# TT-RS Brakes & Pads



## J662 (Dec 8, 2011)

Looking for some insight on a good brake upgrade. Something good for both street and a little bit track. 

Would changing pads, lines and fluid be considered a decent upgrade/mod?

I know there have been some posts somewhere but...

At least the car doesn't have brake dust issues. Ha. 










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## - Jeremy - (Feb 23, 2006)

I bought some 600+ degree fluid and a bleeding kit from ECS Tuning before the car arrived. I've been waiting for the weather to warm up a little before performing the bleed so I can't comment on the effectiveness yet. I don't mind the stock pads so I'm going to wait for them to wear down a bit before replacing them. However, they're the same as the 2010 STI so they're easy to find online in any compound you desire. The pedal feel is slightly mushy so I'm hoping that the fluid change will help, but it would likely take some new lines to firm it up. I just don't know if I'm willing to make that swap.

I'm definitely planning on buying this rear rotor upgrade kit to increase the size by 20mm and get drilled rotors to match the front. I just need to get off my lazy ass and place the order.

http://racing-shop-germany.com/K-Sp...t-auf-groessere-Bremsscheiben-hinten-330x22mm

- Jeremy -


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## DesertTTRS (Dec 17, 2011)

I installed stock size rear drilled rotors,removed backing plates,installed Pagid RS4-2 Blue compound pads - waiting for front stainless lines (have rears) to flush and fill w/ Motul.


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## J662 (Dec 8, 2011)

DesertTTRS said:


> I installed stock size rear drilled rotors,removed backing plates,installed Pagid RS4-2 Blue compound pads - waiting for front stainless lines (have rears) to flush and fill w/ Motul.


Where can I find those stainless lines and pads? Did you buy them online? Thanks!


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## DesertTTRS (Dec 17, 2011)

Pads from LPI Racing Livermore CA Phone (925)292-5522 P/N Pagid 2487_RS4-2_1690 for Subaru STI. Rear rotors and stainless rear lines from Twin T Development Las Vegas (702)917-5055


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## pal (Aug 16, 2000)

J662- are you hoping to improve any particular aspect the brakes? Pedal feel? Stopping distance? Noise? Fade resistance?

*Fluid* - Motul RBF 600 or Brembo LCF 600+ are great racing fluids that will help with reducing fade when repeatedly pushed e.g., on a track. But a racing fluid also tends to be more hygroscopic and should be flushed more frequently.

*Pads*- lots of choices here. If you say what you are looking for, people can offer you options based on experience or pad specs.

*Lines*- stainless lines are a great upgrade for consistent pedal feel as they dont expand and contract like rubber lines. 

*Rotors* - Weight is a consideration as is venting style. I tend to stay away from aftermarket drilled rotors as if not drilled right and chamfered properly, they will start to crack at the holes. Seen it many times on track.

*Calipers* - Piston size front to rear to get the right bias and cooling capacity are important here. I have a square StopTech BBK at all 4 corners of my M Coupe and it has reduced pedal pressure needed to stop the car, stopping distances are shorter as I can brake deeper and later and it preserbes the fluid well that I can do 2-3 track days before a flush/bleed.


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## DrDomm (Feb 16, 2003)

I suggest the Stoptech BBK...doubt you "need" it on the rear, though. SS lines. Motul 600. Performance Friction 01 pads. 

That combo worked great on my TTS.


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## 996cab (Aug 13, 2011)

J662, 
I will do the following... 

*Fluid - ENDLESS RF650* 
This is sold in 0.5ltr bottles and you will need 5x to fully and 'properly' flush out old for this. The key advantage with this fluid I found is that it is stable and progressive in use. Most other fluids are digressive in use. 

The bleeding cycle is reportedly longer in comparison to the competition. I have just stated using ENDLESS Rf650 and can report that it 'feels' so re-assuring when braking VERY late on track...for example braking after the pit lane straight at Brands Hatch...the track drops down at the end of the straight and I used to hate that particular straight...no more with the ENDLESS RF650 fluid...I was giggling each time I braked later with total confidence...! 

*Pads* 
For the fronts, I will take a look at Performance Friction (PFC) Z-rated pads - reportedly excellent for streets and good enough for light track use. I have the PFC01 which is too powerful for me even on track using street tyres so I will be giving the PFC08 compound a try next. They are reportedly just as good as the PFC01, not as powerful though however produces less heat and dust. 

For the rears, I went for Pagid RS-19 and would advise this to anyone who wants a stable braking. It essentially shift braking bias to the rear a little - which is a good thing on the TT-RS as it stops the rears from wobbling. 

*Lines* 
Stainless lines are a no brainer if you want to get a consistant feel...that is what I found anyway. 

*Rotors* 
I would still keep OEM all round and try the above fluid, steel lines and pad changes first. 

*Calipers* 
I would still keep OEM all round and try the above fluid, steel lines and pad changes first. 

WB


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## J662 (Dec 8, 2011)

996cab said:


> J662,
> I will do the following...
> 
> *Fluid - ENDLESS RF650*
> ...


 Appreciate the info. That's exactly the solution I'm looking for. 


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## R5T (Apr 7, 2010)

J662 said:


> Looking for some insight on a good brake upgrade. Something good for both street and a little bit track.


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## J662 (Dec 8, 2011)

R5T said:


>


 Those are killer. Where can you buy that setup?


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## JohnLZ7W (Nov 23, 2003)

J662 said:


> Those are killer. Where can you buy that setup?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 OEMPlus carries them, prices are around $20k for the setup. 

http://www.oemplus.com/brake-conversion-rs4-carbonceramic-p-497.html


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## J662 (Dec 8, 2011)

JohnLZ7W said:


> OEMPlus carries them, prices are around $20k for the setup.
> 
> http://www.oemplus.com/brake-conversion-rs4-carbonceramic-p-497.html


 Omg 20k!


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## Black BeauTTy (Jun 11, 2011)

J662 said:


> Omg 20k!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 Let's organize a group buy and get 10% off, that'll do it!:screwy:


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## joshsmith (Apr 17, 2011)

J662 said:


> Those are killer. Where can you buy that setup?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





R5T said:


>


 Looks unreal!! Wish we could've gotten that as an option over here in Aus - I'd have gotten it for way cheaper!! 



JohnLZ7W said:


> OEMPlus carries them, prices are around $20k for the setup.
> 
> http://www.oemplus.com/brake-conversion-rs4-carbonceramic-p-497.html


 Even the option for the RS5 carbon ceramics are about 15k... Not sure why this is 20k!!! That is HUGE money but for 20k I'd be doing a lot of other things including upgrading pads/rotors and have change!!


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## J662 (Dec 8, 2011)

Black BeauTTy said:


> Let's organize a group buy and get 10% off, that'll do it!:screwy:


 Haha. That would then make it an affordable 19,800. What a bargain. 


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## Black BeauTTy (Jun 11, 2011)

J662 said:


> Haha. That would then make it an affordable 19,800. What a bargain.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 :what: LOL, you're off a decimal place...it'll be a "reasonable" 18K! Who's in? :screwy:


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## J662 (Dec 8, 2011)

Black BeauTTy said:


> :what: LOL, you're off a decimal place...it'll be a "reasonable" 18K! Who's in? :screwy:


 Oh oops. 18k is much better! I'm in. 


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## joshsmith (Apr 17, 2011)

What do you guys think of the standard braking package? I think it's very powerful but something lacks.. It's not as bity as I like and it lacks some serious feel through my pedal.. 

Does anyone else feel this?

Surprisingly these pads don't appear to wear down much if at all! (I drive her hard hehe).

I've been recommended the Ferodo RS2500 (I think that's what it's called - can't remember) haha. :facepalm:

Would changing the pads make such a difference to the feel in the pedal, braking power and bityness?


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## - Jeremy - (Feb 23, 2006)

joshsmith said:


> What do you guys think of the standard braking package? I think it's very powerful but something lacks.. It's not as bity as I like and it lacks some serious feel through my pedal..
> 
> Does anyone else feel this?
> 
> ...


Yep. They have good modulation but very little bite and they fade very easily under heat. They can't really clamp hard like I want them to. So I've ordered some Carbotech XP12's for the front and XP8's for the rear. Along with some 1521's (front) for the street. Race pads on the street are pretty unbearable for most people. Luckily, swapping out the pads on the front is a 15 min job per wheel so I don't mind doing it for track days. 

I went with the Carbotechs because they have a non-corrossive compound that is also pretty easy on the rotors. Most racing brakes like the Ferodos or Hawks will chew up your rotors pretty quick and also leave a nasty layer of dust everywhere that turns corrossive when wet.

- Jeremy -


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## joshsmith (Apr 17, 2011)

- Jeremy - said:


> Yep. They have good modulation but very little bite and they fade very easily under heat. They can't really clamp hard like I want them to. So I've ordered some Carbotech XP12's for the front and XP8's for the rear. Along with some 1521's (front) for the street. Race pads on the street are pretty unbearable for most people. Luckily, swapping out the pads on the front is a 15 min job per wheel so I don't mind doing it for track days.
> 
> I went with the Carbotechs because they have a non-corrossive compound that is also pretty easy on the rotors. Most racing brakes like the Ferodos or Hawks will chew up your rotors pretty quick and also leave a nasty layer of dust everywhere that turns corrossive when wet.
> 
> - Jeremy -


Hmm very interesting.. 

I'm happy to have race pads for the road; the more race the beter is the way I see it


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## - Jeremy - (Feb 23, 2006)

joshsmith said:


> Hmm very interesting..
> 
> I'm happy to have race pads for the road; the more race the beter is the way I see it


Like this? 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=th4TLez3i3E

But at least you get a little light show at night:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=At4sORiH4a0

- Jeremy -


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## - Jeremy - (Feb 23, 2006)

On another note, my Goodridge steel lines came in yesterday. They look good. No idea how they fit yet, though. I'll try to get them on this weekend.










- Jeremy -


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## JohnLZ7W (Nov 23, 2003)

Keep us posted on the brake lines. I've heard they need a bit of work to get them to fit properly


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## 996cab (Aug 13, 2011)

R5T said:


>


IT is nice to dream however why spend 50% of the value of the car and hard earned cash on brakes alone...for an Audi TT?

Erm, does not make sense to me...and am not shy to spend however I will find it difficult to justify $20k on brakes alone for an Audi TT.

I give those brakes a :thumbdown: certainly on an Audi TT.


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## eddiey (Apr 25, 2012)

*2012 TTRS aftermarket brake pads?*

For replacement brakes pads without a wear sensor, what did you do with the brake pad wear sensor plug? 

1. Splice the existing wires in order to loop the sensor so it's constantly reading pads is good so not to trigger brake warning light? 
2. Purchase a plug that loops the signal without having to splice the wires yourself? Is there such a plug for the 2012 TT RS? ECStuning has a plug but doesn't work for the TTRS?


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## TTracing (Mar 20, 2008)

Driving with the Carbotech 1521(front) for 3 weeks,now. 

They,definitely,don't have the OEM grasp and power. 
For everyday driving, they're ok, however... 

The big plus,no dust,no dust at all.The rear wheels,still OEM pads,dirty after 2 weeks...the front still shiny. 
And no noise,besides the sheshee of a pad trying to grab a rotor...


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## mageus (Sep 1, 2004)

eddiey said:


> For replacement brakes pads without a wear sensor, what did you do with the brake pad wear sensor plug?


 1. Short and splice the sensor PLUG wires, not the wires leading to the car. That way you can use a sensor if you decide to go back to stock pads.


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## eddiey (Apr 25, 2012)

*OEM stock front pads are out of this world...*

I've heard there are 2 different pad compounds on OEM front brakes for the TTRS? The dealer quoted $550 for a set of front pads. The OEMplus.com site has them for $103.00? Why the price difference?


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## Poverty (Feb 17, 2012)

lol, dealers arent called stealers for no reason mate.


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## bluesun68 (Feb 1, 2012)

eddiey said:


> I've heard there are 2 different pad compounds on OEM front brakes for the TTRS? The dealer quoted $550 for a set of front pads. The OEMplus.com site has them for $103.00? Why the price difference?


 Are you sure those are for the TT-RS and not the regular TT?


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## mageus (Sep 1, 2004)

bluesun68 said:


> Are you sure those are for the TT-RS and not the regular TT?


 +1. 

There are no $100 OEM TTRS pads. However, the pads are the same as 2010 STI (or CTS-V, camaro, etc). So, it's possible to find aftermarket pads that fit for


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## Poverty (Feb 17, 2012)

EBC pads are terrible


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## Marty (Jul 14, 2000)

I've had horrible experiences with EBC redstuff pads squealing and their customer service lacking in the past.:thumbdown:


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## tdi-bart (Feb 10, 2011)

ceramic brakes are not 100% PnP, no matter which model you got them from i believe. 

i think rs4 is the easiest to make fit (all you need is a spacer?) here is a setup for $5k http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-RS4-RS...ies&hash=item46049b774c&vxp=mtr#ht_1561wt_193 

rears i heard are a lot of work to change to ceramic


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## mageus (Sep 1, 2004)

Poverty said:


> EBC pads are terrible


 They're about the same as the oft-lauded HPS. In other words, fine for futzing around the town, but not made for the track (or even auto-x). I've never had problems with the YellowStuff, knowing their limitations. 

Problem is, there's no good hybrid street/track pad for the TTRS. It gets to speed so quick and has such potent braking. Any pad that doesn't squeel like a stuck pig will just liquify with those calipers at high speed. The best option is separate street/track pads. 

Jeremy has the right idea with the Carbotechs. I'll go that route (and upgrade to HP12s) next time around.


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## Poverty (Feb 17, 2012)

Mintex 1155.


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## J662 (Dec 8, 2011)

TTracing said:


> Driving with the Carbotech 1521(front) for 3 weeks,now.
> 
> They,definitely,don't have the OEM grasp and power.
> For everyday driving, they're ok, however...
> ...


 I thought the Carbotechs were suppose to be good pads for racing?


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## mageus (Sep 1, 2004)

J662 said:


> I thought the Carbotechs were suppose to be good pads for racing


 They are. The 1521s ('Bobcats') are their street compound. The XPs are the track pads. The AX6 is supposed to be for AutoX. 

That's why Jeremy is going with that combo. Use the 1521s for the street, then swap out for the XP12s without having to re-bed the pads in between.


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## J662 (Dec 8, 2011)

mageus said:


> They are. The 1521s ('Bobcats') are their street compound. The XPs are the track pads. The AX6 is supposed to be for AutoX.
> 
> That's why Jeremy is going with that combo. Use the 1521s for the street, then swap out for the XP12s without having to re-bed the pads in between.


 
Got it.thanks for explaining. 


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## bigstu (Mar 6, 2008)

I thought I'd bump this thread. I'm in the market for a set of track pads, anyone have updates on what your using and how its working for you? 

Jeremy, I know you are using the Carbotech XP12s in front and XP8s in back. Hows that setup working for you? Are you leaving the XP8s in the back all the time and just swapping the fronts for track use? Are the XP8s OK on the street? 

996Cab, I've seen your setup and am considering that route also. How daily-able is the setup you recommend earlier in this thread comprising of PFR fronts and Pagid rears? Is that strictly a track setup for you, or do you run it on the street at all? I plan on going with the Endless RF60 brake fluid, its expensive...but sounds awesome! 

Thanks for any info you can provide!! :beer::beer:


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## J662 (Dec 8, 2011)

Stu,

Here's some more good info that I received from 996 cab. 996 hope you don't mind me sharing:

"Another addition is to swap out the rear pads for PFC01 - p/n 0340.01.15.44. This will move more brake bias rearward and thus help stop the car quicker.

Am not sure PFC08 is made for the stock calipers - keep in mind that I have upgraded front calipers hence I can get PFC08. If you cannot get PFC08, try for PFC05 or PFC01 - assuming you want to track the car on regular basiss...else look for PFC38 - these are the higher spec street/track pad."


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## - Jeremy - (Feb 23, 2006)

bigstu said:


> I thought I'd bump this thread. I'm in the market for a set of track pads, anyone have updates on what your using and how its working for you?
> 
> Jeremy, I know you are using the Carbotech XP12s in front and XP8s in back. Hows that setup working for you? Are you leaving the XP8s in the back all the time and just swapping the fronts for track use? Are the XP8s OK on the street?
> 
> ...


I bought the Bobcats thinking I would just swap them in/out between track days. Well, I did it once and then just left the XP12's and 8's in all the time. I haven't used the Bobcats in many months so I can't recall their braking characteristics. But I think they were acceptable for street use. But maybe not as much initial bite as TTracing mentioned. They're just as strong, but they have more modulation. I'll swap them back in for winter.

Anyway, the XP12's and 8's are freakin' awesome. Super bite, modulation and power but they're loud as hell on the street. Personally, I don't mind so I drive everywhere screaming like a banshee. They're brutally loud but they work like magic. They're lasting a lot longer than I anticipated, too. I've got around 75 laps on the Nürburgring and 80 on Hockenheim and they've probably got 60-70% life left in them. It only takes a lap or so to get them re-bedded and I can drive as many back to back laps as I want without much fade. The only fade I get is a result of my brake fluid (RBF600) which I need to change anyway. It's getting old.

The stock TTRS rotors, however, suck donkey nuts. The drilled pattern just cakes up and streaks random pad compound around the rotors. They "chunk up" very easily and cause a lot of vibration when you really stand on the pedal. They still stop your ass fast, but it's not smooth.

In the future, I'd like to swap out the rotors for something like RacingBrake.com or even increase the size of the rear. I like the Carbotech's so I'll probably stick with them but I'd also get better fluid like the stuff that 996cab recommends.

- Jeremy -


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## 996cab (Aug 13, 2011)

bigstu said:


> I thought I'd bump this thread. I'm in the market for a set of track pads, anyone have updates on what your using and how its working for you?
> 
> Jeremy, I know you are using the Carbotech XP12s in front and XP8s in back. Hows that setup working for you? Are you leaving the XP8s in the back all the time and just swapping the fronts for track use? Are the XP8s OK on the street?
> 
> ...


Hi bigstu,
responses are as follows...;

Performance Friction do a 01 compound pad for the rears, p/n 0340.01.15.44, which J662 has kindly posted. I have these to go on next...I still got 10mm of compound (new is 12mm) on the RS-19 left and that is after 24k miles and 15 trackdays (over 250 laps done). The RS-19 on the rears would easily last 150k miles...! So these are pads for life...!!! 

The PFC01 on the rears - being more aggressive than the RS-19 -I reckon would last 100k miles and they were £100 cheaper than the RS-19...!

For the fronts, I would get your oem pad shape or dimensions and send Performance Friction a query, you may find that they have a similar pad in their range that is a perfect fit...that is what I did to find the rear PFC01 pad...I also had to do the same to Pagid to find an RS-29 pad for my RS6 calipers however I opted to go with PFC01.

Personally, I would go for the following combo on OEM rotors...;

1) PFC08 fronts / PFC01 rears
2) PFC08 fronts / RS-19 rears
3) XP12 fronts / RS-19 rears
4) XP12 fronts / PFC01 rears

The main advantage with PFC pads are that they are pre-bedded in thus you just fit and use straight off...trust me I did that with the PFC01 on the fronts...fitted them and straight on to the track and they have worked with no issues for the past 23k miles...including yesterday when I was on track doing time trials.

Noise wise...they are very acceptable when noisiest - up to 3k miles then they soften for 5k and that is it...no noise till pads die I guess...I am down to 4mm all round on the fronts and no noise...works well from cold and stops very well when warmed up.

The only criticism I have of the PFC01 compound are as follows...;
1) Too strong even for regular track use though they stop like 'Hand of God'...these are true race pads.
2) They are hard on rotors so I say you will replace rotors at same time as pad dies...though we are talking over 25k miles per reaplcement and in my case that includes tracking once a month.
3) They dust too much...I hate the dust..! 

I have PFC08 going on next to compliment the PFC01 for the rears. 

The PFC08 are reportedly not as strong as the PFC01 and produce less dust and are kinder to rotors...sounds about perfect for me...Ohh, they are also cheaper...£410 as opposed to £460...'Bliss...!'


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## bigstu (Mar 6, 2008)

Thank you all very much for you input!! :beer::beer::beer:


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## tilmonr (Jun 28, 2012)

*Japanese pads*

Has anyone tried the Endless CC-A pads?


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## arnemeyer (Jan 9, 2012)

996cab said:


> J662,
> I will do the following...
> 
> *Fluid - ENDLESS RF650*
> This is sold in 0.5ltr bottles and you will need 5x to fully and 'properly' flush out old for this. The key advantage with this fluid I found is that it is stable and progressive in use. Most other fluids are digressive in use.


 
So you're saying a full "proper" flush with any fluid is 2.5 liters? With Endless or Castrol that would be super expensive, obviously less with others (~$30 for ATE). 

I couldn't really find a good guideline on a good actual or needed amount of fluid to flush/swap.


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## MSS Automotive (Mar 20, 2013)

arnemeyer said:


> So you're saying a full "proper" flush with any fluid is 2.5 liters? With Endless or Castrol that would be super expensive, obviously less with others (~$30 for ATE).
> 
> I couldn't really find a good guideline on a good actual or needed amount of fluid to flush/swap.


 Agreed on the expense and now that I have more experience I can give more info...;
- we flushed out the ATE Blue with ENDLESS RF650 and used only 3x 0.5ltr cans thus 1.5ltr used not the 2.5ltr reported. I got that info incorrect. 

- since changing to the ENDLESS RF650 at the beginning of 2012, I have *NOT* topped up; flushed; bleed nor the brakes...no need and I have been on track at least 20 times since with over 400 laps completed...this is over 15-mths now and counting...

So, in my experience the ENDLESS RF650 may be an initial expense however as a brake fluid it is simply a ‘_fit & forget_’ exercise. 


The ATE Blue needed attention after 6 trackdays and even then it was no use after repeated flush out of the system hence I moved over to ENDLESS RF650 - the initial expense was a nose bleed however am glad I spent the cash. I have still got 3x 0.5ltr cans sat on the shelf.


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