# My '01 Jetta Install, lots of pics



## jacampb2 (Jul 23, 2009)

I am relatively new here, but thought I would show off my progress at my ongoing ’01 Jetta audio installation. Anyhow, long story short, I have had the Jetta for 4 years, it was my wife’s DD until our family outgrew it. We bought a Denali for the family vehicle, I am selling my pick up truck, and I inherited the Jetta from my wife. 
First off, I can’t thank this board enough. I read nearly every thread in the MKIV FAQ and the information therein went a long ways in making this install go smoothly. It is difficult to strip an interior when you have no experience with the particular model and everything fits tighter together than a frogs a$$.
I have been into car audio since the late 90’s. I installed for a few years back then, and I have never outgrown it. I am now 32, and I still love it like I am 16… I collect older Phoenix Gold amplifiers and various other CA related items. Most of the stuff in this install was already in my collection. The only thing I had to go out and buy were two 300a ANL fuses.
On with the pics, sound deadner in the trunk:

















Some pics of the cable runs. Getting this trim off would have been an exercise in futility w/o this board for guidance. I barely broke anything







. 1/0 Awg Phoenix Gold power wire run down the drivers side, PG zero point signal cables, speaker wire and remote run down the passenger side.
































The Eclipse 7200MkII is in, subtle difference from factory, but I swapped the din pocket for the HU hole, I hated how low the HU was in the dash. This means I loose my fancy sliding cup holders, but they were garbage anyhow. I am going to glass a cup holder into the factory console, or else buy a '04 console which has the cup holders in it...
Here is a picture of the sub box. The box is 6.7 ft^3, ported, tuned to 28Hz, it will house 3 1st generation Cerwin Vega Stroker 12d2’s.








My buddy showed up to help me finish up and get the box in the trunk. We did a bunch of internal bracing, and then he says—this isn’t going to fit, you know that right… Well, he was right, it didn’t. We had to cut it in half to get it in. Even then it was so tight I didn’t think it was going to go. I had to persuade the wheel wells a bit to get it in. It is spliced back together with 5.5” wide pieces of MDF glued and screwed all along the seam.








Wiring is coming along. Speaker wire is PG 8g power and ground, the beat up Optima battery came out of my off road buggy, and will be replaced soon. I raised the box 3”s to allow for a false floor when the finish work begins. I had originally planned to keep the spare tire, but it wasn’t going back in, so I decided to use the space for the install. The PG critter in the bottom of the well is a 15 Farad power core capacitor.
















I got the Phoenix Gold ZX475ti 4 channel amp mounted in the tire well. The CV strokers are installed, wiring is not tidied up yet as I was unsure if I was going to keep these component locations. The sub amp is a Autotek Mean Machine 3000.1. I am not a huge fan of Autotek, but it is the only single amp I have that is large enough to drive the three strokers.


























Finally got things tidied up, fuses bought, front fuse holder mounted, amps mounted and wired, the Phoenix Gold Bass CUBE wired and I test fired it. It’s loud, really, really, loud…
























I started on the component speakers. The speakers are all Boston Acoustic Pro series drivers, except for those in the rear doors, those are going to be BA ralley series. I will eventually build fiberglass kicks for a set of BA pro 5.25 mids. I made pods to adapt to the door and seal the drivers. They ended up being way to small and sounded like crap, so I knocked the backs off them and am running them w/ just the door for the enclosure.
























I played and did some tuning, and it is sounding really good. I backed way off on the strokers as they are ridiculously loud, but right now, it sounds good and mellow with some kick. I will do more tuning later.
I got the back seats and all the trim back in and am going to call it a night. Here is a pic of the rear door. These only got one MDF ring as I decided it was all that was necessary.
Here’s a pic of the back door to show how they were installed.








Now I still have a ton of work ahead of me. Obviously it needs trim and finish work, and I have to make fiberglass kicks as well. I will update as I move along with it. I hope you enjoy it








Later,
Jason


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## vdubnick (Nov 29, 2004)

intriguing.....


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*FV-QR*

agreed. Why did you fire the subs in to the trunk and seal the cabin of the car off from the trunk?
also, judging by the pictures, are you so sure bout the tuning at 28hz and not 280hz? Looks like the ports are only as thick as the baffle and there is four of them. Looks to be about 2"x2", or 16 sq in total, which would require a port length of about 30 inches.


_Modified by Pat @ Pitt Soundworks at 12:18 AM 8-8-2009_


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## jacampb2 (Jul 23, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Pat @ Pitt Soundworks)*

The cabin is no where near sealed from the trunk. The top of the box has about 3"s from the bottom of the deck/parcel shelf, and the bottom of the box is 3"s from the floor. The rear deck is like swiss cheese, and no attempt was made to seal to the rear bulk head. 
Or, are you asking just why fire them rearward to begin with?


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## jacampb2 (Jul 23, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (jacampb2)*

Yes, I am positive on the tuning. Total port cross sectional area is 21.12 in^2, port length is 9.75 inches. With the drivers in the box, port volume subtracted and all the bracing, the boxes internal volume is about 6.2 ft^3. Port air velocity peaks out at ~ 5.8 ft/second at 23Hz, quite low enough to minimize port noise. 
The ports are 3.25x3.25x4.6, 9.75" length, feel free to check my math.








Thanks,
Jason


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## jacampb2 (Jul 23, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (jacampb2)*

Here is a good pic of one of the ports and the lower splice in the box to give you an idea of what they actually are.








Later,
Jason


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*FV-QR*

math looks good. Hard to see those ports from the other pics. 
But you would be suprised how well that trunk is insulated from the cabin. From the comments: you cut open the rear deck?


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## jacampb2 (Jul 23, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Pat @ Pitt Soundworks)*

Yeah, I know they are hard to see. I got raked over the coals w/ questions about them on the Phoenix Gold board I frequent as well. I use WinISD to model, but I also do all my math manually as well to make sure I am not missing anything. The trend anymore is for lots and lots of port area, but it really is not any more efficient or louder than a smaller port when tuned correctly. The key with smaller ports is ensuring that the port air velocity does not get high enough to cause significant port noise. After that it is the difference between "bore and stroke" to use an engine analogy. I would rather have a smaller CA port and the shorter length (read easier to fit) that goes with it, than a huge port that has to be 2xs as long as the box...
No, I didn't cut up the deck. I just snagged a picture from up above in my thread showing the deck w/o it's trim. All those holes are through and clear in my deck? Are they not there on every Jetta? Granted, the deck trim/carpet/whatever adds some dampening, but I am not sure I want to open it up any more. I am not a Bass head anymore, it makes me nauseous after a few minutes, but I love to put little teenagers in their neons to shame
















Later,
Jason


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (jacampb2)*

That's about normal. I've seen some with less. Still, you would be quite surprised how well the rear deck and seats insulate the trunk of the car from the cabin.
Only real ways around it are gutting the seats (wierd) or cutting the rear deck. I don't really endorse either - especially the later because that's a structurally important piece of the car. What I typically recommend is a fourth order bandpass vented through the rear deck- this way only the center of the deck has to be cut (where the holes are) and full efficiency of the sub-in-cabin is retained.


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## vdubnick (Nov 29, 2004)

please tell me you are going to cover the box


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## jacampb2 (Jul 23, 2009)

*Re: (vdubnick)*

No, I like the look of unfinished MDF. It is my rat-rod install. 
LOL dude, the last line in the first post says I am going to finish it out. I would have rather done the finish work outside the car, but there is no way that I was going to pull that f-ing box out after it took so much trouble to get it in and lined up. I couldn't have done it alone, and my friends are flaky about when they can/will help, so I took advantage of having my buddy there.
As it is, only the face of the box is going to get covered, and that is not to bad to remove, not counting the 90 lbs of subwoofer... The plan is to do the countersunk area of the baffle in vinyl or gloss paint, and the raised portion likely in carpet. I will make all new trim for the trunk to finish it out. I know you don't know me from Adam, but I know what I am doing







.
I'm still not sure on the amp situation. The more I listen to it, the more I dislike the Autotek amp. I have a lot of other amps to choose from, but nothing really anywhere near it's size... I honestly just dont care for Class D amps.
I have a 1st Generation sound stream tarantula A/B monoblock that I am almost finished restoring, and could be an option. I also have about 30 old school PG amps, including 5 Ti800.1's, but I can't really come up with the space for them. If I could figure a way to squeeze it in, I would run this bad boy that I designed, modeled after PG's ZPA line, it is not quite finished, but it is coined the ZPA 0.8, I built the case and all the plastic parts and buss from scratch on my CNC Bridgeport Mill. It measures 22x18x3.5, so it is a bit big to squeeze into this install, but it houses two PG Ti800.1 A/B monoblocks that have been hotrodded a bit...
















Later,
Jason


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## vdubnick (Nov 29, 2004)

^ my bad, sometimes i forget it helps if you read


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## jacampb2 (Jul 23, 2009)

*Re: (vdubnick)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubnick* »_^ my bad, sometimes i forget it helps if you read

Don't sweat it, it was a long post. It is going to take me a while to get it 99% done, or as close to done as these things ever get. I work shift work and also run a off road fab shop in my spare time. I took a weeks vacation on my shift work job mainly to do the Jetta install. I only have ~7 8-12hr days into it so far. I will get it wrapped up, but it could be a few months.
Later,
Jason


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Do you still have those sealed door pods?
Have you considered drilling out the back and turning them in to aperiodic pods?


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## jacampb2 (Jul 23, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Pat @ Pitt Soundworks)*

I actually cut the backs off them because I didn't want to totally remake them. I did consider AP membrane, but I was out of time and had to wrap it up so I could go to work the next day.
It looks like I am getting a hold of some 8" PG XS drivers on trade for some custom acrylic work, so I may rethink my whole front stage. I am thinking that I may put the 8's in each front door, and the BA Pro 6.5's in the kicks. 
It's actually sounding pretty good right now, but I never can leave well enough alone








Later,
Jason


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*FV-QR*

that would be a good deal.
With 8's in the doors, however, you would want something much better suited for the midrange in the kick panels. Acoustical theory shows that there are no imaging cues under 250hz, so you would only need extension down to 250-300hz from a midrange, easily accomplished by a single 3" driver if properly aimed and loaded, or (even better) an array of smaller drivers. 
Consider a kick panel array of these 8 in each kick panel (4 high by 2 wide):
http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=14618+SP
You would have low end extension way below 300hz, as well has high end extension well above 5khz where a small metal tweeter *cough* could be used to add sparkle back to the top end.


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## jacampb2 (Jul 23, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Pat @ Pitt Soundworks)*

I also have these 5.25" PG Zero Point Drivers, I have never run them, but they are supposed to be phenomenal. I wonder if I could squeeze a pair in each kick.








I appreciate the ideas and suggestions. Keep them coming. I am certainly going to have to come up with a new plan for amps if I go this route. I have a PG Ti900.7 which may be just the ticket for all but the subs. I could easily run my front stage active from this amp, as well as midbass and just about anything else I could come up with-- din pocket center channel maybe







?
Thanks,
Jason

_Modified by jacampb2 at 6:29 PM 8-9-2009_


_Modified by jacampb2 at 6:54 PM 8-9-2009_


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*FV-QR*

OH wow. I was looking for a TI900.7 YEARS ago. The problem with large midrange in kicks is as you look for higher frequency extension, the driver must be more and more on-axis. The goal with a 3-way front stage setup is as wide as possible bandwidth for the midrange speakers. With 5.25 speakers you'll be limited to upper end off-axis extension of approximately 2500hz. If you can keep them on-axis then you can go higher, but not near the ~5khz goal. They become light flash-lights in terms of dispersion and when you're relying on both primary and reflected sound (a function of kickpanel loading) to form an image, you're going to run in to a suck out with the upper end extension when the environment becomes the primary factor in shaping response.
Center channels need not apply to *any* _stereo_. Mono is a different story.


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## jacampb2 (Jul 23, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Pat @ Pitt Soundworks)*

Yeah, I have a plethora of amps. I collect and restore them. I have at least one of each of the Ti line up. That is the newest of any of the PG amps that I really consider to be worth a damn...
As for the ZPM's, you are right, their specs say they are good up to ~3kHz. I really would prefer to not purchase any more equipment, but I may have to start shopping around. Like I mentioned above, this crap is rarely ever done-- at least not for me.
As for the center channel, I was joking. I have seen it done, and executed well enough to improve imaging, but with proper planning and front stage design, I think any (perceived) need for it is ridiculous. 
Later,
Jason


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Totally depends on system goals. If you're going for panned mono with a strong center image, a center that can play full range (note: not necessarily a full-range driver), there is no substitute for. For straight mono, you can basically throw anything anywhere as long as tactile transfer is kept well in check.
If you do end up being interested in any of those 2's, let me know. I have a huge box of 'em








edit: it's good to see my email notification is working again for the vortex. Seemed to be down for about two weeks.


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## jacampb2 (Jul 23, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Pat @ Pitt Soundworks)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pat @ Pitt Soundworks* »_
If you do end up being interested in any of those 2's, let me know. I have a huge box of 'em









Definitely. I may be interested in some, regardless of if I put them in this install. I have a little project in the works for our Denali. My girls are 3yrs and 1yr old, they love the rear seat entertainment in the truck, but they are to young to totally "get" the headphone thing, and so if we take the truck on vacation, we all have to listen to the movies. I am thinking of designing a little personal sound system for each of their car seats. IR link to the RSE, small amp for each seat (looking at the tripath based mini amps that are showing up on the bay, although tripath is now defunct, they are pretty much the only class D amp I have ever heard that rivaled a A/B amp), and a pair of small drivers in the head rest of each car seat. Maybe go with a small transducer under the seat to give them a little low end feel







I have been keeping my eyes open for a inexpensive small driver that could easily be incorporated in the seats.
Later,
Jason


_Modified by jacampb2 at 7:46 PM 8-9-2009_


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## EUR0FR3SH (Aug 25, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (jacampb2)*

This install rocks


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## jacampb2 (Jul 23, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (EUR0FR3SH)*

I finally got a 3rd Phoenix Gold RSDc12, and I swapped out the strokers for the RSDc's. Preliminary listening test by myself says that they aren't quite the end all in subwoofers that I have heard... The strokers were much cleaner, tighter and smoother sounding IMO. The box was actually built w/ RSDc's in mind. I'm not unhappy, after all, we're comparing a ~$400 sub to ones that retailed for over $1k. I just expected a lot better after all the rave reviews I've heard on the RSDc's.
To be fair, the only safe load for the MX3000.1 I could get from 3 4ohm dual coil subs was 2.66 ohms, and the amp was running at 1.66 ohms with the strokers. It could simply be tuning and power issues. I'm probably going to drop the trantula in there if I ever get a bay cleaned out in my shop, otherwise, the system will be on hold until warm weather hits again.
Here is a pic of the RSDc's in place-- I will eventually finish the install. I have a 24x36 shop, and it is mostly full of my machine tools (CNC mill, knee mill, and 15x60 lathe) and in the one bay I have left for work I have a project Ford Bronco that I haven't been able to get motivated to work on, so, most of my install work is going on outside and when the weather permits. Winter is almost here, so unless I work a miracle on the Bronco, then the Jetta is on hold until next summer!








Later,
Jason


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## jacampb2 (Jul 23, 2009)

Well, I have had some more seat time in the car and the subs are growing on me a bit. I think #1 reason they struck me as lack luster is I don't have enough power for them.
The RSDc's seem to perform much better on the low end, and get a bit mushy with higher bass. I have them crossed over at 90Hz 24db/oc so "higher bass" is still pretty low end... Anyhow, this make them preform very well for rap and such, but they don't fill in as well with rock type program material.
Near the tuning frequency they actually sound louder than the strokers, probably due to the fact that they are a much higher excursion driver, I am anxious to get some real power on the subs and see what they can do. My guess is that the same long excursion suspension, which I expect is much more compliant than the strokers, is what tends to make them sound a little loose and washed out at higher frequencies.
Long and short of it, the strokers sound damn near like a sealed sub in a ported box, lots of punch and control, the RSDc's seem to sound pretty good and tight down low, but they loose it when playing higher.
The big issue is going to be getting real power in the car. The MX3000.1 was a good choice for the strokers as it came close to it's rated power at 2 ohms. In reality, I would like to run a single amp to each sub, but I am running out of install space. A 6.5ft^3 box in a jetta is pretty large... I will have to get creative if I am going to stuff 3 amps in there... I may think about mounting them on the parcel shelf, or I could go with the trunk lid.
Any thoughts?
Later,
Jason


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## Deadend (Nov 6, 2009)

*Re: (jacampb2)*

Hell of an install. I'm so envious... oh the day when I no longer share my car with a toddler (and more specifically - her stroller).
Really super-basic question: Where did you run the power cable through the firewall? 
I'm currently preping for a very (very) basic amp install in my 01 Jetta TDI.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*Re: (jacampb2)*

turn the box around








What's the plans for the strokers? Keeping or selling?


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## jacampb2 (Jul 23, 2009)

*Re: (Pat @ Pitt Soundworks)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Deadend* »_Hell of an install. I'm so envious... oh the day when I no longer share my car with a toddler (and more specifically - her stroller).
Really super-basic question: Where did you run the power cable through the firewall? 
I'm currently preping for a very (very) basic amp install in my 01 Jetta TDI.

I ran the 1/0Awg through the factory firewall grommet that plugs the throttle cable hole. I believe the '01 was the first year for throttle by wire, and there is still a hole in the FW for the throttle cable of earlier years. It is kind of a PITA to route the cable through the drivers footwell from this location, it is close to the center of the car where it comes through. I had the carpet up in the drivers well several times trying to get the big ass cable to lie down in an area where it didn't interfere with the clutch, brake, or my feet.

_Quote, originally posted by *Pat @ Pitt Soundworks* »_turn the box around








What's the plans for the strokers? Keeping or selling?

I know, you keep telling me that! I would have to rebuild the whole damned box though, Maybe next summer...
As for the strokers, I have 4 I bought brand new a few years ago. The plan has always been to put them in my Bronco when it is done. Having them around meant that I just had to play with them though, you know? I occasionally run into folks trying to move some, if you are interested, shoot me a PM of what you are looking for and I will keep my eyes open.
The old school strokers are perhaps my favorite sub I've ever heard. If I could find a pair of 18's, I would find a way to get them into the Jetta








Later,
Jason


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Yeah if you find any in good condition let me know. I'd love to have a couple. Hell, I cannot even get those guys selling speakers out of a white van to stop by me.


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## jacampb2 (Jul 23, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Pat @ Pitt Soundworks)*

Are you just interested in 12's, or any of the line up. I know a guy who has a pair of 15's that he might be interested in selling.
LMK,
Jason


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## oopseyesharted (Mar 2, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (jacampb2)*

Wow....nice build man
Pat knows all about arrays!!!
His build is redunkulass!!!!!


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