# Does the A6 have the same issues the S4 does?



## Corbic (Sep 1, 2003)

I found a 2000 A6 for cheap with ~130k on it. I was wondering if the 2.7TT is exactly the same as the one found in the S4. I know the S4 B5 is considered rather problematic and is recommended only if the potential owner is clinically insane with a large wallet. 

Anything to look for? Would a A6 make a better winter beater then a A4? (I'm finding A6's in better condition for less).


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## bjtgtr (Dec 13, 2006)

The 2.7T will have all of the same oil leaks, turbo life issues, aux. water pump leakage, etc as a B5 S4 would have. If you are able to do work on the car yourself then it makes sense to own one. If not maybe consider a 2.8. 

Things to look for

1. service records
2. if none are available I would suggest a T-belt/water pump service ($279 from ECS tuning for the parts)
3. Cam adjuster seals, cam shaft seals, front crank seal, valve cover gaskets, inspect for leakage
4. auxilary water pump leakage (very common. It is located under the intake manifold)
5. rear trans seal, rear diff seals, front diff seals inspect for leakage
6. window guides (all 4 doors)
7. sunroof drains, check for leakage
8. automatic transmission (check for proper operation. I worked as a dealer tech for 5 years and replaced a ton of auto transmissions and or torque converters. with 130k I would be leary of anything with an automatic. Especially if it has been chipped!!!!)
9. Turbocharger operation. make sure they are not noisy and they do not leak oil. 

2.7T's are awesome motors with tons of potential. I have a 2001 A6 2.7T w/ 6sp manual and love my car. I just went through all of the above steps when I bought mine. I spent about 600 bucks for all of my parts but did all the work myself and probably saved myself 2-3k on labor costs alone. Hope this list helps you. GL:beer:


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## johnxyz (Sep 18, 2002)

*02 a6 2.7t*

Hi bjtgtr, I just bought above for cheap but of course it has all the oil leaks that you described and as pointed out on the Blauparts video. The guy didn't take acre of it at all - just found out yesterday 3 0f the 4 17" BBS rims are bent - into the dumpster and replaced with used 16" Audi rims - oh well. 

I need to order the TB kit as well as all those engine seals. But this is the 1st I've read of the auxilary waterpump - is this separate from the 'standard' water pump that comes with a TB kit?

Also the rear differntial (square box - is this part of the Quattro system?) is covered with fluid. Is there a seal and filter for this? Can the fluid be replaced/topped up?

Lastly the power steering fliud is leaking - the reservoir doesn't hold any fluid. Is this simply a leaking hose/gasket? Or more serious requiring parts replacement.

It looks like a nice car but...... Thanks for any advice








bjtgtr said:


> The 2.7T will have all of the same oil leaks, turbo life issues, aux. water pump leakage, etc as a B5 S4 would have. If you are able to do work on the car yourself then it makes sense to own one. If not maybe consider a 2.8.
> 
> Things to look for
> 
> ...


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## johnxyz (Sep 18, 2002)

*TB kit, engine seals etc for A6 2.7T*

Follow-up - Any preference to buy a Timing Belt Kit? ECS, Blauparts, PurMS, German Parts? Do I need all the extra tensioners and pulleys that are offered in the upgrade/ultimate TB kits? Thanks again


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## bjtgtr (Dec 13, 2006)

John

Sorry to hear that you got blind sided with all those oil leaks. It really sucks that some people just dont take care of their nice cars. You would be horrified by some of the really nice Audi's I have worked on at the dealership that where just completely beat to ****! 

here is the link for the t-belt kit. This kit also comes with a new front crank shaft seal, and both cam shaft seals. http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-C5_A6-Quattro-2.7T/Engine/Timing/ES6168/

here are the cam adjuster seals. you need two of them. http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-C5_A6-Quattro-2.7T/Engine/ES258758/

The rear diff is the "box" shaped part in the rear. See below for pictures. There is no filter just 75-90 gear oil. there are many different brands available. I will most likely use the factory stuff as I still have a small supply of fliuds from when I used to work at the dealership. 
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-C5_A6-Quattro-2.7T/Drivetrain/Differential/

here is a link for the aux. water pump. http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-C5_A6-Quattro-2.7T/Engine/Cooling/Water_Pump/ES2710/

I am working at the shop today and before I leave I will bring my car in the shop and put it on the lift and take photos of the area's to look for on these 2.7T cars. I will post the pictures this evening. I will idenitfy all the items you are inquiring about.

BJ


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## bjtgtr (Dec 13, 2006)

here you guys go. I will highlight a few problem areas for the 2.7T in the A6, Allroad, and S4

First the car. I just bought this on July 1. 96,000 miles, sport suspension, bose sound, 01E 6sp manaul. ( i stole the whhels off my brother in laws A4. They are not mine. 19" ASA GT1. )










Shot of motor 









covers removed









*On an automatic equipped car you will most likely need to remove your Y-pipe to be able to see the auxillery water pump. It is located under the intake manifold, which also needs to be removed to replace the aux. pump, and is about the size of a Red Bull can* My car is a manual trans so it does not have a secondary air pump thus making it easy to see the aux. water pump to inspect it. The function of this unit is to flow coolant through the turbos after the car has been shut off to ensure no oil "coking" due to extreme heat that build up once coolant flow has stopped from the main engine driven water pump. The aux. water pump is electrically controlled by the ecm.
*pointing to the area of the aux. water pump*









*mine is a great example because it is starting to piss coolant. see all the pink crusty stuff*









To replace the aux. water pump the intake manifold must be removed so a new set of intake manifold gaskets are needed. 

next up are oil leak areas

Cam shaft "adjuster" seals are loctaed on the front of the drivers side cylinder head and the rear of the passanger side cylinder head facing the firewall. These are very common to leak and are are pretty cheap to buy the parts for. 
*driver side*









*passenger side*









The front crank shaft seal is also a potential leak area on higher mileage 2.7T's. Signs of this can be oil on the front part of the oil pan above where the lower and upper pan seal together.








the seal lives behind the crank shaft t-belt gear. To repalce it the front crank bolt must be removed and the t-belt gear removed.









under carriage looking from front to back









Also the turbo's will start to leak too. they are located here.*if you have a auto trans car you will only barely be able to see the turbos* 
passenger side *note: the front diff seals are located where the front drive shafts meet the transmission and are also a place common for leakage*









driver side









the rear trans seal is also a common place for leakage. It is where the center driver shaft attaches to the transmission.









Rear diff seals are located here









driver side is nice and clean









passenger side rear diff seal is starting to leak just a little bit. no need to worry about it quite yet.


















I hope this helps. 

I plan to replace my aux. water pump in the next couple weeks and will do a DIY if anyone is interested. 

Same goes for the rear diff seals. I am planing on replacing the gear oil in the trans and rear diff so I will replace the passenger rear diff seal at the same time and make a DIY for that too. 

Hopefully it can save a few of you some $$$$

BJ


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## johnxyz (Sep 18, 2002)

Thanks for taking the time to take and load the photos along with the text - really helpfull. If my diff is covered in fluid I can assume the frt and rear seals are done? Is it a major job to unbolt the shat and replace the seals? The aux cooler looks a little tricky, too what with having to remove the Y manifold. So many leaking seals on the 2.7T and S4..... Thanks again - post pics of the diff seal swap as well as the pump if you're able to.


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## bjtgtr (Dec 13, 2006)

In my experience the side seals are the ones that leak. They are pretty easy to do on the C5 chassis cars if you have the proper tools which I can outline in a DIY. Keep an eye out in the next few weeks for a Aux. water pump DIY and a Rear Diff service DIY.


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## Massboykie (Aug 15, 2006)

Here's some more info... probably got covered above, but I figured I would throw it on anyway... 

http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Audi/B5/S4/audiforums.com_Audi_S4_Newbie_FAQ.pdf 
http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Audi/B5/S4/Audisport-iberica.com_S4_B5_Buyersguide.pdf 

Cheers 
Massboykie


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