# 2000 Audi TT Won't Start



## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

So long story short I moved my TT onto the grass yesterday. It started fine, and I have not had issues with it starting before. Well I came back a few hours later and It fired a few times and then died. I tried to start it again and again. On the third attempt it would only turn over not fire. I have a basic OBD-II reader, I have had a P0422 code for a while so I know it needs a O2 sensor or CAT. I don't have a copy of VAG-Com, I did order a copy and it should be in this week. I also tried to start the car again today with the same results. I can hear the fuel pump so I don't think that is the problem. I think the problem is the crank position sensor. The only other thing that comes to mind is I recently pulled the ecu to check if my car has a solder in chip. My car since I bought it has always pulled about 17psi of boost. I installed a Forge DV to replace the Bosch one. I don't know whom chipped it. The previous owner did not know much about the car. It does not pull any over boost codes, and does not have a resistor on the MAP sensor. Hopefully when VAG-Com comes it will shed some light on things. Any input on suggestions would be welcome. If anyone is in the Waterford, Ontario area that has time I would like to get this running asap. I have cold beer :beer:.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

P0422 wouldn't keep it from cranking. Without some other diagnostic work, anyone would just be guessing.


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

The P0422 is a old code and does not keep it from running. It can either be the O2 sensors or the CAT to my understanding. The cat's on the car have been done at some point in time though. They have been cut and crudely welded in. It cranks great but only fired the first time you try. I'm leaning towards the CPS. I don't expect my VAG-Com till the end of the week, assuming they ship it today. At least I can reprogram my key fobs to put the windows down remotely. :wave:


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

Just got my VAG-Com, and this is what it pulled up. As it turns out my car seems to think its been in a accident? I take it when I turned around in the grass lot by my house it banged something? It also says my HVAC has a short. So I now know where the short is coming from. I cleared the codes and tried to start it but the Alarm has killed the battery.:banghead: So I'm waiting for a boost.

Tuesday,29,October,2013,14:01:12:03108
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: Release 12.12.0 (x64)
Data version: 20130910


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Chassis Type: 8N - Audi TT (1999 > 2007)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 17 22 35 37 45 55 56 76 77

Mileage: 162420km/100923miles
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Address 01: Engine Labels: None
Part No: 8N0 906 018 S
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0007 
Coding: 06600
Shop #: WSC 12599 
VCID: 4189B1244B85EE16DBD-5140

No fault code found.
Readiness: 0110 0101

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Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8N0-907-379-MK20.lbl
Part No: 8N0 907 379 C
Component: ABS/EDS 20 IE CAN V003 
Coding: 13504
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: 3C77C0D02C6783FE88B-4B1A

No fault code found.

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Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8N0-820-043.lbl
Part No: 8N0 820 043 
Component: TT-KLIMAVOLLAUTOMAT D02 
Coding: 00140
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: E7DDCFBC85617026B59-2580

1 Fault Found:
00604 - Potentiometer Positioning Motor for Air Flow Flap (G113) 
29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

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Address 15: Airbags Labels: 8N8-909-601.lbl
Part No: 8N8 909 601 
Component: Airbag Front+Seite 1005 
Coding: 10102
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: F7FD9FFCD5C1E0A6259-5140

No fault code found.

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Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8Nx-919-xxx-17.lbl
Part No: 8N1 919 880 F
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. M73 D09 
Coding: 06344
Shop #: WSC 93285 
VCID: 408FB420408FE71ED43-4B00

No fault code found.

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Address 22: AWD Labels: 02D-900-554.lbl
Part No: 02D 900 554 B
Component: HALDEX LSC ECC 0006 
VCID: 1F4D175C9DB1F8E68D9-4B00

No fault code found.

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Address 35: Centr. Locks Labels: 8Nx-962-267.lbl
Part No: 8N8 962 267 A
Component: Central Lock/Alarm D04 
Coding: 15884
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: 3F8DB7DC3D7198E6AD9-4EEA

8 Faults Found:
01366 - Opened Due to Crash Signal 
35-00 - -
01371 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch; Driver's Side 
35-00 - -
01572 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch; Passenger Side 
35-00 - -
01370 - Alarm triggered by Interior Monitoring 
35-00 - -
01369 - Alarm triggered by Hood Switch 
35-00 - -
01616 - Signal Wire to Interior Monitor 
36-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
00955 - Key 1 
09-10 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed - Intermittent
00956 - Key 2 
09-10 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed - Intermittent

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Address 45: Inter. Monitor Labels: 8E0-951-177.lbl
Part No: 8N8 951 177 A
Component: Innenraumueberw. D08 
Coding: 00001
Shop #: WSC 00000 
VCID: 3D71CDD4377D8AF6BF5-519A

1 Fault Found:
01463 - Alarm triggered by Sensor for anti-theft alarm System 
35-00 - -

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Address 55: Xenon Range Labels: 4B0-907-357-AUT.lbl
Part No: 4B0 907 357 
Component: LEUCHTWEITEREGLER D003 
Coding: 00010
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: E5C1C5B47F6D6236875-5124

No fault code found.

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Address 56: Radio Labels: 8D0-035-1xx-56.lbl
Part No: 8N0 035 186 A
Component: Radio D03 
Coding: 00517
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: 2E53FA98EA1B616E36F-4B00

No fault code found.

End ---------------------------------------------------------------------


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

I got a boost and tried the car and it still won't start. Apparently you cannot clear crash data. So I guess this is from a previous accident that was not reported? Will it prevent the engine from starting if I tripped something and caused these codes? The air bags are not deployed or anything? Or do I have a bad fuel pump?


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

I ordered a fuel pump and filter. It ships out tomorrow from ECS Tuning. With any luck that's my problem. The car has 100,000mi on it now and apparently thats about when the fuel pumps fail. There are no codes besides that random one about the airbag? So all signs point to a bad fuel pump.


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Foolee said:


> I got a boost and tried the car and it still won't start. Apparently you cannot clear crash data. So I guess this is from a previous accident that was not reported? Will it prevent the engine from starting if I tripped something and caused these codes? The air bags are not deployed or anything? Or do I have a bad fuel pump?


You can clear crash data.. I had it on my car first time I read with VagCom. Once I did an Auto Scan I cleared all codes after snapping a screen shot. Performing another auto scan yielded no codes in any module. Crash alert won't stop car from starting to best of my knowledge as you likely have been driving with that DTC for some time without knowing.


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

Well I got the fuel pump today and installed it. No go, all signs pointed to the old one being bad. I have a fuel filter to put on so I guess I will change it next. I certainly hope it fixes the problem. At this stage I'm breaking the bank and will be forced to sell my car if I cannot fix it. UPS billed my a lovely $106 on top of the $30 shipping on top of the cost of a fuel pump assembly. I'll give it another scan with VCDS tomorrow if it does not rain me out. The EPC light is still on when I switch the key to the on position? The car did the samething. It started idles like crap, and then died and would not start again.


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

I ordered a engine speed sensor, I was going to get one when I bought the fuel pump. It will probably be in Tuesday. I'm changing it out while things are getting done.


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

I wouldn't have bought the fuel pump or the fuel filter until I was done diagnosing the problem. EPC usually points to a voltage problem. More recently, it has meant a bad ground, specifically the one that goes to the rear O2 sensor. See if that's shorted out or if you have any frayed wires going to the rear O2.


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

Well with limited knowledge on 1.8T's this being my first and no replys from anyone on my post its hard to diagnose a problem. I have check and have fuel at the rail. I have also check and I have spark on the cylinder closes to the cam belt. The cam belt is fine. At this stage I'm at a loss. I can't see a O2 sensor causing a no start condition. It pissing it down with rain today. I do think that sensor is bad, because I have had a code p0422. It cranks fires a couple of times and thats it. You can crank it all day and it does not even try to run. I am mechanically inclined but I have no garage and a gravel driveway. Just rebuilt the Ford 2300 in my 97 Ranger and turbocharged it. When it comes to my truck I know it inside and out. The Audi is a learning process. Unlike other forums the VW/Audi forums seem to be incredibly useless.


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

lite1979 said:


> I wouldn't have bought the fuel pump or the fuel filter until I was done diagnosing the problem. EPC usually points to a voltage problem. More recently, it has meant a bad ground, specifically the one that goes to the rear O2 sensor. See if that's shorted out or if you have any frayed wires going to the rear O2.


Just checked that, there are no signs of bad wiring, corrosion or damage. There is no moisture, infact the rear O2 looks newer and looks like it has been replaced. I got the front on stands. I'm going to fix my headlight waster aliens while I'm down there, they don't pop out.


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

lite1979 said:


> I wouldn't have bought the fuel pump or the fuel filter until I was done diagnosing the problem. EPC usually points to a voltage problem. More recently, it has meant a bad ground, specifically the one that goes to the rear O2 sensor. See if that's shorted out or if you have any frayed wires going to the rear O2.


Just checked that, there are no signs of bad wiring, corrosion or damage. There is no moisture, infact the rear O2 looks newer and looks like it has been replaced. I got the front on stands. I'm going to fix my headlight waster aliens while I'm down there, they don't pop out.


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

I'm just taking a guess here but could a plugged Cat cause a P0422? My cats are not stock, someone has done a half ass job of cutting the old ones out and welding new ones in.


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?6219070-2000-audi-tt-no-start

Not my car but same year, make, model and similar scenario . I have confirmed that the ecu can control injectors and coils. I have done a few TB alignments with the intercooler piping off. I have checked and confirmed spark, fuel, and injectors pulsing. To bad buddy did not resolve it and if he did he did not post it.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Ya that's my car. And I been following your posts as well

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

I also have fuel pressure it seems but no spark and injectors do not fire

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

I take it that you have not resolved the problem then. I currently have it in a shelter and I have been tinkering trying things all after noon. So far no dice. I'm no further ahead than I was. I think I'm going to pull all the plugs one at a time and test for spark. The plug that I pulled and tested was black with carbon and wet? Although it did fire. I wish I knew whom chipped my car and what tune it is suppose to have on it. I take it that its a stage 1 because it only pulls about 17psi.


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

Spark plugs, all four are black and stink like fuel. I have tested and I do get spark on all four coil packs when I put the plugs in them ground them to the valve cover. I also checked the plug gap which is *0.028"* The plugs are NGK Iridium # BKR6EIX


I have fuel at the rail, the injectors click when tested with VCDS. There is a small box bolted to the valve cover by cylinder #4. It has a single wire going to it and grounds on the valve cover. Does anyone have a idea what it is for. It is directly wired to the harness and the wire is starting to fray. I'll take a pic tomorrow.


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

The spark did look kinda week when I test with the coil/plugs on the valve cover. I guess I'll have to see when I get the new ESS. I think I might get a set of copper plugs as well. They are cheap enough.


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

So i'm doing more reading online to try and find some answers. Apparently VW factory ground wires suck and cause weak spark? Can anyone confirm this? Maby a grounding kit will help resolve my what seems to be a weak spark issue.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Probably not your issue. Look into you cps signal. Did you check compression? And no haven't solved it yet

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

I have a new CPS on order for the $30 + shipping I'm replacing it before the snow comes. I have not done a compression check. I'll have to call around and see if one of my buddies has one. The engine has run some high temps according to the gauge. It needs a new waterpump, it overheats when sitting in traffic. The previous owner put new e-fans on it when she owned it for what it is worth. It leaks coolant out of the plastic connector on the back of the block as of recently. I was planning to fix the coolant problem not starting issues.:facepalm: I wanted to do the timing belt and put a new waterpump on before winter but that's not looking to promising. The belt has been done. Someone at some point in time put a AWP head on my ATC block. I take it my TT was part of the famous early model timing belt failure list.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Probably. I would double checkb you didn't skip timing. And or break the belt

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

Skip timing maby but the belt is defiantly not broken. I'll have to lookup how to check timing on these motors. That reminds me a timing light is on my wish list.


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

The belt has tension on it, and no signs of missing teeth. I'll have to crank it to TDC once I figure out where the cover on the bellhousing is to see the mark on the flywheel.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

More then likely right belt your timing is fine. I would go with cps first. 

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## mr.ramsey (Apr 9, 2008)

Foolee said:


> The only other thing that comes to mind is I recently pulled the ecu to check if my car has a solder in chip.


I think there may be an issue with the ECU connection based on what you said. The good news is you are able to communicate with it through vag-com so it doesn't sound totally fried. Maybe some of the pins on the connector got screwed up?

Also, try unplugging the MAF. It wouldn't cause a no start condition but maybe it's throwing too much fuel in and "flooding" the cylinders?


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

I check the ecu again. I pulled the connectors and reset them. They are fine, no bent pins. I have not checked the maf so I'll go unplug it and give it a go.


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

No go with the maf unplugged. I can't wait till my ESS gets here. I personally think its the problem. Ever since this started it has been getting worse. This time it did not even fire. I tried cranking it 3 times.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Ess?

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

Engine Speed Sensor as VW calls it, the crank position sensor.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Ah ok. Well I know mine is good

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## peter139 (May 4, 2005)

Try your spare key, if you have.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Not going to matter 2000 didn't have a coded key

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## peter139 (May 4, 2005)

1fast2liter said:


> Not going to matter 2000 didn't have a coded key
> 
> reply typed by trained monkeys


Sorry, but mine 1999 does have a coded key (europe), i tried to help you.

Does the yellow key lights up on the cluster when you turn the key?


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## peter139 (May 4, 2005)

.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

No cause 2000 doesn't use imobilizer. Or at least hear in the us

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

I have 2x key fobs and a valet key. I get the same results with all three. I'm going up north to my uncles place for the week. I'll install the ESS Friday and post the results. I have read that 2000 US spec models did not get immo. The thing is this a Canadian spec model in fact the cluster does lot even have MPH on the speedometer. So if it has it or not idk? I would like to know I want to do a AWP ecu wideband conversion down the road.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Do you conversion just make sure it's immobilizer defeated

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

Ok will do, well it friday and no parcel? According to the tracking number it has not been picked up by UPS yet? Something fishy is going on, I'm going to have to make phone calls monday.... :screwy:


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

Well it monday and no parcel. I called ECS tuning and UPS. Apparently my parcel never made it to the depot. I take it was stolen, so they are shipping another one today.


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

I have the crank sensor installed. I and it started up on the stand. It idled a little rough, but it was running. So I pulled it off the stands and it's like I'm back to square one. When I start it up It idles rough, then dies. I'm going to have to borrow a compression tester.


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

One other thing, when I tried to start it today it had a dodgey smell that I can't quite describe. Apparently coilpacks smell when they go though. It would certainly explain things, any suggestions?


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

It's very likely you have a bad coilpack or two, or three. I like to have at least one spare at all times. If you're misfiring, it'll show up in your engine codes. Here in Buffalo they're less than $40 USD a piece. I only needed two last time, but since it had been nearly a year since the car ran last and three years since I first did them, I replaced all four. Glad to hear you're making progress!


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

lite1979 said:


> It's very likely you have a bad coilpack or two, or three. I like to have at least one spare at all times. If you're misfiring, it'll show up in your engine codes. Here in Buffalo they're less than $40 USD a piece. I only needed two last time, but since it had been nearly a year since the car ran last and three years since I first did them, I replaced all four. Glad to hear you're making progress!


I was thinking the same thing. I have replaced/done the following.

-Fuel pump replaced
-ESS/Crank Position Sensor replaced
-Coilpacks replaced
-Confirmed spark.
-Confirmed fuel at the rail.
-Plugs are black and wet?
-I have done a TB alignment and confirm functionality.
-I ran VCDS's test for engine sensors, confirming that injectors, secondary air injection, ect are functioning when told to by the ECU.
-It starts runs very rough and dies.
-There is no coolant in the oil and vice verse for signs of HG failure.
-I have checked the wiring for the rear O2 sensors.
-Checked timing/belt, seems to be find. There is plenty of tension and no signs of a bad belt or belt tensioner failure.
-I Checked the wiring at the ecu, removed and reset the connector. No signs of failure, burned electronics ect. It also responds to VCDS, no codes still?

Things I need to do.
-I have a new fuel filter that has to be put on.
-I have to do a compression test
-Check for ESS/CPS trigger wheel failure?
-Check or replace the CPS(cam position sensor) "Only other reasonable explanation?"


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

The fuel pump relay test fine on the DMM. As for the fuel filter the gear clamp is buggered and I can't get the cover off the whole way. It looks like its not getting changed out till it on a hoist. IDK I'm up for suggestions? I went to play around with VCDS today again and the battery on the netbook is dead. I'll give it another go once it's charged. So there any 1.8T Guru's in southwestern ontario that would be willing to help me out?


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

Foolee said:


> I was thinking the same thing. I have replaced/done the following.
> 
> -Fuel pump replaced
> -ESS/Crank Position Sensor replaced
> ...


Did you ever put a brand new set of plugs in that engine? Those fuel fouled plugs are going to be very difficult to fire.

Question: Has this car been sitting a long time without running? How old is the fuel in the tank? Old fuel can turn " sour " and cause a lot of problems.


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

Chickenman35 said:


> Did you ever put a brand new set of plugs in that engine? Those fuel fouled plugs are going to be very difficult to fire.
> 
> Question: Has this car been sitting a long time without running? How old is the fuel in the tank? Old fuel can turn " sour " and cause a lot of problems.


The car has been sitting, the plugs are not that old. I have been meaning to pickup a set of plugs to try out. The ESS/Crank Sensor tested intermittent. So it was part of the problem. I'll change out the plugs with some copper ones tomorrow. For $40 I'm going to put a new cam sensor on it as well. Is there any other sensors that could cause a no start condition while I'm at it?


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

I installed a set of Champion Copper plus that I re-gapped to 0.028" from the stock 0.035" and she is back idling like a sowing machine. It in getting a rear wheel alignment. I'm going to put some seafoam through it as well. Big thanks to all whom actually replyed.


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

Can I get a "Woot! Woot!"


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

It's all good now, It starts are runs fine again. Although I don't expect my copper plugs to last for ever. I sea foamed the motor yesterday. It made quite the smoke cloud under boost when I took it up the road after :laugh:. The car finally got taken in for its alignment as well. Although I still need to change out the rose-joints in the rear spindles. My buddy has a shop so now its back together I can take it there to finish it off. The only other thing on the list is getting it undercoated for the winter. Yes I plan to drive it in the snow, although I'm unemployed at the moment so it won't be driven much. Anyone looking to hire a Computer Engineering Technician?:wave:


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

BTW..I missed this ( but so did everyone else ) , that single wire going to the valve cover...the wire that is starting to fray. That is your MAIN GROUND for the ignition coils. I'd fix it ASAP.

Glad you got it going :thumbup:


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

Foolee said:


> (Snip) Anyone looking to hire a Computer Engineering Technician?:wave:


Have you checked out the job market in BC? Lots of high tech jobs here. Less snow as well  Lots of competition. but the Industry still seems to be growing...

Fort McMurray is where the big action is now. Taxi drivers are making over $65,000 a year. Mind you, the cost of living is huge.

The Oil Sands need Computer Engineers big time.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

I got offered a job at the sands. 100k a yr work 6 months of 6 months

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## Foolee (Mar 23, 2013)

Ya i've put a few resumes out in Fort McMoney. The ground wire correct me if I'm wrong is on the top left of the valve cover. This wire is attached to a black box on the front right side by the vacuume box thing that is bolted to the valvecover over the 4th coil pack.


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