# Help with Codes, P1114, P1603, P1128, P1136, P1118



## 89VR (Feb 6, 2002)

I knew my rear 02 sensor was bad, replaced it, along with the downpipe, broken flex section. We put the car back together, now crank no start issue. Car started but ran rough on what sounded like 1 cylinder and was banging hard. Now, crank and no start. Car has a new maf, plugs, timing belt, head etc... no vac. leaks. ran fine when we drove it into the garage for service. 
My insight into the codes
P1114 - Bank 1 - Sensor 2 - internal resistant too high
P1603 - Internal Control Module Malfunction
P1128 - Long Term Fuel Trim mult Bank 1 system too lean
P1136 - Long Term Fuel Trim Add Fuel, Bank 1 system too lean
P1118 - 02 sensor heater circ - Bank 1 - Sensor 2 open.
Now, i tried starting the car with the 02 sensors both ways and open. Nothing changed, some of these might be a result of that, I don't know.
Any help would be great, could it be a coolant temp sensor? on the 1128?
Thanks in advance.
-Chris


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## Theresias (Feb 11, 2004)

*Re: Help with Codes, P1114, P1603, P1128, P1136, P1118 (89VR)*

Post a complete Auto-Scan please...
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1201719
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1260842


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## 89VR (Feb 6, 2002)

*Re: Help with Codes, P1114, P1603, P1128, P1136, P1118 (Theresias)*

That's as complete as it gets. Car is a 2000 Audi TT Quattro. I didn't scan it with a vag-com, scanned w/ a mac scan tool, so I guess i didn't follow the rules and cleared the codes, since its not running and the codes probably wont store in memory again, I don't think I can rescan with a vagcom, but i'll try. I read the links, anything else?
Thanks,


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## mesuky22 (Feb 20, 2003)

*Re: Help with Codes, P1114, P1603, P1128, P1136, P1118 (89VR)*

your o2 sensor can throw a lean code but i would smoke test ur vacuum system and test ur MAF sensor.


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## 89VR (Feb 6, 2002)

*Re: Help with Codes, P1114, P1603, P1128, P1136, P1118 (mesuky22)*

thanks, i'll try that.


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## joako (Jun 30, 2002)

***
P1603 - Internal Control Module Malfunction
***
Fix that first either your ECU is bad or your chip is bad.


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## 89VR (Feb 6, 2002)

*Re: (joako)*

that is a bad ecu code? damn, that sucks. I just swapped out the cts and maf for good ones, still nothing and no new codes. some times i can't hear the fuel pump prime, some times it does, some times it doesn't. going to swap the relay and test current at the pump.
if it is a bad ecu, going to be hard to find a new one.


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## Theresias (Feb 11, 2004)

*Re: Help with Codes, P1114, P1603, P1128, P1136, P1118 (Theresias)*

There is a reason why I/we asked for this...

_Quote, originally posted by *Theresias* »_Post a complete Auto-Scan please...

it's possible you are hunting ghosts here and spending money which isn't really going to help fixing the problems.


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## joako (Jun 30, 2002)

*Re: (89VR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *89VR* »_that is a bad ecu code? damn, that sucks. I just swapped out the cts and maf for good ones, still nothing and no new codes. some times i can't hear the fuel pump prime, some times it does, some times it doesn't. going to swap the relay and test current at the pump.
if it is a bad ecu, going to be hard to find a new one.

You cleared the code and it does not come back? Then your ECU is fine. Its not hard to find one any Audi dealer should be able to order it, so should most, if not all VW dealers.
You mean the fuel pump prime when you open the door? There is a timer for that, so its not always going to happen. 
The best thing you can do right now is get a VAG-Com and use that to diagnose your problems. Usually say your engine light turns on the generic tool will be "good enough" to diagnose your issue. It could be something silly like the fuel pump relay, which is easy to diagnose with VAG-Com, very hard without it. The injectors run off the fuel pump relay for example.....


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## joako (Jun 30, 2002)

Also, I must add, highly unlikely that MAF or CTS would cause the car to not start. There's a crankshaft position sensor or similar that will prevent the car from starting. Also I assume you have checked all the fuses and double checked any connections in the engine that you might have forgot to replace or removed/loosened by accident. Replacing a downpipe and O2s usually doesn't cause these issues. 
Also you don't mention the engine you have, I am pretty sure you have a 1.8t and guess its engine code AMU or BEA....


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## 89VR (Feb 6, 2002)

*Re: (joako)*

I don't have a vag-com. Only had access to a mac scan tool. sorry. and i cleared the codes, no new ones are being stored. what else do I need for an auto-scan? I'll try and get the car vagged but its going to be hard. I'm going to try and jump the fuel pump relay, i thinks its J17 on the block which is 167 in my block. when i know more i'll post more.
I havn't spent any money on useless parts, im not that stupid. i also have a 20 year old ferrari, so i know about not ordering useless parts. trust me...


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## Theresias (Feb 11, 2004)

*Re: (89VR)*

Then your question is off topic here and honestly based on our experience with generic OBD-2 you better get these codes read with a manufacturer specific scan tool.


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## joako (Jun 30, 2002)

Well its just a hunch, see here: http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-c....html
Also repair manual really helps it might give you a few tests you can buy online access for a few days at a reasonable price, see http://www.bentleypublishers.com


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## Gozer The Destructor (May 10, 2004)

*Re: (89VR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *89VR* »_I don't have a vag-com. Only had access to a mac scan tool. 

http://****************.com/default/zero2/lock5.gif


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