# Need oil in my MKV



## ITGREVERSED (Sep 18, 2008)

So I got an oil pressure warning in my 40k mile GTI and come to find out that I need oil, looks bone dry in there. Im surprised because its just about on the date that it needs to go in for a change so im aggravated because I didnt think I needed to check it regularly yet. In any case I am going to go out and get some synthetic oil tomorrow until I take it in for its oil change this week. What do you guys recommend? 

Thanks, Sal


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## AudiJunkie (Jun 19, 2009)

I recommend not letting it run low again, as well as changing it more often. Running low damages the oil and the FSI engine, as it accelerates cam wear.

The Mobil 1 HIGH MILES line of oils is looking pretty good. I suggest starting with the 10w-30 HM, but you didn't say anything about what climate you live in. 

You should do your own changes. Change on a time schedule and adjust the oil visc you use for the seasons...like summer/winter or summer/fall/winter. 3x a year is good if you don't exceed 15k total. 

You can reuse your filter for a full year with the new oil, just drain it out when you change the oil and pop it back in. 3 5q jugs a year and you are set. 

I'd consider a piston soak if you can handle it and find my instructions. 

Some 2-cycle oil in your gas at 500:1 is a big plus. 3oz per 10g, a little extra the first time. That'll help the consumption and do some other good stuff too. 

lmk if you have any questions.


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## AudiJunkie (Jun 19, 2009)

A good way to approach consumption is to use a predictive method. Reset the odo w/full oil and check it 500 miles later. Figure out about how many miles it takes to get 1/2q low and make that your target mileage and amount. Be it 500, 600, or 1000 miles for a 1/2q, just reset your odo when you fill it and recheck it however many miles later.


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*2 cycle oil*



AudiJunkie said:


> I recommend not letting it run low again, as well as changing it more often. Running low damages the oil and the FSI engine, as it accelerates cam wear.
> 
> The Mobil 1 HIGH MILES line of oils is looking pretty good. I suggest starting with the 10w-30 HM, but you didn't say anything about what climate you live in.
> 
> ...


what good stuff will it do beside possibly toast the cat?


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## AudiJunkie (Jun 19, 2009)

You tell me, since you know it'll toast the cat, you must know a lot about it.


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

AudiJunkie said:


> You tell me, since you know it'll toast the cat, you must know a lot about it.


you're the one who claims to know everything, not me. i asked a question:what::what::what::what:


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## Stormtrooper23 (Jan 26, 2009)

*Excessive oil consumption*

I have a 08 GTI MKV and I just hit 21,500 miles. I saw that the car was using a lot of oil so I took it into the dealer. We did a oil consumption test and they came to the conclusion the car will use 1.5 quarts of oil every 1,000 miles. Is this normal?


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## AudiJunkie (Jun 19, 2009)

1q/1000mi is excessive, dealer may say otherwise. Did you have it from new? Letting the level drop too far can cause more consumption. You can try the M1 10w-40 HiMiles if it's not too cold there. 10w-30 HM otherwise or a mix with the 5w-30. You can top it with the thicker 10w-40 HM.

This is what I use in the gas, 3oz/10G, every time. A great fuel additive for $0.25c. 

http://www.pennzoil.com/#/engine-oi...cle-outboard-engine-oil-extended-life-formula


PENNZOIL MARINE® XLF OUTBOARD TWO-CYCLE OIL NMMA Certified TC-W3® PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
PENNZOIL MARINE® XLF OUTBOARD TWO-CYCLE OIL is a premium “Synthetic Blend” certified by the National Marine Manufacturer's Association (NMMA) as an approved NMMA TC-W® lubricant and is specifically designed for exceptional performance in marine applications.
PENNZOIL MARINE® XLF OUTBOARD TWO-CYCLE OIL is a synthetic blend product formulated for excellent protection of new engines and to provide additional protection for older engines.
PENNZOIL MARINE® XLF OUTBOARD TWO-CYCLE OIL contains only ashless components which helps prevent any lubricant related preignition and spark plug fouling. The ashless additives also help protect against piston and combustion chamber deposits, rust, and corrosion. It’s “anti-gel” properties help resist gel formation due to water or other contamination. The special base stocks used resist piston and cylinder wall scuffing. APPLICATION
PENNZOIL MARINE® XLF OUTBOARD TWO-CYCLE OIL was developed for additonal protection of new engines but also to provide protection for engines that see high use or have been in service for several years. PENNZOIL MARINE® XLF is formulated to a higher lubricity limit than the NMMA AF-27 lubricity test to provide excellen protection against piston scuffing and reduced wear.
PENNZOIL MARINE® XLF OUTBOARD TWO-CYCLE OIL mixes easily with gasoline, and is dyed blue to allow for easy detection. Follow engine manufacturer's recommended fuel/oil ratio for premix systems. It is also recommeded for oil injection systems. Meets the egnein warranty requirements for Johnson/Evirude/OMC, Mercury Marine, Yamaha, Suzuki, Nissan, For/US Marine, Mariner and all others requiring TC-W3®
PENNZOIL MARINE® XLF OUTBOARD TWO-CYCLE OIL may also be used in other applications calling for NMMA TC-W®, TC-WII®, or TC-W3® approved oils. BENEFITS Synthetic Blend for high performance applications Maximum additive treatment, including increased detergency over the TC-W3® formulation. Helps protects engines against failures due to scuffing, ring sticking, port deposits, bearing failures and plug fouling Exceeds NFPA Code 30 Class IIIB liquids flash point limits. Flash point exceeds 200°F and requires no special warehousing NMMA TC-W3® certified. Exceeds warranty requirements for all outboard engine manufacturers Keeps you engine running clean Guards against harmful deposits Protects against piston scuffing


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*snake oil*



AudiJunkie said:


> 1q/1000mi is excessive, dealer may say otherwise. Did you have it from new? Letting the level drop too far can cause more consumption. You can try the M1 10w-40 HiMiles if it's not too cold there. 10w-30 HM otherwise or a mix with the 5w-30. You can top it with the thicker 10w-40 HM.
> 
> This is what I use in the gas, 3oz/10G, every time. A great fuel additive for $0.25c.
> 
> ...


did you ever work for a traveling show?


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## onewiper (Aug 29, 2002)

> Letting the level drop too far can cause more consumption


I assume you have concrete evidence for this. I have read your threads and you are a moron, you should stop misleading people on these forums.


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## AudiJunkie (Jun 19, 2009)

My statement is "concrete proof", until you demonstrate otherwise. 

Pretty easy for most of us to understand how driving 1000s of miles on low to almost no oil may accelerate engine wear, allowing more blowby and therefore consumption. Tailpipe smoke is the tell for this situation. Another contributor would be overloading and over revving the engine when cold.

Just because you've never heard of, or do not understand, these basic concepts doesn't mean they don't exist. :facepalm:


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## BHB (Oct 26, 2004)

the 2.0T has well documented oil consumption issues. Mine drops between 1-2 qts every 1k miles.


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*guess i'm lucky*



BHB said:


> the 2.0T has well documented oil consumption issues. Mine drops between 1-2 qts every 1k miles.


i have an 06 2.0 jetta, change the oil between 4-5k miles and use less than 1/2 qt. between changes, none in the first 3.5k. i've used m1 0w-40 and more recently total nf 5w-40 or fuchs 5w-40 , 5w-30. the 5w30 did increase the consumption to a quart between changes, but i've got 10 liters left and will go back to 5w-40 when its gone.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

AudiJunkie said:


> This is what I use in the gas, 3oz/10G, every time. A great fuel additive for $0.25c.
> 
> http://www.pennzoil.com/#/engine-oi...cle-outboard-engine-oil-extended-life-formula
> 
> ...


Can't wait until he pulls his spark plugs from his Tiguan.

no... spark plugs from a Honda Accord do not count, since it's not direct injection.


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*don't worry*

he'll be fine because it's concrete (his word), if not we'll never hear. he's never been wrong?


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

AudiJunkie said:


> lol, whatever you guys say.:thumbdown: It's the first time you clowns ever heard of this stuff, but you already know everything about it. That's pretty comical.
> 
> 
> :facepalm:


Like I said...those plugs are from a Honda accord. It's not direct injection


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*apples and oranges again*



AudiJunkie said:


> lol, whatever you guys say.:thumbdown: It's the first time you clowns ever heard of this stuff, but you already know everything about it. That's pretty comical.
> 
> 
> :facepalm:


you're the one who worked in a travelling show:laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...n=140631&Words=accord&Search=true#Post2052819



Audi Junkie said:


> These were my plugs after 50k in the Accord, all on 2C.


Like I said twice before, Accord engines are not DI.

PLus, when you look at it.... the 1st from the left, looks fine. What's with the oily deposits on the ground electrode for the remaining 3? It's not an engine issue, otherwise, the entire plug exposed to the combustion chamber would be coated in oil. some lubricant property in the fuel isn't burning correctly.


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## AudiJunkie (Jun 19, 2009)

It's not oily, just shiny. 

Let's back up to your explanation of how DI is different in regards to plug deposits. 

Bearing in mind, the TCW-3 product is completely ashless and formulated to keep intake systems clean, using the very same additives already in gasoline. Considering how important fuel quality is in DI, your explanation should be entertaining.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

AudiJunkie said:


> It's not oily, just shiny.
> 
> Let's back up to your explanation of how DI is different in regards to plug deposits.
> 
> Bearing in mind, the TCW-3 product is completely ashless and formulated to keep intake systems clean, using the very same additives already in gasoline. Considering how important fuel quality is in DI, your explanation should be entertaining.


DI deposits are throughout the plug is a lot different than a multiport injection engine, especially running US fuel. No one on BITOG has pulled and posted their plugs after running 500:1 mix of TC-W3, even RI_RS4 whom, on many forums, you claimed that he recommends in on FSI engine. In short, DI plugs? Other than the ground electrode showing normal gray to tan (dull) build up, the rest of the plug is filled with carbon soot. Thank fuel injector position on most direct injection engines (exception was the Honda Stream direct injetion engine). You would never know this info because you don't have enough experience on a direct injection engine. no one has posted pics for you to save in your photobucket account

Just "shiny" ground deposits on 3 out of 4 plugs isn't encouraging news that TC-W3 as concrete evidence that it works. You only have 1 spark plug that looks good.

and... in close to 100,000 miles.... I have already been through 4 sets of plugs, with 90% running fuel that has PEA.


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## mk5RABt (Jul 28, 2008)

low or no oil...can cause devastating damage to an FSI engine...the high pressure fuel pump is cam driven...and the is no roller...all thats there is oil and when there is no oil we are talking metal to metal...basically it's expensive...you NEED to check your oil every time you get gas...and put oil in if it's not between max and fill on the stick...FSI's consume oil. dont let it get too excessive.


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## AudiJunkie (Jun 19, 2009)

BsickPassat said:


> DI deposits are throughout the plug is a lot different than a multiport injection engine, especially running US fuel.


DI being "different" isn't causation. 

What's your point, that I'll have deposits because of 2c? Ok, your point is made, I'm far from convinced. If you described the process in detail of 2C creating deposits when it is formulated to do the opposite, it'd be easier to respond. Right now you're looking to prove a negative. 


ftr- RI_RS4 claims LESS deposits with 2C oil. Why don't you research his threads and give him a lecture?


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## AudiJunkie (Jun 19, 2009)

I'm still waiting for the "toasted cat" data. :facepalm:


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

AudiJunkie said:


> I'm still waiting for the "toasted cat" data. :facepalm:


it's not your cat thats toasted


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

AudiJunkie said:


> DI being "different" isn't causation.
> 
> What's your point, that I'll have deposits because of 2c? Ok, your point is made, I'm far from convinced. If you described the process in detail of 2C creating deposits when it is formulated to do the opposite, it'd be easier to respond. Right now you're looking to prove a negative.
> 
> ...


Why don't you provide me with a link to him saying it?

RI_RS4 claims LESS deposits with the RLI 5w40 oil, which he did have an active participation with its development.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

AudiJunkie says RI_RS4 posted it in his RLI thread or the big 2c thread.

RLI thread = no mentions.

Search BITOG in Fuels and Fuel Additives: Gasoline and Diesel forum and anything RI_RS4 has posted. Nothing in any 2C or TCW3 thread.

He has used: Link to thread



> Quite a few Audi RS4 owners have been using *FP60, FP Plus, or RLI BioPlus* in these engines with good results, under Terry Dyson's guidance. *I've used all three in mine and currently have 30K miles on my engine, 15K of which was with BioPlus. *When I pulled my plugs at 25K miles there were no signs of any combustion chamber issues. Those plugs could have easily gone to 50K miles.


In his lubricity thread, no mention of using 2C oil as an additive.

Searching the entire forum, RI_RS4 has not posted anything in any 2C related thread.

Concrete evidence of RI_RS4 recommending 2C oil? Debunked.

RI_RS4 does recommend the 1-2 punch of RLI Biosyn 5w40 and RLI Bio-Plus Injector Cleaner Gas Conditioner
to minimize IVD

Also, since RI_RS4 follows the advice of Terry Dyson (which you're not), Terry does not recommend 2C as an fuel additive. What does he recommend? the RLI Bio-Plus Injector Cleaner Gas Conditioner


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## AudiJunkie (Jun 19, 2009)

Sorry, it's not my job to educate every nay-sayer on this site. Either you take my word for it or go suck it, that's the choices. Still waiting to hear the physical mechanism that produces more deposits with an ashless additive formulated specifically to reduce deposits. 

If you wanted to say that Lucas UCL or STP gas treatment with "jet fuel" (lol) is crap, I'm open to that. 2C is *made* to be combusted in an ICE and meets rigourous TCW-3 test specs. Read the product description.

I wouldn't go as far as you to speak for Terry in regards to 2C oil. I'm sure he has both more options and a bigger budget for fuel treatment than I do. I will ask him about 2C in 4C fuels next time I talk to him.

Since you're reading up at BitOG, you should be aware of the threads on 2 cycle...??? It's a pretty well-established practice, but since the knowledge base here is so limited I have to start from scratch with every new subject.


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## AudiJunkie (Jun 19, 2009)

The first thread is 14 pages long, if you get bored of that, here are two more....enjoy.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1573591&page=all

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2039984#Post2039984

"In the thread "Most wear occurs at startup," Audi Junkie suggested that use of 2-cycle oil as a fuel additive may help reduce cold start and warm up wear. He also noted some other good qualities of 2-cycle oil that could be beneficial as a fuel additive for 4-cycle engines:..."


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

TCW-3 is a performance specification. A candidate 2-stroke oil has to meet NMMA requirements in order to be certified. No where in the specification does it dictate composition requirements

Also, why is 3 out of 4 spark plugs have shiny deposits covering 1/2 of the ground electrode? The rest of the ground electrode has normal deposits.

How I know Terry recommends the RLI stuff? Paying customer.


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## AudiJunkie (Jun 19, 2009)

Again, it's not a deposit. The surface itself is shiny.

I'm not sure what you claim the problem is.


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*not sure*



AudiJunkie said:


> Again, it's not a deposit. The surface itself is shiny.
> 
> I'm not sure what you claim the problem is.


why anyone would pay attention to you. even the simplest is complicated when you address it.


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## BHB (Oct 26, 2004)

Folks - 

back and forth debate is encouraged here, but personal attacks are not allowed. 

Please keep this civil.


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## AudiJunkie (Jun 19, 2009)

Whoops, I missed pasting the original 14 page 2C thread...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1107478&page=1

...and some RLI BIOPLUS banter...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2019096#Post2019096


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## rickjaguar (Apr 23, 2009)

ITGREVERSED said:


> So I got an oil pressure warning in my 40k mile GTI and come to find out that I need oil, looks bone dry in there. Im surprised because its just about on the date that it needs to go in for a change so im aggravated because I didnt think I needed to check it regularly yet. In any case I am going to go out and get some synthetic oil tomorrow until I take it in for its oil change this week. What do you guys recommend?
> 
> Thanks, Sal


Umm, i'm not going to tell you what brand of oil to use, everyone has their reasons and favorites. But Some oils do burn more easily than others. I personally noticed the Castrol 5W40 Syntec burned about 1L in 1500km. This was on my 1st OCI on this car and it also shocked the hell outta me! 
I've used LubroMoly Synthoil 5W40 for 6 OCIs now and average 1L in 7000km.
My last OCI i used Total Quartz 5W40 and it was 1L in 7000km.
I've used the German Castrol 0W30 and it was i think 1L in about 6000ish kms.
Yes you should check your oil often.. every 2 weeks at least.


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## AudiJunkie (Jun 19, 2009)

Changing to a different formula of oil can increase consumption, temporarily.


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*squeeky*



AudiJunkie said:


> lol, whatever you guys say.:thumbdown: It's the first time you clowns ever heard of this stuff, but you already know everything about it. That's pretty comical.
> 
> 
> :facepalm:


 did that proceedure race your voice?


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## saaber2 (Jul 15, 2008)

gmikel, 

It looks like audi junkie has been banned. Now that he is gone, let's get this oil subforum back to being civil and focused on "discovering the truth" rather than trading insults or "I am right and you are wrong" type of posts. Are you game for that? 

There are some really good posters who have stopped coming here because of this fighting BS. It would be great to see them come back so we can all help each other learn. What do you think? 

Thanks!


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

I have a feeling that Someone reported that inappropriate photo he posted which helped lead to his banning. 

Enjoy the peace. He'll be back with another username


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*enjoy it while it last*



saaber2 said:


> gmikel,
> 
> It looks like audi junkie has been banned. Now that he is gone, let's get this oil subforum back to being civil and focused on "discovering the truth" rather than trading insults or "I am right and you are wrong" type of posts. Are you game for that?
> 
> ...


 :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*unfortunately you're right*



BsickPassat said:


> I have a feeling that Someone reported that inappropriate photo he posted which helped lead to his banning.
> 
> Enjoy the peace. He'll be back with another username


 :facepalm:


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

AudiSportA4 is back :facepalm:


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