# Some 08 stereo install information...



## Audi'sRevenge (Mar 24, 2008)

_Edited, added updates..._
I know there are a few stereo install thread on here already but none really talk about what harness/adapters are required to fit an aftermarket unit in the car for a DIY installation.
Searching high and low on the intarwebs I still came up with little info







Even using application guides on sites like Metra's, everything seems to be messed up, inaccurate, or not available








I went over on AudiWorld forums and there seemed to be more info and people helped me out, but there but still was nothing specific or concrete about what parts you need. 
So... After doing all my own research and putting things together, this is what I've found out so far. I thought I would share this so when people are looking for the same info, it can be found here in one place. Anyone else is free to add what they know because I haven't gotten all the info yet either as this installation will happen in the coming weeks (hopefully I'll have everything in by the end of the month). So keep in mind none of this is 100% yet because I haven't actually done it myself to say for sure, but most of it should be accurate from what I've researched...
Much of what I found had people saying you have to order off websites in the UK like Nexxia. This is not required as Scosche and Metra make the parts you need and they sell widely in NA...
*Dash kit/bezel*:
First is the dash kit. This one I think we all know about. For either fitting a double DIN or single DIN aftermarket unit, you need a Metra *99-9104* kit. For mounting a double DIN unit you have to cut the centre bar out and then you're good to go. 
This kit is ridiculously expensive nearly everywhere. The MSRP is like $50 or something and the cheapest it's found on eBay is $35 + shipping. Why I say it's expensive is because c'mon it's a piece of plastic. There are kits for other cars with more parts and complexity that cost less. Seems they are just gouging because of the rarity of the A3?
Luckily I found one place that had it for cheap, Sonicelectronix @$25. Well as cheap as you're gonna find this particular piece of plastic anyway. One problem though... not in stock. However I ordered it from them and they got it in stock and it's shipping to me now. More are now in stock on the website (due to my order







) for anyone interested. _I just checked again recently, and SE has upped their price to $40 for this now!







_
*Harness*:
Next up is the harness. Now this one was absolutely retarded because it seems all info on this is messed up (someone correct me if I'm wrong).
Even the Nexxia site seems to not know what they are talking about. The connector on the Concert II+ and Symphony II+ in the 08s is the same. (I pulled my Concert II+ already to be sure). This is what's called a QuadLock connector AFAIK. Now on the Nexxia site it says that the newer cars have QuadLock and the harness they have is not appllicable (and none is availble). The harness they have they essentially say is only applicable to cars which would have the II (not II+) radios. Way off from what I can tell. 
The harness they sell for these cars _is_ a QuadLock harness and I have no idea how that would work on an 06-07 car, given the Concert II has ISO connectors on it. The QuadLock is the correct harness for the II+ radios, not the II radios.
Even on eBay the harnesses listed for "06-07 A3" look the same and look like they would never work on those cars, yet they are the right ones for an 08








Anyway the short of it is, that the harness required is the Scosche *VW03B*, I'm about 99% sure of this.
This is just a simple harness however and so it doesn't address a few things:
1. Certain required signals like switched power and illumination are not at the factory radio. These are CAN bus signals to the factory HU. Therefore you can either get a CAN harness for $100 or buy a $5 VW03B and find those wires on your own, elsewhere in the vehcile. You can guess which way I'm going lol (haven't found which wires to use yet, but when I do I'll update this). 
Note: These wires may be in the harness (for other car models) but they either connect to pins that do something else, or do nothing at all (so don't connect these up to your aftermarket unit!) 
_Note#2: You do NOT need to get switched power from anywhere if you use a SWI-CAN2 as it is provided for you. There are some caveats about the switched output though, see below in the posts following. Illumination I will show you where to tap







_
2. The rear speakers are not available in the harness because they are amplified along with the "sub" in the trunk. There are wires for the rear speakers but they are in the smaller plugs on the quadlock, which the VW03B does not have. There's a few things you can do here if you need the rear speakers (and "sub") working:
i. Splice those wires into male RCA connectors and then connect to the appropriate pre-outs on your head unit (apparently they are simply line level outs on the factory HU and will work fine like this).
ii. Find a harness connector that fits the smaller plug and use that instead of splicing, even easier if you find one that has RCA connectors on the other side.
iii. Screw the factory sub and the amp and just rewire the speakers to an aftermarket amp and put in a real sub/amp. (Again this is my direction.)
*Antenna adapter*:
Next up, the antenna adapter. Seems like a Scosche *VWA4B* will do the trick. Connect up the blue wire to your aftermarket's antenna lead and connect one of the two antennas in the car to the adapter and that should be that. (Not sure if it makes any difference which one you use since it's a diversity system stock.) If your aftermarket HU has diversity tuning (rare other than some old-skool mobile ES decks of the 90s) then I'd imagine you could use two adapters and both antennas (?).
_Note: I did *not* get this antenna adapter to work on my car, I'm not sure what the problem was. I did my initial install without it and when I went back in the spring to look at it again, I realised the adapter I had was broken inside so this may have been why it wasn't working. I have yet to get another one to verify though. I don't care about the radio so this was not really an issue for me. _
*Running your mainline*:
Another thing. Mainline power for aftermarket amps... Apparently if you have a DSG it's rather easy to use the hole in the firewall that is already there for where the clutch would go on manual trans cars. Haven't actually tried this yet, but that's what I read anyway. If you have a 3.2L you may have an even easier time--the battery is in the trunk already. 
*Steering wheel controls* (retention of):
To retain these you need an SWI-CAN2 _and_ then the appropriate model for your head unit (two modules). This has been mentioned before, with some people saying the CAN2 did not work correctly on the 2008 car? Peripheral's website states the CAN2 works with 08s as well, so I'm not sure if it's been updated or if the info that it doesn't work was mistaken? (Note that PAC interfaces are sold under various companies--PIE, PAC, Peripheral all sell some of the exact same interfaces just rebranded.) 
Anyway that's all I know for now, hopefully that will help out anyone looking for this information. If anyone has anything else to add I'd appreciate them posting it! 
_Updated further with pics and more instruction below_










_Modified by Audi'sRevenge at 9:07 AM 9/23/2009_


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## terje_77 (Dec 19, 2005)

*Re: Some 08 stereo install information... (Audi'sRevenge)*

Nice write up bro!


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## yam (Jul 18, 2005)

Nice writeup! PM'ed Irish for sticky in the diy.


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## Audi'sRevenge (Mar 24, 2008)

*Updated! Quick primer...*

Before I begin with the rest of this, just a quick electrical primer/disclaimer.
First off if you have little to know electrical knowhow (particularly with 12V/automotive electrics) then you may want to think twice about attempting a stereo install _on your own_. Don't get me wrong, I am *all for* DIYing (hence my posting this info here) but if you aren't confident with any of this stuff I recommend you at least get a helper/supervisor in the form of a friend/family member that _does_. If you are _really_ not confident and don't know anyone who is, you may want to refer this to a professional installer instead.
*Use this guide at your own risk. It is for informational purposes only.* I take no responsibility for any damages you cause to your vehicle or electronics as a result of using this information.
Also a note about what I call "electrical malfeasance", lol. This applies to _all_ electrical installations/mods you do, not just to installing a simple stereo as in this write up. There are certain things I'm taking for granted here, especially in terms of describing electrical connections and you knowing how to do them! All connections should be done _properly_. 
Solder/heatshrink or proper crimps (with a proper crimping tool and procedure) are required when making electrical connections. When making "exterior" connections (connections at places where moisture may be high, water may enter, or where otherwise subject to the elements) make the proper accomodations for such connections (i.e. waterproofing). Heatshrink, "insulspray", brush-on electrical "tape", and the like all beat plain electrical tape or (gasp!) nothing at all. An exterior connection made without these considerations may corrode and deteriorate causing you problems down the road. 
None of the ol' ghetto "twist and tape" or half-assed connections will do! Please minimise "tap" type connections wherever/whenever possible; and, stay away from "add-a-circuit" type jobbies where you insert them into the fuesbox. Speaking of the fuse box, _for the love of God_ do not tap a fusebox connection with just a bare wire inserted on one blade of a fuse! First off that's more ghetto than the add-a-circuit, secondly you probably haven't considered whether you're connecting to the hot side or the dead side of that fuse, which can lead to an electrical fire damaging your whole fuse box and the providing the obvious danger of a fire otherwise.
Fuse all +B (positive battery) connections when and where appropriate. Use appropriate gauge wire for the current (A) requirement and length of wire being used. Remember AWG is based on two things--cross sectional conductor area and resistance per unit length. I.e. An 8 gauge wire may be fine to carry 100A 1 foot, but 15 feet? Not so much.
I've installed various mobile electronics, in a non-professional capacity, for about 15 years and I've seen a lot of electrical malfesance in my day done by other people; so just covering those bases. 
Finally, this guide may be considered verbose, but I'm just trying to be thorough! It may be the case that some things are obvious to you, or it may not. I don't usually do many writeups, and sure there are others out there but I haven't seen one too specific to the A3 yet. Hopefully this will help some of my fellow A3ers out


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## Audi'sRevenge (Mar 24, 2008)

*Head unit!*

So I realise this thread is nearly a year old (wow has it been that long?) but I'm finally updating it with some pics and stuff. 
I had taken a lot of pics throughout the install but due to the fact that I installed parts in various months (some in the fall last year, then again in the spring/summer this year) I don't remember exactly what I was trying to show in each picture and some pictures that I did take I can't seem to find







Anyway here goes!
I'm going to try to keep this in sections so first up I'll start with the:
*HEAD UNIT & NAV INSTALL*.
_My components of choice were Kenwood DDX812 and KNA-G510, Peripheral SWI-CAN2 and SWI-AKJC, Scosche VW03B equivalent harness. You may use whatever you like_.
Unfortunately I lost the most pics from this portion as it was the first thing to go in so I'll do my best to describe what goes on here. It's _very_ simple and straightforward in this vehicle other than the CAN bus stuff which isn't really any more than ignition and illumination.
*Preliminary*:
Before removing your head unit, I recommed you do the following:
-For DSG cars, move the shifter all the way back to S; for manual cars, just select a gear in the rearward part of the gate. Obviously in both cases ensure the parking brake is applied. 
-Place a towel, sheet of plastic, etc. over the shifter area as you may scratch these areas if you just put the bare metal chassis of the HU on them.
*Stock Concert/Symphony II+ (& RNS-E) removal*:
To remove your head unit you will need a set of four remvoval "keys". I've seen it asked before and no you cannot get away with using two keys to remove the double DIN heads, you _need_ four. No pics here (sorry!), but just insert the keys in the slots above and below the head until they "*click*". 
Then wiggle the stoctory HU out slowly until you get it moving a bit. I recommend using one on the bottom and one on top (diagonally) to get it going. 
Thereafter it's pretty simple to pull out. 
Note that you _can_ get your keys stuck in the factory head unit, it happened to me too. _Don't_ panic, just take a careful look at how they are jammed and use a small screwdriver to release the keys now that you have the radio out. One of mine was jammed so bad I actually had to remove the spring metal thing from the side of the HU (can be unscrewed) to get the key out. You shouldn't have to go this far but it's not a big deal if you do.
Once you have the head unit pulled out of the dash, you'll see the connections in the rear. Remove the diversity antenna connector by pressing on the release tab and wiggling out the connection. The main Quadlock connector is sort of self-ejecting. There is a catch on the "lever" that you release and then you just push the lever and the connection comes apart just like that.
This is your pinout for the factory head unit:








*Harness/Wiring:*
Hopefully you've assembled your aftermarket harness and wheel/CAN bus adapters to your VW03B (or whatever harness you got). If you haven't, well what are you waiting for?!








Here is one completed for you (Kenwood DDX812 harness + KNA-G510 Nav cable (purple thing) + SWI-CAN2 + SWI-AKJC + VW03B):








IMPORTANT: If you're using a VW03B or similar harnes, pay attention to the fact that the REAR speaker wires on the VW03B do *NOT* correspond to speaker wires in this vehicle. Do NOT blindly follow colour codes in this particular case as there are certain wires you do not connect as they are in the harness because the VW03B is not actually specific to the Audi, but it's the same connector and same wires you need. 
Pay attention to the original diagram on your II+ factory head unit and you'll find the CAN H[igh] and CAN L[ow] (+ and - on the CAN2 adapter IIRC) are there so you can use those wires in the 03B which correspond (both brown IIRC). Do not connect the rear speaker wires on the 03B to _anything_, just tape them off! The rear speakers in your A3 are amplified by the "sub" amp in the trunk. If you require the use of the rear speakers please see post#1 for recommendations and avenues, feel free to ask questions if you're not clear.
*CAN bus and Steering Wheels Controls adapters*:
Here's the CAN and SW adapters up closer:








Note the AKJC is the same as the JACK, Peripheral just calls it that while PAC calls it JACK. Nicely these are made to work together so the CAN2 comes with a harness that has a plug on it for the JACK already. Instead of using the JACK's harness you just plug it into the spot on the CAN2s harness and wire it up once instead of having multiple wires to connect.







Set up your dial/switch positions on these modules now, according to the instructions provided with them. 
**_A note about the CAN2's switched/ignition power output. As mentioned in the first post, the CAN2 does have this feautre. The caveat is that the retained accessory power you get from the factory (where the radio stays on for 10mins or whatever) doesn't work right for whatever reason. It retains accessory power until you pull out the key just like the factory except it only lasts like 30 seconds instead of 10 minutes! I've read that this may not occur on 06-07 cars but it certainly does on my 08. Therefore just be aware of that. If you want to use the radio with the ignition off I recommend you wire up a SPDT switch with one side wired to the CAN2s output and the other side wired to +B, and hide that under the dash somewhere._**
Moving back to inside the vehicle, factory head removed...
The CAN2 does NOT provide any of the following:
-illumination output
-parking brake output
-reverse output
If you require these you may instead use an [expensive] harness instead of the VW03B that gives these signals but note that you still need a CAN2 for the wheel controls as apart from possibley a Connects2 UK product, I don't think any one product does all of these things. Otherwise find them manually in the vehicle. The only other one I required was illumination so I tapped that at one of the buttons/blanks switches. 
*Non-CAN bus aquisition of illumination/dimmer wire (variable voltage)*:
To do this all you need to do is push out your ESP switch. This is easily done when you have the head unit out. You may remove the bezel around the hazard and buttons/blanks by simply gently prying it out. Push the ESP switch out from behind by putting your hand inside the dash opening for the stereo and then remove the connector from the ESP switch (_note these are actually an "after" pics where I've reassembled the connector with my orange wire in there_):
















You will find a tie-wrap (zip-tie for you US ppl) around the end of the white plastic shround here. You can either cut this off and replace it afterwards or release the tie-wrap with a jeweller's screwdriver and replace it afterwards. Once you've done that remove the white plastic surround to net only the black connector. Then with a poiny instrument like a scriber (or even the probe of your multimeter) push down the locking tab in the wire and remove as shown (blue and white I believe? Please test with a multimeter to be sure, it will show +B with the lights on and the dash dimmer at max brightness):








Connect the wire as shown by wrapping your stripped illum wire around the terminal. Lightly solder for good measure. You may alternately tap that wire using a tap, or cut it and crimp in the illum wire but I did it like this because the wire is taped all the way around from the factory and it's fairly silly to unwrap all that tape IMO. Strip enough of the wire that you can push the added wire back into the connector along with the stock wire. Once in there the conductor should be totally concealed/insualted along with the stock wire. Reassemble the shroud and tape you've pulled back, put the tie-wrap back on and click it back into the ESP switch. Pop the ESP switch back in. 








Illumination taken care of!








*Navigation-related installation*:
I had a separate nav unit to install for my DDX812 (DDX812 + KNA-G510 = DNX8120 for about $100 less), plus a USB cable for USB-MS/iPod, so I'll go over that quickly here...
The G510 actually fits in the pocket where the stoctory CD changer would go in the glove box, _perfectly_! No screws required it essentially just pops in and holds from the fact that it's a perfect fit. To remove the pocket simply pull it straight out of the glovebox, no fasteners hold it in. However that pocket has no proper exit for wiring, so you need to cut the end off, which I did with my trusty Dremel...
From this:








to this:








It will be easy enough to just put some black tape over that hole later on, in the case of the lease return. The hole was then large enough to fit my nav unit's cable through as well as the USB heads from the Kenwood DDX. To run the wiring I had to remove the glovebox entirely but I had to do so for my amp RCAs anyhow (see amp intall). The way I mounted the G510, the wiring connector is at the back (hidden) and the front pop up for the SD card and mini-B USB are easily accessible. [will add pic later.] 
The *nav antenna* I installed directly over the two centre vents, just below the dash. I essentially installed it on the duct work, using some 3M double sided _exterior_ mounting tape (very strong). My antenna was magnetic but the ducts are made of plastic so it had to be stuck on there. It has not moved yet since last year and my reception is quite good--no problems with GPS really. 
Keep in mind your A3 _is_ equipped with a rooftop GPS antenna. It uses a FAKRA/SMB connection though and Kenwood (among some other companies) use a HRS (HiRose is the supplier) GT5 connector for the nav antenna. This is the most difficult nav antenna type to find a connector for to adapt it to FAKRA. There is a rare cable made by Kathrein (supplier) for certain model years Mercedes-Benz ML models with COMAND navigation, but MB dealers were being retards helping me get the part so I just said screw it. If your nav uses FAKRA (or some other connection where it's easy to get an adapter cable) I would highly recommend using the rooftop antenna, not because reception is bad under the dash but just because it is there. 
As a note I read on AudiWorld some nonsense about removing the instrument panel and mounting the GPS antenna in some alleged "pocket" type area above there 







but I tried that and found no such thing and nowhere for the antenna to go.
_Moving on..._
*Head unit & accessory testing*:
Now connect your stock harness up to your pre-wired, herein: "thingamajig", with the adapters and stuff on it. The Quadlock connects into there and locks the same way. You might not have a locking tab on the VW03B--that's okay the Quadlock should not come out once you slide the lever to connect it. 
Connect up your antenna adapter to _one_ of the two FAKRA/SMB sides of the factory antenna. It seems you can only connect to one of the sides in particular, if you want the locking tab to line up. See my note above about me not getting the antenna adapter to work in this vehicle. If you have success, please let us know!
Now connect up your head unit and other accessories (I had a nav module for example) to the appropriate ends of your thingamajig. If you have RCAs for amp(s) connect those up too (see amp install post below). Do not yet mount/slide anything in permanently, you can just sit your HU in the cavity for now as well. 
Make your connections and follow the instructions for programming the SWI-CAN2 and SWI-XXXX, if applicable. When programming the wheel controls ensure all doors are closed and turn off the climate control and do not operate anything else like the windows as these send messages over the CAN bus and will mess up your programming. You don't exactly want the window to wind down when you're turning up the volume, LOL! 
When you test out the wheel controls with the head unit on make sure the light on the XXXX module is not flashing and be careful to set the head unit on some blank source like AUX or similar. The reason I say this is because in my case when I first programmed mine it *repeated* the volume up command when I turned the volume scroller once meaning the HU just continually increased in volume to maximum! If you do this with a source playing you will be in for an earful! I had to turn off the HU and try again and the second time the programming worked and that was that.
Now ensure _everything_ else is working with your HU install, GPS, etc. (Test speaker outputs by using the fader for example, illumination wire by using the headlights, etc.). Correct any problems before proceeding. Start the engine as well! This will be a dead giveaway for ground loops which you may not notice while the engine is off.
*Dash kit placement*:
Disconnect your HU again and grab your 99-9104. If you're installing double DIN, hopefully you've cut out the centre divider already. If you haven't what are you waiting for?!







I recommend a Dremel or similar to make this job take two seconds, but a hacksaw will do fine as well. If it's a single DIN install, pop the pocket in; or in a two-separate-DIN-units install, keep the centre support and forget the pocket. 
Put your HU cage(s) into the 99-9104 and bend the cage tabs where appropriate so your HU is secured right. Note that once you have the sleeve in it will become difficult to release the tabs on the 99-9104 to remove the assembly so make sure you don't want to take it out again right away. Push the 99-9104 into the dash until the side clips pop in. It should be _secure_ and flush with the rest of the centre stack. If it isn't, try seeing if anything is blocking it or if it's not lined up right. 
Connect up your HU again and ensure everything is working a second time, _before_ you push and lock it into the dash. 
Once you're satisfied with everything, now it's time to finalise the HU install. When pushing back the HU make sure your thingamajig and RCAs and any other wires are not going to get pinched or prevent your head unit from sliding all the way in. I strongly recommend making sure you keep the wires and modules away from the cardholder area behind the dash. If you don't you will jam the card holder with the wires and won't be able to eject it and/or push it back in once you have ejected it.







Place your trim ring (if applicable) on your HU and TADAA! You're all done!















[Will insert a pic of my finished dash later, sorry can't find these right now, lol].
That's it for the HU install, next up will be speakers!


_Modified by Audi'sRevenge at 12:19 PM 9/23/2009_


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## Audi'sRevenge (Mar 24, 2008)

*Speakers*

So today we move on to
*AFTERMARKET FRONT SPEAKER INSTALL*:
_My equipment of choice here was a semi-homebrewed set of Focal Polyglass components—older TN45 tweeters and a set of crossover modules from a 165V set, and a new pair of 165V2S mids to go along with them. I got the TN45s used for really cheap off a car audio forum classified listing, I had the crossovers left over from my other car which has the older 165V set (that car had them bi-amped so I never used the passives), and I got genuine 165V2S mids from a site called Zalytron where these mids can be bought separately for $128 US/pair + shipping. Again, feel free to use whatever gear you like. As a general recommendation, if you’re buying a complete component set and are looking to spend less than $200 though, you may as well go with Phoenix Gold RSd components which go for about $90 US and sound like they cost much more._
*Prelim*:
To begin, realise that your A3 speaker mounting depth capability (in the front doors at least) is rather large, huge in fact compared to many other vehicles. This is a good thing as it essentially puts no limits on speaker selection within the particular size class (6.5” or 7”). To explain this, you have a whopping 2” of depth _available_ before you even get to the door metal, between the interior panel and the start of the metal door. Then you have the depth from there to the window/window track. I can’t remember what the remainder is but it’s probably another 1 to 1.5 inches. Higher end speakers (which often require ~3” of depth or so) are fair game and not hard to fit at all.
The doors in these German cars are, as previously stated in Ryan’s thread (see below), both very well built and very well sealed. Sealing the front wave off from the back wave of a speaker (the air it pushes in either direction) is actually _very_ important for sound quality, and this is something you don’t have to worry much about at all because VAG has done it so well from the factory. Also given the door’s solidness you don’t really have to use a damping material like Dynamat, Raamat, etc. either. You still can, and normally I would recommend you do, but just as Ryan said you don’t really need to. I didn’t either and I was quite surprised with the results. It sounds just as good with nothing additional as my older car does, and that car has two layers of Raamat60 on each of the inner and outer door “skins” in the door! 
Onward to construction…
*Baffles*:
Despite the mention of depth above, note that you _will_ have to make baffles for your speakers unless you want to destroy the OE speakers. This is because the OE speaker is integral to the speaker OE speaker baffle/housing, making it one complete assembly. That is, the OE thing doubles as the basket for the speaker and the surround is also glued around the frame of it. I didn’t take pictures of what I’m talking about but it’s clearly explained/shown on Ryan’s thread here:
http://forums.fourtitude.com/zerothread?id=2496707
Destroying this thing doesn’t really make that much sense to me (especially when I may return the car at the end of the lease in my case, lol) and it seems like a bit of a hassle too. Also mounting a speaker in the OE ring (after destroying the speaker) seems like a little too flimsy a mount in my personal opinion. I recommend making your own baffles from MDF or polycarbonate (Lexan) or acrylic (Plexiglas) instead. 
I recommend the plastics over MDF since it’s waterproof (read: uncoated MDF will water rot in a door application over time); but plastic is harder to get and more expensive. I ended up using MDF for mine because I did them in a bit of a rush and it was a weekend when the plastic suppliers were not open. If you use polycarbonate I believe standard drill bits and saw blades for cutting wood will work; acrylic you need special bits or you’ll crack the plexi IIRC. Polycarbonate is also much stronger than acrylic but that’s not really an issue here and either will work. What I did with mine, since I ended up using MDF, was paint them with black rubberised rockerguard paint. They seem to be sealed well enough to be considered water resistant and should last a long time. You can also use the old installers’ trick of coating MDF with [fiberglass] resin which will waterproof them. 
If you want to get to the depth of the original speaker baffle you actually need, as mentioned, 2” of material—quite thick! So you would need to use 1” x 2 (double it up). Since my local Home Depot did not have 1” thick MDF, I went with 3/4" and it was still more than enough to mount my Focal 165V2S mids without interfering with the window or anything. 
You can buy pre-made MDF “speaker rings” for 6.5” speakers in .75” (or 1”) thickness, but you can only use those for the “top” layer of your baffle since you need the bottom part custom so you can screw it into the door. Since you’ll be cutting your material anyway, you might as well make your second ring, but if you want to buy them that’s fine too.
For the next parts of this you will need to know how to remove your door panel to gain access to your factory speaker assembly. Instead of me explaining how to do this, please use this helpful write up from fellow Fourtitude member, xt0rted








http://forums.fourtitude.com/zerothread?id=2689982
Your OE speaker assembly is as easy to remove as undoing 3 screws and unclipping the wire harness on top.
Unfortunately due to the rush I was in making the baffles I never did take pictures of them while constructing







What you need to do is essentially this:
i. Take your OE speaker/housing and place it on top of your baffle material. Trace around it to get the identical shape including what I call the “mouse ears” that form the points where the screws go through. You need two of these, one for each door. This will form the bottom section of the baffle. If you need no more depth than this you can skip the next step but it’s likely you will need more…
ii. Make a second shape, the same as above except do NOT copy the “mouse ear” points and instead leave these out of your tracing. This will resemble more of the familiar standard speaker ring. What you do where these points are on the base baffle is you cut them slightly into the wood sort of like a concave or reverse of the mouse ear mounting point. The reason you do this is so you can fit the screw and your screwdriver into that area without being impeded by the ring on top. Again you need two of these, one for each door.
Here is a picture (this is a completed picture, sorry, but if you look at the top right mounting screw on the self-made baffle, you should be able to see what I mean):








If you used a pre-made speaker ring, you can use that instead of (ii.) above.
For the centre cutouts for the speaker to fit you will have to pay attention to the “Cutout Diameter” specification on the specific model speakers you are using. This diameter is not actually totally universal for all 6.5” speakers as you might think, so check your speaker specs before drawing your circles. Some speakers come with templates so you can easily trace them onto your material for cutting. Make sure that you are making these circles _centred_ in your baffles!
Cut your baffles out (I used a simple jigsaw but if you have more advanced tools then certainly use those). 
Use a scriber, centre-punch, pencil, marker, or similar tool to mark the location of where your screws will go through on your baffle, from the OE baffle, on the mouse ear portions. Drill these holes out (no need to actually have the screw grip the baffle, it can just go through it). Note that since you’re now drilling through what is either .75” or 1” material, the original screws (which only had to go through the thin “mouse ear” portion of the OE speaker assembly) will no longer work for you. You will need to get some longer screws with a similar thread/size to the OE ones to secure your baffles. I couldn’t find anything at all with the same thread but I used some other tapping screws and found they worked perfectly (will post the size later). 
Test your baffles for fit both with your speaker and the door. Make sure the speaker drops into the cutout properly and that it can sit flat/seal against the cutout properly (make sure the cutout is not too large). Also make sure that the holes you made to secure it to the door actually line up with the holes in the door. If not you will need to correct this issue.
You will now need to secure your baffle “halves” together. If you used MDF then you can easily use wood glue or Liquid Nails and you probably won’t need anything further (I didn’t). If you used plastic I would imagine silicone would be in order and you may want to drive screws through (offset from the speaker screw locations) to secure the top ring to the bottom baffle along with the silicone. You will need to use countersinking screws and drill the pilot holes out for countersinking, because the speaker will be mounting on top of these. Alternately (or even additionally) you could use long enough screws to mount the speakers that the screws would go through the speaker and both parts of the baffle therefore “auto-securing” it together. 
Speaking of pilot holes, be sure to drill those into your top rings according to the screw locations on your speakers, for the screws you will be using to secure them. If you do not drill pilot holes in MDF it will likely just be harder to drive the screws through it, if you don’t drill holes in plastic you’ll get that _and_ you’ll also probably crack the plastic. 
Once assembled your top ring and bottom baffle should form as much (or almost as much) depth as the factory assembly, and should be properly bonded and sealed speaking of the two halves. 
If you used MDF, waterproof your baffles by painting them or coating them with resin. Make sure you coat the entire thing, with particular regards to the back where it mounts to the door as this is where the water/moisture will be coming from. Obviously wait for this to dry/cure.
You can then mount your speaker in the baffle and leave it like that as you will then just mount the whole assembly to the door. You will need to do your wiring of course, but we’ll cover that in a moment. When mounting your speaker to the baffle I recommend using a sealing gasket around it. Most speakers will come with some kind of foam gasket, so use that if you get it with your speakers. If not, use some closed-cell EPDM foam tape (see below).
*Putting your new speaker assembly in the door*:
To ensure the _same good seal_ that came from the factory, do the following things:
i. In the OE speaker there is a mount point at the top of it which plugs into a hole on the door. Since your new baffle will not, you need to cover this hole up. Tape is fine to do this, I just used some electrical tape.
ii. You need to use a gasket material. I used EPDM closed-cell foam tape (stuff you use around doors/windows in the home for insulation/sealing). You can get this at your local hardware store. Put the foam tape _on the door_ not on the baffle. The reason is that if the speaker baffle shifts around slightly just from normal vehicle movement and forces, the foam tape will wear the paint underneath the speaker baffle. By putting the foam on the door you avoid this. The baffle will be firmly secured to the door but this is just a precaution. Also make your foam tape around the hole in the door rather than the shape of the baffle. This will ensure there is no air leak due to the screws that go through the baffle (the ones that mount it to the door).
Here is what your gasket will look like:









Here is my completed baffle, mounted in the door, with the speaker:








*Wiring*: 
Okay so now that that^ is all out of the way, you’re probably thinking “uh great I got my speaker in the door but now it’s connected to nothing” LOL. Don’t fret, here’s the wiring info








(Note: Some of the pictures here alternate randomly between the passenger and driver door, so don’t get confused!)
If you are going to be using HU power to drive your speakers, then you will probably just stick with the factory wiring. The issues here are that you have to figure out what is + and - , and the fact that the factory wire connects on the _outside_ of the speaker instead of inside the door/behind the speaker. I did figure out which was + and - manually as I did run my speakers off the HU for a couple months, but I can’t remember which was which now, sorry. The best way to do this is to use a DMM and check for continuity when you have the head unit out, at the harness and at the speaker connector. As for the speaker wire, since I was only using HU power in the short term, I just used a very light gauge wire (18 gauge I think) for that short run from the connector to the speaker, and ran that wire sandwiched between the baffle and the door. Obviously this isn’t really something you want to do on a long-term/permanent basis, so I advise you re-route the wire into the door so it can connect to the back of the speaker. 
If you’ve gone the smart route, lol, and decided to amp your speakers you will have to get the wire through the door wiring channel/snake/conduit/whateveryouwanttocallit and this proves time consuming and finger fatiguing and downright frustrating if nothing else.
To do this you will have your kick panel plastic trim removed in order to route your wires (the amp write up below will take you up to here). From this point it’s a matter of getting those wires through. I recommend a maximum of 14 gauge wire or 12 gauge wire with a _thin_ jacket on it for getting through the conduit. I used 12 gauge speaker wire that was “twisted pair” and then in a secondary clear outer jacket to hold the wires twisted together. Because of the design the manufacturer used a pretty thin jacket/insulation on the wires inside so I was able to use 12 gauge successfully and just barely at that. Any thicker and the wire would not have gone through where I put it.
When you open your door you will see the snake like rubber hose thing that is the conduit leading from the kick panel interior to the door. Do yourself a favour and do NOT do what I initially did—just pulling on the rubber boot ends of the conduit. This works fine on some cars, not so much on this one. There are plastic collars at the end of the boots which have to come out as well. If you just pull the boot it becomes incredibly difficult (if not impossible) to re-install the boot without removing that collar, so you have to remove it anyway. There’s no point is pulling the rubber off that at all as it just makes problems for you! 
The tricky part, of course is removing that collar from the *door side*. The collar is oblong in shape and there are four retainer tabs (top, bottom, and the sides) that hold it into the door. You have to push these tabs in from the _inside of the door_. Sounds easy enough until you realise just how little space there is inside the door to get your hand to do that. You may want to be prepared for cutting/scraping up your hand here, lol. 
Here is what it looks like, removed from the door:








It’s one of those things where if you push out one side the other will stay and you won’t be able to get it out; but at the same time it’s nearly impossible to get both tabs squeezed in at the same time, in order to push it out! A real catch-22 :| 
What I found was it was easy enough to push the bottom and side tabs with your hand but the top one was just about impossible. You can see the top tab I’m talking about pointed to by the screwdriver in the above picture. What I found was easiest to do was to get a long flatheat (slot) screwdriver and remove the grommet in the door as shown (note: this is the driver door).








With that grommet removed maneuver your screwdriver to hit the top tab and try to push it down. Get the other tabs with your fingers and eventually you should be able to pop it out as shown above.
Now that you’ve got that out, you need to deal with the *vehicle side*. The vehicle side was much easier as I recall and this is what it looks like inside (notice the four clips on the sides):








Note however that in the above pic of the snake I have the entire connector removed. It will _not_ just come out like that. You remove the boot with collar first, and then pull it back. 
If you notice, there is some purple plastic on that harness plug in the picture. There is a matching purple part on the vehicle end (again this is the driver’s side):








This is a type of CPA lock (Connector Positive Assurance) that prevents the connector from dislodging itself from the other end. You need to release the CPA lock in order to pull it apart as shown. To do this you have to push that purple part on top of the connector, IIRC you slide it towards the front of the car, but I can’t remember 100% right now and it could have been opposite on the other door (I can’t really remember). But you do have to release that before the connector will let go anyway.
Once more these pics are more of “after” shots as you can see I already have the wire in there. If you pay careful attention you will see that the speaker wire I ran goes underneath that connector. If you look at the harness face on the vehicle side once you have the connector removed you will notice there is a very small gap of free space below the connector. _This_ is where you have to run your wire through. It will become apparent now why I was stressing the size of the wire before because if it is 12 gauge with a heavy insulation/jacket or anything larger it will _not_ likely fit through there. 
Continued...


_Modified by Audi'sRevenge at 12:38 PM 9/24/2009_


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## Audi'sRevenge (Mar 24, 2008)

*Speakers, con't (tweeters)*

Once you put your wire through there it will go directly into the vehicle side of the snake. On the door side you will notice there is an interior rubber sleeve that goes down the wire and it’s also taped around at the end (this is for maximum water resistance). You will need to undo the tape in order to “find” your wires on the other side. Push your speaker wire through and then into the door through the hole for the snake.
There, _almost_ done… Leave the conduit undone for a minute and go to the speaker/door cavity. It’s not over yet, because getting the wire down to the speaker is another chore unfortunately. You’re not going to get your hand in where the wire comes down to where you need it so just fish it on in there until you can grab the wire. There is a white clip on that goes through the door from the inside and is accessible from the outside (where you are) as shown here:








If you remove this (simply squeeze with a pliers or similar) it makes it much easier. That clip as well as this one:








You will notice in the above there is a clip that ties that factory wire to the metal part there. Don’t try removing the wire from the clip, instead just pull that clip off the metal as shown. Route your wire and replace both clips. In doing this you’ll make your life easier and ensure the speaker wire is routed so it can’t come in contact with the window mechanism.
Phew! Once that is all done you’ll now have that wire through there, your hand all messed up, and it will be like hours later, lol. Connect up your speaker using crimps/terminals or what have you and attach the assembly to the car using three new screws mentioned in the baffles section. Another word about waterproofing! I recommend you do something to shield or protect water from getting on to your speaker terminals inside the door. Tape them around well, use insulspray if possible, use a anti-rust oil spray on the terminals, etc. _Something_ other than leaving them exposed to water which will cause them to corrode. 
Now replace the tape on the inside of the door side of the snake where the wires come through, leaving only _just_ enough slack in the wire so as not to have too much wire moving around inside the door. Replace the collar by popping it back in (MUCH easier than getting it out!). Plug the connector back into the vehicle side and don’t forget to lock the CPA again. Pop that side back in too. Replace that grommet you removed to get at the tab on the collar (if you haven’t already). TADAA!







:








If you have a crossover in the case of a component set, go ahead and wire it up. Here’s what mine looked like:








Note that my crossover was too large to mount in the extremely limited space in the factory “kick” area. I mounted my crossovers underneath the glovebox assembly on the pax side (under the lower most portion with the square holes in it, the xover just sits wedged on top of there); and under the dash near the steering column on the driver’s side. Remember to set your tweeter attenuation if applicable/desired before concealing them. Given my other car was bi-amped I forgot to do this in this install and then realised the tweeters were way too bright and had to remove the xovers and set the attenuation switch.
Reverse your door panel removal and you’re finally done installing your aftermarket mid (mid*s* when you complete the other door, lol). Peek through the grille to admire a job well done:








*Tweeters*:
No we’re not done yet! You’ve got your mid in there but now what about your tweeters?








Just FYI, like most car maker implementations of separate tweeters, the factory tweeters use a simple single inline capacitor for a crossover. The two disadvantages to quality here are that it’s only 6dB/octave slope and there’s a 90deg phase shift as well. The cap is located right on the back of the tweeter itself. 
You can easily use the factory location for your aftermarket tweeters, though you may have to find an alternate way to secure them given they are about 1.5” tweeters. Luckily Focal tweeters are the same size _and_ I actually ran into something that made it even easier if you keep reading.
To remove the A-pillar trim you need to pull it out (straight with respect to the pillar), pretty simple. It’s clipped just like most of the other trim in these cars. The trick is that one of the clips has a slider so once you get the top ones out the other one you kinda pull up and out at the same time. I recommend you do a few things here:
i. Unless you have Ti package, wear clean gloves or make sure your hands are clean _each and every time_ you go to touch the pillar (and the headliner for that matter). It is very easy to stain up the retarded white headliner with fingerprints, etc. from dirty hands or tools. Use extra caution to keep these parts clean!
ii. Use a trim panel remover to access and release the clips once you’ve pulled the pillar trim out from the pillar enough to fit it in there. Otherwise you risk breaking the parts of the pillar trim that hold the clips in or cracking the trim entirely.
iii. Use caution as there is an airbag in the pillar and up along the side of the headliner! (The side curtain bag.) Be especially careful when replacing the pillar because you do NOT want to pinch, or rip/tear that airbag with the clips. That would be a very costly mistake!
Once you’ve pulled out the pillar trim notice that the tweeter is still “holding on” with its wire connector. Release that.
Now you’ve removed the pillar trim, good stuff:
















Take a look at the back of your pillar now and see the tweeter assembly:








You will notice that the tweeter holds in a “track” of sorts and there are tabs around the tweeter (black plastic) that meet up with “stops” in the track on the pillar. (You can see these in the final tweeter pic below.) You need to depress the one tab on the tweeter with a screwdriver, that prevents the tweeter from being turned anti-clockwise. Once you do that you can then turn it and remove the tweeter assembly.
The next part is a bit more delicate and should only be attempted if you think that your tweeter will fit in the tweeter extension (the protrusion of the tweeter that mates up with the grille in the pillar trim). I found that my Focal tweeter was nearly a perfect fit for this when pulled apart!








If you would like to separate your factory tweeter you will need to cut through (or remove) the green Blaupunkt label on the tweeter. The extension “tube” is held to the tweeter by four tabs and glue. You need to insert a flat thin object to separate them like a putty knife or similar. However in doing this you need to be _very_ careful if you don’t want to damage the factory tweeter. Because the factory tweeter dome is right inside that line of separation if you push too hard on your knife or whatever, you can puncture or rip the tweeter dome. Therefore keep the knife on the outer ridge just to separate the glue. 
Tweeter assembly, separated:








Careful now, with your OE tweeters. Now that the dome is exposed it’s very easy to damage them. They seem to be cloth/fabric grille so they are more forgiving than other tweeter types, but it’s best to put them in a box/drawer at this point where they won’t get damaged accidentally.
Taking a look at the tweeter extension on its own you can see the four tabs that hold it to the tweeter (these aren’t too obvious when it’s assembled so this may help you in disassembly):








The TN45 Focal tweeter has a groove in it which I was able to fit with the tabs on the extension part of the factory tweeter. This is how I got my near-perfect fit…








You can see there is a gap and the tabs are stressed but it holds fine and it retains the factory tweeter angle 100%.








Run the wire for your tweeter (just fish it down through the side there and you’ll find it on the other end in the kick area no problem) and connect it up to your xover module or wherever you’re connecting it to. Reverse the removal of tweeter assembly and pillar and remember to take care with that airbag! 
*Finally* you are done installing your front component set!








Stay tuned for running your amps!


_Modified by Audi'sRevenge at 12:47 PM 9/24/2009_


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## hesimo69 (Mar 25, 2007)

GREAT WRITEUP!!! you definetly helped me out!!


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## xxplosive656 (Sep 10, 2009)

Definitely some great info here. Nice writeup!
I had a new system installed professionally in my A3, but for some reason they could not get the PAC SWI-CAN2 to work with the canbus system. Apparently whenever they tried to, say, increase the volume one notch it would basically continue to increase the volume until it reached max (same if you wanted to lower the volume). Changing tracks would also cause the HU to keep changing tracks non-stop. Assuming the module might be defective the installers tried using a Perhephial brand SWI-CAN2 they had in the shop but it did the same thing. They tried troubleshooting it with PAC tech support but eventually they came to the conclusion that the canbus command set in my car was not compatible with the CAN2.
For all I know it could have been a bull**** excuse for something they couldn't figure out, but I don't know. Has anyone with an '07 A3 been able to get the SWI-CAN2 to work?


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## Audi'sRevenge (Mar 24, 2008)

Putting another placeholder in here for amps...


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## Audi'sRevenge (Mar 24, 2008)

*Re: (Audi'sRevenge)*

One more due to me requiring two for speakers


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## Audi'sRevenge (Mar 24, 2008)

*Re: (xxplosive656)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hesimo69* »_GREAT WRITEUP!!! you definetly helped me out!!


_Quote, originally posted by *xxplosive656* »_Definitely some great info here. Nice writeup!

Thanks







Turning into something pretty lengthy though, I didn't really think it would take this much room! Hopefully it helps people out!

_Quote, originally posted by *xxplosive656* »_I had a new system installed professionally in my A3, but for some reason they could not get the PAC SWI-CAN2 to work with the canbus system. Apparently whenever they tried to, say, increase the volume one notch it would basically continue to increase the volume until it reached max (same if you wanted to lower the volume). Changing tracks would also cause the HU to keep changing tracks non-stop. Assuming the module might be defective the installers tried using a Perhephial brand SWI-CAN2 they had in the shop but it did the same thing. They tried troubleshooting it with PAC tech support but eventually they came to the conclusion that the canbus command set in my car was not compatible with the CAN2.

Ah yes this is exactly what happened to me _at first_ but it was only volume and only volume UP at that. First time I tried it, it just jammed on repeat volume up command and I watched in horror as the volume went up uncontrollably. Good thing for me was it was on a blank source, no audio. It would be less funny for someone that had a CD playing or similar. 
After it did that I just stopped and did the programming again and the next time around it stuck (meaning it worked properly, lol). I even programmed it again later when I wanted to change one of the functions and it programmed fine again. 
When they programmed it did they follow the directions which say if you have scroll wheels to scroll 3-4 "clicks" when programming each command? Also did they have everything off in the vehicle as I mentioned? (Doors closed, windows up, climate control off, etc.)? Other signals on the CAN bus can mess up the learning process.

_Quote, originally posted by *xxplosive656* »_For all I know it could have been a bull**** excuse for something they couldn't figure out, but I don't know. Has anyone with an '07 A3 been able to get the SWI-CAN2 to work?

Funny enough it was the 06-07s which were known to work with the CAN2 and the 08s that people had complained about problems with, in my original research last year. I think your case is not that it's not compatible with your year A3, I think it's just that you (or the shop) have to try programming it again (maybe a few times) until you get it working right. Given I had something very similar happen to me, I think it's just a quirk of getting the initial programming right. Therafter, it should work great


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## xxplosive656 (Sep 10, 2009)

*Re: (Audi'sRevenge)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Audi’sRevenge* »_
Thanks







Turning into something pretty lengthy though, I didn't really think it would take this much room! Hopefully it helps people out!

Ah yes this is exactly what happened to me _at first_ but it was only volume and only volume UP at that. First time I tried it, it just jammed on repeat volume up command and I watched in horror as the volume went up uncontrollably. Good thing for me was it was on a blank source, no audio. It would be less funny for someone that had a CD playing or similar. 
After it did that I just stopped and did the programming again and the next time around it stuck (meaning it worked properly, lol). I even programmed it again later when I wanted to change one of the functions and it programmed fine again. 
When they programmed it did they follow the directions which say if you have scroll wheels to scroll 3-4 "clicks" when programming each command? Also did they have everything off in the vehicle as I mentioned? (Doors closed, windows up, climate control off, etc.)? Other signals on the CAN bus can mess up the learning process.

Funny enough it was the 06-07s which were known to work with the CAN2 and the 08s that people had complained about problems with, in my original research last year. I think your case is not that it's not compatible with your year A3, I think it's just that you (or the shop) have to try programming it again (maybe a few times) until you get it working right. Given I had something very similar happen to me, I think it's just a quirk of getting the initial programming right. Therafter, it should work great









They went by the instructions provided by PAC Audio that were specific to the A3. I don't know whether they turned everything off but I'm assuming they didn't. If anything they probably had the AC on since it would be unbearable to work in the car in the Florida heat. I'm disappointed they didn't think of this but it gives me hope that I can still salvage the steering wheel controls. I've already returned both the CAN2 and JACK modules so I'll probably give this another shot sometime later this year.
Got two questions...
1. Where does the CAN2 actually link up with the car? Would you mind providing a pic or two of how you have it hooked up?
2. Where did you mount the crossover for the driver door speakers? The only place I could find enough space to mount mine was on this support-beam thing a couple of inches behind the headlight controls next to the steering wheel column. It works for the time being but the fuse box next to it seems to introduce audible interference. The left tweeter emits a very faint buzzing noise whenever I turn on the headlights or hit the brakes.


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## Audi'sRevenge (Mar 24, 2008)

*Re: (xxplosive656)*


_Quote, originally posted by *xxplosive656* »_
They went by the instructions provided by PAC Audio that were specific to the A3. I don't know whether they turned everything off but I'm assuming they didn't. If anything they probably had the AC on since it would be unbearable to work in the car in the Florida heat.

Well I guess it's not necessary to have the windows closed, just don't operate them while programming it. The climate controls though I would turn off completely because with the unit requesting the OAT from the car as well as it adjusting the fan speed automatically (it does this sometimes even if you take over manually) might send messages back and forth that might cause you problems. Though obviously a lot more stuff goes over the CAN bus just to run the car, it's a lot better to have it minimised--the stuff you can turn off, definitely turn it off. The engine will be off as well so that would minimise transmissions I'd imagine. 

_Quote, originally posted by *xxplosive656* »_I'm disappointed they didn't think of this but it gives me hope that I can still salvage the steering wheel controls. I've already returned both the CAN2 and JACK modules so I'll probably give this another shot sometime later this year.

I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work. As I said it might just take you a few tries. Since you're also using a JACK I'd imagine you have either a JVC, Alpine, Clarion or Kenwood HU? I've got Kenwood in mine (DDX812) and it's been working fine ever since I did the programming right.

_Quote, originally posted by *xxplosive656* »_Got two questions...
1. Where does the CAN2 actually link up with the car? Would you mind providing a pic or two of how you have it hooked up?

There's just two wires that pertain the the CAN bus. The other two wires are just +B (power) and ground. The two CAN wires hook up to the main harness. There's two points in the Quadlock that are for CAN bus. "CAN High" and "CAN Low". If you look at the pic I posted above of the factory HU and the pinout you will see these as "CAN/H" and "CAN/L". The SWI-CAN2 describes these as "CAN +" and "CAN -", respectively, IIRC. But they connect up just like that









_Quote, originally posted by *xxplosive656* »_2. Where did you mount the crossover for the driver door speakers? The only place I could find enough space to mount mine was on this support-beam thing a couple of inches behind the headlight controls next to the steering wheel column. It works for the time being but the fuse box next to it seems to introduce audible interference. The left tweeter emits a very faint buzzing noise whenever I turn on the headlights or hit the brakes.

That's an odd thing that noise gets introduced like that. I made sure to listen very carefully with the engine on, accessories on (like the fan, lights, etc.) and I was sure to get no noises induced. I was actually listening for a possible ground loop (which thankfully I did not have) and not noise introduced into the xovers, but in any event I'm "clean".
I put the driver side crossover module right above the lower part of the dash, which is right under the steering column (and right above your feet). I removed that trim part there and just stuck it in there in a place where it would both fit and not move. It's closer to the steering column, far enough away from the fusebox I guess. 
Hope that helps!


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## xxplosive656 (Sep 10, 2009)

Found a new place to mount the crossover! I have it velcro'ed up against the firewall immediately to the right of the cable conduit that goes through the firewall and to the left of the brake pedal. It's far up enough to where I would really have to bend down to look for it, but it's still reasonably accessible. Most importantly the noise is gone!


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