# Upgrade Sub in my Audi S3 B&O system Hertz sub and Audison amp video walk through



## Trade-N-Games (Feb 22, 2008)

I finally replaced the sub in my 2015 Audi S3. I have the B&O system. The overall sound is nice but the sub was the weakest point in the system to me. This is a video I made of me doing the install over the weekend. 
I did not think it was worth the time just replacing the stock sub with a freeair 10 for the results i wanted. I was Looking for impact and clean sound. The weirdest part of the install was that the sub had 2 inputs going into it. When the fader was put all the way left or right one side had a lot less voltage and that baffled me. I guess the stock sub is a dual voice coil receiving stereo signal. I show clearly in video how to grab signal. Then I used a line converter to RCA and combined left and right into Auidson mono sub amp. 
The stock hole in rear deck had zero chance of fitting the Hertz sub i picked. Actually almost any 10 will have to have a raised trim ring to fit it without cutting up sheet metal. I still need to build enclosed box for sub. It has some massive bass now and will only get better with proper box built. Hope the video helps others decide to take on the project.


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## Brancky (Aug 27, 2016)

Great walk through! Thanks!


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## Torkey (Feb 8, 2006)

Excellent video thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## radbaldguy (Feb 23, 2016)

Thanks for the walk through. My days of building big stereos is behind me and I feel like the trunk is already cramped, so I don't really want to put a box back there. I've read that the B&O sub is a 10" but I'm skeptical. I tried (not very hard) to measure the hole the other night from the trunk side and it seemed closer to an 8" hole. I think I'd be interested in replacing the factory sub with an after market free air sub that has a better frequency response. But, I'd like to have some guidance from someone who's torn into the back panel area first so I don't get stuck with things torn apart and a sub that won't fit. How big of a sub do you think you could have fit into the factory hole in the rear deck without building a drop-down shelf?


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## Trade-N-Games (Feb 22, 2008)

The stock sub might be called a 10 but its not round. Its more like an 8 inch. I have seen people place a 10 back there from the top side, it for the most part takes 2, 3/4inch trim rings to widen the hole then the sub still fits under rear deck and the taper of the sub allows it to fit. It will need to be shallow mount just to fit between window and deck. An 8 would still most likely be better than the stock. 2 problems you will encounter. First there is no way to seal off the trunk from the rear deck. the arm for the trunk comes up into that area. So air leaking a lot right next to the sub will affect the sub, same as stock. Second is the factory amp has very little power. And if you watch the video there is actually a left and right input into the sub on the B&O system. When the system is faded left and right there is major difference in voltage going to sub. I would not run just one side or wire them together this most likely would mess up factory amp. So a dual 4ohm voice coil would be best. This is also why i did line converter and combined the signal to drive the mono amp, no issues with amp seeing weird ohms. I have starting building the box this week and will follow up this video. I was looking for a lot more bass than stock and free air will not cut it. Its easy to tear into the rear hope my video helps you.


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## radbaldguy (Feb 23, 2016)

Trade-N-Games said:


> Its easy to tear into the rear hope my video helps you.


Very much, thank you! This is the best walk through I've seen so far. Is there much room to drop a sub in from the top or am I going to run into problems if I don't go with a shallow-mount (i.e., is the space between the glass and the rear deck too short to maneuver a sub to get it to drop in)? Also, would you be willing to measure impedance on each of the channels of your old B&O sub and report back? Thanks for your help pioneering this for us and showing us the way!


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## Trade-N-Games (Feb 22, 2008)

Not the most exciting box design. This sub with this much power really needed the sub to be sealed. I used easy to remove turn buckles and the box pulls up nice and tight to the rear underside of the deck. So its no problem to take in and out when i might need to haul something bigger around or get to my spare tire, had to use it a few weeks ago. The output is amazing. I will mess with a different design for the sub box over winter most likely, just had to get something done.


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## 949 (Mar 11, 2008)

awesome! I always enjoy seeing if someone has done something to upgrade their audi. so far your the first to make a video. 

I have done research myself and have not attempted anything like you have. but I am happy to share what I have found. if you want to see if you can add an amp I have found something that MIGHT work. for me I wanted something with a plug and play setup and less obtrusive wiring as possible. so I found that audison might work. the compatibility list is limited and not updated but from their hq they say it might work. so youll need two parts.

audison bit DMI & audison bit ONE.

the DMI is to pnp a Y-section to the line-out.

the ONE will convert everything to preamp signals and you can then use RCA like you would normally with any aftermarket head unit to amps. 
these items will also be a remote on/off for the amp as well. makes things look like it belongs in there.



overall please make more upgrade videos to share. your doing a great service for us all who aren't able to test these procedures out for ourselves.

Thanks.

bit DMI:
at the bottom it has the tech layout. it will explain it better how things work.

http://www.audison.eu/download.php?...rev16A.PDF&name=bit_dmi_tech_sheet_tech_sheet


bit ONE:
http://www.audison.eu/download.php?...hSheet.pdf&name=bit_one_tech_sheet_tech_sheet


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## radbaldguy (Feb 23, 2016)

949 said:


> awesome! I always enjoy seeing if someone has done something to upgrade their audi. so far your the first to make a video.
> 
> I have done research myself and have not attempted anything like you have. but I am happy to share what I have found. if you want to see if you can add an amp I have found something that MIGHT work. for me I wanted something with a plug and play setup and less obtrusive wiring as possible. so I found that audison might work. the compatibility list is limited and not updated but from their hq they say it might work. so youll need two parts.
> 
> ...


My research indicates the MOST bridge on the 8V generation of A3/S3 is MOST150 and is encrypted such that MOST interfaces like the Audison Bit DMI are not compatible. Here's a thread on audiworld on the topic. I also looked at compatibility tables for other MOST interfaces (e.g., mobridge) and they do not offer compatible products. It looks like the only real option for complete integration would be line level signal aggregation.

Have you had a different experience or have you tried the solution you suggested? I think I've come around to the idea of doing a legit subwoofer upgrade, as opposed to a drop-in replacement, but I'd like to understand full system capabilities in case I want to do further upgrades in the future.


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## jerichoo (Jun 18, 2009)

Trade-N-Games said:


> The stock sub might be called a 10 but its not round. Its more like an 8 inch. I have seen people place a 10 back there from the top side, it for the most part takes 2, 3/4inch trim rings to widen the hole then the sub still fits under rear deck and the taper of the sub allows it to fit. It will need to be shallow mount just to fit between window and deck. An 8 would still most likely be better than the stock. 2 problems you will encounter. First there is no way to seal off the trunk from the rear deck. the arm for the trunk comes up into that area. So air leaking a lot right next to the sub will affect the sub, same as stock. Second is the factory amp has very little power. And if you watch the video there is actually a left and right input into the sub on the B&O system. When the system is faded left and right there is major difference in voltage going to sub. I would not run just one side or wire them together this most likely would mess up factory amp. So a dual 4ohm voice coil would be best. This is also why i did line converter and combined the signal to drive the mono amp, no issues with amp seeing weird ohms. I have starting building the box this week and will follow up this video. I was looking for a lot more bass than stock and free air will not cut it. Its easy to tear into the rear hope my video helps you.


Hi!

Thanks for the excellent write up...

I am looking into just replacing the sub with an 8 or a 10... some questions:

-Where have you seen a "replacement" for the A3 B&O sub and what were the results?

-You mention a DVC 4ohm sub to replace our oem DVC 8ohm sub, wouldnt that put more stress on the oem amp since inpendance is lower? How would you go about wiring a new sub?

I am not looking for much more output... only maybe a little more but much better sound quality...

Let me know and thank you. 

JC


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## Trade-N-Games (Feb 22, 2008)

You could buy a dual 8ohm sub and simple wire it up and the load seen by the amp would be the same. For best results enclosing the factory sub in a small box would offer best results. Anything freeair trying to use factory amp might not be improvement at all. Really powering up and aftermarket sub in some type of box is all that makes a diff. My system really rocks hard now. If You wire up sub wrong and factory amp goes out cause of it my bet is you looking at way more money than doing it my way.


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## jerichoo (Jun 18, 2009)

Thanks Trade...

I have been looking for DVC 8ohm subs but no luck... Do you know where I could find one?

or if I decide to install a Dual 4 ohm sub, could that mess the amp up?

JC


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## Trade-N-Games (Feb 22, 2008)

Since i Dont know what would mess up the amp thats why i played it safe with line level converter to sum the signal. Amp would be 100% fine this way and no worries. Hertz has sub dual 8ohm but the factory amp would most likely not even budge the speaker so you would have very little output. Like I said go for it with amp or at the least build some type of sealed box around the stock sub. It fairly flat, you could build a square box without top and then put a rubber seal around it and just wedge it up tight under stock sub to see how it sounds.


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## 949 (Mar 11, 2008)

I have seen something from JL Audio called the TwK and FiX.
these different units are supposed to strip the oem signals and allow then to be processed. I don't know if they work on the audi system but its another options that S3 owners can look into. 


from JLaudio.com:

http://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-processors-oem-integration

FIX-82 AND FIX-86 

OEM Integration


Turn OEM challenges into aftermarket dream systems with JL Audio OEM Integration products. 

Factory (OEM) head-units have evolved into fully integrated entertainment hubs, typically interconnected with supplementary vehicle controls, safety system displays and other critical vehicle functions. The days of “replacing the radio” are long-gone, and instead, we are required to work with the vehicle’s source unit. We saw this trend emerging over a decade ago, and we introduced the world’s first auto-correcting DSP OEM interface, the Cleansweep CL441dsp in 2004, establishing a new product category.

Since then, our commitment to creating advanced OEM integration products has only intensified. Today’s JL Audio FiX™ line of OEM Integration DSPs is incredibly advanced, and fully armed to deal with the challenges presented by today’s factory audio systems. FiX™ DSPs are purpose-engineered to connect to complex factory audio systems, without interfering with vehicle functionality, safety or reliability.

Equipped with a powerful 24-bit DSP, with proprietary programming and correction algorithms. FiX™ combines the functions of a powerful audio analyzer, line output converter, digital delay, signal-summing preamplifier and multiple 30-band equalizers. These functional blocks are programmed to measure multiple factory audio signals, level match them, correct any delay, sum them, and then equalize them for flat response. All of this happens automatically, with the press of a button. The results are clean, flat audio signals you can build your dream system around.

No other OEM integration product does what FiX™ can do. 



TWK-88 AND TWK-D8

System Tuning


Unleash the power of DSP to tune your system like never before!

Armed with a 24-bit digital signal processor, our TwK™ System Tuning DSPs deliver exceptional system tuning functionality and flexibility. Both TwK™ models feature eight channels of crystal-clear audio outputs. An unprocessed, optical (Toslink) digital output is also included, so you can expand a system with additional TwK™ DSPs. The included DRC-200 Digital Remote Controller adds additional control and status reporting capabilities from the driver’s seat.

To control the tuning horsepower of the TwK™ DSP, connect a PC via USB, running our TüN™ DSP Control Software. TüN’s intuitive Project Setup Tool provides you with simple, menu-based selections to choose from three Project Levels (Basic, Advanced and Expert), and multiple input and output configurations. Once set up, you have full access to a wide selection of EQ, Crossover, Delay and Level adjustments to precisely achieve your desired audio results

Whether you’re an audio beginner, passionate enthusiast or audiophile, TwK™ DSPs are built to put the power of system tuning in your hands!


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## P2WRTMR (Mar 13, 2011)

I haven't been on the forums in a while. I went down the same path as you with doing a larger deck mounted sub and then decided to do a false floor with a 12 instead. I learned something that after a few months finally made me stop wanting to pull my hair out. Let me ask you, does you car sometimes sound great and then sometimes the sub sounds out of phase?

Here are some pics when I did the deck sub. Dynamatted all the open holes on the sides and it never really sounded right. I also found the sub hanging off the deck actually killed trunk space lol.


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## 949 (Mar 11, 2008)

sounds like the stock sub amp is still controlling the phasing. also I read that the microphone for the handsfree will cause that too. the best way is to be able to cut the stock amp out completely and use aftermarket amps. that's why I am looking for alternatives to do a plug and play.


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## P2WRTMR (Mar 13, 2011)

949 said:


> sounds like the stock sub amp is still controlling the phasing. also I read that the microphone for the handsfree will cause that too. the best way is to be able to cut the stock amp out completely and use aftermarket amps. that's why I am looking for alternatives to do a plug and play.


unplugging the mic for noise cancelation fixed my phasing issue.











now I have a floor sub.


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## panderse (Jan 15, 2012)

*Lost B&O subwoofer signal*

I added a Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-12 powered subwoofer to my 2015 S3 last night. Your video was extremely helpful...only took about four hours for panel removals, wiring, install and button up, etc. I removed the B&O subwoofer and wired the subwoofer speaker signal into the "high" level input of the amp. Everything was working fine last, but this morning I seemed to have no signal from the subwoofer speaker inputs. I tested the sub/amp with input from a bench radio and it is working fine. I have very low voltage coming from the B&O sub speaker leads...approx .7 volts. I reset the MMI...no luck. Any thoughts? The B&O amp is powering everything else just fine.﻿

Update... After a few hours of contemplating, I decided to give VCDS a look... My subwoofers (both channels) had thrown fault codes for open circuits. I must have unplugged something while the system was turned on. I reset the fault codes and we're back in business...


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## jerichoo (Jun 18, 2009)

I am having the same problem as the poster above...



Its a 2017 Audi S3 with B&O sound system, and added a subwoofer with amplifier but when connecting on the high level outputs I get no sound as if the OEM amplifier is protecting itself... I then connect directly to the sub and there is sound now...

What could it be?

JC


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## panderse (Jan 15, 2012)

*Another Update*



panderse said:


> I added a Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-12 powered subwoofer to my 2015 S3 last night. Your video was extremely helpful...only took about four hours for panel removals, wiring, install and button up, etc. I removed the B&O subwoofer and wired the subwoofer speaker signal into the "high" level input of the amp. Everything was working fine last, but this morning I seemed to have no signal from the subwoofer speaker inputs. I tested the sub/amp with input from a bench radio and it is working fine. I have very low voltage coming from the B&O sub speaker leads...approx .7 volts. I reset the MMI...no luck. Any thoughts? The B&O amp is powering everything else just fine.﻿
> 
> Update... After a few hours of contemplating, I decided to give VCDS a look... My subwoofers (both channels) had thrown fault codes for open circuits. I must have unplugged something while the system was turned on. I reset the fault codes and we're back in business...


Clearing the fault codes was only temporary. The system would almost immediately detect "Open Circuit" on both subwoofer channels. The sub would continue to work until I turned the car off and back on, then no sub signal. On my multi-meter, the factory subwoofer would show 7.6 ohms between the positive and negative speaker leads on both channels. The Rockford Fosgate subwoofer amp would show an open circuit between the positive and negative leads. I'm not sure if a quality LOC or summer would show any resistance or not.

I concluded that installing 8ohm resistors between the + and - leads should show the factory amp that there is not an open circuit. I ran my theory by a car audio pro and he agreed it should work. I'm not an electrical engineer and don't know much about resistors, but I purchased two 8.2 ohm resistors from FRY's and installed them. They were showing 8.5 ohms on my meter, which is 1 ohm more than what was showing at the B&O sub, but I couldn't find any other resistors close enough. VCDS was now showing short to ground on one sub channel and the other channel was showing fine. After clearing codes a few times, both channels were showing short to ground. I think that the 8.4ohms (on my meter) is outside the tolerance level the system is looking for, but I'm just guessing.

Anyway, I re-soldered the factory sub connector back in and tapped a LOC from there. Re-installed the factory B&O sub and sent signal from the LOC to the Rockford Fosgate Amp. Everything is now working fine after multiple on/offs, etc. No codes showing in VCDS. This was not my originally desired outcome, but it works and it does sound so much better than stock sub alone.


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## radbaldguy (Feb 23, 2016)

panderse said:


> Clearing the fault codes was only temporary. The system would almost immediately detect "Open Circuit" on both subwoofer channels. The sub would continue to work until I turned the car off and back on, then no sub signal. On my multi-meter, the factory subwoofer would show 7.6 ohms between the positive and negative speaker leads on both channels. The Rockford Fosgate subwoofer amp would show an open circuit between the positive and negative leads. I'm not sure if a quality LOC or summer would show any resistance or not.
> 
> I concluded that installing 8ohm resistors between the + and - leads should show the factory amp that there is not an open circuit. I ran my theory by a car audio pro and he agreed it should work. I'm not an electrical engineer and don't know much about resistors, but I purchased two 8.2 ohm resistors from FRY's and installed them. They were showing 8.5 ohms on my meter, which is 1 ohm more than what was showing at the B&O sub, but I couldn't find any other resistors close enough. VCDS was now showing short to ground on one sub channel and the other channel was showing fine. After clearing codes a few times, both channels were showing short to ground. I think that the 8.4ohms (on my meter) is outside the tolerance level the system is looking for, but I'm just guessing.
> 
> Anyway, I re-soldered the factory sub connector back in and tapped a LOC from there. Re-installed the factory B&O sub and sent signal from the LOC to the Rockford Fosgate Amp. Everything is now working fine after multiple on/offs, etc. No codes showing in VCDS. This was not my originally desired outcome, but it works and it does sound so much better than stock sub alone.


Thanks for keeping us posted on your progress -- it's a bit disappointing that you had to leave the factory B&O sub connected to make it work but you've certainly saved other people a bit headache of trying to troubleshoot the issue. I was about to pull the trigger on a powered JL sub to do exactly what you did but now I'll probably rethink and may opt to try a LOC like the Audison referenced by OP.


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## Trade-N-Games (Feb 22, 2008)

So far I have has zero issues with mine. This is one reason I decided not to go direct into the amp. Using a High quality signal converter seems to have saved me some problems.


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## panderse (Jan 15, 2012)

Trade-N-Games said:


> So far I have has zero issues with mine. This is one reason I decided not to go direct into the amp. Using a High quality signal converter seems to have saved me some problems.


Which converter did you use?


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## Trade-N-Games (Feb 22, 2008)

panderse said:


> Which converter did you use?


Connection by Audison Connection SLI2 - 2 channel Line Output Convertor

http://www.connection.eu/index.php?link=accessories&view_c=9


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## P2WRTMR (Mar 13, 2011)

panderse said:


> Clearing the fault codes was only temporary. The system would almost immediately detect "Open Circuit" on both subwoofer channels. The sub would continue to work until I turned the car off and back on, then no sub signal. On my multi-meter, the factory subwoofer would show 7.6 ohms between the positive and negative speaker leads on both channels. The Rockford Fosgate subwoofer amp would show an open circuit between the positive and negative leads. I'm not sure if a quality LOC or summer would show any resistance or not.
> 
> I concluded that installing 8ohm resistors between the + and - leads should show the factory amp that there is not an open circuit. I ran my theory by a car audio pro and he agreed it should work. I'm not an electrical engineer and don't know much about resistors, but I purchased two 8.2 ohm resistors from FRY's and installed them. They were showing 8.5 ohms on my meter, which is 1 ohm more than what was showing at the B&O sub, but I couldn't find any other resistors close enough. VCDS was now showing short to ground on one sub channel and the other channel was showing fine. After clearing codes a few times, both channels were showing short to ground. I think that the 8.4ohms (on my meter) is outside the tolerance level the system is looking for, but I'm just guessing.
> 
> Anyway, I re-soldered the factory sub connector back in and tapped a LOC from there. Re-installed the factory B&O sub and sent signal from the LOC to the Rockford Fosgate Amp. Everything is now working fine after multiple on/offs, etc. No codes showing in VCDS. This was not my originally desired outcome, but it works and it does sound so much better than stock sub alone.


What I found to fix the problem was going with a AudioControl LC2i. After I installed that, it worked great.


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## jiannu (Jun 10, 2015)

949 said:


> I have seen something from JL Audio called the TwK and FiX.
> these different units are supposed to strip the oem signals and allow then to be processed. I don't know if they work on the audi system but its another options that S3 owners can look into.
> 
> 
> ...


I plan to get the JL Audio Hd 600/4 installed onto the oem B&O system and my installer recommended this when using factory head unit.


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## 949 (Mar 11, 2008)

hey guys, new item on the market that will give you a clean output with all the channels for any amp you want to install. 
it will delete your need to for the stock amp. 
its all plug and play and totally reverse-able.

its not an amp it self but you disconnect your amp and plug the cable directly to this unit and it creates a bridge for you amps with clean output. its freakn awesome.

well worth the price tag.

https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT860/zen-v.html

its called the zen-v.

The ZEN-V allows the seamless addition of aftermarket amplifiers into compatible vehicles, delivering audiophile-quality sound without compromising the vehicle’s factory fit, finish or features. 

Utilizing the same processing power as NAV-TV’s competition proven M650-GM, the ZEN-V produces a completely flat audio output without any factory time delay or equalization, eliminating the need for summing devices, an audio correction DSP or the removal of the factory audio compensation microphones. Installation of the interface requires no modification to the vehicle and is compatible with both amplified and non amplified factory systems[1]. Volume, Fade[3], Balance and Bass/Treble tone controls are retained through the factory radio and echo cancelation for the factory Bluetooth hands-free system is supported.

Utilizing a 128 bit floating point DSP and 192 kHz 32 bit DAC, the ZEN-V produces a 12 channel analog output with a S/N Ratio of 112dB. For vehicles with video playback capability, the ZEN-V supports 7.1 and 5.1 audio[2]. The unit provides a 500mA output for controlling aftermarket devices and, additionally, retains the factory equalizer.

For use with 3rd party digital sound processors[3], the ZEN-V includes a variable TOSlink digital output which may be used simultaneously with the analog outputs, or by itself. The variable digital output allows for the system volume to be controlled via the factory radio and steering wheel controls without the need to access any 3rd party controller.

The ZEN-V currently supports the following vehicle infotainment platforms:

Audi with MIB2

Porsche with PCM4.0 & PCM4.1

Bentley with MIB2

For ease of use, the ZEN-V is configurable through dip switch settings. User selectable features of the ZEN-V are:

Optional time alignment to driver
Full scale audio or -12dB attenuation
7.1 downmix to stereo on TOSlink or TOSlink mapped to the front outputs
Loudness on or off
Vehicle selection for Audi, Porsche, Bentley or VW
Enables factory subwoofer control (Audi and Bentley)


ZEN-V COMPATIBILITY CHART
Model	Year Range	Version	Radio	Notes
Audi/A3	2015-2019	USA, Rest of World, Europe	AUDI MIB, MIB HS, MIB2	
Audi/A4	2017-2019	USA, Rest of World, Europe	AUDI MIB, MIB HS, MIB2	
Audi/A5	2017-2018	USA, Rest of World, Europe	AUDI MIB, MIB HS, MIB2	
Audi/A6	2017-2018	USA, Rest of World, Europe	AUDI MIB, MIB HS, MIB2	
Audi/A7	2017-2018	USA, Rest of World, Europe	AUDI MIB, MIB HS, MIB2	
Audi/A8	2017-2018	USA, Rest of World, Europe	AUDI MIB, MIB HS, MIB2	
Audi/Q3	2015-2017	USA, Rest of World, Europe	AUDI MIB, MIB HS, MIB2	
Audi/Q5	2018-2018	USA, Rest of World, Europe	AUDI MIB, MIB HS, MIB2	
Audi/Q7	2017-2019	USA, Rest of World, Europe	AUDI MIB, MIB HS, MIB2	
Audi/R8	2017-2019	USA, Rest of World, Europe	AUDI MIB, MIB HS, MIB2	
Audi/S3	2015-2018	USA, Rest of World, Europe	AUDI MIB, MIB HS, MIB2	
Audi/S4	2017-2018	USA, Rest of World, Europe	AUDI MIB, MIB HS, MIB2	
Audi/S5	2017-2018	USA, Rest of World, Europe	AUDI MIB, MIB HS, MIB2	
Audi/S6	2017-2018	USA, Rest of World, Europe	AUDI MIB, MIB HS, MIB2	
Audi/S7	2017-2018	USA, Rest of World, Europe	AUDI MIB, MIB HS, MIB2	
Audi/TT	2016-2019	USA, Rest of World, Europe	AUDI MIB, MIB HS, MIB2	
Bentley/Bentayga	2017-2017	USA, Rest of World, Europe	Bentayga MIB II	
Porsche/911 Carrera	2017-2019	USA, Rest of World, Europe	PCM4 / PCM4.1	
Porsche/Boxster	2017-2019	USA, Rest of World, Europe	PCM4 / PCM4.1	
Porsche/Cayman	2017-2018	USA, Rest of World, Europe	PCM4 / PCM4.1	
Porsche/Macan	2017-2019	USA, Rest of World, Europe	PCM4 / PCM4.1	
Porsche/Panamera	2017-2019	USA, Rest of World, Europe	PCM4 / PCM4.1	
Volkswagen/Any	2017-2019	USA, Rest of World, Europe	VW MIB, MIB2 with MOST plug











when its time to do the upgrade i plan on buying this. there are cheaper but more a hastle work around but it wont be clean i do believe in supporting businesses that come up with great mods.


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

*Thanks Trade-N-Games*

Just wanted to say thank you Trade-N-Games for your you tube video. It was incredibly helpful. I recently completed my subwoofer upgrade although I added a single 12" in a sealed enclosure after sound deadening the car. The wiring from the subwoofer you put on the video was a life saver. Also, I used a JlAudio LOC-22 for my line out converter which worked great. Just an FYI, it helps to set the gains of the amp and the gain of the LOC together as the 8volts or whatever it is you use, may not match up correctly with the amplifier. Basically, I had to get the voltage fairly close to what I wanted via voltage (RMS wattage for the sub), but below that level, and then dial in the gain for a more "specified" voltage increase.

Also, I am working on changing this as it seems editable, but the current crossovers on the 2015 Audi A3 8V B&O systems are set as follows: Highs 6K Hz, Mids 800 Hz, Lows 100 Hz 

Lastly, when dialing in the gain, I had the "SUBWOOFER" setting in MMI at max so that it could be lowered or raised depending on what I wanted.

Thanks Again


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

*2015 Audi A3 Premium Plus Quattro 2.0LT*

Thanks again to Trade-in-Games w/o whom's post would have made this task much more difficult. Also, all of my downloads from Audi (Repair and Service Manuals) from erwin. Take my advice if you are a DIYer. Go and spend $35 for a 24 hour access and download everything you can for the VIN of your car. https://erwin.audiusa.com/erwin/showHome.do It will save you a ton of money in mistakes and time working on your car. 

```
https://erwin.audiusa.com/erwin/showHome.do
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I installed a Dayton HO DVC 12" subwoofer in a sealed MDF enclosure. It was a prefab, but matched Bassbox 6 Pro almost exactly. Its powered by a Kappa K1000 set via voltage to a close 700 RMS watts. If your car has the B&O system, then your electrical output from the alternator, should be more than enough, but I already had a T-Spec V12 capacitor so I went ahead and included it. Capacitors are a great way to smooth out the power signal that your amplifier receives. Many say capacitors are pointless, but that is just untrue. Smoothing capacitors are used in circuits all of the time and an Audi's unibody frame is alot like a huge circuit board if you think about it. Anyways, as you can see, I also used a lot of sound deading material which I highly recommended. I used Noico, which is probably the best butyl based deadener you can get for the money. NVX is also a good affordable choice.


With the added subwoofer, the system sounds amazing. I plan on changing the crossover frequency settings from B&O to move a little more of the bass/ midbass over to the sub from the other woofers. The current B&O crossover settings are at 100hz, 800hz, and 6000hz. It took me about 2 1/2 days so it is a pretty intensive weekend project, but the rewards are outstanding. Please feel free to comment or PM me with any questions you might have.

Thanks Again Trade-in-Games.


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

*Thanks Trade-N-Games*

Thank you Trade-n-Games. Specifically for the description of the subwoofer signal wires. Its much easier to test them to make sure they are correct, then rediscover them. I updated my sub with an actual trunk enclosed sub. I decided that a sub box on the bottom of the rear shelf would take up just as much space as a subwoofer on the trunk floor. I added a 700RMS Dayton ho dvc 12" subwoofer with a K1000 infinity amplifier that received its signal from a JL Audio LOC-22. All in all I think it turned out awesome. The bass is perfect, but I ended up having to use about 800RMS as I would not go any lower then 2 volts on the signal gain and with the gain all the way down on the amp, I ended up with about 800watts. The LOC would go up to 8 volts, but even with that all the way down the amp was pushing well over 1000watts at 2 ohms (crazy).

I used Noico butyl based noise deadener in the entire trunk, lid, under rear seat, and rear shelf. The deadener definitly took some time to put in, but it was well worth it. There is no rattling outside of the car at all. I still have yet to do the doors, which due to the BO 8" front woofers, rattle like crazy on the passenger side. I am now looking to replace some of the B&O speakers since I believe I am loosing a great deal of detail in the midrange area. From research, specs, and looks, I think the 5 midranges are 3" faitalpro woofers. I will attempt to attach a picture of this drivers specs, if it lets me attach anything.

I have also attached pictures of my install reviews. I think a main problem with a trunk enclosure is how to hold the enclosure in place. My solution was to utilize a 2" wide, shorter ratcheting tie down w/ rubber bumpers on the front of the box. Aside for sum difficulty determining a good bumper distance, I think it worked out perfectly. The subwoofer doesn't budge from its position. I also allowed the BO subwoofer hole open to help pass as much moving air through the car as possible to avoid any issues with the subwoofer being in the trunk. I will also try to add pictures of the factory pancake if possible. Hopefully these pics insert, but if not here are the urls:

https://imgur.com/lWKY1wx
https://imgur.com/OLIbpVP
https://imgur.com/p7RkrVz
https://imgur.com/iTSlV8w
https://imgur.com/Baf65zk
https://imgur.com/Ghs3x70
https://imgur.com/nBa8Day

Thanks again TNG


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## 949 (Mar 11, 2008)

great to see some photos. do you have photos of the top of the deck removed and back seats removed too?


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## Trade-N-Games (Feb 22, 2008)

I am super glad people can use my video to help them still. I sold the S3 last year so no more updates. I might be getting a New Jetta GLI or Arteon and start a new build. Would love RS3 but to much $


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## radbaldguy (Feb 23, 2016)

Thanks for the updates, guys, I really appreciate the ongoing interest in upgrading the B&A system (particularly the sub).

949, thanks for linking the MOST bridge -- I had been waiting for one to come out that was compatible but I'm a little disappointed that there's not an option to keep the factory amp and pull out a clean signal. I'm not really interested yet in replacing the factory amp for the other channels but would love to have a clean out for the sub channel that doesn't go through the factory amp. 

jackal28, I'd be interested to know more about where you're seeing that you can edit the crossover settings for the factory B&O. Is this in VAG-COM or elsewhere (I don't think there's anything in the MMI menus). This is one of the reasons I haven't put in a better sub yet, so if I could solve it, I'd probably make the move.

I agree overall with the need for sound deadening -- even with the factory sub, it helps a LOT. I covered the rear deck and a few other spots and the improvement was immense. I'd love to do the door panels when I've got more time.


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