# anybody use motul or amsoil motor oil?



## datb0ypr (Sep 12, 2010)

how do you like it?I drive a mkv gli and use the casterol 5w 40..i was thinking of trying out amsoil or motul oil for my next oil change.


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## Super Hans (May 27, 2011)

There are better options for 1/2 the price, like the Mobil 1 High Miles oils.








Shot at 2011-09-04[/IMG]


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*owners manual*

vag says acea a3 or vw502 oil in 5w-40. if you're under warranty you should stick to those. there are many available both on line and in wallmart ect.. my 2.0t is quieter on 5w-40 and uses 1/2 ltr. between changes. i'm off warranty and tried fuchs gt 5w-30 last winter to no advantage. personally i would not use a 10w-xx in a turbo. many have good luck with m1 0w-40, the motul would be fine also.


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## p1bump (Sep 22, 2006)

there are a ton of choices, but there are none that are half price and that are also better. 

you'd be hard pressed to find one that is clearly superior. Amsoil's product lineup is, if any one thing, consistently excellent. I've been using it in my cars since 1994 exclusively. 

One of the things i like most about it is that, through oil analysis, I have researched that i can go safely 10k between oil changes using their AFL 5w-40 European formula. There is a new 5w-30 they also have, but your car calls for this one.. http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?code=AFLQT-EA

I got a guy that set me up buying it at wholesale to boot, 20-25% off the price of the lubricants more or less.

I run Amsoil is all cases on my 4x4 Tacoma, my mom's lexus, my Jetta, always ran it on my dirt bikes, anything two stroke, you name it. Always had phenom results and it's mostly american sourced, I like that too.


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## Super Hans (May 27, 2011)

Mobil 1 High Miles 10w-30 is ACEA A3

It is also half the price because it doesn't pay a fee to carry the VW 502 cert, which it most certainly exceeds...sort of like AMSoil.  

...just better. :laugh:

Anyone want to comment on the VOA I posted? :facepalm:


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*you're waste of time*



Super Hans said:


> Mobil 1 High Miles 10w-30 is ACEA A3
> 
> It is also half the price because it doesn't pay a fee to carry the VW 502 cert, which it most certainly exceeds...sort of like AMSoil.
> 
> ...


how's that for a post


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## uNclear (Aug 30, 2011)

:what:

Super Douche more like it!!!:screwy:


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## p1bump (Sep 22, 2006)

american sourced and made without exporting jobs, superior quality, I could go on.

in the end run oil analysis after the initial oil hange interval, then again every 1-2 thousand miles. you will see the difference between any standard stuff on american shelves immediately.

in the long run an oil change costs me 63 in product, I do it myself every 10k because it's an interval that's easy to remember. Analysis showed I could extend them as fas as 13k and still be in specification.

I demand maximum quality, longevity along with maximum economy. 

saving precious resources is equally important to me. 

so, the original post from datb0byr, to answer your question about Amsoil or Motul -. yes, I have experience with Amsoil and it is excellent, motul once in a dirt bike and it worked just fine. I doubled my drain ibtervals in my dirtbike on amsoil as well.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

gmikel said:


> vag says acea a3 or vw502 oil in 5w-40. if you're under warranty you should stick to those. there are many available both on line and in wallmart ect.. my 2.0t is quieter on 5w-40 and uses 1/2 ltr. between changes. i'm off warranty and tried fuchs gt 5w-30 last winter to no advantage. personally i would not use a 10w-xx in a turbo. many have good luck with m1 0w-40, the motul would be fine also.





Super Hans said:


> There are better options for 1/2 the price, like the Mobil 1 High Miles oils.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


A more recent VOA, though with Blackstone, courtesy of Bob Fout..... shows a big drop in Calcium.










Mobil 1 0w40, which has the VW cert, and doesn't cost as much as Amsoil....









Of course, syntec 5w40


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## p1bump (Sep 22, 2006)

what the heck did you do? You analyzed brand new oils? please correct me if I'm wrong.

I sure didn't see how long any of these oils were in service. Not time, mileage, nor hours appeared listed, but I'm on my mobile device, so I'm hoping it just couldnt show me that. But, I'm pretty sure it didn't list what car they were used in either.

so tell me if are you making claims of an oil quality based on it's state fresh from the bottle. 

please tell me you are not making quality claims based on the above and then stopping research there.

ingredients are not all the same and there is much else that can be of great importance. Ask any automotive chemist.

I want to know how well a given oil handles the conditions I put it through factually, with data and information that can be applied to my situation.

I/ we have enough uneducated opinions already.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

p1bump said:


> what the heck did you do? You analyzed brand new oils? please correct me if I'm wrong.
> 
> I sure didn't see how long any of these oils were in service. Not time, mileage, nor hours appeared listed, but I'm on my mobile device, so I'm hoping it just couldnt show me that. But, I'm pretty sure it didn't list what car they were used in either.
> 
> ...


VOA's... I've paid my fair share of them... only show you a starting point for the oil, so that you can start doing trend analysis with UOA's, which of course requires a lot of data. It's only snapshots of data.

Super Hans likes to use certain VOA's and single data points of UOA's to state his opinion as fact.


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## p1bump (Sep 22, 2006)

so I'm leaning. I did/do not see how he answers the original post question with any of it however.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

p1bump said:


> so I'm leaning. I did/do not see how he answers the original post question with any of it however.


you have to read more of this posts including all of his previous screen names, including Audi Junkie, AudisportA4, Autounion, etc....


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*a grain of salt*

again, we all have an opinion, some of us use a little common sense, others you decide. there are lots of good products out there beyond edge 5w-30.


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*audijerk*



BsickPassat said:


> you have to read more of this posts including all of his previous screen names, including Audi Junkie, AudisportA4, Autounion, etc....


:thumbup:


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## pipo (Oct 15, 1999)

I think the OP has gone over the Edge (which explains his silence). Ask a simple question... :laugh:


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## eyepoppet (May 2, 2011)

amsoil has been prove the best. thats what im going to use for my next oil change.


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*by who*



eyepoppet said:


> amsoil has been prove the best. thats what im going to use for my next oil change.


every comparison i see with amsoil products is one of their own infomercials.


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## Super Hans (May 27, 2011)

AMSoil made sense when the available lubes on the market were formulated for profit over performance. It still was and is more expensive, relying on extending drain intervals to even out the cost/mi issue is a false economy. If you want AMSoil for it's performance, that's fine, just pay the extra price. 

Since I pay zero for most of my oils, I have a skewed perception. 


I don't think AMSoil is 2x as good as the QSS 5w-40 I just paid $4 for. 

20k on AMSoil or 10k on VW 502 oil for the same cost....duh.


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## uNclear (Aug 30, 2011)

jmekt5a said:


> . My car feels smoother and the motor hums perfectly. Let your eyes be amazed.


That's all the proof I need...........you can feel it, hear it and see it's far better! :laugh:

Seriously dude are you selling this crap or something!?!?! :sly:


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## uNclear (Aug 30, 2011)

Thanks


I reported you as a non paying advertiser! :wave:


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## Super Hans (May 27, 2011)

AMSoil is fine, but the sales pitch is old and outdated. 

I'll refer you to Chevron's paper on "fake" synthetic.

Google ISOsyn.


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## jmekt5a (Apr 20, 2011)

uNclear said:


> That's all the proof I need...........you can feel it, hear it and see it's far better! :laugh:
> 
> Seriously dude are you selling this crap or something!?!?! :sly:


It looks to me that you enjoy sitting on here just to throw a few words around and not try to help give some imput on the subject. :screwy:

If you would run any tests yourself, which I know you wouldn't, cuz you sound like the lazy type, you would see how durible and long lasting AMSOIL is. So before you try to act tough buy reporting me for crossing the line about advertising I suggest you just chill and leave your unproductive imputs to yourself. :wave:


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## jmekt5a (Apr 20, 2011)

I get the idea about what ISOsyn is, it only falls into group II

AMSOIL is considered a group IV oil because of its design. There is no petroleum base whatsoever in it. 

Yes it is pricier than most other oils out there, but when the other manufactures that cost $4 are compared to AMSOIL there is no comparison. They all mostly use a petroleum base. 

AMSOIL also carries the 502 and 504 recommendation for VW's and other Euro cars. It says it right on the bottle. :thumbup:

I'm not trying to say anyone is wrong for not using AMSOIL by going with another oil. Whatever you want to use is your own wish. I'm just pointing out it is a superior oil and I know I can back that up throw the extensive testing done by AMSOIL. Plus all the users who have been using it for years and those who have switched to it and noticed a difference.


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## uNclear (Aug 30, 2011)

jmekt5a said:


> It looks to me that you enjoy sitting on here just to throw a few words around and not try to help give some imput on the subject. :screwy:
> 
> If you would run any tests yourself, which I know you wouldn't, cuz you sound like the lazy type, you would see how durible and long lasting AMSOIL is. So before you try to act tough buy reporting me for crossing the line about advertising I suggest you just chill and leave your unproductive imputs to yourself. :wave:



You proved nothing in your post about the quality of this product. By saying " My car feels smoother and the motor hums perfectly. Let your eyes be amazed." this is absolutely laughable as a sales pitch, you are a joke as a salesman! 

Why would I waste my time with this product? What could you possibly show me to change my mind about the choice of oil I use in my cars?

I hope this isn't your only job because you are really bad at it! :facepalm:

And why do you think the advetising agreement doesn't apply to you, why can you promote your product (poorly I will add!) for free while others can't? Maybe you think, you, like your product, is so superior the rules don't apply to you! :laugh:

:bs:


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## Super Hans (May 27, 2011)

Like I said, AMSoil is fine, but the salesman...:screwy:


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## jmekt5a (Apr 20, 2011)

uNclear said:


> You proved nothing in your post about the quality of this product.
> Why would I waste my time with this product? What could you possibly show me to change my mind about the choice of oil I use in my cars?
> 
> If you look at the post above the one you posted you would see some insight on the quality of the product. But apparently you forgot how to read.
> ...


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## uNclear (Aug 30, 2011)

You should spend more time selling this crap to people that care and less time trying to prove how wrong I am!?:screwy:


Super Oil guy gives too much information about oil and always ends up saying M1 HighMiles in the end anyway and the Sales Guy says "It says it right on the bottle. :thumbup:".........you guys should get together, one has the technical mumbo jumbo and the other has the infomercial sales pitch, you could be the Super Duper Oil Pooper Team! :laugh:


:wave:


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## Super Hans (May 27, 2011)

So, I'm guessing to become an AMSoil salesman you don't have to pass a tech exam or even a general knowledge questionnaire. 


Not even a MMPI?


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## uNclear (Aug 30, 2011)

:laugh:


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

Super Hans said:


> AMSoil is fine, but the sales pitch is old and outdated.
> 
> I'll refer you to Chevron's paper on "fake" synthetic.
> 
> Google ISOsyn.


M1 HM does contain some "fake" synthetic. It is mostly Group III base stock with some Group IV in it.


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## p1bump (Sep 22, 2006)

dude, I'm gone for 10 minutes (days) and all kinds of useless mayhem and cat calling goes on. amazing. 
I'm trying to see if I can post my results of past oil analysis.... let's see, how do I post a pdf?


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## p1bump (Sep 22, 2006)

I think this will do it. this is several oil analysissses (sp?). there were earlier tests on this car with another laboratory, other oils and much more short interval testing, but they are not recorded electronically, thus they will not be here. 

I run my oil till it is used up completely, not 3k, not 5k, not 7,500 nor anything else than what I found is the max I can run safely. I do not want my oil to test as new all the time, because then I wouldn't be using it up. It's not a race car, it's a road car, which I drive hard when I steal it from my wife. It commuted, stop and go, 2 hours a day, 5 days a week, a million weeks a year... 

It has appeared, based on analysis here and elsewhere, that 10k intervals are a correct fit with the AFL oil from amsoil. I know, from past experience, with other products, that every other lubricant I tried tends to break down much more quickly to unsafe levels in the same window of mileages. 

The consistency of what I find with this product is why I love it. Never mind I've gone over 30k on an oil change in my Tacoma several times in it's 244k lifetime and still she passes smog cleanly, doesn't consume, leak, burn or whatever. I also found the comfortable drain interval on the street for that vehicle, but as I take it 4 wheeling in the sierra nevada mountains and other extremely dusty environments, the conditions the truck runs in on every oil change is not duplicated consistently.

so, to the original poster, HELL YES. Amsoil for me. good luck.

open to discussion, but no ass hats please.


jetta analysis jpeg by p1bump, on Flickr


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*wonderful stuff*



p1bump said:


> I think this will do it. this is several oil analysissses (sp?). there were earlier tests on this car with another laboratory, other oils and much more short interval testing, but they are not recorded electronically, thus they will not be here.
> 
> I run my oil till it is used up completely, not 3k, not 5k, not 7,500 nor anything else than what I found is the max I can run safely. I do not want my oil to test as new all the time, because then I wouldn't be using it up. It's not a race car, it's a road car, which I drive hard when I steal it from my wife. It commuted, stop and go, 2 hours a day, 5 days a week, a million weeks a year...
> 
> ...


if you like it keep useing it. imo someone else's uoa is just that, unless you have all the same variables it's not really relavent. yes uoa's are designed to allow max use of oil, that's why tugboat's, railroads, over the road truckers, heavy equiptment operators, etc. all use them. but heck some of us don't put as many miles (hrs) on our cars in a lifetime as they do on thier oil.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

looks fine. What you can always do is at 5k miles, change the filter & top off the oil to give it a quick refresh of fresh oil, and it would keep a more comfortable safety margin on the TBN,

The viscosity being moderately low comment.... it's typical for 505.01 oil to shear down when you first use it. It's not caused by fuel dilution. The idea behind this is for TDI's and soot loading/thickening.


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## p1bump (Sep 22, 2006)

BsickPassat said:


> looks fine. What you can always do is at 5k miles, change the filter & top off the oil to give it a quick refresh of fresh oil, and it would keep a more comfortable safety margin on the TBN,
> 
> The viscosity being moderately low comment.... it's typical for 505.01 oil to shear down when you first use it. It's not caused by fuel dilution. The idea behind this is for TDI's and soot loading/thickening.


The oil filter is the full flow amsoil one that holds a ton more particles than the regulars, as has also been evidenced by past analysis various vehicles i have owned. the EaO37 filter is rated for 25k miles, I change it at 10k. when I have swapped it out for a mahle/fram/purolator, the silica jumps as the filters can't take out particles as small nor as efficiently. so I stick with the 10k on a single change. the high fuel dilution was when I had the temporary Revo (or maybe it was APR) trial software on for 5 hours and I drove like an ass... which was fun.


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## p1bump (Sep 22, 2006)

gmikel said:


> if you like it keep useing it. imo someone else's uoa is just that, unless you have all the same variables it's not really relavent. yes uoa's are designed to allow max use of oil, that's why tugboat's, railroads, over the road truckers, heavy equiptment operators, etc. all use them. but heck some of us don't put as many miles (hrs) on our cars in a lifetime as they do on thier oil.


your conclusion is both accurate and innacurate. Motors in a family tend to react similarly, but there are ALWAYS variables. Life is always that way

... but on a stock motor, in hot weather commuting, extended idling and some spirited driving, while analysis results will vary, the resulting length of term you can use this oil will be very similar provided there are no other maladies withing your powerplant. 

try it out, I've spent at least $1000 between oil analysis and testing on my vehicles in the past few years. i've seen repeated repeatable results with Amsoil, so I use it dang near religiously. it's better with the data as I've shown than the testimony that 8 granddaddys used it without a problem, don't you think?

I don't buy oils that I like, I buy oils that have proven their worth. 

I buy shoes that I like.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

p1bump said:


> the high fuel dilution was when I had the temporary Revo (or maybe it was APR) trial software on for 5 hours and I drove like an ass... which was fun.


I'm not referring to the fuel dilution on one of your older samples. I'm referring to the OAI's comment on the lower viscosity of the sample--- which is a characteristic of 505.01 oils.


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## 625147 (Jul 14, 2011)

amsoil works real good, and has consistancy in their products. 
5w-40 and such weights need to be changed more often than 5w-20 or 10w-30 
and due to falures before of 10k oils etc.. 
castrol conventional is proven better than alot of oils, not to say full synthetic. 
oil filters can pay off too. fram is only so good. 
non-reving cars can use 0w sny. and higher revving and higher tuned can use a 15w, or 20w for summer, for winter 10w is max for all. 15w in 32f is getting low for cold time. best of all with a 10w or lower you can run year round, you dont have to change at season. and the amsoil is lasting 7.5k or more. 
secondary full flow filters work good too, have 2 and no leaks, just an extra 3/4 qt of oil. and make sure you tighten filters.


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*hot weather*



p1bump said:


> your conclusion is both accurate and innacurate. Motors in a family tend to react similarly, but there are ALWAYS variables. Life is always that way
> 
> ... but on a stock motor, in hot weather commuting, extended idling and some spirited driving, while analysis results will vary, the resulting length of term you can use this oil will be very similar provided there are no other maladies withing your powerplant.
> 
> ...


 idleing is not good regardless of oil or motor imo, but highway miles and spirited driving don't hurt a thing, again imo. vw's have a oil/water heat exchanger and if your cooling system is in working order your oil can't tell summer from winter after it reaches operating temp.. 

although i don't buy into the amsoil thing i've alway said use what works for you. but again would use a 502 or a3 oil. 

good luck on the shoes


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## doctorvw (Apr 7, 2011)

p1bump said:


> I think this will do it. this is several oil analysissses (sp?). there were earlier tests on this car with another laboratory, other oils and much more short interval testing, but they are not recorded electronically, thus they will not be here.
> 
> I run my oil till it is used up completely, not 3k, not 5k, not 7,500 nor anything else than what I found is the max I can run safely. I do not want my oil to test as new all the time, because then I wouldn't be using it up. It's not a race car, it's a road car, which I drive hard when I steal it from my wife. It commuted, stop and go, 2 hours a day, 5 days a week, a million weeks a year...
> 
> ...


How many miles are on this oil? Do you have the turbo on your Jetta?


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## p1bump (Sep 22, 2006)

The information you asked about is on the image, easier to see if you pull it up in a separate window. 

near the top is describes the vehicle, in this case our 1.8l motor, which is the Turbo on all our MkIV models.

Second row from the bottom at the 4th or 5th column from the left indicates Unit Time and Lube Time.

Unit time is the indicated total mileage on the vehicle at the time of the sample. 

Lube time is the mileage driven since the sample being tested had been installed.


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## doctorvw (Apr 7, 2011)

p1bump said:


> The information you asked about is on the image, easier to see if you pull it up in a separate window.
> 
> near the top is describes the vehicle, in this case our 1.8l motor, which is the Turbo on all our MkIV models.
> 
> ...


Thanks. That's an impressive UOA. I noticed you used a different lab than most. It seems almost everyone uses Blackstone. What led you to use these guys? What was the cost? Any particular reason you went with them vs. Blackstone? I'd like to send a few UOAs off and would be open to suggestions of where's the best.


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## p1bump (Sep 22, 2006)

I've used Oil Analyzer Inc for years. Originally amsoil would refer folks to them, which is how I learned of them. Any laboratory specializing in used oil analysis is fine. Blackstone sends you free kits, you pay when you get the analysis done. I buy my OAI kits through amsoil for around 25 including ups prepaid back to the lab. They also set me up with an online account I use to track all my friendly and familiar vehicles in one place.

whichever one you chose, stick with it for consistency and reccomendations. For future service needs.


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*just change your oil*



p1bump said:


> I've used Oil Analyzer Inc for years. Originally amsoil would refer folks to them, which is how I learned of them. Any laboratory specializing in used oil analysis is fine. Blackstone sends you free kits, you pay when you get the analysis done. I buy my OAI kits through amsoil for around 25 including ups prepaid back to the lab. They also set me up with an online account I use to track all my friendly and familiar vehicles in one place.
> 
> whichever one you chose, stick with it for consistency and reccomendations. For future service needs.


unless you want to push your oil to the limit or are obsessed with uoas, a reasonable oil change interval will take care of you. what you spend on a uoa will damn near cover the cost of an oil change if you shop for oil. just use good earl and you'll be fine.


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## p1bump (Sep 22, 2006)

gmikel said:


> unless you want to push your oil to the limit or are obsessed with uoas, a reasonable oil change interval will take care of you. what you spend on a uoa will damn near cover the cost of an oil change if you shop for oil. just use good earl and you'll be fine.


To just change it, well, you are missing the point that is often on everyone's minds these days:

Conservation. 

I'm neither obsessed nor wanting to push my oil changes to the limit. The reason I did the UOA in the first place is to know what, and I quote you, "reasonable oil change interval" really was. 

To say to simply change it and to spend the money to do so is completely up to you. In the world we lived in years ago, I may have agreed with you, back in the early 1990's. Today I feel that approach to be an irresponsible one, influenced by wild marketing strategies and inaccurate beliefs, behavior and purchasing decisions influenced by them. Marketing is science in the same way politics is, but neither help my vehicles run.

I do not believe marketing, nor oil companies nor hearsay from a "reputable" source. I wanted facts. Sure, I spent $25 on a little pump to sample oil, and it costs me $25 or so to get the analysis done. In the long run it costs me much less. It takes less than 5 minutes to take a sample, have it labeled, packaged and ready to drop off to UPS. Then I just wait for the magic to show up in my email inbox. Simple, accurate, precise and to the point. Maximum extraction of results for my hard earned money. I don't sample as regularly any more, because my baseline has been established. I'll pull a sample before every other oil change (20k) to check the health of my motor.

In my instance, and I'd bet for most with a good condition 1.8T that isn't chipped, 10k would be appropriate. BUT, don't take my word for it. I encourage you to find out for yourself, lest you stick with what the manufacturer recommends and be done with it. 

Remember 3,000 mile oil changes? I just saw a quick lube place down the road yesterday whose logo is an odometer sweeping from 2,999 into 3,000. I chuckled when considering i've gone over 30k on a change. 

Analysis is the most intelligent way forward, but there is something to be said for simplicity. I know most motorists will never do oil analysis. If you really want to know what you got in there, there's only one way. Analysis.


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## p1bump (Sep 22, 2006)

now, we're only talking about VW's here, and in my case I've only mentioned the 1.8T's when speaking of VW's cause that's all i've had. But, when friends are driving Powerstroke or Cummins diesels, or Mercedes or Porsche with 8-16qt systemts, it's all of a sudden an even more economical thing to do. which is why industrial applications do it nearly exclusively.


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*1.8t*



p1bump said:


> now, we're only talking about VW's here, and in my case I've only mentioned the 1.8T's when speaking of VW's cause that's all i've had. But, when friends are driving Powerstroke or Cummins diesels, or Mercedes or Porsche with 8-16qt systemts, it's all of a sudden an even more economical thing to do. which is why industrial applications do it nearly exclusively.


vw recommends 5k, that's my standard. maybe a little short sometimes depending on my driving. on a longitudinal that only hold 4 qts with the large filter 10 k seems to be pushing it quite a bit.

when you're changing earl in the capacity that some diesels hold maybe uoa's have some validity. but conservation wise, how many of those truck are for work and how many are for mine is bigger than yours? bet it's pretty even.

again, as i've said before, do what works for you.


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## rickjaguar (Apr 23, 2009)

Just sticking to the original question: yes i used Motul X-Clean 5W-40 and i liked it, but it wasn't especially better. The 2.0T is pretty harsh on oils, and i've learned that the Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 performs really well in our engines. It's very affordable too... compared to Redline, or LubroMoly 5W-40s.. other well-performing oils.


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

rickjaguar said:


> Just sticking to the original question: yes i used Motul X-Clean 5W-40 and i liked it, but it wasn't especially better. The 2.0T is pretty harsh on oils, and i've learned that the Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 performs really well in our engines. It's very affordable too... compared to Redline, or LubroMoly 5W-40s.. other well-performing oils.


:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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