# rebuilding 1.8L 8v block



## Esevw (Dec 27, 2002)

Ok so first of all I have already tried to search, but have not found any details on what to do. I am in the process of rebuilding my 8v bottom end and I am confused on what to do next.
This is were I am at so far, the block is basically bare, pistons are out and so is the crankshaft.
Before I take it to the machine shop to have the block worked on, what do I need to take to the machine shop. Do I need to take the pistons and crankshaft with me? 
I plan on just having the block cleaned and honed. I don't plan on boring it out because I want to use the stock pistons.
Will the stock pistons and rods be able to hold a little bit of boost if I ever turbo my motor?
If not I kinda plan on buying these rods from Integrated Engineering and maybe just maybe buy new stock pistons also.









What do you guys suggest I do, this is my first full motor rebuild so I am trying to not mess anything up.


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## Esevw (Dec 27, 2002)

anyone? I need some input plz. Trying to get this motor built up. Any knowledge would be greatly appreciated.


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## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

Esevw said:


> Before I take it to the machine shop to have the block worked on, what do I need to take to the machine shop. Do I need to take the pistons and crankshaft with me?
> I plan on just having the block cleaned and honed. I don't plan on boring it out because I want to use the stock pistons.
> Will the stock pistons and rods be able to hold a little bit of boost if I ever turbo my motor?
> If not I kinda plan on buying these rods from Integrated Engineering and maybe just maybe buy new stock pistons also.
> What do you guys suggest I do . . .


First relax. I am sure you have heard the saying "haste makes waste" before and when working on engines that waste could be expensive or leave you stranded on a lonely dark road. So don't be in any hurray and think things through while breathing normal. I only say that because your last post sounds like a panic attack after only one day of waiting, if wrong forget it.

Yes the factory rods can handle mild boost. The pistons on the other hand might be wrong but you don't indicate which engine it is so that's only a comment. All the crankshafts are of the forged variety and can handle a lot (there is an exception but I doubt you have that engine). VW engines, at least all the ones I work with, are very tough engines. If you compare the parts against other brands you would wonder just why people buy the others or how they stay running for so long.

For the work you are planning at the machine shop you will not have to take anything with you. There are some things to either do or think about doing though. If the intermediate shaft bearings are somewhat new, remove them and re-use them. The fluid used to clean the block, not always but often, will damage the bearings and they will need replacing. So either remove them or plan on getting new ones (you can ask the shop if the fluid is harmful). Freeze plugs, incorrect but most common name, should be removed and then replaced. I was once told by a shop that the turn the block up side down so that all the crud drains out of the cooling jacket. When the block was home I noticed a "freeze plug" looked thin and rusty so I popped it out to replace it. Surprise, cooling jacket was still caked with crud in the lower lying areas so I remove them all now prior to cleaning. That goes for the oil passages also if you really want it clean.

Some obvious things but over looked are to wash it out good with hot soapy water when you get it home. When dry pain it with some good hight temp paint before any rust starts. Have a set of taps handy to run down every threaded hole you will be using to make sure it is OK (I use taps that I dull on a wire wheel first to avoid removing any material). Coat all bare metal surfaces with oil, WD-40 is Ok for short periods but if you plan to leave it sit for some time use thicker oil, like engine oil. Clean is the key work, any dirt you leave in or that can come loose when running can ruin your engine. Save your money on rods like those unless you are building a true race engine.


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## vegabond (Dec 12, 2009)

I rebuilt my first one last year, and am working on my second one now. (not the same one!) First off make sure you have a good machine shop who knows what they are doing, and than trust what they have to say. You should bring in the block, intermediate shaft, and crankshaft. You want the machinist to "mic" the shafts to make sure they are still within specs. Allow the machinist to make the call on whether it just needs a hone or if it needs to be bored out a little. Once he cleans and inspects everything than you can get to the fun stuff of ordering new stuff. The more items you can have him clean and look at the better your rebuild will be in the end. have him check the pistons and rods to check their clearances. If they look great to you, they may look suspect to him. 
I was worried last year on my first rebuild that I was spending too much time/money on my rebuild, but once it was all back together I am happy to have spent the money on boring, new pistons and all the labor my machinist put into it. I have complete faith in that engine now which is why I passed it onto my girlfriend. one less car to worry about.


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## Esevw (Dec 27, 2002)

Awesome thanks for the input guys, that gives me more of an idea of what I need to do.

@WaterWheels ^^
I wasn't really trying to sound like I had a panic attack lol, all I needed was to know the next procedures on what to do next on rebuilding my block. I do plan on possibly getting new stock 1.8 8v piston and maybe just running the stock rods. I am defenetly going to replace all of the bearing and seals on the block for sure. Main bearing, etc...

I will have everything inspected by the machinist and see what they suggest I do about any parts, before I go and start buying things. He already shaved a few thousands of my cylinder head and got the bottom resurfaced and straight as an arrow. (This shop was recommended to me by a good vw enthusiast/mechanic/friend, he said he's had them do some machine work for him and they are trust worthy.)


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## Seax_Smith (Jun 1, 2007)

A good general rule: If you yourself didn't repalce something, like the intermediates shaft bearings, replace it/them.

Biggest mistake people make rebuilding eniges:

They hurry and dont thing about what they are doing and why they are doing it.

They resue parts which are close enough to "fine", but wont last the second life of the engine.

They don't pay enough attention to keeping things clean and don't pay enough to lubricating everything well.

Assembly lube is a very good investment, and be mindful that it won't sit there forever.

With newly honed cylinders, washing them out well and IMMEDIATE rust prevention is MADITORY. A good way to clean tehm is to get a toilet brush just slightly larger than the bore, and a couple of 5 gallon buckets on near boiling water and grease cutting dish soap and have fun making a mess. Rince them out with super hot water as well and do everything you can to dry them quickly (have used a 1500 watt hair dryer on them). I have always careflly and lighty smeared the clyinder wall with water proof bearing grease. When it is time for the pistons to go in, I claen off the walls with lint free paper rags and denatured alcohol until the rags come up perfectly clean, then coat them with 20w/50 a few time and am sure the new rings are oiled well as well.

You can make a good assembly lube with a 50/50 mix of 20w50 and 80/90 gear oil.

Rebuilding an engine is simple. It is just a million little steps, each of which needs to be perfect. Do one thing, do it perfectly, stop, double check it, double check cleanliness and lubrication, then do the next little step. (short breaks between each step are really helpful in perventing menat and physical fatigue)

There is no such thing as too clean, too well libricated, too spot on with your measurement, too much double checking, or being too careful or too methodical. Have fun with it and stop watching the clock.


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