# Problem with Kinetic VR6 Turbo Kit



## DAMACGON (Nov 22, 2004)

Hello,
I just finished installing the Kinetic turbo kit for my VR6.
This is how i installed all the vacuum conections :


So the problem is, when i push fulltrottle or the car goes on boost, it bucks and backfires if you leave the foot on the trottle, because it won't spool and buck without reving freely.
I had been touching the nut which goes under the idle red valve on the TB, better see the picture :

... So i don't know where the problem comes from.
Any help ?
P.D.: Also i've I rev high the car, like goint to ingnition cut, and stop from trottling, it would directly die, like having too much fuel.
I checked the fuel pressure and it's fine, tested with the stock 4.0B and the 3.0B and the same happends with both.
Thanks.


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## 92gtikid (Jun 4, 2004)

*Re: Problem with Kinetic VR6 Turbo Kit (DAMACGON)*

What are you running for software?


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## DAMACGON (Nov 22, 2004)

I'm Running the Kinetic Stage 1 Kit, which comes with 36# C2 software for OBD-I coilpacks.
I tested now the car without the boost pressure regulator and rides the same, and with the 02 disconected and the same happends.
When you manage to rev it, it makes explosions ( no spark, but ****ing high explosions lol.. )


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## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

*Re: Problem with Kinetic VR6 Turbo Kit (DAMACGON)*

step 1.
unhook ebc from wastegate, and run off the spring to see what happens.


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## DAMACGON (Nov 22, 2004)

Hello,
Well i've been reading a bit about TPS reset, disconecting the battery and disconecting the ECU and leaving it 10 mins idling... Did it and it worked, i had the TPS bad calibrated due to me tweaking with the idle screw, which i have to adjusted again to stop it from stalling since it's too close.
I tested the car with the Vacuum system has i posted and it worked ok, i had the O2 disconected because i thought some problem could appear from it, but i think is fine, so riding with it disconected makes the car run bit rich a buck some time ??
TBT-Syncro, why do you say disconected from the wastegate top conector?
I followed the Turbonetics hooking diagram.
Thanks !
P.D.: How much boost should i give to my stage 1 kinetic kit with 10:1 CR and None IC ?


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## DAMACGON (Nov 22, 2004)

Also another question, which FPR should i use? I have both, 3.0 and 4.0, now i'm using the 3.0b.
Thanks


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## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

*Re: (DAMACGON)*

what are your spark plugs gapped at? put them at .022-.024" gap if they arent already


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## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

*Re: (DAMACGON)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DAMACGON* »_Hello,

How much boost should i give to my stage 1 kinetic kit with 10:1 CR and None IC ?

7psi. you may be able to run more, but you'll get detonation problems when it gets hot, and you'll cook your pistons.


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## DAMACGON (Nov 22, 2004)

*Re: (crazysccrmd)*

I just intalled the ones which came on the kit ( they are copper ones ) and didn't gap them. This is important for 0.5B - 7 PSI ?
Thanks


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## DAMACGON (Nov 22, 2004)

*Re: (TBT-Syncro)*

Ok thank you, i'll run 7psi. Any idea how much hp should it give?
Thanks.
I'll try to dyno it this week.


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## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

*Re: (DAMACGON)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DAMACGON* »_I just intalled the ones which came on the kit ( they are copper ones ) and didn't gap them. This is important for 0.5B - 7 PSI ?
Thanks

very very important. the gap out of the package of the last set of bkr7e i had was about .032 which is way too big. gap them down to .022-.024" and it should make a huge difference


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## DAMACGON (Nov 22, 2004)

*Re: (crazysccrmd)*

Yes, they were BKR7E.
I'll do it today or tomorrow and see, that would give a smoother ride, i suppose.
Thanks!
One last thing, which FPR use ? 3.0 or the 4.0 ?
Thanks !


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (DAMACGON)*

if this is a corrado, use the 4 bar FPR (stock one)
if you are breaking up at 7 psi, you are likely blowing out the spark as mentioned. 
also, run JUST the WG spring for boost control until you get things squarred away, then introduce the EBC to the equation.


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## DAMACGON (Nov 22, 2004)

Hi, i tested with the WC Spring alone and with the EBC and it runs exactly the same, to 0.4B which is 6PSI.
I having the bucking problem, the car is running lean, it won't rev up freely and without power if you push fulltrottle, but if you give it part-trottle it would go just a better, no good, but better, sometimes rarely you feal how it gives the power, so theres something to be with the TB.
I think it could be the TPS ?
I changed changes today and all the same.
Testes : Another working MAF, Gapped the Sparks to 0,022 , VAC reads at idle -0.8Bar which is very good, I got new Coilpacks, New Wires, New Plugs, also tested with the 02 lambda conected and disconected and acts the same so there is not the problem.
2 things i suspect are the blue CTS or the TB TPS.
What do you people think ?
Thanks.


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## DAMACGON (Nov 22, 2004)

Ohh, also tested both FPR, 3.0B which is the one im using now ( mine is a 2.8L ) and the stock one which is a 4.0B and works exactly the same, bit more rich with 4.0B just that.


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## DAMACGON (Nov 22, 2004)

Last night i disconected the battery and ECU for TPS recalibration and improved, but nothing todays goes like ****..


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## DAMACGON (Nov 22, 2004)

Just got back from testing it, and it goes bad, like when its running on 5 cilinders, but no smoke what so ever, just makes lots of explosions and some of fire by the exhaust.
Anyone can help


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## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

*Re: Problem with Kinetic VR6 Turbo Kit (DAMACGON)*

take some pics of your setup.
did you unhook the boost controller yet just so you're only running off the spring?


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## DAMACGON (Nov 22, 2004)

Yes, is unhooked.
So now is like kinetic gives the setup


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## DAMACGON (Nov 22, 2004)

Ok, another test, disconected the MAF and car won't start up. Conected it again and with first crank it would start.
Seams that neither MAF and O2 sensor are the problem, is somewhere else.


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## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

*Re: (DAMACGON)*

try running without the TPS plugged in, or try a known working one if you can. also use the 4 bar FPR. if youre running lean its probably not the blue CTS, that generally creates rich problems. i had very similar problems as you, which i solved by gapping the plugs to .022 and replacing the TPS. i could drive part throttle fine, but full throttle would pop and flame out the exhaust and i wouldnt go anywhere


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## DAMACGON (Nov 22, 2004)

*Re: (crazysccrmd)*


_Quote, originally posted by *crazysccrmd* »_try running without the TPS plugged in, or try a known working one if you can. also use the 4 bar FPR. if youre running lean its probably not the blue CTS, that generally creates rich problems. i had very similar problems as you, which i solved by gapping the plugs to .022 and replacing the TPS. i could drive part throttle fine, but full throttle would pop and flame out the exhaust and i wouldnt go anywhere

Yes, i gap them as you said yo 0.022 but nothings really changed, a smoother idle, and the TPS i'm going to test one which i know is working correcty, i'll change the complete Trottle Body and see.
...







...if this results not to be the problem..







... i just got the cranck sensor, cam sensor and knock sensors.... let's see.
I'll get back with the results.
Thanks.


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## DAMACGON (Nov 22, 2004)

Ok tested the working 2.9 TB from another corrado vr6 I have and the car changed dramatically, seams like i gain 80HP. 
But still dosent run as it should, on high RPM it makes like explosions. And on cold 70-80º runs much better than on 100º which losses power, much rich.
So this could be a problem of the Blue CTS and the O2 Sensor ?
Tomorrow im planning buying does 2 new sensors. 
Thanks


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## DAMACGON (Nov 22, 2004)

Another thing, the car stalls sometimes if i push it at high RPM and then dont give it more gas, not always happends, but sometimes and its annoying, thats i think is another sympton of rich mixture, plus the MPG is very low. 
Still usign 3.0Bar on my OBD-I Coilpacks.


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## DAMACGON (Nov 22, 2004)

I'm stucked...i don't give with the problem








Changed : CTS, IAT, tested another TPS with TB...
If i start the car and disconect the MAF, it stops.
If i disconect 02 sensor, start the car, starts, disconect MAF, it would die.
with TPS disconected it would start a run the same i think.
Also got back to the 4.0FPR.

Thanks


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## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

*Re: (DAMACGON)*

generally speaking the car should run with the MAF unplugged if the TPS is still plugged in. the opposite is also true, TPS unplugged, MAF plugged in the car should run. the ecu uses a combination of the two to measure the amount of air entering the engine. 
can you read the codes off the ECU or run any logs of the measuring blocks?
100% sure the coilpack is good? no cracks, doesnt arc to the cylinder head? tried swapping it with a known good coilpack? if its cracked/dying it could produce weak spark which would give similar problems as too large a plug gap.
redo your vacuum lines for now also; get rid of anything extraneous and not necessary for the engine to run. run a line from the turbo (pre-throttle body) to the wastegate port on the side (not the flat part). run a line from the manifold to the DV. run a line from the manifold to the boost gauge. leave out the boost controller and carbon canister since they are extra and not needed. 
here is how my obd1 vrt was setup


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## DAMACGON (Nov 22, 2004)

Hello, yep now i got it simple, just the necessesary working for FPR, Diverter, WG and Boost Gauge.
The Car would ALWAYS die if the MAF is disconected.
That means something is wrong with the TPS or Wiring of the TPS ?
The Coilpack is NEW Bosh. Wires are new Bosh. SparkPlugs are Gapped to 0.022 and New NGK.
Must be something related with TPS or Wiring.
CPS could be?
Anyone has the Wiring diagram of the TPS conector to the ECU PIN conector so i can take a look with the multimeter ?
Thanks


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## DAMACGON (Nov 22, 2004)

I don't now how to read the CODES from my OBD-1 and i don't know either if its possible.


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## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

*Re: (DAMACGON)*

depending on some stuff it could be complicated...do you have a vagcom, or access to one? thats the easiest way. under the shift boot there are two plugs, one black, one white. you need an adapter (2x2) that goes between those plugs and the standard obd port plug that vagcom uses.
if you dont, and have a CEL you can blink the codes using those same two plugs under the shift boot. get a paperclip, bend it in a 'U' shape and put one end in each of the plugs closest to the shifter. hold it there for 5s, then take it out. the CEL should hold solid, then blink a series of numbers. ex: blink blink (pause) blink (pause) blink (pause) blink (pause) and then start over with the same cycle. put the paperclip back in for 5s, and it will blink the next code, if there is one. if not, it will blink 4 times long (bliiiiink bliiink bliiiiink bliiiink). write down the 4 number series it gives you and look them up, it will tell you the codes.
if you dont have a CEL, then hopefully its a 93+ that has the wiring in place but no light (like mine). in that case, pull out the brake/abs cover piece and look at the wiring behind the plug. the black/yellow and black wire are the two wires you want. use a test light, put the point of the test light into the black/yellow and the negative in the black. that turns the test light into the CEL. do the steps descirbed above to blink the codes


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## DAMACGON (Nov 22, 2004)

*Re: (crazysccrmd)*

Ok i'll try to do that, but my car was a G60. 
I then Swapped to VR6 from a MK3 AAA from 95.
My 2x2 connector still conected to the ECU ? I mean, it dosent matter i removed the DIGI-1 and put the Motronic 2.9 harness ? The conection wiring of my 2x2 to the ECU remains there?
I follow this codec : http://a2resource.com/electrical/codes/vr6.html 
Thants correct?


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## DAMACGON (Nov 22, 2004)

*Re: (DAMACGON)*

Was a 1989 G60.


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## DAMACGON (Nov 22, 2004)

*Re: (DAMACGON)*









I think i got this one. 
I read that +94 can use Vagcom.


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## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

*Re: (DAMACGON)*

yeah, those are the plugs im talking about...but i dont know what the 3d one is, mine only has two. as long as all the wiring is hooked up you should still be able to read the ecu through them.


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## DAMACGON (Nov 22, 2004)

Todays News :
I removed the WG cap and revised the Spring, was all ok, bolted up Again.
- Installed the VSS gearbox sensor.
- Manage to make the ABS LED work as a CELL a throw codes, but i didn't know how to understand it, so i stop it.
- Had the battery disconected for 10minutos.
When i went home, the car seamed to go much better, would push instantly if I pushed fulltrottle, and rev up nice... I thoung it was just the first 2 shots, until it gets Hot, but no...it ran all the time like that up to home.
So... i made something which improved the car.


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## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

*Re: (DAMACGON)*

ive heard that some versions of the C2 software dont run right without having the VSS input to the ECU. mine ran fine without it, but i guess not all of them do. that couldve been the problem the whole time


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## DAMACGON (Nov 22, 2004)

Quick answer, just PM you hehehe.
Well, i think that could be the problem, because another guy from Spain is having same issues, but i don't know if the has de VSS conected or not.
I'll ask him or make him post here, also VR6T with same file. 
RippingRalf ( Clayton ) toldme to use the 3.0 FPR, since the software is made for that fuel pressure and not the 4.0 which i'm now using, any suggestions? 
I'll try to contact Jefnes for the VSS quoute.
Thanks


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## naro (Aug 22, 2006)

hola DAMACGON, soy naro de forocepos, como ya te dije tengo el mismo problema que tu. podrias indicarme donde esta el VSS?
aver si entre los dos solucionamos algo.
yo hable con jeff hace algun tiempo y el me dijo que montaria 3bar FPR. 
mi ingles es muy malo sorry! por cierto te dejo un dato que dio mi vagcom, tal vez tenga algo qeu ver, y no consigo saber que es:
65286-unknow error code
30-00 open or short to B+


_Modified by naro at 5:14 AM 7-14-2008_


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## UrSeRiOuS (Mar 19, 2005)

*Re: (naro)*

no hablo espanol


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## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

*Re: (UrSeRiOuS)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UrSeRiOuS* »_no hablo espanol

computer translation:
Hello DAMACGON, I am naro of forocepos, as already I told I have you the same problem that your. podrias to indicate me where this the VSS? Aver if between the two we solve something. 
I speak with jeff does algun time and the told me that montaria 3bar FPR. 
My English is very bad sorry! certainly you abandonment a data that gave my vagcom, perhaps have something qeu to see, and not with himself to know that is: 
65286-unknow error code 30-00 bid for or shorts to B +


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## naro (Aug 22, 2006)

thanks crazysccrmd !, sorry

yes, my VSS is conected


_Modified by naro at 4:34 AM 7-15-2008_


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## DAMACGON (Nov 22, 2004)

Ok, he is saying that has the same problem as me, and where is the VSS located.
The VSS is located at the back of the gearbox, the the tranny speed sensor ( el sensor de velocidad que marca al cuadro ). 
He spoke with Jefnes3 and told him to use a 3.0B FPR for the application.
Also he is saying that his vagcom gave some errors codes, which could be the same as mine.
Vagcom :
65286-unknow error code
30-00 open or short to B+
Any ideas ?
P.D.: VSS sensor is not the problem, because when i fiddle again with the ABS CEL, the car went again a bit bad...then I installed the 3.0B FPR and went worst.... 
I recived an Email from Jeffrey and it seams to be something related with wiring differences from US/Euro markets. So i'm waiting for further notice from C2 UK office.
Thanks !


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## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

*Re: (DAMACGON)*

It shouldnt be VSS. I dont have a VSS in my car, and nor do the vast majority of swapped VR cars.


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## DAMACGON (Nov 22, 2004)

I'll post further notice from C2 which they know the problem on Euro Cars.
Thanks !


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