# con of Routan. Please help with the list



## russianTT (Sep 11, 2010)

I've owned a number of VW/AUDI vehicles in my 30 years. Im now thinking of buying a 2009 Routan with 114k miles. I know that this is a Chrysler engine and tranny. Heard the engine was bulletproof, but trannies had problem. How do you comment on this? Are there any other issues that i need to look for before buying it. I do have a VAG-COM.


----------



## routan2010se (Jun 17, 2013)

russianTT said:


> I've owned a number of VW/AUDI vehicles in my 30 years. Im now thinking of buying a 2009 Routan with 114k miles. I know that this is a Chrysler engine and tranny. Heard the engine was bulletproof, but trannies had problem. How do you comment on this? Are there any other issues that i need to look for before buying it. I do have a VAG-COM.


Vag-com won't do you much good beyond the odbII, as it uses a custom star-scan, system, so even chrysler dealers can't read them.

The 2009/10 is the year before the slight changes in interior, brakes, and engines. There were recalls on 2009 ignition switches too. The Y connector can leak coolant on the manifold and be hard to spot.

Brakes is the biggest issue, the are too small and people upgrade to either later years or better quality parts, not OEM.

For the most part, other than the tailgate, front fenders, hood and bumper, and dash, this is all a Chrysler vehicle, only VW got to design the parts, Chrysler still made it 100%.

Look at the stickies, all the known common issues are on the board.


----------



## russianTT (Sep 11, 2010)

routan2010se said:


> Look at the stickies, all the known common issues are on the board.


That's the thing. Stickies don't have any info at all on CONs of these vans. I am worried about transmission going out on it. Or have they been updated to last a bit longer than their older brothers?


----------



## Zambee500 (Jun 23, 2011)

My transmission met the grim reaper Saturday evening at 99,980 on the odo and (get this) 2.5 weeks after extended warranty expired. Had it towed to the dealership this morning, but haven't heard back yet on status. It had stored 2 codes but no CEL:
(1) P8313* for transmission pressure sensor
(2) P0733 Incorrect 3rd Gear Ratio

(* may've written code down wrong. will update later)

Also now has significant whining noise from inside when engine is running. Van sputtered, clunked, and then tachometer revved to 4k leaving a stop light. I took foot off accelerator to let it settle down, and then gently babied it into the parking lot across the street.

Will update later. Don't want to thread-jack, so I may start another thread.


----------



## routan2010se (Jun 17, 2013)

Zambee500 said:


> My transmission met the grim reaper Saturday evening at 99,980 on the odo and (get this) 2.5 weeks after extended warranty expired. Had it towed to the dealership this morning, but haven't heard back yet on status. It had stored 2 codes but no CEL:
> (1) P8313* for transmission pressure sensor
> (2) P0733 Incorrect 3rd Gear Ratio
> 
> ...


Any other symptoms the last few months?


----------



## Zambee500 (Jun 23, 2011)

Started a new thread so as to avoid threadjacking. Tried to explain symptoms in recent months.

Also, I miswrote the code for Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor (LC pressure switch rationality). It is P083B (not P08313).


----------



## Chedman13 (May 30, 2012)

Besides transmission, my rotors always warps so went with tireracks cyro centric solid rotor (not drilled or slotted), hawk hps front and akebono rear.

So far so good.

Nothing else to complain about. Perfect family car for me.


----------



## burndtjammer (Feb 11, 2009)

*my cons*

Currently driving a 2010 with 76K. 

-Replaced brakes numerous times before going to performancebrakes.com and getting slotted and drilled but i may go with slotted and dimpled next time
-just replaced front calipers, siezed
-70K replaced driver and passenger drive shafts. The axle nuts were rusted to the point the damaged the axle and the cv joints were leaking. I did a trans filter and fluid change at this time.
-Chain on rear hatch motor broke when the safety feature didn't kick in to stop the door from closing on an object. Removed the motor and we know just use it as a manual hatch.
-motorized passenger doors rock back on occasion.
-power steering is starting to go. 
-gas useage is on the low end of the EPA rating.


Does this have a timing belt or chain? Haven't touched that yet.


----------



## Chedman13 (May 30, 2012)

1) my gas mileage has always been on the low end of the EPA rating as well.

2) I would suggest blank rotors unless you really want the look. You want the most surface area for braking. Slotted is great for initial bite, but eats up pads faster. Slotted, I don't buy unless they are cast and not drilled. Dimpled can make a whooshing noise. The cryo should help with warping, but time will tell.

Looks like I have drive shafts and other things to look forward to going wrong!! I'm not there yet at 50k.



burndtjammer said:


> Currently driving a 2010 with 76K.
> 
> -Replaced brakes numerous times before going to performancebrakes.com and getting slotted and drilled but i may go with slotted and dimpled next time
> -just replaced front calipers, siezed
> ...


----------



## georgef61 (May 16, 2011)

burndtjammer said:


> -Chain on rear hatch motor broke when the safety feature didn't kick in to stop the door from closing on an object. Removed the motor and we know just use it as a manual hatch.


That can repaired by replacing the chain, it is an inexpensive fix. See the following link: 2010 T&C liftgate chain repairs





burndtjammer said:


> Does this have a timing belt or chain? Haven't touched that yet.


The 4.0L has a timing belt which should be changed at 102,000 Miles (170,000 km) or 102 Months.

The 3.8L has a timing chain that should last for the life of the engine.


----------



## Zambee500 (Jun 23, 2011)

burndtjammer said:


> -Replaced brakes numerous times before going to performancebrakes.com and getting slotted and drilled but i may go with slotted and dimpled next time


My first few sets of front brakes only went 10-12k miles each. I think maybe 3 sets. Various brands. I had the BrakePerformance.com slotted and dimpled installed 2 years ago and I now have 29k miles on them. They are just starting to wobble a bit when braking at interstate speed under light braking. BUT, they are loud brakes and always have been. Whooshing sound. I plan to replace them with the drilled/slotted rotors assuming BrakePerformance.com will send those as replacements under warranty for the dimpled/slotted ones (the lifetime warranty is limited to one set of replacements). Someone else here did the same thing and indicated the drilled/slotted are equal quality/performance but much much quieter than the dimpled.

Also, at the time I bought BrakePerformance only sold semi-metallic pads for these vans in the standard or premium flavors. The rotors came with the standard semi-metallic pads, or you could upgrade to premium semi-metallic for $40. I see on their web-site now that the premium rotors now come with premium semi-metallic pads, but you can upgrade to premium ceramic pads for ~$15. I think I would opt for the ceramics next time, even though BrakePerformance doesn't recommend the ceramics for trucks, SUVs and "heavy" vehicles.

As an aside, for the rears I had the OEMs replaced with Raybestos Advanced Technology ceramic pads and rotors 3.5 years ago and now have 45k miles on them. I was never able to find the Raybestos Advanced Technology for the fronts though (admittedly didn't search too hard though). But that might be another good option.


----------



## Volvos Rock (Oct 13, 2011)

Cons, hmmm, it's a Chrysler for one.....our 2010 at 48 k miles front end sounds like a Chrysler front end. I do wish it was a true VW, I would probably like it a lot more but it does serve its intended use. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------

