# ABF swap into MK2 16V



## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

If I get a complete ABF swap minus the wiring from the ECU to the fuse box can this be done? It will be going into a 92 16V gti. Would wires need to be spliced or is there an alternative? 

Thanks


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

The best alternative is MegaSquirt.


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

ps2375 said:


> The best alternative is MegaSquirt.


 No clue about megasquirt, I know what it is just never messed with it. Who would be a good person to talk to and a good place to purchase? 

Thanks


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Check in the carb/sem/ITB forum. We have many people in there that can build it. I've built a couple, not that hard. I've installed a couple and helped with a few more. Do some reading and then a little more. It is well worth it. 

I use diyautotune.com for my kits and harnesses, but there are others on the Vortex that can also supply what you need.


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

ps2375 said:


> Check in the carb/sem/ITB forum. We have many people in there that can build it. I've built a couple, not that hard. I've installed a couple and helped with a few more. Do some reading and then a little more. It is well worth it.


 Right on, will start there. Thanks 

Any other tips would be appreciated from all.


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

The stock management can be wired in, you technically only need the engine harness and ECU to make it work. 

Yes there will be splicing involved, but not that much if done correctly and your original fusebox/relay panel is still functional. You'll spend more time tracing and studying the wiring diagrams than actually splicing wires. (basically boils down to a few signal wires and power to the ECU) 

How you decide to run gauges and monitor the engine after that is where wiring can get a bit trickier... but you'd need to deal with this even if you went standalone (megasquirt, etc) anyway. 

It can be a hell of a lot cheaper than spending $600-1000 on megasquirt. But if you don't have the time or patience for wiring, or mess something up, the time and effort investment in fixing it or getting it right can quickly outweigh the benefits of doing it yourself. 

The other side of it is that with megasquirt you will have the added cost of tuning the car or getting a map from someone. There will also still be some wiring to do with megasquirt, but it will be simpler since everything is open and labeled. 

My recommendation would be to go standalone if you can afford it. But if you want to take the time to really learn wiring, especially on VAG machines, and aren't looking for major performance upgrades after the swap, tackle this yourself.


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## eurostiehl (Mar 1, 2005)

if you need a 16v let me know. my buddy is selling his


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

rstolz said:


> The stock management can be wired in, you technically only need the engine harness and ECU to make it work.
> 
> Yes there will be splicing involved, but not that much if done correctly and your original fusebox/relay panel is still functional. You'll spend more time tracing and studying the wiring diagrams than actually splicing wires. (basically boils down to a few signal wires and power to the ECU)
> 
> ...


 I appreciate all the info, I think the megasquirt would be more than I need. Just going to track down a harness, schematic and get to splicing.


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

eurostiehl said:


> if you need a 16v let me know. my buddy is selling his


 Dont need a 16V


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## zaskar (Jan 17, 2000)

Can I ask WHY you want to go from a 2.0 16 mk2 to a 2.0 16v mk3 engine... sounds like expensive for almost nothing. 

Anyway if you ever do that, there's almost no splicing required if you install de mk3 injection, it should not be any different than installing a aba 2.0 8v or vr6... same wire to play with (alarm, clutch sensor) and same problems also (tach signal analog vs digital) 

There's a cool factor doing this swap, but I would not recommend it. gains vs money importing an engine... iisshhh... you loose. 

:facepalm:


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

zaskar said:


> Can I ask WHY you want to go from a 2.0 16 mk2 to a 2.0 16v mk3 engine... sounds like expensive for almost nothing.
> 
> Anyway if you ever do that, there's almost no splicing required if you install de mk3 injection, it should not be any different than installing a aba 2.0 8v or vr6... same wire to play with (alarm, clutch sensor) and same problems also (tach signal analog vs digital)
> 
> ...


 Don't think I was asking if I should do it or what anyone's opinions where on the cost of it. Anyway, why because I want to. I don't want a VR like everyone else, I'm not a sheep and I could care less about having the fastest built mk2. I'm an older guy that doesn't care if its fast and if I want to drive a fast car I will grab another one out of the garage. 
Motor, tranny, complete harness and ECU will be here Saturday, including all needed to convert to hydraulic clutch. Should be a fun swap in the end. I've put a 350 in a miata and other swaps so I'm not completely new to this stuff, just was nervous about an import motor and it working in a US car. 
Also the ABF motor is a much better engine than the mk2 2.0, hands down. Plus cleaner engine bay and euro motor under the hood. Think this is more of a win than a loss. Thanks for your opinion even though it wasn't asked, it really helped out this thread. :thumbup:


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

We went with ms on a shop build when it was a ton cheaper then getting a chip and immo cracked on the later abf ecu.


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

need_a_VR6 said:


> We went with ms on a shop build when it was a ton cheaper then getting a chip and immo cracked on the later abf ecu.


 I'm not really worried about the cost as I am the ease of use for me. I found out that I'm getting a early ABF ECU so no worries luckily about the immobilizer. I contacted maxrpm in Germany and they can burn me a custom chip for $400. Thanks for your tip. I'm expecting everything to go ok at this point. 
I'm sure I'm not the only one that has done this exact swap, hopefully someone has that can give some good tips.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

There is a lot less to worry about with the earlier ecu for sure. The wiring looked no harder then any CE2 swap. We were putting it in a CE1 Mk2 so that advantage wasn't there for us either. Add to that the fact that I can get a MS running rather quickly, it sealed the deal.

Good luck and keep us posted on the swap.


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

need_a_VR6 said:


> There is a lot less to worry about with the earlier ecu for sure. The wiring looked no harder then any CE2 swap. We were putting it in a CE1 Mk2 so that advantage wasn't there for us either. Add to that the fact that I can get a MS running rather quickly, it sealed the deal.
> 
> Good luck and keep us posted on the swap.


Awesome, will do, thanks.


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

Well the swap is here. But some parts will need to be replaced, not sure where to source from. Cap, rotor, coil, hall sensor, coil wire and I'm sure there will be more. Looks like its gonna be fun :banghead:

Its going to be a little while before I start. Need to order parts and get my sons baja finished up. Probably a few weeks.


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

Also what throttle cable is needed?


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## heyfu (Mar 27, 2006)

VR6170K said:


> Also what throttle cable is needed?


oem mk2 throttle cable will work


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

heyfu said:


> oem mk2 throttle cable will work


Thanks. Looks a little too long but I will give it a shot.


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## Old Windy (Apr 1, 2009)

I have actually seen the ABF running on K9 and 9A running on the old system. All you need to swap is the exhaust and intake of the ABF with a old system. There is a guy on Ebay Uk that sells a DIY guide of what is needed to make this swap any wich way you want.
If I find the link Ill just post it here.


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## mozcar78 (Nov 30, 2003)

These are you OEM options. Of course intake and fueling may vary a bit 

Digi 1 
Digi 2 
CE2 OBD1

:beer:


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

I'm going to stick with the ABF management. Still unsure if I will be leaving in the O2O or going to do the O2A conversion ( I have all the parts needed ) just not sure if its worth the extra time and work. I like the gearing of the O2O.

Anyone have an idea of what A/C lines will swap over, I know my current lines won't work on the ABF.


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## CalYPsoGLi12 (Jul 18, 2003)

Ok I will make this very simple.... run digifant 3 on a non-imbolizer early ecu. As for trans I used the stock CDA O2A and I like it.:beer: pics of car receiving swap?


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

CalYPsoGLi12 said:


> Ok I will make this very simple.... run digifant 3 on a non-imbolizer early ecu. As for trans I used the stock CDA O2A and I like it.:beer: pics of car receiving swap?


Digi3 for sure, and the ECU is non immobilized. Did you do a ABF swap?


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## Old Windy (Apr 1, 2009)

If you manage to acquire an early Digi 3 non inmobilizer then use that. As for the A/C, I see if your MK2 will fit on the ABF. If not I believe it is easier in the long run (parts availability) to make a 4 cylinder MK4 A/C compresor conversion and have a shop build / adapt the compressor to your MK2 chasis. A friend of mine if running like this on his GLI (wich I had pictures of it).

Here is the guide from ebay UK:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400478459557


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

Old Windy said:


> If you manage to acquire an early Digi 3 non inmobilizer then use that. As for the A/C, I see if your MK2 will fit on the ABF. If not I believe it is easier in the long run (parts availability) to make a 4 cylinder MK4 A/C compresor conversion and have a shop build / adapt the compressor to your MK2 chasis. A friend of mine if running like this on his GLI (wich I had pictures of it).


I'm going to try and stick with the ABF mk3 a/c and get some custom lines made. May look into to some corrado lines?


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## vwnut18t (Jun 5, 2004)

I will lend any help I can. If you look in the eBay.uk you will find cap rotor stuff. That's where I found my set up. Take a pic of the coil plug and text it to me(you should still have my number). I have a few theories about the coil. I will begin my build when I get back from Tennessee in June. I am still interested in the manifold too ;-)


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

VR6170K said:


> I'm going to try and stick with the ABF mk3 a/c and get some custom lines made. May look into to some corrado lines?


 Corrado lines wont work.. G60 lines have the evap like mk2's.. and VR's like mk3's... so are somewhat alike like mk3 lines on the aBF... but if you have a mk2 evap you will need to take out your dash and HVAC to put a new style evap and then use Corrado VR6 lines.. or just mk3 at that point. 

On my Corrado ABF (former G60) I swapped the evaporator. Real pain in the ass, but worth it cause you can also run Passats lines that are also cleaner.


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

Old Windy said:


> If you manage to acquire an early Digi 3 non inmobilizer then use that. As for the A/C, I see if your MK2 will fit on the ABF. If not I believe it is easier in the long run (parts availability) to make a 4 cylinder MK4 A/C compresor conversion and have a shop build / adapt the compressor to your MK2 chasis. A friend of mine if running like this on his GLI (wich I had pictures of it).
> 
> Here is the guide from ebay UK:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400478459557


 I ended up getting a ecu without the immobilizer so I'm goo there. I was going to check and see if the pulley's could swap on the a/c, doubt it but I will try and if so I can fab up a bracket no problem. Thanks for the tips, I thought of fabbing the lines as well and running the mk3 compressor, didnt think about a mk4 though.


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

vwnut18t said:


> I will lend any help I can. If you look in the eBay.uk you will find cap rotor stuff. That's where I found my set up. Take a pic of the coil plug and text it to me(you should still have my number). I have a few theories about the coil. I will begin my build when I get back from Tennessee in June. I am still interested in the manifold too ;-)


 I ended up getting some help across the pond and am getting a bunch of parts shipped over so I should be good. Thanks for the offer. Ya I have your number, still haven't checked the mani, I will make it a priority this week.


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

xtremevdub said:


> Corrado lines wont work.. G60 lines have the evap like mk2's.. and VR's like mk3's... so are somewhat alike like mk3 lines on the aBF... but if you have a mk2 evap you will need to take out your dash and HVAC to put a new style evap and then use Corrado VR6 lines.. or just mk3 at that point.
> 
> On my Corrado ABF (former G60) I swapped the evaporator. Real pain in the ass, but worth it cause you can also run Passats lines that are also cleaner.


 Well I think I will find an alternative since I just rebuilt the HVAC box and replaced the condenser and heater core while I was in there. I also am cooling at 32 degrees so my current a/c is excellent. I am sure I will end up having lines made, I wish I was in a nicer climate and I would just delete it but the 100 degree plus temps out here are too much to deal with.


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

Not sure if you made a decision on the trans yet, and maybe i looked over that part, but I would stick with 020 or jump to 02J on the trans. 

02As have notoriously sloppy shifting, and I can attest to that, as that's what I'm running. It really takes some of the fun out of driving it. My old 020 was better, just couldn't withstand the power of the new engine. 

Rebuilding the shifter and shift tower helped, but they're just inherently sloppy. 

02J is basically the same as 02A, with much improved shift feel, and of course different gearing. 

Some basic info you probably already know: 
4-cyl and 6-cyl engines have different bellhousing bolt patterns, so if you get an 02A or J, make sure it's from a 4-cyl. 
Axle flanges: 
020: 90mm or 100mm 
02A: 90mm or 100mm 
02J: 100mm or 108mm 

the nice part is that the 90mm and 100mm are basically interchangeable on the axle side, so you can make your axles match whatever flange the trans has. The 108s from the 02J are a different design.


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

rstolz said:


> Not sure if you made a decision on the trans yet, and maybe i looked over that part, but I would stick with 020 or jump to 02J on the trans.
> 
> 02As have notoriously sloppy shifting, and I can attest to that, as that's what I'm running. It really takes some of the fun out of driving it. My old 020 was better, just couldn't withstand the power of the new engine.
> 
> ...


 Yep I'm sticking with the 020 trans, already purchased a lightweight flywheel and stage 1 clutch kit from BBM. Thanks for all the info. My headers are in as well as some other little goodies from across the pond, still waiting on more though. My chip is being made at MAX RPM currently so that should be here some day. Waiting for parts from Europe sucks. It had a RDI Motorsports chip already in it but I couldn't find much info on them so I won't be keeping it, makes me wonder if the motor is cam'd though. I hope not sorta since the tune isn't set up for other cams. Might have to tell them to hold off till I crack it open. I just noticed the chip tonight. Anyway I also will be looking into a shorter radiator as I have found searching that the stock radiator is to long with the accessories, which bites because I just bought this one. My hope is that since I have a flex-a-lite fan set up for the scirocco radiators that a scirocco radiator will fit as well. I still need to get some parts powder coated and get by sons Baja out to paint till I get crackin. 

Thanks for all the help and tips. Anyone have a clue what the vacuum port on the ECU is and if it needs to be connected?


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## Old Windy (Apr 1, 2009)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400478459557

Don't know if this might help you, but this guys sells some sort of guide for this.


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## CalYPsoGLi12 (Jul 18, 2003)

VR6170K said:


> Thanks for all the help and tips. Anyone have a clue what the vacuum port on the ECU is and if it needs to be connected?



It connects to the Throttle body and counts air. definitely needed!


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

CalYPsoGLi12 said:


> It connects to the Throttle body and counts air. definitely needed!


Thanks Calypso.

Alright so I have had some time to work on this guy and get some parts off to powder coat. Most of all of my parts came in, just waiting on some TT plug wires. I'm going to replace some parts while the motor is out and on a stand, makes life much easier even if it isn't needed. Quick question is the oil pan gasket and rear main seal the same as a MK3 2.0?


Also been searching for ever to get a set of these. Finally picked some up from Poland.


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## Old Windy (Apr 1, 2009)

If you have the factory aluminum pan, see if you can take it with you and check if it's compatible. 
I went with a Schrick aluminum pan and windage tray and it mated without any problems to the ABA lower. 

Nice find on those low profile rain guards. 


A wireless device powered by Hamsters on wheels.


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

Old Windy said:


> If you have the factory aluminum pan, see if you can take it with you and check if it's compatible.
> I went with a Schrick aluminum pan and windage tray and it mated without any problems to the ABA lower.
> 
> Nice find on those low profile rain guards.
> ...


I wish I would of ordered them with my other order from across the pond but I didn't think about those two for some reason. It is a stock pan. I will take them down to the auto parts store and give it a shot. Thanks for the info.


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

So pulled the pan to head down and get some parts and found these plastic bits in the pan. Figured it out, the dip stick is busted up, whew. :beer:


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

Just for anyone that might be looking here, looks like the oil pan and rear main are the same as the mk3 2.0. I only saw the pictures, but they ordered them and I will know for sure tomorrow. MK2 stuff is for sure a no go.


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## vwnut18t (Jun 5, 2004)

The rear main and oil pan gasket are the same for mk2 and mk3 4cyl cars.


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

vwnut18t said:


> The rear main and oil pan gasket are the same for mk2 and mk3 4cyl cars.


I checked the mk2 stuff first and looking at the pictures the mk2 gasket was cork, not a thick rubber and metal gasket like the ABF. Was the same shape though. Also the rear main was the same but the mk3 they offered came with the new housing so I went with that for the same money.

:thumbup::beer:


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## vwnut18t (Jun 5, 2004)

The the early ones are cork, but the rubber ones work better. I like the windage tray/gasket combo. As far as the rear main goes you can order the vr6 rear main and just press it in. It's like $7 or something. If you have any questions about all that stuff just shoot me a text. Chances are I have done it or gone through it with these cars.


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

vwnut18t said:


> The the early ones are cork, but the rubber ones work better. I like the windage tray/gasket combo. As far as the rear main goes you can order the vr6 rear main and just press it in. It's like $7 or something. If you have any questions about all that stuff just shoot me a text. Chances are I have done it or gone through it with these cars.


Thanks and will do.


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

Okay quick question to anyone that know for sure. I am finishing up ordering some more parts and need to know which coolant sensor these ABF's use. I assume the ABA ones will work for this but they have three options at autohausaz. A white, blue and black one, the black one has a 4 wire plug and the other two have a two wire.

Thanks in advance.


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## Old Windy (Apr 1, 2009)

From the engine Bay shots that I have received from engine and parts sellers from the UK they look like a mix between ABA and VR6 sensors. I went with the water neck ABA sensors (just the yellow one). 
If you want to I happen to have a factory ABF/SEAT service manual. Let me know if you need it (it's in PDF format and in English) and I'll send it to you. If I find the pictures I'll post them here. 


(Found the pics. Will post the 2 were you see some of the sensors). 





















A wireless device powered by Hamsters on wheels.


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

Old Windy said:


> From the engine Bay shots that I have received from engine and parts sellers from the UK they look like a mix between ABA and VR6 sensors. I went with the water neck ABA sensors (just the yellow one).
> If you want to I happen to have a factory ABF/SEAT service manual. Let me know if you need it (it's in PDF format and in English) and I'll send it to you. If I find the pictures I'll post them here.
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks old windy. Not seeing the sensor I'm looking for in those pics. Its on the back of the block on the water neck that routes to the heater core. Is yours a 4 or 2 wire and can you tell what color it is? I have the harness but its not labeled and I haven't started putting the motor in yet, just trying to get everything lined up first. I would love to have that manual, I will PM you my email.

Thanks


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

Anyone have a spare ABF dizzy lying around :laugh: 

I'm powder coating, polishing, rebuilding etc. and foobar'd mine. :banghead:


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## not SoQuick (Jan 8, 2004)

What did you damage?chances are you might be able to fix it with parts from another vw dizzy.If not shoot me a pm and I'll see if I can dig one up for you :beer:


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## Old Windy (Apr 1, 2009)

I'll take a closer picture of mine. 
Did you damage the dizzi case? Internals are swappable with a regular (well most of the internals) 16v dizzy. 
If you broke the distributor top, I have seen that they are interchangeable with an air cooled vw engine. 


Brought to you by ACME.


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

not SoQuick said:


> What did you damage?chances are you might be able to fix it with parts from another vw dizzy.If not shoot me a pm and I'll see if I can dig one up for you :beer:


 I busted a ear off. I actually found one, just didn't update yet. Thanks 




Old Windy said:


> I'll take a closer picture of mine.
> Did you damage the dizzi case? Internals are swappable with a regular (well most of the internals) 16v dizzy.
> If you broke the distributor top, I have seen that they are interchangeable with an air cooled vw engine.
> 
> ...


 
Thank old windy, I have one on the way. Hopefully I can tear down this one on they way without damaging it, so I can send it off to powder coat. Wasn't there a guy here on the forum that made a small press or something? Would love to get my hands on one of those to get that pin out easier.


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## mozcar78 (Nov 30, 2003)

Re: Coolant Sensor. 
There are various options for coolant sensor. But just for clarification the ABA yellow four pin sensor uses two pins for gauge and the other two for ECU. So in essence you could just about use any two pin sensor. Unless each one puts out different signal strength that each respective ECU requires.

I guess the challenge here is finding out what sensor is stock for the ABF and use that one or similar. 

:beer:


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

mozcar78 said:


> Re: Coolant Sensor.
> There are various options for coolant sensor. But just for clarification the ABA yellow four pin sensor uses two pins for gauge and the other two for ECU. So in essence you could just about use any two pin sensor. Unless each one puts out different signal strength that each respective ECU requires.
> 
> I guess the challenge here is finding out what sensor is stock for the ABF and use that one or similar.
> ...


 Thanks, I got a tip its the white two wire. Appreciate the help. :beer:


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

mozcar78 said:


> Re: Coolant Sensor.
> There are various options for coolant sensor. But just for clarification the ABA yellow four pin sensor uses two pins for gauge and the other two for ECU. So in essence you could just about use any two pin sensor. Unless each one puts out different signal strength that each respective ECU requires.
> 
> I guess the challenge here is finding out what sensor is stock for the ABF and use that one or similar.
> ...


 Well, that 4 pin sensor has 2 wires that are for the A/C. The other 2 may be for the ecu, or gauges, I dont know. 
But I know for a fact that sensor can stop your compressor from running. 
I am in the process of putting ac on my car and I figured all of this out.


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

xtremevdub said:


> Well, that 4 pin sensor has 2 wires that are for the A/C. The other 2 may be for the ecu, or gauges, I dont know.
> But I know for a fact that sensor can stop your compressor from running.
> I am in the process of putting ac on my car and I figured all of this out.


 As long as its not on the ABF its all good. :beer:


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## Old Windy (Apr 1, 2009)

Mine has just the regular ABA sensor. Only thing I have to address is a fuel issue, engine exhaust fumes smells like is not burning fuel properly and dies when I come to a stop sometimes when not running a/c. When I'm running the A/C it dies 90% when I come to a full stop. 

I have to extend the harness in this areas. Already acquired a donor harness to splice in the same wire colors and solder them into this engine harness. This is an ABA harness since in my case I can acquire a full ABF and ECU (non Immobilizer type) but after doing a cost to benefit ration, going stand alone (in my case) is more cost effective. I'm still going back and fort with TT about the 16v chip....:banghead:











Brought to you by ACME.


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## mozcar78 (Nov 30, 2003)

xtremevdub said:


> Well, that 4 pin sensor has 2 wires that are for the A/C. The other 2 may be for the ecu, or gauges, I dont know.
> But I know for a fact that sensor can stop your compressor from running.
> I am in the process of putting ac on my car and I figured all of this out.


Sup!! 
I was going over the circuit diagram a couple days ago. There is a separate a/c sensor that sends feedback to the a/c module which is also connected to the coolant sensor signal. You are correct that they work together but the sensors are separated. The a/c sensor somehow controls the fan in an override manner. I still need to fully understand it's process to explain. But of course this is all relevant only if you're running the aba harness. :thumbup:

sent from my mooseknuckle


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

Old Windy said:


> Mine has just the regular ABA sensor. Only thing I have to address is a fuel issue, engine smells like is not burning properly and dies at idle sometimes.
> 
> I got to extend the harness a bit.
> 
> ...



Are you not running the ABF harness? Did you hook up the OBD port so you can read the codes? I am going to want to do that on mine, I'm sure there is a way...




mozcar78 said:


> Sup!!
> I was going over the circuit diagram a couple days ago. There is a separate a/c sensor that sends feedback to the a/c module which is also connected to the coolant sensor signal. You are correct that they work together but the sensors are separated. The a/c sensor somehow controls the fan in an override manner. I still need to fully understand it's process to explain. But of course this is all relevant only if you're running the aba harness. :thumbup:
> 
> sent from my mooseknuckle



I will for sure not be using the ABA harness but thanks for the info just in case :beer:


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## mozcar78 (Nov 30, 2003)

Yah. I understand your running the abf. It was for the previous poster. 
Anyway, Just use a two prong switch that is compatible with the signal your ecu searches. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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## Old Windy (Apr 1, 2009)

VR6170K said:


> Are you not running the ABF harness? Did you hook up the OBD port so you can read the codes? I am going to want to do that on mine, I'm sure there is a way...
> 
> 
> I will for sure not be using the ABA harness but thanks for the info just in case :beer:


I made a mix of ABF and ABA harness (had bits and pieces of the ABF harness). Mainly the fuel rail injectors engine connector.

Yes I can read OBD2 codes but since the ECU still reads it as an ABA 8V I get some errors that I ignore. I have been able to tune it properly to eliminate most of the errors down to just the 1st bank O2 sensor. I have to swap with a good OEM sensor and see if that clears up my cel, which I will do once I have a chance, finishing this thing up in record time. Planning a wedding and getting ready for it has taken a priority now and barely have any time for anything else at all.....:laugh:


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

Old Windy said:


> I made a mix of ABF and ABA harness (had bits and pieces of the ABF harness). Mainly the fuel rail injectors engine connector.
> 
> Yes I can read OBD2 codes but since the ECU still reads it as an ABA 8V I get some errors that I ignore. I have been able to tune it properly to eliminate most of the errors down to just the 1st bank O2 sensor. I have to swap with a good OEM sensor and see if that clears up my cel, which I will do once I have a chance, finishing this thing up in record time. Planning a wedding and getting ready for it has taken a priority now and barely have any time for anything else at all.....:laugh:


Sounds like your getting there. Congrats on the wedding .


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

So nothing new to report other than whats pictured below. Getting parts in from powder coat and doing my own polishing, nothing fancy just some odds and ends here and there. Mainly trying to source parts and get my sons Baja outta here.



















Did a crap job on polishing the upper mani but its a daily so I'm good with it. Taking off the powder coat is a bear. Plus I don't have patience for doing things by hand, I much prefer power tools. Looks better in person.


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

Will this set fit the ABF?

http://gruvenparts.com/website/cart/cart.php?target=product&product_id=333&category_id=60


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## scottgti (Sep 28, 2007)

VR6170K said:


> Will this set fit the ABF?
> 
> http://gruvenparts.com/website/cart/cart.php?target=product&product_id=333&category_id=60


No.


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

scottgti said:


> No.


Damn, thanks. Any set you know of that would? Alternator pulley looks the same at least?


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## scottgti (Sep 28, 2007)

VR6170K said:


> Damn, thanks. Any set you know of that would? Alternator pulley looks the same at least?


The crank pulley is the problem. It needs roughly 6mm shaved off the inside.


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## Old Windy (Apr 1, 2009)

scottgti said:


> The crank pulley is the problem. It needs roughly 6mm shaved off the inside.


This, but since you have the original ABF crank, take them both to a machine shop. They will know what to do. I'm actually running a no name alloy crank pulley. Mahine shop did the machining and balancing. :thumbup:


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## VR6170K (Jan 20, 2005)

Old Windy said:


> This, but since you have the original ABF crank, take them both to a machine shop. They will know what to do. I'm actually running a no name alloy crank pulley. Mahine shop did the machining and balancing. :thumbup:


Alright, thanks for the tip. I think I will take a chance.


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