# Slight Clunk Issue (Almost A Rattle?) - Performance Struts



## DUTCHswift (Feb 22, 2012)

So I noticed ~1 week ago that I'm getting a slight clunk in the drivers side front corner and I'm not sure what it is. I jacked the car up yesterday and checked the wheel bearing (left to right / up and down / pry bar under the wheel) and couldn't replicate the noise. It happens on small pavement cracks more than anything. I can load up the suspension on a dip or something and I don't hear the noise. I did notice that when I'm aired up higher and the bags are at a higher pressure, the noise is much more prevalent.

I'm going to pull the wheel tomorrow to see if I can't figure out where its coming from. I'm aware of the strut bushing issue on the Slam Series bags and how they wear out, but I don't believe it's the same configuration for the performance series bags. I still have my sway bar in and I'm using the supplies Airlift end links, but I haven't had this issue until now. I'll look for any loose hardware and possible rubbing or contact points between components when I'm in there.

Anyone have any suggestions?

My suspension setup:
- Accuair E-Level
- Accuair VU4
- Air Lift Performance Series Struts
- Air Lift Double Bellow Rears
- Air Lift 4 Gallon Polished Tank
- Dual 400c Compressors
- Dual SMC Check Valves
- Dual 1/4" Water Traps
- 3/8" Air Lines
- Black Controller
- Wireless Key Fobs
- TyrolSport Sub Frame Bushings (Front/Rear)
- Passenger Side Frame Notch
- IDF Rear Adjustable Upper Control Arms
- Airlift Performance Rear Shocks

Car in question:


----------



## DUTCHswift (Feb 22, 2012)

I found this information, so I'm going to retighten the strut and jam nuts tomorrow and hopefully that takes care of the issue.



Soundwave_vr6 said:


> not sure about leak but the clunk is the jam nut for sure.
> 
> so many people have the issue my self included. :beer:





hyphytrain203 said:


> Spot on homie :thumbup:
> 
> I had a chance to get under the car tonight and sure enough it was the jam nut. Easy fix. :beer:





hyphytrain203 said:


> The silver nut is the jam nut. In order to fix the clunk, you must loosen the jam nut and tighten the zinc coated strut nut down onto the bearing. Once the play has been removed, tighten the jam nut onto the strut nut to lock everything into place.


My only issue that I still have is not being sure what the torque specs on these two nuts are.


----------



## fasttt600 (Apr 12, 2007)

you got it. If re tightening it doesn't solve it, you might have to replace the pillow ball bearing. not terribly hard, but you will need to pull struts and have a press to get the old one out.


----------



## DUTCHswift (Feb 22, 2012)

I tried loosening the jam nut so I could tighten the top shock shaft nut, but couldn't break it free. The allen tool that I have isn't strong enough to keep the shaft from spinning. I'm going to have to take it to my buddy's shop and have him break them free and tighten them back up. :banghead:


----------



## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

DUTCHswift said:


> I tried loosening the jam nut so I could tighten the top shock shaft nut, but couldn't break it free. The allen tool that I have isn't strong enough to keep the shaft from spinning. I'm going to have to take it to my buddy's shop and have him break them free and tighten them back up. :banghead:


Use two wrenches to break way the jam nut, the allen screw is used fold back the shaft when tightening the bearing nut (bottom nut).


----------



## s3phil (May 16, 2016)

*slight clunk issue*

Thought i would just add in on this thread as i'm having the same issues and am really struggling. 

My kit is second hand but in good condition. I have had the fronts wound up to allow lower PSI and a sensible daily ride height (50 PSI) as alot of people seem to mention its the strut topping out but this definitely isn't the issue. I'm getting a loose clunking/rattling from the front, this seemed to be more noticeable on the front passenger but its definitely coming from both sides now and has been getting slightly louder over time, not sure if its the sway bar/ARB as its on a horizontal. Seems to happen over bumps and uneven roads at speed anything up to 40-45mph.

I have had the car into a trusted air ride fitter and i have had the following done try to track the noises down:

new airlift performance drop links
front struts removed stipped down, dampers checked, and new top mount bearings fitted
Struts refitted and all bolts, camber plates and top/locking nut tightened down

The car is 2009 and only has 14,500 miles on the clock so bearings, bushings and ball joints should be ok.

Hopefully we can nail this one down as its so annoying!


----------



## fasttt600 (Apr 12, 2007)

whats the distance between the locking collar and the bottom of the bag?


----------



## s3phil (May 16, 2016)

Mine has around 2 to 2.5 inches from the bottom of the bag to the locking collar. I had it wound up to allow me to run 45-50 PSI and stops the common issue of the strut topping out. I found another post on here that seems to be the same issue as we have. the guy said he lifted his brake rotor/strut and the top locking nut etc moved up in the top mount and bearing housing. I'm getting bilstein rear struts fitted tomorrow so i'm going to ask my guy to try lifting the brake rotor with a jack and then try to see if there is any play in the top bolts and tighten them down again.

Apparantly the top zinc nut and locking nut are known for coming loose and can need tightening down often. I hope this is all it is as the sound it makes if off putting and make you think the whole stut is going to drop out!

If this doesn't solve it i'm at a loss!

here's the post that covers this off.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...rlift-Performance-struts-knocking-sound/page2


----------



## DUTCHswift (Feb 22, 2012)

s3phil said:


> Here's the post that covers this off.
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...rlift-Performance-struts-knocking-sound/page2


Yea, I quoted the pertinent information from that thread in the 2nd post in this thread.


----------



## blue bags (Jul 1, 2009)

I had the exact same issue, with MK6 performance struts. i pulled the struts out and took the lock nut off and tightened both and reinstalled and it totally solved it. when I had the strut out of the car you could feel a very very slight amount of play in the camber plate, but that small amount resonating through the strut tower can make quite a racket. :beer:

car looks excellent as well :beer::beer:


----------



## s3phil (May 16, 2016)

blue bags said:


> I had the exact same issue, with MK6 performance struts. i pulled the struts out and took the lock nut off and tightened both and reinstalled and it totally solved it. when I had the strut out of the car you could feel a very very slight amount of play in the camber plate, but that small amount resonating through the strut tower can make quite a racket. :beer:
> 
> car looks excellent as well :beer::beer:


I had my airride fitter do the same thing, took the both struts completely apart and then put them back together along with new top mount bearings, checked the dampers for leaks and rebound, the zinc and locking nut were tightened down, most likely more than the specified torque advised too.

All back on and it still rattles on both sides but more on the passenger, but i guess this is as there are more bumps on that side (i'm in the UK). its got us stumped as there isn't any other signs of wear or movement on the arb bushes etc. 

Do you think new top mounts would do the trick as this is what has been suggested although its quite a bit to spend if its not the answer???


----------



## blue bags (Jul 1, 2009)

I would try re-torquing them before replacing the parts. the first time I disassembled I replaced the pillowball mounts, and it improved for a couple weeks but the noise came back on the passenger side, so when I took them out again I just tightened the nut a bit more, the one directly on top of the camber plate with the centering sleeve, and It has been perfect ever since.


----------



## Tyler James Inc. (Jan 9, 2009)

Fúcking incredible. ❤


----------



## s3phil (May 16, 2016)

DUTCHswift said:


> Yea, I quoted the pertinent information from that thread in the 2nd post in this thread.


Dutch, did you get this noise sorted in the end?


----------



## s3phil (May 16, 2016)

blue bags said:


> I would try re-torquing them before replacing the parts. the first time I disassembled I replaced the pillowball mounts, and it improved for a couple weeks but the noise came back on the passenger side, so when I took them out again I just tightened the nut a bit more, the one directly on top of the camber plate with the centering sleeve, and It has been perfect ever since.


Thanks for the heads up, would prefer not to change parts. I just can't think the noise could be anything else other than the top mounts as it is coming from both sides and is a clunky/rattley loose sounding noise. if we remove the struts and re-torque the nuts and the noise is still there what would you suggest?


----------



## DUTCHswift (Feb 22, 2012)

s3phil said:


> Dutch, did you get this noise sorted in the end?


Yea. We took off the jam nut and tightened down the strut not with an impact, then put the jam but in with an impact. Both sides needed to be tightened up actually, but now all the clunk and rattles are gone.


----------



## Clewley8 (May 21, 2008)

I've had to do this to mine in the past too. Most recently this last weekend......


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## s3phil (May 16, 2016)

DUTCHswift said:


> Yea. We took off the jam nut and tightened down the strut not with an impact, then put the jam but in with an impact. Both sides needed to be tightened up actually, but now all the clunk and rattles are gone.


Great, glad you managed to sort it out! There are so many posts online on this issue. I think i need to get some new jam nuts as when checking mine last night one just spins when you try to torque it down?! Does it not matter if you tighten both top nuts more than the spcified torque amounts, more so on the zinc nut above the bearing? i tightened my zinc nut down pretty tight but don;t know what torque as i used a standard socket wrench.


----------



## s3phil (May 16, 2016)

northendroid said:


> Use two wrenches to break way the jam nut, the allen screw is used fold back the shaft when tightening the bearing nut (bottom nut).


Do you need to use an allen key/screw when tightening the zinc strut nut and if so what does it do? when i tried tightening them down last night i just removed the top jam nut with a socket rench and then used the socket wrench on the locking zinc nut to tighten that down. can you damage anything if you don;t use an allen key/screw? A socket is all you can use anyway as you can't get to the top strut nuts with a standard spanner/rench because of the top mount surround.


----------



## Clewley8 (May 21, 2008)

s3phil said:


> Do you need to use an allen key/screw when tightening the zinc strut nut and if so what does it do? when i tried tightening them down last night i just removed the top jam nut with a socket rench and then used the socket wrench on the locking zinc nut to tighten that down. can you damage anything if you don;t use an allen key/screw? A socket is all you can use anyway as you can't get to the top strut nuts with a standard spanner/rench because of the top mount surround.


The Allen key is used to hold the shaft of the strut so it doesn't spin while tightening the zinc nut. If you can get that zinc nut to tighten to the proper torque without the shaft of strut spinning you shouldn't need the Allen key. If I'm not mistaken I believe the torque setting of the zinc nut is something like 20-25 ft/lbs..... And the top nut is 40 ft/lbs????


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DUTCHswift (Feb 22, 2012)

We used an impact gun to zip the jam nut off and used the impact gun to tighten the strut nut and then install the jam nut.


----------



## Clewley8 (May 21, 2008)

DUTCHswift said:


> We used an impact gun to zip the jam nut off and used the impact gun to tighten the strut nut and then install the jam nut.


I did the same thing, I don't feel like having to tighten it up again.......


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## President Lincoln (Jun 27, 2005)

For the record. I have about 2 miles on my Airlift Performance struts and took the car home and parked it. Same issue as mentioned coming from the drivers side. Talked with Aaron at Airlift today and they suggested tightening this up just like this thread says. Brand new out of the box and I thought I ruined a wheel bearing or something but nope. Sounds like this is the issue to me. Not sure how I feel about the product now. The XL's were noisy as well. I think this will be my last Airlift endeavor. 

Thanks for posting guys :thumbup:

Edit:

So I went home and pulled the strut from the car again (3rd time) tightened this nut and things are fixed. What a headache. I got to say this is not good QA. these should have been that tight from the factory.. but on the other hand the Airlift technical support customer service was very good.


----------



## chiefos (Mar 16, 2015)

To what torque did you tighten it?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk


----------



## President Lincoln (Jun 27, 2005)

chiefos said:


> To what torque did you tighten it?
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk


I just made sure it was hella tight. LOL - Funny, it has been 2 years and all has been great until a few weeks ago and the noise is back. Now 30k miles later. So today I am pulling the struts and tightening the nuts again.


----------



## Plausible (Jul 11, 2016)

Per Air Lift: 

Locking collar (should be hand tight) 
Jamb nut (gold nut - 25lbs/tq)
Locking nut (silver nut - 40lbs/tq)

However, they revised the aforementioned design and now use this:


----------

