# Turbo oil return drain line leak



## StarvinMarvin (Feb 25, 2005)

Is there a DIY for replacing the oil return line from the turbo to the pan?

Judging by the amount of oil on the sub frame, this has been going for some time. After cleaning up the bottom of the line, a fresh seep of oil formed within 5 min or so.

The flex portion of the line looked relatively clean, so it leads me to believe the leak is where the flex meets the bottom part of the line. But, is there another spot higher up on the line or turbo where the leak could be coming from, but just travels down the hose? 

Is this a known issue?

101K miles on the engine.


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## 4no (Jun 30, 2009)

they tend to rust over time.

it's a good time to do an oil change while replacing the return line.

you'll need:

oil return line
oil return line gasket
oil
filter

same steps as doing an oil change
before you fill car with oil, remove the line, should be 2 bolts on the pan and 2 on the turbo
remove and replace with new one don't forget the gaskets


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## StarvinMarvin (Feb 25, 2005)

Thanks. Do you have apart number? Is a gasket needed on the oil pan, turbo or both?

Have part numbers?

I found the diagram on vw discount parts, but dont see the part number and like to search for parts by number to make sure I'm getting a decent deal.

http://www.vwdiscountparts.com/part...leid=1398517&diagram=9276840&diagramCallOut=3

Also, I'm seeing a references to coolant lines. Coolant and Oil are interchangeable in this instance here, correct? Coolant line = Oil line and Coolant drain = Oil drain?


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## radlynx (Jan 4, 2007)

See this link. 

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--1.8T/Engine/Turbocharger/Gaskets/
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--1.8T/Engine/Turbocharger/Oil_Lines/

you will need both the upper gasket and the lower gasket and the bolt on the turbo charger since it may be rusted already. 

to be able to remove it properly, you'll also need to remove the axle cover, just right above the axle so you have more room to remove and clean the area. I have the same problem as you currently have and i loose about half quart of oil every 2K miles. the leak i had is coming from the bottom rusted part of the hose. make sure to clean the surface with a utility knife so you have a better seal when you install it. by the way, i'm not getting any more leak from that area. keep us posted!



StarvinMarvin said:


> Thanks. Do you have apart number? Is a gasket needed on the oil pan, turbo or both?
> 
> Have part numbers?
> 
> ...


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## radlynx (Jan 4, 2007)

Here's the part# that you will need.
1pc 058145757C - upper gasket
1pc 058145757A - lower gasket

2pc 252647 - upper bolt
2pc 465683 - lower bolt

1pc 06A145735AA - return oil line or 1pc 06A145735AB - return oil line (hybrid pan) - you'll need to check and make sure you get the right part for this. or check your dealer for the correct part#.


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## StarvinMarvin (Feb 25, 2005)

Thanks for the info, guys.

Also, was able to answer the question about Oil & Coolant lines. 

Been a while since I've been around this engine. :facepalm:


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## White Jetta (Mar 17, 2002)

Don't waste all that money on a simple return line. Check ebay for parts like these and make one yourself, using some -10an braided stainless hose and 2 adapter fittings.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Oil-R...Parts_Accessories&hash=item25719c32e0&vxp=mtr

Or a kit,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-S...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6d1293e8&vxp=mtr


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## radlynx (Jan 4, 2007)

did you fix this yet? 



StarvinMarvin said:


> Thanks for the info, guys.
> 
> Also, was able to answer the question about Oil & Coolant lines.
> 
> Been a while since I've been around this engine. :facepalm:


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## StarvinMarvin (Feb 25, 2005)

White Jetta said:


> Don't waste all that money on a simple return line. Check ebay for parts like these and make one yourself, using some -10an braided stainless hose and 2 adapter fittings.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Oil-R...Parts_Accessories&hash=item25719c32e0&vxp=mtr
> 
> ...


 
Thanks, but not worried about the money. I want it done right. 



radlynx said:


> did you fix this yet?


 Ordering the parts now. Cracked the oil pan this morning. :banghead: Looks like this is a now a "while you're in there" job. 

Will take some pics and post results after the weekend.


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## StarvinMarvin (Feb 25, 2005)

I did the fix this weekend, along with a replacement oil pan and replacement ebay taco intercooler. 

*Oil Return Line:* 

Straight forward replacement. Since I was doing the oil pan, I had already removed the lower bolts, and had the oil already drained from the engine. 

The upper bolts are a pain to get to. Remove the heat shield over the half shaft. The location of one of the bolts is difficult to access due the close proximity of the axle. I fit a socket onto the bolt, then fished a ratchet into position. 

Install to the turbo has the same problems because of clearance, and while the Bentley calls for a specific torque on those bolts, fitting a torque wrench up there is impossible so we tightened them to "tight." 

here are the part numbers - thanks to radlynx: 

1pc 058145757C - upper gasket 
1pc 058145757A - lower gasket 
1pc 06A145735AA 

*Oil Pan* 

This is a pretty common replacement in the MK4 world so I won't belabor the install. We bought a kit from FCP Euro for under $100. This pan is their own brand and is a cast of the original. Pan fit with no problems or issues. 

We cross-threaded the two bolt holes on the two transmission bolts inside the bell-housing. The access to those bolts is at an angle and threading them in correctly is difficult to say the least. The result is we're relying on the sealant and the two bolts at the corners to hold the pan up and the oil back. So far so good. There were two small leaks at the front of the pan mostly do to an inefficient sealing. 

So to repair the stripped threads, from the way it looks, we'll have to replace the rear main seal housing? Is that correct? That where it looks like those bolts thread into. We plan to do the permanent fix when we do the clutch this summer. 

*Taco Intercooler* 

There's always going to be a debate about quality of products bought on ebay. I guess time will tell if we got what we paid for. Anyway, the IC is a nice replacement of the stock Valeo IC that has seen 103K miles, was filled with about half a pint of oil and had been bumped, bruised, dented and cracked along the way so many times, it probably wasn't holding constant pressure. 

Taco IC has nice welds, large single core, and after we were able to source an 11/16th drill bit to drill out the MAF hole, bolted up with relatively few problems. The old bushings don't fit the mounting tabs, but we cut the bushings up and used the top parts to help mount to the frame. Bumper cover is a tight fit, but fits. Butt dyno felt a noticeable increase. And in my brother's own words, "the car is fast as tits. new intercooler does serious work." 

Most of the benefit of the new IC is likely from now having an IC that doesn't lose pressure (if there was one on the old IC) as well as the cooling efficiency of the larger core. With the old IC we were only seeing 19 PSI spikes. New IC still has a 19 PSI spike, but add to it cooler, denser air and no pressure loss, we've seen a noticeable improvement. 

So for the people who think that all parts suck if they're not difficult to obtain, rare, expensive or don't have some some brand name on them, here's a real world review and endorsement.


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## forumaccount (Jul 24, 2012)

How do I know if I have the hybrid pan. I'm nowhere near my car and won't be for a while which is why I must ask. I have a 2005 MKIV Jetta GLI 1.8t.

Thanks for the quick write up and part #'s here.

EDIT:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV_GLI--1.8T/Engine/Mechanical/Oil_Pan/


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