0 Jetta automatic on youtube - 8.5 seconds.
0-60 of a stock 5 speed is like.. what? 10? 11?

The ABA's powerband is silly.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

hmm yeh, well NS SC can be picked up for around 1k, whereas the BBM kit is like what 2-3K... I would rather turbocharge it to be honest at that point with a Kinetic kit, SRI, and custom intercooler...


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> hmm yeh, well NS SC can be picked up for around 1k, whereas the BBM kit is like what 2-3K... I would rather turbocharge it to be honest at that point with a Kinetic kit, SRI, and custom intercooler...


Yeah, the BBM kit is around 3 grand. It cost me around 5 for everything.

I don't like turbo charged 2.0's personally.. IME they don't work too well with the ABA's torque curve/power curve. 

I went with the BBM stage 3 kit and I had to give up my SRI to make things fit. Sad day.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Yeah, the BBM kit is around 3 grand. It cost me around 5 for everything.
> 
> I don't like turbo charged 2.0's personally.. IME they don't work too well with the ABA's torque curve/power curve.
> 
> I went with the BBM stage 3 kit and I had to give up my SRI to make things fit. Sad day.


 thats a weak excuse man, it depends on how you set it up. My OG turbo setup i made with a TDO4-13t off a wrx made peak torque around 3200 and peak hp around 4500~5k very much like the stock 2.0 power curve and very close to the 1.8t stock turbo power curves as well.

My favorite street setup was when i upgraded to the 16g (lil bigger than the K04-22) 

i still got a dyno of that floating around somewhere but that was 200wtq around 3500 and peak tq around 4200 (cam adj made it peak around 3800 later on). Lag on both those setups was negligible since they had such small hotsides. 

Not knocking BBM setups at all offering peak tq by 28~3200 and staying relatively flat to 5k. I wish people would finish their twin charger setups one day so i could see that result but oh well.

Maybe i'll make that my next project:beer:


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> thats a weak excuse man,


It isn't an excuse. It's an opinion.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> It isn't an excuse. It's an opinion.


wonder where they got that superlate turbo graph from?

Anyway i'm just bustin your balls. Here's my graph for comparison.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

so it should look something like this...75more wtq at 2500 must feel nice...if the tires will hold it lol


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> wonder where they got that superlate turbo graph from?
> 
> Anyway i'm just bustin your balls. Here's my graph for comparison.




^ wow how many psi is that?? and what cam?


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> Anyway i'm just bustin your balls.


I know 
I just really don't like the turbo 8v's. And yeah, the low end tq doesn't always translate into acceleration. I spin and spin until around 45.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> ^ wow how many psi is that?? and what cam?


that was a the subie Big16g turbo at 20~22psi on a ****tY tune on stock head and cam.


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> that was a the subie Big16g turbo at 20~22psi on a ****tY tune on stock head and cam.


Looking at the AFRs, Yeah that is a VERY ***tty tune.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Prof315 said:


> Looking at the AFRs, Yeah that is a VERY ***tty tune.


you dont even know the half of it lol...if i can find the logs i was seein like 11~14* of timing up top...car could have easily made 260whp+ at the same boost.:laugh:


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> you dont even know the half of it lol...if i can find the logs i was seein like 11~14* of timing up top...car could have easily made 260whp+ at the same boost.:laugh:



22psi? woah. Mine peaks at 20 and holds steady at around 18.5 (I think.. my boost gauge is in BAR.. 1.3/1.4 bar is consistent from near idle onward, peaking at 1.5. I really enjoy my S/C kit. But I do like a good ol' snail.. The spool sound on my old Supra was wonderful, and I had stock twins. woooooooooooooooshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh bwapbwapbwap pssssttt lmfao


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> 22psi? woah. Mine peaks at 20 and holds steady at around 18.5 (I think.. my boost gauge is in BAR.. 1.3/1.4 bar is consistent from near idle onward, peaking at 1.5. I really enjoy my S/C kit. But I do like a good ol' snail.. The spool sound on my old Supra was wonderful, and I had stock twins. woooooooooooooooshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh bwapbwapbwap pssssttt lmfao


 haha the HX35 i had i ran 30 when i really wanted to hurt feelings. I did 36psi on c16 as well


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> 36psi


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


>


yup...running one dem fast supras. I still lost by like a car and a half.:banghead:


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> yup...running one dem fast supras. I still lost by like a car and a half.:banghead:


My 95 Supra TT had a Greddy/Trust exhaust from turbo back (which gained 30 or 40whp), a K&N replacement filter, and a bleed valve, and GReddy's BCC.. Stock PSI was 10 or so. With the BPU's, I was running 17PSI. The factory fuelcut is at 14PSI, that's why the BCC was needed. I loved that car.. 150MPH like it was nothing. Begging for more, too. My brother still owns it, so I see it quite a bit. Big turbo now. It's a rocket! (we pegged the speedometer at 180).

My 8v S/C beats my friend's Zengineering VR6 with 262's and exhaust all the way til 125 MPH. Twin screw>Centrifugal, IMO :thumbup:
It's so neat to finally be able to say my 8v is "fast". 1.8T's = breakfast. A bolt on VR6 Lunch. S/C VR6? Supper. 

Haha. Working on a custom 2.0 gauge cluster. I'm going to use the tach face from a VR6 cluster (6500 RPM redline), and use the 2.0 speedo. Black faces, orange needles. All of my gauges are black face, orange needle, white writing. Trying to get rid of the green glow so it'll glow white instead, but IDK if taking the green film out would work. And I really don't want to mess with taking cluster needles off, I'm not too good with that stuff. shaky hands = fail


----------



## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

I was browsing TT's website and came across their valve kits

http://techtonicstuning.com/main/in...ct_info&cPath=2_13_61_484_125&products_id=136

Whats the difference between this hi-flow kit and the factory valves? 
I also saw another kit that advertised bigger valves.
Is it worth it to upgrade these when I rebuild my head?


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> My 95 Supra TT had a Greddy/Trust exhaust from turbo back (which gained 30 or 40whp), a K&N replacement filter, and a bleed valve, and GReddy's BCC.. Stock PSI was 10 or so. With the BPU's, I was running 17PSI. The factory fuelcut is at 14PSI, that's why the BCC was needed. I loved that car.. 150MPH like it was nothing. Begging for more, too. My brother still owns it, so I see it quite a bit. Big turbo now. It's a rocket! (we pegged the speedometer at 180).
> 
> My 8v S/C beats my friend's Zengineering VR6 with 262's and exhaust all the way til 125 MPH. Twin screw>Centrifugal, IMO :thumbup:
> It's so neat to finally be able to say my 8v is "fast". 1.8T's = breakfast. A bolt on VR6 Lunch. S/C VR6? Supper.
> ...


 that z-engineering kit was a joke. i'm glad to hear he lost! lol

i tell you whats sexy...full throttle thru a tunnel racing a mk2 supra BPU and shooting fireballs as you shift passing him!


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Alingarhs said:


> I was browsing TT's website and came across their valve kits
> 
> http://techtonicstuning.com/main/in...ct_info&cPath=2_13_61_484_125&products_id=136
> 
> ...


They're bigger compared with stock if I remember the #'s correctly. 
Is it worth it? No not really, unless you have a really ported head or you're running alot of boost.


----------



## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

[email protected] said:


> that z-engineering kit was a joke. i'm glad to hear he lost! lol


I like it on my ABA and it is fun for quick extra power. I paid around $1,500 for two complete kits with extra parts and fueling. It only runs 5-8psi, so a stage 3 BBM kit _should_ walk all over one on a VR all day. I can hang with lightly modded VRs no problem. The dynos floating around show it making more torque and power than Neuspeed and stage 1 BBM. I've read a lot of posts where people with the stage 1 BBM kit said it barely makes 5psi at redline.

The newer RSC ones have a liquid intercooler setup, but I haven't seen anyone running one in the states yet. I'm sure if someone really wanted to they could run close to 20 psi with a custom smaller pulley, plus you can still run an SRI.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> I like it on my ABA and it is fun for quick extra power. I paid around $1,500 for two complete kits with extra parts and fueling. It only runs 5-8psi, so a stage 3 BBM kit _should_ walk all over one on a VR all day. I can hang with lightly modded VRs no problem. The dynos floating around show it making more torque and power than Neuspeed and stage 1 BBM. I've read a lot of posts where people with the stage 1 BBM kit said it barely makes 5psi at redline.
> 
> The newer RSC ones have a liquid intercooler setup, but I haven't seen anyone running one in the states yet. I'm sure if someone really wanted to they could run close to 20 psi with a custom smaller pulley, plus you can still run an SRI.


 Only 5 PSI on the BBM kit? Woah. That's.. kind of sad.. down near Neuspeed's levels. But it's safe, I suppose, and it's only stage 1 (stock cam, no intercooler, etc..) 

I have no problem with 1.5 BAR of boost - and I run a 276* LLCA cam with a built head. 
[I'm going to pull it apart soon to install TT"s biggest valve kit. I'm hoping to get a few runs on a dyno, too. I want to see if I can advance my cam gear for more low end (not that I need it, but shifting off the clock (7300 RPM limit) is annoying and it isn't precise.) Maybe even retard it a bit.] 

The Zengineering kit isn't really my style. I don't care for centrifugal chargers, they don't make sense in my opinion. 

My mods are: 

Full stage 3 BBM kit, running 1.3-1.5 bar of boost 
Ported MK4 intake manifold w/new south powergasket(s) 
276* TT boost cam 
3 angle valve job OBD1 head with LW lifters and HD valve springs 
decked/Milled 040" 
TT non-aluminum adjustable cam gear set to 0 currently 
Ported MK4 exhaust manifold mated to 2.5" SS DP 
MBS 3" FULL Exhaust w/magnaflow mufflers (no cat) 
Neuspeed plug wires 
MSD blaster ignition 
Battery moved to the trunk for space 
Intake filter routed infront of a custom duct (where the fog light/dummy goes) 
BBM 6 speed 02A with a peloquin LSD. 
C2 stage II tune 
42# injectors 
70mm MAF 

..I think that's it for performance. Not counting suspension or anything. 
I'm hoping for 250WHP at least.. pulls very, very hard for a 2.0! 
:thumbup:


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

That's a nice mod list. I never had plans to go to FI, but I thought the kits were too cheap to pass up. I'm running one on a stock OBD2 ABA. Only power mods are the chip for the charger, cone filter, and 2.25" exhaust. It's enough fun for an automatic daily, but I want to install my SRI and old head after I get a different cam. My old golf sport had the following: 

-SVi Welding dual plenum SRI 
-OBD1 head w/3-angle valve job, hd valve springs, titanium lifters, arp studs, and p&p from Schimmel 
-272 cat cam (really a 280/278 i think) 
-TT adjustable cam gear 
-TT 4:1 race header 
-Custom mandrel bent stainless 2.5" exhaust with TT high flow cat (no resonators) 
-K&N cone filter 
-GIAC chip 
-Magnecor wires 
-MSD Blaster 2 
-Motorcycle battery relocation to trunk 
-AC delete w/ euro rad/rebar 

Drove it for 10 years. Body rusted out pretty bad with close to 300k. Bought it with 60k r-titled.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> That's a nice mod list. I never had plans to go to FI, but I thought the kits were too cheap to pass up. I'm running one on a stock OBD2 ABA. Only power mods are the chip for the charger, cone filter, and 2.25" exhaust. It's enough fun for an automatic daily, but I want to install my SRI and old head after I get a different cam.


 I wasn't going to go FI either until I only hit 135whp with a 276*. 

Auto? How's the trans holding up? I've been looking at automatics and how most of them are actually faster to 60 than the 5 speed mk3s stock. :screwy:


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Hurt said:


> I wasn't going to go FI either until I only hit 135whp with a 276*.


 Yeah, and prob spent over $2-3k for the rest of bolt-ons and engine work too right? :laugh: I was in the same boat with my golf sport. Never dynoed, but with all that I listed, the supercharger pulls harder on my mostly stock jetta. The top end isn't as nice without the cam and other goodies though. 

Both of them were autos. I know everyone on here hates them, but I've never had any problems and beat on them pretty good. The 096 in the sport had close to 300k and still shifted fine the last time I drove it to it's resting place. I'm not sure what my old chip had the rev-limiter set to, but i'd hit it's cutoff still pulling hard in 2nd and 3rd. I'd always downshift instead of braking too. With mods, you pretty much have to manually shift to get the power out of them or they'll shift too soon most of the time. A better chip tune would probably help that though. 

Same with the 01M I'm driving now. No problems and I don't shift out of 2nd until I hit peak psi. I think they are a little slower than a manual revving up from a stop. I was planning on doing a 5-speed swap at some point, but the yard I go to really hasn't been bringing in any new vws.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> Yeah, and prob spent over $2-3k for the rest of bolt-ons and engine work too right? :laugh: I was in the same boat with my golf sport. Never dynoed, but with all that I listed, the supercharger pulls harder on my mostly stock jetta. The top end isn't as nice without the cam and other goodies though.
> 
> Both of them were autos. I know everyone on here hates them, but I've never had any problems and beat on them pretty good. The 096 in the sport had close to 300k and still shifted fine the last time I drove it. I'm not sure what my old chip had the rev-limiter set to, but i'd hit it's cutoff still pulling hard in 2nd and 3rd. I'd always downshift instead of braking too. With mods, you pretty much have to manually shift to get the power out of them or they'll shift too soon most of the time. A better chip tune would probably help that though.
> 
> Same with the 01M I'm driving now.


 Yeah, I spent.. quite a lot on my GT. I was so committed to N/A.. It was a decently quick car N/A! I would beat stock VR6's with it.. But I don't plan on building another N/A aba in the near future after being bitten by the boost bug! 

I've been working on getting my Corrado 8v swap done. It's going to be my new daily and I'm going with either Neuspeed S/C'd or just a moderately built (120whp or so) 2.0. 

My wife's old Golf (I've since gotten her a new MK6 golf GTI) had a 260* cam, i/h/e. It was an auto, and shifted at 5500 rpm. Then it got a 270* cam and a custom burnt TT chip.. It would shift at 6500 RPM every gear. That car was really reliable and didn't have tranny issues at all. I think the people who hate autos are doing neutral bombs and driving around spinning the tires all the time. Lol. It was actually pretty fast, a tad bit faster than my friends 5 spd Jetta with the same mods except for different muffler, no HD springs and a TT 266* cam. 

From what I've researched, 0-60 in a stock 8v auto is around 8.5 consistently. Standards are around 9-12, depending on the driver/launch/etc.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

I think I spent about two grand on my total build. Between hook ups and getting deal in the classifieds, I think I did pretty good. 


€


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> I think I spent about two grand on my total build. Between hook ups and getting deal in the classifieds, I think I did pretty good.
> 
> 
> €


  
Mine cost.. well, I'm not sure. It slowly progressed from bolt ons, DIY mk4 manifolds/bigger cams every week, to every part from any performance 8v catalog. 
If I add the latest build's big things up: 
276* cam = 180 
C2 chip = 150 
Adjustable camgear = 100 
Underdrive pulleys = ~100 
SRI = 700 
Headwork = only paid for supplies 
HD springs/titanium retainers = 250 
SS TT exhaust = 600 
TT race DP = 300 
K&N filter = 50 
Plug wires = 100 
90mm HG = ~80 
Various gaskets, lube, etc.. ~250 

..So, not too much was really spent on the last leg of the N/A build. What really cost alot was the BBM trans and the fact I didn't get many deals in the classifieds, not to mention all of the extra parts I had lying around (various cams, chips, exhaust parts, intake manifolds, etc..). 

It was all worth it in the end. :thumbup:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Let's see if I van remember....

cams= never paid more than $100 for cams
C2 chip = 180 x2
Adjustable camgear = free
Int gear= ~free
SRI = never paid over 200 for any of them
Headwork = 400 shipped for that stage 6.2 head from tmtuning
HD springs = 120
Titanium retainers = free
Jetex exhaust = 600
Header = 150
K&N filter = free
Magnecor Plug wires = 80
Various gaskets, lube, etc.. ~250

Plus various other things over the years.






€


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> SRI = never paid over 200 for any of them
> 
> 
> 
> €


  

If any company made a ABA SRI for 200 dollars it would be the biggest bang for the buck mod beside a big cam. 

You got awesome deals, Travis! I have owned pretty much every commercial cam profile for the ABA.. So many that I have bags in the garage marked with the cam profile/spec sheet with oil in them with lifters inside marked 1-8, so I know where they go and what cam they go to. :sly:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Well, to be fair, was pretty good friends with the guy who ran HKK Motorsports/SVI welding. (USRTs First Sri runs.) Greg also made all my aluminum ancillary parts too. 


€


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Well, to be fair, was pretty good friends with the guy who ran HKK Motorsports/SVI welding. (USRTs First Sri runs.) Greg also made all my aluminum ancillary parts too.
> 
> 
> €


 Ahh. Well, still a steal! 
I have my old SRI bolted onto the ABA on my engine stand, I'm building the motor (with all parts lying around the garage!) to put in my Corrado. Torn between my wife's 270* cam or my 276* cam. (obd1 head on obd2 block), I'm not upgrading valve springs because I don't have any extra sets and I am not buying any parts for this build except Corrado-specific parts that I don't have/gaskets (exhaust, intake, etc.). So, I'm afraid the 276* will be too rev-happy for the stock springs. Unless I advance the camgear to +8 or something, to lower the power band.. I love the 270* autotech cam. Such good over-all power, idle, and dd ability. 
Such a hard choice. 

I wish I could have used the SRI with my lysholm.. 20whp on N/A, who knows what I would have gained with the S/C on it. 

Colm


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Pretty sure I blew up the charger tonight. Two blocks from leaving work and there was a loud pop and screech. I was only going 25mph. Nowhere to pull over and coasted to curb on a busy street. Somehow the pulley on the turbine hit alternator pulley and seized up too. There wasn't much clearance so I was worried about it happening at some point but there was no play with the brackets or anything. Had to cut off the pulley drive belts (they were old anyway) and loosen the brackets so the pulleys weren't contacting and limped it home. Serpentine belt still had to be driven by the outer part of drive pulley. These things are grenades I guess. I'll figure out the damage tomorrow, but most likely needs a rebuild. The other one I have spins fine, but has a little shaft play and probably ready to blow too. Fun while it lasted :laugh:


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Shaft is completely seized. Not even sure how to take it apart. Seems like the pulley is pressed on and would need a puller. Going to try and rebuild it.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> Pretty sure I blew up the charger tonight. Two blocks from leaving work and there was a loud pop and screech. I was only going 25mph. Nowhere to pull over and coasted to curb on a busy street. Somehow the pulley on the turbine hit alternator pulley and seized up too. There wasn't much clearance so I was worried about it happening at some point but there was no play with the brackets or anything. Had to cut off the pulley drive belts (they were old anyway) and loosen the brackets so the pulleys weren't contacting and limped it home. Serpentine belt still had to be driven by the outer part of drive pulley. These things are grenades I guess. I'll figure out the damage tomorrow, but most likely needs a rebuild. The other one I have spins fine, but has a little shaft play and probably ready to blow too. Fun while it lasted :laugh:


 Jeez, that's weird. Clearance issues almost always = trouble in my case. I make it a point to build shields and stuff. Lol. 

If you can, make your own custom brackets out of good ol' steel. No wiggle room, you know? That's the enemy of superchargers anywho, you don't want any shaft-play and you don't want them to be able to wiggle. 

My lysholm is pretty sturdy, I still have my A/C/PS and I don't have any belt/clearance issues. 

Sorry to hear it's dead. Maybe you'll have better luck with the 2nd one. 
:wave:


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Well I really think the bearing just blew in it and then when it seized the shaft moved enough for the pulleys to contact. Definitely blew before I heard the pulleys hit and the shaft is sticking out more compared to other one. The brackets are sturdy and had no play. It goes through the alternator mounting points and three other longs bolts through the brackets. The pulley on charger and alternator are pretty much opposite of each other when it's mounted and a little less than 1/4" of clearance. It was making a little noise when I first installed, but hadn't since I adjusted drive belts. Just put fresh oil in it last weekend too.

I'm not going to bother with the other one. I took everything off this morning and now engine bay looks bare :laugh: Looking at rebuild, but previous owner welded mounting tab to both sides of housing so I have to cut it off to open it.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> I took everything off this morning and now engine bay looks bare :laugh: Looking at rebuild, but previous owner welded mounting tab to both sides of housing so I have to cut it off to open it.


 Dang.. That's a pain, dude. Maybe he was worried about clearance too? Lol. 

IKR?! When I was putting my BBM kit together I had the engine apart after installing my new cam, and when I put the MK4 manifold on I realized how the engine compartment looked naked without an airbox/battery.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

It only takes like 15 minutes to remove and install.

The mounting tab was just a weak part on the chargers. The spindle for the drive pulley attaches to it, and when the drive pulley bearings go, it rips the mounting tab off most of the time. Both have had it welded, just the one a little better and more crazier than the other. Drive pulley bearings were fine and I replaced brand new before installing.

I was running the one on the right. The drive pulley isn't attached here. There's a hole towards the center of the outer bracket where the alternator pulley comes through and has close clearance with pulley you see on charger.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> It only takes like 15 minutes to remove and install.
> 
> The mounting tab was just a weak part on the chargers. The spindle for the drive pulley attaches to it, and when the drive pulley bearings go, it rips the mounting tab off most of the time. Both have had it welded, just the one a little better and more crazier than the other. Drive pulley bearings were fine and I replaced brand new before installing.
> 
> I was running the one on the right. The drive pulley isn't attached here. There's a hole towards the center of the outer bracket where the alternator pulley comes through and has close clearance with pulley you see on charger.


 
Are these hard to find? I think I might pick one up. 

_It would make a nice substitute for a G60 if bolted onto an ABA for my Corrado.._ 

but more importantly, my wife would like another car beside her MK6. It would have to be a 4 door, quiet, and safe. I'm thinking a MK4 2.0 autotragic - I'd do either a Neuspeed S/C or a Zengineering (if you can convince me they're worth it!  ) and a 268/260 cam, a 2.25" exhaust that's dual resonated (quiet because my daughters are young, might be sleeping, etc..) and a C2 tune. 

I just want us to have a second car incase we ever needed it and had my if my daughters are with her - my Golf VR6 has a 3" exhaust, 268* cams, and isn't exactly children friendly, and neither is my GT.. Really, the only car she can drive the kids in is her GTI.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Yeah, they are pretty hard to find. I'm not sure how I got two of them so cheap, but probably cause they both weren't rebuilt like owners claimed. That or they are only good for like 4k miles after a rebuild like I've heard others say. I'd stay away from them just because you can't get spare parts. The cogged setup they had was superior to the standard dual-ribbed pulley too. I think they only upgraded them when they were sent in for warranty though. The people I've seen try selling them ask for high prices on rarity factor. There's one floating in the classifieds with a damaged impeller for $2k :screwy: 

This is their newer unit and runs around $3k for charger and bracket: 
http://www.ruf-kompressoren.com/wb/pages/en/products/rsc-supercharger.php?lang=EN 

I was quoted $250 for the bearings or $550 to send in for a rebuild from superchargerrebuild.com. I may send in the one with shaft play and then try to sell as complete kit, but it'll be over $1k. I used it as an excuse to purchase a press, so I'm going to see if the shaft or bearing housing is toast in the seized one. It was definitely cooking and started melting the belts.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

I would love to run a Zcharger on my ABA! 

do u run the c2 software or just an FMU?


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

The original kits either came with a TT or GIAC tune I believe. I have one of those and another tune from United Motorsports. Really any chip company should be able to write a tune for it. 

I forget if the one I was running was TT or GIAC, but I don't think it was tuned that well. I was throwing codes for my MAF after installing it. It's currently still installed with the charger removed and it's a little hesitant at times. CEL started flashing this morning too. I have to put the stock chip back in.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> Yeah, they are pretty hard to find. I'm not sure how I got two of them so cheap, but probably cause they both weren't rebuilt like owners claimed. That or they are only good for like 4k miles after a rebuild like I've heard others say. I'd stay away from them just because you can't get spare parts. The cogged setup they had was superior to the standard dual-ribbed pulley too. I think they only upgraded them when they were sent in for warranty though. The people I've seen try selling them ask for high prices on rarity factor. There's one floating in the classifieds with a damaged impeller for $2k :screwy:
> 
> This is their newer unit and runs around $3k for charger and bracket:
> http://www.ruf-kompressoren.com/wb/pages/en/products/rsc-supercharger.php?lang=EN
> ...


 Jeez. Guess they aren't too good afterall. I'm buying a Neuspeed Charger, the 2.6 pulley and a few other mild bolt ons. I'm trying to find a Higher trim level MK4 2.0 - one with nice seats and whatnot. But it's difficult to find anything other than a base model. :thumbdown:


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

I was happy with the power. Just got two that said they were rebuilt but weren't. There are others who've said they ran them for over 30k miles no problem. The guy from the one that seized said he never installed it and that P.O. he bought from said it was rebuilt with less than 5k miles on it. I tracked P.O. down and he said that he bought it from Azevedo Motorsports and that before he bought it from them, they told him it was rebuilt with around 5k on it. He said he ran it for 4 months more than 5 years ago with no problems, so it easily had at least double the mileage. 

I do know the guy I bought it from bought it in 2010 from the guy who ran it. Shortly after buying he was trying to sell it on here. I won it on ebay in 2011. Unfortunately I didn't dig up all this history until after I purchased it, otherwise I probably would have went with a bbm kit I was bidding on at same time. I only bought the second kit to have spare parts for the first. 

I'll give it one more shot with a known fresh rebuild, assuming the spindle and bearing housing is still good. If it blows up again then I will give up and consider it a $1k paper weight or sell to someone brave enough to run it.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> I was happy with the power. Just got two that said they were rebuilt but weren't. There are others who've said they ran them for over 30k miles no problem. The guy from the one that seized said he never installed it and that P.O. he bought from said it was rebuilt with less than 5k miles on it. I tracked P.O. down and he said that he bought it from Azevedo Motorsports and that before he bought it from them, they told him it was rebuilt with around 5k on it. He said he ran it for 4 months more than 5 years ago with no problems, so it easily had at least double the mileage.
> 
> I do know the guy I bought it from bought it in 2010 from the guy who ran it. Shortly after buying he was trying to sell it on here. I won it on ebay in 2011. Unfortunately I didn't dig up all this history until after I purchased it, otherwise I probably would have went with a bbm kit I was bidding on at same time. I only bought the second kit to have spare parts for the first.
> 
> I'll give it one more shot with a known fresh rebuild, assuming the spindle and bearing housing is still good. If it blows up again then I will give up and consider it a $1k paper weight or sell to someone brave enough to run it.


 Everyone says SOMETHING has been rebuilt _BY THE PO_. 
Tracking down a decent MK4 is hard. Wife's MK6 was in for service today, she had to use my GT all day to run errands. I'm hoping I can find a MK4 soon.. If I can't find an upper trim model 2.0, I'll buy a base model 2.0 and then find a wrecked 337 or GLI and take the interior out of that. :thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I was wondering if anyone has ran a TT 266* and an Autotech 270* in the same car with the same mods. They're similar yet different. They do give similar power gains, but which is the best? 
Specs: 

TT: 
@ .050" 
duration - 223* 
Lift - .448" 
Lobe Center - 112° 

Autotech: 
@ .050" 
Duration - 224* 
Lift - 0.449" 
Lobe Center - 112° 

Both very very similar. I've had both cams, and they're pretty much identical IMO.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Hurt said:


> I was wondering if anyone has ran a TT 266* and an Autotech 270* in the same car with the same mods. They're similar yet different. They do give similar power gains, but which is the best?
> Specs:
> 
> TT:
> ...


 The best one is the one you can buy the cheapest


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Prof315 said:


> The best one is the one you can buy the cheapest


 exactly. 

only difference you'll see would be on a dyno sheet.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> exactly.
> 
> only difference you'll see would be on a dyno sheet.












The Autotech is usually cheaper, and it's more aggressive by 1 whole point! lol 

I used the sale and bought a 270* for my corrado's build. If it'll fit, my SRI is going in there too. :thumbup: 

MK2 coupe is currently undergoing a VR6 swap.. Running into issues with wiring. It had an OBD2-software ABA in it - I got a OBD1 VR harness. Fail.. :banghead:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Corrado finally starts, after a 14 hour day spent in the garage trying to figure out why it wouldn't start. 2.0 with a decent cam and a SRI = sounds amazing. 

My Lysholm is too loud to hear the induction noise. I miss the growl of the SRI everyday.. 

Anyone else love the sound of a SRI? I think the SRI'd ABA's induction noise is one of the nicest, right up there with a good Honda B18c5 or something.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Would be better with pictures. 

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

AJmustDIE said:


> Would be better with pictures.
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2


 Wife isn't too happy with me because I "live in the garage". Couldn't document the engine swap, I really wanted to get it done and I didn't have time for taking pics. 

I am documenting the Suspension/interior/exterior build, probably, as I really fell in love with this Corrado. Trying to find a company that sells smoked/red tails. Tired of the factory amber/red. 

All the corrado guys said the 02a trans in the corrado wouldn't be too good mated to the ABA, but I think it's fine, and I've used 02a's in most of my 8v cars. They aren't much different than a CHE 020, really.. 
0-60 is around 7 seconds flat if I really slam the gears, and the engine mods are just: 
270* autotech cam 
Autotech HD valve springs 
3 angle valve job, head decked/milled 020" (mild) 
90mm Head Gasket 
ARP headstuds (had an extra set in my shop.. why not?) 
GIAC chip (obd1 ecu..) 
USRT SRI 
TT DP 
Custom 2.5" exhaust with a vibrant resonator and vibrant muffler. 
Air filter stuck on the end of the MAF until I can make a real CAI 
..That's about it. Only took it out for maybe an hour, want to do the suspension (koni red shocks with FK or weitec 60/40 springs) before I start dding it.. stock suspension is really shot, it's never been replaced before. 

~Colm


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

The ATA code O2A in a G60 is indeed very close to a CHE in terms of gearing. But the stouter gears eat more power than an O20 that's all.


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Hurt said:


> Anyone else love the sound of a SRI? I think the SRI'd ABA's induction noise is one of the nicest, right up there with a good Honda B18c5 or something.


 What an absolutely horrific thing to say!


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

ABA SRI's are sex...oh, sorry, got a little carried away. In honor of my vasectomy friday, and my current perciset/Stella Artois high, I will contribute with some SRI love. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_1OHIkYsXAw&feature=relmfu


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

911_fan said:


> In honor of my vasectomy friday,


wait.......what?:what: 


Man's birth control:laugh: dunno if i could do it! thought bout it but damn...


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> ABA SRI's are sex...oh, sorry, got a little carried away. In honor of my vasectomy friday, and my current perciset/Stella Artois high, I will contribute with some SRI love.
> 
> www.youtube.com/watch?v=_1OHIkYsXAw&feature=relmfu


 Vasectomy?!  

I've been trying to find someone who runs ITB's on a ABA but I can't find anyone. I bet they'd sound really good, too. :thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Here's one that sounds amazing with a SRI:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Hurt said:


> Vasectomy?!
> 
> I've been trying to find someone who runs ITB's on a ABA but I can't find anyone. I bet they'd sound really good, too. :thumbup:


 Yea, this baby achine is DONE. I want a Porsche, so Im done making kids. 

Here is Mendra's (WOLFgti) 20/20 swap in ITBs. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GbxMZeSV-Ao


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## The*Fall*Guy (Aug 10, 2009)

Where's the pics?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

The*Fall*Guy said:


> Where's the pics?


 Of what, my baseball size sack, or my new baby? lmao :laugh: 

FWIW, just had another boy 2 Fridays ago. Named him Cooper (Coupe') to continue the car theme. Jack, Cam, and Coupe'.


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

I'd like to nominate vr sri induction noise


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

weaksauce


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

lol vr6 lol 
aba>vr6 all day err day 

 
:laugh:


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## The*Fall*Guy (Aug 10, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Of what, my baseball size sack, or my new baby? lmao :laugh:
> 
> FWIW, just had another boy 2 Fridays ago. Named him Cooper (Coupe') to continue the car theme. Jack, Cam, and Coupe'.


 If you have a baseball sized sack; you might wanna get that checked out buddy. Elephantiasis is no laughing matter 

Congratulations on the baby though. Im old, and have been done for quite some time. My oldest graduated high school this year.:thumbup:


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

root beer said:


> I'd like to nominate vr sri induction noise


 I love my ABA but VR's sound the best! :beer:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> I love my ABA but VR's sound the best! :beer:


 VR6's exhausts do sound awesome. I think an ABA with a SRI intake sounds better than the intake noise of a modified VR6 - My 97 Golf is a full bolt on VR6 swap and it sounds good with my 3" MBS system with a Vibrant resonator (really quiets the VR down!) and a Flowmaster muffler, but.. it's only the exhaust that sounds good, in reality the engine sounds like poop IMO.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Some kid with a Jetta III GL with 2 DTM-style eBay fartcans on it along with an EVO VIII wing, no front lip, spray bomb paint job (ORANGE) and ricer fog lights pulled into a parking lot where me and a friend were hanging out.. Told me my "GT is slow, GTs are only 2.0s!" and my "PS belt is loose". Whining S/C =/= loose belt lol. He also said his engine is a "VW dual cam" and that they are only made them for Jetta III's, not Jettas. We asked him to elaborate.. "Autotechnology sells a 260 and 256 cam set. I beat Preludes and Hondas with it all day everyday.. Wanna race?" 

Granted he looked about 16. 
Sigh.. 

What is the world coming to? 

Gonna try to take some pictures of my GT and get some new pull videos up.. I am making way for better traction now with the new rims (16x8 RSs).. I want to run 225/50's or 225/45's or something.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Some kid with a Jetta III GL with 2 DTM-style eBay fartcans on it along with an EVO VIII wing, no front lip, spray bomb paint job (ORANGE) and ricer fog lights pulled into a parking lot where me and a friend were hanging out.. Told me my "GT is slow, GTs are only 2.0s!" and my "PS belt is loose". Whining S/C =/= loose belt lol. He also said his engine is a "VW dual cam" and that they are only made them for Jetta III's, not Jettas. We asked him to elaborate.. "Autotechnology sells a 260 and 256 cam set. I beat Preludes and Hondas with it all day everyday.. Wanna race?"
> 
> Granted he looked about 16.
> Sigh..
> ...


 hahaha 

yeh bring the ic: on


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Trying to work a 2 step into my ignition set up. Launch control would really help me with my horrible launches. 

Anyone ever wire up a 2step that actually works well?


----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

You don't need no launch control, just a little practice. Launch with your clutch, not the gas pedal. I can get detailed in pm if you want. It definitely doesn't help a bad technique. 

I did a 1.97 60' on kumhos, but i'll never try to launch on street tires again. 

But....wire in an MSD box, or go standalone. The wot boxes seem so worthless.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

root beer said:


> You don't need no launch control, just a little practice. Launch with your clutch, not the gas pedal. I can get detailed in pm if you want. It definitely doesn't help a bad technique.
> 
> I did a 1.97 60' on kumhos, but i'll never try to launch on street tires again.
> 
> But....wire in an MSD box, or go standalone. The wot boxes seem so worthless.


 I always mess the launch up. Always. I hold the clutch in @ 2000 RPM, and let go of the clutch and floor the gas, but I always end up slipping the clutch to like 3000RPM or more and just spinning instead of getting a tiny bit of wheel hop and then I grab and go. It's a pain. Fine tuning my suspension at my friends instruction helped (koni yellows [1f 5r], Neuspeed race springs), and I got wider tires (225/45/16's), so it's capable of launching pretty well. I'm just bad at launching consistently. :banghead: 
I'd definitely appreciate any advice you can give me! :thumbup:


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Anyone know the "real" reason why the ABA's redline is 6400 on most 93-95 OBD1 cars, and OBD2 cars are at 6200? I'm thinking maybe it's because of the oil squirters, the better flowing head and the slightly more aggressive cam.. I'm sure I'm probably wrong. But.. If anyone knows, let me know. I really like how the bubble cluster looks. 

It's a shame I can't find anyone to make me custom gauge faces. I want a 140 MPH speedo going up by 10's, like the MK2.. and the tach has to go up to 8, since my redline is 7000, and it'll go to around 7500 if I let it. 
I wish I could get my coupe's old cluster (switched to a VR cluster) to work in my GT. That'd be ideal, except for the top speed.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

There is no other reason other than different versions of Motronic. Motor makes no power after 4500 rpms regardless of year.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

911_fan said:


> There is no other reason other than different versions of Motronic. Motor makes no power after 4500 rpms regardless of year.


 good point


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> There is no other reason other than different versions of Motronic. Motor makes no power after 4500 rpms regardless of year.


 Are you sure? I know about the no power part, but it's odd for a manufacturer to just change the cluster redline randomly. It seems a bit odd, even if they changed to OBD2. It's a little weird.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Are you sure? I know about the no power part, but it's odd for a manufacturer to just change the cluster redline randomly. It seems a bit odd, even if they changed to OBD2. It's a little weird.


 RAN LOW ON INK :laugh:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Hurt said:


> Are you sure? I know about the no power part, but it's odd for a manufacturer to just change the cluster redline randomly. It seems a bit odd, even if they changed to OBD2. It's a little weird.


 Where the red paint starts on the gauge face is irrelevant considering the rev limiter kicks in waaaaay before the needle would ever get there.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Where the red paint starts on the gauge face is irrelevant considering the rev limiter kicks in waaaaay before the needle would ever get there.


 I suppose. MK3 rev limits are weird. Some stock cars I've had have a limiter as soon as it hits the red (6200) and some will go way past that.. It's mostly the early cars that go past 6200, 93-95 and some 96's. It's such an odd thing.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Who in there right mind would take a stock 2.0 past 5000rpms?!. Talk Bout trying to get blood from a stone!


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Who in there right mind would take a stock 2.0 past 5000rpms?!. Talk Bout trying to get blood from a stone!


My little cousin has a 2.0 Jetta. It has a cone filter, a big, crush bent, louuuud exhaust, and a "tuned chip". Now, I had a Scirocco 2.0 16v at the time of this wonderful story.

He considered his car very fast. He revved it off the tach. Past 7k. He thought it was the fastest thing in the world, and that because my Scirocco's readline was 7k, his could rev that high too! "same 2.0 engine, dude!". :banghead:

So yeah, some people don't understand peak power isn't always the highest RPM the engine will go.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Travis, I was wondering how your MPG was with your old N/A build. The 288* cam one. My daily got around 20 MPG before I switched to FI, and now I get 25! I think part of it is not having to shift at 4k RPM and being able to cruise in a higher gear than usual..


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

On summer blended 93oct, I was getting about 28-30mpg average. (about 380ish per tank?)
I could squeeze out more with the 276* only because it didn't have to drive it to 4000rpms every time I wanted the power.


----------



## jettred3 (Aug 5, 2005)

911_fan said:


> On summer blended 93oct, I was getting about 28-30mpg average. (about 380ish per tank?)
> I could squeeze out more with the 276* only because it didn't have to drive it to 4000rpms every time I wanted the power.


This makes me happy will be running 276 .114 w/ PTE5573 and intermanicooler, sounds like this cam has a wide powerband, did you ever play with advancing and retarding timing?


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

jettred3 said:


> This makes me happy will be running 276 .114 w/ PTE5573 and intermanicooler, sounds like this cam has a wide powerband, did you ever play with advancing and retarding timing?


I have the 276* wide lobe center (114) cam in my car. It pulls hard from 2k to the cut off. Set to 0* right now until I get dyno time to mess with the camgear.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> VR6's exhausts do sound awesome. I think an ABA with a SRI intake sounds better than the intake noise of a modified VR6 - My 97 Golf is a full bolt on VR6 swap and it sounds good with my 3" MBS system with a Vibrant resonator (really quiets the VR down!) and a Flowmaster muffler, but.. it's only the exhaust that sounds good, in reality the engine sounds like poop IMO.


what aspect of the exhaust? Isnt it pretty similiar to the ABA exhaust setup (Excluding the Header)

_I think it has more to do with those two extra cylinders_


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> what aspect of the exhaust? Isnt it pretty similiar to the ABA exhaust setup (Excluding the Header)
> 
> _I think it has more to do with those two extra cylinders_


I just meant the exhaust tone, not the exhaust size/tubing/mufflers/etc. 

My VR6 Golf was sold to a 15 year old kid's mom. She bought it for my asking price.. for the kids first car. I didn't want to sell them it. I'm afraid the kid will hurt himself.. 

VR6 exhaust>ABA exhaust in terms of sound IMO.


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Hurt said:


> I just meant the exhaust tone, not the exhaust size/tubing/mufflers/etc.
> VR6 exhaust>ABA exhaust in terms of sound IMO.


I won't own a VR6 powered VW but I do LOVE the sound of a VR exhaust.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

The distinct sound comes from the unequal length intake/exhaust. 

Same reason why the Subie sounds like it does...the exhaust manifold. But put an equal lengthen header on it, and it sounds like any other 4 banger. Oh, and Mazdas do the same thing I think.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> The distinct sound comes from the unequal length intake/exhaust.
> 
> Same reason why the Subie sounds like it does...the exhaust manifold. But put an equal lengthen header on it, and it sounds like any other 4 banger. Oh, and Mazdas do the same thing I think.


:thumbup:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

911_fan said:


> The distinct sound comes from the unequal length intake/exhaust.
> 
> Same reason why the Subie sounds like it does...the exhaust manifold. But put an equal lengthen header on it, and it sounds like any other 4 banger. Oh, and Mazdas do the same thing I think.


equal length headers wont change that on the VR. the port lengths/size/shape are drastically different.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

^o snap


& 298 cam on ebay!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-8v-mk2-m...rts&hash=item35bef3d1d2&vxp=mtr#ht_500wt_1204


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> ^o snap
> 
> 
> & 298 cam on ebay!
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-8v-mk2-m...rts&hash=item35bef3d1d2&vxp=mtr#ht_500wt_1204


I saw that cam FS too. I don't like running used cams. Especially if they aren't mine.. And I always mark the lifters with 1-8, so I can put them back in their respective spot in the new engine. 
Used cams FTL, IMO..


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> I saw that cam FS too. I don't like running used cams. Especially if they aren't mine.. And I always mark the lifters with 1-8, so I can put them back in their respective spot in the new engine.
> Used cams FTL, IMO..


hmm I know Travis has ran used cams with no issues, you just run new lifters....


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> hmm I know Travis has ran used cams with no issues, you just run new lifters....


Oh, I know people do it, I just don't personally feel comfortable with it. I'm a OCD freak. 

Anyone have experience with welding chargepiping? Good idea or bad? I have too many hose clamps, I'd rather weld a few of them up.. Blew a hose clamp/coupler off my intercooler today during a "spirited" drive with a friend Jessica's VF S/C corrado on some back roads in CT. Thought I blew the lysholm up!  
Never, EVER had this happen before on any of my boosted 2.0's or boosted cars for that matter!

Also, anyone have any experience running a CRY02 intercooler spray bar kit? I have one in the garage sitting, I figure I could really use it. Air intake temps get pretty hot sometimes.. But winter is coming, and the GT will be put in storage, so.. Idk. Anyone got any ideas? I also saw they make a kit that sprays C02 in the intake tubing to cool the air temp down! They have some neat things. :thumbup:


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Oh, I know people do it, I just don't personally feel comfortable with it. I'm a OCD freak.
> 
> Anyone have experience with welding chargepiping? Good idea or bad? I have too many hose clamps, I'd rather weld a few of them up.. Blew a hose clamp/coupler off my intercooler today during a "spirited" drive with a friend Jessica's VF S/C corrado on some back roads in CT. Thought I blew the lysholm up!
> Never, EVER had this happen before on any of my boosted 2.0's or boosted cars for that matter!
> ...


Welding charge piping is a great way to reduce the number of hose clamps on an FI system. Then use T-bolt clamps for the silicone couplers you retain and the set up will be just about trouble free.

Or you could also go V-band.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Hurt said:


> I saw that cam FS too. I don't like running used cams.


Looks new and says it's new/unused. My 272 cat cam (really 280/278) was lopey enough. I couldn't imagine what that cam would sound like.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

zero. said:


> Looks new and says it's new/unused. My 272 cat cam (really 280/278) was lopey enough. I couldn't imagine what that cam would sound like.


yeh its new, also doesn't say its a TT brand 298, I thought they were the only one who made the 298 Hydro 8v cam... I messaged him though... 

If I could pick this up on the cheap I would build a head just for it!


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Here's a video of a TT 298...Lope at idle sounds just about the same as my old cat cam. It's a sound I don't necessarily miss...lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkBkULLfQ-0


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> Looks new and says it's new/unused. My 272 cat cam (really 280/278) was lopey enough. I couldn't imagine what that cam would sound like.


My coupe had the 298* TT cam in it when it put down 160whp. The cam pulled like a freight train from 4k rpm up. Cutoff was 8500 RPM, and it pulled to 8k without problems. 

The idle sounded great! I had it set to 1000 even, and I didn't have very many problems, it would occasionally try to stall and bump up to 1100, but no big deal. It sounded really really good with my 70mm straight pipe, trying to find videos of the first start up/pulls. My friend that owns it now has a custom cam. I think it's a 308*. 2.1l stroker.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Oh, I know people do it, I just don't personally feel comfortable with it. I'm a OCD freak.
> 
> Anyone have experience with welding chargepiping? Good idea or bad? I have too many hose clamps, I'd rather weld a few of them up.. Blew a hose clamp/coupler off my intercooler today during a "spirited" drive with a friend Jessica's VF S/C corrado on some back roads in CT. Thought I blew the lysholm up!
> Never, EVER had this happen before on any of my boosted 2.0's or boosted cars for that matter!
> ...


yes weld as much as you can (making sure install/removal is still doable) cause nothing sucks more than when your 8v is walking a c5 z06 on the highway and a boost coupler blows off.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> My coupe had the 298* TT cam in it when it put down 160whp. The cam pulled like a freight train from 4k rpm up. Cutoff was 8500 RPM, and it pulled to 8k without problems.
> 
> The idle sounded great! I had it set to 1000 even, and I didn't have very many problems, it would occasionally try to stall and bump up to 1100, but no big deal. It sounded really really good with my 70mm straight pipe, trying to find videos of the first start up/pulls. My friend that owns it now has a custom cam. I think it's a 308*. 2.1l stroker.


how built was your head and how much compression were you running?


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> yes weld as much as you can (making sure install/removal is still doable) cause nothing sucks more than when your 8v is walking a c5 z06 on the highway and a boost coupler blows off.


 I'm pretty sure I can weld _most_ of them up. If I want to take it apart, I _think_ I can take it all off in one big piece by undoing 2 couplers at the Intake Manifold, and at the Lysholm, and taking the front clip of the car off and removing the intercooler with it.. Going to do a few tests before deciding what to weld. 



vacuumnoise said:


> how built was your head and how much compression were you running?


Compression was upwards of 11:1 with the shaved head and the 90mm head gasket. Never had any problems running 93 octane gas.
It was an OBD1 cylinderhead. It was decked/milled .050", was heavily ported and had a 5 angle valve job and TT's 42/35mm valve kit with HD/High rev springs and titanium retainers. The headwork was the one part of the build I didn't do myself, I have a friend that does it and he is very, very good with VW heads (he's the one who owns the coupe now).


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> I'm pretty sure I can weld _most_ of them up. If I want to take it apart, I _think_ I can take it all off in one big piece by undoing 2 couplers at the Intake Manifold, and at the Lysholm, and taking the front clip of the car off and removing the intercooler with it.. Going to do a few tests before deciding what to weld.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



sick! Thats pretty much what Id like to do, same head build actually!

298 cam 160whp

I wonder how it would correspond with the 288, then the 276 with the same mods... 

150whp...

140whp... 


:beer:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

btw i love to see those video pulls back when u were running the 298!


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> sick! Thats pretty much what Id like to do, same head build actually!
> 
> 298 cam 160whp
> 
> ...


My coupe's head was modified to the point of no return. Lol. Any sort of performance mod that could have been done to that engine was done. Down to spending 70 something dollars on a freaking intake manifold gasket (NS powergasket). I wonder what it could have put down with a smaller cam sometimes, but I put down 135WHP in my daily 8v with a 276*. I'm not sure entirely what my coupe would have done with a 276*, because I went from a 270* to a 288* with it. Then I broke an 02a, went to the BBM 6 speed, and went to a 298*. Dyno'd, but didn't get a chance to track it again before it was sold.. It was fun. 
The car weighed less than 1800lbs. The guy who owns it now put down over 200. I'm going to give him a ring and see what his cam specs are, and the motor specs too. I'm pretty sure he's using an 02a with a 4.24 R/P still.. That car is a rocket. He brought it up to Maple Valley and it did very, very well. I'm pretty sure he runs Bilstein Race struts.. I don't know about springs. A lot has changed since it left my garage. 

I'm trying to hunt down some videos. I'm pretty sure I took some Auto-X videos, but my wife taped them so they aren't the best. Man, that car was nimble. It had H&R RACE springs and Bilstein Struts.. Love that car. Since I sold my VR6 Golf I may end up buying it back for.. well, I could buy 2 Honda S2000's or a BRZ for what he wants..


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> My coupe's head was modified to the point of no return. Lol. Any sort of performance mod that could have been done to that engine was done. Down to spending 70 something dollars on a freaking intake manifold gasket (NS powergasket). I wonder what it could have put down with a smaller cam sometimes, but I put down 135WHP in my daily 8v with a 276*. I'm not sure entirely what my coupe would have done with a 276*, because I went from a 270* to a 288* with it. Then I broke an 02a, went to the BBM 6 speed, and went to a 298*. Dyno'd, but didn't get a chance to track it again before it was sold.. It was fun.
> The car weighed less than 1800lbs. The guy who owns it now put down over 200. I'm going to give him a ring and see what his cam specs are, and the motor specs too. I'm pretty sure he's using an 02a with a 4.24 R/P still.. That car is a rocket. He brought it up to Maple Valley and it did very, very well. I'm pretty sure he runs Bilstein Race struts.. I don't know about springs. A lot has changed since it left my garage.
> 
> I'm trying to hunt down some videos. I'm pretty sure I took some Auto-X videos, but my wife taped them so they aren't the best. Man, that car was nimble. It had H&R RACE springs and Bilstein Struts.. Love that car. Since I sold my VR6 Golf I may end up buying it back for.. well, I could buy 2 Honda S2000's or a BRZ for what he wants..



haha, crazy


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Took apart my GT today. Welding up most of the chargepiping tomorrow, hopefully! No more blowing the hose clamps off. :thumbup:


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Discovered that my friend's PCV set up (or lack thereof) on her 2.0 GTI doesn't work very well (It's a cone filter on the end of the TB, lol). I need to find a stock ABA intake boot and fix it. The filter was full of oil. If anyone has a stock ABA intake arm that they're looking to sell, let me know. :thumbup:

Also, I looked at a cam today that measured out to be 264* duration @ .050.. WTF? I'm gonna try to get the owner to measure it again to be sure.. I think it's just a 266*, but I can't be sure.


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

I had my former boss's SCCA 97 GTi on the dyno for tuning yesterday. We got some VERY pleasantly surprising results... Stock OBD1 engine built to SCCA Improved Touring specs, so 10.5 to 1 compression, good valve job, CAI, OBX header and tuned exhaust, MSD coil. We wound up with 139wtq and 129whp burning 98 Octane no-lead and an MS3 for management!  This was done on a Superflo dyno. It was my first time using a steady state dyno, Ohhhh I LIKE IT!!!! it took me under 5 minutes to have the car dialed in.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Prof315 said:


> I had my former boss's SCCA 97 GTi on the dyno for tuning yesterday. We got some VERY pleasantly surprising results... Stock OBD1 engine built to SCCA Improved Touring specs, so 10.5 to 1 compression, good valve job, CAI, OBX header and tuned exhaust, MSD coil. We wound up with 139wtq and 129whp burning 98 Octane no-lead and an MS3 for management!  This was done on a Superflo dyno. It was my first time using a steady state dyno, Ohhhh I LIKE IT!!!! it took me under 5 minutes to have the car dialed in.


Sounds like MegaSquirt has a lot of benifits for the ABA.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Prof315 said:


> I had my former boss's SCCA 97 GTi on the dyno for tuning yesterday. We got some VERY pleasantly surprising results... Stock OBD1 engine built to SCCA Improved Touring specs, so 10.5 to 1 compression, good valve job, CAI, OBX header and tuned exhaust, MSD coil. We wound up with 139wtq and 129whp burning 98 Octane no-lead and an MS3 for management!  This was done on a Superflo dyno. It was my first time using a steady state dyno, Ohhhh I LIKE IT!!!! it took me under 5 minutes to have the car dialed in.



sick! stock cam?


I had this *dream* last night I installed a 288 cam on stock single springs, it drove good but I was scared to rev it past 5k... but that power from 4-5k felt really good  hahaha


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> sick! stock cam?
> 
> 
> I had this *dream* last night I installed a 288 cam on stock single springs, it drove good but I was scared to rev it past 5k... but that power from 4-5k felt really good  hahaha


Stock ODB2 Cam (it's a slightly better profile than the OBD1 cam) 32* max timing. And heres the real craziness..... 130+wtq from 2600-5200rpm! HP peaked at 5600. Pulled to 6200

I LOVE long rod motors! You can take the O6A blocks and shove em...:laugh:


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Sounds like MegaSquirt has a lot of benifits for the ABA.


It does but the real key is MS3. Best ignition control algorithms anywhere, any SEM.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Prof315 said:


> Stock ODB2 Cam (it's a slightly better profile than the OBD1 cam) 32* max timing. And heres the real craziness..... 130+wtq from 2600-5200rpm! HP peaked at 5600. Pulled to 6200
> 
> I LOVE long rod motors! You can take the O6A blocks and shove em...:laugh:


incredible!


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Prof315 said:


> Stock ODB2 Cam (it's a slightly better profile than the OBD1 cam) 32* max timing. And heres the real craziness..... 130+wtq from 2600-5200rpm! HP peaked at 5600. Pulled to 6200


Amazing. You down to come out to MA and tune my Corrado? :laugh:

I'm just running a 270* cam, a very-mildly done head, my SRI, full exhaust, and a PEM. I get 25MPG with it when I drive it, and I'm using stock suspension lol.


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Amazing. You down to come out to MA and tune my Corrado? :laugh:
> 
> I'm just running a 270* cam, a very-mildly done head, my SRI, full exhaust, and a PEM. I get 25MPG with it when I drive it, and I'm using stock suspension lol.


Buy an MS3 and fly me up!


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Wish I had MS3 on my old car instead of a canned tune.


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Wish I had MS3 on my old car instead of a canned tune.


I keep trying to tell everyone, canned tunes SUCK! Yeah yeah, I know, emissions testing, especially on OBD2 cars. But that's why M & L EFI offers custom P&Ps.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Wish I had MS3 on my old car instead of a canned tune.


Me too. Thinking 135whp would have been 150+ on MS3.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I'm debating putting a cannon looking muffler on the back of my GT's exhaust. It's too freaking loud. This muffler is what I'm going to probably get, I like the dual tip look. It's fully adjustable for noise, there's basically a throttle plate inside the muffler that makes it straight through or closed when and if you want it to .. Anyone think this will actually work/look nice?


----------



## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Is the cost of something like that even worth it? And I wonder how long the "throttle" mechanism will remain moveable in some parts of the country on a car driven year round.


----------



## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

The outer diameter of body is a couple inches bigger than other replacements and I don't know if that's also including the throttle thing on top. You might have to hang it low just for that cause it looks like it'd need a couple inches of clearance.


----------



## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Looks like the car's weight dist will shift to the rear a bit.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

ps2375 said:


> Looks like the car's weight dist will shift to the rear a bit.


haha, yeh i wouldnt run that, just run another resonator (or two)


----------



## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Basically it allows straight through or chambered. For $500, I'd pass and just get an OEM muffler from dealer parts outlet for $60 if quiet is what you want. That or weld a resonator on straight pipe after cat and/or before current muffler. I had to do two 4" resonators on my old setup before cause of cops, and honestly they really didn't quiet it much.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> Basically it allows straight through or chambered. For $500, I'd pass and just get an OEM muffler from dealer parts outlet for $60 if quiet is what you want. That or weld a resonator on straight pipe after cat and/or before current muffler. I had to do two 4" resonators on my old setup before cause of cops, and honestly they really didn't quiet it much.


Yeah, I'm thinking of adding a Vibrant resonator in that pipe. I had one in my GTI and it quieted it down very nicely.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> Basically it allows straight through or chambered. For $500, I'd pass and just get an OEM muffler from dealer parts outlet for $60 if quiet is what you want. That or weld a resonator on straight pipe after cat and/or before current muffler. I had to do two 4" resonators on my old setup before cause of cops, and honestly they really didn't quiet it much.


Yeah, I'm just getting a resonator after all. 500 dollars for a muffler isn't worth it. It's a 14" Vibrant-Performance Resonator, and it's only 90 dollars. The same resonator I had on my VR6 GTI. It really got rid of the VR6's signature-raspy-sound. It sounded awesome with the Vibrant/Flowmaster set up!

I'm hoping I will still be able to hear the distinct Magnaflow-and-8v sound from my GT, though. I may even end up putting on 2 14"s, if one isn't enough. I don't like being droned half to death when I'm cruising on I-91 at 3k RPM! 

Anywho, I recently purchased a 2004 Jetta 2.0 Auto. It's my wife's secondary car. I'm putting on a Neuspeed S/C, no question about that. Anyone have experience with the 2.0 8v MK4 cars? I don't want it to be unreliable.. I can't decide on how to set it up. I'm thinking a 2.25" exhaust, a small cam like a 260/256, and the Neuspeed charger with the higher PSI pulley. That should keep her satisfied and really shouldn't feel _that_ much different from her MK6 GTI in terms of power. Anyone have any insight on the MK4's best mods while retaining dd-ability?

Thanks guys.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Yeah, I'm just getting a resonator after all. 500 dollars for a muffler isn't worth it. It's a 14" Vibrant-Performance Resonator, and it's only 90 dollars. The same resonator I had on my VR6 GTI. It really got rid of the VR6's signature-raspy-sound. It sounded awesome with the Vibrant/Flowmaster set up!
> 
> I'm hoping I will still be able to hear the distinct Magnaflow-and-8v sound from my GT, though. I may even end up putting on 2 14"s, if one isn't enough. I don't like being droned half to death when I'm cruising on I-91 at 3k RPM!
> 
> ...



yeh Ive heard the CEL on Mk4s comes on much easier than Mk3s, anything bigger than a 260...

Not trying to thread hi-jack but:
if anyone has a* TT 268/260* cam especially with lifters they want to sell, def hit me up 


:snowcool:


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> yeh Ive heard the CEL on Mk4s comes on much easier than Mk3s, anything bigger than a 260...
> 
> Not trying to thread hi-jack but:
> if anyone has a* TT 268/260* cam especially with lifters they want to sell, def hit me up
> ...


Yeah, the CEL has been on since I got it. I hate MK4's. It feels like a boat compared to my MK3. 

I have a 268/260 that I'm using for the MK4. If I decide to go with a smaller cam, I'll let you know. :thumbup:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

^

cool, thanks


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

another weird cam on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Web-racing-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item20ca5732b9&vxp=mtr

theyr calling it a 278 but as far as I can tell it seems a bit bigger than a 268 cam...

what do you guys think, should I pick it up?? :beer:

stock springs handle it?


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> another weird cam on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Web-racing-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item20ca5732b9&vxp=mtr
> 
> theyr calling it a 278 but as far as I can tell it seems a bit bigger than a 268 cam...
> 
> ...


Looks like it's slightly bigger than TT's 268* in terms of duration, same 110* lobe center and nearly the same lift. I wouldn't run it on stock springs unless it's an OBD1 cylinder head.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Looks like it's slightly bigger than TT's 268* in terms of duration, same 110* lobe center and nearly the same lift. I wouldn't run it on stock springs unless it's an OBD1 cylinder head.


word

.441

gotta upgrade my springs, but if I did I would probably just run the 270 or 276 cam... 

I'm really edging for some more horspower!


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> word
> 
> .441
> 
> ...


Go for the 276*. Sooo much more HP than the 270*. I have a 270* in my Corrado and it doesn't feel any different than stock until after 3k RPM, when it really takes off until 7k RPM (high power-peak due to my SRI and my camgear setting). 

I also had a 270* in my wife's old MK3, and it was an automatic. Not really that big of a cam. I wouldn't bother changing valve springs for a 260* to 270* swap, but for a 276*, I'd pay the extra 200 dollars and get HD valve springs.. You'll actually use the high revving capabilities of them with the 276*. :thumbup:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Go for the 276*. Sooo much more HP than the 270*. I have a 270* in my Corrado and it doesn't feel any different than stock until after 3k RPM, when it really takes off until 7k RPM (high power-peak due to my SRI and my camgear setting).
> 
> I also had a 270* in my wife's old MK3, and it was an automatic. Not really that big of a cam. I wouldn't bother changing valve springs for a 260* to 270* swap, but for a 276*, I'd pay the extra 200 dollars and get HD valve springs.. You'll actually use the high revving capabilities of them with the 276*. :thumbup:


hmm, well I've heard of people running stock single springs with the 270 but it still seems frowned upon...


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> hmm, well I've heard of people running stock single springs with the 270 but it still seems frowned upon...


It's a bad idea. Trust me.. I know AutoTech recommends the HD spring kit for OBD2 engines even with their 260/256! Do it once the right way. Here's a quote from Travis's thread about the subject.

"The lift of the stock OBDII cam is .417". Deducting the .417" lift to the installed spring height looks like this:










As you can see, the lift of the stock cam brings the spring to the edge of lift distance that's left. The coils on both the bottom and top are binding. Due to the nature of the coils, one side is more compressed than the other. One side of the spring is fulled binding, while the other side has some space left to compress. As you go with higher and higher lift, that space decreases rather quickly. For a cam with a .432" lift (260*, 268/260*, ect) the space between the middle coils is about .017". For those lazy ones that run an Autotech 270 (.449" lift), the space left between the middle coils is about .008". Add to that the higher rpms run with these larger cams and you got a recipe for disaster. Once the spring fully binds, you put excessive wear on the nose of the cam lobe which increases wear and eventual failure. "


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I want to try a KENT camshaft really bad.. They look pretty promising by their spec sheets.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

The only thing you'll get by spending $300+ on a Kent cam is having the word Kent list in you mod list in your signature. There is a reason nobody on this side of the Pond runs them. You can get the same performance with a comparable duration for half the price.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> The only thing you'll get by spending $300+ on a Kent cam is having the word Kent list in you mod list in your signature. There is a reason nobody on this side of the Pond runs them. You can get the same performance with a comparable duration for half the price.


Yeah.. This is why I haven't bought one.

For now, I'm satisfied with my current projects (corrado and MK4 2.0) Corrado = Autotech 270, MK4 = TT 268/260. Going to put the Neuspeed charger on the MK4 tomorrow, since I got my ECU back tonight! It was sitting on the front porch all day, literally. I didn't even notice.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

bump for the forum


----------



## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

So I'm going to order that kit Autotech makes with the 270 cam, lifters, springs and retainers. Along with valve stem seals while I'm in there.

Question is, which cam do you think would suit my Neuspeed charger better, a 268/260 or the 270?
I was leaning towards the 270 just because it comes in the kit making everything easier. But I also heard the 268 is good for boost applications, would that really make a difference with only 6psi though? Also, should I order new valve keepers or just reuse?


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Alingarhs said:


> So I'm going to order that kit Autotech makes with the 270 cam, lifters, springs and retainers. Along with valve stem seals while I'm in there.
> 
> Question is, which cam do you think would suit my Neuspeed charger better, a 268/260 or the 270?
> I was leaning towards the 270 just because it comes in the kit making everything easier. But I also heard the 268 is good for boost applications, would that really make a difference with only 6psi though? Also, should I order new valve keepers or just reuse?


The difference will be minimal running such low boost. The 270* is actually pretty good for boost. You can reuse the keepers, but they're so cheap I usually buy new ones.. 

If you don't want to spend the money on the HD springs/retainers that come with the Autotech kit, just buy the 268/260 and new lifters. It'll be fine with stock valve springs.


----------



## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

Cool, thanks for the feedback, I ended up ordering the 268/260 just in case I ever go turbo. Here is what I got.
TT 268/260 Camshaft
Camshaft seal
Timing belt kit
Lifters (8)
Valve keepers (16)
Valve retainers (8)
Valve seats (8)
Valve stem seals (8)
HD valve springs (8)
valve cover gasket
Assembly lube


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

you dont really need the HD springs for the TT 268/260 Camshaft... but it cant hurt... GL with yr build 
:beer:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Alingarhs said:


> Cool, thanks for the feedback, I ended up ordering the 268/260 just in case I ever go turbo. Here is what I got.
> TT 268/260 Camshaft
> Camshaft seal
> Timing belt kit
> ...


You're welcome. The 268/260 feels really good in my wife's MK4 2.0 with a Neuspeed charger with the smaller Neuspeed pulley. ~8psi feels pretty good, but it still has the stock exhaust on it because I'm waiting for my 42dd system to come in. :banghead:


----------



## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

Which pully? The 2.6? That's what I have, don't have a gauge in yet to see what I actually am doing but I thought the 2.6 did 1.5psi more than the 2.8 (5psi?)

Edit: I know I didn't need the HD springs, but I read somewhere that although not needed, they do help a little bit up top on the rpm's. I don't know how creditable this is, but I thought I might as well replace them just in case. Like you said, cant hurt.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Alingarhs said:


> Which pully? The 2.6? That's what I have, don't have a gauge in yet to see what I actually am doing but I thought the 2.6 did 1.5psi more than the 2.8 (5psi?)
> 
> Edit: I know I didn't need the HD springs, but I read somewhere that although not needed, they do help a little bit up top on the rpm's. I don't know how creditable this is, but I thought I might as well replace them just in case. Like you said, cant hurt.


Yeah, the 2.6" Pulley. It's a New South match-mk4-lights-gauge, sitting on 7.5-8 PSI at WOT, automatic trans. When you floor it from a stop it spins, shifts into 2nd, the wheels keep spinning for a little and when they grip it downshifts and you go. It's pretty fun, lol. Exhaust came on UPS, I'll be installing that in a few (2.5" MBS system). The 268/260 cam in it doesn't pull past 6500 RPM, really. The S/C helps in the high-end quite a bit, though. It tricks you into thinking the car is still making power.

They [the HD springs] do help in the upper RPM. They won't be prone to binding at all with the small lift of the 268/260, but with stock springs revs past 6k things are starting to get overworked, sort of. You probably won't want to take the car past 6.5k RPM anyway, I don't think it'll make anymore power up there than at the usual peak of a cammed/turbo aba ~6000. But yeah, they wont hurt.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Someone buy my 2.0 Corrado. 

I got a steal on a MINT 94' Tornado Red GLS.. 4 wheel disc (non ABS!), power everything, bubble cluster (score!) and a lot more nifty stuff. Heated seats, too!!

No rot, paint is MINT, and the car only has 60k miles on it! I paid.. well, it begins with a 1, and it's 4 digits long.. Okay, it cost 1,000. That's all. It needs an exhaust system, the rear windows don't work (regulators, probably), and a clutch (driven by a teenage girl for the past 10k miles) if I do the clutch, I am going to swap in a 02a transmission, too. Or a late 16v 020.

This car will be getting a C2 turbo set up, my SRI, suspension, new interior (I hate non-bolster seats) and full exhaust.. I have to order a lot of parts. If anyone wants my Corrado, let me know :thumbup:


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## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

So I am trying to decide which chip I should go with, Neuspeed's chip tunes suck and I don't want to drop $300 on a C2 tune. So that leaves me with a choice between TT and BFI.

Also it makes sense to get a tune for the 268/260 camshaft, this wont be a problem if paired with the SC will it?


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Someone buy my 2.0 Corrado.
> 
> I got a steal on a MINT 94' Tornado Red GLS.. 4 wheel disc (non ABS!), power everything, bubble cluster (score!) and a lot more nifty stuff. Heated seats, too!!
> 
> ...


how much for the Corrado? Also we need pix, cant stress that enough ... ic:


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> how much for the Corrado? Also we need pix, cant stress that enough ... ic:


x2


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Alingarhs said:


> So I am trying to decide which chip I should go with, Neuspeed's chip tunes suck and I don't want to drop $300 on a C2 tune. So that leaves me with a choice between TT and BFI.
> 
> Also it makes sense to get a tune for the 268/260 camshaft, this wont be a problem if paired with the SC will it?


BFI chips are C2 tunes. Really. BFI vends for C2.

TT's chips are pretty cheap, and they are pretty nice. But for 25 extra (bfi's price), I'd go with the C2.

Now, if you're going to get a S/C kit.. You can't run this. You'll have FI software instead.


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## My Big (Dec 26, 2010)

vacuumnoise said:


> how much for the Corrado? Also we need pix, cant stress that enough ... ic:


i'll buy the corrado for 45 large if you wanna get rid of it...if it comes with the long runner manifold... im in town m,t,w,f,s.. so let me know kiddo.


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## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

Hurt said:


> BFI chips are C2 tunes. Really. BFI vends for C2.
> 
> TT's chips are pretty cheap, and they are pretty nice. But for 25 extra (bfi's price), I'd go with the C2.
> 
> Now, if you're going to get a S/C kit.. You can't run this. You'll have FI software instead.


So your saying the cam specific tunes wont pair with the SC?
The only Turbo chip I see on BFI is the C2 tune. Is there any other chip I can get thats not $300?
How do the regular tunes work with the Neuspeed charger? Like the Base BFI or TT tune.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

The NS tune for the charger works with the stock 16lb injectors. And it runs real lean. I would bet my reputation that the N/A C2 cam chip with work 10x better than the NS blower chip. There is enough wiggle room with the MAF to compensate for the 5-6psi of boost the blower puts out. And it's $199, not $300.


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## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

Cool, I'm willing to spend $200 on a c2 tune. Would there really even be a difference between the turbo tune and N/A? Like you said I am doing a low psi application so I wonder if the turbo tune is even worth the extra $100.

So the best route for me to go is the N/A C2 Cam profile -Street Tune with the supercharger?

I'm pretty sure the Neuspeed chip is the same tune for everything. SC or not.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

I had an NA motor making the same hp as a NS charged car on that tune. I never ran lean. Ever.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

My Big said:


> i'll buy the corrado for 45 large if you wanna get rid of it...if it comes with the long runner manifold... im in town m,t,w,f,s.. so let me know kiddo.


Uh, didn't your little brother just get the Golf from me? I'll sell you it for 4000-3800 or so without the SRI, since I need it for my '94 and I'm putting it on tomorrow.. I did a lot of custom work to that car, I can't just let it go for nothing. Especially with the interior and everything working. 



Alingarhs said:


> So your saying the cam specific tunes wont pair with the SC?
> The only Turbo chip I see on BFI is the C2 tune. Is there any other chip I can get thats not $300?
> How do the regular tunes work with the Neuspeed charger? Like the Base BFI or TT tune.


The tune you used N/A are generally swapped out for some sort of S/C tune. I don't run my BFI chip in my S/C GT, I use C2 stage II software. 



Alingarhs said:


> Cool, I'm willing to spend $200 on a c2 tune. Would there really even be a difference between the turbo tune and N/A? Like you said I am doing a low psi application so I wonder if the turbo tune is even worth the extra $100.
> 
> So the best route for me to go is the N/A C2 Cam profile -Street Tune with the supercharger?
> I'm pretty sure the Neuspeed chip is the same tune for everything. SC or not.


Dude, C2 sells their product out of BFI. You don't need to pay 200. It's 150 on BFI! It's _the same_ tune! Slightly different packaging. That's all. 

And yeah, I think the Neuspeed chip is pretty much for everything.



911_fan said:


> I had an NA motor making the same hp as a NS charged car on that tune. I never ran lean. Ever.


Me too. I had VR6 injectors in my old coupe, though. I was running into problems with my stock injectors. I'm not sure if It was just one or two my injectors being bad, or if the injectors really were running at 100% efficiency and still running lean. (barely).



911_fan said:


> The NS tune for the charger works with the stock 16lb injectors. And it runs real lean. I would bet my reputation that the N/A C2 cam chip with work 10x better than the NS blower chip. There is enough wiggle room with the MAF to compensate for the 5-6psi of boost the blower puts out. And it's $199, not $300.


^ I agree with the first statement. 
Not sure about the second one. 
But 911_fan knows what he's talking about, and has researched the tunes much more extensively than me. :thumbup:


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

With the stock injectors and that low of boost pressure, the MAF should compensate well enough. Any more boost than that,I would just pony up and get the C2 kit. With the VR MAF body and larger injectors, it would be better suited with the smaller pulley, larger cam and head work.


----------



## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

Alright, I will go with the BFI 268 cam profile tune. Thanks for the input!:thumbup:

How exactly does upgrading to a VR MAF help?
Also, should I order slightly bigger injectors as well? #30?
Would there be any benefit of getting larger injectors? I know the stock ones will do fine with the 6-7psi of boost this makes.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Alingarhs said:


> Alright, I will go with the BFI 268 cam profile tune. Thanks for the input!:thumbup:
> 
> How exactly does upgrading to a VR MAF help?
> Also, should I order slightly bigger injectors as well? #30?
> Would there be any benefit of getting larger injectors? I know the stock ones will do fine with the 6-7psi of boost this makes.


 VR MAF = more air in = more power 

Bigger injectors will only help IF your tune will use the full potential of those #30 injectors. Stock injectors should be fine with 6 PSI. I'm running stock injectors on my MK4 S/C.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Um....if you run a bigger maf housing without a tune to compensate for it, you will run crazy lean.


----------



## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Um....if you run a bigger maf housing without a tune to compensate for it, you will run crazy lean.


 This is very true:thumbup: Im hoping he meant running it after tune


----------



## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

I never see pictures..


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## My Big (Dec 26, 2010)

Hurt said:


> Uh, didn't your little brother just get the Golf from me? I'll sell you it for 4000-3800 or so without the SRI, since I need it for my '94 and I'm putting it on tomorrow.. I did a lot of custom work to that car, I can't just let it go for nothing. Especially with the interior and everything working.
> 
> 
> 
> . :thumbup:


 nah i drive the golf, little bro got my old auto golf 8v.. still runs good ya know.. if 
you still wanna sell the rado? if youre keeping the long running intake ill pay 38 large.. right now.. i can have it by 9am.. thanks for vagcomming my bros 8v man. 
is the rado good on gas? like can i ddrive it? or is it unreliable? my bro really likes the golf 8v and the vr6ex you sold me runs real good and goes real quick.. so ya.. 38 large.. just call me up.. thx


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

02vwgolf said:


> Im hoping he meant running it after tune


 Indeed, I was speaking theoretically. 


AJmustDIE said:


> I never see pictures..


 A few pages back, there were some 40-120 pulls and a few pictures of the GT. I'll try to get you some recent ones when I get home. Still working. 



My Big said:


> nah i drive the golf, little bro got my old auto golf 8v.. still runs good ya know.. if
> you still wanna sell the rado? if youre keeping the long running intake ill pay 38 large.. right now.. i can have it by 9am.. thanks for vagcomming my bros 8v man.
> is the rado good on gas? like can i ddrive it? or is it unreliable? my bro really likes the golf 8v and the vr6ex you sold me runs real good and goes real quick.. so ya.. 38 large.. just call me up.. thx


 Meh, for that price you'll need to bring your own 4x100 wheels, can't let the RS reps go for that low of a price. But lets take this to texts/calls, no need to clutter up this thread anymore. :thumbup: 

Anyone got any suggestions for a nice sounding exhaust system? I'm thinking of just buying a MBS 2.5" system and swapping out the muffler it comes with for a Flowmaster. Any suggestions? I already put my SRI on it. Stock engine with an SRI and it really woke the car up, pulls right to the 6400 RPM redline no problem. 

Oh, and if anyone is in Boston tomorrow and wants to help me install some parts. Let me know. I need to install my FK 60/40 cupkit, my GLX interior I got at the junkyard, new rear window regulators :banghead:, random little interior parts, ghetto texture the bumper tops, etc.


----------



## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

The muffler that comes on the MBS system is a top notch product. Way wayyyyy better than some crapmaster.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

AJmustDIE said:


> The muffler that comes on the MBS system is a top notch product. Way wayyyyy better than some crapmaster.


 I hated the sound of the MBS muffler on all of the systems I've bought from there.  

anywho, back to work. Anyone want to come by the shop and help with my GL, come on by. :thumbup:


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Where in 'Boston'?


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> The NS tune for the charger works with the stock 16lb injectors. And it runs real lean. I would bet my reputation that the N/A C2 cam chip with work 10x better than the NS blower chip. There is enough wiggle room with the MAF to compensate for the 5-6psi of boost the blower puts out. And it's $199, not $300.


 won't the ignition timing be too hot with the BFI (C2 NA) with the NS SC?


----------



## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Hurt said:


> I hated the sound of the MBS muffler on all of the systems I've bought from there.


 Well, it's a full boar muffler ment for big power/no restriction. Needless to say most 8'v sound terrible with a kind of muffler like that with no premuffling like a resonator or even a turbo.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Where in 'Boston'?


 It's a Barn that I had converted. It's in Charlestown, near the bridge. 



vacuumnoise said:


> won't the ignition timing be too hot with the BFI (C2 NA) with the NS SC?


 Probably. I would either run Neuspeed's tune or a C2 boost tune. 



AJmustDIE said:


> Well, it's a full boar muffler ment for big power/no restriction. Needless to say most 8'v sound terrible with a kind of muffler like that with no premuffling like a resonator or even a turbo.


 8v+straightpipe sounds horrible. Especially on back-off. braapapapapappapa :laugh: 

I have a ~30" Magnaflow muffler in the straight area of the MBS system and a plain ol 20" Magnaflow muffler in the muffler area on my GT, and it gets rid of all the 4 cylinder noise. It's really quiet compared to the stock MBS muffler, and it sounds good IMO.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

vacuumnoise said:


> won't the ignition timing be too hot with the BFI (C2 NA) with the NS SC?


 Oops...you have a point. I was thinking about the fueling, and totally forgot the ignition. But hey, it's an ABA...these things can take anything with the right fuel.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Anyone want to sell me a 020 mk2 16v trans? I found out my 94's trans has a few issues that aren't worth fixing, mainly with gears 4 and 5. I want to do a 16v swap with a USRT shift linkage kit. 

Anyone think its worth putting the 16v trans in? The ABA trans sucks for performance anyway. Car is all stock except for my USRT SRI and it pulls to the redline hard because of it, but the drop in RPM from 1st-2nd is horrid.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Colm, good luck finding a good working 2Y/4K trans. Those sell like gold. Totally worth putting in a 2Y as long as you swap in the CHE's 5th gear. Otherwise, you will be at 4000rpms @ 70mph.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Colm, good luck finding a good working 2Y/4K trans. Those sell like gold. Totally worth putting in a 2Y as long as you swap in the CHE's 5th gear. Otherwise, you will be at 4000rpms @ 70mph.


 Thanks for the advice! 
Yeah, I'm finding out that they sell pretty fast! All local wreckers are sold out! I'd definitely do the CHE 5th swap. If I remember right, my old MK2 Jetta GLI was at 6k RPM at 100 in 4th, and 65mph was over 3k. 

I'm thinking buying a wrecked MK2 might be the cheapest alternative. If I can find one that has a crap/crashed body and a good drivetrain, I'd be pretty well off, even if the price is ~1500.. I could part it out, and the Recaro's are worth their weight in gold to most MK2 owners, so.. Idk.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Just make sure it's a 16v, not an 8v MKII.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Just make sure it's a 16v, not an 8v MKII.


 From what I've seen most of the MK2 8v's have nearly the same gear ratios. 

4Y 3.45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.89 3.67 Close Ratio 1.8L 8v 
9A,AEN,ACD 3.45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.89 3.67 Close Ratio '85-'89 
AGB,2Y 3.45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.91 3.67 Close Ratio,16V 
ACN,AON,ASF,ACL 3.45 1.94 1.37 1.03 0.75 3.67 1.8L 8V


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I got one from a wrecking yard's MK2 GTI today at a wreckers in CT. Score. Bought a USRT linkage kit. Hoping the 020 doesn't let me down! I'm so used to 02A's, the linkage in the Jetta GLS feels so odd compared to the cable linkage.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Working on the 94' Tomorrow, Corrado is sold. 

Doing the MK2 16v trans swap with a USRT smart-shift linkage kit. I also need to do the brakes front and rear, and do a few more little things. 

I especially need to find an exhaust system. It's all factory beside the SRI. Pulls to redline quite nicely for a near stock ABA. Thinking of doing a few mild mods, like a 268* cam and a GIAC obd1 chip.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I wonder if anyone's ever made a twincharged ABA. I think it would be pretty easy if you used a Zengineering S/C and a Kinetic turbo kit.. Just a bit of fabrication, that's all.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

There's not a lot of room for piping on the passenger side with the z-engineering kit installed. Have to run a tiny air filter with it and that barely squeezes in between the charger and fender. You can **** the charger in different positions though and it'd probably be easier to have a driver's side mounted TB and top mount intercooler.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> There's not a lot of room for piping on the passenger side with the z-engineering kit installed. Have to run a tiny air filter with it and that barely squeezes in between the charger and fender. You can **** the charger in different positions though and it'd probably be easier to have a driver's side mounted TB and top mount intercooler.


 Yeah, the ABA's engine bay is pretty cramped.. It's just cool that it can be done, theoretically. :thumbup:


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Sorry to derail the subject here, but what was the consensus on the USRT SRI? Best option for a big cam _NA_ 8v setup? Thanks fellas :beer: I feel like I'll outgrow the aeg mani with the 288* or 298*, whichever I decide to go with. 

And if someone would be so kind as to post a link for the SRI I would greatly appreciate it. I'm having a hard time finding it. Thanks again.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

MahTrek=] said:


> Sorry to derail the subject here, but what was the consensus on the USRT SRI? Best option for a big cam _NA_ 8v setup? Thanks fellas :beer: I feel like I'll outgrow the aeg mani with the 288* or 298*, whichever I decide to go with.
> 
> And if someone would be so kind as to post a link for the SRI I would greatly appreciate it. I'm having a hard time finding it. Thanks again.


 i large cam would def be a compliment to our manifold. If i remember correctly we designed this manifold to hit the 3rd harmonic around 7k rpms. It also made more power than the shorter runner version. 

http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_133_3&products_id=291


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Thanks Quintin, if you have a second could you elaborate on what 3rd harmonic means, and how it applies? (Sorry, airflow n00b here) with the big, high revving cam and worked head I plan on seeing 8 grand. If thats relevant.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Essentially its positive and negative pressure waves that run up the and down the runners. They occur as the piston moves up the cylinder sending the pressure back up the runner where it bounces off the plenum and comes back. Each wave gets effectively weaker but to tune for say the first harmonic; runner length a few feet long would be needed. The 3rd harmonic would be the 3rd time the wave hits the ports/valves (around 7k rpms) and the 4th harmonic hits around 4500ish. It essentially has a sorta supercharging effect.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MahTrek=] said:


> Sorry to derail the subject here, but what was the consensus on the USRT SRI? Best option for a big cam _NA_ 8v setup? Thanks fellas :beer: I feel like I'll outgrow the aeg mani with the 288* or 298*, whichever I decide to go with.
> 
> And if someone would be so kind as to post a link for the SRI I would greatly appreciate it. I'm having a hard time finding it. Thanks again.


 Best option for sure. 

I have one on my 94' and it's all stock besides it, and it moved the powerband up considerably and it doesn't fall on it's face after 5k anymore. Not to mention the SRI sounds AMAZING. 

It pulls to redline easy (6400). This is stock cam, stock exhaust, stock chip, stock everything beside the USRT SRI and a custom intake. 

With my old 135whp build, it pulled to the rev limiter (7200) in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th, all very, very hard. That was a 276* cam. The Coupe I built had a tt 298*, and pulled way off the written numbers on the tacho. 

USRT SRI = Awesome, to say the least. Best mod (IMO) you can do for a 2.0 after you've done a nice cam and tune. :thumbup:


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Again Hurt & Quintin thank you very much for the replies, I just youtubed a few videos of them  they sound INCREDIBLE. Along with the performance gain it easily makes it worth the higher price tag. I'll be in touch quintin :thumbup::thumbup: 

Edit* Hurt, what are you using for a throttle cable? Also, what about the IAT sensor? Has anyone built an intake with a heatshield for their sri? 

Does the stock throttle body work well with the usrt piece? Or is it recommend to deramp our stock one, or even upgrade to something bigger? Thanks guys :beer:


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

MahTrek=] said:


> Again Hurt & Quintin thank you very much for the replies, I just youtubed a few videos of them  they sound INCREDIBLE. Along with the performance gain it easily makes it worth the higher price tag. I'll be in touch quintin :thumbup::thumbup:
> 
> Edit* Hurt, what are you using for a throttle cable? Also, what about the IAT sensor? Has anyone built an intake with a heatshield for their sri?
> 
> Does the stock throttle body work well with the usrt piece? Or is it recommend to deramp our stock one, or even upgrade to something bigger? Thanks guys :beer:


 it was designed used the stock TB. Deramping doesnt net too many benefits...but if you go bigger...say to a VR TB then things might get a little touchy. Anyway get a spare TB from a junkyard and try it out when you get the SRI


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Sounds good man, I did more research on the mani so my tb & IAT questions were answered too :thumbup: getting very excited about this!


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

I have a USRT longrunner in my 276 cammed 8v... and I must say its a huge improvement:thumbup: I had a custom "home-brew" short runner intake manifold before this manifold and I have absolutely noticed an improvement


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MahTrek=] said:


> Has anyone built an intake with a heatshield for their sri?


 I have. It's pretty easy. The way the manifold sets up the air filter makes it really easy to make a heatshield. I usually just use a 45* bend coupler and a piece of pipe and a cone filter, pointed sort of where the stock airbox goes. Here's a great video on how to make a fiberglass ram-air intake shield:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

16v trans swap (CHE 5th) done. USRT linkage in. Feels good, but the gears are so short. 4th gear at redline is around 105. Lol. :laugh: 
Still stuck on what this engine is going to get in terms of power. I want a good daily driver that gets good gas mileage. The GT isn't really dd-able anymore, lol. 

I'm thinking a free-flowing exhaust, since the stock exhaust is almost falling off, and maybe a small cam like a 268*.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> 16v trans swap (CHE 5th) done. USRT linkage in. Feels good, but the gears are so short. 4th gear at redline is around 105. Lol. :laugh:
> Still stuck on what this engine is going to get in terms of power. I want a good daily driver that gets good gas mileage. The GT isn't really dd-able anymore, lol.
> 
> I'm thinking a free-flowing exhaust, since the stock exhaust is almost falling off, and maybe a small cam like a 268*.


 oh damn that's short....twss:laugh:


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Buying a 4k with a bolt kit from a good buddy who owns a shop here locally, using my 5th though. I believe I'll need a new clutch as well (still undecided there). 5th will be the same but 1-4 will be shooooort.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> oh damn that's short....twss:laugh:


 I would hope that's not what she said, but :laugh: 



MahTrek=] said:


> Buying a 4k with a bolt kit from a good buddy who owns a shop here locally, using my 5th though. I believe I'll need a new clutch as well (still undecided there). 5th will be the same but 1-4 will be shooooort.


 Mine is a 2y, and it's nice. Pulls to 6400 RPM fine, with the stock cam/chip/exhaust. I'm getting a GIAC chip for it and a 268* Neuspeed cam, so I'll soon be able to rev a little higher than 6400. At 7000, the gears will be a little longer and better suited. It's still bearable in the city, on the highway it isn't too bad. It's so quiet with stock exhaust, lol. I drive around in 4th at like 3k rpm, just cruising.. :laugh: 

I think a 4k will really be unbearably short in 1-4. The higher F/D will kill it. Maybe use the ABA trans' F/D? 

With my RA's on 195's at 6500 RPM: 
1st- 34 
2nd - 56 
3rd - 83 
4th - 105 
5th - 149


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Someone sell me an exhaust for my GLS! 

I want to try something different. Anyone got good suggestions for a quiet, yet nice-sounding exhaust? 

I'm thinking of maybe getting a 2.5" TT system with dual resonators and swapping the muffler it comes with for a vibrant-racing one. I want this car to look near stock. It looks OEM, really.. Just a 60/40 drop with some 15" RA's. OEM+ :thumbup:


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## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

Hurt, have you ever had a header on with one your SC builds? 
I know the best route to go is the MK4 to TT DP, but I am just curious on what results are from the headers. 

I was thinking about replacing my manifold with a Raceland or Pacesetter, main reason is I took the heat shield off because of insane rattling and I am worried without it the SC might get too hot and be more prone to heat soak. 

But I see that a lot of people talking you need to get a bung welded in for the 02 on the Raceland, no Idea on what needs to be done with the pacesetter's. 

I also read that the Racelands mentions cat delete with the header, but that's not the route I want to go. Can they still be mated with a cat without any modifications?


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Alingarhs said:


> Hurt, have you ever had a header on with one your SC builds?
> I know the best route to go is the MK4 to TT DP, but I am just curious on what results are from the headers.
> 
> I was thinking about replacing my manifold with a Raceland or Pacesetter, main reason is I took the heat shield off because of insane rattling and I am worried without it the SC might get too hot and be more prone to heat soak.
> ...


 Honestly, I don't know that the MK4 manifold/TT race DP is the "best". I just prefer it. 

No, I've never used a header with a S/C build. I have used them in other builds, though. I don't like them because of the lack of flex joints, and most of the aftermarket headers are poor-fitting and expensive. 

Pacesetter's header rots very fast from what I've heard. It's cheap, though.. 135 on Amazon. It's the cheapest route, but I don't know about their quality. They bolt up to the factory CAT. 

I'm pretty sure Raceland's header bolts to the factory CAT. Their description is pretty much the same for every product. 

If you're worried about heatsoak, get the Raceland header and get good quality header-wrap. Or a MK4 manifold (wrap it) and a TT 2.5" downpipe (stock one won't fit), it doesn't delete your CAT.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Honestly, I don't know that the MK4 manifold/TT race DP is the "best". I just prefer it.
> 
> No, I've never used a header with a S/C build. I have used them in other builds, though. I don't like them because of the lack of flex joints, and most of the aftermarket headers are poor-fitting and expensive.
> 
> ...


 The header to get is the OBX 4-2-1 stainless. Nice piece, durable and only about $100 it's actually a chinese copy of the old Mk2 super sprint.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Prof315 said:


> The header to get is the OBX 4-2-1 stainless. Nice piece, durable and only about $100 it's actually a chinese copy of the old Mk2 super sprint.


 The one that says for 85-93 8vs? I've seen that on eBay, Idk if I'd buy one, though. I prefer flex joints, and with my setup I need the exhaust to flex. I'm only using stage 1 motormounts, but.. Still. I've broken a OBX header that was on a VR6.. and that car only had .5 motormounts! That's one of the reasons I prefer TT's downpipes over headers.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

I know the 4k is super short but with an 8.5k redline I think it will help some  

If it really is unbearable, I'll look into using my current f/d :thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MahTrek=] said:


> I know the 4k is super short but with an 8.5k redline I think it will help some
> 
> If it really is unbearable, I'll look into using my current f/d :thumbup:


 You won't need to rev it out that far. For power the best shift point for a 298* is around 7500, I think. Depends. Don't put a big cam (288*


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Don't put a big cam (288*


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Hurt said:


> The one that says for 85-93 8vs? I've seen that on eBay, Idk if I'd buy one, though. I prefer flex joints, and with my setup I need the exhaust to flex. I'm only using stage 1 motormounts, but.. Still. I've broken a OBX header that was on a VR6.. and that car only had .5 motormounts! That's one of the reasons I prefer TT's downpipes over headers.


 What I did was add a 6" flex pipe at the header outlet flange.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> **** wouldn't fit anyway:laugh:


 Lol, that's probably true.  
My head is ported pretty well, and my 276* 114lca cam barely fit, lol. 



Prof315 said:


> What I did was add a 6" flex pipe at the header outlet flange.


 That's a good idea.. why haven't I thought of this?! :banghead: 
275 bucks is quite a bit to pay for a TT race DP, even if it is made beautifully.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Lol, that's probably true.
> My head is ported pretty well, and my 276* 114lca cam barely fit, lol.


how u like it?


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> **** wouldn't fit anyway:laugh:


 The 276 114lc I received (back when quintin had first "revealed" it on vortex some time ago) came with the lobes unchamfered and I had to get my head machined to clear them. :sly:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> how u like it?


I can't really compare it to anything beside a 268/260 I had in a different car with a different kit with different mods, but.. 

I love it. Instant power from the S/C of course, but the cam pulls so hard from 4,000 RPM to 7,000+, the cutoff is 7200. If I don't watch the tach while I'm pulling in 2nd or 3rd, I hit the limiter. Power curve is very linear. It just goes and goes. It wants to keep going past 7200! The cam also provides a nice low end, I can drive around part throttle and it's fine shifting at 2,000 RPM. If I could use my SRI with the BBM set-up, I'd imagine it would pull to 8k RPM fine, and make power doing it. The only thing I dislike is the idle. It's choppy, and the idle is at 1000 RPM to compensate for that. That's all that bugs me.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> I can't really compare it to anything beside a 268/260 I had in a different car with a different kit with different mods, but..
> 
> I love it. Instant power from the S/C of course, but the cam pulls so hard from 4,000 RPM to 7,000+, the cutoff is 7200. If I don't watch the tach while I'm pulling in 2nd or 3rd, I hit the limiter. Power curve is very linear. It just goes and goes. It wants to keep going past 7200! The cam also provides a nice low end, I can drive around part throttle and it's fine shifting at 2,000 RPM. If I could use my SRI with the BBM set-up, I'd imagine it would pull to 8k RPM fine, and make power doing it. The only thing I dislike is the idle. It's choppy, and the idle is at 1000 RPM to compensate for that. That's all that bugs me.


 Yea i found if you add more fuel at idle and about 900rpms smoothed it out like stock....almost.

But other than that it's exactly as you described it. that damn thing will pull to 7500+ i hit 8k once


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## 2.slowduo (Sep 17, 2008)

Hurt said:


> Someone sell me an exhaust for my GLS!
> 
> I want to try something different. Anyone got good suggestions for a quiet, yet nice-sounding exhaust?
> 
> I'm thinking of maybe getting a 2.5" TT system with dual resonators and swapping the muffler it comes with for a vibrant-racing one. I want this car to look near stock. It looks OEM, really.. Just a 60/40 drop with some 15" RA's. OEM+ :thumbup:




I have the tt stainless with a borla on my jetta, it looks very stock
Loud under power but not droney on the highway,and it makes all the right pops and crackle on decell

Have the newspeed stainless on the gti, does not look stock with the dtm rear muffler but it sounds about stock. Very quiet

I've. Been tempted to cut off the dtm upturns but don't want to ruin this "classic" piece:laugh:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> Yea i found if you add more fuel at idle and about 900rpms smoothed it out like stock....almost.
> 
> But other than that it's exactly as you described it. that damn thing will pull to 7500+ i hit 8k once


Yeah, I'm going to be talking with C2 soon to get my tune reburned to raise the limiter to 8,000. I'm going to bring the GT for some dyno runs soon so I can get a good camgear setting and all of that junk. I'm also considering buying BBM's forged piston set for it, if it's going to be revving over 7k I should probably be safe rather sorry!




2.slowduo said:


> Have the newspeed stainless on the gti, does not look stock with the dtm rear muffler but it sounds about stock. Very quiet
> 
> I've. Been tempted to cut off the dtm upturns but don't want to ruin this "classic" piece:laugh:


I ordered the Neuspeed catback today, it's such a good value and quiet = :thumbup: . I'm hacking the DTM upturns off first thing. :laugh:


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Yeah, I'm going to be talking with C2 soon to get my tune reburned to raise the limiter to 8,000. I'm going to bring the GT for some dyno runs soon so I can get a good camgear setting and all of that junk. I'm also considering buying BBM's forged piston set for it, if it's going to be revving over 7k I should probably be safe rather sorry!


If you need pistons and such let me see what i can do for you.

Hurtin my feelins!

Anyway PM with what you'd need.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> If you need pistons and such let me see what i can do for you.
> 
> Hurtin my feelins!
> 
> Anyway PM with what you'd need.


Thanks for the notion. 

I'm going to take it to the dyno first to see if I'm even making power past 7k, and if so, then I'll decide what pistons I'm going to get. :thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

According to a friend's G-Tech, I'm running 13 flat 1/4's with full interior on my 225 45 16's. Score! Need to get my 60 foot down, though.. Spinning like crazy til halfway through 2nd gear.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Thanks for the notion.
> 
> I'm going to take it to the dyno first to see if I'm even making power past 7k, and if so, then I'll decide what pistons I'm going to get. :thumbup:


:beer::thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

BBM sells MK3 chips now. I'm willing to try them out, since my GLS needs a chip. I wonder if they're better than TT or if they're just a copy?


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## 2.slowduo (Sep 17, 2008)

Hurt said:


> I ordered the Neuspeed catback today, it's such a good value and quiet = :thumbup: . I'm hacking the DTM upturns off first thing. :laugh:


I was not aware they still sold it. What did it run you if you don't mind me asking?

I paid about 100$ used


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

2.slowduo said:


> I was not aware they still sold it. What did it run you if you don't mind me asking?
> 
> I paid about 100$ used


499.99 on clearance :thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Anyone take a look at BBM's MK3 eprom?


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## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

So I have always wondered if getting a low temp thermostat (like a 71 or 80c) is ever beneficial in a car?

From my understanding, if the car is completely factory, VW's operating temp at 90c (?) is the most efficient. But in what circumstances are lower temp thermostats better? I ask because I am replacing the water pump and thermostat. Wondering if this will help keep the engine a little cooler since the SC produces more heat.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Alingarhs said:


> So I have always wondered if getting a low temp thermostat (like a 71 or 80c) is ever beneficial in a car?
> 
> From my understanding, if the car is completely factory, VW's operating temp at 90c (?) is the most efficient. But in what circumstances are lower temp thermostats better? I ask because I am replacing the water pump and thermostat. Wondering if this will help keep the engine a little cooler since the SC produces more heat.


Generally, colder = more power. 

Sometimes they're also used as a way to lower coolant temps at the track, which is pretty good, but it's kind of just a band-aid. If your car is running hot there's generally a reason why, like a crappy radiator or fan. It depends on alot.

I wouldn't advise buying one. I've never used one in any of my 8v builds. My S/C GT still runs perfectly cool, right in the center of the gauge (90c), and I thrash it on a daily basis.


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## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

Yeah I was reading some more about them and they can cause issues with carbon build up and running rich because the ecu still thinks its in the "warm up" cycle since its not at the factory operating temp. I ordered the 90c thermostat.


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Motronic cars tend to make great power when they're hot. Strange as hell.

I usually run a normal thermostat and a low temp fan switch.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

root beer said:


> Motronic cars tend to make great power when they're hot. Strange as hell.
> 
> I usually run a normal thermostat and a low temp fan switch.


indeed:beer:


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

root beer said:


> Motronic cars tend to make great power when they're hot. Strange as hell.
> 
> I usually run a normal thermostat and a low temp fan switch.





[email protected] said:


> indeed:beer:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Got a Neuspeed 268* cam, Neuspeed adjustable camgear (set to +4), and a OBD1 ECU with a Neuspeed P-chip already installed today from a friend for cheap! Using it all on my 94 GL, runs great. The 268* should have came stock, it pulls nicely to 7k and idles fine. :thumbup:

My GL should really be a Neuspeed catalog car! I mean, it's got the Neuspeed cam, exhaust, chip, camgear, plug wires, etc. :laugh:

I've done quite a lot of work to this car, glad to be able to use the fruits of my labor. I'm averaging 28MPG combined! It's a great daily. With the FK cupkit, it rides well, it looks good, and it's quick for a 8v. 

TLDR; Neuspeed's 268* cam is excellent.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

The NS 268 is very very similar to the Schrick 268.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Got a Neuspeed 268* cam, Neuspeed adjustable camgear (set to +4), and a OBD1 ECU with a Neuspeed P-chip already installed today from a friend for cheap! Using it all on my 94 GL, runs great. The 268* should have came stock, it pulls nicely to 7k and idles fine. :thumbup:
> 
> My GL should really be a Neuspeed catalog car! I mean, it's got the Neuspeed cam, exhaust, chip, camgear, plug wires, etc. :laugh:
> 
> ...


some video youtube pulls would be good.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> some video youtube pulls would be good.


Indeed, I should put some up. It's hard taping my GT period, though, which sucks. Between steering/shifting/holding a camera.. mk3's are hard to film. 

Personally, I've also been busy lately with a house I bought to flip that the wife reaaaaally likes, and I've been under the weather lately, but the house has a HUGE garage with a apartment-sized loft above it, so I'll likely stay here in MA for a while.. I'll probably keep it. I've been looking into having a nice lift installed in the garage, too, which will help. I hate jackstands.. and jacking up lowered MK3's = . 

I forgot to add I meant to make a DIY cam install, I'm sorting through the pictures. I took like 40 ic:s. 

I'm also considering swapping the car over to OBD2 so I can run a C2 chip, but the Neuspeed chip works surprisingly well. :thumbup:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

We need to hook up. Maybe meet up one Saturday at Wachusett Brewery? You can't e more than 40 minutes from me. Currently unemployed, so I got time on my hands, lol.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Indeed, I should put some up. It's hard taping my GT period, though, which sucks. Between steering/shifting/holding a camera.. mk3's are hard to film.
> 
> Personally, I've also been busy lately with a house I bought to flip that the wife reaaaaally likes, and I've been under the weather lately, but the house has a HUGE garage with a apartment-sized loft above it, so I'll likely stay here in MA for a while.. I'll probably keep it. I've been looking into having a nice lift installed in the garage, too, which will help. I hate jackstands.. and jacking up lowered MK3's = .
> 
> ...



word

get a friend to film from the passenger seat... both of yr Mk3's ic::heart:


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

iv'e stuck around for 23 pages and still no engine bay pictures?


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Jh0104 said:


> iv'e stuck around for 23 pages and still no engine bay pictures?


yeh vortex :heart: videos and ic:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> We need to hook up. Maybe meet up one Saturday at Wachusett Brewery? You can't e more than 40 minutes from me. Currently unemployed, so I got time on my hands, lol.


 That'd be great! 
I have sort of a hectic work schedule, which sucks, but.. it's that time of year, so we'd have to plan it out in advance a few weeks. 



vacuumnoise said:


> get a friend to film from the passenger seat... both of yr Mk3's ic::heart:


 Tried using my wife for that when I first got my lysholm on. It was sort of hard to hear the car and concentrate on the video with my wife going "Colm... Colm! COLM! SLOW DOWN! OK, SLOW DOWN NOW!! SLOOOOW DOWN!!! PLEASE!!" :laugh: 

The GL is really nothing special. Just a bolt on 8v with a small cam. It pulls pretty nicely getting on the highway, though. And I love banging 2nd and 3rd gear with the USRT linkage kit. It feels sooo nice shifting hard, kind of notchy, but very snick-snick feeling, and precise. No mistaking 1st for 3rd, or any of that.. Perfect combination of both for a nice, smooth feel.. Dare I say nicer than my GT's 02A? ;O


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Pick a day, Colm.


----------



## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

Hurt said:


> It was sort of hard to hear the car and concentrate on the video with my wife going "Colm... Colm! COLM! SLOW DOWN!


 

no excuse. :laugh: 

take a few snaps of them with your smartphone and upload to photo bucket  

ill e-buy you a few cold ones! :beer::beer:


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## OC80 (Aug 9, 2010)

Hurt said:


> Tried using my wife for that when I first got my lysholm on. It was sort of hard to hear the car and concentrate on the video with my wife going "Colm... Colm! COLM! SLOW DOWN! OK, SLOW DOWN NOW!! SLOOOOW DOWN!!! PLEASE!!" :laugh:


 i can vouch for the jetta gt of colms.. its fast. he beats my 20v swap that i paid lots of money for.. 
for the cam issues.. I can hold it for you  your wifey is a nice woman dont make fun of her.. i'll tell on you :laugh: 

i need some help with my mk3s wheels tomorrow if you're around and want to go to tirerack to pick up some tires? they'll fit in your truck right? i'll pay for gas and lunch and a few :beer::beer::beer:s  

:heart:


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Jh0104 said:


> no excuse. :laugh:
> 
> take a few snaps of them with your smartphone and upload to photo bucket
> 
> ill e-buy you a few cold ones! :beer::beer:


 you can also upload them to a tumblr, I find this easier than photobucket, I hate photobucket... 

we just want pics cuz we :heart: fast 8v Mk3's


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

vacuumnoise said:


> we just want pics cuz we :heart: fast 8v Mk3's


 exactly!


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

OC80 said:


> i can vouch for the jetta gt of colms.. its fast. he beats my 20v swap that i paid lots of money for..
> for the cam issues.. I can hold it for you  your wifey is a nice woman dont make fun of her.. i'll tell on you :laugh:
> 
> i need some help with my mk3s wheels tomorrow if you're around and want to go to tirerack to pick up some tires? they'll fit in your truck right? i'll pay for gas and lunch and a few :beer::beer::beer:s
> ...


 The only reason I beat your 1.8T is because you have a tiny turbo on it running looow boost. Put a GT35R on it and you'll smoke me.. Maybe :laugh: 

We will go tomorrow, I'm going to call you after I post this. 

PS: Putting together my cam install DIY. I'm missing the whole "take the intake off" part because I have a SRI, but.. other than that, it should be fine. I didn't install HD springs because it's an OBD1 engine, and the cam is only .438" of lift. 

Will try to get some pull videos up when I can. Going to a 1/4 strip soon, going to put on a set of slicks and see how I do. :thumbup:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

There's no doubt my old 8v could have taken my 150hp/150tq K03 Passat on the top end. But, raise the boost from the stock 8.5psi to 15psi (20psi over boost) and there is no way. Even with 800 more pound of weight. Doubling the boost pressure made this a different car.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

911_fan said:


> There's no doubt my old 8v could have taken my 150hp/150tq K03 Passat on the top end. But, raise the boost from the stock 8.5psi to 15psi (20psi over boost) and there is no way. Even with 800 more pound of weight. Doubling the boost pressure made this a different car.


 Amazing isn't it! So serious change of plans with my new Corrado. Running an OBD2 ABA with MS3 right now in it and I was planning on rebuilding the 20/20 for my finally arrived EFR 6258. Well guess what? IT WONT FIT IN THE CAR on the 20V head. So..... built, turboed OBD1 ABA here we come! Still going to shoot for the same 300whp as I wanted with the 20/20.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Prof315 said:


> Amazing isn't it! So serious change of plans with my new Corrado. Running an OBD2 ABA with MS3 right now in it and I was planning on rebuilding the 20/20 for my finally arrived EFR 6258. Well guess what? IT WONT FIT IN THE CAR on the 20V head. So..... built, turboed OBD1 ABA here we come! Still going to shoot for the same 300whp as I wanted with the 20/20.


 jeez that power is way too easy to make. Could do it with a normal t3 super 60. 

You're on MS3...and a much more efficient/faster spooling turbo. Shoot for 350~375whp.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> There's no doubt my old 8v could have taken my 150hp/150tq K03 Passat on the top end. But, raise the boost from the stock 8.5psi to 15psi (20psi over boost) and there is no way. Even with 800 more pound of weight. Doubling the boost pressure made this a different car.


 My 135whp build took a few stock 1.8T's, pretty good runs. Same with bolt on VR6's. 

Now, I pull hard on oc80's 20v mk3 with my GT. But she's only running a k04 on like 15-20psi of boost. If she would upgrade her turbo, I wonder how I'd do then.. I'm hoping to put down 250whp+. 

Is there any reason why the 1.8T's bleed off boost at redline? It's so aggravating. 



Prof315 said:


> Amazing isn't it! So serious change of plans with my new Corrado. Running an OBD2 ABA with MS3 right now in it and I was planning on rebuilding the 20/20 for my finally arrived EFR 6258. Well guess what? IT WONT FIT IN THE CAR on the 20V head. So..... built, turboed OBD1 ABA here we come! Still going to shoot for the same 300whp as I wanted with the 20/20.


 20/20 N/A > 2.0T kthxbai


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> jeez that power is way too easy to make. Could do it with a normal t3 super 60.
> 
> You're on MS3...and a much more efficient/faster spooling turbo. Shoot for 350~375whp.


 We'll see. Who knows, maybe down the line I'll try for 400  But bear in mind unlike my last C this one is going to remain pure street car, fast but street. No coilovers or tubular control arms, no P/S and A/C delete, no heim jointed tie rods. If I want to drive from Florida to California to visit my daughter in it I want to do it in comfort.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Will try to get some pull videos up when I can. Going to a 1/4 strip soon, going to put on a set of slicks and see how I do. :thumbup:


 :thumbup::thumbup:


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Prof315 said:


> We'll see. Who knows, maybe down the line I'll try for 400  But bear in mind unlike my last C this one is going to remain pure street car, fast but street. No coilovers or tubular control arms, no P/S and A/C delete, no heim jointed tie rods. If I want to drive from Florida to California to visit my daughter in it I want to do it in comfort.


 :thumbup:


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Hurt said:


> Will try to get some pull videos up when I can. Going to a 1/4 strip soon, going to put on a set of slicks and see how I do. :thumbup:


 All this bench racing i see outta you, i want to see a real number! When are you going?


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

root beer said:


> All this bench racing i see outta you, i want to see a real number! When are you going?


 Hopefully by the end of the month, or before it gets too cold in October. I'm thinking 250whp will be pretty easy to make considering BBM made 225whp with just their stage 3 kit, and I have a "built" head, a much bigger cam, and a good exhaust set up.. Looking into getting a 3" exhaust cutout, actually, since my exhaust has 2 mufflers in it. Probably a little restrictive.. I'm hoping to tune my camgear, too, since right now I pull to the cut-off hard, with no power loss really.. It feels like a 16v. The higher it revs the more power I make.  

But I also have to consider the whole 02A saps more power than the 020 trans thing. Bahhh. Dyno figures suck. :banghead:


----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

I'm talking about a track number. I don't care so much about power.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

root beer said:


> I'm talking about a track number. I don't care so much about power.


 I'm hoping for low 13's on street tires. According to my friends G-TECH, I'm at 13 flat, but those are generally wrong. The car is a street car. It's a 4 door. Heavy. The only real weight reduction I've done is move the battery to the trunk and replace it with a smaller Dry-cell light-weight battery, Momo wheel without the stock airbag, no pass airbag. I have a euro rad support and rebar, and a few other little things. 

But I have front and rear stress bars, a skid plate.. just a lot of weight. I have a set of VDO gauges, full interior, etc. I still have A/C, P/S, P/L, P/W, heated seats, etc. Not to mention my wheels probably weigh a lot more than the stock wheels.. ;O


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

Prof315 said:


> No coilovers. If I want to drive from Florida to California to visit my daughter in it I want to do it in comfort.


 whats so bad about good coilovers? mine ride great, very highway friendly, but the cornering ability is second to none :thumbup:


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Jh0104 said:


> whats so bad about good coilovers? mine ride great, very highway friendly, but the cornering ability is second to none :thumbup:


 Nothing wrong with coilovers but the car came with Bilstein HDs already on it. It ain't broke so I'm not fixing it.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Driven my GL like 750 miles the past 2 days.. Gotten around 30~32 MPG to a tank highway cruising at 75 MPH or so. 
No problems at all on the highway with the Neuspeed exhaust. Quiet. No drone.. No complaints from passengers. :thumbup: 

Got a CAT inefficiency code today. I'm going to get a High-flow CAT, since this car needs to be inspected and all that nonsense. Anyone have a good recommendation for a CAT that meets emissions standards but doesn't rob more power than the stock unit/cost an arm and a leg?


----------



## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

Hurt said:


> I'm going to get a High-flow CAT, since this car needs to be inspected and all that nonsense.


 dont bother, just use a spark plug non fouler on the rear o2 sensor. itll bring the o2 up and out of the direct exhaust stream so it will read less of the "bad" fumes and wont trip a CEL. :thumbup:


----------



## rallyplasma (Apr 30, 2012)

*question...*

I have read thru this entire thread and a few questions popped into my head....no doubt it has 100% to do with my lack of knowledge in the area but I have read peoples long laundry list of how to get more power out of their 2.0 motors and getting to roughly the 140-150hp area. My question is why would you NOT just install a 9A (2.0L 16v) that puts out 134hp stock? Is the cost that much more than the 2-4k that people are talking about? is the engine management or fuel delivery worse? i am sure there is a clear and easy answer to why people wouldnt just go with a stock motor from a previous generation (mk2 GTI) and BEGIN to mod from there onto a 134hp engine? Thanks and apologies for the elementary question.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

You cannot just swap in an older engine/management. Its federally illegal. Not to mention, in order to get it all to work would require a lot of parts. People instead swap in a 16v head and make the necessary modifications to make it work of the Motronic management that was stock on the engine.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

rallyplasma said:


> I have read thru this entire thread and a few questions popped into my head....no doubt it has 100% to do with my lack of knowledge in the area but I have read peoples long laundry list of how to get more power out of their 2.0 motors and getting to roughly the 140-150hp area. My question is why would you NOT just install a 9A (2.0L 16v) that puts out 134hp stock? Is the cost that much more than the 2-4k that people are talking about? is the engine management or fuel delivery worse? i am sure there is a clear and easy answer to why people wouldnt just go with a stock motor from a previous generation (mk2 GTI) and BEGIN to mod from there onto a 134hp engine? Thanks and apologies for the elementary question.


 Illegal. 
PITA to wire (been there done that..) 
Cost isn't much, maybe 500 dollars from the boneyard. Sallad has done this swap. 
Some people prefer the 8v over the 16v, like me. 
16v parts cost more.


----------



## rallyplasma (Apr 30, 2012)

*Thanks guys!*

Thanks guys, makes sense. I got a little 8v that I will prob do some basic rallyx in and would love to make just a pinch more power....from ~100hp to like 110 to 120 would be great but i am still doing the research. I know its not an 8v forum so i will make a quick exit but thanks for all your responses.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

rallyplasma said:


> Thanks guys, makes sense. I got a little 8v that I will prob do some basic rallyx in and would love to make just a pinch more power....from ~100hp to like 110 to 120 would be great but i am still doing the research. I know its not an 8v forum so i will make a quick exit but thanks for all your responses.


 This _is_ an 8v forum. 

100whp stock isn't a bad base. You should see around 110 with just an intake, exhaust, small (260*)cam, and a tune. 120whp would be easily attainable with a bigger cam and headwork would provide bigger gains.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Just an FYI, stock power to the front wheel of any MKIII/mkiv is more like 94/95whp.


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## rallyplasma (Apr 30, 2012)

Hurt said:


> This _is_ an 8v forum.
> 
> 100whp stock isn't a bad base. You should see around 110 with just an intake, exhaust, small (260*)cam, and a tune. 120whp would be easily attainable with a bigger cam and headwork would provide bigger gains.


 

yeah sorry, i meant 1.8L 8v. I believe there is another forum section that is specifically for 1.8L 8v vs this forum which is (according to its title) 2.0L 8v. Thanks!


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Just an FYI, stock power to the front wheel of any MKIII/mkiv is more like 94/95whp.


 Thanks for sharing that, I figured 100whp would just be an easier number to use lol. :thumbup: 



rallyplasma said:


> yeah sorry, i meant 1.8L 8v. I believe there is another forum section that is specifically for 1.8L 8v vs this forum which is (according to its title) 2.0L 8v. Thanks!


 Ohh, yeah.. 1.8 8v's aren't really my thing. But GL and thanks for stopping by :thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Neuspeed exhaust = awesome. Drove over 200 miles today at 80 MPH and was able to have conversations/hear the radio. No drone. I highly recommend it.

Anyone have any info on BBM's MK3 chips? They say the same thing as TT's non cam files do "Programed for better performace with out a loss in gas mileage. Higher rev limit, 7 hp."

It's 15 dollars more than TT's chip, though. :screwy:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

It's called profit.


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Mine's running again. Lets see if i can't make this ****box go fast. So pumped.


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## jhad03 (Sep 28, 2012)

root beer said:


> Mine's running again. Lets see if i can't make this ****box go fast. So pumped.


lol @ sh1t box, good luck :thumbup:

i just put a set of 4-1 headers in with my mate and noticed a huge improvement in 4k+ rpms. maybe 5-7hp.

so far, performance wise, im running a metal intake tube with deramped throttle body to an open cone stuck tight to the headlight. a pacesetter 4-1 to gutted cat to 2.25" exhaust with 1 resonator and a dynomax muffler (quiet). an autothority chip (6500rpm rev limit). no ac and a 6 puck sprung clutch, transmission brace and a "solid" front motor mount. it runs great and pulls good and hard. runs way harder than a stock aba. makes for a fun dd. :beer:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

root beer said:


> Mine's running again. Lets see if i can't make this ****box go fast. So pumped.


:thumbup:
Can't wait to see how your 2.0 likes nitrous!



911_fan said:


> It's called profit.


I suppose so. Or 15 dollars for the BBM sticker. Lol



jhad03 said:


> i just put a set of 4-1 headers in with my mate and noticed a huge improvement in 4k+ rpms. maybe 5-7hp.
> 
> so far, performance wise, im running a metal intake tube with deramped throttle body to an open cone stuck tight to the headlight. a pacesetter 4-1 to gutted cat to 2.25" exhaust with 1 resonator and a dynomax muffler (quiet). an autothority chip (6500rpm rev limit). no ac and a 6 puck sprung clutch, transmission brace and a "solid" front motor mount. it runs great and pulls good and hard. runs way harder than a stock aba. makes for a fun dd. :beer:


Get an aftermarket cam, you'll love it 100x more! 276 TT cam is the best all around cam for the ABA, especially if you have an adjustable camgear set to +5. More TQ, no high end loss. :thumbup:


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## CROWN (Jun 14, 2007)

you're still around in this section travis? lol Stock is around 94-95 atleast what mine dynoed at. Made 134 If i remember right with a 278 cam a sri and good port work and 4-1 race header and adj cam gear and TT chip. I miss my aba 8v's. Fun and easy, always a good combo  I haven't been on here in a while. Most likely i'll go with aba 8v in my mk2. Addicting.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

CROWN said:


> you're still around in this section travis? lol


For the amusement factor only.


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## CROWN (Jun 14, 2007)

911_fan said:


> For the amusement factor only.


I could see that. I took a long break from vw's for a while. Than picked up a mk2 I couldn't stay away sadly. I do miss my evo though. Welp im sure i'll have some other cool 8v things done soon. Unless I decide to go 16v eee


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Get an aftermarket cam, you'll love it 100x more! 276 TT cam is the best all around cam for the ABA, especially if you have an adjustable camgear set to +5. More TQ, no high end loss. :thumbup:


used to be 4 degrees advanced, now the +5 is the popular go-to setting? 

:beer:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

vacuumnoise said:


> used to be 4 degrees advanced, now the +5 is the popular go-to setting?
> 
> :beer:


No. There is no difference you would feel between 4 or 5 degrees. Adjustments are usually done in 2 degree increments:
-4 -2 0 +2 +4
Anything other than that, run a different cam profile.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

so I can't see any engine mods happening for the rest of this year due to finances... 

but I have a new plan for *early spring 2013:

270cam with HD springs
and USRT LRIM*

currently: stock obd2 ABA
w/ TT260* cam and AEG lifters
TT 2.25" exhaust w/ dynomax muffler
custom intake
BFI stg2 chip
OBX header
42DD high flow cat
Gruvenparts billet lightweight crank & alternator pulleys

thats it currently, and its.... ehhhh


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> so I can't see any engine mods happening for the rest of this year due to finances...
> 
> but I have a new plan for *early spring 2013:
> 
> ...


Why a 270*? If you're going to bother getting HD springs, get a 276*. Way more HP than the 270*.


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## CROWN (Jun 14, 2007)

Hurt said:


> Why a 270*? If you're going to bother getting HD springs, get a 276*. Way more HP than the 270*.


What he said ^^


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Why a 270*? If you're going to bother getting HD springs, get a 276*. Way more HP than the 270*.


I know but its stock head, cuz Im not sure if Im going to go Forced Induction... 

276 stock heard, I've seen fitment issues before... and overheating. Just saying..


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

I've never heard of a 276* causing overheating issues. Any other info on that?


----------



## CROWN (Jun 14, 2007)

overheating from a cam? lols, never heard that one before.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> I know but its stock head, cuz Im not sure if Im going to go Forced Induction...
> 
> 276 stock heard, I've seen fitment issues before... and overheating. Just saying..


 
I've never heard of a 276* causing overheating. All of my cars run nearly exactly at the stock 190* mark. Heck, even my S/C runs at 90*C (ABF cluster) and I drive it pretty "spirited". No problems at all with that car. But that's another story.. 

The TT 276* will fit the stock head with no problems. If you get headwork done, it will surely benefit from that. 

The cam that has low clearance is the 276 114* lobe center cam, if I remember right. I have a 268* in my GL and it fits perfectly fine. I can't remember EVER having clearance issues, and my first VW 2.0 was a basically stock engine TT catalog car.. TT exhaust, TT 272* cam, TT camgear, TT header, TT valves, TT valvesprings, TT wires.. blahblahblah. 

Now, don't get me wrong, the 270* autotech cam is a great cam. The 276* just offers more power and no perceptible low end loss. Especially +4* or so, you'll even gain more TQ.


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## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

Hurt said:


> I've never heard of a 276* causing overheating. All of my cars run nearly exactly at the stock 190* mark. Heck, even my S/C runs at 90*C (ABF cluster) and I drive it pretty "spirited". No problems at all with that car. But that's another story..
> 
> The TT 276* will fit the stock head with no problems. If you get headwork done, it will surely benefit from that.
> 
> ...


Great info here:thumbup:.....I'm building my head with HD Springs and Big Valve upgrade...How bad will the idle be ("loby") with a 276 NA for now?? Im thinking about going FI eventually but not 100% sure yet..I spoke with Colin and he says go with a 268, so how different are they REALLY ??


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

vacuumnoise said:


> 276 stock heard, I've seen fitment issues before... and overheating. Just saying..


The person you heard it from effed up the install. These heads will take a .460" lift just fine. The 276* has about .001" more lift than the 270* cam. Zero figment issues. And the ONLY overheating issue I could possibly think of is if you tightened the cam caps over 15 lbs/ft. But the the metal expansion from the heat would snap the cam.


----------



## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

I've had my 276 cam in my n/a 2.0 for over a year now with no overheating issues. The idle is somewhat lopey if your idle is set below 1000rpm but otherwise its awesome. Definitely reccomend it to others looking to cam their 2.0:thumbup:

Sent from my VS840 4G using Tapatalk 2


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> The person you heard it from effed up the install. These heads will take a .460" lift just fine. The 276* has about .001" more lift than the 270* cam. Zero figment issues. And the ONLY overheating issue I could possibly think of is if you tightened the cam caps over 15 lbs/ft. But the the metal expansion from the heat would snap the cam.


ah Okay

Yes I was referring to this individual, and there was a dyno once ( I think he ran the 276 on stock springs) the dyno he proved that the 276 cam made more power than the 270 cam on a stock head... and I remember him saying the temp was 220...

Another reason I was debating the 270 cam was because Im not sure if Im going to stay NA or bolt on a turbo...

I do know Im going to go with the LRIM (for the sexy sound)


hmmm... also the 270 Autotech kit is a good price no?


maybe I will go with the 276 +4 setup.... just gotta start saving my pennies...


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

IMHO the TT 268* is the best cam for the street. It has a nice idle and packs a GREAT midrange punch. When combined with a 4-2-1 header and a good 3 angle valve job you wind up with a very nice flat torque curve that makes things fun to drive. while the 276* will definitely make more top end it really doesn't shine without an SRI.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

vacuumnoise said:


> Yes I was referring to this individual, and there was a dyno once ( I think he ran the 276 on stock springs) the dyno he proved that the 276 cam made more power than the 270 cam on a stock head... and I remember him saying the temp was 220...


The night I did my 270 vs 276 dyno, the operator did his car too. Stock head, stock springs, GIAC chip, TT cat, and a catback. Made 119 with the 276 and 113 with the 270. And he made more power with the 276 over the entire 2500+ rpm recorded dynos. I wish I had copies of those runs to show. 

Dont get me wrong, the 270 is a great street cam for both NA and FI. But the 276 is a better cam profile. Lets be honest, once you mod to open to top end up, the 270 just doesnt please. Its better than the 268 even...and Ive seen some pretty impressive 268 dynos too. But against a 276, nothing compares for 3000+ rpm power.


----------



## jhad03 (Sep 28, 2012)

Hurt said:


> Get an aftermarket cam, you'll love it 100x more! 276 TT cam is the best all around cam for the ABA, especially if you have an adjustable camgear set to +5. More TQ, no high end loss. :thumbup:



thanks, i plan on doing springs, cam chip and a 276 with an adj gear next and calling it a day.

i was also considering (because of price) going with the 268/260 cam bc i wont need to do springs or change my eprom im running.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Prof315 said:


> IMHO the TT 268* is the best cam for the street. It has a nice idle and packs a GREAT midrange punch. When combined with a 4-2-1 header and a good 3 angle valve job you wind up with a very nice flat torque curve that makes things fun to drive. while the 276* will definitely make more top end it really doesn't shine without an SRI.




I dont know, in every dyno I've seen regardless of a SRIM, LRIM, or stock IM... I must admit the 276 with the 4 degrees advanced treatment outpowers the other setups with similiar mods.... (torque curve as well)

Like I stated the only reason I was debating the 270 cam was because I may go turbo.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> The night I did my 270 vs 276 dyno, the operator did his car too. Stock head, stock springs, GIAC chip, TT cat, and a catback. Made 119 with the 276 and 113 with the 270. And he made more power with the 276 over the entire 2500+ rpm recorded dynos. I wish I had copies of those runs to show.
> 
> Dont get me wrong, the 270 is a great street cam for both NA and FI. But the 276 is a better cam profile. Lets be honest, once you mod to open to top end up, the 270 just doesnt please. Its better than the 268 even...and Ive seen some pretty impressive 268 dynos too. But against a 276, nothing compares for 3000+ rpm power.


Travis is *this* the dyno?

hp








tq


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

nope


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> I dont know, in every dyno I've seen regardless of a SRIM, LRIM, or stock IM... I must admit the 276 with the 4 degrees advanced treatment outpowers the other setups with similiar mods.... (torque curve as well)
> 
> Like I stated the only reason I was debating the 270 cam was because I may go turbo.


For turbo I'd definitely use a 268 over a 270. On paper they look similar but the ramps are more agressive on the 268 hence the improved midrange. The 276 is a great grind but having done the semi race car thing on the street I'm more interested in the 2000-5000 rpm range than anything higher. I would love to try the new wide lobe spread 276 when the EFR goes in the car though...


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> nope


lol, sorry.. it was in my dyno notes by a quote regarding the 276 cam in stock head so i thought it possible...


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Prof315 said:


> For turbo I'd definitely use a 268 over a 270. On paper they look similar but the ramps are more agressive on the 268 hence the improved midrange. The 276 is a great grind but having done the semi race car thing on the street I'm more interested in the 2000-5000 rpm range than anything higher. I would love to try the new wide lobe spread 276 when the EFR goes in the car though...


you are referring to the 268/260 cam right?


----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Prof315 said:


> For turbo I'd definitely use a 268 over a 270. On paper they look similar but the ramps are more agressive on the 268 hence the improved midrange. The 276 is a great grind but having done the semi race car thing on the street I'm more interested in the 2000-5000 rpm range than anything higher. I would love to try the new wide lobe spread 276 when the EFR goes in the car though...


Higher rpm, less torque, better powerband, less spinning, faster car. It just sounds like you aren't interested in having a fast car like everybody else around here.

GD vw kids in your low end torque. What the hell are you doing at 2k, really. :laugh:

That said, i say get a 276 or 288. Boost or not, they'll make more power. If you're spending money on springs and A cam, i don't think that money is worth the jump from a 260 to a 270. Make it badass man, why not.


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> you are referring to the 268/260 cam right?


No straight up TT 268 (which is actually nothing more than a cam VW developed for mk2 golfs in brazil running ethanol)


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

gonna go with the 276.


----------



## CROWN (Jun 14, 2007)

vacuumnoise said:


> gonna go with the 276.


Good choice. its fun


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

root beer said:


> Higher rpm, less torque, better powerband, less spinning, faster car. It just sounds like you aren't interested in having a fast car like everybody else around here.
> 
> GD vw kids in your low end torque. What the hell are you doing at 2k, really. :laugh:
> 
> That said, i say get a 276 or 288. Boost or not, they'll make more power. If you're spending money on springs and A cam, i don't think that money is worth the jump from a 260 to a 270. Make it badass man, why not.


1: At 48 years old, I'm far from a kid. (except at heart )

2: As I stated earlier, I've done the semi race car on the street before, not interested.

3: I' ve got an 02A/02J mutt box that is geared up properly to where 2000-5000 is all I need.

4: Since the car all this stuff is going in is my DD fuel economy is also a factor. Wouldn't you like a car that runs low 13s-high 12s, has a top speed of 160+ mph AND gets 35-40mpg highway at 80mph?

5: Travis, tell him who I am..


----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Sorry, i don't mean to call you a kid.

What's that, 16.5:1 @ 80mph ? :laugh: That is a sweet combo.

Post your timeslip.

Idk, the way i drive my cars, and how centered they are in my life, fuel economy in a fast car has always been pretty low on my concerns.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

The TT268 is a HORRIBLE FI cam. 

Schrick and Neuspeed with 113* LSA's are the only 268* cams I would run in a FI ABA.


----------



## Glegor (Mar 31, 2008)

root beer said:


> Sorry, i don't mean to call you a kid.
> 
> What's that, 16.5:1 @ 80mph ? :laugh: That is a sweet combo.
> 
> ...


if you want QUICK, and FUEL ECONOMY, there is only one solution... DIESEL.


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

root beer said:


> Sorry, i don't mean to call you a kid.
> 
> What's that, 16.5:1 @ 80mph ? :laugh: That is a sweet combo.
> 
> ...


No offence taken on the kid thing. :thumbup: as i said I AM a kid at heart, just ask my wife!

Actually 15.7-16.0: 1, the secret is gearing and the advance table.

When the car is done it will go to the track and I will post a slip. Right now I'll be lucky to be in the 15s.

I want it all, fast, comfortable and economical. I have family all over the country and I like driving. I hadn't had this Corrado on the road for a week before i took it on a 1300 mile road trip/vacation.


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

911_fan said:


> The TT268 is a HORRIBLE FI cam.
> 
> Schrick and Neuspeed with 113* LSA's are the only 268* cams I would run in a FI ABA.


Well I have one and just might give it a try....but no matter it'll be a while as it's gonna take some moderately serious fabrication to get my lovely EFR6258 to fit in the Corrado's engine bay even with a straight ABA as opposed to a 20/20.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

You know what, I take that back. On a normal turbo daily driven car, the 268 would suck. But if you we're running a BT that didn't spool till high rpms, they it wouldn't be so bad; you wouldn't be pushing boost out the exhaust valve at low rpms.


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

911_fan said:


> You know what, I take that back. On a normal turbo daily driven car, the 268 would suck. But if you we're running a BT that didn't spool till high rpms, they it wouldn't be so bad; you wouldn't be pushing boost out the exhaust valve at low rpms.


It may still suck. Yes the EFR is a fairly big turbo especially for a T25/T28, but it's going to spool similarly to a K04 on a 1.8T, I'll be able to hit 20+ psi by 3500 _if I want to_.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Wish I had a K04 for my Passat. K03 stinks.


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Wish I had a K04 for my Passat. K03 stinks.


You know you can get an ebay K04 for a Passat that has a 1 year warranty for under $400. They actually are not bad and it's a direct bolt in for the K03.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

99MK3VDUB said:


> Great info here:thumbup:.....I'm building my head with HD Springs and Big Valve upgrade...How bad will the idle be ("loby") with a 276 NA for now?? Im thinking about going FI eventually but not 100% sure yet..I spoke with Colin and he says go with a 268, so how different are they REALLY ??


The 276* cam will be fine aslong as you have a cam-file-chip, or use a VAG-COM to change your idle to 1000. It'll be 100% fine.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

I know its the wrong thing to ask but presumably how much would I expect with the LRIM, 276 cam on a pretty much stock engine?

my mods: _Spectre Air Filter, OBX header, 42 Draft Designs hi-flow cat, Techtonics 2.25" exhaust w/ Dynomax muffler, BFI PEM stg.2 chip, Gruvenparts billet lightweight crank & alternator pulleys, TT 260* cam with AEG lifters._

I know its very speculative, just getting myself excited


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Have you been on a dyno with your current mods?


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

no, not yet

closest dyno is down in Newark, and havent had the time cuz I work almost everyday...


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Well, if I was to guess, I would put you at or around 110whp right now. Ya, I know that hurts to read, but it is what it is. The 276 alone should push you up to 120ish whp...a significant increase. But be aware that going with that cam is going to change how the acceleration FEELS. Its not going to feel as strong-then-taper off as it does with the 260 right now. Its going to feel more linear, especially as you get past 5000rpms. You'll hit the rev limiter before you feel its not making power anymore. The add the SRI. lol. Game changer.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Well, if I was to guess, I would put you at or around 110whp right now. Ya, I know that hurts to read, but it is what it is. The 276 alone should push you up to 120ish whp...a significant increase. But be aware that going with that cam is going to change how the acceleration FEELS. Its not going to feel as strong-then-taper off as it does with the 260 right now. Its going to feel more linear, especially as you get past 5000rpms. You'll hit the rev limiter before you feel its not making power anymore. The add the SRI. lol. Game changer.


nice, yeh I figured I am at 110whp, doesn't hurt to read...

so psyched on getting the cam and LRIM!!!


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

but I've also been debating selling the car and getting a VR6 Jetta... I know, I know... Blasphemy!


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> nice, yeh I figured I am at 110whp, doesn't hurt to read...
> 
> so psyched on getting the cam and LRIM!!!


 I'd imagine 125whp at most with the SRI and 276*, I only made 135 with mine and my head was ported at the time and had bigger valves than stock yadyadayayadadad



vacuumnoise said:


> but I've also been debating selling the car and getting a VR6 Jetta... I know, I know... Blasphemy!


I do enjoy VR6's, too. I love my A2 VR6. Anything in moderation.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

I made 135 on stock valves.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

hmm, 125whp is like what 150chp?

its upsetting, sometimes I think i should just do the NS SC and get at least 135-150whp... 

I mean I'd be spending the same amount of money on the LRIM and cam/springs/ etc. 

:facepalm:


----------



## jettred3 (Aug 5, 2005)

CROWN said:


> Good choice. its fun


Will be joining you guys soon.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> I made 135 on stock valves.


Was that with the 288* cam? Or the 276*? I was using a 02A, too, which is known for being more of a parasite to WHP ratings. :/



vacuumnoise said:


> hmm, 125whp is like what 150chp?
> 
> its upsetting, sometimes I think i should just do the NS SC and get at least 135-150whp...
> 
> ...


125whp is around like 150-155 BHP. The Neuspeed charger is a great option, you already have a 260* cam which is boost friendly.. Just get a 2.6" pulley and you'll see ~7.5 PSI and you'll have around 135-140 WHP. I enjoy my wife's MK4 2.0 Neuspeed S/C'd. It feels really strong, great dd.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> 125whp is around like 150-155 BHP. The Neuspeed charger is a great option, you already have a 260* cam which is boost friendly.. Just get a 2.6" pulley and you'll see ~7.5 PSI and you'll have around 135-140 WHP. I enjoy my wife's MK4 2.0 Neuspeed S/C'd. It feels really strong, great dd.


yeah, its also assuming I can find a NS SC complete and in good condition... :banghead:

If I did go with the NS SC I would also swap a 268/260 cam in...


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

276.

142 with the 288.

On stock valves. 

Oh, what I could have done with a BVH and MS&S.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> 276.
> 
> 142 with the 288.
> 
> ...


would love for you to get back into the 8v game...


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Might happen, but not to the scale you're probably hoping for. My daughter will be driving soon, and the plans are her buying an 8v Jetta. Simply for the fact that I know so much about these cars and can fix just about everything cuffed, blind folded, and in a coma.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

we both should get back in the 8v game. of course then i'd shoot for 600whp:laugh::banghead:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Might happen, but not to the scale you're probably hoping for. My daughter will be driving soon, and the plans are her buying an 8v Jetta. Simply for the fact that I know so much about these cars and can fix just about everything cuffed, blind folded, and in a coma.


nice, are you just gonna make it gas-efficient, max mpg?


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> we both should get back in the 8v game. of course then i'd shoot for 600whp:laugh::banghead:


:thumbup:

Quintin, the USRT LRIM doesn't come with a new throttle cable, does it?


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Yep. At 30+ mpg average, a tank of 87oct should last her a couple weeks. Wanna go OBDI for two reasons, the German head, and I can go Megasquirt.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> :thumbup:
> 
> Quintin, the USRT LRIM doesn't come with a new throttle cable, does it?


 negative


----------



## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

YOu guys give some great info....

I was going to go TT268 with the "Big Valve" and HD Springs upgrade and porting/polishing and all that...Head has been stripped, cleaned/blasted and flowed/pressure tested now ready for the grind ....I am certainly going with the TT276 +4* and maybe a snail down the road just so I can say I'VE DONE IT on an 8V .....

Question tho...C2 or TT chip?? I hear many say good and probably just as many saying bad about C2... I wanted to do M.S. eventually but its an OBDII head and I am probably going to DD this car then build a VRT I've had in my dreams a time or 2... :laugh: 

Thanks for the encouragement..you gentlemen are ALL doing GREAT things in the DUB WORLD !!!!


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

99MK3VDUB said:


> YOu guys give some great info....
> 
> I was going to go TT268 with the "Big Valve" and HD Springs upgrade and porting/polishing and all that...Head has been stripped, cleaned/blasted and flowed/pressure tested now ready for the grind ....I am certainly going with the TT276 +4* and maybe a snail down the road just so I can say I'VE DONE IT on an 8V .....
> 
> ...


C2 is fine, there aren't many problems with them anymore. You'll make more power with C2 than you would with TT, probably, since C2's tunes are the most recent.


----------



## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

Hurt said:


> C2 is fine, there aren't many problems with them anymore. You'll make more power with C2 than you would with TT, probably, since C2's tunes are the most recent.


Thanks for the info...i was kind of leaning that direction :thumbup:


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Yep. At 30+ mpg average, a tank of 87oct should last her a couple weeks. Wanna go OBDI for two reasons, the German head, and I can go Megasquirt.


Well just let me know if you want to go MS, I'd be glad to hook you up with a sweet deal and everything I've learned so far.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> negative


Im certainly not knocking your product as it is a great piece of machinery... but at $700 and then having to buy a VR throttle cable for another $50 plus shipping, it would be more appealing if it was a packaged kit, so it would be a straight bolt on: $700 for IM and throttle cable... and if the consumer didnt want the throttle cable it could be deducted.

I think if it was marketed more as "intake manifold conversion KIT" it would be far more appetizing for the $700 (plus shipping price)... :beer:


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

$700....lmao.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Prof315 said:


> Well just let me know if you want to go MS, I'd be glad to hook you up with a sweet deal and everything I've learned so far.


Actually had every intention to if it came to it. Fwiw, shoot me a message with some more info, ya?


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

99MK3VDUB said:


> YOu guys give some great info....
> 
> I was going to go TT268 with the "Big Valve" and HD Springs upgrade and porting/polishing and all that...Head has been stripped, cleaned/blasted and flowed/pressure tested now ready for the grind ....I am certainly going with the TT276 +4* and maybe a snail down the road just so I can say I'VE DONE IT on an 8V .....
> 
> ...



absolutely, this thread is full of a wealth of information :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> $700....lmao.


honestly I would have no issue spending the $700 if it came with everything to do the swap, I'll even buy the new IM gasket! but I use my car everyday (pizza delivery ~ no joke!) and I need to do work on my car on my one day off... and be back on the road with no issues. 

and Lets be honest those 7 bills are a good amount of cash.


----------



## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

vacuumnoise said:


> absolutely, this thread is full of a wealth of information :thumbup::thumbup:


No doubt about that...I wish I would have gotten on VORTEX years before I did when I started in the DUB WORLD...Probably woulda saved me a few headaches !!! :sly:


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Anyone have any real dyno's that compare a car with a stock airbox compared to a intake like a Neuspeed P-FLO or a Eurosport coolflo?


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Anyone have any real dyno's that compare a car with a stock airbox compared to a intake like a Neuspeed P-FLO or a Eurosport coolflo?


i think there was one on eurotuner when they did the 266 cam and chip dynos... google that..


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> i think there was one on eurotuner when they did the 266 cam and chip dynos... google that..


I have. Problem is, every aftermarket company is going to say their intake increases HP. According to TT, the stock airbox is better, but I don't think this is a 2.0 dyno..









In my 94, I have a Neuspeed top airbox set up to my SRI, very easy to make. Everything looks factory in the 94, I love the OEM+ look. Thinking of getting my SRI wrinklecoated black.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

^

hmm IDK, i cant find the Eurotuner dyno, I think they dynoed the Eurosport intake? and it made like 5whp I recall; I wonder if they were doing that dyno with the hood open


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> Im certainly not knocking your product as it is a great piece of machinery... but at $700 and then having to buy a VR throttle cable for another $50 plus shipping, it would be more appealing if it was a packaged kit, so it would be a straight bolt on: $700 for IM and throttle cable... and if the consumer didnt want the throttle cable it could be deducted.
> 
> I think if it was marketed more as "intake manifold conversion KIT" it would be far more appetizing for the $700 (plus shipping price)... :beer:


i'm sure we can work that package for you.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> i'm sure we can work that package for you.


:thumbup:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> :thumbup:


 :beer:
lemme know when ready


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> ^
> 
> hmm IDK, i cant find the Eurotuner dyno, I think they dynoed the Eurosport intake? and it made like 5whp I recall; I wonder if they were doing that dyno with the hood open


90% of dyno's have a industrial fan infront of the car to simulate airflow at a high speed. I'd imagine that makes certain "cold air intakes" perform better. Especially with the hood open. I tend to keep the stock airbox if I can on most of my cars. From what I've seen MK3's have pretty good airboxes. The whole "crappy flowing manifold" thing sort of makes that hard with a MK3. My GT has a conical air filter, because there's no real way for me to run a stock airbox because the TB is on the right side of the engine bay. My GL has a SRI, and I decided to take a Neuspeed S/C airbox and make that work, and I use a plain paper filter with it.. I don't think a cone on the end of the MAF or piece of pipe would make more power unless I put it infront of the headlight and removed the lense, ram-air style.


----------



## President Lincoln (Jun 27, 2005)

I'd like to build an aba but I can't evven get mine to run.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

this morning I decided...

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5850994-WTT-My-97-Jetta-ABA-(GT)-for-your-VR6

also if anyone wants to buy this thing outright I'd probably do it, shoot me an offer thru PM


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

dOWa242 said:


> I'd like to build an aba but I can't evven get mine to run.


Why not?


----------



## President Lincoln (Jun 27, 2005)

Prof315 said:


> Why not?


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5850274-aba-swap-into-my-91-coupe


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> this morning I decided to do a vr6 swap...
> 
> 
> also if anyone wants to buy this thing outright I'd probably do it, shoot me an offer thru PM



Why bother selling it? The car isn't rotting, which is a big plus. You probably won't find a cleaner VR6.

If you want a VR so bad, just buy a swap for ~1000 bucks. You could sell your motor/ecu/trans/subframes/suspension/etc to someone with an A2 looking for a swap, and that'd pay for most of the VR6 swap parts or wrecked VR6 swap car.

I have plenty of VR6 parts in my garage, I'm 99% sure I can piece together a complete OBD2 swap with the parts in there, along with a set of TT 264/260 VR cams and a few chips. :screwy:

PS: Please don't advertise your FS ad in this thread, it isn't meant for that.

- Colm


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Why bother selling it? The car isn't rotting, which is a big plus. You probably won't find a cleaner VR6.
> 
> If you want a VR so bad, just buy a swap for ~1000 bucks. You could sell your motor/ecu/trans/subframes/suspension/etc to someone with an A2 looking for a swap, and that'd pay for most of the VR6 swap parts or wrecked VR6 swap car.
> 
> ...


\\good point

but i just figured id let my fellow 8v brothers know in case they want an 8v thats in good condition... 

VR swap, eh seems more trouble than its worth... 

maybe if someone sells me a cheap worked 8v head, I'll keep the 8v


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> \\good point
> 
> but i just figured id let my fellow 8v brothers know in case they want an 8v thats in good condition...
> 
> ...


VR6 swaps take like a day. Less, if you work fast. I've had people drop off 8v's on saturday morning and drive off in 12v's on sunday afternoon. :laugh:

You want power, and you're looking into spending money on an SRI for 700 bucks.. 

You should just go Neuspeed S/C. You can find a good one in the classifieds for 1500. Sometimes even less. I bought mine new for 2500. But hey, it's worth it. You'll go from 110whp(what you have now, probably) to around 145whp with the 2.6 pulley. Neuspeed has dynos showing 135whp @ 6200 RPM on a stock S/C kit. So hey, maybe you'd make even a little more, like 150whp. 

My dd GL probably has around 125whp, and it's not too bad. But I have a SRI. 

Before that, my coupe had 160whp on a TT tune. 

Then my GT with 135whp with an 02A. 

Now, I'm at ~250whp+ with my GT, and loving every second of it. Boost is a very, very good option for the 8v.


----------



## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Hurt said:


> Boost is really the only option for the 8v.


FTFY. :laugh:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

AJmustDIE said:


> FTFY. :laugh:


ATTDT :laugh: (aint that the [email protected] truth)


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> VR6 swaps take like a day. Less, if you work fast. I've had people drop off 8v's on saturday morning and drive off in 12v's on sunday afternoon. :laugh:
> 
> You want power, and you're looking into spending money on an SRI for 700 bucks..
> 
> ...


I really appreciate your thoughts and suggestions, this is such a great thread! And I do :heart: my 8v...

I've been leaning towards the NS SC for awhile (due to price and the fact that maybe I can get 150whp out of it...)


At this time Im just going to continue to save money thru the winter, I had just re-registered my car, and am going to get an inspection soon... so there's no real reason to sell it, its been very reliable and good to me (for the most part) and since replacing my PCV or maybe its just the synthetic oil, my gas mileage has been excellent, and no more rev hang with the BFI stg 2 chip! 

Im not ruling out a VR for the future though, but at this time its not really very logical unless it was a "deal too good to be true".


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

I'm just going to keep saving money... 

But I'm still desperate for more power, I was even debating a used stock g60 cam (I've read this cam is stronger than the TT260...) and new lifters!  (can pick this all up for ~$150)

just to have a little extra hp/tq thru the winter :snowcool:


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Stock g60 cam ain't gonna do **** over a 260 cam.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Stock g60 cam ain't gonna do **** over a 260 cam.


noted

you think I should grab a 268/260 cam and new lifters for this winter ?

especially if I actually do pickup a NS SC in the future....

I need a little extra power man... thats just how I am, I like to be always modifying


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

The 268/260 is the g60 upgrade. Go with that.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> The 268/260 is the g60 upgrade. Go with that.


:thumbup:

1-3whp more than the 260? or just better powerband with a bit more torque? any benefit of cam gear adjusting with the asymmetrical cam ??


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

this will demonstrate my current state of boredom and lack of funds... 



















and the beast as it sits, nice n dirty jerzee


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

While this probably sounds odd coming from a Corrado guy.... Bahh to superchargers, give me a turbo every time. If you only want a little extra power, pick a small tight trimmed turbo. And the Bahh goes triple to VR6s. Hot running pita to work on...blehh. 4 bangers all the way!


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Prof315 said:


> While this probably sounds odd coming from a Corrado guy.... Bahh to superchargers, give me a turbo every time. If you only want a little extra power, pick a small tight trimmed turbo. And the Bahh goes triple to VR6s. Hot running pita to work on...blehh. 4 bangers all the way!


turbo would be great, its just due to cost, I mean I could try to piece together a custom Kit, and maybe it would wind up costing me ~$1500 but most likely more (decent parts people no ebay kits!)

The Kinetic kit is a good starter, since everything will fit fairly well and speed up installation.. but its over 2k $


----------



## Fast VW (Sep 24, 2002)

911_fan said:


> The 268/260 is the g60 upgrade. Go with that.


Why is this cam recommend so much more than the AT270? Is it simply because it doesn't require a spring upgrade?


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Yuuuuup.


----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

So i should have a fuel map in my **** tomorrow night. Timing soon after if everything turns green magically.

I'm kinda hoping to hit the 12.50 index at imports vs. domestics, the weekend of 11/1 and 11/2. I have to wire up a couple relays, and we're likely going to tune stock cam on a 75 shot just to get it going down the track.

*shouldn't hate vr's* STOCK motor....cams and all, heavy all motor street car, 13.2
Stock block, all motor street car, 11.60
Stock block, turbo car, 9.80

Show me a 4cyl that does that short of a k series honda....and that's a stretch in most cases. I know it's not all drag racing, but i think it's a decent measuring stick.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> I'm just going to keep saving money...
> 
> But I'm still desperate for more power, I was even debating a used stock g60 cam (I've read this cam is stronger than the TT260...) and new lifters!  (can pick this all up for ~$150)
> 
> just to have a little extra hp/tq thru the winter :snowcool:


Stock G60 cam isn't very good compared to the TT 260. The original 260/256 Autotech cam is an upgrade over the stock G60 cam.



vacuumnoise said:


> you think I should grab a 268/260 cam and new lifters for this winter ?
> 
> especially if I actually do pickup a NS SC in the future....


 Why bother? Just save up for the Neuspeed kit. Get the S/C kit first before the cam. Really, the Neuspeed kits are so easy to install, you can swap out a cam later down the road. TT 260 is good for boost.



911_fan said:


> The 268/260 is the g60 upgrade. Go with that.


Wasn't the 260/256 the g60 upgrade first? Curious.



vacuumnoise said:


> :thumbup:
> 
> 1-3whp more than the 260? or just better powerband with a bit more torque? any benefit of cam gear adjusting with the asymmetrical cam ??


Why bother? It's not worth 200 dollars for a cam and 80 for lifters for ~2-5whp. 



Fast VW said:


> Why is this cam recommend so much more than the AT270? Is it simply because it doesn't require a spring upgrade?


Preeettty much.



root beer said:


> So i should have a fuel map in my **** tomorrow night. Timing soon after if everything turns green magically.
> 
> I'm kinda hoping to hit the 12.50 index at imports vs. domestics, the weekend of 11/1 and 11/2. I have to wire up a couple relays, and we're likely going to tune stock cam on a 75 shot just to get it going down the track.
> 
> ...


Awesome. :thumbup:

VR6's are quite amazing engines, I love them. I have one in my A2 coupe, and I enjoy driving it aggressively. It's quite fast and with my suspension set up it handles pretty well. It just sticks on turn in. Feels great. VR6s = :thumbup:
I'm considering a 24v swap in my A2. How difficult is this? Could you send me a PM with some info, Tim? I'd really appreciate it. :wave:

~Colm


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Stock G60 cam isn't very good compared to the TT 260. The original 260/256 Autotech cam is an upgrade over the stock G60 cam.


I don't think so, I've seen this posted on vortex before: 
270 > 268/260 > G60 > 260 > STOCK


isn't the 260/256 AT cam is like that Neuspeed SC cam upgrade , read TOTALLY NOT WORTH IT.



Thanks for all the advice, I guess I have to just keep saving up $...


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

root beer said:


> *shouldn't hate vr's* STOCK motor....cams and all, heavy all motor street car, 13.2
> Stock block, all motor street car, 11.60
> Stock block, turbo car, 9.80
> 
> Show me a 4cyl that does that short of a k series honda....and that's a stretch in most cases. I know it's not all drag racing, but i think it's a decent measuring stick.


_ 
too true_


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> I don't think so, I've seen this posted on vortex before:
> 270 > 268/260 > G60 > 260 > STOCK
> 
> 
> ...


Here's some info I found about the two cams, they're pretty similar:

G60 Intake 212 @.050" .400" total lift
ABAOBDII 210 @.050" .416" total lift
G60 exhaust 232 @.050" .400" total lift
ABAOBDII 210 @.050" .417" total lift.

The autotech's 260/256 is a better cam than stock, slightly. It's more like:

OBD2=/=G60 cam


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

wish you would stop posting incorrect cam info, colm. the stock OBDII cam is does NOT have a 262* total duration. Even I have no idea what it is, but it is in the high 240*/low 250* range. 
For reference, a 256* duration measures out to about 216* @ .050" valve lift.

@ .040" of valve lift









@ .050" of valve lift

OBDI camshaft measured @ .050"
Advertised Duration: Unknown
Duration @ .050": 211*/212*
Valve Lift: .400"
Lift @ TDC: Unknown
Centerlines: 113.2* / 113.8*
Lobe Center: 113.5*
Valve Timing: -7.7/38.7 - 39.8/-7.8
Valve Overlap: -15.5*

OBDII camshaft measured @ .050"
Advertised Duration: Unknown
Duration @ .050": 210*/210*
Valve Lift: .417"
Lift @ TDC: Unknown
Centerlines: 110.8* / 109.2*
Lobe Center: 110*
Valve Timing: -5.8/35.8 - 34.2/-4.2
Valve Overlap: -10*


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Oh, and its .417" lift on both sides, not .416*.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Advertised G60 specs
Advertised Duration: 260/260
Advertised In/Ex centerlines: 100*/116*
Advertised Lobe Center: 113*
Advertised Timing: 30/50 - 66/14
Advertised overlap: 44*

G60 camshaft measured @ .050"/1mm
Duration @ .050": 214*/214*
Duration @ 1mm: 220*/220*
Valve Lift: .400"
Lift @ TDC: Unknown
[email protected] .050": 99* / 121*
[email protected] 1mm: 100* / 120*
Lobe Center: 110*
Valve Timing @ .050": 8/26 - 48/-14
Valve Overlap @ .050": -6* 
Valve Timing @ 1mm: 10/30 - 50/-10
Valve Overlap @ 1mm: 0*


----------



## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

Good info 911....Thanks :thumbup:

I'll be going with the TT276 and necessary head work while gathering the rest of the "Goodies" for BOOOOOOOST :laugh:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

99MK3VDUB said:


> Good info 911....Thanks :thumbup:
> 
> I'll be going with the TT276 and necessary head work while gathering the rest of the "Goodies" for BOOOOOOOST :laugh:


:thumbup:

do you plan on running the TT NA276 cam with boost? 

Not sure how that will be, but Im no expert in tuning turbo cars anyhow...


----------



## e-brake (Nov 20, 2008)

I've seen a lot of discussion about TT vs C2 but is anyone running United Motorsports tuning?

Any thoughts? I have a TT260 cam and K&N filter in the stock box. The car is a daily driver and I've debated boosting it with a 16G someday.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> wish you would stop posting incorrect cam info, colm. the stock OBDII cam is does NOT have a 262* total duration.


Sorry ;O


----------



## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

vacuumnoise said:


> :thumbup:
> 
> do you plan on running the TT NA276 cam with boost?
> 
> Not sure how that will be, but Im no expert in tuning turbo cars anyhow...


Yes the plan (as it stands right now) is to finish the head head work first, (Ported,HD Srings, Bigger Valves) with TT276 cam and C2 software then get the turbo setup together. The head is prepped and I have everything aside from the CAM so I've gotta get my A$$ in gear...I'm doing much more than just motor work...interior, body, wheels, and "stance" are all that are in progress too, all at the same time...I need to adjust my priorities back to the engine bay for now. 

I am unsure also if the TT276 will be effective with boost but I am honestly on the fence as to what my final plans are with the engine. (I REALLY want to do a VR_T)... I may ask some of the "Pros" on here that have had much more experience than I with the FI setups on these motors when the time for boost is near ...Sounds like 268/260 or a straight 268 will be best for boosted apps.. 

Anyone with first hand advice/input on this would be MUCH appreciated...


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

99MK3VDUB said:


> Yes the plan (as it stands right now) is to finish the head head work first, (Ported,HD Srings, Bigger Valves) with TT276 cam and C2 software then get the turbo setup together. The head is prepped and I have everything aside from the CAM so I've gotta get my A$$ in gear...I'm doing much more than just motor work...interior, body, wheels, and "stance" are all that are in progress too, all at the same time...I need to adjust my priorities back to the engine bay for now.
> 
> I am unsure also if the TT276 will be effective with boost but I am honestly on the fence as to what my final plans are with the engine. (I REALLY want to do a VR_T)... I may ask some of the "Pros" on here that have had much more experience than I with the FI setups on these motors when the time for boost is near ...Sounds like 268/260 or a straight 268 will be best for boosted apps..
> 
> Anyone with first hand advice/input on this would be MUCH appreciated...


from the numbers Ive seen, the 268/260 cam or 270 cam seem to make good numbers with boost...

a bit off topic but I just drove a K24 Civic with stage 2 cams, and all I can say is WOW


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

99MK3VDUB said:


> Yes the plan (as it stands right now) is to finish the head head work first, (Ported,HD Srings, Bigger Valves) with TT276 cam and C2 software then get the turbo setup together. The head is prepped and I have everything aside from the CAM so I've gotta get my A$$ in gear...I'm doing much more than just motor work...interior, body, wheels, and "stance" are all that are in progress too, all at the same time...I need to adjust my priorities back to the engine bay for now.
> 
> I am unsure also if the TT276 will be effective with boost but I am honestly on the fence as to what my final plans are with the engine. (I REALLY want to do a VR_T)... I may ask some of the "Pros" on here that have had much more experience than I with the FI setups on these motors when the time for boost is near ...Sounds like 268/260 or a straight 268 will be best for boosted apps..
> 
> Anyone with first hand advice/input on this would be MUCH appreciated...


LOL STANCE LOL

If you want the ultimate power, get a WLC 114* 276. I have one and it pulls from 2500 to the cutoff like a freight train. No real low end loss, but I have a supercharger, so.. moot point. I'd imagine with a turbo that spooled fully at around 4000 RPM it'd be a really nice combo.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

driving around today contemplating a VR6... 
decent pulls at around 8:50 and 12:48 and 17:33

 we need more video pulls, especially from those with crazy supercharger setups!


----------



## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

Hurt said:


> LOL STANCE LOL
> 
> If you want the ultimate power, get a WLC 114* 276. I have one and it pulls from 2500 to the cutoff like a freight train. No real low end loss, but I have a supercharger, so.. moot point. I'd imagine with a turbo that spooled fully at around 4000 RPM it'd be a really nice combo.


LMAO....I figured you and a few other's would get a kick out of the "STANCE" I tossed in there....I really wanted to baggggg it initially but not this one..I think I'll play around with this one a bit, keep it as a dependable DD and proceed with the VR_T :laugh:

What is this "WLC 114* 276" you speak of ?


----------



## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

vacuumnoise said:


> driving around today contemplating a VR6...
> decent pulls at around 8:50 and 12:48 and 17:33
> 
> we need more video pulls, especially from those with crazy supercharger setups!


TRUE...I'm doing a VR_T in the near future but I'm going to take my time and do it right so it will take months, especially with this being my first VR build.....They are NASTY for sure, Im pretty excited :laugh:


----------



## Fast VW (Sep 24, 2002)

911_fan said:


> Yuuuuup.


That's what I thought. Then here is what I have to say: Man up and stop being a puss. Upgrade the valve springs and stop being a pansy. You must pay to play.


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

vacuumnoise said:


> this will demonstrate my current state of boredom and lack of funds...


You can't afford masking tape, or a few minutes to unbolt the damn manifold? :screwy:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

MrMook said:


> You can't afford masking tape, or a few minutes to unbolt the damn manifold? :screwy:


haha, dont worry we'll live


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

MrMook said:


> You can't afford masking tape, or a few minutes to unbolt the damn manifold? :screwy:


 that money went towards the ramen noodles.:laugh:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> that money went towards the ramen noodles.:laugh:


nah its going towards a VR6


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> nah its going towards a VR6


 should be going for a boosted 8v


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> should be going for a boosted 8v


idk, the VR is no joke, and I love the sound... but I do :heart: my 8v too, its been good to me.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

99MK3VDUB said:


> LMAO....I figured you and a few other's would get a kick out of the "STANCE" I tossed in there....I really wanted to baggggg it initially but not this one..I think I'll play around with this one a bit, keep it as a dependable DD and proceed with the VR_T :laugh:
> 
> What is this "WLC 114* 276" you speak of ?


_Wide Lobe Center_. It's a 2nd version of the 276* cam, made for high boost applications.

My car runs ~1.4 BAR and I love that cam. I still have the 268/260* that came with the kit, but I didn't even bother with it as I have already run a car with a 268/260 and I could tell the power difference between the 2 cams was HUGE.

My car pulls to 7200 RPM so quickly, if I don't watch the tach very, very carefully, I hit the limiter. MK3 clusters = suck. Even with an ABF cluster I still hit the cutoff occasionally. 

Dyno tuning coming soon, along with a new C2 chip burn with a 8000 RPM cutoff, depending on how much power I make over the curve and how much I tune my cam-gear and all that non-sense. Hoping for around 250whp at the least. If my goals aren't met I will be buying the BBM Forged Piston set, and getting a custom pulley made to run more boost. :thumbup:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> _Wide Lobe Center_. It's a 2nd version of the 276* cam, made for high boost applications.
> 
> My car runs ~1.4 BAR and I love that cam. I still have the 268/260* that came with the kit, but I didn't even bother with it as I have already run a car with a 268/260 and I could tell the power difference between the 2 cams was HUGE.
> 
> ...



wow 

cant wait to see that graph ic:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

think I am just going to search for a NS SC... I feel committed to that, unless I found a VR for that great of a price and close location too...

check out this video NS SC 




154whp/170wtq

2.6" pulley (8psi ), 268/260 cam ,2 1/2 downpipe,2 1/4 exhaust ,cold air intake -- 91 oct

I wonder if it was on the NS chip?

also says for block BEV engine code?


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Go with the NS setup! Doesn't make gobs of power but it is a really neat piece :thumbup: that one in the vid you posted makes a little more whp and quite a bit more tq than a stock VR would! With those mods +headwork and a close ratio stack that thing would move.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

MahTrek=] said:


> Go with the NS setup! Doesn't make gobs of power but it is a really neat piece :thumbup: that one in the vid you posted makes a little more whp and quite a bit more tq than a stock VR would! With those mods +headwork and a close ratio stack that thing would move.



yeh and I already have a decent exhaust setup, its just not economical to really sell my car right now, et cetera.

so now I'm on a search for Neuspeed Supercharge, if anyone has one they want to sell; contact me! Money in hand!

long live the 8v


----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

waste


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

root beer said:


> waste


I don't think its a waste if I can pick one up for 1k


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> think I am just going to search for a NS SC... I feel committed to that, u
> 
> 
> 154whp/170wtq
> ...


That's the same setup as what my wife's MK4 has, except her exhaust is bigger, and she has an airbox. Hers is an automatic. She says it doesn't feel much different than her MK6. I enjoy it, but it's a MK4.. So.. don't tell anyone I like it. 

155whp in a ~2600lb a3 is pretty darn good. You'll pull on bolt-on GSR's and EM1's, no problem. My 94 feels good with ~120-125whp, and I daily it.. Driven around 4k miles on it since I got it. 

The Neuspeed kit is very, very good. I've enjoyed it on every A3 I've owned.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> That's the same setup as what my wife's MK4 has, except her exhaust is bigger, and she has an airbox. Hers is an automatic. She says it doesn't feel much different than her MK6. I enjoy it, but it's a MK4.. So.. don't tell anyone I like it.
> 
> 155whp in a ~2600lb a3 is pretty darn good. You'll pull on bolt-on GSR's and EM1's, no problem. My 94 feels good with ~120-125whp, and I daily it.. Driven around 4k miles on it since I got it.
> 
> The Neuspeed kit is very, very good. I've enjoyed it on every A3 I've owned.


yeh it would be fun, now i just have to find one!


----------



## Fast VW (Sep 24, 2002)

For what it's worth, I currently have:

Mk3
Neuspeed Supercharger with 2.4" pulley
C2 Motorsports 30# tune and injectors
AT 270 cam
AT SS 2 1/4 catback exhaust - the older one with the single tip
Snow Performance stage 3 MAX-MPG w/m injection kit
Vibratechnics motor mounts and lots of other goodies that really do not affect HP

The car pulls really hard from 3,000 rpm to 5,500 rpm. After 6,000 rpm it dies very fast. It accelerates pretty quick. I had the car going 130mph and it was still accelerating but I ran out of balls. If I get the car in first gear and cruise around 10-15mph and go WOT it will break the tires loose. The set up is very reliable but for the same amount of money and time I could have lots more had I gone another route. My only complaint at this point is I have no way to increase boost beyond a 2.4" pulley as it would spin the charger to fast.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Fast VW said:


> For what it's worth, I currently have:
> 
> Mk3
> Neuspeed Supercharger with 2.4" pulley
> ...


would you mind taking a video pull/s??? ic:ic:


I think I've made up my mind to go turbo unless a NS SC comes my way... I can't sell my car I've put too much work into it, and I know it will last me awhile (I use it every day for work, so any car I buy I would need to trust it would be reliable)... so its just not worth it financially.


----------



## Fast VW (Sep 24, 2002)

vacuumnoise said:


> would you mind taking a video pull/s??? ic:ic:


I don't mind. I just need to convince my wife to sit in the back seat with a camera while I drive like an A-Hole.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> _Wide Lobe Center_. It's a 2nd version of the 276* cam, made for high boost applications.
> 
> My car runs ~1.4 BAR and I love that cam. I still have the 268/260* that came with the kit, but I didn't even bother with it as I have already run a car with a 268/260 and I could tell the power difference between the 2 cams was HUGE.
> 
> ...


i keep tellin people that WLSA 276 is noJOKE! if you could put your results in my thread i'd love u much:beer:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-TURBO-JUNKIES!/page3&p=78932380#post78932380


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Fast VW said:


> I don't mind. I just need to convince my wife to sit in the back seat with a camera while I drive like an A-Hole.


just get her some roses, trust me it'll work! :beer:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> I don't think its a waste if I can pick one up for 1k


 hmmm...

HX35 $150
turbo mani $250
c2 stage 1 fueling package $600


the rest im sure u can scrounge together for another $500 (piping hell use pvc pipe!:laugh:, wastgate, downpipe)

On 8.5:1 compression i was seeing 6psi by 3200ish so i'm sure you'll see it much ealier with 10:1 and make 160+WHP and drive everyday.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> hmmm...
> 
> HX35 $150
> turbo mani $250
> ...


:thumbup:

I wish I could find a pre built manifold + downpipe combo

the rest I'm sure I could scrounge together...


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

i'm sure an exhaust shop could weld something together for u for another $100. It's pretty simple down and out design with the atp or kinetic manifold. you could also find a turbo off a Ford turbo coupe or svo that has an internal wastegate to save on cost. it's just small and would max around 225~250whp. 


opcorn:WARNING: ONCE YOU GO BOOST.....THE ADDICTION NEVER LEAVES.opcorn:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> i'm sure an exhaust shop could weld something together for u for another $100. It's pretty simple down and out design with the atp or kinetic manifold. you could also find a turbo off a Ford turbo coupe or svo that has an internal wastegate to save on cost. it's just small and would max around 225~250whp.
> 
> 
> opcorn:WARNING: ONCE YOU GO BOOST.....THE ADDICTION NEVER LEAVES.opcorn:


haha, hmm

well the thing like I've stated prior in this thread I use this car everyday for pizza delivery (yes I'm 27 years old and I deliver pizza, the money is good, I've worked there a long time and I do Okay, and it funds my other artistic endeavors...) ANYHOW... so I would have to install the turbo et cetera and then drive to the exhaust shop and have them do the downpipe...
.
So that would be a fun drive, open turbo!


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> haha, hmm
> 
> well the thing like I've stated prior in this thread I use this car everyday for pizza delivery (yes I'm 27 years old and I deliver pizza, the money is good, I've worked there a long time and I do Okay, and it funds my other artistic endeavors...) ANYHOW... so I would have to install the turbo et cetera and then drive to the exhaust shop and have them do the downpipe...
> .
> So that would be a fun drive, open turbo!


yea it's not too loud in reality


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> yea it's not too loud in reality


yeh, its just the heat that you have to worry about right?


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> yeh, its just the heat that you have to worry about right?


just drive with no hood! :laugh:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> just drive with no hood! :laugh:


haha, I'm getting excited

I'd say its more likely I'll go turbo than NS SC seeing as how theyr impossible to find, and more hp is always nice too


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

and THAT ladies and gentlemen is how it begins....

5yrs later when your wallet is full of dust you still manage to keep the car and you're eating ramen noodles to survive. 

Boost...worse than drugs


----------



## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

Hurt said:


> _Wide Lobe Center_. It's a 2nd version of the 276* cam, made for high boost applications.
> 
> My car runs ~1.4 BAR and I love that cam. I still have the 268/260* that came with the kit, but I didn't even bother with it as I have already run a car with a 268/260 and I could tell the power difference between the 2 cams was HUGE.
> 
> ...


Ok Ok Im convinced...TURBO it is...Now to get all the particulars, what turbo I want (best for my app) and all associated goodies to go along with it. I'm not trying to build a track car, just want fun and reliable as much as possible anyway with all the mods done...and when you refer to "HIGH BOOST" are we talking 20-25psi or what?? I just feel the 276* may be a bit aggressive no?

SO is TT's 276* the new WLC version (guess I could have asked Colin) or do i need to go with a different one? HD springs and Big Valve kit is on its way from TT already. I wanted to get the headwork done and prepped for the cam, then drop it in and go from there..


----------



## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> and THAT ladies and gentlemen is how it begins....
> 
> 5yrs later when your wallet is full of dust you still manage to keep the car and you're eating ramen noodles to survive.
> 
> Boost...worse than drugs


TRUE STORY...!! Thank GOD I have 2 JOBS :facepalm:

Tear Down time begins NOW


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

99MK3VDUB said:


> Ok Ok Im convinced...TURBO it is...Now to get all the particulars, what turbo I want (best for my app) and all associated goodies to go along with it. I'm not trying to build a track car, just want fun and reliable as much as possible anyway with all the mods done...and when you refer to "HIGH BOOST" are we talking 20-25psi or what?? I just feel the 276* may be a bit aggressive no?
> 
> SO is TT's 276* the new WLC version (guess I could have asked Colin) or do i need to go with a different one? HD springs and Big Valve kit is on its way from TT already. I wanted to get the headwork done and prepped for the cam, then drop it in and go from there..


 no there's the standard 276 and then the wide LSA 276 which i had him make cause my 8vT needed more up top....and BOY did i get what i asked for!

The 276 WLSA is absolutely a blast to drive daily. plenty of midrange for around town and it's GONE on the hwy :laugh:


If you're interested in getting one pm me lemme know the rest of your setup as well :beer:


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> and THAT ladies and gentlemen is how it begins....
> 
> 5yrs later when your wallet is full of dust you still manage to keep the car and you're eating ramen noodles to survive.
> 
> Boost...worse than drugs


SOOOOOO true! :laugh:


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> haha, I'm getting excited
> 
> I'd say its more likely I'll go turbo than NS SC seeing as how theyr impossible to find, and more hp is always nice too


Here's a good turbo choice IMO http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5818494-FS-Garrett-GT28R-and-tubular-manifold-for-1.8t And this one is a better deal http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...28-flange-NEW-1.8t-atp-manifold-NEW-t3-flange


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Fast VW said:


> For what it's worth, I currently have:
> 
> Mk3
> Neuspeed Supercharger with 2.4" pulley
> ...


Are you sure you lose power after 6k? It might just be mental. From the charts I've seen, stock aba peak power is ~5.5k. Neuspeed charger moves it to 6.2k, and the 270* cam does help quite a bit. You should consider a 276 WLSA cam if you want more power. Really. It's so worth it.



Fast VW said:


> I don't mind. I just need to convince my wife to sit in the back seat with a camera while I drive like an A-Hole.


 Good luck.. 



[email protected] said:


> i keep tellin people that WLSA 276 is noJOKE! if you could put your results in my thread i'd love u much:beer:
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-TURBO-JUNKIES!/page3&p=78932380#post78932380


I will when I get my dyno-graph. :thumbup:
It's definitely a great cam. I can drive at 1/2 throttle/boost and still have the car pull to 7k. I am so glad I didn't use the 268/260 instead. 

Hardest part about driving my car is the traction issues in 1st and 2nd! And I'm using HUGE (by vortex standards) 225 tires on 16x8's!

I have my Koni's set up for MAX traction on the front wheels (set up done by a good friend of mine that drag races FWD Honda's).. I still spin til around 40 or 45. I have to shift into 2nd slowly, because even if I chirp, I SPIN. It was a lot worse when I first finished the car and had ultra lows on it, though. 

My GT handles, drives good daily (heat, ac, ps, heated seats..etc), and goes fast in a straight line. What more can I ask for? :laugh:

Hoping for 250WHP at the least. 300 at most. If not, BBM's piston kit is going in, along with a higher boost pulley and *maybe* meth/water injection or nitrous.


----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Do you have a diff ?


----------



## Fast VW (Sep 24, 2002)

Roses didn't work. So I did it myself:

The Car:


























The video:


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Fast VW said:


> Roses didn't work. So I did it myself


haha, :thumbup:

beautiful car, 1st looked like it pulled good but to be honest I was expecting more on 2nd and even up top on the highway... still :thumbup: very clean Mk3


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## Fast VW (Sep 24, 2002)

vacuumnoise said:


> haha, :thumbup:
> 
> beautiful car, 1st looked like it pulled good but to be honest I was expecting more on 2nd and even up top on the highway... still :thumbup: very clean Mk3


Thanks. It is what it is. If I could do it over I would have built a turbo set up for sure but it has been a fun learning experience.


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## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

On the Neuspeed supercharger, where the hell does the smaller vacuum port on the back of the charger go? I just hooked this thing back up and I cant remember where the line went to. My guess was it was one of the smaller splits from the brake booster line.

Its the smaller port just above the brake booster line.

Can we get an engine bay shot?


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

root beer said:


> Do you have a diff ?


Yes, I do. :thumbup:


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## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> no there's the standard 276 and then the wide LSA 276 which i had him make cause my 8vT needed more up top....and BOY did i get what i asked for!
> 
> The 276 WLSA is absolutely a blast to drive daily. plenty of midrange for around town and it's GONE on the hwy :laugh:
> 
> ...


THanks Quintin...I have tons of work ahead so it will take time I'm sure..I'll be in touch.

I am also thinking of running of an SRI as well but $700 seems pricey for my "budget" at the moment, especially with everything I have planned for this car


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

99MK3VDUB said:


> I am also thinking of running of an SRI as well but $700 seems pricey for my "budget" at the moment, especially with everything I have planned for this car


SRI's are a definite requirement to make good power out a 2.0 N/A or turbo.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

And they sound mean as s_h_it :laugh:

Hurt, I've finally finished my list and lined up a few things for my build, the top end atleast. I'm stoked, I leave back to Alaska in a week and I'll be gone til March, but when I return it's a go :thumbup: been toying with the idea of a high comp (11.1+ if I can get away with 92 octane ) aeg block with a TDI crank and 84mm pistons. I think that will put me at almost a 2.2 lol Forgive me if there is inaccurate info here. Still learning all this :thumbup:


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## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

Hurt said:


> SRI's are a definite requirement to make good power out a 2.0 N/A or turbo.


Thanks Sir....I will be getting one or having it made...I just wish I could make my own and save a TON of $$$ but don't have a welder and haven't welded since a few years after High School..... 12+ yrs ago  

I just wished there were more options instead of a $700 bill although USRT's is a QUALITY PRODUCT I have tons of things I want to do and have more than one project going at once :banghead:

Quick Question.....Do I have to run different injectors/rail with an SRI and can I use the stock crap until I upgrade the entire fuel system??


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

You dont have to, i run the USRT longrunner intake manifold on my n/a 8v with stock fuel rail and injectors...fits perfectly

Sent from my VS840 4G using Tapatalk 2


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## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

02vwgolf said:


> You dont have to, i run the USRT longrunner intake manifold on my n/a 8v with stock fuel rail and injectors...fits perfectly
> 
> Sent from my VS840 4G using Tapatalk 2



Thanks for the info but your LRI is on an 02 Golf right, isn't this a bit different than a Mk3 being that its a Mk4.. Plus there are Different injectors and rail on an Mk4 than the Mk3 which is why people on here say to use the Mk4 fuel rail/injectors for the swap or double up o-rings or use a kit from USRT to convert...

I'm curious also as to if there will be any Clearance issues with the LRI on a Mk3 ??


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

99MK3VDUB said:


> Quick Question.....Do I have to run different injectors/rail with an SRI and can I use the stock crap until I upgrade the entire fuel system??


You can use the stock fuel rail and injectors. You're thinking of the MK4 intake manifold swap, that's the one where people run into issues with the stock fuel rail and injectors.

The stock fuel system does very well, considering how far you can mod these cars without the injectors being a weak link. 

There are no real fitment issues with an SRI at all. It depends on what side you want your TB on, of course. Most people get them on the passenger side. I'd recommend that, unless you want it on the driver side and you don't have a battery taking up the space.

Here's a DIY on installing the SRI. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2639563


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## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

Hurt said:


> You can use the stock fuel rail and injectors. You're thinking of the MK4 intake manifold swap, that's the one where people run into issues with the stock fuel rail and injectors.
> 
> The stock fuel system does very well, considering how far you can mod these cars without the injectors being a weak link.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the clarification...You are the man:thumbup::thumbup:

Let me clarify a bit as to what I'm doing... I have the MK4 conversion and in the process of installing over the next few days...Battery is also going in the trunk once the final 2 pieces arrive (0 AWG Fuse holder, Optima battery mount) so essentially both sides will be empty, also deleting the stupid SAI because they are the dumbest thing on Earth. The pump just took a sh!t on me and now throwing a CEL as well...I'm SO GLAD I spent the money on a VAG-COM, so far the best $300 I've spent on these cars to date...Already revamped it with the DIY I found on the vortex :laugh:

I AM officially going to do a turbo but it will most likely be a bit down the road so I plan on running it NA most likely for a little while (while deciding on which starter turbo to go with and gathering necessary parts) so my thoughts were to clean up the bay, also making room for the turbo setup when I am ready to do it. I may go ahead and do turbo now but the funds gotta line up right so we shall see.. 

I guess at this point I feel the need to ask...is the MK4 conversion a waste of time with future intent of going FI ?? AND with BOOST do I want the TB on Pass or DR side??


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

99MK3VDUB said:


> Thanks for the clarification...You are the man:thumbup::thumbup:
> 
> Let me clarify a bit as to what I'm doing... I have the MK4 conversion and in the process of installing over the next few days...Battery is also going in the trunk once the final 2 pieces arrive (0 AWG Fuse holder, Optima battery mount)
> 
> ...


No problem at all. I enjoy giving back to the community. :thumbup:

The MK4 conversion would be a waste of time and effort in my opinion if you're going to get an SRI soon. 

The reason alot of people use MK4 manifolds on turbo cars is so they can route the chargepiping so much easier with the throttlebody on the driver side. If you're going to boost it, I'd definitely go with it on the driver side. Check this thread out for some reference points:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4908506-ABA-turbo-setups


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## Fast VW (Sep 24, 2002)

Alingarhs said:


> On the Neuspeed supercharger, where the hell does the smaller vacuum port on the back of the charger go? I just hooked this thing back up and I cant remember where the line went to. My guess was it was one of the smaller splits from the brake booster line.
> 
> Its the smaller port just above the brake booster line.
> 
> Can we get an engine bay shot?





















I do not think these show what you are referring to. The vacuum port on the bottom goes to the brake booster. Then there are 2 on top. One goes to the bypass valve the other just gets capped off.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

i love how this went from an N/A thread...to F_U_CK IT LET'S BOOST IT! :laugh: i'm a bad influence


also...i really think with the right cam, a 12psi pulley, w/m, and the right tune 200whp should be easily doable on the NOspeed charger. That's just me. I thought about building one just for ****s and giggles.


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## Fast VW (Sep 24, 2002)

[email protected] said:


> i love how this went from an N/A thread...to F_U_CK IT LET'S BOOST IT! :laugh: i'm a bad influence


"How to build a relatively inexpensive, reliable, 'powerful' 2.0 8v."

It seems fitting given the title of the thread.


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## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

In your picture, the brake booster line with the green cap on it is where I have the vacuum line going into the top port. Doesn't run bad or strange idle. But are you saying you capped that off?
Here is what I mean.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> i love how this went from an N/A thread...to F_U_CK IT LET'S BOOST IT! :laugh: i'm a bad influence
> 
> 
> also...i really think with the right cam, a 12psi pulley, w/m, and the right tune 200whp should be easily doable on the NOspeed charger. That's just me. I thought about building one just for ****s and giggles.


do you think the cam of choice would be the 276turbo cam?


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## Fast VW (Sep 24, 2002)

Alingarhs said:


> In your picture, the brake booster line with the green cap on it is where I have the vacuum line going into the top port. Doesn't run bad or strange idle. But are you saying you capped that off?


Yes, the charger came with that port capped off.


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## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

Hurt said:


> No problem at all. I enjoy giving back to the community. :thumbup:
> 
> The MK4 conversion would be a waste of time and effort in my opinion if you're going to get an SRI soon.
> 
> ...


Thanks a MILLION.:thumbup::thumbup:..I sub'd it so I can refer back to it shortly...due to this:

Guess I'll be setting up the turbo NOW instead of later, one of the shop owners I deal with (Commercial Sales @ Oreilly's Side Job) has a COMPLETE Garret T3/T4(I think) with 46 or 48 trim I believe, with 0 shaft play and it looks brand new....FOR $80 since its me and he said he would give me a BOV as well since he has a few spares from his Twin Turbo Supra. I figure for $80 I would be stupid not to snatch it up even though it appears to be a TINY turbo. I can always sell it later or whatever, maybe put it in my crotchrocket :laugh: ....... I am gonna get it tomorrow from him so I'll have all the details on it. Now I just need EVERYTHING ELSE for the build :what:


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## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> i love how this went from an N/A thread...to F_U_CK IT LET'S BOOST IT! :laugh: i'm a bad influence
> 
> 
> also...i really think with the right cam, a 12psi pulley, w/m, and the right tune 200whp should be easily doable on the NOspeed charger. That's just me. I thought about building one just for ****s and giggles.




YES QUINTIN....LET'S BOOOOOOOOOST that **** !!!!!

BTW I'll take that CAM NOW :laugh:


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> do you think the cam of choice would be the 276turbo cam?


given the response i've gotten from the N/A and turbo crowd as well as my own personal experience....that's a resounding YES.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

99MK3VDUB said:


> Thanks a MILLION.:thumbup::thumbup:..I sub'd it so I can refer back to it shortly...due to this:
> 
> Guess I'll be setting up the turbo NOW instead of later, one of the shop owners I deal with (Commercial Sales @ Oreilly's Side Job) has a COMPLETE Garret T3/T4(I think) with 46 or 48 trim I believe, with 0 shaft play and it looks brand new....FOR $80 since its me and he said he would give me a BOV as well since he has a few spares from his Twin Turbo Supra. I figure for $80 I would be stupid not to snatch it up even though it appears to be a TINY turbo. I can always sell it later or whatever, maybe put it in my crotchrocket :laugh: ....... I am gonna get it tomorrow from him so I'll have all the details on it. Now I just need EVERYTHING ELSE for the build :what:


It's not a t3t4 if it appears to be tiny.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> given the response i've gotten from the N/A and turbo crowd as well as my own personal experience....that's a resounding YES.




that guy who dynoed 180whp on the NS SC should grab that cam; I think he has a white Mk3 Jetta right?


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## jhad03 (Sep 28, 2012)

Fast VW said:


>


whats the need for the giant pcv tube routed across the engine bay?

i think if it was me i would plug the pcv hole in the intake and just use a catch can. i dont like oil in my intake system.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

jhad03 said:


> whats the need for the giant pcv tube routed across the engine bay?
> 
> i think if it was me i would plug the pcv hole in the intake and just use a catch can. i dont like oil in my intake system.


Neuspeed's SC kit is pretty OEM-looking, I think they pride themselves on that. I personally like the way they make the stock airbox work instead of slapping a cone filter on the end, keeps it more OEM looking. The PCV isn't really that big of an issue.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I can't find ANYTHING about a open cone filter VS the ABA's stock airbox. This is so aggravating..


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Everyone knows that an open cone filter is louder than a non-modded airbox..

Louder = MORE POWERRRRR!!!!! Duh Colm umpkin:

Really though, I'd be interested in results. I usually try to go the modded airbox route :thumbup:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

The stock air box has two very major advantages over a 'cone'.

1- the integrated velocity stack. Absolutely essential to straighten air past the MAF sensor. #1 mistake when installing a cone without keeping the stack attached to the MAF. People have complained about dead spots in certain rpm ranges, this is why.

2- the interior plastic rib design of the air box itself. For some reason, people seem to think that removing these ribs, or 'shaving' the inside, somehow increases airflow potential. Fact of the matter is, the air box is actually a resonance chamber, much like the plenum of an intake manifold. These ribs keep unwanted resonant waves from reverting back up the intake and creating dead spots. 

On an engine that will utilizes the stock box, I would open up the lower box opening and run a cold air feed from the bumper area. I would also replace the stock accordion intake tube for a smooth pipe for better air flow.


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

I like cones, and i like airboxes. Cones are bad if you don't at least have a 90 before our bull**** MAF.

The other major advantage to airboxes comes when you need to ride dirty over a large distance.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

root beer said:


> I like cones, and i like airboxes. Cones are bad if you don't at least have a 90 before our bull**** MAF.
> 
> The other major advantage to airboxes comes when you need to ride dirty over a large distance.


granted I don't have dyno results to back this up, but my setup "feels" better than my old stock cutup airbox with K&N, especially between 2-3K


























but I think about swapping the Spectre air filter for a BPi filter http://www.bpi-us.com/filterkits.php


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## 6OlfeR (Apr 6, 2012)

What if you cut open the lower airbox and put a cone filter inside of the airbox? Would this be a good or bad idea?

Sent from the future


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

6OlfeR said:


> What if you cut open the lower airbox and put a cone filter inside of the airbox? Would this be a good or bad idea?
> 
> Sent from the future


You won't find a cone filter small enough that will fit inside the air box and retain the velocity stack.


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## 6OlfeR (Apr 6, 2012)

911_fan said:


> You won't find a cone filter small enough that will fit inside the air box and retain the velocity stack.


Alright thanks. Are there any panel air filters you would recommend? Ive heard that k&n filters are oil dipped and that they can destroy our mafs

Sent from the future


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

That's a load of sh*t. It's the people that cannot follow the directions on how to re-oil their filters that over oil and destroy their MAF. They come from the factory per-oiled from the factory, and are designed to last for more miles than 5 of your cars will ever see. Re-oiling is only necessary of you drive in an extremely harsh environment. The normal 99% of us never ever have a need to touch it once it goes in. 

Although they flow more air, the stock paper filter traps more dirt.


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## MYGTI_MA (May 3, 2010)

love this thread so much as it continues to produce great bits of battle tested information.

in the midst of my own aba t build but its coming along a little slower than one would have hoped due to a lack of time and direction. :thumbdown:


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## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

MYGTI_MA said:


> love this thread so much as it continues to produce great bits of battle tested information.
> 
> in the midst of my own aba t build but its coming along a little slower than one would have hoped due to a lack of time and direction. :thumbdown:


I'm right there with you :thumbup:...Ordered My valve train yesterday and in touch with Clay @ CTS for my "Stage III Kit" 

:beer: for doin WORK !!!


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Although they flow more air, the stock paper filter traps more dirt.


pretty sure the paper filter outflows the K&N


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Yes and no....

Once the paper element gets dirty, flow rate drops. That doesnt take long. and then you have to purchase a new one. 
Where-as on a K&n, flow rate remains the same as it dirties, and ironically, traps more dirt in the process and becomes a better filter.


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

We're not talking about the same type of riding dirty, hah.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

so I think I may order the 276 cam soon!

here's a little inspiration for myself and everyone else building 8v's






his mods as listed:
_1994 Volkswagen GTI 2.0 4cyl ABA
276° race cam
ported + polished head
GIAC chip
naturally aspirated
custom 2.5" full-back exhaust
custom intake
Neuspeed race springs + Koni yellow shocks
bypassed EGR (completely removed)
manual steering rack from pre-93 GLI
no A/C

* tranny had a bad 2nd gear sychro *_

decent pull around 1:40

It definetly sounds good, I'm hoping for my setup to be a bit faster, but this example is def pretty light (94 GTI no ac, manual rack...) but not sure who ported or polished the head? so who knows... if any1 on here knows whose car this is... :beer:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

That looked slow. Lol. Maybe it's just the camera shot.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> That looked slow. Lol. Maybe it's just the camera shot.


yeah I've always debated it... but its one of the only good videos on youtube of someone doing pulls in a mk3 with a 276 cam.

In that video his 0-60 appears to be around 7 seconds, so its probably accurate. tbh


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

also its obd1 GIAC chip, obd2 BFI stg2 chip makes much better numbers/power...


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## jhad03 (Sep 28, 2012)

911_fan said:


> I would also replace the stock accordion intake tube for a smooth pipe for better air flow.



you can get an Ebay intake made for iirc the acura integra, it has a metal tube, bent just right, with 2 ports for the vacuum lines to fpr and the other one.. then you just cut your rubber elbow to the right length for your intake set up. i cut mine short so i could just run a breather or catch can for my pcv. anyways, i run a cone to maf to metal intake tube to small rubber elbow section to deramped tb.

i think it works good for me.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> The stock air box has two very major advantages over a 'cone'.
> 
> 1- the integrated velocity stack. Absolutely essential to straighten air past the MAF sensor. #1 mistake when installing a cone without keeping the stack attached to the MAF. People have complained about dead spots in certain rpm ranges, this is why.
> 
> ...


Thanks for your input, Travis. Your new Avatar confused the hell out of me though. I was trying to find your posts for like 5 minutes before I figured it out, lmao. 

So, you think taking the lower airbox's elbow going to the fenderwell should be replaced with ducting to the bumper vents? I've done this once. It did work well. I'd imagine air coming from the lower bumper vents is being driven through, providing more power than the crappy elbow sucking in air through a 2" tube in the fenderwell.. 



vacuumnoise said:


> yeah I've always debated it... but its one of the only good videos on youtube of someone doing pulls in a mk3 with a 276 cam.
> 
> In that video his 0-60 appears to be around 7 seconds, so its probably accurate. tbh


A 0-60 in a stock manifold 276* is generally around 7.5 seconds, IME. The SRI helps a ton.. You can get it down to the mid 6's, like I did with mine before I went FI. I can try to find some pulls I made with my old N/A set up. With my 135whp dyno I was doing 0-60 in low to mid 6's depending on my launch. Pulled on my friend's B16a Si plenty of times (on the track, I don't condone or participate in street-races!)



vacuumnoise said:


> also its obd1 GIAC chip, obd2 BFI stg2 chip makes much better numbers/power...


GIAC makes a great chip. The BFI chip won't make that much more power. Maybe 2 or 3whp more, if that, on a well built engine. I doubt that if you had a car set up like:

260 cam,
intake, 
exhaust,
TT chip
and changed to a BFI chip.

You wouldn't be able to feel the difference. It's all placebo effect. They say you need a 10% increase in power to feel it. TT's chips are good for what they are. TT makes the best cams out there for the ABA in my humble opinion. The only one I dislike is the Eco-grind (meant for mk1's) and the 266* AKA 270*, because it's sort of.. well, the Autotech cam is better.. and the title is misleading IMO.

TT = great company. 
Neuspeed = great company
Autotech = great company
C2 = great company
USRT = great company

..I can go on and on. :laugh:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

certainly wasnt denying the fact that the GIAC chip is a good chip, just the BFI (C2) chip is the most current up to date software... so it has the slight edge (with rev hang issues or not  )


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Hate switching to winter mode.. Always puts a bad feeling in my stomach. 


PS: Bump for the forum's sake.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Hate switching to winter mode.. Always puts a bad feeling in my stomach.
> 
> 
> PS: Bump for the forum's sake.


true my car is just on cup kit, so its not too bad; swap my snow tires over around december tho... makes a huge difference, gonna run all 4 this year, just on the front last time was good but all 4 will b the TITS. :beer:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Winter mode is awesome! Crank up the coils, throw on the snows, and drive I n COMFORT for 5 months! Hahahaha


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> true my car is just on cup kit, so its not too bad; swap my snow tires over around december tho... makes a huge difference, gonna run all 4 this year, just on the front last time was good but all 4 will b the TITS. :beer:


Yeah, I have a cupkit too. My 94' has a FK cupkit. I'm going to use it for the winter, I took my BBS RA's off and put a set of steelies with winter tires on it.. 4x4 status! :laugh:



911_fan said:


> Winter mode is awesome! Crank up the coils, throw on the snows, and drive I n COMFORT for 5 months! Hahahaha


No way jose.. I'm too much of a fool to bother riding in comfort over function. umpkin:

The GT has Koni shocks, my GL has FK's.. no coils for me besides on my A2 but I don't intend on driving that or keeping it much longer. GT is being stored for the winter. I don't like rust, and I intend on keeping the shell as clean as I can.. didn't drive it back from North Carolina for nothing! :banghead:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)




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## Fast VW (Sep 24, 2002)

So without porting the head, would the 276 WLA cam move the power band up to high for the head to breath well? Would there really be a significant gain over the AT270 that I am currently running without having head work done?


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Fast VW said:


> So without porting the head, would the 276 WLA cam move the power band up to high for the head to breath well? Would there really be a significant gain over the AT270 that I am currently running without having head work done?


the wider LSA provides for better low-midrange over the more narrow LSA while still providing a HEALTHY increase up top. The 270 doesnt hold a candle. Ported will just make it even better:beer:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> providing a HEALTHY increase up top. The 270 doesnt hold a candle. Ported will just make it even better:beer:


I'll 2nd this, but I can't say anything about the low and midrange over a v1 276* N/A. Never driven the 114* lobe center 276* without my blower on.

Tons of power from idle onward (duh, 1.4BAR PSI from the S/C near on idle..), when I really drive "spirited", the car pulls from idle to 7200 RPM no problem. It wants to keep going, I'm waiting for my custom C2 chip to arrive with a 8500 RPM rev limit so I can do a bunch of dyno runs to tune my cam gear. 

Driving around town with the 276 114* I can shift at like 2k RPM every gear and it just goes along. I don't go into boost much dding (well, I lied. I _try_ not to go into boost.. lol). The old 276* in my N/A build was rather sluggish til around 3k RPM, had to shift at around atleast 3000 to get anywhere.

Great cam overall. Definitely better than the Autotech 270*, IMO.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> I'll 2nd this, but I can't say anything about the low and midrange over a v1 276* N/A. Never driven the 114* lobe center 276* without my blower on.
> 
> Tons of power from idle onward (duh, 1.4BAR PSI from the S/C near on idle..), when I really drive "spirited", the car pulls from idle to 7200 RPM no problem. It wants to keep going, I'm waiting for my custom C2 chip to arrive with a 8500 RPM rev limit so I can do a bunch of dyno runs to tune my cam gear.
> 
> ...


before you put it away for the winter get some video pulls, at least highway pulls, just wedge the cellphone or camera into the steering wheel, and get some gauge pulls... cuz so far I've just been imagining your insane setup in my mind/dreams... 

Vortex:heart:ic:


----------



## [email protected] (Jul 29, 2008)

If you have the new Jetta S (MK6), take a look here:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5866225-Teaser-2.0L-8v-Jetta-S-APR-Carbonio-Intake-System


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

hey pretty cool NS SC with cooler on it, this guy got in touch with me thru PM when I was looking to buy one... 









thread: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5866260-Custom-Neuspeed-Supercharger-for-ABA-OBDII


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

^
honestly I think its overkill, If I did get NS SC I would just get the smallest pulley I could get 2.4", maybe 2.2".... I think I've seen them. And then just run a water/meth setup, its not that hard to set up, I looked into it. :beer:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> If you have the new Jetta S (MK6), take a look here:
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5866225-Teaser-2.0L-8v-Jetta-S-APR-Carbonio-Intake-System


yeh those gains are good, but expected. 

The Mk6 is too heavy though, so its really not a concern.


----------



## [email protected] (Jul 29, 2008)

vacuumnoise said:


> yeh those gains are good, but expected.
> 
> The Mk6 is too heavy though, so its really not a concern.


How does the stock WHP look compared to what you guys typically see on other platforms? The car was brand new, 87 octane, run on our Dynapack (wheels removed, bolted to the hubs), tiptronic, no mods (other than stock vs APR intake system). All results were SAEJ1349 corrected. Uncorrected was about a 1 HP difference.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> How does the stock WHP look compared to what you guys typically see on other platforms? The car was brand new, 87 octane, run on our Dynapack (wheels removed, bolted to the hubs), tiptronic, no mods (other than stock vs APR intake system). All results were SAEJ1349 corrected. Uncorrected was about a 1 HP difference.


Most MK3 8v's put down ~95 stock, standard trans.

You used an auto, that sort of messes with the #'s.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> How does the stock WHP look compared to what you guys typically see on other platforms? The car was brand new, 87 octane, run on our Dynapack (wheels removed, bolted to the hubs), tiptronic, no mods (other than stock vs APR intake system). All results were SAEJ1349 corrected. Uncorrected was about a 1 HP difference.


I think 5-7whp is good but normal for a correctly done aftermarket intake on the VW 4 cylinder NA engines.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> I think 5-7whp is good but normal for a correctly done aftermarket intake on the VW 4 cylinder NA engines.


5-7whp gain is AMAZING for just a cold air intake on an 8v.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> If you have the new Jetta S (MK6), take a look here:
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5866225-Teaser-2.0L-8v-Jetta-S-APR-Carbonio-Intake-System


interesting....just when i thought the 8v was LONG GONE...

For us older 8v's, intakes really didnt do anything in the way of hp/tq gains. 

wonder what differences there are in the cam, intake mani, exhaust mani and if there would be a benefit to swapping them over...i see they went back to the wasted spark coil design from the early AEG.

And LASTLY, it is amazing APR is touching this engine when they never did in the past:laugh:

It'd be nice to see a turbo kit come out since 300+whp is pretty easy to attain.:thumbup:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> 5-7whp gain is AMAZING for just a cold air intake on an 8v.


eh, I remember in that issue of eurotuner they made 5whp with just a Eurosport? Eurospec? intake...


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

So, taking care of some issues right now (new front brakes, new tie rods w/ flip kit & alignment, and fixing my leaky coolant piece which i affectionaly call the "nexus of the universe" piece; oh and replacing some shifter items :thumbup.

And then it'll be winter, which I think is a good time to boost? due to the cold.

Pretty sure I am going to go with the Kinetic kit just for ease; its a bit pricey but at least I can do it in a day, and be back at work the next day. 
That turbo is a T3/T4 50 trim. 

Going to keep my 260 cam in, as I just don't think its worth it for the $ to swap for the 268/260 and anything else would require springs etc. and thats more $$$, piled on...

I don't really want to run the headspacer, as I'd like to keep whatever power I have below boost where it is now...

I can definetly figure out an intercooler setup on my own, and debating water/meth injection too... Was just wondering at what point will I need ARP head stud kit (at what point of boost) ?


anyhow those are my current thoughts umpkin:


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

First rule of fixing your car: however long you think it will take, multiply it by Pi. 

In other words, start tear-down on a Friday afternoon so you have Saturday to figure out you need to hit your local auto parts store (while its still open for the weekend) 3-4 times to replace **** you broke off. Let Sunday be your shake-down test day. Trust me on this. 

Or....sheared exhaust manifold studs. Lol. Good luck with those.


----------



## jhad03 (Sep 28, 2012)

911_fan said:


> Or....sheared exhaust manifold studs. Lol. Good luck with those.



that always seems to be the case.. when me and my friend did my header a few weeks ago, we ended up doing a head swap by the time we were done..


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> First rule of fixing your car: however long you think it will take, multiply it by Pi.
> 
> In other words, start tear-down on a Friday afternoon so you have Saturday to figure out you need to hit your local auto parts store (while its still open for the weekend) 3-4 times to replace **** you broke off. Let Sunday be your shake-down test day. Trust me on this.
> 
> Or....sheared exhaust manifold studs. Lol. Good luck with those.


when we did the OBX header, one stud broke 

still riding it via the "7 stud mod" but yeah I know to get new ex. mani studs when i do the turbo... JUST IN CASE!

but generally I've been alright when doing work (mainly cuz my brother is a mechanic and he always figures out a way to make it "work"...)


----------



## Fast VW (Sep 24, 2002)

Ok I spent about 20 min on the phone with Collin from TT talking about the 276 WLC cam. Basically he said comparing it to the AT270 here is what I would see:

- Slightly rougher idle but not bad
- "Softer" while not in boost
- "Noticeable power" increase from the time I start making 4 or 5 psi or 3500rpm and up

For me 4 psi is instant anywhere from 2000rpm - 3000rpm above that the "instant" boost is higher.

I am just about to pull the trigger and order.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> First rule of fixing your car: however long you think it will take, multiply it by Pi.
> 
> In other words, start tear-down on a Friday afternoon so you have Saturday to figure out you need to hit your local auto parts store (while its still open for the weekend) 3-4 times to replace **** you broke off. Let Sunday be your shake-down test day. Trust me on this.
> 
> Or....sheared exhaust manifold studs. Lol. Good luck with those.


This.

I took aside a week-end to install my BBM kit. I figured it'd only take like a day or a day and a half max, because the car is clean and all the bolts come off easily.. 

Oh, was I wrong. It ended up taking ~3 weeks, (a few hours a day) but I had to wait 1 week for V2 276* to come.. So around 2 weeks to install a S/C kit.. that's a direct bolt on..  But, boy, was it worth it! 

The Stage 1 Kinetic kit is definitely worth the money. You could run it how it comes without an intercooler for a while with no real problems on low boost.. The 260* cam will help you out with keeping nice low-end before the boost kicks in.

You could find a cheap eBay intercooler instead of just buying the stage 2 kit and save money. Installing an intercooler is really easy.. The plumbing in the ABA engine bay is really really simple. You may need to cut your bumper up some, though.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> The Stage 1 Kinetic kit is definitely worth the money. You could run it how it comes without an intercooler for a while with no real problems on low boost.. The 260* cam will help you out with keeping nice low-end before the boost kicks in.
> 
> You could find a cheap eBay intercooler instead of just buying the stage 2 kit and save money. Installing an intercooler is really easy.. The plumbing in the ABA engine bay is really really simple. You may need to cut your bumper up some, though.


thats exactly what I was thinking Hurt... 

and at only 6psi I imagine I'd have the same power as a VR with bolt ons, so its like a VR swap kinda. lol


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> thats exactly what I was thinking Hurt...
> 
> and at only 6psi I imagine I'd have the same power as a VR with bolt ons, so its like a VR swap kinda. lol


Most i/h/e/chip VR6's put down 170 or so, I have seen a VR with exhaust put down ~155.. So you'd probably keep up with VR6's due to the weight differences. If it's a 2 door GTI, those weigh around the same as a 4 door 2.0, so.. yeah. It'd be close.


----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

You guys kill me with the vr comparisons.

Go run a number.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Most i/h/e/chip VR6's put down 170 or so, I have seen a VR with exhaust put down ~155.. So you'd probably keep up with VR6's due to the weight differences. If it's a 2 door GTI, those weigh around the same as a 4 door 2.0, so.. yeah. It'd be close.


_ 
yeah, I think I'm being realistic about the numbers..._ *but I have other issues currently *

Need to get rid of my CEL to pass inspection, realized even with the stock chip in, I don't have my secondary o2 sensor hooked up anymore (OBX header), and I cant find where I put the o2 sensor (due to moving) so I still have the CEL... *BUT*

I _finally_ had time to install the updated BFI stg2 chip and now all my rev hang issues are gone! and I hooked up my IAT again... :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

As far as I can remember the BFI stg2 doesn't need the secondary o2 sensor?

my 8v brothers plz help, I need to get this car passed this month as my job depends on it

advice?


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

root beer said:


> You guys kill me with the vr comparisons.
> 
> Go run a number.


I think it's a very honest guess Root, and of course 8v guys compare it to its big brother, the VR 

from my notes:
_VDUBIN
 1995 golf 2.0T
 Milage 190,000
 Dyno/Shop Dynojet @ trackMasters - Huntsville, AL
Engine modification details :
Airesearch T03 .50 trim
 Stock Cam 
TT Cam Gear (Set +3) 
Stock Chip 
Green Top injectors 42#
 2.5" Straight Pipe Exhaust 
No Cat 
Disabled EGR
 Innovate LM-1 Wideband Sensor
 No Intercooler 
8 PSI of boost
HP/TQ numbers  163.40 hp / 187.85 tq_


----------



## ABATurbo (Feb 11, 2010)

vacuumnoise said:


> I think it's a very honest guess Root, and of course 8v guys compare it to its big brother, the VR
> 
> from my notes:
> _VDUBIN
> ...


Damn 190K miles?!  Did you refresh anything before you added boost? I'm scared to turbo my 2.0 as it is and it only has 130K miles. :vampire:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

slippinclutch said:


> Damn 190K miles?!  Did you refresh anything before you added boost? I'm scared to turbo my 2.0 as it is and it only has 130K miles. :vampire:


you'll have to ask *VDUBIN* as thats not my car... 

any advice on my o2/CEL situation???


----------



## ABATurbo (Feb 11, 2010)

vacuumnoise said:


> you'll have to ask *VDUBIN* as thats not my car...
> 
> any advice on my o2/CEL situation???


Did you read the code? Is it possible it is something besides your O2? I've been running catless on my 2.0 with the BFI chip and no CEL for a while. VAGCOM shows that it is "ready" too.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

slippinclutch said:


> Did you read the code? Is it possible it is something besides your O2? I've been running catless on my 2.0 with the BFI chip and no CEL for a while. VAGCOM shows that it is "ready" too.


hm not sure, gotta borrow a scan tool or if someone is in North NJ, hook me up with some VAGCOM... I'll bring some :beer::beer:


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> any advice on my o2/CEL situation???


Just clear the code.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

slippinclutch said:


> Damn 190K miles?!  Did you refresh anything before you added boost? I'm scared to turbo my 2.0 as it is and it only has 130K miles. :vampire:


its not really a big deal, it's 8psi on a small turbo. So long as the tune is correct, things will keep on pushin.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

So, I found this: **Not my car**




Only 220whp.. on only 0.9 BAR of boost!

Now, I have a worked head, a 3" exhaust, and I'm running 1.3-1.5 BAR of boost. I have C2's stage II tune, and the WLC 276.. My goal of 250whp should be seen easily.. Maybe even 275!


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

That blower whine is ridiculously annoying.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> So, I found this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

It's a 12 sec car when it runs a 12 sec quarter. Period. 

Not when it should make the same as this other car with the same mods so that it should have the same horsepower that raced a lighter vr6 and only got beat by a little bit so its faster than a full weight vr6!!!!!!!


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

root beer said:


> It's a 12 sec car when it runs a 12 sec quarter. Period.
> 
> Not when it should make the same as this other car with the same mods so that it should have the same horsepower that raced a lighter vr6 and only got beat by a little bit so its faster than a full weight vr6!!!!!!!


jeez you are sensitive today:what:


----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

I just hate bs bench racing. I feel attached to the thread title, and this thread is just full of it. Sorry.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> That blower whine is ridiculously annoying.


That isn't my car, but for mine, it's not that bad with the hood closed when you're inside the cabin. The exhaust used to drone everything else out until I bought 2 big mufflers, lol.


----------



## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

slippinclutch said:


> Damn 190K miles?!  Did you refresh anything before you added boost? I'm scared to turbo my 2.0 as it is and it only has 130K miles. :vampire:


I've got a Neuspeed S/C on my car with 240,000 miles.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Alingarhs said:


> I've got a Neuspeed S/C on my car with 240,000 miles.



:thumbup:


----------



## ABATurbo (Feb 11, 2010)

Well I guess I'll just do a compression test and maybe throw some new bearings in before boost. :thumbup: :laugh:


----------



## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

My compression was at the wear limit. I think I pulled 115psi out of the cylinders and the limit is 109psi. I just shrugged and said, oh well. Never gave me a problem yet.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

So I was just cruising around the interwebs today and I found this:
http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_133_8&products_id=327

bolt-on-ITB's for a crossflow 8v! 

I'm considering doing another ground up build like I did with my old MK2. I miss having a dedicated track car. I can easily convert my MK1 coupe to an 8v and build that up, the shell has no rot at all.. I'm thinking I can make a good 200whp or so with the ITB's and a big cam, built head, and MS3. Problem is business this time of the year is booming. I have work pretty much every day, if only for a few hours, and weekly meetings. If I buy all the parts at once, I'm sure I could find the time to actually put everything together.. albeit piece by piece, hour by hour.. I'd also have to convince my wife to let me keep tinkering with old VW's. She has been pretty.. angry.. lately. She is adamant that I sell atleast 2 of my old cars. If I did, it would be the 94' and the 89'.. She thinks having "old, beat up cars" in the driveway is "an eyesore and disrespectful to our neighbors." Here's to hoping... :beer:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> So I was just cruising around the interwebs today and I found this:
> http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_133_8&products_id=327
> 
> bolt-on-ITB's for a crossflow 8v!
> ...


 haha i was JUST in the process of making the thread about those


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

pretty sick

* on a side note, I installed my updated BFI (C2) stg2 chip, no more rev hang, and cleared my codes and no more CEL's :thumbup::thumbup:
_
just in time for the hurricane!_ umpkin:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

what does a collapsed lifter sound like?


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> what does a collapsed lifter sound like?


 a louder than normal ticking.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> a louder than normal ticking.


****.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

I guess I will be swapping in a 276 cam this month! Expect a call from me Quintin!


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> I guess I will be swapping in a 276 cam this month! Expect a call from me Quintin!


best to PM me, i'm on deployment currently...


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> best to PM me, i'm on deployment currently...


Come back safe, yeah? :beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

What damage you get Colm? I got nuthin out here in Ayer. Didn't even lose power.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> What damage you get Colm? I got nuthin out here in Ayer. Didn't even lose power.


Nothing too bad, thankfully!
We lost power for an undetermined amount of time during the night (clocks were all at 0:00 when we woke up). My wife's garden got pretty much wiped out, but winter is coming anyway. A few branches came down off of trees, but really nothing bad.. Glad all the leaves finally came down to be honest.. raking three times a season sucks. :laugh: A trashcan blew down the street 2 houses down, though, and landed right next to my wife's GTI.. :what:


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

X2 on finally raking.

Just think, this time last year, we were buried in a foot of snow.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> X2 on finally raking.
> 
> Just think, this time last year, we were buried in a foot of snow.


I don't really mind raking anymore because I don't use a rake, I use this thing:










I just blow the leaves against the fence, suck them all up, and bag them (1 shredded bag = ~10 regularly raked bags!). 

I hate the snow. Last year was crazy. Snow in October? No thanks. 

Last year, we had to cancel Halloween! It was insane.. I would have angry if I were still a kid. :laugh:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Come back safe, yeah? :beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:


oh yeah, and i'll take everyone of those beers straight to the face when i do!


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

ticking noise is gone, maybe stuck lifter?? who knows...

anyhow, I'm going turbo


----------



## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

vacuumnoise said:


> ticking noise is gone, maybe stuck lifter?? who knows...
> 
> GOOD deal :thumbup: !!! But keep an eye/ear open
> 
> anyhow, I'm going turbo


Excellent Choice :thumbup: :heart: 8VT 's...


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> ticking noise is gone, maybe stuck lifter?? who knows...
> 
> anyhow, I'm going turbo


bout time! lets do this!


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> ticking noise is gone, maybe stuck lifter?? who knows...
> 
> anyhow, I'm going turbo


Good choice. So am I. :beer:
Since I sold my A2 VR, I have a decent amount of money to put into my "dd".

I ordered a Kinetic kit for my 94'. I'm going to convert it to OBD2 software, and run the stage III kinetic kit!
Should be interesting to see how it stacks up against my GT. 

It will be running my SRI. I really don't know what to do as far as the cylinder head.. stock head has low miles (71k!). But, I have a mildly ported head with ~90k miles sitting in my old Corrado 2.0 swap car in storage.. It's got a 3 angle valve job, port matching for the SRI, and TT's 41mm-34mm "hi flow" valve kit, HD springs, etc. I will be putting in my 268/260 cam, or even a LSA 276* incase I decide to use a bigger turbo down the road, so that's most likely 99% going on the 94'. 

Kinetic says they dyno'd the Stage III kit at 250whp at mild boost levels with 94 octane gas and 2.5" exhaust with a STOCK engine, except for the headspacer. I'll have to change the transmission, AGAIN, if I turbo it. The 2y's ratios are too close.. I'll probably go with my poor old Corrado's 02A, possibly with a VR6 F/D (if it's possible) for longer gears. 110 in 3rd? Yes please.

It's either this or sell the 94', and build a G60-T Corrado. 

The whole "SELL EVERY CAR OLDER THAN 2012!!" came from my wife nagging me to get a "new" car. In reality, this means she'll give me her MK6 GTI, while she gets a new Passat 2.0T or 3.6.. Ah, wives.. 

Opinions? Thoughts? Suggestions? 
:wave:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Good choice. So am I. :beer:
> Since I sold my A2 VR, I have a decent amount of money to put into my "dd".
> 
> I ordered a Kinetic kit for my 94'. I'm going to convert it to OBD2 software, and run the stage III kinetic kit!
> ...


 just the 3.38FD (or do you mean the 3.64?) and the o2a will be a too tall unless you're talkin bout the G60 (CAW code) trans which is very similar to my last setup ...i went from dead hooking in 3rd with mk4 2.0 gear set (1.038) to ROASTING tires with the shorter mk4 VR third 1.474 i think...it was alot faster when i got better tires to deal with it. damn that car was fun! i'll try and find my last gear setup that was pretty nice for a turbo that saw 20psi at 4k and raped face.:beer:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

found it!

3.38R&P | [email protected] w/205.55.16 tires

3.778	|	40.588
2.118	|	72.399
1.474	|	104.030
1.038	|	147.727
0.837	|	183.202


That was my finally gearset and let me reiterate...that 3rd gear was A BLAST!


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Hurt said:


> Opinions? Thoughts? Suggestions?
> :wave:


Sell the wife.


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

I did a custom "mutt box" for my 20/20T Corrado

3.38 R&P 
3.30 1st
1.94 2nd
1.345 3rd
.97 4th
.80 5th

The 3.38 was from a MK4 VR6, 1st and 2nd MK4 1.8T and 3rd-5th G60 Corrado all in an 02J case with 100mm flanges . Running 195/50R15 tires the car would haul A$$! and acceleration in 2nd 3rd and 4th was impressive indeed. But the best part was the 35mpg at 85mph.

Once I get the turbo hung on the current rado (I set an end of this month deadline) I'll put the mutt box in too.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> bout time! lets do this!


Quintin you sell Kinetic kits? where can i get the best deal on a kit?


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> found it!
> 
> 3.38R&P | [email protected] w/205.55.16 tires
> 
> ...



That's similar transmission gearing that the Corrado G60 AYL and AYK code 02a has, isn't it? Is the R/P from a MK3 VR6 02a (3.39) going to work in this transmission? 





911_fan said:


> Sell the wife.












:laugh:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

lol


----------



## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

Hurt, on you're wife's Car with the Neuspeed S/C, did you ever run the Neuspeed chip?
Everytime I floor it above 3.5k, I get a gas smell entering the car.
I know the chip runs rich, but my question is, does the C2 tune ever give off a gassy smell?


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> Quintin you sell Kinetic kits? where can i get the best deal on a kit?


 Yes...which kit you looking for?




Hurt said:


> That's similar transmission gearing that the Corrado G60 AYL and AYK code 02a has, isn't it? Is the R/P from a MK3 VR6 02a (3.39) going to work in this transmission?


closer to the CAW code. The R/P is swappable between all o2a/o2j but a lil bit of a PITA. Since u have to take apart the input shaft as well. Nothing a press, a bearing splitter, and some heat wont solve. Be advised if you do decide to take it all apart there is a circlip on the input shaft between the 3rd and 4th cog if i remember correctly. With that said i think o2a/o2j are the easiest transmission in the world to take apart and do work on!


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Alingarhs said:


> Hurt, on you're wife's Car with the Neuspeed S/C, did you ever run the Neuspeed chip?
> Everytime I floor it above 3.5k, I get a gas smell entering the car.
> I know the chip runs rich, but my question is, does the C2 tune ever give off a gassy smell?


My wife's MK4 Neuspeed S/C kit required sending the ECU out to Neuspeed to be reflashed. I don't smell any gas while driving it. It's an auto. That could change things around, but I doubt it.. Have you checked your o2 sensors lately? Any CEL's? Is your CAT working? Lots of stuff can cause a gas-smell.. even a leaky injector! With my C2 tune in my 98' S/C, I never smell gas. All I smell is burning tires on occasion. umpkin:



[email protected] said:


> closer to the CAW code. The R/P is swappable between all o2a/o2j but a lil bit of a PITA. Since u have to take apart the input shaft as well. Nothing a press, a bearing splitter, and some heat wont solve. Be advised if you do decide to take it all apart there is a circlip on the input shaft between the 3rd and 4th cog if i remember correctly. With that said i think o2a/o2j are the easiest transmission in the world to take apart and do work on!


Okay, good.. Sounds like I will be using the G60 trans with a VR6 R/P for my turbo build then, along with a mildly done up head, a WLCA 276* cam, and my SRI.

You have experience with big turbo 8v's.. Will I be okay with going from my Stage III BBM kit to a stock stage III Kinetic kit with the T3/4 turbo, or will I miss the S/C?

They have options in turbo size, going all the way up to a GT3076! This car will have to be daily driver-able, I want to be able to control the boost with an electronic boost controller (lower it for daily driving, up it for spirited driving) Now, what turbo do you think I should go with? There's like 5 options here:

http://www.ctsturbo.com/cart/products/KINETIC_STAGE_3_MK3_2L_TURBO_KIT-99-36.html 

I appreciate any help you can give me! :thumbup:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Okay, good.. Sounds like I will be using the G60 trans with a VR6 R/P for my turbo build then, along with a mildly done up head, a WLCA 276* cam, and my SRI.
> 
> You have experience with big turbo 8v's.. Will I be okay with going from my Stage III BBM kit to a stock stage III Kinetic kit with the T3/4 turbo, or will I miss the S/C?
> 
> ...


yes you will miss the insta-boost feel like i did when i switched from the td04...but even with the laggy feeling you are still making a good deal amount of torque by 3500~4000rpm to get you movin and once you hit full boost on the top end...sweeet mother of g-d!

What power level are you looking for and what's your budget? PM Me.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Yes...which kit you looking for?


stage 1 just to start me off for the winter, how much shipped?


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> The R/P is swappable between all o2a/o2j but a lil bit of a PITA.


Actually you have to be careful with R&P swaps between 02A and 02J transmissions. The later 02Js run a bigger ring and pinion than the early ones and 02As. Even the Ring and pinion bolts are different. What I had to do for the "mutt box" was use a late design 02J case and diff to match the R&P. But I was still able to use my 02A shifter assy with it though you have to match the lower shifter bearing/carrier to the shifter as well


----------



## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

My CEL isnt on, as far as I know the cats working right. No odd smells or loss of power other than the gas smell.
How would I go about testing my injectors for leaks?
But i suppose if my O2 sensor(s) were going bad they dont necessarly have to throw a code at first.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Prof315 said:


> Actually you have to be careful with R&P swaps between 02A and 02J transmissions. The later 02Js run a bigger ring and pinion than the early ones and 02As. Even the Ring and pinion bolts are different. What I had to do for the "mutt box" was use a late design 02J case and diff to match the R&P. But I was still able to use my 02A shifter assy with it though you have to match the lower shifter bearing/carrier to the shifter as well


oh yea yea yeaaa....i remember hearing that. The '04 and up o2j's right?


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> http://www.ctsturbo.com/cart/products/KINETIC_STAGE_3_MK3_2L_TURBO_KIT-99-36.html
> 
> I appreciate any help you can give me! :thumbup:





vacuumnoise said:


> stage 1 just to start me off for the winter, how much shipped?



Ok gentlemen, bad news and good news.

The bad news first:

I'm hearing that these kits are NLA (no longer available)

The good news:

We at USRT are looking to produce a kit around the same level and another for even higher levels. So if you are willing we might be able to work something out. 

Also if you want to piece together your own kit and have access to a welder or someone who can weld we can help you down that avenue too.

As it stands i've sent an email to CTS/Kinetic to inquire if they are just out of stock or what the deal is. As soon as i know something you will no something.:beer:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Ok gentlemen, bad news and good news.
> 
> The bad news first:
> 
> ...


hmm, something complete with c2 software and less than the $2500+ they were asking for would be great! :thumbup:


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> oh yea yea yeaaa....i remember hearing that. The '04 and up o2j's right?


It's _supposed_ to be '04 and up but I have found the big ring gear in several late production '02 gearboxes so you just have to check.

All that said I agree that the 02A/02Js are easy to work on!


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

what do you guys think if I get this mk4 kit 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/220197462492?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

will the downpipe mate up with my mk3 exhaust?

and then just order the c2 stg2 fuel kit... $700 tho, 
s h i t

Maybe run the stock chip at first...


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> what do you guys think if I get this mk4 kit
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/220197462492?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
> 
> ...


ah schiesse, here it is much cheaper:

http://customcarperformance.com/2010/07/spa-turbo-kit-volkswagen-vw-jetta-golf-beetle-2-0l-aba/

if its still available...


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> Ok gentlemen, bad news and good news.
> 
> The bad news first:
> 
> ...


I ordered mine last night, and it's currently in shipping. 

I'd be interested with more USRT-based MK3 kits. Maybe a "Race" shock and strut/spring set up, like a cupkit, or something.. that'd be cool. My Koni Yellow's and Neuspeed race springs are pretty much the "best" in some tuners eyes, but I think there is room for improvement. I want to go lower, but I want to keep ride quality and traction.. Stuff like that would make USRT even more well known in the MK3 community!


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> I ordered mine last night, and it's currently in shipping.
> 
> I'd be interested with more USRT-based MK3 kits. Maybe a "Race" shock and strut/spring set up, like a cupkit, or something.. that'd be cool. My Koni Yellow's and Neuspeed race springs are pretty much the "best" in some tuners eyes, but I think there is room for improvement. I want to go lower, but I want to keep ride quality and traction.. Stuff like that would make USRT even more well known in the MK3 community!


well thats doable. anyway hopefully they dont hit u with an email saying it's out.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

so i can grab that SPA turbo kit for 1G, and then get the c2 software and 42# injectors etc. for $700; what do u think, should i do it!? 

:vampire:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> so i can grab that SPA turbo kit for 1G, and then get the c2 software and 42# injectors etc. for $700; what do u think, should i do it!?
> 
> :vampire:


uhh....YES. dont flake on me!


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> uhh....YES. dont flake on me!


the kit def looks cheap (rubber couplers, no name turbo, no name wastegate, etc) but not saying it wont WORK. you just have to get all the supporting mods, boost controller, fueling, chip, oil pan, and fabrication from DP to catback.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> uhh....YES. dont flake on me!


need a complete kit, Id rather order from you, cuz I ordered from you in the past, but if Kinetic are being phased out and it will take time for you to build a usrt kit...?


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> need a complete kit, Id rather order from you, cuz I ordered from you in the past, but if Kinetic are being phased out and it will take time for you to build a usrt kit...?


 with the EXCEPTION of the piping we can get everything else. If i was stateside i'd make the piping but i'm not 100% on our position with a current fabricator so i need to get with scott on this. you could be our pioneer kit


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## ABATurbo (Feb 11, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> with the EXCEPTION of the piping we can get everything else. If i was stateside i'd make the piping but i'm not 100% on our position with a current fabricator so i need to get with scott on this. you could be our pioneer kit


I'm also looking to buy an ABA turbo kit. Clay told me that the manifolds were out of stock, but maybe he just doesn't want to tell me they are getting rid of the kit? I'd love to see what USRT has to offer.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> with the EXCEPTION of the piping we can get everything else. If i was stateside i'd make the piping but i'm not 100% on our position with a current fabricator so i need to get with scott on this. you could be our pioneer kit


well If I run no intercooler at first, the piping wont be so bad... give me a price, take it to PM if you want

:beer:


----------



## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> well If I run no intercooler at first, the piping wont be so bad... give me a price, take it to PM if you want
> 
> :beer:


Sorry im late into this, but is this for a mk3 or mk4 2.0? 

Sent from my VS840 4G using Tapatalk 2


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

02vwgolf said:


> Sorry im late into this, but is this for a mk3 or mk4 2.0?
> 
> Sent from my VS840 4G using Tapatalk 2


Mk3



Seriously what about the Spa Turbo kit, they are right in Rockaway NJ, and its only a grand.... I might do it... 

here it is: 










http://customcarperformance.com/2010/07/spa-turbo-kit-volkswagen-vw-jetta-golf-beetle-2-0l-aba/


----------



## ABATurbo (Feb 11, 2010)

vacuumnoise said:


> Mk3
> 
> 
> 
> ...


This kit seems very incomplete compared to the kinetic kit. I'm sure that as you go to install it, you will find all sorts of loose ends. Tuning would be the biggest problem without getting a custom chip made or going standalone


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

slippinclutch said:


> This kit seems very incomplete compared to the kinetic kit. I'm sure that as you go to install it, you will find all sorts of loose ends. Tuning would be the biggest problem without getting a custom chip made or going standalone


at 6psi I could run the stock chip, but i would just get the c2 chip kit with the 42# injectors


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

its also about $1500 less than the Kinetic kit... just saying...


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

if you click the link you see it comes with a lot, except software or an intercooler... 
_
"• SPA Turbo T3 turbocharger
• SPA Turbo exhaust manifold
• SPA Turbo 36mm external wastegate
• SPA Turbo blow off valve
• SPA Turbo adjustable fuel pressure regulator
• Turbo discharge pipe
• Turbo down pipe + oil sensor bung
• Mechanical boost gauge
• Gauge hardware
• Crank acse turbo oil drain
• Down pipe stud
• EPDM elbow hose
• EPDM flexible hose
• Brass fitting 1/8 NPT x 1/4 SAE – straight
• Stainless steel braided hose (oil feed to turbocharger)
• Turbo oil return flange + gasket
• Oil inlet flange + gasket
• 2 1/2″ hose clamp
• 5/8″ hose clamp
• Fuel clamp
• M10 hex nuts
• Turbocharger clamps
• Gauge mounting cup
• Brass fitting 1/4″ hose straight
• Hexagon socket head screw
• Copper nuts
• Manifold studs
• Brass fitting 1/8 NPT x 1/4″ SAE 90 degrees
• Adjustable fuel pressure regulator mount
• Wastegate support bracket
• Wastegate braided stainless steel hose
• Engine mount
• Carbon iron reducer
• Air filter
• Turbocharger oil drain hose"_


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## ABATurbo (Feb 11, 2010)

Double post.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

slippinclutch said:


> Double post.


looks like a single post to me. 

I think I'll order this SPA kit and run this http://www.ngpracing.com/store/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=4199

thoughts?


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## [email protected]SRT (Oct 6, 2009)

a better breakdown of what you get with some notes :laugh:


TURBO ESSENTIALS:
• SPA Turbo T3 turbocharger
• SPA Turbo exhaust manifold
• SPA Turbo 36mm external wastegate
• SPA Turbo blow off valve
• SPA Turbo adjustable fuel pressure regulator(DO NOT NEED)
• Turbo discharge pipe
• Turbo down pipe 
• Mechanical boost gauge
• Crank acse turbo oil drain (UMMM?)
• EPDM elbow hose
• EPDM flexible hose

• Wastegate braided stainless steel hose
• Engine mount
• Carbon iron reducer (WTF IS THIS!?)
• Air filter
• Turbocharger oil drain hose

• Stainless steel braided hose (oil feed to turbocharger)


HARDWARE: 
• Brass fitting 1/8 NPT x 1/4 SAE – straight
• Turbo oil return flange + gasket
• Oil inlet flange + gasket
• 2 1/2″ hose clamp
• 5/8″ hose clamp
• Fuel clamp
• M10 hex nuts
• Turbocharger clamps
• Gauge mounting cup
• Brass fitting 1/4″ hose straight
• Hexagon socket head screw
• Copper nuts
• Manifold studs
• Brass fitting 1/8 NPT x 1/4″ SAE 90 degrees
• Adjustable fuel pressure regulator mount
• Wastegate support bracket
• Oil Sensor Bung
• Gauge hardware
• Down pipe stud


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> a better breakdown of what you get with some notes :laugh:
> 
> 
> TURBO ESSENTIALS:
> ...


i agree, but its not an Ebay turbo kit, and its usually more money, these guys are just getting rid of this package... SPA Turbo stuff, is brazilian VW parts... 

if someone can offer me a more legit kit for $1350, plz let me know....

:beer:


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## VWDUBLUVIN (Apr 3, 2011)

Saving this!!! 

Sent from my SGH-T959V using Tapatalk


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> i agree, but its not an Ebay turbo kit, and its usually more money, these guys are just getting rid of this package... SPA Turbo stuff, is brazilian VW parts...
> 
> if someone can offer me a more legit kit for $1350, plz let me know....
> 
> :beer:


until they started going into turbo production they were using those same off-brand "ebay" turbos. What u see there is one of them. I even installed one of their turbos i got for a steal brand new after my first Holset took a sht due to negligence on my part and it failed in under 600miles. I got another Holset and never looked back.

Can a "more legit" kit be offered for that price? No. Gotta pay for quality. Even keeping it as simple as possible a kit is right around $2,200 w/c2 chip and maf housing so far with what I put togther.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

with that said no reason this kit will not get you going. When you're ready u can get a QUALITY turbo and wastegate and not really have to worry about anything else. U could also get a w/m kit when u do upgrade if you dont want to go the fabrication for a IC route. :beer:


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

also I can just run an FMU temporarily, I really don't think the kit seems so bad. the price is cheap; it comes wtih DP, all the fittings, theres a few "stupid" parts sure but overall I dont think its like a chinese turbo ebay kit. T3 is real simple, just oil lines I have to run... 

how about I pick it up, run it with an FMU, and dyno it and hope for at least 160whp... lol

its only $1100 right there... who knows maybe it'll make more.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> with that said no reason this kit will not get you going. When you're ready u can get a QUALITY turbo and wastegate and not really have to worry about anything else. U could also get a w/m kit when u do upgrade if you dont want to go the fabrication for a IC route. :beer:


agree.

Do you think its a cheap turbo? I mean SPA is pretty descent parts I thought, I just think this is like leftover stock...


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> until they started going into turbo production they were using those same off-brand "ebay" turbos. What u see there is one of them. I even installed one of their turbos i got for a steal brand new after my first Holset took a sht due to negligence on my part and it failed in under 600miles. I got another Holset and never looked back.
> 
> Can a "more legit" kit be offered for that price? No. Gotta pay for quality. Even keeping it as simple as possible a kit is right around $2,200 w/c2 chip and maf housing so far with what I put togther.


seriously only 600 miles... f u c k. 

Same SPA turbo kit???


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

do you think ti failed due to boost or just becuz its a junk turbo or what?


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## ABATurbo (Feb 11, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> until they started going into turbo production they were using those same off-brand "ebay" turbos. What u see there is one of them. I even installed one of their turbos i got for a steal brand new after my first Holset took a sht due to negligence on my part and it failed in under 600miles. I got another Holset and never looked back.
> 
> Can a "more legit" kit be offered for that price? No. Gotta pay for quality. Even keeping it as simple as possible a kit is right around $2,200 w/c2 chip and maf housing so far with what I put togther.


Is this theoretical kit as complete as the kinetic kit?


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Even keeping it as simple as possible a kit is right around $2,200 w/c2 chip and maf housing so far with what I put togther.


what turbo are you using in this "theoretical kit" 

this includes DP?


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> also I can just run an FMU temporarily, I really don't think the kit seems so bad. the price is cheap; it comes wtih DP, all the fittings, theres a few "stupid" parts sure but overall I dont think its like a chinese turbo ebay kit. T3 is real simple, just oil lines I have to run...
> 
> how about I pick it up, run it with an FMU, and dyno it and hope for at least 160whp... lol
> 
> its only $1100 right there... who knows maybe it'll make more.


your injectors are not meant for the amount of pressure a FMU will produce. Risk of failure so be advised.



vacuumnoise said:


> agree.
> 
> Do you think its a cheap turbo? I mean SPA is pretty descent parts I thought, I just think this is like leftover stock...





vacuumnoise said:


> seriously only 600 miles... f u c k.
> 
> Same SPA turbo kit???


 No, a bigger turbo offering by them. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4966866-**SPA-Turbo**-(A-little-insight)


vacuumnoise said:


> do you think ti failed due to boost or just becuz its a junk turbo or what?


 dunno it was a cracked turbine wheel failure. it was my first 25psi run too as i was making sure it was ok with my previous tune i modified (Maestro 7 :beer)


slippinclutch said:


> Is this theoretical kit as complete as the kinetic kit?


Haven't factored in piping yet. Would need a car to design one around and then the price would be worked between Scott and our fabricator. 



vacuumnoise said:


> what turbo are you using in this "theoretical kit"?


 One of the smaller Precision lines around 54mm compressor (my Holset was 54mm). There are smaller, down to 48mm, that would make a really torque street car ala GT28rs like with power taping out around 300whp. Largest one i'd plan to offer on the kit would be a 62mm...cause u can never have enough


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## MYGTI_MA (May 3, 2010)

gentlemen, good morning!

I am currently building a abaT setup but running into the issue that the 020 (DFQ) will likely be the downfall in the build. With that being said I had looked at tearing one apart and doing the arp diff bolts and while in there adding a taller 5th gear. But from doing some research I am seeing that that still may not be the best way to go. Now I would love to go 02m but my budget for this build just got very tight so that is simply out of the question. However I have heard that both the o2a and o2j are possible routes. My question is based on gearing and durability and complexity of install which is my better move to go with as non of my research was able to give me the best rout and since many who have been posting in here have already built some intense abaT's I figured this might be the best place to ask my question.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

MYGTI_MA said:


> gentlemen, good morning!
> 
> I am currently building a abaT setup but running into the issue that the 020 (DFQ) will likely be the downfall in the build. With that being said I had looked at tearing one apart and doing the arp diff bolts and while in there adding a taller 5th gear. But from doing some research I am seeing that that still may not be the best way to go. Now I would love to go 02m but my budget for this build just got very tight so that is simply out of the question. However I have heard that both the o2a and o2j are possible routes. My question is based on gearing and durability and complexity of install which is my better move to go with as non of my research was able to give me the best rout and since many who have been posting in here have already built some intense abaT's I figured this might be the best place to ask my question.


 swap in the o2a. I BELIEVE The only changes necessary are the axle flanges and you have to modify the clutch cable assembly by stacking washers or something. Its been a long time since i've seen it done so i'm not 100%.


----------



## skateboards and mk2s (May 17, 2006)

I like how the "relatively inexpensive" thread is now all about 2 to 3 k turbo builds.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

skateboards and mk2s said:


> I like how the "relatively inexpensive" thread is now all about 2 to 3 k turbo builds.


haha

people want to go fast.

I think if I could find someone selling a Kinetic stg1 kit, and if they accept AMEX... I'm just going to bite the bullet and drop the $2500.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

skateboards and mk2s said:


> I like how the "relatively inexpensive" thread is now all about 2 to 3 k turbo builds.


My S/C build is over 10k.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> My S/C build is over 10k.


lol


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> lol


If you're going to get that budget Turbo kit, we should see how close you come to my kinetic kit for the added money. 

We should see who makes the most power overall and who spends the least amount of money. 

I got my kit today. 
Installing it tomorrow, and Wednesday, if I can. I started working on the ported cylinder head today, and I put the v2 276* in, along with my adjustable cam gear and a few other odds and ends (AEG lifters, new seals, etc..)

After I bolt the turbo onto the exhaust manifold, I'm pretty much in the clear. I already tore down the 94's motor, the head is off. Headstuds going in tomorrow with the rest of the kit. I'm going to have a friend weld me up a custom test-pipe that will fit my Neuspeed exhaust. Hopefully the 60mm piping will meet flow demands of the (small) turbo. :wave:


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## Fast VW (Sep 24, 2002)

skateboards and mk2s said:


> I like how the "relatively inexpensive" thread is now all about 2 to 3 k turbo builds.


Plus transmission swaps or custom builds.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

skateboards and mk2s said:


> I like how the "relatively inexpensive" thread is now all about 2 to 3 k turbo builds.


 that IS relatively inexpensive! price out cam, int, exh, headwork, and an intake manifold and see where that gets you....pretty damn close to a turbo kit and about 50whp less :laugh:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

[email protected] said:


> price out cam, int, exh, headwork, and an intake manifold and see where that gets you....pretty damn close to a turbo kit and about 50whp less :laugh:


Yep. I spent more than a Kinetic kit on my na build. Lolwasteofmoney


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## MYGTI_MA (May 3, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> swap in the o2a. I BELIEVE The only changes necessary are the axle flanges and you have to modify the clutch cable assembly by stacking washers or something. Its been a long time since i've seen it done so i'm not 100%.



what car makes the best donor?


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> If you're going to get that budget Turbo kit, we should see how close you come to my kinetic kit for the added money.
> 
> We should see who makes the most power overall and who spends the least amount of money.
> 
> ...


I would get the Spa Turbo Kit I really think I could make it work but everyone got me worried that the SPA turbo is just going to blow up, even at 8psi lol


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

also got a message from BFI regarding the Kinetic kit (because they have the best price of $2450)

_Stefan,

Yes, we are still selling the Kinetic ABA turbo kits. 
2-3 weeks is the typical lead time for these kits because many of the components are made to order and are not shelved parts at Kinetic's distribution warehouse (these are not stocked at our facility). 
The last time I spoke with the guys at Kinetic about 2 weeks ago, they told me they were waiting on more turbo manifolds to arrive from production and there was a possibility that would increase the lead time of any orders. Whether or not it would affect your potential order, I'm not sure.
I can confidently say, whatever the case may be, you'll be subject to a lead time regardless who you're purchasing from. But like they say, good things come to those who wait. 
Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll do my best to help.

Pete
BFI_


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

MYGTI_MA said:


> what car makes the best donor?


mk3 2.0, corrado g60


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> also got a message from BFI regarding the Kinetic kit (because they have the best price of $2450)
> 
> _Stefan,
> 
> ...


 Pete is a good guy :thumbup: but yea i had received word from Kinetic last night (east coast time) sayin that same thing so we're on the same page.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MYGTI_MA said:


> what car makes the best donor?


A donor for a 02a transmission? Corrado G60, Passat 16v, MK3 TDI, B4 Passat 2.0 all have 02a's, some with different gear ratios and different F/D's. The best in my opinion would be from a Corrado G60, code ATA, but that's just my opinion.


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## MYGTI_MA (May 3, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> mk3 2.0, corrado g60


mk3 2.0 has a 020..


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

MYGTI_MA said:


> mk3 2.0 has a 020..


dammit you're right...it was the Passat as Hurt posted.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

_pending sale on this SPA turbo kit_

I'm even starting to get nervous. :laugh:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

also any advantage to running one of these in the oil pan...










"Part image Windage tray with built-in rubber oil pan gasket. Original equipment. Fits between engine block and oil pan, reduces oil drag on crankshaft at high RPMs. Has built-in rubber gasket so no additional oil pan gasket is required. This came installed on some '93-94 2.0L engines, fits all later '95-99 2.0L engines as well."


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Hands down, yes! I ran one. Came in handy when doing onramps and off ramps at 60+. No oil light buzzer.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Hands down, yes! I ran one. Came in handy when doing onramps and off ramps at 60+. No oil light buzzer.


nice, bolts/pops right in to the pan when I swap pans right?


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

I had to modify the sump's plastic shield...with a hammer...to get it to fit.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Hands down, yes! I ran one. Came in handy when doing onramps and off ramps at 60+. No oil light buzzer.


Indeed, I ran a Neuspeed oil-baffle in my 160whp build, my 98GT has had one since it was a tiny 270* cam dd, and it had one when I put down 135whp, and it has one now at 250+. They help tremendously during hard cornering. Right now I'm trying to find a "high capacity" oil pan for my 2.0. A couple extra quart capacity, please.. Can't find any though, besides the SCRICK HD oilpan but it doesn't really say if it holds extra oil and I can't find any extra information on it.. 

On a side note.. got my 94's engine together this evening, went to start it up open exhaust manifold (after converting it to OBD2 wiring) and of course, no start. No click. Nothing. Fried OBD2 ecu. Now I'm set back a day..  :banghead:
Plus, UPS messed my shipping order up on my 42DD 4 gauge set up I bought from another Vortex member. (Fuel pressure,Oil Pressure, Oil temp, EGT).. Then, I'll be running an Autometer dual gauge pod (Boost, A/F).. Also considering a direct port dry N2o set up. Maybe even make 2 jets work at once, and the other 2 work at another (different) button, hopefully (in theory) doubling the shot (50 to 100) of nitrous.. Decisions, decisions..
I don't think I'll end up keeping this engine in this MK3 for long. I think it'll end up in my MK1. But, hey, I'm having fun. I work 27 days this month, 14 being out of state, so.. let me have my fun! :laugh: 

If I don't give my Neuspeed stuff to my little cousin, anyone want my old Neuspeed 268* 113*LC cam and a Neuspeed OBD1 ecu? Great cam set up for a OBD1.. Cheap for Vortexmembers, too, if you want to come get it.. and you can have a tour of a shop and a few :beer:'s and some BBQ or something. :vampire:

Oh, and Travis,

Y U MAKE MORE POWER THAN ME WITH 276 CAM?!
I HAVE BIG VALVES AND MORE COMPRESSION!
Y U NO LET ME WIN??

:laugh:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> I. But, hey, I'm having fun. I work 27 days this month, 14 being out of state, so.. let me have my fun! :laugh:


:thumbup:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Oh, and Travis,
> 
> Y U MAKE MORE POWER THAN ME WITH 276 CAM?!
> I HAVE BIG VALVES AND MORE COMPRESSION!
> ...


 Trav's car ran on unicorn piss. also a different dyno.


...or you're just a BI***!!:laugh:


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Head work was key. RSD in Germany know their sh*t.

And my runs were on a REAL dyno.....not on a silly "what do you want your whp to be" dyno jet.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Head work was key. RSD in Germany know their sh*t.
> 
> And my runs were on a REAL dyno.....not on a silly "what do you want your whp to be" dyno jet.


 hey link me to them, gotta find their address. Might drive and visit them when i get back to garrison.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Their stuff was ordered through TMTuning....which has recently closed shop from what I heard.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Their stuff was ordered through TMTuning....which has recently closed shop from what I heard.


sucks i really like TMTuning


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

this might be a stupid question, but i want to buy the C2 software stage 1 for turbo









this is the chip BFI shows, does this go to a different part of the ECU as opposed to the chip I swapped for my NA C2 chip?

I kno the foto might just be a foto of some random chip, but i am just asking do i have to solder this in ???


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

That looks like an OBDI chip. OBDI chips are about 1.5cm square.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> That looks like an OBDI chip. OBDI chips are about 1.5cm square.


o ok, my bad... thanks for quick reply Travis

Right now I'm researching best spark plugs to run for my turbo setup.

and cheap 30# injectors that swap right in...


Let me know if you know the answers to either of these questions!

:beer:


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Ugh...stupid auto correct. I meant that OBDII chips are square and OBDI are rectangular.m


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Hey does anybody have a spare OBD1 ABA head they are willing to part with. I'm ready to start making power with the motor in the new C and that's what I want to start with. They have become scarce here in Florida.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

hey if this turbo thing pans out correctly, I'll be selling my BFI stg2 chip (revised file) for the cheap! 

some inspiration:


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Bad news:
Pretty sure my GT spun a bearing revving to 8500 RPM at 1.5BAR of boost with my new C2 software.. BBM's forged piston/rod set is on it's merry way. This sets me back yet again. 
FML
Good news:
Lots of work done on the 94' today. I got my OBD2 ecu, I got the head bolted on the block, the turbo on the manifold, the oil lines set up, my OBD2 TB on. Tomorrow, mounting up the IC core and making the charge piping work for the SRI, mounting up the exhaust.. pretty much everything. Oh, the gauges got here. They're (6 gauges!) going to be a PITA to install. If anyone good with electrics would be willing to help, swing on by, give me a call, whatever. I'll be at my shop for the next 24 hours, along with a fridge full of RedBull and Moxie and Lager. I have 2 more days off, then I'm off to CA and AZ on business.. Gotta bust my ass. :banghead::banghead::banghead:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Ya'll making me sad...

Y U NO ORDER PARTS FROM ME!


----------



## Alingarhs (Dec 2, 2010)

Hurt said:


> Bad news:
> Pretty sure my GT spun a bearing revving to 8500 RPM at 1.5BAR of boost with my new C2 software.. BBM's forged piston/rod set is on it's merry way. This sets me back yet again.
> FML
> Good news:
> Lots of work done on the 94' today. I got my OBD2 ecu, I got the head bolted on the block, the turbo on the manifold, the oil lines set up, my OBD2 TB on. Tomorrow, mounting up the IC core and making the charge piping work for the SRI, mounting up the exhaust.. pretty much everything. Oh, the gauges got here. They're (6 gauges!) going to be a PITA to install. If anyone good with electrics would be willing to help, swing on by, give me a call, whatever. I'll be at my shop for the next 24 hours, along with a fridge full of RedBull and Moxie and Lager. I have 2 more days off, then I'm off to CA and AZ on business.. Gotta bust my ass. :banghead::banghead::banghead:



What does it sound like? I think I might have spun a cam bearing a couple days ago. The sound is coming from the cam gear area and making a grinding scraping noise. I took the drive belt off and still makes the noise. Not sure what is wrong on my end. By I didnt notice a loss in performance, just a really loud annoying scrap/grind.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Ya'll making me sad...
> 
> Y U NO ORDER PARTS FROM ME!


Quintin, any 30# injectors for my mk3 setup... ?


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Alingarhs said:


> What does it sound like? I think I might have spun a cam bearing a couple days ago. The sound is coming from the cam gear area and making a grinding scraping noise. I took the drive belt off and still makes the noise. Not sure what is wrong on my end. By I didnt notice a loss in performance, just a really loud annoying scrap/grind.


 these motors dont have "cam bearings" the cams ride direction on the journals. pull the cam and inspect.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> Ya'll making me sad...
> 
> Y U NO ORDER PARTS FROM ME!


Hey, I've bought my fair share of SRI's from you guys, along with a few panel filters, your smartshift 020 set up, and more.

Y u no give me discount!?!?!

Just kidding. :vampire:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Bad news:
> Pretty sure my GT spun a bearing revving to 8500 RPM at 1.5BAR of boost with my new C2 software.. BBM's forged piston/rod set is on it's merry way. This sets me back yet again.
> FML
> Good news:
> Lots of work done on the 94' today. I got my OBD2 ecu, I got the head bolted on the block, the turbo on the manifold, the oil lines set up, my OBD2 TB on. Tomorrow, mounting up the IC core and making the charge piping work for the SRI, mounting up the exhaust.. pretty much everything. Oh, the gauges got here. They're (6 gauges!) going to be a PITA to install. If anyone good with electrics would be willing to help, swing on by, give me a call, whatever. I'll be at my shop for the next 24 hours, along with a fridge full of RedBull and Moxie and Lager. I have 2 more days off, then I'm off to CA and AZ on business.. Gotta bust my ass. :banghead::banghead::banghead:


do work :thumbup:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Hey, I've bought my fair share of SRI's from you guys, along with a few panel filters, your smartshift 020 set up, and more.
> 
> Y u no give me discount!?!?!
> 
> Just kidding. :vampire:


lol, yh me2 

8v discount!


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

hey you know the army doesnt pay enough :laugh:

But seriously i try to save ya'll some where i can but just doesnt work out that well when it's a small business. Scott's gotta eat too!:beer:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> hey you know the army doesnt pay enough :laugh:
> 
> But seriously i try to save ya'll some where i can but just doesnt work out that well when it's a small business. Scott's gotta eat too!:beer:


USRT is a good company :thumbup:

Are you guys going to make another SRI for the ABA 8V instead of the LRIM, want to run one of those with my turbo setup!


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> USRT is a good company :thumbup:
> 
> Are you guys going to make another SRI for the ABA 8V instead of the LRIM, want to run one of those with my turbo setup!


 Scott and I talked about this and are considering/looking into doing a cast design to alleviate production cost in turn alleviating consumer cost aka you guys. a $500 intake is alot easier to justify than a $700. :beer:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Scott and I talked about this and are considering/looking into doing a cast design to alleviate production cost in turn alleviating consumer cost aka you guys. a $500 intake is alot easier to justify than a $700. :beer:


yeh a $500 SRI would b great! :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

vacuumnoise said:


> Right now I'm researching best spark plugs to run for my turbo setup.


What every other boosted VW runs, BKR6E or you can take a step colder to BKR7E too.

[email protected] 0.028-0.032


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Jay-Bee said:


> What every other boosted VW runs, BKR6E or you can take a step colder to BKR7E too.
> 
> [email protected] 0.028-0.032


thank you, I thought a tighter gap tho of 0.022-0.025


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> I thought a tighter gap tho of 0.022-0.025


you would be correct. 

For Plugs:
BKR7E (#4644) resistor plug
or
R5671A-7 (#4091) non-resistor plug


I personally ran the 4091's all the time. :thumbup:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> you would be correct.
> 
> For Plugs:
> BKR7E (#4644) resistor plug
> ...


did you notice any whine on the radio with the 4091's? or did you have no radio in the car?


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Colm, what in the hell were you thinkin spinning a VW hydro head to 8500ms??? On boost! 

Seriously, you aren't driving a Honda.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

turbo kit has arrived, won't be able to check it out until 10pm tho cuz im at work 

I want to inspect my goodies!


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

I am going to run the C2 stg1 Turbo chip with 30lb injectors, but I don't want to pay $240 for brand new injectors from them also= for a grand total of $300 + $240= $540 !

can anyone recommend me some good 30# injectors that I can utilize with no resistor box and fit my ABA ???


----------



## ABATurbo (Feb 11, 2010)

vacuumnoise said:


> turbo kit has arrived, won't be able to check it out until 10pm tho cuz im at work
> 
> I want to inspect my goodies!


Did you end up going with the SPA kit?


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

slippinclutch said:


> Did you end up going with the SPA kit?


I did, the price was good, if the turbo blows I'll just upgrade it...


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Colm, what in the hell were you thinkin spinning a VW hydro head to 8500ms??? On boost!
> 
> Seriously, you aren't driving a Honda.



Honestly, I wasn't thinking much of revving it out.. The 276* v2 cam pulls amazing. After I put my new C2 tune in with the 8500RPM limit, I did a bunch of test pulls. The engine would pull till ~7800RPM, 1.5 BAR of boost.. I retarded the camgear to +5, and it pulled to 8 a few runs great! Last run, 1.5 BAR boost, 8k rpm in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and I missed 4th, causing the rev to the cut-off.. Push the clutch in and pull over. wakwakwakwakwkawkawkakwak..
The bottom end was the only thing untouched. The BBM piston kit should ensure reliability, even to high revs on high boost.

After 18 hours in the garage, no sleep, I finally got the 94's turbo all bolted up, G60 trans in with the B&M short shift, yadadadada. Car works.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Honestly, I wasn't thinking much of revving it out.. The 276* v2 cam pulls amazing. After I put my new C2 tune in with the 8500RPM limit, I did a bunch of test pulls. The engine would pull till ~7800RPM, 1.5 BAR of boost.. I retarded the camgear to +5, and it pulled to 8 a few runs great! Last run, 1.5 BAR boost, 8k rpm in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and I missed 4th, causing the rev to the cut-off.. Push the clutch in and pull over. wakwakwakwakwkawkawkakwak..
> The bottom end was the only thing untouched. The BBM piston kit should ensure reliability, even to high revs on high boost.
> 
> After 18 hours in the garage, no sleep, I finally got the 94's turbo all bolted up, G60 trans in with the B&M short shift, yadadadada. Car works.


nice to finally see a pic 
Now get the videos up n running!

ALSO, Someone sell me some 30# Injectors!!! Money in hand!!!


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

How about a solid lifter conversion. Lol.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

4- 30# Injectors ordered (Lucas Red Tops), C2 stg1 chip is* NEXT.*


----------



## OC80 (Aug 9, 2010)

Hurt said:


> After 18 hours in the garage, no sleep, I finally got the 94's turbo all bolted up, G60 trans in with the B&M short shift, yadadadada. Car works.


youre welcome for the help.. (but i probably hindered more than helped..)) :laugh: :heart:


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> How about a solid lifter conversion. Lol.


Maybe someday! I don't know much about solid lifter conversions, Travis.

Right now, I'm all set with the setup I have now (when the BBM pistons are installed, of course). I "may" get a smaller pulley for more boost. 1.5 BAR is.. plenty.. but, hey, if the engine can handle more power.. Why not? :thumbup:

The 94' is fast on 20 PSI. But I "think" the 98' is much faster to 100 and to 125+ (closed road!) I can't get a good comparison because of the 98' sitting in the garage with the front clip removed. No driving that til I get the new pistons in. But.. the 94's SRI+Turbo spool sound is intoxicating! SOOOOO nice.. Spools fast, but.. I miss the low end power. Bah. For me, SC>Turbo as of now.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

pretty sure its a SPA 5250 http://www.brucesspeed.com/spa5250s.aspx

also pissed my AMEX isnt workin as I was attempting to order my C2 chip


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> the 94's SRI+Turbo spool sound is intoxicating! SOOOOO nice.. Spools fast, but.. I miss the low end power. Bah. For me, SC>Turbo as of now.


TOLD YOU ...what turbo was it again?


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt, get some videos up, we NEED to hear it. 

:beer:


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> TOLD YOU ...what turbo was it again?


Just a precision t3/t4e.. I may get a bigger turbo later down the road but I'm not all that concerned about power right now. 

My GT still poops on this turbo GL so I'm not really that concerned. It was just for fun, lol.

The 2.0T will be swapped in my MK1 eventually. I'm not sure when, though. umpkin:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Just a precision t3/t4e.. I may get a bigger turbo later down the road but I'm not all that concerned about power right now.
> 
> My GT still poops on this turbo GL so I'm not really that concerned. It was just for fun, lol.
> 
> The 2.0T will be swapped in my MK1 eventually. I'm not sure when, though. umpkin:


 WHICH t3/t04e?

46, 50, 57, 60trim?


Anyway assuming one of the 1st three listed, its making around 270~300whp and your S/C car is making around the same just more instantaneous torque so yea..it should be faster. Seen it all the time with blown cobras vs turbo ones where the turbos ONLY shine on the very top end. In this case howerver you're nearing the blowers psi/rpm limit where as the turbo is just waking up.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> WHICH t3/t04e?
> 
> 46, 50, 57, 60trim?
> 
> ...


50 trim. 
It's this one:

http://www.ctsturbo.com/cart/products/Precision_Turbo_3231E_aka_T3_T4E_50trim-369-11.html

It's not very fast. Honestly, it's set to 20 PSI, peaking.. bleeds off some til redline. 

I'm buying a Electronic Boost Controller that will let me adjust the boost taper, boost, duty cycle, etc.. So I'm hoping for 20 PSI steady through the revs. 

It's only a G60 5 speed so it's slower than my GT's 6 speed by default. 

My GT has probably ~280whp. When I put the BBM piston/rod set in, it should be able to run even more boost.. 300whp shouldn't be too far out there with a smaller pulley! Keep in mind both these cars are full weight. The GT has the traction advantage due to the suspension set up, and much wider tires. My GL has 195/50/15's, the GT has 225/45/16's, not to mention the GT has much better tires overall. They're fun to compare, but they're 2 completely different machines.


----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Oh, more should be, could be, would be's????? Show us dyno, show us et, or you ain't got ****.

Not only for my own assholish principle, but for making a worthwhile thread...


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> 50 trim.
> It's this one:
> 
> http://www.ctsturbo.com/cart/products/Precision_Turbo_3231E_aka_T3_T4E_50trim-369-11.html
> ...


all very valid points. Whats the suspension setup on the GT anyway?


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> all very valid points. Whats the suspension setup on the GT anyway?



Koni Sport (Yellows) set to 2 F, 5 R, for optimal traction during weight transfer/launches
Rear shocks set to 2nd to lowest perch
Neuspeed Race springs (38mm) with 15mm spring hats in front (I'm told it helps to compress the spring even further, not just for looks)
Neuspeed 25mm front sway bar
Neuspeed 28mm rear sway bar
Neuspeed Upper tie bar
Custom Rear tie bar (2 c clamps and a piece of metal, lol)
Poly everything
5 lug swap from a VR6


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Koni Sport (Yellows) set to 2 F, 5 R, for optimal traction during weight transfer/launches
> Rear shocks set to 2nd to lowest perch
> Neuspeed Race springs (38mm) with 15mm spring hats in front (I'm told it helps to compress the spring even further, not just for looks)
> Neuspeed 25mm front sway bar
> ...


 i approve :thumbup:


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

I know this isn't the right place, but I'm posting this anyways in the event someone's got one. This thread gets an ass-load of visibility...

So the radiator on my B5 cracked today. The car is currently on ramps, undrivable. I'm unemployed and honestly cannot swing a new ($130+) rad. So if anyone knows anyone parting a used B5/5 1/2 passat, let me know please. I'm not one to ever ask for sh*t, but I'm now car-less, and this couldn't have come at a worse time for me. At least it's still warm out to work on.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> i approve :thumbup:


Thanks, it was a pain to get it all dialed in though! Spinning up to 60mph = suck. I now only spin til around 40, 45. The Koni's made one hell of a difference. They also ride great. Too bad I can't drive the GT till I put the new pistons in. I bought a beat beat beat DE VR6 today (for a swap), though.. spent the day swapping out spare parts. Put my H&R's on it, and had a friend weld up a 2.25" straight pipe. :laugh: Just needed a spare DD and the price was right. :laugh:



911_fan said:


> I know this isn't the right place, but I'm posting this anyways in the event someone's got one. This thread gets an ass-load of visibility...
> 
> So the radiator on my B5 cracked today. The car is currently on ramps, undrivable. I'm unemployed and honestly cannot swing a new ($130+) rad. So if anyone knows anyone parting a used B5/5 1/2 passat, let me know please. I'm not one to ever ask for sh*t, but I'm now car-less, and this couldn't have come at a worse time for me. At least it's still warm out to work on.


What years are B5's? And what engine (does it even matter)? I may be able to get one for cheap, T. :wave:


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

98-04 1.8t all take the same rad. Mine is a 2000 ATW code.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> 98-04 1.8t all take the same rad. Mine is a 2000 ATW code.


I'll try my best to find one for you. I'll make some calls. I don't know many people with B5's, though. But I'll try, brother. :thumbup:


----------



## OC80 (Aug 9, 2010)

im going all motor with my TREK. :thumbup:
im gonna get this stuff so far:
USRT intake mani
done up head (p&p and compression around 11:1) (already have)
270*, 272* or 276* camshaft
bfi c2 chip
exhaust (already have 2.5 catback and headers)
anyone have opinions or recommendations on the camshaft choice? how much power should i see? will it be a stock vr6 beater? thanks


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

OC80 said:


> im going all motor with my TREK. :thumbup:
> im gonna get this stuff so far:
> USRT intake mani
> done up head (p&p and compression around 11:1) (already have)
> ...


go with the TT 276.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Go with the 276. And you will definitely beat a VR....if its running only on 5 cylinders.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Go with the 276. And you will definitely beat a VR....if its running only on 5 cylinders.




yah, with all the mods u listed, u might be at 130whp with the 276 cam and a good tune like a C2 chip, more with Megasquirt... 

stock VR is like 150whp, and with a few bolt-ons I've seen them with 170+whp...

its no lie the VR is a great engine... I often regret not getting one


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

OC80 said:


> im going all motor with my TREK. :thumbup:
> im gonna get this stuff so far:
> USRT intake mani
> done up head (p&p and compression around 11:1) (already have)
> ...


Jess, you should really think about what you want out of that first! DD or racekor.. The cam choice will make a big difference in both dd-ability and MPG.

But, if you go with a 276*, and all the stuff you already stated, you should see around ~130whp, if that's the head I sold you. It's an OBD1 head with a 3 angle valve job. Decked .040" and port matched a bit for that OBX header. It has Autotech HD springs, too, if I remember correctly. 
A 276* cam will do great for power, but ddability will fall a bit. You'll have to shift higher. You should get an adjustable cam-gear, set it to +*4, and you'll gain low end tq. Now.. Since you worked for me for like 12 hours the other day, so even if you worked for like 15 an hour, you earned a bit - you can have my old 276, the lifters, and an adjustable cam-gear, if I have one laying around. I'll make a package up for you. Send me your address in a PM. 
If you do have 130whp or so in that 2 door, and you do a little weight reduction, you should beat a guy in a VR6 Jetta. Or a VR6 GTI.. You only weigh like 100 lbs.. :laugh:

It isn't a TREK I don't think.. It's a 2 door Golf. Idk what the hell it is, honestly. What I think is someone just slapped a TREK badge on it. It doesn't have TREK seats, those are "party" seats. What year is it? 97? Idk.. Might be a Golf GT or something silly like a Jazz or something. Who knows. Lol. MK3 trim levels are silly.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> A 276* cam will do great for power, but ddability will fall a bit. You'll have to shift higher. You should get an adjustable cam-gear, set it to +*4, and you'll gain low end tq.


this is where the WLSA 276 will come in handy vs the normal.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Moving forward, can we please just regard it as the FI 276? 

Also, big cams don't necessarily mean a huge hit to your mpg's. I was still seeing 30+ on my old golf.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Moving forward, can we please just regard it as the FI 276?
> 
> Also, big cams don't necessarily mean a huge hit to your mpg's. I was still seeing 30+ on my old golf.


NO! Cause its not JUST for FI.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

How about we take a pole on how many people know what the acronym WLSA actually means and what effect it has on cam performance. It's an FI 276. The NLSA 276 is the NA 276.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Jess, you should really think about what you want out of that first! DD or racekor.. The cam choice will make a big difference in both dd-ability and MPG.
> 
> But, if you go with a 276*, and all the stuff you already stated, you should see around ~130whp, if that's the head I sold you. It's an OBD1 head with a 3 angle valve job. Decked .040" and port matched a bit for that OBX header. It has Autotech HD springs, too, if I remember correctly.
> A 276* cam will do great for power, but ddability will fall a bit. You'll have to shift higher. You should get an adjustable cam-gear, set it to +*4, and you'll gain low end tq. Now.. Since you worked for me for like 12 hours the other day, so even if you worked for like 15 an hour, you earned a bit - you can have my old 276, the lifters, and an adjustable cam-gear, if I have one laying around. I'll make a package up for you. Send me your address in a PM.
> ...


I can feel the 8v :heart:


----------



## OC80 (Aug 9, 2010)

thanks colm! :heart: I'm gonna order c2's tune tonight. where do you get that 9mm headgasket? the one for +.5 compression i mean. Could i use one of those and see gains? or would my engine ping? 




911_fan said:


> How about we take a pole on how many people know what the acronym WLSA actually means and what effect it has on cam performance. It's an FI 276. The NLSA 276 is the NA 276.


isn't it wide lobe center angle? whats the s?


----------



## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

I pulled my old head awhile ago and finally got to removing the cam over the weekend. Anyone think it's still useable with this wear? It's on the center and the cap was worn too. Not really deep enough to catch a fingernail. Lobes look fine. I was going to sell it but don't want to sell someone junk. It's a 280/278 cat cam, part number etched 7650012 with a 272 stamp. It was sold as a 272 in some group buy a decade ago, but only me and one other guy on here got it.










It ran fine before I pulled the head. No oil consumption problems or anything. A mediocre shop did bend my valves shortly after I had the head installed when they botched a timing job. I'm not sure if it was scored like that after or not cause I had a buddy rebuild it again, but I ran it for around 150k miles after rebuild.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

OC80 said:


> isn't it wide lobe center angle? whats the s?


 some say LCA (center)

or

some say LSA (seperation)


Same thing tho.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Incorrect. Those are two separate measurements. Here is a quote from my cm thread....

Some facts and opinions....
. 
The Lobe Separation Angle (LSA) of the camshaft lobe is where the peak lift occurs in crankshaft degrees either BTDC or ATDC. The LSA is the result of your lobe centerlines added together, then divided by two. Some camshafts are ground with identical lobe centers (e.g. 110° + 110° / 2 = 110Â°) while others have mismatched lobe centers (e.g. 109.5° + 110.5° = 110°). Although both cams share the same 110° Lobe center, their performance will be much different. The LSA will be a determining factor in what your valve overlap will be in relation to the duration you decide to go with. High-duration camshafts with wide LSAs (e.g. between 106°-110°) are ideal for upper rpm power and produce a lumpy idle. Narrower LSAs (e.g. 111°-115°) accentuate low-end torque and provide a smoother idle.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Incorrect. Those are two separate measurements. Here is a quote from my cm thread....
> 
> Some facts and opinions....
> .
> The Lobe Separation Angle (LSA) of the camshaft lobe is where the peak lift occurs in crankshaft degrees either BTDC or ATDC. The LSA is the result of your lobe centerlines added together, then divided by two. Some camshafts are ground with identical lobe centers (e.g. 110° + 110° / 2 = 110Â°) while others have mismatched lobe centers (e.g. 109.5° + 110.5° = 110°). Although both cams share the same 110° Lobe center, their performance will be much different. The LSA will be a determining factor in what your valve overlap will be in relation to the duration you decide to go with. High-duration camshafts with wide LSAs (e.g. between 106°-110°) are ideal for upper rpm power and produce a lumpy idle. Narrower LSAs (e.g. 111°-115°) accentuate low-end torque and provide a smoother idle.


_the student has become the teacher..._


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Incorrect. Those are two separate measurements. Here is a quote from my cm thread....
> 
> Some facts and opinions....
> .
> The Lobe Separation Angle (LSA) of the camshaft lobe is where the peak lift occurs in crankshaft degrees either BTDC or ATDC. The LSA is the result of your lobe centerlines added together, then divided by two. Some camshafts are ground with identical lobe centers (e.g. 110° + 110° / 2 = 110Â°) while others have mismatched lobe centers (e.g. 109.5° + 110.5° = 110°). Although both cams share the same 110° Lobe center, their performance will be much different. The LSA will be a determining factor in what your valve overlap will be in relation to the duration you decide to go with. High-duration camshafts with wide LSAs (e.g. between 106°-110°) are ideal for upper rpm power and produce a lumpy idle. Narrower LSAs (e.g. 111°-115°) accentuate low-end torque and provide a smoother idle.


Great description Travis! Just one thing, you have narrow and wide backwards. The smaller (in degrees) the LSA the narrower it is and bigger numbers indicate a wider LSA.

Car Craft magazine did a side by side comparison several years ago using 4 different LSAs but the same lobes and it did exactly what you described. Tight (or narrow) LSAs moved the powerband upwards, wide LSAs moved it downwards and improved idle quality. LSA has a similar effect to an adjustable cam sprocket as far as where the powerband is.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Incorrect. Those are two separate measurements. Here is a quote from my cm thread....
> 
> Some facts and opinions....
> .
> The Lobe Separation Angle (LSA) of the camshaft lobe is where the peak lift occurs in crankshaft degrees either BTDC or ATDC. The LSA is the result of your lobe centerlines added together, then divided by two. Some camshafts are ground with identical lobe centers (e.g. 110° + 110° / 2 = 110Â°) while others have mismatched lobe centers (e.g. 109.5° + 110.5° = 110°). Although both cams share the same 110° Lobe center, their performance will be much different. The LSA will be a determining factor in what your valve overlap will be in relation to the duration you decide to go with. High-duration camshafts with wide LSAs (e.g. between 106°-110°) are ideal for upper rpm power and produce a lumpy idle. Narrower LSAs (e.g. 111°-115°) accentuate low-end torque and provide a smoother idle.


 i had a feeling i was going to be wrong about that. I stand corrected. :beer:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

OC80 said:


> thanks colm! :heart: I'm gonna order c2's tune tonight. where do you get that 9mm headgasket? the one for +.5 compression i mean. Could i use one of those and see gains? or would my engine ping?


It's a 90mm gasket, and BFI stocks it. It adds 0.5 compression on a stock engine. You should be fine if you run 93 octane! Did you get that package yet? I mailed it yesterday overnight shipping.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Can anyone recommend a good electronic boost controller that has a boost by gear function, along with a boost taper adjustment? I need one for my 94'.. I'm looking into how much work it will be to swap this engine in my MK1 coupe. 

Today was my only day off for a while, so I took the day and did my GT's pistons. Runs even better now! Now all that's left to do is buy some interior parts (MK3 Euro Recaros please!), and the GT is done. For now. :laugh:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Just been pondering something.. I have a spare TT race DP around my garage somewhere. It looks like this:










The piping is 2". I was thinking.. If I use a bigger flex joint, and 2.25" or 2.5" piping, It would probably have much better flow. But.. Idk. Just a thought.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

hurt said:


> can anyone recommend a good electronic boost controller that has a boost by gear function, along with a boost taper adjustment? I need one for my 94'.. I'm looking into how much work it will be to swap this engine in my mk1 coupe.
> 
> Today was my only day off for a while, so i took the day and did my gt's pistons. Runs even better now! Now all that's left to do is buy some interior parts (mk3 euro recaros please!), and the gt is done. For now. :laugh:


nlr ams-500


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

quick mock up


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> nlr ams-500


I was looking at one from Australia - by GFB. It holds alot of maps, it has a boost by speed and gear function, etc. 

I turned the boost up to 25 PSI on my 94' today. Pretty quick. May or may not have gone 140. 
The GT is faster, still... It pulls and pulls, no lag, no loss of low end, no problems with the forged pistons/rods. Runs great, pulls to 7500 RPM with no complaints with the camgear set to +4.. Since it's been so cold lately my tires don't stick. Spinning = fail. Going to get a set of 16" winter rims for it with winter tires. I don't want to ruin my RS's and good Toyo's. I'm probably not going to drive it much, but.. hey.. It's just a weekend car. The GTI VR6 is the dd and the 94' is the back up car. The VR6 feels so slow.. all stock, so it should, but.. hey, I'm a 2.0 guy.. 

I actually just bought a T-red vento bumper for my 94', and I'm going to end up selling it. Fail.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

TT has 272* cams again!











"TT Sport 272° Hydraulic Camshaft. This is a factory high performance cam designed for VW by Schrick that was for a special version of VW City that was not produced. 229° Duration, .449" lift. Good for CIS and OBD1 engines. (Will not fit Mk4 California Jetta '03-'05 with 2.0L "BBW" engine) Fair Idle. Also good for higher boost turbos."

I loved my old 272*.. Such a nice medium between a 270 and 276..


----------



## OC80 (Aug 9, 2010)

im going a different route than high hp normally aspirated! i got a Neuspeed scer kit for only 1250 bucks!!! 
any s/c or turbo gurus please tell me if you think this is a good build, i have 2,000 more dollars to spend..:
Neuspeed s/c kit 
smaller pulley for more PSIs
o20 diesel transmission *already have*
268*/260* camshaft TT tuning
heavy duty titanium spring kit
2.5'' exhaust *already have*
head spacer
C2 stage 1 eprom
30#/hr fuel injectors
p&p cylinder head *already have*
bfi stealth motor mounts
eurosport cam gear adjustable to -8 or +8

what do you guys think? 
I dont have to pay much for labor cus my friends with help me..

Colm, i sent you a cheque for the box you gave me. if you don't cash it i'll be mad at you. i can't take that much stuff for nothing!!


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

OC80 said:


> im going a different route than high hp normally aspirated! i got a Neuspeed scer kit for only 1250 bucks!!!
> any s/c or turbo gurus please tell me if you think this is a good build, i have 2,000 more dollars to spend..:
> Neuspeed s/c kit
> smaller pulley for more PSIs
> ...


I don't have a ton of experience with supercharged 2.0`s, only have ever had n/a and turbo but based off the power I have seen made with the Nuespeed sc ... I think everything you have on your list looks good except the headgasket spacer. I think even with the smallest pulley you will be safe with stock compression, and you will make more power. Colm will definitely know though:thumbup:

Sent from my VS840 4G using Tapatalk 2


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

02vwgolf said:


> I think even with the smallest pulley you will be safe with stock compression, and you will make more power.


With the 2.6" pulley, which is the smallest they officially support and recommend, it'd run around 6-9psi if you're lucky. After that, the only upgrades they recommend are water/meth injection and rising rate FPR. The FPR should have came with the kit. I was pushing around 8psi with my z-engineering kit on a stock ABA and it was fine. 

If you run a pulley smaller than the 2.6" the head spacer may be beneficial. People that have tried 2.5" and 2.4" have said they had pinging and tuning issues with stock compression.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

OC80 said:


> im going a different route than high hp normally aspirated! i got a Neuspeed scer kit for only 1250 bucks!!!
> any s/c or turbo gurus please tell me if you think this is a good build, i have 2,000 more dollars to spend..:
> Neuspeed s/c kit
> smaller pulley for more PSIs
> ...


This part list seems pretty good. Neuspeed's charger is great IMO for low boost applications. 
On my wife's 2004 2.0, with the 268/260 and the smaller pulley, it's around 7.5-8 PSI. 

You won't need a headspacer with such low boost.

This all really depends on how much HP you're trying to get out of your car, though. If you want more than 160whp, you'll want to go away from the Neuspeed charger.. Maybe get a BBM stage 1. I highly recommend the lysholm. 

The exhaust and worked head will come in handy with any supercharger. 

C2's tunes are great! 

The diesel trans isn't a must. The gear ratios aren't really that big of a deal compared to the 020 CHE, but they're decent.. I'd recommend a 02a Corrado transmission swap instead. :thumbup:

To all that say I know alot about the 8v S/C builds: I appreciate the kind words very much, but.. in reality, I'm learning too. I'm not a "guru" in my opinion. Just another enthusiast experimenting with cars as a hobby. But hey, I appreciate the kind words either way.

-Colm


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Happy Turkey Day, everyone. :thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

PS:

Every major aftermarket VW company have good deals going! Especially TT!


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I'm buying an automatic 1995 Golf for 200 dollars, and selling my DE GTI that I bought for a beater. What could possibly go wrong, it's only a 200 dollar beater? 

I'm going to fix the car up and sell it as a quick flip car since my niece needs a first car, so she'll probably get it. If not, I'll be doing the good ol bolt on trio, cam, chip, and exhaust along with my Ultra low's and use it for the rest of the winter. :thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

May2013...

my return to the 8v game....


You've been warned.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> May2013...
> 
> my return to the 8v game....
> 
> ...




Turbo I assume?
I'd like to see how my BBM GT would stack up to a highly modded ABA turbo! 
My stage II kinetic kit doesn't really compare. At all.. 25 PSI now, max.. and the BBM is running 1.5BAR max. 
The GT poops on the GL. Had a friend drive the GL next to me. I pulled from launch to 130 when I backed off. Aba-t =  for me. I'm going to sell my GL turbo, or put the engine in my MK1.. :laugh:


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Turbo I assume?
> I'd like to see how my BBM GT would stack up to a highly modded ABA turbo!
> My stage II kinetic kit doesn't really compare. At all.. 25 PSI now, max.. and the BBM is running 1.5BAR max.
> The GT poops on the GL. Had a friend drive the GL next to me. I pulled from launch to 130 when I backed off. Aba-t =  for me. I'm going to sell my GL turbo, or put the engine in my MK1.. :laugh:


 21psi cammed and other goods REVVING TO 8000! vs 25psi SRI (what else?) with lag and no traction...im sure the s/c raped face on the poor GL turbo, not to mention i'm sure the kit tune is weak. To take out the traction variable try a 60roll sometime. I am curious. 

On 25psi with a PROPER, moderately aggressive tune the turbo should be over 310whp. But you're on 42lb'ers so again ****'s weak lol.

Yes my next build is turbo.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

All this talk.


----------



## jettred3 (Aug 5, 2005)

[email protected] said:


> May2013...
> 
> my return to the 8v game....
> 
> ...


I'll race you!


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> 21psi cammed and other goods REVVING TO 8000! vs 25psi SRI (what else?) with lag and no traction...im sure the s/c raped face on the poor GL turbo, not to mention i'm sure the kit tune is weak. To take out the traction variable try a 60roll sometime. I am curious.
> 
> On 25psi with a PROPER, moderately aggressive tune the turbo should be over 310whp. But you're on 42lb'ers so again ****'s weak lol.
> 
> Yes my next build is turbo.



The 94 has:
SRI
Neuspeed camgear set to +4*
276* V2 cam (WLSA)
Neuspeed 60mm Exhaust (need a cutout)
Neuspeed wires
Corrado G60 transmission code ATA, VR6 3.39 F/D
Kinetic/C2 stage 3 turbo kit (T3/T4, 50 trim)
20-25 PSI (peaking and dropping off)
Snow tires (lololol)
FK 60/40 cupkit for suspension
Full weight car.. GT weighs less, due to all the euro parts, euro rad support, etc..
My buddy said he was shifting it as soon as it went off the tach, so ~7000 or so.

I know my GT is pretty much a completely different beast, but.. Meh. I love the BBM kit. I've had both S/C and turbo 8v cars at one point, but not both at once so easy to compare. The GT has the BBM trans, so.. I guess they're completely different animals. Well, they are.. I guess I'm just biased to S/C'd 8v's! :vampire:

I'm still looking to make more power with the GT. I have a built engine, all I need now is more boost (custom pulley), possibly bigger injectors and a fully custom tune, and maybe some nitrous if I really want to risk it..


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

I always hear about this nice stuff, yet I never see any videos...


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Ditto

*yawn*


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Bump for the forummm


Work. I hate being out of New England.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Got a rental for the time I'm in this horrid city - A mk6 Jetta.. 2.0. 

More power from the 2l 8v engine, VW, please! 

Getting onto the highway is so freaking dangerous when 0-60 takes like 13 seconds.  

PS: 

Anyone have any tips for running 17's on a MK3? Will I need to do anything special? I already have pulled/rolled fenders front and rear.. Only a ~55/45 drop. I want to run 17x8's with 245/35/ZR17 tires on my GT. More traction = :thumbup: 
225/45/16's are on the car right now. Less traction than I'd like, but it launches relatively well.. The suspension really helped with launches when my friend tweaked the rebound settings!


----------



## aqeel-1994 (Oct 22, 2011)

http://www.fastwayracer.com/Forced-...nternal-Wastegate-Turbo-Kit/product_info.html 

what about this kit guys ? is it good ? ...... i`m thinking to install this in my jetta 2012 2.0L 8v . 

i installed APR filter but it is not give me enough power .


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

aqeel-1994 said:


> http://www.fastwayracer.com/Forced-...nternal-Wastegate-Turbo-Kit/product_info.html
> 
> what about this kit guys ? is it good ? ...... i`m thinking to install this in my jetta 2012 2.0L 8v .
> 
> i installed APR filter but it is not give me enough power .


generic crap kit you have to do alot of modification to make work :thumbdown:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

aqeel-1994 said:


> http://www.fastwayracer.com/Forced-...nternal-Wastegate-Turbo-Kit/product_info.html
> 
> what about this kit guys ? is it good ? ...... i`m thinking to install this in my jetta 2012 2.0L 8v .
> 
> i installed APR filter but it is not give me enough power .


 That's a generic eBay kit which would require fabrication.. lots of it. Welding, cutting, welding, etc. 
eBay turbo's aren't exactly known for good things.. Those eBay manifolds are basically POS's and they will crack and cause you all sorts of problems. 

The 2012 is too recent for most aftermarket companies to have anything more than intakes and exhausts.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Tearing down the GL turbo when I get home Monday.. Will be selling the engine minus my SRI to a friend, the shell to another acquaintance.. made about 500 dollars out of the deal. Meh.. :screwy: 

ABA turbos just don't cut it for me. I prefer the GT; I'll be taking the suspension up one more step to some sort of dampening/preload/height adjustable coil and thicker tires, and I will be building some sort of suitable DD. Maybe a MK5 2.0T with a nice drop and wheels. :screwy:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Colm, you got any recommendations on fmic's? I want to put one on my B5. Been looking at those $250 dealies on eBay...not sure how good those are. I just want to replace my smic. My ait's get too hot because of the fog light assemblies I modded in. It literally blocks the opening to the core. Don't need a nothing big, expensive, or fancy-shmancy...just effective.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Colm, you got any recommendations on fmic's? I want to put one on my B5. Been looking at those $250 dealies on eBay...not sure how good those are. I just want to replace my smic. My ait's get too hot because of the fog light assemblies I modded in. It literally blocks the opening to the core. Don't need a nothing big, expensive, or fancy-shmancy...just effective.


 depending on your level of fabbing stuff up i'd roll with the treadstone TR6. Good price and EFFECTIVE. i loved my treadstone fmic. obviously you'd have to put some piping together tho... 

And if eurojet makes a kit then look into them as well. :thumbup:


----------



## MYGTI_MA (May 3, 2010)

911_fan said:


> Colm, you got any recommendations on fmic's? I want to put one on my B5. Been looking at those $250 dealies on eBay...not sure how good those are. I just want to replace my smic. My ait's get too hot because of the fog light assemblies I modded in. It literally blocks the opening to the core. Don't need a nothing big, expensive, or fancy-shmancy...just effective.


 I am going with a Saab 95 front mount as its a tall slim fit so it won't look like some monster low mount intercooler and with the fact that I have already dumped AC it fits like a glove in the euro rad support. The only issue is the piping is going to be a bit tight.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Ok, my fab skills are 0 when it comes to welding. I don't own one and have no access to one. That's why I was looking at that kit on eBay. I know it's not a plug n play deal...some finagling is required. But I can't do the 'piece together stuff' route. I only have the little K03, so it's not pike I need a super performing core. And they don't make an upgraded smic....those are just for the Jetta/golfs.


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Ok, my fab skills are 0 when it comes to welding. I don't own one and have no access to one. That's why I was looking at that kit on eBay. I know it's not a plug n play deal...some finagling is required. But I can't do the 'piece together stuff' route. I only have the little K03, so it's not pike I need a super performing core. And they don't make an upgraded smic....those are just for the Jetta/golfs.


 Actually they do: These will work with some finagling:http://www.ebay.com/itm/00-02-Audi-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item588bea1727&vxp=mtr


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Colm, you got any recommendations on fmic's? I want to put one on my B5. Been looking at those $250 dealies on eBay...not sure how good those are. I just want to replace my smic. My ait's get too hot because of the fog light assemblies I modded in. It literally blocks the opening to the core. Don't need a nothing big, expensive, or fancy-shmancy...just effective.


 Personally I've used eBay fmic's in the past and *some* aren't all that bad. I like the one my BBM kit came with because it actually fit without ripping apart my bumper like some people have to do, you can buy one for $350 from BBM's website, and just use some junkyard piping for the charge-pipe. idk if it'll fit though. I'm not really sure about B5's. They have a closed off front bumper set up, right? 

I'd check out eBay for sure, or maybe a junkyard? Maybe you'll get lucky and find a 1.8T with a FM already installed. Overall, I'm not very credible when it comes to B5's, I've never owned a modded one.. I hope you find my post useful in some way brother! Good luck :thumbup:


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Oh, and a quick question: 

This 94 Golf is actually in decent shape rust-wise, so.. I'm going to daily it (instead of buying a MK5!).. I'm going to make it nicer and more.. classy.. on the inside/outside. OEM+ looking. Clean.. I want everything to work, even cruise control and whatnot. I want a comfortable daily. 
Plans so far: 
I'm going to swap in a full beaver GLX interior with heated seats, PS, A/C, PW, dual gloveboxes, etc.. 
Bilstein HD's with H&R springs (2.0/1.7 drop) 
Wheels and tires (probably a set of 15x7" OEM looking wheels on 195/55/15's) 
This car is an automatic. I will be getting rid of the ugly gear selector and making it look like a standard with a shift boot, a MOMO hidden-button knob, and everything from a DIY I found somewhere, and MOMO wheel. 
I'm going to make it look as modern as possible, with exterior updates as well. (ecodes, euro bumpers, fogs, duckbill lip, etc) 
I'm going to make the 2l a little more peppy with an intake, exhaust, and a chip. 
I plan on an Autotech 270*, 2.5" Magnaflow exhaust, and a GIAC cam file chip, so around 135bhp or so. The intake manifold that will be going on is a MK4 manifold, unless I decide on using my SRI (unlikely for a couple reasons.. Have another build in mind, an ABA swapped Scirocco. 

TL;DR 
My question is: 
has anyone used a MK4 intake manifold on a MK3 with a MK4 intake box that actually works, fits, and looks good? I want everything OEM+ looking. 
Thanks, guys. 

PS: I named this wonderful Golf The Turtle, because it's Sequoia and it's slower than.. well.. uh.. pretty much everything.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Use the air box out of a Corrado G60 and rotate it 180*.

I also have a complete mkiv air box that I would let go for a 6er of Stella.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Use the air box out of a Corrado G60 and rotate it 180*.
> 
> I also have a complete mkiv air box that I would let go for a 6er of Stella.


 Is the Corrado airbox a well flowing unit? Around here no junkyards ever have a whole Corrado.. They come in without airboxes 99% of the time.. Pod filters are apparently a very very popular mod among "VEE dubbers"  
If I decide to make a MK4 unit work, I'll definitely let you know! :thumbup:


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Bump for the forum's sake. 

PS: 

My 94' ABA-T is officially not my problem anymore. umpkin:


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Anyone think running a 272* cam on stock valve springs (OBD1) would last? I'm thinking about it. It's one less thing to do.. And is there anyway to beef up a MK3 Auto, or swap in a MK4 auto, perchance? 

PS: 
I don't have much time to work on my cars right now, but.. I'm taking off a while from work soon, for the holidays. I don't have to work the 15th to the 15th! HELLS YEAAAAAAHHHHHHH 

In that time I shall be building my 94' up to DD status. I got a MK3.5 Cabrio wheel from a friend because they look classy. Parts I am buying and installing within my time off are: A dual Borla TT 2.5" exhaust with a resonator (ultra quiet), H&R cupkit, Jetta front swap with CLEAR ecodes and fogs, Euro bumpers (GTI bumpers are so cheap!) BBS RA's with 195/55/15's (already have), Full tan/beaver GLX leather interior swap with heated seats (already have), 270 or 272 cam, mildly ported head (already have) TT downpipe and highflow CAT, and much much more.. I'm making a full list tomorrow. I will be tearing down the interior of the car to the bare shell and getting rid of that ugly foamstuff and putting in some quality sound-deadening film, everywhere. All 4 regulators will be replaced. I want EVERYTHING to work, even cruise. 

I will greatly appreciate help if anyone wants to swing by sometime, as I will be in MA the entire time except for a week from the 26th to the 6th, as I am going on vacation with my wife and daughters to California.. So I have around 3 weeks to tear a car down and rebuild it, ground up. I need a reliable, decently quick, COMFORTABLE, good-looking daily. :thumbup: 

Thanks, guys. I appreciate all the support everyone has given me over the past year when I made this thread and built my own cars. 

The 2.0 community is wonderful IMO. :thumbup::thumbup: :beer: :beer: :beer:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Bump for the forum's sake.
> 
> PS:
> 
> My 94' ABA-T is officially not my problem anymore. umpkin:


 it never was "a problem"


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

272* would be fine on stock duals. Just don't go revving the crap out of it. I don't think they are strong enough to keep the valves from floating at super high revs.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> it never was "a problem"


 For me it was! I don't really like ABA-T's anymore. My 94' lagged, lagged, lagged, spun, spun, spun.. The GT is heaps faster. HEAPS. The 94's engine is going in a MK1.. so we'll see how it does in a 1000lb lighter chassis, I suppose! 

PS: I was looking at USRT's new injectors. I have 42#/hr injectors right now.. If I buy some injectors from you guys, say.. something bigger, like 750cc's or something, would that mess with my tune? Or would the ECU only let the 42#/hr's max in, and not run pig rich, and the new injectors just be more efficient at duty cycle and all that? 



911_fan said:


> 272* would be fine on stock duals. Just don't go revving the crap out of it. I don't think they are strong enough to keep the valves from floating at super high revs.


 It's an auto - it shifts at ~5500 stock. With my old TT chip in my wife's old auto car it shifted at 6200-6400 depending on the gear, so.. I won't be revving it high. If I ever shift it manually I may take it to like 6800, but I'm pretty sure TT's automatic chip tunes limiters are lower than the standard ones, and I will set the adjustable camgear to +4* so it'll be more low-end than high revs anywho. 

I'm just worried about the auto trans holding up. I know .zero used a Auto trans with a big cat cam, I wonder if he has any advice? I need to figure out if there's any way to beef up the trans. I don't want it to blow up. Or, if there are any Auto swaps that are stronger than the MK3 2.0 trans like a MK4 trans or a G60 auto trans or something that would fit.. I'd imagine the G60 auto would fit, but idk much about the automatics. :/ 

Tomorrow my shopping spree begins for this Golf. Bah.. I wish I could wait till the Xmas sales. But whatever. I want to get this thing done quickly.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> For me it was! I don't really like ABA-T's anymore. My 94' lagged, lagged, lagged, spun, spun, spun.. The GT is heaps faster. HEAPS. The 94's engine is going in a MK1.. so we'll see how it does in a 1000lb lighter chassis, I suppose!
> 
> PS: I was looking at USRT's new injectors. I have 42#/hr injectors right now.. If I buy some injectors from you guys, say.. something bigger, like 750cc's or something, would that mess with my tune? Or would the ECU only let the 42#/hr's max in, and not run pig rich, and the new injectors just be more efficient at duty cycle and all that?


 ummm ITS GONNA SPIN MORE DUH! Now you're going to a chassis where wider tires is a problem lol. 

And of course a larger injector will mess with the tune! The latency values and everything will be off. The older motronic doesnt adapt anywhere near as well as the new motronics (mk4+).


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> ummm ITS GONNA SPIN MORE DUH! Now you're going to a chassis where wider tires is a problem lol.
> 
> And of course a larger injector will mess with the tune! The latency values and everything will be off. The older motronic doesnt adapt anywhere near as well as the new motronics (mk4+).


 Argghh! Motronic = moronic  

The MK1 2.0T isn't mine, so it's not my problem thankfully. I bet it'll spin like crazy unless it's got some wide semi-slicks on it or something! I'm only helping with the 2.0 swap. I think the MK1 has 175/55/15's on it.. Yeah, it's gonna be a spinner. 

It's barely been a week since I sold the 94' and someone's already driving around with a VR6 swap in it. :laugh:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Argghh! Motronic = moronic
> 
> The MK1 2.0T isn't mine, so it's not my problem thankfully. I bet it'll spin like crazy unless it's got some wide semi-slicks on it or something! I'm only helping with the 2.0 swap. I think the MK1 has 175/55/15's on it.. Yeah, it's gonna be a spinner.
> 
> It's barely been a week since I sold the 94' and someone's already driving around with a VR6 swap in it. :laugh:


 of course winter projects brewing! It'll prolly be turbo by the end of the month


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> of course winter projects brewing! It'll prolly be turbo by the end of the month


I just can't wait til I can get to work on my Golf; I don't like dding my wife's MK6 or the Mk4.. or my 82 TD (one of the slowest cars on earth) and get a smaller pulley made for my GT, and get some height adjustable, dampening adjustable, preload adjustable, etc, coils (probably B&G's), and some 17x8"s with 245's. Hoping for wonderful traction/ride/"stance". My pal is a great suspension tuner and he regularly tracks his MK2 2.1l stroker coupe so he will be able to set it up for me. Vacation's almost here, so I should have time! :thumbup:


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Q, with your Mk4 Turbo did you ever run into high heat temps? 

My wife's MK4 2.0 with the Neuspeed S/C running 8PSI max, 268/260 cam, custom CAI with AEM w/filter condom thing for water resistance in the bumper, and 2.5" 42dd Magnaflow exhaust, yadayada. Nothing big.. but it's a nice fun dd for the moment.

Problem is the temps get a little too high for my liking.. They start going from right in the middle (190*) to around 3/4's (~220*) after a bit of spirited driving (6500 RPM upshifts). Of course, the Neuspeed's charger is right over the freaking exhaust manifold.. so that doesn't help much. :banghead:

Do you think that's a safe temp or should I invest in an aftermarket radiator and fan, and perhaps an oil cooler? And if so, any recommendations on products?

I'm thinking of making a heatshield for the exhaust manifold as well.. Anyone have a recommendation for what material I should use? 

Any help is greatly appreciated; I don't often work on MK4's. 

PS: Anyone ever run a aftermarket oil pan on a MK3 2.0? I was reading an old SuperStreet magazine.. and in a Moroso add they had a street/race high capacity oil pan. I think that'd be nice for my GT, sometimes oil temps get a little warm. 
But, alas, I can't find one for sale. 

Thanks, guys.

PS again: Anyone want to help me design a new format for the thread? I figure it could go in steps, like RootBeer's thread.. Like
1: Cam
2: chip
3:exhaust
4: SRI

(just examples)


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Q, with your Mk4 Turbo did you ever run into high heat temps?
> 
> My wife's MK4 2.0 with the Neuspeed S/C running 8PSI max, 268/260 cam, custom CAI with AEM w/filter condom thing for water resistance in the bumper, and 2.5" 42dd Magnaflow exhaust, yadayada. Nothing big.. but it's a nice fun dd for the moment.
> 
> ...


my coolant temps never really moved...EVER. But logging it i did see 205ish here and there. but that was during the summer. The oil temp gauge i installed is what i paid attention to which never really got past 230. It pretty much stayed at 220ish with spirited driving. I've gotten them up to 250 tho one day ballin with the porsche club lol. An oil cooler is always a good option to keep temps more regular. We have a few offerings for that on our site. 

Anyway just be sure you're running synthetic. It doesnt breakdown at these temps where as dino oil....becomes endangered


----------



## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Hurt said:


> I'm just worried about the auto trans holding up. I know .zero used a Auto trans with a big cat cam, I wonder if he has any advice?


I never had any problems and ran that cat cam for around 200k miles. It was an 096. Your RPMs seem a little high for stock shifting, but I don't know if that's at WOT/kick down or not, which tends to shift higher. In lower gears mine usually shifted early around 4-5k if I remember. I'd have to manually shift in lower gears to keep it from shifting early and get it's intended power, although every now and then it would hold and shift later. I was running a TT chip and also had cam gear advanced. I don't know what the rev limiter was on the chip, but I hit it a few times in 2nd and 3rd gear pulls definitely before 7k. I beat on it pretty hard for 10 years with no problems and only changed filter and fluid once.:thumbup:


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

will be turbocharging the ABA this saturday! :beer:


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> I never had any problems and ran that cat cam for around 200k miles. It was an 096. Your RPMs seem a little high for stock shifting, but I don't know if that's at WOT/kick down or not, which tends to shift higher. In lower gears mine usually shifted early around 4-5k if I remember. I'd have to manually shift in lower gears to keep it from shifting early and get it's intended power, although every now and then it would hold and shift later. I was running a TT chip and also had cam gear advanced. I don't know what the rev limiter was on the chip, but I hit it a few times in 2nd and 3rd gear pulls definitely before 7k. I beat on it pretty hard for 10 years with no problems and only changed filter and fluid once.:thumbup:


It shifts around 5200-5500 when floored/kick down. I don't really shift it manually, I don't find the need. It's stock at the moment so no problems there. Lol. 

Hopefully the TT chip will work well like it did in my wife's old Golf. Maybe I'll get a C2 tune if they do autos (I'm pretty sure they do). 

I really appreciate your help and advice! I don't really like auto transmissions, lol. umpkin:


----------



## My Big (Dec 26, 2010)

hey guys hopefully you can help me out here..

so i have a dd 1996 obdII 2.slow 8v..
I have these for mods:
260* TT camshaft
TT chip
Stock intake box with paper filter for winter and Neuspeed cai for warmer months.. [it takes so long to heat up when i start it cold with the cai!]
2.25" TT exhaust

I enjoy the car its a real fun daily driver.
I want a short shifter, just a little bit.. like 25% or so.. and, I have a legit reason to buy one because:
My shifter feels funny and sloppy, and it has since i got it a year ago or so. It feels like 2nd gear is notchy and doesn't engage all the way sometimes and rarely grinds a bit but goes into gear fine with no problems after.. 

sometimes you can feel it go from 1st to like half way into 2nd, then it'll pull itself into gear when I let the clutch out and go.. so I figure kill 2 birds with one stone and do the short shifter and bushing kit from TT

I'm gonna rebuild the shift linkage with this:








http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_13_395&products_id=894

..and

Do I need this special linkage alignment VW tool to do anything to the linkage?









Is this a DIY job? I put my cam in myself, so that's about as skilled as I am.. is this a hard thing to do? 

Thanks so much for the help yall i appreciate it a lot.

also what upgrade should i do next? i am thinking a long runner manifold maybe. opinions thoughts thanks


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

My Big said:


> Stock intake box with paper filter for winter and Neuspeed cai for warmer months.. *(it takes so long to heat up when i start it cold with the cai!)*
> 
> 
> > lolwut?


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> My Big said:
> 
> 
> > Stock intake box with paper filter for winter and Neuspeed cai for warmer months.. *(it takes so long to heat up when i start it cold with the cai!)*
> ...


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Um, yea.

A CAI has nothing to do with you car coming up to temp slower. Not unless you had the cone filter sitting in liquid nitrogen. Lol

And why recommend a 272? Why not just go for the 276? About the same lift, but a couple more hp.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Um, yea.
> 
> A CAI has nothing to do with you car coming up to temp slower. Not unless you had the cone filter sitting in liquid nitrogen. Lol
> 
> And why recommend a 272? Why not just go for the 276? About the same lift, but a couple more hp.


I like the 272 - it was in my first ever modified MK3. I think it's a little more streetable and it is less expensive than the 276*.

But.. Doesn't it, in theory?
The stock airbox has that flapper for cold starts, allowing hot air to get sucked in from the exhaust manifold heatshield to get up to temp quicker. When you put a cone filter on the end of your MAF, with a heatshield, you get rid of that feature.. So you're getting the cold air you're driving through. I'd imagine that the IAT's are lower (in theory).


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

I suppose if you are the kind of person that starts your car and let's it idle in the driveway for 20 minutes to warm up. Normal people get in and drive the car after starting it....warms up immediately.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

It was brought to my attention that Neuspeed no longer offers a lifetime warranty with their exhaust system for the MK3 platform: It has been changed to 2 years! 

And I also noticed this:
499.95 for the Jetta system.
899.95 for the Golf/GTI/Cabrio system(!)

If anyone has a Golf/GTI/Cabrio and is going to buy the Neuspeed system.. _Buy the Jetta system_. The only thing in a different spot is the tail pipe(s). 

400 dollars cheaper! All you'd have to do is get the tailpipes shortened and weld the tips back on. Any good exhaust shop will be able to do that for around 100 dollars. 

Heck, you could do it yourself by sawing the excess pipes off and getting a couple clamp on exhaust tips to suit your style. Which would cost around 50-100 dollars, depending on what tips you buy. Or you could go to a junkyard and look around and get lucky and get some for next to nothing. 

Just thought this was a nice relevant post. Thanks to Germancarnut51 for bringing it to my attention inadvertently. :thumbup:

PS: My Golf is going under the knife tomorrow; if anyone wants to swing by and help me get this cylinder-head put together, the suspension put on, the GLX interior swapped in, and the.. well, ALOT... Come on by.. I'll provide :beer:, food, and my shop is fully heated and it even has a heated floor, so it isn't going to be working in a driveway in freezing cold rainy weather or anything. umpkin:


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Oh; another update for *ANYONE WITH A 2.0 WITH A CONE FILTER*

If you are using a oiled filter, you are running a risk of ruining the MAF. I'd recommend switching to a AEM/K&N dry-flow filter, I have for my GT, and I will be using one on my Golf. Our MAF's are too sensitive for any oil non-sense..

Just letting you guys know. Gotta look out for eachother!


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Oh; another update for *ANYONE WITH A 2.0 WITH A CONE FILTER*
> 
> If you are using a oiled filter, you are running a risk of ruining the MAF. I'd recommend switching to a AEM/K&N dry-flow filter, I have for my GT, and I will be using one on my Golf. Our MAF's are too sensitive for any oil non-sense..
> 
> Just letting you guys know. Gotta look out for eachother!


psssh i just sprayed mine with starter fluid. good as new.:wave:


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## CROWN (Jun 14, 2007)

:thumbdown:K&N


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Not this again....

Look, if you re-oiled your filter because you somehow managed to drive 1,000,000 miles on your K&N filter and it had to be serviced....and it wrecked your MAF....it's YOUR own STUPID fault. The filter needs only a light misting. Thats it. You aren't painting it on like a can of Krylon. You're just providing a liquid barrier to trap dirt.

I've been using those filters for over 20 years, on every vehicle I've owned, and have YET to have a MAF issue associated with the filter.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

FYI...

For those of you that own/use iPads, download the app Benchracers. If you have a dyno sheet, you can load the data in and see how it drag races against other cars. It's fun!


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> FYI...
> 
> For those of you that own/use iPads, download the app Benchracers. If you have a dyno sheet, you can load the data in and see how it drag races against other cars. It's fun!


Hows my old coupe do with the 160whp set up? 
02A 6 speed Gear ratios are:
1st: 3.3
2nd: 1.94
3rd: 1.31
4th: 1.09
5th: .89
6th .75
3.94 F/D

225/45/16 semi-slicks

Can you look it up for me T? I'd appreciate it!

PS: Got a ton done on the Golf today.. GLX Interior is in, suspension is on, poly bushings in, Motor out, head started to be assembled..


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

worked on installing the SPA kit today, a lot of things needed sorting and things missing , we will get it to work though, I am confident of that. Until then though I am staying NA.... 

Also limited shop time really ****s things up!

worked on it from 930am-5pm

So far in I am only at a bit less than $1600 spent for the kit and c2 chip, injectors and other misc.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> worked on installing the SPA kit today, a lot of things needed sorting and things missing , we will get it to work though, I am confident of that. Until then though I am staying NA....
> 
> Also limited shop time really ****s things up!
> 
> ...


what are u missing?


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> Also limited shop time really ****s things up!
> 
> 
> So far in I am only at a bit less than $1600 spent for the kit and c2 chip, injectors and other misc.


You should come to Boston sometime. You could use my shop. :wave:

Got my engine *almost* done today in the 94'! It runs and drives pretty well. The 272* advanced 5* pulls hard to the 6200 RPM shift point of the trans. Very quick compared to stock. SRI is going on tomorrow, along with a Neuspeed top airbox.. I don't like cone filters!


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> 245's Advan's should grip amazingly well! I'm getting a smaller pulley ASAP, too, so I can run around 22+PSI through the whole rev range. With the built bottom end it should be able to take it. If I don't meet my goal of a sub 13 second 1/4, I will probably do a fully done up 1.8 16v head swap (Blasphemy!).
> 
> I still have my first ever Europlate that says "2.Slow+Low". Ironic. :laugh:


:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

16v head swap?? Don't you dare Colm!


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## OC80 (Aug 9, 2010)

MahTrek=] said:


> 16v head swap?? Don't you dare Colm!


he wont do it 
he loves them 8v's too much haha :laugh:

I want another race Colm! i'm gonna turn the boost up and get better tires. your puny 8v is going down! :bs:


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MahTrek=] said:


> 16v head swap?? Don't you dare Colm!


I probably won't. I pull on my friends "stage 1" SRT-4 all day long, which is around 235hp factory, and he has an intake, full 3" turbo back exhaust, blow off valve, more boost, etc.. He seems to think it has around 290hp.. so I'm probably at around 250-275WHP. Not sure, but dyno runs are coming soon. 



OC80 said:


> he wont do it
> he loves them 8v's too much haha :laugh:
> 
> I want another race Colm! i'm gonna turn the boost up and get better tires. your puny 8v is going down! :bs:


Hah! 1.8t's are the thing of the past, Jess. You'll get smoked with that puny turbo.. Again.. umpkin:

Again, no street racing. Any of my "pulls" and "test runs" are done on a CLOSED ROAD or an air strip. NO street racing. 

PSA: DON'T STREET RACE.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> I probably won't. I pull on my friends "stage 1" SRT-4 all day long, which is around 235hp factory, and he has an intake, full 3" turbo back exhaust, blow off valve, more boost, etc.. He seems to think it has around 290hp.. so I'm probably at around 250-275WHP. Not sure, but dyno runs are coming soon.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


SO the pizza boy DID find another way home.


----------



## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

^^F&F reference hahahha?

Sent from my VS840 4G using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Guys, take advantage of Autotech's 30% off sale! It's 30% off til the end of the year!!


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Oh look, they are actually selling the for what they used to sell them at. Lol
$130>$160


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Oh look, they are actually selling the for what they used to sell them at. Lol
> $130>$160


Cams are just 111 bucks each ATM, and the clubsport 60/40 kit is only 350. SS 2.5" exhaust is 350. 10mm Spark plug wires are 60, just a ton of good deals IMO. 
I'm stocking up.. Ordered:
2 270* cams at 111 each
spark wire set at 69
25mm front swaybar at only 125,
Jetta 2.5" Exhaust for 350
28mm rear swaybar at 195,
16 lifters for only 6 bucks a pop,
clubsport 60/40 kit for 350
..and more.

My wife got me all of that for Xmas. :thumbup:

Love year end sales.
Stock up guys. :thumbup:


----------



## aqeel-1994 (Oct 22, 2011)

Can you help me guys?

That's my car 



















it is a sexy car but the problem is the Engine . it has the worst engine in the world

2.0L 8V 115hp !!!! :banghead:

i installed apr intake and it gave me 5Hp more but it is not enough . 











I am thinking to install Magnaflow exhaust .

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mpe-15486

1- do you think guys that this kit will give me more than 25Hp ?

i found some turbo kit like this:
http://www.fastwayracer.com/Forced-...nternal-Wastegate-Turbo-Kit/product_info.html


2-does this kit will work fine with my car especially it is a new car (2012) ? 

because the price for exhaust and turbo kit are similar , i am thinking to install the turbo kit rather than install the exhaust .


i think apr intake with magnaflow exhaust with good chip , it will give me more than 150Hp .


what is your opinion guys ? give me your advises .


Happy holiday guys :heart::heart:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

2 things....

Although your car measures 115hp, thats rated at the crank shaft. in real world measurements...at the wheels...you are looking at more like 95hp. thats what it would measure on a dyno...95whp. That fancy intake and cat-back exhaust, if you were lucky, might get you to 100whp. 

That turbo kit is useless without a proper ecu tune. Plus it says it needs a bigger fuel pump and bigger injectors. So that kit won't do squat for you. I don't think there is even a proper NA tune yet, never mind one for forced induction. If there is an NA tune out already, with the intake and exhaust, you might see 105whp. That's about 128 hp measured at the crank. 

There are a very limited amount of mods for this motor in this gen car.


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

aqeel-1994 said:


> Can you help me guys?
> 
> That's my car
> 
> ...


Honestly I would just trade the car in for one with a formidable engine. That car is too new, and I don't think anyone offers turbo software for the mk6 2.0 8v because there is no demand for it. Also, you're gonna get what you pay for with that turbo kit. It's crammed full of cheap "ebay" parts that are almost guaranteed to fail before you're done paying the car off.

Here's a link of what can be done as of early this year.....I wouldn't expect that it would have changed too much since it's publication in March.

http://www.eurotuner.com/techarticles/eurp_1205_2012_vw_jetta/viewall.html


----------



## aqeel-1994 (Oct 22, 2011)

911_fan said:


> 2 things....
> 
> Although your car measures 115hp, thats rated at the crank shaft. in real world measurements...at the wheels...you are looking at more like 95hp. thats what it would measure on a dyno...95whp. That fancy intake and cat-back exhaust, if you were lucky, might get you to 100whp.
> 
> ...


Actually when i saw this project ,i found things will help me to make it more faster . I hope that Apr make something to this engine because it is sick engine it must be at least 140Hp.

http://www.eurotuner.com/techarticles/eurp_1205_2012_vw_jetta/viewall.html


Thank you bro and happy holiday :wave:


----------



## aqeel-1994 (Oct 22, 2011)

PBWB said:


> Honestly I would just trade the car in for one with a formidable engine. That car is too new, and I don't think anyone offers turbo software for the mk6 2.0 8v because there is no demand for it. Also, you're gonna get what you pay for with that turbo kit. It's crammed full of cheap "ebay" parts that are almost guaranteed to fail before you're done paying the car off.
> 
> Here's a link of what can be done as of early this year.....I wouldn't expect that it would have changed too much since it's publication in March.
> 
> http://www.eurotuner.com/techarticles/eurp_1205_2012_vw_jetta/viewall.html


well, in my country there is not another engine For jetta like 2.0T and 2.5 . We have the sick engine for Jetta S, SE,SEL !!! i do not know who make this decision ?! VW in middle east made a big mistake . 

your link helped me a lot . I will buy C2 Flash as soon as i can . I sent for them a message to be sure what is the best for my engine. I Think C2 Flash and Neuspeed Pulley will make me fine with this engine Until i have more money to buy my Audi:heart:

Any way thank you a lot and happy holiday :wave:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

aqeel-1994 said:


> Actually when i saw this project ,i found things will help me to make it more faster . I hope that Apr make something to this engine because it is sick engine it must be at least 140Hp.
> 
> http://www.eurotuner.com/techarticles/eurp_1205_2012_vw_jetta/viewall.html
> 
> ...


You won't see anything near 140hp (115 at the wheels) without upgrading to a much larger camshaft profile. ( Or a completely worked head,) 

Regarding that article, the guy from Neuspeed doesn't mention a camshaft upgrade as an option for the engine. (Neuspeed sells cams). But then, it's Neuspeed, and they don't recommend anything unless it gets a C.A.R.B. exemption status. There was a thread posted here a while ago about a guy with a newer 2.0 looking at cam options. Not sure if the normal 8v cams work or not in this head. (Depends if it has VVT or not.) 

Those pulleys don't make/add hp...they free it up. Less rotation mass equals a quicker initial revving. Once the lighter weight is overcame, you still end up with the same weak engine at higher revs. The gains they tout are NOT peak gains, but most likely measured at low rpms. What Neuspeed charges for their pulleys vs the gains you get is criminal. People usually wait till all other mods are done before swapping pulleys.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

911_fan said:


> You won't see anything near 140hp (115 at the wheels) without upgrading to a much larger camshaft profile. ( Or a completely worked head,)
> 
> Regarding that article, the guy from Neuspeed doesn't mention a camshaft upgrade as an option for the engine. (Neuspeed sells cams). But then, it's Neuspeed, and they don't recommend anything unless it gets a C.A.R.B. exemption status. There was a thread posted here a while ago about a guy with a newer 2.0 looking at cam options. Not sure if the normal 8v cams work or not in this head. (Depends if it has VVT or not.)
> 
> Those pulleys don't make/add hp...they free it up. Less rotation mass equals a quicker initial revving. Once the lighter weight is overcame, you still end up with the same weak engine at higher revs. The gains they tout are NOT peak gains, but most likely measured at low rpms. What Neuspeed charges for their pulleys vs the gains you get is criminal. People usually wait till all other mods are done before swapping pulleys.


 PREACH! :laugh:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MK6 2.0's are pretty much doomed ATM. The only upgades available are a tune, exhaust, and an intake.. That's good for like 100whp, maybe 105.. I don't know if the MK6's can use the older 8v cams (MK3/Mk4), and I don't know the valve springs' specifications, so.. suggesting a cam is difficult.


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## 2.slowduo (Sep 17, 2008)

I have wondered about the mk6 8v as well. Like how closely related to the aba or aeg from the mk4

I saw one at a car show and they seem the same to me. But there is no way to know without internal examination. 
But. If it is similar that plastic manifold should make similar gains as the mk4 mani
And save a bunch of weight since it is plastic and plastic manifolds usually have pretty clean "casting" not really needing to be polished

I also wonder what the exhaust mani looks like

Also my aba rated at 115 crank hp put down a whopping 86whp and 117 tq when I had just a K&N and tt exhaust it was a real weezer. The new head made all the difference
Taking it to 120whp and 127tq
Not a fast car but fun. Glad it does not have to tote around a mk6 and I can't wait to throw it in a mk1 or mk2


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

2.slowduo said:


> I have wondered about the mk6 8v as well. Like how closely related to the aba or aeg from the mk4
> 
> But. If it is similar that plastic manifold should make similar gains as the mk4 mani
> And save a bunch of weight since it is plastic and plastic manifolds usually have pretty clean "casting" not really needing to be polished
> ...


I've wondered about the Mk6 manifold, too.. Seems like it might be a good idea, but idk if it's compatible with the ABA or AEG. 

ABA's are wonderful engines, but.. in a MK3, you'd need to get it to around 120+ whp to make it feel "quick". 
FI is a good idea. I love my BBM kit - 250+WHP is amazing and it's a wonderful set up. 
MK2 and MK1 ABA swaps are good, hell, I have a friend with a aba swap rabbit that has a very mild mod list:
260 TT camshaft
Head decked to 020", mild valve work
2.25" straight pipe
TT header no CAT
MK2 16v trans (9a)
C2 race file chip
175/55/15's on 15x7 Ronal Turbo's

And he used to give my old 94 with a SRI, Neuspeed 268 cam, chip, exhaust, estimated at around 125whp a run for it's money.

PS:
Today, I finally got my B&G's installed with my 17x8" RS's with 245/40/17's. 
I'm 22.5" FTG all around, had my good friend that does AutoX and track racing tune the dampers/spring length/yadaydayda, and it hooks like crazy. It just hooks. It's amazing. Yoko Advan tires = :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
I can actually take off in first, spin, shift into 2nd, chirp, and have very good traction, chirp into 3rd, have full traction. It's amazing. I love it. It rides wonderful, too. 
I also finally installed a shift light - it turns on at 7800 RPM. I hid it in the centre vents, so it doesn't look cheesy. It's better than guessing when to shift, or looking at the tacho.


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## 2.slowduo (Sep 17, 2008)

According to tha euro tuner article. 
All you need to make the mk4 neuspeed sc kit work on a mk6 is a mk4 lower mani

So. To me that means the mk6 plastic mani. Will work on an aba

Now. How do I find one cheap since I'm sure they cost a million dollars new

Who will be the first to mk6 mani a mk3??


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Colm you rap out your bbm powered car to 7800? Are you running the wide lobe center 276?


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

2.slowduo said:


> According to tha euro tuner article.
> All you need to make the mk4 neuspeed sc kit work on a mk6 is a mk4 lower mani
> 
> So. To me that means the mk6 plastic mani. Will work on an aba
> ...


I'm guessing that the MK4 lower manifold mounts to the MK6 head easily, but that doesn't necessarily mean that the MK6 manifold will mate up to a MK3/4. 
Junkyards are your best bet. 
The Neuspeed S/C is a great product, wife has one on her MK4 - not bad at all. Around .5 BAR of boost, or 7.5 PSI, Auto trans, goes good. On a MK6 it probably wouldn't be much different, especially since the MK6 2.0 autos are 5 speeds IIRC.



MahTrek=] said:


> Colm you rap out your bbm powered car to 7800? Are you running the wide lobe center 276?


I'm running the 276* WLCA cam, yes. I am very curious to see how it would do to a N/A engine over a regular 276*.. It's definitely 100x better than the 268/260 that came with the kit. 

I revved it up to ~8000 RPM a few times with the cam gear set to -8* before miss shifting and having it go to around 8500, and spinning a bearing. Then I got forged pistons. 

Now I have my shift light set to 7800 RPM for my optimal shift point of 8000. (You should always set your shift light a couple 100 RPM early so you have time to react/shift)


8000 RPM might sound high, but it really isn't if the bottom end can handle it. My chips rev limit is at 8500.. I won't really know what my optimal shift point REALLY is until I get a dyno time set.

:thumbup:


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## aqeel-1994 (Oct 22, 2011)

Hurt said:


> I'm guessing that the MK4 lower manifold mounts to the MK6 head easily, but that doesn't necessarily mean that the MK6 manifold will mate up to a MK3/4.
> Junkyards are your best bet.
> The Neuspeed S/C is a great product, wife has one on her MK4 - not bad at all. Around .5 BAR of boost, or 7.5 PSI, Auto trans, goes good. On a MK6 it probably wouldn't be much different, especially since the MK6 2.0 autos are 5 speeds IIRC.
> 
> ...


Actually, my car is not 5 speed. it is 6 speed AT:screwy: . i know that the mk6 jetta S in USA has 5 speed but here in my country , it is 2.0L 115hp 6 speed AT .

I think this transmission is similar to that in Jetta SEL in USA With AT. 



Happy holiday guys :thumbup:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

No disrespect, but I'm still in the camp that thinks revving these motors that high is not good with these hydro lifter-based heads. 

With the only exception being that, if you had your valve heights machined/set so that the lifters were almost completely compressed (simulating a solid lifter) and you were running better springs than what Techtonics sells. Nothing against TT springs, they are great for street cars, but they would not be my first choice when building a high revving 8v. The 8v valvetrain is heavier than 16v valvetrain (minus lifters, of course), which naturally allows the 16v heads a higher sustained rev limit over 8v heads. Less mass to bounce off the seat. 

I dunno...if it works for you, you must have done something right. I just don't want people thinking 8000+ revs are somewhat normal fare on these heads. On a typical street build, generally speaking, a street cam, with HD dual springs, with a port-flowed head is good for 7000rpms with an over-rev to 7500 to pace you in the right spot for the next gear.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

aqeel-1994 said:


> Actually, my car is not 5 speed. it is 6 speed AT:screwy: . i know that the mk6 jetta S in USA has 5 speed but here in my country , it is 2.0L 115hp 6 speed AT .
> 
> I think this transmission is similar to that in Jetta SEL in USA With AT.
> 
> ...


Even better, I'm sure the 6 speed auto helps with acceleration. If you could get your hands on a Neuspeed charger and a MK4 lower intake manifold you'd have around 135whp and it'd feel great.



911_fan said:


> No disrespect, but I'm still in the camp that thinks revving these motors that high is not good with these hydro lifter-based heads.
> 
> With the only exception being that, if you had your valve heights machined/set so that the lifters were almost completely compressed (simulating a solid lifter) and you were running better springs than what Techtonics sells. Nothing against TT springs, they are great for street cars, but they would not be my first choice when building a high revving 8v. The 8v valvetrain is heavier than 16v valvetrain (minus lifters, of course), which naturally allows the 16v heads a higher sustained rev limit over 8v heads. Less mass to bounce off the seat.
> 
> I dunno...if it works for you, you must have done something right. I just don't want people thinking 8000+ revs are somewhat normal fare on these heads. On a typical street build, generally speaking, a street cam, with HD dual springs, with a port-flowed head is good for 7000rpms with an over-rev to 7500 to pace you in the right spot for the next gear.


I agree,
I'm not entirely sure of what the TT HD springs are really limited to as far as lift, I think they say they're good for up to .450" on their website.. But my track coupe had HD springs, a 298* and saw 8k RPM's plenty of times and was completely fine.
That being said, I'm not entirely sure revving my GT out to 7800 will hurt it. If I wear a hole in a lifter or wear a cam lobe, I will definitely be going solid lifter conversion/16v head swap. But as of right now, my valvetrain is fine IMO. :thumbup:

I agree about taking the street-cam'd engines over 7500 RPM is silly, but it depends on what cam and mods etc.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Hurt said:


> I also finally installed a shift light - it turns on at 7800 RPM. I hid it in the centre vents, so it doesn't look cheesy.


That is actually a VERY good idea. Kudos! :beer:


911_fan said:


> No disrespect, but I'm still in the camp that thinks revving these motors that high is not good with these hydro lifter-based heads.
> 
> With the only exception being that, if you had your valve heights machined/set so that the lifters were almost completely compressed (simulating a solid lifter) and you were running better springs than what Techtonics sells. Nothing against TT springs, they are great for street cars, but they would not be my first choice when building a high revving 8v. The 8v valvetrain is heavier than 16v valvetrain (minus lifters, of course), which naturally allows the 16v heads a higher sustained rev limit over 8v heads. Less mass to bounce off the seat.
> 
> I dunno...if it works for you, you must have done something right. I just don't want people thinking 8000+ revs are somewhat normal fare on these heads. On a typical street build, generally speaking, a street cam, with HD dual springs, with a port-flowed head is good for 7000rpms with an over-rev to 7500 to pace you in the right spot for the next gear.


I do agree. In the drag racing circuit I've seen that it's not good to breach 8000 rpms without a solid lifter setup. And for good reason too. On a hydraulic head, unless you have a torqueless cam above a 288 duration, you're not going to make power above 7500 anyway (95% of the time), at least not enough to justify taking it to 8000 or beyond. And Ferrea or Supertech is the way to go with springs if you're getting serious with a hydraulic setup. :thumbup:


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## MYGTI_MA (May 3, 2010)

Couple quick questions for you gentlemen.

I am doing a 02a with a 02j shift tower/shifter swap and will be aquiring a diesel geek short shifter. Being new to both the transmission and the shifter setup, are there bushings that should get replaced to ensure a long happy life of spirited driving?

Also my research is pointing me in the direction of a LSD. How intense is the install of one? I am thinking Peloquin even though I did see over in AJmustdie's thread that John Stamos said that an OBX could be made to be reliable.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

PBWB said:


> That is actually a VERY good idea. Kudos! :beer:
> F


Thanks, man. 



MYGTI_MA said:


> Couple quick questions for you gentlemen.
> 
> I am doing a 02a with a 02j shift tower/shifter swap and will be aquiring a diesel geek short shifter. Being new to both the transmission and the shifter setup, are there bushings that should get replaced to ensure a long happy life of spirited driving?
> 
> Also my research is pointing me in the direction of a LSD. How intense is the install of one? I am thinking Peloquin even though I did see over in AJmustdie's thread that John Stamos said that an OBX could be made to be reliable.


02a swaps are quite nice for 2.0's. If you're going to have it out of the car, replace everything that you can, buy a shift linkage rebuild kit.

LSD's are basically a MUST if you're going to do a high HP build. Spinning your tires every gear isn't fun. 

Installing an LSD requires some tools and some basic knowledge of how a transmission works and goes together. It's easy to mess up if you don't know what you're doing. 

Here's a DIY: http://www.forums.ncdubs.org/showthread.php?t=13332


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Got rid of the 94' auto today, gave it to my little cousin who needed a good first car on a 50 dollars a week payment plan. :laugh:

Also bought a MK6 GLI - picking it up tomorrow. Score.

Dyno run = soon, hopefully. I spent most of the afternoon testing out different cam-gear settings. I found that the best of the butt-dyno is ~ -4* and shifting at 7500 RPM. :thumbup:


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Hurt said:


> Dyno run = soon, hopefully. I spent most of the afternoon testing out different cam-gear settings. I found that the best of the butt-dyno is ~ -4* and shifting at 7500 RPM. :thumbup:


What cam was that again?


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## MYGTI_MA (May 3, 2010)

Thanks for the info Hurt. Going to be a slow process as money tree out back isn't growing as it should.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

My tree shriveled up after my 2nd child.


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

Hey guys, at what point in the powerband will valves start to float on an ob2 head with stock springs  

i'm wondering because i would like to go with a 268 as opposed to the 268/260. I wonder if there would be a way to negate valve float by staying out of the 6500+ rpm ranges perhaps?

I will source an obd1 german head for port work and decking but in the meantime on a budget, i would like to get the better cam for more smiles per miles


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

The difference between the 268/260* and the 268* is .008" of an inch. Some say its ok, some say its not. It's a risk you take with OBDII springs. Just keep in mind that these are single springs and were never designed for high revving. On a stock head/cam, the torque curve falls flat on its face after 4200 rpms, so there was never a reason for high revving springs. Also, the switch to a single spring was also for better fuel economy...less power wasted to turn the cam. OBDII saw a lot of emission changes that made it more difficult to mod. Only good thing that changed was to a better version of Motronic.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

PBWB said:


> What cam was that again?


The 276 w/114LC



MYGTI_MA said:


> Thanks for the info Hurt. Going to be a slow process as money tree out back isn't growing as it should.


No problem at all.
Give me a few seeds, I could use a money tree.



911_fan said:


> My tree shriveled up after my 2nd child.


:laugh:
Kids are so expensive. 
When my wife was pregnant with our first, I remember going shopping for infant clothing.. I was like :what: They wear it MAYBE 10 times before they grow out of it. Bah. kids. :vampire:



Jh0104 said:


> Hey guys, at what point in the powerband will valves start to float on an ob2 head with stock springs
> 
> i'm wondering because i would like to go with a 268 as opposed to the 268/260. I wonder if there would be a way to negate valve float by staying out of the 6500+ rpm ranges perhaps?
> 
> I will source an obd1 german head for port work and decking but in the meantime on a budget, i would like to get the better cam for more smiles per miles


I wouldn't get a 268* on stock OBD2 springs. I mean, it would probably work for a little, maybe if you keep out of the 6200+ RPM range, but.. I've also heard stories of someone just installing a 268* on stock springs and having it tick non-stop right after the first fire-up. Do it right the first time, get Autotech's 270* cam upgrade kit. It's like 450, comes with HD springs, steel retainers, lifters, cam, etc.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Um...a .440" lift cam on stock dual valve springs (OBDI) is PERFECTLY fine. 
And I would price out Techtonics as well. 

And don't forget a new set of cam followers. And a valve cover gasket. Oh, and a new cam oil seal. Oh yea, and a new upper manifold gasket.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Um...a .440" lift cam on stock dual valve springs (OBDI) is PERFECTLY fine.
> And I would price out Techtonics as well.
> 
> And don't forget a new set of cam followers. And a valve cover gasket. Oh, and a new cam oil seal. Oh yea, and a new upper manifold gasket.


Sorry, typo; and the car he wants to put it in is OBD2.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

I know.


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

911_fan said:


> Um...a .440" lift cam on stock dual valve springs (OBDI) is PERFECTLY fine.
> And I would price out Techtonics as well.
> 
> And don't forget a new set of cam followers. And a valve cover gasket. Oh, and a new cam oil seal. Oh yea, and a new upper manifold gasket.


well lifters is a must, i dont worry so much about intake mani gaskets, i havent in the 100x i removed and replaced uppers and lowers, the valve cover gasket is somewhat fresh. cam seal would be a needed part i imagine at this point in the heads life. 

the reason for the question is simply to figure out where valve float really becomes the issue. i run an autothority chip, the rev limit is about 6800 in 1st and 6500 or so in the rest of the forward gears. if float becomes a real issue above a certain rev then i would assume i could just stay out of that rev range.

my logic is because i wouldnt really gain much about 6500 considering im not running an aftermarket intake manifold. im using pacesetter 4-1's, and a cone filter stuffed to the headlight with metal intake tube to a deramped tb. im thinking my gains would be best up to the 6500 mark. once i acquire a german head i will run an sri and then consider using a 276 at that point, since i will make much more power up top in the powerband. 

any thoughts


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

There is no real god answer here. But my thoughts are this: you can and will feel when the valves start to float. Power will instantly plateau or just drop off.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

And just so we're all on the same page here...

Valve float: when the valve does not stay in contact with the cam lobe.
Valve bounce: when the valve does not stay in contact with the seat upon closure (natural inertia phenomenon).


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## 2.slowduo (Sep 17, 2008)

My car is chipped and has a tt 268 cam along with lots of head work and a deck job

And on the dyno only made power to 5700 after that it fell off so there really is no need to rev an aba over 6k with that cam


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

2.slowduo said:


> My car is chipped and has a tt 268 cam along with lots of head work and a deck job
> 
> And on the dyno only made power to 5700 after that it fell off so there really is no need to rev an aba over 6k with that cam


thank you :thumbup:


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## MYGTI_MA (May 3, 2010)

Hurt said:


> MK6 2.0's are pretty much doomed ATM. The only upgades available are a tune, exhaust, and an intake.. That's good for like 100whp, maybe 105.. I don't know if the MK6's can use the older 8v cams (MK3/Mk4), and I don't know the valve springs' specifications, so.. suggesting a cam is difficult.


Easy upgrade is to not buy a Jetta S but a Jetta SE or a GLI (still a 2.0 but with a T)

Perhaps later this winter if any of you MA guys are bored I would love some help with the wiring of a few of my gauges and such. Beer and food exchanged for knowledge and help.


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

2.slowduo said:


> My car is chipped and has a tt 268 cam along with lots of head work and a deck job
> 
> And on the dyno only made power to 5700 after that it fell off so there really is no need to rev an aba over 6k with that cam


you know, now that i think about it. my friend was running an sri and 276 with p&p head and he would pull clear up to 7k and he could rev out to 7600. seems strange that your power dropped so early.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Sri would have a huge part of that, not to mention the extra degrees of valve overlap and lift.


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

911_fan said:


> Sri would have a huge part of that, not to mention the extra degrees of valve overlap and lift.


good point :beer:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

So yea, here is my stock vs. worked head, 276*, and SRI (and some other thingies). You can see how the torque drop off changes.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Jh0104 said:


> you know, now that i think about it. my friend was running an sri and 276 with p&p head and he would pull clear up to 7k and he could rev out to 7600. seems strange that your power dropped so early.


A 268* isn't exactly a high-revving profile. I'd say the majority of tests I've seen with 268's are peak power at around 5700-6000. 

If I were you, I'd just stay stock cam and save the money until you get an OBD1 head. No point in buying 2 different cams, 2 different sets of lifters, etc.. 

The SRI+276* will really transform your 8v.. The USRT piece is amazing. I wish I could run mine on my GT - but I don't have the room.. 

Just hold off for a while until you get the OBD1 head, or HD springs in your obd2 head.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Found my old 135whp build's timeslip - 
R/T - .246
60FT - 2.30
330 - 6.40
1/8 - 9.69
MPH - 76.01
1000 - 8.915
1/4 - 14.9
MPH - 96.24

**** launch and 60ft because I had UL's at the time, with 175/55/15's on Buggatis, I believe.. Weight reduction includes: Euro rebars, euro bumpers, 1/8th tank of gas mod, yadayaya. Not much. Weighed in at 2600lbs, I believe. I can't remember, this was nearly a year ago. :screwy:

Can't wait to bring it to the track how it is now.. :thumbup:


Anyone have any idea who sells a billet pulley for a Lysholm kit? I'm looking for maybe 2 or 3 more PSI. 

Also, to the turbo guys:

Do any of you run CRY02 or Nitrous Oxide intercooler spray bars? I've heard good and bad things about them.. Thanks. :thumbup:


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

Hurt said:


> A 268* isn't exactly a high-revving profile. I'd say the majority of tests I've seen with 268's are peak power at around 5700-6000.
> 
> If I were you, I'd just stay stock cam and save the money until you get an OBD1 head. No point in buying 2 different cams, 2 different sets of lifters, etc..
> 
> ...



yea i'm starting to think i'll just wait for income tax time and do it the way i want to end up, instead of selling old parts and upgrading twice. me and my buddy got everything for his head together last night, obd1 german, portmatched, estas 272, sri with vr6 tb. it should definitely rip. hes also running pacesetter 4-1's to a low restriction exhaust.

im thinking ill be doing all the same but run a 276 and save up for an sri.

my car is good for the kind of autox i do, but my buddy runs street modified fwd class and has a lot of fun beating up on civic and ms3's.

also - thanks for that dyno graph, that shows exactly what i wanted to know! :beer:

picture:











:thumbup::thumbup:


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## CROWN (Jun 14, 2007)

here's a flow comparison i did with a svi sri and stock mk3 8v intake mani. There's a thread on it somewhere from like 3 years ago.










here's my dyno graph from 2009. ****ty picture I know but can see curve. svi sri, very nice worked head. 4-1 header and full exhaust, I think it was a tt chip I forgot to long ago. and 276 cam if i rembmer right. 131whp


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Jh0104 said:


> yea i'm starting to think i'll just wait for income tax time and do it the way i want to end up, instead of selling old parts and upgrading twice.
> 
> im thinking ill be doing all the same but run a 276 and save up for an sri.
> 
> ...


That's the better idea IMO. Here's a dyno of a 268* cam'd 8v to get an idea of the power it'd make:








Here's a 276, with just HD springs, a header back exhaust with a cat, but no chip. With a chip, it would be at around 127whp, peak, if I had to guess.








It's pretty amazing how different the 276 is compared to the little 268! The powerband flattens out. The peak isn't a peak anymore. It's a wonderful cam.

The 272* or 276* TT cams are wonderful for street and Auto-X. You don't lose any low end TQ, in fact, you would gain a decent amount with the camgear advanced a few degrees (Thank Travis for this wonderful piece of information).
I really love the 276. I have had several cars with it. Great power, great TQ. If you have an SRI, everything changes. The TQ curve, HP curve, the HP peak, TQ peak, yadyadadaday. 
Not to mention the amazing sound they produce.


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## OC80 (Aug 9, 2010)

Colm, can I come over sometime this week for you to look at my 8v? it isnt running properly.

thanks!

err, not hating, just a suggestion: you should make the mods numerical. like.. 1 - exhaust 2 - intake 3 - cam 4 - chip! It would help i bet. :thumbup::heart:


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## 2.slowduo (Sep 17, 2008)

Jh0104 said:


> yea i'm starting to think i'll just wait for income tax time and do it the way i want to end up, instead of selling old parts and upgrading twice. me and my buddy got everything for his head together last night, obd1 german, portmatched, estas 272, sri with vr6 tb. it should definitely rip. hes also running pacesetter 4-1's to a low restriction exhaust.
> 
> im thinking ill be doing all the same but run a 276 and save up for an sri.
> 
> ...


I autoCrossed my jetta for 3 years. I was amazed at what it would beat stock, never beat by any thing newer except a r32. Once I put the built head on I really made my buddy mad who had a tt
I ran in fsp. Illegally of course since there are no internal mods allowed in that class but no body ever questioned the car. Even with the lumpy idle. I was still way slower than the fsp champ in a sentra Ser on R comps but 2nd in class 2 years in a row in a much lower hp car made me happy. (Ser stock 140hp me 115 stock hp ) and on street tires no less


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## OC80 (Aug 9, 2010)

2.slowduo said:


> I autoCrossed my jetta for 3 years. I was amazed at what it would beat stock, never beat by any thing newer except a r32. Once I put the built head on I really made my buddy mad who had a tt
> I ran in fsp. Illegally of course since there are no internal mods allowed in that class but no body ever questioned the car. Even with the lumpy idle. I was still way slower than the fsp champ in a sentra Ser on R comps but 2nd in class 2 years in a row in a much lower hp car made me happy. (Ser stock 140hp me 115 stock hp ) and on street tires no less


ive beat SE-R sentras too, but i have mods.. 276, worked head sri, custom 3" ramair CAI (just made today!), 2.5" exhaust and header, no cat, the works.. with a corrado g60 trans Colm swapped in for me, I beat most anything except heavily modded street/race cars like a modded k20 or something. i beat honda b18c gsrs and b16 si's. but my car has weight reduction and i weigh 1/2 of what the average guy ways so.. lol
just got my coils dialed in just right! 22" ftg all around, great traction and ride!!! i love it.









thanks again Colm, the settings you gave me were perfect.. can i come over tomorrow? let me know.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

No such thing as a ram air CAI.


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## 2.slowduo (Sep 17, 2008)

911_fan said:


> No such thing as a ram air CAI.


He said he just made it today

Maybe it's a new invention:laugh:

Car looks good though


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

No such thing. I experimented with various forms of ram air induction years ago with my SRI and a boost vacuum gauge. The effect does not exist below 110mph. Even then, the results are less than 2% above that speed...which is illegal anyway. Lol.


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

2.slowduo said:


> I autoCrossed my jetta for 3 years. I was amazed at what it would beat stock, never beat by any thing newer except a r32. Once I put the built head on I really made my buddy mad who had a tt
> I ran in fsp. Illegally of course since there are no internal mods allowed in that class but no body ever questioned the car. Even with the lumpy idle. I was still way slower than the fsp champ in a sentra Ser on R comps but 2nd in class 2 years in a row in a much lower hp car made me happy. (Ser stock 140hp me 115 stock hp ) and on street tires no less


nice dude :thumbup:


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

911_fan said:


> No such thing. I experimented with various forms of ram air induction years ago with my SRI and a boost vacuum gauge. The effect does not exist below 110mph. Even then, the results are less than 2% above that speed...which is illegal anyway. Lol.


my friend has one of those carbino or carbon airbox tubes with piping to the front lower bumper hole above the lip. not sure of the gains but it seems to work good. didnt realize there is no ram air affect on the intake charge below 110mph though! lol :beer:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Unless air is being forced into a sealed intake, there will be no boosting effect from a ram air set up. The most it will provide would be improved throttle response to 0 vacuum at hiway speeds. 

The ram air hoods are a gimmick. There are only three high pressure zones at the front of a vehicle; the lower valance, the leading edge of the hood, and the cowl area. In order for a scoop to have any effect in the center of a hood, it needs to be up in the air stream, which is a significant, blinding height.


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## 96GOLFman (Mar 1, 2012)

*Re: Best head gasket*

Hey guys its about time to do a new head gasket for my car I just wanted some opinons from you guys on what to get something that is better than oem maybe raise compressions ideas parts and thoughts are all appricated so lets hear em p.s. its a 96 obd2 golf 2.slow with hollow cat and swiss air box



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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

96GOLFman said:


> Hey guys its about time to do a new head gasket for my car I just wanted some opinons from you guys on what to get something that is better than oem maybe raise compressions ideas parts and thoughts are all appricated so lets hear em p.s. its a 96 obd2 golf 2.slow with hollow cat and swiss air box
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


Buy the 90mm headgasket from BFI, it ups compression by half a point (0.5). It'll add a few hp for what little money it costs over a stock headgasket.


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## 96GOLFman (Mar 1, 2012)

Will that make any noticable differance

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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Raising your 10:1 compression to 10.5:1 will net you approximately a .3% gain. So on a 115hp engine, your gain is .345hp. So no, you would not feel it. Mind, this is excluding the fact that you effectively lost hp running a hollowed out cat.


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## 96GOLFman (Mar 1, 2012)

Its a straight pipe from 44dd not I just cleaned out my cat 

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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

96GOLFman said:


> Hey guys its about time to do a new head gasket for my car I just wanted some opinons from you guys on what to get something that is better than oem maybe raise compressions ideas parts and thoughts are all appricated so lets hear em p.s. its a 96 obd2 golf 2.slow with *hollow cat* and swiss air box
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


Just an FYI...hollowed cat and test pipe are two different things.


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## 96GOLFman (Mar 1, 2012)

I know sorry about that but anyways is that .5 more compression gonna do anything at all more sound diferent curves anything? How Will it affect when I put in my german obd1 built head with a 298 cam in it

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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

96GOLFman said:


> I know sorry about that but anyways is that .5 more compression gonna do anything at all more sound diferent curves anything? How Will it affect when I put in my german obd1 built head with a 298 cam in it
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


it may alter the curve a little, but not in any way you'd notice..
Yes, you WILL notice a big difference when you put a 298* cam in. The 90mm headgasket is more of a cheap easy mod than a HUGE performance mod. It's better than stock. It's cheap as stock. So why not?
But a word of advice: Wait and build everything all at once. Don't bother buying two different headgaskets for two different heads.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> The most it will provide would be improved throttle response to 0 vacuum at hiway speeds.
> 
> The ram air hoods are a gimmick.


I think starting at 0 vacuum is a gain, and so is added throttle response IMHO. 

The ram air hoods like Pontiac put on the Trans Am's do work, I mean, in theory... The air has to travel less, it just goes in the hood scoop into the filter and straight to the TB with no bends.

I think what Jessi meant was an intake that sits down near a vent.

Most "ram air" is a gimmick, I agree with that, but there are some that help/work.. Like the shaker hoods that came on older muscle cars and what not. They help. I have a friend with a ITB 3.6l V6 camaro with a custom Cowl Induction hood and a sealed fiberglass box with an airfilter molded to it, and it's definitely better than running nothing.
Again, this is just my opinion, and my opinion might be wrong.
If I am in the wrong, correct me, please.

PS: having a billet pulley made for my GT! 25 PSI here I come!

Also looking into a solid lifter swap.. If anyone has any info on that, I'd appreciate it, I've never done a conversion before.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

There was a company I was looking into years ago that offered a solid lifter that dropped into a hydro head. I read mixed reviews on it. One of the negatives was it was a pain to set up the height initially. But you didn't have to do all the head work for them to work. They just plopped right in.


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

i read somewhere that for every CFM of flow you get from the head through porting and polishing you gain 1.1hp. people were raising cfm on an obd1 head by 20 points and gaining around 22hp. now these are guys running hillclimb hybrids. they are running a lot of 16v bottoms with aba tops and vise versa. guys are running 13:1 and 14:1 compression on big cams making 170-190whp na. I think big gains are possible in an aba and 140hp shouldnt be the benchmark as long as you do lots of headwork and run big compression. the hillclimb guys run 12.5:1 16v bottom, aba top on pump gas with 276's. they were saying you can run high compression on pump gas but you need a cam that can bleed off pressure at idle...

anyways, my buddy has a 1.8 bottom end and 2 extra obd2 head and one ported and polished german obd1. we are thinking of doing the swap and running a 288*. we just need to figure out the IM shaft issue and i think thats about it for the swap. we can run a head spacer and get 12.5:1 comp. the hill climb guys swear by the high comp swaps, as long as you run a really good flow matched head with cut valves or oversized valves, sri, header and all the basic mods. just machining the valve set easily gets 5cfm from such an easy mod. ill try and pull up their information for you. 

we are hoping that we should make at least 150whp on this set up. the guys making 180-190 are running 298 or larger cam profiles in a carbuerated setup on race fuel with 14:1 comp. :beer:


edit - link as promised:

http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?202798-8v-cylinder-head-porting-with-flow-test-results&


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## 96GOLFman (Mar 1, 2012)

Would it br possible for a 298 can to idle with the stock manifold temporarly? Till I go usrt sri

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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

96GOLFman said:


> Would it br possible for a 298 can to idle with the stock manifold temporarly? Till I go usrt sri
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


yea it will idle on stock mani no problem, the thing is, with a cam that big, you are definitely going to want to chip to match it. the chip will smooth idle out a bit. i would definitely port match the head to the intake mani with a dremmel at least, you need lots of air with a cam like that. maybe de-ramp your TB too with the dremmel. the car woould definitely rip on a 298* though, no doubt about it. you gotta run an ob1 head with dual valve springs or get hd springs for an obd2 head.

the problem with an obd2 head is that the intake port has a shroud to direct air around the valve. the shroud is there for low end tq and for efficiency. the problem is- it starves the engine at high rpm, which is where a 298* will really shine. :thumbup:

what other mod's do you have? just the swiss cheese box and test pipe? i wouldn't do a 298* unless you understand you will lose tons of low end but after 4k rpm's your car will rip.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Jh0104 said:


> I think big gains are possible in an aba and 140hp shouldnt be the benchmark as long as you do lots of headwork and run big compression.


What most do for NA is the 16V head and ABF pistons for high comp or 9A pistons and diesel crank for stroker. 170hp is no problem with a hybrid swap. All the options are here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1535079-lets-get-a-ABA-16v-Parts-List-FAQ-Thread-going


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

zero. said:


> What most do for NA is the 16V head and ABF pistons for high comp or 9A pistons and diesel crank for stroker. 170hp is no problem with a hybrid swap. All the options are here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1535079-lets-get-a-ABA-16v-Parts-List-FAQ-Thread-going


yea but i'd rather go 8v crossflow top on the 1.8 16v bottom end, good for 13:1 right off the bat :thumbup:


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

911_fan said:


> There was a company I was looking into years ago that offered a solid lifter that dropped into a hydro head. I read mixed reviews on it. One of the negatives was it was a pain to set up the height initially. But you didn't have to do all the head work for them to work. They just plopped right in.


Yea, I don't recall ever hearing of a company like that....Then again I don't know of ANY solid lifter head that doesn't need to be shimmed after an initial installation.

My race head is an obd1 ABA head that is solid lifter converted. TT sells the kit. My sponsor (SCCH) did the work. It is a pain to shim it because you have to assemble and disassemble the valvetrain, but luckily I didn't have to do the initial shimming. When I had it in my all motor jetta I was pullin on all motor VRs at h2o in 2011.

My ABA solid lifter flow numbers

I've since pulled it along with a lot of other mods, but it has around 12k miles on it now and needs to be re-shimmed. I'll be doing that after i finish building the fancy pants all motor VR shindig.

I will say though that I ran a victor reinz gasket with the center shim removed (the thickest layer) and there indeed was a noticeable difference, but that was probably because I installed the solid lifter head at the same time. I ended up having some issues, and subsequently removed the gasket and went back to the standard 4 layer gasket and noticed a drop in power. Looking back I wouldn't recommend it because when you remove that thickest layer, you also take out the guide pin hole (rear drivers side of the motor is the pin) for where the gasket is supposed to sit. When that happens, if the gasket is even off by a smidge, you risk mis-aligning the oil pressure galleys with the gasket, which will cause a flashing oil pressure light at lower rpms.


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## 96GOLFman (Mar 1, 2012)

Yea I know itll be a lug under 4000 but after itll scream I've been waiting to get the cam is there anything I really need besides the hd springs

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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

96GOLFman said:


> Yea I know itll be a lug under 4000 but after itll scream I've been waiting to get the cam is there anything I really need besides the hd springs
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


No that's all you need for it to run, but you will need way more work to take advantage of a cam that aggressive. You really should just go with a 276* in my opinion. :beer:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

On a stock port head, especially with the stock manifold, I would not bother with anything above a 276. I had a lot of head work done on my old motor, plus a custom designed SRI,, and it was sluggish under 3500rpms. (Really needed a taller geared trans to combat that.) I really could not imagine how useless a 298 would drive with just a test pipe and a swished air box. Lol.

Higher compression becomes more useful with larger overlapping cam profiles, as it allows the cam to regain lost dynamic compression. At this point, even a 1/2 point increase in compression becomes noticeable at lower rpms. But with a stock cam with negative overlap? Nah.


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## 96GOLFman (Mar 1, 2012)

The cam is the first step then itbs then header then standalone

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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

911_fan said:


> I really could not imagine how useless a 298 would drive with just a test pipe and a swished air box.



Yea, I can only image how daily driving it would be, lol. :laugh:


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## 96GOLFman (Mar 1, 2012)

Its not like im just geting the cam and calling it a day im planning to build an all motor 2.0 for fun its not a dailyed car so I can just have fun with it

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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

You must love wasting money. Lol. For what you would spend on 40 usable N/A whp, you could have 70 usable hp with just a turbo setup.


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## 96GOLFman (Mar 1, 2012)

Na is more fun I will probably eventually go with a turbo but after my all motor eun I've already got parts for a turbo every thing I have stocked up or plan to do is all high rpm the turbo I have wont spool till around 3500 maybe eventually ill do both

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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

NA is not more fun than turbo. Three words: manual boost controller.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

turbo and a close ratio gear box.....mmmmmm


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## 96GOLFman (Mar 1, 2012)

To each their own I love carbs with cams its a nasty sound and its just cool nothing against turbos after my na run its gonna be turbo with full standalone

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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> NA is not more fun than turbo.


 Learned this the expensive way.
But I still loved my old coupe. 160 naturally aspirated WHP. Easy to fix and work on. Less parts than a turbo car. Less issues. Less oil consumption. No worries about getting the oil too hot because of the turbo on track days. Yadaydadyadya.
Yet, still, I think for a budget street/race car, Turbos are generally the cheapest way to make power.



[email protected] said:


> turbo and a close ratio gear box.....mmmmmm


Stock 02J with high F/D = spin, spin, spin, traction, topped out :laugh:


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Learned this the expensive way.
> But I still loved my old coupe. 160 naturally aspirated WHP. Easy to fix and work on. Less parts than a turbo car. Less issues. Less oil consumption. No worries about getting the oil too hot because of the turbo on track days. Yadaydadyadya.
> Yet, still, I think for a budget street/race car, Turbos are generally the cheapest way to make power.
> 
> ...


yea the 4.24 is a bitch :laugh:

But i was running to to 7500 which was fine...i later did some fancy gear swapping and a 3.38 final and almost got it right


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Hurt said:


> 160 naturally aspirated WHP.


160whp = about 195bhp.

I wanna see this dyno sheet.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> yea the 4.24 is a bitch :laugh:
> 
> But i was running to to 7500 which was fine...i later did some fancy gear swapping and a 3.38 final and almost got it right


Mine was the 3.37 F/D, like yours, and I didn't care for it. But hell I don't care for turbo 8v's anyway.. my BBM 6 speed 02A beats it by a long shot. Wish I could install a taller F/D in there, like a 3.65 or 3.37.. But, that's not that important. What's important is more boost (in the mail) and dyno runs ASAP to get a custom cam gear setting for the best overall consistent power. Also hoping I can have a custom cam made, if need be, with the characteristics of a 276 114lca but with more duration and lift. :screwy:



911_fan said:


> 160whp = about 195bhp.
> 
> I wanna see this dyno sheet.


It's on Page 1, T. 159.9 whp, 02A trans, last run of the day.. Was messing with camgear settings.. Hit 160 even one run, but alas, can't find that slip. That car wasn't streetable. Period. Too little low end TQ, too loud (70mm straight pipe, lol) and way too unsafe. A 1800 lb shell with super stiff suspension doesn't feel safe.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Wasting your time with a bigger cam. You can only expect so much out of these heads, and the 276 is a big as you want to run anyway. 

You want more, then you need 8 more valves. Plain and simple.


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

911_fan said:


> Wasting your time with a bigger cam. You can only expect so much out of these heads, and the 276 is a big as you want to run anyway.
> 
> You want more, then you need 8 more valves. Plain and simple.


or 12 more, just to be safe :laugh:

i would like to build up a spare motor for all race application. since my friend has enough spare parts, i think we are going to go the route of 8v aba head on top of 16v 1.8 bottom end. run a head spacer for a good 12.5:1 compression. run a 288 or 298* cam and all the other goodies and extreme head work to go with it... im thinking he could hit at least 170 - 180whp without going to carbs. carbs or itb's should get you to the 190 -200 whp 8v thats totally un-streetable. in all my research so far, i havent seen an 8v in any combo or amount of work that hits over 200whp. ive seen a couple of 16v combos that get well into the 250whp range in all out builds. the best part is, if you pop rods or blow 8v heads up, spares are so cheap it doesnt matter :laugh:


on a side note, that same friend (b5blazing) is trading some kid an amp and sub that he got for free for an sri- which will be going into my build  so i'm one more step closer to my 276, sri, ported obd1 set up that i would like to daily drive. :beer:


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

911_fan said:


> 160whp = about 195bhp.
> 
> I wanna see this dyno sheet.


 You act like it's so hard.....Just because you didn't get there doesn't mean it's impossible or even near that. Sure it's a LOT of modifying, but you just have to know what you're doing.  This makes me wish I would have dyno'd the jetta when it was in it's prime.


911_fan said:


> Wasting your time with a bigger cam. You can only expect so much out of these heads, and the 276 is a big as you want to run anyway.
> 
> You want more, then you need 8 more valves. Plain and simple.


My interpretation is it sounds like you're only saying that because you reached the end of YOUR limit. My head flows more than a 16v head. Plain and simple.  Stop trying to tell people what YOU would do.....There is NO FACT in saying that there's no point in any duration cam larger than a 276. There just isn't. It's purely a matter of YOUR opinion. You used to be better at actually educating people on here, but now you've turned into this grumpy old stubborn man type. What gives?

Look everyone, it's all where you want the powerband really. My project mk2 goal is 550whp on E85 at no more than 30psi. That car is plenty light and should have more than enough torque for me to pass a Porsche 997 in 5th gear when I need it to. So I had a one off 288* cam for my particular setup.

My .02 :beer:


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

PBWB said:


> You act like it's so hard.....Just because you didn't get there doesn't mean it's impossible or even near that. Sure it's a LOT of modifying, but you just have to know what you're doing.  This makes me wish I would have dyno'd the jetta when it was in it's prime.
> 
> My interpretation is it sounds like you're only saying that because you reached the end of YOUR limit. My head flows more than a 16v head. Plain and simple.  Stop trying to tell people what YOU would do.....There is NO FACT in saying that there's no point in any duration cam larger than a 276. There just isn't. It's purely a matter of YOUR opinion. You used to be better at actually educating people on here, but now you've turned into this grumpy old stubborn man type. What gives?
> 
> ...


ladies and gentlemen.........apple is back:facepalm:


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> turbo and a close ratio gear box.....mmmmmm


For the track maybe , but for the street give me a tall r&p and a wide ratio box everytime.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

911_fan said:


> NA is not more fun than turbo. Three words: manual boost controller.


Turbo is definitely LOTS more fun than N/A but as far as your three words go... try these 4 instead: standalone + electronic boost control.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

PBWB said:


> There is NO FACT in saying that there's no point in any duration cam larger than a 276.


I ran a 280/278 cat cam with his old SVi welding SRI. Bunch of headwork, 4:1 race header, and all standard bolt ons. Even when I was getting the headwork done Schimmel told me to just do a VR swap. Easily could have bought a stage 2 or 3 turbo kit with the money I spent. Was still slow and power was in upper RPM range. Starting from a stop it was probably slower than a stock ABA. It is opinion, but on a streetable car it really isn't worth it unless you plan on beating the hell out of it at 6-7k+ to get the power out of your mods or just got money to waste. I think he's just trying to save others from disappointment of an NA 8V build. If someone's prepared to throw thousands away for very little power, then go for it. I personally would never do it again and just go FI or VR swap.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Prof315 said:


> For the track maybe , but for the street give me a tall r&p and a wide ratio box everytime.


that i agree with to an extent. its a fine balance that i finally got right with a 3.38r&p and a mk4 3rd and 4th


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

PBWB said:


> You act like it's so hard.....Just because you didn't get there doesn't mean it's impossible or even near that. Sure it's a LOT of modifying, but you just have to know what you're doing.  This makes me wish I would have dyno'd the jetta when it was in it's prime.
> 
> My interpretation is it sounds like you're only saying that because you reached the end of YOUR limit. My head flows more than a 16v head. Plain and simple.  Stop trying to tell people what YOU would do.....There is NO FACT in saying that there's no point in any duration cam larger than a 276. There just isn't. It's purely a matter of YOUR opinion. You used to be better at actually educating people on here, but now you've turned into this grumpy old stubborn man type. What gives?
> 
> ...


Looks like someone needs a big glass of chill the **** out. 

My limit was reached for one reason: priorities.I had to choose one...my car or my family. Guess which won? 
Had I done three simple, yet expensive mods, I would have been up another 15-20whp. and still would have been street legal. And ya, my head flowed more than a ported 16v head as well. Big deal. 

My comment to Colm was regarding his supercharged 8v. A bigger cam is not the answer. Creating a custom cam grind is costly. A 16v he'd swap will give him more room to grow.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> that i agree with to an extent. its a fine balance that i finally got right with a 3.38r&p and a mk4 3rd and 4th


The combo that works best for me is 3.38 r&p, 1.8T 1st and 2nd and G60 3rd-5th although I would love a tdi .75 5th.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> ladies and gentlemen.........apple is back:facepalm:


 [Skrillex Voice] You know you love it. [/Skrillex Voice]


zero. said:


> I ran a 280/278 cat cam with his old SVi welding SRI. Bunch of headwork, 4:1 race header, and all standard bolt ons. Even when I was getting the headwork done Schimmel told me to just do a VR swap. Easily could have bought a stage 2 or 3 turbo kit with the money I spent. Was still slow and power was in upper RPM range. Starting from a stop it was probably slower than a stock ABA. It is opinion, but on a streetable car it really isn't worth it unless you plan on beating the hell out of it at 6-7k+ to get the power out of your mods or just got money to waste. I think he's just trying to save others from disappointment of an NA 8V build. If someone's prepared to throw thousands away for very little power, then go for it. I personally would never do it again and just go FI or VR swap.


Oh I'm not doubting that you could have easily done this or done that, my apologies if I left that interpretation out there. As Travis said, I think you could easily double the amount of hp per dollar spent by going with forced induction of some kind. On the other hand where you say your setup was probably slower than a stock ABA from a stop, there's also the consideration that if you were really wanting to get in it you'd be launching from a higher RPM than a stock setup as well (like them there Honda boys). That and you would have the obvious advantage of up top rapery (if that ever was a word).

96GOLFman obviously wants to see what he can do with an all motor ABA setup. More power to him IMO, I'd love to see it. It would be a tough road, and those who have come close enough to do the research necessary knows it's not cheap to get there. But a handful of them have went 12s in the quarter mile, and that was YEARS ago (as in around a decade). The real professor Nate Romero could give great advice, as he's built and driven some of the quickest n/a VW cars in country, using all sorts of VW engines.

You say "throw away thousands away for very little power"....Most people that do end up going turbo don't go over 300whp anyway, and I'd arguably go lower than that. It pretty much ends up being whether you want to be somewhat unique and throw thousands away for very little power, or whether you want to be mainstream and throw away thousands of dollars for little power. Either way you can expect many headaches.

Besides, having the fastest 8v is like being king sh*t on turd island.

opcorn:


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

911_fan said:


> Looks like someone needs a big glass of chill the **** out.
> 
> My limit was reached for one reason: priorities.I had to choose one...my car or my family. Guess which won?
> Had I done three simple, yet expensive mods, I would have been up another 15-20whp. and still would have been street legal. And ya, my head flowed more than a ported 16v head as well. Big deal.
> ...


Chill out? Man I'm cooler than a polar bear's toenails....

Wait, your head flowed over 240cfm? Because you do know that's what a ported 16v can yield right? I'd definitely like to see that flow chart, unless of course it's hangin out with the Unicorn Charlie on Candy Mountain. :bs:

Big deal? It kind of is, especially when you're telling people to go find 8 more valves when they don't need to. Not only that, but everyone knows it's impressive and cool when an 8v comes knocking and puts a superior platform to rest. That's why some of us like 96GOLFman are in the 8v game.


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## 96GOLFman (Mar 1, 2012)

Amen I may not be as much of a god as colm and all them but I know what im doing I know its exspensive I know if I went turbo it would be easier but I want to be able to eat vrs and 1.8ts with all motor it wont be easy but idc its what my goal and hobby is making slow and reliable fast and questionable more fun to me like I said I will eventually go turbo cause I already have all I need for that but I want to get a nice all motor car first and thanks for the support guys

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

PBWB said:


> Chill out? Man I'm cooler than a polar bear's toenails....
> 
> Wait, your head flowed over 240cfm? Because you do know that's what a ported 16v can yield right? I'd definitely like to see that flow chart, unless of course it's hangin out with the Unicorn Charlie on Candy Mountain. :bs:
> 
> Big deal? It kind of is, especially when you're telling people to go find 8 more valves when they don't need to. Not only that, but everyone knows it's impressive and cool when an 8v comes knocking and puts a superior platform to rest. That's why some of us like 96GOLFman are in the 8v game.


come on apple you're nit-picking...ported can mean anything. 240 is an arbituary number that wont apply to all 16v port jobs and you know that.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Loud noises


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## TravisTheD (Apr 15, 2011)

i love lamp


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## 2.slowduo (Sep 17, 2008)

funny stuff:laugh:

lots of money can make anything fast

but if I had lots of money I'd have a vrt, or a 1.8t rabbit,or hell a gt2

I love my 8v cuz its cheap reliable and great on gas, when I surprise sombody who thinks its slow, I do smile cuz it is

the thing is vw never meant this engine to make 200,300,400 hp. not even 160

so if you are there, any where. good for you 

have fun, leave the douche baggery to the mk4+ guys:beer:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Wasting your time with a bigger cam. You can only expect so much out of these heads, and the 276 is a big as you want to run anyway.
> 
> You want more, then you need 8 more valves. Plain and simple.


Blasphemy, T!
I really don't want to switch to a 16v head. But yeah, I've been told that too.. and I don't think I'll do any better than the 276 114lca with a custom cam..
I think I'll wait til my custom pulley gets here and see how it does at around 23 PSI steady, 25 peaking, hopefully..
Another option for more power would be to make a SRI work, somehow, someway. The MK4 manifold is ported like crazy, but.. the SRI is just heaps better. 

I dumped so much money into this car, I don't ever see myself selling it. Just upgrading, and upgrading. I'm pretty darn happy with it as it is, now that my tires and suspension can handle the power. No more spinning in 2nd unless the tires are cold. The next upgrade will be a better cylinder head, though, for sure. I mean that's all that's left to possibly do besides nitrous. 


And uh, guys, I don't want this to turn into a pissing match thread.

HP is just a number. 
I really don't appreciate it when people come into this thread swinging their dyno sheets around like they're somehow superior to the rest of us because they made more power, making snide comments, and just being generally disrespectful. It isn't cool, it isn't funny. If it doesn't stop I will have to ask a mod to have the offender blocked from this thread.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

96GOLFman said:


> Amen I may not be as much of a god as colm and all them but I know what im doing I know its exspensive I know if I went turbo it would be easier but I want to be able to eat vrs and 1.8ts with all motor it wont be easy but idc its what my goal and hobby is making slow and reliable fast and questionable more fun to me like I said I will eventually go turbo cause I already have all I need for that but I want to get a nice all motor car first and thanks for the support guys
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


I'm not a God! Lol
I'm just another enthusiast. 
You're very welcome.


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## 96GOLFman (Mar 1, 2012)

So if I make a mod list would you shoot me a expected power number?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

96GOLFman said:


> So if I make a mod list would you shoot me a expected power number?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


Absoloutely, but remember that I'm not a professional. I have experience, but I could be off as much as 5-10whp. Guessing HP numbers is difficult. 
Take this to PM's, it's easier and doesn't clutter up the thread as much. :thumbup:


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## 96GOLFman (Mar 1, 2012)

Ight thanks

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

PBWB said:


> Chill out? Man I'm cooler than a polar bear's toenails....
> 
> Wait, your head flowed over 240cfm? Because you do know that's what a ported 16v can yield right? I'd definitely like to see that flow chart, unless of course it's hangin out with the Unicorn Charlie on Candy Mountain. :bs:


PBWB, your first post in this thread was to aggravate someone else. You obviously have nothing nice to say, with your insults and generally rude posts. 

Please be mature and leave this thread and don't come back, until you can actually help and not just nitpick with people for no reason. 

This is a thread for people that want to learn, and that want to give back to the 2litre community.

Like I said, please, just go. :thumbup:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Be gone from whence you came!


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

911_fan said:


> Be gone from whence you came!


lol :laugh:


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

fyi, estas 272 cam in a ported obd1 head idles like its stock... very strange bc we've used a 268 that idled like sh*t. this cam idles great and pulls hard.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Probably has a 112* or 113* LSA. The 268* has a 110* LSA.


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## BFalk628 (Dec 30, 2012)

OP, I've read this whole thread great write up and very informative but do you have any videos of the car from the dyno sheets? I'm pretty interested in seeing an all motor aba with that kind of power:thumbup:


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## srgtlord (Jun 4, 2010)

Another upgrade most people will overlook is the ability to swap in a 1.8 camshaft for a few more HP. If I remember correctly the 2.0 camshaft was designed with emissions in mind.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

There is no oem 1.8 cam that is an upgrade to either ABA cam.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> come on apple you're nit-picking...ported can mean anything. 240 is an arbituary number that wont apply to all 16v port jobs and you know that.


The man said ported, end of story. Prove it. That's all! I'd almost pull money out to see an ABA head flow over 200cfm let alone 240cfm. So on the assumption that 240cfm is just an arbitrary number as you say, would it be more fair to say 210cfm? Because I highly doubt he can show me a flow chart that says his head flowed that amount either. But I'll wait for the proof to show, just as he asked for it recently with the all motor build. What makes it cool and quaint for him to ask for proof and me not to? Nothing would be the correct answer.

Just so everyone is on the same page this is a very frequently referenced page showing flow rates on various cylinder heads from a bunch of automobile manufacturers:

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm#VW



Hurt said:


> And uh, guys, I don't want this to turn into a pissing match thread.
> 
> HP is just a number.
> I really don't appreciate it when people come into this thread swinging their dyno sheets around like they're somehow superior to the rest of us because they made more power, making snide comments, and just being generally disrespectful. It isn't cool, it isn't funny. If it doesn't stop I will have to ask a mod to have the offender blocked from this thread.


I guess you could ask 911_fan, but wait, he's not a moderator anymore. 



Hurt said:


> PBWB, your first post in this thread was to aggravate someone else. You obviously have nothing nice to say, with your insults and generally rude posts.
> 
> Please be mature and leave this thread and don't come back, until you can actually help and not just nitpick with people for no reason.
> 
> ...


Errr, no thanks. So I'm not enlightening anyone? Reading back I've given my experiences with revving past 8k while still on a hydraulic setup. I also provided input regarding solid lifter conversions on the ABA head. That's funny how you give me sh*t but when tdogg74 (now 911_fan aka Travis) cuts down the guy aspiring to build an all motor setup and he cuts dude down, there's no recourse.
"You must love wasting money. Lol."
"NA is not more fun than turbo."
That's not nitpicking of sorts? Let him have his fun, who cares if he ends up dumping $10k into an all motor setup and hates it afterward? The problem is that because Travis can't or won't build his own again (for whatever reason), he tries to get others to do what he would do if he were in their shoes.....Whether you guys do it or not is up to you. He might as well change his screen name to the puppeteer. :laugh: 

My first "recent" post was to the guy with the overseas mk6 jetta, so you must be mistaken. Just because Travis has a following doesn't mean I can't put my .02 in right along with everyone else. Am I violating forum rules? If so please reference me to them so I might be able to abide. I'm not nitpicking, I'm challenging what some are saying to be "true", and separating that truth from opinion or interpretation. There's most certainly education in that, whether you're sensitive to my methodology or not.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

I'll be completely honest...I cannot, for the life of me, remember what I said to piss you off. 

/shrug


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

PBWB said:


> who cares if he ends up dumping $10k into an all motor setup and hates it afterward?


I don't think anyone cares if someone else wastes their own money. Thinking he's going to eat VR's and 1.8T's is a joke unless he's building a non-streetable race car that only runs on race gas. For anyone that's got money to blow for an NA build, I will sell this unicorn to the highest bidder:


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

911_fan said:


> I'll be completely honest...I cannot, for the life of me, remember what I said to piss you off.
> 
> /shrug


As usual I'll be completely honest as well. I just don't like how you give the advice you give....Those of us who have been around for a few days (or over a decade) know that you have a lot of technical knowledge. I just didn't agree with how you went about giving some advice. I'm over it, and have been. Bro hugs for all. I don't like to hold grudges (for those who care). I'm a military man, and I come off as abrasive at times. It's just who I am. And me, just like everyone upset with me, will just have to pull a ticket and get in line. opcorn:

So with the intent of sharing the wealth, why do you not recommend Colm try out a larger duration cam? Is there someone who has done it? If I remember correctly JBetz didn't have a huge cam in his BBM car, but I think it could have it's advantages.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Just don't thing going with an even larger cam is going to net the same gain as upping boost by going with a different size pulled. That FI-specific 276 is big enough. In my opinion, anyway. If we were talking about an NA build, I wouldn't say a peep. But for an FI motor? Just increase boost pressure. Much cheaper and easier to buy a pulley than design and custom grind your own camshaft. Wouldn't you agree?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

zero. said:


> I don't think anyone cares if someone else wastes their own money. Thinking he's going to eat VR's and 1.8T's is a joke unless he's building a non-streetable race car that only runs on race gas. For anyone that's got money to blow for an NA build, I will sell this unicorn to the highest bidder:


You better get a lot for that gem. It's a one-off to my own specs. 

And FWIW, my 150hp 1.8t took only a $26 mod to raise my boost pressure to the safe max 15psi on the stock tune without the ecu freaking out and hitting limp mode.The difference is night and day obviously. I wonder what I could mod and NA motor with $26? Three cans of Krylon spray paint and a roll of blue painters tape for racing stripes? Lol


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

911_fan said:


> You better get a lot for that gem. It's a one-off to my own specs.
> 
> And FWIW, my 150hp 1.8t took only a $26 mod to raise my boost pressure to the safe max 15psi on the stock tune without the ecu freaking out and hitting limp mode.The difference is night and day obviously. I wonder what I could mod and NA motor with $26? Three cans of Krylon spray paint and a roll of blue painters tape for racing stripes? Lol


Isn't stock 14psi?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Nope. A little over 8. At least on my KO3 motor.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

911_fan said:


> Just don't thing going with an even larger cam is going to net the same gain as upping boost by going with a different size pulled. That FI-specific 276 is big enough. In my opinion, anyway. If we were talking about an NA build, I wouldn't say a peep. But for an FI motor? Just increase boost pressure. Much cheaper and easier to buy a pulley than design and custom grind your own camshaft. Wouldn't you agree?


Yea I do. lol I keep forgetting that he has the wide lobe version. Trying to juggle too many people's setups in my head....:laugh: I wouldn't spend the money on a one off cam (unless it's for a race car, which is why I did for my solid lifter head), but if a company decided to cut a grind I'd be curious what it would do with the similar specs as the wide lobe 276 but with more duration.


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## 96GOLFman (Mar 1, 2012)

If a vr has 200 stock and a 1.8t has 150 a 2.0 csn beat those those on all motor it wouldnt be easy but it can be done

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

A 150hp/155tq 1.8t can easily be beaten by a decently built 2.0. It would kill it on the top end because of the head work and cam profile needed for the necessary power. Stock 1.8ts are all low end torque, then nothing after 4500. Been there, done that. BUT...just a simple tune brings that figure up to 205hp/230tq. No NA 2.0 is touching that. 

12v VR's are 172hp. They dyno around 155whp stock. Not so easy because of their torque curve and their killer third gear pull. But then, who owns a stock VR? Chip intake and exhaust brings you up to 165ish whp.

24v VR's? 200hp stock with the dual plenum intake manifold for a silly torque curve. Yea...a boat load of motor work in a way lighter chassis than a MKIII. 

This is all, of course, my worthless opinion.


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

96GOLFman said:


> If a vr has 200 stock and a 1.8t has 150 a 2.0 csn beat those those on all motor it wouldnt be easy but it can be done
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


if your talking about a 12v vr6 motor, then you are talking about 170ish hp. i have seen aba's that can pull a vr with no problem. its really hard to compare the 2 when you are talking about modding. most people with vr6's dont go farther than the intake, exhaust and maybe a tune setup. i have seen an aba running an sri, 276, and all the supporting goodies that was pretty lightweight pull a few vr6 setups with at least an intake and exhaust. 

now, if your talking a vr6 running cams, full exhaust, tuned, nice intake setup and maybe an sri, itll be a much different story.

remember that a jetta gl with no options will weigh in at around 2500lbs. a jetta glx with vr6 will weigh in around 2800lbs. thats a pretty large difference in weight. not to mention the extra weight hanging over the front axle, increasing understeer. :thumbup:

vr6 guys can keep their great sounding exhaust, i don't like understeering and extra weight in a "fun" fwd car. :beer:


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

zero. said:


> I don't think anyone cares if someone else wastes their own money. Thinking he's going to eat VR's and 1.8T's is a joke unless he's building a non-streetable race car that only runs on race gas. For anyone that's got money to blow for an NA build, I will sell this unicorn to the highest bidder:




that thing is a beautiful piece.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Yea.


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## 96GOLFman (Mar 1, 2012)

911 fan your opinion is valued I think its great but I know typically a car with a turbo or 2 extra cylinders will leave me but im just going for that wtf look when I pull on em

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

96GOLFman said:


> If a vr has 200 stock and a 1.8t has 150 a 2.0 csn beat those those on all motor it wouldnt be easy but it can be done
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


Of course it can be done, but it's a lot to take on (unless you're in a mk1). 12v VRs are 172hp claimed. 24v VRs are 204hp IIRC. But yea, it can be done, but it'll be a hell of a long road to get there. I did by having my solid lifter head (and everything that's in/on it), an SRI, 2Y trans with 3.94 R&P, 80% diff shim kit, c2 stg 2 chip, EIP 2.5" straight through exhaust, ensuring there are no "steps" in the airflow path from one component to the next, and a ported exhaust manifold. I'm sure I'm forgetting a bunch of little things like pullies and other almost non-pertinent goodies. The cars I've pulled on were either stock or mildly-to-moderately modded. If I had to guess, based on acceleration logs I'd say the car was in the low/mid 14s range full interior.

EDIT: A stock 12v runs 15.2 in the quarter (advertised). It doesn't take much to get in the 13s.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

911_fan said:


> This is all, of course, my worthless opinion.


Oh stop ya big baby. I'll PM you an e-beer. :heart:


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

911_fan said:


> Yea.




very nice, im jealous. ill post a pic of the funny little sri we just got from trading a sub and an amp. it bolts to the lower runners and it has like 1" of runners with a little tubular plenum. itll probably work good for port velocity.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

PBWB said:


> Isn't stock 14psi?


11psi on jetta/gti iirc 8~9psi on passnots


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## OC80 (Aug 9, 2010)

Jh0104 said:


> i have seen aba's that can pull a vr with no problem. i have seen an aba running an sri, 276, and all the supporting goodies that was pretty lightweight pull a few vr6 setups with at least an intake and exhaust.
> 
> now, if your talking a vr6 running cams, full exhaust, tuned, nice intake setup and maybe an sri, itll be a much different story.
> 
> remember that a jetta gl with no options will weigh in at around 2500lbs. a jetta glx with vr6 will weigh in around 2800lbs. thats a pretty large difference in weight. not to mention the extra weight hanging over the front axle, increasing understeer. :thumbup:


 my 2.0 has a 276 cam, a usrt intake, full 2.5 exhaust, p&p german head, c2 tune, and little stuff, and i beat VR6's. i'm a petite girl though so maybe the weight difference has a advantage lol
colm helped me with most of the work and i really like my mk3's.. his GT is a rocket, he poops on my 20v swap GTi that i paid lots of cash for, and i'm running pretty good stuff in the gti.. 

stock 2.0 basic modded VR6
in terms of fun i mean umpkin: :vampire:


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## TravisTheD (Apr 15, 2011)

i wanna be part of the mk3 8v club lol how do i join lol:laugh:

how did u do that in ur sig


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

I once beat a Porsche with my 2.0. True story.

He didn't know I was racing him though. And he was on the phone. 

But ask any racer, any real racer; It doesn't matter if you win by an inch or a mile. A win is a win.


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## gtdrifter94 (May 7, 2012)

i dont know much on the motors, but couldnt you swap out the springs from the OBDII motor for the OBDI springs? or just swap the head?


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

gtdrifter94 said:


> i dont know much on the motors, but couldnt you swap out the springs from the OBDII motor for the OBDI springs? or just swap the head?


You can swap springs, but you'll do more work going that route. It's just easier to swap heads and do whatever mods you want to the obd1 head prior to installation (milled, ported/polished, valve seals, etc).


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## TravisTheD (Apr 15, 2011)

911_fan said:


> I once beat a Porsche with my 2.0. True story.
> 
> He didn't know I was racing him though. And he was on the phone.
> 
> But ask any racer, any real racer; It doesn't matter if you win by an inch or a mile. A win is a win.




how many times have u watched the fast and the furious lol:laugh:


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

mk3jetta-man said:


> how many times have u watched the fast and the furious lol:laugh:


Not as much as I have. He actually says "Winning's winning." I don't know whether to be proud or ashamed right now.


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## TravisTheD (Apr 15, 2011)

PBWB said:


> Not as much as I have. He actually says "Winning's winning." I don't know whether to be proud or ashamed right now.




its ok iv seen it alot of times too i own all of them lol and took the time to watch them in order with tokyo drift as the last one cuz it is lol.....:laugh:

edit: back on topic lol.....how big are the intake valves in the aba engine


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

39.5mm


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

Ben watching this thread for a while now... you guys just confirmed I'm never going to make the 2.0 fast lol

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

PMLyf said:


> Ben watching this thread for a while now... you guys just confirmed I'm never going to make the 2.0 fast lol
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


Fast is relative. It generally takes a turbo or a bit of dollhairs.


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

PMLyf said:


> Ben watching this thread for a while now... you guys just confirmed I'm never going to make the 2.0 fast lol
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


fast is one thing. a gallardo is fast. an ariel atom is fast.

you can make the 2.0 quick and quick can be just as fun as fast.

whats more fun to you? driving a slow car fast or driving a fast car slow?


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## TravisTheD (Apr 15, 2011)

love the chuck and larry reference and thanks


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## OC80 (Aug 9, 2010)

its all relative.. like Einstein taught us.. 
my mk3 2.0 does 0-60 in 6's and it has beaten plenty of vrs.. for a little engine meant for just running around town and getting grocerys and stuff it isnt too bad.. its good on gas and a good dd.


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

Jh0104 said:


> fast is one thing. a gallardo is fast. an ariel atom is fast.
> 
> you can make the 2.0 quick and quick can be just as fun as fast.
> 
> whats more fun to you? driving a slow car fast or driving a fast car slow?


I'd rather drive my stock car fast until I cab afford to build a engine with real potential.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

OC80 said:


> its all relative.. like Einstein taught us..


That's the smartest thing I've ever heard you say, Jess. :laugh:

Got my custom pulley on the way. Should hold a steady 1.5 bar or ~23PSI. Hopefully, this will be enough. I'm not going to bother getting a better cam than the 276* 114lca - I doubt it would be worth it. I'm pretty much all set with this build, it's fast enough for me! Next step would be some sort of direct port nitrous injection, if I really feel the need to go faster.


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## 96GOLFman (Mar 1, 2012)

What about water meth?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

96GOLFman said:


> What about water meth?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


i've heard good and bad things about water/meth injection. I will be staying away from it. It's more of a turbo thing so you can scramble boost if you want to go faster for a little while IMO


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## 96GOLFman (Mar 1, 2012)

My dads old supercharged colbalt had water meth and it did great things lowered intake and egt temps devils own is the best kit imo

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> That's the smartest thing I've ever heard you say, Jess. :laugh:
> 
> Got my custom pulley on the way. Should hold a steady 1.5 bar or ~23PSI. Hopefully, this will be enough. I'm not going to bother getting a better cam than the 276* 114lca - I doubt it would be worth it. I'm pretty much all set with this build, it's fast enough for me! Next step would be some sort of direct port nitrous injection, if I really feel the need to go faster.












YOU'SA SPEAKING MY LANGUAGE!

Lemme help u with that


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

96GOLFman said:


> My dads old supercharged colbalt had water meth and it did great things lowered intake and egt temps devils own is the best kit imo
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


My EGT's are fine, everything is really good as far as temps go. My oil temps rarely go above normal, unless I go for a really spirited few mile run. My coolant temps do fine with just my samco hoses and my wonderful Neuspeed fan switch. It's a wonderful set up. Just ordered this bad boy, too:








5.7 qt capacity. 3 trap door baffles. I can use my Neuspeed windage tray with it. I'm excited. I'm also considering buying a Mishimoto VR6 radiator from a buddy and making it work on my 8v.



[email protected] said:


> YOU'SA SPEAKING MY LANGUAGE!
> 
> Lemme help u with that


I'm considering it. Do any companies actually make direct port systems specifically for the 2.0 8v? I don't want to go with a dry set up. Definitely not. It will have to be a wet set up at the least. I'm thinking a 50hp shot should be plenty of power for gears 4 5 and 6, without breaking traction. :thumbup:


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Hurt said:


> i've heard good and bad things about water/meth injection. I will be staying away from it. It's more of a turbo thing so you can scramble boost if you want to go faster for a little while IMO


What bad things have you heard? It's great for a lot of things, it's cliche, but like everything if you've done your math correctly and know how to set it up/program it, it will do wonderful things. It's even beneficial on n/a setups for keeping heat soak down (among others), which is why I'm throwing a single nozzle kit on the VR.


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

after paint










extending maf wires



















test fit



















lol










only issue i have is throttle cable. the kid we got it from said he was running aba throttle cable.. its too short, lol. so i'm picking up a vr cable today. it runss on the aba cable but the way its rigged, i only get part throttle. also hood clearance was horrible, im guessing because of my motor mount set up. we had to beat the hood a little bit.


my friends sri with vr throttle body





























rear beam issues being resolved on his golf










james (b5blazing) poking his head up










our buddy the sanchez helping out


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Just want to share some 2.0L wackiness with everyone. In preperation for my impending EFR turbo install (and to get rid of a really bad 1-2 synchro hub ) I went ahead and installed my 3.38 R&P, wide ratio, 02A/02J mutt box this weekend..... and the car pulls HARDER than it did with the (3.68 closer ratio) 02A that was in it. No turbo yet, just a dead stock 60K 97 ABA in a 92 Corrado with 205/45R16 tires.

Apparently the 3.30 1st and 1.94 2nd when combined with the 3.38 final utilize the motor's torque more efficiently. Now I realize that any 1/4mile times attempted would almost certainly be worse but as a daily driver the car is much much easier to merge into traffic.


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Prof315 said:


> Just want to share some 2.0L wackiness with everyone. In preperation for my impending EFR turbo install (and to get rid of a really bad 1-2 synchro hub ) I went ahead and installed my 3.38 R&P, wide ratio, 02A/02J mutt box this weekend..... and the car pulls HARDER than it did with the (3.68 closer ratio) 02A that was in it. No turbo yet, just a dead stock 60K 97 ABA in a 92 Corrado with 205/45R16 tires.
> 
> Apparently the 3.30 1st and 1.94 2nd when combined with the 3.38 final utilize the motor's torque more efficiently. Now I realize that any 1/4mile times attempted would almost certainly be worse but as a daily driver the car is much much easier to merge into traffic.


I've had my spare trans (stock 2Y close ratio) in until this past Saturday when I got my main trans back from a friend. It's a modified 2Y with 3.94 R&P, stock 1-3, standard mk3 8v 4th, and mk1 .71 5th gear. The 3.67 R&P definitely pulls better throughout the range, but the 3.94 is undoubtedly faster for my application....so I can relate.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

PBWB said:


> What bad things have you heard? It's great for a lot of things, it's cliche, but like everything if you've done your math correctly and know how to set it up/program it, it will do wonderful things. It's even beneficial on n/a setups for keeping heat soak down (among others), which is why I'm throwing a single nozzle kit on the VR.


I've heard it runs out fast, and it's expensive. My friend had it on his STi, and one time he didn't realize his tank was low. Toasted the engine. 

I'm just not for Meth/water injection.. or that C02 stuff (which I hear does wonders for IAT's)

If anything is going to be injected into my engine, it's going to be a 50 or 75hp shot of nitrous. I have a wet EFI kit around somewhere. Not entirely sure if I want to use it or not.. Kind of afraid, but I have BBM forged pistons so I shouldn't have to worry about anything.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

You're worried about WMI running out fast (which it doesn't, and can be substituted with plain old washer fluid), and yet you are seriously contemplating nitrous oxide?

Seriously scratching my head over this one, duder. Lol.


----------



## 96GOLFman (Mar 1, 2012)

Water meth is a great thing for any porformance car

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> You're worried about WMI running out fast (which it doesn't, and can be substituted with plain old washer fluid), and yet you are seriously contemplating nitrous oxide?
> 
> Seriously scratching my head over this one, duder. Lol.


I really don't know much at all about Meth. I didn't know that could be done. My buddie's STi's tank only lasted around 40 miles if he drove it hard. I guess, compared to Nitrous, maybe it IS cheaper.. But I've had personal experiences with Nitrous, and they've always been pretty good. 200 shot on a 85 Camaro V6 = :laugh:
I don't want to mess up anything. I think my GT is pretty much end game-fast, which sucks, sort of.. Still, I've started modding the GLI (got H&R UL's).. So  

I'm going to have some sort of new project soon.. I'm thinking a VR6 caddy. Maybe even a 2.0 Fox. Idk.. Maybe another Supra (I don't think my wife would approve) But I really enjoy my GT how it is, to be honest. I'm hoping for ~275whp. Here's to hoping. :beer:


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

911_fan said:


> You're worried about WMI running out fast (which it doesn't, *and can be substituted with plain old washer fluid*), and yet you are seriously contemplating nitrous oxide?
> 
> Seriously scratching my head over this one, duder. Lol.


^^^^THIS. Colm, you just need to do more research. I'm willing to bet your Subi friend was on a map that was reliant on the water/meth setup and/or running a map with more than liberal timing on pump gas. If not that, more than likely it was something outside of the water/meth equation that caused the failure. Even then, there are ways to implement a fail-safe map that reverts to a less aggressive timing map (much like limp mode on 1.8Ts) should knock be picked up by the sensor.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

Thanks for this thread, totally helped me! 
Did all the work by myself and the car is a completely different car now, even if its not "fast" by today's standards!
I got:
TT exhaust
TT chip
TT 260* camshaft

and I used all of the DIY's in this thread to install it all on my dd. Thanks again all of you guys! :thumbup::thumbup:


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

Has anyone here tried putting a short shift on these little 2.0s? Saw one on GAP, wondering if they make the shifting feel better at all

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> I've heard it runs out fast, and it's expensive. My friend had it on his STi, and one time he didn't realize his tank was low. Toasted the engine.
> 
> I'm just not for Meth/water injection.. or that C02 stuff (which I hear does wonders for IAT's)
> 
> If anything is going to be injected into my engine, it's going to be a 50 or 75hp shot of nitrous. I have a wet EFI kit around somewhere. Not entirely sure if I want to use it or not.. Kind of afraid, but I have BBM forged pistons so I shouldn't have to worry about anything.


1 gallon would last me on average a week and a half and i was running much bigger nozzles than you would need. 

regular washer fluid is _ok _as a replacement but if you're going to make your own 50/50 mix with distilled water and HEET (yellow bottles) it works out to $6/gallon...

Colm, you are misinformed. there are many failsafes and warning you can incorporate in the system.

If your friend popped his motor then he tuned to the very edge available for the IAT drop and octane increase with no failsafes.

Nitrous IS MUCH more risky.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

PMLyf said:


> Has anyone here tried putting a short shift on these little 2.0s? Saw one on GAP, wondering if they make the shifting feel better at all
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


if you TRULY what to up your shifting feel/travel...

this this: http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_34&products_id=1763


is what you WANT>:beer:


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> if you TRULY what to up your shifting feel/travel...
> 
> this this: http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_34&products_id=1763
> 
> ...


Ordered. Thanks! After driving a few friends cars I realized my shifter is so sloppy

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

PMLyf said:


> Ordered. Thanks! After driving a few friends cars I realized my shifter is so sloppy
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


not a problem:beer:

Thank you!


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

The USRT kit is fabulous in conjunction with a trans mounted short shift lever. 
35% is about as 'short' as you want to go before you start grinding syncros. 020's don't like it at like 50% short shift rate.


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

911_fan said:


> The USRT kit is fabulous in conjunction with a trans mounted short shift lever.
> 35% is about as 'short' as you want to go before you start grinding syncros. 020's don't like it at like 50% short shift rate.


How much of a difference is it? 

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

The USRT kit? If you install it right, night and day.


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> if you TRULY what to up your shifting feel/travel...
> 
> this this: http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_34&products_id=1763
> 
> ...




great kit, i would love to pick one up! :thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> The USRT kit is fabulous in conjunction with a trans mounted short shift lever.
> 35% is about as 'short' as you want to go before you start grinding syncros. 020's don't like it at like 50% short shift rate.


This.

I had a USRT on one of my old 2.0/020 MK3's. It also came with the NEUSPEED short shift kit, which has one piece mounted at the firewall and one at the shift lever. It was great set to 30% reduction. Never tried 50%, thought that was crazy for daily driving without missing gears and whatnot. 
The USRT linkage kit is top notch, it's amazing quality and the driving feel is increased 10 fold. Try Auto-Xing a stock linkage 2.0 compared to a USRT smartshift - night and day. So much more precise, so much more accurate. Better feel by 1000000000%. Wonderful 2.0 mod. 

Definetely, 100%, the best transmission mod you can do for a 2.0 for improved driveability and more fun at the same time. 100x better than just a short shifter lever (which is only front and back reduction, by the way).

USRT = :thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Jh0104 said:


> great kit, i would love to pick one up! :thumbup:


Well PM me


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

Hurt said:


> This.
> 
> I had a USRT on one of my old 2.0/020 MK3's. It also came with the NEUSPEED short shift kit, which has one piece mounted at the firewall and one at the shift lever. It was great set to 30% reduction. Never tried 50%, thought that was crazy for daily driving without missing gears and whatnot.
> The USRT linkage kit is top notch, it's amazing quality and the driving feel is increased 10 fold. Try Auto-Xing a stock linkage 2.0 compared to a USRT smartshift - night and day. So much more precise, so much more accurate. Better feel by 1000000000%. Wonderful 2.0 mod.
> ...


Does the transmission click into gear like most other cars? Or will it still have a bit of movement of the shifter going left to right? My shifter is just like the guys video on the page that sells that kit. I may order two, one for my wife if it will help her shift better too. 

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

PMLyf said:


> Has anyone here tried putting a short shift on these little 2.0s? Saw one on GAP, wondering if they make the shifting feel better at all
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


 I've had the USRT smart shift on my current jetta for a few years now. ANYONE with an 020 needs one.



911_fan said:


> The USRT kit is fabulous in conjunction with a trans mounted short shift lever.
> 35% is about as 'short' as you want to go before you start grinding syncros. 020's don't like it at like 50% short shift rate.


I can attest to this. I had it set on the 50% reduction and even when I adjusted the heim joints perfectly the trans still hung up in every gear, and trying to bang gears was nearly impossible. Needless to say that only lasted a week before I switched back to the 30% reduction (which by feel alone is plenty). I have the TT short throw arm on mine IIRC.



PMLyf said:


> How much of a difference is it?
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


Even if the shifter box itself is worn (most are these days), it still makes such a significant difference that it justifies any doubt or money coming out of the wallet. I simply cannot stress how good this system is..... 



PMLyf said:


> Does the transmission click into gear like most other cars? Or will it still have a bit of movement of the shifter going left to right? My shifter is just like the guys video on the page that sells that kit. I may order two, one for my wife if it will help her shift better too.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


It varies....if your shift box is worn, you'll still get SOME side to side movement while in gear, but trust me, you'll never look back.

I just got my trans back (as stated in one of these threads). I ended up shaving all of the syncros down in a pattern. Shave 2, keep 3 all the way around until the last few. By that point, you'll end up shaving 2 and keeping 2 on the last iteration. Keep in mind these were inspected, used syncros, not new (although new ones can be had for around $17 each). 020s are by far the best for high rpm shifting, but there still are issues when trying to bang through gears. Driving around normally there is absolutely NO grinding what so ever. It actually is more notchy and solid engaging, yet smooth and positive. Reminds me of the super cars of the 90s. Wanna bang a gear? It'll go in like a home sick puppy through the front door. Long term testing of this DOES indicate that you'll wear syncros faster (dependent on type and frequency of abuse of course), but for those like myself who have a spare trans and consider it worth the mod, it's an even BETTER addition to the USRT supermegageniussmartpack shift kit, or whatever you (Q) and Scott are calling it now-a-days. 

I would only suggest this for those with more hardcore n/a setups, or those DIY'ers out there.

And if you have an o2a/o2j, eff the dumb sh*t and get to shaving, cause you're nearly hopeless without it. You'll never miss a shift again.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

PMLyf said:


> Does the transmission click into gear like most other cars? Or will it still have a bit of movement of the shifter going left to right? My shifter is just like the guys video on the page that sells that kit. I may order two, one for my wife if it will help her shift better too.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


As everyone has already stated, you will love the kit. Side to side play will still exist if your shifter box bushing is worn out but it will still be lessened overall. :thumbup:


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

PBWB said:


> I
> 
> I would only suggest this for those with more hardcore n/a setups, or those DIY'ers out there.


I've done three engine swaps. A trans swap and pulled 3 engines. Think I can handle a little shift linkage =)

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> As everyone has already stated, you will love the kit. Side to side play will still exist if your shifter box bushing is worn out but it will still be lessened overall. :thumbup:


Just to add on so there's no confusion...that's why i suggested the GeniusKit...takes care of the shifterbox bushing as well.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

PMLyf said:


> I've done three engine swaps. A trans swap and pulled 3 engines. Think I can handle a little shift linkage =)
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


Well yea, the linkage is cake.....I was referring to the shaving of syncros...020s have loads more ridiculous tolerances so you need to know what you're doing (have the manual) if you were to take that on.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

PMLyf said:


> I've done three engine swaps. A trans swap and pulled 3 engines. Think I can handle a little shift linkage =)
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


you have PM.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

is it worth upgrading from my TT non-cam chip to a C2 cam file chip? (i have a tt 260 cam)

for 150 bucks I don't think it would really make much of a difference.. 
But I wish the idle was a little higher because at stop lights even with such a dinky cam it vibrates like crazy lol


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

LöW N SLö said:


> is it worth upgrading from my TT non-cam chip to a C2 cam file chip? (i have a tt 260 cam)
> 
> for 150 bucks I don't think it would really make much of a difference..
> But I wish the idle was a little higher because at stop lights even with such a dinky cam it vibrates like crazy lol


its always good to optimize your tune for the mods you have...

TT's chip has been historically mild so C2/United i feel would be better but you're only going to gain but so much.

$150...not really anything else u could spend that money on that would be better for an n/a 8v.:beer:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

LöW N SLö said:


> is it worth upgrading from my TT non-cam chip to a C2 cam file chip? (i have a tt 260 cam)
> 
> for 150 bucks I don't think it would really make much of a difference..
> But I wish the idle was a little higher because at stop lights even with such a dinky cam it vibrates like crazy lol


Talk to TT. They offer a reflash for around 30 dollars. Get it tuned for your cam. 
Spend the extra 100 dollars or whatever left over and save for something else? You say your car is OBD2 - I would save money to get a bigger cam, maybe get HD valve springs or a OBD1 dual valve spring head (necessary!), or a SRI. Maybe some other mods, like transmission modifications or whatever you feel you need.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

I replaced the TT chip I had sent back for multiple re flashes to my motor with one of Atwood's 1st round stage 2 chips for BFI. 

The difference was comparable to like I was never even running a chip in the first place.

So to go from a non cam file TT chip to a stage 2 (cam file) chip from UM would be substantially noticeable. Mostly in your low end torque response.


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

how about a carb set up?





























all for $700.


will be learning how to tune carbs with (b5blazing) he is scooping these up and selling his shiny sri. which by the way, he said is no where near as good as the race craft sri he had last year. it still worked great but didnt flow as good as the race craft with bbm fuel rail.

we will probably end up putting this set up on a 1.8 bottom end that we stripped down last night, getting it ready for the IM shaft job to get it to run with a 8v head. should be around 12.5:1 with thicker headgasket. we are looking for around 170-180whp with this setup on a 288 or 298 cam profile. we are trying to stay pump gas as well, 93 octane beast. :beer:

any input ?


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Jh0104 said:


> will be learning how to tune carbs with (b5blazing) he is scooping these up and selling his shiny sri. which by the way, he said is no where near as good as the race craft sri he had last year. it still worked great but didnt flow as good as the race craft with bbm fuel rail.
> 
> we will probably end up putting this set up on a 1.8 bottom end that we stripped down last night, getting it ready for the IM shaft job to get it to run with a 8v head. should be around 12.5:1 with thicker headgasket. we are looking for around 170-180whp with this setup on a 288 or 298 cam profile. we are trying to stay pump gas as well, 93 octane beast. :beer:
> 
> any input ?


how much for the SRI?


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> how much for the SRI?


well he's into the sri it for only about $280 including the bfi adapter plate and obd2 vr6 tb. he sold it for $400  :thumbup:

my sri cost a sub and an amp :laugh:

the racecraft was a very unique piece he had last year and the car ran like a raped ape with it and a 276. that was $600 if i remember correctly. supposedly it was like a one off piece flow tuned and all. very nice piece.

my buddy said he knows you personally. hes running a rwd b5 a4 30v with pes gen2 supercharger on it. said you designed the injectors or something when you were working for pes. :thumbup:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

That black "hoonigan" manifold bolted to the lower oem piece is garbage.

Sorry.


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

911_fan said:


> That black "hoonigan" manifold bolted to the lower oem piece is garbage.
> 
> Sorry.


thats just a sticker added to the plenum.

you think the plenum is too small to do anything ?

i only get half throttle right now, im waiting for my vr throttle cable. i noticed a little more part throttle torque lower in the rev range, but i cant report on top end changes.

hey, it was basically free :laugh:

you think itll have any advantages when gasket matched and i use a ported obd1 head?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

I have nothing against the sticker, other than I think it's silly.

Your plenum volume doesn't look to be any more than the stock piece, so no gain there.
The runners are certainly shorter, so your peak hp just moved up the rpms.
But the main issue is that you still use the stock manifold. Air does not like to take corners. This is why all SRI/LRI's are straight shots into the head. 
And lastly, the VR throttle. Are you OBDI? Because it won't work with OBDII.


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

911_fan said:


> And lastly, the VR throttle. Are you OBDI? Because it won't work with OBDII.




the vr tb is on my friends shiny sri. mine uses the stock aba tb.

i was thinking of possibly having the top half welded to the lower runners to eliminate the turns and give me hood clearance. im just not sure it will make that big of a difference because of how small the plenum is. so cost to benefit may not be worth it.

i guess its ok for now... not the best piece in the world but for free its for me. lol :beer:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Your runners would be too short and the plenum probably would not clearance the fuel rail/injectors. 

Plus, there's a lot more involved than just cutting the and welding and hoping for a performance gain.


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

none of you guys have experience with carbs


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Carbs are more of a MKI, maybe MKII thing.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Jh0104 said:


> none of you guys have experience with carbs


a little


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## loeb (Apr 20, 2011)

shouldn't have to be tho. tuning is tuning. and it's. cheaper alternative to TBs. Im running bike carbs on my 97 polo.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Oh, and it won't pass emissions either.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Oh, and it won't pass emissions either.


Nor can you achieve the all around drivability and economy that EFI can give you.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Unless I'm mistaken, you cannot get carbs to work unless you have standalone, correct?


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

Prof315 said:


> Nor can you achieve the all around drivability and economy that EFI can give you.


thats ok, not worried about inspection or emissions on this one. the big hp 8v setups are all carb'd and making 190+ whp. so we figure going with carbs and the most extreme p&p and high compression should get us into that range. just need some advice on tuning them. they are sidedraft webber type carbs, i forget the name of them. fully rebuilt and comes with accessories. 

the build goal at the end is a 9k rpm 180+ whp 8v monster. dry sumped, built bottom end.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Unless I'm mistaken, you cannot get carbs to work unless you have standalone, correct?


They work best with a good standalone crankfire ignition :laugh:


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

911_fan said:


> Unless I'm mistaken, you cannot get carbs to work unless you have standalone, correct?


A friend of mine has a 16v GTI on carbs.....he's running CIS.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

My point is, this is the 2.0 forum. Most of those motors are in smog compliant cars. So....


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> I replaced the TT chip I had sent back for multiple re flashes to my motor with one of Atwood's 1st round stage 2 chips for BFI.
> 
> The difference was comparable to like I was never even running a chip in the first place.
> 
> So to go from a non cam file TT chip to a stage 2 (cam file) chip from UM would be substantially noticeable. Mostly in your low end torque response.


 T, you really had a big change with your C2 chip? I certainly didn't.. When I had my 135whp set up, my TT chip was fine. When I upgraded to C2, I felt a mild difference, but really, not anything big.. Felt maybe a bit peppier from 1k rpm to 2500 or so, city driving, but that's all. No big changes for me.. No power gains that I could notice at WOT, or anything. The only good thing was the 7200 RPM rev cut VS my TT's chip at around 7,000 IIRC. The removal of my CEL for no CAT was nice though. :laugh: 
I really don't like doing business with BFI. In my experience, they kind of.. lie.. and overcharge. They told me my chip would be custom burnt for my higher compression, 276* cam set up. It was a generic stage II cam burn. But whatever, no big deal.. Gone now anywho. 


Got my dyno runs set up for later this week. New pulley is going on tomorrow! Hoping for 275+. :thumbup:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

My 142whp run as on that TT chip. Car felt like it bogged due to timing on the low end. The PEM cured that. Maybe my TT chip just really sucked. Always wished I dyno'd it after the PEM was installed.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

PBWB said:


> A friend of mine has a 16v GTI on carbs.....he's running CIS.


 you talkin bout Wes?


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> My 142whp run as on that TT chip. Car felt like it bogged due to timing on the low end. The PEM cured that. Maybe my TT chip just really sucked. Always wished I dyno'd it after the PEM was installed.


 I think I know what you mean about the low end. When I changed from my TT to C2 chip, I noticed a increase in throttle response, I didn't have to push the pedal as far to get the car to rev to 3k or so. But higher than that I didn't notice much of anything.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

Jh0104 said:


> none of you guys have experience with carbs


 i do.. but.. not good experience.. 

i bought a mk1 rabbit with a 2.0 16v with carbs, and it NEVER ran right.. never started on the first try.. only bought it because it was a good deal and I had money burning a hole in my pocket.. so unreliable.. it really sucked. but when it actually worked? wooooooooooooooooooooooommmmmmmmpppp! intake noise was so awesome but i re sold it for a considerable profit. carbs are a thing of the past, IMO!! but hey I'm not a master or anything, just my 2 pennies.. 

anyway, 

i'm thinking of upgrading to the C2 chip (race file) because i'm getting a cat delete pipe (test pipe?) and, 911_fan says it's worth it. 
Hurt says its not with such a small cam. But I read that 911_fan said he has tested like 4 different cams with the C2 chip and had good results on all of them.. 

i've been reading this thread for a long time, based building my car off it, and you guys have always been the 2 gurus that everyone looks up to and looks to for advice.. hard to tell what to do when you guys disagree though! 

anyone know what I should do as far as a aftermarket intake? I'm thinking MK4 manifold swap but i've never done automotive wiring, so the maf extension is intimidating me. Is it something a novice can do? Could i cut a few wiring harness's from the junkyard where the MAF comes out and just twist and tape the same color wires? 

thanks so much guys, sorry about spelling/grammar, I'm typing this on my phone.


----------



## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

LöW N SLö said:


> so the maf extension is intimidating me. Is it something a novice can do? Could i cut a few wiring harness's from the junkyard where the MAF comes out and just twist and tape the same color wires?/QUOTE]
> 
> doesnt matter color of wires or any of that. i used some extra wire i had laying around, it happened to be the same gauge as the maf wires. just chop the maf off with a good 3 or 4 inches of wire. then one by one just extend the wires. use butt connecters and you should be good. just make sure you obviously match the same color wire on one end to the same color wire at the other end of the oem wire loom. took me 10 minutes. :thumbup:


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

on a side note, im leaning out real bad with the sri and open maf, lol :laugh: 

i gotta relocate the battery, or figure out a nice intake setup to get some good velocity going.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Jh0104 said:


> doesnt matter color of wires or any of that. i used some extra wire i had laying around, it happened to be the same gauge as the maf wires. just chop the maf off with a good 3 or 4 inches of wire. then one by one just extend the wires. use butt connecters and you should be good. just make sure you obviously match the same color wire on one end to the same color wire at the other end of the oem wire loom. took me 10 minutes. :thumbup:


 There are companies who sell MAF extensions for a few bucks....that way you can revert to stock if your setup changes in the future for whatever reason.


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## TravisTheD (Apr 15, 2011)

Jh0104 said:


> LöW N SLö said:
> 
> 
> > so the maf extension is intimidating me. Is it something a novice can do? Could i cut a few wiring harness's from the junkyard where the MAF comes out and just twist and tape the same color wires?/QUOTE]
> ...


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Wire nuts are for the house, NOT the car. :banghead: Do that and every time water gets in that wire nut, it'll corrode a little more. Eventually you'll be troubleshooting your MAF and probably replacing it when it was never bad in the first place. People do stuff like this all the time and then wonder why when it rains or after they clean their engine bay the car acts up. Save yourself the headache and do it right the first time. 

Either solder and heat shrink, or use weatherproof splices that have the gel in them so when you crimp them, the gel squeezes out and seals the connection.


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## TravisTheD (Apr 15, 2011)

true but the orange wire nut is small enough for the right size heat shrink as well ...but u r right the waterproof are the best


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

*Re: What did u do to your Mark3 yesterday?*

Use the heat shrinking butt connectors or just solder the extensions in with heat shrink over the connection.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

blackspyder said:


> just solder the extensions in with heat shrink over the connection.


 This is the best option to go with IMO, I've been using this method for many years and never had any issues :thumbup:


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

yea x2 on the heatshrink stuff. seriously itll only take you 10 minutes to extend the wires, i think there were only 4 connecting the maf. i made mine long enough to reach the other end of the bay so i have lots of room for intake set ups. :thumbup:


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

PBWB said:


> There are companies who sell MAF extensions for a few bucks....that way you can revert to stock if your setup changes in the future for whatever reason.


 could you give me a name/link? 
I think my jetta would feel the gains of this manifold swap, even tho the 260* cam is so small!


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Stupid question below:

Can I run an obd1 head on my obd2 motor. I'm doing a build and the base motor is a 95 aba but its going into and obd2 car.

Plans thus far are a tdi crank, aeg intake. 

If I can reused the obd1 head that would be a bonus as I could save some cash and put it towards bigger valves.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

blackspyder said:


> Stupid question below:
> 
> Can I run an obd1 head on my obd2 motor. I'm doing a build and the base motor is a 95 aba but its going into and obd2 car.
> 
> ...


 Get a nice set of cams. Iirc they have better hardware to handle a decent cam.

Yes the head bolts up the same and everything. Not sure about had gasket though. Someone can chime in on that


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

blackspyder said:


> Stupid question below:
> 
> Can I run an obd1 head on my obd2 motor. I'm doing a build and the base motor is a 95 aba but its going into and obd2 car.
> 
> ...


 Yeah it'll be fine. I have to agree that a nice cam would do more than big valves. A TT 272 or 276 would be sweet and with the ODB1 head, easy! An OBD2 head will need mods to run those cams.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

A cam was already in plans it was just a matter of if I would use an 8v head (which it looks like I will now). Will get quotes on some of the work soon.

Anyone know where I can lay hands on a tdi crank?

sent from mobile internet device.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

A cam was already in plans it was just a matter of if I would use an 8v head (which it looks like I will now). Will get quotes on some of the work soon.

Anyone know where I can lay hands on a tdi crank?

sent from mobile internet device.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

blackspyder said:


> Stupid question below:
> 
> Can I run an obd1 head on my obd2 motor. I'm doing a build and the base motor is a 95 aba but its going into and obd2 car.
> 
> ...


 you need to use the OBD2 intake manifold and throttle body for it to run in the OBD1 car. :wave:


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

LöW N SLö said:


> you need to use the OBD2 intake manifold and throttle body for it to run in the OBD1 car. :wave:


 Huh? No obd1 car here. You mean I need to reuse my current motor's intake (a 97 obd2)

sent from mobile internet device.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

blackspyder said:


> Huh? No obd1 car here. You mean I need to reuse my current motor's intake (a 97 obd2)
> 
> sent from mobile internet device.


 Yeah thats what I meant. If you want to run a OBD1 engine in a OBD2 car you need to use the OBD2 intake and tb and engine harness of course.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Bah! That means i'll have to gasket match that intake and polish it up a little (inside and out). At least I can use the obd1 one once I remove the egr junk from it and put a freeze plug in the hole. Was really hoping to use a better plenum and tb.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

blackspyder said:


> Bah! That means i'll have to gasket match that intake and polish it up a little (inside and out). At least I can use the obd1 one once I remove the egr junk from it and put a freeze plug in the hole. Was really hoping to use a better plenum and tb.
> 
> sent from mobile internet device.


 Use a SRI, perhaps?


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Sri I'm assuming stands for "short ram intake" which looks like a fancied up cold air intake. i'd still have to use my same plenum and intake manifold with which still means gasket matching and polishing. 

Please correct me if I'm wrong. But given what came up in the Google seach that's what I got. And most of it looked like stuff off the AutoZone rice rack or the home depot plumbing section ( for the love of all that is holy, paint your Pvc at least)

sent from mobile internet device.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

blackspyder said:


> Stupid question below:
> 
> Can I run an obd1 head on my obd2 motor. I'm doing a build and the base motor is a 95 aba but its going into and obd2 car.
> 
> ...


 Yep, obd1 heads bolt right up to obd2 cars, and the head gaskets are the same. 



blackspyder said:


> Bah! That means i'll have to gasket match that intake and polish it up a little (inside and out). At least I can use the obd1 one once I remove the egr junk from it and put a freeze plug in the hole. Was really hoping to use a better plenum and tb.
> 
> sent from mobile internet device.


 I'm not understanding. The obd1 what again? You can still use the AEG intake. 



blackspyder said:


> Sri I'm assuming stands for "short ram intake" which looks like a fancied up cold air intake. i'd still have to use my same plenum and intake manifold with which still means gasket matching and polishing.
> 
> Please correct me if I'm wrong. But given what came up in the Google seach that's what I got. And most of it looked like stuff off the AutoZone rice rack or the home depot plumbing section ( for the love of all that is holy, paint your Pvc at least)
> 
> sent from mobile internet device.


 SRI stands for short runner intake, and it replaces your current intake and plenum. When you're done gasket matching the manifold to the head, remove a little more material from the intake ports on the head so there's no "turbulent step" in the airflow path. 

http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_133_3


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

Anyone here with a na and no cat? I busted mine up a while ago on a speed bump. Just replaced with a test pipe and I think my 0-60 got lower. Seems like it pulls a little harder now. But it could be because the cat was crushed and robbing me of power. Not that I'm trying to make the 2.0 fast, just didn't like the exhaust rattles.

Wondering what kind of puree gain or loss comes from removing the cat


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Not much gain. Reason it might feel a little slower off the line is because the cat is the first point of reversion for the exhaust gas pulses. The cat more or less tunes it to a lower torque feel. (To put it bluntly). Removing the cat moves the power further up the power band due to there being no obstruction so far up. 

#simplifiedexplanation


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Not much gain. Reason it might feel a little slower off the line is because the cat is the first point of reversion for the exhaust gas pulses. The cat more or less tunes it to a lower torque feel. (To put it bluntly). Removing the cat moves the power further up the power band due to there being no obstruction so far up.
> 
> #simplifiedexplanation


 That's cool, so no need tip shift at 5000 anymore? It's pretty loud so I keep the rpms low but the resonator and muffler give it a good sound


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

You can still shift at 5k. With the pulse reflection moved to the muffler area, the is more available power at that rpm. Albeit, not very much gain. The stock cat, in good order, flows well enough.


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

Except when it gets smashed lol


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

PBWB said:


> i'm not understanding. The obd1 what again? You can still use the AEG intake


 I was gonna work the obd1 plenum (upper intake manifold) instead of having to take the one off the car and work it. But if the aeg will work I think that would be the better choice.

An SRI IS out of the budget for now. I'm already at 1k in parts before pistons.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

blackspyder said:


> I was gonna work the obd1 plenum (upper intake manifold) instead of having to take the one off the car and work it. But if the aeg will work I think that would be the better choice.
> 
> An SRI IS out of the budget for now. I'm already at 1k in parts before pistons.
> 
> sent from mobile internet device.


 An AEG intake will absolutely work on an OBD1 ABA. Just make sure to use all of the braces or it WILL break.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

It'll be an obd2 motor when its done

sent from mobile internet device.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

blackspyder said:


> It'll be an obd2 motor when its done
> 
> sent from mobile internet device.


 ODB2 management you mean?


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

911_fan said:


> Not much gain. Reason it might feel a little slower off the line is because the cat is the first point of reversion for the exhaust gas pulses. The cat more or less tunes it to a lower torque feel. (To put it bluntly). Removing the cat moves the power further up the power band due to there being no obstruction so far up.
> 
> #simplifiedexplanation


 Yep, when I removed mine I could definitely feel a torque loss. That was back when the jetta was actually quick. Now it's a shiny, polished turd with 191k miles. :laugh:


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Prof315 said:


> ODB2 management you mean?


 Yep

sent from mobile internet device.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

blackspyder said:


> Yep
> 
> sent from mobile internet device.


 So you're swapping an OBD1 head on a OBD2 engine to run OBD2 software, and spending over a grand total on the build? 
What exactly are you buying? 
An SRI of some kind will be the biggest poweradder beside a big (270*+) cam and tune.. 
The cheapest build would be: 
OBD1 head, OBD2 software/block 
270* cam 
TT 2.5" exhaust 
C2 tune 
That's ~600-800 dollars. 
Add a SRI, 1500. And add ~15-20bhp to the final result. The USRT is one of the best mods for the MK3 2.0. I wish I could run one on my GT - but I'm stuck with a ported MK4 manifold.


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

Hurt said:


> I wish I could run one on my GT - but I'm stuck with a ported MK4 manifold.


 
pics or its not true. ic:ic::thumbup:


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

So far the list is as follows:
TT 272 cam $150
Gasket kit $235
Rod main and intermediate shaft bearings 50, 25, 60
Oil pump 100
Bolt kit oem (arp studs)50(280)
Tdi crank is figured at 200+
And I'm figuring on new valve springs (i need to test these but they don't feel evenly sprung by hand) and lifters 

All prices were at TT last night I should be able to lower the cost by shopping around. 

I'm not saying that I won't go the Sri route in the future but right now its off the table

The donor motor had over 250k on it.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Why are you settling on the 272 instead of the 276? Same lift, more duration, more power.


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## c0r3y.af (Oct 8, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Why are you settling on the 272 instead of the 276? Same lift, more duration, more power.


 I agree. They're so similar in price and performance. I'd take the 276 all day. From what I understand most 272 tunes will work with the 276 anyways.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Because I intend to Dd this car over 60 miles a day, keep obd2 engine management, and I like running oe grinds ( I run a 1968 327 remanufactured cam in a 307 with a 350 crank in my 71 Chevy and love its sound and power.

So far no luck on a crank

sent from mobile internet device.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

blackspyder said:


> Because I intend to Dd this car over 60 miles a day, keep obd2 engine management.


 I DD'd a massachusetts smog compliant OBDII with a 288* cam 80 miles a day. What's your point?


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## 96GOLFman (Mar 1, 2012)

Werent you the one telling me anything over a 276 is pointless yet you put a 288 in yours

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Tectonics states that the 276 is not advised for obd2 and that it has a "rough"
Idle (though I'm not sure what defines rough in a 4 cyl I doubt they can run with 1/4 second pauses in between exhaust notes.

911 what kind of mpg are you getting?
sent from mobile internet device.


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## 96GOLFman (Mar 1, 2012)

They arnt recommended for obd2 because it requires stronger valve springs the obd1 valve springs are stronger than obd1 bur if your doing tt springs itll be fine

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

The idle was worse with the 268. When I ran the 276 at stock idle speed, it was fine. I got over 30mpgs with a completely worked motor. I got about 28 MSG with the 288.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Even my solid lifter 288 doesn't really idle rough, just lumpy(ish).....and that's a .460" lift. 276 cams idle fine.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

FMIC...*check* 
1.8t harness...*check* 
1.8t ECU......*check* 
Borg Warner Tubo...*check* 

The addiction is back:banghead:


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> FMIC...*check*
> 1.8t harness...*check*
> 1.8t ECU......*check*
> Borg Warner Tubo...*check*
> ...


 What engine code 1.8t ecu did you go with, I snagged an AWP but I know there are a few different options


Sent from my VS840 4G using Tapatalk 2


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

02vwgolf said:


> What engine code 1.8t ecu did you go with, I snagged an AWP but I know there are a few different options
> 
> 
> Sent from my VS840 4G using Tapatalk 2


 AWP


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> FMIC...*check*
> 1.8t harness...*check*
> 1.8t ECU......*check*
> Borg Warner Tubo...*check*
> ...


 Please tell me it's gonna be in a euro car. None of this is on facebook....


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> FMIC...*check*
> 1.8t harness...*check*
> 1.8t ECU......*check*
> Borg Warner Tubo...*check*
> ...


 Borg Warner EFR?


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Prof315 said:


> Borg Warner EFR?


 I'd put money on it. Not DEPLOYED tax free money like SOME people though.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

of course its a euro car.......not an EFR tho. And i didnt have to spend a dime


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> of course its a euro car.......not an EFR tho. And i didnt have to spend a dime


 I meant a euro SPEC car.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

PBWB said:


> I meant a euro SPEC car.


 it is but that means nothing to me. It's still just a VW.:thumbup:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Mexican cars are better anyway.

Amirite?


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

Hey HURT how did your dyno runs go? 
You make more than 250whp? bahnbrenner made 225 right? So.. yeah :thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

im gonna guess 287whp


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Ordered another valve spring compressor today, who'd imagine that my trusty old otc for sbc and BBC wouldn't work on a ohc head. Yes I got a schely. 

Next step new dial bore gauge and micrometer set in metric. Glad I have a large list of suppliers to order tools from and work deals with too bad no one wants to come off a electronic bore gauge for under 190 (well, a mid grade one any way).

The white whale of a mk3 tdi crank is alluding me for now, oh well.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> im gonna guess 287whp


 I'm gonna go with 276whp (pun intended).


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

I'm gonna go with some sort of excuse for it not getting done.


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

911_fan said:


> I'm gonna go with some sort of excuse for it not getting done.


 Very cynical 911_fan haha! I'm going to say right around 250 if done on a mustang dyno:thumbup:

Sent from my VS840 4G using Tapatalk 2


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

Anyone got advice for my next performance upgrade for my 2.slow? 
I have a tt chip (non cam, because I didn't plan on even getting a cam..), a tt 2.25" exhaust with custom VIBRANT Racing muffler (wrong pipe size for performance cam, i know..) and a 260* tt camshaft. I have a NEUSPEED P-FLO but I heard the stock box flows better/is better so I switched back. 

i'm thinking to call TT and have my chip re-burned to a cam file, or getting a C2 race file, followed by a test pipe (my cat is dead, I got the cat below threshold code), and a MK4 AEG intake manifold swap. 

But, sometimes, I think about getting a OBD1 cylinder head from a pick-n-pull, and getting a tt 272 camshaft, with a C2 race file. But that's kind of pricey and I don't like pulling my car apart, since I need to drive it daily.. HURT told me the cheapest/easiest option would be to get a NEUSPEED supercharger used for 1000 or some low boost turbo system, since I have the basic mods already, and don't want to upgrade springs. But i'm open to all advice, thanks guys.. oh, and i'm a novice backyard-mechanic. I put the cam/chip/exhaust/intake in my self, but my friend set the timing for me. i have access to a lift and good tools. 

:thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

LöW N SLö said:


> Anyone got advice for my next performance upgrade for my 2.slow?
> I have a tt chip (non cam, because I didn't plan on even getting a cam..), a tt 2.25" exhaust with custom VIBRANT Racing muffler (wrong pipe size for performance cam, i know..) and a 260* tt camshaft. I have a NEUSPEED P-FLO but I heard the stock box flows better/is better so I switched back.
> 
> i'm thinking to call TT and have my chip re-burned to a cam file, or getting a C2 race file, followed by a test pipe (my cat is dead, I got the cat below threshold code), and a MK4 AEG intake manifold swap.
> ...


 a head swap takes two hours if you're taking your time. just do it on a saturday. A neuspeed charger would be the easiest install.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> I'm gonna go with some sort of excuse for it not getting done.


 That's not very nice..  

Dyno runs are tomorrow. Going to be tuning the cam gear, too.. Gotta get that dialed in for best overall performance. Set to *0 for the first few runs, though. 

Hoping for 275whp. But.. A bigger cam (276 114lca instead of a 268/260),a custom pulley, fully built big valve cylinder head, 3" exhaust, etc.. Might not equal 50whp more than what BBM made. 
Here's to hoping! :beer:


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## 2.slowduo (Sep 17, 2008)

blackspyder said:


> The white whale of a mk3 tdi crank is alluding me for now, oh well.
> 
> sent from mobile internet device.


 Alh crank for sale on Chicago Craigslist 

Not close to you but it's there


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> That's not very nice..
> 
> Dyno runs are tomorrow. Going to be tuning the cam gear, too.. Gotta get that dialed in for best overall performance. Set to *0 for the first few runs, though.
> 
> ...


 what kinda dyno?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Hurt said:


> That's not very nice.


 Encouragement


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

2.slowduo said:


> Alh crank for sale on Chicago Craigslist
> 
> Not close to you but it's there


 300 sight unseen is steep for a used crank. If its damaged having it cut will bring the price up close to that of a new one or usrt crank or I'll be out 300 bucks with a 35# paperweight if its too bad to cut

sent from mobile internet device.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

[email protected] said:


> a head swap takes two hours if you're taking your time. just do it on a saturday. A neuspeed charger would be the easiest install.


 Don't I have to get the cylinder head machined before I could install it? Like.. couldn't it be warped? I have a friend who did a long motor build, and swapped on a head without machining it and it leaked coolant and didn't last long at all.. i'm thinking the mk4 manifold swap and the cat delete and C2 chip will be my next move. 
PBWB said there's companies that sell a mk3 maf extension so i don't have to do any custom wiring.. anyone know what he's talking about? PBWB, link me please? :wave:


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Low, you don't always have to have the head cut, check it for straightness along the length in 2 to 3 places then across the width on each of the cylinders and then diagonally from corner to corner. Look for any warping. use a straightedge and set of feeler gauges for this.

And always replace your head bolts! this is where people try to cut corners and it bites their asses and they cry bad machining.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

I checked my block out today. It looks like it needs a line bore and and a mild cutting to alleviate a mild egg shaping of .01 to .08 ( I used a dirty method of checking the bore diameter so the .08 may be a fluke)

sent from mobile internet device.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

265, 268, and 269whp on a Mustang Dyno.. Only got to do 3 runs, didn't get to tune the cam gear. Made power all the way to ~7000 RPM. :thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

*FV-QR*

fix the link foo!


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Which shop did you get this done at, Colm?


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

Link doesnt work.. Dafuq man! 
make some videos already.. I wanna see that thing pull. 

stalkerstatus:: I saw you one time in Long Meadow, at the Mobil near the ct border! the white BBS with white inpro's look really dope.. that things real loud!


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Heloooooooo


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Slow week here waiting on tools. Namely the dykem, al carbide burrs, and intake gaskets for matching

sent from mobile internet device.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Heloooooooo


Sorry, work's been a bitch lately. I had it done in CT, at a place in Windsor. 

So much work and didn't even hit my goal. Kinda sucks.. Maybe when I get back to Boston and can have more than 10 minutes of dyno time, I'll be able to tune the cam gear for optimal high end just so I can say I hit my goal of 275whp.. 
Anywho, 300+ crank hp in a fully loaded 2800lb car with a nice gearbox feels great. It's faster than my GLI, that's for sure. But my APR Stage II should fix that. New cars are so easy to make HP with. It's ridiculous. 300bhp with a tune and exhaust. :screwy:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

LöW N SLö said:


> Link doesnt work.. Dafuq man!
> make some videos already.. I wanna see that thing pull.
> 
> stalkerstatus:: I saw you one time in Long Meadow, at the Mobil near the ct border! the white BBS with white inpro's look really dope.. that things real loud!


Thanks. The white RS's are gone, though. Replaced them with Red 17" NEUSPEED's so I could run 245's, and the tails are now all red - no more INPRO's. 
I can send you some videos of 0-100, or just search through my photobucket. There's a few 0-100 and one is 40 to 140, starting in 4th gear.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

The mustang dyno is about as accurate a representation of the power to the ground as you are gonna get. I wouldn't be so upset about that number.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> The mustang dyno is about as accurate a representation of the power to the ground as you are gonna get. I wouldn't be so upset about that number.


Thanks for the kind words, Travis.
I'm just sort of disappointed, because BBM made 225whp on a stock cylinder head.
I have a fully done up head, and tons more mods than BBM had!
Differences include: OBD1 head, Ported/Polished, GOOD 3 angle valve job, decked .040", AEG lifters, HD springs, TT's 42mm intake and 35mm exhaust valves, titanium retainers.. the 276* WLCA cam (BBM used a 268/260), custom pulley that holds 1.5BAR of boost without tapering off, and I'm using C2's Stage II software, optimized for my set up (so I was told..) I also have a gasket matched/ported MK4 exhaust manifold, a TT 2.5" DP, and a 3" MBS exhaust, and my MK4 intake manifold is one of the ported ones by ScientificRabbit or whatever, that I bought used from a friend, BBM's forged pistons.. I also have powergaskets everywhere, and tons of little extra's, like BBM's billet fuel rail, a MOROSO oilpan (5.7q capacity), samco hoses, yadayadaydaydyada. 
Someone once told me that the 02A eats more power than the 020. But.. Idk about that for a fact. My BBM 02A is pretty darn nice, I don't think an 020 would be up to the task of launching this thing over and over, slamming gears, chirping 4th, blowing the tires off on the freeway, etc. :laugh:
It sort of makes me think that BBM might have weighed the odds in their favor for their dyno runs, if you know what I mean.. I saw someone with a stage III BBM kit run just 200whp even, once.. 

At the end of the day, it's still fast, I built it myself, I have pride in it, and I am happy with it. It's a great daily driver, and it's a great track car.. It handles amazing with the B&G coils and the Neuspeed sway bars, and the super grippy 245's. It's only broke down on me when I.. well.. only broke down when I was stupidly abusive to it (8500 RPM's, over and over).

It's pretty much a closed case now, until I tune the dyno gear. And if I'm feeling like pushing my luck, this:









:laugh:
My days of making tons of projects aren't over, though. I'm still searching for a MK1 Caddy, and I WILL be building a track car for Auto-X this year (probably a MK3 GTI 2.0), whether I have to sleep on the couch for a year or not. umpkin: 
But If I decide not to make my wife hate me, I will just use the GT for Auto-X and SCCA events, which would be fun.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

Sorry to thread jack, but does anyone have opinions on my set up?
I have a tt tuning 260* cam
tt tuning non cam chip
tt tuning 2.25" exhaust (wrong size, i know..)
and a P-FLO intake, but I dont use it since you all say they flow worse than stock airboxes.
Its a dd, and i just want a little more power.
my ideas are thus!
MK4 intake manifold swap, with a custom cold air intake if possible
C2 stage II cam chip (911_fan says it's way better than tt tunings chip)
and a cat delete (my cat is dead).
and _maybe_ a 268/260 cam if I can find one used for cheap, since 911_fan says they're pretty good.

is this worth the ~250-400 dollars it would cost, or should i save up for a usrt long runner intake manifold or maybe a big cam and hd valve springs?

thanks guys!!
glad to hear your car is making good power HURT!!


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

High flow cat would be a better option over deleting it. 

If you want to run a big cam, don't waste money and time on making a mild cam upgrade save for the bigger one. By the same token don't get a cam tuned chip if you're going to change the cam down the road

sent from mobile internet device.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

blackspyder said:


> By the same token don't get a cam tuned chip if you're going to change the cam down the road


Why's that?


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Assuming that vw cam tuned chips are similar to how gm ones work. If you pickup a chip for a 260 cam you'll have to get it flashed or order another chip.

Tell me if I'm wrong I'm working withpieced together info

sent from mobile internet device.


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## aqeel-1994 (Oct 22, 2011)

http://www.fastwayracer.com/Forced-...nternal-Wastegate-Turbo-Kit/product_info.html

about this kit guys . my car is Jetta S MK6 6 speed AT.( I am from SaudiArabia to be in case. )

i found someone can program this kit if i installed it in my car ( he is a professional programmer for Chip car) .Now all of you will say this kit will destroy your engine. Can any one explain to me why all of you say that about this kit?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

blackspyder said:


> Assuming that vw cam tuned chips are similar to how gm ones work. If you pickup a chip for a 260 cam you'll have to get it flashed or order another chip.
> 
> Tell me if I'm wrong I'm working withpieced together info
> 
> sent from mobile internet device.


There is no need for a new or re flash when swapping cams. Only difference is idle speed between all canned tunes. I ran 4 different cams on the stage 2 PEM. The MAF will more than make up for fueling with different cams.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

aqeel-1994 said:


> http://www.fastwayracer.com/Forced-...nternal-Wastegate-Turbo-Kit/product_info.html
> 
> about this kit guys . my car is Jetta S MK6 6 speed AT.( I am from SaudiArabia to be in case. )
> 
> i found someone can program this kit if i installed it in my car ( he is a professional programmer for Chip car) .Now all of you will say this kit will destroy your engine. Can any one explain to me why all of you say that about this kit?


That kit is very generic.. "1990-2011". Sure, it might bolt up to your head, but it will require a ton of custom fabrication to get the Intercooler pipes working, the Oil feed/drain lines, you'll have to tap your oil pan, etc,etc. 
I wouldn't buy it. I'm a strong believer in quality setups over generic set ups, though. 
For the money, if you want to get that car to ~200whp, you'll have to spend 3-5 thousand dollars to have it done correctly and professionally.
For that, couldn't you find another engine, or maybe trade the car in, and get a 2.5l or a 2.0T? 



911_fan said:


> There is no need for a new or re flash when swapping cams. Only difference is idle speed between all canned tunes. I ran 4 different cams on the stage 2 PEM. The MAF will more than make up for fueling with different cams.


This.
Some people do disagree, though.
But, I ran my C2 272* cam file on a 298* cam briefly, a TT 276 for a long time, an Autotech 270, and on a completely stock Mk2 2.0 8v swap, and hey, it made a HUGE difference in a STOCK cam 8v. The chip will adjust fueling/timing as needed for different profiles, even if it's a stock cam to a big cam, in my experience. I never had any real problems with any idle speeds, or any sort of issue with not having enough fuel or timing. Even running 87 octane in the stock mk2. I ran it in my built 298* car with higher than 11:1 compression. No problems at all.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Double post fail - hate using a mobile


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Got a question, I noticed in the linked turbo kit, the turbo isn't water cooled and it uses a turbo timer to prevent shutting off the car with the turbo hot.

Why aren't we using water cooled turbos?

sent from mobile internet device.


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## aqeel-1994 (Oct 22, 2011)

blackspyder said:


> Got a question, I noticed in the linked turbo kit, the turbo isn't water cooled and it uses a turbo timer to prevent shutting off the car with the turbo hot.
> 
> Why aren't we using water cooled turbos?
> 
> sent from mobile internet device.


Oooooh , i noticed that too. After your words , i changed my opinion about the turbo.

I am thinking now to change the whole engine with a used turbo engine ( 2.0T ) .Do you know any website that sell a used engine ?

actually , i do not want trade the car or sell it because i love this car too much . in the Middleeast
we just have the 2.slow ( 2.0 8V ) in jetta. VW has made a big mistake when they supplied jetta with this sick engine in the Middleeast . 

Thanks and best regards


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> a head swap takes two hours if you're taking your time. just do it on a saturday. A neuspeed charger would be the easiest install.


 It'll DEFINITELY take longer than 2 hours....Hell I'd even venture to say that most on here would be VERY hard pressed to change a head in 2 hrs even if they were moving with a purpose! It'll definitely take longer, especially if it's the first time the head is being separated from the block. I say this because there's all sorts of crap to remove off the block/head mating surface, a strong possibility of rounding off exhaust manifold nuts, studs backing out upon removal of said nuts, etc.



LöW N SLö said:


> Don't I have to get the cylinder head machined before I could install it? Like.. couldn't it be warped? I have a friend who did a long motor build, and swapped on a head without machining it and it leaked coolant and didn't last long at all.. i'm thinking the mk4 manifold swap and the cat delete and C2 chip will be my next move.
> PBWB said there's companies that sell a mk3 maf extension so i don't have to do any custom wiring.. anyone know what he's talking about? PBWB, link me please? :wave:


Yes, get it machined or at least looked at by a machine shop while it's off. Don't trust a steel ruler or anything mass produced that "looks" straight. It's not worth having to do it all over again.....That's what precision machining is for.

And I'll find that MAF extension today and request it be put on the FAQ thread or similar.



Hurt said:


> Thanks for the kind words, Travis.
> I'm just sort of disappointed, because BBM made 225whp on a stock cylinder head.
> I have a fully done up head, and tons more mods than BBM had!
> Someone once told me that the 02A eats more power than the 020. But.. Idk about that for a fact. My BBM 02A is pretty darn nice, I don't think an 020 would be up to the task of launching this thing over and over, slamming gears, chirping 4th, blowing the tires off on the freeway, etc. :laugh:
> It sort of makes me think that BBM might have weighed the odds in their favor for their dyno runs, if you know what I mean.. I saw someone with a stage III BBM kit run just 200whp even, once..


At least BBM "says" it was stock when they dyno'd it. Often times there are factors like icing intercoolers, dynoing on 30* days, and the like that companies don't include when they spill the details. More than likely some of these things occurred when BBM dyno'd theirs.

And 02a gears do eat more power, but not by a whole lot. The physics of rotating mass is what makes this true. I don't have any "solid, scholarly evidence", but this is one of the textbook tuner things I've agreed with. An lsd robs a small amount of power as well believe it or not.....the forces it takes to drive both wheels (as opposed to the wheel with the least traction as seen in an open diff) puts more strain on the drivetrain, and subsequently slightly more power loss is induced.



blackspyder said:


> Got a question, I noticed in the linked turbo kit, the turbo isn't water cooled and it uses a turbo timer to prevent shutting off the car with the turbo hot.
> 
> Why aren't we using water cooled turbos?
> 
> sent from mobile internet device.


 We aren't using water cooled turbos because they're often not needed. They're always recommended, provided the cooling system can take on the extra load of cooling a 1200* chunk of metal, but it's not required. Turbo timers are another good investment for the long term. The turbine wheel expands with the intensity of the heat provided by the exhaust gases, and idling gases are obviously much cooler. The purpose of a turbo timer is to prevent the rapid cooling of the turbo, bearings, etc because bad things like warping, things getting brittle, etc happen when metal cools too quickly. A good example is the fact that the UH-60 Blackhawk helicopter (which I've been familiar with for over 13 years now) has a "before shutdown" requirement of the engine basically being on the ground and running at less than 90% NG (gas generator speed) for at least 2 minutes prior to shutting down the engines for these exact reasons. After a shutdown you can always hear the individual compressor and turbine blades popping and snapping back into place because they aren't as expanded by the heat as they were when the engine was running. It's obviously an exaggerated example, but an example none the less.

I guess I went off on a tangent there......K, I'm gonna shut up and go stuff my face now.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Good info I was wondering because in the trucking industry almost all turbos are now water cooled and turbo life is greatly increased over the older non cooled ones

sent from mobile internet device.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

thanks PBWB! I appreciate the info! I knew swapping heads without machining it seemed risky.. I'll be really happy if I can get a plug n play maf extension for a mk4 manifold swap. Thats the hardest part IMO, only reason i havent done the swap yet!
so when i get the Mk4 manifold, i will also get a test pipe and a c2 cam chip.. making my set up - 
0bd2 car/engine
tt 260* cam
tt exhaust, 2.25", custom VIBRANT RACING muffler (sounds deep, not ricey!!)
Mk4 intake manifold with custom cai (i will remove my windshield washer fluid to make room for it if i really have to)
bfi c2 cam chip (i have a tt non cam chip, 911_fan says it's a good upgrade, HURT says it isnt worth it.. confused!!)
cat delete, (since my catalytic converter is dead)
maybe a tt tuning adjustable cam gear ( if its worth it)
maybe a 268/260 cam (if i can find one used for cheap)
i'm hoping for like 115whp, or 135bhp.. either way, it isnt a race car.
it's my daily driver, just for work and school, and to friends houses, so.. i just drive it to and fro, and give it a flogging sometimes.. I launched the other day at 3000 rpms and the tach went to 6800 rpm and just sat there til it got traction, haha. I never usually never take it above 6400 rpm (bubble cluster high redline ftw) and I noticed that if i shift at around the stock obd2 redline (6200) i get the fastest acceleration.. but feel free to correct me if i am wrong, forum.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

You'll be lucky to hit 110whp with that tiny 260* cam. You aren't going to hit any worth while whp until you upgrade your valvetrain and run a much larger cam.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Progress being made









sent from mobile internet device.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

911_fan said:


> You'll be lucky to hit 110whp with that tiny 260* cam. You aren't going to hit any worth while whp until you upgrade your valvetrain and run a much larger cam.


i don't want to spend 200 dollars on a spring upgrade. :banghead:
and i'm not sure if i can install them by myself.


if i can get a obd1 cylinderhead for cheap, i'd get a 272* cam from tt tuning and that should give me a lot more power! :thumbup:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

The bitch of the spring swap is getting ahold of a DOHC valve spring compressor. Once you have that, you can just use some nylon rope to fill the gap between the piston and the valve to keep them from dropping. These motors are super easy to do work on. I loved having an SRI back in the day...cam swaps were literally a 15 minute affair.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

If the head is on the motor I use a compression tester end and an air fitting to hold the valves up. The schely universal tool doesn't work the greatest on the 8v heads.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

LöW N SLö said:


> i don't want to spend 200 dollars on a spring upgrade. :banghead:
> and i'm not sure if i can install them by myself.
> 
> 
> if i can get a obd1 cylinderhead for cheap, i'd get a 272* cam from tt tuning and that should give me a lot more power! :thumbup:


You're friends with Jessica, aren't you? I will install HD springs for you, if you really need the help, and can drive the car up to my place in Boston. I have the tools that are necessary. 
I also have a lightly used 276* camshaft.. If you want it, I will give you a deal, and I will install it.
I have tons of spare 8v parts, bud. I'm always glad to help the community.


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

crappy iphone pics of my friends carb set up he just picked up.












lots of screws and adjustments.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Jh0104 said:


> crappy iphone pics of my friends carb set up he just picked up.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


ick! Carbs on a mk3!
But I've saw a really nifty mk1 with a ABA with twin webers - the grille is perfect in the MK1's - direct cold air to the opening of the carbs.. MK3's get hot air from the radiator, in theory.

Anyone know why MK4 2.0's only had 115hp, but had a better intake manifold and exhaust manifold/exhaust system than a MK3? I'm thinking they should be rated at like 120 instead, but I don't know anything about how MK4 heads are made, really. 

On a better note, I got my GLI flashed today (APR stage II), got my APR intake and full turbo back exhaust set up on. Holy ****. For a FWD car, it really rips! I'm talking almost as fast as my GT to 100. I wish I could put a DSG gearbox in a my MK3 - that'd be cool.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

i think i just thought of a really easy way to make a MAF extension for doing a mk4 manifold swap!
if you look at this picture:









I would go to a junk yard, find a MK3 2.0, take the female-style connector that plugs onto the MAF, follow the wires to the harness, and cut it there, then find another mk3 and cut another female connector.. and butt-splice the 4 wires.. so I'd have 1 female connector on each side of this wire extension. Then, plug it into my car's stock MAF wiring location, put it between the MK4 manifolds, and plug it into the MAF. 

should work, in theory, right? seems easier than trying to find the right gauge wire, and etc.

also, when I do the MK4 manifold swap (because I am, ASAP, since I got a plastic cover in MINT condition for 5 bucks, and the intake manifold and valve cover and PCV for 75), I will relocate my battery if possible, to make room for a Mk4 Airbox, or a custom CAI with a heatshield. 
Does the battery cables reach the other side of the engine bay, where the airbox usually goes in the MK3?
and should I run a catch-can for the mk4 PCV set up? people say to put a breather on the end, but don't they spray oil on the engine bay? 
will eBay catch cans work? for a 10th of the price of a 42dd catch can, I mean.. is it worth it? All it is is a oil-vapor-reservoir, right?

Thanks guys!

oh and HURT, I appreciate your offer! I will PM you with my telephone number.. I can make a trip to Boston with Jessica, yes, she's my good friend. Id like to swap in a tt tuning 272* cam or maybe even a 276*, if you will sell yours! you do great work from what i've seen, keep it up man! hope to hear from you soon! :wave:


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Hurt said:


> ick! Carbs on a mk3!
> 
> On a better note, I got my GLI flashed today (APR stage II), got my APR intake and full turbo back exhaust set up on. Holy ****. For a FWD car, it really rips! I'm talking almost as fast as my GT to 100. I wish I could put a DSG gearbox in a my MK3 - that'd be cool.


ICK! Carbs period!:laugh:

I'm pretty sure it wouldn't be to hard to set up manual paddle shift only on a DSG


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

Hurt said:


> ick! Carbs on a mk3!



cant beat the sound though. all the vw motorsport cars from back in the day that used 8v's were running high compression and carbs with a solid lifter 300+ profile cam dry-sumped. pumping about 200whp out of an 8v all motor. i can respect those numbers. most 16v guys switch to carbs also because the motorsport 16v cars were pushing 250whp. the only way to make big power na is with a carb setup or itb's. :beer: 

those carbs are off an alfa romeo and they are attached to a rowlands intake manifold. comes with a vacuum advance dizzy and a nice 3 bar fpr with gauge built in.

also Hurt, im 99% sure the reason for the lack in power in mk4's is because the cam grind was more for low end and mpg's. sort of like the obd2 mk3 aba heads. the obd2 cam is slightly more aggressive only because of the shrouds introduced in the heads on obd2 cars. so they made the cam slightly more aggressive so that the shrouds didnt lower power levels- or else obd2's would have less output and obd1 aba's. the mk4's intake and exhaust mani's flow much better so instead of raising output using mk3 camshafts, they gave it a milder cam to improve mpg's. 

correct me if im wrong :thumbup:


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

LöW N SLö said:


> so I'd have 1 female connector on each side of this wire extension. Then, plug it into my car's stock MAF wiring location, put it between the MK4 manifolds, and plug it into the MAF.


Not sure I follow. Why the 2 connectors? You'd be running two MAF's? All you have to do is extend the harness. You can cut and use OEM harness wiring to keep the same colors if you really want, but other than that I don't really get it.



LöW N SLö said:


> Does the battery cables reach the other side of the engine bay, where the airbox usually goes in the MK3?


No, they won't come anywhere close to reaching. There's no slack in them at all. If you're going to relocate, put it in the trunk.



LöW N SLö said:


> and should I run a catch-can for the mk4 PCV set up?


They all do the same thing. I'd just run the Mk4 PCV setup and call it a day. I definitely wouldn't leave it open air with a breather unless you want to smell fumes inside your car and have the smell on your clothes whenever you drive it.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

You are wrong. Mkiv cam is the same as the OBDII MKIII cam.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Hurt said:


> Anyone know why MK4 2.0's only had 115hp, but had a better intake manifold and exhaust manifold/exhaust system than a MK3? I'm thinking they should be rated at like 120 instead, but I don't know anything about how MK4 heads are made, really.


Well, the mk4 engines produce the same amount of horsepower and torque as the ABA, but peak torque hits at 2600rpm, where as on the ABA it's 3200rpm. That's thanks to the intake and exhaust manifolds you mention. If there's any other difference, I would suspect tuning be involved.


LöW N SLö said:


> i think i just thought of a really easy way to make a MAF extension for doing a mk4 manifold swap!
> if you look at this picture:
> 
> 
> ...


 Bad news....I can't seem to find the harness I once saw. 

Concerning the rest of your post: I'm confused about using 2 female maf connectors. There IS a vw part number for the male connector on the MAF. If you PM 68bug2000jetta, he can give it to ya.....he made his own using actual maf wiring, but either way DON'T use slices.....use solder. Remember that any splices you use need to be environmentally sound otherwise moisture will get into the wire and corrode it, making you think you have a faulty maf when it's actually the corroded wire sending wrong voltage. Battery cables will NOT reach the passenger side on a mk3, no way, no how. Your best bet is to get a relocation kit from Summit Racing. And you can run a catch can or run it overboard, your call. You'll need to figure out a solution for the PCV on the block though if you do....The 42DD adapter is too small and ended up blowing a rear main seal on a swap I was a part of in the past.


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

911_fan said:


> You are wrong. Mkiv cam is the same as the OBDII MKIII cam.


:thumbup:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

PBWB said:


> Well, the mk4 engines produce the same amount of horsepower and torque as the ABA, but peak torque hits at 2600rpm, where as on the ABA it's 3200rpm. That's thanks to the intake and exhaust manifolds you mention. If there's any other difference, I would suspect tuning be involved.


Yuppers. You can blame the weight of the car for this.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

PBWB said:


> Bad news....I can't seem to find the harness I once saw.
> 
> Concerning the rest of your post: I'm confused about using 2 female maf connectors. There IS a vw part number for the male connector on the MAF. If you PM 68bug2000jetta, he can give it to ya.....he made his own using actual maf wiring, but either way DON'T use slices.....use solder. Remember that any splices you use need to be environmentally sound otherwise moisture will get into the wire and corrode it, making you think you have a faulty maf when it's actually the corroded wire sending wrong voltage. Battery cables will NOT reach the passenger side on a mk3, no way, no how. Your best bet is to get a relocation kit from Summit Racing. And you can run a catch can or run it overboard, your call. You'll need to figure out a solution for the PCV on the block though if you do....The 42DD adapter is too small and ended up blowing a rear main seal on a swap I was a part of in the past.


darn it.. i guess i'll have to make my own 
oops. I meant 1 female and 1 male. basically a home made extension without having to solder 2 different sides of wiring. 
i guess i'll go with the summit racing kit, and then run a mk4 or some other good flowing vw airbox where the battery used to be.. i dont want to run a open cone filter. If I do, i will make a good heatshield in the shape of a box, and run a brake-vent-hose from my KAMEI dummy panel vents to the heatshield.. so it'll get constant air coming into the vent to the box whem i'm driving. i know it isn't ram-air, or anything, but i think having a little air going through the vent at all times to the airbox should be a benefit in theory.. maybe even open up the fender side of the heatshield's fender and creating a seal to the fender, so there's even more cold air getting to the filter. 
again, correct me if i'm wrong forum.
and i'd love to see any CAI or short ram set ups with a MK4 intake on a mk3, or a airbox.. thanks guys. :wave:

oh and HURT you have a PM I will take you up on your offer to install heavy duty springs for me, i can pay you, but i'm not exactly rich.. i'm a full time student so.. like.. is 50 bucks and some beer okay? 
Then i'll install a tt camshaft, either tt 272 or tt 276, and get my cat delete and my c2 chip. hopefully i'll have a good 125whp!


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

911_fan said:


> Yuppers. You can blame the weight of the car for this.


For what?


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

LöW N SLö said:


> darn it.. i guess i'll have to make my own
> oops. I meant 1 female and 1 male. basically a home made extension without having to solder 2 different sides of wiring.
> i guess i'll go with the summit racing kit, and then run a mk4 or some other good flowing vw airbox where the battery used to be..
> 
> ...


Yeah, I got it. Taken to PM's.
Picked up a 1998 GTI 2.0 today for 500 at auction, needs a transmission.
SCCA car build to follow. umpkin:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

PBWB said:


> For what?


For having to move the torque peak down to work with the taller gears to move the bigfatpigofa mkiv.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

LöW N SLö said:


> i guess i'll go with the summit racing kit


They are kind of pricey for what they are. You could save money by finding E30 cables in a yard, or just buy an amp power installation kit or power wire by the foot (20 feet should be plenty). I don't recommend anything thinner than 4 gauge. I'd also recommend a dry cell so then you don't have to deal with a box.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

I ran the summit kit. Needed to weld a mount in the hatch. Des NOT properly secure a battery. And you need the get a distribution block from a stereo store fr all the power/ground cables at the battery. It's definitely not a plug and play.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

You could use a Mk4 distribution block too. I used a small Odyssey PC680 battery when I did a relocation and a hold down made specifically for it. If you run a standard battery you should definitely weld and/or run the straps through the body for safety.


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## 2.slowduo (Sep 17, 2008)

Mk4. 2.0. Also has a shorter stroke than the aba. This would probably have something to do with the hp being the same. Even though mk4 intake and exhaust manifolds flow better

It's funny if you look at the 2.0 dyno threads mk4s make quite a bit less power with the same mods as mk3s. 

I could never understand why vw did not use the 9a as the base engine for everything. When all the jap and American cars were coming out with 130-150 "base" hp golf and jetta owners were stuck with 115. 
Not that I don't love my aba, and love to jump on cars that came with more power


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

2.slowduo said:


> Mk4. 2.0. Also has a shorter stroke than the aba. This would probably have something to do with the hp being the same.


How about NO. both have the same stroke at 92.8mm. Their rod lengths are different: ABA:159mm vs. AEG:144


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## 2.slowduo (Sep 17, 2008)

Well there ya go.


Still results in less squish before the bang. How else can you explain lower real world hp and performance weight aside


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

What? A shorter rod is made up by a crank with a larger stroke.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

2.slowduo said:


> Well there ya go.
> 
> 
> Still results in less squish before the bang. How else can you explain lower real world hp and performance weight aside


Drivetrain loss perhaps?


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

911_fan said:


> What? A shorter rod is made up by a crank with a larger stroke.


There are other options like lower compression, taller piston deck height, flat top pistons and so on.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

911_fan said:


> How about NO. both have the same stroke at 92.8mm. Their rod lengths are different: ABA:159mm vs. AEG:144


Correct, the deck height of the block is different (ABA blocks are 15mm taller) The ABA has a better rod/stroke ratio and crazy piston dwell at TDC giving the ABA more potential torque at the price of being less rev friendly.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

2.slowduo said:


> Well there ya go.
> 
> 
> Still results in less squish before the bang. How else can you explain lower real world hp and performance weight aside


Transmission losses, 02J transmissions have much beefier/HEAVIER parts, it takes more power to get them spinning. Heck just a stock 02J dual mass flywheel weighs more than an entire 020 clutch,pressure plate and flywheel assembly.


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## 2.slowduo (Sep 17, 2008)

How can a heavier transmission, fly wheel and clutch. Account for the same hp
That vw rates at the flywheel. Since a stock aba is rated at 115 and puts down 90ish to the wheels

I can see how it would make a mk4 show lower at the wheels but does not really have anything to do with the gross hp

I'm glad you cleared up the deck height, I was wondering. I think the compression ratio is the same


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Question since I'm building an aba "stroker" motor with an alh crank what pistons should I use. Looking at an 83mm bore

sent from mobile internet device.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

2.slowduo said:


> How can a heavier transmission, fly wheel and clutch. Account for the same hp
> That vw rates at the flywheel. Since a stock aba is rated at 115 and puts down 90ish to the wheels
> 
> I can see how it would make a mk4 show lower at the wheels but does not really have anything to do with the gross hp
> ...


The compression ratio is the same between the ABA and AEG.
I'm thinking the tuning is different in the Mk4, which is why it has the same high end HP but more low end tq than the mk3. The manifold differences help, the AEG intake is better for TQ than the ABA manifold, and it's the same thing for high end HP - way better flow. They probably tuned for more low end power to move the heavy ass MK4 around, which could be why the TQ and HP peak is lower than the ABA's peaks.

Anywho,
I'm going to be building my newly acquired 98 2.0 GTI for this season's SCCA Street Modified class. :thumbup:


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

Hurt said:


> I'm going to be building my newly acquired 98 2.0 GTI for this season's SCCA Street Modified class. :thumbup:



nice, you can run it in street prepared too unless your going to modify internals. you'll be running SMF (street mod fwd) class once you mod anything internal. its a good class, you just gotta watch out for MS3's and the such. :thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Jh0104 said:


> nice, you can run it in street prepared too unless your going to modify internals. you'll be running SMF (street mod fwd) class once you mod anything internal. its a good class, you just gotta watch out for MS3's and the such. :thumbup:


I'll be doing my favorite set up:
272* or 276* camshaft set to +4*
worked head 
90mm headgasket
C2 race file chip
my SRI
MK4 exhaust manifold
TT race DP
2.5" exhaust
02A transmission, peloquin, TDI 5th (3000 RPM at 80 MPH!)
So around 130whp. Dependent on the cam choice and which head I decide to use. I believe I have 2 ABA heads in my shop.. I also just bought a NEUSPEED 276*, which looks to be more aggressive than tt's 276. 
It should be a fun little car. I don't want to run my GT in SCCA, for fear of gouging my fresh paint or ruining something.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Itis more aggressive. It is very much like the Schrick 276 with (I think) a .451" lift. Rare came to have these days.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Itis more aggressive. It is very much like the Schrick 276 with (I think) a .451" lift. Rare came to have these days.


Thanks for the conformation. I got it for 50 bucks, as a "TT 270". 
I'm ordering up a storm of parts for this GTI - I have so many Jetta parts, but not enough GTI or Golf parts. I have an entire NEUSPEED exhaust meant for a Jetta, I'm just going to cut the tail pipes on it to make it fit. 
I'm hoping it'll do pretty good in SCCA, handling wise, anyway. I'll be running my favorite kit - my Koni Yellows and Neuspeed Race springs. I have a 25mm front and a 28mm rear swaybar kit in the garage, too, so that should be good, with poly bushings all around. R32 control arm bushings are on their way from BFI, along with .5 mounts, and a C2 chip. 
Lucky enough, I bought a second ABF cluster last year - (the 160 MPH and 6800RPM redline cluster) which will pair with the 276* near perfectly as far as shifting at redline goes.
I also have a head in my shop that has a 3 angle valve job with 040" decked off.
90mm headgasket on it's way, with AEG lifters and other necessities.
So the set up will be:
NEUSPEED 276*, set to +4*
Ported and polished cylinder head, decked 040", 3 angle valve job, HD springs, AEG lifters.
NEUSPEED 2.4" exhaust
NEUSPEED camgear
NEUSPEED plug wires
My USRT SRI (5th car it's been on, if my count is right!)
90mm headgasket
C2 race file
MK4 exhaust manifold, TT race downpipe (no CAT)
02A Corrado transmission, TDI 5th, NEUSPEED SS kit
So.. I'm guessing around 130whp, maybe more if I'm lucky.. Made 135whp last time with nearly the same set up..
I'll also be gutting the interior behind the driver+passenger seats, getting rid of the N/A rebars and bumper supports, lightweight battery mounted in the hatch, Euro bumpers, and other little weight reduction things. A set of lightweight wheels will be found. The A/C doesn't work, so that'll be deleted with a set of pulleys. I will be swapping in a non-powersteering rack from a MK2, and I will be getting rid of ABS (personal preference)
Anyone have suggestions as far as SCCA rules and regulations with this set up? 
Anyone have weight reduction tips?

Thanks everyone.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

How do you know it's a neuspeed cam?


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> How do you know it's a neuspeed cam?


It has a 276 engraved in it. It also measured out to a little more than .452" of lift which is about what Neuspeed advertised (.453").

I wonder how it'll sound with the Neuspeed exhaust. Hopefully not too loud. I paid for overnight shipping for a ton of my parts, and mail didn't come today because of the storm.. Sad day for me.
I got the GTI stripped down though. Luckily, no holes in the floors. I tend to luck out with MK3 2 doors. 
I also decided on a track wheel/tire choice - 15x7 5zigen fn10rc's. 205/45 Toyo's.
This has been one of the cheapest builds I've done yet, I've barely spent 3 grand so far.. and I bought a ton of parts. A few oversized items, too. Shipping is ridiculously expensive on some stuff.. But I have a ton of the parts in the shop, so I bet that accounts for probably around 70% of the total build cost (already have suspension, SRI, cam, worked head, fuel rail, brakes, etc).
Have to get the rest of the car torn down tonight, then if my packages get here Monday, reassembly will commence Mid Monday. Hopefully. :thumbup:


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## 2.slowduo (Sep 17, 2008)

I ran 2nd in class 3 years in a row in fsp in my jetta with a built head and 268 cam. I found the Koni yellows and eibachs way Better than my racelands. 
I constantly beat time wise faster heavier cars. 

I miss autoX


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## 96GOLFman (Mar 1, 2012)

Some how I pulled on an wrx in 3rd today hahaha 2.0 muscle

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

2.slowduo said:


> I ran 2nd in class 3 years in a row in fsp in my jetta with a built head and 268 cam. I found the Koni yellows and eibachs way Better than my racelands.
> I constantly beat time wise faster heavier cars.
> 
> I miss autoX


I'll be using my Koni Yellow's with NEUSPEED race springs, they are a great feeling set up. Neuspeed F&R swaybars. 
I'd imagine stock OEM shocks and springs would fare better than racelands.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

http://youtu.be/_1OHIkYsXAw

Forgot how much I missed the sound of the Golf. Wish I had taken more incar footage back then. Car was at its peak. 3rd gear + SRI + 288* cam = eargasm.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> http://youtu.be/_1OHIkYsXAw
> 
> Forgot how much I missed the sound of the Golf. Wish I had taken more incar footage back then. Car was at its peak. 3rd gear + SRI + 288* cam = eargasm.


Sounds quite similar to my old 135whp build. Mine was quieter, though, between my dual muffler exhaust and my custom airbox instead of cone filter on the SRI. 

SRI's sound so nice on ABA's, I can't wait to finally put the GTI 2.0 together!
I've gotten the head I'm using assembled. Should be on the car tomorrow if I can get enough time. Kids+ no school = no time to work on it :banghead: lol
I'm thinking I'll make less power than I did before with a very similar build because this head doesn't have plus sized valves. I'm hoping ~130whp will be enough for fsp class.. Hoping that my buddy will help me set up my rebound/damping on my Koni Yellow's. I'm not sure what to set it to. I also bought EuroSport camber plates, so that'll be set up too. Hopefully it'll handle good enough to make up for the low acceleration handicap. 
I also can't decide on a transmission.. Either one of these: 
Corrado G60 transmission, LSD, MK3 .75 5th gear. 
MK2 8v code 4k 020 transmission. No LSD (will buy one). 
I'm thinking the 020 will be better geared, since the gears are shorter. But the 020's are weaker in my experience, and it would totally kill the DD ability of the car..
I've also decided on 225/45's Toyo instead of 205/50's. They will fit on my 5zigen's without issues, if I have any luck. 
I look forward to beating VR's around the tracks this spring. :thumbup:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

020's are perfectly fine for DD duty as long as you install a bolt kit and a shim kit. The differential bolts are what shear and grenade the box. Going LSD is total over-kill on low hp 2.0s.


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## SPJosh1890 (Sep 4, 2010)

911_fan said:


> 020's are perfectly fine for DD duty as long as you install a bolt kit and a shim kit. The differential bolts are what shear and grenade the box. Going LSD is total over-kill on low hp 2.0s.


i really want to look in to this for myself. is there any write ups on it? or somewhere i could do some reading/learning about it?


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Brokevw (google it) is the source for 99% of all good 020 info

sent from mobile internet device.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

blackspyder said:


> Brokevw (google it) is the source for 99% of all good 020 info
> 
> sent from mobile internet device.



Yep.

Peloquin makes both products.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

911_fan said:


> 020's are perfectly fine for DD duty as long as you install a bolt kit and a shim kit. The differential bolts are what shear and grenade the box. Going LSD is total over-kill on low hp 2.0s.


 Yea, I've WOT shifted the jetta countless times (foot stays on the throttle), and the worst I've done was once got stuck in 3rd (which is semi-common for those who beat their cars up), and syncro damage. I have an 80% shim kit and bolt kit in and it's good enough for what I need it to do.

The only thing I'd suggest is measuring the preload. I say this because you can wear out a diff even with a brand new 80% shim kit, and it perform like a 40% shim kit (or less!). My 80% kit technically should have another 40% shim on the cups but I wasn't too worried about it.



SPJosh1890 said:


> i really want to look in to this for myself. is there any write ups on it? or somewhere i could do some reading/learning about it?


 www.brokevw.com


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

As far as DD-ability goes, I meant MPG wise. The 4k or 4y trans would suck, especially at speeds higher than 50MPH.. which is why I'm using my Corrado G60 trans with a TDI 5th. 
Head is together. Still waiting for clutch parts, though. The Engine tuns really well, glad to hear that rumble of a 276 again.. Neuspeed exhaust sounds great. Tomorrow the clutch will be here, and that'll go in.
Suspension is next.
I wonder if I'll feel any difference with a Neuspeed 276 over a TT 276. I doubt it. But hey, it's a "better" cam.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

The GTI pulls hard.
I forgot how much I missed the sound of a SRI 8v.. I'm using a cone filter for now. :screwy:
I'm just used to "WHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE bap WHEE WHHHHHEEEEEEEEEE" 


One thing I noticed is that the Neuspeed 276* pulls all the way to the 7200 RPM cutoff while set to 0* on the camgear. 
The 02A with a TDI 5th is great for MPG's, I got ATLEAST 30 MPG at 85 MPH going from Boston MA to Long Meadow MA and back today.

Anyone have any skills fabricating a custom airbox out of fiberglass or carbonfiber? I'd like one built for my SRI, and I'd pay handsomely for a good performing airbox set up with some source of direct cold air (BFI Brake ducts?)


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

PBWB said:


> once got stuck in 3rd (which is semi-common for those who beat their cars up), and syncro damage.


This is what made me go 02a.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

All manuals will stick if you jam on them too hard. I've stuck old Muncie 3 and 4 speeds from speed shifting.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Colm, what side is the throttle on? I might have a solution for you.....


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Colm, what side is the throttle on? I might have a solution for you.....


It's on the driver side. 
If I have to, I'll buy one with a passenger side TB.. I let my other one go with the 94' Turbo, since all the IC pipes were welded.
I'm trying to sort through my VW parts, I KNOW I have a NEUSPEED S/C top airbox somewhere.. It worked on my old 94' when it was N/A.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

March ram air kit. Google it. It's for a fox body mustang.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> March ram air kit. Google it. It's for a fox body mustang.












That looks really cool. I'm not sure where I'd be able to fit that vent, though.. Maybe cut a VR6 lip's center out and put it there? Or.. wait a minute.. An ibiza lip!! The one with the vents on each side. That would work nicely, I think!


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

GTI is all done with the engine, trans, and suspension. 
Waiting to buy a 5 lug swap set up, with DE brakes..
I think I have a vacuum leak somewhere. It isn't idling properly.
Gauges will be here soon (vacuum, oil pressure, oil temp), I have to get a 42dd triple gauge din, too.
Euro body parts and rebars will be here soon, the rebars are good weight reduction.
I also started gutting the interior, no back seat. I can't decide if I want to leave some trim back there or just leave it bare metal.
Battery relocation went well. I had a friend weld in a little box for the little motorcycle battery I got. That's also good for weight reduction, I'd say around 20lbs lighter than stock, and it's off the nose.
Also just got another MOROSO oilpan. I love these things. They're built so well. It'll definitely help when I'm swinging around corners.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

Hurt said:


> Gauges will be here soon (vacuum, oil pressure, oil temp), I have to get a 42dd triple gauge din, too.


how do you install a oil pressure and oil temp gauge in a MK3? I can't find a company that sells kits..
I'm doing my mk4 intake manifold swap asap.
what throttle cable is the best to use? Ive heard mk3 vr6, new beetle 2.0, and mk4 2.0.. 
will i have to extend any more wires than just the MAF?
Is it a good idea to install a catchcan instead of routing the vent house into the intake?


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## Jh0104 (Jul 15, 2010)

LöW N SLö said:


> what throttle cable is the best to use? Ive heard mk3 vr6, new beetle 2.0, and mk4 2.0.. *Yes*
> 
> will i have to extend any more wires than just the MAF? *No*
> 
> Is it a good idea to install a catchcan instead of routing the vent house into the intake? *Yes*



:laugh:


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

Jh0104 said:


> :laugh:


what about the IAT? I can't find a good diy article with pictures of that.. just befores and afters. I have the needed parts and i will make a custom cai for it. (i dont want to move my battery, tho). If anyone has examples and pictures please, help out!
i cant decide between a tt tuning 272 or 276 camshaft, either i can buy for 180 dollars on tts webpage, already got HD springs from a local for only 100 dollars... local guy also has a autotech 270 but i want more power than that, since i'm gonna do hd springs and all that. HURT is gonna install the springs for me so :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::beer::beer::beer:
anyone got opinions on both cams? i want dd ability but power at the same time. stock cylinder head, 2.25" exhaust with VIBRANT RACING muffler, mk4 intake manifold swap, tt chip (c2 on it's way) 42 draft design cat delete..

anyone got opinions?


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

Can someone aware me on mega squirt?

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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Go with the 276.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Coolalex, what do you want to know

sent from mobile internet device.


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

I saw earlier in the thread someone said 40+mpg is available at 70-80mph with mega squirt, but my searches are futile. I know nothing of it.

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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Anything is possible with a standalone. Check their website fir good info on programing onr

sent from mobile internet device.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

911_fan said:


> Go with the 276.


will i retain dd ability? The 276 is 200 dollars and the 272 is only 160. So..idk. will the C2 272* file work with the 276?
will i lose low end tq?
should i get an adjustable camshaft gear?


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

coolalex said:


> I saw earlier in the thread someone said 40+mpg is available at 70-80mph with mega squirt, but my searches are futile. I know nothing of it.
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


With my C2 race file chip, I personally get well over 30 MPG's on the highway with my 2.0 GTI with my 02A transmission with a TDI 5th if I drive sloooow.
2400 RPM = 65 MPH ---mid 30's
3000 RPM = 77 MPH --> low 30's
3500 RPM = 90 MPH ---> High 20's
4000 RPM = 100 MPH ---> upper-mid 20's

It's a built engine, too. Well, just a few engine mods:
276* NEUSPEED camshaft, set to +4*
OBD1 german cylinder head, ported/polished, decked .040", 3 angle valve job, HD springs
High compression headgasket
C2 race file chip
Neuspeed 2.4" exhaust
Neuspeed plug wires
USRT SRI with cone filter on the end for now (need a airbox set up.. ordered a MARCH ramair system)
MK4 AEG exhaust manifold
TT race downpipe

*Low n slow* - you should get the 276*. Even if it's 40 bucks more, shop around, NGP had it for 180 last I checked. An adjustable camgear set to +4* will give you a significant amount of low end tq without any high end loss (911_fan's research)! I will install the springs for you, not a problem.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Colm, I enjoy your updates and mod lists :thumbup: I know you're against dd'ing a 4k, but my good buddy has one with an 80% shim kit and bolt kit in his semi built 8v (mk3 Jetta). Honestly rpm's are usually higher than I would like, but the trade off is worth it imo. Makes the car crazy fun to drive. I think with a tall ass (.75? .71? Or Whatever) 5th would make it perfect.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

coolalex said:


> I saw earlier in the thread someone said 40+mpg is available at 70-80mph with mega squirt, but my searches are futile. I know nothing of it.
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


Go to MSextra.com and look at the product comparison


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## MYGTI_MA (May 3, 2010)

Ok so I have a mk3 TDI 5th and a Peolquin LSD going into my ATA tranny probably in the next week or so.

Looked over a few DIY's and minus the low profile 2 arm puller I think I have the tools needed to do it.

Any tips for a first timer other than go slow and don't break stuff.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MahTrek=] said:


> Colm, I enjoy your updates and mod lists :thumbup: I know you're against dd'ing a 4k, but my good buddy has one with an 80% shim kit and bolt kit in his semi built 8v (mk3 Jetta). Honestly rpm's are usually higher than I would like, but the trade off is worth it imo. Makes the car crazy fun to drive. I think with a tall ass (.75? .71? Or Whatever) 5th would make it perfect.


Problem would be the HUGE drop in gearing from gear 4-5, and a 4k's 4th gear at 6500 RPM, is 100 MPH.. you'd drop down to around 3500 rpm or lower.. so the top speed of the car would be like 100.



MYGTI_MA said:


> Ok so I have a mk3 TDI 5th and a Peolquin LSD going into my ATA tranny probably in the next week or so.
> 
> Looked over a few DIY's and minus the low profile 2 arm puller I think I have the tools needed to do it.
> 
> Any tips for a first timer other than go slow and don't break stuff.


Rebuild all of the shift linkage/cables. Replace all the bushings. Everything.
Enjoy your MPG's with that tall 5th!


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## MYGTI_MA (May 3, 2010)

Hurt said:


> Rebuild all of the shift linkage/cables. Replace all the bushings. Everything.
> Enjoy your MPG's with that tall 5th!


going with a diesel geek short shifter on a o2j tower.

anything else?


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MYGTI_MA said:


> going with a diesel geek short shifter on a o2j tower.
> 
> anything else?


Be careful. Don't skimp out on anything. Replace every single gasket, even if they look new. Don't skimp on good quality trans fluid. Take your time. Don't rush. 
When you get it in, and start it up and drive it for the first time.. Oh, the cable shift linkage 02J feels SOOOO much better than the rod linkage 020. It's night and day difference. No slop with the 02J.
My GTI is running an 02J shift box, short shift, etc. It feels amazing. Even better than a USRT 020 smartshift.


Got my GT ready for paint today. Dents pulled, dings filled, etc. Primer tomorrow, followed by a full respray of the entire car in it's original color. I'm even pulling the engine to get the bay.
I will also be tearing the interior out, replacing the heatercore banghead, and painting my floors with POR15. On the underside of the car, it'll be painted with POR15. Anything that is left exposed to the elements.. POR15.
Also getting all my chargepiping powdercoated while I'm getting this done. Probably the same color as my Neuspeed wheels. But.. the Neuspeed's are a little too big for my liking. May go back to 16's. Anyone have some nice 5x100 16x8's for sale? \
Also doing any routine maintenance. Fluids, belts, etc.. It'll be ready for the spring. Hopefully I can get a 1/4 mile run in there sometime! I can't wait to take it around a track. The B&G coils handle so amazingly well, I can take 90* turns at like any speed I want. So glad I didn't sell this car when I didn't meet my N/A hp goal. FI 8v = way to go if you want big power and reliability at the same time.
Also picked up a dual stage wet NX express system today. It has 2 nozzles, so I can set it up for 1 button = 50hp shot, both buttons = 100hp shot, etc. Great success!


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

All you need now is a set of these, and that car is DONE!


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

911_fan said:


> All you need now is a set of these, and that car is DONE!


:thumbup::beer:

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## MYGTI_MA (May 3, 2010)

and then race this guy.










p.s. when you lose, you die.


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

MYGTI_MA said:


> and then race this guy.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I bet he's got more than 100 grand under the hood of that car.

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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> All you need now is a set of these, and that car is DONE!


:laugh:
I still think the F&F Jetta's quite nice for circa 2000.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

I still google that picture time to time to awe at the craftsmanship of that direct port setup.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

I wish I knew what that motor put down. Minus the naaaawzzzz, it had a 260 neuspeed cam, intake, exhaust, ect. Mated to an autotragic, it may have put down...105whp? What was the wet kit, a 100 shot? Still not enough to beat Johnny Tran, though.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

AJmustDIE said:


> I still google that picture time to time to awe at the craftsmanship of that direct port setup.


 Me too.
It's quite nice. I wish I could make a direct port kit that nice. If I could, my GT would have been spraying long ago.


911_fan said:


> I wish I knew what that motor put down. Minus the naaaawzzzz, it had a 260 neuspeed cam, intake, exhaust, ect. Mated to an autotragic, it may have put down...105whp? What was the wet kit, a 100 shot? Still not enough to beat Johnny Tran, though.


It was a ABD 260* cam, eurosport camgear. "Custom" intake manifold, 150hp shot of Nitrous (direct port) Bosal header, Sebring tuning exhaust with dual tips, some 10mm plug wires, and some sort of chip for the OBD1 Auto.. by a company called "AMS". 
I'd guess around 105, maybe less depending on what exactly they did to that intake manifold.


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

Hurt said:


> and some sort of chip for the OBD1 Auto.. by a company called "AMS".


Google AMS, they are based in the Chicago area if I remember correctly. They are a super renowned company that builds a lot of race cars and specialty motors. My friend was able to purchase one of the seven SRT4 motors they ever built that were rated to 700+ HP. The motors sold for close to $7,000!! 

Sorry for getting off topic but basically they are a really awesome shop so the tune was probably sick.



Sent from my VS840 4G using Tapatalk 2


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

7k isn't a bad price given a sbc rebuild usually runs around 2k and BBC around 2.5k. That's just for a basic complete overhaul with pistons, cam, lifters, and bearings. I've built a nice full roller sbc 383 and seen the price go as high as 5k before the head work. 

I used to work in a machine shop that did a lot of classic work.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

ABD 260? WTF is an ABD 260? Is that, like, Autobahn Design? They never made their own cams. ABT used to sell cams, bit not for an 8v. I'm betting its a Neuspeed, and that ABD is a mistake.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> ABD 260? WTF is an ABD 260? Is that, like, Autobahn Design? They never made their own cams. ABT used to sell cams, bit not for an 8v. I'm betting its a Neuspeed, and that ABD is a mistake.


Not entirely sure. But the mod list of that Jetta is readily available on the interwebs. I'm not sure if Neuspeed was making 8v cams in 2000. I wasn't in the 8v game back then.
Maybe they meant Eurosport camshaft? Hmmmm.. The only website that seemed to have ever done a review of the car is "OVERBOOST", but.. that webpage doesn't exist anymore. I'll have to call up frankie muniz, and ask him to go rip his car apart or something lol :laugh:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Lol, neuspeed has been in the game since 1976, dude. And Eurosport sells Autotech and kent, not their own.

(Sorry I'm being so anal about this lol)


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Lol, neuspeed has been in the game since 1976, dude. And Eurosport sells Autotech and kent, not their own.
> 
> (Sorry I'm being so anal about this lol)


That was before I was born. 

Got my GTI all done today, except for the exterior.. my supposed color matched bumpers don't match at all (got them from the classifieds..:banghead I think they're some other white instead of OEM cool white.

Got my GT's engine and trans pulled. Primer is on the car. Paint soon. So excited..


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Probably gm arctic white or the Ford blend which I can't name off the top of my head. Had a body shop do that to me at work ordered a hood in IH white and got it delivered in Gm white, visibly at least 3 shades off. Usually body shops can fudge on the color code because of fading but not on 6 month old vehicles

sent from mobile internet device.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

blackspyder said:


> Probably gm arctic white or the Ford blend which I can't name off the top of my head. Had a body shop do that to me at work ordered a hood in IH white and got it delivered in Gm white, visibly at least 3 shades off. Usually body shops can fudge on the color code because of fading but not on 6 month old vehicles
> 
> sent from mobile internet device.



I think it's Artic, I'm not sure.. Don't really want to know at this point - just going to run full textured bumpers like a euro CL. Hell, the paint will get chipped anyway on the track.


Travis, I'm having trouble finding a march ram air kit. I can't find the retailer. Apparently the website doesn't sell them (weird).
I think it'll work really well with an ibiza lip. I'm looking forward to racing this thing. Even though it's not nearly as fast as the GT, it's still fun to throw into corners. I'm using 16" RS reps right now with 205's, and it feels really grippy. Turn in is great, but my buddy says it needs some camber adjustment in the front, good thing I have eurosport plates. I'm still waiting on my 5zigen wheels to come overnightfromja-pan.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Really? I found a seller on amazon.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Hurt, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mch-1410/overview/year/1988/make/ford/model/mustang

There is also a replacement parts kit that may have all the pieces you'll need.

When in doubt on fox body parts summit and jegs are the place to check
sent from mobile internet device.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Really? I found a seller on amazon.


I'm a fool. I had the amazon preference set to 1998 GTI 2.0.
Then I looked for it on Amazon, and they're unavailable.
Then I found another seller on Amazon and got it for 170 shipped.



blackspyder said:


> Hurt
> 
> There is also a replacement parts kit that may have all the pieces you'll need.
> 
> When in doubt on fox body parts summit and jegs are the place to check


Thanks, awesome, I didn't even think about summit. 

Hopefully I will be able to do similar experiments to what you did, Travis, with my vacuum gauge. If this duct is right infront of the ibiza opening, it should flow really well.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Dude, seriously, you need to come out my way. I got tons of ideas floating around this aging noggin. 
The info we could swap over some beers would be borderline Biblical.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Dude, seriously, you need to come out my way. I got tons of ideas floating around this aging noggin.
> The info we could swap over some beers would be borderline Biblical.


That would be great, the spring is coming! I can't wait to SCCA it. If you wanted, we could meet up at events and you could drive my GTI during events. That'd be a cool thing to do, yeah?
If we teamed up, we could probably make one hell of an 8v.

I'm debating doing another full out balls to the wall 2.0 8v build.
16v block and 8v head, high compression, bored to 2.1l, 308* cam, solid lifter conversion, Megasquirt etc,etc

It's either that or I buy my Supra back from my brother.

The Ibiza lip doesn't fit properly on the MK3 OEM NA bumper. My euro bumpers are still in paint, so I HOPE it fits the GTI front..

The Neuspeed 276* is a great cam. I can't say enough good things about it.. For an N/A, it pulls very, very hard. The SRI sounds amazing, it pulls to 7200 RPM with no issues.. Idle is great with the C2 chip, (well, the idle is kinda high at 1050 RPM). According to G-Tech, it does 0-60 in mid 6's, and the 1/4 in around 14.7.. Way faster than my friend's Integra GS-R with full bolt ons, and it I'm running 205 falkens. 

Fuel economy is great if I lug around in 5th.. Even around town. I put it in 5th, and put around town. 40 MPH is only 1500 RPM! LOL. 3000 RPM is 80. I'm getting more than 450 to the tank on 93.

The march ram air kit should work very well on the GTI. All I will need to do, really, is make sure the 5" ducting has enough clearance to get to the lower part of the bumper, and if it doesn't I will cut away some metal. Then, I'm going to have to either plastic weld it to the lip, or zip tie it. But before I do that, the intake pipe has to be pointed around 90*, so the march kit fits up correctly.
I wonder if I'll see any boost at all? Even 0.25 PSI is better than nothing.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Colm, I live (basically) across the street from Devens Airfield. They do auto-x events every weekend aaaaalllll year with every club in New England participating. I sometimes go watch the Porsches race. If you are in an event sometime, I'll be there. We can head back over to my place after for some of my famous BBQ and ill make sure I got both my wachusett growlers filled with fresh wobbly-pop. 

An idea for the lip. I took my VR lip and cut 4 holes inline. Then I plasti-welded the scoop to it. Worked well. That lip is a high pressure zone...more-so if you are running a splitter. Air literally gets forced into the openings.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Oh, and you won't see any boost. The march setup isn't air tight. Also, you would have to be traveling well over legal hiway speeds to get anything positive on your gauge. I tried....lol. At most, it will give you more power on the hiway when you kick down to 3rd gear.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Colm, I live (basically) across the street from Devens Airfield. They do auto-x events every weekend aaaaalllll year with every club in New England participating. I sometimes go watch the Porsches race. If you are in an event sometime, I'll be there. We can head back over to my place after for some of my famous BBQ and ill make sure I got both my wachusett growlers filled with fresh wobbly-pop.
> 
> An idea for the lip. I took my VR lip and cut 4 holes inline. Then I plasti-welded the scoop to it. Worked well. That lip is a high pressure zone...more-so if you are running a splitter. Air literally gets forced into the openings.



That sounds awesome, and a bunch of Porsche's on a track must be one hell of a symphony. 

Hopefully, I'll be able to run both the GTI and the GT. 
The GTI is just a car to flog, the GT is what I am hesitant to track.
I'm too afraid of chipping paint to actually give it a good flogging. The amount of clearcoat that's going on this car is ridiculous. 
I'm hoping the GTI will have good lap times, I got the camber tuned today. It turns in extremely well. EXTREMELY! The LSD really helps, too. The Koni Yellows ride amazing. It isn't MK3 forum-approved, though, at only 38mm lower than stock.
I can't wait to see what my 225/45/15's R888's will do to it! My buddy told me to go with 225 all around, instead of 205, like some people run staggered. He said that the swaybar settings, along with camber settings/rebound,etc, will sort of break the rear loose during hard corners if I lift off the throttle, hopefully wide tires in the rear will combat that. 
May even go with 245's, like on my GT.. I'm kind of sick of my 17's on that car. Too big. 16's are perfect on a MK3 in my honest opinion. 

One thing I'm definitely looking forward to this season is that my wife is very interested in getting a MK3 Cabrio. She wants one that's faster than her MK6 dd, and she wants to learn to do more than change oil on cars, so.. hopefully, it'll become reality. But I doubt it after her nails get dirty for the first time. :vampire:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Started actively searching for a Cabrio today.. Most likely, it'll be a 1.8T swap.. blasphemy, I know.

Anywho, Travis, do you have any pictures you would share with me of your ram air set up? I'm debating hacking up my ibiza lip, or using a POS JOM VR6 lip or a Vanwezel or whatever instead with holes like you're talking of.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Pics? No. Just pics of the head light assembly i modified to the back of March air box.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Pics? No. Just pics of the head light assembly i modified to the back of March air box.


I've seen those, I believe. Just the headlight's lense removed and the airbox right there, correct?

Would you be so kind as to mark out the spots you made holes on a picture of a VR6 lip?
Here's a couple good close ups I could find:




Obviously, if you're willing to help, pick the one you can best explain with.
Thanks so much.

PS: This is the lip I want to use, if possible.. but I don't want to ruin an expensive lip like that, when I could use a cheapo JOM and get the same results. 

Thanks T.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Use the Seat lip if you got it. In the long, it makes it easier to hang/mount. 

We can get more into it thru PM. :thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Got to drive a bone stock 8v cabrio today. Pushing a stock 8v is like trying to get a prostitute to go to church.. Pointless, and very, very difficult, and not worth the effort.

I really think VW should have given us a 130hp version of the ABA. 
Should've been easy, really, considering a mild cam like a 268* and a slightly more aggressive tune would be good for atleast 10whp, making the BHP around 130! Maybe if they used a VR6 exhaust system, that'd open things up, too, better flow more power blahblah.
And it'd have a useable powerband, most importantly.
Getting on the freeway with that cabrio was scary. :facepalm:
Even shifting at the rev limiter (I didn't even know OBD1 cars' limiters would kick in so quick, 6200 RPM) I barely got to 55 before the end of the ramp..
I'm used to blowing the tires off up the ramps. 

Anywho, I will be PMing you as soon as my kit comes in the mail, T. The SEAT lip will be used.. Looks like it'd look aggressive with a nice splitter on the bottom, and it'd function great in theory.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Sounds good bud. Still interested in seeing if we could do a fmic. Either way, i am looking forward to spring so i can start my exhaust & wheel refinishing project and lower the car back down and out of 4x4 winter mode.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

I finally got my SRI installed on the Corrado . Next stop, turbo plumbing and the EFR 6258!


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Pics or it didnt happen, Jeff!


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

So I got my 276* cam, c2 chip, hd valve springs, ported obd1 head, autotech camgear, and a 2.0 test pipe for my daily. I got it all second-hand in classifieds, I saved a lot of cash that way! I also got a Mk4 AEG intake manifold set up, which I will be installing too!

anyone have suggestions/warnings/ideas for me? Ive never installed a cylinder head before.. I also bought one of those headgaskets that up the compression ratio .5, so.. will I see over 125whp? my exhaust is only 2.25", so.. would that be worth upgrading to 2.5"? there's a guy on cl selling a magnaflow 2.5" for a VR6. 
hoping to go from 2.low n slo to 2.low n quick, :laugh:

thanks guys.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Replace the head bolts when you replace the gasket. Replace the timing belt and tensioner while youre in there if you haven't done it in some time.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Pics or it didnt happen, Jeff!


See my Facebook page (Jeff Linfert)


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

LöW N SLö said:


> So I got my 276* cam, c2 chip, hd valve springs, ported obd1 head, autotech camgear, and a 2.0 test pipe for my daily. I got it all second-hand in classifieds, I saved a lot of cash that way! I also got a Mk4 AEG intake manifold set up, which I will be installing too!
> 
> anyone have suggestions/warnings/ideas for me? Ive never installed a cylinder head before.. I also bought one of those headgaskets that up the compression ratio .5, so.. will I see over 125whp? my exhaust is only 2.25", so.. would that be worth upgrading to 2.5"? there's a guy on cl selling a magnaflow 2.5" for a VR6.
> hoping to go from 2.low n slo to 2.low n quick, :laugh:
> ...


My suggestion would be...

1) A Bentley manual
2) A 12-pack of you fav beer
3) An uninterrupted 2 days to do the work.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

911_fan said:


> My suggestion would be...
> 
> 1) A Bentley manual
> 2) A 12-pack of you fav beer
> 3) An uninterrupted 2 days to do the work.


:thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Sounds good bud. Still interested in seeing if we could do a fmic. Either way, i am looking forward to spring so i can start my exhaust & wheel refinishing project and lower the car back down and out of 4x4 winter mode.


That would be cool. I have my 94's old Kinetic front mount in the shop, just chilling on the wall. Hopefully it'll work on your bumper. I just don't want to have to hack your bumper up. 
I may have someone who would be able to weld up that muffler for you. 
Wheel refinishing? I could use some of that! I picked up a set of beat beat beat RS's for my GT, I'm going back to 16's for street driving.. I'll keep my 17's for the track. Smaller tires, though. (225's vs 245's)

Saw my paint today. 
Amazing. Can't wait to get the engine back in it and drive this beast.

I could use someone that can do a good refinish of wheels. I want these RS's to be white with a carbon fiber look lip, since I have quite a few carbon look interior parts. I've also just been fabricating a custom gauge set up, in the cupholder area. I blocked it off with a piece of flat carbon, and I'm hoping to fit 4 gauges in it. I'm tired of my 42dd design panel. 
I want a radio back!
In my A-Pillar pod, I'll leave Boost and A/F, since they are the most important.
I'm going to have:
Oil temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure, Nitrous Pressure, and 2 switches to arm the nitrous. 
I'm hoping I won't blow this thing up with the NX kit. I also need someone who is skilled at wiring to do the dual stage nitrous set up.. 2 50hp shots, heeelll yesssss. Tran, you're goin down.. see you at racewars..


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## CasuallyWreckless (Aug 27, 2007)

I'd say powder coat the face and just wrap the lips hurt:thumbup:


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

Are you really doing nitrous lol?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

CasuallyWreckless said:


> I'd say powder coat the face and just wrap the lips hurt:thumbup:


That's what I'm thinking. I'm not too good with vinyl wrapping, though, so I think I will have a professional do it.. Also have half caps with a carbon centre, and red logos. They look great. 



coolalex said:


> Are you really doing nitrous lol?


 Yes. Shouldn't be a problem, my motor is completely built. Bottom to top. Transmission is also extremely strong. Great traction with my 245's.


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## CasuallyWreckless (Aug 27, 2007)

Hurt said:


> That's what I'm thinking. I'm not too good with vinyl wrapping, though, so I think I will have a professional do it.. Also have half caps with a carbon centre, and red logos. They look great. .


i bet lips would just be a pita in general

how can i time just the intermediate shaft if my dist. is 180 out?


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

Hurt said:


> That's what I'm thinking. I'm not too good with vinyl wrapping, though, so I think I will have a professional do it.. Also have half caps with a carbon centre, and red logos. They look great.
> 
> 
> Yes. Shouldn't be a problem, my motor is completely built. Bottom to top. Transmission is also extremely strong. Great traction with my 245's.


Please do pm a build thread or something when that stuff starts to go on. Interested in build and results. :wave:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

CasuallyWreckless said:


> i bet lips would just be a pita in general
> 
> how can i time just the intermediate shaft if my dist. is 180 out?


Either take the belt off and spin the IM to line up with the dizzy, or pull the dizzy (harder) to line up with the IM. 

Take your pick.


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## CasuallyWreckless (Aug 27, 2007)

911_fan said:


> Either take the belt off and spin the IM to line up with the dizzy, or pull the dizzy (harder) to line up with the IM.
> 
> Take your pick.


Pull the belt it is:laugh: I've had cpl people tell me to just spin the dist. That just sounds sketchy to me :sly:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

You cant just spin the dizzy without pulling it up because its geared to the IM shaft. Put the cam gear to TDC, zip tie the belt to the gear, loosen the tensioner, slide the belt off and spin the IM gear till the rotor is on the mark.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> You cant just spin the dizzy without pulling it up because its geared to the IM shaft. Put the cam gear to TDC, zip tie the belt to the gear, loosen the tensioner, slide the belt off and spin the IM gear till the rotor is on the mark.


x2
Be careful with the camgear/belt. Use a really good ziptie or some sort of clamp.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

911_fan said:


> My suggestion would be...
> 
> 1) A Bentley manual
> 2) A 12-pack of you fav beer
> 3) An uninterrupted 2 days to do the work.



12 beers in 2 days? Id die.

i got it done, with the help of mr. Bentley. 
buuut having trouble with my c2 chip. it rev hangs when I first start the car. then til it warms up, the revs will climb from idle to around 1300 or so and go down and back up. :screwy:
it's quick now!! it really goes balls to the wall at 6k rpms. the sweetspot feels like it's around 5500-7000. thanks 911_fan for the advice on the camgear.. the +4* advance is what I set it to, and i dont think i lost any low end tq over my 260*.. maybe the c2 chip has something to do with that? 
next item on my list of to do's is short shift! :thumbup:
then a mk4 manifold!
I'm using a stock airbox and filter, some people say to get a k&n but is it worth the 60 dollars? is there any mods worth doing to the airbox for more power? i'm thinking that i should unhook the warm-air hose on the back and make it routed to the bumper vents on the bottom. free cold air> hot air!


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## TravisTheD (Apr 15, 2011)

:laugh:12 beers in 4 hours is more like it lol


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

mk3jetta-man said:


> :laugh:12 beers in 4 hours is more like it lol


Seriously. Lol

Be patient with the rev hang. It should adapt and even out. If its the cam chip, it should be at 1100 rpm idle anyway. You can alway adjust it down with vagcom.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

911_fan said:


> Seriously. Lol
> 
> Be patient with the rev hang. It should adapt and even out. If its the cam chip, it should be at 1100 rpm idle anyway. You can alway adjust it down with vagcom.


the secret button thing that makes the rpms display digitally says 1050 rpms at idle, it doesn't try to stall or nothing so I think i'll leave it there. how long does it take it to adapt? tt's chip wasn't like this. that was just start it wait 2 minutes and drive.. 
it goes pretty good now. cant wait for my mk4 manifold swap or a Long runner intake.. then i would really be happy with the 2.low!


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

As long as you waited for the throttle body to stop buzzing before you initially turned it on, then it should adapt after about 7 cold starts and stop fluctuating. Also, you might notice ot wanting to stall if you turned your AC on and came to stops. let it adapt and it will be fine. Keep in mind, this tune will bring out ANY sensor or vacuum issue the stock tune hid. So if it doesnt adapt, start diagnosing. 

And yea, 1050, not 1100 for idle. Also, you can literally bring the idle back to stock level and it wont stall or anything. Thats where i had mine. I hate a high idle and dont mind the lope.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

LöW N SLö said:


> 12 beers in 2 days? Id die.
> 
> i got it done, with the help of mr. Bentley.
> buuut having trouble with my c2 chip. it rev hangs when I first start the car. then til it warms up, the revs will climb from idle to around 1300 or so and go down and back up. :screwy:
> ...


Good work. I told you you could do it by yourself. :thumbup:
As far as the C2 chip goes, It's normal for them to have a bit of rev hang for a while. Maybe 10 cold starts or so. It'll go away after that, if you're lucky.

The stock airbox flows surprisingly well on these 2.0's. I'd keep it factory. If you REALLY want a CAI, get an Autotech CAI. They relocate the filter down behind the front bumper, and that will be greatly beneficial if you want more HP. 
Or you could make your own out of piping to mimic the Autotech piece.
Buuuut, if you are going to do a MK4 manifold swap, you will no longer be able to use it. You will need to relocate your battery to run any sort of CAI set up with the MK4 manifold swap. Otherwise, you'll be sucking in hot air from the engine bay. If you do relocate the battery, you can use a MK4 CAI. :thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Should I add a transmission section? 
Like short shifters, different transmissions for better gearing, etc.


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## TravisTheD (Apr 15, 2011)

Hurt said:


> Should I add a transmission section?
> Like short shifters, different transmissions for better gearing, etc.


yes please lol that would be amazing and even more helpful


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

love this thread
911_fan you were right, my chip is fine now! 
runs good, idles good. fast for a 2.0


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Sweet.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

911_fan said:


> Sweet.


next upgrade is my mk4 manifold swap, i got all the stuff at the junkyard for 25 bucks! is it worth keeping, or should i save money and get a long runner intake from USRT? the car is my dd. i hear the mk4 manifold is good for tq?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

How long is it going to take you to get the $700 for the SRI? Its worth putting the mkiv manifold on if you plan on getting an SRI with the throttle on the drivers side. You need to extend the maf cable anyway as well as run a vr throttle cable.


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

Hows it feel? A lot quicker?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

911_fan said:


> How long is it going to take you to get the $700 for the SRI? Its worth putting the mkiv manifold on if you plan on getting an SRI with the throttle on the drivers side. You need to extend the maf cable anyway as well as run a vr throttle cable.


 well I could buy one in maybe 2 or 3 weeks if I save all of my money that I don't absolutely NEED to spend, but i'd prefer to save up over a longer period of time because I'm a full time student with a part time job, so.. money gets tight at times.


coolalex said:


> Hows it feel? A lot quicker?


 yeah tons quicker. tt 260 cam used to pull from 2000 to 6000 pretty hard, definitely better than stock, and would keep revving well into the red, but without great results.. and the 276* cam pulls to off the RPM gauge. I can chirp 3rd gear if I shift real fast. i have noticed a little low end tq gone, but its minimal.. like under 2000 rpm.. and i never drop below that if i pay attention to my driving. C2 chip helped with the tq loss prevention, i think, and so did 911_fan's advice for camshaft gear setting. the car feels like it wants to rev now. but i also increased the compression ratio by adding the 90mm headgasket HURT recommended. instead of shifting gears at 2500-3000 rpm, i now shift at around 3000-3500.. my 0-60mph tests went from 8 seconds flat to mid to late 6's. didn"t get to go faster than like 75 on the highway, so idk about top end power gains, but the car really wants to stretch its legs..


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## SPJosh1890 (Sep 4, 2010)

LöW N SLö said:


> my 0-60mph tests went from 8 seconds flat to mid to late 6's.QUOTE]
> 
> 
> 
> how accurate is that? i dont mean to test you, im just curious as a future cam purchaser.


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

LöW N SLö said:


> well I could buy one in maybe 2 or 3 weeks if I save all of my money that I don't absolutely NEED to spend, but i'd prefer to save up over a longer period of time because I'm a full time student with a part time job, so.. money gets tight at times.
> 
> yeah tons quicker. tt 260 cam used to pull from 2000 to 6000 pretty hard, definitely better than stock, and would keep revving well into the red, but without great results.. and the 276* cam pulls to off the RPM gauge. I can chirp 3rd gear if I shift real fast. i have noticed a little low end tq gone, but its minimal.. like under 2000 rpm.. and i never drop below that if i pay attention to my driving. C2 chip helped with the tq loss prevention, i think, and so did 911_fan's advice for camshaft gear setting. the car feels like it wants to rev now. but i also increased the compression ratio by adding the 90mm headgasket HURT recommended. instead of shifting gears at 2500-3000 rpm, i now shift at around 3000-3500.. my 0-60mph tests went from 8 seconds flat to mid to late 6's. didn"t get to go faster than like 75 on the highway, so idk about top end power gains, but the car really wants to stretch its legs..


Thanks for the review man. So would you recomend going the 260 route if I don't want to spend the extra/money/time on replacing the springs and all that, or is it definitaly worth it? I really dont care at all about top end. I just want that low end torque is what I desire.

And along with SPJOSH I am pretty curious about that 8 to 6 second transformation, thats pretty fast.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

SPJosh1890 said:


> my 0-60mph tests went from 8 seconds flat to mid to late 6's.QUOTE]
> 
> 
> 
> how accurate is that? i dont mean to test you, im just curious as a future cam purchaser.





coolalex said:


> Thanks for the review man. So would you recomend going the 260 route if I don't want to spend the extra/money/time on replacing the springs and all that, or is it definitaly worth it? I really dont care at all about top end. I just want that low end torque is what I desire.
> 
> And along with SPJOSH I am pretty curious about that 8 to 6 second transformation, thats pretty fast.



0-60 was 8 flat with the 2.25" exhaust, intake, tt non-cam chip, and tt 260* camshaft,
it's now obd1 ported/polished head and .040" off the head, higher compression head gasket, hd springs, light weight lifters, 276* cam with adjustable camshaft gear, and C2 race file chip. Oh yeah and a 42dd test pipe and 2.25 exhaust
now 6.5 is the lowest 0-60 ive gotten with a great launch on bridgestone potenzas and good clutch slippage so i dont spin the wheels, and it chirps 3rd.
IMO the 260 cam is great.. some people dont think its worth it, but i think it's worth the 130 bucks.. good low end, great dd cam for me. still got around 400 miles a tank with it!


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

Is it also better to go 260 over anything 270+ if i plan on going turbo by next summer?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

No. Learn how what what different cam profile do to/for your engine. I have a VERY good write-up in my sticky thread at the top of this forum.


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

fo·rum 
/ˈfôrəm/
Noun
A meeting or medium where ideas and views on a particular issue can be exchanged


Lol @ people who get mad when people ask questions. :screwy:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Please dont start that bullsh*t in here. I gave a suggestion to you. Hell, I even bumped the thread I referenced to you. Apparently, you were too busy thinking up an ******* response to look.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?t=4966762

Now go read.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

coolalex said:


> fo·rum
> /ˈfôrəm/
> Noun
> A meeting or medium where ideas and views on a particular issue can be exchanged
> ...


He wasn't angry. He posted a very helpful response.. I guess you just interpreted it wrong. Anywho, don't cause, or try to cause, arguements in this thread. Ever. Idc what anyone says to you, man. We don't want to get this thread locked.. it helps lots of people. Over 100,000, as a matter of fact!

The duration itsself of a camshaft isn't all that effects the overall performance of a camshaft in a boosted application.
I'd recommend a 268/260 for anything under 20 PSI on stock valve springs. If you upgrade valve springs, or run more boost, get a 276* 114lca cam. That's what I run, and it pulls from idle to 8000+ if I let it. From dyno runs I've discovered shifting at ~7500 is the best for my application.


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## 94GLSIII2.0 (Mar 5, 2013)

Hey do you guys know if that air box mod can be done in a stock GLS. I have a 94 2.0 and was wondering if it would benefit me or if it's only for mk3.

sent from my Droid RAZR Maxx JB


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

94GLSIII2.0 said:


> Hey do you guys know if that air box mod can be done in a stock GLS. I have a 94 2.0 and was wondering if it would benefit me or if it's only for mk3.
> 
> sent from my Droid RAZR Maxx JB


of course it can be done. 93-99 is MK3.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Just dont remove the velocity stack or the maf screen.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Swiss cheese air box is just about the best air intake mod for the 2.0 without major changes like an aeg or sri

sent from mobile internet device.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

blackspyder said:


> Swiss cheese air box is just about the best air intake mod for the 2.0 without major changes like an aeg or sri
> 
> sent from mobile internet device.


I took my airbox's warm air hose and routed it to the bumper vents for more cold air.. works good..
I'm gonna do a AEG mani swap so I can't use a autotech CAI, but if i could I would. the autotech cai is better than stock isnt it? what about Neuspeed p-flo?


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## 94GLSIII2.0 (Mar 5, 2013)

Thanks for the response guys. I've had my jetta for about two years but in just now realizing what a dependable machine I have. So i have been researching quick and somewhat inexpensive ways to increase performance and durability. Gonna start with some new plugs. Have not had any problems this winter but i know they are well over due. I'm not really car tech savy so i didnt kno if mk3 things could be done to stock engines. I plan on staying around this thread alot of good info. And who knows maybe one day I will trade the GLS for a Mk3..:thumbup:





blackspyder said:


> Swiss cheese air box is just about the best air intake mod for the 2.0 without major changes like an aeg or sri
> 
> sent from mobile internet device.


 This is about what I was gonna do but not so much Swiss. Too many holes allows for rain and crud up in the filter which could end up bad. Was Just gonna make a few slits and look at redirecting the warm air host to the bumper. Any specific filter you recommend? . Any panel filter is what I have gathered. thanks again guys and glad to be a member of this great Vw community. 


sent from my Droid RAZR Maxx JB


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## 94GLSIII2.0 (Mar 5, 2013)

Double post sry


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## TravisTheD (Apr 15, 2011)

"And who knows maybe one day I will trade the GLS for a Mk3.."


dude the GLS is a MK3..u have a 1994 MK3 jetta GLS 2.0 8v......mk is by year from 1993-1999(early) is MK3 ....i have the same car but mines a 98 GLS lol....u cant upgrade to a MK3 if u already have one lol ur not in a MK1 or MK2


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

94GLSIII2.0 said:


> This is about what I was gonna do but not so much Swiss. Too many holes allows for rain and crud up in the filter which could end up bad. Was Just gonna make a few slits and look at redirecting the warm air host to the bumper. Any specific filter you recommend? . Any panel filter is what I have gathered. thanks again guys and glad to be a member of this great Vw community.
> 
> 
> sent from my Droid RAZR Maxx JB


If you gut your airbox properly like in this DIY:
http://rayray086.blogspot.com/2007/03/airbox-mod-done.html
you shouldn't have any problems in wet weather at all.. crud won't get past the filter anyway.
the usrt panel filter is only 25 dollars, compared to k&N which is 60. HURT recommends a non-oiled panel filter like from aFe. Thats what i have in my airbox with some mods.. cut a big portion out and rerouted the hot air hose to the front bumper vent so i get constant cold air just by pushing through it..


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## 94GLSIII2.0 (Mar 5, 2013)

mk3jetta-man said:


> "And who knows maybe one day I will trade the GLS for a Mk3.."
> 
> 
> dude the GLS is a MK3..u have a 1994 MK3 jetta GLS 2.0 8v......mk is by year from 1993-1999(early) is MK3 ....i have the same car but mines a 98 GLS lol....u cant upgrade to a MK3 if u already have one lol ur not in a MK1 or MK2


Lol. Told you I was a newb. I kinda figured that out myself last night. But thanks for clearing that up for me. I had always thought the mk3 was a turbo engine. Didn't help when most pics I looked at in the pics thread were mainly hatchbacks. Well we can ask say I had a senior moment. thanks again for clearing that up 

Hey low n slow.. 
I'm gonna do that mod tomorrow. Any specific way you re routed that hose? And what exact hose are you talking of? 

sent from my Droid RAZR Maxx JB



sent from my Droid RAZR Maxx JB


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

94GLSIII2.0 said:


> Lol. Told you I was a newb. I kinda figured that out myself last night. But thanks for clearing that up for me. I had always thought the mk3 was a turbo engine. Didn't help when most pics I looked at in the pics thread were mainly hatchbacks. Well we can ask say I had a senior moment. thanks again for clearing that up
> 
> Hey low n slow..
> I'm gonna do that mod tomorrow. Any specific way you re routed that hose? And what exact hose are you talking of?


there is no mk3 turbo gasoline engine. the only engines that came turbo in mk3's were diesel.
in the USA we got the 2.0 8v, the 1.9TDI, and the 2.8 VR6.
You have the 2.0 8v
there's a hose on the back of the airbox that connects to the exhaust manifolds heatshield. its for cold starts, there's a flapper in there. it lets warm air into the airbox so you can get the car up to temp fast and have heat quickly.. it's good in the winter, but.. it's useless in the warm months. so i took the flapper out, and I took that hose, measured the ID of it and routed it down to the front bumper's vent (bottom passenger side) and I connected it to a small velocity stack that's off a mk3 airbox, so air goes in the velocity stack when i'm driving, straight into the back of the airbox.. so it has 2 ways of getting nice cold air. the snorkel in the front fender, and the air that goes in that vent. you can't even see any mods to the bumper if you arent looking for it. its a great free mod.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Double post


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

LöW N SLö said:


> there is no mk3 turbo gasoline engine. the only engines that came turbo in mk3's were diesel.
> in the USA we got the 2.0 8v, the 1.9TDI, and the 2.8 VR6.
> You have the 2.0 8v
> there's a hose on the back of the airbox that connects to the exhaust manifolds heatshield. its for cold starts, there's a flapper in there. it lets warm air into the airbox so you can get the car up to temp fast and have heat quickly.. it's good in the winter, but.. it's useless in the warm months. so i took the flapper out, and I took that hose, measured the ID of it and routed it down to the front bumper's vent (bottom passenger side) and I connected it to a small velocity stack that's off a mk3 airbox, so air goes in the velocity stack when i'm driving, straight into the back of the airbox.. so it has 2 ways of getting nice cold air. the snorkel in the front fender, and the air that goes in that vent. you can't even see any mods to the bumper if you arent looking for it. its a great free mod.


Dear God.....

Flapper is for emissions, not for faster warm up or heat. Its to trick the O2 sensor on cold starts (when its still in open loop warm up phase) to not run as rich till it heats up and reads correctly. ( closed loop operation) 

You heat depends on how fast the coolant heats up. And thats by getting in the car and driving it.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

911_fan said:


> Dear God.....
> 
> Flapper is for emissions, not for faster warm up or heat. Its to trick the O2 sensor on cold starts (when its still in open loop warm up phase) to not run as rich till it heats up and reads correctly. ( closed loop operation)
> 
> You heat depends on how fast the coolant heats up. And thats by getting in the car and driving it.


no need to get upset about something so little :screwy:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Posting misinformation annoys me.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

I feel the need to stick my nose in here. 
1) the US got the 1.8t gas motor, for the most part its the same motor as the 2.0 in the same way the 287 sbc is the same as the 400 sbc

2) the flapper is primarily used as 911 described it and that's why its on the car. However it also does slow exhaust gasses, keeping them in the manifold longer, which warms the manifold and the head too. Its a byproduct not the reason though. Yeah I'd remove it too I've removed so many similar flaps from old Ford and chevy v8s that were always broke in some form or another

sent from mobile internet device.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

blackspyder said:


> I feel the need to stick my nose in here.
> 1) the US got the 1.8t gas motor, for the most part its the same motor as the 2.0 in the same way the 287 sbc is the same as the 400 sbc
> 
> 2) the flapper is primarily used as 911 described it and that's why its on the car. However it also does slow exhaust gasses, keeping them in the manifold longer, which warms the manifold and the head too. Its a byproduct not the reason though. Yeah I'd remove it too I've removed so many similar flaps from old Ford and chevy v8s that were always broke in some form or another
> ...


The mkiii never got the 1.8t. That engine only became available on the mkiv.

I dont understand where you're coming from with it slowing the exhaust. The SAI pump blows the air into holes under the exhaust ports, then it exits right where the head meets the manifold. The added air from the SAI with the (cold start rich) exhaust leans it out, lowering cold start emissions. What am I missing?


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

FINALLY got my SEAT lip today. It looks like the march scoop will line up pretty darn well with it. 
While brainstorming, I thought of a good idea - 
Find a beat set of hella dual rounds, make the inner lights into brake duct hoses or ram air hoses. 

Installed the MOROSO oilpan, got an aftermarket oilcooler bolted up.. Trying to find a good aftermarket radiator for the 2 litre. Can't find any at all.. Got my gauge set up done, too. 4 gauges total inside of the cupholder area. I put a piece of carbon fiber around it, so it's basically a flat panel. I have:
Oil pressure, Oil temperature
Vacuum, fuel pressure.
Also put in a kill switch in the middle of the gauge overlay. 
No more drinks in the car! 
Also did a port job on the throttle body. Looks good now. Got rid of that ugly ramp. For a N/A 2 litre, it hauls. Manual steering rack, manual windows, blahblah. Not a super comfortable dd, but it should be a good track car. 
Considering making the door cards out of carbon or ABS or aluminum, just for that track car look.. and the weight savings. 

Neuspeed 276* is my new favorite N/A cam profile. :laugh:


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

schiesse, I gotta catch up with all I have missed on this thread!

my ABA still isn't turbocharged sadly 

money woes, had to move, new job; but luckily my new job I am not delivering pizza all the time which makes the Mk3 and my wallet more happy! 


so we will see what this spring/summer entails

:beer:'s to all my ABA amigos!


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## TravisTheD (Apr 15, 2011)

911_fan said:


> The mkiii never got the 1.8t. That engine only became available on the mkiv.
> 
> I dont understand where you're coming from with it slowing the exhaust. The SAI pump blows the air into holes under the exhaust ports, then it exits right where the head meets the manifold. The added air from the SAI with the (cold start rich) exhaust leans it out, lowering cold start emissions. What am I missing?


BFI is making a 1.8t conversion for mk3s 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5952142-BFI-MK3-1.8T-Drop-In-Conversion-Project


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

mk3jetta-man said:


> BFI is making a 1.8t conversion for mk3s
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5952142-BFI-MK3-1.8T-Drop-In-Conversion-Project


I gaurantee a turbo kit on an aba ewill have more hp for cheaper.

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## TravisTheD (Apr 15, 2011)

this can b true but dropping a mk4 1.8t in to a mk3 is awesome and if u get an AWE engine u have 180 stock hp. all the other mk4 1.8ts have 150 hp


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

And that is neither inexpensive or for the average doityourselfer. Would rather turbo a 2 liter than go through the hassle of swapping in a 1.8L engine. At least, thats a weekend job at most and doesn't require pulling an engine.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> And that is neither inexpensive or for the average doityourselfer. Would rather turbo a 2 liter than go through the hassle of swapping in a 1.8L engine. At least, thats a weekend job at most and doesn't require pulling an engine.



I agree, it is way easier to turbo a 2 litre. It took me maybe.. 12 hours? To install my SRI, new cam, and a full kinetic turbo kit on my old 94 with exhaust bolted up and everything. And ABA-T's are pretty quick even at low boost levels. :thumbup:



buuuut my wife's Cabrio project will most likely be a 1.8T using BFI's kit, if they finish it in time. :laugh: If not, BBM ABA/16v.


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

mk3jetta-man said:


> this can b true but dropping a mk4 1.8t in to a mk3 is awesome and if u get an AWE engine u have 180 stock hp. all the other mk4 1.8ts have 150 hp


I believe you mean an AWP and that's 180 crank hp... which can be achieved on stock internals with relatively low psi of boost on a super 60 or even smaller turbo for much cheaper!

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## TravisTheD (Apr 15, 2011)

lol yup AWP my bad...i thought something didnt look right when i sent it lol


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

Hurt said:


> Neuspeed 276* is my new favorite N/A cam profile. :laugh:


what makes the neuspeed cam better than the tt?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

More lift and a more aggressive profile. Its comparable to the Schrick.


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

Is there any info here about carbs? Saw some r1 carbs for cheap. Have a couple lower manifolds I can cut and try to fit. I'm just not sure about fuel delivery and spark. 

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

PMLyf said:


> Is there any info here about carbs? Saw some r1 carbs for cheap. Have a couple lower manifolds I can cut and try to fit. I'm just not sure about fuel delivery and spark.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


You can run some sort of standalone management with carbs on an 8v, but not many people carb ABA's. It's not worth it. Motronic does a fine job, and MS does an even better job.


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## TravisTheD (Apr 15, 2011)

911_fan said:


> More lift and a more aggressive profile. Its comparable to the Schrick.


what about neuspeed vs autotech cams


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

mk3jetta-man said:


> what about neuspeed vs autotech cams


Autotech? They only make a 260/256 and a 270. No 276*.

The Autotech 260/256 has a wider lobe centre than Neuspeed's 260. 
Also has a bigger valve overlap by 0.5*
It has slightly more lift on the intake side, but much less lift on the exhaust side. 
The Autotech cam's exhaust lift is actually worse than stock..

Personally, I have had great experiences with NEUSPEED cams. I had a 268* NEUSPEED cam, and it was great. My NEUSPEED 276* is wonderful. Great street/race cam. 
Now, I have ran an Autotech 260/256 all of one time on a Corrado G60. I didn't like it. Not enough power. 
Meh. 
I know Dan J. Reed had a 260/256 on his 2 litre and he liked it. 
I had an Autotech 270* in multiple cars. I liked it. Not a bad cam at all. But the difference between a 270* and a 276* is just.. like apples to oranges. The 276* gives like 10whp more. If someone gets a HD spring upgrade, and gets a autotech 270 instead of a TT 276*, there's something wrong with them. Or they're misinformed. 276 is completely streetable. 
My NEUSPEED 276* cammed GTI got over 400 miles on my last tank of 93 octane. :thumbup:


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

coolalex said:


> I gaurantee a turbo kit on an aba will have more hp for cheaper.


agree 1000%


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

PMLyf said:


> Is there any info here about carbs? Saw some r1 carbs for cheap. Have a couple lower manifolds I can cut and try to fit. I'm just not sure about fuel delivery and spark.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


I like carbs, I think they"re rad due to their antiquated simplicity (I've even seen a few good numbers on ABA's with carbs...) 

I was into doing a carb setup when I was into d-series SOHC Honda engines... but yeh the main problem is emissions and daily driving em...


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> I like carbs, I think they"re rad due to their antiquated simplicity (I've even seen a few good numbers on ABA's with carbs...)
> 
> I was into doing a carb setup when I was into d-series SOHC Honda engines... but yeh the main problem is emissions and daily driving em...


I just want that really deep sound from the engine. Seems like a relatively cheap mod that u can afford atm. 

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

PMLyf said:


> I just want that really deep sound from the engine. Seems like a relatively cheap mod that u can afford atm.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


Shoulda got a v6 or 8

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

coolalex said:


> Shoulda got a v6 or 8
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


I have a vr6 but I haven't put any money into it yet. 

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> antiquated simplicity


Give me efi or give me death. I've done my time with carbs, I'll mega squirt every v8 I build from now on

sent from mobile internet device.


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## TravisTheD (Apr 15, 2011)

Hurt said:


> Autotech? They only make a 260/256 and a 270. No 276*.
> 
> The Autotech 260/256 has a wider lobe centre than Neuspeed's 260.
> Also has a bigger valve overlap by 0.5*
> ...


good info i was lookin at the auto tech 270 cam with hd sprins on mjm for both my 2.0 and my gfs 1.8...maybe after awile i ill do a 276 but the 270 is a kit with everything


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

mk3jetta-man said:


> good info i was lookin at the auto tech 270 cam with hd sprins on mjm for both my 2.0 and my gfs 1.8...maybe after awile i ill do a 276 but the 270 is a kit with everything


Link to this kit? Never mind I found the kit. See. Sent a bit expensive? 

And how does a 288 cam run in these cars? 

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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

It runs well, but without head work and a MKII transmission, its useless below 4000rpms. And it needs a high idle to pull enough vacuum to stop the car. 9" of vacuum ain't much. This is NOT a cam for the average daily driver. Its just not suited for it. 

Check the torque curve on my 276 vs. 288 dyno










Note: the dyno operator did a crappy job doing my 288 cam runs. Let off too early and the car wasnt strapped down well enough. (Dyno day assembly line)


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

911_fan said:


> It runs well, but without head work and a MKII transmission, its useless below 4000rpms. And it needs a high idle to pull enough vacuum to stop the car. 9" of vacuum ain't much. This is NOT a cam for the average daily driver. Its just not suited for it.
> 
> Check the torque curve on my 276 vs. 288 dyno
> 
> ...


Tanks. I'll probably just pick up a 276 and some hd valve springs. What else is needed on an obd2 head? Besides lifters to ware match the cam. 

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

If you are in the head with the cam out, and the lifters out, i see no reason why you shouldn't replace the valve stem seals at the same time. No special tools needed; a set of needle nose to pull them off and a 10mm deep socket to push the new ones on. They are inexpensive and worth replacing on a 100,000+ mile head. New lifters with the cam, new cam oil seal, upper manifold gasket and new valve cover gasket. All should be replaced due to wear and tear. Do it right once, ya?


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

911_fan said:


> If you are in the head with the cam out, and the lifters out, i see no reason why you shouldn't replace the valve stem seals at the same time. No special tools needed; a set of needle nose to pull them off and a 10mm deep socket to push the new ones on. They are inexpensive and worth replacing on a 100,000+ mile head. New lifters with the cam, new cam oil seal, upper manifold gasket and new valve cover gasket. All should be replaced due to wear and tear. Do it right once, ya?


Perfect, already have a few sets of valve seals too! What else have you done to your car? Cause 140hp seems like a lot more than the 10hp gain claimed for this cam

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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Maybe 10hp over whatever gain you get from the 276.


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## 94GLSIII2.0 (Mar 5, 2013)

911_fan said:


> Just dont remove the velocity stack or the maf screen.


 Why do you say leave in the stack? The couple mods i saw they took it out. 


blackspyder said:


> Swiss cheese air box is just about the best air intake mod for the 2.0 without major changes like an aeg or sri
> sent from mobile internet device.


Would you mind explaining what aeg or sri is? For the newb please .. 

sent from my Droid RAZR Maxx JB


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

"aeg" is referring to the mk4 8v intake manifold swap.. the engine code is AEG. this is a mk4 intake manifold swap:









it flows like 30% better than the stock mk3 2.0 manifold and gives loads more TQ too.

the SRI means a short runner intake manifold..
that's this:









SRI's flow exceptionally well most of the time on these motors.. usrt's proof of over 10whp on a stock engine.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

94GLSIII2.0 said:


> Why do you say leave in the stack? The couple mods i saw they took it out.


Those who remove the stock velocity stack from the MAF are idiots that dont know what they are doing. Velocity stacks increase the flow rate into the intake by about 20-25%. By removing it, you create power dead spots in the rpm band. Its there for a reason.


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## 94GLSIII2.0 (Mar 5, 2013)

Anyone know of a tutorial for changing 
Out window regulators? With the door panel off i cant really "figure" out what to do. I was looking for the automatic to manual conversion if anyone knows of those regulators 
sent from my Droid RAZR Maxx JB


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

94GLSIII2.0 said:


> Anyone know of a tutorial for changing
> Out window regulators? With the door panel off i cant really "figure" out what to do. I was looking for the automatic to manual conversion if anyone knows of those regulators
> sent from my Droid RAZR Maxx JB


Because Window regulators help make a cheap reliable 2.0....

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## 94GLSIII2.0 (Mar 5, 2013)

Excuse me.. Wrong place my bad. But found the link if anyone cares

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?t=1015107
DIY - Replacing the front door window regulator clips and/or door lock module

sent from my Droid RAZR Maxx JB


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

PMLyf said:


> I just want that really deep sound from the engine. Seems like a relatively cheap mod that u can afford atm.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


Get an SRI. The sound from my GTI's is intoxicating. Better than my GT's sound, 100%. All the GT does is WHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE BAP WHEEEEEE :laugh:


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Hurt said:


> All the GT does is WHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE BAP WHEEEEEE :laugh:


:laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

Hurt said:


> Get an SRI. The sound from my GTI's is intoxicating. Better than my GT's sound, 100%. All the GT does is WHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE BAP WHEEEEEE :laugh:


If i could find one that wasn't so expensive. Can't justify spending 300 on an sri

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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

I have one I'm selling for cheap if anyone needs one, only issue is the threaded fuel rail holes... the threads pulled out so they will have to be helicoiled in order to bolt down the fuel rail

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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Get an SRI. The sound from my GTI's is intoxicating. Better than my GT's sound, 100%. All the GT does is WHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE BAP WHEEEEEE :laugh:


Yeah SRIs do sound awesome and I love the much improved midrange and top end. The Corrado is now a 2.kinda slow


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

02vwgolf said:


> I have one I'm selling for cheap if anyone needs one, only issue is the threaded fuel rail holes... the threads pulled out so they will have to be helicoiled in order to bolt down the fuel rail
> 
> Sent from my VS840 4G using Tapatalk 2


Pmed

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## TravisTheD (Apr 15, 2011)

PMLyf said:


> If i could find one that wasn't so expensive. Can't justify spending 300 on an sri
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2



where are you finding them for 300 ....the ones from usrt are 700 bucks


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

mk3jetta-man said:


> where are you finding them for 300 ....the ones from usrt are 700 bucks


 I thought I had that wrong. Couldn't remember what the price was so I just threw out a number. 

Is it really worth it to spend 700 or would it be cheaper to make one? 

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## TravisTheD (Apr 15, 2011)

PMLyf said:


> I thought I had that wrong. Couldn't remember what the price was so I just threw out a number.
> 
> Is it really worth it to spend 700 or would it be cheaper to make one?
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


 
i think it is worth it besides the fact that i dont kno how to make one ...but even if i did kno how to make one id still probably go with the usrt one so i dont F*** anything up lol


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

mk3jetta-man said:


> i think it is worth it besides the fact that i dont kno how to make one ...but even if i did kno how to make one id still probably go with the usrt one so i dont F*** anything up lol


 Can't be that hard. Aba has equal length for each port right? I have a friend who can weld, id just need the materials and right measurements. But your probably right. A lot more work that way. Wondering how much in materials it would cost. 

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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Utilizing your stock lower manifold and welding it onto a plenum will save a lot in cost. Injector stuff and flange is already taken care of. Cut it at the turn radius, weld it to a base, weld the base to a pipe, cap off one end, put a ram pipe and throttle flange on the other end, and viola! You got a basic, much better flowing manifold. Good for a more area under the curve after your peak hp.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Build your own HOW YOU WANT for less than half the price of anything made to order these days, do everything right and what you build will even outperform anything on the market anyway. 

http://www.rossmachineracing.com/intakepartspage.html 










Also Justin (Nubworks), makes CNC'd ABA flanges.


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

AJmustDIE said:


> Build your own HOW YOU WANT for less than half the price of anything made to order these days, do everything right and what you build will even outperform anything on the market anyway.
> 
> http://www.rossmachineracing.com/intakepartspage.html
> 
> ...


 Thanks man I have a couple spare intake manis. Laying around. Perfect 



911_fan said:


> Utilizing your stock lower manifold and welding it onto a plenum will save a lot in cost. Injector stuff and flange is already taken care of. Cut it at the turn radius, weld it to a base, weld the base to a pipe, cap off one end, put a ram pipe and throttle flange on the other end, and viola! You got a basic, much better flowing manifold. Good for a more area under the curve after your peak hp.


 
Sweet! Cheap as hell too. I'm going to go ahead and order the "D" pipe, end cap and intake flange. Way cheaper than 700
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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

I'd have to shorten my throttle cable too wouldn't I? And what about the maf? 

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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

The velocity stacks are too good not to pick up.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Stacks are a requirement for any properly flowed manifold. Same with proper dimensions of every aspect of the manifold in regards to actual port flow and camshaft profile.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

What flows better? 
Neuspeed P Flo with heatshield + ducting from bumper mounted velocity stack hose blowing air into the sealed off airbox area or the stock airbox? 

idk if it's even worth putting my p-flo back on this spring lol


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

Setup up the p flo with a duct and youll be good, and itll sound awesome.

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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

AJmustDIE said:


> The velocity stacks are too good not to pick up.


 What would u do with the stacks? 

I mean I was just thinking lower intake mani welded to the tube and bolting it on. I'd also have to mark off there the fuel rail bolts up 

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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Stock airbox, hiflow panel filter, and modify an air duct hose from the box to the lower brake duct vent on the bumper cover. 

The stock airbox will provide the best radiant heat resistance from the hot engine block, as well as the best ambient heat resistance from the under-hood temps. The duct hose modified to the base of the air box will provide more than adequate air to the engine. While it wont be as 'loud' as a cone filter, it will provide a lot more torque than a cone filter. 

You also might want to think about replacing the stock 'accordion-style' intake tube with an aftermarket metal piece. Way less interior turbulance.


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

Woops wrong person


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

911_fan said:


> Stock airbox, hiflow panel filter, and modify an air duct hose from the box to the lower brake duct vent on the bumper cover.
> 
> 
> You also might want to think about replacing the stock 'accordion-style' intake tube with an aftermarket metal piece. Way less interior turbulance.


 how? the only way to do that would be to take the hot air hose off, and bend a tube backward.. it's so close to the serpentine belts i don't want to risk it.. you mean get rid of the snorkel on the front of the airbox? or cut out a hole in the bottom of the airbox?


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

PMLyf said:


> What would u do with the stacks?
> 
> I mean I was just thinking lower intake mani welded to the tube and bolting it on. I'd also have to mark off there the fuel rail bolts up
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


 What do you mean what would you do? 









All you have planned that's going to do for you is increase your plenum volume. The velocity stacks are kind of important, hence their name, they offer a smooth transition into the runner minimizing turbulence and there's where you're going to gain some power. If you're going to be fabbing up an intake manifold of your own, it's really silly to not have included. Runner length and plenum volume are up to you and your application.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

You want the bell mouths elevated off the plenum floor if you can help it.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

True, RMR should start making raised ones.


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

AJmustDIE said:


> What do you mean what would you do?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Gotcha. How long should my runners be if I am just staying na for a while? 

I'd put a turbo but this 2.0 has 205k on it already. 

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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

PMLyf said:


> How long should my runners be....


 The answer to that is literally in my sticky at the top of this forum. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?t=5100265


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

Thanks! 

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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

AJmustDIE said:


> True, RMR should start making raised ones.


 They do and have for years $39 each


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

tt non cam chip or c2 race file cam chip. 
which is better? 
is it worth upgrading for 150 dollars? 
girlfriends car, 260* cam, exhaust.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

No


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

LöW N SLö said:


> tt non cam chip or c2 race file cam chip.
> which is better?
> is it worth upgrading for 150 dollars?
> girlfriends car, 260* cam, exhaust.


 Get the cam chip if you have a cam..

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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

sad to say I am not going to turbocharge my car, So I will be selling my C2 30# chip and injectors, and the rest of the SPA kit; and extras (oil pan etc.) if anyone wants it LMK, especially in or around North NJ... Otherwise I will be putting it on classified and then ebay but figured I'd inform my 8v community the sad news... 

I have to move again and their are some family issues preventing this turbo installation from happening.  Sad but C'est la vie... Life must go on! 

:beer::beer:


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Prof315 said:


> They do and have for years $39 each


 I have them in my own manifold, and installed them the way they're made to be installed. When you do it like that they sit flush with the plenum floor. 










HOWEVER, I now see that instead of cutting a 3" hole to install them, you could cut a hole just big enough for just the runner end of the stack, but then you'd have a weird 90 degree step on the plenum floor.


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

vacuumnoise said:


> sad to say I am not going to turbocharge my car, So I will be selling my C2 30# chip and injectors, and the rest of the SPA kit; and extras (oil pan etc.) if anyone wants it LMK, especially in or around North NJ... Otherwise I will be putting it on classified and then ebay but figured I'd inform my 8v community the sad news...
> 
> I have to move again and their are some family issues preventing this turbo installation from happening.  Sad but C'est la vie... Life must go on!
> 
> :beer::beer:


 Send some details via pm please.

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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

coolalex said:


> Get the cam chip if you have a cam..
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


 Ill say it again...no.

The main difference between a cam chip is the idle rpm. Its higher for bigger cams. You dont need it for a small 260. And the minimal fueling and ignition differences wouldnt even really be felt on that cam.

But hey, if you want to waste $150 on a couple of hp you wont even feel, go for it. The TT chip is going to be good enough in this instance.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

911_fan said:


> Ill say it again...no.
> 
> The main difference between a cam chip is the idle rpm. Its higher for bigger cams. You dont need it for a small 260. And the minimal fueling and ignition differences wouldnt even really be felt on that cam.
> 
> But hey, if you want to waste $150 on a couple of hp you wont even feel, go for it. The TT chip is going to be good enough in this instance.


 thats what i'm thinking, i just put all my old parts on her car for her (260 cam and tt chip, 2.25" exhaust). it runs fine and goes good for a minor modded 8v. also put on a complete cold air intake, it's a neuspeed intake bracket with metal piping to a filter down out of the engine bay. I mimicked this guy's set up and it works good with factory splash shields water damage is non-existant. 









i got my mk4 mani on, and i dont like having a hot air intake.. anyone have any custom made intakes that fit with the stock battery?


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

uh.. anyone have problems installing a raceland header? It's not completely straight, it didn't line up with the studs completely.. I had to use a mallet to get everything lined up properly.. also got a test pipe.. so now ive got 
276 tt tuning cam 
adjustable cam gear set to +4* 
3 angle valve job obd1 head with heavy duty springs & high compression 
high compression head gasket 
raceland exhaust header 
42 draft designs test pipe (cat delete pipe) 
2.5" magnaflow exhaust that is too loud 
mk4 intake manifold with crappy hot air intake til i relocate my battery 
c2 stage II chip tune 

how much bhp or whp do you guys think i have? 

i beat a 1999 Integra GS-R (170bhp, 117tq) from a 2nd gear roll from 40 to 120 so.. i'm guessing over 160BHP.. which is cool for my daily driver. 

next mod is 16v trans, or corrado trans.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Put it on a dyno and find out. My guess would be around 130whp. 

And yea, you need to finagle headers on. Hope you used an an gasket.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

LöW N SLö said:


> uh.. anyone have problems installing a raceland header? It's not completely straight, it didn't line up with the studs completely.. I had to use a mallet to get everything lined up properly.. also got a test pipe.. so now ive got
> 276 tt tuning cam
> adjustable cam gear set to +4*
> 3 angle valve job obd1 head with heavy duty springs & high compression
> ...


 sick once u go with a shorter ratio trans u can go with a bigger cam, as Im sure u are well aware of... 

:thumbup:


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

911_fan said:


> Put it on a dyno and find out. My guess would be around 130whp.
> 
> And yea, you need to finagle headers on. Hope you used an an gasket.


 i used an OEM gasket. 

130whp? really?? I dont have a LRI though. wont that add alot of hp? USRT claims 10% hp gain.  
HURT says probably around 125 to the wheels 

i'm not going with a bigger cam, this is my dd.. the next step would be a tt 288* and I saw 911_fan's dynographs of the low end tq and power compared to the 276, id lose a lot of ddbility. so no way am i doing any higher than my tt 276. HURT said I could buy his neuspeed 276 since he is going boost on his 2.0 GTI. 
worth it over the tt 276?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

This is more or less the same question as you post a few up about the chip. Is it worth the money for a gain you most likely wont even feel?


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

911_fan said:


> This is more or less the same question as you post a few up about the chip. Is it worth the money for a gain you most likely wont even feel?


 so you think an SRI would be the best option for the next mod? 
they're pretty pricey. 700 bucks just for a manifold :banghead:


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

LöW N SLö said:


> so you think an SRI would be the best option for the next mod?
> they're pretty pricey. 700 bucks just for a manifold :banghead:


 Make your own. Or do a 16v head. 

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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Yes. And ya, $700 is way too much. Too bad Greg (HKK Motorsports) wasnt around anymore. You could get one of his for $525 shipped.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

coolalex said:


> Make your own. Or do a 16v head.
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


 16v head would cost atleast 1500 dollars for the bbm kit, plus a head and cams, so like over 2000.. and id only be at 150whp or so.. for that money id just get a bbm supercharger stage 1 or a stage 1 turbo kit. 



911_fan said:


> Yes. And ya, $700 is way too much. Too bad Greg (HKK Motorsports) wasnt around anymore. You could get one of his for $525 shipped.


 yeah i think ill stick with the mk4 manifold until i get the money to go boosted, 700 dollars for just a manifold is kinda dumb. sometimes i see neuspeed s/c's for that. and a vf engineering one pops up sometimes for a little more.


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

The 16v can be boosted on top of that 150 though. That's what i plan on doing.

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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

coolalex said:


> The 16v can be boosted on top of that 150 though. That's what i plan on doing.
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


 that's so much money, though. to boost a 16v/aba you'll be at like over 5k for engine and turbo and everything.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

I love bench building!!!!!


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

LöW N SLö said:


> that's so much money, though. to boost a 16v/aba you'll be at like over 5k for engine and turbo and everything.


 If you do it all brand new from pricey kits. Google it, theres plenty of budget 16vt aba builds.

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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I think the 16v/aba conversion is a waste of money. 
Why? 
Well, the compression ratio the kit leaves you with is 8.0:1, if I remember correctly. 
So, you have to spend another 1,000 to get the compression back up to normal levels. 
Throw in a set of 276* cams, exhaust, and a good tune, and you'll be looking at 1750+, just for around 160whp. 

I swapped a 98 Golf a while ago to a 9a 16v. 135hp instead of 115hp. Yes, it was a great car to drive.. but revving it out every single gear just to move was ridiculously annoying. The swap isn't very hard, though, if you have a complete B3 16v.. The BBM kit is expensive. 
For the 2,000 dollars it'd cost you for the BBM kit and a Scirocco 16v head, you could get a BBM supercharger kit! 
The 16v BBM swap has reliability issues from what I've heard. It isn't really meant for daily driving. 
On the other hand, the BBM lysholm is 100% fine for a daily. I would daily my GT if I hadn't bought my 2012 GLI. 
If you're dead set on a 16v swap, go for it. Just be prepared for issues and bumps along the road. 

Anyway, I found a 95 Cabrio for my wife today. She wants to have a nice summer car. SO.. It'll be a 2.0T, or a 1.8T. She says the VR6's sound like a Wookie. :laugh: 
The Cabrio is rust free, thank goodness. Blown OBD1 engine, though. High miles.. But MINT leather interior. Heated seats (I didn't even know that was a cabrio option..). Also decided I will run dual rounds on my track GTI, without the inner lights. They will be routed to the front brakes, via custom bracketing. Still waiting on my Ibiza lip so I can do a ram air set up with my March kit (thanks again, T!) 
Took it for a spin today, took corners hard. It grips really really well with 205/50/15 Falkens. Turn in is great. I just really dislike the way MK3's snap the rear end loose if you let the gas off and get on the brakes during a corner entry..


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

If you plan on going boost though like i do the 8:5 is a bonus.

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## leon whalen (May 28, 2007)

Hurt said:


> I think the 16v/aba conversion is a waste of money.
> Why?
> Well, the compression ratio the kit leaves you with is 8.0:1, if I remember correctly.
> So, you have to spend another 1,000 to get the compression back up to normal levels.
> ...


 Hurt you have done great things for the aba performance enthusiast with this thread(you and 911 deserve respect for that) but don,t give advice on the aba16v because you are way off base. $50 to re-bush aba rods to fit 9a pistons and $100 to deck a block for 11:1 comp. in an aba16v is a far cry from $1000 "to get the comp. back up" 

also your reliability comment is way off. i took a 190k mile 9a head and pistons, put them together with a decked aba block. new ring and a hone, head untouched and i beat it down the 1/4 several times a year and daily drove it for 4 years before putting it in my sons MK2 jetta coupe 3 years ago. he is still beating on it & it NEVER misses a beat. ([email protected] in the 1/4) 

sorry for the rant but i had to give my 2 cents.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

leon whalen said:


> Hurt you have done great things for the aba performance enthusiast with this thread(you and 911 deserve respect for that) but don,t give advice on the aba16v because you are way off base. $50 to re-bush aba rods to fit 9a pistons and $100 to deck a block for 11:1 comp. in an aba16v is a far cry from $1000 "to get the comp. back up"
> 
> also your reliability comment is way off. i took a 190k mile 9a head and pistons, put them together with a decked aba block. new ring and a hone, head untouched and i beat it down the 1/4 several times a year and daily drove it for 4 years before putting it in my sons MK2 jetta coupe 3 years ago. he is still beating on it & it NEVER misses a beat. ([email protected] in the 1/4)
> 
> sorry for the rant but i had to give my 2 cents.


 It's fine, being corrected is better than spreading misinformation. :thumbup: 
I do think ABA/16v's are good combinations, but just not in a street car, because the management options are so difficult to get running right. 
I guess I'm kind of biased, though, I love me my 8v's.


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

I think they are an awesome turbo option since it lowers the compression ratio for you. But I'm also getting the full conversion for 400, so you can't really beat that.

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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

coolalex said:


> I think they are an awesome turbo option since it lowers the compression ratio for you. But I'm also getting the full conversion for 400, so you can't really beat that.
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


 They are a great option for powerful cars, maybe for racing, but I wouldn't want to daily a turbo 16v. I'd imagine they lag like crazy, and have to rev really high until getting power.


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

Hurt said:


> They are a great option for powerful cars, maybe for racing, but I wouldn't want to daily a turbo 16v. I'd imagine they lag like crazy, and have to rev really high until getting power.


 Why is that? Aware me please before i waste $400 

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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

911_fan said:


> Put it on a dyno and find out. My guess would be around 130whp.
> 
> And yea, you need to finagle headers on. Hope you used an an gasket.


 so id only gain 5whp with a USRT SRI? seems like a total rip off.. 
i got a scirocco 1.8l 16v head today for 100 dollars complete with mystery cams (i think it's 2 intake cams instead of 1 intake and 1 exhaust), so 16v swap may be an option soon using the bahnbrenner kit, and schrick 276's.. or vr6 swap.. but i'm really trying to keep this car as dd friendly as i can.. i'm looking to swap a good MPG trans in it, too.. HURT has offered to sell his built Corrado trans with a diesel 5th gear so i might buy that but idk that limits my top speed to like 120 mph or less. :banghead:


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

The ABA doesn't react to any one mod in an extreme manner, it needs many mods that complement and work with each other. I still say head porting should be covered... because if we're talking about $700 intake manifolds that only net you ~10whp... well need I say more?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

You obviously have your priorities wrong. An SRI allows your top end to breathe more efficiently. There are so many factors involved with designing an SRI; purchasing an off the shelf piece, you are vastly limited to designing the motor specs around where the SRI functions to its designed intention. When i designed mine, I took into account head flow, camshaft timing, ect. Every aspect of an SRI needs to be calculated to perform where you NEED it to. Things like plenum shape, plenum volume, ram pipe length, runner length, runner diameter, runner taper, bell mouth design (no bell, pressed bell, or shaped bell mouth). All these things effect air velocity into the head at varying speeds and, most importantly, dictate WHEN the pulses hit the intake valve. If you dont get any of this correct on YOUR build, it will not function as intended. 

That being said, as a whole, an SRI will increase the area under the torque curve...especially after 4500rpms where 8v heads start to fail miserably. You may only experience a moderate hp gain, but your gains on your top end will (or should be) significant.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

911_fan said:


> You obviously have your priorities wrong. An SRI allows your top end to breathe more efficiently. There are so many factors involved with designing an SRI; purchasing an off the shelf piece, you are vastly limited to designing the motor specs around where the SRI functions to its designed intention. When i designed mine, I took into account head flow, camshaft timing, ect. Every aspect of an SRI needs to be calculated to perform where you NEED it to. Things like plenum shape, plenum volume, ram pipe length, runner length, runner diameter, runner taper, bell mouth design (no bell, pressed bell, or shaped bell mouth). All these things effect air velocity into the head at varying speeds and, most importantly, dictate WHEN the pulses hit the intake valve. If you dont get any of this correct on YOUR build, it will not function as intended.
> 
> That being said, as a whole, an SRI will increase the area under the torque curve...especially after 4500rpms where 8v heads start to fail miserably. You may only experience a moderate hp gain, but your gains on your top end will (or should be) significant.


 well one of my friends is an engineer so i'm going to ask him if he can design a SRI for me, but if he can't, im going 16v. the bahnbrenner kit isn't too expensive, and id get bumped up to well over 140whp with 276's says bbm!


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Bbm has no authority over what your engine will make, thats up to YOU and how you plan your engine build...and what your engine dyon's out at at the end of your build. Any parts manufacturer will tell you what you want to hear in order to sell you their product. 

Do your homework. 
Ask lots of questions to the right people.
Buy the right parts to achieve your goal. 
Enjoy the benefits of a proper engine build.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

yeah, i'm thinking either boost or NA 16v.. 
i just want a reliable dd that is decently quick and that i can do autox events with. 

for boost, id have to go with the bbm kit or Neuspeed kit.. neuspeed is cheapest, but idk if it's worth the cash for the minor whp gains.. and id have to change my cam probably. but yeah those are my plans! and a 16v or corrado g60 transmission with a long 5th gear. :thumbup:


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## leon whalen (May 28, 2007)

Hurt said:


> It's fine, being corrected is better than spreading misinformation. :thumbup:
> I do think ABA/16v's are good combinations, but just not in a street car, because the management options are so difficult to get running right.
> I guess I'm kind of biased, though, I love me my 8v's.


 i was half expecting to get flamed for my comments, but it is obvious you are a wrench turner and not a keyboard warrior....much respect. the next time i'm in Boston the :beer::beer: are on me.


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## leon whalen (May 28, 2007)

LöW N SLö said:


> yeah, i'm thinking either boost or NA 16v..
> i just want a reliable dd that is decently quick and that i can do autox events with.
> 
> for boost, id have to go with the bbm kit or Neuspeed kit.. neuspeed is cheapest, but idk if it's worth the cash for the minor whp gains.. and id have to change my cam probably. but yeah those are my plans! and a 16v or corrado g60 transmission with a long 5th gear. :thumbup:


 if you are serious about a 16v you have to stop asking 8v guys for advice.  these guys know their stuff but everybody is biased to their favorite motor ( 8v, 16v, vr6, etc ) we all think our motors are the best. you need to start posting in the 16v forum. if you are leaning toward the aba16v you need the 16v forum & the hybrid forum.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

leon whalen said:


> if you are serious about a 16v you have to stop asking 8v guys for advice. these guys know their stuff but everybody is biased to their favorite motor ( 8v, 16v, vr6, etc ) we all think our motors are the best. you need to start posting in the 16v forum. if you are leaning toward the aba16v you need the 16v forum & the hybrid forum.


 didn't know there was a 16v forum for mk3's. but i'll def check it out! 

I found a VF engineering charger for 600 dollars locally so i'm debating buying that.. it doesn't have any software though.. 
wonder what i should run? 
C2 stage 1 tune maybe? 
i'm sure id have to install other stuff like a different cam than my 276*, and maybe even a ported MK3 manifold (scientific rabbit one on ebay!!) and software, and injectors.. boost gauge, and then id probably need a stronger trans.. mine has a bad 2nd gear synchro anyway.. for some reason on the 30% reduction setting it crunches but on 12% it's fine. :banghead:


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

LöW N SLö said:


> didn't know there was a 16v forum for mk3's. but i'll def check it out!


This whole thread has nothing to do with a specific chassis...


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Noticed something hilarious when I was shopping for my wife's new Cabrio project (aba/16v)


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Whats the funny? "12whp over stock"?


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

911_fan said:


> Whats the funny? "12whp over stock"?


I think its that your buying a chip but flash required 

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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Whats the funny? "12whp over stock"?


Indeed, indeed.
Wasn't C2's dyno stage II chip and 268* cam a 15whp gain? 
This is what I mean about UM. They overestimate their gains by a huge amount!


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Yep. This is an overlay of THE dynos from the PEM development. Stock, stage 1 on stock, and stage 2 with an ESS 268*.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Someone should totally dyno their car stock, and then dyno their car with the UM chip, and sue them for false advertisement. Lol


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

HURT, 5179.70 at BBM??? 
where do you get this money for all your cars?
i want in on it!!


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Hurt said:


> Someone should totally dyno their car stock, and then dyno their car with the UM chip, and sue them for false advertisement. Lol


Thats the thing about manufacturer claims, thats just what they are...claims. You can gain 5whp just by adjusting your tire's air pressure to 50psi. It would take a third party to validate actual gains.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Hurt said:


> Someone should totally dyno their car stock, and then dyno their car with the UM chip, and sue them for false advertisement. Lol


Anyone got one to send me? I was gonna run a baseline dyno on my car this summer

sent from mobile internet device.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

LöW N SLö said:


> HURT, 5179.70 at BBM???
> where do you get this money for all your cars?
> i want in on it!!


I work 340+ days a year. Cars are my only real time to splurge.



911_fan said:


> Thats the thing about manufacturer claims, thats just what they are...claims. You can gain 5whp just by adjusting your tire's air pressure to 50psi. It would take a third party to validate actual gains.


Yeah, it just sucks they get to go around claiming that. NEUSPEED does that too, with their "5-8hp" from a P-FLO. Crazy shizz. 
Then we get a ton of people in here thinking they have 160hp+ just by getting a neuspeed power kit or something. 

Started stripping the Cabrio today. You find some interesting things under the rear seats of used cars. Especially lady owned cars.. 

I'm experiencing some problems with it at cold temps. I think a lifter is sticking..maybe 2. Who knows, especially with a high mileage obd1. They're like tanks though, they last forever!
Anyone know why I have a dual tip muffler on the Cabby? It looks factory, did they come factory or something?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

You need to invest in a friggin camera phone. Seriously. Im still unemployed and I got an iPhone. Lol

Any luck finding me a jetter yet? Weather is finally warming up dude. Almost time to crank down the coils, slap on the summer rubber, and start installing stuff.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

340 days a year?


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Yes, or more, I work from home on days I'm not actually "working", too. I also have a wife and children. Time is a difficult thing to come by, especially to spend wrenching in the garage. But when I do a build up, I don't skimp. That money was spent well, and I intend on spending over 10k on the cabby. It's not THAT much, if you really consider it. The car will get 30mpg on the highway, be nice, and hold it's value well. It's also cool that my wife finally wants to learn how to wrench on cars.



911_fan said:


> You need to invest in a friggin camera phone. Seriously. Im still unemployed and I got an iPhone. Lol
> 
> Any luck finding me a jetter yet? Weather is finally warming up dude. Almost time to crank down the coils, slap on the summer rubber, and start installing stuff.


apple = :thumbdown: overpricedchinesemadepoop!

I love the warm season.. Usually we're good here from like April to November, but you know well as I that every once in a while mother nature loves to drop a foot of snow on us in October just to show us what a card she is.

Speaking of warm weather..

I lowered my GT today, finally. From ~23" FTG to 21.5". B&G's = :thumbup: 

I'm still waiting on my Ibiza lip. It's coming OEM from Germany, so.. Apparently it's in Customs.. Bah. Then I get put my March ram air kit together, and get some real ram air going on in the GTI. I also got a set of Hella Dual Rounds, that have missing tabs. I'm going to take the inners out, and run the ducting to the brakes.. Then, I will be doing the ABA 16v with the new cabby, just ordered a bunch of stuff for that, including a new close ratio trans, because trusting a 200k+ mile trans to put down 150+whp (hopefully) reliably is sketchy.

I found one Jetta that was silver Suede, 97 I believe, but it had the typical MK3 problems - rotted strut towers, and really bad rockers.. and it was in a wreck previously and fixed poorly.
It seems more MK4's are washing in.. 1.8T's are getting "old" now, so people trade them in. 2 of them went wholesale, including a pretty nice "BORA" edition. 
I'm keeping an eye out, T.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Sam wants a MKIV, but I refuse to get her a 2.0, and maintenance is far too expensive on the 1.8t or VR. Which is why I want to stick with the ABA. between what I can repair, and the fact that I can get stuff literally overnight from GAP, thats what she's getting. 

I wanna help you install that March kit.


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

911_fan said:


> Sam wants a MKIV, but I refuse to get her a 2.0, and maintenance is far too expensive on the 1.8t or VR. Which is why I want to stick with the ABA. between what I can repair, and the fact that I can get stuff literally overnight from GAP, thats what she's getting.
> 
> I wanna help you install that March kit.


Aba is 2.0 :what:

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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

MKIV 2.0's suck, MKIII 2.0's don't suck.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Sam wants a MKIV, but I refuse to get her a 2.0, and maintenance is far too expensive on the 1.8t or VR. Which is why I want to stick with the ABA. between what I can repair, and the fact that I can get stuff literally overnight from GAP, thats what she's getting.
> 
> I wanna help you install that March kit.


I understand completely, the AEG-BBW 2.0 MK4's aren't too nice. My wife's old MK4 2.0 with the Neuspeed kit wasn't even that fast. They're also a bit harder to work on.. I will surely keep an eye open for a MK3.. I have the dealer calling me whenever a VW comes up at Auction, so.. No worries, if I find one, it's yours. I found my wife's cabby locally from an old lady, and that's the only reason I bought it. I pulled the head off this evening. Head was cracked by cylinder #2. Lol.. I am starting to piece together the Scirocco Manifold, on a 1.8l 16v head, but.. I'm thinking on a "DA BOMB" SRI for it. That, paired with 276*'s, it should really move. My wife actually helped pull the car apart. She broke a few things, but, hey, most beginners do.

For the march kit, that'd be awesome. I could use help with plastic welding, I'm not the best at any of that, my hands shake. 



coolalex said:


> Aba is 2.0 :what:


ABA = MK3 2.0



911_fan said:


> MKIV 2.0's suck, MKIII 2.0's don't suck.


 This


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

what do people that are running USRT SRI's do for air intakes? a turn 2 style in the fender well or something?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Running any intake with the throttle body on the passenger side is tough. Hardly anything fits, and you need to run a 90* elbow to fit anything. 90* turns are horrible for air flow. So much more room on the drivers side.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

911_fan said:


> Running any intake with the throttle body on the passenger side is tough. Hardly anything fits, and you need to run a 90* elbow to fit anything. 90* turns are horrible for air flow. So much more room on the drivers side.


do you mean driver side?? that doesn't have the battery in the way.

but what about the auto-tech intake? it's a 90* bend and puts the filter in the fender..
is the whole "mk3s need a bend in the intake" a myth?? just a vr6 maf thing? The eurosport cold flow does this too. is this a myth? I made a cai on my girlfriends 2.0 like this:
except her vacuum line is plugged off, not just taped off..
















it's a neuspeed-plo style bracket and filter, and just muffler piping from the auto part store with some cheap couplers.. it sounds nice and seems to work pretty good, she likes the sound..
on my mk3 i use the aeg mani and this is how my intake is routed:








obviously without the s/c! i wedged a filter right behind the battery and it works well but i built a heatshield around mine, my battery is smaller than this one, it works well.. car goes balls to the wall now. Super hard 3rd gear pulls!


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Relocate your battery. Its not that hard. Lots more room once its gone.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

911_fan said:


> Relocate your battery. Its not that hard. Lots more room once its gone.


i don't know how. 
I saw a e36 at the junkyard with a trunk mounted battery. could i adapt those cables to work? that'd be cool. Then i can make a airbox set up. I dont like open cone filters.. tt tuning says they lose power.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Its simple buy 20 feet of 00 battery cable, route as deisred. I'm sure 00 is overkill but I think 02 might be too small for the distance.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Or just buy a relocation kit from Summit and a distribution block at an audio store.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

If you relocate your battery, make sure you have a battery box welded in with a great tie down. Most tracks won't let you in if you just have a battery in the boot.


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## TravisTheD (Apr 15, 2011)

hay hurt....are u ever going to put a transmission section in here lol i was really looking forward to it when u talked about it a wile back


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

I'm also interested in more info why a 16v aba turbo wouldn't be good

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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

I've never used a kit but then again I have plenty of bolt in battery trays and cable in various sizes. I'm gonna relocate mine after I finish the audio system.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

mk3jetta-man said:


> hay hurt....are u ever going to put a transmission section in here lol i was really looking forward to it when u talked about it a wile back


I was thinking about it, but this is a 2.0 ENGINE forum, and I don't know that much about MK3 transmissions to be honest.
If you have direct questions, you can always PM me, and I can try to help. But the best information I can give to anyone building a high HP 8v is = 
1. 02A trans swap. Corrado G60, Passat 16v, Passat TDI, Jetta TDI, Passat 8v.
2. LSD. Peloquin or Quaiffe
3. Short shifter - NEUSPEED is a great piece. So is the DIESELGEEK.
4. Good clutch. SPEC, ACT, etc. 

BUT: If no 02A's are available, get a 020 Code 4k, 4y, or 9a, but if you don't have a high HP cammed 8v, that is capable of revving to 7k+,gears will be ridiculously short. If you're handy with transmissions, swap in a numerically short R/P (3.67 or lower) with a MK2 16v gear set, or 1.8 8v gear set, so you have very close gears with great powerband, but with a much higher top speed and better MPG's. Also, a 80% shim kit at the very least, or a LSD.

I tend to use 02A's in all of my builds. My wife's ABA/16v cabby is going to be using a 020, but it's a BBM trans that has been rebuilt with a LSD, smartshift kit, and more.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

anyone running a aftermarket cam in an auto? Safe? Does c2 make a tune for auto cars?


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Safe, yes. Desirable, no. Trans swap would improve performance better then the cam would.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

I'm still waiting on an answer on my question lol.

8v with fi cam and adjustable gear with headapacer and turbo or 16v aba with turbo? 

I have a full 16v conversion kit available for $400...

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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

blackspyder said:


> Safe, yes. Desirable, no. Trans swap would improve performance better then the cam would.
> 
> sent from mobile internet device.


how come? 8v autos are pretty quick from what ive seen, 4 speed's hold the tq band longer.
I didnt know they could take a performance cam, i just threw my old 260 in my girlfriends car because i upgraded. it seems to shift harder than before, but revs higher before shifting.



coolalex said:


> I'm still waiting on an answer on my question lol.
> 
> 8v with fi cam and adjustable gear with headapacer and turbo or 16v aba with turbo?
> 
> ...


i am staying 8v, was thinking 16v.. but it's too expensive, difficult to find parts and expensive to fix..


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

I'd like to run 14.2 1/4 at least (with a lot of weight reduction work) 

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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

coolalex said:


> I'd like to run 14.2 1/4 at least (with a lot of weight reduction work)
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


HURT said he ran a 14.9 with his old 276* cam N/A GT set up with full weight and street tires..

14.2 shouldnt be hard to hit on boost.


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

I was searching a bunch and having a hard time finding under 14.5 with a ton of work including pistons, porting etc. I wish hurt would come chime in on what I'd need to do for the 14.2 area. And I'm talking including full gut, racing seats, airbag deletes, lightweight battery, fuel cell. 

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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

As the wise old man once said "you wanna go fast? Then put it down in the rear"

No joke had a teacher of mine at nadc tell our class that when he was asked about how to improve times in another students honda. And it works not that I'd go to that extent.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

What the hell happened to this thread...


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

911_fan said:


> What the hell happened to this thread...


?

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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

911_fan said:


> What the hell happened to this thread...


The last page has been terrible lol.


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

coolalex said:


> ?
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


 This is the 8v 2.0 forum... please stop asking about 16v's. And what happened to originality with builds?? Why do you need someone else to tell you what is better or what to build... read this thread, read about 16v's and then make your own informed decision:thumbup:

Lets get this back on track...


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> What the hell happened to this thread...


 I have had a ton of work lately, so I haven't been posting regularly, and..

The 16v folks came. :screwy:

I'd really like to remind everyone that this thread is a _Hydraulic Lifter 8 valve thread_, meaning VW cars from 1985-2004.5, and from 2012 onward. Mainly MK3's, though, as that is what 911_Fan and myself have dealt with the most.

16v questions and answers from biased people like myself aren't really helping anyone in this thread.

Neither are transmission questions, which is why I haven't really added a transmission section.

We gotta try to keep the random questions to a minimum in this thread. If there are questions pertaining to my build(s) or my opinions on cars that aren't of the MK3 8v kind, you can always PM me, and I urge you to do so, to keep the thread as clean as possible.

If your question doesn't get answered straight away - please don't post it 5 times on 1 page. Just PM me. No problem there. 

TLDR; No. read the whole post.


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

02vwgolf said:


> This is the 8v 2.0 forum... please stop asking about 16v's. And what happened to originality with builds?? Why do you need someone else to tell you what is better or what to build... read this thread, read about 16v's and then make your own informed decision:thumbup:
> 
> Lets get this back on track...
> 
> ...


Edit: Never mind. Ill pm hurt my questions.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I really wish more companies would start making more high performance 8v cams and LRI or SRI's. The average enthusiast probably can't afford a 700 dollar manifold. 
The only real Streetcar/high hp 8v cam around is the tt 276, now it's hard to find a schrick or a NEUSPEED 276. 
Another nice thing would be a mass produced metal intake arm, like ABD's.. Not sure they still make theirs.
And a MK4 intake manifold swap kit would be cool.. A MAF harness extension, 1.8T AIT sensor and extension, an intake arm with filter, and proper O-Rings would really help the average DIY'er.

Good ol 8v's. :thumbup:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

You want cam profile options? Go visit CatCam's site. TT offers the full gambit of profiles as well; 278, 288, 298. But there really is no reason for a company to offer so my profile options considering the many variables involves with port flow and such. 

As for conversion kits... Looks like you and I should go into business together  Bang out like gamgbusters.


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## Fast VW (Sep 24, 2002)

LöW N SLö said:


> anyone running a aftermarket cam in an auto? Safe? Does c2 make a tune for auto cars?


I have a TT66 cam in one of my cars and it is an automatic trans. I have a custom tune in that car that Jeff Atwood did for me. The "off the shelf" C2 tune didn't work so well on the auto transmission.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> You want cam profile options? Go visit CatCam's site. TT offers the full gambit of profiles as well; 278, 288, 298. But there really is no reason for a company to offer so my profile options considering the many variables involves with port flow and such.
> 
> As for conversion kits... Looks like you and I should go into business together  Bang out like gamgbusters.


I completely forgot about Cat, and Kent. I guess the cams are pretty widely available..

I'd totally open an 8v performance shop if I actually had the time. That'd be a really cool thing to do. I just suck at wiring! :banghead: Making mk4 swap kits and cam swap kits and stuff would be a cool thing to do. Or something like a stage I-III bolt on ABA Kit - stage I including a tt chip, tt dynomax catback 2.25", and a 260* camshaft. Stage II would be a 270* with HD springs, C2 chip, Autotech exhaust, and stage III would be 276 with HD springs, MBS 2.5" exhaust with cat delete option, C2 chip, and a MK4 mani DIY kit. That'd be cool, probably net around 105whp, 115, and 125+.. It would make more people keep the ABA's I think. 
Alas.. It'll be a few years before I have the money to slow down with regular work enough to actually do something like this. :banghead:


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

That's a cool concept. But I vote for stage II having the AEG mani and the stage III having an LRI  

Anybody have experience with the 2.5" MBS system on a heavily modded, but NA 8v? How does it compare to a TT Borla or an Autotech/magnaflow...concerning performance & sound. Thanks :beer:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

I had a 2.5" Jetex system on my car and LOVED it. It was 2.5" from the collector back. Had a resonator and a muffler with resonator tips. Even with a header and teat pipe, it was as quiet as a regular TT catback. But WOT...sounded amazing! 

For a straight cat-back, your muffler and , if you utilize a resonator, will define your sound. The larger diameter is going to come into play for guys needing ti evacuate a lot of air out the rear of the car.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

LöW N SLö said:


> how come? 8v autos are pretty quick from what ive seen, 4 speed's hold the tq band longer.
> I didnt know they could take a performance cam, i just threw my old 260 in my girlfriends car because i upgraded. it seems to shift harder than before, but revs higher before shifting.
> 
> 
> i am staying 8v, was thinking 16v.. but it's too expensive, difficult to find parts and expensive to fix..


Couldnt be farther from the truth honestly....I ran my bone stock 94 golf against a friend who had an obd2 car with a chip, catback, cam, cam gear, intake, and maybe other little bits and WALKED him effortlessly. It was a lot like watching grass grow.

But they can not only take a performance cam, they can take a 258whp setup on 15psi.:wave:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MahTrek=] said:


> That's a cool concept. But I vote for stage II having the AEG mani and the stage III having an LRI
> 
> Anybody have experience with the 2.5" MBS system on a heavily modded, but NA 8v? How does it compare to a TT Borla or an Autotech/magnaflow...concerning performance & sound. Thanks :beer:


MBS systems are LOUD. Super, super loud. The muffler on them is a full boar muffler if I remember right, which is a straight through design. It's meant for just..well, to get the exhaust out. They don't sound great unless the 8v is heavily ported and has a nice cam and high compression. I have a 3" system on my GT, but I added a real muffler and resonator to it.. It was absurdly loud before, it's bearable now. I think Vibrant's great mufflers have a lot to do with the quietness though. 
The Autotech system is a nice sounding system but the MBS system probably outflows it by a bit. Same with the TT dual borla. From the dyno's I've seen, BORLA mufflers are actually pretty restrictive, compared to a flowmaster or a summit racing chambered design muffler. They're of course, quieter, but yeah.. If you want quiet, get a NEUSPEED kit. I have mine on my GTI, and it sounds very very good for an 8v.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

I'm soooo indecisive. I'm ordering exhaust on the 5th and I STILL don't know if I'm going with the 2.5" stainless Autotech system, or the 2.4" stainless Neuspeed. I haven't been able to find decent videos of either  will the 2.4" Neuspeed exhaust mate up to my 2.5" straight through 42DD test pipe? I'm also interested in the Jetex setup 911_fan mentioned. Is this exhaust still available? Link? Thanks fellas :beer:


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

MahTrek=] said:


> I'm soooo indecisive. I'm ordering exhaust on the 5th and I STILL don't know if I'm going with the 2.5" stainless Autotech system, or the 2.4" stainless Neuspeed. I haven't been able to find decent videos of either  will the 2.4" Neuspeed exhaust mate up to my 2.5" straight through 42DD test pipe? I'm also interested in the Jetex setup 911_fan mentioned. Is this exhaust still available? Link? Thanks fellas :beer:


jetex is right here
http://www.jetex.co.uk/

if you have a 2.5" straight through exhaust you should get a tt straight through, 2.5" with 1 resonator and 1 muffler is a good system, sounds good and performs good. :thumbup:


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

I appreciate the input man :thumbup: however I've ruled out TT. Nothing against the product at all. Just personal preference. Thanks for the link! It looks like a nice system but I think it's down to the Autotech or Neuspeed for me.

Decisions decisions. I know ill be a minority on this but I love the polished DTM tips on the Neuspeed, that's a selling point for me. I just worry that it will be _too_ quiet for my taste. And secondly if it is too quiet and I remove the mid muffler for some extra noise, i worry that it won't sound as good. The Neuspeed is on clearance so I fear they'll be gone soon killing my chances of finding a brand new setup. 

Autotech's dual 3" polished tips also look very nice, they sound great, and are also stainless, and the same price as Neuspeed's exhaust. Why is this so hard? :banghead:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Honestly, at the price, go with the Neuspeed. It sounds real good without having to delete the resonator. And I too am a big fan of the old skool DTM tips...got on going on my Passat.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Thanks for chiming in 911_fan! That's what I like to hear, as of right now I'm really leaning towards the Neuspeed system :thumbup:

And thanks for the sig by the way, I got a good laugh. :beer:


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

Someone's got a jetex 2.5 in the mk3 classifieds on here for 550, just saying 

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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MahTrek=] said:


> Thanks for chiming in 911_fan! That's what I like to hear, as of right now I'm really leaning towards the Neuspeed system :thumbup:
> 
> And thanks for the sig by the way, I got a good laugh. :beer:


NEUSPEED is a great system, and for the price, it's probably the quietest system available. Not to mention it flows well, and sounds great. My 8v GTI has a NEUSPEED system and it sounds very good under light throttle, cruising, and great under WOT.
The only problems I had with mine was the DTM tips. I hacked them off. :laugh:
It's also pretty light, I think it's like 15lbs lighter than stock. :thumbup:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

[QUOTE='MahTrek=]

And thanks for the sig by the way, I got a good laugh. :beer:[/QUOTE]


??


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Got the old 8v out of my wife's cabby today. 
Got the new motor on the stand, started assembling it.
2 camshafts = confusing :screwy:
Instead of installing my dual stage nitrous set up in my GT, I put it in the GTI.
It is indeed fun. But the TDI 5th kills the 5th gear pulling ability.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

HURT i like your package stage 1, 2 and 3 ideas, those are really cool!
you should open a 8v performance shop.

im trying to find a chip for my girlfriends golf 2.0 auto, it's got a 260 cam, and all my left over parts. It shifts kinda hard, and holds 3rd gear for a long time before shifting to 4th.. like 2500 rpm's before 4h gear. :screwy:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

LöW N SLö said:


> HURT i like your package stage 1, 2 and 3 ideas, those are really cool!
> you should open a 8v performance shop.
> 
> im trying to find a chip for my girlfriends golf 2.0 auto, it's got a 260 cam, and all my left over parts. It shifts kinda hard, and holds 3rd gear for a long time before shifting to 4th.. like 2500 rpm's before 4h gear. :screwy:


Thanks. I wish I could. But at this time, I am trying to secure a solid future for my family, that's why I work so much. 
By the way It's going, I'll be able to slow down this summer.

An 8v shop would be a great thing. Even if it was just a website. 

For your girlfriends car, I'd recommend talking to TT or C2 for a custom chip. I have had both, I liked the C2 better. My last golf that I built was an auto with a 272* and a C2 chip. Ran good, shifted good. Was a great car, even with an auto, but I put alot of money into that car to make a solid dd. 

Got my GTI's new transmission coming soon from my buddy who does all my transmission work. It's a 020 from a 9a 16v car. FULL rebuild. All new hardware. 020 Smartshift, with short shifter. Peloquin LSD. 
From what I've done research-wise about the gearing of the 9A trans, it's nearly perfect for the GTI's 7200 RPM redline, barely ever drops below 5k RPMs! The cruising isn't too bad either, ~75MPH is 3500 RPM's. It'll work much better than my old Corrado transmission, which is really meant for a higher HP application to take advantage of the high gears.

Only trouble I'm having is finding another ABF cluster, since I donated my spare to my wife's cabby build. :vampire:
I don't want to install a big 5" tach in the GTI. 
I will install a shift light, though, behind the HVAC vents, like I did in my GT. 

When the weather warms up, T, I need you to help me out getting this ram air system set up properly. I've been thinking I should plastic weld the lip to the bumper, or at the very least, screw it in from the bottom, just incase of any rough bumps or anything. The car isn't that low, really.. 53mm drop in the front. I'm thinking I can make a splitter to add to the bottom of the lip, so the air is forced right into the MARCH kit's opening.


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## TravisTheD (Apr 15, 2011)

Hurt if u opened a shop or a web site i would defiantly be a customer of yours lol


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## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

mk3jetta-man said:


> Hurt if u opened a shop or a web site i would defiantly be a customer of yours lol


SAME HERE !!! 


COLM is the business !!!


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Ya, no problem. We need to get together soon regardless. 

As far as cams go with automatics, you want to stick with smaller, 112*/113* profiles. You need to retain vacuum for both the master cylinder and for the auto trans.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

I wish I could get my hands on a SRI..
i did the mk4 mani swap, but the PCV valve is really crappy and ugly looking, i hate having a little cone filter on the end of it.. i want to get a catch-can, but i can't find one that isn't too expensive.
help please! :thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

LöW N SLö said:


> I wish I could get my hands on a SRI..
> i did the mk4 mani swap, but the PCV valve is really crappy and ugly looking, i hate having a little cone filter on the end of it.. i want to get a catch-can, but i can't find one that isn't too expensive.
> help please! :thumbup:


USRT sells nice catch-cans for around 70 bucks. :thumbup:


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

LöW N SLö said:


> I wish I could get my hands on a SRI..


I'd sell you mine, but it'll cost you a pretty penny. I'd let it go for $850. Same one Travis had Gregg from SVi Welding make. Dual-plenum, harmonic tuned for 276 cam, blah blah blah. 

I also have a somewhat rare 280/278 cat cam and a head that Schimmel Performance did. The cam has some scoring and I don't know if it's bad enough or not. The head was rebuilt once after original Schimmel build and not sure on valve job. It all ran good before I pulled it, but I'd rebuild for peace of mind. The port and polish Schimmel did was flow tested. I also have a NIB factory remanned head. I'll probably never use this stuff, so if anyone interested, PM me, as I need some cash to rebuild a z charger.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero,I might buy that manifold, it'd probably suit my GTI pretty well. What side TB is it?
Anywho, Z-chargers are tough to find!

Got my 9a Trans in today. CHE 5th, stock 1-4. Rebuilt, 50% shift reduction with a USRT linkage set up, peloquin LSD. Feels really nice, geared WAY better than my old Corrado trans. I'm really looking forward to Auto-X this year. The GTI should put down the power really well, and go through corners like a champ. It only weighs ~2350 lbs. :thumbup:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Colm, I would be incredibly psyched beyond words if you bought my old manifold. 

It. Is. Quality.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

How would it compare to a USRT mani? What are the benefits of a dual plenum?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Comparing this to a USRT mani would be like comparing a New Beetle to a 911; they both share the same shape, but, you know...

This manifold is based solely off of my specifications and designed to operate at a specific rpm with a specific camshaft profile. Of all the things I ever dis to my old Golf, this was my most prized. I'm so glad it wasnt on the head when I lost the car to fire.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Hurt said:


> zero,I might buy that manifold, it'd probably suit my GTI pretty well. What side TB is it?
> Anywho, Z-chargers are tough to find!


Driver's side. I still have 2 of those chargers. Probably sell one with mostly everything once I finish rebuilding. Been sitting in pieces for awhile.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)




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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Wow, you seem very confident in your old mani :thumbup: if it performs as good as you say then it would be a badass addition to a 276* cammed 8v. Who built it?


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

MahTrek=] said:


> Who built it?


Greg Haley from HKK/SVi Welding. Same guy who did all the original USRT manifolds I believe before they switched to the long runner design.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

zero. said:


> Greg Haley from HKK/SVi Welding. Same guy who did all the original USRT manifolds I believe before they switched to the long runner design.


Yep.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

wow that's one heck of a nice manifold!


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Just ordered my Neuspeed exhaust, whoo! Can't wait. Hopefully it will get shipped today so I can get it by next week! eace:

Actually just spoke to a Neuspeed rep, free ground shipping on orders over $100. Score! And also it will be shipped this afternoon, I'll have a tracking number by tonight...double score!


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MahTrek=] said:


> Just ordered my Neuspeed exhaust, whoo! Can't wait. Hopefully it will get shipped today so I can get it by next week! eace:
> 
> Actually just spoke to a Neuspeed rep, free ground shipping on orders over $100. Score! And also it will be shipped this afternoon, I'll have a tracking number by tonight...double score!


NEUSPEED's exhausts sound amazing for 8v's. Here's a pretty good fly-by of a car with a NEUSPEED system.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

I've watched those videos before :thumbup: does sound very good. I also have a slightly larger cam (AT270*) for now, and an AEG mani, header, 42DD test pipe, etc. so it should sound great. Can't wait. Oh and Colm, the DTM tips are staying


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

They better. Im rockin dtm's this year too.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

On the passat right? :thumbup:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Yep...if I can ever find time to get it installed.


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## leon whalen (May 28, 2007)

Colm, do you have a build thread on the cabby ?


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> Driver's side. I still have 2 of those chargers. Probably sell one with mostly everything once I finish rebuilding. Been sitting in pieces for awhile.


Bah. If it was on the passenger side, which I've already hacked up for duct work, I would buy it in a heartbeat..
I think the centrifugal S/C's on ABA"s are kinda, well, inefficient. The ABA"s don't rev that high to begin with, so peak boost must be low. But admittedly I don't know much about the centrifugal S/C design.



MahTrek=] said:


> I've watched those videos before :thumbup: does sound very good. I also have a slightly larger cam (AT270*) for now, and an AEG mani, header, 42DD test pipe, etc. so it should sound great. Can't wait. Oh and Colm, the DTM tips are staying


 DTM tips are just too.. flashy. I think they look cool on certain cars, but Jetta's with N/A bumpers look too round for the DTM tips to really match right, in my opinion.


911_fan said:


> They better. Im rockin dtm's this year too.


 Bah!


leon whalen said:


> Colm, do you have a build thread on the cabby ?


 No, I don't plan on making one at this moment. It's really just a car for me and my wife to spend some quality time on. With 2 daughters, we don't get much of that anymore. But since they're getting older now, we have time alone.. I really find ABA 16v's confusing. I'm still working on the cylinder head. Trying to find someone who does good port/polish jobs. 

I got my GTI all set up today, with the wonderful 9a trans. I LOVE the gear ratios. So close. It's so easy to just floor it in 1st and bang 2nd and 3rd, chirping the tires, and keep pulling.. It does 120 in 4th, and keeps pulling. Anywho, I have Falken 512's on it, on 15x6 et 38 Steelies. (city driving wheels). 15x6, 195/55/15 Falken 512's. They're a great tire. Awesome grip for a tire that's so thin. Camber plates + Koni Yellows +NEUSPEED race springs = AWESOME cornering. I also have front and rear tie bars, and a front lower tie bar. It handles great. I'm having it weighed tomorrow. I'm guessing 2350 without me in it.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

I just put white wheels on my maroon car. 

BAH!


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

911_fan said:


> I just put white wheels on my maroon car.
> 
> BAH!


Those look cool, I have a friend with a Maroon a4 with nice white 5 star wheels!


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Hate the ride of 18" wheels, but the 15" balloons had to go. Still have to put the Kamei splitters on the front bumper, and the zender wing on the trunk. 

What it looks like as of tonite










What it looked like last year.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

I dig the passat man, engine mods? 

Yeah I don't know for some reason I really dig the old school feel DTM tips give a car. And I'm a sucker for a little polished bling :laugh:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

None, really. I installed a diverter valve from an Audi TT225 to hold more boost pressure. And I put a voltage clamp on the MAP to ECU wire and installed a MBC for 15psi. (I'm too cheap to get a $500 ecu tune lol). Oh, and I also have a cone filter on my TIP and modified the stock velocity stack onto the MAF. It goes good for whats done. Good enough for me.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Hurt said:


> I think the centrifugal S/C's on ABA"s are kinda, well, inefficient. The ABA"s don't rev that high to begin with, so peak boost must be low.


I was happy with it. Peak was around 8psi. I didn't really do anything with fueling other than a chip that was supposedly tuned for it and an adjustable FPR. I mainly bought it to try and run with the SRI, but it blew up first. I wanted to try and get my hands on an RSC centrifugal, which is just an upgraded Z. There's a guy that makes upgraded impellers and they were pushing over 15psi, but had a water intercooler too. Just a difference in number of wings. The Z had 9, the RSC you can get them with up to 14.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

The difference between 8psi and 14/15psi is power to properly merge onto hiway traffic and properly pushing you into your seat merging onto hiway traffic. The difference is significant.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

911_fan said:


> The difference between 8psi and 14/15psi is power to properly merge onto hiway traffic and properly pushing you into your seat merging onto hiway traffic. The difference is significant.


Word...I was just saying they essentially doubled boost output from old charger design primarily by changing the impeller. I'm sure there was other engineering behind it too and maybe gear/housing changes for the different impellers. The different impellers are only offered as special upgrades, and the base model still puts out around the same boost as original Z. 

I was talking to the guy who makes the impellers awhile ago and he said for the cost of a stage 3 BBM kit, he could build an RSC to put out around 18psi and was working on an 18 wing impeller. Maybe some exaggeration on his part. I've never seen anyone run an RSC charger in the states nor dyno sheets.

EDIT: found this thread with some newer info, dynos, and video, but it's primarily R32 or euro models. Seems like they still stuck at around 1 bar and just using different gear ratios and bigger impellers to reduce heat and bearing wear:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5695059-MKV-R32-Supercharger-info-thread/page10


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> I was talking to the guy who makes the impellers awhile ago and he said for the cost of a stage 3 BBM kit, he could build an RSC to put out around 18psi and was working on an 18 wing impeller. Maybe some exaggeration on his part. I've never seen anyone run an RSC charger in the states nor dyno sheets.


 Bah
Centrifugal chargers don't really suit the MK3 ABA. They don't rev high to begin with. But anywho, I LOVE my BBM stage III kit. I don't care if it cost over 5k. Like, at this point, I have over 15k in the GT, and I'm at well over 18 PSI. I'm at 1.5 BAR steady from idle to 7500 RPMs. It has pegged the ABF speedo at 160. I love the BBM kits. Seriously, I would do it all again. They are awesome. 
If I hadn't gone N/A on my track car to keep the weight down, I would have gotten another BBM kit. 

Oh, I got my GTI weighed today. 2350lbs with 1/2 a tank of gas. :thumbup:
And that's with HEAVY steelies. With my 5zigens it'll be around 2300 even, or less. Come on, weather, get warm. I can't wait to track this car. I can thrash it around without worrying about hurting my GT. lol


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Passat looks really good Travis, post some pics when u got the DTM tip on. 

:beer:


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

How high do the rpm's go on an abf cluster?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

ABF is 160, I believe. 

Colm, they already started running at the Devens air field last week. Must be massive V8 weekend, because all I hear is mustangs and Vettes.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MahTrek=] said:


> How high do the rpm's go on an abf cluster?


 7500, but the needle keeps going, the Speedo goes to 160. The temp is in C, but that's no big deal because all of my gauges are also in europe-speak. It's hard to find a cluster that has MILES instead of Kilometers. 
I have 2 of these:








Buying a 3rd today. They're only 20 bucks USD, but shipping is about 55.. So 75 bucks for a Vento 16v cluster. Not bad. It's a great mod if you have a high revving 8v, or a 16v. 


911_fan said:


> Colm, they already started running at the Devens air field last week. Must be massive V8 weekend, because all I hear is mustangs and Vettes.



I love the sound of a nice LSx engine. Wish I still had my old F-Body. Good ol' v8's!


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Hurt said:


> Bah
> Centrifugal chargers don't really suit the MK3 ABA. They don't rev high to begin with.


Lol...personal opinion. I wasn't trying to build a race car so 8psi for $600 on an automatic stock ABA was plenty enough for me. Seemed comparable to my mk2 with VR swap. I really didn't need to redline it for peak power either. It would hit 5psi with relatively short lag at wide open throttle and peak before 6k and not do much after, so revving higher was kind of pointless. Old dynos showed it making 10+ more HP torque with stock injectors compared to a BBM stage 1 with 30#. Both kill Neuspeed. Obviously you can build and make anything fast with enough money.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Well 600 bucks isn't that bad. It's just personal opinion I guess, you're right. 
I find that the BBM kit is amazing for the money. It's really easy to make power with them. If you get a stage I kit, and a smaller pulley, and a C2 stage II tune with bigger injectors, you will add a very nice amount of HP without the need of an intercooler if it's just a daily driver.
I find the BBM kit to be a godsend, as my dd build's power/tq DOUBLED (135whp vs 270whp) with no real loss of driveability.. I still get great MPG's. As someone who has had a turbo 8v and a lysholm 8v, well, I prefer S/C. Instant power, Instant TQ.
Just my 0.02.
PS:
If that manifold was passenger side TB, I'd buy it in an instant. I'm trying to figure out if I can get my ram air kit to work on the driver side. If so, I will buy it. :wave:


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

bump for the forum &
still on the fence if I'm going to sell my turbo kit or install it due to money needs; I'm really trying to keep it... 

here's a nice recent pic of the beast it will maybe be installed on:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I'd keep it. You won't get what you paid back for it. Really, if you're on a tight budget, cut money out somewhere else. If you eat out sometimes, like once a week or something, stop doing that. or if you get a coffee everyday for work, bring your own. Just little stuff like that.
ABA-T's are fun. But I like ABA S/C's better..
Just finished up installing a A/F ratio gauge in my GTI - looks good, works good. This is a hell of a street/track car. I was throwing it into corners on back roads today, and to be honest, I think it handles nearly as good as my GT.. which has wider tires, coils, and more. I'm thinking of upgrading the GTI to KONI coils, or Bilstein PSS9's.. Probably KONI for the rebound adjustment. Anywho, I can't wait for the track. I decided since I just got my bumpers painted the proper color, I will use Plasti-Dip as a hood/bumper bra for track days to protect the nice paint.

Been working on a customers/friend'sfriend's car for the day, as they purchased my built Corrado G60 trans and had me install it along with a 60/40 supersport kit. He was a nice kid. Hopefully he will post in here sometime with updates, his car is a Sequoia Jetta ABA-T that he just recently acquired.. Stock engine, though. It just has a stage I kinetic turbo on it. It's a clean car though. Bronze Rota Grids look nice.
8vs + me = :heart:


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

I vote keep it :thumbup:

I love 8 valves, they are so much fun. It's so rewarding to feel all the upgrades starting to make a real difference. Starting out with a 115bhp/122tq platform can be frusterating. However,. It's a really healthy motor. It only has 86k, Just need new plug wires (I'm thinking Neuspeed). I pull on sohc vtec Hondas, LS integras, and I've even (slowly ) pulled on a MKIV vr Jetta with 3 guys in it...lol. So far my engine mods are
Open come filter, only temporary.
AEG intake mani
AT270*
AEG lifters
HD valve springs 
Raceland 4-2-1 header
42DD Test Pipe Pipe
Neuspeed Exhaust (as soon as it gets here Wednesday)
And a TT non-cam chip. 

I'm thinking about getting a UM 270* specific chip. Think ill see much improvement over my TT non-cam one?

My next engine upgrade before I start building my head will be a USRT manifold. So everything I've got now plus chip and mani ill hopefully be looking at 125-130whp or so until my 298*/Ported/Decked/Big Valve/etc. head is all finished. Looking for 155-160whp when all said and done.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MahTrek=] said:


> So far my engine mods are
> Open come filter, only temporary.
> AEG intake mani
> AT270*
> ...


 I would go with the C2 race file, since you don't have a CAT. C2's race file feels a lot better than TT's non-cam file in my honest opinion, in the low RPM's especially. Much more torquey feeling. I don't think supporting UM is worth it, as they blatantly lie about their power gains for the MK4 chip. You may want to upgrade your cam if you want more power, really. The 276 is soooo much better than a 270. But that's just my 0.02, as I can't really give you the best advice without knowing your plans and financial situation.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Oh trust me Colm, I would much rather have a 276* over the 270* but I got this cam for next to nothing :thumbup: it will suit my needs until my head is finished.

I was just wondering if its worth spending $200 (UM or C2) just to get matching software for my cam UNTIL I buy a new chip for my built head, or just keep rocking the TT chip and save the $200.

Edit: another question, what's the verdict with a ported TB? Worth it? Some people swear by it, some people say stay away from it.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

MahTrek=] said:


> Looking for 155-160whp when all said and done.


Don't mean to ruin your dreams, but the only people I've seen break 150whp in an NA ABA were running a combination of standalone, an even bigger cam, ITB's, and/or built bottom end for high comp. Maybe Colm's an exception with his coupe dyno, but I'd imagine he had a built bottom end or something for high comp. I did pretty much everything you got listed and over $1k in head work except I ran a 4-1 TT race header and 280/278 cat cam with Travis' SRI. It definitely wasn't as fast as bolting the Z-engineering charger on a completely stock ABA, which old dynos showed around 150whp. Top end it was probably more fun, but that's about it. From stop it was probably more sluggish than a stock ABA. Really had to rev it high and drive it like a maniac to get it's usable power as it pulled forever. Realistically you'd probably be looking at 135-140+whp.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Ill chime in later when i have time....


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Anybody know a solid source for reconned tdi cranks? Still planning on running a stroker aba but finding a quality crank that doesn't need machining isnt easy

sent from mobile internet device.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

There's a few sites that used to sell complete stroker kits. Autotech still has a 2.1 kit listed on their site with a 95.5mm crank, which I'm assuming is same as TDI. Very pricey though:
http://www.autotech.com/category/engine-kits.html

This site has just the crankshafts:
http://www.bildon.com/catalog/results.cfm?...erentials&Nav=5

Eurospec used to sell the kits too, but not sure if they still do. You may be better off just finding a used one and getting it knife edged.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Guess I should clarify that I expect to be on the hook for knife edging. I just don't want to get stuck with a used crank that the rods and mains have to be turned on because with my luck it'll be out of spec. 

sent from mobile internet device.


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## Robilon (Jan 27, 2012)

Has anyone played with compression by taking some off the head..? Taking my head to machinist to get it cleaned up and whatnot so this came through my mind... it's probably a stupid idea but has anyone here done it?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Take off .040". It will raise you to about 10.6/10.7:1 compression. Perfect for the bigger cams and doesnt ping on 91/93octane.

And for those that were curious...a little old skool DTM flava for the B5.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

blackspyder said:


> Guess I should clarify that I expect to be on the hook for knife edging. I just don't want to get stuck with a used crank that the rods and mains have to be turned on because with my luck it'll be out of spec.
> 
> sent from mobile internet device.


Buy new then. Autotech sells just the crank too:
http://www.autotech.com/product/engine/10-105-955.html?fromcat=passat-b3-16v

Personally I think it's way too much money. I can get cranks from the yard I go to for $20. If I were building a stroker, junkyard is the only way I'd source one. Might take awhile to find but it's better than paying 50x's more. Whoever's doing the work on it should be capable enough of telling if it's within spec or not and see visible damage. 

Other option is eBay and there's one on there now. At least then you'd have some buyer protection as long as you got it inspected and checked out quickly:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CRANKSHAFT-...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1c3145f05a


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## Robilon (Jan 27, 2012)

911_fan said:


> Take off .040". It will raise you to about 10.6/10.7:1 compression. Perfect for the bigger cams and doesnt ping on 91/93octane.
> ]


Holy ****, so this game "Automation" was right, 10.7 is best.. Built my engine in it and tried the compressions :laugh: awesome, thanks :thumbup:

.40" is 10mm, that's quite a lot.. I wonder if it work on ady the same way than aba?


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## Robilon (Jan 27, 2012)

I'm new to this stuff but 10mm of this seems a lot, doesn't it?


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

That's the difference between tenths, hundredths, and thousandths. If I remember right the average fingernail is .003 thick.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Robilon said:


> I'm new to this stuff but 10mm of this seems a lot, doesn't it?


.040" = or roughly 1mm, dude.

Learn your math!


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## Robilon (Jan 27, 2012)

Sorry, eyes tired, misread badly


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

Lol on autotech's website the 260/256 has a requirement to upgrade to dual valve springs on obd2 cars.
Is that just a mistake on their part or true?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Its called a 'ploy'. Lol


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

A 298*/worked head/high comp aba will put down more than 135whp. Hurt saw 135 with similar mods that i listed and a 276*, I know you have a lot of experience Zero. So I guess we'll have to see how it goes when all said it done. Pretty far down the line anyways as I'm still collecting parts. :beer:


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

911_fan said:


> Take off .040". It will raise you to about 10.6/10.7:1 compression. Perfect for the bigger cams and doesnt ping on 91/93octane.
> 
> And for those that were curious...a little old skool DTM flava for the B5.


Looks kick ass man :thumbup:
I should be installing my Neuspeed setup Thursday, ill try to post a few pictures


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> Maybe Colm's an exception with his coupe dyno, but I'd imagine he had a built bottom end or something for high comp.


Bingo. I indeed had over 11.5:1 compression and forged pistons. Not sure exactly on the Compression ratio as my math is pretty bad, head was decked 050", 90mm headgasket (0.5 compression increase) and high compression pistons from BBM. 298 cam, SRI, big valves, great 70mm exhaust with as few bends as possible, yadatayayaya. It is now in a 200whp+ state. MS3, 2.1l stroker, 308* camshaft, etc,etc, gets tracked all the time. 



LöW N SLö said:


> Lol on autotech's website the 260/256 has a requirement to upgrade to dual valve springs on obd2 cars.
> Is that just a mistake on their part or true?


 I noticed that too - it's just a ploy, like Travis said. 

I wish Nitrous was allowed in SCCA! I'd be installing my dual stage NX kit on my GTI.. 
My wife's cabby's engine is finally together. I can't wait til it's finished and I can see how it performs compared to a built 8v like my GTI's. 
The guy I installed the corrado trans for, his stage I kinetic kit'd Jetta at 6 PSI got walked by my GTI until around 110, then I gave up. It was a pretty even race, but he had the better launch. I'm guessing this GTI has around 130WHP right now. I'm installing TT's big valve kit on it this weekend, so.. I'm guessing it'll be at around 135+. Still can't decide on what coils to go with. Maybe a set of KW 3's, or a set of B&G RSII's, or Koni's. Leaning toward RSII's since I like my GT's so much.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

That gti must feel nice. 2y trans right?


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

MahTrek=] said:


> A 298*/worked head/*high comp* aba will put down more than 135whp.


Word...high comp is key if you want to break 150whp and tune too. You didn't list anything for bottom end, which is why I didn't think it was realistic. Good luck though. A built ABA is definitely fun, just expensive for power you get. More economical if you can find good used or cheap new parts. :thumbup:


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Left it out by mistake :beer: I'm definitely not going into this with unrealistic expectations. I understand the fact that I could make a lot more power for a lot less money, but I'm a glutton for punishment I guess! I'm sure I'll have my fun with all motor and want more and end up going FI like hurt and yourself.

Eventually I want to build an ITB'd, 2.1L Stroker, HIGH comp, solid lifter, 3xx* cammed, aba on standalone and put it in a caddy. I think that would be a blast. 

But for now I'm going to try to build a big cam hydro head for the Jetta and run it on a chip tune. As much as Ill be held back by running chip management and a stock bottom end I'm hoping for good results. I'd take 150+whp happily. The only thing I'm doing compression wise is milling .040" off the head and running a 90mm HG. Should help a little at least. Ill save high comp pistons and standalone for another build. 

Thanks again Hurt, 911_fan, Zero. and everyone else for all the words of wisdom, advice, knowledge, etc. I can't tell you how much I've learned from these technical forums. Cheers guys :beer:


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## Robilon (Jan 27, 2012)

What size is the original head gasket?


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Take off .040". It will raise you to about 10.6/10.7:1 compression. Perfect for the bigger cams and doesnt ping on 91/93octane.
> 
> And for those that were curious...a little old skool DTM flava for the B5.


:thumbup:

and yeah I'll prolly end up keeping the turbo.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)




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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

^ Me likey

My 2.0Tfsi is stuttering all to crap lately, new coils, new plugs, finally got it to throw a CEL yesterday and my scanner isn't working.

I wish I had a nice simple engine again!


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MahTrek=] said:


> That gti must feel nice. 2y trans right?


It does feel quite nice. 
It's actually a 9a trans. Same 1st-4th, different 5th. 9a's have a .89, 2y have .91. I have a CHE 5th, .80, for better top speed and to retain some daily driving ability. I just picked up a blown 1st gear 020 1.6 diesel trans, it's got a .75 5th gear. I will probably swap that in if I ever decide to take the car apart again.
I am looking forward to installing my new suspension on the GTI. It's going to have KW Variant 3's. It's going to be quite fun. The car goes around corners like a bat out of Hell! It handles better than my GT, even with street tires that are very thin. I am going to put my old 16x8's on it with 245's. It should handle very very well. You know you're tuning it right when it's actually promoting over-steer rather than understeer!

Thanks for the kind words. I try to give back to the 8v community as much as I can, I really didn't have any help when I blindly assembled my first 8v!


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## Robilon (Jan 27, 2012)

So.. in the machinery the guy first decked 0.031" and told that 0.040" might be too much for stock cam. 
(these guys seriously know what they are talking about, so I want to trust them more than just some guys on vortex without any proof ) 

Anyways, I said that I'll be getting tt276 cam soon and told that he was free to go on 0.040" idea..
But now I'm in between of getting the cam or not to get, because apparently there is no available TT eprom for my ECU..
I'm afraid that the tt276 cam will not work properly without the TT eprom, and the emissions would be too high.
I currently have a modified eprom for my stock cam, I still have my stock eprom if it must be put back.

So, I need some help here.. In short, I want to know if to get the 276 cam or not, and is there an alternative to get it work fine without the TT chip.. 
And if I get the cam, should I use stock eprom or the modified one?

Thanks in advance..


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Robilon said:


> So.. in the machinery the guy first decked 0.031" and told that 0.040" might be too much for stock cam.
> (these guys seriously know what they are talking about, so I want to trust them more than just some guys on vortex without any proof )
> 
> Anyways, I said that I'll be getting tt276 cam soon and told that he was free to go on 0.040" idea..
> ...


If your engine is a 2.0 ABA, I don't know why TT doesn't make a chip for it. Do you know your engine code? What about your ECU #? Since you're across seas, I'd look into KENT cams, maybe GIAC chips. 
You can run a cam on a stock chip, it just wouldn't be ideal. There is tons more power to be made, and the stock chip won't take full advantage of the cams aggressive profile.


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## Robilon (Jan 27, 2012)

Hurt said:


> If your engine is a 2.0 ABA, I don't know why TT doesn't make a chip for it. Do you know your engine code? What about your ECU #? Since you're across seas, I'd look into KENT cams, maybe GIAC chips.
> You can run a cam on a stock chip, it just wouldn't be ideal. There is tons more power to be made, and the stock chip won't take full advantage of the cams aggressive profile.


ABA is only for americans. I have ADY. We have catcams but they are expensive... like double the money..


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Received and installed my Neuspeed exhaust yesterday. I am very happy with it. The install went well, however we had to fab up a reducer from my 2.5" 42DD test pipe to my 2.4" exhaust. Other then that everything went smooth. I really like how it sounds, it is extremely quiet but still sounds great. 

I'm going to try to work on fitment a little, it sits a tiny bit lower and farther out than I would like. I'm going to get new rubber for my hangers and see if that helps, if it doesn't I'll mod the hangers and get it where I want :thumbup: 

Also I may eventually remove the mid muffler for a little more bark as well, but we'll see. Overall very happy I went with Neuspeed. Cheers :beer:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Robilon said:


> ABA is only for americans. I have ADY. We have catcams but they are expensive... like double the money..


ADY? That's not a x-flow cylinderhead, so I've never worked on one before.
TT cam's, particuarly 272*, and 276*, are great. Autotech's 270* is a great cam too, but less power.
If you can't find ANY software at all for a cam, you could get a mild cam like a tt 260* and run it on stock management without issue, but you're still losing out on power..
There's gotta be some company that makes a chip for your car.. GIAC makes great chips. Try them out. Do research. It's hard to find parts sometimes, but I bet there's SOMEONE that makes the chips.



MahTrek=] said:


> Received and installed my Neuspeed exhaust yesterday. I am very happy with it. The install went well, however we had to fab up a reducer from my 2.5" 42DD test pipe to my 2.4" exhaust. Other then that everything went smooth. I really like how it sounds, it is extremely quiet but still sounds great.
> 
> I'm going to try to work on fitment a little, it sits a tiny bit lower and farther out than I would like. I'm going to get new rubber for my hangers and see if that helps, if it doesn't I'll mod the hangers and get it where I want :thumbup:
> 
> Also I may eventually remove the mid muffler for a little more bark as well, but we'll see. Overall very happy I went with Neuspeed. Cheers :beer:


I found when I installed mine that adjusting the rubber hangers make a big difference in fitment. Also, you can keep the mounts from sagging with a hose clamp, lifting the exhaust. I really like my GTI's exhaust, it sounds amazing for a NA 2.0!
I wouldn't hack the mid muffler out if I were you, what happens if you don't like the noise?

I hate tearing cars apart, buuuuut I also just ran into a good deal - my old coupe's cylinder head. .050" decked, 5 angle valve job, HUGE valves, great port work. Perfectly ported for the USRT SRI.. This should up my compression to over 11.3:1.. It's around 11.1:1 now. The guy who owns my coupe is going to the dark-side - 16v! dundundun!
I am buying it, for 500 bucks, hey, I can't go wrong.. It had over 1k of headwork in it anywho.
After this, I may look into bigger exhaust, a custom chip, and a few other little things. 
2.0's are great engines.. wish I had the time to build another all out track car. The GTI is just for short/medium length courses and auto-x, or I'd go for more HP.. I also drive it sometimes. Like.. sure, it isn't that comfortable, and I get one hell of a workout parking it. But it's a fun car.
One problem I noticed my GTI having is that my coolant temps get kinda high pretty easy.. sorta expected with factory fans/radiator. 

Today I found out that my GT's going to be getting some more dyno runs soon. But with this time, my NX kit will be installed (OMG CHEATER!!), and I'll have a few hours to get the cam gear tuned and get everything set up properly. With the nitrous, 370whp is a definite (2 50hp shots) Someone has suggested meth injection, something called boost juice, and I may get that.. Idk. Boost is tricky. After all the money I put in my GT, I'd hate to blow it up (again)!


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

There are no problems with decking the head .050"? We only have 92 octane here, if I went with a 90mm HG and decked .050" do you think I would run into ping issues?


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MahTrek=] said:


> There are no problems with decking the head .050"? We only have 92 octane here, if I went with a 90mm HG and decked .050" do you think I would run into ping issues?


I never had any issues with the decked head, 90mm HG, and high compression pistons on my old coupe. I ran 93 Octane in it with some octane booster occasionally, no real problems at all.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Since its my daily I'm not getting too into this build, I may stick with .040" and the 90mm HG. I CAN NOT wait til I can order my USRT mani, it will be two months or so while I take care of new tires and coils, but still. Can't wait. :beer:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

As with any flow-thru muffler, it will take about a month to open up in sound. So give it time before you go deleting the mid resonator. 

If you want to speed up the break in, get the exhaust nice and hot, then stick a hose up in there and mist eater in the hot packing. It will break up the glass packing VERY quickly!


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## Robilon (Jan 27, 2012)

I'm using 98 octane, so I guess I'm not running into pinging problems with this stuff .. we also have 95 e10 but it's poison


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

911_fan said:


> As with any flow-thru muffler, it will take about a month to open up in sound. So give it time before you go deleting the mid resonator.
> 
> If you want to speed up the break in, get the exhaust nice and hot, then stick a hose up in there and mist eater in the hot packing. It will break up the glass packing VERY quickly!


Thanks 911_fan, I appreciate the input! I've decided to just leave it alone, it's already growing on me :thumbup:


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

MahTrek=] said:


> There are no problems with decking the head .050"? We only have 92 octane here, if I went with a 90mm HG and decked .050" do you think I would run into ping issues?


I got my obd1 head from the classifieds with 040" decked and with my 90mm headgasket from BFI and my compression is a little over 11:1 I think, i really like it, c2 chip makes it run great on 91, but i use 93 just for good measure.. with my 276 it really goes good.. ANDDD i just picked up a killer deal from my uncle who sells auction cars, a 96 2.0 2 door with a ton of mods.. I popped the hood and went








cus it has a USRT intake on it!!! not sure what size cam/chip it has but it is coming to my house tomorrow, it lopes like crazy at idle. it has neuspeed stickers all over it.i can't wait to tear it apart. it has exhaust and suspension and engine mods, but the body is beaaat, but def gonna make more than my 500 dollars back!!


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

What??! So lucky man! The USRT mani is worth more than that alone by a couple hundred bucks. Well done :thumbup:


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## Robilon (Jan 27, 2012)

This is a stupid question but better to ask than do the wrong thing... You don't put any kind of motor glue or any of those between the headgasket, right? It's my first time doing this so try and understand


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

I've never used rtv (silicon gasket maker) or gorilla snot (weather strip adhesive) on any head gasket ever. 

sent from mobile internet device.


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## Robilon (Jan 27, 2012)

So I just put it "dry" there, thanks :thumbup:

btw, should I change to ARP head studs or are oem studs ok with the tt276 cam and 10,7:1 compression?

Also, I have obd1 but this doesn't have dual valve springs... So I guess the dual valve springs are a must?

I'm very confused with my engine since it's '95 year... 

This is what the springs look like









Now, if I'm in need of new springs, do I have to get this:
http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=123

OR

http://techtonicstuning.com/main/in...uct_info&cPath=2_13_61_484_124&products_id=91
this?


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

MahTrek=] said:


> What??! So lucky man! The USRT mani is worth more than that alone by a couple hundred bucks. Well done :thumbup:


 thanks! It has that mani on it and a neuspeed exhaust system with no CAT. i'm putting both items on my car. :thumbup:
i just spent 5 hours tearing the engine down, trying to figure out what kind of cam it has on it.. the end of it is stamped with these numbers:
01401 on the top half
60101 C0 on the bottom half

if anyone could let me know what it is id appreciate it!!
also found out the car has KONI YELLOW shocks/struts!! can't figure out what springs they have on them but they're red. great find!


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Measure the lobes with dial calipers.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

911_fan said:


> Measure the lobes with dial calipers.


i don't have one. but I figured out it's a schrick 268* .440" lift, with a 113* lobe center. Cool!!
so far I have found that it has some sort of underdrive pulleys, friend says gruvenparts, C2 chip, neuspeed exhaust, neuspeed dizzy wires, usrt mani, some sort of header that looks stainless (obx?), test pipe, 268 camshaft, eurosport intake in the hatch, and full suspension mods. eurosport swaybars and tie bars!
such a good find, gonna make way more than what i bought it for just selling SOME of the parts!

911_fan, i was reading your 8v cam info thread, and it says that schricks 260* cam has a 116* lobe center. is that true?


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

LöW N SLö said:


> thanks! It has that mani on it and a neuspeed exhaust system with no CAT. i'm putting both items on my car. :thumbup:
> i just spent 5 hours tearing the engine down, trying to figure out what kind of cam it has on it.. the end of it is stamped with these numbers:
> 01401 on the top half
> 60101 C0 on the bottom half
> ...


That's a Schrick 268*. 
Good find, man. 
Remember to use some teflon tape when you install the bungs on the USRT manifold, unless you're just going to swap them directly over. You should see around 130-135WHP with that set up, the USRT mani is one hell of a performance manifold.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

I'm also running a Neuspeed exhaust with a test pipe. You're going to love it :beer:


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## ny_fam (Apr 3, 2004)

I'd recommend the autotech springs, they are rated at 8k rpms. The TT springs are not. With new cam should come new lifters.

I'd also like to see a brave sole compare the USRT vs the scientific rabbit stage 3 ported MK4.


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## Robilon (Jan 27, 2012)

What's the difference between tt HD springs from '96 to 05, and the ones that are early '95? 
How do I know which one fits to mine?
Can someone help out a noob? I want to get to order soon so I can some day put my engine together


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Here's something to consider...... The ABA being a long rod motor really excels at making torque. And let's face it folks, torque is what makes driving a car fun. Given a choice between a nice wide torque curve and big peak horsepower I'll take the torque every time.

So what kind of torque numbers are being put down? My former boss's SCCA ITB GTi makes 140wtq peak and at least 130wtq from 3500 to 5500 rpms. It's a blue printed 10.5 to 1 OBD1 ABA with TT valve springs, OBD2 cam, a good 3 angle valve job, cold air intake, 4-2-1 header and tuned exhaust using MS3 for engine management.


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## ny_fam (Apr 3, 2004)

Professor - that is why I'm interested in the intake comparison. The dyno plots I've seen on each of the respective sites indicate they don't make the same power 3,500 -5k rpm.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Robilon said:


> What's the difference between tt HD springs from '96 to 05, and the ones that are early '95?
> How do I know which one fits to mine?
> Can someone help out a noob? I want to get to order soon so I can some day put my engine together


The '95 and older already have the proper upper retainer and lower spring seat for the dual spring setup, so they are not included in the kit. As they came with dual coils stock, just not HD. The way to tell what you need is to remove the cam and a follower and see if you do indeed have dual coils, some cars built on the '95-96 time frame could have either setup, as VW was in the transition of going from OBDI to OBDII and that was when they went from single to dual coils for the valve springs among other changes.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

ny_fam said:


> Professor - that is why I'm interested in the intake comparison. The dyno plots I've seen on each of the respective sites indicate they don't make the same power 3,500 -5k rpm.


By my educated guess, seeing the results of your S3 MKIV manifold, you would make more down low with your manifold against an sri, but there is no way past 5000 and up. Its the turn radius that kills the flow where the SRI has a straight shot to the valve.


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## Robilon (Jan 27, 2012)

ps2375 said:


> The '95 and older already have the proper upper retainer and lower spring seat for the dual spring setup, so they are not included in the kit. As they came with dual coils stock, just not HD. The way to tell what you need is to remove the cam and a follower and see if you do indeed have dual coils, some cars built on the '95-96 time frame could have either setup, as VW was in the transition of going from OBDI to OBDII and that was when they went from single to dual coils for the valve springs among other changes.


Thank you very much! Finally get to order the stuff. :beer:

lol... there goes my plans for ordering techtonics stuff. Shipping+taxes etc is 400$ altogether, and the parts are 538$. So all that makes 938$ to get to Finland. No ****ing thanks, I just rather get better quality catcams stuff, going to be cheaper


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

ny_fam said:


> Professor - that is why I'm interested in the intake comparison. The dyno plots I've seen on each of the respective sites indicate they don't make the same power 3,500 -5k rpm.


I wish to god we could do more intake testing for you, especially with David's ITB GTi. Sadly our free dyno is gone . We still have access to a dyno and it's a steady state SuperFlo  but scheduling time is a bitch (closed weekends) and it's definitely NOT free  I would love to see a 3 way intake shoot out using the race car as a test mule. Stock ABA vs stage 3 MK4 vs SRI/LRI. I have a home brew one on my Corrado right now. My guess is that the stage 3 MK4 intake would be the torque king.


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## ny_fam (Apr 3, 2004)

Send me a PM if your interested in doing some dyno testing. I can supply a USRT SRI and a S3 MKIV intake. Also interested in counter flow tests too.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Still pissed my car died before i could get my hands on one of your ported manifolds.


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## leon whalen (May 28, 2007)

i am installing a MK4 intake on my daughters 99 cabby. it already has a T.T. chip and 2.25 exhaust. Has any one dynoed this intake on an ABA to know the real gains ? later she will be getting a cam & a MK4 tubular exhaust manifold. nothing too raddical, just a little more fun in a heavy cabby.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Its in this thread at the top of the forum.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?t=5279062


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

got my usrt intake on today, it really goes hard from 5k-7k!
anyone know a intake set up that could work on this? I dont like a ricey cone filter on the end of it sucking in hot engine heat!
HURT says a "neuspeed top airbox" will work. but ive never heard of that.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

911_fan said:


> By my educated guess, seeing the results of your S3 MKIV manifold, you would make more down low with your manifold against an sri, but there is no way past 5000 and up. Its the turn radius that kills the flow where the SRI has a straight shot to the valve.


I'm having to wait to get my motor together and get my S3 mkIV intake mani on my RV/ABA hybrid together and in the car. I'm sure it'll be loads of fun.:thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

LöW N SLö said:


> got my usrt intake on today, it really goes hard from 5k-7k!
> anyone know a intake set up that could work on this? I dont like a ricey cone filter on the end of it sucking in hot engine heat!
> HURT says a "neuspeed top airbox" will work. but ive never heard of that.


What I meant by NEUSPEED airbox is this:








It's the airbox that comes with a full MK3 NEUSPEED S/C kit, I have 2. I used one on my old 94' with my SRI. Just made a custom pipe and used 2 couplers. Done, factory airbox with better performance than a open cone filter (unless it's in the fender well, which was too dangerous for me at the time, IMHO) I have quite the collection of MK3 parts. I have a REALLY big basement, and 1 whole average-bedroom-sized-room is FULL of MK3 VW parts that I'm not currently using, plus parts in my shop.. I'm going to be doing a spring cleaning, soon, so if you're looking for anything specific, let me know. :wave:


On a personal note, I managed to get a hell of a score - an ABF engine, trans, ECU, and harnesses, today.. And the interior of the car it was in - full Euro Recaros! The interior will go in my GT, the engine will go in my next project. Also got the Euro Bumpers, fenders, headlights, tails, full interior, pretty much everything that's OEM for a UK car! Too bad shipping is going to cost nearly as much as the parts.. 

And I traded my Wife's Cabby's 16v Scirocco head/ABA engine BBM 16v kit and BBM 020 trans for my old 8v coupe's worked head and a few thousand cash. I've (well, we've) decided to go 8v S/C on her car, too. Probably BBM'd, since the spare NEUSPEED s/c I have could use a rebuild, and she wants her Cabby to be faster than her DD GTI.. So I have to buy everything my wife's car needs, too.. Bah. More 90 hour work weeks are in my future. :banghead:


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

PM'd you HURT. Id like to buy one of those airboxes! 

today i pulled my valve cover off to switch to a black forest valve cover, and looked at my cam. I decided to inspect for any wear patterns and i had my uncle measure it with one of those fancy rulers and it has .449" of lift.. TT says their 276* has 448" of lift. so im kinda confused of what cam i have..anyone know what it could be? I hear it could be a auto-tech 270*.. and that means the person who sold me my cam didn't know what she's talking about. :banghead:


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

i did a little research to find cams with .449" of lift
auto-tech 270
tt 276
schrick 272/268
schrick 272
euro-spec 272

anyone know any distinguishing marks of said cams? gonna look over my cam tomorrow to see if i can find any #'s on it.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

LöW N SLö said:


> i did a little research to find cams with .449" of lift
> auto-tech 270
> tt 276
> schrick 272/268
> ...


Measure the duration. That's one pretty accurate way of knowing.. I'll take a look at my spare cams and get some #'s and marks for you to compare.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Well i can almost guarantee it isnt any Schrick cam. Those cams a so few and far between...and expensive...that i highly doubt you got one. I would bank on either a 270 or a 276. Both are very very common. And there is a very distinct driving feel between the two cams. Buy unless you've driven both for an extended amount of time, I doubt you would notice the difference. 

Unfortunately, the only way is to run it out on a Cam Dr. and find out the profile specs. Then you can compare against the specs I have listed on my cam spec thread.


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## ny_fam (Apr 3, 2004)

Hurt - do you have a setup to degree those cams? I think thats the only way we can compare the cams with any sense of accuracy. Plus I think that info would be helpful for those doing tuning with one of those cams.


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## leon whalen (May 28, 2007)

Hurt... you have to ABF your wife's cabby. 16v cabbys are just cool


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

leon whalen said:


> Hurt... you have to ABF your wife's cabby. 16v cabbys are just cool


Nope. It's already gone. I bought a whole BBM set up for it.

Found something hilarious today while shopping at BBM for my wife's Cabby build (2.0 S/C, 6 speed)


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

911_fan said:


> Well i can almost guarantee it isnt any Schrick cam. Those cams a so few and far between...and expensive...that i highly doubt you got one. I would bank on either a 270 or a 276. Both are very very common. And there is a very distinct driving feel between the two cams. Buy unless you've driven both for an extended amount of time, I doubt you would notice the difference.
> 
> Unfortunately, the only way is to run it out on a Cam Dr. and find out the profile specs. Then you can compare against the specs I have listed on my cam spec thread.


the numbers on the end say
01401
72102
from my research its a 272/272 Schrick.. girl i bought it from, said it was a tt276.. should i buy a new cam? is this cam a good cam for power comparable to a 276? it really pulls amazingly well with my new short runner intake manifold! the tachometer goes right off the gauge! i have the cam set to -4* for more high end and it just keeps pulling until the limiter and it seems like it has a lot more power left to go.. im not good at guessing cam gear settings tho so i'm not going to just keep changing it and hoping i feel a difference.. does C2 offer a reflash for a high rev limit? i guess my head has Auto-tech valve springs, which go to 8000 RPMs, so i was thinking a 8000 RPM rev limit would be swell for 7500 rpms shift points. 
thanks so much anyone who can help, especially HURT, who sold me a rare neuspeed airbox for my set up!! :heart:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Where is your research leading you to believe its a Shrick 272? Do you have any idea how rare that cam grind is here in the US? The numbers on the end of the cam generally represent machine shop runs. If the PO says its a TT276, then why doubt it? Also, are there and colored bands on the cam? If so, what color?

You are better off going with a +4* setting on the cam gear. You will get 5 more lb/ft of torque on your low end and still retain the same peak hp.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

There are old posts with people trying to ID same cam and concluded it was a 272 Schrick based on an old parts list that only seems accessible from this archive. Part number: 0014 01721-02
http://web.archive.org/web/20110624...artikeluebersicht/schrick/nockenwellen/vw.htm

You should definitely advance instead of retard cam gear :thumbup:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Regardless, a 276 is better.


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## engineman98 (May 31, 2008)

911_fan said:


> Where is your research leading you to believe its a Shrick 272? Do you have any idea how rare that cam grind is here in the US? The numbers on the end of the cam generally represent machine shop runs. If the PO says its a TT276, then why doubt it? Also, are there and colored bands on the cam? If so, what color?
> 
> You are better off going with a +4* setting on the cam gear. You will get 5 more lb/ft of torque on your low end and still retain the same peak hp.


You think I should do the same with a 268 cam? Ive messed with it a few times I had it at -4 for a while because its an aba in a mk1 I have a good amount of low end torque but I put it back to 0 deg to trouble shoot some idle issues and havent moved it since.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

LowNSlo, 
That is infact a 272 SCHRICK cam. Good find. 
A 276* would be better for power, though. If you're going all out, sell the 272 and buy a brand new 276 with lifters and still have money left over. People pay ridiculous amounts of money for "rare" cam grinds. If you would like to get rid of it, send me a PM.

To the person with the rabbit, I'd recommend generally advancing your cam-gear settings, it's a better torque curve than if you retard it, in my experience.


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## SR Heer (Jul 20, 2008)

I am planning on putting an ABA in Caddy - now I noticed on first page of thread the TT ECO cam was only recommended for Caddys due to their lighter weight - my question is does the the TT ECO provide performance and fuel savings enhancement in Caddy over stock ABA or just fuel savings? And if so about how much of either is to be expected?

I would think an ABA with TT 272 cam in Caddy would be a blast since less wt to pull around! 

The TT 276 cam works well with adj cam-gear (+4) to help facilitate low end torque - now will the TT 272 with adj cam-gear (+4) have more low end torque than TT 272? I other words since I may not be concerned so much with top end performance as much as using low end torque would one recommend a 272 with adj cam-gear verses TT 276 or is it just more of a good happy combo with TT 272? 

In lighter Caddy with modded ABA OBD 1 what type of gearing as in transmission would one be best to use for DD around town? 

I have heard that some recommend a tall diesel geared trans - what type of trans (gearing) normally comes with ABA motors? 

I have an ACN that is neither close nor real tall like diesels - would not that be a good choice - or I also have close ratio-ed 9A and 2Y trannies to choose from - any suggestions? I know with the ACN and 9A or 2Y trannies I can install a Peloquin 80% shim kit for $120 - so using one of these might do justice with traction on both wheels for most of time compared to the earlier diesel FF or FNs. Any coments and opinions are welcomed! 

Thanks for this great thread and info here - much appreciated!


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Ugh...this ECO cam again!

This is a tiny cam meant for a stock Caddy engine. Its NOTa performance cam. The words fuel economy and performance dont even belong in the same sentence.

Almost any performance cam in an ABA Caddy is going to turn it into the space shuttle.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

911_fan said:


> The words fuel economy and performance dont even belong in the same sentence.


Gotta disagree there, it IS possible to have your cake and eat it too!


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

My response was in reference to that cam Jeff.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Prof315 said:


> Gotta disagree there, it IS possible to have your cake and eat it too!


Have to agree with the Prof, just can't eat it all at once.

A properly tuned ems can give you both along with a little restraint by the driver. My car was doing 30mpg @80mph before my last changes and with some new info I hope to have re-tuned it to get back to that mark. And hope to do better with the next motor going into the car.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

911_fan said:


> My response was in reference to that cam Jeff.


I was getting 32-34mpg on my setup. Was referring to that eco cam.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

911_fan said:


> I was getting 32-34mpg on my setup. Was referring to that eco cam.


Yes, that cam has crossed my mind on occasion, but a 4K rpm limit just kills any thoughts of it for me. On-ramps would be absolutely no fun anymore.:thumbdown:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

SR Heer said:


> I am planning on putting an ABA in Caddy - now I noticed on first page of thread the TT ECO cam was only recommended for Caddys due to their lighter weight - my question is does the the TT ECO provide performance and fuel savings enhancement in Caddy over stock ABA or just fuel savings? And if so about how much of either is to be expected?
> 
> I would think an ABA with TT 272 cam in Caddy would be a blast since less wt to pull around!
> 
> ...


I'll start with the ECO-cam. It's not a performance camshaft at all. Far less lift and duration than the stock ABA cam. It was used in Euro-Caddy's, but the caddy never came with the ABA, so I'm really not sure WHY it's even marketed. 

If you're going to spend the money, the 276* is better than the 272*. The 272* is 40 dollars less, but you'll also miss out on some HP/TQ over the 276*. It's preference, really. Any MK1 2.0 is going to be quick. Especially with a performance cam.

The stock ABA CHE code transmission sort of sucks for performance, but it's probably one of the best for MPG's, with it's widely spaced gears and low RPM's in 5th at 60mph. 
I have a 9a with a CHE 5th in my 98' GTI and I love it, I'd recommend the combo highly if your car is high-revving, like with a TT 272+. 
If you'd like to compare your transmission gear ratios, try looking at TT tuning's gear ratio chart.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

I know this is the 2.0L 8V engine forum, but i figured this may be relevent. 

Anybody here have experience with the Peloquin 80% shim kit? I've read a little bit about them but would like to hear from someone who has first hand experience. 

Does it only help during cornering? 
Will it help my launches?
What do I need to do to ensure I'm getting the maximum 80% lock? 

Thanks fellas :beer:


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

MahTrek=] said:


> I know this is the 2.0L 8V engine forum, but i figured this may be relevent.
> 
> Anybody here have experience with the Peloquin 80% shim kit? I've read a little bit about them but would like to hear from someone who has first hand experience.
> 
> ...


I have it installed in two different cars, it helps, but nothing like a real LSD. I doubt you can actually tell that it is there, at least I can't. I had it put in when I had the trannies rebuilt and in one car(mkIII) I was using a tranny with an LSD in it and with the LSD and ps, the car went where you pointed it with power on. After installing the rebuilt tranny, it was nothing like the LSD and hard to remember what it was like w/o the LSD. And the other car (mkI), I went from a well used (300K+ mile) 4spd to a rebuilt 5spd. Better, but not LSD better. I have driven a mkI with an LSD w/ and w/o ps, and ps is a real plus to have with an LSD. Otherwise you need to have a firm grip on the wheel at anytime you are using lots of power and could possibly break traction w/ one tire, it'll yank the wheel right out of your hand. We went from no ps to ps in the autocross car with a 20+hp gain and it was like driving my Rabbit on skinny tires with the ps and 8inch wide race tires on the race car.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Its a nice bit to add to your trans. I dont know how much they sell for now, as i bought mine years ago, buts is a worthwhile upgrade. I had mine replaced when i had my transmission guts replaced back in '08.

TL;DR
DO IT.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

ps2375 said:


> I have it installed in two different cars, it helps, but nothing like a real LSD. I doubt you can actually tell that it is there, at least I can't. I had it put in when I had the trannies rebuilt and in one car(mkIII) I was using a tranny with an LSD in it and with the LSD and ps, the car went where you pointed it with power on. After installing the rebuilt tranny, it was nothing like the LSD and hard to remember what it was like w/o the LSD. And the other car (mkI), I went from a well used (300K+ mile) 4spd to a rebuilt 5spd. Better, but not LSD better. I have driven a mkI with an LSD w/ and w/o ps, and ps is a real plus to have with an LSD. Otherwise you need to have a firm grip on the wheel at anytime you are using lots of power and could possibly break traction w/ one tire, it'll yank the wheel right out of your hand. We went from no ps to ps in the autocross car with a 20+hp gain and it was like driving my Rabbit on skinny tires with the ps and 8inch wide race tires on the race car.


I agree with this.
The 020 is a weaklink to begin with.
Real performance applications require upgrades to the trans, too, and of course the suspension should be done up, too, along with nice sticky tires.. When I got my BBM kit on my car out of the box, I just SPUUUUUN. I had skinny tires, and I was 21" FTG on H&R's (But I was vortex approved!!) and I quickly saw the need for good performance suspension and tires. I started with my BBM 6 speed, though, along with my LSD. Even with my 135whp set up it was great.

I cannot stress this enough: Good cars are balanced cars!


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## SR Heer (Jul 20, 2008)

interesting info on Peloquin shim kit which can now be had for $125 - in thread below some have just bought the specailty parts for $25 and used hardware store materials to make up rest of wht kit consists of

http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=30682.0


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

I can agree with the statement "good cars are balanced cars"
Which is why I'm working on mine little by little. I learn more, upgrade more. But also, I know that a 100% performance oriented car will not be at 20-21"ftg, stretched tires, etc
I'm going for a balance between my car looking how I want it to look, and performing how I want it to perform. And so far I'm happy with it :beer:

If some guys want to put bags on their mk3, whatever. 
If some guys want their cars to perform better, hell yes.


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## wantacad (Apr 4, 2003)

x2 on an ABA with a 276 in a Mk1. Freaking loved it

had a DFQ with a .71 5th. 1-4 were fun enough and was nice turning about 2500 rpms in 5th on the highway.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

DFQ is the same as a CHE iirc, pretty tall trans. I can see how it would be more fun in a mk1. After I build my aba I want to put it in a caddy :thumbup:


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## wantacad (Apr 4, 2003)

MahTrek=] said:


> *DFQ is the same as a CHE iirc, pretty tall trans*. I can see how it would be more fun in a mk1. After I build my aba I want to put it in a caddy :thumbup:


 yeah just a stock trans in the mk3's. Amazing how everyone dogs on the "2.slow" but when you toss it in a lighter weight chassis it really comes alive.


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## engineman98 (May 31, 2008)

Hurt said:


> LowNSlo,
> That is infact a 272 SCHRICK cam. Good find.
> A 276* would be better for power, though. If you're going all out, sell the 272 and buy a brand new 276 with lifters and still have money left over. People pay ridiculous amounts of money for "rare" cam grinds. If you would like to get rid of it, send me a PM.
> 
> To the person with the rabbit, I'd recommend generally advancing your cam-gear settings, it's a better torque curve than if you retard it, in my experience.


 So I put the cam at +4 finally and drove it. It sounds much more throaty under throttle. No life changing power gains seems to pull more smoothly though. A nice linear curve that reminds me of how my 24v pulls in my MKIV. 

On another note of the 020 trans I have a 9a trans in my MKI although the 1-3 are very short the trans makes the aba come to life. I have pulled on mkIII and MKIV vr's. Its suprisingly quick and feels like its alot more than a little aba under the hood.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

engineman98 said:


> So I put the cam at +4 finally and drove it. It sounds much more throaty under throttle. No life changing power gains seems to pull more smoothly though. A nice linear curve that reminds me of how my 24v pulls in my MKIV.
> 
> On another note of the 020 trans I have a 9a trans in my MKI although the 1-3 are very short the trans makes the aba come to life. I have pulled on mkIII and MKIV vr's. Its suprisingly quick and feels like its alot more than a little aba under the hood.


 The ABA is a great engine, and when you lose 500lbs going from a MK3 to a MK2, or 800 going from a mk3 to mk1, it really shows it's true colors as a torquey, well rounded engine! 

The 9A trans is amazing IMO, I love mine in my GTI. 
It pulls hard from 1st-4th, and still keeps going in 5th. I have a CHE 5th, though. 
9A's really help a high-revving cammed ABA.. I barely ever drop below 5k RPM's with mine! 

My 0-60 is very quick for a 2litre, and I pull on my friend's GS-R Integra, and a B16a coupe with bolt ons. I just got my ram-air set up done, and I noticed vacuum is instantaneous when I give it gas. Because it's an ABA, the TQ is still very nice. I'm thinking this car puts down around 135-140whp. The NEUSPEED camshaft is amazing. Sent in an order for a custom chip for higher compression and a 8000 RPM rev limit. 

I'm so excited. 
Got my BBM order today for my wife's cabby. I will be making a separate thread for that build, I believe. ic:ic:ic:


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Deep down inside, I really just want to pull on 170hp (stock!) DOHC vtec engines such as the b16a and b18c1. Those 2 door integra/civic coupes are around the same weight as a gti I think. 2300ish? It will be a very happy day when my 2700lb aba Jetta pulls on a modded one :thumbup: 

With the engine build/trans build setup I'm going for, it shouldn't be too hard. It's much better than stock as it sits, but anything over a modded single cam is danger zone. :laugh:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MahTrek=] said:


> Deep down inside, I really just want to pull on 170hp (stock!) DOHC vtec engines such as the b16a and b18c1. Those 2 door integra/civic coupes are around the same weight as a gti I think. 2300ish? It will be a very happy day when my 2700lb aba Jetta pulls on a modded one :thumbup:
> 
> With the engine build/trans build setup I'm going for, it shouldn't be too hard. It's much better than stock as it sits, but anything over a modded single cam is danger zone. :laugh:


 I believe the majority of them are ~2500. The B series engines are very quick from the factory. But it's nice to pull on them. My GTI weighs ~2250 without me in it.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Swapping on my completely worked head tomorrow (.050" decked, ported, gasket matched to the USRT manifold perfectly, along with a nice exhaust port job to mate up to a TT race header perfectly, great 5 angle valve job TT 42/35mm valve kit, Autotech HD valve springs with titanium retainers, etc. 
Also just got my NEUSPEED exhaust modified to my liking. Found a spare NEUSPEED tail-pipe muffer, and decided to go straight 2.5" piping from the header back, to the muffler. Less restriction = more power. Awww yeah. 

I'm thinking the GTI will have around 140whp when all is said and done. High compression (WELL over 11:1, maybe 11.5:1) + NEUSPEED 276 = :heart: 
Can't wait! 
Also just got my sticky tires (Beretta GTZ 16x7 wheels with some 225/40/16's and my new coilovers. 
So excited. The GTI is going to handle amazingly. Will be assembled tomorrow. :thumbup:


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Very nice :thumbup: 

We want pull vids! Pay some kid $10 to hold the camera. 

I bet the exhaust is going to sound awesome. And loud.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

So I was helping my old boss clean his shop this weekend (he's closing the doors and retiring) and we came across an Elgin Cams 256H 8V grind.... it looks interesting .435" lift, 220* @.050" duration cut on an unknown LSA. I think I might give it a whirl in the Corrado. Even better though we found an old Super V cam! .590" lift and 328* advertised duration  it'll make a good regrind candidate for a custom turbo cam


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

MahTrek=] said:


> I bet the exhaust is going to sound awesome. And loud.


 Mine was super loud with a TT race header and I was running 2.25" piping, still had a high flow cat, and added 2 resonators because of police harassment. If it's a daily, that header won't last long. Wish they made them stainless, and for the price, they should be. The collector on mine was shot after a couple years and someone from TT told me if the header lasted more than 1 year that I reached it's intended life. I'd get it jet coated or something similar if you still got it off.


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## ryanujetta (Jan 27, 2013)

hey guys im gonna bring up the SRI's again with a couple questions, does anyone know how long the usrt sri runners are AND is it better to have the velocity stacks sticking out above the floor on the plenum or flush 

thank you very much


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

No idea on length.

It is my understanding that elevated bells generate an increase in velocity over flush mounted stacks. There are plenty of internet arguments refuting my logic, but after a ton of research, I feel elevated , at least for NA applications, is the way to go.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> Mine was super loud with a TT race header and I was running 2.25" piping, still had a high flow cat, and added 2 resonators because of police harassment. If it's a daily, that header won't last long. Wish they made them stainless, and for the price, they should be. The collector on mine was shot after a couple years and someone from TT told me if the header lasted more than 1 year that I reached it's intended life. I'd get it jet coated or something similar if you still got it off.


 I got mine all bolted up today, and it's LOUD (2.5" piping from the header back, tail pipe muffler). Louder than my GT with 3" exhaust and a Vibrant Resonator and Muffler, even. 
It pulls super hard, not sure what the compression ratio is.. Well over 11:1, probably 11.3:1 maybe higher. I'm not sure. 
It really gets up and goes. 

I just figured I'd point something out for people looking for performance parts - 
WRD sells 260, 266, 268 for 135 each. Way cheaper than most places. 
They also have good deals on NEUSPEED P-FLO systems - 122 dollars for a complete kit. 
Exhaust is cheap there, too, at 211 dollars for the 2.25" dynomax/tt system, 360 for the Dual Resonator 2.5" Flowmaster system, in Aluminized. 
Also, the Dual Borla with SS piping is under 600 dollars.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Prof315 said:


> So I was helping my old boss clean his shop this weekend (he's closing the doors and retiring) and we came across an Elgin Cams 256H 8V grind.... it looks interesting .435" lift, 220* @.050" duration cut on an unknown LSA. I think I might give it a whirl in the Corrado. Even better though we found an old Super V cam! .590" lift and 328* advertised duration  it'll make a good regrind candidate for a custom turbo cam


 Well I did a bunch more research on the 256H cam...... It is NOT a standard 255/256H Eglin cam, but rather a very interesting custom piece. For starters it has a 1.380 base circle rather than the standard 1.340 and only .405 lift ( I did my initial measurements quickly and made some stupid assumptions ). I think it's a hydraulic "launcher" cam made for SCCA IT cars. Anybody want it?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Holy crap, that cam is gonna compress the lifters to the point of it running like a solid lifter.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Holy crap, that cam is gonna compress the lifters to the point of it running like a solid lifter.


 Exactly and the ramp profile is such that when the valve opens it opens more than measured. It's a pretty cool cam but definitely not what I want for a turbo motor. 

It's meant to make power from 5500 to 7800 in an N/A engine


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Do you have any idea what the profile specs are @ 1mm or .050"? 

If its an aggressive ramp with a high centerline, why would it not make a good FI cam?


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Do you have any idea what the profile specs are @ 1mm or .050"?
> 
> If its an aggressive ramp with a high centerline, why would it not make a good FI cam?


 No idea what the actual @.050" is. Wish I had a cam doctor. It _might work_ for FI but most of Dema's race cams are 106 LSA or tighter and tend to be pretty hard on valve springs. Not what I am looking for. With my EFR turbo I'll be able to hit 20psi by 2600rpms if I want to (I won't) and my goals are such that I just need something that will pull HARD from 3500 to 6800 max and would be ok with 6500. The car is geared tall and wide and 6800 in 5th will be stupidly fast.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Prof315 said:


> So I was helping my old boss clean his shop this weekend (he's closing the doors and retiring) and we came across an Elgin Cams 256H 8V grind.... it looks interesting .435" lift, 220* @.050" duration cut on an unknown LSA. I think I might give it a whirl in the Corrado. Even better though we found an old Super V cam! .590" lift and 328* advertised duration  it'll make a good regrind candidate for a custom turbo cam


 ..Woah. .590 lift?  
On hydraulic lifters?! :screwy:


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## ny_fam (Apr 3, 2004)

Hurt said:


> ..Woah. .590 lift?
> On hydraulic lifters?! :screwy:


 We wish - afraid those cams are solid lifter only. Need longer stem valves and special non vw springs too.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Took a vid of my exhaust, ill try to get it posted soon. Easiest way to do this? Thanks :beer: 

How you liking the 2.5" header back to Neuspeed rear muffler Hurt?


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## dasautovdub420 (May 10, 2012)

Was told there was no difference in power gain or response with a aftermarket header over a OEM header? Thought that it would make sense if a aftermarket header would flow better.... Thoughts?


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

That is a common argument for the vr6 platform. The aba responds well to an exhaust manifold upgrade.


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## dasautovdub420 (May 10, 2012)

So a aftermarket header will be a good upgrade? Just was confused when I was told it wouldn't have any benefit considering a OEM header twists and turns while aftermarket is more straight down and looks better flowing. Also does anyone know anything about those BFI chips? Will I need a ROM tune after installation or will it tune it's self? Thanks!


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

ny_fam said:


> We wish - afraid those cams are solid lifter only. Need longer stem valves and special non vw springs too.


 It also requires a specially modified head with bigger diameter cam followers. We just sent 2 Super-V heads to the recycler last weekend.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

dasautovdub420 said:


> So a aftermarket header will be a good upgrade? Just was confused when I was told it wouldn't have any benefit considering a OEM header twists and turns while aftermarket is more straight down and looks better flowing. Also does anyone know anything about those BFI chips? Will I need a ROM tune after installation or will it tune it's self? Thanks!


 Yes, an aftermarket header will be a nice upgrade. Even better when paired with other supporting mods. Several companies make a header for our cars. Raceland, OBX, Pacesetter, TT, etc. 

If your car is OBDII you will have to plug the little ports near the exhaust ports on the head. An aftermarket header will have a huge leak if you do not. I believe they are for the sai/egr(possibly?) system. Delete your Secondary Air and plug these holes. Some guys use set screws, I used a metal dowel and made sure they were snug. 


The BFI chip is made by C2. The chip you get will be ready to go, no at home tuning required unless you want to adjust your idle and are handy with VAG-com. The BFI chip can also delete your rear O2 sensor and eliminate the CEL that comes with remove the SAI system. 
Just make sure to get the correct cam profile chip. They have ones from stock cam all the way up to super aggressive. 

All of this information is on the very 1st page of this thread btw...


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## TwixVdub (Oct 9, 2007)

I am curious as to how the fuel mileage is affected by this work, I have an obd2 and I am planning on running a tt276 cam I bought the car to have as a daily driver bc my truck gets horrible fuel mileage and I don't want to sacrifice my mpgs for power.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MahTrek=] said:


> Took a vid of my exhaust, ill try to get it posted soon. Easiest way to do this? Thanks :beer:
> 
> How you liking the 2.5" header back to Neuspeed rear muffler Hurt?


 I like it, it's just loud. Too loud. It still has a deep tone to it, but it also shoots flame out the back on hard shifts. Lol. 
If it were a daily, I would put the resonator back in. Or get a VIBRANT supersilent resonator (what I run on my GT) because they work phenomenally well. I'm hoping to get the GTI dyno'd some time soon. The hogged out head and big valves defintely helped with the power delivery, it pulls super hard up to the 7200 RPM rev cut. Waiting for my custom chip so I don't have a low rev limit. But the project is going sort of slow since my wife's build has cost around 10k so far. It put a considerable dent in my fun-money for this summer. 



dasautovdub420 said:


> Was told there was no difference in power gain or response with a aftermarket header over a OEM header? Thought that it would make sense if a aftermarket header would flow better.... Thoughts?


 ABA's flow like crap to begin with. To take full advantage of a header you'd need a ported head. All in all, a header such as TT's 4-2-1 is a great great piece. 



dasautovdub420 said:


> So a aftermarket header will be a good upgrade? Just was confused when I was told it wouldn't have any benefit considering a OEM header twists and turns while aftermarket is more straight down and looks better flowing. Also does anyone know anything about those BFI chips? Will I need a ROM tune after installation or will it tune it's self? Thanks!


 BFI/C2 motorsport chips are the best for HP in the 2.0 game, IMO. You don't need to tune the car after you put the chip in, if that's what you mean. It's plug and play. 
The only thing you'd want to do after a chip install is possibly a Throttle Body Adaptation. 


TwixVdub said:


> I am curious as to how the fuel mileage is affected by this work, I have an obd2 and I am planning on running a tt276 cam I bought the car to have as a daily driver bc my truck gets horrible fuel mileage and I don't want to sacrifice my mpgs for power.


 No matter what your 2.0 ABA will get better gas mileage than a v6/v8 truck- unless it's brand new. 
I get 25MPG's city/highway in my GTI with a fully built 276*'d engine, with a short ratio trans, even! 
With most modified ABA's, you can get the same if not better MPG's as before you modded it, Buuut it depends on how you drive it, all in all.. In my Supercharged 6 speed GT, I get around 22 city and 30 highway. But I drive it with a heavy foot, shift at around 3-4k RPM's, and occasionally take it up to 8,000 RPM's. :laugh:


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## TwixVdub (Oct 9, 2007)

I'm planning on doing everything you recommended for power, I typically shift around 2k but I want to have power available for those nice "spirited" sunday drives around some twisties. Thanks for all the information!


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

TwixVdub said:


> I'm planning on doing everything you recommended for power, I typically shift around 2k but I want to have power available for those nice "spirited" sunday drives around some twisties. Thanks for all the information!


 No problem at all. 
If you have any real goals in mind for power, I can recommend you a set up specific for your car. Feel free to PM me.


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## dasautovdub420 (May 10, 2012)

Hurt said:


> I like it, it's just loud. Too loud. It still has a deep tone to it, but it also shoots flame out the back on hard shifts. Lol.
> If it were a daily, I would put the resonator back in. Or get a VIBRANT supersilent resonator (what I run on my GT) because they work phenomenally well. I'm hoping to get the GTI dyno'd some time soon. The hogged out head and big valves defintely helped with the power delivery, it pulls super hard up to the 7200 RPM rev cut. Waiting for my custom chip so I don't have a low rev limit. But the project is going sort of slow since my wife's build has cost around 10k so far. It put a considerable dent in my fun-money for this summer.
> 
> 
> ...


 Was just wondering if I upgrade my Throttle Body would I be able to use a MK3 VR6 TB? Considering it is a tad bit bigger and I'd rather replace mine with another OEM one other than paying a arm and a leg for a after market? But I'm not to sure if I would have to upgrade injectors? Thanks!


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Only OBDI cars can do a vr6 throttle body swap. Wiring is different with OBDII. Most you can do is reshape the throttle bore. Dont touch the injectors unless you go FI.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Only OBDI cars can do a vr6 throttle body swap. Wiring is different with OBDII. Most you can do is reshape the throttle bore. Dont touch the injectors unless you go FI.


 I don't think I've ever changed the TB/injectors in any of my 8v builds except the 160whp build. 
The stock ABA fuel injectors do fine IME. 
My GTI's aren't leaning out yet and I'm at atleast 135whp, slamming gears at 7200. :laugh:


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## dasautovdub420 (May 10, 2012)

Alright thanks for all the info appreciate it! Think I've made up my mind on some mods to my 8V! I'm just going to get new headers, full 2.25in exhaust, 260 cam and a BFI chip! Maybe next year I'll hit some boost with a rebuilt head


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

I've read a detailed DIY on porting the TB on an OBDII car. Looks like a fun project. Anybody experience any issues/negative results?


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## 96GOLFman (Mar 1, 2012)

Not on an aba but one of my buddies with a ls1 trans am messed with hos throttle body "deramped" it and fu**ed his idle because the butterfly won't seal anymore just do some cleaning and call it good

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

I've heard if this happening, but even if I "port" my TB, I would be sure to not take away so much material that the butterfly wouldn't close. That would obviously cause problems.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MahTrek=] said:


> I've read a detailed DIY on porting the TB on an OBDII car. Looks like a fun project. Anybody experience any issues/negative results?


 http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2065316 

There's a link to a DIY throttle body deramping thread. 
It helps in terms of flow. Negative results are easy to get if you take too much material away.


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## 96GOLFman (Mar 1, 2012)

Yea he didn't really know what he was doing and took at it with a dremel it was bad

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Let me know what you guys think :beer:


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## 495306 (Oct 20, 2009)

MahTrek=] said:


> Let me know what you guys think :beer:


 
Fixed the link 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GHzAjmCAtIQ 

Sounds good!:beer: 

I was just wondering if anyone else is using the larger tdi filter in their aba?


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Thanks man! I haven't heard of using a tdi filter, I'm sure some here have however. 

Thanks for fixing my link, what did I do wrong? Haha :beer:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Hurt said:


> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2065316
> 
> There's a link to a DIY throttle body deramping thread.
> It helps in terms of flow. Negative results are easy to get if you take too much material away.


 This DIY is sh&t. If you want to turn your throttle into an on/off switch, then go for it. Those ramps are necessary for tip-in throttle response at a normal cruising RPM...I.E. torque whithout downshifting. 

You want to keep SOME of the ramp there. You want the ramps to ultimately look like this: 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre....new-build&p=65861441&viewfull=1#post65861441 

All the tip-in response, and none of the bottleneck @WOT.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> This DIY is sh&t. If you want to turn your throttle into an on/off switch, then go for it. Those ramps are necessary for tip-in throttle response at a normal cruising RPM...I.E. torque whithout downshifting.
> 
> You want to keep SOME of the ramp there. You want the ramps to ultimately look like this:
> 
> ...


 That's why I just have a professional do my head-work and porting. :thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Starting to assemble my wife's cabby, finally. Trying to figure out what cam to run with it. This car won't be anywhere near as fast as my GT, she'll only be running 1bar of boost. I have my NEUSPEED 268* 113lca in my shop, so I think that'll be thrown on tomorrow. 

Just got a cylinderhead back, great results. Anyone around Boston that needs good headwork done? I can have it done cheaply. Got an OBD1 head done up with 42/35 valves, aeg lifters, 3 angle valve job, gasket matched exhaust ports, blahblahblah. I think this cabby will put down ~200whp on low boost with a small cam. Good enough for her summer car. Still can't decide on suspension for it. It has to be the most comfortable suspension made for a Mk3, as I'm sure my daughters will go for rides in it occasionally. 
I'm thinking of my Koni Yellows with FK 60/40 springs, or a H&R 2.0/1.7 cupkit with Bilstein HD's, or maybe even H&R street coils or my UL's. I'm even considering KW 1's or CX racings But.. Idk. I guess it's up to my wife, really. 

And I finally finished my GTI's ram air set up properly. INSTANT throttle response above 30MPH in all gears. Haven't gotten a chance for high speed runs yet. I'm thinking of making it air-tight, oh, and even putting one of those Electric superchargers in for the extra power. Should get me up over 200whp easy! :laugh:


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## msalyards_21 (Apr 28, 2013)

*new to vws...*

my clutch in my 2000 golf went out and i decided to take the challenge and try to change it with me and a couple more experienced buddys of mine, and i was lookin for some help with the proper way of coming about do this.. 
any help??


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Wrong part of the forum bud.


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## 2.woah (Apr 29, 2013)

i read the thread and i like it a lot, lots of good information, thanks guys!!! 
but i have a question for all of you. 
im new to the vw scene, i bought a mk2 gti with a 2.0 8v swap (obd1 engine running obd2!) from my uncle.. 
it's all stock besides the swap. still running a 16v transmission. 
im trying to make it pretty quick for just a 2.0, but i cant decide on any parts really.. 

this is my first car!, but ive been working on cars for a long time so im not that inept.. im thinking cam, chip, exhaust, but i cant decide on a good set up.. any suggestions?? 
i talked to autotech and they said their 270 cam is the best 2.0 cam offered. is this true? 
i am having a custom 2.5" cat-back exhaust made for 200 dollars with a flowmaster muffler. 
im really confused on all the chip and cam options.. idk what to buy. i want enough hp to beat all these hondas around here.. as of now i beat eg civics with single cams, because my car is stripped behind the driver seats. i also have coil-overs, FKs.. just cant decide on engine mods. 
thanks for any help..


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

You want...

Techtonics 276* cam
United Motorsports cam chip
Adjustable cam gear
Forget a Flowmaster...chambered mufflers sound horrible on this engine. Go with a flowthru like borla or magnaflow.

With the lower chassis weight of a mkii and the high geared trans, it does not take much to make your car quick and very enjoyable. Get the exhaust, tuning and cam taken care of first and go from there. Then work on head work and such at a later time...


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## 2.woah (Apr 29, 2013)

911_fan said:


> You want...
> 
> Techtonics 276* cam
> United Motorsports cam chip
> ...


 i like flowmasters sound better, right now i have a small flowmaster muffler on my stock tiny gti exhaust system.. i think it's 50milimeters od or something. according to tt tuning they flow better than borla, so.. i'm sticking with flowmaster 44's.. 
do i need to get better stronger valve springs for a 276 degree camshaft? 
whos united motorsport? never heard of them.. 
tt tuning says 276 camshafts arent good with plenum manifolds. 
and is an adjustable camgear necessary? as i said this is my first car, i go to school and only work 25 hours a week as a cook.. i have 600 dollars to spend on this car, right now. but my friends say go vr6 swap. but i dont want to! 8v ftw.. 25mpgs and no attention from cops for "loud chewbacca exhaust sounds" like my friends with vr's.. 
600 dollars isnt enough i dont think.. 
cam is 200, chip is 150, exhaust is 200 (only 125 if i dont get a muffler, tho) and camgear is 100 
and heavy duty springs are 80.. plus gaskets and whatnot.. 
anyone got advice? oh and thanks 911_fan. you're very kind to noobs like me and i appreciate that!! 

Mr Hurt. i want to thank you for this thread.. it helped me a ton and thanks for stopping to talk to me that time at the community center.. your car is really nice i hope to make my car worthy of wearing the 8v badge!!


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## Adubbed (May 23, 2012)

Quick question guys. What kind of power can one expect from a fully built 8v. High compression, 276 cams, titanium valve train, etc. I'm still stuck between this and a 16v head conversion. Thanks


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

2.woah said:


> i like flowmasters sound better, right now i have a small flowmaster muffler on my stock tiny gti exhaust system.. i think it's 50milimeters od or something. according to tt tuning they flow better than borla, so.. i'm sticking with flowmaster 44's.. *No way a chambered muffler flows better than a straight through muffler. But its your car, so It's your choice.*
> 
> do i need to get better stronger valve springs for a 276 degree camshaft? *You are running an OBDI head, right? No you don't. The stock springs will handle that cam a .450" lift just fine. If you plan on auto-corssing or racing it later, then you might want to think about stronger springs.*
> 
> ...





Adubbed said:


> Quick question guys. What kind of power can one expect from a fully built 8v. High compression, 276 cams, titanium valve train, etc. I'm still stuck between this and a 16v head conversion. Thanks *Lets put it this way...the ABF, which was Europes 2.0 16v engine, was 150hp stock. To bump a 115hp ABA to 150hp takes a bit of work and money. A 16v, nice set of cams, and some port work will put you at 150whp right out of the box.*


 opcorn:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Adubbed said:


> Quick question guys. What kind of power can one expect from a fully built 8v. High compression, 276 cams, titanium valve train, etc. I'm still stuck between this and a 16v head conversion. Thanks


 I made 135whp with a 276* before I went to boost. 
16v head = PITA. It isn't as easy as it sounds, trust me. I was going to go 16v 2.0 in my wife's cabrio, realized what a pain it was and just bought another BBM S/C! But 16v's make 150 whp easy with bolt ons, like intake exhaust and cams. 

2.woah, listen to 911_fan. The 276* cam is a great upgrade, C2's tune is phenomenal and a 2.5" exhaust is more than adequate. With a SRI, you'd be at ~125-130 at the wheels, and in such a light car you'll be smoking Hondas with B16's and GSR spec B18's. I have the 2.0 16v transmission too, and I love mine. Mated to the 276*'s powerband it's nearly perfect. A way for you to save money would be to buy used/preowned. I have spare parts in my garage I'm trying to get rid of, and I'd be glad to help out a fellow townie. If you would like anything, just let me know. I remember you, your GTI is Montana green, isn't it? That's a really nice car, keep it clean. 

T, it's true, Flowmaster>Borla in most of the rev range.. Atleast in this application.


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

I can easily burn out in my bone stock 2.0 mkiv. Do i need new tires yet?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

coolalex said:


> I can easily burn out in my bone stock 2.0 mkiv. Do i need new tires yet?
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


 :laugh: 

The MK4's are geared so low burning out is pretty dang easy! When my wife's Mk4 was in it's prime, if you floored it in D it would just sit until it decided to shift up.. It'd go to 3rd gear at like 5 MPH. 

It's easy to chirp the tires in an 8v, too, I had a bone stock ABA swap Mk2 coupe with a 16v trans, and I was chirping 3rd with an aftermarket clutch. Then I looked down and saw I was only going 50 MPH, and cried, ahm, laughed harder.


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

Hurt said:


> :laugh:
> 
> The MK4's are geared so low burning out is pretty dang easy! When my wife's Mk4 was in it's prime, if you floored it in D it would just sit until it decided to shift up.. It'd go to 3rd gear at like 5 MPH.
> 
> It's easy to chirp the tires in an 8v, too, I had a bone stock ABA swap Mk2 coupe with a 16v trans, and I was chirping 3rd with an aftermarket clutch. Then I looked down and saw I was only going 50 MPH, and cried, ahm, laughed harder.


 Oh dang, thats good to know haha, i thought it was just my 1/32 tires :thumbdown:

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Peeling out on sand or a wet road doesn't count. 

Rookie.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Guys (and gals) 

Look, this is a great thread to post in and such, BUT, questions (like above) should be started in its own independent thread. It enables the specific question/answers to be searchable by title for future use. Posting and answering in someone else's thread detracts from that. 

Just sayin. :thumbup:


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## SR Heer (Jul 20, 2008)

Ok I will delete post - thanks for heads up!


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## leon whalen (May 28, 2007)

Adubbed said:


> Quick question guys. What kind of power can one expect from a fully built 8v. High compression, 276 cams, titanium valve train, etc. I'm still stuck between this and a 16v head conversion. Thanks


 aba16v's are easy to build, just don't get lost trying to follow the "sticky" in the Hybrid forum. if you want to build one, PM me & i will give you a complete list of parts and instructions. i built my first one before i even knew about vortex.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Guys (and gals)
> 
> Look, this is a great thread to post in and such, BUT, questions (like above) should be started in its own independent thread. It enables the specific question/answers to be searchable by title for future use. Posting and answering in someone else's thread detracts from that.
> 
> Just sayin. :thumbup:


 I second and third this. We want to keep this thread as clean as possible, and as helpful as possible.


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## ny_fam (Apr 3, 2004)

This thread had been really touting the 276 cam. I think for good reason. Thanks for that. I just ran this cam in the 2.0 older brother the 1.8. Was fantastic even with CIS. Highly recommended. For any 8 valve. I did have the lifter bores clearenced last time the head was off for "flow improvement", I don't think the 276 would fit otherwise in the counterflow 8 valve. I did run the 270 prior to the 276, and the 276 does make a noticeable difference. I didn't notice any low end power loss. Though my engine doesn't run the USRT intake just a scientific rabbit stage 3. 

BTW there is a USRT SRI in the mk3 classifieds now, for a good deal.  

Though I wouldn't classify the USRT as a true SRI, the runners are 8" long +4" inside the port. Take 4" off and thats an SRI! 

Cheers 
ny_fam


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

ny_fam said:


> Though I wouldn't classify the USRT as a true SRI, the runners are 8" long +4" inside the port. Take 4" off and thats an SRI!


 Sounds like their LRI instead of SRI model.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

ny_fam said:


> This thread had been really touting the 276 cam. I think for good reason. Thanks for that. I just ran this cam in the 2.0 older brother the 1.8. Was fantastic even with CIS. Highly recommended. For any 8 valve. I did have the lifter bores clearenced last time the head was off for "flow improvement", I don't think the 276 would fit otherwise in the counterflow 8 valve. I did run the 270 prior to the 276, and the 276 does make a noticeable difference. I didn't notice any low end power loss. Though my engine doesn't run the USRT intake just a scientific rabbit stage 3.
> 
> BTW there is a USRT SRI in the mk3 classifieds now, for a good deal.
> 
> ...


 The 276 is a great cam and it's pretty cheap. It seems to be the best all-around cam profile available. The 272* is great too, and it's 40 bucks cheaper. The autotech 270 is meh. I find autotech to be misleading in a lot of ways, like how they say the 270* is "the best cam available" and how they say you NEED a 200 dollar valve spring upgrade for their tiny 260/256 in a OBD2 car.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I found a pretty cool cam profile for people running OBD2 springs. 
It's a cat cam 273*. With 431" of lift, it's safe for OBD2 springs. It also has a wider lobe center than stock, (112 vs 110), for more low and mid range power, while providing more high end than a tt 260 or similar. 
PS: 
Anyone good at fabricating want to design a SRI manifold that would fit my BBM GT? I'm thinking if it's angled upward slightly it would clear the charger.. Right now I'm stuck with a SR stage 3 ported/polished MK4 manifold. I want more power! Nitrous kit is already set up, but I'm having trouble with wiring the dual stage set up.. Only one jet is active.. 
Dyno runs for the GTI next Saturday. Hoping for 140whp at the least, as my compression is over 11:1. More around 11.4:1 if my math is correct.. (stock 10.5, 0.5 headgasket, 050" decked head). 
Also going with VR6 injectors just for the hell of it so I don't lean out or have _any_ chance of leaning out. 
Since I just bought a VR Mk2 coupe, which I originally swapped, I'm going to need all the help I can get to get these 3 projects done by July. (my wife's cabrio, GTI 2.0, and the VR mk2 coupe). :banghead:


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Looks like you've got your work cut out for ya! That's an interesting cam profile indeed, wonder how it performs. Could you list your GTI's mods? Make sure to post results from the dyno, I'm interested to see what it makes :thumbup: 

Edit: you should also see how your gti stacks up to the vr coupe


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MahTrek=] said:


> Looks like you've got your work cut out for ya! That's an interesting cam profile indeed, wonder how it performs. Could you list your GTI's mods? Make sure to post results from the dyno, I'm interested to see what it makes :thumbup:
> 
> Edit: you should also see how your gti stacks up to the vr coupe


 I don't think the VR6 coupe would really have all that much on it, it's basically stock, and it's probably a couple hundred pounds heavier than the GTI.. But it's getting a 24v/6speed swapped in it asap, so that'll change. umpkin: 
The GTI has: 
Stock obd1 block (forged pistons on the way!) 
OBD1 head with great 5 angle valve job, 050” decked. P&P'd Gasket matched. 
TT 42/35mm valve kit with HD springs and titanium retainers. 
90mm headgasket 
Ported/deramped throttle body 
TT race header 
NEUSPEED 276* camshaft, .453" of lift (may go to 288*) 
NEUSPEED cam gear set to +4* 
2.5” mandrel bent piping from header back to NEUSPEED rear muffler (too loud!) 
NEUSPEED plug wires 
NEUSPEED low temp fan switch (custom fan/radiator set up coming soon) 
USRT SRI 
MARCH ram air kit, vent plastic welded to Ibiza lower lip. (Custom splitter being made to force more air in) 
USRT Catchcan 
C2 race file chip custom mapped, 8000 RPM rev limit, 900 RPM idle 
MSD ignition set up 
EuroSport underdrive pulleys, no AC/PS 
BBM fuel rail with VR6 fuel injectors 
MOROSO oilpan, 5.7qt capacity, 5w40 oil (synthetic) 
BBM oil cooler 

I'm sure there's stuff I'm forgetting, but that's just the engine mods. The recent KW V3 coils made a big difference, it feels like it's on rails. Feels much faster than my GT in the corners, but only on corner entry, through the turn the GT catches up.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?t=6032489


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?t=6032489


 If I didn't have mine I'd definitely pick those up!


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Right on man! Sounds like a blast to drive


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MahTrek=] said:


> Right on man! Sounds like a blast to drive


 I definitely enjoy driving it hard. With the new coils and wheels with 245/40/16's, it handles great, and with the 9a trans, it is near perfectly geared for hard driving. I only drop below 5k RPM shifting to 2nd (~4500 RPM). I shift it at 7400 RPM or so, and it's a blast. Even with the CHE 5th, it goes pretty good above 125 MPH (when I have to shift to 5th). I've gone ~130 (private road), and that is only ~5400 RPM, so it wasn't even at peak HP yet! 
It's not even a bad daily, really. It's comfortable except for the lack of power steering. I'm currently looking for lexan rear windows for more weight savings. :thumbup: 
I'm not going to a bigger camshaft because I don't want to lose any low end, because it still has nice low end power and that's crucial for auto-x and for tracks with lots of turns in low 2nd gear, I don't want to have to downshift to get through the turn, and I don't want to have to downshift while cruising at 2k rpm in the city to gain speed. 
The wife's cabby has sort of taken most of my attention lately.. Got the motor almost finished, bolted into the car. :vampire: 
Actually considering making a hard top for her cabrio. I think it'd look pretty Corrado-like.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

The GTI's forged piston kit came today. That's going to be a blast. Just got it together, time to tear it apart. :banghead: Hoping to get it finished by Saturday, as that's when I am going to the dyno. 

Anyone have any ideas for a camshaft bigger than my NEUSPEED 276* .453" lift, other than the tt 288? Maybe a happy medium, something with a wide lobe centre so I can keep some low end TQ? I really love the power of the GTI, but it needs a little bit more.. If I can find a ZF S/C kit, maybe I'd run that on the GTI.. Idk. 
I should really be focusing on my wife's cabby, but.. meh.. Engine is in, S/C is bolted up, transmission is almost done (need to make a shift box bracket for the 02m shiftbox) and just a few little things. Then body work, then suspension, then wheels, then interior/gauges/seats/blahblah. 

I'm actually considering Autotech's 2.1l stroker kit for my GT. That should give me a significant power boost. I finally got the nitrous jets to work properly, and it's scary!  

Thanks to everyone who supports this thread. I think we help quite a lot of people with it! This thread shows that all MK3 owners aren't "stance" freaks. Or whatever they call themselves now a days! :thumbup:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

There really is no happy medium unless you go custom ground. The difference between a 276 and a 288 is SIGNIFICANT! With the trans you have, I dont think you will suffer the same frustration I had with the stock CHE trans. I really think you should at least try a 288 before you do anything first. Power comes on at around 4000rpms, and it pushes you into the seat till 7000.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> There really is no happy medium unless you go custom ground. The difference between a 276 and a 288 is SIGNIFICANT! With the trans you have, I dont think you will suffer the same frustration I had with the stock CHE trans. I really think you should at least try a 288 before you do anything first. Power comes on at around 4000rpms, and it pushes you into the seat till 7000.


 Yeah, I think I may end up doing the 288*. I haven't driven a 288* car since my old coupe, and with the 6 speed it was okay above like 3k RPM.. but the low end tq just wasn't there. 

I think it really goes fine with the Neuspeed 276*, and the powerband is very nice. I can take a turn in 2nd gear, and instead of having to downshift to 1st coming out of it, just use 2nd and it'll pull very nicely right through the turn. Not to mention how hard it pulls to 7200+. And the SRI noise is intoxicating! I prefer the engine sound of the GTI to my GT. But the GT's exhaust sounds better.. but the GTI shoots flames more often. :laugh:


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Since you've got relatively high (for an ABA) compression, I would love to hear one of your detailed reviews on running a TT298* and matching cam profile software with your current setup. I know it's a stretch, but with the 298* you would have essentially the exact same setup I'm slowly acquiring parts for :thumbup: 

And after all, it's just one more performance cam to add to your collection :beer:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MahTrek=] said:


> Since you've got relatively high (for an ABA) compression, I would love to hear one of your detailed reviews on running a TT298* and matching cam profile software with your current setup. I know it's a stretch, but with the 298* you would have essentially the exact same setup I'm slowly acquiring parts for :thumbup:
> 
> And after all, it's just one more performance cam to add to your collection :beer:


 I had a 298* on my old track coupe for a while. And it was great for track use, but HORRID for street use. No power at all below 4k.. No low end TQ that makes the ABA so fun to drive, just great power to 8000+ RPM.. Shortly after I swapped in the 298*, I was pulled over on my way home from the track (No, It wasn't a trailer queen!) and I failed inspection, as I didn't have a CAT, my exhaust was too loud, and a few other stupid things.. (too low, only 1 headlight (track days I didn't run 2 headlights) and just general stupid things. So I wasn't able to drive it around much after that.. 
The 298* won't be swapped in the GTI. It's just not an option for me. That's a race cam, meant for bigger, longer tracks. The NEUSPEED 276* does a great job of getting me through corners in 1 gear higher than I should be in, meaning less downshifts for me, and better corner entry. I'm thinking after I install my forged pistons my compression will be a tad under 12:1.. so this car will be a great contender in Auto-X, SCCA, and track days. 
The GT will be getting an Auto-Tech 2.1 stroker kit as soon as I can find one for sale.. but unfortunately, I have been doing lots of work on my wife's cabby and not enough on my own cars.  Good thing is the Cabby is running, and it sounds great, nice and quiet. I haven't gotten to actually drive it because of the ghetto-rigged shift box, while I have a new bracket fabbed up. 
I'm thinking the cabby will put down around 200whp. Maybe more.. but the cam is small, the exhaust is small, and it is only running 15 psi. 
What I'm really hoping for is a 1/4 mile run for my GT.. Probably around 13.5 or less on my sticky street tires.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

13.5 with 270whp plus a 100 shot of nitrous?


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MahTrek=] said:


> 13.5 with 270whp plus a 100 shot of nitrous?


Without. Probably high 12's with the dual stage kit. The problem is wheel spin. I spin, even with my suspension tuned by a professional, until around 40. I break loose in 2nd gear if I just floor it under around 30.. I'm only running 225/45/16's, too, since I really don't care for the look of my 17's with 245's. With the dual stage kit, I'd have the first jet activate when I shift into 3rd, and the next when I shift into 4th. I'm worried about my clutch, as it's only rated at 350bhp.. so that's the next upgrade on the list, but I want something streetable, not an on/off switch. Then, if I can find a 2.1l Autotech kit, I will be very happy with this car. It's a very fun street car, and it's shown me that a 2.0 8v has a lot of potential.. it just costs a bit to unlock it.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Ah I see, interesting. 

That's the problem with high horsepower fwd platforms I guess. I'm sure it's a kick in the ass though :beer:

Thanks for your opinion on the 298* as well. :beer:

Cheers buddy


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## leon whalen (May 28, 2007)

Hurt said:


> I'm actually considering Autotech's 2.1l stroker kit for my GT. That should give me a significant power boost. I finally got the nitrous jets to work properly, and it's scary!
> 
> Thanks to everyone who supports this thread. I think we help quite a lot of people with it! This thread shows that all MK3 owners aren't "stance" freaks. Or whatever they call themselves now a days! :thumbup:


don't waste your money on the 2.1l stroker kit. justfind a used tdi crank and have a machine shop modify it for you. i did this swap myself a few years ago. $100 crank $40 to modify snout to fit crank pully. knife edged it myself to clear the oil squirters & $75 to have it reballanced. that is a lot less than the kit would be. i'm sure even a used kit will be pricey.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

leon whalen said:


> don't waste your money on the 2.1l stroker kit. justfind a used tdi crank and have a machine shop modify it for you. i did this swap myself a few years ago. $100 crank $40 to modify snout to fit crank pully. knife edged it myself to clear the oil squirters & $75 to have it reballanced. that is a lot less than the kit would be. i'm sure even a used kit will be pricey.


I've never heard of the TDI swap, sounds a bit odd to me. 
The Autotech swap is 2500, so it's not that expensive. I could easily recoup ~1000 selling my old block/piston set. 

I'm really looking forward to saturday for the GTI's dyno runs. I've been working on the car all day, trying to get the new pistons buttoned up. :thumbup:


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## 2.woah (Apr 29, 2013)

so forum, I got a tt 272 cam barely used from colm, and a c2 chip tune, and a tt camgear for 300 dollhairs. :thumbup:
i got exhaust made by my uncle for only 100 (mandrel bend and pipe cost and weld wire) it's a 2.5" from the dp back with a thrush glasspack.. its loud..
so i have ~400 left on my budget for engine upgrades. what next? a header? new intake manifold?
im running a obd1 engine on obd2 in a mk2 gti for reference.. thanks guys..
right now i only have the exhaust and chip in (waiting to do the cam this weekend!) and it really goes pretty good, 120 in 4th gear at redline!!


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

2.woah said:


> so forum, I got a tt 272 cam barely used from colm, and a c2 chip tune, and a tt camgear for 300 dollhairs. :thumbup:
> i got exhaust made by my uncle for only 100 (mandrel bend and pipe cost and weld wire) it's a 2.5" from the dp back with a thrush glasspack.. its loud..
> so i have ~400 left on my budget for engine upgrades. what next? a header? new intake manifold?
> im running a obd1 engine on obd2 in a mk2 gti for reference.. thanks guys..
> right now i only have the exhaust and chip in (waiting to do the cam this weekend!) and it really goes pretty good, 120 in 4th gear at redline!!


MK4 intake manifold if you can't afford a SRI.
Do a P&P head, and get 040" decked off for a 10.7:1 CR. 
Make a custom intake with a nice source of cold air.
Possibly a header (raceland, obx)
If you need any other help, just call me.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Ugh, now i remember why i hate side mount intercoolers....AIT's at 100-110*. Talk about a power loss.  Need a front mount baaaaad.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

For the passat?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Yep


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Do any companies sell a fmic/piping setup? Or would you just get the intercooler and fab up some piping yourself?


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I should be able to help you out when I get the chance, T! I figured out the dimensions of that core, you should see what other B5 drivers use and see if it'll fit without major modification. The core is 21 long, ~3 deep, 9 high. It's in pretty good shape, I had my neighbor's son straighten the fins for me for fixing his bike. :laugh:
Dyno runs are delayed due to the fact my engine isn't assembled completely yet. 
I think it's partly due to my switching a few parts out for newer,better,parts, but.. still..It's an hour of dyno time that I paid for that I'm not even going to use.. So I'll be bringing the GT and try my hand to get the cam gear set up properly. I've found that -2* FEELS the best, but that isn't always the best overall, as everyone knows. Baaaah


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

That should work. I have to take the bumper cover off soon to remove the fogs and replace the snub mount. Next saturday come by and we can test fit it. PM or text me.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> That should work. I have to take the bumper cover off soon to remove the fogs and replace the snub mount. Next saturday come by and we can test fit it. PM or text me.


I'm not entirely sure that I would be around Saturday, I'm fighting not to get sent to ME again for Business.. I took a friggin vacation and I still get called in. What kind of BS is that?! :banghead:

Today, while I had my dyno time, I took advantage of that to get a baseline for my wife's cabrio, and tune my GT's cam gear.
210whp @ 6500 on BBM software, with a 268* NEUSPEED cam set to 0*. Should be over 225whp with C2 software, revving higher (wouldn't go over 6500..)
The GT put down 275 with the camgear set to -5*, but lost over 15lb/ft of TQ.. With the gear set to +4*, it returned 270, with a ~10lb/ft torque gain down low. :thumbup: (atleast I hit my 275whp goal!!)
The GTI is running and driving, just needs a few hundred miles to break the new parts in.. didn't want to risk ruining anything while driving it hard. I'm thinking my compression is over 12:1 now. (11:1 pistons, +0.5 headgasket, .050" decked head). With 93 octane it's running great.
I have to scan and upload the dyno sheets when I get home. :thumbup:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

You around during the weekdays? How far are you from Woburn? I work in Woburn now. Ugh, bumper cover is definitely coming off next saturday, would be a shame not to at least test fit the core while the car is apart.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> You around during the weekdays? How far are you from Woburn? I work in Woburn now. Ugh, bumper cover is definitely coming off next saturday, would be a shame not to at least test fit the core while the car is apart.


Taken to PM's to not clutter up the thread 

Does anyone know if the MK6 2.0 8v's have VVT or not, or if the other Mk2/Mk3/mk4 meant hydro cams will work in them? I get tons of Q's like that, and I feel bad that I can't answer them.


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## 2.woah (Apr 29, 2013)

Hurt said:


> MK4 intake manifold if you can't afford a SRI.
> Do a P&P head, and get 040" decked off for a 10.7:1 CR.
> Make a custom intake with a nice source of cold air.
> Possibly a header (raceland, obx)
> If you need any other help, just call me.


i just picked up a used head from a yard.. would you be able to have it machined for me? or recommend somewhere that does good work?
and maybe help me install my cam? i'd pay you! i found a header by pacesetter on Amazon for 135 dollars, so im buying that. i made a cold air intake with a ebay 95'-99 eclipse 420a intake kit, it looks cool and sounds good!! thanks so much


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## eurican (Mar 10, 2001)

Ok, so I guess I should finally write what I have done so far.

Currently I have:

Neuspeed Supercharger with upgraded 2.6" pulley
C2 Stage I Turbo Software
Neuspeed hydraulic 256 camshaft
EIP Big Valve cylinder head 
ARP undercut cylinder head studs
30 lb injectors
Brospeed ceramic coated header
Neuspeed adjustable came gear (advanced 2 degrees)
P&P lower manifold coated by JET-HOT
Neuspeed short shift kit
Clutchnet 6 button “E-Z LOCK” ™ sprung hub clutch disc
Luk 16V pressure plate with a stock flywheel
Peloquin 80% Differential Locking Kit
Techtonics SS 2.25" exhaust with Borla muffler (recently eliminated the resonator)

At the dyno my numbers were: 154.63 hp and 163.70 ft/lbs (still need to figure out the afr)









I plan on running a TT 266 cam along with a NewSouth Performance gasket. Afterwards, I will go to a 2.4" (maybe 2.3") pulley along with a water/meth stage II Snow Performance kit.

Pic of the car.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Hurt said:


> Taken to PM's to not clutter up the thread
> 
> Does anyone know if the MK6 2.0 8v's have VVT or not, or if the other Mk2/Mk3/mk4 meant hydro cams will work in them? I get tons of Q's like that, and I feel bad that I can't answer them.


Yes and no ...

The intake cam is advanced for cold starts then goes back to normal degree. Like the MKIV BWM(?) and 1.8t's did. And, like the 1.8t's, Im sure if a tuner ever decided to make a tune for it they would be able to incorporate that into their tune parameters. The tuners were actually doing that for years and kept it a secret lol. So theoretically, you could install an intake cam gear (if they made one like this) that is set to -4~8* normally and then manipulate the VVT timing to run advanced up to a certain rpm, then change back to retarded timing up top. Basically, a VTEC-like setup.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Yes and no ...
> 
> The intake cam is advanced for cold starts then goes back to normal degree. Like the MKIV BWM(?) and 1.8t's did. And, like the 1.8t's, Im sure if a tuner ever decided to make a tune for it they would be able to incorporate that into their tune parameters. The tuners were actually doing that for years and kept it a secret lol. So theoretically, you could install an intake cam gear (if they made one like this) that is set to -4~8* normally and then manipulate the VVT timing to run advanced up to a certain rpm, then change back to retarded timing up top. Basically, a VTEC-like setup.


Nothing like VTEC. VTEC engines have a second set of cam lobes that get activated with oil pressure through a soleniod at a set rpm.... It would be similar to a VANOS system.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Eurican,

Nice numbers! Your setup would love TT's new wide lobe center 276* FI cam. Along with a bigger exhaust :thumbup:


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## eurican (Mar 10, 2001)

MahTrek=] said:


> Eurican,
> 
> Nice numbers! Your setup would love TT's new wide lobe center 276* FI cam. Along with a bigger exhaust :thumbup:


Thanks. I talked to Collin today about the 276 and he still recommended that I go with the 266 since it will give me low end power. I'm not really looking to push my car past 6500 RPM, but if someone can convince me with a dyno chart the difference between a 266 and a 276 FI cam then I may just buy it.

As for the exhaust, I can't see spending more money on an exhaust system that I have which is basically brand new (being ~7 years old now). Unless it gives me crazy gains.

-Chris.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

270 vs NA 276 30 minutes apart. No torque Loss with the 276.


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## eurican (Mar 10, 2001)

Thanks! Do you expect the 276 FI cam to be slightly lower in power than the 276 NA, or the same?



911_fan said:


> 270 vs NA 276 30 minutes apart. No torque Loss with the 276.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Dont know, never ran one. But its got less lift and a 112.7* LSA. Power delivery should be a bit stronger down low over the NA cam.


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## eurican (Mar 10, 2001)

After hearing some of these 276 cams on Youtube, I don't know if I can put one on my car. Just can't see myself driving a decent looking car that sounds like it wants to die at idle. 



911_fan said:


> Dont know, never ran one. But its got less lift and a 112.7* LSA. Power delivery should be a bit stronger down low over the NA cam.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

eurican said:


> Thanks! Do you expect the 276 FI cam to be slightly lower in power than the 276 NA, or the same?


Slightly more power for sure, I've ran both TT's cams. 
It's a great camshaft.
And your idle will be fine if your idle is above 900 RPM.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

eurican said:


> After hearing some of these 276 cams on Youtube, I don't know if I can put one on my car. Just can't see myself driving a decent looking car that sounds like it wants to die at idle.


Thats the silliest thing i have ever read! You should have heard my old car running a 288* at a 850rpm idle. Sounded fantastic!


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Oh, and I ran all my other cams 276 and smaller, at stock idle speed. No stalling, no CELs, nothing. It just sounded mean.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Oh, and I ran all my other cams 276 and smaller, at stock idle speed. No stalling, no CELs, nothing. It just sounded mean.


x2
I've run just about every tt cam with a stock idle. I don't care for the lobing noises, though, a half second of hearing nothing during idle is a bit odd sounding. :laugh:


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Hurt said:


> I've never heard of the TDI swap, sounds a bit odd to me.


It's the original way of doing a 2.1 stroker before expensive kits. You use the 95.5mm crank and 9A pistons. It's pretty much what you get in Autotech's kit, but you're basically paying more than $1,500 for their crank. Even if you wanted to purchase new, you can get a forged 95.5mm crank and the JE 83.5mm pistons cheaper than Autotech's kit. Eurospec used to sell a kit. Think they still sell just the cranks too, knife edged and balanced. There are other sources for forged cranks too, but I don't have them handy. I was going to build a stroker when I originally built my old ABA 10 years ago. Still thinking about doing it since I got a couple spare blocks and heads.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> It's the original way of doing a 2.1 stroker before expensive kits. You use the 95.5mm crank and 9A pistons. It's pretty much what you get in Autotech's kit, but you're basically paying more than $1,500 for their crank. Even if you wanted to purchase new, you can get a forged 95.5mm crank and the JE 83.5mm pistons cheaper than Autotech's kit. Eurospec used to sell a kit. Think they still sell just the cranks too, knife edged and balanced. There are other sources for forged cranks too, but I don't have them handy. I was going to build a stroker when I originally built my old ABA 10 years ago. Still thinking about doing it since I got a couple spare blocks and heads.


If you could find the links, could you send me them? I've already got an Autotech kit BNIB that I bought, but if I can resell it and save a grand that's money I can put in my other cars.

Thanks for the info. I appreciate it a lot.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

These are some sources for cranks. You can try INA Engineering too, as I know they previously used to sell them. You can get 100mm to do a 2.2L. I don't think you'd save $1k this way, but maybe half depending on what you can get the pistons for. If you got a used crank you'd definitely save more.

http://www.bildon.com/catalog/results.cfm?category=Engine&SubCategory=Crankshafts&Nav=6
http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_154_51
http://www.eurospecsport.com/products/components/performance-4cyl-crankshafts.htm


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> These are some sources for cranks. You can try INA Engineering too, as I know they previously used to sell them. You can get 100mm to do a 2.2L. I don't think you'd save $1k this way, but maybe half depending on what you can get the pistons for. If you got a used crank you'd definitely save more.
> 
> http://www.bildon.com/catalog/results.cfm?category=Engine&SubCategory=Crankshafts&Nav=6
> http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_154_51
> http://www.eurospecsport.com/products/components/performance-4cyl-crankshafts.htm


From what I looked up, it will cost 1250 for the USRT 100mm crank, and 700 for forged 9a pistons, plus or minus 900 for rods.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Hurt said:


> From what I looked up, it will cost 1250 for the USRT 100mm crank, and 700 for forged 9a pistons, plus or minus 900 for rods.


Yeah, you don't really need the rods unless you wanted for peace of mind. The Autotech kit doesn't come with them and expects you to use OEM ABA rods. The Eurospec kit came with new alloy steel rods, cheaper than Autotech, but smaller stroke. I'd probably just keep the kit you have. More significant savings is only achieved if you source a used crank. They go for around $300 or less in the classifieds and ebay all the time.


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## Lowriderlarry (Dec 1, 2012)

Awesome:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> Yeah, you don't really need the rods unless you wanted for peace of mind. The Autotech kit doesn't come with them and expects you to use OEM ABA rods. The Eurospec kit came with new alloy steel rods, cheaper than Autotech, but smaller stroke. I'd probably just keep the kit you have. More significant savings is only achieved if you source a used crank. They go for around $300 or less in the classifieds and ebay all the time.


I'd just get rods for the peace of mind, since I'm running 1.5bar of boost and I'm spraying sequential 50hp jets.. It can't hurt, you know?
I'm debating the custom eurospec/bbm 9a piston 2.2l or Autotech 2.1l.. I'd keep my compression ratio as it is with the custom set up. I'm not 100% about the Autotech. It didn't come with instructions. I wonder how much HP I'd get. I'd hope for over 300whp if I went with the 2.2l but meh, I'm done hunting numbers. I made my 275, and that's what I wanted. 

Oh, .zero,
I found someone selling a VF supercharger locally, and I talked to them. They told me that the GIAC chip came with it stock. Is that true? And I looked at how it's set up on his engine, why is the crankcase breather going to the compressor side of the charger?! So odd. 
If he drops his price, I'm going to buy it and put it on my GTI and pray it works good with the GTI's high compression.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Hurt said:


> I found someone selling a VF supercharger locally, and I talked to them. They told me that the GIAC chip came with it stock. Is that true? And I looked at how it's set up on his engine, why is the crankcase breather going to the compressor side of the charger?!


Not sure on the VF chargers. They were different kits for VR6 only. They did have an exchange/upgrade program with the old Z-Engineering kits at one point though. The VF units had an oil return line and not self-contained. The Z-Engineering kits did come with a GIAC chip. I'm pretty sure the VF kits used GIAC too and had two different tunes for stage 1 and 2. Really you should be able to get anyone to do a tune. One of my kits had a GIAC and the other a United Motorsports with 30# injectors. 

The crankcase breather is weird. He may have it hooked up wrong, but then it'd be blowing oil everywhere. There's a special intake tube with the breather hose that attaches pre-charge with cone filter on end. I've seen some people not run it and just throw a small cone directly on charger. Both of the charge pipes I got in two kits had a port for OEM breather hose. I wasn't thinking when I installed the first time, put just a cone on the charger and hooked the breather hose up like normal. Spewed oil everywhere under boost..lol. It has to be blocked off or use the special tube with breather hose attached. The way it's setup will cause some oil to get in turbine unless you run a catch can. It wasn't that bad though, and they recommend cleaning it at like 3k mile intervals with oil change. The tube I'm talking about is the one in front left of this pic:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> Not sure on the VF chargers. They were different kits for VR6 only. They did have an exchange/upgrade program with the old Z-Engineering kits at one point though. The VF units had an oil return line and not self-contained. The Z-Engineering kits did come with a GIAC chip. I'm pretty sure the VF kits used GIAC too and had two different tunes for stage 1 and 2. Really you should be able to get anyone to do a tune. One of my kits had a GIAC and the other a United Motorsports with 30# injectors.


I'm just worried because my GTI is well over 11.5:1 compression. I'm not sure if the Supercharger will work properly or safely. But the guy only wants 800 bucks, so I'm buying it anyway.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

I vote keep the GTI all motor and put the charger on another project! :thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MahTrek=] said:


> I vote keep the GTI all motor and put the charger on another project! :thumbup:


Yeah I've come to the conclusion that there's too much compression.
If I do another project, it'll be a cheap Jetta DD, since I want to keep my GLI's miles down, and keep my GT's paint fresh as long as I can. 
I managed to find a low mile memory red car and I may end up purchasing it, even if it's expensive and automatic.. But I have to go to North Carolina to pick it up. ;O


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Score, bought a 95' Golf Sport from a friend. It has no engine, trans, or suspension, she sold alot of parts from it.. Buuut I will be rebuilding it. My plans are:
VF engineering S/C kit which I just bought recently, on a 2.0 :thumbup:
Or a 24v 6 speed VR. 
Obviously the VR would be a difficult swap.. Unless I buy a plug and play harness.. Leaning to 2.0 for MPG reasons.

My plans for this dd are:
1. fix the strut towers, possibly buy new/better/cleaner strut towers.
2. weld in new rocker panels, paint them, patch floors, POR15.
3. OBD1 engine swap with P&P'd head, stock compression, running OBD2 C2 stage I boost software or C2 stage I N/A file (idk) VF kit. Autotech 260/256 cam (bought a lot of autotech products in the 30% off sale!) Autotech 2.5" exhaust (already on shell) Brospeed header. Autotech wires, camgear, USRT SRI if possible.
4. 02A transmission swap, .71 5th gear, No LSD, as this isn't a high HP build, just a dd.
5. Suspension. H&R UULs most likely. 
6. Cosmetic fixes. New paint on rockers, new headlights, exterior (side skirts, new tails, etc), wheels (Corrado G60 steelies).

I think this will be a pretty solid daily, MPG wise and power wise. Not sure how much HP I'd have, I've never really run a VF car.. but it should be adequate.

.Zero, I would like your expertise on the 2.0 VF cars. What do you think I should do as far as boost levels? What will the stock pulley give me for boost? The 260/256 cam should be great for a dd, since I already have one on hand, but I have a few other cams too, I have to take a look at my list in the garage tomorrow. How about software? Can I run one of my USRT SRIs? Advice would be great. :thumbup:


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Hurt said:


> .Zero, I would like your expertise on the 2.0 VF cars. What do you think I should do as far as boost levels? What will the stock pulley give me for boost? The 260/256 cam should be great for a dd, since I already have one on hand, but I have a few other cams too, I have to take a look at my list in the garage tomorrow. How about software? Can I run one of my USRT SRIs? Advice would be great. :thumbup:


Post pics of the kit when you can because if it's an actual VF charger, they never offered it for 2.0. You'd have to get some custom brackets to mount it unless the PO had them made for 2.0 already. The VF kits had 3 stages at 6, 8, and 10 psi I believe. The stage 2 was just a smaller pulley, injectors, bypass valve and different GIAC tune. Stage 3 was everything from stage 2 but added side mount intercooler, high flow fuel pump, tune, and maybe smaller pulley. 

You should be able to run an SRI, but it might depend on TB side and could still be tight. I never tried mounting my SRI cause the charger blew up first. It seemed like it would fit, but in the Z-Engineering kit, there are alternator relocation brackets that raise the position of alternator. My SRI wasn't completely round and had a flat spot where alternator is, but with relocation and charger mounting brackets, it may not have had clearance to work. Also, the Z-Engineering kits came with a 4 bar FPR. I don't know if the VF kits came with different fueling other than what's in the stage 2 and 3 upgrades.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I got the names confused. It was on a 2.0 before I bought it. It's a centrifugal charger. When it arrives I'll get some pictures to you, it looks just like the picture you posted a few posts up, same intake set up with the weird silicone hoses that connect to the crank case breather. 
Hopefully it'll be decent enough for a daily. I started fixing the strut towers today, engine/trans going in next. :thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Thinking about making some sort of 2.0 performance website/shop. With stages, like:

*Stage 1 upgrade kit for OBD1 - *
268* cam
2.25" or 2.5" TT exhaust (buyer's choice)
TT cam chip
Eurospec panel filter

*Stage I upgrade kit for OBD2:*
260* cam or 268*/260* (buyer's choice)
2.25" or 2.5" exhaust (buyer's choice)
C2 chip
Eurospec filter

*Stage II upgrade kit for OBD1:*
272* cam
2.5" exhaust
TT cam chip
eurospec filter

*Stage II upgrade kit for OBD2:*
Autotech's 270* upgrade kit, complete with HD valve springs
2.5" exhaust
Raceland header
C2 chip
Eurospec filter

*Stage III upgrade kit for OBD1:*
276* camshaft
TT adjustable camgear
HD valve springs
Raceland header
2.5" exhaust 
MK4 intake manifold swap kit (MAF wiring extension, IAT extension, drill + tap for IAT sensor, etc) Or USRT SRI w/VR6 throttle cable
TT cam chip
Custom CAI set up for the MK4 mani swap. 
90mm headgasket for extra compression (optional)
ARP headstuds (optional)


*Stage III Upgrade kit for for OBD2:*
276* camshaft
TT adjustable camgear
HD valve springs
Raceland header
2.5" exhaust (Autotech/Magnaflow or NEUSPEED or TT)
MK4 intake manifold swap kit (MAF wiring extension, IAT extension, drill + tap for IAT sensor, etc) Or USRT SRI w/VR6 throttle cable
C2 chip
Custom CAI set up for the MK4 mani swap. 
90mm headgasket for extra compression (optional)
ARP headstuds (optional)

*Stage IV upgrade kit for OBD1 (not emissions compliant):*
276* cam
TT adjustable camgear
USRT SRI
MK4 exhaust manifold
TT race downpipe
2.5" exhaust
TT cam chip, custom 7500 RPM rev limit
90mm Headgasket for more compression
ARP headstuds

*Stage IV upgrade kit for OBD2 (not emissions compliant):*
276* cam
TT adjustable camgear
USRT SRI 
MK4 exhaust manifold
TT race downpipe
2.5" exhaust
C2 race file chip, custom 7500 RPM rev limit
90mm Headgasket for more compression
ARP headstuds 



Of course they'd be able to buy just parts for the upgrade kits, and they'd be able to decide between what muffler they want on the TT system, what size pipes, resonator(s), or if they want something like an Autotech/Magnaflow, or a NEUSPEED system.
And they'd also include all the necessary gaskets, lube, lifters, bolts, etc,etc, needed for installation, along with instructions (I could make DIY videos). 
I can't see the price pass 2k for even the Stage IV kit:
TT cam - 180
HD spring kit 80 obd1, 200 obd2
camgear - 70
SRI - 700
Mk4 exhaust manifold - 25-50 at local Junkyard
tt race downpipe - 275
2.5" exhaust - 350 at lowest (tt flowmaster), 500 for 2.5" autotech SS, 500 for NEUSPEED.
Chip - 105 obd1, 150 obd2

So, it'd be 1795/1950 for the OBD1/OBD2 stage IV kit with tt aluminized exhaust, and you'd see around 130whp. And that's retail, buying the parts off of vendors. I'm sure for the prices, I'd be able to manage getting the necessary gaskets and throw in a set of lifters. 

What do you guys think of this? Seems like a pretty good idea to me.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

I like the sound of Hurt Performance! lol.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Not how I'd do that list, but I'll keep my opinion to myself as I'm not even relevant on this forum any longer.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Not how I'd do that list, but I'll keep my opinion to myself as I'm not even relevant on this forum any longer.


What? Of course your opinion is relevant, T.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

My opinion is that your 'stages' are a bit ambitious and don't really reflect on what the average consumer is capable of installing on their own. You want the average Joe to be able to get these kits and put them in by themselves. These different levels should instead reflect whp levels achieved; 110whp, 115whp, and 120whp. These three goals are easily achievable with just a filter, cam, and cat-back exhaust on a stock head (except when springs are needed), emission compliant, and with the stock manifolds and cat are in place. For the average dude, this is enough. Going through Techtonics alone will also be key; not just for the ease on your end for procuring parts, but to also sell a proven pwer kit and to be able to get all the parts at cost. 

I wouldnt use any tune other than Techtonics for no other reason than its a proven, toruble-free box tune. There are no issues like with the C2/PEM/UM tunes...you know which ones Im talking about. The camshafts are the most popular and cover all three stages you would need. I would go with the 260*, 266*, and the 276*. I know the AT 270* is the popular go-to fast road cam, but the 266* is so close to it that there is no difference. And finally their exhaust systems are second to none. And the fit perfect. 

All these other things you list in the stage 2 and 3 are just fluff. The priciniple power is going to be gained by the I/C/E upgrades. That should be THE basis to this whole kit offering; the only difference being when to buy valve springs on both OBDI and OBDII. Lets not forget, tHe MAIN power is going to come from port flowing the head, between 8-10% depending on which head you have) but that is something that obviously isnt going to be offered here. I would also add the other things a-la cart, like the cam gear (that doesnt add power), header (which you would have to somehow source at cost because I would NOT bother with a TT downpipe. Waste of money), I would not offer ANY kit related to a MKIV swap. You are just asking for trouble there. Instead, list a DIY on the website with an added option of a MAF extender they can purchase through you at an added cost. And also any other custom part. Skip the head gasket because you should be doing head work and shaving it for a compression boost if your stock head is coming off. 

Just keep it simple and 100% smog-compliant. (except stupid California ) 110,115, & 120whp goals are already proven with those three I/C/E options I listed. Every power gain after that is speculative at best.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Those are good cam picks, too.
I too think TT's exhausts are very good, and at $211 for a full catback (aluminzed dynomax) it's very very budget friendly. 
I also like the idea of sticking with TT products. 
I really hope TT doesn't steal our ideas. Lol. 
Those are ALL very good ideas and you're right, I didn't think of the average DIYer's abilities. 
I wish I could design some sort of tool that would hold the timing belt on the sprocket PERFECTLY without fail, 100% of the time, so it would make cam installation for beginners even easier..
Alas, I am quite busy right now, and I am being sent to ME in a week. But when things slow down, I may start a website. It would probably be cool, even if it isn't that profitable. 

Got a 2.0 with an 02A bolted into the 95' today. 
T, I know you know more about the factory options than me.. It's an OBD2 engine. OBD2 harness.. Dual valve spring head though.. and I pulled it from a 1996 Cabrio, fresh into the junkyard. Looked to be 100% stock inside and out. What be this? One of those rare "german" heads?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

TT's been in business since I was playing G I Joe during Saturday morning cartoons. I wouldn't be worried about them coming out with power packs anytime soon.

Let me know when you're ready to move forward with this, I can certainly help with ideas and DIY's. Yet another reason to spend the day drinking and brainstorming.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> TT's been in business since I was playing G I Joe during Saturday morning cartoons. I wouldn't be worried about them coming out with power packs anytime soon.
> 
> Let me know when you're ready to move forward with this, I can certainly help with ideas and DIY's. Yet another reason to spend the day drinking and brainstorming.


Oh man, I remember Saturday morning Cartoons.. But sometimes, they wouldn't be on when a church program took over the channel!! To 6 year old me, that wasn't cool, man. 

Sounds like you've got lots of ideas marinating in your noggin, T! I'd definitely be interested with that once things slow down. It'd be great. 

You didn't answer my Q, though, 
1996 Cabrio. 100% stock. OBD2 computer/sensors/wiring.. Buuut Dual rate springs. Is that a normal thing on certain engines? Production date on the Cabby I got the engine from was 10/95.. (on the door). I know you spoke of these weird things happening on certain heads. But why? Different build area? Left over parts? :O


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Is the Cabrio a non-SAI motor?


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

Hurt said:


> Oh man, I remember Saturday morning Cartoons.. But sometimes, they wouldn't be on when a church program took over the channel!! To 6 year old me, that wasn't cool, man.
> 
> Sounds like you've got lots of ideas marinating in your noggin, T! I'd definitely be interested with that once things slow down. It'd be great.
> 
> ...


That's a good thing, should be able to just throw a cam in, unlike other obd2 cars with single Springs 

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Havent been on in awhile but all my 8v friends are missed, I will be reading thru all that I have missed over the next few days... Unfortunately I had to take the plunge and put the turbo on the forums for sale... http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-MkIII-C2-chip-30-NNJ&p=81923063#post81923063

Certainly not trying to threadjack by any means just figured I'd give you all a heads up as its pretty cheap, and I am negotiable, the sooner the better to help my money woes 

So, I guess I'm staying NA


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

AJmustDIE said:


> I like the sound of Hurt Performance! lol.


_Hurt Performance_ does sound good albeit a bit of an oxymoron.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Is the Cabrio a non-SAI motor?


Yes, there's no SAI pump. That's why I'm a bit confused.
I'm still going with HD springs because I have a spare autotech kit sitting from the 30% off sale, but it's just really odd that certain engines were like.. Frankensteins.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Late 1995 build date car retrofitted for OBDII compliance to sell as a MY1996 car. I bet there are quite a few of these out there. Probably has squirters and forged rods too. Best of both worlds from the factory; OBDI awesomeness with OBDII tuning opportunities. Nice find.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

sold my Mk3 with the 276 and all that stuff for 4000 and bought a new Jetta for only 800 bucks, going to be my dd, mods to follow. so excited!! Supersport cupkit on its way.
its obd2, so i think i'm going to get a 260 cam and a exhaust and a chip and call it a day..


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## MK3 LUV (Nov 23, 2012)

LöW N SLö said:


> sold my Mk3 with the 276 and all that stuff for 4000 and bought a new Jetta for only 800 bucks, going to be my dd, mods to follow. so excited!! Supersport cupkit on its way.
> its obd2, so i think i'm going to get a 260 cam and a exhaust and a chip and call it a day..


link to build thread or gtfo


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

LöW N SLö said:


> sold my Mk3 with the 276 and all that stuff for 4000 and bought a new Jetta for only 800 bucks, going to be my dd, mods to follow. so excited!! Supersport cupkit on its way.
> its obd2, so i think i'm going to get a 260 cam and a exhaust and a chip and call it a day..


I have the TT 260 cam and TBH its weak sauce and I got bored of it after a few days... should've went with at least the 268/260 if not going to swap out springs...


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## ny_fam (Apr 3, 2004)

Agreement with 911_fan here, Hurt's stage kits are a good idea but they need to be expanded. Generally cost and ease of installation are the primary factors people use in determining what to upgrade.

I'd categorize them based on DIY bolt-ons, at least for the first few stages or power goals. They don't always need to be progressive either. So stage max bolt-on power= list all the DIY bolt-ons that one can do without special tools.

I know the Internet likes to talk about peak WHP numbers, but rarely do they matter in daily driving and racing. Power under the rpm curve matters the most, though harder to describe unless you use a 0-60 or other type metric.

I'd like to also suggest another bolt-on missing from your list that is the boss for adding lots of under the power curve, easy less than 2 hour bolt-on and doesn't cost much more than a good cam. The Scientific Rabbit Stage 3 ported MK4 8 valve intake.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

ny_fam said:


> Agreement with 911_fan here.
> 
> I know the Internet likes to talk about peak WHP numbers, but rarely do they matter in daily driving and racing. Power under the rpm curve matters the most, though harder to describe unless you use a 0-60 or other type metric.


Agreed. For this reason, having head work done running a small 260* will yield a greater increase than throwing a 276* in a stock head.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

anyone have any advice between these 2 camshafts?
tt tuning 260
Autotech 260

Both are the same price, but which one is the best for a dd? im guessing the tt cam is the best deal..
found a tt cam chip for 105 bucks on MJM autohaus..
exhaust is the cheapest at wRd, $211 for 2.25" exhaust! :thumbup:
anyone have reviews on flowmasters new exhaust system? its 2.25", SS, and only has 1 muffler. dual 3" tips.. no resonator or anything. Its on Amazon..


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## wantacad (Apr 4, 2003)

You know I really hate coming into this thread.. :banghead:

Right now I'm in the middle of an ABA swap in my 91 Golf. OBD1 block/OBD2 wiring. I have told myself from the get go that I was going to keep it simple and not do mods unless they were stupid cheap/simple/free. Anything is going to be better than that digicrap 1.8. :thumbdown: 

At one point I had an ABA with a TT 276 and 2.25 exhaust on megasquirt in a Rabbit. Holy hell it was a blast so I know what the feeling is but I knew I would prob lose my license if I kept it. :laugh:


So with all that said I come to this thread just to lurk and read everyones stories. I love the ABA and know it is an awesome motor that most people frown upon. 

But dammit you guys! All I want from my Golf is a simple daily driver that won't draw attention, give me good mpgs with 87 and allow me to retain my license. But nooooooo I have to come in here and read all this wonderful stuff and I can feel the money jumping out of my pocket.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

The difference between the TT260 and AT260 is significant. First off, the AT260 isnt a symmetrical cam like the TT is. It is really a 260/256 asymmetrical profile. Second, the AT260 has a lot less lift. 

Your money should be on the TT260.


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## 495306 (Oct 20, 2009)

Autotech is having a 30 percent of sale this memorial weekend. The autotech 2.5 exhaust is only $349.99


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

EuroSwoop said:


> Autotech is having a 30 percent of sale this memorial weekend. The autotech 2.5 exhaust is only $349.99


This is an awesome deal. If it had been going on when I purchased my exhaust I might have chosen it over the Neuspeed system. 

Don't get me wrong I LOVE the Neuspeed setup but I still really want to try Autotech out. Hmmmm


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

911_fan said:


> The difference between the TT260 and AT260 is significant. First off, the AT260 isnt a symmetrical cam like the TT is. It is really a 260/256 asymmetrical profile. Second, the AT260 has a lot less lift.
> 
> Your money should be on the TT260.


thanks, i think i'll get the tt260. 
since autotech is having a sale, i will buy a 2.5" system from them.. :thumbup:


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

@hurt how's the march ram air setup working? I think it might pair nicely with my new 2.25 Nuspeed exhaust.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## illwilll (May 30, 2006)

lol, I would love to learn more about MegaSquirting


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

illwilll said:


> lol, I would love to learn more about MegaSquirting


me too, especially since people make such good power on it.. someone made 125whp or something with a stock cam..


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

illwilll said:


> lol, I would love to learn more about MegaSquirting


Contact the Professor.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

blackspyder said:


> @hurt how's the march ram air setup working? I think it might pair nicely with my new 2.25 Nuspeed exhaust.
> 
> sent from mobile internet device.


Works great, instant throttle response in any gear above like 30 MPH.
Been having problems with the GTI, though, as it's too loud and it keeps spitting flame out the rear muffler.. I love the performance of the straight exhaust, but it is just too flipping loud. I'm thinking of getting a Vibrant resonator. They work great. As it is, you can barely hear your passenger inside of the car above 2k RPM.. I guess removing all the sound deadening didn't help, lol


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Yeah mine was deafening with a cat only (had to crank it up when I cut the old off  ), it wasn't a 454 with turndowns off the headers, but it was too loud to dd.

I'll have to give the march setup a shot, I may try dual inlets to see how well doubling the opening works.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

blackspyder said:


> Yeah mine was deafening with a cat only (had to crank it up when I cut the old off  ), it wasn't a 454 with turndowns off the headers, but it was too loud to dd.
> 
> I'll have to give the march setup a shot, I may try dual inlets to see how well doubling the opening works.
> 
> sent from mobile internet device.



The MARCH kit requires fabrication, and works the best with a SRI or custom intake set up. 
The inlet is plenty big. I have mine set up to my Ibiza lip, and I'm getting plenty of nice, cold air in there. It isn't good for a dd if you ask me, because if you were to hit a puddle while low, water is going right up to the filter..

I know what you mean. It's not as loud as my old 331 stroker Mustang, but it's loud.. I'm just going to remove the end muffler soon. It's not even worth having it there. I don't daily it, I drive it around when I'm bored and hope i don't get tickets. I'll throw in a Vibrant super stealth resonator, like I have on my GT, and call it a day. Vibrant makes wonderful products.. I may even throw on one of their custom turn down mufflers, so I can shave my rear euro bumper (I don't like exhaust cut outs that much). 
Hell, I may even go with one of their single inlet, dual outlet mufflers (meant for a v6/v8 car) and make side pipes with LS1 Camaro SS rectangular exhaust tips.. That'd look pretty cool, especially if I made some aluminum plates surrounding the tips like old muscle cars.. as it is, I'm leaning toward this option. Vibrant mufflers flow so well and they're nice and quiet.

One problem I've been having with the GTI since I put it back together is leaning out under WOT.. Idk why, it makes no sense, as I have VR6 injectors in there. Might have my buddy wire it up for MS3.. And I'm also considering a bigger cam. I really like my Neuspeed 276, but.. more power is always cool. I just don't want to lose my low end TQ for powering out of turns.. and I don't want to have to change my transmission. I love my 9a trans. I'm nearly done with this build, since the engine is complete, trans is complete, interior and exterior are complete. 

Since I purchased my surf green golf sport, I've been working on that. It's running and driving now, but the S/C kit I purchased for it needs a rebuild.. which the PO conveniently forgot to tell me. 
Body work is almost done on it, and it's a great dd..30-35 MPG's? Yes please! 

My GT's nitrous is fixed, which is awesome. I wired it wrong after all.
Wife's cabby is finished, which is cool.. no more nagging. Lol. 

Sorry about the long winded response. I've been busy lately.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

I'd have to get a kit and see the when's where's and how's of mounting the inlet(s).

Bodywork is taking up this summer I think.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Would anyone be interested in a custom MAF extension for MK4 manifold swaps? I have a good friend who's a great electrician (he does all my gauges and wiring) and I just found out I can order the male and female connector from VW brand new... so MAF extensions would be pretty easy to make and relatively cheap (20 bucks or so). I think that's why most people shy away from the MK4 swap - wiring extensions. 
I'm also contemplating making a 1.8T IAT sensor conversion/extension, for the MK4 intake swap, as well.
If demand is high enough, I think I'll have a batch made. :thumbup:


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

$20 to 30 i'd buy. Add some nice wire covering though, not heat shrink but,not the corrugated junk something cleaner but not as costly as shrink.

(sorry I'm not a fan of corrugated).

Eta: post up in other places too.


Came up with an idea for another style of ram air the 7.3 e 350 in my bay at work uses an intake that mounts between the hood and radiator. I may make some measurements and see what's possible.
sent from mobile internet device.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)




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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

AJmustDIE said:


>


:laugh:
I had that exact muffler on an old GTI of mine, loved the sound on a VR6.. got rid of a ton of raspyness paired with a Vibrant bottle style resonator. 
Since then, Vibrant mufflers and resonators all the way! I have part #1047 on my GT, it's a dual 3.5" outlet and it isn't flat black.. I don't like flat black and OEM black.. makes the muffler look dirty.. and a 18" bottle style resonator #1795. Love love love it. Way better than the full-boar muffler that came with the MBS system, and way quieter/better sounding than my old Magnaflow set up. :vampire:


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

Hurt said:


> Would anyone be interested in a custom MAF extension for MK4 manifold swaps? I have a good friend who's a great electrician (he does all my gauges and wiring) and I just found out I can order the male and female connector from VW brand new... so MAF extensions would be pretty easy to make and relatively cheap (20 bucks or so). I think that's why most people shy away from the MK4 swap - wiring extensions.
> I'm also contemplating making a 1.8T IAT sensor conversion/extension, for the MK4 intake swap, as well.
> If demand is high enough, I think I'll have a batch made. :thumbup:


I would buy both of those products, HURT PERFORMANCE FTW!

since i was told the autotech 260 cam is a crappy cam, I ordered a *tt* 260 for $135 from wrd.. some people said go with a 266 but on stock obd2 valve springs that sounds like a disaster waiting to happen..
I also ordered exhaust from them, for just $211! i know everyone says 2.5 is better than 2.25 for power but this isn't a race car its just my daily driver to get from school and work and back and for some track days! so idrc. and some people say they dont like the sound of dynomax mufflers, but i do, and thats what matters, right?
And since everyone says the only difference between a cam chip and a street chip is the idle, i ordered a regular tt chip for 85 bucks from mjmautohaus. Also picked up a complete mk4 intake swap for 25 bucks from the junkyard, even got the plastic engine cover! such a mad score. 
so.. under 500 dollars including misc. gaskets, and i'll have around 110whp if i have to guess?

So excited.. 
opcorn:


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

It's gonna sound and feel healthy that's for sure! ^ :thumbup:


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## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

Hurt said:


> Would anyone be interested in a custom MAF extension for MK4 manifold swaps? I have a good friend who's a great electrician (he does all my gauges and wiring) and I just found out I can order the male and female connector from VW brand new... so MAF extensions would be pretty easy to make and relatively cheap (20 bucks or so). I think that's why most people shy away from the MK4 swap - wiring extensions.
> I'm also contemplating making a 1.8T IAT sensor conversion/extension, for the MK4 intake swap, as well.
> If demand is high enough, I think I'll have a batch made. :thumbup:





ABSOLUTELY Colm....I could do the extensions but time and patience not spent in the bay on wiring means more for other areas of the build...I'm in, I'll take one of each myself !! :thumbup:


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

AJmustDIE said:


> It's gonna sound and feel healthy that's for sure! ^ :thumbup:


I got it all and bolted it up today, and it sounds pretty good! has an annoying pop sound at like 2200 rpm when slowing down though.. might change a muffler to a vibrant racing if i can get one for a reasonable price.. 260 camshaft next, waiting for my lifters to get here.


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## 2.slowduo (Sep 17, 2008)

I'm in for a maf extension. I've been wanting to do the mk4 mani swap for a while now.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

Hey guys, i installed my 260* cam today along with my tt chip, the 2.slow pulls much harder to redline now, even goes past it. I got a neuspeed camgear for $50 from a part out, its set to 0* currently.. any one have any first hand exp. with timing it? i'm thinking more top end would be nice.. so should i retard it? :sly:


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## 495306 (Oct 20, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Would anyone be interested in a custom MAF extension for MK4 manifold swaps? I have a good friend who's a great electrician (he does all my gauges and wiring) and I just found out I can order the male and female connector from VW brand new... so MAF extensions would be pretty easy to make and relatively cheap (20 bucks or so). I think that's why most people shy away from the MK4 swap - wiring extensions.
> I'm also contemplating making a 1.8T IAT sensor conversion/extension, for the MK4 intake swap, as well.
> If demand is high enough, I think I'll have a batch made. :thumbup:


ill buy maf extension and iat extension.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Looks like the demand is pretty high. I'm going to see how much supplies would cost, as soon as I can. Hopefully it'll be well under 35 dollars for both extensions. 
I don't plan to just ship wiring. I plan to ship instructions, too, with pictures, a complete DIY MK4 intake swap DIY, basically. That way it's plug and play and very easy even for an average Joe.


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## wantacad (Apr 4, 2003)

so you are extending the MAF and IAT. I assume that the TB has enough stretch for the swap?


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

lots of people use the mk4 aeg 2.0 cable and it works fine, thats what i used in my old car before i had a usrt mani!


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## wantacad (Apr 4, 2003)

LöW N SLö said:


> lots of people use the mk4 aeg 2.0 cable and it works fine, thats what i used in my old car before i had a usrt mani!


 but the wires for the TB? There was enough slack?


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

wantacad said:


> but the wires for the TB? There was enough slack?


yeah, the TB wiring was fine in my case


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## dasautovdub420 (May 10, 2012)

Quick question. To make the 2.0L ABA forced induction would I need a taller head gasket or lower compression pistons? I was told that I'd need either or because the motor obviously is 10:1 compression and for forced induction you need lower compressions? Just want some ideas of what people have to say thanks!


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

The compression is actually a hair under 10:1, but even so, its fine or a good amount of boost as long as your tune is spot on. If you want it lower, just double stack two OEM head gaskets.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

dasautovdub420 said:


> Quick question. To make the 2.0L ABA forced induction would I need a taller head gasket or lower compression pistons? I was told that I'd need either or because the motor obviously is 10:1 compression and for forced induction you need lower compressions? Just want some ideas of what people have to say thanks!


If you stay at or below 10psi you'll be ok, but a decent intercooler or water/meth will be a must, especially if you use a chip tune as opposed to a fully programmable EMS.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

dasautovdub420 said:


> Quick question. To make the 2.0L ABA forced induction would I need a taller head gasket or lower compression pistons? I was told that I'd need either or because the motor obviously is 10:1 compression and for forced induction you need lower compressions? Just want some ideas of what people have to say thanks!


Need? No, not so much. But it's a good idea to get a head spacer above moderate boost levels (10 PSI+)
The NEUSPEED supercharger keeps the stock compression ratio and will give you peak boost levels of around 7.5 psi with their power pulley.
The BBM kit (stage 1) also keeps the stock C/R, with around the same boost levels.
The stage 1 kinetic/C2 turbo kit also keeps the stock C/R, but they only recommend around 6-8 PSI without a front mount.

If you want to run a decent amount of boost, you should lower the C/R. Head spacers are cheap enough, and most good FI kits include them. Low Compression pistons? That's a last resort type thing. That was the last step for my 2.0 S/C.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Quick question, is there a highflow catalytic converter for the mk3 Jetta? Va requires a cat, and the previous owner cut the pipe at the cat and dropped the exhaust size down to 1.75". I adapted it back up for the 2.25" Nuspeed kit.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

blackspyder said:


> Quick question, is there a highflow catalytic converter for the mk3 Jetta? Va requires a cat, and the previous owner cut the pipe at the cat and dropped the exhaust size down to 1.75". I adapted it back up for the 2.25" Nuspeed kit.
> 
> sent from mobile internet device.


Yes, TT sells one. But from what I've seen it's just a stock VR6 CAT. 
http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_13_60_551&products_id=1671


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Ahh. If the po had left me any room to cut and weld I'd leave the old one. I'll see where else I can land a vr6 cat.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## engineman98 (May 31, 2008)

Is anyone running a mkiv tubular exhaust manifold on an aba? Any gains from it other than looks? 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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## wantacad (Apr 4, 2003)

engineman98 said:


> Is anyone running a mkiv tubular exhaust manifold on an aba? Any gains from it other than looks?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


it is a few lbs lighter.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

engineman98 said:


> Is anyone running a mkiv tubular exhaust manifold on an aba? Any gains from it other than looks?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


I do. 
You'll need to use a aftermarket downpipe for clearance issues on a MK3.. The benefits are around a 12% increase in flow, since it's tubular.. It's slightly lighter as well.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

blackspyder said:


> Ahh. If the po had left me any room to cut and weld I'd leave the old one. I'll see where else I can land a vr6 cat.
> 
> sent from mobile internet device.


Honestly the 2.0 CAT isn't that restrictive to begin with, and there's only a few HP to be had by getting a test pipe. IMO a high flow CAT is a moot point for a ABA.. Try to find someone parting out a 2.0 or a VR6 and see if you can snag the CAT for cheap. Don't bother with paying 300 bucks for a high flow cat.


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## engineman98 (May 31, 2008)

Hurt said:


> I do.
> You'll need to use a aftermarket downpipe for clearance issues on a MK3.. The benefits are around a 12% increase in flow, since it's tubular.. It's slightly lighter as well.


Im going to be putting it into my aba swapped MKI. I have a TT downpipe for a mKI aba swap that is bolted to a MKII manifold. Im just wondering if the manifold is overall the same angle and length before I go to the trouble of pulling the old one off to find out the MKIV manifold doesnt fit or something.

Edit:

After a few minutes of searching I found a MKI with an aba/JH swap which is the same height wise as an aba. He managed to make it fit with a TT downpipe.

http://www.mk1dubz.com/forums/showthread.php?t=172


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

^
That's the gist of it from what I've seen on most platforms (A1, A2, A3).


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## dasautovdub420 (May 10, 2012)

911_fan said:


> The compression is actually a hair under 10:1, but even so, its fine or a good amount of boost as long as your tune is spot on. If you want it lower, just double stack two OEM head gaskets.


Stack two gaskets? Really? Never heard of that one . Has anyone ever done this? Also for a S/C could I use one from another car perhaps? One that will fit? A friend of mine ran a Grand Prix M60 I believe on his Aston Mini. Thanks for any advice!


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Stacking gaskets is common practice for a lot of engines.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Hurt said:


> Yes, TT sells one. But from what I've seen it's just a stock VR6 CAT.
> http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_13_60_551&products_id=1671


That's their special California model. Their standard high flow is like $250 shipped from GAP with all hardware/bolts. It looks similar to a VR6, but it most likely has a less restrictive honey comb. I recently installed one to replace a clogged 2.0. Exhaust is a tad louder and pops a little on down shifts. I was going to get something cheaper, but had money to burn at the time.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

zero. said:


> That's their special California model. Their standard high flow is like $250 shipped from GAP with all hardware/bolts. It looks similar to a VR6, but it most likely has a less restrictive honey comb. I recently installed one to replace a clogged 2.0. Exhaust is a tad louder and pops a little on down shifts. I was going to get something cheaper, but had money to burn at the time.


Oops. 
That's the only part I dislike about CAT deletes - the increased popping. My GTI's got a straight pipe to a NEUSPEED muffler and it pops sooooo much when engine braking.. And it's way too loud to drive around town. I managed to pick up a Raceland 2.5" exhaust cut out BNIB for 100 bucks, so that's going on, and I'm putting a 18" Vibrant resonator and a Vibrant muffler on it (like on my GT). 
But I'm also considering buying a Vibrant Racing muffler that has 1 inlet and 2 outlets (think v8 style muffler) and running 2 slash cut tip side pipes right out of the rockers, and shaving my rear bumpers exhaust cut out. I think that'd look pretty bad ass. 
But option 1 is probably the best option, because it's quieter.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

I'm probably just going to order a magnaflow replacement. Not really worried about the cats internal restriction just want to remove this last section of 1.75 tube

sent from mobile internet device.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

blackspyder said:


> I'm probably just going to order a magnaflow replacement. Not really worried about the cats internal restriction just want to remove this last section of 1.75 tube
> 
> sent from mobile internet device.


Why not just get a test pipe welded up? Do you need a CAT for any specific reason? Inspection? DD?
I've found that the Magnaflow universal CATs are crappy, and almost always throw a CEL. That's why I recommend TT or OEM VR6.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Yeah va state inspection requires one and I dd the car. lucky inspection is only visual so gutting a bad one is an option. Not that I would do that :sly:.

Wouldn't dream of using another universal fit, the one I looked at was a bolt on non high flow oe replacement. I'll look and see what other brands my local suppliers can get reasonably priced

sent from mobile internet device.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

blackspyder said:


> Yeah va state inspection requires one and I dd the car. lucky inspection is only visual so gutting a bad one is an option. Not that I would do that :sly:.
> 
> Wouldn't dream of using another universal fit, the one I looked at was a bolt on non high flow oe replacement. I'll look and see what other brands my local suppliers can get reasonably priced
> 
> sent from mobile internet device.


Ahhh. Yeah, I don't like inspection either. Everytime I'm driving the GT and I see a cop I'm freaking out.. I know they can hear it, with 3" exhaust, even shifting at 2k RPM is loud enough to make them perk an ear. The blower noise just exacerbates that.. and having a MBS system, I have no CAT. So if they look under my car, it's probably getting towed, and tow truck drivers aren't too good at making sure to not rip off your front bumper (ask me how I know..:banghead. Good thing with my B&G's I'm at 22" FTG, so they would have a hard time looking under there. :laugh:

I'm trying to convince myself not to get a 288* cam for my GTI.. I'm thinking the NEUSPEED 276* is my favorite camshaft ever for an NA 8v. But.. that power gain.. Ugh! But it really doesn't NEED more HP, as I've just discovered that my GTI pulls on VR6's on straights. I'm happy with that. My wife's cabby still smokes the GTI but that's to be expected, I guess.


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## rommeldawg (May 25, 2009)

i ordered a cat and downpipe from tt for a mk4 2.0l and it was magnaflow. it isnt listed like that on the site but the warrenty registration was from them. sound was good but i had a race file already on the ecm which deletes the second o2. we do not have emmissions testing in this part of virginia.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

rommeldawg said:


> i ordered a cat and downpipe from tt for a mk4 2.0l and it was magnaflow. it isnt listed like that on the site but the warrenty registration was from them. sound was good but i had a race file already on the ecm which deletes the second o2. we do not have emmissions testing in this part of virginia.


That's interesting, I didn't know that. I suppose Magnaflow is a big company, I guess I shouldn't be surprised. 

95' Golf that I bought is being sold. Unfortunately, it isn't logical for me to have another project right now. I am happy to say that my custom carbon splitter is finished for my Ibiza front lip on my GTI. So more air into the intake. :thumbup:
Looks like the demand for a MK4 intake swap kit is pretty high. I'm going to talk to my buddy to see how much it would cost to have 1 made, start to finish. They would look OEM. Not just electrical taped twist and taped wires, lol.


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## rommeldawg (May 25, 2009)

being that the intake and injection ports are the same between them i'll see how much trouble it would be to have the blanks cnc/machined. i have been wanting to get a tig welder for the shop. i had bought a lri for this mk4 turbo project from usrt but its just too f*cking ugly to me...lol... i want to make one for me atleast then maybe a small number to sell if others are interested. i had re-worked a factoiry intake just for asthetics well and of corse its port matched and smoothed inside but after i get this running i am sure i'll change it the next week....lol


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Hurt, I wonder how the dual outlet setup would sound? Probably badass with the 276* in there. 

Here's a question for you. I really love my Neuspeed exhaust, it sounds amazing paired with the cam, header, and test pipe :thumbup: however, there is still a part of me that is craving a loud exhaust. What I'm planning is very similar to your exhaust on the GTI. I'm going to have a local header/exhaust shop build me a 2.5" mandrel bent straight pipe that will mate up to my Neuspeed rear section. It will have a flange that will bolt to the short 2.4" section of pipe that runs to the muffler. That way if I get tired of the loud setup I can swap in the 2.4" resonated, mufflered original Neuspeed piece. Make sense? 
Anyways did you have any power loss problems going from 2.5" down to 2.4"? And secondly I know you said it was too loud, but is it a good sounding loud? Or just ugly and obnoxious loud? Thanks man :beer:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Dude, just go on Qtp's site ( quick time performance) and get one of their products. Install it anywhere in your exhaust.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MahTrek=] said:


> Hurt, I wonder how the dual outlet setup would sound? Probably badass with the 276* in there.
> 
> Here's a question for you. I really love my Neuspeed exhaust, it sounds amazing paired with the cam, header, and test pipe :thumbup: however, there is still a part of me that is craving a loud exhaust. What I'm planning is very similar to your exhaust on the GTI. I'm going to have a local header/exhaust shop build me a 2.5" mandrel bent straight pipe that will mate up to my Neuspeed rear section. It will have a flange that will bolt to the short 2.4" section of pipe that runs to the muffler. That way if I get tired of the loud setup I can swap in the 2.4" resonated, mufflered original Neuspeed piece. Make sense?
> Anyways did you have any power loss problems going from 2.5" down to 2.4"? And secondly I know you said it was too loud, but is it a good sounding loud? Or just ugly and obnoxious loud? Thanks man :beer:


 I'd really like to do the side exits. But If I do that, a 18" Vibrant resonator is going in as well, to quiet it down. I don't feel like getting pulled over for loud exhaust.. I think it'd look great with 2 slash cut rectangular tips, cut out of the sideskirt area. I'd add a nice flat black piece of metal surrounding the tips, so nothing gets discolored or melts. That's probably what I'm going to do.. The cutout will be right behind where the CAT should be, basically. 

That's a pretty good idea, but a exhaust cutout would be a better choice IMO. Cheaper, too. 

It's too loud period. It sounds okay, but it pops like crazy on downshifts and shoots flames. 
The size difference is marginal, I didn't really notice any power difference, to be honest.. I noticed a bit of a difference getting rid of 1 muffler and 1 resonator, but that's about all. It was probably just placebo, since you have to get a 10% increase in power to actually feel it. 

:beer:


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## dtHIGH (Jun 12, 2008)

I know i've never posted in this thread, but i've read and picked up so much helpful information in here. Thanks to everyone who has added worth while and solid information to this thread. This brings me to my question though. A lot of you have a ton of experience with the ABA's. I'm in the middle of a build and wonder if anyone has a guess of what kind of numbers i'm likely to put down. 

Build list: 

TT 276 cam & adjustable cam gear 
TT cam specific chip 
TT dual valve springs 
Mk4 light weight lifters 
Lightly port and polished intake and exhaust ports 
Mk4 intake set up 
Cylinder head decked .040 
Freshly gone over block 
Crank resurfaced, all new bottom end bearings and hardware 
New oil pump 
2.25" magnaflow cat back 
OBX stainless header 

Pretty sure that's all of it. Any guesses?


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## 2.slowduo (Sep 17, 2008)

Probably 130ish wheel hp 

I have. All you have but a 268 cam and no cam file and I'm at 120whp 127tq 

I'm waiting till I get a mk2 to swap this engine into to do 276 and cam file 

Fun car. Suprizes lots of idiots 

But not "fast" by any means


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

dtHIGH said:


> I know i've never posted in this thread, but i've read and picked up so much helpful information in here. Thanks to everyone who has added worth while and solid information to this thread. This brings me to my question though. A lot of you have a ton of experience with the ABA's. I'm in the middle of a build and wonder if anyone has a guess of what kind of numbers i'm likely to put down.
> 
> Build list:
> 
> ...


 Without a SRI, around 125-130whp would be my guess.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

No head work? 125whp max. Stuffing a big cam in there is nice and all, but without head work you're not gonna get much cfm.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> No head work? 125whp max. Stuffing a big cam in there is nice and all, but without head work you're not gonna get much cfm.


 I agree. Headwork on the crossflow ABA's = extremely important for good power #'s. I bet my GTI is around 140whp, and it would probably only be 120 without headwork. 
I found an amazing picture from SOWO, I feel like sharing. 
















Is that awesome or what? I'm not one for shaved bays, but the way this turbo is set up is pretty darn cool. Even on like 6-8 psi, you could keep up or beat VR6's!


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## dtHIGH (Jun 12, 2008)

Would you guys recommend I get larger valves as well? Also which size over standard would you recommend?


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

dtHIGH said:


> Would you guys recommend I get larger valves as well? Also which size over standard would you recommend?


 If you're going all out, 
Don't bother unless you get a SRI first. They provide much more power. You need a well flowing head and higher compression to hit the 130whp+ mark. 
I'd recommend first getting a SRI. Then getting a GOOD OBD1 or OBD2(with HD springs) cylinder head with a 3 angle valve job, gasket/port matching, decking 040" off the head, and getting 42/35 valves. With the head off, get a .90mm headgasket sold by BFI for an additional 0.5 compression, and a C2 tune. That should push you up to around 130-135whp with a 276.


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## wantacad (Apr 4, 2003)

Hurt said:


> I agree. Headwork on the crossflow ABA's = extremely important for good power #'s. I bet my GTI is around 140whp, and it would probably only be 120 without headwork.
> I found an amazing picture from SOWO, I feel like sharing.
> 
> 
> ...


 oooh purdy


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Keep the stock intake valves and +1mm on exhaust valves. Bowl work and bowl/seat blending is key. Get the head port flowed around the cam profile you will use. Get an SRI with the dimensions designed around your intake valve opening.


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## wantacad (Apr 4, 2003)

Since some of you know these intakes and heads like the back of your hand what are your thoughts on a VR6 TB on the MK4 mani?

I ask because this came up on my local forum. Curious if the OEM TB is the bottle neck in this or if said person is just wasting time.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

wantacad said:


> Since some of you know these intakes and heads like the back of your hand what are your thoughts on a VR6 TB on the MK4 mani?
> 
> I ask because this came up on my local forum. Curious if the OEM TB is the bottle neck in this or if said person is just wasting time.


 I think it's a waste of time. The factory TB isn't that bad if you port/deramp it.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

VR throttles only work on obdi. SO if you are obdi, then get an adapter plate made, flip the connector and enjoy.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

On an N/A motor with a factory manifold, waste of time IMHO. With F/I and/or a short runner, go for it!


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> VR throttles only work on obdi. SO if you are obdi, then get an adapter plate made, flip the connector and enjoy.


 BBM sells one, along with a mustang 3" TB adapter. 
I ran one on my MK2 coupe, but isn't the MK4 manifold swap a bit difficult on obd1 cars due to the ISV?


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## mk2 2.0 gti (May 26, 2006)

:thumbup::thumbup:

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Hurt said:


> BBM sells one, along with a mustang 3" TB adapter.
> I ran one on my MK2 coupe, but isn't the MK4 manifold swap a bit difficult on obd1 cars due to the ISV?


 Just loop it and keep it plugged in.


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## leon whalen (May 28, 2007)

i found one of the rare OEM 268 cams. can i use it in an obd2 head with stock valves ?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

.440" lift cam. Upgrade your springs


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

leon whalen said:


> i found one of the rare OEM 268 cams. can i use it in an obd2 head with stock valves ?


 Valves? They're fine. 
Valve SPRINGS? Nope! You need high lift springs to prevent coilbind and potential valve float, as 911_fan's tech articles have shown.


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## leon whalen (May 28, 2007)

thanks guys. i meant to type valve springs


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

So tempted to buy a Schrick 288* and swap it in to my GTI. I'm thinking with the close ratio gears of the 16v trans, I may be okay even in low RPM zones, like coming out of a turn without downshifting. The low end is pretty good for what it is, but it's a pretty big jump from my 276*.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

4000 = _whoooooosh_


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## rubrnekr (Nov 14, 2010)

Hey Hurt. Now that you just re-directed me to this thread (via my post about headers on the MKIII site), you've got me asking myself more questions. I obviously have a hell of a lot of reading to do, but my most immediate question is if I'm wasting my time with the TT266 cam and chip I have (still brand new, in the box) and should have gone with the 272? I already bought the TT heavy duty springs as well. 
Would I be wise to eat a few bucks loss in restock or selling these and getting the 272? How noticeable do you think the difference would be? 
This car is intended to be a daily driver and will never see a track or 1/4 mile strip. I'm a "spirited" driver though.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

rubrnekr said:


> Hey Hurt. Now that you just re-directed me to this thread (via my post about headers on the MKIII site), you've got me asking myself more questions. I obviously have a hell of a lot of reading to do, but my most immediate question is if I'm wasting my time with the TT266 cam and chip I have (still brand new, in the box) and should have gone with the 272? I already bought the TT heavy duty springs as well.
> Would I be wise to eat a few bucks loss in restock or selling these and getting the 272? How noticeable do you think the difference would be?
> This car is intended to be a daily driver and will never see a track or 1/4 mile strip. I'm a "spirited" driver though.


 Well, to be honest, you don't need HD springs on a OBD1 car (93-95) to run that cam. You can run a 276 on stock OBD1 valve springs, and not harm the engine, as long as you aren't on 7000 rpm for a loooong time, lol. 

The difference is HUGE! 
I'd try to see if TT would let you switch for a 276*.. You won't lose any low end hp or tq, as 911_fan's dyno has shown 270* autotech cam vs tt 276* = 8 more whp and 8 more wtq!, which is amazing, it's a huge difference that you will feel all through the revs. 

The 272* or 276* cams are excellent, I think the 276* is the best overall cam for the ABA engine. As 911_fan has shown, with an adjustable camgear set to +4*, you will gain around 5wtq without losing any top end HP. With a 272* or a 276*, you'll be able to make power past 6k RPM, and have a usable 7k redline. 


Another mod I'd recommend for a dd would be a MK4 intake manifold swap. It's very simple and will give you much better low end TQ and more HP across the rev range. 

To answer your header question: 

The AEG exhaust manifold flows ~12% better than the factory manifold. It's tubular. The factory downpipe hits the firewall/steeringrack if mated to the AEG manifold. The TT race downpipe is a nice piece of work, I had one on my built GTI 2.0 until I switched to a TT race header. 
The race only part pertains to emissions. Since it deletes the CAT converter, it's "race only". A TT 2.5" dual downpipe mates up fine, and fits fine, flows well, too! 

You don't need to read all 50+ pages. The front page is updated quite a bit with new, pertinent information as it comes out. :thumbup:


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## rubrnekr (Nov 14, 2010)

Alright, thanx for all of that. And dammit anyway...! 

My to-do list just got a little longer... lol 
*Call TT and upgrade to 276 cam and chip 
*Find MK4 donor car for intake and exhaust manifolds 

That also means I have to start doing homework on how to change my air induction also, right? I read somewhere, in the last few hours, that the air intake on the MK4 manifold is on the driver's side. Didn't get far beyond that though. I'm guessing there's probably a thread somewhere that explains/suggests how to deal with this? 

Not sure if this question is relevant or not, but what does this all do for the exhaust sound? I'm assuming it's going to be more lopey, due to the bigger cam, and I'm fine with that. Is volume effected though? I do not want a loud car! My other 2.0 Jetta had a basically stock engine, but I upgraded the exhaust to 2.25in cat, two resonators, and VR6 muffler. It had a nice mellow sound to it, and I really liked it. 

Need new tabs later this year, which means emissions testing, so I'll be keeping my cat and foregoing the race pipes. The Neuspeed exhaust system is looking tempting though.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

I have a Neuspeed Exhaust on my Jetta. I have an AEG intake mani, AutoTech 270*, Raceland header, and a 42DD 2.5" test pipe as well. It's not even close to being too loud, really quiet while cruising, zero drone, and a great sound under WOT :thumbup: I think it will suit your needs for a low key performance exhaust perfectly. 

Heres a short exhaust vid I made of my setup, it sounds much better in person, I promise :beer: 
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GHzAjmCAtIQ


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Starting to second guess building a stroker motor, thinking I may just build a turbo motor.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

blackspyder said:


> Starting to second guess building a stroker motor, thinking I may just build a turbo motor.
> 
> sent from mobile internet device.


 It's an easy way to make nice power and if you can use standalone engine management, you can even keep the fuel economy.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

rubrnekr said:


> Alright, thanx for all of that. And dammit anyway...!
> 
> My to-do list just got a little longer... lol
> *Call TT and upgrade to 276 cam and chip
> ...


 It does put the throttle body on the driver side, which calls for a custom intake set up. You can use a cone filter, or even make a MK4 airbox if you put your battery in the trunk. Here's a DIY, it's very basic and easily done.: 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...anifold-on-MKIII-2.0L-ABA-OBDII&highlight=DIY 
It changes the exhaust note, but it's not that much louder with a cam. It'll be a moderate sound level with just 2.25" pipe with 1 muffler. The best sounding/quietest exhausts made (IMHO) for the 2.0 is the NEUSPEED system, which is 2.4", has 2 mufflers and 1 resonator. I have had multiple NEUSPEED systems. They're great. Another system that isn't quiet would be the TT dual borla 2.5", or the dual resonator 2.25" system if you're willing to sacrifice high end HP.


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## rubrnekr (Nov 14, 2010)

Thanx for the input. I'm making the leap and deciding that I'm done debating so damn much. The Neuspeed system costs more than I originally wanted to spend, but it also sounds like it's exactly what I'm wishing and hoping for. The latter wins... I just worked 6 hours on my "day off", so I'll chalk that up as some extra funds to pay for the exhaust!  :beer: 

Thanx for the link Hurt. I'll check it out in a bit, after I get some food and beer in me...!


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Prof315 said:


> It's an easy way to make nice power and if you can use standalone engine management, you can even keep the fuel economy.


 I'm considering having MS put into my GTI to see what power the motor can really make. :thumbup:


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## wantacad (Apr 4, 2003)

Hurt said:


> I'm considering having MS put into my GTI to see what power the motor can really make. :thumbup:


 It's addicting. I'll tell you that.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

wantacad said:


> It's addicting. I'll tell you that.


 I'm really considering it. I've seen some very very impressive numbers with stock engines on MS.. over 120whp with a stock camshaft.. That's crazy, 20whp more than you'd make with factory managment. But if I had my way, I would swap a Honda B18c5 in my GTI. So.. I'm quite outlandish.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> I'm really considering it. I've seen some very very impressive numbers with stock engines on MS.. over 120whp with a stock camshaft.. That's crazy, 20whp more than you'd make with factory managment. But if I had my way, I would swap a Honda B18c5 in my GTI. So.. I'm quite outlandish.


 :thumbup::thumbup:


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

rubrnekr said:


> Alright, thanx for all of that. And dammit anyway...!
> 
> My to-do list just got a little longer... lol
> *Call TT and upgrade to 276 cam and chip
> ...


the AEG IM is proven, but honestly as far as the exhaust side- an obx or raceland header isn't very expensive, and eventhough its been stated header doesnt really do that much hp wise on a stock head, its at least worth it for the weight reduction...

I had only put an OBX header on mine because my stock exh. mani. was done for.... and I didn't notice much difference but its held up fine for over 2 years now and is about 12 pounds lighter than the stock mani. iirc. I also have a lightweight battery, and if I had the money some lightweight wheels would be on my list too....  

#WeightIsTheEnemy


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Im sorry...I think my Google skills must be lacking today...but would you mind linking me to where you read that a 4-2-1 header doesn't do anything on a stock head. Did they change principles of exhaust tuning and forget to send me a memo?

Thx


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## mk2 2.0 gti (May 26, 2006)

Aeg in my 92gti also has aeg exhaust mani and everything lined up to my tt-cat back



















Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Im sorry...I think my Google skills must be lacking today...but would you mind linking me to where you read that a 4-2-1 header doesn't do anything on a stock head. Did they change principles of exhaust tuning and forget to send me a memo?
> 
> Thx


All I meant was I've never seen dynos really showing a big difference. I mean one can assume on a stock head 3-5 whp... But every little bit helps I guess. :heart:


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

And what do you think a chip or a cat-back nets?

Yup...3-5whp.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> And what do you think a chip or a cat-back nets?
> 
> Yup...3-5whp.


TT's chip has proven 7whp gains, and I'd imagine C2's even more HP, and quite a bit more TQ.
I can't imagine that a stock 8v would gain 5whp from just a header.

Anywho, while I was searching along for a new intake for my wife's cabby, I decided for another SR stage 3 manifold, since I have one on my GT and it seems to flow pretty well. But one thing I noticed from looking at Scientific Rabbit's website is that they say the MK4 manifold they sell gives 10whp at the peak over the stock manifold, and 20whp down low.. but according to their dyno charts, the ported manifold only gives ~5whp at the peak over the stock manifold, but the huge gains downlow are indeed there.


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## wantacad (Apr 4, 2003)

Hurt said:


> TT's chip has proven 7whp gains, and I'd imagine C2's even more HP, and quite a bit more TQ.
> I can't imagine that a stock 8v would gain 5whp from just a header.
> 
> Anywho, while I was searching along for a new intake for my wife's cabby, I decided for another SR stage 3 manifold, since I have one on my GT and it seems to flow pretty well. But one thing I noticed from looking at Scientific Rabbit's website is that they say the MK4 manifold they sell gives 10whp at the peak over the stock manifold, and 20whp down low.. but according to their dyno charts, the ported manifold only gives ~5whp at the peak over the stock manifold, but the huge gains downlow are indeed there.


The down low numbers are awesome.  Didn't T just post a link to an old thread recently about ny-farm talking about how most of the gains he gets from the mk4 mani is the work he does to the lower section.


*edit* n/m found it

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4687491


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

I have a question about porting the AEG mani. Is there a specific way it needs to be done, like porting a head? Or are people just opening up the runner diameters throughout the lower/upper pieces? Until I can drop the paper on a SRI this might be a fun project to net a few more ponies on the cheap :thumbup:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Its difficult to remove material and be able to accurately discern if all 4 match. Port flowing is the only way to know. But for the amature, cleaning uo the surface of the interior and, IMHO, the most important part; making the short turn radius of the lower manifold less abrupt. Air hates to take sharp corners, so any material you can remove to improve the flow velocity around the turn is always good.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

IMO, leave it to the professionals, it's nearly impossible to make all the runners equal without the proper machines/tools.. But headwork and intake manifold porting (or just a well flowing manifold swap) is extremely important for big gains in an ABA. I doubt you'd make more than 120whp with a stock head/manifold even with a 276*.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I'm having issues with my GT's coolant temp on these hot days.. My coolant temp gauge got to the 3/4 mark on my cluster while idling during some city driving. 
The only thing I haven't upgraded on my GT is the radiator and the fan.. I have a low temp NEUSPEED fan switch, and samco hoses, but that's it. 

Does anyone have any idea where to find a performance radiator for a 8v? I can't find anything. I didn't have these problems with my old 160whp coupe, so I'm making an educated guess that it's from the BBM kit. It's bugging me.. I enjoy driving the GT on nice days with the windows down and the sunroof open. I feel the MK3 has a lot more road feel and it's funner to drive than the MK6 I'm used to dailying (You don't say?!).

Also picked up a 97 Memory Red Golf for a daily for 500 dollars. It is just a roller, though. It's just going to be a bolt on 2.0, with OEM+ looks. No major mods to it.. I just want a mk3 daily driver again. I don't dd the GT too much, because it's too purdy and I don't want to get any dings or scratches on it. Kinda sucks I'm afraid to drive my favorite car.. And I want to keep miles off of my GLI.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Sounds like a fan issue more than a radiator issue, ie the fans aren't pulling enough air through. Corvette style high flow dual fans may fit the radiator. Other than that, custom fitting a generic rad. is the only option I know

sent from mobile internet device.


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## mk2 2.0 gti (May 26, 2006)

Check this out I was going to get this rad for my gti (aba swap) 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1409799520...Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Colm, do you hold proper pressure? Does you coolant bulb boil? If there is a pressure leak, it will over heat. Proper pressure allows the boiling point to be raised, and if, say, your coolant bulb cap is faulty, you will overheat.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I'm thinking maybe it could be the fan. If I can find a high performance dual fan set up, I'll buy one. 

I haven't gotten a chance to pressure test it yet, but when I was driving it today the temp didn't get past ~200*, but I wasn't idling in traffic for that long today.. I guess if I take into consideration that the front end isn't as open as it used to be because of my front mount covering the radiator in the bottom opening of the bumper, the amount of air-flow getting to the radiator is slim.. But I don't think I've changed my coolant in a while. I think the last time I did it was when I installed the BBM kit. I also haven't changed the radiator before, I'm pretty sure it's OEM. I'm going to give it a pressure test/flush/refill as soon as I can. It's really odd, because my oil temp and pressure are fine.

Edit: Maybe it's a faulty temp gauge due to my Vento GT cluster (ABF)? I know with standard bubble clusters, the temp gauges reads higher than it should.. I'm going to swap my GTI's ABF cluster into the GT and see if that makes a difference, and if that doesn't, I'll swap in a standard OBD2 8v cluster and see what happens. :thumbup:


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Howdy Colm :wave:

Figure out your temp problems so you can focus on standalone and nitrous!


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MahTrek=] said:


> Howdy Colm :wave:
> 
> Figure out your temp problems so you can focus on standalone and nitrous!


I found out my radiator was indeed clogged pretty bad.. Also, the cap for my coolant bubble wasn't sealing properly, air was escaping. New radiator and a flush/refill kit of proper coolant are on their way. I'm hoping that it will settle back down. 

Nitrous is already finished although I'm running into a lean condition when the 2nd jet engages, which needs to be sorted out. Standalone is possibly next. 
I'd really like to find a nice tire that isn't an R compound that I can daily, because I can't stand driving on skinny tires (205/45/16 Falken) and just spinning under any more than half throttle acceleration. I use 245's on my track wheels.. And I'm really missing that traction! 
I also realized over the past couple days of actually driving means I'm getting decent gas mileage. Around 25mpg combined, not so bad for 275+whp. :thumbup:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Last minute pressure leak kept me from driving down to Waterfest in '08. That was THE year my motor was in its prime. I missed a LOT of opportunities that weekend because of that stupid ****ing leak.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Last minute pressure leak kept me from driving down to Waterfest in '08. That was THE year my motor was in its prime. I missed a LOT of opportunities that weekend because of that stupid ****ing leak.


 It's always the little things. But I should have expected it, I suppose, since the GT's radiator was OEM and kinda I skimped on the water-cooling side of the build staying OEM.

I just wish I could find a reputable company that sells high performance radiators and a high performance fan set up that's proven to work on the 2.0. 

I'm thinking it'll go back to normal once I get the new radiator in.. My wife's cabby doesn't overheat at all, her temp needle stays at 195*, even in this weather. Her car doesn't even have a low temp fan switch (yet, it's on it's way from NEUSPEED). But her car also doesn't rev as high as mine (6800 RPM redline/shift point vs ~7700 RPM shift point). She isn't running as much boost, either.. Bah.. I'm over thinking things.. 

PS:
I'm still looking for a clean car for you, T, I haven't forgotten! It's just been a PITA lately to get free time to go to the Auctions. But I have my friend calling me if any MK3's come up.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Thank goodness for overnight air shipping! New OEM radiator is in the GT, along with good ol' G12.. And I got an OEM coolant bubble cap. Pressure tested 100% fine.. Took it out for a few drives. In bumper to bumper traffic, the temp needle stayed where it should, right in the center, at 195*. After a few minutes of spirited highway driving pulls for around 5 or 6 miles, the temp needle was fine! So happy to have the GT's power back. It's so fun to just go all out. I wish I had better tires though!

I also got a new NEUSPEED fan switch for my wife's cabby, which is being put in tomorrow as a precaution.
Here's a question for the forum:

I also got some of today to start working on the Memory Red Golf I picked up. Since it has no engine or transmission, I decided on a MPG queen dd with OEM+ looks, and I have a list of parts to order tomorrow.. I've decided on the basics:
OBD1 2.0 block, and ported obd1 head, decked .040", 4 angle valve job, +0.5mm exhaust valves (bought the head never used for 150 bucks) :thumbup:
ATA 02A with a TDI 5th and a VR6 F/D for excellent MPG's
O2J shiftbox with NEUSPEED short shifter
Heated red DE seats
power everything
5 lug 4 wheel disc swap
My USRT SRI
My NEUSPEED 268* or SCHRICK 272* cam, C2 chip, NEUSPEED exhaust, Raceland header, highflow CAT. 
Koni Yellows and FK 60/40 springs with FK tophats, for a 75/55mm drop and very comfortable ride, with new autotech swaybars (from their last 30% off deal).
OEM+ looking wheels (Either 15" Speedlines or 15" 94/95 GLX BBS on 205/50/15). 
But there's a lot of room for changing things up, like what cam, what chip, yadyadyadya.

What do you guys think? I think it sounds pretty good for a daily. Anyone have suggestions/comments?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

That doesnt sound like mpg queen to me. You want 480 miles out of 13.5 gallons? STOCK EVERYTHING on 87 octane.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> That doesnt sound like mpg queen to me. You want 480 miles out of 13.5 gallons? STOCK EVERYTHING on 87 octane.


I couldn't stand driving a stock 8v.. 

I want a nice driving daily, something comparable in ride to my GT, something decently quick for its size, and good MPG's. I'm thinking the trans I'm having built will be pretty amazing for cruising MPGs, I won't ever need to shift out of 3rd cruising in the city, and on the highway? How about just 2.5k RPM at 75? and 3.5k RPM at 100+ mph? 

One mod I think is a must for a 8v if I were to daily a stock one would be my SRI. That made such a big difference on the peak power and flattened the powerband out so nicely on my old 94' GL with stock everything.. It made it want to rev to over 6200. The intake is a big bottleneck on the stock engines as you know. 

I'm thinking I can see well over 30mpg city if I just do basic bolt ons, with that transmission. I have my Schrick 272* from a local that I'll probably run in it, or a 268*.. I think I have a autotech 270* somewhere, but I really prefer something bigger than 270*. I'm just trying to build myself a nice daily, without having to worry about the mileage, coolant and oil temps, the boost levels, the paint getting chipped/scratched, dents, being too low for the majority of the roads to drive comfortably, not having a CAT, being ticketed for, but not limited to: having a loud exhaust system (GT's is 3"), the S/C whine, the GTI's common exhaust backfires while letting off the throttle in gear, or whilst engine-braking, my GT's absurd wheel spin that is oftentimes unintentional (crap tires, need wider than 225, but hard to find), etc, etc. the typical stuff.. :banghead:


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## rubrnekr (Nov 14, 2010)

Hurt said:


> ...etc, etc. the typical stuff.. :banghead:


Omg, you're ridiculous. Most of the rest of us mere mortals wish that we could have such "typical" problems! lol 

The engine/tranny sound pretty awesome. But, of course, I'm obviously the novice who's been asking YOU questions! 

And, btw, I did in fact take the plunge on the Neuspeed exhaust. UPS was supposed to deliver it Wednesday but screwed it up. I'm about to walk out the door right now to go down there and just pick it up myself. Can't wait to see it.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

rubrnekr said:


> Omg, you're ridiculous. Most of the rest of us mere mortals wish that we could have such "typical" problems! lol
> 
> The engine/tranny sound pretty awesome. But, of course, I'm obviously the novice who's been asking YOU questions!
> 
> And, btw, I did in fact take the plunge on the Neuspeed exhaust. UPS was supposed to deliver it Wednesday but screwed it up. I'm about to walk out the door right now to go down there and just pick it up myself. Can't wait to see it.


Thanks for the kind words. :thumbup: :beer:
The Neuspeed system sounds great, I've thoroughly enjoyed mine over the years, and that is what's going on my Golf when I get to that step.
Only problem with the Neuspeed Golf exhaust is that they have that at regular price, $799.99. So, I'm going to do what I've done in the past - buy the Jetta system, have the tailpipes cut and rewelded. That saves $200 bucks. Well, like $175 if you include the cost of welding it back together. umpkin:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

AUTOTECH is having a 30% off sale until July 8th!
Great opportunity to stock up on parts, guys.
SS 2.5" exhaust, only $350!
260/256 and 270 cams? $111!
:thumbup:


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> AUTOTECH is having a 30% off sale until July 8th!
> Great opportunity to stock up on parts, guys.
> SS 2.5" exhaust, only $350!
> 260/256 and 270 cams? $111!
> :thumbup:


270 cam :thumbup:

260/256 :thumbdown:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> 270 cam :thumbup:
> 
> 260/256 :thumbdown:


The 260/256 isn't that bad for low boost applications like a stock G60 or a NEUSPEED S/C 8v with the 2.8" pulley. Even Dan J. Reed says he liked his 260/256 in his Golf 2dr. 

I don't really care for the 270, not enough power compared to the 272 or 276 for me. 

I have been taking advantage of the Autotech sale. The entire Clubsport kit with hollow 25mm front and 28mm rear swaybars, clubsport shocks and lowering springs, strut tower brace, lower tie bar, rear tie bar, poly bushings and swaybar endlinks, for just a little over $800? Yes, please. I'll be installing it on my new dd Golf with my Koni Yellows, and H&R 60/40 springs. Score. Transmission should be done tomorrow, I got the engine on the stand, decided on my Neuspeed 268*. It's going to be a fun dd.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Autotech 270 vs tt 276? Which one is the better bang for the buck with the at being on sale currently?

I still haven't decided between turbo or stroker yet. Thinking about combining and having the pistons trimmed to drop the compression ratio.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

blackspyder said:


> Autotech 270 vs tt 276? Which one is the better bang for the buck with the at being on sale currently?


If you're staying N/A? The 276*. It's just 180 on WRD, and has been proven (by 911_fan) to give 8whp and 8wtq more than a 270* on a modified 8v.. So that's a huge gain and a huge difference, especially for only 70 bucks more.
If you're going boosted, an Autotech 270* is a pretty good cam for boost, but a TT 276 114* LCA cam is much better, I run one in my GT and it's very very good at pulling from 2000 RPM to well over 7000RPM.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

I may have to give the Autotech 2.5" a try for only $350! That's a steal!


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## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

Hurt said:


> I have been taking advantage of the Autotech sale. The entire Clubsport kit with hollow 25mm front and 28mm rear swaybars, clubsport shocks and lowering springs, strut tower brace, lower tie bar, rear tie bar, poly bushings and swaybar endlinks, for just a little over $800? Yes, please. I'll be installing it on my new dd Golf with my Koni Yellows, and H&R 60/40 springs. Score. Transmission should be done tomorrow, I got the engine on the stand, decided on my Neuspeed 268*. It's going to be a fun dd.



Sounds like you have a nice little up and coming DD Colm.... I went ahead and picked up the 28mm rear swaybar for now and maybe a couple other items later that I haven't made up my mind on yet.... 

And I'll be chatting with you soon, once I return from vacation


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Used to have such fun with Neuspeeds rear sway on full tight. Would go around on ramps with the outside wheel in the air, tap the brake to stop the wheel from spinning, and freak the people behind me out, 

Ah, memories...


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Inside wheel?


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Pretty sure that's what he meant.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

My go-to beer during 93* weekend days is Stella Artois. Cant **** with 600 years if brewing experience. I keep the brewery in bidnuss. 

Unfortunately, it often ply's with my typing abilities and "duh" moments occur. My last response is an example of such "duh" moments. 

Yes, inside rear wheel is what I meant. .


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

:laugh::thumbup:

Well put :beer: 

I can't wait until I can build my suspension, new coilovers, sway bars, strut tower, subframe brace, Neuspeed rear strut tower brace, new bushings all around, etc. having a decent handling mark 3 will be a first for me. I've finally grown out of only caring about low and all that bull****. I know 205/40's on an 8" will be pushing it but with decent tires they should be alright. 

I'm glad that there are a group of individuals who still believe in Volkswagen Motorsport. Cheers fellas


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## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

MahTrek=] said:


> :laugh::thumbup:
> 
> Well put :beer:
> 
> ...


Where are you getting your Neuspeed Parts from? I looked at their site while I was comparing with the EuroSport pieces and they don't even list them any longer for the MK3


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MahTrek=] said:


> I may have to give the Autotech 2.5" a try for only $350! That's a steal!


 Not worth it, you just got a NEUSPEED system! The power gain would be probably like 1hp if that on the high end. Plus NEUSPEED sounds better, IMO.



911_fan said:


> Used to have such fun with Neuspeeds rear sway on full tight. Would go around on ramps with the outside wheel in the air, tap the brake to stop the wheel from spinning, and freak the people behind me out,
> 
> Ah, memories...


:beer:
Wonderfully fun taking ramps at 80+MPH in the GTI!



MahTrek=] said:


> :laugh::thumbup:
> 
> Well put :beer:
> 
> ...


205/45's on a 8" looks good if you aren't that slammed. That's what I have on my GT for daily driving duties, and I'm at 22.5" FTG front, 23" rear. I raise it to 23/23.5 when I'm using my track tires, 245's. Just the perfect amount of wheel gap. 
I don't like the tire tucking look that much, sure it looks good, but it's not practical alot of the time. When I lived in my house in Boston, DDing my 94' GL with H&R Ultra low stage II's at 21" FTG was like.. a hazardous adventure to say the least.




99MK3VDUB said:


> Sounds like you have a nice little up and coming DD Colm.... I went ahead and picked up the 28mm rear swaybar for now and maybe a couple other items later that I haven't made up my mind on yet....
> 
> And I'll be chatting with you soon, once I return from vacation


They make great products, it's great fun. 
No problem at all, let me know!
My dd should be fun, I got the engine assembled today, the wiring harness installed on it, and I'm waiting for my suspension parts to come in the mail, hopefully by Tuesday... and the transmission is going on tomorrow, when I should be able to drop the drivetrain into the car and drive it around!
The current mod is:
OBD1 ABA, Running OBD2 management 
Ported OBD1 cylinderhead, 4 angle valve job 040" taken off, .5mm sized exhaust valves, HD springs.
Neuspeed 268* 113* LCA cam
C2 chip
Neuspeed exhaust with tt high-flow catalytic converter (Will be long term DD)
My spare SRI with Neuspeed top airbox for OEM+ points
G60 valve cover
Raceland Header
Neuspeed cam gear
Neuspeed plug wires

Hoping for over 120whp. TT got 120whp with very similar mods, but their head was stock, no higher compression, no SRI. 

Transmission:
02A ATA, VR6 3.39 F/D, .71 5th gear, LSD.. Long gears for better MPG's. Acceleration won't be that bad considering the low TQ peak of the ABA.

If you'd like to know more about the build, PM me, as I don't want to clog up the thread with personal stuff. 

:thumbup:


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

99MK3VDUB said:


> Where are you getting your Neuspeed Parts from? I looked at their site while I was comparing with the EuroSport pieces and they don't even list them any longer for the MK3


Unfortunately I don't have the dough to drop a big ass order on a ****load of suspension goodies. I will be slowly acquiring these parts as I go. That was more of a wish list than anything. :beer:

And Colm, if I was going with 16"x8"s I would be fine with 205/45s. But I will be on 17"x8" tarmacs :thumbup: so I'm set on 205/40's. You're right about the exhaust too, I wouldn't trade my Neuspeed setup for an AutoTech one. With the Raceland header, 42DD 2.5" test pipe, and Neuspeed 2.4" exhaust (plus aeg mani/AT 270*) my 2.0 sounds great. Just got a little excited. I love exhausts, they're a lot of fun to play around/experiment with...no ****.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Finally got the Memory Red's engine and trans bolted up and the car is running.. right in time to go back to work. Wonderful! 

17x8's and 205/40's look good, but I have 245/35/17's on my old Neuspeed RS-05's and I love the look, nice and meaty. Very sticky, too. :thumbup:


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## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

Hurt said:


> They make great products, it's great fun.
> No problem at all, let me know!
> My dd should be fun, I got the engine assembled today, the wiring harness installed on it, and I'm waiting for my suspension parts to come in the mail, hopefully by Tuesday... and the transmission is going on tomorrow, when I should be able to drop the drivetrain into the car and drive it around!
> The current mod is:
> ...


Now that sounds like a very solid "DD".... I would think with all that you could get a bit more than just over 120whp...

Where did you source the VR6 3.39 F/D and .71 5th gear? I can only find a whole trans for around $300 which would have to be split just so I can get the 3.39 f/d out of and the .71 5th only found one through Boraparts.com for roughly $350.. I checked the tdi forums and nothing..  Already received new bearings, seals, synchros and speedo gear along with the Wavetrac and ARP bolt kit..
These are the only 2 items left that are needed to complete the ATA build

You wouldn't happen to know where I could find an SRI would you, or maybe have another "spare" laying around I could purchase???


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

99MK3VDUB said:


> Now that sounds like a very solid "DD".... I would think with all that you could get a bit more than just over 120whp...
> 
> Where did you source the VR6 3.39 F/D and .71 5th gear? I can only find a whole trans for around $300 which would have to be split just so I can get the 3.39 f/d out of and the .71 5th only found one through Boraparts.com for roughly $350.. I checked the tdi forums and nothing..  Already received new bearings, seals, synchros and speedo gear along with the Wavetrac and ARP bolt kit..
> These are the only 2 items left that are needed to complete the ATA build
> ...


I got the F/D from an old MK3 VR6 transmission I had laying around, the bellhousing was cracked so I got it for cheap, and I got the TDI 5th from parting out a totaled 97 Passat TDI a while back. Sold the engine for someone's MK1 1.9 TDI swap, 200whp and 350wtq 
It's kind of hard to find brand new parts for the transmissions.

You can check some vendors, USRT stopped making them I believe. My 2 SRI's are in duty right now, on the GTI and on the Golf. If you can't find one, a good substitute would be a Scientific rabbit Stage III manifold, that's what I have on my GT and my wife's Cabby. 

120whp is a safe estimate, probably 125 max with the small cam. It runs good, but I didn't want to take a chance driving it to Maine for work, had to take my GLI. Definitely looking forward to getting home so I can put the suspension on it and get the rest buttoned up. :thumbup:


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## TravisTheD (Apr 15, 2011)

hay hurt did u say that the autotech 270* cam is a good cam for an ABA-T set up ...in time i am going to turbo my ABA but before i have the money for the turbo and stuff i still want to cam, chip and do intake and exhaust work to it


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## The Rice Cooker (Jan 13, 2004)

mk3jetta-man said:


> hay hurt did u say that the autotech 270* cam is a good cam for an ABA-T set up ...in time i am going to turbo my ABA but before i have the money for the turbo and stuff i still want to cam, chip and do intake and exhaust work to it


I assume you want to know if this AT270 is a good cam for a naturally aspirated setups as well as boosted applications (you didn't really ask a question). I believe this is my 7th or 8th year with that cam. It was great before the turbo since it really wakes the car up in the higher RPMs, and with the turbo I haven't had any issue, plus it was one less thing to buy after the switch to FI. I am hearing great things about this new 276 cam from TT, but the cam you mentioned was the 270. This has been my experience with the product and I hope this helps you in some way.


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## TravisTheD (Apr 15, 2011)

The Rice Cooker said:


> I assume you want to know if this AT270 is a good cam for a naturally aspirated setups as well as boosted applications (you didn't really ask a question). I believe this is my 7th or 8th year with that cam. It was great before the turbo since it really wakes the car up in the higher RPMs, and with the turbo I haven't had any issue, plus it was one less thing to buy after the switch to FI. I am hearing great things about this new 276 cam from TT, but the cam you mentioned was the 270. This has been my experience with the product and I hope this helps you in some way.


that does help me and i thank you for your input:thumbup::thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

mk3jetta-man said:


> hay hurt did u say that the autotech 270* cam is a good cam for an ABA-T set up ...in time i am going to turbo my ABA but before i have the money for the turbo and stuff i still want to cam, chip and do intake and exhaust work to it


It's a good cam for mild boost applications, yes. But the TT 276* 114*LCA cam blows it away. You could run a 276* 114* LCA cam NA for a while without any trouble, it would be much stronger than the Autotech 270*. The idle is choppy, but setting your idle to over 1000 RPM (most cam file chips are set to 1050 anyway) will solve that problem.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

I wonder how the 276* wlc cam would compare to a normal 276* (NA) in terms of powerband/whp/wtq/etc.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MahTrek=] said:


> I wonder how the 276* wlc cam would compare to a normal 276* (NA) in terms of powerband/whp/wtq/etc.


More low end, choppier idle. 
I think I've seen such good results with my 276 v2 because my GT is supercharged, which raises the power-peak and flattens it out to begin with, even the stage I kit raises the power peak from 5400 to 6200. I keep pulling past 7500 RPM, but I know that shifting past 7500 isn't going to get me anywhere faster than shifting at 7k. The low end TQ is still there down low.


----------



## TravisTheD (Apr 15, 2011)

Hurt said:


> It's a good cam for mild boost applications, yes. But the TT 276* 114*LCA cam blows it away. You could run a 276* 114* LCA cam NA for a while without any trouble, it would be much stronger than the Autotech 270*. The idle is choppy, but setting your idle to over 1000 RPM (most cam file chips are set to 1050 anyway) will solve that problem.


ok but would i have to run the hd springs still with the 276*


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

mk3jetta-man said:


> ok but would i have to run the hd springs still with the 276*


Of course! You need to run HD springs (if you have an OBD2 head) if you have a cam with any more lift than .432". The TT 276 is well over the threshold at .449" of lift.


----------



## TravisTheD (Apr 15, 2011)

Hurt said:


> Of course! You need to run HD springs (if you have an OBD2 head) if you have a cam with any more lift than .432". The TT 276 is well over the threshold at .449" of lift.


ok just checking lol thank you ..i think for now im gong to keep with the 270* i want and keep it NA for awhile then when i have the money to do a turbo jump to the 276*...thanks for the help


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Hey Travis, what transmission were you running with your built aba? CHE? On the video of you getting on the freeway the car looks quick but it seems as if your gears were a little long. Just curious.


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Yep, CHE. Would have been an entirely different beast with a 2Y. Would have been way quicker.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Would have been an entirely different beast with a 2Y. Would have been way quicker.


For sure! 
The stock MK3 020's have terrible gearing, with the big drop from 1-2 and 2-3..
My GTI never drops below 5,000 RPM on any gear except for on the 1-2 shift, if I shift slow, I fall to ~4800. 
If I shift at ~7400 and slam the gears to get the chirps, which don't let the revs drop so much, I never drop below 5,000. I always thought the 020 9A 1-4 gearset with a CHE .80 5th is definitely the best for acceleration while retaining decent drivability.
But Vdub2625 informed me that an 02A with a VR6 1-4 with a TDI 5th is nearly as good, and I researched it.. the RPM drops don't differ as much as 100 RPM per gear, and the comparable gear speeds are around 15-20% longer with the 02A!

It's a shame I couldn't make any Auto X events this weekend because of work, but I am going to be doing a slight revamp on the GTI.. Bigger exhaust (70mm), bigger cam (288*), a higher F/D gear (3.94 vs 3.67), and even more weight reduction..

I just realized that I've been doing horrid math when it comes to MPG.. Wrong tank size.. :facepalm: I figured out that my GT gets 25 MPG combined of 65% city, 35% highway. My GTI gets around 24, but I don't drive it much around town.. Neighbors don't appreciate loud cars in my hoity-toity neighborhood.. I'm not sure what my 97' gets yet, I've only driven 1/2 a tank on crappy 87 octane since I've got the engine and trans done, and the trip meter is at 239.9.. Mostly on the highway, since 3k rpm = 90 mph! So.. around 33 with crappy gas? So ~35 with 93, if I'm lucky? That's awesome, around the same as my GLI gets (25 city 30 highway is the norm)

Speaking of loud exhaust, my GT's 3" system is loud, but not that loud. But recently I was told by someone locally with a Neuspeed s/c'd ABA rabbit that 3" is too big for an 8v unless it's got a turbo, and he uses 2.5". He's an engineer, so I think he's credible. 
Is there anyone that's dealt with this type of FI that cam chime in? If I can make more power with a 2.5" system, than hell, I'll take an Autotech kit off my shelf and put it on (not really. I only use Vibrant mufflers now!).


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

911_fan said:


> Yep, CHE. Would have been an entirely different beast with a 2Y. Would have been way quicker.


Right on :thumbup:

If I stay NA I'm definitely going 4K with a CHE 5th(Bolt kit, diff, beefy clutch, etc.). Some people think it will be too extreme but I guess I want to learn the hard way. Anyways that car had a badass setup, you should build another naturally aspirated 8 valve


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

3" seems a little big for exhaust. Try getting a 3 to 2.5 step down and then step it back up and make a few test runs and see if it improves the power.

3 seems big even for a turbo car. I believe you want a little bit of back pressure to help spin the turbine.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MahTrek=] said:


> Right on :thumbup:
> 
> If I stay NA I'm definitely going 4K with a CHE 5th(Bolt kit, diff, beefy clutch, etc.). Some people think it will be too extreme but I guess I want to learn the hard way.)


It's not that extreme if you have a cam that can actually rev to a usable 7k redline, like a 276*.
At 7000 RPM, your gear speeds would be, only dropping below 5k for 1-2, and for a brief second from 2-3.
36
58
85
109
153

I found an excellent calculator for gearspeed/trans combos/etc, located teammfactory.com, that I figured I'd share. It's very in depth. Here's an example of my GTI's vs my GT's transmission ratios/gearspeeds/RPM per gear (Both on street tires): 










I think it's pretty awesome. It's a great tool to use when building up a transmission, my Golf's was built using this calculator. :thumbup:
Definitely decided on going with a 288* in the GTI. So to take advantage of more air, I'm finally installing my exhaust cut out instead of having an entirely new system made.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

3 inch is definitely way too big for an NA 2.0 motor. (2.5 is the biggest and is what I ran.) Too much diameter and reduces escape velocity by there being less pressure. (notice I did _not_ say back pressure)

For a VR, its fine and actually makes more power than a 2.5 inch exhaust.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

911_fan said:


> 3 inch is definitely way too big for an NA 2.0 motor. (2.5 is the biggest and is what I ran.) Too much diameter and reduces escape velocity by there being less pressure. (notice I did _not_ say back pressure)
> 
> For a VR, its fine and actually makes more power than a 2.5 inch exhaust.


I mean for my GT. 3" MBS system is what I have on it right now, with a Vibrant resonator and muffler. It is pulling in a lot of air at ~22PSI/1.5bar so I thought I'd go with 3" when I first set the car up. But if there's more power to be had, and I can get an even quieter exhaust, I'd be happy to buy another MBS 2.5" system, use a spare Autotech system, or buy a new NEUSPEED system, since I like their sound the best.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

blackspyder said:


> 3" seems a little big for exhaust. Try getting a 3 to 2.5 step down and then step it back up and make a few test runs and see if it improves the power.
> 
> 3 seems big even for a turbo car. I believe you want a little bit of back pressure to help spin the turbine.
> 
> sent from mobile internet device.


3" is too big for an N/A 4 cylinder but not for a turbo. Turbo exhaust is the one time where bigger truly is better. Back pressure slows the turbine down.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Makes sense. I wonder why in the diesel world we shrink the exhaust about a half inch right after the turbo only to expand it again within a few inches on some applications.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Prof315 said:


> 3" is too big for an N/A 4 cylinder but not for a turbo.


That's not always true. The K20A and K20Z engines do better with 3" exhaust than with 2.5" with bolt ons. 

I'm just going to stick with 3" on my GT, I don't want to go through having a new exhaust welded up for minimal power gains.


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Question guys,
I've listed my mods here a few times but in case it has been missed;

'Short ram' intake
AEG intake manifold 
Autotech 270* 
AEG lifters
Dual valve springs
Raceland 4-2-1 header
42DD 2.5" test pipe
Neuspeed 2.4" Exhaust
TT (NON-cam profile) software. 

My problem is, at about 6200 rpm's my power literally falls off. Not gradually, like immediately. As if I'm hitting a fuel cut or something. Could this be because I have stock cam software? Or am I reaching the limitations of the AEG mani and AT270*?


----------



## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Stock head.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

MahTrek=] said:


> Question guys,
> I've listed my mods here a few times but in case it has been missed;
> 
> 'Short ram' intake
> ...


Stock cam file TT chips rev to well over 6200 without a problem. I think their limit is 7000, cam file is 7200 IIRC. I'm sure someone with a tt chip can chime in on the exact rev limit.

Does it sound like you're hitting a limiter? If so, something's wrong with the ignition or fuel system.

If you're not hitting a limiter, the big drop off could be because you have no head work. The ABA head doesn't flow very well stock, and the Autotech 270* isn't really a high revving camshaft, but 6200 RPM with a huge drop off seems odd.. It should atleast want to keep revving.


----------



## TravisTheD (Apr 15, 2011)

Hurt said:


> Stock cam file TT chips rev to well over 6200 without a problem. I think their limit is 7000, cam file is 7200 IIRC. I'm sure someone with a tt chip can chime in on the exact rev limit.
> 
> Does it sound like you're hitting a limiter? If so, something's wrong with the ignition or fuel system.
> 
> If you're not hitting a limiter, the big drop off could be because you have no head work. The ABA head doesn't flow very well stock, and the Autotech 270* isn't really a high revving camshaft, but 6200 RPM with a huge drop off seems odd.. It should atleast want to keep revving.


by head work do u meant just port and polished or decked as well


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

911_fan said:


> Stock head.


In case you missed my response. 

Stock head = NO work done to it. 

Ports have a velocity ramp that becomes a choke point. A stock head with a stock cam, that power drop comes a little after 4500rpms. With a larger came profile, its moved up a bit. You can only pull so much air through a stock intake port, regardless of cam profile. Of course, power should not be a sudden power drop, but something you would notice/feel once you pass the flow limit of the head. It should still pull to the chip's rev limiter regardless. If it's not, then try a new software tune. Something with an aggressive ignition advance.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

911_fan said:


> In case you missed my response.
> 
> Stock head = NO work done to it.
> 
> Ports have a velocity ramp that becomes a choke point. A stock head with a stock cam, that power drop comes a little after 4500rpms. With a larger came profile, its moved up a bit. You can only pull so much air through a stock intake port, regardless of cam profile. Of course, power should not be a sudden power drop, but something you would notice/feel once you pass the flow limit of the head. It should still pull to the chip's rev limiter regardless. If it's not, then try a new software tune. Something with an aggressive ignition advance.


Thanks Travis :thumbup: Colm :thumbup: 

It doesn't feel like a limiter, but it's a hard enough cut that it feels like I hit the brakes. It pushes me forward pretty decently. It's not a huge concern as of right now because 6-6200 is a fine shift point for my setup. However when a built head & new software comes along I will see if the problem continues and then act accordingly.

Travis do you have any experience with ITB's?


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

That sounds more like an ignition issue.

sent from mobile internet device.


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## Audiooutlaw (Jun 28, 2011)

What trani is this??? 02a or 02j? Because I know it's not the headache 020 I'm dealing with



Hurt said:


> I agree. Headwork on the crossflow ABA's = extremely important for good power #'s. I bet my GTI is around 140whp, and it would probably only be 120 without headwork.
> I found an amazing picture from SOWO, I feel like sharing.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

blackspyder said:


> That sounds more like an ignition issue.
> 
> sent from mobile internet device.


Yeh try a new coil. As a chip alternative try the C2 PEM stg. 2


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hey so I sold my turbo. Decided to stay NA on my dd. 
right now I'm considering either buying an obd1 head and getting headwork done at RPM in Westwood which I've heard there's a guy who does great work on 8v heads. I'd mill it 50 thou, port it, 5angle valve job? I'm not 100% sure yet. 
Or getting the Usrt LRIM for now since summer s almost over and I need to replace my rear shocks $$ 

My current mods are: C2 PEM stg2, tt 260 cam with aeg lifters, obx header, 42dd hi flow cat, tt exhaust, gruvenparts lw crank pulley, and a custom intake with heat shield. 
I'm honest about my setup assuming 108-110whp

Do you think the LRIM would put me at 115whp?

Also any thoughts on the headwork?

It's a fun car but some more power would be great.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Audiooutlaw said:


> What trani is this??? 02a or 02j? Because I know it's not the headache 020 I'm dealing with


could be either


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Go on USRTs site. If the dyno plot is still there (which is mine) it will show you what the hp curve looks.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> Hey so I sold my turbo. Decided to stay NA on my dd.
> right now I'm considering either buying an obd1 head and getting headwork done at RPM in Westwood which I've heard there's a guy who does great work on 8v heads. I'd mill it 50 thou, port it, 5angle valve job? I'm not 100% sure yet.
> Or getting the Usrt LRIM for now since summer s almost over and I need to replace my rear shocks $$
> 
> ...


With the headwork and a SRI? Probably 115whp at the most, it's a small cam. 

For the money you'd spend on just the SRI (700), you'd benefit more by buying a SR Stage III MK4 ported manifold (250 with core exchange!), and a bigger cam (272 or 276, ~150-180 brand new, less if bought used), and then you'd have money left over to get the head P&P'd and milled, and you'd have 120whp+ depending on cam profile and head work.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> With the headwork and a SRI? Probably 115whp at the most, it's a small cam.
> 
> For the money you'd spend on just the SRI (700), you'd benefit more by buying a SR Stage III MK4 ported manifold (250 with core exchange!), and a bigger cam (272 or 276, ~150-180 brand new, less if bought used), and then you'd have money left over to get the head P&P'd and milled, and you'd have 120whp+ depending on cam profile and head work.


hmm, well if I did the headwork with HD springs I would go for the 276 (114lca turbo cam) just because no ones tried that out yet NA... and with 11 to 1 compression I think that could be interesting... 

I wouldnt bother with the SR Mk4 IM (not to say its bad) but if Im going to upgrade my intake manifold its going to be a decent LRIM or SRIM.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

eh I just checked USRT's site, theyre not making the ABA LRIM anymore... it was always a bit too pricey... $400-500 for a good SRI would be great... Maybe someone will make one oneday... 

ppl always bitched about it being $700, and I dont blame em' (Im not inferring that thats why USRT isnt making them anymore...)


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Greg had a good thing going when he was selling them for $525 shipped. Then everyone blasted on him and he packed up shop and said ..|.. To the VW crowd.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> Greg had a good thing going when he was selling them for $525 shipped. Then everyone blasted on him and he packed up shop and said ..|.. To the VW crowd.


Well you always stated those older SRI's were better designed compared to the later USRT LRIM.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Also how do you feel about those dynos for the intake manifolds on Scientific Rabbit being tuned by MS as opposed to most people running the c2 pem at this point...?


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> Also how do you feel about those dynos for the intake manifolds on Scientific Rabbit being tuned by MS as opposed to most people running the c2 pem at this point...?


Hey, it's what I used. Since I am fortunate enough to live in a state without emissions testing and LOATHE chip tunes, MS is the only choice for me.... 

The power and torque curves should be similar with a chip tune and keep in mind those pulls were done through an 02A transmission. With an 020 the numbers should be bigger.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Prof315 said:


> Hey, it's what I used. Since I am fortunate enough to live in a state without emissions testing and LOATHE chip tunes, MS is the only choice for me....
> 
> The power and torque curves should be similar with a chip tune and keep in mind those pulls were done through an 02A transmission. With an 020 the numbers should be bigger.


:thumbup:


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I second the 02A sucking down power vs the 020. My GT only put down 135whp with over 11:1 compression, big valve head, USRT manifold, 276 cam, exhaust, and just about every other bolt on..

I'm very interested to see what my GTI puts down with >11.5:1 compression, a 288, and a 020! :thumbup:


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> I second the 02A sucking down power vs the 020. My GT only put down 135whp with over 11:1 compression, big valve head, USRT manifold, 276 cam, exhaust, and just about every other bolt on..
> 
> I'm very interested to see what my GTI puts down with >11.5:1 compression, a 288, and a 020! :thumbup:


:thumbup:


Called up RPM in Westwood, they don't do machine work anymore. 
Debating just swapping in a tt 276 cam and hd springs in my stock head... 

Realized I'm more broke than I thought. :facepalm:


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## Dets97GTI2pointOH (Sep 2, 2006)

Help with pistons. 2.0 aba obdII 83.00 bore
I looking for some pistons that will get me the most amount of power out of my NA engine, while still being a daily and running off gas. 
I have a ported and polished head, port matched intake and header, 3 angle valve grind, undercut & swirled valves, tt270 cam, cam gear, close ratio 020, intake, exhaust.
Is going from the stock 10:1 to 11.5:1 -12:1 going to help me out much?
Has anyone run a similar NA setup and see much improvement from the higher compression.
Any advise on pistons?
Thanks in advance!!


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Dets97GTI2pointOH said:


> Help with pistons. 2.0 aba obdII 83.00 bore
> I looking for some pistons that will get me the most amount of power out of my NA engine, while still being a daily and running off gas.
> I have a ported and polished head, port matched intake and header, 3 angle valve grind, undercut & swirled valves, tt270 cam, cam gear, close ratio 020, intake, exhaust.
> Is going from the stock 10:1 to 11.5:1 -12:1 going to help me out much?
> ...


Firstly, bigger cam! Autotech's 270* is too small for a high compression build.
If you can get 040" decked off a head, your compression will go up to 10.75:1. And then you can get a 90mm headgasket, which increases compression by 0.5:1. Bringing you to over 11:1, which is safe on 93 octane on a C2 or TT chip. You really don't need high compression pistons, but they are available from supertech, though. A good dd would be at less than 12:1. So what I listed should work well. 
Do you have a SRI or a SR stage III MK4 manifold? If not, get one. Worth every penny.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Got my 288* today in the mail! Can't install it yet, as I'm away for work until tomorrow AM. I'm really considering having a custom SRI made for the specs of my motor! Dyno runs soon! 

Trying to find some events for my GTI.. it really sucks having to work so much. I may sell it, I don't have the space at home, and I don't like having to borrow a friend's garage to store it, and I don't get to drive it enough at the limit. I can't even drive it in my neighborhood!
Someone down my road called the boys on my wife today, because her Cabby is too loud (lol..). I wasn't home, of course, but they harassed my wife, saying they have reports that all of our cars are too loud. Wth. The only cars that aren't DB legal are the GTI and the GT (by like 2 points!) if revved over ~4k (which I don't do in the neighborhood). 
I'm very courteous to my neighbors, and I don't like it when they go behind my back and tell the cops on me. They could have just said my car is a little loud and they would appreciate it if I didn't start it up early in the AM, or drive it hard around the block and that would have been it, I'd add another muffler/resonator, and install a cutout for when I want to go fast. Buut noooo. Hoity toity Marblehead :banghead:


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## HURTZ (Jul 14, 2013)

Hurt said:


> Got my 288* today in the mail! Can't install it yet, as I'm away for work until tomorrow AM. I'm really considering having a custom SRI made for the specs of my motor! Dyno runs soon!
> 
> Trying to find some events for my GTI.. it really sucks having to work so much. I may sell it, I don't have the space at home, and I don't like having to borrow a friend's garage to store it, and I don't get to drive it enough at the limit. I can't even drive it in my neighborhood!
> Someone down my road called the boys on my wife today, because her Cabby is too loud (lol..). I wasn't home, of course, but they harassed my wife, saying they have reports that all of our cars are too loud. Wth. The only cars that aren't DB legal are the GTI and the GT (by like 2 points!) if revved over ~4k (which I don't do in the neighborhood).
> I'm very courteous to my neighbors, and I don't like it when they go behind my back and tell the cops on me. They could have just said my car is a little loud and they would appreciate it if I didn't start it up early in the AM, or drive it hard around the block and that would have been it, I'd add another muffler/resonator, and install a cutout for when I want to go fast. Buut noooo. Hoity toity Marblehead :banghead:


Sure you did breh.....sure you did. The stories are becoming more elaborate by the day. You have some sweet stories with no pictures.....you should become a fiction novelist.


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## HURTZ (Jul 14, 2013)




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## HURTZ (Jul 14, 2013)

*70 ****ING PAGE THREAD WITH NOT A SINGLE PICTURE OF YOUR SO CALLED CARS OR WORK.....LOL.....ANYONE WHO BELIEVES THIS DUDE IS LEGIT IS OF LOW INTELLIGENCE.....SERIOUSLY.*


:wave:eace::bs::bs::bs::bs::bs::bs::bs::bs::bs:


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Who was that now banned A$$hole?


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## MK3 LUV (Nov 23, 2012)

Prof315 said:


> Who was that now banned A$$hole?


Some idiot that was obviously messed up if he had nothing better to do with his time than that


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Not to stir the pot...but...at least when I bragged, I supplied pictures and dyno sheets. 

Just sayin.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Hurt said:


> Got my 288* today in the mail! Can't install it yet, as I'm away for work until tomorrow AM. I'm really considering having a custom SRI made for the specs of my motor! Dyno runs soon!
> 
> Trying to find some events for my GTI.. it really sucks having to work so much. I may sell it, I don't have the space at home, and I don't like having to borrow a friend's garage to store it, and I don't get to drive it enough at the limit. I can't even drive it in my neighborhood!
> Someone down my road called the boys on my wife today, because her Cabby is too loud (lol..). I wasn't home, of course, but they harassed my wife, saying they have reports that all of our cars are too loud. Wth. The only cars that aren't DB legal are the GTI and the GT (by like 2 points!) if revved over ~4k (which I don't do in the neighborhood).
> I'm very courteous to my neighbors, and I don't like it when they go behind my back and tell the cops on me. They could have just said my car is a little loud and they would appreciate it if I didn't start it up early in the AM, or drive it hard around the block and that would have been it, I'd add another muffler/resonator, and install a cutout for when I want to go fast. Buut noooo. Hoity toity Marblehead :banghead:


ppl are ridiculous, look at all the *******s with Harley Davidson's, no restrictions on that... :thumbdown:


----------



## wantacad (Apr 4, 2003)

:laugh:


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

MK3 LUV said:


> Some idiot that was obviously messed up if he had nothing better to do with his time than that


thats VT-MKJett, he got pretty mad when i bought the hood he wanted from Colm lol dudes a 32+ year old drug addict, is a multitime felon, drug dealer. dude cant even leave the state without getting permission LOL he's been bought and sold :laugh:

on topic -
colm did you ever make those maf extension kits because i could really use one, i want the MK4 manifold but dont want to hack up my wiring harness.. 

on my daily i got a tt 260* cam, a tt chip, tt exhaust. is that enough for 130bhp? I have a neuspeed P-flo but idk if that will make more power than the stock airbox.. according to autotech, their cai gives 5WHP over the stock airbox on a 97 Golf!


----------



## ny_fam (Apr 3, 2004)

Do a quick search on ebay for the maf extensions. I've seen a bunch there and wondered if any were worth the $.
Also I have a autotech 270 and tt 276 4 sale in the classified section. I know these are the 2 preferred 2.0 cams


----------



## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

ny_fam said:


> Do a quick search on ebay for the maf extensions. I've seen a bunch there and wondered if any were worth the $.
> Also I have a autotech 270 and tt 276 4 sale in the classified section. I know these are the 2 preferred 2.0 cams


it says theyre for GM cars with 3 pin connectors.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

vacuumnoise said:


> ppl are ridiculous, look at all the *******s with Harley Davidson's, no restrictions on that... :thumbdown:


Yeah, Motorcycles bug the heck out of me. I don't understand how a Harley with huge, super loud exhaust can possibly be legal when you can hear them miles away, and my GT is technically illegally loud. There must be some other sort of regulation regarding cars vs motorbikes. 



LöW N SLö said:


> on topic -
> colm did you ever make those maf extension kits because i could really use one, i want the MK4 manifold but dont want to hack up my wiring harness..
> 
> on my daily i got a tt 260* cam, a tt chip, tt exhaust. is that enough for 130bhp? I have a neuspeed P-flo but idk if that will make more power than the stock airbox.. according to autotech, their cai gives 5WHP over the stock airbox on a 97 Golf!




You'd probably see around 105-110whp at most with a small cam like that, with just basic mods. The Neuspeed P-Flo would probably flow marginally better than stock if you actually had a source of cold air, like a vent hose going from the lower duct to the filter area. 

I never saw that dyno so I can't comment on that part of the Autotech piece, but I imagine it would flow better than stock just because of the way it's designed. Less ribs, smoother surfaces for airflow, nice MAF readings, right in a stream of cold air at all times, etc. I don't like cone filters, so.. I may be biased.

Has anyone ever tried flipping the stock MK3 airbox's air snorkel 180* and having it suck in air from the driver side fender? That seems like a good, easy solution to running a MK4 intake manifold in a MK3 car with the battery moved.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

I'll give the air box swap a try once I put mine in the shop

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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## Dets97GTI2pointOH (Sep 2, 2006)

Hurt said:


> Firstly, bigger cam! Autotech's 270* is too small for a high compression build.
> Do you have a SRI or a SR stage III MK4 manifold? If not, get one. Worth every penny.


Thanks for the piston info!! Im going to go with https://www.raceeng.com/p-10434-wis-vw-aba83mm-1051rings-kit.aspx

It's a TT 270 with a TT chip for the 270, so not really wanting to change that up right now.

I dont have a SRI, i have the Injen intake that has the box that bolts to the stock lower air box, so you can draw nice cold air from the fender pass side. I also have the stock intake upper and lower hogged out and port matched to the ported intakes on the head, and my header is ported out, and matched to the ported header, so it flows pretty good. Took alot of work, to get the upper and lower intakes hogged, but was well worth it!!!

If i was to sell all that and get something with better flow, i think i would go with motorcycle ITB's like the R1's or something similar. I cant justify the $750 for the SRI's, when i can get the R1's for $50 off ebay, and fab up a lower intake to ITB setup, for $25 and some time.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

I dont know who babysits this forum anymore, but I reported this thread to be locked and have HURT's IP checked against the other member names (Low N Slo and OC80) for aliases....which is a bannable offense and is prohibited by the site's user agreement. 

It's one thing to be a useful, contributing member to the cause...it's another thing all together being a troll with a 70 page thread full of bullsh*t lies. And before anyone starts crying about any of the useful info here....go read the sticky threads or learn how to navigate the Search tool. Because none of the info contained in this thread is new.


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

I've been reading/contributing to this thread from the very beginning and have always found it EXTREMELY odd that HURT has never once posted pictures of any of his projects, cars, or wild dyno results. Everytime someone calls him out it gets swept under the rug, it's time to expose whether he is legit or not...

:beer: Here`s to exposing possibly the largest troll/pathological liar on Vortex in quite some time:what:

Sent from my VS840 4G using Tapatalk 2


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the wild 4-figure shopping spree's he goes on with every project car he buys/builds. 

Every time I read one of those (many) posts, I'm like "...really? :sly:"

I'm just here to make sure the "advice" given is actual legit info.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

911_fan said:


> I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the wild 4-figure shopping spree's he goes on with every project car he buys/builds.
> 
> Every time I read one of those (many) posts, I'm like "...really? :sly:"
> 
> I'm just here to make sure the "advice" given is actual legit info.


:thumbup:


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Someone direct me to a place that does good headwork on ABA heads. 

Especially if its in north NJ!


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

See if ny_fam does heads. If not, I bet he know who to call.


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## LöW N SLö (Jan 15, 2013)

Hey 911_fan,

Dont drag my name through the mud into something that has nothing to do with me. that's very rude, and yeah Colm isnt the nicest guy, ask him yourself or actually talk to him he is rude and condescending alot . I have seen his Jetta SC, it has mass plates, ending with XAH and he has done work on my old 2.0 and he sold me a few things, also he bought a "rare" cam from me (shcrick 272*) for 150 dollars, didnt tell me it was rare til after he bought it.. im not his greatest fan but some of the stuff you guys say is childish, grow up, be men..:screwy: sorry for SP im mobile.

-Sent from my notsoSmartPhone-


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

Why has colm not just popped into the thread and proved everyone wrong by providing atleast one picture casting some evidence of truth then?? It sucks to temporarily derail the thread but if it's true then like 60-70% of the information/experiences on here, while they may be accurate, is completely made up lololololol


Sent from my VS840 4G using Tapatalk 2


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

*My final response to this nonsense:*



911_fan said:


> I dont know who babysits this forum anymore, but I reported this thread to be locked and have HURT's IP checked against the other member names (Low N Slo and OC80) for aliases....which is a bannable offense and is prohibited by the site's user agreement.
> 
> It's one thing to be a useful, contributing member to the cause...it's another thing all together being a troll with a 70 page thread full of bullsh*t lies. And before anyone starts crying about any of the useful info here....go read the sticky threads or learn how to navigate the Search tool. Because none of the info contained in this thread is new.


Hey, Travis. Surprised to see this from you of all people, I considered you a friend, I've looked at multiple cars on behalf of your budget for your daughters first automobile.
You've always, always been bitter since I broke your superfast OMG record of 142whp. You thought your 8v was the best in the USA. You were wrong. Shame, shame. You were pretty bitter when I first joined over that, weren't you? You shouldn't be, it's a shame you didn't have the money I did to go further with the build, like I did. I don't contest you know more than I do as far as engines go. You were a friend, now I have nothing to say to you. 


02vwgolf said:


> I've been reading/contributing to this thread from the very beginning and have always found it EXTREMELY odd that HURT has never once posted pictures of any of his projects, cars, or wild dyno results. Everytime someone calls him out it gets swept under the rug, it's time to expose whether he is legit or not...
> 
> :beer: Here`s to exposing possibly the largest troll/pathological liar on Vortex in quite some time:what:
> 
> Sent from my VS840 4G using Tapatalk 2


Funny, as there was a dyno sheet of my 135.9whp 276* NA build, and 2 dyno's sheets of my GT after going the BBM route. Not to mention pictures of my old exhaust set up, which is fairly unique and I'm not sure many other Jetta's have a dual exhaust outlet valance. Just because I don't say a car is mine doesn't mean it isn't. I don't like flaunting my things. I build my cars how I want them. It doesn't matter if anyone else approves.



911_fan said:


> I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the wild 4-figure shopping spree's he goes on with every project car he buys/builds.
> 
> Every time I read one of those (many) posts, I'm like "...really? :sly:"
> 
> I'm just here to make sure the "advice" given is actual legit info.


Yeah, because you're the superhero of the 2.0 forum, right? 
I don't have to prove anything to you, and what I spend my hard earned money on isn't any of your business, is it? And it's usually 5 figures, I spent around 25k on the GT alone.  
I C Y U N V ME 



LöW N SLö said:


> Hey 911_fan,
> 
> Dont drag my name through the mud into something that has nothing to do with me. that's very rude, and yeah Colm isnt the nicest guy, ask him yourself or actually talk to him he is rude and condescending alot . I have seen his Jetta SC, it has mass plates, ending with XAH and he has done work on my old 2.0 and he sold me a few things, also he bought a "rare" cam from me (shcrick 272*) for 150 dollars, didnt tell me it was rare til after he bought it.. im not his greatest fan but some of the stuff you guys say is childish, grow up, be men..:screwy: sorry for SP im mobile.
> 
> -Sent from my notsoSmartPhone-


I appreciate your support, but kid, I didn't scam you as you insinuate. I gave you a fair price on a used camshaft. I'm not a mean person, but I get angry when people hound me to do work to their cars for little to nothing, especially when I could be home with my family. I traveled 2 hours to help you. I did a cam install, a OBD1 chip solder, and a SRI install for 50 lousy dollars. That's not even enough to take my family out to dinner. Don't complain.. I've invited you to my house for a BBQ for crying out loud. That's awfully condescending.. 



Low N Blows MACAQUE said:


> They erased my other posts....:wave::wave:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes, I told him you are a drug addict, and an idiot, and to look it up if he didn't believe me. He must have found info on his own (perhaps in your "addiction" OT thread). 

You're obviously upset you got banned. You got what you deserved. You did nothing but troll in the MK3 fashion forum. Not only to seasoned members, but to new people. That's a real good way to get people to want to stay on the forum, yeah?
I do not have to prove anything to a person like you. The Heroin obviously messed you up pretty bad. And I believe drug dealing is frowned upon. To me, you (and all drug dealers) are a bug that should be squashed. 
It IS stalking, and I'd be happy to take legal action upon you for slander and harassment.

I do live in Marblehead. No, my house didn't cost 600,000. It cost around 2.25/3 that, plus the realtor fee.. 
Yes, I have owned 2 MKIV Supra's. Yes, I have owned muscle cars. I've only had 1 M3. I have owned DSM's, I have owned 10's of MK3's, ~6-8 MK2's, and a few MK1s. Only 4 MK4's. 0 MK5's. 2 MK6's. 3 B3's, 2 B4's, 0 B5's, 0 B6, 0 B7.. but a new Passat is coming to replace my wife's Golf Gti, as she wants a nicer car.
I never claimed to know EVERYTHING about suspension. I know very little, actually, to the point that I need someone else to set my camber, rebound, tire pressure, etc, up for me. I was just sharing my knowledge as far as cost/rank of coilovers IMHO. Yes, I have owned quite a few different sets/brands and I can compare them pretty well, but I do not know everything. Not even close, and I never claimed to!
I do know quite a bit about the ABA engine. I'm not an "expert" or a "Pro".
I don't own a "shop" as you probably think. It's a garage, a small warehouse looking thing. It isn't somewhere you can buy and sell things out of, if that's what you're thinking. 
I have built quite a few cars. Yes, a few were used on tracks. But they aren't classified as race cars like you'd see going around Leguna Seca or something. I mean Auto-X, some SCCA, MAYBE some tracks If I'm lucky. But the 1/4 mile = my preference. 
I do own a few MK3's, yes (98 GT, 98 GTI, 97 Golf). I only own 1 MK6 - the other is my wife's, along with her 95' Cabrio.
I don't appreciate you calling my friend derogatory names. She's cleaned up her life. Yes she was born into money. But that doesn't mean her parents pay her way, she's earning it. Yes she owned quite a few Surf Green cars, 4 total I believe. What's the big deal? There isn't one. You're angry I bought it out from under you. I can understand that, but money is money and I obviously had it faster. 
You obviously are a dummy. You've asked me for advice before. It's funny how you get so angry about nothing that concerns you. You're childish, and I hope for the people around you's sake that you grow up someday. Or go back to jail. Either or. They quite obviously can't rehabilitate people like you.


In short:
As to why I didn't respond earlier in the day: I actually work! I know, crazy right?
I don't have to prove anything to anyone. I build my cars how *I* like them. I don't give a poop about what other people think of them. I don't want this thread blackholed, as it actually helps people. Unlike VTMK-Jett, and all his other usernames..
People who would like help are still welcome to PM me. It's fine.


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## The Rice Cooker (Jan 13, 2004)

Guys, last I checked... this forum was for discussion and sharing information. Whether or not someone exaggerates about their car online or in person is not going to surprise me, because things like that will happen. I am not saying that the user in question is exaggerating, because whether or not that is the case, it doesn't make the sun rise in the morning. I come here for the discussion and ideas. Now if someone is going to experiment on their own vehicle based on something that someone online said in a forum post, that will be their own prerogative. Can this thread get back on topic to car talk, before the mods lock it?

:wave:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

> You've always, always been bitter since I broke your superfast OMG record of 142whp. You thought your 8v was the best in the USA. You were wrong. Shame, shame. You were pretty bitter when I first joined over that, weren't you?


You're joking right?  Don't flatter yourself. That was achieved on a super slim budget over a few years of saving every spare coin I had. 



> Yeah, because you're the superhero of the 2.0 forum, right?


Nope. I'm just a contributor of useful, factual info that helps/ed a lot of people out over the years. Not my fault I was put on a pedestal. I could care less either way. Oh, and 25k on a $2000 economy car? Yikes. :thumbdown: 

Unsuscribing to this thread. If any pics of his 'builds' are posted, someone shoot me a PM. Otherwise, enjoy this personal blog...um...thread. 

:wave:


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

For f's sake can we just rename this once useful thread to the drama llama lounge?

sent from mobile internet device.


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## wantacad (Apr 4, 2003)

take this **** elsewhere


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Where can I get the .90mm HG? I don't see it on BFI anymore.


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## MYGTI_MA (May 3, 2010)

Hopefully will be adding some content here once my compression issue gets sorted out but here is the current list of parts:

Motor (lowered compression)
Wiesco pistons
Integrated rods
mk4 intake manifold
TT adjustable cam gear
BB fuel rail
MSD Coil
Magnacore 8mm wires ( :thumbdown: )

Tranny
02A ATA (g60)
mk3 tdi 5th
Quaife LSD with ARP bolts
02j shift tower
Diesel Geek 02j short shifter
02j ball and socket shifter
XTD 6 puck stage 3 clutch ( price was right $0 )
Southbend stage 2 presure plate

Turbo related
Rotomaster 60trim turbo rolleyes
SAAB 95 front intercooler
Walbro 255 inline fuel pump
Greddy turbo timer
VEI dual pods with custom clam shell pod (boost/af)__(EGT/ oil temp)
WOT box
UM stage 2 FI chip
42lb green tops
Tial .38 wastegate
Forge diverter valve


MISC
brakes have been upgraded to vr6 fronts but retained the 4x100 lug with rotors from TT
BFI stage 1 mounts all around
Nuespeed front strut brace
Nuespeed rear strut quad brace
Nuespeed 28mm rear swaybar
Autotech/magnaflow 2.5 exhaust
vr6 120amp alt


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

MYGTI_MA said:


> Magnacore 8mm wires ( :thumbdown: )


Just curious, what don't you like about the Magnecor wires? Just the size? I had a set of 10mm on the first Mk3 I owned and they lasted life of vehicle and over 200k miles on them.


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## 96GOLFman (Mar 1, 2012)

So was colm fake or not? 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## 495306 (Oct 20, 2009)

vacuumnoise said:


> Where can I get the .90mm HG? I don't see it on BFI anymore.


the all metal one is the .90mm hg

http://store.blackforestindustries.com/abamehe.html


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## Svën Höek (Nov 9, 2011)

vonvolem14 said:


> I expect a post from the mods explaining to members what happened here and why the OP and Low N Slo were banned. The community is owed a explanation of why you let this **** go on when I repeatedly told moderators about my suspicions over the last 6 months.
> 
> Pretty sad I had to go to these lengths and cause this much BS on both forums to prove my point. Yeah.....I break the rules....instigate.....act childish....make troll threads.....post funny pictures......get people riled up....etc.....
> 
> ...



^^^^^^^^ THIS^^^^^^^^^


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

vonvolem14 said:


> I expect a post from the mods explaining to members what happened here and why the OP and Low N Slo were banned. The community is owed a explanation of why you let this **** go on when I repeatedly told moderators about my suspicions over the last 6 months.
> 
> Pretty sad I had to go to these lengths and cause this much BS on both forums to prove my point. Yeah.....I break the rules....instigate.....act childish....make troll threads.....post funny pictures......get people riled up....etc.....
> 
> ...


Your efforts are applauded, I've had a hard time believing him from the start! My mind is literally blown still though, I've seen a lot of trolling on here but this is a whole new level of pathological lying!!

Sent from my VS840 4G using Tapatalk 2


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

I freakin' knew it. I knew it all along. :thumbdown:
Expecting this explanation, hopefully this thread can still be open, even if it has to be cleaned.

There IS good information in here by others. :thumbup:


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Anyone else notice this edit yesterday?


> *This Article is Intellectual property of Colm Cullen.*


I say good luck to him claiming IP on a public forum with information that is generally common knowledge.

And Vortex cares more about making money and protecting advertisers than actually moderating posts based on forum rules.


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

EuroSwoop said:


> the all metal one is the .90mm hg
> 
> http://store.blackforestindustries.com/abamehe.html


thank you.


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## MYGTI_MA (May 3, 2010)

zero. said:


> Just curious, what don't you like about the Magnecor wires? Just the size? I had a set of 10mm on the first Mk3 I owned and they lasted life of vehicle and over 200k miles on them.


couple of the wires were poorly built (READ: fell apart the first time I tried to pull it off a plug with a wire removal tool) and once has developed a weird bubble and stopped working correctly. Heard a lot of good things about the product prior to my purchase. Haven't had the time to get in contact with Magnacore to see what they can do to help me out. Likely not much as I bought them a while ago but haven't put much wear on them due to a long protracted build.


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## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

WOW.....and here I thought the guy spoke from personal knowledge.....I asked him for pics, kept coming back with excuses but had a DAMN good story. Does ANYONE even really know this guy??

I will be contributing to the Vortex with my project and where I am at so far soon (with TONS of PICS) :laugh:


And Thank you for showing myself and everyone else this FAKE :wave:


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

I should never have stopped moderating this forum. :facepalm: Glad to see this cleared up finally. (thanks Nate for looking into this.) I'll be the first to admit being duped at first. But the builds and constant purchase of expensive mod lists eventually gave it away. 

**As always, my door (private message) is always open to you guys for help on anything.**

*I would suggest you all stop posting in here*...reason being, it's unsearchable if you bury your question in this thread. A proper thread title and a well thought out question/request in the thread body will serve you best.

Like I said earlier. This thread is done, and I won't be checking in on it anylonger. Post a new thread or PM me if you cannot find your answer in the Sticky's or the Search feature. 


Good luck guys. :heart:


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## Svën Höek (Nov 9, 2011)

911_fan said:


> I should never have stopped moderating this forum. :facepalm: Glad to see this cleared up finally. (thanks Nate for looking into this.)


this is funny that Nate is the one who looked into it because the guy who brought this to the forums attention first attempted to expose this guy Hurt by PMs with Nate going back six months ago which obviously didn't do anything until just recently. Did Nate ignore him until a more reputable vortex member also reported it? Looks exactly like what took place here. 

vortex politics. :thumbdown: 

fyi: the guy who reported all this has taken screen shots of every single deleted post. 
He will also get a copy of this, so deleting it won't erase it from the record. He is keeping a record. I'm just a friend who supported and didn't doubt his (what some called crazy) accusations.


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## blackspyder (Apr 26, 2011)

Has anyone ever tried to run a turbo on a Stroker ABA successfully?

sent from mobile internet device.


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## [email protected] (Dec 12, 2001)

Svën Höek said:


> this is funny that Nate is the one who looked into it because the guy who brought this to the forums attention first attempted to expose this guy Hurt by PMs with Nate going back six months ago which obviously didn't do anything until just recently. Did Nate ignore him until a more reputable vortex member also reported it? Looks exactly like what took place here.
> 
> vortex politics. :thumbdown:
> 
> ...



I'll just tell you that you have zero idea what goes on behind the scenes here. At all.

Anyone with concerns over this is welcome to bring them to me via PM.

Thanks!

-Tim


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## [email protected] (Dec 12, 2001)

Hi everybody:

First, let me apologize for the previous post. I was in a pissy mood last night after a long day at work. I didn't mean to snap at anyone, and I shouldn't have let my personal mood carry over to what I was posting here.

That said - I understand that there's a perception here that we (the moderators and or the VMG staff) have somehow "played favorites" over this whole situation, and that we don't listen to some users and do listen to others. Please believe me that we've been aware of this entire situation for a long while, and that we've been monitoring things. Our moderators work _really_ hard to respond to _everyone's_ concerns and to treat everyone equally. If they didn't, I would fire them, and they know it. The timing on this one happened to make it look like we were listening to some people and not others, but please, please rest assured that the moderators have been on top of this for a long while now. This is just how the timing worked out.

Several people have been banned over the entire deal, but (and I suppose you'll have to just take me on my word here) it was only after repeated rule violations. The moderators don't have access to the ban button - myself and a couple of other admins do, and it's always our call to ban (or not ban) someone after we review what's going on.

Like I said before, anyone who has questions about this is free to drop me a PM, and I'll respond. Again, sorry for the shortness of the previous post.

-Tim


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