# MKIV Ignition Coil Wiring Harness Replacement ---- DIY



## swishersweets59 (Mar 21, 2009)

*DIY ---- MKIV Ignition Coil Wiring Harness Replacement ---- DIY*

MKIV Ignition Coil Harness Full Replacement ---- DIY

*EDIT 3-12-2011*
For *2002 automatic transmission vehicles* the following alterations will need to be made to your new harness before installation.


 The speed sensor connector will not be used (Connector will heat-shield bag). Cut and tape back the wire where it branches out from the rest of the harness
 Pins 2 and 3 that go to the 14-pin connector will not be used, only pin 7 on the connector will be replaced. Cut these and tape them back as you see fit. 


*EDIT 10-9-2011*
For *2001 automatic transmission vehicles*


 The speed sensor connector is used and replaces the current sensor.
 Remove male terminals from cavities 2, 3 and 7 of the 14 pin connector.
 Insert terminals 2, 3 and 7 into cavities 2, 3 and 7 of the 14 pin connector.
 Reinstall the 14-pin connector.


----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I just did this modification myself and I found it very hard to find any information pertaining to how exactly to go about this process and had particular trouble with the connector pins and removing the wire terminals that were necessary to remove the old wire harness and install the new one. 
Regardless I spent a very long time trying to find info about the two separate connectors that need to be accessed and ended up being able to fabricate a small little tool for the tiny pins and bought two other wire picks to release the slightly larger ones.

LEGAL: Please know that I am not responsible for any damages or items that you may accidently alter during this process. I am simply trying to help out those that want to do this themselves but just haven’t been able to find all the information they need to feel comfortable to do it themselves. 

Thank you and I hope this helps everyone out. Now let’s get started. 


*Tools you will need:*
Coil Pack Wiring Harness Replacement (http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Ignition_Coil_Harness/ES7679/)
Phillips Screwdriver 
10mm socket wrench
Terminal extractor picks
*ECS Tuning*
*YOU WANT THIS KIT IF YOU WANT TO CUT DOWN ON YOUR INSTALL TIME AND CURSE WORDS*
(http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/ES11414/ES11414/)
OR
*NAPA*
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Results.aspx?Ntt=725168&Ntk=Keyword&Nty=1&N=0 (Pictured below) 









Fabricated extractor pick (Made from two small safety pins taped together)









Magnifying glass
Lots of electrical tape or heat resistant wrap (3M self-fusing tape has been suggested)


*Getting Started*
Before we start make sure you have your radio code if you are using an OEM radio as this will be needed after you reconnect the battery.

Remove both engine covers using a Phillips screwdriver and pull off your battery cover as well.









Let’s start with removing the battery. Using your 10mm socket remove both terminals from the battery and lift out of the car.

Next let’s remove the air box, which requires a 10mm socket along with a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the two bolts holding in the air box and then loosen the clamp on the larger hose next to the MAF. 










Make sure to remove the MAF connector clip as well and put it up out of the way. At this point it just takes a little bit of maneuvering to pull the box up and out. As you remove the air box you’ll notice another hose connected to the left side. Simply pinch the connectors and move it out of the way as well. 









You’ll want to cover the MAF sensor with something so as to avoid dust and other objects from getting inside it while it is off your car. I use a latex glove fitted over the opening. 









Now it is possible to remove the battery tray that was exposed when you removed your battery. This requires the removal of four bolts using your 10mm socket. 









Now remove the vacuum air duct from the left fender by removing one 10 mm bolt with your socket.









Now remove the engine harness cable duct by releasing the bottom two clips and two other set leading up to the rain tray. (I just used my Volkswagen key to release the tabs worked like a charm.) You can disconnect the lone connector that is exposed when you remove the cover as well. 


















Now you will need to remove your wiper arms and the rain tray. I will include an attached article on how to do this from an ECU install DIY as I don’t want to take that whole thing off again. If you have any problems with it feel free to message me and I will help out as best as I can. 

http://www.scribd.com/doc/5875768/Volkswagen-GolfJetta-18T-and-VR6-ECU-Removal-How-to

Okay, now that you have access to all the wires you are going to need to work with this is where it can get tricky and where I myself had the most trouble.

Begin by locating the two connectors located inside the left fender wall right next to where the battery sits. Once you have removed and disconnected these from their holder on the wall you want to grab the connector pictured below.









You will need to first remove the cover off the back of the connecter which just requires releasing a few tabs to reveal the wires and then release the secondary locks by sliding a small screwdriver (one from an eyeglass kit works well) into the two slots on both the top and bottom of the connector pictured above.

Once this is done you can begin the process of removing the appropriate pins that will need to be replaced. Once you find the pin you need you will either need to use the fabricated tool or the two green handled tools I had shown before.
Here are some examples:


















Once you have inserted either tool I pressed down on the pin from the top with an allen wrench to get the pin released enough to pull the wire out from the bottom.
This took me several tries with the smaller pins to get the safety pins set in the holes right but just be patient and take your time and you should be okay. The key is to not get frustrated. 
Once you have removed the appropriate pins it is now time to do the same with the ECU connecter which you exposed earlier. You are going to be removing the right hand side connector by pulling on the handle on its right hand side to release it from the ECU.









Once you have the connector off the ECU there are a couple of secondary locks you must remove. The three locks are pictured below.



























Once you have the locks removed you can then pull out the two small sets of connectors to get access to the wires you need to release.









To remove these pins just insert a safety pin to the side of the hook in the slot as shown by the arrow. There is also one larger pin that you can use the two picks to release as well.

The smaller pin numbers are very hard to see but are labeled on each side of the white and black housings. (use your magnifying glass) You will have to count from either side as they are only labeled on the ends. Once you have all these wires out time for some more fun.

Now to expose your old wiring harness and begin to pull it out of the engine bay.

First remove your vacuum reservoir from the top of your valve cover. This just needs a 10 mm socket and an allen wrench (I’m not sure of the size.)


















Now begin by unclipping the four connectors from your ignition coils. You will have to decide how to get the harness out of the car. (If you want to pull from the valve cover and out or pull the connectors down under the diverter valve and out. (I did it the second way.)

After you unclip the connectors, you will need to remove another connector from the speed sensor (manual transmission only). This is located beneath your diverter valve and will have a heat shield around the connector’s wiring.









The tab for the connector is on the underside and I had to jack up the car and go underneath to release it. 

Now you will need to expose all of the wires leading from the harness up to the ECU. It is very important to you make sure you keep the right wires in the correct groups as you go about this as all of the wires do start together but then start diverging to their respective locations. 

I used colored zip ties to designate the different groups of wires and it worked great keeping the wires organized. 









I unplugged some other harnesses along the way to make room for the old harness removal and the insertion of the new one.

Now that you have the wires exposed you can begin to pull the old harness out. I just started from the ECU and threaded the wires I had removed back down the cable duct and grabbed the single connector in the duct and the other pins from the first connector along the way and routed them all the way back to the original harness.

Once you have the old harness out the install is just the opposite. Route the new wires along the same line as the old ones and once you reach the first pin connector simply find the correct slots and slide those suckers all the way in until they lock.(verify by lightly pulling on the wire to confirm it is in fact locked in.)

Connect the single pin connector as you go up the wire duct and then slide the five pins into their corresponding slots on the ECU. Now when replacing the white and black housings into the connector make sure to orient them in the correct direction.(the connector has numbers located above and below the housing slots.) Once again your magnifying glass will come in handy for this.

Make sure the housing are all the way in or else its secondary locking pin will not go back into the slot. 
After you have verified that all of your connections are sound you can begin using your electrical or thermal tape to reinsulated the wires you have exposed during this process. Take your time. You don’t want other wires cracking and becoming exposed because you were in too much of a hurry to finish this up. 

After this is complete simply reattach all of the connectors that you rewired and any others you unclipped to make room and begin installing all of the items you had to remove at the beginning of this DIY.
Thanks to everyone on the Vortex. I decided it was time for me to finally take the time and give back to the forum after it has helped me so much with repairs and modifications on my own car.
Any questions or anything I may have missed that needs clarification please let me know and I will do my best to update and/or fix ASAP.

Oh and treat yourself to several beers after and while doing this. You'll need them. I sure did haha. :beer::beer::beer:


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## robingohtt (Nov 6, 2005)

good info here..thanks


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## Henni (May 14, 2003)

very nice! :beer:


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## swishersweets59 (Mar 21, 2009)

hope it helps out. let me know if you have any questions when you do yours.


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## climacticmax (Dec 29, 2007)

if only you had put this up like 4 days ago.


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## Yosh_Cupra (Jun 28, 2008)

Top stuff there mate:beer:


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## s00p3rgl33ch (Dec 15, 2009)

Great DIY bro. Wish i had read this when i did this job on my Golf. 
:beer::beer::beer:


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## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

Well done! :thumbup:


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## swishersweets59 (Mar 21, 2009)

can you recommend your own DIY for the MKIV FAQs? haha :laugh:


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## Henni (May 14, 2003)

I will be doing this tomorrow.


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## swishersweets59 (Mar 21, 2009)

Alright cool. Let me know if you have any trouble with the install. I should be around and online periodically.


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## judoGTI (Mar 5, 2002)

Nice write up! That looks like a complete PITA.


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## swishersweets59 (Mar 21, 2009)

Oh I assure you it was! :laugh:


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## Henni (May 14, 2003)

:beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:

Great write up. It really wasn't that bad. Just VERY time consuming.

The wiring that I pulled out had tons of breaks in the insulation all along the wires. From reading up this is a major problem w/ our 1.8T's. FU VW for not having this as a recall. Fixing the coil packs everytime won't fix this problem..... :thumbdown:

The main trouble I had was extracting the pins in the connectors. I found that taking a paper clip and hammering the ends down until they were very very thin, then grinding the width to fit the holes in the plugs helped greatly. (I need to buy some terminal picks...)

I don't know about anyone else but my wiring that I bought had each of the wires numbered. If I had to eyeball it and line up the correct colors that would have taken a bit longer.

The info really helped me to get the pins out and how to pull everything apart. 

If I had the pin extractors correct the first time around it would have not taken as long. 

This job really isn't too bad at all outside of extracting the pins in the connectors.

The car runs a lot better. 100% difference.

I highly suggest doing this. My 01' 1.8T 4dr GLS thanks you!!! :thumbup:


Thanks again for the write up!!


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## swishersweets59 (Mar 21, 2009)

Yeah the pins were the most time consuming part. I had the most trouble with the smaller pins which took me quite some time. I'd say it is very much part art part science with pin connectors. 

I'm very happy you where able to do it without any other troubles. I can definitely agree with the immediate change in performance. Our cars just plain appreciate the new harness.

Good looking out and here you should have a beer too. :beer:


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## BRES (Jul 24, 2009)

very useful thread,
thank you


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## gtimitch (Nov 20, 2006)

One of the best DIY threads on this topic I've seen. Great gob documenting and illustrating the steps. This should be a sticky -- but I don't think we have moderators on this forum anymore so I wouldn't know who to make the request to.


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## Henni (May 14, 2003)

Now what I did when I did my harness was remove the box w/ the two relays and stored them in the "water fall". The black box that is next to the "water fall" is what I have removed. (I will get pics later today when I have time.) This will make more room and clean up the engine bay a bit more also.

It is pretty easy to do.


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## swishersweets59 (Mar 21, 2009)

Sweet. Post them suckers.


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## Henni (May 14, 2003)

I will. I will post some pics of my old harness also.

I am so damn stoked on how much more responsive my car is now. 

Good stuff!! :beer::beer::beer::beer:


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## Henni (May 14, 2003)

Alright. This is what I did. (Sorry if this is a bad write up, I have had a long day)

I got rid of the relay box next to the "waterfall".

This:










Split apart:










What you need to do is remove the top of the relay box. What you will find on the inside are two relays. I am a fan of not destroying what I am removing, just in case I want to be able to put it back. On the side of the relay box (where the wires come through to the relays) there is a rubber piece that will slide out. Remove that w/ the relay tray. Once the relay tray is out, look on the sides of each relay. There are two tabs. I removed one relay at a time so I wouldn't mix them up. 
Once you remove one of the relays split the tabs on the side of the plug and it will fall out. 

In this pic my fingers are pointing to each tab.










Open them up and the plug drops out. Do this to each. What I did was put some grease on the connections and then wrap up each relay w/ electrical tape. Putting grease on the connections will help against any water or condensation on the contacts.

It should look like this:










I took an x-acto knife to the rubber piece w/ the wires going through it inorder to be able to slide it down the wires. Be careful when doing this due to the wires underneath. 










Slide the rubber piece back a bit along the wires. Now you are ready to put the relays in the "waterfall".



















From here on out all you have to do is figure out how to place them inside the "waterfall" so the top cover snaps shut.

This is how mine looked when I was fitting them in.



























and the end product.












Sorry for such a crappy write up. I hope it helps out.


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## Henni (May 14, 2003)

I hope my post helped out. To anyone who does this good luck. It is 100% worth it.


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## swishersweets59 (Mar 21, 2009)

Not bad at all. Thanks for adding. I might do this too. Certainly would free up some space even if it is only a little. Every bit helps.


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## the brit (Jun 23, 2003)

Just did this, great how-to thanks!

What a mess the old wires were where they crossed the valve cover, and what a difference fixing them made!


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## the brit (Jun 23, 2003)

Added to the mk4 FAQs.


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## hidalgo13 (Oct 25, 2010)

*Trouble*

I decided to rewire my coilpack harness and everything went smoothly and i got all the connectors in the right spot and under the right number and my car starts and runs smoothly but the when i push the gas nothing happens and i cant seem to figure out where i went wrong. Please help!


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## chaveezy (Jan 31, 2010)

Just curious, as to why you would want to replace this harness?


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## Henni (May 14, 2003)

The ground wire becomes brittle over time. The insulation becomes cracked. It will cause random miss fires. Take a look at some of the pictures you will see the broken and cracked wire. 

After I replaced mine it made a 100% difference. For now VW's answer is to replace just the coil packs, it won't solve the random miss fire problems. However there is a TSB on the coil wiring harness.


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## hidalgo13 (Oct 25, 2010)

So you dont have any info or suggestion for me for my question?


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## hidalgo13 (Oct 25, 2010)

oh and the epc light came on after i did this also


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## pmaseVW (Oct 27, 2010)

*What a Kick in the D***!*

First off, thanks for putting together this DIY. It was without a doubt helpful in my efforts. However, I have a word of caution for all of those thinking of undergoing this replacement; 

Get the Schwaben toolset (http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV--1.8T/Tools/Electronic/ES11414/) for removing the terminal pins from the connector housings. It will make your life much easier. 

Without it I would suggest throwing yourself down a flight of stairs first before trying to use the "saftey pin" method. Chances are you'll end up breaking things like I did. As a result of my attempts I'm now buying a new connector housing, new terminals, and soldering them. Chances are you'll end up breaking things like I did. 
:banghead:


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## pmaseVW (Oct 27, 2010)

*Part number*

Oh, and if anyone should need the 14-pin male connector 










the part number is : 1J0973837


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## swishersweets59 (Mar 21, 2009)

hidalgo13 said:


> I decided to rewire my coilpack harness and everything went smoothly and i got all the connectors in the right spot and under the right number and my car starts and runs smoothly but the when i push the gas nothing happens and i cant seem to figure out where i went wrong. Please help!


 so the car will turn on but when the gas pedal doesnt open the throttle at all? Sorry for the late response been really busy this semester.


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## swishersweets59 (Mar 21, 2009)

pmaseVW said:


> First off, thanks for putting together this DIY. It was without a doubt helpful in my efforts. However, I have a word of caution for all of those thinking of undergoing this replacement;
> 
> Get the Schwaben toolset (http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV--1.8T/Tools/Electronic/ES11414/) for removing the terminal pins from the connector housings. It will make your life much easier.
> 
> ...


 I am very sorry to here that you had such trouble. The only thing I can say is yes either invest in the kit or be very very patient in your removal of the pins. It seriously took me a couple hours of tinkering with the three pins needed on the 14-pin connector. I just worked very slowly and tried not to get too frustrated. Again I am very sorry to hear you had so much trouble.


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## Henni (May 14, 2003)

At the time ECS was out of that schwaben set. I really wish I did have it. It took me some time to pull the pins. and yes w/o those tools it is a PITA. Just takes patience.


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

hidalgo13 said:


> I decided to rewire my coilpack harness and everything went smoothly and i got all the connectors in the right spot and under the right number and my car starts and runs smoothly but the when i push the gas nothing happens and i cant seem to figure out where i went wrong. Please help!


 Is your EPC warning light on?


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## pmaseVW (Oct 27, 2010)

*Patience*

I definitely understand the needed patience component. 12 hours of tinkering with pins is patience; why did VW feel it was necessary to have two barbs on each pin, rather than one? 

oh well, after tomorrow I should have it all wrapped up.


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## swishersweets59 (Mar 21, 2009)

hidalgo13 said:


> I decided to rewire my coilpack harness and everything went smoothly and i got all the connectors in the right spot and under the right number and my car starts and runs smoothly but the when i push the gas nothing happens and i cant seem to figure out where i went wrong. Please help!


 it sounds like a throttle body problem to me.....


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## hidalgo13 (Oct 25, 2010)

I think i might have possible figured out where i went wrong but i will have to let you know tomorrow but pretty much the car was turning on starting up and idling fine, didn't start up today when i tried but when it did it would idle and then no throttle response at all


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## Henni (May 14, 2003)

My crank position sensor caused similar problems


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## pmaseVW (Oct 27, 2010)

*Soldering New Terminals*

If you end up in my shoes, heres some info on what to do.


I obtained from my local dealer some wired terminals, both small and large. I used these to splice into the existing wires I cut from the connector (since I couldn't release the pins). Make sure you have a good handle on soldering before you try this.

First start by stripping the insulation from the wires to be spliced together. Make you sure you slip some heat shrink wrap over one wire before you solder them:










Next you want to solder the wires, make sure its a good clean solder and you don't have excess raosin glopped all over:










Then slip the heat shrink over so there isn't any copper wire exposed. Use your girlfriend's hair dryer to heat ( I used 1/8 inch dia.):











Afterwards I wrapped all the wires, put everything back in its' right place...ignition go, and no more misfires! Good to get my dub back on the road


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## torken (Jul 22, 2009)

*Whoooo!!*

Yea wat a great write up!

It was a lot easier for me than i thought! The only problem i had was getting the damn pins out of course. I ended up getting some sewing needles and hammering them down then it was a breeze!!

My coil-pack wires were so messed up and the misfires were just ridiculous. It took me probably 35 hours to complete(have a 1 month old child, it's cold and gets dark fast) and now my car runs so smooth. 

Thanks a bunch for this DIY 

love it


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## Balomo41 (Apr 2, 2009)

*Coilpack harness removal*



swishersweets59 said:


> hope it helps out. let me know if you have any questions when you do yours.


I am removing my coilpack harness and encountered some problems, from what I see in your DIY, I assume you did it on manual transmission, I have a auto transmission and my harness came from ECS Tuning and looks like manual, even the numbered pins do not match with numbers on connectors, is there anyway that this harness can still be used?
I have 2 extra connectors on the harness that I don't need, I found a very small wire that separate from the harness and probably goes to crank speed sensor( not sure yet as I haven't followed it all the way) my new harness at the end has 8 wires, the old one looks like has one wire less I am trying to post some pictures.
http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww237/balomo41/IMG_0067.jpg?t=1299430594
http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww237/balomo41/IMG_0068.jpg?t=1299430755
http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww237/balomo41/IMG_0069.jpg?t=1299430885
http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww237/balomo41/IMG_0072.jpg?t=1299431023
http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww237/balomo41/IMG_0070.jpg?t=1299431120

http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww237/balomo41/IMG_0071.jpg?t=1299431224

Absolutely the old harness needed to go.


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## bcruze (Jan 23, 2002)

Balomo41 said:


> I am removing my coilpack harness and encountered some problems, from what I see in your DIY, I assume you did it on manual transmission, I have a auto transmission and my harness came from ECS Tuning and looks like manual, even the numbered pins do not match with numbers on connectors, is there anyway that this harness can still be used?
> I have 2 extra connectors on the harness that I don't need, I found a very small wire that separate from the harness and probably goes to crank speed sensor( not sure yet as I haven't followed it all the way) my new harness at the end has 8 wires, the old one looks like has one wire less I am trying to post some pictures.


This.

I've got the same deal (5sp Tip + harness 1J0971658L from ECS) and I've been holding off installing it for the same reason. If you get it sorted out or hear anything, shoot me a message...I'd appreciate it.


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## swishersweets59 (Mar 21, 2009)

Balomo41 said:


> I am removing my coilpack harness and encountered some problems, from what I see in your DIY, I assume you did it on manual transmission, I have a auto transmission and my harness came from ECS Tuning and looks like manual, even the numbered pins do not match with numbers on connectors, is there anyway that this harness can still be used?
> I have 2 extra connectors on the harness that I don't need, I found a very small wire that separate from the harness and probably goes to crank speed sensor( not sure yet as I haven't followed it all the way) my new harness at the end has 8 wires, the old one looks like has one wire less.


Yes you use the same harness for the automatic as you do for the manual, you just have to make a few modifications before you do the install. I will add this to the DIY as soon as I can but here are the additional steps you must take.

If you have an automatic 2002 1.8t you will not need the speed sensor connector and you need to cut and tape back the wire where it branches out from the rest of the harness. In addition, you will not need pins 2 and 3 that go to the 14-pin connector located on the wall next to the battery. Again cut these and tape them back as you see fit. 

You will only need to replace pin 7 on the 14-pin connector. (Which is why you cut off pins 2 and 3)

Those should be the only differences. Now the 2001 automatic transmission is different. If you have an 01' let me know and I can make sure you are doing that right as well.

Again I will add this to the complete DIY as soon as I can. 

Let me know if you have any other questions.


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## Balomo41 (Apr 2, 2009)

*Coilpack harness removal*



swishersweets59 said:


> Yes you use the same harness for the automatic as you do for the manual, you just have to make a few modifications before you do the install. I will add this to the DIY as soon as I can but here are the additional steps you must take.
> 
> If you have an automatic 2002 1.8t you will not need the speed sensor connector and you need to cut and tape back the wire where it branches out from the rest of the harness. In addition, you will not need pins 2 and 3 that go to the 14-pin connector located on the wall next to the battery. Again cut these and tape them back as you see fit.
> 
> ...


what about the other end that goes to ECU that numbers do not match? could I just follow colrs of wires and assume that they will match and some are a bit diferent color?


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## swishersweets59 (Mar 21, 2009)

You should have to change pins 94, 95, 102, 103, 121 on the ECU. What pins were your original harness connected to?


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## Balomo41 (Apr 2, 2009)

*Coilpack harness removal*

I have 2002 auto, I figured it out, on the ECU end the pins split into two diferent connectors, one black and the other white, those are pins 94 and 95 go in one conector, 102 and 103 go in onether conector, and then pin 121 goes in the big black conector. had no trubles extracting them except for the pin 7 ground wire that I had to solder to the original one.


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## swishersweets59 (Mar 21, 2009)

Balomo41 said:


> I have 2002 auto, I figured it out, on the ECU end the pins split into two diferent connectors, one black and the other white, those are pins 94 and 95 go in one conector, 102 and 103 go in onether conector, and then pin 121 goes in the big black conector. had no trubles extracting them except for the pin 7 ground wire that I had to solder to the original one.


Good to hear! Glad you were able to figure it out.


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## J-tec (May 20, 2006)

I'm about to attempt this in a few days, any thoughts before I do it? Read your whole write-up, great stuff man, I feel pretty confident having this and VW's mechnic install documentation on this. I've been having misfire issues forEVER, and when the crazy hesitation/misfire's started happening under partial throttle, I knew it was time. 

:beer: :beer:


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## swishersweets59 (Mar 21, 2009)

J-tec said:


> I'm about to attempt this in a few days, any thoughts before I do it? Read your whole write-up, great stuff man, I feel pretty confident having this and VW's mechnic install documentation on this. I've been having misfire issues forEVER, and when the crazy hesitation/misfire's started happening under partial throttle, I knew it was time.
> 
> :beer: :beer:


Thank you for the cold ones. :thumbup:

The VW mechanic documentation is helpful but their fix just calls for a harness overlay and that is really what prompted me to go all the way and do the full replacement. VW decided to take a shortcut instead of putting in the work to run an entire new harness. TYPICAL. :thumbdown:

If you have access to a terminal pick set like the one from ECS tuning this job will be a breeze. I just couldn't justify spending $60 on a kit I would only be using for this application. Other than that definitely jack up the car to get under and release the speed senor connector, there is no use trying to get at it from the top and wasting time and then having the possibility of breaking the connector. 

If you have any other questions during the install I would be happy to answer them. Thank again and cheers. :beer::beer:


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## Balomo41 (Apr 2, 2009)

When I changed my coilpack harness, I had one issue of the car not starting, had the vagcom code 16705 Engine speed sensor (g28) P0321 I suspected the crank position sensor swaped one from another engine, no luck, bought one from VW $160 and found that it was too expensive, ordered a used one from Ebay, now on the car, still no start.a new one from ECS tuning comes tomorrow eveing.$81 OEM
I scanned again today and found these codes: 16706 Engine speed sensor (G28) no signal
16705 Engine speed sensor ( G28) implausible signal
16622 Manifold pressure/Boost sensor ( G31) Signal too high
17072 ECM power relay load circuit ( J271) Open circuit
16497 Intake air Temp Sensor (G42) Signal too high
16502 Engine coolant temp sensor (G62) Signal too high.
I am sure I did everything correct in regard to changing the coilpack harness, but even before I changed the harness I had some DTC pertaining to no start.
The thing I think of is the Mani Pressure regulator sensor wich came back after I changed the harness, a couple of weeks ago I changed turbo, and everything went Ok, but I could hear the hissing sound under acceleration, I don't know if that was related to the MAP sensor dying.
When I push the gas pedal, it feels empty.
I cleared the codes and the 16622 code( Mani Pressure/Boost sensor) remains.
could someone help?


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## swishersweets59 (Mar 21, 2009)

Balomo41 said:


> When I changed my coilpack harness, I had one issue of the car not starting, had the vagcom code 16705 Engine speed sensor (g28) P0321 I suspected the crank position sensor swaped one from another engine, no luck, bought one from VW $160 and found that it was too expensive, ordered a used one from Ebay, now on the car, still no start.a new one from ECS tuning comes tomorrow eveing.$81 OEM
> I scanned again today and found these codes: 16706 Engine speed sensor (G28) no signal
> 16705 Engine speed sensor ( G28) implausible signal
> 16622 Manifold pressure/Boost sensor ( G31) Signal too high
> ...


Could you post a full auto scan of your codes? I'll look into the others in the meantime.


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

Balomo41 said:


> When I changed my coilpack harness, I had one issue of the car not starting, had the vagcom code 16705 Engine speed sensor (g28) P0321 I suspected the crank position sensor swaped one from another engine, no luck, bought one from VW $160 and found that it was too expensive, ordered a used one from Ebay, now on the car, still no start.a new one from ECS tuning comes tomorrow eveing.$81 OEM
> I scanned again today and found these codes: 16706 Engine speed sensor (G28) no signal
> 16705 Engine speed sensor ( G28) implausible signal
> 16622 Manifold pressure/Boost sensor ( G31) Signal too high
> ...


Did you have problems with the engine speed sensor before you did the ignition harness?


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## Balomo41 (Apr 2, 2009)

the Speed sensor issue was the first thing I had when The car stopped startin' .the other few codes I got that same time were Vag 16487 P0103 intake system for leak, Maf airflor sensor, this sensor is nearly new. 17705 connection turbocharger, throttle valve pressure hose/ vacuum hose setup. 

having this code of P0103 prompted me to order a Map sensor because when I start the car, push the gas pedal down and it feels empty.( I don't know if this sensor would cause a no start) all other codes are nothing they just came after I changed the ignition harness, and when you have one thing wrong everything else seem to be wrong when are not a problem.


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## Henni (May 14, 2003)

Balomo41 said:


> When I changed my coilpack harness, I had one issue of the car not starting, had the vagcom code 16705 Engine speed sensor (g28) P0321 I suspected the crank position sensor swaped one from another engine, no luck, bought one from VW $160 and found that it was too expensive, ordered a used one from Ebay, now on the car, still no start.a new one from ECS tuning comes tomorrow eveing.$81 OEM


 Never get a used Crank Sensor. I can understand 100% it might save you money and we all love to save money and even utilize a used part over a new one due to what we can afford at the time. I would only suggest to do a new CPS and not a used one due to the used one might possibly fail on you. Replace it w/ a new one. I picked up a CPS for about $105.00 USD. It seemed to fail after I did my wiring harness. Who knows, could have been the timing of the fact I just replaced my harness. But on things like this you really don't want to use a "used" part. That part could just crap out on you or just be defective from the start. 



Balomo41 said:


> before I changed the harness I had some DTC pertaining to no start. A couple of weeks ago I changed turbo, and everything went Ok, but I could hear the hissing sound under acceleration, I don't know if that was related to the MAP sensor dying. When I push the gas pedal, it feels empty. I cleared the codes and the 16622 code( Mani Pressure/Boost sensor) remains. could someone help?


 If you had some DTC codes prior to the swap out of the wiring harness you could have other issues. You stated that you changed your turbo. Are you sure that everything is tightened up and that there are no leaks? If you are hearing a "hissing" sound then there could either be a VAC. leak or something is loose. The turbo systems on our cars are so damn touchy. If you get a VAC. leak the car will throw codes and run like poop. Look back on what work you did w/ changing out the turbo and check over everything. All VAC lines. Check, check and recheck everything.


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## Balomo41 (Apr 2, 2009)

Ok, now the brand new crank position sensor is installed, still no luck. I checked my ECU, disconnected and reconnected, cleared the codes, tried some starts, not start at all and vagcommed again and no code showed up, this morning, took out all plugs, sprayed a little bit of Carb cleaner in each of the four cyrender, put back plugs and coils, tried to start, it seemed almost to start but quikly died, and I saw some smoke coming out of the dash smelled like a burned out fuse, I checked all fuses are Ok,this is my last scan after that smoke came out. 

VCDS Version: Release 10.6.3 
Data version: 20101206 

Saturday,19,March,2011,12:05:41:53974 

Chassis Type: 1J - VW Golf/Bora IV 
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57 75 
76 

VIN: 9BWDE61J424017222 Mileage: 210390km/130730miles 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AWP.lbl 
Part No: 06A 906 032 HF 
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0005 
Coding: 07550 
Shop #: WSC 77873 
VCID: 69C4A99B39FF 
9BWDE61J424017222 VWZ7Z0A3887875 

1 Fault Found: 
16705 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Implausible Signal 
P0321 - 35-00 - - 
Readiness: 0110 1101 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 09A-927-750.lbl 
Part No: 09A 927 750 T 
Component: AG5 Getriebe 09A 0162 
VCID: 3C6A20CF06ED 

No fault code found. 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ASR.lbl 
Part No: 1C0 907 379 D 
Component: ASR FRONT MK60 0103 
Coding: 0021505 
Shop #: WSC 00000 785 00200 
VCID: 2B481393F383 

No fault code found. 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl 
Part No: 6Q0 909 605 F 
Component: 08 AIRBAG VW6 0202 0004 
Coding: 12344 
Shop #: WSC 00000 
VCID: 3A6626D70CD9 

1 Fault Found: 
00532 - Supply Voltage B+ 
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1J0-920-xx5-17.lbl 
Part No: 1J0 920 906 N 
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V02 
Coding: 07234 
Shop #: WSC 00000 
VCID: 33780BF32BB3 
9BWDE61J424017222 VWZ7Z0A3887875 

1 Fault Found: 
01304 - Radio 
49-00 - No Communications 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl 
Part No: 6N0 909 901 
Component: Gateway KCAN 0001 
Coding: 00006 
Shop #: WSC 00000 
VCID: F0F244FF9A25 

1 Fault Found: 
01304 - Radio 
49-00 - No Communications 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1C0-959-799.lbl 
Part No: 1C0 959 799 C 
Component: 1J Komfortgerát HLO 0003 
Coding: 00064 
Shop #: WSC 00000 
VCID: 37603FE33FCB 

Part No: 1C1959801A 
Component: 1J Tõrsteuer.FS KLO 0002 

Part No: 1C1959802A 
Component: 1J Tõrsteuer.BF KLO 0002 

4 Faults Found: 
00928 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Front Driver Side (F220) 
54-10 - Incorrectly Equipped - Intermittent 
00929 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Front Passenger Side (F221) 
54-10 - Incorrectly Equipped - Intermittent 
01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393) 
37-00 - Faulty 
01359 - Internal Central Locking Switch; Passenger Side (E198) 
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent 

End --------------------------------------------------------------------- 

Coul this be leading to a bad connection somewhere, or is it a bad ECU?


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

Balomo41 said:


> Could this be leading to a bad connection somewhere, or is it a bad ECU?


 It could be either. A bad connection is more likely (and less expensive to fix), so it's worthwhile to check for first.


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## swishersweets59 (Mar 21, 2009)

Are you sure you speed sensor isn't bad? Have you tried replacing it? 

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV--1.8T/Drivetrain/Sensor/ES8539/


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## Balomo41 (Apr 2, 2009)

swishersweets59 said:


> Are you sure you speed sensor isn't bad? Have you tried replacing it?
> 
> http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV--1.8T/Drivetrain/Sensor/ES8539/


 Yes the speed sensor now I have is new from ECS Tuning, but most dominant code that keeps showing up is tied to speed sensor (G28) my car was due inspection last month and registration this month, and this no start is causing me to worry. I found another engine harness at ECS Tuning that has all connectors including coilpack connectors and all sensors connectors. I don't know when it will come for ECS is slow in processing purchase and shipping. but it would be here in less than 2 weeks. 
Any thought?


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## Balomo41 (Apr 2, 2009)

It seems now that I have to turn in my plate to avoid Inspection overdue fee charge, until I fix the problem, for it is better to pay county tax than to pay state emission inspection past due. 
Today I took out starter to test if it it is faulty, I took it to Adavance auto part to be checked and they said it is good, but when I put it to battery for testing I found out that it spins only and shaft with teeth does not go forward to engage the flywheel. 
this is how my starter look like. 

http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww237/balomo41/IMG_0079.jpg?t=1301161180 

http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww237/balomo41/IMG_0080.jpg?t=1301161299 
The test I used a battery off the car direct to the starter, one end of cable ( negatif ti the body of the starter and pos to copper end that lead into the starter while the other end of cable was to Pos and Neg of the battery. the starter did spin but I did not see any forward movement of the shaft toward the end of starter where teeth meet with the flywheel, and I mesured the lenght of where the teeth are on starter is short in relation to the flywheel.


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## swishersweets59 (Mar 21, 2009)

If it isn't engaging I would say it is time for a new starter. I have no experience with fixing starters so if you wanted to try to go that route you would have to ask around. You should be able to get a refurbished starter for cheaper than a new one but they are still expensive I believe


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

swishersweets59 said:


> If it isn't engaging I would say it is time for a new starter. I have no experience with fixing starters so if you wanted to try to go that route you would have to ask around. You should be able to get a refurbished starter for cheaper than a new one but they are still expensive I believe


 :thumbup:


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## 9ineballer (Mar 17, 2011)

*kewl.. i am about a day away from swapping my harness*

good post . i have a harness im picking up at the local dealer manana, and this helps alot . Its a much more involved install than i assumed and now i'm debating whether i should have the dealer do it . they quoted me 275 $ for the labor. my current harness is tweaked . and i wonder how i could really insulate the new one to protect from heat . any suggestions ?


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## swishersweets59 (Mar 21, 2009)

9ineballer said:


> good post . i have a harness im picking up at the local dealer manana, and this helps alot . Its a much more involved install than i assumed and now i'm debating whether i should have the dealer do it . they quoted me 275 $ for the labor. my current harness is tweaked . and i wonder how i could really insulate the new one to protect from heat . any suggestions ?


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Electrical_Tape/ES10764/
this^


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## Balomo41 (Apr 2, 2009)

if the dealer can instal it for that sum, I think it is worth, I installed a new engine wiring harness,( more easy than replacing the coilpack harness) but had some truble, the oil lever sensor light is flashing, and I checked it is plugged. I used this harness.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV--1.8T/Search/Harness/ES279860/
on a 2002 VW GTI 1.8 T auto transmission.


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## XClayX (Apr 30, 2005)

Just finished this for my 2001 Jetta 1.8t WE 5spd. Total about 4hrs of work, 2 days of desperately looking for tools. I HIGHLY recommend getting the proper tool for the electrical connector next to the battery. We were able to safety pin it apart at the ECU but the connector by the battery was destroyed by the foreign objects we stuck in there. 45 Dollar part special order from VW, or 15 from ECStuning plus shipping...  

About tools. There is no where local in Osseo MN to get VW electrical tools. 
VW Dealer: They won't help you. Told us they don't sell tools, search the internet.
Napa: Said they had it, but it was a GM tool.
Oreilly: Said they had it, but wasn't correct.
Autozone: Said no.
Grainger: Tried HARD to get us the part :thumbup::thumbup: but couldn't find the proper tool.
Matco: Had the part in a catalog, special order 1 wk. 90-180 dollars.
Snap On: "insert 1hr drive" had the tool, show up, not right... Would order the correct 120 dollar tool (ONE TOOL). 1 wk wait.
Fleet Farm: lol, nope.
Radio Shack: Not even close.
MG Lock Smith: Thinking skyrim at this point...
Jo Ann Fabric: You read it right... They had needles that worked pretty freaking well, better then anything the auto stores came up with.
Machine shop for old scribs and deburing tools.

Also these found at home.
.025 Welding wire.
Paper Clips
Braid Nails
Bobby Pin 

In the end... Home Depot came to the rescue. We said screw it and got some 18-22 crimp connectors "red" and rebuild the wiring harness next to the battery. NOTE: NOT ALL WIRES ARE USED. You'll see once you look at both harnesses, x number on one harness and few more then x on the other. Just go by numbers if you need to rebuild it. i.e. 1 to 1, crimp, tape, next one. ect... NOTE: Wires change colors depending on the side of the bracket, which is why you need to use the numbers and keep track, 1 to 1 and 2 to 2 ect.

Homedepot made bracket 8 bucks.
VW bracket 50+ then you need to source the mini pin connectors. 

I also recommend taking your time. Feed the new coil pack harness along the old one, carefully follow the wires. Disassemble using your fingers so you don't split the huge pile of wires. Its VERY easy to mix the wires up, as you take the old one out, mark it, fold twist ect as old. then wire up the new one and move on. Keep Organized!

Conclusion, either get the correct tool or have a plan B when things go south. I recommend Homedepot for your plan B. Plan a weekend for this, as I mentioned before its about a solid 4 hours of work if everything goes perfect and is very organized.

This DYI helped out greatly. Grab a friend and some tasty drinks. The car went from super misfire hard start to a very healthy burnout "unexpected", it was smooth and responsive. The old wiring harness was horrible.


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

XClayX said:


> Just finished this for my 2001 Jetta 1.8t WE 5spd. Total about 4hrs of work, 2 days of desperately looking for tools. I HIGHLY recommend getting the proper tool for the electrical connector next to the battery. We were able to safety pin it apart at the ECU but the connector by the battery was destroyed by the foreign objects we stuck in there. 45 Dollar part special order from VW, or 15 from ECStuning plus shipping...
> 
> About tools. There is no where local in Osseo MN to get VW electrical tools.
> VW Dealer: They won't help you. Told us they don't sell tools, search the internet.
> ...


It can be even easier than that. Here are the things you need to remember:

- you need the pin extraction tool otherwise this is a pain in the ass
- the 10 pin connector near the battery has a purple piece inside that slides side-to-side IIRC, which locks the terminals even if you use the pin extraction tool. toggle it to the other side thennnn try using your tool to extract the pins
- the replacement harness has each pin tagged with a position in the connector.... so you can just rip out the original crap and lay down the new harness and wrap it right back up
- by a roll of the 3M Scotch self-fusing tape to rewrap the sections of the harness you split open.. which if you're doing this right, is everything from near the front of the block back to the ECU connector itself


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

[email protected] said:


> It can be even easier than that. Here are the things you need to remember:
> 
> - you need the pin extraction tool otherwise this is a pain in the ass
> - the 10 pin connector near the battery has a purple piece inside that slides side-to-side IIRC, which locks the terminals even if you use the pin extraction tool. toggle it to the other side thennnn try using your tool to extract the pins
> ...


:thumbup: on all that. The 3M self-fusing tape is Scotch 23.


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## swishersweets59 (Mar 21, 2009)

Thanks everyone for all of the input. I'm planning on editing and cleaning up the start of the DIY to encourage people to buy the extraction tools ahead of time and add helpful tips for those in the future. :thumbup::beer:


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## XClayX (Apr 30, 2005)

Odd bennefit of this repair. My headlights use to dim at idle, and now they don't. My wiring harness was horrible, i bet I had lost a ground. :thumbup::thumbup: Its been a long time since my car put a smile on my face when I hit the gas, . Highly recomended repair.


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## jon-vw (May 25, 2011)

Great write-up, it's been an breeze thus far.

One problem I am having, the 14pin connector next to the battery. Been at that connector for over an hour now and still can't remove the small pins. I should also add I'm using the schwaben toolkit. At this point I'm kinda stumped on these pins, they don't want to release.

Any tips?


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## jon-vw (May 25, 2011)

I think I know what is going on, I didn't release the secondary locks on the connector, which holes do I insert the small screwdriver into to release? i'm seeing many. are they on the black frame or those two holes on the purple surface?


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## jon-vw (May 25, 2011)

Anyone?


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

The purple insert is a retainer that keeps the pins from pushing out of the housing. You have to pull it out in order to remove or insert the pins.


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## jon-vw (May 25, 2011)

Having a little trouble removing the purple insert. Which two holes release it?


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

jon-vw said:


> Having a little trouble removing the purple insert. Which two holes release it?


It doesn't come out... it simply pushes in and out to unlock/lock. I forget which direction, though... probably pull outwards to unlock. The release holes (holes that have no other purpose than to be used to pull the TPA) are probably near the side. Use a lil screwdriver or hook end pick to pull the piece outward... should slightly click when you pull it far enough.


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

jon-vw said:


> Great write-up, it's been an breeze thus far.
> 
> One problem I am having, the 14pin connector next to the battery. Been at that connector for over an hour now and still can't remove the small pins. I should also add I'm using the schwaben toolkit. At this point I'm kinda stumped on these pins, they don't want to release.
> 
> Any tips?


I also had much difficulty with this clip. Slide the security retainer to the side. Like others said it does not need to come out. Now I'm not sure what exactly solved my problem. Either it was just repeated attempts and it finally worked or I also inserted the small square end tool into the face of the purple connector (there are 4 square pin openings). I'm not sure if that helped unlock the wires but the 2nd day I attempted to depin I was able to remove them.


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

Or maybe it pushes side to side.


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## jon-vw (May 25, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> It doesn't come out... it simply pushes in and out to unlock/lock. I forget which direction, though... probably pull outwards to unlock. The release holes (holes that have no other purpose than to be used to pull the TPA) are probably near the side. Use a lil screwdriver or hook end pick to pull the piece outward... should slightly click when you pull it far enough.


I'll give this a try first as I don't want to break the connector in frustration and open up a can of worms. The ECU pins were a breeze btw.

Thanks for your help guys :beer:


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

[email protected] said:


> Or maybe it pushes side to side.


Yes, it pushes out the side.


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

BassNotes said:


> Yes, it pushes out the side.


To the side. Not out the side.


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## jon-vw (May 25, 2011)

Yep, it definitely slid to the side. Buggers still won't come out, lol, I've tried sliding in both directions. Just these 3 pins left and I can fire the car up. I'll keep trying, it's bound to come out eventually.

This damn connector makes me want to strangle a kitten....


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

jon-vw said:


> Yep, it definitely slid to the side. Buggers still won't come out, lol, I've tried sliding in both directions. Just these 3 pins left and I can fire the car up. I'll keep trying, it's bound to come out eventually.
> 
> This damn connector makes me want to strangle a kitten....


If it slides side to side... then you're one step closer. One of the positions has to be the right one. Also... don't forget that every pin has a locking tab that needs to be depressed. The purple lock simply means you can't get the pin out even if you have the tool... so it has to be in the open position AND you need to depressing the lock tab on the pin (thru the holes in the front) and apply firm pulling pressure to the wire while doing so.

Don't yank it... just tug on it with some decent pull and make sure you're pushing down the tab inside for the pin... you'll get it. :thumbup:


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## DreSin (Jan 29, 2012)

could the wiring harness being cracked cause the 4 fuel injectors being short to ground? i have cracks on my wiring harness and i have a new one to replace it but not the tools. 
I really dont feel like messing something up 


VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.1 
Tuesday, 03 April 2012, 15:10:42:56075 


Chassis Type: 9M - VW Jetta IV 
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,16,17,19,22,29,35,36,37,39,46,47,55,56,57,75,76 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AWW.LBL 
Controller: 06A 906 032 DL 
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G01 0003 
Coding: 07500 
Shop #: WSC 00066 
VCID: 6BA99FA40A8B 
10 Faults Found: 
17705 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!) 
P1297 - 35-00 - - 
17964 - Charge Pressure Control: Negative Deviation 
P1556 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected 
P0300 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 
16685 - Cylinder 1: Misfire Detected 
P0301 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 
16686 - Cylinder 2: Misfire Detected 
P0302 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low 
P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 
17633 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1 (N30): Short to Ground 
P1225 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 
17635 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 3 (N32): Short to Ground 
P1227 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 
 17636 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 4 (N33): Short to Ground 
P1228 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 
17634 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 2 (N31): Short to Ground 
P1226 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 
Readiness: 0000 0000


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## mymkivrubs (Mar 4, 2012)

DreSin said:


> could the wiring harness being cracked cause the 4 fuel injectors being short to ground? i have cracks on my wiring harness and i have a new one to replace it but not the tools.
> I really dont feel like messing something up
> 
> 
> ...


 
The short to ground codes have been fixed. If you still had a short to the ground, the car wouldn't start. They were just never cleared before you scanned them again.


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## jon-vw (May 25, 2011)

There's an arrow on the face of the purple connecter. To release the locks, slide the the purple face in the direction OPPOSITE of where the arrow is pointing. 

Regarding that same connector: 

The larger of the 3 pins will come out no hassle using the toolkit. Insert the tool into the release slots and gently pull the wire from the underside. 

The smaller 2 pins is the tricky part. First you release the locks by using the tool in the two slots, and taking a mini-sized pair of needle nose pliers pull up on the pin as if you were inserting it and gently push back down to release. This technique seemed to be the best way to get the prongs on the terminal to release. 

Job's all done now, thank you kindly to everyone for your help  :beer: :beer: :beer:


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## rbuicki (Jan 21, 2012)

Why do you need to get to the ECU to only replace the coilpack harness?


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## jon-vw (May 25, 2011)

Because the coilpack harness, when replaced the CORRECT way, runs all the way to the ECU connector, amongst others...


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

jon-vw said:


> Because the coilpack harness, when replaced the CORRECT way, runs all the way to the ECU connector, amongst others...


Yep.

Taps into the ECU connector and the big connector by the driver's side headlight.


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## rbuicki (Jan 21, 2012)

tapping into the ecu seems kinda intimidating for me since i'm scared to ruin it.  Any intermediate mechanics have troubles with this kind of job?


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## jon-vw (May 25, 2011)

Dude, I work on computer mainframes for a living. I'm anything but a mechanic. If I can do it, you can too.

Fyi, I used the VW Technical Service Bulletin alongside this DIY. Get the schwaben toolkit, I highly advice this.


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

rbuicki said:


> tapping into the ecu seems kinda intimidating for me since i'm scared to ruin it.  Any intermediate mechanics have troubles with this kind of job?


It's not tapping in, per se. You remove two pins and replace them with the pins/wire from the new harness. Literally, for removing the pins, you just need a knife or something to press down a visible, plain-sight tab... one tab, pull wire, and its out. Putting the wires back in is dead simple, too.

Hardest part is wrapping the harness back up and getting it to sit in the same exact position as before.


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## Rossabal (Aug 31, 2009)

Just tried this as previous owner had WOTBOX installed. 
And........*click* nothing.... Ive checked the connectors over and over.... I can hear my alternator click as i try to start... but thats it... any ideas?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Rossabal said:


> Just tried this as previous owner had WOTBOX installed.
> And........*click* nothing.... Ive checked the connectors over and over.... I can hear my alternator click as i try to start... but thats it... any ideas?


 Check again. You must have miswired something.


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## jon-vw (May 25, 2011)

Once you remove the 3 locks on the plastic ECU connector, the larger pins (the ones with the rubber insulator) have a tendancy to shift around (even the ones you're not swapping). I noticed this and double checked the terminals were nice, flush and centered before hooking back up to the ecu. As far as the 14pin connector in the fenderwall, it only goes in and comes out one way, but still check that there are no bent or sunk in pins... 

I'm sure you already checked the battery and it's connections, but you never know..


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## topher003 (Feb 24, 2005)

I did my harness this past weekend, it turned out to not be that bad. I struggled a little with removing the pins from the connector next to the battery. I finally realized you have to push the pins out of the connector when also using the tool to compress the barbs. I originally had the tool in and was pulling on the wires, pretty hard, and they wouldn't budge. I made the safety pin tool which worked well and I used this: 
http://www.metalnerd.com/electricaltools.htm 

My car idles so much better and no more misfires. 

Great write-up swishersweets59!


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## harryo78 (Feb 26, 2012)

*problems*

I followed your post with the vw tech bulliten and got all the pins in correct order as per color on the ecs wiring harness. All of the pins went into the slots with alot of patience and cussing. It was running on 3 cylinders with a very cracked wiring harness. I started the car and it seems to be running worse with a almost vaccum leak and strong smell of fuel. Any help would be most thought after! Thank You!


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## swishersweets59 (Mar 21, 2009)

harryo78 said:


> I followed your post with the vw tech bulliten and got all the pins in correct order as per color on the ecs wiring harness. All of the pins went into the slots with alot of patience and cussing. It was running on 3 cylinders with a very cracked wiring harness. I started the car and it seems to be running worse with a almost vaccum leak and strong smell of fuel. Any help would be most thought after! Thank You!


Try checking all of your harness connections, both the ones you repinned as well as the connectors at the ignition coils. Also check the connection on your MAF sensor it could have come lose during the install. If that doesn't solve the problem I would check the engine bay thoroughly for connectors that may have come loose during the install, you never know. I would also try driving it around for a bit and see if things smooth out.


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## harryo78 (Feb 26, 2012)

*reply*



swishersweets59 said:


> Try checking all of your harness connections, both the ones you repinned as well as the connectors at the ignition coils. Also check the connection on your MAF sensor it could have come lose during the install. If that doesn't solve the problem I would check the engine bay thoroughly for connectors that may have come loose during the install, you never know. I would also try driving it around for a bit and see if things smooth out.


Thank You for your quick response, I will try out all of the things you listed!


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## turbo2205 (May 1, 2005)

just did this yesterday and it went MUCH better than anticipated. got it done just shy of 3hrs  
idle is much better (but still not perfect) and acceleration seems to be better. 

will be doing the 2.0t coil conversion when my plugs come in tuesday (had to special order them cuz 
apparently this ishthole of a town doesnt stock em anywhere :facepalm: tried o'rieleys, napa, and autozone..couldn't/can't believe it.


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## WolfsburgNate (Jun 6, 2006)

Just performed this today and it was not hard at all. Just like the guy above me, I was able to get this done with a buddy in about 3 hours. There is absolutely no reason to spend $60 on that schwaben set. It is basically just some glorified miniature screwdrivers. All I do when depinning these connectors is shove a really small jewler's screwdriver in each hole, and the pin comes right out. Spent about 5 minutes total to get all of the pins out using this method. to get the male pins out, it helped to use a needle nose pliers to pull them further in a little bit before you try to get them out. 

We found this stuff at the hardware store called friction tape and used that to re wrap the harness. It was pretty much the exact same tape that was used to wrap the harness initially (that fabric looking stuff). It is easiest to start re wrapping the wires starting at the ECU connector. 

I would recommend depinning the wires first and pulling them from the valve cover. We tried to get it out by pulling all of the coil pack harnesses through everything and just ended up cutting the whole mess in half. It was a bitch pulling all of those connectors through all of the small spaces. 

Of course, finish it off with the Audi coil harness heat shield! http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV--1.8T/Engine/Ignition/ES7432/ Got it from 1stvwparts for like $60. It seems like without it, the whole job is pointless because you're not preventing it from happening again. All in all, this is not hard at all to do. Just make sure to double check all of your wires when you re-pin the harnesses! 

Idle is perfect now btw! Thanks for making this DIY and giving me the courage to try this. :beer::beer:


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

WolfsburgNate said:


> It is basically just some glorified miniature screwdrivers.


 You must be thinking of a different Schwaben kit.


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## DjRyGuy (Jun 9, 2011)

Hello! Thanks for a great DIY. Had trouble with pins but finally got it. When all said and done I went to start the car and it didn't turn out so good. As soon as I turn the key I get a blinking and beeping brake light. The ASR and ABS lights are on as well. It also have a bad misfire. Cylinders 1&3. Any one had a clue or had this happen? It's a 01 awp


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## The Kilted Yaksman (Oct 31, 2000)

WolfsburgNate said:


> Of course, finish it off with the Audi coil harness heat shield! http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV--1.8T/Engine/Ignition/ES7432/ Got it from 1stvwparts for like $60. It seems like without it, the whole job is pointless because you're not preventing it from happening again. All in all, this is not hard at all to do. Just make sure to double check all of your wires when you re-pin the harnesses!
> 
> Idle is perfect now btw! Thanks for making this DIY and giving me the courage to try this. :beer::beer:


 You can save a bunch of money, vs. the overpriced Audi part, but buying some Thermo-Tec sleeving like this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/THE-14035/ . $26 for 3 feet.


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## TheAnswer#3 (Jun 17, 2012)

can anyone find me a link of a good ignition coil wiring harness


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## Henni (May 14, 2003)

To buy? 

Here:
You want the top one for the selection from germanautoparts.
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Golf/EngineElectrical/455/1


http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--1.8T/Engine/Electrical/Harness/ES7679/


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## Henni (May 14, 2003)

DreSin said:


> could the wiring harness being cracked cause the 4 fuel injectors being short to ground? i have cracks on my wiring harness and i have a new one to replace it but not the tools.
> I really dont feel like messing something up
> 
> 
> ...



W/ the failure to ground I have seen this be the fuel pump relay to cause this problem. A friend of mine had the same thing happen, I replaced the fuel pump relay and that fixed the problem. The harness can cause that also.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Henni said:


> Alright. This is what I did. (Sorry if this is a bad write up, I have had a long day)
> I got rid of the relay box next to the "waterfall".
> This:
> 
> ...


 Thanks for the write up. I'll be doing this today so I can free up some room for my catch can. 
For you sir:beer:


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## jmkyler3 (Jun 5, 2010)

I may be doing this today. Have the harness but gathering the correct tools and waiting to see what mother nature has in store....


Seeing my car is a 2000 model with the automatic, I am assuming the 2001 edit should do?


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## jmkyler3 (Jun 5, 2010)

jmkyler3 said:


> I may be doing this today. Have the harness but gathering the correct tools and waiting to see what mother nature has in store....
> 
> 
> Seeing my car is a 2000 model with the automatic, I am assuming the 2001 edit should do?


So I have all of the pins done and ready to swap in the new harness but one major question has me puzzled:

The new harness I bought from GAP: the 102 wire is purple with a black stripe
The old harness: the 102 wire is black with a blue stripe

Man, should I gamble here and just do it


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

jmkyler3 said:


> So I have all of the pins done and ready to swap in the new harness but one major question has me puzzled:
> 
> The new harness I bought from GAP: the 102 wire is purple with a black stripe
> The old harness: the 102 wire is black with a blue stripe
> ...


Do you have a Bentley? Wiring diagrams = mucho importante.


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## jmkyler3 (Jun 5, 2010)

toby lawrence said:


> Do you have a Bentley? Wiring diagrams = mucho importante.


Yes sir, got that.

The gamble paid off as it works like it did before  (While explaining it to a mechanic friend, the light went on in my head. The color of the wire on the replacement harness really didn't matter so much as long as it was going into the correct place on the ECU. I did cover my ass by tracing the wire in question from the ECU to the old harness.)

Over all this wasn't a hard project, yes the pins on the front connector were a PITA but doable. The paper clip worked fine on the larger pin while I used bent baby pins for the little pins.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

I spliced my 8 wires at instead of re-pinning the connectors.
Worked great!


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## Madein_USSR (Aug 17, 2008)

Does any one know where to get the actual pins for this pin connector, i a f*d mine when removing 
i am lookin for the male pins


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

Dealer only. I just threw mine in the trashthis morning


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## cjb88 (Aug 21, 2010)

So I've read through this whole thread, and I am just wondering: While so many people deem it necessary to replace the entire harness all the way to the ECU, is it really necessary since the overheating/melting/cracking issues doesn't go much past the head? Both INA and 034 make a short harness that allows you to add a connector just next to the head, maybe 6-8" into the harness. Since those harness are CRAZY expensive, what about just taking the OE replacement harness and soldering it in? I'm not concerned about either the resistance in the harness after soldering or the quality of work as I've done tons of electrical work. I just don't have the time to do this repair "the right way" especially since it doesn't seem totally essential. Thoughts?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

cjb88 said:


> So I've read through this whole thread, and I am just wondering: While so many people deem it necessary to replace the entire harness all the way to the ECU, is it really necessary since the overheating/melting/cracking issues doesn't go much past the head? Both INA and 034 make a short harness that allows you to add a connector just next to the head, maybe 6-8" into the harness. Since those harness are CRAZY expensive, what about just taking the OE replacement harness and soldering it in? I'm not concerned about either the resistance in the harness after soldering or the quality of work as I've done tons of electrical work. I just don't have the time to do this repair "the right way" especially since it doesn't seem totally essential. Thoughts?


I think that solution is fine assuming a few things...

1) You use both mechanical + solder in your technique. AKA, if the solder were to go soft due to some high temps, would your mechanical connection still hold it together? This is a typical requirement for soldering stuff in an under-hood application.

2) You use heat shrink on each wire that is designed for oil, chemical vapors and won't break down. Then double heat shrink the whole thing together

3) You ensure you don't have ANY bending at the location you're doing the soldering.

4) You ensure that corrosion cannot become a problem. AKA. Wire plugs or some other method.
...

This is a lot of IF's. These are very important wires and your aptitude is the key ingredient in it being made correctly.

Those aftermarket harnesses are expensive because they are using proper high temp, chemical resistant, high quality wire, heat shrink, abrasion sleeving, connectors, and environmental sealing. Plus they're being made by hand in low volume, so they are expensive almost custom solutions.

People use the OEM parallel solution because it is cheap, works great, and doesn't add any extra point of failures to the system.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

Solder is for electronic boards, chips, ect. I guarantee anyone $100 I can tear apart any soldered/heat shrink wires you put together. (and i'm no ufc fighter either haha)

The one and only proper way to join 2 wires is this:
http://www.shop3m.com/3m-scotchlok-seamless-butt-heat-shrink-connector.html

Auto parts stores sell them in packs of 25 (red ones for 18-22awg) of non 3m brand. they work just fine, but have a little less sheating on them so if you crimp with the incorrect tool it will break the seal. 

I did this on my car this weekend and its good to go. Spliced the wires in the black plastic shroud by the brake resivour, and the 3 wires at the VSS to body harness plug. 
The OEM updated harness uses the high quality teflon/nylon wire covering not the usual plastic/rubber/flexy cover usually used on wires. Its heavy duty, just like the INA kit.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Those are excellent connectors.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

groggory said:


> Those are excellent connectors.


:thumbup:


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

Soldering is fine, but it's just not as good of a connection. Crimping is more likely to yield you a good connection that will last. Soldering can be done improperly... both in terms of cold joints or adding too much solder that wicks into the conductor and then stiffens your wire up unnecessarily and you get premature stress failures.

.. or you could just do it the right way and run the new harness to your ECU connector and plug in the properly-crimped and brand-new terminals.


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## cjb88 (Aug 21, 2010)

toby lawrence said:


> .. or you could just do it the right way and run the new harness to your ECU connector and plug in the properly-crimped and brand-new terminals.



I understand that so many people consider "the right way" to do this repair is to replace the harness all the way back to the ECU, but how many people have actually found harness damage down the line in the harness? Yes, doing it another way besides the entire harness will take less time. Honestly, that's part of it's appeal because I simply don't have the time to potentially have my car down for a long time if I ran into any issues. I definitely agree with the "do it right the first time" mentality, but I'm not even seeing any physical damage on the harness right at the coils at this point so I find it pretty hard to believe that I would get any benefit from replacing it all the way to the ECU vs just past the VC as long as the connections are done properly. Whether it be the crimp connections like that or a short harness like the one from 034. Are the INA and 034 harnesses worth nearly $200? Anywhere else to get one from?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

cjb88 said:


> Are the INA and 034 harnesses worth nearly $200? Anywhere else to get one from?


They are the same harness. INA makes them.

Are they worth it. Hands down yes. I bet INA is down at least $75 in just materials making them. Then of course there is the labor ridden process of measuring, cutting, stripping, crimping, heat shrinking, and then QC'ing the whole assembly. It's a lot of work. Plus, it's low volume work. It's not like VW where they put in an order for 10,000 to be made at once.

If you wanted to do an inline harness yourself you could, but you need to be careful to use the correct heat shrink butt connectors, abrasion sleeving, and secondary heat shrink throughout if you want to do it right.

The OEM inlay is a 100% solution.

The INA inline is a 100% solution.

The DIY inline is as good as you are willing to make it and your know how on proper wiring. This is an important bunch of wiring...so if you're gonna do it, make sure you do it right.


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## cjb88 (Aug 21, 2010)

Does INA not have a website that actually shows everything that they sell? Only website that I found just has contact info and nothing else. And I think probably what I'll end up doing is buying the short harness from either INA or 034. I could definitely build one myself, but by the time I buy new connectors, pins, proper colored-wires, sheathing, etc, it will be better spent to just buy one.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

cjb88 said:


> Does INA not have a website that actually shows everything that they sell? Only website that I found just has contact info and nothing else. And I think probably what I'll end up doing is buying the short harness from either INA or 034. I could definitely build one myself, but by the time I buy new connectors, pins, proper colored-wires, sheathing, etc, it will be better spent to just buy one.


Check out INA's facebook for all their stuff.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

IMHO...

Don't waste money on the INA harness.
You can buy 3 VW harness' (they use the same high temp teflon coated wires) for the price of one INA harness kit. plus its basically plug/play compared to the ina where you have to "build" the second half of the harness.
And from all the harness' I have seen or fixed they are oil soaked to hell up to the driver side frame rail portion of wires. 
Yes the wires right on the side of the valve cover are exposed to lots of heat as well, and oil, and they get brittle. Why not do one vw kit, (for 78.00) and be done forever. Plus then you dont have an ugly boxy connector on the side of the valve cover. :thumbup:


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## cjb88 (Aug 21, 2010)

Slimjimmn said:


> And from all the harness' I have seen or fixed they are oil soaked to hell up to the driver side frame rail portion of wires.


How in the hell do the ignition wires soak up oil? I've seen pics of people's harnesses all crack and burned and stuff and mine doesn't look anything like that... at least all the parts that I can see. I'm more thinking of this along the lines of fixing/replacing it before it gets that bad. And my reason for not wanting to do the full harness all the way to the ECU is simply that #1- it doesn't seem like I have much damage to the harness at this point. #2- I don't have a lot of down time and I DEFINITELY cannot have the car down for any period of time.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

oil leaks from cam chain tensioner and or valve covers.

My harness was wet with oil all the way to right above the starter.

I spliced in the new harness in the black plastic shroud area next to the brake resivour/relay bracket. 

The new updated vw harness wires are covered by teflon coating which will not soak up chemicals and is very strong resistance to heat.


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

The PO of my car (and/or the shop he used) loved butt splices but didn't know how or where to use them. I found them all over in various states of disrepair and disintegration. Many were intermittent, inappropriately small, poorly crimped, corroded, high in resistance, etc. I got rid of all that I could find, usually replacing them with a Western Union splice










which I sometimes added a little solder to for stability and to preserve the connection. My favored wrap for the splice is Scotch 23 splicing tape, especially in locations that are exposed to elements, because it can seal to itself extremely well.


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## WolfsburgNate (Jun 6, 2006)

I have no idea why anyone would even want to splice in the new harness. It seems like so much more work to find every single wire, cut them, make sure its the right length, strip them, crimp them, solder them and you still run into the chance for human error. Especially if you removed the old harness all the way back to the wireway by the brake resevoir?:screwy:. Why not just go the extra 3 inches and just do it correctly and save a ****load of time and energy. You guys are crazy.


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

WolfsburgNate said:


> I have no idea why anyone would even want to splice in the new harness. It seems like so much more work to find every single wire, cut them, make sure its the right length, strip them, crimp them, solder them and you still run into the chance for human error. Especially if you removed the old harness all the way back to the wireway by the brake resevoir?:screwy:. Why not just go the extra 3 inches and just do it correctly and save a ****load of time and energy. You guys are crazy.


:thumbup: Unless you don't have suitable tools for popping the pins out.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

BassNotes said:


> :thumbup: Unless you don't have suitable tools for popping the pins out.


Which are $90.


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## cjb88 (Aug 21, 2010)

Any cheaper place for these tools? Maybe someone willing to rent them when I get to the point when I do this? Yes, I guess this means I will probably end up doing the full harness. My cam tensioner seals are leaking pretty bad. :-(


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

Slimjimmn said:


> Which are $90.


Unless you get them for less. I think my set cost about $40.


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## cjb88 (Aug 21, 2010)

BassNotes said:


> Unless you get them for less. I think my set cost about $40.


Where did you get yours from?


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

People get these kits but Ihave seen them in person and they are so tiny its hard to hold to remove the pins from the terminals of the connector in some instances.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Audi-Con..._Automotive_Tools&hash=item3a79b4e4f5&vxp=mtr


This is another kit made by schwaben in germany. Works great, but they are kinda flimsy imo.
http://store.blackforestindustries.com/sc12piuntere.html

I have this one:
http://vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?itemid=33530028
and this one:
http://vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?itemid=33370028
and this one:
http://vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?itemid=33340028

all oem vw tools. It covers most all the usual terminals in vw cars.


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

cjb88 said:


> Where did you get yours from?


It's a Schwaben kit from ECS, several years ago. I think they had it featured on sale, so I jumped at the opportunity.


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

subscribed


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## WolfsburgNate (Jun 6, 2006)

Slimjimmn said:


> Which are $90.


http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-03...49817568&sr=8-1&keywords=jewelers+screwdriver

Not quite $90. I spent about 45 seconds total depinning wires while replacing this harness just using the smallest flat head screwdriver I could find. Just shove the ****er in the slot as far as it will go on both sides, and the pin comes out every time. Never broke anything doing it this way either. People on here do not know how to improvise.

Anyone trying to do this don't listen to the people that say you need to spend all of your money on some stupid "tool set" for depinning. I don't even know where to begin explaining how unnecessary it is.


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

i can tell you about how i bought the kit and it worked just as freakin awesome as some safety pins...


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

WolfsburgNate said:


> I spent about 45 seconds total depinning wires while replacing this harness just using the smallest flat head screwdriver I could find. Just shove the ****er in the slot as far as it will go on both sides, and the pin comes out every time.


These kinds of cars are the cars I have to fix all day..:beer:


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

I'm glad $40 isn't all my money.


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## Erickxcr (Oct 31, 2012)

Hey guys, I got an 04 jetta gls 1.8t auto with tiptronic.
Bought it about 2 months ago from a dealer and ran really awesome ! 
But have been getting really frustrating with nagging problems first both fans and now the coil harness.
Today I got out of work and on my way home it started to misfire.
When I got home I started looking over the coil packs and when I pulled the plug from the coil that's closest to the belt side it completely fell apart in my hand leaving the 4 pins exposed and burning my finger with a spark ! 
And leaving me to use my moms car :facepalm:

Will the esc harness work on my car, also do I have to remove pins like in the first page ? :banghead:


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

Erickxcr said:


> Hey guys, I got an 04 jetta gls 1.8t auto with tiptronic.
> Bought it about 2 months ago from a dealer and ran really awesome !
> But have been getting really frustrating with nagging problems first both fans and now the coil harness.
> Today I got out of work and on my way home it started to misfire.
> ...


yes^2


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

I didn't remove my pins. I crimp connected them and working fine since day one.


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

just to clarify, for the manual, you use all the pins/connectors on the new harness correct?


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## WolfsburgNate (Jun 6, 2006)

theswoleguy said:


> just to clarify, for the manual, you use all the pins/connectors on the new harness correct?


Yup, and if you copy the part number from ecs, its a lot cheaper from 1stvwparts.com:thumbup:

Edit: Nevermind, but it was a year ago:laugh:


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

theswoleguy said:


> just to clarify, for the manual, you use all the pins/connectors on the new harness correct?


Yes. All the wires on the harness must be replaced


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## Erickxcr (Oct 31, 2012)

Hi again,, im about to do this & was talking to a VW Tech. And he told me since 2 pins on the plug that connect to the coil pack touched and shorted theres the possibility my ecu is fried ?
Any possibility this might be true ?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Havent heard that re those wires

Definetly heard that on the o2 harness


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## WolfsburgNate (Jun 6, 2006)

Erickxcr said:


> Hi again,, im about to do this & was talking to a VW Tech. And he told me since 2 pins on the plug that connect to the coil pack touched and shorted theres the possibility my ecu is fried ?
> Any possibility this might be true ?


I'd try changing it anyways. Even if you end up having to replace the ECU, if the wires are corroded enough to short on each other like that you should definitely replace the harness.


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## Erickxcr (Oct 31, 2012)

WolfsburgNate said:


> I'd try changing it anyways. Even if you end up having to replace the ECU, if the wires are corroded enough to short on each other like that you should definitely replace the harness.


Yeah, ima do the harness swap anyways and work from there :banghead:


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## Erickxcr (Oct 31, 2012)

Update, replaced ecu, harness & coil packs :banghead: 
At least I'm using my own car now for work :snowcool:


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## dwmaurer86 (Jul 16, 2012)

*14 pin connector*

Does anyone know the numbers for the 5 pins that go into the 14 pin connector? I lost a tag on one of mine. I have the 94,95,102 and 121 but I don't know the other one. Thanks


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

dwmaurer86 said:


> Does anyone know the numbers for the 5 pins that go into the 14 pin connector? I lost a tag on one of mine. I have the 94,95,102 and 121 but I don't know the other one. Thanks


Match color wires?


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## dwmaurer86 (Jul 16, 2012)

They're not the same color as the factory. Thank though


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

dwmaurer86 said:


> They're not the same color as the factory. Thank though


Well I guess you didn't get a factor replacement harness? I just did my harness two weekends ago and every single wire matched up perfect color wise.


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## dwmaurer86 (Jul 16, 2012)

I'll have to check it out to be certain but this one is from ECS


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

dwmaurer86 said:


> I'll have to check it out to be certain but this one is from ECS


I got mine from ecs also but it came in a factory vw/audi box. I think ecs may sell 2 versions.


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## blue02gls (Sep 20, 2010)

Awesome DIY! Thanks for taking the time to do it. It was very helpful in replacing mine tonight.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

any idea about using one of these harnesses sold by ecs on a audi tt 225 with the amu engine that was converted to an awp wideband ecu????


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

Does it have an awp engine harness in the car?


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## wildcar (Dec 5, 2003)

does this connector come apart any more than in this pic? the secondary locks are in the little opening on the top and bottom of this pic correct? the purple part will move out some but not all the way, i have everything else done but cant get these wires out. im ready to cut and solder the wires at this point.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

Slimjimmn said:


> Does it have an awp engine harness in the car?


nope...i did the wiring "adjustment" by adding a few wires and changing the pinout.


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

speed51133! said:


> any idea about using one of these harnesses sold by ecs on a audi tt 225 with the amu engine that was converted to an awp wideband ecu????


itll work, i did this. iirc correctly the wideband only effects the larger connector, coil packs are in the smaller connector,


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## cwyamz (Aug 1, 2012)

wildcar said:


> does this connector come apart any more than in this pic? the secondary locks are in the little opening on the top and bottom of this pic correct? the purple part will move out some but not all the way, i have everything else done but cant get these wires out. im ready to cut and solder the wires at this point.


Definitely the hardest connector to work on for this job. In your pic it's still locked. The pruple part needs to slide to the right to unlock..
I would highly recommend the Schwaben tools for this part of the job. Nearly impossible with out them. The pin release holes are amazingly small. 
If you are forced to cut, opinion in other threads is to use a butt crimp.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

I just 3m heat shrink butt connect wires for this job. No need to repin any connectors.


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## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

Just completed this DIY over the weekend. What a time consuming bi+ch. Glad it's over! :thumbup:


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## Doctor Meat Does Housecalls (Aug 27, 2010)

Hey so my DUMBASS just went ahead and removed all the pins on accident. 


Does anyone have a color coated numbered diagram? :facepalm:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Doctor Meat Does Housecalls said:


> Hey so my DUMBASS just went ahead and removed all the pins on accident.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a color coated numbered diagram? :facepalm:


Go pull out the bentley. They'll have a pinout diagram in there with wire color codes and everything.


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## Doctor Meat Does Housecalls (Aug 27, 2010)

groggory said:


> Go pull out the bentley. They'll have a pinout diagram in there with wire color codes and everything.


I have a bentley downloaded on my computer. Adobe keeps freezing. Any possible hint of an idea to what page it's on?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Doctor Meat Does Housecalls said:


> I have a bentley downloaded on my computer. Adobe keeps freezing. Any possible hint of an idea to what page it's on?


In the electrical section somewhere


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## Doctor Meat Does Housecalls (Aug 27, 2010)

groggory said:


> In the electrical section somewhere


balls


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## WolfsburgNate (Jun 6, 2006)

Since I'm extremely bored at work and was already looking at electrical diagrams in the bentley, its on page 97-630, the coilpacks at least. Probably real close to there.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

WolfsburgNate said:


> Since I'm extremely bored at work and was already looking at electrical diagrams in the bentley, its on page 97-630, the coilpacks at least. Probably real close to there.


Cool. Go to that page, then follow the coil pack trigger wires through other pages til you get to that connector. Sounds like a plan.


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## Doctor Meat Does Housecalls (Aug 27, 2010)

groggory said:


> Cool. Go to that page, then follow the coil pack trigger wires through other pages til you get to that connector. Sounds like a plan.


97-631 mentions that connector. That's all I see. 

Can anyone iterate from there?


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## Doctor Meat Does Housecalls (Aug 27, 2010)

http://www.funksoulkitty.org/shockypage/june/wiring/junewiring.html


Half way down. Looks to be the connection. Can anyone confirm?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Doctor Meat Does Housecalls said:


> http://www.funksoulkitty.org/shockypage/june/wiring/junewiring.html
> 
> 
> Half way down. Looks to be the connection. Can anyone confirm?


I don't remember well enough quite honestly


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## Doctor Meat Does Housecalls (Aug 27, 2010)

groggory said:


> I don't remember well enough quite honestly


We're golden. 

Thanks for the help gentlemen. :beer:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Doctor Meat Does Housecalls said:


> We're golden.
> 
> Thanks for the help gentlemen. :beer:


Well since you did the leg work, please share your findings so the next poor sap can have an easier time :beer:


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## Doctor Meat Does Housecalls (Aug 27, 2010)

groggory said:


> Well since you did the leg work, please share your findings so the next poor sap can have an easier time :beer:


Used the Bentley to find the code number (and description) of the 14 pin harness located in the engine bay near the battery. 

t14a is the number for those looking. 

I then googled "MKIV Jetta t14a Pinout color code" to find this below.

http://www.funksoulkitty.org/shockypage/june/wiring/junewiring.html

Half way down there are a few pictures of close ups for the t14a harness pins with wires still in tact. 

The other side of the t14a harness can be found in another thread on vortex. (I forget the link at the moment.)


I then asked a friend to double check his harness and it does in fact check out.

I'm not certain what the pins are wired to, the bentley can handle that, but the color code is as follows:

Pin # Color: 
1 Green/Blue Stripe
2 Grey/Black Stripe
3 White/Black Stripe
4 Purple
5 Red/Purple Stripe
6 Yellow/Black Stripe
7 Brown
8 N/A
9 Orange/Tan (I've seen it different but it's always a shade of 
Orange/Beige)
10 N/A
11 N/A
12 N/A
13 N/A
14 N/A


All I remember is that pin 7 is the ground if that helps anyone out. 

Hope that helps guys!


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## deathmetalscottie (Jun 4, 2007)

So I followed the tutorial but I ran into a difference between this and my 180q. I found a misc. brown wire leading to the coil pack ground wire on the valve cover (probably about a 22g wire) going down to the transmission. I ended up clipping it ( I know retarded) putting everything back in. Now I my oil sensor light is on so I am thinking this is probably the reason why. How are the oil sensor lights connected to the harness on 1.8T in Golfs and Jetta's? Possible a difference in wiring between the AWP and other 1.8T, i don't know. Any advice here would be great. Oil preasure and oil level seem fine here and was not an issue beofre the install.


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## deathmetalscottie (Jun 4, 2007)

Nevermind I figured it out. It is just the oil level sensor and the brown wire is the ground. Replaced fuse and connectedground, all is well.


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## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

*AWD Engine Code*

So I know this is a stupid question but does this also work for the AWD engine code? I called up ECSTuning and he seemed to SOUND knowledgeable but I rather have someone with hands on experience chime in or otherwise any response works too. 

On ECS http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2089861/ it says only AWW/AWP, yet in their applications it says all MKIV 1.8Ts (which I brought up with the ECSTuning rep and he said i may have to cut and splice things)...ick?

However when I was looking through these pages I noticed that someone posted the harness on Germanautoparts http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Golf/EngineElectrical/455/1 and these look identical from what I can see. Their site says AWW/AWP/AWD. 

Who has the minor oversight and is wrong or who excluded my damn oddball engine code?



Any response please would be great! I already ordered the one from ECSTuning with a return in mind if I get it apart and it looks way wrong. (already asked them if I could return and he said yes....had to ask since its electronic and all).

I'm just going to get TWO of those napa tools also and return those things when done haha. 




Also I SWORE a long time ago there was this website hosted by like anglefire or something that had random things to do to your 1.8t and one was MAKING your own coil pack harness from scratch and buying the pins to put them together for way cheaper....any have that site please? It also was wrapped really well from heat.


For those who skip reading--

1. Will this work for AWD engine code the SAME way?
2. Anyone have the website to make the harness from scratch, I lost it 


V/r


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## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

Dang he only had MAF fixes, but has some good things at the bottom of the page and pictures of the pins inside for ref. 

http://writen4u.hubpages.com/hub/How-to-Replace-Broken-Wire-Harness-ClipsConnectors-AudiVW-DIY

Still, does the ECSTuning Wire Harness work for AWD engine code also. Thanks again.


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## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

:beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:

Now that I have your attention. THIS WORKS FOR AWD engine code. I ran into the other problem that someone else did on here where I had a blue/black wire on engine harness that I replaced with ECSTuning's harness where it was purple/black, I think it was pin 102. 

Another fooking annoying thing is if you think its unlocked and its not coming out, think again. I struggled for hours because somehow when I opened mine it was unlocked already (dont ask me) and then I moved it to the side and locked it and could never get anything to work. :banghead: MOVE IT AWAY FROM THE DIRECTION THE ARROW IS POINTING TO UNLOCK IT!:banghead:

Other than that, I used 3m Super 33+ until i get other tape to rewrap it more if need be. I had to give my back a break ffs, unwrapping and wrapping was a pita and so was that stupid connector near the battery. Once I derped and figured out it was locked it was simple with paperclips and safety pins.



1. ECSTuning Works for *AWD *engine code
2. Unlock is the direction *OPPOSITE *of the direction the arrow is pointing
3. *Unwrapping *and *wrapping *was also a huge pita for me, esp near the motor (*backbreaker*). I suggest starting at the ECU so when you get near the motor the tape roll is smaller to make wrapping easier.
4. Pin 102 (or was it 103) was blue/black and when traced back was right...replaced with purple/black


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## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

now to do this to prolong this pita thing in the future hopefully. 165k miles and still going *knocks on wood*

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...Coil-Pack-Replacement-Repair-and-Heat-Shields


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## triplehelix (Sep 15, 2013)

I'm about to replace my coil pack harness and hopefully solve some serious chugging and misfire codes. My car is:

2000 Passat, 1.8t, manual 5-speed, ATW engine code.

I grabbed this harness:

http://www.uspmotorsports.com/Coil-Pack-Wiring-Harness-Replacement.html

How does my install differ from the original post? Am I using the speed sensor connector?

Any and all information, assistance, etc is super appreciated.


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## MEDEL514 (Jan 12, 2002)

I just did this on my car, not too bad of a job. I got the harness from the German Audi dealership, €36 for the OEM harness, and the wires were even labeled with the number positions! That made the re pinning go faster and less confusing. 

The overall job wasn't hard, just a little time consuming during removal because I didn't know where all the wires behind the motor went. I also didn't unravel the entire harness bundle, instead, I cut the old coil pack harness where it come out of the main harness and just routed the new coil pack harness on top of the main harness. Much easier, and nobody will even know!

It didn't solve my particular misfire problem, so back to the drawing board..... :banghead:


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## KrazyKlownz (Jan 16, 2014)

*newbie here *

Would this wire harness installation also apply to a 2002 vw golf gti 1.8t? If not, is there a video i can refer too?


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## treenchfoot (Jan 20, 2014)

I have to do the same to my 2001 bora 1.8T 5 speed. mine is misfiring all the time. it was putting out codes for misfire on #1 2 4 cyl and a fuel code.I've changed all plugs (E3) #4 coil, fuel pump, fuel pump relay and still running like a bag of butt.


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## MEDEL514 (Jan 12, 2002)

treenchfoot said:


> I have to do the same to my 2001 bora 1.8T 5 speed. mine is misfiring all the time. it was putting out codes for misfire on #1 2 4 cyl and a fuel code.I've changed all plugs (E3) #4 coil, fuel pump, fuel pump relay and still running like a bag of butt.


Sounds like me, are you losing coolant? I was loosing coolant very slowly, and had some smoke coming out of the exhaust. We did a compression test and it was normal. I eventually took the head off and found hairline cracks in the head which was causing coolant to seep into the cylinder. awsome....


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## treenchfoot (Jan 20, 2014)

i'v looked and it appers to have no coolant leaking out on ground.i have never added any coolant and have put on 15 000km since bought still in the same spot. but i'll keep looking around.thanx for the heads up since my first post the POS wont start 1st day she chugged a time or two no start can smell fuel. checked plugs for fuel and had lots. let dry out for the day. 2nd day nothing at all just turning over with no sound of fireing. I have a engine code AWW coil pack replacement harness ordered today from ECS tuning because my wires are cracking and reading the whole thread it would do a world of good . ECU I have to pick up (got the call today) after that I only have the 3 coils to go I gess :banghead: 

Any help or inside info would help me and for now my no starting POS get down the road would b sweet:thumbup:
2001 bora 1.8T 5 speed
Engine code AWW


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## treenchfoot (Jan 20, 2014)

*SAVE YOUR MONEY....bobby pins are the way to go....NO B.S.*

SAVE YOUR MONEY>>>>> bobby pins are the best way to get the connectors apart. bend 2 pins to 90, bit the plastic ends off and your good to go. For the small connecters you will need 2 more bobby pins bend to 90 bite ends off and u will have to grind about 1/4 of its width off one side up about 1/2" and debur lightly on the two sides and your off. The small flat head eyeglass screwdriver from the dollar store is a must. just look at the new harness to see how they work and where the locks are in the connecter. u will feel it when your in. if not I found to hold the connector with thumb and middle finger and pushed the index finger in-between the bobby pins and pull with the left hand and they should come out. The black and white connectors just look at the pic above, just right of the arrow is some long slots where the locks are.( it will look like this \ ) just push the flat head in lightly on the top side and turn clockwise and pull the wire lightly out.( I had to use two hands and a lap to get it out) use the flat head from the top of the connector to help Gide the new wires back home. :laugh: Just take your time and look at things... And yes you will need the :beer: and some contortion skills lmfao


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## treenchfoot (Jan 20, 2014)

*don't use E 3 spark plugs in 1.8T*

my miss firing was because of bad wires and the E3 plugs. traced, pulled and spliced the wires together at the top of the waterfall and put NGK's back in and it's a go :laugh: no light's started every time. got the new harness in the other day and putting it in is easy with :beer: 10mm, 13mm, long extinction, ratchet, flat head screwdriver, eyeglass flat head, Allen key and maybe a pair of needle nose pliers. NOW for the big special tool is.... BOBBY PINS X 4
Bend two to 90 bite the plastic ends off and your dune. (big connectors)
Bend two to 90 bite the plastic ends off and grind 1/4 of the width off about 1/2" up. debur the sides and test fit (small connectors):thumbup:
P.S great info swishersweets keep up the good work:beer:


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## 68redbug2000jetta (Sep 14, 2007)

I'm about to have the joys of doing my coil harness.ordered the schwaben kit from sears (less than ecs wanted).anyways I have a 02 awp motor with tiptronic trans.i removed the speed sensor harness but which wires do i need to also remove?wire colors are big black with purple stripe,small purple with black stripe (labeled 102),black with yellow stripe (labeled 95)black with beige stripe (103), and black with gray?(94).thanks


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## Eric16v (Feb 17, 1999)

I just did this last night. What took the longest for me was cutting the old wire wrap off. Got the harness from 1stvwparts.com cause with shipping it was cheaper that ecs with shipping and a 2 day ups ground shipment for me. The harness I got had the wire groups wrapped together and if I had been thinking when I was wrapping the harness back up last night, I would have left that part out of the wrap.


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## mikeb52 (Aug 16, 2008)

Hey, I did this swap while I had the engine out for swapping into another car.
I too opted for butt splices as I didn't see this thread or figure out the pin removals.
Now the engine is back in and will turn over, but not start.
When I connect 102, (purple/black) I cannot connect to my ecu via obd, but when it's disconnected I can.
With that wire disconnected I get the code: 
17072 - ECM Power Relay Load Circuit: (J271): Open
P0688 - 35-00 - -
And with it connected, I can't connect via vagcom or nefmoto. Won't start in either mode, 102 connected or not.
I will go back over my install tonight, focusing on t14 and the ecu, but it's bumming me out after 2 months of swapping. I loath the idea of replacing this harness, again, but will wait till I get some feedback on here, and see what I see with my meter.
I have the Bentley and will go to pg 97-630+ to hopefully figure out my electrical paths and do continuity checks in position with battery positive pulled tonight.
Any ideas from you that have been before, much appreciated.
Cheers.
Mike B


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## mikeb52 (Aug 16, 2008)

My issue was resolved by doing resistance testing at my grounds. The one in the rain tray near the ecu had a high impedance, I cleaned the surfaces and my problem was resolved, started right up and vagcom comm is fine.
Just an FYI that if you think you did everything right and you have issues, check the basics..
Cheers.


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## garytightpants (Jun 14, 2010)

i just performed this repair on a 2000 AWD Automatic(non-tip) using the harness ecs sells. it is cranking, but no start. i double checked, and every pin is in the and no pins are loose or broke. my VAG scanner still connects and clears codes. any one have any ideas? it is greatly appreciated


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## garytightpants (Jun 14, 2010)

Anyone? 
I re checked everything and nothing is standing out to me. I did notice that the speed sensor is that of a manual, even though the car is a 4-speed auto. I cleaned the ground in the rain tray, and checked any other ground I could find and they are all ok looking. My multimeter and test light are at work, so I can't test the right way til tomorrow afternoon and the car needs to be drivable tomorrow morning. 

I have been trying to do a throttle-body alignment, but I keep getting an error message. I think this might be due to the temp. According to Ross-tech the coolant temp needs to be 5c. The coolant temp is 1c cuz it's freezing here in NH


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

**EDIT: 
ECU is fried. got it "sorted" but now ecu does not send pulse to cyl. 4 :banghead:


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## cinorc (Mar 11, 2015)

About to splice. Wish me luck.


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## jbtyson (Jul 22, 2015)

Used this DIY to replace the harness on a friend's 02 wagon today. Job was a pain to say the least, but would have been far worse without the writeup. Thanks for the contribution!


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## gsprobe (Jan 29, 2006)

I bought the full wire harness kit about 1 year ago. I just don't have the time nor energy to do all this work. I will see if I can get the dealer to do it all for less than $300 - that seems fair to me. My symptoms are random misfires and a little lost power. 

Before I take it in I will replace the crank and camshaft position sensors again- they were done around 60K and now I got about 110K. Hoping for good results.


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## gsprobe (Jan 29, 2006)

Dealer quoted me just 2 hours to install the entire harness kit. ~$200 total labor, and I already purchased the harness. I will GLADLY pay that for someone else to do all the dirty work.


I wish I had money as a kid-- sure makes it easy to do annoying and dirty car repairs.


Also they quoted me just $45 labor to do the crank position sensor- which is a PITA too.


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## onavianva (Oct 31, 2010)

Thanks for posting. This helped me and guided me while replacing mine.
http://65.media.tumblr.com/60d42a1b109f3c8dfb0642cbeb776f63/tumblr_obpuhe3D3q1se7iwxo7_1280.jpg


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## onepoynteight (Feb 1, 2016)

*PDF*

In case the pictures didn't load for anyone else (like me!), I made a PDF of the pictures I salvaged from swishersweets59's photobucket:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BymGuBu9hx-5ejN2QmpZOE9zWGs/view

EDIT: for the ECU removal, I am looking here: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=441304


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