# Common Issues to 24v VR6 motors



## apstguy (Apr 3, 2006)

*Common Issues*

I haven't been able to find a list of common issues to 24v VR6 motors so I will go ahead and start one. (Just as a note, most of the problems are minor, 24V VR6s are reliable motors)

Coilpacks - Can go bad leaving you stranded. Not as common at 1.8T coils. MIL light flashes and throttle is turned off. Causes misfires and many misfire codes. Causes stalling and rough idle. Several versions have been made. Version A-D are very failure prone! Stay away. Other revisions: D G J K N *update*: Old part number revision N #022-905-100N NEW PART #022 905 715C 
You can check coilpack by unpluging while engine is idling. If that particular coil does NOT change the idle when unplugged, that coil is bad.

Intake shifter rod/bushings - The variable stage intake manifold's bushings wear out causing idle issues and noise. May sound like loose marbles in the intake. A company makes beefier aftermarket bushing to prevent it from happening again. Company: Gruven Parts (Vortex doesn't allow direct links) dot com

Warm Stall - covered to death in other threads. Suffice to say it sounds exactly like its name and a reflash from the dealer can fix it. Engine revs when you start it, then dies. Here is the TSB if your dealer wants to know: TSB 01-04-04 Free fix if you are still under warranty. (FYI, if you are chipped, taking it to the dealer for the software update will ERASE your chip! You can get updated code from your chip manufacturer for free to fix warmstall afflicted chipped cars) http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1297652

G62 Coolant sensor - If you have a black sensor, it WILL fail as all MkIV motors. Symptoms is a CEL and/or gauge fluctuation.. New version is green. I picked up the new green version plus o-ring at the VW dealer for $3.42, but it seems now the price has gone up to $20. Many have reported a drastic drop in gas mileage when the sensor went bad. VAG part#059919501A Location and install: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3386797

Timing Chain - *NOTE* This is only an issue if you hear noise. There are NOT many reports of failed guides on 24Vs. Higher mileage motors might have the chain tensioner or the guide rails fail. Doesn't happen anywhere near as often as the 12V VR6s as they changed the guide rail designs quite a bit. Result is bent valves, damaged heads, and a really big paperweight. Best to change as soon as it makes any strange noise (noise from the driver's side of the engine is an indicator, slight chain noise is perfectly normal, remember there are 24 valves in there). Requires removal of tranny and engine from car. 

Stretched Timing Chain - Common in Eurovans and Forced Induction engines. High heat and high loads can cause the timing chain to stretch, resulting in a mistimed engine. Using conventional oil or abusing oil change intervals is the usual cause of stretched chains. Will cause a CEL for cam/correlation errors.

Water pump - fail as the impellers are made of plastic, but more commonly the seal & bearings fail. Can break apart and clog cooling system causing cooling system inefficiency/problems. If it starts to make noise, change now! Metal impeller model is available but can be hard to find (Hepu brand). Recommended interval for changing is 80-100K depending on who you talk to. But many fail earlier and may fail as early as 20k. Change as preventive maintenance.

Auxiliary (Secondary) After-run coolant pump - The secondary water pump runs for 10 minutes after the ignition is turned off. Usually only fails on high-mileage motors. You will hear a soft "whir" from the front end. Symptoms of a failed or failing pump is no noise, very very weak noise, or pulsing. This is due to the sealed design of the electric motor, all the brushes' dust stays in the motor gumming it up. It can be repaired by taking the motor apart and cleaning in or by simply buying a new pump for around $100. It may seem like it doesn't do much, but VW is notorious for cost cutting, so why would they add a second water pump unless it did something important? It keeps the aluminum head and block cooling at the same rate to avoid warpage. VAG part# 3D0 965 561 D

Thermostat housing/coolant flange & "crack pipe" is plastic and can break and leak because of heatcycling. Best to replace with waterpump. Several companies sell metal water distribution pipes aka "crack pipes" if you want to upgrade.

CELs in general. Primarily Catalyst below efficiency threshold and oxygen sensor related codes. Most likely causes are bad MAF, bad oxygen sensors, or poor quality gasoline. Can be caused by failing converter, but is much more likely to be the previously stated reasons.

Pinging - These cars ping. Only use 91 octane to prevent most pinging. It is annoying but you have to get used to it. Sorry.

MAF sensor - Frequently go bad as with all MkIV motors. Clean often to avoid CELs. Most automotive stores sell MAF cleaner now, but electronics cleaner works just as well. The VR6 MAF sensor is the same guts as the 2.0 sensor but the housing is bigger. You can easily remove it from the new housing and mount in the old. Buy what is cheaper. (I hear now they changed the parts so now they are the same part # and come without the housing, you must reuse the old housing. Can someone else confirm?) EPC, Check Engine, & Stability Control light will illuminate when MAF codes are thrown. Also, can cause poor idle and general running problems. Unplug sensor and see if idle improves. If it does, sensor is bad.

Dual Mass Flywheels - once broken or messed up, they stay that way. They are very expensive to replace and CANNOT be resurfaced.

Oxygen sensors - they fail often but with most modern cars, they should be replaced at regular intervals. Can cause CELs. No rule of thumb has been established for replacement, but changing with sparks plug on other cars is a guideline, but I *think* they should go 60k before replacement. Shop carefully on these, many dealer will charge $200 per sensor; you can get these cheaper elsewhere.

Serpentine Belt Tensioner Pulley Bearing may start to squeal. You can save it if you act before it get worse. Repacking the bearing with grease can save the bearing and extend its life. Otherwise, you must buy a new pulley. DIY for a 12V but procedure is identical: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1138497 - 12Vs use a 7 rib belt, 24V use a 6 rib belt (24V specific). Be careful when ordering belts and pulleys! *update* Gruvenparts now offers the 24V VR6 Idler pulley (6 rib) with beefier and replaceable bearings.

Fan Fuses - The fuses for the cooling fan may pop, causing overheating and no a/c. If it continually pops, it is most likely the fans have gone bad shorting internally. Vary rarely, the fan control module or temp. sensor may be faulty. See this thread: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3126433

The cooling fan's low speed die caused by bad resistors in the fan motors (which is probably why the above fuses pop). You can just replace the fans or fix the design flaw by either adding external resistors, adding a PWM controller (new VWs have PWM controlled fans), or outright bypassing the FCM (fan controller module). Fan low speed remedy and why it happens: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3890491
More low speed info (see bottom post): http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3844295
FCM Bypass: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...onably-priced-permanant-customizable-solution.

Just a heads up - the throttle valve needs to be cleaned to prevent idle problems. Every 40K should take car of it. Simple procedure (for 12V but very similar) http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1116399 

So what did I forget? Lets build the list up! Part # and link would be helpful too. 

Engine related but more general MkIV problem: Fuel pump relay: may fail resulting in no fuel to engine. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4076745

Also a major problem: Transmission related: 02M slave cylinder in tranny fails requiring removal of tranny to fix, for a $60 part. Usually happens around 80k-110k miles.


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## MeiK (Mar 18, 2005)

*Re: Common Issues (apstguy)*

Very good thread. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Only thing i'd change is the coolant sensor can cause fluctuation on the temp gauge in your cluster as well as a CEL







...








To add:
Warmstall - When you start your engine, it revs up and stalls out. Common fix (free) at the dealer. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Baltimoron (Oct 10, 2001)

*Re: Common Issues (apstguy)*

Add to the list
Thermostat housing/coolant flange-Plastic housing can crack and leak.


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## Mr. Rictus (Sep 25, 2004)

*Re: Common Issues (CoolWhiteWolfsburg)*

I may be wrong, but don't the VR6's have a one-piece flywheel? That's why all the 1.8T guys get the VR6 clutch and flywheel packages.


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## Baltimoron (Oct 10, 2001)

*Re: Common Issues (Mr. Rictus)*

Nope VR6 is dual mass, the common 1.8T upgrade is VR6 clutch, G60 flywheel


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## apstguy (Apr 3, 2006)

I added your guys thoughts in. I forgot about the coolant pipe, don't some companies make metal ones now?


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## Veedub_junky (Aug 13, 2005)

*Re: (apstguy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *apstguy* »_I added your guys thoughts in. I forgot about the coolant pipe, don't some companies make metal ones now?

IIRC it's PAP-parts that makes the metal crack pipes. Good list and nice descriptions. Definitely DIY/FAQ material http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## MeiK (Mar 18, 2005)

*Re: (apstguy)*

The vortex sucks and won't let me post a real link - Type this into your browser:
http://www.gruvenparts.com
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I have a set that was used for 1.5K miles if anyone is interested... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## dubtek5505 (May 21, 2006)

*Re: (apstguy)*

mil lite caused for cat failure po420, po421, po422, etc. is now a reflash available at the deal if you are still under federal emmisions warranty
(8 years, 80,000 regardless of ownership)


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## Ld7w_VR (Apr 21, 2006)

*Re: Common Issues (apstguy)*

I agree that this is a great thread. It helps a lot. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## rajvosa71000 (Jun 9, 2004)

*Re: Common Issues (VR6VDub172)*

Would that warm stall issue work if they do it on a chipped car?


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## apstguy (Apr 3, 2006)

If the dealer flashes your car, the chip is reprogrammed to stock - chips based on the earlier factory coding will warm stall, most chip manufacturers now have updated software based on the newer software from VW - I have heard the chip manufacturers will reflash for free if you have warm stall. Call & ask your chip manufacturer.


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## [email protected] (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (apstguy)*

Also, if you shift too hard it is possible to damage the shifter selector arm/rod. I bent/cracked mine on my 14.3 1/4 run. Changes the shifting pattern a little so you have to do a little extra turn for each gear. Really annoying problem. Its been posted about in the past by several people and one guy had a picture he drew that showed the "new" shift pattern.


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## apstguy (Apr 3, 2006)

I was trying to keep this to engine related problems only for sake of simplicity. The 02m transmissions all have common issues as well (such as a stiff 2nd gear or 2nd gear grinding)
Update on coilpacks is posted!


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## juan8595 (Jan 16, 2004)

*Re: (apstguy)*

can a 12v crank be used on a 24v?


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## kungfoojesus (Jan 10, 2005)

yeh the crank for all the 2.8's is the same
I'd like to add, since this has happened to a few people, radiator fans chew through coolant, electrical, and vac lines when using too large/stiff of after market dogbone mounts.


_Modified by kungfoojesus at 2:56 AM 7-19-2007_


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## GuyTanatz (Aug 26, 2005)

*Re: Common Issues (apstguy)*

Add Airbag Fault. 
Code can only be reset by the dealer, not mechanic. Mine was caused by a faulty seatbelt sensor which requires the entire seat to be removed to fix == lots of labor, lots of $$$.


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## PhReE (Sep 16, 2004)

*Re: Common Issues (GuyTanatz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GuyTanatz* »_Add Airbag Fault. 
Code can only be reset by the dealer, not mechanic. Mine was caused by a faulty seatbelt sensor which requires the entire seat to be removed to fix == lots of labor, lots of $$$.

Thats MkIV specific not 24v specific.


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## juan8595 (Jan 16, 2004)

*Re: Common Issues (PhReE)*

Timing Chain - Higher mileage motors might have the chain tensioner or the guide rails fail. Usually between 100k-150k. Result is bent valves, damaged heads, and a really big paperweight. Best to change it as preventive maintenance.
my motor only has like 40k on it but its going to be apart so it cant hurt.
might go turbo so I need to know the cheapest place to get:
*timing chain or tensioners?$
*head studs?$
*and all the gaskets?$
*head spacer?$


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## ladiexmack (Jul 20, 2004)

Good info, this should be bumped. So uh bump!


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: (ladiexmack)*

mackie mackie...we need to get a chillers chat soon


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## nuskool (Jun 19, 2007)

*Re: (Attack.:Rabbit)*

This should be a sticky.
I have a question about the coil packs. How much is a new one, how do you know that's why you're stalled and how hard to replace on the road?


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## jlsgli89-03 (Aug 25, 2003)

*Re: (nuskool)*

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3490149
so what about this issue,how many of these have happened?timing chain gear. what kills me is the seviceabiltiy of it.


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## Veedub_junky (Aug 13, 2005)

*Re: (jlsgli89-03)*









So far I've heard of that problem once - that once that you referenced. If there are others, I don't think they've ever been posted. If you are worried about yours, go ahead and service/replace it. I don't think it's something the general 24v population is going to need to worry about. I know I'm not


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## 84hares (Jul 17, 2007)

oh his helps alot! i can already pinpoint 3 or 4 of those on my car


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## originalgeek (Dec 21, 2005)

Don't know if this is common. My clutch just failed after 64K. My tech found the timing chain cover had developed a leak and fouled my clutch with engine oil. My clutch looked like it had another 60K to go too...damn.
If you've got the trans out, you might want to replace this.


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## boboised209 (Nov 4, 2004)

*Re: (originalgeek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *originalgeek* »_Don't know if this is common. My clutch just failed after 64K. My tech found the timing chain cover had developed a leak and fouled my clutch with engine oil. My clutch looked like it had another 60K to go too...damn.
If you've got the trans out, you might want to replace this.

did you notice anything "not right" with your tranny before the clutch failed? like was the car displaying different driving characteristics?


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## [email protected] (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (boboised209)*

I know its not engine specific, but the 24v axles break very easily. I don't read about it happening as much on 1.8ts, especially not stock ones. Run drag radials and they will break.


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## dubdoor (Apr 23, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_I know its not engine specific, but the 24v axles break very easily. I don't read about it happening as much on 1.8ts, especially not stock ones. Run drag radials and they will break. 

in my case it didn't even take drag radials to do it...
i/c/e and spirited driving while dropped a couple of inches WILL eventually kill the drivers CV...
very common....


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## PhReE (Sep 16, 2004)

*Re: Common Issues (juan8595)*


_Quote, originally posted by *juan8595* »_Timing Chain - Higher mileage motors might have the chain tensioner or the guide rails fail. Usually between 100k-150k. Result is bent valves, damaged heads, and a really big paperweight. Best to change it as preventive maintenance.
my motor only has like 40k on it but its going to be apart so it cant hurt.
might go turbo so I need to know the cheapest place to get:
*timing chain or tensioners?$
*head studs?$
*and all the gaskets?$
*head spacer?$

Honestly i dont think this is as big of an issue as people think -- I mean even with broken tensioners the engine will still run fine in most cases, just be a bit noisy. Although if mine were broken I would porlly want to replace them yes, but since they have been redesigned and are quite a bit stronger on the 24v than the 12v (where this is a VERY common problem) I dont think this will be as big of an issue for us. Time will tell.


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_I know its not engine specific, but the 24v axles break very easily. I don't read about it happening as much on 1.8ts, especially not stock ones. Run drag radials and they will break. 

What really seems to do them in (even at stock power levels) is dropping the car quite a bit.


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## Swoops (Nov 16, 2004)

*Re: Common Issues (PhReE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PhReE* »_

What really seems to do them in (even at stock power levels) is dropping the car quite a bit.

beginning moderately low to slammed reeks havoc on the CVs.


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## Swoops (Nov 16, 2004)

*Re: Common Issues (finallyavr6)*

i have a good question. my car no matter what i do, when i start from a stop or slight roll in second gear the car bucks. its as if the throttle cuts out but its not that because i replaced the throttle body. it doesn't matter if i give it more gas or less gas or step off the clutch quicker or slower it cuts out/bucks when i start in 2nd gear. anyone know what this is? i believe its a ECU problem.


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: Common Issues (finallyavr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *finallyavr6* »_i have a good question. my car no matter what i do, when i start from a stop or slight roll in second gear the car bucks. its as if the throttle cuts out but its not that because i replaced the throttle body. it doesn't matter if i give it more gas or less gas or step off the clutch quicker or slower it cuts out/bucks when i start in 2nd gear. anyone know what this is? i believe its a ECU problem.

i get that sometimes...i think it's something to do with DBW lag from what it seems like...because if i ease on it SOOOOOOOO lightly it doesnt do it if i give the car a chance to regain it's momentum....but if the cars still on a little bit of a decel and i give it gas when it's at low revs at a stop sign doing a rolling stop...it'll buck exactly like what you say


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## MonkeyBiz (Jun 1, 2005)

*Re: (nuskool)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nuskool* »_
I have a question about the coil packs. How much is a new one, how do you know that's why you're stalled and how hard to replace on the road?


New coil pack from the dealer is about $28. They wont cause the car to stall, just run really really rough with a horrible smell from the exhaust. If you know which coilpack has gone south (#X Cylinder misfire), then the proceedure to fix takes less than 5 minutes:
With a medium flat-head screwdriver, pry the ignition wire cap off of the top of the coil-pack.
With a long (10" - 12") zip-tie, make a large loop around the top of the coil-pack. Tighten the loop around the top of the coil-pack. Pull. It should come right out of the cylinder head. Push the new coil-pack down into the cylinder head until it pops onto the spark-plug tightly. 
Replace the ignition wire cap.
You're done. Go have







and celebrate saving hundreds of $$$ by doing it yourself.

















_Modified by MonkeyBiz at 3:42 PM 1-15-2008_


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## VRrr6ick (Jan 15, 2008)

*Re: Common Issues (PhReE)*

About that Airbag Fault light: About how much did that cost you? I have the same problem which really sucks, 'cos I just spent $3,400 on a new trans., $300 on new brakes, and I still need to fix the power window on the driver's side. All of this in a matter of two weeks (I just bought the car). Is it easier and cheaper to fix the window myself at least? I'm new to the forum so any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## Veedub_junky (Aug 13, 2005)

*Re: Common Issues (VRrr6ick)*

I've been seeing an increasing number of shift fork failures on the o2m lately - both 24v and 1.8t. That could probably be added to the list


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## PhReE (Sep 16, 2004)

*Re: Common Issues (Veedub_junky)*

Be half decent with the tranny (love it and it will love u







)


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## Veedub_junky (Aug 13, 2005)

*Re: Common Issues (PhReE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PhReE* »_Be half decent with the tranny (love it and it will love u







)

Are we still talking about cars


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## golfkart (May 1, 2007)

*Re: Common Issues (Veedub_junky)*

Rear main seal oil leak.
Manual Trans Slave Cylinder going resulting in a destroyed clutch.


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## apstguy (Apr 3, 2006)

I don't think the rear main seal is that big of an issue. Not many people have problems with it, how many people do you think it has affected?
Slave cylinder is already in there at the bottom.


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## Tom Long (Sep 21, 2007)

*Re: (apstguy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *apstguy* »_I don't think the rear main seal is that big of an issue. Not many people have problems with it, how many people do you think it has affected?
Slave cylinder is already in there at the bottom.

Me, potentially...........will find out soon


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## ashevilleGTIvr6 (May 9, 2008)

*Re: Common Issues (L.I. Dan)*

did u ever figure out what causes it to buck? i have a 2000 gti vr6 and i have the same problem


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## Tom Long (Sep 21, 2007)

*Re: Common Issues (ashevilleGTIvr6)*

try to diagnose why a rod snapped and punctured a hole in my block is tough, but I'd say I either 
1) hydrolocked
or 
2) low oil pressure 
I could literally spin my water pump pulley and with the cylinder head off, the plastic impeller was just fine.........in mint condition
btw my head gasket after 82k miles was also in mint condition
In summary, all damage in cylinder 1 only


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## mwurman (May 15, 2006)

*Re: Common Issues (Tom Long)*

Yeah that 02M slave cylinder thing is a BIG BIG issues....mine went at about 65,000. I noticed the car wouldnt set into gear when you would hit the gas. It would rev then smack hard into gear as it lost pressure through a hairline crack in the cylinder. Fortunately i bought the extended warranty on the car and a $2550 rebuild of the tranny only cost me $100. Here's some pics for your viewing enjoyment...
Note the wear markings from the seals which were also letting pressure out...
















The O2M Slave Cylinder


























_Modified by mwurman at 8:27 AM 12-29-2009_


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## SLC18T (Feb 3, 2005)

*Re: Common Issues (mwurman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mwurman* »_Yeah that 02M slave cylinder thing is a BIG BIG issues....mine went at about 65,000. I noticed the car wouldnt set into gear when you would hit the gas. It would rev then smack hard into gear as it lost pressure through a hairline crack in the cylinder. Fortunately i bought the extended warranty on the car and a $2550 rebuild of the tranny only cost me $100. Here's some pics for your viewing enjoyment...
Note the wear markings from the seals which were also letting pressure out...
















The O2M Slave Cylinder

























_Modified by mwurman at 8:27 AM 12-29-2009_

You do know that you posted pictures of an automatic trans up right?


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## euro24v (May 8, 2009)

hahahahaha I was just going to post the same response - the solenoid pack is right there on the table! also the clutch and holding packs are there on the table as well.


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## RemiRokosa (Jul 12, 2008)

*Re: Common Issues (golfkart)*

What mileage?
If you're 100k(+) it might easier to get the timing chain and tensioners replaced and have that rear main seal replaced under the same repair. :thumb:


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## SLC18T (Feb 3, 2005)

*Re: Common Issues (ashevilleGTIvr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ashevilleGTIvr6* »_did u ever figure out what causes it to buck? i have a 2000 gti vr6 and i have the same problem

There's no keeping this thread on topic is there?
I am picking up an 02.5 GLI that was over heated for $1500. Planning on rings and a hone and going to do the chains, guides and tensioners while I have it apart. LWFW and new clutch.
Great thread. Lets keep it going.


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## pjung23551 (Jun 18, 2008)

04 24V VR6 GTI with 108,000 mi. 
I've gone to the dealer or have replaced myself 
(3) maf sensors. 2 went bad due to cold air. went to stock box with K&N and zero problems since even in rain.
(3) 2 OEM dogbone mounts, got fed up got a VF unit
(1) Throttle position sensor, faulty throttle control
(1) MFA dash cluster, wouldn't display anything
(1) Clutch master cylinder, clutch would stick to the floor and not come up
(1) brake master cylinder, brakes would hit the floor during panic stops. 
(1) rear brake sensor/ no symptoms, recall
(1) clutch slave / throwout bearing due to sticking
(3) battery
(1) driver and passenger side window regulators and guides, had both windows drop thru the door.
(1) headliner replaced by VW for a leaking sunroof
(1) carper replaced by VW for a sunroof that kept opening and closing by itself during a rainstorm and I had videos to prove it








(1) Green top coolant sensor
(1) shifter cable locks went at 50,000
(1) rear brake calipers were leaking/seeping at 40,000
(1) waterpump / crackpipe / thermostat due to leaking at 100000mi
(1) serpentine belt tensioner due to belt ripping off at 73,000 mi
(1) 1 coilpack of the 6 has gone bad in all this time at 102,000
(1) door fails to alarm - found out it was the trunk microswitch, at 60,000
(3) driver side window switches all dont work except 1 touch function. at 15,000, 62,000, and now 108000
(1) sunroof dial replaced due to faulty motor
(1) cruise control stalk replaced due to excessive clicking from the dash, when no blinker is set.
(1) hazard switch, because of the same reason as above
(1) shifter as reverse spring collapsed and locked me out of R at 51,000 right out of warranty. gay.
(1) fuel filter at 85,000 due to terrible idle. 
(1) intake manifold shifter rod, due to marble sound in manifold, around 64,000
(1) nime PWM controller - fans died at 73,000 and discovered fan controller probably was to blame. 
(1) TODAY - decided to remove my secondary air pump, drill out the rivets and bolt it together because it sounds like a jet fighter about to take off, during cold starts. Engine is now quiet again. 
aside from all those problems, car is AWESOME


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## VR6lover27 (May 16, 2009)

*24v GTI*

This is a great thread I just recently got a 24v and was looking for something exactly like this


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## bugdog (Oct 6, 2010)

*In need of mechanic)-:*

My daughter has a vr6 Jetta. She lives in Long Beach, Ca. Short of driving down from Oregon and bringing the car back to my mechanic, I am in need of one down there. Does anyone know of a reliable, knowledgeable, honest, and fair priced mechanic in the Long Beach area? Her tranny needs some help. 

Thanks


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

Our '03 Gti 24v just had its first and only true mechanical issue at 142,000 miles last month.

The water pump started leaking. I replaced it & the serp belt and the car is back to it's business. Almost 145k on it as of now. 

It's bone stock outside of an R32 shift piece swapped onto the trans and a C2 flash on the ecu last March because I loved mine (on my R32) so much.

It received spark plugs at 80k w/ coil packs to be safe. Green coolant sensor and new BLS just to avoid any issues as well. Also did new Bilstein touring class shocks at that time. It threw a intermittent code for a stuck thermostat a few years back that never came back, but I replaced it while doing the CTS since it is cheap.

The car runs just as well as it did from day one. No rust, no dents, no nada. Just gets regular oil changes, brakes, tires when it needs it.

As a matter of fact, I just bought a set of cams to put in it because the price was too good to pass up. By the time I put them in, the car will have over 150,000 on it most likely. I will not be touching the tensioners, chain, clutch etc until they wear out. (forever). My mk3 2.slow work car has almost 185,000 on the orig clutch.


:thumbup::beer:


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

I noticed you wrote at the end, that a slave in the tranny fails, im looking to buy a 2003 gli, with 232,000, clean car, but has a bad tranny, i know the mileage is high, but i do the work myself, and the car is dirt cheap, coould that be the issue with this car?


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## apstguy (Apr 3, 2006)

With over 200k+ miles, the tranny is likely bent or broke a fork. This can be simple (replacing the fork), or useless to rebuild (got caught in the gears, trashed)


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## CL111583 (Mar 21, 2003)

pjung23551 said:


> >(1) MFA dash cluster, wouldn't display anything


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## A216VCTi (Mar 11, 2002)

So far: 

Bought the car needing brakes, tires and suspension all around. Upgraded to 12.3 up front and the bigger vented discs in the rear. Also needed MAF. 

On my 3rd MAF. 

Replaced Thermostat, CTS, MAF and Thermostat housing. Installed TT Cams and Uni Software. All installed at the same time. Now it has some issue with cold starts. Misfires at low RPM (Idle to 1500 RPM) until it's warm. 

Drivers side axle was bad since I bought it. Replaced the axle with a aftermarket and it was clicking by the time I pulled out of the garage. Bought a raxle and no issues since. 

Replaced Plugs twice and coilpacks once since I bought it. 

Going to do fuel filter and waterpump sometime soon.


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## abydielsgli (May 8, 2003)

apstguy said:


> Dual Mass Flywheels - once broken or messed up, they stay that way. They are very expensive to replace and CANNOT be resurfaced.


 idk if your talking about when the little metal plate breaks off of it. 
is that what you are talking about? 

because if so that happened to my car in 2007 and what i did to fix it was tack weld it back together and i havent had any problems since. 
all i did was take out my oil pan and tack it right there once you take the fly wheel shield off.


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## VR6lover27 (May 16, 2009)

*Fuel Filter*

Should I change/clean my fuel filter. My buddy said that he cleaned his and got an increase in the mpg's. Is this true?


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## PhReE (Sep 16, 2004)

PowerDubs said:


> Our '03 Gti 24v just had its first and only true mechanical issue at 142,000 miles last month.
> 
> The water pump started leaking. I replaced it & the serp belt and the car is back to it's business. Almost 145k on it as of now.
> 
> ...




Yeah the 24v VR6's are THE best motors VW ever put in a MkIV, and some of the best motors VW ever made overall IMHO. 

However, on the chains, unlike 12v's the guides don't tend to break but I have seen/heard of quite a few issues of the chain getting a bit stretched which will eventually start throwing cam/crank correlation codes. My car was throwing a cam/crank correlation code for probably almost 2 years, then I did both chains and all the guides and am back to being code free!

Well, except I occasionally get a code that says torque limit exceeded, but honestly I don't know why/how that comes up (there is no actual torque sensor it's all calculated based on maps) but I wonder why the code comes up, it's kind of strange but funny at the same time. I have never gotten a good (technical) answer on this. I bet Jeff would be able to give me a decent explanation.


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

It's the car's way of telling you that it's had enough of the power and that the engine would be much more at home in a b5 s4 chassis. Just Sayin


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## PhReE (Sep 16, 2004)

Lieutenant Dan said:


> It's the car's way of telling you that it's had enough of the power and that the engine would be much more at home in a b5 s4 chassis. Just Sayin


Many years ago my 'dream' was to turbo my 24v, never thought I would actually achieve that one. Nowadays, my 'dream' is for a 24v VRT B5 S4, so we'll see how we do. :thumbup: :laugh:


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## DUB_MANGv2 (Oct 28, 2008)

did someone say chillers?

the only REAL issue i had with my 24v was the SAI. that p044 code or whatever, for incorrect airflow. usually its ALWAYS the tiny rubber hose (vacuum) that wears out before the pump actually fails..


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## jefswat (Jun 10, 2008)

Could add fuel pump relay to the list. If you know the symptoms it can save you a lot of time and potentially money if you go to look there first (you may also win the occasional bet with the mechanic :laugh There is absolutely no reason to have to dealer fix this for you, unless you aren't sure that is the problem or you don't want to hurt you back trying to reach under the dash


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## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

Another DIY for fixing the cooling fan issues.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...nably-priced-permanant-customizable-solution.


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## apstguy (Apr 3, 2006)

Thanks for the writeup! Added to the appropriate section.


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## roadie_jay (Nov 5, 2011)

*Bosch o2 sensor - 50 bucks at O'Reilly's*

I found the upstream Bosch wideband sensor at O'Reilly's for 50 bucks. I have a store in my neighborhood, but they do online orders too. Don't search on o2 sensor, it won't come up.


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## reflex vr6 (Jan 27, 2011)

Recently had the airbag fault appear. Waiting for winter break to be over so I can track the code with the nice scan tools we have . 

Other than that no issues as of right now and couldn't be any happier with the 24v vr


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## CAH8 (Dec 22, 2011)

This is a very helpful thread. Is getting the water pump replaced a big job? What would it cost?


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## tinkvr6 (Sep 24, 2008)

thanks guys for this thread its a great help.....but I have had my vr6 for a while now and love it but just recently I have been chasing a the coolant code. I have gone thru 3 green temp sensors, the crack pipe is changed as well as the thermostat and housing....and 2 fans and fan relay switch..... now I dont have any leaking coolant and I checked the water pump when I had the car apart and it was fine...any ideas??? :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::screwy::screwy::what::what:


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## VR6 GLX Man (May 20, 2008)

I know this thread is a few months old, but looking at the list of issues it doesn't look too much different from the 12v, only reason I'm posting here is because I've been thinking about getting into a either a gti 24v or jetta 24v. Never wanted to get rid of the 12v, but I did for circumstances. Just felt like sharing, sorry if anyone gets annoyed by this being bumped.


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## builtvw (Sep 20, 2009)

apstguy said:


> I haven't been able to find a list of common issues to 24v VR6 motors so I will go ahead and start one. (Just as a note, most of the problems are minor, 24V VR6s are reliable motors)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


can anyone tell me the chance of piston damage if a chain breaks?


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## 24vGTiVR6 (Sep 14, 2010)

builtvw said:


> can anyone tell me the chance of piston damage if a chain breaks?


a few valves will probably melt into the top of some pistons and you'll probably break a couple rods as well, depending on your RPM / speed when the chains snap.


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## MachtSchnell (Oct 31, 2010)

24vGTiVR6 said:


> a few valves will probably melt into the top of some pistons and you'll probably break a couple rods as well, depending on your RPM / speed when the chains snap.


It's far more likely that bent valves will occur in only a few cylinders, and not across the entire engine's valvetrain. Not really sure what you mean be melting valves into the tops of pistons, because the melting point of steel is far higher than the aluminum pistons, and there would either be deformation or cracking on the top of damaged pistons. As for connecting rods bending a couple would most likely the worst case scenario, but I don't think they'll break as easy as one may think. 

Again this is all relevant to a multitude of variables like rpm, speed, and clutch engagement. 

My neighbor had a MkI 16v Gti when I was growing up... He got it for basically nothing because the PO had the timing belt break on it. Needless to say he put a new belt on it and drove it for a couple years and sold it for profit. One of my friends just had his timing belt break on his SVT Focus, and put a new belt on and it runs well enough to to rely on for a daily driver. Both are interference motors.

Timing chain failures are not that common, and like their timing belt counterparts most damage will occur in the head/valvetrain. But damage is not always severe. I've searched and haven't seen any pics of 24v vr6's with broken timing chains and associated damage due to the chain/s breaking.


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## blkmk4vr6 (Jan 14, 2013)

Okay so I am having the classic 24v VR6 "warm stall" problem. I have contacted all 3 dealers local to me, given them the TSB and not a single one of them has ever heard of it. I am in Charlotte, NC, anyone have any ideas?


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## lovemydub (Nov 19, 2004)

blkmk4vr6 said:


> Okay so I am having the classic 24v VR6 "warm stall" problem. I have contacted all 3 dealers local to me, given them the TSB and not a single one of them has ever heard of it. I am in Charlotte, NC, anyone have any ideas?


 ECU tune will fix that...like Unitronic


Sent from my iPhone


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## blkmk4vr6 (Jan 14, 2013)

lovemydub said:


> ECU tune will fix that...like Unitronic
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone


 
Thats the direction I'm headed, but wanted to see if the dealer could remedy it first


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## R32 Lego (Oct 7, 2010)

i am not sure if what i am having is warm stall or not. but when i am driving my 2003 jetta Gli turbo with the A/C on and down shifting or just starting to slow down it stall out . its only happened a few time and every time it has happened . i have been driving with the A/C on. the car dose not stall when at idle and the A/C is on. no light come on in the dash indicating there is a problem trying to figure it out need help . any thoughts on with it could be ? i also have a UM tune


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## Doverton75 (Mar 14, 2012)

*Clutch problem*

Hey guys, wondering if you guys could help me out? I was driving the other day and when shifting from first to second my clutch pedal when straight to the floor. I have to phyiscally pick the pedal up off the floor. There was no smoke or sounds leading up to this. Just went out of nowhere was running perfectly fine on my entire way home them boom. I checked to make sure everything was hooked up correctly and bled the slave cylinder. Still no pressure. Also made sure there were no leaks either. Any idea what this could be?


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

Probably the throw out bearing / slave cylinder. Probably oiled down your clutch disk as well. Will require dropping the trans.

Technically could be the master cylinder but that is rare.


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## Doverton75 (Mar 14, 2012)

PowerDubs said:


> Probably the throw out bearing / slave cylinder. Probably oiled down your clutch disk as well. Will require dropping the trans.
> 
> Technically could be the master cylinder but that is rare.


Okay thanks. Now could the slave cylinder still be bad if it's bleeding correctly? How could i go about diagnoseing witch part it could be?


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

It's not bleeding correctly if there is no pressure...


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## Seanele (Aug 24, 2002)

Car has no white smoke but I can smell the smoke. 
I was only couple of feet away from the exhaust when it happened. 

Is this means some issue with the engine? (Engine runs smooth and no engine lights)


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## A216VCTi (Mar 11, 2002)

What do you mean by smell the smoke?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Seanele (Aug 24, 2002)

I guess since there was no smoke, i shouldn't say i smell the smoke. 
What i mean is that i smell exactly like when a car has visible white smoke coming out from the exhaust.


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## A216VCTi (Mar 11, 2002)

Take a bath. 

Jk, if you smell a sweet smell from the exhaust, you're burning coolant. Could be a head gasket. You should have a tech do a cylinder compression test and a coolant compression test.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Seanele (Aug 24, 2002)

thx. 
i will do both compression test.


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## A216VCTi (Mar 11, 2002)

Actually i think a leak down test might be more informative 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Jimmysvr6 (Aug 6, 2015)

GuyTanatz said:


> Add Airbag Fault.
> Code can only be reset by the dealer, not mechanic. Mine was caused by a faulty seatbelt sensor which requires the entire seat to be removed to fix == lots of labor, lots of $$$.


^^^
l l l

not exactly true im a mechanic and as long as you have the right tools you can reset it. there is a scan tool I bought off a tool truck 2 years ago and I can reset all codes for all makes and models. but it cost me 300$ it an Autel scan tool, its worth getting vurses going to audi volkswagon or Volvo just to reset a code and pay for it. ( ps im sorry I bombarded your post)


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## [email protected] (Oct 29, 2019)

Does anybody know why my vr6 24v cranks but won’t start , This happened right after I replaced the coils and spark plugs , I also replaced the gas pump , oxygen sensor and pcv breather hose ???


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