# Cam adjuster oil rings



## ZapAuto (Sep 3, 2009)

*Cam adjuster oil rings (Solved)*

So I'm working on a customer's 06 Jetta with the 2.0T. I go to put the cam chain cover back on, and when I start to tighten the bolts I hear a snapping sound.




























So that tube sticking out of the inside of the timing chain cover goes into the camshaft adjuster. The sealing ring that I broke allows the adjuster solenoid to send different oil pressures to the different chambers inside the adjuster. So just replace that little oil ring right? Easy.

I called the dealer, and apparently the only way you can buy these oil sealing rings is in a whole kit that includes the adjuster and the chain cover, and my cost is over $800.

Anyone out there know if it's possible to buy these rings separate from the dealer? Or if there's anyone in the aftermarket that makes them? Any help would be appreciated.


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## mpax (May 16, 2001)

mine were rubber, i used some viton power steering sealing rings for a ford, they stretch over and come back to size very well. I had no luck finding them either, unless maybe they would be included in a cylinder head gasket set


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## Michael W Dane (Feb 23, 2013)

*PM me your address and*

I will send you a ring off from my broken cover.


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## ZapAuto (Sep 3, 2009)

I ended up having a machine shop make another ring for me, I'll post pics later. Thanks for the help!


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## Bo Toichi (Jan 15, 2013)

I have had that happen upon removal of that cover. Yes the rings are not sold seperately. Be careful,those rings are plastic and the cam adjuster spins AROUND them,so the plastic gives it lubricity,if you use a metal ring it may have too much friction and cause other problems. 
We found one on here used from a blown motor for $200.00. 
Look around,and you can find them. Total idiot design though..........plastic "rings" that snap when you breathe on them.......lol.


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## Sniped43 (Mar 30, 2009)

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I've got a mechanic working on my car that ran into this issue. He told me it'd be 700 bucks for the part but obviously I don't want to pay that considering I'm already paying for a very expensive repair as it is and he's taken almost 2 weeks to get to this point of almost done.

I'm having a HELL of a time trying to source a used WHOLE housing....

So, my main question is, how did a machine shop make you one? And how much did it cost?

Thanks,

Chris


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## Millennium Falcon (Jan 29, 2004)

I think my tuner has one laying around for cheap. His name is john

text him @ six 3 one 3 seven 4 twenty-seven forty-three


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## Sniped43 (Mar 30, 2009)

I'm looking for a more local solution as my mechanic is withholding my car until its replaced. A really ****ty situation. Thats why a machine shop would be really helpful. I just don't understand how that works.

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## Sniped43 (Mar 30, 2009)

Does anyone have any idea if these housings can be pulled apart to even put on new rings? Or would they have to be molded on? I guess that's my first concern. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## Michael W Dane (Feb 23, 2013)

*Here is one?*

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-AUDI-2-0...Motors_Aviation_Parts_Gear&hash=item1c35f903d


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## dkrants (Apr 14, 2014)

ZapAuto, thanks a lot for this thread!

After replacing my cam chain tensioner I started to get P000A/P0010 trouble codes. I had no clue why it was happening (I was initially blaming N205 valve, then possibly missing a tooth on a cam chain) up until I've found this thread which immediately pointed me to the right direction. I recalled seeing parts of this ring when putting my cam housing back on.

My original housing was 06F-103-107-P and had these brittle plastic rings. I managed to get a used one off eBay for $200 (06F-103-107-H), which has these rings made of steel. 
The steel rings (if you manage to get spare ones) are actually replaceable, but if you break plastic ones you definitely need to buy a new housing assembly. 

Some people above recommended rubber/viton rings as a replacement. I'm not sure how well it would work since the material needs to be low-friction because it constantly slides against the interior of the adjuster sprocket as it rotates.


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## Devo567 (May 28, 2007)

I'm happy we have located the most idiotic part on this car :banghead: glad I read this before I went to pulling head, cams, and valves. New adjuster now will be sourced with a newer revision. Thank you dk for the part numbers


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## mattA3 (Feb 24, 2010)

So are the newer revisions with the G and H in the part number? Where is the part number on the cover? I want to check to see which revision I have before I pull this apart. From what I read above If I already have the G or H revision I will not need to replace the cover.

Thanks


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## vwisthebest (Sep 17, 2003)

Is there a proper way or trick to install the cover so the plastic rings do not break?

I have a spare cover just in case I need it, but don't want to break either if there is some trick to install. I'll be happy to sell my spare cover should I not need it. 

Thanks!


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## allenlin (Jul 21, 2006)

mattA3 said:


> So are the newer revisions with the G and H in the part number? Where is the part number on the cover?
> Thanks


You can see the part number in the red circle. This is the H version.


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## Bo Toichi (Jan 15, 2013)

The way to install these is the clean out the inside boreof the cam and get rid of the oil residue "ridges,I use a scotch brit pad,and then I use a liquid assembly lube (oil is fine) and coat the rings,make SURE you install the piston into the bore of the camshaft hydo adjuster STRAIGHT IN and not cockeyed or you WILL brake those rings!! I also rotate/rock the cover assembly back and forth while lightly pressing it into the camshaft and that is my secret to success. I have rebuilt 4 heads on these cars and that works every time. what sucks with this CRAP design is that over time ridges form on the insode bore of the cam adjuster and when you remove the end cover the dried up oil ridges catch and break the plastic rings upon removal!


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## scribnj (Sep 3, 2014)

*Rebuild kit with metal rings*

Here is the rebuild kit that includes the 3 metal rings. Does anyone know why these would not work in place of the plastic rings?

Part number 06f-198-107-a

http://www.audizine.com/forum/class...&p[username]=Unregistered&p[vbemail]=&frame=1


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## vwisthebest (Sep 17, 2003)

My original cover had the plastic rings, but I successfully re-installed it without any issues or broken rings.

I didn't clean the inside bore of the cam adjuster or use any oil on parts. I just took the original cover off, replaced chain and tensioner, then slowly put the cover back on. I kind of jiggled the cover as I was putting it in place to make sure the rings would not get caught on anything. I made sure the cover sat fully flush against the cylinder head before I starting putting the bolts back on. Last thing you want to do is tighten down the bolts as a means of bringing the cover flush with the cylinder head. That's just asking to break something by slowly 'forcing' the parts together. My original cover had the plastic rings and I did the chain replacement at 174,000 miles. No parts were broken or issues putting back together.

I guess my point is, *if you're thinking about doing the job, don't let concern over these rings stop you from doing it*. That said, I was relieved to have a spare chain cover just in case I needed it. If you want to be prepared, get a spare cover to have on standby. Now that I'm down, I'm selling my spare - HERE


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## loach1 (Aug 15, 2008)

A good friend of mine owns Beisan Systems, the original BMW Vanos sealing ring repair gurus. It looks like the FSI sealing rings are very similar, made from Teflon, so I asked him if he would be willing to help research and manufacture replacements.

I'm not very familiar with the FSI variations, but it appears that these plastic rings were used for a short period of time, then an improved version was made with metal rings. To help with business case, can anyone tell me how long the plastic ring version of the cover was in production?

It takes a while to select the right compound for these rings, or some investment to have originals tested for content, so I want to be as persuasive as I can. Once the material has been nailed down, the manufacturing can happen quite quickly. Does anyone have a used ring that they could spare for the cause?

BTW, on the BMW, the rings wear over time and performance is lost. It's such a gradual thing that the owners don't notice until the car starts to stall or throw codes. The same might be true in the FSI, if pressure is bleeding by the sealing rings, the valve adjustment will not be as effective as it once was. 

Cheers,
David


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## scribnj (Sep 3, 2014)

Hi David,

My car is a 2006 Jetta with 2.0T FSI engine and it has the plastic rings. The cam chain cover has part number 06f103530P and from what I understand, they went to metal rings once they the part number chanced to 06f103530G but not sure how many years between. I can send you one of my broken rings so you can use it to test the material. Just send me your address and I will drop it in the mail. I talked to the local VW dealer and he said they break all the time when they pull the cover so I think you could make a lot of money if you could provide and aftermarket replacement.

Jeff


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## ronbrent (Oct 4, 2014)

*Broken or missing ? Cam adjuster rings*

I just found this thread and find it strange that I had not found another posting stating P codes P0010 and P0011 could be caused if you had recently had the camshaft adjuster housing off. I had to due a total rebuild of our 2007 BWT. wit Starting the engine I received the code P0010. I cleared the code and received the P0011 code. Making me think I screwed up timing belt timing or cam shaft timing. Not wanting to remove the head again I ordered all new parts that are inside the camshaft adjuster housing, plus a new NP205. Cleaning the housings mounting surface I noticed the part that the oil sealing rings mount on. The center area looked different. I then figured with out the center sealing ring was missing and the camshaft adjuster would not work without it. When I found this thread it became obvious, that I had just spent $500 when $60 would have worked. The part numbers for just the sealing rings is 06F 198 107 A. A far cry from the $600 plus for the complete. Should anyone have something they would like to add please do and correct any incorrect statements.


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## sho2k86 (Oct 9, 2014)

*P000A CEL code*

I recently opened this cover to check if the broken piece Cam follower was lying around there. Since then I have gotten this code. I had the plastic one. I have 2006 vw passat 2.0T. My question is, can I use the metal ring instead of the plastic ring? And if not, what are my options? How can I change to the metal rings? Do I need to buy a new adjuster as well if I wanna upgrade to the metal rings? and Last question, is it safe to drive the car?


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## ShadowofBob (Jan 15, 2007)

Does anyone here have a extra housing? I took mine off to find a broken ring when doing the cam chain adjuster.:banghead: 

My housing looks to be toast as well as I see some sort of chewed up metal by the ring at the bottom of stack that broke. I tried putting the broken ring on and it won't spin when it gets to to marred area. Is a G interchangeable with an H?


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## ShadowofBob (Jan 15, 2007)

Bo Toichi said:


> The way to install these is the clean out the inside boreof the cam and get rid of the oil residue "ridges,I use a scotch brit pad,and then I use a liquid assembly lube (oil is fine) and coat the rings,make SURE you install the piston into the bore of the camshaft hydo adjuster STRAIGHT IN and not cockeyed or you WILL brake those rings!! I also rotate/rock the cover assembly back and forth while lightly pressing it into the camshaft and that is my secret to success. I have rebuilt 4 heads on these cars and that works every time. what sucks with this CRAP design is that over time ridges form on the insode bore of the cam adjuster and when you remove the end cover the dried up oil ridges catch and break the plastic rings upon removal!


I understand what you mean, but I found that upon inspecting my adjuster that the ridges are actually worn grooves in the adjuster metal itself and aren't dried up oil making ridges. How much wear is acceptable?

This new unit has no grooves at all.










Look at how worn mine is. You can easily feel these grooves and they are severe enough that they probably caught the ring and broke it on removal or install.


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## ShadowofBob (Jan 15, 2007)

Did anyone else notice the shape of their cam adjuster/variator when they did their cam chain tensioner? I am a bit worried that this wear is excessive for a 71k engine. It did have the HPFP and cam replaced at some point prior to my ownership, under warranty I assume. I hope this isn't a sign of wear from excessive shavings/metal in the oil because if it is I'd be concerned about the rod or main bearings.


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## vwisthebest (Sep 17, 2003)

My adjuster unit did not have those grooves when I did my chain/tensioner at 170,000 miles for the first time. I have an early '06 build GTI, with the PLASTIC rings. *Did yours have the metal or plastic rings?* I would suspect that the metal rings could possibly make those grooves, but not plastic. The plastic would wear down first. It could also be possible that those grooves were intentionally put there on certain build dates for the adjusters ??? Just a thought.


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## ShadowofBob (Jan 15, 2007)

vwisthebest said:


> My adjuster unit did not have those grooves when I did my chain/tensioner at 170,000 miles for the first time. I have an early '06 build GTI, with the PLASTIC rings. *Did yours have the metal or plastic rings?* I would suspect that the metal rings could possibly make those grooves, but not plastic. The plastic would wear down first. It could also be possible that those grooves were intentionally put there on certain build dates for the adjusters ??? Just a thought.


Mine did have the metal rings. Aren't those rings supposed to be fairly locked down in the variator/adjuster so that they spin with it while creating the seal for the oil passages? If the diameter increases via these grooves the rings won't be able to create as tight a seal. I don't think these are put on there for any specific build date and the part number that Audi/VW gives for all 2.0T engines is pictured as smooth like above. There would be no reason to have those grooves as it would put unnecessary stress on the rings when removing the cam chain cover.


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## vwisthebest (Sep 17, 2003)

ShadowofBob said:


> Mine did have the metal rings. Aren't those rings supposed to be fairly locked down in the variator/adjuster so that they spin with it while creating the seal for the oil passages? If the diameter increases via these grooves the rings won't be able to create as tight a seal. I don't think these are put on there for any specific build date and the part number that Audi/VW gives for all 2.0T engines is pictured as smooth like above. There would be no reason to have those grooves as it would put unnecessary stress on the rings when removing the cam chain cover.


If what you say about change in part number and no new part revisions, I suspect the grooves are wear. Being that you had the metal rings, I'd say they're the cause. I have 2.5 times the mileage and no grooves at all on mine. That makes me happy mine had the plastic rings. I had no issue with the plastic rings when I swapped in the new tensioner, so I put back on my original housing and have been good for another 7,000 miles already.

I have no clue what type of disadvantage the grooves are causing or if they increase risk of a failure. If I were you, I'd try to source a used, undamaged timing adjuster and a housing cover with the plastic rings. Or maybe just source the plastic rings if you can find them. I sold my spar housing to a guy and he took one of the plastic rings off mine and put it on his housing to replace a broken one, so that procedure can be done.


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## ShadowofBob (Jan 15, 2007)

vwisthebest said:


> If what you say about change in part number and no new part revisions, I suspect the grooves are wear. Being that you had the metal rings, I'd say they're the cause. I have 2.5 times the mileage and no grooves at all on mine. That makes me happy mine had the plastic rings. I had no issue with the plastic rings when I swapped in the new tensioner, so I put back on my original housing and have been good for another 7,000 miles already.
> 
> I have no clue what type of disadvantage the grooves are causing or if they increase risk of a failure. If I were you, I'd try to source a used, undamaged timing adjuster and a housing cover with the plastic rings. Or maybe just source the plastic rings if you can find them. I sold my spar housing to a guy and he took one of the plastic rings off mine and put it on his housing to replace a broken one, so that procedure can be done.


I am not sure its a direct result of having metal rings, maybe debris in the oil, or a combination of both. Prior to my ownership the cam and fuel pump were replaced under warranty. I ended up buying a new cam adjuster and cam chain cover. I'll let you know what the rings are made of when I get my parts in. The newest available revision of the cam chain cover ends in G.


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## vwisthebest (Sep 17, 2003)

Whatever the case with your housing, I have a cam adjuster from my spare engine if you're interested. No groove damage in it - it had the plastic rings in the cover.


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## ShadowofBob (Jan 15, 2007)

vwisthebest said:


> Whatever the case with your housing, I have a cam adjuster from my spare engine if you're interested. No groove damage in it - it had the plastic rings in the cover.


Thanks for the offer but I've already ordered the replacement parts as I need to get my car out of my friend's shop ASAP so it's not taking up space. I did find out this weekend that there is a kit that includes the Cam adjuster, cam chain cover and gasket for less than all these parts sell for separately though! I would have saved $50 and had the parts much sooner had I ordered even with the prices I got my parts at, but over list I think the savings are closer to $150.

The part number for the kit is: 06F198088D
At the moment it is ~$630 for the kit from online parts sellers.

Hopefully that will help someone else out if they have to replace both adjuster and the cover. Seeing as there is an OEM kit for these parts I'm guessing I am not the only one with this problem.


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## thegolfman (May 14, 2008)

mpax said:


> mine were rubber, i used some viton power steering sealing rings for a ford, they stretch over and come back to size very well. I had no luck finding them either, unless maybe they would be included in a cylinder head gasket set


Do you remember what size rings you used?

Thanks


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## vwisthebest (Sep 17, 2003)

Selling my spare timing adjuster unit here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-Camshaft-Adjuster-Unit-Valve-Timing-Adjuster


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## rennsports (Oct 5, 2004)

*Spare Cover With 2 Good Rings For Sale*

I have a spare Camshaft Chain Cover Adjuster Housing that has two (2) good "Plastic" rings. It came out of a 2006 Passat with 80,000 miles on the odometer.

Which "Plastic" rings are good?

The ring on the very top of the shaft is good and the ring on the very bottom is also in tact. (The ring in the middle snapped - Which I still have)

(Use the 2 good plastic rings to replace your snapped ring)

If anyone would like to buy my cover PART NUMBER 06F 103 530 please send me a Private Message with an offer. 

WHAT? Camshaft Chain Cover Adjuster Housing with Plastic Rings (06F 103 530)
MILES? 80,000
WHERE? Shipped From Portland, Oregon
CONTACT? Please send me a PM
PRICE? Please make me a reasonable offer. 

(The image below is not of my cover, but one identical to it)


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## advash (Aug 27, 2002)

Just wanted to thank everyone for sharing the info above on these plastic pieces and the part # seems to be $40-60 online which is a lot for what they are but the entire part for $600 is crazy as well. I broke my N205 plastic electrical part my N205 but its still cheaper to buy the pieces. 

Thanks again. 
David


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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

Can these metal rings be used to replace the broken plastic rings or just to replace old metal rings? I need to replace my broken plastic rings, and am hoping I don't have to buy a complete new cover. 


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## spcski88 (Sep 13, 2010)

Out of all these people that have done this diy and all the knowledge in this tread, no one has anything on if you can use the metal rings to replace the broken plastic one? 
If anyone has could you please let us know. It would be really nice to be able to save 500 plus by buying the rings instead of a whole new housing.


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## vwisthebest (Sep 17, 2003)

Try it. You're just as qualified to give the answer as anyone else here


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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

Yeah, I'm going to try it. I ordered them from vwpartsoutlet.com and will install soon hopefully. I'll let you all know since no one else has said either way. 


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## GTIPoopy (Jan 27, 2016)

Hi,
I'm interested in the cover is this still available?


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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

I just got my order in from vwpartsoutlet.com and the rings are plastic, not metal. This is good news to me because I don't have to worry about compatibility with them replacing my broken plastic ones. I'll follow up again once I have the new rings installed. 


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## vwisthebest (Sep 17, 2003)

Thanks for the update. The guy that bought my spare, used housing used one of its plastic rings to replace one of his broken plastic rings. You shouldn't have any problems.


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## spcski88 (Sep 13, 2010)

So it there like a little slit in the rings to install them on the shaft?


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## spcski88 (Sep 13, 2010)

Any luck with the rings?


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## spcski88 (Sep 13, 2010)

Any luck with the rings?


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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

Well... I took the cover off yesterday, installed two of the new rings, and broke the third trying to get it on. 
These things are so delicate! I would recommend only replacing the broken ones if you have any intact. That way you have a spare in case you break one like I did. 

Here are the pics I took of the rings before install:










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## spcski88 (Sep 13, 2010)

Darn, is the 3rd pic of the ring that broke? How did you install the rings? Do they have a little slit on them to bend and place on the shaft? Good thing is that we now know that you can in fact replace just the rings. Feel sorry for the people that shelled out 500 bucks on a new housing. How's the car drive now? CEL gone?


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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

spcski88 said:


> Darn, is the 3rd pic of the ring that broke? How did you install the rings? Do they have a little slit on them to bend and place on the shaft? Good thing is that we now know that you can in fact replace just the rings. Feel sorry for the people that shelled out 500 bucks on a new housing. How's the car drive now? CEL gone?


The third pic is just showing the split in the ring, that is how you install them. They slip over the shaft and into the grooves, but you have to be very careful or they will snap, as mine did. 

Because all three of mine were broken I had to order more to replace the one I snapped. So I'm not sure that this will fix my CEL. :/


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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

spcski88 said:


> Darn, is the 3rd pic of the ring that broke? How did you install the rings? Do they have a little slit on them to bend and place on the shaft? Good thing is that we now know that you can in fact replace just the rings. Feel sorry for the people that shelled out 500 bucks on a new housing. How's the car drive now? CEL gone?


The third pic is just showing the split in the ring, that is how you install them. They slip over the shaft and into the grooves, but you have to be very careful or they will snap, as mine did. 

Because all three of mine were broken I had to order more to replace the one I snapped. So I'm not sure that this will fix my CEL. :/


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## vwisthebest (Sep 17, 2003)

Zoom in on the first pic. The left ring you can see the slit at 7 o'clock

Sorry to hear you're having trouble. I'll probably order a set of the rings if I ever do my cam chain again.

Just a reminder to people... high mileage doesn't necessarily mean broken plastic rings. At 170,000 miles all my original plastic rings were intact. The trick is to be extremely careful when removing the housing. Don't pull it. Just jiggle it lightly and slowly back it straight away from the head (no tilting) so none of the rings catch on the inside of the timing adjuster unit.


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## spcski88 (Sep 13, 2010)

Ah okay I see it now. I'm kinda relived now because I thought all my rings were snapped because they have this slit. Turns out its just one. Sorry to hear you have to get more. I'm gonna go ahead and order mine. It is a bitch to pull that housing out straight. I'm sure I'll break more putting it in. I think I'll just buy 9 of these rings. What a ****ty design.


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## vwisthebest (Sep 17, 2003)

I wouldn't say it's a ****ty design. The part was never intended to be removed. Cam chain and tensioner are intended to be a 'lifetime part', even if every car enthusiast out there knows there's no such thing as a lifetime part. That is why each of us knows plenty of people that won't drive a car with over 100,000 miles. These are the types of maintenance requirements one should expect on high mileage or older vehicles, if that's what they choose to drive.

All that said, I'd call this specific issue more user error than a design flaw. Those with broken rings are likely to speak up about it on the forums but I'd bet most people don't have that issue.


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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

So I replaced all three rings, managing not to snap the 4th ring I picked up. I installed the cover, buttoned everything under the hood and it seems to have fixed my CEL. I've driven 300 miles since installation and no problems. 
Let me know if you have any questions about my experience with the repair. 


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## maicol1524 (Apr 16, 2015)

bmulder said:


> So I replaced all three rings, managing not to snap the 4th ring I picked up. I installed the cover, buttoned everything under the hood and it seems to have fixed my CEL. I've driven 300 miles since installation and no problems.
> Let me know if you have any questions about my experience with the repair.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What codes did you have before replace the o rings? P000A and P0011? 

Thanks 


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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

maicol1524 said:


> What codes did you have before replace the o rings? P000A and P0011?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> ...


Yes, I had both of them from time to time. Nothing since replacing all the rings.


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## maicol1524 (Apr 16, 2015)

bmulder said:


> Yes, I had both of them from time to time. Nothing since replacing all the rings.


Thanks for the upgrade, I'll check my o rings, because I'm having those codes 


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## Namrahd (Apr 8, 2016)

*Plastic rings*

Just thought I let everyone know .I have successfully replaced the metal rings with plastic one. The plastic rings are superseded which won't cause the moderator to have any wear grooves in them. Thanks for the part number.


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## maicol1524 (Apr 16, 2015)

bmulder said:


> Yes, I had both of them from time to time. Nothing since replacing all the rings.


**update** 

After change my 205 valve, my p000a and p0011 continues, I took of the housing and I found this... 

-ring broken 
-metal grind from my last camfollwer fail. 

Thanks


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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

maicol1524 said:


> **update**
> 
> After change my 205 valve, my p000a and p0011 continues, I took of the housing and I found this...
> 
> ...


Looks like you found the cause of your CELs! I'd bet a new set of rings will have it running right again.


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## vwisthebest (Sep 17, 2003)

Glad you found the source of your repetitive codes!


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## advash (Aug 27, 2002)

They sell just the rings by the way... Sorry don't have part number handy

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## Bilal.utah (Aug 12, 2016)

Can anyone give me some advice on this topic ?

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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

Bilal.utah said:


> Can anyone give me some advice on this topic ?
> 
> Sent from my SM-T320 using Tapatalk


What questions do you have???


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## Bilal.utah (Aug 12, 2016)

I bought a 2005 audi a4 a with 2.0 turbo engine, the previous owner had the head rebuilt 17k miles ago, on the receipt it says engine light comes on due to cam adjuster, I get the code P0011 and P000a, I put a new actuator and it still throws a code, I removed the valve cover, set the crank on TDC and the exhaust cam lines up with the marks but the lobe on the intake cam looks like it's a tooth off, I removed the cam chain housing and found a broken oil ring, my question is some came with metal oil rings like mine and come came with plastic, I ordered a set from the dealer, the metal oil rings seem to have made grooves, in the cam adjuster, can I just put new oil rings ?

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## Bilal.utah (Aug 12, 2016)

Would the new rings go into the adjuster properly ? Im guessing it could break if it gets caught in one of the grooves,


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## Bilal.utah (Aug 12, 2016)

bmulder said:


> What questions do you have???
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sorry i just joined so im getting used to using this app, i have my question posted on the forum


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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

Bilal.utah said:


> I bought a 2005 audi a4 a with 2.0 turbo engine, the previous owner had the head rebuilt 17k miles ago, on the receipt it says engine light comes on due to cam adjuster, I get the code P0011 and P000a, I put a new actuator and it still throws a code, I removed the valve cover, set the crank on TDC and the exhaust cam lines up with the marks but the lobe on the intake cam looks like it's a tooth off, I removed the cam chain housing and found a broken oil ring, my question is some came with metal oil rings like mine and come came with plastic, I ordered a set from the dealer, the metal oil rings seem to have made grooves, in the cam adjuster, can I just put new oil rings ?
> 
> Sent from my SM-T320 using Tapatalk


I believe replacing the broken rings should fix your problem. It sounds very similar to the codes I was getting from my 2.0T when it had a broken ring. 


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## Bilal.utah (Aug 12, 2016)

Thank you, should I adjust the intake camshaft to since the lobe looks higher than the lobe on the exhaust cam on the 4th cylinder 

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## Bilal.utah (Aug 12, 2016)

bmulder said:


> I believe replacing the broken rings should fix your problem. It sounds very similar to the codes I was getting from my 2.0T when it had a broken ring.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sorry another question, my cam got grooves like the picture im uploading, the picture is not from my car but i can fell light grooves on mine, do i need to change the can adjuster or will it be ok just replacing the oil seals?










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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

Bilal.utah said:


> Sorry another question, my cam got grooves like the picture im uploading, the picture is not from my car but i can fell light grooves on mine, do i need to change the can adjuster or will it be ok just replacing the oil seals?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Mine had grooves in it too, I replaced with plastic rings and have had no problems for about 5k miles. I'd say go for it. 


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## Bilal.utah (Aug 12, 2016)

bmulder said:


> Mine had grooves in it too, I replaced with plastic rings and have had no problems for about 5k miles. I'd say go for it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Great, thanks for your help, i get all the parts tomorrow and will we working on it at night, il let you know how it goes, fingers crossed i dont get P0011 and P000a anymore


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## Fogcat (Apr 29, 2015)

Just to be clear...NOT a code P0010? That is electrical, right? Having trouble with this and was told the subject of this thread I should consider.


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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

Fogcat said:


> Just to be clear...NOT a code P0010? That is electrical, right? Having trouble with this and was told the subject of this thread I should consider.


That is likely caused by a bad or failing cam position sensor, or N205 sensor? 

What car/engine is it? I think I have a spare used N205 I could send you if you want to swap in a known good part. I just need to check in the garage, let me know. 


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## Bilal.utah (Aug 12, 2016)

bmulder said:


> Mine had grooves in it too, I replaced with plastic rings and have had no problems for about 5k miles. I'd say go for it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


When doing the cam timing, the cam adjuster spins about half and inch to the left then half an inch to the right, what position should it be on before i put on the chain ? 


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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

Bilal.utah said:


> When doing the cam timing, the cam adjuster spins about half and inch to the left then half an inch to the right, what position should it be on before i put on the chain ?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sorry I can help you much there. When I replaced my tensioner and chain I marked the teeth on both cams and ensured they stayed in the same position when I installed the new chain. 


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## Bilal.utah (Aug 12, 2016)

Ok no problem, thank you


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## advash (Aug 27, 2002)

Isn't that the adjuster doing is thing? I would say no tention is right Vs one way or the other. Last I recall there was a slot that fits in the tool to align it all up. 

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## Bilal.utah (Aug 12, 2016)

The mark is lined up on the belt side, the cam tool is in that align both cams but on the adjuster at the back moves both ways a little so that is confusing me on which way it should be


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## Bilal.utah (Aug 12, 2016)

advash said:


> Isn't that the adjuster doing is thing? I would say no tention is right Vs one way or the other. Last I recall there was a slot that fits in the tool to align it all up.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


The mark is lined up on the belt side, the cam tool is in that align both cams but on the adjuster at the back moves both ways a little so that is confusing me on which way it should be


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## Fogcat (Apr 29, 2015)

bmulder said:


> That is likely caused by a bad or failing cam position sensor, or N205 sensor?
> 
> What car/engine is it? I think I have a spare used N205 I could send you if you want to swap in a known good part. I just need to check in the garage, let me know.
> 
> ...


I replaced the N205. Not trying to hijack thread, I was trying to make sure it wasn't the same issue. Thank you for the offer. I know a tensioner change will be coming and this thread directly relates. Again: thank you.
And also too::: The car is MY07 Passat 2/0T wagon, thats a BPY engine.


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## Bilal.utah (Aug 12, 2016)

Im back and have a question, i received all my new parts and got the car running again, drove about 50 miles but dont have an engine light on, i got my smog done today and it passed, but i do have one pending code P000A, by any chance do you know what that might be for? 

Ive replaced the following parts
Cam adjuster/bolt
Cam tensioner and cam chain
Cam adjuster oil seals in the cam housing
HPFP cam follower


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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

Bilal.utah said:


> Im back and have a question, i received all my new parts and got the car running again, drove about 50 miles but dont have an engine light on, i got my smog done today and it passed, but i do have one pending code P000A, by any chance do you know what that might be for?
> 
> Ive replaced the following parts
> Cam adjuster/bolt
> ...


Did you clear your ecu with a code reader after performing the work? It could be an old code still stored in the computer. 

If a CEL never pops up you should be fine. If it does and you're still getting the P000A code take the cam cover off and check the rings on the adjuster shaft, they are so fragile that you can break them by sliding the shaft back into the adjuster when installing the cover. 


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## Bilal.utah (Aug 12, 2016)

I've checked the rings and they were fine, I got them from audi, they were plastic, my original ones were metal and the plastic don't feel like they seal as good as the metal ones, also yes I've deleted the codes and the pending code popped up, IL drive it more and see if a hard code comes in

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## Ries (Sep 18, 2014)

So I'm in the process of resealing my cam cage because of a leak. When I removed the timing chain cover I noticed my adjuster had grooves as well and I found a broken adjuster seal ring in the cover.

Have we established that the adjuster is in fact 'not' supposed to have grooves? Looks like my cover is a 'G' version and the adjuster is 06F109088B. Again I'm like the other fellow here trying to determine if I should just replace the seals or replace the adjuster and the seals. Pic's below.


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## Bilal.utah (Aug 12, 2016)

I was told the grooves are ok, replace the seals and it should be fine as long as you dont damage the rings when putting them it, mine had metal rings then i ordered a set from the dealer and got plastic ones while didnt look as good as the metal ones, i feel they are not sealing as well as the metal ones, i had to put a new adjuster since mine had alot of play, the new adjust had no grooves, but after all that i am still getting a code P000A 


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## Ries (Sep 18, 2014)

Yea not sure how I feel about installing new seals and trying to get them to seat in the adjuster without breaking. I feel like those grooves will drive them to snap the minute they catch the ridge. Then there is the risk that they break and I don't notice and pieces lodge in the oil passage.

I suppose it's just safer to replace everything. Ugh.

EDIT: here is what I am looking at buying... https://www.ecstuning.com/ES281244/


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## Bilal.utah (Aug 12, 2016)

Ries said:


> Yea not sure how I feel about installing new seals and trying to get them to seat in the adjuster without breaking. I feel like those grooves will drive them to snap the minute they catch the ridge. Then there is the risk that they break and I don't notice and pieces lodge in the oil passage.
> 
> I suppose it's just safer to replace everything. Ugh.
> 
> EDIT: here is what I am looking at buying... https://www.ecstuning.com/ES281244/


That whole assembly looks great, with the groove if you put it in slowly they dont break and works out fine, but problem im facing is i used to have metal seals and the dealer sold me plastic ones so now i dont know which ones is better since im still getting the code P0011 and P000A, what was the reason you want to change everything ?


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## nater (Apr 10, 2000)

Thought I'd bump this from the dead as I need to replace these o-rings. But nobody mentioned (or I missed it) that they were available separately. They are: 06f 198 107a
and a quick google search of that part # nets this: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine...amshaft-adjuster-housing-seal-set/06f198107a/


EDIT: They were in stock at my local dealer, comes in a 3 pack. :thumbup:


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## Nikolaos23 (Jan 28, 2017)

Good morning guys, I'm Nick and I read above and I hope that I found the solution to my continuously appearing fault code p000a.I changed everything recommended exept those rings.My car is a vw golf vi 1.4 tsi CAVD engine 2009.Could you please give any info about the code of the part that I need?Where can find them?My engine is opened several times for some modifications and I remember my technician saying he found plastic pieces but he never said anything about that rings.


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## Barn01 (Feb 26, 2011)

nater said:


> Thought I'd bump this from the dead as I need to replace these o-rings. But nobody mentioned (or I missed it) that they were available separately. They are: 06f 198 107a
> and a quick google search of that part # nets this: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine...amshaft-adjuster-housing-seal-set/06f198107a/
> 
> 
> EDIT: They were in stock at my local dealer, comes in a 3 pack. :thumbup:


Thanks for the link. I didn't know they sold the seals. I have a full timing chain tensioner kit (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assembled-by-ecs-parts/cam-chain-tensioner-service-kit/06d109229bkt/) that I ordered from ECS and luckly it didn't ship yet due to a back order on the intake cam wrench (yes I ordered it too). I spoke to them and had them add on those seals. The last thing I need is to be half way into the job only to break a seal that I don't have and can't get locally (Canada). Also yesterday my car threw P000A for the first time  286K km's on the engine and yes it sounds like a diesel haha.


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## Thy_Harrowing (Dec 7, 2014)

Barn01 said:


> Thanks for the link. I didn't know they sold the seals. I have a full timing chain tensioner kit (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assembled-by-ecs-parts/cam-chain-tensioner-service-kit/06d109229bkt/) that I ordered from ECS and luckly it didn't ship yet due to a back order on the intake cam wrench (yes I ordered it too). I spoke to them and had them add on those seals. The last thing I need is to be half way into the job only to break a seal that I don't have and can't get locally (Canada). Also yesterday my car threw P000A for the first time  286K km's on the engine and yes it sounds like a diesel haha.


Just a headsup, you can get a perfectly good quality and complete set of all the specialty tools needed for this job on eBay for probably a fraction of whatever ECS is charging and also probably avoid the back-order. I am pretty sure the brand I got from eBay was "Baum" but there are others. Job went flawlessly (except for the stripped cam adjuster bolt, of course, and that wasn't the tools fault that was just the way this job goes). I sold the tool kit on the forums afterward for exactly what I paid. If you google "ebay baum tools vw timing tensioner kit" it should come up...


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## Barn01 (Feb 26, 2011)

Thy_Harrowing said:


> Just a headsup, you can get a perfectly good quality and complete set of all the specialty tools needed for this job on eBay for probably a fraction of whatever ECS is charging and also probably avoid the back-order. I am pretty sure the brand I got from eBay was "Baum" but there are others. Job went flawlessly (except for the stripped cam adjuster bolt, of course, and that wasn't the tools fault that was just the way this job goes). I sold the tool kit on the forums afterward for exactly what I paid. If you google "ebay baum tools vw timing tensioner kit" it should come up...


I didn't get the tools from ECS. I checked eBay and they couldn't touch the price for OE quality. This was the best price for the Assenmacher T10252 2.0L CAM Align Tool, and the #10 Poly Drive

I'm tackling this next weekend!


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## Thy_Harrowing (Dec 7, 2014)

Barn01 said:


> I didn't get the tools from ECS. I checked eBay and they couldn't touch the price for OE quality. This was the best price for the Assenmacher T10252 2.0L CAM Align Tool, and the #10 Poly Drive
> 
> I'm tackling this next weekend!


For OEM tools those prices are good but damn that's still a lot. I got the whole entire kit for the price of just that OEM cam locking plate. I went through the same debate in my head as you on whether to get OEM tools or risk it on non-OEM tools (I'm usually not at all the risk it type) but I did decide to take the chance based on others' good experiences with the non-OEM tools and I wound up having no issues and saving money. Anyway, looks like you're already locked in on the OEM tools so I won't try to change your mind, I was just seeing if it wasn't too late to save you some money. Either way you should be able to sell those after and recoup most of it.

Good luck with the job, it's really not so bad unless the cam adjuster bolt goes wrong. Just be prepared to deal with that... seems there's at least a 50% chance that it shreds. VW should be ashamed. When I did mine I just used the poly drive and a fairly short breaker bar, very carefully, so as not to strain it too much and it still shredded. I have wondered since then if it wouldn't actually be better to use an impact gun because while the power of the impact might also jack up the bolt it may zip it loose at the same time so at least it'd be loose enough to get out the rest of the way without drilling. That's conjecture though, not tested haha.


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## Barn01 (Feb 26, 2011)

Thy_Harrowing said:


> For OEM tools those prices are good but damn that's still a lot. I got the whole entire kit for the price of just that OEM cam locking plate. I went through the same debate in my head as you on whether to get OEM tools or risk it on non-OEM tools (I'm usually not at all the risk it type) but I did decide to take the chance based on others' good experiences with the non-OEM tools and I wound up having no issues and saving money. Anyway, looks like you're already locked in on the OEM tools so I won't try to change your mind, I was just seeing if it wasn't too late to save you some money. Either way you should be able to sell those after and recoup most of it.
> 
> Good luck with the job, it's really not so bad unless the cam adjuster bolt goes wrong. Just be prepared to deal with that... seems there's at least a 50% chance that it shreds. VW should be ashamed. When I did mine I just used the poly drive and a fairly short breaker bar, very carefully, so as not to strain it too much and it still shredded. I have wondered since then if it wouldn't actually be better to use an impact gun because while the power of the impact might also jack up the bolt it may zip it loose at the same time so at least it'd be loose enough to get out the rest of the way without drilling. That's conjecture though, not tested haha.


I was going to go for the el-cheapo kit at first but the last thing I need is for the bar to bend and the cam to slip while I put an impact gun on it (turning a cam while a piston is at TDC is risky). Also this is a good price for the tool and if I can resell it for anything close to what I paid for it then I don't really care about the $20 it may cost me to "use" it. Besides I have at least 2 and maybe 3 A3's to do this job to.

I'm still debating what method to take the bolt out with. I think I'll try a breaker bar first with someone else pushing the bit in to reduce the chance of slip (I'll tap the bit with a hammer as well to break some of the aged metal to metal tension). If that doesn't work after a bit of pressure then I'll hammer at it with the impact gun while pushing hard on it. Fingers crossed, 12yrs old and 286k km's .... it should be fun!

The guy down the street from me wants to help because he has a BPY with a broken cam adj bolt (the taper part came off like a donut, very odd) and the locating pin on the inside of his adjuster sheered.


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## Thy_Harrowing (Dec 7, 2014)

> I was going to go for the el-cheapo kit at first but the last thing I need is for the bar to bend and the cam to slip while I put an impact gun on it (turning a cam while a piston is at TDC is risky). Also this is a good price for the tool and if I can resell it for anything close to what I paid for it then I don't really care about the $20 it may cost me to "use" it. Besides I have at least 2 and maybe 3 A3's to do this job to.


Yeah that is the same dilemma I was debating, minus the impact gun factor since I didn't have one at the time, and I did almost go OEM but funds at the time sorta swayed me towards the riskier proposition. Thankfully it all worked out. I would have never went with the cheapo tools if I hadn't had a few people I trust tell me from experience that they were well built and machined tools that did the job to perfect tolerances. I totally understand you wanting to use the OEM tools just in case, especially if you have several vehicles to use it on. Makes sense. 



> I'm still debating what method to take the bolt out with. I think I'll try a breaker bar first with someone else pushing the bit in to reduce the chance of slip (I'll tap the bit with a hammer as well to break some of the aged metal to metal tension). If that doesn't work after a bit of pressure then I'll hammer at it with the impact gun while pushing hard on it. Fingers crossed, 12yrs old and 286k km's .... it should be fun!


Yeah that is precisely what I did - second person pushing in, hammer taps, etc. - and it still got buggered up. I'm not saying it won't work for you, I'm just saying it didn't work for me and I honestly, truly thought it would. I thought if I did it that way and I'm careful with how much pressure I put on it at once it should all go fine... I was aiming so far on the positive side of things that for a second when it sheared I tried to convince myself it had just broken loose, but deep down I knew from the feel of it that wasn't the truth and in the next few seconds my heart slowly sank and then, well, then the cursing ensued. You know how it is, hahaha. I think it's funny that I have a perfect memory of how it all went down and it was a couple years ago... I can barely remember details of **** that happened last week sometimes when life is particularly hectic.



> The guy down the street from me wants to help because he has a BPY with a broken cam adj bolt (the taper part came off like a donut, very odd) and the locating pin on the inside of his adjuster sheered.


Wow that's a new one to my ears! Yes, very odd. I wonder how he managed that... well looks like you get some practice drilling on someone else's before you get to yours LOL (although I hope it doesn't come do having to drill on yours).


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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

Sorry to rejoin this thread after such long inactivity... if anyone needs tools for this job, I still have the adjuster wrench and polydrive bit. Unfortunately my clamp failed during the job, so that got returned! 

Hit me up if anyone wants the wrench and polydrive though. 


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## Jimmy7gti (Jan 4, 2019)

My rings broke in my 07 gti fsi I have the plastic rings. On the ECS Tuning link above they don’t include the gti in the compatible vehicles. But the Passat is there with the fsi engine which has plastic rings. Are they both the same rings?


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## Thy_Harrowing (Dec 7, 2014)

Jimmy7gti said:


> My rings broke in my 07 gti fsi I have the plastic rings. On the ECS Tuning link above they don’t include the gti in the compatible vehicles. But the Passat is there with the fsi engine which has plastic rings. Are they both the same rings?


Yes they will be the same, that must be a mistake in their listing


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## Sandman333 (Oct 28, 2002)

Just an FYI for anyone removing/reinstalling this part- I gave both the sealing rings and the inside of the VVT cam adjuster where they ride a very liberal coating of a moly engine assembly lube when I put mine back together (I have the ceramic rings). The cover slipped on so easily that I had to pull it off again to make sure I had remembered to install the rings. There was absolutely no resistance felt. I've since completed the repair and have perfect engine performance and no trouble codes. I would definitely recommend using an engine assembly lube when installing the cover.

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## vwooom (Aug 23, 2005)

Sandman333 said:


> Just an FYI for anyone removing/reinstalling this part- I gave both the sealing rings and the inside of the VVT cam adjuster where they ride a very liberal coating of a moly engine assembly lube when I put mine back together (I have the ceramic rings). The cover slipped on so easily that I had to pull it off again to make sure I had remembered to install the rings. There was absolutely no resistance felt. I've since completed the repair and have perfect engine performance and no trouble codes. I would definitely recommend using an engine assembly lube when installing the cover.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Great idea. 👍
I noticed the rings are currently on sale here, went and ordered some.

https://www.europaparts.com/camshaft-adjuster-housing-seal-set-06f198107a-oea.html


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