# Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it!



## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

Well, I went and did it! 
The automatic was getting weaker by the day and with a 3 day weekend coming up I decided it was time to swap the automatic transmission for a manual. I’ve been looking at doing this for over a year and had gathered all the info and parts I needed. Interestingly enough, if you do a search on the Vortex you’ll find numerous threads that mention swaps, some that even list most of what has to be done but NONE are comprehensive. So this post will be long and complete.
The short story is is a pleasure to drive now. Handles quicker, accelerates better (duh!) and is more of a GTI than ever. Even milage appears to be better. I figure I removed 150-200 pounds of auto related crap from the car and put in only 100. And I lost 10 lbs myself doing it!
Took two days by my self. Nothing hard. Some a little frustrating.

The Recipient: 85 Cabby aka “Buffy”, with 3 spd auto, 100mm axle set. Power steering.
The Donor: 83 GTI aka Moljinar, 5 spd manual FK tranny with 90mm axle set. Manual steering.
*The list of stuff:* 
1.	Manual tranny, 020 type. 100mm axles or 90mm axle set. Both work (we’ll discuss this later)
2.	All clutch stuff. Clutch disc, pressure plate, flywheel, flywheel bolts, crankshaft bolts.
3.	Shift linkages. All links and rods. Including the shifter lever, the ball socket it goes in, the rod it attaches to that runs the length of the exhaust tunnel and the bracket that holds the nylon bushing the rod runs thru. Shift knob. It is best to remove all pieces from a donor vehicle so you can get it all and not miss anything. Then you can replace the few parts that may be too worn.
4.	Clutch cable.
5.	Speedo cable.
6.	Starter for manual tranny car. The auto starter is completely different , it even spins in the wrong direction!
7.	Clutch pedal.
8.	Pedal bracket for manual car. There are issues here with ones from older donor cars. You can buy the exact bracket you need from the dealer and I suggest you do.
9.	You will need a new/different steering rack. The rack in an auto-equipped VW doesn’t have the bracket to bolt the shift linkages to. Get a rack from a manual- equipped donor vehicle, preferably an identical model car. Early rabbit models use a different u-joint where they attach to the steering column. You can also change from power steering to manual steering at this point if so desired. 
10.	Backup switch plug with wire pigtail for rewiring backup lites.

*The Procedure:* 
1. While the car is on the ground use a long breaker bar or impact wrench and break loose the right and left front axle nuts. 
2. Then loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels .
3. Jack up the car and put on jack stands to make it secure.
4. Remove the wheels.
5. Remove the 2 bolts that attach the strut to the steering hub (on each side.)
6. Remove the tie-rod ends from the steering hub. I use a puller. 
7. Remove the tie-rod ends from the steering rack rods. Make note of how far in the ends were attached. We’ll need to know this later to help in realigning the toe-out.
8. Pull the axles out of each hub. Swing the hub to the side and out to make room. The axles my need some gentle persuasion to get loose. 
8. Remove the battery. Undo the ground connection(s) to the auto tranny.
9. Remove the starter. Undo the starter connections. Remove speedometer cable. Remove throttle cable. Remove shift cable. 
10. Remove driver side engine mount bolt.
11. Remove front engine mounts.
12. Remove rear motor mounts. This will leave the engine and tranny hanging down at an angle. This can stretch, pull apart some vacuum connections and electrical wiring. Take heed!
13. Remove two bolts from tranny to engine on the top of the tranny.
14. Remove lower bolts from tranny to engine.
15. Put jack under tranny so it won’t fall to far. Pull tranny back from engine. When the input shaft clears the torque converter it will drop suddenly. Be ready for it.
16. Once removed pull the tranny out from under the car. 
17. Throw it away! (just kidding, you may need the axles)
18. Undo the u-joint from the steering rack to column. Separate if possible.
19. Remove the power steering hoses from the rack. This will make a major puddle if not ready for it! (If you already have manual steering ignore this part.
20. Remove the steering rack from the car. You do this by sliding the rack all the way over to the passenger side as far as you can get it. Push the steering rod on the driver’s side in to the rack as far as it will go. There will be just enough room to pull the rod out thru the hole it goes thru and then move it aside. Now move the rack to the driver’s side and remove the other rod from its hole. You should now have a loose rack lying on the ground.
21. In the car interior remove the console and lay it aside. 
22. Remove the shifter plate (3 small bolts) Undo the shifter cable from the shifter. 
23. Detach the two red wires from the switch. This is your starter wire from the ignition to the starter. You must connect these two wires to get voltage to the starter (or run a brand new wire, but why?)
24. Detach the other two wires. This is the backup-light wiring and will have to be dealt with later to get them working.
25. Remove the shifter mechanism from the car. Throw it at least 50 ft. from the vehicle. 
26. Remove the shifter cable from the car. I found this to be impossible. So I got a hacksaw and cut the cable in half. That made it possible.
27. Remove torque converter from drive plate. Doesn’t remind you one of those things that curlers throw down the ice in the Olympics? 28. Remove the drive plate from the crankshaft. Save the bolts!!!!
29. Remove the front motor mount for reuse. Remove the rear motor mount for reuse. Remove the driver side motor mount for reuse. Unless you have these from the donor car. 
30. Back in the car interior you need to start removing the pedal bracket. It is held on by three (3) bolts behind the brake booster. Remove these form inside the engine compartment. These are a pain to get off. Very slow process. 
Under the bracket there is one screw that must be removed that holds it to the underside of the dash. The bracket is also help to the steering column by a spring clip that is quite a pain to undo. There is also a clip on the brake shaft that attaches to the pedal, remove that too. The bracket should now be loose and ready to remove. Undo the throttle cable from the throttle pedal while you’re under there.
Your car is halfway there!
* Intermission! Go have a beer and a sandwich!*
Do things in this order for an easier install!
*Steering rack* 
A.	Reinstall the new powersteering rack. Opposite procedure as removing it. Make sure you have the brackets for the shift linkage attached to it. 
B.	Make sure the u-joint is hooked back up. If you have a Rabbit rack and a Cabby (later model) column the two won’t mate. You’ll need the Rabbit column or the Rabbit joint or something. In short make sure your rack is compatible.
C.	Reinstall the PS hoses.
D.	Refill the PS reservoir as needed.
*Manual Tranny* 
1.	Attach the pressure plate to the crankshaft. Make sure your bolts are locktited well and torqued correctly!! See discussion on bolts before you do this. Major problems can arise (don’t ask how I know this) Before you do this you might want to replace the rear main seal.
2.	Put the clutch plate inside the flywheel and bolt up. Locktite the threads well and torque properly. Use the centering tool to make sure the clutch is centered correctly. Torque according to the diagram in the manual.
3.	Put the manual tranny on a jack and wheel it under the car. Without going in to much detail here you need to get the tranny lined up with the clutch bushing and the dowel rods on the engine block lined up with the holes in the tranny. This is a huge wrestling match to get it done. But then I was never a weight lifter so maybe you’ll find it easier than me.
4.	Once lined up install the top tranny to engine bolts and tighten. Put the bottom bolts in and tighten. Remount the starter and front motor mount and tighten.
5.	Using a jack lift the rear of the tranny enough that the driver’s side motor mount slips into the mount. Reinsert bolt and tighten. 
6.	With the engine and tranny now back together start attaching the ground straps, starter wires etc. Be thorough!
7.	Check for vacuum lines that have been pulled out of whack. Major culprits are the brake booster and air bypass hoses.
8.	Fill the tranny as per the Bentley. DO NOT RUN IT DRY! Running with too little can fry your 5th gear as well.
*Pedal Cluster* 
1.	Take new pedal cluster and install in the reverse order. Here’s the lowdown on what has to be done in addition. 
2.	The manual pedal cluster has a small tube on it that holds the end of the clutch cable. If this unit is not new check the welds for cracks, many of them crack and leave you stranded. If cracked replace/repair as needed. 
3.	If the bracket is from an older car be aware that it’s not a perfect fit. The slot on the top of the original is about 4 inches long and helps get it lined up and installed. The one from my Rabbit had a slot only an inch long and made life hell. So I filed the notch open another ½ inch and that was enough to get it installed.
4.	The brake pedal on an older bracket has a pin that holds the pedals in line and is larger in diameter than the Cabby’s. So you can’t reuse the Cabby brake pedal. The Rabbit brake pedal has a curve to it that can complicate using the connector that’s on the end of the brake shaft. Use the Rabbit pedal, knock out the connecting pin (small1/4” or so) and use the connector and pin that came with the Cabby. Tight fit but works.
5.	Clutch pedal. Ya gotta have one. Make sure it’s compatible with the hinge pin of the bracket you’re using. Hook up cable as usual.
6.	There’s a spring clip that holds the bracket to the steering column. It’s a bitch to get it back together. In fact I still haven’t so don’t worry about it too much.
7.	If you loosened the steering column when you removed the original bracket then tighten it back up. 
8.	Bolt back up to the brake booster. It’ll be a “bit” easier than removing it. WARNING!!! There is a bracket that is L shaped and goes behind the brake booster bracket and it is impossible to see at first. If it slips down it will block the pedal cluster bolts from going all the way thru the firewall. I lost a good half hour to that crap.
9. Rehook up the brake light switch. If you're using a Rabbit pedal bracket the Cabby switch won't work. But if you file one of the two tabs off of it and cut down the other it'll fit ok. Another good reason to get a Cabby bracket in the first place!

*Shift Linkage* 
1.	Bolt the linkage brackets to the steering rack. It may already have them bolted on. The one with the bushing can be replaced and I’d suggest doing so. It’s cheap and will go a long way to tighten up the shifter.
2.	Install the shifter rod and lever assembly. It should bolt down to the original holes. Before you do you might want to sand and paint the shift rod and polish or paint the shift lever too. Where the shift lever attaches to the shift rod there are two bushings. They’re identical in size to some of those supplied in the shifter bushing kit from VW and others. I found significant slop there. Replacing those bushings made a ton of difference. You never hear about changing those. Also the ball bushing that the shift lever goes thru is also available and getting a new one is a grand idea.
3.	Attach all the linkage parts and test. Align the shifter as described in the Bentley. If you need a 15mm spacer for the reverse lockout setting use a standard cassette tape case. Works perfectly.
4.	You DID use all new bushings didn’t you? You DID put in a short shifter kit didn’t you?
5.	Test. Readjust as necessary.
6.	You will need a new cover plate for the console. The old one for the automatic obviously won’t work. Find one in a junkyard (the Rabbit GTI console is a different size) Or make your own. Or buy one from Langford!
*Suspension* 
1.	Reattach the axles on both sides. Put the nuts on. We’ll tighten them later.
2.	Reattach the tie-rod ends. Try to get them back to where they were before we removed them. Attach the tie-rod ends to the steering hub. Don’t forget to cotter pin them!
3.	Reattach the hub to the strut mount. Try to get the camber set back to where it was originally. Tighten as required.
4.	At this point I try to start the car which is still on jack stands. Unless you frigged something up it should start up ok. Test the clutch and shifter for proper operation. It’s easier to do it now than when it’s back down on the ground. If everything passes then put the wheels back on and remove the jack stands. 
5.	Tighten the lug nuts to spec. 
6.	Tighten the axle nuts to spec. Again, a very large breaker bar and a length of pipe might be useful. 
Now start it up and drive away.
*Gotchas!!! * 
Here are several things you should watch out for. 
1.	While the engine is tilted severely many things can pull loose. I’ve already mentioned vacuum hoses. Also there may be ground straps on the back of the engine that will need to be reattached. I fried a wire in my dashboard because it became the only drain wire for the car. Turns out a strap from the firewall to the head had come off. 
2.	Crankshaft bolts. My bolts were from a 83 GTI that did not use the newer stretchy bolts. So they needed 55 ft-lbs of torque. Unfortunately I read the 85 Cabby manual that said to use 30 ft-lbs (for the new type of bolts) So the bolts backed out about 200 miles later and I found my self stuck along side the road. No damage fortunately but I spent another 4 hours removing things so I could retorque the suckers. And put waaay more LockTite on! Know what bolts you’re using and what they need for torque!
3.	Axles. This is a confusing issue for many. The 85 up Cabby uses 100mm axle flanges and thicker axles. They also feature larger CV joints. The hub on a Cabby is machined for these CV joints to clear. The splines inside the hub are identical to the CV joint found with the “90mm” axle set. If the tranny you want to use have 90mm flanges and you want to use your existing 100mm axle set you’ll need to change the flanges. Some trannys can’t be changed over. If you have the 90mm axle set with the tranny you can install the whole thing with no problem. It’ll bolt right up. You CANT put a 100mm axle set in a hub designed for a 90mm set though. Just in case you were thinking about putting your old automatic in your old Rabbit.  Don’t mix and match CV joints and axles. They have different lengths and can bind up.
4. This may sound strange but your starter needs two (2) bolts to work properly. I lost the bottom bolt and installed it with only one. Since it’s a concentric fit into the hole I knew it wasn’t needed to center it. However, it cranked like a very poor tired starter on an automatic cabby. I was getting ready to buy a new one when I finally put a bolt in . The extra grounding did the trick. It now cranks like new. 
5.	This is a good time to remove the oil pan and clean and repaint it. I’m happy to say my oil pan was clean enough inside to eat off of. Over 200K miles of good living I guess. No sludge anywhere. 
If I can think of anything else I’ll add it later. Meanwhile I have many auto tranny parts for sale including a very new starter!
…0ran…

I'm adding in comments from BROKE about getting the necessary clutch/flywheel items you need.

_Quote, originally posted by *Broke* »_
"Can I get the parts from the automatic?"
None of that can come form the auto. Get a clutch kit, that will have the clutch disc, pressure plate, release plate and retaining spring. Also get a clutch install kit. That will have the flywheel bolts, crankshaft bolts, a clutch centering tool, a new TO bearing, green end cap, input shaft seal, pushrod seal and bushing, and a rear crankshaft seal. http://www.germanautoparts.com.../55/1
The flywheel can be bought new, or a used one could be had from the junkyard, but it might need turned to be any good. New lightened units are also available. http://www.germanautoparts.com.../87/1
Broke



_Modified by Moljinar at 9:28 AM 10-22-2007_


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## -vertigo- (Jan 13, 2005)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (Moljinar)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Fingers tired?


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## Black_cabbie (Jul 16, 2003)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (-vertigo-)*

Where are the photos?????????


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (Black_cabbie)*

Still in my camera. Not much to see really but I have a few.


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## Black_cabbie (Jul 16, 2003)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (Moljinar)*

In the FAQ it goes! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## kamzcab86 (Feb 14, 2002)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (-vertigo-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-vertigo-* »_http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

x2!


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## cabriofam (Dec 21, 2004)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (kamzcab86)*

I'm so happy that you exist, I've been waiting for some one to post a how to for this. I'm just wondering about the trannys that will match. My buddy is swaping out his GTI 5 spd 8v for a VR so I may be able to snag his axels and tranny...thoughts?


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (cabriofam)*

If it's a 020 tranny then it shoudl fit with no problem. But I'll let everyone else tell you which ones are which. I don't have a list handy.


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## sleshVW (Aug 14, 2002)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (Moljinar)*

Oran,
Great comprehensive writeup. Though my car is already a manual transmission, I found myself reading and saying "wow even I could do this with this kind of writeup."


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## theoldkid (Feb 9, 2005)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (Moljinar)*

Really great write-up. It's now printed out for future reference. Thanks!!


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (theoldkid)*

Awesome, and congratulations on a good job. The one saving grace of my little one is the Manual trans. If you haven't considered a MissingLinkz linkage, do so the minute you have any slop. You will kiss yourself.


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (atomicalex)*

I just added another item to the original post. I'll repeat it here...
9. Rehook up the brake light switch. If you're using a Rabbit pedal bracket the Cabby switch won't work. But if you file one of the two tabs off of it and cut down the other it'll fit ok. Another good reason to get a Cabby bracket in the first place!
Also new pics!
Tranny size comparison...








Brake pedal differences...









Axle removal...








Automatic driven plate before removal...








Don't call OSHA...!


















_Modified by Moljinar at 11:00 AM 6-9-2005_


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## hopesanddreams (Apr 22, 2002)

outstanding. this forum is great for everyone going the extra mile to document their tricks and tips so they can share it with fellow dubbers! i tip a glass to everyone on here. (i'll be submitting an A/C removal FAQ as soon as i can get my hands on a scanner and figure out how to post pics)


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: (hopesanddreams)*

Someone asked what I used to do this job so I labeled a pic for you...
http://p250.merlyyn.com/images/tools.jpg


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## mgyver74 (Dec 10, 2003)

*Re: (Moljinar)*

Great writeup dude! Not that I'd ever buy and automatic car, but if I did this is one job that would get done ASAP








One thing... On this picture, it looks like the entire assembly is being suspended by the brake line...That's prolly not a good idea, I'd remove the caliper and hang it up on something (strut spring?) so that the line can't get damaged..








Just my 0.02....Awesome writeup!!!!







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## fat biker (Feb 16, 2001)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (Moljinar)*

Moljinar,
Sir, Well Done!
fat biker


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (fat biker)*

Cool......I don't really like automatics....personal choice, I be a toffin me hat to ye.




















































































Burrrrrrrrrrrrrrrp


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## the_mad_rabbit (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (mgyver74)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mgyver74* »_Great writeup dude! Not that I'd ever buy and automatic car, but if I did this is one job that would get done ASAP








One thing... On this picture, it looks like the entire assembly is being suspended by the brake line...That's prolly not a good idea, I'd remove the caliper and hang it up on something (strut spring?) so that the line can't get damaged..








Just my 0.02....Awesome writeup!!!!







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I do this all the time- as long as you do it carefully it's fine since it's just hanging there. 
The brake line can EASILY support the weight.


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: (the_mad_rabbit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *the_mad_rabbit* »_I do this all the time- as long as you do it carefully it's fine since it's just hanging there. 
The brake line can EASILY support the weight.

I agree! Plus it you look carefully you'll see the real weight is being caried by the lower ball joint adn control arm. The brake line only prevents it from swinging wider.


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## theguy6989 (May 3, 2006)

*Re: (Moljinar)*

Hey I have a 1987 manual cabriolet will all the parts from this swap into my 1992 auto cabriolet?


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: (theguy6989)*

I don't know why not!


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## sehaare (Aug 4, 2003)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (Moljinar)*

Oran,
I'll just echo the rest Great Job!!! I think the write up might have been harder that the actual work








Steve


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## mk2allday (Apr 27, 2007)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (Moljinar)*

how much did the whole swap cost?


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (mk2allday)*

I found the power steering rack for $30, I already had the tranny which is easily found for lerss than $100. The pedal cluster I pulled from a junk car.


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## maushaus (Mar 25, 2003)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (Moljinar)*

oran...excellent write-up!
five star rating for readability and content!!!








peace, kelly


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## Random_Task (Oct 29, 2006)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (maushaus)*

hopefully finishing this up tomorrow! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif it took me a little longer than you. probly because i didnt know you had to unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel. i just kept wiggling the trans. as for the steering and pedal stuff, if you swap ALL of the steering from the GTI (including the column) it works, you then have to delete the pump tho. while the columns are out of the cars, it makes the pedal cluster removal WAAAAY eaiser, i didnt have to make the slot on top of mine longer. 
thank you for this writeup, if i didnt read it, i probably would have sold my cabby.
to the texers: sorry to bump such an old post, but i thought the steering imput was pretty important.
-T


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## 0dd_j0b (Sep 22, 2007)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (Random_Task)*

and to the kid who wrote this one up above, we did finish! woot


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (0dd_j0b)*

Kid? Who you calling a kid, kid!? I'm 56 years young!


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## LOVINandDUBBIN (Dec 14, 2006)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (Random_Task)*

very nice write up man, post that ish in the FAQ


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (dubbinandlovin returns)*

Actually it's listed in the MK1 FAQ. I forgot to post it in the Cabby FAQ.


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## Holden McNeil (Jul 26, 2004)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (Moljinar)*

This is one of the most useful threads I've ever seen on the Vorteks! Thanks for writing this process up! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I'll be converting my latest project to 5spd and manual steering this winter and a print out will be sitting right next to my Bentley manual....


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## Legoguy (Sep 18, 2002)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (Holden McNeil)*

I almost wish I saw this *before* I did my 8V Auto -> 16V Manual swap. But you're missing one thing! 
Which wires to hook up to reverse light switch? Surprisingly, the auto neutral safety switch isn't mentioned anywhere in the Bentley wiring diagrams, and that's where the automatic's switch is; I guess I'll just need to trace wires..


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (Legoguy)*

My deep dark secret is that I never got around to wiring my backup switch.








The wires for the auto switch are below the shifter console. You'll see them when replacing the shifter. Extend those wires thru the firewall to thew tranny's backup switch. There are two different kinds of backup switches depends on which tranny you have.


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## tolusina (Oct 19, 2004)

*FV-QR*

Broke shows the reverse light switch and wire terminals for manual trans reverse light switches here......
http://www.brokevw.com/reverseswitch.html


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## FrankenCabby (Dec 7, 2008)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (Moljinar)*

Howdy from the Rocky Mountains.
New Guy to the Vortex but I've been lurking for a long time. My son & I have been involved in the Denver DCI but last year he bought a 02 GTI & sold his 86 GTI. He kinda lost his interest in workin on old cars.
I had an 80 Rocco but it was beat to death & had a cracked right front Suspension Mount. The previous owner gave it flying lessons. Busted Upper Shock Mounts, Oil Pan & a cracked front frame. 
We got it running but it was Hail Damaged & very ugly. I started looking for a Transplant Candidate. I found a 89 Cabby with a Dead Auto Trans, Blown Motor, a nice Body with a good top.
Since the Rocco's motor was good, I decided to make 1 car out of 2. The Rocco's Trans was an FF so I had to drive it 1 gear lower than you would expect to get any fun out of it. 
I figured I was in for a penny in, for a pound & located a GTI Trans. I had it rebuilt at Denver Transmission with a Pelquin Limited Slip Washer, all new Syncros, Bearings & a 5th Gear from the FF. I replaced the Flywheel with a lightened one & Sachs Clutch. So, that makes it 1 car out of 3. So the name is FrankenCabby.
Old Dead Motor came out along with AutoTrans, A/C, Power Steering & the whole front suspension. THese parts joined the Rocco, thank you Cars for Kids. 
GTI Trans has 100 mm Axles, so I replaced them & the front Hub Bearings & 10.1 Discs. I found a thread with a discussion on the 100 mm Axles rubbing on the inside of the Hub Carrier. Careful Grinding & repeated assembly & all worked fine.
Reassembly of the Motor, Trans, Front Suspension, Axles, Hubs & Discs followed. Oh yeah, Manual Trans Steering Rack to replace the P/S Rack & to provide the Shift Linkage Mounting points. A Missing Linkz Shift Linkage Kit went in & she back on the ground!!!
Pedal Cluster replacement pointed out the Dash Mount bolt for Cluster was no longer spot welded & I spent a couple of hours getting it out. Rented a Welder to put a new one back in. Since I was worried about the Welder cooking the Gauges, out came the Dash & all Gauges. Wires are verywhere.
Your Proceedure was a great help but I'm stuck. The Rocco Motor is 9 years older than the Cabby & I have a lot of wires that go I don't know where & an assortment of Sensors that do I don't know what. 
All this is complicated by my schedule. This project is now 4 years in the making & my wife is sure it will never move under its own power again.
I did notice that you didn't mention the Speedo Drive Gear. THe AutoTrans Drive Gear wouldn't work with the 5 Speed. I think I need one from a GTI, Orange/Red Gear.
Maybe I should be looking in one of the Engine Swap Threads but thought I would start here. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## tolusina (Oct 19, 2004)

*FV-QR*

Pics of the loose wiring might help.


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## FrankenCabby (Dec 7, 2008)

Good Point. I will shoot some of the Engine Compartment when I get back in town. I'm in Seattle, Wa this week. I'll post them over the week end.


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## FrankenCabby (Dec 7, 2008)

Sorry, it's been -5 deg since Saturday AM. My garage is frozen. I'll get some shots as soon as the temp makes it above 20.


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## FrankenCabby (Dec 7, 2008)

*Loose wiring in Cabby Engine Compartment*

Well, it finally got over 20 deg today so I was able to get some Pics. 
Maybe some history will help. The Cabby is an 89 & had A/C, PS & an Automatic. THey were all dumped with the Cabby's Engine. So, there's bound to be some wires with no where to go.
I'll post the pics as soon as I figure out how. Gotta call my kid.









_Modified by FrankenCabby at 4:11 PM 12-23-2008_

_Modified by FrankenCabby at 4:23 PM 12-23-2008_


_Modified by FrankenCabby at 4:26 PM 12-23-2008_


----------



## tolusina (Oct 19, 2004)

*FV-QR*

About pic posting, scroll up to the top of the page, click on Help. There are several topics in the help forum that explain where to host (upload) your pics, then how to link them into your posts.


----------



## FrankenCabby (Dec 7, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (tolusina)*

Did that work? It looks like it did.











































_Modified by FrankenCabby at 4:34 PM 12-23-2008_


----------



## FrankenCabby (Dec 7, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (tolusina)*

I don't seem to be able to list more than 4 pics in 1 Post. Here's the rest of them.








Well, that's what I thought. I don't seem to be able to post but the 1st 4 pics from Photobucket. Am I doing something wrong?


_Modified by FrankenCabby at 4:36 PM 12-23-2008_


----------



## FrankenCabby (Dec 7, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (FrankenCabby)*

Trying again


----------



## citat3962 (Oct 15, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (FrankenCabby)*

Here are the pics my dad wanted to post.. now in a size you can see without a microscope



















































































_Modified by citat3962 at 11:13 AM 12-24-2008_


----------



## Samz09 (May 13, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (citat3962)*








http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## badpenny (Jan 13, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (citat3962)*


_Quote, originally posted by *citat3962* »_









That one, IIRC, is a diagnostic for the duty cycle/dwell meter. It won't plug up to anything. Coming from a Scirocco2 I assume, its located on the passengers side right at the firewall, or in the drip pan.


----------



## dubaholic92 (Jan 21, 2007)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (FrankenCabby)*

is there any difference between the sachs clutch kit offer at ngp, and hte one offered on germanautoparts?
ngp
http://www.ngpracing.com/store...d=328
g.a.p.
http://www.germanautoparts.com.../55/1

im referring to the standard 8v kits


----------



## scirocco75 (Aug 5, 2006)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (dubaholic92)*

Cool thread. I have done this job on 2 other dubs in the past, but just picked up an 86 Cabby a/t and plan to do it again! (driveway job like yours) Great job and thanks for a valuable resource.


----------



## lil_medic_vdub (Jul 30, 2009)

*Re: Swap manual transmission from automatic - I did it! (scirocco75)*

Anyone got a link for what parts you need for a 2000 mk4 golf 2.0 Auto - Manual ??? im going







with my silly auto.


----------



## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (citat3962)*


_Quote, originally posted by *citat3962* »_Here are the pics my dad wanted to post.. now in a size you can see without a microscope <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/grinsanta.gif" BORDER="0">









FORD BLUE ? ?


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (citat3962)*

I'm hoping you figured all this out by now, it has been about 9 months! But, for future reference for others that may run into these things. 
The red an blue wires in the picture below should be attached to the green plug. This then plugs into the warmup regulator, which is absent in this picture. The warmup regulator mounts to the plate the green wire is running across. There should also be two fuel lines attached to the warmup regulator that I don't see in that pic.








The two wire connector with the rubber boot in the picture below should plug into the black vacuum switch to it's left, just off the distributor. This is the load switch for the upshift light on the gauge cluster. The others I'm not so sure of. The brown with the exposed connector is a ground of some variety, just by the wire color. The insulated connector next to it may be the other wire to whatever the ground connects to.








The three wire connector in the picture below looks to be the fan motor harness.
























In the pic below, the green wire with the orange bodied connector is for the Oxygen sensor. Fish down in back there along the downpipe and you should find the female with a rubber boot on it. More thean likely a single black wire. The white two wire connector in this pic I'm not sure of, though. In the pic above I can see that the Aux Air Valve is plugged in, as is the cold start injector. Both the load relays for the A/C system also appear to be plugged in two pics above.








As was stated in a previous post, the connector in the pic below is the diagnostic plug. This is used to take a dwell reading and set the fuel mixture. The other wire in this pic looks like it may be the broken ground to the white load switch three pics above.


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (YJSAABMAN)*

Now to throw in a few things I've run into thus far with the swap in my '82 Rabbit Conv. Pedal cluster is Rabbit GTI, steering rack is unknown, but hooked right up. All issues so far are with the pedals. 
Firstly, it appears I lost the big metal clip that attaches the clutch/brake pedal cluster to the column!








Second is incompatibility by a long shot between the brake booster pushrod and the Rabbit GTI pedal. Some of this may be related to the early nature of my '82, as I've noticed many other inconsistencies between stuff on my '82 and stuff on a buddy's '84. There's a fixed pin on my '84 GTI pedal cluster, and my '82 Conv. booster pushrod is designed for a push-through type of pin where the booster pushrod stradles the pedal. Nothing I can't overcome, just an FYI. I'll be sure to have pics of my mods to make it all work when I get back to work on my Cabby next week. 
Thirdly (I haven't encountered this yet, but can check it out) is I was told the automatic throttle pedals have a much smaller hole for the throttle cable and don't accept the manual trans throttle cable. I can check this out next week, as well, when i get back to work on my Cabby. I've changed unduction systems and won't be using a o.e. style throttle cable, now, but I still have one and will check it out.


----------



## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (YJSAABMAN)*


_Quote, originally posted by *YJSAABMAN* »_Now to throw in a few things I've run into thus far with the swap in my '82 Rabbit Conv. Pedal cluster is Rabbit GTI, steering rack is unknown, but hooked right up. All issues so far are with the pedals. 
Firstly, it appears I lost the big metal clip that attaches the clutch/brake pedal cluster to the column!








*Mines not fastened. Not a huge deal. * 
Second is incompatibility by a long shot between the brake booster pushrod and the Rabbit GTI pedal. 
*Yeah mine's off a bit too. If I adjust to the Bentley's specs the brakes are on all the time. So I adjusted it to where it works and all is good. Your earlier model may be even more outta whack.* 
Thirdly (I haven't encountered this yet, but can check it out) is I was told the automatic throttle pedals have a much smaller hole for the throttle cable and don't accept the manual trans throttle cable. 

*I've never seen this mentioned but you're right! The stupid rubber washer will NOT work with the automatic accelerator pedal. I used a regular rubber grommet from the hardware store. Works fine. *


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (Moljinar)*

Not issues with the brake light switch, havent' even gotten there, yet. The end of the pushrod is not a direct fit to the pedal, not even close. I'll have to get some pics and post 'em up. Just to add to the great info already in this post.


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## jfg69 (Mar 19, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (YJSAABMAN)*

What ever happened to this? Is it up and running?


----------



## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (jfg69)*

The original swap? Yes for several years now. Gone through 3 engines with it and no issues.


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## hartford dubber (Sep 7, 2009)

oran i just got this setup swapped into my cabby.
and ive got a few more things to do on it,
but i was wondering where do i run the red/ black wires to that went to the back up light, neutral safety switch in the center console, thats got me stumped


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: (hartford dubber)*

The neutral safety switch was merely bypassed, i.e. hook the two wires together.
The wires for the backup light need to be run into the engine bay where they can be attached to the backup switch on the tranny. The type of switch you have may differ depending on what tranny you put in. Go to http://vwbroke.com for more info about backup switches.


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## hartford dubber (Sep 7, 2009)

so all i have to do is splice the two red/black wires together?
and the tranny is an 020


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## sehaare (Aug 4, 2003)

*Re: (hartford dubber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hartford dubber* »_so all i have to do is splice the two red/black wires together?
and the tranny is an 020

Oran is probably off getting that last present that he forgot so I'll take this one. 
The Neutral safety switch is just a switch that closes when the Auto Tranny is in Neutral or park to allow starting the engine (Oran - are there any other functions for this in VW's that I don't know about?) So since you want to be able to start the manual tranny car with the gear shift in any position all you do is connect the two wires that went to the switch together (effectively closing the switch).
The 020 trannies used in these cars had two different back up switches a nice easy two connector type for which you just connect your back up light wires right up and a multi-pin switch which had other connections to indicate what gear the car was in. Go to the Website that Oran posted and Broke explains it all.
Steve


_Modified by sehaare at 4:42 PM 12-24-2009_


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## native-texan_in_tn (Apr 15, 2006)

*Re: (sehaare)*

Ditto on both counts... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Regarding the backup switches, the two-connector (screw-in, I believe) switch was for those lacking the upshift indicator in the instrument cluster. The other version has multiple pins and is an L-shaped, bolt-on switch intended for upshift indication (this also works fine if one wants only the reverse light function)... Here's Broke's page for wiring the multi-pin switches: http://www.brokevw.com/reverseswitch.html.


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## hartford dubber (Sep 7, 2009)

okay, the starter wires are connected now,
and do i just extend the two back up light switches out through the fire wall to the plug in the tranny?


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

*Re: (hartford dubber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hartford dubber* »_okay, the starter wires are connected now,
and do i just extend the two back up light switches out through the fire wall to the plug in the tranny?

Yup, just run 'em out through the firewall to the switch on the trans. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Mine are run out, but not hooked up, yet.


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: (YJSAABMAN)*

I don't have my backups wired yet. I just yell out the window "get heck outta my way!"


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## hartford dubber (Sep 7, 2009)

i probably wont worry about wiring them in yet, main concern is getting it back outta the garage


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

*Re: (hartford dubber)*

Required for safety inspection here in PA, so it's on my list. Anything to keep from being hassled for any reason. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## vdubballa2008 (Feb 2, 2008)

*Re: (YJSAABMAN)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## tumyeto (Sep 13, 2006)

This write up was great ! I have never attempted something of this scale on my own and this write up helped a ton (still make sure you have a bentley incase you get lost) 
I just about have this swap completed myself. (just wiring brake lights and speedo cable to go)

Just had a few things to add that i thought my help from my conversion. 

1) when removing the auto starter there is a very hard to find bolt on the solenoid side of the starter (i lost about 30 mins trying to find it (and almost smashed the starter off instead) its there you can't see it but its there. 

2) For everyone who has power steering and plans to keep it. I ended up using a cabby power steering rack and the high pressure line fitting that bolts to the pump has a 90 degree fiitting on it unlike the original rabbit rack that had a straight fitting swap the hose out before you install the rack or you will have to bend it! 

3) more power steering stuff, shift linkage is a tad bit different on power steering racks. I had saved my linkage from my last rabbit and was using it for this swap. on of the brackets is power steering specific to clear the hard lines on the rack. I had to get one from the wreckers because the manual steering rack one didnt fit. 

4) changing pedal clusters sucks!


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## andy millman (May 26, 2007)

I will second that as well, great write up that also gave me the confidence to do this. 

As a thank you, I will point out some things I learned along the way as well 

1) if you are switching from p/s to manual (non a/c car if it matters?), you may need to change the pulley on the water pump from flat to dished - mine used the p/s pump as its tightening point along the outer track of the crank shaft (2 pulleys) - on the manuals it tracks on the same pulley as the alternator and inner pulley on crank shaft. This may also result in clearance issues with the lower timing belt cover - mine now rubs, but I figure it will soon wear a groove where it needs to :laugh: 

2) This seems a bit stupid, but no one mentions the intermediate plate that goes between the transmission and the motor - its a thin piece of tin - actually 3 pieces - a large top piece, a lower piece, and a small piece that goes in by the drive shaft. I had pulled the motor to do this - thank god, and had to pull apart the motor and tranny after it didn't look right with these big gaps looking into the tranny. the top piece bolts on the to rear main seal flange gasket, and must be installed first, the lower and side pieces go on after the tranny is mated to the motor. 

3) reverse lights - on my car, as with the car used in the photos above, the reverse wires are already in the engine bay - you just need to hook them up to the reverse plug on the tranny. In the photo's above, the last one shows the master cylinder - below it is a "black wire with blue stripe, and a solid black wire - both going into a 2 pronged connector (where have I seen wires this color before?) bridge them and watch your reverse lights come on - Eureeeka 

4) brake switch - If like me, you swap in a pedal cluster from an older like minded car (mine was an 82 into an 89 cabby) you will need to dick with this to get it to work - the 82 used wires right on the m/c, while the 89 uses a switch at the pedal. I wanted to keep my 89 m/c and continue to use a switch on the pedal. I went to the wreckers and found a switch with the longest actuator rod I could - about 2 inches or so was it - (from a domestic truck/full size van...). Mine had a threaded plastic part around the base of the rod - if you remove this part, you pick an extra 3/4" or so on the actuator rod length. It is now just about long enough to poke through the little hole on the pedal cluster and reach the brake pedal arm. I used a fridge magnet on the edge of the pedal arm to make up the difference, and a zip tie to anchor the switch to pedal cluster - voila 

hope that helps some one 

again, awesome write up and thanks


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

andy millman said:


> again, awesome write up and thanks


 You're welcome! :laugh:


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## joincamp (Mar 29, 2010)

*drive plate*

Is there any chance you still have the drive plate from this swap? I have a badly worn drive plate on my 93 cabby and I'm not really looking to do a swap now. I just want to clear up the grindy starts and I can see the damaged teeth on it.


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## dubaholic92 (Jan 21, 2007)

hey finally doing this on my car. for the back up wire pig tail do i need the entire pig tail or can it be cut off close to the female end?


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

Get as much as you can to connect to.


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## dubaholic92 (Jan 21, 2007)

ok. could you either refer me to where you connected this in the write up or could you post how you did it? (referring to hooking up the reverse pigtail to the auto wiring)


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## Aaron16V1.8l (Aug 12, 2007)

Hi everyone - I have finally amassed all of the needed parts, and I am ready to do this. I'll probably post some pictures in this thread as I progress. However, I have one simple question - will the automatic axles work with the manual transmission, i.e., are they the same length? I don't have access to ETKA, and some websites differentiate between manual and automatic axles, and some don't. I just want to go ahead and order a new set if I need to before I start ripping it all aprt this weekend. 

Thanks - Aaron


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## rabbitinfife (Dec 23, 2007)

*neutral safety switch*

what did you do about the neutral safety switch wiring once you removed the shifter? Did you remove it completely to the fuse box


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

Simply extend the auto reverse wiring from the shifter console thru the firewall where the auto transmission cable went thru. Then hook up the backup switch to the wires. Very simple. Don't over think it.


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

Park/Neutral switch, Oran, not reverse. I just connected the wires together. :thumbup:


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

Whoops! Need new glasses, damn bifocals! Hey! You kids! Get off my lawn!


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

Moljinar said:


> Whoops! Need new glasses, damn bifocals! Hey! You kids! Get off my lawn!


 :laugh:


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## TheCabDriver (Apr 15, 2011)

*Swapped but not done...*

Hello all,

This my first post here, but anyways,

I am working on a swap from Auto to Manual for two reasons, the Auto was broke, and two, I hate Auto's anyway, they steal your HP and gas, which at this time is very expensive. Plus I prefer to be in control. Plus, the engine in the '87 has some issues and I wound up with the '88 for 300 bucks!!! That's with a new paint job. 

However, I am still having some issues...

One, the clutch cable seems to have problems no matter how I adjust it.
Two... no wait, at this moment I don't remember anymore 

Anyhow, so far it is going well.

Also, the post and PDF from Molijor (sp? sorry dude) are great! Just by reading that, you have solved a couple of issues 

Will be posting pics or some custom stuff I did to it too.

Thanx,
Erik


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## dubaholic92 (Jan 21, 2007)

could someone post pictures of number 23 from the procedure? the auto starter bypass wiring? specifically could someone post a picture of the two wires that need to be connected?

Id appreciate it, hoping to start my car up tonight!

-dave:beer::thumbup:


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## dubaholic92 (Jan 21, 2007)

sehaare said:


> _Quote, originally posted by *hartford dubber* »_so all i have to do is splice the two red/black wires together?
> and the tranny is an 020
> 
> Oran is probably off getting that last present that he forgot so I'll take this one.
> ...




post pics of these two wires please? the neutral safety switch ones ^^^


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

See Molinars thread:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2593146-Starter-relay-for-heatsoak-problems


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## dubaholic92 (Jan 21, 2007)

that thread deals with heatsoak issues for an automatic starter. i have done the 5 spd swap and need to bypass the neutral safety. i understand you touch 2 wires together. i am requesting a picture of these two wire located under the center counsel where the auto shifter used to be.


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## lil_squeeker (Nov 17, 2003)

*reverse wiring*

just wanted to note that on my 92, there was already a connector in the engine harness for the reverse switch. it was just tied back into the harness under the brake booster. kinda found it by mistake. not sure if all years are like that.


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

lil_squeeker said:


> just wanted to note that on my 92, there was already a connector in the engine harness for the reverse switch. it was just tied back into the harness under the brake booster. kinda found it by mistake. not sure if all years are like that.


 Hmm...Now you have me thinking. There's always been a mystery plug dangling by the master cylinder on my '82.


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## lil_squeeker (Nov 17, 2003)

YJSAABMAN said:


> Hmm...Now you have me thinking. There's always been a mystery plug dangling by the master cylinder on my '82.


 mine looked like this (not my pic), and the wire colors match the wires that go to the auto switch by the shifter.


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## Blastherabbit (Mar 28, 2013)

*thank you*

Im gonna do the same to my cabby. thanks for post it


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## keylakyla (Apr 25, 2013)

*i did it*

i did my 2000 jetta vr6 with a 6 speed tranny my friends from dub creations they did an awesome job and cheap


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## FernanadoL (May 2, 2013)

*help with my jetta gls 2002*

OK so im really new to this. I work on a shop where we do basically everything. And we bought a this jetta back in November which turns out to be mine now anyways. our plan was to convert it to a manual and so far we are almost there. I dont know much about what its being done but ill post what i know. 
The body of the car was for a automatic engine. we got a hold of a manual jetta (same year) this car was rear ended badly so it was not used anymore. so what we did was took the engine 1.8t and everything else for it including the harness. And put it into this jetta that im talking about. 

So far the harness and engine are on it but there is two problems that why im here. 
1.When the battery is connected power is still running trough the car meaning i can turn on the sound system with out the key even being in the ignition. How do i fix this? 
2.the harness is for a automatic so i guess there needs to be i sensor of some type by the clutch so the car can start. and this harness has it but for the automatic.. So the wiring is there. How can a deal with this? Can i bypass it some how? 
Again i have very low experience with cars so sorry i cant by specific


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

FernanadoL said:


> OK so im really new to this. I work on a shop where we do basically everything. And we bought a this jetta back in November which turns out to be mine now anyways. our plan was to convert it to a manual and so far we are almost there. I dont know much about what its being done but ill post what i know.
> The body of the car was for a automatic engine. we got a hold of a manual jetta (same year) this car was rear ended badly so it was not used anymore. so what we did was took the engine 1.8t and everything else for it including the harness. And put it into this jetta that im talking about.
> 
> So far the harness and engine are on it but there is two problems that why im here.
> ...


 You are well out of the range of anything done in this thread, my friend. This thread covers the basic, older cars without the computer controlled and integrated transmissions. I know it can be done, but I don't know what it involves. You should try the MK4 forum.


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## nabeelr (Jun 8, 2013)

*Auto to manual conversion differences.*

I'm wondering.

What's the difference between a auto cabby that is converted to manual, and a stock manual one?


The reason I ask this is because I bought a cabby, and I strongly suspect it used to be an Auto and was converted at some point.


Is there anyway to know for sure?


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## VWdude123 (Jan 17, 2014)

*money??*

how much did it all cost in the end?


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

nabeelr said:


> I'm wondering.
> 
> What's the difference between a auto cabby that is converted to manual, and a stock manual one?
> 
> ...


If you can find the original build info that will tell you, but I don't know that VW has retained that info. 

VWdude123: As for the cost, it all depends on where you find your parts, etc. I paid $300 for my transmission because it had been gone through and freshened up along with having a bolt kit installed. Going with new parts, like clutch, clutch cable, shifter rebuild kit, whether you use a short shift kit, etc can all add to the cost. Slapping a bunch of used parts in you can probably do the whole swap for under $500, or maybe even cheaper with a donor car.


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

YJSAABMAN said:


> If you can find the original build info that will tell you, but I don't know that VW has retained that info.
> 
> VWdude123: As for the cost, it all depends on where you find your parts, etc. I paid $300 for my transmission because it had been gone through and freshened up along with having a bolt kit installed. Going with new parts, like clutch, clutch cable, shifter rebuild kit, whether you use a short shift kit, etc can all add to the cost. Slapping a bunch of used parts in you can probably do the whole swap for under $500, or maybe even cheaper with a donor car.



Find the Build sticker usually on the rear frame tie in the trunk, although I have seen them in the wheel well.
If the m codes have a 249 then it was an automatic.

Now with that said, if the conversion was done correctly, there isn't a really good way of seeing it. But there are subtle differences, as in 
91-93 Autos have a pair of extra relays that are on the knee bar drivers side, that are across from the fuse box.



And the Venturi pump on the Fuel injection on a 93 is there too. 
Gray pipe off the Brake line check valve.




Take a picture of your engine and post it... If it was a good swap, we won't see the venture pump.

There are also wires that may be under the center console, as well as a cable splice for the reverse lights.
As the automatic lights are under the console.


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## kamzcab86 (Feb 14, 2002)

briano1234 said:


> Find the Build sticker usually on the rear frame tie in the trunk, although I have seen them in the wheel well.
> If the m codes have a 249 then it was an automatic.


The build sticker also lists the exact transmission installed at the factory:










^Those two had AUG's installed, which means 5-speed manuals.

If the lower half of the sticker is missing or illegible, post up the Type code (in the above left sticker it's 155 564); I can look your car's original trans info up.


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## enzo275 (May 23, 2014)

I may have found a prospective donor vehicle.
My car's an '82 and the donor is an '80. Do I need to worry about mismatch u-joints?


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## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

enzo275 said:


> I may have found a prospective donor vehicle.
> My car's an '82 and the donor is an '80. Do I need to worry about mismatch u-joints?


Nope, same size axles. 90 mm.


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## Blade3562 (Aug 17, 2012)

Bringing this back from the depths, I picked up an '85 that I'm 99% sure was an auto(haven't checked the sticker) but based on wiring and the fact the reverse lights don't have wires connecting to anything.

My question is, has anyone gone the reverse direction, swapping to an auto? I was recently in a car accident and driving a 3 pedal car is causing pain to my knee. Especially in stop go traffic. So I figured I would ask how daunting the task is to complete. My '88 is an auto and is a blast to drive, but it's too clean to let the Ohio winters assault it.

Looks like I need:
Trans
Trans mount
Auto shifter cable
Auto shifter mount
Auto shifter selector
Torque converter
Starter
Starter heat shield
Neutral safety switch(possibly not)
Pedal cluster


Also to piggyback how do you identify manual(non power) steering racks. I've depowered both cars, but don't know what racks I need to avoid the u joint issue. The turn ratio is a little off being depowered at low speeds and I just want to correct that! NAPA still sells complete units I just don't have a clue which I need 1988 with an 010 and 1985 currently with an 020


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## Butcher (Jan 31, 2001)

You probably all ready know this, but the simplest [and probably cheaper too] to convert any transmission from manual to auto [or visa versa] is to buy one that has what you are looking for and sell what you got. You may make a couple bucks too.

If you think your knee with be the only thing that's hurting now, wait till you get done with doing a conversion. Certainly it will be a pain in the a$$.

FYI, automatic equipped Cabriolets throttle pedals are more difficult to press than manuals.


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

Blade3562 said:


> Bringing this back from the depths, I picked up an '85 that I'm 99% sure was an auto(haven't checked the sticker) but based on wiring and the fact the reverse lights don't have wires connecting to anything.
> 
> My question is, has anyone gone the reverse direction, swapping to an auto? I was recently in a car accident and driving a 3 pedal car is causing pain to my knee. Especially in stop go traffic. So I figured I would ask how daunting the task is to complete. My '88 is an auto and is a blast to drive, but it's too clean to let the Ohio winters assault it.
> 
> ...


I have a manual (nonpower) rack for an auto I took out when I did my 5 speed swap.


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

YJSAABMAN said:


> I have a manual (nonpower) rack for an auto I took out when I did my 5 speed swap.


Be really nice if some one would make a Template for the Shifter bracket for folks to make and weld up to their auto racks.


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## tolusina (Oct 19, 2004)

Blade3562 said:


> .......Also to piggyback how do you identify manual(non power) steering racks. I've depowered both cars, but don't know what racks I need to avoid the u joint issue. The turn ratio is a little off being depowered at low speeds and I just want to correct that!.....


Are you saying you plan to remove a no longer powered power rack and replace it with a manual rack?


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

briano1234 said:


> Be really nice if some one would make a Template for the Shifter bracket for folks to make and weld up to their auto racks.


Welding on a rack is a bit sketchy, IMO. If it was disassembled I would be more comfortable with it. Just worried about the seals and blowing through the housing with too much heat.


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## tinygiant (Mar 17, 2012)

I will be starting to embark on this soon with my 85 cabby. 

I have a 91 cabriolet donor car with a 5spd and all the goodies. 

Without looking yet. Is it possible to just add the clutch pedal to the 85 pedal cluster if all parts are coming from cabriolet? I wasnt sure if its some sort of modular setup or if its a completely different cluster. 

I'm looking forward to doing this. I pulled an auto tranny out of my first parts car without issue. So pulling the manual out and my daily auto should be fine. The only part that has me nervous is doing all the clutch work. 


I plan to get:
a complete clutch and flywheel kit
scch spherical shifter base
4crawler shift kit with all delrin bushings
I want a nice tight shifting experience like I had on my first cabriolet


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

pedal assemblies are different.


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## tinygiant (Mar 17, 2012)

briano1234 said:


> pedal assemblies are different.


Wishful thinking


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## tinygiant (Mar 17, 2012)

I just ordered the rest of the parts I need for this swap to refresh the manual rack I pulled from my donor car. 

Going to swap the auto to a FN 5spd. 
swap PS to manual steering.

I will need do do something to align my alternator to the water and crank pulley. I am hoping that one of the alternators that I pulled from previous part outs will have the pulley I need to align the belts.


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## tinygiant (Mar 17, 2012)

So i have most everything back together i tried to take a bunch of pictures and also tried to keep note of all wrench and socket sizes. When i get the time. I may put together an updated illustrated version of this tutorial as this was super helpful but sizes will help save more time


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

tinygiant said:


> So i have most everything back together i tried to take a bunch of pictures and also tried to keep note of all wrench and socket sizes. When i get the time. I may put together an updated illustrated version of this tutorial as this was super helpful but sizes will help save more time


So you got the trans in? Great!

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk


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## tinygiant (Mar 17, 2012)

I did 
The second attempt was less than 5min to get it to slide on. All about approach and making sure the engine is sitting evenly before attempting. Made a world of difference.
I should be able to drive it by end of next week. Waiting on a new alternator pulley and a bushing for the accelerator cable/pedal.

in the mean time i will pull all the PS stuff and set my toe our and tighten the inner tie rods and ends. I have to wire the starter, reverse lights and join those ignition power wires.

also have to have my mid-pipe modified since the o2 sensor was right where there shifter lockout needed to go.
Its getting there. 

ckw2 also emailed and said rhat i should have my bags in a couple weeks or less!


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## tinygiant (Mar 17, 2012)

Car wont start. Pump charge, turns over, fires then cuts right out.
Has to be something stupid. Any common culprits?

checked ignition coil plugs are still plugged in, i have my negative to frame, frame to tranny and actually extra neg to trans motor mount for good measure.

Heat soak relay has red wire to positive top nut along with positive from battery. Black wire from heat soak relay to terminal 50 ( right side)


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## tinygiant (Mar 17, 2012)

Also connected the two red wires that went to the auto shifter with a butt connecter


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

Does the pump run during cranking? Sounds like it may be popping off from the prime pressure, then not getting more fuel. The fact that it cranks at all means the P/N wiring is good. Maybe jostled something with the ignition switch while doing the pedals is my thought.

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## tinygiant (Mar 17, 2012)

Ill make sure the ignition switch is fully plugged in tonight


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## tinygiant (Mar 17, 2012)

Checked all my connections. There doesnt seem to be anything not pluged in.

car cranks and fires but sputters out. I tried swapping the ignition coil to see if thy was the issue. No change.
Fuel pumps are charging and i smell fuel. Seems that I am not getting spark? Other than when it sort of kicks. But its not always kicking

Negative on battery runs from batter to firewall, firewall to transmount and neg to trans also

put in the manual throttle cable seems to be tight as it should be.


the o2 sensor is unplugged right now. I dont think that would keep it from starting would it?


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## tinygiant (Mar 17, 2012)

Well. Not sure what did but it works now. Lol


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