# Inline fuse



## jun_1.8T (Oct 31, 2003)

Wanting to put an inline fuse fir my dual 400c compressors. What amp should i use for each?

Also...what or how is the best way to put a kill switch for my compressors just in case.

Thanks!


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Use a 40A for each compressor. 

Kill switches depend on your type of management, what do you have again?


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## jun_1.8T (Oct 31, 2003)

Im using the switchspeed. 

I was thinking of doing either of these...lemme know which will work best or if you have better one

1. Put a toggle switch inline with the 2 grounds of the compressors.

2. Put like a 3A switch inline with the yellow(comp1) wire from the ECU.

....thoughts???


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## OVRWRKD (Jul 1, 2010)

jun_1.8T said:


> Im using the switchspeed.
> 
> I was thinking of doing either of these...lemme know which will work best or if you have better one
> 
> ...


 Do number 2, the inline with the comp yellow wire.


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## jun_1.8T (Oct 31, 2003)

Just wanna confirm my wiring for my stinger relay with my switchspeed. BTW....the fused distribution block is for my 2 compressors. Also is it fine if i move the red(12v) wire straight to the battery(main) distribution block? I just wanna make it cleaner

TIA!


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## FlybyGLI (Jun 20, 2008)

jun_1.8T said:


> Just wanna confirm my wiring for my stinger relay with my switchspeed. BTW....the fused distribution block is for my 2 compressors. Also is it fine if i move the red(12v) wire straight to the battery(main) distribution block? I just wanna make it cleaner
> 
> TIA!


Isn't the compressor power wire supposed to go to one of the top posts? Or maybe that is just for V2

As far as fuse, the max amp draw on a 400cc compressor is 26 amps (that is rounded up). Max amp draw according to viair for two is 51 (I would round to 52). Most electrical experts will tell you to not exceed 80% of the maximum amperage of both your relay and fuse. I would use a 75amp-100amp inline fuse to use with your 80amp stinger. I personally use a 75amp.


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## BIG_ANT (Mar 3, 2007)

Also, put the fuse under the hood no more than 18" of cable length from the battery. You should ALWAYS fuse power wires coming from the battery. 


Sent from my coconut carrying Swallow. African or European?


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## connoisseurr (Jan 18, 2008)

I've posted this before, maybe this can be of some help. My wiring diagram from eLevel. Also, BIG_ANT's remarks regarding fusing your main power lead from battery is a very good piece of advice. You definitely want that inline fuse in the engine bay.


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## jun_1.8T (Oct 31, 2003)

connoisseurr said:


> I've posted this before, maybe this can be of some help. My wiring diagram from eLevel. Also, BIG_ANT's remarks regarding fusing your main power lead from battery is a very good piece of advice. You definitely want that inline fuse in the engine bay.


Oh for sure the main power from the battery has an inline fuse just beside the battery itself. I just did not bother taking a pic of that line.

So i see that you also fused the red(12v) line from the ECU. Aren't the 2 fuses from the wiring harness covers both the yellow and red wires?

Lastly...would a grounding point from a body panel(ie. trunk floor) be good enough?. And of course i would sand that spot down to bare metal.


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## connoisseurr (Jan 18, 2008)

jun_1.8T said:


> So i see that you also fused the red(12v) line from the ECU. Aren't the 2 fuses from the wiring harness covers both the yellow and red wires?
> 
> Lastly...would a grounding point from a body panel(ie. trunk floor) be good enough?. And of course i would sand that spot down to bare metal.


Your first question doesn't make sense, ask it again. Also you said "from" the wiring harness when you should be saying "to". Always speak in the correct tense when relating to the flow of electricity.

Ground point can be any metal surface that is capable if making a 100% conductive connection. Your idea will work, just make sure you sand it down smooth.


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## jun_1.8T (Oct 31, 2003)

connoisseurr said:


> Your first question doesn't make sense, ask it again. Also you said "from" the wiring harness when you should be saying "to". Always speak in the correct tense when relating to the flow of electricity.


I guess i got you confused the way i asked the question. On your diagram above, i see that the the e-level red(12v) wire coming from the ECU goes into a fused distro block correct? What im asking is, doesnt the wiring harness from accuair has the 2 inline fuses connected both to the yellow(comp) and red(12v) wires? Look at this pic:









...so on your diagram the red(12v) wire will be fused twice?


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## connoisseurr (Jan 18, 2008)

jun_1.8T said:


> I guess i got you confused the way i asked the question. On your diagram above, i see that the the e-level red(12v) wire coming from the ECU goes into a fused distro block correct? What im asking is, doesnt the wiring harness from accuair has the 2 inline fuses connected both to the yellow(comp) and red(12v) wires? Look at this pic:
> ic:
> 
> ...so on your diagram the red(12v) wire will be fused twice?


Yes, that's correct. I will begin with a double fused line - if I have issues, I will drop the fuse that inline fuse that comes provided from Accuair.

Also that yellow wire "COMP_1" is an ignition lead to kick the compressor relays on. The power still comes from my fused distribution block.


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## Punjabi_Dubber (Mar 28, 2008)

Is there a particular reason your using two 40a relays in addition to the stinger 80a relay? Its redundant. 

Also in your case, the ecu has no power unless your key is in the ignition which can be a problem for iLevel if your planning on doing it. 

Most people wire it this way and use the compressor ignition wire from the ECU in place of the 12V switched ignition wire. Eliminates the need for two additonal relays.


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## connoisseurr (Jan 18, 2008)

Punjabi_Dubber said:


> Is there a particular reason your using two 40a relays in addition to the stinger 80a relay? Its redundant.
> 
> Also in your case, the ecu has no power unless your key is in the ignition which can be a problem for iLevel if your planning on doing it.
> 
> ...


Who are you asking, OP or myself?


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## Punjabi_Dubber (Mar 28, 2008)

connoisseurr said:


> Who are you asking, OP or myself?


Yourself, sorry i should have been more clear.


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## connoisseurr (Jan 18, 2008)

Punjabi_Dubber said:


> Yourself, sorry i should have been more clear.


No worries - my reasons are as such:

The Stinger Relay is the one providing power and ignition to my entire wiring system in my trunk. Power will not even reach my fused distribution block unless the key is turned. My fused distribution block has a built in volt meter and current flow gauge - if the stinger fails, I will know. 

Each compressor relay is present to provide and initiate power to each compressor. Redundancy to keep things more organized and separate. Power comes from the fused dist. block into *30* on the compressor relay. Ignition comes from the yellow wire which is attached to the ECU harness. 

I come from a networking background, electrical engineering, and am quite familiar with wiring - redundancy is the most important thing you could have in this case. I have a spare Stinger relay, a spare VIAIR relay, and many fuses on hand so I will never be down and out when it comes to power.


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