# Build your own pressuryte system?



## Jester2893 (May 2, 2008)

Well I called Jay at fab lab and he is no longer producing this unit, yet I am interested in this setup for my air ride setup. It is the cheapest alternative to lifting my car when I start it, but at 350$ and it not being produced anymore doesn't look like a viable option for me. Also the fact that I am only running a 4 valve setup it might be a better option for me to make my own as well? 


What the pressuryte is for the unfamiliar: 

"http://www.fab-labcustoms.com/info.htm" 



Now on my old laptop I had someone send me a diagram on how to build a cheaper alternative to this for under 100$, it used 2 air ride valves, a check valve, some fittings and two pressure regulators. I no longer have that laptop or diagram or the specific info needed to build it. 


Something like this? Not even 5% sure that this is how it should look, just thought this is how I remember how it looked maybe? 
2 regulators that I could use though: http://www.dultmeier.com/products/0.2.65.3590/6543 


```
Air line t'd into system (front line),    Air line t'd into system (rear line) 
                                                         
 air from tank>inflate valve>pressure reg>tee>check valve> tee>pressure reg>dump valve
```
 
I am wondering if anyone has done this has any information on it, parts list, diagram or pictures? 

Thanks.


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## Jester2893 (May 2, 2008)

Anyone wanna lend out some advice please?


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## no vtec 4me (Aug 1, 2006)

Jester2893 said:


> Anyone wanna lend out some advice please?


 since hes no longer making them maybe he will help you?>


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## martin13 (Apr 20, 2010)

im very interested in this and i'd totally be willing to help you figure it out. i want this haha i hate having gauges in my car. 

edit: OP check your PM :thumbup:


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## Jester2893 (May 2, 2008)

Found it, got extremely lucky and saved it in 2 photobucket accounts ago.  


Enjoy: 











Credit goes to whoever created this, thank you:thumbup: .


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## martin13 (Apr 20, 2010)

i made a new diagram since that one is hard to read. im going to get the parts to build this tomorrow :thumbup:


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## Jester2893 (May 2, 2008)

Wow man good job looks good :thumbup: . If you get these made and installed tomorrow please post back how it works and also what regulators you went with as I am not sure which ones I am going with. 

Thanks again man.


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## martin13 (Apr 20, 2010)

no problem. ill post some pics up here or somethin. i think im gonna try and find something similar to what you posted here


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## no vtec 4me (Aug 1, 2006)

would be cool to see if this works. In for results...


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## Jester2893 (May 2, 2008)

Seems like it should work, I found the regulators I am going to get, now is just find 1/4 check valves instead of 3/8s. 


Anyone know which type of check valve I would need? 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#check-valves/=athio0 


If anyone has any other info on this it would help :thumbup: . Also this setup can easily be used with a switch so anytime the pressure drops below the regulated height the valve will click on when the switch is on or just wired to the keyd 12v acc line so when the key turns on the car will rise for you and you can drive off.


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## rjones1214 (Apr 24, 2009)

I'm very interested to see how this works out. 

Does this make it so it's not adjustable unless you change the regulator pressure?


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## Jester2893 (May 2, 2008)

rjones1214 said:


> I'm very interested to see how this works out.
> 
> Does this make it so it's not adjustable unless you change the regulator pressure?


 With the switch in the "on" position yes, the switch box is rendered useless and wouldn't adjust or if it did it would just go right back up to the present pressure from the regulators, but when the switch is in the "off" position you will have full control of your bags. 


This should also work if the switch is on and you have a leak or something the valve will keep kicking on and keeping that regulated pressure.


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## martin13 (Apr 20, 2010)

the place where i usually get fittings and air ride parts was closed today so ill do it tomorrow. i think this can be done for under 100 bucks though. :thumbup:


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## Jester2893 (May 2, 2008)

martin13 said:


> the place where i usually get fittings and air ride parts was closed today so ill do it tomorrow. i think this can be done for under 100 bucks though. :thumbup:


 Well give or take, I priced it out at about 150 which still isn't too bad. 

Since I am only doing a 4 valve: 

2 Regulators 50$ 
1/4 SMC Valve: 30$ 
2 3/8 check valves (if I can't find 1/4 ones):30$ 
Fittings/Reducers etc: 35$ 

145-/+


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## Slo.Mo.Shun (Jan 13, 2010)

I am in the process of making my own system, and noticed that some dont run check valves.

Wouldn't this mean the regulators would be constantly venting excess pressure caused by bumps and turns ?


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## martin13 (Apr 20, 2010)

Slo.Mo.Shun said:


> I am in the process of making my own system, and noticed that some dont run check valves.
> 
> Wouldn't this mean the regulators would be constantly venting excess pressure caused by bumps and turns ?


most likely. it depends on the regulator you use. keep in mind that no check valves will also result in your 8 valve system turning into a 4 valve system :thumbdown:


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## Slo.Mo.Shun (Jan 13, 2010)

I already included the check valves on my list, I dont want my bags cross feeding. I just couldn't see the system working properly without them.

I found some awesome check valves for $12.

Maximum Pressure: Buna-N: 1000 psi @ 250° F
Cracking Pressure: 0.3 psi 










I am just waiting on some parts from Bag Riders to complete the system.


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## Jester2893 (May 2, 2008)

If your only running four valves like I am, you don't need check valves. :thumbup:


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## Slo.Mo.Shun (Jan 13, 2010)

What about venting through the regulators ?


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## Jester2893 (May 2, 2008)

Slo.Mo.Shun said:


> What about venting through the regulators ?


For me this systems use is strictly to raise my car when I turn the key so I don't have sit there and mess with my switch box, so unlike others this doesn't really have an affect on me as when im driving over bumpers and such the system would be turned off and I don't think the regulators would still vent correct?

Maybe im wrong?


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## binturbo (May 24, 2010)

This system is in addition to your existing valves right? So i could just set this up to one of my unused switches in my controller?

From what i understand, you hit the switch to fill the bags to your ride height pressure (regulator pressure), and to air out its the same down switches as you already have.

This would mean you need to tee lines from the regulators, to each existing line. Into 2 line for a 4 valve setup and into 4 lines for a 8 valve setup.

Please correct me if im wrong. Im really interested in doing this, and just want a better understanding of how it all works.


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## 16v_HOR (Jul 21, 2005)

binturbo said:


> This system is in addition to your existing valves right? So i could just set this up to one of my unused switches in my controller?
> 
> From what i understand, you hit the switch to fill the bags to your ride height pressure (regulator pressure), and to air out its the same down switches as you already have.
> 
> ...


That is correct. Think of it as a piggyback system that will simply keep your bags inflated at the predetermined regulator pressure. It could have endless uses depending on what people are looking to get out of it, but it would be most useful (in my eyes anyways) as a quick way to get to ride height as well as extra insurance in case you ever get a leak while driving. :thumbup:


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## binturbo (May 24, 2010)

16v_HOR said:


> but it would be most useful (in my eyes anyways) as a quick way to get to ride height as well as extra insurance in case you ever get a leak while driving. :thumbup:


 So if there is a valve before the regulators, how does it maintain the pressure after the regulators without having to hit the switch again? 

Im going to start gathering pieces for my setup today. The fastenal guy for my work loves me because i keep buying all my air ride stuff from him. He's like, "What are you doing with all this stuff? Its for your car?":sly:


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## toplessvw (Jul 31, 2003)

nice will have to steal this idea


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## Miguel Lopez Ma (Mar 12, 2007)

I do not like that system, who spent his working pressure rises because of a bump in the road?, The pressure regulator will see more pressure and let out the air, bringing the height down car

Este sistema no me gusta, ¿que pasa si la presión del sistema sube por un bache en la carretera?, el regulador de presion vera mas presion y dejara escapar el aire, con lo que el coche bajara su altura.


----

I use an adjustable switch the place of the adjustable valve, a switch and start making the compressor, pressure regulation at 50-60psi on the switch adjustable, and do it through a switch connection to the valve upload. So you to activate the adjustable switch of the car to rise to the regulated pressure.


Yo utilizaría un switch ajustable en el lugar de las valvulas ajustables, un switch como el que hace poner en marcha el compresor, regulamos la presión a 50-60PSi en el switch ajustable, y hacemos a través de un interruptor la conexión a la válvula de subida. Así usted al activar el botón de los switch ajustables el coche se elevara hasta la presión regulada. 


I call my system SRA.
A mi sistema le llamo SRA.










Here is an adjustable switch that could be worth, but if it is better 1PSI to 100 psi.
Aquí un switch ajustable que podría valer, pero si es de 1PSi To 100PSi mejor.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pressure-se...602?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3360407702

http://www.alliedelec.com/Images/Pr...ET-CORPORATION_INDUSTRIAL-CONTROL_7930151.PDF



I am looking for the perfect adjustable pressure switch to make my system.
yo estoy buscando el presostato ajustable perfecto para fabricar mi sistema


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## Slo.Mo.Shun (Jan 13, 2010)

Use check valves so it does not drain pressure back.

Usa válvulas de retención de una via para que no se escape el aire.


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## Miguel Lopez Ma (Mar 12, 2007)

Anyone know of any pressure switch adjustable from 1 to 100PSI and 12 volts?. I'm looking for my system . I do not understand much English


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## Miguel Lopez Ma (Mar 12, 2007)

Slo.Mo.Shun said:


> Use check valves so it does not drain pressure back.
> 
> Usa válvulas de retención de una via para que no se escape el aire.


Yes, but I do not understand it, because when taking the bumps in the road you can see on analog watches as the needle goes up and down bone in the system pressure rises and falls. So if you have the check valves morons to 50PSI and 50PSI system is working, going over a bump in the road, the system pressure to rise to 60 psi for example, the check valve 10psi air let out to stay at 50PSI, so actually coming out of the hole you have 40psi in your circuit, so you lose ground clearance. I see it like a friend, maybe I'm wrong. 

This problem does not exist on my system called SRA elevation.

--

Si, pero yo no logro entenderlo, pues al coger los baches de la carretera usted puede ver en los relojes analógicos como la aguja sube y baja, osea la presión en el sistema sube y baja. Por lo que si usted tiene las check valves tarados a 50PSI y su sistema esta trabajando a 50PSI, al pasar por un bache en la carretera la presión en el circuito se elevara por ejemplo a 60PSI, la check valve dejara escapar 10PSI de aire hasta quedarse en 50PSI, por lo que en realidad al salir del bache usted tendrá 40PSI en su circuito, por lo que perderá altura al suelo. Yo lo veo así amigo, a lo mejor estoy equivocado. 

Este problema no existe en mi sistema de elevación llamado SRA.


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## Miguel Lopez Ma (Mar 12, 2007)

Ok, I saw the problem, I saw that there was a check valve before the valve.

Ok, ya vi el problema, no vi que había una válvula antes de la check valve. 


then my scheme is poorly designed, I fix it and re-upload to the web
entonces mi esquema esta mal diseñado, lo corrijo y lo vuelvo a subir a la web


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## Miguel Lopez Ma (Mar 12, 2007)

is a system of two-way, but you just have to duplicate the facility to make it four ways.

es un systema de dos vias, pero solo hay que duplicar la instalacion para hacerlo de cuatro vias.


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## Miguel Lopez Ma (Mar 12, 2007)

4-way electrical system SRA 

my system is more simple, only needs four adjustable switches,one switch to activate the system, and 10 feet of cable.


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## martin13 (Apr 20, 2010)

"adjustable switch" doesn't mean anything. is it a rheostat or air flow control or what?


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## Miguel Lopez Ma (Mar 12, 2007)

martin13 said:


> "adjustable switch" doesn't mean anything. is it a rheostat or air flow control or what?


Sorry, Adjustable pressure switches (manostats), that can be adjusted from 1psi to 100psi or similar


something like this but adjustable from 1 to 100PSI
http://bagriders.com/modlab/products/ADJUSTABLE-PRESSURE-SWITCH.html


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## ryanmiller (Apr 13, 2006)

Miguel Lopez Ma said:


> Sorry, Adjustable pressure switches (manostats), that can be adjusted from 1psi to 100psi or similar
> 
> 
> something like this but adjustable from 1 to 100PSI
> http://bagriders.com/modlab/products/ADJUSTABLE-PRESSURE-SWITCH.html


so it is like a electric regulator that you can control remotely?

so you would, have 4 potentiometers in the cabin for height control?


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## CiDirkona (May 1, 2007)

Hey guys, I've got another thread on here talking about this concept - in fact, that drawing with the red lines I made last week and posted to the thread.

The system I designed does a push-button dump-to-ride-height. You have to air up to pressure above your desired rife height, and then vent through an adjustable pressure relief valve down. It is not designed to be left on the entire time you're driving around - not would you want it to.

Part of the problem in designing this system is the cost and availability of parts. A true pressureyte-ish system would require 8 valves and 4 regulators for a cost of at least $240. I can provide diagrams if you'd like. 

The system that I well go with is an even more simple 4 valve, 4 T, 4 adjustable pressure regulators. Lift above ride height, press the button that vents to the pressure you set with the adjustable regulatorA.D.

If you're looking for adjustable pressure switches, Devil's Own water-methanol injection company had some listed on their website for $27 each. You could use these to activate the normal dump valves or lift valves - that way it'd stop once it got to the switches' set pressure... http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/water-injection-parts/1-adjustable-pressure-switch.html


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## CiDirkona (May 1, 2007)

Miguel, I think that we think very similarly regarding this engineering challenge. I have posts on electronics forms asking about help regarding this system. 

Using the Mason adjustable pressure switches listed above, you could easily make a lift-to-ride height OR dump-to-ride height system using your existing lift and dump valves and relays to switch the power from either lift or dunno depending on if that switch was open or closed. If you tried to do both though, you'd oscillate between too-high and too-low pressures.

If you used 8 pressure switches, you could have a pressure window to avoid oscillation, but that would get very expensive...


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## CiDirkona (May 1, 2007)

Using 4 Nason adjustable pressure switches, 4 DPDT relays, and two DPDT push button momentary switches, you could make a push-to-lift ride height button and a lower-to-ride-height buttons using your existing valves.

The reason I keep going back to the adjustable-pressure-relief valves though, is just for the sake of simplicity. 1 $4 T, 1 $25 valve, and 1 Grainger relief valve per line. Easy, simple and cheap.


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## CiDirkona (May 1, 2007)

Miguel Lopez Ma said:


> 4-way electrical system SRA
> 
> my system is more simple, only needs four adjustable switches,one switch to activate the system, and 10 feet of cable.


Here's how I see it:

No system using electronic valves should be left 'on' all the time. Not only would the valve solenoids burn up after being left on for 5-10 seconds, but a constantly-regulating system would most likely not be desirable for performance. (Imagine braking hard from 100mph to zero. Front bag pressure would go up as weight shifts forward, system vents and the front gets lower and lower....) These are designed to set bag VOLUME by instantaneous pressure.


A) This will still lift to ride height and stop. That's fine if you're aired out parked or something, but if you're driving down the street at full height, you'd have to lower the car to UNDER desired ride height and then push the SRA button to raise each line to ride height. -- If you had two bags too high, and two bags too low, it would also only fill the two low bags until they reach desired pressure. This would be more efficient on your tank as you wouldn't have to overfill and then immediately dump, but could be more dangerous as you'd have to go LOWER than you wanted to while driving.

B) If you did something similar to this but had it activate the dump valves until ride height is reached, you'd have to raise the whole car up past desired ride height, and then press the SRA button until each line went to it's desired ride height. This would be safer as you wouldn't have to go lower than you wanted and then to your goal -- you'd have to go higher than you wanted, and then down to your goal. -- This has no functional benefit over the 4 valve, 4 pressure relief system, other than it uses fewer valves. The cost is nearly the same though as the pressure switches cost just as much as the valves.

C) If you did something similar to the above picture but activated the UP OR DOWN valves, per line, depending on the pressure switching being on or off, you could achieve desired height even if you were too low or too high to start. The bad part of that is that once each line achieved ride height, the switch would oscillate and fill/vent back and forth between 'too high' and 'too low.' Vent, fill, vent, fill, etc. One way to get past this would be to use 8 pressure switches and have a 'window' of acceptable ride height pressure too line, say "less than 75psi, air up. over 80psi, vent." This wouldn't even require relays most likely, but would be drastically more expensive ($220 at least...) and would be difficult to adjust, as you'd have to adjust each line's desired pressure window by trial and error. Another way to get around this would be to use a PLC that would either determine if each line needed to be filled or vented via input from the pressure switch being on or off, and then just either vent or fill until the pressure switch _changed state_. IE.... Bag at 100psi, vent until it hits 80psi and the pressure switch turns off, and shut off the dump valve --OR-- bag at 40psi, fill until it hits 80psi adn the pressure switch turns on, and shot off the fill valve. At that point you're talking even more money and might as well buy an AutoPilot. Depending on how bad the oscillation is at desired ride height, the lift/vent single button might not be a bad solution.

D) If you did this similar thing with two DPDT push-button momentary switches, and relays on the pressure switches, you could have one button that both powered up the pressure switches and thus relays and the DOWN valves (if the relays sent power to them) and another that did the same thing for the UP valves... One button for 'up to ride' height', and then one button for 'down to ride height.' No oscillations, but you have to press two buttons sequentially. If you pressed both buttons, you'd basically force yourself into the oscillations mentioned in part C.

E) No electronic pressure switches at all:

Qty 4 1/4" PTC T to 1/4"NPT KMW Performance Part #: T-14N14L
Qty 4 ASCO 1/4" valves KMW Performance Part #: AV-SC8261S406
Qty 4 adjustable pressure relief valves, Grainger NC25-1UK002

You simply put one T, one valve and one pressure regulator on the 'vent' line of each bag line via the T. When you press the momentary 'ride height' button, the valve opens and IFF the line pressure is over the pressure set by the regulator, it'll vent. If the pressure's too low, no venting will happen. You either have to lift ABOVE ride height first, then vent down with a ride height button. All four 'regulated dump' valves are charged at the same time with a single momentary press button.


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## Slo.Mo.Shun (Jan 13, 2010)

Why are you guys complicating things so much ?

This works like a charm


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## Miguel Lopez Ma (Mar 12, 2007)

ryanmiller said:


> so it is like a electric regulator that you can control remotely?
> 
> so you would, have 4 potentiometers in the cabin for height control?


You only need a switch in the cabin to activate the SRA and the car will go up in height.

you regulate the height at the presurre adjustable switch. 


you choose 50 PSI in the pressure adjustable switch for example, and when you hit the SRA switch the car height at 50PSI automatically.


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## Miguel Lopez Ma (Mar 12, 2007)

CiDirkona said:


> Miguel, I think that we think very similarly regarding this engineering challenge. I have posts on electronics forms asking about help regarding this system.
> 
> Using the Mason adjustable pressure switches listed above, you could easily make a lift-to-ride height OR dump-to-ride height system using your existing lift and dump valves and relays to switch the power from either lift or dunno depending on if that switch was open or closed. If you tried to do both though, you'd oscillate between too-high and too-low pressures.
> 
> If you used 8 pressure switches, you could have a pressure window to avoid oscillation, but that would get very expensive...


Hello friend, my system is two-way, and I have no problems of oscillation of the car.



These are my valves











I want to lift the car to ride height one-touch switch. To lower the ride height using switches up and down normal, with the SRA switch off with no problems in up and down


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## Miguel Lopez Ma (Mar 12, 2007)

CiDirkona said:


> Here's how I see it:
> 
> No system using electronic valves should be left 'on' all the time. Not only would the valve solenoids burn up after being left on for 5-10 seconds, but a constantly-regulating system would most likely not be desirable for performance. (Imagine braking hard from 100mph to zero. Front bag pressure would go up as weight shifts forward, system vents and the front gets lower and lower....) These are designed to set bag VOLUME by instantaneous pressure.
> 
> ...


I answer this morning


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## CiDirkona (May 1, 2007)

Slo.Mo.Shun said:


> Why are you guys complicating things so much ?
> 
> This works like a charm


That's a pretty simple system as well, kinda the opposite to the others I have come up with for lowering-to-ride-height, although I do admit, I like the single valve setup. -- when you use the regulators as sources, you can get by with just a single valve. I like it!

I was hoping to avoid having manually drop BELOW desired ride height as that could be unsafe, if say, you were driving down the road or something. I was also trying to avoid check valves as decent ones aren't cheap. I was also hoping to come up with a system that would actually completely level, not just lift-to-ride-height or dump-to-ride-height. The valve, regulator, valve setup would work for both lift and lower to ride height -- but the cost isn't cheap.

Do you air out completely and then activate that valve?

Which regulators did you go with? Harbor Freight has $5 gauged regulators that I've used for other projects that could probably work well here. If it leaks, it's no big deal as it's isolated between the check valves and one valve...

Edit: Afterthought: If you replaced those check valves with four more solenoid valves, you could have both lift-to-ride-height AND Lower to ride height... Cost would go up by about $60 though....


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## CiDirkona (May 1, 2007)

Miguel Lopez Ma said:


> Hello friend, my system is two-way, and I have no problems of oscillation of the car.
> 
> 
> 
> These are my valves


The oscillation would come from using the Nason adjustable pressure switch to activate BOTH the fill and vent valves. The pressure switch would either always be on or off, so it'd just go back and forth between 'too high' and 'too low' as long as the button were down...


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## Slo.Mo.Shun (Jan 13, 2010)

CiDirkona said:


> That's a pretty simple system as well, kinda the opposite to the others I have come up with for lowering-to-ride-height, although I do admit, I like the single valve setup. -- when you use the regulators as sources, you can get by with just a single valve. I like it!
> 
> I was hoping to avoid having manually drop BELOW desired ride height as that could be unsafe, if say, you were driving down the road or something. I was also trying to avoid check valves as decent ones aren't cheap. I was also hoping to come up with a system that would actually completely level, not just lift-to-ride-height or dump-to-ride-height. The valve, regulator, valve setup would work for both lift and lower to ride height -- but the cost isn't cheap.
> 
> ...


I just use my system to air up to ride height.

[video]http://youtu.be/utKViDVv2IA?hd=1[/video]

The system is only allowed to put air in the bags. Anything else could compromise safety.

I got just about everything at http://www.mcmaster.com/

This is what I used for check valves (Quick-Opening Brass Check Valves) : http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/474/=fc4oo3

&

Regulators: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/955/=fc4q6h


I used the aluminium ones because I feed them 200 psi.

Ps. The silver fittings on those pics were all replaced for DOT ones.


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## CiDirkona (May 1, 2007)

Slo.Mo.Shun said:


> I just use my system to air up to ride height.
> 
> [video]http://youtu.be/utKViDVv2IA?hd=1[/video]
> 
> ...


Your system definitely has the upper hand on my theory on simplicity AND total install price. This is how I'll be doing mine as well.


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## toplessvw (Jul 31, 2003)

here is my 3 stage design aired out, drive height, and obstical


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## CiDirkona (May 1, 2007)

toplessvw said:


> here is my 3 stage design aired out, drive height, and obstical


That's an interesting solution. What's the third regulator for? Your obstacle height is regulated?


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## toplessvw (Jul 31, 2003)

yes obstical height is regulated,not required but i made it wife proof


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## airbagjay (Dec 24, 2011)

WOW you guys have put some time into this. I spent 3 years or so goofing around with it before I felt that it was good enough to sell it. I have just started throwing around the idea of another production run of the Pressuryte with a total redesign to which will lower the retail cost also. I will let you guys know when I get closer to having a prototype because I will need a test dummy. Oh yeah I guess I should say that I am the guy who designed and built the Pressuryte.


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## Slo.Mo.Shun (Jan 13, 2010)

sign me up


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## CiDirkona (May 1, 2007)

Ditto.


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## Niagara_V_Dub (Sep 25, 2007)

Lord, don't let this be a troll.


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## ALRDesign (Nov 5, 2008)

I've been putting my own together on my spare time at work. Not going to sell them; I just like taking on small personal projects that involve my CNC talents.


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## Slo.Mo.Shun (Jan 13, 2010)

Im just going to leave this here. 

http://www.ridewellcorp.com/Web/Site.nsf/ID/air


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## CiDirkona (May 1, 2007)

PM sent.


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## Slo.Mo.Shun (Jan 13, 2010)

Replied


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