# Superveedubs 60 days to H2Oi build, 1303 track car



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Hello all,

I've been working on my 1974 super beetle on and off since I've had it, it was my first car. It's gone from being on terrible wheels, to not running, to correct wheels, running, to turbo 1641cc, to not running, to... You get the point. This latest installment began months ago when I started amassing parts to transform it into a mostly dedicated track car. 

Engine- Aluminum case, 2165 CC, Mofoco heads, Megasquirt, ID1000 injectors, Ra Jay turbo

Body- Mostly stock 1303, new custom floor pans (more on this later), lexan windows, fiberglass fenders, Ron lummus 8-point 4130 roll cage, Recaros with Takata 6-point belts

Suspension- rear turbo 944 trailing arms and brakes, front N/A 944 spindles and brakes. Topline Maxx Struts and swaybar, Kerscher tuning ball joints, All poly bushings from Energy.

As some of you know, track cars take a lot of time, sweat, blood, and tears to build. Starting a few weeks ago or so I got the crazy idea to set ANOTHER deadline for myself, H2Oi (Sept 27). This will be a thread dedicated to my hopeful completion of my car in the next 60 days.

60 Days left,

The story continues from repairing the front end. The car sustained a decent front impact sometime in the distant past before my owner ship. After finding a 73 super donor car for the sheet metal, many nights of spot weld removal and cutting, I'm finally at the stage of tacking everything back together. Mind you it is not pretty yet, going for strength here first, then polishing everything off.

As this post is my first, I'd like to include a number of pictures from the recent past to bring everyone up to speed. Hope you will enjoy it as much as I do.

Last complete version,




Pre-cut




Donor


Bad metal


Patch in new metal


Start of today




My list of things to do,


More to come, I will try to update this daily. :thumbup:


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## LEBlackRob (Feb 1, 2012)

About time, you have been keeping this build under raps to long. Hope you can get this together for H20 bud.


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## dUB410 JTI (Apr 14, 2009)

this should be 60 days to the "no radiator meet"


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## Andy P (Jan 6, 2007)

ya buddy :thumbup:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

dUB410 JTI said:


> this should be 60 days to the "no radiator meet"


Totally correct on that one! 

On today's agenda is finishing up tack welds on the side sheet metal, cleaning up more of the inside to pave the way for installing the new spare tire well. Waiting on UPS to bring me more goodies to fabricate with, then the dash project will begin. Hopefully if all goes well with the front end tonight and the next few days the roll cage can get started, which leads to the body coming off. Hope I don't run out of argon!


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

59 Days left,

Got some more welding done tonight. The sides of the trunk area are now 98% in, just needs some more love with a grinder to smooth out, and the front portion of the strut tower brace. I was met at my door to another piece of the build, my pedal box came in.



Should be fun to mount, the only trick I don't have an answer to (yet) is attaching the throttle cable. The box was designed for a front engine vehicle, so the geometry of the pedal may need tinkered with. I ain't scurred.

Started the evening off with a hammer and dolly to straighten out any imperfections left over from removing the bad spare tire well, 

Ouch



Started off my cutting and welding on the passenger side, mostly tacked in. From this angle you can see the lower portion of the strut tower brace that needs put back in. 


Inside shot of the passenger side trunk area,


Over to the drivers side. same treatment cutting off the excess metal I used to line up the replacement metal, then welding in place.


While on the drivers side, on the rear part of the strut brace I notice a little spot of rust. Deciding to leave no stone unturn, I poke and prodded...



Yep, figures as much -_-


Cleaned it out real good, dump some POR-15 in there, weld over it,


Like it never even happened. Almost, 



By now I'm feeling patchy, found another spot that could use some fresh metal,


And the patch, by now also my grinder started to sound like impending doom, I opted not to continue on cleaning up my welds until tomorrow. By then I'll be able to grab some more grease, hopefully keeping it on the front lines of all this fun.



Tomorrow I hope to finish up prepping for the actual spare tire well, install the lower strut tower braces on each side, and install the spare tire well. :thumbup:


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> 59 Days left,my pedal box came in.
> 
> 
> 
> Should be fun to mount, the only trick I don't have an answer to (yet) is attaching the throttle cable. The box was designed for a front engine vehicle, so the geometry of the pedal may need tinkered with. I ain't scurred.


Hi Supervee  ,
Given that you're in road running as opposed to my offroading you shouldn't have to reposition the seat like I did several times from vertical to semi-laydown to almost laydown in order to save my spine:banghead: , whenever I changed the seat position I had to change the pedal location because as my butt moved forward & knees rode higher, but that alone didn't accommodate a single pedal position so I created a line of 8mm holes ~1/4" apart on a solid bottom mounting plate so the whole assembly could be moved .
On yours with the consolidated pedal bracket just create 3(OK 4[1 under the throttle pedal] ) tracks of 8mm threaded nutserts on the floor & a series of 8mm countersunk holes in the bracket base runners & use http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy-...Jj4zMA.O&fp=754a2d9030ff61a5&biw=1280&bih=832 to lock it down .
On the throttle pedal I'd suggest welding a solid plate to the right side of the pedal with a vertical line of 6mm holes drilled through @ ~3/16" apart in order to be able to move the ball or clevis mount on a Morse cable http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=morse&image.x=23&image.y=12 higher or lower to match the throttle throw @ the carb .
What came in as most useful, to me at least while bumpin' around(pretty extreme )offroad, was the heel bar I added in which helped allow me to lock my feet to the floor & just V my right foot between the brake & throttle pedals @ a moments notice instead of lifting & replanting in a different spot .
























from
http://s72.photobucket.com/user/buggymanvw/library/?sort=3&page=5 .
I had the shuttle bar on the brake pedal preferenced to the rear brakes in order to avoid a nose dive or "plowing under" in sand, felt more like being pulled down to a stop from behind initially before the fronts kicked in but you'll need to set your bias a little more neutral for road courses .
I don't know if it's allowed in the type of running you do but a turning brake
















would allow you to "set up" for corners while having your right foot on the throttle rather than having to fully pedal brake & recover speed(a temporary hand controlled drift used sparingly ).

This may somewhat all sound unnecessary but I just figured to throw everything out there that I went through to see what sticks as _possibly_ useful in your setup while I was already here .

:beer:


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## burnt63 (Feb 19, 2004)

looking forward to seeing this car in person. :thumbup:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> Hi Supervee  ,
> Given that you're in road running as opposed to my offroading you shouldn't have to reposition the seat like I did several times from vertical to semi-laydown to almost laydown in order to save my spine:banghead: , whenever I changed the seat position I had to change the pedal location because as my butt moved forward & knees rode higher, but that alone didn't accommodate a single pedal position so I created a line of 8mm holes ~1/4" apart on a solid bottom mounting plate so the whole assembly could be moved .
> On yours with the consolidated pedal bracket just create 3(OK 4[1 under the throttle pedal] ) tracks of 8mm threaded nutserts on the floor & a series of 8mm countersunk holes in the bracket base runners & use http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy-...Jj4zMA.O&fp=754a2d9030ff61a5&biw=1280&bih=832 to lock it down .
> On the throttle pedal I'd suggest welding a solid plate to the right side of the pedal with a vertical line of 6mm holes drilled through @ ~3/16" apart in order to be able to move the ball or clevis mount on a Morse cable http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=morse&image.x=23&image.y=12 higher or lower to match the throttle throw @ the carb .
> What came in as most useful, to me at least while bumpin' around(pretty extreme )offroad, was the heel bar I added in which helped allow me to lock my feet to the floor & just V my right foot between the brake & throttle pedals @ a moments notice instead of lifting & replanting in a different spot ...


Buggyman, great advice I appreciate the input! I like the idea of fabricating another piece onto the throttle pedal, I'll have to design a few little test pieces to see which fits the best/doesn't interfere with foot positioning. I had my eye on a few different styles of hand brakes, I don't know how they would interact with my LSD going in though and how to plumb them to my 944 calipers either, being that they are hydraulic opposed to cable. 




burnt63 said:


> looking forward to seeing this car in person.


I'm looking forward to seeing it all together again! Hope I can get it together in time. Let alone all the fabrication work that needs to happen, I'll have to break all the new components in, rewire 99% of the car, tune the ECU enough to make it run happily. Just have to stay motivated and hope it all falls into place!

If not then my plan B is taking my 2012 Beetle TSI, it just wont fit in at the no radiator gtg


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

58 Days left,

Didn't get as much done today as I hoped, but visually it is a big difference. Started off today by repairing my 90 degree grinder, went well but took a good bit of time. After that was all set I dug right into cleaning off some welds from the last few days.

Patch #2 from yesterday cleaned up a bit,


Onward to cleaning up the inside tack welds to get a nice tight gap when re installing the spare tire well.


Next, deciding it would be a good idea to hit the rest of the hard to get areas with POR-15. Insert 15 minutes of fighting the small can open with screw drivers/chisels/anything around to pry with. Naturally when the lid finally did pop off I ended up wearing some on my forearm. Quickly wiped it off with some brake cleaner.


Few minutes later my novice body work was starting to look a lot cleaner.


Figured while I have the brush out I'd hit the bottom of the spare tire well as... well.


Why stop there?! Grabbed the front apron off the shelf and started on the inside of it too. The inside of the louvers was fun, used a q-tip minus most of the cotton like a dropper. Put a good drop or two at the top of each and let it run down. By the time I got to the last louver most of them were totally covered or damn close. Took the same q-tip and spread it the rest of the way carefully. POR-15 All the things.


BY now I was wishing I had more to paint. Without the POR-15 being dry enough to weld around/grind off cleanly I decided to call it a night on the actual manual labor aspect. But I am getting my reading on preparing for my cage install.


I also realize that this POR-15 will likely come off when the skin comes off.. Anyone have a good home remedy to help wash off POR-15?


More to come later. For the rest of this evening Im just going to inventory my supplies to make sure when roll cage time comes I can knock it out it a day or so.


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> Buggyman, great advice I appreciate the input! I like the idea of fabricating another piece onto the throttle pedal, I'll have to design a few little test pieces to see which fits the best/doesn't interfere with foot positioning. I had my eye on a few different styles of hand brakes, I don't know how they would interact with my LSD going in though and how to plumb them to my 944 calipers either, being that they are hydraulic opposed to cable.(


Dayo Supervee  ,
Early 944 discs bolt _right_ up to VW IRS trailing arms since the early 944's used the _exact _same trailing arm part# as a VW IRS bug:thumbup: 








700lb car with ~180HP ,I needed good brakes








The caliper brackets have Ebrakes & the lines clip right into the TA brackets








& this is how I adapted the pattern using the offset spacers
















On the turning brake








all I did was split the line to the rear with side dedicated brake light switches:
Pull back to lock the left brake & the left brake light goes on
Push forward to lock the right brake & the right brake light goes on
Release the handle & hit the pedal & both brakes & brake lights go on
But:facepalm: , _if_ I had been paying better attention:banghead::laugh: & read more carefully :
"Suspension- rear turbo 944 trailing arms and brakes..."
all of what I just wrote is kind of a moot point _especially_ now that I know you're gonna be running an LSD (_can't_ run a TB[cable _or_ hydro] with an LSD because it would be like just engaging an Ebrake ) but figure to leave it all here _just in case_ .
You may(_please do_ ) also want to surf around a little for more info on http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=4499.0  (air skooled http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2765352-badassdubs.com
from
http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy-...53,d.cGE&fp=f66e36261187ba88&biw=1280&bih=832
on this site ) who also used the late turbo 944 TA's .

Looks like








you're stuck with a temp tat:laugh: for a while:
http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy-...on.2,or.&fp=f66e36261187ba88&biw=1280&bih=832 .

:thumbup::beer:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

57 days left,

Today the UPS man brought me some more goodies. Aeromotive fuel regulator, an oil thermostat, some fittings, and most importantly my Brad Penn Oil/Gear Oil/Break in Oil.


Jumping right into action I decide to tackle the front strut tower brace sections, Some grinding action ensued


Getting it as close as possible before I tack/Beat it into submission


Fast forward to the drivers side, which I actually started on,


Fast forward through some tacking/beating/grinding


Not the prettiest things I've ever seen but they are solid,


After some trimming on the spare tire well piece i decide to dry fit it with the front apron. Partly to check out it will fit, mostly to see the car sortof together again for inspiration




Took the front back apart to grind away any overlapping POR15, decided to start designing my fuel cell as well. 


By this time I got distracted by drafting out a fuel cell and trying to find a local fabricator to turn my drawing into a working piece. I still have some figuring to do to make sure it will be enough volume for me, as well as to plan out a front end brace... Just incase I end up hitting a tree or something I dont want fuel spraying out everywhere.


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> 57 days left,
> 
> Took the front back apart to grind away any overlapping POR15, decided to start designing my fuel cell as well.
> 
> ...


Dayo Sv  ,
Had you considered just planting a premade FC behind the back seat?
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/search.html?query=fuel cell 
from
http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=365.0 
from a general search of "fuel cell" @ http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php .

http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy-...53,d.cGE&fp=bedf97e677bf6930&biw=1280&bih=832

_Basically_ in the same place as in my rail








_Well_ protected , waaay better weight distribution , just let metal in front of you crush _as designed_ in case that tree jumps in front of you .

:beer:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> Dayo Sv  ,
> Had you considered just planting a premade FC behind the back seat?
> http://www.speedwaymotors.com/search.html?query=fuel cell
> from
> ...


I have considered that kind of setup, but then that will lead to the fuel cell being in the car with me! Where it will be mostly a track car, I want to be able to drive it on the street too. Im still weighing my options for the tank though, I may be able to fit a tank like yours up front as well for a little more weight on the front tires. My issue is I want some kind of baffling or foam in there. Im not sure how well round tanks and foam work together


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

56 Days left,

Today I started off with fitting the spare tire well a little better. Some self tappers and a hammer goes a long way. I know "because racecar" isn't a good excuse for dodgy bodywork, but Im going for solid here, not for showcar.



Getting it close enough to weld, I start tacking it in place. Contrary to the picture I did hop all around the piece to limit warping to a minimum. Tack here, use a body hammer and dolly to close up the gap around that weld, jump to the other side.. rinse and repeat.



Just around time for me to finish up the welds in the spare tire well, my buddy from work drops by for a helping hand with his BMW calipers. Since he needed to get them apart by tomorrow for powder coating I had no problem helping.. 12 pistons later... he was good to go,



Back to the project at hand. With the tire well feeling very solid and sturdy, I removed all the self tappers. Now it was time to fit the front apron and see how far off it was. Wasn't too bad, the bottom of the passenger side was in about an inch or so.. nothing a big hammer couldnt fix.



I end my night like this, ready to finish up the front end. Tomorrow I need to pick up some more cheap brushes for POR-15 and some seam sealer to finish it up the right way. I plan to doctor up the front fender wells tomorrow and POR15 them as well.



Roll cage is calling my name, I need to start getting that part of the project under way... In due time.


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> I have considered that kind of setup, but then that will lead to the fuel cell being in the car with me! Where it will be mostly a track car, I want to be able to drive it on the street too. Im still weighing my options for the tank though, I may be able to fit a tank like yours up front as well for a little more weight on the front tires. My issue is I want some kind of baffling or foam in there. Im not sure how well round tanks and foam work together


Dayo Sv  ,
Luggage tray FC's are exreeeemely common in Baja Bug configurations








from
http://www.azbaja.com/ForumsPro/viewtopic/t=3892.html 
from
http://www.google.com/search?q=vw+b...a=N&tab=wi&ei=s3n8Uf3SE4emiQLD94GYBg#imgdii=_ 
& road race formats








from
http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/07/a-beetle-that-thinks-its-a-bmw/ 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...er-content&p=82667947&viewfull=1#post82667947
If the SpeedHunters guy didn't have a radiator to feed back there he'd have room for a full back seat.
The reference to mine was just more of a _location_ suggestion rather than a _type of tank_ recommendation .
_Pretty sure_ this guy is set up the same way




& Pat  




had a _very_ well protected fuel cell located @ the front of his car(see where the fire comes from? ).
This http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy-...53,d.cGE&fp=bedf97e677bf6930&biw=1280&bih=832 _may_ help .
Have your whole car weighed @ something like a recycling station, then just weigh @ the rear axle, then just @ the front axle, add ~90lbs(weight of fuel = ~7lbs/gal + ~20lbs for the tank )both @ the luggage tray then @ the front spare tire area respectively = static weight distribution (you need to be in the driver's seat on all 3 tests ).
Like the tail rudder on an airplane both the turning brake or LSD allow you "point & shoot" from apex to apex, both are pretty much a driver based learned art .

:thumbup:opcorn::beer:


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## Jade Wombat (Oct 20, 2004)

You're having a fuel cell made from scratch for the spare tire well? They do sell those, I've seen them in the back of the SCCA magazine and Grassroots Motorsports, etc.


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## WD-40 (Oct 9, 2005)

Superveedub said:


> Took the front back apart to grind away any overlapping POR15, decided to start designing my fuel cell as well.
> 
> 
> By this time I got distracted by drafting out a fuel cell and trying to find a local fabricator to turn my drawing into a working piece. I still have some figuring to do to make sure it will be enough volume for me, as well as to plan out a front end brace... Just incase I end up hitting a tree or something I dont want fuel spraying out everywhere.



You might want to think a bit more about that design...


The area you're building a fuel cell into is the crumple zone on a Super, and the spare tire laying flat was part of that safety design. The factory gas tank is where it is, to be behind the crumple zone and protected. 

If you put a round fuel cell in the spare tire well and tie it down, and get into a hard frontal accident, the gas *will* get forced/sprayed out when the fuel cell is crushed. If you brace the front end enough to keep this from happening, then you no longer have a crumple zone. What gives then when you hit the tree? Either the footwell, crushing your legs or pinning you in the car, or you have a car so rigid (front tied into the cage) that your body itself takes the brunt of the impact forces.  Neither one is pleasant. 


This has been a long time ago now, but a great learning experience came from Eric Roberts' crash in his 'Plum Bug Racer'. I think it was pretty rough for him, but fortunately he survived and shared his story. :thumbup: 



















I can't remember all the details, but I remember that his fuel cell was a smaller rectangular cell, which was squashed and forced upwards when the front of the car crumpled. Try to picture where your low spare tire well cell would be in these pictures. That space literally no longer exists. 




Consider putting the cell in the factory tank location if you can. :thumbup: If you can't, it might be wise to go with a smaller non-round cell, so that the front of the car can collapse a bit before it starts putting pressure on the fuel cell. :beer:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

That is some good input from all three of you. Since I've started this project I've been going back and forth on tank designs for that same reason. Hell even the front end that I just replaced should be proof of the crumple zone on a super. At the time of the accident it must have had the spare in there because of the way it buckled. I wouldn't mind putting a cell up where the OE one was, I just want to find something that looks clean!

Those rear mounted cells don't look too bad buggyman, I see what you mean. My issue in that regard is that is where I plan to mount my ecu and whatnot. I know I could make an interesting way to mount my electronics to have room for both if need be though. Luckily since the car is still a little away from trying to fire it up, I have more time to play with finding the right fuel set up. Bonus perks of a rear tank would be less line to run. 

Onward to updates.

55 days left,

Started out today by dropping in on the shop working on my transmission. I had to give them my list of VDO gauges to order, decided to take a peek at the trans progress as well.


Slowly but surely, I really hope they can get it done with time to spare... so I have time for whatever twists need to happen.

Next on the list was to replace a fender nut that was MIA on the parts car. Took a M8 nut I had ordered for my fender stud project, found a washer that fit nicely on the other side then welded them together. A little doctoring to the welds themself then slipping the assembly into the empty spot. Few tacks later and it was good to go. The bolt DID get hot by the way in case you were wondering, I decided to try and unscrew it too soon:facepalm:


Clamped and ready to put the apron on. Those with keen attention to detail may notice the apron overlapping a bolt hole. It's not as bad as it looks, I tested it afterwords 


Finally, the front end is together again, and solid!


After a quick run to my local Advance Auto for some seam sealer (the brand they have there as you could assume, is NOT the best..) I started covering up my body work. I DID mention I don't do body work for a living right? 


Drivers side with all kinds of seam sealer spread out on it


Now to the passenger side.. this was about two hours later as the sealer needed to dry before painting. After looking close up I think it wasn't exactly dry enough by this point either. Oh well, It needs two coats anyways.


Doesn't look TOO hateful for a shop this size. After all this brushing I think my hand was shaky? Only excuse I have for the unfocused pictures.


Drivers side POR-15'd up,


And the spare tire well itself, as you see around the steering shaft area I ran out. not too bad of coverage for such a small can! Two more of those and I should be about handled for the rear fender wells and such.


Now this is the part I let everything dry up, and plan my attack for tomorrow. Probably more POR-15, and mocking up my floor pans so I can start the cage install.


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## WD-40 (Oct 9, 2005)

Looks great, but remember to keep a bare spot for the grounding wires.


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> That is some good input from all three of you. Since I've started this project I've been going back and forth on tank designs for that same reason. Hell even the front end that I just replaced should be proof of the crumple zone on a super. At the time of the accident it must have had the spare in there because of the way it buckled. I wouldn't mind putting a cell up where the OE one was, I just want to find something that looks clean!
> 
> Those rear mounted cells don't look too bad buggyman, I see what you mean. My issue in that regard is that is where I plan to mount my ecu and whatnot. I know I could make an interesting way to mount my electronics to have room for both if need be though. Luckily since the car is still a little away from trying to fire it up, I have more time to play with finding the right fuel set up. Bonus perks of a rear tank would be less line to run.


Dayo Sv  ,
http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=3883.0 
http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=902.0
The ECU & other electronics can be spread between or consolidated within either/both the empty LR portion under the rear seat








from
http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=3171.0 (please read the whole thread & click on all the links) 
&/or inside the LR 1/4 panel behind the upholstery card(#5)
















from
http://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/pcat02_03/index2.html
_All_ of your wiring to the rear is already there . 
For a clean interior look consider a replacement package tray between the top of the back seat back to just under the rear window(#24)








like








from
http://www.oldbug.com/dustindkp.htm 
from
http://www.google.com/search?q=vw+b...a=N&tab=wi&ei=4L39UcGWC4PniwKLjIGIDQ#imgdii=_
Instead of just running this level as stock is you can contour the back end of it so it tilts up in order to throw a few speakers in there also .
Take a look @ Roger's  vid




& freeze-frame it @ 0:43-0:44 seconds to see what can be crammed into a rear 1/4 panel .

I passed this all by a few avid offroading co-workers @ work today & _all_ agreed that the FC behind the back seat, protected by the rear crumple zone & cage & rear axles/torsions would be _by far_ the safest & most efficient placement considering it would be a track car:thumbup: .




from
http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy-...53,d.cGE&fp=bedf97e677bf6930&biw=1280&bih=832 

:beer::beer:


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## Euro Skank (Feb 1, 2008)

Wow. I'm thuroughly impressed with your work sir. 

I just picked up my 73 super two days ago. I've been in and out of the game for years and have only been to h2o in Audis so far. This year I intend to bring my new wife, new vw, and first air cooled. You sir are an inspiration. 

Any hints as to how I can cheaply and easily lower the front of my super? What do you plan to do with your old suspension? 

Keep up the work!


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## dan the welder (Mar 7, 2006)

nice project. Its cool to see that these deadline:H20 projects are happening all around town. good luck:beer:

ps I work in your city @B&W


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Buggyman, has anyone ever told you that you're a wealth of information? I really appreciate all the ideas and advice :thumbup:. I've narrowed the fuel cell choices/placement down to two ideas, the rear parcel tray area as your suggesting, or stock location like the light blue super thats photo'd earlier in this thread. Limitations now are how I run the roll cage, it may go through the parcel shelf area. All still up in the air! 




Euro Skank said:


> Wow. I'm thuroughly impressed with your work sir.
> 
> I just picked up my 73 super two days ago. I've been in and out of the game for years and have only been to h2o in Audis so far. This year I intend to bring my new wife, new vw, and first air cooled. You sir are an inspiration.
> 
> ...


Thanks! I'm glad your enjoying the progress as much as I am, appreciate the kind words! Having a 73 I believe your in the same boat I was with the two bolt(on the bottom) front struts? MY old suspension is off to pasture somewhere, I pawned it off to one of my buddies that wanted to change his 72 super suspension to the newer style. BUT, you have two options for the cheaper route. 

You can grab some sport springs for a LITTLE bit lower, it helps to even out the natural rear rake.
http://toplineparts.com/lower-your/sport-springs-pair.html

OR you can use what I used to use, adjustable struts.
http://toplineparts.com/lower-your/versa-strut-74-79-pair.html

These have a snap ring you can use to lower the bottom spring perch, like coil overs but less fine tuning. The pictures at the top of my car with the green wheels I was bottomed out on this style suspension with stock springs. If your car has three bolts at the bottom of the strut, they have the same product for that as well.. check out the site if you haven't, they are very good!



dan the welder said:


> nice project. Its cool to see that these deadline:H20 projects are happening all around town. good luck
> 
> ps I work in your city @B&W


Thank you, and that's funny! I live like 5 minutes away from B&W! :thumbup:

Onward to todays updates. Lazy sunday, but I did get to run around a lot.

54 days left,

Started today by helping my buddy put his Bimmer calipers BACK together, and running out to Summit Racing for some more POR-15. Took forever, turns out there was a Chevy only car show happening up there...


Back home for some more fun POR-ing. I decided to halfass tape off the fenders about halfway between where the fender mates up. I've already gotten POR on the green paint, will be a pita to get off, and I'd like to minimize the hassle!


Drivers side touched up some more, starting to take the tape off,


While all the paint was drying I decided to take all my roll cage apart from its packaging. After a quick inventory it seems as though I'm missing the knee/dash bar. I'm sure it wont be a problem to have one sent out to me, I realize I'm still not close enough to seriously put time into installing it. 


Grabbing more from my Ron Lummus Racing shipment, decided to check out the 1" transmission raise kit I ordered. It has been sitting a little in my humid garage, so the rust is my fault not theirs! This should help stiffen things a bit back there as well, If I thinking correctly, this will be a solid mount for my transmission. If not I have a Polyurethane bushing set for it just incase. 


So my anticipation got the best of me, started to put the cage in temporarily just to checkout fitment. Looks like the stock belts need out..


Now they are out, and I start taping the cage just enough to keep it from falling over,


By this point I realize it was a good idea to mock it up. This door brace will fit, but only after the dash gets cut a little. This means that the lower dash portion I planned to remake out of 3003 aluminum we just have to be wider, then I will notch that for hopefully a clean look.


Here is a rear window in view of the cage all taped together.. minus the seat belt bar/head bar/MIA dash bar. Also I'd like to note that this is NOT how RLR says there cage should be installed. The two rear bars that are crossed should go through the rear tray and be attached to the transmission horns if I read the directions correctly. This DOES however look cooler to me with them crossed over. I may set them up like this, and get some more tubing to attach these from the rear shelf area to the chassis underneath. They are like that now because that is the only way they fit inside the car around where they mount on the main loop. 


Anyhow back to things that needed to be done. I decided it would be a good idea to put the suspension back together, that way the wheels can go back on, and the rollers underneath. Next order of business when I get motivated again is to take the body off to make my replacement floor pans. From THERE I can start mounting the cage/seats/harness', and eventually the dash. 


NEED to get the transmission soon, it is the key piece in how I can run the tubo down pipe/up-pipe and intake hard pipe. Long story short I don't know where the turbo will fit yet 

That will be the last of the big fabrication bits, the rest is wiring/fitting/finishing. My back hurts just from thinking about it.


----------



## Euro Skank (Feb 1, 2008)

Awesome! Thanks for the fast reply sir. I'm going to strive for meeting you at h2o. I must see your bug in person! 

I just have too many cars that need to be played with. The super is on the top of my list. 

I actually had a cart full of items with topline waiting for payment. I was debating between the 2" lowering springs with 2.5" drop spindles or the adjustable struts. In that first picture, all you did for the front was the adjustables? That's it? Stock springs, struts, tie rods, and sway bar? Ill order them right now  

What do you have going on in that first pic in the rear? Just lowering springs? Make me a shopping list, don't tell my girl, and ill provide the visa lol. 

I've been contemplating one of these EBay $50 coil over sleeve kits just to experiment. It's worth it for the adjustable sleeves. If the perch diameter is wide enough I might give it a shot with the stock springs. Thoughts? Think the supers stock strut assembly dia will be small enough or the sleeve to fit over it? 











Ps I would pm you all this but I feel like this should be shared.


----------



## Jade Wombat (Oct 20, 2004)

Just curious what sort of track days you will be doing? This is roadcourse I'm assuming. The rules may dictate where and how you mount your cage and fuel cell.


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> Buggyman, has anyone ever told you that you're a wealth of information? I really appreciate all the ideas and advice :thumbup:. I've narrowed the fuel cell choices/placement down to two ideas, the rear parcel tray area as your suggesting, or stock location like the light blue super thats photo'd earlier in this thread. Limitations now are how I run the roll cage, it may go through the parcel shelf area. All still up in the air!Grabbing more from my Ron Lummus Racing shipment, decided to check out the 1" transmission raise kit I ordered. It has been sitting a little in my humid garage, so the rust is my fault not theirs! This should help stiffen things a bit back there as well, If I thinking correctly, this will be a solid mount for my transmission. If not I have a Polyurethane bushing set for it just incase.


 Dayo Sv  , 
Since you'll also be streeting this you may also want to look @ http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=4895.msg34482#msg34482 & http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=4879.msg33402#msg33402 & http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=5064.0 in order to save your ears "It all adds up to a still solidly mounted trans with little or no noise transfer to the interior of the car" . 

:thumbup::beer:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> Dayo Sv  ,
> Since you'll also be streeting this you may also want to look @ http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=4895.msg34482#msg34482 & http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=4879.msg33402#msg33402 & http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=5064.0 in order to save your ears "It all adds up to a still solidly mounted trans with little or no noise transfer to the interior of the car" .
> 
> :thumbup::beer:


 Thats cool! If I wasn't aiming for the 1" raise to keep the axle geometry happy I would have wished I saw those before! I'm pretty sure the whole car will be uncomfortable in the ways of regular road going vehicles, but I hope its worth it! If not I'll start sound deadening and changing things for comfort.. but being in my early 20's now I hope I have some time before it bothers me :laugh: 




Euro Skank said:


> Awesome! Thanks for the fast reply sir. I'm going to strive for meeting you at h2o. I must see your bug in person!
> 
> I just have too many cars that need to be played with. The super is on the top of my list.
> 
> ...


 No problem haha! I'm glad your asking in this case too so I can save you some stress.. Drop spindles will NOT work for supers! The only thing you can do in the front is to get the Maxx struts, Adjust-a struts, or sport springs. Check out this link, this is all the goodies you can put on your front end. 
http://toplineparts.com/lower-your.html 

If you have the three bolt bottom struts like the year splits are shown on toplines site, I recommend THIS and THIS 

For the rear I just had a decent pair of shocks, THESE 

To lower the rear of an air cooled you have to re-index the torsion bar, it's easy once you get the idea of it.. You can find a lot of good info on thesamba.com or check out some video's like this one, 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocO0Tf8z_vQ 

Another handy tool to have, 
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc42/OFWH/259202.jpg 



Jade Wombat said:


> Just curious what sort of track days you will be doing? This is roadcourse I'm assuming. The rules may dictate where and how you mount your cage and fuel cell.


 That is a good question, as of now this car is just for me to take to whatever racetrack I please, or better yet where ever lets me run the car. There aren't any local series that I'm building this for, just something I've always wanted to do. The only event I regularly would take the car to that I know about at this time is a local autocross group, they have classifications but I'm confident this will be "in a class of its own" since there is nothing else similar to it in the line up. 

Might be silly or a waste to build a "Race car" for no race, but to me this more of a fun car. If I were to seriously start racing I'd probably get into a formula vee!


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

superveedub said:


> buggyman, has anyone ever told you that you're a wealth of information? I really appreciate all the ideas and advice :thumbup:.


 Thanks Sv  , 
Isht:laugh: happens every now & then: 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3101675-Thanks-Buggyman!&highlight=cyberblushing 
http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=5287.0 

_Something_ here may help toward the cage installation http://www.google.com/#bav=on.2,or.&fp=42b996edc70ade33&q=RLR+motorsports+vw+cage+installation  , I'd install the cage correctly for full safety 1st _then_ design/buy running gear solutions based on it's pre-existing location . 
_Pretty_ sure the extra rear crossbar you're showing should _actually_ be the missing man dash horizontal crossbar, a single slanted rear diagonal bar is usually used to counter torque twist of the chassis http://www.google.com/search?um=1&h...effects+of+engine+torque+on+a+vehicle+chassis on a road car while dual bracing is generally used for rollover strength in offroad applications . 

Since I didn't have a pit crew per se I always just kept an eye on the most current sanctioning body safety rules for little tips & tricks http://www.google.com/#bav=on.2,or.&fp=42b996edc70ade33&q=vw+autocross+build+rules in order to never break down out in the middle of nowhere 







 
 . 








:laugh: 
http://www.google.com/#bav=on.2,or.&cad=b&fp=1&q=causes+of+hearing+loss 








Just oval (0) the holes in the bracket upward with a grinder/round file & run a weld bead along the bottom edge of them to relocate the holes higher(O again) to coincide with the thickness of the pad between the bracket & bell housing, then you'll be able to hear those  package tray speakers turned down a little bit:laugh: . Shave down the bottom edge of the bracket accordingly in order to retain/regain road clearance 




 :laugh: . 

:beer:


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## Jade Wombat (Oct 20, 2004)

That's cool, lapping days are pretty frequent at most roadcourses and don't require a cage or fuel cell--not that it is a bad idea to build your car this way just usually when people build up fast track cars it is to be within an inch of the rules.  

I like what this fuel cell is attached to...Fridolin with a W12. :what::what: 

http://www.volksforum.com/forum/sho...102&pp=20&highlight=Ruud%27s+Fridolin+Project


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## Jade Wombat (Oct 20, 2004)

Two others you may want to check out for your build: 

http://www.germanlook.net/forums/showthread.php?t=9953 

http://www.aichlseder.info/d_index.htm


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> Thanks Sv  ,
> Isht:laugh: happens every now & then:
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3101675-Thanks-Buggyman!&highlight=cyberblushing
> http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=5287.0


 Imagine that! :laugh: :thumbup: 

As for the cage, you totally could be right. I sent an email off to RLR just in-case as well to see what they say about it. Instructions did come with the kit and it supposedly should have two rear bars 
!  We will have to see what they say. Either way you're right, safety is definitely the #1 reason I got the cage in the first place, installing it wrong would defeat the purpose! 



Jade Wombat said:


> That's cool, lapping days are pretty frequent at most roadcourses and don't require a cage or fuel cell--not that it is a bad idea to build your car this way just usually when people build up fast track cars it is to be within an inch of the rules.
> 
> I like what this fuel cell is attached to...Fridolin with a W12.
> 
> ...


 WOW! That Fridolin is bonkers! Really cool stuff I appreciate you sharing. The white beetle (Wallys) has been an inspiration to me. Occasionally people I know show discontent for a beetle being my project car, after showing them youtube footage of Wallys car they seem to be less hateful  

Onward to todays progress, 

53 days left, 

Today I started out by cleaning the garage up from my body work extravaganza. Not that it will stay clean very long, but dirty floors in garages drive me nuts! :banghead: As I was finishing up cleaning I heard the unmistakable sound of a big UPS diesel outside. By now that feeling is almost like X-mas morning! My Metalsdepot and CB performance order came in! 
 

The taller pieces are 2'x4' 3003 aluminum sheets, at the bottom of the pile you will see my cut up pieces of 6061 which I originally tried to use for my dash. Turns out it was too brittle to bend the way I wanted it to. 
 

This is what happens to 6061 when you don't know what your doing, and bend it too far! 
 

Anyhow back to tinkering, this time on the engine. I decided to install the new pump and cover I got from CB. Since this thread so far is lacking on the engine pictures, I took a few as I removed the tin. 
 

For viewing pleasures of course. 
 

And how about a up close and personal shot of the cam gear. Artistic huh? 
 


The pump and cover assembly from CB is one of the fancy full flow covers that block oil from traveling up the site towards the bearings and whatnot. Here is the regular style pump (left) next to the full flow one (right). Note the design to the left of the gears on each pump, that's where the magic happens - or rather, doesn't happen! 
 

Through the magic of television, here it is installed. The time it took you to scroll from the above picture to this one, (not reading this yet I'm sure, since pictures make the world go 'round) is actually MUCH faster than installing it. The pump itself was a nice tight fit as it should be. So tight that I was afraid to take it back out when I realized that the studs coming out of my block were too short! Some patience and vice grips cured that, and using the supplied bolts the rest of the install was a breeze. 
 

So I did mention the metals depot order, needless to say a 2x4 sheet of metal comes in a big ole' box. I love big ole boxes because I use them to think of new ideas. After staring at my body work a little more, wondering how I could dress it up a little, it hit me! Or at least a decent idea did. I figure using the cardboard from the shipping box I could mock up a decent cover for the front area of the car. Imagine this, but as a flat and better cut out piece of aluminum. 
 

Feeling in the mood to test fit and scheme on how to fit things, I broke back into my summitracing shipment from the other day. Grabbed the fittings, made sure they atleast threaded into what I needed them to. Started eyeballing fitment, and then realized I needed everything else in the car to figure out where there was room. Fluid control pieces, oil thermostat (180 degrees) and an Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator with boost reference. 
 

Right ok back to doing necessary things. I think now is the time the body has to start coming off, time to wrestle some bolts! First off, steering column. Marked the shaft and u-joint assembly so I can put it back the way it should be. Found out it's notched for the bolt anyways... Oh well, 
 

Time to end the night with the fun stuff, PB blaster and rust! 
 

Body is ready to come off, as soon as I can call my reinforcements to help me lift it off!


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Jade Wombat said:


> That's cool, lapping days are pretty frequent at most roadcourses and don't require a cage or fuel cell--not that it is a bad idea to build your car this way just usually when people build up fast track cars it is to be within an inch of the rules.
> 
> I like what this fuel cell is attached to...Fridolin with a W12. :what::what:
> 
> http://www.volksforum.com/forum/sho...102&pp=20&highlight=Ruud%27s+Fridolin+Project


 _Pretty_ sure what we're lookin' @ there Jade  is a solid front frame mounted FC with a separate cantilever(complicated:banghead: ) suspension 








gas reservoir shock setup http://www.google.com/search?q=cant...a=N&tab=wi&ei=b10AUqP2GaTtigKzloHgAQ#imgdii=_  . 
Pretty much more of a trailer queen show car 








rather than a functional race car: 
http://www.google.com/search?um=1&h...urce=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=AmUAUtfpKcjwiwLLuoG4DQ . 
KISS http://www.google.com/#bav=on.2,or.&fp=42b996edc70ade33&q=kiss+principle  it Sv  . 

:beer::beer:


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## Jade Wombat (Oct 20, 2004)

I never said the Fridolin was a true race car, I said I liked it... 

Definitely not like, well you know, this: 

https://www.google.com/search?q=t1+...e.0.69i57j0l3.7942j0&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

52 days left, 

Today I did not get much done in the sense of progress. I did start to prep for the rest of this week though. Tomorrow my shipment of fiberglass fenders/hood should arrive. Thursday is the day I told all my local buds to expect a call to help me pick the body off the pan. Friday I hope to get my dash bent up so it can be ready to install while the body is off. Onward to pictures. 

First off today, a small box greeted me at home. GPS 4.5" speedometer, has 0-60/elevation/heading/all kinds of goodies. I also had "1303 Turbo" added under the needle for a personal touch. 
 

Next up, prepping for the fenders to show up tomorrow I started my fender stud project. Dry fit this time to make sure everything works when I go to actually install the fenders. Then I'll throw some Blue locktite on them or something. I have fender washers and nuts ready to go on the inside as well as wingnuts to make starting each fender easier. 
 

To prepare for friday I started marking up the new 3003 aluminum. I decided to compensate for the roll cage with this aluminum piece, the factory foam will mostly be cut out. The boxes are designed to fit on either side of the speedometer on top of the dash. I had 6061 cut out since last time, but I dare not bend it 90 degrees. I was hoping to use it for a template, but that wont work, on top of that I can't find my box of drafting goodies. I'll have to look more tomorrow to find my triangles/right angles to re-draw the boxes out. Oh joy! 
 

Here's a quick piece I bent up to show the idea of the dash, or alteast how it will flow. I'm not reinventing the wheel or anything, using factory style body lines, just want a nice uniform clean surface. 
 

Finishing off this less than satisfying day I pushed the car over to get some more room to maneuver the body once its in the air. Note the stack of boxes on the left side of the car.. I don't always hoard parts... but when I do


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

51 Days left, 

Today I got all kinds of goodies in the mail. My fenders and hood did show up in one piece. I ordered a fuel cell finally to fit into the stock location with a little bit of tweaking, that showed up today along with my fuel pump/filters along with a few filters. Another good thing that came in today is my Takata 6-point belts. The green matches my paint even, bonus! 

Started off today by unboxing my fenders and hood. You can imagine how much packaging goes into this kind of thing, finding a new home for the empty boxes and packing materials was a feat to say the least! Front and rear fenders, two inches wider all around. The front I didn't really need wider, but I couldnt find any stock width alternatives in fiberglass. One day I intend to use these and make my own molds so I can modify them a bit and most importantly remake them from carbon fiber. Thats a project for another time though. 
 

Here are the tail lights I received today, nothing super fancy, just nice clean OE styled Hella lenses. Underneath it you see the fuel cell, nothing crazy their either. It's just a relatively inexpensive tank, 8 gallons with a sump. When I get more time on my hands, or when I'm in less of a time crunch build state I'll design a nice tank that fits the way I want it to. Things you can't see at the bottom of that box are - Walbro fuel pump, 100 micron pre pump filter, 40 micron post pump filter, fittings for all of them. 
 

Quick snap of my Takata belts, as a bonus these belts were actually made in Germany. These certainly cost a pretty penny, I think they will be worth it though. 
 

Did a quick trial run for fitting my new fiberglass body parts. Hood fits well but is almost too flat at the top near the window. The sides stick up about 1/4", I think I can "fix" this by using hood pins to attach it. That way I can line it up where It needs to be and make it stay there. 
 

The two inch wider rear fender fits great, and still has the factory mounting location for the tail lights. I think I am most pleased with them, wont even need spacers like I thought. 
 

The fronts however, I will likely need atleast a 25mm spacer to fill the gap from the extra two inches. When/if I make these again from carbon, I'll likely do what I can to narrow them a little, perhaps to 1" or stock sized if I can find a set of straight fenders for molds. Another issue to fix, on the side I test fitted (didnt have the drive to drill all the holes in this one like I did the rear, that was a pain!) there was a gap in the front section. Not sure if its in the fender or the body, but once the other side goes up I'm sure it will be evident.


----------



## westypoo (Jan 17, 2010)

love the build on this. good luck man. keep pushing as the dead line gets closer. i did the same kinda thing when i built my bug for Wuste this year. i basically built mine in 5 months. heres the build thread for my build. good luck man. ill be watching this one.  i will say that as i was looking thru your build thread, i was looking at all your rust repair, and i kept thinking.....i did that, i did that, i did that...haha 
http://germanlook.net/forums/showthread.php?t=11579


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## Jade Wombat (Oct 20, 2004)

I looked at putting hood pins on my bug, but eventually decided against it because I could not find a good place to mount the bases and the angle of the hood/curvature is pretty weird. Anyhoo, rubber baja latches didn't do it for me either so I went with fabbing my own leather hood straps like the old Brit, 356, and Ferraris. 

I got a lot of comments about these straps from people.


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

westypoo said:


> love the build on this. good luck man. keep pushing as the dead line gets closer. i did the same kinda thing when i built my bug for Wuste this year. i basically built mine in 5 months. heres the build thread for my build. good luck man. ill be watching this one.  i will say that as i was looking thru your build thread, i was looking at all your rust repair, and i kept thinking.....i did that, i did that, i did that...haha
> http://germanlook.net/forums/showthread.php?t=11579


 Thanks! As it turns out I'm familiar with your build as well, I actually followed it a bit on instagram as well, Looks Great! :thumbup: 




Jade Wombat said:


> I looked at putting hood pins on my bug, but eventually decided against it because I could not find a good place to mount the bases and the angle of the hood/curvature is pretty weird. Anyhoo, rubber baja latches didn't do it for me either so I went with fabbing my own leather hood straps like the old Brit, 356, and Ferraris.
> 
> I got a lot of comments about these straps from people.


 I don't dislike the look of those straps at all! I assume your hood is still on it's hinges too? I debated about pinning mine on top and bottom because one of my hinges is damaged. The more I think about it the more of a hassle it seems since the cell I bought does not have a remote fill.. I think taking the entire hood off each time would get old! 

Onward to progress, 

50 Days left, 

MAN does taking the body off suck! It actually wasn't bad when I got my make shift pit crew together, and for them to point out which bolts I missed. I certainly have an idea for the hardware to use next time I have to lift the body up. Wish I had an actual lift though, that would make it a breeze. Anyhow, thinking that it would be as easy as picking the body up and walking to the jackstands, I arranged some on the floor, roughly measured to where they should be. 
 

HA yeah right, so after an hour or so of struggling, finally got the car rolled over to another part of the garage. Starting to split the body and pan, my aforementioned BMW caliper buddy decides just to leg press it to get clearance for the jack stands. 
 

Fast forward another hour, some more sweating, cursing, and back pains. The body finally is off. When it goes back on I am for SURE going about it a different way. There is NO WAY I'll be able to put it on with the roll cage in there without a lift or something. May have to do my pan work and outsource a little to a place that has the right equipment. Here is the first shot of the body off, with a lot of helpful feet standing by, happy the pain is over. 
 

Magical floating body, its a little crooked at this time but steady. Man just looking at the pictures again reminds my back of how not great that was. 
 

I decided to take a few pictures of the pan for a "before". Hope the after isn't too far off. 
 

Annnnnd another one, 
 

Man oh man.


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Hi Sv  , I was typin' all this out last night when a forum server went down:facepalm::banghead::laugh: before I could hit the "send" button, so I copied it to my Email ,let's see if this works: 

* 
Dayo Sv  , 
Does that hood have stock hinge mounting points?, if so , try bolting it up to the hinges to see if that alone corrects the bow , if not , consider creating a properly bowed metal angle iron/steel/aluminum tie bar between the hinges maybe even JB welded/somehow bonded to the hood rather than having to pin it since every time you need to get in there while streeting it you'll have to completely remove the hood:banghead: . 
Please pay special attention to your choice of mounting points of your shoulder harnesses: 
"I actually partially tore the left shoulder strap on the Deist harness,one of those "Never try this again" scenarios" 
from 
http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=4336.0 
A sharp edge on my fiberglass seat back ripped into it when basically this 




 @ 0:50 in the vid happened . 
Stock fender 








from 
http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=4472.0 
& 1/4 panel dimensions you should be able to re-verify @ either or both: 
http://www.google.com/#bav=on.2,or....=1974+volkswagen+super+beetle+body+dimensions 
& 
http://www.google.com/search?q=vw w...e=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=iw&ei=3sPgUe3wHKOSiALFsIHgCw  . 
"The fronts however, I will likely need at least a 25mm spacer to fill the gap from the extra two inches." 
Maybe look @ this from a function over/coupled with fashion POV , you'd end up with a wider front track for better stability on turns . 
opcorn::beer:* 

 Now I know that I can just cut & paste a saved draft:thumbup: 

:beer:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

49 days left, 

For once I didn't touch the car. Not out of lack of motivation, but the deal for my brother helping with the body removal was to go to a concert today with him. It was a great concert, just means tomorrow ill have to hussle to make up time!


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

48 Days left, 

Today I got right to it early(ish) in the morning. Feeling guilty about neglecting the car all day yesterday I started by better securing the front suspension. The ball joints I have are from Kerscher tuning in Germany, and were NOT cheap to get over here, so the thought of letting all the weight from the caliper hang on it drove me nuts. I put my struts back on, and then the strut bar. Later on I used a ratchet strap to hold the bar forward in a natural position. 
 

I also figured since I know you guys like pictures, I would take some better pictures of the issues with the floor pans as well as my suspension set up, as well as some body shots. This is the worst of the crusty areas, back of the pan on the drivers side. As you see its a large hole. 
 

This next hole is near the outer seat rail on the passenger side. Not as large, but it is FAR from a pinhole. 
 

Now here's a shot of my 944 Turbo trailing arm/brakes/etc. Inside the torsion housing is the matching 944 turbo torsino bars as well. The axles are (you guessed it) 944 Turbo. I have axle output flanges (not sure if thats the correct term, sounds right though) being installed in the transmission as its being built to accept them. Shocks are KYB gas-a-just, nothing fancy there. 
 

I didn't actually take another picture of my front suspension, but if you scroll up a bit the first picture is the best. Basically its just Maxx struts, 944 NA spindles/brakes, new tie rods, poly eccentric camber bushing for the control arm, and a topline sway bar. Here is a picture of the eccentric camber bushing. 
 

Heres some pictures of the body off from the inside. 
 

One from underneathish, showing the heater channels and how they are still in one piece! 
 


Now for some actual work. I decided now was a good time to remove all the OE brake line, since I would have to rerun it for my twin master cylinder setup. If anyone ever needs to know I roughly measured out the hard line.. Came out to about 11o inches to the rear and 50 or so inches to the front. All the old stuff, 
 

With the brake lines out of the way I started to clean the pans. Removed all the tar-board and sound deadening. Also scrapped up all the body seal goop. The sound deadening really preserved the tunnel underneath it. Kind of cool to see the tunnel how it would have looked 40 years ago. 
 

At some point of the day I did some figuring to see where my pedals could sit. As you will see in the picture, for the pedals to sit in the factory location I'd have to notch the body and pan. This could have been a huge issue but luckily I'm short, so I moved them up a little bit to sit inside the cabin. It may look odd, but I took one of my seats out and set it up about where it would be, then measured where the wheel would be and had it held there. Fit pretty comfortably actually. This gives me room for a new idea to make the throttle work. I figured with the extra space in the back I could mount a pulley back there, making it possible to let the pedal pull the cable from the front like a front engine set up. For aesthetics I could make an aluminum panel to hide the master cylinders. 
 

Now to clean the pans with some power tools to get all the rust out of the way. I found a goofy electric grinder with a wire wheel on it, worked pretty well! Never used one before today ironically, so this next part came as a shock! Actually caught my skin a little bit. As the day went on I realized it must be normal for these wires to shoot off like needles, as I was pulling another one from my clothes or self every few minutes. 
 

Uh-oh, fond some small holes on the passenger front floor board. Guess I'll have to patch up there too. Can't say Im too surprised, but I thought the front was solid. :banghead: 
 

Took a break from grinding the floor boards and decided to test fit the RLR transmission raise plates. I used my paint removal wheel to knock the crud off the transmission horns, RLR mounts, and the factory bolts. I've never seen these bolts clean before, they are pretty nifty. This has put the idea in my head to get a oxidizing set, or something similar to keep the OE look intact while still protecting it from corrosion. Something like this, http://www.eastwood.com/metal-blackening-system-set.html 
 

Here it is temporarily installed. I think I'm going to try and get a aerosol can of my paint code (green one) if I can remember what car I got the chip from. That way I can paint this plate, and other things that I want to match. The color was supposedly a Mercedes Benz color my Dad swears to me, as he was there when I picked it out of the book. Time to do some digging! 
 

Here is a random picture I took, no real story to this one, I just thought it was cool. 
 

Figured I'd give the pan a break for now, I'm to the point were I could POR-15 some of it, but I want to buy some more brushes, a drop cloth, and some more jack stands to keep me from bending over the whole time. Would also make things OH so much easier when I get to doing the bottom of the pan. Here is the before of me tackling the left over glue crap on the rear seat panel. 
 

This is where the needle gun/wire wheel really started to come apart. Worked pretty well but I took it down as far as I could. The wire wheel is no more, but the adhesive crap is 98% gone as well. 
 

That's as far as I got for today outside, now I'm inside looking up this elusive paint code, and researching metal plating techniques. :thumbup:


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> 48 Days left,
> 
> At some point of the day I did some figuring to see where my pedals could sit. As you will see in the picture, for the pedals to sit in the factory location I'd have to notch the body and pan. This could have been a huge issue but luckily I'm short, so I moved them up a little bit to sit inside the cabin. It may look odd, but I took one of my seats out and set it up about where it would be, then measured where the wheel would be and had it held there. Fit pretty comfortably actually. This gives me room for a new idea to make the throttle work. I figured with the extra space in the back I could mount a pulley back there, making it possible to let the pedal pull the cable from the front like a front engine set up. For aesthetics I could make an aluminum panel to hide the master cylinders.


 Dayo Sv  , 
Throwing a pulley into the mix in front of the pedal would reverse the action of the pull from the pedal & actually complicate:banghead: things because you'd also have to add in a http://www.google.com/#bav=on.2,or.&fp=5c267d5c6bedaf66&q=bellcrank , http://www.google.com/#bav=on.2,or.&fp=5c267d5c6bedaf66&q=kiss+principle  . 
Since you already have hydraulic everything else you _could_ just go hydro throttle as well since the bracket is already there as long as _everything_ else is set up correctly http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=5429.msg40245#msg40245 . 
Or you could consider a Morse http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=morse&image.x=17&image.y=7 . 
Or, since you're in to the frame just re-direct the accelerator cable tube further back in the tunnel 








from 
http://www.vwdcqinc.org.au/insideabug-insideabug_63type1 
& either just strategically:vampire::laugh: loop a stock cable in the right spot 








from 
http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=4990.msg34802#msg34802 
or, have a custom one one made by someone like http://store.controlcables.com/servlet/StoreFront . 
Der paint looks like L63H http://www.volksbolts.com/faq/paint-codes.htm Taiga Green http://www.google.com/search?gs_rn=...source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=HDIHUp_eAZS4yAHRlYBI 








from 
http://www.mfestforum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=29569 to me. 
My brother had a Taiga Green 67 bug . 
You can verify this by going to http://www.paintscratch.com/ or just have a local paint provider scan a patch(the bottom 1/2 of your fuel door ) for a match http://www.google.com/#bav=on.2,or.&fp=5c267d5c6bedaf66&q=scanning+a+paint+color . 

:beer:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Buggyman, that green does look pretty darn close! I'll have to look at that color in person. As for the pedal, nothings set in stone as of now but the way I'm thinking with the pulley shouldn't require anything super fancy. When I get to that part I'll draw it up and put it in the thread to check my logic. Hydraulic throttle sounds fancy, but I dont think I would have room for ANOTHER master cylinder! I'm already pressing my luck with three :laugh: 

47 days left, 

The number of days left, and the mountain of work ahead of me is starting to bother me. I really hope I can pull this one together. Anyways, today I started off the day with a supply run. Grabbed some more jack stands to get the car up off the ground, a drop cloth to help keep the floor clean, and some brushes. 
 

After setting the pan up at a more workable level, I started to prepare the front for POR15. The very front of the pan head unbolts. I had no idea honestly being that this is the first time I've had a beetle split. Anyhow, here is is coming off, 
 

I also decided I wanted to paint the control arm mounts and under the sway bar bushings. Why half ass it at this point? I managed to pull what was left of the front suspension out in one piece. BOY was it heavier than I thought, those Porsche brakes are not light at all. 
 

Working on getting all the crud off, as well as overspray from when the car was painted a few years back, 
 

After some more cleaning the fun begins. On go the gloves, out come the cheap foam brushes. As you see the can is about 3/4 full, I made sure to finish it off by the end of the day. 
 

First coat for the front is on, looks pretty good.. It might not NEED a second coat but I intend to go over it again with my next can anyways. 
 

Next come the front pan halves. Fresh black on floor pans really looks purdy, much better than the rusty/worn out mess I had before. 
 

Jumping over to give the body some love, I drilled out the plug welds holding the emissions can bracket on, wont be needing that anymore  
 

Now for the next hour or so I sit on a wheel and use a chisel/putty knife to clean off the left over undercoating. Pain in the ass! 
 

I didn't take a picture of the passenger side finished, or the drivers side before I took the coating off, you'll just have to believe me when I say they were both pretty bad, then they both looked like this. 
 

Now, they both look like this, 
 

Fender wells are all done now, maybe a little touching up here and there, but looking sharp none-the-less. 
 

I was hoping those would finish off the can, but they didn't. By now there was maybe an eight of the can left. Decided to use it on the rest of the tunnel. 
 

That's all for today. Tomorrow I think I'll either tackle the rear suspension+pan area, or start doing some fab work on the pan halves. Or both!


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

46 days left, 

Work was hard and slow going today. Not to mention a little extra stressful due to the humidity in the garage. First thing I did was start cleaning off some more of the factory hardware for the pan head piece. 
 

Not that you can see that nice hardware when installed, but I'll know about it and that's all that matters! Front end of the pan is now "done" save for running the brake lines along it. 
 

Now I deemed it time to work on the rear pan halves. Started by removing the factory seat sliders. By now I figured I had a working knowledge of removing plug welded bits from ACVW's, but everything from this point forward fought me tooth and nail. :banghead: 
 

Now the other side. Note to anyone trying to do this for whatever reason, three beads of weld on top, two on bottom, and four or so plug welds on bottom as well. Don't be like me, I just forced it off since I didn't know about them UNTIL it was off.. Drill from the bottom  
 

The inner seat rails are a bitch. THIS is where I started getting irritated, and went the american 'bigger hammer' route. I intend to cut most of this out for my new floor boards, but there are plug welds on this, and like 5 welds along the back as well. :banghead: 
 

Ended today by removing the drivers side seat hump. It was a pain but not as bad as those seat rails. Also I used the big hammer method here.


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## Jade Wombat (Oct 20, 2004)

I would highly suggest mounting your drivers' seat to the pan and a test fit of your pedal location. Don't guess that it's going just work out, you will be very uncomfortable if the mounting is wrong. I thought along the same lines with my drop-down pedal cluster I used by mounting the clutch and brake first. I'm very tall and the gas pedal situation was a complete compromise. I had planned to mount everything close together to be able to do heel-toe driving. That wasn't gonna happen I found out after the distance between the seat, angles, etc. was clear. 

I agree with Buggy, unless you're doing a DBW engine swap, accelerator cables like a straight-shot front to back with minimal turns. Even the smallest angle creates a lot of cable binding and a heavy gas pedal feel.


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Jade Wombat said:


> I would highly suggest mounting your drivers' seat to the pan and a test fit of your pedal location. Don't guess that it's going just work out, you will be very uncomfortable if the mounting is wrong. I thought along the same lines with my drop-down pedal cluster I used by mounting the clutch and brake first. I'm very tall and the gas pedal situation was a complete compromise. I had planned to mount everything close together to be able to do heel-toe driving. That wasn't gonna happen I found out after the distance between the seat, angles, etc. was clear.
> 
> I agree with Buggy, unless you're doing a DBW engine swap, accelerator cables like a straight-shot front to back with minimal turns. Even the smallest angle creates a lot of cable binding and a heavy gas pedal feel.


 I intend to for sure! Nothing is set in stone yet, after these floor pans go in I'll be able to actually mount the seats, from there I can adjust things as needed. I'll make it work somehow, just not sure exactly what needs to happen yet! Thanks for sharing your experience :thumbup: 

45 days left, 

Spent my time today pulling off the rest of the seat humps on the pan, as well as removing the left over stock slider. Finally got around to making a real template for my floor pans. Gotta love cardboard, 
 

I know these pan halfs probably don't make sense, or look bad to you guys, but you'd have to be in my head to see what they will look like when there done. Or just wait a day or two  Doing some trimming on the first actual metal piece I cut out, 
 

Loosely set down in place. These pans will take place of the entire rear section, following the pan edge all the way up. It will also sit between where the body and pan mate somewhat just to hide the edges, and make a nice strong bond. Steel is 16 gauge, so if all my figuring is on it will be quite strong, and give me some room to play with some under car aerodynamic ideas. 
 

Passenger side now cut out as well. On this side once it is in place I'm going to fab up a battery box to sit down in the pan to help keep the center of gravity down. 
 

Top down view of both pan half piece sitting in place. I have some interesting metal work to do around the outside of the pan in the front of the sheets. There is a gap I'll have to make up, I have a few ideas for it that should look alright. 
 

Now the really good news of today is my transmission is done! Going to pick it up this Saturday. This will help speed things a long for sure. Gotta stay motivated! Tripping over a bag of money to buy a two post lift would be nice too. :laugh:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

44 Days left, 

Continued on today by shaping the floor pan pieces further. Some trimming here and there, getting them to sit nicely in their recess. Few self tappers and clamps later, they are starting to take shape. 
 

Same treatment, drivers side this time though, 
 

Off comes the old pan section, 
 

Some holes for my plug welds. 
 

And some plug welds, lighting is funny on this it still looks like a hole. But its definitely a weld. Being that this is going to be a piece that I want solid, I tacked the pan piece in loosely, and called it a night. There are a few places I'm hoping to have my Dad share his expertise on, he has 30 years of bodywork experience, which is why I even tackle things like this. Worst case scenario he will show me what I did wrong and how to fix it. :thumbup:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

43 Days left,

Picked up where I left off yesterday. Progress went pretty smooth today, minus a hour or so of distraction. Did a little more fitting to the pan via some more self tappers. Closed up the gaps, ready to start tacking more in place now.


A little close up action on some welds, not the best out there, but they're penetrating well.


Some welding action,


And for my next trick, heat treating the pan section to form it correctly. Some heat, some clamps, some hammers, etc


Like thus,


Now to make it permanent. With some help from Mr. Lincoln (and his noble friend Sir Argon) this was no problem!


Tacked in all the way, clamps off! Feels pretty solid, I think I'm going to put a plate over where the seat hump goes for extra strength. 


Adding some more welds to the front, alternating of course to avoid overheating.


Now for the middle school dance portion of this floor pan. By that I mean all kinds of awkward grinding  !


Now here is what it looks like all "done" 


Tomorrow will be more of the same. But on the other side. I ended tonight by starting to cut out the passenger side rear pan area, little more of that and I'll nearly be good to go. One of these days I'll have to go ahead with my backup plan, putting coilovers on my 2012 Beetle. For the ****s and giggles I'll likely update this thread with pictures of that too. Been doing good so far, why skip a day!


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

42 Days left,

Today was mostly a run around day, didn't get anything worth while done. Almost tackled the coilovers on the 12B, then realised daylight was running away fast. Seeing how I cant pull the car into the garage with the 1303 body on jacks it was going to be a driveway thing. 

Hopefully tomorrow is full of progress. In the AM I'll be picking up the trans finally, so atleast there will be some good pictures to show :thumbup:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

41 Days left,

Finally the day to pick up my transmission. I dropped it off back in March, so it's been a long time coming. Long story short, Stock case, Weddle gears polished and welded, LSD, axle cups to adapt to porsche 944 axles. Here it is in the trunk,


Sitting in place on the 1" RLR trans raise. Only the front mount is on, the middle mount needs installed


To install the mid mount on the RLR kit, some of the studs need replaced with longer one, which are included in the kit. Jam nut time! Almost went smoothly, one of the studs was fighting me, so I tack welded a nut on the end to back it out.



Didn't get a good shot of the OE compared to these extended studs but trust me, these are about 20mm longer or so


Mid mount in place. Dimly lit, but you get the idea


Tacked in place, then removed the transmission to finish the welds


Done with the trans for now, set it over by the engine so they could get acquainted with eachother. 


Time to finish cutting out the passenger floor board. I'm all about getting my moneys worth out of cutting discs as you see,


Pan half thrown on the ground,


Setting up the replacement sheet, drilling some holes for good plug welds. 


Gotta love these clamps, makes the outside edge easy to work with.


Also helpful to have a handful of them.


That is where I stopped for tonight. Tomorrow I will finish up that pan half, grind down the welds, and start finishing up the rear suspension clean up. More POR-15 is in my future. I will also finalize the designs for the battery box and my under car air defuser idea. A big reason I'm replacing the pans how I am is to experiment with aerodynamics.


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> 41 Days left,
> 
> I will also finalize the designs for the battery box and my under car air defuser idea. A big reason I'm replacing the pans how I am is to experiment with aerodynamics.


I see where you're goin' wit dat https://www.google.com/#bav=on.2,or.&cad=b&fp=1&q=undercar+aerodynamics Sv  .

:thumbup::beer:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> I see where you're goin' wit dat https://www.google.com/#bav=on.2,or.&cad=b&fp=1&q=undercar+aerodynamics Sv  .
> 
> :thumbup::beer:


Exactly, I've been looking up ideas for a while now, I think I finally have a few I can implement without disrupting the air that helps pull heat out from under the engine. :thumbup:

40 Days left. 1/3 of my time gone, Ack!

Today I started by finishing the passenger pan section. A little heating and beating just like the last one. Here is the problem area before,


and after some heat/beat


Some more plugging and stitching and here we are,


About this time some reinforcements showed up. I put him to work removing the rear suspension and cleaning the years of gunk off of the frame horns/torsion tubes


After that came cleaning the actual suspension, which I also delegated to my amigo. Some WD40 and a scotchbrite is all that happen on the aluminum but what a difference it made. During this time I was working on removing the remnants of the seat humps. Before example,


After,


Finished removing the remnants of the seat humps,


Time to start making my welds pretty, some 36 grit does the job just fine!


Around this time my reinforcement had to hit the dusty trail, that's OK though, any help is good help! (This is also a subtle hint to my friends that read this to COME HELP SOMETIMES !  )

Anyhow, I decided it was time to tackle the battery box. I had a extravagant box drawn up, which I realized would NOT work with how the pans took shape. No matter, I adapted and made a more sleek design I think. A few cuts into the shape of the pans and I leveled out an area for my battery. Some pictures in the making of,


The frame I bent up,


tic-TACK-toe


Tossed the battery in just to check it out, it is over sized on purpose yes, I figured I would have room put some kind of mat down if I wanted, or one day I may have a different shaped battery.


Pleased with the fitment I go ahead and throw some-throw some beads on that bitch,


Now here is the cool part I think, A nice smooth shape on the bottom. I will probably add some fun bits to the underneath off of this as well, hopefully adding some clever direction to the undercar air. 


More pictures.


Neat picture showing the pan rising around the battery box,


Upon finishing the batter box, I decided to pick up cleaning the trailing arms where my buddy left off, Another before-after kind of picture.




They aren't the cleanest, I could make them nicer if I took the caliper/rotor and whatnot off, but I'm happy with how they cleaned up for now. Tomorrow comes more fab work, if I can get a few friends together to flip the pan I will begin work on the fun aero dynamic aspects of my design. I hope they pay off, I figured if anything they will help air from becoming trapped under the car. :thumbup:


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Dayo Sv  ,
Had you considered a gel battery like a https://www.google.com/#bav=on.2,or.&fp=fe65f1e4882fb7a6&q=optima+battery from https://www.google.com/#bav=on.2,or.&fp=fe65f1e4882fb7a6&q=gel+battery ? .

:thumbup::beer:


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## Jade Wombat (Oct 20, 2004)

Not sure if you've seen this:

http://www.germanlook.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2820&highlight=aero

and this is another great one:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/pors.../625796-how-take-some-guesswork-out-aero.html


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Buggyman I have considered a few different battery types for less weight/better reliability. The current battery in the car is just what I've had in it forever, way too many Cold cranking amps since it used to be my daily in highschool! Once this one decides to move on to other pastures I'll get serious on some battery research to find the most efficient for my needs. I've already had a few suggestions similar to yours as well :thumbup:



Jade Wombat said:


> Not sure if you've seen this:
> 
> http://www.germanlook.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2820&highlight=aero
> 
> ...


I have seen the first one, the second however is new to me! I'm two pages in right now, and already soaking up some good info. There is some comments in there related to not tuning the aerodynamics much before tuning suspension. I will try to take that advice and not go overboard with my designs yet. Thanks for sharing those links :thumbup:


----------



## grantndub (Aug 22, 2008)

Awesome build with a crazy timeline, I am a fan.


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

grantndub said:


> Awesome build with a crazy timeline, I am a fan.


Thanks! Glad you dig it, the time line is indeed crazy. Not sure what I was thinking, but I really just needed a push to get things done! 

39 Days left,

With a little help from my brother I flipped the pan today. Need to do some more massaging on the floor pans I put in around the edges and some welding. I took today mostly to mock up my designs for the underbody aero stuff. Not planning anything crazy, just want to keep some nice direction going under the car. Here are a few shots of the bottom right after I flipped it.






Started off with some easy work opening up the body bolt holes. Started with a 1/8 bit, and worked up with a step bit.


Finished that off with a big bit that was in the drawer.. Closest I had on hand without being too big  Still needs a little cleaning up but the tool I want to use is no where to be found. Oh well onward to floor pan fun


Using a board to get rough dimensions for these "fins" we'll call them. You will see throughout these pictures that they are not perfect in height or length. Using cardboard just the get the curve of the bottom. Once I have all those then I'll be doing the extra work to make sure they are all even once welded in. Inside one with the most curve,


All four cut out decently. Close enough for a shop this size ;P I'll be able to shape them further by sanding to get the perfect fit.


A little tape to hold them down so I can check it out from all angles. I also took a few minutes to make a small cover template for the gap between the rear of the pan and the torsion bar tube. Figured It should help keep the air from going up. 




Little side by side action to see the cover and the gap. I don't know If I want to make this bit permanent, I think I'd go more the bolt on route that way I can get to the trailing arm bolt easily still.


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

GAD!:laugh: this is gettin' good SV  ,
Think maybe a removable rear apron for easier engine access purposes
















from
http://www.superbeetlesonly.com/forum/lofiversion/index.php/t11533-150.html
(others I've seen were just directly pinned to the rear 1/4 panels right through the fender bolt holes ) with _upward_ directed louvers https://www.google.com/search?q=vw+...a=N&tab=wi&ei=hdQSUs-jCsfuyAGkyYHQDA#imgdii=_ 
in order to help create more rear axle down force @ speed, that may also solve your rear heat expulsion dilemma .
A _little_ look @ ACVW based rear wings http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=4118.0 , most shown are for straight forward drag racing purposes but if you were to eliminate the side vertical winglets they could be adapted to twisty road circuit applications _if_ your rules allow them ,gad knows the guy @ ~1;39 into this vid:




 
coulda used one:laugh: .

:beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Buggyman, that is on the list of things to do! I dig the picture though, I think I'll go that route with mine, I hadn't given it much thought until now! :thumbup:

38 Days left,

Started the under pan diffuser / Air guiding fins today. Got one side "done". It took all my time in the garage this eve to get these all cut out, ground to fit, then tacked in. So this post will be more pictures than words.. :thumbup:



One,


Two,


Three! Ahh- Ahh- Ahhhhh


...And four,


Rhyme behind the reason for the stepped sizes.. Make it a little more aesthetically pleasing I suppose, since these probably wont make a world of difference anyways, figured they cant hurt though!


Tomorrow, the other side, and probably cutting out the rest of my gauge boxes. This Thurs/Friday I'm hoping to start the Dash project as well.


----------



## Jade Wombat (Oct 20, 2004)

That aero work is very interesting, should clean up the flow on the underside nicely. One thing, if you can do this at different stages is some simple testing of the flow characteristics before and after you make mods. It's easy as pie. You can buy a maghelic gauge off the ebays for about $20 or just make one with some tubes for about $1. This testing is pretty much invaluable I've found.

Example, before adding front spoiler get some readings on the underside by the front apron, mid-section of the pan, and rear apron at 50mph (a few passes back and forth). Then install spoiler, re-test, etc.

My car wasn't for high speeds, it was primarily short course. You start doing progressively higher speeds up near 70, 80, +90 as Buggy alluded to you really need to have your ducks in a row to make sure the car is stable and safe. I really like how this project is going....:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Jade Wombat said:


> That aero work is very interesting, should clean up the flow on the underside nicely. One thing, if you can do this at different stages is some simple testing of the flow characteristics before and after you make mods. It's easy as pie. You can buy a maghelic gauge off the ebays for about $20 or just make one with some tubes for about $1. This testing is pretty much invaluable I've found.
> 
> Example, before adding front spoiler get some readings on the underside by the front apron, mid-section of the pan, and rear apron at 50mph (a few passes back and forth). Then install spoiler, re-test, etc.
> 
> My car wasn't for high speeds, it was primarily short course. You start doing progressively higher speeds up near 70, 80, +90 as Buggy alluded to you really need to have your ducks in a row to make sure the car is stable and safe. I really like how this project is going....:thumbup::thumbup:


Thanks! :thumbup: I may have to grab one of those gauges soon so I can do some actual research instead of just "that looks good, I guess" designing!

37 Days left,

Tomorrow is the day for starting the dash project. I spent today cutting out my aluminum bits to have bent up. 


Here is the dash, the bit sticking up will be where the speedometer cutout is. The rectangle underneath that is what will be cut out for the steering column.


This is a box I designed to sit into the top of my dash, on the right of the speedometer bump. Should be able to fit most of my gauges in here. Due to the angle, some of them will not be easy to see from the drivers seat.. I'll probably reserve those for my less crucial gauges, Volt will definitely be at the end.. lol
 

This smaller goofy shaped box will be on the left of the speedometer. Only one gauge will fit here, might use the space next to it for a toggle switch or shift light. Probably putting the boost gauge or AFR here.


Finished off the night by mocking up some more diffuser fins for the other side. 


Tomorrow if all goes will i'll have some pictures of the gauge boxes and dash panel. :thumbup:


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> *Thanks! :thumbup: I may have to grab one of those gauges soon so I can do some actual research instead of just "that looks good, I guess" designing!*
> 
> 37 Days left,
> 
> ...


Dayo Sv  ,
*Things that* I ran across while staring @ your pics:
http://www.google.com/#fp=aa83bdf441d608d0&q=magnehelic+gauge&spell=1 

http://www.google.com/#fp=aa83bdf441d608d0&q=magnehelic+gauge+chassis 

https://www.google.com/#bav=on.2,or.&fp=fe65f1e4882fb7a6&q=ladder+support+a+chassis 

https://www.google.com/search?q=cro...&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=iw&ei=17IRUvfEHIGwyQG22IFI 

https://www.google.com/search?q=cro...3bdf441d608d0&hl=en&q=angle+support+a+chassis 

https://www.google.com/search?q=cro...df441d608d0&hl=en&q=lateral+support+a+chassis 

http://www.google.com/patents/US20130181483 
from
https://www.google.com/search?q=cro...&hl=en&q=horizontal+support+a+chassis&start=0 

But what _may_ come in as most helpful would be to think of the bottom of the car as an inverted wing http://www.google.com/#fp=aa83bdf441d608d0&q=profile+of+a+wing 

http://www.google.com/#fp=aa83bdf441d608d0&q=profile+of+an+inverted+wing 
where the front, center, & rear portions of the underside of the car car have contoured reliefs built into them, the angle of attack would just be proportioned by using the spanner wrench on your coilovers








(need both front _&_ rear ride height adjustability for _any_ of this to apply) in order to set your "trim" from track to track, this is where a movie comes into play http://www.youtube.com/results?sear...j1.8.0...0.0...1ac.1.11.youtube.LA EZ9l1dkoM (_not_ the Star Trek one:laugh: ).
Upward louvering on the fender backs:




(Heck!, there's even a chin spoiler on the front of his helmet seen in the right mirror @ only 0:01 sec into the vid:banghead: ) :laugh: .

:thumbup:opcorn::beer:


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## Volkdent2 (Jan 16, 2004)

I haven't seen you at GermanLook Forums, are you a member? Looking good, lot's of work!

Jason


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Buggyman, as always some interesting ideas! The upside-down wing concept is very appealing, I may have to try to throw that in the design. My suspension is adjustable in the front, the rear as of right now is all in the torsion bars still. Thanks for sharing:thumbup:



Volkdent2 said:


> I haven't seen you at GermanLook Forums, are you a member? Looking good, lot's of work!
> 
> Jason


Thanks Jason! I have been there before many-a-time. I'm 99% sure I'm a member, as well as on thesamba/SBO/shoptalk/etc.. To be honest my build thread is only in this forum because its the only one I can check from work  but SHHHH don't tell anyone. :thumbup:

36 Days left,

Today as I mentioned yesterday, was the day for aluminum bending. I finally got my boxes and dash bent up with the help of a family friend. This family friends project car makes mine look like a toy, more on this later.

Started off on the 7 foot brake, and the 3000lb table behind it. Since I was in a hurry and trying to be helpful the pictures aren't the greatest. Tomorrow I'll take a few decent ones showing how they will look in the car. Here is mid progress on the dash itself.


Finished that up, onward to the small box. Since this aluminum is pretty soft a box brake wasnt needed. Just some clamps, wood chunks, a deadblow hammer, and a table weighing more than a car.


That went pretty smooth, before I knew it all my aluminum was formed.


Before the 45 minute drive back home I grabbed some pictures of his car. It's all tube chassis, 3000hp... fast.


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

35 Days left,

Picking up where we left off yesterday how about some better pictures of the dash stuff. Here is the profile of the dash I'll be using. There was no way to get a picture with it against the dash since the wheel is in the way. But hopefully this gives you an idea.


The box to the left of the speedo. This and the other box will be mounted into the dash (around where you see the chalk), and should look nice and streamlined. There is a separate cover for each piece that will be removable so I can access the gauge wiring/bulbs easily.


And the larger "passenger" side box. Needless to say everything in the dash will be gutted before I start cutting into it. I want to save as much of the black as I can so the fit looks more "factory" if that term is even applicable..


Onward to this evenings fabrication. Finishing up the passenger side diffuser section. This side was a bit more tricky due to the battery box, but I'm pleased with how it came out. After a little of this,


And that,


I grabbed this (my new Eastwood welding mask, figured It was about time I got my own instead of using my Dads)


Now to start tacking the pieces in. Side note here, the new mask works great.. If you need a decently inexpensive mask that's easy to use and worth the money.. get you one.

One, 


Two,


...Cough-Four, ah ah ahhh.. (seems I skipped #3)


And now my little diffuser project is finished. Atleast the fabrication part.






Tomorrow I'll grab some decent etching primer/cleaner to make the POR15 actually stick to the new smooth metal, and get to painting. After a little bit of stitch welding and grinding I should be mostly done with this section of the build. If all goes well by the end of tomorrow my update will contain "finished" pans. Still need to mount the seat rails and pedals, but I will be able to paint over little parts later, so that should be no biggie. :thumbup:


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## Jade Wombat (Oct 20, 2004)

Check with OWDLVR on GL.net, I seem to remember he had a problem with bare metal and POR-15. I don't remember what it was but it peeled off or something. Scroll back a through the last few pages if you have time:

http://www.germanlook.net/forums/showthread.php?t=11341&page=32


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Jade Wombat said:


> Check with OWDLVR on GL.net, I seem to remember he had a problem with bare metal and POR-15. I don't remember what it was but it peeled off or something. Scroll back a through the last few pages if you have time:
> 
> http://www.germanlook.net/forums/showthread.php?t=11341&page=32


Jade, 

Just after painting the smoother parts of my old metal even I've noticed a little bit of flaking. POR really does love the rough surfaces. Today I did grab some POR ready prep stuff, not sure what the name was but its an etching solution to promote adhesion. Also I was told that running 80 grit over pieces will help the POR stick too. :thumbup:

34 Days left,

Well the early part of today was not as progress filled as I'd hoped. Late start due to sleeping past my alarm, running to my usual Saturday supply places (summit racing and my local air cooled shop), then helping out with some chevy truck brakes.. Anyhow, started off with the floor pans of course. 

Here is my gap to close. On top this is the section I had to heat and beat to fit. 


Few relief cuts, starting out here and taking more as I needed it.


Ended up cutting it all decently far back. Still have a nice overhang for strength though. 


Up close and personal


Trimming the edges for the best fit. No gap is good gap


Near the back the gap was large since that is where the OE pans dropped down most aggressively. Cut slots in the metal to make it easier to bend down. Lots of hammering today.. Really felt it after a while!


Getting ready to weld everything in place,


Pretty sturdy. Needs ground still though


Insert dinner break here. Also I ended up grabbing my stock pile of stickers.. Ended up on my new helmet. Just trying to protect the finish 


Starting on the passenger side now


Everything beat down,


Passenger side is ready to weld now minus some cleaning up with the sanding disc. Figured I'd save that for the morning, it was getting pretty late. Tomorrow hopefully I'll get a good early start and make todays progress look like a weekdays. It is getting SERIOUSLY close to H2O now. Unless things fall into place better than they have so far I'm no so sure I'll have this thing done in time.. Trying to stay positive! Even if it wont be ready I'll be updating this thread until it is. :thumbup:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

33 Days left, (Man oh man.)

Alright so today I started off with finishing the floor pan welding. You can never have too many clamps when it comes to welding.


All done. 


Of course around this time I leaned on one of the fins, knocked a tack weld off. Decided to go back over all of them with a few beads. I can assure you they're not coming off now!




I had no one to help me pull the pan outside (around the body.. without scratching it) so I decided to work on the dash. First off it has to come out. First time taking a dash out of a car, since wiring is NOT my thing I was always afraid to unplug everything. Got over that easily knowing I have to re wire it anyways..


Nice OE paint.


Here is the dash out, on my makeshift workbench. Aka the pans..


Inside of a 1303 dash. Everything on the back side is metal, if I ever do this to another car I think I'll just strip the foam, bead blast the backing metal and paint it. I bet it would look decent!


Speaking of stripping off foam..


More foam gone, cleaned up the left over goop with a paint removal wheel.


After preparing the dash a bit, I decided to connect my boxes together. I left tabs in case I decided to use hardware. Ended up using some aluminum rods and the acetolyne torch to "solder" them together. Worked out pretty well, still want a TIG though.


Cutting through the foam to fit these boxes turned out to be very tedious. Hope it looks good when Im done. I'm confident it will because I wouldn't put it in the car until it did 


Fast forward a few hours of grind/check/grind/check/grind/sand/check/sand/...etc. I also notched the speedo bump to put the main dash piece in. Needs tweaked, but this gives a decent in progress view.


Profile of the dash. All kinds of room for gauges/switches/lights/whatever now.


This last picture marked 10 hours of on/off garage time. Tomorrow likely more fitting for the dash. Need to get the wiring stuff in one sock here pretty soon as well. There is no shortage of work to be done, a dire shortage of time though. :thumbup:


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## phill0046 (Oct 14, 2005)

Looking awesome!! Cant wait to see it in person!!


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## christofambrosch (Jul 5, 2011)

I wish I could have joined this party sooner. This is amazing and look forward to following this!


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

phill0046 said:


> Looking awesome!! Cant wait to see it in person!!


Thanks! Hope it makes it :thumbup:



VR_Kraut said:


> I wish I could have joined this party sooner. This is amazing and look forward to following this!


:beer: Thanks!

32 Days left,

Kept on trimming the dash today. Its tedious for sure! Here is the gap I had to deal with. Ended up using some 2x4s and a hammer to "unbend" it a little for better fitment. 


Here it is after. I also cut a groove in the foam to slide the piece into. 




The dash in the car held on by hopes and dreams,


Anudder angle


Since I didn't want the dash to be the only thing I worked on, I used a carbide bit and ground out the body mounting holes too.


I feel like I'm running into a rut, which is no bueno. Tomorrow along with the usual try to get all the things done, I'm going to spend a few minutes to re-prioritize my to do list. That means removing the things that are done, and drawing out my current goals. :thumbup:


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## paintballguy424 (Mar 4, 2009)

I don't own an air cooled but viewing your updates everyday is awesome. Keep it up. 


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

paintballguy424 said:


> I don't own an air cooled but viewing your updates everyday is awesome. Keep it up.


Glad you're enjoying the thread :thumbup: :beer:

31 Days left,

Today I started off with some brain storming, and organizing my existing board of things to do into what I NEED to do soon. First and foremost the pan needs to get finished. I decided not to overload myself, so I can focus on doing just that, finishing the pan.


Today I spent my actual working time making the larger of the two front patches. This is the holy land for today,


Ended up using a piece of the parts beetle scrap I had laying around for the patch. All the stuff I have laying around new is 16 gauge, and a little heavy to work with for this kind of thing. This OE metal feels more like 18 gauge or so, much easier to bend/shape.


Little more shaping and I'm good to go. Put my outline on the pan, very lightly with pencil since my sharpie is MIA.


Cut out carefully, 


Patch piece sanded down and set in place. Now comes my favorite thing, butt welding, AKA filling in the holes when I burn through. 


Actually didn't go too bad, only had one thin spot that I had to give special attention to.


Sanded it down, and ran out of steam for today. I think I'll have to start drinking my coffee AFTER work from now on.. 


Tomorrow I have another much smaller patch to do up front, and I want to make some brackets to attach some more aero pieces to the pan. The "torsion gap" covers as we'll call them. Depending how that goes I may flip the pan back over tomorrow to start eye-balling the seat tracks. I dont think I want to actually install them permanently yet, but I need to get a feeling on where/how I'm going to install them. :thumbup:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Morning update, had to pay photobucket since you all killed my free bandwidth :laugh: Many more photos to come now, Since I have an extra 20GB to fill I'll try to use it :thumbup:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

30 Days left... 1/2 of the way there. Lets see if I can pull this together!

Started off with the front patches.. These two little holes.


Some more spare metal from the scrap I had laying around. Two little patches. Should be easy right?


So far so good, Trimming/shaping/trimming etc


Cut out the shapes..


Looking good, patches fit well, time to tack,


So between the whole things are going well thing, and now, some not fun happened. Went to tack the pieces in, more rust came through, holes happened. I would have taken a picture but I go mad and cut it all out first. So now we're here,


To salvage the operation here, made a bigger patch. Fit it in there after some hammering. IT should do fine,


Looks like I meant to do it like this. Patch is all done on this side, due to how I put it in I'm going to have to finish it up when I flip the pan. No biggie though.


Some more template work for the torsion covers..



Then I started the brackets,


At this time, I remember I didn't turn my argon bottle off. Going to go do that, Until next time!:thumbup:


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> Morning update, had to pay photobucket since *you all killed my free bandwidth :laugh:* Many more photos to come now, Since I have an extra 20GB to fill I'll try to use it :thumbup:


*:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::thumbup:*

Question though Sv   ,
In this pic








aren't those plates gonna actually be facing _down_ward once you flip the pan back over?
You want to(bear with me here )




 :laugh: 
_suck_ the back end down @ the rear @ speed for more traction rather than _push_ it _up_ward once airflow starts to become a factor .
If this is an illusion & they're actually setting neutral then ignore my comment but I'd think to _elongate_ them a _little_ farther forward toward the vertical flutes you created under the pan to either set them @ neutral with the pan or slanted upwards toward the rear so as to act as an undercar spoiler _pulling_ the rear down @ speed which should allow you to use a less wide & aggressive rear tire choice so that you could accelerate quicker @ lower speeds .
http://www.google.com/#q=tilting+your+hand+up+and+down+out+the+window+of+a+moving+car

:beer:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> *:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::thumbup:*
> 
> Question though Sv   ,
> In this pic
> ...


Buggyman, 

I share your same concern. My mock up pieces did not show too much of a steep grade, the real pieces as we will get to today do. I have an idea for it, but we'll get to that. Good call!

29 Days left,

Starting off today where I left off yesterday, finishing up the brackets for the rear aero pieces. Here you see me drilling a hole, fascinating I'm sure!


Fast forward a few holes later, all four brackets loaded into a clamp to tack the nuts on. Used the bolts to tighten the nuts where I wanted them.. Worked out pretty well!


Quite toasty by now, time to do something else while they cool,


Took some time to fine tune my template, then made an aluminum cut out. Some more fine tuning on that, then I used it to make the other side.


Two sides sitting where they will go,


Back to the brackets. A little grinding later, and they are ready to start tacking into place.


Like so,


Rinse and repeat for the other side,


Some fun measuring and drilling, and now the first side is mounted. THIS is where the angle comes into play. Notice where my finger is, I think I'm going put a bend here to flatten out the piece. Only would need like 20 degrees or so to flatten it out I'm thinkin, Thoughts?


Finished the other side. Note how dirty it is, finger prints and what not..


Decided to clean that side.. WD-40 and a scotch-brite... Then I got the idea to put the scotch brite chunk under my sander.. Not too shabby 


Tomorrow will be likely bending these pieces, then flipping the pan over to do some figuring for the seat rails. Also tomorrow I'm going to look at a local Porsche 931, as if I don't have enough projects -___-. I've always wanted a front engine rear drive car with flip up headlights though.. We'll see what the deal is with that tomorrow


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

28 Days left,

Today I went and looked at the 931. Was alright, for sure resprayed at one point, few rough spots as well. Supposedly it doesn't run because there is no spark! Im sure its more than that... Oh well!

Put a bend in the rear aero pieces. Not too terrible, the bend is different i know, but I'll fix it once I put it ALL together. 


Flipped the pan over, time to finish the patch on this side.


All done,


Already pretty late by this time, and next on the list is taking the pan outside to use the metal etcher. Will have to wait until the morning though!


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

27 Days left,

Todays post will be photo filled. Finally got the pan out and cleaned up. Went pretty well! On to the good stuff.

Lugged the pan out into the driveway, after moving a bunch of cars.


A little removing of ground straps and left over hoses, and were about ready to start etching.


Hard to tell in the picture, but the pan is soaking in the metal etching spray. The sun helped it along, but also dried it up quickly. 


Decided to douche out the tunnel itself. (Dont worry I dried it out with the compressor too)


Spraying off the etcher with the hose as directions called for. Good news is that my pan replacements are water tight (at least to small leaks)


Time to start on the bottom!


After the same treatment with the etcher, hosing off the bottom. I guess this is a lame wind tunnel test, but it was amusing.


This is just a cool shot of water drops forming in the body mount holes,


After some drying action


All dry, starting the POR-15ing


Getting some good coverage


Looks nice all in the same color


Finishing up on the bottom


Flip it over, start painting the top 


Progress! All painted


Threw the pan on the rollers and got it under the body where it belongs. Tomorrow will be some fun mock up times for the dash/seats/starting of the pan




:thumbup:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

26 Days left,

With the help of two good pals, I got a lot more POR-15ing done today. Almost have everything covered! Lots of pictures, so lets get to them.

Started off today cleaning up the firewall area. Getting the wires out of the way, removing old gaskets and tar board. This is what It looked like this morning.


Trying to knock the foam out a little on the sides as well.


Tar board. I have a special kind of hate for this stuff


Took some time to clean up underneath the package tray area as well. Lots of caked on dirt up here, not much rust though!


Found a visual reminder of a wiring issue I had in the past. Was a whole lot harder to get the smoke back into the wires than it was to get it out.. :banghead:


One of my helping hands starting on cleaning the firewall area enough for POR-ing


Looking good!


While he was taking on that bucket of fun, I decided to get some color on my trans mount.


Not too shabby for rattle can eh? VHT Chassis and Rollcage paint, I recommend!


Came back in to the under package tray area being scuffed up nicely.


Around this time my second set of helping hands showed up. Had him start on the inside portion of the firewall/package tray area


Preparing the area behind the running boards for POR as well. The bottom of the quarters/doors never got painted when it was supposed to. (Painter never bent down to spray up!..)


Shortly there after one of my buddies and I tackled the front section of the body.


All cleaned up ready for painting


Few minutes later... Terrible lighting here, but you get the idea!


Front area


Firewall area


Underneath the package tray is done too, my picture didn't turn out unfortunately. Ran out of POR before everything could really be called done, but got damn close. Another coat on some of the spots, a few spots underneath the body in the front and we should be sealed up! Tomorrow will be more of this (If summit is open to buy more POR) and perhaps some wiring discussion with my electrically enthused co-worker whom is due to join the fun.:thumbup:


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## phill0046 (Oct 14, 2005)

3 day weekend! Do work!


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

phill0046 said:


> 3 day weekend! Do work!


:beer::beer: Doing all kinds of work! Wanted to get more POR 15 today, but Summit racing was closed. Can't say I'm surprised but I had to fill the day doing other things!

25 Days left,

Started off today by driving to Summit. Should have called, but felt like taking a little cruise! After that joyride, got to working on the bug. Since I didnt have any POR, I used some VHT chassis paint I had laying around to touch up some spots. Didnt grab any pictures of that, but its more black now.

Now to doing some figuring and mocking up for my oil cooler. First off have to assembly it to get accurate measurements/see what I can change about it.


Looking good,


Some scrap aluminum I found to fit the parcel tray area. Not bad for leftovers! Also you will see about where the oil cooler will sit. Going to find a way to mount the cooler on the bottom under the car, and the fan inside the car. Will have to fab a box for it to be in, and then a duct will suck in air from outside for the fan. The aluminum to the left of the fan is where I think I'll mount the electric brains/whatever else needs to be back here.


Here it the cooler mounted up underneath the car. Likely I'll have to move this a little, I'm not 100% certain it will clear the throwout bearing arm/clutch arm,


Speaking of electric brains, heres some of the fun bits that will be mounted there. Dug them out for measurements.


Put the trans back on the pan as well, along with the clutch slave cylinder.


From here I started messing with the dash some more. For some reason this kind of work drags on for me, although seeing the finished(er) product makes it worth it. Cut the gauge holes in the boxes, then smoothing out the surface a bit.


I decided to use my new trick some more on the rest of my dash aluminum. Scotch-brite and a sander.


More of the same and now were getting pretty close.


In the car.


Still need to mount the boxes and main piece to the dash. Right now its all clamps, friction, or gravity. Once the lower section is solidly mounted, I'll work the speedo hole, switches, and LEDs/Gizmos.

Tomorrow I'm waking up early to go to my local welding supply store to buy some MIG wire suitable for my rollcage. Then after work will be a trip to summit for POR/resin gel/misc things to finish the pan, body, and dash. :thumbup:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

24 Days left,

Not too much progress today. I did get the mig wire for the 4130, and installed it. Went to summit to get more POR and some duraglass for the dash. By the time I got into the garage it was already dark. Heres what I did.

Decided to reuse the heater flange for one of my air ducts to the cooling fan.


Finally got to pull the steering box out, anyone out there have a good link to show what I can do to "Refresh" this when its out, I'd appreciate it!


Started to clean the underside of the front off for some more POR action. 


By this time I'm beat, I was up early to get the mig wire, and out late to get the POR. Tomorrow I'll have to hustle to get some work done.


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## Jade Wombat (Oct 20, 2004)

Amigo, that is a good place to mount your cooler in regards to keeping everything close to the center of the gravity but I would suggest mounting it not flush with the metal. Mount it with some space behind it and figure out an air duct to channel up there or if the rows are continuous you could mount the duct with exposure to the sides to circulate across the vanes. Even with the fan mounting inside of the car you probably won't get much cooling effect and that will be quite a bit of noise.

To get cooling you need to carry the heat away and for that you need a pressure differential across the cooler. That area up and around the trans is a low-pressure area and does not get much circulation on its own. Radiators are mounted up front on most cars because there is a very, very high pressure area just in front of the bumper and a comparatively lower pressure area in the engine compartment. I.e. the air wants to flow through the radiator. If the pressure is equal on both sides of a radiator, cooler, etc. nothing will flow without a fan pulling or pushing. Excellent article:

http://www.autospeed.com/A_2159/cms/article.html

Added "exposure" of a bigger oil cooler, and the lines running up to it, etc. does not mean your engine will run cooler either. Why? To push all of this extra oil through all this extra yardage makes your oil pump and in turn your engine work harder. Sorry, no free lunch. From my experience I have not found this to be the case _except_ for track or off-road cars which are moving almost all of the time. VW did a very good job taking high pressure air rolling across the back of the car and channel it down and across the oil cooler in a very narrow area to push a lot of CFMs in a small amount of space where a low(er) pressure area of airflow pulls this hot air out the back away from the car (why the engine seal is so critical). Here's my over-simplistic analogy of "added" exposure and cooling, on a 90 degree day outside with no wind which would keep you cooler--exposing as much surface area of your body by flapping your arms and legs around in circles and running as fast as you can? Or taking a couple of magazines and fanning yourself as much as possible?

Man, this car is really coming together. I'm quite jealous that you're getting more done in two months that would have taken me six or more with my time schedule.


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> 24 Days left,
> 
> Finally got to pull the steering box out, anyone out there have a good link to show what I can do to "Refresh" this when its out, I'd appreciate it!


Dayo Sv  ,
Please check these out :








from
https://www.google.com/#q=rebuilding+a+vw+steering+box  .

:beer:


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Jade Wombat said:


> Amigo, that is a good place to mount your cooler in regards to keeping everything close to the center of the gravity but I would suggest mounting it not flush with the metal. Mount it with some space behind it and figure out an air duct to channel up there or if the rows are continuous you could mount the duct with exposure to the sides to circulate across the vanes. Even with the fan mounting inside of the car you probably won't get much cooling effect and that will be quite a bit of noise.
> 
> To get cooling you need to carry the heat away and for that you need a pressure differential across the cooler. That area up and around the trans is a low-pressure area and does not get much circulation on its own. Radiators are mounted up front on most cars because there is a very, very high pressure area just in front of the bumper and a comparatively lower pressure area in the engine compartment. I.e. the air wants to flow through the radiator. If the pressure is equal on both sides of a radiator, cooler, etc. nothing will flow without a fan pulling or pushing. Excellent article:
> 
> ...


:thumbup: Jade  ,
+ that that cooler is mounted crossways rather than vertical to the direction of the car where much more air would flow through the cooler vanes .
Rotate it 45* @ least which _may_ allow to just duct around it @ an angle for clearance, but ,nothing else works much better than a well buttoned up Dog House:
http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=4990.0 
http://www.google.com/#q=vw+dog+house+oil+cooler  Sv  .

:beer::beer:


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## Jade Wombat (Oct 20, 2004)

buggyman said:


> but ,nothing else works much better than a well buttoned up Dog House:
> http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=4990.0
> http://www.google.com/#q=vw+dog+house+oil+cooler  Sv  .
> 
> :beer::beer:


Agreed, a T4 cooler in a doghouse is usually all that is needed for a bigger engine. :thumbup:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Jade Wombat said:


> Amigo, that is a good place to mount your cooler in regards to keeping everything close to the center of the gravity but I would suggest mounting it not flush with the metal. Mount it with some space behind it and figure out an air duct to channel up there or if the rows are continuous you could mount the duct with exposure to the sides to circulate across the vanes. Even with the fan mounting inside of the car you probably won't get much cooling effect and that will be quite a bit of noise.
> 
> To get cooling you need to carry the heat away and for that you need a pressure differential across the cooler. That area up and around the trans is a low-pressure area and does not get much circulation on its own. Radiators are mounted up front on most cars because there is a very, very high pressure area just in front of the bumper and a comparatively lower pressure area in the engine compartment. I.e. the air wants to flow through the radiator. If the pressure is equal on both sides of a radiator, cooler, etc. nothing will flow without a fan pulling or pushing. Excellent article:
> 
> ...


 ^:laugh::thumbup:


Jade,

The cooler is mounted up just to check the clearance. Whats going to end up happening is I'm cutting that section out of the parcel shelf area, reinforcing it with a small box (for rigidity) and mount the fan on top with some mesh type stuff between them. From there, I'm sealing off the top of the system to keep the hot air/noise out of the cabin. I have a naca duct system I'll be running to the top of it for fresh air flow. This should provide plenty of airflow, if not then the fan kicks on! The oiling system will also be controlled by a thermostat, so until the temp is in the 180 degree range, this larger cooler will be 90% bypassed, 10% still will travel through it to keep pressures in check. 

Another un-described portion of my engine, is that I have a LOT into the engine cooling. My on block oil cooler IS a type 4. My shroud is widened for it, and has flaps permanently attached in the hopes of creating more velocity to force the heat down off the jugs. I'm also using a wider balanced fan, and a venturi ring on the shroud for more velocity. That along with using a complete set of tins, trimmed to fit nice and snug on my engine/around the exhaust. The Naca duct I mentioned is a two hose system, the other hose will be going to the cooling fan area through the firewall. Which is what that goofy bit I pictured in my last post will be for. 

So the body/aero isn't the only part of the car I over-thought  I'm glad you guys are paying attention to detail though! Good comments :thumbup:

@Buggyman,

I was looking for some ways to re lube, or disassemble/reassemble the pump.. Anything in your bag'o'links for that? :laugh:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

23 Days left, eek

Not much in the way of pictures and big progress today. BUT this does mark a good point in the build. This is the last of the big "finish" work, now the body can start going back together as soon as the dash is mounted and ready! Soooooooon.

Started off trying to open a can of POR15. You'd think by now I'd have some good tricks to open these damn things. I do not, they still haunt me each and every time.


Finally open, started the stressful task of painting the bottom of the front end..


Onward to the bottom of the doors/quarter. 


Painted the duct


Time for coat #2 on the pan


All covered again. Now except for touching up pieces I wont have to mess with POR 15 for a while! 


Tomorrow will be trying to finish the dash up... As soon as that's mounted/done then the cage will be going in. After that it should be smooth sailing


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> @Buggyman,
> 
> I was looking for some ways to re lube, or disassemble/reassemble the *pump* .. Anything in your bag'o'links for that? :laugh:


Or the *steering box?* SV  , if it's the box that's the very content of the 
from
https://www.google.com/#q=rebuilding+a+vw+steering+box link I already posted up .
(_Anybody_ here know how to turn off http*s* when I click up on Google? )

:beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> Or the *steering box?* SV  , if it's the box that's the very content of the
> from
> https://www.google.com/#q=rebuilding+a+vw+steering+box link I already posted up .
> (_Anybody_ here know how to turn off http*s* when I click up on Google? )
> ...


:banghead: Yes, steering box is the term I was looking for :laugh: I could google it myself I was just looking for personal experience/recommendation!


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

22 Days left,

A lot of elbow grease today for little visual gain. Oh well, needs to be done! All dash work today.

Started off by mounting the boxes, this time with hardware instead of gravity.


For lack of a better retention system I'm using some M6 bolts through the metal of the dash. A little less removable than I wanted but I figured I wont be pulling these off much if at all.


Bigger box mounted,



Now begins the fun. What you dont see, because I didnt snap a picture, is the tape/wax paper I put around the boxes. Painters tape is what you want to use here.. but Im out and didnt want to waste the time driving out to the store in the middle of my motivation. Reason for the wax/tape is to put this duraglass down, put the box in and let it dry up a little. That way I get a nice line of where the box is, and can add/remove material more logically.


Fast forward to a lot of sanding later on. Body work sucks, don't let anyone tell you else wise  But patience and technique pay off. 


Not anywhere near happy with this chunk yet, but here are the gaps I have left over tonight.

Big box, passenger side,


Big box top down, (Note the gap in the back, the rear of the box isnt perfectly flat


Big box, drivers side,


Big box, bottom/front


Didn't get much into the smaller box, but it was loaded up with Duraglass, and I knocked the edges down a bit.


Tomorrow, more of this..hopefully ending up in painting the dash!:thumbup:


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> :banghead: Yes, steering box is the term I was looking for :laugh: I could google it myself I was just looking for personal experience/recommendation!


Acccchhh!, OK Sv  ,
When I went through my box








I made a point of _liberally_ (& I'm a Republican:laugh: )using https://www.google.com/#q=molysulfide (CV grease ) as an assembly lube, so much so that the remaining capacity for the GL*4* https://www.google.com/#q=GL+4 90W MTF was only ~1/2 of normal(~ the same as using _only_ https://www.google.com/#q=power+punch+manual+transmission ).
Verrrry smooth steering action even after ~ 25+ years of off road:banghead::laugh: rough bump steer driving along with a https://www.google.com/#q=vw+aircooled+bilstein+steering+damper :thumbup: .
I also used ~ the same ratio of https://www.google.com/#q=molysulfide to https://www.google.com/#q=GL+4 in the tranny to help combat wear of the R&P due to the road contact-no contact nature of off roading which you might(spelled "will" ) encounter in _severe_ slalom conditions, never missed a shift that I can recall, never had to open up either one again in all that time .

:beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> ...I made a point of _liberally_ (& I'm a Republican:laugh: )using https://www.google.com/#q=molysulfide (CV grease ) as an assembly lube, so much so that the remaining capacity for the GL*4* https://www.google.com/#q=GL+4 90W MTF was only ~1/2 of normal(~ the same as using _only_ https://www.google.com/#q=power+punch+manual+transmission ).
> Verrrry smooth steering action even after ~ 25+ years of off road:banghead::laugh: rough bump steer driving along with a https://www.google.com/#q=vw+aircooled+bilstein+steering+damper :thumbup: .
> I also used ~ the same ratio of https://www.google.com/#q=molysulfide to https://www.google.com/#q=GL+4 in the tranny to help combat wear of the R&P due to the road contact-no contact nature of off roading which you might(spelled "will" ) encounter in _severe_ slalom conditions, never missed a shift that I can recall, never had to open up either one again in all that time .
> 
> :beer:


Good stuff! I'll have to go that route with mine. Years of use can't lie!

21 Days left,

Today, more dash work. :banghead: Getting quite tired of Duraglass by now!


Lots of sanding later..


By this time luckily a friend came over to lend a hand. I had him start fitting the fuel cell.


Little bit of cutting/drilling/bending..


And welding of course,


Now the fuel cell fits in nicely. This is a "temporary" tank for the most part, I want to design a larger more fitting on later on. At which time I'll have to re-construct the piece I cut up, but I've had worse..


During most of this fun I was out sanding my dash more. Not quite there, but tomorrow should be close enough for paint. I don't want to half-ass this dash or anything, but the time I thought I was going to put into it might take too much time..


:thumbup:


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Looking like you have things _well_:thumbup: in hand SV  & just for grins a little proof to show that I'm not some loon:laugh: just making this stuff up on the run this very same Q was asked just a few months ago @ http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=8346.0  .
Also liking:thumbup: the naca https://www.google.com/#q=naca+duct+system plan .

:beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> Looking like you have things _well_:thumbup: in hand SV  & just for grins a little proof to show that I'm not some loon:laugh: just making this stuff up on the run this very same Q was asked just a few months ago @ http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=8346.0  .
> Also liking:thumbup: the naca https://www.google.com/#q=naca+duct+system plan .
> 
> :beer:


:thumbup: :thumbup:

Update will be tomorrow (or later today, seeing as it's 1:12AM here). Not a whole lot more to "show" for all the time I was in the garage, but making good steps. The dash STILL isn't painted, but the gauges are "in", the tops are mounted, and the main piece is secured. Tomorrow morning will be the time to paint finally, and from there I'll be mounting the speedo, and my last gauges. THEN into the car. :thumbup:


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> :thumbup: :thumbup:
> 
> Update will be tomorrow (or later today, seeing as it's 1:12AM here). Not a whole lot more to "show" for all the time I was in the garage, but making good steps. The dash STILL isn't painted, but the gauges are "in", the tops are mounted, and the main piece is secured. Tomorrow morning will be the time to paint finally, and from there I'll be mounting the speedo, and my last gauges. THEN into the car. :thumbup:


Excelente' Sv  ,
_Maybe_ , later on down the road , _after_ the _initial_ deadline to just show up, consider integrating _everything_ on the dash to an "originally built as" textured _(& @ least somewhat padded) look_ https://www.google.com/#q=vinyl+dash+repair&spell=1 
http://www.youtube.com/results?q=vi....O&biw=1280&bih=832&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=w1
 as opposed to https://www.google.com/#q=soft+touch+dashboard .
Just throwin' that out there for consideration .

:thumbup::beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> Excelente' Sv  ,
> _Maybe_ , later on down the road , _after_ the _initial_ deadline to just show up, consider integrating _everything_ on the dash to an "originally built as" textured _(& @ least somewhat padded) look_ https://www.google.com/#q=vinyl+dash+repair&spell=1
> http://www.youtube.com/results?q=vi....O&biw=1280&bih=832&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=w1
> as opposed to https://www.google.com/#q=soft+touch+dashboard .
> ...


I do like the stock look/feel so that is possible for dash round 2, whenever that happens :laugh:

20 Days left,

Bah-na-na-nahhh, NAh-nah-nah-nahnahhh, It's the finaaaaal countdown :banghead:

Anyways, This is all the updates from yesterday which I was too tired to get into. Lots of pictures today!

Started off by grabbing my gauges! Lots in there, I decided to go all* VDO. Tachometer, Cylinder head temp x2, outside temp, volts, oil psi, oil temp, boost, and fuel. I do have gauges I need to use that arent VDO.. My GPS speedometer, and the Innovate Air-fuel ratio gauge.


The innovate gauges also is the only chrome bezel in the bunch. When I ordered it, I had chrome bezels..but now I dont, so that has to change.


Murica,


Turned out pretty well I'd say,


Back to the dash.. All kinds of sanding still.


Using this to clearance areas as the boxes still arent fitting how they did before the duraglass.


While I was sanding/clearancing the dash, my brother was working on the boxes. Making wiring holes first off,


Test fitting gauges.. Turns out I ordered all 51mm gauges, holes are cut for 54mm... Thet still fit though. 


Here he is working on the tops. Drilling and tapping the aluminum tabs I left worked great!


All the gauges put where I think I want them.


Missing gauge is another cylinder head temp,


While this was going on, my buddy that dropped by to help was working on the tank straps


Making them fit all nice and stuff,


After welding a nut here, and a stud there, it fits real nice


Next up we flattened the cage plates that were all bent up. They were bent for stock floor pans, for my custom thing going on they needed to be flat. Chunk of 1" steel to flatten on, some 2x4's to sit that on (as to not damage garage floor) and the acetolyne torch took care of that pretty well.


Insert hiatus here, had to go out, didnt get back until around 11. From here I didnt feel like going inside so I went back at the dash. Had some finishing/glazing putty type stuff around so I went about smoothing up some of the transitions between surfaces. 


After that I cleaned the garage a bit, then came inside to at least poke my head into this thread. Sleep came next, now were back at it. It is drizzling here in my paint booth (behind the garage) so painting the dash will have to wait until it subsides. Few more gauge holes to cut, then the speedo, then it can all go into the car!

Then pan under body, then start the roll cage fun. Next hurdle is wiring, and fabricating exhaust pieces/finishing the engine.


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

19 Days left, (Each day from here on that goes by will stress me out just that much more! :banghead: )

Started with finishing touches on the dash. More finishing glaze.


Finally time for painting!


Coats 1,2, and 4..






Back inside while that dries. I'm missing a gauge cage piece from the cylinder head temp gauge i'm reusing. Have to make one..


Works for me.


Time to pull the dash inside, check out the paint. To be honest I'm not thrilled with how the paint turned out. The fit and how it covered leave a little be to desired, BUT time crunch, so it will have to do.


Time to finish this already, now to make the tachometer stand. Just figured I'd use a piece of 3031 that was laying around.


Hole


Cleaned/trimmed/bent


Fits pretty nice! Oh, and here are the boxes installed


And now for the 3 other gauges.. 2 more little gauges, and the speedo. I cut an extra hole for another gauge later on... Never know! Plus I like gauges, if you couldn't tell..


So I dont have a 4"~ hole saw... This took a LONG time.


Turned out pretty good too. took this time to cut out the column area (off center might I add -_-)


Yeaaa. I think all the pain was worth it though! :thumbup:


With that in, time to put the pan under the car (managed this by myself with some clever use of jack stands and roller dollies) 


Problem.. This is why I didnt get too far into mounting the oil cooler.. I was right, it will hit!


So close though. Damn! I'll have to find a new home for the cooler..


Sooooon


All for today. Tomorrow more cage fun I hope. Also NEED to get the wiring rolling, and some exhaust pipe pieces to mock up my up/down pipe.


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Dayo Sv  ,
Is that cooler actually _perfectly_ square?








_If_ it's rectangular just consider rotating it 90* & tucking it farther forward with the fittings pointing towards the driver's side, or, just go for a smaller overall area consuming but just as efficient & taller staggered/stacked cooler tucked farther forward http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog...r&osCsid=p95qi95jmp0pj7imje3q7rusr0&x=21&y=11 , or, just move it over to the passenger's side rotated 90* so the fittings point towards the driver's side .
Placing it on the passenger's side would also help compensate for the weight of the driver(you) in the driver's seat + consolidate the inlet & outlet fittings to & from it into one spot @ the firewall .
As you've described this is just a _supplemental_ cooler on top of the already stout one that you have on the engine, so I kinda doubt that it'll even ever come into play if all your engine tin ducting is in place
http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=3467.msg21909#msg21909 

:beer:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> _If_ it's rectangular just consider rotating it 90* & tucking it farther forward with the fittings pointing towards the driver's side, or, just go for a smaller overall area consuming but just as efficient & taller staggered/stacked cooler tucked farther forward http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog...r&osCsid=p95qi95jmp0pj7imje3q7rusr0&x=21&y=11 , or, just move it over to the passenger's side rotated 90* so the fittings point towards the driver's side .
> Placing it on the passenger's side would also help compensate for the weight of the driver(you) in the driver's seat + consolidate the inlet & outlet fittings to & from it into one spot @ the firewall .
> As you've described this is just a _supplemental_ cooler on top of the already stout one that you have on the engine, so I kinda doubt that it'll even ever come into play if all your engine tin ducting is in place
> http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=3467.msg21909#msg21909
> ...


It is mounted "square" as of now, I wouldn't say perfectly though! I wanted to mount it farther over to the side underneath the car, issue is, there is a structural piece that intersects there.. It's about as far over as it will go. As for mounting it on the passenger side, The starter takes up more room than the clutch arm, and I wouldnt want to cook the starter! 

Once I get the body fully on, I'll play around with fitment some more, as I write this I remember my cage comes through on either side of the trans. That limits my mounting points even more, may have to wait until after that! :banghead:

Guess that just means the cage is top priority!


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

18 Days left, 

Not too much done in the ways of physical progress, but I talked out a lot of the roll cage theory with my Dad to decide the best way to go about things. I'm confident the way we have it thought out will work just fine, and be easier/more straight forward. Onward to the pictures of what I actually did though.

First off, needed to make room for the transmission. Here is the rear gasket area that needs removed.


Since I'm not going to run these gaskets, at least in this fashion, I went ahead and just cut it off.


Now the transmission fits. Still very close, I may do some more tenderizing when the body comes down again. It's only touching on the top most part of the bellhousing casting. 


Time to start lining up the main hoop. I made sure the floor pan was level first as well. 


Now I see where the dash still needs notched out, should sit about where I'm pointing. I'll either have to drop the pan a little to put this part on, or remove the bottom half of the dash to mock it up correctly. That's tomorrow though.


Days are really ticking down, hopefully these last 18 days will be more packed with progress than the last 42! I fear I wont have enough time to road test the car before the show.


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> It is mounted "square" as of now, I wouldn't say perfectly though! I wanted to mount it farther over to the side underneath the car, issue is, there is a structural piece that intersects there.. It's about as far over as it will go. As for mounting it on the passenger side, The starter takes up more room than the clutch arm, and I wouldnt want to cook the starter!
> 
> Once I get the body fully on, I'll play around with fitment some more, as I write this I remember my cage comes through on either side of the trans. That limits my mounting points even more, may have to wait until after that! :banghead:
> 
> Guess that just means the cage is top priority!


Werking on _maybe_ a _very_ simple solution to this Sv  , it just involves the clutch arm itself:
http://manxclub.yuku.com/topic/224 
&
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=413744 
from
https://www.google.com/search?hl=en...2-1.1.0....0...1ac..26.img..1.0.0.hpXkaUYALaw 

:beer:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> Werking on _maybe_ a _very_ simple solution to this Sv  , it just involves the clutch arm itself:
> http://manxclub.yuku.com/topic/224
> &
> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=413744
> ...


A shorter clutch arm, that makes sense! Didn't cross my mind, I'll have to look into that after the cage is done. Another option, little more fab, but nothing too bad - is to raise the cooler into the cabin sortof in its own box. Just would need a way to attach the oil lines logically. 

Anyhow, 

17 Days Left,

Today was mostly taken up by replacing my neighbors truck bumper for him. Elderly fellow, couldn't say no! So, cut an hour + out for that. More roll cage preparation and talking out how to put it in most logically. Trying to avoid doing big sections of welding with the cage in the car, I like my headliners hole-less! All I really got done today was make templates for how I'll need to modify the mounting plates. Not much to tell on these so heres a bunch of pictures.













These will be torched out tomorrow, and finished decently. The main hoop will be tacked in tomorrow, and whatever else I can get to in my short after time work. The way I see it, by this weekend the cage will be done, so I can work on brake/fuel lines. That will conclude the body off segment. I hope by Monday I'll be all bolted back together re-assembling suspension.after that I think I'll modify my rear apron for easy engine access, and start fabricating the rest of the engine goodies. A lot to do still, I might just make it:thumbup:


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> A shorter clutch arm, that makes sense! Didn't cross my mind, I'll have to look into that after the cage is done. Another option, little more fab, but nothing too bad - is to raise the cooler into the cabin sortof in its own box. Just would need a way to attach the oil lines logically.


:thumbup: &:thumbup: SV  ,
It'd actually be better to go with the shorter arm _in your situation_ because you'd get a more immediate response @ the pedal & you could just adjust the engagement point @ your clutch pedal clevis .
On the cooler, above the package tray in a pass through _basically_ set up like your battery tray without a bottom, if the cooler is slid forward _just a bit_ that should accommodate the use of _combined_ 90* sweeps in a downward S configuration or just a couple of 45* sweeps pointed down through the rear package tray firewall in order to have the oil line connections end up _essentially_ in the _very_ same place as you had _originally_ planned https://www.google.com/search?hl=en...urce=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=g_AvUtWdLYTcigKtiYHwDw 
without compromising oil flow characteristics .
Doing _both_ kinda sounds like a win/win situation




 :laugh: 

:beer:


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## VWxghost (Dec 14, 2009)

I need to come join the madness.


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## glifahrenheitcameron (Sep 14, 2011)

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: Do work


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> :thumbup: &:thumbup: SV  ,
> It'd actually be better to go with the shorter arm _in your situation_ because you'd get a more immediate response @ the pedal & you could just adjust the engagement point @ your clutch pedal clevis .
> *On the cooler, above the package tray in a pass through basically set up like your battery tray* without a bottom, if the cooler is slid forward _just a bit_ that should accommodate the use of _combined_ 90* sweeps in a downward S configuration or just a couple of 45* sweeps pointed down through the rear...


My thoughts exactly! I'll definitely be using the same idea on the oil cooler box, should work out pretty sweet! I'll do some digging and see if I can't find myself a shorter clutch arm as well. 



VWxghost said:


> Indeed you do! :laugh:





glifahrenheitcameron said:


> That's the idea :thumbup: Tonight I hope the cage starts going together well. There is no such thing as being ahead of schedule but every minute counts!


Just 2 more hours till I'm out in the garage plugging away at things :thumbup:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

16 Days left,

Decent day today. Good amount of pictures for yall  I'll have to take another count for the thread thus far, has to be around 400! 

First off, thanks Andy P! He saw me having to make a gauge holder plate thing, and brought me in some extras into work :thumbup: 

(I totally have a full thumb there by the way, sure doesn't look that way though!)

Onward to actually doing things, started off with the mounting plates. Using my templates, a sharpie, and the Acetolyne torch.


Some more burning..


Then some grinding... and they fit!


Sorry for blur, keep in mind these are ALL iphone pictures in shaky caffeinated hands :laugh:




Took a minute or two and mounted my tube notcher incase I needed it tonight.. which I didnt of course, but tomorrow I think I'll have to use it atleast once!


Time to start fitting the main hoop,


Making sure I was even on each side I drilled some holes.. SOMEHOW I managed to miss all of the fins  Bet I couldn't do that twice..


All bolted down,




Now came the time to measure the bottom of the hoop's gap, to make it sit flat.. about 1/4 inch off on the outsides, fits much better now!


About that time.. Man oh man!


Tacked in place, of course since I dont have any extra pieces I had to kindof wing it, and adjust wire speed/heat as I went. They may not all be pretty, but by the time I finished the last of the them, they are strong!


Back window in view,


Love this thing,


Tomorrow will be mounting the seats, the pedals (or atleast mounting the seat comfortably so I have options on pedal mounting) and installing the seatbelt bar. Need the seats in for that to find the appropriate height ofcourse. Depending on how that goes I might get to put in the rear cross braces as well. :thumbup:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

15 Days left,

Put in some OT tonight. Hope I get to each work night from now on, getting things done is nice. :thumbup:

The theme of today is small problems, and mounting seats. Read on wont you?

Our story begins with unwrapping the seat rails and hardware, doing some eyeballing on where I think they should go.


To get a better grip on where these seats will go, I need to put the steering column back in. Ofcourse this also led to me trimming the dash MORE -_-


After some patience trying contortion-ism to get the bolts in, the column is mounted. Wheel spin for days :laugh:


Now that everythings all handled there, time to grab a seat,


Then put on the rails and whatnot,


Now to toss it in the car! Fits right in.. Wait a second, I cant see over the dash. :banghead: So, to the drawing board I go without grabbing a picture. Now comes the fun of the night, I designed a seat frame/raise with material I had in the garage and got to fabricating. First off need lots of this.


Ok now to fabricating. I decided that I'm going to lift the seats up 3". Low center of gravity is awesome and all, but I'd rather be able to see! After marking out my materials I get to choping.


Neighbors love me, you can only imagine listening to a chop saw at 10pm eh?


All kinds of piece to put together.


But first need to grind them to be pretty, and promote good welding,


Starting to piece together the puzzle,


First welds. They get better as I went on :thumbup:


Moar welds.


Moar,


Not looking too bad


Ooooh a nice one


Main parts done, need to be boxed now!


Onto the cross bars, Notching for good fit,


Like this,


Love when things turn out how I see them in my head,


Fits good,


Best of all, now I'll be able to see out the damn window 


I need to box the last one up, then mount them to the pan, and the seat rails to them... THEN measuring for the seat belt bar... then back to the cage business. Can't believe its friday already... ACK


----------



## westypoo (Jan 17, 2010)

Great work. Keep up the good work. Im watching. I love this build. Cheers.

Sent from my GT-P5210 using Tapatalk 2


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## flashburn02 (Jun 11, 2007)

Not bad, sir! Nice to see the welds settled in. I bought a new welder at the start of my build. I purposely started welding the areas out of sight first


----------



## Andy P (Jan 6, 2007)

No prob man, keep up the great work.


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

westypoo said:


> Great work. Keep up the good work. Im watching. I love this build. Cheers.
> 
> Sent from my GT-P5210 using Tapatalk 2


Thanks bud! :thumbup:



flashburn02 said:


> Not bad, sir! Nice to see the welds settled in. I bought a new welder at the start of my build. I purposely started welding the areas out of sight first


I love welding! Sometimes it loves me back, sometimes it doesn't  I'm happy with how most of the welds are turning out. I always try to go for the most out of site spot to weld first also :laugh: :thumbup:



Andy P said:


> No prob man, keep up the great work.


:thumbup::thumbup: I'll do what I can! This NEEDS to make it to H2O or I'll be bummed!!


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Whoops hit submit instead of preview. Oh well, here is todays progress.

14 Days left,

Getting to be REAL close.. Today didn't provide much in the ways of pictures, my phone died early on in the evening so there will be a photo catch-up tomorrow morning. My goal is to still have the cage done this weekend. 

Started off finishing the passenger side seat rail bracket.


After that, I got to drilling holes in the other, as well as the floor pan to mount it. After all that, and making sure it was square, I attached the sliders, then ultimately, the seat.


Now I can finally do what I meant to by getting the seats out.. Measure the angle for the harness straps to make sure I put the bar in the correct location for my setup. Turned out to be exactly where I would have put it, say I had to eyeball it! I decided to run the rest of the belts through just to see it. Can't wait to get it all in!


Thats all for pictures.. Tomorrow starts early, and I'll have help coming early in the AM. Bound to be an action packed day. Stay tuned! :laugh:


----------



## Wicker24 (Sep 3, 2013)

Edge. Of. My. Seat!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free


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## Jade Wombat (Oct 20, 2004)

Where are your mounting points for your harnesses in the rear? You want to make sure it is more straight-back than straight-down. I've heard this repeatedly for years and a lot of the racing sanctioning bodies have rules against this (I don't know what the specific angle is) but if it is mounted down (to a low point on the floor) and the car flips there is a high likelihood of pulling your shoulders down and compression of the spine and permanent damage.

Must be exciting having it 'look' like a car again (body on the pan).  I am jealous of your welds, practice, frequency, and a lot of time...I would usually have one of these between tasks.


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## glifahrenheitcameron (Sep 14, 2011)

Can't wait to see finished pics :thumbup:


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Jade Wombat said:


> Where are your mounting points for your harnesses in the rear? You want to make sure it is more straight-back than straight-down. I've heard this repeatedly for years and a lot of the racing sanctioning bodies have rules against this (I don't know what the specific angle is) but if it is mounted down (to a low point on the floor) and the car flips there is a high likelihood of pulling your shoulders down and compression of the spine and permanent damage.


:thumbup: 
_Right_ where his hands are:thumbup: 
















from
http://www.schroth.com/installation-instructions/en/05_restraint_installation.htm 
from
https://www.google.com/#q=racing+shoulder+strap+mounting
When mine were mounted _below_ my shoulder blades(seats placed vertical)








& I went from ~60MPH








to ~0MPH in the span of ~10ft:banghead::laugh: 








both of my shoulder straps partially tore by being sawed through by the top edge of the fiberglass seat.
While the straps were being re-sewn I added extenders to the mounting points in order to raise them to shoulder height & later on just tilted the seats back in a semi-laydown position








& a horse collar 








http://www.deist.com/horse-collar-nylon-p-9.html 
from
https://www.google.com/search?q=san...racing+horse+collar&spell=1&tbm=isch&imgdii=_ 
is never a bad idear .
But after ~20+yrs of offroading I'm an inch shorter than I was when I graduated from high school in 1975 & see a chiropractor once a week due to spine compression.
You want the shoulder straps to hold your upper body from swaying _forward_ , the hip straps hold you _down_ , the crotch strap prevents submarining of the lower body towards the pedals .

:beer::beer:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Update tomorrow morning, just got in, 3 AM (last four hours I was out and about.. Should have been working on the car though!) Got a lot done, the cage is mostly together!



Jade Wombat said:


> Where are your mounting points for your harnesses in the rear? You want to make sure it is more straight-back than straight-down. I've heard this repeatedly for years and a lot of the racing sanctioning bodies have rules against this (I don't know what the specific angle is) but if it is mounted down (to a low point on the floor) and the car flips there is a high likelihood of pulling your shoulders down and compression of the spine and permanent damage.
> 
> Must be exciting having it 'look' like a car again (body on the pan).  I am jealous of your welds, practice, frequency, and a lot of time...I would usually have one of these between tasks.


@ Jade

I did my homework on this as well! The cage I have included a seat belt bar which I installed at a correct angle per the guidelines in my Takata belt instructions. 20* was the maximum angle specified, so I have mine at about 10* or so. Good catch/advice! You're right too, having it start to look done is a big help in the motivational aspect. Being able to sit in the seat and grab the wheel is a huge rush of feelings after so much work! :thumbup:

@ Buggy

Yup! Turned out to be a little under where the hands are in that picture. Seatbelts are on thing that really need to be installed correctly.. Most of the time there isn't a second chance to learn from the mistakes so I did all my homework! :thumbup:

@ glifahrenheitcameron :thumbup::thumbup: Can't wait to take the finished pictures :laugh:

@ Wicker24 :thumbup: I know how you feel!


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Here is the belated update for 13 days...

13 Days left,

All about the cage this weekend. Made some good progress! Onward to pictures,

First off with the seat mounted I could do some fitment work on the seat belt bar finally. Fun trying to figure stuff like this out if you've never done it (like me). Me and by brother figured it out though.


Then got to cutting,


Almost there! I'll admit even with a little more trimming there was a small gap, but I think that's to be expect for a shop this size. The eastwood tubing notcher works great, but only when there is no bend in the piece you're working on. :banghead:


During all the seatbelt bar fun, I had a buddy working on the passengers seat bracket, mounting the sliders/ drilling holes.


Whoops forgot to mention the FIRST thing I did was spend way too much money at summit racing again. Needed to have the plumbing supplies on hand though... I don't want to run brake lines AFTER the pan is up there, I want to do that while the pan is out again while the cage is being finish welded.


Anyhow, by this time the seatbelt bar is tacked in. This is what I'm working with angle wise.


Onward to the rear cross bar things. By this point I realize the instructions given for this cage aren't the most logical for my application. I've taken all of it into advisement, but from here on I'm pretty much flying by wire. Putting the mounting plate in.


Lots of notching fitting grinding later...


Both sides in, dirty rear window picture.




Now to start on the door bars,




That side (passengers) went fine, when I went to use the tube notcher on the other side I couldnt get it to cut for the life of me.. Ended up doing it manually with air tools.. Which wasnt as bad as I thought


Somewhere a long the lines my buddy got the rails/bracket installed,


And now the door bars are mocked up ready to tack this morning.


Now out to the garage to finish this cage :thumbup:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

12 Days left, Err.. Actually 11 now that I think about it.. I'm leaving Thursday night with or without the track car :/

Anyhow, today fought back pretty hard. In the end I made some decent progress after jumping through the hoops. Lets get to it,

Lining up the door bar to the main hoop in preparation to weld it in. 


Went smoothly, and I tacked it into place. Being too early in the morning, I forgot my brains.. Ended up singing my seat pad.. Which is now the passengers seat pad ;D


Not sure why I didnt do this before to check the cut itself for adjustments. A lot easier than the back n forth to check the gap!


Worked out pretty well,


Now both sides are tacked in nicely,


Now to tackle a smaller issue, the passengers side seat bracket got installed a little crooked.. The door hit the seat when shut. I moved the seat in by drilling new holes. Knowing my luck the seats will touch eachother now... But anyways, here is the most exciting thing that happened during this task.


Back to the cage. Now is time to fit the front top bar, which will turn into a mount for my rear view mirror eventually :laugh:


Getting it in place, and square,


Threw some gloves between the pipes and the headliner to prevent burning, and got to tacking.


Now comes the door bars. These were a bit of a trick, with my seats being quite bolstery, I had to install the bars the only way they would fit. 


Guesstimation is one of my talents,


While I was drilling this notch, my drill died.. So now I get to stare at this for 30 minutes and do something else..


Might as well mount my pedals where I like them. I also mounted them leaning back a little bit, because I like it there. Worst case scenario, since it is just bolted like this, I'll mount them flat again.


Back to working on the cut


Not too shabby!


Now to finish the other side, Cut /fit/ tack


And we end today with the pan lowered a bit, and an iphone paneramic. I'm going to re-do the rear bars to meet up with the door bars, they look a bit goof being off, and there was no way the door bars could sit that high up themselves!


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## flashburn02 (Jun 11, 2007)

Its a good thing you are a small guy because that cage would be going through my thigh in your drivers seat.


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

flashburn02 said:


> Its a good thing you are a small guy because that cage would be going through my thigh in your drivers seat.


Lol yeah, its a pretty tight fit for sure. There is more room than it looks though for the thigh, I sat in it, then got in and out a few times before tacking to make sure it was a logical spot


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

10 Days left (going with the real number now... lost a day because apparently I cant count!)

Today was a lot of stress mostly, I did get the cage all welded up though. If you guys recall, I'm using a MIG, since I don't have 1500 to drop on a TIG... So the welds were nice and ****ty looking.. Most of today was cleaning said welds.. Onward to pictures

All welded together.. Avoiding direct pictures of welds cause they are pretty rough. Solid though, which is all that really matters in the long run.


Now to take a carbide over as much of it as I can..


Then my sanding wheel,


Note how the small rear bars don't really line up how I think they should with the door bars? Yeah there was no getting that pipe off without destroying something. Soo, thats just how its going to be. I don't like it, but for my first cage, it's not bad.

Took some time before I went in to re-organize the board. As much as I hate to say it, I don't think I'm making it to H20 in this. IT might be possible if I drop a lot more money, take off work, and work on the car ALL the time untill then. But then I ask, if you were working towards a build that meant a lot to you for so long (Been more than a year since I started getting parts) would you rush it in the end? Break in a brand new engine 700 miles away from home at a car show? Take the chance of assuming you did everything right without road testing? I'm confident in my work, but not THAT Confident :laugh:


I'm still going to work on this every day, just might slow it down a bit to make sure the finishing touches are thought out and executed correctly. 375 days till H2O 2014? -______-


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## glifahrenheitcameron (Sep 14, 2011)

Dont give up!


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## flashburn02 (Jun 11, 2007)

Not to rain on your parade, but I'm 90% sure you are not allowed to sand welds down on a roll bar if you want to pass tech inspection at a road race course like Mid Ohio. They need to look at the welds to determine if they penetrated correctly. This is all second hand info I'm going with here. We just put a roll bar in a Miata and were given that feedback. Not sure if cages are held to the same restrictions.

You may want to research that before you waste another day there.


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

flashburn02 said:


> Not to rain on your parade, but I'm 90% sure you are not allowed to sand welds down on a roll bar if you want to pass tech inspection at a road race course like Mid Ohio. They need to look at the welds to determine if they penetrated correctly. This is all second hand info I'm going with here. We just put a roll bar in a Miata and were given that feedback. Not sure if cages are held to the same restrictions.
> 
> You may want to research that before you waste another day there.


Oh? I'll have to look into that then.. I never heard that one before, or saw it in my research of the topic. I have never really seen a cage sanded down before either though, so I suppose that might be why :banghead: I mean I can weld back over it.. but being uneducated on the whole deal here I don't know if thats wise.

Time to do some more research -____- Thank's for pointing that out before I finished! :thumbup:

- Edit, Yeah, looks like tonight I'm grinding the welds down effected from yesterday and re-welding them -_______- here goes another day! :banghead:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

9 Days left,

After much consideration and research, I re-ground all my welds on the cage to start over. Lots of work and few pictures today, but I got it all done.. (minus the rear bars which go in after the body and pan are sealed)

The welds turned out a lot better this time.. I had someone working the wire speed and heat for me as I went. (Once again, wish I had a tig..one day maybe!)


Now we're back to solid, and should be able to pass inspections..


Worked on the rear bars a bit too so they will be ready. 


Ready to go on this end..


Tomorrow comes the tedious task of routing my hard lines. It's one of those things that I hate doing, but I love when its done right.. Better drink a lot of coffee first to get the "Get off your ass and work" energy burst. I'm HOPING to get the hard lines all done tomorrow so I can start re installing the pan. This weekend likely is going to be putting my coilovers and whatnot on the 2012, so If all goes according to plan the track car should be on its own wheels to move out of the way :thumbup:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

8 Days left,

Man do I hate brake lines. Today I spent mostly looking for things I needed to work on said lines -____-

First off had to sort the brake fittings from the AN fittings in my most recent bag o crap from summit.


Then came some trial and error bending the line. I do have a tubing bender, but sometimes its not as good as my hands..


After finding a decent bend, Time to get mad using a ****ty flare tool


This one turned out decent.. if I told you it was the first I tried I would be a liar :laugh:


So the line from the pedal to the T fitting in the front is "done". Here is from that T to the passenger side.. I dont have this sides fitting yet since it's going to a ECS Exact fit 944 line... M10x1 fittings aren't stocked by most places in these parts!


About fed up with brake lines today. I like making things with hammers/torches/welders.. not un accurate bends! Kicked everything to the side, and came in..


Tomorrow will be atleast the line from the pedals to the rear T, and pedals to the clutch slave cylinder. Oh joy..


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## paintballguy424 (Mar 4, 2009)

If you have an OReilly auto parts near you most stores stock metric lines in different lengths. I know my store I work at has a few different lengths. 


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

paintballguy424 said:


> If you have an OReilly auto parts near you most stores stock metric lines in different lengths. I know my store I work at has a few different lengths.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk


:thumbup:
Hey  Sv  ,
Please take a look @ my pic file again of my rail http://s72.photobucket.com/user/buggymanvw/library/?sort=3&page=5  & read these:
http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=5329.0 
&
http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=4135.0 
When doing _hand_ bends take the gloves off & place an _appropriately sized_ common ratchet socket for the sweep in the palm of your hand then do this https://www.google.com/search?gs_rn...urce=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=Snk6UsSSA4KdiQKvj4CIBA , lay the line over the outside of the socket & clench a fist , all you do then is just bend the line between your split center fingers = nicely contoured lines .
I started @ the masters with those fittings initially loosely cinched & worked my way back & forward until I could terminate each other end, then split common Type 1 fuel line to wrap over all the _exposed_ hard lines in order to prevent flying rock punctures .

_Almost_ forgot:banghead::laugh:  https://www.google.com/#q=mid+ohio+rollcage+tech+inspection  .

:beer::beer:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> :thumbup:
> Hey  Sv  ,
> Please take a look @ my pic file again of my rail http://s72.photobucket.com/user/buggymanvw/library/?sort=3&page=5  & read these:
> http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=5329.0
> ...


Buggy,

I took the gloves off and used some of your techniques for my next few bends. Seems to be working better :thumbup:

7 Days left,

Since this is now a countdown to my H2O trip, as the race car will not make it (Sad panda) I'll be adding some updates for my new "week to H2O 2013 Beetle TSI not track car build". Thanks to IOS7 I cant text pictures to my emails, so no pics today, I'll try to work around it and toss them in when I can though.

Today I fit the brake line to the rear junction piece, loosely ofcourse since I didnt get the right fittings yet. At this point I started to prepare the pan to mount to the body. Got out my body seal, cut out the sections where bolts will go through, and layed out my hardware. If I'm to put the coils on I'll need the room to do it, so the track car has to move over! I'll need to do some more moving around to get the pan to line up 100% correctly, but that will be tomorrow. 

Also in the plans, I have a set of twists (Reps) that will make it on to the beetle, 18x8.5 ET35.. Tomorrow I'm handing them off to my buddy to get the tires dismounted. Then this weekend post lowering I'll be working on them for the show. Plans are polished "lip" and painted white to match my Turbo script. I guess my waterpumper will make more sense at H2O, but it wont be as fun:banghead:

- edit pictures

Definately going to re-do these. I mean I am doing this in my garage and all, but damn!


Started raising the car.. Almost there just needs moved forward a bit. Need to borrow another jack to have 2 sets of wheels under the pan.


So close.


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Dayo Sv  ,
See that brass 90* fitting on my rear master?








Get 3 of those for here








2 O'clock positioned for the clutch , 12 O'clock positioned for the front brakes , 3 O'clock positioned for the rear brakes .
Cant the front brake line down then straight forward(2 easy/straight ~45* bends) through the Napoleon hat's original rear brake line grommets(the left #2's shown here)








& just create 2 bolt-on gasketed blank plates to close off the master cylinder pass-through re-using the hat's interior spacers(#15)







.
Pony the clutch & rear brake lines to run stacked parallel with each other(@ _least_ the upper clutch line protected in a fuel line wrapping in exposed areas to prevent vibration chaffing between them ) to the back X-tied together with small wire ties @ intervals between the rear brake line chassis hold down tabs .
_Right about_ where the front of the original back seat _was_ route them apart from each other through the back chassis pass-through, brake line through it's original hole, clutch line through a separate new grommetized hole drilled through a little towards the driver's side in order to aim @ the clutch slave cylinder .
Leave _just_ enough "play/re-bend" room in the length of all the hard lines @ the pedals in case you need/decide to reposition the pedals .

Suggestion ,since we're goin' for undercar airflow here , please consider squaring out your chassis through cage & other bolt holes








(all of those little silver dots hangin' down there:laugh: )
in order to accommodate larger/stronger carriage bolts https://www.google.com/search?gs_rn...source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=y9A7UtCtDcKUiQLLyYFQ 
installed from below, lock washered & red Loctited from the _interior_ of the car .
You'd be hard pressed to find _any_ modern car with bolt threads protruding down below the lowest portion of the floor pan https://www.google.com/search?hl=en...urce=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=6t07UuXvJ6OMigKU4oDYBg  . 

"as the race car will not make it (Sad panda)"
Bummer! ,_but_ , _this will allow you time to better get it right!_ _without_ having to rush everything on the fly:banghead: .

:thumbup::beer:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Buggy,

That would be the perks of not getting the car done, I get to slow down and do it how I want. Im sure this build will stretch well into the winter if I dont get to drive it around this fall. I like the idea of the 90* fittings on the mastercylinders, that will help clean things up a lot. 

The bolts under the car are another on of those "I guess I'll use all these bolts instead of buying more right now" kind of things. I was hoping to use these eventually,

http://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_socket_button_head_Stainless_steel_18-8_8mm_x_1.25mm.aspx

I saw some other style bolts (elevator/cage bolts) but I figure it would be best to use a bolt with a way to drive it.

Good stuff as always :thumbup:


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## phill0046 (Oct 14, 2005)

Last weekend! Are you going to make it?


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## Jade Wombat (Oct 20, 2004)

phill0046 said:


> Last weekend! Are you going to make it?


Yeah, what he said. Time to call in some favors and reinforcements, get every friend you can find and have a big old cookout and whatnot. I'd help you myself a few hours if Quito was closer.


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

phill0046 said:


> Last weekend! Are you going to make it?





Jade Wombat said:


> Yeah, what he said. Time to call in some favors and reinforcements, get every friend you can find and have a big old cookout and whatnot. I'd help you myself a few hours if Quito was closer.


I am going to make it yes, the track car however will not be joining me this year. There just isnt enough time to get the parts I need even, or enough money floating around right now to throw at it. :banghead: I'm super bummed about it, I feel as though I've disrespected my famiry. 

I will be there, in my regular boring daily, albeit on coilovers and wheels. Which brings us to todays update.

6 Days left,

Today I buttoned the pan up best I could with the hardware I have. The hardware kit I bought sucked a whole bunch, so I'm going to check my local source tomorrow for the right stuff. For the giggles, here is the stuff that ISNT done yet, that's kindof a big deal when taking it to the show 
-Electrical
-Suspension
-Seatbelts
-Engine isnt it
--Needs intake/exhaust fabricated along with oil/fuel plumbing
-Brakes need gone through

Besides that its pretty much done  I've done A LOT in the past 54 days, even though I'm not where I want to be, I'm still pleased it has gotten this far. Sorry if I disappointed you guys!

Anyhow, here is a few random pictures from tonight. The pan is 80% bolted up I'd say. 


The body is on casters, and rolled into the corner so I can install coils on the 2012 tomorrow morning


And this is what I get to look forward to, 


Atleast this means whenever the track car gets to a show, it will be that much more gone through, instead of thrown together in 60 days :laugh:


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> Buggy,
> 
> That would be the perks of not getting the car done, I get to slow down and do it how I want. Im sure this build will stretch well into the winter if I dont get to drive it around this fall. I like the idea of the 90* fittings on the mastercylinders, that will help clean things up a lot.
> 
> ...


*Thanks* Sv  , I'd use whichever low profile bolts _you_ feel the most comfortable with , just planting a _seed_ of an idea here .



Superveedub said:


> I am going to make it yes, the track car however will not be joining me this year. There just isnt enough time to get the parts I need even, or enough money floating around right now to throw at it. :banghead: I'm super bummed about it, I feel as though I've disrespected my famiry.
> 
> I will be there, in my regular boring daily, albeit on coilovers and wheels. Which brings us to todays update.
> 
> ...


When I got my rail frame from Sand Toys _completely_ bare/un-powder coated after pre-planning it with Donny  I completely assembled it & took it out for _several_ shakedown runs, after _each_ run _pretty significant/subtle_ changes were made until I was confident enough to commit to the powder coat.
Technology changed pretty rapidly back in the 80's(_19_80's _not_ _18_80's:laugh: )
so I ended up having to make a _lot_ more _little_ but _significant_ changes in order to just be able to drop into the driver's seat & *"go"*
(Seat belts & brakes come into mind here )




 :laugh: for ~the next 20 years.
Rather than _disrespect_ (r is nowhere near l on a keyboard so I got _that_ one:laugh: ) I feel like you're _respecting_ everyone else's input on your project , so slowing down & getting it as right as possible now as opposed to a scrambled together hectic disappointment




 :facepalm::screwy:
only makes sense:thumbup: .

:beer:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> *Thanks* Sv  , I'd use whichever low profile bolts _you_ feel the most comfortable with , just planting a _seed_ of an idea here .
> 
> 
> When I got my rail frame from Sand Toys _completely_ bare/un-powder coated after pre-planning it with Donny  I completely assembled it & took it out for _several_ shakedown runs, after _each_ run _pretty significant/subtle_ changes were made until I was confident enough to commit to the powder coat.
> ...


I concur! I can only imagine how many things I'll need to tweak to get the car to where I really want it. I may be updating this thread for a Looooong time before its actually "done"! :thumbup::thumbup:

Todays update will be tomorrow morning, I'm beat! Long story short, I got the coil overs on the 2012, and my wheels are all dismounted and ready to be refinished tomorrow. Lots of pictures on the coilovers, I took so many I MIGHT be able to do a DIY. We'll see:thumbup: Untill the morning:wave:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Alright, Belated update time,

5 Days left,

As I mentioned last post, Yesterday was spent putting coilovers on the H2O chariot, 2012 Beetle TSI.
Here are some pictures from that bucket o' fun.

Good early start in the morning. I was hoping to be able to get an alignment same day (HAH) so.. Start early, end early, right?


While getting the car jacked up where I wanted it, a post man brought me a race beetle part. The knee bar that I've been waiting for from Ron Lummus racing showed up. Good stuff!


Anyhow back to the project at hand. Poppin some caps,




Now for wheels off action. Anyone use these Schwaben sockets? As you see I use mine all the time :laugh::thumbup:


On a side note... OEM 19"s on a super beetle? I could fit them with adapters from 5x130 to 5x112  May have to do it once for the giggles.


Now since you guys probably don't care much about the water pumper, I'll just dump a few pictures in here from it! 











Oh, whats this??


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Just got inside. It's. 1Am here and with work 6 hours away I'm hitting the hay. Did a lot of work on the wheels though, pictures tomorrow.


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

4 Days left,

Alright this will be a brief update, since I should actually leave for work now :laugh:

Taping off,


Found a sweet gouge, oh well, its going to be there!


Here is the beetle lowered btw, not as far down as I was hoping but the springs are settling still,


Back to the wheels, as you see there are ALL kinds of layers.. I think I'll strip them instead of grind it all off,


Yeaaah, nasty stuff


Let it sit for an hour or two,


Adjusted my headlights in the mean time


Washed off all the stipper, now its time to start polishing


A while later.. Not the best by far, but not too bad for this few day wheel project.




Now to do the others,


Sanded out roughly enough for primer, this is a sandable primer so I'll be back at the blocks tonight,


Here is the end result of yesterday


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Update from yesterday..

3 Days left,

Lots of work on the wheels, got them all finished and ready to get tires mounted. Here are some pictures from that.

A lot more sanding with guide coat..


As you see most of the primer didnt make it.. The stripped didnt work as well as I wanted and I didnt have the time to do it all the "right" way.. Oh well, they are good enough for me!


Some gloss enamel white,




Starting to pull the tape off.. like christmas morning 






Hopefully tonight pictures of them mounted and on the car! :thumbup:


----------



## glifahrenheitcameron (Sep 14, 2011)

:thumbup:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

2 Days left,

More adjusting on the coils and putting the wheels on! They are a good 6/10 of what they could be, but I still like them.



Double stacking wood under it so the jack doesnt get stuck.. 




After a good drive no rubbing except for once on an off camber turn hitting a manhole cover, rear touched for a second. Today I'm getting an alignment, tonight lowering the front more, and raising the rear a few threads. I know once I have people in the car It might rub so I want to avoid that.


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Last day! Excited to leave for H20!

This morning I dropped the car off at the dealership for alignment and 20k maintenance. None of the local shops would do the alignment, so now I have to pay way too much for it.  For some reason they want to charge me 215$ for an alignment, being that I was already running late for work I didn't have enough time to find out what was so special about the car that it needed so much of a premium alignment.. Oh well, it is what it is? Tonight I'll be doing a little more detailing to the car, then powernapping, then off to the show !


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

So I made it to H2Oi in the 2012. Was still a great time!

Few pics and a link to the rest..

http://s907.photobucket.com/user/Superveedub/library/H2Oi 2013?sort=3&page=1



Some goods from the No radiator GTG in the link, took a picture of Just about every car I think!






Few from the actual show as well,


And when I left, I was followed out by a GSR,


AND the super beetle :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## Jade Wombat (Oct 20, 2004)

Updates?? :laugh:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Jade Wombat said:


> Updates?? :laugh:


Soooooooooon

I haven't forgotten, just planning my next angle of attack. I think this is going to turn into a "300 days until H2Oi" thing. Even though its not really an air-cooled event, It's the only big show I splurge to go to! This time I'll have a lot of time to really put the details into the build. But that's enough for now, first real new post should be on or before the 30th with more idea's/pictures. :wave:


----------



## glifahrenheitcameron (Sep 14, 2011)

^:thumbup:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Alright so I couldn't take the downtime anymore, so here we go again! This will be the 310~ days until H2Oi countdown.. This time I hope to get it there! I've added a few more tidbits to the finished car in my head, so I guess we will see how much turns into reality! This winter season I'm hoping to get the coating/painting/etc out of the way, as well as buttoning up the body and fabrication. I want to paint the entire car, but I don't think that will happen this winter, that will likely be the last thing to happen, and I might end up doing it my self in a garage O.O!

So for old times sake I took some pictures.. 310 Days left!

First off, I took some time to clear off my list of things to do from last September. Ideas started flowing, and here we are!


Few note worthy differences there will be my attention to detail on the hardware I use to finish things up, as well as coating all of the bare metals/undercar things. I'm looking into coating the aluminum trailing arms, re-finishing the axles, powdercoating all the little brackets/springplates.. Stuff like that. The idea is so I will be able not only to track the car because the components are there, but say I get it to H2Oi I can put it on wheel stands with mirrors under it and not be ashamed. 

All of this thought was possible with my best winter friend. 150,000BTU feels real nice when its 39 degrees outside,


Real question for this post though. In all the pan to body hardware kits I've seen there never seems to be a rear bushing included.. The one that goes here,


I bought the OEM Bolt/nut, but there should be some sort of sleeve or bushing as well. Anyone have any good advice for sourcing an alternative for this, or a place to buy new ones? They are long NLA through VW, I checked that first.. -__-


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> I bought the OEM Bolt/nut, but there should be some sort of sleeve or bushing as well. Anyone have any good advice for sourcing an alternative for this, or a place to buy new ones? They are long NLA through VW, I checked that first.. -__-


Dayo Sv  ,
#11








https://chircoestore.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=body+pad 
https://www.google.com/#q=111-899-115 
An alternative is to use squares of a cut up bicycle tire innertube stacked on top of each other with a hole drilled through the center or a sized strip of innertube folded over on itself several times with a hole drilled through the center https://chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=4895.msg34488#msg34488  , you can make _tons_  of little custom rubber sound deadening gaskets for other places on the car out of a single full-sized car or truck tire innertube or even tread from a worn out tire https://www.google.com/#q=huaraches   . 

:beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> An alternative is to use squares of a cut up bicycle tire innertube stacked on top of each other with a hole drilled through the center or a sized strip of innertube folded over on itself several times with a hole drilled through the center https://chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=4895.msg34488#msg34488  , you can make _tons_  of little custom rubber sound deadening gaskets for other places on the car out of a single full-sized car or truck tire innertube or even tread from a worn out tire https://www.google.com/#q=huaraches   .
> 
> :beer:


Welp, I apparently over think things! Didn't even consider cutting up an old tire :thumbup: I have more than enough of those around :laugh:

Any idea for the spacer bit? 111799127 (#19) It is NLA through VW as well, and mine are MIA due to all the commotion with the pan off. I'll have to look for them, but I bet I'll have to make something still, or get something made at a machine shop.


----------



## whalemingo (Jan 30, 2011)

You can get all the rubber pads from wolfsburg west


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

weaponized kitten said:


> You can get all the rubber pads from wolfsburg west


:thumbup::thumbup: Good stuff. I'll keep that in mind if I put an order together there. Buying just two small rubber chunks to ship would be silly! Maybe I'll have to price shop these along with rear aprons?

309~ Days left,

Didn't get out in the garage today, but I definitely DIDN'T get bored at work, which definitely DIDN'T lead me to sketching out some throttle linkage ideas..

Here they aren't, because I didn't do that,


Anyhow, here is my idea. As you see above I listed everything I think I will need to make this happen. I plan to make an arm out of 6160 aluminum, since its pretty tough and I have some left over. This arm will have a 6mm hole in the center/pivot point, along with 1-3 smaller holes to attach some sort of heim joints or cable ends. With multiple holes I can then adjust the "throw" on either side depending on what I need. After figuring out where to put it, I'll drill a hole for the bolt in the tunnel (behind the pedals of course). Then weld a fender washer to the head of the bolt, and fish it through the hole threads facing out, with the other washer I would be able to plug weld it in place. Then the 6mm nylon spacer will cover the threads and provide a surface for the arm to pivot on. The 10mm spacer will fit around the 6mm spacer, and allow me to adjust how far out the arm sits and limit the side to side play. Tighten the nut down to bottom out on the 6mm spacer, without pinching the 10mm, and I should have a nice tight setup.

At least that's how It works in my head! Feel free to critique the concept, my design may be crude but its using things I know I can source. Show me new components! :thumbup:


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Dayo Sv  ,
Please go back to my responses #'s 7 & 11 , you should still have 2 #17








stock 8mm master spacers hangin' around https://www.google.com/#q=113-611-829 in your dismantled box.
I used those cut to various lengths in several places like the heel bar, turning brake, & throttle pedal pin itself along with other assorted sundry 8mm through bolt spots all over the rail .

:thumbup::beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Here we are at the 300 days until mark. Now I'll get off my ass and start making more progress! It is cold here so I may complain, but I'll atleast try to accomplish something every day~ish. 

Today I didn't get anything interesting accomplished, I had a lot of running around to do. I did however get to check the internals of the engine/trans out visually with an inspection camera. I took a few shots of the screen, but taking a picture of a bad picture isn't the clearest.. Also, my latest distraction may be worth noting. My first non-VW vehicle.. Technoviolet E36 M3





Its a blast! I've wanted one for a long time, and my friend finally decided to sell me one of his. 

Anywho, VW stuff..

So I've had my transmission for a short while now. It's been sitting without fluid in it, which isn't good. Today I decided to fill that finally, as well as check out the engine internals. I can't really put oil in the engine yet to prevent corrosion, as there are a handful of lines I need to plumb first. Here is a shot of inside the transmission, few little spots of surface rust... ACK!!


Time to make sure that is the first and last of it! A little of this should do well.


Nice and goopy, 


These pictures really didn't come out well, but here they are,




After this I turned the trans over manually for a while to make sure everything had a chance to get coated. From now on every time I go out I plan to turn it over more, and fiddle with the shift linkage.

Now I didn't get any pictures of inside the engine case, it was kind of a feat to get to it in the first place. Due to winter, there are more things shoved in the garage at all times than before, one of the things that ended up cornered was the engine. I looked in each intake/exhaust port, as well as down the hole where the fuel pump and distributor fit. Not even a speck of rust, or anything out of place. When the shop built the longblock, I made sure they knew it would be sitting for a while before it made its way into the car, everything has a nice layer of assembly lube/oils on it. 

Pretty lame for a day, but like I said I was out for most of it. Tomorrow I want to get all the pan hardware switched out (I finally got the new washers today) and make two pieces one again. From there I'll either take the suspension apart for coatings, or put it back on the car. I have no shortage of things to do, but now I'm at the point where a lot of things could start happening in no particular order! I'm sure I'll figure something out!


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

No fun beetle updates in these last two days. I started to swap out the existing bolts holding the pan on out to use the new washers, then I realized how silly it was to use NEW washers with ugly old bolts! So, replacements are on the way. My time out side has been spent with the new toy. The E36 needed front corner light bulb sockets, hood struts, and a front bumper grille. Nothing difficult, but it kept me from tinkering with the beetle. Were at 298 days left.. Plenty of time! I think mostly I hate the cold, requires extra motivation to get out there.. But I'll find it!


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Dayo Sv  ,
On the linkage shizzle:laugh: 








strategically use Nylocs https://www.google.com/#q=metric+nyloc+nuts  to adjust tension in 1000th's of degrees of tightness/looseness , the more complex you make the linkage the more you have to ensure that _all_ things associated with it need to travel in a straight line otherwise you end up with a







:banghead:
under your throttle foot .

:beer:


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## Jade Wombat (Oct 20, 2004)

Maybe I missed it, why the different levers for the throttle cable vs. just a sleeved off-road cable setup? In theory you just run a sleeved cable through the tunnnel with some extra length, snake it around with a smooth curve and hook into to your pedal cluster, correct?


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Jade Wombat said:


> Maybe I missed it, why the different levers for the throttle cable vs. just a sleeved off-road cable setup? In theory you just run a sleeved cable through the tunnnel with some extra length, snake it around with a smooth curve and hook into to your pedal cluster, correct?


Hi Jade  ,
Pretty much because of the alignment/offset/pedal attachment issues discussed here http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-track-car&p=82741513&viewfull=1#post82741513 which started out here http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-track-car&p=82636859&viewfull=1#post82636859 .
So a direct connection to the pedal would put a Morse behind the original tunnel opening as well as outside the tunnel between the tunnel & the driver's inboard seat track, then back into the tunnel under the rear seat so it all lines up with the throttle linkage , I think we also covered hydraulic in there somewhere? https://www.google.com/#q=hydraulic+throttle+pedal .
Better:thumbup: to bring up or re-bring up _all_ options now though rather than having to re-engineer it all later on down the road .

:beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Jade Wombat said:


> Maybe I missed it, why the different levers for the throttle cable vs. just a sleeved off-road cable setup? In theory you just run a sleeved cable through the tunnnel with some extra length, snake it around with a smooth curve and hook into to your pedal cluster, correct?


I suppose that could work as well, i just dont know if there could be a curve made smooth enough for it to work smoothly. I'd hate to have a throttle that wants to stick open or closed, or is hard to manage! This would be by far the easiest option though :thumbup:



buggyman said:


> Hi Jade  ,
> Pretty much because of the alignment/offset/pedal attachment issues discussed here http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-track-car&p=82741513&viewfull=1#post82741513 which started out here http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-track-car&p=82636859&viewfull=1#post82636859 .
> So a direct connection to the pedal would put a Morse behind the original tunnel opening as well as outside the tunnel between the tunnel & the driver's inboard seat track, then back into the tunnel under the rear seat so it all lines up with the throttle linkage , I think we also covered hydraulic in there somewhere? https://www.google.com/#q=hydraulic+throttle+pedal .
> Better:thumbup: to bring up or re-bring up _all_ options now though rather than having to re-engineer it all later on down the road .
> ...


Hydraulic would be cool but would require a lot of tweaking I bet, I'd rather have a direct connection anyhow! I didn't pull the trigger yet on supplies for the linkage so there is still time to think about it :thumbup:

Down to 293 as of today, I dont have much to show but I did do some wrenching yesterday. Finally got the bolts for the pan, so now along with the new washers it looks pretty slick.





Need to coat the cage as well with something. I can't take it out to get powder coated like I originally wanted. Any suggestions? All I've come up with is VHT chassis/roll bar black.


----------



## SnakeEarl (Dec 11, 2013)

Air-cooled needs some snake oil, bud.


----------



## Jade Wombat (Oct 20, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> Need to coat the cage as well with something. I can't take it out to get powder coated like I originally wanted. Any suggestions? All I've come up with is VHT chassis/roll bar black.


Yes, POR15. It's tough as nails and gas resistant. Use a very rough prep. on it though. I've heard from other guys that POR15 does not like a smooth surface.

Keep going!!! You'll blink your eyes and the next event will be here before you know it.


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Jade Wombat said:


> Yes, POR15. It's tough as nails and gas resistant. Use a very rough prep. on it though. I've heard from other guys that POR15 does not like a smooth surface.
> 
> Keep going!!! You'll blink your eyes and the next event will be here before you know it.


POR-15 seems to be good for everything! I'm sure its spray-able as well, as I'd prefer not to have brush strokes everywhere.. Sounds like a plan!

Blink of an eye eh? Got that one right! I had to relocate for a new job this year, so for the last few months I've been 70~miles away from the car. With the new job, and some other new additions to the stable needing some tlc, time was scarce! But I finally got the car in my garage.. Times been ticking down, but I think with the amount of work I have left, I have a good shot at making H2Oi this year with it. 

104 Days left until H2Oi 2014... 

Spent the day packing up the car, and parts for transport. Also installed the lexan quarter windows, the idea was a stock look, so I think that turned out well!



Settling in the garage next to my roommates FC RX-7. Which may make its way to H2Oi as well.. That's another project in itself, as I'm helping him fabricate between my projects!


Oh, did I show you guys the new wheels yet?


Stay tuned this time for real, more progress incoming! As always, more pictures always on the way too, compliments of my newly acquired DSLR... No more iPhone shots!


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

103 Days left,

Not really a substantial update here, but I want to get into the everyday post rhythm like last year. Today was all about arranging my hoard of parts I had stowed in the beetle while transporting it, and helping out on the FC's cage when necessary. 

Welding on the FC's cage, 


Just a nice garage shot I took for the giggles,


One thing I'm missing is a big dry-erase board to organize the work! I know I need to pick up where I left off though, probably one of my least favorite jobs.. Making brake lines! I bought a nice looking eastwood table mounted flare tool, so I hope that reduces the stress involved.


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

102 Days left,

Started to lay out my fuel hoses this evening. I wanted to run the fuel feed line somewhere a little out of sight, so I decided to run it through the heater channel. This way there will be no issues with passengers kicking it, or it getting pinched around the seat rails. The pump fits nicely under the tank, I didnt want to actually secure it yet since I'll need to know exactly where the hose will sit with the fittings to avoid kinking it. 


Little sneak shot through the floor vent. Needless to say on this build I wont be using the heater channels for their OE purpose!


Here you can see where the hose will end up likely, although there will be a grommet when it's all said and done. The regulator will sit on the passenger side, and I'll run the fuel return back through the factory fuel hardline.


Besides a few other trivial things, that's all I got done with the 1303 tonight. The rest of my time was spent welding on the RX7's cage. Fun fun!


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

101 Days left,

So I was at work for 14.5 Hours today, so I didn't have the will power to make brake lines this eve. But you guys like pictures right?





Hopefully tomorrow I'll be more productive ! :laugh:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

So two updates in one post here... Well more of an excuse for "100 days left". Turns out I was dehydrated from working out side in the heat all day (12hr shifts ofcourse) so I ended up in bed about 45 minutes after I rolled into my driveway, felt terrible.

But that being said I made sure I atleast made some progress today, even though I worked later than usual!

99 days left,

Today was all about fiddling with brake lines. I have never been too good at getting hardlines right the first time, and It drives me nuts once they get all kinds of waves from hand bending. So I decided to go as slow as I could to make sure I could keep the lines somewhat straight. I also got to try out my new flare tool. MAN is it great..

Here it is, Vice mounted flare tool from eastwood.


Takes like 10 seconds to get to this, 


Anyhow so I bent up a line going from one of the mastercylinders to the back of the car. Here is where I'm mounting the proportioning valve. I wanted it to be fairly easy to get to since I'm sure I'll have to tweak it alot until the brakes feel right to me. 


Heres a shot up the tunnel showing where the lines are connecting to the MC. I'm still not 100% sold on how they are placement wise, so I took out the really bad left side line to experiment with. If I can't get these lines where I want them on the pedal side, I'll have to shorten them up and use AN hose for the hard part.


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Dayo Sv  ,
Looking niiiiiice:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:








Think we talked about this before, I used stuff like a series of different sized ratchet sockets to create different radius small bends
















& larger things like rattle can spray paint cans for the larger radius turns








along with the bender that came with the VW factory flaring tool http://chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=4135.0
https://www.google.com/#q=bending+brake+lines
Just don't get




 :laugh:

https://www.google.com/#q=preventing+dehydration  .

:beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Thanks Buggyman! I do remember the talking about using sockets and whatnot. I ended up buying a nice 180 degree tubing bender as well with my flare tool.. Just needed to figure out how best to use it! I think I got it down a lot better today.. :thumbup:

98 Days left,

I had the brake line from the MC for front brakes going all the way to the T in the front of the car. Not a lot of line really, but it was kind-of a pain, and didn't bend up well. I took it out, and decided to do it in two pieces. Here is the first piece, with my brake light switch.


Here is where it will sit after I start securing the lines down with clips of some sort. 


The bends on the pedal side.. I really like how these turned out, I may redo the rear brake line on the pedal side as well.


The lines connecting to the T fitting under the spare tire well.


Just a fun shot of the garage. Not sure if yall noticed in the other pictures, but I lucked out with this place... In car alignment rack from 1958! I don't know if it 'works' persay, but it is a great way to change oil and get under cars without using a jack .


Might have more later, I have to run to summit for more fittings, then a few more errands that will likely keep me out till the late evening. :thumbup:


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Dayo Sv  ,
As you can see I just used insulated C-clamps wrapped around split Type 1 fuel line as insulators, Summit has 'em
http://www.powersportsplace.com/parts/sum-g1880?seid=pspse1&gclid=CLPz9qmBir8CFU5afgodcQEAYA 
from
https://www.google.com/#q=insulated+pipe+clamps

What brand is the alignment rack?, I'd get it calibrated https://www.google.com/#q=alignment+rack+repair & make some easy $$ doing local side jobs , it'd also be handy to do your own adjustments to compensate for under or over steer on your own car between races instead of having to haul the car somewhere else & pay to have I done .

:thumbup::beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> Dayo Sv  ,
> As you can see I just used insulated C-clamps wrapped around split Type 1 fuel line as insulators, Summit has 'em
> http://www.powersportsplace.com/parts/sum-g1880?seid=pspse1&gclid=CLPz9qmBir8CFU5afgodcQEAYA
> from
> ...


Oh man! I was at summit earlier and didnt even think to look for those insulators. Those would work great. I was there buying supplies for my Naca duct on my window + some more brake fittings. 

The rack Im not sure of the brand I'd have to go look at it. Which leads us to todays issue..

97 Days left,

Im locked out of my garage!! I have a bad habit of leaving my garage door opener remote in the garage, and shutting the garage on my way out with the wall mounted button. This is a house I'm renting, as of recently, so my roommate has the other remote which thankfully he doesnt take out of his car. The landlord didnt know the keycode on the garage door panel, so all we have are the remotes. I wont be able to get into the garage until tomorrow evening when I'm off work.

Unless any of you guys know how to tell me to break into my own garage door opener panel thing? (PM me )

I'll be out hitting buttons, hopefully dumb luck works!


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

:facepalm::laugh:


Superveedub said:


> Which leads us to todays issue..
> 
> 97 Days left,
> 
> ...


Well Sv  , since this*(I know, I know )*




from
http://lifehacker.com/5549366/how-to-unlock-your-garage-door-from-the-outside-and-how-to-prevent-it
is linked from the http://www.homedepot.com/ site, it's not like no one else can access it .
Is the landlord the owner of the property or just another renter acting on the owner's behalf?, either way he needs to get up to speed on his property management skills:banghead: otherwise he would legally be held accountable for a much more serious lack of knowledge like during a fire https://www.google.com/#q=rental+garage+landlord+responsibilities .

What's the squirrel cage thingy @ the bottom of the window on the left?
















See, _if_ I were an :vampire: thief, _that's_ how I'm gettin' in.

*Hopefully*, _anyone_ else seeing this will re-assess their own shop safety & emergency situation management https://www.google.com/#q=kpa+safety  .

:beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> :facepalm::laugh:
> 
> ...
> What's the squirrel cage thingy @ the bottom of the window on the left?


I never knew about that trick with the coat hanger.. Should have tried that! 

That cage thing is an exhaust fan, and I suppose that would be the best spot eh? haha, better bolt it in some more 

96 Days left,

Today was interesting, a mix of progress and things not co-operating.. 

Firstly I got my sway bar brackets in, so I can finally put the suspension down and adjust the toe!


Also, branding on the rack.. Hunter lite-a-line


Need to bring my fenders down!


At this point I went to start more brake lines using the fittings I just bought from Summitracing.. I brought in my old packaging to match part numbers and somehow got the wrong thread.. SOOO now I have to order some more -___-

Instead I started to re-attach the shift linkage. Don't mind my temporary set screw, its the closest bolt I had in the right thread!


Mocking up the shifter. I wanted to get one of those black mamba shifters, but I cant see spending that much on a shifter!! I suppose I'll keep my eyes out for a used one.


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

95 Days left,

Didn't do too much today, kept getting distracted looking at tools to buy -_-

I did get another line made though between my distractions,


I think I may put my rear bars in like this, it makes a VW emblem 


Anyhow, I have more goodies on order to finish up the brakes/clutch lines. After that I'll be back in fabricating mode to finish up the cage, make a box for my oilcooler to sit in, make the rear apron detachable, and box off/clearance above the engine bay for my intercooler. It seems like its down to a lot of wiring and plumbing, that will likely take the most time leading up to the break in stage!

Tomorrow might be a DD maintenance day though.. Both the M3 and R32 need oil changes! -__-


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

94 Days left,

So it rained buckets today, that always sucks! Anyhow I rearranged the garage to do some DD maintenance.. Only could work on the M3 as apparently I did not order any R32 oil filters.



I did get them both to fit in the garage though.. Just for the giggles!


Found this little guy in the alignment pit while draining the oil. Pretty gangster, not sure how he got in there! Definitely could not fit up through the drain!


Ok I know I know, enough of the waterpumpers.. Tomorrow I'll get back to beetle work hopefully, my hose clamp brackets came in!


----------



## Volkdent2 (Jan 16, 2004)

Love the speedo, any feedback on how they work, and where did you get it?

Thanks,

Jason


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Volkdent2 said:


> Love the speedo, any feedback on how they work, and where did you get it?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jason


Thanks Jason! The speedo is a GPS unit, that way I don't have to worry about running a cable to figure my speed out.. This is where I got mine, 
http://www.speedhut.com/gauges/GPS-Speedometers-4-1-2-inch/1:3|37:5

93 Days left,

Back to buggin.

Well today, I took out my perfectly good (almost) headliner, mostly because I didn't think the sides would look good once everything was all together. Plus when I put in the quarter windows the headliner never made it back under the seals -_-. Heres a lame shot of how nice it was..


And off. I'm going to try and use the material still, and stick it to the roof with adhesive inside the opening. Lame description but I'm sure you guys know what I mean!


Anyhow, Started making the clutch line,




And the other side.. Once again using two lines, since there is NO way I can make it fit the way I want, and get it in the car in one piece.


To finish up the night I took my doors off. Without the headliner I decided to paint the inside of the car, perks of that is I'll just do the cage at the same time so I dont have to worry about overspray there. Naturally I'll have to tape all kinds of stuff off, but shouldnt take TOO long.


:laugh:


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> Also, branding on the rack.. Hunter lite-a-line


Dayo Sv  ,
https://www.google.com/#q=Hunter+lite-a-line 

https://www.google.com/#q=Hunter+lite-a-line+service 



Superveedub said:


> Don't mind my temporary set screw, its the closest bolt I had in the right thread!


https://www.google.com/#q=vw+shift+coupler+screw
https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww&ei=NOOsU9aaNISQiQKXrYCABQ&ved=0CBYQ1S4#q=111-711-189+dimensions 
What I usually did when I ran across a buggered up or missing one was just clamp a standard bolt head into a pair of Vice-Grips :vampire: tight & use the bench grinder to create the tapered tip, then just a drop or 2 of blue Loctite on the threads .

Why's the body/chassis seal not fully seated there?

:beer:


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> I think I may put my rear bars in like this, it makes a VW emblem


Actually, that's probably a good idea Sv :thumbup: 
https://www.google.com/#q=roll+cage+design+to+counter+engine+torque 
Since this is a track car(I'm assuming you mean like rally cross?) then you'll be rolling the body both directions as opposed straight line drag racing or NASCAR-like one direction round-e-round https://www.google.com/search?q=vw+...8ICoAQ&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAA&biw=1264&bih=834&dpr=1

So, depending on whether or not you'll be running a navigator in the passenger's seat(weight distribution) or a particular track has more left or right turns just tune out the difference in each situation with https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww...d=0CBMQ1S4#q=vw+adjustable+rear+spring+plates  .

:beer:


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> Found this little guy in the alignment pit while draining the oil. Pretty gangster, not sure how he got in there! Definitely could not fit up through the drain!


Open garage door?:laugh:

:beer:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> Why's the body/chassis seal not fully seated there?
> 
> :beer:


It was a pain, that seal is not the best option for sure! I just kinda let that one go, its all trimmed up now and you cant see it.. lol



buggyman said:


> Actually, that's probably a good idea Sv :thumbup:
> https://www.google.com/#q=roll+cage+design+to+counter+engine+torque
> Since this is a track car(I'm assuming you mean like rally cross?) then you'll be rolling the body both directions as opposed straight line drag racing or NASCAR-like one direction round-e-round https://www.google.com/search?q=vw+...8ICoAQ&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAA&biw=1264&bih=834&dpr=1
> 
> ...


For sure going to be turning right as well as left! 



buggyman said:


> Open garage door?:laugh:
> 
> :beer:


He was in the alignment pit! Haha, he's disappeared now though so there must be a hole down there somewhere that leads out, or to a secret underground toad colony.


92 days left,

Today I was fooling around with more brake/clutch lines as much as my willpower would allow, some clutter..


Working on the fun task of fitting the rear SS lines in a way that will allow them to flex enough.. Then to make the hard line to the caliper will be fun too.


Test fitting the front SS lines, better make sure there's enough slack now instead of later the first time I turn!








And then my roommate came home after having the tires mounted on his wheels, so we put those on..


Just a little bit wider..


.. I can't wait to be done with brake lines! I might do some fuel lines tomorrow to break up the pace, hopefully re-energize my garage productivity!


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Didn't mean to leave yall hanging yesterday.. Missed my usual time to post!

91/90 Days left,

Yesterday I was running around all day doing errands.. I did manage to load up some more goodies to bring down to the garage though!

Tins/fluids/assorted parts,


The engine..!


My steering wheel also came in as well.. 


Today started off with some more brake lines/clutch line fun,


Nearly all the hard lines are ran, but I ran into a dilema, found out my fittings wont work for the calipers or SS lines.. Those lines are metric thread, and the nuts I've been using are regular 3/16". They thread in but not well enough. So I'll have to order some more nuts in before totally finishing the lines.


I must not have snapped a shot of the finished clutch line, but that is done too.

At this point I needed to do the oil change on the R32 that I put off the other day..So the bug saw some real sunlight!


Decided to throw on a poly dogbone mount while doing the R32 oil change too,


Between all this, I helped with the FC rollcage... it's finally done! Now comes paint prep..


Lastly today I started installing the NACA duct in the quarter window. Almost ready to rivet/seal in place.


:beer::beer:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

89 Days left,

Well today I ended up helping the paint process on the FC cage.. as there was primer flying everywhere and my car was in a bag.



Trojan bug?


Made some good progress though.. Tomorrow comes the color! And hopefully beetle progress..!


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

88/87 Days left..

Still painting on the FC cage, good news is color is finally going on.. So it will be done soon, and then it will be all beetle time. My roommate owes me many hours of labor by now that I've sacrificed to help him get done quicker!



Frost white. Looks way cooler in person, hard to tell with this iPhone picture. I'll grab a better picture sometime after all the particulates settle/I'm not afraid to take my camera out in the garage!


On an on topic note, I sent one of my wheel centers off to the only company I found with a similar style wheel.. And no luck on replacement lips/barrels. It's seriously looking like they will need to be one-off custom kind of thing. Does ANYBODY know of a place that would be into that kind of job? I might have to just get a different set of track wheels If I can't find any way to use these


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> It was a pain, that seal is not the best option for sure! I just kinda let that one go, its all trimmed up now and you cant see it.. lol


Dayo Sv  ,
https://www.google.com/#q=black+rtv in between the seal straws @ the pan then same thing between the seal straws @ the body .



Superveedub said:


> Working on the fun task of fitting the rear SS lines in a way that will allow them to flex enough.. Then to make the hard line to the caliper will be fun too.


https://www.google.com/#q=bolt+threads+showing

https://www.google.com/search?q=vw+...mYGYCA&ved=0CAUQ_AUoAA&biw=1264&bih=834&dpr=1
https://www.google.com/search?q=vw+...&bih=834#q=vw+jetta+underbody+panels&tbm=isch

https://www.google.com/search?q=vw+...v4KgCg&ved=0CAUQ_AUoAA&biw=1264&bih=834&dpr=1 
https://www.google.com/search?q=vw+...q=vw+passat+underbody+panels&spell=1&tbm=isch

The smoother the flow down below the faster you go
https://www.google.com/search?q=bot...bih=834#q=underside+of+a+formula+car&tbm=isch  .

:beer:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> The smoother the flow down below the faster you go
> https://www.google.com/search?q=bot...bih=834#q=underside+of+a+formula+car&tbm=isch  .
> 
> :beer:


Oh I know! I have new hardware on the way to smooth out the bottom where necessary. I'm also going to make some belly pans for the front of the car. I should have a nice little stockpile of parts to put on by the time this RX7 cage is done and I can unbag my car without fear of overspray!


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## whalemingo (Jan 30, 2011)

This is cool to watch and all but I see this going to same way as last year. 10 days to get brake lines bent and more time spent on someone else's project. Don't let your self get too sidetracked or it isn't going to get done in time.


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> On an on topic note, I sent one of my wheel centers off to the only company I found with a similar style wheel.. And no luck on replacement *lips/barrels.* It's seriously looking like they will need to be one-off custom kind of thing. Does ANYBODY know of a place that would be into that kind of job? I might have to just get a different set of track wheels If I can't find any way to use these


Can I please see a visual on what you're talking about there? Sv  , maybe it's just the terminology you're using .

:beer:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> Can I please see a visual on what you're talking about there? Sv  , maybe it's just the terminology you're using .
> 
> :beer:


Sure,


Talking about three piece wheels, but maybe I've been hanging out with the waterpumping crowd too much lately! Wheel shells, where the portion from the face of the wheel and out towards the fender is the 'Lip', and the other piece from the face towards the car is the barrel.

I'm having no luck finding replacements, the closest I got was a company called Keizer ... http://www.keizerwheels.com/flash.html .. if you look at some of there wheels you will see one like mine show up in a slide show. Fair warning though, it's one of those websites that play you music.. which personally drive me nuts!

Anyhow I shipped them a wheel center to match up with their available components..No luck!


----------



## VWmk3GTI (May 4, 2013)

Holy **** you're close to me :thumbup: Loving your bug


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> Sure,
> 
> 
> Talking about three piece wheels, but maybe I've been hanging out with the waterpumping crowd too much lately! Wheel shells, where the portion from the face of the wheel and out towards the fender is the 'Lip', and the other piece from the face towards the car is the barrel.
> ...


Accch!, OK Sv  , I kept lookin' at the other ones goin' "Say whaaat? ":laugh: ,I turned the sound off:laugh: .
Well, this might be kinda related to the difference of thinking water 1st & air 2nd because the 1st thing I thought when I saw the pic _again_(my:banghead: bad for not scrolling back a page or 2:facepalm::laugh: ) was *Centerline*








http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43155
from
https://www.google.com/search?q=cen...YBw&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&biw=1264&bih=834#imgdii=_ 
which is much more old school air based, my bro had them on his 67 bug back in 1972-75 & like your other wheels were also heavily Porsche based .
So take that one over to Summit http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/center-line-wheels & let 'em have a look see .
https://www.google.com/search?q=cen...0YKYBw&ved=0CAUQ_AUoAA&biw=1264&bih=834&dpr=1 

:beer:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Wow those are really similar! Only difference I see right off the bat is the number of bolts holding everything together.. Interesting though, I will have to stop by summit next time I'm out there!

Down to 84 days left now.

Finally got the car unbagged, I was sick of just looking at it while working on the Mazder.

I decided to pop the axles off to clean them up, so I can paint them.


Started off fine, but after a few times of moving the axle around, the C.V. joint came apart. No biggie usually as I've had this happen a few times, its a pain, but not impossible.. Then I noticed something odd. I'm missing a ball! I've never driven on these axles, but every once in a while when I would push it one would feel funny, like it was about to catch and stop itself. Guess it was this one.. -_- Welp I'll be ordering new axles now, that way they'll come clean with nice shiny hardware.


Kinda bummed about the axles I looked for a simple job to finish to get me back in the game. Window duct time! Finished fitting the duct in the window, then drilled some holes for little bolts I ordered.. And bam!


The reason its outside the window instead of inside is mostly aesthetic.. I don't think the drag created by it sticking out 2mm will hurt performance too much!


Then the rest of the time before lunch I spent organizing my new whiteboard.. the list seems never to get shorter  And I know the days left is wrong, I didnt remember until I counted from my last post


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> Wow those are really similar! Only difference I see right off the bat is the number of bolts holding everything together.. Interesting though, I will have to stop by summit next time I'm out there!






 :laugh:
Soooo, you can't find _any_ kind of identifying marks on the wheel lips, barrels, & hubs? like








http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...he-pattern-16x8-et-63&p=68491024#post68491024 
from
https://www.google.com/search?q=por...ted+wheels&tbm=isch&ei=kEm3U5TgNoKAoQTM94HwBw

https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww&ei=w1u3U8LCNdjFoASRv4HoCA&ved=0CBMQ1S4#q=x+bolt+3+piece+wheels  

https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww&ei=w1u3U8LCNdjFoASRv4HoCA&ved=0CBMQ1S4#q=x+rivet+3+piece+wheels  
Just narrow down your search parameters through elimination of what you _don't_ have .

:beer:


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> Window duct time! Finished fitting the duct in the window, then drilled some holes for little bolts I ordered.. And bam!
> 
> The reason its outside the window instead of inside is mostly aesthetic*(?)*.. I don't think the drag created by it sticking out 2mm will hurt performance too much!


Sv , , _Completely_ contrary to their intent/design:facepalm:




"NACA ducts are submerged ducts – they are installed flat."
http://www.buildingspeed.org/blog/2012/12/whats-a-naca-duct/comment-page-1/ 
from
https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww&ei=yFu3U57iBuTtigKt2oGgDQ&ved=0CBYQ1S4#q=naca+duct+installation

https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww&ei=4123U-WdJ5D1oASOpYCgAw&ved=0CBYQ1S4#q=aesthetic+car+design

:beer:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

The backs of the faces/barrels/lips I have are all blank! I looked there first :/.

On the Naca duct, my original plan was to mount it on the inside of the lexan, problem is that when I cut it out it got kinda messy. At this point I figured it would be more visually pleasing on the outside, and still do its job just the same! 

83/82 days left,

Well yesterday around my usual post time Vortex was down, so here's the late update.

FC is getting ready for clearcoat, so it's getting taped off again. I didnt want to do anything to put a whole lot of particles in the air, so I started to 'refinish' my steering wheel. It had all sorts of small blemishes from the years. Felt a little rough to the touch. I've always had good like with scotchbrite pads and WD-40 to give metal a quick deep cleaning. Here is a shot about halfway through, kinda hard to tell the difference here besides on the locating pegs but there is one! Dont mind the discoloration.. I got it too hot! Good thing I planned on painting this already 


I measured up where I wanted to put the rear bar mounts for the cage as well, and drilled holes for the plates. Then, threw the bag back on the car.


And got the rest of the FC taped off..


Today all I did was a whole lot of cleaning in the garage, and made a shopping list for what I need for the next few days of fabricating. I hope to have the rest of the cage in, as well as the oil cooler box setup made and installed. Then I can work on painting my cage, and putting the headliner back in.


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> 88/87 Days left..
> Still painting on the FC cage, good news is color is finally going on.. So it will be done soon, and then it will be all beetle time. My roommate owes me many hours of labor by now that I've sacrificed to help him get done quicker!


Dayo Sv  ,
Rolling back to this one,
Re: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-track-car&p=85795357&viewfull=1#post85795357 
Is that a side door leading into the house on the right? .

Instead of bagging the bug every time how's about just putting up a https://www.google.com/#q=visqueen wall down the center of the garage, mechanical on the left of your fist(which is probably finding a way to contact my jaw:laugh: right about now), paint on the right, which brings up https://www.google.com/#q=ohio+environmental+laws+painting+a+car+in+a+garage , just sayin' .

I'm a pain in the ars, huh?:laugh: , just watchin' your back .

:thumbup::beer:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> Dayo Sv  ,
> Rolling back to this one,
> Re: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-track-car&p=85795357&viewfull=1#post85795357
> Is that a side door leading into the house on the right? .
> ...


That door does not lead to the house, but very close behind it. It also has a weird skeleton key thing, and it's always been locked! I did take the key inside since last time though (since it was hanging inside the garage..) to attempt to open that door if I ever get locked out again. 

There is somewhat of a reason for why the garage wasn't divided up, I thought of that too! The reason we left it open like that and bagged the car is so the exhaust fan could be used. You got me on the EPA bit though, I was not aware of that  Although so long as you don't phone-a-fed I think I'll be ok! :laugh:

Down to 79 days left I believe now? Last few days I've been in the garage, but didn't get much done except cleaning things, then throwing things -__-. We all have those days I'm sure.. !

This day I do indeed have progress to share. I spent my pre-work evening (since I'm on midnight shifts this week, another fun part of my balancing act is adjusting sleep schedules every other week) fitting the rest of the roll cage. These fit a little better than the photos show since the magnet couldn't hold it in place with the right bit of twist. Quite weldable though! 


Heres the bottom of that bar. 


From the back,


Now I would have some pictures of the other side which I did indeed start, but I didn't have enough hands to hold both bars in place and measure one to figure out where they will meet. I didn't have access to the welder to tack it in place is the real issue. But trust me the other side is one pipe notch away from being ready as well.

I did get a picture of the knee bar though, this one will be interesting to mount since I need to make sure the steering column is removable still once it is installed!


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> That door does not lead to the house, but very close behind it. It also has a weird skeleton key thing, and it's always been locked! I did take the key inside since last time though (since it was hanging inside the garage..) *to attempt to open that door if I ever get locked out again.*


I'd be checking that *now* Sv  , the landlord(I'm a landlord) should have spare keys to _all_ access of their own properties _in case of emergency_ https://www.google.com/#q=ohio+landlord+emergency+ease+of+entry . 



Superveedub said:


> There is somewhat of a reason for why the garage wasn't divided up, I thought of that too! The reason we left it open like that and bagged the car is so the exhaust fan could be used. You got me on the EPA bit though, I was not aware of that  Although so long as you don't phone-a-fed I think I'll be ok! :laugh:


:laugh: , _I'm_ not callin' _anybody_ , there's a couple of tips in that link I put up to show how to mitigate irritating the local neighbors/fellow tenants who _might_ call though .



Superveedub said:


> Down to 79 days left I believe now? Last few days I've been in the garage, but didn't get much done except cleaning things, then throwing things -__-. *We all have those days I'm sure.. !*


*Been dere, done dat:*
"Ranting,raveing,throwing wrenches(even that heavy floorjack Roll Eyes Shocked ),spitting,stomping,pondering,growling,snarling, Fart ing,barking,begging,betting,praying,calling your stock broker,bandageing(those 2 new finger splints Sad ).....
Been there-"EVERYBODY OUT!" Angry Shocked"
http://chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=5139.msg36265#msg36265 :laugh: .
 vid 





:thumbup::beer:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

:laugh:

Another perk to this place in regards to annoying neighbors, is that there really aren't any around to annoy! The garage is on the far side of the house, no one behind the house or to the right. Only neighbor in sight of the garage is across the street and I bet they cant even hear the radio playing in the garage. Nice and tucked away next to a local airstrip. Heres the door that you could see in previous garage pictures too,


And pointing towards the strip,


Anyhow, 78 days left!

Today I played with cardboard,


But really, I was mocking up box layouts for the oil cooler. I don't like this one at all, but this shows about where I want it to be, and why it wont even work.. The cage would intersect this one, it is too big, I have another one in the works that I think will do the trick, but I want to tack the cage in place first to get a real sense of if it can fit there.


Then I can paint the rest of the interior :sly:


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> :laugh:
> 
> Another perk to this place in regards to annoying neighbors, is that there really aren't any around to annoy! The garage is on the far side of the house, no one behind the house or to the right. Only neighbor in sight of the garage is across the street and I bet they cant even hear the radio playing in the garage. Nice and tucked away next to a local airstrip. Here's the door that you could see in previous garage pictures too,
> 
> ...






  




 :laugh:

:thumbup::beer:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Erm.. Pardon the hiatus 

73 days left,

Did a little work on the steering column and actual steering wheel today. 


Here's what prompted me to start painting here too.. I hate rust!


Primer for the wheel, and VHT chassis black for the steering column. 


And finally I got the car over to the "welding" corner of the garage.. 


Hopefully cage progess tomorrow. Well see!


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Double update since I forgot yesterday .

72 Days left,
Started to install the first rear bar, also trying to set this welder up for this wire at the same time since I dont really have any extra to practice on.


Tacking the base,


Also the knee bar is in, ran out of wire here for the MIG..


My new axles came in today, So those will be going on as soon as I clean out the trailing arms so theres only fresh grease.


71 Days left,
Today I found some more wire, had to get a different brand though which I'm not excited about. But I want to get this done! After some issues with the settings on the welder trying to dial in this new wire, I got the rest of the cage in.






While I was walking out of the garage a Chinook buzzed down the airstrip so heres a not so great picture of it.. I didnt have time to adjust the camera for a moving shot.. hah!


Tomorrow I'll likely clean up the welds of today and re-do them. They didnt turn out so hot today with all the issues I was having with the machine.


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Another double post here..

70 days left,

First off I made a new friend behind the house when I opened up the door.. Little bugger stood like that just long enough for me to creep off to grab the camera!


Got some mexican beetle turn signals in the mail, I'll be attempting to fit these into a german 74 bumper, I never looked into it but I'm sure I'll figure it out.


Spent the rest of the day grinding down bad welds to make room for new less ****ty ones.


69 days left,

Today didnt look like much accomplished on paper, but I put in some good hours. Got the whole cage sanded down ready to start the paint process.


Between sanding I also took breaks to tape off sections too. Spraying the rx7 was a pain in the ass, so I'm leaning towards brush painting my cage. I'm torn on what color to use though. I want to use black to help hide my welds, as I'm not really proud of them. I was also debating on gray as well. Opinions?


Did a lot of work inside removing adhesive leftovers from the headliner, and roughing up the surface for paint.


Clearing off the gas tank area, the POR15 there did not adhere correctly. By that I mean I didn't sand that area enough and just hoped it would stick I suppose..


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Forgot a picture yesterday... My harness came in too, well see how well I can get it in there after the painting!


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> Another double post here..
> 
> 70 days left,
> 
> First off I made a new friend behind the house when I opened up the door.. Little bugger stood like that just long enough for me to creep off to grab the camera!


(I _have_ to:laugh: )




 :laugh:



Superveedub said:


> Between sanding I also took breaks to tape off sections too. Spraying the rx7 was a pain in the ass, so I'm leaning towards brush painting my cage. I'm torn on what color to use though. I want to use black to help hide my welds, as I'm not really proud of them. I was also debating on gray as well. Opinions?


Well Sv  , the RX7 was unibody, the bug ain't, what's the chances of just un-tacking the rear X of the cage & lifting the body back off?:
Paint the cage parts alternating in exterior colors green(verticals & horizontals) & black(angles).Theme .
Free access to pre-install the harness into the body .
All you'd need to do after reassembly is a localized paint touch up on the cage after re-welding the top of the X.
Maybe even rework the top of the X to a clamp configuration like








to accommodate possible future body removals = no need for a localized touch up, all it'd take is an inboard "tweak" @ the top of the X .

Just a thought .

:beer:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> (I _have_ to:laugh: )
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That was my original intent, to build the cage and pull the body back off. Problem is the main hoop/vertical bar would not fit out of the bottom. In this picture look at the area of cage nearest the door latch, from there down it tapers in towards in inside of the car, it's too wide to fit out the bottom :/


Yesterday I was going to paint the cage, but it was very humid here. I've decided to use my POR15 for the inside of the body, but for the cage I'll be using VHT rollbar paint. I decided against POR15 due to it oxidizing in UV light. I've read elsewhere that people use appliance epoxy with good luck as it hardens nicely and is self leveling. Depending on how the VHT paint lays I may be doing that over top of it. All I accomplished yesterday was some garage cleaning, nothing photoworthy!


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> That was my original intent, to build the cage and pull the body back off. Problem is the main hoop/vertical bar would not fit out of the bottom. In this picture look at the area of cage nearest the door latch, from there down it tapers in towards in inside of the car, it's too wide to fit out the bottom :/


Been staring @ that for a little while Sv  ,
The widest portion of the pan/body is @ the back of the back seat
















http://chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=8519.msg56631#msg56631
So either or both a straight up lift until interference then move the body forward &/or add in a horizontal twist @ that point, maybe have to throw in a longitudinal twist & lateral front lift.
5 man job 1st time out, one on each corner of the body one inside the car coordinated event, from there you might want to think a garage roof joist based sling system.
https://www.google.com/#q=lifting+body+off+chassis
https://www.google.com/#q=lifting+vw+body+off+chassis

:beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Well with the heater ducts in the way I dont think I could move the body forward enough! Either way I can't setup a hoist here, there are no exposed braces or anything, the top of the garage is covered with drywall (or something of the sort). I'm just glad I didnt try to build the cage on the pan before putting the body on! :laugh:

67 days left,

Started painting inside the car today. Fun with POR15 on the inner body pieces. I'll probably go over it all again with the chassis paint for the UV protection, but I have half a quart of POR15 I need to use!

Here is the gas tank area redone,


Somewhat hard to see, but the rear area has a good coat on it,


While that all dries up I worked on a wonderful masking job for the windshield ... 


Tomorrow I'll finish up the masking, and actually spray on the cage. After the cage is done (or done for now) I'll be back to finishing brake/clutch lines, and probably starting to run the fuel lines. My goal is to be able to start the car the first week of September at the latest.. so here we go again!


----------



## Andy P (Jan 6, 2007)

opcorn:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Andy P said:


> opcorn:


umpkin:

Well I neglected the car a little bit this week.. Terrible I know.

64 Days left, 

Finally started painting the cage... and ran out of paint! I like how its laying though actually, hopefully its nice still when its finally cured.


Looks pretty clean I think.. Would be sweet if I could have taken it out to get powder coated.. but oh well!


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> Either way I can't setup a hoist here, there are no exposed braces or anything, the top of the garage is covered with drywall (or something of the sort) .


Sv  ,
"After 1yr @LB City College studying archictectural engineering and drafting..."(& many other years )
http://chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=4472.0  
That's
















a gable roof(otherwise the "ceiling" couldn't exist ) https://www.google.com/search?q=gab...beoASZnICgDQ&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ&biw=1264&bih=834

Pop a couple of _little_ holes into the "drywall (or something of the sort:laugh: )" & use your bore scope








http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-track-car&p=84346690&viewfull=1#post84346690 
to take a look around up there & look for the ridge beam https://www.google.com/#q=garage+roof+car+sling
https://www.google.com/search?q=gar...6YGYBw&ved=0CAoQ_AUoAw&biw=1264&bih=834&dpr=1

Yup , I looked @ the bad:vampire: side of it too , so if something seems "iffy":screwy: then _please_ disregard what I just posted .

:beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

D-d-d-double post

63 Days left,
More painting this morning, Painted the tank straps and seat risers.


worked on the back bars


Then I decided to test something with my wheels, as I finally got a quote for barrels and lips.. Time to pull one apart,


De-seal it the american way,


Then I put a lip on the back of the face like a barrel.. Totally clears the brake (minus the valve stem.. but I can fix that)


This means that I can skip buying barrels.. and save a gob of money. I'm all about that!

62 Days left,
Even more painting.. I ran out of paint this time, but everything is about covered so I decided to pull tape off. the spot fixes will be isolated easily so I'm not worried about it.


Parts all over the counter.. so we moved them around a bit to be in frame.. Thought it was funny! This is what you get when there are two cars being built, and parts showing up all the time.


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> Then I put a lip on the back of the face like a barrel.. Totally clears the brake (minus the valve stem.. but I can fix that)
> 
> 
> This means that I can skip buying barrels.. and save a gob of money. I'm all about that!


:thumbup: Sv  ,
https://www.google.com/search?q=ben...i8oQT1wIC4BA&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&biw=1264&bih=834
Just a plug on the new inner & a new hole on the new outer , but *(I'm your worst:banghead: nightmare:vampire: , aren't I?:laugh: )* where are you going to place the new opposing weight relative to the other? https://www.google.com/#q=wheel+balancing&spell=1  .
We just had 2 brand new tires(just the tires ) come through our shop that even when rotated &/or flipped on the rims inside to out wouldn't balance with as much as ~8oz of compensation weights




 :laugh:
:banghead: .
So , after solving the valve problem have the modified wheels alone run on a balancer 1st before installing the tires(that gives you a chance to re-clock the new inners as opposed to the new outers by the same increments as their relatively small bolt together pattern ).

Now ,when it came to checking for clearance




 :laugh: 
did you put the fenders on & _completely_ unload the suspension(the _wheels_ clear the calipers OK , but will the _tires_ clear the fenders & 1/4's on full suspension compression + lock to lock turning? ).

Just throwin' more shizzle:laugh: out there to take a closer look @ .

Accch!, BTW , clean the bejeebers:laugh: outta the _insides_ of the rims before final assembly & sealing, _every_ ounce counts of _hidden_ schmutz:laugh: removed counts toward an easier/more accurate balancing job .

:beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> ..Just a plug on the new inner & a new hole on the new outer , but *(I'm your worst:banghead: nightmare:vampire: , aren't I?:laugh: )* where are you going to place the new opposing weight relative to the other?
> 
> ..after solving the valve problem have the modified wheels alone run on a balancer 1st before installing the tires(that gives you a chance to re-clock the new inners as opposed to the new outers by the same increments as their relatively small bolt together pattern ).
> 
> ...


Well first off for the valve stem / balance questions. I figured I would use a hide-a-way style stem like these (which I've used on other wheels with no issue). Likely this time though I will use some sort of sealer when installing them for extra insurance. http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/JOM_Valve_Stem/ES2561286/ 
Then whenever I get my lips, I will install them so their valve stem is 180 degrees away from the one in the barrel, if I can get them balanced then just the wheel then adjust then I will do so. Maybe whoever I find with a spin balancer will let me seal the wheels while they spin too so I have a nice bead, haha.

I did not have the fenders put on yet, but I'm very confident in my wheel math. I've had to determine spacer sizes and offsets for a long time now! These wheels will bring the tires fairly close to the fenders, but should not cause much of a fuss. The front wheels at full lock will be very close to the sway bar load depending, so that might be a trick to keep them from rubbing all the time. 

I plan on cleaning the insides of the used wheel parts for sure! I know they wont balance perfect but I'll get as close as I can of course!


----------



## Jade Wombat (Oct 20, 2004)

Still looking good, are you going to tie the front part of the cage in with the strut towers and do an X pattern to the top of the front sway bar mounts?


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Jade Wombat said:


> Still looking good, are you going to tie the front part of the cage in with the strut towers and do an X pattern to the top of the front sway bar mounts?


Thanks!
I'd like to eventually but for the time being I'm not going to, I probably wont add to the cage until I get a TIG welder. The MIG is barely cutting it!

62 Days left (getting close to where I started last year! still lots of work to do.)
Today I didn't have a lot of time in the garage, but I did get some good work in on cleaning the wheels up. 


Or atleast getting most of the gunk off!


Decent amount of imperfections, but these will be on the inside so no worries for me.


Looks like a little bit of garage/storage battle scars


Cleaned up the other still complete wheel a bit as well. I plan to get some sort of polishing/light buffing wheel to use for the rest of the cleaning. This was all my usual WD40+scotchbrite pads. Not sure what I'd do without them..


Another thing I found out today is that my steering wheel does NOT fit. The wheel is small spline, and my super has the larger spline. I've seen that same wheel on super beetles before so my minds a little blown right now. I don't know what I'm going to use instead now, I was pretty set on that wheel :/

Tomorrow I'll be getting some more paint and touching up a few spots on the cage/floor. May not get too much done since my sleep schedule is all messed up right now. Worked 7am-7pm today, and tomorrow I do 7pm to 7am, so ill be sleeping a lot.


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> Another thing I found out today is that my steering wheel does NOT fit. The wheel is small spline, and my super has the larger spline. I've seen that same wheel on super beetles before so my minds a little blown right now. I don't know what I'm going to use instead now, I was pretty set on that wheel :/


Dayo Sv  ,
_Pretty sure_ you're looking to either install or uninstall a 191-419-514-A
https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww&ei=5HTUU42yONjjoATnxYKIDA&ved=0CBYQ1S4#q=191-419-514-A








from
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=317217
from
https://www.google.com/#q=vw+super+beetle+steering+wheel+adapter
They were used on 1/2 year 73's like the standards(6A)








but only_ listed _in my super fiche as an _un-illustrated _item

















See ,73 was a "transition" year , so I'm giving you the shaft(say what?) :laugh: :
http://vw.zenseeker.net/Steering.htm
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=532696 
from
https://www.google.com/search?q=197...nICIBA&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAA&biw=1264&bih=834&dpr=1
"Colonel Sandurz: [in reference to not wanting to attack Yogurt's lair] But sir, your ring! Don't you have the schwartz too? 

Dark Helmet: Nah, he got the upside, I got the downside. See there's two sides to every Schwartz."




 :laugh:

:beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Buggyman, I have no adapters on mine unfortunately :/. I did some research and very early 74' Supers ( late 73 build dates ) came with the larger diameter steering wheel spline. 75' and later had a longer column length, so I would have to find a late 74 super column to make this work correctly. Since that will be like a needle in a haystack, I plan to disassemble both steering wheels, to make one Frankenstein version that will work! Hopefully.. haha

61 Days left,

I went to the parts store to pick up the paint I had them order in for me. Turns out they got the wrong paint in, I need gloss, and they got in satin. I had them order me some more so tomorrow I'll have to grab them so I can finally finish the cage paint!

Today I spent some time to try and fix my newly broken exhaust fan! I've grown accustom to the nice breeze this thing cause in the garage, without it I was baking! The motor gave out.


So none of you guys would happen to have one of these would you?


Anyhow, I had to figure out something to do on the car, so I started to remove the rear apron. I want to make it removable for easy access to the engine, so the old one has to come off anyways.


Didn't take any in progress pictures, but here it is off.


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Looking into both SV  if no one beats me to it by morning.

:beer:


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Preliminary results:laugh: Sv  ,
https://www.google.com/#q=vw+bug+removable+rear+apron 

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...n:+craftsman&gclid=CMvr1ZeX578CFQUFaQodpRcAGQ

https://www.google.com/#q=typical+window+mounted+air+conditioning+amp+usa ge 

(This is _actually, somewhat_ VW _related_ Vortex mods )





:beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> Preliminary results:laugh: Sv  ,
> https://www.google.com/#q=vw+bug+removable+rear+apron
> 
> http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...n:+craftsman&gclid=CMvr1ZeX578CFQUFaQodpRcAGQ
> ...


I have a few ideas for the rear apron, just have to get some bits in to make it happen! 

The fan is great for pulling fumes out, so that's why I wouldn't replace it with an AC unit, although I had thought about it! Im sure I wont be able to find another fan, but I'm sure I can find one and make it work.

That video was pretty good! Sometimes I wish my beetle had a key fob with remote locks!

60 days left! (Dun dun dunnn)

I finally got my paint today, and sprayed the spots of the cage that needed more coverage. Pretty happy with how it came out even with the few draw backs!

I spent my time in the garage modifying my steering wheels, to make one work. Starting with these two perfectly good (mostly) wheels..


Got the stock wheel pulled apart. The stock steering wheel boss is a little shorter than the Scirocco wheels, so It will pull it a little closer to the dash. Should workout just fine still though.


Then I removed the Scirocco wheels boss. It was a little more involved, 7 plugs compared to the 4 of the stock wheel. 


The bolt holes didn't quite line up. BUT I figured it out...


And look at that! Like it was made to fit... 


At this point I took it back off, ground down the face so it was flat again, and threw some more etch primer on it to stop any rust that may form. I'm thinking I'll paint it green like the body, or maybe white if I paint the twists white. Well see!


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

59 Days left,

Could only squeeze in an hour today, but I got the factory E-brake handle pulled out. I don't want to use the 944 turbo parking brake setup, and I'd like to remove all its components to free up some weight. So I don't need any of this cable brake setup! Here is post removal,


I'm going to use a hydraulic handbrake setup, similar to this one I stole from my buddies RX7 for mockup purposes. Mine will be likely a 45 degree angle, or level with the tunnel. I don't really care for the 90 degree style brakes, but well see how it ends up as mine will be adjustable to each position.


Now its 10 minutes before my 'Go inside, upload pics, make food, get ready for work' time, so I decided to make a rough template for my wiper cover. Cut it a little too short, but I'll adjust it when I cut out the real thing. I'm thinking 3031 aluminum like the dash.


I need to finish my fab projects on the body before I can move on to installing the wiring. So tomorrow I hope to do some more work on the oil cooler box. That + mounting the handbrake should be the last of the big interior fab projects. 

The turbo should be in the mail soon, my lips are ordered for the Duralites, I have wiring on the table, brake fittings came in already from the UK, and I have most of the fittings/hose I need for plumbing fuel/oil. Just need to squeeze out the wrench time! I have a nice 4-day weekend coming up real soon, so I intend to get a big chunk of work done.


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> The fan is great for pulling fumes out, so that's why I wouldn't replace it with an AC unit, although I had thought about it! I'm sure I wont be able to find another fan, but I'm sure I can find one and make it work.


Dayo Sv  ,
This is my bad for not:banghead: doing more _targeted_ homework before:facepalm: posting, all I was looking for was info on _just_ a replacement motor , which are used in old refrigerators, air conditioners, washing machines, clothes washers, clothes dryers.... 
https://www.google.com/#q=appliance+motors
https://www.google.com/#q=efficient+appliance+motors
Even rig up a window sized https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww...BYQ1S4#q=louvered+clothes+dryer+exterior+vent 
to match the exterior siding








so as not to freeze your tail off during the winter which could be locked from the interior by just securing the center dowel which connects all the louvers together https://www.google.com/search?q=woo...iAogThvIK4Cw&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&biw=1264&bih=834 , could all be made from light vinyl segments like https://www.google.com/search?q=vin...PuoAS-jIHgAw&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&biw=1264&bih=834 .
No one would be any the Budweiser:laugh: that an opening was even there until you unlocked it & turned on the fan .

:beer:


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> Could only squeeze in an hour today, but I got the factory E-brake handle pulled out. I don't want to use the 944 turbo parking brake setup, and I'd like to remove all its components to free up some weight. So I don't need any of this cable brake setup! Here is post removal,
> 
> I'm going to use a hydraulic handbrake setup, similar to this one I stole from my buddies RX7 for mockup purposes. Mine will be likely a 45 degree angle, or level with the tunnel. I don't really care for the 90 degree style brakes, but well see how it ends up as mine will be adjustable to each position.


Dayo Sv  ,
Did we ever cover just a Park Lock








http://chircoestore.com/hydraulic-park-lock-for-dune-buggy-39-s-and-sandrails.html 
in front of a vertical cylinders turning brake








http://chircoestore.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=cutting+brake ?

IIRC there may have been some discussion of an LSD vs a TB somewhere in here 
https://www.google.com/#q=vw+turning+brake+with+lsd
See it's late




 :laugh: 
but just a nice light & simple plant the foot on the brake pedal & punch the Park Lock button between the seats would/should do it .

:beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Buggy, 

I've never seen that locking bit, very interesting! May have to grab one of those. And as for the turning brake, I could have gotten one but didn't think about it at the time I was ordering. Oh well, maybe down the road ill grab one!

Today I didn't get anything done, had to deal with other problems. 



Long story short, driving in the rain down a hill between lots of trees. Saw something in the road, looked like a small chunk of leaves. Cool, So I went ahead and went over them. BOOM, not leaves, chunk of road/rock/something solid. Limped up the other side of the hill to safely park the car. Went back to take pictures so I could try and get ODOT or my insurance involved, the only thing I found were pan parts and oil, no trace of what I actually hit. LAME.


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> Buggy,
> 
> I've never seen that locking bit, very interesting! May have to grab one of those.


Dayo Sv  ,
I find it kinda weird that there's all the precautions about using one as a parking brake because, well, it's called a park lock because that's exactly what it does:banghead: , you park the car & hydraulically lock it into that spot(always a _level_ spot ).
https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww...&ved=0CBYQ1S4#q=using+a+park+lock+in+a+vw+bug
https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww...YDIDQ&ved=0CBYQ1S4#q=vw+park+lock+in+a+vw+bug
Please also talk to the good doods:laugh: @ Summit regarding using a line lock https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww&ei=TcHZU-3pCYmIiwK9nYDIDQ&ved=0CBYQ1S4#q=vw+bug+line+lock which basically does the same thing but just plumbed to the front brakes . 



Superveedub said:


> And as for the turning brake, I could have gotten one but didn't think about it at the time I was ordering. Oh well, maybe down the road I'll grab one!


You'd be kind of amazed @ what you can do with one of these properly set up, in your case help to preset up for corners & even recover from a slide out accompanied with timed counter steering + gas pedal power either way, you'd feel kinda like a bad




 :laugh: 
taking into account that there's another handle to handle _until you get used to it_ , I found myself tapping on it _constantly_ in both directions off road @ +100MPH in order to counter rough terrain bump steer. 




Superveedub said:


> Today I didn't get anything done, had to deal with other problems.
> 
> 
> 
> Long story short, driving in the rain down a hill between lots of trees. Saw something in the road, looked like a small chunk of leaves. Cool, So I went ahead and went over them. BOOM, not leaves, chunk of road/rock/something solid. Limped up the other side of the hill to safely park the car. Went back to take pictures so I could try and get ODOT or my insurance involved, the only thing I found were pan parts and oil, no trace of what I actually hit. LAME.


OK, here you trust _your own_ eyes, not your crew chief's "special tires" story




 (Only happens in the movies ), otherwise you'd need to devise a https://www.google.com/#q=cow+catcher front valance/spoiler, can't tell you how many times I just _backed_ off unless I was _certain_ of what I could _pull off_ .

:beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Here are some more carnage pictures with the real camera. Car is in the garage and parts in the mail -__- I didnt want to spend time on this VW on my days off!!

Playing musical cars,


IN the R32 parking spot,


Dun,


Dunnnn,


DAaaaaa,


There are a few bolts holding the pan on that I can't get because I dont have a long reach allen key socket. Grabbing one from a local auto store -__-


----------



## WFox93 (Dec 22, 2012)

Dude that hurts so much seeing the state of that oil pan. Ive been lurking this thread for a while now and haven't commented ... I love what you've done with that old beetle and the new one was pretty cool, and the R32 ... those are awesome regardless. glad you're getting that R fixed though and that no other harm was done to it.


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

WFox93 said:


> Dude that hurts so much seeing the state of that oil pan. Ive been lurking this thread for a while now and haven't commented ... I love what you've done with that old beetle and the new one was pretty cool, and the R32 ... those are awesome regardless. glad you're getting that R fixed though and that no other harm was done to it.


Yeah it's a pain for sure! Thanks for the kind words, and for posting in. Sometimes it just feels like a long conversation between me and Buggyman, glad to see others are looking too! :thumbup:


56 Days left,

Actually messed with the beetle today since I'm waiting on R32 parts.. should be here tomorrow though!

I wanted to do some test fitting around the engine area, as Im taking the trans out today, which we'll touch on shortly. Take note on the valve covers, they are making contact with the body! Thats the engine raise for ya.. Didn't even consider that being an issue!


So naturally I cut until it fit. That section I cut out was somewhat structural, so I intend to weld some metal back in to get the strength back. Plus I think it will look better then too instead of just being hacked.. But the good news is the engine went into place pretty well after the surgery.


Here is the transmission after removal. 


So here's the story I don't think I mentioned before. When I was putting the shifter in as a "test fit" I did actually try to get it set in there to engage gears. The problem is, and I don't know how it happened since I was being gentle, It seems to be stuck in gear. I couldn't get it to move around anymore, like something was hung up inside. Since I just had it built, I figure it's better to take it back to the shop and have them diagnose it. If its a stupid problem and a waste of money, then so be it, all I need is a trans that works and peace of mind! I can do engines.. but I don't trust myself in transmissions yet!


----------



## VWmk3GTI (May 4, 2013)

Ive heard nothing but horror stories of transmission workers  good thing i never got to that class,that engine is so shiney,love it man! :thumbup:


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Dayo Sv  ,
What's wrong with


Superveedub said:


> Sometimes it just feels like a long conversation between me and Buggyman(  ), glad to see others are looking too!


 ? 
I talk to myself all the time:facepalm:




 :laugh: .
(Views: 20,136:thumbup: )




Superveedub said:


> I wanted to do some test fitting around the engine area, as Im taking the trans out today, which we'll touch on shortly. Take note on the valve covers, they are making contact with the body! Thats the engine raise for ya.. Didn't even consider that being an issue!
> 
> 
> So naturally I cut until it fit. That section I cut out was somewhat structural, so I intend to weld some metal back in to get the strength back. Plus I think it will look better then too instead of just being hacked.. But the good news is the engine went into place pretty well after the surgery.


You're also gonna run into a problem with the engine compartment seal since the 1/4 shelves(14) seal beads(15) & the apron seal bead(16) & the firewall seal bead(13)








no longer match up with your engine tins .

So , what I was thinking would be to locate some 75 & later FI 1/4 shelves & corresponding cylinder tins








from
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=491320 
from
https://www.google.com/search?q=197...YCA&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ&biw=1264&bih=834#imgdii=_ 
Cut out the shelves you have now(they're just spotted on ) & install the FI ones correspondingly higher , you _should_ be able to just re-spot the apron bead higher to meet up with the new shelves (_pretty sure_ we're just talking a couple of MM here) , the firewall tin(23)








can just be given a haircut:laugh: across the top .

While you're in there you could also install Weber windows
https://www.google.com/#q=vw+weber+windows 
https://www.google.com/search?q=vw+...ffoASn5IGwCA&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&biw=1264&bih=834 
in order to have easier access for spark plug changes .

_Maybe_ this'll help on the trans http://chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=7754.0  .

:beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

VWmk3GTI said:


> Ive heard nothing but horror stories of transmission workers  good thing i never got to that class,that engine is so shiney,love it man! :thumbup:


Took it in today to the shop, its a local family business that only do aircooled VW stuff (they have high HP dune rails) and the occasional trailer sale. They are good knowledgeable people so I trust them! At the shop today I was hanging out while they diagnosed it, and like I thought It was getting hung up in second . I left it with them to tear into on monday, and hopefully nothing got hurt in the process!

I hope the engine stays somewhat shiny for a while! Thanks man.



buggyman said:


> Dayo Sv  ,
> What's wrong with
> ?
> I talk to myself all the time:facepalm:
> ...


Nothing wrong with talking BM! To yourself or otherwise, I appreciate your input!

The fire wall seal probably would have been off anyways, I anticipated that and I plan to use some thin aluminum to make up for the gaps. From there I'll find something to seal up any of the air gaps best I can.

I like the weber window idea, I didn't even know that was a thing since I've never had dual carbs! Makes sense for easy spark plug access. 

Besides taking the transmission up to the shop today, I worked on the R32 since the parts came in. Long story short I'm still working on it. The pan came off, and there was a bearing in it. It was a large needle bearing, and I cant seem to figure out where it came from. It must have been inside the oil pump, but until I can find out for sure I dont want to chance it. 

That and I broke the oil filter housing. If any of you have done oil changes on VR6 cars, you know exactly what I'm talking about. Turns out the small planet that I hit jarred the threads of the plastic housing just so, causing the head section to snap off as soon as I put pressure on it. Hooray setbacks.


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

54 Days left,

Got the pan out of the R32, and installed the new one. Still waiting on the oil filter housing bit of course.. so that car will be down for another week or so. The bearing had to have come from the oil pump that shattered, so after checking torque on the connecting rod bolts and whatnot I feel good about the engine.


Started making some fuel lines finally, this is the main length going back to the regulator supply.


Made some lines for the filters and pump as well,


----------



## SnakeEarl (Dec 11, 2013)

What happened to the R32?


----------



## Andy P (Jan 6, 2007)

SnakeEarl said:


> What happened to the R32?


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

SnakeEarl said:


> What happened to the R32?





Andy P said:


>


That's about right Andy! I don't know exactly why I hit, but it was quite solid! I'm currently waiting on the plastic oil filter housing to show up in the mail, everything else is back together.

53 Days left,

More fuel lines today, here is from the fuel cell to the first filter. The angle looks funny but the filter actually sits lower than the fitting in the tank, so it should flow fine. 


The return line is finished as well, I have this coming from the factory hard line from the pan to the top of the tank.


----------



## Andy P (Jan 6, 2007)

On another note what days you going down? Jack said you guys are going down together.


----------



## Jade Wombat (Oct 20, 2004)

Do you have a strut tower brace my friend? There's a lot of force being transmitted through that front end and that brace you notched on lower front lip of the tank. I'd had a hell of a time fitting the fuel cell on my super also with those curvy parts.


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Andy P said:


> On another note what days you going down? Jack said you guys are going down together.


Planning on leaving late Thursday / Really early Friday like last year. That was the plan but I think he's having problems getting off work or something! I think a couple other local people will be cruising out that day too. What day you leaving, Wednesday or whatever like last time?



Jade Wombat said:


> Do you have a strut tower brace my friend? There's a lot of force being transmitted through that front end and that brace you notched on lower front lip of the tank. I'd had a hell of a time fitting the fuel cell on my super also with those curvy parts.


I do have a strut tower brace, but the fuel cell is now in the way of it, so I'm not sure what I'll do about that yet! Where I notched the brace I folded it back over itself and welded it for some strength, but I see your concern, I may have to do some more strengthening + modify my strut brace.


----------



## Andy P (Jan 6, 2007)

Early wed is when we will be leaving. Have the condo wed to Monday.


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Andy P said:


> Early wed is when we will be leaving. Have the condo wed to Monday.


:thumbup:

52 Days left,

I didn't get anything actually "done" today, but I spent some time getting familiarized with my intimidating box-o-wires. I'll need to get these in right so I don't light my project on fire! 


When I get more time in the garage, I plan to sit down with a OE wiring diagram, and figure out what from the new harness needs plugged in for what I'm keeping! A lot of the wires wont be necessary, but I definitely need to get a better working understanding of relays. I understand what they are, and that I need them, just not how to best use/set them up for my needs! I'll do some reading if any of you have a good link for me.


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> :thumbup:
> 
> 52 Days left,
> 
> ...


Dayo Sv  ,
Basically fuses are used for circuit protection & relays for load reduction https://www.google.com/#q=purpose+&+function+of+automotive+relays 

https://www.google.com/search?q=197...njoATK-oLwDg&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAw&biw=1264&bih=834

On my rail I used neither, & since you're building a track car as opposed to a street car you should need few if any of either .( https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww&ei=7cjhU8G0NtaMogSjnIC4CA&ved=0CBYQ1S4#q=kiss+principle )  .

What I did was determine the load/draw of individual components(I just had down low VW Rabbit based Hella fog lights to use as in camp lights & overhead Super Oscars https://www.google.com/search?q=osc...iYDYCw&ved=0CAUQ_AUoAA&biw=1264&bih=834&dpr=1 )








by just hooking them up to a battery with a multi meter in between & using a calculator like https://www.google.com/#q=determining+wire+gauge+for+load direct wired through individual toggle switches on the dash which could also handle that load thrown @ them,








only on when I needed them, always off when I didn't like a https://www.google.com/search?q=nas...1YGoBw&sqi=2&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ&biw=1264&bih=834  .

I picked up on this early on watching how other off roaders were paring things down to save weight with https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww...&ved=0CBYQ1S4#q=apollo+13+electrical+sequence still rolling around in my head





So if you _need_ to run a relay https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww...S4#q=what+causes+an+automotive+relay+to+fail? the relay needs to be up to snuff for the job it's expected to do, & both the positive & negative(ground) connections are _rock_ solid http://chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=8859.msg56765#msg56765 , see , Apollo 1 https://www.google.com/#q=nasa+apollo+fire failed _primarily_(but not only) due to an electrical glitch  .

""Are there packages (kits) to do this?
Not really,especially in a buggy or rail as opposed to a full bodied car,more a matter of mapping out what's there,creating a handdrawn wiring harness diagram of what you're gonna tear out,think of features that you'd want to add in,and surf around a little for a manufactured harness that at least meets those needs or fabricate one from scratch.
Then it's a matter of installing all the seperate 12V components and backtesting them for continuity *before clickin' the key for the 1st time while holding a fire extinguisher in the other hand like I did *Cheesy Cheesy . "
from
http://chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=4083.0 

""Welcome to my wiring nightmare!"
Shocked Shocked Shocked I decided to not go with fuses,if something's not set up right something's wrong,so I used one of the earliest and simplest wiring diagrams of a '50's era bug and built my own harness using a hilighter to show the true direct path between components.
*Probably looked like an idiot Embarrassed holding a fire extinguisher in my left hand and my head turned away while clickin' the start key with my right hand for the 1st time farrr outside the garage Cheesy ,but since it did fire right up and ran perfect I knew that I did the job right,*20+yrs of no electrical glitches Grin ,I'd rip and tear it all out until you decide on either a return to an open buggy format or a Manx style body,there would be considerable differences in how you would approach each one wiringwise Wink ."
from
http://chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=3998.25

Does this pretty much cover it?

:beer:


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Jade Wombat said:


> Do you have a strut tower brace my friend? There's a lot of force being transmitted through that front end and that brace you notched on lower front lip of the tank. I'd had a hell of a time fitting the fuel cell on my super also with those curvy parts.


Shown disconnected on page 1 Jade  .



Superveedub said:


> I do have a strut tower brace, but the fuel cell is now in the way of it, so I'm not sure what I'll do about that yet! Where I notched the brace I folded it back over itself and welded it for some strength, but I see your concern, I may have to do some more strengthening + modify my strut brace.


Dayo Sv  ,
Maybe just consider something like fabricated strong tubular flanged spacers _like_








from
http://dmeexpansionjoints.com/portfolio/prefab-tube/style-61-tube-assembly-flanged-each-end/ 
from
https://www.google.com/search?q=tub...YCA&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&biw=1264&bih=834#imgdii=_ only tall enough for tank clearance .

:beer::beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> ....
> Does this pretty much cover it?
> 
> :beer:


I did some reading, it did fill in some blanks that I had! I think I'll run relays for my lighting for sure.



buggyman said:


> Shown disconnected on page 1 Jade  .
> 
> 
> Dayo Sv  ,
> ...


Interesting idea! I think what I'm going to do with my setup is make new flanges for my strut bar that will move the bar out a little bit to clear the tank. :thumbup: I may have a plasma torch on the way soon.. and maybe a TIG ;P

51 Days left,

Today I was out in the garage long enough to almost end up late for work! Picture time.

Started laying out the harness sections by where they would be in the car so I could figure out where to hide them! Here is the engine harness, and the taillight harness.


Fishing wires is fun.


Almost stock location!...


Now for the front. Headlights, turn signals, and more!


Another angle.. this chunk also has a harness of signal wires for gauges. I'll have to add more maybe, but this has most of what I need.


Now some looming/cleaning up bit,


I also did some mocking up of the oil cooler in a new spot, but those pictures must not have made the upload. I'm thinking of putting the cooler on the angled part (which would be directly under your ass if there were rear seats), as opposed to the flat section of the luggage compartment. Making an enclosure that close to the cage would be a pain, so this new location should work great.


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

50 Days left,

First off I found that oil cooler picture I took yesterday, thinking here for the new location


Mounted the fuse box, which was stressful and took too much time. I found some factory tabs and modified them, then welded on little brackets. 


The exciting bit of today is what I got in the mail.. A very capable turbo for my new engine, man-o-man.


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> 50 Days left,
> 
> First off I found that oil cooler picture I took yesterday, thinking here for the new location


Dayo Sv  ,
Since it _looks like_ you'll be running a _well_ set up doghouse:thumbup:








that external looks to be ~twice the size(if even necessary) to act as a thermostatically controlled backup supplement , should probably look a little more little like this








from
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=318383
Please also read all of this http://www.geneberg.com/article.php?ArticleID=238 (twice )
both from
https://www.google.com/#q=external+oil+cooler+with+vw+doghouse
I'd place it _under_ the panel instead of over it.

Here








I'm lookin' @ your(going to be sawed through upon torque twist if left this way , ya, even with a rigid roll cage) un-centered & un-grommetized brake & fuel line passthroughs & open heater channel hole, this, from the floor to the bottom of the back window, is your enclosed vehicle's https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww&ei=NqXlU4yuO4H_igLu6YHoBg&ved=0CBYQ1S4#q=vehicle+firewall  .
So in the event of an unforeseen event




 
you want to keep the fire beast




from penetrating that wall @ all costs as long as possible .

Shorter oil line runs kept out of the passenger compartment .
Less oil to push around(frees up HP) .
Lighter weight .
Fewer chances for leaks .
https://www.google.com/#q=economy+of+efficient+racing+vehicle+designs
https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww...0CBYQ1S4#q=ohio+autocross+car+tech+inspection

Nobody else was talking:banghead::facepalm: , so I figured I would:laugh: .

:beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> Dayo Sv  ,
> Since it _looks like_ you'll be running a _well_ set up doghouse:thumbup:
> 
> 
> ...


You're probably right on the external cooler being unnecessary, I was originally going to buy a smaller one but the shop I go to for most of my goodies had that one in stock and they offered it to me for the same price as the smaller one. So ofcourse I went for it! The cooler will be on a thermostat though, so if my type 4 oil cooler cant keep up then it will pass through this one as well. I don't have a setup yet for a regulated fan, I figured I'd just put it on a switch for now so I could run it if the temp was higher than I'd like... (I figured around 230 I'd kick the fan on, if it got that high)

I plan to grommet those holes where its needed, and cover the heater channel holes with something. Originally I was just going to use some aluminum, but now I may use aluminum + something heat resistant. Rather be safe than sorry!

Good points as usual!

48 Days left,

Today I was working on the headliner, as by the time I got back to the house I only had a little time before work. I got it about a quart of the way in.. here is the 'before' and yes I see I missed a spot on the cage, didn't notice until I looked from that angle! Next time I'll have to use a less harsh grit of sandpaper to ensure my grounds are solid.


Stock headliner layed out to get some adhesive.. Also I trimmed it a bit so it would fit inside the roof area.


And I don't like it at all. The folds in the headliner keep it from sitting evenly, and I just think it looks bad! I'll be ordering some new material for the headliner now to make it nice and flat.


Also got a call from the shop the transmission is at today, they re-aligned all the gears/synchros and whatnot, did not find anything wrong with it. They put it back together, and it still takes a little more force than usual to get into second. So I'm now to put some heat cycles through it once the car is running and make sure it has enough oil, then see how it reacts. :facepalm: I spent way too much on that trans to have it not work!


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

47 days left,

Wiring fun. Disclaimer here, I'm by no means an electrician but I try to use common sense, if you see issues here call them out while I'm in the wiring mood! 

Instead of using one wire and splicing a whole lot I picked up some terminal blocks for lighting the 12 gauges. I found one for making one common ground, but not one for hot wires. So I just got a cheap terminal block and connected them all, makes sense to me but chime in if you got some knowledge for me. I figure this way I'll be able to run one + wire to every 2 gauges, and not have to deal with as much a voltage drop?


Started running wires for those terminals in one of the gauge boxes.


More wiring tomorrow.. I want to get this all done so I can focus on more exciting things!


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> 47 days left,
> 
> Wiring fun. Disclaimer here, I'm by no means an electrician but I try to use common sense, if you see issues here call them out while I'm in the wiring mood!
> 
> ...


*



Things that are turned on or off manually(on demand) are grounded to the closest possible grounding source(locally ), so you just ground it to where the component is attached(provided that your -battery to chassis to body links are all solid ), this cuts down on return wiring weight & complexity & separates them from: 
Things that require feedback in order to operate properly need to report back to their automated/automatic control unit , see, if you centralize all of your grounds into one spot then your O2 sensors & crank position sensor will be sharing the load/draw with your lights... .

You're not building a Mercedes here where the car outguesses you, you're building a car that reacts to what you manually tell it to do .

:beer:*


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> *
> 
> 
> 
> ...


*

The only common grounding I'm doing here is all the gauge lighting, not the whole car! I just didn't want to splice the wire 12 times for the hot or ground. Everything else will have its own ground wherever most convenient. :thumbup: Im all for being simple when I can, more so with wiring since Im not a big fan of it!*


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> The only common grounding I'm doing here is all the gauge lighting, not the whole car! I just didn't want to splice the wire 12 times for the hot or ground. Everything else will have its own ground wherever most convenient. :thumbup: I'm all for being simple when I can, *more so with wiring since I'm not a big fan of it*


*Neither was I * Sv  until I 1st tried to wrap my head around it , creating a _certainty_ of what I was creating _actually_ worked the way I _wanted_ it to .
So I switched from un-insulated connectors








to fully insulated https://www.google.com/#q=insulated+spade+connectors with a https://www.google.com/search?q=qti..._AUoAQ&biw=1264&bih=834#q=q+tip+swab&tbm=isch 'd splash of https://www.google.com/#q=stabilant then kept a keen eye out for _exactly how_ I wired everything https://www.google.com/#q=vw+wiring+harness+tsb  .

:beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

46 Days Left,

More wiring today, no pictures though! Worked on the GPS speedo harness and mounting the sensor. 

Also, buggyman that stabilant stuff looks very useful.. I may have to order some up!


----------



## jkallhoff (May 9, 2010)

its getting close man, looking good


----------



## WD-40 (Oct 9, 2005)

Superveedub said:


> Instead of using one wire and splicing a whole lot I picked up some terminal blocks for lighting the 12 gauges. I found one for making one common ground, but not one for hot wires. So I just got a cheap terminal block and connected them all, makes sense to me but chime in if you got some knowledge for me. I figure this way I'll be able to run one + wire to every 2 gauges, and not have to deal with as much a voltage drop?


You might not have known... but they make jumper strips that do exactly what you needed for the terminal strip. 










Just cut them to the length you need, nice and simple, and a better option electrically (no cascaded connections). :beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

jkallhoff said:


> its getting close man, looking good


Thanks:thumbup: Trying to keep the progress up, I want to be able to start the car by the end of the month.



WD-40 said:


> You might not have known... but they make jumper strips that do exactly what you needed for the terminal strip.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


:what:

:facepalm:

Damnit. I didn't know, that makes way more sense though, I'll have to find some of those!

45 Days left,

Had to run a lot of errands today so I didn't get anything done.. yet! I brought my wiring stuff to work with me, so during my down time I'll be finishing the gauge lighting harnesses for the remaining 4 gauges. Not much I know, but better than nothing. I have some graphing paper so I may draw out my wiring diagram too just too hopefully to make things easier when I get to actually put wires in!

In other news, I got my Torsion bars in the mail today.. I kept buying used OE 944 turbo bars, and the drivers side sags lower (substantially) in all of my sets. I got some upgraded 27mm bars, I'll grab some pictures when I put them in, but theyre pretty nice! Heavy though :/


----------



## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Superveedub said:


> Damnit. I didn't know, that makes way more sense though, I'll have to find some of those!


Radio Shack is where I found my terminal strips and those common-ing bars.


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

ps2375 said:


> Radio Shack is where I found my terminal strips and those common-ing bars.


Was just about to come back and ask where to find those. :beer: Thanks man!


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

WD-40 said:


> You might not have known... but they make jumper strips that do exactly what you needed for the terminal strip.
> 
> 
> 
> ...





ps2375 said:


> Radio Shack is where I found my terminal strips and those common-ing bars.


Thanks guys:beer::beer: ,
Brings up another interesting idea, either a https://www.google.com/#q=1C0-937-617 or https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww&ei=OfzqU_G7EdCBogT9joCoAg&ved=0CBMQ1S4#q=1J0-937-617-D located in the RR 1/4 panel accessible through an interior panel door right next to the battery & the rest of the engine management systems you said would be placed there Sv  , power distribution source & all fuses in one consolidated spot .

:beer:


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> In other news, I got my Torsion bars in the mail today.. I kept buying used OE 944 turbo bars, and the drivers side sags lower (substantially) in all of my sets. I got some upgraded 27mm bars, I'll grab some pictures when I put them in, but they're pretty nice! Heavy though :/


https://www.google.com/#q=sway+away+vw+torsion+bars ? Sv  ,
Usually just re-indexing them solves the problem https://www.google.com/#q=vw+torsion+bar+loss+of+flexibility but I can see where you're coming from from the "_extreme_ application" POV https://www.google.com/#q=porsche+944+turbo+rear+torsion+bar+failure VS street application .

:beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> https://www.google.com/#q=sway+away+vw+torsion+bars ? Sv  ,
> Usually just re-indexing them solves the problem https://www.google.com/#q=vw+torsion+bar+loss+of+flexibility but I can see where you're coming from from the "_extreme_ application" POV https://www.google.com/#q=porsche+944+turbo+rear+torsion+bar+failure VS street application .
> 
> :beer:


Even after re-indexing there is always less strength on the driver side, its more an issue of the spring rate than the ride height!

It would probably be a good Idea to run a fuse box in the back to keep wiring more central.. but I may already have too much of it in to change it around too much! :/ Once I get my dash settled I'll decide If I want to move things around.:thumbup:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

44 Days left,

Some more wiring as always,


Here is the GPS sender temporarily mounted, I like the location but not how I mounted it!


Got the last piece I needed to get the R32 out of the garage. Everythings all good!


Then the fedex guy showed up with some goodies..


Tig + Plasma torch! May not be the BEST setup, but it will do what I need it to. I didn't want all the stainless steel on my exhaust manifold to look like my roll cage welds turned out, figured I'll do it the right way.:thumbup:


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> Even after re-indexing there is always less strength on the driver side, its more an issue of the spring rate than the ride height!


_Pretty_ sure we talked about this before Sv  ,
After initially indexing my rail = on each side just using an angle finder on the spring plates I set the rear drums on the(level ) ground to find that the chassis leaned a _little_ to the right , looked @ the car & realized that there was an ~45LB battery on the right side, then I loaded my _massive_:laugh: 150LB body into the driver's seat & using a torpedo level on the dash crossbar found the rail leaning to the left:banghead::laugh: .
So since I knew I'd be running without a passenger ,  but  , ~90% of the time I just preloaded the left side 1 click up








from
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=124396&highlight= 
from
https://www.google.com/search?q=rei...-IogTd5IKIBQ&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&biw=1264&bih=834 
as opposed to the right side.
So if you're not gonna run a navigator in the passenger seat then you unevenly preload allowing only for the weight of the driver in the driver's seat .
Before I figured this out whenever I got airborne off road the chassis would always roll to the left in the air , after I figured it out the chassis would just launch & land straight , this would apply the same way in slalom .

Have we covered https://www.google.com/#q=understeer+vs+oversteer&spell=1 ? 



Superveedub said:


> Here is the GPS sender temporarily mounted, I like the location *but not how I mounted it!*


Took me a while to even figure out what you were talking about there
*Please* take another _close_ look @ my build
http://s72.photobucket.com/user/buggymanvw/library/?sort=3&page=4
http://s72.photobucket.com/user/buggymanvw/library/?sort=3&page=5
~75 black zipties hidden in them thar hills:laugh: , never a broken one .

:thumbup::beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> _Pretty_ sure we talked about this before Sv  ,
> After initially indexing my rail = on each side just using an angle finder on the spring plates I set the rear drums on the(level ) ground to find that the chassis leaned a _little_ to the right , looked @ the car & realized that there was an ~45LB battery on the right side, then I loaded my _massive_:laugh: 150LB body into the driver's seat & using a torpedo level on the dash crossbar found the rail leaning to the left:banghead::laugh: .
> So since I knew I'd be running without a passenger ,  but  , ~90% of the time I just preloaded the left side 1 click up
> 
> ...


The issue was when the car was off the ground, I could bottom out the drivers side suspension easily, where I could put a lot of effort into the passenger side and not hardly move it. That's why I decided to go with new bars. I will have to preload the drivers side a little bit though, makes sense to me!

I may leave the ziptip, I cant imagine how else to mount it.. plus it matches 

43 Days left,

Got the gauge lighting all wired up (for the most part, still waiting on a harness for my Air fuel gauge which was missing from the box..). It's not the prettiest but it works, I have it hooked up to a battery to test everything out.


Mmmm


Another angle.. The CHT gauges share a common ground, and they are dimmer than the rest so I think there may be a less than optimal connection there. I'll look into that tomorrow, and I may have to use the Stabilant stuff buggyman mentioned! Then again I may do that anyways.


Another angle of the speedo, I like how it lights up the best!


Tomorrow I'll start running sensor lines... Woop woop.


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> The issue was when the car was off the ground, I could bottom out the drivers side suspension easily, where I could put a lot of effort into the passenger side and not hardly move it. That's why I decided to go with new bars. I will have to preload the drivers side a little bit though, makes sense to me!


Dayo Sv  ,
The larger bars will help reduce your overall side-to-side roll rate in slalom:thumbup: , another option would be to go with adjustable spring plates https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww...d=0CBYQ1S4#q=vw+rear+adjustable+spring+plates
Initially set it up = on both sides 
Driver only(variable weight) &/or passenger(variable weight) in tow = pit crew https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww...#q=pit+crew+changing+handling+characteristics adjusts spring rate according to the load being handled after anyone/everyone's strapped in , can be changed on demand for street or slalom use . 



Superveedub said:


> I may leave the ziptip, I cant imagine how else to mount it.. *plus it matches*






 :laugh:
:thumbup: Maybe even add another one ponied up right in front of that one zipped in the opposite direction & lop off both whiskers:laugh: hangin' down.



Superveedub said:


> Another angle.. The CHT gauges share a common ground, and they are dimmer than the rest so I think there may be a less than optimal connection there. I'll look into that tomorrow, and I may have to use the Stabilant stuff buggyman mentioned! Then again I may do that anyways.
> 
> Another angle of the speedo, I like how it lights up the best!


Well, this is _probably not_ a connection problem Sv  , those look like gauges from different manufacturers
https://www.google.com/search?q=CHT...npoASQtIL4DA&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&biw=1264&bih=834 
https://www.google.com/search?q=das...-AogTUpoDIBQ&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&biw=1264&bih=834 
which may either be using different backlighting bulbs or methods(LED?)
@ the dealership we _have to_ match like & kind(blue/red/green) https://www.google.com/search?q=jet...LroASdyIGwAQ&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&biw=1264&bih=834 in order to _not_ create a visual or power draw conflict .
So 1st what you'd want to do is compare the lumen output from each gauge to see if they all match up, this is done by comparing each lighting source's wattage to the others
https://www.google.com/#q=dash+light+bulb+wattage
https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww&ei=cJPtU9mLNs_yiQKxnYAo&ved=0CBYQ1S4#q=bulb+wattage 
https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww&ei=_JjtU8uMD6axiQLqtIDQBA&ved=0CBYQ1S4#q=LED+wattage
If they're all just replaceable bulbs then just match up the bulb wattages .
If any are integrated LED's then it'd probably be best to leave them be as is unless you want to rip & tear into those gauges to change their wattage power outputs & usage in order for everything to match up =  .

:beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Buggyman I think the second zip tie is do-able, cant hurt! I'll look into those spring plates, logical idea for sure.

The gauges not matching doesn't bother me so much, I just want to make sure that it's not a wiring issue is all! Matching would be nice though. :thumbup:

42 days left,

Well no pictures today since nothing got visually done! I ran out of connectors while preparing gauge sensor wires (grabbed some from the store). I pulled out the ECU and such to figure out where I'll mount it, and I think I've decided to put it on the quarter panel. Which I'm going to make.. more on that to come!

Piping is ordered for the intake manifold and exhaust manifold. Intercooler in the mail, as well as some more misc hardware goodies that I remembered I needed to order. Tuesday Ill get my trans back and hopefully bring all the fenders down.. Then it might look like a whole car for once!


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

41 Days Left,

More wiring fun today. Still have a mess going on here, but all the gauges are nearly wired, the sensors however are still yet to be installed.


Started figured out my switch predicament as well. 


Busted out the plasma torch today. Man are these fun! I was almost late to work practicing cutting things around the garage. Here is my pretty bad cut for a piece I'm putting in the dash. I have a length of L channel steel on order to make a cutting guide for straight lines.


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> More wiring fun today. Still have a mess going on here, but all the gauges are nearly wired, the sensors however are still yet to be installed.
> 
> 
> Started figured out my switch predicament as well.


Throwin' _anything_ atcha that _might_ help Sv   ,
https://www.google.com/#q=creating+your+own+vehicle+wiring+loom 

https://www.google.com/#q=creating+your+own+vehicle+wiring+loom&tbm=vid

:thumbup::beer:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> Throwin' _anything_ atcha that _might_ help Sv   ,
> https://www.google.com/#q=creating+your+own+vehicle+wiring+loom
> 
> https://www.google.com/#q=creating+your+own+vehicle+wiring+loom&tbm=vid
> ...


Always appreciate the input! I have a lot of the plastic wire covering loom stuff I've been using, but I'm also waiting on some OEM fabric tape wire covering stuff so I can easily wrap any eyesores. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/190531866281?lpid=82)

Also, the way I've ran the wires, once everything is buttoned up the only wires visible will be from the fuse block and terminal strip under the dash. I'll have to use some of that tape in the front trunk area and of course around the engine as well.. back there will be the fun part!


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

40 days left, (10 days to meet my engine starting deadline.. Oh man! ;D)

The wiring is becoming much less intimidating.. pretty happy so far with how its coming along as it was my biggest mental hurdle. Did some work on the switch panel today, all of the wires from the fuse block are attached, now I have to connect them to their respective accessories! 


In order left to right.. Headlight low beams, fog lights, fuel pump, gauge lighting, oil cooler fan, extra switch for future install.


Installs where the air vent used to be,


Mmmm


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Dayo Sv  ,
Been staring @ this








The area below your lower gauges was the knee bar https://www.google.com/#q=automotive+knee+bar
https://www.google.com/#q=automotive+knee+bar+function
yet your dash bar is running lower than that .
When in a crash/rollover body parts tend to kinda go in unintended directions as Pat 




found out, so I'd urge to strategicaly place something like https://www.google.com/search?q=air...mICwBQ&sqi=2&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&biw=1264&bih=834
or, better https://www.google.com/search?q=air...biw=1264&bih=834#q=roll+cage+padding&tbm=isch like I did on my cage in strategic places where limbs & helmets could _possibly_ make contact with the cage .

:beer:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> Dayo Sv  ,
> Been staring @ this
> 
> 
> ...


Good point. To be honest the only reason it's there is because I cut it too short :banghead: I'll pad it, but eventually it will be replaced. Im going to reweld the whole cage as well since I have a TIG now, but not until after the show!

So before todays update, here is a little bit more of where Im at with the car.. I found out that my EDIS coil pack will NOT work with launch control/flatshifting/or rev limiting in general. I shipped my ECU off today to Washington (The dub shop, I recommend them for anyone going EFI!) to get it modified for new coil drivers so I can run LS coilpacks, therefore have rev limiting capabilities! It should be back before my engine deadline of the 28th, so it should be fine. 

39 Days left,

More wiring today ofcourse! After the aforementioned visit to the post office that is..

Here is what I got done, 
Wired in the Air Fuel ratio gauge
Finished wiring the Speedometer
Wired the Tach up

This means that the dash wiring is about 85% done, all I'm waiting on is a sender for one of the head temp gauges, and to connect the gauge power/grounds (waiting on terminal strips!). Then ofcourse there is connecting the wire tails to the sensor wire from the back. But the important part for me is that I know where everything is, and where it goes! Just a matter of crimping now. 

Picture time,




Only two, kinda lame, but soon the fun stuff happens. Tomorrow (well later today really.. Working nights screws up your mental clock!) I'm putting as many fenders as I can in the R32 to bring down, as well as the Transmission. Maybe I'll fit a bumper in there too! I may leave my rear seats at my house down here now that I think of how much **** I need to fit in there:laugh: 

Things on the way that I think are intesting - 
x4 2'x4' sheets of 3031 aluminum 
Piping for fabricating an intake
Synapse diverter valve
And something to chaingthe color of the car before the show... Since you know I wont have time for a real paint job ;D


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

38-37 days left,

Went on a parts run the last two days!

Pa.:Rts car,


Brought down my fenders/bumper/hood/trans/harness/etc


Had to make a 'custom' gauge cage for the VDO clock,


Spent the rest of the day trying to sort this mess! I need to figure out the column wiring..


:thumbup:


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> Spent the rest of the day trying to sort this mess! I need to figure out the column wiring..
> 
> :thumbup:


Dayo Sv  ,
I _think_ I already posted this, but just in case it can't hurt http://www.vw-resource.com/ignition_switch_replacement.html .

:thumbup::beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> Dayo Sv  ,
> I _think_ I already posted this, but just in case it can't hurt http://www.vw-resource.com/ignition_switch_replacement.html .
> 
> :thumbup::beer:


Not sure if you had or not but it is helpful! Appreciated as always :thumbup:

36 Days left,
Mostly just wired more gauges, all of the actual gauge power should be good now as well as gauges that require ground wires opposed to grounding through their sending units. I just have to power it from the ignition switch ACC now whenever I get to that. 


The rest of the wires hanging down are for turn signals, high beam, and wipers. Looks like a lot for just those components, but once those are tucked away everything should be clean on the outside! The more I get done with the wiring, the more I think it will be another bit I redo in the future. Right now I'm pretty much putting wires wherever they will go somewhat cleanly. It is kindof scary behind the dash! When I get more time I may go through and rerun the wires so they look more like a harness than a web.

Yesterday I got all of the metal stock I ordered so tonight It's looking like I'll start on the wiring for the engine! I have my transmission back, so I may just put that back in, then install the engine so I can cut the wires to length.  I also managed to talk my boss into getting my days off all in a row this schedule, so from Tues-Friday I'll have all day to work on the car. The goal is first start up..


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

35 Days left,

Got home late last night -_- Spent my time arranging some workspace to make my quarter/door panels to mount my electronics to. 

Made a Template from the box,


Time to make a mess


It's too easy to cut with the plasma! Had to go back in with tin snips to make it look decent!


Little cleaner on this side, I over cut with the torch then trimmed it down to size with the snips. 


Oh and some goodies that came in the mail!


Need to head out of work a bit earlier today for more time! I really want to make my deadline of the 28th for first start. My ECU should be back early next week, along with some hardware I need to install then engine. Most of the time will be wiring the engine, and fabricating the turbo piping. I have some tinwork to tweak as well too but nothing too serious.


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

34 Days left,

Working towards getting the relay board/ecu wiring in order. Running wires through the panel as such. The boards will be mounted above them. Should look clean, well see. These panels will get the same treatment as the dash too just to keep the look going. I may find something to run around the edge as well to make it a little more smooth.


Did a quick guestimate on where these wires need to be, plus I ran some more wires through the foam (which is a PAIN with this many wires..) for the gauge senders. Whenever my new coilpacks show up I'll have to run the harnesses through there as well, hope theres room! 


Not too many wires to go really, just need to get them stripped/crimped and where they belong. Still a few days to my deadline.. at least after Monday I'll have full days to work on it!


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> Working towards getting the relay board/ECU wiring in order. Running wires through the panel as such. The boards will be mounted above them. Should look clean, we'll see. These panels will get the same treatment as the dash too just to keep the look going. I may find something to run around the edge as well to make it a little more smooth.


Dayo Sv  ,
Trim-Lok http://www.trimlok.com/prod/Rubber-Lok/Edge-Trims/All-Product-Categories_118/Rubber-Lok_81.aspx 
from
https://www.google.com/search?q=she...gCw&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&biw=1264&bih=834#imgdii=_
seems to be the closest in design to what I've seen auto industry wide, like used on the MK6 window regulator panels https://www.google.com/search?q=vw+...KmigLk1YDwCA&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAw&biw=1264&bih=834 , most any Homey-D or Lowes will carry an edging/beading like this .


Superveedub said:


> I ran some more wires through the foam (which is a PAIN with this many wires..) for the gauge senders.


 That foam is kinda notorious for holding moisture & corroding the area behind the rear 1/4 windows from the interior outward:banghead: https://www.google.com/#q=rust+behind+vw+1/4+windows http://chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=4596.0 , I'd be hogging _all_ of that out, sealing up your 1/4 vents behind the 1/4 windows, then just run a single large &/or multiple small lengths of the conduit you have from the interior to the engine compartment sealing them @ each end with https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en&...Z6YHIDw&ved=0CBMQ1S4#hl=en&q=silicone+sealant  .

:beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Buggyman, that trim-lok is $$!!!! Great idea though, I'll have to try and find something like it at a hardware store, and hopefully cheaper!  The foam is an issue, that's for sure. Back in the original build when it got painted we replaced the area behind the drivers quarter vent. I didn't dig out ALL of the foam, but most of it. I wish I would have taken more out! Is there any trick to getting the rest out, besides stabbing it with a screwdriver for a few hours? 

33 Days left,

Found a home for this badboy,


Then put this one back in it's home!


Everything is lined up for my 4 days of living in the garage, I'll just have to steal my roommates argon from his MIG for my TIG after I get the rear apron sorted! Stay tuned.. things should get interesting soon


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

32 Days left,

Doin work, figuring out all the last minute materials I'll need to get everything all together. Parts run tomorrow after some more wiring! 


I had the garage door cracked for air movement.. I look back and see this guy hanging out by the door! If he had thumbs I'd toss him a wrench.. Need all the help I can get! :laugh:


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> Buggyman, that trim-lok is $$!!!! Great idea though, I'll have to try and find something like it at a hardware store, and hopefully cheaper!


:thumbup: Sv  , you could even just split lengths of something _like_ common N-020-353-27 vacuum hose https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=iw&ei=B_f7U7PgBcnriQLttYCgBA&ved=0CBMQ1S4#q=N-020-353-27 lengthwise, that's how I put the fuel line on my brake lines to protect them .



Superveedub said:


> The foam is an issue, that's for sure. Back in the original build when it got painted we replaced the area behind the drivers quarter vent. I didn't dig out ALL of the foam, but most of it. I wish I would have taken more out! Is there any trick to getting the rest out, besides stabbing it with a screwdriver for a few hours?


Well, here's what you have to look forward to getting through http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=437975 
from
https://www.google.com/#q=removing+vw+rear+quarter+panel+foam
I was thinking maybe something like a https://www.google.com/search?q=plu...1IDACw&sqi=2&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&biw=1264&bih=834
used in a https://www.google.com/search?q=lip...iIGYDg&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAg&biw=1264&bih=834&dpr=1 like way, maybe even clamp an appropriately sized








from
https://www.google.com/search?q=hol...i=2&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&biw=1264&bih=834#imgdii=_
to the end of the auger to make quicker work of opening up a series of individual/combined channels through the foam, all of this would require you pull what you've already run back out though .

:thumbup::beer:


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> I had the garage door cracked for air movement.. I look back and see this guy hanging out by the door! If he had thumbs I'd toss him a wrench.. Need all the help I can get! :laugh:


He's attracted to the car because




 :laugh: 

:beer:


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Alternate or supplement to the harsher


buggyman said:


> I was thinking maybe something like a https://www.google.com/search?q=plu...1IDACw&sqi=2&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&biw=1264&bih=834
> used in a https://www.google.com/search?q=lip...iIGYDg&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAg&biw=1264&bih=834&dpr=1 like way, maybe even clamp an appropriately sized
> 
> 
> ...


could just be a https://www.google.com/search?q=ste...rNiwKr2oDYCg&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&biw=1264&bih=834 adapted to the end of the auger after initial pilot holes were drilled into the foam, that'd kinda work like a set of https://www.google.com/search?q=wee...loHwDQ&sqi=2&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&biw=1264&bih=834 strings removing the foam & any built up rust without damaging the body metal , just throwin' shizzle:laugh: out there to consider .

:beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

31/30 Days left update,

So yesterday before my parts run all I did was end up breaking my steering column! So.. Now I'm working on getting a replacement on the way -__- Besides that I didn't get too much done except for my parts run.. Which brings us to todays progress! 

I finally decided to bust out the TIG and see what I couldn't goober up. Started practicing on some mild steel tubing that I screwed up while building my intake "T". 


After about 20 minutes or so of messing around, and some more scrap, I got some metal to stick together. No dime stacking yet but it's functional!


For some reason I didnt grab a picture of the intake by itself, but you'll see it in a few pictures. I got that handled and started on the turbo "up" pipe


A few cuts, flanges, and beads later here we are 


You can see the intake in that other picture as well as this one.. nothing fancy, not done yet.. Just needed soemthing in place to fabricate around! Here you can see my extravagantly designed downpipe. I can't find my bung for the 02 sensor so I'll have to grab one, besides that , and attaching the wastegate flange the exhaust is done!


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Down to 29 days left already? Sheesh...

Well today I got a few more things checked off the list. Started off installing the O2 bung in my downpipe.


Not coming off anytime soon,


Bam, Works for me,


After welding my flange onto my piping for the wastegate I found that it was now too short. So since I dont have another flange I un-notched the pipe, attempting to add another chunk to it, then shape that to meet with the uppipe.


Got my order of silicone adapters and whatnot in,


Made a few fuel lines


Mounted the oil filter (blurry I know)


Starting to look more like an engine though ;D


I'm still waiting on my ECU to show up, as well as the fan/alt pulley hardware. The only bit of welding I have left is the wastegate, diverter valve, and the flange for the throttle body. Today is when I'd like to have been able to crank it for the first time, but looks like it will be a little while off yet.. Which sucks cause the show coming up fast!


----------



## VWmk3GTI (May 4, 2013)

You going for a setup like this ?








:laugh:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

VWmk3GTI said:


> You going for a setup like this ?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nah that's too off the shelf for my tastes  Good setup for going fast in straight lines though Im sure, I just wanted to move into the blow-through turbo world for more boost control! :thumbup:

Updates will be tomorrow, most of today was a big parts run. Good news is the ECU came in, so tomorrow before work I'll atleast have that mounted, and the running of wiring all handled through the quarterfoam!


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

28 Days..

Got my ECU and coilpacks in today,


Made a new wastegate pipe,


Made some oil lines,


Fabbed up a little wastegate dump, not quite how I wanted it to be but I only had a little bit of pipe left, so its the best I could manage 


A few very small parts are holding up my engine start, needless to say there are a few bigger ones left too.. But those I have control over! Im missing all of my alternator pulley/fan hardware.. Can't start it without cooling it!


----------



## WFox93 (Dec 22, 2012)

Superveedub said:


> A few very small parts are holding up my engine start, needless to say there are a few bigger ones left too.. But those I have control over! Im missing all of my alternator pulley/fan hardware.. Can't start it without cooling it!


*cough* you most definitely CAN start it without cooling it, that is just based upon how quickly you want to watch all of this hard work go to waste. that being said I personally would rather wait until proper cooling is in place. 

At any rate this thing is looking awesome and I cant wait to see news of you starting it, and hope to see a video


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

WFox93 said:


> *cough* you most definitely CAN start it without cooling it, that is just based upon how quickly you want to watch all of this hard work go to waste. that being said I personally would rather wait until proper cooling is in place.
> 
> At any rate this thing is looking awesome and I cant wait to see news of you starting it, and hope to see a video


Haha, truth! The first start will also be the break in.. So 20 minutes @ 2k rpm or so to wear in the lifters to cam and such correctly.. then drain oil/adjust valves again! No way it will last 20 minutes without the fan, I wouldn't even crank it without everything being as it should! There will most definitely be a video! I have a gopro, my roommate has a gopro, and I'll set up my Nikon.. Because why not have lots of angles right?:thumbup:

27 Days left,

With all the work I did today, theres nothing visually to show really. Spent a lot of time adjusting tin fitment, and sorting through options for my oil line placement going through the fender well. Made a little bracket for the intercooler as well, but it needs some more work before showing it off  

I'm a little bummed that I don't have this thing ready to crank by now, but for added motivation I registered it in the show. It has to get there this year! I'm sick of getting to the show in another of my cars thinking "Man it would be cool if the beetle made it this year". Were on serious crunch time here, but I'm motivated.. Even if I have to stop mid way to adjust valves for my continued break in.


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

26 Days left,

Don't worry I have pictures this time!

I took my quarter panel out to finish all the "behind the scenes" wiring before I cover it up.. AKA lengthened a few sensor wires that wouldn't quite reach with their out of the box lengths. Everything should be positioned close enough in the engine bay to start clipping wires to install in the ECU relay board. Took some time to clean up the panels for final(ish) install. Adding some spin,


All back in and mounted the relay board/ECU. Trying to keep this mess as clean as possible! 


Another shot of the ECU stuff for the giggles.


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

25 Days left.. 

Played with some wiring today and mounted my master cylinder.

I wanted a nice wiper/wiring cover so I made one out of a scrap chunk of 6061 I had laying around from my first attempt at the dash. Plasma cutters are great!


Everything spun and mounted up, three reservoirs so I can track any leakage separately!


Some wiring fun, Only got a few in but its more than I had yesterday!


----------



## WD-40 (Oct 9, 2005)

Superveedub said:


> Got my ECU and coilpacks in today,


Are those the LS2 coils? I've heard good things about them. :thumbup: Not needing a driver circuit is a HUGE plus. :thumbup::thumbup:

I have a full megasquirt setup that I assembled ... sheesh... almost a decade ago now? :screwy: CB end castings with the injector brackets, and I had a custom crank trigger pulley for the Ford EDIS ignition machined by 'Beanbooger' (Boost Engineering) back before he started selling them. Life got in the way and I never got it installed on an engine or did anything other than bench testing the Megasquirt.  I don't think he makes those trigger wheels or EDIS kits anymore, but a lot of others have stepped in since then. :beer:

Of course, now that I have delayed this long, I have a dillema. The wasted-spark EDIS coil pack is a lot smaller and just one thing to mount, but people really love those LS2 coils. :thumbup: Where are you planning to mount them?


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

WD-40 said:


> Are those the LS2 coils? I've heard good things about them. :thumbup: Not needing a driver circuit is a HUGE plus. :thumbup::thumbup:
> 
> I have a full megasquirt setup that I assembled ... sheesh... almost a decade ago now? :screwy: CB end castings with the injector brackets, and I had a custom crank trigger pulley for the Ford EDIS ignition machined by 'Beanbooger' (Boost Engineering) back before he started selling them. Life got in the way and I never got it installed on an engine or did anything other than bench testing the Megasquirt.  I don't think he makes those trigger wheels or EDIS kits anymore, but a lot of others have stepped in since then. :beer:
> 
> Of course, now that I have delayed this long, I have a dillema. The wasted-spark EDIS coil pack is a lot smaller and just one thing to mount, but people really love those LS2 coils. :thumbup: Where are you planning to mount them?



They are LS coils indeed! I originally had a EDIS setup, but after reading about their limitations on rev control, I decide switch over to LS coils. All of my Megasquirt stuff, including these coils and brackets I picked up from Mario at Thedubshop, he knows his stuff! I used to run a Megajolt setup on my carbed 1641cc turbo, which used all EDIS stuff. Worked out well for that!

Boost engineering is where I got my setup as well for the megajolt.:thumbup:

I opted for the short plug wires with my coils. Mounting them will be tight with my fuel rails, but on the cyl 1-2 side I will mount the coils on the inner fender well. The 3-4 side has an extra bit of factory metal on the inner fender well right in the way for mounting these coils, so they will be mounted on the firewall as far towards the fender well as I can. There will be pictures soon!:thumbup:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

24 Days left,

Woke up late today so I missed out on 1.5hrs of garage time.. -___-.

I did get most of the wires on the relay board. Only wires left are the TPS, 02, coil grounds, coil 12+, as well as the 12+ constant/12+ switched/ground on the board itself. Blurry picture, was in a hurry though.


Had my roommate start flipping the bolts on the cage for better airflow under the car.. Plus it looks nicer this way!


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Dayo Sv  ,
Here








I'd be adding some fender washers or plates under the bolt heads in order to better spread the load .
You can also get domed covers for those bolt heads or just switch to dome headed bolts https://www.google.com/search?q=aer...=xuIHVJTdKJHkoATG9YGoAQ&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAA&dpr=1  .
Here








I'd be running Nylock nuts .
Here








I'm a little concerned about the short length of your studs not _fully_ engaging with the copperlock nuts https://www.google.com/search?q=cop...xoCoCw&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAA&biw=1264&bih=834&dpr=1 
The studs _need_ to protrude a little(~1-1/2 threads) past the tops of the nuts in order to _ensure_ a full bite .

Have you looked into a https://www.google.com/search?q=dia...6oD4CQ&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAA&biw=1264&bih=834&dpr=1 ?

Pretty much all of these can be delayed until after just a show but may want to be considered before starting the racing .

"I'm missing all of my alternator pulley/fan hardware.. Can't start it without cooling it!"
Since you're not running https://www.google.com/#q=vw+supertins please consider installing an 042-903-109 alternator pulley rather than an 043-903-109 http://chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=8794.0
Yup, you lose a _smidge_ of HP, but your cylinder & head & oil temps _will_ remain _consistently_ lower increasing the longevity of the engine .

"I opted for the short plug wires with my coils. Mounting them will be tight with my fuel rails, but on the cyl 1-2 side I will mount the coils on the inner fender well. The 3-4 side has an extra bit of factory metal on the inner fender well right in the way for mounting these coils, so they will be mounted on the firewall as far towards the fender well as I can. There will be pictures soon!"
Please don't forget a variation of the https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww&ei=SPgHVPDiC4i_oQThkICoBQ&ved=0CAYQ1S4#q=weber+windows+vw option, something like maybe piano-hinged @ the bottom with a https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww&ei=jf0HVIXOO8LroASr7ILIAw&ved=0CAYQ1S4#q=dzus or 2 on each upper corner, gasketed to keep out the schmutz, drop the door down & there's full access to both your coils attached to the doors & all plugs through your fender wells .
Just throwin' shizzle:laugh: out there to consider 

:beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> Dayo Sv  ,
> Here
> 
> 
> ...


I have button head bolts on the way, just couldn't find them! For now the regular bolts will have to do, figured it's better than the threads sticking down. Nylock nuts aren't a bad idea, I may have to pick some up.

The studs on the wastegate are just there to hold it on, they aren't loc-tite'd in yet, but once they are they should be long enough for proper thread engagement.

On the tins and such, I have all kinds of goodies for cooling built into the tins. Wider balanced fan.. Velocity ring on the inlet.. Flaps on the bottom to increase the air velocity over the heads. Not to mention the big type4 cooler and overkill auxiliary oil cooler on thermostat control (with fan). If all that doesn't keep it cool then its probably running too lean! haha.

Waiting on a reply back for the weber windows now actually! :thumbup:


----------



## WD-40 (Oct 9, 2005)

Superveedub said:


> I used to run a Megajolt setup on my *carbed 1641cc turbo*, which used all EDIS stuff. Worked out well for that!


Have a picture? 




Superveedub said:


> I opted for the short plug wires with my coils. Mounting them will be tight with my fuel rails, but on the cyl 1-2 side I will mount the coils on the inner fender well. The 3-4 side has an extra bit of factory metal on the inner fender well right in the way for mounting these coils, so they will be mounted on the firewall as far towards the fender well as I can. There will be pictures soon!:thumbup:


I was trying to decide (for my engine) if there was any way to mount them to the outer edge of the fan shroud - sort of tucked up so that the plug wires went straight down? I don't have the coils (yet) though, so I can't hold them in different places and check...



For the roll cage, who's specs are you building to? You would fail the tech inspection with SSCA for not having a matching backing plate underneath the roll cage mounts. Same with NHRA. (Fender washers would help, buggyman, but they wouldn't pass tech! ) 
(Page 117, which is page 121 of the PDF)
http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/assets/2013 GCR- January.pdf


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

WD-40 said:


> Have a picture?


Yes! I have all kinds of pictures..

Here is the megajolt setup.. spaghetti mess.. 


Trigger wheel setup


Coil pack


Kindof a shot you can see the setup..


Another,




WD-40 said:


> I was trying to decide (for my engine) if there was any way to mount them to the outer edge of the fan shroud - sort of tucked up so that the plug wires went straight down? I don't have the coils (yet) though, so I can't hold them in different places and check...


Yes you would have plenty of room to mount them there, but you might need longer wires than what I have on mine. Now that you mention it I may try that myself actually, well see if I have enough room to do so..




WD-40 said:


> For the roll cage, who's specs are you building to? You would fail the tech inspection with SSCA for not having a matching backing plate underneath the roll cage mounts. Same with NHRA. (Fender washers would help, buggyman, but they wouldn't pass tech! )
> (Page 117, which is page 121 of the PDF)
> http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/assets/2013 GCR- January.pdf


Well specs kinda went out the window when I welded it together! I was going to go the whole 9 yards with it but then I just wanted it in. I'll likely re-do it next season with my TIG, since I cant leave things alone I'll probably be pulling the body back off after modifying the cage to allow that.. The main hoop is too wide at the bottom for the body to squeeze passed it.. not exactly sure what I'm going to do about it yet but I may have to either cut the offending section out and reweld some in.. OR make a new main hoop, and practically rebuild the cage the right way. But for now its fine, I wont be tracking it this season.

22 days left is the real count I think, since I leave Thursday night. 

Anyhow, finished up the wiring on my relay board today.


Just kidding, I see now I forgot the o2 sensor lead again.. Damn! Then I'm like 98% done with it.


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

WD-40 said:


> For the roll cage, who's specs are you building to? You would fail the tech inspection with SSCA for not having a matching backing plate underneath the roll cage mounts. Same with NHRA. (Fender washers would help, buggyman, but they wouldn't pass tech! )
> (Page 117, which is page 121 of the PDF)
> http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/assets/2013 GCR- January.pdf


Couldn't agree:thumbup: more WD  ,
I wrote "or":facepalm: , shoulda been "and":banghead: .
My racing days ended in 1978 @ OCIR with this 13.00 second 1/4 mile run








https://www.google.com/search?q=oci...a=X&ei=bjEJVNXKHcSLjALKxYD4DA&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg 
Back then passing tech meant have(not necessarily wear ) a motorcycle helmet & a lap belt, no roll cage.
After that run I took the stinger off & reinstalled the https://www.google.com/#q=vw+S&S+quiet+pack+muffler because, well, it was my DD, & traction bars https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww&ei=wz0JVLmAHcf6oQSohIDQDg&ved=0CAYQ1S4#q=vw+traction+bar were just something that you cobbled up from the local hardware store which:banghead::laugh: just tore your rubber engine mounts apart:facepalm::laugh: .

Here's an old school view of a roll cage setup








http://speedwell55.skynetblogs.be/index-14.html 
And I'm _pretty sure_ this is a pic of me standing next to the LR wheel of my car








in line @ OCIR @ an earlier Bug-In with the 1641cc engine.

Sv  , get it running, get it to & back from the show without pushing it too hard, my journey was ~a 10 year alternation between a 1641cc test bed engine & the 2087cc .

:beer::beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> Couldn't agree:thumbup: more WD  ,
> I wrote "or":facepalm: , shoulda been "and":banghead: .
> My racing days ended in 1978 @ OCIR with this 13.00 second 1/4 mile run
> 
> ...


That cage looks good! I see how it's different at the bottom, that's how I wish mine was setup! I don't think this car will be fast enough in a straight line to NEED a cage, but we'll see!

21 days left,

Did some wiring today on the o2 sensor, more wires involved than I though since it has it's own heater built in as well. Not sure if that's common for gauges but I didn't expect it! Started fooling with my pedals as well, and found out the fittings I got for the reservoir feed lines are the wrong thread. So I have that fun to go through sunday when I go to some stores! Tomorrow I plan to get the battery in, and all the grounding straps in place where they need to be to start testing some wiring. I don't have the column in yet so I'll likely just have my ignition switch to test things when they are hot with acc, or crank.. or all the time.. I hope this wiring works out well the first time, I don't have time to be chasing my tail here!


----------



## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

All good WB's have their own heater ckt now. That's the only real way to get accurate and consistent readings and it allows you to not have to mount the sensor up close to the heat source(good if you don't have the room).


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

ps2375 said:


> All good WB's have their own heater ckt now. That's the only real way to get accurate and consistent readings and it allows you to not have to mount the sensor up close to the heat source(good if you don't have the room).


Ahh touché! Well at least the one I have is a good one then lol:thumbup:

20 Days left,

Well I don't have any pictures for you again, I figure you can only look at wires so many times :laugh:

I finished up all straggling wires in the dash, still have to work on the column when it comes in. Megasquirt is all wired in. Now I need to get the ignition switch wired in to make sure I have the proper power while cranking/running position, yadda yadda... Then connecting sensors on the engine.

I spent some time last night, and this afternoon making a new "to do" list in order of importance. Need to get this som-bitch done! But good news is after tonight I have 4 days off ;D Expect some progress! :thumbup:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

19 Days left,

Got some stuff done today. Nice to scratch things off the list again! Also found some more crucial pieces I need.. since I can't find the ones I have OR what I have wont work.. lovely!

First off I pulled the engine and moved it to the side,


In the now accessible engine bay, I mounted the coils where I already test fit/marked their locations. I ordered weber windows but they arent here.. So i may remount them later on when those come in.. But as of now this will work!




Went about installing my deep sump, found out I had a little piece of the case in the way.. so I made it not in the way.


Tossed the fan on the alternator. Some of you may know there is another piece of tin that goes between the fan and the tin in the picture. What exactly does that do, and is it a huge deal that I left it out? I couldnt get the fan to NOT rub on it, so its sitting off to the side, awaiting answers on it's importance 


I didnt get a picture of the sump installed. But its on.. I also started to put the clutch in.. then couldnt find my alignment too. Then I was going to put the type 4 oil cooler on, and the studs I have are too short + couldnt find the seals. So a bumped into a few little problems, but I knocked a good 5 things off my list today (list of like.. 20-25). So were making progress!


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> Tossed the fan on the alternator. Some of you may know there is another piece of tin that goes between the fan and the tin in the picture. What exactly does that do, and is it a huge deal that I left it out? I couldn't get the fan to NOT rub on it, so its sitting off to the side, awaiting answers on it's importance


Dayo Sv  ,










You're only showing plate #13 there








You need:
14 intermediate ring
12 inner plate(positioned correctly )
6 hub
8 shim*s*
7 spacer
9 wavy lock washer




from
http://chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=1110.0 




from
https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww...&ved=0CAMQ1S4#q=assembling+vw+alternator+tins

How many RPM's are you gonna be running?
http://chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=382.0 
http://chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=386.0 
http://chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=1220.0 
https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww...oGwDQ&ved=0CAMQ1S4#q=welded+vw+alternator+fan

Pretty sure this guy




https://www.google.com/#q=balancing+a+vw+cooling+fan&tbm=vid
just installed his wavy lock washer on upside down which distorts/warps the base plate of the fan where it meets up with the hub or he's got a bad bearing(s) in the alternator.
You can check for runout like neo  did to his wheels








http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5099201-74(ish)-Dune-Buggy&p=86268396#post86268396

:beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Bah! I see I see.. the only piece I'm missing is 12. What exactly does it do? I didnt see this until today. .after the engine is in!

17 Days left,

Lots of things got done today.. more so than I have pictures for believe it or not.. Here are the spoils..

Getting the tin work all together,


Oil PSI/Temp sensor. Looks goofy but it should work!




Fuel psi gauge!


Fuel lines to the rail going in,


Some drilling going on for the aux cooler, Decided to put it in the cabin.


Somewhat warm..




Oil thermostat in the foreground




Could you guess where I ran into problems trying to install this?


The cooler about 70% in,


Finally got the engine in. The pressure plate had the ring in the middle for early cars.. It wouldn't fit with my throwout bearing, had to take it off to get things to fit! Also had to make a custom starter bolt!


More to come tomorrow.. Should atleast LOOK like its ready to run.. :thumbup:


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> Bah! I see I see.. the only piece I'm missing is 12. What exactly does it do? I didn't see this until today. .after the engine is in!


Dayo SV  ,
Please think of it like you do your garage








You've got a fan pulley








http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Alternator-Fan-Pulley-Upright-Engines-040-903-109-p/040-903-109.htm
& a window fan back there on the wall .
What happens if you turn the window fan on & don't open the door on the opposite side of your garage or the garage door(s)?







:banghead:.
Just disconnect all the peripherals, pull the fan shroud/alternator assembly back up/off, rebuild the tin stack & reinstall it in the reverse order .
http://chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php?topic=3467.0



Superveedub said:


> Getting the tin work all together,


I'd be building some either rubber or tin inserts to fill in the gaps around your plug wires, pressurized airflow is _most_ needed over the heads where all the heat is 1st generated .



Superveedub said:


> Could you guess where I ran into problems trying to install this?
> 
> Finally got the engine in. The pressure plate had the ring in the middle for early cars.. It wouldn't fit with my throwout bearing, had to take it off to get things to fit! Also had to make a custom starter bolt!


You _should_ be good to go there:thumbup: https://www.google.com/#q=mixing+vw+pressure+plate+and+throwout+bearings&spell=1 , it's the other way around which won't work, why the custom bolt though?
When you added the sump did you also add it's pickup extension tube? https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww...0CAYQ1S4#q=vw+deep+sump+extension+pickup+tube , pretty important if you didn't install a windage tray http://chircoestore.com/windage-tray-for-air-cooled-vw-engines.html 
https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww...gBw&ved=0CAYQ1S4#q=vw+air+cooled+windage+tray  .
If you haven't already, you need to install grommets #'s 37 & 29 or 37A








@ your doghouse cooler dump tube .

:beer:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> Dayo SV  ,
> Please think of it like you do your garage
> 
> 
> ...


To me it seems like the piece I'm missing only directs the air from my alternator pulley fan. The opening is still there though, so it should still flow? Either way, it has to come back out anyways so that tin will make its way in!




buggyman said:


> I'd be building some either rubber or tin inserts to fill in the gaps around your plug wires, pressurized airflow is _most_ needed over the heads where all the heat is 1st generated .


That's a good idea. I had to cut a good amount of tin away to fit those big endcastings in there. I have some aluminum laying around, shouldnt be too bad to make some blocking plates for them.




buggyman said:


> You _should_ be good to go there:thumbup: https://www.google.com/#q=mixing+vw+pressure+plate+and+throwout+bearings&spell=1 , it's the other way around which won't work, why the custom bolt though?
> When you added the sump did you also add it's pickup extension tube? https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww...0CAYQ1S4#q=vw+deep+sump+extension+pickup+tube , pretty important if you didn't install a windage tray http://chircoestore.com/windage-tray-for-air-cooled-vw-engines.html
> https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww...gBw&ved=0CAYQ1S4#q=vw+air+cooled+windage+tray  .
> If you haven't already, you need to install grommets #'s 37 & 29 or 37A
> ...


I do have the pickup extension installed yes, all that is settled! And I had to "make" a bolt because I could not find the one I bought. So by custom I mean I just took a long 10mm (grade 10.9) bolt I had laying around, and ground one side nearly flat so it would sit against the starter like it should.

I have those grommets/seals for the oil cooler dump somewhere, I'll have to dig them out.. Didn't think about it to be honest, was trying to throw everything else together!


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

16/15 Days left mixed into one. 

Working on the exhaust.. Off with the rust!




And on with the hightemp paint. I wanted to make sure under all the exhaust wrap things stay nice and clean.


Speaking of exhaust wrap,


Getting everything on the car..






Also have the fuel lines to the rails made,


Oil fitting maze,


Lines ran everywhere. I do have the exhaust double wrapped on this side, and extra heat protection for the oil lines. I hate to have to run these between the pipes but I dont have any other options really.. 


Started installing bungs for the vacuum ports today as well,


Now after all this fun I realize the engine has to come back out. The wider Type 4 oil cooler is causing fitment issues against the firewall. That means the shroud is sitting at an angle, and the belt will not install correctly. I'll have the engine out, and give it a few good love taps on the firewall.. should be all good then!


----------



## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> To me it seems like the piece I'm missing only *directs* the air from my alternator pulley fan. The opening is still there though, *so it should still flow?* Either way, it has to come back out anyways so that tin will make its way in!


*Yup* Sv  ,
Straight back toward the face of the fan








for that generated heat(they create a lot of heat https://www.google.com/#q=function+of+a+water+cooled+alternator ) to be spread over _all_ the heads & cylinders & through the doghouse cooler:banghead: , the #1 rule of an aircooled engine is how to most efficiently _expel_ generated heat & not recirculate it :
https://www.google.com/search?q=air...&ei=qGkSVNCRHJKeyASRrAI&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAA&dpr=1 

https://www.google.com/search?q=air...a=X&ei=sHQSVLDpKdDgsAS76IGYAw&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ

https://www.google.com/search?q=vw+...=qXUSVN6jOZbbsATzoYD4CQ&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAA&dpr=1 

https://www.google.com/search?q=vw+...a=X&ei=UXYSVMaxBKaIsQSy_oHABw&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAg

The correct orientation of that plate ensures that all heat generated by the alternator drops to the lower exit end of the fan shroud shoved out the back door of the theater in short order mainly just between the cylinders close to the case where little heat is generated by the pistons .

While I was at this I kept staring at the pic of the Super tins(personal opinon on a less than stock engine is a :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: )








http://www.vw-resource.com/overheating.html
Too late to install them as designed , soooo how's about:vampire: just splitting them in 1/2 down the center, clipping each 1/2 to each cylinder, tying them together with a bolted plate between the lower faces backed up with an inboard & outboard loop of mechanics wire(which most people use to _lock_ these in place with anyways ) over the cylinders between the fins .

:beer:


----------



## WFox93 (Dec 22, 2012)

The more and more I read about these tins and airflow with these engines more I can relate it to cooling a computer, just like I've said in my thread. 

The more pressurized air you can get from one corner to the other ... the better time you're going to have. Even though in some cases you have to sort of insulate the bit that you are trying to cool.

Just a slight observation that has helped me to understand the way the tin work actually works and why its there


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

buggyman said:


> *Yup* Sv  ,
> Straight back toward the face of the fan
> 
> 
> ...


May not be too late to get the super tins, and install them the right way. I'll take a look when I pull the engine back out and see what I can't put together



WFox93 said:


> The more and more I read about these tins and airflow with these engines more I can relate it to cooling a computer, just like I've said in my thread.
> 
> The more pressurized air you can get from one corner to the other ... the better time you're going to have. Even though in some cases you have to sort of insulate the bit that you are trying to cool.
> 
> Just a slight observation that has helped me to understand the way the tin work actually works and why its there


:thumbup: That's the idea. I have about as many supporting tin modifications I could find, to create more flow and direct it more effectively. Now all I have to do is get it running to test them out..

14 Days left,

I'm not sure about it this year guys. By this time I needed to be putting miles on the car, giving it a good shake down. By the time it's up and running, I'll likely have only a handful of days to prepare it for the 1500+miles it will see. After having the car down for three years, hard to say if I want to risk it or not. That being said I'm not giving up on it totally, but I'll be doing some work on the M3 as well too as my backup to the show.

Welded the bungs into the intake, still not getting the welds I want, but its sticking metal together.


Fitting the new wheels on the M3,


Needs a wash bad, but 18x9 and 18x10 fitting pretty well.


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

13 Days Left,

Played with the TIG some today filing in imperfections on my T3 flange


----------



## ZeroB5 (Mar 18, 2013)

I'm hoping the lack of updates means you are working hard and getting finished in time.


----------



## WFox93 (Dec 22, 2012)

ZeroB5 said:


> I'm hoping the lack of updates means you are working hard and getting finished in time.


x2


----------



## Andy P (Jan 6, 2007)

#h2oiorbust


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

ZeroB5 said:


> I'm hoping the lack of updates means you are working hard and getting finished in time.





WFox93 said:


> x2





Andy P said:


> #h2oiorbust


I wish it were so! Truth is this year is a bust too. Things didn't fall into place, and I just dont have the time to get this thing ready for a maiden 600 mile journey in 10 days! Too many variables, not enough hands. I may be able to get it fired up before the show still, but I wouldn't be comfortable DRIVING it that far.. If I had a trailer then different story. As for now, my H2Oi chariot will be my M3. 

Good news is that theres practically no chance of it missing next years show, and I still plan to get it running / driving this year. Now my race is against the Ohio Winter.. so that could also be tomorrow.. haha.


----------



## Jade Wombat (Oct 20, 2004)

Oh well. You're persistent though and closer than ever. Don't give up! Some inspiration for you. Unemployed dreamer turns a $500 CL BMW into a race car that beats $400K pro-rally cars:

http://jalopnik.com/5497042/how-a-500-craigslist-car-beat-400k-rally-racers


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Jade Wombat said:


> Oh well. You're persistent though and closer than ever. Don't give up! Some inspiration for you. Unemployed dreamer turns a $500 CL BMW into a race car that beats $400K pro-rally cars:
> 
> http://jalopnik.com/5497042/how-a-500-craigslist-car-beat-400k-rally-racers


It is getting really close! It will get done, and I'll make sure I have pictures / videos to prove it.. By next years H2Oi it should be plenty done/road worthy/shaken down/boost turned up instead of limping it along while breaking it in!

I've seen that article before, very cool stuff!

Been fighting my M3's control arms today.. All the nuts/bolts are coming out fine but I can't get the ball joints to pop down from the knuckle/subframe! Guess I'll have to buy some pickle forks finally. 

Well at least I'm still going (as of now..) and I'll be able to get some good photo footage from the no radiator GTG next weekend for you all! I'll just park the E36 over in a corner and hide it.. :banghead::laugh:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

So H2Oi was pretty fun as always. Finally got around to uploading some pictures.. so here they are! Lighting isn't the best, but I'm also not a photographer 

















I took a shot of the M3 by the waterpark too while I was there, thought it would look good in front of the slides!


----------



## Jade Wombat (Oct 20, 2004)

Nice pics, thanks for sharing.


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Jade Wombat said:


> Nice pics, thanks for sharing.


:thumbup:

Well Ive been struggling with motivation post show, and working on other little projects.. But I'm trying to trickle back into working on the bug! Today was exceptionally warm compared to the last few day (55 degrees.. whew!) so I ended up in the garage for a bit before work. 

Really all I did was clean up the garage and put oil in the trans.. but its something!

Pictures are fun,


Couldn't quite get the bottle in place, or find a funnel! So I had to figure something else out, a chunk of -10 worked fine!


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Well here we are again. Starting to get warm outside, which means it is time for me to be a garage hermit until the car is done. I admit this has taken a lot longer than I anticipated, but being my first big project I suppose it shouldn't surprise me!

Not going to do a countdown for H20i this time around I think, as I want it to be done long before then so I can take it to many other shows/places. But if you're wondering its 183 days :laugh:

After much spring cleaning, I got to actually do things to the car. Picked up where I left off on the oil cooler setup. It's already been mounted and plumbed, with one aluminum piece on the side to direct hot air out of the cabin. So I started off making a template for the other side.



Gotta love profile gauges, made this a breeze. Cut out with snips, drilled some holes in the tabs and bent the top in the vice.


Some Silicone hose slit down the middle for a better seal,


Cut out the top piece, warped the hell out of it with the plasma torch, but got it to work when the fan was bolted on. Bent the side of this as well to have a surface for securing it.


Turned out pretty good, definitely will do the job!


Rolled the car back onto the alignment pit to get at the trans fluid easier. I managed to leave it half full all winter :facepalm: everything looks nice and shiny inside though, must have had enough level to coat most everything the times I turned it over. Its full now though finally:thumbup:


----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Another day in the garage. Didn't get anything cool looking done, just tore the rest of my wheels apart to eventually get the centers powder coated.

Already had the one apart, just one to go


After more struggle than I would have imagined, got it apart. Rubber mallet helped out a lot too!


Now onward to work.. gotta love the graveyard shift.


----------



## Andy P (Jan 6, 2007)




----------



## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Andy P said:


>


 :wave:

Little more work on the oil cooler box. I felt like it was done yesterday, then I remembered why I got the naca duct.. So back to bending up some aluminum! Still need to make sides to "seal" it off, but at least it's taking shape. :thumbup:

(crappy iphone picture, forgot to bring the camera out!)


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Well I haven't touched the car the last two days or so, but I have an excuse! I managed to cut my self on the wire inside the hose for the naca duct... Opened up a pretty good chunk of the skin between my thumb and pointer finger, and it hasn't closed up yet -_-. So I figured it would be better to let it close up before getting back out there to hack things up. Plus, being that its about 15mm long and directly on the inside joint area of my bottom thumb knuckle, the bandaging limits the use of that hand quite a bit! Ok done whining for now.. cause I actually have been up to some side projects in the house.. :thumbup:

Here's a little teaser, any guesses?


Better hint..


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## WD-40 (Oct 9, 2005)

Superveedub said:


> Ok done whining for now.. cause I actually have been up to some side projects in the house.. :thumbup:
> 
> Here's a little teaser, any guesses?



A new line of custom-fit carbon-fiber water heater covers? 
A carbon-fiber guard so you don't break the remaining tube in your fluorescent fixture?

:laugh:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

WD-40 said:


> A new line of custom-fit carbon-fiber water heater covers?
> A carbon-fiber guard so you don't break the remaining tube in your fluorescent fixture?
> 
> :laugh:


Nailed it!

No plans for a water heater cover or lighting fixtures though.  I plan to start making bits for the car, end goal is fenders / decklid / Kamei spoiler repop / etc. I WANT to do about everything I can that bolts off, but we will have to see how things turn out once I actually start getting pieces made.


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## VWmk3GTI (May 4, 2013)

If you need any help/tips with the carbon fiber work,OldAndyAndTheSea works alot with the material :thumbup:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

VWmk3GTI said:


> If you need any help/tips with the carbon fiber work,OldAndyAndTheSea works alot with the material :thumbup:


:beer::beer: Thanks for the contact! I may shoot a message to see if can get any first hand tips to avoid mistakes. :thumbup:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Was on vacation last week, so I didn't get any garage time in. Now that I'm back in town I had to do some more work on the oil cooler enclosure to finish it up! Didn't have the Nikon in the garage so Iphone pics it is!

Still working with .040 3031 aluminum here, traced out my side panels and created room for an overlap. Even with the little bit of cleanup on the cuts, I love the quickness of the plasma torch! 


Next over to my metal brake.. Or what I wish was a metal brake,


One side done, fits well when actually pushed together.


Both sides in, and tacked from the inside. Oh how I'd love to run a nice bead down the gaps here and make it all pretty, but the truth is I'm not that good with thin aluminum yet! My TIG doesn't allow for much tweaking either, no frequency adjustments and the preset is quite lower than I feel I would need here.


But, Function>Form right? Had some sealer laying around, so I taped it up to make it look atleast presentable. slathered some goop in there, peeled the tape before it cured, and here we are.


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

So its done!


Heh

Pushed it outside to work on another project in the garage. Seeing it in the sun really gave me a good feeling! Wish it really was done.. It helped get my drive back though, think the engines coming back out tomorrow so I can notch the fire wall and do some fab on the weber windows I have sitting around for this. We'll see how far it gets! Want to get some work done this week, beginning of next week I have some goodies for my R32 coming (Milltek headers, plus enough parts and pieces to build my own 3" catback) so that will take up a day or so. But after that I want to keep my water pumper projects to the minimum until I get to atleast turn the engine over! :thumbup:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Engine came out yesterday, plotted my line for notching the fire wall. Didnt tear into that yet, but I did get the naca air duct for the cooling fan set up. Repurposed a heater box flange, should work fine! Rest of the time was setting up a new vertical band saw to make exhaust work 100% easier.

Inside shot of the cooling duct,


More to come as always


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Did some math for how long the car has been apart.. Took the engine out March 1st 2013.. 792 days ago! O_O! I'm ready for it to be driving again.. I almost forget how it feels to drive a beetle!

Some more work done, first off I made a length of hose for the engine cooling fan duct.


Started preparing the firewall for the clearance bump I need to fit my type4 oil cooler.



Sized up the chunk of steel I needed to add in the firewall, got it all measure out to cut then decided to put together the welding table my roommate bought for the garage.. Took way too long! Eventually I got it cut out though. It's over sized, but the idea is to weld it in place, then cut off the extra metal on either side/grind it, and repaint it so it 


Picture makes those gaps look really bad, but they really arent terrible. Either way, nothing I can't fill with the MIG! 

Found out that I have a place to crash at Southern Worthersee If I get time off work.. The next two weeks may be hustling to get the M3 or R32 ready for some drive time!


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

So yesterday and today I worked on the firewall. Going to go ahead and throw out my welding excuses now.. I was too used to TIG and had to re-figure out my wire speed adjustments.. The metal was dirty/I didnt clean far enough up.. The wire kept jamming on the feed wheel!

Ok so since we've touched base with my welding short-comings, here's the piece 90% welded. Those gaps were mostly a huge pain, a few filled nicely, but most of the time I was filling little holes as I made them. I ground the first side down to its rough pre-POR15 prep phase.


Decided to put some stickers on that I had laying around as well. (Side note, I make these vinyl stickers myself... 30" wide plotter, PM me if you need anything made:thumbup


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Well I have a chance to go to Southern Worthersee.. So I decided to take a week to try and prepare one of the other cars for the drive. I had some parts on the way to fix my R32's manifold exhuast leak (Milltek headers..) so looks like I'll try to make a cat back for it, put those headers on.. fix a few suspension issues that I already have parts for and hopefully get the time off work! Not that you guys care about that since It's not aircooled.. But that's why my firewall isnt finished yet


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## VWmk3GTI (May 4, 2013)

Superveedub said:


> Well I have a chance to go to Southern Worthersee.. So I decided to take a week to try and prepare one of the other cars for the drive. I had some parts on the way to fix my R32's manifold exhuast leak (Milltek headers..) so looks like I'll try to make a cat back for it, put those headers on.. fix a few suspension issues that I already have parts for and hopefully get the time off work! Not that you guys care about that since It's not aircooled.. But that's why my firewall isnt finished yet


Can't speak for everybody,but I love the R32 and the bug  Have you ever been to that big VW show in Columbus?


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

VWmk3GTI said:


> Can't speak for everybody,but I love the R32 and the bug  Have you ever been to that big VW show in Columbus?


Thanks! I figured since I took the M3 to H2Oi last year, the R32 needs some show weekend love. Still up in the air if I'll have time off though, one of the cons of working on 2-week swinging schedules! :facepalm:

I went to a show in Columbus few years back, in my 1.8t GTI days.. I can't remember for the life of me what it was called though! Was a pretty nice show. :thumbup:


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## Jade Wombat (Oct 20, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> Decided to put some stickers on that I had laying around as well. (Side note, I make these vinyl stickers myself... 30" wide plotter, PM me if you need anything made:thumbup


I'll trade you some metal work for some stickers?


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Jade Wombat said:


> I'll trade you some metal work for some stickers?


Well I may be able to thing of a project, but it would be worth a ridiculous amount of stickers!:laugh: 

In other news.. Still having fun with the R32. Tore the front apart yesterday to press in new control arm bushings, balljoints, sway bar end links, tie rod ends, and front coil overs+strut mounts. New engine mounts also, had them laying around! Today tore the engine down to get at the exhaust manifolds, replaced spark plugs while I was in there. Also got the rear coil overs installed and MAN what a pain that was! I miss torsion bar suspensions. The upper and lower control arms had to come off the hub assembly, and they did NOT want to line back up.. took way too long! But things are looking good for exhaust work tomorrow. THEN it should be "done" enough to not spend all my time on it!


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## Hackintosh (Jan 5, 2012)

Hey man great work. I been following your work from day one. Awesome to see how it's l going together. I know I talked with you on the Aircooled Hooligans on Facebook. Might see this year at Volksfest in OH Aug.8. Keep up the good work. :thumbup:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Hackintosh said:


> Hey man great work. I been following your work from day one. Awesome to see how it's l going together. I know I talked with you on the Aircooled Hooligans on Facebook. Might see this year at Volksfest in OH Aug.8. Keep up the good work. :thumbup:


Thanks! Glad you're enjoying the progress, im certainly excited for how it's coming along. I hope to take it to all the shows I can once it rolls on its own power! Volksfest sounds like a good time. opcorn:

In other news, the R32 is "done" as far as the big maintenance / fun parts install goes.. Headers / Coilovers / Motor mounts / Suspension bushings are all on. A few more little pieces to install, then it will be ready for SOWO!


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Well its been a little while since I've put an update in here. With SOWO and some other schenanigans I haven't had much time to give to the beetle until today. I'll bring you up to speed on all the silly stuff that's happened the last week and change.

Lots of SOWO prep fun with the R32. Milltek headers, coilovers, some maintenance stuff.

This was before spacers, not super hella flush stanced or anything, since I like driving it hard... but definitely gets the job done!


Then me and my roommate decided "Hey, it would be sweet to get some cheap cars for drifting/shenanigans" So these happened..




Naturally, the E30 was my choice. 325is, 2.5 liters of fury. The S13 is the friendly competition, it has a SR20 redtop swapped in already. Enough of these waterpumpers though! I'll keep from posting them in here anymore, but if you want to keep up with my car schenanigans besides the beetle build, I update a lot in a nifty new app I found called Syncro. Find me on there to see updates from the beetle, M3, R32, and new drift/autoX toy E30. 

So back to beetle-land. Didnt have much time before work today, but I did manage to grind the rest of the fire wall bit down. I have to go back in and fill a few spots (TIG this time, I must have lost my touch with the MIG!), but its looking pretty good.


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Little more work yesterday.. plus I finally got my lips back! Super excited to get the wheels done, huge motivation boost. Some pictures of my mock up, still have work to do on the faces. Not 100% on the finish or how to apply the finish yet, but thinking I'm going to powdercoat them white (or paint white). Seems to be the nicest fit when photoshopped. Next runner up color would be the green on the car.




Also, I have the notch "done" now.. instead of spending more days to make it perfect, I figured I should probably make sure it works first! Timelapse fun.. (had some issues the first round getting the engine to line up with the spline)


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## Superman (Dec 8, 2000)

Great video :thumbup:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Superman said:


> Great video :thumbup:


Thanks! It turned out better than I thought it would really :thumbup: The "Camera mount" was very sophisticated too... Painters taped my Iphone to a can of brake clean on top of the roommates 240sx, then used folded garage towels as shims to adjust the angle of the picture.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

When I was re-installing the motor in my Bug, I spent an hour and a half trying to get the motor slid onto the input shaft. I had cleaned the trans and the disc was new, the next day after sleeping on it and realizing these things, the next day I put some lube on the input shaft and in 20-30 minutes I had the motor installed and bolted up, when I couldn't do it the day before. Just a bit of knowledge I gained. Thought you could use it too.

Nice build.


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

ps2375 said:


> When I was re-installing the motor in my Bug, I spent an hour and a half trying to get the motor slid onto the input shaft. I had cleaned the trans and the disc was new, the next day after sleeping on it and realizing these things, the next day I put some lube on the input shaft and in 20-30 minutes I had the motor installed and bolted up, when I couldn't do it the day before. Just a bit of knowledge I gained. Thought you could use it too.
> 
> Nice build.


It's funny how little things can give such a big fuss when installing the engine. I've done it so many times that I usually just expect it to go on! My issue was about the same, pulled it out and put a touch of grease on it, and took more time with lining it up before pushing it back. It's always fun to figure out the angle it needs pushed in at too, this was the first time I installed the engine without being super high up on jack stands too, apron cut out is great :laugh: 

Another bit of fun that you couldn't see on the video was the started bolt got pinched somehow, and I couldnt get it to push through or pull back out. Had to pull the started out to get enough wiggle room to move it. Ahhhhh the little things

Thanks!:beer:


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Yes, I have been thinking about a remove-able apron. I have only had my Bug for about 8 months, it was my father's car and he had it parked for about 20yrs(and he's not dead), I have just had it on the road for about 2 months. Motor and seats are where I have spent my time, body and paint will be a long-term project. How much work is a remove-able apron and do they weaken the rear structure any?


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> It's funny how little things can give such a big fuss when installing the engine. I've done it so many times that I usually just expect it to go on! My issue was about the same, pulled it out and put a touch of grease on it, and took more time with lining it up before pushing it back. It's always fun to figure out the angle it needs pushed in at too, this was the first time I installed the engine without being super high up on jack stands too, apron cut out is great :laugh:
> 
> Another bit of fun that you couldn't see on the video was the started bolt got pinched somehow, and I couldnt get it to push through or pull back out. Had to pull the started out to get enough wiggle room to move it. Ahhhhh the little things
> 
> Thanks!:beer:














 :laugh::beer:



ps2375 said:


> Yes, I have been thinking about a remove-able apron. I have only had my Bug for about 8 months, it was my father's car and he had it parked for about 20yrs(and he's not dead), I have just had it on the road for about 2 months. Motor and seats are where I have spent my time, body and paint will be a long-term project. How much work is a remove-able apron *and do they weaken the rear structure any?*


Hi guys  ,
https://www.google.com/#q=vw+bug+removable+rear+apron
https://www.google.com/#q=vw+bug+removable+rear+apron&tbm=vid
https://www.google.com/#q=vw+beetle+engine+swap+record
https://www.google.com/#q=vw+beetle+engine+swap+record&tbm=vid
*Not really* ps  , most of the rear structure strength is due to the integrity of the rear 1/4 panels(6)








which are designed to be "crushable" to a point depending on the force of the impact https://www.google.com/#q=vw+air+cooled+beetle+absorbing+rear+bumper+impact+absorption , the rear apron just basically ties the 2 1/4 panels together, aligning them with each other , dzus https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en#hl=en&q=dzus+fasteners generally reserved for quick change-out & service ease for racing applications , bolted with Nylock nuts https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en#hl=en&q=nylock+nuts with as wide as possible modified(cut @ the edges to fit) fender washers https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en#hl=en&q=metric+fender+washer to spread the load for street applications .
On the street, if you try to reinforce the strength of the rear 1/4 panels, you risk more injury from https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en#hl=en&q=rear+impact+whiplash :banghead: unless you're running https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en#hl=en&q=vw+beetle+high+back+seats or https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en#hl=en&q=vw+beetle+headrest+seats  .


:beer::beer:


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Nice to know Buggyman. And as it does have the the rear bumper(always will), that will help keep it stabilized also.


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

ic::thumbup:





I have been working on the car here and there, just not enough to make substantial progress! Little bit of wiring here and there really, it's still hard for me to dig into it since wiring motivation is not as easy as wheel / engine / anything else motivation!


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## Superman (Dec 8, 2000)

Quality work there. Top job. :thumbup:


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## Hackintosh (Jan 5, 2012)

looking good man !


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

So more progress :thumbup:! I know.. Priority should be Wiring>Wheels, but I don't get excited about wiring like I do with wheels.. So hopefully after these are done I'll be able to focus on NEEDs instead of WANTs:laugh:.

Before the wheels were mocked up, just with 4 bolts actually securing the face to the wheel (others were just pushed in for pictures).. Now I have 3 wheels all torqued and sealed, and the forth mostly together but I was missing a few nuts -_-! Took some more pictures, that include the bolt seats pressed in which were missing in the last few pictures.

Here you can see they are 95% the same shade of copper, but since they were multi colored, I had them shot with a chrome powedercoat, then translucent copper on top.. Opposed to the natural polished finish of the bolts, then translucent copper. I think they look just fine 


Since you'll barely see them anyways..


Put them on to check for straightness.. which I was slightly disappointed with.. A few had some slight warble-action going on. I may take them apart later on again if its bad/noticeable while driving to have them all checked out. 


For a good side view!


Now for wiring. Today is a high of 88 with high humidity.. Not real excited for that! But after work I'll be trying to do something productive out in the garage.


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## buggyman (Aug 24, 2004)

Superveedub said:


> So more progress :thumbup:! I know.. Priority should be Wiring>Wheels, but I don't get excited about wiring like I do with wheels.. So hopefully after these are done I'll be able to focus on NEEDs instead of WANTs:laugh:.
> 
> Before the wheels were mocked up, just with 4 bolts actually securing the face to the wheel (others were just pushed in for pictures).. Now I have 3 wheels all torqued and sealed, and the forth mostly together but I was missing a few nuts -_-! Took some more pictures, that include the bolt seats pressed in which were missing in the last few pictures.
> 
> ...


Hi Super  ,
Please get those rims up to snuff concentrically balanced/trued before installing _possibly_ https://www.google.com/#q=out+of+balance+new+tires , we've had a spat recently of _brand new_ tires that, no matter how we:banghead: rotated them on perfectly true rims, would not balance out, un-trued rims would create a nightmare with even good tires, a house is built on it's foundation, function over fashion .

I'm a:banghead: biocth, huh?:facepalm::laugh: .

:beer:


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## Jade Wombat (Oct 20, 2004)

How did you do that swirl effect on the door panels? opcorn:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Jade Wombat said:


> How did you do that swirl effect on the door panels? opcorn:


Used a 90* air grinder with a 3" 36grit sanding disc, WD-40, and some red scotch brite/similar abrasive pad. The 36 grit disc is to grab onto the scotch brite pad or else it slings itself to the other side of the garage. Hit the panel with a little WD40, toss the scotch brite down, then push on it with the 90* Grinder/sander and give it just enough air to spin around 3-4 times. Rinse and repeat over lapping a little to make it all fit nice, then do the same a row down but in the "gaps". Nifty little trick my dad showed me to spice up some regular aluminum panels! I've used it all over the place on the car.. Dash, doors, under car aluminum, wiper tray cover, etc.

Been making some progress on the wiring finally! A few cups of good mood (coffee) to keep my head in the game helped out tremendously. As an added perk of my job, my new schedule will let me have a lot more time off until the show (7days on, 7days off:thumbup.

Things I finished up wiring..
Steering Column (turn signals/wiper/ignition switch)
Fuel gauge / fuel sender
Oil pressure/temp gauges
Headlight switch
Oil cooler fan switch

Things I still need to do before engine can turn over..
Battery cables
Starter wiring @ solenoid
Alternator 
Mount sensors / trim wiring for Coolant temp, TPS, IAT.
Megasquirt constant hot wire

Getting pretty close to finishing all the wiring. Very happy about that, I'd like to get back to the things I enjoy.. melting metal things together to make bigger metal things!

Few pictures, mostly showing the wiring which I've cleaned up a lot. Ran all the lighting wires to where they will pass through the body to the fender wells, consolidated harnesses, hung harnesses up. Zip ties everywhere! 


Cant see many wires in this one.. which was the idea! My fuel sending unit is giving me issues as well, mounting it in a plastic tank wasn't what it was designed for. Should have no problems sealing, and it works fine.. but I need to figure out a new way to secure it. 


I also had to pick up a new battery. Last year before H2Oi my M3 murdered its own battery, so I stole the beetles... Then that one lived out its life in the M3 as well. So I grabbed a little tiny battery... because racecar?


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Been doing some work  Lacking on the photos lately, but here is the current project :thumbup:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Welded some stuff. Still not the best but by the last 90* piece (Filter elbow) I started to figure out what I should have been doing the whole time! 

Always nice to have options.. Velocity stack,




Filter,




Still have to weld the DV bungs on and the intake air temp sensor bung. Then ofcourse make a real mount for the intercooler... But this pretty much wraps up the big fabrication stuff on the engine side :thumbup:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Had to run to Summit for parts today which took way too long :banghead: But still got what I needed.

Divertervalve flange tacked and IAT sensor bung mocked up,


I usually don't get them to fit this nice, so I was excited,


While I finished up the welding, I started putting on some Reflect-A-Gold that I picked up. May be going a little overboard but heat is the enemy! Plus this hides my halfass welds decently :laugh:


Welded..


Golded,


One last piece to weld onto my intake for the Diverter valves dump, then to pull everything apart again to double check all the seals/gaskets, Check Valves, etc etc. Hope to be nearly ready to start tomorrow!


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## Hackintosh (Jan 5, 2012)

WOOOOoo do work son ! can't wait to see videos of this thing


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Hackintosh said:


> WOOOOoo do work son ! can't wait to see videos of this thing


There will be plenty I'm sure! 

Got a few more things done, but naturally Im missing one of my sensors which I'll need to get in before any fun can happen. Been taking care of the rest of the pre-start list though, today Ill need to check valves then double check all my oil line fittings.. Then work on another part of the car until my sensor gets in tomorrow / Thursday  :thumbup:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

So little update today. I was hoping the car would have been broken in by now, but in usual fashion putting things off always catches me in the end!

Yesterday my "coolant" sensor came in for the EFI, which is just a head temperature really. Either way, that's the last thing I was waiting for to put everything back together with gaskets for hopefully the final assembly. I made sure all my fittings and whatnot were tight, then hooked up my battery wiring to the starter. Found out around this time that I had swapped the Ignition and Crank wiring from my ignition switch, but that worked out nicely. The plugs were out, so I let the engine turn over enough to prime the system. Let it keep chugging till I saw oil come out of the turbo oil feed line (which is where the factory oil pressure switch was). Just from doing this and the oil filling the oil filter housing all the -8AN lines I have run everywhere, it displaced about a liter of oil. So today I'll be doing it again to make sure I have oil everywhere, then adding some more oil to make sure my level is where it needs to be. Which after it runs I'll have to do again if the oil thermostat opens up to my big cooler as I expect it will. 

I bought too much reflect-a-gold, but not so much that I didnt have to start cutting into my last roll. So I've been throwing it everywhere :laugh: . Heres a picture of how its sitting now. You may notice the random pipe bit around the oil lines, this is just there to sort of collect the oil lines, while creating a barrier between them and the exhaust. Not optimum but it will work for now.



I am pretty nervous for the cam break in cycle, so much time up to this point, cant help but think of all the "what ifs"! Hopefully tomorrow will be the day though.


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## Hackintosh (Jan 5, 2012)

Like a BOSS this thing is going to be sick opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Hackintosh said:


> Like a BOSS this thing is going to be sick opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:



 Can't wait to get it rollin!


Work is going to take forever today, I just want to go and get this thing started finally. There are a few hurdles though as there are during any event in my garage.. The check list!

-Calibrate O2 sensor
-Check fuel return line clamps
-Figure out how I managed to wire the ignition switch backwards / see if the switch is junk?
-Double check vacuum hoses to make sure they're on, and plug the vacuum line to my boost gauge since it will be a pain to hook up, and I'd rather start the engine first! Don't think 2k rpm will make boost.. 
-Set fuel pressure
-Do quick diagnostic checks on the wideband and ECU.. Since the last thing I want to do is have a faulty / unhappy Wideband, I don't want to run rich and wash the cylinders with those bigole injectors!
-Check oil level again / check for leaks.

Decent little list, but the only one that could turn into a pushback is the wiring. I was pretty confident in the wiring up until yesterday! Hope it's just a simple issue on the back of the switch, or something that swapping two wires will fix..!

How she's waiting for me back home..:heart::heart::heart:


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Man, there is alot going on there. I wish you the best with it.


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

ps2375 said:


> Man, there is alot going on there. I wish you the best with it.


It is pretty busy in there, a constant struggle to keep things somewhat clean / organized. Thanks!

Update from last night, no fire! Had a few hiccups in my plan, which pushed back the start until too late in the night. Although I did make plenty of headway for tonight. The wiring issue with the cranking when it shouldnt be is fixed now, was a simple switch up of wires. This led me to hooking up all the hots and grounds to the battery for a full electrical test. Everything seemed to work but the fuel pump! Somehow I just didn't ground it to anything, but to find that out I had to pull the tank, verify it worked with jumper wires.

Now the fun starts! So I set my phone up to record, get my laptop all set up with the ECU, calibrated the throttle body / o2 sensor, made sure my oil cooler fan worked.. Was ready to do pre-start checks. So first I go to set my fuel pressure, and find out the hard way that I forgot to tighten a handful of fittings.. Had to pull the tank and retorque the fittings near the pump/filters, and the fittings in the injector rails leak. But all at different pressures naturally, so it was fix one thing, try again, prime up to a new pressure to find the next leak! So thats how the car sits now, 90% of the leaks fixed.. The rail on the drivers side is the next problem area, and as late as it was I didnt feel like pulling the turbo off!

So tonight is round 2... Pull turbo, pull off fuel rail+tighten everything I can reach, then start? Still have time to get it broken in and some road testing before the show, but man is it cutting close :laugh:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Setbacks setbacks setbacks!

So, few things I've found out in my journey to get the engine started.. MORE checks before you start doing things! It's always exciting to try to get things running the first time, but the extra time checking everything out is really worth it. That way you aren't hunting around in-between start attempts. I thought I had everything down good, found some more easy mistakes.

The good news is that it turns over, and sputters/ignites.. But not enough cylinders to start! Between being too rich and not enough cylinders firing I can't get it to start enough to let the ECU do its thing. 

Problems I ran into first was my injector wiring, for those that don't know how fuel injection works there are two common ways, sequential (Injectors firing individually per cylinder) and batch (two or more injectors firing at the same time).. I have the latter of the two, which means the injectors need to fire in the correct pairing! 1+3 and 2+4 IIRC.. I had them wired up 1+2 and 3+4 for some reason, so I had two cylinders not firing at first... Fixed that, now I have all kinds of fuel going on. 

Another issue I think with the fueling is since my injectors are massive, they require a very small pulsewidth to not create too rich of a combustion event. Being on this batch fire setup, they fire once before the intake valves open and once as the cylinder is pulling in air/fuel. So now these big-ole-injectors need to pulse half of what the actually need on each squirt to create the right fuel mixture. So far they don't seem to happy about this... But were working on our relationship.:laugh:

Now that the fueling is closer, the ignition is still not on point(s...Haha get it? -_-). Anyways my thoughts here is I have a bum coil, either faulty internally or a wiring/ground issue on my end. I had a nice IR camera to use during my test firing phase that showed me the temperature differences on the exhaust ports.. By the time I got the fuel working "right" I was reading about 120* on cylinders 2/3/4 at the exhaust flange, but only 85-90 on cylinder #1. Going to go ahead and pickup another coil or two just for spare purposes, but also test the suspected coil before just throwing a new one in. 

I have a snipped video from the shenanigans.. so you can kind-of hear whats going on. Also apparently I have a pinhole in my turbo flange.. During the bang look for a spark shooting down on the left side -_-... Adding that to the list of things to patch up! Square hole round pipe issues.


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## Superman (Dec 8, 2000)

Superveedub said:


>


That combination of colors and machinery reminds me of the Moon landing module.


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Superman said:


> That combination of colors and machinery reminds me of the Moon landing module.


HAH! I'm a space nerd, so that's actually really cool! I like it. We'll go with it and pretend it was the plan all along :laugh:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

So some small triumphs last night but she still ain't givin it up. 

Coils were Wired wrong -_- Each coil/injector harness came nice and loomed per side, so I just twisted those together to install in the board apparently. Making pairs of 1-2 and 3-4.. Where they needed to be 1-3 and 2-4! That's all handled now, and the starts are much better, but it STILL wont continue to chug.. It will halfass-violently idle for a while, but anytime I try to add throttle to get it to accelerate it flat out dies!  

Appears that the cylinders 1-2-4 are getting hottest now, with #3 lagging behind pretty far. (It does seem to be firing sometimes though)

Drives me nuts! Probably something small I'm missing, but at this point I'm in danger of wiping the cam lobes out before I can even get it started to break in!:banghead:


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

So cam break in is done  I'll have to upload the video, even though it wasnt running the best still. Had to put a 10k resistor in line for the crank sensor signal, cleaned up the sync loss Issue I was having just enough to get it up to 2k rpm to get my cam broken in. STILL was counting loss though, needs more tinkering, but I feel better about it now that the cam is "good".. Only time will tell if I damaged the cam with all the cranking.

Drained oil and re-adjusted the valves. Now the list for test driving starts. Cutting it close, as always, but not out of the game yet.

Brake lines need finished
Tie-rods need flipped (started this earlier, found out I need front wheel bearings.. -_-)
Clutch line need finished
THrottle cable needs figured out
Hots and Grounds to the gauges
Fenders/lights/etc.

Then seat install and whatnot, but really not a bad list. Only curveball is figuring out the issue with the crank sensor.


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

:wave:

So, down to the bottom of the list... Brake lines and clutch line are finished. Gauges are totally wired now and work. 

Down to installing the pedals / figuring the throttle cable bit out, wheel bearings in the front, installing the pedals/bleeding them.. Then it will be roadtest-able. Depending on when it gets to the road test bit, and how it does, that will determine if it will make it to the show! No trailer set up for me, so it needs to make the drive .

Hoping for the best, either way im happy with the progress!


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

So as you may have assumed the beetle didn't make it to the show this year.. Which is ok, since there was a chance it would have blown away:laugh:! Or it could have sunk I suppose! I did of course make it to the show..  We did stop to help a few stranded motorists as well. 

337 out keeping all the hilarious people from splashing us while we helped out with a potentially hydrolocked E36-M3


Some after shoot action with my R32, along with buddies 337..


Anyhow, insert a few weeks of looking at the bug wishing it was done without actually working on it..

Then starting to fiddle with it some more before winter.. Had some bushings made for the shifter just to see how they would feel .. Not going to install them until the cars running and driving because I'd have no baseline performance, but they are billet.


Picked up a serious shifter, since I hated my empi lockout trigger setup (Never used it, if you want it PM me and ill sell it for cheap.)


Then I finally got a new crank speed sensor, installed it along with new wiring routed away from the alternator/injectors/coil wiring. Hooked everything up, hoping it would magically fix my signal loss issue, then went to fire it up .. Nothing! So, guess its time to hook the laptop up to the MS2, and .. Nothing again! After a few choice words, and some detective work I found this..


Now I'm no wiring guru but I don't think that should look so toasty . Likely something I caused, but I sent the MS2 back to the doctor ([email protected] Thedubshop in Washington) for a checkup. I made sure to insure it for what an MS3 costs though, crossing my fingers it fell out of the truck into a puddle and under the tire of the next vehicle in line! 

Im also at somewhat of a stand still on getting it ready for the road due to the throttle cable conundrum. Im at the point of ordering a whole throttle cable, my current genius idea is to get one with like 8" or so of cable jacket so I can loop it 180* to the bottom of my pedal box. That way, I can just hook it up.. and it should work! The other end of the cable I think I can sneak back into the other cable jacket Im using currently .. But we will see. 

So my never ending project continues.


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

So I got my ECU back, and after some more tinkering with a new VR sensor.. Here is where we are now






Running very rich.. o2 sensor either is not playing along, or its so rich it gave up. My fuel pressure was too high as well now that I think about it, I was too excited it revved passed 2k rpm to adjust it.. Had to get video for proof :laugh:

In other news, I thought more on my shifter. I've had issues with any shifter I install not going into 2nd or reverse (OR not going into any other gear). Then it hit me, I raised the transmission 1".. geometry is a bit out of whack! Im going to have to modify the tunnel a bit and get the shift rod bushing up to be at the right height for the nose cone, then in theory my shifting tightness will be relieved :thumbup:


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## Superman (Dec 8, 2000)

I hope my build will not be that complex but it probably will though. The R32 and 337 look almost the same, what engine is in the 337?


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Superman said:


> I hope my build will not be that complex but it probably will though. The R32 and 337 look almost the same, what engine is in the 337?


Scary part is I tried to make mine simple too! haha.:thumbup:

337 is the same as a 20th edition GTI, but a year newer + no sunroof. 1.8t AWP/6 speed manual car.


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## Blade3562 (Aug 17, 2012)

I just now realized you're in NEOH, how have I not heard of this build anywhere but here lol.

I'm selling my Mk1 hoping to get the funding to start my Type 34 search again or build a 2200cc Ghia.

Just got my dad's project back from paint


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Blade3562 said:


> I just now realized you're in NEOH, how have I not heard of this build anywhere but here lol.
> 
> I'm selling my Mk1 hoping to get the funding to start my Type 34 search again or build a 2200cc Ghia.
> 
> ...


Yup! Build started in my hometown in Barberton.. But now I moved a bit south for work, kinda more central/eastern-ish! :thumbup: I guess I'm pretty quiet on the local media outlets but hopefully this year the car will see some sunlight!

Paints looking great!


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## 4agedub (Mar 17, 2016)

Some interesting ideas you got there. 
Is there any specific reason that you went for an air / air cooler and not a charge cooler? On my circuit racing bug I tried a normal intercooler with air fed from the side windows, after about 4 laps the intake air temp would go past 60'c. Spraying water on the cooler also did not help much.

For my current build we decided to go for a charge cooler intstead.


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

4agedub said:


> Some interesting ideas you got there.
> Is there any specific reason that you went for an air / air cooler and not a charge cooler? On my circuit racing bug I tried a normal intercooler with air fed from the side windows, after about 4 laps the intake air temp would go past 60'c. Spraying water on the cooler also did not help much.
> 
> For my current build we decided to go for a charge cooler instead.


By charge cooler are you talking Water to Air intercooler? I did look into that route if so, but decided for now just to do air-air just to keep it simple until I get it running. End goal with this build is to run E85 and/or Water methanol injection, with those Im hoping to be able to control my intake temperature enough to keep it happy. What fuel are you running for your setup?


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## 4agedub (Mar 17, 2016)

I think your intercooler will have a hard time holding up even with e85. I've tried mine on M50 and even with water/meth, the intercooler simply does not get anough free flowing air. On my new build I'm using a water / air cooler with ice box and radiator in the front. 

What size turbo are you running?

Mine I had running on a Garrett GT3076R with 0.82 AR turbine housing. Engine size is also 2176cc. Now changing to a Garrett GT3582R ad the 30 series is simply too restrictive on the exhaust side.


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

4agedub said:


> I think your intercooler will have a hard time holding up even with e85. I've tried mine on M50 and even with water/meth, the intercooler simply does not get anough free flowing air. On my new build I'm using a water / air cooler with ice box and radiator in the front.
> 
> What size turbo are you running?
> 
> ...


Car looks great!

I'll have to see how my intake temps act, you're probably right in I'll need more cooling. 

Running a T3/T04B, V-trim compressor, .48 AR Exhaust side. Going for quick spooling, as I have a pretty moderate valve train. Hoping to keep the RPMS in the <7K range for now if the engine likes it there!


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Haaaaay :sly:

So a small update / victory from yesterday.. I had purchased a "straight" shift rod from a Karmann Ghia (I think?), anyhow it was suggested by a facebook group Im part of. I narrowed my shifting woes down to physical obstruction, and the fix was either a Type 2 nose cone, or this rod. Started with the rod since it was cheaper and much easier.. and it seems to have done the trick! I also didn't reinstall the clamp, which doesn't actually seem to do anything but get in the way. I just tried to find a picture of that clamp, but doesn't show up in any of my google searches ... so apparently its not that important! May have been my issue the whole time ... -_-

Anyhow, some intense shift action. 2nd-3rd is kinda rough still, Im going to check the clearance of the rod and top of the tunnel near the coupler, think it may be hanging up a tad or giving just enough pressure to align it goofy still. 


http://vid907.photobucket.com/albums/ac273/Superveedub/Mobile Uploads/MOV_9151_zps3oiurozn.mp4


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

So, haven't posted in a while, but I didn't stop tinkering with the car.. MIGHT make it this year 






 Dont mind the little grind trying to go into first, still getting used to driving it!

Throttle cable set up limits me to 40% throttle, and still on its base "safe" way too rich tune.


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## Jade Wombat (Oct 20, 2004)

How does it feel?


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Jade Wombat said:


> How does it feel?


Well I haven't been able to fully enjoy it yet! Trying to dissect all the new sounds to get it running how it should! VERY refreshing to move it under its own power out of the garage though :laugh:

All of the lights are wired, front turn signals aren't installed yet though as 74+ super beetles don't have an option for bumper turn signals (that I found.. store bought) So I've been grinding away at my OE bumper trying to fit them. 

Some o2 sensor issues, causing an erratic reading, preventing much fine tuning, but the trend shows pretty rich! Then again, at only 40% throttle due to cable adjustment/geometry it has plenty of issues with running to its potential.. Sure sounds pretty gnarly though!

Tach also is doing this neat thing where it shows cranking RPM but as soon as the engines running it drops to 0.. 

Little quirks to work out, but things are looking good!


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Still chipping away,

Body is mostly together now, fenders fit like ass, but they're on.. All the lights are wired and working (except the reverse light, since its not wired to my switch in the trans.. not even sure if that works!) Looking like a beetle again


Was having issues with my AFR spiking erratically, so found out the distance to the end of the exhaust was most of the issue. Had to add an ugly little extension for now to get the tune working! 


I get this neat issue where I get up to 8psi, and the car falls on its face, pretty sure I'm drowning my plugs, AFR dips into the 9s around when this happens. So, its a process. I need to get the tune a little closer before H20, but its looking like its going this year.. I have a trailer now :laugh: Should be ready though, I take time off work for the show.. so this Wednesday and on till the show I'm off. Pretty excited to be at this point in my build! Finally get to show it off a little


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## Jade Wombat (Oct 20, 2004)

Nice. All that tubing in there, nice fitment!

Yeah, MS has been a MH (Megaheadache) for me on my old girl most of the summer (firmware got corrupted, the ECU stopped seeing the trigger pulses, etc.). After that I finally plunked down the money to get the full version ($70?) of TS because I was getting nowhere trying to figure out the five moving targets of fuel delivery (priming pulse, ASE, WUE, AFR, VE, etc.--all that gives me a headache). Everything was opposite of what I was trying and I couldn't really tell if it was making it run better or worse after weeks of screwing with the tune.

Anyhoo, my WUE wasn't high enough and the VE wasn't too far off, but still it's smooth when I drive it which means more to me than over analyzing how to find that elusive 1/16 of a hp or whatever in the tune.


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## Superveedub (Jul 30, 2009)

Jade Wombat said:


> Nice. All that tubing in there, nice fitment!
> 
> Yeah, MS has been a MH (Megaheadache) for me on my old girl most of the summer (firmware got corrupted, the ECU stopped seeing the trigger pulses, etc.). After that I finally plunked down the money to get the full version ($70?) of TS because I was getting nowhere trying to figure out the five moving targets of fuel delivery (priming pulse, ASE, WUE, AFR, VE, etc.--all that gives me a headache). Everything was opposite of what I was trying and I couldn't really tell if it was making it run better or worse after weeks of screwing with the tune.
> 
> Anyhoo, my WUE wasn't high enough and the VE wasn't too far off, but still it's smooth when I drive it which means more to me than over analyzing how to find that elusive 1/16 of a hp or whatever in the tune.


Thanks 

MS is still a work in progress, my tune is decent enough now to show me other problems in my turbo setup... but this winter hopefully Ill get the motivation to change it! My WUE is still a bit wonky, but does the job. In town driving once she's all warmed up is fairly smooth.. Boost comes on slow.. so its pretty much a loud whistly stroker right now. Probably better off that way for break in though.

Made it to the show finally! Drove it around, no upsets.. Temperatures even stayed very mild on the head temp and oil! Cant beat that.


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