# How to convert from push button switch to euroswitch



## Speeddemon23 (May 26, 2015)

I have Spyder foglights installed on my 2011 Jetta and have purchased the Euroswitch so I can have one switch for all lights. Right now I am using a push button switch that turns the fogs off or on. It connected using a 3 prong connector that has a red, white, and black wire going into it. I tested each wire using a test light and the red wire is the only wire that lights up the test light. I want to know if anyone has ever converted from a push button switch to the euro switch. I also have purchased the trigger wire but it does not fit into the wire housing as the others due to some clip not being there. Any help would be appreciated.


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

Speeddemon23 said:


> I have Spyder foglights installed on my 2011 Jetta and have purchased the Euroswitch so I can have one switch for all lights. Right now I am using a push button switch that turns the fogs off or on. It connected using a 3 prong connector that has a red, white, and black wire going into it. I tested each wire using a test light and the red wire is the only wire that lights up the test light. I want to know if anyone has ever converted from a push button switch to the euro switch. I also have purchased the trigger wire but it does not fit into the wire housing as the others due to some clip not being there. Any help would be appreciated.


have you had a chance to look at the installation guide provided by ECS tuning? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assembled-by-ecs-parts/fog-light-kit/5c6998001/

It gives you the pin # for the trigger wire. If your trigger wire doesn't fit into that harness, then you might want to compare the trigger wire with some of the other wires to see if the trigger wire is the right one.



Peter


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## Speeddemon23 (May 26, 2015)

gugu1981 said:


> have you had a chance to look at the installation guide provided by ECS tuning? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assembled-by-ecs-parts/fog-light-kit/5c6998001/
> 
> It gives you the pin # for the trigger wire. If your trigger wire doesn't fit into that harness, then you might want to compare the trigger wire with some of the other wires to see if the trigger wire is the right one.
> 
> ...


I did look at this but my issue is the trying to eliminate the aftermarket switch and hook it up to the euro switch. I have the push button switch that has 3 wires a red/power white/accessory and the black/ground. I was messing with the wiring yesterday and could only get the fog's on using the switch when I plugged the ground to ground, red to slot 16 to feed off of power and the yellow trigger wire to slot 8. The switch only turned it on when the headlights were on, not when I pulled it once to rightfully trigger the fog light function 

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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

Speeddemon23 said:


> I did look at this but my issue is the trying to eliminate the aftermarket switch and hook it up to the euro switch. I have the push button switch that has 3 wires a red/power white/accessory and the black/ground. I was messing with the wiring yesterday and could only get the fog's on using the switch when I plugged the ground to ground, red to slot 16 to feed off of power and the yellow trigger wire to slot 8. The switch only turned it on when the headlights were on, not when I pulled it once to rightfully trigger the fog light function
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


The wiring kits that I have seen all have relay and fuse holder, and the instructions say to have the power wire directly off of the battery. So if your fog light harness also have relay and fuse, then I would say move that wire to the battery and see. I suspect slot 16 on your switch is main headlight power, so if you use that as the power source, the fog lights won't come on until headlights are on.


Peter


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## Speeddemon23 (May 26, 2015)

gugu1981 said:


> The wiring kits that I have seen all have relay and fuse holder, and the instructions say to have the power wire directly off of the battery. So if your fog light harness also have relay and fuse, then I would say move that wire to the battery and see. I suspect slot 16 on your switch is main headlight power, so if you use that as the power source, the fog lights won't come on until headlights are on.
> 
> 
> Peter












This is what I have. The relay has 4 prongs coming out. Mine does have a fuse and relay hooked into it. You are right about 16 it I only activates when headlights are on that's why I disconnected it since that is not the way it should function.


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

does that switch light up? Otherwise, I don't understand why it would have 3 wires.

I am by no means an electrical expert, so take the following information with a grain of salt. 
I am *guessing* that the red "parking light" wire is to allow the switch to light up, and that's what the red wire to the switch is. If so, all of that can be bypassed, and all you need is to disconnect that plug from the switch, hook that black wire to the chassis for ground, and hook up the white wire to the trigger wire.


Peter


EDIT:
or... according to this page http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/SPST-rocker-switch-wiring.php

the red wire from "Parking light" actually provides the power/signal, and when the switch is in the "on" position, it powers the white wire, which kicks on the relay, and that turns on the lights. In either case, the hookup should be the same as what I said originally: white wire to trigger wire, black to chassis ground.


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## Speeddemon23 (May 26, 2015)

gugu1981 said:


> does that switch light up? Otherwise, I don't understand why it would have 3 wires.
> 
> I am by no means an electrical expert, so take the following information with a grain of salt.
> I am *guessing* that the red "parking light" wire is to allow the switch to light up, and that's what the red wire to the switch is. If so, all of that can be bypassed, and all you need is to disconnect that plug from the switch, hook that black wire to the chassis for ground, and hook up the white wire to the trigger wire.
> ...


I will try that and see if it works using 2 wires instead of 3. So you are saying to eliminate the red wire and use black to ground and white to trigger correct? You don't have to be an electrical expert, you have been helpful. I will let you know.


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

Speeddemon23 said:


> I will try that and see if it works using 2 wires instead of 3. So you are saying to eliminate the red wire and use black to ground and white to trigger correct? You don't have to be an electrical expert, you have been helpful. I will let you know.


Does the red wire at the switch go to the red "Parking Light" wire on the far right of that picture? If so, I think that should be right then (also, look at my edit above, which changes the explanation, but doesn't change the way to hook it up). Good luck with it.


Peter


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## Speeddemon23 (May 26, 2015)

gugu1981 said:


> Does the red wire at the switch go to the red "Parking Light" wire on the far right of that picture? If so, I think that should be right then (also, look at my edit above, which changes the explanation, but doesn't change the way to hook it up). Good luck with it.
> 
> 
> Peter


I looked over your edit above and it makes sense. The hookup with the red wire is one part positive battery connection, one part fuse then one part going to the push switch


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## gugu1981 (Jul 25, 2011)

Speeddemon23 said:


> I looked over your edit above and it makes sense. The hookup with the red wire is one part positive battery connection, one part fuse then one part going to the push switch


I'm only specifically interested in the red wire coming out of the switch, where does that go? It shouldn't go directly to the battery/fuse (that part should be from another pin out of the relay), otherwise your parking light would be constantly on until the battery is drained.

Peter


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## Speeddemon23 (May 26, 2015)

gugu1981 said:


> I'm only specifically interested in the red wire coming out of the switch, where does that go? It shouldn't go directly to the battery/fuse (that part should be from another pin out of the relay), otherwise your parking light would be constantly on until the battery is drained.
> 
> Peter


It's been I stalled for a few years now so know it's not draining the battery. I would go do a trace of wire but raining outside.


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## Speeddemon23 (May 26, 2015)

gugu1981 said:


> I'm only specifically interested in the red wire coming out of the switch, where does that go? It shouldn't go directly to the battery/fuse (that part should be from another pin out of the relay), otherwise your parking light would be constantly on until the battery is drained.
> 
> Peter


It still not working. The red wire I do think powers the switch. I don't see where the red wire goes to the parking light though


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## Speeddemon23 (May 26, 2015)

gugu1981 said:


> I'm only specifically interested in the red wire coming out of the switch, where does that go? It shouldn't go directly to the battery/fuse (that part should be from another pin out of the relay), otherwise your parking light would be constantly on until the battery is drained.
> 
> Peter


I traced the wires and found that the red wire that was suppose to go to the parking switch hooked up to the battery. I moved that to a positive parking light since I do not know where the positive parking main wire is. I hooked the black to ground and tried the white and red wire to port 8 for the fog but no luck. I am positive that the white wire is for the trigger wire but the red wire not sure where to put it


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## Speeddemon23 (May 26, 2015)

Speeddemon23 said:


> I traced the wires and found that the red wire that was suppose to go to the parking switch hooked up to the battery. I moved that to a positive parking light since I do not know where the positive parking main wire is. I hooked the black to ground and tried the white and red wire to port 8 for the fog but no luck. I am positive that the white wire is for the trigger wire but the red wire not sure where to put it


I figured it out. The red wire that was suppose to be going to the positive parking switch was in fact connected to the battery. I moved that wire to a lead on the positive parking light on the left. That does it for under the hood. Now for the inside of the car wiring to remove the aftermarket switch to a euro switch. I cut the 3 prong connector off and reused the same wires to run to the headlight switch harness. The red wire goes to slot 2, the white wire goes to slot 8 for triggering the foglights, and the black wire goes to slot 10 for ground.


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## Speeddemon23 (May 26, 2015)

Speeddemon23 said:


> I figured it out. The red wire that was suppose to be going to the positive parking switch was in fact connected to the battery. I moved that wire to a lead on the positive parking light on the left. That does it for under the hood. Now for the inside of the car wiring to remove the aftermarket switch to a euro switch. I cut the 3 prong connector off and reused the same wires to run to the headlight switch harness. The red wire goes to slot 2, the white wire goes to slot 8 for triggering the foglights, and the black wire goes to slot 10 for ground.


Out with the old and on with new. And by the way my high beams when on do not turn off my fog lights like in another post on the forum.







old

New


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## amancuso (Jul 23, 2011)

So you moved the red wire from the relay (the one with the inline fuse) to the parking light instead of the battery? 


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## Speeddemon23 (May 26, 2015)

amancuso said:


> So you moved the red wire from the relay (the one with the inline fuse) to the parking light instead of the battery?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes. It suppose to go to my parking light positive. Read over all my post to realize exactly what I did


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## amancuso (Jul 23, 2011)

Ok our set up is slightly different. We don't have a red connector down by the light plugs. This is what we've got. Currently we do not have the aftermarket switch wired to illuminate. We just connected the white and black wires to it.







. I'm guessing we should just put the white wire to pin 8 then black to ground?


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## Speeddemon23 (May 26, 2015)

Going by this layout it looks like you just have a red and white for the switch.

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## Speeddemon23 (May 26, 2015)

amancuso said:


> Ok our set up is slightly different. We don't have a red connector down by the light plugs. This is what we've got. Currently we do not have the aftermarket switch wired to illuminate. We just connected the white and black wires to it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Black would go to ground and white to slot 8 on the euroswitch


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## amancuso (Jul 23, 2011)

Speeddemon23 said:


> Black would go to ground and white to slot 8 on the euroswitch


Thanks, I'll post the results tomorrow evening after we give it a shot.


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## Speeddemon23 (May 26, 2015)

amancuso said:


> Thanks, I'll post the results tomorrow evening after we give it a shot.


Ok


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## Speeddemon23 (May 26, 2015)

amancuso said:


> Thanks, I'll post the results tomorrow evening after we give it a shot.


Well after finding out my cruise control stopped working I went digging back to what I did last, my euroswitch. I checked all my fuses in the car and one 20 ATC fuse was blown. I guess I have to see about my wiring on this setup since when replacing the fuse causes a bulb out dash light indicator to turn on after systems check. The fog's work fine but I put the blown fuse back in so the I indicator stays off. I'll have to figure out what's plugged in wrong to say that. I thought I was done but after finding that blown fuse it seems the journey continues.


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## Speeddemon23 (May 26, 2015)

Speeddemon23 said:


> Well after finding out my cruise control stopped working I went digging back to what I did last, my euroswitch. I checked all my fuses in the car and one 20 ATC fuse was blown. I guess I have to see about my wiring on this setup since when replacing the fuse causes a bulb out dash light indicator to turn on after systems check. The fog's work fine but I put the blown fuse back in so the I indicator stays off. I'll have to figure out what's plugged in wrong to say that. I thought I was done but after finding that blown fuse it seems the journey continues.


I figured it out after removing some wires and rewiring to be almost identical as a diagram I found online which infact works perfectly and my fuse that blew ,now replaced doesn't blow on startup.


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