# Glazed my brakes??



## traffic (Sep 23, 2003)

Ok, I think I did it. I went out to bed in my new pads. Maybe I went a bit overboard. IDK. But now I have less braking then I did before the bedding in. (PBR Deluxe Plus)
I have a feeling that when bedding in street pads like the Deluxe (or redbox) that you have to be careful not to overheat them. They aren't quite like ferodo ds2500 that love heat. Street pads just suck when they are too hot.
My rotors are nice and shiny though. What a mirrored finish.
Deglazing techniques anyone?


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## traffic (Sep 23, 2003)

*Re: Glazed my brakes?? (traffic)*


_Quote »_*What causes brake pad glazing?*
Brake pad glazing is caused when the brake pad friction material is overheated.
This results in crystallized friction material on the pad surface and the brake disc.
Typical symptoms of glazed brake pads include: Poor stopping performance, vibration or brake judder, and cracks or fissures in the brake pad material.
Pad glazing is typically caused by operating the brake pads at a temperature above the specified temperature range of the friction material or not properly following the 'Bedding-in' instructions for the brake pads. Always follow the manufacturers brake pad bedding-in instructions and use a brake pad that has a temperature range that is sufficient for its intended use.

Doh!!! Guess I shouldn't try using semi race pad bedding in techniques on a OEM replacement street pad.










_Modified by traffic at 9:00 PM 4-8-2006_


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## bruzer2000 (Feb 1, 2006)

*Re: Glazed my brakes?? (traffic)*

Hey man,
if your pads are glazed, it's really no problem. Just take your pads and rotors off and throw them in the trash








I kid, i kid
No seriously, just remove the pads and and run some course sandpaper on them until you see a more matte finish on the friction surface and you'll start to see the raw pad material come through. I good trick is to sand the side of the pad a little to see the color/texture of the friction surface material itself, so you can better gauge how much to sand off. once you gett all the shiny "glazing" off, just reinstall them and you're ready to go. I'm a heavy vehicle diesel mechanic (big rigs) and glazed brakes are a daily affair, so trust me on this one








As for your discs, just run sandpaper on them as well, but make absolutely sure that you sand them evenly, meaning don't sand one side more then the other, or you'll end up with vibration, jerky braking, and uneven brake wear. just sand them until the mirror finish is gone. that should be enough.
That's all there is to it man, good luck!!!


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## traffic (Sep 23, 2003)

*Re: Glazed my brakes?? (bruzer2000)*

Thanks for the reply.
I pulled all the pads, sanded them down. Actually, I ground them down a bit with my driveway's exposed aggregate concrete and then used 150grit sandpaper to smooth things out a bit.
Used 150grit sandpaper and used a circular motion while rotating the rotor by hand. Rinsed everything with brake cleaner. Slapped it all together. No time for rebedding. So we'll see what happens this morning on my way to work.
I suppose it's going to take 500-1000 miles for the pad surface to wear enough to have full contact with the rotors.
As a side note: I noticed that some of the pads were cracked. Guess they just don't like too much heat.


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## traffic (Sep 23, 2003)

*Re: Glazed my brakes?? (traffic)*

Ok, so a little update.
My pads are toast. I tried the sandpaper trick and no good. Also, I believe 4 or 5 pads are cracked. Man, I really toasted them.
Ordered up new Zimmerman 12.3" plain rotors and Ate rear plain rotors. Plus PBR Ultimate Ceramic.
I can say that with only 30 miles on the clock so far, my braking has improved 200%. No longer do I have to do leg presses to get moderate to heavy braking.
Pads are being chucked. Hopefully I can get some of the pix that Eggroller took of the pads. Existing rotors will get sanded and make ready for track day.


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## AutoXMan (Aug 7, 2002)

1) Always follow the manufacturers' recommendation on breaking in. No one procedure works best for all products. And no one knows more about their product than the manufacturer does. 
2) Just get your old rotors turned. Sanding will have mixed results and is only a last resort.


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## eggroller (May 25, 2000)

*Re: Glazed my brakes?? (traffic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *traffic* »_My pads are toast. I tried the sandpaper trick and no good. Also, I believe 4 or 5 pads are cracked. Man, I really toasted them.
Pads are being chucked. Hopefully I can get some of the pix that Eggroller took of the pads. Existing rotors will get sanded and make ready for track day.


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## traffic (Sep 23, 2003)

*Re: Glazed my brakes?? (eggroller)*

Wow, you really captured the cracks very well with those pix, Ray.


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## traffic (Sep 23, 2003)

*Re: (AutoXMan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AutoXMan* »_1) Always follow the manufacturers' recommendation on breaking in. No one procedure works best for all products. And no one knows more about their product than the manufacturer does. 
2) Just get your old rotors turned. Sanding will have mixed results and is only a last resort. 

Ha, finally found bedding procedures by PBR.

_Quote, originally posted by *PBRPerformance.com* »_*Q. Bedding in: what is involved?*
*A. Bedding in, or burnishing,* is usually done by conducting a number of medium level stops with sufficient distance between them so that the brake temperature at the start of the stop does not become too high (e.g. 100-120oC lining temperature at the start of the stop). 
When testing at PBR we conduct *200 stops *from 65km/h at 0.4g with an initial brake temperature of 120oC. That equates to about one stop every kilometre. The purpose of burnishing is to have the lining wear to match with the rotor and to deposit a film of the lining material onto the rotor to stabilise performance. 

200 is a lot of stops


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## Turbozo (Nov 17, 2005)

Not to thread jack but it seems to be in line with the conversation...
Now, what do you do when you have to break in new front and rear, and the compounds and companies are different?


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: (Turbozo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Turbozo* »_Not to thread jack but it seems to be in line with the conversation...
Now, what do you do when you have to break in new front and rear, and the compounds and companies are different?









Bed the axle with the tougher requirement first - typically front axle - then install the rear axle and follow the rear bedding procedure.
But for me (Ferodo DS2500/Hawk HPS), I just did both axels at once since the two bedding procedures were fairly similar.
And holy crap Paul, you weren't kidding about beating the crap out of those pads!!! Those look almost as bad as my OEM pads after my first track day!



_Modified by phatvw at 11:48 PM 5-1-2006_


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## AutoXMan (Aug 7, 2002)

*Re: (traffic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *traffic* »_200 is a lot of stops









That isn't the bedding procedure - that's how they TEST. Not the same thing.


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