# Ques. regarding replacing the banjo bolt on rear caliper



## Jon718 (Aug 14, 2007)

*Ques. regarding replacing the banjo bolt on rear caliper on MKIV Jetta*

I'll try and be brief and to the point about my brake situation:
So recently I had to replace the rear caliper on my MKIV Jetta. I installed the new caliper and discovered the 2 copper washers that came with the rebuilt caliper would not fit over the old banjo bolt that connects to the hydraulic line. 
I ended up reusing the old washers and noticed it would leak a little. 
Because VW does not sell these washers individually, I ended up purchasing a new brake line (that comes with a new banjo bolt and 2 new washers). However, the washer that come with the banjo bolt are stuck to the new bolt thus preventing me from removing the bolt/washers from the new line. 
I am wondering if I should just yank the washer out and slip the new bolt and new washers it into my old brake line or replace the entire thing? It seems like more headache to remove the old line and risk damaging the threads to me... 

Thanks all!
_Modified by Jon718 at 10:06 PM 10-6-2009_


_Modified by Jon718 at 10:07 PM 10-6-2009_


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## macmanjim (Mar 14, 2010)

*Re: Ques. regarding replacing the banjo bolt on rear caliper on MKIV Jetta (Jon718)*

I have the same problem currently. I tried removing the old washers and I munged the banjo bolt. F#$%! I am no neophyte and I have to say I am perplexed. It would seem that VW wants the hose and the caliper replaced together and the washers are not serviceable. The washers that came with the caliper won't fit at all and I reamed one of them for sh!ts and giggles and when I did get it over, it would seat right as the bolt has a raised base. I don't know who I am more pissed at, AutoZone or VW. My Jetta is a 2001 2.0. GL. So what did you end up doing?


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## macmanjim (Mar 14, 2010)

*Re: Ques. regarding replacing the banjo bolt on rear caliper on MKIV Jetta (macmanjim)*

I guess my question should be, how much were the brake lines and did the dealer have then in stock? Where I live, we have one VW dealer in town and the other is 120 miles away. I miss living on Long Island where parts availability was better for foreign vehicles, whether from the dealer or parts stores. In Iowa, if it isn't HD, GM, Ford or Chrysler, you might have a hard time finding parts depending what it is. It's like a damn time warp. I miss Colvin Auto parts, but I understand they aren't around anymore. Thanks for posting this, I appreciate it.


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

*Re: Ques. regarding replacing the banjo bolt on rear caliper on MKIV Jetta (Jon718)*

Return the new brake line to the VW Dealer, and go to your local NAPA Auto Parts Store with the old washers and banjo bolt. Ask to see their crush washer assortment. Pick out something that will fit. The crush washers are cheap.
Your old ones leak because they're already curshed, and they are single use parts.


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## macmanjim (Mar 14, 2010)

*Re: Ques. regarding replacing the banjo bolt on rear caliper on MKIV Jetta (germancarnut51)*

The Banjo washers don't come off, at least not without turning the banjo bolt and in the process, the threads gets screwed up. I've never seen this with other cars I have worked on.


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## macmanjim (Mar 14, 2010)

*Re: Ques. regarding replacing the banjo bolt on rear caliper on MKIV Jetta (germancarnut51)*

Just back from the dealer. This is the story: The washers on the brake line are not aluminum but mild steel. They are not to be serviced, and if you try to take them off, the threads will be screwed up as I found out. The washers are meant to be reused, and if it leaks, you replace the line. So, the aftermarket kit was incorrect in adding the washers. The autoparts store should have had a not about this as far as I am concerned, and the staff had no idea, but the state of service jobs in this country is such that we have idiots in service now, but I digress. Short answer is if you are replacing the caliper, reuse the washers/line, if it leaks, replace it. The damage was $52 a side and they had it in stock. Now I am off to put it in.


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

*Re: Ques. regarding replacing the banjo bolt on rear caliper on MKIV Jetta (macmanjim)*

So why not get aftermarket replacement banjo bolts, and use copper crush washers so the banjo bolts are not ruined each time you undo the lines?
That way you aren't forced to buy new hoses from VW each time you take the lines off. I can't believe that VW expects you to replace the hoses if you disconnect the calipers. What's more, I can't believe that the metal washers will seal properly unless they are aluminum or coper crush washers, and those type of soft washers will not damage a steel banjo bolts.
And just how is a steel washer supposed to seal properly?


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## macmanjim (Mar 14, 2010)

*Re: Ques. regarding replacing the banjo bolt on rear caliper on MKIV Jetta (germancarnut51)*

I couldn't find an aftermarket banjo bolts. VW uses a screwy thread pitch. The idea is you don't have to screw any thing up. Reuse the bolt and washers. If it leaks, replace the line. You won't have to replace the line every time you take it apart. Mine worked fine. Just make sure it's clean and you torque it to 28ft/lbs. Again, VW uses a mild steel, not copper or aluminum. You'll have to ask their engineers as to why.


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## JettaBuff (Oct 25, 2003)

Resurrecting an old thread with some information since I just did this 20m ago to replace a caliper who's parking brake mechanism had seized (I have a manual).

Indeed the 2 Banjo washers are some kind of soft steel that didn't look like it deformed much but likely relies on the flat surfaces of the Banjo to make a tight seal. My rebuilt caliper came with a new Banjo bolt and copper crush washers and after trying to simply move the old bolt+steel washers over to new caliper I didn't get a good feeling about the threads lining up so I decided to twist and break the steel washer (and ruin the threads on the old bolt) and move the Banjo to the new hardware and all works fine with no leaks. If you score the surface of the Banjo and are concerned that the crush washer won't seal (like me) then you can lightly sand the surface with some wet sandpaper dipped in brake fluid and them flush with more fluid. The line will be dipping as you do this which is fine since it ensures no specks will get in the system.


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