# *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience*



## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

I posted this in the MKV forum under a different thread but I figured that this forum is more apropriate since most poeple visiting here has had experiece with the stock diverter valves failing. 
I went down to Eurocode yesterday and wanted to talk to them personally about this configuration. I was a little hesitant since there seems to be a discrepancy on this board whether a mechanical valve is good to put on our engines or not.
David went out of his way to explain in detail why this is a solution and not just a temporary "fix". He also gave me the keys to his MKV GTI and let me feel the smoothness.
So what did I do? I bought one---installed it today








Since David went into such detail with his explanation, I'll try to just give a quick summary:
Let's just talk about which is better for our engines and negate the blown seals for a second. From what I understood, with the electronic diverter valve the valve is in a sense "confused". The turbo outputs the boost then the DV gets the signal electronically and thinks that it's too much so it opens up a bit. Then the turbo thinks that it's not giving enough boost because the valve just let some of it out. This goes back and forth and back and forth through the whole cycle making our turbos work harder.
This is why we see on our dyno graphs the up down peaks and this is why we feel it in our acceleration.
Now, because there is no rubber diaphragm to blow, it is now a fix for our blown stock dv valves.
I went for a ride just after the install and just like David had promised, there is a smooth acceleration with constant and consistent boost throughout the whole powerband.
I give it a thumbs up! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Here's a pic of the mechanical valve installed. 








I'll guarantee that these will be flying off the shelf once the word of mouth gets around.


_Modified by M3toGLI at 6:54 AM 1-28-2007_


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## Branman (Oct 6, 2004)

great write up!


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## jhtopilko (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (M3toGLI)*

"Let's just talk about which is better for our engines and negate the blown seals for a second. From what I understood, with the electronic diverter valve the valve is in a sense "confused". The turbo outputs the boost then the DV gets the signal electronically and thinks that it's too much so it opens up a bit. Then the turbo thinks that it's not giving enough boost because the valve just let some of it out. This goes back and forth and back and forth through the whole cycle making our turbos work harder.
This is why we see on our dyno graphs the up down peaks and this is why we feel it in our acceleration"

So this is why there is this stupid feeling. This should even help the feel of an otherwise stock car.


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (jhtopilko)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jhtopilko* »_"Let's just talk about which is better for our engines and negate the blown seals for a second. From what I understood, with the electronic diverter valve the valve is in a sense "confused". The turbo outputs the boost then the DV gets the signal electronically and thinks that it's too much so it opens up a bit. Then the turbo thinks that it's not giving enough boost because the valve just let some of it out. This goes back and forth and back and forth through the whole cycle making our turbos work harder.
This is why we see on our dyno graphs the up down peaks and this is why we feel it in our acceleration"

So this is why there is this stupid feeling. This should even help the feel of an otherwise stock car.

I don't know what a stock graph looks like but this is a dyno that I did a while back:








The guy making the runs said,"You know, it feels like your car is accelerating and then backing off for a split second then going back and forth like it doesn't know what to do."
Well you can obviously see this in the curves on my dyno.


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## Kid Hobo (Sep 4, 2005)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (M3toGLI)*

^^^ nice numbers btw!
I just talked to ECS about a DV fix. I was told that something's in the works. But either way, this could be a great way to get rid of the annoying peaky hesitation you're all talking about. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I'll give it a short wait to see how things go.
Cheers,
KH


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## chancer (Dec 24, 2006)

How loud is it?


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## whizbang18T (Nov 17, 2000)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (M3toGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *M3toGLI* »_Now, remember that this is not a blow off valve. The open pipe that you see in the picture is blocked off and diverted to a vacume line from the engine through the blue silicone tube that is provided. 

*shakes head*
that vac line is what causes the DV to open ... 1st turbo car?


_Modified by whizbang18T at 8:30 PM 1/21/2007_


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## OOOO-A3 (Jul 20, 2004)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (M3toGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *M3toGLI* »_there seems to be a discrepancy on this board whether a mechanical valve is good to put on our engines or not.

That's because people are talking about different things and lumping it all under the 'DV/BOV' argument, and few people understand what's really going on. The Eurocode (ATP flange/GReddy RS valve) solution recirculates (instead of venting to atmosphere) and mounts in place of the original valve (since the original valve acts as a shunt right at the turbo itself), both of which are GOOD. The only thing it doesn't do is react to ECU requests to vent, since there is no electrical actuation of the valve. Overall, this is an OK solution that doesn't freak out the ECU like an atmospheric valve would.
The main things which would be 'not good' about a mechanical valve is if it (a) vents to atmosphere, or (b) is not adjustable. e.g. the HKS SSQV. 

_Quote, originally posted by *M3toGLI* »_
Let's just talk about which is better for our engines and negate the blown seals for a second. From what I understood, with the electronic diverter valve the valve is in a sense "confused". The turbo outputs the boost then the DV gets the signal electronically and thinks that it's too much so it opens up a bit. Then the turbo thinks that it's not giving enough boost because the valve just let some of it out. This goes back and forth and back and forth through the whole cycle making our turbos work harder.
This is why we see on our dyno graphs the up down peaks and this is why we feel it in our acceleration.

*This* is what I would like to see some debate on. I personally really don't buy that description, but I'm open to reasonable discussion and analysis (too much to hope for?







) to get to the facts. Mainly because the _turbo_ doesn't 'think', it just produces boost which is regulated by the ECU via wastegate and DV control. But, like I said, I'm interested to see what facts come out, particularly because in your other thread there was discussion of the stock valve 'waffling' due to a weak spring, which could explain the boost oscillations you describe. 


_Quote, originally posted by *M3toGLI* »_The open pipe that you see in the picture is blocked off and diverted to a vacume line from the engine through the blue silicone tube that is provided.

NO!







NO!







NO!








The 'blue silicon tube that is provided' is the VACUUM SOURCE which actuates the diaphragm in the valve. It is NOT where the recirculated air goes! The ATP flange that mounts the valve to the turbo has two passages - one for boost air TO the valve, and one for the recirculated air FROM the valve which goes back into the turbo _just like the original valve was designed to do_. This is what makes this flange better than ones that mount near the throttle body, for example. 
Here's a picture of the flange, you can see the coaxial passages. The disk on the side is what blocks off the vent of the GReddy valve to make it recirculate rather than venting to atmosphere, as you described.










_Modified by OOOO-A3 at 10:23 PM 1-21-2007_


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## jhtopilko (Dec 3, 2006)

Thanks for the pic. The OP should have included it.


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## OOOO-A3 (Jul 20, 2004)

*Re: (jhtopilko)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jhtopilko* »_Thanks for the pic. The OP should have included it.

It's from here, where there's also a link to a PDF of the installation instructions.


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## jhtopilko (Dec 3, 2006)

If the FSM has any info on the dv acting as a pop off valve as well to assist in boost control. One would hope this behavior could be turned off, unless it is because of the weak diaphragm in the stock dv.


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## im_a_local (Jun 4, 2004)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (M3toGLI)*



M3toGLI said:


> Let's just talk about which is better for our engines and negate the blown seals for a second. From what I understood, with the electronic diverter valve the valve is in a sense "confused". The turbo outputs the boost then the DV gets the signal electronically and thinks that it's too much so it opens up a bit. Then the turbo thinks that it's not giving enough boost because the valve just let some of it out. This goes back and forth and back and forth through the whole cycle making our turbos work harder.
> This is why we see on our dyno graphs the up down peaks and this is why we feel it in our acceleration.
> QUOTE]
> If, this is the result of cunfusion, then I would have to blame the software. But I highly doubt thats the case. I agree with the previous poster- the reason for the flutter is that of the mechanical static pressure of the (dv) diaphram spring.


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## volcomska (Mar 7, 2006)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (M3toGLI)*

How does your Ecu feel about this? Any CELs?


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (whizbang18T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *whizbang18T* »_
*shakes head*
that vac line is what causes the DV to open ... 1st turbo car?


Yep, it's my first turbo.

_Quote, originally posted by *OOOO-A3* »_
*This* is what I would like to see some debate on. I personally really don't buy that description, but I'm open to reasonable discussion and analysis (too much to hope for?







) to get to the facts. Mainly because the _turbo_ doesn't 'think', it just produces boost which is regulated by the ECU via wastegate and DV control. But, like I said, I'm interested to see what facts come out, particularly because in your other thread there was discussion of the stock valve 'waffling' due to a weak spring, which could explain the boost oscillations you describe. 


I think the "waffling" that you're reffering to had nothing to do with a weak spring. Others have tried this and the results are about the same. From the dyno graphs I've seen, most 2.0Ts have the peak/valley on their dyno graphs.

_Quote, originally posted by *OOOO-A3* »_
NO!







NO!







NO!








The 'blue silicon tube that is provided' is the VACUUM SOURCE which actuates the diaphragm in the valve. It is NOT where the recirculated air goes! The ATP flange that mounts the valve to the turbo has two passages - one for boost air TO the valve, and one for the recirculated air FROM the valve which goes back into the turbo _just like the original valve was designed to do_. This is what makes this flange better than ones that mount near the throttle body, for example. 


Hey man, I did the best I could to try to explain everything I've learned from David about exactly how this works, but I guess I didn't take enough notes.
The bottom line is this...It's on my car-it feels strong- and I'm happy.
If everybody still wants to talk about getting different springs and waiting around for more and more claims from companies that say that "this is the wrong thing to do, but they're going to have a fix for this real soon." then go ahead and wait.
I just wanted to jet you guys know what my experience was and it was all positive.
Sorry for my lack of knowledge with the forced induction. I'm learning things every day.


_Modified by M3toGLI at 8:43 PM 1-21-2007_


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (im_a_local)*


_Quote, originally posted by *im_a_local* »_
If, this is the result of cunfusion, then I would have to blame the software. But I highly doubt thats the case. I agree with the previous poster- the reason for the flutter is that of the mechanical static pressure of the (dv) diaphram spring.









People have tried stronger springs and the results have been about the same. What's a stronger spring going to do with your blown rubber gasket?


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## DimceR32 (Jul 28, 2005)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (M3toGLI)*

so if im reading this right

If your flashed.....you spike too high and the ecu opens the dv, and this goes back and forth?








How will the ecu control this once you change out the dv to mechanical?


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## CtGTi77 (Dec 7, 2006)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (M3toGLI)*

thank you for the write up. it was VERY informative, and helped me to better understand how this kit works. i just placed my order


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## jhtopilko (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (DimceR32)*

With the wastegate control we have available to us, a pop off valve shouldn't be nesessary.


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (DimceR32)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DimceR32* »_so if im reading this right

If your flashed.....you spike too high and the ecu opens the dv, and this goes back and forth?








How will the ecu control this once you change out the dv to mechanical?



I'm not too sure. Give eurocode a call because I don't want to give anymore construed information.
Let me ask you guys this because maybe I need to be a little more educated---
If the spring is the only problem with the valve letting out boost then why is it connected electronically?
If the spring is the only problem then it might as well be a mechanical valve.


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## OOOO-A3 (Jul 20, 2004)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (M3toGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *M3toGLI* »_
Let me ask you guys this because maybe I need to be a little more educated---
If the spring is the only problem with the valve letting out boost then why is it connected electronically?
If the spring is the only problem then it might as well be a mechanical valve.


_Quote »_How A Generic Mechanical DV Works:
During normal operation under idle conditions there is a vacuum applied to the top of the mechanical diverter valve, and the valve is partially open. This is perfectly normal.
Under heavy load conditions there is boost applied to the top of the diaphragm in the valve helping to push it closed along with the pressure from the pre-load spring. When the throttle plate shuts you now have a vacuum on the top of the diaphragm and this pulls the valve open, along with the backed-up boost pressure between the turbo and the throttle plate pushing the valve open.

The OE valve uses an electrical solenoid instead of the vacuum line. This gives the ECU control over the valve, allowing to be operated 'on demand' rather than just reacting to conditions. 
Why not let it just react? It's been stated that:

_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
The use of a mechanical valve is possible, as we and others have tested, however, it's operation is not ideal for this application.
It's response is delayed and while no check engine light is thrown, it is impossible to determine what long term effects this may have. 
...
Its response is delayed because the throttle plate does not actually close when you lift off the throttle.
On this application, in which a drive-by-wire (electronic) throttle is used, the throttle plate is momentarily kept open to reduce emissions and possibly for other reasons which I am unaware.
This delays how quickly the intake manifold can return to vacuum (from where a mechanical valve must be referenced from), thusly delaying the actuation of a mechanical valve.


Like the quote says, who knows how critical this is and what the long-term real-world effects would be. It could be that there's no damn difference at all, and the purely mechanical (GReddy) solution will be A-OK, (or not). So far the solution that Forge is developing (mechanical/electronic hybrid, it seems) isn't available yet, but eventually it'll be interesting to see how the two approaches compare over several thousand miles.


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## chrisddo (Mar 17, 2001)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (OOOO-A3)*

It could've been interesting to see your long term fuel trim before and after the install to see it it leans out the car....hmmmm.


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (OOOO-A3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OOOO-A3* »_
Like the quote says, who knows how critical this is and what the long-term real-world effects would be. It could be that there's no damn difference at all, and the purely mechanical (GReddy) solution will be A-OK, (or not). So far the solution that Forge is developing (mechanical/electronic hybrid, it seems) isn't available yet, but eventually it'll be interesting to see how the two approaches compare over several thousand miles.









Thanks for the info. Like I said, I'm learning about the turbos every day. Today was the first time I drove a long distance with the new valve. The thing I noticed the most was the overall smoothness. It would be interesting to see the air to fuel and see how it's different.
I'll definitely be keeping in touch with this.


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## im_a_local (Jun 4, 2004)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (M3toGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *M3toGLI* »_
I'm not too sure. Give eurocode a call because I don't want to give anymore construed information.
Let me ask you guys this because maybe I need to be a little more educated---
If the spring is the only problem with the valve letting out boost then why is it connected electronically?
If the spring is the only problem then it might as well be a mechanical valve.

The diverter valve has an electrical solenoid to activate the requested open/close position. Easily stated, on (1) is open, off (0) is closed. The off position is held by a mechanical spring. Obviously, in the on position, electrical current is used to counteract the spring pressure, opening the valve.
The only difference between an electrical valve and a mechanical one, essentially, is the source of power for the solenoid. The mechanical valve uses vacuum to actuate the open position, whereas the electrical valve uses electricity.
Considering the two, I believe the electric is better. It takes far greater time for pressure to degenerate and form a vacuum, and for the existing pressure at the valve to travel, in form of a wave, through tubing to the vacuum source, until the vacuum at the valve surpasses the spring's mechanical ability to hold the valve shut, consequently relieving pressure from the charge system.
Another difference between the Eurocode item you have and the stock valve is this: your valve releases air into the atmosphere, whereas the stock unit does not. The air that is released IS metered, and ME9 has already made proper fuel calculations, so when the Eurocode unit pops off, you will see a spike of enrichment. Data log your O2, you'll def see it.
Which is better is quite controversial, but I tend to lean towards letting it escape to the atmosphere. I have read some write-ups of the two, and one simply explained this: If the air is re-directed into the intake piping (before the turbocharger obviously) it may cause the turbocharger to surge, which you can find the explanation http://www.turbobygarrett.com/...ml#t9 there. So what if you run rich for a split second I suppose.

just my $.02


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (im_a_local)*


_Quote, originally posted by *im_a_local* »_
Another difference between the Eurocode item you have and the stock valve is this: your valve releases air into the atmosphere, whereas the stock unit does not. 


Wrong. 
My valve recirculates just like the stock valve.
The Eurocode valve that I'm using is working just like the stock valve except for one thing: 
The stock is electrical; mine is mechanical.


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## im_a_local (Jun 4, 2004)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (M3toGLI)*

Is there plumbing that connects from the open end in the picture to the intake plumbing? i'm assuming that it is disconnected for the photo......?


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## OOOO-A3 (Jul 20, 2004)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (im_a_local)*


_Quote, originally posted by *im_a_local* »_your valve releases air into the atmosphere, whereas the stock unit does not. 


_Quote, originally posted by *im_a_local* »_Is there plumbing that connects from the open end in the picture to the intake plumbing? i'm assuming that it is disconnected for the photo......?

Nope - go back and read the whole thread. It's all there.
Look at the photo I posted. See the disk? It goes in side the 'horn' to block it off so it doesn't VTA. See the two concentric chambers in the flange? 'Boost' enters through one chamber, and when the valve opens it exits through the other chamber back into the turbo housing exactly as the stock valve does. All internal to the valve, no extra plumbing, no VTA. 
Follow the link above to the PDF of the install instructions and you'll see the step-by-step.


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## OOOO-A3 (Jul 20, 2004)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (im_a_local)*


_Quote, originally posted by *im_a_local* »_The only difference between an electrical valve and a mechanical one, essentially, is the source of power for the solenoid. The mechanical valve uses vacuum to actuate the open position, whereas the electrical valve uses electricity.
Considering the two, I believe the electric is better. It takes far greater time for pressure to degenerate and form a vacuum, and for the existing pressure at the valve to travel, in form of a wave, through tubing to the vacuum source, until the vacuum at the valve surpasses the spring's mechanical ability to hold the valve shut, consequently relieving pressure from the charge system.


I'm mostly with you on this. What I'd like to see debated is the following:
Per my quote from Mike @ Forge, above, what he seems to be describing as the difference between the throttle-by-wire 2.0TFSI and a 'traditional' throttle is that when you let off the accelerator, there is a *slight* delay before the throttle plate closes. Fuel may be reduced immediately, but the delay affects the airflow (_I'm guessing the extra air leans out/dilutes the exhaust gas to promote catalyst efficiency?_)
In simple terms, the purpose of a bypass valve (whether recirculating or venting to atmosphere) is to relieve the pressure wave caused by the high-velocity air from the turbo 'crashing' into a closed throttle plate. Throttle closes/vacuum returns to manifold which actuates a mechanical valve right at the moment when it's needed to relieve the situation caused by the throttle plate being closed.
So.... what's the big deal if the throttle plate remains open for a slight delay after taking your foot off the accelerator? If the throttle plate is open, the boost doesn't *need* to be diverted since it'll just 'pass through' the engine anyway. When the plate does close, vacuum returns/mechanical diverter valve opens, all is good. I'm not really arguing with Mike's statement, but it's not clear to me why the delay is an issue. I'd like to understand that part better. If the delay is *not* a problem, then the choice between the ATP/GReddy assembly and an alternative that would have electrical actuation would then become a choice between features of two good solutions rather than a choice between a 'good' solution and a 'not good' one. 
Anyone with some technical insight (and something to back it up) care to contribute?


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## magilson (Apr 18, 2005)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (OOOO-A3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OOOO-A3* »_
I'm mostly with you on this. What I'd like to see debated is the following:
Per my quote from Mike @ Forge, above, what he seems to be describing as the difference between the throttle-by-wire 2.0TFSI and a 'traditional' throttle is that when you let off the accelerator, there is a *slight* delay before the throttle plate closes. Fuel may be reduced immediately, but the delay affects the airflow (_I'm guessing the extra air leans out/dilutes the exhaust gas to promote catalyst efficiency?_)
In simple terms, the purpose of a bypass valve (whether recirculating or venting to atmosphere) is to relieve the pressure wave caused by the high-velocity air from the turbo 'crashing' into a closed throttle plate. Throttle closes/vacuum returns to manifold which actuates a mechanical valve right at the moment when it's needed to relieve the situation caused by the throttle plate being closed.
So.... what's the big deal if the throttle plate remains open for a slight delay after taking your foot off the accelerator? If the throttle plate is open, the boost doesn't *need* to be diverted since it'll just 'pass through' the engine anyway. When the plate does close, vacuum returns/mechanical diverter valve opens, all is good. I'm not really arguing with Mike's statement, but it's not clear to me why the delay is an issue. I'd like to understand that part better. If the delay is *not* a problem, then the choice between the ATP/GReddy assembly and an alternative that would have electrical actuation would then become a choice between features of two good solutions rather than a choice between a 'good' solution and a 'not good' one. 
Anyone with some technical insight (and something to back it up) care to contribute?


same thing I wanna know http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (OOOO-A3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OOOO-A3* »_
I'm mostly with you on this. What I'd like to see debated is the following:
Per my quote from Mike @ Forge, above, what he seems to be describing as the difference between the throttle-by-wire 2.0TFSI and a 'traditional' throttle is that when you let off the accelerator, there is a *slight* delay before the throttle plate closes. Fuel may be reduced immediately, but the delay affects the airflow (_I'm guessing the extra air leans out/dilutes the exhaust gas to promote catalyst efficiency?_)
In simple terms, the purpose of a bypass valve (whether recirculating or venting to atmosphere) is to relieve the pressure wave caused by the high-velocity air from the turbo 'crashing' into a closed throttle plate. Throttle closes/vacuum returns to manifold which actuates a mechanical valve right at the moment when it's needed to relieve the situation caused by the throttle plate being closed.
So.... what's the big deal if the throttle plate remains open for a slight delay after taking your foot off the accelerator? If the throttle plate is open, the boost doesn't *need* to be diverted since it'll just 'pass through' the engine anyway. When the plate does close, vacuum returns/mechanical diverter valve opens, all is good. I'm not really arguing with Mike's statement, but it's not clear to me why the delay is an issue. I'd like to understand that part better. If the delay is *not* a problem, then the choice between the ATP/GReddy assembly and an alternative that would have electrical actuation would then become a choice between features of two good solutions rather than a choice between a 'good' solution and a 'not good' one. 
Anyone with some technical insight (and something to back it up) care to contribute?


As far as debating whether or not it's better to vent atmosphericaly or internally--I'll leave up to someone else because I absolutely hate the blow off sound.
Nevertheless, I started this thread to mainly let you guys know that there is a solution to our damaged stock valves that works perfectly.
Whether you want to a have a "blow off" sound or not is a whole other topic.
To each his own.


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## OOOO-A3 (Jul 20, 2004)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (M3toGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *M3toGLI* »_
As far as debating whether or not it's better to vent atmosphericaly or internally--I'll leave up to someone else because I absolutely hate the blow off sound.
Nevertheless, I started this thread to mainly let you guys know that there is a solution to our damaged stock valves that works perfectly.
Whether you want to a have a "blow off" sound or not is a whole other topic.
To each his own.


What I posted there had nothing to do with recirculate vs. VTA. I'm all for recirculation. No venting of metered air for me. My questions are more about the effects of mechanical valves (like yours) vs. electrical ones (like the stock one, or the yet-to-be-released Forge one) with the 2.0T FSI engine.


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## CtGTi77 (Dec 7, 2006)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (OOOO-A3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OOOO-A3* »_
What I posted there had nothing to do with recirculate vs. VTA. I'm all for recirculation. No venting of metered air for me. My questions are more about the effects of mechanical valves (like yours) vs. electrical ones (like the stock one, or the yet-to-be-released Forge one) with the 2.0T FSI engine.


As was posted before. the lag cause be a fly-by-wire throttle is completely inconsequential because with a mechanical valve the second the throttle closes a vaccum is created which opens the valve and alleviates the pressure on the throttle plate. It makes no difference whether this process happens a short period after you actually lifted off the throttle (BTW, with a fly by wire we're talking about micro-seconds







).
Frankly, i give a big http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif to ATP for develping this adaptor, and an even bigger http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif to e-code tuning for packaging it in a low-cost plug and play kit. From a technical standpoint there is no possible problem that could occur from the use of this product.


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## gtboost (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (CtGTi77)*

where is the valve recirculated to?
can you post a pic?


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## OOOO-A3 (Jul 20, 2004)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (gtboost)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtboost* »_where is the valve recirculated to?
can you post a pic?








RTFT


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (gtboost)*

It diverts it the same exact way the stock valve does. The adapter shown above helps it do so.


_Modified by M3toGLI at 9:02 PM 1-22-2007_


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## jhtopilko (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (gtboost)*

look up.


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (OOOO-A3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OOOO-A3* »_







RTFT

I finally concluded what that Acronym meant.


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## OOOO-A3 (Jul 20, 2004)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (M3toGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *M3toGLI* »_
I finally concluded what that Acronym meant.









I had a related jpeg I was tempted to post, but I thought the better of it!


----------



## vRStu (Sep 11, 2006)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (M3toGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *M3toGLI* »_










I would say if you are getting graphs like that you have a poblem with your car. Here are some from this weekend -


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (vRStu)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vRStu* »_
I would say if you are getting graphs like that you have a poblem with your car. Here are some from this weekend - 


First of all, all dynos are different.
What kind of dyno did you use?
Second, If you take a close look the curves, your car is doing the same thing as mine. I can see the peaks and valleys in your hp and torque curves.


----------



## kdagher (May 27, 2006)

is this solution available online to buy ?
how do you get rid of the engine code cell ?


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: (hragsarkissian)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hragsarkissian* »_is this solution available online to buy ?
how do you get rid of the engine code cell ?

Yep, you can buy them here:
http://www.ecodetuning.com/sho...&c=14
They include a plug for the electronic cable to trick the ECU that it is still using the stock valve. There are absolutely no CELs that were thrown.
Mine is still working like a champ! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by M3toGLI at 7:06 PM 1-23-2007_


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## CtGTi77 (Dec 7, 2006)

*Re: (M3toGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *M3toGLI* »_They include a plug for the electronic cable to trick the ECU that it is still using the stock valve. There are absolutely no CELs that were thrown.
Mine is still working like a champ! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by M3toGLI at 7:06 PM 1-23-2007_

couldnt you just leave the DV plugged in and zip tie it to something sturdy and let that solenoid click away till it's hearts delight?? that's what i planned on doing


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: (CtGTi77)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CtGTi77* »_
couldnt you just leave the DV plugged in and zip tie it to something sturdy and let that solenoid click away till it's hearts delight?? that's what i planned on doing









You can do that if you want, but there's something about just leaving it hanging in the engine bay that bothers me.
You're right though. It will work.


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## NoMoreHonduh (Apr 24, 2006)

Just wondering, did you go with the GReddy or the knock off? I've read on some other forums that some of the higher quality knock offs are actually quite good, on par with the real ones.


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## Faerus (May 7, 2006)

*Re: (NoMoreHonduh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NoMoreHonduh* »_Just wondering, did you go with the GReddy or the knock off? I've read on some other forums that some of the higher quality knock offs are actually quite good, on par with the real ones.

As far as I know, the quality of the valve does not affect it's performance since this kit uses a block-off and the air is rerouted like a DV.


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: (NoMoreHonduh)*

I went with the standard valve. I saw the quality of the regular valve, and it didn't make sence to me to pay $120 more for the greddy.


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## Rub-ISH (Aug 8, 2006)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (jhtopilko)*

OP do you plan on doing a dyno anytime soon? HOw about some logs with Vag com?


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## OOOO-A3 (Jul 20, 2004)

*Re: (Faerus)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Faerus* »_
As far as I know, the quality of the valve does not affect it's performance since this kit uses a block-off and the air is rerouted like a DV.








Whether the air is rerouted or vented has nothing to do with the quality of the valve. If that were so, the 'quality' stock valves would be just fine. It's all how the diaphragm and springs work.


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## OOOO-A3 (Jul 20, 2004)

*Re: (M3toGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *M3toGLI* »_I went with the standard valve. *I saw the quality of the regular valve*, and it didn't make sense to me to pay $120 more for the greddy.

Not trying to be a pain, but how can you 'see' the quality of the diaphragm and spring? That's what's important, not how sturdy the case looks. While the generic valve you have may be fine, GReddy puts a lot of engineering effort into designing quality components.


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## blackvento36 (Mar 17, 2003)

*Re: (OOOO-A3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OOOO-A3* »_
Not trying to be a pain, but how can you 'see' the quality of the diaphragm and spring? That's what's important, not how sturdy the case looks. While the generic valve you have may be fine, GReddy puts a lot of engineering effort into designing quality components. 

And those fellas in Taiwan put alotta effort in copying them (sometimes). Even if the knock off is total garbage, it's not gonna make any difference until the diaphragm or spring in it fails. When that happens, the Greddy parts will probably be interchangeable, if they offer new diaphragms.


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: (OOOO-A3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OOOO-A3* »_
Not trying to be a pain, but how can you 'see' the quality of the diaphragm and spring? That's what's important, not how sturdy the case looks. While the generic valve you have may be fine, GReddy puts a lot of engineering effort into designing quality components. 


I played with it a bit and it seemed very sturdy. The craftsmanship did look nice, but you're right; I'm not a diverter valve specialist.
Note that things I say are a matter of opinion. 
Here's my opinion:
The valve that I got is working awesome.
My engine is running stronger and smoother than before.
I do work as an analyst in the world of metrology so I know that people rely on measurements and tolerances. I do understand that there is a difference between manufacturers that use different parts. But, in this situation, I couldn't find any justification to pay the extra money.


----------



## Captain Jack (Mar 2, 2002)

*Re: (M3toGLI)*

Just think, if companies who can actually design their own parts stop as a result of not being able to afford engineers salaries or just flat our frustration of losing sales, who will these knock off companies rip off their designs from? Thats one of my umpteen arguments of why people need to stay away from Ebay.


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## Faerus (May 7, 2006)

*Re: (OOOO-A3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OOOO-A3* »_
Not trying to be a pain, but how can you 'see' the quality of the diaphragm and spring? That's what's important, not how sturdy the case looks. While the generic valve you have may be fine, GReddy puts a lot of engineering effort into designing quality components. 


It still won't matter as it's blocked off.


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## jhtopilko (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (Captain Jack)*

OT A product is sold if thier is a market. If it is of sufficient quality that it continues to sell it is good enough.


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## blackvento36 (Mar 17, 2003)

*Re: (Captain Jack)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Captain Jack* »_Just think, if companies who can actually design their own parts stop as a result of not being able to afford engineers salaries or just flat our frustration of losing sales, who will these knock off companies rip off their designs from? Thats one of my umpteen arguments of why people need to stay away from Ebay. 
Yeah yeah yeah, and musicians will stop making records cuz everybody steals music off the internet.


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## OOOO-A3 (Jul 20, 2004)

*Re: (Faerus)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Faerus* »_
It still won't matter as it's blocked off.

You have no idea what you're talking about. Whether the air is vented or recycled has NOTHING to do with the holding ability of the diaphragm. *The valve still has to work the exact same way in both cases*, there's just a difference of where the air goes afterwards. The valve is NOT 'blocked off' from the turbo. The exit vent of the valve is sealed which allows it to recycle. This is a unique feature of the GReddy RS type valves. Other valves from other manufacturers wouldn't work the same way because they're different internally and can't do the recirculating thing.


----------



## Captain Jack (Mar 2, 2002)

*Re: (blackvento36)*


_Quote, originally posted by *blackvento36* »_Yeah yeah yeah, and musicians will stop making records cuz everybody steals music off the internet.

That isn't a proper comparison. Most record contracts have the vast majorities of the proceeds from record sales going back to the record company. The band makes their money on ticket sales and merchandising. From their its up to wise expense management and investing. In this scenario the only thing we have to worry about from downloading free music off the net is that record companies will stop making Cd's. This isn't a big deal because bands can now create their own MP3's, get them out on the web, and make their money through once again ticket sales and merchandise. They can also sell per download. 
Automotive part sales do not reflect this same model. From the start aftermarket parts touch a substantially smaller volume of people then music. How many people do you know who listen to the radio or Cd's? How many of those same people modify their cars? On the same coin the amount of people who know how to properly design parts based on engineering principles does not come close to the amount of people who can produce music in their homes. The results of proper design are staggeringly different, improper music production leads to a response of "this is garbage, turn it off" where as improperly designed parts can lead too a significantly more dire end result. 
I am all for providing value to customers, in fact it is the only way for a modern business to survive. However, cheap alternatives are there for a reason. They can be cheap because they are of poor quality, they can be cheap because the manufacturer does not have to incur the cost of developing the product as they copied someone elses, or my personal favorite, both. If people are willing to accept that the companies who staff engineers and actually have a passion for cars can just be ripped off as soon as a less scrupulous company obtains the product, then what motivation is their for any business minded individual to get involved in the automotive aftermarket industry? 
Part of the mission statement of both myself and my company is that we will lead while being lead ourselves. This is just my opinion based on both my engineering and business education background and also that I have grown up in the shop life. I would like to hear feedback on what I have said and your opinion on this. Its an important topic and the feelings of the community will dictate the way a lot of us go. 
-Phill


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## VWAUDITEK (Dec 26, 2006)

*Re: (Captain Jack)*

There is a lot of confusion going on here.........I have installed this ATP spacer before,and it simply turns that port into a BOV port.there is no recirculation due to the fact that once the BOV opens it alows air to escape thrue the open port.The inner "piston" does NOT "only let air re-circulate and not blow off".......that is a impossibilty.The reason the ATP adapter has 2 o-rings is because it BLOCKS OFF the re-circ area in the turbo compressor housing.........and allows venting thrue the new mechanical BOV.
Some of you are over complicating a simple device,and that is all a BOV is....(unless you are talking about the SSQ)it is a piston and diaphram that opens up under vacuum,and lets air ESCAPE thure the open port you see i the picture......there is no inner workings" that allow air to go "back" into the turbo.......








For some reason the Mk5 allows some air to escape and not throw a code......even the Forge spacer does this....


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## plutoR (Aug 24, 2006)

*Re: (VWAUDITEK)*

Huh ?
ATP swears that this completely recirc just as the oem dv .
So , y do they have the block off disc that goes into the vent horn ??Also , y do u push the valve in till it goes to recirc mode ?


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## OOOO-A3 (Jul 20, 2004)

*Re: (plutoR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *plutoR* »_Huh ?
ATP swears that this completely recirc just as the oem dv .
So , y do they have the block off disc that goes into the vent horn ??Also , y do u push the valve in till it goes to recirc mode ?


Yes, it recirculates BECAUSE you block off the vent horn. If you didn't block it off, it would VTA.
The old valve is removed from the turbo. The flange is attached to the turbo. Th valve is attached to the flange. Boost goes through the inner chamber of the mounting flange into the valve. The diaphragm, when closed, holds the pressurised air in. When the diaphragm opens, the air goes *somewhere*:
- if the 'horn' of the valve is NOT blocked, the air simply goes out (VTA).
- if you install the blocking disk inside the 'horn' of the valve, the air can't go out to atmosphere. Instead, it goes back down through the outer chamber of the mounting flange back to the turbo. The 'recirculating at the turbo' feature is just like the OE valve.
I don't understand where the confusion is coming from.


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## OOOO-A3 (Jul 20, 2004)

*Re: (VWAUDITEK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWAUDITEK* »_There is a lot of confusion going on here.........

Yes, and you're adding to it with wrong information. ATP makes several flanges. THIS ONE operates as has been discussed to death in this thread. Just read it again. What you're talking about is completely different, and everything you said is wrong with regards to this valve and flange setup.
http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
Edit: You're talking about this  and this. which are something completely different and irrelevant.



_Modified by OOOO-A3 at 3:47 PM 1-26-2007_


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## Rub-ISH (Aug 8, 2006)

*Re: (OOOO-A3)*

This thread is completly useless http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: (Rub-ISH)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Rub-ISH* »_This thread is completly useless http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 

That's becuase people are going off topic.
This thread is about Eurocode's solution to the crappy stock dv valve.
My main objective was to start this thread to let people know about the dv fix. Then people started debating about blow off valves and dv valves.


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## VWAUDITEK (Dec 26, 2006)

*Re: (M3toGLI)*

Where in the pic is the BOV port "blocked"?Please point it out,because I missed that part.I see a Greddy copy BOV vented to atmosphere.........can you hear the BOV?Is it loud?If you can hear it,and it is loud,it is more than likely venting to atmosphere....


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: (VWAUDITEK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWAUDITEK* »_Where in the pic is the BOV port "blocked"?Please point it out,because I missed that part.I see a Greddy copy BOV vented to atmosphere.........can you hear the BOV?Is it loud?If you can hear it,and it is loud,it is more than likely venting to atmosphere.... 

Sigh,,
It is not blowing into the atmosphere.
It is not loud.
I cannot even here it.
I do not like green eggs and ham.
That silver port that looks like it's open is blocked off from the inside.
I can't reach to get a picture of the inside or I would take one.


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## Kid Hobo (Sep 4, 2005)

*Re: (M3toGLI)*

I'm just glad to hear you haven't thrown a CEL and it works well.








OP, are you planning on ever going BT?


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## OOOO-A3 (Jul 20, 2004)

*Re: (VWAUDITEK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWAUDITEK* »_Where in the pic is the BOV port "blocked"?Please point it out,because I missed that part.

You missed a lot of parts. Re-read all of the thread again and try to understand how the flange works. Then read this link
Or at least look at the pretty picture below:








You unscrew the 'horn', put that disk in, then screw the horn back on. No VTA. 


_Modified by OOOO-A3 at 10:58 AM 1-27-2007_


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## VWAUDITEK (Dec 26, 2006)

*Re: (OOOO-A3)*

Ah-ha!Sorry,my bad,I have never seen that.seems ATP has quite a few different "solutions".this is a new one for me.


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## 2.0wnedyou (Nov 13, 2003)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (M3toGLI)*

so has anyone bought this set up yet with the greddy type rs BOV? how does it run and how does the BOV sound?


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## Faerus (May 7, 2006)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (2.0wnedyou)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2.0wnedyou* »_so has anyone bought this set up yet with the greddy type rs BOV? how does it run and how does the BOV sound?








The BOV is blocked off therefore it does not vent to the atmosphere and creates a sound similar to our stock DV.


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## Franky 4 Fingers (Mar 27, 2002)

I just ordered this DV kit. I was waiting to see what Forge came up with, but after blowing my second DV, I needed to do something asap. I am not going to waste another $60 on another VW B or C DV.


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: (Franky 4 Fingers)*

Just thought I would chime in again and let you guys know that everything is still running smooth with this valve. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I'm so glad I don't have to worry about that rubber diaphragm blowing again.


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## plutoR (Aug 24, 2006)

*Re: (M3toGLI)*

how does the throttle feel , also , are you feeling any jerks ect when coming off the throttle ?? Like the valve is actuating late ??
I am just concerned about a post some time back regarding the late actuation of the valve when compared to the electronic throttle plate .


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: (plutoR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *plutoR* »_how does the throttle feel , also , are you feeling any jerks ect when coming off the throttle ?? Like the valve is actuating late ??
I am just concerned about a post some time back regarding the late actuation of the valve when compared to the electronic throttle plate . 

I don't feel any jerkiness.
This valve is pre-set by eurocode. They've done plenty of testing on this to make it function the best possible way for our engines. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## DimceR32 (Jul 28, 2005)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (Faerus)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Faerus* »_







The BOV is blocked off therefore it does not vent to the atmosphere and creates a sound similar to our stock DV.


Easy Killer....Im sure theres a few running it in BOV mode....no need to jump on the guy for asking that...
Anywho!
After re-reading this thread agian....and getting confused...im going to ask this agian....the OEM DV!!!! what is causeing it to "Open And Close" back and forth to give you a crazy looking line on ur dyno....

Is it! The spring? Or is it the actual ECU Opening the Valve and closeing it back and fort because its seeing tooo much boost when ur ecu has been reflashed?
So is it the spring in the OEM dv that cant handle the higher boost, or is it just the ecu doing what it should if it see's your car "over boost"


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## blackvento36 (Mar 17, 2003)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (DimceR32)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DimceR32* »_
So is it the spring in the OEM dv that cant handle the higher boost, or is it just the ecu doing what it should if it see's your car "over boost"

It could be the spring. Or it could be the ECU trying to close the DV, but if the DV has a torn diaphragm and leaking boost, it may be the ECU trying to close the wastegate to make the lost boost back. And those two just fight back and forth until the turbo hits it's limit and they both close up.


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## Faerus (May 7, 2006)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (DimceR32)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DimceR32* »_

Easy Killer....Im sure theres a few running it in BOV mode....no need to jump on the guy for asking that...
Anywho!
After re-reading this thread agian....and getting confused...im going to ask this agian....the OEM DV!!!! what is causeing it to "Open And Close" back and forth to give you a crazy looking line on ur dyno....

Is it! The spring? Or is it the actual ECU Opening the Valve and closeing it back and fort because its seeing tooo much boost when ur ecu has been reflashed?
So is it the spring in the OEM dv that cant handle the higher boost, or is it just the ecu doing what it should if it see's your car "over boost"


There may be a few running in BOV mode, but they will be stalling their car. Also, I responded that way due to that question being answered at least 5 times in the thread if the poster had simply read it.
I went ahead and bought this kit as I could not wait for Forge's solution any longer and I am extremely pleased with it. It pulls very hard and there is no jerkiness. You do hear the turbo a lot more (mainly just backpeddling when letting off the gas for a split second) due to the BOV being metal, but I like it. It's not annoying like the Forge DV Spacer or anything. Also, the kit they put together makes it all very simple to do and they give you plenty of tubing to run. Bolts are bitch to get off since two of mine of the stock DV had locktight on them. Other than hard to reach bolts and limited space when jacking the car up, the install is quite easy and definitely worth the time and money!


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (Faerus)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Faerus* »_
I went ahead and bought this kit as I could not wait for Forge's solution any longer and I am extremely pleased with it. It pulls very hard and there is no jerkiness. You do hear the turbo a lot more (mainly just backpeddling when letting off the gas for a split second) due to the BOV being metal, but I like it. It's not annoying like the Forge DV Spacer or anything. Also, the kit they put together makes it all very simple to do and they give you plenty of tubing to run. Bolts are bitch to get off since two of mine of the stock DV had locktight on them. Other than hard to reach bolts and limited space when jacking the car up, the install is quite easy and definitely worth the time and money!

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I'm telling you guys, this is the answer to the blown valves with a smooth throttle response!


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## ed j (Mar 11, 2003)

Humm, I live in Canada and would like to try this but when I went to Eurocode site. It only had UPS as a shipping courier and shipping came out to $160usd.
I think that's way, too much.


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: (ed j)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ed j* »_Humm, I live in Canada and would like to try this but when I went to Eurocode site. It only had UPS as a shipping courier and shipping came out to $160usd.
I think that's way, too much.

Give them a call and maybe something can be done about the shipping. It's worth a try.


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## DSturbo (Dec 27, 2005)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (im_a_local)*

actually the fsi diverter is not a solenoid, it's an electromagnet. it requires 3psi or greater to pop the valve shut, at which time juice is sent to the valve (magnet) and holds the piston open until it recieves signal from the ecu to let go. the ecu cannot open the valve whenever it wants, or whenever you lift off, it relies on that 3psi or greater to blow it open at which time the magnet pole will hold it until voltage at the solenoid is no longer present. we have been using a re-route along with an inexpensive,(and ultra fast acting) bosch 710n diverter valve.(oem 1.8t) we have found this modification to greatly improve throttle resonse, boost response, driveability, surge protection, and reliability. no check engine lights, logs clean. costs about $150 complete and does not vent to atmosphere.


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## EurodealerTX (Oct 16, 2006)

Jesus there is a lot of crap-arguing to sort through on this thread!!!
All I want to know is...how will/can I retain the current whoosh sound of my Forge spacer if I install this kit? Everyone has their own preference. I love my Forge BOV.
Anyone know? Hell, scratch that all together. What is Eurocode's #?!


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## OOOO-A3 (Jul 20, 2004)

*Re: (EurodealerTX)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EurodealerTX* »_Jesus there is a lot of crap-arguing to sort through on this thread!!!
All I want to know is...how will/can I retain the current whoosh sound of my Forge spacer if I install this kit? Everyone has their own preference. I love my Forge *noise spacer*.
Anyone know?

The benefit of this kit is that it recirculates like it's supposed to. If you prefer sound over function, just don't install the little disk in the outlet of the GReddy valve, and it'll vent to atmosphere rather than recirculating. It's your funeral, do what you like.


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (EurodealerTX)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EurodealerTX* »_All I want to know is...how will/can I retain the current whoosh sound of my Forge spacer if I install this kit? Everyone has their own preference. I love my Forge BOV.


Wait a week or two and get Forge's solution. Designed to fit the OEM flange, no clumsy adapters. And the Forge unit can be used in conjunction with their BOV spacer easily w/o any issues http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: (digitalhippie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *digitalhippie* »_

Wait a week or two and get Forge's solution. Designed to fit the OEM flange, no clumsy adapters. And the Forge unit can be used in conjunction with their BOV spacer easily w/o any issues http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I will say that it is going to be interesting to see the final product and when it will actually be available.
As far as the adapter being clumsy--Where did you come up with that?
Do you have experience with this adapter being clumsy? Mine is very rigid and fits perfectly.


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (M3toGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *M3toGLI* »_As far as the adapter being clumsy--Where did you come up with that?
Do you have experience with this adapter being clumsy? Mine is very rigid and fits perfectly.

I do have experience with the adapter. I used clumsy to describe the fact that...
a) its kludge (any adapter to fit a part not designed for the car is a kludge)
b) the adapter + greddy is fairly tall, making it trickier to work around when installing
c) the adapter adds 4 new seals to the equation, each seal is an o-ring, and we all know o-rings get old and fail, so you've added 4 new points of failure to the sytem

Any part that is engineered for the application is going to be less "clumsy" than something kludged together to fit.

Just my $0.02


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: (digitalhippie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *digitalhippie* »_
I do have experience with the adapter. I used clumsy to describe the fact that...
a) its kludge (any adapter to fit a part not designed for the car is a kludge)
b) the adapter + greddy is fairly tall, making it trickier to work around when installing
c) the adapter adds 4 new seals to the equation, each seal is an o-ring, and we all know o-rings get old and fail, so you've added 4 new points of failure to the sytem

Any part that is engineered for the application is going to be less "clumsy" than something kludged together to fit.

Just my $0.02

a) Since we are talking about the adapter then yes, it is specifically meant for our cars. Nothing "kludge" about it
b) No issues with the installation here. Fairly easy. But yes there is a whopping 2 more screws involved.
c) Understand your point of concern, but I wonder how many people had issues with the Forge spacer. Plenty of added O rings there, and Forge wouldn't make it if it weren't the best right? (sorry, but i had to throw in some sarcasm







)


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (M3toGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *M3toGLI* »_a) Since we are talking about the adapter then yes, it is specifically meant for our cars. Nothing "kludge" about it
b) No issues with the installation here. Fairly easy. But yes there is a whopping 2 more screws involved.
c) Understand your point of concern, but I wonder how many people had issues with the Forge spacer. Plenty of added O rings there, and Forge wouldn't make it if it weren't the best right? (sorry, but i had to throw in some sarcasm







)


a) no, the adapter IS the kludge to allow a greddy rs style (which, by its name alone, was not designed for the GTI) bov to be used
b) that's fine, but can you fit a BOV spacer in there still?
c) I would describe the forge spacer as clumsy also, for 2 of 3 of the same reasons... there's a reason I don't use it on my car
Keep the sarcasm to yourself, no fanboi here


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## Rub-ISH (Aug 8, 2006)

*Re: (digitalhippie)*

Perfect Example of what I was talking about in the forge Thread
Quote, originally posted by Rub-ISH »
P.S. please dont black-hole this thread with "a certain Southern Cali Shop funboi mentality"


----------



## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: (digitalhippie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *digitalhippie* »_

a) no, the adapter IS the kludge to allow a greddy rs style (which, by its name alone, was not designed for the GTI) bov to be used
b) that's fine, but can you fit a BOV spacer in there still?
c) I would describe the forge spacer as clumsy also, for 2 of 3 of the same reasons... there's a reason I don't use it on my car
Keep the sarcasm to yourself, no fanboi here









a) You said that it's kludge if it isn't specifically made for our engines. The adapter IS specifically made for our engines, period. The valve-I will agree with you, but the adapter IS.
b) Who cares about a BOV spacer? why would you want a BOV spacer on a plugged up BOV? If you want that then unplug it.
c) Me too. I hate that sound!
I still don't understand the fanboi stuff. As far as sarcasm, no sense of humor?


----------



## Rub-ISH (Aug 8, 2006)

*Re: (M3toGLI)*

well since i honestly don't think that you know about the Fanboi stuff i'll explain it...
Sometimes people get so wrapped up in being one of the first to try a new product that they become overzealous and preachy about how great the solution is over another. 
I know the dangers of this because I have done it in the past with a " certain southern cali shop's" Revo GTRS big turbo setup for the B6 A4. This particular shop slapped together a kit with components from another company, with very little R&D and no custom fabrication, and made a killing claiming that this setup was solid and there would be no adverse effects. 
Well 2 bent rods, a blown turbo, And two cracked exhaust manifolds later I decided that that Certain shop in L.A. was not reliable for developing new products because they take other companys stuff and package it as their own solution. This coupled with the fact that they jumped from software tuner band wagons between revo/Apr. The customer service also leaves something to be desired, it all went down hill after Eli mysteriously left...
Please don't fall prey to believing that this shop has anything other than money in mind...when they race to market with a hacked up solution...of which they developed none of the components










_Modified by Rub-ISH at 1:21 PM 2-15-2007_


----------



## iThread (Sep 27, 2005)




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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: (Rub-ISH)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Rub-ISH* »_well since i honestly don't think that you know about the Fanboi stuff i'll explain it...
Sometimes people get so wrapped up in being one of the first to try a new product that they become overzealous and preachy about how great the solution is over another. 
I know the dangers of this because I have done it in the past with a " certain southern cali shop's" Revo GTRS big turbo setup for the B6 A4. This particular shop slapped together a kit with components from another company, with very little R&D and no custom fabrication, and made a killing claiming that this setup was solid and there would be no adverse effects. 
Well 2 bent rods, a blown turbo, And two cracked exhaust manifolds later I decided that that Certain shop in L.A. was not reliable for developing new products because they take other companys stuff and package it as their own solution. This coupled with the fact that they jumped from software tuner band wagons between revo/Apr. The customer service also leaves something to be desired, it all went down hill after Eli mysteriously left...
Please don't fall prey to believing that this shop has anything other than money in mind...when they race to market with a hacked up solution...of which they developed none of the components









_Modified by Rub-ISH at 1:21 PM 2-15-2007_

Well, thanks for explaining your situation.
I'm just happy that everything is working out great for me. This thread was solely intended to provide my experience. That's it. This is my hobby and testing things out is a fun thing for me. Going to the track and testing things out there is fun, so yes if you look at the dynos that I've done with different setups came from my pwn pocket. The write ups that I've done on this forum (DV, SPEC clutch/flywheel, LSD, etc) were intended to provide info.
Unfortunately, i have to deal with the frustrations of people stating that this is a faulty setup but Forge is coming out with the correct approach.
My setup has been running perfectly smooth since the moment I've been running it. Will Forge be better? Who knows? I just still don't know why people are still complaining about the OEM DV while waiting for Forge's hwen there is a fix already out there. But, to each his own.
I'm going to the track tonight and I'm just pleased to say that the last thing on my mind is blowing my DV. I'll post my results, and I'm sure I'll get knocked around for that too.


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## Rub-ISH (Aug 8, 2006)

I am happy that you have been having success tuning, and I appreciate that you have been so forth coming with you mods and write ups, that is what makes for an informative forum. 
However don't slight something because you have found a solution, its not for everyone...
Just as some people can wait Forge to make a product that they approve of, others can purchase the e-code solution. 
In the end its all rerouting boost


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## axthomson (Jul 8, 2006)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (DSturbo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DSturbo* »_actually the fsi diverter is not a solenoid, it's an electromagnet. 

a solenoid is and electromagnet.. or a series of them.
olenoid
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Jump to: navigation, search
This article is about the coil of wire. For the mathematical topological group, see Solenoid (mathematics).
Magnetic field created by a solenoid
Magnetic field created by a solenoid
A ’’’solenoid’’’ is a 3-dimensional shape where a coil is wrapped around a central object.
In physics, is a loop of wire, often wrapped around a metallic core, which produces a magnetic field when an electrical current is passed through it. Solenoids are important because they can create controlled magnetic fields and can be used as electromagnets. The term solenoid refers specifically to a magnet designed to produce a uniform magnetic field in a volume of space (where some experiment might be carried out).
In engineering, the term solenoid may also refer to a variety of transducer devices that convert energy into linear motion. The term is also often used to refer to a solenoid valve, which is an integrated device containing an electromechanical solenoid which actuates either a pneumatic or hydraulic valve, or a solenoid switch, which is a specific type of relay that internally uses an electromechanical solenoid to operate an electrical switch; for example, an automobile starter solenoid, or a linear solenoid, which is an electromechanical solenoid.


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## OOOO-A3 (Jul 20, 2004)

*Re: (Rub-ISH)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Rub-ISH* »_Sometimes people get so wrapped up in being one of the first to try a new product that they become overzealous and preachy about how great the solution is over another.

Well said. I'm a proponent of the upcoming Forge solution. Its operation is quite different from the ATP flange + GReddy valve solution, and it will be a piston valve (which Forge does well) rather than a diaphragm (like the GReddy). But as much as I favour the Forge valve, I'm not trashing the GReddy/ATP combo since it is *A* reasonable solution, if not *THE* best solution. The Forge one... until it's actually released it's made of 'unobtainium'







and the GReddy/ATP combo is available for those who need an immediate fix for a blown DV.
The ATP/GReddy combo does probably 95% of what the Forge one will do (this is strictly my wild-ass assessment, not quantitative). Once it's released, people will have to consider price, features, personal preference, etc. in deciding between the two solutions. At that point I believe that there will be no compelling argument for the ATP/GReddy solution over the Forge one. Not that it's bad, it's just going to be No. 2. 
For M3toGLI... Glad it's working out well for you. When the Forge valve is released, you may look at it and consider whether the additional features will be worth you changing or not. I'm thinking that since you've already sunk some $$$ into what you have, it won't be worth it for you to change.








Edit: typo


_Modified by OOOO-A3 at 11:52 PM 2-15-2007_


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## dubbkidd (Mar 10, 2006)

*Re: (OOOO-A3)*

how would the ecu react when it is suppose to be releasing the boost, but the boost remains in the system? would this set up make it nessecary for the car to be drive around with traction off..lets say we were to be spinning the tires a lot?.....if that makes sense


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: (dubbkidd)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubbkidd* »_how would the ecu react when it is suppose to be releasing the boost, but the boost remains in the system? would this set up make it nessecary for the car to be drive around with traction off..lets say we were to be spinning the tires a lot?.....if that makes sense

Traction control works perfectly fine. You are correct about the ecu controling the valve durring slipage, but I like my setup much better than the stock traction control becuase now when the traction control gets activated it doesn't feel like someone is slamming on my brakes.
The way I have it now is more of a better feeling in my opinion. Again, my opinion.


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## DSturbo (Dec 27, 2005)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (axthomson)*

you can quote the definition, as if it somehow discredits what i'm saying







the facts still remain. you have provided a definition, but no input on the topic at hand. the fact is that it cannot pull in the valve on its own. the piston is simply outside the magnetic field. it relies on that push of boost to assist it. this is how it differs from other solenoids on our engines. if you disagree; take one apart, apply voltage and see what happens


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## 20th-Hole (Feb 3, 2005)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (DSturbo)*

The electronic DV IS a solenoid valve. When the DV is installed the spring is partially compressed which puts the piston within the magnetic field. 
Also if you look closely you will see holes at the top of the piston. These allow the pressure to equalize on either side. Therefore there is no positive pressure helping it to open

_Quote, originally posted by *DSturbo* »_if you disagree; take one apart, apply voltage and see what happens









If you compress the piston to the installed position and apply voltage it will fully engage. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
How exactly did you arrive at your 3psi number?


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: *The Eurocode Diverter Valve Experience* (20th-Hole)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20th-Hole* »_The electronic DV IS a solenoid valve. When the DV is installed the spring is partially compressed which puts the piston within the magnetic field. 
Also if you look closely you will see holes at the top of the piston. These allow the pressure to equalize on either side. Therefore there is no positive pressure helping it to open
If you compress the piston to the installed position and apply voltage it will fully engage. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


Thanks for saying it, so I didn't have to http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## MARIOFROMNEWYORK (Dec 6, 2005)

I am looking at the eurocode dv valve kit for my 2006 2.0t passat, I am not chipped or have any engine mods. I would like to add that between my 10k and 20k service I had to add 2 quarts, no oil on ground that i have found may I also have to due the pcv fix Any help would be great!!


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: (MARIOFROMNEWYORK)*

Hey guys.
A couple people have IMd me about the valve to see if it's still performing well so I thought I'd just post up to say that I couldn't be happier.
The smoothness is still there, and I haven't lost any boost through out my driving experience. I'm peeking at 21-22 psi.
Also, I've gotten a couple of questions about the esp. I believe that this has been mentioned before, but my esp still works fine. 
The OEM DV valve is one of the things that the ESP controls when loss of traction--not the only thing. The ESP also controls the throttle, fuel and brake system. 
Last week I went to Irwindale Speedway. In my second run to warm my drag radials, I forgot to turn the traction control off, so when my tires started to spin the ESP kicked in and shut off the fuel/applied the brakes/etc, so I had to reburn the tires after turning the ESP off.
ESP works perfectly fine with this kit. I've personally experienced it. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 



_Modified by M3toGLI at 7:29 PM 2-24-2007_


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## rysskii3 (Apr 19, 2006)

thanx for the update


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## VWturbo2Ltr (Aug 4, 2001)

*Re: (rysskii3)*

another update????
also i am not so concerned that the esp works on dry pavement with sticky drag radials so much as the assistance on a more slick surface such as in the wet or snow


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: (VWturbo2Ltr)*

It still works perfectly!
I don't know why everyone's waiting for something else.


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## Franky 4 Fingers (Mar 27, 2002)

*Re: (VWturbo2Ltr)*

I put the Eurocode DV on my car back in late January, and driven through quite a fes inches of snow and ice. Thrre traction control seemed to work just the same as stock. I've put roughly 5,000 miles on my car since installing the DV driving from St. Louis to Chicago and I have not had a single problem with the kit. I was going to wait for the Forge kit, but after blowing 2 DV's I had to move on, I am interested in seeing what Forge comes up with.


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## rysskii3 (Apr 19, 2006)

i had mine now for about a 1000 miles and no problmes either


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## CtGTi77 (Dec 7, 2006)

*Re: (rysskii3)*

Buckwheat says ecode's BOV is OOOOOOOO.....TAY








http://www.ferris.edu/jimcrow/*********/taxi.jpg 
5K+ on mine with not a problem


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## NoMoreHonduh (Apr 24, 2006)

yep, same here. Me and Craig were both talking about wtf everyone else is waiting for. I have probably 4,000 of the hardest miles on the ecode dv, and its still 100%.


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: (NoMoreHonduh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NoMoreHonduh* »_yep, same here. Me and Craig were both talking about wtf everyone else is waiting for. I have probably 4,000 of the hardest miles on the ecode dv, and its still 100%.

Hey did you get my pm about the drag radials?


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## Faerus (May 7, 2006)

Yeah, mine is still working perfectly. It's nice to keep boost, I just want a final fix for the PCV valve.


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## VWturbo2Ltr (Aug 4, 2001)

*Re: (Faerus)*

I thought VW has a high boost pcv valve out now i think it runs about 140 bucks............. correct me if i am wrong


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## Franky 4 Fingers (Mar 27, 2002)

*Re: (VWturbo2Ltr)*

The PCV and the DV are two different things.


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## VWturbo2Ltr (Aug 4, 2001)

*Re: (Franky 4 Fingers)*

yes i know this......... you have to read the whole post to figure out that i am answering somone elses question


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: (VWturbo2Ltr)*

I just sold my valve to another member since I'm parting out the car and now I'm driving around in stock mode since I'm scared I'll blow the stock dv. There's nothing like being comfortable about punching it and not ruining anything.
I'm curious about how may people are still waiting for the Forge setup. I'm sure it will be a great product, but it would have killed me to keep waiting for a product when there was already a superb DV setup out there.


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## OOOO-A3 (Jul 20, 2004)

*Re: (M3toGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *M3toGLI* »_It still works perfectly!
I don't know why everyone's waiting for something else.









Because piston > diaphragm. Once the 'something else' comes out, you'll see the difference.


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: (OOOO-A3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OOOO-A3* »_
Because piston > diaphragm. Once the 'something else' comes out, you'll see the difference. 

How many stock DVs have you gone through while waiting?
Remember this?
"We'll have a huge update soon, I promise. 
We have final pre-production units being sent out to a few dealers to be installed on various project cars and such. Independent write-ups and reviews will follow shortly thereafter with full details on everything."
What's Mike's definition of soon? This statement was made almost a month ago (3-23-07). Like I keep saying, waiting for this new product is such a waste of time IMO, since there's already a solution. The price better be damn good.


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## OOOO-A3 (Jul 20, 2004)

*Re: (M3toGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *M3toGLI* »_How many stock DVs have you gone through while waiting?

None, knock wood.


_Quote, originally posted by *M3toGLI* »_Remember this?
[...]

Remember this?

_Quote, originally posted by *OOOO-A3* »_I'm a proponent of the upcoming Forge solution. Its operation is quite different from the ATP flange + GReddy valve solution, and it will be a piston valve (which Forge does well) rather than a diaphragm (like the GReddy). But as much as I favour the Forge valve, I'm not trashing the GReddy/ATP combo since it is *A* reasonable solution, if not *THE* best solution. The Forge one... until it's actually released it's made of 'unobtainium'







and the GReddy/ATP combo is available for those who need an immediate fix for a blown DV.
The ATP/GReddy combo does probably 95% of what the Forge one will do (this is strictly my wild-ass assessment, not quantitative). Once it's released, people will have to consider price, features, personal preference, etc. in deciding between the two solutions. At that point I believe that there will be no compelling argument for the ATP/GReddy solution over the Forge one. Not that it's bad, it's just going to be No. 2.

I *do* know that from working on many types of projects before, things crop up (whether they be issues with the project or other business issues that distract from it) and the best intentions don't always work out on the planned timeline. Forge doesn't owe you, me, or anyone else an explanation of what their internal goings-on are, and they've been generous with information. I agree that it's frustrating as hell that their solution is not available YET, but it's far more frustrating that they haven't released information and un-embargoed discussion by those who know what it's like. If we could just look at photos/diagrams and discuss the relative merits of the designs it would be more productive.
To reiterate what I've said above, and before: The ATP/GReddy solution is an acceptable solution if someone needs to address failing valves; it's not like there's no available alternative to the stock valve. The Forge one will be BETTER, in quantifiable ways. I can't say more. Since you *don't* know *how* the Forge one compares, you can't legitimately dismiss it, other than on the grounds that it's not immediately available like the ATP/GReddy one is.


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: (OOOO-A3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OOOO-A3* »_
To reiterate what I've said above, and before: The ATP/GReddy solution is an acceptable solution if someone needs to address failing valves; it's not like there's no available alternative to the stock valve. The Forge one will be BETTER, in quantifiable ways. I can't say more. Since you *don't* know *how* the Forge one compares, you can't legitimately dismiss it, other than on the grounds that it's not immediately available like the ATP/GReddy one is.









Understand and agree. Even though it's not my problem, it's very frustrating for me to see posts with people waiting and waiting for something that they *don't* know too much about it or *how* much it's going to cost. I do think we understand each other's points though.


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## Franky 4 Fingers (Mar 27, 2002)

*Re: (M3toGLI)*

I think people would rather wait and make sure it works correctly than buy the Forge DV and it have some problems and have to send it back. Forge is a great company, as you said though, I could not wait and purchased the Eurocode one.


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## dalasdhn (Nov 14, 2001)

have you all had any problems with the traction control with all the mileage logged? especially those who have driven in the snow or lots of rain!


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: (dalasdhn)*

I never had problems with the traction control--EVER!
Traction control works perfectly fine!!!


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: (M3toGLI)*

I had a Greddy RS valve on my TT. Several TT owners have had them as well - some have had good results - others were inconsistent in terms of holding boost and others had bad diaphrams and replacements were not easy to get through Greddy. 
Mine wouldn't hold boost and set up was a PITA because spring tension is inconsistent. Streetwerke also dumped using the Greddy RS in their R32 turbo kits because of all those they tested the majority of them leaked. Couldn't wait to get rid of mine. I'd suggest a different DV when using this kit other than the Greddy RS.
I'm currently running a Forge RS and it holds boost so much better and was a piece of cake to set up.


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## CtGTi77 (Dec 7, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Mine wouldn't hold boost and set up was a PITA because spring tension is inconsistent. Streetwerke also dumped using the Greddy RS in their R32 turbo kits because of all those they tested the majority of them leaked. Couldn't wait to get rid of mine. I'd suggest a different DV when using this kit other than the Greddy RS.


eurocode sends you a valve that is pre-adjusted for the 2.0fsi. no tuning needed


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## dalasdhn (Nov 14, 2001)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
I'm currently running a Forge RS and it holds boost so much better and was a piece of cake to set up. 


is this what your talking about?








I am sure some setup and configuration is need for this to work properly on the 2.0t FSI engines???


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: (CtGTi77)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CtGTi77* »_
eurocode sends you a valve that is pre-adjusted for the 2.0fsi. no tuning needed

Interesting because all cars are tuned differently and all cars respond differently to different mods. No way one setting works for all.


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: (dalasdhn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dalasdhn* »_
is this what your talking about?








I am sure some setup and configuration is need for this to work properly on the 2.0t FSI engines???









I'm not suggesting using the Forge RS on a 2.0T - simply that it worked better for me than the Greddy RS.


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## tuddy (Jun 20, 2006)

I wonder if it would be possible instead of using the BOV using a mechanical DV like the 007 or something.


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## OOOO-A3 (Jul 20, 2004)

*Re: (tuddy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tuddy* »_I wonder if it would be possible instead of using the BOV using a mechanical DV like the 007 or something.

They're making one specifically for the 2.0T. Should be available RSN.


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## tuddy (Jun 20, 2006)

*Re: (OOOO-A3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OOOO-A3* »_They're making one specifically for the 2.0T. Should be available RSN.

yea, but no 007 sounding noise


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## x9t (Sep 19, 2005)

I have had my Eurocode DV installed for a week now.. car feels great and no issues.. CEL is gone( i blew my stock DV) 
joe, your right that all cars are tuned different and no mod works the same for all cars.. then why keep the stock DV that was never meant for chipped 2.0T? Also, how will forge make a DV that will fit all our 2.0T... with either 91oct or 93oct tuning.. or 3 or 2.5 turbo backs.. i mean there so many different combinations.. at least this DV will hold the extra boost.
JT


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: (x9t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *x9t* »_I have had my Eurocode DV installed for a week now.. car feels great and no issues.. CEL is gone( i blew my stock DV) 
joe, your right that all cars are tuned different and no mod works the same for all cars.. then why keep the stock DV that was never meant for chipped 2.0T? 

Fix it when it breaks - i've had mine chipped for 2 years and DV's fine. When it goes i'll make a decision to go with a stock "C" or another alternative. I simply won't put another GReddy RS in any car I own. 

_Quote »_Also, how will forge make a DV that will fit all our 2.0T... with either 91oct or 93oct tuning.. or 3 or 2.5 turbo backs.. i mean there so many different combinations.. at least this DV will hold the extra boost.

In my experience and that of many others, the Greddy RS doesn't hold boost well. That's all I'm saying.


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## M3toGLI (Apr 17, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Fix it when it breaks - i've had mine chipped for 2 years and DV's fine. When it goes i'll make a decision to go with a stock "C" or another alternative. I simply won't put another GReddy RS in any car I own. 
In my experience and that of many others, the Greddy RS doesn't hold boost well. That's all I'm saying.


Interesting. The whole time I ran it, it worked perfectly fine and held boost better than ever. If you haven't tried a mechanical DV on a 2.0T then how can you even compare?
It sounds to me that when your stock valve blows then you will start wasting your money with the stock "C" valves like I did. C valves are an absolute waste of money. I purchased the C before my B valve broke and blew the C valve 2 months after it was installed.


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: (M3toGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *M3toGLI* »_
Interesting. The whole time I ran it, it worked perfectly fine and held boost better than ever. If you haven't tried a mechanical DV on a 2.0T then how can you even compare?

While that may be true - a leaking valve is a leaking valve - it will leak when pressure is put through it regardless of the source. 

_Quote »_It sounds to me that when your stock valve blows then you will start wasting your money with the stock "C" valves like I did. C valves are an absolute waste of money. I purchased the C before my B valve broke and blew the C valve 2 months after it was installed.

I stated quite clearly that i'll go with a stock "C" or OTHER alternative - but i'll cross that path when I come to it. I know it won't be a Greddy RS.
Although this is a Greddy S - diaphrams are the same/similar. They form micro tears that you can't see as well - but are visible when you shine a light source through them.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2543090


_Modified by [email protected] at 8:50 AM 5-1-2007_


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## x9t (Sep 19, 2005)

joe, i drive my car pretty hard... so if this Valve is going to fail.. i should be the first. If it does fail, hopefully forge will have something by then. But as of now, i will take my chances with this than any Stock DV .. i was only chipped 2k miles before my stock blew.. i have a 07 passat so it should have the latest DV.. 
I dont know.. time will tell.
JT


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (x9t)*

I hate to say it guys.... but you should VAG-COM your cars.
I bet at least 90% of you have an error code stored (and multiple instances of it). This error code actually indicates the ecode setup IS NOT functioning properly. Its caused by the valve not venting boost completely. How many of you notice the fluttering noise (more noticable if you have aftermarket intake)?
You know, ecode claims to have extensively tested their kit and done lots of R&D... and their marketing claims "no codes", but its a lie.
http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif for poor product development
This is why I argued so strongly against the kit. Just because it "feels" normal to the average driver and their butt dyno doesn't mean it is functioning 100% properly. You need logs and actual research to prove your product works as you claim...


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## NoRegrets78 (Jul 6, 2006)

*Re: (digitalhippie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *digitalhippie* »_I hate to say it guys.... but you should VAG-COM your cars.
I bet at least 90% of you have an error code stored (and multiple instances of it). This error code actually indicates the ecode setup IS NOT functioning properly. Its caused by the valve not venting boost completely. How many of you notice the fluttering noise (more noticable if you have aftermarket intake)?
You know, ecode claims to have extensively tested their kit and done lots of R&D... and their marketing claims "no codes", but its a lie.
http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif for poor product development
This is why I argued so strongly against the kit. Just because it "feels" normal to the average driver and their butt dyno doesn't mean it is functioning 100% properly. You need logs and actual research to prove your product works as you claim...

I know a lot of people that are waiting for forge because they didn't trust the ecode...their concerns are warranted...just have to wait and see what comes out.


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## dalasdhn (Nov 14, 2001)

*Re: (digitalhippie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *digitalhippie* »_ How many of you notice the fluttering noise (more noticable if you have aftermarket intake)?

My car does that with the stock DV...does that mean its busted?


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (dalasdhn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dalasdhn* »_
My car does that with the stock DV...does that mean its busted? 

The stock DV spring is flimsy and tends to oscillate... but when it flutters it still allows all the boost to vent. The greddy setup does not allow boost to vent completely.


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: (digitalhippie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *digitalhippie* »_
The stock DV spring is flimsy and tends to oscillate... but when it flutters it still allows all the boost to vent. The greddy setup does not allow boost to vent completely.

Which was one of the other problems I had with the GReddy. It is related to spring tension regulated by the screw on the top. You tighten it to little and it doesn't hold boost, too much and doesn't vent boost correctly or doesn't work under vacuum correctly. I messed with using one spring, both springs - 4 turns, 3 turns etc. till I finally just gave up.


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## bakana (Sep 18, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Ive always had great success with a piston type pressure relief valve. I prefer the HKS SSQ recirculated back to the intake. It holds and releases boost very well and its not anoying when you take the whistle insert out to install the recirculation fitting.


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