# DSG Shift rod 3dprinting



## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

http://www.shapeways.com/model/776382/3a90a281f5c73271b10c3d874c9e1cba?li=

I need to doublecheck measurements today then I can order some samples if samples are good to go then I will arrange for sale on shapeways. Price should be ~7-8 USD each.


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## Maitre Absolut (Aug 5, 2009)

whats this for


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

piece to fit on the bezel on a rolex submariner


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## VWAddict (Jun 12, 1999)

Maitre Absolut said:


> whats this for


...It's a "whim-wam" for winding up the sun.


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

lume dot?


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

yes lum dot


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## Mici (Aug 22, 2012)

Is that the oem plastic part which needs to be rotated 90 degrees to fit the newer style s-tronic knob? So thats how it looks... 

-Mici-


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## tp. (Nov 12, 2009)

this what happens when u twist it


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## LWNY (Jul 30, 2008)

Can't you print out RS3's complete set of ground effects?


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## Fellow Gaucho (Aug 3, 2011)

LWNY said:


> Can't you print out RS3's complete set of ground effects?


That'd need some big printers!


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## JPK_ (May 25, 2012)

Nice! I'm keen


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## Bull_D (May 28, 2012)

worked with a senior project design team from the local university this last year. they used a 3D printer for a couple parts on our project. pretty slick. curious about the type/durability of plastic used? what would be the chances of getting the part milled out of aluminum once the shape is perfected on 3D? i would be very keen on that, even if the part was $30-40. where are you going to get the sample for the 3D print? anyone have idea what is involved in swapping out the rod?


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

shapeways uses nylon for their models so it should be somewhat strong. I would need to test it first.

To make out of alum would cost $$$ low 50- 100 run would cost a grand plus.
and no grauntee can sell it all in 1 shot.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

(Sigh)

Okay, I'll try again... I can mill these out of hard plastic or aluminum and just charge for materials and shipping. All I need is dimensions.


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

so like 50 cents + shipping?


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

pm sent need to get one made


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## Bull_D (May 28, 2012)

tp.wannabe.s3 said:


> shapeways uses nylon for their models so it should be somewhat strong. I would need to test it first.
> 
> To make out of alum would cost $$$ low 50- 100 run would cost a grand plus.
> and no grauntee can sell it all in 1 shot.


50 sold at $20 bucks and you're covered! i'm sure you could get 50 to commit on a famiry basis :laugh: they ALWAYS work out. :facepalm: do you have any idea what the process is like to replace the whole rod, or are you intending this to be a cut and screw job? i have the s-tronic knob and am VERY keen to get it installed but not so keen on the cut and screw or heat job. have been trying to find the part number for the shift assembly off the S3, but no luck so far. i have the part diagram and will be in munich this next week. plan to see what i can find out at the local dealer.


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

Bull_D said:


> 50 sold at $20 bucks and you're covered! i'm sure you could get 50 to commit on a famiry basis :laugh: they ALWAYS work out. :facepalm: do you have any idea what the process is like to replace the whole rod, or are you intending this to be a cut and screw job? i have the s-tronic knob and am VERY keen to get it installed but not so keen on the cut and screw or heat job. have been trying to find the part number for the shift assembly off the S3, but no luck so far. i have the part diagram and will be in munich this next week. plan to see what i can find out at the local dealer.


I could make the whole replacement unit but its more time consuming for the buyer to install.

You need to get to a few screws under the car to get that shifter unit out. then need to figure way to open up the unit and fit the new stick in.

Best way is to cut and screw on.

I do have 2 other drawings for cutting and drilling. Its a jig you can use to cut the rod evenly and drill jig to drill into the center of the rod.


and that new shifter unit from s3 prolly cost $750+ hehe


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

sending misterjj the drawing tonight, he gona make it from a manual mill thats BOSSS


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## LWNY (Jul 30, 2008)

tp.wannabe.s3 said:


> shapeways uses nylon for their models so it should be somewhat strong. I would need to test it first.
> 
> To make out of alum would cost $$$ low 50- 100 run would cost a grand plus.
> and no grauntee can sell it all in 1 shot.


why so much? Your plastic thing should be good for lost wax casting. Everything could be made from clay.


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## x SMURF x (Sep 12, 2010)

tp. said:


> this what happens when u twist it



lets say mine is cut like that, but held together by not-straight screw and epoxy...how will this help me out? :banghead:


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## Mici (Aug 22, 2012)

I'm might be very intrested in getting one, and rather sooner than later.  I'll wait for my knob to arrive and then see how the thing looks like, if I need this part or can I just modify mine to work.

-Mici-


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

x SMURF x said:


> lets say mine is cut like that, but held together by not-straight screw and epoxy...how will this help me out? :banghead:


is the screw stright on the shifter rod itself? if so u can use this.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Opened drawing this morning. Damn foreigners and their funny metric parts.

O.D. is shown as 6mm. I can get 1/4" (6.35mm) stock easy. Not sure if I can find metric. Think 1/4" will work?


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

u guys have a lathe also? or just mill?

it needs to be 6mm to fit i believe


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

tp.wannabe.s3 said:


> u guys have a lathe also? or just mill?
> 
> it needs to be 6mm to fit i believe


Just a mill. But there's more than one way to work a rod.


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## BritBulldog (Feb 6, 2009)

MisterJJ said:


> Just a mill. But *there's more than one way to work a rod*.


That, my good sir, is what SHE said!

Boom.:laugh::laugh::laugh:

But seriously this looks awesome! I hope you guys can make soemthing work!


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Got started on my DSG shift rod build.

1/4" dia. Nylon rod:









Turned down to 6mm diameter using a vertical lathe (mill):









Getting very busy at work so don't know when I can finish the first sample.

Tp; Do you need the 2mm thread done or do you have a tap? What screw do you use?


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

good use of a mill kekek

i need it tapped. i dont have tap here.

i use grub screw
m2x.4


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Finally had a chance to work on this again. Just need to pick up a tap now. 










Nylon is a bit soft for machining. I might want to use a little harder plastic next time.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

MisterJJ said:


> Finally had a chance to work on this again. Just need to pick up a tap now.
> 
> Nylon is a bit soft for machining. I might want to use a little harder plastic next time.


 Nice work!


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## tp. (Nov 12, 2009)

looks good.


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## FiftyPence (Apr 25, 2004)

Please could you provide the dimensions of the piece you are making? I have ordered some 6mm nylon rod here in the UK and need to fashion the top piece of the rod for my vehicle but am unsure of the dimensions of the hole in the rod etc etc. I will then use an M2 x 8mm or 10mm grub screw to join the new piece and the original rod in the vehicle.

Here is an image showing the top of a rod from google image search. Please can you provide the dimensions for the areas in red?










*Background*
I twisted the original rod, fit the STronic knob and all was fine but the knob button went in and stayed in. This was no big deal because I was still able to select the gears so I was happy with it like that.

But then in pursuit of perfection I decided to remove the knob and file down the rod to get it to work properly with the knob button so it would all work in a factory manner. A little too much filing later and the top of the rod came off.

For the time being I've had to put a cable tie around what is left of the rod to keep it up in order to be able to select gears until I fix it.

I would really appreciate your advice concerning the dimensions of the top of the rod.

Many thanks in advance.


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## Mici (Aug 22, 2012)

Been reading stories on S-tronic knob install and how people have failed on them. My hands are itching on getting my knob installed but now I'm really worried if I'll F everything up. Damn... 

I'm still curious to see how this rod thingy goes on. Don't give up on it!

-Mici-


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## FiftyPence (Apr 25, 2004)

The much improved and more modern aesthetics mean I would still do this mod even if I had known I was going to break it before even starting.

The mistake I made was to use a creme brulee type burner to melt the plastic but rather than just melt the plastic it also seemed to burn it which meant the rod was very disformed and required alot of sanding.

The best option is to use a heatgun and this is what I should have done but chose the burner option because my heatgun did not have a concentrating nozzle.

DO NOT use one of these


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

It's really not too hard if you are patient and pay attention to what you're doing. Use a heat gun, and put a lot of towels around the console area to keep everything protected from the heat. Use some pliers to gently hold the top of the shift rod and apply heat, gently turn a little bit and hold it, then heat some more, turn a little, etc. until you get the rod turned 90 degrees. It will have a tendency to rotate back past where you are holding it, so you will have to heat and turn it past 90 degrees to get it to stay at 90 degrees. It helps if you let it cool before you release it with the pliers. I did mine this way and it took me maybe 20 minutes :thumbup:


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## bnegri10 (Oct 25, 2009)

I need one of these! How long do you expect until they are up for sale?


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## tp. (Nov 12, 2009)

i need mrjj to mail to me!


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

tp. said:


> i need mrjj to mail to me!


And I need time time to get that tiny tap. Been extrodinarily busy at work and I have to go to Connecticut for Tues to Fri.

PM me your address and maybe I can get it in the mail today.


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## JPK_ (May 25, 2012)

TBomb said:


> It's really not too hard if you are patient and pay attention to what you're doing. Use a heat gun, and put a lot of towels around the console area to keep everything protected from the heat. Use some pliers to gently hold the top of the shift rod and apply heat, gently turn a little bit and hold it, then heat some more, turn a little, etc. until you get the rod turned 90 degrees. It will have a tendency to rotate back past where you are holding it, so you will have to heat and turn it past 90 degrees to get it to stay at 90 degrees. It helps if you let it cool before you release it with the pliers. I did mine this way and it took me maybe 20 minutes :thumbup:



If you snap it what are the options?


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

JPK_ said:


> If you snap it what are the options?


Use a grub screw aka the TP method to attach the two pieces back together.


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## tboooe (Dec 30, 2012)

MisterJJ said:


> Finally had a chance to work on this again. Just need to pick up a tap now.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hello. Are you still making these and if so do you have any I can purchase? I sent you a PM. Thank you.


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## FiftyPence (Apr 25, 2004)

Admittedly this is a crude illustration but it should help.










You will need:


6mm nylon rod (I purchased mine from eBay)

Junior hacksaw









1.5mm Centre punch









Hammer

Engineers vice in which you will grip the nylon rod while you work on it.

M2 x 10mm grub screw
http://www.ebay.com/itm/M2-x-10mm-S...racter_Radio_Control_Toys&hash=item2a26bf3c1f

0.9mm allen wrench
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metric-Hex-...077?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d7082ac5

1mm and 1.5mm drill bit and hand drill or dremel drill

Precision needle file set to remove burrs from the rod and to tidy up the notch. I used the drill bit to 

M2x0.4 hand tap set to tap the threads
http://www.ebay.com/itm/M2-X-0-40-D...500?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item460281f2fc

tap wrench to fit M2 tap above - I bought this kit and just used the tap wrench from it. You will find something similar in the US.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251139642482?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

1. On receipt of 6mm nylon rod, place in engineers vice, measure 25mm from one end and mark on the rod using a pen. This will indicate the finished size of the piece. Do not cut it off yet.

2. Use the needle files to file the flat spots on the front and rear of the rod.

3. Use a pen to mark 4mm down from the top of the rod to indicate the top of the notch

4. Use a pen to mark 10mm down from the above mark, this will be the bottom of the notch

5. Use the centre punch with hammer to create a series of punch marks between the 4mm mark and the 10mm mark.

6. Use the 1mm drill bit and drill through each point you used the centre punch.

7. Drill more as necessary to open up the notch

8. Use the needle files to tidy up the notch so that it is a neat rectangle measuring 10mm x 4mm in the rod.

9. You can now trim off the 25mm rod piece from the long rod

10. Place the 25mm rod piece back in the vice

11. Use a centre punch to mark a hole in the bottom of the 25mm rod piece

12. Use 1mm drill bit and drill into the rod about 5mm

13. Use 1.5mm drillbit and redrill the same hole

14. Use M2 x 0.4mm tap and tap wrench and slowly tap the threads into the hole. Refer to youtube if you are unfamiliar with how to use a tap wrench. For every full turn clockwise you should then turn anti-clockwise a half-turn to clear the burrs created during the tap process.

15. You should now have the 25mm rod piece which has a notch in it and a threaded hole in the bottom.

16. Use the 0.9mm allen wrench and slowly work a grub screw into the bottom of the rod to ensure it works as intended. The grub screw should screw into the rod nicely and be seated at 5mm. I would suggest then unscrewing the grub screw, apply a small amount of thread lock then screw it back in. This will ensure the grub screw stays in the rod and does not unscrew when you go to install it later.

17. In the car, shift to Neutral, remove the shift knob to gain access to the shift rod

18. Use the junior hacksaw to cut through the rod immediately above the aluminum stick.

19. Use the centre punch and VERY GENTLY tap on it using a hammer to mark the centre

20. Use the 1mm drillbit and drill into the rod 5mm

21. Use the 1.5mm drillbit and redrill the hole

22. Use the M2 tap and tap wrench to create threads into the rod using method mentioned above or refer to youtube

23. You should now be able to screw your 25mm shift rod piece onto the shift rod in the vehicle.

24. Apply some vaseline or similar grease to the shift rod notch - this will ensure the pin inside the new shift knob moves freely into and out of the shift rod notch so that the button returns as intended. If you do not apply grease then you may find that the shift button is stuck in and does not pop back out.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

First sample was handed off to tboooe for test fitting.

Apparently there's a bunch of A4, S5, etc. owners with the same problem.


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

did u send me? i havent received yet???

I need to make necessary adjustments on drawing if needed


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

tp.wannabe.s3 said:


> did u send me? i havent received yet???
> 
> I need to make necessary adjustments on drawing if needed


tboooe works right down the street from my work so I figure this is faster. He promised a full report for any needed changes.

One change I intend is to use a self tapping screw so no tap will be required by installer.


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

MisterJJ said:


> tboooe works right down the street from my work so I figure this is faster. He promised a full report for any needed changes.
> 
> One change I intend is to use a self tapping screw so no tap will be required by installer.


damn man. how am i suppose to know what to change now. 

i need to physically see how it fits so i can make changes...sighhh


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

are u sellign these?


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

tp.wannabe.s3 said:


> damn man. how am i suppose to know what to change now.
> 
> i need to physically see how it fits so i can make changes...sighhh


Don't sweat it. I gave the guy instructions on what to check for and he has a mechanical engineering background. Of particular interest is the slot length, which may have to be a bit longer. I was also planning to use a self tapping screw so installers won't have to buy a tap and mess with that.


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

i duno abuot self tapping . i seen a few stripped plastic pieces from self tapping. i still think m2x.4 is more safe


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

tp.wannabe.s3 said:


> are u sellign these?


If you are implying that I'm trying to make a some significant profit off of this... No. I'm hoping I can get away with putting them in a regular envelope with some cardboard support and mailing them out with first class postage. Depending on the quanitity I'll be making, I planned on charging a buck or two each to cover the minimal expenses. Anyone who thinks that I charge too much can kiss my pasty white ass.

P.S. This will not be a product that is "for sale". The charge will simply be cost sharing. I hope that keeps the anal retentive mods happy.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

tp.wannabe.s3 said:


> i duno abuot self tapping . i seen a few stripped plastic pieces from self tapping. i still think m2x.4 is more safe


Perhaps. It's really just as easy to do either way. I can have one version with tapped hole and grub screw and another with a pre-installed self-tapping screw.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

I took my shift knob apart to get my own measurements. Here's what I got:










Duplicating the taper at the bottom of the slot would be difficult. But it does not seem neccessary as long as the clearance is provided by making the slot longer.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

First test parts sent to tp and given to tboooe. tboooe reports "Got it installed and worked like a charm! Absolutely no issues with the shift knob button sticking at all."

Here's the pics he sent:




























These were made from ABS. But I think I'll make a batch of them from aluminum simply because I can get 6mm diameter stock.


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

nice work guys. i've been following this thread for some time now. this topic has been covered for over 6 years on various forums with heat and twist and cut and grub. i am glad someone finally went to the next level. kudos for all involved. i have always preferred the cut and grub and TP christened my whip many years ago. personally, i think audi needs to articulate the metal post so that it can be lifted and turned 90 degrees to accommodate both styles. i have a few friends with congenitally short thumbs and they have stayed away from audi's due to the shift knob orientation


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## tboooe (Dec 30, 2012)

Thank you misterjj for working with me on this. The part worked perfectly. 

Just my opinion, but I think abs or nylon is the better solution for no other reason than friction. The shift knob pin is also made of metal so over time I would be worried about metal on metal rubbing. Regardless, count me in for a few pieces. 

Thank you again. 

Sent from my One X using Tapatalk 2


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

tboooe said:


> Just my opinion, but I think abs or nylon is the better solution for no other reason than friction. The shift knob pin is also made of metal so over time I would be worried about metal on metal rubbing.


Sounds like a valid concern. The potential failure mode from the metal to metal rubbing is "Galling". Anyone who has looked at a very worn cam follower knows what this looks like. You need to either generate a lot of heat and/or apply a lot of pressure while rubbing to get this. I doubt anyone will be pressing the shift knob button repeatedly and fast enough to generate too much heat. If so, you're not using the shift knob for it's intended purpose. High pressure could be a concern since the pressure is applied to such a small area. Lubrication greatly reduces the chance of galling so a dab of grease would be required.

But... I'm perfectly willing to make these out of plastic IF I can get 6mm stock. I don't have a way of easily cutting 1/4" stock down to 6mm.


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## tboooe (Dec 30, 2012)

I am actually more worried about any grinding sound that may occur if the part is not perfectly aligned. Also, the metal may damage the plastic internals of the shift knob over time. 
Of course all of this is just speculation on my part. I just feel better about using nylon or abs. 
But like I said whatever you do count me in for a few pieces. 

Sent from my One X using Tapatalk 2


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Soo yeaa... looks like i need one... mine broke oddly though. Higher up. So have room to cut off wheever needed... fml 

all because I was to lazy to cut and find a tap and grub screw etc etc.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

MisterJJ said:


> If you are implying that I'm trying to make a some significant profit off of this... No. I'm hoping I can get away with putting them in a regular envelope with some cardboard support and mailing them out with first class postage. Depending on the quanitity I'll be making, I planned on charging a buck or two each to cover the minimal expenses. Anyone who thinks that I charge too much can kiss my pasty white ass.
> 
> *P.S. This will not be a product that is "for sale". The charge will simply be cost sharing. *I hope that keeps the anal retentive mods happy.


you sure are a gentlemen!


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Ponto said:


> Soo yeaa... looks like i need one... mine broke oddly though. Higher up. So have room to cut off wheever needed... fml
> 
> all because I was to *lazy* to cut and find a tap and grub screw etc etc.


Yep, and I'm lazy too, however, the thought of twisting/snapping it using the heat method encouraged me to just cut it off the back.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

krazyboi said:


> Yep, and I'm lazy too, however, the thought of twisting/snapping it using the heat method encouraged me to just cut it off the back.


yup learned my lesson... Now I am shifting with a pair of pliers til I get my replacement piece...


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Ponto said:


> yup learned my lesson... Now I am shifting with a pair of pliers til I get my replacement piece...


Pic for proof!


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

krazyboi said:


> Pic for proof!


And the pic of shame... I done broked it good. Shifter caught when I was putting it on and snapped the top bit off, leaving me some to work with.. then this am when I pulled it up to shift into gear it snapped off as shown..










And yes my temperature doesn't match... That's a gf for you.

Have to measure it for the additional length required. Going to be a fun fix.

* EDIT pliers not shown, but I am using my Leather-man.


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

Ponto said:


> And the pic of shame... I done broked it good. Shifter caught when I was putting it on and snapped the top bit off, leaving me some to work with.. then this am when I pulled it up to shift into gear it snapped off as shown..
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Damn, yeah you broke it real good. Good luck with the fix :thumbup:


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

TBomb said:


> Damn, yeah you broke it real good. Good luck with the fix :thumbup:


Yeaa haha It will be fixed! Just gotta measure it tonight so the new one is long enough!


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

jesus man u just keep getting lower and lower.

measure in MM how far down the rod is from the top. send measurement to mrjj and ask him to make you one with correct length.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

tp.wannabe.s3 said:


> jesus man u just keep getting lower and lower.
> 
> measure in MM how far down the rod is from the top. send measurement to mrjj and ask him to make you one with correct length.


Yup already talked to him and getting him the measurement tonight!! Like I said it broke off well above, but then snapped again this am when I pulled up on it to head to work. Had to run back up stairs to get the pliers.


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## JPK_ (May 25, 2012)

How do I order one of these?


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

JPK_ said:


> How do I order one of these?


 Ask VERY nicely.


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## tboooe (Dec 30, 2012)

MisterJJ said:


> Ask VERY nicely.


 May I please get 2? Pretty please?? I want to have some spares. 

Sent from my One X using Tapatalk 2


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Reporting some progress in making these quickly and easily. I found that taking 1/4" diameter down to 6mm diameter was a PITA. I tried unsuccessfully to obtain 6mm stock at a reasonable cost. So I made a special tool.

3/8" diameter steel with approx. 6mm hole and used a dremel to make cutting teeth.









Tool gets placed in vise. Hand drill motor connected to plastic rod.
1/4" diameter goes in, 6mm diameter comes out.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Nice work man! Forgot to report back the install went flawlessly! Also Hobby shop's for planes and cars etc have the correct tap and threaded rod. The hand tap, handle, and 2mm drill bit ran me a whopping 15 dollars. :thumbup:


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## JPK_ (May 25, 2012)

I have finally got around to doing this and have the part from MisterJJ. 

Still a bit confused though... 

1. Do I just cut the shift rod (not extended) at the top of the metal outer ? 
Then use a grub screw to join the two parts together? 

2. Do I hand drill a hole for the grub screw in the existing shifter? What type of drill should I use/buy? 

3. Should I try the heat and twist method first, and use this as a backup?


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

JPK_ said:


> I have finally got around to doing this and have the part from MisterJJ.
> 
> Still a bit confused though...
> 
> ...


 From my experience, just go with this methond. You will need a 2mm drill and tap set ( Hobby stores will have them, then a 2mm grub screw to connect the two pieces. The one JJ gave you should be tapped already, so all you have to do is cut yours off, drill about 5mm deep, and tap it. Thread the two bits together and presto!


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## JPK_ (May 25, 2012)

Excuse my ignorance.. but do I need to buy a hand drill if I dont already have one? Or does the 2mm tap & drill set have everything I need? Dont think a powerdrill is the best idea!


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

I used a 18v drill. Worked like a charm. Just go slow and use a steady hand. 

Sent from my Igloo


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## JPK_ (May 25, 2012)

I got a 2mm tap & drill set, but do I need a 1mm drill bit still?


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

JPK_ said:


> I got a 2mm tap & drill set, but do I need a 1mm drill bit still?


By definition, a tap & drill set should include the correct drill.

A 2mm - 0.4 pitch tap uses a 1.6mm drill. But a 1/16" drill is almost the same and will work perfectly.


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## JPK_ (May 25, 2012)

F*ck.. i was doing so well then had trouble putting the new knob and boot on... and pushed the button in :facepalm:

What is the tool/method I need to use to pop it back out? I have done a few searches and have tried poking around in there with a piece of wire coat hanger but no joy.


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

i used a paper clip and fish it out


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

heres my vid


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## JPK_ (May 25, 2012)

Great. Should be able to do that no problem. 

Is there any trick to pushing the knob down onto the modified shift rod? I was pushing down fairly hard and it wasnt doing anything. Didnt want to go overboard as I dont want to snap the shift rod.


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## JPK_ (May 25, 2012)

I have the boot on it. See below (one on the right). How do you get that plastic 'washer' twist piece off?


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

use zip tie tie the 4 prongs together
use flat head pry it off


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## JPK_ (May 25, 2012)

Thank you for the help. 

Yeah ive looked at DIYs that show that, but I have this extra piece that is locking the part that you would usually put the zip tie around. I can twist it 45 degrees but that doesnt appear to make it any easier to remove. It also doesnt leave any room to put a zip tie on.


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## JPK_ (May 25, 2012)

Sorted. Just needed to twist it the aforementioned 45 degrees then pry it off with a flathead.
That piece then goes on before the knob (when installing in vehicle) and then screws up onto it to hold it in place (instead of the original metal retainer).

Made this whole thing a bit harder for myself by buying a RHD knob/boot when I needed LHD, so had to swap over the base piece and glue/tack it on. Also by pushing the button in. Spent a fair bit on the tools required (tap + drill set, tapping tool, hobby saw and tacking gun), so that would be something to take into account if you dont have those. The piece MisterJJ supplied made that side of it a lot quicker. Thanks for all your help!

Success!




























[


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## Road_Ralley (Feb 4, 2001)

back from the dead. F'd mine up and need one of these, are they still available? Can't get my key out without manually pressing the tab down in the shifter since I did a poor job drilling on center.


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## everydayparadise (Sep 8, 2006)

I guess I have been lucky doing this mod. I have used the heat gun method on 4 cars now with no issues. Did my 4th on this past weekend on my 2006 A4 with a MKVI DSG Shifter


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

everydayparadise said:


> I guess I have been lucky doing this mod. I have used the heat gun method on 4 cars now with no issues. Did my 4th on this past weekend on my 2006 A4 with a MKVI DSG Shifter



Picture no worky. 

Intersting in A4... my mechanic wants to do it.


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## everydayparadise (Sep 8, 2006)

Fixed :thumbup: :laugh:


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

everydayparadise said:


> Fixed :thumbup: :laugh:


Nice, got any pictures of the A4 one?


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## Road_Ralley (Feb 4, 2001)

everydayparadise said:


> I guess I have been lucky doing this mod. I have used the heat gun method on 4 cars now with no issues.


I regret not using a heat gun. I cut mine off and did the screw trick....off center.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Road_Ralley said:


> I regret not using a heat gun. I cut mine off and did the screw trick....off center.


Didn't use a center punch?


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## Road_Ralley (Feb 4, 2001)

Yes, but still had it slip. Right now I can use either knob but the button never fully comes out after depressing it. I have to lift the boot and press down on the black square at the bottom in order to have the knob button spring all the way out. I also have to do this each time I put it in park to release the ignition lock. Only have to do this with a knob on. Works fine with no knob.


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## Road_Ralley (Feb 4, 2001)

I think it's because it's off center and with a knob on the upper plastic piece is catching on the aluminum lip of the guide.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Road_Ralley said:


> I think it's because it's off center and with a knob on the upper plastic piece is catching on the aluminum lip of the guide.


Most likely yes, did you put any grease on the rod? I noticed my caught a few times at first but now is fine. Button was sticky, but it would eventually release.


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## Road_Ralley (Feb 4, 2001)

Ponto said:


> Most likely yes, did you put any grease on the rod?


Haha, I'll give it a try. I'm frustrated with it now so I will revisit it tomorrow when I'm less fatigued and frustrated with it. Thanks for the tip


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## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

You can try sanding down the sides of the rod so it doesnt catch. as long as the hole is there its good.


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## Road_Ralley (Feb 4, 2001)

I have misterjj sending a new upper. If it doesn't help I'll be sanding and greasing


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## Road_Ralley (Feb 4, 2001)

I have misterjj sending a new upper. If it doesn't help I'll be sanding and greasing


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Road_Ralley said:


> I regret not using a heat gun. I cut mine off and did the screw trick....off center.


Which way is it off center? Front/back or left/right? Got a pic?

I didn't send your part yesterday because I couldn't find where I put them but I've got them now. I've also got several that I have not drilled and tapped the threaded hole yet. I could intentionally off-center one for you or I could send you a non-drilled one for you to drill and tap.


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## Road_Ralley (Feb 4, 2001)

PM sent


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## Olvr007 (Aug 22, 2014)

*What if...*

How about just cutting it off and put it back together with some Epoxy? ("3500 PSI of pressure").

That way you know it'll be centered.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Olvr007 said:


> How about just cutting it off and put it back together with some Epoxy? ("3500 PSI of pressure").
> 
> That way you know it'll be centered.


Assuming you stick on on straight lol.


When we did Audi-eh3's I made an observation, if you cut the rod off at the metal level it the cut section never goes down below that so it really shouldn't be an issue. It has to be catching up inside the handle and not down lower. 

Not that it matters though haha.


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## Olvr007 (Aug 22, 2014)

Ponto said:


> Assuming you stick on on straight lol.
> 
> 
> When we did Audi-eh3's I made an observation, if you cut the rod off at the metal level it the cut section never goes down below that so it really shouldn't be an issue. It has to be catching up inside the handle and not down lower.
> ...



I see. Also, have you had ANY problems with the constructed piece? maybe snapping from the junction or something?


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## DC Dawg (May 13, 2012)

Wow. These parts are a life saver ! 

I ordered a new rod and the tap and drill guides. 
And a few extras for some guys on Audizine 

1 question: mine snapped really just at the punch out - see below 









So is my best bet to cut the reset right at the outer metal sleeve and then attach the new rod with a grub screw as per instructions? That would be the correct height for the rod correct ?

Thanks !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Mansor (Sep 6, 2021)

Hi. I’m actually quit happy I found this post, it’s mean there’s still hope to safe me from using 1400 usd (that’s what local Audi ask for repairing). And I know this post is few years ago, but hopefully you guys still alive and can answer me  
MisterJJ I’ve sent you a msg shapeways, I really want to buy this piece, otherwise if misterjj isn’t sending anymore, is it possible to get measurements from you guys, so I can have a 3D printer guy printing me this piece?


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## Mansor (Sep 6, 2021)

DC Dawg said:


> Wow. These parts are a life saver !
> 
> I ordered a new rod and the tap and drill guides.
> And a few extras for some guys on Audizine
> ...


have you done it successfully ? If yes, do you have by any chance instruction on which drill to use for drilling and sizes etc, step by step guide maybe, I’ll appreciate it


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## solohan (Jan 14, 2013)

Mansor said:


> have you done it successfully ? If yes, do you have by any chance instruction on which drill to use for drilling and sizes etc, step by step guide maybe, I’ll appreciate it


i am also looking for anyway to get this adapter.


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

I don’t get it. Didn’t you go to transmogrify on shapeways and find it?


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## TurboSharef (Jun 2, 2014)

I want to do this mod. What is involved in changing the shift rod, so I can buy the 3D printed on and install the stronic knob? Do I need other parts or do I just replace the rod?

Sent from my SM-G986W using Tapatalk


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