# Dectane projector headlights with DRL LED strips



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Since our group buy thread got deleted, I figured we need a thread to discuss these headlights. Here we'll find pictures, wiring instructions/recommendations and places to buy them. I'll let Turb02 post some pictures again when he has some time.


It looks like so far we need resistors in parallel with the parking lights wires to get the LEDs to light up and stay on. These are the resistors... http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/marker-lamp-load-resistor/191/832/


You can get them here... http://www.dectane-tuning.com/index.php?detalii=4979485 or here http://www.orange-tuning.de/shop/de...=d663b81893bb5a8ab57496664c82226a&language=en


Pictures of the black headlights, supplied by Turb02 in post #6 http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...LED-strips&p=81850982&viewfull=1#post81850982 and more pictures in post #146 http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...LED-strips&p=82141923&viewfull=1#post82141923


Jiangleo was nice enough to provide this nice DYI for setting up these headlights.


First of all, you have two options to fix the parking lights bulb out error:

1. Set the front parking light to 16% power in VCDS. (It works on my model: 09 sport, really not sure about other models, if it doesn't work on your model, you will need to use the second option)

2. Add a load resistors between ground (brown) and pin 10 in each side for the parking lights. You can add a 25 ohm 25 w resistor, and it will be very hot. Or, you can add a 150 ohms one like NRGCC did, and he reported these resistors will generate much less heat.

Below is the procedure of VCDS way:
There are three main steps. First, clear the error message if it is already in your dashboard; Second, set the front parking light to 16%; Finally, disable the front parking lights cold diagnosis.

i: Clear the error message:

1. Open VCDS and click on “SELECT” under Select Control Module.


2. click “09-Cent.Electr.”


3. Click "Fault codes - 02"


4. Click "Clear Codes - 05"


ii Set the front parking light to 16%

5. Back to “09-Cent.Electr.” main interface and click “Coding – 07”


6. A box like below should pop up. DO NOT SIMPLY COPY MY LONG CODE, BACKUP YOUR ORIGINAL LONG CODE BEFORE YOU CHANGE ANYTHING . Click “Long Coding Helper.”


7. In byte 11, change the value to 10, which means 16% brightness and power. 5w•16%=0.8w (LED strips' power).


iii. Disable cold diagnosis.
8. Go to byte 19, and uncheck the "Cold Diagnosis Front Parking Lights active"


8. When you are done, hit “Exit.”


9. Now, hit “Do it!”


Note: This setting will not dim your LEDs, it just matches with the LEDs power. The error may still comes out in first couple days, you need to clean the error for 1-2 times. After that, it won't come out again. I am running my CC about a month now with this setting, I did not see the error again.

Miscellaneous:

Disable the low beam DRL: you can find the information by searching the forum.
Set the LED strip as DRL:

In the 09-Cent. Elect module,

byte 00 change to E9 (active Scandinavia DRL); just check the Scandinavia DRL in bit 3, and keep other settings as you have.
byte 11 change to 64 (set the front parking lights to 100%)
byte 12 change to 01 (dim the rear parking lights to 1%)
byte 20 change to 00 (disable using low beams as DRL)

HID: Enable the "xenon headlights without Shutter installed (BI-Xenon)" in Byte 3, instead of enabling the" xenon headlights with Shutter installed" in byte 0. Otherwise, the high beam will not work.


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

why did it get deleted?


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

Hello everyone, please just discuss headlights themselves, such as technical discussion and posting photos. No group buy here because it violated the user agreement under " no user, other than paying advertisers may start group buys". 

Sorry guys.


Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


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## DarthBajan (Oct 22, 2008)

jiangleo said:


> Hello everyone, please just discuss headlights themselves, such as technical discussion and posting photos. No group buy here because it violated the user agreement under " no user, other than paying advertisers may start group buys".
> 
> Sorry guys.
> 
> ...


Wow now that definitely sucks. I thought the point of a community was to help each other out? Thanks for figuring out the fix as well.

Do the cornering lights still work? The Orange website has the following blurb:- "not suitable for vehicles with Xenon, Bi-Xenon and cornering Light"


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

munnarg said:


> Wow now that definitely sucks. I thought the point of a community was to help each other out? Thanks for figuring out the fix as well.
> 
> Do the cornering lights still work? The Orange website has the following blurb:- "not suitable for vehicles with Xenon, Bi-Xenon and cornering Light"


That really blows!! Why couldn't the moderator contact the OP and have him remove that info from the thread, instead of removing all the pictures, detailed information, etc...


That said, the cornering lights do work without any issues, out of the box, no problem. I didnt get a chance to take night shots for 3 reasons; I was busy with my kids, had to post proces photos of my niece I took for her birthday, and my dusk to dawn light is motion activated, so it would have lit up my entire driveway.

Ill try to post the pictures I have so far, later this morning. My work blocks photobucket, and thats where theyre all at, so Ill have to do it from my phone.


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

*Black on Black.*

As promised, here are the pics I have that are of decent quality, showing the light output and the color of the housing's. Im going to try to get night pics tonight, so I backed into my driveway. Hopefully I can sneak up on my car without activating my motion sensing light.


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## DarkoPrime (May 4, 2011)

@Turb02 was it simple plug and play? Or did you have to do any mods with error codes/special wiring?


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

Yes and no. Since these lights don't have the parking light bulb, a resistor needed to be wired in. Very simple and only took about 5 minutes to install the resistors. 

I was emailing jianglo (sp) and he stated that Frank from Orange tuning said the leds get power and ground from the third pin on top and bottom.

Still getting more info on all of this though. But for now a resistor from pin 10 to ground works with no bulb out error.

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

Do you need the euro switch to get the leds to work by themselves?


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

kaeo773 said:


> Do you need the euro switch to get the leds to work by themselves?


No...


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

kaeo773 said:


> Do you need the euro switch to get the leds to work by themselves?


Initially I thought yes, but based on what Frank stated, the leds aren't wired to the parking lights. If they actually are, you could use vcds with the euro switch to have the leds on but drls off. 

If they aren't wired into the parking lights, another solution will have to be found. That's what I want to do, is have them on and my drls coded off. 

I may head of there and see if I can determine what pin they actually go to in the connector...

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

it looks like you only have the LEDS on in the first few pictures


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

kaeo773 said:


> it looks like you only have the LEDS on in the first few pictures


I did. The key was in the on position and the headlights were in the auto position, brake was set...if I recall. 

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

As Frank stated, third pin in the top row is the positive for the LED strip, and the third pin in the lower row is for the ground. So they should be pin 5 and pin 6. (No matter the direction counting from)

I found one for Touran Halogen headlight plug 10 pin: Does anyone have a pin assignment for CC's headlight? 

Pin 1 - servomotor
Pin 2 - servomotor
Pin 3 - servomotor
Pin 4 - Not used
Pin 5 - Ground
Pin 6 - +12 V halogen headlights
Pin 7 - Ground
Pin 8 - +12 V-beam halogen
Pin 9 - +12 V Indicator
Pin10 - +12 V parking light


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

Here is a horrible picture of the leds only. Rather bright...









Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

jiangleo said:


> As Frank stated, third pin in the top row is the positive for the LED strip, and the third pin in the lower row is for the ground. So they should be pin 5 and pin 6. (No matter the direction counting from)
> 
> I found one for Touran Halogen headlight plug 10 pin: Does anyone have a pin assignment for CC's headlight?
> 
> ...


I'm betting that's what these lights are pinned for because they're have pins in 1,2, and 3 but not 4. What color wire is in this setup position 8? 

I believe they share power with the low beam. Based on the slew of wires I was trying to trace out, inside the housing. There are multiple plugs within the housing that I'm going to try to unplug to see if I can get the leds to go out, then trace the wires back to the pin on the connector.

Edit: see this for wiring info... http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ve-a-wiring-question.&p=81157129#post81157129


Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## HunterRose (Feb 16, 1999)

Great work!!


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

HunterRose said:


> Great work!!


Getting closer...


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## b6driver (Jun 1, 2006)

with very basic information here, so the problem is to allow the LEDs to run as DRL right?

My car: 2010 CC-R

While experimenting trying to get the fogs to work as DRLs... on VCDS, I enabled the 'North American DRL setting' (please correct these since I don't have access to my car right now), and 'Enable Fog lights as DRL.' 

By enabling these settings, I noticed the cornering light has become the DRL. Obviously not my desired configuration, but maybe this can be applied to this matter (with a little wiring). Along with disabling the cornering light function.

Do the Dectanes even have cornering lights?


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

From what turb02 says... They do have cornering lights.


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

NRGCC said:


> From what turb02 says... They do have cornering lights.


Yes they do, and they work fine. The issue here is these lights arent wired for a parking light. After some digging and wire tracing, it looks like they share power from the halogen light (low/hi).

ideally i'd like to get these to be the drls but not sure if its possible. Maybe I should enable my drls again and see if they are already wired for the drl function??

Ive contacted someone in my area to see if we can meet up for VCDS coding, but hes out of town for SOWO car show until next Friday...


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

I woudln't waste my time re-enabling the north american DRL funtion. ALL it does is supply lower power to the main H7 low beam bulbs, so they appear slightly dimmer during the day, while getting full power for full brightness at night. That definitely won't work right, as the LEDs need full power and.... your headlight bulbs will still be ON. lol

What we do need is to wire the LEDs separately from the car battery, using a relay that turns them on during the day, while the engine is on... and maybe using a separate relay, turn them on again, with less power (decreased brightness), for night time use. That's what what I plan on doing when I get mine. This year hopefully... :screwy::what::banghead:


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

My thought was, here me out here, if I have to do any wiring, Ill wire them to the parking light wire and get a euro switch...killing 2 birds with one stone.


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

Well then this wiring harness would be the solution like I posted in the original thread. Since you guys already solved the bulb out error. 

I know I want the the led lights to be DRL without the low beams on.

http://www.europeanperformanceprodu...-Module.html/MSsid/rarq63n30478uk3tdpupbt6js7


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

kaeo773 said:


> Well then this wiring harness would be the solution like I posted in the original thread. Since you guys already solved the bulb out error.
> 
> I know I want the the led lights to be DRL without the low beams on.
> 
> http://www.europeanperformanceprodu...-Module.html/MSsid/rarq63n30478uk3tdpupbt6js7


$hit, I forgot about that! Good call! Jiangleo found information regarding turning the power down to the parking lights to 1%, which should alleviate a lot of the heat in the resistor. As soon as I can get VCDS done to turn them down, Ill test that. If that works, Ill most likely order that wiring harness and report.


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## b6driver (Jun 1, 2006)

NRGCC said:


> I woudln't waste my time re-enabling the north american DRL funtion. ALL it does is supply lower power to the main H7 low beam bulbs, so they appear slightly dimmer during the day, while getting full power for full brightness at night. That definitely won't work right, as the LEDs need full power and.... your headlight bulbs will still be ON. lol
> 
> What we do need is to wire the LEDs separately from the car battery, using a relay that turns them on during the day, while the engine is on... and maybe using a separate relay, turn them on again, with less power (decreased brightness), for night time use. That's what what I plan on doing when I get mine. This year hopefully... :screwy::what::banghead:


The function I was talking about is enabling the NA DRL function in conjunction with enabling DRL as Fog option, but since the Dectanes have cornering lights, then we can scrap this. 

A relay would be the easiest solution, but not the most elegant. That said I would go the relay route. Tapped on to the ignition fuse for the trigger.


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

b6driver said:


> with very basic information here, so the problem is to allow the LEDs to run as DRL right?
> 
> My car: 2010 CC-R
> 
> ...


Yes, as I know, CC's wiring is different than other VW cars, maybe because of the cornering light. So you are no able to enable the Fog lights as DRL. 

Let me summarize the problems we have now: 

*1. Allow the LEDs to Run as DRL Right: *
First of all, if you have your default low beam DRL enabled, those LEDs will keep on all the time along with the low beams. 
As the information we have now, the LEDs share the wire with low beams (Pin5 and 6). The only condition to let the LED on alone is putting the key in ignition, accessory position, but before staring your engine. (on condition that you have your low beam DRL disabled, if you didn't, you need to set your handbreak on). And once you started your engine, the LED goes off along with the low beams. 

My guessing here is the LEDs were on in the first is because of the cold diagnosis. During the cold diagnosis, ECU sent out a low voltage which is able to turn on the LEDs, but not big enough to turn on the low beams. 

Edit:　DAYLINE E-Code Headlight Daytime Running Light (DRL) Module　This module may solve this problem perfectly.

*2. Parking Light Error Message: *
The reason to cause this message is because there is no parking light in Euro spec headlights, so the ECU in our CC is not able to detect the parking light (a load) in the Dectane projector headlights, then an error message pops out. This is also can be used to explain why these headlight do not have error in Europe, but throw error in U.S. 
Since the parking light wire (Pin 10) is not the wire that supply the power for the LEDs. And there is no parking light in Euro spec headlights, so disable or dim the parking light via VCDS is the best way to do now. But for now, attaching a road resistor in parallel between pin 10 and ground can solve this problem.


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

kaeo773 said:


> Well then this wiring harness would be the solution like I posted in the original thread. Since you guys already solved the bulb out error.
> 
> I know I want the the led lights to be DRL without the low beams on.
> 
> http://www.europeanperformanceprodu...-Module.html/MSsid/rarq63n30478uk3tdpupbt6js7


Cool, we should get some from Frank. Thanks!


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

jiangleo said:


> Cool, we should get some from Frank. Thanks!


See what his price is because shipping from the linked website is more than the price of the module!!


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

Turb02 said:


> See what his price is because shipping from the linked website is more than the price of the module!!


I can order two from Frank (if he has them), and let him ship them with the headlights. 
After they arrived I can send one to your door.

In fact, I am not sure whether I need this. I have LED DRL turns. So turning the LEDs in headlights on alone is not a very big deal to me.


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

jiangleo said:


> I can order two from Frank (if he has them), and let him ship them with the headlights.
> After they arrived I can send one to your door.
> 
> In fact, I am not sure whether I need this. I have LED DRL turns. So turning the LEDs in headlights on alone is not a very big deal to me.


Let me know his price and we can discuss via PM or email at that point. thanks.


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## vahdyx (Feb 7, 2012)

Do these turn when you turn? Also can you throw HIDs in them and lastly, do they cause any errors?


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

vahdyx said:


> Do these turn when you turn? Also can you throw HIDs in them and lastly, do they cause any errors?


No, unless you mean the standard cornering lights. 
Yes
Yes, but a resistor in place removes the bulb error.

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## vahdyx (Feb 7, 2012)

Turb02 said:


> No, unless you mean the standard cornering lights.
> Yes
> Yes, but a resistor in place removes the bulb error.
> 
> Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


Cool thanks for the quick reply with info!

I'm still trying to decide on these.


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

vahdyx said:


> Cool thanks for the quick reply with info!
> 
> I'm still trying to decide on these.


No problem. Im hoping Frank gets back to me soon with the wiring schematic of the lights, so we can determine how everything is wired up. I know it may not be useful to anyone, but having it is "piece of mind" to me.


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

Update on the LED DRL module: After emailing the company and asking them why the price of shipping was more expensive than the product itself I received:

_Thank you very for bringing the shipping to our attention. We had never noticed this before because in the past the module was always ordered together with a set of headlights so it basically shipped for free when combined. We’ve adjusted the item to correctly reflect the standalone shipping cost but please note that our base cost is still as high as $18.95 as we only ship via registered mail so this is higher than what you may have expected._

Thats good news! Total cost will be $55.38 USD. Ill be ordering mine next week.


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

Turb02 said:


> Update on the LED DRL module: After emailing the company and asking them why the price of shipping was more expensive than the product itself I received:
> 
> _Thank you very for bringing the shipping to our attention. We had never noticed this before because in the past the module was always ordered together with a set of headlights so it basically shipped for free when combined. We’ve adjusted the item to correctly reflect the standalone shipping cost but please note that our base cost is still as high as $18.95 as we only ship via registered mail so this is higher than what you may have expected._
> 
> Thats good news! Total cost will be $55.38 USD. Ill be ordering mine next week.


Before you place the order, do ask them if this will work on a U.S. spec halogen CC , at least get some promises.


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

jiangleo said:


> Before you place the order, do ask them if this will work on a U.S. spec halogen CC , at least get some promises.


Will do.

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

Ordered the led module. From the seller:

_ Sorry, our misunderstanding! Yes, country specification should not play a roll in this case but having said that have you made any modifications to your wiring harness when installing these headlights
_

Then I told him that I installed the resistor. His response:
_ Interesting solution! We have no reason to suspect that this module won’t work_


Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## b6driver (Jun 1, 2006)

Turb02 said:


> Ordered the led module. From the seller:
> 
> _ Sorry, our misunderstanding! Yes, country specification should not play a roll in this case but having said that have you made any modifications to your wiring harness when installing these headlights
> _
> ...



I'm not getting a lot of confidence in those answers


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

b6driver said:


> I'm not getting a lot of confidence in those answers


We'll see. They're made specifically for these lights, and since nothing has changed on the lights or the wiring harness of the car, theoretically they should work.

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

_Sorry for the delay. Yesterday was a holiday in Germany so things didn’t start actually happening until*today. We had actually sold our last module early last week and after submitting our order to Dayline*today*for more (typically we can get restocked within 24-48 hours and had several orders to fill anyway) we were informed that the module is presently no longer available and they could not even give us an ETA as to when/if it would become available again. We’re presently looking at alternatives but have sent you a full refund in the interim. We sincerely apologize for any inconvenience this has caused._


Any other ideas?

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## DarthBajan (Oct 22, 2008)

Damn are these lights cursed ?


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

Is the module for the LED control? I thought they are on the way coming to your home....:facepalm:


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

jiangleo said:


> Is the module for the LED control? I thought they are on the way coming to your home....:facepalm:


It was for the leds to come on when ignition was on, yes. Back to the drawing board. 

I still think they're doable by writing them to the parking light wire and getting a Euro switch, but I'd rather not do it that way...

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

I was looking at this USA company, they make all types of custom wiring harness that could meet our needs. 

Maybe someone who knows more than me can call to see if they can make the same type of harness.

http://shop.lightwerkz.net/Custom-Relayed-Wiring-Harnesses


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

For that price.. they can keep their "custom" harnesses.. lol


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## HunterRose (Feb 16, 1999)

This is getting interesting...
opcorn:


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## vahdyx (Feb 7, 2012)

I don't understand, are these plug and play? Also how do I order them for USA?


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

vahdyx said:


> I don't understand, are these plug and play? Also how do I order them for USA?


Did you read the thread at all ??


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Here's what I found on aliexpress.. pretty sweet and cheap...

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Volk...l-eye-volkswagen-cc-headlights/893483693.html


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

that looks cool, I just emailed them to see if they are US or Euro spec.

Wow!!
look what else they sell
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...by-the-vw-volkswagen-cc/415454_872099690.html


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Their titles and descriptions have absolutely nothing to do with the pictures!! :banghead::laugh::laugh:


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

Shipping for those lights are 4 times the price of the lights!!

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## ringding (Mar 20, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> They titles and descriptions have absolutely nothing to do with the pictures!! :banghead::laugh::laugh:


Haha, noticed that too. I'm reading the description going, "WTF is this guy talking about?"

That kit is pretty awesome.


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

haha, did you see the body kit package dimensions (27.56in x 17.72in x 21.26in) :screwy:


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Yeah.. completely random crap everywhere. Not giving them my hard earned money that's for sure.. lol


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

So...does anyone have other ideas on getting the leds on but keeping the headlight off? Short of wiring directly to switched power?

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Just wire them separately to the car battery via relay and be done with it dude... Put some 50 watt resistors on the old parking lights to keep the lights on the dash away...


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## dracer219 (Jul 25, 2012)

By chance does anyone have a solid answer to this at all as I'm looking to purchase these lights rather soon


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

dracer219 said:


> By chance does anyone have a solid answer to this at all as I'm looking to purchase these lights rather soon


Answer to what? 

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## dracer219 (Jul 25, 2012)

Turb02 said:


> Answer to what?
> 
> Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


As to how to get the led's on without the DRL's if you have a euro switch cause that would be my goal and setup


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

dracer219 said:


> As to how to get the led's on without the DRL's if you have a euro switch cause that would be my goal and setup


You will have to do some rewiring to wire them to the parking light pin of the car, but I don't see why that's not possible. Others have given different solutions in this thread. Take one, by the lights and report back...that's what I did.

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

Just ordered the euro switch, hopefully I can figure something out...

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## dracer219 (Jul 25, 2012)

Turb02 said:


> Just ordered the euro switch, hopefully I can figure something out...
> 
> Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


It'll be a couple weeks before I order mine so any advice before hand would be great on wiring and such


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## b6driver (Jun 1, 2006)

Turb02 said:


> Just ordered the euro switch, hopefully I can figure something out...
> 
> Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


Have you tried using the Scandinavian drl setting? I just changed mine to this a few days ago and it keeps the park lights on even in the off setting. This will also enable the low beam drl. To keep the drl subdued I also enabled fogs as drl and this illuminated the cornering lights (which are hardly visible during daytime anyway). Not a permanent fix, but could be a temporary solution short of rewiring anything.


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

b6driver said:


> Have you tried using the Scandinavian drl setting? I just changed mine to this a few days ago and it keeps the park lights on even in the off setting. This will also enable the low beam drl. To keep the drl subdued I also enabled fogs as drl and this illuminated the cornering lights (which are hardly visible during daytime anyway). Not a permanent fix, but could be a temporary solution short of rewiring anything.


So every light is the drl and theyre on all the time? Not sure that's what I want. I'll install the switch and see what happens, some my drls are already coded off. 

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## caughtbycops (Apr 9, 2012)

Can anyone post a DIY on how to wire these headlights


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

caughtbycops said:


> Can anyone post a DIY on how to wire these headlights


Sure. 
1. Remove factory headlight.
2. Install Dectane headlight
3. Plug new headlight in.

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## caughtbycops (Apr 9, 2012)

Turb02 said:


> Sure.
> 1. Remove factory headlight.
> 2. Install Dectane headlight
> 3. Plug new headlight in.
> ...


Forgot the LED strip


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

caughtbycops said:


> Forgot the LED strip


No I didn't, read this thread. Install a resistor from ground to pin 10...
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/marker-lamp-load-resistor/191/
They're wired to the parking light position.

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## caughtbycops (Apr 9, 2012)

Turb02 said:


> No I didn't, read this thread. Install a resistor from ground to pin 10...
> 
> They're wired to the parking light position.
> 
> Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


I understand that, I'm looking for a diy, involving more descriptions and pictures, coming from someone that does not do wiring and would like to install these themselves. Pin 10? idk what that is.


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

Do you have these lights yet? Pin 10 is the positive side of the parking light circuit. It's located on the wiring harness section that plugs into the head light... there are small numbers on the connector that identify the pins. The color is different for the wires from left to right side, so we identify it by saying pin 10.

There had been some vagvom testing done and we believe these can be turned on automatically. I'll try to get some coding done this week to verify.

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


----------



## caughtbycops (Apr 9, 2012)

Turb02 said:


> Do you have these lights yet? Pin 10 is the positive side of the parking light circuit. It's located on the wiring harness section that plugs into the head light... there are small numbers on the connector that identify the pins. The color is different for the wires from left to right side, so we identify it by saying pin 10.
> 
> There had been some vagvom testing done and we believe these can be turned on automatically. I'll try to get some coding done this week to verify.
> 
> Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


I do not, before I do purchase these what's the point in having them if I can't wire the Led strip? That's all, very simple no need to be audacious.


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

caughtbycops said:


> I do not, before I do purchase these what's the point in having them if I can't wire the Led strip? That's all, very simple no need to be audacious.


Audacious, I was not. Pointing out the information that's in this thread, is what I was doing. Take s moment, pop the hood on your car, and see how easy the resistors are to install by identifying the 10th pin. The large brown wire in the harness connector is the ground you need to task as well.. Peterek, has a thread with pictures on how to remove the lights, and install is reverse of removal.

I'm kind of the test mule for getting the leds functioning. All the info we have its in this thread. Once I get some coding done, I'll post results and everyone can make their own determination.

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


----------



## ringding (Mar 20, 2013)

Turb02 said:


> Audacious, I was not. Pointing out the information that's in this thread, is what I was doing. Take s moment, pop the hood on your car, and see how easy the resistors are to install by identifying the 10th pin. The large brown wire in the harness connector is the ground you need to task as well.. Peterek, has a thread with pictures on how to remove the lights, and install is reverse of removal.
> 
> I'm kind of the test mule for getting the leds functioning. All the info we have its in this thread. Once I get some coding done, I'll post results and everyone can make their own determination.
> 
> Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


Turb, not sure, I'd say you're quite adventurous, dare I say daring. Probably even marked by originality. Just saying.

S4


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

What's the worst that can happen? 

The way I look at it is if I can get these working the way I envision them, and it helps the community, that's pretty cool. Now I can't say it's all been me. There were guys before me that had these, and jangelo (sp) has been heavily researching the vagcom coding, among other things.

It's a community forum and I don't understand people that get on here (forums in general) and demand stuff or expect a solution to be handed to them when there's not one yet, or become ignorant.

Not saying it's happening in this thread, I just can't fathom the reasoning behind it.



Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

ringding said:


> Turb, not sure, I'd say you're quite adventurous, dare I say daring. Probably even marked by originality. Just saying.
> 
> S4


:thumbup:

I took his meaning as lack of respect, but you're right. I try to make my car, my car. I've got a few other things I'm working on too...to stand out from the crowd.

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


----------



## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

I just paid Frank for a set of the black headlights, it looks like some came back in stock.


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Yeah I wish would Frank would reply to the rest of us on the list so we can get our headlights too....


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

Getting closer to figuring this out. Just gotta make my date with the VCDS guy in my local area.


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Or buy yourself one of these cables.... and do your own VCDS programming  :laugh:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2013...-VAG-COM-VW-Car-Diagnostic-USB/927154452.html


----------



## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

Turb02 said:


> Getting closer to figuring this out. Just gotta make my date with the VCDS guy in my local area.


That is great news, hopefully you will figure it out by the time I get the headlights


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

NRGCC said:


> Or buy yourself one of these cables.... and do your own VCDS programming  :laugh:
> 
> http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2013...-VAG-COM-VW-Car-Diagnostic-USB/927154452.html


Thanks!! Order placed :facepalm:


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

Jiangleo has done some intense testing with VCDS and said he will continue to do so. He has a 90% solution (possibly 100% for some), depending on what your willing to settle for.

Ill try it out, and post pics. Still gotta wait for the VCDS guy to let me know when he's available.


----------



## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

Turb02 said:


> Jiangleo has done some intense testing with VCDS and said he will continue to do so. He has a 90% solution (possibly 100% for some), depending on what your willing to settle for.
> 
> Ill try it out, and post pics. Still gotta wait for the VCDS guy to let me know when he's available.


What is the link to the resistor you bought?


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

kaeo773 said:


> What is the link to the resistor you bought?


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...LED-strips&p=82053042&viewfull=1#post82053042


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

Got my VCDS date for tomorrow at 1200 CST!!


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Turb02 said:


> Got my VCDS date for tomorrow at 1200 CST!!


Sounds like you two are gonna have a lot of fun! :sly::laugh::heart:


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

NRGCC said:


> Sounds like you two are gonna have a lot of fun! :sly::laugh::heart:


Hopefully it turns out for the best...for me and the community!!


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

Well, I just received my drl module...but I'm considering not installing it due to me getting coding done tomorrow...
Thoughts?

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Turb02 said:


> Well, I just received my drl module...but I'm considering not installing it due to me getting coding done tomorrow...
> Thoughts?
> 
> Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


What is it supposed to do exactly?


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

NRGCC said:


> What is it supposed to do exactly?


Turn the leds (or any lights you write them to) on as soon as the car is on and powered off 10-15 seconds after the car it's turned off

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


----------



## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

Turb02 said:


> Well, I just received my drl module...but I'm considering not installing it due to me getting coding done tomorrow...
> Thoughts?
> 
> Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


I thought they did not make this anymore, and canceled your order. Where did you order it from?


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

kaeo773 said:


> I thought they did not make this anymore, and canceled your order. Where did you order it from?


Bought one from Amazon.

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


----------



## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

have the link


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

kaeo773 said:


> have the link


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0055...bile?ref_=pe_175190_21431760_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1



Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


----------



## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

Turb02 said:


> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0055...bile?ref_=pe_175190_21431760_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1
> 
> 
> 
> So I take it that you are first going to see if you can get it set up tomorrow by Vag-Com solution, and if that fails you will use the relay harness?


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

Initially I was planning on installing the euro switch, which hasn't arrived yet, then try the coding with that. If neither gave me what I wanted, u was going to use the module...

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


----------



## SommersCC (Mar 16, 2013)

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2013-...927154452.html

I just ordered one too, I hope it works because that is literally $100 cheaper than I have ever seen


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

SommersCC said:


> http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2013-...927154452.html
> 
> I just ordered one too, I hope it works because that is literally $100 cheaper than I have ever seen


Link doesn't work...

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

That harness is nice and probably the easiest way to wire the LEDs up. I would forget about messing with VCDS. I would, however, be looking into a controller that would led you dim the LED as the main headlights come on and give them half the power so they're not so bright...


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

NRGCC said:


> That harness is nice and probably the easiest way to wire the LEDs up. I would forget about messing with VCDS. I would, however, be looking into a controller that would led you dim the LED as the main headlights come on and give them half the power so they're not so bright...


Go for it! Let us know how you achieve it and the parts required.

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

which harness are you guys talking about , the amazon one?


----------



## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

I saw this video that has the harness that will do exactly what you want.

You can connect it to an optional wire that will reduces power by 50% when low beams are turned on, or connect it to another optional wire that will turn off when low beams are turned on. 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiIYcuzTeWA

The bad part is that it doesn't look like they carry this model anymore, I will call today and find out why. The good news is that someone else must carry it.


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

Yeah, the control module will work fine. But I am thinking is that too many adds in our CC's engine bay? Resistors, control module, hid kits. Be honest, I don't have too much confidence on those aftermarket products. So less is better. 


Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

jiangleo said:


> Yeah, the control module will work fine. But I am thinking is that too many adds in our CC's engine bay? Resistors, control module, hid kits. Be honest, I don't have too much confidence on those aftermarket products. So less is better.
> 
> 
> Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


Im with you. Thats why I want to see if Ill like the solution you provided me, that Ill be testing today at 12.


Do you think they can be dimmed when lights come on, via VCDS? did you see any options for that?


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

Turb02 said:


> Im with you. Thats why I want to see if Ill like the solution you provided me, that Ill be testing today at 12.
> 
> 
> Do you think they can be dimmed when lights come on, via VCDS? did you see any options for that?


Only if the scandinavian drl mode supports that. I haven't check that. In fact, I think both front and rear parking lights will be brighter when the low been turns on.


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

jiangleo said:


> Only if the scandinavian drl mode supports that. I haven't check that. In fact, I think both front and rear parking lights will be brighter when the low been turns on.


unless the fronts are already set to 100%...the rears should go to 100% (stock brightness) when the lights are activated. It would be nice to be able to dim them via VCDS but im not too worried about that. Once I get the HID kit, they HIDs will overpower the LEDs


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

yes, you are right! 
lets how it works after you have the vcds codes changed.


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

jiangleo said:


> yes, you are right!
> lets how it works after you have the vcds codes changed.


Noon, baby, noon.


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

Well, here are the results. The LEDs DO NOT pulse or flash like the video shows. frames per second...they are solid. As you can see in the video, the rear parking lights are also on, but dimmed to 1%.



dont mind the missing fog light grills...thats another project Im working on

All lights work as necessary. When switched to the ON position, headlights come on and all parking lights in the rear go to 100%.


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

what settings in vag-com did you use


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

kaeo773 said:


> what settings in vag-com did you use


Jiangleo provided the following code:

In the 09-Cent. Elect module,
1. byte 00 change to E9 (active Scandinavia DRL); just check the Scandinavia DRL in bit 3, and keep other settings as you have.
2. byte 11 change to 64 (set the front parking lights to 100%)
3. byte 12 change to 01 (dim the rear parking lights to 1%)
4. byte 20 change to 00 (disable using low beams as DRL)


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

hmmm, interesting thing is you have your rear turn signal lights (the yellow one) on as well. Mine doesn't. :screwy:


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

jiangleo said:


> hmmm, interesting thing is you have your rear turn signal lights (the yellow one) on as well. Mine doesn't. :screwy:


I noticed that after watching the video...maybe a model year thing? I only changed what you identified (what I posted above)


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

I still have time to wait until my headlights come. I have no experience with Vag-com, I see that the setting you used was on a 2010, would they be the same or different on a 2012?


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

Turb02 said:


> I noticed that after watching the video...maybe a model year thing? I only changed what you identified (what I posted above)


Yes, may be you have something like "use rear turn signal as parking light" enabled by default in your car.



kaeo773 said:


> I still have time to wait until my headlights come. I have no experience with Vag-com, I see that the setting you used was on a 2010, would they be the same or different on a 2012?


Most likely this can be used in 2012 model. I can verify that if you could provide some screeshots of your CC's 09-Cent. Elect module long code helper here


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

I can get this tomorrow, I am getting my coilovers done tomorrow and have them do some of the typical vag work


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

jiangleo said:


> Yes, may be you have something like "use rear turn signal as parking light" enabled by default in your car.


I wasnt driving the VCDS, so I didnt notice this as an option...If thats an option, why wouldnt they offer the rear lights as an option for parking lights? That would be nice!


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## BETOGLI (Jul 15, 2010)

Turb02 said:


> No problem. Im hoping Frank gets back to me soon with the wiring schematic of the lights, so we can determine how everything is wired up. I know it may not be useful to anyone, but having it is "piece of mind" to me.



Dude I'm in if you decide to share the wire scheme! I do love these lights!

And to the ones that have them already installed, Do these fit pretty nice? Is it hard to install them? Is it a PITA to install them with HID lights?

Thanks!


----------



## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

I think all the issues have been solved today. The only thing needed is some resistors, and some vag-com work. The HIDs install is not a problem, just as much work on OEM headlight.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/marker-lamp-load-resistor/191/

Vag-com coding:

In the 09-Cent. Elect module,
1. byte 00 change to E9 (active Scandinavia DRL); just check the Scandinavia DRL in bit 3, and keep other settings as you have.
2. byte 11 change to 64 (set the front parking lights to 100%)
3. byte 12 change to 01 (dim the rear parking lights to 1%)
4. byte 20 change to 00 (disable using low beams as DRL)


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## BETOGLI (Jul 15, 2010)

Turb02 said:


> Well, here are the results. The LEDs DO NOT pulse or flash like the video shows. frames per second...they are solid. As you can see in the video, the rear parking lights are also on, but dimmed to 1%.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Could you be so kind and share the install process man?

Thanks!


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

To install, first remove the grill by taking the screws out, and unclipping the clips around the side and bottom of the grill








Then remove the fog light cover








To remove the headlight, there are 3 T30 screws. One here









One that will be visible when removing the grill, and the other that you will have to feel for through the fog light cover area









Then gently finagle it past the bumper cover. Install will be reverse of removal.

Hope this helps...sorry it's so short. If you have concerns about removing the grill, there is plenty info on the web. The clips can be a PITA. Remove the license plate and bracket as necessary.

Ninja edit, there is also a screw on top of the headlight...plainly visible.

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

BETOGLI said:


> Dude I'm in if you decide to share the wire scheme! I do love these lights!
> 
> And to the ones that have them already installed, Do these fit pretty nice? Is it hard to install them? Is it a PITA to install them with HID lights?
> 
> Thanks!


I was never giver the wiring schematic...sorry.

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

Turb02 said:


> To install, first remove the grill by taking the screws out, and unclipping the clips around the side and bottom of the grill
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Appreciate! It will be very helpful when I install mine 


Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

jiangleo said:


> Appreciate! It will be very helpful when I install mine
> 
> 
> Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


No problem, that's what a community is for!

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

you can see more of what the install looks like from the original thread on these headlights 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6007254-Projector-Headlights-with-LED-strip


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

kaeo773 said:


> you can see more of what the install looks like from the original thread on these headlights
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6007254-Projector-Headlights-with-LED-strip


Hmm and I was under the impression that the moderator deleted the original thread!!


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

NRGCC said:


> Hmm and I was under the impression that the moderator deleted the original thread!!


That was the group buy thread that was deleted.

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


----------



## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

Most likely this can be used in 2012 model. I can verify that if you could provide some screeshots of your CC's 09-Cent. Elect module long code helper here[/QUOTE]

I got my coilovers installed yesterday, and some vag-com work done. I showed him the setting on this thread that Turbo used on his 2010, and they seem to be different. He is going to email me the long code screen shot as you requested.


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

kaeo773 said:


> I got my coilovers installed yesterday, and some vag-com work done. I showed him the setting on this thread that Turbo used on his 2010, and they seem to be different. He is going to email me the long code screen shot as you requested.


Jiangleo should be able to provide insight, as I dont have VAG COM...sorry


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

Jiangleo: This is what he sent me


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

Yes, just post them here. In the meanwhile, I am still waiting to pay my headlights, sigh~ 


Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

Oh, I heart about the ECU has been simplified a lot at 11+ model, and it seems so. Let me take a look. 


Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

TRY THIS: 
000000000000000000980260010085(F465D5)17C884160(8D)605C8060(24)0040 
original code: 
0000000000000000009802600100850440517C8841600D605C8060200040


The values in the brackets are the new codes. Try this first, if it doesn't work or has warning message, I will need the screenshots for each bytes. 

like this:


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

jiangleo said:


> TRY THIS:
> 000000000000000000980260010085(F465D5)17C884160(8D)605C8060(24)0040
> original code:
> 0000000000000000009802600100850440517C8841600D605C8060200040
> ...



thnaks, the shop is like an hour away. I will have to wait until I get the headlights


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

So...when is ANYONE getting their lights? Anyone order black or am I the "lone wolf"?


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

I believe there are two black on the way. No chrome ....:banghead:


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

jiangleo said:


> I believe there are two black on the way. No chrome ....:banghead:


 Who bought black? I assume the :banghead: is because you want chrome and they dont have any?


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

I bought black, the tracking shows it might be here in the next few days. I hope tomorrow, DHL is usually fast. 

I hope I like the black, I wish it had a chrome shroud.


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

The Romanian Dectane shop will have some chrome ones next week. I'm gonna order mine from them and have them brought back with a Romanian buddy on his plane ride back. Free shipping !! lol


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

NRGCC said:


> The Romanian Dectane shop will have some chrome ones next week. I'm gonna order mine from them and have them brought back with a Romanian buddy on his plane ride back. Free shipping !! lol


 Thats a good friend because the box is quite large!


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

If you still have the boxes.. could pleeeease take some measurements ? He'd like to know what to expect to make room for them


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

I actually just burned the boxes on Saturday. If I had to guess (they were flattened after I removed the lights), Id say LxWxH was roughly 24x14-16x24-26 inches


----------



## peterek (Nov 7, 2011)

got Led strip to work as parking lights 

Needed to buy resistors: 
superbrightleds : 
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/marker-lamp-load-resistor/191/832/ 

no need for Vag-Com and no bulb out error on dash


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Looks great  

Quick two questions... 

Does the color temperature of the LEDs in the headlights match the ones in your DRL lights below ? 

Are those headlights chrome or black ?


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

Same one I used. Do you have a Euro switch? What year is your cc

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


----------



## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

what did you have to do if no Vag-com work was needed? I have a euro switch and the same resistors, just waiting on the headlights.


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

But are they on as drls? We identified no coding was needed to get them to work. I applied coding to have them on as drls with switch in the auto positron.

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


----------



## tellonr (Jan 8, 2013)

kaeo773 said:


> I bought black, the tracking shows it might be here in the next few days. I hope tomorrow, DHL is usually fast.
> 
> I hope I like the black, I wish it had a chrome shroud.


 What you gonna do with old headlights?? Don't you have projector headlight already??


----------



## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

tellonr said:


> What you gonna do with old headlights?? Don't you have projector headlight already??


 no, I have a lux plus which has halogen lights.


----------



## peterek (Nov 7, 2011)

NRGCC said:


> Looks great
> 
> Quick two questions...
> 
> ...


 they are the same color but Lower DLR are little bit brighter and shine more on the side than in front 

Those are chrome headlights


----------



## peterek (Nov 7, 2011)

Turb02 said:


> Same one I used. Do you have a Euro switch? What year is your cc
> 
> Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


 2009 Lux, 

Yes I bought euroswitch some time ago


----------



## peterek (Nov 7, 2011)

kaeo773 said:


> what did you have to do if no Vag-com work was needed? I have a euro switch and the same resistors, just waiting on the headlights.


 Nothing, just connect resistors between ground and the wire that goes to parking lights, ( gray/black on drivers side and gray/red on passanger side)


----------



## peterek (Nov 7, 2011)

Turb02 said:


> But are they on as drls? We identified no coding was needed to get them to work. I applied coding to have them on as drls with switch in the auto positron.
> 
> Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


 Im always confused by DRL meaning, I think that DRL in stock CC are low Beams, 

This LED strip takes place of parking lights ( so they are always on when the low beams are on) and euro switch has one more position which is parking light, that you can turn on without turning on low beams.


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

peterek said:


> Im always confused by DRL meaning, I think that DRL in stock CC are low Beams,
> 
> This LED strip takes place of parking lights ( so they are always on when the low beams are on) and euro switch has one more position which is parking light, that you can turn on without turning on low beams.


 Correct, the stock drls are the low beams. Last week I was able to code my lights to enable the leds as the drls, which don't require the euro switch...when the low beams are activated via the auto switch (at dusk) the leds stay on too.

There is a video of them on the previous page.

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


----------



## peterek (Nov 7, 2011)

Turb02 said:


> Correct, the stock drls are the low beams. Last week I was able to code my lights to enable the leds as the drls, which don't require the euro switch...when the low beams are activated via the auto switch (at dusk) the leds stay on too.
> 
> There is a video of them on the previous page.
> 
> Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


 Before i had them wired to low beams but i was getting error on dash because nothing was connected to parking light wires


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

peterek said:


> Before i had them wired to low beams but i was getting error on dash because nothing was connected to parking light wires


 Correct, they use the factory parking light wires. I posted the coding up if you want to do that and not have to turn the euro switch to parking lights to enable them.

My Euro switch just came in today. I installed it but it wasn't necessary.

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

NRGCC said:


> The Romanian Dectane shop will have some chrome ones next week. I'm gonna order mine from them and have them brought back with a Romanian buddy on his plane ride back. Free shipping !! lol


 Lucky you bro. Waiting is my only opinion for now... 


Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


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## peterek (Nov 7, 2011)

Turb02 said:


> Correct, they use the factory parking light wires. I posted the coding up if you want to do that and not have to turn the euro switch to parking lights to enable them.
> 
> My Euro switch just came in today. I installed it but it wasn't necessary.
> 
> Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


 I like to have an option to turn them on without having them only on when low beams are on


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

peterek said:


> I like to have an option to turn them on without having them only on when low beams are on


 Mine are on as soon as I start my car. My low beams aren't on until the auto light sensor turns them on, or I physically turn them on. 

The leds are my drl with no other light on...minus the very dim Scandinavian rear parking lights as seen in the video.

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## moreno_chulo89 (Apr 12, 2013)

Can the fogs be coded as drl too?

Samsung Galaxy


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## b6driver (Jun 1, 2006)

They shipped mine 2 weeks ago. I got the smoked lights for my white car


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## b6driver (Jun 1, 2006)

moreno_chulo89 said:


> Can the fogs be coded as drl too?
> 
> Samsung Galaxy


 There is an option to, but if enabled it turns the cornering lights on instead of fogs


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

b6driver said:


> They shipped mine 2 weeks ago. I got the smoked lights for my white car


 Same color I bought for a white car. I know they are not sent out express, but mine have been stuck for a week in the same location


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

b6driver said:


> They shipped mine 2 weeks ago. I got the smoked lights for my white car


 Smoked???

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## Gorillapimp (Apr 29, 2013)

Just my 2cents but I'm starting to see these headlights on EBay aswel as used oem projectors for around 3 to 4hundred. Just my 2 cents again


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

Gorillapimp said:


> Just my 2cents but I'm starting to see these headlights on EBay aswel as used oem projectors for around 3 to 4hundred. Just my 2 cents again


 Yes, I have seen them on Ebay for 334 + 150 shipping. Most of us are paying around 330 total with shipping.


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## b6driver (Jun 1, 2006)

Turb02 said:


> Smoked???
> 
> Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


 Black


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## BETOGLI (Jul 15, 2010)

I would love the inner black ones!


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

BETOGLI said:


> I would love the inner black ones!


 The black ones are pretty nice if I do say so myself

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

I will see how I like them when they arrive, I might retrofit them with Chrome shrouds.


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## moreno_chulo89 (Apr 12, 2013)

b6driver said:


> There is an option to, but if enabled it turns the cornering lights on instead of fogs


 Kowcc has his fogs as DRLs... Is it because he has a 2012? 

Samsung Galaxy


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

moreno_chulo89 said:


> Kowcc has his fogs as DRLs... Is it because he has a 2012?
> 
> Samsung Galaxy


 cool, this is what I would also like to do since I have a 2012


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

You can just turn the fog on if you have the euro switch


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

jiangleo said:


> You can just turn the *parking and* fogs on if you have the euro switch


 Fixed


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

Turb02 said:


> Fixed


 Thanks:


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## moreno_chulo89 (Apr 12, 2013)

Kowcc has his fogs coded as Drls, so it is possible. Maybe someone with a 2012 can shine some light on this?

Samsung Galaxy


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

moreno_chulo89 said:


> Kowcc has his fogs coded as Drls, so it is possible. Maybe someone with a 2012 can shine some light on this?
> 
> Samsung Galaxy


 I was commenting on the fogs with euro switch, because if your car allows the coding for fogs as DRLs, you dont need the euro switch to accomplish that...the coding does it. 

My 2010 doesnt allow fogs as DRLs but Im ok with that.


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

moreno_chulo89 said:


> Kowcc has his fogs coded as Drls, so it is possible. Maybe someone with a 2012 can shine some light on this?
> 
> Samsung Galaxy


 I sent him a PM, and told me it will only work for a 2012 Lux Limited. I am having some Vag work done on Wed, so I will see if it will work on my 2012 lux plus. It is not that big of a deal if it doesn't work, I will just use the euro switch


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## moreno_chulo89 (Apr 12, 2013)

Turb02 said:


> I was commenting on the fogs with euro switch, because if your car allows the coding for fogs as DRLs, you dont need the euro switch to accomplish that...the coding does it.
> 
> My 2010 doesnt allow fogs as DRLs but Im ok with that.


 Guess ill have to buy an euro switch...

Samsung Galaxy


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

it seems my headlights went very well. They have been cleared customs. I should get them next week.


Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

Getting closer!! you bought the chrome lights, correct?


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

dang, mine are stuck somewhere. Mine looks like they were sent out way before his.



jiangleo: did you pay for faster shipping? Your tacking movement seems like express shipping.


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

kaeo773 said:


> jiangleo: did you pay for faster shipping? Your tacking movement seems like express shipping.


no, I paid $320 totally. And Frank didn't mention he's going to use express shipping



Turb02 said:


> Getting closer!! you bought the chrome lights, correct?


Yes, chrome finally. And he is getting more chrome version, and will send them out by the sequence who signed the form.





Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

it looks like mine finally updated as clearing customs. The speed of your shipping was fast, mine was sitting for 10days with no movement.


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## b6driver (Jun 1, 2006)

They sent mine through DHL. hasn't moved since last Wed


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

b6driver said:


> They sent mine through DHL. hasn't moved since last Wed


mine was sent though DHL as well, the same tracking number will be used though USPS once the package arrives in the US

If you looked at my tracking number it took 17 days from the time it was accepted in Germany until it arrived in the US.


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

Mine we shipped through DHL as well. Took about 3 weeks from cradle to grave. Sat in customs for ~3-6 days..

Be patient daniel-son.


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

Mine is DHL as well. But I can get the track info from USPS once it left Germany.


Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

The mailman stop by and said he is coming back to deliver the headlights, he said the box is really big for headlights.

My question is about wiring up the resistors, this is something I am not really comfortable doing unless I understand the process clearly. 

Correct me if I am wrong, I am suppose to clamp one end of the resistor to the ground wire from the Factory power socket, and then clamp the other end to the new headlight socket pin 10


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

kaeo773 said:


> The mailman stop by and said he is coming back to deliver the headlights, he said the box is really big for headlights.
> 
> My question is about wiring up the resistors, this is something I am not really comfortable doing unless I understand the process clearly.
> 
> Correct me if I am wrong, I am suppose to clamp one end of the resistor to the ground wire from the Factory power socket, and then clamp the other end to the new headlight socket pin 10


No,
Everything will be done on the car side of the wiring harness (the piece that plugs into the lights).

Connect one side to the large brown (ground) wire and the other side to the wire in pin 10 location of the wiring harness. Black/gray on one side and black/red on the other if I recall correctly.


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

Before installing them, can you take detailed pics of the back side, under the caps where the lights go, and any writing on them, so others can see. Its really hard to take pics of them once installed and this info may be very useful.

One specific pic request will be of the projector housing. Take the screw type cover off the lights and get some good shots of the back of the projector.


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

thanks, you have been a huge help :thumbup:

No problem, I have my D600 here at work, once our mailman drops it off I will take some detail pics


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

kaeo773 said:


> thanks, you have been a huge help :thumbup:


I'm glad I could help!


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

kaeo773 said:


> thanks, you have been a huge help :thumbup:
> 
> No problem, I have my D600 here at work, once our mailman drops it off I will take some detail pics


Thanks! That will help a lot!


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

jiangleo said:


> Thanks! That will help a lot!


I would think you might get yours today as well, I was not expecting it today until the mailman said I have a huge box for you from Germany. My tracking still shows out of customs with no new updates since Friday.


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

kaeo773 said:


> I would think you might get yours today as well, I was not expecting it today until the mailman said I have a huge box for you from Germany. My tracking still shows out of customs with no new updates since Friday.


Hope so, since Friday, the last tracking update shows "Inbound Out of Customs". My wife is at home today hope she can get it.


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

My wife just confirmed a huge mailbox has been delivered:laugh:


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

got them, will take pictures. What image hosting site do you guys use, they one I used only have tiny thumbnail images


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

I use photo bucket...

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

I use photobucket in PC and Tapatalk in smart phone


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## HunterRose (Feb 16, 1999)

What does the beam cut off pattern look like for these?


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

HunterRose said:


> What does the beam cut off pattern look like for these?


The cut off should be E-code.


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

HunterRose said:


> What does the beam cut off pattern look like for these?


I don't have any night shots, but I also don't have a level area to display it either.

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

jiangleo said:


> My wife just confirmed a huge mailbox has been delivered:laugh:


Wow.. you got a mailbox with them too ? Good deal! LOL


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

Low Beam Housing - projector



High Beam corner light housing


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Damn! Now that's some pro shots! I hope the front pics are coming


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

I am trying I keep getting interrupted with people needing help


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

damn it, I received the black version instead of the Chrome one. :banghead:.. 

Thanks for the photos though!


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

jiangleo said:


> damn it, I received the black version instead of the Chrome one. :banghead:..
> 
> Thanks for the photos though!


Really ??? Thought you ordered chrome !! lol


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

of course I order the Chrome one...


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

jiangleo said:


> of course I order the Chrome one...


What color is your car?

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

I thought I was lucky to get them so fast, now it seems I am totally in a bad luck.


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## Jhawkcclux (Mar 10, 2011)

I promise to read the entire thread when I have a minute, but Kaeo, I have a '12 lux plus, how much extra work is involved to get these to work with our model? VAGCOM? Resistors? Switches?


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

Turb02 said:


> What color is your car?
> 
> Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


It is Iron Gray Metallic, just like Stero1D's


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## AZ_CC (May 25, 2012)

jiangleo said:


> I thought I was lucky to get them so fast, now it seems I am totally in a bad luck.


If u really dont want the black ones....i might take them off ur hands


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

AZ_CC said:


> If u really dont want the black ones....i might take them off ur hands


Thanks for the offer. I have send an email to Frank. Let's see what he will say, may be he can reimburse the shipping fee that I send the headlights to your door.


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## AZ_CC (May 25, 2012)

jiangleo said:


> Thanks for the offer. I have send an email to Frank. Let's see what he will say, may be he can reimburse the shipping fee that I send the headlights to your door.


Ok just pm me when u know :beer:


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

:banghead:


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

Jhawkcclux said:


> I promise to read the entire thread when I have a minute, but Kaeo, I have a '12 lux plus, how much extra work is involved to get these to work with our model? VAGCOM? Resistors? Switches?


I am not sure, the guy who was doing vag-com was having issues trying to find the correct setting. All of the info I have been reading was for 2009-2011, and our 2012 is different. 

The lights will work with no work needed. If you don't want your low beam DRL on at the same time the LEDs are on you need to turn them off with Vag-com. If you don't want to see a bulb out error, you need to install the resistors.


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

jiangleo said:


> It is Iron Gray Metallic, just like Stero1D's


Did you take a look at the projector? Thoughts?

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

Turb02 said:


> Did you take a look at the projector? Thoughts?
> 
> Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


They look pretty big IMO, which is good, I have send the photos to theretrofitsource.com. I will keep you updated.


Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

jiangleo said:


> They look pretty big IMO, which is good, I have send the photos to theretrofitsource.com. I will keep you updated.
> 
> 
> Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


Cool, thanks!

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## Jhawkcclux (Mar 10, 2011)

Thanks, I appreciate it. I will probably wait til fall to look deeper in to this, hopefully someone w a 2012 will figure out the bugs. Just too much going on and too damn hot in midwest to work on it now.

Odd thing, my car is a '12, but had to be one of the very first since it has an actual build date of dec 2010. So who know what electronics I have in it:screwy:


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

I guess I should not have started this last night.

Turbo: Did you need to take off the front bumper cover to remove the headlights? I am having troubles trying to get the headlights out, I have all the bolts removed


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

kaeo773 said:


> I guess I should not have started this last night.
> 
> Turbo: Did you need to take off the front bumper cover to remove the headlights? I am having troubles trying to get the headlights out, I have all the bolts removed


No. All you need to do is flex the bumper down and out a bit, and wiggle the light up then forward. If you look at the DEPO (Dectane) lights you will see "fingers" on the front of the light. That is whats keeping the light under the bumper. A little flex and youll be flying through the install.

Took me about 45 minutes total to remove and install the lights.


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

thanks, back to the garage now to get my car fixed before work:banghead:


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Eh.. I'm sure you can drive to work without headlights. Your car will be more aerodynamic that way.. lol


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

kaeo773 said:


> thanks, back to the garage now to get my car fixed before work:banghead:


DO IT!



NRGCC said:


> Eh.. I'm sure you can drive to work without headlights. Your car will be more aerodynamic that way.. lol


Wont need them during the day anyways, as long as the blinkers work...right?


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

one side done, it looks like they have more of a gap then oem on the top corner on the wheel side


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

kaeo773 said:


> one side done, it looks like they have more of a gap then oem on the top corner on the wheel side


The metal pieces that the bolt goes through on the lights, can be spun in and out to make adjustments.


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

it is better now, those bolts though the fog lights are a pain. I used one of those interior trim pry bars on that part of the bumper in front of the headlight tabs, and it out easy.

Now that I have my grill out time to take it and get the chrome trim and the the seam filled and painted to make look like one piece.


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

kaeo773 said:


> it is better now, those bolts though the fog lights are a pain. I used one of those interior trim pry bars on that part of the bumper in front of the headlight tabs, and it out easy.
> 
> Now that I have my grill out time to take it and get the chrome trim and the the seam filled and painted to make look like one piece.


Good to hear! Nice touch on the grill, Ive got plans for my grill too. Eventually Ill start a new thread showing what Ive done...if I ever finish


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Updated the first post with relevant information about these headlights. If there's more info to be added please let me know...


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## brunoxmatoss (May 24, 2013)

I hear dectane has a bad reputation for shipping products with burnt LEDs. Anyone experience?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2


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## R.Byers (Apr 26, 2010)

Hmm, I like these minus the LED strip. anyone ever tried to build their own retrofits with factory housings or euro housings? This may be my next project.


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

brunoxmatoss said:


> I hear dectane has a bad reputation for shipping products with burnt LEDs. Anyone experience?
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2


I think this has happened to only one person, all of mine work.


Someone has done a regular retrofit with oem headlights. I would like my new black set better if they had a chrome shroud.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5960701-2009-CC-Lux-Retrofit-Projector-Headlights-DIY!!!


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

I may be looking to unload my factory headlights...


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Turb02 said:


> I may be looking to unload my factory headlights...


I decided to keep mine and put them back in when I trade the car in down the road... For sure you'd get more for the Dectane's.


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## b6driver (Jun 1, 2006)

Still stuck at Germany


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## peterek (Nov 7, 2011)

kaeo773 said:


> I think this has happened to only one person, all of mine work.
> 
> 
> Someone has done a regular retrofit with oem headlights. I would like my new black set better if they had a chrome shroud.
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5960701-2009-CC-Lux-Retrofit-Projector-Headlights-DIY!!!


Yup it happened to my, one led is not working in my driver side headlight


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Found some cheap resistors here http://www.ebay.com/itm/370824259687?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Gonna run those for my headlight LEDs...


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

NRGCC said:


> Found some cheap resistors here http://www.ebay.com/itm/370824259687?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
> 
> Gonna run those for my headlight LEDs...


Total price Is the same as the linked one's I bought, if you have to pay shipping on both

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Yeah. They don't charge double shipping though. I bought like 3 sets though and the shipping was around 4 bucks for all them. I'm doing some LED tailights experiments. Heh


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

NRGCC said:


> Yeah. They don't charge double shipping though. I bought like 3 sets though and the shipping was around 4 bucks for all them. I'm doing some LED tailights experiments. Heh


:thumbup:

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## BETOGLI (Jul 15, 2010)

Turb02 said:


> :thumbup:
> 
> Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.




+1, waiting to see the results... As well as a DIY would be awesome!


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## b6driver (Jun 1, 2006)

anyone else here still have not received their lights? Mine are still stuck at Germany... must be the premium mule service or something :screwy:


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## mango_springroll (Dec 25, 2012)

i'd like them but not sure if i want to spend 500+ on them... 


either that or dp, hahaha


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

mango_springroll said:


> i'd like them but not sure if i want to spend 500+ on them...
> 
> 
> either that or dp, hahaha



Then pay ~340 and buy them from Orange tuning or Dectane...

Im confused.


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

b6driver said:


> anyone else here still have not received their lights? Mine are still stuck at Germany... must be the premium mule service or something :screwy:


My second set in on the way, I think you may need to contact Frank, and let him to check. It is not normal. 



mango_springroll said:


> i'd like them but not sure if i want to spend 500+ on them...
> 
> 
> either that or dp, hahaha


I paid $320. It is Depo headlights, if your "dp" means Depo . I saw the trademark on the headlights. May be Dectane just customized them.


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

DP=downpipe.

Dectane is just a company that sells them. Theyre DEPO brand.


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## b6driver (Jun 1, 2006)

jiangleo said:


> My second set in on the way, I think you may need to contact Frank, and let him to check. It is not normal.


I let Frank know and he was pretty responsive on the matter. He is checking on the carrier and will update me.


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## bizzheng (Dec 20, 2012)

Seems like the chrome ones are out of stock? ......


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

b6driver said:


> I let Frank know and he was pretty responsive on the matter. He is checking on the carrier and will update me.


it took me 21 days from when it shipped to arrive. How things work for this economy international shipping, packages sit in processing status until enough packages are being sent the the same destination country.

jiangleo got his super quick in about a week total. I am assuming they came on the same flight over here since we they arrived at the same airport at the same time. Just give it some time, your headlights are just waiting for a flying mate like mine were.


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Kinda hard to believe no other packages are being sent from Europe/Germany to USA for several days, that they actually have to sit that long. There must be some other reason... like waiting to clear customs inspections or something.


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

So from my preliminary testing, it seems the 25ohm resistors that are being recommended in this thread might be too low. I've done some brake light testing with LEDs and while the 25ohm resistors work just fine, they get insanely hot, as they should... there's a lot of current going through them. Anyway, I decided to daisy chain 6 of them in series and the brake light LED still started up and worked just fine with no errors being shown on the dash, however the resistors were barely warm to the touch. So if we can get away with 150ohms (6x25) we could probably get away with either a much smaller (physically) resistor and still have the LEDs in the headlights light up just fine. 

I will do some testing once I get mine and post my results. I will go as high as the body control module will allow, before throwing errors. I'd guess 200 ohms. That way, the resistors will stay cool.


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

NRGCC said:


> So from my preliminary testing, it seems the 25ohm resistors that are being recommended in this thread might be too low. I've done some brake light testing with LEDs and while the 25ohm resistors work just fine, they get insanely hot, as they should... there's a lot of current going through them. Anyway, I decided to daisy chain 6 of them in series and the brake light LED still started up and worked just fine with no errors being shown on the dash, however the resistors were barely warm to the touch. So if we can get away with 150ohms (6x25) we could probably get away with either a much smaller (physically) resistor and still have the LEDs in the headlights light up just fine.
> 
> I will do some testing once I get mine and post my results. I will go as high as the body control module will allow, before throwing errors. I'd guess 200 ohms. That way, the resistors will stay cool.




Awesome!! please let us know what resistors work and stay cool to the touch. I mentioned when I did the testing/install that my IR thermometer showed +/-230* after only several minutes.

Much hotter than I want.


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Yeah the one 25ohm resistor I put in there got super hot within seconds. That's almost 6 watts going it! Can't have that... too risky. My headlights are supposed to be delivered within a couple days, so by this weekend I should have some results


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Got some supplies at the local electronics store.. Ready to test !! :laugh:


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

So I tested... At 810 ohms the LEDs come on and stay on. At around 900 ohm they start to flicker for a few seconds.. then they eventually turn off. So we need to stay around 800 ohms. The 5 watt resistors I'm using get warm to the touch still, but this is in 120 degree weather mind you. If we get a 25watt aluminum resistor then heat wont even be an issue anymore. Personally, I think I'm going order one of these NTE "flameproof resistors". It's 99 cents for two. Can't go wrong with that. I'll let everyone know what I found...


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

NRGCC said:


> So I tested... At 810 ohms the LEDs come on and stay on. At around 900 ohm they start to flicker for a few seconds.. then they eventually turn off. So we need to stay around 800 ohms. The 5 watt resistors I'm using get warm to the touch still, but this is in 120 degree weather mind you. If we get a 25watt aluminum resistor then heat wont even be an issue anymore. Personally, I think I'm going order one of these NTE "flameproof resistors". It's 99 cents for two. Can't go wrong with that. I'll let everyone know what I found...


Please do. The superbrightled resistor is 25 watt 25 ohms. What wattage is the 800 ohm resistor youre using?


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Turb02 said:


> Please do. The superbrightled resistor is 25 watt 25 ohms. What wattage is the 800 ohm resistor youre using?


The ones I'm using are 5 watts. To be honest, I don't even know if they do get warm. Could be that they just get warm because of the ambient temperature, right after being taken out of an air conditioned office.


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

I think this would be great...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/25W-800-Ohm...750?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35c3d23c16


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

I held off installing the superbright resistors in my headlights in hopes to find something that puts off less heat

I just saw this on Ebay 25x 800ohm, will this work
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25W-800-Ohm-5-Wirewound-Aluminum-Housed-Power-Resistor-Green-/230918601750


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Yep that's the one I just posted. That will work for sure for LED tailights. I haven't tested on the headlights yet, but I don't think it'd be different. If you want to wait another couple days until I get my own set of headlights, you'll know for sure.


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

haha we must have posted at the same time. I am in no rush to to find the best solution.


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Yep. Just ordered like 10 of these... 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NTE-10W182-...239?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53faab0bc7

Cheap and powerful.


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)




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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

NRGCC said:


> Yeah the one 25ohm resistor I put in there got super hot within seconds. That's almost 6 watts going it! Can't have that... too risky. My headlights are supposed to be delivered within a couple days, so by this weekend I should have some results


Actually, I heard a theory that says you can avoid the error message by increasing the LEDs (parking lights) intensity to 112% via VCDS. I will test it out when I have the headlights. But even it would work, will short the led life though.


Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

jiangleo said:


> Actually, I heard a theory that says you can avoid the error message by increasing the LEDs (parking lights) intensity to 112% via VCDS. I will test it out when I have the headlights. But even it would work, will short the led life though.
> 
> 
> Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


That's interesting, but how much shorter life? 

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Not enough to worry about I'm sure. As it is right now, our outputs are pulse width modulated which will dim the LEDs some. As far as I know, the brakes receive a 90% duty cycle PWM so.. they're at %90 of their full brightness if you use LEDs. I'm sure the same applies to the parking lights. We could combat that with one of those "HID kit capacitors" which I already bought  The headlights have been delivered today at my work, so tomorrow morning I'll be doing some real testing.


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

NRGCC said:


> Not enough to worry about I'm sure. As it is right now, our outputs are pulse width modulated which will dim the LEDs some. As far as I know, the brakes receive a 90% duty cycle PWM so.. they're at %90 of their full brightness if you use LEDs. I'm sure the same applies to the parking lights. We could combat that with one of those "HID kit capacitors" which I already bought  The headlights have been delivered today at my work, so tomorrow morning I'll be doing some real testing.


Cool, looking forward to see the results 


Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

.
.
. . . . . *I got chrome on my CC with 30 ohm 10 watt resistors on each side to turn off park light bad cel light/messages (make sure you isolate the heat sinks)*
.
.


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Wish you would have taken better pictures of the actual headlights...


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

.
.
. . . . . . . *Well, it will hard to take pics, they are chrome. Here is at night:*
.
.


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## mango_springroll (Dec 25, 2012)

m4f1050 said:


> .
> .
> . . . . . *I got chrome on my CC with 30 ohm 10 watt resistors on each side to turn off park light bad cel light/messages (make sure you isolate the heat sinks)*
> .
> .


damn you're DRL'd out! lol 

Does the resistor get hot since it's only 10w 30ohm?


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## mango_springroll (Dec 25, 2012)

jiangleo said:


> My second set in on the way, I think you may need to contact Frank, and let him to check. It is not normal.
> 
> 
> 
> I paid $320. It is Depo headlights, if your "dp" means Depo . I saw the trademark on the headlights. May be Dectane just customized them.


Where did you buy them for $320? From the Orange Tuning site or Dectane site?


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

mango_springroll said:


> Where did you buy them for $320? From the Orange Tuning site or Dectane site?


Orange tuning.. group buy...


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

mango_springroll said:


> Where did you buy them for $320? From the Orange Tuning site or Dectane site?


Orange-Tuning but they don't have USA as a country in their website, I am trying to find out if they fixed that already.

Link is

```
http://www.orange-tuning.de/shop/dectane-passat-headlight-dayline-chrome-p-171176.html
```


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

mango_springroll said:


> damn you're DRL'd out! lol
> 
> Does the resistor get hot since it's only 10w 30ohm?


And yes, the resistor gets hot, but it's the right size to not trigger the parking lights CEL. Do you know of any other resistor size/watt that won't get hot and not trigger the parking lights CEL? I had to put a heat sink on the bottom of these to dissipate the heat, works well. Also I cut the parking light cable and wired it to ground and lowered the parking light dim to 1 so it wouldn't get hot, no biggie. And I am running +12v and the center DRL's on the same +12v with a switch to turn them on/off which turns off when I turn the car off if they are on (using the wiper pump fuse lower one that's 20amp fuse)










EDIT: When I say it gets hot I mean warm. Because I removed the heat sinks just now, went to Denny's to get some breakfast, left the parking lights on, came back (about an hour's worth) and touched them and they were "hot" but a kind of hot you can hold in your fingers all day long, so I wouldn't worry about it if you have VCDS you can get that specific resistor and never get parking light CEL and run the lights straight to a 12v source and you can even use a variable resistor if you are worried about burning up the LED's. I know there are 8, and at 3.3v I am assuming they have them wired in 2 sets of 4 parallel.... I know before I set the parking light dim to 1% ( value 1 ) it would get SUPER HOT where you couldn't hold it in your fingers thats why I had put a heat sink. I then found the thread about lowering the parking light dim and never bothered to check. I can even put some black electrical tape on them since they don't get that hot anymore. Just gotta be careful if that dim gets changed it will melt that tape and anything against it I bet...


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Have you been reading the thread at all ? I guess not... lol


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> Have you been reading the thread at all ? I guess not... lol


Yes I have, and I just corrected my post to specify I DO NOT USE the parking light cable. And besides, isnt the subject "Dectane projector headlights with DRL LED strips" so we can post anything about Dectane headlights with DRL LEDs was my assumption. Im sure some will want to do the same I did and will ask me how I did x or y thing.. Why is my post such a big deal? Did you read the 3rd post?


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

m4f1050 said:


> Yes I have, and I just corrected my post to specify I DO NOT USE the parking light cable. And besides, isnt the subject "Dectane projector headlights with DRL LED strips" so we can post anything about Dectane headlights with DRL LEDs was my assumption. Im sure some will want to do the same I did and will ask me how I did x or y thing.. Why is my post such a big deal? Did you read the 3rd post?


Whatever smartass. Find your own answers then...


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

So go the headlights today and did some benchtesting on the LEDs. It seems they use an internal regulator and the LEDs are wired in parallel to each other. I fed them 8-12-14-15-16 volts and the brightness stays the same. They consume about 64mA which is in line with what's stamped on the housing "LED 0.8W". Kinda disappointed... 0.8W is very low for 8 LEDs. I would have expected at least half a watt on each LED. That would have required aluminum heatsinks and it would drive the price even higher. Oh well.

The headlights are made by DEPO as other people have mentioned. I'll post some pics in the next post.

Since the LEDs use so little current, wiring shouldn't be an issue. I'm going to test out an 800 ohm resistor.


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> Whatever smartass. Find your own answers then...


I don't think im a smartass, thanks for the name. Amazing how people nowadays insult like its something normal and polite... jeez


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

I am too disappointed on the brightness.


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> So go the headlights today and did some benchtesting on the LEDs. It seems they use an internal regulator and the LEDs are wired in parallel to each other. I fed them 8-12-14-15-16 volts and the brightness stays the same. They consume about 64mA which is in line with what's stamped on the housing "LED 0.8W". Kinda disappointed... 0.8W is very low for 8 LEDs. I would have expected at least half a watt on each LED. That would have required aluminum heatsinks and it would drive the price even higher. Oh well.
> 
> The headlights are made by DEPO as other people have mentioned. I'll post some pics in the next post.
> 
> Since the LEDs use so little current, wiring shouldn't be an issue. I'm going to test out an 800 ohm resistor.


An Idea... If we open up an European switch and change the order the fog lights come on we can use the rear as DRL and move it to the 1st position, then pull twice for FOG lamps.


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Here's the pictures I took this morning.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/u3gmh0zbbqxf4tj/gMU1mGFw9P

Took pics of inside the projector. You can see the cutoff plate in there. The black epoxied box is the LED controller. I wonder if we can enable the adjustment motor in our american cc's.


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> Here's the pictures I took this morning.
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/u3gmh0zbbqxf4tj/gMU1mGFw9P
> 
> Took pics of inside the projector. You can see the cutoff plate in there. The black epoxied box is the LED controller. I wonder if we can enable the adjustment motor in our american cc's.


My headlight plug only has 5 cables, I see your pic has 8 pins? 1,2,3 (or is it 1,2 and 6?) are not used on my US 2010 vw CC.


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

It has 8 pins but only 6 are used. I dont know how many wires are on the plug in the car.. havent been outside to look at it yet.


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

I just installed some Hids in these lights, how do you adjust the vertical aim? I don't see the same type of adjustment screw like the oem ones.


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

kaeo773 said:


> I just installed some Hids in these lights, how do you adjust the vertical aim? I don't see the same type of adjustment screw like the oem ones.


I know how to raise/lower them, I just adjusted mine. It has a white (hex at first, then Phillips screwdriver next) adjustment on the inside part of it. I would personally recommend use a 6mm hex. I noticed one in the corner of the lamp too? All I needed was level them out so I didn't keep looking.


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

kaeo773 said:


> I just installed some Hids in these lights, how do you adjust the vertical aim? I don't see the same type of adjustment screw like the oem ones.


There is an adjustment screw on the back of the light, and one that you have to access with a long screw driver, through a hole in the sheet metal (straight down towards ground).


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

m4f1050 said:


> I know how to raise/lower them, I just adjusted mine. It has a white (hex at first, then Phillips screwdriver next) adjustment on the inside part of it. I would personally recommend use a 6mm hex. I noticed one in the corner of the lamp too? All I needed was level them out so I didn't keep looking.


Post some cutoff pics of the HIDs you installed!


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

NRGCC said:


> Here's the pictures I took this morning.
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/u3gmh0zbbqxf4tj/gMU1mGFw9P
> 
> Took pics of inside the projector. You can see the cutoff plate in there. The black epoxied box is the LED controller. I wonder if we can enable the adjustment motor in our american cc's.


If you had to guess, do you think the projector would fit out the back of the housing, without taking the housing apart?

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

Adjustments I found...


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

So the easy access one is for up & down, and the one that needs a long bit is left/right?


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

kaeo773 said:


> So the easy access one is for up & down, and the one that needs a long bit is left/right?


Correct about the easy access one. I don't know about the other one. Like I said I only needed up/down adjustment and since mine are installed I didn't have a chance to look around.


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

m4f1050 said:


> Correct about the easy access one. I don't know about the other one. Like I said I only needed up/down adjustment and since mine are installed I didn't have a chance to look around.


All I need is up/down as well, just wanted to confirm before I started messing with things


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Turb02 said:


> If you had to guess, do you think the projector would fit out the back of the housing, without taking the housing apart?
> 
> Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


I think it might.


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

Turb02 said:


> Post some cutoff pics of the HIDs you installed!


Here is the cut off: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...to-your-CC&p=81584811&viewfull=1#post81584811 

Not bad


Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

m4f1050 said:


> Adjustments I found...


Let me contact Frank to ask about the adjustment.


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

jiangleo said:


> Let me contact Frank to ask about the adjustment.


Ok, yes, let's make sure we are adjusting them properly. I did adjust mine on the easy one that I circled.


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

m4f1050 said:


> Ok, yes, let's make sure we are adjusting them properly. I did adjust mine on the easy one that I circled.


I have send him an email along with your photo shot


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

jiangleo said:


> I have send him an email along with your photo shot


Thanks!


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Just finished my install tonite. Took about 40 minutes to physically replace the headlights. Another hour to tinker with the LEDs and VCDS. Finally settled on a 150 ohm resistor. Going to order some 10 watt ones for piece of mind. Got 5W ones in there now and they get... warmish.

Had to VCDS the changes below as described earlier in the thread to get the LEDs to come on and stay on without the main headlights.

In the 09-Cent. Elect module,
1. byte 00 change to E9 (active Scandinavia DRL); just check the Scandinavia DRL in bit 3, and keep other settings as you have.
2. byte 11 change to 64 (set the front parking lights to 100%)
3. byte 12 change to 01 (dim the rear parking lights to 1%)
4. byte 20 change to 00 (disable using low beams as DRL) 

I'm satisfied with how they look and work. The LEDs could be a little brighter IMO, you can barely tell they're on unless you look at them head on. Will see how they look during the day, but I think I'll be disappointed. LOL


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

OK, below is the message from Frank about the level adjustment:

the technical department told me that you will find the manual adjustment for "left/right" on the outer side of each headlight, close to the fenders. Can be adjusted from the top. "Low/high" is another screw.


Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

NRGCC said:


> Just finished my install tonite. Took about 40 minutes to physically replace the headlights. Another hour to tinker with the LEDs and VCDS. Finally settled on a 150 ohm resistor. Going to order some 10 watt ones for piece of mind. Got 5W ones in there now and they get... warmish.
> 
> Had to VCDS the changes below as described earlier in the thread to get the LEDs to come on and stay on without the main headlights.
> 
> ...


Good to know you have installed them. Try to set the LEDs to 112%, Hex: 70.



Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

jiangleo said:


> Good to know you have installed them. Try to set the LEDs to 112%, Hex: 70.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


Why do you say that? Think they will get brighter? I'll do some more tests this morning..


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

NRGCC said:


> Why do you say that? Think they will get brighter? I'll do some more tests this morning..


I am not sure. I heard about that can avoid the bulb out message. But since the LEDs are only 0.8w totally, that may not help. 

but may be it can increase the brightness..


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

We'll know in a few hours after I play around. I'll connect them directly to the battery and see if there's a difference. If they pull anything less than 62mA we know they're on a lower than 100 percent duty cycle.


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

jiangleo said:


> Good to know you have installed them. Try to set the LEDs to 112%, Hex: 70.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


I don't think it will change the brightness I wired them straight to +12v along with my middle turn signal/drl and without to test and got same brightness. Let us know if there is some trick to getting these brighter.. I think they have a regulator to avoid burning them. I also didn't use the Parking Light switch, I used my own switch and put a 30.1 ohms 10 watt and lowered the front parking light dim to 1% so the resistor would not get hot. I bet it gets warmer from the engine than from the load at 1%.. You don't have front parking light so why not use a separate switch. You can then leave your lights off and not worry about rear parking lights. At night you can turn on parking lights for rear (I have the euro switch - and another idea is to open the switch and switch the rear foglights with front foglights that way a single pull can turn on the DRL's and a double pull the foglights) So many ways so many decisions...


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

For sure they have a regulator. You can see it in the pics I took..


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> For sure they have a regulator. You can see it in the pics I took..


Yeah, they seem to have a control module / regulator (not sure what it's called at first I thought they had motors to adjust and maybe the module controlled that but not sure) but that's why it won't go brighter, maybe if we bypass this module but we have to then regulate the voltage and maybe burn the LED's if they are cheap. I hate expensive and rare to find toys like these...! LED goes out, you have to buy not 1, but 2 again.


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

So on the drive to work this morning my 135ohm resistor seems not to be enough. The right side LEDs turn off with an error intermittently. I put in an 100 ohm resistor and that fixed it, for now. Will update everyone else with the final value. Wish the parking light output was more forgiving like the brake lights output where I can run an 800 ohm resistor and be fine. Eh.. it is what it is. Still better than 25 ohms !! We should get 1/4 of the heat generated by that with 100 ohms


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

m4f1050 said:


> Yeah, they seem to have a control module / regulator (not sure what it's called at first I thought they had motors to adjust and maybe the module controlled that but not sure) but that's why it won't go brighter, maybe if we bypass this module but we have to then regulate the voltage and maybe burn the LED's if they are cheap. I hate expensive and rare to find toys like these...! LED goes out, you have to buy not 1, but 2 again.


They do and the LEDs do seem cheap. They're the cheapo "Pirhana" type. Wish they would have put in some cree's or osram's at least. One day, I will take the housings apart and replace them with proper LEDs. They're super easy to get to once you open the housings.

Gotta say the light output is quite different than with my HIDs in the halogen housings. Those things FILLED the road with light. These new headlights with projectors.. not so much. I can see, but... man was it nice seeing everything at night before. Heh


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> They do and the LEDs do seem cheap. They're the cheapo "Pirhana" type. Wish they would have put in some cree's or osram's at least. One day, I will take the housings apart and replace them with proper LEDs. They're super easy to get to once you open the housings.
> 
> Gotta say the light output is quite different than with my HIDs in the halogen housings. Those things FILLED the road with light. These new headlights with projectors.. not so much. I can see, but... man was it nice seeing everything at night before. Heh


Yeah, I am waiting for my H7 HID's to get here to replace the stock projector ones. Getting some 55w it should help some, it did on my Expedition when I installed them. Another thing to tackle.. Hope they don't nag like the P lights... I even ordered an H11 set for the Fog lights, both 6000k (white)


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Yeah.. my 35watt DDM kit seems inadequate now. I'm worried about heat with the 55watt kit though...


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> Yeah.. my 35watt DDM kit seems inadequate now. I'm worried about heat with the 55watt kit though...


Same here, I know stock ones would be better for 55w (better built, better quality parts) but we are all on the same boat... At least I know the fog lights will work good. I'll try to keep my projectors off while not needed. With foglights and the DRL's I can see ok at night without having to turn on the headlights. What material is the housing of the projectors? I wish I would have taken more pictures (like u said!) before installing and also done some research... Wonder if replacing the whole projector would be a better option like someone has in mind, asking if it fits through the hole..?


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Well the projector itself seems fine. It's metal. Not sure if aluminum or magnesium. or....? But the surrounding parts (including the plastic reflectors for the high beams, the ballast, the LED controller!!, all the wires) have to endure the extreme heat of the HIDs in that small confined space behind the projector and the end cap.

So I don't know... I'll have to see how the 35 kitt fares first. I'm gonna check on it in a few days to see if there's any signs of overheating with it.


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> Well the projector itself seems fine. It's metal. Not sure if aluminum or magnesium. or....? But the surrounding parts (including the plastic reflectors for the high beams, the ballast, the LED controller!!, all the wires) have to endure the extreme heat of the HIDs in that small confined space behind the projector and the end cap.
> 
> So I don't know... I'll have to see how the 35 kitt fares first. I'm gonna check on it in a few days to see if there's any signs of overheating with it.


Ok. Hopefully whatever metal it is it holds the heat in...


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Some pics of the LED's...









That amber needs to gooooo now.. Lol


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

That looks good to me  

How bright do they need to be? 

Once you figure out the biggest OHM resistor we can use, please post up specs and a link to them.


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

Turb02 said:


> That looks good to me
> 
> How bright do they need to be?
> 
> Once you figure out the biggest OHM resistor we can use, please post up specs and a link to them.


Pics on a sunny day you barely see the LED's... It still looks nice, looks like any other (except AUDI they make theirs so bright I envy) but we got what we paid for IMHO. Heck, when they came out it was like $500 to get these. A stock headlight costs way more than these, nice touch to add these I would say. I talked to Orange-Tuning and they said they had 1 available (about 2 days ago) and their next shipment would be in 2 weeks, so subtract 2 days to those 2 weeks and you can order another set. I hope they keep a spare for when one of mine melts by using higher watt bulbs


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

m4f1050 said:


> Pics on a sunny day you barely see the LED's... It still looks nice, looks like any other (except AUDI they make theirs so bright I envy) but we got what we paid for IMHO.


Get what you pay for is very true, but for the price, they work great!

Im happy with them. Im sure the LEDs can be upgraded, if you really wanted to open them up and do that.

Im still considering replacing the projectors...as long as they can come out the back of the housing. Down the road, after I drop the car on coils.


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

Turb02 said:


> Get what you pay for is very true, but for the price, they work great!
> 
> Im happy with them. Im sure the LEDs can be upgraded, if you really wanted to open them up and do that.
> 
> Im still considering replacing the projectors...as long as they can come out the back of the housing. Down the road, after I drop the car on coils.


Exactly. I had to correct my initial post to include that these cost $500 at first! Back then, yeah, I would be leery about getting a set, now I can get a 2nd one if one goes bad me fiddling around...


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

Turb02 said:


> Get what you pay for is very true, but for the price, they work great!
> 
> Im happy with them. Im sure the LEDs can be upgraded, if you really wanted to open them up and do that.
> 
> Im still considering replacing the projectors...as long as they can come out the back of the housing. Down the road, after I drop the car on coils.


+1 coils!!!! All the way! I am glad I did. Because I was getting +35mm offset rims and went +40mm instead and now I can adjust lower


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Turb02 said:


> That looks good to me
> 
> How bright do they need to be?
> 
> Once you figure out the biggest OHM resistor we can use, please post up specs and a link to them.


Well they worked fine all day yesterday and during some night driving with my 50 watt resistors hooked up. I went to my local Fry's and bought two of them for $1.49 each and made my own little harness for them. Here's some pics...


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> Well they worked fine all day yesterday and during some night driving with my 50 watt resistors hooked up. I went to my local Fry's and bought two of them for $1.49 each and made my own little harness for them. Here's some pics...


Did you get a chance to see if they were wired in parallel and if they have a resistor we can swap (try to get brighter LED's on there and adjust their resistance or we have to go by the resistance they are using ATM. Usually they wire these in pairs, using 2 resistors? Correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

From what I noticed looking inside they are ALL wired in parallel to the output of that LED controller box.


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> From what I noticed looking inside they are ALL wired in parallel to the output of that LED controller box.


AH! So 8 LED's in parallel... Could you measure the voltage out on this module? I should've done what u said and did more research...


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

I did. Came up to 24 volts ! lol


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> I did. Came up to 24 volts ! lol


We can make these brighter, they *SHOULD* hold up to 3.3v

We have to wire in parallel another 2.4v (or find how to control this module to pump out more voltage.)


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

m4f1050 said:


> Pics on a sunny day you barely see the LED's... It still looks nice, looks like any other (except AUDI they make theirs so bright I envy) but we got what we paid for IMHO. Heck, when they came out it was like $500 to get these. A stock headlight costs way more than these, nice touch to add these I would say. I talked to Orange-Tuning and they said they had 1 available (about 2 days ago) and their next shipment would be in 2 weeks, so subtract 2 days to those 2 weeks and you can order another set. I hope they keep a spare for when one of mine melts by using higher watt bulbs


I haven't seen these LEDs in person. But in fact, Mercedes and Porsche's are not very bright if you've seen them on the road. 


Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

That wasn't a typo.. I did measure 24 volts. It looks like a step up controller. You can't modify it as it's completely encased in epoxy. But we COULD plug in another controller and run it on the outside of the headlight housing.


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> That wasn't a typo.. I did measure 24 volts. It looks like a step up controller. You can't modify it as it's completely encased in epoxy. But we COULD plug in another controller and run it on the outside of the headlight housing.


Ok, so we can get a regulator (even variable to play with (or get a variable resistor and put it in series) - making sure we don't go over 2.4v - always with the meter chekcing) and pump some juice on the side (series) on that +24v cable.


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

To do this right, we would need a constant current circuit. That's how the big boys do it in OEM applications. It's doable and I WILL mess with it to see if I can get more brightness out of the LEDs once the heat here in Vegas dies down a bit. Too damn to do anything outside... Wish I had an air conditioned garage. Sigh.


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> To do this right, we would need a constant current circuit. That's how the big boys do it in OEM applications. It's doable and I WILL mess with it to see if I can get more brightness out of the LEDs once the heat here in Vegas dies down a bit. Too damn to do anything outside... Wish I had an air conditioned garage. Sigh.


You are blessed you have a garage you can worn ok. Mine is filled.  Rainy season, I can't barely work on my lov.. er CC


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

jiangleo said:


> I haven't seen these LEDs in person. But in fact, Mercedes and Porsche's are not very bright if you've seen them on the road.
> 
> 
> Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


They aren't.. but they are A LOT brighter than the ones in these headlights I can tell you that  Ours are only noticeable if you look straight on. An that's to be expected, because there's no proper reflector around them to make them appear bigger. All the light you really see, is the head of the LED, which is tiny.


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

Compare to the LEDs, I concerned more about the low beam light output.


Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

I think the light output is fine...


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

NRGCC said:


> I think the light output is fine...


I read that you said with the same HID kit it became darker compare to the oem halogen housing 


Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> I think the light output is fine...


Mine looked fine after I aligned them... Only worry I have is realigning after rim and maybe raising a bit my front for the 20" rims...


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

jiangleo said:


> I read that you said with the same HID kit it became darker compare to the oem halogen housing
> 
> 
> Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


Well yeah.. because HIDs in halogen housings are brighter than the sun!! I just got used to too much light output! But that doesn't mean the projectors are bad...


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

Thanks! Any chance to have a light pattern or cut off photo shot? 


Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

It'll have to wait till tonite. The cut off is perfect... light patten looks like a big O shape with the top cutoff... When you turn on the high beams, the top half goes away (It's a solenoid in there that clicks).


----------



## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> Well they worked fine all day yesterday and during some night driving with my 50 watt resistors hooked up. I went to my local Fry's and bought two of them for $1.49 each and made my own little harness for them. Here's some pics...
> 
> So do these put off less heat than the superbright resistors 25 Ohm, 25? I am a little confused when you said 50w resistors, the picture says 25w 100ohm. When both of them are hooked up, does that make the 50w?
> 
> Sorry for my lack of knowledge of this resistor info, I just want to install the best resistor set up with the lest heat displacement.


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

kaeo773 said:


> NRGCC said:
> 
> 
> > Well they worked fine all day yesterday and during some night driving with my 50 watt resistors hooked up. I went to my local Fry's and bought two of them for $1.49 each and made my own little harness for them. Here's some pics...
> ...


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

I am not very good at the electrical things, but just want to mention that so far as my research, under 12V supply voltage, almost all the resistors which are used for canceling error message or flicking are either 25ohm 25w or 6ohm 50w. 
25w for LED DRL and parking lights, and 50w for the turn signal and tail lights. 

I don't know the reason, but I believe there must be a very good reason or reasons to let all the retailers sell the same type(s) resistors for this propose. 

And here is a little information about how to choose the right resistor
http://www.instructables.com/id/Choosing-The-Resistor-To-Use-With-LEDs/


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

jiangleo said:


> I am not very good at the electrical things, but just want to mention that so far as my research, under 12V supply voltage, almost all the resistors which are used for canceling error message or flicking are either 25ohm 25w or 6ohm 50w.
> 25w for LED DRL and parking lights, and 50w for the turn signal and tail lights.
> 
> I don't know the reason, but I believe there must be a very good reason to let all the retailers sell the same type(s) resistors for this propose.
> ...


I'll tell you what their reason is... nobody would buy anything else. They all follow what others have done in the past.

You do whatever you want to do  But as an electronics engineer with former training, I'll tell you that a 100ohm resistor will work better than a 25ohm resistor and will put out less heat. They will both do the job just fine. I just prefer a cooler running resistor.

The way this value is chosen is pretty simple. The body control module expects a certain amount of current to flow through when the parking light is on. It's usually about 1 amp. That tells it the bulb is alive and well. If you decrease that to.. say.....0.5A... it might decide that there's something wrong or not and THAT depends on the engineer that designed it. I'm sure they put in a certain margin of error, otherwise we'd be throwing errors left and right if tolerances were that tight.

Anyway, by putting a 25 ohm resistor in parallel with the LEDs, you're effectively drawing more current from the control module, "fooling" it into thinking there's a real bulb connected. Through that 25ohm resistor you'll have about 560mA flowing through. THAT plus the current the LEDs themselves pull (63mA) and you have about 623mA. That's pretty close to 1000mA which is what the module expects so it doesn't shut off your current supply and throw an error on your dash. Now, say you replace it with my 100Ohm resistor. That's only 140mA + 63mA = 203mA. Stiiiiiiil not enough to convince the module something's wrong. So I'd say whoever engineered the module said... anything between (150mA and...whatever) is good enough and there's a bulb present. Anything below means the bulb is out. SO that's why the LEDs by themselves don't stay on.

Yesterday, I played with different resistor values to see what that bottom threshold is. It seems to be around 200mA and that's why I picked a 100ohm resistor. A 135ohm resistor for example didn't work well and caused the lights to go out. 

I'll run the 100's for a while and if I need to go lower, I certainly can.. at the cost of more heat. So you're welcome to run the 25, but of course, the heat output will be much higher...


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

I guess to summarize and reference the link you sent.... yes.. the easiest way to choose a resistor is to choose one that will most closely mimic the current draw of the bulb you're replacing. However, if you remember, those bulbs get mighty hot ! So will the resistor....

What I've done is adjust the value of the resistor to find the point where the control module in the car gives up and turns off the energy flow, in order for me to able to run a resistor that will give off less heat. And 100 ohm is what worked best on my car


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

NRGCC said:


> I guess to summarize and reference the link you sent.... yes.. the easiest way to choose a resistor is to choose one that will most closely mimic the current draw of the bulb you're replacing. However, if you remember, those bulbs get mighty hot ! So will the resistor....
> 
> What I've done is adjust the value of the resistor to find the point where the control module in the car gives up and turns off the energy flow, in order for me to able to run a resistor that will give off less heat. And 100 ohm is what worked best on my car


I certainly believe your acknowledge, and looking forward to reduce the heat. But the thing I did there was just pointing out something that I noticed.


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

jiangleo said:


> I certainly believe your acknowledge, and looking forward to reduce the heat. But the thing I did there was just pointing out something that I noticed.


This is all great info for us electrically challenged people.

Im very interested in lowering the heat of the resistors...


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

I'd say if we get aluminum encased resistors and extend the wires enough to mount them to the chassis with screws, I think we'd be just fine. I ordered a couple 100ohm 25watt aluminum resistors from hong kong for 5 bucks. For now, I'll run the ceramic ones you see in the pictures. I like the "flameproof" claim. Heh


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Pictures and videos of the beam pattern and cutoff taken tonite... Yes I know my high beam bulbs are obviously misaligned.. lol


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)




----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

Great! Thanks for the photos and videos. I do see the shadows in the light patterns. They are from the HID's bulb electrodes. It's the nature of the HID capsule. If the car's projector lens assembly had been designed with discharge lamp capsules (HID) in mind, there'd be compensation for that shadow of the electrode. But since they're designed for halogen bulb, not hid bulb, we're stuck with less-that-100%-perfect light projection.

So the proper placement of the electrode would be to the bottom. Since the lens in the projector housing reverses the image, the shadow would then be up in the air and not seen. Some folks use a dremmel tool to cut another notch in the proper position.











Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

jiangleo said:


> I am not very good at the electrical things, but just want to mention that so far as my research, under 12V supply voltage, almost all the resistors which are used for canceling error message or flicking are either 25ohm 25w or 6ohm 50w.
> 25w for LED DRL and parking lights, and 50w for the turn signal and tail lights.
> 
> I don't know the reason, but I believe there must be a very good reason or reasons to let all the retailers sell the same type(s) resistors for this propose.
> ...


Gotta remember the system should be able to detect bulb out, and if it relies on the dim (if set 1% it must be able to detect power consumption is my initial guess and at 1% that's very difficult.)


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

m4f1050 said:


> Gotta remember the system should be able to detect bulb out, and if it relies on the dim (if set 1% it must be able to detect power consumption is my initial guess and at 1% that's very difficult.)


But why would you set it to 1% ? You set the back parking lights to 1 not the front ones...


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> Pictures and videos of the beam pattern and cutoff taken tonite... Yes I know my high beam bulbs are obviously misaligned.. lol


What software you running here? I use Spedometer sometimes and use the HUD feature non-mirror'ed on my screen. I have 2 7" headrests I can feed AV or a "reverse" camera which I feed what my video interface sends and just have to turn on a switch. (A bit annoying but I get to pick what video to show individually on the headrests,) it even has it's own speakers so I can put the boy to sleep while driving if I need to. This I use the BluRay I have. I feed it to all 3 monitors (both AV)


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

That's just Torque running on my Nexus 7 Android tablet. The red looks washed out in the pics, but it matches perfectly with the rest of the dash lights in real life.


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

Damn, the light looks so dark and uneven in the video :facepalm: 

here is a proper HID system setup should looks like:


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

jiangleo said:


> Damn, the light looks so dark and uneven in the video :facepalm:
> 
> here is a proper HID system setup should looks like:



I know.. the best quality I guess  Maybe I just need a 55 watt bulb in there to overcome the shadows and unevenesss...


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> That's just Torque running on my Nexus 7 Android tablet. The red looks washed out in the pics, but it matches perfectly with the rest of the dash lights in real life.


Yeah, I've got Torque too on mine. I can actually wire another TV and feed the navigation to it via AV and get Torque running while I run my stock radio...not a bad idea, but that would cover the air vents, gotta be a temp thing. I can prob. set that conection and use it when I have the 7" LCD on the stand, and hide the cables when I'm done using it... hehe


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> But why would you set it to 1% ? You set the back parking lights to 1 not the front ones...


I put a resistor and keep it very cold at 1% dim (front parking) and use my own 12v source for the DRL's on the headlight, because I have 3 that feed off of this relay from a Fog Light assembly kit.

Android box (GPS unit) booting









Android box (GPS unit) on launcher









DRL switch









30ohm 10watt resistor to trick system it has a bulb and running at 1% dim. Works like a dream, doesn't even get hot. First attempt without lowering to 1% it was getting hot and I taped some heatsinks I bought that come self-adjesive but removed them and threw them in my junk pile LOL. 1% dim did the trick and with that resistor my P CEL doesn't go off at all.









Triple DRL's









I'm taking a picture of my own CC after I put the rims on and putting it as my boot screen on the GPS box (android)


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Ah I see. That's definitely the better way to do it, if you have wiring in place for other lights as well. I will probably go that route too once I get foglights, which I intend to keep on all the time to use as .. driving lights.


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> Ah I see. That's definitely the better way to do it, if you have wiring in place for other lights as well. I will probably go that route too once I get foglights, which I intend to keep on all the time to use as .. driving lights.


That's the H11 HID's I ordered. For the Fog lights. The H7's are the projectors.


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

m4f1050 said:


> I put a resistor and keep it very cold at 1% dim (front parking) and use my own 12v source for the DRL's on the headlight, because I have 3 that feed off of this relay from a Fog Light assembly kit.
> 
> Android box (GPS unit) booting
> 
> ...


Any wiring photos for the 12v source power to the headlight DRL?


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

What do you want to see.. a wire going to the battery positive terminal ? LOL


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

jiangleo said:


> Any wiring photos for the 12v source power to the headlight DRL?


It's a relay I get +12v from the lower 20amp fuse on fuse box. (I think it's the wiper pump?)

From there I feed to all 3 DRL's, including the cut cable on the headlight plug.


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## peterek (Nov 7, 2011)

m4f1050 said:


> I put a resistor and keep it very cold at 1% dim (front parking) and use my own 12v source for the DRL's on the headlight, because I have 3 that feed off of this relay from a Fog Light assembly kit.
> 
> Android box (GPS unit) booting
> 
> ...


Sorry for jacking the thread how do you like android box? I have a ans810 and iphone 5 hooked up to it and i know that audiosources next radio will be andtoid based


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## bacardicj151 (Dec 9, 2007)

m4f1050 said:


> I put a resistor and keep it very cold at 1% dim (front parking) and use my own 12v source for the DRL's on the headlight, because I have 3 that feed off of this relay from a Fog Light assembly kit.
> 
> Android box (GPS unit) booting
> 
> ...



What's going on with your radio here? Please explain


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

I mean the wire you connected to the headlight LED DRL end. Did you insert the wire into the headlight housing?


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

He said he cut the harness...


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> He said he cut the harness...


Correct, I cut the harness. I wasn't trying to connect in parallel, I was opening the circuit and closing it with a 30.1 ohm, 10 watt resistor, and set the intensity to 1% with VCDS. The other end is where it feeds the parking light (now DRL's) and it's wired in parallel to a +12V source with another 2 DRL systems in my car.


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

m4f1050 said:


> Correct, I cut the harness. I wasn't trying to connect in parallel, I was opening the circuit and closing it with a 30.1 ohm, 10 watt resistor, and set the intensity to 1% with VCDS. The other end is where it feeds the parking light (now DRL's) and it's wired in parallel to a +12V source with another 2 DRL systems in my car.


Thanks! The LEDs look very cheap anyway, perhaps I'd just dim them to 1%. 


Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Well I stayed up tonite and tore the headlights off again. The bulb were inserted upside down, with the filament UP. No wonder there were shadows and they werent all that bright. Well now, they're A LOT brighter and all the weird shadows are gone. Very happy camper here  I took videos.. will post tomorrow morning.


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

jiangleo said:


> I mean the wire you connected to the headlight LED DRL end. Did you insert the wire into the headlight housing?


The wire harness I cut. 1 end goes to the plug to the regular parking light (where LED's are wired) with +12v along to the other DRLs, and the other one I used the 30.1 ohm 10 watt resistor to ground.


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

bacardicj151 said:


> What's going on with your radio here? Please explain


A video interface, an android navigation box, the reverse emblem camera and a bluray player.


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

peterek said:


> Sorry for jacking the thread how do you like android box? I have a ans810 and iphone 5 hooked up to it and i know that audiosources next radio will be andtoid based


It's "alright" it's Android 2.3.7 but I got Navigon latest version to work so I don't mind... Also they are still developing for Gingerbread (Netflix, etc etc) but not sure if they will have an upgrade to ICS or JB...

EDIT: I just realized I didn't post an actual picture of Navigation (Navigon) LOL! CLICK TO ENLARGE!



And the bluray (under the glove box)


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

New youtube video after the bulbs were installed correctly, taken last nite. I'm much happier with the performance of the headlights as a whole now. Does anyone thing they're aimed too high ? Do I need to work on the aiming a bit ?


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

NRGCC said:


> New youtube video after the bulbs were installed correctly, taken last nite. I'm much happier with the performance of the headlights as a whole now. Does anyone thing they're aimed too high ? Do I need to work on the aiming a bit ?


oh, yes! Much much much better now.


Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


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## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> New youtube video after the bulbs were installed correctly, taken last nite. I'm much happier with the performance of the headlights as a whole now. Does anyone thing they're aimed too high ? Do I need to work on the aiming a bit ?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

They were installed with the big electrode facing up. It needs to installed with it facing downward... Simple as that.


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

I got my HID's in today, after installing I decide to read the papers...haha ...35watts (GRRR ..not so haha now..) but after installing I am not going through the hazzle of uninstalling and sending back.. They are brighrter than the stock H7 55watts and I don't risk anything!









EDIT: Forgot a pic... Derp...


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## volkscedes (Jun 7, 2013)

m4f1050 said:


> I got my HID's in today, after installing I decide to read the papers...haha ...35watts (GRRR ..not so haha now..) but after installing I am not going through the hazzle of uninstalling and sending back.. They are brighrter than the stock H7 55watts and I don't risk anything!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


what dont you want to go over on the bulb so you dont risk anything?


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Here's an interesting question.. Since these headlights have the adjustment motors in them, can we get autoleveling to work with a module.. harness..vcds mods ? Or maybe just manual adjustment from the dashboard ? Any thoughts ?


----------



## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

m4f1050 said:


> I got my HID's in today, after installing I decide to read the papers...haha ...35watts (GRRR ..not so haha now..) but after installing I am not going through the hazzle of uninstalling and sending back.. They are brighrter than the stock H7 55watts and I don't risk anything!
> 
> 
> 
> what kelvin temp are those?


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## b6driver (Jun 1, 2006)

volkscedes said:


> what dont you want to go over on the bulb so you dont risk anything?



I'm sure he means going over 35W HID bulbs. I've personally seen some housings melt with 55W HID (my old A4's fogs for one)


----------



## b6driver (Jun 1, 2006)

kaeo773 said:


> m4f1050 said:
> 
> 
> > I got my HID's in today, after installing I decide to read the papers...haha ...35watts (GRRR ..not so haha now..) but after installing I am not going through the hazzle of uninstalling and sending back.. They are brighrter than the stock H7 55watts and I don't risk anything!
> ...


----------



## b6driver (Jun 1, 2006)

NRGCC said:


> Here's an interesting question.. Since these headlights have the adjustment motors in them, can we get autoleveling to work with a module.. harness..vcds mods ? Or maybe just manual adjustment from the dashboard ? Any thoughts ?


They have adjustment motors? I just received mine on Saturday and didn't really bother inspecting. I'll check them out when I get home


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Dectane's website says so and I've noticed them in the housing myself. How to make use of them with our car.. I dont know...lol


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## volkscedes (Jun 7, 2013)

as beautiful as these headlights are, they sound like a real pita to get to work. i hope someone comes out with a plug and play LED headlight for us.


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Trust me.. it's more of a PITA to physically install them, then to wire up two little resistors to them to get the LEDs to stay on. I wish everything was that easy. We already did all the research.


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## volkscedes (Jun 7, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> Trust me.. it's more of a PITA to physically install them, then to wire up two little resistors to them to get the LEDs to stay on. I wish everything was that easy. We already did all the research.


I dont understand why they havent come out with headlights with LED's for our car that are plug play and stress free yet?


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Because they were designed for the european market, where they get wired up differently.


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## volkscedes (Jun 7, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> Because they were designed for the european market, where they get wired up differently.


Awww, too-shayyyy


----------



## tellonr (Jan 8, 2013)

I was gonna stop with modding after wheels.. but now.. I need to get those headlights after wheels..  :thumbup:


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

volkscedes said:


> what dont you want to go over on the bulb so you dont risk anything?


wattage. Im running 35watts vs 55watts (stock)


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> Dectane's website says so and I've noticed them in the housing myself. How to make use of them with our car.. I dont know...lol


I'm thinking those extra connections we (US) cars don't use.


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## volkscedes (Jun 7, 2013)

m4f1050 said:


> wattage. Im running 35watts vs 55watts (stock)


gotcha, so you DONT WANT to go over 55watts to be safe?


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## peterek (Nov 7, 2011)

They are plug and play but for europe not for US. They dont have those damn ugly amber sidemarkers


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

volkscedes said:


> gotcha, so you DONT WANT to go over 55watts to be safe?


Right, I don't even want to go over 35 watts I have on now, they work perfect (brighter) and less heat.


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## DarthBajan (Oct 22, 2008)

I'd love to see more pictures of the black ones installed before I make a decision.


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

munnarg said:


> I'd love to see more pictures of the black ones installed before I make a decision.


The ones I put up and what others have posted, arent enough?

What are you looking for?


----------



## Stero1D (Aug 8, 2012)

munnarg said:


> I'd love to see more pictures of the black ones installed before I make a decision.





Turb02 said:


> The ones I put up and what others have posted, arent enough?
> 
> What are you looking for?


Corey, what else u want? MAKE UP UR MIND ))) 

n get wheels frst!


----------



## DarthBajan (Oct 22, 2008)

Stero1D said:


> Corey, what else u want? MAKE UP UR MIND )))
> 
> n get wheels frst!


Lol, yeah I have big eyes lately. However I've decided to go in another direction. Wheels are coming Serge, not to worry. Narrowing down my tire choices. The places local to me all suck pretty much so that makes things a little harder.


----------



## Stero1D (Aug 8, 2012)

munnarg said:


> Lol, yeah I have big eyes lately. However I've decided to go in another direction. Wheels are coming Serge, not to worry. Narrowing down my tire choices. The places local to me all suck pretty much so that makes things a little harder.


OMG!!! Finally! I hope RS reps!


----------



## b6driver (Jun 1, 2006)

munnarg said:


> I'd love to see more pictures of the black ones installed before I make a decision.


this weekend I'll snap some as soon as I get my black lights installed on my candy white


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

More pics...

Driver's side



Passenger's side



Front


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

More pics...


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

I like this one a lot.. Hehe


----------



## parts4euro.com (Mar 25, 2003)

*S5 Style LED E-code Projector Headlights for Passat CC Vwvortex Group Buy
*
Hi everyone, sorry for the delays. We wanted to wait until we got our shipment of the Smoked versions of these headlights to begin the Group Buy.
We need at least 10 serious buyers and price will be $400 Shipped within lower 48 US States, we will also include the resistors for free. For international orders, shipping cost will be applied according to the destination. You can order Chrome or Smoked, but we are very low on chrome only a few sets left.
The Groupbuy will go through as soon as we receive payment from 10 or more buyers. If we don't hit the 10 people mark before July 31st we will refund the payment to those who ordered.

Please use links below to place order.

*S5 Style LED E-code Smoked Projector Headlights for Passat CC Vwvortex Group Buy*













*S5 Style LED E-code Chrome Projector Headlights for Passat CC Vwvortex Group Buy*


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

More beauty shots...


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

*3D Pictures (.mpo)*

Here are some pics of my car in 3D...

http://xtreme-toyz.net/vw_cc/driverside1.mpo

http://xtreme-toyz.net/vw_cc/driverside2.mpo

http://xtreme-toyz.net/vw_cc/passengerside1.mpo

http://xtreme-toyz.net/vw_cc/passengerheadlight1.mpo


NOTE: Right click, save as, then use this program to view them (if you have a 3D TV or Monitor)
http://www.3dtv.at/products/player/Index_en.aspx


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

How are we supposed to open "MPO" files though ?


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> How are we supposed to open "MPO" files though ?


Bino (great software)


----------



## MrRline (Apr 6, 2010)

Nice broken links sir


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

MrRline said:


> Nice broken links sir


Trying to fix IIS 6 to allow serve .mpo files on my server (while I work at my regular job... ) fun..

NOTE: Fixed, you have to download the file, right click, save as, then use Bino or any program to view 3D images. I have 3D TV I use Bino on and I can see it 3D.


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

More cutoff pics..


----------



## HunterRose (Feb 16, 1999)

Really hoping one of the vendors is selling these this weekend at Waterfest...


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

No comments..


----------



## BraveDemon (May 23, 2013)

Does anyone running the Dectanes with the VAG coding have rear red LED turn signals?

I know in the pics posted by Turb02, the rear turn signals are dimmed to 1%, wondering what effect it will have if I plan to swap out the rear amber turn signals to red LED


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

BraveDemon said:


> Does anyone running the Dectanes with the VAG coding have rear red LED turn signals?
> 
> I know in the pics posted by Turb02, the rear turn signals are dimmed to 1%, wondering what effect it will have if I plan to swap out the rear amber turn signals to red LED


Pretty sure it has nothing to do with the color of the LEDs. I have orange LED's installed myself..


----------



## BraveDemon (May 23, 2013)

Is it still dimmed to 1%? 

Just curious what it'd look like since I plan to swap to red led's - I just don't want it to look like I'm applying the brakes 24/7. 

Mind posting pics? Would be much appreciated. :heart:


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Mine arent dimmed, because they never come on. Turb02's car is just a freak like that. There's pics posted in my other threads where we discuss LEDs. Just search my post history.


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

It may be year dependant...I'm a 2010, running the Scandinavian drl setting...mine stay dimmed on the rear.

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


----------



## b6driver (Jun 1, 2006)

Candy white with black lights


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

I am removing the old headlights, need help to disconnect the power harness! Thanks!



Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

ok, here is something. 
In VCDs, I changed the front parking light in byte 11, 09 central elect., to value 10, which means 16% brightness and power. 5w•16%=0.8w (LED strips' power). 

No error message, no resistor needed

Note: change the value to 00 to reset the setting first, then change it to 10. 
If you already have an error message, clean the error code first.




Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

Also for the HID kit. I did not install the can-bus harness( it is also a resistor to eat the extra 20 watt I believe). The only thing I did was enabling the xenon in byte 00 in central elect. module. No flicking, no error message. 

I installed the Morimoto HID kit, I think it is also effected to the USPmoto's. I mounted the HID ballasts on the headlights and hid the wires under the headlights. My engine bay is super clean, not even a single extra wire can be found. 

And running without these resistors, the car's consumption can get a litter better in theory.  We saved about 50 watt ((20+4.2)x2 =48.4w) 




Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

jiangleo said:


> ok, here is something.
> In VCDs, I changed the front parking light in byte 11, 09 central elect., to value 10, which means 16% brightness and power. 5w•16%=0.8w (LED strips' power).
> 
> No error message, no resistor needed
> ...


Are they still bright? I'm assuming that the light output didn't change, did it?

I'm mobile...screw the grammar and spelling!


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

I did not notice any brightness difference.


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Turb02 said:


> Are they still bright? I'm assuming that the light output didn't change, did it?
> 
> I'm mobile...screw the grammar and spelling!


Theoretically the LED's have their own constant current regulator inside the housing so giving them less juice shouldn't faze them..


----------



## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

NRGCC said:


> No comments..


This looks very nice. looks more like an Audi, imo. (obv minus the gigantic VW symbol)


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

by the way. don't forget to disable the front parking cold diagnosis in byte 19 too. I noticed the error message may still came out some time if you didn't disable the cold diagnosis.


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

jiangleo said:


> by the way. don't forget to disable the front parking cold diagnosis in byte 19 too. I noticed the error message may still came out some time if you didn't disable the cold diagnosis.


Ahhh..... I'll keep my resistors in then. Hehe


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

NRGCC said:


> Ahhh..... I'll keep my resistors in then. Hehe


Yep, your choice. I feel glad I don't need to put the resistors in, and save a little energy as the LEDs suppose be


Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

jiangleo said:


> Yep, your choice. I feel glad that I don't need to put the resistors in, and save a little energy as the LEDs suppose be
> 
> 
> Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2





Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Well maybe resistors AND the dimming. That should out just fine dont ya think ?


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

I think we do not need the resistors at all. Because the power matches exactly(0.8w). The reason we need to disable the code diagnosis is the ECU needs a 3w power check for the bulbs ,no matter what brightness setting is. 


Sent from my CC using Tapatalk 2


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

In my case I had to put a resistor since I am using another +12v source for my LED's

I set it to 1% and the resistor is a perfect match for a light bulb so it doesn't even get hot now at 1% and no light and no cold check had to be done.


----------



## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

Here is mine, I do like the black but I still wish it had a chrome projector bezel.

Tomorrow getting the front lip installed, and new painted & filled grill


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

kaeo773 said:


> Here is mine, I do like the black but I still wish it had a chrome projector bezel.
> 
> Tomorrow getting the front lip installed, and new painted & filled grill


Beautiful!!! Congrats! BTW, the lights in black without the chrome IMHO looks better.


----------



## phareastcoastb4 (Nov 28, 2010)

kaeo773 said:


> Here is mine, I do like the black but I still wish it had a chrome projector bezel.
> 
> Tomorrow getting the front lip installed, and new painted & filled grill


The car looks great ..:thumbup: When are we going to do another CC Chicagoland GTG I miss the last one . We should plan a BBQ at Busse Woods before its gets cold again and I will be putting my car away for the winter .. PM Peter , Ivan and Serge and lets make this Chicagoland GTG happen . There won't be a CVO Treffen this year so we should do a big BBQ GTG at Busse woods I even help out with the planning . PM me and LMk if you want to make this happen ..


----------



## Stero1D (Aug 8, 2012)

kaeo773 said:


> Here is mine, I do like the black but I still wish it had a chrome projector bezel.
> 
> Tomorrow getting the front lip installed, and new painted & filled grill


Whr are you getting ur lip installed, man? i need to redo mine!


----------



## GreenWagen (Mar 4, 2008)

Does anyone with a Urano grey have these lights? I can't find any pictures and I'm having a tough time choosing between smoked or chrome on the grey. 

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Guest2320 (Aug 2, 2012)

This ought to help you.


----------



## GreenWagen (Mar 4, 2008)

Thanks! I'm leaving towards chrome at the moment but would like to see something closer to oem. 

I'm afraid if I do smoked that I will have to follow through with that theme to look right (trim, turns, grill, etc.).

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Last night one of my projectors high beam solenoids got stuck on.... It fixed itself down the road a few minutes later and hasn't happened since. But... Hmm..


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

Thats odd. Any wiring issues that may have caused this?


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Its all factory for high beams....


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

Roger that. How did it receive the "signal" to illuminate?


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

I don't know to be honest. Maybe the car turned it on briefly as part of the "cold" diagnosis and it got stuck on. Who knows...


----------



## BraveDemon (May 23, 2013)

Getting my chrome Dectanes installed tomorrow and coded.

Going to ask the guys to code it so a resistor is not needed - confirming with you guys since I need to print out the coding and take it to them.



> In the 09-Cent. Elect module,
> 
> 1. byte 00 change to E9 (active Scandinavia DRL); just check the Scandinavia DRL in bit 3, and keep other settings as you have.
> 2. byte 11 change to 10 (set the front parking lights to 16%)
> ...


Mine's a 2010 (like Turb02) so I'm expecting the rear parking light to come on. Also, are there any other Island Grey's with these lights or am I the first?


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> Last night one of my projectors high beam solenoids got stuck on.... It fixed itself down the road a few minutes later and hasn't happened since. But... Hmm..


That happened to me a few times now. I just click high beams until it fixes itself....but yeah, I have had same issue.


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Hmm.. well that's not good to hear. Sigh. That means the quality leaves something to be desired. I supposed we can always change out the projectors down the road if it gets to be too bad...


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> Hmm.. well that's not good to hear. Sigh. That means the quality leaves something to be desired. I supposed we can always change out the projectors down the road if it gets to be too bad...


If that's the case, we can disconnect the projectors mechanism that cover top half and switch the other high beam bulb to HID like the projectors....  I've been dumping too much $$$ on this car.. but it's such a nice car, I rather lend my wife than lend my car LOL!


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

m4f1050 said:


> That happened to me a few times now. I just click high beams until it fixes itself....but yeah, I have had same issue.


Hi Guys, I just noticed my headlights do nothing after I enabled the high-beam. The high-beam bulbs didn't light up in both sides, but no bulb out error. In fact I never tried the high-beam after the installation until I saw your posts. 

So your projector cut off shield will open after enabling the high-beam? I am confusing.


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

jiangleo said:


> Hi Guys, I just noticed my headlights do nothing after I enabled the high-beam. The high-beam bulbs didn't light up in both sides, but no bulb out error. In fact I never tried the high-beam after the installation until I saw your posts.
> 
> So your projector cut off shield will open after enabling the high-beam? I am confusing.


Seems like it, I see the other half of the projectors light up (the upper half) when I switch to high beams.


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

m4f1050 said:


> Seems like it, I see the other half of the projectors light up (the upper half) when I switch to high beams.


How about the high beam bulbs? do they light up too?


----------



## BraveDemon (May 23, 2013)

Well, I got my chrome dectanes installed and coded per Jiangleo's "resistor-less" settings.

Definitely need to re-align the projectors when I get home tonight.

I noticed something funky: when I drove away from the shop that installed the headlights, both headlight LED's were on. I drove about 30 minutes to my work and I stepped out with my engine still running to check on the LED's and the passenger side LED's were out. 

I turned off the car and turned it on again and surely enough, both headlight LED's came back on. :screwy:

Thinking something might be loose.. or worst case scenario, my passenger side might be DOA... :facepalm:


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

BraveDemon said:


> Well, I got my chrome dectanes installed and coded per Jiangleo's "resistor-less" settings.
> 
> Definitely need to re-align the projectors when I get home tonight.
> 
> ...


Hmm... the leds in my headlights are running without any issue, however, it seams my high-beams are not working at all...


----------



## BraveDemon (May 23, 2013)

^ Yeah I need to check to see if my high beams turn on as well.


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

BraveDemon said:


> ^ Yeah I need to check to see if my high beams turn on as well.


 I think it is because I enabled "the xenon headlights without shutter installed" via VCDs.


----------



## BraveDemon (May 23, 2013)

^ Yeah my highbeams work Jiangleo. Took the CC for a quick spin and came back, both LED DRL's were on. So here's to hoping that there's nothing wrong with my passenger side one.

Also, mines a 2010 but my rear parking light (the amber bulb) isn't lit up like Turb02's.


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

BraveDemon said:


> ^ Yeah my highbeams work Jiangleo. Took the CC for a quick spin and came back, both LED DRL's were on. So here's to hoping that there's nothing wrong with my passenger side one.
> 
> Also, mines a 2010 but my rear parking light (the amber bulb) isn't lit up like Turb02's.


That's good. I didn't set the Scandinavia mode since I already have the LED turn DRL installed, but as the Scandinavia mode stated, it should light up both front and rear parking lights.


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

Hey J, are you running the resistors, or did you keep the front lighting at 16% power?


----------



## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

no, I didn't put the resistors in. just set the power to 16% (10 in hex)


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

jiangleo said:


> How about the high beam bulbs? do they light up too?


Yes, they light up. You get the top projector + high beam bulb.


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Day pic


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> Day pic


Wonder how they have some black headlights like these but with the chrome ring around the projector....changing the projector out? (my assumption)


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

I'm sure it's possible. Just have to take them apart and replace the projectors..


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> I'm sure it's possible. Just have to take them apart and replace the projectors..


The real question would be... is it worth it? Is it true or is it a rumor that you have to like bake the headlight at a certain degree? (to melt the glue and separate the cover but gotta be careful not to bend it)


----------



## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

m4f1050 said:


> The real question would be... is it worth it? Is it true or is it a rumor that you have to like bake the headlight at a certain degree? (to melt the glue and separate the cover but gotta be careful not to bend it)


Not sure. It's been mentioned that the projector in the housing may fit out the rear of the housing. If someone can verify that, you could possibly remove and reinstall the new projector without baking it...

Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

Turb02 said:


> Not sure. It's been mentioned that the projector in the housing may fit out the rear of the housing. If someone can verify that, you could possibly remove and reinstall the new projector without baking it...
> 
> Sent from my Note 2, disregard any grammatical errors.


The way I see it is PROBABLY. They both have the same rear lid (quite big, I fit my HID kit inside the headlight with ballast and all.) I would say so, but how to reach (if any) the bolts that hold it together..? A schematic of the headlight would be awesome right about now... LOL Even a stock one (same back cover size)


----------



## BraveDemon (May 23, 2013)

m4f1050 said:


> The way I see it is PROBABLY. They both have the same rear lid (quite big, I fit my HID kit inside the headlight with ballast and all.) I would say so, but how to reach (if any) the bolts that hold it together..? A schematic of the headlight would be awesome right about now... LOL Even a stock one (same back cover size)


Which HID kit did you use? I didn't think a ballast would fit through the openings...

I noticed that my Dectanes are not flush with the hood. I can fit fingers between the top of the headlight and the hood when its fully closed - is that how the OEM headlights were as well? I cant seem to remember.


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

BraveDemon said:


> Which HID kit did you use? I didn't think a ballast would fit through the openings...
> 
> I noticed that my Dectanes are not flush with the hood. I can fit fingers between the top of the headlight and the hood when its fully closed - is that how the OEM headlights were as well? I cant seem to remember.


1. I got them from eBay. But I was shopping for 55watts somehow I picked these 35watts ones, but I'm happy I did, less wattage and slim ballast *AND* USA seller for $39.99 (Chinese ripped me off $158 on eBay, asked me to ship back via airmail and when I opened a case because they wouldn't return money, airmail is not traceable PayPal didn't return my money and they kept the lights. -- always pick US only you won' t have this problem) Your bulbs are H7 for headlight and H11 for fog lights.


```
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330935177160
```
2. These have the same 3 positioning adjustments for height and indentation, then for left and right, you turn these adjusters and set it as close as possible to the center before you tighten the screws, they have about half inch to play with. After that you center your projectors to match pictures you see cut off with 2 adjuster screws on the back of the headlight you can see pictures of these on previous posts.


----------



## BraveDemon (May 23, 2013)

^ THanks m4f1050. I was able to adjust it and it sits better.

I have a different problem though with the Dectanes. 

The passenger side keeps shutting off after about 3-4 minutes. I wasn't getting the bulb out error yesterday, but today while I was adjusting the headlights, I realized that the guy who installed my lights also installed resistors - even though I gave him resistor-less coding provided by Jiangleo.

Weird thing is, the ground ends of the resistors are screwed on to bolts on the frame of the engine bay....

Thinking that would be the problem, I removed the resistors and I still have the same problem. Both headlight LED's light up on start up, but after about 3-4 minutes the passenger side goes out, and now I get the bulb out error.

I remember a few pages back NRGCC said that his right side LED's kept shutting off with 125 ohm resistors, and that a 100 ohm resistor fixed his problem, so I might have to try that out.

Thinking I may just set the front parking light back to 100% and run resistors to see if that makes a difference. 

If all else fails then I may try a Euro switch (disable Scandanavia DRL) and just run with the parking lights on.


----------



## parts4euro.com (Mar 25, 2003)

*S5 Style LED E-code Projector Headlights for Passat CC Vwvortex Group Buy
*
Hi everyone, since there was quite a demand for a Group Buy for these headlights so we thought we would give it a shot.
We need at least 10 serious buyers and price will be $400 Shipped within lower 48 US States, we will also include the resistors for free. For international orders, shipping cost will be applied according to the destination. You can order Chrome or Smoked, but we are very low on chrome only a few sets left.
The Groupbuy will go through as soon as we receive payment from 10 or more buyers. If we don't hit the 10 people mark before Aug 15th we will refund the payment to those who ordered.

Please use links below to place order.

*S5 Style LED E-code Smoked Projector Headlights for Passat CC Vwvortex Group Buy*













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----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

BraveDemon said:


> ^ THanks m4f1050. I was able to adjust it and it sits better.
> 
> I have a different problem though with the Dectanes.
> 
> ...


Glad u got it sorted out 

I run the euro switch because I can turn on my fog lights and not my lights with it and I can turn off my regular DRL's.


----------



## BraveDemon (May 23, 2013)

^ Thanks for the help mate. Yeah the Euro switch is on my list of to-do's (which is quite long since the CC is "new to me") 

But for some reason 16% to the front Parking lights isn't enough to keep my passenger side LED's on for more than 4-5 minutes... I'm thinking that if there's a dip in the voltage that the led strip just powers off? No clue. 

But with the fail safe setup (with resistors) that Jiangleo and Turb02 originally posted, everything works.

On a side note: I swung by Eurocode Tuning (about 5 miles away from my office) during lunch and was prepared to pay them for their time sorting out the coding on my car, but they took the time to fiddle with my coding and comped the work. Definitely going back to them for the APR flash when my CC and my wife's Tiguan are off warranty.


----------



## kaeo773 (Mar 16, 2013)

I had byte 11 change to 10 (set the front parking lights to 16%) and it did not work on my 2012.


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Guys.. Just install 100ohm resistors in parallel with the LED's and be done with it. I haven't had any problems with LED's since I installed the headlights...


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

Same here, no problems at all. But my route was different, I went switched with a +12V source from fusebox. I can turn on/off mine, parking controls rear only.


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

That's even better!


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> That's even better!


I guess it depends on the user what they want. I mimic the light bulb with a 10watt 31ohm resistor and turned it down to 1%. Resistor acts as the bulb, but at 1% it does not get hot and passes all the tests (bulb out and cold start is the other one?) What I want to do is find a 3 switch base or move my switches more out of sight. Will post pics after I finish that project out of my many projects..


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Yeah I gotta mess with VCDS too and get it to dim a bit. Too bad my VCDS cable broke.... sigh. Time to order a replacement.


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

I bought the original one used and ross-tech didn't want to give me support since I wasn't orig. owner haha... But I figured it out by clicking on every bit until I found it. Also, on aliexpress you can buy one for less than $30! haha I bought one as a spare.


```
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2012-Hot-sale-VAG-11-3-VAG-COM-11-11-VAGCOM-11-11-3-VCDS-HEX/647914978.html
```


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

I got the clone from Aliexpress. But used it with the official VCDS software and I think it somehow messed it up, since now it doesnt work anymore. Anyway, ordered another one from Aliexpress. Much cheaper than $250 just to use it a couple times a year...


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> I got the clone from Aliexpress. But used it with the official VCDS software and I think it somehow messed it up, since now it doesnt work anymore. Anyway, ordered another one from Aliexpress. Much cheaper than $250 just to use it a couple times a year...


TRUE. You can buy 10


----------



## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Had to replace one of the 250 ohm resistors today with my 150 ohm. The left LEDs gave me a "left parking lamp not working" message on the MFD one morning. Restarting the car fixed it, but now it's obvious 150 ohms is the magic number for me  

Been running with a 150 on the right and a 250 on the left... because I was too lazy to change it. But now that they're both 150, no more errors  

However, the high beam plate in the projectors gets stuck a lot more often now  I'm really disappointed with the quality. For around $300 it's alright, but paying more than that for these headlights would be crazy.


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> Had to replace one of the 250 ohm resistors today with my 150 ohm. The left LEDs gave me a "left parking lamp not working" message on the MFD one morning. Restarting the car fixed it, but now it's obvious 150 ohms is the magic number for me
> 
> Been running with a 150 on the right and a 250 on the left... because I was too lazy to change it. But now that they're both 150, no more errors
> 
> However, the high beam plate in the projectors gets stuck a lot more often now  I'm really disappointed with the quality. For around $300 it's alright, but paying more than that for these headlights would be crazy.


 Yeah, agreed! A headlight (stock) would run you what both of these cost, or even more!  Wonder if you can access the cable that actuates the beam plate and disconnect it since you already have a high beam you can put another HID kit and forget about it


----------



## ciki (May 6, 2012)

Woot. I just got these headlights in today. And I have to read this whole thread again because I'm soooo confused. :what:

Can someone tell me how to clear a bulb out error in vcds because i got one from installing hids in my current setup but didn't see how to clear it here. I know someone mentioned that we have to clear the code before making any changes.

Note 2


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

ciki said:


> Woot. I just got these headlights in today. And I have to read this whole thread again because I'm soooo confused. :what:
> 
> Can someone tell me how to clear a bulb out error in vcds because i got one from installing hids in my current setup but didn't see how to clear it here. I know someone mentioned that we have to clear the code before making any changes.
> 
> Note 2


 There seems to be 2 ways to do it. 

1. VCDS setting it to 16% (I think?) and 

2. Using a resistor (seems to be 150ohms using parking lights - if you want to just have the DRL's and not the headlights on you need the European light switch) The other resistor way is to put a 31ohm 10watt and lower your parking lights to 1% and use another +12v source (what I did) where you can turn them on/off whenever you want.


----------



## ciki (May 6, 2012)

Yes i got that much out of this thread but how do i clear the code before doing anything? Where do i go in vcds?

And am i getting the bulb out errors because i enabled xenons? I tried disabling xenons and my high beams came back on but i still had the bulb out errors.

Note 2


----------



## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

ciki said:


> Yes i got that much out of this thread but how do i clear the code before doing anything? Where do i go in vcds?
> 
> And am i getting the bulb out errors because i enabled xenons? I tried disabling xenons and my high beams came back on but i still had the bulb out errors.
> 
> Note 2


 You can do an AUTO-SCAN that will scan EVERYTHING, show you in RED all the modules that have trouble codes, and you can click on the red ones and it will take you to the modules (you have to do it one by one) where you can clear the codes.


----------



## ciki (May 6, 2012)

Aha! Ty

Note 2


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

Ok, let me write a more detail instruction here. 

First of all, you have two options to fix the parking lights bulb out error: 

*1. Set the front parking light to 16% power in VCDS.* (It works on my model: 09 sport, really not sure about other models, if it doesn't work on your model, you will need to use the second option) 

*2. Add a load resistors between ground (brown) and pin 10 in each side for the parking lights.* You can add a 25 ohm 25 w resistor, and it will be very hot. Or, you can add a 150 ohms one like NRGCC did, and he reported these resistors will generate much less heat. 

Below is the procedure of VCDS way: 
There are three main steps. First, clear the error message if it is already in your dashboard; Second, set the front parking light to 16%; Finally, disable the front parking lights cold diagnosis. 

i: Clear the error message: 

1. Open VCDS and click on “SELECT” under Select Control Module. 









2. click “09-Cent.Electr.” 









3. Click "Fault codes - 02" 









4. Click "Clear Codes - 05" 









ii Set the front parking light to 16% 

5. Back to “09-Cent.Electr.” main interface and click “Coding – 07” 









6. A box like below should pop up. *DO NOT SIMPLY COPY MY LONG CODE, BACKUP YOUR ORIGINAL LONG CODE BEFORE YOU CHANGE ANYTHING *. Click “Long Coding Helper.” 









7. In byte 11, change the value to 10, which means 16% brightness and power. 5w•16%=0.8w (LED strips' power). 









iii. Disable cold diagnosis. 
8. Go to byte 19, and uncheck the "Cold Diagnosis Front Parking Lights active" 









8. When you are done, hit “Exit.” 









9. Now, hit “Do it!” 







​ 
Note: This setting will not dim your LEDs, it just matches with the LEDs power. The error may still comes out in first couple days, you need to clean the error for 1-2 times. After that, it won't come out again. I am running my CC about a month now with this setting, I did not see the error again. 

Miscellaneous: 


Disable the low beam DRL: you can find the information by searching the forum. 

Set the LED strip as DRL: 

 
In the 09-Cent. Elect module, 


byte 00 change to E9 (active Scandinavia DRL); just check the Scandinavia DRL in bit 3, and keep other settings as you have. 

 byte 11 change to 64 (set the front parking lights to 100%) 

 byte 12 change to 01 (dim the rear parking lights to 1%) 

 byte 20 change to 00 (disable using low beams as DRL) 

 

HID: Enable the "xenon headlights without Shutter installed (BI-Xenon)" in Byte 3, instead of enabling the" xenon headlights with Shutter installed" in byte 0. Otherwise, the high beam will not work.


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## ciki (May 6, 2012)

What am i supposed to use as ground for the resistor on the Brown parking light wire?

Also in byte 11 am i making it 10 or 64?

Note 2


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

ciki said:


> What am i supposed to use as ground for the resistor on the Brown parking light wire?
> 
> Also in byte 11 am i making it 10 or 64?
> 
> Note 2


 The brown wire is the ground


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## ciki (May 6, 2012)

Yes! Sorry i got confused again. I thought the Brown wire was in pin 10 
I'm at work atm so i can't run out and check it since i didn't drive my car because there's a fload warning here in central ma.

Note 2


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

jiangleo said:


> Ok, let me write a more detail instruction here.
> 
> First of all,....


 Nice write up! This will help many (IF they search/read) :laugh:


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## ciki (May 6, 2012)

Nrgcc should put this info at the beginning of the thread or just post up what page number this is on

Note 2


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

ciki said:


> Nrgcc should put this info at the beginning of the thread or just post up what page number this is on
> 
> Note 2


 I will..


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## ciki (May 6, 2012)

Oo it works, it works! :sly:

Note 2


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## ciki (May 6, 2012)

OK i have a problem. 

I adjusted the height of the cutoff all the way down and the drivers side goes much lower then the passengers side. I know that its supposed to be higher but not that much. So my question is, before i take out the headlights, is there a way to adjust the whole projector inside? Maybe unscrew it and point it down? When i was driving by my buddy at night he said he had to turn his head away because his eyes were hurting when he looked at my headlights down the road.


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

ciki said:


> OK i have a problem.
> 
> I adjusted the height of the cutoff all the way down and the drivers side goes much lower then the passengers side. I know that its supposed to be higher but not that much. So my question is, before i take out the headlights, is there a way to adjust the whole projector inside? Maybe unscrew it and point it down? When i was driving by my buddy at night he said he had to turn his head away because his eyes were hurting when he looked at my headlights down the road.


 Wonder if it's a stuck high beam plate? We've been seeing this (at least me and NRGCC have seen this behavior) but you're saying you can see the cutoff line?


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## ciki (May 6, 2012)

Yes. Cutoff is nice and level

Note 2


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

ciki said:


> Yes. Cutoff is nice and level
> 
> Note 2


 And you said you adjusted the height with the white adjustment screws like on the picture I posted on a few pages back? 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...LED-strips&p=82376044&viewfull=1#post82376044


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## ciki (May 6, 2012)

Yes all the way down. I'll uninstall the headlights and try to move the projector itself tomorrow. I'm putting regular h7s in for tonight. 

I'm thinking maybe I pushed the projector a bit when I was putting the ballast inside of the housing. 

On a different note, do the leds work at night? Because they didn't work last night when I got out of work

Note 2


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

ciki said:


> Yes all the way down. I'll uninstall the headlights and try to move the projector itself tomorrow. I'm putting regular h7s in for tonight.
> 
> I'm thinking maybe I pushed the projector a bit when I was putting the ballast inside of the housing.
> 
> ...


 Are they turning on then they turn off or they don't turn on at all? Do you have a Parking Light warning?


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## ciki (May 6, 2012)

they are not turning on at all at night and i followed all the steps above. no bulb out warning, parking lights set to 16%, i had a bulb out warning this morning but i reset itself couple of times. ill let you know tonight when i get out of work. 

i dont think ill be able to see $hit with the regular h7s in hehe


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

ciki said:


> they are not turning on at all at night and i followed all the steps above. no bulb out warning, parking lights set to 16%, i had a bulb out warning this morning but i reset itself couple of times. ill let you know tonight when i get out of work.
> 
> i dont think ill be able to see $hit with the regular h7s in hehe


 You need someone else to tell you, you can't just turn them on and run to the front and look, they don't stay on long enough, you need someone else to check for you OR disconnect the H7's and park in front of a wall and turn the lights on and check that way.


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## ciki (May 6, 2012)

Yeah the leds go on for couple of seconds at night and then they go off and i get a parking out error.
Shutting the lights off and on doesn't turn them on but turning the car off and the turning it back on followed by immediate turning on headlights keeps the leds on

Note 2


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## ciki (May 6, 2012)

So i don't think there's anything wrong with the projectors anymore because as soon as i drove away from work i had to pull over and raise them up because the Cutoff was literally 10 feet in front of the car on the street. I couldn't see anything! I think the hids are to strong. I just bought usp ones because my other ones wouldn't kick on so i was forced to put 55s into these headlights.

Note 2


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

ciki said:


> So i don't think there's anything wrong with the projectors anymore because as soon as i drove away from work i had to pull over and raise them up because the Cutoff was literally 10 feet in front of the car on the street. I couldn't see anything! I think the hids are to strong. I just bought usp ones because my other ones wouldn't kick on so i was forced to put 55s into these headlights.
> 
> Note 2


 I would suggest going the resistor route. Avoid the parking light and the turn off of LEDs.


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## ciki (May 6, 2012)

ok so im going to pick up a resistor today 
things i have to change are: 
- 150 ohms from pin 10 to brown wire 
- parking lights 100% 
correct? 

theres still something i dont understand. the leds are wired to our parking lights right? so i can set scandanavian drls off and just put my switch to parking lights and that will turn the leds on. ive been running with my fogs on like this all the time. i dont really need the leds to go on automaticly as drls.


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

ciki said:


> ok so im going to pick up a resistor today
> things i have to change are:
> - 150 ohms from pin 10 to brown wire
> - parking lights 100%
> ...


 100 ohms.


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> 100 ohms.


 And 2 of them  One for each side.


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Yep. 100 ohms.. 25watts or higher is recommended. Look on ebay.. 100 ohm.. 50 watts.. usually like 8 bucks.


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## ciki (May 6, 2012)

I grabbed some from work. They are 100ohms but I'm not sure what wattage
I'll just hook them up to the ones that came with these headlights
Note 2


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Post a pic...


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## b6driver (Jun 1, 2006)

NRGCC said:


> Yep. 100 ohms.. 25watts or higher is recommended. Look on ebay.. 100 ohm.. 50 watts.. usually like 8 bucks.


 picked up ceramic ones at radio shack for ~$2-3. no heat problems whatsoever. The legs are a little short so I just stuck the leg onto the gray wire's pin and grounded the other to the car body 

100 Ohm @ 25W 

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12559747


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## ciki (May 6, 2012)

i set the parking lights to 50% and was driving the car with drl led on this morning and no bulb out error yet. they usually turn of after couple of minutes ill let you know if itll work at night


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## ciki (May 6, 2012)

sometimes i get a turn signal bulb out error and when i turn the turn signal on it pastes really fast for a second and then it resets itself and error goes away. capacitor gets warm enough that after holding it for 5 seconds i have to let go. i will install the other ones today


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## b6driver (Jun 1, 2006)

ciki said:


> sometimes i get a turn signal bulb out error and when i turn the turn signal on it pastes really fast for a second and then it resets itself and error goes away. capacitor gets warm enough that after holding it for 5 seconds i have to let go. i will install the other ones today


 I hope you're not using a capacitor  

The parking light trick in VCDS is to fool the ECU into sending just (from previous calculations) 17% of the power to the lights, in this case it is enough to illuminate the LEDs. 50% should not work as the ECU will be sending too much power and the resistance calculations won't add up when it does its routine checks. You are better off picking a fix: A) go all resistors or B) no resistors, but set VCDS to 17%. 

Choosing the correct resistor is key. From my experience, running a 100 OHM, 25W resistor is good enough to fool the ECU and also remain warm to the touch. Some dudes run 125 OHM, but I just found it convenient to run 100 OHM since radio shack has these in bunches. 

Right now, all I did was stick one of the legs into the light harness (gray wire) and used a small alligator clip to ground the other leg (ghetto, but it'll have to do while I find a permanent way to mount it).


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

My first connection I just ran a wire from the fuse box to the parking light cable and put a 31ohm 10watt resistor and brought down the parking lights to 1%. I now have it with a switch, I can turn them on or off because I have 3 different DRL's all switched individually. Never had any issues.


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

I was like... wtf !! lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vm593dPL5s8


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> I was like... wtf !! lol
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vm593dPL5s8




I like the top white light. The rest... not my taste..


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## mal_boy03 (Sep 14, 2013)

*HELP!!!*

i brought the headlights with the LEDs and installed them myself. The person i brought them from didn't say anything about needing a resistors, so of course there wasn't one included. i went to the guy who normally works on my car (2009 VW lux CC) but he's being blowing me off because he doesn't know how to fix the problem.

i really need dumb down instructions (step-by-step) on how to install the resistors to the headlights to get the the LEDs as the DRL. 

i dont care about the error light i can live with that being on.


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

mal_boy03 said:


> i brought the headlights with the LEDs and installed them myself. The person i brought them from didn't say anything about needing a resistors, so of course there wasn't one included. i went to the guy who normally works on my car (2009 VW lux CC) but he's being blowing me off because he doesn't know how to fix the problem.
> 
> i really need dumb down instructions (step-by-step) on how to install the resistors to the headlights to get the the LEDs as the DRL.
> 
> i dont care about the error light i can live with that being on.


The dumbed down instructions are in this thread...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 4


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

He wants them spoon-fed.. Heh


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

Go through the pages on this thread. (I would recommend backwards to get latest info on what resistor size to use) You will find what you're looking for. Even how to connect them.


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

*Beware of aliexpress (from China) VAG11.11*

I got this the other day and it freezes my laptop (win7) after a while, tried it on Win 8 and it does a (Not Responding) on the VCDS app. I tried updating and it would not find the interface, so I installed 11.11.2 from their CD and then replaced the executable files and still did the same thing. Seller wants me to return but return costs $40 using EMS (trackable) if you send airmail it can't be tracked and you lose your money and item. Beware. I ended up keeping the unit and taking the $23 loss. Ended up paying seller for a VAG12.10 that does work with version 11.11.3 included on CD or Beta 12.10.3, then with the copy trick it works with latest, not sure if it's version # but do not buy 11.11 and maybe beware of defective 12.10's and getting ripped off by some of these tricky sellers, they know you can't ship airmail or you lose your $ and item.


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

m4f1050 said:


> I got this the other day and it freezes my laptop (win7) after a while, tried it on Win 8 and it does a (Not Responding) on the VCDS app. I tried updating and it would not find the interface, so I installed 11.11.2 from their CD and then replaced the executable files and still did the same thing. Seller wants me to return but return costs $40 using EMS (trackable) if you send airmail it can't be tracked and you lose your money and item. Beware. I ended up keeping the unit and taking the $23 loss. Ended up paying seller for a VAG12.10 that does work with version 11.11.3 included on CD or Beta 12.10.3, then with the copy trick it works with latest, not sure if it's version # but do not buy 11.11 and maybe beware of defective 12.10's and getting ripped off by some of these tricky sellers, they know you can't ship airmail or you lose your $ and item.


Wut? Wrong thread?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 4


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

No, it was mentioned here you could get it, just a warning from my experience.. If you read a few pages back you will see it.


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

m4f1050 said:


> I got this the other day and it freezes my laptop (win7) after a while, tried it on Win 8 and it does a (Not Responding) on the VCDS app. I tried updating and it would not find the interface, so I installed 11.11.2 from their CD and then replaced the executable files and still did the same thing. Seller wants me to return but return costs $40 using EMS (trackable) if you send airmail it can't be tracked and you lose your money and item. Beware. I ended up keeping the unit and taking the $23 loss. Ended up paying seller for a VAG12.10 that does work with version 11.11.3 included on CD or Beta 12.10.3, then with the copy trick it works with latest, not sure if it's version # but do not buy 11.11 and maybe beware of defective 12.10's and getting ripped off by some of these tricky sellers, they know you can't ship airmail or you lose your $ and item.


Well they DO warn you not to update, because that will fry the chinese clone chip in the cable. If you stick to the software they ship with the cable and make sure the laptop doesnt have internet access while using the software/cable, then you should be fine.


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> Well they DO warn you not to update, because that will fry the chinese clone chip in the cable. If you stick to the software they ship with the cable and make sure the laptop doesnt have internet access while using the software/cable, then you should be fine.


I understand, but in my case it didn't work from the beginning. I did the update just to check and it kept doing the same thing. They probably sent me a cable that was already fried by a previous update maybe? Someone had an issue with the cable, was it you? When it happened, did it just stopped working and not recognized by "their" software? Because that is not my case, it works for a few mins then it stops working and freezes my laptop.


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## mal_boy03 (Sep 14, 2013)

*LED for DRL*

ok folks!! I INSTALLED THE RESISTORS!! YAY me! the LED lights work and the error messages went away. 

i will be even more happy if i can get some help on how to change the LED to DRLs??? any takers?


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

mal_boy03 said:


> ok folks!! I INSTALLED THE RESISTORS!! YAY me! the LED lights work and the error messages went away.
> 
> i will be even more happy if i can get some help on how to change the LED to DRLs??? any takers?


Congrats! Now for the DRL's; search this thread for "Scandinavian" as you will need to use Vag com to change the DRL setting to Scandinavian, lower the rear bulb output to 1%, etc...Its all outlined within this thread.


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

Another option is to use an European headlight switch, disable the DRL in VCDS and turn on the parking lights when you use your car. Downside is your rear tail lights light up too. I went yet with another option. I cut my parking light cable and installed a resistor across it to turn off error message and provided the LED's it's own +12v switched from a source that provides +12v when I turn on the car. So I can leave the switch on, and yet turn them off when I turn off the car. I also have 3 different sets of DRL's each switched with different switches, so I can turn 1, 2 or 3 of them on/off as I please....


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Can you post a picture of the setup you got?


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## mal_boy03 (Sep 14, 2013)

https://plus.google.com/photos/105527211750809251797/albums/5928823480138905041?banner=pwa


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

mal_boy03 said:


> https://plus.google.com/photos/105527211750809251797/albums/5928823480138905041?banner=pwa


Link doesn't work...empty album.

The government has tapped your phone too.


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## mal_boy03 (Sep 14, 2013)

*try this one*

https://plus.google.com/photos/1055...5928824784889896114&oid=105527211750809251797


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## mal_boy03 (Sep 14, 2013)

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/554541_10100665399696043_1192050284_n.jpg


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## mal_boy03 (Sep 14, 2013)

mal_boy03 said:


> https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/554541_10100665399696043_1192050284_n.jpg


let me know if this one works


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Looks great


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## mal_boy03 (Sep 14, 2013)

here another one with the lights on

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?....602241766083.2154013.57214665&type=3&theater


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

You can't link Facebook photos here man.....


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## mal_boy03 (Sep 14, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> You can't link Facebook photos here man.....


the first one was a facebook photo


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## Jdmagzz (Dec 30, 2013)

*Dectane DRLS*

Is there any way to splice the led wired with the low beam wires to power them?


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## Guest2320 (Aug 2, 2012)

Jdmagzz said:


> Is there any way to splice the led wired with the low beam wires to power them?


absolutely


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## teknodogg (Nov 19, 2013)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEPO-2009-2...d=100011&prg=9700&rk=1&rkt=10&sd=271452143880


just found these on Ebay....$379 shipped....seller says resistors are built-in no error codes.....I wonder if it's too good to be true =/


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## hvan813 (Jun 25, 2012)

teknodogg said:


> http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEPO-2009-2...d=100011&prg=9700&rk=1&rkt=10&sd=271452143880
> 
> 
> just found these on Ebay....$379 shipped....seller says resistors are built-in no error codes.....I wonder if it's too good to be true =/


Idk about that... I bought the silver ones and just installed them.. needed resistors lol

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

teknodogg said:


> http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEPO-2009-2...d=100011&prg=9700&rk=1&rkt=10&sd=271452143880
> 
> 
> just found these on Ebay....$379 shipped....seller says resistors are built-in no error codes.....I wonder if it's too good to be true =/


What's the worst that can happen ? You install your own 5 dollar resistors ? Hardly an issue IMO.


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## brar (Apr 16, 2014)

NRGCC said:


> What's the worst that can happen ? You install your own 5 dollar resistors ? Hardly an issue IMO.


Does these come with bulbs in projectors?


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## mango_springroll (Dec 25, 2012)

brar said:


> Does these come with bulbs in projectors?


No they do not. 
I'm on the verge of buying. :laugh:


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## Stero1D (Aug 8, 2012)

brar said:


> Does these come with bulbs in projectors?


U dnt need bulbs in those, cz you wld need 55watt hid kit!


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## brar (Apr 16, 2014)

What do you suggest, should I go for pre fittex xenons on buy xenons and lights separately?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DEPO-09-11-V...ccessories&hash=item1c3f06c87e&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1


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## mango_springroll (Dec 25, 2012)

brar said:


> What do you suggest, should I go for pre fittex xenons on buy xenons and lights separately?
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DEPO-09-11-V...ccessories&hash=item1c3f06c87e&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1


No pics of the HID ballasts and not sure if the LED strips (parking lights in OEM) work and error-free. Not worth the risk.


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## milan187 (Mar 15, 2009)

brar said:


> What do you suggest, should I go for pre fittex xenons on buy xenons and lights separately?
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DEPO-09-11-V...ccessories&hash=item1c3f06c87e&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1


Also 8000k :facepalm:


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## Guest2320 (Aug 2, 2012)

It says in the description that they can substitute 8k for 6k upon request. I would take that deal.


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## milan187 (Mar 15, 2009)

Guest2320 said:


> It says in the description that they can substitute 8k for 6k upon request. I would take that deal.


I would not go above 5000k personally, its white with a hint of blue still.
However 6000k is OK to me, 8000k is not.

I think stock color is 4300k?


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## brar (Apr 16, 2014)

mango_springroll said:


> No pics of the HID ballasts and not sure if the LED strips (parking lights in OEM) work and error-free. Not worth the risk.


Actually these are the same Depo Headlights but we can surely ask the seller about HID. He has written plug and play so might be error free. 

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


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## brar (Apr 16, 2014)

Can anyone please share instructions on how to use resistors. Any pictures would really help.
In canada, am not getting 100 ohm resistor in the same shape as in OP, but getting universal shaped restor that is used in circuits. Is it fine?


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

Have you read this thread? Its clearly identified where to connect the resistors. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk


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## brar (Apr 16, 2014)

Turb02 said:


> Have you read this thread? Its clearly identified where to connect the resistors.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk


Yes I have read the thread, I just want to know if someone has use this kind of resistors. http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b9/Resistors_color_code.jpg

Only these are available here in canada at "The Source".


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

Can you order them online and get them delivered? I would think "the internet" delivers to the great white north.

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## brar (Apr 16, 2014)

Turb02 said:


> Can you order them online and get them delivered? I would think "the internet" delivers to the great white north.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk


They take 20 bucks for a $5 thing. 
So these ones wouldn't work? 

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

Then do the vcds coding so the resistors arent needed... I believe thats also identified in this thread.

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## brar (Apr 16, 2014)

Are these available at Radio shack, I would probably go to US next week.


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## geoioa (Jul 15, 2013)

are the drl led's clearly visible during the day? what type of led's they use?


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## brar (Apr 16, 2014)

Did the installation today.. Thanks for the wonderful thread. 

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


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## geoioa (Jul 15, 2013)

hello everybody
because i am planning to retrofit those hid projectors in the original halogen headlights can anybody tell me how to remove the headlights? i have read somewhere that it can be done without removing the bumper. Is it true?


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Yes it is.


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## brar (Apr 16, 2014)

geoioa said:


> hello everybody
> because i am planning to retrofit those hid projectors in the original halogen headlights can anybody tell me how to remove the headlights? i have read somewhere that it can be done without removing the bumper. Is it true?


Go through the thread thoroughly, read every page and post. There is a lot of information hidden in every single post if you start reading the conversations. 

To give you an overview, follow the below steps. 
1. Remove Grille
2. Remove Fog lamp covers
3. Unscrew and remove Headlights, there are 3 screws. 
4. Install new Headlights 
5. Add resistance between brown and parking to turn on LEDs
6. Check if everything is working fine, then screw up new lights. 
7. Install back fog lamp covers and grille
8. Use vag for LED DRL and turn off normal DRL

Done

Took about 10 hours for me to do all this, and yes am a noob. 

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## brar (Apr 16, 2014)

Some pictures.. 


























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## brar (Apr 16, 2014)

Few more shots. 





































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## kingpapijio (Jan 1, 2014)

*How d*

How do you turn off headlights but have the drls on?


brar said:


> Few more shots.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

Did you read this thread? The answer is here.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk


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## brar (Apr 16, 2014)

kingpapijio said:


> How do you turn off headlights but have the drls on?


With VAG (VCDS)


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## thejk (Aug 18, 2011)

*New guy wanting to get it right*

Thanks for everyone's substantive contributions and efforts for CC owners, especially 17 pages worth of work on these headlights.

I spent this evening reading through this thread from start to finish - that was after I researched a true projector retrofit on the OE halogens, then found DEPO replacements on eBay and then found peterek's original install post when I checked on the lights.

I have a decent idea of what I am doing for this install - even though I haven't yet taken delivery of my '11 CC Sport - and wanted to make sure that an electrical idiot like me was prepared to make this change.

My objective is to ditch the halogens, install the projectors and set it up so that that LED lights act as DRLs while the low beams are turned off. Ideally, I would have the LEDs at 50% power when the low beams are kicked on. 

So in essence, I want to:
1) Buy these E-Code Projector Headlights from eBay
2) Buy a Pair of 100ohm 10watt resistors like these - http://www.parts-express.com/100-ohm-10w-resistor-wire-wound-5-tolerance--016-100

and EITHER

- Buy a VagCom clone from Ali Express like the one linked here
- Then proceed with the Scandinavian DRL programming as outlined by jiangelo and company
- Then I'm done and living large, right?

OR 

- Buy a Hardwired DRL wiring module/switch that runs to my battery like the one linked here
- Then follow this linked DIY from iJDMToy to power and control the LEDs as my DRLs
- I want to adapt that module's wiring harness to tap into the wire that powers the LED strips, so I would cut that line on the harness and wire the 12V power source straight into the plug into the headlights, right?
- Then I'm done and living large, right?

So my questions are:
- Do I have that info above more or less correct?
- Am I correct in believing that I DO NOT need a Euro light switch if I use VCDS to change my DRL settings?
- If I am tapping into the #10 Parking Light wire on my harness, which powers the LED strip on the headlights, and feeding them 12V from the battery, do I need the resistors to be installed at all?
- Have we addressed whether or not a VCDS flash can dim the LEDs when the low beams are turned on? (Not super important)

If I use the DRL Module, how do I want to splice the power wire into the harness? It's designed for a separate set of LED DRLs like many of you members have, so I'm not sure how to rig that up. 

Is it really just the best idea to buy a VCDS clone because it will come in handy in the future for other appications AND will avoid additional engine bay wiring?

I'm sorry if I'm missing something or getting some things wrong - that was A LOT of info to take in and process, so please let me know if I'm on track or where I'm off base.

Thanks for your past contributions and helping me love my CC like you guys love yours!


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## tellonr (Jan 8, 2013)

Not sure if I'm allow to post about selling if not then just remove it...

whoever interested in these headlight, I have Chrome one up for sale. used less than 3 months. I got black one thats why I'm selling it. Nothing wrong with it. In great condition.

Msg me if interested.


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## GermanVW (May 14, 2014)

I bought those lights today and now i need guide to install them can anyone lead me to it or post something here. FYI i dont have VCDS so keeping it as it is.


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

^ start on page one of this thread and read. Install instructions are clearly here.

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## 2.0fsi (Jul 20, 2011)

I tried all the codings with VCS and none worked to make HighBeams work. I tried jiangleo coding - I don't even see xenon no shutters option - I have 2011 model. I think the ECU has different options not like 2009

What can I do? I purchased cancellers but when I plug them in, lights dont even turn on. I have a canceller going from ballast to light, there is no other way to connect it but it doesnt work.. 

what coding can i do in vcs?


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## jiangleo (May 21, 2012)

Have you tried just put the halogen bulbs in? It has been a while, I believe the VCDS setting tricks are just for the LED DRL of the Dectane projector headlights . For my set up, I did not use any cancellers or relays. I think the reason you did not see the xenon no shutters option is the 2012 CC does not have a highline central electrics control module. You may need to swap the modules. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3173886-DIY-Highline-CECM-Swap




2.0fsi said:


> I tried all the codings with VCS and none worked to make HighBeams work. I tried jiangleo coding - I don't even see xenon no shutters option - I have 2011 model. I think the ECU has different options not like 2009
> 
> What can I do? I purchased cancellers but when I plug them in, lights dont even turn on. I have a canceller going from ballast to light, there is no other way to connect it but it doesnt work..
> 
> what coding can i do in vcs?


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## pfpgpr (Jun 3, 2014)

jiangleo said:


> Have you tried just put the halogen bulbs in? It has been a while, I believe the VCDS setting tricks are just for the LED DRL of the Dectane projector headlights . For my set up, I did not use any cancellers or relays. I think the reason you did not see the xenon no shutters option is the 2012 CC does not have a highline central electrics control module. You may need to swap the modules.
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3173886-DIY-Highline-CECM-Swap


how to check what cecm i have without vcds my 9-ce module coding has more than 60 bytes
(passat cc 1.8 november 2011 halogen with fogs ecu med 17.5.2)


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## 2.0fsi (Jul 20, 2011)

so is it possible to just check off xenon without shutters bit even though it just an empty box? no text next to it ? what byte is in? 
i really dont want to replace ecm for this.. it just makes no sense - too expensive


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## DarthBajan (Oct 22, 2008)

2.0fsi said:


> so is it possible to just check off xenon without shutters bit even though it just an empty box? no text next to it ? what byte is in?
> i really dont want to replace ecm for this.. it just makes no sense - too expensive


Are you in the CC Facebook group? PM me your facebook info and I'll try to help you out. It would be easier with pictures, but uploading here isn't that intuitive.


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## GGCC (Jul 23, 2013)

munnarg

Saw your post in another thread about the solenoids sticking causing the high beams not to work. Can you elaborate? I'm planning on getting these lights and thought I had everything figured out but your comment confused me. I thought the solenoid was only for headlight positioning. And the high beam/lows beams are two separate bulbs; headlight switch toggles between high beam bulbs and low beam bulbs and that's it. Is this not the case? My plan was to install them and not make use of the headlight positioning solenoids. Just manually adjust them at install and be done with it. If I'm wrong just let me know and I'll re-read this thread to find out what I missed.


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## DarthBajan (Oct 22, 2008)

Here you go. I've seen it mentioned on Facebook as well. I'm sure most don't have any issues, but it's something to be aware of. These headlights have essentially 4 high beams. The two high beam bulbs (one on each side) and the solenoid that triggers the cutoff shield in front of the low beam to move out of the way. 



GGCC said:


> munnarg
> 
> Saw your post in another thread about the solenoids sticking causing the high beams not to work. Can you elaborate? I'm planning on getting these lights and thought I had everything figured out but your comment confused me. I thought the solenoid was only for headlight positioning. And the high beam/lows beams are two separate bulbs; headlight switch toggles between high beam bulbs and low beam bulbs and that's it. Is this not the case? My plan was to install them and not make use of the headlight positioning solenoids. Just manually adjust them at install and be done with it. If I'm wrong just let me know and I'll re-read this thread to find out what I missed.





NRGCC said:


> Last night one of my projectors high beam solenoids got stuck on.... It fixed itself down the road a few minutes later and hasn't happened since. But... Hmm..





m4f1050 said:


> That happened to me a few times now. I just click high beams until it fixes itself....but yeah, I have had same issue.


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## GGCC (Jul 23, 2013)

Ahhhhhh. Forgot about the projector cutoff shield. Thanks :beer:


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## ju319 (Mar 7, 2015)

*headlights*

those are sick with your car! I am a complete newb and would like to know what website you got your head lights. I've been lookin at what everyone has been posting however when looking it up... i cant seem to find the headlights. I have a cc sport I think those would look good on mine too. I appreciate the help!


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

munnarg said:


> Here you go. I've seen it mentioned on Facebook as well. I'm sure most don't have any issues, but it's something to be aware of. These headlights have essentially 4 high beams. The two high beam bulbs (one on each side) and the solenoid that triggers the cutoff shield in front of the low beam to move out of the way.


Yeah mine get stuck pretty much everytime I turn on the highbeams. And the ONLY way to get them to come back down now is strike it with my fist a few times, until the shield comes back down. Very annoying. Cheap sh**t, I guess.


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## timoshina (Nov 14, 2012)

brar said:


> Go through the thread thoroughly, read every page and post. There is a lot of information hidden in every single post if you start reading the conversations.
> 
> To give you an overview, follow the below steps.
> 1. Remove Grille
> ...


Guys, I bought ceramic 100ohm resistors from radioshack but I still don't understand how to connect them. I've read the whole thread, but can't see a clear graphical instructions/the photo links are broken. Can someone make a photo illustration DIY for resistors hook up, please? :beer::beer::beer:


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## timoshina (Nov 14, 2012)

So nobody has a simple picture of the resistor setup?? Guys pls! I found a brown wire on original headlight connector but which one is the parking light wire, for funk's sake??
Can i use t-taps to connect those 2 wires?


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## timoshina (Nov 14, 2012)

Ok, i took some pics of the wires. I hope someone will help me now


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

Seriously man. The info IS IN THIS THREAD. It may not be pictures...you may have to read.

That said the resistor goes from brown to gray/red and brown to gray/black. The stripe color is different on both sides.......so one side has the red stripe and the other has a black stripe. At least my 2010 did.

The info on how to install these, vagcom code these, add resistors to these, IS IN THIS THREAD.


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## Slammed CC (Aug 24, 2013)

LOL.... Tell them Turbo! This is the exact same thread I used to install mine.


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## timoshina (Nov 14, 2012)

Turb02 said:


> Seriously man. The info IS IN THIS THREAD. It may not be pictures...you may have to read.
> 
> That said the resistor goes from brown to gray/red and brown to gray/black. The stripe color is different on both sides.......so one side has the red stripe and the other has a black stripe. At least my 2010 did.
> 
> The info on how to install these, vagcom code these, add resistors to these, IS IN THIS THREAD.


I've seen this advice before and i did read this thread few times. But still, i just want to understand clearly what i need to do. I don't wanna mess up my car, that's all. Many instruction posts really confuse me. post #501 says: put resistor between pin 10 and the brown wire (ground). Ok there is brown wire inside the headlight and a brown wire in pin 5. Which one? I swear when u are a noob with electric work, this sounds confusing. Ok lets get to the buttom line. Do I get this right, resistor goes from pin10 to pin5, on oem connector?


Just like this? (c)

:facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::facepalm:


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## Turb02 (Jul 15, 2010)

Just like that.


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## timoshina (Nov 14, 2012)

Turb02 said:


> Just like that.


Thank you, sir! :wave::beer:


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## GGCC (Jul 23, 2013)

timoshina said:


> Thank you, sir! :wave::beer:


I'm right there with you timoshina. What's pictured is how I thought it was supposed to be but I wasn't 100% sure based on the written instructions in this thread. Some people are more visual when it comes to stuff like this. :wave:


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## CC1089 (May 6, 2015)

I stumbled across this very helpful thread in my search for HID projector headlights (2011 CC sport). After reading the entire thread, I was ready to pull the trigger on Dectane wiring HID myself until I found these on Amazon - Projector headlights including LED strip with HID bulb installed.

http://www.amazon.com/09-11-Passat-...bs_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=16QG4Z9SCW3KYSSTQB1R

They look similar to Ebay's E-Code Projector Headlights(with halogen bulb) or Dectane's equivalent set-up that I was about to buy and wire HID myself.

Has anyone seen a review or tried them firsthand? I'm very skeptical with no product review OR instructions...


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## 2.0fsi (Jul 20, 2011)

They look just like eBay lights but cost few hundred more. What's the reason for increased price? 

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## L8Train (Oct 7, 2011)

2.0fsi said:


> They look just like eBay lights but cost few hundred more. What's the reason for increased price?
> 
> Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk


They have HIDs in the low beams already. They are the same headlights that someone installed a HID kit into and is reselling for a profit.


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## blaze452 (Nov 25, 2013)

What are the factory bits? I changed mine to try and get the leds to work without the resistors but forgot the original settings


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## blaze452 (Nov 25, 2013)

Is there any way to disable the high beam in the projector so that I can you use only the normal high beams? If I flash the high beam even once the driver side sticks and theres no way to un stick it with out taking out the headlight! But I would still like to be able to use high beams every now and then!

Also I have the Scandanovian setting marked in vagcom so the leds come on when I start the car, problem is the tail lights and license plate light up at all times now as well and I personally don't like that, Is there any way to do this without all the rear lights coming on? You would also think that setting the parking brake would turn off the "DRLs" so that you could fully shut off your lights while the cars running, but it does not seem like you can do this.....

Any input would be greatly appreciated, yes I read through the thread. I know a couple people wired the leds up to a switch but I dont prefer that idea.


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## Nethers (Dec 2, 2013)

Apparently there are now 25 pages in this thread, wow. Do any of them reference a place to buy in the US? I noticed Dectane/Orange Tuning are both GER based. Also, quick question as I haven't read through, corning light fix is in place or still no cornering light support? Lastly, what is the warranty? Yes, TL;DR, if I buy I plan on reading.


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

blaze452 said:


> Is there any way to disable the high beam in the projector so that I can you use only the normal high beams? If I flash the high beam even once the driver side sticks and theres no way to un stick it with out taking out the headlight! But I would still like to be able to use high beams every now and then!
> 
> Also I have the Scandanovian setting marked in vagcom so the leds come on when I start the car, problem is the tail lights and license plate light up at all times now as well and I personally don't like that, Is there any way to do this without all the rear lights coming on? You would also think that setting the parking brake would turn off the "DRLs" so that you could fully shut off your lights while the cars running, but it does not seem like you can do this.....
> 
> Any input would be greatly appreciated, yes I read through the thread. I know a couple people wired the leds up to a switch but I dont prefer that idea.


Mine does the same thing... What I have to do is go up to the headlight and literally punch it few times with the side of my fist. I'm guessing the shock from it, wedges the high beam flap loose. I've had to do that several times the last couple years. LOL


As far as the LEDs... just wire them separately to a "ignition on" source in the fuse box. That's what I did...


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## HunterRose (Feb 16, 1999)

Has anyone had any issues with these (Leaking, leds buring out, etc). THey have been in cars on the forum for awhile so thought I'd see how the long term test is going. (Also looking to convince my wife to give me a set for Christmas)


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

The LEDs have held up well and the car has been driven daily with them on. However, spider cracks in the lens have appeared on the sides. My other set of cheap headlights from ebay on my Camaro did the same thing. Must be a "cheaply made" headlight thing. It's barely noticeable, but it's there.

Other than that.... they're decent headlights, but the projectors SUCK. Be prepared not to see anything with them, they're simply an appearance mod in my opinion.


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## miken0385 (Jan 31, 2006)

*2012 cc*

Looking for model specific info as I know from several other posts that my '12 sport is different from the 09-11. I already have the lights, just looking for a heads up on what to expect to be dealing with in my 2012 that others may/may not have to deal with for this install. I was thinking of direct wiring the led strip to a key on 12v source. Anyone attempt this?

End goal is led drl's with no low beam drl. I did read through most of this post so forgive me if I missed something...


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Today I took the Dectane headlights off. Got tired of the poor performance from the projectors. If anybody wants them cheap, let me know. PM me with your offer. They're in good shape still.. I just dont like them anymore. Black version is what I got.


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## unctucker (Aug 24, 2013)

NRGCC said:


> Today I took the Dectane headlights off. Got tired of the poor performance from the projectors. If anybody wants them cheap, let me know. PM me with your offer. They're in good shape still.. I just dont like them anymore. Black version is what I got.


What's wrong with the projector? 

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## VdubXXIV (Feb 14, 2008)

NRGCC said:


> Today I took the Dectane headlights off. Got tired of the poor performance from the projectors. If anybody wants them cheap, let me know. PM me with your offer. They're in good shape still.. I just dont like them anymore. Black version is what I got.


While no experience with these directly but with other aftermarket projectors this does not surprise me. Almost went this route and im glad I saw this. If these are like the others lights I've experienced on other cars, you might as well be driving with your headlights off.:thumbdown:


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## JustAkid (Jul 6, 2010)

There's a place here in Houston tx that will retrofit your oem headlights using Acura or bmw quality projectors for around 700 dollars. I'm sure they also ship. I just don't remember the name of the company, a co worker got it done on his car a couple years back


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## z1687385 (Feb 12, 2016)

timoshina said:


> I've seen this advice before and i did read this thread few times. But still, i just want to understand clearly what i need to do. I don't wanna mess up my car, that's all. Many instruction posts really confuse me. post #501 says: put resistor between pin 10 and the brown wire (ground). Ok there is brown wire inside the headlight and a brown wire in pin 5. Which one? I swear when u are a noob with electric work, this sounds confusing. Ok lets get to the buttom line. Do I get this right, resistor goes from pin10 to pin5, on oem connector?
> 
> 
> Just like this? (c)
> ...


i did exact same thing why isn't my working!


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## ryan3326 (Nov 17, 2014)

Great post - thanks.


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## tiffany3000 (Jul 15, 2016)

Dectane projector headlights with DRL LED strips

so i just gor my ross-tec cable today and im trying to get my new projector headlights with DRL LED strips to work but when i downloaded the VCDS its the new 1.0.6.23 udate and the bytes dont look like the bytes any one online have. can some one please help?


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## timoshina (Nov 14, 2012)

Hey people,
so after a year+ having these headlights I started to have a problem with LED stripe on passenger side. I've had 50w 100Ohm resistors installed that work great without a single problem all this time. However, recently while driving on a highway 1,5 hours, I got passenger side parking light error. Then it went away, then came back on. .goes like that unpredictable on and off. Now it starts giving error faster, sometimes error come on and off and never shows again. Also LED stripe's light is not steady like the wire is loose (which cannot be) or bad current.. while driver's side is perfect. I replaced the resistor with a brand new one with no effect. Anybody had this fixed or has any idea of what's going on?


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## Stero1D (Aug 8, 2012)

Bake em, open and fix em


Me n Peter were the first ones to get them done and figured out on CC, so I had dectanes for 3+ years with no issues n his are still fine


I went a different rout in spring, since I cant have stuff others have ))


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## Stero1D (Aug 8, 2012)

OEM Euro Halogens with Morimoto projectors retrofit and LaminX tint







❤











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## timoshina (Nov 14, 2012)

Stero1D said:


> Bake em, open and fix em
> 
> 
> Me n Peter were the first ones to get them done and figured out on CC, so I had dectanes for 3+ years with no issues n his are still fine
> ...


Open and fix them how? What's wrong with it?

Those custom ones are nice!!  how much is morimoto projectors? I have stock headlighs, might wanna modify them cause it looks amazing on your car. The only thing i hate on stock is orage reflector, i wish that little part can be replaced alone rather than buying new headlighrs.. that wouldn't be smart since they are identical


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## Wily91 (Oct 18, 2016)

Can anyone post a DIY again on how change the headlights with pictures ?


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## ciuley (Feb 2, 2014)

*Smoke or steam in new dectane projector with hid kit!*

Hello!After half hour using the low bean xenon ,in the projectors,more in te left one,appears a little "smoke" ,in the daylight is not visibile the smoke for that i thing is steam or hot plastic, anyone has this isues.?
The projectors haves 1 day old,the only hot thing in projector is the bulb housing,if y open the back tap the smoke disapeir,the smoke inside is mor e like a hot plastic its not smell like burninhg cable.


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## superdave67 (Sep 14, 2014)

After over a year of having these headlights in, I finally put the resistors on... and boy do they (the resistors) get HOT! I can't even hold them. I did read on the resistor warning label that yes, they'll get hot, but damn... they get HOT. Everybody else's get that hot?


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## mango_springroll (Dec 25, 2012)

superdave67 said:


> After over a year of having these headlights in, I finally put the resistors on... and boy do they (the resistors) get HOT! I can't even hold them. I did read on the resistor warning label that yes, they'll get hot, but damn... they get HOT. Everybody else's get that hot?


What are the values of the resistor? If I think I used at least ~300+ ohm 10W ceramic resistors. For safety, I also wrapped with heat shrinks.


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## superdave67 (Sep 14, 2014)

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-wKqBsn_H3JUlZISXBhWHJYNWM


These are the resistors I used...


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## mango_springroll (Dec 25, 2012)

superdave67 said:


> These are the resistors I used...


It doesn't get hot? 


Correction to my previous response, I used 10W 560ohm resistor, wrapped, gets warm, not burning hot. It only gets hotter in summer time.


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## mattrflores (Sep 22, 2018)

*Thread Resurrection*

Okay so I apologize for reviving this dead thread but this has begun to piss me off haha.
I followed Jiangleos instructions to the T an used 80 ohm 25 w resistors as a later poster recommended for heat isues but im still getting the following errors:
00978 - Left low beam headlamp bulb Open circuit/short circuit to B+
static
00979 - Right low beam headlamp bulb Open circuit/short circuit to B+
static

Also there were these trouble codes as well, if you ahve any ifo if its in relation to the aftermarket headlights please say so:
U111100 - Function limitation due to missing message
static
01771 - Headlamp range control module No signal/communication
static
02874 - Comfort system central control module 2 No signal/communication
static
00456 - Access/start authorization control module No signal/communication
static
03272 - External audio source connection No signal/communication
static


Lets knock this out. Im using obdeleven long coding for this.


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## BMOREGLI (Dec 12, 2006)

I have mine still in the box. Plugged them up once without the resistor and the LEDS flickered then went out. Dash lit up. Of course I don't have resistors because I have not been confident in what i read as to what are the correct ones to use. I hope someone responds to your question.


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## BMOREGLI (Dec 12, 2006)

mattrflores said:


> Okay so I apologize for reviving this dead thread but this has begun to piss me off haha.
> I followed Jiangleos instructions to the T an used 80 ohm 25 w resistors as a later poster recommended for heat isues but im still getting the following errors:
> 00978 - Left low beam headlamp bulb Open circuit/short circuit to B+
> static
> ...



Did you ever get this resolved? I installed mine today with HIDs from DEAUTOLED, no issues with the HIDs. I receiver no errors on my lights except for the LEDS in the headlamp. I am not using resistors. I know they light up because when i flick the switch they glow for a quick second. The bulb light error is for the parking lights. I did what "jianglo" did and that did not fix it.


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## qwikxr (Feb 9, 2003)

Can you even get the Dectane headlights anymore? I've searched for them for my 2011 pre-facelift CC and haven't found them. What am I missing when I search for these?

Thanks


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## BMOREGLI (Dec 12, 2006)

https://www.shopdap.com/vw-cc-aftermarket-projector-headlights-black.html

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## qwikxr (Feb 9, 2003)

BMOREGLI said:


> https://www.shopdap.com/vw-cc-aftermarket-projector-headlights-black.html
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Like a boss! Thanks


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## BMOREGLI (Dec 12, 2006)

qwikxr said:


> Like a boss! Thanks


:thumbup: Let us know if you decide to get them.


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## kex0r (Dec 7, 2016)

Sorry to dig out an old thread like that, but I would have a question to other owners of those headlights.
I guess my low beam light went out (the bulb on the very far side out).

How are you supposed to switch the bulbs?
I got the bulb out but I haven't figured out a way how to mount the clip back into place.
Is it supposed to be just like push and twist to get them back in (like it would be with the original headlights?)
Because I tried that for a while, but did not really seem to work.

(Honestly taking the whole front apart and installing the headlights was less painful, than attempting to switch the bulb)

Close up pic of the still installed and working bulb on the other side of the car.
Not sure if just twist and push to get it back in or if I have to "bend" the clamps to get it back in.


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