# awp wiring thread



## $800rado (Jun 1, 2007)

*awp wiring thread is this correct???*

heres the low down on awp wiring for most swaps *check the bently to make sure colors are close more or less wires* I removed the ones i didnt use and capped them off
this ones going into my corrado cut and solder to fuse box

awp or most motor codes corrado fuse box


*AWP SIDE*----------------------------------------------------------*CORRADO SIDE*

*DLC t16 16 pin plug* 

pin 1 black/blue {-------------------------------------------------------} Q/03
pin 2 blank
pin 3 blank
pin 4 brown {---------------- ground----------------}
pin 5 brown {---------------- ground ---------------}
pin 6 orange/black {---- connects to T32a in spedo cluster and T10w pin 2----}
pin 7 grey/white {---- connects to T32/T32a and orange plug T10----}
pin 8 blank
pin 9 blank
pin 10 blank
pin 11 blank
pin 12 blank
pin 13 white/red {---- connects to pin 1 white plug T10w----}
pin 14 orange/brown {---- connects to pin3 white plug T10w T32a cluster----}
pin 15 blank
pin 16 red/white {----------------------------------------------------------------} Q/03 

orange plug T10

pin 1 gray/white {---- connects to pin 1 on *DLC*----}
pin 2 red/green {---- blank----}
pin 3 black/green {---- connects to back up lights----} F/07
pin 4 blank
pin 5 blank
pin 6 blue/white {---- connects to speed sensor in the cluster ----}
pin 7 green {---- coolant fan control ----} A1/05
pin 8 blue/red {---- a/c switch ----} N/05
pin 9 blank
pin 10 black/blue {---- brake lights ----} E/03 

brown plug T6 

pin 1 black/purple {---- ECU control connects with T14 ----} G1/10
pin 2 purple/white {---- fuel relay----} G1/03
pin 3 red/black {---- stater interlock ----} F/01
pin 4 red/green {---- ECU ----} F/05
pin 5 blue/yellow {---- control elements ----} G1/04

White plug T10w 

pin 1 white/red {---- Goes to pin 13 DLC T16 ----}
pin 2 black {---- Goes to DLC connects to all orange/black----}
pin 3 white {---- Goes to DLC connects to all orange/brown----}
pin 4 white/red {---- Goes to Clutch switch----}
pin 5 brown/red {---- Goes to alt light in cluster ----}
pin 6 brown/red {---- thermostat in raditor ----} A1/05
pin 7 blank
pin 8 blank
pin 9 blank
pin 10 blank

T14 in the engine

pin 1 green/black {---- oil pressure switch ----}
pin 2 black/green {---- powers speed sensor switch 20a fuse ----}g1/11
pin 3 green {---- speedo goes to T32/28 blue plug behind your speedo ----}
pin 4 purple {---- engine coolant temp


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## $800rado (Jun 1, 2007)

bump


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## 2OVT (Sep 11, 2009)

What the **** is Q? What is Q to?

I only used F, G1, G2 and (S; which you kind of minus since that is for the wipers) Z1 and IIRC Y.

Supply pictures- interested in seeing how you did this. My route-
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5634051-Corrado-20v-1.8T/page4


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

Q is Alot if dash stuff. http://a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html has Alot of good info.


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## $800rado (Jun 1, 2007)

2OVT said:


> What the **** is Q? What is Q to?
> 
> I only used F, G1, G2 and (S; which you kind of minus since that is for the wipers) Z1 and IIRC Y.
> 
> ...



Q/03 is to 7.5 fuse from the corrado for the *DLC* in the bently for the 1.8t side


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## $800rado (Jun 1, 2007)

hey bonesaw am i in the right direction


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

If I recall correctly it just needs switched ignition.


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## 2OVT (Sep 11, 2009)

$800rado said:


> Q/03 is to 7.5 fuse from the corrado for the *DLC* in the bently for the 1.8t side


I'm confused. If you're doing a partial swap (splicing AWP to CE2) then why do you need to mess with Q? What part of Q is to which harness? Just interior?



> Q/03 Cigarette Lighter, Radio, Amplified Speaker Power


explain to me why you need this, please? And wtf is the DLC?

Also- did you use both sides of the T14?

Sorry- I'm still figuring my wiring out.


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## dik-van-dub (Jul 25, 2010)

this would work out so much easier for you guys

T6-brown connector
pin 1 -black or black/purple 15 amp fused switched live 15 to ecu T121/3 Y (g1 pin 4, needs fuse)
pin 2 - purple/white ecu T121/65 to fuel pump relay earth Y (g1 pin 3)
pin 4 - red/green 20 amp fused constant positive 30 to ecu T121/62 Y (Y pin 4, needs fuse)
pin 5 - blue/yellow fused 10 amp from fuel pump relay Y (g1 pin 10)

T14a - 14 pin connector near battery
pin 4 -purple coolant temp sensor (214) Y/M (G2 pin 3, requires resistor to read correctly)
pin 5 - red/purple 10 amp fused switched live to injectors (183) Y ( Z1)
pin 6 - yellow/black fused 10 amp from fuel pump relay (fuse shared with T6/6) Y (g2 pin 4)
pin 7 - brown earth (204) (197) Y Earth to chassis or battery -VE (Edit by mat-mk3)
pin 9 - brown/white earth for senders Y (G1 pin 6)

T10W -White connector
pin 4 - white/red ecu T121/39 to clutch pedal switch Y (Clutch pedal switch in car)


10 Orange
pin 1 - grey/white to ecu T121/43 (229) Y ( diagnostics K diag port)
pin 2 - green/red to ecu T121/81 Y (Tach signal from ecu via tach adaptor to G1 pin 12)
pin 6 - blue/white ecu T121/54 to speed signal in dash wiring Y (Hall speed sensor on clocks W pin 1)


T10h Blue
pin 1 - brown/white to brown/blue ecu T121/34 to throttle sender T6b/6 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 2 - green/white to green white ecu T121/72 to throttle sender T6b/1 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 3 - yellow/green to yellow/green ecu T121/73 to throttle sender T6b/2 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 4 - grey/red to grey/red ecu T121/36 to throttle sender T6b/3 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 5 - white/blue to white/blue ecu T121/35 to throttle sender T6b/4 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 6 - grey/blue to grey/blue ecu T121/33 to throttle sender T6b/5 Y (Throttle pedal in car)


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## $800rado (Jun 1, 2007)

2OVT said:


> I'm confused. If you're doing a partial swap (splicing AWP to CE2) then why do you need to mess with Q? What part of Q is to which harness? Just interior?
> 
> 
> explain to me why you need this, please? And wtf is the DLC?
> ...


DLC is your data link connector so you can read your codes in the bently it is connected to a 7.5 fuse and links up to your radio so i picked Q/03 it is the fuse to my corrados radio as for *T14*
i have it on paper ill post it


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## $800rado (Jun 1, 2007)

dik-van-dub said:


> this would work out so much easier for you guys
> 
> T6-brown connector
> pin 1 -black or black/purple 15 amp fused switched live 15 to ecu T121/3 Y (g1 pin 4, needs fuse)
> ...


where did you find this one from can you link the swap and for T14a pin 4 what kind or size resistor did you use


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## 2OVT (Sep 11, 2009)

dik-van-dub said:


> this would work out so much easier for you guys
> 
> T6-brown connector
> pin 1 -black or black/purple 15 amp fused switched live 15 to ecu T121/3 Y (g1 pin 4, needs fuse)
> ...


holy tats- thanks. 

When it says 'needs fuse' I am assuming you add a fuse? Sorry, I'm new to wiring and am still figuring all this out for my swap. It's the part I am stuck with :laugh:

What is all the 'Y' deals about?

Also I am confused with the T14a, since that sits in the bay- are you guys just pulling it through the firewall or cutting and extending? 



$800rado said:


> DLC is your data link connector so you can read your codes in the bently it is connected to a 7.5 fuse and links up to your radio so i picked Q/03 it is the fuse to my corrados radio as for *T14*
> i have it on paper ill post it


Ok cool, that gives me a good idea. Have been trying to figure out what to do with daignostics port.


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## $800rado (Jun 1, 2007)

T14a i ran mine through the fire wall


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## 2OVT (Sep 11, 2009)

$800rado said:


> T14a i ran mine through the fire wall


did you chop the connector off or what? pictures would be rad :beer:


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## $800rado (Jun 1, 2007)

kept the plug cut as far back as you can


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## 2OVT (Sep 11, 2009)

ok, just like I did then. I was planning on doing the same thing. I was always assuming when people said T14a that they were talking about one half of the T14a/b connector, so I just confused myself :screwy: 

we should keep this going for a sticky eventually. I'd like to be able to get it all down pat before I splice my harness later this week 

and please more pictures of the harness through firewall.


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## $800rado (Jun 1, 2007)

ill post the pics just trying to get it done in the right direction


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## dik-van-dub (Jul 25, 2010)

the y and n are for yes needed, n for not needed

i keep the t14 plug in place it helps for when you want to remove your motor


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## 2OVT (Sep 11, 2009)

dik-van-dub said:


> the y and n are for yes needed, n for not needed
> 
> i keep the t14 plug in place it helps for when you want to remove your motor


And just spliced the other end of the t14 to the ce2
Connectors?

Also- my g60 doesn't have any sort of line to communicate to ISO 9141, so how should the dlc be ran?

What about the black connector and the purple one?


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## dik-van-dub (Jul 25, 2010)

black is for the cruise control, and which purple connector are you reffering to

any how link to thread is here

the holy grail of wiring me7 ecu's


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## 2OVT (Sep 11, 2009)

dik-van-dub said:


> black is for the cruise control, and which purple connector are you reffering to
> 
> any how link to thread is here
> 
> the holy grail of wiring me7 ecu's


I'll take a pic. Assuming my purple is because my donor mk4 was an auto.

edit: memory is telling me it is gray, not purple. my apologise.


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## $800rado (Jun 1, 2007)

dik-van-dub said:


> this would work out so much easier for you guys
> 
> T6-brown connector
> pin 1 -black or black/purple 15 amp fused switched live 15 to ecu T121/3 Y (g1 pin 4, needs fuse)
> ...


hey your brown connector T6 pin 4 says it goes to pin 4 of what ? yours says to Y\04 i put mine to F\05 its a ecu power and goes to a fuse box in the a2 side http://a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html


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## dik-van-dub (Jul 25, 2010)

it actually is live from Y4

why get power from other parts of loom when you can use the standard ce2 engine plugs makes removal a lot easier if need be


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## 2OVT (Sep 11, 2009)

It was gray.


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## dik-van-dub (Jul 25, 2010)

i would say thats for the auto loom, but couldnt say for certain


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## 2OVT (Sep 11, 2009)

figured it all out


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## $800rado (Jun 1, 2007)

:beer:


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## 2OVT (Sep 11, 2009)

I have stripped my harness and followed the rabbit hole.

before-









after-


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## $800rado (Jun 1, 2007)

yup i cut mine pretty thin too


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## 2OVT (Sep 11, 2009)

$800rado said:


> yup i cut mine pretty thin too


you should put up a build thread or post more pictures to give me inspiration to finish  

did you primlarily use F, G1, G2, Y and Z1 for the swap?


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## qksilva (Aug 24, 2005)

Here's my contribution. I compiled this after looking at a whole bunch of swap threads, bently research, and trial & error. I just got everything to work today. A/C tommorrow and other small stuff. 










updated table


great link
http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.ph...ss-install-FAQ


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## 2OVT (Sep 11, 2009)

awesome, lets keep this alive:thumbup:


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## qksilva (Aug 24, 2005)

I updated my table a little. 

Everything works but the reverse lights, CEL, and VSS signal to ECU. 

The CEL doesnt light up even at start up. IDK why. 

I didnt hook up the reverse switch to the trans yet. 

The big issue is the ECU isnt getting a VSS signal though my speedo is working. Does the AWP ecu even need a vss signal? Is there anyway to get the signal to the ecu besides running a mk4 cluster?


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## 2OVT (Sep 11, 2009)

qksilva said:


> I updated my table a little.
> 
> Everything works but the reverse lights, CEL, and VSS signal to ECU.
> 
> ...


 if you're not using the original trans that the harness is for, you'll need a tach adapter to convert the signal from analog to digital


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## qksilva (Aug 24, 2005)

2OVT said:


> if you're not using the original trans that the harness is for, you'll need a tach adapter to convert the signal from analog to digital


 So, I need to get a signal converter for the vss? Im using a mk3 vss which i think outputs a digital signal


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## 2OVT (Sep 11, 2009)

qksilva said:


> So, I need to get a signal converter for the vss? Im using a mk3 vss which i think outputs a digital signal


 not too sure then.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Subd:beer:


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## bansheelos (Nov 29, 2004)

:thumbup:


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## 2OVT (Sep 11, 2009)

bump


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## 2OVT (Sep 11, 2009)

> T6-brown connector
> *pin 1 -black or black/purple 15 amp fused switched live 15 to ecu T121/3 Y (g1 pin 4, needs fuse)
> pin 2 - purple/white ecu T121/65 to fuel pump relay earth Y (g1 pin 3)
> pin 4 - red/green 20 amp fused constant positive 30 to ecu T121/62 Y (Y pin 4, needs fuse)
> ...


 everything in bold, in the quote is done on my Corrado. 

here are my questions- 
I am missing 
t10x Orange plug- I am missing pin 2 (green/red to ECU T121/81) to tach adapter to G1 pin 12. 
t10w White plug-Missing pin 4 (white/red to ECU T121/39) to clutch pedal switch. 

what should I do for these missing wires in my plugs? 

also pin 1 from my t10w White plug runs into the DLC, IIRC it is supposed to run to pin 2? 


It says t10x Orange plug pin 1 (grey/white to ecu T121/43 (229) to DLC. What wire on DLC? black/blue? 


for T14a (14 pin connector near battery) it says pin 4 (purple) CTS to G2 pin 3, what size resistor? I have 100ohm 5% tolerance. 

another T14a one. Pin 6 (yellow/black) fused 10amp to fuel pump relay (fuse shared with T6/6) to g2 pin 4. 
What does it mean when it says fuse shared with t6/6? I do have a t6/6 but I wasn't going to use it? Do I have too? 

How about wiring in a CEL/MIL light? The early g60 didn't have any of this and it would be a nice feature. 

also, where is the starter interlock??? or am I just dumb with this :laugh: 

how many inline fuses did everyone use to? I only used two? 

also for the ECM harness itself, there are quite a few wires that were cut as part of cleaning the auto trans/n80/vac. booster for the auto crap out. should I just cut them short and cap/tape them and hide them in the loom?


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## 2OVT (Sep 11, 2009)

for future reference: anyone using an A/T (tiptronic) ECM harness for the swap, the following wires are there, you just have to extend one and repin two female connectors (IF, using both sides of the t6/10 connectors.) 

t10x (orange connector)pin 2- from ECM T121/81 to t10x male connector, not female. Need to re-pin female connector to accept. 
t10x (orange connector)pin 6- goes from ECM T121/54 to TCM. Need to cut, extend, and pin into t10x male connector. Female end of this connector has the wire.
t10w(white connector)pin 4- ECM T121/39 to t10w male connector, not female. Need to re-pin female connector to accept.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

qksilva said:


> So, I need to get a signal converter for the vss? Im using a mk3 vss which i think outputs a digital signal


get the VSS patch from unitronic...that's what i use in my MKI


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## qksilva (Aug 24, 2005)

Vegeta Gti said:


> get the VSS patch from unitronic...that's what i use in my MKI


Cool. I'll look into that.


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## $800rado (Jun 1, 2007)

whats the scoop on this 20VT was it a good direction did it help how close are you kinda side tracked on my swap workn on my sisters 73 c10 chevy ill chime in from now and then


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